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Qermany:
Berlin and its Environs. With 30 Maps and Plana. Sixth edition.
1923
Northern Germany y excluding the Ehineland. With 165 Maps and
Plans. Seventeenth edition. 1925
Southern Germany (Baden, Black Forest, Wurtemberp:, and Bayaria),
With 118 Maps and Plans. Thirteenth edition. 1929
The Rhine from the Dutch to the Alsatian Frontier. With 102 Mapg
and Plans. Eighteenth edition. 1926
Great Britain. England ^ Wales j and Scotland. With 94 Maps
and Plans, and a Panorama. Eighth edition. 1927
London and its Environs, With 45 Maps and Plans. Eighteenth edi-
tion. 1923
THE
UNITED STATES
WITH
EXCURSIONS TO MEXICO, CUBA, PORTO RICO, AND ALASKA
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
BY
KARL BAEDEKER
WITH 33 MAPS AND 4& ILANS
FOURTH REVISED EDITION
LEIPZIG : KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER
SS^;?? ^ - -_ . -
LONDON: aEOR(TE ALLEN & UNWIN LTD., 40 MUSEUM ST.. W.C. 1
.YEW YORK: CHAS. SCRIBXER'S SONS, FIFTH AVE. AT 48TH ST.
1909
"^-f---^}-
'Go, little book, God send thee good passage,
And specially let tWs be thy prayere
Unto them all that thee will read or hear,
Where thou art wrong, after their help to call
^ Thee to correct in any part or all/
'^W-^
i^^Mt'
DEC 3 <02§
N
3t
.
Greeoe, the Greek IslandSf an\i an Excursion to Crete. With 16 Maps,
30 Plans, and a Panorama of Athens. Fourth edition. 1909
"Holland, see Belgium and Holland.
India, in German only :
Indien, Ceylon, Yorderindien, B&ma, die malayische Halbinsel, Siam,
Java. Mit 22 Karten, 33 Pknen und 8 Grundrissen. 1914
Italy: /. Northern Italy, including Leghorn, Florence, Ravenna, and
Routes through France, Switzerland, and Austria. With 36 Maps,
45 Plans, and a Panorama. Fourteenth edition. 1913
//. Central Italy and Rome. With 28 Maps, 62 Plans and Diagrams, and
the Arms of the Popes since 1417. Sixteenth edition. 1929. (In pre-
paration.)
///. Southern Italy and Sicily, including Malta, Sardinia, Tunis, and
Corfu. With 64 Maps and Plans. Sixteenth edition. 1912
Italy from the Alps to Naples. With 93 Maps and Plans. Third edi-
tion. 1928
The Mediterranean. Seaports and Sea Routes, including Madeira,
the Canary Islands, the Coast of Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia.
With 38 Maps and 49 Plans. 1911
Norway, Sweden, and Denmark, with Excursions to Iceland and
Spitzbergen. With 104 Maps and Plans. Tenth edition. 1912 . . .
Palestine and Syria, including the principal routes through Meso-
potamia and Babylonia. With 21 Maps, 56 Plans, and a Panorama
of Jerusalem. Fifth edition. 1912
Portugal, see Spain and Portugal.
Hiviera, see Southern France.
Russia, with Teheran, Port Arthur, and Peking. With 40 Maps and
78 Plans. 1914
Manual of the Russian Language, with Vocabulary and List of
Phrases. 1914
Scotland, see Ghreat Britain.
Spain and Portugal, with Excursions to Tangier and the Balearic
Islands. With 20 Maps and 59 Plans. Fourth edition. 1913
Sweden, see Norway, Sweden, and Denmark.
Switzerland, with Chamonix and the Italian Lakes. With 111 Maps
and Plans, and 15 Panoramas. Twenty-seventh edition. 1928 .
Tyrol and the Dolomites, including the Bavarian Alps, Yorarl
berg, Salzburg, and Western Carinthia. With 65 Maps, 19 Plans,
and 11 Panoramas. Thirteenth edition. 1927
The United States, with Excursions to Mexico, CubOy Porto Rico
and Alaska. With 33 Maps and 48 Plans. Fourth edition. 1909 . .
Wales, see Great Britain.
1?^y^ Jy. (S)
\ :': y
THE UNITED STATES
PREFACE.
L he Handbook to the United States, undertaken in response
to repeated requests from British and American tourists, is
intended to help the traveller in planning his tour and dispos-
ing of his time to the best advantage and thus to enable him
the more thoroughly to enjoy and appreciate the objects of
interest he meets with. The writer is Dr. J. F. 3Iinrhead,
who has had charge of the English editions of Baedeker's
Handbooks for quarter of a century, and has personally vis-
ited the greater part of the districts described.
The vast extent and rapidly changing conditions of the
United States make the production of a satisfactory guide-
book a peculiarly difficult task ; but for its improvement the
Editor confidently and gratefully looks forward to a contin-
uance of those valuable corrections and suggestions with
which travellers have long been in the habit of favouring him.
In view of the growing favour bestowed on the Handbook
by native-born travellers, an attempt has been made to ex-
pand those sections which appeal rather to the American
than to the foreign tourist, and to lay greater stress upon
points interesting from their association with American
history or literature.
In the preparation of the Handbook the Editor has received
material aid from Professor Clifford H. 3foore of Harvard (who
visited the Yellowstone Park, the Grand Canyon of the Colo-
rado, and California in the interests of the present edition) and
from so many other friends in all parts of the United States,
as to preclude an enumeration of their names. In particular
he wishes to express his obligations to the superior officials of
the leading Railway Companies, who have been, almost with-
out exception, uniformly courteous and helpful ; to many offi-
cials of the Federal and State Governments ; to the keepers
of the most important libraries, museums, and galleries of
art; to the officials of the Appalachian Mountain Club; and
to the professors of numerous universities and colleges.
It is hoped that the various monographs of the Intro-
duction, though sometimes going beyond the recognized
functions of a guidebook, will be found of material value to
the tourist. Each has been written by an undoubted authority
on the subject of which it treats; and their general aim is to
enable the traveller who studies them to give an intelligent
appreciation to the political, social, industrial, and physical
aspects of a great country that is much less accurately known
by the average European than its importance warrants.
iv PREFACE.
The contents of the Handbook are divided into Nine
Sections (Introductory Matter, Approaches; I. The Middle
States; II. New England; III. The Middle West; IV. The Far
West, California; V. Southern States; VI. Mexico; VII. Cuba,
Porto Rico ; VIII. Alaska), each of which may be separately
removed from the volume by cutting the gauze backing visible
on opening the book at the requisite pages. Linen covers for
these sections may be obtained through any bookseller.
On the Maps and Plans the Editor has bestowed especial
care; and it is believed that in this respect the Handbook is
more completely equipped than any other publication of the
kind relating to the United States. Such merit as they possess
is largely due to the kind and efficient cooperation of Mr.
Henry Gannett, Chief Topographer of the United States Greo-
logical Survey. Eight new maps and thirteen new plans have
been added to the present edition.
The Populations are those of the national census of 1900,
except in those cases where a State census has been taken
at a more recent date.
Hotels. The Editor has endeavoured to enumerate not
only the first-class hotels, but also the more deserving of the
cheaper houses. The comfort of an American hotel is, however,
much more likely to be in the direct ratio of its charges than
is the case in Europe (comp. p. xxii). Although changes fre-
quently take place, and prices generally have an upward tend-
ency, the average charges stated in the Handbook will enable
the traveller to form a fair estimate of his expenditure. The
value of the asterisks, which are used as marks of commenda-
tion, is relative only, signifying that the houses are good of
their kind.
To hotel-proprietors, tradesmen, and others the Editor
begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing and courtesy
towards travellers is the sole passport to his commendation,
and that advertisements of every kind are strictly excluded
from his Handbooks. Hotel-keepers are also warned against
persons representing themselves as agents for Baedeker's
Handbooks.
CONTENTS.
Page
I. Money. Expenses. Passports. Custom House. Time xiii
n. Voyage from Europe to the United States xv
in. Railways. Steamers. Coaches. Tramways xv
IV. Plan of Tour xix
V. Hotels and Restaurants xxil
VI. Post and Telegraph Offices xxv
VII. Glossary xxvi
Vni. General ffints xxvil
IX. A Short History of American Politics, by John Bach
McMaster xxlx
X. Constitution' and Government of the United States,
by James Bryce xliv
XI. Aborigines and Aboriginal Remains, by 0. T. Mason
and W. Hough Ix
XII. Physiography of North America, by N. S. Shaler and
T. A. Jaggar Jr Ixv
XIII. Climate and Climatic Resorts of the United States,
by E. C. Wendt Ixxiv
XIV. The Fine Arts in America Ixxx
a. Painting and Sculpture, by William A. Coffin, . Ixxx
b. Architecture, by Montgomery Schuyler Ixxxvi
XV, Sports and Games, revised by Ralph Cracknell. . . xci
XVI. Educational, Charitable, Penal, and Industrial In-
stitutions xcvlii
XVII. Bibliography ci
Route
1. From Europe to New York 1
a. From Liverpool to New York 1
b. From Southampton to New York via Cherbourg 3
c. From Hamburg to New York 3
d. From Bremen to New York 4
e. From Havre to New York 5
f. From Antwerp to New York 5
g. From Rotterdam to New York 5
h. From London to New York 5
i. From Glasgow to New York 6
k. From Copenhagen, Christiania, and Christiansand to New York 6
1. From Genoa and Naples to New York 6
I. The Middle States.
2. New York 10
3. Brooklyn and Long Island 74
4. From Now York to Albany 81
5. Albany 91
6. From Albany to Binghamton 96
7. The Catskill Mountains 97
▼ill CONTENTS.
Route Page
8. The Adirondack Mountains 104
9. Saratoga 119
10. Lake George and Lake Champlain 122
11. From New York to Montreal via Valley of the Hudson . . 126
12. From New York to Buffalo and Niagara Falls 129
13. From Auburn to Ithaca 145
14. Niagara Falls 146
15. The St. Lawrence River and the Thousand Islands. . . . 153
16. From New York to Philadelphia 156
17. Philadelphia 158
18. Summer and Winter Resorts of New Jersey 176
19. From Philadelphia to Buffalo 182
20. From Philadelphia to Reading and WiUiamsport 186
21. From Philadelphia to Erie 187
22. From Philadelphia to Harrisburg and Pittsburg 188
23. Gettysburg 192
24. Pittsburg 197
25. From Philadelphia to Baltimore 201
26. Baltimore 203
27. From Baltimore to Washington 210
28. Washington 211
29. From New York to Chicago 229
II. New England.
30. From New York to Boston 234
31. Boston 253
32. From Boston to Plymouth 275
33. From Boston to Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket .... 277
34. From Boston to Provincetown. Cape Cod 278
35. From Boston to Portland 280
36. From Portland to Mount Desert 289
37. Mount Desert 293
38. From Portland to the Rangeley Lakes . 297
39. From Portland to Moosehead Lake 300
40. From Boston to Eastport and St. John by Sea (Campobello ;
Grand Manan) 301
41. From Portland to Montreal and Quebec 303
42. From Boston to Montreal 306
43. The White Mountains 320
44. From Boston to Albany 334
45. From New York to Pittsfleld (Berkshire Hills) 336
46. The Berkshire Hills 337
47. From New York to Montreal via Connecticut Valley . . . 343
in. The Middle West.
48. From Pittsburg to Chicago 349
49. From Baltimore to Chicago 350
CONTENTS. U
Route Page
50. From Buffalo to Chicago . 353
51. Chicago 366
52. From Chicago to Milwaukee 380
53. From Chicago to St. Paul and Minneapolis 384
54. St. Paul and Minneapolis 388
55. From St. Paul to Duluth 393
56. From Duluth to Sault-Ste-Marie .395
57. From St. Paul to Winnipeg 398
58. From Chicago to St. Louis 399
59. From Chicago to Cincinnati 401
60. From New York to Cincinnati 403
61. Cincinnati 405
62. From New York to St. Louis 408
63. St. Louis 410
64. From St. Louis to Louisville 416
65. From Chicago to Council Bluffs and Omaha 417
66. From Omaha to Denver 422
67. From Chicago to Kansas City 423
68. From St. Louis to Kansas City and Denver 426
69. From St. Paul to New Orleans by the Mississippi River . 427
IV. The Far West. California.
70. From St. Paul to Everett and Seattle 434
71. From St. Paul to Tacoma, Seattle, and Portland .... 438
72. The Yellowstone National Park 447
73. From Council Bluffs and Omaha to San Francisco .... 459
74. From Council Bluffs and Omaha to Portland 467
75. From Kansas City to San Francisco 470
76. From Kansas City to Los Angeles 485
77. From Denver to Salt Lake City and Ogden 488
78. From Salt Lake City to Los Angeles 503
79. From San Francisco to Portland 504
80. San Francisco 509
81. From San Francisco to Santa Cruz 520
82. From San Francisco to Los Angeles 521
83. Los Angeles 531
84. From Los Angeles to Pasadena 536
85. From Los Angeles to San Diego and National City. Coro-
nado Beach 537
86. The Yosemite Valley 540
87. From San Francisco to El Paso 549
V. Sonthern States.
88. From Washington to Richmond 554
89. From Richmond to Norfolk and Old Point Comfort ... 560
90. From Washington to Louisville 665
X CONTENTS.
Route Page
91. From Washington to New Orleans 569
92. From Cincinnati to New Orleans 582
93. From Chicago and St. Lonis to New Orleans 588
94. From St. Louis to Texarkana 589
95. From El Paso to New Orleans 591
96. From Hagerstown to Bristol. The Shenandoah Valley . . 596
97. From Salisbury to Asheville and Morristown 598
98. From Richmond to Charleston 602
99. Charleston 603
100. From Charleston to Angnsta 606
101. From Richmond to Savannah 608
102. From Savannah to Atlanta 610
103. From New York to Florida 611
104. From Jacksonville to St. Angustine, Miami, and Key West 615
105. The St. John's River 623
108. The Ocklawaha River 625
107. From Jacksonville to Tampa 626
108. From Jacksonville to Tallahassee, Pensacola, and New
Orleans 629
109. New Orleans 631
110. From New Orleans to Dallas, Fort Worth, and El Paso . 637
VI. Mexico.
111. From Laredo to the City of Mexico 641
112. From Eagle Pass to the City of Mexico 644
113. From El Paso to the City of Mexico 645
114. The City of Mexico 650
115. From the City of Mexico to Vera Cruz 655
Vn. Cuba. Porto Rico.
Cnba.
116. Havana 662
117. From Havana to Santiago de Cuba 666
118. From Havana to Pinar del Rio and Guane 668
Porto Rico.
119. From San Juan Bautista to Ponce 669
Vm. Alaska.
120. From Seattle to Sitka 673
Index 687
MAPS AND PLANS. xi
Maps.
1. The Eastern United States (1 : 4,000,000), before the title-page.
2. The Fabthee Envibons of New York (1 : 560,000), p. 3.
3. The Nearer Environs of New York (1:210,000), p. 72.
L The Catskill Mountains (1 : 287,000), p. 97.
5. The Adirondack Mountains (1:550,000), p. 105.
6. Railway Map of the Middle and Southern States (1:2,500,000), p. 157.
7. The Environs op Getttsburg (1 : 1.222,000), p. 192.
8. The Battlefield op Gettysburg (1 : 63,000), p. 193.
9. Railway Map of the New England States (1:2,500,000), p. 232.
10. The Environs of Newport (1 : 60,000), p. 249.
11. The Environs of Boston (1:240,000), p. 274.
12. Mount Desert Island (1 : 174,900), p. 293.
13. The White Mountains (1:316.800), p. 320.
14. The Berkshire Hills (1 : 316,800), p. 337.
15. The Environs of St. Paul and Minneapolis (1:100,000), p. 391.
16. St. Mary's River (1:400,000), p. 397.
17. The Yellowstone National Park (1:530,000), p. 447.
18. Survey Map OF the Grand Canyon of the Colorado (1:3,000,000), p. 481.
19. The Grand Canyon of the Colorado (1 : 250,000), p. 481.
20. The Environs of Colorado Springs (1 : 316,800), p. 490.
21. The Nearer Environs of San Francisco (1 : 175,000), p. 516.
22. The Farther Environs of San Francisco (1 : 1,700,000), p. 519.
23. Southern California (1:750,000), p. 535.
24. The Yosemite Valley (1:128,000), p. 541.
25. Hampton Roads (1 : 175,000), p. 563.
26. Northern Florida (1:2,500,000), p. 611.
27. Southern Mexico (1 : 10,000,000), p. 639.
28. Valley of Mexico (1:2,000,000), p. 639.
29. The Environs of Mexico (1:200.000), p. 654.
30. Cuba and Porto Rico (1 : 10,000,(X)0), p. 661.
31. The Environs of Havana (1: 150,000), p. 662.
32. The Coast of British Columbia and Alaska (1 : 4,500,000), p. 673.
33. General Map of the United States (1 : 10,000,000), after the Index.
Flans.
1. Albany, p. 91. — 2. Baltimore, p. 203. — 3. Boston I (general plan).
p. 253. — 4. Boston II (centre), p. 258. — 5. Brooklyn, p. 75. — 6. Buffalo
_ _ 271. _ 8. ~ -----
^ P- S'^l- -
12. Chicago IEI (business quarter), p. 374. — 13. Cincinnati, p' 405
p. 136. — 7. Cambridge, p. 271. — 8. Charleston, p. 603. — 9. Chicago
(general plan), p. 367. — 10. Chicago I, p. 371. — 11. Chicago II, p. 377. —
14. Cleveland, p. 353. — 15. Concord, p. 307. — 16. Denver, p. 471. —
17. Detroit, p. 358. — 18. Havana, p. 662. — 19. Indianapolis, p. 401. —
20. Los Angeles, p. 532. — 21. Mexico, p. 650. — 22. Milwaukee, p. 381. —
23. Minneapolis, p. 391. — 24. New Haven, p. 236. — 25. New Orleans,
p. 631. — 26. Newport, p. 249. — 27. New York (general plan), p. 11. —
28. New York I (S. part), p. 33. — 29. New York n (centre), p. 42. —
30. Niagara Falls, p. 147. — 31. Philadelphia, p. 159. — 32. Pittsburg,
p. 197. — 33. Richmond, p. 555. — 34. St. Augustine, p. 615. — 35. St. Louis,
p. 411. — 36. St. Paul, p. 388. — 37. Salt Lake City, p. 499. — 38. San
Francisco, p. 509. — 39. Sadlt - Sth - Marie, p. 397. — 40. Savannah,
p. 609. — 41. Washington, p. 211.
Ground Plans.
1, 2. Metropolitan Museum of Art at New York, groundfloor p. 60
upper floor p. 61. — 3. Capitol at Washington, p. 214. — 4. National
Museum at Washington, p. 215. — 5. Yale University at New Haven,
p. 236. — 6. Harvard University at Cambridge, p. 271. — 7. University
OF Chicago, p. 377.
xii ABBREVIATIONS.
Abbreviations.
R. = Room; B. = Breakfast; D. = Dinner; L. = Luncheon; Rfmts. =
Refreehments. — N. = North, Northern, etc.; S. = South, etc. ; E. = East, etc.;
W. = West, etc. — M. = English (or American) Mile; ft, = Engl, foot;
yd. = yard ; min. = minute ; hr. = hour. — ca. = circa, about ; comp. =
compare. — Ho. = House; Hot. = Hotel; Ave. = Avenue ; St. = Street;
R.R. = railroad ; Ry. = Railway ; Mt. = Mountain. — U.S. = United States. —
PI. = plan.
The letter d with a date, after the name of a person, indicates the
year of his death. — The number of feet given after the name of a place
shows its height above the sea-level. — The number of miles placed before
the principal places on railway-routes indicates their distance from the
starting-point of the route.
Asterisks are used as marks of commendation.
INTRODUCTION.
I. Money. Expenses. Passports. Custom House. Time.
Money. The currency of the United States is arranged on a
decimal system, of which the dollar ($}, divided into 100 cents
(c), is the unit. The Gold coins are the pieces of $ 1 (no longer
minted), $ 21/2, $ 5, $ 10, and $ 20. The Silver coins are the dollar,
half-dollar, quarter dollar (= 1 3.) , and 'dime' (10 c). The 5 c.
piece or 'nickel' is made of Nickel (silver 5 c. pieces still occasion-
ally seen), and there are Bronze pieces of 1 c. (}/2d.)a.n6.2c. (Id.).
The 3 c. piece (nickel) is no longer coined. The U. S. Paper Cur-
rency consists of Gold Notes (of the denomination of $ 10, $ 20,
$ 50, $ 100, $ 500, $ 1000, $ 5000, and $ 10,000), United States Notes
('greenbacks'), U. S. Treasury Notes, and Silver Certificates. The
last three are issued for $ 1, $ 2, $ 5, $ 10, $ 20, $ 50, $ 100, $ 500,
and $ 1000. All are redeemable at par. The National Bank Bills
(from $ 5 to $ 1000) are also universally current. Throughout nearly
the whole of the country notes are much more common than coins
for all sums of $ 1 and upwards ; but on the Pacific Slope gold and
silver are in almost exclusive use. For practical purposes the
dollar may be reckoned as 4«. and $5 as il.; but the actual rate of
exchange for il. is generally between $4.80 and $4.90 (or $1
= about 4s. 2d.).
The European visitor to the United States will find it con-
venient to carry his money in the form of letters of credit, or cir-
cular notes, which are readily procurable at the principal banks.
Foreign money does not circulate in the United States, even the
Canadian coins of exactly the same form and value as American
coins being generally refused; but Bank of England notes are
usually taken at their full value at the hotels of all the larger
cities. — Post Office Orders (see p. xxv) are not convenient for
strangers, as evidence of identity is generally required before pay-
ment, though this may be waived by the remitter, but the travellers'
cheques issued by the American Express Company (see pp. xxv, 20)
are cashed at sight in the same way as Post Office Orders in Great
Britain and form a very satisfactory mode of paying one's way. The
company has offices in London (5 Haymarket), Paris (11 Rue Scribe),
Liverpool, Southampton, and other important towns of Europe.
Most of the other large Express Companies (pp. xxv, 20) also issue
Money Orders payable at sight (fee about one-half of one per cent,
with a minimum of 50 c.).
Expenses. The expenses of a visit to the United States depend,
of course, on the habits and tastes of the traveller, but are almost
inevitably from one -fourth to one -third higher than those of
European travel. The distances to be traversed are so great that
railway-fares are sure to be absolutely, even when not relatively,
xiv I. TIME.
higher (comp. p. xvii); and comfortable hotels of the second oi
third class are comparatively rare. Persons of moderate require-
ments, however, by frequenting hoarding-honses instead of hotels
and avoiding carriage-hire as much as possible, may travel comfort-
ably" (exclusive of long continuous journeys) for $ 5-71/2 (20-30s.) .
a day ; but it would be safer to reckon on a daily expenditure of
at least $ 10 (21.). An entire day (24 hrs.) spent on the train
(i.e. a journey of 500-800 M.) costs, with Pullman car accommo-
dation and meals, about $20-25 (4-5Z.). The cost of living varies
considerably in different parts of the country 5 and New York,
where most visitors land, is one of the most expensive cities in
America. Comp. pp. xxii, 13.
Passports, though not necessary in the United States, may be
useful in procuring delivery of registered and poste restante letters.
Custom House. The custom-house examination of the luggage
of travellers entering the United States is generally conducted
courteously but often with considerable minuteness. Nothing is
admitted free of duty except the personal effects of the traveller,
and unusually liberal supplies of unworn clothing are apt to be
regarded with considerable suspicion. Residents of the United
States may not introduce free clothing or other personal effects pur-
chased abroad of a greater total value than $ 100. They may not
bring in sealskin garments made abroad at all ; and if they take such
garments with them to other countries, they should 'register' them
before starting with the U.S. Customs Collector at the port of de-
parture. The traveller should be careful to 'declare' everything he
has of a dutiable nature, as otherwise it is liable to summary con-
fiscation (comp. p. xv). Not more than 50 cigars or 300 cigarettes
may be passed free.
In accordance with an Act of 1903 a head-tax of $ 2 may be levied on
every foreigner entering the United States, with the exception of citizens
of Canada, Newfoundland, Mexico, and Cuba. This tax is generally in-
cluded in the passage-money paid by travellers reaching the United States
by sea, but Europeans may have to pay it each time they cross the frontier
from Canada.
Time. For the convenience of railways and others a Standard
of Time for the United States was agreed upon in 1883, and a
system adopted by which the country was divided into four sections,
each of 15° of longitude (1 hr.). Eastern Time, or that of the 75th
Meridian, prevails from the Atlantic Coast to a line running through
Detroit, Buffalo, Pittsburg, and Charleston. Central Time (of Meri-
dian 90) , 1 hr. slower , extends thence to a line running from
Bismarck (N.D.) to the mouth of the Rio Grande. Mountain Time
(105° long.) extends to the W. borders of Idaho, Utah, and Arizona.
Pacific Time (120°) covers the rest of the country. Thus noon at
New York is 11 a.m. at Chicago, 10 a.m. at Denver, and 9 a.m. at
San Francisco. True local or mean solar time may be anywhere
from 1 min. to 30 min. ahead or behind the standard time.
m. RAILWAYS XV
U. Voyage from Europe to the United States.
The chief routes from Europe to the United States are indicated
in R. 1 (comp. also p. 11) ; and the steamers of any of the com-
panies there mentioned afford comfortahle accommodation and
speedy transit. The fares vary considerably according to season and
the character of the vessel 5 but the extremes for a saloon-passage
may be placed at $50 (lOL) and $500 (100^.), the latter sum secur-
ing a suite of deck-rooms on the largest , finest, and quickest boats
in the service. The average rate for a good stateroom in a good
steamer may be reckoned at $75-125 (15-25i.). The intermediate
or second cabin costs $ 30-65 (6-13Z.), the steerage $ 15-20 (3-4i.).
The slowest steamers, as a general rule, have the lowest fares ; and
for those who do not object to a prolongation of the voyage they
often offer as much comfort as the 'ocean greyhounds.'
The average duration of the passage across the Atlantic is 6-9 days.
Passengers should pack clothing and other necessaries for the voyage in
small flat boxes (not portmanteaus), such as can lie easily in the cabin,
as all bulky luggage is stowed away in the hold. Stateroom trunks should
not exceed 3 ft. in length, IV2-2 ft. in breadth, and 13 inches in height.
Trunks not wanted on board should be marked 'Hold' or 'Not Wanted',
the others 'Cabin' or 'Wanted'. The steamship companies generally provide
labels for this purpose. Dress for the voyage should be of a plain and
serviceable description, and it is advisable, even in midsummer, to be
provided with warm clothing. A deck-chair, which is a luxury that may
almost be called a necessary, may be purchased before starting (from 6«.
or 7s. upwards) but is now more often hired from the deck-steward (2-4s.).
If bought, it should be distinctly marked with the owner's name or initials,
and may be left in charge of the Steamship Co.'s agents until the return-
journey. Seats at table, retained throughout the voyage, are usually
assigned by the Saloon Steward immediately after starting; and those
who wish seats at a particular table or beside a particular person should
apply to him. The passenger should also interview the bath-steward to
fix an hour for his morning-tub. It ia usual to give a fee of IO5. (21/2 dollars)
to the table-steward and to the stateroom-steward, and small gratuities
are also expected by the boot-cleaner, the bath-steward, etc. The custo-
mary fees are, of course, much lower in the second cabin. — Landing at
New York, see pp. 2, 10.
During the voyage one of the ship's officers distributes blank forms,
on which the passengers 'declare' any dutiable articles they may have
in their trunks. These are returned to the ship's officer, but the pass-
engers retain the detachable coupon at the bottom of the form to preseiit
to the chief customs officer on the dock. The luggage is examined in
the covered hall adjoining the wharf, where it is arranged as far as pos-
sible in alphabetical order by the initials of the owners' names (comp.
p. 10). After the examination the traveller may hire a carriage to take
himself and his baggage to his destination , or he may send his trunks
by a transfer-agent or express man (see p. xviii) and go himself on foot
or by tramway. Telegraph messengers and representatives of hotels also
meet the steamers.
m. Sailways. Steamers. Coaches. Tramways.
Railways. The United States now contain about 286,000 M.
of railway, or more than one-half of the total mileage of the world.
The lines are all in private hands, and the capital invested in them
amounts to about $15,000,000,000 (3,000,000,000 g. Nearly
xvi III. RAILWAYS.
50 corporations report over 1000 M. of track each, while the Penn-
sylvania Railroad System alone works fully 11,000 M. The total
nmnher of employees is about 1,200,000. The railway mileage per
1 sq. M. of surface Yaries greatly in the different states. Illinois has
about 12,000 M. ofraUway, Ehode Island about 210 M. In 1907
the number of passengers carried was 815,774,188, and the average
distance travelled by each was about 32 M.
The equipments of American railways are, as is well known, very
dififerent from those of European railways , though the standard gauge
(4 ft. 8V2 in.) is the same. Instead of comparatively small coaches,
divided into compartments holding 6-8 people each, the American rail-
ways have long cars (like an enlarged tramway-car), holding 60-70 pers.,
entered by doors at each end, and having a longitudinal passage down
the middle, with the seats on each side of it. Each seat has room for
two passengers. Local and short-distance trains ^ especiaUy in the East,
generally have one class of carriage only, but all long-distance trains are
also furnished with drawing-room (parlor) cars by day and sleeping-cars
at night, which accommodate about 24-32 people in the same space as the
ordinary cars and are in every way much more comfortable. Second-class
and emigrant carriages are also found on some long-distance trains and in
parts of the South and West, but scarcely concern the tourist. Smoking
is not permitted except in the cars ('Smokers' specially provided for the
purpose and generally found at the forward end of the train. Smoking com-
partments are also usually found in the parlor-cars. The parlor and sleeping
cars are generally the property of special corporations, of which the Pull-
man Company is the chief; but on a few railways they belong to the rail-
way-company itself. The vexed question of whether the American or the
European railway-carriage is the more comfortable is hard to decide. It
may be said generally, however, that the small compartment system would
never have done for the long journeys of America, while the parlor-cars
certainly offer greater comfort in proportion to their expense than the
European first-class carriages do. A Limited Vestibuled Train^ such as that
described at p. 229, comes measurably near the ideal of comfortable railway
travelling, and reduces to a minimum the bodily discomfort and tedium of
long railway-journeys. In comparing the ordinary American car with the
second-class or the best third-class carriages of Europe, some travellers
may be inclined to give the preference fur short journeys to the latter.
The seats in the American cars offer very limited room for two persons,
and their backs are often too low to afford any support to the head; a
single crying infant or spoiled child annoys 60-70 persons instead of the
few in one compartment; the passenger has little control over his window,
as someone in the car is sure to object if he opens it; the window opens
upward instead of downward; the continual opening and shutting of the
doors, with the consequent draughts, are annoying; the incessant vis-
itation of the train-boy, with his books, candy, and other articles for sale,
renders a quiet nap almost impossible ; while, in the event of an accident,
there are only two exits for 60 people instead of six or eight. On the
other hand the liberty of moving about the car, or, in fact, from end
to end of the train, the toilette accommodation, and the amusement of
watching one's fellow-passengers greatly mitigate the tedium of a long
journey; while the publicity prevents any risk of the railway crimes
sometimes perpetrated in the separate compartments of the European
system. Rugs, as a rule, are not necessary, as the cars are apt to be over,
rather than under, heated. Comparatively little accommodation is provided
in the way of luggage-racks, so that travellers should reduce their hand-
baggage to the smallest possible dimensions. — In the sleeping-car the
passenger engages a Half-Section^ consisting of a so-called 'double berth',
which, however, is rarely used by more than one person. K desirous of
more air and space, he may engage a whole Section (at double the rate
of a half-section), but in many cases a passenger is not allowed to mono-
polize a whole section to the exclusion of those not otherwise able to find
m. RAILWAYS. xvii
accommodation. Parties of 2-4 may secure Drawing RoomSy or private com-
partments. A lower berth is generally considered preferable to an upper
berth, as it is easier to get into and commands the window 5 but, by what
seems a somewhat illiberal regulation of the sleeping-car companies, the
upper berth is always let down, whether occupied or not, unless the whole
section is paid for. So far nothing has been done towards reserving a
special part of the car for ladies, except in the shape of a small toilette
and dressing room. The Pullman agent at a terminal station may some-
times be unable to supply a lower berth, but the traveller may find it
possible to exchange an upper for a lower berth at one of the larger stations
en route. — The so-called Tourist Cars, now found on all the main trans-
continental lines, may be described as second-class Pullman Cars (see p. xvi),
at about half the Pullman rates , and may be recommended to those who
wish to economize. They are, however, apt to contain too many noisy
children; and the facilities afforded for light cooking are not appreciated
by those who do not make use of them. Passengers by these cars may
take their meals in the dining-cars (see below). — Dining Cars are often
attached to long-distance trains, and the meals and service upon them are
generally better than those of the railway-restaurants. The prices (usually
d, la carte) are comparatively high; and this is also true of refreshments
furnished from the buffets of sleeping or parlor cars. It should be noticed
that no alcoholic drinks are served while the train is passing through
'Prohibition'' states (now somewhat numerous). — Tickets are collected on
the train by the Conductor (guard), who sometimes gives counter - checks
in exchange for them. Separate tickets are issued for the seats in parlor-
cars and the berths in sleeping-cars ; and such cars generally have special
conductors. Fees are rarely given except to the coloured Porters of the
parlor-cars, who brush the traveller's clothes and (on overnight journeys)
boots and expect about 25 c. a day. In America the traveller is left to
rely upon his own common sense still more freely than in England, and
no attempt is made to take care of him in the patriarchal fashion of Con-
tinental railways. He should, therefore, be careful to see that he is in
his proper car, etc. The conductor calls 'all aboard', when the train is
about to start, but a warning bell is seldom or never rung. The names
of the places passed are often not shown distinctly (sometimes not at
all) at the stations, and the brakeman or trainman, whose duty it is to
announce each station as the train reaches it, is apt to be entirely unintelli-
gible. A special word of caution may be given as to the frequent necessity
for crossing the tracks, as the rails are often flush with the floor of the
station and foot-bridges or tunnels are rarely provided. Each locomotive
carries a large bell, which is tolled as it approaches stations or level
('grade') crossings. — With the exception of the main line trains in the
Eastern States (some of which rank among the fastest in the world), the
speed of American trains is generally lower than that of English trains;
and over a large portion of the South and West it does not exceed 25-30 M.
per hour even for through-trains. It should be remembered that on Sunday
railway service is often very poor, especially as regards connections.
Fares vary so much in different parts of the country, that it is difficult
to state an average. Perhaps 3 c. (li/2(^.) per mile will be found nearly
correct on the whole, though in many cases the rate is lower, especially for
season, 'commutation' (good for so many trips), or mileage tickets, while
in the South and West 3 c. is sometimes exceeded. The general tendency
is towards a final adjustment on a 2c. basis. The extra rate for the
palace-cars (V2-I c. per mile) is low as compared with the difference be-
tween the first and third class fares in England, and the extra comfort
afforded is very great. Return-tickets ('excursion' or 'round trip' tickets)
are often issued at considerable reductions (comp. also p. xxii). The
1000 M. Tickets, from which the conductor collects coupons representing
the number of miles travelled, is a convenient arrangement. A distinction
is frequently made between 'Limited' and 'Unlimited' tickets, the former
and cheaper admitting of continuous passage only, without 'stopovers' ;
and the latter being available until used and admitting of 'stopovers' at
any place on the route. Tickets may sometimes be obtained at lower than
Baedekes's United States. 4th Edit. b
xviii in. RAILWAYS.
the regulation rates at the offices of tlie so-called 'Scalpers', found in all
large towns 5 but the stranger should hardly attempt to deal with them
unless aided by a friendly expert. In some states their business is illegal.
Railway-fares change more frequently in the United States than in Europe,
so that the continued accuracy of those given throughout the Handbook
cannot be guaranteed. — At the larger railway-stations the place of the first,
second, and third class waiting-rooms of Europe is taken by a Ladies''
Boom, to which men are also generally admitted if not smoking, and a
Men^s Room, in which smoking is usually permitted.
Among the American Railway Tefms with which the traveller should
be familiar (in addition to those already incidentally mentioned) are
the following. Railroad is generally used instead of railway (the latter
term being more often applied to street-railways, i.e. tramways), while
the word '•E.oad'' alone is often used to mean railroad. The carriages
are called Gars. The Conductor is aided by Trainmen or Brakemen, whose
duties include attention to the heating and lighting of the cars. A slow
train is called an Accommodation, Local, or Way Train. Tbe Ticket Office is
never called booking-office. Coupon Tickets are tickets for long journeys,
usually over the lines of different corporations, consisting of two or more
detachable coupons for the intermediate stages. Luggage is Baggage, and
is expedited through the Baggage Master (see below). Depot is very com-
monly used instead of station, and in many places the latter word, when
used alone, means police-station. A season-ticket holder is known as a Com-
muter. Other terms in common use are: turn-out = siding: bumper =
buffer; box-car = closed goods car; freight-train = goods train; caboose =
guard's van (of goods train); cars = train; to pull out = to start; tcay
station = small, wayside station; cow-catcher = fender in front of engine;
switch = shunt; switches = points.
The railway-system of the United States is so vast that it is imprac-
ticable to produce such complete Railway Guides as those of European
countries. The fullest is The Official Guide of the Railways and Steam
Navigation Lines in the United States, Porto Rico, Canada, Mexico, and Cuba,
a bulky volume of 1200-1300 pp., published monthly at New York (3 1).
The Traveller s Railway Guide, Eastern Section, and Western Section, issued
monthly at Xew York and Chicago (each 25 c.), are pocket- editions of the
Official Guide. Local collections of time-tables are everywhere procurable,
and those of each railway- company may be obtained gratis at the ticket-
offices and in hotels. All the more important railway-companies publish
a mass of 'folders' and descriptive pamphlets, which are distributed gratis
and give a great deal of information about the country traversed. These
are often very skilfully prepared and well illustrated.
Luggage. Each passenger on an American railway is generally en-
titled to 150 lbs. of luggage ('baggage') free. The so-called Check System
makes the management of luggage very simple. On arrival at the station
the traveller shows his railway -ticket and hands over his impedimenta
to the Baggage Master, who fastens a small numbered tag, made of brass
or cardboard, to each article and gives the passenger brass or cardboard
'checks' with corresponding numbers. The railway-company then becomes
responsible for the luggage and holds it until reclaimed at the passenger's
destination by the presentation of the duplicate check. As the train ap-
proaches the larger cities, a Tratisfer Agent usually walks through the
cars, undertaking the delivery of luggage and giving receipts in exchange
for the checks. The charge for this is usually at least 25 c. per package, and
it is thus more economical (though a composition may sometimes be effected
for a number of articles) to have one large trunk instead of two or three
smaller ones. The hotel-porters who meet the train will also take the
traveller's checks and see that his baggage is delivered at the hotel. In
starting, the trunks may be sent to the railway-station in the same way,
either through a transfer agent or the hotel-porter, who give a 'claim-
check', to be exchanged at the station. If the traveller already has his
railway-ticket they may often be checked through from the house or hotel
to his destination, even though that be at the other side of the continent,
3000 M. away. Baggage, unaccompanied by its owner, may be sent to
m. ELECTRIC TRAMWAYS. xix
any part of the country T)y the Express Companies (eomp. p. 20), which
charge in proportion to weight and distance. The drawbacks to the transfer
system are that the baggage must nsually be ready to be called for before
the traveller himself requires to start, and that sometimes (especially in
New York) a little delay may take place in its delivery; but this may,
of course, be avoided by the more expensive plan of using a carriage be-
tween the house and railway-station.
Steamers. Some of the American steamers , shcIl as the Fall
River and Hudson boats (pp. 81, 246), offer comforts and Inxnries
such as are scarcely known in Europe, and their fares are nsnally
moderate. Where the fare does not include a separate stateroom, the
traveller by night will find the extra expenditure for one ($ 1-2)
more than compensated. Meals are sometimes included in the fare
and are sometimes served either h la carte or at a fixed price. Through-
out the Handbook the traveller -will find indicated the routes on which
he may advantageously prefer the steamer to the railway.
Coaches , usually called Stages , and in some country-places
Barges, have now been replaced by railways throughout nearly the
whole of the United States, but in places like the Yosemite (p. 540),
the Yellowstone (p. 447), etc., the traveller is still dependent on this
mode of conveyance. The roads are generally so bad, that the
delights of coaching as known in England are for the most part
conspicuously absent. The speed seldom exceeds 6 M. an hour and
is sometimes less than this. The fares are relatively high.
Carriages. Carriage-hire is very high in the United States in
spite of the fact that neither the price of horses nor their keep is
higher than in England. Fares vary so much that it is impossible
to give any general approximation, but they are rarely less than
twice as high as in Europe. When the traveller drives himself in a
'buggy' or other small carriage, the rates are relatively much lower.
Electric Tramways. The enormous increase in the number of
Electric Tramways, Light Railways, or ^Trolley Lines'' has been one
of the most striking features of the transportation system of the
United States in the past few years. There are now about 40,000 M.
of electric track and 90,000 cars, employing 240,000 men and carrying
9,000,000,000 passengers yearly.
Xot only do nearly all the cities of the United States possess excellent
systems of electric tramways, which enable the tourist to visit the points
of interest, urban and suburban, at a minimum expenditure of time and
money, but the network of lines extends all over the country, often oifering-
a journey of 100 M. or more at a very moderate cost. It is (e.g.) practicable
to go from Maine to New York (420 31.) in a successive series of such
tramways, while the distance between New York or Boston and Chicago
(ca. 1000 M.) may be traversed with breaks of only a few miles. This
way of travelling offers many advantages to the tourist who wishes to
becom_e as intimately acquainted as possible with the country he traverses.
Some of these trolley-lines attain a maximum speed of ^-50 M. per hour.
IV. Plan of Tour.
The plan of tour must depend entirely on the traveller's taste
and the time he has at his disposal. It is manifestly impossible to
b*
XX IV. PLAN OF TOUR.
cover more than a limited section of so vast a territory in an ordinary
travelKng season; but the enormous distances are practically much
dominished by the comfortable arrangements for travelling at night
(cimp. p. xvi). Among the grandest natural features of the country
are Niagara Falls (R. 14), the Yellowstone Park (R. 72), the Yosem-
ite Valley (R. 86), Alaska (R. 120), and the Grand Canyon of
the Colorado (p. 481). Along with these may be mentioned the
canyons, mountains, and fantastic rocks of Colorado (RR. 75, 77),
the grand isolated snow- covered volcanic cones of the Pacific coast
(pp. 446, 469, 505, etc.), the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky (p. 584),
the Cavern of Luray (p. 597), the Natural Bridge of Virginia (p. 598),
and the Shoshone Falls (p. 467). Among the most easily accessible
regions of fine scenery are the Adirondacks (R. 8), the ^^hite Mts.
(R. 43), the Catskills (R. 7), Mt. Desert (R. 37), the Hudson (R. 4),
and the Delaware Water Gap (p. 140). Visitors to the S., besides
the climate and vegetation, will find much to repay them, especially
in such quaint old cities as New Orleans (R. 109). California [RR. 79-
87) abounds in objects of interest and beauty. The trip into Mexico
(RR. 111-115) is weU worth the making, and may be extended (via
Vera Cruz) to Cuba (RR. 116-118) and Porto Rico (R. 119). Tra-
vellers who make the trip to the Pacific Coast and back will do well
so to plan their journey as to include the wonderful scenery of the
Denver & Rio Grande Railroad (R. 77), as well as a trip into the
Yellowstone Park, while the W. part of the Canadian Pacific Rail-
way, between Vancouver and Banff (about 600 M. ; see Baedeker's
Canada), offers the grandest railway scenery in North America. Most
of the larger cities have their own special points of interest, and a
visit to the national capital (p. 211) should by all means be made.
Where tte territory included is so vast and the possible combina-
tions of tours so endless, it may seem almost useless to attempt to draw
up any specimen tours. The following, however, though not intrinsically
better than hundreds of others, may serve to give the traveller some idea
of the distances to be traversed and of the average expenses of locomotion.
It is, perhaps, needless to say that the traveller will enjoy himself better
if he content himself with a less rapid rate of progress than that here
indicated. A daily outlay of $10-12 will probably cover all the regular
travelling expenses, on the under-noted tours 5 and this rate may be much
diminished by longer halts.
a. A Week from New York.
(Railway Expenses about §40.) Days
New York to Albany by steamer (R. 4a) 1
Albany to Buffalo and Niagara Falls (RR. 12, 14) IV2
Niagara Falls to Toronto (see Baedekei''s Canada) ^/2
Toronto to Montreal by Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence (R. 15) IV2
Montreal to Boston (RR. 42, 31) 2
Boston to New Tori (R. 30) _l V2
7
Visits to the CaUkills (R. 7), Adirondacks (R. 8), and White Mts. (R. 43)
may easily be combined with the above tour. Or we may go from Mont-
real to Quebec (see Baedeker^s Caiiada; V2 day) and thence to Portland
(RR. 41, 35) or to Boston direct (R. 42).
IV. PLAN OF TOUR. xxi
b. A Week from New York.
(With use of night-trains-, fares about $50.) Days
New York by Fall River or Metropolitan Line to Boston (E.E. 30, 31) 1
From Boston by night-train (13V2 hrs.) to Buffalo (RR. 30, 12). . . 1/2
Buffalo and Niagara Falls (RR. 12, 14) 1/2
From Buffalo by night- train (13 hrs.) to Chicago (R. 50) 1/2
Chicago (R. 51) 1/2
Chicago to Washington and at Washington (RR. 29g, 28) 3
Washington to Philadelphia and at Philadelphia (RR. 27, 25, 17) . . Vs
Philadelphia to New York (R. 16) by evening train i/s
c. A Fortnight from New York. '
(Railway Fares about § 60.)
New York to Niagara Falls as at p. xx (RR. 4, 12, 14) 21/2
Niagara Falls to Chicago (R. 50) 1
Chicago (R. 51) 3
Chicago to Washington and at Washington (RR. 49, 28) 4
Washington to Baltimore (RR. 27, 26) 1
Baltimore to Philadelphia (R. 25) 1/2
Philadelphia, and back to New York (RR. 17, 16) _^ 2_
d. Three Weeks from New York. 1^
(Railway Fares about § 120.)
New York to Chicago as above (RR. 4, 12, 14, 50) 6V2
Chicago to St. Louis (RR. 58, 63) IV2
St. Louis to New Orleans (RR. 93, 109) 2
New Orleans to Jacksonville (RR. 108, 103) 2
Jacksonville to St. Augustine (R. 104) 1
St. Augustine to Richmond (RR. 103a, 88) IV2
Richmond to Washington (R. 88) 1/2
Washington, and back to iVew York as above (RR- 28, 27, 26, 25, 17, 16) 5
e. Six Weeks from New York. 20
(Railway Fares S 300-350.)
New York to Chicago as above (RR. 4, 12, 14, 50) 6V2
Chicago to St. Paul and Minneapolis (RR. 53, 54) 2
St. Paul to Livingston (R. 71) IV2
Yellowstone Park (R. 72) 6
Livingston to Portland (R. 71, 79) 2
Portland to San Francisco (R. 79) IV2
San Francisco, with excursions to Monterey, etc. (RR. 80, 81, 82) . . 5
San Francisco to the Yosemite and back (RR. 82, 86) 4
San Francisco to Salt Lake City (RE. 73, 77) 3
Salt Lake City to Denver via the Marshall Pass, with excursions from
Colorado Springs to Manitou, etc. (RR. 77, 75) 51/2
Denver to St. Louis (RR. 63, 63) 21/2
St. Louis to New York (R. 62) IV2
f. Two Months from New York. ^^
(Railway Fares $ 350-400.)
To San Francisco as above (RR. 4, 12, 14, 50, 53, 54, 71, 72, 79, 80. 81) 241/2
San Francisco to the Yosemite (RR. 82, 86) 31/2
Yosemite to Los Angeles {Pasadena, etc.; RR. 82, 83, 84) 31/2
Los Angeles via Barstow and Williams to the Grand Canyon of the
Colorado (RR. 76, 75b) 3
Williams to Colorado Springs (Manitou, etc.), with excursion to Mar-
shall Pass from Pueblo (RR. 75b, 77) 5
Colorado Springs to Denver (RR. 77, 75a) 1
Excursions from Denver (R. 75a) 8
Denver to Kansas City and St. Louis (R. 63) 21/2
St. Louis to Cincinnati (R. 62d) IV2
Cincinnati to Washington (R. 60d) 1
Washington, and thence to New York as in Tour b (RR. 28, 27, 26, 25, 17,16) 6V2
55
xxii V. HOTELS.
The following table of the distances from New York of a few impor-
tant points, together with the present railway fares and approximate
duration of the jonrney, may not be without interest. The fares are for
first-class, 'limited' tickets, but do not include sleeping-car rates.
Boston: 215-230 M.; $ 4.65 5 5-6 hrs. - Chicago: 912-104S M. ; S 18-20;
24-36 hrs. — Cincinnati: 760 M.; $15-17; 22-26 hrs. — Denver: 1940-2130 M.;
$40-43; 21/4-3 da vs. — /aci-soTii'iWe (Florida) : 993-1014 M. ; $ 25-26 ; 25-36 hrs.—
Kansas City: 1335-1510 M.; $26-29; 40-48 hrs. — Los Angeles: 3150-3750 M.;
$ 76-78 ; 41/2-51/2 days. — Montreal: 3S0-450 M. ; $ 10.30 ; 13-15 hrs. — New
Orleans: 1370 M. ; $ 31-33; 40-46 hrs. — Niagara Falls: 460 M. ; $8-91/4;
9-12 hrs. — Philadelphia: 90 M. ; $21/4; 2-21/2 hrs. — Richmond: 345 M.;
S 9.15; IO1/2-I2 hrs. — St. Louis: 1060-1170 M. ; S 21-24; 30-38 hrs. — St. Paul:
1330 M. ; $ 26-28 ; 37 hrs. — Salt Lake City: 2475-2850 31. ; $ 54-57 ; 3-4 daya. —
San Francisco: distance 3300-3500 M.; fare $76-79; time of transit 41/2-51/2
days. — Washington: 228 M. ; $5.65; 5-61/2 hrs.
Excursion Agents. Travellers may sometimes find it advantageous
to avail themselves of the facilities for tours in the United States offered by
the Raymond <& Whitcomh Co. (306 Washington St., Boston, and 25 Union Sq.,
ITew York) ar.d Thomas Cook & Son (245 Broadway, New York). These
firms have agencies in all the most frequented resorts throughout the
country. The Raymond & Whitcomb Co. arranges for a large series of
excursions in special vestibuled trains, under the care of one of its
representatives, which relieves the inexperienced traveller of almost all
the inconveniences of a journey in a strange land. The arrangements are
made so as to afford the widest possible freedona. of movem.ent in every
way, and the charges are reasonable. For the Raymond trip into Mexico,
seep. 640. Among other tourist agents are Charles H. Gates ^ Toledo
(706 Madison Ave.), the American Tourist Association, Chicago (1418 Mar-
quette Building, Dearborn St.), and McCann'^s Tours, New York (1414 Broad-
way). — Most of the railway-companies issue tickets for circular tours on
favourable conditions, and some of them (such as the Pennsylvania R.R.
and the Burlington Route) also arrange personally conducted excursions in
special trains.
The Pedestrian is unquestionably the most independent of travellers,
bnt, except in a few districts such as the Aoirondacks (p. 104) and the
White Mts. (p. 320), walking tours are not much in vogue in the United
States, where, indeed, the extremes of temperature and the scarcity of
well-marked footpaths often offer considerable obstacles. For a short
tour a couple of flannel shirts , a pair of worsted stockings , slippers, the
articles of the toilet, a light waterproof, and a stout umbrella will gen-
erally be found a sufficient equipment. Strong and well-tried boots are
essential to comfort. Heavy and complicated knapsacks should be avoided;
a light pouch or game-bag is far less irksome , and its position may be
shifted at pleasure. A more extensive reserve of clothing should not
exceed the limits of a small portmanteau, which may be forwarded from
town to town by express.
V. Hotels and Eestanrants.
Hotels. The quality of the hotels of the United States (said to be
45,000 in nnmher) varies very greatly in different localities ; but it
is, perhaps, safe to say that the best American houses will be found
fully as comfortable as the first-class hotels of Europe by all who
can accommodate themselyes to the manners of the country and do
not demand everything precisely as they have been used to it at
home. The luxury of some of the leading American hotels is, indeed,
seldom paralleled in Europe. The charges are little, if at all, higher
than those of the best European houses; but the comforts often
afforded by the smaller and less pretentious inns of the old country
V. HOTELS. xxili
can seldom be looked for from American honses of the second or third
class, and the traveller who wishes to economize will find boarding-
honses (see p. xxiv) preferable. When ladies are of the party, it is
advisable to freqnent the best hotels only. The hotels of the Sonth
are often poor and (in proportion to their accommodation) dear ; but
great improvement has taken place of recent years. Many of the
hotels in the West, on the other hand, even in the newest cities,
are astonishingly good, and California contains some of the best and
cheapest hotels in the United States. The food is generally abundant
and of good quality, though the cuisine is unequal (comp. p. xxiv).
Beds are almost uniformly excellent. The quality of the service
varies. Rooms adjoining the elevator or overlooking streets with
tramway-lines should be avoided. It should not be overlooked that
many of the largest and best hotels at both summer - resorts and
winter-resorts are not open except in the regular season.
A distinction is made between Hotels on the American Plan, in wliicti
a fixed charge is made per day for board and lodging, and Hotels on the
European Plan, in which a fixed charge is made for rooms only, while
meals are taken d la carte either in the hotel or elsewhere. No separate
charge is made for service. The European system is becoming more and
more common in the larger cities, especially in the East 5 hut the American
plan is universal in the smaller towns and country-districts. Many hotels
in the large cities offer a choice of systems. The rate of hotels on the
American plan varies from about $6 per day in the best houses down to
$2 per day or even less in the smaller towns 5 and $3-4 a day will
probably be found about the average rate on an ordinary tour. The
charge for a room at a good hotel on the European plan is from $ 1
upwards. Many of the American hotels vary their rate according to the
room, and where two prices are mentioned in the Handbook the traveller
should indicate the rate he wishes to pay. Most of the objections to rooms
on the upper floor are obviated by the excellent service of 'elevators'
(lifts). Very large reductions are made by the week or for two persons
occupying the same room; and very much higher prices may be paid for
extra accommodation. Throughout the Handbook the insertion of a price
after the name of a hotel ($5) means its rate on the American plan;
where the hotel is on the European plan (exclusively or alternatively) the
price of the room is indicated (R. from $ 1). The above rates include
all the ordinary requirements of hotel-life, and no 'extras' appear in the
bill. The custom of giving lees to the servants is by no means so general
as in Europe, though it is becoming more and more common. In hotels
on the American system the meals are usually served at regular hours
(a latitude of about 2 hrs. being allowed for each). The daily charge is
considered as made up of four items (room, breakfast, dinner, and supper),
and the visitor should see that his bill begins with the first meal he takes.
Thus, at a $4 a day house, if the traveller arrives before supper and
leaves after breakfast the next day, his bill will be §3; if he arrives
after supper and leaves at the same time, $2; and so on. No ajlowance
is made for absence from meals. Dinner is usually served in th e middle
of the day, except in large cities.
On reaching the hotel, the traveller enters the Office^ a large and often
comfortably fltted-up apartment, used as a general rendezvous and smok-
ing-room, not only by the hotel-guests, but often also by local residents.
On one side of it is the desk of the Hotel Clerk, who keeps the keys of
the bedrooms, supplies unlimited letter-paper gratis, and is supposed to
be more or less omniscient on all points on which the traveller is likely
to require information. Here the visitor enters his name in the 'register'
kept for the purpose, and has his room assigned to him by the clerk, who
details a 'bell-boy'' to show him the way to his room and carry up hi s
xxiv V. RESTAURANTS.
hand-baggage. If h.e has not already disposed of his 'baggage-checks'" in
the way described at p. xviii, he should now give them to the clerk and
ask to have his trunks fetched from the station and sent up to his room.
If he has already parted with his checks, he identifies his baggage in the
hall when it arrives and tells the head-porter what room he wishes it
sent to. On entering the dining-room the visitor is shown to his seat by
the head-waiter, instead of selecting the first vacant seat that suits his
fancy. The table-waiter then hands the guest the menu of the day, from
which (in hotels on the American plan) he orders what he chooses. Many
Am.ericans order the whole of their meals at once, but this is by no
means necessary except in primitive localities or inferior hotels. The
key of the oedroom should always be left at the office when the
visitor goes out. Guests do not leave their boots at the bedroom door
to be blacked as in Europe (except in the first-class houses), but will find
a 'boot-black' in the toilette-room (fee 10 c. ; elsewhere 5c.). Large Amer-
ican hotels also generally contain a barber's shop (shave 20-25 c. ; elsewhere
10-15 c), railway-ticket, express, telegraph, telephone, messenger-service,
type-writing, theatrical, and livery offices, book-stalls, etc. In many large
hotels all telegrams coming for guests before their arrival are placed in a
box on the hotel-clerk's counter, and each guest is expected to look through
these for himself.
The following hints may be useful to hotel-keepers who wish to meet
the tastes of European visitors. The wash-basins in the bedrooms should
be much larger than is generally the case. Two or three large towels
are preferable to the half-dozen small ones usually provided. A carafe
or jug of fresh drinking water (not necessarily iced) and a tumbler should
always be kept in each bedroom. If it were possible to give baths more
easily and cheaply, it would be a great boon to English visitors. It is now,
fortunately, more usual than of yore for the price of a bedroom to include
access to a general bathroom 5 but those who wish a private bath in or
attached to their bedroom must still pay about $1 (4s.) a day extra. Xo
hotel can be considered first-class or receive an asterisk of commendation
that refuses to supply food to travellers who are prevented from appearing
at the regular meal-hours.
Boarding Houses. For a stay of more than a day or two the
visitor will sometimes find it convenient and more economical to
live at a Boarding House. These ahound everywhere and can easily
be found on inquiry. Their rates vary from about $ 8 a week
upwards. At many places the keepers of such houses also receive
transient guests, and they are generally preferable to inferior hotels.
— Furnished Rooms are easily procured in the larger cities, from
$ 3-4 a week upwards (comp. p. 14). Soap, curiously enough, though
provided in hotels, is not provided in boarding-houses or lodgings.
Restaurants. In New York and other large cities the traveller
will find many excellent restaurants, but in other places he will do
well to take his meals at his hotel or boarding-house. Restaurants
are attached to all hotels on the European plan (p. xxiii). A single
traveller will generally find the h la carte restaurants rather expen-
sive, but one portion will usually be found enough for two guests
and two portions ample for three. The table d'hote restaurants, on the
other hand, often give excellent value for their charges (comp. p. 14).
Soup, fish, poultry, game, and sweet dishes are generally good; but the
beef and mutton areoften inferior to those of England. Oysters, served
in a great variety of styles, are large, plentiful, and comparatively cheap.
In America wine or beer is much less frequently drunk at meals than
in Europe, and the visitor is not expected to order liquor 'for the good
VI. POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICES. xxv
of the house'. Iced water is the universal beverage, and a cup of tea or
coffee is included in all meals at a fixed price. Wine is generally poor
or dear, and often both. It is much to be regretted that, outside of Cali-
fornia, the native vintages, which are often superior to the cheap imported
wines, seldom appear on the wine-Ust; and travellers will do good service
by making a point of demanding Californian wines and expressing surprise
when they cannot be furnished. Liquors of all kinds are sold at Saloons
(public houses) and Hotel Bars (comp. p. 15). Restaurants which solicit
the patronage of 'gents' should be avoided. The meals on dining-cars
and 'buffet cars' are generally preferable to those at railway-restaurants.
Tipping the waiter is, perhaps, not so general as in Europe, but is usually
found serviceable where several meals are taken at the same place. Cafes,
in the European sense, are seldom found in the United States except in
New Orleans (p. 631) and a few other cities with a large French or German
element in the population. The name, however, is constantly used as the
equivalent of restaurant and is sometimes applied to first-class bar-rooms .
VI. Post and Telegraph Offices.
Post Office. The regulations of the American postal service are
essentially similar to those of Great Britain, though the practice of
delivering letters at the houses of the addressees has not been uni-
formly extended to the rural districts. The service is, perhaps, not
quite so prompt and accurate. The supply of letter-boxes is gen-
erally abundant, but the number of fully equipped post-offices is
much lower (proportionately) than in England. Stamps are sold at
all drug-stores and hotels, and often by letter-carriers.
All 'mailable' matter for transmission within the United States and to
Canada, Cuba, Porto Eico, and Mexico is divided into four classes:
ist. Letters and all Sealed Packets (rate of postage 2 c. per oz. or fraction
thereof); 2nd. Newspapers and Periodicals (1 c. per 4 oz.j; 3rd. Books, etc.
(1 c. per 2 oz.); 4th. Merchandise and Samples (1 c. per oz.). Postal cards 1 c. ;
reply postal cards 2 c. A 'special delivery stamp' (10 c.) affixed to a letter,
in addition to the ordinary postage, entitles it to immediate delivery by
special messenger within certain limits. For this purpose ordinary stamps
to the same value may also be used, with the word^ 'Special Delivery'
added. Letters to countries in the Postal Union cost 5 c. for the first oz.
and 3 c. for each additional oz., postal cards 2 c, reply postal cards 4 c,
books and newspapers 1 c. per 2 oz. Letters to Great Britain and Germany,
however, are sent at the domestic rate (2 c. per oz.). Reply coupons are
now issued, exchangeable for stamps in the country of destination. The
Begistration Fee is 8 c. ; the stamp must be affixed to the letter before pre-
sentation for registration, and the name and address of the sender must be
written on the envelope. Undeliverable letters will be returned free to the
sender, if a request to that effect be written or printed on the envelope.
Domestic Money Orders are issued by money-order post-offices for any
amount up to $ 100, at the following rates : for sums not exceeding $ 21/^,
3 c. ; S 21/2-5, 5 c. ; S 5-10 , 8 c. ; $ 10-20, 10 c. ; $ 20-30, 12 c. ; $ 30-40, 15 c. ;
S iO-50, 18 c. ; $ 50-60, 20 c. ; S 60-75, 25 c. ; $ 75-100, 30 c. For strangers these
are not so convenient as the money-orders of the Express Companies \ comp.
p. xiii), as identification of the payee is demanded. — Foreign Money Orders
cost from 5c. to 10c. for each SIO (for Great Britain and its Colonies 10 c).
Telegraph Offices. The telegraphs of the United States are
largely in the hands of the Western Union Telegraph Co., with its
headquarters in New York (p. 20), and the service is neither so
cheap nor so prompt and trustworthy as that of Great Britain. At the
beginning of 1907 this company owned 205,646 M. of line and
1,321,199 M. of wire, while the number of despatches sent by it in
xxvi Vn. GLOSSARY.
1907 was 74,804,551. The Postal Telegraph Cable Co. has 60,216 M.
of line and 350,127 M. of wire and sends ahont 25,000,000 messages
annuaUy. The rates from New York are given at p. 20, and from
these may be ronghly estimated the prohable rates from other parts of
the country. — In 1907 the United States contained ahout 6,000,000 M.
of Telephone Wires, with 7,107,936 telephones (comp. p. 20). Tel-
ephones are in operation in all the large, and many of the small, towns
thronghont the country. The total annual number of telephone mess-
ages is over 9,000,000,000 , as compared with 725,000,000 in the
Biitish Isles and 1,207,000,000 in Germany.
VII. Glossary.
The following short list of words in frequent use in the United
States in a sense not commonly known in England may he found of
service. The speech of the cultivated American, of course, varies
little from the speech of the cultivated Englishman, and no mis-
understanding is likely to arise in their verbal intercourse j but it
will not unfrequently be found that railway-officials, cabmen, waiters,
and the like do not know what is meant by the British equivalents
of the following expressions. It must not be understood that the
under-noted words are all in use throughout the whole of the United
States. A New Englander, for instance, may tell you that 'he never
heard such a word', when you use a term in regular use by all
classes in the West or South. The list, which might be extended
indefinitely, does not attempt to enumerate the local names for dif-
ferent kinds of food, implements, etc. ; nor does it mean to include
words that are solely and avowedly 'slang'. Purely technical terms
are also avoided. Comp. p. xviii (railway terms), p. xxiii, etc.
Bed-spread, coverlet, counterpane.
Biscuit, hot tea-rolls.
Bit (California and the Soutli), i2V2 c.
(two bits 25 c, six bits 75 c).
Blind, shutter.
Block, rectangular mass of building
bounded by four streets. .
Boots, used only of boots coming up
wholly or nearly to the knee. Comp.
Shoes and Ties.
5o«,master,head, person in authority.
Boiel, basin (Set Bowl, fixed-in basin).
Bright, clever.
Broncho, native (Western) horse.
Bug, beetle, insect of almost any
kind.
Bureau, chest of drawers.
Burro (California and the South
West), donkey.
Calico, printed cotton cloth.
Carom, cannon (at billiards).
Chore, odd job about a house done
by a man (the masculine of char).
Chowder, a kind of thick fish soup.
Citi/, corporate town or municipal
borough.
Clerk, shopman.
Clever, good-natured.
Corn, Maize or Indian corn.
Cowloy, cattle herdsman.
Cracker, biscuit; also, in the Southern
State?, a poor white man.
Creek (often pron. crick), a small
stream.
Cunning., neat, pretty, tiny (mainly
of children or small pet animals).
Cute is often used in much the same
sense.
Cuspidor, spittoon.
Cutter, light, one-horse sleigh.
Deck, pack of cards (used by Shak-
speare).
Dirt, earth, soil {e.g., a 'dirt tennis-
courf).
Drummer, commercial traveller.
Dry Goods, dress materials, drap-
ery, etc.
Dunib (often), stupid (Ger. dumm).
vm. GENERAL HINTS.
XXVll
Elevator, lift.
Fall, autumn.
Fix, to arrange, make, put in order,
settle, see to, etc.
Fleshy, stout.
Floor-walker, shop-walker.
Orip or Grip-sack, hand-bag.
Gums, overshoes (see Rubbers).
Gun, to go shooting.
Hack, cab; hackman, cabman.
Help, servant.
High Ball, whiskey and soda.
Hitchup,io harness ; h%tching-post.,^Qsi
to tie horses to.
Horse Gar, tramway-car.
Hunt, to go shooting.
Lines, reins.
Lot, a piece or division of land in a
city.
Lovely, loveable.
Lumber, wood, timber. ('Timber' in
American usage means the heavy
logs, while 'lumber' is a more
general term.)
Lunch, a slight meal at any hour of
the day.
Mad, vexed, cross.
Mail, to post; postal matter; postal
service.
Mucilage, liquid gum.
Muslin, cotton cloth.
Nasty, disgusting (not used before
'ears polite'').
Notions, small wares.
Observatory (often), belvedere or
view-tower (Ger. Aussichisturm).
Parlor, drawing-room.
Piazza, veranda.
Pie, tart or pie.
Pitcher, jug.
Prince Albert (coat), frock-coat.
Rapid Transit, a general name for
elevated railroads and similar
means of rapid city and suburban
locomotion.
Recitation, lesson, college lecture.
Ride, applied to any mode of convey-
ance (horse, carriage, boat, etc.).
Right away, directly.
Rock,siOTi& of any size; to throw stones.
Rooster, cock.
Rubbers, galoshes, overshoes.
Run, to manage, carry on (a busi-
ness, etc.).
Sack, Sacque, jacket.
Safe, larder (meat-safe, etc.).
Shine, to black or polish (boots).
Ship, to send goods by train as well
by sea.
Shoes, used for boots not coming
above the top of the ancle.
Shortage, deficiency.
Sick, ill.
Sophomore, student in his second year
at college. Students of the first,
third, and fourth years are named
Freshmen, Juniors, and Seniors.
Span, pair of horses.
Spool (of cotton), reel (of thread).
Stage, coach, omnibus.
Store, shop.
Street Gar, tramway-car.
Take out. An American takes a lady
'out' to dinner, while an English-
man takes her 'in'.
Team, often applied to one horse.
Telegraph Blank, telegraph form.
Ties, low shoes ; railway sleepers.
Town, township or parish (thus one
hears of the highest mountain or
the best crop in the town).
Track, railway-line.
Trolley, electric tramway with over-
head wire.
Tuxedo, dinner-jacket.
Ugly, ill-tempered, malicious.
Under-waist, bodice.
Wagon, carriage.
Waist, body (of a dress).
Wait on (table), wait at.
Wilt, fade, wither.
Window-shade, blind.
In the United States First Floor is usually synonymous with Ground
Floor, while Second Floor corresponds to the English First Floor, and so
on. Throughout the Handbook these terms are used in conformity with
the English custom.
VIII. General Hints.
The first requisites for the enjoyment of a tonr in the United
States are an absence of prejudice and a willingness to accommodate
oneself to the customs of the country. If the traveller exercise a
little patience, he will often find that ways which strike him as un-
reasonable or even disagreeable are more suitable to the environ-
ment than those of his own home would be. He should from
the outset reconcile himself to the absence of deference or servility
xxviii VUI. GENERAL HINTS.
on the part of those he considers his social inferiors ; but if ready
himself to be courteous on a footing of equality he -will seldom meet
any real impoliteness. In a great many ways travelling in the
United States is, to one who understands it, more comfortable than
in Europe. The average Englishman will probably find the chief
physical discomforts in the dirt of the city streets, the roughness of
the country roads, the winter overheating of hotels and railway-cars
(70-80° Fahr. being by no means unusual), the dust, flies, and mos-
quitoes of summer, and (in many places) the habit of spitting on
the floor; but the Americans themselves are now keenly alive to
these weak points and are doing their best to remove them.
Throughout almost the whole country travelling is now as safe as in
the most civilized parts of Europe, and the carrying of arms, which indeed
is forbidden in many States, is as unnecessary here as there. In many
of the western towns, however, it is advisable to avoid the less reputable
quarters and to refrain from entering any shops, barber's rooms, or the
like except those undeniably of the best class. Those who contemplate
excursions into districts remote from the highways of travel should take
local advice as to their equipment. — The social forms of America are,
in their essentials, similar to those of England 5 and the visitor will
do well to disabuse himself of the idea that laxity in their observance
will be less objectionable in the one country than in the other. He
will, of course, find various minor diflferences in dififerent parts of the
country, but good manners will nowhere be at a discount. — 2fo limit
is placed on the number of passengers admitted to public conveyances,
and straps are provided in the cars of tramways and elevarted ailways
to enable those who cannot obtain seats to maintain their equrlibriam.
— The prices of many manufactured goods are much highei in the
United States than in Europe; and the traveller should therefore come
provided with an ample supply of all the articles of personal use he or
she is likely to require, down to such small items as pins and needles,
tapes and ribbons, dress ties and gloves, toilette requisites, buttons, and
matches (often very poor in America). An important exception to the
above rule is boots and shoes, which are excellently made in the United
States and cost, if anything, rather less than in England. Cotton goods
are also as cheap as in Europe. — Indoor clothing for American use
should "be rather thinner in texture than is usual in England, but winter
wraps for outdoor use require to be much thicker. The thick woollen
gowns that English ladies wear in winter would be uncomfortably warm
in the ordinary winter temperature of American hotels ynd railway-car-
irages; and a thin soft silk will, perhaps, be found the most comfortable
travelling dress on account of its non - absorption of dust. Overshoes
('arctics' and 'rubbers') are quite necessary in winter and are worn almost
as much by men as by women. — Weddings frequently take place in the
evening, and are managed by a set of 'ushers' chosen from the bride-
groom's friends. — The rule of the road in America follows the Con-
tinental, not the English system, vehicles passing each other to the right.
The art of the Barber and Eair-Dresser has been developed to a high
point in the United States, where the 'tonsorial saloons' are often very
luxurious. The prices, however, are high (10-25 c. for a shave, including
hair-brushing and the application of essences; hair-cutting 25-35 c, sham-
pooing 15-25 c, 'sea foam' or 'dry shampoo' 10-20 c, etc.).
Public Conveniences are not usually provided in American cities, but
their place is practically supplied by the lavatories of hotels, to which
passers-by resort freely. Accommodation is also furnished at railway
stations. Such public conveniences as do exist in Ifew York and other
large cities are disgracefully inadequate in number, size, and equipment.
The Drinking Water of some of the cities in the United States is not all
that it ought to be, and it is often advisable to make inquiries on this point.
IX. HISTORY. xxix
Public Holidays. The only holidays observed in all the states are
Independence Day (July 4th) and Christmas Day (Dec. 25th). New Year's
Day (Jan. 1st) and Washington's Birthday (Feb. 22nd) are celebrated in
nearly all the states. Decoration Day (May 30th) is set apart in the N.
and W. states for decorating with flowers the graves of those who fell in
the Civil War; and some of the S. states have a Memorial Day for the
same purpose. Thanksgiving Day (last Thurs. in Nov.) is observed with
practical unanimity; and General Election Day (Tues. after the first Mon.
in Nov.) and Labor Day (first Mon. in Sept.) are each celebrated by a large
number of states. In addition to the above, some states have special holi-
days of their own.
IX. A Short History of American Politics,
byl
John Bach McMaster.
What is now the territory of the United States has heen derived
from six European nations. Resting on the discovery by Colnmbus,
and the Bulls of the Popes, Spain claimed the whole Continent, hnt
has been in actual possession only of the Gulf coast from Florida
to Texas, and of the interior from the Mississippi to the Pacific.
The Swedes once had settlements on the Delaware. The Dutch,
followiug up the voyage of Hudson to the river bearing his name,
claimed and held the country from the Delaware to the Connecticut.
The French discovered the St. Lawrence and explored and held mil-
itary possession of the valleys of the Mississippi and Ohio and the
Great Lakes. The English by virtue of the voyages of the Cabots
claimed the Atlantic coast and there founded the colonies which
grew into the thirteen United States. Alaska was purchased from
Russia.
In the course of the struggle, sometimes peaceful, often bloody,
by which the rule of these nations has been thrown off, the Dutch
conquered the Swedes ; the English conquered the Dutch and the
French; the United States expelled the English and in time by
purchase or conquest drove out the Spaniards and the Mexicans.
The first serious struggle for possession occurred in the middle
of the 18th century, when the English moving westward met the
French moving eastward at the sources of the river Ohio. In that
struggle which has come down to us as the 'French and Indian
War' France was worsted and, retiring from this continent, divided
her possessions between England and Spain. To England she gave
Canada and the islands and shores of the Gulf of St. Lawrence and,
entering what is now the United States, drew a line down the
middle of the Mississippi River and gave all to the E. of that line
(save the island on which is the city of New Orleans) to Great
Britain, and all to the W. of it to Spain; Spain at the same time
gave Florida to England as the price of Cuba.
Having thus come into possession of all the country to the E.
of the Great River, King George determined to send out an army of
10,000 men to defend the colonies, and have the latter bear a part
XXX IX. HISTORY.
of the expense. This part he attempted to collect hy duties on goods
imported and hy a Stamp Tax (1765) on legal documents and printed
matter. No tax for revenue had hefore heen laid on America hy act
of Parliament, The colonists therefore resisted this first attempt and
raising the c.iy 'no taxation without representation' they forced Par-
liament to repeal the Stamp Tax in 1766. The right to tax was at
the same time distinctly asserted, and in 1767 was again used, and
duties laid on paints, oils, lead, glass, and tea. Once more the
colonists resisted and, hy refusing to import any goods , cwares, or
merchandise of English make , so distressed the manufa turers of
England that Parliament repealed every tax save that onatea. All
the tea needed in America was now smuggled in from Holl nd. The
East India Company, deprived of the American market, hecame
embarrassed, and, calling on Parliament for aid, was suffered to
export tea, a privilege never before enjoyed. Selecting commis-
sioners in Boston, New York, Philadelphia, and Charleston, cargoes
of tea were duly consigned to them ; but the people would not allow
a pound of it to be sold. At Boston men disguised as Indians
boarded the tea ships and threw the boxes into the harbour (p. 263).
As a punishment for this. Parliament shut the port of Boston
and deprived the people of Massachusetts of many functions of local
government. The Assembly of Massachusetts thereupon called for
a General Congress to meet at Philadelphia on Sept. 5th, 1774. The
colonies gladly responded and this Congress, having issued a
Declaration of Rights and addresses to the King, to Parliament,
and to the People of England, adjourned to await the result. The
day for the reassembling of Congress was May 10th, 1775; but be-
fore that day came, the attempt of Gage to seize military stores
brought on a fight at Lexington (April 19th, 1775; p. 308). The
fight at Lexington was followed by the siege of the British in
Boston, by the formation of the 'Continental Army', by the appoint-
ment of George Washington to command it, by the battle of Bunker
Hill (June 17th, 1775 ; p. 273), and by an expedition against Quebec,
which came to naught, on the last day of the year.
General William Howe meantime had succeeded Gage in com-
mand of the British at Boston, and, finding himself hard pressed
by "Washington, evacuated the city (comp. pp. 274, 258) and sailed
for Halifax. Believing New York was to be attacked, Washington
now hurried to Long Island, where (August 27th, 1776; p. 79) Howe
defeated him, took possession of New Y'ork , and drove him first up
the Hudson and then southward across New Jersey.
Congress, which (July 4th, 1776) had declared the colonies to be
free and independent states, now fled from Philadelphia to Baltimore.
But Washington, turning in his retreat, surprised and captured the
British outpost at Trenton (p. 157). Comwallis instantly hurried
toward that town, but W shington, passing around the British rear,
attacked and captured (at Princeton, Jan. 3rd, 1777; p. 157) a
IX. HISTORY. xxxi
detaehment on its march to Trenton, and then went into winter
qnarters at Morristown.
With the return of spring Howe, finding that he could not
reach Philadelphia hy land withont passing in front of the Con-
tinental Army stretched out on a strongly intrenched line across
New Jersey, went by sea. Washington met him at Chadd's Ford on
the Brandywine (p. 202], was defeated, and on Sept. 25th, 1777,
Howe entered Philadelphia. In the attempt to dislodge him Wash-
ington fonght and lost the battle of Germantown (Oct. 4th, 1777;
p. 175). The loss of Philadelphia was more than made good by the
capture of Burgoyne and his army at Saratoga (Oct. 17th, 1777,
p. 120), while on his way from Canada to New York City.
The fruits of this victory were the recognition of the Independence
of the United States by France, the treaty of alliance with France
(Feb. 8th, 1778), and the evacuation of Philadelphia by Clinton,
who had succeeded Howe. Washington , who had spent the winter
at Yalley Forge (p. 186), instantly followed, and overtaking Clinton
at Monmonth fought and won the battle at that place (June 29th,
1778). Clinton escaped to New York, and Washington, drawing his
army in a circle about the city from Morristown on the S. to West
Point on the N., awaited further movements.
Turning towards the Southern States, the British commander now
despatched an expedition which took Savannah and overran the State
of Georgia. The year which followed (1779) is memorable for the
capture of Stony Point by Anthony Wayne (p. 83), for the treason
of Benedict Arnold (pp. 83, 84, 89), for the execution of Major John
Andre (pp. 83, 87), for the capture of the Serapis by Paul Jones after
one of the most desperate naval battles on record, and by the failure
of an attempt by the Americans to retake Savannah (p. 609). In
1780 Clinton led an expedition from New York to Charleston, took
the city, swept over South Carolina, and, leaving Cornwallis in com-
mand, hurried back to New York. Gates, who now attempted to
dislodge the British, was beaten. Greene now succeeded Gates, and
Morgan, the commander of his light troops, won the battle of the
Cowpens (Jan. 17th, 1781 ; p. 571). This victory brought up Corn-
wallis, who chased Greene across the State of North Carolina to Guil-
ford Court House (p. 570), where Greene was beaten and Cornwallis
forced to retreat to Wilmington. Moving southward, Greene was
again beaten in two pitched battles , but forced the British to
withdraw within their lines at Charleston and Savannah.
Cornwallis meantime moved from Wilmington into Virginia and
took possession of Yorktown. And now Washington , who had long
been watching New York, again took the offensive, hurried across
New Jersey and Pennsylvania, and, while a French fleet closed the
Chesapeake Bay, he besieged Cornwallis by land, till (Oct. 19th,
1781) the British General surrendered (p. 559). This practically
ended the war.
xxxii IX. HISTORY.
The Treaty of Peace, in 1783, actually ended it, secnred the
independence of the United States and fixed her boundaries, roughly
speaking, as the Atlantic Ocean on the E., the Mississippi on the
W., New Brunswick, the St. Lawrence, and the Great Lakes on the
N., and the parallel of 31° on the S.
While the war was still raging, Congress had framed an instrnment
of government, which the States ratified and put m force on March 1st,
1781. This instrument of government which hound the thirteen States
in perpetual union was known as the Articles of Confederation,
and established a government as bad as any yet devised by man.
There was no executive, no judiciary, and only the semblance of
a legislature. The Congress consisted of not more than seven nor
less than two delegates from each State; sat in secret session; was
presided over by a President elected from its own members; and
could not pass any law unless the delegates of nine states assented.
It could wage war, make treaties, and borrow money ; but it could
not lay a tax of any kind whatsoever ; nor regulate commerce be-
tween the States, or with foreign powers; and was dependent
entirely on the liberality of the States for revenue. This defect
proved fatal. Inability to regulate foreign commerce by duties
stripped the country of its specie. Lack of specie forced the States
to issue paper money. Paper money was followed by tender acts and
force acts and, in some places, by a violent stoppage of justice by
the debtor class. A commercial and financial crisis followed and
the people of the States, reduced to desperation, gladly acceded to
a call for a national trade convention which met in Philadelphia in
May, 1787. The instructions of the delegates bade them suggest
amendments to the Articles of Confederation. But the convention,
considering the Articles too bad to be mended, framed the Con-
stitution which the people, acting through conventions in the vari-
ous states, ratified during 1787 and 1788.
On March 4th, 1789, the Constitution became the 'supreme law
of the land.' In the first congress no trace of party lines is visible.
But the work of establishing government had not gone far when
differences of opinion sprang up ; when the cry of partial legislation
was raised, and the people all over the country began to divide
into two great parties, — those who favoured and those who opposed
a liberal construction of the language of the Constitution and the
establishment of a strong national government. The friends of na-
tional government took the name of Federalists, and under the lead
of Alexander Hamilton who, as Secretary of the Treasury, marked
out the financial policy of the administration, they funded the foreign
and domestic debt occasioned by the war for independence , as-
sumed the debts incurred by the States in that struggle, set up a
national bank with branches, and laid a tax on distilled liquors.
Each one of these acts was met with violent opposition as designed
to benefit a class, as unconstitutional, and as highly detrimental
IX. HISTORY. xxxiii
to the interests of tlie South. Against the Federalists were now
brought charges of a leaning towards monarchy and aristocracy.
Great Britain it was said has a funded debt, a bank, and an excise.
These things are, therefore, monarchical institutions. But the
Federalists have introduced them into the United States. The Fed-
eralists, therefore, are aristocrats, monarchists, and monopolists.
Of all who believed these charges , none believed them more
sincerely than Thomas Jefferson, Secretary of State. Seeing in these
acts a wide departure from the true principles of democracy, he set
himself to work to organize a party of opposition, and was soon
looked up to as the recognized leader of the Federal Republicans.
Hardly had the two parties thus been called into existence by dif-
ference of opinion on questions of home affairs, when they were
parted yet more widely, and the dispute between them intensely
embittered by questions of foreign affairs. In 1793 the French
Republic declared war against England, and sent a minister to the
United States. As the United States was bound to France by the
Treaty of Alliance and by a Treaty of Amity and Commerce, and
was not bound to Great Britain by any commercial treaty whatever,
it seemed not unlikely that she would be dragged unwillingly into
the war. But Washington with the advice of his secretaries pro-
claimed neutrality, and from that time every Republican was the
firm friend of France and every Federalist the ally of England.
Then began a seven years' struggle for neutrality. France threw
open her colonial ports to neutral commerce. Great Britain assert-
ing the 'Rule of the War of 1756' , a rule prescribing that no
neutral should have, in time of war, a trade it did not have in
peace, declared this trade was contraband and seized the ships of
the United States engaged in it. The Republicans denounced neu-
trality and attempted to force a war. The Federalists in alarm dis-
patched John Jay, the Chief Justice, to London with offers of a
commercial treaty. England responded and on Feb. 29th, 1796,
the first treaty of Amity and Commerce between her and the United
States became law. At this France took offence, rejected the new min-
ister (C. C. Pinckney) from the United States, and drove him from
her soil; suspended the treaties, insulted a special commission (sent
out in the interest of peace), with demands for bribes and tribute,
and brought on a quasi-war. Never since the days of Bunker Hill
had the country been so stirred as this act of the French Directory
stirred it in the summer of 1798. Then was written our national
song 'Hail Columbia'. Then was established the department of the
Navy. Then, under the cry, 'Millions for defence; not a cent for
tribute', went forth that gallant little fleet which humbled the tri-
colour in the West Indies and brought France to her senses.
With the elevation of Napoleon to the First Consulship came
peace in 1800. -In that same year the Federalists fell from power
never to return. Once in power, the Republicans began to carry
Baedeker's United States. 4tt» Edit. C
xxxiv IX. HISTORY.
out the principles they had so long preached. They rednced the
National debt; they repealed the internal taxes. They sold the
Navy; boldly assanlted the Supreme Court; and in 1811, when the
Charter of the National Bank expired, refused to renew it. Their
doctrine of strict construction, however, was ruined, when, in
1803, they bought the Province of Louisiana from France and added
to the public domain that splendid region which lies between the
Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains. At that moment it seemed
as if the people were about to enter on a career of unwonted pros-
perity. But Napoleon suddenly made war on England, and by
1806 the United States was involved in a desperate struggle of nine
years both with France and England for commercial independence.
Great Britain searched our ships, impressed our sailors, violated
the neutrality of our ports, and by the decisions of her admiralty
courts and by orders in council sought to ruin our neutral com-
merce with Europe, unless carried on through her ports and under
her license. Napoleon attacked us with his decrees of Berlin and
Milan, and sought to ruin our neutral commerce with England.
The United States retaliated by means of the Embargo and Non-
intercourse, and, in 1812, by declared war.
With the cessation of hostilities another epoch in our history
begins. From the day when Washington proclaimed neutrality in
1793, to the day when the people celebrated, with bonfires and
with fireworks , and with public dinners , the return of peace in
1815, the political and industrial history of the United States is
deeply affected by the political history of Europe. It was questions
of foreign policy, not of domestic policy that divided the two parties,
that took up the time of Congress, that raised up and pulled down
politicians. But after 1815 foreign affairs sank into insignificance,
and for the next thirty years the history of the United States is the
history of the political and economic development of the country to
the E. of the Mississippi River.
The opposition which the Federalists made to the War com-
pleted their ruin. In 1816 for the last time they put forward a
presidential candidate, carried three states out of nineteen, and
expired in the effort. During the eight years of Monroe's adminis-
tration (1817-25) but one great and harmonious party ruled
the political destinies of the country. This remarkable period has
come down to us in history as the 'Era of good feeling'. It was
indeed such an era, and so good were the feelings that in 1820 when
Monroe was re-elected no competitor was named to run against him.
Every State, every electoral vote save one was his. Even that one
was his. But the elector who controlled it, threw it away on John
Quincy Adams lest Monroe should have the unanimous vote of the
Presidential electors, an honour which has been bestowed on no man
save Washington.
In the midst of this harmony, however, events were fast ripen-
IX. HISTORY. XXXV
ing for a great schism. Under the protection offered by the com-
mercial restrictions which hegan with the Emhargo and. ended with
the peace, manufactures had sprung up and flourished. If they
were to continue to flourish they must continue to he protected, and
the question of free trade and protection rose for the first time into
really national importance. The rush of population into the West
led to the admission of Indiana (1816), Mississippi (1817), Illinois
(1818), Alabama (1819), and Missouri (1820) into the Union, and
brought up for serious discussion the uses to be made of public
lands lying within them. The steamboat, which had been adopted
far and wide, had produced a demand for some improved means of
communication by land to join the great water highways of the
country and opened the era of internal improYements. The appli-
cation of Missouri for admission into the Union brought up the
question of the admission of slavery to the W. of the Mississippi.
A series of decisions of the Supreme Court, setting aside acts of the
State legislatures, gave new prominence to the question of State rights.
The Missouri question was settled by the famous Compromise
of 1820 (the first great political compromise) which drew the line
36° 30' from the Mississippi to the 100th Meridian, and pledged
all to the N. of it, save Missouri, to freedom. But the others were
not to be settled by compromise, and in the campaign of 1824 the
once harmonious Republican party was rent in pieces. Each of the
four quarters of the Republic put a candidate in the field and 'the
scrub-race for the presidency' began. The new manufacturing
interests of the East put forward John Quincy Adams. The West,
demanding internal improvements at public expense, had for its
candidate Henry Clay. William E. Crawford of Georgia (nomin-
ated by a caucus of congressmen) represented the old Republican
party of the South. Andrew Jackson of Tennessee stood for the new
Democracy, for the people, with all their hatred of monopolies and
class control, their prejudices, their half- formed notions, their violent
outbursts of feeling. Behind none of them was there an organized
party. But taking the name of 'Adams men' and 'Clay men', 'Craw-
ford men' and 'Jackson men', the friends of each entered the cam-
paign and lost it. No candidate secured a majority of the elec-
torial college, and the House of Representatives chose John Quincy
Adams.
Under the administration of Adams (1825-29) the men who
wished for protection and the men who wished for internal improve-
ments at Government expense united, took the name first of Na-
tional Republicans and then of Whigs, and, led on by Henry Clay
and Daniel Webster, carried through the high protection tariffs of
1828 and 1832. The friends of Jackson and Crawford took the
name of Democrats, won the election of 1829, and, during twelve
years, governed the country. In the course of these years the popu-
lation of the United States rose to 17,000,000, and the number of
xxxvi IX. fflSTORY.
states to twenty-six. Steam navigatioii began on the Ocean; two
thonsand miles of railroad were built in the land ; new inventions
came into use ; and the social and industrial life of the people was
completely revolutionized. The National debt was paid; a surplus
accumulated in the Treasury ; the sale of public lands rose from
$3,000,000 in 1831 to $25,000,000 in 1836; and the rage for in-
ternal improvements burned more fiercely than ever. A great finan-
cial panic spread over the country ; the Charter of the National Bank
expired ; a hundred 'wild-cat banks' sprang up to take its place ; and
the question of the abolition of slavery became troublesome.
On the great questions which grew out of this condition of
« affairs the position of the two parties was well defined. The Demo-
crats demanded a strict construction of the Constitution ; no inter-
nal improvements at public expense; a surrender of the public
lands to the state in which they lay ; no tariff for protection ; no
National Bank; no agitation of the question of abolition of slavery;
the establishment of sub - treasuries for the safe keeping of the
public funds, and the distribution of the surplus revenue. The
Whigs demanded a re-charter of the National Bank ; a tariff for pro-
tection; the expenditure of the surplus on internal improvements;
the distribution of the money derived from the sale of public lands ;
a limitation of the veto power of the President; and no removals
from office for political reasons.
The Democrats, true to their principles, and having the power,
carried them out. They destroyed the Bank ; they defeated bill after
bill for the construction of roads and canals; they distributed
$38,000,000 of the surplus revenue among the states, and, by the
cartage of immense sums of money from the East to the far distant
West, hastened that inevitable financial crisis known as the 'panic
of 1837'. Andrew Jackson had just been succeeded in the Presi-
dency by Martin Van Buren (1837-41) and on him the storm
burst in all its fury. But he stood it bravely, held to a strict con-
struction of the Constitution, insisted that the panic would right
itself without interference by the Government, and stoutly refused
to meddle. Since the refusal of Congress to re-charter the Bank of
the United States, whose charter expired in 1836, the revenue of
the Government had been deposited in certain 'pet banks' desig-
nated by the Secretary of the Treasury. Every one of them failed in
the panic of 1837. Yan Buren, therefore, recommended 'the divorce
of Bank and State', and after a struggle of three years his friends
carried the 'sub-treasury' scheme in 1840. This law cast off aU con-
nection between the State Banks and the Government, put the col-
lectors of the revenue under heavy bonds to keep the money safely
till called for by the Secretary of the Treasury, and limited payments
to or by the United States to specie.
The year 1840 was presidential year and is memorable for the
introduction of new political methods; for the rise of a new and
IX. HISTORY. xxxvil
vigorons party ; and for the appearance of a new political issue.
The new machinery consisted in the permanent introdnction of the
National Convention for the nomination of a president, now nsed by
the Democrats for the second time, and by the Whigs for the first ;
in the promnlgation of a party platform by the convention, now
nsed by the Democrats for the first time; and in the nse of mass
meetings, processions, songs, and all the paraphernalia of a modern
campaign by the Whigs. The new party was the Liberty Party and
the new issue the 'absolute and unqualified divorce of the General
Government from slavery, and the restoration of equality of rights
among men'. The principles of that party were : slavery is against
natural right, is strictly local, is a state institution, and derives no
support from the authority of Congress, which has no power to set
up or continue slavery anywhere; every treaty, every act, estab-
lishing, favouring, or continuing slavery in the District of Columbia,
in the territories, on the high seas is, therefore, unconstitutional.
The candidate of this party was James Gillespie Birney. The
Democrats nominated Martin Yan Buren. The Whigs put forward
William Henry Harrison and elected him. Harrison died one month
after his inauguration, and John Tyler, the Vice-President, and a
Democrat of the Calhoun wing became president. The Whig policy
as sketched by Clay was the repeal of the sub-treasury act; the
charter of a National Bank; a tariff for protection; and the dis-
tribution of the sales of public lands. To the repeal of the sub-
treasury act Tyler gladly assented. To the establishment of a bank
even when called 'Fiscal Corporation', he would not assent, and,
having twice vetoed such bills, was read out of the party by a
formal manifesto issued by Whig Congressmen. It mattered little,
however, for the question of the hour was not the bank, nor the
tariff, nor the distribution of the sales of lands, but the annexation
of the Republic of Texas. Joined to the demand for the re-occupation
of Oregon, it became the chief plank in the Democratic platform
of 1844. The Whig platform said not a word on the subject, and
the Liberty Party, turning with loathing from the cowardice of
Clay, voted again for Birney, gave the State of New York to the
Democrats, and with it the presidency. Accepting the result of the
election as an 'instruction from the people'. Congress passed the
needed act and Tyler in the last hours of his administration declared
Texas annexed.
The boundary of the new State was ill-defined. Texas claimed
to the Rio Grande. Mexico would probably have acknowledged the
Nueces River. The United States attempted to enforce the claim of
Texas, sent troops to the Rio Grande, and so brought on the Mexi-
can War. At its close the boundary of the United States was carried
to the S. from 42° to the Gila River, and what is now California,
Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, Utah, and more than half of Wyo-
ming and Colorado were added to fhe public domain. While the
xxxTiii IX. HISTORY.
wax was still raging, Polk, wlio had succeeded Tyler, asked for
$2,000,000 to aid him in negotiating peace. WeU knowing that
the money was to he used to hny land from Mexico, David Wilmot
moved in the House of Representatives that from all territory honght
with the money slavery shonld he exclnded. This was the famous
Wilmot proviso. It failed of adoption and the territory was acquired
in 1848, with its character as to slavery or freedom wholly un-
determined.
And now the old parties began to break up. Democrats who
believed in the Wilmot proviso, and Whigs who detested the annex-
ation of Texas, the war with Mexico, and the extension of slavery
went over in a body to the Liberty Party, formed with it the 'Free-
soil Party', nominated Martin VanBuren, and gave him 300,000 votes.
In their platform they declared that Congress had no more power
to make a slave than to make a king ; that they accepted the issue
thrust on them by the South; that to the demand for more slave
states and more slave territories they answered, no more slave
states, no more slave territories; and that on their banner was in-
scribed 'Free Soil, Free Speech, Free Labor, and Free Men'. As the
defection of Whigs to the Liberty Party in 1844 gave New York
State to the Democrats and elected Polk, so the defection of Demo-
crats to the Free Soilers in 1848 gave New York to the Whigs and
elected Taylor. As Harrison, the first Whig President, died one
month after taking office, so Taylor, the second. Whig President,
died suddenly when a little over one year in office, just as the great
Whig Compromise of 1850 was closing. The imperative need of
civil government ra the new territory, the discovery of gold in Cali-
fornia, the rush of men from all parts of the earth to the Pacific
Coast forced Congress to establish organized territories. The question
was: shall they be opened or closed to slavery? But, as the soil had
been free when acquired from Mexico, the question really was: shall
the United States establish slavery? The Democrats, holding that
slaves were property, claimed the right to take them into any terri-
tory, and asserting the principle of 'squatter sovereignty', claimed
the right of the people living in any territory to settle for themselves
whether it should be slave or free. The Free SoUers demanded that
the soil having been free when a part of Mexico should be free as a
part of the United States. Between these two Clay now stepped in
to act as pacificator. Taking up the grievances of each side, he
framed and carried through the measure known as the Compromise
of 1850, the third great political Compromise in our history. The
fruit of this was the admission of California, as a free state; the
passage of a more stringent law for the recovery of fugitive slaves ;
the abolition of the slave trade in the District of Columbia ; and the
organization of Utah and New Mexico on the basis of 'squatter
sovereignty'. This done, Senators and Representatives of all parties
joined in a manifesto, declaring that the issues resting on slavery
IX. HISTORY. xxxix
were dead issues, and that they wonld neither vote for, nor work
for any man who thought otherwise. But thousands did think other-
wise. The action of Clay pleased none. Anti-slavery men deserted
him in the North ; pro-slavery men deserted him in the South ; and
in 1852 the Whig party carried hut four states out of thirty-one and
perished. Even its two great leaders Clay and "Webster were, by that
time, in their graves.
Excited by such success, the Democrats, led on by Stephen A.
Douglas, now broke through the compromise of 1820 and in
1854 applied 'squatter sovereignty' to the organization of the terri-
tories of Kansas and Nebraska. Against this violation State legis-
latures, the people, the pulpit, and the press protested vigorously,
for every acre of Kansas and Nebraska lay to the N. of 36° 30' and
was solemnly pledged to freedom. But the Democratic leaders would
not listen and drove from their ranks another detachment of voters.
The effect was soon manifest. The little parties began to unite and
when, in 1856, the time came to elect another President, the Repub-
lican party of to-day was fully organized and ready. Once more and
for the last time for 28 years the Democrats won. The administra-
tion of James Buchanan (1857-61J marks an epoch. The question
before the country was that of the extension of slavery into the new
territories. Hardly had he been inaugurated, when the Supreme Court
handed down a decision on the case of Dred Scott, which denied the
right of Congress to legislate on slavery, set aside the compromises
of 1820 and 1850 as unconstitutional, and opened all the territories
to slavery. From that moment the "Whig and Democratic parties began
to break up rapidly till, when 1860 came, four parties and four pre-
sidential candidates were in the field. The Democratic party, having
finally split at the National Convention for nominating a president
and vice-president, the southern wing put forward BrecTcenridge and^
Lane and demanded that Congress should protect slavery in the terri-
tories. The northern wing nomina-ted Stephen A. Douglas and declared
for squatter sovereignty and the Compromise of 1850. A third party,
taking the name of 'Constitutional Union', declared for the Constitution
and the Union at any price and no agitation of slavery, nominated
Bell and Everett, and drew the support of the old "Whigs of the Clay
and Webster school. The Republicans, declaring that Congress
should prohibit slavery in the territories, nominated Abraham Lincoln
and Hannibal Hamlin and won the election.
The State of South Carolina immediately seceded and before the
end of Feb., 1861, was followed by Georgia, Florida, Alabama,
Mississippi, Louisiana, and Texas. Taking the name of the Confederate
States of America, they formed first a temporary and then a perman-
ent government, elected Jefferson Davis President, raised an army
and besieged Fort Sumter in Charleston Harbour. The attempt to
relieve the fort brought on the bombardment and surrender (April
19th, 1861). The Confederate States were now joined by Virginia'
xl TX. HISTORY
North Carolina, Arkansas, and Tennessee. Richmond was made the
capital, and the Civil "War opened in earnest.
The line of separation between the States then became the
Potomac River, the Ohio River, and a line across S. Missouri and
Indian Territory to New Mexico. Along this line the troops of the
Union were drawn up in many places under many commanders
Yet there were in the main but three great armies. That of the E.
or Potomac under Gen. McClellan ; that of the centre or the Ohio
under Gen. Buell; that of the W. or Missouri under Gen. Halleck.
In command of all as Lieutenant- General was Winfield Scott
Confronting them were the troops of the Confederacy, drawn up in
three corresponding armies : that of N. Yirginia under Johnston and
Lee, that of the Cumberland under Albert Sidney Johnston, and that
of the trans-Mississippi under McCulloch and Price.
Yielding to the demand of the North for the capture of Rich-
mond before the Confederate congress could meet there (July
20th, 1861), McDowell went forth vnth thirty-eight thousand three-
months volunteers to the ever memorable field of Bull Run (p. 569).
But the serious campaigning did not begin until Jan. , 1862. Then
the whole line west of the Alleghenies (made up of the armies of
Ohio and the Missouri), turning on Pittsburg as a centre, swept
southward, captured Forts Henry and Donelson, defeated the Con-
federates at ShUoh (p. 579), captured Corinth (p. 579), took Is-
land No. 10 (p. 430), and drove them from Fort Pillow. Meantime
Farragut entered the Mississippi from the Gulf (see p. 632), passed
Forts Jackson and St. Philip, captured New Orleans, and sent
Commodore Davis up the river to take Memphis. Memphis fell
June 6th, 1862, and, save for Vicksburg, the Mississippi was open
to navigation. When the year closed, the Confederates had been
driven to the E. into the mountains of Tennessee, where (Dec. 31st,
1862-Jan. 2nd, 1863) was fought the desperate and bloody battle
of Murfreesboro' (p. 579). The Union troops won, and the Con-
federate army fell back to Chattanooga (p. 578).
With the Army of the Potomac meantime all had gone ill. The
affair at Bull Run in July, 1861, had been followed by the transfer
of the army to McClellan. But MeCleUan wasted time, wore out
the patience of the North, and forced Lincoln to issue General
Order No. 1 for a forward movement of all the armies on Feb. 22nd,
1862. Obedient to this McClellan began his 'Peninsula Campaign'
against Richmond, was out-generaled by Lee, and was superseded by
Pope. In the second battle of Bull Run (p. 569) Pope suffered so
crushing a defeat that Lee ventured to cross the Potomac, enter
Maryland, and encounter McClellan (who had been re-appointed)
on the field of Antietam (p. 596). In that battle Lee was beaten and
fled across the Potomac, But McClellan failed to follow up the victory
and was removed, the command of the Army of the Potomac passing
to Bur7isid€. Burnside led it across the Potomac and the Rappahan-
IX. HISTORY. xli
nock and on Dec. 13th, 1862, lost the battle of Fredericksburg (p. 555)
For this he was replaced by Hooker^ who, May 2nd-4th, 1863, fongh.
and lost the battle of Chancellorsvllle (p. 555). Lee now again took
the offensive, crossed the Potomac, entered Pennsylvania, and at
Gettysburg met the Army of the Potomac nnder Meade [p. 193). On
that field was fought the decisive battle of the war. Then (July
lst-4th, 1863) the backbone of the Confederacy was broken, and
the two armies returned to their old positions in Yirginia.
While Meade was beating Lee at Gettysburg, Orant captured
Vicksburg [July lst-3rd, 1863; see p. 587). For this he was sent to
command the army of Bosecrans^ then besieged by Bragg at Chat-
tanooga (p. 578). Again success attended him and, in Nov., he
stormed Lookout Mountain, defeated Bragg in the famous 'Battle
above the Clouds' (p. 578), and drove him in disorder through the
mountains. For these signal victories he was raised to the rank of
Lieutenant- General [in 1864) and placed in command of the Armies
of the United States.
That year is memorable for the great march of Sherman to the
E. from Chattanooga to the sea (p. 609), for the victories of Sheri-
dan in the VaUey of the Shenandoah [p. 597) , for the Wilderness
Campaign of Grant [p. 555), the shutting up of Lee in Richmond, and
by the re-election of Lincoln. His competitor was General McClellan,
whom the northern Democrats put foward on the platform that the
war was a failure and that peace should be made with the South. In
the spring of 1865 came the retreat of Lee from Richmond, and on
April 9th, his surrender at Appomattox Court House [p. 564). On
April 14th, 1865, Lincoln was assassinated [p. 225), and Andrew
Johnson became President.
With the succession of Johnson the era of Reconstruction, polit-
ical and social, begins. The outcome of political reconstruction
was the 13th, 14th, and 15th amendments to the Constitution of the
United States, the impeachment of Andrew Johnson, and a long list
of acts to protect and assist the Freedmen of the South. The out-
come of social reconstruction was the rise of the Ku Klux Klan, the
passage and use of the Force Act, and the dreadful condition of af-
fairs which ruined the South for a decade.
In the North the effect of such measures was to split the Repub-
lican party and put seven Presidential candidates in the field in
1872. One represented the Temperance party ; another the Labour
party, denouncing Chinese labour and the non-taxation of Govern-
ment land ; a third was the Liberal Republican, demanding union,
amnesty, and civil rights, accusing Grant of packing the Supreme
Court in the interests of corporations, and calling for a repeal of
the Ku Klux Laws. The Liberal Republicans having chosen Horace
Greeley as their candidate, the Democrats accepted and endorsed
him. But he pleased neither party and the discontented Liberals
and the discontented Democrats each chose a candidate of their
xlii IX. fflSTORY.
own. The Republicans nominated Grant and elected Mm. His
second term (1873-77) was the nadir of onr politics, both State
and National, and ended with the disputed election and the rise
of the Independent or 'GTreenback Party', demanding the repeal of
the Act for the resumption of specie payments and the issue of
United States 'greenback' notes, convertible into bonds, as the cur-
rency of the country. Double returns and doubtful returns from
the S. States put the votes of thirteen electors in dispute. As the
House was Democratic and the Senate Republican, the joint rule
under which the Electoral votes had been counted since 1865 could
not be adopted. A compromise was necessary and on Jan. 29th,
1877, the Electoral Commission of five Senators, five Representatives,
and five Judges of the Supreme Court was created to decide on the
doubtful returns. Of the fifteen eight were Republicans and seven
Democrats, and by a strict party vote the thirteen Electoral votes were
given to the Republicans and Rutherford B. Hayes declared elected.
The memorable events of his term f 1877-81) were the resump-
tion of specie payments on Jan. 1st, 1879; the passage of the Bland
Silver Bill, restoring the silver dollar to the list of coins, making it
legal tender, and providing for the coinage of not less than 2,000,000
nor more than 4,000,000 each month; and the rapid growth of the
National or Greenback-Labour party. Hayes was followed in 1881
by James A. Garfield, whose contest with the Senators from New
York over the distribution of patronage led to his assassination by
the hand of a crazy applicant for office. Chester A. Arthur then be-
came President, was followed in 1885 by Grover Cleveland, who was
succeeded in 1889 by Benjamin, Harrison, who was in turn succeed-
ed in 1893 by Grover Cleveland. In 1897 William McKinley became
President, and his first period of office was signalized by a war with
Spain (1898) and the advent of the United States as a Colonial
Power. McKinley was re-elected in 1901 but was soon after assas-
sinated by an anarchist, thus making way for the vice-president,
Theodore Roosevelt. Among the chief events during the first term
of Theodore Roosevelt were the recognition by the United States of
the newly created Republic of Panama (Nov., 1903), the consequent
construction of the Panama Canal , and the holding of the Louisiana
Purchase Exposition at St. Louis in 1904, to commemorate the great
extension of territory mentioned at p. xxxiv. Roosevelt was elected
for a second term in 1904. Among its chief events were the Treaty
of Peace between Russia and Japan in 1905 [see p. 284) and the
great earthquake and fire at San Francisco in 1906 (p. 511). In
1909 Roosevelt was succeeded by William Taft.
IX. HISTORY.
xllil
States and Territories of the United States.
States . Area in sq. M. Pop . in 1900
1. Alabama (Ala.) . 51,540 1,828,697
2. Arkansas (Ark.). 53,045 1,311,564
3. CaUfornia (Cal.). 156,172 1,485,053
4. Colorado (Colo.) 103,645 539,700
5. Connecticut (Ct.) 4,845 908,420
6. Delaware (Del.)- 1,960 184,735
7. Florida (Fla.) . . 54,240 528,542
8. Georgia (Ga.) . . 58,980 2,216,331
9. Idaho (Idaho) . . 84,290 161,772
10. Illinois (111.) . . 56,000 4,821,550
11. Indiana (Ind.). . 35,910 2,516,462
12. Iowa (la.) . . . 55,475 2,231,853
13. Kansas (Kan.). . 81,700 1,470,495
14. Kentucky (Ky.) . 40,000 2,147,174
15. Louisiana (La.) . 45,420 1,381,625
16. Maine (Me.) . . . 29,895 694,466
17. Maryland (Md.) . 9,860 1,188,044
18. Massachusetts
(Mass.) .... 8,040 2,805,346
19. Michigan (Mich.) 57,430 2,420,982
20. Minnesota (Minn.) 79,205 1,751,394
21. Mississippi (Miss.) 46,340 1,551,270
22. Missouri (Mo.) . 68,735 3,106,665
23. Montana (Mont.). 145,310 243,329
24. Nebraska (Neb.). 76,840 1,066,300
25. Nevada (Nev.) . 109,740 42,335
26. New Hampshire
(N.H.) . . . . 9,005 411,588
27. New Jersey (N.J.) 7,525 1,883,669
28. New York (N. Y.) 47,620 7,268,894
29. North Carolina
(N. C.) . . . . 48,580 1,893,810
30. North Dakota
(N. D.) . . . . 70,195 319,146
States. Area in sq. M.
. 40,760
) 69,830
. 94,560
Ohio (0.) . . .
Oklahoma (Okla
Oregon (Ore.).
Pennsylvania
(Pa.) ....
Rhode Island
(11.1.) . . .
South Carolina
(S.C). . . .
South Dakota
(S.D.) . . .
Tennessee (Tenn.
Texas (Tex.) .
Utah (Utah.) .
Vermont (Vt.)
Virginia (Va.)
Washington
(Wash.) . .
West Virginia
(W.Va.) . .
Wisconsin (Wis
Wyoming (Wyo
Teekitobies.
44,985
1,053
30,170
. 76,850
,) 41,750
. 262,290
. 82,190
. 9,135
. 40,125
Pop. in 1900
4,157,545
790,391
413,536
6,302,115
428,556
1,340,816
401,570
2,020,616
3,048,710
276,749
343,641
1,854,148
. 66,880 518,103
. 24,645
) 54,450
) 97,575
Arizona (Ariz.) . . . 112,920
New Mexico (N. Mex.) 122,460
958,800
2,069,042
92,531
122,931
195,310
District of Columbia
(DC.) 69 278,718
Alaska 590,884 63,592
Hawaii. . . . . . . 6,449 154,001
Total: 3,567,572 76,212,132
The total population in 1908 was estimated at about 85,000,000.
Presidents of the United States.
1. George Washington 1789-97.
2. John Adams 1797-1801.
3. Thomas Jefiferson 1801-09.
4. James Madison 1809-17.
5. James Monroe 1817-25.
6. John Quincy Adams 1825-29.
7. Andrew Jackson 1829-37.
8. Martin Van Buren 1837-41.
9. William H. Harrison 1841.
10. John Tyler 1841-45.
11. James K. Polk 1845-49.
12. Zachary Taylor 1849-50.
13. Millard Fillmore 1850-53.
14. Franklin Pierce 1853-57.
15. James Buchanan 1857-61.
16. Abraham Lincoln 1861-65.
17. Andrew Johnson 1865-69.
18. Ulysses S. Grant 1869-77.
19. Rutherford B. Hayes 1877-81.
20. James A. Garfield 1881.
21. Chester A. Arthur 1881-85.
22. Grover Cleveland 1885-89.
23. Benjamin Harrison 1889-93.
24. Grover Cleveland 1893-97.
25. William McKinley 1897-1901.
26. Theodore Roosevelt 1901-9.
27. WilUam Taft 1909.
xliv X. CONSTITUTION
X. Constitution and Government of the United States,
by James Bryce,
Author of 'The American Commonwealth''
The United States form a Federal Republic — that is to say, a Re-
public created by the union of a number of separate commonwealths,
each of which retains some powers of government though it has
yielded others to the Federation as a whole. The circumstances
under which this Union took place have been already described in
the historical sketch. It was established by the adoption of an in-
strument called the Constitution drafted by a Convention which met
at Philadelphia in 1787, accepted and ratified by the (then 13)
States in the years 1788-91. The Constitution prescribes (1) the
structure of the Federal Government and the respective functions of
its several parts, (2) the powers of the Federal Government and
restrictions imposed upon it, (3) the relations of the Federal Govern-
ment to the States and of the States to one another, (4) certain restric-
tions imposed upon the States. It does not specify the powers of the
States, because these are assumed as pre-existing; the States when
they created the Federal Government having retained for themselves
most of the powers which they previously enjoyed.
The Constitution is the supreme law of the land, binding every-
where upon all authorities and persons. It can be altered in either
of two ways: (a) The Federal Legislature may by a two-thirds vote
in each of the two Houses prepare amendments and send them to
the States. If ratified by the State Legislatures or by Conventions
{i.e. assemblies elected by the people for the purpose) in three-
fourths of the States, they take effect and become part of the Con-
stitution, (b) The legislatures of two-thirds of the States may re-
quire the Federal Legislature to call a Constitutional Convention to
prepare amendments to the Constitution. These amendments when
ratified by three-fourths of the State Legislatures or State Conventions
(as the case may be), take effect as parts of the Constitution. Fifteen
amendments have been actually made, all drafted by the Federal
Legislature and ratified by the State Legislatures. As the States
created the Federation and as they still exercise most of the ordinary
functions of government, it is convenient to describe them first.
The States and their Government. There are now 46 States in
the Union. Although differing very greatly in size, population, and
character, they have all of them the same frame of government. In
all of them this frame is regulated by a constitution which each
State has enacted for itself and which, being the direct expression of
the popular will, is the supreme law of the State, binding all author-
ities and persons therein. Such a constitution always contains a
so-called Bill of Rights, declaring the general principles of the gov-
ernment and the primordial rights of the citizen, and usually con-
tains also a great number of administrative and financial regulations
AND GOVERNMENT xIy
belonging to the sphere of ordinary law. The habit has grown up
of late years of dealing, by means of these instruments, with most
of the current questions on which public opinion calls for legislation.
These constitutions are often changed by amendments which (in most
States) are passed by the Legislature by certain prescribed majorities
and then submitted to the vote of the people. When it is desired
to make an entirely new constitution, a special body called a Con-
vention is elected for the purpose, and the instrument drafted by it
is almost invariably submitted to the people to be voted upon.
State Governments. The Legislature. In every State the Legis-
lature consists of two bodies, both alike elected by the people, though
in districts of different sizes. The smaller body (whose members
are elected in the larger districts) is called the Senate and varies in
number from 9 to 51. The larger body is usually called the As-
sembly or House of Representatives and varies in number from
21 to 321. The suffrage has now everywhere been extended to all
adult males who have resided in a certain (usually a short) period
within the State. In three States (Wyoming, Colorado, and Utah) it
is enjoyed by women also and in several women vote at municipal
or school committee elections. The Senate is usually elected for four
years — sometimes, however, for three, two, or even one. The House
is usually elected for two years. Both Houses have similar powers,
save that in most States Money Bills must originate in the House of
Representatives. The powers of these Legislatures are limited, and
in the case of the newer constitutions very strictly limited, by the
State Constitution. If they pass any statute contravening its provisions,
or infringing any of the restrictions it has imposed, such a statute is
void. All members of State Legislatures are paid, usually at the rate
of about $ 5 a day. They are generally required by law and almost
invariably required by custom to be resident in the district from
which they are chosen.
These legislative bodies are not greatly respected, nor is a seat
in them greatly desired by the better class of citizens. In a few
States, such as New York, Pennsylvania, and Louisiana, there is a
pretty large proportion of corrupt members.
The State Executive. In every State the head of the Executive is the
Governor, elected by popular vote for a term of (rarely one) usually
two, three, or even four years. He receives a salary of from $ 1000
to $ 10,000. He is responsible for the execution of the laws and
the maintenance of order in the State, whose militia he commands.
He has, except in four States, the right to veto any bill passed by
the Legislature, but the bill may be re-passed over his veto by a
majority (usually two-thirds) in both Houses. He is assisted by
a Secretary of State and several other officials, who, however, are
not named by him but elected directly by the people.
The State Judiciary. In eight States the Judges are appointed
by the governor ; in all the rest they are elected either by the people
xlvi X. CONSTITUTION
or (in five States) by the State Legislatore for terms varying, for the
Superior judges, from two to twenty-one years, eight to ten years being
the average. In fonr, however, they hold for life. Their salaries
range from $2000 to $ 10,000 per annum, but in most states do not
exceed $ 5000. Such salaries, coupled with the uncertainty of re-
election, have been found too small to attract the best legal talent,
and complaints are often made that the Bench is not as strong as
the Bar which practises before it. Corruption, however, is rare,
especially among the judges of the higher courts. There have not
been more than three or four States in which it has been proved to
exist, and in some of these it does not exist now. It is, of course,
the function of the Courts to determine, when a case comes before
them, the validity or invalidity of a State Statute which is alleged to
transgress any provision of the State Constitution. Very frequently
they are obliged to declare such statutes to be unconstitutional ; and
in this way the Legislature is effectively restrained from destroying
the securities which the Constitution provides.
Local Government^ Rural and Urban. The organization of local
government is within the province of State Legislation and there are
many differences between the systems in force in different States.
As regards the cities (the term applied in America to any muni-
cipality), the scheme of government is usually as follows.
There is always a Mayor, the head of the executive, elected for
one, two, or three years, receiving a substantial salary, and charged
with the maintenance of order and general oversight of municipal
affairs. There is always a legislature, consisting either of one or
of two representative bodies elected for short terms, generally in
wards, and (in most cases) receiving salaries. The other officials,
including the police justices and local civil judges, are either elect-
ed by the people or appointed by the Mayor, with or without the
concurrence of the Legislature. The tendency of late years has been
to vest larger and larger powers in the Mayor. In some cities there
is a distinct board of Police Commissioners (sometimes appointed
by the State), and in most the management of the Public Schools
is kept distinct from the rest of the municipal government and given
to a separately elected School Committee.
As regards Rural Government, two systems may be distinguished,
in the one of which the township, in the other the county, is the
administrative unit.
The township, called in the New England States the Town, is a
small district corresponding roughly to the Commune of France, or
the Gemeinde of Germany. Its area is in the Western States usu-
ally 36 sq. M. and its average population from 500 to 2000. Its in-
habitants choose annually a small number (usually six or seven) of
officials, who manage all local affairs, roads, police, poor relief, and
(in some States) sanitary matters, collect local taxes for these pur-
poses, and also choose one or more local justices. In the New
AND GOVERNMENT. xlvii
England States and in most parts of the West the inhabitants are
accustomed to meet at least once in spring, in some places several
times a year, to leceive the reports of their officers, vote the taxes,
and pass resolutions upon any other business that may be brought
before them. This gathering is called the Town Meeting. Schools
are usually managed by a separate School Committee, but sometimes
by the township officers.
Above the township stands the county, whose area averages (in
the Western States) 5-600 sq. M. In the older States it is usually
smaller. Its business is administered by a board of (usually) three to
five persons, elected annually and receiving small salaries. The
county has charge of prisons, lunatic asylums, main roads, and in
some States of the alms-houses provided for relief of the poor. In
other States this function is left to the townships, which administer
a little out-door relief. Pauperism is not a serious evil except in
the large cities; in most rural districts it scarcely exists.
This Township and County System prevails over all the Northern
and Middle States and is on the whole purely and efficiently ad-
ministered.
In the other parts of the Union, i.e. in all or nearly all of the
former Slave States, there are no townships ; the unit of government
is the county, to whose yearly elected officers all local business
whatever is intrusted. The Southern counties are generally some-
what larger but not more populous than those of the Northern States.
Local government is altogether less developed and less perfectly
vitalized in this part of the country, but within the last thirty years
sensible progress has been made — least, of course, in the dis-
tricts where the coloured population is largest, such as Louisiana,
Mississippi, and South Carolina. Townships are beginning to appear in
some States and the growth of education makes the School Districts
and Committees an important factor in giving the people interest in
local affairs.
The Americans are as a rule well satisfied with their system of
rural local government, which in many respects might serve as a
model to Europe, being more free and popular than that of Germany
or France or Italy, more complete than that of England. With their
municipal government on the other hand the liveliest discontent
exists. The larger cities especially have in most cases fallen into
the hands of unscrupulous gangs of adventurers, commonly known
as Rings, who monopolize the offices and emoluments, job the con-
tracts for public works, incur large debts for the city, and in some
few cases enrich themselves by plundering the public fonds, while
occasionally securing impunity by placing their creatures and
dependents in judicial posts.
Many attempts have been made to bring about reforms by chang-
ing the frame of municipal government, but so far no great success
has been attained. The root of the evil seems to lie partly in the
xlviii X. CONSTITUTION
presence in tliese great cities of a vast multitude of ignorant voters
— mostly recent immigrants from Europe — who, since they pay
little or no direct taxation, have no interest in economy ; and partly
in the indifference of the better class of citizens, who are apt to
neglect the duty of voting at municipal elections, or when they do
vote condone the faults of a Ring which professes to belong to their
own political party. The smaller cities, down to those with a popu-
lation of from 8000 to 10,000, present similar though less glaring
faults 5 and on the whole it may be said that municipal government
is the one conspicuous failure of American democracy.
Distribution of Powers between the States and the Federal Govern-
ment. When the people of the United States created the Federal
Government by the adoption of the Constitution, the States retained
in their own hands all power, authority, and jurisdiction which was
not delegated to the Federal Government. Accordingly the field of
State action remains not only wide but undefined. It includes the
maintenance of law and order within the State, control of the State
militia and police, the organization of local government both urban
and rural. The whole field of ordinary law as well civil as criminal,
comprising the law of marriage and other family relations, of prop-
erty and inheritance, of contracts and torts, of offences at common
law or otherwise, is within the scope oi State legislation. So also
is the law relating to trade within the State, including the law of
corporations and the regulation of railways and canals, as well as
the control of education, charities, the care of the poor, and matters
pertaining to religion. The State courts have of course a jurisdic-
tion commensurate with the sphere of State legislation; i.e. they try
all causes arising under State law and punish all offences against
it. The State has also an unlimited power of taxing all persons
and property (except as hereinafter mentioned) within its area, of
borrowing money, and of applying its funds as it pleases.
The powers and jurisdiction of the Federal Government on the
other hand are restricted, being those, and no others, which have
been either expressly or by implication conferred upon it by the
Federal Constitution. They therefore admit of being specified and
are the following.
Control of the Conduct of War. Post Offices and Post Roads.
Relations with Foreign States. Patents and Copyright.
Offences against International Law. Duties of Custom and Excise.
Army and Navy. Coinage and Currency ; Weights and
Commerce with other Countries and Measures.
between the States. Naturalization;
with the power of imposing and inflicting penalties for offences connected
with the matters foregoing.
On all these subjects the Federal Legislature has the exclusive
right of legislating, and the Federal Executive and Judiciary have,
of course, the right and duty of enforcing such legislation. There are
also a few subjects, including bankruptcy, which the Federal Legis-
lature may deal with, but which, if left untouched by Federal
AND GOVERNMENT. xlix
Statutes , State legislation may regulate. There was at one time a
miiform Federal bankrupt law; at present there is none, and the
matter is regulated by each State in its own way.
Besides this allotment and division of power, the Constitution
imposes certain restrictions both on the Federal Government and
on the State Governments. The former is disabled from suspending
the writ of habeas corpus or passing an ex post facto law, from
abridging the freedom of speech or of the press, or the right of
bearing arms, from making certain changes in legal procedure, from
giving any commercial preference to any particular State, from estab-
lishing or prohibiting any religion. Each State, on the other hand,
is restrained from making any treaty or taking other international
action; from coining money or making anything but gold or silver
coin legal tender; passing any ex post facto law or law impairing the
obligation of contracts; setting up any bat a republican form of Gov-
ernment; maintaining slavery; denying the right of voting in respect
of race, colour, or previous condition of servitude ; abridging the priv-
ileges of a U. S. citizen or denying to any person within its juris-
diction the equal protection of the laws ; depriving any person of life,
liberty, or property without due process of law. Neither can any
State, except with the consent of the Federal Legislature, impose any
duty on exports or imports, or keep ships of war or troops (except
its own militia) in time of peace.
Where there is a doubt as to whether a particular power is
possessed by one or other authority, the legal presumption is in
favour of its being possessed by a State, because the original States
were all of them self-governing commonwealths with a general power
over their citizens ; while the legal presumption is against the Federal
Government, because the powers it has received have been enumerat-
ed in the Federal Constitution. However it is not deemed necessary
that these powers should have been all expressly mentioned. It is
sufficient if they arise by necessary inference.
Structure of the Federal Government. The Federal Government
consists of three departments or organs, which the Constitution has
endeavoured to keep distinct: viz., the Legislature, the Executive, and
the Judiciary. The powers of these three extend over every part of
the country alike, but of course touch those matters only which lie
within the purview and competence of the Federal Government.
The Legislature. The Federal Legislature, called Congress, consists
of two chambers — the Senate and the House of Representatives. The
Senate is composed of two persons from each State : i.e., at present
of 92 persons, and is presided over by the Vice-President (salary,
$12,000) of the United States. Senators are chosen in each State by
the legislature thereof, a circumstance which has largely contributed
to cause those bodies themselves to be elected on the lines of the great
national parties. Each senator sits for six years, and one-third of the
body go out of office every two years, being of course re-eligible. The
Baedeker's United States. 4th Edit. d
1 X. CONSTITUTION
Senate, besides its legislative powers, which are equal to those of the
House (except in one point, viz. : that Money Bills must originate in
the House), has also two important executive powers. One of these is
the right of approving or rejecting nominations to office made by the
President, a right which is freely exercised except as regards Cabinet
offices, which custom leaves entirely within the President's discre-
tion. The other is the power of approving treaties, which must be
submitted by the President to the Senate and are not valid until
ratified by amajority of two-thirds of the Senators present. The Senate
has also the judicial power of sitting as a High Court to try impeach-
ments preferred by the House of Representatives against the President
or any other of the great officials, including the Federal Judges. When
the Senate sits in this capacity the Chief Justice of the United States
presides. A majority of two-thirds is required for conviction. Andrew
Johnson is the only President who has ever been impeached (1867),
and in his case the requisite majority was not obtained.
The post of Senator, being dignified, powerful, and comparatively
permanent, is much sought after and is indeed the chief object of
ambition to successful members of Congress or pushing State politi-
cians. It is these attractions rather than the method of indirect elec-
tion by the State legislatures, which have drawn so much political
ability into the Senate. At present many of the Senators are men of
great wealth and some of them are accused of having made their way
into it chiefly by their wealth, the State legislatures being not infre-
quently open to this kind of influence. It has often been proposed
to vest the election directly in the people of each State, and probably
this would be a better method than the present. Although the States
differ vastly in size and importance, the Senators from the small States
exert as much influence as those from the greatest, being indeed
often superior in ability to the latter.
The House of Representatives consists at present of 391 persons
elected by districts of nearly equal size, the boundaries of the dis-
tricts being in each State determined by State legislation. The mem-
bers are elected for two years, elections being always held in the
November of a year bearing an even number; e.g. 1900, 1904, 1908.
Members are almost invariably chosen from the district in which
they reside. Like the Senators, they receive a salary of $ 7500 a year,
besides mileage (travelling expenses). They are (especially in the
North and West) less frequently re-elected than is the case with
Senators; and it generally happens that about one-half of the members
of each House have not sat in the preceding House. Usually more than
half of the members belong to the legal profession, though many of
these do not practise law. Although elected in November, a new House
does not come into existence till the 4th March following and is sel-
dom summoned by the President to meet until the December of the
same year. The first function of a House is to choose its Speaker (salary,
$ 12,000), who always belongs to the majority and is permitted to use
AND GOVERNMENT. li
all the functions of the Chair in the interests of his party. Having a
large control over the condnct of business and the function of nom-
inating all the committees of the House and assigning to each its chair-
man, his power is very great. All hills are referred after second reading,
which is given as a matter of course, to one of the standing committees,
of which there are usually at least fifty, each of from 3 to 16 members,
and if reported hack by the committee is considered in committee of
the whole House when time can be found for the purpose. As the
number of bills brought into each Congress now reaches or exceeds
twenty thousand, many are not reported back, and a great many more
are never taken up, or if taken up are not completed, by the House.
The chairmanships of the chief committees such as those on "Ways and
Means, Appropriations, Rivers and Harbours, Foreign Relations, and
Judiciary, are important posts which carry great influence and are
much desired by leading men. There are also a considerable number
of select committees appointed from time to time to deal with special
questions. (A similar system of Committees prevails in the Senate,
where, however, the Committees are appointed not by the presiding
officer but by the Senate itself.) The House has a power of closing
its debates and coming to a division by voting the 'previous question',
and uses this power freely. In the Senate no similar power exists.
In each body the presence of one-half of the total number is re-
quired to make a quorum.
Both the Senate and the House have the power of holding secret
sessions ; and this power is frequently exercised by the former, espe-
cially when the confirmation of appointments is under consideration.
Although Congress attempts much, it accomplishes comparatively
little. The opportunities for delaying business are manifold; there is
little recognized leadership, and therefore many cross-currents ; the
two Houses often differ, throwing out or amending in material points
one another's bills. In these conflicts the Senate more often prevails
than the House does, because it is a smaller and on the whole a better
organized body. There is little direct corruption in either House, but
a good deal of demagogism and of what is called 'log-rolling', this
form of evil being extended by the enormous number of bills relating
to particular persons, places, or undertakings, which are promoted in
the interests of private individuals and are pushed by the misceUaneons
crowd of unrecognized agents called the 'Lobby'. In each House each
of the great parties is in the habit of holding from time to time party
meetings to determine its policy in the House, and the decisions of
the majority at such meetings are deemed binding on the members
and usually obeyed. This is called 'going into caucus'.
The Executive. The President of the United States is chosen by
persons who are elected in each State for that purpose and that purpose
only. In every State the voters (i.e. the same voters as those who elect
members of Congress) elect on the Tuesday after the flrst Monday in
November every fourth year a number of Presidential electors equal to
d*
lii X. CONSTITUTION
the total representation of the State in Congress (i.e. two Senators plu8
so many members of the House of Representatives). Thus New York
has 39 Presidential Electors, Pennsylvania 34, Delaware and five other
small States only three each. These Electors meet subsequently and
vote for the President. Should no person voted for receive a majority
of the votes of all the electors appointed, the choice of a President
goes over to theHouse of Representatives, which elects by States, each
State having one vote only, and an absolute majority being required.
Although it was originally intended that the Presidential electors
should be free to choose whatever person they thought best, it has long
since become the rule that they shall ^ote for the candidate nom-
inated by the party which has chosen them as electors ; and they are
in fact nothing more than a contrivance by which the people, that is,
the party which commands a majority of votes, chooses the President.
However, as the election takes place by States, and as even a very
small popular majority in a particular state can throw the whole elec-
toral vote of that State for one candidate, while in one or more
other States a very large popular majority can do no more than throw
the electoral vote of the State for the other candidate, it sometimes
happens that the candidate who gets the majority of the electors' votes,
and is therefore chosen, has not obtained a majority of the total pop-
ular votes cast. Another consequence of this device is that whereas
the contest is always very keen in States where parties are equally
balanced, it is quite languid where one party is known to have a
majority, because the greater or smaller size of that majority makes
no difference in the general result over the whole Union. The Presiden-
tial electors are now usually chosen by a popular vote all over each
State, but they were at one time chosen by the State Legislatures,
and also for a time, in many States, by districts. Michigan has recently
reintroduced the district plan.
The President must be thirty-live years of age and a native
citizen of the United States. He is legally re-eligible any number
of times, but custom (dating from George "Washington) has estab-
lished the rule that he must not be re-elected more than once. He
receives a salary of $75,000 (15,000^.).
The President's executive duties are of five kinds :
(a). He is commander-in-chief of the Army and Navy (and of
State militia when in Federal service) and commissions all officers.
(b). He appoints all the chief and many minor officials, but the
consent of the Senate is required, and is sometimes withheld, except
to what are called Cabinet offices.
(c). He has a general supervision over the whole Federal adminis-
tration and the duty of seeing that the (^Federal) laws are duly
executed. Should disorder arise anywhere which the State authorities
are unable to suppress, they may invoke his aid to restore tranquillity.
(d). He conducts the foreign policy of the nation, and negotiates
AND GOVERNMENT. liii
treaties, whicli, however, xeqnire the approval of the Senate. The
power of declaring war rests with Congress.
(e). He may recommend measures to Congress, and has the right,
when a bill passed by Congress is sent to him, of returning it with
his objections. If in both Houses of Congress it is again passed by a
majority of two-thirds in each Honse, it becomes law notwithstanding
his objections; if not, it is lost. This so-called Veto power has been
largely exercised, especially by recent Presidents. Between 1884 and
1888 no fewer than 304 bills, most of them private or personal bills
were vetoed, and very few were repassed over the veto.
The Administration or Cabinet consists at present of nine min-
isters, viz..: Secretary of State (who has the conduct of foreign
affairs) , Secretary of the Treasury (Finance Minister) , Secretary of
War. Attorney General (Minister of Federal justice as well as legal
adviser). Secretary of the Navy, Postmaster General, Secretary of the
Interior (with charge of Indian Affairs , of the management of the
public lands, and of pensions), Secretary of Agriculture, Secretary
of Commerce and Labour. N<me of these, nor any other officer of the
Government, can sit in Congress. They are appointed and dismissible
by the President, and are primarily responsible to him rather than to
Congress, which can get rid of them only by impeachment, a process
applicable rather to specific offences than to incompetence, and not
applicable at all to mere divergence of policy from that which the major-
ity of Congress desires. The Cabinet is therefore something quite dif-
ferent from what is called a cabinet in European countries. It does
not relieve the President of responsibility ; he may consult it as much
or as little as he pleases, and he need not be guided by its advice.
The Federal Judiciary. There are four sets of Federal Courts :
(a). The District Courts , 85 in number, in which the District
Judges sit, receiving salaries of $ 6000.
(b). The Circuit Courts, held in the nine judicial circuits, and
served by the Circuit judges, now 29 in number (salary $7000),
together with a judge of the Supreme Court, one such judge being
allotted to each circuit.
(c). The Circuit Courts of Appeal, entertaining appeals from
the District or Circuit Courts.
(d). The Supreme Court, consisting of a Chief Justice and
eight puisne justices who sit at Washington and have original juris-
diction in cases affecting ambassadors, or where a State is a party to
the suit. In other cases they are a Court of Appeal from inferior
Federal Courts. The salary is $ 12,500 ($ 13,000 for the Chief Justice).
All these judges are appointed by the President with the consent
of the Senate, and hold office for life, unless removed by impeach-
ment. Only four have ever been Impeached, and two of these were
acquitted. A place on the Supreme Bench is much desired and
prized ; and the permanence of tenure secures a pretty high average
liv X. CONSTITUTION
of knowledge and capacity, considering tlie smallness of the salaries
paid also in the inferior Federal courts.
The jurisdiction of the Federal Courts extends over the whole
Union, but is limited to certain classes of cases, civil and criminal,
the most important whereof are the following.
Cases affecting ambassadors and other foreign ministers, cases of
admiralty and maritime jurisdiction, controversies to which the
United States shall be a party, controversies between States , or
between citizens of different States, or between a State, or any of
its citizens, and any foreign State or its subjects or citizens, cases
arising under the Federal Constitution, or some law or treaty duly
made by the Federal government. If, as frequently happens in the
three last-mentioned sets of cases, the action has begun in a State
Court, there is a full right to have it removed into a Federal Court,
and this may be done even in an action which was supposed to in-
volve questions of State Law only, if in the course of the proceedings
some point of Federal Law arises. The result is to secure to the
Federal Courts the cognizance not only of all international and inter-
State questions, but also of aU those which in any way depend upon
Federal Legislation. Thus the arm of the National Government is
extended over the whole Union, each Federal Court having an officer
called the U.S. Marshal to execute its judgments, and being entitled
to demand the aid of the local authorities in case of resistance.
There is nothing special or peculiar in the powers of the Supreme
Court, or of the American Federal Courts generally j nor have they,
as is sometimes supposed, a right to review and annul the acts either
of Congress or of the State Legislatures. The importance of their
functions arises from the fact that in the United States the Consti-
tution is the supreme law of the land everywhere, so that if any
Statute passed by Congress, or any Constitution enacted by a State,
or any Statute passed by a State Legislature, conflicts with the
Federal Constitution, such Statute or State Constitution is as a
matter of law invalid and null, and must be treated as such by all
persons concerned. The authorities whose function it is to ascertain
and determine whether it does or does not conflict with the Federal
Constitution are the Courts of Law ; and as the Supreme Federal
Court is the highest court of appeal in all questions involving the
Federal Constitution, all important and difficult cases are carried
to it and its decision is final. The Courts, and especially the Supreme
Court, of each State exercise a similar function in cases where a
State Statute is alleged to be in conflict with a State Constitution, the
latter, of course, as being a law of higher degree, prevailing against
the former. No court, however, pronounces upon the validity of a
law unless in an action or other regular legal proceeding between
parties, for the decision of which it becomes necessary to settie
whether or no tlie law is valid. (In a few States, the Governor or
the Legislature may consult the Supreme Court on constitutional
AND GOVERNMENT Iv
points, but the opinions so given by a Conrt are not deemed to be
binding like a judgment in an action.) As in all questions of Federal
Law the State Courts are bound to follow and apply the decisions
of the Federal Courts, so also in all questions of State Law, when
these come before a Federal Court, such Court ought to follow and
apply the decisions of the highest court of the particular State in
question. That is to say, the Federal Courts are not higher than the
State Courts, but have a different sphere of action, nor are they,
except as regards questions arising under the Federal Constitution,
called to overrule decisions of the State Courts.
General Working of the Federal Government. The salient feature
of the Federal or national Government is that it consists of three de-
partments, each designed to work independently of the other two.
Thus the Federal Executive, the President and his Ministers, are
independent of Congress. The President is elected (indirectly) by
the people, and cannot be displaced by Congress (except by impeach-
ment). The Ministers are appointed by the President, and cannot
be dismissed by Congress nor even restrained in their action, except
in so far as legislation may operate to restrain them ; and as Congress
is debarred from intruding into certain administrative details, its
legislation cannot reach these. The President cannot dissolve Con-
gress , which is elected for a fixed period , and cannot check its
legislation, if there is a majority of two-thirds against him in both
Houses. The conduct of foreign affairs, however, and the making
of appointments belong partly to him and partly to the Senate, so
that in this sphere he and one branch of Congress are closely asso-
ciated. The third department, the Judiciary, is independent of the
other two, for though its members are appointed by the President
with the consent of the Senate, they cannot be ejected from office
except by impeachment. All these departments are deemed to derive
their respective powers directly from the people. Congress and the
President by election , the Judges from the Constitution which the
people enacted and which it is their duty to interpret. Thus the
principle of Popular Sovereignty is consistently carried out. That
principle is, however, even more conspicuous in the State Govern-
ments, because in them not only are all the leading officials directly
elected by the people, and (in the great majority of the States) the
judges also, but also because the people constantly legislate directly
(without the intervention of the State Legislatures) by enacting State
constitutions or constitutional amendments. Although, however, in
this aspect the Federal Government (and still more the State Govern-
ments) may appear to be very democratic, the following important
restrictions have been provided to prevent sudden or violent change,
(a) The Legislature, which is the strongest power, is divided into two
coordinate and jealous houses, (b) The Legislature is further restrained
by the veto of the President, (c) The Legislature is limited to certain
subjects and disabled from certain kinds of action, (d) The President
Ivi X. CONSTITUTION
is held in check by Congress, which can refuse money, and by the
Senate in foreign affairs and appointments, (e) He has, moreover, only
a very small standing army at his disposal.
Conjoint Working of the Federal and State Governments. Al-
though the Federal Government is in constant action by its laws,
its officials, and its judges over the territory included in the States,
comparatively little friction arises between the two sets of author-
ities. As respects elections, all State elections are conducted under
State laws. Federal elections to some extent under Federal laws, so
far as these have prescribed certain rules, but chiefly under State laws,
because Congress has left many points untouched. As regards finance,
all direct taxation is imposed by the State Legislatures, while the
Federal Government raises its revenue by duties of customs and
excise. The chief difficulties which have been felt of late years are
connected with the divergences of law between the different States,
especially as regards marriage and divorce, and with the control of
commerce and the organs of transportation, especially railroads. The
Federal Government can legislate only with regard to trade between
the States and to navigable waters within more than one State and
railroads so far as they carry traffic between States. Many intricate
problems have arisen as to the respective scope of Federal and State
action on such matters ; but these have, since the Civil War, been
peaceably adjusted by the Courts as interpreters of the Constitution.
Extra-State Dominions of the United States. Washington, the
capital of the Union, stands in a piece of ground comprising 69 sq. M.
which has been set apart as the seat of Federal Government, and is
governed by three Commissioners appointed by the President. It is
called the Federal District of Columbia.
There are four Territories (Arizona, New Mexico, Alaska, and
Hawaii). The Union is a union of States only, and these districts have
not yet been admitted to the dignity of Statehood. Arizona and New
Mexico each enjoy local self-government, having a legislature of two
Houses which can pass statutes, subject, however, to the unrestricted
authority of Congress to annul them and legislate directly. In each
of these there is a Governor appointed by the President 5 and part of
the law in force has been directly enacted by Congress.
Alaska (comp. p. 678) and Hawaii, though ranking nominally as
Territories, are still directly governed by Federal officials (named by
the President) and by statutes of Congress. Each Territory sends a
delegate to the Federal House of Representatives, who is allowed to
speak but not to vote.
Thft Philippine Islands and Porto Rico (p. 669) are dependencies,
having their own legislatures, but with Governors appointed by the
President, and upper chambers also consisting chiefly of nominated
members.
Practical Working of the Government. The Party System. The
character of the political institutions of the country has been so largely
AND GOVERNMENT. Ivii
affected by the political parties tliat a few words regarding their
organization and methods are needed in order to understand the actual
working of the Government.
Since the adoption of the Federal Constitution in 1788-89, the
people of the United States have been, except for a few years (from
about 1818 till 1826^, pretty sharply divided into two parties. Oc-
casionally, three or even four parties have appeared ; these, however,
have been short-lived. From 1789 till 1818 the two great parties
were the Federalists and (Democratic) Republicans; the Federalists
then disappeared, while from about 1830 till 1854 the Republicans,
now called simply Democrats, were opposed by a party called Whigs.
In 1856 a new party who took the name of Republicans came into be-
ing, carried the Presidential Election of 1860, and have continued
until now contending with the Democrats. Minor present parties are
the Prohibitionists and the Socialists, the latter sometimes divided
into sections (comp. Section ix of Introd.). Both the two great parties
have created and maintain themselves by exceedingly strong and
well ordered organizations, existing over the whole country as a
body of political machinery far more effective than has ever been
seen elsewhere. The causes which have made such machinery
necessary are chiefly these three.
Elections are very numerous , because all the chief State and
City officials and all members of representative assemblies are chosen
by the people and chosen for short terms. Even those official posts
which are not directly conferred by popular vote, such as all the
Federal offices, are usually held at the pleasure of the President or
some other high official, who has for the last sixty years been accus-
tomed to appoint members of his own party to them, dismissing those
whom he finds on coming into power, if they belong to the opposite
party. The desire to have or to retain these posts furnishes a strong
personal motive for exertion on behalf of a party, because one's
livelihood may depend upon it. Moreover the social equality which
prevails generally in America prevents the masses from being dis-
posed to follow men conspicuous by rank, wealth, or intelligence, and
makes it necessary to have organizations in order to supply the ab-
sence of that spontaneous allegiance and natural grouping which do
much to hold parties together socially in the free countries of the
Old World. As there are in the United States comparatively few
persons with "sufficient leisure to devote themselves to political work
from purely public motives, it has been thought necessary that this
work should be done by those who have a pecuniary interest in the
success of their party ; and these persons, making such work their
profession, have been able to carry this political machine to an un-
precedented point of effectiveness.
In every local area which elects an official or a representative
(such as a City Ward or a Rural Township) each of the two great
parties has a local association which selects from the resident members
Iviii X. CONSTITUTION
of the party a candidate to be ran for every elective post or office at the
next election. The meeting of the local members of the party which
makes this selection is called a Primary Meeting. Where an election
is to take place for a wider area (such as a Congressional district or a
State Assembly district, or a City) the candidate is selected by a party
meeting called a Convention, consisting of delegates from all of the
primaries vnthin that area. Where the election is that of the President
of the United States, the party candidate is selected by a very large
body called the National Nominating Convention, consisting of dele-
gates chosen by Conventions held in the several States. The number
of delegates to this greatest of all Conventions is double that of the
number of Presidential electors plus two delegates from each Territory.
Very rarely does any candidate offer himself for election to any
post unless he has been selected by a Primary or a Convention as
the party candidate. Sometimes, however, in local elections (especi-
ally in cities) a third organization is created in view of a particular
election or group of elections, which nominates what is called an
'Independent' or 'Citizens' candidate , outside the regular organ-
izations of the two great parties. And when a third or fourth party
(such as the Prohibitionists or the Socialists) exists, it establishes
in that part of the country where it has substantial strength, an
organization like that of the Democrats or the Republicans ; and
nominates its candidates in the same way. Great importance is at-
tached to 'getting the nomination', because a large number of voters
in each party are disposed (especially in great cities) to adhere to the
candidate whom the organization has chosen, with comparatively little
regard either to the precise shade of his opinions or to his Intellectual
capacity. Great pains are therefore bestowed on securing the nomi-
nation, and where there are two local factions within a party, the
strife between them over the nomination is often more bitter than that
between the hostile parties. Bribery, personation, and even physical
violence have been sometimes resorted to in order to carry a nomi-
nation of delegates in a Primary or of candidates in a Nominating Con-
vention ; so that in many States it was deemed needful to pass laws
for regulating these party meetings, securing the freedom of the
voters, and preventing corruption or unfairness. So, also, when the
control of the nomination for the Presidency lies between two prominent
and popular party leaders, the Convention is a scene not only of
active and protracted intrigue behind the scenes, but of passionate
excitement during the voting.
This system of party machinery, and the habit which the voters
have of supporting those candidates only whom the official machine
nominates, have become one of the main causes of misgovemment
in the largest cities. In those cities there is a large poor and com-
paratively ignorant multitude which, since it pays an exceedingly
small part of the local taxation, has a very slight interest in econo-
mical and pradent administration. It falls easily under the dominion
AND GOVERNMENT. Ux
of leaders belonging to its own class who care little for real polit-
ical issues, but make their living out of the city offices and the
opportunities of enrichment which such offices supply, and it votes
blindly for the candidates whom those leaders, through their con-
trol of the organization, put forward as the 'regular party candi-
dates'. These candidates are, of course, in league with the men who
'run the machine' ; and when they obtain office, they reward their
supporters by posts in their gift, sometimes also by securing for them
impunity from punishment, for in the lower parts of some cities the
nominating machinery has fallen into the grasp of cliques which, if
not actually criminal, occasionally use criminals as their tools. An-
other source of the strength of these dangerous elements in politics
has lain in the profuse use of money. Bribery has been not uncommon,
both in City, State, Congressional, and Presidential elections. Efforts,
however, which seem likely to be successful, have lately been made
to repress it by the adoption in nearly all the States of laws creat-
ing a really secret ballot. Some States have also sought to limit
election expenditure; and it may be said generally that the spirit of
reform is actively at work upon all that relates to the election system.
Intimidation is rare, except in the Southern States, where it is still
occasionally, though much more rarely than thirty years ago, prac-
tised upon the negroes. Seeing that the great majority of the negro
voters are illiterate and possessed of little political knowledge, white
men otherwise friendly to the coloured people justify both this and the
more frequent use of various tricks and devices as the only remedies
against the evils which might follow the predominance of the coloured
vote in those States, where the whites are in a minority.
As visitors from Europe, who usually spend most of their time in
the great cities, are apt to overestimate these blemishes in the dem-
ocratic institutions of the United States, it is well to observe that
they are far from prevailing over the whole country, that they are not a
necessary incident to democratic institutions but largely due to causes
which may prove transitory, and that they do not prevent the govern-
ment both of the Nation and of the States from being, on the whole,
efficient and popular, conformable to the wishes of the people and
sufficient for their needs. — There is no Established Church in the
United States, nor is any preference given by the law of any State to
any one religious body over any other body, although such was for-
merly the case in the older States, and might be now enacted, so far as
the Federal Constitution is concerned, in any State. However all the
States have, each for itself, pronounced in favour of absolute religious
equality and embodied such a provision in their respective constitu-
tions. When questions relating to the temporalities of any ecclesiastical
body or person come before the courts of law, they are dealt with by the
ordinary law like other questions of contract and property. Religious
feeling seldom enters into political strife, and there is a general desire
to prevent its intrusion either in Federal or in State matters.
Ix XI. ABORIGINES
XI. Aborigines and Aboriginal Bemains,
by the late
Professor O. T. Mason
(revised by Dr. W. Hough).
The aboriginal history of the United States divides itself into
two chapters, the Archaeologic and the Ethnographic. The former
relates to a period abont whose beginning there is mnch dispnte and
whose close shades into the latter imperceptibly. The ethnographic
chapter opens with the romantic adventures of Ponce de Leon (p. 616)
in Florida with the Timncna Indians and is not yet closed, t
I. Archaeology. The archaeologist from abroad will find in the
United States no such imposing mins as meet his eyes everywhere
in the Old World. Not even with Mexico or Central America or
Pern can the ruins scattered over the Federal Republic enter into
competition. The same is true of the age of these relics. It has been
both alleged and disputed with vehemence, and that by eminent
authorities on both sides, that at Trenton [p. 157), Madison ville (see
p. Ixi) and Comerstown in Ohio, Little Falls in Minnesota (p. 438),
Table Mountain in California, and elsewhere, palaeolithic man, in
remote glacial times, left traces of his existence. But the true remains
of antiquity within the borders of the United States are the shell
heaps, bone-heaps, and refuse-heaps ; the ancient quarries, workshops,
and mines ; evidences of primitive agriculture ; graves and cemeteries ;
mounds and earthworks; pueblos and cliff -dwellings; trails, re-
servoirs, and aqueducts ; springs; caves; pictographs and sculptures;
relics of ancient arts and industries ; crania and skeletons belong-
ing to vanished peoples. And these relate to a grade of culture upon
which all advanced races once stood.
Shell Heaps, Bone Heaps^ Refuse Heaps. Along the Atlantic
Coast, up and down the great affluents of the Mississippi, on the
shores of the Gulf of Mexico and of the Pacific Ocean, are vast accu-
mulations of shells, left by former savage tribes. Mingled with the
shells are bones of the dead and the apparatus which they used in
their lifetimes. In each locality the mollusks whose remains are
discovered were of those species which still abound in the region. The
most celebrated shell-heaps are found along the New England shores,
in the Chesapeake Bay, throughout Florida, in Mobile Harbour, on
the Tennessee River, at Santa Barbara and San Francisco in Cali-
fornia, and about the shallows in Washington State. Bone-heaps are
found on the plains of Dakota and are the remains of ancient buffalo
feasts. The refuse-heaps are all that is left on ancient Indian camp
sites, and there is scarcely a town in the Union that is not near one
or more of these old habitations of the past.
+ See Farrand^ in The American Nation, a History (N. Y. ; 1904), for an
excellent resume of the preparation of America for the white race.
AND ABORIGINAL REMAINS. Ixi
Quarries, Workshops, and Mines. The aborigines of the United
States had no other industrial life than that which belongs to the
stone age. They quarried quartz, quartzite, novaculite, jasper, argil-
lite, steatite, catlinite, slate, mica, volcanic rocks, always at the
best sources of the material. The quarrying was, of course, simply
the opening of shallow pits and drifts, by means of the rudest tools
of wood, antler, and bone; and in the exercise of the most rudimentary
engineering. They blocked out the art product at the quarry, leav-
ing millions of spalls and rejected pieces, which resemble somewhat
the so-called palaeolithic implements. They manufactured these sub-
stances by flaking, chipping, pecking, boring, sawing, and grinding,
using as tools hammers, saws, drills, polishers, etc., of stone and
other materials at hand. Copper abounded in the W. central states,
the raw material coming from Keweenaw and Ontonagon counties,
Michigan. This co;^er was not smelted, but treated as a stone. It
was cold-hammered on stone anvils with stone hammers, ground
into shape on sandstone, and finished after the manner of a stone
implement. All the relics of the ancient Americans of this region
are of the neolithic type, though the tourist will doubtless be told
that this is not true and will be shown all sorts of marvellous things.
Primitive Agriculture. Not only are finished implements re-
covered that must have been used in rude tillage; but, in S. Michigan
especially, garden beds or rows were discovered, where maize,
pumpkins, beans, and other indigenous plants had been cultivated.
In Arizona and New Mexico terrace gardens adjoin the sites of
ancient ruined pueblos, and in the caves and cliff-dwelUngs maize
ears, pumpkin, squash, and cotton seed, and beans are found.
Graves and Cemeteries. The best-known antiquities of the United
States are the ancient cemeteries, the mounds, and the earth-
works. It is difficult to discover an Indian grave to the E. of the
Alleghenies or to the W, of the 100th meridian. Within those
limits they occur everywhere. The disposal of the dead was
different in all the families of tribes. Inhumation, desiccation, in-
urning, surface disposal, aerial sepulture, aquatic burial, cremation,
all had their advocates and practitioners. The most celebrated
cemeteries are at Madisonville (Ohio), near Nashville (p. 585), and
near Santa Barbara (p. 527).
Mounds and Earthworks. The mound and earthwork region in-
cludes W. New York, N. W. Pennsylvania, W. Virginia, N. Carolina,
S, Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Arkansas,
Tennessee, Kentucky, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, E. Missouri,
S. Michigan, Wisconsin, and Dakota.
'Within this territory are the copper mines of Lake Superior, the salt
mines of Illinois and Kentucky, the garden beds of Michigan, the pipe-
stone quarry of Minnesota, the extensive potteries of Missouri, the stone
graves of Illinois and Tennessee, the wforkshops, the stone cairns, the stone
v^alls, the ancient roadways, and the old walled towns of Georgia, the hut
rings of Arkansas, the shelter caves of Tennessee and Ohio, the mica mines
in South Carolina, the quarries in Flint Ridge (Ohio)-, the ancient hearths
Ixii XI. ABORIGINES
of Ohio, tlie Lone beds and alabaster caves in Indiana, the shell-heaps of
Florida, oil wells, and ancient mines and rock inscriptions'. [Peet, 'The
Mound-Builders: their works and their relics' (Chicago 5 1892).]
Both mounds and earthworks are, however, to be seen sparingly
everywhere. The largest mounds in the United States are in Illinois,
opposite St. Louis (p. 410), and no one should spend a day in that
city without taking a trip across the great steel bridge and visiting
the Cahokia Mound near E. St. Louis (p. 409). In the neighbourhood
are oTer fifty others of enormous size. In the cemetery at Marietta
(p. 360), and at Grave Creek, on the Ohio river, 12 M. below Wheel-
ing (p. 352), may be seen mounds of great size. The most famous
tumulus is the Serpent Mound in Ohio (p. 408).
To the E. of the Rocky Mountains the most interesting remains
are the earthworks. And of these there are two sorts, those designed
for defence and those erected for ceremonial pijrposes. The former
are found on bluffs and tongues of land with precipitous sides.
These natural forts are strengthened by ditch banks and stone heaps
and gateways covered within and without by mounds. The latter,
on the contrary, are in exposed plains. Their ditch banks are in
circles and polygonal figures and the parts are arranged as for
religious and social occasions.
Besides those already mentioned the following defensive and ceremon-
ial works may be mentioned (all in Ohio): — the Great Mound, atMiamis-
burg; Fort Ancient (p. 403); the Newark Works i the Alligator Mound,
near Granville ; the Stone Fort, near Bourneville ; the Fortified Hill in
Butler Co. ; the Liberty Township Works; and the Hopeton Works.
Pueblos and Cliff Dwellings. In the drainage-basin of the Colorado
and the Rio Grande, within the boundaries of Colorado, Utah, New
Mexico, Arizona, and the N.W.tier of Mexican states, are the pueblos
and the clifi'-dwellings. Twenty-one pueblos along the Rio Grande,
between 34" 45' and 36° 30' N. lat., are still inhabited by two different
stocks of Indians, the Tafioan and the Keresan. The Zuni, residing
near the W. border of New Mexico, on the 30th parallel, speak an
independent language; and the Hopi, in N.E. Arizona (see p. 480),
dwelling in seven towns or pueblos, belong to the Shoshonean
linguistic stock. Besides these inhabited villages of stone and adobe,
there are many hundreds in the territory just named that have long
been tenantless, and most of them are in ruins. The largest of them
and by far the most imposing ruin within the United States is the
Casa Grande (p. 551). The material is adobe made into large blocks.
Three buildings, one of them sufficiently preserved to show the ori-
ginal form , stand in great rectangular compounds. The largest
collection of ruined pueblos in this region lies on the Salt River, near
the town of Phoenix (p. 551). Pueblos of large size are found in the
Chaco canyon, New Mexico. Pueblo Bonito, a ruin of this group,
is semicircular and measures 500 ft. by 300 ft. In the canyon regions
bordering and opening into the Colorado river channel, especially
upon the San Juan and the Dolores and their tributaries, are to be
found clift-dwellings innumerable ; they are less numerous on the
AND ABORIGINAL REMAINS. Ixiii
waters of the Verde, Salt, and Gila rivers. They are mainly the
ontgrowth of topographical features, which prevented the constrac-
tion of the typical pueblos in the open air. They are divided in two
classes by archaeologists, the Cliff Houses proper, constructed of
masonry and set under the overhangs of massive rock in the canyons ;
and the Cavate Houses excavated in cliffs of tufa. The more note-
worthy cliff- houses are the Casa Blanca in Canyon de Chelly,
Arizona (p. 480); the Cliff Palace and Spruce Tree House on the
Mesa Verde, Colorado (p. 493); and the Casa Montezuma, on Beaver
Creek, Arizona. Cavate houses occur in thousands along the E.
side of the Jemez plateau, upper Rio Grande, and others are found
on the Rio Verde, Arizona. Somewhat distinct from these are the
rude habitations excavated in scoria masses near Flagstaff, Arizona.
Many of these cliff and cavate habitations are high up and difficult
of access, but they overlook long valleys of arable land. Many
Shrines have been noted in proximity to Pueblo ruins. Others exist
among rocks and on mountain tops and contain offerings of turquoise
and shell beads, pottery, etc. The relics found in this region are the
envy of collectors. The Pueblos still manufacture pottery, but the
ancient is far superior in quality to the new. Large collections are
in the Eastern Museums, especially the National Musenm.
Trails, Reservoirs, and Aqueducts. For the purposes of war and
trade the savages traversed the United States from end to end. They
had no beasts of burden save the dog, consequently they made port-
ages from stream to stream, carried their canoes and loads across on
their backs, and then pursued their journey. The traces of these an-
cient paths of primitive commerce may yet be seen. In the same rude
manner these savages had learned to store up and conduct water for
home use and for irrigation. Especially in the South "West are the
works of this class to be studied.
Springs. On account of the veneration of water sacred springs
are numerous in the Pueblo region. Offerings of miniature pottery,
flint implements, and in a few cases wooden objects and bones
have been taken from them. The more noted are Montezuma Well,
south of Flagstaff, and Gallo Spring, in Socorro County, New
Mexico.
Caves. Inhabitation of caves never extended beyond the zone
of light; this is true also of the deeper recesses where cliff- dwellings
were erected. Deep caves were almost invariably depositories of
offerings to the supernatural beings. In the limbo behind the cliff-
dwellings discarded effects and house rejecta were thrown, and in
this mass burials were made. The greatest ceremonial cave, having
a floor area of over 10,000 sq. ft., is on Blue River, Graham County,
Arizona. The exploitation of caves in this region for guano has
brought to light vast quantities of offerings.
Pictographs and Sculptures. The very ancient people and their
modern representatives had attained to that form of writing called
Ixi^ XI. ABORIGINES
pictographic. The traveller will see in museums all sorts of figures
scratched on bark, painted on skin or wood, etched on bone or ivory,
engraved on pieces of stone, and he will often come upon the same
designs sketched on cliffs and boulders. These constitute the written
language of the aborigines. In true sculpture the latter were not at
all adept and they had no alphabetic writing. Once in a while myster-
ious bits of stone are fo>ind with Cypriote or other characters thereon,
but they never belonged to the civilization of this continent. Among
the numerous pictographs are the extensive gallery near one of
the Petritied Forests of Arizona (p. 480} and that in the lower
canyon of the Tularosa River, New Mexico. They occur in greater
frequency in the South West and are not records having connected
significance, but are rather evidence of an exuberance of artistic
instinct. The stone lions of Coehiti, New Mexico, are remarkable
Pueblo sculptures.
Relics of Ancient Arts and Industries. As before mentioned the
native tribes were in the neolithic stone age. Therefore, it is no
exaggeration to say that the whole surface of the United States was
strewn with relics. In every ancient grave, mound, or ruin they
abound. The tourist will have no trouble in finding in every town
a museum containing these objects and in every hamlet some one
whose house is packed with them. So desirable are they that thou-
sands are fraudulently made and palmed off upon the unwary.
Crania and Skeletons. Much difficulty bas been encountered by
archaeologists in distinguishing the crania of the truly prehistoric
American from those of the Indians encountered by the early ex-
plorers. The problem is further embarrassed by artificial deforma-
tions and by changes produced by the pressure of the soil. Ex-
cellent collections exist in Cambridge, Philadelphia, Washington,
Cincinnati, and St. Louis.
Etlinograpby. The native tribes that once covered the entire
domain of the Union belonged to fifty independent linguistic stocks.
Some of these were spread over vast areas, for example, the Algon-
kian, Athapascan, Iroquoian, Muskhogean, Shoshonean, and Siouan.
But a wonderful change has taken place in two centuries. Excepting
a few small settlements here and there, the Indians are gone from
the Atlantic States. Only the Cherokees in North Carolina, the
Seminoles in Florida, the Iroquois in New York, and the Chippewa
tribes about Lake Superior remain to the E. of tbe Mississippi river.
The aboriginal title gave way to the title of discovery, and the feeble
Indian title of occupancy lias been swept away by the tide of European
immigration.
There are at present, as regards title aud legal status, several kinds
of Indians in the Union.
1. Citizen Indians. The State of Massachusetts and the United States
in certain cases have conferred upon Indians the full rights of citizenship,
2. In a few states, notably New York, reservations are granted to In-
dians and they are protected in their tribal rights therein.
AND ABORIGINAL REMAINS. Ixv
3. Eoving Indians are still at large in greater or smaller bands, espe-
cially in tlie Rocky Monntain region.
4. In acquiring its S.W. territory from Mexico the United States in-
herited three kinds of Indians : the Pueblo Indians, the Mission Indians,
and the wild tribes. The status of these is most confusing.
5. But the great mass of Indians in the Union are in ^ome sort of
relation to the United States and hold their lands (1) by Executive Order,
(2) by Treaty or by Act of Congress, (3) by Patent to the tribe, (4) by
Patent to individuals.
For the relinquishment of their ancient homes the United States has
also entered into agreements to pay to the tribes certain annuities in money
and goods. Under these circumstances there are some of them who are
the richest communities in the world. In the Osage tribe every man,
woman, and child is worth $ 1500. The New York Iroquois preserve their
autonomy and make their own laws, but also have a government agent.
Many thousand Indians have their lands 'allotted' and thus have lately
become citizens, the title to the land being inalienable for 25 years.
XII. Physiography of North America,
by the late
Professor N. S. Shaler
(revised by Professor T. A. Jaggar Jr.).
Although the traveller in North America may he most interested
in the people or their social and material accomplishments , he
will find it desirable at the outset of his journey to consider the phy-
sical conditions of the land, the nature of the climate, soil, and un-
der earth : circumstances which have gone far to determine the
history and development of the people who have come to the coun-
try from the old world.
The continent of North America is in many ways sharply con-
trasted with that of Europe. The last-named land consists mainly of
great peninsulas and islands, which are geological dependencies of
the great Asiatic field. It is, indeed, a mere fringe of the great Eur-
asian continent. North America, on the other hand, is distinctly sepa-
rate from other areas, with a relatively undiversifled shore, and with
an interior country less divided than Europe by distinct geographic
features, such as seas or mountain-chains. This geographic unity of
the N. part of the New World is due, as is the case with all its other
conspicuous features, to the geologic history of the country ; it will
therefore be well to preface the account of its detailed features by a
very brief description of the steps by which its development was
brought about.
In the Archaean age, the earliest epoch which geologists can
trace in the history of the earth, the continent of North America ap-
pears to have consisted of a land mass outlined somewhat as at
present but with extensions lying in the neighbouring seas beyond
the present limits of the land, the positions of which are not clearly
known. There were Inland seas and archipelagos and, in Algonkian
Bakdbkek's United States. 4th Edit. e
Ixvi Xn. PHYSIOGRAPHY.
time, great masses of sandstone, mudstone, and limestone with
accompanying volcanic ontponrings laid down in various places. At
the beginning of the Cambrian period we find a continent much
like the present one in outline with embayments like the gulfs of
Mexico and California, gradually extending northward to receive
sediments along troughlike depressions where the Cordilleran and
Appalachian mountain ranges now are.
Gradually the interior of the continent subsided and from the
d^ris of the ancient lands which lay to the East and to the West,
together with the deposits of organic remains accumulated in a broad
Mediterranean sea, strata of Ordovician, Silurian, and Devonian ages
were formed. They extended far and wide over the area occupied
by the great plains and the Mississippi Valley. These in turn were
partly uplifted to make dry land, and yet other marine accumulations,
formed in the then shallow seas, afforded the beginning of the Car-
boniferous strata. From time to time the more deeply buried rocks
of the Appalachian and Cordilleran troughs had been warped and
somewhat folded during these ages. The slow uprising of the land
soon brought the continent to a state where there were very exten-
sive low-lying plains forming a large part of what is now the Mis-
sissippi Valley, as well as the field now occupied by the Allegheny
Mts., which then had been only slightly elevated, and other such
plains fringed the E. coast of the Appalachian continent. On these
plains there developed extensive bogs, which from time to time were
depressed beneath the level of the sea and buried beneath accumu-
lations of mud and sand. These afforded the beginning of the coal
beds which constitute so important a feature in the economic re-
sources of the country.
After the close of the great coal-making time, the Appalachian
mountains were made by uplift and erosion, and similar mountain
ranges of the Cordillera were formed on the western side of the con-
tinent. About this period the new red sandstone, or Trias, was
deposited on river flats, deserts, and lagoons on the eastern side of
the continent, while considerable areas west and south were stUl in-
vaded by shallow Mediterranean seas. There was, however, a wide-
spread drying up of these seas in many places, which produced gyp-
sum rocks ; and perhaps the continent at this time was as nearly co-
extensive with the present North American continent as at any time
in its history. In Jurassic and Cretaceous times there came about
new invasions of the sea from North and West as well as from the
direction of the Gulf of Mexico, and vast marine deposits were laid
down over the area now known as the Great Plains of the West.
The Tertiary period, the last great section of geologic time pre-
ceding the present age, was inaugurated by an uplift accompanied
by volcanic outpourings which first gave definition to the Rocky
Mountains. Great lakes were formed in many places, and elsewhere
over the upraised sea-bottom of the Great Plains region rivers spread
Xn. PHYSIOGRAPHY. Ix^il
their deposits. The lowlands of the Gulf states and of the Atlantic
coast to the S. of New York rose and sank before the waters of the
Atlantic in slow oscillations, so that hroad deposits which we now
find there are varionsly of fresh water or marine origin. In the clos-
ing stages of this Tertiary time there came the glacial period, dnring
which a number of ice sheets, now practically limited to Greenland
and Alaska, were extended so as to cover nearly one-half of the con-
tinent, the margin of the snowy fields being for a time carried as far
S. as the Potomac and the borders of the Ohio River at Cincinnati,
mantling the region to the N. vnth. an icy covering having a depth of
several thousand feet At this stage of the geological history, the N.
portion of the land under the ice was deeply depressed relatively
to the S. portion as we know it to-day. One of the extraordinary
creations of the ice was the formation of what are known as the Great
Lakes, which lie on the border between Canada and the United States.
These were at first immense bodies of water lying between the re-
ceding ice front and the higher land to the South. At one later stage
in their history the sea formed a strait between New York Harbour
and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, along the Champlain valley, and with
the recession that land was slowly lifted to its present position.
Only in what we may term the present day has the continent quite
recovered from the singular disturbance of its physical and vita
conditions which the ice time brought about.
One of the most important results of the geological history of
North America has been the development of this continent to a point
where its surface is characterized by certain broad and simple topo-
graphic features. It is, indeed, on many accounts, a simple repre-
sentative type of the greater land-masses. The eastern and western
shores are bordered by tolerably continuous mountain ranges: those
facing the Atlantic extend, though with various interruptions, from
Greenland to Alabama ; those next the Pacific from the peninsula of
Alaska to Central America. South of the Rio Grande the Cordilleras
form the attenuated mass of the continent in which lie Mexico and
the states of Central America. Between these mountain ranges and
the neighbouring oceans there is a relatively narrow belt of plains or
low-lying valleys. The principal continental area, however, lies be-
tween these mountain systems in the form of a great trough. The
southern half of this basin constitutes the great valley of the Mis-
sissippi. Its northern portion is possessed by various river systems
draining into the Arctic and Atlantic Oceans, of which the Mackenzie
and the St. Lawrence are the most important. The last named river
system is peculiar in the fact that it is the greatest stream in the world
which is fed mainly from lakes.
If we could contrast this over-brief story of the geological devel-
opment of North America with a similar account of the leading
events which have taken place in Europe, we should readily note the
fact that the former land has had a relatively simple history. Fewer
Ixviii Xn. PHYSIOGRAPHY.
mountain systems have "been developed npon it, and consequently
its shores lack the great peninsulas and islands which are so charac-
teristic a feature in the old worid. To this same architectural sim-
plicity we may attribute the generally uniform character exhibited
by the interior portions of the continent.
The conditions of the ancient history of N"orth America have
served to provide its fields with an abundant and precious store of the
materials which fit its lands to be the seats of a varied and compli-
cated economic life. Of these underground resources we can only
note the more important First among them we may reckon the stores
of burnable material: — coals, petroleum, and rock or natural
gas, substances which in our modern conditions have come to be of
the greatest consequence to mankind.
The Coal Deposits of North America are on the whole more ex-
tensive, afford a greater variety of fuel, and are better placed for eco-
nomic use than are the similar deposits of any other continent except
perhaps Asia, the resources of which are still unknown. They range
in quality from the soft, rather woody, imperfectly formed coals
known as lignites, to beds which afford the hardest anthracites, coals
so far changed from their original condition that they bum without
flame much in the manner of charcoal. The greatest coal fields lie in
the region to the E. of the Mississippi, but immense deposits of lignite
and low grade coal have been discovered between the Mississippi and
the Pacific Ocean, and Alaska promises to be a very rich coal field.
The excellent coals of the eastern country were generally formed
during the Carboniferous age; the lower grade fuel of the West was
almost altogether accumulated in the Cretaceous and Tertiary periods.
The age of the Alaskan coal is probably largely Cretaceous.
The Pdro^ewm of North America occupies a larger portion of the
country and affords a more ample supply of the material than those
of any other land save the region about the shores of the Caspian Sea,
known as the Baku district. The best of the American wells are in
the Ohio valley, California, Texas, Oklahoma, and Louisiana. These
deposits lie in strata from Silurian to Cretaceous, where they were
probably formed by slow chemical change of the fossil remnants of
ancient plant and animal life. The abundance of these accumulations
of petroleum in North America is largely due to the fact that the
beds in which the fluid has been formed lie in horizontal attitudes,
in a position where the fluid has been retained by the unbroken
strata, notwithstanding the great pressure of the rock gases which
tend to drive it forth to the surface. Hence the simplicity above
mentioned of the interior structure of the continent has had much
to do with the preservation of this product.
The Natural or Rock Oases which of late years have played an im-
portant part in the industries of this country, serving for fuel and
for illuminating purposes alike, owe their origin and preservation
to conditions similar to those which have brought about the accumn-
Xn. PHYSIOGRAPHY. Ixix
lation of petroleum. These snbstances, thongh the one is liquid and
the other gaseons in form, are chemif-ally akin, and are indeed only
varied results of the same natural actions. They are both alike often
formed in rocks where the strata abonnd in fossils. The reason why
these materials do not often occur in Europe is probably due to the
fact that the strata of that country have been so much ruptured and
tilted by the mountain-building forces, which have affected almost
every part of that country, that oil and gas have alike escaped to the
surface of the earth by passages which these dislc-ating actions have
provided for them. In North America on the other hand, where vast
areas of strata still lie in substantially the same position in which
they were formed, the substances have been to a great extent re-
tained in the rocks where they were produced.
The store of rock gases and of petroleum known to exist in this
country will probably be exhausted sooner than will the coal, but
estimates which set a definite limit to their production are not be-
lieved to be based upon reliable data. The fuel in the form of coal
exists in such quantity that there is no reason to apprehend a serious
diminution of the store for some centuries. This statement is based
upon a careful estimate made recently by a statistical expert of the
United States Geological Survey.
Next in importance after the fuels of North America, we may
rank the ores from which Iron can be manufactured. These exist in
great quantities in almost every important district of the continent,
and at many points they are very advantageously placed in relation
to supplies of fuel and to the transportation routes. The largest and
the richest mines lie in the distrif't of Lake Superior, while iron ores
of earlier development and still large produf^ers occur in the district
of the Appalachian Mountains between the Potomac River and
Southern Alabama. In this field the ores have the general character
of those which have afforded the basis of the great industry in Great
Britain; as in that country, these Appalachian deposits are very fav-
ourably placed in relation to coke-making coal with which they are
to be smelted. The other conditions for the development of the great
industry are in this district also very favourable, so that this field
is likely to continue to be an important one for iron production in
spite of the extraordinary development of its rival in the region of
the Great Lakes.
1 he most important deposits of iron ore in North America lie in
the region about the head of Lake Superior. In this field the deposits
are of a very high grade and with the rapid development of trans-
portation and improvement of processes on a large scale, it has
become possible to mine them very profitably in spite of their dis-
tance from the region of coking coal in Pennsylvania and Kentucky.
Immense quantities of these ores are transported foi reduction to
the coal district about the headwaters of the Ohio River. The Cor-
dilleran district abounds in iron ores, but as these western iron ores
Ixx Xn. PHYSIOGRAPHY.
are rarely near coals fit for use in furnaces, they cannot be regarded
as of great economic importance at present, though it is probahle
that the future development of western coal lands will carry with it
a great growth in the iron industry. The ores of North America afford
the basis for an iron manufacturing industry which has already sur-
passed that of Great Britain, and at its present rapid rate of growth
gives promise of soon exceeding that of all European countries.
The Copper Deposits of North America are to be ranked as next
in importance to those which afford iron. Ores of this nature are
extensively diffused in the older rocks of this country, but it is only
in N. Michigan, in the Cordilleras and in Alaska that they have been
proved to have great economic value. In the Michigan district they
occur in a metallic form, and in such abundance that, notwithstanding
the very high price of labour in that region, the product of the mine
goes to the world's markets under conditions which enable the es-
tablishments to compete with the production of any other country. In
the Cordilleras of North America the metal occurs, as is usual in
other lands, in the form of ordinary sulphide veins, but the depo-
sits are of such great extent and richness that they have proved very
profitable, notably in Montana, Arizona, and Northern Mexico.
The mines producing Zinc and Lead are now chiefly limited to
Missouri and the Cordilleran belt, though the former metal is still
produced in large quantities from mines in New Jersey. A large
part of the lead which now enters the markets of this country is ob-
tained from the silver ores of the Rocky Mountain district, and as
it is won as a by-product, it is produced at a low cost.
The Odd and Silver Fields of North America, which have consider-
able economic value, are largely limited to the mountainous dis-
trict in the TV. part of the continent. The S. portion of the Appa-
lachian system afforded in the early part of this century, with the
cheap slave-labour of the country, profitable mines of gold, but ef-
forts to work the deposits since the close of the Civil War have proved
unprofitable. There are a few successful gold mines in Nova Scotia.
The evidence goes to show that the Cordilleran region alone is to
be looked to for large supplies of the precious metals. Immense
quantities of gold have been taken from river and beach placer
mines in Alaska during the last decade, and other important dis-
coveries of rich ore have been made in the desert regions of Nevada.
Various other metalliferous ores exist in North America and play
a subordinate part in its mining industry. Tin occurs at many points,
but it has so far proved unprofitable to work the deposits, the main
reason for the failure being the cost of labour involved in the work
of production. Doubtless the most important of these less valued
elements of mineral resources which the continent of North America
affords is the group of fertilizing materials which of late years have
come to play so important a part in the agriculture of this and other
countries. The Phosphate Deposits of the S.E. part of the United
Xn. PHYSIOGRAPHY. Ixxi
States, particularly those of South Carolina and Florida, are now the
basis of a large industry.
The soils of North America have, as the agricultural history of the
country shows, a prevailingly fertile nature. In the region to the E.
of the Mississippi within the limits of the United States over 95 per
cent of the area affords conditions favourable for tillage. This region
of maximum fertility extends over a portion of the area to the "W. of
the great river, but from about the 100th meridian to near the shores
of the Pacific the rainfall is prevailingly insufficient for the needs
of the farm. Crops can in general only be assured by a process of
artificial watering, and the whole of the great Cordilleran field within
the limits of the United States, and a large portion of that area in the
republic of Mexico, a district amounting to near one-third of the con-
tinent, which would otherwise be fit for agriculture, is rendered sterile
by the scanty rainfall. On this account the continent has as a whole
less arable land in proportion to its size than Europe; moreover,
more than one-fifth of its fields lie so far to the N. that they are not
suited for agriculture ; thus not more than three-fifths of the conti-
nent is naturally suited for husbandry. It should be noted, however,
that the fields richest in metals lie in the arid districts, and that in
this part of the realm there are areas aggregating more than 50,000
sq. M. which can by irrigation be made exceedingly productive and
will afford a wide range of crops. Storage reservoirs for irrigation
are now being built by the U. S. Government in many places.
The cUmate of North America is prevailingly much more vari-
able than that of Europe. Between the arctic regions and the warm
district of the tropics, there are no mountain barriers, and the land
is so unbroken by true seas that the winter winds are not tempered
or obstructed in their movement. The result is that the summer
heat, even as far N. as the northernmost cultivated districts of Canada,
is great and commonly enduring, while the winter's cold occasion-
ally penetrates to the borders of the Gulf of Mexico, even S. Flor-
ida being liable to frosts of sufficient severity to destroy the more
sensitive tropical plants. The only portion of the United States which
has tolerably equable atmospheric conditions, is the coast belt of the
Pacific from San Francisco to the S. This region has a climate in
many ways resembling that of N. Africa.
The peculiarities of surface and of climate which result there-
from give rise in North America to certain classes of storms which
are little known in any other land. In the region of the Cordilleras
great whirling movements of the air arise in places where the baro-
meter is low, which move with considerable speed to the E. across
the country. Passing beyond the Atlantic coast-line, these great cir-
cular storms, which generally have a diameter of several hundred
miles, continue their way over the ocean, and often after a due time
appear on the coast of Europe. In the landward part of their jour-
ney these storms rarely have such severity as to damage property.
Ixxll XII. PHYSIOGRAPHY.
It often happens, however, especially during the spring season, that
on the S.E. face of these advancing cyclones, small but very intense
whirlings of the air are produced, which are known as tornadoes.
These accidents often give rise to winds of singular intensity, move-
ments of the air so energetic that they may disrupt the stoutest build-
ings, throw railway trains from the track, and by the upward rush
of the atmosphere in their centres lift the bodies of men and ani-
mals to the height of hundreds of feet above the earth. Fortunately
the paths of these tornadoes, or hurricanes, as they are locally called,
are relatively very narrow, and the distance to which they course in
their N.E. movement is short. The breadth of their destructive path
rarely exceeds half-a-mile, and the distance to which the destruction
is carried is generally less than twenty miles. Although occasional
visitations of this nature have been experienced throughout all the
United States to the E. of the Rocky Mountains, the district in
which they are really to be apprehended and where they are likely
to prove in a considerable measure destructive to life and property,
appears to be limited to the N. and central parts of the Mississippi
Valley, and the basin of the Ohio River north of Central Kentucky.
The waters of the Gulf of Mexico and of the neighbouring Carib-
bean Sea, as well as the shores of the mainland and islands of that
district, constitute a field where another class of air- whirlings, the
marine cyclones, also termed hurricanes, are frequently developed.
These storms are much more enduring and more powerful than those
formed upon the land ; they often march from the regions where they
are developed slowly up the Atlantic coast of the United States un-
til they gradually penetrate to a region of the sea where the air next
the surface is so cool that they no longer receive the impulse which
led to their development. These marine cyclones find their parallel
in similar atmospheric convulsions which affect the Indian Ocean and
the China Seas. In both realms the disturbance of the atmosphere
is due to the heated condition of the air next the surface of the
ocean, and its consequent upward movement into the upper parts of
the air. The whirling movement is the simple consequence of this
ascent of the air through a narrow channel. It finds its likeness in
the whirling imparted to the water in a wash - basin when it flows
through the opening in the bottom of the vessel.
Another class of atmospheric actions in a measure peculiar to
North America is found in the 'Cloud Bursts', or sudden torrential
rains, which occasionally occur in the E. portion of the Cordilleras.
In these accidents, though the region is on the whole arid, the rain
occasionally falls over an area of limited extent with such rapidity that
the air becomes almost unbreathable. and dry stream beds are in a
few minutes converted into raging torrents. Although in their charac-
teristic intensity these cloud bursts are limited to certain parts of the
W. mountain district, a conspicuously rapid precipitation occasionally
occurs in the more E. portion of the United States.
XII. PHYSIOGRAPHY. Ixxiii
In its original state, that in which it was found by the first En-
ropeans who landed on its shores, the E. part of North America was
the seat of the greatest forest of broad-leaved trees, intermingled with
pines and firs, which the world afforded. Although this noble Appa-
lachian forest has suffered much from axe and fire, it still in part
remains in its primseval state, forming a broad fringe of arboreal vege-
tation from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to Central Texas, extending
inland to the central portion of the Ohio Valley and up the Missis-
sippi to near its confluence with the Ohio and Missouri Rivers. To
the N. and W. of this great woodland lay a region of generally tree-
less plains. The district of the Cordilleras was scantily forested, and
along the Pacific Coast and on theW. slope of the Sierra Nevada, from
Central California to the N., extended noble forests of narrow-leaf
trees. Across the N. part of the continent the heavy growth of timber,
somewhat stunted by the severity of the climate, extended from the
Pacific to the Atlantic shores. As a whole the continent bore an am-
pler mantle of forest growth than any part of the old world beyond
the limits of the tropics.
The traveller who for the first time visits l!7orth America should take
care not to hamper his vision by preconceptions as to the beauty of natural
scenery based upon the physiography of the old world As a whole the
aspect of the N. continent of the new world differs greatly from that of
the old. In the former land there are none of those admirable combina-
tions of snow-clad mountains and fertile valleys which lend such a charm
to the scenery of Switzerland Id general the surface lacks those elements
of detail which contribute so much to the picturesque aspect of a land-
scape. The scenery of North America is generally characterized by a
largeness of mould and simplicity of outline dependent on the relatively
uncomplicated nature of its geological history. The plains are vast and
but little varied by elevations. The mountains of the Appalachian district
have a singular continuity in their ridges, which, though it gives them
a certain architectural beauty, deprives them of detail. The grander el-
evations of the Cordilleras, though attaining to about the altitude of the
Alps, rise from a much more elevated base than the Swiss mountains,
and therefore make a less striking impression upon the eye. At few points
on the continent do mountains or even considerable hills come near to
the coast, and the result is that the shore line has a monotony of aspect
which is much contrasted with the sea margin of Europe.
The lovers of picturesque beauty in nature may well seek in North
America the charm of its piimeeval forests, the beauty of its great plains
when they bear their spring-time flowers, and the attractions which are
presented by the greater rivers with their noble valleys and often marvel-
lous gorges. Of these canyons or defiles cut by the streams, those of the
Cordilleras are by far the greatest in the world. That of the Colorado and
that of the Yosemite, each in its way eminently peculiar, and differing one
from the other in origin and in aspect, are doubtless the most striking
features of the continent, for they are unequalled in any other land.
The history of the aborigines in North America shows that this con-
tinent was only moderately well fitted for the nurture of races in their
steps of passage from the primitive condition of man towards tlie ways of
civilization. Though a remarkably fertile region, and ahounding in game,
the land contains none of those fortunate peninsulas, or districts walled
about bv mountains or the sea, which in the old world have affo'ded such
admirable cradle- places for infant states. Thus it came to pass that in this
conntiy any tribe which attained some advance in civilization and became
worth plundering was subjected to unending incursions from the neigh-
bouring more savage folk. Only in Mexico and Central America did any
Ixxiv XIII. CLIMATE.
of the primitive tribes advance beyond the stages of barbarism. The better
fortune of those countries was probably due in the main to their more
secluded positions. Moreover in North America the primitive people found
no animals which were well suited for domestication or could render
much help to man. The only beast which gave much promise of such
aid, the bison, though a domesticable animal, has proved on the whole
intractable and unfit for the uses of man.
The united conditions of the continent which made it on the whole
unsuited for the nurture of peoples in the first stages of their advance has
been an advantage to the European folk who have been transplanted to
this part of the new world. The simple geographic character of the coun-
try has made access to its different parts relatively easy, and brought
about its subjugation to the uses of man with marvellous rapidity. Some
Rave feared that owing to the lack of diversities in the conditions of the
continent, the people developed upon it would have an excessive uniform-
ity in character and quality. The history of the populations, however,
seems to show that the variety in climate, in soil or under earth products,
and in the occupations which these features require of people, are suffi-
cient to ensure considerable difference in the folk developed in different
sections of the land. Under the mask of a common language, which,
though varied by provincial peculiarities, is a perfect means of communi-
cation among the greater part of the folk to the N. of Mexico, the acute
observer will detect varieties in essential quality quite as great as those
which separate the people who dwell in different parts of Great Britain,
France, or Germany. Though in some part these peculiarities may have
been due to the diverse origin of the folk, they are in the main to be
attributed to the efifects of the local conditions of climate and occupations.
It is evident that the climates of North America, except those parts
which have a subtropical character and the regions of the Far North which
are too cold for tillage, are admirably suited to the uses of the European
peoples from the states in the N. part of that continent. The descendants
of the colonies from England, France, and Germany planted on this soil
more than two centures ago between Florida and Labrador have all greatly
prospered. They have increased in numbers at a more rapid rate than
their kindred of the old world, their average life is as great if not greater,
and their endurance of labour of all kinds is in no wise diminished. The
history of the Civil War shows that in the essential qualities these men
of the new world have lost nothing of their primitive strength.
Fortunately for the transplanted population of America, the conditions
of soil, climate, and earth-resources permit the people to continue on the
ways of advancement in the occupations of life which were trodden by their
forefathers in the old world. The agriculture and the mechanic arts required
no change whatever on the part of the immigrants; the nature of the coun-
try seemed to welcome them to the new-found shores.
Xin. Climate and Climatic Eesorts of tlie United States,
by the late
Edmund Charles Wendt, M. D., of New YorTc.
Without some knowledge of the physical geography and topo-
graphy of a country, an intelligent appreciation of its climatic pe-
culiarities is not possible. This is particularly well seen in relation
to the climatology of the United States. Extending from well-nigh
arctic to almost subtropical regions, and from the level of the sea
to elevations of nearly 15,000 ft. ; icovering a vast expanse of partly
arid inland territory, and showing an enormous coast-line laved hy
two great oceans, it should not be surprising that every conceivable
variety of climate may be found within its borders.
Xni. CLIMATE. IxxY
As compared with Eniope, perhaps the most noteworthy feature
of the American climate consists in its greater range of temperature
and comparative dryness. The E. is also strikingly colder than the
W. coast as well as the European conntries of corresponding lat-
itudes. This circumstance has led to much confusion, and has given
the United States an undeserved reputation of being everywhere
colder than Europe. It is quite true that, if New York, for exam-
ple, be compared to cities of the same latitude, like Naples, Madrid,
and Constantinople , or if Boston be contrasted with Rome, the
American towns will be found decidedly colder. On the other hand
if cities on the W. coast, like San Francisco or Portland, be selected
for comparison, only trifling differences will appear.
Variations of Temperature. The mean annual temperature varies to
the extent of over 40° Fahr. in different parts of the Union. Extremes of
actually recorded temperatures extend from -5B° Fahr. to 121° Fahr. in the
shade, a range of 177°. Taking the mew n temperature of July as represent-
ing the hot season, we find in different sections of the country variations
of more than 30° — viz. from 60° to over 90° Fahr. Again taking Jan. as a
representative cold month, we find a range of over 50° — viz. from 10° Fahr.
to above 60°. l^ow it must not be forgotten that in the United States, perhaps
more than elsewhere, temperature and climate are not merely questions
of so many degrees of latitude. The lines for similar annual means (iso-
thermal lines) are considerably modified by ocean currents and winds,
besides being deflected by the interposition of lofty mountain-chains.
The Mountain Ranges. The two main ranges zxQfhQ Appalachian
System in the E. and the Cordilleran System (Rocky Mts. and
Sierra Nevada) in the W. As will be seen later on, the W. highlands
have a climate peculiar to themselves. They run from N.W. to S.E.
for nearly 5000 M., i.e. from Alaska to Mexico, and gradually
Appalacliian
to™- Atlaaitio
slope to the E., so as to fill in from one-third to one-half of-the
N. American continent. The E. or Appalachian system extends in
a S.W. direction from Nova Scotia to Alabama, a distance of over
1500 M. Its width averages hardly one-fifth, and the elevation of
its peaks and plateaux not one-half that of the "W. highlands. Hence
its effect on local climate is much less pronounced (Guyot). Be-
tween these great mountain ranges the vast Mississippi Basin
stretches out for thousands of miles, from truly arctic regions to the
warm waters of the Gulf of Mexico. This basin also includes the
Great Lake district, one of the prominent features of the N. states.
The climate of this region is controlled by the vast expanse of these
veritable 'inland oceans'.
Three Main Climatic Divisions. In accordance with the brief
description just given, we recognize three main climatic divisions
in the United States.
Ixivi XIII. CLIMATE.
1. An Eastern Region, extending from tke foot of the Rocky
Mts. to the Atlantic seaboard, and including the entire Appalachian
system.
2. The Plateau and Mountain Region of the Western Highlands.
3. The Pacific Slope, to the W. of the Sierra Nevada range.
The peculiarities of each region may be briefly stated as follows :
1. The Atlantic seaboard is moderately moist, and, in general, rather
equable. It is, however, subject to summer 'hot spells', and winter
'cold snaps' of a very trying kind. The altitude of the Appalachian
system is not sufficient to very materially affect the distribution of
heat, winds, and rainfall, so that the change is a gradual one, as
we approach the dry interior zone of the Great Mississippi Basia.
The latter region, about 1,245,000 sq. M. in extent, is in general
warm and moderately equable. Extensive forests supply adequate
moisture to the air, but where trees are sparse, the atmosphere be-
comes excessively dry. The Great Lakes temper this region on Ihe
N. and the Gulf of Mexico warms it on the S. Nevertheless Eu-
ropeans often complain both of great summer heat and extreme
winter cold; sensations which the thermometer rarely fails to jus-
tify. The numerous local departures from this general condition
cannot be considered here.
2. The Plateau and Mountain Region is dry and cold. The
higher peaks are Alpine in character. The great plateaus, situated
between the border chain of the Sierra Nevada and the Rocky Mts.,
are on an average 5000 ft. above sea-level. Some of them are fully
6000 ft. high. The climate there is harsh, cold, and very dry. It
is a common mistake, however, to suppose that these elevated jda-
teaux are merely barren wastes. Especially at the lower levels richly
fertile valleys are everywhere found to alternate with sandy treeless
tracts, salt lakes, and marshy wastes. That there are corresponding
differences in local climates can only be alluded to in this place.
During the height of summer the days are hot, but as soon as the
sun sets, the air grows chilly, and the nights are always cold.
3. The mountain slope of the Pacific is characterized by ab-
ruptness and great irregularity. Its climate is varied. The narrow
strip bordering on the ocean is much warmer, more humid, and
very decidedly more equable than corresponding interior latitudes
and the Atlantic coast. This Pacific section is farther distinguished
by a well-marked wet season, corresponding to the E. winter, and
an equally well-defined dry season, corresponding to the E. summer.
Moreover, cool summers and mild winters, as well as the complete
absence of those extreme variations, which elsewhere mar the cli-
mate of the States, render the Pacific coast pleasantly conspicuous.
It is here that some of the most popular winter and summer health
resorts have been established.
Some Special Features. In regard to temperature, it is signi-
ficant that, in spite of the wide range of the thermometer, something
Xm. CLIMATE. Ixxvii
like 98 per cent of the entire population inhabit those regions in
which the annual means extend from 40° to 70° Fahr. only. Roughly
calculated, therefore, the average annual temperature of the whole
United States is 55 ° Fahr. But foreigners are of course more in-
terested in the extremes of heat and cold, which are disagreeably
perceptible in almost all the states. The most delightful season of
the year is unquestionably the so-called 'Indian summer', i.e. the
few autumn weeks which precede the actual onset of winter. It
would be difflf'.ult to imagine anything more exhilarating than the
crisp air, brilliant sunshine, clear blue skies, and grateful temp-
erature characterizing the closing days of an 'Indian summer' at
its best.
The summer temperature is everywhere higher than in Europe,
with the exception of certain districts on the Pacific slopes already
alluded to. The hottest regions of the country are naturally the
southernmost parts of the southernmost states (Florida, Alabama,
Louisiana, etc.). Here the annual mean rises to 75° Fahr., which
is almost that of tropical climes. In the valley of the Lower Colo-
rado, in California and Arizona, the summer mean rises to 90° Fahr.
In Texas temperatures of 110°, and in Arizona and parts of Califor-
nia of 115°, are no great rarity, and yet here the great dryness of
the atmosphere makes the heat seem less oppressive than in humid
regions at a much lower range of temperature. In almost aU the
states of the Union several extremely hot days are to be looked for
every summer. And in the more prolonged 'hot spells' the mortality
from heat-stroke and diarrhceal diseases becomes alarming to a degree
quite unknown in Europe. The severity of the winter is most felt
in the elevated parts of New England, the higher plains of N. Minne-
sota and Dakota, and the lofty mountain plateaux of the Rockies.
There the usual mean may descend below 40° Fahr. In upper
Minnesota the winter mean is only 10° Fahr. On the whole, it
may be said that American winters are more severe than those of
Europe, always excepting, of course, the S. states. In the Atlantic
and Middle states the winter is generally steady. Ice and snow may
be counted on during one-half of the three coldest winter months.
But to the W. of the Mississippi great irregularities are experienced.
Mild and open periods there alternate with intense cold and violent
storms. As we approach the Pacific increased mildness is observed.
Continuous snow and ice are unknown along the whole W. coast
from Vancouver to San Diego. Moreover, the temperature is so
equable there that the winter mean is only 5-15° below that of
summer. In the S. occasional cold storms are experienced, although
the thermometer at New Orleans, for example, rarely descends below
the freezing point. Yet the S. winter is fitful and at times trying.
It begins and ends early, lasting from about Nov, until February.
But there is absolutely no periodicity in the various irregularities ob-
served, so that elaborate calculations based on averages may be rudely
Ixxviii Xm. CLIMATE.
upset by the eccentricity of certain seasons. It is always well to be
prepared for 'any kind of weather' in the United States.
Eainfall. The rainfall is quite unevenly distributed through
the United States. In the E. section it is abundant, while the great
W. plains and prairies are often parched with prolonged drought.
This has led to the general employment there of irrigation, without
which agriculture could not flourish. In the strip along the Pacific
coast a very plentiful precipitation occurs. The heaviest deposit of
rain takes place in the borderlands of the Gulf, namely the S. parts
of Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama, the E. part of Texas, and
the W. coast of Florida. The annual quantity of water amounts to
about 65 inches there. But at Philadelphia it is 45 inches, and at
Chicago only about 30. All over the E. the rainfall is abundant in
spring and summer. It usually occurs in heavy showers, often ac-
companied by violent electrical discharges. On the Pacific coast, apart
from the regularly recurring winter rains, little or no precipitation
of water takes place. But at a short distance inland profuse summer
rains are again observed. In the mountainous highlands heavy winter
snows augment the annual volume of watery precipitation. The
most arid tracts of the United States are in "W. Arizona, S. Nevada,
and S.E. California. The annual rainfall there descends from 15 to
8 inches and less. Broadly speaking the United States may be said
to be favoured by an abundance of rain, with a relatively small pro-
portion of rainy days. Fogs occur in the seaboard states, but they
are neither as frequent nor as heavy as those known in many Europ-
ean countries.
Winds. The prevailing winds of the United States are westerly,
like those of other countries situated in middle latitudes. Around
the Gulf of Mexico the main current of the atmosphere moves in an
E. or S.E, direction. Along the Atlantic coast region the predom-
inating winds are S.W. in summer, and N.W. in winter. In a
large S.W. district, including Nebraska, Kansas, Colorado, Arkansas,
Texas, New Mexico, Utah, and Arizona, the summer winds come
from the S. , and the winter winds have a N. direction. In the region
of the Rocky Mountains the winds are so irregular that none of them
can be said to be 'prevalent'. In the tract between the Mississippi
and the Appalachian ranges, both summer and winter winds are
S.W. and W. It may be borne in mind that in the United States
the S.W. winds blow over an expanse of warm water, while the N.E.
winds hail from a frigid ocean, and the N.W. from frozen deserts.
Storms and Blizzards. The regularly recurring winter storms
are most violent on the E. seaboard. The term 'blizzard' is em-
ployed to denote the blinding snow-storms with intense cold and high
winds, which have their true home only in the W. but which are
sometimes observed in the Atlantic States.
Xni. CLIMATIC RESORT. Ixxix
Climatic Hesorts.
The custom of spending tlie winter in the South and the summer
at the seaside has nowhere assumed more formidable proportions
than in the United States, and a few of the more important climatic
resorts are named and characterized below. Comp. also the notices
throughout the Handbook.
WiNTEB. Resorts. The best known winter-stations are in Flor-
ida, California, the Carolinas, Georgia, and Virginia. A large pro-
portion of the invalids visiting these regions are the victims of
consumption, but sufferero from gout, rheumatism , neurasthenia,
chlorosis, anaemia, diseases of the kidneys , affections of the heart,
insomnia, chronic bronchitis, asthma, and over-work are often sig-
nally benefited by a stay at one or other of the resorts named below.
In making one's choice of a winter's residence, the factor of accom-
modation should not be lost sight of; and it may be stated generally
that the sanitary arrangements of American health-resorts are far
superior to most places of the kind in Europe. In some of the hotels
every conceivable modern comfort and luxury are provided (corap.
pp. 524, 539, 617).
In Florida (RR. 103-108) the temperature is equable, the at-
mosphere is neither too dry nor too moist, the sunshine abundant,
and the soil sandy. Consumptives do well there, especially in the
early stages of the disease. The only drawback is the possibility of
malaria ; but the dangers arising from this source have been grossly
exaggerated. — Southern California has, perhaps, the most delight-
ful climate in the world (comp. p. 532). The air is genially warm
and dry, yet not enervating as in more tropical climates, and more
salubrious general conditions can nowhere be found. Santa Barbara
(p. 527), Los Angeles (p. 532), and San Diego (Coronado Beach;
pp. 537-539) are among the chief resorts, the first named showing
the least variation between the day and night temperatures and a
very low relative humidity. At San Diego the coast-winds are some-
times inconvenient for invalids with throat-troubles. San Bernar-
dino (p. 485) and the attractive town of Riverside (p. 486) lie more
inland and have a rather bracing, but not irritating, climate, which
some consumptives find more beneficial than that of other Cali-
fornian resorts. Monterey (p. 524), Santa Cruz (p. 520), Pasadena
(p. 536), Redondo (p. 536), and San Rafael (p. 517) have all
their special advantages. — Thomasville (p. 612) , in Georgia,
and Aiken (p. 606), in South Carolina, are much frequented by
weak-chested persons , who find benefit in the balsamic fragrance
of their pine forests. The advantages of Asheville, North Carolina,
have been sufficiently indicated at p. 599. Old Point Comfort
(p. 563), Virginia Beach (p. 562), and Newport News (p. 561) , in
Virginia, are fashionable intermediate stations for invalids on their
way back to the North. — Lakewood (p. 179), lu New Jersey, and
Cumberland Oap Park, in Tennessee (comp. p. 577), are also favour-
ixxx XIY. FINE ARTS.
ably known. — Colorado Springs (comp. p. 489), Manitou (p. 490),
and Saranac Lake (p, 107) are the chief resorts for the high-alti-
tude treatment of consumption.
Summer Resorts. Newport (p. 248), Nahant (p. 280), New Lon-
don (p. 242), Narragansett Pier (p. 243), Bar Harbor (p. 294), Long
Branch (p. 178), Atlantic City (p. 180), Cape May (p. 181), and
parts of Long Island (p. 79) are the most fashionable Seaside Re-
sorts. Sea-bathing in the United States differs somewhat from Brit-
ish and Continental practices. Permanent bath-houses on the beach
take the place of bathing-coaches, and the Institution of bathing
masters is almost unknown. Men and women bathe together. The
temperature of the water of the Atlantic Ocean in summer is so
warm (often exceeding 70° Fahr.), that bathers frequently remain
in it an hour or more, apparently without harm.
The chief Mountain Resorts are in the Catskills (p. 97), the
Adirondacks (p. 104), the White Mts. (p. 320), the Green Mts.
(p. 315), the Berkshlres (p. 337), and the Alleghenies (p. 566, etc.).
The United States contains nearly 9000 Mineral Springs. While,
however, these waters are chemically equal to any in the world, it
must be admitted that their scientific employment for the cure of
disease has not hitherto been developed as at the famous European
spas. Saratoga Springs (p. 119) has, perhaps, the best claim to
ranking with the latter in its mode of life and methods of treatment.
The celebrated Hot Springs, Arkansas, are described at p. 590.
Among the most popular Sulphur Springs are Blount Springs (Ala.),
Blue Lick Sprivgs (Ky.1, White Sulphur Springs (p. 5b6). Sharon
(p. 96), Mt. Clemens (p. 362), and Richfield Springs (p. 131). —
Good Iron Waters are found at Sharon (p. 96), Schooley's Mt.
(p. 140) , and Milford (N. H.). — Crab Orchard (Ky.) , Bedford
(p. 190), and Saratoga (p. 119) have good Purgative Springs. —
Among well-known Thermal Waters are those of the Hot Springs^
Arkansas (see above), San Bernardino (p. 485), Calistoga (p. 518).
Klamath Springs (p. 505), and Salt Lake (p. 503).
XIV. The Fine Arts in America.
a. Painting and Sculpture,
by
William A. Coffin.
Marvellous progress in the fine arts has been made in the
United States since the Centennial Exhibition at Philadelphia in
1876, when popular interest in Art received a decided impulse;
and for twenty years thereafter the influx of American artists re-
turning in large numbers from study in the European art centres,
principally from Paris, had a strongly marked influence on the ten-
dencies of the American school. Now, however, it shows a distinc-
XIV. FINE ARTS. Ixxxl
tive character of its own. Before proceeding, however, to the con-
sideration of the conditions in which American art stands before the
public at the present day, it is pertinent to give briefly some account
of its earlier history.
Previous to the Revolutionary period we find a Scottish artist
named John Watson painting portraits in Philadelphia about 1715,
and another Scotsman, John Smybert, similarly occupied in Boston
from 1725 to 1751. John Singleton Copley, born in Boston in 1737,
began to paint portraits there about 1751. He went to London sub-
sequently, became a Royal Academician in 1779, and died in London
in 1815. He painted many celebrities of his time in the Colonies,
and his works are among those most highly valued in early American
art. Benjamin West, born at Swarthmore, Pennsylvania, in 1738,
painted portraits in Philadelphia in 1756, went to Italy in 1760, and
thence to London in 1763. He was elected president of the Royal
Academy on the death of Sir Joshua Reynolds in 1792. He died in
London in 1820, and his v/orks, both portraits and compositions,
are to be found in collections in the United States and England. One
of his most celebrated pictures, 'Death on the Pale Horse', belongs
to the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts in Philadelphia, and the
Boston Museum possesses his 'King Lear', another notable work.
Charles Wilson Peak (1741-1827), who was a colonel in the Con-
tinental army, painted portraits of Washington (see pp. 62, 163, 324)
and other men of the time that are of historical and artistic interest,
John Trumbull (1756-1843), son of Jonathan Trumbull, Colonial
Governor of Conuecticut, a graduate of Harvard and (like Peale) a
colonel in the army who had previously given his attention to the
art of painting, gave up his commission and went to London to study
under West. He is best known as a painter of military pictures re-
presenting the battles of the Revolution and the French and English
war in Canada, but also painted numerous portraits and miniatures.
An interesting collection of his works belongs to the Yale University
(see p. 236 and also p. 214).
Gilbert Stuart, born at Narragansett , Rhode Island, in 1755, is
the most famous of all the portrait-painters of the Revolutionary
period, and his work compares very favourably with that of his con-
temporaries in Europe. He was a pupil of West in London and
returned to America in 1792. He settled in Boston, after painting
portraits two years in New York, Philadelphia, and Washington, and
died there in 1828. The best portraits of Washington are those from
his hand, and the list of his other portraits is a long one, including
many of the best known men in the first Congresses of the United
States and military and civic dignitaries. Portraits by Stuart are in
the collections at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston (p. 266) 5 at the
Metropolitan Museum (pp. 62, 63), the Lenox Library (p. 50j, and
the New York Historical Society (p. 54), New York; and at the
Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts, Philadelphia (p. 166). John
Baedkker'8 United States. 4tli Edit. f
Ixxxil XIV. FINE ARTS.
Vcmderlyn (1776-185!i) and Thomas Sully (an Englishman wlio came
to America at an early age; 1783-1872) were portrait- painters of
note contemporary with Stuart and Trumbull. Washington Allston^
born in South Carolina in 1779 and a graduate of Harvard in the
class of 1800, went to London to study in the schools of the Royal
Academy in 1801. He settled in Boston in 1818, and painted histor-
ical and religious subjects as well as portraits. One of the best of
his works is the 'Jeremiah' in the Yale University collection (p. 236),
and there are others at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts (p. 266).
Samuel F. B. Morse (1791-1872), the inventor of the telegraph, who
graduated at Yale in 1810 and was a pupil of AUston, devoted him-
self to painting in the beginning of his career in the first quarter
of last century. His portrait of Lafayette is in the City Hall, New
York (p. 38).
On the 8th of November, 1825, a number of young artists and
students in New York established the New York Drawing Association.
On the 16th of January, 1826, they chose from their number fifteen
artists who were directed to choose fifteen others, and the thirty thus
selected constituted a new society which was called the National
Academy of Design. Among the first fifteen of these founders of
the Academy were Thomas S. Cummings, William Dunlap^ Asher B.
Durand^ and Henry Inman. Among the second fifteen were Thomas
Cole, William Jewett, Rembrandt Peale, John Vanderlyn, and Samuel
Waldo. Thomas Cole was the first American landscape-painter,
and Dnrand and Thomas Doughty were prominent among those who
followed his lead in taking up this branch of painting. Inman
was a noted portrait-painter, as were Waldo and Jewett, Yanderlyn
(who has already been mentioned), and Rembrandt Peale. In the
years following the founding of the Academy O. P. A. Eealey (who
went to Paris to study under Baron Gros and Couture), Thomas Ros-
siter and William Hunt of Boston (pupils of Couture), William Page,
Daniel Huntington, Charles L. Elliott, and Robert W. Weir among
others gained wide reputations as portrait and figure painters, and
in landscape John F. Kensett and 5. R. Gifford became especially
famous. Some of the contemporaries and the immediate successors
in point of historical sequence of these men, elected to membership
in the Academy or chosen as Associates, from about the middle of
the forties to the beginning of the seventies, form what is sometimes
referred to as the 'Older School' of American painters. The Academy
held its eighty-third annual exhibition in the spring of 1908.
In sculpture the first American artists to be noted are John Frazee,
Hiram Powers, a^nd Horatio Greenough, one of whose representative
works is the equestrian statue of Washington in Smithsonian Institu-
tion at Washington (p. 221). Thomas Crawford, Randolph Rogers,
Thomas Ball, W. W. Story, and Henry K. Brown, whose equestrian
statues of Washington in Union Square, New York (p. 42), and of
General Scott at Washington (p. 226) are especially worthy of mention
XIV. FINE ARTS. Ixxxiii
among the achievements of the earlier American sculptors, should
be grouped with Frazee, Powers, and Greenough, though they are
chronologically later. This summary brings us to the period uniting
the old and new, the time when American art, having made for
itself a dignified place in the national civilization, was conservative
in its processes and faithful to time-honoured traditions and had not
yet felt to any appreciable degree the influences of the great revival
that followed the appearance of Delacroix and Gericault, the famous
men of 1830, and the Fontainebleau group in France. We find
Huntington, Baker, Le Clear, Eastman Johnson, Hicks, and others
prominent as portrait-painters; Guy, J. 0. Brown, Henry, Loop,
Mayer, and Wilmarth, noted painters of figure subjects ; F. E. Church,
Bierstadt, Blakelock, Cropsey, Bellows, Whittredge, Thos. Moran, Be
Haas, David Johnson, James M. Hart, Wm. Hart, McEntee, Homer
Martin, Wyant, and Inness, the chief painters of landscapes, marines,
and cattle-pieces, and J. Q. A. Ward and Launt Thompson, the
sculptors of the day. We find in their work sincerity of purpose,
much artistic feeling, and individuality. Except in a few cases,
such as that of Inness, there is little to show that their art had
developed under other than indigenous influences.
American art at the present time, broadly speaking, means art
in New York, for though there is much that is of value produced in
Boston and Philadelphia and something worth noting here and there
in some other cities, the best work of the artists in these places is
usually seen in New York. In considering the modern 'Movement'
in New York it is fair to say that we cover the whole country, and
the condition of the fine arts in the United States may be measured
by applying the gauge to what is to be seen in New York. If a few
individual factors be thus omitted, it does not affect the test as a
whole. It was in 1877 and 1878 that the first of a little band of
artists that has now grown into an army almost, and has sometimes
been styled the 'New School' and sometimes the 'Younger Men', made
their appearance in New York and excited public interest by their
work at the Academy exhibitions. They came from their studies in
Paris and Munich and with characteristic American promptitude
founded a society of their own. Some of the home artists who were
in sympathy with their aims joined with them, and the new society
called the American Art Association was formed at a meeting held
in New York on June 1st, 1877, at which Augustus Saint-Gaudens
(d. 1908), Wyatt Eaton, Walter Shirlaw, and Mrs. R. W. Gilder
were present; and before the first exhibition was held in the spring
of 1878 the names of the following artists, among others, were
placed on the roll of the society : Olin L. Warner, R. Swain Gifford,
Louis C. Tiffany, J. Alden Weir, Homer D. Martin, John La Farge,
William Sartain,W. H. Low, A. H.Wyant, R. C. Minor, and George
Inness, The name of the organization was changed in 1878 to the
Society of American Artists, and it was incorporated under that title
f*
Ixxxiv XIV. FINE ARTS.
in 1882. It held exhibitions in New York every spring from 1878
to 1907 with the exception of 1885. Its discarded title, the Ame-
rican Art Association, was assumed by a business company, which
conducts sales of collections and deals in works of art. The yearly
exhibitions of the Society soon came to be considered the most
interesting of all those held in the United States. It maintained a
high staudard, not only encouraging the 'rising men', but also hold-
ing the allegiance of those who had achieved a high reputation. Its
competition with the Academy had a most wholesome effect in
raising the standard of the latter's exhibitions. For the last 10 or
15 years, however, so many painters were members of both institu-
tions, that the two became in a sense but one, though holding sepa-
rate exhibitions. This eventually led to a very natural combination
in April, 1908, when the Society ceased to exist as a separate body
and aU its members became members of the Academy. In the early
nineties the Society had secured, in connection with the Architec-
tural League of New York and the Art Students' League, a per-
manent home and spacious galleries in the building of the Amer-
ican Fine Arts Society (the executive organization of the alliance)
at No. 215 W. 5Tth St. ; and since the union of the two bodies the
exhibitions of the Academy have been held here (the so-called
Annual Exhibition in Mar(;h or April, the Winter Exhibition in
December or January). The home building of the Academy, with
studios and galleries for its permanent collections, is in Amsterdam
Ave. (see p. 55).
A high standard of excellence is maintained at the exhibitions
of the Academy and the visitor will see at either of them a collection
of works that may justly be ranked with the corresponding displays
of Europe, though the exhibitions are much smaller than those of
London or Paris. It must be pointed out here that the National
Academy of Design is a body composed of professional artists only
(painters, sculptors, engravers, and architects) and not a lay insti-
tution governed by laymen, like the Pennsylvania Academy, the Art
Institute of Chicago, the Carnegie Institute at Pittsburg, or the
Worcester Academy. The National Academy of Design holds what
may be called 'first-year' exhibitions, i.e. works are sent to it by the
artists from their studios for their first appearance in public, whereas
at Philadelphia, Chicago, Pittsburg, and other cities, the exhibi-
tions, though sometimes larger and more comprehensive, are made
up in a great part of works that have been shown in New York. These
institutions do a commendable service for art by using funds to bring
from Europe productions of American artists abroad, and at Pittsburg
the works of foreign artists also are thus included.
The number of painters and sculptors whose work is regularly
admitted to the Academy Exhibitions (passing its juries being about
the only national test of importance that exists) is far too large to
permit mentioning more than a few whose reputations are wellestab-
XIV. FINE ARTS Ixxxv
lished. Among the prominent painters of figure subjects and por-
traits are Winsloio Homer, Chase, Brush, Thayer, Wiles, Dewing,
Tarbell, Benson, Vinton, Beckwith, Aldtn Weir, F. C. Jones, Curran,
Alexander, Du Mond, Eakins, Loeb, Kendall, Smedley, Volk, Isham,
Hyde, Cashing, Thome, Ballin, Lockwood, De Camp, Glackens,
Davies, Henri, and Cecilia Beaux. Notable among the painters of
landscapes, marines, and cattle-pieces are Tryon, Horatio Walker,
C. H. Davis, Kost, Hassam, Foster, Ochtman, Murphy, Crnne, Metcalf,
Banger, H. B. Jones, Carlsen, Birge Harrison, Dearth, Redfield,
Wiggins, Dessar, Howe, Schofield, Woodbury, and Norton. The
American painters who reside abroad frequently exhibit in New
York, and the works of Sargent, Abbey, Gay, Alex. Harrison, Dannat,
Melchers, Bridgman, McEwen, Pearce, and others are nearly as well
known at home as in Europe. J. A. McNeill Whistler (p. 313) was
a strong personality in this contingent. The principal sculptors are
Ward, French, Bartlett, Adams, Barnard, MacNeiL, Grafly, MacMon-
nies. Bitter, Dallin, Hartley, Proctor, Taft, Martiny, Konti, and
Calder. The American painters are versatile, and landscapes are
often seen by figure men and vice versa. The small number of sub-
ject pictures and historical compositions from the Exhibitions is
explained by the fact that many of the ablest figure painters devote
themselves almost entirely to mural painting. The rise of this branch
of the 'fine arts' in the past fifteen years constitutes one of the phe-
nomena of American art, many public buildings throughout the
country containing elaborate pictorial decoration, while the sculpture
both inside and outside is no less remarkable. Hotels, banks, and
private-residences are also elaborately decorated. Blashfield, Mow-
bray, La Farge, Low, H. 0. Walker, Simmons, Cox, Reid, Turner,
Millet, and Maynard are a few of the best known 'mural painters'.
It is fair to say that American art as a whole stands on a level
with the best art of to-day in Europe in technical merit and rivals
it in individuality. At the Paris Expositions of 1889 and 1900 the
American Section was conceded by critics to rank second only to
that of France, a judgment affirmed by the jury of awards. At the
World's Fairs of Chicago in 1893 and St. Louis in 1904, where the
home sections were the largest, comparisons were equally favour-
able. At the Pan-American Exposition at Buffalo in 1901, where
there was no European art and the United States galleries contained
what the jury of awards characterized in its report as 'the best col-
lection of American Art ever brought together', visitors were amazed
at the high level of achievement attained by the painters and sculp-
tors of the native school. This excellence would be much more
generally understood if there were suitable galleries for an annual
exhibition in New York comprehensive enough and large enough to
impress the public. In the present situation the efforts of the artists
are too much scattered, and a great geBeral gathering is needed to
secure full appreciation.
Ixxxvl XIV. FINE ARTS.
With the two Academy Exhibitions, the two water-colour shows, the
Architectural League exhibition (which includes decoration and arts and
crafts), the 'group" and 'independenf exhibitions, the 'one man shows", the
portrait exhibitions by visiting portrait painters from Europe, the exhibi-
tions at the Lotos, Union League, and the Arts Clubs, there is a constant
succession of interesting displays in New York from October to May, three
or four being often in progress at the same time. The Club Exhibitions
afford opportunities to see the works of the American 'classics', such as
Copley and Stuart, and the celebrated trio of landscape painters, Inness,
Wyant, and 3Iar»in, with an occasional "Whistler, George Fuller, or Blake-
lock. The permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum includes some
excellent example? of American art, and the Fifth Avenue dealers exhibit
collections of modern European art and 'old masters'.
In Philadelphia annual exhibitions of American art are held at the
Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts (foimded in 1805), and the per-
manent collections are valuable and interefting. Exhibitions are also held
by the Art Club of Philadelphia and by the Philadelphia Society of Artists.
In Boston the collections of the JIusenm of Fine Arts are of great value
both from the artistic and the historical standpoint, and exhibitions of the
work of Americjin art'sts are given each season by the Boston Art Club,
the Copley Society, and other societies. In most of the larger cities, such
as Chici.go, St. Louis, Pittsburg, and Cincinnati, and in many towns in
the East and West there are ait institutions and schools, and exhibitions
to which New York artists are among the contributors are held at regular
periods.
Comp. 'History of American Painting', by Samuel Isham (illus.; 1907)
and 'The History of American Sculpture', by Lorado Toft (illus.; 19C3).
b. Architecture,
by
Montgomery Schuyler.
The sources of the settlement of the United States were so many
and so various that we should expect to find a corresponding variety
in the huilding of the colonies. As a matter of fact, however, hy the
time the settlements upon the Atlantic seahoard had hecome suf-
ficiently estahlished to project durable or pretentious buildings, the
English influence had become predominant, and the colonists took
their fashions from England in architecture as in other things. The
Spanish settlements within the present limits of the United States
were unimportant compared with those farther to the South. The
trifling remains of Spanish building in Florida and Louisiana are not
to be compared with the monuments erected by the Spaniards in
Mexico, where some of the churches in size and costliness and elab-
oration of detail are by no means unworthy examples of the Spanish
Renaissance of the 17th century. The only considerable town on the
Atlantic coast that is not of English origin is New York, which was
already a place of some importance when the New Netherlands were
ceded to Great Britain by the treaty of Breda in 1667. It was built
in the then prevailing fashion of Holland. The 'Flemish Renaissance',
which has lately appealed to English architects as containing valuable
suggestions for modern building, did not impress the new masters
of New Amsterdam. The crow-stepped gables and steep tiled roofs
of the Dutch settlers were displaced by dwellings and warehouses of
XIV. FINE ARTS. Ixxxvii
English architecture executed by English mechanics. It is unlikely
that any specimen of Dutch architecture was erected, either in New
York or in Albany (which retained its Dutch characteristics longer),
after the beginning of the 18th century. There are now no Dutch
buildings left in New York , and the last in Albany has lately been
demolished. There are, however, here and there Dutch farmhouses
left on Long Island and in New Jersey; the Yan Cortlandt manor-
house still stands at Oroton on the Hudson (see p. 70) ; a manor-
house of the Van Rensselaers, patroons of Eensselaerswyck, has been
re-erected at Williamstown (p. 343), whither it was recently removed
from Albany; there is an occasional Dutch church in the oldest parts
of New York State and New Jersey ; and part of the Phillipse manor-
house, now the City Hall of Yonkers (p. 86), is of Dutch architecture.
These relics are all of the 17th century and are interesting rather
historically than architecturally.
The public buildings of the colonial period were mainly churches,
and these, where they were more than mere 'meeting-houses', were
imitated from the churches of Sir Christopher Wren and his successors.
Of these St. Michael's (p. 604), built in 1752 in Charleston, is the
most conspicuous and perhaps the most successful. Burke, in his
'Account of the European Settlements in America' (1757), says of
it: 'the church is spacious and executed in very handsome taste, ex-
ceeding everything of that kind which we have in America'. The
design is attributed, on the strength of a contemporaneous news-
paper paragraph, to 'Mr. Gribson', but this is probably a mistake for
Mr. Gibbs, the architect of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields in London and
the Radcliffe Library at Oxford, being at the time one of the most
successful of English architects and perhaps the most distinguished
of the immediate followers of "Wren. The resemblances between
St. Michael's and St. Martin's tend to strengthen this conjecture.
St. Paul's (p. 37) in New York (1756) was the most important of
the colonial churches of the city and in style resembles St. Michael's,
being ultimately inspired by Wren's city churches in London.
A local tradition refers the design of the College of William and
Mary (p. 562), at Williamsburg, Va., to Sir Christopher Wren him-
self, but the architecture scarcely bears out the legend. It is, however,
in Virginia and in Maryland that the colonial architecture is seen at
its best. The great tobacco-planters of those colonies formed a real
landed gentry, such as could scarcely be said to exist in any other of
the colonies, excepting the holders of manorial grants on the Hudson
River, who were much fewer in numbers. The farmers of New Eng-
land and Pennsylvania were a yeomanry and there were very few
landed proprietors in New England who could rival the scale of living
of the tobacco-planters, whose ebtates and agricultural operations were
extensive, whose habits were hospitable and commonly extravagant,
and who lived up to their easily acquired incomes. They possessed
real 'seats', and these are the most pretentious and the most interest-
Ixxxvili XIV. FINE ARTS.
ing examples of colonial domestic arcMtectTue. Such mansions as
Brandon, Shirley, and "Westover in Yirginia (see pp. 561, 560), and
Homewood and Whitehall in Maryland, testify to a high degree not
only of social refinement on the part of their owners hnt of skill on the
part of the artisans who hnilt them, for the profession of architecture
was almost if not quite unknown to the colonies. The architecture
of these mansions consisted in a simple, almost invariahly symmetrical
composition, often a centre with wings connected with it hy a curtain
wall, in a careful and generally successful proportioning of these
parts and of the stories, which were usually two and very rarely more
than three, and in the refined though conyentional design and skilful
execution of the detail, especially of the detail in woodwork. The
porch was the feature of the front, and in houses of much pretension
generally exhihited an order, consisting of a pair of columns sustain-
ing an entahlature and a pediment. The hricks were imported from
England, or often, in the northern colonies, from Holland, and stone
was sparingly employed. Many of the country seats of the landed
gentry have "been piously preserved, hut in towns the colonial houses
have been for the most part destroyed. Annapolis (p. 209), in Mary-
land, named after Princess Anne, has heen left on one side by the
march of improvement and remains to show many specimens of the
Georgian architecture, which still give it a strong resemblance to an
English town that has remained inactive for a century.
The colonial architecture continued to prevail after the close of
the politically colonial period. The first Capitol of the United States
at Washington was a very good specimen of it, although the design
of it has been obscured by the later additions in a different taste.
Although the plan which was accepted was the work of an amateur,
to whom the design of the building was really due, the work of con-
struction was assigned to a trained architect later. At the instigation
of Jefferson, then President and himself a dabbler in architecture, the
architect attempted to compose an 'American order' by conventionaliz-
ing the foliage of plants peculiar to this continent. Some of the
capitals engendered by this essay are to be seen in the interior of
the Capitol (p. 216), but it is upon the whole fortunate that no attempt
was made to employ them in the exterior decoration. The building
was burned by the British in 1814, but was rebuilt with additions
and variations during the next decade. To the same period belong the
State House of Massachusetts at Boston, the City Hall of New York, and
the Merchants' Exchange of Philadelphia, all specimens of educated
and discreet architecture, as it was at that time understood in Europe.
The inspiration of these works and of others like them was dis-
tinctly Roman. The Greek revival that was stimulated in Europe by
the publication of Stuart's work on Athens was somewhat belated in
reaching the United States, where the Roman Renaissance of Wren
and his successors was in full possession. The Grecian temple was
adopted at the national capital as the model of a modern public
XrV. FINE ARTS. Ixxxix
building about 1835 , with such modiflcations as were compelled by
practical requirements. The Treasury, of the Ionic order, the Doric
building of the Interior Department, commonly called the Patent
Office, and the Corinthian General Post Office were among the first
fruits of this cult. From Washington it gradually spread over the
United States, Girard College (p, 169) at Philadelphia and the Sub-
Treasury and the Custom House at New York being among the finest
and most monumental of the American reproductions. For the next
15 years the Grecian temple in stone or brick was commonly adopted
for churches as well as for public buildings, while it was reproduced
in wood for dwellings of architectural pretensions, either in town or
country. In 1851 the extension of the Capitol at Washington was
begun. It consists of two wings, fronted with Corinthian colonnades,
making the extreme length of the building 750 feet, and the addition
of a central dome of cast iron, which attains the disproportionate
height of over 300 feet and is, in other respects, not very successfully
adjusted to the building which it crowns. The Capitol thus com-
pleted became the model for American public buildings. Nearly all
the State Houses have followed its general disposition and have in-
cluded a lofty dome.
Although there are some earlier churches in a style which the
designers of them believed to be Gothic, the Gothic revival in the
United States may be said to have begun with the erection of Trinity
Church (p. 36) in New York in 1846, which remains, perhaps, the
most admirable piece of ecclesiastical architecture in that city. Within
a few years thereafter Gothic had almost entirely superseded classic
architecture as a style for churches, although in commercial buildings
the models of the Renaissance were preferred, and these were imitated
in fronts of cast-iron to an extent quite unknown elsewhere. The
Gothic designers, however, insisted upon the applicability of their
style to all uses and made many essays of more or less interest, in
public, commercial, and domestic building, of which there are
examples in all the Atlantic cities.
Up to this time, although among the leading American architects
were Germans and Frenchmen as well as Englishmen, and an in-
creasing proportion of native designers who had made their studies
at the Ecole des Beaux Arts, or in the offices of Continental architects,
the architecture of the country had upon the whole been a faint and
belated reflection of the current architecture of England. This con-
tinued to be the case during a brief season of experiments with
'Queen Anne'. But at this time there arose an American architect
whose personal force, manifested for the most part in his own fr©«
version of the Southern French Romanesque, very deeply impresses-
his contemporaries and his successors and greatly affected the build-
ing of the whole country. This was Mr. H. H. Richardson (1838-86),
who came into a national celebrity with the completion of Trinity
Church, Boston, in 1877, when the author was thirty-nine years old.
xc XIV. FINE ARTS.
In the nine years of Life that remained to him, he made such an im-
pression npon his profession that almost every American town hears
traces of his influence. His own most noteworthy works, hesides
Trinity, are the county-huildings at Pittshurg (p. 198) , the Senate
Chamber, the Court of Appeals, and the Western Staircase of the
Capitol of New York at Albany (p. 93), the Albany City HaU (p. 94),
the Cincinnati Chamber of Commerce (p. 406), Sever Hall and Austin
HaU at Cambridge (pp. 271, 272), and a warehouse in Chicago (p. 375).
As might have been expected, he has had many imitators, but the
extent and the value of his services to American architecture are best
seen in the work of architects who have recognized the force that lay
in his simple and large treatment, and have recognized also that the
force of this treatment was independent of the detail he employed
and of the style in which he worked. This lesson has been learned
and applied by the architects of many of the towering 'elevator build-
ings' erected for commercial purposes, which are so marked features
of the American cities , and are the unique contribution of American
architects to their art. The earliest of the elevator buildings were the
"Western Union building (since partly destroyed and rebuilt) and the
Tribune building (p. 38) in New York, and these are but a generation
old. The architectural problem presented by these structures was
entirely new, and no precedents could be invoked for their treatment.
Many of the different solutions of it offered by American architects
were of high ingenuity and interest. The passenger elevator, how-
ever, is but one of the two elements that have enabled the construc-
tion of the later American 'sky-scraper', and the less important. The
more important sthe "steel frame', introduced almost simultaneously,
about 1889, in New York and Chicago. This renders the buildings
constructed by means of it independent of the walls of masonry,
now become a mere veneer, and they can be attenuated accordingly
to the 'irreducible minimum' of the metallic frame. Hence become
practicable such prodigies of altitude as the 'Singer' and 'Metro-
politan' towers in New Y^ork (pp. 37, 44) and as a pending design
for the new building of the Equitable Society, in the same city,
which threatens to overtop the Tour Eiffel in Paris. Unhappily,
artistic expression of these structures has neither been attempted or
even sought, except in such comparatively unimportant instances as
the Singer Building in Broadway near 14th Street, New York (not
to be confounded with the Singer Building of the tower, lower
down Broadway), or as the Bayard Building in Bleecker Street in
that city. In the main the modern sky-scraper of the steel frame
continues to be in its design a reminiscence of the building of
masonry, aud hence it is of little or no interest properly architec-
tural. In puDiic buildings, the modem French style, imported by
graduates of the Beaux Arts, is at present in undisputed control.
While American architects have been compelled to contribute to
architecture a new type in the elevator building, they have won sue-
XIV. FINE ARTS. xci
cesses not less genuine, thongli of conrse less startling, in domestic
architecture. Here also they are almost equally independent of con-
vention, and this, as is often apparent in their successful essays, not
from ignorance hut from deliherate choice. The discipline of the
schools has enahled a designer to produce work that is clearly
scholarly and as clearly not scholastic. Dwellings of recent erection
are to be found in the suhurhs of Boston, in the new 'West Side' of New
York, on all three 'sides' of Chicago, and indeed in allthe chief towns
of the North and North- West that are so far from being examples of
styles that they betray a complete freedom of eclecticism and that are
yet evidently the work of accomplished and artistic designers. The
massiveness of the Romanesque in which Mr. Richardson worked
sometimes even in his hands degenerated into a coarseness and
clumsiness that are especially repugnant to the spirit of domestic
architecture. His imitators have exaggerated these defects and omitted
the qualities which in his work atoned for them, and the most suc-
cessful of recent American dwellings that can be classified as Ro-
manesque are of a lighter and more enriched Romanesque than that
which he employed. The French Renaissance of Francis I. has ap-
pealed to many of the architects as a style at once free and picturesque
and at the same time refined, and some interesting houses have been
done in it, especially in New York (comp. p. 49) and Philadelphia.
In country-houses, also, American architects have had their successes,
and a fairly comprehensive view of their achievements in this kind
can be had from a sojourn at any of the watering-places on the coast
of New England or New Jersey. Architecturally as well as otherwise
Newport is the most interesting of these.
The European historians and critics of architecture who have so
long been insisting that 'Art is not archaeology' may find in the cur-
rent building of the United States that precept reduced to practice.
An absolute freedom is the rule alike among competent and incom-
petent architects , subject with the former class to the artistic unity
of the resulting work. In commercial and domestic architecture,
along with much wildness and crudity , this freedom has produced
much that is interesting and suggestive to the European student of
architecture, and that gives good hope for the progress of architecture
in the United States.
XV. Sports and Games,
revised tiy
Ealph Cracknell.
The interest in outdoor sports, which once confined itself to those
distinctively American pastimes, baseball and the trotting race, has
within the last forty years grown at once more catholic and more
intense. Every form of sport now has its devoted admirers, who
follow it with the energy and the enthusiasm which are part of the
TLcii XV. SPORTS.
American character. The rapid and widespread growth of this taste
for games seems mainly due to the increase of wealth, the example
of schools and colleges, and the general recognition of the necessity
of relief from the strain of business or professional work. The
significant note of American sports is the completeness of their
organization.
To enter into the spirit of American pastimes, an Englishman
need only learn, to admire the gait of the trotting horse and to admit
the merits of baseball. Almost all other sports are conducted sub-
stantially upon English models. The Running Horses (i.e. race-
horses) are all of English blood; Football as played in the United
States is an Americanization of the Rugby game; Lawn Tennis^
Cricket, Lacrosse, Golf, and Polo are played in the same way in both
countries; while Yachting, Rowing, Canoeing, and Athletic Sports
are equally popular on each side of the Atlantic.
Thougli the theory that Baseball is a development of 'Rounders'' is
sometimes disputed, the 'National Game' may soon he understood hy
anyone familiar with the old English pastime. Baseball, however, has been
differentiated into a distinctively American game, with every position on
the field highly specialized. Its rapid thinking, its quick throwing, the
wonderful cmtrol of the ball in pitching, catching, and fielding, its skilful
base running, and the fact that a game lasts le?s than 2 hrs. constitute its
appeal to ihe American people. It is pi 'yed in every village, town, and
city, and by practically every school, college, university, and athletic club
in the country; but the games most worth seeing are those of the fprofes-
sional) National League, in New York, Boston, Brooklyn, Cincinnati,
Chicago, Philadelphia, Pittsburg, and St. Louis; and of the American League
in New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Washington, Chicago, St. Louis, Cleve-
land, and Detroit. These games are largely attended, crowds of 15,000 or
20,000 being not uncommon. The club 'representing' each of these cities
plays a series of home-and-home games with every other; the winner of
the greatest number is the champion of the year. These two major 'Leagues'
are fed by about 40 minor 'Leagues", comprising 300 clubs with nearly
5000 players. Among these are the Eastern (including two Canadian clubs),
American Association, Southern, Pacific Coast, and Western. The best amateur
games are those of the colleges (especially Harvard, Yale, Pennsylvania,
Princeton, Georgetown, Cornell, Brown, and Dartmouth in the East). The
professional season begins in April and ends in October. A baseball team
consists of nine men, including the pitcher, catcher, and seven fielders,
with .substitutes for every position. Large salaries are paid to the best
professional players, amounting in some cases to $ 10,000 (2000/.).
Horse Eaces. See p. 22 under New York. Other meetings are held
during the season in or near Cincinnati, Louisville, New Orleans, Wash-
ington, Saratoga, Lexin^iton (Ky.), San Francisco, and elsewhere. The
racin? at these tracks is of varying quality, hut rarely as good as on the
NcM' York circuit. Meetings under the auspices of the National Steeple-
chase and Hunt Association are held annually at New York and at the
Country Club, Brookline (p. 257), near Boston.
Trotting Races take place during the season, from May to October, on
1500 tracks in the United States, owned by racing associations or by county
and state fair associations, as well as on many private tracks at brood-
farms and elsewhere. Stakes, purses, and added money amount to more
than $3,000,000 annually; and the capital invested in horses, trsicks,
stables, farms, etc., is enormous. The tracks are level, with start and
finish directly in front of the grand stand, and are either 1 M. or '/z M. in
length. They are always of earth, and are usually elliptical in shape. The
horses are driven in two-wheeled 'sulkies' of little weight, and the hand-
XV. SPORTS. xciii
icapping is exclusively by time-classes. Records of every race are kept by
two national associations. Horses tbat have never trotted a mile in less
than 2 min. 40 sees, are in one class; those that have never beaten 2.35
in another; those that have never beaten 2.30 in a third; and so on down
to 2.2, which has been beaten but a dozen times. Races are always trotted
in heats, and the winner must usually win tliree heats, though a sensible
movement has been recently inaugurated, with the support of most of the
'Grand Circuit' tracks ■ to award the race to the horse which first wins
two heats. With a dozen entries (or even six or eight, the more usual
number) a race may occupy an entire afternoon, and require many heats
before a decision is reached. Betting is common at every meeting, but is
not so prominent as at running tracks. The pacing gait is becoming more
common, and at many race-meetings the purses offered for the pricing
iclasses are almost as numerous as those offered for the trotters. The best
races are to be seen at the tracks of the 'Grand Circuit'. This circuit
holds meetings, of from four to eight days each, in or near Detroit, Colum-
bus (0.), Buffalo, Kalamazoo (Mich.), Poughkeepsie, Readville (Mass.),
Syracuse, Providence, and Hartford (Conn.). The Great Western Ci'-cuit
holds meetings at Peoria (111.), Terre Haute (Tnd.), Libertyville (HI.) Kala-
mazoo (Mich.), Galesburg (111.), Davenport (la.), Dubuque (la ), Hamline
(Minn.), Milwaukee (Wis.), Peoria (111.). Pekin (111.), and Springfield (III.).
The Pacific coast also has a circuit. The bi;^ Kentucky Breeders" Meeting
is held at Lexington <p. 582). Trotting and driving clubs are found through-
out the country. A feature of many of these meetings is the attempt of
ramous horses, accompanied only by a running or pacing mate, to 'break
fhe record' for a mile. In 1903 the trotting - record was for the first time
brought within two minutes, when 'Lou Dillon' covered the distance in
I.58V2 at Memphis. At the same meeting, 'Dan Patch' reduced the pacing
record to 1.561/4, and he has since brought this down to 1.55. The best
brood-farms for the development of trotting and pacing horses are in
Kentucky and California. Each farm has an annual auction-sale of its
produce, either at home or in New York City.
Hunting is much in vogue in the neighbourhood of New York, though
the place of a fox is generally taken by a 'drag'. There are frequent meets
with one of the packs of Meadoioirook, Rocknway, Orange^ or White Plains.
Boston (Myopia, Middlesex, and Norfolk), Philadelphia, and Washington
also support packs. In Virginia much hunting is done in the Piedmont
"Valley. The wild fox is hunted in the Geneseo Valley (N. Y.), at Media
(Pa.), and at Barre (Mass.). Fox-shooting over a single hound is practised
by associations of farmers and others, usually in country inaccessible to
horsemen.
Shooting and Fishing are generally open to all-comers during the
legal season, upon payment in some ca'fes of a moderate fee to the
authorized state official, though the number of game and fish preserves
is increasing. The Game Lawx are different in each of the States and
Territories and cannot be conveniently condensed. Copies of them may
be obtained on application from the State Fish and Game Commissions.
Of the 33,000 sq. M. in the state of Maine about one-half is an almost
uninhabited wilderness of forest. Here are 1500 lakes, thousands of streams
and rivulets, and miles upon miles of hunting-grounds, where the spoitsman
may find large game and small and fishing and shooting of almost all kinds.
His visit should be made not earlier than the middle of July, when the black
fly has passed. By law he may fish in fresh water from May to Sept. in-
clusive, and hunt from Oct. to Dec. inclusive, the greater sport being per-
mitted from the day the quieter ceases. The open season for deer begins
on Oct. l'<t, for monse on Oct. 15th ; non-residents pay a licence-fee of $ 15
(for bird-shooting $ 5). Bears, foxes, wild-cats, and wolves may be killed
at any time, and opportunities fnr doing so are not unlikely to occur.
Ducks, geese, loons, and herons abound; and small game of every kind
is common. The region may be entered at Greenville- on Moosehead Lake
(p. 301), the largest sheet of water in the State. Here guides may be
obtained at $3 per day, who furnish canoes, cooking utensils, and tents.
xciY XV. SPORTS.
It is best, of course, to camp out. For this, one guide is required for
each visitor; food will cost about $1 per day, and other equipment may
be purchased beforehand, or hired at Greenville or any other point selected
for entering the woods. A good rifle, a pole (fishing-rod), Unes, flies,
reels, stout boots, and plenty of blankets — these are the necessities, and
beyond these one may take an outfit as complete or as modest as desired.
Care should be taken in the selection of guides. In July and Aug. it is
not easy to get good ones. A party of four, with four or five guides, is
as large as is desirable. — The region may be entered from the other side,
almost as conveniently, from the stations on the Bangor & Aroostook E. E.
between Norcross and Ashland.
The Rangeley Lakes (p. 29^0 are more accessible than Greenville, but
the hunting there is not so good, though the fishing is excellent, particularly
in May and June. The wilderness may be penetrated in canoes from either
point for hundreds of miles, with increasing chances of game.
The Adirondack Eegion (p. 104) has a smaller area than the Maine
wilderness, and the shooting is not so good. Deer may be met with,
however, the open season lasting from Sept. 1st to ITov. 15th. But al-
though large hotels, steam-launches, and even railroads are now found
throughout the Adirondacks, the trout-fishing is still excellent. The season
lasts from April 16th to Aug. 31st. A large part of the region is owned by
the State and reserved as a public park. August is the best month for a
visit; and the sportsman may go directly to one of the hotels in the region,
relying upon tbe guides, provisions, and equipments there to be found.
* There is also good hunting in the mountains of Pennsylvania, the
A^'irginias, Tennessee, and Xorth Carolina; and in the Far "West the biggest
game is found. Deer are abundant, too, in Louisiana, Mississippi, Florida,
and Alabama, and venison has within recent years been cheaper than beef
in the markets of New Orleans. But the limits of this article forbid more
than a mention of these facts.
Wild Fowl abound on the coast from Maine to Florida; the season for
duck, etc., usually opens about Sept. 1st and continues to April.
Tarpon Fishing in the deep-sea water off Florida, best from Feb. to
May, is a superb sport (comp. p. 611).
Buffaloes are nearly extinct. There are not over 1000 on the con-
tinent ; of these 500 are in Yellowstone Park, where the sound of a gun is
never heard. Another herd is preserved in the Corbin Park, X. H. (p. 314).
The Mountain Sheep and Rockp Mountain Goat, in the Far West, are
generally protected by law from Jan. to Sept. ; in some States they cannot
be legally killed at all.
Bicycling. This sport is less popular than it was a few years ago, and
the use of the 'wheer is largely confined to children and to workmen riding
to and from their d ily task. The roads in the United States are not good
for wheeling, except near large cities and in a few eastern states. There
has, however, been a marked improvement in recent years, due in part
to the growth of motoring (see below). The League of American Wheelmen^
though much smaller and less inHuential than of yore, has still affiliations
nith various foreign bodies and can be of considerable service to the tourist.
The National Cyclists" Association, which is affiliated with the Amateur
Athletic Union, the American Automobile Association, and the International
Cycli-ts' Union, is the governing body for track and road racing. Racing
(generally motor-paced) is still popular at Boston, Revere (Mass.), Vails-
burg (N. J.), Salt Lake City, Ogden, and San Francisco. Motor - cycling
is increasing in favour and has its own association. The Cyclists'" Touring
Club of England is represented in the United States by a Chief Consul
(Mr. Frank W. Weston, 166 Devonshire St., Boston, Mass.) and Consuls in
many towns and cities. Manufacturers or dealers, from whom information
may be sought and wheels hired, are to be found in almost every town.
Motoring. Motor-cars are now exceedingly numerous in the United
States, especially near the larger cities and at fashionable summer-resorts.
In 1907 the value of cars produced in the United States amounted to
$ 105,000,000, while over 1000 foreign cars were imported (value $ 3,000,000).
XV. SPORTS. xcv
Racing is carried on near most of the large cities, but, as no especial
tracks have been constructed, this is attended with considerable danger.
A meeting is held every March on Ormdnd Beach (p. 620). The Glidden
Tour to the Whife Mts. (p. 320) is an annual outing for the motorists of
'New York, Boston, Chicago, and other large cities. — Th e American Auto-
mobile Assodaiion (437 Fifth Ave., IS'ew York), representing a score or more
of State Associations and 160 clubs, has 19,00C members. Members of foreign
clubs, on presentation of their membership card, will be cnurteonsly re-
ceived. Inform-'tion as to roads nnd touring is triven by its Touring B'ard
at_ Buffalo (760 Main St.). It publishes a Year Book and a lar?e Blue Book,
with routes and maps (4 vols., $ 2V2 each). Automobiles of foreiszn manu-
facture, imported by the owners personally for bona fide louring purposes,
are entitled to free entry under bond for a stay of three months.
Lawn Tennis. The annual All-comers Tournament is held at "STew-
port in August; the winner plays the champion of the year before for the
champion-hip at singles. A Western Championship Tournament at doubles
occurs in Chicago in July, and an Eastern in Boston; the winners of these
meet at the Crescent Club of Brooklyn, after which the survivors play the
title-holders at Newport. The Ladies Chrimpionxh'ps are decided in Phila-
delphia. All these are open to members of recognized clubs, American or
foreign. The Davis International Challenge Trophy, presented by Mr. Dwight
F. Davis of St. Louis, was won by the brothers Doherty in 1903 and taken
to England, where it was captured by the Australasians in 1907. There
are many minor tournaments during the sea'^on (May to Oct.), usually open
to strangers. Intercollegiate and Interscholastic Tournaments are held in the
Eastern states. The Indoors Championship is decided annually in the
Seventh Regiment Armoury, New York (p. 52). The National Association
is the governing body, and there are clubs and courts in every city, and
in many of the smaller towns and villages as well.
Tennis, Racquets, Squash Racquets, and Hand Ball. Tennis is played
in New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Newport, Hamilton (p. 283), Tuxedo
(p. 142), Aiken (p. 606), Lakewood (p. 179; private court of Mr. George
Gould), and Roslyn (L. I. ; private court of Mr. Clarence Mackay). The
United States Amateur Championship is decided annually. Racquets and
Squash Racquets are played at many athletic and conntrv clubs through-
out the country, and champ'onsh'p meetings are held. Hand Ball is also
common: it is not identical with the English game of Fives.
Basket Ball, founded a few years ago as a mild indoor substitute for
football, spread rapidly all over the country and became so rough that
special measures had to be taken for its regulation. It is played in winter
in halls or gymnasia, by teams of five a side, the object being to throw
the ball (resembling an Association football) into baskets suspendeii at the
ends of the arena. An e'aborate system of passing, throwing, and blocking
has been deve'oped. It is plaved by c lieges, schools, the Y.M.C.A., and
clubs, and championship meetings are held. It is also played at girls' schools
and colleges, both indoors and out.
Cricket. The best clubs a^e in Philadelphia (see p. 160); in New York,
Chicago, the Massachusetts mill-towns, and San Francisco cricket is played
by Englishmen, and elevens are maintained by Harvard, Cornell, and the
colleges in or near Philadelphia. The game, however, has never secured
a good foothold, as Americans do n<"'t appreciate either drawn matches or
the time spent over first-class encounters.
Golf has become very popular in the United States, where there are
now at least 1000 clubs and 250,000 players. The U. S. Golf Association, to
which most of the local organizations belong, holds annual tournaments
for the National Amateur Championship, the Open Championship, and the
Ladies Championship. Other smaller but important organizations are the
Western, MetropoWan, Philadelphia. Massachusetts, Western Pennsylvania^
Southern, and Pacific Coast Associniions. The best course in the country is
that of the Myopia Hunt Club at Hamilton, Mass. Tp. 283), but there are
several very good ones near New York, Chicago, Pittsburg, and St. Louis.
In winter golf is played at many places in the South and on the Pacific
xcvl XV. SPORTS
Coast, (he 'green' being usually of sand or earth. State, district, and other
local competitions are numerous. Public links are maintained at New York,
Boston, Brooklyn, Chicago, and Indianapolis.
Polo. There are about forty polo - clubs in the country, the most im
portant bein? the MeadowbrooJc , Rockaway. and Westchester Country Club,
near New York •, the Myopia and Dedham Cli'hs near Boston ; the Bryn Maw
and Philadelphia Country Clubs near Philadelphia; the Che-y Chase Club near
Washington; the Owrentsia Cl'ib near Cbicngo; the Westchester Polo Club
catNewp'^rt; and the Point JudHh Country Club at Narrasansett Pis'-. In ihe
South polo is played at Aiken (S.C.) and at Camden fS.C). The head-
<luaTt'^rs of the Army Polo Club are at We*t Point. The. Polo Association
is the governinsf body, arranging handicaps and fixing championship and
other competitions.
Lacrosse. Tins Canadian game is played at the Crescent Athletic Club
of Brooklyn, the grounds of which are at Bay Ridge (Lons; Islnnd). It is
played also by the following colleges, which arrange home-and -home
matches: Harvard, Hobart, Columbia, Stevens, Lehigh, Swarthmore, and
Johns Ho'^kins.
Yachtins:. The principal clxibs are in New York, on long Tslanfl Sound
and near Boston. The New York Yacht Clnb, by far the largest, holds its
most important annu '1 races off Newport, the Eastern Yacht Club off Marble-
head (llass."). The sport is popular all along the Atlantic coast, and there is
no little sailing, generallv of small craft, on the Great Lakes and other in-
land bodies of water. The races for the famous international trophy known
as the America Cup, which have occurred 12 times since 1870, are held on
Ocean courses off" New York Bay.
Rowing. The National Association of Amateur Oarsmen is the gOA'-ern-
ing bodv, and holds an annual regatta, over a different course each year.
Subsidiary association<: are the New England, the Middle States, the Hnrlem,
and the Southern. The best eight-oared college crews are tho=e of Harvard.
Yale, ColumMa, Cornell. Wisconsin, and Penns^ylvnnia Universities. Harvard
and Yale race at New London (p. 242) in June ; the others on the Hudson River.
Canoeinsf. The American Canoe Association, which is the parent of
various sectional associations, holds an annual meeting in Aug., usually
in Northern New York. There are canoeists on almost every stream in the
country, and many clubs. Sailing is developed somewhat at the evpense
of paddling; in other respects the customs are similar to those in England.
FootbaU. The game plaved is a development of the Rugbv game (■ hiefly
due to Mr. Walter Camp of Yale), but is played with teams of eleven a
side instead of fifteen. ^ nd with a much more complicated code of playing-
rules and tactics. Yale, Harvard, Princeton. Pennsylvania. Cornell. WeM Point,
Annapolis, the Carlisle I" dians (p. 189). Darhnonth, ajo.A. Brown have the best
elevens in the East; Chicago. Michigan, WL^consin, and Minnesota in the
West. The important matches between these elevens are played in November,
and 30.000 or even 40.000 spectators are often present. Almost every college
and school in the country have elevens, but there are no professional teams.
The evils of mass plays' and ques'ionable tactics which formerly marred
the g me have been largelv removed by recent legislation and college
sentiment. Association football, which is gaining ground, is plaved by
Englishmen in mill-towns and near large centres of popnlation and by
Columbia, Cornell, Pennsvlvania, Harvard, and other colleges. Rugby
football is played at California colleges. The season for Amencan foot-
ball is very short, beginning in Sept. and closing with the last of November.
Bowling ('Ten-Pins'') is a favourite amusement of both sexes through-
out the Ignited States, and alleys are attached to most gymnasia and athletic
club buildings, as well as to" many summer-hotels and amusement-halls.
Tonrnaments of local interest are constantly held durin? the winter months,
and the American Howling Cong7'ess has an ann'ial competition in February
for the national championship, each year in a different city.
Athletics. The track-events are the same as those contested in Eng-
land, though the character of the country and the climate make long-distance
XV. SPORTS. xcvii
and cross -country running relatively less popular, and the short races
(100 yards to Vz^^-) are more generally contested. An innovation is the very
short sprint (30-50 yards), at indoor winter games. In hurdle-racing and
Jumping the standards are very high; walking is not much practised. In
weight-throwing the rules differ radically from the English. The chief
athletic clubs are the New York A. (7., the Boston A. A.^ the Columbia A. C.
(Washington), the Southern A. C. (New Orleans), the Crescent A. C. (Brooklyn),
the Chicago A. C, the Irish-American A. C. (Kew York), the Olympic A. G.
(San Francisco), the Buffalo A. C, the Detroit A. C, the Duquesne A. C.
(Pittsburg), and the A. C. of the Schuylkill Navy (Philadelphia). Most of these
hold spring and autumn meetings; and indoor games are held in armouries
and other large halls, so that the season practically lasts throughout the
year. It is at its height, however, in iMay and .Tune. Many of the colleges
send representatives to the Intercollegiate Athletic Association's meeting,
which is held e ch year in May on the track of one or other of the leading
Eastern universities ; Harvard, Yale, Pennsylvania, and Cornell had the
others. There are also scores of less important intercollegiate and inter-
scholastic meetings during the spring i^nd early summer. — Military Athletics
have become very popular with the National Guard, etc.; and a National
Military Athletic League has been formed. — Gaelic Sports^ with Gaelic
football, hurley, etc., are often held at Celtic Park, Long Island, and in
the suburbs of Boston.
Rifle Shooting. The National Rifle Association holds an annual meeting
at Camp Perry (Ohio), with various inter-state and inter-club matches. An
American team, shooting at Bisley, England, captured the Olympic cham-
pionship in 1908, and the Americans also won the international champion-
ship at Ot'awa in the previous year. Eifle-shooting clubs abound, and
boys are encouraged to compete.
Boxing and Wrestling have many devotees. Prize-fighting is forbidden
by law in most states, but pugilistic encounters, where they are permitted,
as in Philadelphia, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Colma (Cal.), and Nevada,
draw thousands of spectators. The Armory Athletic Association of Boston
is the largest private boxins club in the country (2000 seats). There are
several other clubs at New York and New Orleans. University Champion-
ship and other amateur boxing meetings are held.
Fencing. The American Fencers'' League has members in many cities
and holds championship and division championship tournaments. There
is also an Intercollegiate Association, to which the Eastern colleges belong,
including West Point and Annapolis.
Ballooning:. The headquarters of the Aero Club of America is at New
York (12 E. 42nd St.), and there are similar clubs at Philadelphia, St.
Louis, and Pittsfield. Ascents are frequent. The international race for
the .Tames Gordon Bennett Cup, started from St. Louis in 1907, was won
by Dr. Oscar Erbsloeh in the German balloon 'Pommern', which landed
at Asbury Park (N.J.), 8763/4 M. from St. Louis.
Archery. The National Association holds an annual championship meeting,
Roque {i. e. scientific croquet). The National Association hold-' its annual
meeting at Nor-wich (Conn.)- Roque is played at nearly all the country clubs.
Trap Shooting. The In'ers'ate Association holds national competitions,
the Grand American Handicap being the chief event of the year. Clubs
abound near all the large cities. Harvard, Yale, and Princeton hold inter-
collegiate competitions.
Swimming. Athletic clubs and colleges encourage competitions in
swimming. Public baths are increasing in number, and there are usu-
ally swimming tanks in the athletic clubs. The Amateur Athletic Union
governs the sport in the matter of dates for competitions, and amateur
standing. — Water Polo is played at the athletic clubs.
Winter Sports. The severity of the northern winters offers opportunity
for many exhilarating outdoor sports. Skating^ Coasting, Snow-Shoeing^ and
Tobogganing are enjoyed by millions, and the large number of citizens of
Norwegian or Swedish origin has led to the introduction of the Scandi-
Baeueker's United States. 4th Edit. g
xcviii XVI. EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS.
navian pastime, Ski-Rurming .. into the States, where it has been adopted
with enthusiasm. Ice-Hockey, Ice-YachHng, and Curling ^re also practised in
many parts of the country. Many colleges and schools, as well as golf and
country clubs, do much to foster winter-sports.
XVI. Educational, Charitable, Penal, and Industrial
Institutions.
The o"bject of many -visitors to the United States is to study its
systems of schools, prisons, or charities, or to inspect the working of
its leading industrial estahlishments. For such visitors the subjoined
brief index-lists may be serviceable.
a. Educational Institutions,
|by President Nicholas Murray Butler of Columbia TJniversity.
Public Education is regulated by the several States. The United
States Bureau of Education, established in 1867 (Dr. Elmer Ellsworth
Brown, present Commissioner ot Education), maintains a Library and edu-
cational museum at Washington and issues an annual report. It has, how-
ever, no direct authority over education in the States.
Each State maintains an elaborate system of public schools 5 those of
the ^N. and W. States (e. g., iSl^ew York, Massachusetts, New Jersey, lUichi-
gan, ^linnesota, Iowa, California, etc.) are especially well organized and ad-
ministered. In addition to providing free elementary and secondary educa-
tion, many of the W. States maintain free universities, the original funds for
the endowment of the same having been derived from the sale or rental of
public lands given by Congress for the purpose. Among the chief of these
are the University of Michigan at Ann Arbor (p. 3*^3 », the University of Wis-
consin at Madison (p. 38i), the University of California at Berkeley (p. 466),
the University of Minnesota at Minneapolis (p. 392), and the University of
Illinois at Champaign (p. 588).
As a rule, however, the great colleges and universities are private
foundations managed by a corporation or board of trustees. Of these the
ildest is Harvard University (founded in 1636) at Cambridge (p. 270). In
19('6-7 the gross annual expenditure of Harvard, excluding the cost of new
buildings, amounted to nearly S 2,00("),000. About 5000 students were in
attendance in 1907-8. The other great universities of this class are the Johns
Hopkins University at Baltimore (p. 207, founded in l'^76), which has had
a profound influence on higher education in America; Columbia University
in New York (p. 66 ; foumled as a cdlege in 1754, reorganized as a university
in 1890 1; Cornell University at Ithaca (p. 145; founded in 1865); Yale
University (p. 283; founded in 1700): Princet <n University (p. 156; founded
as a college in 1746); the University of Pennsylvania (p. 171); and the
University of Virginia, Charlottesville (p. 565; founded in 1819). Among
more recently founded institutions are the Catholic University of America
at Washington (p. 227), the University of Chicago (p. 377), and Stanford
Univ.rsity(p. 522).
There are about 400 colleges in the United States in addition to the
great universities. Well-known colleges are Amherst (p. 243), Dartmouth
(p. 346), Williams (p. 343), Hamilton (Clinton, N. Y.), Oberlin (p. 356), Lafa-
yette (p. 145), Rutgers ip. 156), and Knox (Galesburg. U .).
The leading colleges exclusively for women are Welleslev (p. 241"), Vas-
sar (p. 88), Smith (p. 34i), Eadcliffe (p. 272), and Bryn Mawr (p. l^S).
Technological education is given at Harvard, Columbia, Cornell, and
many of the other universities, as well as at in titutions exclusively for
that purpose. Of the special schools for the training of engineers, architects,
etc., the most worthy of a visit are the Massachusetts Institute of Technology
(p. 263), Stevens Institute of Technolou'y (p. 73), Rensselaer Polytechnic
Institute (Troy, p. 128), Rose Polytechnic Institute (Terre Haute, p. 409),
and the Carnegie Technical Schools (Pittsburg, p. 199).
XYI. CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. xcix
Of city school systems tlie best are, perhaps, those of Ifew York
(p. 10), Minneapolis (p. 390), Indianapolis (p. 401), Denver (p. 471), Kansas
City (Mo, ; p. 423), Boston and Brookline (pp. 253, 274), and Cleveland
(p. 853). Diiluth (p. 393), Detroit (p. 858). Springfield (p. 239), and Denver
have the finest high-school buildings and equipment. Kindergartens will
be found in the public schools of New York, Washington (p. 211), Boston,
Philadelphia (p. 158), S m Francisco (p. 509), and elsewhere.
Literature: The Annual Reports of the United States Commi-ssioner of
Education, of the Carnegie Foundation for the Advancement of Teaching,
of the State and Municipal School Authorities, and of the Presidents of the
gi'eat univer-ities, all of which may usually be had free on request. The
only work giving a complete view of the American educational system is
'Education in the United States" (2 vols., Albany, N. Y. ; J. B. Lyon Co.),
a series of 20 monographs by different writers.
b. Correctional and Charitable Institutions.
Penal Institutions. New York State Penitentiaries, at Ossining (p. 87)
and Auburn (p. 133). — Institutions on Blackwell's Island (p. 71). — Eastern
Penitentiary at Philadelphia (p. 168 ; the only prison in the country man-
aged on the 'separate system'). — Western Penitentiary, at Pittsburg
(p. 200). — MfiSsacbusetts State Prison, at Charlestown (p. 273). — Boston
House of Correction, at Heer Island (p. 27i). — Northern Illinois Peniten-
tiary, at Joliet (p. 420). Southern Illinois Penitentiary, at Chester (p. 430). —
Ohio Penitentiary, at Columbus (p. 350). — California State Prisons, at
San Quentin and Folsom.
Reformatories. New York State Heformatory, Elmira (p. 142). —
Massachusetts Reformatory, Concord fp. 309). — Reformatory Prison for
Women, South Framingham, Mass. (p. 241). — Pennsylvania Industrial Re-
formatory, Huntingdon (p. 190). — Michigan Reformatory, Ionia (Mich.).
— Ohio Reformatory, at Mansfield (p. 349). — Illinois Reformatory, at
Pontiac (HI.).
Lunatic Hospitals and Asylums. Mtiunt Hope Retreat for the Insane,
Baltimore (p. 209). — Eastern Michigan Asylum for the Insane, Pontiac
(Mich.). — State Lunatic Asylum, Utica (p. 131). — Willard Asylum for the
Insane, Willard (N.Y ). — Ma^^saehusetts Lunatic Hospital and Asylums, at
Worcester (p. 241), Danvers (Mass.), Westborough (Mass.), and Waverley
(Mass.). — Ohio Asylums for the Insane, at Columbus (p. 350), Toledo
(p. 356), and Cleveland (p. 353l. — Hospital for the Insane, in Philadelphia
(p. 172). — Illinois Eastern Hospital for the Insane, at Kankakee (p. 401).
— Hospital for Dipsomaniacs and Inebriates, at Foxborough (Mass.).
Institutions for the Blind. Perkins Institution for the Blind, Boston
(p. 269). — Illinois Institution for the Education of the Blind, Jacksonville
(p. 424). — New York Institutions for the Blind, at New York (p. 55) and
Batavia (p. 135). — Pennsylvania Institution for the Instruction of the
Blind, Philadelphia (p. 158). — Ohio Institution for the Education of the
Blind, Columbus (p. 350).
Institutions for the Deaf. The most important of these are at North-
ampton (p. 344), Flint (Mich.), New York City (p. 69), Columbus (p. 350),
Indianapolis (p. 402), Jacksonville (p. 424), Hartford (p. 288), Philadelphia
(p. 158), Knoxville (p. 577), and Delavan (Wis.).
Reformatories for Youth. Among the largest of these are the insti-
tutions at W.Meriden (p. 237), Plainfield (p. 157), Baltimore (p. 203), Carroll
CMd.), Westborough (Mass.; for boys), Lancaster (Mass.; for girls), Lnnsing
(p. 361), Jamesburg (N.J.), Randall's Island (p. 71), Rochester (p. 135), West-
chester (N.Y.), Lancaster (Ohio), Cincinnati (p. 405), Philadelphia (p. 158),
Morganza (Pa.), Providence (p. 243), and Waukesha (p. 883).
c. Industrial Establishments.
I. Metallic Industries and Machinert. Homestead and Edgar Thomson
Steel Works, near Pittsburg (see p. 2^0); Pennsylvania Steel Co., at Steel-
ton (p. 189) and Sparrow's Point (p. 204); Cambria Steel Co., Johnstown
g*
c XVI. INDUSTRIAL ESTABLISHMENTS.
(p. 191); Illinois Steel Co., Chicago (p. 370): iron and steel works at Cleve-
land (p. 353), Buffalo (p. 13B), Wilmington (p. 202), BetMehem (p. 182), Sharon
(p. 232), and Birmingham (p. 58 0; agricultural machinery at Chicago (p. 370;
McCormick), LouisviUe (p. 567; Avery), Columbas (p. 349), Akron (p. 232),
Springtield (p. 404), Canton (p. 349), MoUne (p. 426), and Hoosick Falls (p. 335);
sewing machines at Bridgeport (p. 235) and Elizabeth (p. 156) ; brass works
at Bridgeport (p. 235), Waterbury (p. 239), and Meriden (p. 2:i7); silver and
plated gn.ds at Providence (p. 243), Kew York (p. 10; Whiting Co.), Meriden
(p. 237), Taunton (p. 253), andAttleboro(p. 245); bicycles at Hartford (p. 23^;
stoves at Troy (p. 128) and Buffalo (p. 136); wire at Worcester (p. 240) ; nails
at Wheeling "(p 352); safes at Cincinnati (p. 405); smelting works at Denver
(p. 471). — II. Textile Industries. Cotton at Manchester (p. 313), Lawrence
(p. 286), Fall River (p. 252), New Bedford (p. 279), Lowell (p. 312). Chicopee
(p. 344), Baltimore (p. 204 ; cotton-duck), Columbia (p. 603), Charlotte (p. 570), and
Augusta (p. 607); woollens at Lawrence (p. 286), Lowell (p. 312), and Provi-
dence (p. 243); linen at Willimantic (p. 246); carpets at Philadelphia (p. 161)
and Lowell (p. 312); silk at South Manchester iCt.) and Paterson (p. 140) :
shirts and collars at Troy (p. 128). — III. Food Products. Flour at Minne-
apolis (pp. 391, 392) and St. Louis (p. 412); malt liquors at St. Louis (p. 413),
Milwaukee (p. 382), and Rochester (p. 135) ; wine at St. Louis (p. 410), Charlottes-
ville (p. 565), and in California (comp. p. 519) ; whiskey at Louisville (p. 567)
and Peoria (p. 400); meat packing at Chicago (p. 379), Kansas City (p. 424),
and Omaha (p. 418); sugar at Brooklyn (p. 75) and Philadelphia (p. 161). —
IV. Glass AND Pottery. Trenton (p. 157); Elwood (Ind.); Findlay (Ohio) ;
Wheeling (p. 352); Pittsburg (p. 200). —V. Carriages. Columbus (p. 34«);
South Bend (p. 357; Studebaker); Concord (p. 313); Cincinnati (p. 406);
New York (p. 10; Cunningham). — VI. Railway Rolling Stock. Pullman
(p. 380); Buffalo (p. 136); Dayton (p. 404); Philadelphia (locomotives;
p. 168); Altoona (p. 190); Omaha (gasolene railway- cars ; p. 418); Schenec-
tady (locomotives; p. 130), Richmond (loci^motives ; p. 5^5). — VII. Ships.
Philadelphia (p. 171); Chester (p. 202); Wilmington (p. 202); San Fran-
cisco (p. 512); Cleveland (p. 354); West Superior (p. 395; whalebacks);
Bath (p. 292; sailing vessels). — Ylll. Paper. Holyoke (p. 344); Springfield
(p. 239 ; envelopes). — IX. Oil. Cleveland (p. 354) ; Bayonne (N. J.) ; Memphis
(p. 586; cotton- seed oil); New Orleans (p. 633; cotton -seed oil). — X.
Tobacco. St. Louis (p. 412); Richmond (p. 556): Durham rp. 670); Jersey.
City (p. 73). — XI. Fire -Arms. Springfield (p. 239) ; Hartford (p. 237). —
XII. Boots and Shoes. Lynn (p. 280); Brockton (p 278). — XIII. Pianos.
New York (Stein way); Boston (p. 2'^3; Chickering). — XIV. Watches.
Waltham fp. 3i6); Elgin (p. 417); Waterbury (p. 2d9). — XV. Electric
Works. Lynn (p. 280; Thompson-Houston); Schenectady (p. 129); Newark
(p. 156; Edison). — XVI. Marble Quarries of Vermont (Rutland; p. 310)
and Tennessee (Knoxville; p. 577). — XVII. Chemicals & Drugs. Solvay
Process Co. at Syracuse (p. 132) and Detroit (p. 359) ; other works at Detroit
(pp. 359, 361); St. Louis (p. 413; Meyer); Richmond (p. 555); Charleston
(p. 600; Sault-Ste-Marie (p. 397). — XVIII. Furniture. Grand Rapids
(p. 362) and Detroit (p. 358). — XIX. Naval Guns and Armour. Brthlehem
(p. 182); Pittsburg (p. 197); Philadelphia (p. 158). — XX. Automobiles.
Detroit (p. 358); Dayton (p. 404); Hartford (p. 237); Cleveland (p. 353);
Buffalo (p. 136); Jackson (p. 363); Spdn^field (p. 239); Chicopee (p. 344);
Lansing (p. 361).
Comp. 'The Progress of the United States in its Material Industries'", a
statement issued by the Department of Commerce and Labour.
XVII. BIBLIOGRAPHY. ci
XVII. Bibliography.
The following is a very small selection of the most recent, inter-
esting, and easily accessible books on some of the main topics on
which visitors to the United States should be informed. A few
records of the impressions of British travellers are included. Nu-
merous other works of local interest are referred to throughout the
text of the Handbook (comp. also p. cii).
The American Commonwealth, by James Bryce (the best and most
comprehensive account of the political and social institutions of the United
States). — History of American Politics, by Alex. Johnston (4th edit., 1898).
— American Political Ideas, and Civil Government in the United States,
two lucid little books by John Fiske (1885 and 1890). — Our Grovernment,
by Macy (1887). — Actual Government as Applied under American Conditions,
by Frof. Albert Bnshnell Hart (iQOi; with a good bibliography). — See also
the Johns Hopkins University Studies in Historical and Political Science,
ed. by Frof. Herbert B. Adams; The Federalist, a series of essays by
Hamilton., Madison, and Jay (1787-88; ed. by H. C. Lodge, 1888); and the
works by Be Tocqueville (1835), Von Hoist (1876-85), Cooley ('Constitutional
Law'), and Ashley ('The American Federal State").
Histories of the United States, by George Bancroft, J. B. McMaster,
Jmtin Winsor, R. Hildreth, J. Schouler, Henry Adams, Rhodes (with best account
of the Civil War). Woodrow Wilson, Channing, McLaughlin, Goldwin Smith
(a brief but admirable outline). E. E. Sparks ('Story of the Nations Series'),
and T. W. Higginson (for children). See also Vol. VII. of the Cambridge
Modern History (1903). — The American Nation, a history from original
materials by associated scholars, edited by Frof. Albert Bushnell Hart, is
a complete and comprehensive work, the successive volumes of which ap-
peared between 1904 and 1909. — W. E. H. Lecky gives a good account of
Colonial conditions in his History of England in the Eighteenth Century
(1878-90). — A Short History of the War of Secession, by Rossiter Johnson
(1888). — The American Revolution, by Sir George Otto Trevelyan (Part I,
18 19; Part II, 1903). — American Statesmen, a series edited by John T.
Morse, Jr. — American Historic Towns, a series edited bv Lyman F. Fowell
(1902 et seq,). — Story of the Civil War, by /. C. Ropes (1894). — John Fiske's
excellent works on special periods and phases of Americ n history prac-
tically form a connected story down to the establishment of Federal govern-
ment. — American History told bv Contemporaries, edited b" A. B. Hart
(1897-1901). — The Story of the Revolution, by Henry Cabot Lodge (1899).
— Financial History of the United States, by Davis L. Dewey. — Comp. Guide
to the Study of American History, by Edw. Channing and A. B. Hart (1896).
The United States, by Frof. J. D. Whitney, is a mine of information
on the physical geography and material resources of the country (1889),
while The United States : A Study of the American Commonwealth, edited
by Frof. N. S. Shaler (1894), is still more comprehensive in its scope. North
America, by Israel C. Russell, is an account of the continent from the point
of view of the geographer ('Regions of the World Series' ; l!-!04). Comp.
Elisde Rectus'' Nouvelle Geographie Universelle (vols, xv-xix, 1890-94), and
Henry Gannetfs United States (vol. ii of North America in Stanford s Compen-
dium of Geography, new issue, 1898). — The Stately Homes in America,
by H. W. Desmond and H. Groly (illus. ; 1903). — Highways and Byways
of the South (1905), and Highways and Byways of the Pacific Coast (1S08),
both by Clifton Johnson.
The American Geological Railway Guide, by James MacFarlane, is a
xinique compilation, showing the geological formation at every railway
station (procured from Author, Woodland Road, Pittsburg ; price $ IVz)-
Comp. also the Geological Guide Book of the Rocky Mnuntain Excursion
of the International Congress of Geologists, by S. F. Emmons (i894).
Society in America, hj Harriet Martineau {\%Z1). — Some Impressions
of the United States, by E. A. Freeman (1888). — American Notes, by
Charles Dickens (1842). — My Diary, North and South, by Sir W. H. Russell
oil XVII. BIBLIOGRAPHY.
relating to the Civil War). — White and Black in America, by Sir George
Campbell (1889). — Jonathan and his Continent, and A Frenchman in
America, by Max O^Rell (1889 and 1891). — Our Kin across the Sea, by
/. C. Firth (1888). — The Land of the Dollar, by O. W. Steevens (1897). —
America at Work, by /. Foster Fraser {19U3). — American Traits, by Prof.
Hugo Miinsterberg (1901). — The Americans, by Prof. Evgo Miinsierberg,
translated by Dr. Holt (1905). —The American Scene, by Henry James (19u7).
— The Future in America, by H. G Wells (1P06). — America, the Land
of Contrasts, by /. F. Muirhead (4th edit., 1907; also published in the
'Tauchnitz Series').
Alaska, see p. 679; Boston, p. 257; California, pp. 533, 514; Grand
Canyon of the Colorado, p. 481; Cuba, p. 662; Mexico, p. 641 ; New Orleans,
p. 633; Is^ew York, pp. 28, 36; Porto Rico, p. 669; Washington Capitol,
p. 214; Yellowstone Park, p. 450; Yosemite Valley, p. 541.
Maps. The leading General Maps of the United States are those of the
General Land Office and the U. S. Geological Survey (Washington). The
former also publishes a series of maps (10-18 M. per inch) of those states
in which public lands have existed (i.e. all except those on the Atlantic
seaboard). — The only official Detailed Maps of any part of the United
States are those of the Geological Survey, published on three scales
(1 : 62,500 or about 1 M. per inch ; 1 : 125,000 or 2 M. per inch; and 1 : 250,000
or 4 M. per inch). About 1,000,000 sq. M. have been surveyed, in various
parts of the country. These maps can be obtained only from the Director
of the Geol. Survey, who will send a list on application (each sheet 5 c).
The U. S. Coast Survey is producing charts of the coast, which may be
obtained at Washington or from the agencies of the Survey in the large
maritime cities. Charts of the Great Lakes, published by the U. S. Corps
of Engineers, may be purchased from the Chief of Engineers (Washington).
The maps of the Wheeler and Hayden Surveys, covering extensive regions
in the West (4 M. per inch), can now be obtained only of second-hand
booksellers. Maps of the whole or parts of their states have been published
by the Geological Surveys of New Jersey, New Hampshire, Pennsylvania,
Kentucky, Wisconsin, Missouri, Arkansas, Texas, Minnesota, California, etc.
— Messrs. Rand & McNally publish maps of all the States in the Union.
1. From Europe to New York.
As most European visitors to the United States land at New
York, the following hrief notes on the chief oceanic routes to that
port may be of serrice. Lines also run from European ports to
Boston (p. 253), Philadelphia (p. 158), Baltimore (p. 203), etc. Many
of the steamers on the principal lines are equipped with wireless
telegraphic apparatus. For general hints as to the voyage, see p. xy.
a. From Liverpool to New York.
This is tlie route followed by the Cunard Steamship Co. and by some
of the steamers of the White Star Line. The fastest steamers take about
SVz days from port to port (comp. p. 3), the slowest 8-9 days. Tbe distance
varies from 3000 to 3100 nautical miles (ca. 3400-3550 Engl. M.) according
to the course followed, New York time is 5 brs. behind that of Liverpool,
The Cunard turbine-steamer 'Mauretania'' holds the record for the
fastest passages from New York to Queenstown (4 days 20 hrs. 15 min.)
and from Queenstown to New York (4 days 17 hrs. 6 min.). These two
steamers are the largest vessels afloat (790 ft. long, 88 ft. wide; horse
power 68,000; gross tonnage 32,500; displacement 45,000 tons).
Liverpool., see Baedeker s Handbook to Great Britain,. Passengers
board the Atlantic steamers from the Landing Stage. As we pass
down the wide estuary of the Mersey, we see the crowded docks of
Liverpool to the right, while to the left lies New Brighton^ with its
pier, fort, and lighthouse. The mouth of the river is marked by a
lightship, which we reach in about 2 hrs. after starting. Farther on,
in clear weather, we see the Welsh coast to the left (S.), with the
Little and Great Ormes Heads backed by the distant Snowdon
Group. Later we skirt the N. coast of the Isle of Anglesey, then turn
to the left, and steer to the S.W. through St. George's Channel, soon
losing sight of land. The Skerries (lighthouse) lie off the N.W. point
of Anglesey.
The first part of the Irish coast sighted is usually Carnsore Point,
in Wexford, the S.E. corner of the island, off which lies the Tuskar
Rock Lighthouse. In about 12-15 hrs. after leaving Liverpool we
enter the beautiful inner harbour of Queenstown (about 240 knots
from Liverpool), where a halt is made to take on board the mails
and additional passengers.
On leaving Queenstown, we skirt the S. coast of Ireland for some
distance, passing several bold rocky headlands. The last piece of
European land seen is usually the Fastnet Rock (lighthouse), off
Cape Clear Island, 60 M. to the S.W. of Queenstown, or, in clear
weather, Dursey Island, with the adjacent Bull Rock Lighthouse.
In crossing the Atlantic Ocean fromE. to W. the steamer descends
through about 11 degrees of latitude (Queenstown 51° 50' N. lat.,
^ Route 1. NEW YORK HARBOUR. From Europe
New York 40*^ 42' 43"). The course varies somewhat according to
the season of the year and from other causes. The northerly route
(followed from July to Jan.) takes the steamers o\ei the Grand BanJc
of Newfoundland [30-80 f&thoms), while the southerly route followed
for the rest of the year passes to the S. of it. Icebergs are occasionally
seen above 42° N. lat. and between 45*^ and 50° E. long. Whales,
porpoises, etc., are also seen from time to time. The 'day's run' of
the steamer, given in nautical miles (7 'knots' = about 8 Engl. M.),
is usually posted up every day at noon in the companion-way. The
traveller should remember that his watch will gain about 2/4 hr.
daily in going W. and lose the same amount in going E.
The following list of tlie colours of tlie funnels ('smoke-stacks') of
tlie principal steamsMp-lines will help to identify pa-sing steamers. Amer-
ican, black, with white band; ^?icMr, black (English flag); Atlantic Trans-
port, red, with black top; Compagnie GiniraU TruTisatlantique, red, with black
top (French flag); Cunard, red, with black top and three narrow black
bands; Hamburg, bufl" (express steamers) or black (German flag); Holland-
America, black, with green and white bands ; Italian, black, with central
white band; North German Lloyd, buff; Red Star, black, with white band;
Scandinavian, black, red, and black; White Star, salmon, with black top.
The first American land sighted is usually either Fire Island
(p. 80) or the Navesink Highlands (p. 177), each with a lighthouse;
but before either of these we see the Nantucket Lightship (192 M.
from the Sandy Hook Lightship), which communicates by wireless
telegraphy with Siasconset (comp. p. 278) and reports incoming
vessels. About 3 hrs. after sighting land we approach Sandy Hook
Bar, the Highlands standing out boldly to the left. The chief points
for crossing the bar are the Ambrose Channel (40 ft. deep, 1000 ft.
wide) and the Gedney Channel, while smaller ships may also use
the South Channel. The time of the voyage is reckoned to (or from)
Ambrose Channel Lightship. We leave the lighthouse of Sandy Hook
(p. 177 ; white light) to the left, enter the Lower Bay of New York
(p. 31), and steer to the N. toward the Narrows, or entrance to New
York Bay proper (p. 31), between the wooded Staten Island (p. 72)
on the left and Long Island (p. 79) to the right. On the former are
Fort Wadsworth, Fort Tompkins, and a lighthouse; on the latter
lies Fort Hamilton, while on a rocky island in the channel is Fort
Lafayette, where many Southerners were confined during the Civil
War. About 3 M. farther up is the Upper Quarantine Station (at
Clifton^, off which all vessels anchor until they have been cleared
by the officer of the Board of Health. About halfway between the
Quarantine Station and New Y^ork, to the left, is Bobbins Reef, with
a lighthouse.
As we advance up the beautiful *New York Harbour (p. 31),
the city of Brooklyn (p. 74) lies to the right and Jersey City (p. 73)
to the left, while New York lies straight ahead. Liberty or Bedloe's
Island, with the colossal statue of Liberty enlightening the World
(p. 71), lies nearly in mid-channel, while Governors Island (with
Castle Williams; headquarters of the Military Department of the
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to New York. ENGLISH CHANNEL. 1. Route. 3
Atlantic) lies to the right, close inshore. To the left, beyond Liherty
Island, is the small Ellis Island, where emigrants now land (comp.
p. 72). Brooklyn Bridge [p. 40), spanning the East River (p. 31)
and connecting New York with Brooklyn, is seen to the right, with
glimpses of the newer bridges beyond.
As the steamer approaches her dock, in the North (Hudson) River,
the conspicnous features in New York include the Whitehall, Wash-
ington, and Bowling Green Buildings (pp. 33, 34), towering over the
Custom House (p. 33) ; the Singer Building (612 ft. high; p. 37) and
many other 'sky-scrapers' in Broadway (p. 34), almost hiding the
spire of Trinity Church (p. 36) ; the West Street Building (PI. B, 2; I) ;
the huge twin structures of the Hudson River Tunnel Terminal
(p. 37); the St. Paul (p. 37) and Park Row Buildings (p. 38); and
the gilded dome of the PuLitzer Building (p. 38). Passengers are
landed directly on the wharf, attend to the custom-house exam-
ination of their baggage (comp. p. xv) , and then drive to their
destination, either taking their trunks with them or entrusting them
to one of the numerous transfer-agents or express-agents who meet
the steamer (comp. p. xviii).
New York, see R. 2.
b. From Southampton to New York vik Cherbourg.
This is tlie routb followed by the American Line (International Mer-
cantile Marine Co.), sailing under tlie Amrican flag, and also by some of the
steamers of the ivhiie Star Line (p. 1). The distance from Southampton
to New York is 3075 knots, and the usual duration of the voyage is
61/2-T1/2 days. Passeng rs are conveyed by special trains from London to
Southampton (1^/4 hr.). The steamers then proceed to Cherriourg, to meet
passengers frotn Paris (special train at 9.20 a.m.), snd leave this port at
5 p.m. Southampton time is 5 hrs, ahead of that of New York.
Southampton, see Baedeker^ s Great Britain. The steamer descends
Southampton Water and passes through the Solent, affording a good
view of hurst Castle to the right and of the Needles to the left (light-
house ; red flashing light). The time of the voyage is reckoned from
this point. To the right lies St. Alban's Head. The steamer next
crosses to Cherbourg (see p. 4) and then proceeds to the W. through
the English Channel. Start Point (white flashing light) and Eddy-
stone Lighthouse (one fixed and one flashing light) in Plymouth Bay
are seen to the right. The last point seen of the English mainland
is Lizard Head, in Cornwall, and the last European land sighted is
the Scilly Isles (lighthouse), about 30 M. to the S.W. of the Land's
End. — The rest of the voyage is similar to that described in R. la.
c. From Hamburg to New York.
The ^Express Steamers of the Hamburg -American Line ply to New
York via Southampton and Cherbourg (6V2-8 days; from Southampton to
Cherbourg, 78 M., in 5 hrs. ; from Cherbourg to New York, 3027 M., iu
4 Route 1. GOODWIN SANDS. From Europe
51/2-7 days), while the boats of the Regulae Seevioe run to New York
(3505 knots, in 11 d ys) via Boulogne-sur-Mer and Plymouth. The 'Deutsch-
land' of this line holds the record for the quickest passages from New York
to Plymou<:h (5 days 7 hrs. 38 min.) and from Cherbourg to New York
(5 days 11 hrs. 54 min.).
The Express Steamers start from Cuxhaven (landing-stage, with waiting-
rooms and restaurant), at the mouth of the Elbe, 58 M. from Hamburg, to
which passengers are forwarded by special train (2 hrs.), while the other
boats start from Hamburg itself (see Baedeker''s EanMoolc to Northern Get^-
many). At Cuxhaven, Southampton, BouJogne, and Cherbourg passengers
embark by tenders. Passengers are carried between London and 8outh-
ampton and between Paris and Cherbourg or Bjulogne by special trains.
New York time is 4 hrs. 54 min. behind that of Southampton and 5 hrs.
35 min. behind that of Hamburg.
On the SS. -Amerika' and Kaiserin Auguste Victoria' the passengers
may be booked on the 'European plan', receiving a rebate of $ 15-25 from
the regular fare and paying for their meals in 'Ritz's Carlton Restaurant'.
On the 'Deutschland' a la carte meals are served in the grill-room.
Leaving Cuxhaven, the steamer steers to the N.W., passing the
tlree Elbe Lightships and affording a distant view of the red rocks of
Heligoland to the right. Various other German, Dutch, and Belgian
lights are visihle. The first English lights are those of the Galloper
Lightship and the Goodwin Sands. Farther on we pass through
the Straits of Dover, with the English and French coasts visible
to the right and left. The steamer of the direct service keeps on
her way through mid-channel, while the express steamer hugs the
English coast, passes between the Isle of Wight and the mainland
(with Portsmouth to the right) , and enters Southampton Water
(430 knots), where it generally anchors off Calshot Castle, to receive
the British mails and passengers from Southampton (see Baedeker^s
Great Britain). It next proceeds to Cherbourg (see Baedekers
Northern France), to take on additional passengers and mails. The
boats of the regular service embark their Paris passengers at Bou-
logne. The remainder of the route to New York is similar to that of
R. lb. The docks of the Hamburg-American Line are at Hoboken
(p. 73), on the W. side of the North River, whence passengers are
conveyed to New York by large ferry-steamers.
d. From Bremen to New York.
The twin-screw Express Steamers of the North German Lloyd (Nord-
deutscher Lloyd) run to New York (3560 knots, in 6V2-7 days) via Soiithampton
and Cherbourg, while the slower boats, calling alternately at Southampton
and Cherbourg, take about 10 days. Others run to New York direct. The
steamers start from (40 M.) Bremerhaven^ at the mouth of the Weser, to
which passengers are forwarded by special train. See Baedekei'''s Northern
Germany. Ihe 'Kaiser Wilhelm der Zweite' of this line holds the record
for the quickest passage frum New York to Cherbourg (5 days 8 hrs. 20 min.).
All the Express Steamers are provided with 'Vienna cafes'. New York
time is 51/2 hrs. behind that of Bremen.
On issuing from the mouth of the Weser, the steamer steers to the
N.W., with the Jahdebusen opening to the left. A little farther on it
passes the East Frisian Islands. The rest of the voyage is similar to that
described in R. Ic. Southampton Is about 460 M. from Bremerhaven.
to New York. NORTH SEA. 1. Route. 5
e. From Havre to New York.
This route is followed by the French steamers of the Compagnie G6ni-
rale Transatlantique. The distance is 3095 knots and the average time
6-7V2 days. New York time is 5 hrs. 10 min. behind that of Havre.
Havre, see Baedeker s Handbook to Northern France. The steamer
steers out into the English Channel, affording distant views of Cape
La Hague and the Channel Islands to the left, and of the Scilly Is-
lands to the right. The farther course of the voyage resemhles that
of the steamers of the German and American lines, as ahove descrihed.
f. From Antwerp to New York.
This is the route of the Red Star Line (3340-3410 knots, in 8 days). The
steamers sail every Sat. and call at Dover. New York time is 5^/4 hrs. behind
that of Antwerp.
Antwerp, see Baedeker s Handbook to Holland and Belgium. The
steamer descends the West Schelde, with the Dutch province of Zea-
land on either side, passes (40 M.) Flushing, on the island of Walche-
ren (right), and enters the North Sea. In very clear weather the towers
of Bruges and Ostend may sometimes he distinguished to the left
farther on. The first English land sighted is the high chalk cliffs of
the South Foreland (see helow). The course after the call at Dover
(see Baedeker^s Great Britain} is similar to that of the German,
French, and American Line steamers (see ahove).
g. From Eotterdam to New York.
This is the route of the Holland- America Line, sailing under the Dutch
flag (3400 M., in 8-10 days). At low water the steamers start from the
Hook of Holland. They call at Boulogne-sur-Mer.
Rotterdam, see Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. The steamers
descend the Maas or Meuse and the Nieuwe Waterweg (canal),
passing the Hoek van Holland at its mouth, and enter the North
Sea. — The suhsequent course is similar to that descrihed in R. 1 f.
h. From London to New York.
This is the route of the Atlantic Transport Line (3280 knots, in 81/2-
10 days). The steamers start at Tilbury Docks, reached by special train
(V2 hr.) from St. Paneras Station. New York time is 5 hrs. behind that
of London.
Tilbury, see Baedeker's Handbook to London. The steamers
descend the estuary of the Thames, passing hetween Southend and
Shoeburyness on the left and Sheerness and Queenboro on the right.
Rounding the North Foreland (light), they steer to the S., passing
Deal, the South Foreland (two fixed electric lights), and Dover. The
rest of the voyage is similar to that descrihed in R. 1 c.
Route 1 . CHRISTIANIA FJORD.
i. From Glasgow to New York.
This is the route of the Anchor Line (2900 knots, in 71/2-9 days; from
Moville, 2800 knots, in 7-8 days). Passengers may join the steamer at Glas-
gow, Oreenock, or Moville. The difference of time between Glasgow and
New York is 43/4 hrs.
For Glasgow and the beautiful voyage down the Firth of Clyde,
see Baedeker's Great Britain. The steamer then rounds the Mull of
Cantyre and proceeds to the W. along the N. coast of Ireland, afford-
ing a view of Rathlin Island. [Sometimes the steamer passes be-
tween Rathlin and the mainland, affording a distant view (1.) of the
Giant's Causeway.] Some steamers ascend Lough Foyle to Moville,
the port of Londonderry, where mail and extra-passengers are taken
on board. On issuing from Lough Foyle the steamer steers at first
to the W. and then, after passing Malin Head, the northernmost point
of Ireland, to the S.W. The last part of Ireland seen is usually Tory
Island [lighthouse) or Arranmore , off the coast of Donegal. The
general course across the Atlantic is considerably to the N. of that
of the Liverpool boats, not joining the latter till the Banks of New-
foundland (p. 2).
k. From Copenhagen, Christiania, and Christiansand to New York.
The steamers of the Scandinavian-American Line ply from Copenhagen
to New York (3705 knots) in about 11 days, calling at (275 knots) Christiania
one day and at (165 knots) Christiansand' two days after starting. New York
time is 51/2 hrs. behind that of Copenhagen and Christiania.
Copenhagen, see Baedeker's Norway, Sweden, and Denmark. The
steamer steers up the Cattegat to Christiania, at the head of the
picturesque Christiania Fjord. It then retraces its course through
the fjord and follows the coast of Norway to Christiansand. Leaving
Christiansand, the steamer steers to the W. , round the N. coast of
Scotland, passing through the Pentland Firth and within sight of
the Orkney Islands. Farther on it turns to the S.W. and eventually
joins the route described in R. 1 a, off the Banks of Newfoundland.
1. From Genoa and Naples to New York.
The Italian Royal Mail Steamship Co. (Navigazione Generale lialiana)
maintains, in conjunction with the steamers of La Veloce (Navigazione
Jtaliana a Vapore) , a weekly service on this route, while steamers of
the North Oerman Lloyd, the Hamburg-American, and the Cunard lines ply
every fortnight (weekly during the height of the season). The distance
from Genoa to New York is 4500 knots (13 days), from Naples to New
York 4150 knots (12 days). New York time is 6 hrs. behind that of Italy.
For the Italian ports, see Baedeker s Italy. Leaving Genoa we
steer to the S. to Naples. We then turn towards the W. to Gibraltar.
Beyond the straits, our course is slightly to the N. of W.
I. THE MIDDLE STATES.
Route Page
2. New York 10
Practical Information.
a. Arrival. Railway Stations. Steamers 10
b. Hotels, Restaurants, etc 12
c. City Railroads. Tramways. Post Office, etc. ... 15
d. Theatres. Concerts. Sport. Clubs, etc 20
e. Shops. Baths. Libraries. Churches. Streets. Collec-
tions, etc 25
Remarks on the Situation, History, and Characteristics
of New York. The Harbour 29
Business Quarters and Broadway 33
Battery. Aquarium. Bowling Green. Custom House 33. —
Produce Exchange. Broadway 34. — Wall Street. Stock
Exchange 35. — Trinity Church 36. — Hudson Terminal
Buildings. St. Paul s Church. Post Office 37. — City
Hall. Court House. Register's Office. Park Row 33. —
Bowery. Five Points 39. — Brooklyn Bridge 40. — Tombs.
Astor Library 41. — Cooper Institute. Grace Church.
Union Square 42. — Tammany Hall. Flat-iron Building.
Madison Square. Appellate Court House 43. — Young
Men's Christian Association 44. — Metropolitan Opera
House. Columbus Monument 45.
Fifth Avenue 45
Washington Square 46. — Waldorf-Astoria Hotel. Union
League Club. Public Library 47. — Temple Emanu-
El. St. Patricks Cathedral 48. — Vanderbilt Houses
49. — Lenox Library 50. — Mount Morris Square 51.
Fourth Avenue (Park Avenue) 51
Grand Central Station 52.
Lexington and Madison Avenues 52, 53
Madison Square Garden. First, Second, and Third Avenues
53. — Sixth and Seventh Avenues. Pennsylvania Rail-
road Station. Eighth Avenue. New York Historical
Society 54. — Ninth and Tenth (Amsterdam) Avenues.
National Academy of Design 55.
Central Park. American Museum of Natural History.
The Metropolitan Museum 55, 56, 58
St. John's Cathedral. Columbia University 66. — River-
side Drive 67. — Soldiers and Sailors Monument. Tomb
of General Grant 68. — College of the City of New York.
Washington Heights 69. — Water Supply of New York.
Borough of the Bronx 70. — New York Zoological Society.
Botanical Gardens. Islands in the East River. Statue
of Liberty 71.
Environs of New York 72
Staten Island 72. — New Jersey Shore (Jersey City, Ho-
boken). From New York to Putnam Junction (Brewster)
73. — From New York to Chatham 74.
3. Brooklyn and Long Island 74
Coney Island. West Brighton. Brighton Beach. Man-
hattan Beach 79. — Rockaway Beach. Long Beach.
From Brooklyn to Greenport and to Montauk 80.
Baedeker's United States, 4th Edit. 1
THE MIDDLE STATES.
Route Page
4. From New York to Albany 81
a. By Steamer 81
b. Yia Railway on the East Bank 86
c. Via Railway on the West Bank . .^ 88
From Kingston to Campbell Hall 90. — Lakes Mohonk
and Minnewaska 91.
5. Albany 91
6. From Albany to Bingbamton 96
Sharon Springs. Cherry Valley. Cooperstown. Otsego
Lake 96.
7. The Catskill Mountains 97
a. From Catskill to the Catskill Mountain House and the
Hotel Kaaterskill 93. — b. From Kingston (Eondout) to
the Hotel Kaaterskill 101. — c. From Rondout (Kingston)
to Oneonta 103.
8. The Adirondack Mountains 104
a. From Plattsburg to St. Regis, Tupper, Saranac, and
Placid Lakes 106. — b. From Port Kent to Ausable
Chasm and Lake Placid 108. — c. From Westport to
Elizabethtown, Keene Valley, and Lake Placid (Adiron-
dack Lodge. Indian Pass) 109. — d. From IFtica to
Malone via the Tupper and Saranac Lakes (Raquette
Lake. Blue Mountain Lake. Long Lake) 115. — e. From
Saratoga to North Creek. Schroon Lake 119.
9. Saratoga 119
Saratoga Lake 121. — Mt. McGregor 122.
10. Lake George and Lake Cbamplain 122
11. From New York to Montreal via Valley of the Hudson 126
a. Via Albany [or Troy), Saratoga, and Lake Champlain l26
From Fort Edward to Lake George Station (Caldwell)
127. — From Plattsburg to Ausable Forks 128.
b. Via Troy, Rutland, and Burlington 128
c. Via Utica and the Adirondacks 129
12. From New York to Buffalo and Niagara Falls . . . .129
a. Via New York Central and Hudson River Railroad . 129
Johnstown. The Six liations 130. — From TTtica to
Ogdensburg. Trenton Falls. From Utica to Bingham-
ton. Richfield Springs 131. — Watertown. Oneida 132.
— From Auburn to Freeville 133. — Seneca Lake.
Watkins Glen. Havana Glen 134. — From Canandaigua
to "Watkins. Lake Keuka 135. — Excursions from
Buffalo 139.
b. Via West Shore Railroad 139
c. Via Delaware, Lackawanna, & Western Railroad. . 140
Delaware Water Gap 140.
d. Via Erie Railroad 142
Tuxedo Lake. Greenwood Lake 142. — Pike County 148.
e. Via Lehigh Valley Railroad 144
13. From Auburn to Ithaca 145
Cayuga Lake 145. — Taughanic Fall, From Ithaca to
Freeville. George Junior Republic 146.
14. Niagara Falls 146
15. The St. Lawrence River and Thousand Islands . . . 153
THE MIDDLE STATES.
Route Page
16. From New York to PhiJadelpMa 156
a. Yia Pennsylvania Railroad . 156
Princeton University 156.
b. Via Reading System (Bound Brook Route) . ... 157
17. PMladelphia 158
Camden City. From PMladelpMa to Germantown and
Chestnut Hill; to West Chester 1T5.
18. Summer and Winter Resorts of New Jersey 176
a. From New York to Long Branch and Point Pleasant
by Rail 176. — b. From New York to Long Branch via
Atlantic Highlands and Sandy Hook 177. — c. From
Philadelphia to Long Branch 177. — d. Barnegat Bay
178. — e. From New York to Lakewood and Atlantic
City 179. — f. From Philadelphia to Atlantic City 180.
— g. From Philadelphia to Cape May 181.
19. From Philadelphia to Buffalo 182
a. Via Bethlehem and Mauch Chunk 182
Valley of Wyoming. From Wilkes-Barre to Nineveh 184.
h. Via Williamsport and Emporium 185
From Williamsport to Satterfield 135.
20. From Philadelphia to Reading and Williamsport . . . 186
Ephrata 186. — From Port Clinton to Pottsville 187.
21. From Philadelphia to Erie 187
22. From Philadelphia to Harrisburg and Pittsburg . . . 188
From Harrisburg to Gettysburg; to Winchester; to
Reading; and to Williamsport 18li.
23. Gettysburg 192
24. Pittsburg 197
From Pittsburg to Connellsville; to Buffalo (Oil City);
to Erie; to Cleveland; and to Wheeling 201.
25. From Philadelphia to Baltimore 201
From Wilmington to Cape Charles 202.
26. Baltimore 203
Chesapeake Bay 208. — From Baltimore to Cumberland;
to Harrisburg; and to Annapolis 209.
27. From Baltimore to Washington 210
a. Via Philadelphia, Baltimore, & Washington Railroad 210
b. Via Baltimore & Ohio Railroad ('Royal Blue Line') . 210
c. Via Washington, Baltimore, & Annapolis Electric Ry. 210
d. By Water 210
28. Washington. 211
Excursions. Georgetown, Arlington 227. From Wash-
ington to Norfolk; and to Mt. Vernon 228.
29. From New York to Chicago 229
a. Via Philadelphia and Pittsburg 229
b. Via Buffalo and Detroit 229
c. Via Buffalo and Port Huron 230
d. Via Buffalo and Cleveland 230
e. Via Oswego and Suspension Bridge 230
f. Via Salamanca and Marion (Chautauqua) . . . .231
g. Via Baltimore and Washington 232
10
2. New York.
The subjoined General Plan of 'Sew York is referred to simply as PI.;
that of the Lower Town or Business Section (p. 33) is referred to as PI. J
and that of the Central Section (p. 42) of the city as PI. II.
a. Arrival. Railway Stations. Steamers.
Arrival. Strangers arriving in New York hy sea will find an explana-
tion of the custom-house formalities at p. xv. All the main steamship
landings are near tramway-lines (p. 18), and numerous hacks and cabs
are always in waiting (bargaining advisable; fare to hotel for 1-2 pers.,
luggage included, at least § 2). A few hotels send carriages to meet the
European steamers. Transfer Agents (see pp. xviii, 20) are also on hand
to receive trunks and forward them to any address (25-50 c. ; not always
delivered the same day). Travellers landing on the New Jersey (or W.)
side cross to New York by ferry, and may often find it convenient to do
so in cabs (new tunnels for electric cars, see p. 17). Those coming by
railway from the S. and W. cross the river by ferries in connection with
the railways, and claim their baggage at the ferry-house in New York
(see below). Travellers from Canada and the North, or from the West by
the N. Y. C. R, R. route, arrive at the Grand Central Station (see below
and p. 52), in the heart of the city, and may use the Elevated Railway
(see p. 15), the Subway (p. 16), or the surface-cars (p. 18) to reach their
city destination. Cab-fares, see p. 18.
Railway Stations (Depots). The Grand Central Station (p. 52; Pl.G, 3),
E. 42nd St., between Lexington and Madison Avenues, is, at present, the
only terminal station in New York proper. It is a large and well-arranged
building, with a restaurant (closed on Sun.) and the other usual appoint-
ments of a modern American railway-station, and is used by the trains of
the New York Central & Hudson River Railroad (for Canada and the N.,
Chicago and the W., etc.), and the New York, New Haven, & Hartford
Railroad (for Boston and New England, etc.). — Some local trains of the
New York Central R. R., for stations nv to Spuyten Duyvil (p. 86), start from
the station at Tenth Ave. and W. 30th St. (PI. F, 1), while others (Put-
nam Division), for Van Cortlandt, Yonkers, etc., start at 8th Ave. and
155th St. (PI. Q, 2 ; p. 16).
The other great railway systems have their depots on the New Jersey
side of the North River and convey passengers to and from them by large
ferry-boats. The ferry-houses, however, furnish the same opportunities for
the purchase of tickets, checking baggage, etc., as the railway-stations, and
the times of departure and arrival of trains by these lines are given with
reference to the New York side of the river. — Pennsylvania Railroad De-
pot (PI. A. B, 1). Montgomery St., Jersey City, reached by ferries from W.
23rd St. (PI- F, 1), Desbrosses St. (PI. C, 2), and Cortlandt St. (PI. B, 2),
used by trains of the Pennsylvania Railroad (for all points in the West
and South), and also by the Lehigh Valley, the New York, Susquehanna
& Western, and the Long Branch Railroads. For new station in New
York and the connecting tunnels, see p. 54. — Erie Railroad Depot (comp.
PI. B 1 and map at p. 72), Pavonia Ave., Jersey City, reached by ferries
from Chambers St. (PI. B, 2) and W. 23rd St. (PI. F, 1), used by the Erie
Railroad and its branches. — West Shoi'e Station (comp. map at p. 72),
Weehawken. reached by ferries from Franklin St. (Fl. C, 2) and W.
42nd St. (PI. G, 1), used by the West Shore Railroad (for the same districts
as the N. Y, Central Railroad) and the New York, Ontario, <fe Western
Railroad. — Delaware, Lackawanna, andWestern Station (PI. C, 1) Hoboken,
reached by ferries from Christopher (PI. D, 1, 2), Barclay (PI. B, 2), and
W. 23rd Sts. (PI. F, 1), or by the new tunnel (p. 17), used by the Delaware,
Lackawanna, <fe Western Railroad (for New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and
Western New York). — Central Railroad of New Jersey Depot (PL A, 1),
Communipaw, reached by ferries from Liberty St. (PI. B, 2) and W. 23rd St.
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steamers. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 11
(PL F, 1), naed also by the Baltimore & Ohio, the Long Branch, and the
Philadelphia & Reading Railroads.
For Brooklyn stations, see p, 74; for Long Island stations, see p. 78.
Steamers. 1. Ocean Steamships. The following is a list of the chief
Passenger Steamship Lines between New York and Europe, with their
docks, city- offices, and days of sailing (comp. R. i and p. xv). Cunard
Line. Piers 51 & 52, North River, foot of Jane St. (PI. D, F. 1; office. 21 State
St. ; Wed. & Sat. ; to Gibraltar, Genoa, and Naples fortnitihtly) ; White Star
Line, Pier 48, at foot of W. 11th St. (PI. D, i; office, 9 ^Broadway; Wed.
(fe Thurs.; to Mediterranean ports once or twice a month); American Line
(International Mercantile Marine Co.), Pier 15, foot of Vesey St. (PI. B, 2;
office, 9 Broadway; Sat.); Holland- America Line, foot of 5th St., Hoboken
(PL D, 1; office, 39 Broadway; to Boulogne and Rotterdam on Tues.);
Anchor Line, Dock 54, foot of W. 24th St. (PL F, 1; office, 17 Broadway;
Sat.) ; Compagnie Ginirale Transatlantique (French Line), Pier 42, Morton St.
(PL D, 1; office, 19 State St ; Thurs.); North German Lloyd, foot of 2nd,
3rd, and 4th Sts., Hoboken (PLD, 1; office, 5 Broadway; Tues. <fe Thurs.;
to Gibraltar, Genoa, and Naples weekly); Hamburg- American Line, foot
of Newark St. and 1st St., Hoboken (PL D, C, 1 ; office, 37 Broadway ; Sat.,
Thurs., & Tues.; to Genoa and Naples weekly); Red Star Line (International
Mercantile Marine Co.), Pier 14, foot of Fulton St. (PL B, 2; office, 9 Bmad-
way; Sat. or Wed.); Atlantic Transport, Piers 39 & 40, foot of W. Houston
and ClarksonSts. (PLD, C, 1; office, 9 Broadway; Sat.); Italian Royal Mail
Line, for Genoa and Naples, Pier 74, foot of W. 34th St. (PL G, 1; office,
50 Wall St. ; Wed. ; also fortnightly to theW. Indies); Scandiiiavian-American
Line, foot of 17th St., Hoboken (office, 1 Broadway; Thurs.). — Other
ocean-going steamships ply to the ports of S. and Central America, the West
Indies, Mexico, Cuba, Porto Rico, Florida, New Orleans, Richmond, and
other ports of the Southern States, the Mediterranean ports, Fiume, Boston,
Philadelphia, Portland (Maine), Newfoundland, etc. — The times of depar-
ture and other information are advertised in the daily papers.
2. RivEK, Sound, and Haebouk Steameks. The following are a few
of the principal points on the Hudson, Long Island Sound, and N. Y.
Harbour, reached by steamer from New York. For full information on
these and otlier lines, reference must be made to current time-tables
[e.g. in BuUinger, see p. 28) and daily papers. The larger American
river steamboats are very finely fitted up, and the traveller should not
omit an inspection of one of the Fall River or Hudson River boats, even
if he does not travel by them. They are very unlike European boats,
rising in house-like tiers high above the water, and propelled by paddle-
wheels and (often) 'walking-beam'' engines, the long shafts of which pro-
trude above the middle of the deck. The 'smoke-stacks' or funnels are
also unlike the European pattern. There are good restaurants on board,
and a comfortable private stateroom (2-3 berths) may be obtained for a
small addition to the regular fare (usually 3 1-2 per night ; large rooms with
brass bedsteads $ 5). The Hudson River boats cease running in winter,
but most of the Sound boats ply throughout the year. — To Albany (p. 91),
either by the Hudson River Day Line or the People's Line (fares, etc.,
see p. 81). — To Catskill (p. 98) and Hudson (p. 88), either by the Hudson
River Day Line (see above; $1^/2; 6^/4 hrs.) or by the Catt.kill Evening
Line from the foot of Christopher St. ($11/4; night-boat, 11 hrs.). — To
Rondout (p. 90), by the Day Line (see above) or by the 'Mary PowelL
Pesbrosses St.; 90c). — To Troy (p. 128), by the Citizen's Line ($ IV2,
round trip $21/2; 12 hrs.). — To West Point (p. 89), by the Day Line (see
above; 75 c.; 31/4 hrs.) or by the 'Mary Powell' (see above; same fare;
3 hrs.). — To Boston (p. 253), by the Metropolitan Line (15 hrs.; $3.65;
p. 246) or by the Fall River, Providence, or Norwich line (fare from S 2.65
to $3.65 ace. to the season; 12V2-14V2 hrs. ; for all details, see p. 246).—
To Coney Island (p. 79), .from W. 22nd St., from Pier 10 (foot of Cedar
St.), and from W. 129th St., hourly or oftener in summer (fare 15 c.;
50_min.). — ToLong Branch (p. 178), from Pier 8, North River, thrice
daily in summer (35 c). — To Providence, Newport, Fall River, and New
London, see R. 30 d (p. 246). — Ferries, see p. 19.
12 Route 2. NEW YORK. HoUls.
b. Hotels, Eestaurants, etc.
Hotels t (comp. p. xxii). The distinction between the four geographical
groups in which the hotels of New York are here distributed is a some-
what arbitrary one, but it will perhaps give the traveller some help in
selecting his quarters. As a general rule those who wish to be near the
business-districts should select a 'Down Town' hotel, or at any rate, one
not higher up than 14th St., while the ordinary tourist will probably find
himself best suited between Madison Square and Central Park. For the
diflFerence between the 'American'' and 'European' plans, see p. xsiii.
BoiDTi Town (from the Battery to Canal St.). On the European Plan:
*AsTOE House (PI. ah, B 3; 7), 225 Broadway, opposite the Post Office, an
old and popular house, much frequented by business-men, B,. from $ li/z;
Cosmopolitan, 127 Chambers St. (PI. B, 3 ; /), E. from $ 1 5 Smith & McNell's,
195 Washington St. (PI. B, 2), E. from 50 c.
Between Canal St. and 14th St. 1. European Plan : Lafatette-Bkevooet
House (PI. lb; D, E, 3), at the corner of Fifth Ave. and Clinton Place, R.
from $2; St. Denis (PI. sd; E, 3), cor. of Broadway and 11th St., good
cuisine, E. from S 1; Hotel Lafatette (PI. 1, E 3; French), 17 University
Place, cor. 9th St., with excellent cuisine, E. frona. $1; Albebt (PI. m;
E, 3), 75 University Place, cor. of E. 11th St., E. from S 1. — 2. American
and European: Beoadway Central (PI. be; D, 3), 667 Broadway (1000
beds), from S 21/2, R. from $ 1.
From 14th Si. to 26th St. (incl. Union Sq. and Madison Sq.). — 1. Euro-
pean Plan: Hoffman House (PI. n, F3; II), Madison Sq., cor. of 25th St.,
much frequented by Democratic politicians. E. from $2; The Chelsea
(PL ch, F 2; //), 222 W. 23rd St., E. from $ IV2, with bath from $ 2, com-
fortable and conveniently situated; Albemaele (PI. v, F3; //), cor. Broad-
way and 24th St., Madison Sq., E. $ 2V2, good cuisine; Westminstee (PI. s,
E 3; 11), Irving Place, cor. 16th St., frequented by Spaniards, E. from $ 1;
New Amsterdam, Fourth Ave., cor. 21st St., E. from $ 1 ; Maegaeet Louisa
Home (Pi. ml, E 3: II), 14 W. 16th St., practically a moderate-priced hotel
for business-women (see p. 46; previous application advisable). — 2. Amer-
ican and European Plan : Ashland (PI. t, F 3 ; //), 315 Fourth Ave., cor.
24th St., commercial, § 2V2-3, E. $1.
Above Madison Square. 1. European Plan : *Waldoef-Astobla. (PI. a,
G 3; 77), at the cor. of Fifth Ave. and 34th St. (comp. p. 47), E. from
$ 21/2; *St. Eegis (PI. sr, H 3 ; 77), Fifth Ave., cor. of 55th St., with 450rooms
and a fine library of 2000 vols., E. with bath from $4; *Hotel Astoe (PI. r,
G 2 ; 77), Times Square (p.45l, cor. of Seventh Ave. & 44th St., E. from $21/2,
with bath from $ 8V2 (7l'0 rooms) ; Knickeebockee (PI. k, Gr2; 77), Broad-
way, cor. of 42nd St., E. from $2, with bath from $ 3 (600 rooms) ; New
Plaza (PI. np, I 3; 77). at the cor. of Fifth Ave. and 59th St., adjoining
Central Park, R. from $ 21/2, with bath from $ 4 (760 rooms) ; 'Gotham (PI. g,
H 3 ; 77), Fifth Ave., opposite the St. Eegis (see above), E. with bath from
3 2, for two from $ 3. These six are huge and fashionable houses of the
highest class, sumptuously equipped and decorated, with large ball-rooms,
winter-gardens, rouf-gardens, and so on. — *Holland House (PI. q, F 3; II),
Fifth Ave., cor. 30th St., somewhat smaller and quieter than the above,
E. from $ 2; *Savot (PL s a, 13; 771, =Netheeland (PL ne, 13; 77), both
opposite the New Plaza (see above), E. from $2; Belmont (PL b, G 3; 77),
42ad St. (27 stories; 700 rooms), E. from $ 2, with bath from $ 3; Mureat
•{■ Strangers who do not put up at any of the largest and most gorgeous
hostelries of New York should at least visit one of them to obtain an idea
of their lavish decorations and elaborate contrivances for convenience and
comfort. A courteous application to see over the hotel is seldom refused,
even if no meal has been taken in the house. Among the most notable
houses are the Waldorf-Astoria (mural paintings by Blashfield and other
American artists), the Hotel Astor (largest kitchen in the world), the New
Plaza, the Knickerbocker, the St. Eegis (mural decorations by E.V.V. Sewell
and Flemish tapestry), the Gotham, and the Manhattan (mural paintings by
C- Y. Turner). Afternoon tea may be obtained at most of these for 25-50 c.
HoteU. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 13
Hill (PI. mh, G 3; //), Park Ave., between 40tli and 41st Sts., E,. from
$ 2, these two near the Grand Central Station; iMPEELiL (PI. z, F 3-, //),
Broadway, cor. 32nd St., a large and handsomely decorated house, R.
from $2; Majestic (PI. p, K2; roof-garden), Eighth Ave., cor. 72nd St.,
facing Central Park, R. from $ 21/2; Eaelington (PI. x, F2, 3-, //), 49 W.
27th St., R. from $11/2; Victoria (PI. c, F 8; //), Fifth Ave., cor. 27th St.,
R. $ 2; Algonquin, W. 44th St., R. with hath from $ 2; Navabee (PI. o,
G25 //}, Seventh Ave., cor. 38th St., R. $11/2; Gebaed (Pl. ge, G3-, II),
W. 44th St., R. from $ IV2, suite from §3; Buckingham (PI. bu, H 3-, //),
a large family hotel, Fifth Ave., cor. 50th St., R. from $ 2; New Weston,
Madison Ave., cor. 49th St., R. with bath from $3; Webstee (PI. we,
G3; //), 40 W. 45th St., R. from $ 2; Seville (PI. s e, F3; //), Madison
Ave., cor. 29th St., E. from $ IV2; Pieerepont, W. 32nd St., near Broad-
way, R. with bath from $ 2V2; Latham, Fifth Ave., near '28th St., R.
from $ IV2; *Peince Geoege (PI. pg, F3; //J, 27th St., between Fifth Ave.
and Madison Ave., suitable for ladies, R. with bath from § 2; Steatfoed
House, HE. 32nd St.; Flandees, 135 W. 45th St., R. with bath from S 21/2;
Roland, 56 E. 59th St., R. from $1, with bath $11/2. The following
hotels are all in Broadway: INew Geand (PI. ng, F 3; //), cor. 31st St.,
R. from § IV2; Maeie Antoinette (PI. ma; I, 2), cor. 66th St.: Belle-
CLAiEK (PI. f ; K, 1), cor. 77th St., R. $2; Heeald Squaee (PI. i, G2;//),
cor. 34th St., R. $ IV2, well spoken of; Woodwaed (PI. w, H 2; II), cor.
55th St., R. $ 2, with bath $ 21/2-3; Cadillac (PI. ca, G 2; //), cor. 43rd St.,
commercial, R. from $ IV2; Cumbeeland (PI. cu, H 2; //), cor. 54th St., R.
with bath from $ 21/2; King Edwaed (PI. ke, H 2; J/), 47th St., R. from
§11/2 i Beeslin (PI. br, F3; //), eor. 29th St., R. from $ IV2; Empiee
(Pl.u; 1,2), cor. 63rd St., R. from $11/25 Maeseille (PI. mr; M, 1), cor.
103rd St., R. from $ IV2; Albany, cor. 41st St., R. from $ 11/2; Maetinique,
cor. 33rd St., good cuisine, R. from $2; I^oemandie (Pl.no, G 2; //),
GiLSET Ho., cor. 29th St. (PI. F, 3 ; //), R. from § 1 ; Maelboeough (PI. y,
G 2; II), cor. 36th St., R. from $ IV2; Sheeman Square, cor. 71st St., R.
from $ IV2. New Flobence, Fourth Ave., cor. 18th St.. R. from § IV2;
CtAEENDON (the hotel at which Thackeray stayed), opposite the last, old-
fashioned but comfortable, R. from S 1; Park Avenue (PI. pa, F3; //),
Fourth Ave., cor. 32nd St.. R. from 3 IV2; Manhattan (PI. e, G 3 : //), Madison
Ave., cor. 42nd St., near Grand Central Station, R. from $2; Grand Union
(PI. gu, G 3; //), 42nd St.. opposite the Grand Central Station, R. from
3 1; Grenoble (PI. d, H 2; //), Seventh Ave., cor. 56th St., R. from § IV2;
St. Andeew, 201 W. 72nd St., cor. of the Boulevard and near the begin-
ning of Riverside Drive (PI. K, 1), R. from $2, well spoken of; Endicott
(PI. en; K,L,2), Ninth Ave., cor. 81st St., R. from S IV2, with bath from $ 21/2
(back-room desirable) ; Wintheop, 2088 Seventh Ave. (Harlem), R. § V-ji. —
Maetha Washington Hotel (PI. mw, F 3; II), 29 E. 23th St., for women
only, R. from $ IV2, v/ith restaurant (open to men), tea-room, and several
shops for ladies' needs (rooms should be ordered in advance).
2. American and European Plan: San Resio (PI. re; K, 2), Eighth Ave.,
cor. 74th St., facing Central Park, from $31/2, R. from 3 1V2-, Beistol,
W. 49th St., between Broadway and Sixth Ave., from 3 3, R. from 3 2.
Most of the hotels take in guests by the week or month at very con-
siderable reductions of their daily rates (comp. p. ssiii); and when two
persons occupy one room the charge is often materially diminished. Many
of the uptown hotels are almost entirely occupied by permanent guests
and are little used by tourigts. Fees to waiters and beU-boys are usual.
Boarding Houses. Good board can be procured in New York from
3 8 a week upwards, varying according to the situation and character of
the house. For $ 15-20 one should obtain good accommodation in the best
neighbourhood (^e.g. near Madison Sq.). Above Washington Square and be-
tween Seventh and Lexington Avenues boarding-houses maybe found in every
block. Many are in E. 21st St., Gramercy Park, Irving Place, and Madison
Ave., while immense numbers can be found on the W. side by a little
search (vacancies indicated by slips of paper near the door-bell) or a
carefully worded advertisement. Good and cheaper boarding-houses may
14 Route 2. NEW YORK. Bestamants.
also be found in Henry St. and the contiguous parts of Brooklyn (p. 74),
near the bridge and ferries. A distinct understanding should be come to
beforehand, and references should be asked for in houses not specially
recommended. Light, heat, service (but not boot-cleaning), and the use
of a bath should be included in the price for board.
Furnished Rooms may be obtained in convenient quarters from $ 4 or
$ 5 per vreek upwards, and breakfast is sometimes provided in the same
house. But the English custom of living in lodgings, ordering one's oven
meals, and having them cooked and served by the landlady is practically
unknown in '^ew York.
Restaurants. The distinction made below between d la carte and
table-d'hdte restaurants is not necessarily mutually exclusive, but indicates
the general custom at the different houses. At all the high-priced cl la
carte restaurants one portion (except of oysters or desert) is generally
enough for two persons, and two portions are abundant for three. Some
of the iabie-d'hdte dinners are good for the prices charged, but the a la
carte restaurants are usually dear for a person dining alone. The following
list divides the restaurants into two groups, above and below 14th St.
It is customary to give a fee to the waiter, varying from 5 c or 10 c. in the
cheaper restaurants to 25 c. or more in the best. Wine (generally poor
and dear, except at the foreign restaurants) and beer (5-10 c. per glass,
10-20 c. per pint) naay be usually obtained, but are by no means so uni-
versally ordered as in Europe. Ladies without escort are not admitted
to the best restaurants in the evening.
Up Town Restaukants (above 14th St.). 1. A la carte. *Deltnonico''s
(PI. G, 3 ; //), N.E. cor. Fifth Ave. and 44th St. (formerly in Madison Sq.),
a famous house, with high charges; public and private rooms, caf^, ball
rooms, etc.; crowded about 7-8 p.m. and after the theatres. '^ Sherry^ s
(PI. G, 3 ; 7/), a similar establishment at the S.W. cor. of the same streets,
with a very fashionable patronage. Restaurants at the * Waldorf -Astoria
(fine roof- garden restaurant open in summer), ''Holland Ho., ^St. Regis.,
*Hotel Astor (orangery, roof-garden, Indian grill-room ; prices reasonable),
New Flaza, Neiherland, Savoy ^ Majestic^ Manhattan^ HoffraanHo. (roof-garden),
Albemarle., Pari Avenue (court-garden), Gilsey Ho., Grand Union (Flemish
Room), Breslin, Imperial, Ashland (good plain cooking), and other hotels
on the European plan, see above; *Hofbrdu7iaus, Broadway & 30th St.
(quaintly fitted up in the old-German style); Manhattan Square Hotel, 77th
St., close to Museum of Nat. History (p. 5b); Dorlon, 6 E. 23rd St. (Madison
Sq.), famous for oysters and fish; Shanley, Broadway, between 29th & 30th
Sts. ; Burns, 785 Sixth Ave. and 102 W. 45th St. ; O^Neill, 358 Sixth Avenue,
cor. 22nd St., less fashionable and expensive; Mouquin, 454 Sixth Avenue,
frequented by artists, authors, etc. ; Cafd des Beaux-Arts, 80 W. 40th St. ;
Jack''s, 761 Sixth Ave. (above 43rd St.; good American cookery), and Columbus
Ave., cor. 74th St. (noted for shellfish and game); Pahst, Eighth Ave., cor.
58th St., frequented after theatre, first-class prices; Rector'' s, 1510 Broad-
way, aJso a supper-resort; Goerwiiz., Third Ave., cor. 19th St., a quaint
German beer-saloon; ''Hallorans, 213 Sixth Ave , moderate; Browne's Chop
House, 1424 Broadway, between 39th and 40th Sts. (good cuisine and
interesting drnmatic pictures; men only); EngeVs Chop House, 61 W. 36th St.;
Keen'^s Chop House, 70 W. 36th St. (men); CavanagWs Oyster & Chop House,
258 W. 23rd St.; Claremont Hotel (PI. 0, 1), near Grant's Monument, see
p. 68; Terrace Garden, E. 59th St., near Lexington Ave.; "Childs"' Dairy
Restaurants, all over town, moderate prices; '^Bennett's tuncheon Rooms,
moderate. — 2. Table-d'hote Restaurants (D. usually from 5 or 6 to 8 or 9).
Flouret (H6t. de Logerot), 123 Fifth Ave., cor. 18th St., well spoken of,
D. 11/4, with wine $ IV2; Cafd- Martin (PI. F, 3; //), Fifth Ave., cor. 26th
St., D. $ 11/4 ($ IV2 on Sat., Sun., & holidays); -Martinique, Broadway &
33rd St. (B.60c.,D. $ IV2); "Cafi des Ambassadeurs, 108W. 38thSt., D. $11/4;
Murray Hill Hotel Restaurant (see pp. 12, 13), D. 75 c. (dearer in dining-room
of hotel); The Chelsea (p. 12), D. $ 1; Park Avenue Hotel (p. 13), D. 75c.;
Cafi Francis, 57 W. 36th St., D. $1; Cafd delaPaix, 39 W. 31st St., D.
$11/4; Purssell, 910 Broadway, D. $ 1; Westminster Hotel (p. 12), L. 50 c.,
City Railroads. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 15
D. $ I5 Roversi Motel, 29 W. 27th St., L. 30 c., D. witli wine 60 c; -Gazzo,
Metropolitan Opera House building, D. $ 1 (if no drinks are ordered, $ IVO*
Down Town Restaukants. 1. A la carte. -'Cafi Savarin, in the Equi-
table Building (p. 36j, 120 Broadway, finely fitted up, high charges; ""Lafa-
yette-Brevoort House, see p. 12; '^Fleischmanris, Broadway, cor. 11th St.;
Eyrie Restaurant, on the 2ord story of the Tract Society Building, 150 Nassau
St. (p. 3 9); Oarret Restaurant, on the 23rd story of the West Street Building
(comp. p. 3; fine views from these two) ; *Haan, Park Row Building (p. 38);
Luchow (German), 108 E. 14th St. ; Little Hungary, QSl E. Houston St.
(Hungarian wines) ; Belmonico, 2 S. William yt. ; *Astor House (p. 12),
a much - frequented restaurant (2000-2500 luncheons served daily), with
luncheon-counters, etc. ; *Mouquin, 20 Ann St. ; Smith & McNeil, 197 Wash-
ington St., moderate; Dewey., 138 Fulton St, (American wines); Childs''
and Dennett's Restaurants, see p. 14; "Farrish''s Chop House (Hickey), 64 John
St. ; Gonfarone, cor, of 8th & McDougall Sts. — 2. Tables-d'hote. "Lafayeite-
Brevoort House, see p. 12, D, $ H/4; Fraunces Tavern (p. 34), cor, of Broad
& Pearl Sts., D. §1; '■'St. Denis Hotel {Taylor'' s Restaurant; native wines),
see p. 12 (B, 50 c., D. $1V4); Caf4 Boulevard. Second Ave., cor. 10th St.,
with Hungarian orchestra, D. 60c., on Sat. & Sun. 75 c, wine extra; Broad-
way Central Hotel (p. 12), D, on Sun. (5.30-8) 75 c.
Among the places frequented by ladies may be mentioned PursseWs,
the St. Denis Hotel, and the Lafayette- Br evo or t House, see above; Childs'' and
Dennetts Luncheon Rooms; The Ferv.ery ^ 14 W. 33rd St., opposite the
Waldorf-Astoria, well spoken of; Colonia, 20 W. 33rd St.; Gift Shop Tea
Rooms, in the building of the Women's Municipal League (p. 24); the
restaurants at Macy's (p. 44) and other large department stores ; the Women''s
Exchange, 334 Madison Ave.
Oyster Saloons (comp. p. xxiv). *Dorlon, 6 E. 23rd St, (Uladison Sq.);
CNeill, see p. 14; Silsbee. Sixth Ave,, near 14th St.; Libby, 143 Fulton St.;
also at nearly all other restaurants and at the Markets.
The Hotel Bars are a characteristic American feature, which may be
studied to perfection in New York. Good bars at most of the leading ho-
tels; Stewarfs, 8 Warren St., with good pictures (shown to ladies, 8-11 a.m.).
Confectioners. Maillard, 1097 Broadway ; Huyler, 150 and 863 Broad-
way, 508 Fifth Ave., and 21 W. 42nd St., also famous for 'ice cream
soda' and other refreshing summer-drinks; Brummell, 831 & 1288 Broad-
way, 28 E. 23rd St., etc. ; Repetti, Broadway, cor. of 42nd St., and 451 Fifth
Ave.; PursseWs, see p. 14; Macy, 34th St., in Herald Square; Allegretti,
927 Broadway. — Soda-water flavoured with syrups of various kinds, 'ice-
cream sodas', egg and other 'phosphates', and other non-alcoholic beverages
are very popular and may be procured at all confectioners and drug-
stores (prices from 5 c. upwards). The 'Soda Fountain' at the drug-store
is, indeed, a prominent American institution.
c. City Railroads. Tramways. Post Office, etc.
Elevated Railroads (all lines leased to Interborough Rapid Transit Co.,
13-21 Park Row), A large portion of the passenger traffic in New York
is carried on by the four Elevated Railroads, which now carry fully
250 million passengers annually. All are now operated by electricity.
There are two lines on the E. side of the city (Second and Third Avenues),
and two on the W. (Sixth and Ninth Avenues). The most frequented is
the Third Avenue line, next to which comes the Sixth Avenue ; but all
are disagreeably crowded at business-hours (first and last cars often less
so than those in the middle). Apart from this, the 'L', as it is popularly
called , affords a very pleasant mode of conveyance. The track may be
described as a continuous viaduct or bridge, supported on iron columns.
The general height is about on a level with the first-floor windows of the
houses, but at places it is much higher than this, the Ninth Avenue line
attaining an elevation of 65 ft. at 110th St,, where it forms a bold curve
in passing from Ninth to Eighth Avenue. The stations occur about every
five blocks in the lower quarters, and are nowhere more than V? M-
16 Route 2. NEW YORK. City Railroads.
apart. Passengers ascend from the street by the staircases to the right
(looking in the direction in which they wish to travel), buy a ticket at
the ticket-office, and drop it into the 'chopper-box' at the entrance to the
platform. The uniform fare, for any distance, is 6 c. ; children under five,
free. Extra 3-cent tickets are issued for transfer to certain 'surface-lines' ;
these, of course, are not dropped in the chopper-box but are given up to
the conductor on the line to which transfer is made. The trains run at
intervals of a few minutes during the day, and during the business-hours
m.oming and evening follow each other with hardly an intermission.
Express-trains, stopping at a few stations only, run on the Third and
Ninth Avenue lines during the busiest hours (down town in the morning,
up town in the afternoon). The Second Avenue trains cease running at
midnight, but the trains on the other lines run all night, at intervals of
10 minutes. The trains run on all lines on Sunday, at somewhat less
frequent intervals. All four lines start from South Ferry, adjoining the
Barge Office (p. 33). They vary in length from 10 M. to 133/4 M. Short
branches run from the Third Avenue Line to the City Hall, the 34th
St. Ferry (these two also from Second Ave.), and the Grand Central Depot.
Passengers should ascertain whether or not they change cars at the busy
Chatham Sq. station, where the Second and Third Avenue lines connect.
The Sixth Avenue line proper ends at Central Park (5Sth St.), but a branch
diverges to Ninth Avenue at 53rd St., and about three-fourths of the
trains (-Harlem trains'; green signals and lamps) follow this route. The
Ninth Avenue Line ends at the Harlem River (see Plan), where it connects
with the Putnam Division of the iV. Y. C. & H. R. R. R. for High Bridge (p. 70)
and points in Westchester County. The Second and Third Avenue lines
are continued by a line crossing the Harlem River and extending to
Bronx Park. The name of the station is announced by the guard on ar-
rival, and the name of the 'next station' on leaving the station. The
names are always placarded at the stations, of which the following is a list.
2nd Ave. — ' South Ferry, Hanover Sq., Fulton St., Franklin Sq. , Cha-
tham Sq. (change cars for City Hall). Canal St., Grand St., Rivington St.,
1st, 8th, 14th, 19th, 23rd, 34th (change cars for Hunter's Point), 42nd, 50th,
57th, 65th, 72nd, 80th, 86th, 92nd, 99th, 111th, 117th, 121st, 127th, 129th Sts.
Passengers change at 129th St. to Third Ave. line for points to the N.
3rd Ave. — South Ferry, Hanover Sq., Fulton St., Franklin Sq., Cha-
tham Sq. (change cars for City Hall), Canal St., Grand St., Houston St.,
9th, 14th, 18th, 23rd, 28th, 34th (change cars for Hunter's Point), 42nd
(change cars for Grand Central Station), 47th, 53rd, 59th, 67th, 76th, S4t.h,
89th, 99th, iOSth, 116th, 125th, 129th, 133rd, 138th, 143rd, 149th, 156th,
161st, 166th, 169th Sts., Wendover Ave., 174th, 177th, 183rd Sts., Pelham
Avenue, and Bronx Park.
6ih ^we. — South Ferrv, Battery Place, Rector St., Cortlandt St.. Park PI.,
Chambers St., Franklin St., Grand St., Bleecker St., 9th, 14th, ISth, 23rd
(with moving staircase), 28th, 33rd, 42nd, 50th (change cars for 5Sth St. &
Sixth Ave.), 8th Ave. & 53rd, 59th, 66th, 72nd, 81st, 93rd, 104th, 110th, 116th,
125th. 130th, 135th. 140th, 145th, 155th Sts. (stations from 59th to 104th are
on Ninth Ave., 116th to 155th on Eighth Ave.).
9th Ave. —South Ferry, Battery Place, Rector St., Cortlandt St., Barclay
St.. Warren St., Franklin St., Desbrosses St., Houston St., Christopher St.",
14th, 23rd, 30th, 34th, 42nd, 50th, 59th, 66th, 72nd, 81st, 93rd, 104th, 110th,
116th, 125th, 130th, l35th, 140th. 145th, 155th Sts.
Brooklyn Bridge Railway. Trains of six or seven cars, propelled by
electricity or by an endless cable, cross the Brooklyn Bridge (see p. 40)
in 6 min., running at intervals of about 45 seconds. All of them con-
tinue in Brooklyn over the Elevated Railroads to various parts of the
city (fare 5 c). At the New York end the platforms communicate directly
with the City Hall branch of the Third Avenue Elevated. Comp. p. 74. —
Electric Tramways over Brooklyn Bridge, see p. 40.
Rapid Transit Railroad or New York Subway {Interhorough Rapid
Transit Go.., 13-21 Park Row). This underground electric railroad was opened
for traffic in 1904 and has since been extended to Brooklyn. Including
the Brooklyn tunnel (opened in 1908), it is 25 M. in total length, 19V2 M.
Subway. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 17
of this being under ground or under water (12V4 M. shallow subway,
7V4 M. tunnel proper). Within Manhattan it extends from South Ferry
(Battery Park) to (15 M.) Eingsbridge, Spuyten Duyvil Creek, on theW. side
of the city, and to (W/n M.) Bronx Park on the E. side. The Brooklyn
extension begins at the Bowling Green, passes under the East River by
tunnel (two parallel tubes, IV4 M. long), and runs through Brooklyn to
Borough Hall (p. 75) and (3 M.) Atlantic Ave. (farther extensions in progress).
From South Ferry the Manhattan line runs under Broadway to City Hall
Park, bends here to the right (E.; loop to City Hall Station), then runs
to the N. up Lafayette St. and Fourth Ave. to 42nd St., crosses under
42nd St. to the W. side, and continues up Broadway, N.W. and due N.,
to 103rd St. Here it forks, the W. branch continuing almost due N. to
Eingsbridge., while the E. branch follows Lenox Ave. to the N. to 143rd St.
and then runs in a N.E. direction to West Farms and Bronx Park (comp.
General Plan).
At 125th St. the W. Side line crosses Manhattan Valley on a viaduct
to 135th St. and. then again enters a tunneh At 167th and 181st Sts. the
stations are hollowed out of the solid rock, 110 ft. underground, and are
reached by elevators. At Fort George the viaduct again appears, and finishes
the route. The latter part of the E. Side line, from "Westchester Ave. to
Bronx Park, is also elevated.
The Subway is rectangular in section, with concrete bed and steel-
frame construction; it is 13 ft. high, and varies in width from 25 ft. (two
tracks) to 50 ft. (four tracks). The Brooklyn tube-tunnels are 15V2 ft. in
diameter; the lowest point is 94 ft. below mean high water. The cost of
the Manhattan line was nearly $ 50,000,000 (10,000,000?.) ; that of the Brooklyn
extension about $ 10,000,000 more.
The running-time from South Ferry to 96th St. is 21 min. for express
trains, and 31 min. for local trains. Between Bowling Green and Atlantic
Ave., Brooklyn, the running-time is 8 minutes. Uniform fare, 5 c. Below
96th St. the express trains stop only at Bowling Green, Wall St., Fulton
St., Brooklyn Bridge, 14th St., Grand Central, and 72nd St. The throngh
Brooklyn trains (from Bowling Green on) call at express stations only
(marked below with an asterisk). The down-town terminus of the local
trains is at City Hall Park, reached by a loop from Brooklyn Bridge station.
Stations: Atlantic Ave., Nevins St., Hoyt St., Borough Hall (these
four in Brooklyn), *South Ferry, ''Bowling Green, ~Wall St., *Fulton St.,
*Brooklyn Bridge, Citv HaU Park, Worth St. , Canal St., Spring St.,
BleeckerSt., AstorPlace,*14th, 18th, 23rd, 28th, & 33rd Sts., ''iand St. &Park
Ave. (Grand Central Depot), 42nd St. <fe Broadway (Times Sq.), 50th St.,
60th St. (Columbus Circle), 66th,*72nd, 79th, 86th, 91st, and *96th Sts. Beyond
96th St. the E. side and W. side trains diverge from each other. West
Side Stations ('Broadwav Express'): 103rd St., 110th St. (Cathedral Park-
way), 116th St. (Columbia Univ.), Manhattan St., 137t.b, 145th, 157th, 168th. &
181st Sts., Dyckman St., 207th, 215th, 225th, 231st, 23Sth, 242nd Sts. (Bailey
Ave., Kings bridge). East Side Stations ('Lenox Ave. & West Farms
Express'): 110th, 116th, 125th, & 135th Sts. From 135th St. some trains
run merely to a terminal station at 145th St., while others run via 149th St.
& Mott Ave., 149th St. & Third Ave., Jackson Ave., Prospect Ave., Simpson
St., Freeman St., 174th St., and 177th St., to 180th St. (West Farms and
Bronx Park).
RiverTunaels. Besides the above-mentioned Brooklyn Subway, New
York (i.e. Manhattan) is also connected with New Jersey and Long' Island
City by other submarine tunnels. Those completed, or approaching com-
pletion, will be found mentioned at pp. 37, 54, & 78. The only one in
actual use, however, when this Handbook went to press, was the double
tunnel between Morton St. and Hoboken (comp. p. 37). By this route
trains of electric cars run every few minutes from the station at the corner
of Sixth Avenue & 19th Street (PI. E, 2 ; //) to (3 M.) Hoboken, taking 12 min.
to the journey (fare 5 c). The trains also stop in New York &\, Ninth Street
(PI. E, 2), Uth Street (PI. E, 2), and Christopher Street CPl. D, E, 2; hence to
Hoboken 7 nun,). The terminus at Hoboken adjoins the Delaware &
18 Route 2. NEW YOKE. Carriages.
Lackawanna Railway Station (p. 10). The service through the Cortlandt
Street tunnels (p. 37) will be similar.
Tramways. Nearly all the avenues running N. and S. and most of
the important cross-streets are traversed by Tramways (Street Cars, Sur-
face Cars), most of which are now operated by electricity ('underground
trolley system'). A few of the cross-town cars are still drawn by horses.
Uniform ' fare for any distance, 5 c. About 500 million passengers are
carried annually, and overcrowding is nearly as constant, especially on
the Broadway cars, as on the Elevated Railroad. Transfer tickets are
usually furnished without extra charge for the cross-lines. The cars
nominally stop only at the upper crossings going up and at the lower
crossings going down town. All lines run every few minutes, and most
of them run all night. As the exact routes of the cars are subject to
frequent changes, it may be enough here to note that among the most
important lines are the following: Broadway, Third, Fourth, Madison,'
Sixth, and Eighth Avenues; West Side Belt Line (Tenth Ave.), passing
all the N. River ferries ; East Side Belt Line (First Ave.), passing all the
E. River ferries; and the Cross-town lines on 14th, 23rd, 34th, and 42nd Sts.
On the Fourth & Madison Ave. line passengers board the cars at the rear
only and pay as they enter A blue light indicates cars between Brooklyn
Bridge and 135th St., a yellow light those between Canal cr Broome St.
and 116th St., a green light those between Astor Place and 86th St. A
red light signifies that the car is not carrying passengers. — The new Loop
Subway, connecting the Manhattan ends of Brooklyn, Manhattan, and
Williamsburg bridges, will be traversed by electric cars, greatly facilitat-
ing intercourse with Long Island points. — For electric lines to Brooklyn,
see p. 74; to Long Island City, see p. 78; to Jersey City, see p. 37.
Motor Omnibuses ('Stages') run from Washington Sq. through Fifth
Avenue to 89th St. (fare 10 c). Others run to Riverside Drive, via Fifth
Avenue, 57th St., Broadway, and 72nd St, There is also a more or less
regular service on some other routes.
Carriages. Hackney Carriages are in waiting at the railway-stations,
ferries, and principal steamboat -docks, and are also found on stands
at Madison Sq., Union Sq., City Hall Park, and many other points. The
fares are as follows: Hackney Carriages or Coaches, to carry 1-4 pers.,
generally with two horses, $1 for the first mile, and 50 c. for each 1/2 M.
addit.; per hr. $1V2, each addit. ^,2 hr. 75 c., waiting 40 c. per V* hr.
(no charge for stop of less than 5 min.). Cahs and Hansoms for 1-2 pers.,
50 c, 25 c, §1, 50 c, 25 c. One trunk, not exceeding 50 lbs. in weight, free;
extra luggage 25 c. per piece. Children under eight years of age, free.
Carriages hired from hotels or livery-stables are somewhat dearer. The
authorized table of fares should be hung in each carriage. A mile is
estimated as equal to twentv blocks from N. to S. and as six blocks from E.
to W. to the W. of Fifth Ave. and as eight blocks to the E. of it. In
case of dispute the driver should be told to drive to the nearest police-
office or to the City Hall, where a complaint may be made to the Mayor^s
Marshal, Room No. 1. Or the hirer may pay the fare demanded and make
complaint through the Merchants' Association, 346 Broadway. In all cases
a distinct bargain should be made beforehand, and it is often possible to
make one on more favourable terms than the legal fares. — Taximeter
Electric Cabs CTaxicabs) for 1-2 pers., 30 c. for the first V2M., 10 c. for
each extra V* M., waiting 10 c. for each 6 min. ; for 3-5 pers. 30 c. per i/s M.,
10 c. for each Ve M. extra, waiting 10 c. for each 4 min.; trunk 20 c.
Several of the railway companies have organized excellent cab services
for passengers arriving "at their New York stations. Thus the fares of
the Pennsylvania Co.'s cabs from 23rd St., which are prominently displayed
in each vehicle, are as follows: hansom or victoria, for 1-2 pers., IV2 M.
25 c, each addit. mile or fraction 15 c. ; four-wheeler, IV2 M., 1-2 pers.
40 c, 3-4 pers. 50 c, each addit. mile or fraction 20 c. ; small omnibuses,
IV2M., 1-4 pers. $ 1, each addit. pers. 10 c, each addit. mile 25 c. Trunk
25 c, valise carried outside 5 c. — Those of the other companies are
similar.
Post Office. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 19
The Automobiles and Steam Yacht of the so-called 'Seeing New York'
company (office, Fifth Ave. side of Flat-iron Building, p. 43) afford an
excellent method of making a first general acquaintance with the city. The
automobiles start from the Flat-iron Building several times daily (incl. Sun.),
making an Up Town trip (Fifth Avenue, Central Park, Grant's Tomb, River-
side Drive, etc.; 21/2 hrs. ; fare $ 1) and a Down Town trip (places of
historic and other interest in the S. or lower part of the city, including
a visit to the interior of the Stock Exchange; i^/t hr. ; fare $ 1). A car
starting at 8.30 p.m. goes to Chinatown (p. 39), including visits to a Joss
House, theatre, and restaurant (fare $ 2, including all expenses). The
steam-yacht starts twice daily from the Hudson River Day Line Pier at
the foot of W. 22nd St. and circumnavigates the island of Manhattan (3 hrs. ;
fare $ 1). Each party is accompanied by a guide who points out the chief
objects of interest with the aid of a megaphone. — More serious students
of history are advised to take part in the Saturday Afternoon Excursions
of the dtp Bistort/ Club (see p. 28; fee 50 c.), which also furnishes Histor-
ical Guides (fee from $3).
Ferries (see Plan). To Brooklyn., from Catherine St., Fulton St., Wall
St., Whitehall St. (South Ferry), and E. 42nd St. To Williamslurg or
East Brooklyn, from Grand St., Roosevelt St., E. Houston St., E. 23rd St.,
and E. 42nd St. To Greenpoint, from E. 10th St. and E. 23rd St. To Hunter's
Point, Long Island City, from E. 34th St. To Astoria, Long Island City,
from E. 92nd St. (10 c). To Jersey City: from Desbrosses St., from W.
23rd St., and from Cortlandt St. to Pennsylvania Railway Station; from
W. 23rd St. and Liberty St. to Central of New Jersey Railway Station
(Communipaw; fare 8 c.); from Chambers St. and from W. 23rd St. to
Pavonia Avenue and Erie Railroad (comp. also p. 10). To Hdboken, from
Barclay, Christopher, and W. 23rd Sts. To Weehawken (West Shore R.R.),
from W. 42nd St. and Desbrosses St. To Edgewater, for Fort Lee and
Palisade Park, from W. 130tb St. (5 c). To Staten Island, from Whitehall
St. (South Ferry; 5 c). To College Point (Queen's Borough), from E. 99th St.
To BlackwelVs Island from E. 26th, E. 52nd, and E. 70th Sts. (pass re-
quired; no charge). To Ward''s Island from E. 116th St. (pass; no charge).
To RandalVs Island from E. 26th. E. 120th, and E. 12oth Sts. (pass; no
charge). To EarVe Island from E. 26th St. (40 c. and pass). To Liberty
Island (see p. 71), to Governor'' s Island (hourly; pass), and to Ellis Island
(free; p. 71) from the Battery. The 'Brooklyn' or 'Pennsylvania Annex'
is an important ferry connecting BrooMyn (Fulton St., near the Suspen-
sion Bridge) with the Penna. R. R. terminus in New Jersey (fare 10 c).
The ferries ply at frequent intervals, the more important running every
few minutes in the business-hours. Fares generally 1-3 c. The ferry-
boats are comfortable and very unlike European steamers. One side is
devoted to a ladies' cabin, but men may also use this when not smoking.
These ferries carry about 200 million passengers yearly; but the various
new bridges and tunnels (comp. pp. 17, 37, 40, 5i, 78) will probably dimin-
ish this figure.
Post Office (comp. p. xxv). The General Post Office (see p. 37), City
Hall Park, is open day and night. The Money Order Office, on the second
floor. Rooms 40-42, is open daily, except Sun. and holidays, 9-5. The
General Delivery windows (for 'Poste Restante' letters) are on the ground-
floor, Park Row side. The Registered Letter Office is on the mezzanine
floor. Besides the G.P.O. district, the city is divided into about forty
postal districts, each served by a branch post-office or Station, generally
designated by letters of the alphabet (Station A, etc.; open 7-8, Sun.
9-11 a.m ), and there are also about 235 Sub-Stations, in druggists' shops,
where all the ordinary postal services are rendered, including the issue
of domestic or inland money orders. Letters within New York are de-
livered more expeditiously if the 'station letter' is affixed to the address.
Letters are also expedited in delivery if posted on the same side of
Fifth Ave. (E. or W.) as their destination. Stamps are also sold in many
other shops (chiefly druggists') throughout the city; and letters may be
posted in about 3260 Letter Boxes, affixed to lamp-posts, or in any hotel.
20 RouU 2. NEW YORK. Theatres.
From 12 to 32 collections, and from 3 to 9 deliveries are made daily
according to the district. Letters are collected on Sun. (at less frequent
intervals), but, unless they are 'Special Delivery' letters, are not deliv-
ered; mail matter may, however, be obtained on Sun., 9-11 a.m., on the
Mezzanine Floor, G.P.'O., and at the district-offices. The time of closing
of foreign mails is advertised in the daily papers; the chief European
mails are despatched on Tues., Wed., Thurs., and Saturday.
Telegraph Offices (comp. p. xxv). Western Union Telegraph Co.,
195 Broadway; chief branch-offices, 599,854, and 1227 Broadway, 16 Broad
St., 813 Sixth Avenue, Fifth Ave. (cor. 22nd St.), and 249 W. 125th St, All
these are open day and night. There are also about 250 other branch-offices
throughout the city, including all the principal hotels and the Grand
Central Depot, and" Atlantic Cable messages are received at all of them.
The rate for local messages in New York and Brooklyn is 20 c. per 10 words,
and 1 c. for each additional word ; for other parts of the United States
it varies from 25 c. to $1 per 10 words. No charge is made for address or
signature. — Postal Telegraph- Cable Co., 253 Broadway and many branch-
offices ; similar charges. — The rate per word for cable messages to Great
Britain, Ireland, France, Germany, Belgium, and Holland is 25 c. ; Switzer-
land 30 c. ; Italy 31 c. ; Austria- Hungary 32 c. ; Denmark and Norway 35 c. ;
Sweden 38 c.; Russia 43 c; Spain 38-40 c; Portugal 39 c.
Telephone Offices. The telephone service of New York is supplied
by the Jfew York Telephone Co., 15 Dey St. and 18 Cortlandt St., which has
branch- offices at 115 W. 38th, 127 W. 125th, and 366 W. 150th Sts. Public
Pay Stations (indicated by a sign with a blue bell) are found in every
part of the city, generally in hotels, drug-stores, telegraph-stations, ferry-
houses, and so on. The charge for a local call at these stations is 5 c.
(10 c. in most hotels). 'Long Distance' calls may be made to practically
every town within 1000 M. of New York (charges high).
Messenger Service. This is carried on by the American District Tel-
egraph Co. (4 Dey St.) and the Postal Telegraph Co. (253 Broadway), which
have numerous offices throughout New York, generally in the stations of
the telegraph companies. Message boys can be sumna.oned by the 'auto-
matic calls' found in hotels, banks, offices, and many private houses. Fees
by tarifi" (about 30-40 c. per hour).
Express Service. Broadway below Trinity Church is the headquarters
of the numerous express companies of New York, by which baggage may
be expressed to all parts of the world. Among the chief are : Adams Ex-
press Co. (comp. p. 85), American Express Co., Wells, Fargo, tt Co., Broad-
way Nos. 61, 65, & 51; United States Express Co., 2 Rector St. For ex-
pressing baggage within the United States, the traveller will, however,
seldom need to leave his hotel. Among the chief 'Transfer Companies' for
transferring luggage within New York and Brooklyn are Westcott (cor.
of Madison Ave. and 147th St.) and the iTew Fork Transfer Co. (1 Astor
House and 1354 Broadway); 30-50 c. per trunk, according to distance.
Tourist Agents. Raymond & WMtcomb Co., 225Fifth Ave. ; Thos. Cook &
Son, 245 and 1200 Broadway.
d. Theatres. Concerts. Sport. Clubs, etc.
Theatres (usual prices from 50 c. to $ 2). Metropolitan Opera House
(PI. G, 2; //), 1419 Broadway; prices $ 1-5. — Manhattan Opera Hotise (PI. G,
2; II), 34th St., near Eighth Ave. ; prices $ 3/4-5 (Sun. concerts $ V2-1V2)- —
Academy of Music (PI. E,3; IPj, cor. of IrvingPl. and E. 14thSt., now used
for spectacular dramas, etc. — Daly's Theatre (PI. F, 3;//), corner of Broad-
way and 30th St. — Wallaces Theatre (PI. F, 3;//), Broadway, cor. 30th St.,
high-class comedy.— Broadway Theatre (PI. G, 2;//), Broadway, cor. 4l8tSt.,
comedies, light operas, etc. — Lyceum (PI. H, 2 ; 77), W. 45th St., comedy. —
Lyric Theatre (V\. G,2;77), W.42ndSt. — NeiD Amsterdam Theatre {^\.G,'i:>II\
W. 42nd St., with elaborate plastic and painted decorations. — Stuyvesant,
115 W. 44th St., near Broadway (PI. G, 2 ; 77). — ^«far(Pl. H, 2 ; 77), W. 45th St. ,
cor. Broadway. — Berkeley, Fifth Ave., cor. 44th St. (P1.G,3; 77). — Hachett
Music Halls. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 21
U
(PI. G, 2 ; //), W. 42nd St., near Eightli Ave. — Madison Square Theatre (comp.
p. 53). — Empire TJieatre (PI. G, 2 ; //), Broadway, cor. 40th St. — Herald
Square Theatre (PI. G, 25//), Broadway, cor. 35tli St. — Garden Theatre (PI.
F, 3;//), Madison Ave., cor. of 27t]i St. (see p. 53), comedy. — Knickerbocker
Theatre (PI. G, 2 ; //), cor. of Broadway and 38t St. — Garrick Theatre (PI.
G, 3; //), W. 35th St., to the E. of Sixth Ave. — Bijou Theatre (PL F, 3; //),
Broadway, between 30th and 31st Sts. — Hudson Theatre (PL G, 2;//), W.
44th St.; § V4-2- — Liherty Theatre (PL G, 2 ; //), 42nd St., to the W. of Seventh
Ave. — Majestic (PL I, 2; //), Broadway, cor. of 59th St. — New German
Theatre (PL I, 3; //), Madison Ave.; 35 c, to $2 (less on Sun.). — Belasco
Theatre (PL G, 2; //), W. 42nd St., near Broadway. — Criterion (PL G,
2; //), Broadway, cor. of 44th St. — Savoy (PL G, 2; 77), 112 W. 34th St.
— Victoria (PL G, 2;77), Seventh Ave., cor. of 42nd St.; S V2-I. —Murray
Hill Theatre (PL G, 3; 77), Lexington Ave., cor. of 42nd St.; $ V4-1V2- —
Gj'and Opera House (PL F, 2 ; 77), Eighth Ave., cor. 23rd St., a large house
(2200 seats); $ Va-l- —Fourteenth St. Theatre (PL E, 2; 77), near Sixth Ave.;
opular pieces; S Vi-iVs- —New York Theatre (PL G, 2; 77), Broadway, cor.
"th St., with roof-garden; $ i/4-l- — Casino (PL G, 2; 77), Broadway, cor.
39th St., operettas; in summer, concerts on the roof, see below. — German
Theatre {Amberg's; PL E 3, 77), cor. of Irving Place and E. 15th St.; per-
formances in German; 35 c. to $ 2. — Thalia (PL C, 4; 7), 48 Bowery;
formerly, as the 'Bowery Theatre', the leading theatre of New York, but
now relinquished to 'down town' performances in Yiddish; $ 1/4-I. —
Third Avenue Theatre (PL F, 3; 77), between 30th and 31st Sts. ; melodrama
and popular pieces; 15-75 c. — American Theatre (PL G, 2;J7), Eighth Ave.,
cor. 42nd St., with roof-garden; cheap but sood opera, plays, etc. ; $ V4-1- —
West End Theatre^ 368 W. 125th St., near Eighth Ave. (PL 0, 2); $1/4-1. —
New Circle Theatre^ Broadwav, cor. 60th St. (PL I, 2), $ V4-1 5 Lincoln Square
Theatre (PL I, 2), Broadwav,' cor. 65th St., $ V4-I; Gaiety (PL H, 2; 77), W.
46th St. The New Theatre (PL I, 2), Central Park West, cor. W. 62nd St., is an
endowed theatre to be 'maintained for the advancement of art, and not for com-
mercial gain'. — Vaeiett Theatres: Keith & Proctor s Theatres in 14th St.,
near Broadway {Union Square; PL E 3,77; 25c. to $1), in Broadway,
cor. 28th St. {Fifth Avenue Theatre; PL F, 3; from 25 c), in 23rd St., near
Sixth Ave. (PL F 2, 77; from 10 c), in Seventh Ave., cor. 125th St. {Harlem
Opera House; from 15 c.), in 5Sth St., cor. Third Ave. (PL H, 3,4-, from
10 c.), and in 125th St., near Lexington Ave. (from 10 c); Tony Pastor'' s.,
in Tammany Hall Building (p. 43), from 20 c; Colonial Theatre^ Broadway,
cor. 62nd St., S V4-IV2; Alhambra, Seventh Ave., cor. 126th St., §1/4-1;
Hammerstein' s (Victoria)^ Broadway, Seventh Ave., & 42nd St., $ '^ji-i. —
The performances at the New York theatres, unless otherwise stated in
the advertisements, begin at 8 or 8.15 p.m.; 'matinee' performances at 2,
2.15, or 2.30 p.m. on Saturday. Tickets may be bought in advance at
Rullman's (111 Broadway), at Tyson's (1122 Broadway), and at the chief
hotels (small premium charged), but this is not often necessary. Full
dress is nowhere compulsory, but is customary at the Opera and the most
fashionable theatres. Ladies often wear street-dress, even when accompanied
by gentlemen in evening dress, but are generally expected to doff their hats.
Music Halls and other Places of Amusement. Madison Square Garden
(p. 53) , a huge block bounded by Madison and Fourth Avenues and 26th
and 2(th Sta., containing an amphitheatre, accommodating 15,000 people
and used for horse-shows, flower-shows, equestrian performances, and
the like; a theatre (see above) ; a large concert and ball room (1500 people) ;
a restaurant; and an open-air garden on the roof (4000 people). *View
of New York, by day or night, from the Tower (300 ft. high; elevator;
adm. 25c.; o-^en.iQ-&). — Hippodrome (Pl.G, 3;77),ahugebuilding (5600seats)
in Sixth Ave., between 43rd <fe 44th Sts., for spectacular and equestrian
performances (at2(fe8p.m.); prices $ V4-2V2- — Eden Musie (PL F, 3; 77),
23rd St., between Fifth and Sixth Avenues; a wax-work show, with good
musical performances, cinematograph, winter-garden, smoking-room, etc.,
open 11-11, Sun. 1-11; adm. 50 c., on Sun. 25 c. — Weber Music Hall (PL
F, 3; 77), Broadway, cor. 29th St.; from 50 c. up. — Casino Garden, on the
top of the Casino Theatre (see above), a beer-garden, with musical perfor-
22 Route 2. ^ NEW YORK. Concerts.
mances (in summer) : aiim. free to visitors of the theatre. — The so-called
'■JDimeMugeums'' can scarcely be recommended, and visitors should also steer
clear of most of the '■Concert Saloons'.
Concerts. New York cultivates high- class music with distinguished
success and enjoys a series of concerts ranking with the best in Europe.
No fewer than seven series of admirable subscription Symphony Concerts
are given in Carnegie Music Hall (p. 54). Those of the Philharmonic Society
(founded 1842) are given every 2nd or 3rd Saturday during the season
(Nov.-April) at 8.15 p.m. (conductor, "Wassily Safonoff); public rehearsals
on the Fridays before the concert at 2 p.m. The New York Symphony Con-
certs are conducted by W. Damrosch, the Russian Symphony Concerts by
Altschuler, the People's Symphony Concerts by Arens, the Young People's
Symphony Concerts by F. Damrosch, the Volpe Symphony Concerts by Volpe,
and the Boston Symphony Concerts by Max Fiedler. Other fashionable sub-
scription concerts are given in the rooms of iheWaldorf -Astoria Hotel (p. 12).
Excellent concerts are also given by the Oratorio Society (the largest ctioral
society in the city), the People's Choral Union, the Arion Society (in the
club-house in Park Avenue, p. 52), the Liederkranz (113 E. 58th St., between
Park and Lexington Avenues), the Beethoven Mdnnerchor, the Sangerbund,
the Mendelssohn Glee Club (119 W. 40th St.), the Musical Art Society (about
twice yearly), etc. The above concerts are mainly attended by members
and subscribers, but a limited number of single tickets is obtainable in
some cases. The Mendelssohn Hall., 119 W. 40th St., is used mainly for
recitals. Good Sun. evening or afternoon concerts are given at the Man-
hattan and Metropolitan Opera Houses (p. 20), at the Hippodrome (p. 21), and
at the German Theatres (p. 21). In summer bands play at frequent inter-
vals in Central Park (Sat. & Sun. afternoons), the Battery.^ Tompkins Square.,
etc. — For details, see the daily newspapers.
Exhibitions of Paintings. Metropolitan Museum.^ see p. 58; Lenox
Library., see p. 50; New York Historical Society, see p. 54; Annual Ex-
hibitions of the National Academy of Design (p. 55) in spring and winter
at the Galleries of the American Fine Arts Society, 215 W. 57fh St.,
between Seventh Ave. and Broadway; American Water Colour Society,
usually at the same galleries in May; New York Water Colour Club, a the
Fine Arts Society Galleries (Dec); Architectural League, in the same gal-
leries (Feb.); National Society of Craftsmen, 119 E. 19th St. (permanent
exhibition of products of the Arts and Crafts); Ten American Painters, at
the Montross Gallery, N.W. cor. of Fifth Ave. & 35th St. (April). Loan
exhibitions are given in the season by the Lotos, Union League, Century,
and Salmagundi Clubs (the last club largely composed of professional
artists). During the season (Nov.-May) so-called 'One Man Shows' (exhi-
bitions of individual artists) are held at Knoedler's (7 E. 35th St.), Durand-
Ruel's (5 W. 36th St.), Tooth's, Montross's, Macbeth's (these three in Fifth
Ave.), and other prominent art dealers'. Other exhibitions at irregular
intervals are given by the National Sculpture Society, the National Arts Club
(p. 24), etc. Adm. to the annual exhibitions 25-50 c, to the clubs by
card, to the dealers' galleries free. — Among the finest private collections
are those of Mrs. Wm. Asior (modern French, American, and German pic-
tures), Mr. Wm. Rockefeller (old Dutch and English and modern French
pictures), Mr. J. P. Morgan (examples of Roger van der Weyden, Ghir-
landajo, etc.), the late Mr. H. 0. Havemeyer (nine important portraits by
Rembrandt, fine examples of F. Hals, P. de Hooch, etc.), the late Mr.
C. T. Yerkes (p. 50; three historical pieces by Rembrandt; good examples
of Hobbema, Jan Steen, A. van Ostade, G. Don, Terburg, Metsu, F. Hals;
fine oriental rugs), Mr. Emerson McMillin, Mr. George A. Hearn, Mr. B.
.4/toiara (examples of Rembrandt), Ex-Senator W. A. Clark. Mr. H. C. Frick,
Mr. H. C. Terrel, and Mr. C. M- Schwab. Visitors specially interested will
sometimes be admitted to these on previous application by letter, enclosing
card. Visitors are also received at the Studios of the leading artists, many
of whom have their regular reception days.
Sport. The chief Hokse Races near New York are those of the
Westchester Racing Association at Belmont Park; the Brooklyn Jockey Club
Sport. NEW YORK. 2. Boute. 23
at Gravesend, between Brooklyn and Coney Island; tlie Brighton Beach
Racing Association at Brighton Beach', the Empire City Racing Association
at Yonkers; the Coney Island Jockey Club at Sheepshead Bay; the Queens
County Jockey Clvb at Aqueduct ^L, I.); and the Metropolitan Jockey Club
at Jamaica. The schedule is so arranged that there is racing at one or
other of these tracks every week day from April 15th to Nov. 15th (see
daily papers). Adm. to grand-stand $ 'i; to field 50 -75 c. — Steeplechasing
is carried on under the auspices of the National Steeplechase & Hunt Asso-
ciation and the United Hunts Association. — Fox Hunting (with a 'drag'
or carted fox) is carried on in Long Island and New Jersey. — The
chief Yacht Clubs are the New York (PI, G 3, //; 2300 members), Seawanhaka
(1000 members), Atlantic, Larchmont, etc.; numerous regattas are held in
the harbour and Long Island Sound, and an annual cruise, with racing, is
made to Newport. — Rowing is best on the Harlem River, where boats
may be hired for about 50 c. an hour. There are many clubs here
(regatta in summer), and a few on the Hudson and on the Brooklyn and
Staten Island shores of the harbour. — Canoeing is practised all round
Manhattan Island. The New York and the Brooklyn Canoe Clubs have their
headquarters at Gravesend. — Driving. The fashionable drives are through
Central Park and along Riverside Drive, where many handsome equipages
may be seen on fine afternoons. The chief resorts of the owners of 'fast
trotters' are Seventh and St. Nicholas Avenues, to the N. of Central Park,
and the 'Speedway' (p. 69), skirting the Harlem River to the N. of 155th St.,
which is reserved exclusively for fast driving. All who are interested in
horses should try to see the scene here. Coaching parties and public
coaches (seats usually $ 5) leave the Waldorf-Astoria and the Holland House
daily in April, May, and June for points reached via N. New York and
Westchester County (comp. p. 73). — Riding is best seen and enjoyed in
Central and Riverside Parks. The Riding Club has a club-house and ring
in 58th St., between Fifth and Madison Aves. — Motoring is very popular
in New York, the chief organizations in connection with it being the Auto-
mobile Club of America (54th St., W. of Broadway) and the American Auto-
mobile Association (437 Fifth Ave.). — Cycling as a sport has practically
died out in New York, and no races are now held here. — Fishing, for
striped bass, blue fish, weak fish, etc., is practised at various points
near New York on the coasts of Long Island and New Jersey. Steamers
specially built for deep-sea fishing leave New York every morning in the
season and lie out at sea all day (see daily papers). — Baseball is played
from April to October. The chief professional contests take place in the
grounds of the National League at Eighth Ave. and 157th St., at the end of
the Ninth Ave. El. R. R.. and those of the American League in Broadway,
between 165th and 168th Sts. The Brooklyn National League Nine plays at
grounds between 1st and 3rd Sts. See daily papers. — Cricket. The
chief clubs are the Livingston Field., at Livingston (p. 72); the Manhattan^
at Prospect Park; the Paterson, at Paterson (p. 140); and the Brooklyn,
at Prospect Park. — Lawn Tennis. Among the chief clubs are the New
York, at Washington Heights, the West Side, at Morningside Heights, and
the King''s County, at Kingston and St. Mark's Avenues, Brooklyn. Tennis
courts are attached to the various athletic clubs, and there are hundreds
of courts in Central Park. From May to Oct. strangers may play in the
Tennis Building, W. 41st St., near Seventh Ave. Indoor tennis is also
played in the Seventh Regiment Armoury (p. 52). — Racquet & Tennis Club
(PI. G, 3; //), 27 W. 43rd St., between Fifth and Sixth Aves. — Skating is
practised on the lakes in Central Park, Van Cortlandt Park (p. 70), and
Prospect Park, at the St. Nicholas Skating Rink, 69 W. 66th St., near Co-
lumbus Ave. (best), and at the Ice Skating Palace (public), cor. of Lexing-
ton Ave. and E. 107th St. — Athletics. Neio York Athletic Club (PI. I, 3;//),
at the corner of Sixth Ave. and 59th St., with grounds and country club-
house on Travers Island, Long Island Sound; New York Turn-Verein
(German gymnastic society), Lexington Ave., cor. of 86th St. ; Columbia
University, see p. 66; St. George, 207 E. 16th St.; St. Bartholomew, 209 B.
42nd St. ; Young Men's Christian Association, with grounds at Mott Haven
and several gymnasia (chief club-house at 215 W. 23rd St., p. 44). The
Baedeker's United States. 4th Edit. 2
24 Routes. NEW YORK. Clubs.
Amateur Athletic Union has its office at 21 Warren St. — Football. There
are now practically no football games in New York which attract those
not immediately interested. Columbia University has for the present
ceased to play intercollegiate matches, and the game has been given up
by the athletic clubs. — Golf. Among the chief golf-clubs within easy
reach of New York are the St. Andrew's, at Chauncey, near Yonkers
(p. 86) ; the Ardsley, at Ardsley (see p. S6) ; the Morris County, at Morris-
town, N. J.; the Dyker Meadow, near Fort Hamilton; the Knollwood, near
Elmsford; the Englewood, Englewood, N. J. (p. 73); the Baltusrol, near
Short Hills, N. J.; the Shinnecock Hills (p. 81); the Tuxedo (p. 142); the
Oakland, Bayside, L. I. ; the Crescent Athletic Club, Brooklyn (p. 75) ; and
the Maj'ine & Field, Bath Beach. There are public links in Pelham Bay,
Van Cortlandt, Sunset, and Forest Parks. The secretary of the TJ. S. Golf
Association is W/n. Feilowes Morgan, Arch 5, Brooklyn Bridge. — Shooting.
The famous rifle-ranges at Creedmoor, Long Island, 13V2 M. from the
City Hall, now belong to the New York State militia. There are several
gun clubs for 'trap' and pigeon shooting in New Jersey. — Polo is played
mainly at the country clubs (see below).
Clubs. The chief clubs, to which strangers can obtain access only when
introduced by a member, are the following: Manhattan Club (PI. F, 3; //),
at the corner of E. 26th St. and Madison Square, see p. 44; Union League
(PI. G, 3; 77), Fifth Ave., cor. 39th St., see p. 47 (1880 members); Union (PI.
H, 3;77), IE. 51st St., cor. Fifth Ave. (1500 members; social); University (PL
H,3;77), Fifth Ave., cor. 54th St., for college graduates (3000 members);
Century (p. 48), 7 W. 43rd St. (literary and artistic; celebrated meetings
on the first Sat. of each month); Metropolitan (PI. I, 3), Fifth Ave., cor.
60th St. (the 'Millionnaires' Club'); 7,o<05 (P1.H,2; 77), W. 57th St. ; Knicker-
bocker, Fifth Ave., cor. 32nd St. (4o0 members ; sporting and fashionable) ;
Reform, 233 Fifth Ave. (for those interested in political reforms; 1000
members) ; CUyClub (PI. G,3 ;77), 55 W. 44th St. (for those interested in muni-
cipal reform); Merchants' Club, 108 Leonard St.; New York (p. 47). 20 W.
40th St.; St. Nicholas Club (PI. G, 3; 77), 7W. 44th St. (650 members; con-
fined to descendants of old New York families); Republican (PI. G, 3;77),
54 W. 40th St. (political): Democratic i^l.B.,^; IT), 617 Fifth Ave. (political);
Authors' Club, 883 Seventh Ave. (Carnegie Hall No. 609) ; Press Club, 120 Nassau
St.; The Players (PI. E, 3; 77), 16 Gramercy Park, with interesting pictures
and relics and the rooms once occupied by Edwin Booth (1833-93), main-
tained as they were left at his death ; Bar Association (PI. G. 3 ; 77), 42 W.
44th St.; Lawyers' Club, 120 Broadway; Engineers Club, 32 W. 40th St.,
opposite the Public Library, Transportation Club, in the Manhattan Hotel
(p. 13); Machinery Club, Fulton Building (p. 37): Railroad Club, Cortlandt
Building (p. 37); Orolier Club, 29 E. 32nd St.; Calumet Club, 267 Fifth
Ave.; German Club (Deutscher Verein; p. 50), 112 Central Park South;
Progress Club, Central Park West, cor. 88th St. (Hebrew); Harmonie, 10 E.
60th St. (Hebrew); Arion (p. 52), Park Ave., cor. 59th St. (German and
musical); FreundscJmft {-p. 52), Park Ave., cor. 72nd St. (German); Alliance
Fran^aise, 402 Broadway; Aldine Association, Fifth Ave. , cor. 18th St. (Con-
stable Building) ; Downtown Association, 60 Pine St. (these two lunching clubs) ;
Harvard (PI. G, 3; 77), 27 W. 44th St.; Yale (PI. G, 3; 77), 30 W. 44th St.;
Columbia University Club, 18 Gramercy Park; Princeton Club (PL F, 3; 77),
Lexington Ave., cor. 21st St.; Univei^s'ity of Pennsylvania Club, 44 W. 44 th St. ;
National Arts Club (PL E, 3 ; 77), 14 Gramercy Park ; Lambs Club (PL G, 2 ; 77),
128 W. 44th St. ; Catholic, 120 Central Park Sout\i ; Armv db Navzf (PL G,2; 77),
107 W. 43rd St. ; The Friars, a club of press agents, 102 W. 44th St. (S.W.
cor. of Sixth Ave.); Barnard Club, 883 Seventh Ave. (for men and women);
Sorosis, a women's club, meeting monthly at the Waldorf-Astoria ; Colony
Club, for women. 122 Madison Ave., cor. 30th St. : Woiiien's Pen & Brush Club,
22 W. 24th St.; Women's University Club, 17 E. 26th St. (receptions on Sat.);
Women's Municipal League, 19 E. 26th St., notable for its share in recent
municipal reform. — Among the chief Country Clubs near New York are the
Meadowbrook, Hempstead, L. I. (p. 80); Rockaway, Rockaway, L.I. (p. SO);
Westchester, at Westchester; and Richmond, Staten Island (p. 72).
Booksellers. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 25
e. Shops. Baths. Libraries. Churches. Streets. Collections, etc.
Shops ('■Stores''). Many of the New York shops are very large and
handsome, but their prices are, as a rule, considerably higher than those
of Europe. The chief shopping resorts are Broadway, from 8th to 34th St. ;
Fifth Ave., from 14th to £2nd St.; Twenty-Third St., between Fifth and
Sixth Aves. 5 Fourteenth St., between Broadway and Sixth Ave. 5 and Sixth
Avenue, from 12th to 23rd St. (the last two localities somewhat cheaper
than the others). An evening visit to Grand St., E. of the Bowery (p. 39),
will show the shopping of the tenement- districts in full swing. A character-
istic feature is formed by the large 'Dry Goods' stores, huge establishments
in the style of the Bon Marche in Paris, containing almost everything
necessary for a complete outfit. Among these may be mentioned Arnold^
Constable., d' Co., 881 Broadway, cor. 19th St. ; Lord & Taylor, 90i Broadway;
Altman (PI. G, 3; //), Fifth Ave., cor. 34th St.; John Wanamaker, Broadway,
Fourth Ave., 8th St., and 10th St.; Macy, cor. of 34th St. and Broadway
(p. 44); Stern Brothers, 32 W. 23rd St.; McCreery, 23id St., cor. 6th Ave.,
and in 34th St.; Daniell, 61 Broadway; Adams & CNeill, cor. of Sixth Ave.
and 21st St.; Siegel-Cooper Co., 296 Sixth Ave.; Le Bouiillier Brothers, W.
23rd St.; Simpson-Crawford Co., Sixth Ave., from 19th to 20th St.
Booksellers. Charles Scribner''s Sons, 155 Fifth Ave., with an extensive
collection of all kinds of books, fine bindings, rarities, etc. ; G. P. Putnani's
Sons, 27 W. 23rd St.; Dodd , Mead, & Co., 372 Fifth Ave.; E. F. Button
& Co., 31 W. 23rd St.; Brentano, Fifth Ave., cor. 2Tth St., the largest
book-shop in the world; Fleming E. RevellCo., 156 Fifth Ave. ; E. S. Gor-
ham, 285 Fourth Ave.; Wm. R. JenUn Co., 851 Sixth Ave. (esp. for foreign
books); Lemcke & Buechner, 812 Broadway (German books); Dyrsen & Pfeiffer
(late Christern), 16 W. 33rd St. (French and other foreign books); Stechert,
9 E. 16th St. (German); Sieiger, 25 Park Place (German) ; Spanish-American
Book Co., 22 E. 22nd St. — Second-hand Booksellers: Amman & Mackel
(late Leggatt), 81 Chambers St. ; Harper, 14 W. 22nd St. ; Smith, 29 Wall St. 5
Clark, 174 Fulton St.; Mendoza, 17 Ann St.; Richmond, 326 Fifth Ave.;
Wright, 6 E, 42nd St.; Bonaventure, 6 W. 33rd St.
Bankers. Brown Brothers & Co., 59Wall St.; J.P.Morgand:Co.,1^W&\\S>\,.'.,
J. Kennedy Tod & Co., 45 Wall St. ; Enauth, Nachod, & Eiihne, 52 William St. 5
hazard Frhres 10 Wall St. ; /. & W. Seligman d- Co., 1 S. William St. ; A. Bel-
mont d; Co., 23 Nassau St.; Bank of Montreal, 31 Pine St.; Bank of British
North America, 52 Wall St.; Ladeiihurg, Thalmann, d Co., 25 Broad St.;
Heidelbach, Ickelheimer, & Co., 49 Wall St. ; John Munro & Co., 80 Pine St.
Baths. Hot and cold baths may be obtained at all the hotels (25-75 c.)
and large barbers' shops (25 c.). Turkish and Eussian baths ($ Vz-iVs)
may be obtained at the following: Hoffman House (p. 43); Lafayette Baths,
403 Lafayette St. ; Everard, 26 W. 28th St. ; Produce Exchange, 8 Broadway;
Woman's Club, 9 E. 46th St.; Easton, 99 Nassau St.; Mayer,' idil Madison
Ave. ; Riverside Baths, 259 W. 69th St. — Salt Water Swimming Baths, at the
Battery (25 c, warm 30 c). There are also several Free Public Baths, both
on the Hudson and the East River, visited annually by 5-6 million bathers
(June-Sept.). The People's Baths, 9 Centre Market Place, are also free
(separate rooms 5 c).
Libraries and Eeading Rooms. Greater New York contains about
350 more or less public libraries. New Fork Public Library (Astor, Lenox,
& Tilden Foundations), see p. 47; Astor Library, see p. 42 (9 to 6); Lenox
Library, see p. 50 (9-6); Mercantile Library (p. 42), open to subscribers only
(6 months $ 3); Cooper Institute Reading Room (see p. 42), open free, 8 a.m.
to 10p.m.; Mechanics' Institute Library, 16-24 W. 44th St. (100,000 vols.;
open 8-8); T. M. C. A. Reading Rooms, free, at 317 W. 57th St., 361 Madison
Ave., 5 W. i25th St., etc. (8-10); Young Women's Christian Association, 7 E.
15th St. (9-9); New York Society Library, 109 University Place, founded in
1754 (100,000 vols.; 9-6, reading-room 9-9; for members only); Historical
Society (p. 54), for strangers on the introduction of a member (9-6) ; City
Library (interesting historical works), in the City Hall (p. 38) ; Moit Memorial
Z/i&rary (medical), 64 Madison Ave. (10-5); New York Hospital Library, 6 W.
2*
26 Jloute 2. NEW YORK. Churehes.
iQth St. (medical ; 10-5) ; Law InstUuie Librai'p, Post Office, Booms 116-122,
4th floor (legal; 60,000 vols.; 9-10); American Institute Library^ 19 W.
44th St. (agricultural and industrial; 9-6); Geographical Society.. 15 W.
81st St.; Hispanic Society of America (p. 69), 156th St., near Broadway;
Bookh'vers! Library, 5 E. 23rd St. — There are also food libraries at Columbia
University (p. 66), the University of New York (p. 73), and some of the clubs.
Newspapers. The periodical publications of New York embrace about
50 daily papers, 220 weekly papers and periodicals, and 390 monthly
journals and magazines. Among the chief morning papers are the Herald
(Be; Independent), the Times (Ic; Independent), the Tribune (3c.; Re-
publican), the World (1 c. ; Independent Democratic), the Sun (2 c. ; In-
dependent), the Americaniic. ; Independent), the Press {i c. ; Repub. and Pro-
tectionist), and the German Staatszeitung (3 c. ; Independent). The chief
evening papers are the Evening Post (3 c.; an excellent Independent and
Free Trade organ), the Mail (formerly Mail dt Express; Ic. ; Repub. j, the
evening edition" of the Sun and World f 1 c. each), the Telegram (the evening
edition of the Herald ; Ic), the Journal (the evening edition of the American;
1 c). and the Globe (formerly Commercial Advertiser ; Ic. ; Repub.). Most of
the daily papers publish Sunday edition* ; price 5 c. Among the weeklies are
the Nation, a bigh-class political and literary journal (10 c); tbe Outlook
(10 c); the Independent (10 c.) ; Town <t Country (t^stablished by N. P. Willis as
The Home Jouri'ttl); Collier'' s Weekly., Harper'' s Weekly, and other illustrated
papers; Life, Puck, Judge, and other comic journals; the Scottish American
Journal (7 c); and numerous technical and profe-sional journals. The lead-
ing monthly magazine-^ include the Century, Scribner's, Harper'' s. the North
American Preview, the Popular Science Monthly. McClure''s, Muvsey''s, American,
Outing, Review of Reviews, The World's Work, Harper's Bazaar (for ladies), the
Ladies'' Home Journal, St. Nicholas (for children), Putnam''s, and the Bookman.
The Forum is a good quarterly.
Churches. There are in all about 600 churches in New York, of which
one-fifth are Roman Catholic. The services in the Protestant churches
usually begin at 11 a.m. and 8 p.m. The Sat. papers publish a list of the
preachers for Sunday, and information is freely given at the hotels, at
the City Mission, Fourth Ave., cor. 22nd -^t., or at the Y. M. 0. A. The fol-
lowing list mentions a few of the chief congregations.
Baptist. Calvary Church (PI. H. 2;//), W. 57th St., between Sixth and
Seventh Ave. (Rev. Dr. McArthur); Fifth Avenue (PI. H. 8; //), W. 46th St.,
near Fifth Ave. (Rev. Dr. C. F. Aked); Judson Memorial, Washington Sq.
(see p. 46) ; Madison Avenue, Madison Avenue, cor, of 31st St. (Rev. Dr.
Henry M. Sanders).
Christian Sceenoe. First Church of Christ Scientist, Central Park West,
cor. of 9Bth St.; Second Church of Christ Scientist, Central Park West, cor.
of 68th St. — Three other churches at 82 W. 126th St., in W. 82nd St.,
and at 22S W. 45th St.
Congregational. Broadicav Tabernacle (PI. H, 2;//), Broadway, cor.
56th St. (Rev. Dr. Jeffer'^on); Pilgrim, Madison Ave., cor. 121st St. (Rev.
Frederick Lynch); Mavhatian, Broadwnv, cor. 76th St. (Rev. Dr. Stimson).
Dutch Reformed. Marble Collegiate (Pl.F,3; II), Fifth Ave., cor. 29th St.
(Rev. D. J. Burrell); Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas (p. 48; PI. H 3, //),
Fifth Ave., cor. 48th St. (Rev. Dr. D. SageMackay; these both with good
music and vocal quartettes); Madison Avenue, Madison Ave., cor. 57th St.
(Rev. Dr. Kittredge).
Friends or Quakers. Meeting Houses, E. 15th St., cor. Rutherford
Place, and 144 E. 20th St. (Orthodox).
Lutheran. Guslavus Adolphus Swedish Evangelical, 150 E. 22nd St.
(Rev. Mr. Stolpe); St. James, 870 Madison Ave. (Rev. Dr. Remensnyder);
Evangelical Lutheran Church of the Advent, Broadway, cor. 93rd St. (Rev.
Wm. M. Horn); St. Peter'' s German Evangelical, 474 Lexington Ave. (Rev.
Dr. Moldehnke).
Methodist Episcopal. Calvary, Seventh Ave., cor. 129tli St. (Rev.
Willis P. Odell); Cornell Memorial, E. 76th St. (Rev. Chas. P. Tinker);
StreeU. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 27
Madison Avenue, 659 Madison Ave. (Rev. Dr. Macmullen) ; St. Andrew, W.
76tli St. (Rev. J. 0. Willson); Si. James, Madison Ave. (Rev. Allan McRossie).
Pkesbtteeian. Brick Church (PI. G, 3 ; //), 410 Fifth Ave. (Rev. Dr. Richards
and Rev. Shepherd Knapp) ; i-'ifth Avenue (PI. H, 3 ; //), cor. 55th St. (Rev.
Dr. Ross Stevenson); Old First, 54 Fiftu Ave. (Rev. Dr. Dufrield); Fourth
Avenue, 2S6 Fourth Ave. (Rev. Dr. Buchan;m); Harlem, 122nd St., Mt-
Morris Park West (Rev. Dr. Caughey) ; iVadison Square (PL F,3 ■,IJ). 506 Madi.
son Ave., cor. of Madison Sq. (Rev. Dr. Parkhurst); University Place, cor.
E. 10th St. (Rev. Dr. Alexander).
Pkotestant Episcopal. Cathedral, see p. 66; All Souls, 86 St. Nicholas
Ave. (Rev. G. S Pratt); Calvary, 273 Fourth Ave. (Rev. Dr. J. L. Parks);
Grace Church, 800 Bmadvs^ay (Rev. Dr. Huntington; see p. 42); Heavenly
Rest, 551 Fifth Ave. (Rev. Dr. Morgan; see p. 48); St. Bartholomew, 348 Ma-
dison Ave. (Rev. Dr. Leighton Parks ; see p- 53); St. George, 1 Rutherford
Place (Rev. Hugh Birckhead; see p. 53); St M'chael, Amsterdam Ave. (Rev.
Dr. Peters; see p. 68); St. Thomas ('1 H, 3; //), Fifth Ave., cor. W. 58rd
St. (Rev. E. M. Stires); Trinity, Broadvs^ay, at the corner of Rector St.
(Rev. Dr. WiUiam T. Manning; comp. p. 36); AscenHon, 36 Fifth Ave.
(Rev. Dr. Percy S. Grant; see p. 46); St. Mary the Virgin (PL H, 2;//),
139 W. 4L)th St. (b high church, with an elaborate musical ritual and
orchestra).
Roman Catholic. St. Patricias Cathedral, Fifth Ave. (see p. 48) ; All
Saints, Madison Ave., cor. 129th St. ; St. Francis Xavier (Pi.E, 2, 3;//), 36 W.
16th St.; St. Stephen, 149 E. 2Sth St. ; St. Paul the Apostle, Columbus (Ninth)
Ave., cor. 59th St. ; St. Gabriel, 312 E. 37th St. ; St. Agnes, 143 E. 43rd St, ;
Sacred Heart, 447 W. 51st St.; St. Joseph, 59 Sixth Ave; Blessed Sacrament
(p. 45). There are several German, French, Italian, and Pi ilish R. C. Churches.
Swedenbokgian or New Jebusalem Chdegh at 114 E. 35th St.
Synagogues. Beth-El. Fifth Ave., cor. '6th St. (Rev. Dr. F. S. Schul-
man); Shaarai Tephila, W. 82nd St. (Rev. Dr. de Mendes); Temple Emanu-El,
Fifth Ave., cor. 43rd St. (Rev. J. Silverman and Rev. L. Magnus; see
p. 48); Rodof Sholom Lexington Ave., cor. 63rd St. (Rev. R. Grossmann);
Shearith Israel, Central Park West, cor. 70th St. (Rev. H. P. M ndes).
Unitakian. All Souls (PL E, 3 ; //), Fourth Avenue, cor. 20th St. (Rev.
T. R. SJicer); Messiah (PL G, 3;//), 61 R. 34th St., cor. Park Ave. (Rev.
Dr. Robert Collyer and Rev. Dr. J. H. Holmes).
TJniveksalist. Church of the Divine Paternity, Central Park West, cor.
76th St. (Rev. Dr. Frank 0. Hall).
Among the chief churches for Coloured Persons are St. Benedict the
Moor's (R. C), Eighth Ave., cor. of W. 53rd St., and the Methodist Epis-
copal Churches of Zion (351 Bleecker St.) and Bethel (239 W. 25th St.).
The headquarters of the Salvation Army are at 120 W. 14th St.
The Society for Ethical Culture (Dr. Felix Adler) meets in Carnegie Hall,
Seventh Ave., cor. of 57th St.
The Greater New York Fire Department has its headquarters at 157 E.
67th St. The force, which consists of upwards of 4150 men, with 161 engine
companies (including seven fire-boats), 65 hook and ladder companies, and
7 hose companies, is under the supervision of a Fire Commissioner, with
a Deputy Commissioner at Brooklyn (365 Jay St.). The uniformed force
is under the command of Chief Edw. F. Croker. Its annual cost is about
$7,500,000 (1.500,000?), and it has to deal yearly with 13,000 fires. The
service and equipment are excellent, and the engine-houses and fire-boats
(headquarters at Battery Park) are interesting. — The Insurance Patrol,
maintained by the Board of Fire Underwriters, co-operates with the firemen
in extinguishing fire, besides devoting itself to the special work of guard-
ing property.
Streets. Above 13th St. the streets of New York are laid out very
regularly and cross each other at right angles, the chief exception being
the old thoroughfare of Broadway, which crosses the island diagonally
from S.S.E. to N.N.W. The streets in the lower part of the island are
generally named after colonial worthies. Higher up those running across
the island from E. to W. are numbered consecutively from 1 up to 242,
28 Route 2. NEW YORK. Collections.
while those running N. and S. are named Avenues and numbered from
1 to 12. In the widest part of the island, to the E. of First Avenue, are
the additional short avenues A, E, C, and D, while higher up, between
Third and Fourth and between Fourth and Fifth Avenues respectively,
are Lexington Avenue and Madison Avenue. To the N. of 59th St. the con-
tinuations of 8th, 9th, 10th, and 11th Avenues are known respectively as
Central Park West, Columbus Ave., Amsterdam Ave., and West End Ave.
The numbers in the avenues begin at the S. and run towards the if.
Twenty blocks average 1 M. Above 8th St. the cross-streets are known
as E. and W. with reference to their position to Fifth Ave., and their
numbers begin at this avenue and run E. and W. A new hundred is
begun at each avenue. The avenues are usually 100 ft. wide, and the
cross streets 60-100 ft. The names of the streets are generally given on
the corner lamp-posts. Those of foreign origin are usually anglicized in
pronunciation (e.gr. Desbrosses St., pron. Dess-bross-es St.). New Yorkers
often omit the word 'street' after the name of a street-, thus one will give
his address as 'corner of 5th Ave. and 57th"' 5 while the conductor of the
Elevated Railroad will announce a station as 'Grand' or '23rd.'
Police Stations. The Central Police Station^ with the Office of the
Commissioners of Police and the Headquarters of the Detective Bureau^ is at
300 Mulberry St. (new quarters now being erected in Centre St., between
Broome and Grand Sts.), and the city of Greater New York is divided into
85 precincts, and 8 sub-precincts, each with its police station. The police
force consists of about TSCO patrolmen, and about 1300 superior officers
of all ranks; of these, about 5000 patrolmen and 725 officers are assigned
to Manhattan and the Bronx or old New York proper. The 'Broadway
Squad' and the mounted men in Fifth Ave. are especially efficient and
fine-looking. — The headquarters of the famous Pinkerton Detective Agency
(800 detectives) are at No. 57 Broadway.
Books of Reference. Moses King's 'Views of New York City' illustrates
400 of the chief points of interest (1908; $11/2), while Charles BuardS
'New York comme je I'ai vu' (1906) contains about 200 clever sketches of
New York scenes and types. Theodore Roosevelfs 'New York', in the
Historic Towns Series ($ 1.25), is an extremely interesting little volume.
See also 'Literary New York', by Chas. Hemstreet (1904); 'Tour around
New York', by Felix Oldboy {John F. Mines; 1893); and 'Story of New York',
by Todd. 'The Better New York', by Wra. H. Tolman and Charles Hemstreet,
describes the philanthropic side of the city's life. The leaflets of the City
History Clnb (23 W. 44th St.) are usually excellent (5 c. each). — The
BrooHyn Daily Eagle Almanack and the World Ahnanack are packed with
Tiseful information about Greater New York. Addresses can be found in
the lists of the N. Y. Telephone Co. (p. 20), or in Trow\i Directoi-y, which
may be consulted at any drug -store or hotel- office. Bullinger^s Monitor
Ouide (kept at many hotels, drug-stores, etc.) contains the latest information
as to trains, steamers, intra -mural transportation, ferries, theatres, and
other similar topics. — The best plans of New York are published by August
R. Ohman, 97 Warren St.
British Consulate, 17 State St. (PI. A, 3; /); Consul-General, Courtenay
W. Bennett^ Esq., C. I. E.; Consul, Hon. Reginald Walsh (office-hours, 10-1
& 2-3). — German Consulate, 111 Broadway ; Consul-General, Mr. R. Franksen.
Collections. The following is a list of the principal Exhibitions, Col-
lections, etc., with the hours at which they are open.
Aquarium, Castle Garden (p. 33), open free, daily, 9-5, in winter (Oct. 16th to
April 14th) 10-4 (on Mon. 1-4 or 5).
Assay Office, United States (p. 35), open daily, 10-2 (Sat. 10-12); free.
Botanical Gard<'ns (p. 71), dailv, free.
City Hall (p. 38), daily, 10-4; free.
Custom House, United States (p. 33), daily, 10-2; free.
Decoration, Museum for the Arts of. Cooper Union (p. 42), daily, except Sun.
and Mon.. 9.30-5; free.
Geological Museum at Columbia University (p. 66), daily, 10-4; free.
Grant's Tomb (p. 68), daily, till dusk; free.
Collections. . NEW YOKE. 2. Route. 29
Hispanic Sodety''s Museum (p. 69), daily, 9-5; free.
Libraries. Astor (p. 42), daily, free; Columbia (p. 67), daily, 8-10, free;
''Lenox (p. 50), daily, free, 9-6, upper floor 9-5 (closed on Sun. &
holidays); Mercantile (p. 41), daily, free.
Madison Square Garden i^-^. 21, 53). Visitors admitted to the tower {*View)
daily, 10-6 ; 25c.
-Metropolitan Museum of Art (p. 58), daily, 10 to dusk; on Mon. and
Frid. 25c., at other times free; also on Mon. and Frid. 8-10 p.m.,
and on Sun. afternoon.
Mossman Collection of Locks and Keys (p. 48), in the huilding of the General
Society of Mechanics, 16 W. 44th St.; daily, 9-8, free.
''Natural History. Museum of (p. 58), daily, 9-5' (Mon. & Tuea. 25 c, other
days free); also on Tues. & Sat. 7-10 p.m. and on Sun. 1-5 p.m. (free).
New York Historical Society (p. 54); daily, on introduction by a member
(closed in Aug.).
Picture Galleries. See Metropolitan Museum^ Lenox Library , Hispanic Museum
and New York Historical Society.
Produce Exchange (p. 34); daily; visitors admitted to the balcony; bus-
iness-hours, 9-4; free.
*<Sfi. Patrick''s Cathedral (p. 48); all day; frequent services.
Stock Exchange (p. 35); business -hours , 10-3; visitors admitted to the
gallery; free.
Sub-Treasury of the United States (p. 35) ; daily, 10-3 ; free (vaults shown
to visitors introduced to the Assistant Treasurer).
''Trinity Church (p. 36); open all dav.
World Office (p. 38); visitors admitted to the Dome (*View), 8.30-6; 5 c.
Zoological Garden (p. 71), daily; on Mon. & Thurs. 25 c, on other days free.
Principal Attractions. *Walk or drive in Broadway (p. 34) and Fifth
Avenue (p. 45); -'Central Park (p. 55); "Brooklyn Suspension Bridge (p. 40);
* Metropolitan Art Museum (p. 58); -'Natural History Museum (p. 56);
"St. Patrick^ s Cathedral (p. 48); Public Library (p. 47); ''Lenox Library
(p. 50); Williamsburg Bridge (p. 40); -Riverside Drive (p. 67); Granfs Tomb
(p. 68); Soldiers and Sailor's Monument (p. 68); "Columbia University (p. 66);
High Bridge (p. 70) ; College of the City of New York (p. 69) ; Washington
Bridge (p. 70); Stock Exchange (p. 35); "Trinity Church (p. 36); Tiffany and
Vanderbilt Houses (pp. 53, 49); Grace Church (p. 42); Appellate Court (p. 43);
Flat-iron Building (p. 43); Hispanic Museum (p. 69) ; Zoological Garden (p. 71);
Speedway (p. 69); "Harbour {-p. di):, "Ellis Island {^. 72); Ninth Avenue Ele-
vated Pi.ailroad at 110th St. (p. 16) ; *Views from the Produce Exchange
(p. 34), the World Office (p. 38), the Park Row Building (p. 39), the Singer
Building (p. 37), the Metropolitan Life Insurance Building (p. 44), the Tract
Society Building (p. 39), the Statue of Liberty (p 71), or Madison Square Gar-
den (p. 53). The electric signs and advertisements of Broadway (23rd-59th
Sts.) form a brilliant nightly illumination which the 'country cousin at least
will find noticeable.
Greater New York, constituted by charter in 1897, is the largest
and wealthiest city of the New World, and inferior in population, as
also in commercial and financial importance, to London alone among
the cities of the glohe. It is situated on New York Bay, in 40° 42'
43" N. lat. and 74° 0'3" W. long. It consists of the boroughs of
Manhattan, The Bronx, Brooklyn, Queens, and Richmond, which
have a joint area of 326 sq. M. and an aggregate population (1905)
of 4,013,781, of whom about 35 per cent were foreign-born.
Its extreme length (N. and S.) is 35 M., its extreme width 19 M.
Manhattan or New York proper, with 2,112,380 inhab., consists
mainly of Manhattan Island, a long and narrow tongue of land
bounded by the Hudson or North River on the W. and the East
River (part of Long Island Sound') on the E., and separated from
30 Route 2. NEW YORK. , Population.
tlie mainland on tlie N. and N.E. ty the narrow Harlem River and
Spuyten Duyvil Creek; "bnt also Inclndes several small islands in
New York Bay and the E. River. Manhattan Island is 13 M. long,
and varies in width from abont 1/4-V2 ^- (** its extremities) to
272 ^-1 ^^^ general width heing ahout 1^/4-2 M. It is very rocky,
the chief formations heing gneiss and limestone ; and except in
the S. portion, which is covered with deep alluvial deposits, a
great amount of blasting was necessary to prepare sites for houses
and streets. For about half of its length from the S. it slopes on
each side from a central ridge, and at the upper end the ground
rises precipitously from the Hudson to a height of 240 ft. (Washing-
ton Heights), descending rapidly on the E. side to the Harlem
Flats. The Borough of the Bronx (271,630 inhab.) comprises a
portion of the mainland beyond the Harlem River, extending on
the N. to a point about 5 M. beyond the limits of the map at p. 72,
and also several small islands in the East River and Long Island
Sound. Manhattan and The Bronx together form what has hitherto
been known, and is still known in ordinary parlance, as the City
of New York. This, except when otherwise indicated, will be the
meaning of 'New York' in the following pages. The Borough of
Brooklyn (1,358,686 inhab.), formerly an independent city, is de-
scribed in R. 3. The Borough of Queens (198,240 inhab.) comprises
part of Queens County on Long Island, including Flushing (p. 81),
part of Hempstead , Jamaica, Long Island City (p. 78), and New-
town. Its outer boundary is 1 1/2-2 Vo M. to the E. of the map at
p. 72. The Borough of Richmond (72,845 inhab.) is conterminous
with Staten Island (p. 72).
The population of 'Sew York in 1890, according to the government
census, amounted to 1.515,301; that of the various districts now constitut-
ing Greater New York was about 2,500.000. In 1699 New York contained
only about 6000 inhab. and in 1776 about 22,000 (comp. p. 32); and at the
first United States census (1790) it had 33,131. In 180' the population was
60,515; in 1820, 123.706; in 1S40, 312.710; in 1860, 813,669; and in 1880,
1,206,299. Jersey City (p. 73), Hoboken (p. 73), and other New Jersey sub-
urbs, though in a different state, practically form part of the one huge
city on New York Bay, and would add upwards of 400,000 to the popu-
lation given above. The population is composed of very heterogeneous
elements, including about 330,000 Irish, 390,000 Germans, 110,000 English
and Scottish, 175,000 Italians, 185,000 Russians, 70,000 negroes, and 10,000
Chinese. A large proportion are Roman Catholics. The death-rate is
about 18 per 1000.
Greater New York is governed by a Mayor and a Municipal Assembly
consisting of two chambers. At the head of each of the separate boroughs
is a President. The assessed valuation of taxable propertv in Greater New
York is about $ 4,800,000,000 (one-twentieth of the wealth" of the U. S.A.);
its annual revenue is about $ 170,000,000. Its debt (S 593,552,120) is more
than twice as large as that of London. The daily water supply amounts to
400,000,000 gallons. Other statistics show that Greater New York contains,
2600 M. of streets (1850 M. paved). 7000 acres of parks and open spaces,
1350 M. of tramwavs. and 66 M. of elevated railwavs. A site at the corner of
Broadway and Wail St. was sold in 1906 for § 576"(ca.l20^.) per square foot.
The lower and older part of New York is irregularly laid out, and
many of the streets are narrow and winding. The old buildings,
Harbour. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 31
however, have been almost entirely replaced by huge new piles of
offices , banks , and warehouses. This part of the city is entirely
given up to business and is the chief seat of its vast commercial
enterprise and wealth. Above 13th St. New York is laid out with
great regularity (^arrangement of the streets, see p. 27), but the
precipitous banks of the Hudson at the N. end of the island (comp.
p. 69) have necessitated some deviation from chessboard regularity
in that district. Nearly the whole of Manhattan Island, as far as
155th St., is now covered with streets and buildings, but much of
the narrow part of the island beyond that point and a still larger
proportion of The Bronx (p. 70) have not yet been built over. The
names of many of the villages absorbed by the growth of the city
s ill cling to the districts here (Manhattan ville, Harlem, Washington
Heights, Morrisania, etc.). In proportion to its size New York is,
perhaps somewhat poorly furnished with open spaces, but Central
Park (p. 55) is one of the finest parks in the world, and ample
open spaces have been reserved beyond the Harlem River (comp.
p. 70). The handsomest streets and residences are generally near
the centre of the island, the most fashionable quarters being Fifth
Avenue, Madison Avenue , and the portions of the cross-streets
contiguous to these thoroughfares. The islands in the harbour be-
long to the U. S. Government, while those in the E. River are occu-
pied by charitable and correctional institutions belonging to the
city. New York is connected with Brooklyn by three fine bridges
(pp. 40, 41), and another is building; various schemes for tun-
nelling the Hudson are now also completed or in progress. Several
bridges cross the Harlem River.
*New York Harbour (comp. p. 2) is one of the finest in the
world. The Upper Bay or New York Harbour Proper, 8 M. long
and 4-5 M. wide, is completely landlocked and contains several
islands. It communicates through the Narrows (p. 2) with Lower
New York Bay, which is protected from the ocean by a bar run-
ning N. from Sandy Hook in New Jersey (18 M. from the Battery)
towards Long Island. The bar is crossed by three channels, ad-
mitting vessels of 30 - 40 ft. draught. At the Battery the har-
bour divides into two branches : the Hudson or North River to the
left and the East River to the right. The latter is really a tidal
channel connecting New York Bay with Long Island Sound.
Manhattan Island, between the two rivers, has a water-front of
about 30 M., all of which is available for sea-going vessels except
about 5 M. on the Harlem River (comp., however, p. 70 ; water
front of Greater New York about 350 M.). On the other side of the
North River, here about 1 M. wide , lies the State of New Jersey,
with its riverside cities of Jersey City, Hoboken, etc. (comp. p. 73 ;
ferries, see p. 19). To the E. of East River is Long Island, with
Brooklyn and Long Island City (comp. R. 3). The shipping is
mainly confined to the North River below 23rd St. , and to the
32 Route 2. NEW YORK. History.
East River below Graud St. Tte former contains the docks of tlie
Transatlantic lines, some of wMcli are on tlie New Jersey side.
A walk along South St. shows the shipping in the East River,
representing a large proportion hoth of the foreign and domestic
trade of New York. Both rivers are alive with ferry-boats. A
pleasant feature of the water-front is formed by the Pier Gardens
or Recreation Piers, intended as winter and summer resorts for
the inhabitants of the poorer riverside districts. For the islands,
Hell Gate, etc., see pp. 2, 3, 71, 72, 246, 247.
History. Manhattan Island and the mouth of the Hudson are said to
have been visited by the Florentine Verrazzani in 1524, but the authentic
history of IN^ew York begins with the exploration of Henry Hudson in
1609 (see p. 82; tercentenary to be celebrated in Sept., 1909). The first
permanent settlement on Manhattan Island was made by the Dutch
West India Co. in 1624, and the first regular gOA^evnor was ' Peter Minuit,
a Westphalian, who bought the island from the Indians for 60 guilders
(about S 25 or bl.). The little town he founded was christened New
Amsterdam and by 1650 had about 1000 inhabitants. The citizens estab-
lished farms, traded for furs with the Indians, and entrenched them-
selves in fortifications , the ^. limit of which coincided with the present
line of Wall St. (p. 35). Peter Stuyvesant, the last of the four Dutch
governors, arrived in 1647. In 1664 the town was seized, in time of peace,
by the English under Col. Nicholls , and though retaken by the Dutch in
1673, it passed permanently into English possession by treaty in the following
year. The first regular English governor was Sir Edmund Andros. The
name of the town was changed to Neic York in honour of the Duke of York,
to whom his brother, Charles II., had granted the entire province. Among
the chief incidents in the Anglo-Colonial period were the usurpation of
Leisler, leader of the progressive party, in 1689-91, and the Negro Insur-
rection in 1741, the coloured slaves forming at this time not far short of
half the population. In 1765 the delegates of nine of the thirteen colonies
met in New York to protest against the Stamp Act and to assert the doe-
trine of no taxation without representation ; and the first actual bloodshed
of the Revolution took place here in 1770 (six weeks before the Boston
Massacre, p. 262), in a scuffle with the soldiers who tried to remove the
'Liberty Pole' of the Sons of Liberty. At this time Xew York had about
20,000 inhab. (less than either Boston or Philadelphia); and the Ratzer
Map of 1767 shows that the town extended to the neighourhood of the
present City Hall Park (p. 37). The town was occupied by Washington
in 1776, but after the battles of Long Island and Harleni Heights (see
p. 69) the Americans retired, and New York became the British head-
quarters for seven years. The British troops evacuated the citv on Nov.
25th, 1788. From 1785 to 1790 New York was the seat of the Federal
Government, and it was the State capital down to 1797. Hamilton., Jay.,
and Burr were among the prominent men of this period. At the begin-
ning of the 19th century the city had 60,000 inhab., and since then its
growth has been very rapid, the tide of immigration setting in power-
fully after the war of 1-^12, in which New York suffered considerably
from the blockade. In 1807 the first steamboat was put on the Hudson
(see p. 82), and in 1825 a great impulse to the city's commerce was given
l3y the opening of the Erie Canal (p. 92). The Harlem Railwav dates
from 1831; the Elevated Railroad from 1887; gas-lighting from 1825; the
use of electricity for illumination from about 1881. In the Civil War New
York sent 116,000 men to the Federal armies, but in 1863 it was the scene of
a riot in opposition to the draft, which cost 1000 lives. For several years
the city suffered under the machinations of the so-called ''Tweed king\
which had gained control of the municipal government; but in 1872
'Boss' Tweed and several of his fellow-conspirators were convicted of
embezzlement of public funds and imprisoned. In March, 1888, New
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Battery. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 33
York was visited by a terrible 'blizzard', or storm of wind and snow,
which cut off all communication with the outside world for several days,
causing many deaths and much suffering. In 1890 a Comm-ission was
appointed by the State Legislature to inquire into the expediency of the
consolidation of New York with Brooklyn and other contiguous towns
and cities. In 1896 the act to make this consolidation became law, and
in 1897 the charter of Greater New York (p. 29) was finally passed. —
Washington Irving {\a^A?)0^-^ comp. pp.54, 'SI) d.n6. Henry James (b, in 1843
at No. 21 Washington Place, PI. D, 3) were born in New York.
Commerce and Industry. The importance of New York as a commercial
centre is shown by the fact that nearly 50 per cent of the entire foreign
trade of the United States is carried on through its port. In ItOT the
value of foreign imports and exports was 5 1,7(j9,164,423 (341,832,835 l.).
In the same year the harbour was entered by 4229 vessels, of 11,383,345
tons, and cleared by 3764, of 10.472,601 tons. The duties collected on im-
ports amounted to $ 219,7ci6,773. About four-fifihs of the immigrants into
the United States land at New York, the number in the year ending
June 30th, 1907, being 1,004,756. The manufactures of New York, though
relatively less important than its commerce, are very varied and exten-
sive, producing in 1900 goods to the value of $1,371,858,468 (274,271, 693i.)
and employing 462,763 hands.
The S. extremity of the island on wMcli New York stands is occu-
pied by the Battekt (PI. A, 3, /), a pleasant little park, 20 acres in
extent, commanding a good view of the harbour but now somewhat
marred by the intrusion of the elevated railroad. It takes its name
from the oldiFort Amsterdam (see p. 34 and below) erected here by the
early Dutch settlers and was long the fashionable quarter for residen-
ces. The park contains a statue of. John Ericsson (1803-89; p. 561),
the inventor, by J. Scott Hartley (1893). The large circular erection
on the W. side is Castle Garden, formerly the landing-place and
temporary quarters of immigrants, which have now been transferred
to Ellis Island (p. 72). It was at one time a concert-hall, where Jenny
Lind made her first appearance in America (1850). It is now fitted
up as the New York Aquarium (PL A 3, /; adm., see p. 28; cata-
logue 10 c), which contains a very large and fine collection of fish
and marine animals. Among the chief objects of interest are the
manatee or sea-cow, the seals, the sea-lions, the giant turtles,
and the tropical fish. — The United States Barge Office (PI. A,
3 ; /), a tasteful building with a tower 90 ft. high, a Little to the E.,
is an appendage of the custom-house. At the corner of West St. is
the Whitehall Building (PI. A 3, /; 20 stories high). Many harbour
and ferry steamers start from the Battery (comp. pp. 19, 72).
On the N. the Battery is adjoined by the Bowling Geeen
(PI. A, 3; 7), the cradle of New York, a small open space, with a
statue of Abraham de Peyster (1657-1728), by G. E. Bissell, in the
middle. It is enclosed by the Washington Building (p. 34; W.),
the new Custom House (S.), and the Produce Exchange (p. 34; E.).
The *CusTOM House (PI. A, 3 ; 1), a large quadrangular granite
building, in the French Renaissance style, designed liy Cass Gilbert,
was erected in 1902-07 and occupies the site ot Fort Amsterdam
(p. 34; memorial tablet on one of the walls). The facade towards
Bowling Green is adorned with colossal groups of Europe, Asia,
34 Route 2. NEW YORK. Broadway.
Africa, and America, "by Dan. C. French, and with 12 heroic figures
representing the great sea-powers. Adm., see p. 28.
Fort Amsterdam, which included the governor''8 house and a chapel,
was built in 1B26 and demolished in 1787. A statue of George HI., which
formerly stood here, was pulled down on the day of the Declaration of
Independence ('uly 4th, 1776) and melted into bullets. The Washington
Building (see below) is on the site of the house erected in 17b0 by Archibald.
Kennedy, Collector of the Port of New York, and afterwards occupied
by the British generals Cornwallis, Howe, and Clinton (memorial tablet).
Benedict Arnold also occupied a house on the Green, after he fled to
British protection ; and he was very nearly captured in his garden by a
party of Americans rowing over from the New -lersey shore. The railing
round the Bowling Green circle dates from before the Revolution.
In Whitehall Street, opposite the Custom House, is the Peo-
DUCE Exchange (PI. A, 3; /), a huge brick and terracotta structure
in the Italian Renaissance style, containing numerous offices and a
large hall (1st floor), 220 ft. long, 144 ft. wide, and 60 ft. high
(adm., see p. 29). The tower, 225 ft. high, commands a fine *View
of the city and harbour (elevator).
Whitehall Street, containing the U. S. Army Building (PL A, 3 ; /), leads
hence to the S.E. to the South, Hamilton, and 39th St. ferries to Brooklyn
(p. 19). A little to the E., at the S.E. corner of Broad St. and Pearl St.,
is the old Fraunces Tavern, where Washington took farewell of his of-
ficers in 1783. It was erected in 1719 and restored hy the Sons of the
Revolutiun in 1907. There is a restaurant on the sroundiloor, while up-
stairs is a smi,l] collection of relics. No. 73, Pearl St., was the first Dutch
tavern, afterwards the Stadhuys or City Hall (tablet).
At the Bowling Green begins *Broadway (PI. A-Q, 3-1), the chief
street in New York, extending hence all the way to Yonkers (p. 86),
a distance of 19 M. Up to 33rd St., Broadway is the scene of a most
busy and varied traffic, which reaches its culminating point in the
lower part of the street during business-hours. This part of the street
is almost entirely occupied by wholesale houses, insurance offices,
banks, and the like; but farther up are numerous fine shops ('stores' ;
comp. p. 25). Broadway is no longer, as in the Dutch-colonial days
of its christening, the broadest street in New York, but it is still
the most important. The number of immensely tall office-buildings
with which it is now lined give it a curiously canyon-like appearance
as we look up it. No. 1 Broadway, to the left, is the Washington
Building (PI. A 3, 7; see p. 33), which is adjoined by the Bowling
Qreen Building (16 stories), designed by English architects. Other
conspicuous business premises in the lower part of Broadway are the
large Welles and Standard Oil Co. Buildings (to the right, Nos. 18,
26; PI. A 3, /), the 42 Broadway Building (right; 20 stories; PI. A
3, J), and Aldrich Court (Nos. 43-45; left), on the site of the first
habitation of white men on Manhattan Island (tablet of the Holland
Society). At No. 55 (1.) is a Revolutionary cannon, found in digging
the foundations and used as the newel of the outside steps. A little
higher up, to the right, at the corner of Exchange Place, is the
Exchange Court Building, with large and excellent bronze statues
of Stuyvesant (p. 32), Clinton, Hudson (p. 32), and Wolfe, by
Wall Street. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 35
J. Massey RMnd. At Nos. 64-68 (right) is the Manhattan Life In-
surance Co. (PI. A, 3; i), the tower of which is 360 ft. high (view).
To the left, at the corner of Rector St., is the imposing Empire
Building (20 stories; PI. A 3, i), the hall of which forms a hnsy
thoroughfare between Broadway and the Rector St. 'El' station. This
brings ns to Trinity Church (p. 36), opposite which is Wall Street
(see below).
Wall Street (PI. A, 3; 7), diverging from Broadway to the right, is the
Lombard Street of New York, 'the great nerve centre of all American busi-
ness', and 'the financial barometer of the country', where 'finance and
transportation, the two determining powers in business, have their head-
quarters'. The street, which follows the line of the walls of the Dutch city,
consists mainly of a series of substantial and handsome banks and office
buildings. To the left, one block from Broadway, at the corner of
Nassau St., is the Manhattan Trust Buildmg, 270 ft. high. At the opposite
corner of the same street stands the United States Sub-Treasury (PI. A3, /;
adm., see p. 29), a marble structure with a Doric portico, approached by
a flight of steps bearing a large bronze statue of George Washington ^ by
J. Q.A.Ward, erected in 1883. The building occupies the site of the
old Federal Hall^ in which the first U.S. Congress was held and Wash-
ington was inaugurated as President. Next to the Sub-Treasury is the U.S.
Assay Office (adm. , p 2S) , where strangers may see the processes of
assaying and refining the crude bullion. Opposite, at the corner of Broad
St. (see below), is th.Q,Drexel Building (PI. A, 3;/), a white marble structure
in the Renaissance style (headquarters of J. Pierpont Morgan). At the
corner of Exchange Place (see below) is the office of the Trust Co. of America
(23 stories). Farther along Wall St., at the corner of William St., is the
National City Bank, ocup^ing the old Custom House (PI. A, 3; 7), which
has been remodelled and enlarged for its new functions by McKim, Mead, &
White. — On the right, between Hanover St. and Pearl St. (with the Cotton
Exchange; PI. A 3, 7), is the Sampson Building^ and opposite (left) is the
Tontine Building. At the junction of Wall, Pearl, and Beaver Sts. rises the
Beaoer Building (PI. A, 3 •, 7), a 'flat-iron' fc imp. p. 43) of tice-bailding (15 storie.").
Wall St then cro.'^ses Water St. and Front St., and ends at South St. and the
ferry to Montague St., Brooklyn.
Beoad St., a busy street leaving Wall St. opposite the Sub-Treasury,
contains the *Stoek Exchange (PI. A, 3; 7), a white marble building to the
right, by George B. Post (1903), with other entrances in Wall St. and New St.
Strangers, who are admitted to a gallery overlooking the hall (comp.
p. 29), should not omit a visit to this strange scene of business, tumult,
and excitement, a wilder scene probably than that presented in any
European exchange (business-hours 10-3). The value of railway and other
stocks dealt with here daily often amounts to $ 30,000,000 (6,000,000Z.),
besides government bonds. As much as $ 95,000 (19,000Z.) has been paid
for a seat in the New York Stock Exchange. The small stands on the
floor represent various stocks (No. 1 Steel Trust, No. 2 Union Pacific, etc.).
The numbers appearing on the large black boards on the walb are tel-
ephone-calls for members on the floor. There are about 1200 members. —
Opposite the Exchange, adjoining the Drexel Building (see above), is the Mills
Building, one of the first of New York's great office-buildings (1882), now
somewhat dwarfed by the modern 'sky-scraper'. At the S.E. corner of Broad
St. and Exchange Place is the Broad-Exchange Building, a 20-story struc-
ture, 276 ft. high. The Commercial Cable Budding (PI. A, 3 -,7), with its two
domes, is 317ft. high (view from the roof; pass from the Superintendent).
At the S.E. corner of Broad and Beaver Sts. is the Consolidated Stock and
Petroleum Exchange (PI. A 3, 1; visitors admitted to the gallery, see p. 29).
Broad St. ends at South St., a little to the N.W. of the Battery (p. 33),
Nassau St., running N. from Wall St., opposite Broad St., contains the
Hanover Bank Building (PI. A 3, 7-, 22 stories; 1903), at the corner of Pine
Sir., and, a little to the N., the office of the ''Mutual Life Insurance Co.
36 Route 2. NEW YORK. Broadway.
(PI. B, 3; J), one of the handsomest business structures in New York, but
not seen to advantage in this narrow street. A tablet commemorates the
fact that this was the site of the Middle Dutch Church (1727). At the corner
of Cedar St. is the National Bank of Commerce (P1.B,3;/), 270 ft. in height.
— In Cedar St., between K'assau St. and Broadway, is the handsome build-
ing of the 'New York Clearing House Association (PI. B, 3; /), the business
of which averages S 310,000,000 daily and amounts to § 95,000,000,000
(19,000,000,000?.) per year. The largest daily transaction on record (May
10th, 1901) amounted to $ 622,410,525. — In Liberty St., the next cross-
street above Cedar St., is the ^New York Chamber of Commerce (PI. B, 3; /),
the oldest commercial corporation in the United States (1770); the present
building was designed by J. B. Baker and consists of white marble on a
granite base, with Ionic columns and statues of De Witt Clinton, John Jay,
and Alex. Hamilton on the facade (1903), — New Steeet (PI. A, 3 ; /), run-
nings. fromWaU St., is, perhaps, the most canyon-like street in New York.
On the W. side of Broadway, opposite the l)egiiining of Wall St.,
rises *Trinity Churcii (PL A 3, I; comp. p. Ixxxix), a handsome
Gothic edifice of hio^n stone, hy R. M, Upjohn, 192 ft. long, 80 ft.
wide, and 60 ft. high, with a spiie 285 ft. high. The present bxdlding
dates from 1839-46, bnt occupies the site of a church of 1696. The
church owns property to the value of at least $20,000,000 (4,000,000^.),
used in the support of several subsidiary churches and numerous
charities (comp. p. 93).
The IsTEKioR (adm., see p. 29), dimly lighted by stained glass, affords
a strange contrast to the bustling life of Broadway. The chancel is at
the W. end. The altar and reredos, built as a memorial of "William B.
Astor, are handsomely adorned with marble and mosaics. The bronze
doors are a memorial of John Jacob Astor. In the so-called 'Bishops'
Room' is the cenotaph of Bishop Onderdonk; in the vestry is the white
marble monument of Bishop Holart (1775-1830; comp. p. 134). — In the
N.E. corner of the Chuechtaed is a Gothic Monument in memory of Amer-
ican patriots who died in British prisons during the Revolution. Ad-
jacent is a bronze statue of Judge Waits., Recorder of New York under
the British, erected in 1892. By the S. railing of the churchyard is the
grave of Alexander Hamilton (d". 1804; tomb with pyramidal top). Robert
Fulton (d. 1815; pp. 82, 85), the father of the steamboat, lies in the vault
of the Livingston family, near the S. side of the chancel. Close to the
S.E. corner of the church is the monument of Gapi. Lawrence, slain in
1813 in his gallant defence of the 'Chesapeake' against the British frigate
'Shannon'. Among the other tombs are those of the ill-fated Charlotte
Temple 0), Albert Gallatin (Secretary of the Treasury 1801-13), Gen. Phil.
Kearney (d. 1862), and Wm. Bradford (d. 1752), printer of the first New
York newspaper. The oldest stone is dated 1681. See 'History of the
Parish' by Dr. Morgan Bix (1906).
The lofty building (23 stories) in Rector St., behind Trinity Church,
belongs to the U. S. Express Co. (PI. A, 3;/).
Just above Trinity Church are the enormous Trinity and TJ. S.
Realty Buildings (PI. B 3, /; two dignified structures by Francis
H. Kimball, the former with an admirable facade in a modified
Gothic style), and nearly opposite are the *Union Trust Co. (No. 80
Broadway) and the 23-story building of the American Surety Co.
(cor. Pine St., PI. A 3, /; 306 ft. high), the latter containing the
United States Weather Bureau ('Old Probabilities'). On the same
side, between Pine St. and Cedar St., is the office of the Equitable
Life Insurance Co. (PI. B, 3; /).
The block to the left, between Liberty St. and Cortlandt St. is
Broadway. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 37
occupied by tlie buildings of the Singer Manufacturing Co. (Pl.B 3, i;
by E. Flagg), the City Realty Co., and tbe City Investing Co. The
tower (*View) of the first of these, with its 41 stories, rises to a height
of 612 ft. (surpassed only by the Metropolitan Life Co., p. 44).
In Ch-urcli St., one block to tbe W. of Broadway, stand the twin
Hudson Terminal Buildings (PL B 3, I; Cortlcmdt Building, between Cort-
landt and Dey Sts., Fulton Building, between Dey and Ftilton Sts.), rising
to a height of 22 stories and together forming the largest ofiics-building
in the world (10,000 tenants; 39 elevators). The architects were Clinton
& Russell. The two buildings constitute the ]N'ew York terminal of the
Hudson and Manhattan Railroad Tunnels, running under the Hudson River
to Montgomery St., Jersey City (see p. 10) 5 and the four stories below
ground, forming one continuous structure, contain the ticket-offices, con-
course, and platforms for the electric trains running through the tunnels.
Two similar tunnels (PI. C, D, 1, 2) cross the river from 15th St., Jersey
City, to Morton St., New York; and all four are popularly known as the
McAdoo Tunnels from the name of their chief entrepreneur. From Morton
St. a subway has been constructed to Sixth Ave. at 9th St. (PI. D, E, 2, 3),
and thence due N. to the corner of Sixth Ave. and 33rd St. (PI. F, G, 1;II),
where a large terminal station will be built. A parallel subway on the New
Jersey shore will connect with aU the large terminal railway-stations there;
and in New York there will be connections with the Manhattan Subway
and the new Pennsylvania R, R. Station. The tunnels bring New York
within a few minutes of Jersey City and Hoboken (comp. p. 19). The
whole system is expected to be completed early in 1910.
Several other sky-scrapers are passed on Broadway before we
reach Fulton St.
Fulton Street (PI. B, 2, 8 ; 7), one of the busiest streets in New York, leads
E. to Fulton Market (fish, oysters, etc.) and Fulton Ferry (for Brooklyn) and
W. to Washington Market, which may be visited for the sake of its
wonderful display of fruit, vegetables, and other provisions.
At the S.W. corner of Fulton St. rises the tall and narrow office
of the Mail and at theN.E. corner is i)a.Q National Park Bank (PI. B,
3; I). — Just above, on the right side of Broadway, is the lofty
St. Paul Building (cor. of Ann St.), with its 26 stories (308 ft.
high). Opposite, at the comer of Yesey St., is St. Paul's Church
(PI. B, 3; i), the oldest church-edifice in New York (1756).
The graveyard contains some interesting monuments (Emmet, the Irish
patriot, monument to the S.E. of the church; G. F. Cooke, the actor), and
in the portico at the E. end of the church (next Broadway) there is a
memorial of General Montgomery, who fell at the storming of Quebec in
1775. The positions of the square pews in which George Washington and
Governor Clinton used to sit, in the N. and S. aisles, are marked by tablets
on the walls.
On the N. side of Vesey St., between Broadway and Church St., is the
office of the Evening Post (long edited by Wm. C. Bryant).
Between Yesey and Barclay St. is the Astor House (p. 12), with
an interesting collection of views of old New York in the basement.
Broadway now reaches the S. end of the open space known as
City Hall Park, the site of the ancient 'Commons' or pasturage, in
and around which stand several important buildings. In the apex
between Broadway and Park Row (p. 38) is the Post Office (PL B,
3 5 J), a large Renaissance building, with a mansard roof (1875).
Its four fagades are respectively 290, 340, 130, and 230 ft. long.
On the third and fourth floors are the United States Courts. Nearly
38 Routed. NEW YORK. Parh Bow.
7 000 men are employed in the New York Post Office, and over
i' 000, 000,000 letters and other postal packets are annually dealt
with (comp. p. ] 9). [A large new Post Office hnilding is in con-
templation.] — Behind the Post Office, to the N., is the —
*City Hall (PI. B 3, J; adm., see p. 28), containing the head-
qnarters of the Mayor of Greater New York and other municipal
anthorities. It is a well-proportioned hnilding of marhle in the
Italian style, with a central portico, two projecting wings, and a
cnpola clock-tower. Mr. Henry James speaks of its 'perfect taste and
finish, the reduced, yet ample scale, the harmony of the parts, the
just proportions, the modest classic grace, the living look of the type
aimed at'. The architect was John McComb. The rear was huilt of
free-stone, as it was supposed at its erection (1803-12) that no one
of importance would ever live to the N. of the building.
The Governov's B.oom (open to visitors, 10-4), used for official receptions,
contains the chairs used in the first U.S. Congress, the chair in which
Washington was inaugurated as President, the desk on which he wrote
his first message to Congress, Jefferson's desk, and other relics. Among
the portraits are those of Hamilton, Lafavette (by Samuel F. B. M<>rse),
and several governors of New York. Jefferson is commemorated by a statue,
and Washington by a bron/e replica (.f l)avid d' Angers" bust. The room
is to be restored to its original condition by a gift from Mrs. Russell Sage.
The Council Chamber contains a large portrait of Washington, by Trumbull.
The City Library (Euom iS"o. 10) has some valuable historical works.
To the N. of the City Hall is the Court House (PI. B 3, J; 1861-
67), a large building of white marble, with its principal entrance,
garnished with lofty Corinthian columns, facing Chambers St. The
interior, which contains the State Courts and several municipal
offices, is well fitted up. The building, owing to the 'Ring Frauds'
(p. 82), cost 12 million dollars (2,400,000^.). Opposite the Court
House, in Chambers St., are various City Offices. These include
the new Register's Office or Hall of Records (PL B,3; /), a handsome
building in the French Renaissance style, erected at a cost of
$ 6,000,000 and faced with granite. The facade is adorned with
sculptures by Martiny, Weinert, and Bush-Brown; and the interior
is also elaborately decorated. — To the S.W. of the City Hall, facing
Broadway, is a ^Statue of Naihan Hale (1755-76), a victim of the
Revolution, by MacMonnies (1893),
To tbe iS^. of the Hall of Records, at the corner of Reade and Lafayette
Sts. (PL B, 3; 7), is the Manhattan Water Tnnk (now enclosed, but visible
through the windows), built in 1799 by the Manhattan Water Co., of which
Aaron Burr was president. The retention of the tank full of water is one
of the conditions of the Charter of the Manhattan Bank.
Park Row (PL B, 3; /), bounding th*e S.E. side of the City Hall
Park, contains the offices of many of the principal New York news-
papers. The Pulitzer Building, with the World Office (PI. B, 3;/),
of brown stone, with a dome, is the tallest and largest of these,
and a splendid *View of New York is obtained from the dome
(310 ft.5 elevator; adm., see p. 29; height to apex of lantern
3751/2 ft-)- Next to it (to the S.) is the Tribune Building (PL B, 3 ; /),
Five Points. NEW YORK. Route. 2. 39
of red brick with white facings and a cloek-tower 285 ft. Mgli. The
Potter Building (PI, B, 3 ;i) contains the office of the New Tork Press.
The tall structure overtopping this is the hnilding of the American
Tract /Soeieti/[Pl. B, 3;i), at the comer of Nassan and Sprnce Sts.
(23 stories, 306 ft. high; restaurant on the top floor, see p. 15).
To the right of the Potter Building, opposite the S. apex of the Post
Office, is the Park Bow Building (30 stories ; PI. B 3, /), with its
lofty towers (387 ft. 5 *View3. It has 950 offices, occupied by about
6000 persons. Opposite the newspaper offices, in Printing House
Square, is a bronze Statue of Benjamin Franklin (the tutelary deity
of American journalism), by Plassman, and in front of the Tribune
Building is a seated bronze figure, by J. Q. A. Ward, of its famous
founder Horace Greeley (1811-72), erected in 1872.
The part of Park Row beyond this point, and the adjacent Baxter
Si. (the 'Bay'), are mainly occupied by Jewish dealers in old clothes
and other articles. Park Row ends at Chatham Square, whence the 'Bowery
(PI. C, D, 4, 3), named from the Dutch 'Boueries'' or farms in this part
of the town, runs K. to the junction of Third and Fourth Avenues (see
p. 51). The Bowery is now full of drinking-saloons, dime museums, small
theatres, and hucksters' stalls, and presents one of the most crowded
and characteristic scenes in New York, though it is much less 'rowdy'
than when Dickens described it in his 'American Notes'. Its residents are
mainly Germans and Poles. At the Bowery Mission (No. 55, near Canal St. ;
PI. C, 4) bread is distributed free to all-comers nightly at 1 a.m., and the
'Bread Line' often numbers 1500 persons. — Five Points (PL B, C, 3; /), the
district (roughly speaking) between Park Row (S.E.), Centre St. (W.),
and Grand St. (N.), once bore the reputation of being the most evil district
in New York. Like the Seven Dials in London, it has, however, of late
been wonderfully improved by the construction of new streets, the removal
of old rookeries, and the invasion of commerce. It took its name from
the 'five points' formed by the intersection of Worth (then Anthony),
Baxter, and Park Streets ; and here now stand the Five Points Mission and
the Five Points House of Industry i^isitoTS courteously received). Perhaps the
most interesting parts of the district now are the Italian quarter in Mul-
berry St., with its once famous 'Bend' (PI. C 3, /; now a small public park),
and Chinatown in Mott St. and Pell St., the squalor of which presents some
elements of the picturesque. The swinging lanterns and banners of China-
town give a curiously oriental air to this part of the city. Visits may be
paid to the Joss House at No. 16, and the Chinese Restaurant at No. 14 Mott
St., to the Theatre at 18 Doyer St., and (in the company of a detective)
to one of the Opium Joints (the last somewhat of a 'fake'). The Ghetto
Market at Seward Park (PI. C, 4), the centre of the quarter of the Russian
and Austrian Jews, is also interesting. — In J!few Chambers St., leading
to the right from Park Row, is the Newsboys Lodging House, erected by
the Children's Aid Society (founded by G. Loring Brace in 1853 ; offices in
the United Charities Building, 105 E. 22nd St., p. 51), which has given
shelter in the last 50 years to about 400,000 boys, at a total expense
of about $ 550,000 (110,000?.). — On the E. side of City Hall Park are the
starting-point of the City Hall branch of the Third Avenue Elevated Rail-
road (see p. 16) and the approaches to Brooklyn Bridge (p. 40). — At the
junction of Pearl St. and Cherry St. (PI. B, 4; /), below an arch of Brooklyn
Bridge, is a tablet marking the site of the first Presidential mansion of
Oeorge Washington (1789-90).
[It is believed that the small Mulberry Bend Park (see above) will be
selected as the site of a large new Court House about to be erected by
the City of New York. A new Municipal Office Building is to be erected
at the corner of Chambers St. and Park Row.]
Baedeker's United States. 4th Edit. 3
40 Route 2. NEW YORK. Brooklyn Bridge.
The great *Brooklyn Bridge (PI. B, 3, 4, i; p. 16), connecting
New York with Brooklyn (p. 74), was nntil the other day (comp.
helow) the largest snspension-bridge in the world and is equally
Interesting as a marvel of engineering skill and as a model of
grace and heanty. Its New York terminus is in Park Row, facing
the City Hall Park, where it has direct connection with the
Elevated Railway [comp. p. 16), while the Brooklyn end is at
Sands St. The bridge affords accommodation for two railway
tracks (comp. p. 16), two carriage-roadways (now traversed by
electric tramways; p. 18), and a wide raised footway in the centre.
It was begun in 1870 and opened for traffic in 1883, at a total ex-
pense of nearly $ 15,000,000 (3,000, OOOg. It was designed by Jo/in
A. Roebling (d. 1869) and was completed by his son Washington
Roebling. The toll for one-horse vehicles is 5 c. ; pedestrians and
bicycles pass free. The surface and elevated roads of Brooklyn cross
the bridge to its New York terminus (fare to any part of Brooklyn
5 c.).
The total length of the bridge, including the approaches, is 5990 ft.
(li/s M.); and the distance between the piers is 1595 ft. (main spans of
Forth Bridge ca. 1700 ft. ; Suspension Bridge over the Danube at Budapest
1250 ft.; Menai Suspension Bridge 580 ft.). The width is 85 ft., and the
height above high-water 135 ft. The gigantic stone piers, rising 270 ft.
above high-water, are built on caissons sunk upon the rocky bed of the
stream, which is 45 ft. below the surface on the Brooklyn side and 80 ft.
on the New York side. The bridge itself, which is entirely of iron and
steel, is suspended from the towers by four 16- inch steel-wire cables,
which are 'anchored'' at each end by 35,000 cubic yards of solid masonry.
The four cables contain 14,360 M. of wire, and their weight is about
3600 tons. The hanging cables attached to the large ones number 2172.
The bridge-trains annually convey about 60,000,000 passengers, and
the trolley-cars about 50,000,000, while probably at least 5,000,000 more
cross on foot. The *View from the raised promenade in the middle of
the bridge is one which no visitor to New York should miss. To the
N. is the E. River, with its busy shipping; to the S. is the Harbour, with
the Statue of Liberty (p. 71) in the distance; to the W. is New York; to the
E., Brooklyn. The view by night is very striking.
Three other bridges over the East River have recently been con-
structed or begun; but these may be all described more briefly, as, though
worthy rivals of the Brooklyn Bridge as feats of engineering and for local
traffic, they are of much less practical importance for the tourist. — The
first of these, known as the Williamsburg Bridge (PI. C, 4, 5), was con-
structed in 1896-1904, at a cost of about $ 11,000,000. It combines the
suspension and cantilever principles and has almost the same span (1600 ft.)
between towers as the Brooklyn Bridge. It is 118 ft. wide and 135 ft. above
the water-level (at the centre), and has an extreme length, including
approaches, of 7200 ft. (IV4 M.). It accommodates two railway-tracks, four
tramway-lines, two roadways, two cycle-paths, and two footpaths. The
towers, 333 ft. high, are of steel (like the rest of the bridge) and rest
each on two piers. The bridge connects Delancey St., New York, with
Williamsburg (Brooklyn), on Long Island. At the "WUliamsburg end of the
bridge is an equestrian statue in bronze, bv H. M. Shradv, of Washington
at Valley Forge (comp. p. 186). — The Manhattan Bridge (PI. C, B, A, 4, 5),
begun in 1901 and probably to be finished in 1910, crosses from Canal St.,
New York, to Washington St., Brooklyn (comp. Plan at p. 75). It is also
a steel suspension bridge, with a total length of 9900 ft. (nearly 2 M.)
and a main span of 1470 ft. In height and width it resembles the Williams-
burg Bridge. It will bear eight railway-tracks besides roadways and foot-
Broadway. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 41
paths. Its estimated cost is $ 20,000,000. — The Blackwell's Island Bridge
(PI. 1, 4, 5), also begun in 1901 and completed in 1908, is a cantilever bridge
supported by six piers, two on each side of the river and two on Blackwell's
Island (p. 71). Its total length is 7450 ft. (nearly IV2 M.), and the channel-
spans are respectively 1182 ft. and 984 ft. in width. It will bear six rail-
road-tracks, two roadways, and two footpaths. The cost of this bridge
was about $ 20,000,000. — A huge railway bridge is also in course of con-
struction at RandalVs Island (p. 71 5 PI. N, O, 5), to connect the Penna.
R. R. terminals at Long Island City (comp. p. 78) with the main line of
the N. Y. N. H. & H. R. R.
, The most prominent structures in tlie part of Broadway skirting
City Hall Park are the Postal Telegraph Building and the Home Life
Insurance Co. (Pi. B 3, I; No. 256), the latter a 16-story edifice of
white maxhle, with a high-pitched, red-tiled roof. At No. 261 Broad-
way is the Bureau of Municipal Research (sec, Dr. W. H. Allen),
organized in 1906 to cooperate with public officials in the promotion
of efficient and economical government, and already doing much
interesting and effective work. — The section of Broadway ahove
the City Hall Park contains numerous railway-offices and wholesale
warehouses of 'dry goods' (i.e. haberdashery, drapery, etc.). At the
corner of Chambers St., to the right, is a large marble building
erected for the mammoth firm of drapers, A. T. Stewart ^ Co. (PI.
B, 3; i), but now occupied by offices. To the left is the Chemical
National BanJc (No. 270), which, with a capital of but $ 3,000,000
(600,000Z.), holds $ 39,000,000 (7,800, OOOZ.) on deposit and has a
surplus of $ 5,600,000. At No. 346 Broadway rises the New York
Life Insurance Office (PI. C 3, /; view from tower).
Two blocks to the right (E.) of this point, between Elm St. and Centre
St., is the building known as the Tombs (PI. C 3, /; shown by permit
from the Department of Correction, 148 E. 2()th St.), the city prison of
New York. The original granite building, in a heavy but effective Egyp-
tian style, has been taken down, and a new and more commodious
structure has been erected in its place (1898-99). A flying bridge connects
the prison with the Criminal Courts (PI. C,3-,7), a large building to the N.,
with good mural paintings by E. S. Simmons and others. Adjoining the
latter is a Fire /Station.
Farther up Broadway the predominant warehouses are those of
clothiers and furriers. The principal cross-streets are Canal Street
(once the bed of a stream crossing the Island), Grand Street (see
p. 25), and Houston Street.
On the S. side of Bleecker Street, which runs to the left (W.) from
Broadway, just above Houston St., is the Mills House No. 1 (PL h; D, 3),
a 'philanthropic' hotel (architect, E. Flagg), somewhat similar in plan
tothe structures erected by Lord Rowton (d. 1903) in London. Visitors
will find it interesting to inspect the large covered courts, wash-rooms,
laundry, restaurant, etc. It contains 1500 bedrooms (20 c. per night). A
companion building (Mills House No. 2) stands at the corner of Rivington
and Clinton Sts. (PL D, 4), and No. 5, of a somewhat superior character,
with 1876 bedrooms, was erected at the corner of Seventh Ave. and
36th St. in 1907. Near No. 2, at the corner of Rivington and Eldridge
Sts., is the building of the University Settlement Society, with public halls,
club-rooms, a circulating library, and a roof-garden. [Similar colonies
are the College Settlement in Rivington St. (PL D, 4), and the East Side House
Settlement at the foot of E. 76th St. (PL K, 5).]
To the right, opposite No. 745 Broadway, opens the wide Astor Place
3*
42 Route 2. NEW YORK.
(PI. D, 3), with tlie handsome building of the Mercantile Library (p. 25),
completed in 1891. The library occupies the site of the old opera-house, in
front of which, in 1849, took place the famous riot between the par-
tizans of the actors Forest and Macready. It contains a large and hand-
some reading-room and possesses 260,000 volumes. — In Lafayette Street^
which runs to the S. from Aator Place, is the *Astor Library (PI. D, 3;
adm., see p. 29), a large red structure with wings, containing about
600,000 volumes. It was originally founded in 1848 by John Jacob Astor,
whose sons and grandsons added largelv to his gift, the united benefactions
of the family amounting to about $ 1,700,000 (340,000 1.). The Astor Library
now forms one of the two reference branches of the N. Y. Public Library
(see p. 47), which are used by about 200,000 readers annually. — Lafayetle
St. also contains the famous De Vinne Press, which produces some of the
most artistic typography of America.
At the junction of Astor Place and Third Avenue stands the Cooper
Institute or Union (PL D^ 3), a large building of brown sandstone,
founded and endowed in 185^ by Peter Cooper, a wealthy and philanthropic
citizen, at a total cost of nearly S 1,000,000 (200.000 Z.). It contains a fine
free library and reading-room, free schools of science and art (attended by
3500 students), and a large lecture-hall. The average daily number of
readers is about 2000. The Sunday-evening lectures are attended by huge
crowds. People's Symphony Concerts, at low prices, are a successful
feature of the work. The Cooper Union also contains the Museum for the
Arts of Decoration (adm., see p. 28). In front of the Cooper Union is a
"Statue of Peter Cooper (1791-1888; p. 78), by Aug. Saint-Gaudens (pedestal
and canopy by Stanford White). — Opposite to the Cooper Union is the
Bible House (PL D, E, 3), the headquarters of the American Bible Society^
which has published and distributed 66,000,000 copies of the Bible or parts
of it, in upwards of 240 different languages and dialects.
Beyond Astor Place Broadway passes (right) the large bnilding
occnpled by John Wanamdker (p. 25), but originally erected for A.
T. Stewart & Co. With its new annexes, it claims to be 'the largest
departmental store in the world'. It has a direct entrance from the
Astor Place Subway Station (p. 17). Broadway now inclines to the
left. At the bendf rises *Grace Church (PL E, 3; Epis.), which,
with the adjoining rectory, chantry, and chnrch-honse, forms, per-
haps, the most attractive ecclesiastical group in New York. The
present church, which is of white limestone and has a lofty marble
spire, was erected in 1843-46 from the designs of James Renwick,
Jun. The interior is well-proportioned (open daily, 9-5; good
musical services), and all the windows contain stained glass. Behind
the church, facing Fourth Ave., is the Grace Memorial Home ^ a day
nursery for children. — At 14th St. Broadway reaches *Xrnion
Square (Pl.E, 3 ; //), which is beautified with pleasure grounds, sta-
tues, and an ornamental fountain. At the corner of E. 16th St. is
the massive office-building of the Bank of the Metropolis. Near the
S.E. corner is a good Equestrian Statue of Washington, by H. K.
Brown; in the centre of the S. side is a bronze Statue of Lafayette,
by Bartholdi ; in the S.W. corner is a Statue of Abraham Lincoln
(1865), by H.K.Brown; and on the W. side is the James Founia in,
by Donndorf. Henry George died on Oct. 29th, 1897, in the Union
•{■ This bend is said to have originated in the successfa attempt of
Hendrik Brevoort, a Dutch tavern-keeper, to prevent the street being so
laid out as to destroy a fine old tree that stood in front of his inn.
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Broadway. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 43
Square Hotel, on the E. side of the square (tablet), while engaged
in a campaign for the mayoralty of New York. The pavement on
the S. side of Union Sq., between Broadway and Fourth Avenue,
used to be known as the 'Rialto', as the resort of actors in search
of engagements, but the term is now applied to a part of Broads
way to the N., between 23rd St. and 42nd St.
FouKTEENTH Stkeet, wMch Broadway intersects at Union Sq., is one
of the chief arteries of cross-town traffic (tramway) , and the part to the
W. of Broadway contains some of the busiest shops in the city. To the
E., between Union Sq. and Third Avenue, are Steinway Hall (no longer
used for concerts), %la.Q, Academy of Music (PL E3,//; p. 20), and Tammany
Hall (PI. E 3, //; 1867), the seat of the Tammany Society, which was es-
tablished in 1789 for benevolent purposes, but soon developed into a strong
political (Democratic) institution and is now the centre of the party of
local politicians named after the building. The name is a corruption of
that of Tamenund, a famous Indian seer (see 'The Last of the Mohicans',
by Fenimore Cooper., chap. 28), and the officers of the society bear the
Indian titles of sachems and the like. Its 'totem' or emblem is the tiger. —
On the F. side of 14th St., to the W. of Sixth Avenue, is the Armoury
of the Ninth, Regiment (PI. E, 2; //),
Broadway between Union Sq. and Madison Sq. (see below) is
one of the chief shopping-resorts of New York, containing many
fine stores for the sale of furniture, 'dry goods', etc. At 23rd St. it
intersects Fifth Avenue (p. 45) and at the point of intersection
stands the daring *Fuller Building, generally known as the 'Flat-
iron Building' (PI. F, 3 ; II) on account of its strange triangular shape.
It is 290 ft. high, has 20 stories, and cost (including site) $4,000,000.
Seen from the N., as we look down Fifth Avenue, this building
resembles the prow of a gigantic ship under way and is very im-
pressive. The architects were B. H. Burriham ^ Co., of Chicago.
This building has a curious effect in increasing the violence of the
wind at its apex, so that, during a storm, people are sometimes whirled
oflF the side-walk and plate-glass shop-windows shivered.
Broadway now skirts the W. side of *Madison Square (PI. F,
3; II), a prettily laid out public garden, containing ahronze* Statue
of Admiral Farragut(iS0i-10\ by Saint-Gaudens(N.W. corner), an
obelisk to the memory of General Worth (1794-1849; W. side), a
Statue ofBoscoe ConfeZin^ (1829-88), by J. Q.A.Ward (S.E. corner), a
statue of President Arthur (1830-86), by G. E. Bissell (N.E. corner),
and a Statue of William H. Seward (1801-72), by Randolph Rogers
(S.W. angle). The statue of Farragut is among the finest in New
York, and the imaginative treatment of the pedestal is very beauti-
ful. On the W. side of the square are the new Fifth Avenue Build-
ing and the Hoffman House (p. 12).
On the E. side (cor. of 25th St.) is the new *Appellate Court
House (PI. F, 3; II), a handsome building by J. B. Lord, perhaps
somewhat overloaded with plastic ornamentation.
On the balustrade at the top are ten statues of the Great Lawgivers.
The central group facing Madison Ave. represents Peace (by Karl Bitter),
while the corresponding group towards 25th St. represents Justice (by
p. G.French). The bas-relief in the pediment (Law vanquishing Anarchy)
is by Niehaus. The seated figures of Wisdom and Force, at the entrance,
44 Route 2. NEW YORK. Broadway.
are by Ruckstuhl. The ottier sculptures include figures of the Periods of
the Day and of the Seasons. — The Interior is also elaborately adorned with
marble, gilding, oaken panelling, and mural paintings. The f^ie^es in the
Entrance Hall are by Metcalf (left), ilowbvay (centre), and Reid (right).
The panels in the Court Eoom are by Simmons (left), H. 0. Walker (ceatre),
and j5Za«MeW (right); the friezes are hj Kenyan Cox, Lauber. a.nd. Maynard.
On tlie E. side of tlie square, between 23rd and 24th Sts., is the
enormous building of the Metropolitan Life Insurance Co. (PI. F,
3; J/), the tower of which has 50 stories and reaches a height of
693 ft. (726 ft. from the cellar floor; Washington Monument 555 ft.,
towers of Cologne Cathedral 511 ft.). Two of the elevators run to
a height of 544 ft. (*Yiew). Adjacent is the Madison Sq. Presbyterian
Church, with its massive dome (Rev. Dr. Parkhurst). At the S.E. comer
of 26th St. stands the Manhattan Club (p. 24), and at theN.E. corner
is the huge Madison Square Garden (PL F 3, //; see p. 53).
Twentx-Thikd Street, to the W. of Broadway, is one of the chief
shopping-resorts of Xew York, and its wide side-pavements are generally
crowded with purchasers. Perhaps the most notable shop is the large and
fashionable ''dry goods' store of Sfern Brothers (No. 32). At the corner of
Sixth Avenue (p. 54) is the imposing Masonic Temple (PI. F,2;//), containing
a hall to seat 1200 persons. A large addition is going up in 24th St.
Between Seventh and Eighth Avenues are the F. M. C. A. (^ee below; iS. side)
and the lofty Chelsea Hotel (p 12; S. side), and at the corner of the latter
avenue is the Grand Opera House (PI. F 2, //; pp. 21, 54). To the E. of Madi-
son Sq. Twenty-Third St. runs down to the E. River.
The substantial building of the Young Men's Christian Association
(Pl.F, 2; //), 215 W. 23rd St , was erected in 1903 at a cost, including site,
of S 750,IHX). The Young Men's Christian Association of the City of 'Sew
York, organized in 1S52 and incorporated in 1^66, aims at the spiritual,
mental, social, and physical improvement of young men by the support
and maintenance of lectures, libraries, reading-rooms, social and religious
meetings, evening-elapses, gymnasiums, and athletic grounds, and by pro-
viding attractive places of safe evening resort. In addition to the above-
mentioned structure the Association owns fifteen other buildings valued
at nearly $2 000,000, including 'he large West Side Branch in W. 57th St.
with the" .Association Library (50,000 vols.), and it also has the use of the
Railroad Men"s Bu'lding, erected by the late Mr. Cornelius Vanderbilt at a
cost of about S 225,000, of three other buildings for railway men, and of
Earl Hall (p. 67), erected for the students of Columbia University by Wm.
E. Dodge (1805-83) nt a cost of $ 1T5,(X)0. The work is carried on at thirty
different points. The aggregate attendance at the rooms is about 2,000,000
a year, and strangers are always welcome as visitors The average mem-
bership is 16.000; the annual expenses are nearly $400,000, less than one
quarter of which is met by membership fees. — The aggregate membership
of the Y. M. C. A. in the United States and Canada is about 4i0,000.
Between Madison Square and 42nd St. Broadway passes numerous
theatres, which follow each other in rapid succession (see p. 20).
In the same part of Broadway are many large and fine hotels. At
34th St. Broadway crosses Sixth Avenue , passing under the Ele-
vated Railroad. The small open space here, with statues of Horace
Greeley (p. 39) and Wm. E. Dodge (see above), is known as Herald
SauABB. On the N. is the two-storied concrete building of the New
York Herald (PL G, 2; //), in the basement of which the powerful
Hoe printing-presses are seen at work. To the W., at the comer of
34th St., is Macy^s Departmental Store (p. 25). an enormous build-
ing, with a large restaurant on the top floor. The new Pennsylvania
Fifth Avenue. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 45
R.R. Station (p. 54) lies one block to the W. The Metropolitan
Opera House (PI. G 2, 7J; p. 20), opened in 1883 and rebuilt ten
years later, after a lire, stands between 39tb St. and 40tli St. [The
haU of the Mendelssohn Glee Club in 40th St., just to the W. of
Broadway, contains some good mural paintings by Robert Blum
(shown on application to the care-taker).] At the comer of 42nd St.
stands the large Knickerbocker Hotel (p. 12). Seventh Ave. is
crossed at 43rd St., and the space at the point of intersection, from
which several old buildings have been removed, is known as Times
Sauabe (or Longacre Square), the centre of club- and theatre-land.
In the middle stands the building of the New York Times (PI. G,2 ; II),
sometimes known as the 'Andiron' (comp.p.43; architects, Eidlitz &
Mackenzie). The tower (26 stories) is 363 ft. high. The outside
walls are of pink granite and terracotta, and the interior is finely
fitted up. Beneath it is a station of the New York Subway (p. 17).
On the corner of 44th St. rises the huge Astor House (p. 12).
Beyond Times Square Broadway is rather uninteresting, but
there are some lofty specimens of apartment-houses or French flats
farther up. From 45th St. on Broadway is largely occupied by auto-
mobile stores and garages. At the corner of 56th St. is the new
Broadway Tabernacle (Congregational; PI. H2, //), and at No. 1634
(r.) is the American Horse Exchange, the Tattersall's of New York.
At 59th St. Broadway reaches the S.W. corner of Central Park (p. 55)
and intersects Eighth Avenue. At the intersection, the so-called
CiBCLE, stands the Columbus Monument (PI. I, 2; //), by Gaetano
Russo, erected in 1892 (the 400th anniversary of the discovery of
America) and consisting of a tall shaft surmounted by a marble statue
(in all, 77 ft. high). [In 59th St., close to the Circle, is the pretty
little Bank of Discount.] At 71st St. (r.) is the curious low Church
of the Blessed Sacrament (PI. K, 1; R. C; Rev. Matthew A. Taylor).
By the 72nd St. Station of the Subway (PL K, 2) is a Statue of
Verdi (1813-1901), the composer, by Pasquale Civiletti. Between
73rd and 74th Sts. (1.) is the elaborate Ansonia Apartment Hotel
(PI. K, 1), and at the corner of 78th St., also to the left, is The
Apthorp (PI. K, 1), an enormous new apartment house. Beyond this
point Broadway, now a wide street with rows of trees, is usually
known as the Boulevard. From 108th St. to 162nd St. it coincides
with Eleventh Avenue. At 116Lh St. it passes Columbia University
(see p. 66). From 162nd St. Broadway (Kingsbridge Road) runs on to
Yonkers (p. 86).
*Fiftli Avenue [PL D-P, 3), the chief street in New York from
the standpoint of wealth and fashion, begins dX Washington Square
(p. 46), to the N. of West 4th St. and a little to the W. of Broad-
way, and runs N. to the Harlem River (p. 70), a distance of 6 M.
Below 47th St. the avenue has now been largely invaded by shops,
tall office-buildings, ^nd hotels, and even between 47th St. and
46 BouU 2. NEW YORK. Fifth Avenue.
Central Park (59tli St.) there are many clubs and hotels. Beyond
59th St., however, it consists of handsome private residences, form-
ing, perhaps, as imposing a show of affluence and comfort as is to
he seen in any street in the world. The avenue has been kept
sacred from the marring touch of the tramway or the elevated rail-
road, but it is traversed by a line of motor omnibuses (p. 18).
The avenue is wide and well-paved ; many of the buildings are of
brown sandstone, thus giving parts of it a somewhat monotonous
air. On a fine afternoon Fifth Avenue is alive with carriages and
horsemen on their way to and from Central Park (comp. p. 55),
and it is, perhaps, seen at its best on a fine Sunday, when the
churches are emptying.
"Washington Square (PI. D , 3) , pleasantly laid out on the site of an
old burial-ground, contains a bronze Statue of Garibaldi (1807-82), by
Turini. The tasteful Gothic building of JVew Tori University, erected on
the E. side of this square in 1832-35, was demolished in 1894-95, and a
large office-building was erected on its site, of which the upper floors
only are reserved for academic purposes. Here are located the Law
School, the Graduate School, the School of Commerce and Finance, and
the School of Pedagogy, the last interesting as the first school of pedagogy
in any university to be organized on an equal footing with the other
faculties. [The main buildings of the University are now at University
Heights (p. 73), easily reached by subway to 181st St. and by trolley; the
medical department is in E. 26th St.] On the S. side of the square are the
Judson Memorial Buildings^ including a Baptist church. On the N. side is
a row of substantial old-time residences, which still retain an air of un-
deniable respectability and present, perhaps, the most satisfying specimen
of domestic architecture in the city. The Washington Centennial Memorial
Archi by Stanford White, spans the S. entrance of Fifth Ave. — University
Place, skirting Washington Sq. on the E., runs to Union Sq. (p. 42).
Following Fifth Avenue to the N. from Washington Sq., we pass
several substantial old residences and the Lafayette-Brevoort House
(p. 12; cor. of 8th St.). At the corner of 10th St. is the Episcopal
*Church of the Ascension, with a large mural painting of the Ascension
by La Farge (his masterpiece), fine stained-glass windows (by La
Farge, Tiffany, and others), and other good works of art (printed
description obtained from sexton). Between 11th and 12th Sts. is
the First Presbyterian Church. Both churches are of brown stone,
with square towers. In crossing the busy 14th St. (p. 42) we see
Union Sq. (p. 42) to the right. At 16th St. is the Judge Building.
In 15th St., a little to the W. of Fifth Avenue, is the large building of
the New York Hospital (PL E,"3; //); to the E. is the Young Women^s Chris-
tian Association, in the rear of which (entr. in 16th St.) is the Margaret
Louisa Home (p. 12). In 16th St., but extending back to 15th St., are the
ornate Church and College of St. Francis Xavier (PI. E, 2, 3; //), the Amer-
ican headquarters of the Jesuits (TOD pupils).
At the right corner of 18th St. is the substantial Constable
Building, with its marble-lined interior. At the S.W. corner of
20th St. (1.) is the Methodist Book Concern (PL E,3;//), one of the
largest bookhouses in the world ; and at the N.W. corner is the so-
called * Presbyterian Building (PI. F, 3: //), a dignified office struc-
ture by J. B. Baker. This section of Fifth Ave. is the district -par ex-
Fifth Avenue. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 47
cellence of the pnblisliers and booksellers and contains several of the
shops mentioned at p. 25. At 23Td St. (p. 44) the Avenue intersects
Broadway and skirts Madison Sq. (see p. 43). To the right is the
curions Flat-iron Building (p. 43). At 26th St. is the Cafe Martin
(p. 14). At the corner of 29th St. is the Marble Collegiate Church
(PL F 3, //; good music; vocal quartette), opposite which is the Ca-
lumet Club (No. 267). In 29th St., a little to the E., is the odd-look-
ing Church of the Transfiguration (PI. F, 3 ; 77), popularly known as
the 'Little Church round the Corner' + and containing a memorial
window (by La Farge) to Edwin Booth, the actor (1833-93). At the
S."W. comer of 30th St. is the handsome Holland House (p. 12).
The Knickerbocker Club (p. 24) stands at the corner of 32nd St. (r.).
The whole block between 33rd and 34th Sts., to the left, is occupied
by the *Waldorf-Astoria Hotel (p. 12), a huge double-building of
red brick and sandstone in a German Renaissance style. The restau-
rants and other large halls in the interior are freely adorned with
mural paintings by American artists, among the best of which is
the ceiling (by Blashfield') of the somewhat over-decorated ball-
room in the Astoria. — At the corner of 34th St. is the large
building of the Knickerbocker Trust Co,., opposite which is the
spacious store of B. Altman (p. 25). At 35th St. (left) is the Neiv
York Club (p. 24), at 36th St. (L) is the Gorham Building, with its
projecting copper cornice, at 37th St. (S.E.) is the Tiffany Build-
ing (PI. G 3, 77; by McKim, Mead, & White ; with the premises of the
famous jeweller and goldsmith, and at 38th St. is the tall Sitbrecht
Building. No. 400 (1.) was the home of Col. Ingersoll (1833-99).
The Union League Club (p. 24), the chief Republican club of New
York, is a handsome and substantial building at the corner of
39th St. (1880 members).
Between 40th St. and 42nd St., to the left, on the site of the
old reservoir of the Croton Aqueduct, stands the *NewYork Public
Library (PL G, 3; 77), a very dignified and imposing structure of
white marble, designed by Messrs. Carrere^ Hastings. The building,
which was begun in 1902 and will be opened for use in 1911, is
Renaissance in style, based upon classic principles but modern in
character. It is 390 ft. long, 270 ft. deep, and 60-90 ft. high, and
encloses two courts, each 80 ft. square. The rear elevation is in
some ways more satisfactory than the facade, where the effect of
the columns is impaired by the heavy horizontal lines. The main
reading-room will seat 700-800 readers. Director, Dr. John S.Billings.
The New York Public Libeaky was formed in 1895 by the consolida-
tion of the Lenox and Astor Libraries and the Tilden Trust, the last con-
sisting of about S 2,000,000, bequeathed by Samuel J. Tilden in 1886 with
Ms library of 20,000 volumes. In 1901 the New York Free Circulating Library,
with its 11 distributing centres, was added as the beginning of a circulating
t So named because of the refusal of the rector of a neighbouring
church to officiate at the funeral of Stoddard, the actor, and his reference
of the applicant to the 'Uttle church round the corner'.
48 Route 2. NEW YORK. Fiftti Avenue.
department, and 9 other circulating libraries have since been absorbed.
In 1901 also Mr. Andrew Carnegie offered a sum of $ 5,200,000 for the con-
struction and equipment of free circulating libraries on condition that the
City provide the sites and maintain them when bnilt. The Lenox and
Astor Libraries, forming the reference department, are still housed in
their respective buildings (pp. 50,41). This department contains 725,000 vols,
and 3'30,000 pamphlets, and these are consulted at the rate of 900,000 vols,
per year.
A little to theE. of this point, in 42nd St., is the Orand Central
Station (pp. 10, 52). At the S.E. corner of 42nd St. rises the tastefnl
Columbia Bank. The Temple Emanu-El (PI. G, 3 ; 11), or chief syna-
gogue of New York, at the comer of 43rd St., is a fine specimen of
Moorish architecture, with a richly decorated interior.
In W. 43ed Stkket, between Fifth and Sixth Avenues, to the right
(N.), is the Century Club (PI. G 3, 77; p. 24; a Renaissance structure, with
a loggia in the second, story and ornamental iron-work over some of the
windows. Adjoining the Century Club is the Ifew Tork Academy of Medicine
(PI. G, 3; 77), with a front of reddish-brown stone, in a semi-Egyptian style.
Beyond this are the extensive quarters of the Racquet Club (p. 23). On the
opi>osite side of the street is The Renaissance., a hanisome and select apart-
ment-house.
At the N.E. corner of 44th St. is Delmonico's Restaurant (p. 14),
a substantial building with elaborate ornamention ; and at the S.W.
corner is Sherry's (p. 14), a rival establishment, equally patronized
by the fashionable world (fine ball-room).
West 44th Street, between Fifth Avenue and Broadway, contains
several buildings of note. These include, on the right, the St. Nicholas Club
(p. 24; No. 7), the Brearley School for Gh-ls (17) the American Institute
(Berkeley Lyceum; 19-23), the Harvard Club (p. 24; 27), the New York
Yacht Club (p. 23; IS^o. 37; perhaps the most luxurious yacht-club in the
world, but with a curious 'freak' of a facade), the Hudson Theatre (p. 21),
and the Criterion Theatre (p. 21); on the left, Sherry'^s (see above), the
Mechanics' Institute (p. 25; 16-24) the Yale Club (p. 24; 30), the Bar Asso-
ciation Library (42), and the University of Peivnsylvania Club (44). In the
Mechanics'' Institute ('General Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen of the
City of New York") is the very interesting Mobsman Collection of Locks dt
Keys (open free on week-days, 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.).
Between 4oth St. and 46th St. (r.) is the elaborately decorated
Church of the Heavenly Rest (PI. G, H, 3; II). Between 46th St.
and 47th St., to the right, is the Windsor Arcade. At the N.E.
corner of 47th St. is the house of Miss Helen Gould, daughter of Mr.
Jay Gould. The Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas (Dutch Reformed;
PI. H 3, //), at the corner of 48th St., is one of the handsomest
and most elaborately adorned ecclesiastical edifices in the city. It
is in the 14th cent, or Decorated Gothic style and has a crocketed
spire, 270 ft. high. Just below 50th St., on the right, is the De-
mocratic Club (p. 24), the stronghold of Tammany (p. 43).
Between 50th and 51st Sts., to the right, stands *St. Patrick's
Cathedral (R.C. ; PL H 3, //), an extensive building of white marble,
in the Decorated Gothic style, and the most important ecclesiastical
edifice in the United States. It is 400 ft. long, 125 ft. wide, and 112 ft.
high; the transept is 180 ft. across, and the two beautiful spires are
332 ft. high. The building, which was designed bv James Renwick,
was erected in 1850-79, at a cost of $ 3,500,000 (700,000i.).
Fifth Avenue. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 49
The Intebiok, which seems a little short in proportion to its height,
is dignified and imposing, and the fact that all the windows are filled with
good modern stained glass adds to the efi'ect. The Transepts are shallow.
The massive white marhle columns supporting the roof are 35ft. high.
The altars and church - furniture are very elaborate. The Lady Chapel^
abutting on Madison Ave., was added in 1903-7. — The centenary of the
Eoman Catholic bishopric of New York was celebrated in 1908.
Adjoining the cathedral, to the right, is the handsome Union
Club (p. 24). Between 51st and 52nd Sts. (PI. H, 3; Ji), to the left,
are the two handsome hrownstone mansions, huilt by the late Mr.
W. H. Vanderbilt (d. 1885), and now occupied by Mr. H. C. Frick
and Mr. W. D. Sloane. They are nnited by a connecting passage
and adorned with exquisite bands and plaques of carving, which,
however, are scarcely seen well enough to be properly appreciated.
The railings which surround them are a fine specimen of metal
work. The Indiana-stone house above these, at the corner of 52nd St.,
in a more varied and striking style, is the ^Residence of Mr. W. K.
Vanderbilt (PI. H, 3 ; II), by R. M. Hunt (p. 51). It resembles a French
chateau of the transitional period (15 -16th cent.). The carving
on the doorway and window above it almost challenges comparison
with the finest work of the kind in European churches. The ad-
joining house is that of Mr. W. K. Vanderbilt^ Jr.., and at the N.E.
corner of 56th St. is that of Mr. A. 0. Vanderbilt. At the N.W.
corner of 57th St. is the house of Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt., by
George B. Post, a red brick edifice with grey facings in the French
chateau style of the 16-17th cent., with a huge ball-room.
St. Thomas's Church (Epis. ; PI. H 3, //), at 63rd St., was burned
in 1905 and is being rebuilt; two paintings by La Farge and an
altar-piece by Saint-Gaudens were destroyed in the fire. To the
left, at the corner of 54th St., is the University Club (adorned with
carvings of the seals of eighteen American colleges), by McKim,
Mead, & White. The library contains admirable mural paintings by
Mr. H. S. Mowbray, adapted from Pinturicchio's work in the Borgia
apartments of the Vatican. [At No. 4 W. 54th St. is the New York
home of Mr. John D. Rockefeller.'] At the corner of 55th St. are the
St. Regis Hotel (p. 12; r.) and the Gotham Hotel (p. 12; 1.). The
Fifth Avenue Presbyterian Church (PI. H 3, 77; N.W. cor.) has one
of the loftiest spires in the city.
Fifty-Seventh St., both to the E, and W. of Fifth Avenue, contains
several very striking facades, which the student of modern domestic archi-
tecture should not fail to see. Other interesting windows , porches, and
gables may be seen in 34th, 36th, 37th, and other streets near Fifth
Avenue.
At 59th St. (PI. I, 3; //), where Fifth Avenue reaches Central
Park (p. 65), are three huge hotels: the New Plaza (p. 12; 1.), the
Savoy Ip. 12; r.), and the Netherland (p. 12; r.). In the middle
of the 'Plaza' rises a bronze-gilt equestrian *Statue of General
Sherman (1820-91 ; see pp. 571, 609), by Aug. Saint-Gaudens (1903 ;
a figure of 'danntless refinement', says Mr. Henry James).
50 RouU2, NEW YORK. Fifth Avenue.
In 59th Street^ facing Central Park, are the De la Salle Institute, the
Deutsche!' Verein (German Club; PI. I 2,//), the Catholic Club, and the
Navarro or Central Park Apartment Houses, named after Spanish cities.
Between 59tli and llOth Sts. Fifth Avenue skirts tlie E. side
of Central Park, having buildings on one side only. Among these,
many of which are very handsome, are the Metropolitan Club (^1. I,
3), at the corner of 60th St.; the Gerry House, cor. of 61st St.; the
twin white houses of Mr. John Jacoh Astor and Mrs. Wm. Astor^ Sen.,
N.E. corner of 65th St. ; the Havemeyer House, corner of 66th St. ;
the Yerkes House, with its fine pictnre-gallery (p. 221, S.E. corner
of 68th St.; the Synagogue Beth-El (PL K, 3), corner of 76th St.;
the Brokaw House^ corner of 79th St. ; the Phipps House, corner of
88th St. ; the House of Mr. Andrew Carnegie, with its garden, at
the corner of 91st St.; and the Mt. Sinai Hospital (PI. M, 3), be-
tween 100th and 101st Sts.
Between 70th and 71st Sts. is the *Lenox Library (PL I, K, 3),
bnilt and endowed by Mr. James Lenox (1800-1880), who also pre-
sented the ground on which it stands and most of its contents,
The building, erected in 1870-77, is of light-coloured limestone,
with projecting wings. Adm., see p. 29.
The Library proper consists of about 125,000 volumes. It is rich in
American history (including the library of George Bancroft, the historian ;
comp, p. 240). musical works (largely bequeathed by Mr. J. W. Drexel),
Bibles, and Shakspeariana. It is a free reference-library, now forming
part of the New York Public Library; and its contents will eventually be
removed to tha new baildiag (p. 47).
The Vestibule and Central Hall (groundfloor) contain, under glass, col-
lections of books and MSS. belonging to the library and frequently changed.
Among the chief treasures are 15 Block Books; the Mazarin Bible (Guten-
berg & Fust, ca. 1455; prob. the first book printed with movable types);
CoverdaWs Bible (1535); TyndaWs Pentateuch (1530) and New Testament
(1536); ElioCs Indian Bible; first editions of most English authors of im-
portance before the i3th century; two copies of the First Folio Shakspeare
(1623), and also copies of the Second, Third, and Fourth Folios (1632, 1663-64,
1685); eight works from the press of William Caxton (1475-90); the Bay Psalm
Book, the first book printed in the United States (Cambridge, 1640); the
Doctrina Christiana, printed in Mexico in 1544: a magnificent vellum MS.
lectionary of the Gospels, with illuminations and miniatures by Giulio
Clovio ; the original MS. of Washinglon's Farewell Address ; and various books,
MSS., and maps relating to the discovery of America. The vestibule also
contains most of the Sculptures belonging to the library, including works
by Hiram Powers (No. 14) and Gibson (15) and four ancient Roman busts.
The Picture Gallery, on the first floor, comprises works by A. de
Sarto, F. E. Church, A. Bierstadt, Sir David Wilkie, Constable, Morland,
Raeburn, Meissonier, Munkacsy, Reynolds, Verboeckhoven , Gilbert Stuart,
R. Peale, Landseer, Horace Vernet, Copley, Gainsborough, Turner, Zamacois,
etc. — The picture-gallery also contains works by Sir John Steel (Nos. 12, 13),
Gibson (15), and Barrias (8) and a few other sculptures.
The *Stuart Collections, bequeathed by Mrs. Robert L. Stuart (d. 1892),
along with a sum of 3 300,000, occupy a gallery over the N. wing. They
include a library of 10,0()0 vols, and 240 modern paintings, comprising
works by Girdme, Corot, Ro^a Bonheur, Troyon, Meissonier, Detaille, Bou-
guereau, Vibert, Diaz, Munkacsy, Brozik, Clays, Koekloek, Verboeckhoven, Knaus,
Meyer von Bremen, Cropsey, Kensett, Church, Cole, Inness, J. A. Walker, etc.
The mezzanine floor is devoted to the large and valuable collections
of Prints and MSS. The MSS. include the Emm^tt Collection of MSS.,
Fcurth Avenue. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 51
comprising atout lO.COO jiiSS. relating to American history (1750-1800); tlie
Bancroft MSS. ; the Eardwicke MSS. ; and the Spanish-American MSS. from
the Ternaux and Kingshorough Collections. The prints include the Samuel
P, Avery Collection (18,000 prints), consisting mainly of French and other
modern etchings and lithographs; a large collection of Modern American
Works; a representative collection of Japanese Colour Prints; and many
portraits, views, and historical prints arranged according to subjects.
Exhibitions are held regularly in the Print Galleries.
In Fifth Avenne, opposite the Lenox Library, is the Memorial
to B. M. Hunt (pp. 49, 58), the architect, designed by D. C. French.
It consists of a semicircular bench, recessed in the wall of Central
Park, with a bnst of Hunt and graceful female figures.
In Central Park, close to Fifth Ayenue at 82nd St., is the Me-
tropolitan Museum of Art (p. 58).
At 120th St. Fifth Avenue reaches Mount Mokeis Sqtjake (PL
0, 3), the mound in the centre of which commands good views , Be-
yond Mt. Morris Sq. the avenue is lined with handsome villas, some
of them surrounded by gardens. It ends, amid tenements and small
shops, at the Harlem River (140th St. 5 PL P, 3).
Fourth Avenue diverges from Third Avenue at the N. end of
the Bowery and at first runs N. towards Union Sq. (p. 42), passing
the Cooper Institute (p. 42) and the Bible House (p. 42). At Union
Sq. it turns N.E. At the corner of 17th St. (S.E.) is the house in
which William Lloyd Garrison (pp.258, 288) died (tablet), at 20th
St. (r.) is All Souls Unitarian Church (PI. E, 3; J/), and at 21st St.
is Calvary Church. The group of notable buildings at the intersection
of 22nd St. (PI. F, 3 5 II) includes the Church Mission House (S.E.),
the United Charities Building (N.E.; by Jas. B. Baker), the tasteful
Bank for Savings (S.W.), and the Fourth Ave. Presbyterian Church
(N.W.). The United Charities Building was presented by Mr. John
S. Kennedy to the Children's Aid Society (p. 39), the N.Y. City Mis-
sion & Tract Society, the Association for Improving the Condition
of the Poor, and the Charity Organization Society. At the N.W.
corner of 23rd St. is an ornate office-building, forming an expansion
of that of the Metropolitan Life Insurance Co. (p. 44). —At 27th St.,
to the left, extending back to Madison Avenue, is Madison Square
Garden (p. 53). To the right, at 33rd St., stands the huge Armoury
of the 71st Regiment (PI. F, G, 3; 77), National Guard of New York,
burned down in 1902 but sincere-erected; and to the left is the
Park Avenue Hotel (p. 13). At 34th St. Fourth Avenue assumes
the name of *Park Avenue. The Fourth Avenue tramway line is
here relegated to a subway below the street, and the ventilating
openings are surrounded with small gardens which give a cheerful
and pleasant air to the thoroughfare, here 140 ft. wide. Below the
tramway-subway is the tunnel of the New York Subway (p. 16), and
below that again is the tunnel constructed by the Pennsylvania
52 Route 2. NEW YORK. Park Avenue.
R. R. Co. across New York and counecting with tunnels under the
Hudson River (see p. 54) and the E. River. On the W. side of the
avenue stands the Unitarian * Church of the Messiah (34th St. ; PI. G
3, 77). At 40th St. is the Murray Hill Hotel (pp. 12, 13).
This part of Park Avenue traverses the aristocratic quarter of Murray
Hill, bounded by Third and Sixth Avenues, 32nd St., and 45th St. The
Murray Mansion, which gave name to the district, has disappeared; but
a tablet in the small garden (see p. 51) near 37tli St. commemorates its
mistress, Mrs. Lindley Murray.
At 42nd St. Park Avenue is interrupted by the Grand Central
Station (PI. G- 3, 77; p. 10), the main building of which, practically
rebuilt in 1900, occupies the whole area between the lines of Park
Avenue, Vanderbilt Avenue, 42nd St., and 45th St.
This enormous railway-station, constructed of steel, with grey stucco
facades, is nearly 700 ft. long and 240 ft. wide, and is covered with an
iron and glass roof, 110 ft. high, with a span of 200 ft. The above dimen-
sions are exclusive of an addition to the E, of the line of Park Avenue,
used by incoming trains. The large new waiting-hall is handsome and
most conveniently arranged. About 350 trains (1400 cars) arrive at and
leave the station daily. It contains 19 tracks, 12 for outgoing and 7 for
incoming trains, all now operated by electricity as far as High Bridge
(p. 70) and Mt. Vernon (p. 228).
For the next ten blocks or so Park Avenue, or what would other-
wise be Park Avenue , is occupied by the various lines of railway
issuing from the Grand Central Station, but at 49th St., the avenue
begins to re-assert itself, and higher up the railway burrows under-
neath through a series of tunnels. Above 57th St., where the
street is very wide, Park Avenue may claim to be one of the finest
thoroughfares of New York, and here, as lower down, the openings
of the tunnels are pleasantly hidden by small gardens. At the
corner of 59th St., to the right, rises the large yellow building of
the Ariorh (PI. I 3, 77; p. 24). Among the numerous lofty piles of
flats is the Yosemite, at the S.W. corner of 62nd St. Between 66th
and 67th Sts., to the right, is the large Armoury of the Seventh
Regiment (PI. I, 3), the fashionable regiment of New York. The
armoury is very finely fitted up ; the huge drill - hall is 300 ft.
long and 200 ft. wide. At the adjacent corner is the Hahnemann
Hospital. The Normal College (PI. I, 3), between 68th and 69th Sts.,
is a spacious building in an ecclesiastical Gothic style, with a lofty
square tower (2900 female pupils). To the left are the new Union
Theological Seminary (PI. 19; 0, 1) and (70th St.) the Presbyter-
ian Hospital, an effective building, extending back to Madison Ave.
(see p. 53). The *Freundschaft Cluh, at theS.E. corner of 72nd St.,
has an interior fitted up in a style worthy of its fine exterior. At
the corner of 77th St. is the German Hospital (PI. K, 3). Another
great * Armoury (8th Regiment; PI. L, 3) crowns the hill at 94th St.;
it is an enlarged copy of the Chateau of St. Andre at Villeneuve
(Avignon). The avenue reaches the Harlem River at 134th St., near
the bridge of the Hudson River Railway.
Lexington Avenue, beginning at GramercyPark (P1.E,F, 3;77)
Madison Avenue. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 53
and mnning N. to the Harlem River (131st St.) between Third and
Fonrth Avenues, also contains a number of large and important
buildings. Among these are the old building of the College of the
City of New York (PI. F, 3; IT), at the corner of 23rd St. (new building,
see p. 69) ; the Armoury of the 69th Regiment, at the corner of
25th St. ; the Hospital for Cripples (PI. G, 3 ; //), 42nd St. ; the Asso-
ciation for the Improved Instruction of Beaf-Mutes, at the corner of
67th St. ; the Eydriatic Institute, at the corner of 72nd St. ; and
the Synagogues at the corners of 5oth, 63rd, and 72nd Sts.
Between Fourth and Fifth Avenues, runs *Madison Avenue,
beginning at Madison Sq. (p. 43) and ending at 138th St. on the
Harlem River. Hitherto almost uninvaded by shops, it forms one
of the finest streets of private houses in New York, rivalling even
Fifth Avenue. At the beginning of the avenue, at the N.E. comer
of the square and occupying a whole block, is Madison Square
Garden (PI. F, 3; 71), a huge erection 425 ft. long and 200 ft. wide
(see p. 21). The building includes the Garden Theatre (p. 21).
The tower (adm., see p. 29) is a copy of the Giralda at Seville; at
the top is a figure of Diana, by Saint- Gaudens. At No. 219 Madison
Ave., cor. of W. 36th St., is the brown stone house of Mr. J. Pier-
pont Morgan (art-gallery, see p. 22), adjoined by his library, a well-
designed building in the Italian Renaissance style (good decorations
by H. Sid dons Mowbray), containing a priceless *Collection of books,
prints, and MSS. (admission by special introduction only). "(At No.
25 W. 39th St. is the United Engineering Building, PI. F 3, II.)
Madison Avenue crosses 42nd St. just above the Grand Central Station
(p. 52) and beyond this point is traversed by tramway-cars. At 44th St.
is the Church of St. Bartholomew (PI. G, 3; I/), in the Italian style,
with elaborate bronze doors presented by Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt,
and at 45th St. is the Railroad Branch of the 7. M. C. A, (p. 44).
At 50th St., at the back of St. Patrick's Cathedral (p. 48), is the
House of the Archbishop of New York (R. C). At 70th St. is the
Presbyterian Hospital (p. 52). At the N.W. corner of 72nd St. rises
the ^Tiffany House (PI. K, 3), by McKim, Mead, & White, a pictu-
resque edifice, containing an interesting collection of objects of art
(adm. only by private introduction).
The remaining avenues which traverse Manhattan Island from S. to 1^.
do not demand a detailed description. First, Second, and Third Avenues
consist mainly of tenement houses and small retail-shops, while the amenity
of the last two is not enhanced by the elevated railroads which follow
their course. In First Avenue, between 27th and 28th Sts., is the Medical
School of Cornell University (p. 145). Second Avenue is not joined hy the
railway till 23rd St. (see p. 16). At 13th St. is the Eye & Ear Infirmary (PI. E,
4 ; II). At E. 15th St. the avenue crosses Stuyvesant Pake (PL E, 4 ; //),
with the large Church of St. George (polychrome interior). This was long
the aristocratic centre for New Yorkers of Dutch descent. At 17th St. is
the Lying-in Hospital (PI, E, 4; //). — At the corner of Third Avenue and
lith St. is the Court for Juvenile Offenders, an interesting experiment
begun in 1902. About 8000 children pass through this court yearly.
[St. Mark's Church, in Stuyvesant Place, leading from E. iOth St. to
Aster Place, stands near the site of the 'Bowerie' or farm-house (comp.
54 Route 2. NEW YORK. Sixth Avenue.
p. 39) of Governor Stuyvesant (p. 32) and contains his toml)stone (E. wall ;
from an older chapel) and other old monuments. Governor StuyvtsanVs
Pear Tree., -wtiicli he planted in 1644 as a memorial 'by which his name
might still he remembered', stood for 200 years at the N.E. corner of Third
Ave. and 13th St. (memorial tablet).]
At the foot of E. 28th St. , a little to the E. of First Avenue , is the
extensive Bellevue Hospital (PI. F, 4; 7/); and in the same street, to the
W. of Third Avenne, is St. Stephen's (R.C.), containing some good paint-
ings and an elaborate altar-piece. — At the foot of 66th St. is the Rocle-
feller Institute for Medical Research (PI. I, 4), endowed by Mr. John D,
Rockefeller with $ 4,000,000 to promote discovery in medical science for
the alleviation of suffering in man and animals (Dr. Simon Flexner,
Scientific Director). It occupies part of the old Schermerhom farm.
Sixth Avenue, the route of a W. side elevated railway, begins at
Carmine St., to the S.W. of "Washington Square, and ends at Central Park
(59th St.). It is one of the chief seats of retail trade in New York, con-
taining several of the largest 'dry goods' and other shops, among them the
enormous premises of the Siegel-Cooper Co. (PI. E 2, II\ between 18th and
19th Sts.). Its prolongation beyond the park is known as Lmox Avenue.
Among the chief buildings it passes are the Jefferson Market Police Court
(seat of the 'Night Court', open from 9 p.m. to 3 a.m.), at 10th St., the
Greenwich Savings Bank, at 16tti St., and the Masonic Temple, cor. of 23rd St. ■
(p. 44). At the S.E. corner of 28rd St. is a tablet to Mwin Booth (p. 24),
marking the site of his theatre. Statue of Horace Greeley, at the inter-
section of Broadway, see p. 44. At 41st St. the avenue skirts the pretty
little Bryant Park (PI. G, 3 •, II), with a statue of Br. J. Marion Sims (1813-83)
and a colossal bust of Washington Irving (p. 33). W. 53rd St., between
Sixth and Ninth Avenues, may be described as the Negro Bohemia of New
York, containing various clubs and restaurants.
The lower part of Seventh Avenue calls for no special mention. In
the block enclosed by Seventh and Eighth Avenues, 31st St., and 33rd St., is
situated the enormous new Pennsylvania Railroad Station (PI. F, G, 2; //),
a rectangle measuring 780 ft. by 430 ft. Architects, McKim, Mead, & White.
The main entrance is in Seventh Avenue. The railway tracks are 40 ft.
beneath the street-level and much of the station is also below ground.
This station is connected with a system of tunnels, 51/2 M. in length, ex-
tending from New Jersey under the Hudson River (two tubes, each I1/4 M.
long), across Manhattan (3V4 M. ; comp. PI. F 1 and Map at p. 72), and
under the E. River (four tubes, each 1 M. long) to Long Island (PI. F, G,
2-5), and so forming the final link in an uninterrupted line of railway
along the E. coast of America from Msiine to Florida. The tunnels will
probably be completed by 1910, at a cost of at least $ 100,000,000. Other
large buildings in Seventh Avenue are the State Arsenal, at the corner of
35th St., and the Carnegie Music Hall (PI. H 2, //; comp. p. 22), at the
corner of 67th St. In W. 42nd St., near Seventh Ave., is ilo-Q New Amsterdam
Theatre (p. 20), with sculptures on its facade.
The foot of Eighth Avenue is also featureless. At the corner of 23rd St.
is the Grand Opera House (PI. F 2, II; p. 21). The part of the Avenue
skirting the W. side of Central Park, and known as Central Park West, has
many large apartment houses, fine churches, and other important build-
ings. At the corner of 62nd St. is the so-caUed New Theatre (p. 21 ; by
Carrere & Hastings), at 63rd St. is the red brick structure of the Ethical
Culture School, at 65th St. is Holy Trinity Church (Lutheran), and at 68th St. is
the white marble Church of the Christian Scientists. At the corner of 72nd St.
are the Majestic Hotel (p. 13) and the Dakota Flats (PI. K, 2), conspicuous
in many views of the city. Between 75th and 76th Sts. is the Church of the
Divine Paternity (Universalist). — Between 76th and 77th Sts. is the new
building of the New York Historical Society (PI. K, 2), founded in 1804
(adm., see p. 29), which contains the Lenox Collection of Assyrian Marbles,
from Nineveh, a Library of 120,000 vols., mainly relating to the history of
America, the "Abbott Collection of Egyptian Antiquities (incl. three mummies
of the Sacred Bull), and a Gallery of Art (about 900 works). Among the
Central Park. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 55
pictures worthy of note are examples of Largilliere, Chardin, Greuze,
Rigaud, Ph. de Champaigne, Hobbema ("Landscape), G. Poussin, J. van der
Meer, Eeckhout, Victors, Brouwer, Teniers, Snyders, Mazzolini (St. Jerome),
Bramantino (Crncifixion), Roger van der Weyden (V Crucifixion), and a pnpil
of Leon, da Vinci (Madonna). There are also numeroas Portraits. — Above
Central Park Eighth Ave. is traversed by the elevated railroad, which
follows Ninth Avenue, which is named Columbus Avenue between 59th
and 110th Sts. In Ninth Ave., near 20th St. (Chelsea Sq.), is the extensive
building of the Protestant Episcopal Theological Seminary; at 34th St. is
the New York Institution for the Blind; and at 59th St. are the large Roosevelt
Hospital (PI. I, 2) and the Church of the Paulist Fathers. Between 7Tth St.
and 81st St. Ninth Avenue skirts Manhattan Square (PI. K, 2), a bay of
Central Park, with the Natural History Museum (p. 56). — Tenth Avenue,
which takes the name of Amsterdam Avenue at 59th St., contains few
buildings of note. In W. 59th St., just to the E. of the avenue, is the College
of Physicians and Surgeor.s (p. 67). In W. 65th St., near Amsterdam Ave.,
is the High School of Commerce. At the corner of 108th St. is the National
Academy of Design (PI. N, 2j , one of the chief art -institutions of the
United States, corresponding with the 'Academy' in London, and like it
consisting of Academicians (N. A.) and Associates (A. N. A.). The Schools
of Art attract numerous pupils and do excellent service (comp. p. 67).
Exhibitions, see p. 22. Behind the Academy of Design is the Hospital for
Women. For other buildings in the N. part of the Avenue, see p. 69.
The great promenade and open-air resort of New York is *Cen-
tral Park (PL I-N, 2, 3) , occnpying the centre of Manhattan Is-
land, between 59th and 110th Sts., covering 840 acres of ground,
and 2V2 ^- loTfig ^y V2 J^- wide. It was designed in 1858 by
Messrs. Fatix and OZmsfed, and cost about $15,000,000 (3,000,000 Z.).
The ground was originally a tract of swamp and rock, and its
transformation into so beautiful a park is an important monument
of American skill and perseverance.
Central Park diflers from most English parks in substituting a mul-
tiplicity of small picturesque scenes for broad expanses of turf and simple
groves of great trees. The park is practically divided into two distinct
portions by the Croion Eeservoirs, 143 acres in extent. Four concealed
transverse-roads (65th, 79th, 85th, and 97th Sts.), passing under or over
the park drives and walks by arches of masonry, enable ordinary traffic
to cross the park without annoyance to visitors. The park is enclosed
by a low cut-stone wall and has 20 entrances. The fashionable time for
driving and riding is in the afternoon from 4 to 7, and the 'Corso' here
almost challenges comparison with that in Hyde Park. The S. side of
the park may be reached by the Sixth Avenue Elevated Railroad, by the
Fifth Avenue omnibuses, and by several lines of tramway; and points
higher up may be reached by the tramway-lines on Fourth and Eighth
Avenues, while the elevated railroads on Third and Ninth Avenues pass
within a block or two. Park Carriages (automobiles) start from the Fifth
Ave. entrance and take visitors through the park to Grant's Tomb (25 c.
each), and from the Eighth Ave. entrance for the tour of the park (25 c),
with the privilege of alighting at any point and completing the round in
another carriage. The 'Seeing New York' automobiles (p. 19) pass through
Central Park on their uptown trip. Meals may be had at the Casino (near
the Mall) and at Jif Gown's Pass Tavern (N. end), and light refreshments
at the Dairy and at the foot of the Terrace Steps.
The chief promenade is the Mall (PL I, K, 3), near the Fifth
Avenue entrance, which is lined with fine elms and contains several
statues and groups of sculpture, including Shakspeare, Scott, Burns,
Halleck (p. 242), Columbus, and the Indian Hunter. Near its N. end
Baedeker's United States. 4th Edit. 1
56 Route 2. NEW YORK. Nat. History Museum.
is a mnsic-stand (concerts, see p. 22). From the *T€rrace, at the
N. end of the Mall, flights of steps descend to the Bethesda Fountain
and to the Lake, used for hoating in snmmer (boat 25 c. per 1/2 hr.,
with boatman 50 c.; trip in lannch 10 c.) and skating in winter.
The most extensive *Yiew in the Park is afforded by the Belvedere,
which occupies the highest point of the Ramble, to the N. of the
lake. The N. Park, beyond the Croton Reservoir, has fewer arti-
ficial featnres than the S. Park, but its natural beauties are greater,
and the Harlem Mere (12 acres) is very picturesque. About 300 yds.
from the lake are the large green-houses. The vicinity of M' Gown's
Pass (p. 55) was fortified both in 1776-83 and 1814, and a block-
house of 1814 is still extant near the 110th St. entrance (PI. N, 2).
Near the S.E. corner of the park (nearest entrance in 64th St.) are
the Old State Arsenal and a small Zoological Garden, the collection
in which is apt to be largest in winter, when various menageries
temporarily deposit their animals here. On the"W. side of the park
is the American Museum of Natural History (see below), and on the
E. side is the Metropolitan Museum of Art (see p. 58). To theW.
of the latter museum rises *Cleopatra's Needle, an Egyptian obelisk
from Alexandria, presented by Khedive Ismail Pasha to the City of
New York in 1877. Like the companion obelisk in London, this
monolith was originally brought from Heliopolis (On), where it
was erected and inscribed by Thutmosis III. about 1500 B.C. One
of the faces also bears inscriptions added by Ramses 11. three centuries
later (about the time of Moses). The obelisk is of red syenite, is
69 ft. high, and weighs 200 tons. The bronze crabs at the base are
modern reproductions (comp. p. 69). Among the other monuments
in the park are statues of Webster, Bolivar, Hamilton, and Morse,
allegorical figures of Commerce and the Pilgrim, and several busts
and animal groups. Just outside the park, beside the Sixth Ave.
entrance, is a statue of Thorvaldsen.
In Manhattan Sq. (p. 55), on the W. side of Central Park, between
77th and 81st Sts., stands the *Americaii Museum of Natural
History (PI. K, 2), which was incorporated in 1869. The present
buildings, erected in 1877-89, 1889-93, 1899, and 1907-8, form part
of a group which is intended eventually to occupy the entire area
(about 18 acres) between Central Park West, Columbus Ave.,
77th St., and 81st St. The present entrance is on the S. side of
the building (adm., see p. 29). The Museum received its charter
from the State of New York, but the ground and building belong
to the City of New York, while the current expenses are defrayed by
the City, the Trustees, and private subscriptions. The growth of
the Museum has been very rapid, and its collections are now very
extensive and valuable. It owes large benefactions to private in-
dividuals, particularly to Mr. Morris K. Jesup (d. 1908; bequest of
Nat. History Museum. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 57
$1,000,000, besides gifts during life), Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan, and
other past and present members of the Board of Trustees. The
interior is admirably arranged and lighted. There is no general
handbook or catalogue, but the objects are all labelled, and a large
diagram at the entrance of each room shows its contents and arrange-
ment. Lavatories in the basement. There is a restaurant on the
gallery floor, at the head of the E. staircase (comp. also p. 14).
A notable feature of the Mtiseuin''s activity is the series of lectures
delivered in the large Lecture Hall (ca. 1500 seats) on the groundfloor. Free
lectures, illustrated by stereopticon views, are delivered here to the school-
children of Nevr York City. Other free courses of lectures are given to
the scientific and general public.
Gkound Floob. We first enter a hall or foyer containing Meteorites
(including one from Greenland weighing 861/2 tons, the largest in the world),
an installation representing the Solar System, and Busts of Men of Science.
In the corridor to the E. (r.) are large Glol^e Maps of the Arctic and Antarctic
Regions, while in that to the W. is a collection of Totem Poles (p. 679). —
The E. Hall is occupied by the fine *Jesup Collection of North American
Woods, including photographs of the growing trees, maps of their habitats,
and beautiful water-colour paintings of their leaves, flowers, and fruit.
Here also is the Jesup Collection of Building Stones. — The specimens of
the Big Tree and the Redwood of California are exhibited in the adjoining
Comer Hall, which also contains the "Corals, Sponges, and MoUusks and
other Invertebrates. — The N. Hall contains part of the "Anthropological
and * Ethnographical Collections, among which may be mentioned the objects
brought from Maska and British Columbia by the Jesup North Pacific
Expedition, and the Emmons and Terry collections, the Esquimaux col-
lections, the wood-carvings of the Kwakiutl Indians, and the large war-
canoe from Queen Charlotte Island. — Among the contents of the W. Hall
are the groups and objects illustrating the life and customs of the Indians
of the plains of N. America and the tribes of S. E. Siberia.
Main Floob. Ascending by the W. staircase, we first enter (right) the
W. Hall, which carries on the Ethnological Collections (Indians of California,
Mexico, and S.W. States). Noteworthy are the baskets and pottery (pre-
historic and modern) and the turquoise collections of the Pueblo Indians.
The contents of the adjoining Corner Hall illustrate Indian Archaeology,
including the Douglas Collection of Indian Antiquities, objects from the
mounds and burial-places of the Central West States, and human remains
and implements from the glacial gravels of Trenton, N. J. Here also is
a Japanese Room, fitted up to illustrate the adaptation of Oriental material
and patterns to Occidental uses. In the gallery of the W. Hall are the
* Peruvian Antiquities (gold and silver objects, a unique series of musical
instruments, skulls and mummies, pottery, and implements of copper) and
other objects from S. America. In the gallery of the Corner Hall is the
Chinese Collection. — The Corner Hall is adjoined on the N. by a new
hall, not yet open to the public. — The corridor at the head of the W.
staircase is devoted to the fauna found near New York. — The Main Hall
and its gallery contain the general collection of Mammalia. Among the
skeletons is one of 'Jumbo', a huge African elephant brought by Barnum
from England to America in 1882 (12 ft. high). In the middle hangs a
skeleton of the Atlantic right whale. — In the corridor at the head of
the E. staircase is a portrait of Alex, von Humboldt, by Julius Schrader. —
The E. Hall is devoted to the Land Mammals of N. America, including
some admirable specimens of mounting (buffaloes, moose, elks, walrus).
From the ceiling hangs a model of the sulphur -bottom whale. In the
Corner Hall are specimens of the polar bear, caribou, and musk-ox. In
the gallery of this hall are the general Collection of Injects (raUing-cases)
and the Hoffmann Collection of Butterflies. Here also are mounted spe-
cimens of the zebra, rhinoceros, and a few other mammals. — From the
middle of the Main Hall we enter the N. Hall, the floor of which is devoted
58 Route 2. NEW YORK. Metropolitan
to the General Collection of Birds, while in the gallery are the habitat
groups of the Birds of North America. Among the latter may be mentioned
the brown pelican, flamingo, cormorant, wild turkey, egret, condor, fiah-
hawk, island birds (Bird Kock Group), and shore birds. Birds' nests and
eggs are exhibited on the E. side of the floor of the N. Hall. Birds found
near New York are at the W. end of the gallery of the Main Hall. —
From the N.W. corner of the N. Hall a corridor, containing the collection
of Fish., leads to the new W. Transept.
Second Flook. The E. Wing is devoted to the Collections of Vertebrate
Palaeontology^ including the valuable Cope Collection of Fossils. The alcoves
of the first hall contain groups illustrating the extinct mammals which
occupied N. America in the later geological periods. Among the most notable
are those representing the evolution of the horse, the rhinoceros, the
Titanotheres, the camel, the elephant, and the carnivora. The Phenacodus
is one of the earliest known collateral ancestors of the hoofed mammals.
One of the skeletons is that of the famous American racehorse 'Sysonby'.
The second hall contains fossil reptiles and fish. In the corridor is the most
complete known specimen of the Mosasaurus or marine lizard (30 ft. long).
— The Central or Morgan Hall contains the *Bement Collection of Minerals,
presented to the Museum by Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan. — In the corridor
beyond the Central Hall is the '''Tiffany Collection of Gems, also presented
by Mr. Morgan. — The X. Hall contains the Geological and Palaeontological
Collections., the principal feature of which is the "James Ball Collection,
illustrating the palgeontology of New York and some of the W. States. It
includes more than 100,0(X) specimens which have been used in the de-
scription of species by Hall (1836-98) and other geologists. — The W. or
Loubat Hall contains casts of pre-Columbian sculptures from Mexico and
Central America, and also pottery and objects of jade and gold, found in
the explorations carried on with funds furnished by the Due de Loubat.
Thiko Flooe. This floor is mainly occupied by the Library, Labora-
tories., and Offices. The Central Hall, however, contains the Collection of
Shells, the chief treasures of which are comprised in the Jay -Wolfe,
D. Jackson Steward, Haines, and Crooke collections.
The Metropolitan Museum.
The Museum (adm., see p. 29) lies on the E. side of Central Park,
opposite 82nd St., about 1/3 M. from the 84th St. Station of the Third
Ave. Elev. Railway (p. 16). The Fifth Ave. omnibuses (p. 18) pass the
door and the Madison Ave. street-cars (p. 18j within one block. The main
entrance is in Fifth Ave., and there is anther entrance in the S. facade
within the Park.
The ^Metropolitan Museum of Art (PI. K, L, 3) was originally an
unpretending red brick building with granite facings, measuring
345 ft. in length hy 235 ft. in hreadth, erected in 1879-98; but in
1902 the present imposing facade of gray Indiana limestone, in the
Renaissance style, designed by R. M. Hunt, was added. A new wing
by McKim, Mead, & White has just (1908) been added on the N.,
and the complete design includes a S. wing and other extensions.
The museum was incorporated in 1871 and has grown since then
with marvellous rapidity. Among the chief features of the museum
is the Cesnola Collection of Cypriote Antiquities (the largest in the
world), found by Gen. di Cesnola (1832-1904) in 1865 et seq. The col-
lection of Greek and Roman antiquities includes such unique objects
as the Boscoreale frescoes (R. 10) and the Etruscan chariot (R. 12),
while in R. 32 (upper floor) is one of the richest known collections
METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART
Ground Floor
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ETROPOLJTAN MUSEUM OF ART
Upper Floor
Museum of Art. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 59
of ancient jewellery. The Morgan Collection of Chinese Porcelain
(on loan), the Bishop Jade Collection, and the collections of armonr
and mnsical instrnments are also of unnsnal excellence. Among
the Old Pictures are good examples of Rembrandt, Van Dyck, Frans
Hals, Rnhens,Yan der Meer, Sebastiano del Piombo,Piero diCosimo,
Giovanni di Paolo, PoUajnolo, Gnardi, Lotto, El Greco, the Master
of Flemalle, Goya, Holbein, and Yan der Heist. The Modern
Paintings are extremely valuable, the French (Meissonier, Detaille,
Rosa Bonhenr, Corot, Manet, Renoir, etc.), the German, and the
British schools being all represented by good examples, while the
American section is both largo and representative. — Director, Sir
C. Purdon Clarice. Catalogne of the paintings 25 c. 5 catalogues of
special collections at varying prices. Most of the objects are labelled.
The museum received its charter from the State of New York, but
the building itself and the ground on which it stands are loaned by the
City of New York (comp. p. 56). The gifts of private donors, in money
and in kind, have been of the most generous nature, and one-fourth of
the cost of maintenance is borne by members of the corporation. In the
basement are a restaurant (W. side; moderate prices), and lavatories for
ladies (E. side) and gentlemen (W. side); there are other lavatories
close to the main entrance (ladies, S. side 5 gentlemen, N. side). Canes,
umbrellas, and parcels are checked at the stand to the right of the
entrance (parcels, 60.5 canes and umbrellas, free). The total number of
visitors to the Museum in 1907 was 800,763.
Ground Floor. On entering by the principal doOr, we find ourselves
in the fine Hall of Sculptube (P\. 1), 166 ft. long, 48 ft. wide, and two
stories high, out of which a spacious staircase ascends to the upper
floor. The modern statuary here includes examples of Eiram Powers^
Gibson, W. W. Story (Salome), Rinehart, Millet, Albano, Barnard ('I feel
two natures struggling within me"), Palmer, Saint- Gaudens, Stewardson, and
Other representatives of the American School. Interesting bronzes are a
*Bacehante, by MacMonnies, a Bear Tamer, by Paul Bartlett, the *Brazen
Age (Primitive Man), by Rodin, and the *Mares of Diomedes, by Gntson
Borglum. The ancient sculptures include a marble figure of Eirene (Roman
copy of a work by Cephisodotus) and a bronze statue of Emp. Trebonianus
Gallus (251-253 A.D.). On the waUs hang a large painting by Alakart ('Diana's
Hunting Party') and tapestry from the Coles collection. — The Cokeidoe
to the right (PI. 2) contains modern sculptures and the Giustiniani col-
lection of Greek marbles. — Room 3 contains the most recent acquisitions,
exhibited here until assigned their permanent position in the galleries. —
RooJi 4, to the W. of Room 3, is devoted to woodwork and furniture in
the Gothic, Renaissance, and 18th cent, styles. Among these are some
doors from the Bibliotheque Roy ale at Paris, given to the Museum by
Mr. J. P. Morgan, who has also presented the Hoentscliel Collection of
ISth cent. Woodwork, to be exhibited in the new N. wing (p. 68) adjoining
this part of the Museum. — Room 5, adjoining, contains furniture (chiefly
modern), Chinese embroidery and tapestry from the Coles collection,
sedan-chairs, sleighs, and a chair said to have belonged to Rubens. — The
small Transvebse Hall (PI. 6) is devoted to Egyptian Antiquities, found near
the Pyramids of Lisht by the Museum's recent expedition. These include
predynastic painted terracotta figurines : inscribed diorite offering-stand of
King Khefre of the 4th dynasty (ca. 2850-2700 B.C.), found near the ancient
Bubastis; limestone sarcophagus of Princess Henhenet from Deir el-Bahri
(11th dynasty); portrait of a KingMentuhotep of the same epoch; gold or-
naments, ceremonial whip, etc., of Sembtes, an Egyptian lady of the 12th
dynasty (ca. 2000-1780 B.C.), from tomb near Lisht; basalt sarcophagus
of Hor-mehet-biti, from tomb near Sakkara (26-30th dynasties) ; sculptor's
models of late-dynastic and Ptolemaic periods; silver vessels of the time of
Ramses II. ; original bronze Crabs placed under Cleopatra's Needle (p. 56). —
60 Route 2. NEW YORK. Metropolitan
Passing throush the short Cokeidor of Modekn Bronze Statuary (PI. 7),
including figures of John the Baptist by Rodin and Napoleon hjLaunt Thompson,
a bast of Goethe by A. F. Fischer, and a reduced replica of Merci^'s 'Gloria
Victis\ we reach the correspimding Transverse Hall to the S. (PI. 8). which
contains Greek and Roman Antiquitiet^com-pTJaing figurines and terracottas from
Tanagra and other Greek sites. — In the Corridor to the S. (PI. 9) are Greek
marble statues (Giustiniani collection), modern marble statues, a Memor-
ial Monument to E. A. Foe (1809-49), erected by the actors of New York, and
a fine Italian marble Mantel of the 16th cent., richly carved, from the Mar-
quand Collection. — Eoom 10, in the corner, contains some interesting
^'Frescoes from the Pompeian villa at Boscoreale, overwhelmed in 79 A.D.
by the eruption that buried Pompeii and Herculaneum and unearthed in
1900. One cubiculum, or bedroom, has been reconstructed so as to show
the frescoes in their original positions; frescoes from the other rooms
of the villa are shown in wooden frames. The colour of the frescoes,
especially the vivid reds of the architectural panels, i's their principal
charm. This room also contains Greek and Roman marble sculpture, in-
cluding an archaic statue of a woman (Greek; figure 6th cent. B.C., head
later); fragmentary 'Statue of a woman (Greek; probably 6th cent B.C.);
=^Tor?o of a boy; frajfmentary grave-stele of a woman (these two of the
Phidian school; 5th cent B.C.); a charming marble *Relief of a Young
Horseman (Greek; prnbably of 4th cent. B.C.); gravestone (Attic school;
4th cent. B.C.); head of Augustus (Roman; 1st cent. A.D. ?): and portrait
head of a man (Roman; 2nd cent. A.D.). — Room 11 contains Greek vases
from ca. 120* • B.C. to ca. 30 B.C. — Room 12 ('Bronze Room') contains Greek,
Etru.=can, and Roman bronzes from the Mycenaean to the Grseco-Roman
period. In the middle is a bronze-plated Etruscan "Riga, a triumphal
chariot dating from the 6th cent. B.C., in remarkable preservation (wioden
parts new). The panels are carved with mytholojiical subjects in high relief,
and the minor ornamentation is also noteworthy. A few smaller objects
found in 1902 in the same tomb as the Biga (near Monteleone de Spoleto)
are also exhibited here. Collection of tibulse (mainly Etruscan); bronze
mirrors and mirror-handles, with incised de'^igns; statuette of a girl holding
a lotos-hud 'Greek; 6th -ent. B.C.); statuette of a youth carrying a pig (Greek;
5th cent. B.C.); small Di^cu'^-ihrower (pre-Ph dian ?); reliefs of Satyrs" heads
(Greek; 3rd or 2nd cent. B.C.); statue of a Camillus or boy-acolyte (Roman;
1st cent. B.C.V); statuette of a panther (Roman; Early Empire); car of
Cybele (Roman; 2nd cent. A.D.?).
The Ion- Galleet (PI. 14) to the left of the staircase, leading from the
Hall of Sculiture to the old building, contains Antiquities, chi'-fly from
Gen. di Cesnola s Cypri 'te collectiim, including inscril ed clay t blets and
cylinders in Assyrian and Babylonian characters, and inscribed stone tablets
and columns in Assyrian, Hitiite, Phoenician, Greek, and Roman characters.
At the E. t^nd of the i^allery is a fine marble 'Sarcophagus froni Rome (prob.
1st or 2nd cent. A.D.) At the W. end is another Sarcophcgus^ partly in
the Assyrian and partly in the Greek style, found at Amathus, a Phoenician
city in Cyprus, and dating probably "from the 6ih cent. B.C. The Sar-
cophagus from Golgoi (ca. 600 B.C.) also illustrates the mingling of Assyrian
and Greek art. In the centre is an elaborate white marble Graeco-
Phoenician S' rcophagus. — The small Room 15 contains scarabs, terracotta
lamps (Roman period), statuettes and bronzes from Oxyrynchus, and
other Egyptian antiquities. In the centre are standards with textile fabrics
from the Fayiim (4tb ce-t. B.C. to 11th cent. A.D,).
We now rt'iich the old building and emer a series of rooms containing
Sculptural Casts. Room 16. Persian Casts. — Room 17 contains Archi-
tectural Casts & Models, includini; a model of the Hypostyle Hall of the
Temple of Karnak and one of the Pulpit of Siena Cathedral by Nic. Pisano
(1266-68; marking the fusion of Gothic and Romanesque ideas in Italy).
Here, too, are some stone fragments from Trajan's Forum at Rome (111-114
A.n.). — We now turn to the ri>;ht. Room 18. Egyptian Cai^ts. — Room 19.
Chaldaean and Assyrian. — Room 20. Prehistoric Greek. — Room 21. Early
Greek. — Rooms 22 <fe 23. Greek of 5th & 6th cent. B.C. — Room 24. Fnezes
and Sculptures from the Parthenon, and other Attic casts. — Corridor 26 (con-
Museum of Art. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 61
necting R. 23 with the Central Hall, see below). Casts of Greek Sculptures
of the 4th cent. B.C. ; Reproductions of Bronzes from Eerculaneum. —
Rooms 26-28. Later Greek. — Room 29. Late Greek and Roman. — Rooms
30 & 31. Casts of French Gothic Sculptures; four Stone Gargoyles (French
Gothic). — Room 32. French Renaissance. — Rooms 33-36. Italian Renaissance.
— Room 37. German Renaissance. — We dow retrace our steps to R. 32 and
enter the central Haxl of Akchitectueal Casts (PI. 38), which is lighted
from the roof. Among the chief objects reproduced here are a window
from the Certosa (Pavia) ; the Pulpit of Santa Croce (Florence) by Benedetto
da Majano; the Monument of Lysicrates; the facade of the Guild House
of the Butchers, Hildesheim (1529); the Portico of the Erechtheum; the
Parthenon (model), with full-size reproductions of parts of pediment and
frieze (on walls); topographical model of the Acropolis; the Pantheon
(interior accessible); Notre Dame; Shrine of St. Sebaldus at Nuremberg,
by Peter Vischer (1519); and a bay of the cloisters of St. John Lateran
(12th cent.). Here also are a few large sculptural casts. Above, skirting
the galleries, are casts of the tympanum sculptures of the E. and W. pedi-
ments of the Temple of Zeus at Olympia, and of the frieze of the Temple
of Apollo near Phigaleia. We now proceed through Coeeidoe 39 {Italian
Renaissance Sculpture., originals and casts of the Delia Robbia school) to
Room 40, which, with Rooms 41 & 42, contains the Cesnola Cypriote Col-
lection.^ including heads and other fragments of statues, statuettes (many
with traces of colouring), statues (amongst others, an archaic Hercules),
terracottas, sepulchral steles, alabaster vases, inscribed lamps, etc. AH forms
of ancient art, from Assyrian to Grseco-Roman, are represented in the sculp-
tures. In a wall-case nre snme interesting representations of Venus, from the
earliest mde approximations to the human form to works of the best Greek
period. Part of the collection o^ Ancient Glass i« temporarily exhibited here.
We now again pass through RR 1", 16, & 15 and so reach Coeeidoe 13,
containing Egyptian Antiquities (mummies and mummy-cases; so-called
cauopi, or jars for the entrails of the decensed; funerary tablets; stone,
bronze, and terracotta images; jewellery; toilet accessories; coiffure-sup-
port in leather; flint knives and other implements). This corridor brings
us back to the new wing.
We have now finished our tour of the groundfloor, and next ascend
.the Gband Stairway, ornamented with marble busts, to the upper floor.
The small Room 10, at the head of the staircase, contains a bust of
Pope Innocent X by Algardi. a bronze statue of Washington by ffoudon,
some reproductions of metal work, a modern French stained-glass window,
designed by L. O Merson, and the lacquered doors from the Palace of Ispahan.
Upper Floor. The Coeeidoe to the N. (PI. 8) contains a fine col-
lection of Japanese' Armour., incluriing prehi'^toric bronze corselet, helmets,
and cerenionial spear, part of the votive harne-s oi Hachiman Taro from
Utatsu. and a dec rated 'Corselet and *Helmet of 1200 A.D Thi« corridor
leads to Coeeidoe I, in the gallery of the Hall of ^cilpture, containing
chiefly Japanese Objects of Art, includins bronzes, cloisonne' enamel, v^'ood-
work, a model of a pagoda at Todaiji Nara (in bronze and other metals),
and the Bryant Vase, by Tiffany, presented to the poet on his 80th birthday
(1874). Here also is some Oriental and European Armour. Turning to the
left, we reach Cobeidor 2, containing European Pottery and Porcelain.
At the farther end is a relief of the Assumption, by lAica delta Robbia
(1400-1482), an original from the mortuary chapel of the Princes of Piom-
bino. — Room 3 contains European Arms and Armour, including the
^Collection fo merly belonging to the Due de Dino and the J. H. Ellis Collec-
tion, with addiiions (catalogue, by Ba^hford Dean, 25 c.). The historic pieces
include a harness of Philip II., casque and horse- frontal of Henry II.,
half-suit of the Duke of Sessa, arquebus designed for Louis XIII., casque
and shield of Louis XIV., tournament helm of Sir Giles Capel, the cross-
bow of Ulrich V. of Wurtemherg, and the probably authentic *Casque of
Joan of Arc. — Room 4 is devoted to the ■'Eeber R. Bishop Collection of Jades
(catalogue 10 c). The room is fitted up so to reproduce the ball-room of
Mr. Bishop's house (modelled after a room in the Palace of Versailles) and
contains a portrait of him by Bonnat. — Coeeidoe 6 contains the collection
62 Route 2. NEW YORK. Metropolitan
of Oriental and European Porcelain and Majolica^ presented by Mr. Henry
(a. Marquand and others ; part of a *Dado from the Pavilion of Chechel
Sutooa at Ispahan, built in the reign of Shah Abbas I. (1587-1628), and
two large blue Sevres Vaess, presented by the Republic of France to
American Societies. — At the corner where we turn into Cokeidoe 7 is
an ancient Buddhist Shrine. The corridor contains Chinese <& Japanese
Lacquers and Bronzes, with a lacquer Shrine (modern Japanese) at the
farther end. — Room 6 contains a superb collection of *Old Chinese Forcelain,
loaned by Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan (originally formed by Dr. Garland, but
much extended; catalogues 25 c. and §3). Case I contains the only known
specimen of a *Red Hawthorn Beaker (No. 14). — Coeeidoe 9, leading back
to the old building, contains Silver Ware. In the centre cases, European
and American silver; in the wall-cases, reproductions of pieces in European
collections. Above is European Stained Glass (15-17th cent.).
Other Staiecases ascend to the Upper Floor from both ends of Halls 18
and 31. On the walls of Stairway A (S.E.) are the Seasons by J. J. Horemans
and other old paintings. Stairway B (N.E.) has a hunting-scene hj Horemans
and other works. On Stairway C (2f.W.) are works by Dirck' ani Frans
Hals., Pieier Brueghel, and Mc. Poussin. Stairway D (S.W.) is hung with
the Muses by Fagnani (portraits of IsTew Tork ladies), paintings by Marichal,
Eaydon, and Karl Milller, and a piece of Spanish tapestry.
We begin our tour of the upper floor of the old building, containing
the collection of paintings, with Room 11, opening from the Grand Stairway.
Room 11 (Primitive Masters of Various Schools). We begin at the
S. end of the W. wall (opposite the main entrance): Giovanni di Paolo
(ca. 1400-1481), no number. Paradise, and part of an altar-piece ; 22. Pollajuolo
(1429-98), St. Christopher and the Infant Christ; no number, Fiorenzo di
Lorenzo {z&. 1472-lo20)j Nativity; no number, Cornelis Engelbrecht (i4jS-1533),
Crucifixion; 262. J. van Eyck (ca. 13i;0- 1440), Virgin and Child; no number,
Jacques Daret (Maitre de Flemalle; ca. 1410-63), Virgin and Child; S5A.
Isenbrandt (ca. 1490-1551), Ecce Komo and Mater Dolorosa; ascribed to Luis
Borrassa (Span. ; early 15th cent.), Large altar-piece; Carlo Crivelli (1468 ?-95),
no number, St. George in Armour, St. Dominic ; no number, Cimci da
Gonegliano (1459-1517?), Altar-piece (S3. Roch, Antliony, and Lucy); Piero
di Cosimo, 93. Retarning from the Cba^e, 92. Hunting-scene. — This room
also contains some primitive sculpture, including a Madonna and Child
(painted terracotta relief) by Jacopo delta Querela (1374-1438'); a Gothic'
Muranese Tabernacle, enclosing a Madonna in painted and tiil.ied wood ; a
Madonna and Child (marble relief; loan), by Agostino diDuccio (l-tlS-ca. 1481) ;
and a Head of a boy (glazed terracotta; loan), by RosselUno (1409-64).
Room 12, to the W. of R. 11, contains Modern Paintings of the American
School. We begin to the left of the N. door on the E. side : 131. W. M. Chase
(b. 1849), Portrait; 656. W. J. Dannat fb. 1853), Quartette; no number,
Winsloio Homer (b. 1S36), Gulf ^tream; 541. G'iorge Fuller (1S22-S4), 'And
she was a witch'; 174. Gilbert Stuart (1755-1S'28), Capt. Henrv Rice; liO.
Elihu redder (b. 1836), Sentinel; 171. John Trumbull (175o-iS43), Alex.
Hamilton; 101. Joseph Kvle (1813-68), Portrait; Gi-^orge Inness (1825-94),
150. Autumn oaks, 120. Pine Grove (Italv); 125. Thomas Cole (18Ji-4S),
Vallevof rhe Vaucluse; 124. John F. Weir (b. 1841), Forging the shaft; 130.
Picknell (1S2>97), Bleak December; 133. Henry Mosler (h. 1S41), Wedding
feast in Brittany; 197. Cole, In tlie Catskills ; 14S. Eastman Johnson (1824-19'j6(,
Two men; no number, TT'7jisi!Zer(1834-lC03), 'Nocturne; '225 5. JohnS. Sargent
lb. 1^56). W. M. Chase: 603. /. W. Alexander (b. 1856), Walt Whitman.
Gallery 23, which we enter from the N'.W. door in R. 12, contains
Medals and Plaques by David d'Angers, Roty, Charpentiev, and other
masters; ''European and Oriental Knives (17-18th cent.); -'Renaissance Door
Fittings; Bronze and Iron Gates: German Strong Box (i6th cent.); and Modern
Bronzes. On the walls: no number, Loeh, Temple of the winds; 679.
Boutignu, Revolt at Pavia; 532. Julien Diiprii (b. 1851), The balloon; *5!;8.
F. A. Bonheur (1824-84), Woodland and cattle (fine sunlight eilect). This
gallery overlooks the Architectural Court (p. 61). — Galleet 22 (entered
from the S.W. door of Room 12) contains portr its and memorials of
Washington, Franklin, and Lafayette (including earliest known portrait of
Museum of Art NEW YORK. -2, Route. 63
WasMngton, a miiiiature),Tliusnelda at the triumpli of Germamcus(N().598),
by C. T. von Piloty (1826-86), Japanese Textile Fabrics^ and small Modern
Bronzes. On the wails, Ecyman tapestry designed by F. RomanelU (1635).
Room 13, reached direct from Staircase A or from the S. end of
R. 12, contains Paintings., mainly of the earlier American School. We
begin to the left of the entrance from Staircase A : Gilbert Stuart^ 164. John
Jay, no number, 'Dona de Jaudenes, *198. George Washington, no number,
Gibbs-Channlng-Avery portrait of Washington, 225c. Judge Anthony, no
number, *Don Josef de Jandenes y Nebot, first Spanish Minister to the
United States; good landscapes by Bunce, Daingerfield, Homer., and Church;
no number, Brush (b. 1855), In the garden : no number, A. H. Thayer (b. 1849),
'Daughter ofthe artist; 206. ATaW.Prai'i; (1734-lSOo), The Americans'cLoo], with
portraits of Ben. West, Pratt himself, and other painters; 176. C. W. Peale
(1741-1827), Washington; Portrait hj StiUu. — The S.E. door leads into —
Room 14, containing a "^Collection of Old Masters, chiefly of the Dutch
and Flemish Schools. To the left : Rubens (1577-164U), *33. Cambyses' punish-
ment of an unjust judge, *226. Susannah and the Elders (Susannah a portrait
of his second wife, Helena Fourment; painted after 1G30); 1. A. de Vries
(i7th cent.), Portr; it ; =-232. School of Van Dvck (1590-1641), Lady with a ruff;
76. Jan Steen (1626-79), Dutch kermesse; 1 1 . Teniers the Younger (1610-90),
Marriage - festival ; 30. B. van der Heist (1613-70), Guitar-player; 59. A.
van OsiacZe (I6t0-S5), Fiddler; 235. Jacob van J?w?/5daeZ (1628-S2), Landscape;
236. B. van der HeM, Portrait; Rembrandt (160o-69), 237. The mUls, 241.
Adoration of the Shepherds; 271. Juvriaen Ovens (1623-78), Portrait (dated
1650); 75. Teniers the Younger. Temptation of St. Anthony; 8. A. van der Neer
(1603-77), Sunset; =^^58. Frans Hals (ca. 1580-1666), Hille Bobbe of Haarlem, the
sailors' Venus ; 7. Teniers the Elder (15S2-1649), Dutch kitchen ; no number.
M. J. van Mierevelt (1567-1641), Portrait; 81. Caspar Netscher (1G39-84), Dutch
lady ; 54. B. van der Heist., Dutch Burgomaster; 242. Hendrik M- Sorgh (Iti 11-70),
Kitchen; 238. iVetec/^er, Card party; 228. <S. van Hoogstraten (1628-78), Portraits
of a gentleman and lady: *260. Aelbert Cuyp (1620-91), Landscape with
cattle; 273. Metsu (lSSO-67),' Music-lesson ; *264. Frans Hals, Portrait; *266.
John S. Sargent., Henry G. Marqua:id (see p. 62), President of the Museum
in 1890-92, who presented many of the line-t works in this g.illerY and
in R. 20; 243. Van DycJc, Portrait; *270. Velazquez (1699-1060), Portrait of
himself (?); *234. Fran^ Hals (school-piece?), The smoker; 276. G. Terburg
(1617-31), Portrait; 11. Jan Steen. The old rat comes to the trap at last;
71. Rachel Ruysch (1664-1750), Flowers and fruit. — We now pass into —
Room 15, containing Pictures from the Colkciion of Mr. G. A. Hearn., chiefly
by British and American masters. The numbering begins to the E. of the
N. door: 230. Inness., Peace and plenty-. 281. Gaitisborough (1727-88). Portrait;
282. R. P. Boningioni 1801-28), Scene in :N'ormandy ; 2Si. Richard Wilson (^YliS-
82), Stirm; 237. Sir Joshua Reynolds (1723-92), Portrait; 29,0. John Hoppner
(1758-lSlO), Portrait; no number, .B'o^'a?-;/' (1897-1764), Peg WoiTington; 291.
Sir Peter Lely (1617-80), Portrait; 293. Sir Godfrey Kneller (1H46-1723), Por-
trait; 294. Sir Henrv Raeburn (1(56-1823), Portrait; 2^5. Reynolds, Duke of
Cumberland; 296. George Morland (1763-1804), Middav meal; 299. Claude
Lorrain (ie00-lH82), Seaport; 3U1. /. van Ostade (1621-49), Winter-scene: 302.
P. de Hooch (16.S0-ca. 1677), Dutch interior; 303. A. Willaerts (1577-1664),
River-scene; 307. A. Cuyp, Landscape with cattle: 308. Reynolds. Portrait; no
number, F.omn^ey (1734-1802^, Ladv Hamilton; 3i5 Wilson. Landscape: Rey-
nolds, no number, Child, 31-. Mi's.AngelO; '?>1^. Jacques Blanchardi\&Ji'VcQ¥^,
Venus and Adonis ; 322. Sir T/os. Lawrence {i~i%^-li'iQi), Lady EUenboroi:gh;
323. Gainsborough, Landscape: o25. Darnel Mytens (17th cent.), Charles I.
Room 16 at present contains the valuable "WiUiam H. Vanderhilt. Col-
lection of Modern Paintings, lent by Mr. George W. Vanderhilt. This in-
cludes admirable examples r,f Meissonier, Millet (77. Water Carrier, 79. Sower),
Corot, Gdrdme, Detcille, Troyon, Breton, Rotcsseau, Bias, Rosa Bonheur,
lAnnell, Alma-Tadema, and many other French and British Masters.
Room 17 contain? a collection of modern paintings bequeathed to the
Museum bv Miss Catharine Lorillard-Wolfe (1828-87) along with an endowment
of $ 200,000. To the left : 336. Hoppner, Mrs. Bache : 3.38. Bida (1813-95), Mas-
sacre of the Mamelukes in 1811; 337. Rousseau (1812-67), Edge of the woods;
64 BouU^. NEW YORK. Metropolitan
340. Lord Frederick Leighton (1830-96), Laclirymse 5 334. i^'aZgro (1851-P6), Twin
stars ; '350. E. Meissonier (1815-91), Sign-painter ; 349. Dor4 (1882-83), Retreat
from Moscow; 344. M. Leloir (b. 1853), Opportunity makes the thief ; *358.
Meissonier^ Adriaen and Willem Van de Velde ; 3n4. Girdme (Is24-i904),
Arabbov; 358. Jules Breton (1S27-19U6), Peasant girl knitting; 359. Couture
(1815-79), Idle student; 360. A. Achenbach (b. 1815), Sunset; '364. Jules
Breton, Religious procession in Brittany; 365. Marchal (1825-77), Evening
in Alsace; 373. Louis Eaghe (lS:06-85), A toast in the guard-room; 374.
Meissonier^ General and adjutant: 375. iN^armseDia^de iaPswa (1807-76), Holy
Family; 380. Vihert (1^40-1902), The startled confessor : *i>82. F. E. Delaci-oix
(1798-1-63), Abdution ot Rebecca ('Ivanhoe'): 389.'^. Detaille (b. 1848),
Skirmish between Cossacks and the Old Guard ; *394. Gabriel Max (b. 1840),
The last token; 390. /. J. Henner (1^29-19U5), Bather; 397. Isabey (1804-86),
Banquet-hall; 396. Schenck {iBl%-i20i), Lost (a scene in Auverane); 399. Ca-
banel (1823-89), The Shulamite Woman (Song of Solomon, ^).
Rooji 18 (Wolfe Collection continued). To the left (of S. door): 414. For-
tuny (1833-74), Camels at Tangiers ; 415. Boldini (b. 1845), Gossip ; 418. Daniel
Huntington (b. 1816 1, John David Wolfe, father of Miss C. L. Wolfe; 421.
Cabanel, Portrait of Miss Wolfe; 474. Boughton (lS33-19o5). Puritan girl; 426.
Rosa bonheur (1822-99), Hound; 423. Detaille. Cuirassier; 432. Dupr4 (1812-
89). Hay-wagon; 433. Decamps (1803-60), Night patrol at Smyrna; 435. Van
Marcke (1-^27-91), The mill; ^437. Bonnat (b. 1833), Fellah woman and child ;
440. Munkacsy (1846-1900), Pawnbroker's shop ; 441. Vibert, A reprimand ;
442. Bargue (d. 1883), Bashi Bazouk; 443. Berne BeUecour (b. 1838), The
Intended; *444. Troyon (1810-65), Dutch cattle; 447. J/erZe (1823-81), Falling
leaves; 449. Rosa Bonheur, Wea,ning the calves: 450 W. von Kaulbach (iSOo-li),
Ci'usaders before Jerusalem fa large allegorical work) : 451. Lefebvre
(b. 1836), Girl of C pri; '455. fro yo7i,^White cow ; 458. Lambert (1825-1900),
Cat and kittens; 459. Desgotfe (1830-1901), Still-life (original objects in the
Louvre and selected by Miss Wolfe for the artist) ; 468. Schreyer (1828-99),
Arabs on the march ; 469. Leroux (1>29-190J), Roman ladies at the tomb of
their ancestors; *472 Gerdme, Prater in a Cairene mosque; 476. Cot
(1837-83), The storm; 480. Pasini (1826-i^9), Entrance to a mosque; 482.
Rousseaii, River-scene; 4'^3. Corot (1796-1875), Ville d'Avray.
Rooji 19 (Paintings of Various ScliooU). We begin to the left of the
door irom R. IS: 277. Zmbaran (l58-^-lbb2), St Michael the Archangel;
.109. Franc. Goya (1746-1848), 'Cap-ichns' ; no number, Giordano (1632-1705),
PreS'^ntation in the Temple; *46 Van Duck, St. Martha int'-rceding for the
cessation of the plague atTarascon; 493. Frangois Bouc/ier {{lOS-lU). Rescue
of Arion fiom the waves; *501. Kicolas Laryilliere (1656-1746), Portrait;
*503. F_. H. Drovais (1727-T5), Joseph II. of Austria; *5n4. Jeau Marc Nattier
(1H85-Ii66), Princesse fie Conde as Diana; no number, Lhermitte (b 1844),
Amcng the lowly; no numi er, Autoine i'eroet (175S-1^36). Roman tri'imjh
(a larjie canvas)- 519. Duple xsis (1725-1802), Benjamin Franklm; 50.^. Greuze
(1T25-1S05), Srudy of a h ad . no number, Murillo (161782), St. John the
Evan.elist; ./. B. Tiepolo (16;'6-1770), 96. Triumph of Fenlinand LU., 105.
Sacrifice of Abraham, 88. Crown of Thorns; Francesco Guardi (1712 93), 89.
The Rialto, 5. Santa Maria della Salute; no numbe-, Tin'oretto (loi8-94),
Last Supper; 1(8. Goya, Jewess; 90. Carlo i/ara«a (1625 1713), Clement IX.
Room 21 (Vanous Modern Schools). The numbering begins to the left
of the S.W. door leading into R. 20: No. 533. C-rl Marr (b. I808), Gossip;
Josef Israels (b. 1824), 539. Bashful suitor," 637 Exp>-ctation; Anton Mauve
(1838-88), 543 Autumn, nSS. Spring; 544. Cabonel, Birth ot Venus; Adolphe
Monticelli (1828-86), no number, La cour de la Princesse, Dames de qualite;
Qbl..Edouard J/«we< (1832-83), Girl with a parrot; Gustave Conrbet (ISld-ll),
5^6. Coast scene, no number, Eflet de neige; no number, Auguste Renoir
Cb. 1841), 'Mme. Charpentier and her children; no number, Puvis de Chavannes
(1824-9-), The shepherd's lay; 566. /. /. Henner, Mary Magdalen; 565.
Lhermi'te, Vintatie ; *o62. E. De'aille, Defence of Champisny. — ="650. Rosa
Bonheur, Hor.se-fair, the artist's u)asterpiece, familiar from Thomas Landseer's
engraving. A quarter -size replica is in the London National Gallery.
This, the original picture, was purchased by Mr. Cornelius Vanderbilt, on
the dispersal of the Stewart collection, for $ 58,000 and given by him to the
Museum of Art. NEW YORK. 2. Boute. 65
Museum. — *538. Meissonier, Friedland, 1807 (one of tlie few large canvases
of this painter, intended, in the master's own words, to represent 'Napoleon
at the zenith of his glory, and the love and adoration of the soldiers for
the great Captain for whom they were ready to die'). It was bought by
Mr. Henry Hilton for $ 66,000 and presented by him to the Museum. —
545. Maignan (b. ca. 1835), 'L'Attentat d'Anagni', an incident in the life of
Pope Boniface VJII. 5 653. Clays (1819-99), Celebration of the freedom of
the port of Antwerp (1863); 552. Bisi (1814-86), MHan Cathedral; *550. Bas-
tien-Lepage (1848-1884), Joan of Arc.
Rooji 20 (British School). To the left (of S.E. door): Xo number,
Millais, Portia; 227. Hogarth, Miss Rich; 151. Robert Walker (d. 165S), Gen.
Ireton; no number, Romney, Mrs. Fitzherbert; 252. Constable (1776-1837),
Lock on the Stour: 99. George H. Story (b. 1835), Young mother; *244.
J. M. W. Turner (1775-1851), Saltash; *166. Reynolds, Hon. Henry Fane and
his guardians Inigo Jones and Charles Blair (a large and splendid group,
recalling the so-called 'Three Graces' in the London ISTational Gallery);
*254. Constable, Valley Farm; J. M. W. Turner. *341. Whale-ship, ''165.
Grand Canal, Venice; 167. Charles Lucy (1814-73), Nelson in the cabin of
the 'Victory'; 163. Reynolds, Portrait; no number, G. F. Watts (1818-1904),
Ariadne; 41. Berchem (162U-b3), Rest; 168. Sir Martin Archer Shee (1769-1850),
Daniel O'Connel); 246. Reynolds, liadiy Carew; Gainsborough, 243. Girl with
a cat, no number. Portrait of himself, 278. Landscape; *251. Old Crome
(1769-1821), Hautbois Common ; no number, Lely, NeUGwvnne. On a screen,
D. G. Rossetti (1828-18^2), Lilith.
Room 24 (Selected Paintings of Various Schoolx). We begin to the left
of the entrance from R. 21; No. *269. Frans Hals, Portrait of an old lady
(so-called artist's wife); 258. J. van der Meer (i63i 75), Young woman opening
a casement; tio numfier, C. Caliari (1570-96), AUeLiOiical figures; no number,
N. Maes (1632-93), 'Portrait; no number. Van Dyck, Neptune; Holbem. 231.
Archbishop Cranmer, no number, Young man; '43. /. JorcZaews (1593-1 H78),
Philo.'^ophers ; Rembrandt, 239, 240. Portraits; 230. F. Torbido (14h6v-1546?J;
Portrait; no number, F. Guard', Water-fete at Venice; 86. Seb . del Piombo
(1485-1547), Christopher Columhns ■. no number, Goya, DonSeba.^tian Martinez ;
no number, S. van Ruysdnel (1600-1670), Landscape; no number, Ascribed
to Giov. BeWni (ca. I43u-.5l6), Madonna and ihild; 39- Van Goyen (1596-
1656). Windmill: 86. Seb. del Piombo (148. -1647), Christopher Columbus; 225-
G'tZ'-er^jSiwaj'i, Mrs. Judge Anthony Jr. ; ''b^?). Edo"ard Manet,BoY with a sword ;
*49. Rubens., HoU Family; lOl. El Greco (15;S-1B25), Niitivitx ; no number, L.
Lotto (14811-1556), Portrait; 2.^3. Van Dyck, Duke of Richmond; Cranach the
Elder (1472-1553), Elector of >a.\'ony. — Over the doors of this room, forming
decorative panels, are tw elve portraits ascribed to Bramantino (d. 15^5).
Room 25 (Modern Paintings). We begin to the left of tlie entrance
from R 24: No. 5^7. C. L. Elliott ( 812-68), Portrait of himself; 179 D. M.
Bunker (1861-90), Portr it of the artists wife- 669. A. Mauve, Going to
pa-ture; 676. E. Mesdag (h. 183i), The lone se:i ; 632. Bonnat, John Taylor
Johnston, first prt sident of the Mu.'^eum (1870-9(0; no number, G. Bierstadt
(1830-19U?), Rocky Mountains; 549. Humer Martin (i836-97). White Moun-
tain.''; 601. A. H. Wyant (US36-92), County Kerry; Thomas Hovenden (iSiO-
95), 193. Last moments of John Brown, 573. Jerusalem the Golden.
Room '^6 contains the "Moore Collection, including Oriental pottery and
glass, metal-work, woodwork, basketry, lacquers, etc.. espe-ially of Moslem
origin; Chinese and Japanese pottery, bronze, and lacquer; Greek and
Roman elass and pottery. — Room 21 is devoted to Chinese Porcelain. —
RoiiM 28 contains the * Museum Collection of Glass (15-2' th cent.), including
the Jarves collection of Arabian, Per,-ian, Venetian, Spanish, and French
glass, a collection of Tiffany's 'favrile' glass, and the Matthiessen collection
of rock-crystal and jade. — Room 29. Textiles. Cases 1-18, European
brocades and embroidery (14-18th cent.); Cases 19-24. Oriental embroidery.
In the wall-panels, Burgundian tapestry (early 15th cent.). — Room 30.
Japanese Porcelain and Pottery. — Room 31. Japanese Pottery and Porcelain.
Room 32. to the S. of R. 31. is the Gallery of Gems, Coins Gold and
Silver Ornaments, and Miniatures. The -Cesnola Collection of Cypriote Or-
naments (mainly from Curium), contains beautiful specimens of gold
66 Route 2. NEW YORK. Episc. Cathedral.
jewellery, fibulse, rings, votive ornaments, engraved gems, silver vessels, etc.
Some are of gold plated with silver. Kingf Collection of Engraved Gems
(catalogue 10 c). Egyptian, Babylonian, Phoenician, Greek, Roman, Etruscan,
&nd. Longobardic Gold Ornaments. ''Collection of Inscribed Cylinders (Assyrian,
Persian, Babylonian, Hittite, etc.). Silver and Gold Ornaments from Colombia
and Peru. Ward Collection of Greek Coins (7tli cent. B.C. to present day).
Burkee Collection of Roman Gold Coins (46 B.C. to 328 A.D.). Farman Collection
of Greek, Roman, & Egyptian Coins. Moses Lazarus Collection of Miniatures
and Snuff Boxes. Avery Collection of Spoons (catalogue 20c.). Drexel, Phoenix,
and Baxter Collections of Objects iji Gold and Silver and Gems. * Tabernacle
Boor (iith cent.). Limoges and Battersea Enamels. 'Becree of Emp. Gye-
long of Annam, conferring higli rank on Ms grandmother. Golden Book,
with Chinese characters. Japanese Imperial Becorations.
Room 33 is devoted to \'h.& Collection o/Zace, presented by Mrs. J.J. Astor
and others. — Room 34 contains Fans and Textile Fabrics. — Rooms 35-89
hold tlie Crosby-Brown Collection of Musical Instruments.
Near the N.W. corner of Central Park, "beginning at llOth St.
and extending thence to 123rd St., is the long and narrow Morning-
side Park (PI. N, 0, 2), with its long flights of steps and massive
retaining walls. It alfords good views of Central Park, Washington
Heights, the Harlem River, and the high part of the Ninth Ave.
El. Ry. (comp. p. 15). — On the W. this park is bonnded hy
Morning side Avenue West and Morningside Heights, the site of several
important new hnil dings. At the corner of Morningside Ave. W. and
112th St. is the new Episcopal Cathedral of St. John the Divine
(Pl.N, 2), designed hy Heins and La Farge, the corner-stone of which
was laid in 1892, hut the building of which has not progressed very
far. The Crypt, including the curious Tiffany Chapel of mosaic glass
(altar made of 150,000 separate bits of glass), and the Belmont or
St. Saviour's Chapel are the only portions completed. One of the
great arches of the crossing has also been erected, and the huge
granite columns of the choir (over 50 ft. high) will soon be in
place. On the walls of the crypt are hung two of the so-called
'Barberini Tapestries', eight of which, executed at Rome in the
17th cent., were bequeathed to the cathedral by Mrs. E. Y. Coles.
Services are held in the crypt on Sun. and on week-day afternoons
(5 p.m.); it is open to the public on Tues., Thurs., & Sat., 4-6,
but visits may be arranged for at other times also. A large model
of the choir, 20 ft. long, may be seen in the cathedral grounds on
application. — To the N. of this, in the block bounded by Morning-
side Ave. W., 10th Ave., 113th St., and 114th St., is the large building
of St. Luke's Hospital (PI. N, 2), constructed of white marble and
white pressed brick, with a tower and clock over the main entrance.
Adjacent is the Sesrun ( 'Nurses') Club.
To the N.W. of this point, on a magnificent site extending from
114th St. to 121st St., 110-150 ft. above the Hudson River, are the
new buildings of *CoIumbia University (PI. N. 0, 1, 2), the oldest,
largest, and most important educational institution in New York. It
has over 500 professors and instructors and npwards of 5000 students
Columbia University. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 67
aud ranks witli tlie foiemost universities of America. Among its alnmni
are Goxivexneur Morris, John Jay, Alexander Hamilton, Hamilton
Fish, and De Witt Clinton. The bnildings are open on week-days
from 9 to 6 (lihiary till 11 p.m.). The grounds contain ahont 35 acres.
Columbia was founded by royal charter in 1754 as King's College, and
tbe first college building was erected near tlie lower end of the island.
In 1776 tbe college was suspended owing to its 'Tory' proclivities, but in
1784 it was re-incorporated as Columbia College. In 1787 it was trans-
ferred to an independent board of trustees. In 1857 tbe college was
removed to 49tb tit., wbere it remained until its transference to tbe
present site in 1897. In 1890 tbe institution was reorganized on a broad
university basis, and it now consists of Columbia College proper (for
men) and Barnard CoUege (see below), affording liberal undergraduate
courses, and of tbe Scbools of Law, Medicine, Mines, Engineering, and
Chemistry, Architecture, Music, and Design, Education (Teachers College,
see below), Pharmacy, Political Science, Philosophy, and Pure Science.
Significant features of its organization are the careful articulation of the
work of the undergraduate colleges with that of the professional schools
and the close relation which the University bears to the other institutions of
the city. Thus the School of Design has been established on a cooperative
agreement with the Academy of Design (p. 55).
The finest building, in the centre of the group, is the ''Library
(containing 400,000 volumes), a Roman structure surmounted by a flat
dome, designed by Chas. F. McKim and erected by Mr. Seth Low, President
of the University from 1850 to 1901, as a memorial to his father. The
figure of 'Alma Mater' on tbe steps ascending to the library from the S.
is by Dan. G. French (1903). To the :N. is University Ball (unfinished),
containing a gymnasium, a swimming tank, and the University Commons.
The other buildings include Schermerhorn Hall (natural sciences), Eave-
meyer Hall (chemistry and architecture), Fayerweathev Hall Cphysics and
astronomy), the Engineering and Mines Buildings, Hamilton Hall (for
Columbia College), Earl Hall (students' building; comp. p- 44), Kent Hall
(for the Law School), and Hartley and Livingston Dormitories (600 rooms).
*8t. PauVs Chapel (1906 ; by Howells & Stokes) contains stained-glass win-
dows by John La Farge and others, commemorating graduates of the in-
stitution. On the Engineering Building is a tablet commemorating the
battle of Harlem Heights (p. 69). — The medical school of Columbia is the
College of Physicians and Surgeons (PI. I, 1) in W. o9th St., between 9th
and 10th Avenues (p. 55), which is handsonaely endowed (by the Vanderbilt
family) and thoroughly equipped. The New York College of Pharmacy (230
students), 115 W. 6Sth St., is similarly affiliated with the University. The
total endowment of the University is S 20,4S2,0C0, and the assessed valua-
tion of its buildings and grounds S 10,285,000!
The adjacent Barnard College (PI. 1; 0, 1), offering an undergraduate
course for women (420 students), &uA.Teachers College (P\. 17,0 1; 830 students),
a professional school of education, although independent corporations
financially, are integral parts of the educational system of the University.
Barnard College has four large buildings and Teachers College has seven.
*Riverside Drive or Park (PL K-0, 1), skirting the hills front-
ing on the Hudson from 72nd St. to 127th St. (ca. 3 M,), affords
beautiful views of the river and is one of the most striking roads
that any city can boast of. It has become, perhaps, the most attrac-
tive residential quarter of New York, though a great architectural
opportunity has been lost in the buildings that border it, these
consisting largely of apartment -hotels, remarkable mainly for
their size. The foundations of many of the buildings had to be
hewn out of the solid rock. Between 73rd aud 74th Sts. is the
large * House of Mr. Schrvah, in the French chateau style of ca. 1500,
68 Route 2. NEW YORK. Grant's Tomb.
containing one of the finest organs in the country. Opposite 89tli
St., finely placed on the bluff overlooking the Hudson (*View), is the
Soldiers and Sailors Monument [PI. L, 1) , designed hy C. W.
Stoughton , A. A. Stoughton, and Paul E. Duboy, and erected in
1902 'to commemorate the valour of the soldiers and sailors who
in the Civil War fought in defence of the Union'. It is in the form
of a small circular Greek temple, resembling the Choragic Monument
of Lysicrates, with a peristyle of 12 Corinthian columns and a frieze
of eagles. The material is white marble. A fine echo may be
awakened inside the monument. In front of the monument is a copy
of Houdon's Statue of Washington (p. 556). The striking brick house,
with white marble facings, en the opposite side of the way is that of
Mr. I. L. Bice. At 99th St. is the Furniss House, an old Colonial
mansion. Adjacent is the Church of St. Michael, with beautiful
chancel decorations by Tiffany. At 106th St. is a statue of General
Franz Sigel (1824-1902), by Karl Bitter.
Near theN. end of the drive, on Claremont Heights ("W. 122nd St.),
is the Tomb of General TJlysses S. Grant (PI. 0, I5 1822-85), a
huge and solid mausoleum of white granite, erected in 1891-97 at
a cost of $ 600,000 (120,000^), from a design by J. H. Duncan. The
monument consists of a lower story in the Doric style, 90 ft. square,
surmounted by a cupola borne by Ionic columns. The total height
is 150 ft. (fine view from the cupola). Adm., see p. 28.
The arrangement of the interior is analogous to that of Napoleon's
tomb at the Hotel des Invalides, and the general effect is much more im-
pressive than the exterior. The red porphyry sarcophagus containing the
body of Gen. Grant (1822-85) is placed in an open crypt below the centre
of the dome; by its side is a similar sarcophagus containing the remains
of his wife. The pendentives of the dome are adorned with alto-reliefs
emblematic of the life of Gen. Grant, by J. Massey Rhind. Two small ad-
joining rooms contain flags of regiments engaged in the Civil War.
Near Grant's tomb is a GingJco Tree (Salisburia adiantifoUa), planted in
his memory by Yang-Yu, representing Li-Hung Chang (tablets in English
and Chinese). The Tomfe of the Amiable Child' (d. 1797), enclosed by a
railing on the edge of Riverside Drive, generally attracts attention.
Park Carriages ply along Riverside Drive from W. 72nd St. to the
Grant Monument and back for a fare of 25 c. (stop-over tickets, available
for any later carriage, issued without extra charge). — The S. end of the
Drive may be reached by the Columbus Ave. surface cars or by the Sixth
Ave. 'Er to 72nd St. (1/2 M.). The N. end of the Drive may be reached
by the cars on i25th St. The 'Seeing New York' automobiles (p. 19) visit
Riverside Drive and Grant's Tomb. Comp. also p. 55.
Visitors to Grant's Tomb may obtain luncheon at the Claremont Hotel
(PI. 0, 1), at the extreme end of Riverside Drive.
To the N. of Riverside Park lies the district of Manhattanville,
containing many old resideaces and the Convent of the Sacred
Heart (PI. P, 2), with its fine grounds. A fine viaduct crossing the
Manhattanville valley leads to a prolongation of the Riverside Drive
on the heights to the N. The Sheltering Arms, at the corner of
Amsterdam Ave. and 129th St., is a refuge for destitute children.
On a commanding site bounded by 138th St., Amsterdam Ave.,
140th St., and St. Nicholas Terrace are the imposing new buildings
Washington Heights. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 69
of the *College of the City of New York (PL P, 2; eomp. p. 53),
erected in 1903-8 by Mr. George B. Post, in the low-arch Gothic
style, at a cost of nearly $5,000,000, and notable for their unifor-
mity of design and symmetry of grouping.
The main building, with its square tower, contains a finely pro-
portioned hall (175 ft. by 90 ft.), wi'h a large mural painting ('Graduation')
by E. H. Blashfleld. The chemical laboratories are especially noteworthy
for the completeness of their equipment. The great hell in the tower
weighs 31/2 tons. The College is maintained by the City of New York, and
tuition is free to its 4000 students. — Close by is the Grange (see below).
In 143rd St., between Amsterdam Ave. and West End Ave., is
the Coloured Orphan Asylum, Between 153rd and 155th Sts., ad-
joining the river, is Trinity Church Cemetery (PI. Q, 1, 2), in two
sections united by a bridge over the Boulevard. This was the scene
of the hardest fighting in the battle of Harlem Heights (Sept. 16th,
1776). — In 156th St., Audubon Park, near Broadway (157th St.
Stat, of Subway), is the *Hispanic Society's Museum (PI. Q, 1 ; adm.,
see p. 29), a tasteful edifice by Chas. Huntington.^ containing Spanish
paintings (Goya, Morales, MurillOjYelazquez, El Greco, YaldesLeal,
etc.), Hispano-Mauresque lustre ware, ecclesiastical vestments,
the original sketches for Yiardot's illustrations to 'Don Quixote',
coins, and a library of 30, 000 vols, on Spanish and Portuguese sub-
jects. The museum was built and endowed by Mr. Archer Huntington.,
to whose generosity the contents are also due. — Adjacent is the
building of the Amer/canIVum2S7nafic Society., by the same architect.
The picturesque district of *"Washington Heights, extending
from about this point to Spuyten Duyvil Creek and from the
Hudson to the Harlem, repays a visit and affords fine views of the
Hudson and the Palisades (p. 83).
This district, which is now a favourite residence quarter, was the ground
of desperate confliets during the Revolutionary period. In Fort Washington
Avenue, between iS2nd and 186th Sts., is a monumental tablet marking
the Bite of Fort TTas/img'foTi (on the highest point of the island, 260 ft. above
the river), which was heroically but unsuccessfully defended against the
British in INov., 1776, after the battle of Harlem Heights. Before and during
the latter battle Washington had his headquarters at the old Jumel House
(16ist St., overlooking the Harlem), then the home of Col. Roger Morris
and his wife (Washington's old love, Mary Phillipse). The house was
afterwards bought by Mme. Jumel, with whom Aaron Burr lived here
'during the days of his octogenarian love', and is now preserved as a
museum, while the ground around it is a public park. The Grange, the
home of Alex. Hamilton, lies at the corner of Tenth Ave. and I4lst St.
Near the house are the relics of the 13 trees planted by Hamilton to sym-
bolize the 13 Original States. The house originally occupied by Audubon,
the naturalist, is on the river, at the foot of 155th St.
At the corner of Eleventh Ave. and 163rd St. is the Institution for the
Instruction of the Deaf and Dumb (5C0 pupils), at 176th St. is the Juvenile
Asylum, and at Amsterdam (Tenth) Ave. and 191st St. is the Isabella Home,
for the aged. The rocky bluff on which the latter stands is known as
Fort George, from a redoubt built here during the Revolution, and has
become a pleasure park [Fort George Hotel & Cafe, with fine view, open
in summer only). The drive known as the Speedway, skirting the river
(comp. p. 23), is continued by the Lafayette Boulevard., under Fort Washington.
The scene here on any fine afternoon is well worth a visit.
70 Route 2. NEW YORK. The Bronx.
*Higli Bridge, crossing the Harlem River at 175tli St., was con-
structed to carry the Croton Aqueduct (see below) across the Harlein ;
it is 1460 ft. long and consists of 13 arches, the highest of which
is 116 ft. The water is carried across in iron pipes protected hy
brick-work, and above is the bridge-way, for walkers only (*yiew).
There is a restaurant at the E. end of the bridge. A good view
is also obtained from the embankment of the Reservoir, at the end
of the bridge, or the adjoining Water Tower. A little farther up,
at 181st St., is the * Washington Bridge, constructed in 1886-90
at a cost of nearly $2,700,000 (540, 000^.). It is of steel, except
the stone abutments and small parts of iron, and has a total length
of 2400 ft., with two central arches, each of 510ft. span. The lower
centre of the arches is 135 ft. above the river.
A convenient way to visit these two bridges is to take the Sixth Ave.
El. Ry. to 155th St. and go thence by the Putnam Division of the X. Y.
C. & H. li. R. R. (without descending to the street ; fare 5c.) to the foot of
High Bridge. We then cross the bridge and walk along the W. bank of the
Harlem to Washington Bridge, whence we return by the Subway (181st St.).
The Central or McComVs Dam Bridge (PI. Q, 3) and the Viaduct connecting
it with the top of Washington Heights (155th St.) are other important
engineering works. The new Henry Hudson Memorial Bridge at Spuyten
Duyvil is to be of reinforced concrete, with an arch 710 ft. in span.
The Water Supply for the Boroujhs of Manhattan and the Bronx
is obtained mainly from the watershed of the Croton River (p. 87). The Old
Croton Aqueduct^ which crosses the High__Bridge (see above), was completed
in 1842 and has a capacity of about 85 million gallons a day. The '-New
Croton Aqueduct^ constructed in 1383-90, at a cost of about S 20,000,000
(4,000,000^.) and at an average depth of 150 ft. below the surface, is
carried under the Harlem River in a tunnel about 300 ft. below the
river-bed, and has an estimated daily capacity of about 295 million gallons.
Both aqueducts discharge their waters into the Jerome Park Reservoir
(p. 71) and into Central Park Reservoir (p. 55; capacity 1,000,000,000 gal-
lons). The iron mains distributing this water have an aggregate length
of 1100 M. The Nexo Croton Dam, 1 M. to the E. of Qualcer Bridge, is 2168 ft.
long, 297 ft. high, and 206 ft. wide at the hase. — For the new system of
waterworks now in construction (Ashokan Reservoir, etc.), see p. 101.
A Ship Canal, constructed to impi-ove the navigation of the Harlem
River (which is simply a tidal channel), affords access from Long Island
Sound to the Hudson River for vessels of small draught.
The Borough of the Bronx, or that part of New York to the N.
and E. of the Harlem, takes its name from the small river Bronx, and
includes Morrisania (perpetuating the name of Gouverneur Morris),
West Farms, Fordham, Matt Haven, WilUamsbridge (a favourite Sun.
resort of French residents), and several other villages now incorpo-
rated with the city. The Bronx is traversed by several lines of tram-
ways, by the Elevated Railroad (p. 16), by the Subway (p. 17), and
by the New York Central and New Haven & Hartford railroads (p. 10).
Among the large new park-spaces here are Van Cortlandt Park
(1130 acres), Bronx Park (660 acres), Crotona Park (155 acres),
and Pelham Bay Park (1755 acres), adjoining Long Island Sound,
4 M. to the E. of Bronx Park and 15 M. from the City Hall. All these
are connected by boulevards. — In Van Cortlandt Park is the *Van
Cortlandt Mansion, built in 1748 and now titted up as a Museum
Zool. Gardens. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 71
of Colonial and Eevolntionary Relics (open daily, 10-6, in winter
10-5 ; Snn., 2-6 ; adm. 25 c. on Thnrs,, free on other days). — The
S. part of Bronx Park is occupied hy the grounds of the *New York
Zoological Society (adm., see p. 29), with an area of 260 acres
(London Zoological Garden, 36 acres).
The primary object of this society is to secure herds of large IT.
American quadrupeds and to place them as far as possible in surround-
ings resembling their natural haunts. Thus the bisons have a range of
15 acres, the wapiti 15 acres, the deer 8 acres. Among other novel features
is the eflfort to make the animals accessible to artists and students, and
several studios have been provided in the larger buildings. Among the
important points are the Reptile Rouse^ the Lion House ^ the Monkey House
(well ventilated), the Antelope House, the Bear Dens, and the so-called Flying
Cage (aquatic birds; 152ft. long, 72 ft. wide, and 55ft. high). In the Ad-
ministration Building is a fine collection of heads and horns. One of the
natural features in the Zoo is a granite boulder weighing 30 tons but easily
moved by hand. — The Zoo contains a restaurant.
The Botanical Gardens (adm., see p. 28), at the I^. end of Bronx Park,
contain extensive greenhouses, three small lakes, and a large museum
known as the Horticultural House.
Bronx Park is reached by the Subway (pp. 16, 17), by the Third Ave.
El.R.R. (Pelham Avenue), or by the Harlem Division of the New York
Central R. R. to Bronx Park (5 c), near the Horticultural House, or to
Fordham, about 3/4 M. from the Zoo (carriages in waiting in summer).
Jerome Avenue, heginning at McComh's Dam Bridge (p. 70), and
Westchester Avenue (PI. Q, 5) are favourite drives (comp. p. 23). The
former runs past the new Jerome Park Reservoir (IV2 ^' ^7 1 M.),
with a capacity of 2,000,000,000 gallons. The Geanb Boi£lbvae,d&
Concourse (180 ft. wide), uniting Manhattan and the parks in the
N. .part of the Bronx, begins at the corner of Mott Ave. and 161st St.
and extends thence to (41/2 M.) the Mosholu Parkway , connecting
Bronx Park with Van Cortlandt Park. At the heginning of the Boule-
vard is the Lorelei Fountain, commemorating Heinrich Heiae.
The Islands in the East River contain various charitable and cor-
rectional institutions belonging to the city or the state, permission to visit
which may be obtained from the Commissioners of Public Charities, at the
foot of E. 26th St. (ferry). BlackwelVs Island (PI. H-K, 5), 120 acres in
extent, is a long narrow island, extending from about 50th St. to 86th St.,
and containing the Penitentiary, Female Lunatic Asylum, Workhouse,
Alms Houses, Blind Asylum, and Charity Hospitals. To be 'sent to the
Island' is the New York euphemism for committal to the Penitentiary.
Ward''s Island (PI. M, N, 5; 200 acres), opposite ilOth St., has the Manhattan
State Lunatic Asylum, the State Emigrant Hospital, Houses of Refuge, a
Children's Home, and a Soldiers' Home. Ward's Island is separated from
Astoria and Blackwell's Island by Hell Gate (PI. M, 5), a sharp bend in the
river, through which the water rushes at a great rate. The sunken reefs
which formerly made it highly dangerous to navigation were removed by
nitro- glycerine explosions in 1876 and 1885. On RandalVs Island (PI. N, O, 5),
to the N. of Ward's and opposite the Harlem River, are the Idiot Asylum,
a House of Refuge, and the Nursery, Children's, and Infants' Hospitals.
Excursions are also made to various islands in New York Harbour
(comp. p. 2).
(1.) LiBEBTT or Bedloe's Islakd (frequent steamers from the Battery
in a few minutes, comp. p. 33; return-fare 25 c.). The 'Statue of Liberty,
on Liberty or Bedloe's Island, presented to the United States by the
French Republic, in commemoration of the 100th anniversary of the
Declaration of Independence, was designed by Auguste Bartholdi and erect-
Baedekeb's United States. 4th Edit. 5
72 Route 2. NEW YORK. Environs.
ed in 1886. It is 151 ft. high (to the top of the torch), is made of copper
and iron, and weighs 225 tons. The granite pedestal on which it stands,
designed by R. M. Hunt, is 155 ft. high and was contributed by citizens
of the United States. A stairway ascends inside the figure to the head,
which can accommodate 40 persons and commands a magnificent *View
of New York and its vicinity (nearly as good from the first balcony). At
night the torch is lit by electricity. Near the base of the statue is a
tablet with an appropriate sonnet by Miss Emma Lazarus.
(2.) Ellis Island (steamers hourly from the Barge Office, p. 33;
free). The trip to the immigrant-station on *Ellis Island forms one of the
most interesting and suggestive experiences open to the visitor o New
York. All are received with courtesy and are shown the chief points
of interest by a guide appointed for the purpose. The original island
was little more than an acre in extent but has since been increased by
artificial means to an area of 11 acres. The numerous buildings include
a very up-to-date hospital, completed in 1908. About 3000 immigrants land
here every day (comp. p. 3), and are looked after by about 940 officials
and employees under Mr. Robert Watchorn, Commissioner of Immigration.
The arrangements for the reception of the polyglot immigrants and for
forwarding them to their final destinations are of the most complete,
ingeniou , and efficient character. The entire expense, including construc-
tion and repairs, is defrayed by the proceeds of a head-tax of $ 4 per alien.
(3.) GovE nob's Islakd (steamers, see p. 19). Comp. p. 2.
Environs of New York.
(1.) Staten Island (ferry from Whitehall St. to St. George in V4-V2 tr. :
fare to St. George 5 c., thence to any other station between Erastina and
South Beach 5c.). — Staten Island, on the S. side of New York Harbour,
separated from New Jersey by the Staten Island Sound or Arthur's Kill and
the Kill van Kull and from Long Island by the Narrows (p. 2), has an area of
about 70 sq. M. and (1905) 72,^5 inhabitants. It is conterminous with the
Borough of Richmond (p. 30). The surface of the island is diversified and
hilly (highest point, 415 ft.), and it is dotted with small villages and the
villas of New Yorkers. The hills afford good views of New York Harbour
and the ocean. Among the best of its fine drives is the Richmond Terrace^
skirting the N. shore. From St. George (St. George Hotel) railways (Staten
Island Rapid Transit) run to the W. along the N. shore, to the S.E. to Fort
Wadsworth and South Beach^ and to the S. to Tottenville, diverging from the
South Beach line at Clifton. The first-mentioned line passes (1 M.) New
Brighton, the largest village in the island, with numerous villas and hotels ;
13/4 M. Sailors'" Smig Harbor, with a large Seamen's Asylum (1000 inmates ;
income $ 400,000), on the lawn of which is a fine statue of its founder R. E.
Randall, by Saint-Gaudens ; 2V2M. Livii2gston, with the Staten Island Cricket
Club, the Staten Island Athletic Club, etc.; 4 M. Port Richmond, with
the house (now a hotel), in which Aaron Burr died in 1836 ; 51/2 M.
Erastina or Mariner''s Harbor (Bayside), with the pleasure-resort called
the Erastina Grove. Beyond Erastina the railway crosses the Sound to
New Jersey. — At (1 M.) TompkinsvilU (Nautilus), on the Soxith Beach line,
are the headquarters of the Seawanhaka Yacht Club (p. 23); 1^4 M.
Stapleton, the birthplace of Commodore Cornelius Vanderbilt (1794-1877),
who took the first step towards amassing his huge fortune by starting a
ferry to New York ; 2'/2 M. Clifton, with a small wooden house once oc-
cupied bv Garibaldi (ca. 1850) and now protected by a cement superstruc-
ture; 31/2 M. Fort Wadsworth (p. 2); 41/2 M. Arrochar (Arrochar Park Hotel);
51/2 M. South or Richmond Beach, with a hospital for crippled children. —
The longest line is that running S. to Tottenville. Beyond Clifton (see
above) it passes (6 M.) Orant City (Atlantic Inn), with the mausolea of the
Vanderbilt family; 9V2 M. 6i fords, a fishing-resort ; 11 M. Woods of Arden,
with picnic grounds; 13 M. Princess Bay, another fishing-place; 16 M.
Tottenville (Excelsior Hotel), with the old Billopp House (ca. 1670), where
Gen. Howe met Franklin and John Adams after the battle of Long Island
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Environs. NEW YORK. 2. Route. 73
(p. 75). Tottenville is connected by ferry with Ferth Arriboy (p. 176). —
Electric Tramways, mostly starting at St. George, also traverse the island
in various directions (to Prohibition Park^ Midland Beach, etc.).
(2.) New Jeeset Shoee. The cities on the right bank of the Hudson
or N. River, immediately opposite New York, though practically forming
part of that city, are in a different state (New Jersey) and under inde-
pendent government. They offer little of special interest for the tourist.
Ferries, see p. 19. — Jersey Gitj {Hotel Washington, R. from $ 1), the southern-
most and largest, with a population of (1905) 232,699, contains many glass-
works, sugar-refineries, machine-shops, foundries, and other industrial
establishments, the stations of several of the railways centring at New York
(comp. p. 10), and the docks of a few of the Transatlantic steamship com-
panies. With the exception of a few churches, the People's Palace (1905),
and the city-hall, it has almost no handsome buildings. On the roof of
Colgate''s Soap Factory is a clock-dial 38 ft. in diameter. — To the N. of
Jersey City lies Hoboken {Meyer's Hotel, $ 21/2-3, R. from $ 1 ; NageWs Hotel,
$ 21/2-4, R. from 5 IVz)^ iiow connected with New York by electric cars
running below the Hudson (pp. 10, 54). It has important silk-factories and
(1905) 65,468 inhab., a large proportion of whom are Germans, and
also contains the wharves of some of the European steamships. Stevens
Park, on the river, contains the Stevens Institute, a polytechnic school of
good reputation. Castle Stevens, the house of its founder, the late Commo-
dore Stevens, is on the hill above. Farther to the N. lies Weehawken, with
(1905) 8027 inhabitants. It was the scene of the duel between Alex. Hamil-
ton and Aaron Burr ; and the boulder on which the former fell when shot
is railed in on the edge of the bluff, to which it was carried up from the
scene of the duel below. On it is a bust of Hamilton. An electric tram-
way runs hence along the Palisades (fine views) to Hudson Heights (5 c.),
Edgewater (10 c), i^'ort iee (see below), Linwood or Coyiesville {20c.), and
Englewood (see below). — Outtenherg (4565 inhab.), on the hill behind
Weehawken, has a large brewery, with a beer-garden on the rooi. — Fort Lee,
on the site of the revolutionary fort of that name, at the point where the
higher part of the Palisades (p. 83) begins, nearly opposite 170th St., now
belongs to an Association, which has built a hotel and pavilion and laid
out the small Palisades Park. Boating and bathing are among the attrac-
tions. It is reached by ferry from Canal St. (15 c), or by ferry from iSOth
St. to Edgewater (see above) and thence (I1/2 M.) by electric car. The car-ride
may be extended to the N. to Englewood (Palisade Ho., Park Hotel, $2),
(3.) Brooklyn, Coney Island, and other resorts on Long Island, see R. 3.
Among other points to which excursions are easily made from New
York are Long Branch and the other seaside resorts of the New Jersey
coast (see R. 18); Yonkers, Dobbs Ferry, Tarrytown, and other points on
the Hudson (see R. 4); New Rochelle, and other places on Long Island
Sound (R. 30); and Greenwood Lake (p. 142).
Fbom New Yokk to Putnam Junction (Bbewstee), 54 M., railway
(Putnam Division of N. Y. C. d; H. R. R. R.) in 2-2V4 hrs. This line, passing
the suburban resorts of WestcTiester County, begins at the 155th St. station
of the Sixth Ave. Elevated Railroad (comp. p. 70). — 1 M. High Bridge
(p. 70); 2 M. Morris Heights. — 21/2 M. University Heights, with the hand-
some new buildings of New York TJniversity (comp. p. 46). These build-
ings, splendidly situated on a high bluff commanding a fine view of the
Harlem, the Hudson, the Palisades, and Long Island Sound, include a
beautiful 'Library, designed by Stanford White (85,000 vols. ; especially
rich in Oriental and Germanic literature), a Hall of Languages, a Chemical
Laboratory, a gymnasium, etc. The Hall of Fame for Great Americans,
presented by Miss Helen Gould and half encircling the library, contains
panels with the names of distinguished Americans. The first five selected
were Washington, Lincoln, Webster, Franklin, and Grant; Emma Willard,
Mary Lyon, and Maria Mitchell represent women. The university, which
was founded in 1830 as an undenominational corporation on a liberal
basis, is now attended by 4(XX) students, taught by 215 instructors. Near
the university, at the corner of Sedgwick Ave. and 188th St., is Webb^s
Academy & Home for Shipbuilders. In Kingsbridge Road, Fordham, is a
5*
74 Route 2. NEW YORK. Environs.
cottage in which E. A. Poe lived from 1844 to 1849 and wrote 'Ulalume',
'Annabel Lee', etc. — 5 M. Van Corilandt, the station for Van Cortlandt
Park (p. 70), is the junction of a branch-line to (3 M.) Yonkers (p. 86). — At
(8 M.) Dunwoodie^ with a large Roman Catholic college, we pass over the
Croton Aqueduct (p. 70). — 13 M. Mt. Hope^ with a well-known golf-club.
— 2IV2 M. Tarrytown (p. 8O5 23 M. Pocantico Hills (Berkeley Inn); 27 M.
Briar cliff Manor (Briarcliff Lodge). At (33V2 M.) Croton Lake we cross the
lake by a lofty bridge. 42 M. Baldwin Place, the junction for (2 M.) Ma-
hopac Falls; 45 M. Lake Mahopac (Dean House, $ SVz), a summer-resort;
491/2 M. Carmel, on Lake Gleneida. At (54 M.) Putnam Junction (Brewster)
we join the line described below.
From New Yokk to Chatham, 127 M., railway (Harlem Division of
N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R.) in 3»/2-4V2 hrs. — From Kew York to (12 M.) Wood-
lawn, see R. 30 a. Our line crosses the boundary of Greater New York
(p, 29) and follows the course of the Bronx River (to the left). 15^/2 M.
Bronxville (Gramatan Hotel, a large house open throughout the year, from
§4); 221/2 M. White Plains. 25 M. Kensico , near Lake Eensico, is to be
the site of the huge storage reservoir (4,000,000,00) gallons) to be erected
in connection with the new Ashokan Dam (p. 101) of the New York water
supply. 37 M. Mt. Kisco; 44 M. Golden^s Bridge, the junction of a line
to (7 M.) Lake Mahopac (see above) ; 52 M. Brewster, junction of the N. H. R. R.
to Hartford (see p. 239); 76 M. Dover Plains. — 8S M. Sharon, a pretty New
England village, where Burgoynes soldiers were interned after the battle
of Saratoga (p. 120). It is the seat of a Moravian Colony. — 92^/2 M. Miller-
ton (p. 87); 1041/2 M. Copake Iron Works, 5 M. from Mt. Everett (p. 338).
At (127 M.) Chatham we reach the Boston & Albany R. R. (see p. 334).
3. Brooklyn and Long Island.
Coney Island. Rockaway Beach.
Brooklyn. — Railway stations. Flatlush Avenue Station (PI. D, 3),
Flatbush Ave., cor. Atlantic and Nostrand Aves., and Bushunck Station, for
the Long Island Railroad.
Hotels. St. Geokge (PI. a-, C, 1), 51 Clark St., $ 3-5, R. from $1;
Margaket (PI. b; C, 1), 97 Columbia Heights, from $ 31/2; Mansion House
(PI. c; C, 2), 137-153 Hicks St., Brooklyn Heights, $ 3-5, all near Brooklyn
Bridge; Clarendon, Washington St., R. from § I1/2; Beevoobt, Bedford
Ave.; Cakleton, 8th St., R. from $1.
Restaurants at the hotels; also, Parker's, Willoughby St. (PI. C, D, 2) ;
Silsbes, 629 Fulton St., Dennett's, Childs", 355 and 368 Fulton St. (comp.
p. 14); EdgetCs, 556 Fulton St.
Elevated Railroads. Several lines of Elevated Railway, similar to
those in New York (p. 15), traverse Brooklyn in various directions (fare
5c.). Four of these begin at the New York end of Brooklyn Bridge (with
branches to Fulton Ferry), and two start at the foot of Broadway (opp.
Grand St., New York). Comp. p. 16. — Subway, see p. 16. — Bridge Cars,
see pp. 16, 40. — Ferries to New York, see p. 19.
Tramways, propelled by electricity ('trolley lines'), traverse Brooklyn
in all directions and extend to the Ocean resorts at Coney Island, etc.
Most of them now start at the New York end of the Brooklyn Bridge
(p. 40), the toll for crossing which is included in the fare of 5 c.
Post Office, see p. 75.
Brooklyn, with a population (1905) of 1,358,686, was formerly
the fourth city of the United States in size and industrial interest,
but now forms one of the boroughs of Greater New York (see p. 30).
It lies immediately opposite New York, at the W. end of Long Is-
land, and covers an area of about 65 sq. M. It is popularly known
as the 'City of Churches', containing no fewer than 600 ecclesiastical
residences have been sunk into the front of these hlnffs, forming
a series of unique 'cave dwellings'. The chief street of the 'Heights'
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land, and covers an 'area ofaboiit b5 sq. M. "^t'is popularly known
as the 'City of Churclies', containing no fewer than 600 ecclesiastical
Brooklyn Heights. BROOKLYN. 3. Routt. 75
edifices, and has also been called the 'Dormitory of New York' from
the fact that so many of its residents are New York business men
and women, returning to Brooklyn in the evening.
Brooklyn (Breuckelen) was founded by Walloons in 1623, the first set-
tlement being near Wallabout Bay (p. 76). The most outstanding event
in its history is the battle of Long Island (Aug. 26th, 1776), fought on the
heights behind the town, in which the British defeated the Americans
(see p. 77). It was incorporated as a town in 1788, when its population did
not exceed 1500. and as a city in 1834 (pop. abnnt 30,000). — The annual
value of Brooklyn's manufactures is about $ 300,000,000 (60,000,000^.). They
include sugar and oil refining, ship-building, meat-packing, and the making
of chemicals, cordage, carpets, and boilers. Its commerce is also very im-
portant. In 1890 Brooklyn contained 833,54:7 inhabitants. — King's 'Views
of Brooklyn' ($ IV2) resembles his New York book (p. 28).
Fulton Street (PI. C-F, 2, 3), the Broadway of Brooklyn,
begins at Fnlton Ferry (p. 19), almost under the shadow of Brook-
lyn Bridge, and runs hence first to the S. and then to the E., with
a total length of 6 M. It is traversed by the Elevated Railroad and
several tramways. Following it from the bridge or ferry, we soon
reach (10 min.) an open space in front of the Borough Hall (PI. C, 2),
a white marble building, with an Ionic portico and a tower. Oppo-
site is a spirited statue of Henry Ward Beecher (see p. 76) , by
J. Q. A. "Ward. To the S. of Borough Hall, in Joralemon St., is
the Municipal Department Building, to the E. of which stand the
County Court House (PL C, 2), an edifice in a Corinthian style, and
the Hall of Records (recently heightened and enlarged). Behind
the Court House, facing Livingston St., is the Polytechnic Institute
(PI. C, 2). At the corner of Washington St. and Johnson St., a
little to the N. of Borough Hall Square, is the *Post Office (PI. C, 2),
a really fine building, but not seen to advantage. Adjacent is the
tall building of the Brooklyn Daily Eagle, a model newspaper office,
to which visitors are welcome (large Information Bureau).
From Borough Hall Square Montague Stkeet (PI. C, 2) leads W.
to the river, ending in a terrace which commands an excellent
*View of New York and the harbour. This street contains the Art
Association Building (exhibitions of pictures), and the Reference
Department of the Brooklyn Public Library, which has 28 branches
and possesses ca. 550,000 vols. The district in which we now find
ourselves, known as * Brooklyn Heights, is the pleasantest part of
the city and contains many of the finest residences. In this quarter
are the chief hotels mentioned at p. 74, numerous large apartment
houses, and many of the leading clubs (Brooklyn, Crescent Athletic,
Excelsior, Germania, Hamilton, Jefi"erson, PI. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 65 C, 2).
In front of the Hamilton Club (cor. Remsen and Clinton Sts.) is a
Statue of Alex Hamilton, by W. 0. Partridge (1898). The 'Heights'
(PI. C, 1) rise abruptly from the river to an elevation of 70-100 ft.,
leaving at their base room for a single narrow street. Stores and
residences have been sunk into the front of these bluffs, forming
a series of unique 'cave dwellings'. The chief street of the 'Heights'
76 Route 3. BROOKLYN. Plymouth Church.
and a fashionable Snnday promenade is Clinton Stueet (PI. 0, B,
2-5), extending from Fnlton St. (crossing Montague St.) to Gowanus
Bay. In tMs street, at the corner of Pierrepont St. (the street before
Montagne St.), is the handsome building of the Long Island
Historical Society (PI. C, 2), which possesses a library of 75,000 yoIs.
and a small mnseum. In Pierrepont St. are the Dutch Reformed
Church (PI. C, 2) and the Unitarian Church of the Saviour (cor. of
Monroe Place; PI. C, 2). At the corner of Montagne St. is Holy
Trinity Church (PI. C, 2), the leading Episcopal chnrch of Brooklyn
(good music). In Remsen St., the next cross-street, at the corner of
Henry St. , is the Congregational Church of the Pilgrims (PI. C, 2),
with a piece of the original 'Plymouth Rock' (see p. 276) immured
in its facade. A little farther on in Clinton St., at the corner of
Livingston St. (left), is the Church of St. Ann (Episcopal ; PI. C, 2).
Clinton St. then crosses Atlantic Avenue (PI. B-F, 2-4), a wide
and busy street descending on the right to the ferry for "Whitehall
St., New York (p. 19).
Pljrmouth Chnrch (PI. C, 1), the most famous ecclesiastical
edifice in Brooklyn, where Henry Ward Beecher (d. 1887) drew
crowds for 40 years, stands at the N. end of the Heights, in Orange
St., between Hicks St. and Henry St., % M. from Brooklyn Bridge.
It is a large building without architectural pretensions.
Returning to Borough Hall and continuing to follow Fulton St.
towards the E., we soon reach, at the corner of Bond St. (right),
the building of the Young Men's Christian Association (PI. D, 2),
with a fine gymnasium. At St. Felix St., V2 ^- farther on, is the
new Academy of Music (PI. D, 3), a notable example of polychromatic
brick architecture, opened in 1908. Fort Greene Place, just beyond
this point, leads to the left to the small (3 min.) Fort Greene Park
(PI. D, E, 2), laid out on the site of the Revolutionary earthworks
known as Fort Greene and containing a statue of General Fowler
and a monument erected in 1908 to the memory of the prison-ship
martyrs. Clinton Avenue (PL E, 1-3), nine blocks farther on, is,
perhaps, the handsomest street in Brooklyn.
In Ryerson St., between "Willoughby and De Kalb Avenues, about
'A M. to the E. of Clinton Ave., are the extensive buildings of the *Pratt
Institute (PI. F, 2), one of the best equipped technical institutions in the
country, founded and endowed in 1884-87 by Mr. Charles Pratt, 'to promote
manual and industrial education, and to inculcate habits of industry and
thrift'. Its schools of fine and applied arts, technology, domestic science
and arts, library training, etc., are attended by 3800 students. Visitors are
admitted on Hon., Wed., & Frid., 10-12, 2-4, and 7.30-9. The Library
contains 90,000 vols, and a large collection of prints and photographs. All
interested in technical education should visit this institution (appointment
made on written application; schools closed, June 1st to Oct. Ist).
Clinton Avenue ends on theN. at the TI.S. Navy Yard (Pl.D, E, 1)
on WallaboutBay, the chief naval station in the country, employing
4000 men (open on week-days, 9-5 ; adm. on Sun. and holidays by
pass obtained from the Captain of the Yard ; entr. in Navy St., op-
posite Sands St.). The yard covers 197 acres, of which 68 are water.
Prospect Park. BROOKLYN. 3. Route. 77
Among the most prominent features of the yard are three Dry Docks,
326 ft., 442 ft., and 595 ft. long respectively. Some war -vessels
are generally moored here, while others are on the stocks. To the
E. is the V. 8. Naval Hospital (PI. F, 1), with its pillared front. —
Between the Navy Yard and the Hospital is the immense Wallabout
Market (PI. E, F, 1). Its hrick buildings, in the Dntch style, in-
clude a quaint clock-tower.
The largest of the Docks of Brooklyn ia the Atlantic Basin (PI. A, B, 3),
IV2 M. to the S. of the Bridge, with an area of 40 acres and 2 M. of wharfage.
The Erie Docks (PL A, 5) lie 3/4 M. farther to the S., on Gowanus Bay.
Perhaps Brooklyn's chief attraction for strangers is the heautiful
*Prospect Park (PI. D, E, F, 4-7), finely situated on an elevated ridge
in the S.W. part of the city and commanding excellent views of
Brooklyn, New York, the harhour, the ocean, and Long Island.
The principal entrance is at the end of Flathush Ave. (PI. E, 4; tramway
from Fulton Ferry), and the Plaza in front of it is adorned with a '^'Memorial
Arch for soldiers and sailors of the Civil War, surmounted by a fine
quadriga and flanked with groups rep'-esenting the Army and Navy, by
Fred. MaeMonnies (b. at Brooklyn in 1864), and with fine statues, both also
by MaeMonnies, of James Stranahan (1808-98) and General Slocum (1827-94),
Drive through the park in the park-carriages 25 e. each. The water-tower
near the main entrance furnishes the finest view of the city and island.
Prospect Park, which has an area of 520 acres, is not so elaborately
laid out as Central Park, but has, perhaps, more natural beauty. It con-
tains many fine trees. The lake at the S. side is 60 acres in extent.
On the slope of Look-Out Hill (185 ft. above the sea) is a Monument (erected
in 1895) in memory of the Maryland troops who fell in the battle of Long
Island (p. 75), which is also commemorated by a tablet in Battle Pass.
Concerts are given here on Sat. and Sun. afternoons in summer. In other
parts of the park are a bust of John Howard Payne (1792-1852; comp. pp 81,
227), author of 'Home, Sweet Home' (p. 165), statues of Lincoln and Gen.
G. K. Warren^ and several other monuments. — From the Plaza the Eastern
Parkway (PI. E, F, 4, 5), a fine boulevard, 200 ft. wide, runs E. to the
(21/2 M.) part of Brooklyn known as East New York. Near the S. entrance
begins the * Ocean Parkway (PI. F, E, 6, 7), a similar boulevard, which runs
all the way to (5 M.) Coney Island (p. 79) and forms one of the pleasantest
approaches to that resort. It is flanked on either side by a broad cycle-
path. The *Drive from Prospect Park to Fort Hamilton (p. 2; 41/2 M.;
Crescent Club House) affords continuous views of New York Harbour.
On the opposite side of Flatbush Ave. (see above) lies the Institute
Park, 58 acres in extent and opened to the public in 1903.
Ninth Avenue (or Prospect Park "West, PI. E, D, 4-6) and other streets
adjoining Prospect Park contain some of the finest residences in Brooklyn.
Among the largest and handsomest buildings bordering on the Park are
the huge Riding and Driving Club (near the Plaza ; PI. E, 4) and the Mon-
tauk Club (cor. 8th Ave.; PI. E, 4).
The Brooklyn Institute of Arts and Sciences (PL F , 4),
founded in 1824 and rechartered in 1890, is an academy of arts
and sciences with about 7000 members. It contains 29 depart-
ments, each of which holds regular meetings and courses of lectures.
A grant of 12 acres of land in Institute Park (see jibove) has been
made to the Institute, which has erected on it three sections (1897,
1903, and 1907) of a large Museum building, which is intended
ultimately to be 560 ft. square. This building (open 9-6, Sun. 2-6,
also on Thurs. 7.30-9.45 ; adm. on Mon. & Tues. 25 c, children 10 c. ;
78 Route 3. BROOKLYN. Greenwood Cem.
at other times free) contains lectnre-lialls, class-rooms, laboratories,
and collections of Fine Arts, Ethnology, and Natural History. The
statues on the exterior, representing the genins of the Classical and
Oriental peoples, were executed under the general direction of Dan.
C. French. The Children's Museum at Bedford Park is open free,
daily, 9-6 (Sun. 2-6). The larger part of the educational work of the
Institute is conducted in the Academy of Music Building (p. 76).
Following Ninth Avenue towards the S. from the S.W. entrance
of Prospect Park, we soon reach (V2M.) the N.E. entrance of *Green-
wood Cemetery (PI. B, C, D, 6, 7), one of the most beautiful cities of
the dead in America, rivalling Prospect Park in the charms of its
undulating surface and extensive views. It is 475 acres in extent.
Carriages take passengers round the chief points for 25 c. each.
The principal CN.) entrance is in Fifth Ave. (cor. 25th St. ; PI. C, 6), The
entrance gateway is an elaborate structure of brown stone , 142 ft. wide,
with bas-reliefs and a tower 100 ft. high. Plans of the cemetery may
be obtained here (10 c), showing the positions of the graves. Among the
monuments of special interest, either from their subject or treatment,
are those to the Ifew York Volunteers (Section H), Roger Williams (p. 244;
Sec. 130), Be Witt Clinton (p. 92 ; 108), Elias P. Howe (the inventor of the
sewing machine; H), S. F. B. Morse (p. 274; 25), Henry George (1839-97),
the founder of the 'Single Tax' movement (at the top of Ocean Hill), the
magnificent mausoleum of John W. McKay, Horace Greeley (p. 39; 35), Henry
Ward Beecher (p. 76; 140), Lola Montez, John Matthews (64), the JHlots (iii),
the Firemen (2), Peter Cooper (p. 42 ; 101), A. S. Scrilmer (160), James Gordon
Bennett (107), Charlotte Canda (92), and the Brooklyn Theatre Fire Victims (X).
One of the chief attractions of Greenwood is the beauty of the blossoming
of the A.og-woodi (Corrnis Florida) at the end of May or beginning of June.
Among other points of more or less interest not included in the
above rapid survey are the Roman Catholic Cathedral (PI. E, 3),
Clermont Ave., near Greene Ave. ; the Equestrian Statue of General
TJ. S. Grant (p. 68), by "W. 0. Partridge, in front of the Union League
Club, Bedford Ave. (1896; beyond P1.F,4); the Fire Headquarters,
in Jay St. (Pl.D, 1,2); the Armouries of the 14th and 23rd Regi-
ments, in Eighth Ave. (Pl.D, 5) and Bedford Ave. (beyond PI. F, 3);
the Long Island College Hospital and St. Peter's Hospital (PI. C, 2, 3), in
Henry St, ; St. Mary's Hospital, in Buffalo Ave.; the Bedford Library,
Bedford Ave. (90,000 vols.); the Roman Catholic church of St. Augustine
(PL E,4), cor. Sixth Ave. and Sterling Place; the Reformed Church
(PI. D, E, 4), cor. Seventh Ave. and Carroll St.; the YoungWomen^s
Christian Association (PI. D, 3), cor. Flatbush Ave. and Schermer-
horn St. ; and the Cemetery of the Evergreens (beyond PI. F, 3).
Brooklyn Forest Park, in the N.E. part of the borough, is 540 acres
in area and deserves a visit for its fine trees and beautiful views.
To the i^. of Brooklvn, and separated from it by Newtown Creek, lies
Long Island City {Long Island City Hotel, R. from § 1), with (1900) 48,272 in-
habitants. It is made up of Hunter s Point, Astoria, and Ravenswood, the
last of which contains pleasant residences and extensive nurseries. In
Hunter's Point (ferry to 34th St., New York) is the terminus of the Long
Island Railroad (trains for all points in Long Island; comp. PI. G, 5). Long
Island City and adjncent points will some day also be reached from New
York (Manhattan) by electric trains running through the so-called Belmont
Tunnel (PI. G, 1, 2), which begins at the foot of E. 42nd St.
Coney Island. LONG ISLAND. 3. Route. 79
Long Island) a narrow, fish-shaped island, 120 M. long and
8-20 M. wide, extends along the coast of New York and Connecticut
from the month of the Hndson to a point heyond the month of the
Connecticut River, enclosing hetween itself and the mainland the
comparatively sheltered waterway of Long Island Sound (p. 247).
Its area is 1680 sq. M. and its population (1905) 1,788,056 (incl.
Brooklyn). The^ surface is generally level. A sandy harrier, at some
distance from the main shore, extends along nearly the whole S.
coast of the island, broken at intervals hy narrow inlets; and here
are situated Coney Island and other popular seaside-resorts of the
New Yorkers. The N. shore is hilly and well-wooded. In the E.
part of the island are several summer-resorts of a higher class than
Coney Island, affording good sea-hathing, sailing, fishing, shooting,
and golfing. Some of the oldest settlements in the state are on
Long Island, and the historical student will find many points of
interest. Comp. the annual guidebook of the Long Island Railroad.
Coney Island, the name given to the weaternmost section of the
flat sand-bar above mentioned, is a strip of white sand, 5 M. long
and 1/4-I M. wide, separated from the mainland by a small creek and
from the next section of the bar (Rockaway Beach) by a narrow inlet
opening into Jamaica Bay. The island is divided into four distinct parts :
West Eyid., West Brighton, Brighton Beach., and Manhattan Beach. Those who
m.erely wish to see Coney Island for a few hours should go to West
Brighton and return via Manhattan Beach. The hotels at the latter are the
best places to pass the night. It is estimated that at least 10 million visitors
resort to Coney Island every season (June-Sept.), and 100,000-200,000 are
sometimes there on the siame day. The prices at the hotels and restaurant?
are highest at the E. end, and lowest at the W. end of the island.
West End or Norton's Point CNorton's Hotel), the old original Coney
Island, now known as Sea Gate, has a number of pleasant residences and
the headquarters of the Atlantic Yacht Club. It is connected with Brigh-
ton and West Brighton by electric cars.
West Brighton, about the middle of the island, is the most crowded
and characteristic part of it; and the scene here on a fine Sunday in
summer beggars description. The beach swarms with all the peripatetic
shows of a popular seaside-resort ; and among the permanent attractions
are two iron Piers (1100-1300 ft. long), Luna Park (fine illuminations at
night; 600,000 electric lights). Dreamland, and a tall '■Observatory'' (*View).
West Brighton may be reached from li{&\7 York by steamer from Pier 1
(at the Battery) or from W. 22nd St. (return- fare 25 c); from Brooklyn,
by electric car, by the Brooklyn Elevated E,. B., or by the Ocean Parkway
(p. 77). It is connected with (3/4 M.) Brighton Beach by a fine drive called
the Concourse and by an elevated railroad (5 c).
Brighton Beach (Brighton Beach Hotel) consists of a huge hotel, a refresh-
ment pavilion, several bathing- houses, and a theatre, in which variety
actors perform in summer. It is specially frequented by the Brooklynites,
who reach it via West Brighton (see above) or by direct trolley- lines. Brigh-
ton Beach is connected with Manhattan Beach (see below) by a small Marine
Railway (5 c); a barrier prevents walking along the sands.
Manhattan Beach {Manhattan Beach Hotel, E. $ 2-5, a huge wooden
structure; Oriental, from $ 5, for more permanent guests) is the most
fashionable part of Coney Island and the most comfortable for ordinary
tastes. The hotels have large pleasure-grounds and bathing accommoda-
tions for many hundreds of visitors (adm. to amphitheatre overlooking
the Manhattan bathing enclosure, 10 c), and good bands play afternoon
and evening. The beach is illuminated by electricity, and a display of
80 Route 3. LONG ISLAND. Long Beach.
fireworks is given almost nightly. Manhattan Beach may be reached from
New York by ferry to Hunter's Point (see p. 19) and thence by train; from
the Flatbush Ave. station at Brooklyn (return- fare 20 c.) ; or by electric
cars from Brooklyn Bridge and from Broadway and Fulton St. Ferries.
Hockaway Beach (numerous hotels, at about $ 2 a day), the next
section of the sand-bar, is a less crowded and somewhat cheaper edition
of Coney Island. The trip to it from New York by steamer (ii/2 hr. ; re-
turn-fare 50 c. ; see advts. in daily papers) affords an excellent survey of
New York Harbour and Coney Island. It may also be reached by railway
from Long Island City (Bith St. ferry; comp. p. 78). A tubular iron pier
extends into the ocean for 1200 ft. — Farther to the E. are the summer-
resorts of Arverne, Edgemere, and Far Rockaway.
Long Beach {*Long Beach Hotel, rebuilt in 1908, $ 4-5; The Inn^ from
$ 2V2), the next sand-strip, is one of the best bathing-beaches on Lone Is-
land, and is frequented by summer residents rather than by excursiorists.
It is reached by railway via Long Island City (comp. p. 78; return- fare
80 c). Farther to the E. is the Great South Beach., a curious strip of
sand 40 M. long and V4-5 M. wide. Fire Island (Surf Hotel), at its W. ex-
tremity, is reached by ferry from (8 M.) Bayshore (p. 81). The light of Fire
Island Lighthouse is often the first object in America seen by the visitor
from Europe, and the signal-station here announces the approach of the
steamers 4 hrs. before they reach their docks (comp. p. 2). The Great
South Bay, between the South Beach and the main coast, is a favourite
shooting (wild-fowl) and fishing ground, and the villages along its shores
(on the S. division of the Long Island R. R., see p. 81) are much frequented
in summer by New Yorkers.
The other points on Long Island are all reached by the Long Island
Railway, the chief divisions of which are given below.
From Beookltn to Geeenport, 94 M., railway in 2V2-3 hrs. (fare $ 2.80).
This is the main line; the trains start at Flatbush Ave. Station (p. 74),
and are joined at Jamaica (see below) by simultaneous sections from Long
Island City (p. 78). — From (7 M.) Woodhaven Junction a branch-line runs to
Rockaway Beach (see above). — 91/2 M. Jamaica, the junction of the Montauk
Division (see below) ; 13 M. Queens , the station for Creedmoor (p. 24).
15 M. Floral Park is the junction of the so-called 'Central Branch', running
via (31/2 M.) Garden Gi'y^ junction for (I1/2 M.) Hempstead (see below), to
(21 M.) Babylon (p. 81). The numerous trains running by this branch
from Flatbush Ave. to Garden City and Hempstead are operated by elec-
tricity. Garden City (Garden City Hotel, from S 5), was laid out by A. T.
Stewart as a model suburban residence for New Yorkers and contains a
handsome Episcopal cathedral built by him. Adjacent is Hempstead (see
above), close to which are the headquarters of the Meadowbrook Hunt Club,
with a good golf-course. — Beyond Floral Park we quit the Borough of
Queens (Greater New York). — I8V2 M. Mineola, the junction of lines
running N. to Sea Cliff, Glen Cove (with the fine mausoleum of Mr. Charles
Pratt, p. 76), and Oyater Bay (with the home of President Roosevelt; good
yachting), and S. to Valley Stream (p. 81). — 25 M. HicksviUe is the junction
of a branch-line to Cold Spring (with a Iprge and important biological
station), Huntington (Chateau des Beaux -Arts, R. from $2), Setauket,
Port Jefferson, Wading River, and other resorts on the N. shore. — 41 M.
Brentwood, a pleasant resort among the pines; 48 M. Ronkonkoma, station
for the lake of that name (Lake Front, $ 2-3) ; 65 M. Manor, junction of
a short line to Eat^tport (p. 81). We skirt the N. shore of Peconic Bay.
— 94 M. Grreenport (Booth House, $3; Wya7idank Hotel, 5 2-2'/2), a
fishing-village and sea-bathing resort near the E. end of Long Island. —
A steam-ferry plies hence to Shelter Island (Prospect Ho., Manhanset Ho.,
$4; Wray^s 'Hotel, $ 2V2-3), in Gardiner's Bay, much frequented by New
Yorkers in summer. The early records of the Quakers here are full
of interest.
Fkom Bbookltn to Montauk, 116 M., railway in 3-3V2hrs. (fares $ 3.45).
This line, which gives access to the resorts on the S. shore of Long Is-
Patchogue. LONG ISLAND. 8. Route. 81
land, diverges to tlie right from that just described at (81/2 M.) Jamaica.
— I6V2 M. Valley Stream is the junction of the branch to Far Rockaway
(see p. 80), etc. At Woodsburgh^ on this branch, is a monument to Culluloo
Telawaxana (d. 1818), the last of the Rockaway Indians. — 23 M. Freeport
(Imperial) ; 28V2 M. Massapequa (Massapequa, from $ 2V2). — 37 M. Babylon
{Slier man Ho. ^ $21/2; La Grange, Babylon, $ 2), a small town (2357 inhab.
in 1905) and seaside resort. — 4i M. Bayshore (Linwood, Shanley, from $ 2),
another fashionable resort connected by ferry with Fire Island (p, 80);
43 M. Islip (Orowoe Hotel, from $ 3) ; 4S M. OaMale, with the fine estate
of Mr. W. K. Vanderbilt. — 54 M. Patchogue {Cliffton Ho., $ 2V2-5; Ocean
Avenue Ho., $ 2-3; Roes Hotel, from $2), with (1905) 3446 inhab., is one of
the largest summer resorts on the island. Bhie Point, the S. extremity of
Patchogue Bay, lends its name to the well-known oysters. — 58 M. Bellport
(Wyandotte, $3; Mallard, from $2) and (66V2 M.) Moriches (Watchogue,
Beach View, $21/2) are two other favourite resorts. — 70 M. Eastport;
741/2 M. Westhampton. — 85^/2 M. Shinnecock Hills (Shinnecock Inn), with
one of the leading golf-clubs in the United States, takes its name from
the Shinnecock Indians, a remnant of whom still occupies a reservation
close by. — 891/2 M. Southampton, sometimes called the 'Newport of Long
Island', is the summer home of many wealthy New Yorkers. — 95 M. Bridge-
hampton is the junction of a short branch-line to Sag Harbor (Nassau Ho.,
American Ho., $ 2-8), once one of the chief whaling ports in America. —
101 M. Easthampton (Maidstone Inn, $4; The Hunting, $3), one of the
quaintest villages in the state, is visited annually by many artists, who
paint its picturesque windmills. It was the home of John Howard Payne
(p. 77), and the Rev. Dr. Lyman Beecher was pastor here from 1798 to 1810. —
The railway ends at (116 M.) Montauk (Montauk Inn, $ 3-4), about 7 M. from
the bold bluflfs of Montauk Point (lighthouse), the E. extremity of the island.
To the N. is Gardiner's Bay (p. SO), with Gardiner''s and Shelter Islands.
The only other point on Long Island that need be mentioned is Flvsh-
ing, with about 20,000 inhab., which lies 8 M. to the E. of Long Island City
(railway and trolley) and contains the residences of many New Yorkers.
4. From New York to Albany.
Comp. Maps, pp. 3, 97, and 232.
a. By Steamer.
150 M. The finely-equipped steamers of the Hudson River Line ('Al-
bany Day Line') leave New York every morning (except Sun.) in summer
(ca. May 14th to Oct. 19th) from Desbrosses St. Pier at 8.40 a.m., 42nd St.
(S. R.) at 9 a.m., and W. 129th St. at 9.20 a.m., and reach Albany about
6.10 p.m., calling at seven intermediate points (fare $ 2, return-fare $31/2;
private cabin $ 5). The largest steamer of this line (the 'Hendrik Hudsoni
is 400 ft. long and is licensed to carry 5000 passengers. Re turn- tickets
are available for the fine night-boats ('C. W. Morse', 'Adirondack') of the
People's Line. Passengers by this line may see the most picturesque
part of the Hudson in one day, returning from West Point, Newburgh, or
Poughkeepsie by the sister boat, which reaches New York at 5.30 p.m. —
The People's Line Steamers leave Pier 32 (foot of Canal St.) every week-
day at 6 p.m., reaching Albany at 6 a.m. next day and making no inter-
mediate stops (fare § I1/2, return $21/2, berth 50c.). — The Citizen's Line
Steamers leave Pier 46 daily, except Sat., at 5 p.m. and reach Troy about
6 a.m., calling at Albany on Mon. morning only (fare $ I1/2, return $ 2V2,
berth 50 c.). — The 'Mary Powell' plies every afternoon from the foot of
Desbrosses St. and 22nd St. to (25 M..) Rondout &ni Kingston (51/2 hrs.; fare
$ 1, return-fare $ IV2).
Those who wish to see the beauties of the Hudson should, of course,
select the 'Day Line'; but the night-boats aff"ord a comfortable and easy
mode of travel. An excellent way of seeing the Hudson is to take the
'Mary Powell' to Newburgh (p. 84), spend a day or so here, and go on
82 Route d. HUDSON RIVER. From New York
by day-boat to Albany. Restaurants on board all the steamers (meals $ 3/4-1 ',
also a la carte). Through railway- tickets to Albany axe available on the
Day Line steamer, and vice versa.
The Hudson River rises in the Adirondack Mts., 4000 ft. above the
sea (comp. p. 105), and flows into the Atlantic Ocean at New York after
a nearly due S. course of 300 M. Its chief tributary is the Mohawk^
which joins it on the W., a little above Troy. The mountains of the
Hudson are part of the Appalachian system, the Highlands ("see p. 84)
being a continuation of the Blue Ridge. The Hudson has sometimes been
called the 'American Rhine', but this title perhaps does injustice to both
rivers. 'The spacious and stately characteristics of the Hudson, from the
Palisades to the Catskills, are as epical as the loveliness of the Rhine is
lyrical. The Hudson implies a continent beyond. For vineyards it has
forests. For a belt of water, a majestic stream. For graceful and grain-
goldened heights, it has imposing mountains. There is no littleness about
the Hudson. ... No European river is so lordly in its bearing, none flows
in such state to the sea. Of aD our rivers that I know, the Hudson, with
this grandeur, has the most exquisite episodes. Its morning and evening
reaches are like the lakes of a drenm' (G. W. Curtis). The E. bank, for many
miles above New York, is sprinkled with handsome country-houses. The
effect of the tide is perceptible as far as Troy, and the river is navigable for
large steamers for 150 M. Sailing-vessels and yachts are abundant in the
lower part of its course, while numerous 'tows' of coal-barges, grain-barges,
and lumber-rafts are also encountered. Beyond the influence of salt water
the Hudson freezes solid in winter, affording an ample harvest to the ice-
cutter (comp. p. 85) and a magnificent field for the exciting sport of ice-
boat sailing (comp. p. 88). Its name is derived from Henry Hudson., a British
navigator in the Dutch service, who in 1609 ascended the river in the 'Half-
Moon' as far as Albany, in search of a water-passage across the Continent
(tercentennial celebrated on Sept. 19-25th, 1909, along with the hundredth
anniversary of Fulton's steamer). According to Ruttenber ('Indian Tribes
of the Hudson River') the E. bank of the Hudson and part of the W. bank
were occupied by the Mohicans, while the W. bank below the Catskills
belonged to theLenni Lenapes (Delawares) and above Cohoes to the Mohawks
(Iroquois). The first steamboat that plied regularly for passengers was the
'Clermont' of Robert Fulton fi765-1815; comp. p. 85), which ran between
New York and Albany in 1807, taking 36 hrs. for the trip.
In the following description the terms right (R., r.) and left (L., 1.)
are used with reference to persons ascending the river.
As the steamer starts from its dock, we enjoy a good view of
New York Harbour to the S., and as we proceed enjoy an admirable
panorama of what Mr. Le Gallienne calls 'New York, with its turreted
peninsula, singing like a forest of stone in the breath of the Atlantic'.
On the right lies Manhattan Island, with the city of New York, while
to the left, in the State of New Jersey, are Jersey City (p. 73),
Hoboken (p. 73), and Weehawken (p. 73). Among the most con-
spicnous points to the right are the huge offlce-bnildings in Broadway
and Park Row (pp. 34-38), the Hudson Terminal Buildings (p. 37),
the dome of the Pulitzer Building (p. 38), the Flat-iron Build-
ing (p. 43), the Metropolitan Life Insurance Building (p. 44), the
Dakota Flats (p. 54), St. Luke's Hospital (p. 66), Riverside Park
(p. 67), the Soldiers and Sailors Monument (p. 68), General Grant's
Tomb (p. 68), Columbia University (p. 66), and the College of the
City of New York (p. 69). To. the left are Stevens Castle (p. 73),
Union Hill Observatory, St. Michael's Observatory, the "West Shore
Railroad Station (p. 10), the Guttenberg Brewery (p. 73), and Pleasant
Valley. Near the end of Manhattan Island, lO-U M. from the Battery,
to Albany. NYACK. 4. Route. 83
we pass between Fort Lee (p. 73), on the left, and the site of Fort
Washington (p. 69) on the right. At Fort Lee begin the *Palisades,
an extraordinary ridge of colnmnar basaltic rocks, not unlike the
Giant's Causeway, rising almost vertically to a height of 200-500 ft.
and extending along the W. bank of the Hudson for abont 15 M.
The width of the monutains of which they form the E. escarpment
is 1/2-172 M., and the "W, slope is quite gentle. Thebeanty of the
Palisades has been somewhat marred by quarrying and blasting
operations. — To the right (13 M.) is Spuyten Duyvil Creek (p. 86).
I6I/2 M. (r.) Mt. St. Vincent Convent, the buildings of which
include Fonthill, formerly the home of Edwin Forrest, the actor.
It is the American headquarters of the Sisters of Charity.
17 M. (r.) Yonkers (p. 86), with the old Phillipse Manor House.
21 M. (r.) Eastings (p. 86). Opposite is Indian Head (*View),
the highest point of the Palisades. About 1/2 M farther on (1.) is
the boundary between New Jersey and New York, both banks hence-
forth belonging to the latter. — 23 M. (r.) DobVs Ferry (p. 86).
24 M. (r.) Irvington (p. 86). Sunnyside^ Irving's house, 3/^ M.
above, can scarcely be distinguished from the steamer. Opposite
[1.) lies Piermont, with the long pier of the Erie Railroad. About
2 M. to the S.W. of Piermont is the old village of Tappan, where
Andre was executed (Oct. 2nd, 1780). — The Palisades here lose
their wall-like character, and the Hudson expands into the lake-
like expanse of the Tappan Zee, 10 M. long and 3-4 M. wide.
25 M. (r.) Lyndehurst (p. 86), the residence of the late Jay
Gould (d. 1892), loftily situated, with a tall tower.
27 M. (r.) Tarrytown (p. 87), whence a steam -ferry plies
across the Tappan Zee to (3 M.) Nyack (Tappan Zee Ho., $3-5;
St. Oeorge Hotel, with restaurant, near the landing, $ 2-3), a brisk
little village, the terminus of the Northern Railroad of New Jersey.
30-32 M. (1.) South Hook Mt. (730 ft.) and North Hook Mt.
(610 ft.). Rockland lies just beyond the latter.
32 M. (r.) Ossining (p. 87), with the low white-marble prison
at the water's edge.
33 M. (r.) Estuary of Croton River and Croton Point (p. 87).
Here, off Teller's Point, the extremity of the peninsula, the 'Vulture'
anchored when she brought Andre to visit Arnold (p. 84).
The steamer now enters Haverstraw Bay, which is 4 M. wide.
37 M. (1.) Haverstraw (p. 87), at the N. base of High Tor
(820 ft). The Highlands (p. 84) are visible in the distance.
40 M. (1.) Stony Point, at the N. end of Haverstraw Bay, now
marked by a lighthouse, was the site of a fort taken by the British
on June 1st, 1779, and re-captured at the point of the bayonet by
Gen. Wayne (p. 188) six weeks later. The river here is only V2 M.
wide, and on the E. bank is Verplanck's Point, the site of Fort
Lafayette. — 41 M. (1.) Tompkins Cove, with lime-stone quarries. —
43 M. (1.) Kidd's Point or Caldwell's Landing; r. Peekskill.
84 Route 4. STORM KING. From New York
The river makes an abrupt bend to the left here, and the Dutch
mariner Jan Peek is said to have followed the Feek's Kill (r.) under the
idea that it was the Hudson , until his ship ran aground. Above
Caldwell's Landing rises the Dunderlerg (p. 89), and to the N.
of Peekskill is Manito Mt. , with the camp of the New York State
National Guard. — We here pass through the S. gate of the *High-
lands, the beautiful hill-girt section of the river extending from
this point to near Newburgh (see below).
46 M. (r.) Anthony's Nose (900 ft.), deriving its name, accord-
ing to Diedrich Knickerbocker's humorous account, from the 're-
fulgent nose' of the Dutch trumpeter, Anthony van Corlear. Nearly
opposite are lona Island (with a large store of naval ammunition),
Bear Hill (1350 ft.), and the sites of Forts Clinton and Montgomery.
50 M. (r.) Sugar- Loaf Mt. (765 ft), near the S. base of which
lay the Beverly Bohinson Eouse^ Arnold's headquarters, where he
received the news of Andre's capture and whence he made his escape
to the 'Vulture'. Opposite are the Buttermilk Falls, 100 ft. high
(insignificant except after heavy rain), on the bluff above which is
Lady Cliff, a large and finely situated school for girls.
52 M. (1.) West Point (p. 89), the site of the well-known Mil-
itary Academy, various buildings of which are visible. To the N.
is the West Point Hotel (p. 89), and above the 'Post' rises Fort
Putnam (p. 90). Steam-ferry to Garrison (p. 87).
Passing West Point, we turn sharply to the left. The Battle Monu-
ment (p. 89) is now conspicuous. To the right, on the point known
as Constitution Island, was long the home of Miss Warner (1819-85 ;
buried in West Point Cemetery), author of the 'Wide, Wide World".
541/2 M. (1.) Crow Nest (1405 ft.), immortalized in J. R. Drake's
'Culprit Fay'. — r. Cold Spring (p. 87), at the foot of Mt. Taurus
or Bull Hill (1425 ft).
56 M. (1.) *Storm King or Butter Mt. (1530 ft), with Corn-
wall (p. 90) at its N. base. — r. Breakneck Mt. (1635 ft). Between
these hills is the North Gate of the Highlands, beyond which we pass
the little Polopel's Island (r.). The mountains trend to the N.E.
59 M. (1.) New Windsor. — r. Dutchess Junction (p. 87).
61 M. (1.) Newburgh (see p. 90). Washington's Headquarters
(see p. 90), a one-storied stone building, with a timber roof, sur-
rounded by trees and distinguished by a flag-staff, are seen just below
the town. On the opposite bank lies Fishkill (comp. p. 87).
67 M. (1.) Duyvil's Dans Kamer, a low fiat rock on a promontory.
70 M. (1.) Marlborough, with fine Arbor Yitae trees.
75 M. (r.) Poughkeepsie (see p. 87). The boats of the Day
Line meet here , and passengers who wish to return to New York
make direct connection. Vassar College (p. 88) is not visible. —
1. New Paltz Landing (comp. p. 90).
The *Poughkeepsie Railway Bridge, which here spans the
to Albany. CLEKMONT. 4. Route. 85
Hudson, constructed on the cantilever principle in 1886-89, is
2260 yds. long (IV4 M.) and 200 ft. above Mgh- water.
77 M. (r.) Hudson River State Hospital for the Insane. Nu-
merous handsome residences are passed on the right, and large ice-
houses on the left. It is estimated that the ice-industry of the Hudson
represents a capital of $6,000,000(1,200,000^.) and gives employ-
ment in winter to 15,000 men. Many of the estates on both banks
are still in the hands of the original 'Knickerbocker' families.
82 M. (r.) Hyde Park (p. 88). Just above is the residence of
F. W. Vanderbilt, almost opposite which (1.) is the home of John
Burroughs, the author.
87 M. (r.) Dinsmore Point , with the house of the late Wm. B.
Dinsmore, long president of the Adams Express Co. , which began
in 1840 with two men, a boy, and a wheelbarrow, and now has 18,400
men and 4150 waggons and carries parcels over 34,000 M. of railway.
91 M. (1.) Kingston and Rondout (see p. 90). Opposite lies
Rhinecliff Landing (p. 88; ferry 13 c).
99 M. (r.) North Bay (above Crugers Island'), where Fulton built the
'Clermont' (p. 82), with the aid of Chancellor Livingston, a member
of the influential New York family of that name. The Livingston Manor
House is a large house in the Colonial style, on a knoll to the right.
100 M. (r.) Tivoli, whence a ferry runs to —
102 M. (1.) Saugerties (p. 91), with a lighthouse.
The Catskill Mts. (R. 7) now bound the view on the left.
Overlook Mt. (p. 101), with its hotel, rises nearly opposite Tivoli,
and next to it is Plattekill (3135 ft), above Saugerties.
103 M. (r.) Clermont, the original seat of the Livingston family,
descended from the Earls of Linlithgow (comp. above); it is a small
house, almost hidden by the foliage. Nearly opposite is Maiden,
above which rises Kaaterskill Mt., with the Kaaterskill Hotel and the
Catskill Mt. House (p. 99).
108 M. (r.) Germantown Station. Just beyond this point we
have the best view , to the left , of the supine figure of the ^Man in
the Mountain', whose knee, breast, and face (from S. to N.) are
formed by different peaks of the Catskills. Bound Top (p. 100),
rises to the N. of the man's head.
115 M. (1.) Catskill (p. 98), at the mouth of the Catskill Creek.
This was the highest point reached by the 'Half-Moon' (p. 82), but
Hudson sent small boats up as far as Waterford (p. 127), 4 M. above
Troy. Numerous large Ice Houses to the left.
120 M. (r.) Hudson (p. 88). Steam-ferry to Athens (1.). The
scenery is now less attractive. — 127 M. (1.) Coxsackie (ferry). —
125 M. (r.) Stuyvesant. Numerous flat islands are passed. — 136 M.
(r.) Schodack. — 1. Coeymans (pron. Queemans), behind which rise
the Helderlerg Mts. (p. 96). — 141 M. (r.) Castleton. Extensive
dykes have been made from this point onwards to improve the channel.
148 M. (r.) Van Rensselaer Place or Fort Cralo (1642), an old
86 Route 4. YONKERS. From New York
brick house, with a modern Mansard roof and a flag-staff, was the
place where Richard Schnckburg, a surgeon of the British army, wrote
^Yankee Doodle' in 1757. It is now preserved as a national memorial.
150 M. (1.) Albany (seep. 91), with the Capitol towering above
the other buildings, is connected by three bridges with Rensselaer
(p. 851.
156 M. (r.) Troy, see p. 128.
b. Vi§. Railway on the East Bank.
143 M. New York Centkal and Hxjdsok Rivee Railroad in 23/4-41/2 hrs.
(fare S3.10; parlor-car $1). This line affords good views of the W. bank
of the Hudson (seen to the left).
New York, see p. 10. The train leaves the Grand Central Station,
traverses the Park Avenne tunnel (p. 51), passes 126th Street Station,
and crosses the Harlem River by a huge four-track swing-bridge of
steel (1896). To the left are Grant's Tomb (p. 68), St. Luke's Hospital
(p. 66), and Columbia University (p. 66). The line turns to the W.
(left) beyond (5 M.) 138th Street, and skirts the Harlem to High Bridge
(p. 70) and (11 M..) Spuyten Duyvil, on Spuyten Duyvil Creek (j^. 30),
so named, says the legend, from the Dutch trumpeter Anthony van
Corlear , who 'swore most valorously that he would swim across it
in spite of the Devil (en spuyt den duyvil)', but 'sank for ever to
the bottom' (see W. Irving's 'Knickerbocker History of New York').
The creek formed the S. boundary of the 'Neutral Ground' in the
Revolutionary War. — Spuyten Duyvil lies on the E. bank of
the Hudson, which we now foUow closely, obtaining good views
of the Palisades (p. 83), on the opposite side. — 14 M. Mount
St.Vincent (p. 83). — 15 M. Yonkers (Arlington, Bardin's, Getty Ho.,
Wynnstay, from $ 2, R. from $ 1), a thriving town, with (1905)
61,716 inhab. and the residences of many New Yorkers. It occupies
the land of the PMllipse estate (comp. p. 83), and the manor-
house (1682), in front of which is a Soldiers' Monument, is now
the city-haU. — 19^2 M. Hastings- on- Hudson (International). —
21 M. BoWs Ferry (Bellevue), a picturesque suburban village,
affording fine views of the N. end of the Palisades. In the old
Livingston Mansion here, in 1783, Washington, Carleton, and Clinton
met for the final settlement of the terms on which England recognized
American independence. — 22 M. Ardsley-on-Hudson, with its golf
club (see p. 24). — 23 M. Irvington, on the Tappan Zee (p. 83), with
'Sunnyside', the home of W. Irving (p. 87), the E. end of which
is covered with ivy, grown from a slip given to Irving at Abbotsford
by Sir Walter Scott i. The house has lately been enlarged. The
Paulding Manor {Lyndehurst; see p. 83) is a fine old building. Nevia
is a stately mansion built in 1836 by a son of Alex. Hamilton and
t According to another version of the story, the ivy was brought from
Melrose Abbey.
to Albany. TARRYTOWN. 4. Route. 87
named in honour of his father's birthplace. Near the station are the
huge premises of the Cosmopolitan Printing ^ Publishing Co. —
25 M. Tarrytown [Florence, $ 2-3 ; Bella Vista, in summer, $ 3-5), on
a hill rising from the riyer, was the scene of Major Andre"s capture
in 1780 (monument) and is the centre of a district rich in reminis-
cences of the Revolutionary War. It is, perhaps, still better known
from its connection with Washington Irving (comp. p. 38), who was
churchwarden of Christchurch here (restored in 1897) and is buried
in the graveyard of the old Dutch Church, 8/4 M. to the N., built in
1699 with bricks brought from Holland. The latter church lies in
^Sleepy Hollow', which is traversed by the Pocantico or Mill Brook,
with the bridge across which 'Ichabod Crane' rushed helter-skelter
from the pursuit of the 'Headless Horseman'. Carl Schurz (1829-
1906) is buried in Sleepy Hollow Cemetery. Among the most
beautiful estates near Tarrytcwn is Rockwood Hall, the seat of
Mr. Wm. Rockefeller. Opposite Tarrytown lies Nyack (p. 83).
31 M. Ossining ( Wesfcora, $2-3), formerly Sing Sing, a prettily
situated town with (1905) 7135 inhab., is the seat of the large State
Prison, which is seen to the left. The Croton Aqueduct (p. 70) here
crosses a ravine by a stone arch, 70 ft. high and 88 ft. in span. — The
train then crosses the mouth of the Croton River (6 M. up which is
the Croton Reservoir, p. 70) and intersects Croton Point. Across the
Hudson, which is here at its widest {Haverstraw Bay, 4 M.), is the
village of Haverstraw (p. 83). Farther on the train is frequently
carried across creeks and bays on low trestle-work. — 41 M.
Peekskill {Raleigh, Eagle, $ 2-3), a pretty little town with (1905)
13,200 inhab., on Peek's Kill, opposite the Dunderberg (p. 89 5
ferry to Caldwell's Landing). Excursions may be made to Lake
Mohegan (summer - hotels ; electric cars), Oseola Lake, and Lake
Oscawana. — The train penetrates Anthonys Nose (p. 84) by a
tunnel 70 yds. long, passes (46 M.) Highlands Station (view of the
hills across the Hudson), and reaches (50 M.) Garrison (Highland
Ho., loftily situated, $ 21/2-3), opposite West Point (p. 89 ; ferry
15 c). 53 M. Cold Spring (ferry to Cornwall p. 90) ; 55 M. Storm King,
opposite the hill of that name (p. 84). — 57 M. Dutchess Junction.
The Newburgh, Dutchess, & Connecticut E. R. runs hence to (58 M.)
Millerionip. 74), passing (29 M.) Millhrook (900 ft.; Halcyon, Millbrook Inn,
from $ d), a favourite summer-resort.
59 M. Fishkill Landing lies at the mouth of the Matteawan
Creek, opposite Newburgh (p. 90 ; ferry 9 c).
AKo^c7?^^'^^P^ railway ascends hence to the top of South Beacon Sill
10«5 ft.), which affords a *View of the Hudson and the Catskills (p. 97).
74 M. Poughkeepsie (200 ft. above the river; Nelson Ho., $3-
31/2; Morgan Ho., $2-3; Rail. Restaurant), a city of (1905) 25,379
inhab., was settled by the Dutch in 1698 and contains some hand-
some buildings, including a large State Insane Asylum. The name
(pron. PokCpsy) is a corruption of the Indian Apo-keep-sinck ('safe
harbour'). The Eastman Park is pleasantly laid out.
Baedekeb's United States. 4th Edit. 6
88 Route 4. HUDSON. From New Torh
About 2 M. to the E. lies Vassar College (1000 students and 95 teachers),
the first and perhaps the best-known of the American colleges for women,
founded in 1861 by Matthew Vassar, an Englishman, at a cost of upwards
of $ 500,000. The present value of endowments and property is nearly
$ 3,000,000. The campus includes 400 acres, and there are over a score
of separate buildings. The most noteworthy are the Thompson Library
(60,000 vols.), the chapel, the lecture hall, the science buildings, and the
old main building, 500 ft. long. — Cantilever Bridge, see p. 84. — Pough-
keepsie is the headquarters of iceboat sailing (comp. p. 82).
79 M. Hyde Park; 84 M. Staatslurg. Tlie river-"banks are now
mucli less precipitous. — 89 M. RMnecliff, terminus of tlie Central
New England R. R. A'bout 2 M. to tlie E. lies Rhineheck (RMneclifi
Hotel, from $2), round wMch about 25 sq. M. of ground are devoted
to the growing of violets. A steam-ferry plies hence to Kingston
(p. 90). The Beekman Eouse^ near Rhinecliff, is a good specimen
of a Dutch house of the 17th century. — From (99 M.) Tivoli a ferry
plies to Saugerties (p. 85). The Catskills (p. 97) are now prominent
on the other side of the Hudson. From (110 M.) Greendale or
Catskill Station a steam-ferry runs to the town of Catskill (p. 98),
the chief avenue of approach to the Catskill Mts. (R. 7).
115 M. Hudson {Worth Ho., $21/2; Central, St. Charles, Lincoln,
$2), a small city with (1905) 10,290 inhab., on the slope of Prospect
Hill (200 ft.), carries on an actiye river -trade (ferry to Athens,
p. 85). The Albany & Hudson R.R. runs hence through a pleasant
country to (18 M.) Niverville (p. 334). — 142 M. Rensselaer (p. 85).
Our train here crosses the Hudson, while trains for Troy and other
points to the N. (comp. R. lib) continue on the E. bank.
143 M. Albany (Rail. Restaurant), see p. 91.
c. Via. Railway on the West Bank.
142 M. West Shoee Railroad in 4V2-6V2 hrs. (fare $3.10; sleeper
$1.50, parlor-car $ 1). This line affords better views than that on the E.
bank, but starts from Weehawken (p. 73 •, ferry from Desbrosses St. Vzhr.,
from 42nd St. 1/4 hr.).
The train starts at Weehawken (see p. 73; Rail. Restaurant) and
passes through a long tunnel into the valley of the Hackensack, which
runs through marshes to the left. As far as Nyack our line runs
parallel with the Northern New Jersey Railroad (to the right). All
view of the Hudson is at first cut off by the Palisades (p. 83).
11 M. West Englewood; 20 M. Tappan (p. 83); 25 M. West
Nyack, 1 1/2 M. to the W. of Nyack (p. 83). At (27 M.) Valley Cottage
the South Hook Mt. (p. 83) rises to the right. 291/9 M. Conger's
is the station for Rockland Lake (150 ft.), 1 M. to the S.E. , an im-
portant source of New York's ice - supply. The train now threads
a tunnel and emerges on Haverstraw Bay (p. 83; *View of the
Hudson). To the left is High Tor (p. 83). 33 M. Haverstraw (Rock-
land Ho., $2), with extensive brick-fields. The line now hugs the
to Albany. WEST POINT. 4. Route. 89
river. From (40 M.) Jones Point a spiral railway (views) ascends
to the top of the Dunderherg (865 ft. ; pleasure grounds). 42 M.
lona Island (p. 84) ; 44 M. Fort Montgomery (p. 84).
48V2 M. West Point (^West Point Hotel, $31/2), the seat of
the -well-known Military Academy for training officers for the U. S.
army, is finely situated on the W. bank of the Hudson, overlooking
the Highlands (p. 84). The railway- station is on the level of the
river, hut the parade-ground and the principal buildings of the 'Post'
occupy a plateau about 160ft. above.
West Point was first fortified in 1778, and this 'Gibraltar of the Hud-
son' was an important point in the Revolutionary War, though no actual
fighting took place here. Arnold was commander of the post at the time
of his treason. Washington recommended the site for a military academy,
but it was not till 1802 that it was established.
The ''West Point Military Academy usually contains about 500 cadets,
nominated, between the ages of 17 and 22, by Members of Congress and
appointed by the President. The course of instruction (4 years) is very
thorough. The instructors are officers of the army. The cadets go into
camp in July and Aug., but the most interesting drills are held in April,
May, Sept., and Oct.; dress-parades are held all the year round.
Visitors will find an introduction convenient, but can see most of
the points of interest without one.
[Congress has recently appropriated ca. $ 7,500,000 for improvements
and additions to West Point Academy; and a very extensive scheme of
reconstruction is now in progress from the plans of Messrs. Cram, Goodhue,
and Ferguson (architects) and Olmsted Brothers (landscape architects).
The style employed for all the buildings is English Perpendicular Gothic,
adapted to modern conditions. The older structures of historic value have
been preserved and incorporated in the new scheme. The following account
is at places a little in advance of accomplished fact.]
Opposite the landing is the new Railway Station, with an Elevator
ascending to the new Sotel on the hill above. We ascend to the right, by
a good road along the face of the cliflfs, and soon reach (right) the Power
House and Riding Rail (visitors admitted to the galleries). The horse-
manship of the senior cadets is wonderfully good, and no one should neglect
an opportunity to see their exercises. On the higher ground immediately
to theW. of the Riding Hall is the Headquarters Building, with its massive
tower. The last is adjoined by the Hast Academic Building and the Library,
the latter containing a memorial, by Aug. Saint- Gaudens, to J. McNeill
Whistler (p. 313) and E. A. Foe, who were both cadets at West Point for a
short time.
We now reach the fine Parade Ground (40 acres in area), where all
the military exercises take place. We turn to the left, passing the West
Academic Building and the South Cadet Barracks. [Behind, to the S. of the
former, is the Grant or Mess Hall, with portraits of Grant, Sherman,
Sheridan, and other officers.] In the S.W. corner of the Parade Ground
is a statue of Col. Thayer, and on its W. side are additional Cadet Barracks
and the Gymnasium (some way back). In the N.W. corner is a group of
Ordnance and Store Buildings. On the !N. side, near the flag-staff, is the
tall Battle Monument (78 feet high), erected in 1894 and consisting of a
column surmounted by a Victory by MacMonnies. Close by, on the site
of the old hotel, will stand the Staff Headquarters. To the N.E., in an
angle of Fort Clinton, is a monument to Kosciuszko. On the E. side of
the Parade Ground is the Cullum Memorial Hall, with the Officers'" Mess
to the S. of it, while in front is a monument to Dade's Command (p. 629).
The so-called 'Flirtation Walk', on the river-side, leads to Kosciuszko'' s
Garden, a spot frequented by that heroic Pole. The Officers'' Quarters ex-
tend along the main road on the plateau, to the N. and S of the Academic
Buildings and the Cadet Barracks. Beyond these are the Cemetery and the
6*
90 d. Route NEWBURGH. From New Yori
Soldiers' Village. — To the S. of the Gymnasium (p. 89) are the large
new Chapel, in a commanding sitnation, and the Observatory. — In the
S. part of the Po?=t (reacted by turning to the left at the new railway
station) are the Jiew Officers' Quarters, the Quarters of tfie Married Soldiers,
and the Cavalry and Artillery Barracks.
The views from different parts of the Post are beautiful, hut the
visitor with a little time to spare should ascend to (15-20 min.) the ruins
of Old Fort Putnam (5!l6 ft.J. Here we can walk round the ramparts,
obtaining a magnificent *View in all directions: up and down the Hudson,
nearly the whole of the Highlands, Newburgh, the buildings of the Post
(at our feet), the red-domed observatory on a lower hill to the S., etc. —
A fine road (*Views) leads from West Point to (7 M.) Cornwall (see below)
over the slopes of Crow Nest (p. 84) and Storm King (p. 84), and the
energetic visitor may easily ascend one or both of these mountains ('Views).
Leaving West Point, the train tunnels under the Parade Ground
and skirts the bases of Crow Nest (p. 84) and Storm King (p. 84),
commanding fine views of the mountains on the other side of the
Hudson. 53 M. Cornwall (Elmer Ho., $272-3), a popular summer
resort, with Idlewild^ for 15 years the home of N.P. Willis (1807-67).
58 M. Newburgh (^Palatine, $ 3-4; 77. S. Hotel, $ 2-3), a city
and coaling port of (1905) 26,498 inhab., finely situated on the W.
bank of the Hudson, 130-300 ft. above the water. The chief point of
interest here is the old Hashrouck Mansion, to the S. of the city,
vs^hich was Washington's headquarters in 1782-83 and dates in part
from 1750 (interesting relics ; adm. free ; catalogue 25 c). It was
here that Washington was offered the title of king by the officers
of the army. In the N.E. corner of the grounds is the so-called
Tower of Victory, with a statue of Washington (view).
Newburgh is the junction of a branch of the Erie Railway, running
into Pennsylvania.
The line continues to follow the Hudson closely. — 73 M. High-
land is the station for the steam-ferry to Povghkeepsie (p. 87).
89 M. Kingston (Eagle, $ 2-21/25 J^^^H- Restaurant) and Bondout
[Mansion Ho., $ 2-210; 'ronduit' = fort, redoubt), the one on the
heights a little back from the river and the other at the mouth
of the Rondout Creek, have been united in one city vsdth (1905)
25,556 inhab., cement works, and a trade in coal. The Senate House
of Kingston, built in 1676 and the first home of the N. Y. State
Legislature, contains an interesting collection of Dutch and other
relics. Kingston was burned by the British in 1777.
Kingston is the junction for the Ulster d: Delaware R. R., one of the
approaches to the Catskill Mts. (see R. 7c), and connects by steam-ferry
with Rhineclif (p. 8). — Rondout is the termination of the Delaware
and Hudson Canal, which was constructed in 1825-28 to tap the Penn-
sylvania coal-fields and runs to (108 M.) Honesdale.
From Kingston to Campbell Hall, 38 M., WallHll Valley R. R. in
1V3-2 hrs This line is of importance to the tourist mainly as giving
access to Lakes Mohonk and Minnewaska (p. 91). The station for both of
these is (15 M.) New Paltz (Jackson Ho., $ 2), which may also be reached
from New York via the N.Y., Ontario, & Western E.'R. and the Erie
R. R. (ihrough-fare to Lake Mohonk about S 3V4, to Minnewaska about
$ 3V2) and by trolley-line from Highland, opposite Poughkeepsie (p. 87).
Stages run in connection with the trains from ^ew Paltz to (6 M.) Lake
Mohonk (fare § 1.25, when not included in the railway ticket 5 trunk 50 c.)
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to Albany. LAKE MINNEWASKA. 4. Route. 91
and from Kerhonkson, on tlie If. Y., Ontario, and Western R. R., to (6 M.)
Minnewaska (i'^/z tir.). — *Lake Mohonk (1245 ft.) is a charming little sheet
of water, situated near the summit of Sky Top (1550 ft.), one of the Shavocm-
gunk Mtt. (p. 142), 6 M. to the W. of New Paltz. Fine views are enjoyed
in all directions over a scene in which the wild and the gentle are mingled
in picturesque variety. On the margin of the lake stands the * Mo honk
House, a huge hotel with accommodation for 450 guests (from $ 3 or $ 4
a day, $ 18-42 a week , ace. to season). The mounains are traversed by
fine walks and drives, and fishing, bathing, and golf (links near the
Mountain Rest Ho., see below) are also among the attractions. — About
6 M. to the S. of Lake Mohonk and 10 M. to the S.W, of New Paltz, at
an elevation of 1800 ft., is *Lake Minnewaska, on the banks of which are
two similar hotels, the Wildmere and the Cliff (S 21/2-4 a day, $ 12-25 a
week). All three hotels are managed on 'a strictly temperance plan'.
Moreover 'visitors are not expected to arrive or depart on the Sabbath'.
Automobiles are not admitted to the grounds, and the life generally is much
quieter than at most large American summer-hotels. The Mohonk House
opens about June 1st and closes about Oct. 20th; the Minnewaska season
begins in raid-.Tune and closes about the end of September. — On the crest
of the mountains above Lake Mohonk, overlooking the valleys of the
Rondout and the Wallkill , is the Mountain Re^t, a boarding-house for
80 guests ($ 21/2-3 a day, $ 12-20 a week). — The 'Mohonk Conferences',
held every spring and autumn, discuss International Arbitration and the
means of improving the condition of the American Indian.
A charming excursion for drivers, cyclists, or autnmobilists is from
Kingston to Lake Mohonk, thence to Port Jervis (p. 143), and thenec by
the old coach-route down the valley of the Delaware to the Delaware Water
Gap (p. 140). Comp. p. 143.
Tlie train now runs at some little distance from the river. 100 M.
Saugtrties^ at tlie month of the Esopus Creek (rail, stat., 1 M. from
the river), near the PLattekill Clove (p. 102).
Ill M. Catskill, the junction of the Catskill Mt. Railway and
another portal to the Catskill Mts.^ see p. 98. 115V2 M. West Athens ;
121 M. Coxsackie. At (129 M.) Ravena the line for Buffalo and the
West diverges to the left.
142 M. Albany, see below.
5. Albany.
Hotels. Ten Etck (PL b; D, 4, 5), at the N.E. corner of State and
Chapel Sts., R. from $ 2; *Hampton (PI. d; D, 5), 38 State St., R. with hath
from $2; New Kenmoke (PI. a; D, 4), N. Pearl St., R. from $ IV2; Stanwix
Hall (PI. c; D, 5), Broadway, near the railway-station, from § 2^/2 R- from
§1; Globe (PI. e; D, 5), State St., from $ 2. — A list of Boarding Houses
is kept at the Chamber of Commerce (95 State St.), where also information
to strangers is freely given.
Restaurants at the -'Hampton, Ten Eyck, New Kenmore, and other hotels;
Eeeler''s. State St.; Railway Restaurant.
Tramways (electric; fare 5 e. ; transfers issued) run through the main
streets and to Watervliet (p. 95), Gohoes (p. 127), Troy (p. 128), Wext Albany,
and Rensselaer. — Electric Railways run from Albany to Lake George
(p. 122), Hudson (35 M. : p. 88), Schenectady (p. 129), Saratoga (p. 119), etc.
Steamers ply to New York (see R. 4a), Newhurgh (p. SiiO), New Baltimore,
and Troy (p. 128), and Steam Ferry Boats run to Rensse'aer (p 85) and Bath.
Cabs. For each pers., 1 M. 50 c., 2 M. 75 c., 3 M. $ 1.
Theatres. Harmanus Bleecker Hall (VI. B, 3), see p. 95; Proctor's Theatre
(PI. C, 5), S. Pearl St.; Empire (PI. C, 5), State St., above S. Pearl St.
(burlesques).
Post Office (PI. D, 5), Broadway, corner of State St.
92 Route 5. ALBANY. History.
Albany, the capital of tlie State of New York, is a thriving com-
mercial city with (1905) 98,374 inhab., finely sitnated on terraced
hills rising from the "W. bank of the Hudson, at its junction with
the Erie and Champlain Canals. It is well bnilt on the whole,
with many handsome bnildings , and retains much of the clean,
comfortable, and easy-going character of its original Dntch found-
ation. BreAsdng and stove-making are its chief industries, and it
has a large lumber market. Albany is united with the E. bank of the
Hudson by a road-bridge and two railway-bridges (comp. p. 86).
Albany was founded by the Dutch in 1609, and was thus, next to
Jamestown in Virginia (p. 561), the oldest European settlement in the
Thirteen Original States. A stockade was erected here in 1624 and named
Fart Orangb, but in 1664, when the place passed into the hands of the
British, it was re-christened Albany in honour of the future James II. The
small town long carried on a lucrative fur-trade with the Indians, but did
not contain more than 5000 inhab. at the beginning; of the 19th cen-
tury. It received a city charter in 1686 and became the State capital in 1797.
In 1629 the 'Patroon' system of Holland was established on the Hud-
son. The first Patroon was Killian van Rensselaer^ of Amsterdam, a direc-
tor of the Dutch West India Co., who, along with others, received from
the States General a grant of land extending along the Hudson for 24 M.
from the Mohawk River to Beeren Island, below Albany, and running in-
land for 24 M. from each bank. The Patroon was practically a feudal
lord, with the absolute title to the soil, and his tenants were little more
than serfs. The property was created a manor in 1685, and soon after
the Van Rensselaer heir bough^t out the other co -proprietors. The manor
was not entailed, but its descent was regulated by the law of primogeni-
ture. The patroonship was inherited through five generations but became
obsolete after the Declaration of Independence. The last Patroon, Gen.
Stephen van Rensselaer., died in 1839. After the Revolution the obligation
of paying rent to the Patroon produced the so-called 'Anti-Rent War\
which convulsed the State of New York and caused the troops to be called
out several times. The rights of the Van Rensselaers were sustained by all
the State Courts. Col. Church purchased the rights of the Van Rensselaers in
1853, and most of the tenants have acquired the fee-simple of their lands.
Albany has long been an important political centre. In 1754 a provincial
congress that met here formed a plan of union that made possible the
concerted action of the Colonies a little later; and in more recent times
the little knot of Albany politicians has practically determined the nom-
ination and election of several Presidents of the United States. The 'Al-
bany Regency' was the name given by Thurlow "Weed to a powerful junta
of Democratic politicians here in 1824-37, including Martin van Buren.
Bret Harte (d. 1902) was born at Albany in 1839.
The Erie Canal, which connects Lake Erie at Buffalo with the Hudson
at Albanv, was constructed in 1817-25 at an original cost of $7,500,000
(1,500,000?.), since increased to at least $ 100,000,000 (20,000,000^.), including
maintenance, enlargement, feeders, and connections (Champlain Canal, etc.).
It is a monument of the foresight of Gov. De Witt Clinton (p. 78), who pushed
on the work in spite of all opposition, and gave New York its start as the
commercial metropolis of America. The canal is 360 M. long, 7 ft. deep,
56 ft. wide at the bottom, and 70 ft. wide at the surface. It descends 570 ft. by
means of 72 locks. It is chiefly used for the conveyance of grain, salt, and
timber; and the annual amount of goods carried over it is 3,000 000 tons,
valued at $ 300,000,000 (60,000, OCO^). The canal is now being reconstructed,
at an immense cost, so as to allow of the passage of barges with a capacity
of 1000 tons. The route of this new canal will diifer considerably from
that of the old one. It will be 75 ft. wide at the bottom and 123 ft. at
the top, and it wOl have 38 locks, each 300 ft. long.
The large Union Railway Station (PI. D, 4) abuts on Broadway^
Capitol. ALBANY. 5. Route. 93
the cMef commercial thorougMare, rnnning nearly parallel with the
Hudson. A little to the S., at the corner of State St., stands the
Post Office (PI. D, 5), opposite which is the Albany Trust Co.
State Street, 150 ft. wide, ascends directly from the river to
the (1/4 M.) Capitol (see helow), crossing Pearl St. (N. and S.), which
runs parallel with Broadway and contains the hest shops. To the
right, adjoining the Albany Trust Co. (see above), is the First
National Bank, in white granite. On the same side, at the corner
of James St., is the Mechanics' and Farmers' Bank, with an inscription
stating that it occnpiest he site of the honse of Anneke Janse Bogardus
(1663), whose heirs made such valiant and long- continued efforts
to recover from Trinity Church (p. 36) the old family property in
New York. Also on the right, just below N. Pearl St., is the New
York State National Bank, bearing an inscription to the effect that
it is the oldest bank - building continuously used as such in the
United States (since 1803).
The chief buildings in 'S. Peakl Street (PI. D, 4) are the Albany Savings
Bank (on the site of the Vanderheyden Place, mentioned in Washington
Irving's 'Bracebridge Hall'), the Young Men's Christian Association^ and the
New Kenmore Hotel (W. side ; p. 91).
S. Pearl St. ends at (2V4 M.) Norman'' s Kill. — Schuyler St., ^|^ M. from
State St., runs to the right from S. Pearl St. to the interesting old * Schuyler
House (PI. C, 6), now a R. C. orphan asylum, built for Gen. Philip Schuyler
in 1760-61. Alex. Hamilton was here married to Elizabeth Schuyler in 1780,
and a dent in the old staircase is said to have been made by the toma-
hawk of one of a party of Indians who tried to carry oflf Gen. Schuyler
in 1781. Gen. Bnrgoyne was entertained here with his staff after his
capture at Saratoga. Washington, Franklin, Carroll of CarroUton, etc.,
were also guests of this house, and Pres. Millard Fillmore was married here.
A little farther up State St., to the right, is the Ten Eyck Hotel
(p. 91) ; to the left are the Empire Theatre (p. 91) and the Albany
City Savings Institution. At the corner of Lodge St. stands *St. Peter's
Episcopal Church (PI. C, 4), with a fine Gothic tower, some good
stained-glass windows (one by Burne Jones), a reredos by Louis
Saint- Gaudens, and a mosaic pavement.
The *Capitol (PI. C, 4), commandingly situated at the top of State
St. hill, with a small park in front of it, is a huge structure in
the French Renaissance style, built (1867-98) in the form of a
quadrangle, 300 ft. wide and 400 ft. deep, with louvre-towers at
the angles. The central court is 137 ft. long and 92 ft. wide; above
the dormer windows are the arms of the Stuyvesant, Schuyler,
Livingston, Jay, Clinton, and Tompkins families. The building
covers an area of three acres (comp. p. 161). It is built of a light-
coloured granite, which contrasts pleasantly with the red-tiled roofs.
Its total cost is estimated at at least $ 25,000,000. The original
design was by Thomas Fuller, but this has been considerably modified
in construction. 'If anyone had come up to me and told me in French,
old or new, that the new Capitol was "le chateau de Monseigneur le
due d'Albanie", I could almost have believed him' (E. A. Freeman).
94 Route 5. ALBANY. Capitol.
The Eastern Approach is tlie principal one. It extends out from
the building for 166 ft., provides for an entrance to the groundfloor
through an arcade and to the first floor through a broad portico reached
by 77 steps, and gives dignity to the chief fagade of the building.
Interior (guidebooks and photographs for sale at stall inside N. entrance;
guides obtainable on application at the Superintendent's Office),
The Gkound Flooe, which is occupied by offices and administrative
departments, is connected with the upper floors by elevators and by three
handsome staircases. The Assembly Staircase, in the N.E. corner, built of
freestone, is fine but ill-lighted and somewhat gloomy. The ^Senate Staircase^
in the S.E. part of the building, is of warm red sandstone, with round and
pointed arches and much fine tracery and decoration. The ^ Western Staircase,
in the centre of the W. side, is of light-red sandstone, with treads of reddish-
brown freestone. It consists of a double stairway, ascending to the top of
the dome (119 ft.), and is profusely adorned with carvings of historic scenes,
foliage, and historic and symbolic heads, all shown ofi" to great advantage
by the colour and texture of the stone. It is crowned by a frieze of
medallions containing the heads of the Governors of the State from
1777 to 1896. At the head of the staircase is an interesting collection of
Indian relics.
The First Flook also is mainly occupied by offices. In the spacious
foyer leading from the main entrance is the Bureau of Military Statistics
(open 9-5), with a collection of State flags used in the Civil War, photographs,
memorials of Lincoln, American antiquities, and other relics. In the S.E.
corner is the Governor''s Room or Executive Chamber, with mahogany wain-
scoting and ceiling and hangings of Spanish leather. The elaborate coloured
marble decorations of the S. Corridors are very effective.
Second Floor. The Assembly Chamber (in the centre of the If. side),
140 ft. long and 84 ft. wide (including the galleries), was originally covered
by a large groined arch (56 ft. high), supported by four massive columns
of marble. The N. and S. walls were decorated with two monumental
frescoes by William M. Hunt, but these are now concealed by a wooden
ceiling, while the arched roof, having proved unstable, has been removed.
Visitors admitted to the galleries when the house is in session. — The
Court of Appeals, at the E. end of the S. side, is a fine room (53 ft.
long and 35 ft. wide), adorned with red oak, marble, and Mexican onyx.
Next to it is the *Senate Chamber, the elaborate design of which is due to
Mr. H. H. Richardson (p. Ixxxix). It is 100 ft. long, 60 ft. wide, and 50 ft.
high (including lobbies and galleries). Among the chief decorative features
are the oaken ceiling, the panelling of Mexican onyx and Tennessee marble,
the gilded frieze, the open fireplaces, the chandeliers, and the stained-
glass windows. The galleries are supported by arches of yellow Siena
marble, borne by dark-red granite columns. 'When I say that the arches
in the Senate Chamber seemed to me, as far as their general conception
goes, worthy to stand at Ragusa, some will understand that I can say no
more' {Freeman). — The Lieut. Governor^ t Room is entered from the W. lobby
of the Senate Chamber.
Third Floor. Entrance to the Galleries of both the Senate (S.) and
Assembly (N.) is gained from this floor. The rest of the floor is devoted
to administrative offices and committee rooms. A good view of the great
W. staircase (see above) is obtained at the W. end of the building.
To the N.E. of the Capitol Park, at the corner of Eagle St. and
Maiden Lane, is the *City Hall (^Pl. C, 4), by H. H. Richardson
(1881-83), in a free S. French Gothic style, with a fine tower. Just
to the N. of it is the State Hall, containing the offices of the State
Comptroller, State Engineer, and State Superintendent of Banks.
Opposite are the Academy Park and the Albany Academy (for boys),
where J. Henry first demonstrated the theory of the magnetic tele-
Washington Park. ALBANY. 5. Route. 95
graph by ringing a bell by electricity transmitted through a mile of
wire strung ronnd the room (1831).
By following Eagle Street towards the S. we reach the Albany Medical
College (good museum) and, at the corner of Madison Ave., the R. C. Cath-
edral of the Immaculate Conception (PI. C, 5), a large Gothic building,
with spires 210 ft. high. The elaborate interior is lighted by numerous
stained-glass windows. A little farther on, below Elm St., is the Oovernor's
Mansion. — To the S.W. of this point lies Beaver Park (PI. A, B, 5, 6).
To the W. of the Capitol State St. is continued, past the Albany
Law School (PL B, 4), to (1/2 M.) *Washington Park (PI. A, B, 3, 4),
which is beautifully laid out (views of Catskills and Helderbergs).
It contains a small lake, a bronze statue of Robert Burns, and a
fountain with a figure of Moses (by J. Massey Rhind). — To the S.W.
of Washington Park are the Bender Laboratory^ the Albany Hospital
(PI. A, 4), the Alms Houses, and the Dudley Observatory (beyond
PI. A, 4), a weU-equipped institution, which has done good astronom-
ical work (adm. on previous written application to the Director).
In Washington Avenue (PI. B, 0, 3, 4; street-cars) is the hand-
some Harmanus Bleecker Hall, transformed into a theatre in 1898.
Adjoining, at the corner of Lark St., is the State Armoury (PL B, 3).
One block to the E. is the new building of the Albany Historical
and Art Society (PL B, C, 4), with its museum.
A little to the E., occupying the whole block bounded by
Washington Ave., Swan, Lafayette, and Hawk Sts., with a wing
extending back to Elk St., is the new State Education Building
(PL C, 4), designed by Messrs. Palmer & Horubostel and to be
completed in 1910 at a cost of $ 3.500,000.
This building will contain the valuable State Library (over 500,(XX) vols.),
the State Museum of Natural Hixtory, the Library School, and the offices of
the State Department of Education.
In S. Swan St., just to the N. of the Education Buildins, is the
Episcopal *Cathedral of All Saints (PL C, 4), begun in 188^ and
the first regularly organized Protestant cathedral erected in the
United States.
The choir, with its large E. window, has been finished, but the rest
of the building lacks the courses above the triforium (at present replaced
by a temporary roof), and the towers also have still to be added. Its
style is English Gothic. The architect is Mr. R. W. Gibson. The six nave
windows commemorate six of the oldest Dutch families in Albany. The
choir-stalls are from Bruges (1623).
"We may go on from here by electric car (5 c.) to (20 min.) the Rural
Cemetery and (1/2 hr.) Watervliet (p. 91). Visitors to the *Rural Cemetery
have V2 M. to walk (to the left) after leaving the car, when they reach
the tasteful lodge of the cemetery to the right and the gate of the St.
Agnes R. C. Cemetery to the left. The chief lion of the Rural Cemetery is
the figure of the ^Angel at the Sepulchre, by E. D. Palmer (iSl7-i904), to
reach which we turn to the left at the lodge and follow, as nearly as
possible, the railing of the St. Agnes Cemetery, until we reach the top of
the S. Ridge (*Views). Close by is the tomb of Oen. Schuyler (p. 93) and a
little to the N. is that of President Arthur (1.^30-86).
The Fil'ration Plant of Albany i>* of great interest to engineers and is
frequently visited by experts. The filter-beds lie about halfway between
the railway-station and the Rural Cemetery (beyond PI. E, 1).
96 Route 6. COOPERSTOWN.
Among points of interest witMn easy reach of Albany, besides the
Hudson River places of E. 4, are Saratoga (p. 119), the Gatskills (p. 9),
the Adirondacks (p. 104), Sharon Springs, Cooperstown (see below), and Lake
George (p. 122). Shakers^ 6 SI. to the N.W., was the original Shaker settle-
ment in America (1774) and is the burial-place of Mother Ann Lee (d. 1784).
6. From Albany to Binghamton.
143 M. Del A WAKE akd Hudson Ratlkoad (Susquehanna Division) in
41/4-5 hrs. (fare $ 4.25; parlor-car 75 c.).
Tlie line ascends towards the W. At (11 M.) Voorheesville (p. 139)
we cross tlie West Shore R. R. To the left are the Eelderberg Mts.,
whence the Helderherg limestone formations are named. Near (14 M.)
Meadowdale is the fine cliff known as the 'Indian Ladder'. — 17 M.
Altamont (Helderherg Inn, from $ 21/2)5 "^ith many conntry-honses,
is the hest headquarters for exploring the Helderherg Mts. — At
(27 M.) Delanson (800 ft), where the line from MechanicviUe and
Saratoga joins onrs, we see to the left the singular trestle-work of the
Dvdge Coal Storage Apparatus. — From (36 M.^ Schoharie Junction a
hranch-line runs to (4 M.) Schoharie and (10 M.) Middleburgh.
45 M. CoUeskill (900 ft. ; Angnstan, $ 2) is the junction of a
hranch-line to (14 M.) Sharon Springs and (23 M.) Cherry Valley.
Sharon Springs (Pavilion, 3 4; Sharon House, $2V2-3; Union Ho., from
S 3 ; Manhattan, $ 21/2; Howland Ho., $ 2), finely situated in a little wooded
valley, 1200 ft. above the sea, has frequented sulphur and chalybeate springs,
chiefly used for bathing. Just below the Baths the stream forms a pretty
waterfall, 60 ft. high. The piazza at the back of the Pavilion Hotel
commands an extensive *View over the Mohatok Vallet/ (p. 130), with the
Adirondacks in the background. The view from ''Prospect Hill, 3^/2 M.
to the N.W., on the road to Cherry Valley, is still finer.
23 M. Cherry Valley (1320 ft.), another Httle summer-resort, with hotels
and boarding-houses. In 1778 the inhabitants were all massacred or taken
prisoner bv the Tories and Indians. A pleasant drive may be taken to
(14 M.) Richfield Springs (p. 131; stage).
50 M. Richmondville ; 67 M. Schenevus. A little farther on we
cross the watershed between the Mohawk and the Susquehanna. —
76 M. Colliers, for a short line to (16 M.) Cooperstown.
Cooperstown (1240 ft.; Otsego Hall, S2V2-3V2; Fenimore Ho., $2-3; Park
Hotel, from $2; large new hotel building on the lake-front), a village of
(1905) 2446 inhab., prettily situated at the lower (S.) end of Otsego Lake,
was founded in 1786 by Wm. Cooper, father of /. Fenimore Cooper (1789-1851),
the novelist, who lived and died here and immortalized the district in his
romances. *Otsego Lake (the 'Glimmerglass'' of Cooper), 9 M. long and
^4-1^/2 M. wide, is one of the prettiest of the 5Tew York lakes. The Susqu-e-
hanna issues from it at the foot of River St., near Council Rock and the
site of the dam erected by Gov. Clinton during the Revolution.
To reach the site of the old Cooper Mansion, where the novelist lived
from 1834 to his death in 1851, we descend Main St. and turn to the right
at Fair St. (first cross-street beyond the Park Hotel). It is marked by a
statue of an Indian Hunter, and its grounds have been converted into
a public park. The building opposite the main entrance contains a library
and a collection of relics referring to Cooper and Cooperstown. Cooper
is buried in the graveyard of Christ Church (1819; in which he worshipped),
reached by turning to the left beyond the site of the house.
A small steamer plies regularly on Otsego Lake (round trip 35 c.). The
drive or walk round the lake (ca. 20 M.) is pleasant. Crossing the Susque-
WestAQiens
THE CATSKILL MTS. 7. Route. 97
hajina at the foot of Main St., we reach (5 min. cross-roads, where
walkers may ascend the steps to the right through wood. In 13 min. we
cross a road and, keeping to the left, reach (3-4 min.) the summer-house
on Prospect Rock (1440 ft.), commanding a splendid *View of Cooperstown
and the lake. Returning to (3-4 min.) the road we crossed, we descend it
to (10 min.) the above-mentioned fork. We then continue our route along
the lake, the tree-shaded road recalling that along the W. bank of Winder-
mere. 7 min. Cemetery^ containing a monument to Cooper. About 2-3 min.
farther on a path descends to the left to the Fairy Spring. About 1/2 M.
beyond the cemetery is a rough path (right) ascending to (10 min.) NoAty
Bumpo''s Gave (view). Point Judith, with Kingfisher's Tower, is 1 M. farther on.
In following the W. shore of the lake we pass many of the places
mentioned in Gooper''s 'Deerslayer'. V2 M. Eannalit Hill andi/MSi Rat Cove;
21/2 M. Leatherstocking Falls; 3 M. Three Mile or Wild Rose Point, where
Hetty Hutter landed. Adjacent is Mohican Glen. From Five -Mile Point
a road ascends to the top of Mt. Otsego (2800 ft. ; view-tower), commanding
an extensive *View. 6 M. Hutter^s Point, near which take place the final
scenes of the story. A white buoy in the lake marks the site of 'Butter's
Castle', on a sunken island. The Steamboat Landing is 1 M. farther on.
An electric tramway runs from Cooperstown to (15 M.) Richfield SpiHngs
(p. 131), and numerous other walks and drives may be made. It is 13 M.
from Cherry Valley and 20 M. from Sharon Springs (p. 96).
82 M. Oneonta (1085 ft.), with railway-workshops and a trade
in hops; 99 M. Unadilla (The Ontio, $ 21/2-3; Hotel Bishop, $ 2),
a pleasant summer - resort ; 119 M. Nineveh, the junction of a
"branch to Wilkes-Barre (p. 183). — 133 M. Sanitaria Springs
(1110 ft.), with sulpho- phosphate and other mineral springs, has
a large Hydropathic Establishment ($ 11/2-3 per day, from $ 7 a week).
143 M. Binghamton (865 ft.), see p. 141.
7. The Catskill Mountains.
The chief gateways to the Catskill Mts. are Kingston (p. 90) and Cats-
kill (p. 98), both situated on theW. bank of the Hudson and both reached
from New York by Steamer (E. 4a; fares $ 1, $ IV2), by West Shore Rail-
road (R. 4c; $ 1.76, $ 2.18), or by N. Y. C. & H. R. Railroad (R. 4b) and
ferry ($ 1.76, S 2.33). Through-tickets are issued on these routes to the chief
resorts in the mountains, the fares varying from § 2.18 to $ 4.70. The
Mts. may be approached from the N.W. via Oneonta and Stamford (p. 104).
The *Catskills, the Indian Onti Ora or '•Mts. of the Sky'', are an out-
lying group of the great Appalachian system, running parallel with the
Hudson for about 12-15 M., at a distance of 8-9 M. from its W. bank. They
lie mainly in Greene Co., New York, and cover an area of about 500 sq. M.
Their name is of Dutch origin and is generally referred to the wild-cats
that infested them, though this explanation is doubtful (kill = stream,
gorge). Towards the E. their declivity is very abrupt, and as seen from
the Hudson they appear like an almost vertical wall 2000-3000 ft. high. On
the other sides the slopes are more gradual. Deep ravines, known as
'Cloves' (South African Dutch Kloof), are cut into many of the mountains
by mountain-torrents. The highest summits are Slide Mt. (4205 ft. ; p. 103)
and Hunter Mt. (4025 ft. ; p. 102). An additional attraction of the Catskills
is the part they play in the scant legendary lore of America (comp. p. 98).
Their picturesque scenery, cool and healthy atmosphere, and easy access-
ibility have made them a favourite summer-resort; and numerous good
hotels and boarding-houses (mostly open June -Sept.) now sprinkle the
entire district. The most frequented of these are the Kaaterskill Hotel
and the Catskill Mountain House (see pp. 100, 99). A glimpse at the chief
points of interest may be obtained in a day by a round trip from Catskill
yy Route 7. CATSKILL. The Catskill
to either of the just-mentioned hotels and thence via Stony Clove and the
Kaaterskill Railroad to Tannersville, Phoenicia^ and Kingston (or in the reverse
direction); but a stay of 1-3 weeks is desirable for a closer acquaintance
with the mountains. The Catskill railways generally cease running in
winter. Fair trout- fishing is obtained in the mountain -streams. The
reddish, greenish, and bluish sandstone to which the name Catskill has
been attached belongs to the latest Devonian formations of America.
a. From Catskill to the Catskill Mountain House and the Hotel
Kaaterskill.
Catskill (95 ft. ; Grant House, 1 M. to the W., with view, $ 4;
Smith Ho., $2-3), a viUage with (1905) 5294 inhab. and a Francis-
can college, is finely situated on the W. bank of the Hudson, at the
mouth of the Catskill Creek. There are numerous pleasant walks and
drives in the vicinity, and boating and fishing may be enjoyed on
the two rivers. It is a station of the Hudson steamers (p. 85) and
the West Shore R. R. (p. 91).
Catskill is the starting-point of the narrow-gauge Catskill
Mountain Railsoad, which runs hence to (13 M.) Cairo (35-45 min.)
and to (16 M.) Palenville (3/4 hr.). The railway ascends the Catskill
Creek, passing through Austinis Glen and showing the remarkable
upheavals of the strata, to (8 M.) South Cairo and (10 M.) Cairo
Junction^ where the Cairo branch (3 M.) diverges to the right.
Cairo (345 ft.; Columbian, $2-3; Winter Clove Ho.., $2; Glen Falls Bo.,
4 M. from station, $ 2) is an unpretending little summer-resort, commanding
a good view of the Catskills.
Beyond Cairo Junction the train skirts the base of Cairo Round
Top Mt. 11 i/o M. Lawrenceville. — I3V2M. Mountain House Station,
where the road to the (41/4 M.) Catskill Mt. House (p. 99) begins.
The 'Road from the Mountain House Station to the Mountain House
(4V4 M.) ascends very rapidly, and good walkers can accomplish the
distance almost as fast as a carriage. After passing through (V2 M.) the
toll-gate at the foot of the mountain, we turn to the left and ascend to
Sleepy ffoUoic, the scene of Rip van Winkle's famous adventure, and to
(1 M.) the Rip van Winkle Bouse (1275 ft.). A slab of rock is pointed out
as the actual spot of his twenty years" slumber ! Farther on the road toils
up the 'Dead <)x HilF, rounds 'Cape Horn", passes the 'Short Level', again
turns abruptly to the left, climbs 'Featherbed Hiir, traverses the 'Long
Lever, passes the top of the Otis Elevating Railway (see below), and leads
to the W. or rear entrance of the Catskill Mt. Bo', (p. 99).
15 M. Otis Junction, the starting - point of the Otis Elevat-
ing RailW'AY, which leads directly to Otis Summit in 10 min.,
ascending 1600 ft. in I1/3 M. (fare 75 c). The top of this railway
is connected with the Catskill Mt. House (p. 99) by a covered
walk. It reduces the time of the journey from Catskill to the
Mountain Ho. to 50 min. (from New York 3^/o-i hrs.).
Otis Summit is also the station for the (1 M.) Botel Kaaterskill (p. 100).
From Otis Summit to Tannersville, 51/4 M., Catskill & Tannersville
Railway in '/s hr. — This line, which practically duplicates the KaaterskiU
branch of the Ulster & Delaware R. R. (see p. 102), has stations at the
(2 M.) Laurel Bouse, (374 M.) The Antlers (p. IQd), Haines Corners (31/2 M.;
for Twilight, Sunset, and Santa Cruz Parks; see p. 103), and (43/4 M.) Clum
Road. — 51/4 M. Tannersville, see p. 102.
Mountains. CATSKILL MOUNTAIN HOUSE. 7. Route. 99
16 M. Palenville {Stony Brook Ho., $ 2-3; Pine Grove Ho.,
$21/2; Palenville Ho., 1 M. from the station, $2), finely situated
at tlie entrance to tlie Kaaterskill Clove (see IdbIow), lies 3 M. from
the Kaaterskill Hotel. Palenville is much frequented by artists,
and many pleasant walks and drives may be made from it. Coaches
run hence to Haines^ Falls and Tannersville (p. 102; $ 1).
The *Kaaterskill Clove is a narrow wooded ravine, like the 'Notches' of
the White Mts. (pp. 325, 329), enclosed by South Mountain (see below) on the
right and High Peak (p. lOi") and Round Top (p. 100) on the left. A rough
road ascends through the Clove, crossing the creek 1 M. from the station.
1/3 M. Artisfs Grotto and La Belle Falls. A little farther on are two land-
slips. At (1 M.) Profile Rock we cross the creek (profile seen by looking
back from the bridge). V* M. Fawn'' s Leap; 1/4 M. Buttermilk Falls; 1/4 M.
Bridge over Lake Creek. Here we may either turn to the right and follow
the lateral ravine to (1 M.) the Kaaterskill Falls or take the path up the
Clove proper to (I1/4 M.) Haines'' Falls (p. 103). The road ascends to {V-ji M.)
the Haines'' Falls House (p. 1U3).
The 'Road feom Palenville to the Hotel Kaateeskill (8 M.; see
above; coach-fare $ IV2, trunk 50 c) runs from the station to the W.
through the village, then turns to the right, and ascends along the N. side
of the Kaaterskill Clove (see above). In IV2 M. we cross the so-called Gulf,
with the Point of Rocks and Indian Head high above us to the right, and
about V2 M. farther on we bend back on our course and proceed for some
distance to the E., climbing towards (V2 M.) the head of the Gulf, several
hundred feet above the point where we crossed it below. To the left
diverges the Ledge Drive (p. lOU), In 1/2 M. more we reach the hotel (p. 100).
The Catskill Mountain House (2250 ft. ; $ 4 per day, $ 17V2-25
per week, ace. to room and season ; 400 beds) is magnificently
situated on the ridge of South or Pine Orchard Mountain (2500 ft).
The **yiew from the rocky ledges in front of the hotel is of a
unique beauty and interest (shown by search -light, 9-11 p.m.).
Golf-links have been laid out near the hotel.
The E. escarpment of the mountain rises so abruptly from the plain,
that the eifect is almost as if we were leaning out of the car of a balloon
or over the battlements of a castle 2000 ft. high. The plain between the
mountains and the Hudson, 10 M. off, is spread out at our feet like a
low-relief map, with chessboard squares of fields, patches of woodland,
villages, and farm-houses. Catskill is distinctly seen due E., and Athens
Cp. 86) and Hudson (p. 88) may be made out a little more to the K.
The moving trains on the banks of the Hudson are curiously distinct and
minute. TheE. background is formed by the blue Berkshire Hills (p. 337),
over which the shadowy White Mts. (p. 3-0) are sometimes visible.
Walks. By following the road leading towards North Mt. and North
Lake and taking the first path to the right, we soon reach (10 min.) the
ArtisVs Rock, on the E. ledge of N. Mt. (view), beyond which the path
ascends some steps and reaches (3 min.) Prospect Rock, which commands
a very extensive *View. The ledge-path next leads to (5 min.) Sunset
Rock, beyond which it bends to the left to (7 min.) JacoVs Ladder and
the Bear''s Den (*View). The ledge-path ends at Newman'' s Ledge (view of
Sleepy Hollow, p. 9>), 10-12 min. beyond the Bear's Den. — The path
to the left at the fork, 5 min. beyond the Bear's Den, ascends towards the
crest of North Mountain (33 Oft.), a walk round which takes inall4-5hrs.
The path crosses the ''Burnt Districf to (20 min. from Bear's Den) the
cavity called the Cellar. Here we bend towards the left and walk round
the crest to (1/2 hr.) the so-called ^First Outlook, at the top of the moun-
tain, and (10 min.) the Second Outlook. The trail descending from this point
through the trees is sometimes a little difficult to follow; but there is
little danger of being lost if the general direction of the hotel be taken
100 Route 7. HOTEL KAATERSKILL. The CaUkill
at the Outlook and followed ty compass. An additional help in case of
doubt is the water-pipe leading to the hotel (IV2-2 hrs.)- It is not advis-
able to try this walk alone. — By following the path to the left at the
entrance to the North Mt. walk, passing the E. end of North Lake, and
ascending along the stream, we reach (V2 hr.) Mary''s Glen^ with small
waterfalls. "We may return by crossing the stream above the falls and
following a path leading S.W. to (1/4 hr.) the main road, which we reach
at the Charcoal Pit, 1/3 M. from the hotel.
The Catskill Mt. House is about 1 M. to the N.E. of the Kaaterskill
Hotel (see below), and the excursions made from the latter (see below) can
all be made from the former also.
The *Hotel Kaaterskill (2495 ft; $4-5 per day, $21-25 per
week; 1200 beds), the most fashionahle resort in the Catskills, is
situated on one of the highest points of South Mt. (p. 99) and com-
mands a view little, if at all, inferior to that from the Mountain House
(see p. 99). Immediately to the S.W. rise High Peak (p. 101) and
Bound Top (3470 ft), thickly clad with timber from top to bottom,
and due W. is Hunter Mt. (p. 102). Kaaterskill Station (p. 103)
lies about 3/^ M. to the N.W., at the end of South Lake (p. 103).
Walks. Most of the paths, roads, and points of interest are clearly
indicated by sign-posts and arrows painted on the rocks.
i. To the Catskill Mt. House, I-IV4 M. DifiFerent paths, indicated by
sign-posts, begin in front (E.) and to the N. of the hotel, and lead via the
Fairy Spring, the Mossy Path, the Druid Rocks, the Lemon Squeezer, and
the Ledge Path. The last skirts the E. edge of the mountain, affording fine
views of the Hudson Valley, the best from the so-called (1/2 M.) Grand
View. A short digression may be made to the left to the top of South
Mountain (p. 99; 'View). — A pleasant round may be made by going via
the Ledge Path and returning via the Druid Rocks, making a complete
circuit of South 3It.
2. Palenville Overlook, l^AM. The path leads to the S.E. from the hotel.
The ^Overlook (1660 ft.) commands a fine view of Kaaterskill Clove (p. 99).
3. Inspiration Point and Sunset Rock, 1 M. A path beginning at the
hotel-stables (to the S.W. of the hotel) leads through low wood, crossing a
road, to (1/3 M.) a point on the Ledge Drive, where stands a sign-post in-
dicating the path to (1/4 M.) Inspiration Point (*View), overlooking Kaaters-
kill Clove. Thence we follow the path along the brink of the Clove to
(1/4 M.) 'Sunset Rock (2120 ft.), which commands a magnificent view of
the Clove and of the tree-clad mass of High Peak (see above). — "We may
continue this walk to Kaaterskill Falls (see below), either by the paths on
the level of the rock or by descending the ladder-steps to the'bottom of the
Clove. The easiest route to follow is the path to the extreme right ('To Hotel
Kaaterskill'), which ascends to (5 min.) the Ledge Drive. We follow this
road to the left, and in about 1 min., turning twice to the left, reach the
Laurel Bouse and the Falls (see below).
4. Laurel House and Kaaterskill Falls, IM. We may either follow the
road leading to the S.W. from the front of the Hotel and' joining, (3/4 M.) the
Ledge Drive (see above), or we take a path leading W. from the Annex to
(4min.) an old 'logging road', which leads to the left and joins the Ledge
Drive near the Laurel House. — The Laurel House (2065 ft. ; $ 2V2-4 per day,
$ 15-25 per week) is situated at the head of the Kaaterskill Falls, 300yds.
from the railway-station mentioned at p. 98. — The "Kaaterskill Falls
in an imposing rocky amphitheatre, reached by a flight of steps behind the
hotel (adm. 25 c.), are 260 ft. in height, in two leaps of 180 ft. and 80 ft.
In dry weather the water is dammed up at the head of the falls and turned
on for visitors like the Lichtenhain Waterfall in the Saxon Switzerland,
A little lower down are the Bastion Falls (40 ft.). — A good view of the
Falls is obtained from Prospect Rock, on the S. side of the Clove, reached
by a path (V2 M.) from the Laurel House.
Mountains. OVERLOOK MT. 7. Route. 101
5. To Haines' Falls, 21/2-81/2 M. The most direct route is by a forest
path from Prospect Rock (p. 100), which comes out on (1 M.) Featheried
Lane (see below), about 1/2 M. from the Falls. This route is a little diffi-
cult to find unaided, but the following is quite distinct. To the Laurel
House, as above, 1 M. Hence we follow the road to theW,, crossing boih
railways. On reaching the (V2 M.) main road we follow it to the left for
11/4 M. We then descend to the left by Featherbed Lane (also crossing the
railways) to the (1/2 M.) bottom of the Clove, turn to the right, and reach
the 0/4 M.) Haines^ Falls House (p. 103), where a placard indicates the way
to the Falls (p. 103).
Other short walks may be made to (V2 M.) the Boulder and to the
points mentioned in connection with the Mountain House at p. 99.
The ascent of Iforth Mi. (p. 99) takes about 1 hr. — That of High
Peak (3660 ft.) takes IV2-2V2 hrs. from the Haines' Falls House (p. 103)
and is rather toilsome, but the view is very fine.
Longer ExGUEsiONS, by railway or carriage, may be made to Tannersville
and Onieora Park (p. 102; 5-8 M.), Stony Clove (p. 102), Catskill (p. 98),
Sleepy Hollow (p. 98), Overlook Mi. (see below), Flattekill Clove (p. 102), etc.
b. From Kingston (Rondout) to the Hotel Kaaterskill.
48 M. Ulstek and Delawaee Railkoad in 21/2 hrs. (fare $ 1.35). This
line skirts the S. and W. sides of the Catskills. Through-carriages run
by this route from New York and Philadelphia to Tannersville, Haines'
Corners, the Laurel House, the Hotel KaaterskiU, and many other points.
The Day Line steamers connect directly with the railway at Kingston Point.
The regular terminns of the railway is at Rondout (p. 90), hut
the track has been extended, to Kingston Point, the steamboat
landing 2 M. to the E. After leaving Rondont the train stops at
(3 M. from Kingston Point) the Union Station in Kingston (p. 90).
The line ascends gradually through the beautiful valley of the Eso-
pus. 9 M. Stony Hollow (410 ft.). — 10 M. West Hurley (530 ft.)
is the starting-point of the road (coach $ 1=25) to (9 M.) the top
of Overlook Mt. (3150 ft.), near which stands the Overlook Mt.
House ($ 3 ; 2980 ft. ; 300 beds), a favourite resort, the *Yiew from
which, embracing the Hudson , the Highlands (p. 84) , and the
Catskills, is considered by some authorities the finest in the dis-
trict. Mead's Mountain House ($ 2), about halfway up the mountain
(7 M. from the railway ; stage $ 1), is well spoken of. Quarters may
also be obtained at Aaron Riseley's farm, at Woodstock, 4 M. from
West Hurley station. — Beyond (16 M.) Brown's Station, to the left,
may be seen some of the preliminary work for the main dams of the
Ashokan Reservoir (see p. 70).
The largest of these dams is to be 220 ft. high and 4800 ft. long. Taken
together the dama will aggregate 20,000 ft. in length and vsdll convert
part of the fair valley of the Esopus into a lake 12 M. long and 3/4-4 M.
wide (about twelve times as large in area as the Lake Vyrnwy reservoir
for Liverpool; see Baedeker''s Great Britain). The water will be conveyed
hence to New York (86 M.) by a concrete aqueduct 17 ft. high and 171/2 ft.
wide, and will pass under the Hudson at Storm King (p. 87) by a huge
syphon -tunnel. The daily supply to the city will amount to at least
500 million gallons. The estimated cost of the whole undertaking is
$ 162,000,000.
Near (20 M.) STiokan (535 ft.) High Point Mt. (3100 ft.) is con-
spicuous to the left. The train now turns to the N., disclosing, to
102 Route?. TANNERSVILLE. The CatskiU
the left, a fine semicircle of mountains, sending off radiating spurs
to a common centre (the two most to the right are Mt. Wittenberg,
3802ft., and Mt, Cornell,3206 ft.}. Near (22 M.) Boiceville we twice
cross the Esopus. — Beyond (26 M.) Mt. Pleasant (700 ft.} the valley
contracts 5 to the left rises Panther Mt. (3760 ft.}. Indian Head (see
helow} and other high mountains are seen to the right.
28 M. Phoenicia (800 ft. ; Tremper House, with fine view, $ 3-4},
the junction of the Stony Clove Railroad (see helow}, is pleasantly
situated and a good centre for excursions (to the top of Mt. Witten-
berg, Stony Clove, Woodland Valley, Big Indian Valley, etc.}. — We
now leave the main line and ascend hy the Stony Clove branch
(views to the left} through *Stony Clove, a beautiful wooded ravine
between Mt. Sheridan (2207 ft.} and Hunter Mt. (4025 ft.} on the
left and Mt. Tremper (2740 ft.} and Stony Mt. (3855 ft.} on the
right. — 30 M. Chichester, with a chair factory ; 33 M. Lanesville,
with a fine view (left} of the Diamond Notch, Hunter Mt., and Big
West Kill Mt. (3925 ft. ; to the W.}. To the left are deep ravines
between the spurs of Hunter Mt. Soon after passing (36 M.} Edge-
wood (1785 ft.}, we reach the top of the pass (2070 ft.} and begin
to descend. — 40 M. Kaaterskill Junction (1700 ft.} , whence the
KaatersMll Division diverges to the right (through-cars}.
The Hunter branch of the railway goes on to (43M.) Hunter (1645ft.;
West End, 3 ^Vz; Prospect Ho., $ 2; Hunter Ho., S 2-3), close to the base of the
Colonefs Chair (3165 ft.) and 2 M. to the N. of Hunter Mt. (see above), both of
which summits may be ascended hence. Fine drives may be taken to the
Overlook Mt. Ho. (14 M.) and the Hotel Kaaterskill (11 M.) ; and nearer points
of interest are Mossy Brook (1 M.), Onteora Park (see below), and Stony Glove.
The Kaateeskill Raileoad ascends towards the E. — 43 M.
Tannersville (1860 ft; Hotel Martin, $ 2-21/2, open aU the year;
Blythewood, $2'/2} occupies one of the most conveniently central
situations in the CatskiUs.
Clum Hill (2300 ft.), ^/i M. to the S., easily ascended in Vztr,, aflfords
a good view, including the Kaaterskill Falls (p. 100; rail, station, see p. 98).
— About 2 M. to the N. is Onteora Park (Bear & Fox Inn), a cottage colony
belonging to a club which includes several well-known writers, artists, and
musicians. The enclosure is private, but visitors will generally be allowed,
on application at the gate, to ascend to (20 min.) the top of Onteora Mt.
(2-^80 ft.), the *View from which includes High Peak, Round Top, the Kaaters-
kill Hotel, Twin Mt., Sugar Loaf, Plateau Mt., Htinter Mt., Round Hill,
Thomas Cole Mt., Black Dome, and Black Head. — Onteora Mt. and its
neighbour Parker Mt. are separated by the Parker Notch from Star Rock
(2515 ft. ; to theE.), another good point of view. — TheBlack Dome (3990ft.),
about 3 M. to the N.N.E. of Parker Mt., afifords a fine panorama of the
valley in which Tannersville lies and the mountains enclosing it. Slide
Mt. (p. 103) is seen to the right, over the shoulder of Hunter Mt. — To
the S. of Clum Hill (see above) extends the fine *Plattekill Clove (road),
between Roimd Top and High Peak (p. 100) to the left and Sugar Loaf or
Mink Mt. (3782 ft.), Twin Mt. (3647 ft.), and Indian Head (3585 ft.) to
the right. About 6 M. from Tannersville are the "Plattekill Falls (60 ft.),
near which is the Plattekill Mt. Hou-e. A road (*Views) ascends to the
right to (6 M.) the Overlook Mt. House (p. 101). — About 8 M. to the S.
of Tannersville, on the slope of Sugar Loaf Mt., is Elka Park, the property
of the Lieder-Eranz ('L. K.') of New York, with a club-house. This is
Mountains. HAINES' CORNERS. 7. Route. 103
adjoined by the Schoharie Manor^ a similar association, with a large club-
house in the Colonial style.
From Tannersville to Otis Summit Station by the CatsMll & Tanners-
ville Railway, see p. 98.
Beyond Tannersville the train soon reaches (45 M.) Haines'
Corners (1920 ft. 5 names' Falls Ho., Glen Park Eo., Lox Hurst,
$2), tie nearest station to (V2 M.) Haines' Falls (see "below).
*Haines' Falls, at the head of Kaaterskill Clove (p. 99), consist of
two main leaps, 150-160 ft. and 80 ft. high, with other plunges lower down,
making in all a descent of 475 ft. in V* M. The water is dammed up in
dry weather and the sluices opened for visitors (fee 25 c.). The environ-
ment of the falls is very picturesque. The bridge above the falls leads
to Twilight or Haines'' Falls Park (Twilight Eest, Lodge End Inn, Squirrel
Inn, $2-3), another cottage-colony like Onteora Park (p. 102). Adjacent
are Sunset Parle (Inn, $ 4), and Santa Cruz Park (The Lodge, $ 2-3). About
1/2 M. to the E. of Haines' Corners s'ation is The Antlers Hotel (S 3-3V2), vvith
a rail, station of its own (p. 98). — From Haines' Falls to the Kaaterskill
Falls and Hotel, see pp. 99, 101.
The train now traverses wood to (47 M.) Laurel House Station
(2065ft.), 300yds. from the Laurel House and the Kaaterskill Falls
(see p. 100). The falls are seen to the right jnst before we reach
the station, — 48 M. Kaaterskill Station (2145 ft. ; carriages and
stages meet all trains) , situated at the W. end of South Lake, a
pretty little sheet of water. The road to the (^/^ M.) Hotel Kaaterskill
crosses the bridge to the S. and leads throngh wood. The Catskill
Mountain House is 1 M. distant (comp. p. 99).
c. From Rondout (Kingston) to Oneonta.
108 M. Ulster and Delaware Railroad in 4-4^/4 hrs. (fare $ 3.15;
parlor-car 50 c). Through-cars from New York, comp. p. 101.
From Kingston Point (Rondout) to (28 M.) Phoenicia, see pp. 101,
102. To the left, beyond Phoenicia, rises Mt. Garfield (2532 ft.).
From (33 M.) Shanddken (1060 ft. ; Palace, $ 3) coaches run throngh
the Deep Notch to West Kill and Lexington. — 37 M. Big Indian
(1210 ft. ; Joslyn Ho., 2 M. np the valley, $ I1/2 ; small inn at the
station) lies at the month of Big Indian Valley, with the head-
waters of the Esojpus.
This is the starting-point for a visit to (11 M.) Slide Mi. (see below).
A road ascends Big Lidian Valley (stages to Winnisook Lodge in summer,
fare 75 c), with Balsam Mt. (3592 ft.) to the right and Panther Mt. (3760 ft.)
to the left. Several small hotels are passed. 5 M. Dutcher''s Panther Mt.
House (2000 ft. ; unpretending, $ 172)5 the nearest hotel to Slide Mt., where
a guide may be obtained. The road ends, 8 M. farther on, at Winnisook
Lodge, a hunting-club and preserve. Hence a path (steep at first, then easy;
1-2 hrs.) ascends to the left to the top of Slide Mt. (4205 ft.), Jhe highest
of the Catskills. The *View from the tower here is very extensive, em-
bracing about 70 peaks in the Catskills, Mt. Everett in Massachusetts
(due E.; p. 338), etc. — A road leads across from the head of Big Indian
Valley into (41/2 M.) Woodland Valley, near Phoenicia (p. 102).
The gradient here is very steep. 40 M. Pine Hill (1660 ft. ; Rip
van Winkle Ho., from $ 3; Hollywood Lodge, $ 3), below the rail-
way to the right. — 42 M. Grand Hotel Station (1885 ft.) is the
highest point of the line, on the watershed between the Hudson
Bakdekek''s United States. 4th Edit. 7
104 Route 7. STAMFORD.
and the Delaware. To the right, on the slope of Summit Hill (2500 ft.),
stands the *Grand Hotel (from $ 5), one of the most fashionahle re-
sorts of the Catskills. It commands a splendid *View, including Belle
Ayr, Big Indian, and Slide Mts. Adjacent are some smaller hotels.
The train now descends, making a bend to the left, to (45 M.)
Fleischmanns or Griffins Corners (1515 ft.), which lies like a toy-
town in the valley to the right. 49 M. Arkville (1345 ft. ; Hoff-
mann Ho. ; Commercial Ho., $1V25 Ackerley Ho., at Margaretville,
1 M. from the station, $ 2^2)- W© iiow descend along the E. hranch
of the Delaware. — 60 M. Boxhury (1500 ft.). — 66 M. Grand Gorge
(1570 ft.), between Bald Mt. (left) and Irish Mt. (right).
A stage runs hence to (5 M. ; fare 50 c.) Prafisville (Devasego Inn, $ 2),
with pretty falls and the curious Pratt Rocks, carved into fantastic shapes
and painted white by a Col. Pratt.
72 M. South Gilboa (1845 ft.).
75 M. Stamford (1765 ft. ; Rexmere^ from $ 41/2 ; Churchill Hall,
New Grant Ho., $ 3; Mountain View Ho., Hamilton, Westholm, $ 2),
pleasantly situated near the source of the W. branch of the Delaware,
is a quiet and inexpensive summer-resort. The favourite excursion
is to the top of Mt. Utsayantha (3365 ft; view; 2Y2 M. by road).
78 M. Hobart (1615 ft.) ; 87 M. Bloomville (1560 ft.; Bloom-
ville Ho., $11/2); 101 M. Davenport Centre (1220 ft.). — 104 M.
West Davenport (1180 ft.).
At (108 M.) Oneonta (1085 ft.) we join the line from Albany to
Binghamton (see p. 97).
Oneonta is also the junction of the Cooperstown branch of the Dela-
ware & Hudson R. R. (22 M., in I-IV2 hr.), traversing the ^Charlotte Valley.
— 6 M. Cooperstotvn Junction, and thence to (22 M.) Cooperstown, see p. 96.
8. The Adirondack Monntains.
Appeoaches. The Adirondacks are within 8-12 hrs. of ITew York by
railway (comp. RR. 11a, He), and the principal gatewavs to them are
Utica (p. 131), Plattsburg (p. 128), Port Kent (p. 1'26), Westport (p. 109),
Malone (p. 118), and Saratoga (p. 119). Plattsburg is 12 hrs. from Boston
via Burlington (comp. R. 42a). Fare from New York to Utica $ 5, parlor-
car § 11/2, sleeper $ 2; to Plattsburg $ 8, parlor-car $ 2, sleeper $ 2; to
Port Kent, $7.62; to Westport, $ 6.81; to Saratoga, §4.20; to North Creek
(p. 119), 3 5.85.
Geneeai, Featdees. The ^Adirondack Mountains, in the N. part
the State of New York, stretch from near Canada on the N. to near the
Mohawk River on the S. (120 31.), and from Lakes George and Champlain
on the E. to an indefinite and irregular line on the W. (ca. 80 M.), cover-
ing an area of about 8-10,000 sq. M. The mountains, which run in five
parallel ranges from S.W. to N.E., rise from an elevated plateau and many
of them are over or nearly 5000 ft. high. The highest range, or Adiron-
dacks proper, is on the E. side of the district; and the loftiest peaks are
Mts. Marcy (5346 ft.), Mclntyre (5112 ft.), Skylight (4920 ft.), Haystack (4918ft.),
Gray Peak (4902 ft.), Whiteface (4870 ft.), Dix (4842 ft.), and Basin (4825 ft.).
The whole of the district (the so-called '•Adirondack Wilderjiess''), except
the highest peaks, is densely covered with forest, much of which is still
virgin and almost unexplored. Lumbering is carried on very extensively,
and huge quantities of spruce, hemlock, and other timber are annually
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ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS. <S. Route. 105
sent down to tlie Hudson and St. Lawrence. The geological formations
of the Adirondacks are mainly granitic and other primary rocks. In
the valleys lie more than 1000 lakes, varying in size from a few acres
to 20 sq. M. (Schroon Lake) and in height above the sea from 807ft. (Schroon
Lake) to 4327 ft. ( Tear of the Clouds). The Hudson River rises in the Tear of
the Clouds (p. 114), and the Raquette^ Saranac, Aiisable, and numerous other
rivers and streams connect the labyrinth of lakes. This combination of
mountain, lake, and forest is, perhaps, unrivalled elsewhere, and the scen-
ery is of great and varied attraction. The fauna of the district includes
catamounts or 'panthers' {Felis Concolor; rare), black bears, wild -cats,
numerous deer, foxes, otters, badgers, rabbits, black eagles, hawks, loons,
wild ducks, partridges, herons, etc. ; while the lakes and streams are well
stocked with trout and bass. There are no rattlesnakes or other venomous
serpents. — A movement is on foot to set apart about 4000 sq. M. of the
Adirondacks as a State Park, but much of this is still in private hands.
Eesokts. The most frequented regions include the district of the Saranac
and St. Regis Lakes (pp. 107, 108, lUB), Lake Placid (p. 110), and Keene Valley
(p. Ill), all of which contain numerous hoi els and summer-camps. Through
the opening oi the Raquette Lake Railway (see p. 116), the beautiful Blue
Mi. and Raquette Lake region (pp. 117, 116) is also easily accessible. The less
mountainous districts to the W. are rarely penetrated except by sportsmen.
A fair general idea of the attractions of the Adirondacks may be ob-
tained by the following tour. From Plattshurg (p. 128) to Paul Smith''s
(p. 107) ; thence, via the St. Regis and Saranac Lakes, to Saranac Village and
Lake Placid, as described at pp. 107-llU-, from Lake Placid to Adirondack
Lodge (p. 114); thence to Summit Rock in the Indian Pass (p. 115) and back;
from Adirondack Lodge to Keene Valley (p. Ill), either by road or (pre-
ferable for good walkers) over Mt. Marcy (p. 114); thence to Elizabeth-
toum (p. 109) and Westport (p. 1(j9). This tour may be accomplished in
8-10 days. Those who have longer time may add the Tupper, Long, Raquette,
and Blue Mountain Lakes in the ways suggested at pp. 118, 116, 117.
Spokt. Leer, which are the chief object of the Adirondack sportsman,
are generally killed by 'still-hunting'. The practice of driving them into
the water by hounds and shooting them from a boat and jack-hunting''
(with a light at night) are now prohibited. The State Game Laws impose
stringent limitations on the indiscriminate massacre of the deer, and there
are now various reservations (comp. pp. 112, 115) in which the game is
strictly preserved. Non-rtsidents require a license ($20). An occasional
shot at a bear may be had in the remoter recesses. The shooting of Par-
tridges (ruffed grouse, Bonasa vmbellus) is carried on with the aid of dogs.
Good Fishing is obtained in many of the lakes and ponds. The intending
sportsman should put himself at once into communication with the local
talent. His outfit should be as plain, strong, and limited in extent as
possible. Comp. also p. xxii.
Camping is one of the chief features of Adirondack life; the camps
varying from the luxurious permanent 'Camp' of the regular visitor down
to the makeshift lean-to of the sportsman. Camping Parties are fre-
quently organized, and, with good guides, a cook, and efficient equip-
ments, afford a very pleasant variation of ordinary summer pleasures.
— Flies and mosquitoes are troublesome in June and July.
Guides are to be found at all the chief resorts, and the regular charge
is $ 3 a day, which includes the use of their boats and cooking and table
ware. Their keep is also paid by the traveller. When a guide is dis-
missed at a distance from his home, he expects the full daily fee and
allowance for food on his return-journey. For short trips one guide and
boat can take two persons, but for longer expeditions there should be a
guide to each traveller. The boats are small and light, so that they are
easily transported over the 'carries' between the lakes on the guide's shoul-
ders. When horses are used for the carries the employer pays for the
transportation. Nothing but small hand-baggage can be taken in the boats.
— The Adirondack Guides'" Association issues certificates and badges to its
members. In the absence of a graduated tariff, the same fee is demanded
for a short walk as for a severe day's work. The Brovm's Tract Guides^
7*
106 Route 8. CHATEAUGAY LAKES. Adirondack
Association (for the W. part of the Adirondacks) has its headquarters at
Boonville (p. 131).
The Hotels of the Adirondacks are generally comfortahle, and some
of the larger ones may even be termed luxurious. Prices vary greatly.
Expenses. The expenses of a rapid tour through the Adirondacks
are apt^to be somewhat high, as the guide's fee ($ 3) and keep ($ I-I1/2)
have to' be added to the traveller's personal expenses ($ 3-5). Camping
and sporting parties live, of course, much more cheaply than hotel-guests.
The information in the following pages will suffice for a rapid tour
through the Adirondacks, but those who contemplate a prolonged stay or
shooting and camping parties should procure the guidebook of S. R.
Stoddard of Glen Falls, N. Y. (with maps ; price 25 c), which is revised
annually and contains details of routes, outfit, and supplies. The best
available map is also published by Stoddard (50c. & $ 1). The 'folders'"
issued by the N. Y. C. and D. & H. Railroads are also useful.
a. From Flattsburg to St. Begis, Tapper, Saranac, and Placid
Lakes.
82 M. Lake Placid Bkanch of Delaware & Hudson R. R. to (78 M.)
Saranac Lake in 3V2-4 hrs. (fare $ 2.22; from New York $ 8.30); thence to
(9 M.) LaTte Placid in 1/2 hr. (fare 30 c. ; from New York $ 8.60). Through
sleeping and parlor-cars from New York.
Flattsburg, see p. 128. The train passes tlie U. S. Barracks (j^. 128)
and runs to the W. through the valley of the Saranac. It crosses
the river before and after (12 M.) Cadyville and then ascends to the
right, leaving the river. Beyond (17 M.) Dannemora (1810 ft), with
Clinton Prison, we make a wide sweep to the left, round Johnson
Mt. To the left is Lyon Mt. (3810 ft.). — 28 M. Chazy Lake
(1500 ft. 5 Lake Yiew Ho., $ 2), at the S. end of Chazy Lake (4 M.
long, 1 M. wide ; trout-fishing).
From (34 M.) Lyon Mountain, an iron-mining village, coaches
run to (31/2 M.) Ralph's ($ 2-3 a day ; fare 75 e.) and to (41/4 M.)
Merrill's ($ 2-272 5 fare 75 c), on the E. side of Upper Chateaugay
Lake (4 M. hy 1 M.). A small steamer plies on the Chateaugay
Lakes and a coach runs from the N. end of the Lower Lake
(31/2 M. X 3/4 M.) to (6 M.) Chateaugay Station, on the Rutland
R. R. (p. 312). — The railway now bends to the S. (left), affording
a good view of Chateaugay Lake to the right. 54 M. Loon Lake Station
lies at the N. end of Loon Lake (2 M. long) ; at the S. end of which
is the Loon Lake House ($ 4-5). To the right are Loon Lake Mt.
and Long Pond. At this point our line runs parallel with the Adiron-
dacks Division of the N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R. (see p. 116; trunk trans-
ferred from one line to the other for 10 c.) — 61 M. Onchiota. —
66 M. Bloomingdale is the nearest station on this line for Paul
Smith's, 7 M. to the W. (see below). — 73 M. Saranac Lake (see
p. 108). 76 M. Ames Mills; 77 M. Ray Brook; 81 M. Lyons. —
82 M. Lake Placid (see p. 110). The station lies about 1 M. from the
S. end of the lake (carr. fare to most of the hotels 25 c. ; trunk 25 c).
The St. Regis Lake House, known as Paul (properly Apollos)
Smith's, a hotel (500 beds; $4-5 a day, $21-30 a week; restaurant
Mountains. ST. REQIS LAKE HOUSE. 8. Route. 107
a la carte) on tlie N. bank of the Lower St. Regis Lake (1617 ft. 5 2 M.
X 1 M.), is one of the most frequented resorts in the district and may
be made the starting-point for a guide-boat tour of the N. Adiron-
dack lakes. It is connected by a private line with (5 M.) Lake Clear
Junction, on the Adirondack & St. Lawrence Division of the N. Y. C. &
H. R. R. R. (see p. 118), and is 4 M. from Paul SmitJis Station on the
same railway. Both the St. Regis Lakes are surrounded by numer-
ous camps, and good fishing and shooting are obtained in the neigh-
bourhood. Near Paul Smith's is the large Sanitarium Gabriel,
managed by Sisters of Mercy.
Among the finest camps are those of F. W. Vanderbilt (designed and
constructed by Japanese), A. R. Stokes, A. W. Burkee, C. G. Barney, and
Whitelaw Beid.
The following *Roijnd Trip is frequently made from Paul
Smith's, and affords an excellent idea both of the attractions of the
Adirondacks and of the ordinary methods of travelling.
The circuit is about 40-45 M., and 3 days should be allowed for it,
though more may profitably be spent, especially if any digressions are
made. Those who make the round trip quickly should engage their guide
and boats for the whole journey; others may hire from place to place
(comp. p. 105). The guides should be expressly instructed to go by the
distinctly preferable 'Seven Carry Route', as otherwise they will select
the 'Big Clear Route', on which two horse-carries ($ 1 and $ IV2) save
them some work and add to the tourist's expenses. If desired, heavy
baggage may be sent to Saranac Village by railway.
Leaving Paul Smith's , -we cross the Lower St. Regis Lake by
boat (I/2 M.); row to (3/4 M.) Spitfire Lake; cross this lake (V2 M.),
and row to the (1/2 M.) Upper St. Regis Lake (1617 ft.), which we
cross to (2 M.) its S. end. To the W. rises St. Regis Mt. (2882 ft.).
Here begins the carry to (IV2 M. ; fee for horse $1) Lake Clear CBig
Clear"), a pretty little lake, well stocked with fish, on the N. bank of
which stands Rice''s Lake Clear Hotel ($3; well spoken of). Lake Clear is
2 M. long, and a carry of 4 M. leads from its S. end to Saranac Inn (horse
for boat $11/2; seat in a carriage 50 c.).
On the Seven Carry Route we traverse six short carries and
six small ponds and reach (3 M.) Little Clear Pond, which is 1 M.
long and 2 M. from Saranac Inn (9 M. from Paul Smith's). In
either case we cross the N. Y. C. & H. R. R. Railroad.
Saranac Inn (from $ 4 ; telegraph-office ; golf) lies at the N. end
of Upper Saranac Lake, 13/4 M. from Saranac Inn Station (p. 118).
*TJpper Saranac Lake (1571 ft.), 71/2 M. long and 1/2-3 M. wide,
is one of the largest sheets of water in the district. It is dotted
with Islands and surrounded by thickly wooded and hiUy banks.
Small steamers ply on the lake (fare 75 c, round-trip $ 1), calling
at the Sweeny Carry (Wawbeek Lodge, $ 4-8, with tel. office), on
the W. bank, Indian Carry (Rustic Lodge, $ 21/2), at the S. end,
and Bartleti's or the Saranac Club, on the E. side.
Wawbeek Lodge is 9 M. to the E. (stage $ IV2) of TupperLdke Village, on
the New York & Ottawa R. R. (see p. 118). — The Sweeny Garry (3 31.; horse
for boat $ 2, seat in buckboard 50-75 c.) leads to Raquetie River (Tromblee's
Inn, $2), which may be ascended, with the help of a horse-carry ($1V*;
108 Route 8. SARANAC LAKES. Adirondack
seat in carr. 50 c.) round the Raquette Falls, to (ca. 20 M. j the E". end of Long
Lake (p. 117). Or we may descend the river to (11 M.) Tupper Lake (p. 118).
Indian Carry crosses to (1 M.) the Stony Creek Ponds (1640 ft. 5 Hiawatha
Ho., S 3-4) and to (3 M.) Axton, on the Raquette River (about 8 M. from
Tromblee's).
A short carry from tlie landing for Bartlett's (1/4 M. ; horse,
unnecessary, 50 c.) leads to the stream flowing into the (1/2 M.)
Middle Saranac Lake , more often called Bound Lake (1536 ft.), a
nearly circular sheet of water, 21/2 M. in diameter. This little lake
is sometimes lashed by violent squalls coming down from the hills,
and it is advisable to keep an eye on the weather. To the S.E.
rises Ampersand Mt. (3430 ft.; *View), the trail to the top of which
(ca. 21/2 M.) leads through the woods and is not easy to foUow
without a guide. At the N.E. corner of Round Lake we enter its
pretty outlet , descending to (2^/2 M.) the lower lake and passing
about halfway a series of rapids now passed by a lock. Small
steamers make two trips daily between Bartlett's and Saranac Lake
Village (fare $1.50; round trip, $2).
Lower Saranac Lake (1534 ft.), 5 M. long and 3/4-I1/4 M. wide,
is surrounded by wooded hills and sprinkled with 52 islands. Near
the lower (N.E.) end of the lake lies Saranac Lake Village, with
the stations of the N. Y. C. and D. & H. railways (p. 106). It is
now mainly frequented by consumptive patients, who derive much
benefit from the open-air treatment here. A small steamer usually
makes daily excursions round the lake (fares from 50 c. to $ 1).
The Algonqcin ($ 4) lies on the E. shore of the lake (omn. 50 c). The
Von Doeries ($ 21/2-8) is 1 M. to the iS"^. The Berkeley (§3-5) and the
Riverside ($ 21/2-4) are the chief hotels in the village itself. The Adibon-
DACK Sanitaeium (for consumptives) lies ca. 2 M. to the N.E.
Saranac Lake is 10 M. by road (railway, p. lf'6) from Lake Placid (p. 110).
The road turns to the right in the village, I1/2 M. from the lake, and passes
(21/2 M.) Ray Brook (p. 106). At (3 M.) the fork the left branch leads to
(3 M.) Lake Placid, the right to (5 31.) North Ella Post Office (p. 110).
"We may now return to Paul Smith's by railway (see p. 118).
b. From Port Kent to Ansable Chasm and Lake Placid.
Port Kent lies on the W. shore of Lake Champlain (see p. 126),
nearly opposite Burlington (p. 311 ; steamer), and within 8^2 t^rs.
by raUway of New York (comp. R. Ha; fare $7.62).
A short branch-railway (omn. from steamer to station 10 c. ;
included in price of through-tickets) runs in 20 min. from Port
Kent to (23 4 M.) Ausable Chasm (*Ausable Chasm Hotel, $ 4; Maple
Cottage, $ 2) and to (6 M.) Keeseville (Commercial, $ 2; p. 128).
The ** Ausable Chasm is, perhaps, the most wonderful piece of
rock-formation to the E. of the Rockies, and should not be omitted
by any traveller who comes within a reasonable distance of it. The
Ausable River ^ a large and rapid stream, here flows through a rocky
gorge only 20-40 ft. wide, between perpendicular walls of Potsdam
sandstone, 100-175 ft. high. Waterfalls and rapids add to the
• Mountains. WESTPORT. 8. Route. 109
attractions. A visit to tlie chasm has heen facilitated by paths and
bridges ; and the boat-ride throngh the rapids affords a novel and
exciting but perfectly safe experience. Numerous interesting fos-
sils (lingula antiqua, trilobites) have been found here.
The Entrance to the chasm (adm. $ IV2, including boat-ride and
carriage back to hotel; rebate of 50 c. if visitor gives up the boat-ride
and returns on foot from Table Rock) is a little to the N". of the * Trestle
Bridge, a few minutes from the Ausable Chasm Hotel. At the head of the
chasm (to the left) are the *E,ainbow or Birmingham Falls, 70 ft. high,
while near the point where we enter are the lower Horseshoe Falls.
Following the path to the right over the ledges (smooth as if made
artificially), we round the Elbow, beyond which, across the stream, rises
the Pulpit Rock (135 ft.). Below the Split Rock or Elephant's Head (1.) we cross
the stream. Farther on more or less appropriate names are attached to
the various phenomena, such as the DeviVs Oven (r.). Hell Gate, JacoVs
Ladder (r.), the Devils Punch-Bowl (1.), Jacob's Well (1.), Mystic Gorge (1.),
Shady Gorge (r.), the Long Gallery, Point of Rocks (1.), Hyde's Cave (r.),
Column Rocks (r.), and the Post Office (l- ; so-named for very obvious
reasons). We are now in the Upper Flume, at the lower end of which
we cross to the flat Table Rock, where the boat-ride begins and where
many visitors turn back. Here, to the right, tower the ''Cathedral Rocks
and the ^Sentinel, 100 ft. high. The boat at first passes through the
''Grand Flume, the rocky sides of which are 175ft. high, while at one
place the river is 60 ft. deep and only 12 ft. wide. Emerging from the
Flume, we pass through a quiet pool and enter the "Rapids, through
which we sweep swiftly to the landing-place at the foot of the chasm.
We may now either walk or drive back to the flV2 M.) hotel.
Stages no longer run from the Ausable Chasm to Lake Placid (p. 110),
but those who do not wish to retrace their steps may hire a carriage
for the picturesque but somewhat long drive (32 M.) via (13 M.) Ausable
Forks (p. 128), and (21 M.) Wilmington (p. 111).
c. From Westport to Elizabethtown , Keene Valley, and
Lake Placid.
Adirondack Lodge. Indian Pass.
Westport (* Westport Inn, overlooking the steamboat- wharf,
$ 4-5 5 Olenwood Inn, $ 2 5 The Westport, at the rail, station, not
to be confounded with the Westport Inn, $ 2, unpretending) is a
village of about 500 inhab., on the W. shore of Lake Champlain,
25 M. to the S. of Port Kent (p. 108) and 10 M. to the N. of Port
Henry (p. 125). It is the chief gateway to, perhaps, the finest part
of the Adirondacks. Kellogg's stages meet the trains and boats here
and carry passengers to (9 M.) Elizabethtown ($ 1). From Elizabeth-
town Agnew's stages, starting at 8 a.m., run to Keene Centre (12 M. •,
fare $ 1), Cascade Lakes (18 M. ; $ 2), and Lake Placid (28 M. ; $ 4).
At Keene Centre we connect with the stage fox Keene Valley (p. Ill ;
fare from Elizabethtown $ 1V2)- With a private carriage we may
reach Lake Placid from Westport (37 M.) in one day. Westport is
within 7 hrs. of New York by fast train (comp. R. 11a; fare $ 6.81).
The Road to Elizabethtown (9 M. ; stage at 8 a.m.) is pleasant,
but calls for no special remark. — Elizabethtown (600 ft. ; Deer's
Head Inn, $ 3-4 ; Windsor, $ 21/2"'^; Maplewood Inn, 1 M. to the N.,
open the whole year, $ 2-4), a vlUage with about 500 inhab. and a
1 10 Route S. LAKE PLACID. Adirondack
oonrt-lionse of 1785 (remodelled in 1884), is prettily situated on
the Bouquet River, in the weU-named Pleasant Valley.
Among fhe points of interest in the neighbourhood are Cobble Hill
(1790 ft.), just to the S.W. of the town, with golf-links ; Raven Hill (1970 ft.),
to the E.; and '^Hurricane Mi. (3685 ft.), 5 M. to the N.W. (cart-road; path
to the summit 2 M. more), a fine point of view. On the "W. aide of
Hurricane Mt. is the ' Hurricane Lodge ($ 3). — A road leads to the S., via
the (3 M.) Split Rock Falls, (10 M.) Euba Mills, and (23 M.) Schroon River
P. 0., to (32 M.) Schroon Lake (p. 119). — To the N. a road leads to (22 M.)
Keeseville (p. 108), via Pokamoonshina Mt. ('Poke o'Moonshine'; 2162 ;ft.)
and Augur Lake (549 ft.).
The *RoAD FEOM Elizabethtown toLako Placid (28 M. ; from
which the roads to Keene Yalley and Adirondack Lodge diverge)
passes through one of the most beautiful parts of the Adirondacks.
It leads to the W., passing between Hurricane Mt. (see above) on
the right and several lower hiUs on the left. 10 M. Keene Valley (see
p. Ill) opens to the left. Our road turns N. to (2 M.) Keene Centre
(857 ft. ; Hotel, D. 75 c). Beyond Keene the road turns sharply
to the left (S.E.) and ascends to the (4 M.) beautiful *Cascade Lakes
(2040 ft. ; well stocked with trout), with Pitch Off Mt. (3520 ft.)
rising so abruptly to the right as barely to leave room for our passage.
Long Pond Mt. (4090 ft.) rises equally sheer on the other side of the
lakes. The * Cascade Lake House (6 M. from Keene; $ 3, D. $ 1)
is a favourite resort of fishermen and others. Ahead of us we now
obtain a fine *View of the mountains enclosing Lake Placid. —
4 M. Ames's Mountain View House. Among the mountains seen to
the S. (left) are Mts. Marcy and Mclntyre (p. 114), the two loftiest
peaks in the state. At North Elba Post Office, about 1 M. farther
on, the road to (5 M.) Adirondack Lodge^-p. 114) diverges to the
left, and after 2 M. more the Riverside Drive (p. Ill) leads to the
right. [John Brown's Farm (p. Ill) lies about ^/o M. to the W. of
this part of the road.] Just beyond this point our road crosses the
Ausable River and diverges to the right from the main road, which
goes on to (10 M.) Saranac Lake Village (p. 108). — 3 M.Lake Placid.
*Lake Placid (1964 ft.), 4 M. long and 2 M. broad, is surround-
ed by finer and higher mountains than any other of the larger Adir-
ondack lakes, and numerous hotels and cottages have been built on
its banks. It contains three islands. Hawk, Moose (owned by the
Lake Placid Club), and Buck. At its S. end it is adjoined by Mirror
Lake, 1 M. long and 1/3 M. wide. Boating and fishing are carried
on on both lakes, and golf-links have been laid out. Mt. Whiteface
(p. Ill) is conspicuous at the N.E. end of Lake Placid, while
McKenzie Mt. (3190 ft.) rises to the W. The *View to the S. in-
cludes the peaks (named from left to right) of Gothics, Saddleback,
Basin, Marcy, Golden, and Mclntyre, with Indian Pass (p. 115) to
the right of the last. A small steamer plies on Lake Placid (round
trip, in 1^/4 hr., 50 c), and motor-launches may be hired.
Most of the hotels and other houses are clustered round the S. end of
Lake Placid and Mirror Lake. ''Stevens House (1965 ft. ; $ 4-6), on the ridge
Mountains. KEENE VALLEY. 8. Route. Ill
between the two lakes; Grand View Hotel ($ 4-5), to the S. of the Stevens
Ho. ; Lake Side Inn ($ 2V2), to the S.E., and Lake Placid Inn ($ 3), to the E.
of the Stevens Ho., with view of both lakes; Ruisseaumont Ho.., to the N. of
the last ($ 4-6); White Face Inn ($ 4), in a sequestered site on the S.W.
side of Lake Placid; Undercliff Camp ($ 15-30 per week), on the W. bank
of Lake Placid. Camp Asulykii (Mr. McCutcheon), near the White Face Inn,
is one of the finest in the Adirondacks.
The Lake Placid Club (open in winter also), the large park of which
occupies the S. and E. sides of Mirror Lake, -has no shooting or fishing
preserves, but provides its members with excellent facilities for golf,
boating, bathing, riding, driving, mountain-climbing, and other outdoor
sports. Its four large club-houses and other buildings accommodate 3000 per-
sons. The annual subscription is S 30. Visitors, on the introdaction of
a member, may stay here 14 days (from $ 31/2), and strangers are generally
allowed to lunch or dine on application at the office.
ExcuESioNS. The path to (3 M. ; ca. 2 hrs.) the top of *Mt. Whiteface
4870 ft.) begins at the IST. end of Lake Placid (guide desirable). The
*View includes the main Adirondack peaks (S.), Lake Champlain (E.), the
Saranac and Tupper Lakes (W.), and about 60 smaller sheets of water,
while on the If. it reaches to Canada and the St. Lawrence. The descent
may be made by bridle-path and cart-track to (6 M.) Wilmington (see below).
— McKenzie Mt. (3890 ft.) may be ascended in 2 hrs. (no path). — ='=John
Brown's Farm is in a lonely "spot, 3 M. from Lake Placid (comp. p. 110).
The sturdy old Abolitionist (comp. p. 351) had his home here from 1849
till his death (1859), and now lies buried in a small enclosure near the
house, with a huge boulder marking the spot. Walkers may cut ofi" 2 M.
of the route to Adirondack Lodge (p. 114) by descending to the 'Ausahle from
John Brown's, crossing the river by stepping-stones, and following a path
through the woods, which joins the road in 2 M. — The name oi "Riverside
Drive is given to a round of 10 M., following the Keene road for 3 M., then
descending the Ausable to (4 M.) the iron bridge on the road to Wilmington
(see below), and returning thence direct to (3 M.) Lake Placid.
The *EOAD THROUGH THE WILMINGTON IfOTCH TO AUSABLE FOEKS (26 M.)
diverges to the left (li.) from the road to Elizabethtown, at a point 3 M.
from Lake Placid (see p. 110). The ''Notch (10 BI.) is a defile on the S.E.
flank of Mt. Whiteface (see above), through which flows the W. branch of
the Ausable, scarcely leaving room for the road. The finest points are the
High Falls (adm. to best points of view 25 c.) and the Flume. Wilmington
(Bliss House, Hotel Olney, $2), 6 M. farther on, is a good starting-point for
an ascent of Whiteface (see above; saddle-horse $4, guide $3). At Ausalle
Forks (10 M. farther on), where the two branches of the Ausable unite,
we reach the railway (see p. 128).
Among the numerous other excursions made from Lake Placid are those
to Adirondack Lodge (10 M.; see p. 114) and Keene Valley (21 M.; see below).
*Keene Valley (approaclies, see p. 110), extending for 8 M.
to the S. from Keene Centre (p. 110), is, in its combination of tlie
gentler and the sterner beauties of scenery and its convenience
as a centre for all kinds of excursions, one of the most desirable
headquarters in the Adirondacks. It is watered by a branch of the
Ausahle, and is enclosed by two mountain-ranges, including Hop-
kins Peak, the Giant of the Valley, and Noon Mark on the E., and
Porter ML, Twin Mts., and the Wolfs Jaws on the W. The autumn
colouring of the trees is often rich beyond expression.
The valley is traversed by a good road, which passes (5 M.) Keene Valley
Village (1030 ft.). To the W. of the village is the Hotel Crawford ($ 21/2).
At the head of the valley are the Club House (1350 ft. ; formerly St. Hubert's
Inn) and Cottages of the Ausable Club, where travellers, unless introduced
by a member, may stay for one night only (S 4). The *View is superb.
Immediately facing the Ausable Club, to the S.E., rises Noon Mark, with the
112 Route 8. KEENE VALLEY. Adirondack
long ridge of the Giant and Hopkins Peak to the left and the conical
Mt. Colvin to the right. To the N. we look down the Keene Valley, and
to the S.W. is the road to the Ausable Lakes, between Mt. Colvin and
Mt. Resegonia. In front of the Ausable Club lie the St. Hubert Golf
Links. — On the farm of Glenmore^ at the N. end of the valley, not far
from Hurricane Lodge (p. HO), is the Summer School of Philosophy.
The following Excursions are described with the Ausable Club as centre,
but it will be easy to make the necessary rectification for other starting-
points in the valley. — Keene Valley has excellent Guides, a list of whom
may be obtained at the hotels. The regular fee is $3 a day for any excur-
sion; a graduated tariff is an obvious desideratum which has not yet
been adopted. — Many new trails have been constructed by the Adirondack
Trail Improvement Society.
^'^ Ausable Lakes, ca. 15 M. (there and back). This is the favourite ex-
cursion from Keene Valley and should on no account be omitted. The
lakes are included in the Adirondack Mountain Reserve, a tract of about
40 sq. M. to the S. of Keene Valley, bought and controlled by a com-
pany and occupied by the Ausable Club. Ordinary visitors are freely ad-
mitted to the roads, walks, and trails (toll 25 c. each), but to visit the
upper lake a special card (25 c. per day) must be obtained and a club-
guide and canoe engaged through the Superintendent. The entrance to
the Reserve is a little to the S.W. of the Ausable Club, A fine road, con-
structed by the company, leads hence to the (3^2 M.) *Lower Ausable Lake
(1961 ft. ; boat-house, with rfmts., boats to hire, etc.), a small sheet of
water, about 2 M. long, surrounded by beautifully wooded mountains de-
scending sheer to the water. To the left rises Indian Read (2535 ft. •, *View),
a knob of Mt. Colvin; to the right are the finely formed Gothics and Mt.
Resegonia or Saw Teeth. [From the boat-house we may make a trip by boat
(1-3 pers. 15 c, each pers. addit. 5 c.) to (10 min.) the landing for Rain-
bow Falls, a veil-fall of about 100 ft. (rainbow 12-2 p.m.).] From the
upper end of the lake a good trail leads to (I1/4 M.) the *Upper Ausable
Lake (1993 ft.), which is l^/i M. long. 'In the sweep of its wooded shores,
and the lovely contour of the lofty mountains that guard it, this lake is
probably the most charming in America' ( Warner). To the right (named from.
left to right) are Skylight, Haystack, Barilett Ridge, Basin, Saddleback, Gothics^
and Resegonia; to the left, Colvin and the Boreas Range. (Mt. Marcy is not
seen from either lake.) The lake is surrounded with camps belonging to
the club, where meals are usually cooked and eaten before returning.
Visitors may spend three days in camp (25 c. each per night). Before
returning we may row up the inlet of the lake as far as (1/2 hr.) the Elk
Lake Trail (see below) and then follow the general course of the stream
(avoiding paths to the left) to (20 min.) Panorama Bluff, which commands a
splendid 'View of the mountains (from left to right: Allen, Skylight, Marcy,
Haystack, Bartlett Ridge, Basin, Saddleback, Gothics, Resegonia). Route
to Mt. Marcy., see p. 114. — A trail beginning about 13/4 M. above the
Upper Ausable Lake, a little beyond the Marcy trail (p. 114), leads to the
E. over the Boreas Range to (51/2 M.) Elk Lake (1986 ft.), whence a road
leads S. to (5 M.) the road from Tahawus (p. 115) to Schroon River Post
Of.fice (p. 115; 5 M. to the E.).
Shokt Waxks. The Russell Falls are reached in 10 min. by a path
descending from the back (S.W. corner) of the Ausable Club. — The foot
of Roaring Brook Falls, descending for about 300 ft. over a cliff on the
W. side of the Giant, is about 3/4 m. to the E. of the club. We follow
the Port Henry road to (10 min.) the fork, turn to the left, cross the
bridge, and follow the Giant trail to the right (sign). The Roaring Brook
trail keeps straight on beyond the turnstile where the Giant trail (sign;
5 min.) ascends to the left. A few minutes farther on the Artist Brook
trail (sign) diverges to the right from the Roaring Brook trail. By
foil !^ wing the Port Henry road for I1/2 M. farther, we reach Chapel Pond
(1602 ft.; right). A steep path, a little farther on, to the left, ascends to
(20-30 min.) the Giant's Washbowl (2250 ft.), a solitary mountain-tarn at
the foot of a gigantic cliff, A trail (marked by 'blazes' on the trees)
Mountains. KEENE YALLEY. 8. Route. 113
leads hence to the W. to (1 M.) the top of Roaring Brook Falls (p. 112),
whence we regain the road by descending on the right side of the stream
(a round in all of 4-5 M., taking 2-3 hrs.). — With the last-mentioned
walk may be combined a visit (2 hrs. more) to Bound Fond and Bouquet
Falls (trails indistinct; guide desirable). — To reach the (3 M.) Cathedral
Rocks we follow the Ausable Lake road for 1/2 M. and then cross a rustic
bridge to the right. With this may be combined a visit to the small
Fyramid Falls (someone to point out the way desirable). — ArtisVs or
Chapel Brook., IV2 M. We proceed as in the Eoaring Brook Walk to
(ca. 25 min.) the finger-post mentioned at p. 112. The scenery somewhat
resembles the Torrent Walk at Dolgelley.
Ascents. Experts may dispense with guides in the first six. — *Noon
Mark (3552 ft. ; I3/4-2V2 hrs.). We diverge to the right from the Chapel
Pond road, just beyond Prof. Felix Adler's cottage, and follow the broad
path, which soon climbs along the left side of a ravine to (35-45 min.) a
bare ledge (view). The path then follows a gentle ridge and (in 25-35 min.)
begins to ascend steeply to (30-40 min.) the top. The 'View includes Keene
Valley and its bounding mountains, Mt. Dix, with its curious knob (S.),
N'ipple Top, and the Marcy group. — Mt. Colvin (4074 ft.; 2-3 hrs.). The
path ('Sebille Trail') leaves the Ausable Lakes road to the left, about
3/4 M. on this side of the lower lake, and ascends the left side of Indian
Head (p. 112; sign-boards). 35 min. Path to (5 min.) Wizard''s Washbowl,
to the left. 1/2 lir. (1.) Path to (6 min.) High Falls. 5 min. (1.) Trail to
Fairy Ladder Falls and Nipple Top (4685 ft.). 35 min. (r.) High white cliff,
a little beyond which are a large rock and a small spring (r.). 20 min.
Top (highest point reached by ladders). The *View to the N. includes
the Ausable Lakes and the highest peaks of the Adirondacks (named
from left to right : Skylight, Marcy, Haystack, Basin, Saddleback, Gothics,
with Saw Teeth in front, and Wolfs Jaws). — *Giant Mountain (4622 ft. ;
2V2-3V2 hrs.). The path (sign) beginning at the junction of the Keene
Valley village road with that coming from the Ausable Club, diverges to
the left from the track to Roaring Brook Falls at (V4 hr.) the turnstile
mentioned at p. 112. 15-20 min. Corduroy Bridge, beyond which we follow
'blazes' through the wood to the left and reach (3 min.) the brook. A
foot-worn trail, also indicated by blazes, ascends hence steadily for l-lV4hr.
(The right branch at the fork is of easier gradient.) Then follows V2-V* hr.'s
scramble over rocks to the end of the S. spur. Hence to the top 1/2 hr.
more. (A little to the N.E. of the Signal is a small pool of water.) The
*View includes Lake Champlain and the Green Mts. ; and Mt. Washington
(p. 331) is said to be visible in clear weather. — Hopkins Peak or Mt.
Hopkins (3175 ft.; 2V2-3 hrs.). The Mt. Hopkins trail begins about 1 M.
from the Ausable Club, just on this side of the iron bridge over the Ausable.
It then leads to the right along the right bank of the Ausabie, and in
10 min. comes out near a house, where we turn to the right, and follow
the Mossy Cascade path. In 5 min. more we cross the water-pipe and
reach the second Mossy Cascade sign. At (5 min.) the third Mossy Cas-
cade sign the Mt. Hopkins path ascends to the right. In 10-14 min.
we cross a brook and follow the 'blazed' trees which mark the trail. In
ca. 2 hrs. from the start our trail is joined on the left by that from the
site of the Tahawus House. In ^l\ hr. the path emerges on the bare ledges.
(It is well to mark this point in some way as a guide in returning.) 5 min.
Top. The *View includes Mt. Marcy, Mt.McIntyre, Whiteface, the Giant,
etc. — Mt. Baxter (2400 ft. ; IV2-21/2 hrs.). The path begins about 3/4 M. to
the W. of the cottage of 'Old Mountain Phelps,' which is 3/4 M. from the
Tahawus House. The ''Balcony, a bare ledge on the W. summit, com-
mands a splendid view of Keene Valley, and it is hardly worth while to
climb (20 min. more) to the top of the highest (middle) peak. — Gothics
(4740 ft.; 21/2-31/2 hrs.). The trail begins to the right of the Ausable Lake
road, 2 M. from the Ausable Club. It is not very clear at first, but, after
crossing (1/4 hr.) the Ausable, improves. 3 min. Cascade. IV2 hr. Ridge at
right angles to our course, which the trail skirts to the right. 1/2 1"".
Hollow, with swampy pool. The (15-20 min.) top commands a good near
114 Route 8. ADIRONDACK LODGE. Adirondack
-:View of Mt. Marcy, with Mt. Mclntyre to its right. Lake Placid and WMte-
face are seen in the distance CN".). Dix Mt., with its singular notch, is con-
spicuous to the S.E. — *iyit. Marcy or Taftaw^^s ('Cloud-splitter ; 5345 ft,;
two days; guide necessary), the highest of the Adirondacks. This is a
grand but somewhat fatiguing excursion, which should not be lightly un-
dertaken. The night is spent in Boulder Camp (see below), and the de-
scent may be made to Adirondack Lodge (see below). Campers on the Upper
Ausable Lake can make the trip in one day (ascent 4-5 hrs., descent
3-4 hrs.). The oldpathi (7M. long) begins at the iittlebay called 'CoJtf^fiowg'^'
in the inlet of Upper Ausable Lake, about IV2 M. beyond its S. end, and at
first crosses boggy ground. 25 min. Path diverging to the left (our path
straight on). ^Ji hr. Lookout Point, a high sandy bank. The path becomes
steeper and in 40 min. crosses Marcy Brook. 10 min. Path leading to the
right to (5 min.) Boulder Camp (see above). The main path becomes steep
and wet. 40 min. Col between Skylight (1. ; 4920 ft.) and Mt. Marcy , with
a spring of good water and the remains of Summit Camp. The trail crosses
a tract of low balsams to (25 min.) the open ledges, beyond which there
is no trail. The top is reached in Vt hr. more. The 'View embraces the
whole of the Adirondacks, with Lake Champlain and the Green Mts. to the E.
To the S.B., between us and the dark Haystack, lies the deep and narrow
Panther Gorge (3350 ft.). At our feet (S.W.) lies the Tear of the Clouds, a
small lake 4827 ft. above the sea, which is the highest source of the
Hudson (p. 82). The trail from the top to Adirondack Lodge is TV2 M. long
(p. 115). — Among other mountains that mav be ascended from Keene
Valley, with guides, are Dix Mi. (4842 ft. ; one long dav), Haystack (4918 ft. ;
one day). Nipple Top (46S5 ft. ; 8 hrs.), and Mt. Porter (4070 ft. ; 31/2-41/2 hrs.).
Schroon Lake (p. 119) is reached from Keene Valley by the Port Henry
road (see p. 112) to (8 M.) Huba Mills, and thence as at p. 110. — There is
no very direct or easy route connecting Keene Valley with the Long Lake
and Blv£ Mountain district. Perhaps the best route is by the trail over the
Boreas Range (p. 112) or by the Tahavms Trail (p. 115). Or we may go
via Saranac Lake as described at pp. 107, 103. Lastly, we may return by
train, via Westport, to Saratoga, and proceed thence as in R. 8e.
Adirondack Lodge (2160 ft,), a rustic hotel in the dense forest
to the N, of Mt. Mclntyre and 5 M, from the highroad, was burned
down in 1903, and at present there is practically no accommodation
for tourists here, [The excursions described below may, however, be
made by driving from Lake Placid to (10 M.) the site of the Lodge
(comp, p. 111).] In front of the lodge-site lies the pretty little
Heart Lake, reflecting the form of Mount Jo (see below), opposite
Mt. Mclntyre. No sign of human habitation is visible. Beyond the
lodge (to the S.) all roads cease, and the only means of communica-
tion are 'trails' through the virgin forest, sometimes followed hy the
'blazes' only (guides generally desirable). — Indian Pass, see p. 115.
Excursions. To Avalanche Lake, 5M. The trail leads to theS., through
the woods. This pretty little lake (2663 ft.) lies between Mt. Mclntyre and
Mt. Colden. The trail is continued along its "W. side to (IV2 M.) Lake
Golden (2764 ft.; log-camp). From Lake Colden a trail leads to the W,
to (7 M.) the Tahawus Club (p. 115), via (2 M.) Calamity Pond. — Mount Jo
(3000 ft.) is climbed in 1/2-^/4 hr. and affords a good view. — *Mt, Mclntyre
(5112 ft.), the highest but one of the Adirondacks, is ascended hence in 2-3 hrs,
(descent lV2-2hrs.; path steep, esp. towards the top; guide desirable).
The trail winds round the W. side of Mt. Wright (to our left). About half-
way up are the small Silver Cascade and Hermifs Cave. The 'View includes
Mt. Marcy (to the S.E.), Lake Colden (but not Avalanche Lake), Colden
+ There is now also another and somewhat saorter trail, beginning on
the W. side of Upp^^r Ausable Lake and joinins the main path above the
Bartlett Eidge.
Mountains. INDIAN PASS. 8. Route. 1 15
Mt., Saranac Lakes, the finely formed Gothics, the noble form of White-
face, the splendid precipice of "Wallface (see below), Mt. Seward, etc. Lake
Champlain is said to be visible in clear weather. — *Mt. Marcy (p. 114)
is climbed hence by a trail TV2 M. long, in 4-5 hrs. (descent 21/2-31/2 hrs.;
guide necessary). The i5rst half of the ascent is generally very muddy
and fatiguing. The trail passes the Crystal Falls and (near the summit)
the Tahawus Cabin. Those who mean to descend to Keene Valley telegraph
for a boat to meet them at the inlet of Upper Ausable Lake (comp.
p. 114), and should arrange to pass the night in Boulder Camp (p. 114).
*View, see p. 114. — To the Iroquois Ravine, see below. — To Scott's Fond,
see below. — A trail leads through the woods from Adirondack Lodge to
(5-6 M.) John Brown's Farm (p. 111). — The Soiiih Meadow Trail (easy to
follow) diverges to the right from the road to the highroad, 1 M. from
the Lodge, and leads to the E. via the South Meadows, and then to the N.
to the highroad, which it reaches about 2 M. to the W. of the Cascade
Lakes (p. 110). This route is uncomfortable in wet weather.
From Adieondack Lodge theough the Indian Pass to the
Tahawus Club, Lae:e Hfndeeson, and Tahawus, 23 M. (9-10 lirs. ;
guide necessary).
The trail begins at the W. end of Heart Lake and leads to the S.W.
On either side it is bordered by virgin forest. After about 3 M. the trail
through the ^Iroquois Ravine, a fine gorge on the slope of Mt. Mclntyre,
diverges to the left. In about 2 M. more (2 hrs. from Adirondack Lodge)
we reach Fish Camp, where meals are sometimes cooked by the guide. [The
trail to Scotfs Fond, 3 M. to the S.W., here diverges to the right.] The next
mile involves a good deal of rough clambering over rocks (no danger) and
leads us to (3/4 hr.) Summit Rock, in the centre' of *Indian Pass (2940 ft.),
a magnificent ravine between Mt. Mclntyre and Wallface. In front of us the
'View stretches over a sea of forest to (5 M.) Lake Henderson, 1100 ft.
below us, while to the right the majestic rocky waU of *Wallface (3890 ft.)
rises sheer to a height of 1300 ft. The headwaters of the Hudson, flowing
to the S., and the Ausable, flowing to the N., rise here so close to one
another that part of a pail of water emptied at the summit would find
its way to New York Harbour and part to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. [Those
who do not wish to go on by this route to the Blue Mt. country may
turn back here, as this view commands the entire pass and the trail
farther on is rough and neglected. Good walkers, however, may go on
to Lake Henderson and return to Adirondack Lodge by the Lake Golden
route (p. 114).] Our path then begins to descend rapidly, at first over rocks.
Farther on it is easier and more gradual. In 5 M. (2 hrs.) from Summit
Rock we reach Lake Henderson (1875 ft.), the E. bank of which we follow
to (2 M. ; 3/4 ii]./) the deserted hamlet of Adirondack or the Upper Iron
Works, with the house of the Tahawus Club (introduction necessary), which
holds 40 sq. M. of the surrounding country as a game and fish preserve.
Mt. Marcy^Cp. 114) may be ascended hence in 5-6 hrs. by a trail (12 M.)
leading via Calamity Fond to Lake Golden (p. 114) and then striking to the
right and passing the Tear of the Clouds (p. 114; guide necessary). To the
W. rises (4 M.) Mt. Santanoni (4645 ft.), and to the N.W. (8 M.) Mt. Seward
(4385 ft.). The Iron Works were established in 1826 by a Mr. Henderson,
who was killed by an accident at Calamity Pond (p. 114) in 1845, after which
they were abandoned. — From the Tahawus Club a fair road leads to the
S., passing Lake Sanford (1722 ft. ; 31/2 M. long), to (10 M.) Tahawus, where
there is another club-house of the Tahawus Club. Hence we may drive
to the right (W.) to (19 M.) the Sagamore, at Long Lake (p. 117), or to the
left (E.) to (19 M.) Schroon River F.O., 8 M. to the N. of Schroon Lake (p. 119).
d. From TTtica to Malone vi§. the Tupper and Sarauac Lakes.
167 M. St. Lawrence and Adirondack Railway (N. Y. C. E. R. system)
in 51/4-7 hrs. (fare $5', parlor-car $1). Through-carriages run from New
York to all points in the Adirondacks reached by this railway (to Tupper
116 Route 8. FDLTON LAKES. Adirondack
Lake Junction in 9 hrs., $7.70 ; to Saranac /»»in 10 hrs., §8.10; to Raqueite
Lake in 91/2 tirs., $ 7.40; to Malone in 11 hrs., $9.20; parlor-car or sleeper
§ 2). The line traverses the whole of the Adirondack Wilderness from S.
to N. and now forms, especially since the opening of the branch to Raquette
Lake (see below), the chief approach to the Adirondacks from New York.
TJtica (Rail. Restaurant), see p. 131. — The line runs towards
the N.W. 17 M. Trenton Falls, see p. 131. We cross the West
Canada Creek. 21 M. Remsen, see p. 131; 30 M. Forestport, for
Honnedaga Lake ; 35 M. White Lake (Stndor's Hotel, ^/^ M. from
the station, $2); 46 M. Otter Lake (Hotel, $2-3). At (43 M.)
McKeever, the station for Moose River and Woodhull Lake, we cross
the Moose River. — From (52 M.) Fulton Chain a branch-line runs
to (2 M.) Old Forge (Forge Ho., from $ 2), whence a small steamer
ascends the Fulton Lakes.
The Fulton Chain of Lakes (1700-1800 ft.), eight in mimber, connected
by streams, form a favourite resort of sportsmen and anglers. The steame
passes through the so-called First, Second, and Third Lakes (Bald Moun-
tain Ho., on Third Lake, $ 2V2-4) to the head of Fourth Lake (Eagle Bay
Hotel, $ 3-4; Cedar Isle Camp, $ 3; Rocky Point Inn, from $ 3; Arrow-
head, $ 2-4). At Eagle Bay the steamer connects with the Raquette Rail-
way (see below). — From the steamer terminus, at the Armwhead. a stage
lins runs to the foot of Sixth Lake, and steamers on Sixth and Seventh
iaies (Seventh Lake Ho., $2-3) make a convenient approach fo the camps
and hotels on the upper Takes ; or a delightful trip may be made, by
means of amal boat and carries, through Sixth, Seventh, and Eighth Lnkes
and the Brow'^n Trad Inlet to (3-4 hrs.) Raquette Lake (see below).
Beyond Fulton Chain our line followh the N. Moose River.
At (57 M.) Clearwater connection is made with the Raquette
Railway for Raquette Lake and Blue Mountain Lake (see below.)
Feom Cleaewateb, to Raqtjette Lake, I8Y4 M., railway in
50 min. (fare 95 c). This line crosses the N. branch of the Moose
River, passing (2 M.) Rondaxe, on the lake of that name. — 6 M.
Bald Mountain (see above), on Third Lake ; 7 M. Fairview. — At
(9 M.) Eagle Bay (hotels, see above), near the head of Fourth
Lake, connection is made with the steamers for all points on
the Fulton Lakes (see above). — From (12 M.) Tineas Road a private
carriage-road leads to Mohegan Lake, where Mr. J. P. Morgan has
a large and luxurious summer-camp, and to Sagamore Lake, the
summer-home of Mr. Alfred G. Vanderbilt. — I8V4 M. Raquette
Lake (Station Restaurant).
*Raqtiette Lake (1763 ft.), the most irregularly shaped of the
Adirondack lakes , with numerous promontories and bays, is about
10 M. long (5 M. in a direct line) and 1-272 M. wide. It is sur-
rounded by low hills, and the environing forests teem with game.
The following are the Lake Raquette hotels (i.e. camps, with cottage
or tents): Antlers {$ i). Hunter s Rest {$2'^/'i), on theW. bank; Sunset Camp,
on Wood's Point, near the Marion River Outlet ($ 21/2); Brightside, on
the point to the K. of The Antlers ($ 2i/2-3). — Am^ong the elaborate
Private Camps round Raquette Lake are those of Mrs. C. P. Huntington
(Pine Knot), Mrs. O. Carnegie, Mr. R. F. Collier, and Mrs. Frank Piatt.
Mountains. FORKED LAKE. 8. Route. H?
Fbom Raquette Lake to Blue Mountain Lake , 12 M.,
steamers and railway of the Baquette Lake Transportation Co. in
2V4 lirs. (fare to Marion Carry 50 c, to Blue Mountain Lake House
$1.25). The small steamer passes The Antlers Hotel and crosses
the lake to the Marion River, along which it proceeds to Marion
River Carry (Carry Inn, $ 21/2, ^- '^5c.), where we leave the boat
and take the railway across a short carry (1/2 M.) to TJtowana Lake.
Traversing this narrow lake (21/2 M- long) to its E. extremity, the
steamer threads a connecting stream and enters Eagle Lake. Here,
on the site of the 'Eagle's Nest', a farm-house on the N. hank, for-
merly the home of 'Ned Buntline', the author, the Eagle's Nes|
Golf Club links have been laid out, and a club-house hotel built.
The steamer again passes through a narrow outlet , enters Blue
Mountain Lake, and proceeds to the station at its farther end.
Blue Mountain Lake (1789 ft), 3 M. long and 2 M. wide, lies
at the base of Blue Mt., which rises to the N.E.
The hotels on the lake are the Blue Mt. Lake House ($ 3-4), at the E.
end, and the Blue Mt. House (225ft. above the lake; $2-21/2). — Blue
Mountain (3760 ft.) is ascended by a bridle-path in 2 hrs. — A road leads
N. from Blue Mt. Lake, through the woods, to (11 M.) Long Lake Village
(see below; stage in 3 hrs., fare $ I1/2).
From Blue Mountain Lake to (30 M.) North Creek, see p. 119.
Feom Raquette Lake to Long Lake, 12 M., by small boat,
with guide. From the N. end of Raquette Lake we cross a short
carry (Y2 M.) to Forked Lake (1750 ft.), a picturesque sheet of
water, with several private camps.
Those who are bound for the Tupper Lakes (p. 118) cross Forked Lake
(pron. 'Forked') to the N., pass through the outlet into (6 M.) Litile^Forked
Lake, and thence proceed, by boat (21/2 M.) and carries (51/2 M.), via Carey
Fond, Bottle Fond, and "Rock Fond, to (8 M.) Little Tupper Lake (p. 118).
"We turn to the right (E.) on Forked Lake and from its E. end
descend through the picturesque Raquette River to (8M.) Long Lake,
about 2 M. of the route being the 'carries' required to pass the
Buttermilk Falls and other unnavigable parts of the river.
Long Lake (1615 ft.), 14 M. long and V2-I M. wide, is pretty,
though tamer than many of the other lakes. To the right and left as
we enter it are Mt. Sabattis (2780 ft.) and the Owl's Head (2825 ft).
On the right (E.) bank, about 2 M. below the head, is the Deerland
Lodge ($3), a great hunting and fishing resort; and about 1 M. far-
ther on, on the same side, is Long Lake Village, near which, on the
lake, are the Sagamore House ($ 4) and Long Lake House ($ 2).
Nearly opposite Long Lake Village begins a boat and portage route
to Little Tupper Lake (p. 118) via Clear Fond, Little and Big Slim Fonds,
and Stony Fond. — Stage to Blue Mt. Lake, see above.
Farther on Long Lake expands. At its lower end (E. bank) is
the small Island House ($2). To the right rises Mt. Seward (p. 115).
From Long Lake to Upper Saranac Lake, see pp. 108, 107.
118 Route 8. TUPPER LAKES. Adirondack
Beyond Clearwater (p. 116) the train runs high np on the hillside,
overlooking various small lakes to the right. About 2 M. to the E.
of (63 M.) Big Moose lies Big Moose Lake (1800 ft. ; Glenmore
Hotel, Higby Camp, $ 2-3). We now reach the culminating point
of the line (2050 ft.). 81 M. Nehasane, on Lake Lila, in the private
park of Dr. Webb; 84 M. Bog Lake. From (88V2 M.) Long Lake
West (Wilderness Inn, $ 2V2) stages run to (5 M.) Little Tupper Lake
(see below) and (18 M.) Long Lake (p. 117). 93 M. Horseshoe^ on
Horseshoe Lake, the junction of a narrow-gauge railway used in the
transport 01 maple sugar. — 100 M. Childwold, the station for (6 M. ;
coach $ 1) the ^Rotel Childwold ($ 4-5), on Lake Massawepie (1535 ft).
Farther on we cross the Raquette River.
108 M. Tupper Lake Junction is 1^2 M. (stage) from Tupper
Lake Village [Altaimont, Iroquois, $2), the terminus of the New York
& Ottawa R. R. (see below), situated on Raquette Pond, 2 M. below
the foot of Tupper Lake (see below). In summer a steamer plies
hence to the head of the lake, calling at the various hotels. The
station is 9M. from Wawbeek Lodge (^. 107), on Upper SaranacLake
Tupper Lake (1555 ft.), 7 M. long and 3 M. wide, is surrounded by low
but wild hills and is mucli frequented by sportsmen. It contains several
islands. On tlie E. bank, near tlie N. end, are the Waukesha ($ 3) and Prince
Albert Hotels. — From the head of Tupper Lake we may proceed by boat
and portages to (41/4 M.) Round Pond., and cross this (2^/2 M.) bv boat and carry
to (1 M.) Little Tupper Lake. — Little Tupper Lake (1730 fib.) is 4 M. long
and 1 M. wide. — from Little Tupper Lake to Long Lake., see p. 117 ; to
Raquette Lake., see p. 117.
The line now passes several small lakes. — 122 M. Saranac
Inn Station, l^/^ M. from Saranac Inn (p. 107; omn. 50 c.). From
(1251/2 M.) Lake Clear (1 1/9 M. from Rice's Lake Clear Hotel, p. 107)
a branch-line runs to the right to (5 M.) Saranac Lake and (15 M.)
Lake Placid (see p. 106), while a private line runs to the left (N.)
to (5 M.) Paul Smith's (p. 106 ; fare 50 c).
A stage also meets the morning-train (ca. 11 a.m.) for a round trip
by road and lake (steamer) to Paul Smith's and back, allowing 2 hrs. at
Paul Smith's and regaining the railway in time for the afternoon-trains
(ca. 2 p.m.; inclusive fare § 2).
To the left Hes Lake Clear (p. 107). — 130 M. Paul Smith's is
4 M. from the St. Regis Lake House (see p. 107; stage). — To the
left, at (133 M.) Rainbow Lake Station (Rainbow Lake Inn, $ 21/2),
we see Rainbow Lake (3 M. long; trout). 136 M. Onchiota (p. 106).
142 M. Loon Lake Station is 31/2 M. from Loon Lake House (p. 106 ;
stage). The line now paraUels the Del. & Hudson R. R, (p. 106)
for a time and then skirts the Salmon River. 154 M. Mountain View
(hotel); 1561/2 M. OwVs Head.
167 M. Malone (^Howard, $ 2-3), an industrial vHlage with (1905)
6480 inhab., is a station on the Rutland R. R. from Alburgh and Rouse's
Point to Ogdensburg (see p. 132). Hence to Montreal, see p. 129.
The Tupper Lakes and the St. Regis Lake House may also be reached by
the 2few York d- Ottawa R. R., starting from Moira (p. 132), another station
on the Rutland R. R. line to Ogdensburg, 14 M. to the W. of Malone.
Mountains SCHROON LAKE. 8. Route. 119
e. From Saratoga to North Creek.
Schroon Lake.
58 M., Adirondack Beanch of the Delaware & Hddson R. R. in 2 hrs.
($1.74*, sleeping-cars from 'New York to Nortli Creek without change $ 2
fare from Saratoga to Bhie Mt. Lake $33/4).
Saratoga, see below. The train runs to the N., passing Woodlawn
Park (p. 121 ; r.). Near (17 M.) Corinth we reach (r.) the Hudson,
thie pretty upper valley of which we follow. At (22 M.) Eadley
we cross the Sacondaga (bridge 96 ft. high).
Hadley is the station for Luzerne {Wayside Inn, 3 31/2-6), a pleasant
summer-resort beyond the Hudson, on the pretty little Lake of Luzerne.
The wooded sugarloaf hill to the right, beyond Hadley, is known
as the Potash Kettle (1735 ft.). The valley contracts, and the hills
are prettily wooded, — 50 M. Riverside (883 ft.) is the starting-point
of the stage-coaches for (7M.) Schroon Lake and (12 M.) Brant Lake
(see below).
The Schroon Lake coaches run via (6 M.) Poitersville to the landing
at the lower end of the lake, whence a small steamer plies to the hotels
at its (9 M.) head (fare from Riverside $ 2), touching at the Watch Rock
Hotel (S 3V2), on the E. shore, the laylor House ($ 21/2-3), on the W. shore,
and other points. Schroon Lake (807 ft.), 10 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, is
surrounded by rugged hills and affords good fishing. Near its head lies the
village of Schroon Lake, with numerous hotels, the largest of which are
the Leland Home ($ 4-5), the Ondawa ($ 2), and the Windsor ($ 2). The
road (stages) to the N. runs hence via (4 M.) the beautiful Paradox Lake
(820 ft.) and Schroon River Post Office (p. 110) to (22 M.) Euha Mills (p. 110),
where it forks, one branch going to (6 jM.) Keene Valley (p. Ill), the other
to (10 M.) Elizahethtown (p. lOy). — Brant Lake (The Palisades, The Pebloe,
$ 2), to the S.E. of Schroon Lake, is smaller and also picturesque.
58 M. North Creek (1002 ft. ; Adirondack Hotel, $ 2-3 ; Straight
Ho., $ 2) is the terminus of the railway and the starting-point of
the coaches to Bine Mt. Lake.
Feom Nokth Ckeek to Blue Mountain Lake, 30 M., coach in 6V2 hrs.
(fare $2). This is not a very attractive drive, especially as the road is
bad and passes through an extensive 'burnt district". — To the left rises
Gore Mt. (3595 ft.). 5 M. If'orth River Hotel (D. 25-75 c). The road now
quits the Hudson and ascends rapidly. Mf. Marcy (p. 114) may be seen
in the distance to the right. We cross (17 M.) Indian River (poor inn).
18 M. Indian Lake Post Office (inn); 20 M. Cedar River (Hotel, $ 2). We
cross the watershed (1760 ft.) between the Hudson and the Raquette (p. 117).
— 29 M. Blue Mountain Lake (see p. 117).
9. Saratoga.
Railway Stations. Delaware and Hudson Station, Division St., near
the back of the U. S. Hotel, for New York, Albany, the Adirondaeks, etc. ;
Boston & Maine R. R. Station, Henry St., for Saratoga Lake, Boston, etc.
Hotels. United States Hotel. Broadway, cor. Division St., an enor-
mous structure 300 yds. long, with iOOO beds, $5; Gkand Union, occupying
the square between Broadway, Congress, Federal, and Washiugton Sts.,
and enclosing a large tree-shaded court, with 24(X3 ft. of street-front and
1500 heds, from $ 4 ; Congress Hall, Broadway, between Spring St. and
E. Congress St., with ICKX) beds, from $4; Windsok, Broadway, cor.
E. William St., a fashionable house, from $4; Kensington, with cottages,
Baedekbr's United States. 4th Edit. 8
120 Route 9. SARATOGA. Broadway.
$4; WoRDEN, Broadway, cor. Division St., $3, open all the year round;
Ameeican-Adelphi, next door to the U. S. Hotel, $3-3V2j Colcmbian, ? 3 5
ExcELsioE Spbing Hotel, Excelsior Park, $ 3; White Solphub Spkings
HuTEL ($2V2-3j; Huestis ($3), LiNwooD ($21/2-3), and many other small
h^^'els and boardinir-houses, at all prices.
Post Office, in the Arcade, opposite the U. S. Hotel.
Horse Races in July and Aug. at the Race Course, Union Avenue. —
Golf Tournament in August.
Saratoga Springs (277 ft.), a noted inland watering-place, is
situated on a level and monotonons platean near tlie E. edge of
the State of New York, 180 M. to tlie N. of the city of New York
and 12 M. to the W. of the Hudson. The famous saline mineral
springs are about 30 in number (see below and p. 121). The per-
manent population of the town is about 13,000, but in the height
of the season (July and Aug.) this is often more than quadrupled.
The name is supposed to be derived from Indian words meaning
'place of the swift water'. The springs were known to the Indians for
centuries, and Jacques Cartier heard of their virtues in 1535. The first
white man to use them is believed to have been Sir William Johnson
{p. 130), the adopted sachem of the Mohawks, who was brought hither
hy these Indians in 1767 and recovered his health by drinking the High
Rock Spring (p. 121). Hotels and boarding-houses began to be erected
early in the i9th century, and since then the progress of the place
has been very rapid, in spite of its want of fine scenery or commercial
advantages. The show of material wealth at Saratoga during July or Aug.
is not without effect, but it does not compete with either Newport (p. 248)
or Lenox (p. 340) in refinement of luxury. Saratoga is also a popular
place for 'conventions' of politicians, lawyers, bankers, veterans, etc. —
The battle of Saratoga (Oct., 1777), resulting in the surrender of Sir John
Burgoyne to the Americans, was fought some distance to the S. of the
Springs (see p. 122).
The Hotels of Saratoga aiFord accommodation for about 20,000 visitors.
The two at the head of the list are among the largest hotels in the world;
and a visit to their enormous ball-rooms, dining-rooms, and piazzas should
not be omitted. The dining-room of the Grand Union is 275 ft. long.
Most of the Springs lie in a shallow valley stretching to the N.E.
from Broadway (see below), and rise through a fault in the underlying
rock, the S. strata being tilted above those to the N. Some are chalybeate,
others contain iodine or sulphur, and all are strongly impregnated with
carbonic acid gas. Their temperature is usually 46-50° and most of them
are pleasant to drink. They are both tonic and cathartic in working, and
are considered efficacious in dyspepsia, liver complaints, calculus, rheu-
matism, etc. They should not be too freely indulged in without medical
advice. A charge of 5 c. is made at almost all the spring-houses.
Broadway, the principal street of Saratoga, containing the chief
hotels, the best shops , and the finest private residences , runs N.
and S. for a distance of 3 M. and is shaded by fine elms. Most of
the springs are in or near it. Proceeding to the right (S.) from
the U. S. Hotel we soon reach , to the left , Spring St., just to the
N. of Congress Hall (p. 119), with the Hathorn Spring, a saline
spring containing bicarbonate of lithia. To the S. of Congress Hall
is Congress Spring Park (adm. 5 0.), with a small deer-paddock.
Near the entrance are Congress Spring (saline, with magnesia;
resembling the Kissingen Rakoczy) and Columbian Spring (chaly-
beate), the former the most widely known of the Saratoga waters.
Saratoga Lake. SAKATOGA. 9. Route. 1^1
A band plays in the park thrioe daily, and Sunday and other
concerts are given. — Behind Congress Hall is the Hamilton Spring
(similar to the Columbian), and a little to the N., in Philadelphia
St., are the handsome Saratoga Baths (Turkish, Russian, and other
baths) and the Patterson Spring (cathartic). Continuing to follow
Broadway towards the S., we reach (left) th^- Convention Hall,
erected for the conventions mentioned at p. 120 (5000 seats). Ad-
jacent is the Pompeia (adm. 25 c; closed on Sun.), a reproduction
of the House of Pansa at Pompeii ( destroyed A. D. 79 j, erected by
Mr. Franklin W. Smith (romp. p. 617). Washington Spring rises
opposite. — Ballston Avenue, a little farther on, leads to the right,
passing an Indian Camp (baskets, etc., for sale), to (IV4 M.) Oeyser
Park and Lnke^ with the Oeyser or Spouting Spring (rising from a
depth of 132 ft.). The Saratoga Vichy, the Saratoga Kissingen (both
alkaline), the Champion Spouting Spring, the Carlsbad Spring (saline
and cathartic), the Adirondack, and the Lafayette Spring (cathartic)
are in the same neighbourhood.
Following North Broadway to the left (N.) from the U. S. Hotel,
we pass the Town Ha LI (right) and reach a part of the street lined with
handsome private residences. At (8/4 M. ) Third Street we turn to
the left and reac/h the entrance to Woodlawn Park (1200 acres).
The park is traversed by walks and drives in all direct ions. The
trimmer part near the houses, ornamented with dubious statuary, is less
attractive than the wilder part, to the N. Views are obtained of the
Catskills (S.), the Green Mts. (E.), and the foothills of the Adirondacks
(N.). — We may continue our walk through the park to (21/2 M.) Olen
Mitchell, with a Roman Catholic college, and return by Broadway.
Returning along Broadway, we turn to the left at Rock St.,
cross the railway, and reach a group of springs in Spring Avenue.
The High Rock Spring, the earliest known (comp. p. 120), bubbles
from a conical rock, 81/2 ft. high, formed by its deposits. Below is the
Sior Spring. To the S. are the Seltzer Spring, the Magnetic Spring (baths),
the Flat Rock or Imperial Spring (t'Chind the Town Hall), the Pavilion
Spring, and the Royal Spring (600 ft. deep). To the N. are the Empire Spring,
the Red Spring and Bath House (with a large proportion of iron ; useful for
affections of the skin), and the Saratoga ''A'' Spring.
Following Spring Avenue towards the N.E., we reach (3/4 M.) the
Excelsior Spring Hotel (p. 120; left), opposite which is the entrance
to the Excelsior Spring and Bottling Works, prettily situated in
Excelsior Park , near which is the Union Spring. — About V4 M. to
the E. are the White Sulphur Spring (hotel, p. 120; batbs) and
Eureka Spring. — "We may now return towards Broadway through
the patch of woodland to the S.W. of the Excelsior Spring, emerging
(10 min.) upon East Avenue. Here we turn to the left and then
follow Lake Avenue (right), past the Armoury, the Academy, and
the Boston ^ Maine Railroad Station, to (6 min.) Broadway. — The
Lincoln Spring, 1 M. from Monument Square, is highly effervescent.
Environs. The favourite short Drive from Saratoga is that to 'Sara-
toga Lake, 4 M. to the S.E. We follow Union Avenue, which leads to
the left from Broad'(fray at Congress Hall. On the left we pass another
122 Route 10. LAKE GEORGE,
Indian Gamp and on the right the Racecourse, one of the best tracks in
the United States, and Yaddo, the residence of Mr. Spencer Trask, to the
beautiful grounds of which visitors are admitted. The lake, on which small
steamers ply, is 7 M. long and is frequented for boating and fishing. Near
its ¥. end is the Lake House (formerly Moon's), a favourite resort for game
and fish dinners and for 'Saratoga Chips' (fried potatoes ^ sold in paper
packets or served with meals). An electric tramway (fare 10 c.) runs from
near the Grand Union Hotel to Saratoga Lake. Adjoining the lake is
Kaydeross Park. — Gridley^s Ponds, a fishing-preserve near the racecourse,
are much frequented by ladies and others (fee $ 1 per pound of trout
caught). — One of the most popular drives from Saratoga is that to (10 M.)
the top of Mt. McGregor (1200 ft.), which commands an exquisite *View,
and is surmounted by the cottage in which Gen. Ulysses Grant died in 18d5
(now State property and shown to the public). — Ballston Spa (7 M. ;
p. 127), Round Lake (12 M.), and Lake Luzerne (see p. 119; 20 M.) may be
reached by road or railway; and longer excursions may be made to the
Adirondacks (p. 104), Lake George (see below). Lake Ghamplain (p. 124), etc.
A branch of the B. & M. Railboad runs to (12 M.) Schuylerville (Hot.
Schuyler, $2), wYienc^i^t Battlefield of Saratoga {^q. 120), with its monument,
may be visited. Memorial tablets mark the chief points of the battle-
ground, and there is a collection of relics in the Schuyler Mansion Museum.
10. Lake George and Lake Ghamplain.
Comp. Maps, pp. lOi, 232.
*Lake George (323 ft), a picturesque sheet of water in the State
of New York, to the S.E. of the Adirondack Mts. (p. 104), is 33 M.
long from N. to S. and 3/4-3 M. wide. It is flanked on both sides
by wooded mountains , sometimes descending to the water in bold
crags , and is dotted with pretty islands (220 in all). It is some-
times called , perhaps with more zeal than discretion , the Como,
the Windermere, or the Loch Lomond of America. At the N. end
it discharges into Lake Champlain, 225 ft. below it, from which it
is separated by a ridge 4 M. wide.
Lake George has long been a favourite summer-resort, and there are
many hotels on its banks, while camp-life is also in high favour. It is
usually approached by the roate to Lake George Station described at p. 127;
and a steamer plies twice daily thence in 2^2-3 hrs. to Baldwin, at the
foot of the lake (fare $ 1.50; restaurant on board, meals § ^li-i.)- Fair
fishing for lake-trout, perch, and bass is obtained in the lake (boat with
fisherman $ 3 a day). — See S. R. Stoddard's 'Lake George and Lake
Champlain' (25 c.); and comp. Francis Parkmans 'Historic Handbook of
the Northern Tour\
Lake George was first seen by white men in 1642, when three
Frenchmen, including the Jesuit Jogues, were brought hither as captives
of the Iroquois. Father Jogues named it the Lac du Saint Sacrement;
the Indian name was Andiatarocte ('place where the lake closes'), and
Cooper tried in vain to attach to it the romantic title of Lake Horican
('silvery waters'). The present name was given to it in honour of
George 11. The position of Lake George on the highway between the
English colonies and Canada gave it a prominent role in the Anglo-French
struggles of the 17-18th cent., and more than one battle has been fought
on or near its waters (comp. pp. 123, 124). Its associations with the
romances of Cooper lend it an additional interest.
Lake George, formerly called Caldwell {Fort William Henry
Hotel, a large house with 800 beds, from $ 4^ Lake George Inn,
LAKE GEOEGE. 10. Route. 123
$ 2V2-3 ; Warden^ $ 2V2-3 ; Fernwood, Arlington, $ 2), the terminus
of the railway mentioned at p. 127, is a small yillage, beautifully
sitnated at the head (S. end) of Lake George, and much frequented
as a summer-resort (good boating and fishing). It lies at the E.
base oi Prospect Mt. (2020 ft; Prospect Mt. Ho.), which is ascended
by an inclined railway (disused at present). To the E. rises French
Mt. (1522 ft.).
The Fort William Henry Hotel stands near the site of the old Fort
William Henry, built by the English in 1755 to command the head of the
lake. Two years later it was captured by General Montcalm at the head
of 8000 men; and the massacre of 1500 helpless men, women, and children
by his Indian allies has left an indelible stain on the memory of that
gallant Frenchman (see the descriptions in Cooper''s 'Last of the Mohicans'"
and in Parkman). A few relies of the fort subsist. — About 1/2 M. to the
E. are the pictiiresque ruins of Fort George, dating from 1759. — It was
at this spot that the army of Gen. Abercrombie started in a fleet of boats
for its disastrous expedition against Fort Tieonderoga (1758; see Cooper's
'Satanstoe'), and a year later Lord Amherst set out hence with the army
that finally expelled the French from Lakes George and Champlain.
The Steamee down the lake leaves Lake George station after
touching at various hotel-landings and steers towards the N. On the
right bank are St. Marys Convent, the summer-retreat of the Paulist
Fathers of New York, and Joshua's Rock. We pass the small Tea
Island and Diamond Island and make our first stop at (4^/2 M.)
Assembly Point, projecting towards Long Island. On the opposite
(left) bank is the Antlers Hotel ($ 21/2).
6 M. Cleverdale (Horicon Lodge, $ 2) is the fljst of several stops
in Kattskill Bay at hotels frequented by anglers ($2-21/2)- — 9 M.
Westside (Marion Ho., $ 21/2-4:; Agawam), on the W. bank. — 12 M.
Victoria Lodge, at the foot of Pilot Knob (2080 ft.) on the E. bank.
To the right rises Buck Mt. (2334 ft.). — The steamer steers
between Dome /sZan<i (r.), in the widest part of the lake , andBeeZMse
Island (1.), connected by a bridge with the tiny Sloop Island.
141/2 M. (1.) Bolton (* Sagamore, situated on an island con-
nected with the mainland by a bridge, from $ 5 ; Algonquin, Lake
View Ho., $ 2-3), a large village, is a good centre for excursions.
Black Mt. (see below) stands out well to the E.N.E. Above Bolton
extends Ganouskie or Iforth West Bay, 5 M. long, formed by a tongue
of land jutting out southwardly into the middle of the lake.
17 M. (r.) Pearl Point House ($ 3), at the foot of Shelving Rock Mt.
(1135 ft.), descending abruptly into the lake.
Off the shore is Fourteen Mile Island, at the entrance to the
♦Narrows, between Tongue Mt., Three Mile Mt., and Five Mile Mt.
(2258 ft.) to the left, and Mt. Erebus (2533 ft.) and the sombre
Black Mt. (2665 ft. ; *View) to the right. The Narrows are crowded
with islands, through which the steamboat holds a devioas course.
19 M. (r.) Paradise Bay, a favourite goal of excursions.
23 M. Harbor Islands, where a body of 400 English were sur-
prised by the Indians in 1757 and nearly aU killed or captured. To
124 Route 10. LAKE CHAMPLAIN.
the left are Deer's Leap Mt. and Bloomer Mt. (1785 ft.) forming
the Twin Mts., as seen from the N.
24 M. (r.) Hulett's Landing (Hotel, $ 21/2), whence Black Mt. is
ascended from the N.
26 M. (1.) *Sabbatli Day Point (Hotel $ II/2), a fertUe cape at
the outlet of the Narrows, was the scene of a battle between the
Colonists and the Indians and French in 1756 and between the
Americans and the Indians in 1776, in both of which the first-
named won. Generals Abercrombie and Amherst (see p. 123) both
landed here. Good view up and down the lake.
27 M. (1.) Uncas (Hotel, $ 2-21/2). — '^8 M. (1.) Silver Bay
(Silver Bay Ho.).
32 M. (1.) Hague (Phoenix Hotel, $2-21/25 Hillside Ho., Rising
Ho., Trout Ho., $2), a favourite fishing-resort, backed by the ridge
of the Three Brothers. — The lake again contracts. To the right is
Anthony's Nose, rising abruptly from the water's edge.
37 M. a.^ Rogers Slide (1078 ft.) and ^Rogers Rock Hotel ($3-4).
38 M. (l.)Baldwin (Baldwin Ho., $ 2), where we leave the steamer
for the train. Lord Howe's Point, just to the N., was the landing-
place of the English army in 1758. Offshore lies Prisoners' Island,
where the French are said to have confined their captives.
From Baldwin to Fokt Ticonderoga, 5 M., railway in 1/4 hr.
(fare 75 c). This short railway, connecting Lake George with Lake
Champlain, descends rapidly (245 ft.) round the slope of Mt. Defiance
(p. 125). At the vHlage of Ticonderoga (Burleigh Ho., $ 2-21/2; Ex-
change Ho., $ 11/2-2), about halfway, the outlet of Lake George forms
a picturesque waterfall (left). — Fort Ticonderoga, see p. 125.
*Lake Champlain (96 ft), 118 M. in length, 1/4-I2 M. in width,
and 50-400 ft. deep, lies between New York on theW. and Vermont
on the E. and extends on the N. for a short way into Canada. Its
shore-line is indented by numerous bays and inlets, and there are
about fifty islands, one of which is 30 sq. M. in extent. The Ver-
mont shore is generally level and fertile, with the Green Mts. in the
background, while the W. shore is broken and diversified by the
foothills of the Adirondacks. A considerable navigation is carried
on on its waters, and it communicates with the Hudson by a canal
and with the St. Lawrence by the river Richelieu.
The name of the lake recalls Samuel de Champlain, Governor of
Canada, who discovered it in 1609. Its Indian names were Caniaderi
Quaranti ('gate of the land') and Fetoubouque ('water? that lie between').
Like Lake George, it was for a century and a half the scene of repeated
conflicts between the English and the French; and in 1759 it finally passed
into the possession of the former.
Steamboats (good restaurants on board) ply regularly from Fori
Ticonderoga (p. 125) to Platisburg (p. 128; 52/3 brs. ; fare $2.05), calling at
all important intermediate points; from Westport (p. 109) to Burlington
(p. 311), Plattshttrg, South and North Hero (p. 311), and St. Alban's Bay(v- 126;
6 hrs.); from Burlington to St. Alban's Bay (41/2 hrs.); and from Westport
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 10. Route. 125
to Vergennes (p. 311). — For the Eailways along tlie banks of the lake
and across the islands, see RR. 11, 42.
The S. extremity of Lake Champlaln, from Whitehall (p. 127}
to (24 M.) Fort Ticonderoga^ is so narrow as to resemble a river
rather than a lake, and is described at p. 127. Steamboat-navigation
begins at Fort Ticonderoga.
Fort Ticonderoga (Fort TL Hotel, near the old fort, $ 2) is a
railway - station and steamboat -landing on the "W. side of Lake
Champlaln, at the foot of Mt. Defiance (850 ft. ; *yiew). The village
of Ticonderoga (p. 124) lies 2 M. inland, while the ruins of Fort
Ticonderoga (see below) crown a high bluff IY2 M. to the N.
Fort Carillon, the first regular fortification here, was built by the
French in 1755. In 1758 General Abererombie (see p. 123) made an un-
successful effort to capture it, and had to retreat up Lake George, with
the loss of Lord Howe and 2000 men. The following year, however, the
French evacuated it on the approach of Lord Amherst (see p. 123), and
the English considerably strengthened and enlarged it, changing its name
to Fort Ticonderoga. In 1775 the fort was taken by Green Mountain
Boys led by Col. Ethan Allen of Vermont (comp. p. 311), who surprised
the unsuspecting commandant in his bed and called on him to surrender
'in the name of the Great Jehovah and the Continental Congress'. Gen.
Burgoyne. however, recaptured it in 1777 with the aid of a battery posted
on the top of Mt. Defiance. The fort was dismantled in 1780 and allowed to
fall into decay. It long formed a quarry for the buildings of the neighbour-
hood ; but its scanty remains, from which a fine view is obtained, are
now preserved as a national memorial.
At Fort Ticonderoga the lake is barely 1/2 M. wide, and it does
not widen materially tUl beyond Crown Point. The Steamer makes
its first stop at Larrahee's Point (right; Lake Ho., 2^2-372) ^^^ then
crosses the lake to (10 M.) the landing of Crown Point (left; Lake
Ho., $2), 1 M. to the E. of the village. A short railway runs to
(13 M.) Hammondville, connecting by stage with Schroon Lake
(p. 119). About 51/2 M. farther on we thread the narrows between
Chimney Point, on the right, and *Crown Point, on the left, the
latter surmounted by a lighthouse and the ramparts of the old fort.
TheYrtnch Fort Frederick, erected on this point in 1731, was abandoned
at the same time as Fort Ticonderoga (see above). The English constructed
a much larger and more formidable fortification, which, like Ft.Ticonderoga,
was taken by Ethan Allen in 1775 and by Burgoyne in 1777.
Beyond the narrows the lake widens to 2 M. Behind Crown
Point is Bulwagga Bay, the shore of which is, perhaps, the point
where Champlaln fought with the Iroquois in 1609.
18 M. (1.) Port Henry, a prettily situated village, whence a
railroad runs to (7 M.) Mineville, 19 M. from Schroon River Post
Office (p. 119). At Chimney Point, opposite Port Henry (steam-
ferry), is the Fort St. Frederic Inn ($ 2-3). A fine view of Dix Mt.
(p. 1141 and other Adirondack peaks is now obtained to the left.
29 M. (1.) Westport, in North West Bay, one of the approaches
to the Adirondacks (see p. 109). — Farther on *Split Rock Mt.
(1035 ft. ; lighthouse) rises to the left, while opposite is the mouth of
the Otter Creek.
• 43 M. (1.) Essex (Essex Inn, $ 2). The steamer soon enters the
126 Route 10. LAKE CHAMPLAIN.
widestpart of the lake and steers to the N.E., passing the Four Brothers
and Juniper Island (lighthouse). To the left lies Willsboro Point.
57 M. (r.) Burlington (steamei-landing 1/3 M. from railway-
station; see p. 311). Fine view of the city. — From Burlington the
steamer runs nearly straight across the lake to —
70 M. (1.) Port Kent {Trembleau Hall, %2^lr-, Lake Side Ho.,
$2-21/2; * Douglass, on Douglass Bay, 4 M,. to the S., $21/2), the
station for the Ausable Chasm (see p. 108). The AusaUe River
enters the lake 21/2 M. farther on.
76 M. (1.) Valcour, on the narrow channel between the mainland
and Valcour Island, where a hotly contested naval battle took place
between Arnold and Pringle in 1776, resulting in the destruction
of the American fleet.
Beyond this point the lake is divided into two branches by the
large islands of Grand Isle or South Hero (30 sq. M.) and North Hero
and the promontory of Alhurgh (railway-route over the islands, see
pp. 311, 3123. Our steamer follows the left (W.) arm. On (79 M.)
Bluff Point (1.), 3 M. beyond Valcour, stands the luxurious and
magnificently situated *Hotel Champlain (200 ft. ; from $ 5), com-
manding views of the Adirondacks, Lake Champlain, and the Green
Mts. Its grounds, 450 acres in extent, include a golf-course.
83 M. (1.) Plattsburg (p. 128), in Cumberland Bay, one of the
main gateways to the Adirondacks.
In 1814 Cumberland Bay was the scene of the Battle of Plattsburg,
in which Commodore Macdonough defeated the British fleet under Com-
modore Downie. At the same time Gen. Macomb, in command of the
land-forces, repelled Sir George Prevosfs attempt to capture Plattsburg.
The Isle St. Michel has been laid out as the Macdonough National Park.
Plattsburg is the terminus of the steamer route from Fort Ticon-
deroga, but the Westport steamer (comp p. 124) ascends to St.
Albans Bay (p. 315), touching at various landings on the islands.
The fishing at this end of the lake is exellent, and accommodation
may be had at various small hotels, farm-houses, and camps.
11. From New York to Montreal via Valley of the
Hudson.
Comp. also R. 47.
a. Via, Albany (or Troy), Saratoga, and Lake Champlain.
384 M. IN^Ew York Central & Hudson River Railroad to (143 M.)
Albany in 23/4-4 hrs. ; Delaware & Hudson Railroad thence to (241 M.)
Montreal in 71/4-83/4 hrs. (through - express in 103/4-12 hrs. ; through- fare
S 10.80, parlor-car $ 2, sleeper $ 2 ; best views to the left as far as Albany,
then to the right).
This is the shortest and most direct route from Xew York to Montreal,
Lake George, and Lake Champlain. Those who have not seen the Hudson
should go by Steamer to Albany (see p. 81); and they may also leave
the train for the steamer on Lakes George and Champlain.
From New York to (143 M.) Albany, see R. 4b. Beyond Albany
we follow the tracks of the Delaware and Hudson Railroad, which
GLENS FALLS. 11. Route. 127
traverses a very interesting district, skirting Lake George (p. 122),
Lake Champlain (p. 124), and the Adirondack Mts. (p. 104). — The
line passes the Rural Cemetery and reaches (150 M.) Watervliet,
with a large United States Arsenal, situated on the Hudson, opposite
Troy (p. 128). — 152 M. Cohoes {Harmony^ % 2-21/2), a prosperous
manufacturing city with (1905) 24,183 inhab. and th.e.'hMge Harmony
Cotton Mills (6650 looms, 2800 operatives), is situated at the *Falls
of the Mohawk River (75 ft. high, 900 ft. wide), which the train
crosses here by a long bridge (view of falls to the left). — At
(154 m.) Water ford Junction the Albany division unites with the main
line coming from (6 M.) Troy (p. 129). — At (159 M.) Mechanic-
ville (comp. p. 335) we turn to theN.W. (left) and quit the Hudson.
165 M. Round Lake (Wentworth, $ 21/2-3). — 175 M. Ballston Spa
(Lincoln, Eagle, Medberry, $ 2), with mineral springs, is the junction
of a line to Schenectady (p. 129) and Binghamton (p. 141).
180 M. Saratoga (Rail. Restaurant)^ see y. 119.
Beyond Saratoga the train runs to the N.E. and crosses the
Hudson at (197 M.) Fort Edward, where, however, all traces of the
fort, built in 1755, have disappeared. Passengers for the Lake George
steamer diverge here (see below).
Feom Fort Edward to Lake Geoege Station (Caldwell), 14 M., rail--
way in V*-! hr. The line ascends the Hudson, which here makes numerous
falls. — 5 M. Glens Falls (343 ft. ; Rockwell Ho., $ 21/2-31/2 ; Ruliff, $ 2), an
industrial city with (1905) 14,650 inhab., where the Hudson forms a pictur-
esque *Fall (50-60 ft.). The island below the fall is the scene of some
well-known incidents in Cooper's 'Last of the Mohicans'. — Beyond Glens
Falls the train passes Glen Lake (r.), reaches a height of 575 ft., and then
descends rapidly through a wooded defile, affording fine views of lake and
mountain. To the left, 2 M. from the village of Lake George, is the
Williams Rock, a boulder marking the spot where Col. Ephraim Williams
(founder of Williams College, p. 343) was killed and his 1200 men were
defeated hy the French and Indian army of Dieskau, which was in turn
defeated, also with the loss of its commander, by Sir Wm. Johnson
(Sept. 8th, 1755). Hard by, just to the left of the railway, is the Bloody
Pond, into which the dead bodies were thrown. — 14 M. Lake George Station
(331 ft.), see p. 122.
Beyond Fort Edward our train leaves the Hudson and descends
the valley of Wood Creek. 209 M. Fort Ann, the site of a fort of
1757, near which Gen. Putnam was defeated and captured by the
French and Indians in 1750. — 219 M. Whitehall {Hall Ho., $2)^
the junction of a line to Rutland (p. 310), is a lumbering village of
(1905) 4198 inhab., situated at the foot of Skene Mt. (525 ft.) and
at the S. extremity of Lake Champlain (p. 124).
The train crosses the South Bay and follows the "W. bank of
Lake Champlain, which is at first more like a river than a lake.
— 241 M. Fort Ticonderoga (see p. 125) is the junction of a line to
(5 M.) Baldwin (p. 124), on Lake George, and the starting-point of
the steamer on Lake Champlain to Plattsburg, etc. (seep. 124). —
The train threads a tunnel. 243 M. Addison Junction, for a line
to Leicester and Rutland (p. 310); 251 M. Crown Point (p. 125);
259 M. Port Henry (p. 125). The Adirondack Mts. now rise pro-
128 Route 11. TROT. From New York
minently to tlie left. From (270 M.) Westport (p. 109) coaches rnn
to Elizabethtown, Keene Valley^ and Lake Placid (see p. 109). The
train passes behind Split Rock Mt. (p. 125; right) and emerges
on the wider part of Lake Champlain (views). The rocks to the
left rise precipitously. — 284 M. Willsboro. — 298 M. Port Kent
(p. 126), the junction of a line to (2^/4 M.) Ausable Chasm (p. 108)
and (6 M.) Keeseville (p. 108). — 306 M. Hotel Champlain and
Bluff Point (see p. 126).
309 M. Plattsburg (120 ft; Fouquet Ho., from $ 3 ; Witherill, New
Cumberland, $ 2V2-3V2; *-Rai^. Restaurant, meals 75 c), a small town
with (1905) 10,184 inhab., is pleasantly situated on the W. shore of
Lake Champlain (comp. p. 126), at the mouth of the Saranac River.
It is a convenient starting-point for excursions on the lake, and it is
the junction of branch-railways to Ausable Forks and Saranac Lake
(see p. 106). It is 9^2 ^^^' from New York by express-train. The
U. S. Military Post at Plattsburg consists of 12 companies and is
one of the largest and most important in the country (dress parades,
guard-mounts, etc.). About 2 M. to the S., adjoining the grounds
of the Hotel Champlain (p. 126), is Cliff Haven, the headquarters
of the Roman Catholic Summer School of America, corresponding
in organization and importance to the Protestant gathering at Chau-
tauqua (p. 232). The attendance is very large. The reading circles
of several states have small hotels or club-houses of their own.
Feom Plattsburg to Ausable Foeks, 23 M., railway in ^ji-V-ji hr. (fare
72 c ). — The line runs to tlie S.W. through the valley of the Little Ausable.
From (23 M.) Ausahle Forks (American Ho., $2) coaches run to Wilmington
(p. Ill; $1) and Lake Placid (p. llO; § 21/2).
Our line now leaves Lake Champlain and traverses a somewhat
monotonous district. 319 M. West Chazy. — 334 M. Rouse s Point
(Windsor, $ 2V2-3), at the N. end of Lake Champlain, is the
frontier-station. We then descend along the left bank of the
Richelieu to (357 M.) St. Johns (p. 312). Hence to —
384 M. Montreal, see Baedeker's Canada.
b. Via. Troy, Rutland, and Burlington.
397 M. New Yoek Centeal & Hudson Riveb Raileoad to (149 M.)
Troy in 4-5 hrs. 5 Boston & Maine R. R. thence to (80 M.) White Creek in
IV3 hr. ; Rutland R. R. thence to (188 M.) St. John's in 6V2 hrs. ; Canadian
Pacific Railway thence to (30 M.) Montreal in V* ^^- (through- train§ in
121/2-13 hrs. ; fares as at p. 126). — This line is the direct route from New
York to Burlington (p. 311) and the Green Mts. (p. 315),
From New York to (142 M.) Rensselaer, see R. 4b.
149 M. Troy {Rensselaer, R. from $ 1 ; Fifth Avenue, Mansion
Ho., $2-2V2; Windsor, R. from $ 1) , a busy industrial city of
(1905) 76,910 inhab., at the head of the steam-navigation of the
Hudson. Its chief products are iron, Bessemer steel, railway rolling-
stock, cotton and woollen goods, collars, and shirts. The Rensselaer
Polytechnic Institute is a celebrated engineering school. The Music
Hall, Post Office, and Court House are among the most prominent
to Montreal. MANCHESTER. 11. Route. 129
buildings. The fine Public Library contains a statne of Miss Emma
Willard (^1787-1870), after whom the large Emma Willard Seminary
is named. The Soldiers' ^ Sailors' Monument is in Washington
Square. Troy is famous for its laundries.
Troy is an important railway-centre, lines diverging in all directions
(New York; Burlington and Mmtreal; Boston via the Hoosac Tunnel, etc.).
The main line of the Del. & Hudson R. R. berfus here and unites with the
Albany division at Waterford Junction (p. 127).
Our train turns to the right (N.E.) and runs over the B. ^ M.
B. B. to (179 M.) White Creek. 181 M. North Bennington^ the
junction for (5 M.) Bennington (Putnam, from $ 2^/2 ; Wallomsac,
1 M. from station, $ 272-3V2)- ^e then run towards the N., with
the Green Mts. at some distance to the right. 202 M. Manchester
(690 ft. ; Equinox Ho., $4), a summer-resort at the base of Mt.
Equinox (3816 ft.), the *View from which includes the Catskills,
the Berkshire Hills, Lake George, and Lake Champlain.
234 M. Butland (Rail. Restaurant), and thence to —
397 M. Montreal, see R. 42a.
c. Vid. Utica and the Adirondacks.
470 M. New Yoek Centkal & Hodson River Railroad in 121/2-15 hrs.
(fares as in R. lib). This route crosses the Adirondacks (comp. p. 115),
and forms the most convenient approach to many points in that district.
From New York to (238 M.) Utica, see R. 12a; from Utica to
(405 M.) Malone, see R. 8d. The train here crosses the Rutland
R. R. (from Ogdensburg to Rouse's Point and Alburgh; comp. p. 312)
and continues to run towards the N. Beyond (413 M.) Constable we
enter Canada. 419 M. Athelstan; 423 M. Huntingdon. At (435 M.)
Valleyfield we reach the St. Lawrence, along the S. bank of which
we now run to the right. 448 M. Beauharnois; 456 M. Chateaugay.
At (461 M.) Adirondack Junction we connect with the C. P. R.
470 M. Montreal, see Baedeker's Canada.
12. From New York to Buffalo and Niagara Falls.
a. Via. New York Central and Hudson River Eailroad.
Comp. Map, p. 232.
462 M. Railway to (440 M.) Buffalo in 83/4-141/2 hrs. (fare $ 9.25; sleeper
S2; parlor-car $2); to (462 M.; 450 M. by direct route, see p. 135) Niagara
Falls in 91/4-151/2 hrs. (fares the same). Seats to the left. The 'Empire State
Express', leaving :N'ew York at 8.30 a.m., runs at the rate of over 50 M. au
hour, including stops.
From New York to (143 M.) AZ6anj/, see pp. 86-91. The train now
turns to the left (W.) and leaves the Hudson. 146 M. West Albany.
160 M. Schenectady (245 ft. ; Edison, $ 2-4; Vendome, $ 2-2V2;
Crown, Mohawk, R. from $ 1), a prosperous industrial town of Dutch
foundation, situated on the right bank of the Mohawk, with various
manufactories and a trade in agricultural produce. Pop. (1905)
130 Route 12. LITTLE FALLS. From New York
58,387. It was the scene of two korribie massacres in the Colonial
wars. Union College (1795) stands to the E. of the city. To the left
we see the vast plant of the General Electric Co. (15,000 employees).
The American Locomotive Co. (8000 hands) turns ont some of the
largest and fastest locomotives in the world. — At Schenectady
we intersect the Del. & Hudson R. R. (N. to Saratoga, S. to Bing-
hamton; comp. p. 141).
The train now crosses the river and the Erie Canal (Union Col-
lege to the right) and ascends the smiling pastoral *7aZ^ei/ of the
Mohawk, formerly the stamping-ground of the Indian tribe of that
name (see below). Evidences of rustic comfort and fertility abound
on every side. The CatskiUs are visible in the distance to the S.,
and the outliers of the Adirondacks appear to the N. The Shakers
have several settlements in the lower vlley.
176 M. Amsterdam (280 ft.), an industrial city of (1905) 23,943
inhabitants. To the left we see the shrine at Auriesville (p. 139),
marking the spot where Father Jogues (p. 122) was killed in 1646
(view). 182 M. Tribes Hill^ an old meeting-place of the Indians. —
From (187 M.) Fonda a branch runs to (26 M.) Northville.
Johnstown (Kolaneka, $ 2-3), on this railway, 3 M. to the N., was the
residence of Sir William Johnson (d. 1774; comp. p. 120), one of the pioneers
of the valley, who acquired great influence with the Mohawks and was
made one of their sachems. He was created a baronet for his victory at
Lake George (see p. 127), and received a large grant of land here for his
subsequent services. He was the father of 100 children by his Indian and
white mistresses, one of whom was a sister of the famous Mohawk chief,
Joseph Brant. His strong stone mansion still stands.
The Mohawks were, perhaps, the best known of the Indian tribes which
formed the confederation known as the Five Nations, occupying the great
Lake District of New York. The other members of the league, named
from E. to W., were the Oneidas, Onondagas, Gayugas, and Senecas. The
Tuscaroras from Carolina were afterwards admitted to the league, which
then took the name of the Six Nations. The confederacy had about 15,000
members, and perhaps 10-12,000 still exist, the majority in Canada, the others
in reservations in New York, where they live as peaceable farmers.
From (198 M.) Palatine Bridge (305 ft.) coaches run to (14 M.)
Sharon Springs (p. 96). To the left, farther on, is seen the red-
brick Herkimer Mansion, with a monument to Nicholas Herkimer,
who died in 1777 of wounds received at Oriskany (p. 131.).
217 M. Little Falls (375 ft. ; Rockton, $ 2), a small manu-
facturing town with (1905) 11,120 inhab., romantically situated in a
narrow *Gorge cut by the Mohawk through a spur of the Adiron-
dacks. The river, the N. Y. C. and "West Shore railways, and the
Erie Canal can barely make their way through the pass side by
side. The Mohawk here descends 45 ft. in 1/2 M., forming a series
of pretty little falls, and the houses cling picturesquely to the steep
rocky sides of the defile. This gorge affords an excellent opportunity
of studying the crystalline rocks of the Laurentian formation, part
of the oldest dry land on the face of the globe. Richfield Springs
(p. 131) is 12 M. to the S. — Farther on we cross the Canada
Creek and reach (224 M.) Herkimer (Palmer Ho., Waverley. $ 2;
to Buffalo. UTICA. 12. Route. 131
6595 Inliab. in 1905), where connection is made with the Adiron-
dack Division, thongh the principal through - trains run via Utica
(comp. p. 115).
Beyond (226 M.) Ilion (400 ft.), a pretty village to the left, with
a small-arms factory, the train crosses the river and canal.
238 M. Utica (410 ft.; Butterfield, from $ 3; Baggs, $ 21/9-4,
Yates, $ 2-3 ; Rail. Restaurant), a prosperous town and headquarters
of the American cheese trade, with (1905) 62,935 Inhab., lies on
S. bank of the Mohawk, on the site of Fort Schuyler (1756). To the
W. is the State Lunatic Asylum. Genesee Street is a handsome thorough-
fare. A tablet commemorates the visit of Lafayette in 1825.
From Utica to Malone (Adirondacks), see R. 8d.
From Utica to Ogdensburg, 134 M., railway in 5-5i/2 hrs. (fare $ 4.21).
This line runs to tlie N., connecting Utica with Lake Ontario and the
St. Lawrence, and forming part of a favourite through - route from Xew
York to the Thousand Islands (p. 154). — The train crosses the Mohawk.
17 M. Trenton Falls Station (840ft. ; Hotel Trenton, $ 3; Trenton Falls Hotel,
$2) is about 1/2 M. from the *Trenton Falls, a scene of mingled gran-
deur and beauty, which is by no means so well or widely known as
it deserves. The West Canada or Kahnata ('amber-water') Greek, the Kauya-
hoora ('leaping water') of the Indians, here forms a highly picturesque
ravine, with abrupt rocky sides, through which, within 2 M., the water
descends 310 ft. in a charming series of five main falls and innumerable
rapids. The stratification of the limestone rocks is very clearly defined,
exposing the geological and the fossil organic remains to full view 5 and
an abundance of interesting fossils, including innumerable trllobites, have
been found. The name of the Trenton formation is taken from this place.
We descend (fee 25 c.) to the floor of the ravine by a staircase near the
Hotel Trenton and walk up past the singular ^Sherman Falls (35 ft.), the
*mgh Falls (80 ft.), the "Mill Dam Falls (15 ft.), the rocky amphitheatre
called the Alhambra, the curious formation named the Rocky Heart, and
the Prospect Falls (20 ft.). We may then return to the hotel (21/2 M.) by
a path along the top of the clilFs, atTording fine *Views of the chasm. — At
(21 M.) Remsen we part company with the line to Malone (see p. 116). Beyond
(35 M.) Boonville we ascend the valley of the Black River. 45 M. Lyoiis
Falls (845 ft. ; falls to the right, 70 ft. high) ; 58 M. Lowville (Eail. Restaurant).
— 74 M. Carthage (740 ft. ; Kenmore, $ 2) is the junction of lines E. to Benson
Mines and Newton Falls in the Adirondacks (near Cranberry Lake) and W. to
Watertown (p. 132) and (30 M.) Sacketfs Harbor (455 ft.; Eveleigh Ho.,
$2), on Lake Ontario. — At (87 M.) Philadelphia we cross the line from
Rome (p. 132) to Massena Springs (p. 155). 92 M. River gate, for the line to
(16 M.) Clayton (p. 154), on the St. Lawrence; 123 M. Morristown. —
134 M. Ogdensburg (250 ft.), see p. 154.
From Utica to Bwghamton, 95 M., Delaware, Lackawanna, & Western
R. R. in 3-4 hrs. (fare 3 2.85). — From (13 M.) Richfield Junction a branch-
line runs to (22 ]M.) Richfield Springs (see below; through-cars from New
York). — 95 M. Binghamton, see p. 141.
[Richfield Springs (1700 ft. ; Earlington, $4; fuller Ho., S3; Kendall-
wood, from $ 3), a group of hotels and cottages, 1 M. from the head of
the pretty little Candarago Lake (boating and fifhing), is much frequented
both for its picturesque scenery and for its sulphur springs. The latter,
17 in number, are especially efficacious in cutaneous disorders, and are
used both for drinking and bathing. The *Bath House includes a swimming-
basin. Among the favourite drives are those round Candarago Lake (12 M.),
to (5M.) Mt. Otsego, to (3M.) Allen's Lake,'&n6. to (15 M.) Cooperstown (p. 96).J
Beyond (244^/2 M.) Oriskany (420 ft.) an obelisk on a hill to
the left marks the battle-ground of Aug., 1777, when Gen. Her-
132 Route 12. SYRACUSE. From New York
kimer was defeated and slain by the Indians (see p. 130). — We
cross the river and the canal.
252 M. Rome [Stanwix Hall, $ 2-3 ; Arlington, $ 2), a town of
(1905) 16,560 inhab., with cheese-fai-tories and rolling-mills, oc-
cupies the site of tht- Revolutionary Fort Stanwix. It is an important
railway-junction, and the Erie Canal is joined here by the Black
Eiver Canal from Lyons Falls ; p. 131).
From Rome the Rome , Watertown, & Ogdensburg R. R. runs to the
N". to (73 M.) Watertown, (141 M.) Ogdensburg (p. 154), and (160 M.) Mas-
sena Springs (p. loo), connecting at (147 M.) Norwood with the Rutland R. R.
line to Moira (p. 118), MaLone (p. lis), and Rouses Point (p. 128). — Watertown
(Woodruf, from S 21/2- R. from $1: Hardimun, 5 2), with (19u5) 25,445
inhab., has manufactures of air-brakes, carriage-works, and paper-mills.
265 M. Oneida (Madison Ho., $ 11/2)-
The Oneida Community, a communistic society founded by J. H. Xoyes
in 1847, lies 3 M. from Oneida, but is now simply a business-corporation.
To the S. is the Oneida Indian Reservation. About 6 M. to the N.W. is
Oneida Lake (p. 231).
Beyond (270 M.) Canastota (425 ft.) we cross the Erie Canal.
276 M. Chittenango, at the entrance of the narrow valley through
which Cazenovia Lake drains into Lake Oneida. — 283 M. Minoa.
The train now enters Syracuse, passing along the main street,
without fence or barrier.
291 M. Syracuse (400 ft. ; The Tates, $4-5, R. from $ 1 ; Warner,
R. from $ 1 5 St. Cloud, Jefferion, $ 2-3 ; Rail. Restaurant), a thriving
Industrial 'city of (1905) 117,505 inhab., situated at the S. end of
Onondaga Lake (365 ft. ; 6 M. long, II/2 M. widel, owed the be-
ginning of its prosperity to the salt-springs in the marshes bordering
the lake, which have been exploited since 1650. A visit to the
evaporating houses, brine -conduits ('salt logs'), and pumping-
houses is interesting, though the production of salt (3,000, 000 bush-
els yearly) now forms a relatively unimportant item in the busy
industry of the city (value of manufactures in 1900, $ 31,948,000).
The Erie Canal runs through the town at present, but the new plans
(comp. p. 92) may ultimately change this.
Among the most noteworthy buildings are the Toiun HaZi, Wash-
ington St., in the Richardsonian style; the Post Office, in Fayette
St. , a pleasing relief to the stereotyped Mansard-roofed Govern-
ment buildings ; the Syracuse Savings Bank, on the Canal ; St. Paul's
Cathedral; Si. John's Cathedral (R. C.) ; the First Presbyterian Church;
the First Methodist Church ; the Dutch Reformed Church ; the May
Memorial Church (Unitarian) ; the Onondaga Bank Building ; the
Carnegie Free Library, containing the Museum of Fine Arts; the
huge University Block; three large Hospitals; and the Court House.
In the S.E. part of the town are the handsome buildings of Syra-
cuse University (3200 students, 215 professors, 6 faculties).
These include the John Grouse College of Fine Arts, the Lym^n Smith
College of Applied Science, the Hall of Physics, the Hall of Languages, the
Library (90,000 vol."., incl. Leopold von Ranke's historical collection), the
Holden Observatory (open to the public on the 2nd and 4th Tues. of each
to Buffalo. AUBURN. i2. Route. 133
month), the Lyman Hall of Natural History, the Bowne Hall of Ghemixtry, and
the enormous Oymnasium. The St"dium, of reinforced concrete, exceeds the
Colosseum in area and seats 2i),u00 people (with improvised seats, 40,'>(X)).
The hill on which the University stands commands a splendid *View o
the city, lake, and hills. A«1jaceat lies Uakwood Cemetery. The Medical
and Law Colleges of the University occupy buildings in the centre of the
city. The I'eacliers College is in Renwick Castle.
The handsumest resideu<:e street is James Stbeet, leading to the
N.E, from the centre of the town. — A Boulevard, 100 ft. wide,
has been constructed round Onondaga Lake.
'- Railways radiate from Syracuse to Oswego (p. 231), Richland ., Ithaca
(p. 145), etc. The Oswego Canal here joins the Erie Canal.
Between Syracuse and Rochester (p. 135) the N. Y. 0. & H. R,
R. R. has two routes : — the Direct Route (81 M.}, used by through
trains, and the Old Route (_103 M.) via Auburn, Geneva, and Canan-
daigua. Both are described below.
a. DiBECT Route from: Syeacuse to Rochester, As we leave
Syracuse, we have a good view to the right of Lake Onondaga and
the small town of Solvay (practically a part of Syracuse), with the
huge works of the Solvay Process Co., for the manufacture of soda
ash. The line runs through a pastoral district, repeatedly crossing
the Erie Canal and passing numerous small towns. Beyond (313 M.)
Weedsport we cross the Seneca River. At (349 M.) Palmyra (440 ft.)
Joseph Smith, the Mormon prophet, claimed to have found the
-golden plates of the Mormon Bible (p. 500). Large crops of pepper-
mint are raised here.
372 M. Rochester, see p. 135.
b. From Syracuse to Rochester via Canandaigua ('Auburn
Road'). We cross the Erie Canal and run to the S. of W. From
(308 M.) Skaneateles Junction (610 ft.) a branch-line runs to (5M.)
Skanedteles (five syllables), situated on Lake Skaneateles (860 ft.),
a pretty sheet of water, 15 M. long and V2-IV2 M. wide, traversed
by a small steamboat. At the head of the lake is the Glen Haven
Sanitarium. — 317 M. Auburn (715 ft. ; Osborn Ho., $ 2-3, very
fair; Avery, $ 2-21/2), a manufacturing city of (1905) 31,422 inhab.,
situated on the outlet of Owasco Lake (11 M. X 1 M.), which lies
3 M. to the S. The Auburn State Prison, with 1200 convicts, is well
known for its 'silent system' of discipline. W. H. Seward (1801-72),
Secretary of State during the Civil War, long lived here and is
buried in Fort Hill Cemetery, which Is supposed to occupy an
eminence raised by the Mound Builders (p. Ixi).
Fkom Aubuen to Feeeville, 33 M., Lehigh Valley R. R. in i^f^-P/t hr.
(fare 83 c). — The line skirts Lake Owasco (left ; see above). 11 M. Ensenore ;
14 M. Cascade; 18 M. Moravia; 28 M. Groion. — 33 M. Freeville, see p. 146.
From Auburn to Ithaca, see R. 13.
At (328 M.) Cayuga (RdM. Restaurant) the train crosses the lower
end of Cayuga Lake (see p. 145) by a bridge more than 1 M. long.
333 M. Seneca Falls, situated at the falls of Seneca River, the
outlet of Seneca Lake (p. 134); 33QM.. Waterloo.
134 Route 12. GENE Y A. From New York
343 M. Geneva (450 ft; The Nester, $ 21/2-3; Kirkwood Ho.,
CarroUtort; $2-21/2)5 a pleasant little city with (1905) 12,249 inhab.,
extensive nurseries for seeds and flowers, and the interesting Ex-
perimental Farm of the State of New York, lies at the N. end of
Seneca Lake (see below). Hobart College, founded in 1822, has an
excellent laboratory and other equipment and a library of 50,000^ols.
(President, Rev. Dr. L. C. Stewardson; 135 students). It now in-
cludes the William Smith College (1908 ), a co-ordinate school for
women, and the well-known William Smith Observatory. Geneva
is the junction of lines to Watkins, Ithaca, Lyons, etc.
*Seneca Lake (MO ft.), one of the most beautiful of tlie New York
lakes, is 38 M. long and 2-6 M. wide. It is surrounded by hills, is very
deep (nearly 700ft.), and never freezes. At a depth of 300 ft. the temperature
is constant at 39° Fahr. Only a narrow ridge divides it from Cayuga Lake
(p. 145). Steamers ply in summer thrice daily from Geneva to Watkitis (see
below), calling at intermediate points (fare 25 c.).
*"Watkins (Glen Park Hotel, near the entrance to the Glen, $ 2-3 ;
Jefferson, unpretending, § 2), a pleasant village of (1605) 2957 inhab. with
tree-shaded streets, is frequented by thousands of visitors to Watkins and
Havana Glens. It is also reached via RR. i2c, 12e. Above the village,
300 ft. above the lake, is The Olen Springs, a health-re?ort and hotel
known as the 'American Nauheim' (S 4-5; from $40 per week, incl. treat-
ment), with m^ineral springs and baths, beneficial in gout, diabetes, etc.
The entrance to *Watkins Glen (now a public park, open free) is
1/2 M. from the lake, to the right, just on this side of the bridge. The
glen, which may be described as a somewhat less imposing edition of
the Ausable Chasm (p. 108), is 2V2-3 M. long, and is traversed by paths,
steps, and bridges (stout shoes and waterproofs desirable). The points of
interest are indicated by sign-posts. Among the finest are the "Cathedral
(with its wonderfully smooth tloor, and rocky sides 300 ft. high). Glens
Alpha and Omega, Elfin Glen, and Pluto Falls. At the Suspension Bridge
we do not need to cross but remain on the same side of the ravine and
descend a flight of steps to the left. Farther on the path passes behind
the small Rainbow Falls, where a rainbow is generally visible about 4 p.m.
The head of the glen is spanned by a railway-bridge, 165 ft. high. Here
we cross the bridge and ascend the path to Watkins Station (rfmts.).
Opposite, on the other side of the track, is a gap in the fence, where
begins the short path back to the village along the top of the cliffs on
the left side of the glen. It leads through wood for 10-12 min. and then
emerges on a plateau commanding a *View of the lake and village.
We descend through the Glen Springs Park in 15-20 min. more.
Visitors to Watkins may also visit the Havana Glen, about 3 M. to
the S.E., though its paths and bridges have been so neglected as to be
now nearly impassable. This glen is about ii/4 M. long, and its most
striking feature is the wonderful rectangularity of the rocks in its
lower part. This is specially evident in the square *Council Chamber., no
far from the entrance. The prettiest falls are, perhaps, those descending
from the Council Chamber; farther up are the Bridal Veil, JacoVs Ladder.,
and the Curtain Falh. — There are other pretty glens in the neight
bourhood.
Beyond Geneva the line makes a wide sweep to the N. 355 M.
Clifton Springs (620 ft. ; Sanitarium , from $ 3), with sulphurous
springs. — 365 M. Canandaigua (740 ft. : Seneca Point Hotel,
Canandaigua Ho., $ 2-5), a village with (1905) 7332 inhab., at the
N. end of Canandaigua Lake (670 ft. ; 15 M. long and 1 M. wide).
Steamers ply on the lake to various points of summer-resort.
to Buffalo. ROCHESTER. 12. Route. 135
Feom Canandaigda to Watkins, 47 M., Northern Central Railway in
IV2 lir. — This line runs towards the S.E. 24 M. Penn Tan (Benham Ho.,
$ 2-2V2; Knapp Ho., $ 2), at the head of *Lake Keuka, a charming little
sheet of water, 710 ft. above the sea and 265 ft. ahore Seneca Lake (p. 134),
from which it is separated by a narrow ridge. It is 18 M. long and V2-IV2 M.
wide. Steamers (fare 25 c.) ply from Penn Yan to Eammondsport, at the head
of the lake. Much wine is raised on its banks. — 47 M. WatUns (p. 134).
Beyond this point the railway goes on to Elmira (p. 142), Philadelphia,
"Washington, and Baltimore.
Canandaigua is also the junction of a line to Buffalo via Batavia
(see below).
The stations hence to (394 M.) Rochester are unimportant.
Eocliester (510 ft.; Seneca^ R. from $ IY2; Rochester^ R. from
$11/2; Powers Hotel, R. from $1; Osburn Ho., $ 2-85 Whitcomb;
Rail. Restaurant), a city of (1905) 181,665 inhab., situated on
"both sides of the Genesee, 7 M. from Lake Ontario, makes flonr,
beer, clothing, boots, and other articles to the annnal value of
$85,000,000. Near the middle of the city the river forms a perpen-
dicular Fall, 90-100 ft. high (best seen from the Piatt St. Bridge,
reached from the Powers Hotel by following Main St. to the left,
State St. to the left, and Piatt St. to the right). The river forms
two other falls to the N. within the city-limits, the Middle Fall, 26 ft.
high, and the Lower Fall, 96 ft. high (total horse-power 50,000). —
Main St. crosses the river by a concealed bridge, lined on both sides
with houses in the style of old London Bridge. Near this the Erie
Canal is conducted over the river by an * Aqueduct, 850 ft. long and
45 ft. wide, a fine piece of engineering. — A good *View of the city
is obtained from the tower (204 ft.) of the Powers Building (10 c).
— The University of Rochester (370 students), in the E. part of the
city, has good geological collections. — St. Bernard's Seminary
(R. C.) has 200 pupils. — The City Hall, near West Main St., has
a tower 175 ft. high. — The Masonic Temple is unusually large
and complete. Mt. Hope Cemetery is pretty, and the Public Parks
are well laid out. The statue of Frederick Douglass (1817-95), the
coloured statesman, is by S. "W. Edwards (1898). — Interesting visits
may be paid to the large Flour Mills and Breweries (lager beer),
lining the river, to the extensive Nurseries in the outskirts of the
city, and to the headquarters of the Eastman Kodak Co. Rochester
is a great centre of Spiritualists and supporters of Woman's Rights.
Railways radiate from Rochester to Elmira and New York, Pittsburg,
Niagara Falls, Charlotte (see p. 231), Ontario Beach (Hot. Ontario, $ 2), on
Lake Ontario, etc. — A large ferry-steamer runs from Rochester across
Lake Ontario to Gobourg, Ontario (see Baedeker''s Canada).
The direct Railway to Niagara Falls (78 M.) runs via Lockport (canal-
locks with lift of 66 ft.) to Suspension Bridge (p. 144) and the Falls (p. 146).
The train crosses the Genesee above the falls (not seen from the
line). —404 M. Batavia (Richmond Hotel), with (1905) 10,080 inhab.
and the State Blind Asylum, is the junction of various railways. The
old Holland Purchase Land Office contains a collection of relics of
the pioneer days of Western New York. To the right is seen the
Baedekek's United States. 4th Edit. 9
136 Boute 12. BUFFALO. From New York
monnment to William Morgan, believed to liave been murdered by
tbe Free Masons in 1826 to prevent tlie publication of Ms book on
tbe secrets of tbe craft. — 436 M. East Buffalo.
440 M. Buffalo. — Railway Stations. Union or Central Depot (PI. D, 7),
Exchange St., for trains of the N. T. C, West Shore, Michigan Central,
Lake Shore, Penna., Grand Trunk, Buffalo & Susquehanna, and Buffalo,
Rochester, and Pittsburg E,.R.; Erie Depot (PI. D, 7), Exchange St., a little
to the E., also used by the Wabash, and N. Y. C. & St. L. R.R. ; Delaware
& Lackawaima Depot (PI. C, 8), at the foot ofMainSt. 5 Lehigh Valley Depot
(PI. C, 7, 8), cor, of Washington and Scott Sts.
Hotels. *HoTEL Iroquois (PI. a; C, 7), a well-built and finely equipped
fire-proof structure, at the corner of Main and Eagle Sts., R. from § IV2;
Hotel Statlee (PI. b; C, 7), cor. Washington and Swan Sts., R. with
bath from $ IV2; Hotel Toukaine (PI. d; C, 6), cor. Delaware Ave. and
Johnson Park, R. from $ 11/2; Lenox Hotel (PL k-, C, D, 5), Ivorth St.,
near Delaware Ave., with roof-garden, R. from $ IV2; Lafatette Hotel
(PL h^ D, 7), at the corner of Clinton and Washington Sts., R. from $ IV2;
SiAGAEA (PL i', B, 5), Porter Ave., pleasantly situated (view), from $ 3;
Genesee (PL c; C, D, 6), at the corner of Genesee and Main Sts., R. from
§ 1; Beoezel Ho. (PL f; D, 7), close to Union Depot, from $3; Mansion
House (PL g; C, 7), $2-3; Stafford (PL e; C, 7), $ 2-21/2.
Restaurants. At most of the hotels; Statler, Ellicott Sq. Building,
Swan St. ; Fleischmann' s Ratskeller, Main St., cor. of N. Division St. ; Eof-
brau, Pearl St., near Eagle St.; German-American Restaurant, cor, of Main
& High Sts.; GUlds' Dairy Co., 329 Main St. and in Seneca St.
Steamboats ply regularly to the chief points on Lake Erie and the
other Great Lakes (comp. p. 364).
Cabs. For i pers. for 1 M. 50c., each pers, addit. 25c., 2 M. 50c.
each, above 2 M. $1 each; per hour 1-4 pers., $11/2; one article of luggage
free, each addit. article 5-10 c. — Street Cars (Tramways), propelled by
electric power generated by Niagara Falls (comp. pp. 148, 149), traverse all
the principal streets (5 c.) and also run to Tonawanda (p. 139), Niagara Falls
(comp. p. 139), etc. — A Belt Railway Line, starting at the Union Depot,
makes the circuit of the city (15 M.) in 3/4 hr. (fare 5e.).
Theatres. Star Theatre (PL C, 7), cor. Pearl and Mohawk Sts. (50 c.
to $ 11/2); Teck Theatre (PI. D, 6), Main St. (25 c. to SI); Lyric (PI. D, 7),
Washington St., near Broadway (15-75 c); /S/^eo's Theatre (PL C, 7), for
vaudeville (25-75 c.) ; Garden Theatre, near City Hall.
Post Office (PL D, 7), Swan St.
Buffalo, tbe second in size of tlie cities of New York State, witli
(1905) 376,585 inbab., lies at the E. end of Lake Erie, at tbe moutb
of the Buffalo Creek and bead of tbe Niagara River, 20 M. above tbe
Niagara Falls. It is well built, and many of its wide streets are
sbaded witb trees and smootbly paved witb aspbalt.
The name of the city is supposed to be derived from the herds of
Duffalo which frequented the creek here entering the lake. The first
dwelling for a white man was erected here in 1791, but it was not till
after the construction of the Erie Canal in 1825 that the place increased
with any great rapidity. Between 1890 and 1900 it added nearly 100,000 souls
to its population. The commerce of Buffalo is very great, as its situation
makes it an emporium for much of the traffic with the great North- West.
Its lake-harbour is safe and capacious, and it has several miles of water-
front. Lumber (300 million feet annually), grain (180 million bushels), coal
(15 million tons), and live-stock are among the chief articles of trade. The
grain elevators have an aggregate capacity of 24 million bushels. The
industrial products of Butialo include beer, spirits, flour, oil, railway
cars, iron, steel, elevators (Otis Co.), metal goods, soap, and starch. They
employ 58,000 hands, while their produce in 1906 was valued at $ 197,846,740.
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to Niagara Falls. BUFFALO. 12. Boute. 137
The population includes a large proportion of Germans and many Poles
and Italians.
Lake Erie (570 ft.), the second (counting from the E.) of the chain
of Great Lakes between the United States and Canada, is 250 M. long and
60 M. wide. It is by far the shallowest of all, having an average depth of
only 84 ft. It connects with Lake Huron by the Detroit and St. Glair
Rivers (see p. 365) and pours its waters into Lake Ontario by the Niagara
River (see p. 147). It is the scene of a very busy navigation, about 9000
vessels, of an aggregate burden of 14,000,000 tons, annually entering and
clearing the port of Buffalo alone. The first vessel to navigate the lake
was built on the Niagara River by La SaUe in 1679, and the first steam-
boat was launched in 1818.
To reacli Main St. (PI. C-F, 1-8) from the Union Depot (PI.
D, 7), we proceed to the left (W.). Following Main St. to the right
(N.), we pass the Chamber of Commerce (PI. C, 7), at the corner of
Seneca St., and the huge Ellicott Square Building (PI. G, 7; cor. of
Swan St.), with 16 elevators and housing a business- community of
4-5000 souls. On the left are *St. PauVs Churchy one of the most
successful Gothic (E. E.) churches in America, and the Erie Co.
Savings Bank. A little back from the church, fronting on Franklin
St., is the substantial City Hall, with a tower 200 ft. high (view).
[Close by, at the S. W. corner of Pearl and Church Sts., is the
^Prudential Building, by Louis Sullivan, a fine example of simple
yet dignified commercial architecture, with terracotta ornament-
ation.] To the right, at the comer of Eagle St., is the imposing
Iroquois Hotel (p. 136 ; view from roof). A little farther on, the
street crosses Lafayette Square (PL C, D, 7), with a War Monu-
ment. Here, to the right, at the corner of Broadway, stands the
handsome *Public Library (PI. D, 7), which contains 320,000 vols,
and various collections.
The spacious "Reading Room on the groundfloor contains a very inter-
esting collection of autograph MSS. (Emerson, Whitman, Lowell, Howells,
C. E. Craddock, etc.). — The basement and upper floors are occupied by
the museum of the Society of Natural Sciences.
Main St. now intersects the wide Genesee Street (PI. C-F, 5-7).
To the left, 1/2 M. farther on, at the corners of Edward St., are
the large Teck Theatre (p. 136) and the R. C. Church of St. Louis
(PI. D, 6).
Just to the W. of this point, at the S.E. corner of Edward St. and
Franklin St., is the Orosvenor Library (PI. D, 6), a free reference library
with about 70,000 vols, (open 6-9).
One of the finest residence- streets in Buffalo is *Delaware
Avenue (PI. C, D, 1-7), which runs to the "W. of and parallel with
Main St. It begins at Church Street (PI. C, 7) and soon crosses
Niagara Square (PI. C, 7), which is adorned with a monument to
President McKinley (by Carrere & Hastings), who was assassinate
at Buffalo in 1901. At the corner of Niagara Sq. and DelawareAve.
is the house of President Millard Fillmore (1800-1874), now a hotel.
Among the other buildings in this street are the Municipal Building,
above Church St. ; the Methodist Episcopal Church (PI. C, 6), cor. of
Tupper St. ; * Trinity Church (PI. C, 6) and the Saturn Club, between
9*
138 Boute 12. BUFFALO. From New York
Tupper and Edward Sts. ; the University Club^ cor. of Allen St. ; the
Twentieth Century Club (for women) ; and the Synagogue (PI. D, 5),
between Allen and North Sts.
Delaware Ave. leads to (272 M.) Forest Lawn Cemetery (see below),
but in the meantime we may tnm to the left at(lV4M.) North Street
(PI. C-E, 5), another handsome residence-street, with the large Lenox
Hotel (p. 136) near the corner, and follow it to (V2 M.) the Circle
(PI. C, 5), containing the First Presbyterian Church. Beyond the
Circle we foUow Porter Avenue, which leads to (^'4 M.) the small
Prospect Park (PI. B, 5 ; with the 74th Regiment Armoury and the
Niagara Hotel, p. 136) and (V4M.) the *Front (PI. A, B, 5), a bold
bluff on the Niagara River, affording a fine view of Lake Erie, the
river, and the Canadian shore (1 M. distant). Just to the N. is Fort
Porter, a small military station (band and dress parade at sunset).
From the Front Niagara Street leads along the river, past the Waterworks
(PI. A, 4; with a 'crib" in the river) and Fort Erie Ferry (PI. A, 4), to (2 M.)
the International Bridge (PI. A, 2), 3/4 M. long, which crosses the river
with the aid of Squaw Island.
From the Front we now follow Massachusetts Street (PI. B, C, 4),
Richmond Avenue (PI. C, 4, 3), and Bidwell Parkway (PI. C, 3) to
Soldiers' Place (PI. C, D, 3). From this point Lincoln Parkway
leads to the N. to the ^Albright Art Gallery (PL C, 2), a hand-
some white marble structure in a fine Greek style, by Green & Wicks
(1905 ; portico a reproduction of the N. porch of the Erechtheum).
It contains the collections of the Buffalo Fine Arts Academy, in-
cluding pictures, engravings, etchings (by Sir Seymour Haden, etc.),
sculptures, casts, and other works of art (adm. 25 c, free on Sat. &
Sun. ; Director, Dr. C. M. Kurtz). The Art School has 300 pupils.
The Albright GaUery stands in the *Park (Pl.D, E, 1,2), which
is prettily laid out and also contains a boating lake, the Park Club,
and the building of the Buffalo Historical Society (PI. C, 2),
in front of which are two fine Italian bronze candelabra of the
16th century. Inside are a library of 25,000 vols, and the interesting
'Old Buffalo' room. — To the W. of the Park are the large grounds
and buildings of the State Insane Asylum (PI. C, 2; open on Mon.,
"Wed., & Frid., 2-5 p.m.). — Adjoining the Park on the S. and E. is
*Forest Lawn Cemetery (PL D, E, 2, 3), with the grave of President
Fillmore (see p. 137). Near the S.W. entrance are a statue of the
Indian' chief Red Jacket and a Crematorium (PL D, 3).
On the S.E. Forest Lawn Cemetery is bounded by Main St.,
whence we may return to our hotel by tramway. Or we may foUow
it out for about 1/2 M. to the Speedway (PL E, F, 2-3). This, con-
tinued by the Humboldt Parkway (PL F, 3, 4), leads to (IV2 M.)
Humboldt Park (PL F, 5), another portion of the park system,
with a famous lily pond and a wading pool for children. Thence
we may now return to Main St. by Genesee St. (tramway). — Those
who have time may take a car on Broadway (PL D-F, 6, 7) and
proceed through a German and Polish district to (3 M.) the PuUman
to Niagara FalU. ROTTERDAM. 12. Route, 139
Company Car Works. — Farther on in the same direction, beyond
a labyrinth of railway tracks, are a series of gigantic Coal TrestUs,
1 M. long and 200 ft. high. — Among other bnildings may be
mentioned the Post Office (PL D,7), bonnded by Ellicott, Oak, Swan,
and Sonth Division Sts. ; the Buffalo General Hospital (PI. D, 5),
High St.; the Morgan Building (good view from tower; adm. 10 c),
at the S.W. comer of Niagara and S. Pearl Sts. (PI. C, 7); the
Arsenal of the 65th Regiment (PL E, 5); the Buffalo Yacht Club
(PL A, 5); St. Joseph's Cathedral (R. C; PL C, 7), Franklin St.;
Canisius College (PL D, 6), "Washington St. ; the University of Buffalo
(PL D, 5), High St. (700 students) ; and the Erie County Alms-
house, N. Main St. South Park (reached by tramway from Elli-
cott Sq.) contains horticultural gardens second only to those of
St. Louis (p. 414).
ExcuBSioN Steamees mn from the foot of Main St. to Crystal Beach,
and from the foot of Ferry St. to Fori Erie (Canada) and down the River
to Grand Island. Excursions may be also made to Chautauqua (p. 232),
Lakewood (p. 231), Lockport (p. 135), East Aurora (p. 185), etc. ; but the
favourite is, of course, that to '''Niagara Falls (p. 146), which may be
made by railroad (see below), by automobile (IV4 hr.), or by electric car
(I3/4 hr. ; 35 c, return-fare 50 c.). — Buffalo ia an important railway-centre,
lines radiating hence in all directions (see RE. 19, 50, etc.).
The N. Y. 0. line from Buffalo to Niagara Falls runs along the
right bank of Niagara River. 444 M. Black Rock; 451 M. Tonawanda,
with a large trade in lumber ; 4591/2 Echota, with an electric power-
house. — 462 M. Niagara Falls, see p. 146.
Beyond the Falls station the line goes on to (2 M.) Suspension Bridge
and (7 M.) Lewiston (p. 153), where it connects with the steamer to Toronto,
b. Via West Shore Railroad.
453 M. Railway to (429 M.) Buffalo in IIV2-I6 hrs. ($8; parlor-car or
sleeper $ 2); to (453 M.) Suspension Bridge in 121/2-17 hrs. (same fares). The
through-cars do not run through Albany, but holders of unlimited tickets
may go via Albany, on notice to the conductor. From Schenectady on-
wards this line follows almost the same route as the N, Y. C. E. R.,
having been constructed as a rival line and afterwards bought up by the
N, Y. C. R. R. Co.
From New York to (129 M.) Ravena, see R. 4 c. The Buffalo line
here diverges to the left from that to Albany (p. 91). 143 M. Voor-
heesville, junction of a line to Cobleskill, etc. (R. 6); 153V2 M.
South Schenectady (p. 129); I6O1/2 M. Rotterdam, junction of the
B. & M. R. R. (p. 335). Our Une follows the S. bank of the Mo-
hawk, paraUel with the N. Y. C. R. R. on the N. bank. 176 M. Auries-
ville, with the shrine mentioned at p. 130. From (191 M.) Cana-
joharie coaches run to (8 M.) Sharon Springs (p. 96 ; fare $ 1).
210 M. Little Falls (p. 130). From (2171/2 M.) Mohawk coaches run
to (10 M.) Richfield Springs (p. 131). — 233 M. Utica (p. 131). —
At (253 M.) Oneida Castle we intersect the N. Y., Ont., & W. R. R
(see p. 231). — 279 M. Syracuse (Rail. Restaurant), see p. 132. —
1^0 Route 12. DELAWARE WATER GAP. From New York
325 M. Lyons. Beyond (350 M.) Fairport the trains via (360 M.)
Bochester (Rail. Restaurant; see p. 135) diverge to the right, while
others keep on via (363 M.) Genesee Junction.
429 M. Buffalo, see p. 136.
FromBuffalo to (453 M.) Suspension Bridge, Niagara, see p. 139.
c. Via. Delaware, Lackawanna, & Western Bailroad.
410 M. Railway to Buffalo in 10-13 lira, (fare $ 8 ; parlor-car or sleeper
$ 2). Tlie trains start from Hoboken (ferries from W. 23rd St., Barclay St.,
and Christoplier St. 5 comp. p. 10).
Hoboken, see p. 73. The train threads the Bergen Tunnel (^/g M.).
11 M. Passaic, with (1905) 37,837 inhab., at the head of navigation
on the Passaic Eiver. — 15M.Paterson {Bellevue, $2) is an indus-
trial city with (1905) 111,529 inhab. and large silk and cotton mills.
The Passaic Falls here are 50 ft. high. — 34 M. Denville (520 ft.).
Another route of the same railway to this point leads via (8 M.) Newark
(p. 156); 12 M. Orange, a pretty little suburban city of (1905) 26,101 inhab.,
adjoining West Orange^ with the laboratory and home (in Llewellyn Park)
of Thomas A. Edison, the inventor (b. 1847; comp. p. 156), and also the
home of H. A. Harvev (1824-93), the inventor of 'Harveyized steel' ; 21 M.
Summit (380 ft.); and (30 M.) Morristown (Mansion Ho., $ 21/2), with a
historical museum in a house occupied by Washington as headquarters
in 1T77 and later. — 37 M. Denville^ see above.
From Summit (see ahove) a branch-line runs to (13 M.) BernardsvUle
(Somerset Inn, burned down in 1908), a pleasant summer -resort, and
('31 M.) Gladstone.
From (46 M.) Hopatcong stages ran to (4 M.) Lake Hopatcong
(725 ft.), 8V2M. long and 31/9 M. wide, with several summer-hotels.
— 48 M. Netcong (870 ft.) is the station (stage) for (2V2 M.) Budd's
Lake. — From (57 M.) Hackettstown (570 ft.) stages run to Schooley's
Mountain (1200 ft.), a summer-resort (Dorincourt Ho., from $ 2Y2)
— 67 M. Washington (500 ft.) is the junction of a line to (14 M.)
Easton (p. 144) and Philadelphia. Farther on our line penetrates
the Manunka Chunk Mt. by the Voss Gap Tunnel, 330 yds. long.
78 M. Manunka Chunk, the junction of a division of the Penna. R.R .
88 M. Delaware Water Gap (320 ft. ; Water Gap Ho., *Kitta-
tinny House, $ 3-4; Glenwood, $2-3), a group of hotels and cottages,
at the *Water Gap, or gorge, where the Delaware forces its way
through the Kittatinny or Blue Mts., the Minsi rising to the W. (in
Pennsylvania) and Tammany (comp. p. 43) to the E. (in New
Jersey). The gorge is about 2M. long, with rocky sides 1500ft. high,
and is so narrow as barely to leave room for the railway and the river.
'Whether this immense chasm has been caused by one mighty eruption,
or by a gradual yielding of stratum after stratum, by the immense pres-
sure of the waters of a lake thousands of acres in area ... is of course
a subject of mere conjecture. . . . The evidences of the action of water
and rocks hundreds of feet above the present level of the river-bed, and
the masses of drift forming isolated hills and alluvial banks, indicate
lake-like repose in the country now drained by the tributaries of the
stream above the great gate in the mountain barrier' (L. W. Brodhead^i
'Delaware Water Gap'). The Indian name of Minisink ('the water is gone'),
to Niagara Falls. SCRANTON. 12. Route. 141
applied to the country above the Gap, points to the traditional existence
of this lake. Several other gaps in the Blue Mts. are of similar late forma-
tion (comp. p. 187). — The Gap should be seen from the river, the road.
Table Rock, and Lovers' Leap.
Walks (comp. Map supplied at the hotels). To Eureka Falls, the Moss
Cfrotto, and Rebecca''s Bath, by the carriage-road through the Gap to (-/s M.)
the first creek. — Hunters'' Spring, Vs ^- farther up the *Eureka Glen, is
also reached by a white-marked path diverging to the right from the Mt.
Minsi path (see below). — The Silvan Way, beginning at the small lake
near the "Water Gap House and indicated by white marks, leads via Cooper''s
Cliff and Table Rock (500 ft. above the river) to (1/2 M.) Caldeno Falls, the
Moss Cataract, and. Diana's Bath. — By turning to the left 200 yds. farther
on we can descend to the (1/4 M.) Ridge Path (red marks) and follow it
to the left, past i'h.Q Lovers'' Retreat, back to (V2M.) the hotel. — To ascend
Mt. Minsi (1500 ft. 5 I1/2-2 hrs.) we follow the Ridge Path (see above; red
marks), passing the Lovers'' Retreat and Winona Cliff, and making a slight
digression (path with yellow marks) to "Prospect Point (1 M. from hotel;
TOO ft. above the river; view). The top, 2 M. farther on, commands an
extensive *View. The summit is also known as the Sappers'" ^View, from
the Honourable Corps of Sappers and Miners, an association of IS" ew Yorkers
and Philadelphians, which had about 100 officers of various grades to
command a single individual known as the 'High Private'. This body
made many of the paths and roads in the vicinity. — On the top of
"Winona Cliff is the Lovers' Leap, reached by a blue-marked path diverging
from the Eidge Path. — To ascend Mt. Tammany (1480 ft.; lV2-2hrs.) we
cross the river and start below the slate-factory.
Among the favourite Drives are those to Stroudsburg (4M. ; see below),
Deer Park and Cherry Valley (a round of 10 M.), Buttermilk Falls (3 M.),
Falls of Winona (12 M.), MarshalVs Falls (7 M.), and Castle Rock (4 M.).
A small Steamer plies on the Delaware, and Boats may be hired for
rowing or fishing. Among the places visited along the river are the Indian
Ladder Bluff, Mather's Spring, and the Point of Rocks.
From Philadelphia (p. 158) the Delaware "Water Gap is reached by the
Penna. R. R. in 31/2 hrs., via Trenton (p. 157).
Ill leaving tlie Water (rap tlie train crosses Brodhead Creek and
penetrates Bock Difficult ty a narrow cutting. — Beyond (93 M.)
Stroudsburg (400 ft.) we soon begin to ascend the steep slope of
Pocono Mt., passing throngh a tunnel near the top (view). At (119 M.)
Toiyhanna (1930 ft.) we hegin to descend the W. slope of the
Allegheny Mts. , at places very rapidly. — 145 M. Scranton (1060 ft. ;
JerTnyn, $ 3-5 ; Terrace, $ 2-3 ; Coyne, R. from $ 1), with (1900)
102,000 inhah. and a famous 'Correspondence School', at the con-
fluence of the Roaring Brook and the Lackawanna, owes its im-
portance to the vast adjoining fields of anthracite coal. Its iron
industries are extensive. — Beyond Scranton we pass several small
stations and enter Neiv York State ('Empire State').
207 M. Bingliamtoii (865 ft ; Arlington , R. from $ 1 ; Hotel
Bennett, $ 2Y2-5), a manufacturing to"wn of (1905) 42,035 inhah., is
the junction of railways to Albany (D. & H. R. R. ; p. 97), Richfield
Springs (p. 131), Syracuse (p. 132), Utica (p. 131), etc., and of
the Erie Railway (R. 12 d). — Our line here turns to the W. and
follows the same course as the Erie Railroad (p. 144), the one on
the right and the other on the left bank of the Susquehanna. 228 M.
Owego (815 ft. ; Ahwaga, $ 2), at the confluence of the Owego and
the Susquehanna, is the junction of a line to Ithaca (p. 145).
142 Route 12. TUXEDO. From New York
264 M. Elmira (855 ft. ; BaMun^ $ 2 V2-5, R. from $ 1 ; Langwell,
$2-31/2; Deleuan, $ 2), a town with (1905) 34,685 inhab., contains
rolling mills, tlie car-shops of the Erie Railroad, a Female College,
and an Academy of Science. The Elmira Reformatory has played
an important part in the reformatory treatment of criminals.
Railways radiate hence to Watkim Olen (p. 134) and Rochester (p. 135),
to Ithaca (p. 145) and Canastota (p. 132), to Harrisburg (p. 189) and Phila-
delphia (p. 158), and through the Lehigh Valley (p. 182).
282 M. Corning (950 ft.; Dickinson Ho., $2), with (1905) 13,515
inhab., is the junction of lines to Rochester (p. 135) and Williams-
port (p. 185). At (326 M.) Wayland (1360 ft.) we part company with
the Erie line, which here tnrns to the N. 334 M. Dansville (1040 ft. ;
Jackson Sanitarium, $ 31/2-5) ; 365 M. Rochester ^ Pittsburg Junction,
for lines to the N. to Rochester and to the S. to Pittsburg.
410 M. Buffalo, see p. 136.
From Buffalo to Niagara Falls, see p. 139 or p. 144.
d. Yik Erie Eailroad.
445 M. Erie R. R. to (425 M.) Buffalo in II-I2V2 hrs. (fare $ 8 ; parlor-car
or sleeper $2); to (445 M.) Suspension Bridge in 12-15 hrs. (same fares).
The train starts from Jersey City (comp. p. 10 ; ferries from 23rd St.
and Chambers St.). — This line, constructed in 1836-52, passes some fine
scenery in penetrating the Allegheny Mts.
Jersey City, see p. 73. The train threads the Bergen Tunnel
(p. 140) and traverses the Salt Marshes of the Hackensack.
These extensive marshes are covered with reeds and sedge grass,
growing in soft mud, which is sometimes 40 ft. deep. They are over-
flowed at high tide.
Beyond (10 M.) Rutherford we cross the Passaic. 13 M. Passaic,
17 M. Paterson (see p. 140). At (32 M.) Suffern (300 ft.) we enter
New York State (p. 141). — 34 M. Ramapo, in the picturesque
valley of that name. — 39 M. Tuxedo.
About 11/2 M. to the "W. is Tuxedo Lake, the property of the Tuxedo
Park Association, a club of New Yorkers, who have made this one of the
most fashionable pleasure-resorts and game-preserves in the country. On
the shores of the lake are the club-house and the cottages of members.
A good golf-course has been laid out.
48 M. Turner's (558 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant) is the junction of a
line to Newburgh (p. 90). — 50 M. Monroe (Monroe Hotel, $2).
About 10 M. to the S. lies "Greenwood Lake (62o ft.), a favourite
resort of hunters and fishermen, 9 M. long and 1 M. wide, also reache£[
by a direct railway from Jersey City. The chief hotels are the BrandoJ^
House ($ 272), in Greenwood Lake Village, the Windermere ($ 2'/2-3), an^j
Waterstone Cottage, all at the N. end of the lake, and the Ferncliff and Lake
side Hotels ($ 3), on the W. bank. The lake is surrounded bv well-wooded-
hills, attaining a height of 1500 ft.
60 M. Goshen, junction for Kingston and Rondout (p. 90) ; 68 M.
Middletown (560 ft. ; Madison Ho., $ 2 ; Rail. Restaurant), with
(1905) 14,515 inhab., junction of the N. Y., 0., & W. R. R. to Oswego
(comp. R. 29 e). Beyond (71 M.) Howells the line ascends the
Shawangunk or Kittatinny Range, and the scenery improves. Beyond
(76 M.) Otisville the train reaches the summit (870 ft.) by a long
to Niagara Falls. PORT JERVIS. i2. Route. 143
rocky cutting and begins to descend rapidly into the valley of tlie
Delaware.
89 M. Port Jervis (440 ft. ; Fowler Ho.^ from $ 2 ; Delaware Ho.^
from $ 1 V2)» situated at the junction of the Delaware and the Neversink^
is a village of (1905) 9695 inhah., frequented as a summer-resort.
At Port Jervis the Delaware abruptly changes its course from S.E. to
S.W. and runs hence, parallel to the Allegheny Mts., to (42 M.) the Dela-
ware Water Gap, where it again turns to the S.E. in breaking through
the Blue Eidge. A fine road, much frequented by motorists, runs along
the river at the foot of the shaly bluffs on the right bank; and the scenery
of this section of the Upper Delaware, in *Pike County (Pa.), is deservedly
famous and much visited by artists. Numerous picturesque falls and
gorges are formed by the streams descending from the highest part of
the ridge, here known as the Pocono Mts. (comp. p. 141), to the Delaware.
Among the chief points on the road are the following. — 8 M. Uilford
(Fauchere, $3 5 Bluff Ho., $2^/2-3), near the mouth of the ^SawMZ, the beautiful
falls of which are 3/4 M. distant. Close by is an experimental station of the
Tale School of Forestry. Otter't or Uiier's Cliff (800 ft.), to the S. of Mil-
ford, affords a fine view of the valley, with the blue wall of the Kitta-
tinny Mts. (see below) bounding the view to the S.W. Just below this
point the river is joined by Adams Brook, poplar with artists for its wild
scenery. — 12 M. Mouth of the RaymondsMll, with a fine cataract, IVa M.
back from the river. — 18 M. Dingman's FeiTy {High Falls Ho., $ 2-3), at
the mouth of Dingman's Greek, with an old ferry and a ruined bridge.
There are several small falls near the village, and 8 M. up the creek is
Childs Park., in a lovely little glen with a fine waterfall. Silver Lake is
3 M. farther up, near the headwaters of the stream. — 22 M. New Egypt
(inns), on Tom's Creek, a famous angling stream. — 27 M. Bushkill (Peters
Ho., Riverside Ho.), at the confluence of the Big and Little Bushkill Creeks.
The falls of the latter (2 M.) are the most beautiful in the district. The
Delaware here makes the famous 'Walpack Bend' or 'Fiddler's Elbow',
shaped like the letter S. — At (36 M.) MarshaWs Creek, also with a fall,
the highroad to Stroudsburg (p. 141) diverges to the right (inland). —
42 M. Delaware Water Gap, see p. 140.
The Tri-States Rock, to the S. of Port Jervis , marks the meeting of
New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. — Among other picturesque
resorts within easy reach of Port Jervis are High Point (1600 ft. 5 The Inn,
$4) and Lake Marcia, 4 M. to the E., on the ridge of the Kittatinny Mts.
(see p. 142; coach).
From Port Jervis the iV. F., Ontario, & Western Railway runs to (24 M.)
Monticello (1700 ft.; Rockwell, $2-3; Mansion Ho., $2) and via (22 M.)
Summitville (p. 230) to (55 M.) Kingston (p. 90).
Beyond Port Jervis the train crosses the Delaware into Penn-
sylvania ('Keystone State') and runs along its right bank, high above
the river. Great engineering difficulties were overcome in making
this part of the line, where the river-gorge is deep and tortuous. At
(111 M.) Lackawaxen (650 ft.) the Delaware and Hudson Canal
crosses the Delaware by an aqueduct. Like most of the other small
stations in the ^Delaware Highlands', this is a summer-resort with
several unpretending hotels and boarding-houses.
At (117 M.) Mast Hope we recross the river and re-enter New
York. About 4 M. to the W. is the domain of the Forest Lake As-
sociation (1500 ft.). — At (123 M.) Narrowshurg the valley is very
narrow. Beyond (177 M.) Deposit (1010 ft.) we quit the Delaware,
turn to the left (S.W.), and begin to ascend the ridge separating it
from the Susquehanna. Fine scenery. From (185 M.) Gulf Summit
144 Route 12. EASTON. From New York
(1375 ft.) we descend rapidly, soon obtaining a fine *View of the
Susquehanna (riglit). We cross the Cascade Bridge (180 ft. high) and
the Starrueca Viaduct, 1200 ft, long and 110 ft. high. 193 M. Sus-
quehanna (915 ft.), with railway repair-shops, lies on the left bank
of the river. — The line now descends throngh the Susquehanna
Valley. Beyond (216 M.) Binghamton (865 ft. ; p. 141) it runs
parallel with the Lackawanna Railway (R. 12 c), on the opposite
(right) bank. 238 M. Owego (p. 141); 274 M. Elmira (p. 142). At
(292 M.) Corning [950 ft. ; p. 142) a branch-line to Rochester
(p. 135) runs to the right (N.).
At (333 M.) Hornell (1160 ft. ; Sherwood, Osborne Hotel, Page
jGTo., $2-21/2 5 Bail. Restaurant), a town of (1905) 13,260 inhab., with
railroad works, the Buffalo branch diverges to the right from the
main line . which goes on to (414 M.) Salamanca and (461 M.)
Dunkirk (p. 231). — 363 M. Portage (1315 ft; Ingham Ho., $2)
is the station for the ^Portage Falls, formed by the Genesee River.
The Upper or Horseshoe Falls, 70 ft. Mgh, are V* M. below the village.
About 1/4 M. farther down are the Middle Falls, 110 ft. high, with a cave
called the 'DeviFs Oven' in the rocks near the foot of the precipice. For
2 M. farther the river descends through a narrow rocky defile and then
reaches the Lower Falls (150 ft.).
The train crosses the Genesee by a bridge 235 ft. high, affording
a \-iew of the Upper and Middle Portage Falls. 367 M. Castile
(1400 ft.); 370 M. Silver Springs, 6 M. from Silver Lake; 394 M.
Attica (1000 ft); 422 M. Clinton Street (East Buffalo; 610 ft).
425 M. Buffalo, see p. 136.
The trains for Niagara Falls follow practically the same route as
the N. Y. C. R. R. (p. 139). 433 M. Tonawanda; 439 M. La Salle;
444 M. Niagara Falls (p. 146) ; 445 M. Suspension Bridge (p. 145).
We cross the bridge (comp. p. 358) and connect at (446 M.) Niagara
Falls, Ontario (p. 363), with the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada.
e. Yik Lehigh Valley Eailrcad.
464 M. Lehigh Vallet R. R. to (451 M.) Buffalo in liV2-i2V2 hrs. (fare
$8; sleeper $2)5 thence to (464 M.) Suspension Bridge in 1 hr. more (same
fares). — The line starts from the Pennsylvania Station in Jersey City
(p. 10; ferries from Cortlandt, Desbrosses, and W. 23rd Sts.). This is a
very picturesque route. The 'Black Diamond Express' leaves at 11.55 a.m.
Jersey City, see p. 73. — The first section of this line follows
practically the same route as the Central of New Jersey R. R. (p. 10).
9 M. Newark (p. 156) ; 13 M. Elizabeth Junction; 27 M. South Plain-
field; 33 M. Bound Brook (p. 158). Beyond (QAM..) Pattenburg,
in the midst of a peach-orchard district, we thread the Musconetcong
Tunnel, nearly 1 M. in length. At (7672 M.) Philippsburg, an iron-
making town and railway -junction, we cross the Delaware and
enter Pennsylvania.
771/2 M. Easton (*Paxinosa Inn, from $3; Huntington, $3;
United States Ho., $272-3), at the Forks of the Delaware, an in-
to Niagara Falls. ITHACA. 13. Route. 145
dustrial town of 25,238 inhal)., is the site of Lafayette College, a well-
known Presbyterian institution (440 students), founded in 1826. It
is an important railway-centre (p. 140). Tlie Carnegie Library is one
of tlie prominent buildings. The Paxinosa Inn (p. 144) is a favourite
summer-resort, 2 M, above the town (electric car).
89 V2 M. BetMehem, and thence to (451 M.) Buffalo, see R. 19.
— Hence to Niagara Falls, see p. 139. The direct route diverges
at Batavia (comp. p. 185). — 464 M. Suspension Bridge, see p. 144.
13. From Auburn to Ithaca.
43 M. Lehigh Valley Railroad in 1^/4 hr. (fare $ 1.10). — An Electric
Railway, with hourly service, is to be opened soon.
Auiurn, see p. 133. — The line runs towards the S.W. From
(7 M.) Cayuga Junction a short branch-line runs to (4 M.) Cayuga
(p. 133). Our line now runs along the E. bank of *Cayuga Lake
(390 ft.), a charming sheet of water 38 M. long and 1-4 M. wide,
enclosed by hills rising 600-700 ft. above the water-level, and
affording good fishing, boating, and bathing. Steamers ply upon
the lake, the favourite resort on which is the Cayuga Lake House
($21/2-5; W. bank, Sheldrake P. 0.). — 10 M. Union Springs;
17 M. Aurora, the seat of the Wells College for "Women (170 students).
43 M. Ithaca (400 it; Clinton House, $ 2-21/2, ^eU spoken of,
Ithaca Hotel), a flourishing city with (1905) 14,615 inhab., lies
amid picturesque scenery at the head of Cayuga Lake, partly on the
level shore and partly on the adjoining heights. It is best known as
the seat of *CofiNELL Univebsitt (President, Dr. J. G. Schurman'),
one of the leading colleges of America (co-educational; 530 teachers,
4650 students).
The university is munificently endowed, and its huildings, splendidly
situated 400 ft. above the lake ("View), are handsome and capacious. It-
owes its foundation to the bounty of New York State, the National Govern-
ment, and Ezra Cornell (1807-74). Besides the usual academic and pro-
fessional branches, the educational course includes agriculture, the mechanic
arts, veterinary surgery, and military tactics. For the medical department,
see p. 53. The campus, which covers 200 acres, is perhaps the most
beautiful in the country. Among the most prominent buildings are the
huge Ooldwm Smith Hall (1907 •, with an interesting archseological museum),
the Library (350,000 toIs. ; important Dante, Petrarch, and Icelandic col
lections), the "Sage Chapel (with fine mosaics, stained glass, and memorials),
and the Sage College (for women). The Hydraulic Laboratory on Fall
Creek (see below) is very interesting.
Visitors should make the 'Loop Ride' by electric car (Stewart Ave.
line; fare 5 c.), which takes in the University Campus, Cornell
Heights, Llenroc (the home of Ezra Cornell, see above), and Ren-
wick Beach, affording fine views of the lake and of the gorges of
Fall and Cascadella Creeks, with their waterfalls (e.g., Ithaca Fall,
120 ft. high).
The romantic environs of Ithaca, which Ludwig Fulda describes as
combining the beauties of the Black Forest with those of the Lake of
Zurich, contain many more pretty waterfalls, the finest of which is the
146 Route 14. NIAGARA FALLS.
*Taghanic or Taughannock Fall, wMch is about 9 M. to the N. of Ithaca
and I'/z M. to the W. of the lake. The stream here forms a ravine, with
rocky sides 200-400 ft. high, and plunges perpendicularly over a table-rock
to a depth of 215 ft., presenting the highest waterfall E. of the Rockies
(50 ft. higher than Niagara). There is a hotel near the fall, and it may
be reached by road, railway, or water.
Fkom Ithaca (East Ithaca station) to Fkeeville, 9 M., Lehigh Valley R. R.
in V2 lir. (fare 25 c). — Freeville (Inn, small) is the seat of the *George
Junior Republic, established by Mr. William R. George in 1895. This is a
miniature republic, modelled on the government of the United States, the
citizens of which (ca. 160 in number) are boys and girls between the ages
of 14 and 21. The republic has its own legislature, court-house, jail,
school, church, and public library, and its citizens elect their rulers,
make and enforce laws, and carry on business just as adults do in the
greater world. Its grounds (350 acres) are cultivated by the boys. The
legal status of the republic is similar to that of a State Reformatory.
This interesting experiment seems to work well, and a visit to Freeville
rivals in sociological interest that to Ellis Island (p. 72). Those interested
in the work may become members of the George Junior Republic
Association for an annual fee of $ 5. Communities on a similar plan
have also been established in various other states.
From Ithaca to Philadelphia and to Buffalo, see R. 19 a.
14. Niagara Falls.
Railway Stations. New York Central (PI. C, 4), cor. of Falls St. and
Second St., also used by the Michigan Central, West Shore, Lehigh Valley,
and the R. W. & 0. railways; JSrie Depot (PI. C, 4), cor. of Niagara St.
and Fourth St. — The Canadian lines make connection for Niagara Falls
at Suspension Bridge (PI. C, 1), 2 M. to the N. ; and there are also stations
on the Canadian side at Niagara Falls (Ontario; PI. B, 1), Victoria Park
(PI. A, 3), and Falls View (PI, A, 6; comp. p. 85S). — Niagara Falls, N. Y.,
is also connected with Suspension Bridge by tramway (5 c).
Hotels. International Hotel (PI. a; B, 4), Cataract Hotel (PI. b;
B, 4), $ 3-51/2, both under one management and open in summer only (all
meals served in the International); Kaltenbagh (PL d; C, 4), German,
well spoken of, from $ 3; Prospect House (PL c; C, 4), well spoken of,
$ 31/2-51/2; Imperial (PL e; C, 4), 5 2V2-4; Tower (PL f; B, 4), $ 2V2-4.
These are all on the American side, in the city of Niagara Falls. —
*Clifton Hodse (PL h; A, 4), on the Canadian side, near the Upper
Steel Arch Bridge, with a fine view of the Falls, from § 4, with bath
from $ 5; Lafayette (PL g; A, 8), opposite the Canadian end of the Upper
Steel Arch Bridge, $ 3, both open all the year round.
Carriages. The former extortionate charges and impertinent demeanour
of the Niagara hackmen have been somewhat abated, but the cab-touts on
the trains and at the station are scarcely to be trusted. The rat?s are SlVz
for the first and $ 1 for each addit. hr., with two horses $ 2 and $ IV2 ; but
it is always advisable to make a distinct bargain with the driver, and
lower terms than the legal rates may often be obtained, especially by a
party. It should be expressly stipulated who is to pay the tolls in
crossing the bridges, etc. ; and the driver should be strictly enjoined not to
stop at any of the bazaars or other pay-places unless ordered to do so.
A single-horse conveyance should not cost more than $ 3 for half-a-day
or $ 5 for a whole day and small carriages for 1-2 pers. are generally
obtainable for $ 1 per hour. — Park Vans make the round of the American
Reservation at frequent intervals (fare 25 c., for Goat Island 15 c.), and
passengers are entitled to alight at any number of points and finish the
round by any subsequent vehicle on the same day. — Omnibus from the
station to the hotels 25 c.
Electric Tramways. The International Railwat runs along the
Canadian bank from Queension (p. 153; see PL B, 1) to (IIV2 M.) Ctiippatea
(beyond PL C, 6; p. 152; fare 45 c.), taking IVslhr. to the trip and stop-
"VVagner & Uebes'' Geog' EsJattL^zig
NIAGARA FALLS. 14. Route. 147
ping at Brocks Monument (10 c), the Whirlpool (20 c), Niagara Falls Town
(25 c), Niagara Falls Park (30 c), and Dufferin Islands (30 c). The
Niagara Gokge Railkoad (Great Gorge Route), on the American side,
runs through the gorge and along the brink of the river to (7 M.) Lew-
iston (p. 153; fare 50 c., there and back 75 c.) and thence on to Youngs-
town and (14 M.) Fort Niagara (p. 153; 65 c., 95 c.). — These lines afford
admirable views of the rapids, gorge, and falls. Visitors are recom-
mended to take the Canadian line to Queenston, cross the suspension
bridge to Lewiston, and return on the American side (or vice versa;
round-trip fare $ 1). This is known as 'The Niagara Belt Line', Evening
excursions are sometimes arranged, with search -light effects on the
rapids and whirlpool. 'Stop - overs' are allowed on these lines without
extra charge. — An electric railway also runs from Niagara to Buffalo
(comp. p. 139).
Fees. Since the establishment of the American and Canadian National
Parks and Reservations, most of the former extortionate fees have been
abolished; and any visitor who is able to walk a few miles can see all
the chief points at very little cost. Goat Island and all the best views
of the Falls are free; and the only extra expenses which the visitor is
advised to incur are the trip in the ''Maid of the Mist\ including the visit
to the Canadian side (50 c.), the Gave of the Winds ($1; or the similar trip
on the Canadian side, 50 c.), and the view of the Whirlpool Rapids (50c.).
Photographs. Among the best photographs of Niagara are those of
Zyhach d: Co., Niagara Falls, Ontario (p. 363).
Reservations. The New Fork State Reservation at Niagara comprises
107 acres and was opened in 1885. It includes Prospect Park and Goat
Island. — The Queen Victoria Niagara Falls Park, extending along the
river on the Canadian side, all the way from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario,
covers 787 acres ; the Park Reservation in the immediate neighbourhood
of the Falls contains 196 acres.
Plan and Season of Visit. The description in the text follows the
best order in which to visit the Falls. The American side is seen to
greatest advantage in the morning, the Canadian side in the afternoon,
the sun being then at our backs as we face the Falls. The Whirlpool
Rapids are best seen from the Canadian side. It is possible to see all the
chief points in one day, but it is better to allow 2-8 days for the visit.
The first half of June, the secondhalf of Sept., and Oct. are good seasons
to visit Niagara, which is hot and crowded in midsummer. No one who
has an opportunity to see them should miss the Falls in the glory of
their winter dress.
The **Falls of Niagara ('Thunder of Waters'), one of the
greatest and most impressive of the natural wonders of America,
are situated on the Niagara River, 22 M. from its head in Lake Erie
and 14 M. above its mouth in Lake Ontario. This river forms the
outlet of the four great Western lakes (Erie, Huron, Michigan, and
Superior), descending about 330 ft. in its course of 36 M. and af-
fording a channel to a large part of the fresh water in the globe.
Its current is swift for about 2 M. after leaving Lake Erie, but be-
comes more gentle as the channel widens and is divided into two
parts by Orand Island (p. 153). Below the island the stream is
2V2 M. wide. About 15 M. from Lake Erie the river narrows again
and the rapids begin, flowing with ever increasing speed until in the
last 3/4 M. above the Falls they descend 55 ft. and flow with immense
velocity. On the brink of the FaUs, where the river bends at right
angles from W. to N., the channel is again divided by Goat Island,
which occupies about one-fourth of the entire width of the river
148 Route U. NIAGARA FALLS. History.
(4770 ft). To tte riglit of it is tlie * American Fall, 1000 ft. wide
and 167 ft. high, and to the left of it is the **Canadian or Horseshoe
Fall, 158 ft. high, with a contour of 2550 ft. The volume of water
which ponrs over the Falls is 12 million cnbic ft. per minnte (about
1 cnbic mile per week), of which fnlly nine -tenths go over the
Canadian Fall, t The clond of spray and vapour hanging over the
Falls is visible for miles. The Falls descend into a basin about
100 ft. deep, thong farther down it reaches a depth of 192 ft. Here
the so-called 'Ice Bridge' often forms in winter, from the regelation
offices carried over the Falls. The gorge is here about 1250ft.
in vridth. Two miles farther down it is barely 800 ft. wide, and at
the Whirlpool Rapids (p. 152), with a descent of 50 ft, the huge
volume of water is compressed into a space of less than 300 ft.
Within 7 M. the various lower rapids descend 100 ft., but atLewiston
the river once more becomes wider and smoother.
The gorge tJirougli wMcli the river runs has been formed by the action
of the vast body of water rushing through it, and the Falls themselves
are receding up the river at a mean rate which in 1842-1905 averaged 4.2 ft.
per annum. The rocks passed through by the receding falls are lime-
stone, shale, and sandstone. At present the formation over which the
water pours is limestone, with shale lying 80-90 ft. below it; and the
frequent fall of great masses of limestone rock is nndouhtedly occasioned
by the erosion of the underlying shales. At the Whirlpool the continuity
of the rock- format! on is interrupted, and the end wall of the ravine is
formed of drift. The lower three miles of the gorge required 35,500 years
for its formation, while the upper four mUes required only 3500 years, —
due to great change in physical condition. Comp. 'The Falls of Niagara',
by /. W. W. Spencer (1907)."
Niagara Falls appear under the name of Ongiara in Sanson's Map of
Canada (Paris, 1657), but the first white man known to have seen Niagara
Falls was Father Hennepin^ a member of La Salle's party in 1678. He
described them as 'a vast and prodigious Cadence of Water, which falls
down after a surprizing and astonishing manner, insomuch that the Uni-
verse does not afford its Parallel. . . . The Waters which fall from
this horrible Precipice do foam and boyl after the most hideous manner
imaginable, making an outrageous Noise, more terrible than that of Thun-
der; for when the Wind blows out of the South, their dismal roaring may
be heard more than 15 leagues off.' The sketch he made of the Falls shows
several points of difference from their present state.
The Indians have a tradition that the Falls demand two human victims
every year; and the number of accidents and suicides is more than
large enough to maintain this average. Many lives have been lost in
foolhardy attempts to cross the river above Goat Island.
The American city of Niagara Falls (hotels, see p. 146) closely
adjoins the river and in 1905 contained 26,560 inhab. (as compared
with 5502 in 1890). The chief source of its prosperity has long been
the influx of sightseers ; but it is now, thanks to the tapping of the
Falls by tunnels and power canals, rapidly becomrag an industrial
centre of great importance. It is estimated that about 700,000 tourists
visit the Falls yearly.
Within the past few years the authorities of Canada and the United
States have authorized the subtraction of water from Niagara for in-
t The international boundary passes near Terrapin Rock (p. 150), thus
leaving a small part of the Horseshoe Fall in American territory.
Prospect Park. NIAGARA FALLS. 14. Route. 149
dustrial purposes to the extent of no less than 750,000 horse- power
and already 80,000 horse-power is ready for use on the Canadian side and
140,000 horse-power on the American side. So far the general appearance
of the Falls has been little marred by these operations (except for the
intrusion of power-houses and distributing stations on the Canadian shore);
but a good deal of apprehension exists as to the possible diminution of
the grandeur of Niagara, and it is hoped that an international agreement
may be arrived at to secure a modus operandi that will satisfy at once the
demands of the industrialists and those of the lovers of natural beauty.
On the American side a tunnel (PI. B-D, 4), 29 ft. deep and 18 ft. wide,
has been excavated through the solid rock from a point just below the
Upper Steel Arch Bridge to a point about IV4 M. above the Falls, where it
is 165 ft. below the level of the river. It passes below the city at a depth
of about 200 ft. A short canal diverts a portion of the river to the head
of the tunnel, where a maximum of 120,(XX) horse-power is attained.
A similar tunnel on the Canadian side is 2000 ft. long, 26 ft. high, and
23V2 ft. wide. The largest steel flume in the world, 18 ft. in diameter,
runs below the Canadian National Park, carrying enough water to develop
60,000 horse-power. The farthest point to which the power of Niagara
has so far been transmitted is Syracuse, 160 M. distant. The power derived
from Niagara is used not only in manufacturing but also for hundreds of
miles of electric railways and the lighting of several towns.
The traveller should undoubtedly visit one of the power-houses, where
he will receive an impression of weird force hardly unworthy of mention
beside that produced by the Falls themselves. The intake-canals, the
wheel-pits, the huge 'penstocks' or vertical inlet-pipes, the turbines, the
generators, etc. are full of interest even for the non-professional visitor.
The power-house of the Magara Falls Co. (beyond PI. D, 4-, 80,000 horse-
power; a dm. 25 c.; guide) on the American side, is easily reached by the
Buffalo trolley or any of the cars marked 'Power House'. The Ontario
Power Co. (p. 151; 50"c.) and the Canadian Magara Power Co. (PI. A, 6;
25 c), both on the Canadian side, also admit visitors. With the Niagara
Falls Co. Power House may be combined a visit to the Natural Food
Conservatory (PI. C, 4, 5), in Buffalo Ave., where the well-known shredded-
wheat biscuits are made. Besides the processes of manufacture, the visitor
will find many features of interest in the arrangement of the factory, in-
cluding the employees' dining-room, the marble bathroom, and the audi-
torium. Guides are provided to show visitors over the huge building
(no charge). Splendid view from roof-observatory.
We may begin onr visit to the Falls by entering Prospect Park
(PI. B, 4), 12 acres in extent, which adjoins the gorge close to the
American Fall. At ^Prospect Point., protected by an iron parapet, we
stand on the very brink of the Fall and see it dash on the rocks below.
Hennepin's View, a little to the right (N.), commands a good general
*yiew. Near the point is the Superintendent's Office, whence an In-
clined Railway (5 c.) and a Flight of Steps descend to the bottom of
the gorge and the dock of the 'Maid of the Mist' (see p. 151).
Following the parkway to the left (W.) from Prospect Point, we
reach (3 min.) the Ooat Island Bridge (860 ft. long), crossing the
right arm of the river, a little above the American Fall. It commands
a fine view of the * Upper Rapids. To the right are several little
rocky islets, including Avery's Rock, where an unfortunate man found
foothold for 18 hrs. before being swept over the fall by the impact
of a boat let out with ropes in an attempt to save him. The bridge
ends at Green Island, whence another short bridge crosses to *Goat
Island (PI. B, 5 ; 80 acres in extent). Here we follow the path to
the right to (4 min.) *Luna Island, a rocky islet between the main
IbO Route 14. NIAGARA FALLS. /Goat Island.
t
American Fall and the ^Centre Fall, named from the lunar rainbows
seen here at full moon. The continuation of the path along the "W.
side of Goat Island leads in a minute or two more to the Biddle
Stairs (free) and the office where a guide and complete change of
dress are obtained for a descent to the *Cave of the Winds (PI. *C.
of W.', B 5; fee $ 1 ; small gratuities expected).
Everyone should descend the stairs and follow tlie path along the
foot of the cHflfs towards the base of the Centre Fall, but only those
of strong nerves should attempt the trip through the Cave of the Winds,
which, however, is said to be safe and is often made by ladies. For those
who can stand it the experience is of the most exciting and pleasurable de-
scription. After passing over the gangways and bridges amid the rocks
and spray in front of the Centre Fall, we are conducted through the
'Cave of the Winds' behind it, where the choking, blinding, and deafen-
ing tumult of wind and water defies description. The visitors grasp each
other by the hand and sidle through on a narrow ledge, with a perpen-
dicular wall of rock within an inch of their noses and the mighty volume
of the fall at their backs.
Beyond the Biddle Stairs the path on Goat Island leads to
(4 min.) Porter'' s Bluff, overlooking the Horseshoe Fall, the Cana-
dian Rapids, and the ravine below the Falls. A staircase and bridge
descend hence to **Terrapin Rock (PI. A, 5), on the edge of the
Horseshoe Falls, affording the best view of these from this side.
'The river here is evidently much deeper than the American branch,
and instead of bursting into foam where it quits the ledge, it bends sol-
idly over and falls in a continuous layer of the most vivid green. The
tint is not uniform, but varied, long strips of deeper hue alternating with
bands of brighter colour . . . From all this it is evident that beauty
is not absent from the Horseshoe Fall, but majesty is its chief attribute.
The plunge of the water is not wild, but deliberate, vast, and fascinating'
(Tyndall).
Our path next leads along the S. side of Goat Island to (7-8 min.)
the series of bridges leading to the * Three Sister Islands (PI. B, 5),
which afl'ord the best view of the imposing *Canadian Rapids (PI. A,
5, 6), running at the rate of 30 M. an hour. The Third Sister is
adjoined by a smaller rock known as the Little Brother.
We may now return through the centre of Goat Island to (5 min.)
the bridge leading to the mainland, but those who have time should
follow the path to (4 min.) the 'Parting of the "Waters' at the head
of Goat Island (PI, C, 5), where we obtain a good view of the broad
and quiet river above the cascades, with Grand Island (p. 153) in
the background. Thence the path leads back along the N. side of
Goat Island, affording a view of the American Rapids, to (5-6 min.)
the bridge.
We may now cross to the Canadian side of the river by the *Upper
Steel Arch Bridge (PI. B, 4), about 250 yds. below the American
Fall (see p. 152), erected in 1897-98 to take the place of the sus-
pension-bridge formerly at this spot. The main span, the largest
of the kind in the world, is 840 ft. long, while the flanking spans
rincease the total length of the bridge to 1240 ft. It is 49 ft, wide.
An electric tramway crosses in the centre, and on each side are
Table Boch; NIAGARA FALLS. 14. Route. 151
carriage-ways and footpaths. The bridge is 195 ft. above the level
of the water. Bridge-toll 10 c, incl. tramway fare. — Jnst below
the bridge, on the American shore, is the month of the tnnnel
described at p. 149. On the bank above is a group of mills and
mannfactories, run by the power of a surface canal.
On reaching the Canadian end of the bridge, we tnrn to the left
andreach (3 min.) *Queen Victoria Niagara Falls Park (PI. A, 4-6),
which extends along the river for 21/2 M- (electric railway, see
p. 146). The park contains a bronze statne (by Dnnbar) of Colonel
Qzowski (1813-99), its chief promotor. As we proceed splendid
general views are obtained of the Falls and the gorge, especially from
the (3 min.) *Earnblers Rest (PI. A, 4) and (4 min.) ^Inspiration
Point (PI. A, 4). To the right, 3-4 min. farther on, are Picnic
Grounds and a Restaurant ; and in 3 min. more we reach the entrance
to the power-honse of the Ontario Power Co. (PI. A, 5). Just
beyond are the Table Rock House and **Table Rock (PL A, 5),
which affords an indescribably grand view of the Horseshoe Falls.
Beautiful rainbows are seen on the spray in the afternoon. The roar
of the water is deafening.
The name of Table Kock still adheres to tliis point, though the last
portion of the overhanging ledge that gave rise to it fell into the abyss
in 1850. — An elevator here affords an opportunity to those who wish to
go under the Falls (25c., with dress 50c.). This trip does not necessitate
the removal of clothing, but only the protection of oil-skin suits. It has
been improved by the construction of a tunnel (200 ft. long) and now
affords imposing *Views of the falls from behind and below.
The walk through the Park above the Falls to (3-4 min.) Cedar Island
and (1 M.) Dvfferin Islands (PI. B, 6) has now lost much of its attraction
owing to the transformation wrought by the Power Companies. No time
need be wasted on the so-called Burning Spring (adm. 50 c). — Falls
View Station of the Michigan Central R.R. (PI. A, 6; see p. 358), lies just out-
side the Park. — A road diverging near Table Rock leads to Lundy''s Lane^
where a bloody but somewhat indecisive struggle took place on July
25th, 1814, between the Americans and the Anglo-Canadians. The latter,
however, were left in possession of the field, the Americans retiring on Fort
Erie. A monument has been erected to the Canadians who fell in the battle.
No one should omit to take the **Trip in the little steamer the
Maid of the Mist, which starts near the foot of the Inclined Railway
descending from the end of Prospect Park (see p. 149), steams up
the river nearly to, the foot of the Horseshoe Fall, and touches at
a wharf on the Canadian side (fee 50 c, incl. water-proof dress).
The view it affords of the Falls is one of the best to be had ; and the
trip is perfectly safe. Passengers may disembark on the Canadian
side (where an incline ascends to the National Park) and return by
any later trip of the steamer the same day.
The river and its banks below the bridge offer many points of
great interest. The Lower Rapids and the Whirlpool (p. 152) are
both seen to greatest advantage from the Canadian side.
From the N. end of the bridge we follow the road (electric
railway, see p. 146) descending along the edge of the cliff to (2 M.)
the *Cantilever Bridge (PI. B, C, 1) of the Michigan Central Railroad,
Babdekee's United States. 4th Edit. 10
152 Route Id. NIAGARA FALLS. Whirlpool Rapids.
completed in 1883. It is entirely of steel and has a total length of
900 ft. The two cantilever arms, 395 ft. and 375 ft. long, are con-
nected in the centre by a fixed span of 125 ft. It is 245 ft. above
the water. About 100 yds. below this bridge is the *Lower Steel
Arch Bridge (PI. B, 1) of the Grand Trunk Railway^ erected in
1897 on the site of the former Railway Suspension Bridge, with a
roadway below the railroad track (toll 10 c, incl. retnm). The length
of the bridge, including approaches, is 1100 ft., half of which is
absorbed by the arch itself. The highest point is 226 ft. above the
water. It commands a fine view of the Whirlpool Rapids, but the
Falls are partly hidden by the Cantilever Bridge.
A little below the Lower Steel Arch Bridge is the entrance to the
Rapids Park, where we descend an Inclined Railway (50 c.) to the
*Wliirlpool Eapids, which in their own way are as wonderful as the
Falls. The immense volume of water is here forced to flow through
a channel (300 ft.) so narrow and so impeded with rocks, that it
actually assumes a convex form, the centre of the river being much
higher than the edges. Three other elevators (each 50 c.) descend
to the Rapids on the American side.
It was in an effort to swim down these Rapids that Capt. "Webb lost
his life in 1883, but since then several persons have passed through them
safely in barrels. The old 'Maid of the Misf was successfully piloted
through the Eapids to Lewiston in 1861. Blondin and others have crossed
the gorge above the Rapids on ropes of hemp or wire.
Near the wooden staircase ascending to the DeviVs Sole is a tablet
commemorating an Indian massacre in 1763.
We may now cross the railway-bridge and return along the
American side (tramway, see p. 1471.
About 1 M. below the Railway Bridge is the *Wliirlpool (1150ft.
in diameter ; beyond PI. B, 1), of which we get a good distant view
from the top of the cliff. The river here bends suddenly at right
angles to its former course, and the Whirlpool is occasioned by the
full force of the current impinging against the cliffs of the left bank.
'Here, within the compass of a mile, those inland seas of the North,
Siiperior, Huron, Michigan, Erie, and the multitudes of smaller lakes, all
pour their floods, where they swirl in dreadful vortices, with resistless
undercurrents boiling beneath the surface of that mighty eddy. Abruptly
from this scene of secret power, so different from the thunderous splen-
dours of the cataract itself, rise lofty cliffs on evei;y side, to a height of
two hundred feet, clothed from the water's edge almost to their crests
with dark cedars. Noiselessly, so far as your senses perceive, the lakes
steal out of the whirlpool, then, drunk and wild, with brawling rapids
roar away to Ontario through the narrow channel of the river. Awful as
the scene is, you stand so far above it that you do not know the half of
its terribleness ; for those waters that look so smooth are great ridges and
rings, forced, by the impulse of the currents, twelve feet higher in the
centre than at the margin. Nothing can live there, and with what is
caught in its hold, the maelstrom plays for days, and whirls and tosses
round and round in its toils, with a sad maniacal patience'. (Howells.)
The ErvEE Road ascends along the American side of the river from
Goat Island Bridge to (1 M.) the Old French Landing., where La Salle and
Father Hennepin (p. 148) are said to have embarked in 1678 after their portage
from Lewiston. Nearly opposite, on the Canadian shore, is the village of
Chippawa, where the Americans defeated the English in 1814. This is the
KINGSTON. 15. Route. 153
terminus of the Electric Railway (p. 146). About 1 M. farther up is the
Schlosser Landing^ fortified hy the French in 1750 and by the English in
1761. Navy Island, near the Canadian shore, gave shelter to the insurgents
of the 'Mackenzie War' (1837-38). Just above is Grand Island (26 sq. M.
in area; comp. p. 147; edell Ho., a popular summer-hotel, $2-3), which
obtained some notoriety in 1820, when Major Noah proposed to found here
the city of Ararat, as a universal refuge for the Jews. Opposite Grand
Island, on the American shore, 5 M. above the Falls, is the mouth of the
Cayuga, where La Salle launched the 'Griffon', the first vessel to navigate
the Great Lakes (1679).
The Observation Trains of the N.Y.C.R.R. between Niagara Falls and
(7 M.) Lewiston (return-fare 25 c.) afford admirable views (to the left) of
the gorge of the Niagara. — Lewiston, a pleasant little village, is the
starting-point of the steamers across Lake Ontario to Toronto (comp.
Baedeker''s Canada). A fine suspension-bridge, 800 ft. in span and traversed
by an electric tramway, connects Lewiston with Queensfon, on the opposite
shore, where Gen. Brock fell on Oct. 13th, 1812 (spot marked by a mon-
ument 195 ft. high). Queenston is a station on the Michigan Central R.R.
(electric tramway, see p. 146). — About 8 M. to the N.E. of Niagara Falls
is the Reservation of the Tuscarora Indians (p. 180 ^ baskets, etc., for sale).
— Fort Niagara, at the (14 M.) mouth of the river, first established in
1678, is now garrisoned by TJ. S. troops (tramway, see p. 147). Opposite
is the watering-place of Niagara-on-the-Lake. — Comp. Baedeker''s Canada.
15. The St. Lawrence River and the Thousand Islands.
Passengers who make the St. Lawrence trip from American soil may
join the steamer either at Charlotte (see below, fare to Montreal $ 9) or
at Clayton (p. 154 5 fare to Montreal $ 5V2), which is reached from
New York (340 M.) via the N. Y. C. R. R. to (238 M.) Utica and the Rome,
Watertovm, & Ogdensburg R. R. thence (10 hrs.5 through-carriages; fare
$ 8.27-, comp. R. 12 a). — The Montreal steamer of the Richelieu & Ontario
Navigation Co. leaves Toronto daily in summer at 3 p.m., Charlotte at
11.45 p.m., and Kingston (where it receives most of its passengers) about
6 a.m., calling at Clayton ^^|^ hr. later. Montreal is reached about 6.30 p.m.
In the height of the season it is advisable to secure berths some time
in advance. — Those who wish merely to visit the Thousand Islands may
do so by one of the steamers which make daily round-trips from Clayton
(fare 50 c); the 'Lawrence', equipped with a powerful search-light, makes
her trip in the evening. Comp. Baedeker''s Canada.
The St. Lawrence, the outflow of the Great Lakes, has a length (from
Lake Ontario to its mouth) of 500 M. and pours more fresh water into the
Ocean than any other river except the Amazon. It is navigable for large
vessels to Montreal and for small steamers all the way, though some of
the rapids have to be avoided by means of canals by boats ascending the
river (comp. pp. 155, 156). During 4-5 months, however, the navigation of
the lower St. Lawrence is stopped by ice. Comp, Baedeker''s Canada.
Leaving Toronto (see Baedeker's Canada) the steamer makes its
first stop at —
95 M. Charlotte (European Ho., Latta Ho., $ 2), a small lake-
port In the State of New York, connected by a short railway with
(9 M.) Rochester (p. 135).
The steamer now heads to the N.W. and crosses the lake to —
185 M. Kingston (*British American Hotel, $ 2-4; Randolph
$2; Iroquois, $1-2; Anglo-American Hotel, $1-11/2)? a city of
17,061 inhah., with picturesque fortifications, situated at the point
where the St. Lawrence issues from Lake Ontario (see Baedeker's
10*
154 Bowfe i5. THOUSAND ISLANDS. 8t. Lawrence River.
Canada). A small steamer plies regularly to Cape Vincent (Carleton
Hotel, $ 21/2-3).
On leaving Kingston onr steamer almos at once begins to traverse
the expansion of the St. Lawrence known as the *Lake of the Thou-
sand Islands , which is 40 M. long and 4 -7 M. wide and contains
ahont 1700 islands, big and little. Many of these islands are favourite
summer-resorts, with hotels and boarding-houses, while others are
private property, with the country-houses of rich Americans and
Canadians. The voyage through them is picturesque, and many of
the islands are illuminated at night. Our course at first lies between
Wolfe or Long Island (r.) and Howe Island (1.).
210 M. (r.) Clayton (Hubbard, from $ 21/2 ; IzaaTc Walton, $ 2-21/2 ;
Herald Ho., $ 1 V2-2), a village and summer-resort with (1905) 1918
inhab., is the terminus of the R., W., & 0. R. R. from (108 M.) Utica
(comp. p. 131). Opposite is the large Grindstone Island, behind
which, on the Canadian shore, lies Qananoque (Gananoque Inn,
$ 21/2-4).
213 M. (r.) Bound Island or Frontenac, with the Hotel Frontenac
($ 5). — Opposite lies Murray Isle (Hot. Murray Hill, $ 3-4).
216 M. (1.) Thousand Island Park [Columbian, $3-4; Grand
View Park, $2-21/2; ^^ew Wellesley, $ 2-2V2), a great Methodist
resort, at the W. end of Wellesley Island. — A little lower down is
the St. Lawrence Park (r.), with the Lotus Hotel ($3-5).
226 M. (r.) Alexandria Bay (Crossmon, $ 4-5 ; Thousand Isle
Ho.. $4-5; Edgewood, $21/2-4; Marsden Ho., $21/2-31/2; Walton
Cottage, $ 2-21/2), the chief resort among the Thousand Islands, lies
on the American shore, opposite Wellesley Island, and counts pretty
scenery and good boating and fishing among its attractions. Among
the most prominent villas on the neighbouring islets are those be-
longing to the Pullman Family, to George C. Boldt (Heart Island),
and to H. H. Warner (of the 'Safe Cure'). — Westminster Park (Hotel
Westminster, $ 2-4) lies at the E. end of Wellesley Island, opposite
Alexandria Bay, and is reached by ferry.
Farther on we pass the Summerland Islets (1.) and the long Gre-
nadier Island (1.), leave the Lake of the Thousand Isles, and reach
the open river, here about 2 M. wide. For some distance now the
voyage is monotonous and uninteresting.
251 M. (1.) Brockville (Strathcona, $ 21/2-31/2; Revere, $ 2-21/2;
St. Lawrence Hall, $ 11/2-2; Grand Central, $1^/2) is * Canadian
city with 8940 inhab. and good fishing. This port is not invariably
called at.
265 M. (1.) Prescott (Daniels Ho., $2-3). Passengers are here
transferred from the lake -steamer to the river - steamer. — Op-
posite lies —
268 M. (r.) Ogdensburg [Seymour Ho., $2-3; Windsor, Norman,
$ 2), a city at the mouth of the Oawegatchie, with (1905) 13,179
Inhab. and a trade in grain. [The steamer does not call here.] To
St. Lawrence Rivtr. CORNWALL. 15. Route. 155
the right the buildings of the Point Airy New York State Asylum
for the Irhsane are conspicuous. From Ogdensburg to Rouse's Poirht,
see p. 312; to Rome and JJtica, see pp. 131, 132.
About 9 M. below Ogdensburg we pass through the Oallops or
Galoups Rapids (71/2 M. long), which are followed, 41/2 M. lower, by
the Rapide Plat. Neither of these is very noticeable, though each is
avoided by a canal (Canadian side) in going upstream. Between them
we pass the narrowest point in the river (500 ft.). Many islands.
280 M. (1.) Morrisburg, just below the Rapide Plat.
294 M. (r.) Louisville Landing, whence stages run to (7 M.)
Massena Springs (Hatfield Ho., from $3; White, $2; comp. p. 132).
About 35 M. beyond Prescott we enter the *Long Sault Rapids,
between the Canadian shore and Long Sault Island. The rapids are
9 M. long and are tumultuous enough to give a slight suggestion of
danger to the process of 'shooting' them. They are avoided in ascend-
ing by the Cornwall Canal, 11 1/2 M. long. Part of the water of these
rapids is to be deflected into a great power-canal.
314 M. (1.) Cornwall {Rossmore Ho., Balmoral, Duquette, $ 11/2-2),
a town of 6704 inhab., at the foot of the Long Sault Rapids. — The
boundary between the United States and Canada bends away from the
river here, and the Indian village of St. Regis, almost opposite Corn-
wall, is in the Province of Quebec. The Adirondack Mts. (p. 104) are
now visible to the right.
The steamer now steers across the river to Stanley Island (Algon-
quin Hotel). — Below this point we traverse the expansion of the
river named Lake St. Francis, 28 M. long and 5-7 M. wide. Both
banks are in Quebec.
At (346 M.) Coteau Landing the river is crossed by a railway
swing-bridge (comp. Baedeker's Canada). [Stanley Island and Coteau
Lauding may be omitted if the steamer is late.] We now enter a
series of rapids which follow each other at short intervals, with a
combined length of about 11 M.: Coteau Rapid, Cedar Rapid, Split
Rock Rapid, and the * Cascades. These are avoided, in going up-
stream, by the Soulanges Canal, 14 M. long, with four locks (lock-
age, 82 V2 ft.). The large Roman Catholic churches of the villages
that line the banks are now very conspicuous.
359 M. (r.) Beauhamois, at the foot of this series of rapids, lies
opposite the mouth of the Ottawa River, which enters the St. Lawrence
by two channels, enclosing the island of Perrot. The vUlage of
Sie. Anne, on theE. bank of the E. branch, is the scene of Tom Moore's
weU-known 'Canadian Boat Song'. — The Lake St. Louis, which
we now traverse, is 12-15 M. long.
375 M. (1.) Lachine (Harvey Ho., $ lV2-*2) lies at the head of
the famed *Lachine Eapids, the shortest (3 M.) but most violent
of all, forming an exciting and dramatic close to our voyage. The
rapids begin just below the fine bridge of the Canadian Pacific Rail-
way. The Lachine Canal, for the use of vessels going upstream, is
156 Route 16. NEWARK.
8Y2 M. long and has five locks, affording a rise of 45 ft. Soon after
leaving the rapids we pass nnder the *Victoria Jubilee Bridge. To
the left lies —
389 M. Montreal (see Baedeker s Can,ada).
16. From New York to Philadelphia.
a. ViS, Pennsylvania Railroad.
90 M. Bail WAT in 2V4-2V2 hra. (fare $21/4; parlor-car 50 c). The huge
railway-station is in Jersey City (p. 10; ferriea from 23rd St., Desbrossea St.,
Cortlandt St., and Brooklyn; river-tunnel, see p. 37).
Jersey City., see p. 73. The train runs to the W. to (9 M.) Newark
{Continental., $2i/2-'i)i * prosperons city on the Passaic, with (1905)
283,289 inhab., handsome chnrehes, pleasant parks, large breweries,
and extensive mannfactures of jewelry, iron goods, celluloid, and
leather (value in 1900, $ 127,000,000). One of the most notable
buildings in the city is the office of the Prudential Insurance Co.,
designed by Geo. B. Post, with interior decorations by Blashfield
and Siddons Mowbray. The Essex County Court House has good
mural decorations by Blashfield, Walker, Cox, Maynard, Pyle, Turner,
Millet, and Low. Newark was the birthplace of Aaron Burr (1756-
1836). — 14 M. Elizabeth (Burkely Hotel, $ 270, a ^ell laid-
out city with (1906) 60,509 inhab. (p. 157). — I9V2M. Rahway,
with (1905) 8649 inhab. and considerable trade and mannfactures.
— 24 M. Menlo Park^ the former home of Thomas A. Edison (p. 140),
the 'Wizard of Menlo Park'. — 31 M. New Brunswick [Mansion Ho.,
Palmer Ho., $ 2-3), on the Raritan, a manufacturing city of (1905)
23,133 inhab., is the site of Rutgers College (seen to the right), a
well-known institution of the Dutch Reformed Church, chartered in
1766 (260 students). In entering the city we cross a bridge over the
river, the Delaware ^' Raritan Canal, and the road. — 41 M. Monmouth
Junction (;p. 177). Beyond (46 M.) Plainshoro, to the right, we see
the Walker-Gordon Laboratory Farm. — 47 M. Princeton Junction,
for the branch to (3 M.) Princeton (*Princeton Inn, $ 4 ; The Nassau,
$ 21/2), witli (1905) 6029 inhabitants. Princeton was the home of
the late President Cleveland (d. 1908).
Princeton University, formerly The College of New Jersey, founded at
Elizabeth (see above) in 1746 and transferred to Princeton in 1757, ranks
high among the American universities and is attended by about 13()0
students. The university buildinga, among the chief of w^hich are Nasynu
Hall.. Alexander Hall, Marquand Chapel, the John C Green School of Scien<x,
the Laboratories, the Library (220,000 vola.), Blair Hall, Little Hall, and the
Gymnasium, stand in a beautiful tree-ahaded 'campus', 225 acres in extent.
The last three buildings, situated on the W. margin of the campus, are
among the finest examples of the collegiate Gothic style in Ajmerica. The
Continental Congress sat at Nassau Hall from June 16th to Nov. 4th, 1783,
and here Washington received the nation's thanks for hia successful conduct
of the Revolution. In the campus is a reproduction of the famous sun-
dial at Corpus Christi College, Oxford. The boating lake (BVz M. long)
was created at the expense of Mr. Andrew Carnegie by damming up the
stream that flows past the university. The preceptorial system introduced
V
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— 24 M. Plainfield {^Truell Inn, Truell Court, from $3;
Truell Halt
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e* n / ' . «<» T3 ,\-^- >f <f^StonA:E(u
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stream tliat flows past' the. uIlive^•8it5^ The preceptorial system introduced
TRENTON. 16. Route. 157
at Princeton by President Woodrow Wilson is an interesting innovation
in American college life. — The Princeton Theological Seminary (Pres-
byterian), a separate institution, bas about 170 students. — Tbe Battle of
Princeton (Jan. 3rd, 1777; p. xxx), in which Washington defeated the
British, was one of the most important in the early part of the Revolutionary
struggle. — At Rocky Hill, 4 M. to the N. of Princeton, is the house
where Washington wrote his Farewell Address to the Army in 1783, now
preserved as a historical museum (adm. 25 c).
"We now descend towards the Delaware. — 57 M. Trenton
{Windsor, $ 2V2-3, R. from $ 1; Trenton, $ 2-3), the capital of New
Jersey, on the Delaware, at the head of naTigation. Pop. (1905)
84,180. Its chief industrial product is pottery, the material for
which is found on the spot (total value of manufactures in 1900,
$ 31,645,695). The State House is a handsome edifice overlooking
the river; the State Lunatic Asylum and Penitentiary are large
huildings. In Cadwalader Park is a statue of John A. Boebling
(p. 40), by W. Couper (1908). The Delaware ^ Raritan Canal inter-
sects the city.
On Dec. 26th, 1776, Washington crossed the Delaware here and sur-
prised and routed the Hessians under Rail, following up this success by
the battle of Jan. 2nd, 1777, in which he maintained his ground against
Lord Cornwallis. — Trenton is the junction of a branch to Maimnka Chunk
and the Delaware Water Oap (see R. 12 c).
Bordentown (Bordentown Ho., $172), about 5 M. to the S. of Trenton,
was from 1815 till 1832 the home of Joseph Bonaparte, ex-king of Spain
whose fine park is still shown. *
Crossing the Delaware, we now enter the 'Keystone State' of
Pennsylvania and traverse a rich farming country. To the right is
the canal. At (58 M.) Morrisville the French general Moreau lived
from 1806 to 1813, in a house built by Robert Morris, the 'banker
of the Revolution'. QH M. Bristol. As we approach Philadelphia we
leave the Delaware and traverse a district full of mills, manufac-
tories, and artizans' dwellings. 81 M. FranJcford is the junction of
the 'bridge' trains to Atlantic City (see p. 180). 85 M. North Phila-
delphia (formerly Germantown Junction\
As we enter Philadelphia we cross and recross the Schuylkill
('Skoolkin'). *Views of the city and Farrmount Park (p. 173).
90 M. Philadelphia (Broad Street Station), see p. 158.
b. Via Reading System.
(Bound Brook Route.)
90 M. Central R. R. of New Jersey and Philadelphia & Reading
R. R. in 2 hrs. (fares as at p. 156). The route is much the same as
the Penna. R. R. — Station in Jersey City (see p. 10; ferries from W.
23rd St. and Liberty St.).
Jersey City, see p. 73. The train crosses Newark Bay by a bridge
2M. long, with views of Newark (p. 156) to the right and Staten Is-
land (p. 72) to the left 10 M. Elizalethport, the junction of branches
to Newark and to the New Jersey seaside-resorts (R. 18), is the
seat of the Singer Sewing Machine Co. 11^/2 M. Elizabeth (p. 156).
— 24 M. Plainfield (^Truell Inn, Truell Court, from $ 3; Truell Hall
158 Route 17. PHILADELPHIA.
from $21/2; Kensington, $2), a pleasant residential town witli
(1905) 18,468 inhabitants. On the Orange Hills, to the right, is
Washington's Rock, whence that general is said to have observed the
movements of the British troops. — At (30 M.) Bound Brook, on
the Raritan, we pass on to the tracks of the Philadelphia if" Reading
R.R. In 1777 the Americans were defeated here by Lord Cornwallis.
The line now traverses corn-fields and orchards. 41 M. Belle Mead,
with famous stock-farms. — From (57 M.) Trenton Junction a short
line rnns to (4 M.) Trenton (p. 157). Our line crosses the Delaware
by a fine bridge (views) at (60 M.) Yardley. 67 M. Langhorne, a
summer- resort of the Philadelphians ; 79 M. JcnfemfotiJn (Beech wood
Inn, from $ 21/2), the junction for Bethlehem (p. 182). At (85 M.)
Wayne Junction (pp. 175, 182) the New York &Washington expresses
of the B. & 0. R. R. diverge to the right, crossing the Schuylkill
(p. 157) twice, traversing Fairmount Park (p. 173), and running
into the Baltimore & Ohio Station (see below).
90 M. Philadelphia (Reading Terminal Station ; see below).
17. Philadelphia.
Railway Stations. Broad Street Station (Pl.F, 6; restaurant), facing the
City Hall, for the trains of the Penna. R. R. to Xew York, Boston, Baltimore,
Washington, Pittsburg, Chicago, Gettysburg, Atlantic City, Harrisburg,
St. Louis, and numerous local lines ; Reading Terminal Station (PI. F, 6 ;
*Restaurant), of the Philadelphia and Reading R.R., for New York (R. lob),
Gettysburg, Lehigh Valley, etc.; Baltimore & Ohio Station (PI. E, 6; restaur-
ant), cor. of Chestnut St. and 24th St., forWashington, the West, etc.; West
Philadelphia Station (PI. D, 6), a secondary station of the Penna. R. R. for
all lines (some of the trains between Xew York and the South touch here
onlv and do not run into the Broad St. Station) ; West Jersey R. R. Station
(PI." I, 6, 7), Camden, reached by ferry from Market St. (see PI. H, I, 6), for
Cape May, Atlantic City, and the Amboy Division of the Penna. R. R. ;
Atlantic City R. R. Station (PL I, 8), Camden (ferry from Chestnut St. or
South St.), for Atlantic City, Cape May, etc. — Tramways run from all
these stations or ferries to the chief centres of the city. Cais, see p. 159.
Hotels. *Bellevue-Stkatfoed (PL a; F, 6), Broad and Walnut Sts.,
a huge edifice resembling the Waldorf-Astoria at New York and under
the same management, R. from 3 2% (tennis courts, skating-rink, and
solarium on the roof); Stenton (PL 1; F, 7), Broad St., cor. Spruce St.,
R. from $ 11/2; St. James, Walnut and 13th Sts. (PL F, 6), $4-6, R. from
S 2; Majestic (PL p; F, 4), at the cor. of Broad St. and Girard Ave., R.
from $ 2; Walton (PL k; F, 6, 7), a large house at the cor. of Broad
and Locust Sts., R. from $ IV2, well spoken of; Rittenhocse (PL b; E, 6),
Chestnut St., near 22nd St., $ 3V2-4, R. S 1V2-2; Colonnade (PL d; F, 6),
Chestnut and 15th Sts., from $ 31/2, R. from $ 11/2; Aldine (PL e; E, 6),
1910 Chestnut St., a good family hotel, $31/2-6, R. $ 1-5; Lorraine
(PL n; F, 4), cor. N. Broad St. and Fairmount Ave., at some distance from
the centre of the citv, from $ 3, R. from $ IV2; Normandie, Chestnut
and 36th Sts. (PL C, 6), from $31/2; Continental (PL f; G, 6), 9th and
Chestnut Sts., $2V2-4. R. from $1; Green's (PL h; G, 6), 8th and Chest-
nut Sts., R. $ 1-21/2; Bingham (PL o; F. G, 6), llth & Market Sts., $ 21/2, R.
from $ 1; Windsor (PL c; F, 6), 1225 Filbert St., from $2, R. from 51;
Dooner's, 27 S. 10th St., R. $ 1-2 (men onlv), very fair; Hanover (PL g; F, 6),
12th and Arch Sts., from $ 21/2, R. from' $ 1; Vendig (PL m; F, 6), 12th
and Market Sts., R. $ I-21/2 (men only).
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Park Theatre (PI. F, 4), Broad St., cor. of Fairmount Ave. (2200 seats);
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Practical Notes. PHILADELPHIA. 17. Route. 159
Kestaurants. Bellevue-Siratford Hotel (p. 158), somewhat expensive;
Kugler, 1412 Chestnut St. (no half-portions); Caf6 Edouard, Walnut Si., cor.
13th St. ; Majestic Hotel (p. 158), D. $ IV4, in the so-called 'Gmtto' $ 1; Caf&
VAiglon, KW. cor. of 15th and Chestnut Sts. ; Hotel Walton Cafi., see p. 158;
Colonnade Hotel, see p. 158; Blank, 1024 Chestnut St., D. S 1; AcUr'g Quality
Shop, Chestnut St., cor. 12th St., D. $ ^/t-i-; Booner, see p. 15S; Green, see
p. 15'^, D. 50 c. ; Soula's Ratskeller, in the basement of the Betz Building
(p. 162), City Hall Square, D. (from 12 to 3) 50 c. ; Soulas, 5th St., above
Chestnut St.', for men ; Bingham Hotel, see p. 158; Boothby, 1233 Chestnut St.,
near 13th St. (oysters); Partridge, 15 N. 8th St.; Augustin <& Baptists,
255 S. 15th St.; Wanamakers, see p. 162; Childs' Dairy Restaurants (comp.
p. 14), Chestnut St., Nos. 706, 1208, 1435, cor. of Idth St., etc.; Dennett's
Lunch Rooms, 529 Chestnut St., 13 S. 9th St., and 122 & 1309 Market St. (low
prices); Bourse Restaurant, see p. 164; Ladies' Depository, 114 S. 17th St.;
Railwau Restaurants, see p. 153 ; Automatic Cafi, 818 Chestnut St., 909 Market
St., (fe 109 S. Juniper St.
Tramways (Street Gars). Electric Cars traverse ail the principal streets
(fare 5 c, exchange-tickets 8 c). Cars run to the E. on Columbia Ave.,
Jefferson, Girard Ave., Wallace, Green, Spring Garden, Callowhill, Race,
Arch, Filbert, Market, Chestnut, Spruce, and Lombard Streets; to the W.
on Columbia Ave., Master, Girard Ave-, Poplar, Fairmount Ave., Spring
Garden, Vine, Arch, Market, Walnut, Pine, and South Streets ; to the N.
on 3rd, 5th, 8th, 9th, Uth, 13th, 16th, 18th, 19th, and 23rd Streets ; to the
S. on 2nd, 4th, 6th, Tth, IGth, 12th, 15th, 17th, 19th, 20th, and 23rd Streets.
— Motor Omnibuses (5 c) run (ca. every 10 min.) up S. and N. Bro d St.
to Diamond St. (PI, F, 2), then along it to Fairmount Park (entrance
at the cor. of Dauphin and N. 33rd Sts.). — The Seeing Philadelphia
Automobiles (comp. p. 19) start at Keith's Vaudeville Theatre (see below)
at 10 a.m., 2 p.m., and 4 p.m. (fare $ 1). The trip takes 2 hrs.
Subway and Elevated Railroad, The Subway of the Philadelphia Rapid
Transit Co. runs from Market St. Ferry (PI. H, 6) beneath Market St. to
the Schuylkill River at 24th St. (PI. E, 6). From this point it is con-
tinued by an Elevated Railroad, following the line of Market St. to
70th St. (beyond PI. A, 6), where connection is made by tramway with
Ardmore, Bryn Mawr, West Chester, and other near-by places. Trains
run ev^ery 5-10 min. (fare 5 c).
Cabs. — (1). Railway Service. Hansoms (1-2 pers.) 1^/2 M., 25 c, each
1 M. addit. 15 c; per hr. 65 c, each addit. V4 hr. 20 c.; no trunks carried.
Four-wheelers: 1-2 pers., 40c.. 20c., 75c., 20c.; each addit. pers. 10 c. ; each
trunk 25c., small article carried outside 10c. — (2). City Service. Carriages
(two horses): 1 pers., 1 M. 75c., 2 pers. $1.25, each addit. pers. 25c.; 2 M.,
$ 1.25, $ 1.75, 25c. ; each 1 M. addit,, each pers. 50c. ; per hr., 1-2 pers,,
$ 1.50, each pers. addit. 25 c. One trunk or valise free, each extra article
of luggage 6c. — (3). Toxicals for 1-4 pers., V2 M. 30 c., each V4 M. addit.
10 c. ; waiting 10c. for each 6 min.; each package carried outside 20c.
Ferries cross the Delaware to Camden (p. 175) from Market, Vine,
South, Chestnut, and Shackamaxon Sts. (3 c.), and to Gloucester (p. 175)
from South St. (10 c).
Steamers. Steamers ascend the Delaware to BurUngton and other
points. Steamers also ply to Liverpool, London, Antwerp, Hamburg, New York,
Boston, Baltimore, Savannah, Charleston, Florida, Jamaica, etc.
Theatres. Academy of Mu^ic (Pi. F, 7), Broad St., cor. of Locust St.
(2900 seats), used for operas (grand opera once a week in the season),
concerts, balls, etc.; Hammer^tein Opera House (PI. F, 4; 4000 seats), cor. of
N. Broad and Poplar Sts. ; Chestnut Street Opera House (PI. G, 6), 1023 Chest-
nut St.; Chestnut Street Theatre (Pl.F, 6), 1211 Chestnut St.; Lyric Theatre,
Adelphi Theatre, side by side in ¥. Broad St., cor, of Cherrj^ St. (PJ. F, 5, 6);
Broad St. Theatre (PI. F, 7), near Locust St. ; Walnut St. Theatre (oldest in
America; 1808), cor. Walnut and 9th Sts. (PI G, 6); Garrick (PI. F, 6),
Che.stuut St., cor. Juniper St. ; KeUKs Vaudeville Theatre (PI. F, 6), 1 1 16 Chest-
nut St.; Forrest Theatre (PI. F, 6), S. Broad St., cor. Sansom St.; German
Theatre, cor. of Franklin St. and Girard Ave. (PI. G, 4), for German plays;
Park Theatre (PI. F, 4), Broad St., cor. of Fairmount Ave. (2200 seats);
160 Route 17. PHILADELPHIA. History.
Grand Opera Houae (PI. F, 3), N. Broad St., cor. of Montgomery Ave. ;
Eleventh Street Opera House (PI. F, 6), 11th St., above Chestnut St. (minstrel
entertainments); Kensington Theatre^ cor. E. Norris St. and Frankford Ave.
(PI. H, 2). — Zoological Garden, see p. 175.
Clubs. Philadelphia, N.W. cor. 13th and Walnut Sta. ; Rittenhouse, 1811
Walnut St. ; University, 1510 Walnut 8t. 5 Union League (PI. F, 6), Broad St.,
cor. of Sansom St. ; City, 1418 Walnut St. ; Markham, 1424 Walnut St. ; Lawyers,
1507 Walnut St. ; Mercantile Club (PI. F, 3; p. 169), 1422 X. Broad St., cor. of
Master St.; Racket Club (PI. F, 6), 16th St., below Walnut St.; Art Club,
see p. 170. — The well-known dinners of the Clover Club are held in the
Bellevue-Stratford Hotel. — Philadelphia is the American headquarters
of Cricket. The chief clubs are the Belmont, near 49th St. Station; Merion,
at Ardmore; Philadelphia, near St. Martin's; Oermantown, at Manheim, near
Queen Lane Station.
Tourist Agents. Raymond dt Whitcomb Co., 1(X)5 Chestnut St.; Thos.
Cook dt Son, 82S Chestnut St.
Post Office (Pj. G, 6; p. 163), cor. of Chestnut and 9th Sts.
Exhibitions of Art. Academy of Fine Arts, see p. 166; Memorial Hall,
F;iirmount Park, see p. 174; Art Club, see p. 170. The private collections of
Mr. TFicfener (good examples of Van Dyck, etc.), Jfr. Elkins, anAMr. Johnson,
ranking among the finest in the country, can at present be seen by
private introduction only, but there is a scheme afoot to unite them in
a large new building open to the public.
Consuls. British, Mr. W. Powell, I'Xl S. 4th St. ; German, Mr. W. Hagen.
PhiladelpJiia (the 'Quaker City'), the third city of the United
States in extent and population (1,293,700 inhab. in 1900), lies
mainly upon a broad plain between the Delaware and the Schuylkill,
96 M. from the Atlantic Ocean. It Is 22 M. long from N. to S. and
5-10 M. wide, covering 130 sq. M., or a little more than the parlia-
mentary district of London, though, of course, not so completely
built over. It probably contains a larger proportion of small houses
than any other large city in the world (4.5 inhab. per house; New
York ca. 16) and is sometimes called the 'City of Homes'. It is laid
out with chessboard regularity (see p. 161). The characteristic
Philadelphia house is a two-storied or three -storied structure of
red pressed brick, with white marble steps. The two rivers give it
about 30 M. of water-front for docks and wharfage, and it is the
headquarters of two of the greatest American railways (the Penn-
sylvania and the Reading). Its commerce by sea and land is very
large, and as a manufacturing centre it ranks next to New York and
Chicago. The great wholesale business-thoroughfare is Market
Street, running E. and W. between the two rivers, while Chest-
nut Street, parallel with it on the S., contains the finest shops,
many of the newspaper- offices, etc. Broad Street is the chief street
running N. and S. Among the most fashionable residence-quarters
are Rittenhouse Square and the W. parts of Walnut, Locust, Spruce,
and Pine Streets. Eighth Street is the great district for cheap shops.
History. Philadelphia, the 'City of Brotherly Love' or 'Quaker City',
was founded in 1G82 by a Quaker colony under William Penn (1644-1718),
who purchased the site from its Indian owners. [A Swedish colony, how-
ever, settled on the Delaware, a little lower down, in 1638 (comp. p. 171),
and many ofPenn's original patentees were descendants of these settlers.]
The city attracted large numbers of immigrants and received its charter
from Penn in ITOl, when it had about 4500 inhabitants. From about that
City Ball. PHILADELPHIA. 17. Route. 161
time to the 19th century it rivalled Boston as the leading city of the
country, and it was the scene of the most important ofHcial steps in the
Revolution. The first Continental Congress assembled here in 1774; the
Declaration of Independence was signed here on July 4th, 1776; the Con-
stitution of the United States was drawn up and promulp;ated here in 1787; the
first President of the United States resided here; and here Congress assem-
bled till 1797. From Sept., 1777, to June, 1778, the city was in the posses-
sion of the British. During the 19th century its history was one of quiet
and rapid growth. In 1876 Philadelphia was the scene of the Centennial
Exhibition^ held in honour of the lOOth anniversary of the Declaration of
Independence. — After William Penn, the man whose name is most in-
timately associated with Philadelphia is Benjamin Franklin (pp. 163, 165,
171), who came here in 1723 at the age of eighteen. The Friends or
Quakers still form a very important element in Philadelphia, many of the
oldest, wealthiest, and most esteemed families belongini; to this sect. —
The so-called Mummers'' Parade or Parade of the New Year Shooters., celebrated
in the streets on Jan. 1st, is an interesting and in many ways a unique
spectacle.
Industry and Commerce. The value of the manufactures of Phila-
delphia in 1900 was $603,500,000 (120,700,000/.), the number of hands em-
ployed being 247,000. The chief products are machinery, locomotives, iron
wares, ships, carpets, woollen and cotton goods, leather, sugar, drugs, and
chemicals. The value of its exports in 1907 was $ 106,570,527, tliat of its
imports $ 80,693,327. In ia07 the port was entered and cleared by 2538
sea-going vessels, with an aggregate tonnage of 4,775,372, and by 8895
coasting vessels of 7,214,995 tons.
Streets. In planning his city Penn laid out two wide thoroughfares
crossing it at right angles (High, now Market St., and Hroad St.), with
an open space at their intersection and four other -tquares (Washington,
Franklin, Logan, and Rittenhouse Squares) near the outer corners of his
plan. The other streets were all laid out parallel to the two above-named,
and this rule has also been observed in the subsequent extensions of the
city. Those parallel to Market St. have names (often taken from trees),
while those parallel with Broad St. are numbered (Front, Second, etc.)-
The prefixes North and South distinguish respectively the numbered streets
to the N. and S. of Jlarket St. The houses on the N. or E. side of the
street have odd numbers, and those on the S. or W. side even numbers.
The numbers of the E. and W. streets begin at the Delaware, those of the
N. and S. streets at Market St. With each new block a new century of
numbers begins, although there are seldom more than 40 numbers in a
block. With this system a very slight familiarity with the city enables
one to find his way to any house. Thus, e.g., 1521 Arch St. must be
between N. 15th St. and N. lUth St.
In City Hall Square (PI. F, 6), at the intersection of Broad
St. and Market St., in the centre of the city, stands City Hall
(PI. F, 6), generally known as the Public Buildings, a tasteless pile
with a granite basement -story and white marble superstructure,
begun in 1874. It is 486 ft. long from N. to S. and 470 ft. in breadth,
covering a greater area (472 acres) than any other building in the
United States (Capitol at Washington, 31/2 acres; St. Peter's at
Rome, 45/p acres; Palais de Justice at Brussels, 6I/4 acres). The
Tower, 510 ft. high, is surmounted by a statue of William Penn,
37 ft. in height. The stylo of the building is modified French
Renaissance; the architect was John McArthur Jr. Its cost, including
the furnishing, was about $25,000,000. Visitors may ascend to the
roof (elevators), which commands an extensive view; a special per-t
mit (obtained in Room 113) is necessary for the tower.
162 Route 17. PHILADELPHIA. Chestnut Street.
The building contains 750 rooms. The N. side is devoted to the Mayor^s
Office., the Council Chamber, and other offices of the municipal government.
The S. and W. sides contain the Supreme Court of Pennsylvania and other
courts. In a room on the first floor is a Statue of Washington by Bailly,
formerly in front of Independence Hall (p. 163).
The broad pavement round the City Hall is adorned with statnes
of Gtn. Reynolds (1820-63), Gen. McClellan (1826-85J, Stephen
Girardij). 169), John C. ^wZKfi (1824-1902), Presidtnt McKinley
(1843-1901), and Joseph Leidy (1823-91), the naturalist, and with
the 'Pilgrim' by Saint-Gaudens, a somewhat altered reproduction
of his 'Puritan' (p. 240).
On the W. side of City Hall Sq., opposite the City Hall, is the
enormous * Broad Street Station (PI. F, 6) of the Penna. Railroad.
The train-shed has a span of 304 ft. The waiting-room contains a
large allegorical relief, while one wall is covered with a mammoth
railway map of the United States. Adjacent is the Arcade Building j
connected with the station by an overhead bridge over Market St. —
On the N. side of the square, at the comer of Broad St. and Filbert
St., is the *Masonic Temple (PI. F, 6), a huge granite structure
with a tower, 250 ft. high, and an elaborately carved Norman porch.
The lodge-rooms are finished in accordance with seven different
styles of architecture (Egyptian, Ionic, Corinthian, Norman, Gothic,
Renaissance, and Oriental). — On the E. side of the square, occu-
pying the block bounded by the square, Market St., 13th St., and
Chestnut St., is Wanamakefs Store (PI. F, 6), the Bon Marche or
Whiteley's of Philadelphia, with 4500 employees (restaurant). —
On the S. side of the square is the Betz Building (P1.F,6), with heads
of the Presidents of the United States in the bronze cornice above
the third-story windows.
*Chestnxjt Street (PL A-H, 6) is the chief street of Philadelphia,
containing many of the handsomest and most interesting buildings;
and we now follow it towards the Delaware (E. or left). The S.
side pavement is the fashionable promenade of the Quaker City. To
the left, at the corner of Broad St. and adjoining the Betz Building
(see above) on the S., is the Franklin National Bank (PL F, 6:
adjoined by the Mint Arcade), while to the right rises the fine of-
fice of the Real Estate Trust Co. At the corner of 12th St. (left) is
the tall Commonwealth Trust Building, and at the corner of 10th
St., on the same side, is the New York Mutual Life Insurance Co.
At 1217 Chestnut St. are the temporary headquarters of the Free
Library of Philadelphia (280,000 vols.), which has nineteen branches
in different parts of the city. Mr. Carnegie has given a sum of
$ 1,500,000 for the erection of thirty branch buildings.
In i2th St., to the N., is the William Penn Charter School, founded in
1689. In 10th St., also to the N., is the Mercantile Library (PI. G,6), with
210,000 vols, and a free reading-room (9-10).
Between iOth and 9th Sts., to the left, are the Mortgage Trust
Co., the Penn Mutual Life Building (with an elaborate facade), and
the Office of the '■Record'. At the corner of 9th St., extending on the N.
Independence Hall. PHILADELPHIA. 17. Route. 163
to Market St., is the Post Office (PL G, 6), a large granite building
in the Renaissance style, erected at a cost of $5,000,000. It also
contains the United States Courts and the offices of various Federal
officials. In front of the Post Office is a colossal seated figure of Ben-
jamin Franklin (1706-90), hy John J. Boyle. Between 8th and
7th Sts. (left) is the ornamented front of the Union Trust Co. This
neighbourhood contains several newspaper-offices. At the corner of
6th St., on the Public Ledger Building., is another statue of Franklin.
In 7th St., a little to tlie N. of Cliestnut St., is the Franklin Institute
(PI. Gr, 6), with a library, musenm, and lecture-hall.
We now reach, on the right, between 5th and 6th Sts., *Independ-
ence Hall (PL G, 6), or the old State Rouse (open on week-days,
9-4), a modest brick edifice (1732-35), which is in some respects
the most interesting building in the United States. The steeple was
added afterwards. Here the Continental Congress met during the
American Revolution (1775-81), and here, on July 4:th, 1776, the
Declaration of Independence was adopted. In 1897-98 the whole
building was restored as far as possible to its original condition.
Passing through the door in the centre, we first enter (right) the State
Supreme Court or West Room, containing the portraits of various Chief Justices.
To the left is the East Room or Independence Sail proper, the actual
scene of the deliberations of those statesmen of whom William Pitt wrote :
'I must declare that in all my reading and observation, for solidity of
reasoning, force of sagacity, and wisdom of conclusion, under such a
complication of difficult circumstances, no body of men could stand before
the National Congress of Philadelphia.'' With the exception of a new
flooring, the room is substantially in the same state as when the Congress
sat, and the old furniture has been replaced in it, including the table on
which the Declaration of Independence was signed. On the back of the
chair of the President of the Congress (John Hancock) is the emblem of
which Franklin said that he had often wondered, before the success of the
Revolution was assured, whether it was the rising or the setting sun. On
the E. wall hangs a facsimile of the Declaration of Independence (original
at Washington, see p. 223). Also on the walls are portraits of Washington
(by Peale) and of nearly all the signers of the Declaration.
On the upper floor we first enter a Room containing portraits, the ori-
ginal Charter of Philadelphia (1701), a piece of the Penn Treaty Elm (comp.
p. 171), and a picture of his wampum belt. — The Banqueting Ball con-
tains the sofa and church-pew of George Washington, two chairs of Wm.
Penn, a painting of Penn's Treaty with the Indians, by B. West, and portraits
of Martha Washington, Key (author of 'The Star-Spangled Banner', pp. 165,
350), British sovereigns, Washington's generals, naval officers, and other
worthies of the Eevolutionary period. Part of the original floor- hoards are
shown under glass. — The Council Chamber or Governors'" Room contains
portraits of Revolutionary officers, American and foreign. — The South-East
iJoomhas portraits of the members of the Constitutional Convention of 1787.
In the small back-hall at the foot of the staircase, opposite the main
entrance, under glass, stands the famous ^Liberty Bell, the first bell rung
in the United States after the Declaration of Independence. It was after-
wards used on various occasions of national importance, but was cracked
in 1835, in tolling for the funeral of Chief Justice Marshall, and since 1843
has never been sounded. It was originally cast in England, but was recast
in Philadelphia. In the same room are portraits of Marshall, Penn, and
Washington. — On the walls of the Stairway are portraits of Lafayette,
Governor Hamilton, the Chevalier Gerard, Louis XVI., and George III.
The central part of the State House is connected by open arcades
restored to their original appearance) with two smaller wing - buildings ,
164 Route 17. PHILADELPHIA. Carpenters' HaU.
containing a National Museum of relics, such as books, posters, wood-cnts,
engravings, newspapers, costumes, models, views and plans of Philadelphia,
the 'Serpent Flag', and Ben. Franklin's lightning rod. Those in the W.
building illustrate the Colonial, those in the E. the Revolutionary Period.
Adjoining that to the W., at the corner of 6th St., is the old Congress
Eall, in which Washington was inaugurated in 1793 and Adams in 1797.
To theE., at the corner of 5th St., is the Old City Hall, dating from 1791
and occupied by the U. S. Supreme Court in 1791-1800. — Behind the State
House lies Independence Square, an open space four acres in extent, with
a statue of Commodore John Barry (1745-1803), 'Father of the American
Navy', by Murray (1907).
Opposite Independence HaU is tlie picturesqne gabled bnilding
of the Pennsylvania Company for Insurances on Lives.
In S. 5th St., just below Chestnut St., is the American Philosophical
Society, an outgrowth of the Junto Club, founded by Franklin in 1743.
It is the oldest learned society in the United States, and contains a library
of 70,000 vols, and many interesting relics.
Beyond 5tli St., CliestnTit St. is flanked on botli sides witli hand-
some banks and insurance-offices. At the corner of 5th St., to the
right, is the white maible Drexel Building (PI. Gr, 6). The roof,
to which visitors are admitted, commands an excellent view. Ad-
jacent is the Custom House (PI. G, 6), with a Doric portico, orig-
inally erected in 1819-24 for the United States Bank.
In 5th St., to the N. of Chestnut St., stands the Bourse (PI. G, 6), erected
in 1895, and containing the offices of the Board of Trade, the Commercial
Exchange, and other business organizations. The two lower stories are
a good example of the style of Francis I. Visitors are admitted to the
galleries flanking the huge glass-covered hall. There is a restaurant upstairs.
A lane diverging to the right between 4th and 3rd Sts., opposite the
Fidelity Trust Co., leads to ^Carpenters' Hall (PI. G, H, 6 ; open on
week-days, 9-3), where the First Colonial Congress assembled in 1774,
It contains the chairs nsed at the Congress, various historical relics,
and the inscription : 'Within these walls Henry, Hancock, and Adams
inspired the delegates of the colonies with nerve and sinew for the
toils of war.' — Chestnut St. ends at the Delaware River.
!No. 133 S. 2nd Street occupies the site of the 'Slate-roof House\ the
home of William Penn.
"Walnut Street (PI. A-H, 6) runs parallel to Chestnut St., one
block to the S. In this street, at the intersection of Dock St. and
3rd St., is the Stock Exchange (PI. H, 6), formerly the Merchants'
Exchange, with a semicircular portico facing the river (visitors ad-
mitted to the gallery, 10-3). Near it (in 3rd St.) is the Girard Bank,
built for the first U.S. Bank and long owned by. Stephen Girard
(p. 169). At 4th St. is the building of the Manhattan Insurance Co.
Three blocks to the S., at the corner of Pine St. and 3rd St., is St. Peter's
Church (PI. H, 7), dating from 1758-61 and little changed in appearance. The
brave Commodore Decatur (1779-1820) is buried in the old churchyard.
In an alley of 4th St., near Locust St., is Si. Joseph's Church (PI. G, 6),
rebuilt in 1830. A little farther to the S., on the W. side of 4th St., is
St. Mary's Church (PI. G, 7), the original Roman Catholic cathedral of
Philadelphia (1763). The churchyard contains the graves of various histor-
ical personages. — In Catherine St., near 4th St. (PL G, 7), is the Church
of the Evangelists, built in the Basilica style, with an interior elaborately
decorated in the early-Italian style. Over the door (inside) is a painting of
Charles I. of England. The neighbourhood is largely occupied by Italians.
Historical Society. PHILADELPHIA. 17. Route. 165
Between 6tli and 7tli Sts. Wahmt St. passes Washington Square
(PI. G, 6, 7; p. 161), with a great yariety of trees. At the N.W.
comer of Washington Square is the Philadelphia Saving Fund Society.
At the S.W. comer of Walnut and 10th Sts. is the Western Saving
Fund Society and at the N.W. corner is the Jefferson Medical College
(PL Gr, 6), with an anatomical mnsenm and a hospital. At the S.E.
corner of 11th St. is the office of the excellent Philadelphia Society
for Organizing Charity. At the N.W. corner of Walnut St. and
Juniper St., to the right, is the Witherspoon Building, with the
offices and historical museum of the Presbyterian Church (North).
Two blocks to the S. of Walnut St., bounded by Spruce, Pine, Sth,
and 9tli Sts., stands tbe Pennsylvania Hospital (PI. G-, 7), the oldest in the
country. It contains West's picture of 'Christ healing the sick", and in the
garden, towards Pine St., is a statue of William Penn. — ISo. 413 S. 10th St.,
the house in which Henry George (d. 1897) was born, has been fitted up as
a memorial 'single tax' library and reading-room. — At the corner of
Locust St. and 13th St., one block to the S. of Walnut St., stands the
new fire-proof building (1907-8) of the 'Historical Society of Pennsylvania
(PI. F, 7; open 10-6), founded in 1824, which contains highly interesting
historical relics, paintings, and autographs. Among the chief treasures
are a letter of President Lincoln (1864) and the play-bill of the theatre
oh the night he was assassinated; the Bradford Almanack of 1686, the
first book printed in the Middle States ; many other examples of Bradford,
Franklin, and other printers of the Middle States before ISOO; relics of
Washington, Jefferson, and Franklin; handbill printed at Charleston (1860),
announcing the dissolution of the Union •, William Penns Bible and razor ;
the original Instructions of Penn regarding Pennsylvania ; first copy of Poor
Richard's Almanack; one of the Stamp Act stamps; German Bible and other
works printed by Christopher Saur, including the First Bible printed in
America; the Tower Collection of Colonial Laws down to 1789; portraits
of Penn, Washington (by Stuart, Wertmiiller, Peale, Polk, and Wright),
Franklin, Morris, etc.; several portraits by Copley; relics of Robert Morris ;
the I^'ews of the Battle of Lexington, passed on to Philadelphia in the manner
of the 'Fiery Cross' (April 19-24th, 1775), with attestations of the persons
through whose hands it passed; letter of Washington; original MSS. of
'Home, Sweet Home' (p. 77) and 'The Star- Spangled Banner' (p. 204);
telescope of Paul Jones ; letters and will of John Brown (p. 351) ; cliairs that
belonged to Perm; and part of Franklin'' s Printing Press.
At the K.E. corner of Locust and 18th Sts. (PL F, 6) is the College
of Physicians, incorporated in 1787, with a fine medical library. The large
hall, in which the Anatomical Museum is displayed, contains a good chim-
ney-piece. [The corner-stone of the new College of Physicians was laid
in 1908 at the corner of 22nd & Ludlow Sts.]
At the corner of Locust St. and Juniper St. is Vat Academy of the Pro-
testant Episcopal Church, a well-equipped and well-managed day-school for
boys, founded in 1785. — The Philadelphia Library (PI. F, 6), also at the
corner of Locust St. and Juniper St., was founded by Dr. Franklin and
others in 1731 and contains 225,000 vols., a clock said to have belonged
to Cromwell, part of Franklin's electrical machine, and other relics.
Walnut St. now crosses Broad St., to the W. of which it consists
mainly of private residences. No. 1524 is the home of Br. S. Weir
Mitchell, the novelist. Between 18th and 19th Sts. we pass Ritten-
house Square (PI. E, 6, 7; p. 161), a fashionable residence- quarter.
"St. Mark's Church, Locust St., between 16th and 17th Sts., is a singularly
pure example of the early Decorated Grothic style. The 'Lady ChapeF,
with its silver altar, is a memorial of Mrs. Rodman Wanamaker.
166 Route 17. PHILADELPHIA. Academy of ArU.
Near the bridge at the Schuylkill River (PI. D, 6) are a flight
of steps descending to 24th St. and a covered walk leading to the
Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Station (PI. E, 6), in Chestnut St.
Following the latter street towards the E., we pass the First Uni-
tarian Church and the Swedenhorgian Church (cor. 22nd St.) on the
left, and the Lutheran Church of the Eoly Communion, on the right.
At the corner of Broad St. are the white marble building of the
*Girard Trust Co. (PI. F, 6), with a rotunda (1907; left) and the
tall Land Title Building (PI. F, 6; 14 stories; right).
We now again reach our starting-point at Broad St. (comp. p. 161).
North Broad Street (PI. F, 6-1), beginning on the N. side of City
Hall Square, a handsome street, 113 ft. wide, contains in its upper
portion many of the finest private residences in Philadelphia. To the
right, at the corner of Filbert St., is the Masonic Temple (see p. 162),
which is adjoined by the Arch Street Methodist Episcopal Church.
On the opposite side of the street are the tall buildings of the United
Gas Improvement Co. and the Fidelity Mutual Life Association. To
the right is the Odd Fellows'' Temple.
To the left, at the corner of Cherry St., is the Pennsylvania
Academy of the Fine Arts (PI. F, 6), a building in the Venetian
style of architecture (admission free; catalogue 25 c. ; Manager,
Mr. John E. D. Trask). The Academy was founded in 1805; its
first Director was C. W. Peale (1805-10). Besides its collections
it supports an important art-school (sending 15 students annually
to study in Europe), the lecture-hall ofwhich(groundfioor) is adorned
with effective decorations by the pupils. Its collections include
500 paiGtings, numerous sculptures, several hundred casts, and
50,000 engravings. The early American school is especially well
represented. Annual exhibitions of the works of living artists are
held here in winter. The letters prefixed to the number of the
pictures in the catalogue show the section to which the work belongs
(A = American, B = British, etc.).
The Staiewat and the Corridoks adjoining the head of it contain a
number of large historical and other canvasses, including examples of
AUston, Bouguereau^ Wiitkamp, West ('Death on the Pale Horse'), VeTiiet,
Bisbing, and Janssen. — Room A (S.E. corner-room) contains small paint-
ings belonging to the Temple Collection (see p. 167).
Gallery B (National Portrait Gallery). To the left, 107. C. W. Peale
Portrait of himself; twenty -two portraits by Gilbert Stuart, the largest
collection of this master's works ('140. Mrs. Blodgett; *15T. 'Lansdowne"'
Portrait of Washington; 149. President Madison; 151. President Monroe;
158. Washington); 105. Peale^ Francis Scott Key (p. 2U4); no number,
Duplessis, Ben. Franklin ; John Neagle, Pat Lvon at the forge ; 166. Thomas
Sully, Mrs. Kemble, 167. Eliza Leslie, 164.' Charles Kemble, 161. G. F.
Cooke as Richard III.; 65. Jnman, Lord JIacaulay; 40. W. E. Furness.,
R. W. Emerson; 50. /. McLure Hamilton, Richard Vaux; 510. Carolus-
Duran^ Mme. Modjeska; 49. /. McLure Eamilton, W. E. Gladstone in
Downing St. 5 131. John S. Sargent, Mr. & Mrs. John W. Field; Joseph Be
Camp, Dr. H. H. Furness ; C. W. Peale, Robert Morris.
The miscellaneous works in the next Room include the following :
424. Ribera (Spagnoletto), The Cid; 452. B. van der EeUt, Violinist; 430.
Schalcken, Henrietta van Haavens; J. McLure Eamilton, Card. Manning.
Academy of Arts. PHILADELPHIA. 17. Route. 167
Galleeies C <fe D contain a *Collection of paintings and sculptures be-
queathed by Mr. Henry C. Gibson (1896). — Galleky C. Left: 1008. Julei
Breton, Potato harvest; 1004. F. A. Bonheur, Landscape and cattle; 1028.
Diaz., The coming storm; 1009. Cabanel, Birth of Venus; 1017. Cowbet,
Great Oak of Ornans; 1094. ZoTwrtcow, Revelation ; 1038. Girdme, The Guar-
dian ; 1058. Meitsonier, Cavalier vpaiting an audience; 1021. Daubigny, View
on the Seine; 1086. Troyon. Crossing the ford; 1016. Corot, Landscape;
1032. Dupr4, Sea-piece; *1063. Millet, Return of the flock; 1020. Baubigny,
Landscape; 1010. Calame, Lake of Lucerne ; 1096. Zamacois, Contemplation;
1034. Fortuny, Council House, Granada; 1095. Zamacois, On the lookout. —
Gallekt D. Left: 1065. A. de Neuville, Surprise in the environs of Metz ; 1001.
A. Achenbach , Coast-scene ; 1064. Munkacsy, Bringing in the night-rovers ;
1039. Van Marcke, The herd ; 1025. Detaille, Charge of cuirassiers at Reichs-
hoflfen, 1870; 1027. Diaz, Fontainebleau ; 1068. Martin Rico. Venice; 1093.
Vibert, Calling the poU after pillage; 1043. H. Eanten, Interior, Copen-
hagen; 1046. Henner, Nymph; 104S. Jsabey, Departure of the Rouen dili-
gence; 1082. Alfred Stevens, In the country; 1018. Couture, The thorny
path; 1005. Eosa Bonheur, Highland sheep; 1015. F. J. Clays, Dead calm,
Coast of Holland; 1090. Van Marcke, Seeking shelter.
Galleet E. Modern European Works. 337. Richard Wilson, Falls of
Tivoli; 514. Fed. Faruffini, Csesar Borgia and Machiavelli; Griffens, Mar-
seillaise; Picknell, Road to Nice; 520. Hermans, Bal masque.
CoBEiDOB at the W. end of the building. 525. Unknown Artist, Lord
Baltimore, founder of the State of Maryland; 305. Cole, Stable interior;
613. Frank i)«?;enec*, Recumbent tomb-figure of Mrs. Duveneck (plaster cast;
original in the Protestant Cemetery, Florence)..
Rotunda. Sculptures ; 701. John Lough, Centaurs and Lapithse (cast from
original model); 913V2. Rodin, Recumbent figure; Wm. Rush, John Frazee,
Bronze busts of themselves (examples of the earliest American sculpture);
Houdin, Paul Jones (bronze); Chas. Qrafly, Bust, Daedalus. — The Coeeidob
to the right (S.) of the Rotunda also contains sculptures and casts, besides
a large painting by Snyders (433). — ' E. Coeeidor. No. 631. A. Saint- Gaudens,
Bust of Gen. Sherman; 625. Hiram Powers, Proserpine.
Galleet F. Temple (American) Collection. Among the best works here
(arranged in alphabetical order) are : 1. J ohnW. Alexander , Cafe; 3a. T. P. An-
shutz, Becky Sharp; 4. Cecilia Beaux, New England woman; *12. Be Forest
Brush, Mother and child; *15. Wm. M. Chase, Lady with white shawl; 28.
G. E. Davis, Brook; 34. Duveneck, Turkish page; 36. Thos. Eakins, Cello-
player; 53. Alex. Harrison, The wave; 59. Winslow Homer, Fox-hunt; 74a.
W. S. Kendall, Beatrice; 78. Koehler, The Holy-Day occupation; 90. Gari
Melchers, Skaters; 119. Chas. S. Pearce, Fantasie; 121. Wm. L. Picknell,
Marsh; 540. A. Struys, Forgotten; 173. Taimer, Nicodemus; 174. Tarbell,
The golden screen; 183a. J. H. Twachtman, Sailing in the mist; 184. B. Uhle,
Portrait; 189. R. W. Vonnoh, Companion of the studio, 190. November.
Galleeies G, H, & J are used for temporary exhibitions.
Print Room (groundfloor). Field Collection: 401. Bonifazio Veronese,
Last Supper; 410. Attributed to Benozzo Gozzoli, Virgin and Child; Prints
bequeathed by John S. Phillips.
To tlie right, between Cherry andRace Sts., Is the block containing
the Lyric and Adelphi Theatres [p. 159).
Race Street (PI. E-H, 5) leads to the left to Logan Square (PI. E, 5;
p. 161), on the E. side of which stands the Roman Catholic Cathedral
of SS. Peter & Paul (PL E, F, 5), a large edifice, with a Corinthian portico
and a dome 210 ft. high. The interior is adorned with mural paintings,
and over the high-altar is a Crucifixion by Brumidi. — On the S. side of
the square, at the corner of 19th St., is the Academy of Natural Sciences
(PI. E, 5, 6). The society was founded in 1812. Its museum (open free 9-5,
Sun. 1-5; entr. in 19th St.) contains extensive "Collections of Natural
History, among which may be specified the Morton Collection of Crania
(1200), the huge Collection of Shells (200,000 specimens), the Herbarium,
the Peruvian mummies, and the Ornithological Cabinet, which furnished
Audubon with many of his types. The library contains 50,000 volumes.
Baedekeb's United States. 4th Edit. 11
168 Bowie 77. PHILADELPHIA. United States Mint.
On the W. side of Broad St. , between Race and Vine Sts. , are
the Hahnemann College and Hospital (PI. F, 5), one of the chief
homoeopathic institutions of the kind. Beyond the First Regiment Ar-
moury (PI. F, 5) we cross above the subway of the Reading Railway.
To the right, at the comer of Spring Garden St., is the Spring Gar-
den Institute (PI. F, 5), for instruction in drawing, painting, and the
mechanic arts. Adjacent is the Apprentices' Library (50,000 vols.).
Opposite are the ^Baldwin Locomotive Works (PI. F, 5), a highly
interesting industrial establishment employing 11,000 men and
turning out six or seven locomotives daily (adm. after previous ap-
plication, supported by an introduction). At the crossing of Broad
and Spring Garden Sts. is a statue of Matthew W. Baldwin (1795-
1866), founder of the works.
Spbing Garden Street (PI. D-G, 5), a pleasant residence-street, leads to
the W. to (1 M.) the S. end of Fairmount Park (p. 173). On the S. side
of this street, between 16th and 17th Sts., stands the •United States Mint
(PL F, 5), a large granite and marble building in a simple, massive, and
imposing cJassical style, erected in 1900 at a cost of § 2,400,000 (open
free daily, 9-2, Sat. 9-11; visitors are shown round by guides, who do not
expect a gratuity). The Philadelphia Mint, established in 1792, is the parent
mint of the United States. The various processes of coining are interesting.
The total value of the pieces coined here from 1793 to 1906 was: gold
$ 1,162,288,888, silver $ 478,790,892, minor coins $ 41,585,405. The Mint
also does considerable coinage for the South and Central American Republics
and for the Philippines (85,958,280 pieces in 1908-7). In a room upstairs
is a ''Collection of American and other Coins. The most interesting are the
Selections in the central case, including the 'Widow's Mite' (No. 3116),
found among the ruins of the Temple at Jerusalem. — Opposite the Mint,
at the S.W. corner of 17th & Spring G-arden Sts., is the Spring Garden
Branch of the Free Library. — To the E. of Broad St., at the N.W. corner
of Spring Garden St. and 13th St., is the Philadelphia Mrmal School for
Girls. — The Assembly Hall of the German Society of Pennsylvania, farther
to the E., at the corner of Marshall St., is said to contain the best Ger-
man library in America (50,0(K) vols.).
A little farther on are the Boys^ Central High School (PI. F, 5 ;
left), an unusually large and handsome structure, and the Synagogue
Rodef Shalom (r.), in a Moorish style.
Fairmodnt Avenue (PL D-H, 4, 5), 1 M. from the City Hall, leads to the
left to (Vz M.) the "Eastern Penitentiary (PI. E, 4), a large and well-
managed prison (1100-1200 .inmates), rendered widely known by a somewhat
sensational passage in Dickens''s 'American Notes'' (adm. by ticket from
one of the Board of Inspectors). The penitentiary, which covers 11 acres
of ground, is built on the radiating plan, and is conducted on the so-
called 'individual' system, in which an attempt is made by discriminating
treatment to bring about a reform of the criminals. There is about
1 »varder to 30 prisoners (1 to 10 in similar English prisons); and most
European visitors will be struck with what may seem the unreasonable
comforts of the cells (many containing pictures, flowers, birds, etc.), the
abundant rations, and the large amount of liberty granted to the prisoners.
Knitting, carpentry, and the making of cigars, brushes, etc., are actively
carried on. Dickens's criminal served 12 sentences in the penitentiary and
was finally, at his own request, brought here to die. — Girard College
(p. 169) lies about 1/2 M. to the N.
Farther up Broad St. are numerous handsome private houses,
churches, and other edifices. At the N.W. corner of Broad St. and
Girard Ave. (p. 169) is the handsome Widener Maruion (PI. F, 4),
Girmd College. PHILADELPHIA. 17. Route. 169
recently presented to the city and nsed as a branch of the Free
Library (p. 165). Beyond Master St., to the left (No. 1424), is the
elaborate home of the Mercantile Club (PL F, 3), and beyond Oxford
St., on the same side, is the Century Wheelmen Club (PI. F, 3).
The Grace Baptist Temple (PI. F, 2) has accommodation for 6000
worshippers. Connected with this church is Temple University (3500
students), the lectures of which are so arranged that the students
may attend either in the morning, the afternoon, or the evening.
Opposite is Monument Cemetery (PL F, 2), and 3/^ M. farther out are
the Base Ball Grounds (PL F, 1). Beyond this Broad St. runs out to
Oermantown (p. 175), 6 M. from the City Hall.
Near Monument Cemetery (see above), at tlie corner of 18th St. and
Diamond St., is the *South Memorial Church of the Advocate (PI. E, 2), a
successful epsay by Mr Burns (1897) in the French Gothic style of which
Amiens Cathedral presents the best illustration. It is 165 ft. long, 105 ft.
wide (at the transept), and 106 ft. high. The fleche over the crossing is
165 ft. high. The interior is profusely adorned with carving, and has 65
stained-glass windows by Clayton & Bell. The vaulting is, unfortunately,
of wood only, painted to resemble stone.
GiKABD Avenue (PL A-H, 3, 4) mns to the W. from N. Broad St.
to (V2 M.) *Girard College (PL E, 3, 4), one of the richest and most
notable philanthropic institutions in the United States, founded in
1831 by Stephen Girard (1750-1831), a native of France, for the
education of poor white male orphans (adm. on previous application
to the Director or Secretary or at the office of the Girard Estate, 12th
St., to the N. of Chestnut St., but strangers are admitted without
this formality; no clergymen admitted). It now accommodates
1510 boys, and the value of Mr, Girard's bequest of $ 5,260,000
has increased to about $ 35,000,000 (7,000,000i.).
The "Main Building is a dignified structure in the Corinthian style
by T. U. Walter, resembling the Madeleine at Paris. In the vestibule are
a statue of Stephen Girard, by Geveloi, and his sarcophagus ; and a room
on the groundfloor contains several relics of him. The other buildings,
about a dozen in all, include school-rooms, dormitories, dining-halls (one
for 1200 boys), a swimming-bath, a technical institute, and a chapel- The
services in the last are conducted by laymen, as Mr. Girard's will forbids
the presence of a clergyman within the college enclosure. The Grounds,
which are 41 acres in extent, are lighted by seven electric masts, 125 ft.
high, and contain a monument to former pupils who fell in the Civil War.
Opposite Girard College are the Mary J. Drexel Home and the German
Hospital (PI. E, 4). To the N. of Girard College are the Women's Medical
College and Hospital (PI. E, 3). — In Stiles St., to the E., between 17th and
18th Sts., are the large Church of the Oesii and various R. C, institutions.
South Bboad Stkeet (PL F, 6-8) leads to the S. from City Hall
Square. Its intersection vnth Chestnut St., just to the S. of the City
Hall, is environed with tall office-buildings (comp. pp. 162, 166).
— To the right is the annex of the Land Title Building (p. 166,
319 ft. high), extending to Sansom St. Opposite (left) , adjoining
the Real Estate Trust Co. (p. 162), is the North American Building
(PL F, 6 ; 20 stories), named after the newspaper which occupies
11*
170 Route 17. PHILADELPHIA. Christ Church.
the upper five floors (fine view from the roof; free pass obtained on
the 16th floor). Also to the right, at the opposite comer of Sansom
St., stands the substantial bnilding of the Union League Club
(PI. F, 6), the chief Republican club of Pennsylvania (1950 mem-
bers). On the same side is the large Bellevue - Stratford Hotel
(p. 158). Farther on, to the right, is the *Art Club (PL F, 6), in
the Renaissance style, in which exhibitions of paintings, concerts,
and public lectures are held. At Locust St., to the right, is the
Academy of Music (p. J 59), while to the left are the Hotel Walton
(p: 168) and the Broad Street Theatre (p. 159). Lower down, to
the right, are the Horticultural Hall (PI. F, 7 ; flower-shows) and
the Beth-Eden Baptist Church. At the corner of Pine St. (r.) is the
* Pennsylvania School of Industrial Art (PI. F, 7), incorporated in
1876, with a special view to the development of the art-industries
of Pennsylvania. A characteristic feature is the Department of
"Weaving and Textile Design. The Industrial Museum|Hall (p. 174)
is connected with this excellent institution. — Below Pine St.,
Broad St, contains few important buildings. The visitor, however,
should go as far as the *Eidgway Library (PI. F, 8; open 9-5),
which stands to the left, between Christian and Carpentex Sts.,
nearly 1 M. from the City Hall. This handsome building was erected,
with a legacy of $ 1,500,000 left by Dr. Rush in 1869, as a branch
of the Philadelphia Library (p. 165), and contains 120,000 vols.,
including many rarities. Adjoining the main hall is the tomb of
the founder. — Broad St. ends, 4 M. from the City Hall, at League
Island Park, 300 acres in extent. League Island itself, in the Dela-
ware, contains a U. S. Navy Ytrd, among the chief objects of interest
in which are the U. S. ram 'Katahdin', some monitors used in the
Civil War, and a forty-ton crane. The new dry dock measures 750 ft.
by 134 ft.
Maeket Stkbet(P1.A-H,6), the chief wholesale business-thor-
oughfare of the city, contains little of interest to the visitor. A little
to the E. of City Hall Sq. it passes the Philadelphia & Beading
Bailway Station (PL F, 6), a tall Renaissance building, with a
train- shed little smaller than that of the Penna. R. R. (p. 162).
The department store of Gimbel Brothers (PL G, 6), on the S. side
of the street, between 8th and 9th Sts., is one of the largest in the
world. The Penn National Bank (PL G, 6), at the corner of S.
7th St., occupies the site of the house in which Jefferson wrote
the Declaration of Independence (comp. p. 163). The street ends at
the Delaware, in a busy quarter of wharves, railway-stations, etc.
In N. 2nd St., a block above Market St., is Christ Church (PL
H, 6 ; Epis.), erected in 1727-37, in the style of St. Martin's in the
Fields, London, on the site of an older church of 1695, and attended
by the Royal officers and early officials of the American Republic.
No. 239, Arch Street (PI. E-H, 6), a little to the N., between 2nd
and 3rd Sts., is the Hou^e in which the first American flag (13 stars
University. PHILADELPHIA. 17. Route. 171
and 13 stripes) was made by Betsy Ross (Mrs, John Ross) in 1777.
It is now owned by the city (^open free, 9-5). — At 5tli St. is tbe
Christ Church Burial Oround(P\. G, 6), with many interesting tombs.
A railed opening in the wall (in Arch St.) shows the flat tombstone
of Benjamin Franklin (1706-90) and his wife. Opposite, at the
S.W. corner of 5th St., Is the building which was originally the
meeting-house of the Free Quakers, referred to in Dr. Weir Mit-
chell's 'Hugh Wynne', with a tablet in the gable stating that it was
built in the year 8 'of the Empire'.
One of the most interesting historical buildings in Philadelphia is the
Old Swedes' Church or Church of the Gloria Dei (PI. H, 8 ; reached by 2nd
St. tramway), in Swanson St., near the Delaware end of Christian St.,
erected in 1700, on the site of an old wooden church of 1646 (comp. p. 160).
The descendants and successors of the Swedish founders ultimately joined
the American Episcopal Church in a body, and the services have long been
carried on in English (interesting tombstones). Adjacent is the Cooper's
Shop where the ladies of Philadelphia provided meals for the troops passing
S. during the war. In the neighbourhood is the huge SprecM<< Sugar Refinery.
At Shackamaxon, in Beach St., is the small Penn Treaty Park (PI. H, 4),
supposed to occupy the spot where Penn made his treaty with the Indians
in 1682, under an elm that has long since vanished (see p. 163; a compact,
in the words of Voltaire, 'never sworn to and never broken'). The island in
the river here is known as Petty or Treaty Island (PI. I, 4). — A little
farther to the N.E., at the foot of Ball St., are Cramp's Ship Building Yards
(PL I, 3), one of the chief American yards for the building of iron and
steel ships (U. S. war-vessels, etc. 5 pass necessary for visitors).
West Fhiladelpliia, the extension of the city beyond the Schuyl-
kill, contains many of the chief residence-streets and several public
buildings and charitable institutions.
The *TJniver8ity of Pennsylvania (PI. C, D, 6, 7), founded in
1740, and removed to "West Philadelphia in 1872, occupies a group of
ca. 30 buildings scattered over an area of 60 acres bounded by
"Woodland Ave., Cleveland Ave., Pine St., and 32nd St. (reached by
Market St., Walnut St., or South St. cars). It has 4385 students.
The College Hall (PI. 2 ; C, 7), or main building, stands facing
Woodland Ave., between 34th and 35th Sts. The Library (PI. 8;
C, D, 6, 7) contains 272,000 vols, and nxmierous interesting relics,
and is open to the public. — The Medical School (PI. 9, 10; C, 7),
Dental School, andLaio School (PI. 7; C, D, 6), are all provided with
spacious and well -equipped buildings. — Houston Hall, behind
College Hall, is the social centre of the University student life. —
The Wistar Institute of Anatomy ^ Biology (PL i ; C, 7) is recog-
nized as the headquarters of anatomical research in the United States
and contains the first museum of human anatomy founded in America
(1808; open free 9-4, Sat. 9-12). The Morgan Laboratory of Physics,
the Harrison Laboratory of Chemistry (PL 6 ; D, 7), the * Gymna-
sium (PL 5; D, 7), and the Dormitories (PL 3; C, 7) may also be
mentioned. — Franklin Field, adjoining 33rd St., is the athletic
ground of the Unirersity and contains a large stadium (PL D, 7).
172 Route 17. PHILADELPHIA. Museums.
The *rree Museum of Science and Art (PL 11, D 7; open
free, 10-5, Sun. 2-6) occupies a tasteful building in South St.,
owing part of its inspiration to the Certosa di Pavla, and is divided
into live sections. Its value is largely due to the fact that many of
its contents were found by expeditions organized by the University
itself, thus placing their provenance be>ond doubt.
The American Section includes objects from cliflF- dwellings, mound
pottery, and objects from existing Indian tribes. — The main features of
the General Ethn-logical Section are the collection from Borneo and the
collections representing the life of the North American Indians. — The
"* Babylonian Section chiefly consists of objects found by Professor Hilprecht,
Dr. Peters, and Dr. Haynes in excavations at Nippur in Central Babylonia.
Every period of Babylonian history, from B.C. 4500 t'> 700 A.D., is represent-
ed by inscriptions. — The Egyptian Section contains important series of
objects illustrating the history, arts, and industries of Egypt from pre-
historic times down to the Grseco-Roman period. A tomb of the 5th dynasty
is shown on special application. — The Mediterranean Section, including many
Greek, Cypriote, Etruscan, and Roman antiquities, will also well repay
the specialist. — The Glyptic Section consists of a collection of engraved
gems presented by Professor Maxwell Sommerville (some of which, however,
are believed to be spurious). In connection with it is an interesting repro-
duction of a Buddhist temple, also presented by Prof. Sommerville.
To the S. of the University are the large Blockley Almshouses
(PI. C, 7), the Philadelphia Hospital, and the so-called PMladelphia
Commercial Museums (PI. D, 7).
The Philadelphi;iCommercialMuseums (open freedaily) were established
in 1895 to disseminate knowledge concerning the products, requirements,
manners . and customs of diflferent parts of the world. They contain
large geographic exhibits from South and Central America, Mexico, the
West Indies, Africa, A'^ia, and Oceanica. Illustrated lectures are given
daily to classes from the public schools, for which use is made of the
samples of raw and manufactured products fr 'm all parts of the world.
Connected witli the institution are an active Bureau of Information,
devoted to the development of tiie foreign trade of the United States, and
a Library, containing; official reports on foreign commerce, trade papers, and
directories of the larger cities of the world.
A little to the N.E., at the comer of Chestnut St. and 32nd St.,
is the *Drexel Institute (PI. D, 6), founded by A. J. Drexel and
opened in 1892. The total cost of buildings and equipment was
$ 4,500,000. Visitors are admitted (9-6).
The chief object of the institution is 'the extension and improvement
of industrial education as a means of opening better and wider avenues
of employment to young men and women.' It also provides free lectures,
classical c<incerts, and evening classes and contains a free library, a picture
gallery, and a museum. The latter includes collections of wood and metal
work, ceramics, embroideries, and textiles. The picture-gallery contains
a collection of paintings bequeathed by Mr. J. D. Lankenau and Mr. Drexel,
including examples of recent and contemporary masters of the French, Ger-
man, Italian, and other schools. The library" contains a "Collection of MSS.
and Autographs^ presented by Mr. G. W. Childi* (incl. MSS. of Thackeray's
lectures on the Four Georges, and Dickens's 'Our Mutual Friend', a vol.
containing autograph-letters of every President of the United States, MSS.
of Hood and Leigh Hunt, etc.). The institute is attended by 3(XX) students.
To the N. of Market St., between 42nd St. and 49th St., is the
enormous Pennsylvania Insane Asylum {Kirlchride' s Hospital;
PI. A, B, 6), situated in large grounds (no adm. on Sat. or Sun.). —
Fairmount Park. PHILADELPHIA. 17. Route. 173
The V. 8. Naval Asylum (PI. D, 7) accommodates 150 old sailors.
A little to the S. is the Schuylkill Arsenal (PI. D, 8), now devoted
to the manufacture of army clothing.
On the W. hank of the Schuylkill, a little helow the B. & 0. R. R.
hridge, lies *Bartram's Garden or Park (beyond PI, B, 8), which
may he reached by the Elmwood Ave. trolley-line, or hy train from
the B. & 0. station to Eastwick's. This park, 27 acres in extent,
was part of the farm of the botanist John, Bartram (1699-1771) and
is interesting as the cradle of scientific botany in America, though,
owing to a century's neglect, its collections are now rather pic-
turesque than important. Bartram's house, built in 1731, is also
quaint and interesting.
About 11/2 M. to the S. of Bartram Park, b"-tween the Schuylkill and
the Delaware, lies Girard Park, a small public park containirg the house
of Stephen Girard (p. 169). It may be reached by tramways running S.
to Passyunk Ave. and thence bv tramway to 21st St.
Philadelphia prides herself on few things more than on *Fair-
mount Park (PL A-D, 1-5). one of the largest city parks in the world,
which covers an area of 3340 acres (Prater 4270, Richmond 2250).
The park proper extends along both banks of the Schuylkill for
about 4 M., and the narrow strip along the Wissahickon (p. 174),
6 M. long, is also included in the park limits. Its natural beauties
are considerable, but comparatively little has been done to it by
art. Several statues have been erected. — The principal entrances
(2-3 M. from City Hall) are at the end of Oreen St. (PI. D, 5),
which is to be connected with the City Hall (p. 161) by the wide
Park Boulevard, and of Qirard Ave. (PI. €, D, 4). The 'Park
Trolley' (5 c.) affords a general view of the park.
Entering by the Green St, Gate, we have to our left the original Fair
Mount from which the park takes its name. Close by (right) is the
* Washington Memorial iM) it. high), by Rudolf Siemering of Berlin, erected
in 1897. It consists of a platform bearing an equestrian statue of George
Washington, with allegorical fountain-groups at the corners, representing
the rivers Delaware, Hudson, Potomac, and Mississippi. The pedestal is
also adorned with allegorical groups and medallions. On the top of the hill
(*View) is a huge Reservoir, to which the river-water is pumped up by the
adjoining Water Works (PI. I), S). A little farther on we cross a plaza, with
a statue of Abraham Lincoln, beyond which is Lemon Hill (PI. D, 4), crowned
by a restaurant occupying the site of the house of Robert Morris. At the
foot of the hill, on the bank of the Schuylkill, are the picturesque boat-
houses of various clubs. To the right is a reproduction of Thorn's statues
of Tam O'Shanter and Souter Johnny at Ayr {see Baedeker'' s Great Britain).
On reaching the handsome Gieard Bbidge (PI. C, 4), 120 ft. in width, near
the end of which are Statues of HurrAoldt and Joan of Arc, we cross it
to the larger portion of the park on the W. bank of the river. To the
left we see the Zoological Garden (p. 176). Following the Lansdotcne Drive,
we pass (to the left) the Letitia House, given by William Penn to his
daughter Letitia and transferred hither from Letitia St., near Market and
Second Sts. A little farther on we pass the Stone Age Group (by J. J. Boyle),
bend round to the left, and pass through the Smith Memorial Entrance (PI. B, 4),
a structure of white granite, with bronze statuary, designed by J. H. Win-
drim and erected to officers of the Givil War w'jth a bequest of $ 500,0(X)
from the late Richard Smith, a type-founder (statue in frout ; on the columns,
174 Route 17. PHILADELPHIA. Memorial Hall.
Meade and Reynolds). Beyond this we reach ^Memorial Hall (PI. B, 3),
bnilt as part of the Centennial Exhibition of 1876, at a cost of $ 1,500,000
and now containing a permanent collection of art and industry (^Penn-
tylvania Museum of Industrial Art; open from 9.30, on 31 on. from 12, on
Sun. from 1, to V2 1"". before sunset; catalogue 25c.). In front of the
building are two colossal winged steeds in bronze. The collections include
paintings, sculptures, casts, stoneware, majolica, pottery, metal work,
ivory carvings, electroplate reproductions, tapestry, furniture, models,
Japanese work, objects from British India, embroideries, etc. The *Wil-
stach Collection of Paintings (catalogue 25 c). at present accommodated in
Memorial Hall, includes examples of Achenbach, Bastien - Lepage, Rosa
Bonheur, Bonington. Jan Both, Meyer von Bremen, Breton, Bronzino,
Cabanel, Canaletto, Chase, Clays, Pieter Codde, Constable, Corot, Courbet,
Crivelli (No. 77, wiaged altar-piece), Daubigny, Delacroix, Diaz, Dupre,
Van Dyck, Fromentin, Gainsborough, Gerome, Van Goyen, Harrison ('Le
Grand Miroir'), Hondecoeter, Inness, Koninck (164), Lessing, Leys, Lher-
mitte, Van Marcke, Gabriel Max, Meissonier, Moroni, Munkacsy, Murillo,
Van der Neer, Palamedes, Raeburn, Raffaelli, Guide Reni, Rico, Rousseau,
Rubens, Ruysdael, Schreyer, Snyders, Jan Steen, Teniers, Thaulow, Tie-
polo, Tintoretto, Troyon, Velazquez (310), Verboeckhoven, Vollon, Weenix,
Whistler, Zamacois, Ziem, Zo, and many other modern masters, mainly
French or American. The sculptures include works by Powers, Barye,
and Rinehart (bust of Wm. P. Wilstach). — Among the monuments near
Memorial Hall are Statues of Goethe, Schiller, and Gen. Meade. A little to
the N. is the large Horticultural Hall (PI. A, 3), another survival of the Cen-
tennial, finely situated above the Schuylkill and containing an admirable
collection of tropical flora. In the vicinity are the picturesque St, George''s
House (the English building) and a few other Centennial buildings. [Those
who wish may now return to the city by tramway from Elm Avenue, a
little to the S. of Memorial Hall; PI. A, B, 4.] A little to the W. of the
Horticultural Hall is an allegorical Fountain, which lies at the base of
George's Hill (*View). About 1 M. to the N. of this hill is the old Belmont
Mansion (now a restaurant), and about IV4M. farther on we reach Chamounix
and the N. boundary of the W. Park. The bridge here crosses the river
to the quarter known as Falls of Schuylkill.
By turning to the right on the E. bank, we may follow the river-drive
through the E. Park back to (81/2 M.) the Green St. entrance (see p. 173).
In this case we skirt *Laurel Hill Cemetery (PI. C, 1 ; entrances in Ridge
Ave.), which here occupies the high bank of the river, containing many
handsome monuments and affording fine views. Near the main entrance is
a group, by Thorn, of Old Mortality and Sir Walter Scott. Among the
statues is one of Harry Wright (d. 1895), the 'Father of Base Ball'. In
the park, to the S. of the cemetery, is the equestrian statue of The Medicine
Man (PI. C, 2), by C. E. Dallin (1904). Not far off is the 'Statue of General
Grant (PI. B, C, 3), by Dan. C. French and Potter (1899). To the S.W. of
the E. Park Reservoir is Mi. Pleasant, once owned by Benedict Arnold
(pp. 84, 89).
By turning to the left on crossing to Falls of Schuylkill (not far from
which, in Clearfield St., is the small but beautiful Gothic Church of St.
James the Less, with its churchyard, the burial-place of many of the
principal Philadelphia families), we may follow the *'Wissahickon Drive,
which ascends the romantic valley of the Wissahickon Creek; an Alpine
gorge in miniature, with sides 200-800 ft. high, to (6 M.) Ches'nut Hill,
affording a scene of singular lovelines-' to be included within the limits
of a city. The gorge i* crossed by several bridges, including the lofty
viaduct of the Reading Railway (70 ft. high), near the entrance. Near the
summit of the gorge (to the right) is a Statue of William Penn, inscrib-
ed 'Toleration'. Along the stream (on both banks) are several inns, fre-
quented in summer for 'catfish and waffles". Four-horse coaches usually
ply along the Wissahickon Drive in summer. Two new approaches
from Germantown and Chestnut Hill are the Lincoln Drive and Cresheim
Valley Road.
Environs. PHILADELPHIA. 17. Route. 175
The *Zoological Garden (PL C, 4; reached by Girard Ave.
trolley), to the S. of West Fairmonnt Park, is one of the best col-
lections of the kind in America (adm. 25 c, children 10 c). It
occnpies a tract of ground once owned by John Penn, grandson of
William Penn, and contains his house, the Solitude (ITSS).
Among other popular resorts of the PhiladelpMans are Washington Park,
near Gloucester, visited for its 'planked shad', with a long pier, a theatre,
etc.; Lincoln Park, on the Delaware, some miles below the city; and
Willow Grove, with good music and other attractions, 15 M. to the N.E.
of the city by the Reading R. R. (fare 20 c.) and reached also by tramway
from various points. — Near Wayne Junction (see below) is Stenton Park
(14 acres), with the old Logan Mansion (18th cent.).
Camden {West Jersey Eo., S2), an industrial and commercial city with
(1905) 83,363 inhab., lies on the left bank of the Delaware, opposite Phi-
ladelphia (see PI. I, 5-8; ferries, see p. 159). It was long the residence of
the poet, Walt Whitman (1819-92). — It is the terminus of the West Jersey
and the Philadelphia & Atlantic Railways (comp. pp. 158, 180).
Fkom Philadelphia to Gekmantown and Chestnut Hill, li M., rail-
way from the Reading Terminal Station in 30-40 minutes. — Beyond
(5 M.) Wayne Junction (p. 158) the line turns to the N.W. and traverses
*G-ennantown, the principal residential suburb of Philadelphia, stopping
at several stations, of which (7 M.) Chelte-n Avenue is, perhaps, the nearest
to the most populous parts of the district. Germantown is very prettily
laid out, with fine trees and gardens, and contains some interesting old
houses. The battle of Germaatown, in which Washington was defeated
by Lord Howe, was fought on Oct. 4th, 1777. The old Chew House (with
marks of cannon-balls), the Johnson House, the quaint old Mermaid Inn,
and the picturesque Wakefield Mills are interesting relics. The Church of
St. Michael contains a fine stained-glass window (after Guido Reni). —
9 M. Mt. Pleasant; 91/3 M. J/^ ^iry (Cresheim Arms), with the Pennsylvania
Institute for the Deaf and Dumb ; 10 M. Wyndmoor. — 11 M. Chestnut Hill,
a beautiful suburb.
Germantown and Chestnut Hill are also reached by the Penna. R. R.
and by electric tramway. Among the stations on the former are (71/2 M.)
Quern Lane (near which is the Germantown Cricket Club) and (11 M.)
St. Martin''s (with the Horse Show Grounds and the Philadelphia Cricket
Club). — One of the trolley lines follows Germantown Avenue, with the
historic houses mentioned above. This avenue also contains the Lutheran
Orphans'' Home & Asylum for the Aged (No. 6950) and the Lutheran Theological
Seminary (Ko. 7301).
From Philadelphia to West Chestee, 27 M., railway from Broad St,
Station in 1-1 V2 hr. This line crosses the Schuylkill, runs to the S. along
its W. bank, turns to the right beyond Woodland Cemetery, and runs
towards the S.W. — 11 M. Swarthmore, the seat of Swarthmore College
(right), an important Hicksite Quaker establishment, attended by 300 male
and female students. West House, now occupied by one of the professors,
was the birthplace of Benfamin West (1738-1820). — 14 M. Media (370 ft.),
a pleasant little town (3075 inhab.) in a pretty hilly district. — 16 M.
Williamson, the site of the Williamson Free School of Mechanical Trades, found-
ed in ls88 by Mr. I. V. Williamson at an expense of $2,125,000 (425,000/.).
It stands in pretty grounds of 20U acres (permission to visit obtained at 119 S.
4th S., Philadelphia). — 27 M. West Chester, a town with 9524 inhabitants.
Other attractive points within easy access of Philadelphia are Bryn
Mawr (p. 188), Mauch Chunk (p. 183), Long Branch (p. 178), Cape May (p. 181),
and Atlantic City (p. 180).
From Philadelphia to Reading, see R. 20; to Baltimore, see R, 25 ;
to New York, see R. 16; to Buffalo, see R. 19; to Pittsburg, see R. 22;
to Erie, see R. 21,
176
18. Snmmer and Winter Resorts of New Jersey.
Comp. Maps^ pp. 5, 156.
a. From New York to Long Branch and Point Pleasant by Bail.
60 M. New York and Long Branch Railroad in 2-3 hre. (fare to Long
Branch $1, to Point Pleasant $1.31; return-fares $1.50 and $2.05). Tickets
by this route are also available by the Sandy Hook route (p. 177). —
Passengers start in 'ersey pity, either from the Pennsylvania R. R. Station
(p. 10; ferries from 23rd, Desbrosses, and Cortlandt St>^.) or from the Central
R. R. of New Jersey Station (p. 11; ferries from W. 23rd and Liberty Sts.),
The Central R.R. of New Jersey crosses Newark Bay to (10 M.)
ELizabethport (p. 157) and then runs to the S. to (22 M.) Perth Am-
boy (26,895 inhab. in 1906), where it is joined by the Penna. R.
R. train, coining via Rahway (p. 156). We then cross the Raritan
River to (24 M.) South Amboy. 29 M. Matawan^ for lines to Freehold
(p. 177) and to Keyport and Atlantic Highlands. — 39 M. Red Bank
iGlobe, $2), on the estuary of theNavesink (view to the right), is a
yachting and ice-yachting resort and the junction of the New Jersey
Southern R. R. (for Atlantic Highlands^ etc.). Farther on we cross
the Shrewsbury River. — 44 M. Branchport.
46 M. Long Branch, see p. 178. The two following stations,
Eolhjwood ^ West End (46 M.) and Elberon (47 M.) are practically
parts of Long Branch and are described with it at p. 178.
The line now skirts the shore, aifording good views of the ocean
to the left. — 49 M. Deal Beach (Hathaway Inn, $4-6, well spoken
of). — 51 M. As^bury Park if Ocean Orove.
Asbury Park (Coleman Ho., from $5; Brunswick, from $4;
West End, $ 3-4 ; Columbia, $ 4 ; Ocean Ho., $ 3-4; Plaza, $ 41/2-5,
and many others; boarding-houses), a prosperous town with at least
50,000 annual visitors, is largely frequented by those who object
to the religious management of Ocean Grove (see below), but
appreciate the 'no licence' policy of its sister-town. It has a good
beach, skirted by a plank-walk 1 M. in length, and is divided from
N. Asbury on the N. by Sunset Lake and from Ocean Grove by the
narrow Wesley Lake.
Ocean Grove (Sheldon, $21/2-372; Arlington, La Pierre, $2-3;
Atlantic, from $2; many other hotels and boarding-houses), a sea-
side-resort established in 1870 by an Association of the Methodist
Episcopal Church and now frequented yearly by 20-26,000 people.
This extraordinary settlement, possible only in America, in which
many thousands of persons, young and old, voluntarily elect to spend
their summer vacations under a religious autocracy, which is severe both
in its positive and negative regulations, is curious enough to repay a
short visit. It is bounded by the sea on the E., by lakes on the N. and
S., and by a high fence on the W. ; and its gates are closed at 10 p.m.
daily and all day on Sunday. The drinking of alcoholic beverages and the
sale of tobacco are strictly prohibited, and no theatrical performances of
any kind are allowed. No bathing, riding, or driving is permitted on
Sunday. Innumerable religious meetings of all kinds are held daily, the
chief place of assemblage being a huge Auditorium, which contains a very
SKA BRIGHT. 18. Route. 177
powerful or(>an and can hold 10,CK10 people. The> annual Comp Heeling is
the great event of the season. Near the Auditorium is a large Model of
Jertualem. One section of the place consista sulely of tents. The excellent
bathing beach is skirted by a plank-walk, «/4 M. lonji.
We now pass the small seaside-resorts of Avon., Belmar, Como^
and Spring Lake. 57 M. Sea Oirt (see below), Iohr the scene of
the annual nationalrifle-shooting;com{iotitionsof the Army and Navy.
60 M. Point Pleasant (Carrollton, ^ii^o; LeiylUon, $8-5; Fine
Bluff Inn, $21/2-4:; -Beacon, $2^2)1 a frequented watering-place,
forminji the terminus of the Nexv York i^- Long Branch Railroad.
Beyond this point we may po by the Penmylvanid Railroad to Bay
Head, Seaside Park, and other points on Barmgat Bay (p. 178).
b. From New York to Long Branch vi& Atlantic Highlands
and Sandy Hook.
32 M. 8TKAMEK from Pier SI (N. River), at the foot of W. A2nd St.,
and also from Pier 10, at the foot of Cedar St. (PI. H, 2), to f21 M.) Atlantic
Highlands in M/* hr.; Railwat thence to (11 HI.) Long Branch in Va ^r.
(through-fare $1). — This is the pleasantest route to Long Branch in fine
weather.
The steamer affords an excellent view of Neio York Harbour
(comp. p. 31) and lands at (21 M.) Atlantic Highlands [Lockwcwd
Ho., $3), a modern watering-place with (1005) 1480 inhab., at the
base of the Navesink Highlands (200-300 ft.). — 24 M. Highland
Beach (Swift IIo., $3-4), a small bathing-place, on the narrow
strip of sand connecting Sandy Hook (p. 2) with the mainland.
Adjacent is the Navesink Lighthouse ('250 ft.), with two castellated
towers, the light of which is visible for 40M. Farther on life-saving
stations occur at frequent intervals, as vessels mistaking the
entrance to New York harbour in foggy weather are often wrecked
on this coast. 25V/2 M. Normandie-by-the-Sea (Hotel, $4-5).
26V2 M. Sea Bright (Pannacri, from $ 5 ; Octagon, $ 4-6 ; Sea
Bright Inn, $ 3-4 ; Peninsula Ho., $ 4), one of the liveliest resorts on
the coast, with golf, polo, cricket, and lawn-tennis clubs. The nu-
merous ice-houses show that Ushing is extensively carried on here,
— 28m. Galilee, a quaint flshing-village. — 29 M. Monmouth Beach,
a group of private cottages, with a club-house and a casino; 30 M.
North Long Branch; 31 M. East Long Branch, the station for Pleasure
Bay (Avenel, $ S'/g)-
32 M. Long Branch, see p. 178.
c. From Philadelphia to Long Branch.
94 M. Pennsylvania Raimioad in 2'/3-4V4 ^rs. (fare $2.20).
From Philadelphia to (49 M.) Monmouth Junction, see R. 16a,
The Long Ilranch line here diverges to the right. 60 M. Freehold.
with a monument commemorating the battle of Monmouth (1778)j
74 M. Farmingdale (p. 179); <S2 M. Sea Oirt (see above); 88 M.
Asbury Park (p. 176) ; 94 M. Long Branch (see p. 178).
lis Route 18. LONG BRANCH. New Jersey
Local trains also run from the "West Jersey R. R. Station in Camden
p. 176) to (82 M.) Long Branch, via Whitings (p. 179) and Tom's River (p. 179).
Long Eranch.. — There are Railway Stations at Long Branch proper,
for the old village, the pier, and the E. end (omn. to the best hotels 50 c);
at West End & Hollywood^ near the best hotels : and at Elberon, the fashion-
able cottage part of Long Branch. The trains stop at all these stations.
Hotels. ' Hollywood, finely situated among trees, near the Hollywood
station and 1/2 M. from the sea, with excellent ciiisine, R. from S 5 a day,
food a la carte, open all the year. — West End, a huge caravanserai on
the sea; Scakboeo, $4; these two nearest West End Station. — 'Elbeeon,
from $ 6, at Elberon. — Pannagci, $ 6, R. from $ 3; Ocean Hotel: Brigh-
ton, from $ 31/2-, Atlantic; these near the pier and E. end. — Boarding
Houses, $ 10-16 per week. — Cottages (i.e. villas), 5 400-4000 for the season.
Bathing. Hours for bathing announced by the hoisting of a white
flag at the hotels (not hoisted in dangerous weather).
Long Branch, one of the most popular watering-places in the
United States (50,000 summer-guests), takes its name from the
'long branch' of the Shrewsbury River. Permanent population (1905)
12,183. The original village lies about 1 M. inland, hut the modern
watering-place occupies a bluff, which here faces the sea, at a
height of 20-35 ft. above the beautiful sandy beach. Along the
edge of the bluff, which is being gradually worn away by the action
of the sea in spite of the protection of strong bulkheads, runs the
*OcEAN Avenue, a wide road 5 M. long, which presents a scene of
wonderful animation on summer afternoons and evenings, being
crowded with vehicles of every description. At the E. end of the
Avenue is an Iron Pier. Most of the hotels (see above) face the
Avenue, which turns slightly inland beyond the West End Hotel and
is thenceforward bordered with houses on both sides. The finest
villas are at Elberon, but being mostly of timber hardly vie with the
Newport cottages (see p. 249). Among the most interesting are that
which was General Grant's summer-home for 16 years and the
reddish brown house (Franklyn Cottage), a little to the W. of the
Elberon Hotel, in which President Garfield died in 1881. The
leading show-place of Long Branch is EoUywood, the estate of the
late Mr. John Hoey (d. 1892), a little inland from the West End
Hotel, the somewhat meretricious attractions of which, however,
scarcely satisfy a fastidious taste. The flower-gardens and conser-
vatories (open to visitors) are fine. The annual show of the Mon-
mouth County Horse Show Association takes place in these grounds
and attracts thousands of visitors. A Grand Carnival and Laxcn
Tennis Tournament are held at Long Branch in August.
Many pleasant drives may be made, the favourite being the Beach Drive
between Highlands (p. 177) and Bay Head (p. 177; 20 M.), of which Ocean
Avenue is a part. — Eatontown (p. 179), 4 M. inland, is visited for its pic-
turesque old mill. Farther on are Shrewsbury and the Tinton Falls (p. 179).
d. Sarnegat Say.
Barnegat Bay, 27 M. long and 1-4 M. wide, extends from Point
Pleasant (p. 177) to a point a little to the N. of Atlantic City (p. 180).
It is more like a lake than a bay, being separated from the ocean
Beaorts. LAKE WOOD. 18. Route. 179
by two long strips of sandy beacli, and entered by a narrow inlet
between them. The bay is a great resort of sportsmen, affording
excellent fishing and wild-fowl shooting. Among the places chiefly
resorted to are Mardoloking (Albertson, $2-3), Seaside Park (Man-
hasset, $2-272), Barnegat City (Oceanic Ho., $21/2), and jBeacft
Haven (Engleside, $ 3V2-5)? on the island-strips; and Forked River
(Lafayette Ho., $2), Tom's River Riverside, Ocean, $2), Waretown
(Bayview, $21/2)5 an*! Barnegat (Social, $2), on or near the main-
land coast. The last are the special haunts of sportsmen. All these
places are reached by the Penna. or Central New Jersey R. R.
e. From New York to Lakewood and Atlantic City.
I36V2 M. Centkal Railkoad of ^ITew Jeeset to (59^/2 M.) Laketeood in
IV2-3V3 hrs. (fare $ 1.45) ; to (136V2 M.) Atlantic City in 3-61/4 hrs, (fare
$ 3.25). — The train starts from Jersey City (see p. 10 ; ferries from 23rd
and Liberty Sts.).
From Jersey City to (39 M.) Red Bank, see R. 18a. Our line here
diverges to the right from the line to Long Branch (p. 177). — 41 M.
Shrewsbury, a small town dating from 1665, with some old bnild-
ings. About 21/2 M. to the S. are Tinton Falls. — At (43 M.)
Eatontown we enter the Jersey Pine Plains, a stretch of forests,
broken only by the settlements along the railway. The district has
lately been coming into reputation on account of the health-giving
odour of the pines. ■ — At (52 M.) Farmingdale we cross the line
from Freehold to Sea Girt (p. 177).
591/2 M. Lakewood {*Laurel House, *Laurel in the Pines, belong-
ing to the same proprietors, with 700 beds, from $4; *Ldkewood,
with 600 beds, $ 5; Palmer House, from $ 3), a pleasant little settle-
ment in the heart of the pine woods, has recently become a frequent-
ed winter-resort (Oct. -May) on account of its sheltered situation
and comparatively high temperature (10-12° warmer than in New
York). It belongs to an association, which has laid out pleasant
drives and walks through the woods, the most popular being that
through the Cathedral Pines. The village is adjoined by two pretty
little lakes, Carasaljo andifanetta. The Lakewood Golf Links, which
witness many important matches, are laid out on the grounds of
Georgian Court, the magnificent residence of Mr. George Gould,
whose picture-gallery contains famous examples of Rembrandt
(Standard Bearer), Reynolds, Rousseau, and Fromentin.
67 M. Lakehurst (Pine Tree Inn, $3), the junction of a line to
Tom^s River (see above) and Barnegat (see above). At (73 M.)
Whitings we cross the line from Philadelphia to Long Branch (see
p. 177). — At (1051/2 M.) Winslow Junction, we reach the Penn. R. R.
(Atlan. City Division). Hence to (1361/2 M.) Atlantic City, see p. 180.
The line we have been following goes on to (122 M.) Vineland (Baker
Ho., $2), a glass-making and fruit-growing town, with (1905) 4593 inhab. ;
134 M. Bridgeton^ also a glass-making town (13,624 inhab. in 1905); and
(144 M.) Bay Side, on the N. bank of the estuary of the Delaware.
180 Route 18. ATLANTIC CITY. New Jersey
f. From Philadelphia to Atlantic City.
1. Reading Eaileoad C Atlantic City Line') from Kaighn''t Point, Camden
(ferry from Philadelphia, see p. 158), to (56 M.) Atlantic Ctty in 1-2 hrs. (fare
$ 1.25). — 2. Pennsylvania R. R. (three routes): a. From Broad St. Station
via the Delaware River Bridge z.i Frank ford (p. 157; 65 M.) in IV4-IV3 hr.
(fare $ 1.65). b. From Federal St. Station, Camden (ferry from Market St.,
Philadelphia, see p. 158) via Haddonfield (58 M.) in 1V4-2V3 hrs. (fare $ 1).
c. From Federal St. Station (ferry as above) via Newfield (64 M.) in 12/3-
273 hrs. (electric service; fare §1). The last two belong to the West
Jersey d: Seashore Division of the Penna. R. R. — Some of the trains
between Philadelphia and Atlantic City run at a rate of 60-65 M. an hour.
Routes 1 and 21) (see above) follow practically the same route
and touch many of the same stations. Both pass through Winslow
Junction (p. 179), 241/2 M. from Camden hy the first route and
27 M. by the second. 39 M. (41 M.) Egg Harbor, with manufactures
of native wine. — 56 M. (58 M.) Atlantic City, see below.
Route 2c runs farther to the S. 9 M. Woodbury; 30 M. iVeu'-
field; 59 M. Pleasantville. 64 M. Atlantic City, see below.
On the 'Bridge' route the trains follow the main New York line
of the Penna. R. R. to (9 M.) Frankford, cross the Delaware to
Fisher's Point, and join R. 2b at Haddonfield (6 M. from Camden).
Atlantic City. — Hotels. *Mablborou6h-Blenheim, from $ 4, R. from
$2; Shelbukne, from $ 3V2, R- from $2; ^Brighton, Chelsea, from $4;
'Chalfonte, Haddon Hall (these two under same management), That-
more, Dennis, these from $31/2; 'St. Charles, from $3; Rddolph, Rotal
Palace (frequented by Hebrews), from $31/2; Young's, R. from $1V2. AH
these are on the Board Walk, the most desirable situation. — Strand,
■Galen Hall, from $3; Windsor, from $3, R. from $1; Wiltshire,
Gladstone, Loraine, Raleigh, Garden (open in summer only), Penn-
hubst. Grand Atlantic, these from $21/2 or $ 3 up. — Boarding Houses.
States Villa, States Ave., from $ 15 a week; many others S 10-25 a week. —
Cottages from $200 for the season. — There are at least 900 hotels and
boarding-houses in Atlantic City. The charges are highest in Easter Week
and August, when it is advisable to secure rooms in advance. All the
hotels give reduced rates by the week. The largest hotels remain open all
the year round. — Information about hotels and lodgings may be obtained
from the Atlantic City Bureau of Information, Pacific Avenue.
Restaurants at the Marlborough-Blenheim, Shelburne, Young's, Wind-
sor, and Rudolph Hotels.
Amusements. Apollo and Savoy Theatres, both on the Board Walk. —
Variety Shows, on Young's and Steel Piers. — Concerts, on the Piers, thrice
daily. — Carnegie Library, Pacific Avenue.
Carriages from the railway - stations to the hotels, each pers. 26 c.;
fer hr. $1-11/2- — One-horse Coaches ply to any point in the town for
Oc. each (for ten blocks), if engaged while in motion; if taken from a
stand, 25 c. — Electric Tramways run along Atlantic Ave. and down
several cross-streets to the Board Walk. — Bath Chair 25.c. per hr., with
attendant 5Uc.
Baths, at Galen Hall (see above; hydrotherapy, etc.) and at the Brigh-
ton Casino (p. 181; with swimming-pool).
Atlantic City, the most frequented seaside -resort of America,
lies on Absecon Island, a small sand-strip, separated from the New
Jersey Coast by 6 M. of sea and salt-meadows. It contains a per-
manent population of (1905) 37,593, which is increased about five-
told in August by visitors from all over the country. It is now also
Seaside Resorts. CAPE MAY. 18. Route. 181
frequented in spring and winter, the climate being comparatively
mild and sunny and the air exceedingly tonic. The beach is one
of the finest in America, and from 50,000 to 100,000 people have
bathed here in one day (bath, with dress, 25 c). It is bordered by
a *Board Walk, 40 ft. wide and 5^8 M. long, flanked on the land-
ward side by hotels, shops, Japanese auction-rooms, and places of
amusement. This walk (one sei:tion of which is now of steel and
concrete) is brilliantly illuminated at night. The five Piers (1000-
2500 ft. long; adm. 10c.) are favourite resorts for roller-skating,
concerts, 'net-hauls', etc. The Brighton, Casino is an informal club,
where the daily newspapers may be consulted.
Among the favourite Excursions are the Beach Drive, 10 M. ; to South
Atlantic City, 5 M. ; to (7 M.) Longport (Aberdeen, Devonshire, from $ 3),
near the S, end of the island, by road or electric railway (fare 10 c); from
Longport to Ocean City (see below) by electric railway (V2 hr.) over the
new bridge from Somers Point. Brigantine Beach (Holland Ho., $ 4), on
an island to the N., may be visited by boat. The New Boulevard to the
mainland is an excellent road for motoring or driving. — Ahtecon Lighthouse
(160 ft. high) is open to visitors, 9-12. — Boating and Sailing are carried
on mainly in the Inlet, at the upper end of the island (sail-boat $ 6 10 per day;
sailing excursions, 25-50 c. each). — Fishing and Wild Fowl Shooting are
also popular. — The Country Cltib., near Pleasantville (p. 180), includes
excellent golf-links, tennis courts, and a polo field among its attractions.
It may be reached by electric car or by the famous bicycle track that
runs all the way from Atlantic City to Philadelphia.
g. From Philadelphia to Cape Hay.
1. West Jebsey & Seashore Railroad (Penna. System) from Broad
St. Station via Delaware Bridge (comp. p. 180) in 2 hrs. (fare $2) or from
Camden (ferry from Philadelphia, see p. 158) to (82 M.) Gape May City in
IV2-23/4 hrs. (fare $ 1.75). — 2. Reading Railroad from Kaighnt Point
(ferry, p. 168) to (TSVs M.) Cape May in IV2-2V4 hrs. (fare as above). —
Steamers also ply in summer down Delaware Bay to Cape May (6 hrs.;
return-fare $ 1).
The West Jersey R. R. route diverges to the right from the At-
lantic City line at (30 M.) Newfield (p. 180). 34 M. Vineland, see
p. 179. — From (61 M.) Sea Isle Junction a branch-line runs to
(5M.) Sea Isle City and (16 M.) Ocean City (see below). 82 M.
Cope May (see below).
The Reading route runs via (241/2 M.) Winslow Junction (p. 179)
and then follows the Atlantic City R. R. 52 M. Tuckahoe is the
junction of lines to (12 M.) Sea Isle City (Continental, $ 3 ; Belle-
vue, $ 2) and (13 M.) Ocean City (Brighton, Strand, Traymore, $ 2-
2V2)) *wo sea-bathing resorts. — 67 M. Cape May Court House.
781/2 M. Cape May. — *Cape Mat Hotel, from $4, R. from $2;
Lafayette, Stockton House (1000 beds), Windsor, $3-5; Colonial, from
$3; Congress Hall (750 beds), Baltimore Inn, Elberon, Star Villa,
Aldine, Chalfonte, from $ 2 or $2V2; and many others. — Boarding
Houses, $ 5-20 a week.
Cape May City, at the extreme S. point of Cape May, the E. arm
of Delaware Bay, a village with (1905) 3006 inhab., a popular sea-
bathing resort of the Philadelphians and also frequented to some
182 Route 19. BETHLEHEM.
extent by Sonthemeis and Westerners, is a smaller edition of At-
lantic City (p. 180). Its beacli, 5 M. long, is hard and smootli,
affording an excellent course for automobiles. Great improvements
bave recently been made in reclaiming salt meadows and deepening
the harbour. The sea -front is skirted by a fine boulevard and
board-walk, extending to SewelVs Point. There are a Oolf Club
and a Yacht Club. Excursions may be made to Cape May Point
(electric cars). Cold Spring, etc. The cape is named after a Dutch
navigator, Carolis Jacobsen Mey, who visited Delaware Bay in 1623.
19. From Philadelphia to Bujffalo.
a. ViSi Bethlehem and Mauch Chunk.
416 M. Philadelphia and Reading R. R. to (57 M.) Bethlehem, and
Lehigh Valley R. R. thence to (359 M.) Buffalo. Througli - trains in
IIV2 hrs. (fare $9.25; sleeper or parlor-car $2).
Philadelphia, see p. 158. The train traverses the N. part of the
city and passes several suburban stations. 5 M. Wayne Junction
(p. 158); 91/2 M. ElMns Park, with the Ogontz Girls' School; 11 M.
JerOiintown (p. 158). Beyond (331/2 M.) Sellersville we penetrate
the Landis Hills by a tunnel, ^2 M. long.
57 M. Bethlehem (Hot. Wyandotte, at S. Bethlehem, $ 21/2-3;
Eagle, $ 21/2 ; Sun, a modernized relic of the 18th century, $ 2), athriv-
ing town of 20,534 inhab. (incl. South Bethlehem), lies on the Lehigh,
which joins the Delaware, 12 M. lower down. It is noted as the
chief American centre of the Moravian Brothers, who settled here
under Count Zinzendorf in 1740-41. Many of the old Moravian
schools and other buildings are still extant, and the town is an edu-
cational centre of some importance through these and more modern
foundations (see 'History of Bethlehem', by Bishop J. M. Levering;
1904). Lehigh University (650 students), above the town, ranks very
high for its work in engineering, physics, chemistry, biology, and
metallurgy. Its library contains 90,000 volumes. The chief in-
dustries are silk-weaving and the making of brass, zinc, steel, and
iron. The Bethlehem Steel Co. (3500 men) makes a large quantity
of armour-plate, shafts for marine engines, and heavy ordnance.
Electric tramways run to Philadelphia, Easton (12 M. ; p. 144), etc.
The train now ascends the *Lehigh Valley, with the tortuous
stream to the right. Numerous iron-works are passed. 62 M. Allen-
town (Allen, $ 21/2-3; American Ho., $2-21/2), an iron and silk
making town with 35,416 inhabitants. — 65 M. Catasauqua; 66 M.
Hokendauqua; 67 M. Coplay, all with iron-works, blast-furnaces,
and heaps of slag. The iron-works then disappear for a time and the
scenery improves. 78 M. Slatington is the outlet for the most ex-
tensive slate-quarries in America. To the right is the bridge of the
Lehigh and New England Railroad. About 2 M. farther on we pen-
etrate the Blue Mts. by the *Lehigh Water Gap (390 ft., Craig), in
WILKES-BARRE. 19. Route. 183
which, two railways, the river, and a canal are compressed betw^een
perpendicular cliffs. Beyond this point the valley expands, and the
iron-works soon re-appear, 871/2 M. Lehighton is the station for
Weissport (to the right), the seat of a settlement of Moravian Indians,
brntally massacred by the whites in 1757. — At (89 M.) Packerton
are the workshops of the Lehigh Valley R.R. A little farther on the
valley contracts and onr line crosses to the N. bank of the river.
91 M. Mauch Chunk (530 ft. ; American, $ 2-3), a small town
with 4029 inhab., pictnresquely situated on a rocky shelf on the
brink of the river, in one of the narrowest parts of the valley, with
mountains towering overhead, is visited annually by thousands of
travellers. It has but two streets, one running along the river and
the other extending at right angles to it up a cleft in the mountains 5
while the slope is so abrupt that the man who enters his front-door
on the street-level may step into his back-yard from the second
story window. The Bear Mt. (Indian, Mauch Chunk') from which it
takes its name rises to a height of 700 ft. immediately above the
town. Mauch Chunk lies in the midst of a rich coal- district, and an
immense traffic in coals is carried on by the railways and canals.
The chief lion of Mauch Chunk is the *Switchback or Gravity Railroad,
originally built in 1827 to bring the coals out from the mines to the river,
but now used by pleasure-seekers only (round trip in I1/2 hr., fare 75 c;
omn. to foot of railway 25c.). The train is first drawn by a powerful
stationary engine to (1/2 M.) the top of Mt. Pisgah (1370 ft. ; view), whence
it descends by gravity to (61/2 M.) the foot oi Mt. Jefferson (1530 ft. ; *View).
It is drawn up another inclined plane (gradient 1 : 41/2) on this hill, and
then runs on a level to (1 M.) Summit Hill (1485 ft. ; Eagle Hotel, $ 2), a
mining village with 2986 inhab., frequented by summer-visitors. Burning
Mine here has been smouldering for 75 years. The descent to (9 M.) Upper
Mauch Chunk, near our starting-place, is made by gravity in 25 minutes. —
Good views are also obtained from Prospect Rock and Flagstaff Peak
(1700 ft. ; trolley).
"We continue to follow the narrow winding gorge of the river. —
93 M. Glen Onoko (Hotel Wahnetah, $21/2), a beautiful little glen,
traversed by a stream forming a series of falls. It is much frequented
by excursion -parties. — At (114 M.) White Haven (1140 ft.) we
leave the river and ascend the mountains to the left. — 125 M. Glen
Summit (1725 ft. ; *Hotel, $ 3-4, meal-station), on the watershed
between the Delaware and the Susquehanna, commands a distant
view of the AUeghenies (W.). "We now descend rapidly into the
Wyoming Valley (p. 184), a beautiful *View of which, with the
Susquehanna River, is suddenly disclosed to the right.
145 M. Wilkes-Barre (550 ft. ; Hot. Sterling, $ 2V2-5 ; Redington,
from $ 2V2, ^- from $ 1), the chief town iu the Wyoming Yalley, on
the E. bank of the Susquehanna, contains 51,721 inhab., who owe
their prosperity to the rich coal-mines of the district. The chief
manufactures are wire-rope, lace-curtains, and silk. St. Stephen's
Church contains a large and fine bronze relief by J. Massey Rhind,
"Wilkes-Barr^ is connected by two bridges with Kingston (3846 in-
hab. ; motor-car works) on the opposite bank.
Baedeker's United States. 4th Edit. 12
1S4: Route 19. VALLEY OF WYOMING. From Philadelphia
The *Valley of 'Wyoming (a corruption of the Indian Maughteauteama
or 'large plains'), the name given to this expansion of the Susquehanna
Valley, is about 20 M. long and 3-5 M. wide and is enclosed by two par-
allel ranges of hills, 800-1100 ft. high. The Smquehanna ('broad and
shallow river''), which has a total length of 400 M. from Otsego Lake (see
p. 96) to Chesapeake Bay, enters the valley through the Lackawannock Gap
and leaves it through the narrow Nanticoke Gap. \Vithin the valley its
course is generally placid, but it forms twn sets of rapids (the Wyoming
and Nanticoke Falls) and receives several tributaries fr m the mountains.
Numerous coal pits, culm-heaps, and smoking chimneys testify to the pre-
vailing industry of the valley. A good 'X iew nf the valley is obtained from
Prospect Rock (750 ft.), 2 M. from Wilkes-Barre. CampbelVs Ledge, on the
E. side of the Lackawannock G-ap, is also a good point of view. — Mountain
Park (stat. on the Central R. R. of JSew Jersey), 8 M. tu the E., is a
favourite resort of excursionists.
The name of the valley is widely known from the harrowing incidents
narrated by Campbell in his 'Gertrude of Wyoming'. In June, 1778, a
force of British troops and Indians entered the valley and defeated the
settlers in a battle fought on July 3rd. The battle was followed by an
atrocious massacre, in which the British • fficers were unable to set any
bounds to the butchery of their savage allies, who, it is estimated, slew
3(X) men, women, and children. Fort Forty, the scene of the battle, 4 M.
above Kingston (p. 183), is marked by an Obelisk, ti2i/2 ft. high; and about
3 M. farther up is Queen Esther''s Rock, where the half-breed queen of the
Senecas tomahawked 14 defenceless prisoners.
About 18 M. to the W. of Wilkes-Barre, on a branch of the Lehigh
Valley E. R. , is the picturesque Harvey s Lake or Lake Shawanese (.The
Oneonta, $2 31/2; Lake Hotel, $2), now a favonrite resort. F.irther off,
reached by the same branch-railway, is (43 M.) Oanoga Lake (2320 ft. ; North
Mountain Ho., $ 21/2).
From Wilkes-Bake6 to Nineveh, 93 M., Delaware & Hudson R. R. in
31/2 hrs. (fare $ 2.84). This line traverses a coal-mining district. — 9 M.
Pittston (see below); 11 M. Avoca; 16 M. Minooka; 19 M. Scranton. an im-
portant junction (p. 141); 35 M. Carbondale (Harrison Ho., New American
Ho., $2), a busy coal-mining city with 13. 536 inhabitants. — The train now
ascends to (55 M.) Ararat Summit (2500 ft.), beyond which it descends
into the valley of the Susquehanna. 71 M. Jefferson Junction; 73 M. Lanes-
boro; 81 M. Windsor; 86 M. East Windsor; 89 M. Centre Village. — 93 M.
Nineveh, see p. 97.
The train now ascends along tlie E. bank of tlie Susquehanna.
The Wyoming Monument (see above) is seen across the river to the
left. — 153 M. Pittston (570 ft.; see above), with 12,556 inhab.,
lies near the point where the Lackawanna pours into the Susque-
hanna. Above rises Campbell's Ledge (see above).
Beyond Pittston the scenery is less interesting. At (179 M.)
Vosburg we thread a tunnel 1000 yds. long and at (238 M.) Athens
(770 ft.) we cross the Chemung River. — Beyond (239 M.) Sayre
Junction (for lines to Auburn, Owego, Waverly, etc.) we cross the
Erie R. R. (R. 12 d). At (255 M.) Van Etten the line forks, the
left branch running to Geneva (see below) via Burdett (3 M. from
Watkins Glen, p. 134) and Seneca Lake (p. 134), while that traversed
by most through-trains runs to the N. to (275 M.) Ithaca (p. 145)
and skirts the W. side of Cayuga Lake (p. 145 ; views to right). On
the opposite bank are salt-works. — 284 M. Taughannock Falls
(p. 146 ; fine view of ravine but not of falls themselves). Beyond
(299 M.) Hayt's Corners we lose sight of Cayuga Lake, while Seneca
Lake (p. 184) comes into view (left). 313 M. Geneva, see p. 134. —
to Buffalo. WILLIAMSPORT. 19. Route. 185
348 M. Rochester Junction, for (13 M.) Rochester (p. 135). — 379 M.
Batavia ( . 135); 412 M. East liuffalo (p. 136).
416 M. Buffalo, see p. 136.
b. Vi&, Williamsport and Emporium.
417 M. Pennsylvania Railkuad in 13'A^-14V'^ hrs. (fares as ;it p. 1^1).
Froii) Philadelphia to (105 M.) Hurrisburg . see R. 22. Our line
here diverges to the right from the line to Pittsburg and runs to
the N. along the Susquehanna. — 158 M. 8unl>ury (450 ft.; V)810
inhab.), on the left bank of the wide Susquehanna, is an important
outlet for the Shimokin Coal District. — At (160 M.) Northumber-
land, at the i-oniltiem-e of the N. and S. branches of the Susque-
hanna, Dr. Joseph Priestley , discoverer of oxygen gas, lived from
1794 tiU his death in 1804. He is buried in the cemetery here. —
Farther on our line runs parallel with the Reading line.
198 M. Williamsport {Ipdegraff, $3-4; Park, 2-4), a city on
the right bank of the S. (or W.) branch of the Susquehanna, with
28,757 inhab., chiefly engaged in the timber trade. The huge 'Boom'
on the river here can contain 300 million feet of timber. Williams-
port is a station of the long Seaboard Oil Pipe Line (comp. p. 201).
Fkom Williamsport to Satteefikld, 65 M., Williamsport d: North
Branch R. R. in 21/4 hrs. This line crosses the Phil. & Reading R. R.
at (10 M.I Balls and traverses a picturesque district which has been am-
biitdusly dubbed the 'Adirondacks of Pennsylvania". — The chief resorts
Are Highland Lake (AiUOft. ; Essick, Highland Ho.), reached by coach (ly-ihr.)
from (iV) M.) Picture Rocks (U7U ft.) or (121 M. ) Chamouni; Eagles' Mere ( 2200 ft. ;
Hotel Eayles'' Mere, Lakeside, Raymond, Crestmont, $3-4; Forest Inn ; Alle-
gheny, $2), reached by a short branch-line (10 M.) from (32 M.) Sonestown;
and Lake Mokoma (La Porte Hotel), 4 M. from (37 M.) Nordmont.
From "Williamsport to Earrisf^urg, see p 189.
We turn to the left (W.), cross the Lycoming Creek and the Sus-
quehanna , and ascend on the right bank of the latter. 223 M. Lock
Haven, another lumbering town (7210 inhab.), situated on the right
bank of the Susquehanna. The scenery here and as we advance far-
ther up the river is picturesque. We cross and recross the stream. —
250 M. Renovo (670 ft. ; Renovo Hotel, $ 2), a summer-resort, finely
situated in the Susquehanna valley, among hills 800-1000 ft. high.
At (263 M.) Keating (720 ft.) we leave the Susquehanna and
begin to ascend the Sinnemahoning, The dreary district we now tra-
verse is known as the Great Horseshoe of the Alleghenies. — 278 M.
Driftwood, junction of a line to Pittsburg (p. 197). — 296 M. Em-
porium (1030 ft.; Warner, City Hotel, $2), a hill-surrounded vil-
lage with 2463 inhab., is the junction of the Penna. R.R. route to
Erie (R. 21). Our line runs to the N. to (320 M.) Port Allegany, and
then follows the Allegheny River to (347 M.) Olean {Olean Ho., from
$2), on the Erie R.R. (p. 231), a large petroleum storing place.
Pop. (1905) 10,163. — To the left, near (367 M.) Franklinville, is
Lime Lake. — At (400 M.) East Aurora (Roycrofters Inn, D. 50 c.) is
the interesting art-industrial colony of the , Roycrofters', of which
12*
186 Route 20. READING.
Mr. Elbert Hubbard is the head. Their productions include hand-
made furniture, books, and works in clay, metal, and leather.
417 M. Buffalo, see p. 136.
20. From Philadelphia to Reading and Williamsport.
199 M. Philadelphia & Reading Railkoad in 6V2-8V4 hrs. (fare $4.68).
— The Pexnstlvania Railkoad (Broad St. Station) is also available, the
trains following nearly the same route (fare as above; comp. R. 22). — Both
lines traverse the Schuylkill Valley and connect the great anthracite coal-
fields of Pennsylvania with the ocean.
Philadelphia, see p. 158. The train crosses tbe Schuylkill^ touches
the N. end of Fairmount Park (p. 173), and ascends the right bank
of the river, parallel with the Penna. R. R. on the opposite bank.
The yalley is thickly populated and contains numerous factories
and mills. — 17^/2 M. Bridgeport lies opposite Norristown (^Finley,
Montgomery, $ 2), a thriving manufacturing city (22,265 inhab.). —
24 M. Valley Forge ("Washington Inn, $11/2-^), the headquarters
of Washington and the American army during the trying winter of
1777-78. The farm-house in which Washington had his quarters
is still preserved (to the left of the railway), and the site is now a
public park (with memorial chapel and monuments). — Beyond
(28 M.) Phoenixville, at the foot of Black Rock, with 9196 inhab. and
the huge Phoenix Iron and Steel Works, we thread a tunnel nearly
1/2 M. long. Our train then crosses the river, changing sides with
the Pennsylvania line. We are now in the district of the so-called
^Pennsylvania Dutch', a hard-working race of Teutonic origin,
speaking a curious dialect of South German, with an Infusion of
English. Near (41 M.) Pottstown, another iron-making place (13,696
inhab.), are the Ringing Rocks, emitting a musical sound when struck
(electric tramway). We cross the Manatawny.
581/2 M. Reading (270 ft.: Mansion Ho., from $3; Penn,
$2^/2-372; -P' ^ ^' Railway Restauranf), a busy manufacturing city
with 78.961 inhab., lies on a comparatively level plateau hemmed
in by Penn's Mt. (see below) on the E. and JS'eversink Mt. (see below)
on the S. The Court House is a handsome building, with a portico
borne by six columns of the old red sandstone found in the adjacent
mountains. The chief industry is iron-making, and the shops of the
Reading Railway give employment to about 3000 men.
Penn'i Mt. (1040 ft.), at the top of which is the Summit Hotel ($ 2V2-3),
is ascended by a 'switchback' railway. The ''White Spot, ICOO ft. above
the river, a remnant of Potsdam sandstone lying unconformably on Lau-
rentian rock, is a favourite point of view. — Another mountain-railway
(views) climbs to the top of Neversink Mt. (850 ft.), with its large hotel
($ 31/2). — Reading is an important railway-centre.
On the 'Columbia Division' of the Reading R.R., 20 M. from Reading,
lies Ephrata (Cocalico, $1V2), one of the centres of the sect known as
Dunkards or Tunkert, whose characteristically simple costume is common
in this whole region. The cells of the half-ruinous 'Brother' and 'Sister
Houses' at Ephrata now contain about a dozen inmates only.
ERIE. 21. Route. 187
Beyond Reading onr line continues to follow tlie Schuylkill Val-
ley, and tlie long ridge of the Blue Mts. looms Tip ahead of ns, changing
from grey to blue as we approach it. — At (79 M.) Port Clinton
(410 ft.) , at the mouth of the Little Schuylkill, we pass through a
gap in the ridge, similar to, but less picturesque than those men-
tioned at pp. 182, 140. Port Clinton stands on the S. edge of the
great anthracite coal-region, and has a busy traffic in coal. Our
railway forks here, the left branch going on to Pottsville, the right to
Williamsport via the Catawissa Valley (see below).
" Fkom Poet Clinton to Pottsville, 15 M., railway in V2-V^ hr. — The
line follows the Schuylkill. — 5 M. Auburn; 11 M. SchuylHll Haven. —
15 M. Pottsville (615 ft.j Allan, $2-3), a city with 15,710 inhab., in the
gap where the river breaks through Sharp Mi. (1395 ft.), lies in the great
S. or Schuylkill Coal Basin, which produces about one-fourth of the anthra-
cite coal of Pennsylvania. The surrounding district is a network of railways.
The Williamsport train ascends the valley of the Little Schuyl-
kill and traverses a busy coal-mining district. — 104^2 M. East
Mahanoy Junction. Farther on we traverse the picturesque Catawissa
Valley. At (146 M.) Catawissa (475 ft.) we cross the Susquehanna.
171 M. Milton Junction; 1901/2 M. Halls (see p. 185).
199 M. Williamsport, see p. 185.
21. From Philadelphia to Erie.
Pennsylvania Railboad in I2V4-I6V2 hrs. (fare $ 10.50).
From Philadelphia to (296 M.) Emporium, see R. 19b. — 316 M.
St. Mary's (1670 ft.), in a lumbering and bituminous coal district,
has a large German Benedictine college and convent. — 341 M.
Wilcox (1525 ft.) , with a large tannery. — 350 M. Kane (2020 ft. 5
Griffin Hotel, $ 2), with 5296 inhab., frequented for deer-shooting
and fishing. We now begin to descend on the Lake Erie side of the
ridge. — 379 M. Warren (1195 ft.), at the confluence of the Allegheny
and the Conewango, is the junction of a line to Dunkirk (p. 353). —
408 M. Corry (1430 ft.), an industrial town (5369 inhab.).
From Corry to Pittsburg and to Bufalo, see p. 201. Corry is also
the junction of lines to Jamestown (comp. p. 232), etc.
419 M. Vnion Oily; 426 M. Water ford (1190 ft.), on the Le
Boeuf Lake. Beyond (434 M.) Jackson (1225 ft.) we cross the water-
shed between the Ohio and Lake Erie, here only 8 M. from the latter.
445 M. Erie {Reed Ho., $ 2V2-^V2-, -^i«&«^ So., $2-3; Massa-
sauga Point, on the lake), a lake shipping-port with a good harbour
(enclosed by Presque Isle) and 52,733 inhab., occupies the site of a
French fort buUt in 1749 and was the headquarters of Commodore
Perry (p. 243) when he defeated the Anglo-Canadian fleet in 1813.
It contains some handsome buildings, including the Pennsylvania
Soldiers' and Sailors' Home, and has important manufactories of
boilers and engines. It is the junction of lines to Buffalo (see p. 353),
Pittsburg (see p. 201), etc.
188
22. From Philadelphia to Harrisburg and Pittsburg.
Comp. Map^ p. 156.
354 M. Pennsylvania Railroad to (105 M.) Harrixburg in 2-4 lirs.
(fare $2.60; parlor-car $1.50)-, to (354 >I.) Pittsburg ia Ti/z-UVz lirs, (fare
$8.80; parlor-cur $2, sleeper $2). Tbis liae, forming part of the fine
through-route from New York to Chicago (see E. 29a), traverses the beau-
tiful v.lleys of the Susquehanna and Juniata.
Leaving the handsome Broad St. Station fp. 15S), the train
crosses the Schuylkill and runs to the N.W. through West Philadelphia
(p. 171), passing various suburban stations. 9 M. Haverford College,
with a college of the Orthodox Quakers, situated in a park to the
left. — 10 M. Bryn Mawr (415 ft. ; Welsh 'great hill'; Bryn Mawr
Ho., $2) is the site of *Bryn Mawr College, one of the youngest
(1880) and best colleges for women in the United States (435 stn-
dents). The tower of the main building is conspicuous to the right.
The Library and Cloisters (1907], in the Jacobean style, are the
most prominent of a group of buildings noteworthy for their archi-
tecture. — 12 M. Villa Nova, with a R. C. college, monastery, and
farm. — To the left, at (I6V2 M.) Devon, is the large Devon Inn
($4-5), a favourite summer- resort. — At (20 M.) Paoli (535 ft.)
the British defeated the Americans on Sept. 20th, 1777 (monument).
It was the birthplace of 'Mad' Anthony Wayne (1745-96; p. 83).
The train now leaves the region of suburban homes and enters
the ^Garden of Pennsylvania' , one of the richest and most carefully
cultivated farming districts in America. A splendid * View of the
peaceful Chester Valley is disclosed to the right as we cross the ridge
(550 ft.) of a S. outlier of the AUeghenies and emerge on the hill-
side. We follow the ridge for some time and then descend to the
valley. — 321/2 M. Downinytown. Iron-works and lime-kilns now
appear. — At (381/2 M.) Coatesville (380 ft.; 5721 inhab.) we cross
the West Brandywinehy a bridge 73 ft. high. — 51 M. Gap (560 ft.)
lies in an opening in Mine Hill, on the watershed between the Del-
aware and the Susquehanna, and the train now descends into the
Pequea Valley, with its fields of wheat, maize, and tobacco — Cross-
ing the Conestoga Creek, which preserves the name of the Conestoga
Indians, we reach (69 M.) Lancaster (360 ft. ; Stevens Ho., $2^/2;
Wheatland, $2-3), a prosperous manufacturing town of 41.460 in-
hab. and an important market in tobacco and farm produce. The
Franklin <$-■ Marshall College and the Theological Seminary here both
belong to the German Reformed Church. Wood^rard Hill Cemetery
contains the grave of President Buchanan (1791-1868). The district
is largely peopled by the descendants of German colonists. A rail-
way runs hence to Hanover and Gettysburg (p. 192).
Beyond (87 M.) Elizabethtown the train enters the picturesque
defiles of the South Mountain. At (90 M.) Conewago we cross the
stream of that name (view). Farther on we reach the W. bank of the
Susquehanna , a wide, shallow stream , thickly strewn with rocks.
HARRISBURG. 22. Route. 189
96 M. Middletown, witli 5608 inhab., is an iron-making place. — At
(1021/2 M.) Steelton (pop. 12,086) are the huge works of the Penn-
sylvania Steel Co., employing several thousand men.
105 M. Harrisburg (320 ft. ; Commonwealth, Lochiel Ho.., % 3-6 ;
Bolton, from $ 21/2), tlie capital of Pennsylvania, is finely situated
on the E. bank of the Susquehanna, here about 1 M. wide. Pop.
50,167. The Capitol, conspicuously situated on a hill, has' been
rebuilt since 1897 at a cost of $ 13,000,000. The dome is adorned
with paintings by Edwin Abbey. Opposite the W. facade is a Statue
of Gen. Hartranft (1830-89), by Ruckstuhl (1898). In State St. is
a War Monument, 110 ft. high. An enclosure in Harris Park con-
tains the grave of John Harris, father of the founder of the town,
and the stump of the tree to which he was tied by drunken Indians
(1718), who meant to burn him alive. The Susquehanna is crossed
here by four bridges.
Feom Haebisborg to Gettysburg, 46V2 M., railway in 2-2V3hrs. — The
train crosses the Susquehanna and runs to the S.W. — 2IV2 M. Carlisle
Junction, for a branch-line to (6 M.) Carlisle (see below). Near (22 M.) Mt.
Holly Springs we pass through a gap (1000 ft.) in the South Mountain. As we
approach Gettysburg we traverse the field of the first day's battle (see
pp. 193, 191). — 46V2 M. Gettysburg, see p. 192.
From Harrisbdrg to Winchester, 116 M., Cumberland Valley R. R. in 4.
41/3 hrs. This line traverses the fertile -Cumberland Valley, between the Blue
Mts., on the right, and the South Mountain, on the left. — The train crosses the
Susquehanna as above. — 18 M. Gettysburg Junction, for the line to Gettys-
burg (see above). — 19 M. Carlisle (480 ft. ; Wellington, S 2-2V2), a pleasant
little town of 9B26 inhab., with a Government Indian Training School, in
which about HOC young Indians are taught the arts and methods of civil-
ization. Carlisle was Washington's headquarters during the 'Whiskey War'
of 17H4, and it was captured by Gen. Lee in 1863. — About 5 M. beyond
(63 M.) Qreencastle the train crosses the famous Mason and Dixon's Line
(see p. 192) and enters Maryland ('Old Line State'), the northernmost of
the old slave-holdinsi states. — 74 M. Hagerstown (570 ft. ; Hamilton, $ 2V2-3,
well spoken of; Baldwin, $2-3), a town of 13,591 inhab., on the, Antietam,
is the junction of lines to Washington (p. 211), Harper's Ferry (via Wever-
ton; see p. 350, 3il), and the Shenandoah Valley (R. 96). It was a centre
of military operations in the Civil War. — At (8L M.) WiWamsport Gen. Lee
crossed the Potomac on his retreat after the battle of Gettysburg (p. 195).
We here enter West Virginia ('Pan Handle State'). — At (94 M.) Martins-
burg (635 ft.), on the Tuscarora, we intersect the B. & 0. R.R. (p. 351). —
116 M. Winchester.
From Harrisbdbg to Reading, 53V2 M., railway in 1V4-2 hrs. — The
chief intermediate station is (25 M.) Lebanon. — 53V.i M. Reading, see p. 186
From Harrisburg to Williamsport, 93 M., Northern Central Railroad
in 21/4-3 hrs. This railway ascends on the E. bank of the Susquehanna to
(53 M.) Sunbury (p. 185). Thence to (93 M.) Williamsport, see p. 185.
From Harrisburg to Baltimore., see p. 209.
Beyond Harrisburg thePenna. R. R. runs to the N. on the left bank
of the Susquehanna to (110 M.) Rockville, where it bends to the W.
and crosses the river by a bridge 2/3 M. long (*View). It then turns
to the N. again and passes ihe Dauphin Gap (350ft.). The river, now
to the right, is wide, shallow, and nearly choked with grassy islets.
Beyond (120 M.) Duncannon the line leaves the Susquehanna
and begins to ascend to the left through the valley of the 'beautiful
190 Route 22. ALTOONA. From Philadelphia
blue' Juniata, 'wMcli lias been the theme of more song and ro-
mance than almost any other American river' (Cook).
The ^Scenery along this river, as we cross ridge after ridge of the
Alleghenies, is of the most picturesque character; and the entire geological
formation of Pennsylvania is exhibited to the student (views chiefly to
the right). The district traversed is full of historical reminiscences of the
struggles of the early Scoto-Irish colonists with the Indians and of the
enterprise of David Brainerd and other missionaries. An immense traffic
in coal and iron is carried on by this line, and the coal-trains are some-
times of extraordinary length.
At (138 M.) Millerstown (410 ft.) we thread the* Tuscar or a Gap,
where the railway, river, road, and canal squeeze their way side by
side through a narrow defile. This lay in the land of the Tuscarora
Indians (see p. 130). Beyond (154 M.) Mifflin we pass through the
picturesque *Lewistown or Long Narrows, where the railway runs
for several miles along one side of the stream, with the road and
canal on the other. The slopes of the hills (1000 ft.) are covered
with slate de'bris. — i&Q M. Lewistown (500 ft.), a prosperous little
place with 4450 inhab., lies at the mouth of the Kishicoquillas Valley.
191 M. Mt. Union lies at the entrance of ^Jack's Narrows (600 ft.),
made by the river forcing its way through Jack's Mt. — 203 M.
Huntingdon (Leister, $ 2), the largest town on the Juniata (6053
inhab.), occupies the site of the 'Standing Stone', where the Indians
assembled for centuries to hold their grand councils .
A branch-line runs hence to (53 M.) Bedford, near which are Bedford
Springs (Bedford Springs Ho., $ 3V2-4 ; Chalybeate Hotel, $3).
At(209M.)P€ier56wr^(680ft.)we leave the canal, which follows
the Franktown branch of the river, and ascend the Little Juniata.
— At (222 M.) Tyrone (905 ft.) we reach the E. base of the main
range of the Alleghenies, turn sharply to the left (S.W.), and enter
the Tuckahoe Valley. Bald Eagle Valley opens to the N.E.
Tyrone is the outlet for the important Clearfield Coal Measures (bitu-
minous coal). — About 8 M. to the E. is the Sinking Valley, which takes its
name from the Sinking Spring, a singular underground watercourse.
From Tyrone the train runs along the base of the Alleghenies
(right) to (237 M.) Altoona (1180 ft.; Logan Ho., from $ 21/25 ^Ita-
mont Hotel, from $ 2, R. from $ 1 ; Railway Restaurant), a busy town
of 38,973 inhab., founded in 1850 by the Pennsylvania R. R. and
consisting almost wholly of its workshops and workmen's houses.
The works cover 242 acres, employ 11,500 men, and produce 300 locomo-
tives, 200 passenger-cari!, and 1500 freight-cars annually, besides being the
general repair-shops of the company. Some of the locomotives biiilt here
weigh 192 tons. — Those who wish to see the fine passage of the Alle-
ghenies by daylight may pass the night here. Good views are obtained from
Prospect kill to the S. and Gospel Hill to the N.
Beyond Altoona the train gradually ascends to the summit of
the mountains, climbing a gradient of 90 ft. to the mile. At(242M.)
Kittaning Point (1595 ft.) the line is carried round the famous
*Horseslioe Curve (views to the left), where the line crosses two ra-
vines on a lofty embankment and cuts away the promontory dividing
them. The sides of the curve are parallel, so that trains travelling
to Pittsburg. JOHNSTOWN. 22. Route. 191
the same way may be moving in opposite directions. A little farther
on we pass through a Tunnel^ 2/3 j|_ jgng and 2160 ft. above the sea,
crossing the Alleghenies and the watershed between the Atlantic and
the Mississippi. The top of the ridge is 210 ft. above the tunnel.
The descent on the W. slope of the mountains is less abrupt.
249 M. Gallitzin, at the W. end of the tunnel, is named in honour of
Prince Demetrius Gallitzin [d. 1840), who laboured as a missionary
in this district for 40 years. — From (252 M.) Cresson (2015 ft.)
coaches ply to Loretto, founded by Prince Gallitzin (see above). —
"We descend along the upper waters of the Conemaugh, and the
scenery increases in attractiveness. Numerous vestiges are seen of
the old Portage Railroad, which formerly served the traffic across
the Alleghenies by a series of inclined planes, communicating at
each end with canals. — Near (269 M.) Mineral Point (1415 ft.) we
cross the Conemaugh. Conemaugh Lake (1460 ft. ; see below) lies a
little to the left. 273 M. Conemaugh (1275 ft.).
275 M. Johnstown (1185 ft.; Merchants' Hotel, $2V2-5), an iron-
making city at the confluence of the Conemaugh and Stony Creek,
was founded in 1791 by a German pioneer, named Joseph Jahns. It
contains 35,936 inhab. and has to a great extent recovered from the
eifects of the inundation. The huge Cambria Steel Works, on the N.
side of the river, give employment to 8000 men.
A glance at the deep narrow valleys with their high enclosing walls,
at the junction of which the city lies, goes far to explain the possibility
of so tremendous a catastrophe as that which overwhelmed Johnstown
on May 31st, 1839. Conemaugh Lake (see above), 21/2 M. long and ii/2 M.
wide, was reserved as a fishing-ground by a club of Pittsburg anglers,
and its waters were restrained by a dam 1000 ft. long, 110 ft. high, 90 ft.
thick at the base, and 25 ft. thick at the top. A continuance of violent
rains filled the lake to overflowing, and all efforts to save the dam were
fruitless. The break occurred about 3 p.m., a gap of 300 ft being at once
formed. The water that burst through swept down the valley in a mass
V2 M. wide and 40 ft. high, carrying away everything in its way and
completely destroying Johnstown and the other towns and villages in its
track. The distance of 18 M. between Johnstown and the lake was traversed
in about 7 minutes. The mass of houses, trees, machinery, railway iron, and
human bodies was checked by the massive railway-bridge below Johnstown,
and soon caught fire, probably burning to death some hundreds of persons
imprisoned in the wreckage. The estimated loss of life varies from 2280
to 5O0O. The value of property destroyed was at least $ 10,000,000 (2,000,000Z.).
The train descends along the left bank of the Conemaugh.
295M.-BoZiucr(1030ft.) lies at the entrance to the beautiful *Pack-
saddle Narrows, where the river breaks through the Chestnut Range,
the W. ridge of the Alleghenies, which tower 1200 ft. above the water.
At (300 M.) Blairsville Intersection (1115 ft.) the line forks, the main
line leaving the Conemaugh and running direct to Pittsburg, while
the right branch runs via Blairsville to Allegheny City (p. 200).
The district we traverse as we approach Pittsburg is a veritable
'Black Country', full of coal-pits, coke-ovens, and smelting-furnaces.
313 M. Latrobe; 323 M. Greensburg (1090 ft.). We approach the
Monongahela at (344 M.) Braddock (15,654 inhab.), which marks
192 Route 23. GETTYSBUKG.
the scene of tlie memorable defeat of General Braddock on Jnly 9tli,
1755, on his expedition against Fort Duqnesne (see p. 197). It
was in rallying the defeated British forces that Washington won
his first military lanrels. The huge Edgar Thomson Steel Works are
situated here (see p. 200). — 347 M. Wilkimburg (926 ft.).
354 M. Pittsburg, see p. 197.
23. Gettysburg.
Oettysburg ia reached from New York via the Pennsylvania or the Read-
ing R. R. in TVz hrs. (fare $5.64), from Philadelphia via the same railways in
4V2-r>3/4 hrs. (comp. p. 1885 $2.97), and from Washington via Baltimore in
41/2-6V2 hrs. hy the Western Maryland or the Northern Central R. R. (comp.
p. 209).
Gettysburg (Eagle, Gettysburg, $ 2-3), a small town with (1900)
3495 inhab., lies about 40 M. to the S.W, of Harrishurg (p. 189) and
7 M. to the N. of the boundary between Pennsylvania and Maryland,
the famous Mason and Dixon's Line (p. 189), which, before the war,
marked the N. limit of slavery. On July lst-3rd, 1863, the vicinity
of this town was the scene of what is regarded as the chief contest
of the American Civil War and as the 'turning-point of the Rebellion'.
Many of the chief points are now accessible by electric railway.
The battle-ground covers about 25 sq. M. and lies mainly to the
S.W. of the town. The Gettysburg Battlefield Memorial Association,
an organization representing the soldiers engaged, has marked all
the important points by monuments placed on ground acquired for
the purpose. The tracts along the lines, aggregating 450 acres, are
the land upon which the most important movements were executed.
There are over 400 monuments on the field, erected with the utmost
care in the exact localities, and standing in woods or open fields,
by the roadside, on the stony ridges, in gardens, and being of all
designs, executed in bronze, marble, or granite. Over $7,000,000
has been expended on the grounds and monuments. Several iron
view-towers have been erected at the highest points. The battle-
field is probably better marked, both topographically and by art,
than any other battlefield in the world.
The long curving ridges and deep intervening valleys of the
Allegheny mountain ranges cross Central Pennsylvania, the South
Mountain ridge passing to the W. of Gettysburg with the Cumber-
land Valley beyond it, having two prominent towns, Chambersburg in
Pennsylvania and Hagerstown, near the Potomac River, in Maryland.
Two parallel ridges border the plain on which Gettysburg stands.
The long Seminary Ridge, stretching from N. to S. about a mile to
the W. of the town, gets its name from the Lutheran Theological
+ This account of Gettysburg was prepared for Baedeker''s Handbook
to the United States by Mr. Joel Cook, of the 'Philadelphia Public Ledger',
who was present at the battle as a special correspondent.
THE COUNTRY
firoiiLtli? Potomac to HaiTisl)iir » .
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BALTEVl
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5HINGTDX
3yrighi .ataxies Scrihiiers Sons
1 : 1.222.000
lO 20
GeoaiiAnst.vi'Wagnflr i Debes.Leipzis
':Miles
EiiiaLAttackortlipTirstDav,aiicLBattlfi of tLie SecoiucLDay.
npyriaTt.Chaiaps ScnbMr's Sons
G«>grAist-v:WagneriT)e"bes,T,erozig
ITie- /zrst dtzrsiattZe v; re/iresented nortJi of t/ie Jiurfieki cuid Sctnover roads.
J7i£seco^id dax^s ItairZi' .vozt£7i of &ie ?fiffie 70ccds .
TJhion troops
Con^derate- troops.
GETTYSBURG. 23. Route. 193
Seminary standing upon it; and the Cemetery Ridge, to the S. of the
town, which mns up its slopes, has, on its N. flat-topped hill, the
village cemetery, wherein the chief grave was that of James Gettys,
after whom the town was named. An outlying eminence known as
Gulp's Hill is farther to the E., making, with Cemetery Ridge, a
formation bent ronnd not unlike a fish-hook, with the cemetery at
the bend and Gulp's Hill at the barb, while down at the S. end of
the long straight shank with the intervening rocky gorge of the
'Devil's Den', nearly 3 M. away, are two peaks formed of tree-
covered crags, known as Little Round Top and Big Round Top. These
long ridges with the intervale and the country around them are the
battlefield, a topographical configuration displaying the ground to
great advantage, the many monuments marking the respective lines
of battle. Comp. Plan.
There were engaged in the battle about 80,^00 men on the Union side
and 73,000 Confederates the former having 339 cannon and the latter 293.
Generals George Gordon Meade and Robert Edward Lee were the respective
commanders, and it was among the most hotly contested battles of the
war and the largest in actual numbers engaged. The Union loss was
8072 killed, 14,497 wounded, and 5434 missing, a total of 23,003; and the
Confederate loss, 2592 killed, 12,709 wounded, and 515(i missing, total 20.461.
After their victory at Chancellorsville (p. n55) in May, 1863, the Con-
federates determined to carry the war to the N. into the enemy's country.
Lee gathered nearly 90,000 men at Culpeper (Va.), including J, E. B. Stuart's
cavalry force of 10,000 men. The Union army, commanded by General
Hooker, was then encamptd along the Rappahannock river, opposite Fred-
ericksburg (p. 555), 150 M. to the S. of Gettysburg, Lee started to the
N. across the Potomac, but Hooker did not discover it for some days, and
then followed him. The Confederates crossed between June 22nd and
June 25th and concentrated at Hagerstoton (p. 189), in the Cumberland
Valley, up which they made a rapid march, overrunning the entire coun-
try to the Susquehanna River (p. 184). Hooker was late in movement and
crossed the Potomac to the E. of Lee on June 28th, thus making a north-
ern race , with Lee in advance but on the longer route of the outer
circle. There were 10,000 Union troops in the garrison at Earper''s Ferry
(p. 351) on the Potomac, and Hooker asked that they be added to his
army 5 but the government declined, and Hooker immediately resigned his
command. He was succeeded by Gen. Meade, who thus on the eve of the
battle became the Union commander. This was on June 28th, when Meade
was near the Potomac, and Ewell with Lee's advance guard had gone up
the Cumberland Valley as far as Carlisle (p. 189) and was threatening
Harrisburg (p. 189). The main body of Confederates lay at Chamber sburg^
with nobody opposing them. Lee, then hearing of the Union pursuit and
being far from his base, determined to face about and cripple hia pur-
suers, fixing upon Gettysburg as the point of concentration. He ordered
Ewell to march to the S, from Carlisle and the others to the E. from
Chambersburg through the mountain-passes. Meade's cavalry advance un-
der Buford reached Gettysburg on June 30th, ahead of the Confederates,
and Meade's army was then stretched for 60 M. back towards the Poto-
mac. When he heard of Lee's changf^d tactics, Meade concluded that his
extended formation was too risky and decided to concentrate in a strong
position upon the Pipe Creole Hills in Maryland, about 15 M, to the S. of
Gettysburg. Thus the battle began with each army executing a move-
ment for concentration.
The battle opened on July 1st, the Union Cavalry to the "W. and N.
of Gettysburg becoming engaged with the Confederate advance approaching
from the passes through the South Mountain. The cavalry was at first
victorious but was afterwards overwhelmed by superior numbers, and
l'>'l Uouic 'j:t. (JKT'rY.smiKd.
Willi Ihrlr liiCaiilry Hiijn»<trld (iiKlor dm. Riyiiulih, wlm wiis UHUmI, worn
(Irlvrn Jiack MinniKli UoUyHliiirK In llif <(iii<l.niy luiil dnlp'H Hill. ThflHo
woro iiitiiiiinil liy fro.'ili lrii(t|iN Ihiil IiihI otui^ ti|>. Mcaiic' wim ul. IMpn ('lonk,
iiiyliiK mil tt iIcIViimIvo Uiio , wluii he liraid of |{.('y ikiIiIm' ilt'iith iiiiii ttio
.li'lrJll, .'Mill lie .Mcill lililKo.k (niwiM'l In lllkr (•imuiuin.i, wlin (li'IctiiiitiiMl
(lull, Iho Crinoli'ty IMil(i'' wiim IJic |il(ui' In ({I vr biiHlo. hwcll in llio iih-rh-
liiio IkuI rxlnii.l.'.l liU wlnK ••'•'""' '" '>'" '•:• "'" •' "'P'fl IHH "i>'l J»«"1«I
OollyNhmC ^ l>ii<. iii-.itv(\ i>|i(M'iil.l<>iin wrro niih|ioiu1o(1, and Imlli hIcIoh Hpoiil
(ho iiljfii), Bi'UhiK Iholr Inrotvi iiji.
'I'ho MiM'iiiiil (itiy <)|i('Ii(m1 Willi \)u\ i\ru\\v\n (MmrrcuiliiiK onch oilier In
lino ol' l»iiltl<\ llio I'nluii rnirco tildHK llio (5i'un'l«iry IMd^o, And l,li(\ (^on-
riMlnriilnH ii|miii Uir .SiMiiin.'uy iMd|{i< In llio W ntid alno HlroUli{ii|!: niiuul
llir(Mi«li (l.llyMlHiffj, (.(> Mk' N. Ill' llio ('iMii«'l.(iiy, W M. I.i> llio Iv ttlnuK l.ho
liftio 111 (Uii|i"M Hill. In lln' \i'ii\-' Inltrvoiiliin viilliy and iipun tli« rnvlnOM
Mild rtldprM oT IIka OrnirltMy IMdK(\ tiiiil (ItilpM Hill llir niiitii luilMt^ wiia
IimikIiI. I-<m> opriird llu\ nlliick l>y l-(»in.;Nl.ri'ol iidviincinf{ ukuIiimI. llii^ Iwo
KiHiiid 'I'lipN^ Ix'l' "l'<<^>' '> liloudv MliiiKK><> dx' I'tiioiiiNlM lirld (hriii. SIcklcA,
wlio lirld llio lino lo ilic S. of IdU.lo Round Top, thonL'lit he could Improve
hiN porilUoii hy tid vfiii(-.iti(-: */'j M . (ovvnrdH Hi^iniiitiry l(ld(tt\ ihii/< iiiiikiti|t A
hrokrii liiinn lino vvllh ti porlion thnmi oiil dan(.:rrou.><ly. 'I'he cnriny
(VII upon Mli-Ulo.'i, (ron(. nnd Ihiiik, aliiio;i(. ov<M-wlielinln|r hin lino In the
'I'r.'ii'h ()r<-litii-<r tiiid drlviiii; it hticU lo tlir tidJiiiMMil 'VVhrat Kirld'. Roin-
loi-1'i'iiiriit.rt wrio poiiroil In (iiid (Ikmo wii* » luil. conlllct, HlrklcH ln<ln|j
NrrloiiNly woundod and hid ^on•(^ alinoMl. rut (o plrooM.
l<;\voll tlioii iii.ido II tiM-rlll<- chtirfto Irotn out of (]ol tyAliurc npon tlio
(1oiiii>i(<i'y tijid Ciiip'M Mill wllli Iho M.oui.iiaiia TiKeiH' and othrr troo|i|i,
•'iVrotliiK II l«>d{}«Miiont, although Iho dolrndcrM wriiiiKlil i^n^nl havoc with
tholr heavy cannonado. 'I'ho Union f.uiiM on LIttIo Rnund Top having ul-
iliiiMioly cleared lh(< 'Wheal Klrld', the coinhiitanlji renletl; I ee, iiirtplritrd
hy hill pnrtlai Niiccerttie.i, dl^lenllln^n(.; lo renew the allack next luonilni;.
On the third and la.it d.iy (len. Meade opened llio coinhat hy driviin.:
lOwell'M (orcen Ironi ("ulp'.-i liili eaily in Ihe inornini;. Lee did not hear
of thlM> lull had an idea that hoth Ihe (inion ceiitri' ami ri^•.h^ wln^ had
heeii vveaken<«l ih(> prevlou.H day, and diiriiif.; the iiiKhl, hn jilanntul an attack
in Iront to he ald(<il hy a cavalry inovenienl round tliat wiiH' to iiH.iail
the roar, thii.s following up Kweli'd MuppoNed advantage. To nlvo StiiArt
with IiIh cavalry time to net around to th<i rear, th<» (ront attack wan not
nitido till afternoon. Macli rdde ^ot cannon in po.-illhin durluft Ihe morn-
ing, liCe havinji ViO Kun» aloni.; .Seminary lM(li»e , and Meade HO in Ihe
(leinetiMy and aloiij!, a low irregular Mtone pile, forming a intrl of rude
wall ah'iif. the Taiieytoun road leading to the H. from Oetlyjihurn. Ahout
I p.m. the (%infederal(Mi opeiieil lire, and the mont tirrillc artillery duel
of Ihe war followi'd acrojoi the interveiiiiiK valley, »ix kuun heiiii.- «I1m-
charged (>very (K'cond. The trotip.-i, lyiiiK low, Hiilhred llltle, hut .several
Union (.;»"■■' were di.tmounted. After twii hour«' denfeniiiK camiioiwuN" l,ee
or.loied hiM j-'ft""' attack, Ihe eelehrated char|{<> hy Urn I'IcKett. a force
of ll.lKXI nun with hrl^<.ad(< front advaneiiiK acro.i.i the valley. 'I'hey had
a mile to ({o , marchini; .swiftly, hut liefore they i;tit hallwav acro.sM, all
Ihe Ihiloii KUiiH wc^ro Iralned upon them. The attack wa.s <ilrerted nt an
umhrella .-ihAped dump of tn<(-M, at a low point of Ihe t^emetery RIdKO,
where the rude Ntone wall made an auKle with it.s pidnl out.iicle. llancocli
commanded thU portion nf the Union line, ami while th(^ (^:rape and cAiiititrr
of the cannonade ploiit\heil funnw.s throU|.'.h I'lckett'.i rankN, wlien Ihe
eolumn y.oi within MlH) yds., Hancock opem-d mu.ikelry lire with torrihle
elVect. TlitiU'iand.s fell, and the hri(.;adeB hroke In dl.tonler. hut tli«» ad-
vance, headed hy (Iimi. yVrmi.slcad on (oof, conllnued, nnd ahout UiO iikmi
leapl^d over the .■■toiK^ plh'N at lh(< an^le to capture the llnlon kuii.m. Lieut.
(^uiihinK, morlally wounded in hoth thl|.;h.s, ran hi.s hi.si Mcrvlceahle f.iin
toward,'! the wiill, and fdiouled («> hi.s commander 'VVehh, I will irive Ihem
one more Nhot'. He tired tlie ("un and «Hoil. ArmlHtoad put hln hand on
the cannon, waved hl.s iiword and called out, '|tive (hem the cold .ileel,
hoyN'i then pierced hy hulletii, he fell dead alounsldo tlu.shiiiu. Hoth lay
near Ihe clump.s of trees aho>il ilO yd.s. liouh' the wall, th«>lr c«trp.se.i mark-
(IKTTVSI'.dlKl. y;j. nnntf. 105
liiK tin' fart.lir;i», poltil. lo wlilrh rir,k«'if,'« iuIvium'.(\ inMiniralril , wlinn ili<-
'lll((li Wiiii^r Mnrk M(>iiiini(<nr now niArkn ilm t.o|i (if llio Hood l.i<l(' uT llir
rclirllloii, lor aCtriwiiifl^i (Imni wiim ii> fliciuly (ihlt. 'I'Ikmi^ wnn i\. Imtid lo
linnil fotilllcl,, Wclilt wa.M w<miiiiI(mI aixl aldo lliuuiock. ftrid Mm flliiii(/li(nr wmh
tlrradliil. 'I'lio ( 'onrt^doriiU'N w*ii'n ovcrwlirlnuwl, iiiul iiol, oiii'-l'oiirlJi of llui
Kiillaiil elm r^^ I II ^', ('oliiiiiii (■.oiiiiMijird ol llir (lowrr ol tJin Vlr^-.tiiln triMipn
oii('ii|>c(l, Ul<^ roiniiiint. rrliiniilliii'. in <l iMordrr. .SI.iiiirrM laviilry (hIIimI I,o
(•«Mi|i«rii(,<i, hiivliifi; imtix |i(>(l,rdly iiifl, l.liii llnldii «Mivali'y iiImhiI. 4 M. to Mm
[C. of ()(diyMliiiic., Kiid llic cDiinict, Unit. niiMtird pnui'iitiMl Uirlr MU.iii'kiiiK
l.liK I'nliin mir. All,i<r l'ir.hi-U,'fi ri'lrml. Ilirrn whm ti t''''''^'''!' Union n«l-
viini-c wliiih rioc.rd t.lll^ coniliiit.. i»iirliijr Uir nlnlit F,r'i' licirnn a ulrra),,
aiKJ iildrd liy (.li«<, Ikmi vy riilii'i iimiiii lly rulluwin*/, ((riiil liiiUloM, Ilic (tnnlVdrr
iil.r.M iicxi, (liiy willidi'cw llii'oii(rli l.hii tnoiMiiiiln-|iiot)!ivi lowiird.i lliii^'ci'ilown,
and iifli-rwardfi i mi iijuvl in ro/iM \,Ui\ I'oloiiiiic. TIki dav of I.cii'm rtjlii'at,
Vl( k'.|iiii-(( ,'iiirr)'iid<'i'rd l.o (Iimi. (linni, (mimi p. Ml] and flnvii^ two ((rent.
vrntft wiTK ilir li*-4'.iniiiti(r of t.liii < onf«<dri'a<'y'M dnwnlall.
'I'IiIh l)at,tl(<.M(>il<l In now c.ovrrod witli tnoiiiitnoiiiH aixi tnarkltig
pontH <lnKl^nal,in|.i; (,lio ponliloiiH of IImi o|>|ioHlti/^ iiriiiliiH. Mh Hiirvry Ih
lniHi bc|;,ini by n lour io tlui N. and W. of tlin l.own, llio Hcctir «»f f,li«
lliHl, (lay'H (Iglii. Tlici inon^ ln<,(^r<^nM>i; f(nir, liow«ivor, In t,o Uio H. from
<J<(,fyHltiirfj;. AHcorMJIiig Oriiuilory Hill W(< pawn liy fini roadMlilo flio
lioiiHd of .F«Miriy W/kIo, (.iinoiiiy wotnaii klllcH In llio IhiH.Io, iicrldcitf,-
ally hIioI, vvlillo liiikln|.«; brjuid. 'I'lio roiiiidod ( U«iiM«(,ory Hill ih a n»,rniig
iitid olovalod puHillnti l)<iarlii|;, many nioniiimiifH, and Imro, alonji;-
Hldo Uio llffii) villa|;;o-^ravoyanl, tlit^ <Joviirninoni Ikih a Niitlonal
OrriMifory of 17 acroH, win i«i IinT'i hoMUth aro burio.il, ov<>r 1000
boini;!; (ho unknown d(<ad. A mn^nifli-onf liaffli^ inonnnKUit, i'lHoHabov<!
rlicrri, Hiirnioiintod by a Mlat.nr of Idborty, and bavin/.-; ll/^iiroH <if War,
lIlHlory, roacii, and Plenty at, ibo hiimi of flm nbal<,. 'I'IiIh <-.liarrnlnK
Kpot, waH ih() ciiTitri) of {,\\ti Union lltu^, ilirii a rongb, rocky hill.
'I'liln cciiii'.tiM'y wiifl d«'.dlcnt,«id on Nov. IIK.Iij IHdII, lOdward ICvtM'iUi
dclivfrlnt^r i,\n\ oral.ioii i l.lir inotiniiicnl wioi di-dnati-d on .Inly Iftf, IHUt).
Tlir .(•innl.ioy lOfil, .$ Ifi/l (X)(). At. flir nircmony ol IIm drdlratioii l'ir«l«l(Uit,
Mnroln wan priyi(Uil., and madu t.lir fainon/i 'Iwrnly linn add ic-«m' wlilrli l«
i('Ki"i*d«'.d nn fini iiionl. iiiiiniirfnl iil.l.iM-ani ii of flio maityf. 'I'lin Wi»liiiiv»l4'r
Kiwiiw di'Mr.rilxd II. ivn an oriil.ion linviiiK liiil. onn <M|iial, in Mial. pi'ononni'.i'.d
upon tliofin wlni (i-ll dniin(r flin lii-fd, y<-a,r of llir I'dloiioiini-nian War, and
».« Iiiiiti(/; It.M Hiip«iilor, Iprcaioir 'natural, fuller of fi-i-llnj',, iiion- foiicliliifr
and pailirt.il-., and wr know willi an alifloliil.ii ii'rlalnty l.liaf il. waa rrnlly
deli vrmd'. Tho I'ri-dldmit., wlnn in(|iir«tcd to (tay ii. low wordH hy way ol
<lrdlc,iilioii, drew from liln pocUi't a ci iiinplc.d plcco of papiT,|oii wlilr.li li«
liiul written iioiiin tnd.e./i, and Mpokci iim follnw.'i |
'I'^oiriicorc and firvrri ymni nf/o our fallii'irH iiroiii»lil. fio th upon fliin
eoiifliKint a new niilinn, iimi-el v«id in lllierl.y, and deille.alril to tlm pro-
pOMilloii tliiit all men aro e.renlrd eijiiiil. Now we arc on^,ii({ed in ii. ^nat
O.lvil war, teMtliiK wlietlior tiiat. nation, or any nation, mo loiieelved and ho
dedicated ran Ioiik eiidnrn. Wn n ro met "on n yjt'tvi Inittledeld of ttial.
war. Wn am met to dodicate a portion of It an the llrial leMtliu; plain of
thoMii who here Kavn tli.lr Mve,'i that that nation mlnht live. It Ih alto-
gether llttluK and proper lliat we rihoiild do tlild. Hii|,', In n, lar^'M-Metimi,
wn cannot, dedicate, we cannot c.oiifle.cralo, we i.nnnot hallow ihiM ({round.
The lirave men, IIvIhk and dead, who wtniKK''!'' •"'"''i bavo c.on/iecrii.ted 11,
far above our power to add or detract, 'fho world will little, noto nor
loiiK remiunlier what we nay here, hut It can nnver forget what (hey did
here. It III for ii.h , the living, rather to be dedicated 'here l.o tlie iin-
(Inlnhnd work that (hey have thioi (ar «o nobly carried on. It l/i rather
for iiH to he here iledlciited to the |/reat tank remiilnin({ before UM that from
(hivte lionoiirnd dead we talie incren/ieil devotion to the caiiiie for whleh
196 Route 23. GETTYSBURG.
they here gave the last full measure of devotinu — that we here highly
resolve rh;it the dead .-hall tiot have died in vain— thai the nation shall,
under God, have a new birth of ireedom, and that g -vernment of ihe
people, by tbe people, for the pe>'ple, shall not perish from the earth."
From the cemetery the Lutheran seminary is seen a mile across
the valley, the most conspicuous landmark of the Oonfelerate line.
Gulp's Hill is to the S.E., strewn with boulders an I timber-covered,
the trees still showing marks of the fighting. The Euimett-burg road
goes down the valley, gradually diverging from the Union line and
crossing the fields that were the battle-ground on the 2nd and 3rd
days. Many monuments line the road, some of great merit, and it
leads to the 'Peach Orchard', where the line bends sharply ba'k.
Peach-trees are constantly replanted here as the old ones fall. The
'wheat-field' alongside is now a meadow; and beyond we go down
among the crags and boulders of the 'Devil's Den', a ravine through
which flows a stream coming from the orchard and wheat-field and
separating them from the rocky 'Round Tops', the beetling sand-
stone crags of 'Little Round Top' rising high above the ravine. The
sloping fields along the stream above the Den are known as the 'Valley
of Death'. Many monuments among these rocks have been made
with the boulders that are so numerous. 'Big Round Top' beyond
is mounted by a toilsome path, and an Observatory on the summit
gives a good view over the surrounding country and almost the en-
tire battlefield. The summit, more than 3 M. to the 8. of Gettys-
burg, has tall timber, preserved as in the battle. Cannon surmount
the 'Round Tops', representing the batteries there during the battle.
To the W., across the valley, is the long fringe of timber that masked
the Confederate position on Seminary Ridge. A picnic ground has
been located alongside the 'Round Tops', with access by railway ;
and large parties frequently visit this spot during the tourist-season.
The lines of breastworks are retained, and not far away, upon the
lower ground, are preserved the stone walls and the little umbrella-
shaped grove of trees mentioned at p. 194. The 20th Massachusetts
Regiment have brought hither a huge conglomerate boulder from
their New England home and set it up as their monument. Their
colonel, Paul Revere, was killed in the battle. Crossing the valley,
the tourist returns to the N. along the Confederate line, where,
however, there was no fighting until the scene of the first day's
conflict is reached, to the W. of Gettysburg. Here a plain granite
stone marks where Reynolds fell, just within a grove of trees. Rey-
nolds, from his untimely death, is regarded as the Northern hero of
the battle, as Armistead was the Southern. Near by the 'Massa-
chusetts Colour-bearer' (p. 341) holds aloft the flag of the i3th
Mass. Regiment, standing upon a slope alongside the railway, this
striking monument marking the spot where he fell at the opening
of the battle.
«7l«- JSjf*-
r t ^\ ircL
197
24. Pittsburg.
Railway Stations. The chief are the Union Station (PI. D, 3), of the
Penna. R. R., for trains to Cincinnati, St. Louis, Chicago, Kew York, etc.,
the Baltimore & Ohio or Monongahela Depot (PI. C, 4), for the B. & O. lines,
th.^ Httsbury and Lake Erie i)epoMPl- C, 4), for trains to Cuicitgo, Buitalo.
New York, etc., and tue Wubush Station (PI. C, 3), for the Wabash lines.
Hotels FoKT Pitt (PI. d; D. 6), R from $ I'/z; Lincoln (PI h; CJ, 3),
423 Peiin Ave., trorn $ d, R frnm $ IV2; Henry (PI. i ; C 3) 415 Fifth Ave.,
R. from $11/2; *-icHKNLEr, a large house ne<ir Schenley Par ^ (beyond PI,
F, 3), about 2 M. from the centre of the city 1 motor bus fr m the station),
from S ci>/2, H. from $ IV'^i onongahela (PI. a-, C, 3), pleasantly situated
at the river-end of SmithMeld St., S3-4; Anderson (I'l. b; C, 3), centrally
situated but somewhat noisy, $3-5; DuyUESNE (PL c; C, 8), Smithtield t.;
Ne well's, 343 Fifth Ave., ti. f, om $ 1V2 - Geiswold CPl. e; C, 3), Smith-
field St., R. from $ I; Lorkaine, North Highland Ave., a ^ood famih hotel,
$ 21/^-4; Seventh Avenue PI. g; U, 3), $21/2-31/2, St. Chables (PL f; C, 3),
$2-3; Colonial, with annex. Sixth 8t., §2-3.
Restaurants. * Fort Pitt Hotel (see above); "Union Restaurant ^ Frick
Building (p. 199); Farmers Bank Restaurant^ Fifth Ave. ; McCreery^s^ in Mc-
Creerv s Store, Wood St. and Sixth Ave ; Mxon, in Nixon Theatre Building.
Tramways (electric) run through the chief streets and to the -uburbs.
— Inclined Railways (10 in all), a characteristic feature of Pittsburg, lead
to various points on the enclosing hills.
Theatres. Nixon (PL 6; D, d); Bijou (PL 2; C, 3); Alvin (PL 1; C, 3);
Ch-and (PL 6; C, 3); Duquesne (PL 3; C, 3); Gaiety (PL 4; C, 3).
Post Office (PL C, 3), Smithfield St., cor. of 4th AVg
Fittshurg (745 ft.), the second city of Pennsylvania and one of the
chief industrial centres of the United States, occupies the tongue of
land between the Monongahela and the Allegheny^ which here unite to
form the 0/iio, and also a strip of land on the S. side of the Mononga-
hela. The sister city of Allegheny (p. 200), situated on the N. bank
of the Allegheny and extending down to the Ohio, was incorporated
with Pittsburg in 1907 and is now known as the North Side. Pop.
(1900) of Pittsburg 321,616, of Allegheny City 129,896 ; in 19U8
the united cities contained at least 550,000 inhabitants. The point
of the tongue is quite flat, and also the immediate river-banks 5 but
the tongue rises rapidly towards its root, and there are only narrow
strips of level ground between the rivers and the abrupt heights on
the S. side of the Monongahela and the N. side of the Allegheny.
The residential quarters are mainly on the highlands of Pittsburg
to theE. and those of Allegheny to the N. The rest of the delta and
the river-banks are given over to manufacturing and are generally
covered wiih a pall of dense black smoke. The rivers are crossed
by numerous bridges.
Pittsburg occupies the site of the French Fort Duquesne, erected in
1754 and abandoned on the advance of Gen. Forbes in 1758. Its place
was taken by the English Fort Pitt (see p. 199), and the laying out of the
town of Pittsburg may be dated from about 1765. Its early importance
was due to its trade with the Indians, and its commercial advantages are
still conspicuous; but the great basis of the prosperity of the 'Iron City
t Pittsburg itself keeps Eastern Time, but trains starting here for the
W. do 80 on Central Time (see p. xiv). Thus a train timed to start for
Chicago at 11 p.m. starts at midnight by the clocks in the hotels.
198 Route 24. PITTSBURG. History.
has been the fact that it stands in the centre of one of the richest coal
districts in the globe, the four counties immediately adjoining Pittsburg
yielding ca. 52,( 00,000 tons of coal in 1907. Pittsburg also stands in the
centre of the chief natural gas district (see below), and the use of this as
fuel gave a great impetus to its manufacturing industry, though it is now
mainly used for domestic purposes. The iron ore, of which Pittsburg uses
about 8,UO;!,000 tons annually, comes chiefly from Lake Superior (p. 396).
The Pennsylvania, New York, W. Virginia, and E- Ohio oil-fields lie
mainly in the basin of the Allegheny and Ohio Rivers to the N.E., S.,
and S.W. of Pittsburg and in 1907 yielded 25,500,000 barrels of petroleum.
The staple manufactures of Pittsburg are iron, steel, and glass (comp.
p. 200). The total value of its manufactures in 1900 was $203,261,251.
Natural Gas is one of the gaseous members of the paraffin series
(of which petroleum is a liquid member) and consists mainly of marsh
gas, the 'fire damp' of the miner. Its origin is the decomposition of forms
of animal or vegetable life, and it is stored under pressure below strata
of rock, being set free when those are pierced. Usually it has but little
odour. ^Natural gas has been known to exist in America for over a
century, but the first economical use of it was made in 1821, when the
town of Fredonia, New York, was lighted with the product of a small
well. Its use in iron-making in Western Pennsylvania began in 1874 at
the mills of Leechburg. 34 M. above Pittsburg. It was first used in Pitts-
burg itself in 18^6, when the gas from the Haymaker Well in AJurrysville,
the chief field of supply for Pittsburg, was conveyed in pipes to the city, a
distance of 19 M. The annual consumption of natural gas at Pittsburg
at present may be estimated at about 100,000,000,000 cubic ft., fully one-
half of which is used for domestic purposes. Its price is 25 c. per 1000
cubic ft. to private individuals, and 7-15 c. to manufacturers. There is no
question but that the supply is gradually giving out; and it is already too
high-priced for the rolling mills, which are reverting to coal and other
forms of fuel gas. The illuminating power of natural gas is low. About
1200 m. of piping are used in leading the gas to Pittsburg, in about 7 dif-
ferent lines. The pressure at the wells averages 100 lbs. per sq. inch and
has been measured up to 700 lbs. In fuel value 12 cubic ft. of gas are equal
to 1 lb. of coal. The process of drilling for gas is similar to that of
drilling for petroleum. Those who wish to visit a gas-well (of no great
interest) should apply at the office of the Philadelphia Co.. 437 Sixth Ave.
Smithfield Stkbet (PI. C, D, 3), diverging from Lilerty Avenue
(PI. B-F, 3-1), not fax from the Vnion Stationlvi. D, 3), leads to the
liverMonongahela; and the visitor is recommended to begin by follow-
ing this street to the (V2 M.) bridge (tramway) and crossing it to ob-
tain the view of the city from Washington Heights. On the way we pass,
to the right, the City Hall (PI. C, 3). A little farther on, to the left, is
the Post Office (PI. C, 3). At the bridge are (r.) the Monongahela Hotel
(p. 197) and (1.) the Baltimore ^^ Ohio Station (PI. C, A; p. 197).
Crossing the Smithfield Street Bridge (PI. C, 4), we should ascend
to the top of Mt. Washington (370 ft.) by one of the three Inclined
Railways (5 c.) on this side. These interesting, but at first somewhat
startling, pieces of apparatus are worked by cables (not cog-wheels)
and transport horses and carriages as well as persons.
The *View from the top of the busy cities of Pittsburg and Allegheny,
the three rivers, and the encircling hills, all more or less enveloped in
smoke, is highly imposing and picturesque. The deep basin in which Pitts-
burg lies has suggested the name of 'Hell with the lid ofT. The view is
most extensive on Sun., owing to the absence of smoke.
The finest building in Pittsburg is the 'Allegheny County
Court House (PL C, D, 3), in Grant St., a splendid example of
Carnegie Institute. PITTSBURG. 24. Route. 199
H. H. Bichardson^s treatment of Romanesque, erected in 1888 at a
cost of $ 2,500,000 (500,000i.)- The massive Gaol is connected witli
the Conrt House by a finely handled stone bridge. The main tower
(*View) is 320 ft. high. The three entrances in the chief fagade seem
somewhat low and depressed for the size of the building.
The only remnant of Fort Pitt (PI. B, 3; p. 197) is an old Block
House, at the end of Penn Ave. (tablet, 1764). Hard by, on the
Allegheny River, are the Exposition, Buildings (PI. B, 3), in which
annual exhibitions are held.
The Pennsylvania Incline (PI. E, 2), 17th St., is interesting from
the manner in which it is led down over the top chord of the bridge
spanning the Pennsylvania Railroad at its foot. — Other buildings
of importance are the Friek Building, a granite office-structure of
20 stories at the comer of Fifth Ave. and Grant St. (PI. C, 3);
the Carnegie Building and the Farmers' Bank Building (these two
also in Fifth Ave.) ; the Union National Bank Building and the
Commonwealth Trust Co. Building, in Fourth Ave. 5 Trinity Church
(PI. C, 3) and the First Presbyterian Church,m Sixth Ave. ; the Fulton
Building (PI. 0, 3); and the Bessemer Building (the last two at the
corner of Sixth St. and Duquesne Way). More to the E. are the
Academy of Our Lady of Mercy (PI. F, 3) and the new Calvary
Episcopal Church (at the corner of Shady Ave. and Walnut St.), a
beautiful example of 13th cent. Gothic by Ralph Adams Cram. The
R. C. Cathedral of St. Paul also stands in Fifth Avenue, at the cor.
of Craig St., about 1 M. beyond our plan.
To the E. of the city lies Schenley Park (beyond PI. F, 2, 3),
given to the city by Mrs. Mary E. Schenley and containing the fine
Phipps Conservatory and the Hall of Botany, both presented by
Mr. Henry Phipps. — Near the Forbes St. entrance to the Park is
the great central building of the *Carnegie Library of Pittsburg,
given to the city by Mr. Andrew Carnegie, in which are housed not
only the main collection of the Library, but also two of the three de-
partments of the Carnegie Institute, The structure, originally built
in the Italian Renaissance style in 1892-95 at a cost of $ 800,000,
was remodelled and enlarged in 1904-7 at an additional cost of
$ 5,000,000. Branch-libraries have also been provided at a further
cost of about $ 650,000. The Library operates more than 170 agencies
for the free distribution of literature within Greater Pittsburg.
About one half the space in the enlarged building is occupied by the
Library (280,000 vols.) and the Music Hall (2200 seats). The other half is
occupied by the Department of Fine Arts and the Natural History Museum
of the Institute. The collection of paintings consists mainly of French and
American works. The grand staircase is being adorned with mural paint-
ings by John W. Alexander. The Technical Schools form a third department
of the Institute, and have buildings of their own in the Park, a short
distance from the Library building.
The new buildings of the University of Pittsburg (1050 students) are
also in Schenley Park.
To see the pleasant residence-quarters on the hills, we take a
Babdekee's United States. 4th Edit. 13
200 Route ^4. PITTSBURG. North Side.
Highland Avenue Electric Car, alight at its terminus, and walk up
to (1/4 M;.) Highland Park (5 M. to the N.E. of the City Hall), which
commands a fine *Yiew, especially of the Allegheny. The park
contains the town-ieservoirs and a good zoological collection. We
may return to Pittsburg by the Negley Ave. cars.
No one should leave Pittsburg without visiting one at least of
the great iron and steel works which have made its prosperity and
reputation. Among these are the Edgar Thomson Steel Works, the
Homestead Steel Works, the Duquesne Steel Works, the American
Bridge Co., the Jones ^ Laughlins Works, the Oliver Iron ^ Steel Co.,
the Crescent Steel Works, and the Pressed Steel Car Co.
Those who wish to visit the four first-named works apply for a pass
at the office of the Carnegie Steel Co., Carnegie Building, Fifth Ave.
(PI. C, 3). Half-a-day at least should be allowed for the visit. Perhaps
the best way is to go to Bessemer, on the Penna. R. R. (from Union Sta-
tion); visit the Edgar Thomson Works; proceed thence by the tramway
passing the works to Munhall (5 c), alighting at the gate of the Homestead
Works ; take the tramway thence to Duquesne (5 c), getting olf at the entrance
to the Duquesne Steel Works; and return to Pittsburg by the Penna. R. R.
to Fourth Ave. or Union Station. — The Edgar Thomson "Works have an
annual capacity for the production of 1,100,000 tons of metal, their chief
product being steel rails. They include an interesting installation for the
cleansing of blast furnace gas for use in gas engines. The Homestead
Steel "Works have an annual capacity of 400,000 tons of Bessemer steel and
1,500,000 tons of open hearth steel. Large quantities of nickel-steel armour-
plates are made here. ISatural gas is largely used for fuel at both works.
The two works employ about 6000 men. The Duquesne Steel "Works, on
the Monongahela, 3 M. above Homestead, have four of the greatest blast
furnaces in the world, producing 2200 tons of pig iron per day. — The
American Bridge Works at Ambridge, on the Ohio, 20 M. below Pittsburg,
are the largest and most modern works of the kind in the world.
The American Iron & Steel "Works (Jones <b Laughlins) lie on both banks
of the Monongahela, which is crossed by a bridge 1090 ft. long. They in-
clude the largest rolling-mill in the world. Other works of the same
company are situated at Aliquippa, on the Erie R. R. — The Westinghouse
Electrical Works at East Pittsburg also repay a visit.
The Pittsburg Plate Glass Works and the MacUth Glass Works (pro-
ducing 50,000 dozen lamp-chimneys per week) are at Charleroi, 40 M. up the
Monongahela, and maybe reached either by train or boat (see below). —
Glass works at Ford City, see p. 201.
Allegheny City or North Side (Hotel Federal), on the N. bank of
the Allegheny, offers few attractions to the visitor. The value of its
manufactures in 1900 was $ 54,137,000. Taking a tramway-car in
6th St. (PI. C , 3), we cross the river and follow Federal St. to the
City Hall and the "^Carnegie Free Library (PI. C, 2). In front of the
latter stands a monument to Col. James Anderson (1785-1861), by
D. C. French. Thence we may follow Ohio St. to the S.W., passing
St. Peter's Church, to the Park (PI. B, 2). To the left rises a hill
crowned by the Soldiers' Monument (PI. B, 2), to which we should
ascend for its *View of the two cities. The Western Penitentiary is
so called in contradistinction to the Eastern Penitentiary at Phila-
delphia (p. 168).
River Navigation. Through the Monongahela, Allegheny, and Ohio
more than 20,000 M. of inland navigation are open to the steamers of the
cities of Pittsburg and Allegheny, and regular communication is thus
Environs. PITTSBURG. ^4. Boute. 201
kept up with New Orleans j^ 631), 2000 M. distant. The tonnage of the
river-craft of Pittsburg (4,000,000 tons) is said to be greater than that of
New York or all the Mississippi ports put together. This is owing to
the enormous coal traffic , and stern- wheel tug-boats may frequently
be seen conveying a train of barges with a total cargo of 25,000 tons of
coal. — By the construction of a series of six large dams on the Ohio, at a
cost of at least § 5,000,000, the harbour of Pittsburg practically extends to
(30 M.) Merrill. Much has also been done to improve the navigation of
the Monongahela and the Allegheny.
A trip up the Monongahela by steamer, as far as Monongahela Oity or
Brownsville^ is very interesting. The river is lined with coal 'tipples'.
Fbom Pittsbukg to Connellsville, either by the S. W. Pennsylvania
R. R. (56 M.) or by the B. d: 0. R. R. (57 M.) , in l^/rS hrs. — Connells-
ville (Yough Ho., $2), a town of 7160 inhab., on the YoughiogJieny, lies
in the midst of one of the two chief coke regions in the world, the other
being that of Durham, England. About 20,0(X),000 tons of coke are pro-
duced here annually.
Fbom Pittsburg to Buffalo, 269 M., Pennsylvania R. R. in 8-83/4 hrs.
This line runs through one of the chief petroleum districts, and numerous
oil-wells, in operation or deserted, are passed. Petroleum is obtained
from oil-bearing sands by pipes of varying diameter, sunk to a depth of
300-3000 ft. The oil is transmitted to the large storage tanks of the Pipe
Line Companies by pipe lines, which are sometimes hundreds of miles
long. — The railway at first follows the Allegheny River. 41 M. Ford City,
with the largest plate- glass works in the world (64 acres under roof). —
132 M. Oil City (Arlington, $2-3), a city of 13,26i inhab., is the great centre
of the Oil District, and all the processes of procuring, preparing, and
shipping the oil may be conveniently observed here. In 1892 Oil City was
the scene of a terrible disaster, caused by the catching fire of a large
petroleum tank. The burning oil, overspreading the water in the creek,
set fire to many buildings and caused the loss of many lives. — The
train now follows the valley of Oil Creek, with many abandoned wells.
It is calculated that somewhere about 1865 this valley, between Oil City
and Titusville, contained 75,000 people. At least 60 million barrels of oil
valued at $ 2()0,000,(XX), were taken from the valley in ten years. The
present yield is insignificant. — 148 M. Titusville (Mansion Mo., § 2), with
8244 inhab., is another busy oil-centre. — 175 M. Corry (p. 187). — 205 M.
Mayville (Peacock Inn, from $ 2), at the head of Chautauqua Lake (1300 ft.),
is the junction for (4 M.) Chautauqua (see pp. 231, 232). — 219 M. Bvocton,
and thence to (269 M.) Buffalo, see R. 50a.
Fbom Pittsbubg to Eeie, 148 M., Pennsylvania R. R. in 4^/4-51/3 hrs. —
17 M. Economy, a picturesque village on a plateau above the Ohio, owned
by the Harmonists, or disciples of Father Rapp. Most of the houses are
now rented to outsiders, as the community has dwindled to a mere handful.
— 25 M. Rochester (p. 349); 47 M. Lawrence Junction; 92 M. Jamestown;
133 M. Qirard, and thence to (148 M.) Erie, see R. 50a.
Fbom Pittsbubg to Cleveland, 150 M., Pennsylvania R. R. in 31/2-6 hrs.
(B. & 0. R. R. in about the same time). — This line diverges from that to
Erie at (25 M.) Rochester (see above). 48 M. Wellsville; 93 M. Alliance
(p. 349); 124 M. Hudson. — 150 M. Cleveland, see p. 353.
Fbom Pittsbubg to Wheeling, 68 M., Baltimore dc Ohio R. R. in 2-23/4 hrs.
— Wheeling, see p. 352.
From Pittsburg to CoZ«m6t« and Cfrtcfraw«W,seeR. 48b; to C%ic«5ro,seeR. 48b.
25. From Philadelphia to Baltimore.
Comp. Map, p. 156.
96 M. Pennsylvania Railway in 2-3V4hrs. (fare $ 2.40; parlor-car 50 c).
From New York (186 M.) in 41/4-6 hrs. (fare $4.65). — The Baltimobe <fe
Ohio R. R. follows almost the same route (similar times and fares), starting
from the 24th & Chestnut Sts. Station (p. 158) and running to the Mt. Royal
and Camden Stations at Baltimore (p. 202).
13*
202 Route 25. WILMINGTON.
Philadelphia (Broad St. Station), see p. 158. The train crosses
tlie Schuylkill and runs to the S.W., not far from the W. bank of the
Delaware. 1 M. West Philadelphia (j^. ill). 'The University of Penn-
sylvania (p. 171) and the Blockley Almshouses (p. 172) are seen to
the right. I31/2 M. Chester^ with the Pennsylvania Military Academy
and 83,988 inhab. , was settled by the Swedes in 1643. Between
(17 M.) Linwood and (19 M.) Claymont we cross a small stream and
enter the State of Delaware ('Diamond State'). Farther on we cross
the Brandywine (see below) and reach —
27 M. Wilmington [Clayton Ho., $ 21/2; Wilmington, $ 2-31/2),
the chief city of Delaware, situated at the confluence of the Dela-
ware, BrandyAyine, and Christiana, with 76,508 inhab. and exten-
sive manufactures, including the making of iron, steel, carriages,
railway-cars, iron and wooden ships, gunpowder (Dupont Works),
morocco and other leather, and cotton goods (total value in 1900,
$ 28,372,000). The Old Swedes Church (seen to the right as we enter
the station) dates from 1698 and marks the site of the first Swedish
colony in America and the first permanent European settlement in
the valley of the Delaware (1638). At the entrance of Rockford Park
is a bronze statue of Thomas F. Bayard (1828-96), a native of Wil-
mington, by Miss Effle Stillman (Mrs. Wm. Ritchie), erected in 1907.
Pictiiresque walks may be taken in the *Olen of the Brandywine (public
park). — Tht Battle of the Brandywine, in which WasMngton was defeated
by the English in Sept., 1777, was fought about 13 M. to the N.W. _
Feom Wilmington to Cape Chaeles, 192 M., railway in 51/2 hrs. This
line, which descends the narrow peninsula to the E. of Chesapeake Bay
(p. 208), is of some importance as forming part of a through-route from
New York to Old Point Comfoii. (p. 5685 IOV2-II hrs.) and as a means of
bringing fruit and vegetable supplies to the !S'orthern cities. It runs
through the famous peach district of Delaware. One perfectly straight
section of this line, 90 31. long, is said to be the longest tangent in the
United States. iS'ear (140 M.) Makemie Park is the grave of Francis Makemie
(d. 1708), the founder of organized Presbyterianism in the United States.
From (192 M.) Cape Charles steamers ply to (24 M.) Old Point Comfort
(p. 563) and (36 M.) Norfolk (p. 561).
Beyond (39 M.) Newark , the seat of Delaware College (120
students), the train crosses the famous Mason ^ Dixon's Line (p. 192)
and enters Maryland (p. 189). Near (51 M.) North-East we see Chesa-
peake Bay (p. 208) to the left. — About 4 M. to the N. W. (railway)
of (59 M.) Perryville is Port Deposit (Falls Ho., $ 2), on the Susque-
hanna, with the Jacob Tome Institute, a large and richly endowed
school for boys. — At (61 M.) Havre-de- Grace, with its great shad-
fishery, we cross the wide Susquehanna, which here enters the head
of Chesapeake Bay. Farther on we cross several wide shallow rivers
or arms of the Bay.
96 M. Baltimore (Union Station), see p. 203.
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203
26. Baltimore.
Railway Stations. Union or Charles Street Station (P] . C, D, 2, 3), for
the Penna. Railroad and its branches, incl. the N. Central and P. B. & W.
R. R., and also for the W. Maryland R. R. ; Camden Station (PI. C, 5, 6),
Camden St., for the B. & 0. lines; Mt. Royal Station (PI. C, 3), cor. Mt. Royal
Ave. and Cathedral St., also for B. & 0. trains (comp. p. 208); Calvert St.
Station (PI. D, 4), for trains of the Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington,
and the N. Central lines; Hillen St. Station (PI. D, 4), for the W. Maryland
R. R.; North Avenue Sintion (PI. C, 2), for the Maryland and Penna. R. R. ;
Station of Washington, Baltimore, dt Annapolis Electric Railway., Park Ave.,
cor. of Liberty St. (PI. C, 5). — Cab to hotel 25 c. for each person.
Hotels. *Belvedeee (PI. m; C, 3), S.E. corner of CharJe^ and Cba.se Sts.,
R. from $2; *Stafford (PI. e; C, 4), cur. of Charles and Madison Sts., R.
from $ IV2; "Hotel Renneet (PI. a; C, 4), cor. of Saratoga and Liberty Sts.,
R. from SlVz; St. Jasies (PI. c; C, 4), cor. of Charles and Centre Sts., R.
from $ 1; Kebsan, Franklin St. (PI. C, 4), R. from $11/2; Caswell, cor. of
Baltimore and Hanover Sts. (PI. C, 5), R. from $1, these iwo commercial;
ECTAW House (PI. d; C, 5), Eutavr St.. S3; Howard, Howard St., near Balti-
more St., R. from $ IV2; Sheewqod, 210 Monument St., a good family hotel.
Restaurants. At the Belvedere, Sia_ftord, St. James, and Rennert Hotels,
see above; restaurants at Union and Camden Stations; Woman's Exchange,
cor. Charles and Pleasant Sts. (for ladies); Crown Luncheon Rooms, 225 Balti-
more St. and 221 W. Lexington St., the latter frequented by ladies; Kelly''s
Oyster Saloon, 9 N. Eutaw St.; Raleigh, near City Hall, D. 50 c. ; Childs''
(comp. p. 14), 18 N. Charles St., cor. of Fayette St.; Dennett's (p. 14), 308 W.
Baltimore St. ; Horn & Horn, 304 E. Baltimore St. ; Dutch, Tea Room, 314 N.
Charles St., much frequented by ladies for tea or luncheon.
Tramways (5 c.) traverse the chief streets and run to various suburbs.
The cars of each route are designated by a separate century (0, 100, 200, etc.).
Cabs. Within district bounded by Broadway, Iforth Ave., Pennsylvania
Ave., Fremont St., Arlington Ave., Cross St., and the Harbour, each pers.
25c. By time 75 e. per hr. To Druid Hill Park, 1-2 pers. $11/2, 3-4 pers.
$2. Hacks (with two horses) 50-75 c. for 1 pers., each pers. addit. 25c.,
per hr. $ l^/z. Night-fares higher.
Theatres. Academy of Music (PI. C, 4; prices $ V4-IV2); Ford's Grand
Opera House (PLC, 5); Maryland Theatre (vaudeville), Franklin St., near
Eutaw St. (PI. C, 4); Auditorium, adjoining the Academy of Music (see
above); Holliday Street Theatre {Vl. D, 5); AlbaugKs Lyceum (PI. C, 3); Lyric
(PI. C, 3), opposite Mt. Royal Station, for concerts and public meetings.
Post Office (PL D, 5), Battle Monument Sq.
Consuls. British, Mr. Gilbert Eraser, 418 Courtland St.; German, Mr.
K. A. Luderitz.
Baltimore (tlie ^Monumental City') , the chief city of Maryland
and one of the great seaports of America, is finely situated on the
broad estuary of Patapsco River, 14 M. from Chesapeake Bay (p. 208)
and 204 M. from the Atlantic Ocean. The city, which is well laid
out and built mainly of a cheerful red brick, is divided into two
sections by a stream named Jones's Falls, toward which the ground
slopes rapidly on either side. In 1900 Baltimore contained 508,957
inhabitants. The Roman Catholic Archbishop of Baltimore (Card.
Gibbons) is Primate in the United States.
Baltimore was first laid out a^ a town in 1729, and received its name
from the title of the Barons of Baltimore (Co. Longford, Ireland), founders
and proprietaries of the Maryland Colony. In 1780 it had grown sufficiently
in importance to be made a port of entry, and it was incorporated as a
city in 1796. After the conclusion of the war of 1861-65 its population
rapidly increased, and of late years several populous suburbs have been
included in its limits. Baltimore has been in one respect more fortunate
than other cities of the Southern States. During the War of Independence
204: Route 26. BALTIMORE. Mt.Vernon Place.
it was threatened, "but not attacked; in the war with Great Britain in 1814
it successfully resisted a combined attack by water and land; and in the
Civil War it lay outside the area of actual combat. Its history is, therefore,
an almost unbroken chronicle of peace and prosperity. In 1904 the busi-
ness section of the city was visited by a conflagration which swept over
an area of 150 acres and destroyed property to the value of $ 70,000,000.
No lives were lost. The burned district has been rebuilt in an improved
manner. — Dr. 0. W. Holmes has remarked that three short American
poems, each the best of its kind, were all written at Baltimore : viz. Poe's
'Raven', RandalFs 'Maryland, my Maryland', and Key's 'Star-Spangled
Banner' (comp. p. 165). The last was written in 1814, while its author
was a prisoner on one of the British ships bombarding Fort McHenry
(p. 208). Jerome Bonaparte, brother of Napoleon I., married a Miss Patterson
of Baltimore, and their descendants still live in the city.
The total value of the manufactures of Baltimore in 1900 was $161,250,000
(32,250,000^.), in the production of which 79,000 hands were engaged. It
is the chief seat of the canning industry of the United States, the materials
being the famous oysters of Chesapeake Bay and fruits from its shores.
The annual product is 50,000,000 cans, and about 15,000 hands are em-
ployed in this industry. Iron, steel, and copper are produced; and the
Bessemer Steel Works at Sparrow''s Point (9 M. from Baltimore) have a
daily capacity of 2000 tons. The cotton-duck mills in and near Baltimore
run 150,000 spindles, employ about 6000 hands, and produce three-fourths of
the sail-duck made in the IJnited States. In brick-making Baltimore ranks
fourth among American cities, producing annually 150,000,000. Next to
New York it is the largest grain-market on the Atlantic coast, its annual
receipts being 50-70 million bushels. The value of the exports of Balti-
more in 1907 was $ 90,410,342. Its harbour is annually entered and cleared
by ca. 1500 sea-going vessels of ca. 3,0l 0,000 tons' burden (besides coasters).
The water-supply of Baltimore is furnished by the Gunpowder River
and Jones's Falls, and is stored in 8 reservoirs with an aggregate capa-
city of 2275 million gallons, capable of a daily supply of 300 million gal-
lons, the daily consumption being 175 millions. The water from Gunpow-
der River is brought through a tunnel almost 7 M. long. — The extensive
new sewage-system of Baltimore is also interesting to experts.
Before the days of railway- transportation Baltimore was the prin-
cipal centre for the trade with the West, the produce from which was
carried in huge 'Conestoga' wagons across the mountains and over the
national turnpike to this city.
The natural centre for tlie visitor to Baltimore is *Mt. Vernon
Place (PI. 0,4), a small square, prettily laid out and suggesting
Paris in its tasteful monuments and surrounding buildings. In the
middle rises the Washington Monument (PI. 0, 4), a column 130 ft.
high, resting on a base 35 ft. in height and surmounted by a colossal
statue of George Washington. The *Yiew from the top (open from
9 a.m. till 5 p.m. ; adm. 15 c.) forms the best introduction to the city.
The monument stands at the intersection of Charles St. (p. 206), run-
ning N. and S., and Monument St., running E. and W. To the S. lies
the harbour. The dark-grey building to the E., just beyond the railway,
is the Jail (PI. D, 4), immediately to the N. of which is the new State
Penitentiary. Johns Hopkins Hospital (p. 207) is conspicuous to the E.
The other monuments in the square include *Bronzes of Peace, W^ar,
Force, Order, and a Lion, by Barye (p. 205); a statue of Chief Justice
Taney, by Rinehart (p. 205; replica of that at Annapolis, p. 209); a statue
of Peabody (see p. 205), by Story (a replica of the one in London); a
spirited equestrian stat\ie of John Baser Howard (1752-1827), the hero of the
Cowpens (p. 571), by Frimiet; a statue of S. T. Wallis (1S16-1894), a noted
Baltimore lawyer, by Marqueste; and a figure of Military Courage, hj Dubois.
At the N.E. corner of the square is the handsome Mt. Vernon
Methodist Episcopal Church (PI. 0, 4). At the S.E. corner of the
Walters Collection. BALTIMORE. 26. Route. 205
square stands ttie Peabody Institute (PI. C, 4), founded and
endowed by Mr. George Peabody (p. 282), for the encoaragement of
science, art, and general knowledge.
The Reference Library (9-10.30), on the groundfloor, contains 150,000
well-selected vols. ; the Reading Room is large and handsome.
The Art Gallery (9-4), on the first floor, contains collections of casta,
American paintings, etc. The "Rinehart Collection consists of casts (Nos.
116-139, 163-167, 168-182) of the works of William H. Rinehart (1825-74), a
native of Maryland. 'No. 106 (Clytie) is an original.
The institution also includes a Conservatorium of Music.
Also on the S. side of the square (No. 5) is the house of Mr. Henry
Walters, connected by an overhead bridge with a new picture-gallery
(entrance on W. side), containing the celebrated *Walters Collection,
one of the finest private collections of art in America (open to the
public, 11-4, on Wed. in Feb., March, and April, on Sat. also in April 5
tickets 50 c., sold for the benefit of the poor, at the Stafford, Belve-
dere, and Rennert Hotels, Albaugh's Ticket Office, Charles St., etc.;
also at 1113 Pennsylvania Ave., Washington). The new building,
130 ft. long by 120 ft. wide, is intended as a memorial to Mr. W. T.
AV alters (1820-94), a bronze bust of whom surmounts the entrance.
Ground Floor. Four rooms are fitted up in the Louis XIV., Louis XVI.,
French Renaissance, and French Gothic styles, and contain objects of
these different periods. Another room, with a Renaissance ceiliDg from
a palace near Milan, contains carved woodwork, Limoges enamels, and
other art objects of the 16th century. In a sixth room are bronzes, terra-
cotta vases, and other Greek and Roman objects. The Barye Room con-
tains water-colours, drawings, and the most extensive existing collection
of "Bronzes and Drawings by A. L. Barye. The water-colours and draw-
ings include four by Millet (one the original design for the Angelus), and
others by Rosa Bonheur, Detaille, Felix Ziem, Meissonier, O. Achenbach,
Fred. Walker, Alex. Bida, and Alma Tadema.
The centre of the groundfloor is occupied by a Covered Court, con-
taining Greek, Roman, Renaissance, and modern sculpture. In its gallery
is a magnificent ^Collection of Chinese and Japanese bronzes, enamels,
porcelain, ivory-carvings, paintings, tapestry, etc.
On the First Floor are five rooms containing the * Collection of
Paintings, including 280 modern works, chiefly of the French School, and
older works, illustrating the development of art from the 12th cent, on-
ward. The most important work in the gallery is RaphaePs 'Madonna del
Candelabro, and there are also good examples of masters of most of the
Italian, French, German, Dutch, and English schools. Among the most
noted of the modern works, which are of singularly uniform excellence,
are Corofs Martyrdom of St. Sebastian (a large canvas 8 ft. by 4 ft.); MHlefs
Sheepfold and Potato Harvest; Meissonier''s '1814' (Napoleon on the retreat
from Moscow); Rousseau s Le Givre (winter solitude); G&rdme's The duel
after the masquerade; Delaroche^s 'Hemicycle du Palais des Beaux- Arts',
a reduced replica, by the mastei's own brush, of the mural painting in
the Palais des Beaux- Arts at Paris, with figures of great artists and alle-
gorical figures of art, etc.; Fortunys Hindoo snake-charmers; Troyons
Cattle drinking ; and good examples of Gleyre, Alma Tadema, Briton Riviire,
Gilbert Stuart, Leys, Delacroix., E. van Marcke, J. J. Henner, Horace Vernet,
A. de Neuville, Jules Dupri, Jules Breton, and Turner. Scattered throughout
the rooms are cases containing Japanese lacquers, Sevres and Dresden
porcelain, miniatures, vories, and other small articles.
Below the groundfloor is a Crypt containing the Shrewsbury Collection
of Instruments of Torture, including the original 'Iron Virgin' (a hollow
figure with iron spikes in the interior, into which the victim was thrugt)
from Nuremberg.
206 Route 26. BALTIMORE. aty Hall.
Charles Stbbbt (PI. C, 1-8), one of tlie chief thoronglifares of
the city, leads to the N. from the Washington Monument past th.e
Union Station (PI. C, D, 2, 3; p. 202), near which, at the N. end of
the B. & 0. tunnel (p. 208) , is the Mt. Royal Station (p. 203).
Following Charles St. to the S., we pass (right) the First Unitarian
Church (PL C, 4) and the back of the Roman Catholic Cathedral
(PI. C, 4), which faces Cathedral St. It is surmounted by a dome,
125 ft. high, and contains some interesting paintings. Adjacent is
the residence of the Archbishop (p. 203).
In W. Mulberry St., a little to the W. of the Cathedral, is the Enoch Pratt
Free Library (Pi! C. 4), a white marble building, with 170,000 books
(90,000 more in its 12 branches). — At the N.E. corner of Franklin and
Cathedral Sts. is the new building of the Young Men's Christian Association
(PL C, 4), — At the corner of Cathedral and Mulberry Sts. is the Calvert
Hall College (PI. C, 4).
At the corner of Charles St. and Saratoga St., to the right, are the
Metropolitan Savings Bank (PI. C, 4, 5) and the Colonial Trust Co.
(right). Opposite is the New Mercantile Library (40,000 vols.). At
the S.E. corner is St PauVs Church (P. E.; PI. C, 4), the old parish
church of the city (1692).
In E. Saratoga St. stands the Athenaeum (PI. D, 4), with the Mary-
land Historical Society (10-4), containing a library and some interesting por-
traits and relics, e.g. the Calvert family papers.
In W. Fayette St., in the graveyard of the WeMminster Presbyterian
Church (PI. C, 5), is the tomb of Edgar Allan Foe (1809-49), with a small
monument. [He died in the Church Home, cor. of Broadway & Fayette
St., PI. F 4.] Near this point, at the corner of Lombard and Greene Sts.,
is the "University of Maryland (PL C, 5).
The "" Lexington Market {V\. C, 5), a little to the 1^. of this point, should
be visited for its picturesque illustrations of Southern produce and manners
(best on Tues. & Frid. mornings and Sat. night). — The new Centre Market
(PL D, 5) to the W. of Jones's Falls, is larger but not yet so interesting.
Farther on Charles St. passes the Masonic Temple (PI. C, 4, 5 ;
left), intersects Baltimore Street (PI. A-G-, 5), the chief business
street of the city, and is continued to South Baltimore.
In the meantime, however, we may follow E. Fayette St. to the
left to the Court House (PI. D, 5), a handsome white marble
building, and the Post Office (PI. D, 5), in front of which rises the
Battle Monument., erected in 1815 in memory of the struggles of
the previous year. The interior of the Court House is adorned with
admirable -mural paintings by Blashfield, C. Y. Turner, and La Farge.
To the E. of the Post Office is the *Cit,y Hall (PI. D, 5), a large and
handsome building, with a dome 260 ft. high (view; open, 9-3).
These three important buildings just escaped the fire of 1904, which
destroyed the part of the city imnaediately to the S. of them (see p. 204).
A little farther along E. Fayette St., just beyond the stream, is the
Merchants" Shot Tower (PL D, 5), a curious relic of 1828, 246 ft. high.
To the S. of the City Hall, in Gay St., between Water and Lom-
bard Sts. , is the imposing new Custom House (PI. D, 5), which was
damaged by the fire of 1904 (see p. 204) but has since been repaired
and completed. It was designed by Hornblower ^^ Marshall and is
decorated with marine paintings by F. D. Millet
Johns Hopkins Univ. BALTIMORE. 26. Route. 207
A little to tlie W, of Mt. Yernon Place, between Howard St. and
Entaw St., are the unpretentious buildings of the philosophical depart-
ment of *Jolins Hopkins University (PI. C, 4: President Remsen).
This institution was founded in li'^TB with a legacy of 31/2 million dollars
(700,000 ^), bequeathed by Johns Hopkins (d. 1873), a Baltimore merchant,
and offers special advantages for post-graduate and for medical work. It
is now attended by 650 students, three-fourths of whom are graduates of
other colleges and universities. Its success and influence, however, cannot
be measured by the number of its students; and its system of instruction,
publications, etc., have been of the greatest importance in stimulating the
higher learning and original research. Its laboratories and other institutions
are well equipped, and its library contains 135,000 volumes. On the ground-
floor of McCoy Hall are good portraits of the presidents and professors.
The * Johns Hopkins Hospital (PL F, 4; tramway via Centre St.),
opened in 1889, is also due to the liberality of Mr. Hopkins, who
bequeathed over $ 3,000,000 (600,000^.) for its foundation.
Both as a scientific and charitable institution, this hospital is an im-
portant adjunct to the University-^ and in the completeness of its equip-
ments and excellence of its system, it ranks with the foremost hospitals
in the world. The buildings of the Medical School of Johns Hopkins Uni-
versity adjoin the hospital.
Among the numerous other Charitable Institutions of Baltimore, many
of which are of great interest, are the Bay View Asylum or City Alms House,
for paupers; the State School for the Blind (PL D, 2); the Ghildreri's Aid Society ;
the City Hospital (VI. D^i); St. Joseph''s Hospital and other noble charities of
the R. C. cburch; and the Wilson Sanitarium, 12 M. from Baltimore (p. 209),
for affording change of air to sick children and their mothers in summer.
The Wells and McGomas Monument (PI. E, 4), passed on the way to the
Johns Hopkins Hospital, is to the memory of two youths who killed the
British commander. Gen. Ross, at the battle of North Point (Sept. 12th,
1814), and were themselves killed immediately afterwards.
Persons interested in the higher education of women should not
omit to visit the Woman's College (PI. D, 1, 2; ca. 350 students),
St. Paul St., and the Bryn Mawr School (PI. C, 3 ; built by H. R.
Marshall), Cathedral St., two admirable and well-equipped insti-
tutions. — The First Presbyterian Church (PI. C, 4), Park Ave., is
a good specimen of Dec. Gothic, with a spire 250 ft. high. — The
Synagogues of the Baltimore Hebrew Congregation, at the corner of
Robert St. and Madison Ave. (PI. B, 2), and of the Oheb Shalom
Congregation, at the comer of Eutaw PI. and Lanvale St. (PI. B, 3),
are two imposing structures. To the S. W. of the Bryn Mawr School,
at the corner of Bolton and Hoffman Sts., is the Fifth Regiment
Armoury (PI. C, 3). A little to the N. of this point, in Mt. Royal
Avenue, is the * Maryland Institute School of Art and Sciences
(PI. C, 2), for both sexes, by Pell & Corbett, adjoined by the Jenkins
Memorial Church (R.C.).
Baltimore prides itseK with justice on *Druid fiill Park (PI,
A, B, 1), a pleasure-ground of about 700 acres, which owes its
beauty in great part to the fact that it had been preserved as a private
park for 100 years before passing into the hands of the city. Its hills
afford beautiful views. Druid Lake, 1/2 M. long, is one of the
reservoirs of the city waterworks (p. 204). The old Mansion House
contains a restaurant, and there is a small zoological collection near by.
208 Route 26. BALTIMORE. Excuraiom.
Washington. Columbus, and Wallace (replica of the statue at Stir-
ling) are commemorated by monuments in Druid Hill Park. At
the Mt. Royal Entrance [PI. B, 1) is a Soldiers Monument by Wein-
man (1908). The Main Entrance (PI. A, 1) may be reached by tram-
way via Madison Ave. or Druid Hill Ave. Those who drive should
choose the route through *Eutaw Place (PI. A, B, 2, 3).
CiiiPTON Pabk (pi. Gr, 1), in the N.E. part of the city, contains
the old mansion of Johns Hopkins (p. 207). — Patterson Pabk
(PI. G, 5), the 'lung' of the E. quarters of the city, contains earth-
works thrown up to defenr* the city against the British in 1814
(p. 203). — Greenmount Cemetery (PL D, E, 2, 3) contains the
graves of Mme. Patterson Bonaparte (d. 1879; see p. 204), Junius
Brutus Booth (d. 1852), the actor (father of Edwin Booth), Johns
Hopkins, etc. — The best view of the water-front is obtained from
Federal Hill Square (PL D, 6), in S, Baltimore.
The Harbour, 3 M. long and V2-'/4 M. wide, consists of an outer
bay accessible to the largest vessels and an inner basin for vessels
of lighter draught. Its entrance is commanded by Fort McHenry
(PL G-, 8; electric tramway), which offers little beyond its historical
interest (see p. 204). — The new Municipal Docks (PL D, E, 5, 6)
repay a visit.
The elaborate system of Tunnels by which the railways traverse
Baltimore deserves the attention of the engineer. The Pennsylvania R. R.
crosses the city from E. to W. by the Union Tunnel (2/3 M.) and the Balti-
more & Potomac Tunnel (i^s M.), with an open stretch of 3/4 M. (containing
the Union Station) between them. The Baltimore <t Ohio Tunnel runs from
N. to S. (i'/s M.), and the trains passing through it are worked by electricity.
Excursions from Baltimore.
Chesapeake Bay is the largest inlet on the Atlantic coast, with a
length of 2CX) M. and a breadth of 10-20 M. It receives the waters of the
Susquehanna, Potomac, James, and other rivers, and is navigable for the
largest vessels. The bay is a favourite resort of sportsmen, and its game
(canvas-back ducks, etc.), fish, terrapins, and oysters have a wide repu-
tation. Steamers run regularly to different points in the Bay (see daily
papers), and the visitor is recommended to make a day-trip on one of
these, the numerous inlets into which they penetrate with the mails im-
parting constant variety to the scenery. At the head of one of these inlets,
on the Chester, lies Chesfertown, the seat of Washington College (1782;
1.50 students). On Kent Island Captain William Clayborne made the first
European settlement in Maryland, in 1631. Tolchester Beach (25 M.) is on
the E. shore. Annapolis (p. 209), Old Point Comfort (p. 563) and Norfolk
(p. 561; 12-13 hrs.), etc., may be reached by steamer on Chesapeake Bay.
Steamer to Washington, see p. 210,
Lake Roland (225 ft.), 8 M. to the If, (N. Cen. R. R.), one of the chief
reservoirs of the Baltimore Waterworks, and Loch Raven, on the Gunpowd&r
River, another source of the water-supply, are frequently visited.
About 5 M. from Ellicott City fl5 M. to the W. of Baltimore) is
Doughoregan Manor, the country-seat of Charles Carroll of Carrollton
(1737-1832), one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence,
Among other favourite resorts of the Baltimoreans are those in the
Blue Ridge Mts. (p. 209); and excursions may also easily be made to Gettys-
burg (p. 192), Harper^s Ferry (p, 351), Washington (p. 211), the Shenandoah
Valley (p. 597), etc.
ANNAPOLIS. 26. Route. 209
From Baltimoke to Cdmbekland, 167 M., Western Maryland R.R. (Hillen
St. or Union Station) in S^/z-B'/z hrs. (return-fare to Blue Mt. House or
Gettysburg $ 3.60; observation car). This line leads to the N.W. to several
favourite resorts in the Blue Ridge Mis. and to Oettysburg. — 8 M. Mt. Hope,
with a large Insane Asylum ; 12 M. Mt. Wilson (see p. 207); 20 M. Glyndon,
for (51 M.) Gettysburg (p. 192); 34 M. Westminster (700 ft.), the seat of Western
Maryland College (250 students); 49 M. Bruceville (415 ft.), for (17 M.) Fred-
erick (p. 350). B9 M. Blue Ridge (1375 ft.), where we cross the summit of
the Blue Ridge Mts., is the station for Monterey Springs (Hotel, §21/2).
7OV2 M. Buena Vista, connected by tramway with (2 M.) Buena Vista Spring
Hotel. — 71 M. Pen-Mar (1200 ft.; Pen-Mar Ho., Washington Cliff Ho., Mt.
Royal Inn, $ 2), named from its situation on the boundary between
Pen(nsylvania) and Mar(yland), is one of the most popular resorts in the
Blue Ridge Mts. A fine view of the Cumberland and Shenandoah Valleys
(pp. 189, 597) is obtained from (2 M.) High Rock (2000 ft.) and from Mt.
Quirauk (2500 ft.). — 72 M. Blue Mountain House ($ 3-4), a large and ex-
cellent hotel, offers the most comfortable quarters in the neighbourhood. —
75 M. Edgemont is the junction of the Cumberland Valley branch to Chambers-
burg (p. 193). 87 M. Hag&rstown (p. 189) ; 93 M. Williamsport (p. 185). —
105 M. Big Pool is the junction of a short branch -line to Cherry Run
(p. 351). — Beyond (116 M.) Hancock we thread the Indigo Tunnel, ca. 1 M.
long. We cross the Potomac twice. — 151 M. Oldtown. At (167 M.) Cumber-
land we join the B. & 0. R. R. (see p. 351).
Feom Baltimore to Hareisbueg , 85 M. , NortJiern Central R. R. in
21/2-31/3 hrs. — 85 M. Harrisburg, see p. 189.
From Baltimore to Annapolis, 26 M., Maryland Electric Railway C Short
Line"*) in 3/4-I hr. (fare 60 c., return-fare $ 1). The line skirts Chesapeake Bay
(left), crossing the Severn River. The intermediate stations are unimportant.
— Annapolis may also be reached by the B. & 0. R. R. (38 M. ; I-IV4 hr.), via
Annapolis Junction; by the Pa. R. R. (33 M.) via Odenton; or by the new
Washington, Baltimore, & Annapolis Electric Railway, via Academy Junction.
26 M. Annapolis {Carvel Hall, from $3; The Maryland, $21/2; board,
even for one night, at Miss Buchanan''s, Maryland Ave., cor. Hanover St.,
$ 2, at Mrs. Boiling's, Hanover St., and at Mrs. Cheston's, Prince George St.),
the quaint and quiet little capital of Maryland (8525 inhab.), is the oldest
chartered city in the United States (charter from Queen Anne in 1708).
It is pleasantly situated at the influx of the Severn into Chesapeake Bay
and carries on a considerable trade in oysters. Near the centre of the
town stands the State House (*View from the upper windows). The Senate
Room (to the right on entering) was the scene of Washington's surrender
of hia commission in 1783 and of the First Constitutional Convention in
1786. In front of the State House is a colossal Statue of Chief Justice Taney
(1777-1864), by Rinehart (p. 205). To the left is a Statue of Gen. De Kalb
(1721-80), by Keyser. The new State Library contains 40,000 volumes.
St. Johiis College, chartered in 17t^4, represents a foundation of 1696 (200 stu-
dents). In its grounds is the Tree of Liberty (700 years old ; girth 30 ft.)
under which a treaty is said to have been made by the early settlers with
the Indians. Some of the old Colonial houses and churches are interesting
(comp. p. Ixxxviii), such as the so-called Richard Carvel House (from Win-
ston Churchill's novel; now a school of the Sisters of Notre Dame), the
Brice House (Georgian), and the vine-covered Church of St. Anne, opposite
the Post Office. The chief lion of Annapolis is, however, the *United States
Naval Academy, founded in 1845 for the education of officers for the navy.
The cadets (ca. 850) are nominated in the same way as the West Point
cadets (comp. p. 89). The course of instruction comprises four years at
the Academy and two at sea. Among the chief buildings, recently erected
by E. Flagg, are the Cadet Quarters (a huge granite building), with a fine
memorial hall, etc. ; the Library; the domed Chapel, with a crypt containing
the remains of John Paul Jones (1747-92); the Gymnasium, with its swimming
pool; the Laboratories; and the Engineering Shops. The military exercises
take place after 4 p.m., when the 'recitations' (classes) end. — About 5 M.
to the N. of Annapolis is Whitehall, the fine Colonial mansion of Col, Horatio
Sharp, Governor of Maryland in 1753-69.
210
27. From Baltimore to Washington.
Gomp. Map, p. 156.
a. Via Philadelphia, Baltimore, & "Washington Railroad.
43 M. Railway in 1-13/4 hr. ($1.20; parlor-car 25c.). This forms part
of the Pennsylvania line from New York to Washington (228 M. ; express
in 5-6 hrs., $6.50; sleeper $2, parlor-car $1.25).
The trains start from the Calvert and Union Stations (see p. 203)
and pass below the N.W. quarters of the city hy a tunnel II/3 M.
long. 19 M. Odenton is the junction of the "Washington, Baltimore, &
Annapolis Electric Railway to (14 M.) Annapolis (p. 209). 40 V2 M.
Navy Yard (p. 226). In approaching Washington we thread a tunnel
300 yds. long. Fine view of the Capitol to the right.
43 M. Washington, see p. 211.
b. Vii, Baltimore & Ohio Railroad ('Royal Blue Line').
40 M. Railway in ^/t-P/i hr. (fares as above). Express from New York
in 5-5V2 hrs. (fares as above).
Baltimore, see p. 203. At (9 M.) Relay Station the train crosses
the Thomas Viaduct, the oldest railway-bridge of stone in America,
over the Patapsco River. From (18 M.) Annapolis Junction the above-
named electric line runs to (20 M.) Annapolis (p. 209). 21 M.
Laurel; 34 M. Hyattsville.
40 M. Washington, see p. 211.
c. Vii. Washington, Baltimore, & Annapolis Electric Railway.
38 M. Railway in IV4 hr. (fare 75 c).
Baltimore, see p. 203. From (18 M.) Naval Academy Junction
branch-lines run to the S. to (13 M.) Annapolis (p. 209) and to the
N. to (1 M.) Odenton and (7 M.) Annapolis Junction (see above).
40 M. Washington, see p. 211 (station at 15th and HSts. N.E.,
PI. H, 3).
d. By Water.
Steamees of the Maryland, Delaware^ and Virginia Railway leave Pier 9,
Light St., Baltimore, 3-5 times weekly at 5 p.m., and reach Washington (Tth
St. Wharf) in ca. 36 hrs. (fare $2; stateroom $ IV2-2V2; meals 50c. each).
The steamers ply down Chesapeake Bay (p. 208) and up the
Potomac (p. 212), calling at many small stations. Among the places
passed after rounding Point Lookout (right) and entering the river
are St. Marys City (r.), the landing-place of Leonard Calvert, first
Governor of Maryland, in 1634, and the first capital of the province;
Wakefield (left), the birthplace of George Washington (1732-99),
with a monument erected in 1897; Mathias Point (1.), heavily forti-
fied by the Confederates in the Civil War ; Indian Head, with Govern-
ment proving ground for heavy ordnance; Mt. Vernon (p. 228); and
Alexandria (p. 228). The trip is, perhaps, better made in the reverse
direction, when these points of historic interest are passed by day-
light. — Washington, see p. 211.
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211
28. Washington.
Union Railway Station (PI. F, 8; p. 213; restaurant), Massachusetts
Ave., not far from the Capitol, for all trains. — Hotel Omnibuses meet the
chief trains (25 c). Gab into the town, each pers. 25-35 c. (see below).
Hotels (many of them closed in summer). *NewWillakd (PI. e; D, 3),
cor. of Pennsylvania Ave. and l4th St., with palm-garden restaurant, R. from
321/2; Ablington (PI. a; D, 3), Vermont Ave., from 35, R. from 3 2;
*Shoreham (PI. b; D, 3), 15th St., from 3 5, R. from $2; Gokdon (PI. c;
C, 3), 916 lethSt., 3 3-5, R. from 3IV2; Normandie (PI. d; D,3), MePherson
Sq., from 3 4, R. 31-3; Cochran (PI. s; D, 3), 14th and K Sts., from 3 4;
Raleigh (PI. r; D, 3), cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 12th St., R. from 3 iVzi
commercial; Caiko (PI. p; C, 2), y "St., between iBth and 17th Sts., 3 31/2; Eb-
BiTT Ho. (PI. f ; D, 3), cor. of F and lith Sts., from 5 4 ; Riggs Ho. (PI. g ; D, 3),
cor. Gr and 15th Sts., 53-5; Metropolitan (PI. i; E, 4), 613 Pennsylvania
Ave., 321/2-4, these three old-established houses on the American plan,
much frequented by politicians; 'Grafton (PI. q; C, 2), Connecticut Ave.,
between L & M Sts., from 3 3, quiet and comfortable; Regent (PI. m;
D, 3), cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 15th St., 33, R. from 31; Driscoll
(PI. 1; F, 4), B St., cor. of 1st St. from 3 3, R. from 3IV2; National
(PI. n; E, 4), Pennsylvania Ave., 32V2-4, R. from 3 i; Bancroft (PI. t; C, 3),
18th and H Sts., 321/2-31/2; Dewet (PI. v; D, 3), L St., from 331/2; Richmond
(PI. u; C, 3), 17th and H Sts., 54, R. from 3 IV2; Hamilton, cor. of 14th
and K St. (PI. D, 3), from 3 II/2; St. James (PI. 0; E, 4), R. from 3 1 ; La
Fetea's Temperance Hotel (PI. x ; D, 3), cor. of G and llthSts., unpretending,
32, R. from 3 1; Dolly Madison House, 1401 Massachusetts Ave., for ladies
only, well spoken of, from 3 2. Also numerous small Family Hotels and
Boarding Houses (3 10-20 a week).
Restaurants. At the'Willard, '* Arlington, Shoreham, Ealeigh, and other
hotels on the European plan (see above); Harvey, 1016 Pennsylvania Ave.
(steamed oysters, etc.); Losekam, 1325 F St. ; Hancock, 1234 Pennsylvania Ave.,
a quaint little place (men only),with a collection of relics; Capitol Restaurants,
see pp. 215,216; Fussell, 1425 NewYork Ave. (ice-cream, etc.) ; La Fetra't Lun-
cheon Rooms, see above (frequented by ladies); Ratskeller, cor. of 8th and
ESts (PI. E, 3j; Railway Restaurant, see above. Munich beer at Fritz Reuter''s
Ratskeller, cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 2nd St., frequented by Germans.
Tramways (mostly on the 'underground trolley' system) and Omnibuses
('■ Herdics'' ) traverse many of the principal streets.
Cabs (Hacks &nA. Hansoms). For 15 squares each pers. 25 c., each addit.
5 squares 10c. , at night (12.30-5 a.m.) 40 and 15c.; per hr. , 1-2 pers.,
75 c, each addit. 1/4 hr. 20 c., 3-4 pers. 5 1 and 25 c., at night 5 1, 25c., 3 IV*,
35 c. Two-horse Hacks, 1-4 pers., per hr. ^V-jz, each addit. i/4hr. 25c. To
Arlington 3 5, Soldiers' Home 35, Great Falls of the Potomac 320- — Taxi-
cabs with fares as at New York (p. 18).
Steamers ply daily from 7 th St. Wharf (PI. E, 5) to Norfolk (p. 561), Old
Point Comfort {-p. 563), Mt. Vernon (p. 228), and other river-landings; also, at
irregular intervals (see daily papers), to Baltimore (p. 203), Philadelphia (p. 158),
New York (p. 10), Boston (p. 253), etc. Steam Ferry hourly from 7th St.
Wharf to Alexandria (p. 228 ; fare 10, return-fare 15 c). This is a pleasant trip.
Theatres. New National Theatre (PI. D, 3), E St. ; Columbia (PI. D, 3), F St.;
Belasco Theatre (PI. D, 3), Lafayette Sq. ; Academy of Music (PI. E, 3), cor.
of D and 9th Sts.; Chase's Theatre (Grand Opera House; PI. D, 3), for 'polite
vaudeville'. — In summer the U. S. Marine Band (Conductor, J. P. Sousa)
plays on three afternoons each week at the Capitol, White House, and
Marine Barracks (p. 226), while in winter it gives a weekly concert in
the hall of the Barracks (Mon. afternoon).
The Seeing Washington Automobiles give a good general idea of the
city in the course of a round trip of I1/2 hr., passing most of the
buildings of interest mentioned in the text. The cars leave the waiting-
room at 1417 G St., opposite the Treasury Department (p. 222), daily, includ-
ing Sun., at 10a.m., 2p.m., and 4p.m. (fare 31). Other cars, leaving atl0and2,
visit the chief Government Buildings, the interiors of which are shown and
explained by the guide (fare $ I1/2).
212 Route 28. WASHINGTON. History.
Art Collections. Corcoran Gallery, see p. 223; paintings at National
Museum^ see p. 219; engravings and prints at the Library of Congress, see
p. 217. A visit should also be made to the art -store of Victor Fisher,
15th St. (close to Pennsylvania Ave. ; old and modern pictures).
Clubs. Metropolitan (PI. C, 3); Army dc Navy, 1622 1 St. ; Cosmos (scientific;
Pl.D, 3); University; Gridiron Club; Washington, for ladies, 1710 1 St.
Post Office (PI. D, 3), Pennsylvania Ave., between 11th and 12th Sts.
Booksellers. Brentano, cor. of 12th and FSts. ; Woodward ds Lothrop,
Uth and FSts.; Lowdermilk & Co., 1424 FSt.
British Embassy (PI. C, 2), Connecticut Ave.; ffon. James Bryce, Am-
bassador. — German Embassy, 1435 Massachusetts Ave.; Count Bernstorff,
Ambassador. Ger. Con. Agent, Mr. G. Dittmar.
Note. Visitors will find all the official addresses and much miscellan-
eous information of a useful nature in the Congressional Directory (35 c.). —
All addresses given in the .text are presumed to be in the N.W. quarter
of the city unless otherwise stated.
The City of Washington, the capital of the United States, lies
on the left hank of the Potomac, at the confluence of the main stream
with the E. branch, the Anacostia., 156 M. from Chesapeake Bay and
185 M. from the Atlantic Ocean. It covers an area of about 10 sq.M.,
and in 1900 had 218,196 inhab. (with Georgetown, 232,745). The
city is in many respects one of the most beautiful in the United
States, being finely laid out, with wide asphalted streets, opening up
vistas of handsome public buildings, monuments, or leafy squares,
with the Capitol and the Washington Monument dominating the
entire view. Its plan may be described as that of a wheel laid on a
gridiron, the rectangular arrangement of the streets having superim-
posed upon it a system of radiating avenues, lined with trees and
named for the different states of the Union. The streets running N.
and S. are numbered, those running E. and W. are named by the
letters of the alphabet. The Circles formed by the intersection of
the streets and avenues are one of the most charming features of the
city. Pennsylvania Avenue, between the Capitol and the White
House (a distance of IV3 M.), is the chief thoroughfare, and other
important business-streets are 7th St., 14th St., 9th St., and F St.
Among the finest residence-streets are *N€w Hampshire Avenue,
* Massachusetts Ave., Vermont Ave., Connecticut Ave., and 16th St.
The present site of the national capital of the United States was
selected in 1790, mainly through the agency of George Washington; and
the Federal District of Columbia, 100 sq. M. in area, was set apart for
this purpose, on territory ceded by Maryland and Virginia. The Virginia
portion of the district was, however, retroceded in 1846, and the present
area of the District of Columbia is 69 sq. M. Its population in 1908 was
339,403(^*7,483 coloured) +. The district is ruled directly by the President
and Congress, through a board of Commissioners appointed under an act
of 1874; and its inhabitants belong to no state and have no voice either
in national or local government. The plan of the city of Washington was
due to Major rUnfant, a French officer of engineers; and the intention
was to make the Capitol (p. 213) its centre, with streets and avenues
radiating from it in all directions. It was at first proposed to call it
Federal City, but this name was changed to Washington in 1791.
The foundation-stone of the Capitol was laid in 1793; the seat of
government was removed to Washington in 1800; and in 1802 the city
t In this enumeration the city of Washington was not separately estimated.
Capitol. WASHINGTON. 28. Route. 213
received its charter. In 1814 tlie city was taken by tlie British, who
burned the Capitol. In 1810 the population was 8208; in 1840 it was
23,364; and in 1890 it was 188,932. In 1871 the city was still in a very
backward condition; but the substitution in that year of a territorial for
a municipal government inaugurated a series of reforms, which completely
revolutionized the appearance of the city and left it one of the most com-
fortable and beautiful in the world. The commerce and manufactures of
Washington are relatively unimportant, and its prosperity depends on its
position as the seat of Congress and the Government Offices. There are
probably 40,000 army and navy officers and civil servants in Washington,
and these with their families make a large proportion of the population. It
is emphatically the scientific centre of the country, and its ten scientific
societies contain 4000 members. The sobriquet of 'City of Magnificent
Distances', applied to Washington when its framework seemed unneces-
sarily large for its growth, is still deserved, perhaps, for the width of its
streets and the spaciousness of its parks and squares.
The best time to visit Washington is during the sitting of Congress,
which lasts from the first Mon. in Dec. to March 4th in the odd-numbered
years, and till June, July, or later in the even-numbered years. The city
itself is seen to greatest advantage in May or October. In summer (July-
Sept.) it is very hot and is deserted by many of its inhabitants. The Public
Offices are all open to the public, free, between 9 or 10 and 2; and the
attendants will show on application any rooms not actually occupied.
The new *Union Railway Station (PI. F, 3), completed In 1908
from the designs of D. H. Burnham, at a cost of $4,000,000, is
undoubtedly one of the most successful buildings in the country.
It is situated at the junction of Massachusetts and Delaware Ave-
nues, about 1/3 M. to the N. of the Capitol. In front is a large
'plaza', to be embellished with shrubbery and fountains.
The main building, constructed of white granite, is 630 ft. long and
210 ft. wide. The simple and dignified facade is adorned with three sculptural
groups. The concourse is 760 ft. long and 130 ft. wide, the main waiting-
room, 220 ft. in length, is surmounted by a finely proportioned vaulted
ceiling, 120 ft. in height and adorned with gilding.
In connection with the opening of the new station much work has
been done on the elevation and diverting of tracks, the piercing of tunnels
under the Capitol hill (for the lines to the S.), and various terminal facilities.
The **Capitol (P1.F,4), finely situated on a hill 90 ft. above the
level of the Potomac, dominates the entire city with its soaring dome
and ranks among the most beautiful buildings in the world. It is
751ft. in length and 121-324ft, wide, and consists of a main edifice
of sandstone, painted white, and of two wings of white marble. It
covers an area of 31/2 acres. The main building, with its original
low-crowned dome, was completed in 1827; the wings and the new
iron Dome were added in 1851-65. Numerous architects have been
employed on the building, of whom it may be enough to mention
Thornton (p. 223), the originator of the general design, Latrobe and
Bulfinch^ who made important modifications of it, and T. U.Walter,
the designer of the extensions and the dome. The general style is
classic, with Corinthian details. The principal facade looks towards
the E., as the city was expected to spread in that direction, and the
Capitol thus turns its back upon the main part of the city and on
the other government buildings. [The original design, however,
contemplated a W. front.] A fine marble * Terrace (view), 884 ft.
214 Route 28. WASHINGTON. Capitol.
long, approached by two broad flights of steps, has been constructed
on the "W. side of the Capitol and adds great dignity to this view
of the building. The dome, which is 268Y2 ft* ^^S\ is surmounted
by a figure of Liberty, by Crawford, 191/2 ft. high (comp. p. 219).
The total cost of the building has been $ 16,000,000.
'The History of the United States CapitoF, by Glenn Brown, is a sump-
tuous illustrated work in two large vols. (1900-1903).
The Capitol stands in a park of about 50 acres in extent, laid
out by Olmsted.
The Front or East Fagade is preceded by three porticos, the main
entrance being in the centre. To the right of the central portico is
the Settlement of America, a marble group by Oreenough; to the
left is the Discovery of America, a figure of Columbus by Persico.
In the pediment above the portico is a relief of the Genius of America,
by Persico; and in the pediment above the N. portico is a group re-
presenting the Civilization of the United States, by Crawford. The
inauguration of the Presidents of the United States takes place on
the broad steps in front of the main doorway.
*Interior (open, 9-4; guide, unnecessary, 50c. per hr.). The beautiful
^Bronze Doors are adorned with reliefs by Randolph Rogers , representing
events in the life of Columbus (cast at Munich, 1851). To the right and
left are statues of Peace and War, by Persico. — We first enter the —
RoTDNDA, below the Dome, 96ft. in diameter and 180ft. high. The
walls are adorned with eight historical paintingis (named from right to
left): 1. (to the right) Landing of Columbus in 1492, by Vanderlyn; 2. Em-
barkation of the Pilgrims at Delfthaven in 1620, by Weir; 3. Washington
resigning his commission at Annapolis in 1783, by Trumbull; 4. Surrender
of Cornwallis in 1781, by Trumbull; 5. Surrender ofBurgoyne at Saratoga
in 1777, by Trumbull; 6. Signing the Declaration of Independence (1776), by
Trumbull; 7. Baptism of Pocahontas (1613), by Chapman; 8. Discovery of
the Mississippi by De Soto in 1541, by Powell Above these paintings is a
band of frescoes, in imitation of relief, by Brumidi and Costagini, representing
scenes from American history from the Landing of Columbus to the Celebra-
tion of the Centennial of Independence at Philadelphia. The ceiling-paint-
ing, also by Brumidi, depicts the Apotheosis of Washington, with figures of
Liberty, Victory, the 13 Original States, and other allegorical groups. The
reliefs above the doors represent the Landing of the Pilgrims, Penn's
Treaty with the Indians, Pocahontas and Capt. Smith, and Daniel Boone
and the Indians. The Rotunda also contains statues of Lincoln (by Mrs.
Hoxie), Jefferson Qa^ David d'' Angers), Hamilton (by Stone), Grant(by Simmons),
and E. D. Baker (by Stone), and a bronze bust of Washington by David
d' Angers, presented in 1905 by the Count de Rochambeau, the Marquis
de Lafayette, and other Frenchmen. — A staircase at the N.W. corner of
the Rotunda ascends to the Whispering Gallery, in the interior of the
dome, and to the lantern on the top of the dome (268V2 ft.), which com-
mands a splendid "View of Washington. Pennsylvania Avenue (r.) and
Maryland Avenue (1.) diverge like the spokes of a fan, and between them
is the Mall, a broad enclosure containing the Smithsonian and other
public institutions, with the tall Washington Monument towering above
all. The Pension Office is conspicuous to tbe N.W. and the Post Office
is prominent on the left side of Pennsylvania Ave. The White House is
almost concealed by the Treasury (at the end of Pennsylvania Ave.). —
The door on the W. side of the Rotunda leads to the rooms formerly
occupied by the Library of Congress (p. 216).
The door on the S. side of the Rotunda leads to the Old Hall of
Representatives, now the * National Hall of Statuary, a semicircular
apartment, containing statues of eminent Americans, each State being
SoTitK
Main, Entraac e
Xorth
Capitol. WASHINGTON. 28. Route. 215
allowed to send 'effigies of two of her chosen sons'. Illinois sends a
'chosen daughter' in the person of Miss Frances E. Willard, the apostle of
temperance. There is also a statue of Washington (cast of Houdon's
statue, p. 556). The allegorical Clock is by Framoni. A brass plate in
the S.W. corner of the floor marks the spot where John Quincy Adams fell
on Feb. 21 st, 1848, two days before his death. This room has some curious
'whispering gallery' properties, which, however, require the aid of an
habitue to discover.
Leaving the Statuary Hall by the corridor on its S. side, we next
enter the wing devoted to the House of Representatives.
The Hall of Representatives (open to visitors before noon, when the
House meets; galleries open at all times), occupying the centre of this
wing, is a plain and business-like apartment, 139 ft. long, 93 ft. wide, and
36 ft. high. It contains desks for 3rfl members and 4 delegates. To the
right of the Speaker is the pedestal on which the mace is placed when
the House is called to order. To the right and left are portraits of Wash-
ington (by Vanderlyn) and Lafayette (by Ary Scheffer). On the same wall
is a fresco by Brumidi (Washington demanding the surrender of Cornwallis
at Yorktown). Like the House of Commons, the hall is lighted through
glass-panels in the ceiling. The Galleries round the Hall can seat 2500
people; different sections are reserved for ladies (with their escorts),
gentlemen, the press, the diplomatic corps, and the families of members
and officials. The general proceedings of the House are roughly similar
to those of the House of Commons, but the noise and confusion are
greater and it is a rare thing for a speaker to receive the attention of
the whole House. The Republicans affect one side of the hall, and the
Democrats the other. The Speaker has no distinguishing dress, and
members do not wear their hats in the House. A novel feature to the
European visitor is the presence in the House of a number of page-boys,
who are summoned by the clapping of hands.
The Hall is surrounded with corridors, affording access to Committee
Rooms (many of them with frescoes) and the Rooms of Officials.
On the E. and W. are Staircases ascending to the Galleries. On the
wall of the E. staircase is a large painting, by Carpenter^ of the Signing of
the Proclamation of Emancipation, with portraits of Lincoln and his
Cabinet (Sept. 22nd, 1863)-, at its foot is a statue of Jefferson, by Powers;
and at its head are portraits of Henry Clay and others. On the W. stair-
case is Leutze's large painting of Westward Ho, with a view of the Golden
Gate, by Bierstadt, below; at the foot of the staircase is a bronze bust
of an Indian chief, and at the top is a portrait of Chief Justice Marshall.
The upper floor also contains various Committee Rooms. — The basement-
floor, below the House of Representatives, contains a good Restaurant.
The door on the N. side of the Rotunda (p. 214) leads into the N. wing
of the original Capitol (see p. 213), on the right (E.) side of which is the
Supreme Court Room, formerly the Senate Chamber (open to visitors). The
U. S. Supreme Court consists of a Chief Justice (Hon. M. W. Fuller) and
eight Associate Justices. Sessions from Oct. to May (12-4). The judges wear
robes but no wigs, the counsel neither gowns nor wigs. — In the Rohivg
Room are portraits of former Chief Justices.
We now pass through a corridor leading to the Senate Wing. The
*Senate Chamber is smaller (113 ft. long, 80 ft. wide, and 36 ft. high) and
more ornate than the House of Representatives. The general arrangements
of the seats, galleries, etc., are like those of the House, and the Senate also
meets at noon. The Vice-President of the United States is the official Pre-
sident of the Senate ; and niches in the walls contain busts of all the Vice-
Presidents. The Senators are 92 in number. — To the N. of the Senate are
the Presidents Room, richly adorned with frescoes and gilding; the Senators''
Reception Hall or Marhle Room; and the Vice' President's Room, with a fine
portrait of Washington, by Rembrandt Peale. When the Senate is in session,
visitors to these rooms require the permission of a Senator; at other times
they may enter them, if open, and apply to the messengers if closed.
Several of the Senate Committee Rooms are also handsomely decorated. —
At the foot of the '^E. Staircase, ascending to the Galleries, is a statue of
Baedekek's United States. 4th Edit. 14
216 Route 28. WASHINGTON. Congress Library .
Franklin by Powers; on the wall is Perry's Victory on Lake Erie (1813),
a large painting by Powell; at the top is the Return of Columbus^ by A. G.
Heaton. Near the head of this staircase are large paintings of the Yellowstone
and the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, by Thomas Moran. At the foot of
the W. Staircase is a statue of John Hancock, by Stone; on the wall is
the Storming of Chapultepec, Mexico (1847), by Walker. At the head of
this staircase is a portrait of Washington, by G. W. Peale. The rooms
and corridors of the Upper Floor contain various other portraits and paint-
ings. In the basement is a Restaurant.
The -'Bronze Boors of the Senate Wing, opening on the N.E. portico,
and those of the House Wing, at the S.E. portico, represent various scenes
of American history, in relief, by Crawford.
The Basement of the Capitol contains Committee Rooms, Storage Rooms,
Restaurants (see above and p. 215), etc. The walls and ceilings of the cor-
ridors are frescoed, and some of the Committee Eooms are also handsomely
decorated (admission on application to the messengers). The Ventilating
and Heating Apparatus is interesting. In the centre, below the Dome, is the
Crypt, with 40 Doric columns. In a small vestibule, reached from the
outside by the door under the colonnade to the right of the , main steps,
are Six Columns, in the form of stalks of Indian corn, said to have been
suggested by Jefferson (comp. p. Ixxxviii).
We may leave the building by the W. terrace and steps (see p. 213).
To the N. and S. of the Capitol and connected with ithy snhways
are the Senate and House of Representatives Buildings (PI. F, 4),
two white marhle edifices in a classic style (1908), containing
offices for senators and representatives.
To the S.E. of the Capitol stands the * Library of Congress
(PI. F, 4) , an enormons stmctnre in the Italian Renaissance style,
470 ft. long and 340 ft. wide , erected in 1888-97 at a cost of
$6,180,000. The hnilding was accomplished by Oen. T. L. Casey,
Chief of Engineers U. S. A., with the aid of Bernard R. Green,
E. P. Casey, J. L. Smithmeyer , and P. J. Peliz. It is in the form
of a qnadrangle , enclosing four conrts and a central rotunda sur-
mounted by a flat gilded dome and lantern. The main entrance, on
the W. side, is preceded by a broad flight of steps and a granite
terrace, against the retaining wall of which is an effective fountain
by R. Hinton Perry. At each corner and in the middle of the W.
and E. facades are projecting pavilions. The sculptural adornment
of the ornate W. facade includes a series of ethnological heads (over
the windows), busts of Demosthenes, Emerson, Irving, Goethe,
Franklin, Macaulay, Hawthorne, Scott, and Dante (portico) , and
groups representing Literature, Art, and Science (spandrels of the
entrance-porch). The three bronze doors represent Printing (centre),
Tradition (left), and Writing (right), the first by Fred. MacMonnies,
the others by Olin L. Warner. — The library can accommodate
4 or 5 million vols,, and at present contains 1,500,000, besides
100,000 MSS,, 100,000 maps, 465,000 pieces of music, and 255,000
prints. Among special collections of note are those of Russian and
Japanese works. The use of the library is free to all adults, but
none but members of Congress and a few privileged officials have
the right to take books out of the building. The staff numbers 300,
The building is open to visitors from 9 a.m. to 10 p, m. Descriptive
Congress Library. WASfflNGTON. 28. Route. 217
handbooks at the entrance (10 o. and 25 c). Restaurant in the
attic of the pavilion (elevator). Librarian, Dr. Herbert Putnam.
The *Interior of tlie Congressional Library is sumptuoxisly adorned
with painting, sculpture, coloured marbles, and gilding (especially brilliant
by electric light). These decorations, while very unequal in merit and at
times somewhat confused and over-garish, produce on the whole a very
imposing effect and are specially interesting as an expression of the popular
national taste. No fewer than filty American artists are represented in
the work. Only a few of the numerous paintings can be mentioned
below ; for details the reader is referred to the works themselves and
to the special handbooks mentioned above. TheW. portico opens on the
Main Entrance Hall, constructed of white Italian marble. To the right
and left are massive marble staircases, richly adorned with sculpture and
with bronze figures as lamp-bearers. The ceiling of the Hall, 72 ft. above
the marble flooring, is resplendent in blue, green, and yellow. The arcade
or vestibule on the W. side of the hall has stucco figures of Minerva
and a coffered ceiling in white and gold. The arcade to the S. is adorned
with 'Taintings by Henry 0. Walker, representing Poetry. In the N. arcade
are paintings by G. S. Pearce, representing the Family, Religion, Labour,
Study, Recreation, and Rest as factors in civilization. The E. arcade,
opening from the Hall by a triple Commemorative Arch, contains the Evolution
of the Book, painted by /. W. Alexander. The lobby beyond, leading to
the Reading Room (see below; this entrance for readers only), has five
paintings by Elihu Vedder, symbolizing different forms of Government. To
the left of the E. arcade is the Librarian' s Room, with a ceiling-painting
of Literature by E. J. Holslag. — The S.W. Cortain Corridor (on the side
next the court), leading to the S. from the Entrance Hall, has Greek Heroes
by Walter MeEwen. It opens on the gorgeous House of Representatives
Reading Room. In the S.W. Pavilion is the more dignified Senate Reading
Room, opposite which is the entrance to the Periodical Reading Room.
— The N.W. Curtain Corridor has paintings of the Muses by Edw.
Simmons. The N.W. Pavilion is decorated by Dodge and Thompson; it
contains an interesting exhibition of maps and charts, continued in the
Map Room.
We now ascend to the first floor. The Corridors above the arcades of
the Entrance Hall are adorned with symbolical frescoes of the Virtues (in a
Pompeian style) by Maynard (N. and S.), the Senses (on the ceiling) and
figures of Wisdom, Understanding, Knowledge, and Philosophy by Robert
Reid (S.), the Departments of Literature by Barse (E.), the Graces and
the Seasons by F. W. Benson (S.), and the Sciences by Shirlaw (W.). The
ether decorations are also elaborate. The W. Corridor contains Japanese
and Chinese prints, while in the N. corridor are Orientalia, early Bibles,
miniature books, and bindings. — The frescoes in the S.W. Gallery, by
Kmyon Cox, illustrate the Sciences and Arts, those in the S.W. Pavilion,
by Maynard, illustrate the Discovery and Settlement of America. These
two rooms, as well as the S. Gallery, are used for the exhibition of
etchings, engravings, woodcuts, and the like. The S. Gallery also con-
tains views and models of Washington, past, present, and future. — The
panels of Peace and War in the N.W. Gallery are by Melchers (American
MSB. and autographs; early American imprints); the paintings of Art,
Literature, Music, Science, and Ambition (ceiling) in the N.W. Pavilion
are by W. L. Bodge; the Elements in the S.E. Pavilion are by R. L. Dodge
and E. E. Garnsey ; the Seals of the U. S. in the N.E. Pavilion are by
Qarnsey and Van Ingen.
From the E, corridor (see above) a short staircase, the landing of which
is adorned with a fine mosaic of Minerva by Elihu Vedder, ascends to
the visitors' gallery of the 'Reading Room Rotunda, perhaps the finest
and most thoroughly satisfactory part of the whole building. The cham-
ber, which is 100 ft. in diameter and 125 ft. in height, accommodates about
300 readers (British Museum Reading Room 458; Bates Hall at Boston
250-300). It is richly adorned with dark marble from Tennessee, red
marble from Kumidia, and yellow marble from Siena. The eight massive
14*
218 Route 28. WASHINGTON. Botanic Gardens.
piers are surmounted by symbolical female figures of Religion (Baur),
History (French), Art (modelled by Dozzi from sketches by A. Saint-G-audens),
etc.; and along the parapet of the gallery are sixteen bronze statues of
persons eminent in the fields denoted by the symbolic figures. Among
these are Homer, by L. Saint-Gaudens, Shakspeare, by MacMonnies, Hero-
dotus, by French, etc. The dome is covered with elaborate cofl'ered or-
namentation in stucco, and round its 'collar' are frescoes by E. H. Blash-
field^ representing the Progress of Civilization (best seen from the floor of
the reading-room). Among the allegorical figures in this frieze may be
detected portraits of Ellen Terry (England), Mary Anderson (Middle Ages),
and Abraham Lincoln (America). The inside of the lantern is embellished
with an allegorical group of 'Human rnderstanding% also by E. H. Blash-
field (not visible from the gallery). The stained -glass windows exhibit
combinations of the arms of the Union and the various States. The clock
was designed by John Flanagan. Winding iron st drcases in the piers ascend
to the lantern and to an outside gallery encircling the rotunda and com-
manding a beautiful view. — The reading-room is admirably lighted, and
the arrangements for bringing the books from the 'stacks' to the readers
and the other practical equipments are of the latest and best description.
It is connected with the Capitol by a tunnel 1/4 M- long, 6 ft. high, and
4 ft. wide, by means of which a Member of Congress can procure a book
in 3 minutes.
The basement contains a Reading Room for the Blind., the Music Division.,
offices, lavatories, and store-rooms.
A large new Temple of Justice is to be erected to the N. of the Library
of Congress.
At tlie foot of tlie fliglits of steps descending from the terrace
on tlie W. side of the Capitol is a heroic Statue of Chief Justice
Marshall (1755-1835), by Story. The broad walk to the N. (r.) leads
to the Naval or Peace Monument, by Simmons. The walk to the S. (1.)
leads to t]ie Statue of President Garfield (1831-81), by J. Q.A.Ward.
The first part of the Reservation is occnpied by the Botanic
Gardens (PI. E, F, 4j 9-6), with palm-houses, conservatories, and
the handsome Bartholdi Fountain.
We may now walk through the two small parks to the W. of this
point and visit the building of the United States Fish Commission
(Pl.E, 4; entr. in 6th St. ; 9-4), where the processes of fish-breeding
may be inspected (aquarium), — A little farther to the W., beyond
7th St., stands the Army Medical Museum (Pl.E, 4; 9-4), containing
a pathological collection, a collection of army medical supplies,
and a library of 200,000 volumes. The exhibits all bear labels, and
explanatory tablets are placed at the entrances to many of the rooms.
In the library are cases with rare and old works on medicine, a touch-
piece used for the King's Evil, and other curiosities. — Adjacent are
monuments to Daguerre (1789-1851) and to Dr. Samuel D. Gross
(1805-84) ; the latter, by A. St. Calder, was erected by American
physicians in 1897.
Immediately to the W. of the Medical Museum is the *National
Museum (PL E,4), a large brick building 325 ft. square, containing
valuable and excellently arranged collections of natural history,
anthropology, and geology, derived mainly from the scientific opera-
tions of the U. S. Government (new building, see p. 221). It is
under the direction of the Smithsonian Institution (p. 220). Over
National Museum. WASHINGTON. 28. Route. 219
the entrance is a group representiug Columbia as protectress of
Science and Industry. Admission free, 9-4.30 (closed on Sun.).
As Prof. Miinsterberg points out, this , like other American mn-
seums, is not so mnch a collection of articles with their labels as a
series of instructive labels, illustrated by typical specimens.
Department of Anthropology. The North Hall or Hall of American
History (PI. I), which we lirst enter, is mainly devoted to a chronologically
arranged series of collections illustrating American history from the period
of discovery to the present day. Among the more interesting of the per-
sonal relics are those relating to Washington, Lincoln, Franklin, and
Grant. The wall-ca«es are mainly occupied by musical instruments. Over
the entrance is a large p&nel of Limoges fayence, representing man's
triumphs over the material universe, and at the entrance to the Rotunda
are two large vases of Limoges fayence made to commemorate the cen-
tennial of the Declaration of Independence. — The Rotunda (PI. 11) is
embellished with a fountain, above which rises the original model of the
statue of Liberty on the dome of the Capitol (p. 214). Large figures of
Buddha and Vishnu. Cases with Buddhistic relics from Burma; others
with historical relics of the war with Spain (from Cuba and the Philip-
pines). — In the West North Range (PI. XI) is the 'Collection of Paint-
ings by George CatUn, illustrating the manners and customs of the North
American Indians. Mr. Catlin spent 8 years (1832-40) among the Indians,
visiting 48 different tribes and painting all of the 600 paintings from nature.
The floor-cases illustrate the arts and customs of the Indian tribes between
the Atlantic coast and the Rocky Mts. — To the S. lies the North West
Range (PI. XII), with interesting exhibits pertaining to the tribes of the
N.W. coast of N. America (totem-poles, etc.) and of the Esquimaux on the
Arctic shores. — To the left is the North West Court (PI. XVII), the
exhibits of which illustrate the life of the Pueblo Indians of the S.W.
(comp. p. 221). The gallery above, entered from the Rotunda, contain? col-
lections of tribes in the S.W. part of N. America and Mexico. — The West
Hall (PI. XIII), entered from the N W. Range, contains European, African,
and Asiatic collections, the Japanese and Corean exhibits being especially
attractive. Here also is part of the Glover Collection of Chinese coins.
The N. Gallery has Polynesian collections, and the S. Gallery has a col-
lection of religious ceremonial objects.
We now cross the Rotunda to the East Hall (PI. VII), which con-
tains collections illustrating human progress in transportation, electricity,
domestic arts, etc. In the S.E. corner is a small Restaurant. — The North
East Range (PI. VIII) is occupied by a very extensive series, illustrating
naval architecture. — The North East Court (PI. X), entered from the
East Hall, is occupied by the graphic art exhibit. The gallery cuntains
ollections of ceramics, etc. — The East North Range (PI. IX) now con-
tains a number of paintings, bequeathed to form a nucleu.s for a National
Museum of Art («omp. p. 224). These include the Harriet Lane Johnston
Collection, with examples of Pourbus, Jan'isens, Beechey, Hoppner, Con-
stable, Lawrence, Romney, and Reynolds 5 the Edicard Moran Collection
of scenes from American naval history; and the Tuckerman Collection,
with works by Vibert, Zamacois, and others. C'n one wall hangs 'The
March of Time', a huee work with numerous portraits, by Henry Sandham.
[The extensive collection of American antiquities is exhibited in the
Smithsonian building, first floor (see p. 221).)
Department of Biology. This Department covers the field of zoo.iOgy
and botany. The collections exhibited are chiefly American, but the
museum is also rich in material from all parts of the world. — To
the S. of the East Hall is the South East Range (PI. IV), with casts of
American fishes, reptiles, and batraehians. — The East South Range
(PI. V) contains an extensive osteological collectioij arranged systemat-
ically. The cast of one side of a Humpback whale, 32 feet long, with
the skeleton inserted in it, and skeletons of various other whales are
suspended from the ceiling. Special series illustrating such subjects as
220 Route 28. WASHINGTON. Smithsonian Institution
the homologies of the skull and limbs, the structure and modifications
of teeth, skin , etc., are also exhibited, and an extensive series of em-
bryological models. The collections include specimens of great rarity,
such as skeletons of the extinct Arctic Sea Cow from the Commander Is-
lands, Bering Sea, the Great Auk from Coast of Labrador, and the Gigantic
Land Tortoise of Abingdon Island, in the Galapagos Archipelago. — The
SoDTH Hall (PL III) is devoted to mammals. The groundfloor is occupied
by an extensive series of American mammals, including well -mounted
specimens of the bison, moose, caribou, and prong-horn antelope, with
accessories representing their natural surroundings. The gallery of this
hall (entrance from the Rotunda) contains a representation of the mammal-
fauna of the Old World. The African antelopes are especially interesting.
Department of Geology. The South West Range (PI. XIV), entered
from the W. Hall, is occupied by the exhibits of the Division of Mineralogy.
The principal series are collections of minerals (some 8000 specimens)^
cut stones (3500 specimens), and meteorites (300 specimens). — In the
Division of Systematic Geology^ in the West South Range (PI. XV), are ex-
hibited (a) collections of rock-forming minerals and rocks, (b) an especially
fine series of cave and volcanic products and an American stratigraphic
series of rocks and fossils. — The Division of Applied Geology in the South
West Coukt (PI. XVI) contains economic materials, comprising on the
groundfloor (a) an extensive series (3000 specimens) of building and ornamen-
tal stones and (b) a series illustrating the mineral resources of the United
States. In the gallery is a systematic series of economic products, com-
prising ores of gold, silver, copper, coals, petroleums, etc. — The South
East Coukt (PI- VI ; entered from Room V) contains the exhibits of the
Division of Vertebrate Palaeontology^ including a considerable series of ver-
tebrate remains, mainly American, and especially rich in the striking
Triceratops forms from the Cretaceous formations of Wyoming; rare speci-
mens of BrontotTierium, Elotlierium^ Miohippm, and other genera from the
Miocene, and Rhinoceros and other mammals from the Pliocene formations.
In the gallery (entrance from the Rotunda) is a systematic series of in-
vertebrate fossils, probably the richest in the world in Cambrian forms.
The collection of fossil insects is also large, the palaeozoic portion being
equalled only by that from the coal fields of Commentry, France. In the
galleries of the E. S. and W. S. Ranges are fossil plants, including the
'Lacoe Collection' (100,000 specimens from the Pennsylvania coal-measures).
Just to the W. of the National Museum stands the *Sinitlisoiiian
Institution (PL D, 4; open free on week-days, 9-4.30), a red stone
building; in the late-Norman style, erected in 1847-56 at a cost of
$ 450,000 (90,000 L). The loftiest of the nine towers is 145 ft. high.
In front of it is a Statue of Prof. Joseph Henry (1799-1878), the first
secretary of the Institution, by Story. Secretary, Chas. D. Walcott.
The Smithsonian Institution was founded with the proceeds of a legacy
of $ 515,000 bequeathed by an Englishman, Mr. James Smithson (1765-1829), a
natural son of the Duke of Northumberland, 'for the increase and diffusion
of knowledge among men'. So far as is known Mr. Smithson, who was
distinguished as a chemist and mineralogist, never visited America t, and
had no personal relations with that country; and his choice of Washington
for the establishment of bis institution is supposed to be due to his sym-
pathy with the democratic principles represented by the Western Republic.
The policy of the Institution is to encourage research, and it has been
the chief promotor of the scientific investigation of the climate, products,
and antiquities of the United States. It possesses a library of 250,000 vols,
(deposited in the Library of Congress) and issues three series of publica-
tions of great scientific value.
The Ground Floor is devoted to part of the exhibits of the Biological
t His remains were brought to America in 1904 and placed in the
Smithsonian Institution.
Washington Obelisk . WASHINGTON. 28. Route. 221
Vevarlmeni of the National Museum (p. 219). The Main Hall contains a
systematic Collection of Birds (9000 specimens) and also the Collection
of MoUusks. A small room to the S., opposite the entrance, contains
birds, insects, shells, corals, sponges, and minerals arranged for the study
of children. — In the adjoining Cobeidoe Hall is the Collection of North
American Insects, with exhibits illustrating protective mimicry and kindred
phenomena. — The West Hall contains a colossal statue of George
Washington, by Greenough, and the Marine Invertebrates. Fromi the roof
hang models of the giant squid and the octopus.
The First Floor contains the "Archaeological Collections of the Depart-
ment of Anthropology (p. 219), which, as regards American antiquities, are
very extensive. A number of 'Culture Regions'" are especially well re-
presented: — 1. Mexican and Central American Collections, including many
casts of stone monuments. — 2. Miscellaneous Collections of Indian Relics,
such as are found generally distributed over the United States and the
British Possessions. — 3. Collections from the Mounds, including sculptures,
tobacco-pipes, pottery, and implements ot stone, bone, shell, and copper.
On tlie opposite side of the Mall, facing the Smithsonian, is the
*New National Museum (PI. D, 4), a large and dignified building
in white granite, hy Hornhlower ^ Marshall. It will he ready
in 1910. The exterior has heen designed to harmonize with the
older public buildings in Washington based on classic forms.
The next part of the MaU, beyond 12th St., contains the building
of the Department of Agriculture (PI. D, 4; 9-4). It includes a
herbarium and conservatories of economic plants [all open to visitors);
and the grounds in front of it are devoted to an arboretum arranged
by families. The library and several bureaux of the Department
have been transferred to a new white marble and brick building of
which the wings were completed in 1908. To the E. of the old
building is the Sequoia Tree Tower, formed of a section of a huge
Sequoia (p. 465), which was 26 ft. in diameter at the base and
300 ft. high.
In B St., near the S.W. corner of the Agricultural Grounds , is
the*Bureau of Engraving and Printing (PI. D, 4), where the highly
interesting processes of the manufacture of paper money, bonds, and
stamps are shown to visitors (9-11.45 and 12.30-3).
We have now reached the open grounds in which the *Waslmig-
ton Obelisk (PI. D, 4), a unique monument of dignity and simpli-
city, rears its lofty form to the skies.
The Washington Obelisk, a worthy memorial of a great man, was
begun in 1848, abandoned in 1855, resumed in 1877, and finished in 18S4,
at a total cost of $ 1,300,000 (260,000?.). It is constructed of white Maryland
marble and is 555 ft. high (Metropolitan Life Insurance Building at New
York, 693 ft. ; Philadelphia City Hall, 547 ft ; spires of Cologne Cathedral
511 ft.). The walls are 15 ft. thick at the base and IV2 ft. at the top.
The pyramidal roof is 55 ft. high and is capped with a piece of alumi-
nium. The monument is open from 9 to 5.30, and may be ascended either
by the 900 steps (fatiguing ; 20-25 min.) or by the elevator (8 min. ; free)
which runs every 1/2 hr. (last ascent at 4.30). Stone tablets presented by
diiierent States and corporations are inserted in the walls.
The top commands a magnificent *View of the city of Washington
and its surroundings. Arlington (p. 227) is seen to the E. across the
Potomac. Among the points at a little distance are the Observatory
(p. 226; N.W.). the Soldiers' Home and Howard University (p. 226; N.),
222 Route 2S. WASHINGTON. Treasury Building.
the R. 0. University (p. 227; N.E.), and Alexandria (p. 228; S.). On a
clear day the Blue Ridge Mts. are seen to the N.W., the prominent Sugar-
loaf being about 50 M. distant.
To the S. of the Obelisk are the Propagating Gardens (PI. C?
D, 4). Along the river here extends the Potomac Park and Speed-
way (^Pl. B-D, 4, 5), vrith two bridges (PI. C. 5) near the site of the
old Long Bridge, over which the Federal troops marched into Yir-
ginia during the Civil AVar.
We may now ascend loth St., skirting the President's or Executive
Groundii (PI. 0, D, 3, 4; band in summer") on the left and passing
Chase's Theatre {Grand Opera House; p. 'HI) and the Liy/it Infantry
Armoury on the right. To the left, opposite the Regent Hotel (p. '211),
is the fine equestrian ^MoJiument of General Sherman (1S'20-91\ by
Rohl-Smith, erected in 1903. The pedestal is embellished with
bronze reliefs, medallions, and figures of Indian women, and at the
corners of the podium are four sentinels. — To the N. of this, opposite
F St., stands the *TreasTiry BuUding (PI. D, 3 ; 9-'2 , parties led
round between 11 & I'J and 1 & '2), an immense edifice, 510 ft. long
and '2S0 ft. wide, with an Ionic colonnade on the E. front and porticos
on the other three sides (entrance at N.E. comer). Among the chief
objects of interest are the U. S. Cash Boom, in the N. corridor: the
Bedemption Division, in the basement; the Silver Vaults, con-
taining bullion and coin to the value of hundreds of millions of
dollars; and the Secret Service Division, W. side of '2nd floor, with
its collection of forged money and portraits of forgers.
In Pennsylvania Ave. , to the N. of the Treasury, stands the
Department of Justice; and a little farther to the N., at the corner of
loth and H Sts., is the George Washington University (PL D, 3;
loOO students). Opposite the last, with its facade in H St., is the
new building of the ^Union Trust Co., by Wood, Dunn, & Deming
(1908). — In the Bond Building, at the S. W. corner of New York
Ave. and i4th St.. is the office of the Carnegie Institution, founded
by Mr. Carnegie in 190'2. The endowment is now $ 1*2.000.000.
The object of the Foundation, to advance scientific research, is pro-
moted on the one hand by a variety of special grants to individual in-
vestigators, and on the other hand by systematic researches carried out
by a number of organized departments (astronomical, botanical, biolotiical,
economic, geophysical, bistoncal, etc.)- ^loj^t of these departments have
their chief seat of work in other places in the United States, selected
because of their special fitness for the particular work. The deviartments
of research in geophysics (p. 227), terrestrial magnetism, and history are
located in Wa<hin::ton. — A dignified permanent building is being erected
at the S.E. corner of l6th and P Sts. (PI. D, 2).
Follo%%ing Pennsylvania Ave. towards the W., we reach (to the
right) Lafayette Sqi-are (PL C, D, 3), -with a bronze Statue of
Ocn. Andrew Jackson (1T67-1S45\ by Clark Mills, the Bochambeau
Monument (^SAY.^, by F. Hamar\l90'2\ and the Lafayette Mon-
ument (S.E.), by Falguiere and Mercie'. On the E. side of the square
is the Belasco Theatre (PL D, 3), occupying the site of the house in
which an attempt was made to assassinate Secretary Seward In 1865.
WhUe House. WASHINGTON. 28. Route. 223
Opposite Lafayette Sq. is the entrance to the *White House or
Executive Manaion of the President of the United States (PI. C, D, 3).
The Executive Mansion is a two-storied stone building, painted white,
170 ft. long and 86 ft. deep, with an Ionic portico. It was'fonnded in 1792,
occupied by President Adams in 180'J, burned by the British in 1814, and
rebuilt in 1818. In 19(^2-3 the whole building was admirably restored,
within and without, by Mr. McKim, who resuscitated many features of
the original architect, .James Huban. The public entrance is now in a
colonnade to the E., whence a basement-corridor, hung with portraits of
Mistresses of the White House and containing specimens of the china used
in the White House at various epochs, leads to the staircases ascending
to the public rooms. The corresponding esplanade or terrace on the W.
side connects the house with the new Executive Offices and Cabinet Room. —
The large Ecut Room f80 ft. x40 ft. x22 ft.) is open to the public from 10
to 2. The Reception Roorm^ which contain portraits of Presidents and
valuable gifts, and the handsome Dining Ptoorn are shown by special order
only. The rest of the house is private. — The Grounds surrounding the
house are 75 acres in extent. The Marine Band fp. 211) gives concerts in
the grounds to the S. of the house, on Sat. aftem'jons in summer, and
children have the privilege of rolling their coloured e:ig8 here at Easter.
To the W. of the White House is the huge building of the State,
War, and Navy Departments (PI. C, 3; 9-2), enciosing two courts
and measuring 567 ft. in length by 342 ft. in breadth.
The N. and W. wings are occupied bv the "War Department, where
the Secretary's Apartments and the adjoining corridors contain a collec-
tion of Portraits of Secretaries of War and Generals^ including one of
Washington by D. Huntington. The Library, on the 4ih floor, contains
a fine collection of books on military science and the late Civil War.
The Navy Department is in the E. part of the building and contains
models of war-ships, portraits, etc. The Library, on the 3rd floor, is a
fine room with 25, 000 volumes.
The 'Department of State (corresponding to the Foreign Office in Lon-
don) occupies the S. part of the building. Among the rooms usuaily shown
^0 visitors are the Dipl(jmatic Reception P^ooms, containing portraits of the
Secretaries of State from 17>-9 to the present day, and the Library (2nii
floor; 70,000 vols.), with Jefferson's original draft of the Declaration of
Independence and other relics.
To the W. of the State Building, between 18th and 19th Sts., is the
site of the new Hall of Records. — At the comer of 18th St. tnd New
York Avenue is Octagon House (PI. C, 3), an intere=ting building of 1798-
1800 by Thornton (p. 213), now owned and occupied by the American In-
stitute of Architects.
In 17th St., to the S-W. of the State Building, between New
York Ave. and E St., is the *Corcoran Gallery of Art (PI. C, 3),
built and endowed by the late Mr. W. W. Corcoran and open daily,
from 9.30 (Mon. from 12) till 4 and on Sun. from 1.30 to 4.30
(holidays iO-2; adm. on Mon., Wed., & Frid. 25 c.; other days free;
closed on Christmas and from .July 1st to Oct. 1st). The present
building, erected in 1894-97, is a handsome white marble structure
in a Neo-Grecian style, by Ernest Flagg. The semicircular hall at
the N. end is used for occasional exhibitions, while the rest of this
part of the building is Ofcnpied by a School of Art (300 pupUs). The
steps to the main entrance are flanked by colossal bronze lions,
modelled on those by Canova at the tomb of Pope Clement XIII.
Catalogue of paintings 25 c, of casts, etc., 15 c.
224 Route 28. WASHINaXON. Corcoran Gallery.
Ground Floor. The Atkidm contains casts. — The numbers over the
doors are not the numbers of the rooms, but the following description
begins on the E. side, to the left of the staircase, and takes them in con-
secutive order. Room I. Bronzes by Barye (over 100 pieces). — Room n.
Original sculptures, including busts by Powers and iJawc/i (Alex, von Hum-
boldt), the Sun Vow group by MacNeil^ and a large bust of Emp. William II.
by Schott. — Room III. Sculptures. *2010. Powers, Greek slave (1843);
2006. Canova, Colossal head of Napoleon; 2015. Rinehart, Endymion. —
Room IV. Large English and Japanese vases. Electrotype reproductions. —
Rooms V-VII. Casts. In R. Vn are one or two small bronzes by Remington.
— The other rooms on this floor are occupied by the library, offices, etc.
Upper Floor. Central Hall. *Last Days of Napoleon I., a seated marble
figure by Vincemo Vela. — The Central Hall also contains temporarily the
Evans Collection of the National Gallery (comp. p. 219), including specimens
oilnness, La Farge, Blakelock, Twachtman, Homer Martin, W. Homer, Abbey,
Wyant, and other American painters. — Room I (N.W.), contains a collection
of pictures lent by ex-Senator W. A. Clark, including a good ^'Rembrandt
and other works by or ascribed to eminent masters. — Room n (N.B.).
To the left: Thomas Cole, 2. The departure, 4. (farther on), The return; 3.
C. H. Boughton, The heir presumptive ; 1. C. L. Elliott, Portrait of Mr. Cor-
coran; 7. Whittredge, Landscape; 18. Boughton. Edict of "William the Testy;
10. R. jy. Brooke, Pastoral visit; 17. Kensett, Landscape; 19. Harry Chase,
Harbour of New York; 28. Bridgman, Procession of the Sacred Bull Apis-
Osiris; 30. W. T. Richards, Coast-scene; 36. F. E. Church, Niagara Falls;
140. George Fuller, Loretto. — In the small room adjoining are a few small
pictures, including 210. Landscape, by Joseph Jefferson, the actor; 202. The
relief ship, and 206. Distributing supplies in a Russian famine, both by
Aivasowsky. — Room III. Left: *44. Brush, Mother and Child; 53. W. L.
Picknell, The road to Concarneau; 62. Edwin Lord Weeks, Departure for the
hunt (India) ; 67. Inness, Landscape; 71. Winslow Homer, Light on the sea;
75. Ben Foster, The lonely road. R. III. has several other landscapes by
Doughty, and other American painters. — Room IV. 79. Schreyer, Watering-
place; 80. J.A.Breton, Breton widow; 83. Pauwels, Justice to LievinPyn;
84. Cazin, Moonlight in Holland; 85. Diaz, Approaching storm; 87. Josef
Israels, By the cradle; *89. Corot, Wood-gatherers; 93. Dupri, The pond
of the great oak; *99. Dauhigny, Scene on the Seine; 95. Oito von Thoren,
Lost dogs; 96. Van Mar eke. Landscape with cattle; 98. Isabey, Wedding;-
102. C. L. Mailer, Charlotte Corday in prison; 105 /. Faed, Shakspeare
and his contemporaries ; 106. George Morland, The farm-house: 109. Vibert,
The schism; 110. Henner, Joan of Arc in infancy; li2. Leroux, The Vestal
Tuccia; 113. Troyon, Going to drink; 116. Courbet, Landscape; 118. F. H.
Kdmmerer, Beach at Scheveningen; *119. Detaille^ Passing regiment. —
Room V. 137. Renouf, A helping hand ; Braekeleer, 136. Happy family, 139.
Unhappy family; 141. Bjorek, Nail-makers. — Room VI. Portraits of Pre-
sidents and others, including works by Gilbert Stuart, Healy, Sully, Mal-
bone (himself), R. Peale, Duplessis, Lenbach (Bismarck), and Guiherz (Miss
Susan B. Anthony). — Room VII. 159. Detaille, General of the First Em-
pire; 161. Cazin, Landscape; 164. Van Marcke, Cattle; 166. if. i/(?«pe5, Vista;
168. Rosa Bonheur, Bull; 170. E. L. Warner, Broadway on a rainy evening
(water-colour); 172. Detaille, French cuirassiers with Bavarian prisoners;
175. De Neuville., Champigny. — Room VIII. 185. A. Bierstadt, Mt. Corcorap;
186. R. Peale, Washington before Yorktown; 187. Ary Schefer, Count Eber-
hard ofWurtemberg; 188. 0. Achenbach, Festival at Naples; 189. TF. M. Chase,
The model (pastel); 190. Vail, Ready about; 192. G&r6me, Csesar dead.
Also in 17th St., a little to the S. of the Corcoran Gallery, are
the new Continental Hall (PI. C, 3), built hy the Daughters of the
American Revolution, and the new building of the International
Bureau of American Republics (PI. C, 4), designed by Kelsey & Cret.
The latter, to be erected at a cost of $ 1,000,000 ($ 750,000 contributed
by Mr. Andrew Carnegie), will serve as the international headquarters of
21 American Republics. Director, Mr. John Barrett.
Pension Office. WASHINGTON. 28. Route. 225
We now return to tlie Treasury (p. 222) and foUow F St. towards
the E. to the Greneral Land Office (PI. E, 3), a handsome building in
the Corinthian style. Opposite stands the Department of tlie Interior
(9-2), often called the Patent Office from one of its most important
bureaux, a huge building, with a Doric portico.
This building contains tlie rooms of the Secretary of the Interior, the In-
dian Office, etc. (adm. on application to the attendants). The upper floor is oc-
cupied by four halls containing a Collection of Patents and Models. Some of
the most interesting have been removed to the National Museum (p. 218).
At 5th St. F St. reaches Judiciary Scitjabe (PI. E, 3), on the N.
side of which stands the Pension Office (open 9-4) , an enormous
barn-like structure of brick, 400 ft. long and 200 ft. wide. It is
surrounded by a terracotta frieze , illustrating military and naval
operations. The interior, with its mammoth columns (75 ft. high),
can accommodate about 20,000 people at an inauguration ball. — On
the S. side is the District Court House (or City Half)., occupied by
the District of Columbia Courts. In front is a column bearing a
Statue of Lincoln^ by Flannery. Hard by, in the triangle between
3rd St. and Indiana Ave. (PI. E, 3), is a statue of Gen. A. Pike.
Near by, in B St., between 1st and 2nd Sts., is the large Census
Bureau (PI. E, F, 4), in which a large staff is constantly at work.
The enumerating machines are especially interesting. This bureau
belongs to the Department of Commerce ^ Labour., the temporary
offices of which are at 513 14th St. — To the N.E. of this point, at
the cor. of N. Capitol and H Sts., is the Government Printing Office
(PI. F, 3; parties shown round at 10 and 2), a 12-story building
erected at a cost of $ 2,000,000.
Ford's Theatre (PI. D, 3; now used by Government), in wMch
President Lincoln was assassinated by Wilkes Booth on April 14th,
1865, is in 10th St. A house opposite (No. 576) bears a tablet stating
that Lincoln died there and contains a collection of Lincoln relics
(adm. 25 c). — On the S. side of Pennsylvania Ave., between
Uth and 12th Sts., is the Post Office (PI. D, 3; 1899J, with a tower
300 ft. high. It accommodates the U.S. Post Office Department, the
Auditor for the P. 0. Department, and the City Post Office. The
Dead Letter Office Museum, on the groundfloor, is open from 9 to 4.
— At the corner of Pennsylvania Ave. and 14th St. is the new ^District
Building (PI. D, 3), completed in 1908, and occupied by the District
Commissioners (p. 212) and other officials of the local government.
At the intersection of Massachusetts Ave. and New York Ave.
is Mt. Vernon Square, containing the *Public Library (PI. E, 3), a
white marble building, presented by Mr. Andrew Carnegie and
designed by Ackerman & Ross. It contains about 105,000 volumes.
Librarian, Mr. George F. Bowerman.
A visit may be paid (tramway along 9th St.) to the Washington
Barracks (PI. E, 6), now used as an artillery station (drill 9-11 a.m.)
and the *Army War College (PI. E, 6), a fine brick building by
226 Route 28. WASHINGTON. Naval Observatory.
McKim, Meade, & White (1903-8). In front of it is a Statue of
Frederick the Great by T. Uphues, presented to the United States "by
Emp. William II.
About 1 M. to tlie N.E. (tramway on M St.), on tlie Anacostia
(p. 212), is theWasMugton Navy Yard (PI. G, 5; open from 9 a.m. to
sunsetl, with a mnseum, an important gun-fonndry, and manufactories
of naval stores. — A little to the N. are the Marine Barracks (PL G, 5),
where the band plays In summer every Mon. at 11 a.m. — Farther
to the E. are the Congressional Cemetery (PL H, 5), containing the
graves of many Members of Congress; the U. S. Jail (10-4); and
the Alms House. — On the S. side of the Anacostia is the large
Government Insane Asylum (PL G, 6; 1500 inmates). — From the
Jail we may return through Massachusetts Ave. to (3/4 M.) Lincoln
Square (PL G, H, 4), with Ball's Emancipation Group (comp. p. 263),
whence tramways and omnibuses run to the city.
In the N.W. part of the city lies the Naval Observatory (PL
A, 1 ; 9-3), which is excellently equipped. Visitors are sometimes
admitted on Thurs. evening to look through the 26 -inch equatorial
telescope (by special permit from the Superintendent). — The old
Observatory is now used as a Museum of Hygiene (PL B, 3; 9-2),
and a statue of Dr. Benj. Rush (1745-1813) has been placed in its
grounds. — At the corner of M and 24th Sts. is the Signal Office
and Weather Bureau (PL B, 2; 9-2). The arrangements for fore-
casting the weather are most interesting.
Many of the Cikcles (see p. 212) are adorned with statues, among which
are the following : Washington (equestrian), by Clark Mills, in Washington
Circle (PI B, 3); Gen. Sheridan (equest.), by Gutzon Borglam, in Sheridan
Circle (PI. B, 2); Adm Dupont^ by Launt Thompson, in Dupont Circle (PI.
C, 2)5 Gen. Winfield Scott (equest.), by H. K. Brown, in Scott Circle (PI.
C, D, 2), which also contains a monument to Hahnemann (1755-1843), the
founder of homeopathy, by Ch. H. Niehaus; Adm. Farragut, by Mrs. Hoxie
(Vinnie Ream), in Farragut Sq. (PI. C, 3); Gen. McPherson (equest.), by
Rebisso, in McPherson Sq. (PI. 0,3); Gen. Thomas (equest.), by J. Q.A.Ward,
in Thomas Circle (PL D, ?); Martin Luther (just to the N. of the last), a
replica of the figure by Rietschel (at Worms); Ben. Franklin., by Plassman
and Juvenal, at the intersection of Pennsylvania Ave. and 10th St. (PI.
D, 3); Gen. Logan (equest.), by F. A. Simmons, in Iowa Circle (PI. D, 2);
Gen. W. S. Hancock (equest.), by Ellicott, and Gen. RaicUns, by Bailly,
at the crossing of Louisiana and Pennsylvania Aves. (PI. E, 4); Gen. Greene
(equest.), by Brown, in Stanton Sq. (PI. G, 3,4); Gen. Mcdellan (equest.),
by MacJlonnies, at the intersection of Connecticut Ave., Columbia Road,
and California St. (PL C, 1).
The Columbia Institution for the Deaf and Dumb (PL G, 2) consists
of two parts, the Kendall Green School and Gallaudet College. In the grounds
is a bronze group by Dan. C. French, Gallaudet teaching a deaf child.
One of the favourite Drives in Washington is that to the *Soldiers'
Home, a large asylum for old soldiers (750 inmate*), situated in a beautiful
park to the N. of the city, 3 M. from the Capitol (also reached by tram-
way). On the way to it we pass the Howard University (PI E, 1), founded
in 1867 for the education of youth irrespective of colour or sex (1000 stud-
ents). The grounds of the Soldiers' Home afford fine views ('Capitol
Vista', etc.) and contain a Statue of Gen. Scott, founder of the Home, by
Launt Thompson. President Lincoln spent part of the summers of his pre-
Environs. WASHINGTON. 28. Route. 227
sidential term in one of the cottages at the Soldiers' Home. — To the If.
lies the National Military Cemetery^ with the graves of Gen, Logan, Gen.
Kearney, and TUOO soldiers. On the W. this is adjoined by Rock Greek Cem-
etery., containing Saint -Gaudens's beautiful * Monument to Mrs. Henry
Adams. — To the E. of the Soldiers' Home Park is the important
Catholic University of America (200 students), around which has grown up
a somewhat remarkable group of ecclesiastical establishments, including a
Franciscan Convent^ houses of 'he Dominicans^ Paulists, and Marists, and Trinity
College (for young women). We may now return vmGlemoood Cemetery (Pl.F, i).
Georgetown (PI. A, B, 2), or West Washington (tramway), beyond Rock
Creek, lies at the head of the Potomac navigation and is the port of entry
for the District of Columbia. It contains large flour-mills, the handsome
Georgetown University, an old Jesuit institution founded in 1789 (785 students ;
fine library), and the Convent of the Visitation (PL A, 2). In M St., near the
Aqueduct Bridge, is the house of Francis Scott Key (p. 350). In Oak Hill
Cemetery (PI. B, 2) is the grave of John Howard Payne (pp. 77, 81).
To the N. of Georgetown, on Rock Creek, lies the "National Zoological
Park (comp. PI. C, 1), reached from Washington in V2 hr. by two lines
of tramway. This large park (170 acres 5 open free) does not contain a
very large number of animals, but it is interesting to see such native
animals as the bison and moose in the comparative freedom of their ex-
tensive enclosures. The large aviary (158 ft. long), the kangaroos, the
house of the smaller carnivora, the beavers, and the prairie ddgs deserve
special attention. — The new Concrete Bridge (1908; 1420 ft. long) over the
Kock Creek (PI. B, 1), a little to the S. of the Zoological Park, will interest
both expert and layman. — One line of cars goes on past the Zoological Park
to Chevy Chase, with its country club and golf-links. — "Rock Creek Park,
to the N. of the Zoological Park, has an area of over IBOO acres and
extends to the District line. Its natural beauties are very great. — On
Mt. St. Alban, near Woodley, to the N.W. of Georgetown, is the Peace Cross,
a large Celtic cross erected at the close of the war with Spain (1898)
on the grounds of the new Episcopal Cathedral, of which the corner-stone
was laid in 1907. It affords a fine view of Washington. — On the Chevy
Chase Road, to the N.W. of the Zoological Park, are the National Bureau
of Standards and the Geophysical Laboratory of the Carnegie Institution
(p. 222).
To Arlington and National Cemeteet. A 'Sight Seeing Automobile'
leaves 600 Pennsylvania Ave. at 10, 2, and 4 for a visit to Arlington
Cemetery and Fort Meyer (fare $ IV2). Or we may go by tramway to the
Union Station (PI. A, 2) at the Georgetown Aqueduct (PI. A, 3), cress the bridge,
and take the electric car to (V4 hr.) the gate near (1 M.) Fort Myer (return-
fare 15 c). Another alternative is to take the electric car from the cor.
of Pennsylvania Ave. and 131/2 St. to the Sherman Gate of the cemetery
(hourly; return-fare 20 c). Public carriages (hardly necessary) meet the
cars at the Fort Myer gate and make the round of the cemetery (25 c. ;
stopover allowed at the mansion). The National Cemetery (PI. A, 4, 5)
contains the graves of about 16, 0(X) soldiers. ^Arlington House, in the middle
of the grounds, 200 ft. above the river, was once the residence of George
Washington Parke Cusfis (step-grandson of Washington) and afterwards of
Gen. Robert Lee (p. 193), who married Miss Custis. Fine '=View of Wash-
ington. Near the house are the graves of Gen. Sheridan (d. 1888), Adm.
Porter (d. 1891), Gen. Lawton (d. 1899), Gen. Wheeler (d. 1906), and other
distinguished officers. To the S. is a tomb containing the remains of 2111
unknown soldiers. _ The sailors destroyed by the blowing up of the 'Maine'
in 1898 and other victims of the war with Spain are buried in the S. part
of the cemetery (monument).
From the Union Station at Georgetown (see above) the Washington and
Geeat Falls Electeic Railway runs along the Palisades of the Potomac to
(7 M.) Cabin John Bridge^ one of the largest stone arches in the world
(220 ft. ; Petrusse Valley Bridge in Luxembourg 275 ft.), built by Gen. Meigs
for the Washington Aqueduct (fare 10 c). About 1 M. short of the bridge
is Glen Echo Park, the headquarters of the Red Cross Society. About 5 M.
228 Route 28. MOUNT VERNON.
beyond tlie bridge are the ''Great Falls of the Potomac. — On Wesley Heights,
to the N. of this line, is the American University (Methodist).
Feom Washington to Nobfolk, 196 M., steamer daily (from 7th St.
Wharf) at 6.30 p.m., arriving at 8 a.m. (fare $ 3, stateroom $ 1-3; second
class $ 2, berths free). — From Washington to Mt. Vernon., see below ; thence
to (105 M.) Point Lookout, see p. 210. — 184 M. Fort Monroe, see p. 563;
192 M. Newport News, see p. 561. — 196 M. Norfolk, see p. 561.
Railway Excubsions to Annapolis (p. 209), Harper's Ferry (p. 351), the
Shenandoah Valley (p. 597), etc. A special through-train of the Wash-
ington, Baltimore, & Annapolis Electric Railway, starting at the comer
of 15th and H Sts., runs daily at 10.30 a.m. to Annapolis (fare 75 c).
From Washington to Baltimore, see E. 27; to Chicago, see E. 49; to
Louisville, see R. 90; to New Orleans, see R. 91; to New York, see R. 27;
to Richmond, see R. 88.
Feom "Washington to Mount Vebnon. This trip, which should
on no account he omitted, may he made either hy steamer (15 M.)
or hy electric railway (16 M.; 1 hr.). The steamer, which descends
the Potomac, starts daily from 7th St. Wharf (PI. E, 5) at 10 a.m.
and 2.30 p.m. (1.45 p.m. in winter), allowing 2 hrs. at Mt. Vernon,
and regaining Washington at 2.15 and 6.15 p.m. (1.40 and 5.15p.m.
in winter; return-fare 75 c, incl. adm. to Mt. Vernon). It passes
(6Y2 M.) Alexandria (see below; steam- ferry, see p. 211), Fort Foote
(81/2 M.), and (12 M.) Fort Washington. — The electric cars, starting
hourly from 10 a.m. till 2 p.m. from the corner of Pennsylvania
Ave. and 12th St. (PI. D, 3; return-fare 75 c), also pass (71/2 M.)
Alexandria {FUischmann Ho.^ $ 2, R. from $ 1), a quaint oldVirginian
city of 14,588 inhabitants. The objects of interest here (all easily
seen in 1/2 ^- 5 boy-guides demand 25 c. for each pers. hut should
be offered less for a party) include Christchurch (N. Columbus St. ;
adm. 10 c), with the pews in which Washington and Gen. Robert
Lee used to worship; the old Carlyle House, in Fairfax St. (reached
through the Braddock House), the headquarters of Gen. Braddock
in 1755 (in a very dilapidated condition; adm. 10 c); and the so-
called Lord Fairfax House, at the corner of Cameron and St. Asaph
Sts., a fine example of the Colonial style. Col. Ellsworth, the first
man to die in the Civil War, was killed in the Marshall House, at
the corner of King and Pitt Sts. Adjoining the city is another
National Cemetery, with 4000 graves. At (16 M.) the terminus of
the electric railway is a refreshment room.
Mount Vernon, an old-fashioned wooden mansion, 96 ft. long,
stands on a bluff, 200 ft. above the river, and commands a splendid
view. The estate, originally named Hunting Creek and comprising
8000 acres, was inherited by George Washington in 1752 from his
brother Lawrence, who had changed the name in honour of his
former commander, Adm. Vernon of the British navy. The central
part of the house was built by Lawrence, and the wings were added
by George Washington. The house and 200 acres of land around
it were bought by the Mt. Vernon Ladies Association in 1859 for
$200,000 and have been restored as nearly as possible to their con-
dition in George Washington's lifetime.
MONTPELIER. 29. Route. 229
The house (adm. 25 c.; closed on Sun.) contains a number of in-
teresting relics, of which, perhaps, the key of the BastOle is the most
notahle. The room in which Washington died is at the S. end of the
first floor, and Mrs. Washington died in the one immediately above it. The
room marked Mrs. Washington's Sitting Room was more probably George
Washington's Business Room. The brick Barn is probably the oldest part of
the buildings (1163). The Coach House contains Washingtons carriage.
The -Garden contains trees planted by Washington, Jefferson, and Franklin.
On the slope between the river and the house is the plain brick Tomb
of George Washington, containing the sarcophagi of the General (1732-99)
and his wife Martha (1730-1802). !Near the Tomb are trees planted as
memorials by Edward ^TI., Prince Henry of Prussia, and others.
29. From New York to Chicago.
a. Yik PhiladelpMa and Pittsburg.
912 m. Pennsylvania Raileoad in 18-28 hrs. (fare $20; sleeper $5).
To the W. of Pittsburg we may go either via Crestline and Fort Wayne
or via Columbus and Logansport (see E,. 48). The 'Limited' and 'Special'
trains on this route consist entirely of Pullman vestibuled cars and offer
every imaginable comfort to the traveller. They are provided with a dining
car, a library, a smoking and outlook car, a barber's shop, a bath, a
ladies' maid, and a stenographer. An extra-fare of $ 10 (not including
sleeper) is charged on the 'Pennsylvania Special', leaving isew York at
4 p.m. and reaching Chicago at 8.55 a.m., while there are extra-fares of
$ 3-5 on the other 'Limited trains'.
From New York to (90 M.) Philadelphia., see R. 16; from
PhiladelpMa to (444 M.) Pittsburg, see R. 22 ; from Pittsburg to
(912 M.) Chicago (Canal St. Station), see R. 48. The most beautiful
part of the route is that between Philadelphia and Pittsburg.
b. Via Buffalo and Detroit.
Through-carriages are run on the following lines: —
(a.) 976 M. Nfw Yoek Cenxeal and Hudson Riveb R. R. to (440 M.)
Buffalo and Michigan Centbal R. R. thence to (976 M.) Chicago in 24-30 hrs.
(fare $20; sleeper $5; excess fare on Limited trains from $ 1 to $10).
(b.) 954 M. West Shoee Raileoad to (429 M.) Buffalo and Wabash
R. R. thence to (954 M.) Chicago in 27-29 hrs. (fare $ 18; sleeper $ 5;
reclining chair cars free). Between Suspension Bridge SbndWindsor (see below)
the line is operated jointly by the Grand Trunk and Wabash Railroads.
(a.) From New York to (440 M.) Buffalo, see R. 12 a; from Buffalo
to (976 M.) Chicago (Illinois Central Station), see R. 50 c. This line
affords a good view of Niagara Falls (see p. 358).
(b.) From New York to (429 M.) Buffalo, see R. 12b. From
Buffalo to (453 M.) Suspension Bridge, see R. 12 d. Beyond Sus-
pension Bridge it is parallel with R. 50c, passing (472 M.)Welland,
(500 M.) Canfield Junction, (529 M.) Simcoe, (551 M.) Tilsonburg;
(576 M.) St. Thomas, (603 M.) Glencoe, (637 M.) Chatham, and
(683 M.) Windsor (p. 358). — 684 M. Detroit, see p. 358. Beyond
Detroit the Wabash R. R. runs to the S.W. through a rich farming
country. 743 M. Adrian, see p. 357; 780 M. Montpelier. The line now
turns to the W. 804 M. Ashley - Hudson ; 820 M. Wolcottville; 876 M.
North Liberty; 900 M. Westville; 914 M. Crocker; 939 M. Engle-
wood (p. 232). — 954 M. Chicago (Dearborn Station), see p. 366.
230 Route 1\9. LIBERTY. From Nexc York
c. Vift. Buffalo and Port Huron.
981 M. Lkhiqu Vallky Railroad to (4(U M.) Sttspnmon Bridge and
Grand Trunk Railway theuce to (.081 M.) Chicago in 29 hrs. (faro $18;
sleeper $ 5).
From New York to (464 M.l c*?u.*|)C»isjon Bridge, see R. 12e; from
Suspension l^ritlge to (^981 M.) (Va'caj/o (Dearborn Station^, see R. 60 il.
d. Via. Buffalo and Cleveland.
(a.) 980 M. Nkw York Ckntkal Railkoad to (440 M.) fiw/"rt/o ami Lakk
SiiouK (ft MieuiOAN SotiTHKUN Railkoad tbonce to( 9S0M.) C/iicui/o in 18-30 hrs.
(fiire $20; sleeper $ f>). The best trains on this route resemble those of
the Penna. R. R.. (p. 22S)) and al>o charge exira lares (see R. 29 b).
(l>.) 952 M. West SiiOKK Iwvilroad to (429 y\.) Burf'alo and Nkw York,
CuiOAGo, * St. LoiU8 Railroad thence to (952 M.) Chicago in 28-29 hrs.
(tare $ 18: sleeper $5).
(c.) 933 M. Oklawark, LAeKAWANNA, lO Western Rjiilroad to (410 M.)
Bufalo and New York, Cuioaoo, & St. Loris R^ailroad thence to (933 M.i
Chiciujo in 28-30 hrs. (fare i$18-, sleeper $5).
(a.) From New York to (440 M.) Buffalo^ see U. l'2a; thence to
(980 M.) Chiriujo (La Salle St. Station), see K. 50a. This line runs
along the S. shore of Lake Erie.
(h.) From New York to (4'29 M.) Buffalo, see R. 12l); from
Hnllalo to (9fVi M.) lltiiuujo (La Salle St. Station), see R. 50b.
(c.) From New York to (410 M.) Buffalo, see R. 1*2 c; front
Buffalo to (933 M.) Chicago (La Salle St. Station), see R. 50b.
e. Vift. Oswego and Suspension Bridge.
978 M. New York, Ontario, * Western Railway to (326 M.) Oxwego
in 12'/-.>hrs. ; Nkw York Central «!0: Hudson Rjveu R.R. thence t(> (47ti W.)
iSufprtmion Bridge in 4'/4 hrs. ; Wabash R. It. thence to (978 M.) Chicago
in 14 hrs. (in all, 29 hrs. ; fare $ 18, sleeper $6, reclining chair car free). —
The trains start from the West Shore Station at Weehawken (.-^ee p. 10).
From Weehawkm (p. 73) to (53 M.) Cornwall, sec R. 4e. Our
line then diverges to the left (N.W.). 70 M. Caviphell Hall, the
junction of the Central New England R. R. (p. 88) and of the Wallkill
Valley Line (tor Lake Mohotik) to Kingstoti (p. 90). Beyond (80 M.)
Middletown (p. 142) the cotintry is hilly and picturesque. 95 M.
Summitrille (540 ft.), for ('2'2 m!) Port Jervis (p. 143), for (7 M.)
Ellenvillc [Mt. Meenagha Ho., 1500 ft. above the sea. *2 M. from the
station), a summer-resort among the Shatra7ygu7ik Mta. (p. 142). and
(35 M.) Kingston (p. 90). We now skirt the S.W. side of the Oatskills
(p. 97) and begin to ascend the Ddaware Mts. 103 M. Mountain
Dale (900 ft.; Park Ho., from $'2). — 120 M. Liberty (1580 ft. ;
Liberty J iouse, Lancarihire Inn, from $3; Wawonda, liuckley, Man-
sion Ho., Walnut Mountain Ho., Monitor, $2-3), a summer atid
winter health-n'sort, with the Avell-known Looinis Sanitarium, for
cases of incipient consumption. It is a good centre for excursions. —
At Young's Gap (1800 ft. 1 we reach the highest point of the line.
125M.7irfc.sTj7/r (1G80 ft.); 135 M. ii'o«coe(1285ft.), also the station
for Rockland; 142 M. Cook'.^ Falh (1185 ft.), on the Bea%^erkill.
to Chicago. OSWEGO. 29. Route. 231
From (150 M.) East Branch a brauch-liiie runs to (^37^2 ^^•) ^rk-
ville (p. 104) and from (160 iNI.) Cadosia (1000 ft.) another runs to
(54 M.) Scranton (p. 141). 167 M. Apex (1460 ft.). 180 M. Walton
(1220 ft.), for a branch to (17 M.) Delhi. Farther on the line crosses
the watershed between the Delaware and the Snsqnehanna. 190 M.
Franklin (1200 ft. \ amid the N.W. foot-hills of the Catskills;
197 M. South Vnadilla (1300 ft.), the station for(li/2M.l Ihiadilla
(p. 97). At (202 M.) Sidneij (1000 ft.), on the Susquehanna, we
intersect the Del. & Hudson line from Albany to Binghamton (see
p. 96). 205 M. New Berlin Junction, for Edmeston, Utica (p. 131),
and other points ; 245 M. Randallsville, junction of a branch-line to
(32 M.) rtica (p. 131). At (2(36 M.) Castle we intersect the West
Shore R.R. (comp. p. 139). Beyond (267^ oM.) Oneida (v- 132) we
skirt the N. shore of Lake Oneida. 276 M. Sylvan Beach (St. Charles,
from $21/2). At (298 M.) Central Square v>-e cross the R.W. & 0. R.R.
(see below).
325 M. Oswego (Hotel Deep Rock^ $ 2-4) is a busy flour-making
oity and port, with (1905)22,572 inhab., on Lake Ontario.
We now pass on to the Rome, Watertown, & Ogdensburg R. R.,
which skirts the S. shore of Lake Ontario. 363 M. WaUington;
393 M. Windsor Beach. From (394 M.) Charlotte a branch-line runs
to (7 M.) Rochester (p. 135). 415 M. Morton; 471 M. Lewiston. —
476 M. Suspension Bridge (p. 139). Hence to (978 M.) Chicago
(Dearborn Station), see R. 29 b.
f. Vifi. Salamanca and Marion.
998 M. Ekik Railroad in 28-33 hrs. (fare $ IS; sleeper $5). The solid
through-train leaves New York at 2.40 p.m.
From New York to (333 M.) Hornell (1160 ft.), see R. 12 d. Our
line here diverges to the left from the line to Bufi'alo (p. 144).
359 M. Wellsville (1525 ft.). At (384 M.) Cuba (1700 ft.) we pass the
culminating point of the route and begin to descend. From (396 M.)
Glean (1440 ft.) to Buffalo, see R. 19 b. 409 M. Carrollton.
414 M. Salamanca (1385 ft.; Keating, Dudley, $2), with (1905)
5455 inhab., is the junction of a line to (43 M.) Dunkirk (p. 353).
Central time here becomes the standard. — 447 M. Jamestown
(1320 ft.; Sherman Ho., Humphrey Ho., $2-4), a city of (1905)
26,160 inhab., near the S. outlet of Lake Chautauqua (see below),
and (453 M.) Lakewood {Kent, $ 4), at the S. end of the lake, are
frequented as summer-resorts.
*Lake Chautauqua (1290 ft. above the sea; "20 ft. above Lake Erie)
18 M. long and 2 M. wide, is only 8 M. from Lake Erie, but empties its
waters into the Gulf of Mexico through the Conewango, Allegheny, Ohio,
and Mississippi. It is surrounded by low hills. Steamers ply regularly
from Jamestown and Lakewood to Bemus Point (Pichard, $2), Chautauqua
(p. 232), Point Chautauqua (several hotels), and Mayville (p. 201).
Chautauqua {Hotel Athenaeum, 500 beds, $2V2-4; numerous small hotels
and boarding-houses), a pretty little place on the W. bank of the lake, is
famous as the summer meeting-place (July & Aug.) of Chautauqua In-
232 Route 29. CHAUTAUQUA.
stitution, a liuge system of popular education, including public lectures,
summer school classes, and home-reading circles, which has spread all over
the United States since its foundation by Bishop Vincent and Lewis Miller
in 1878. It has had about 25(i,OO0 members. The National Home Reading
Union of England has been founded on the same model. The public build-
ings of Chautauqua include assembly-halls, lecture-rooms, club-houses, a
museum, a gymnasium, and a model of Palestine, 300 ft. long. The Sum-
mer School has classes in language, literature, science, arts and crafts,
physical education, and music, taught by upwards of 50 instructors from
various American colleges and universities. The usual summer-recreations,
such as boating, bathing, fishing, golf, and tennis, may all be eninyed
here. A so-called ''Citizen Tax"* is levied on all frequenters of the Chau-
tauqua Summer Assembly (above twelve years of age): 40c. per day, $ i*/4
per week, S 6 per season. The tuition fees are $ 6 for one department, S 11
for two, S 12 for three. — The electric cars of the Chautauqua Traction Co.
run from Jamestown along the S.W. shore to (3 M.) Celoron Park (the Coney
Island uf Lake Chautauqua), Lakewood, Chautauqua, and Mayville (p. 201).
About 15 M. beyond Jamestown we enter Pennsylvania. Beyond
(474 M.) Corry (1430 ft.; p. 187) we descend the valley of French
Creek. — 502 M. Cambridge Springs (1300 ft. ; Hotel Rider, $ 21/2-5,
R. from $11/2'. Riverside, $2-3; Bartlett, $2-2V2; Kelly, $2), an
attractive bealtb-resort with chalybeate and other medicinal springs
and a golf-course. — 510 M. Saegertown (Saegertown Inn & Sani-
toruim, $ 2-3), on the Kenarge, with chalybeate and alkaline springs.
516 M. Meadville (1080 ft.; 10,290 inhab.), the junction for (36 M.)
Oil City (p. 201), is the seat of MeadviUe Theological School (Unit-
arian), founded by H. J. Huidekoper in 1844, and of Allegheny
College(Meth.Epi3. ; 400 students), founded in 1815. Near(559M.)
Sharon WQ enter Ohio. 572 M. Youngstoivn (Tod, $2^ o'^V 2)^ ^^^
Pittsburg (p. 197); 589M. Leavittsburg (890 ft.), the junction of a
line to (49 M.) Cleveland (p. 353); 610 M. Ravenna, an agricultural
and industrial town, with 4000 inhab.; 627 M. Afcron (1005ft.), with
42.728 inhab. anri mj^nnfactures of woollen, flour, and agricultural
implements. At (693 M.) Mar7^/?eW(1155ft. ; seep. 349) we intersect
the Pennsylvania and B. & 0. railroads. 729 M. Marion (960 ft.), for
(84 M.) Dayton (p. 404) and (143 M.) Cincinnati (p. 405); 826 M.
Decatur; 857 M. Huntington; 914 M. Monterey; 979 M. Hammond;
993 M. Englewood; 994 M. 47th Street (Chicago).
998 M. Chicago (Dearborn Station), see p. 366.
g. Yik Baltimore and Washington.
1012 M. Baltimore & Ohio Railkoad in 26 hrs. (fare $18; sleeper $5).
The Chicago Limited Train (no extra fare) leaves New York at 8 a.m. and
arrives in Chicago at 9.45 a.m. on the following day.
From New York to (90 M.) Philadelphia, see R. 16b; from Phila-
delphia to (186 M.) Baltimore, see R.25 ; from Baltimore to (226 M.)
Washington , see R. 27 ; from Washington via Pittsburg to (1012 M.)
Chicago (Grand Central Station), see R. 49.
Another throu-h-train from Xew York to Chicago runs from Wash-
ington viSi Bellaire (see p. 352) instead of via Pittsbnrg. The total distance
by this route is 1046 M., and the time 2bV4 hrs.
C >> ==i i ..i.T.Tmjr.^^
II. NEW ENGLAM).
Route Pagf
30. From New York to Boston 234
a. Via New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield . . . 234
From New Haven to Middletown 237. — From Hartford
to Fishkill Landing 239.
b. Via Providence and the Shore Line 242
Block Island 242. — From New London to Brattleboro.
Watch Hill. Narragansett Pier 243. — From Provi
dence to Worcester 245.
c. Via Hartford and Willimantic 246
d. By Steamhoat 246
From New London to Boston via Norwich 247. — New-
port 248. — From Fall River to Boston ; to New Bed-
ford 253.
31. Boston 253
Cambridge 270. — Charlestown 273. — Environs of
Boston 274, 275.
32. From Boston to Plymouth 275
a. Via Whitman 275
h. Via South Shore 275
33. From Boston to Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket . . 277
34. From Boston to Provincetown. Cape Cod 278
Ne^ Bedford 279.
35. From Boston to Portland 280
a. By the E. Division of the Boston &c Maine Railroad 280
Nahant. Marblehead 280. — Peabody. From Beverly to
Gloucester and Rockport ('North Shore'') 282. — Sali?
bury Beach and Plum Island 284. — From Portsmouth to
the Isles of Shoals ; to York Beach 285.
b. By the W. Division of the Boston & Maine Railroad 285
Casco Bay and Environs of Portland 288.
36. From Portland to Mount Desert 289
a. Via Bangor 289
From Bangor to St. John; to Fort Kent and Van Buren
290. — From. Bangor to Searsport. From Washington
Junction to Eastport or Calais 291.
b. Via Rockland 292
Popham Beach. Boothbay. Squirrel Island. Camden 292.
37. Mount Desert 293
38. From Portland to the Rangeley Lakes 297
a. Via Lewlston and Farmington 297
b. Via Rumford FaUs 298
39. From Portland to Moosehead Lake 300
a. Via Oakland 300
b. Via Bangor 300
40. From Boston to Eastport and St. John by Sea . . . . BOl
Lubec. Campobello. Grand Manan 302.
Baedbker^s United States. 4fh Edit. 15
234 NEW ENGLAND.
Route Page
41. From Portland to Montreal and Qnebec 303
a. Via the Grand Trnnk Railway 303
From Berlin to White field 303.
b. Via the Maine Central Railroad 304
Sebago Lake. Naples. Pleasant Mt. 804. — From Quebec
Junction to Quebec 305.
42. From Boston to Montreal 306
a. Via Rutland and Burlington 306
From Concord to Lexington 308. — Dublin 309. — From
Burlington to Essex Junction 311. — From Alburgh to
Ogdensburg 312.
b. Via Lowell and Concord 312
From Nashua to Keene. From Manchester to Henniker
313. — From Concord to Claremont Junction. Lake
Sunapee. Woodstock 314. — Stowe and Mt. Mansfield.
From St. Albans to Richford 315.
c. Via Concord, Plymouth, Wells River, and Newport 316
Lake Winnipesaukee 316. — From Plymouth to Lincoln.
Mt. Moosilauke, From Wells River to Groveton 317. —
From Wells River to Montpelier. Lake Memphremagog 318.
d. Via Portsmouth and North Conway ...... 319
43. The White Mountains 320
a. North Conway 321. — b. Jackson and the Glen House
323. — c. Gorham and Randolph 324. — d. Crawford House
and the Notch 325. — e. Bretton Woods, Fabyan House,
Twin Mt. House, and Zealand 326. — f. Bethlehem and
Maplewood 327. — g. The Franconia Mts. Profile House
328. — h. Jefferson 330. — i. Mt. Washington 331.
44. From Boston to Albany 334
a. By Boston & Albany Railroad 334
From Pittsfield to North Adams 334.
b. Via the Hoosac Tunnel 336
45. From New York to Pittsfield (Berkshire Hills) ... 336
Litchfield 336.
46. The Berkshire Hills 337
47. From New York to Montreal via Connecticut Valley . 343
Mt. Holyoke 344. — Hadley 345.
30. From New York to Boston.
a. Vi& New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield.
234 M. Railway {New York, New ffaven, and Hartford Railroad to Spring-
field; Boston a7id Alhami Railroad thence to Boston) in b^/T-^^t hrs. (fare
$4.65; sleeping-berth $ IV*-'-, seat in drawing-room car $ 1); four through-
trains daily, including one at night (11 p.m., arriving at 6.45 a.m.). Din-
ing-car on the afternoon-trains (D. $ 1) and buffet-cars on other day-trains.
The train starts from the Grand Central Station (p. 10), runs
through the long tunnels under Park Avenue (see p. 52), crosses
t\\Q Harlem River , and traverses the somewhat unkempt environs of
STAMFORD. 30. Itoule. 235
New York. We have a glimpse of Columbia University (j^. ijl) to
the left. To tho right, at (9 M.) Fordhdm, aro the largo biiildingg
of the Jesuit St. John's College and Poe's cottage (p. 74). A llttlo
farther on, also to the right, are tho Botanical Gardens (p. 71),
with their palm-house and miisoum. To the left lies WoiHildwn
Cemetery (with tho large mausoleum of Jay Gould), and beyond
(12 M.) Woodlawn otir line diverges to the right from the N. Y. 0.
K. It. and skirts Long Island Sound (p. '247; not at llrst visible). —
14 M. Mt. Vernon. — 16V'2 M. New linchelle, founded by Huguenot
refugec^s in 16rt(). Thomas Fain(» ( r7l-V7-lH09) had a farm here,
granted to him by NciW York State, and is commemorated by a mon-
ument. New Rochello is also connected witli New York by tho
'Harlem River Hrancii' of the N. Y., N. 11., .t H. R. R. — IHV2 M.
Ldrchmont, a pretty seaside-resort ami yachting station (comp. p. '23).
— 24 M. Rye, the station for ('2 1V1.) Rye lieach (Ryo Heach, R.
from$l), a summer-rcisort on the Hound. — Heyond (2r)'/.2 M.)
Port Chester we cross the liyrnni River and entc^r /Vei« England. —
'28 M. Greenwich {^Kent Ho.^ from $5; Silleck 7/o., at Belie Haven,
$2V2-4:; Edgewood Inn, 1^2 M. from the station, from $ T) ; Held
Ho., $8, at Indian Harbor, ^/^ M. to theS.E.), the llrst station in
Connecticut (pron. OonniUicut; the 'Nutmeg State'), is a town with
12,271 inhab., pleasantly situated on heights overlooking Long Is-
land Sound. It was settled in 1(540 and contains tlui villas of many
New Yorkers. Tho Putnam Cottage, the h(!ad quarters of Gen.
Putnam in 1778-79, contains a few relics.
33V2 M. Stamford (Rockland, $2-2V2 ; Shippan Point Ho., llnely
sltviated on Shippan Point, I3/4 M. to tho S., $3), with 15,997
inhab., is a town of tlie same age as Greenwich and is also a
favourite residence and summer- resort of New York merchants
(steamer to New York 35c.). — 41 1/2 M- South Norwalk (Mahackemo,
$2-21/2) ^8 tlie station for (IV2 ^ i tramway) Norwalk (Norwalk
Hotel, $2-21/2; Pf>P- 6125), another suinmer-resort, and the Junc-
tion of a branch-lino to Danbury (p. 336). — 51 M. Fairfield has a
good bathing-beach.
56 M. Bridgeport (AWanfic //0U8C, from $21/2-3; Windsor, from
$2, R. from $ 1), a flourishing city of (1900) 70,996 inhab., lies
on an inlet of the Sound, at the mouth of tho Pequonnock River,
It possesses important manufactures of sewing-machines (Whocder
& Wilson, Howes), small-arms, ammunition, carriagiis, and other
articles (total value in 1900, $ 38,000,000). The winter-quartcirs of
Barnum & Bailey's Circus (now Ringling Bros.) are at Bri<lgeport.
Golden Hill, above the town, with numerous villas, affords good
views; and Seaside Park contains a Soldiers' & Sailors' Monument
and statues of Ellas Howe and P. T. Barnum. Bridgtiport is the
junction of the Berkshire Division of the N. Y., N. H., & H. R. R.
(R. 46). Steamers daily to New York (50 c). — Farther on the
train crosses salt-marshes and reaches —
15*
236 Route 30. NEW HAVEN. From New York
73 M. New Haven. — Nbw Havbm Housb Huibl (P1. aj c, 2), $4j
Tontine (PI. b ; D, 2), E. from $ 1 ; Gaede (PI. c j D, 3, 4), near the station,
commercial, $ 2-3V2j Davenpoet (PI. d; D, 2), from $ 2, R. from $ 1. —
Railway Restaurant. — Cab 50 c. per drive, 2 pars. 35 c. each. — Post Offict
(PI. D, 2), Church St.
~ JVeio Haven, tlie largest city of Connecticut and seat of Yale
University, is a well-built city, situated at tlie head of a bay of
(4 M.) Long Island Sound and surrounded by Mils. It is known
as the 'City of Elms', from the fine trees which shade its streets,
and carries on a considerable trade and numerous manufactures
(value in 1900, $41,000,000). The town was founded in 1638. In
1800 it had 4049 inhab. , and in 1900 it had 108,027.
From the large Union Station [PI. D, 4), which adjoins the
Harbour, Meadow Street (electric tramway) leads to th« N. to
(V2 M.) the *PuBLic Green (PL C, D, 1, 2), on which are the City
Hall, three Churches, the Second National Bank (PL 3), and the Free
Public Library (PL 2). At the back of Center Church is a monument
to John Dixwell, the regicide. At the S.E. corner of the Green is
the Bennett Fountain (PL 1; 1907), designed by John F. Weir
after the Monument of Lysicrates at Athens.
In College St. are most of the substantial buildings of *Yale
Univebsitt (PL C, D, 1, 2), which is second in importance to Harvard
alone among the universities of America. Besides the Academic
Department, it has schools of Science, Theology, Medicine, Law,
Forestry, Music, and Fine Arts, and also a Graduate School.
Yale University (390 instructors and 3300 students) was founded at
Killingworth in 1700 and established at New Haven in 1717. It was named
in honour of Elihu Yale (1648-1721), a native of New Haven, who became
Governor of Madras and of the East India Co. He presented it with 400^.
Perhaps the most eminent of its Presidents were Timothy Dwight (1795-1817)
and Theodore D. Woolsey (1846-71), and the list of its alumni includes
Eli Whitney (p. 607), Sam. F. B. Morse (p. 274), Jonathan Edwards (p. 839),
Noah Webster, Theo.Winthrop (author of 'Cecil Dreeme'), Chancellor Kent,
John C. Calhoun (p. 604), Horace Bushnell, James D. Dana, Ben. Silliman,
N. P. WiUis, etc.
From the Public Green we enter the university 'campus' or
quadrangle by an imposing tower-gateway known as Phelps Hall,
where a guide may be secured. Among the buildings in the cam-
pus are the *Art School (adm. 25 c), containing a good collection
of Italian, American (historical works by Trumbull, West, etc.;
open free daily & on Sun. afternoon), and other paintings and
sculptures; Connecticut Hall, the oldest Yale building (1750);
Osbom Hall; Battell Chapel; Vanderbilt Hall; Alumni Hall; Dwight
Hall; and the College Library, containing 500,000 vols., iacluding
those left by Bp. Berkeley and MS. works of Jonathan Edwards.
The campus also contains statues of the Rev. Abraham Pierson, first
Rector of Yale (1645-1708), PresidentWoolsey (1801-89), and Prof.
Silliman (1779-1864). At the corner of Elm and High Sts. is the
*Peabody Museum of Natural History (PL C, 1 ; open as above), in
which the mineralogical collections are especially fine.
L
aSI s^^'''"
to Boston. NEW HAVEN. 30. Route. 237
The other chief buildings of the University include the Sheffield Scientific
School (PI. D, 1), consisting of half-a-dozen admirably equipped buildings
between Prospect St, and Hillhouse Ave. ; the Gymnasium (PI. C, 1), in
Elm St. ; the Divinity School (PI. D, 1), at the corner of Elm and College
Sts. •, the Observatory (Prospect St.; beyond PI. D, 1); the Chemical and
Physical Laboratories (Sloane & Kent; PI. C, 1); the Medical College (PI. C, 2;
York St.); the Late School (PI. D, l)j the Vanderbilt Dormitories (PI. D, 1);
Woodbridge Hall (administrative building); University Hall (dining hall);
Woolsey Hall (with large organ); and Memorial Hall^ these three at the
cor. of Grove and College Sts. (PI. D, 1). The buildings of the Graduates
Club (PI. D, 1), the University Club (PL C, 1), and the Historical Society
(PI. D, 1) may also be mentioned. University dramatic performances are
given in the Hyperion Theatre (PI. C, 2).
The *Old Bubting Gbotjnd (PL D, 1), in Groye St., at the head
of High St., contains the graves of Sam. Morse (1791-1872), Noah
Weftsier (1758-1843), President Timothy D wight (ilbl-iSiT), Theo.
Winthrop (1828-61), and Eli Whitney (1765-1825). — To the N.
from Grove St, runs Hillhouse Avenue (PI. D, 1), the most heantiful
street of New Haven. It ends at what was once Sachem's Wood.
Environs. East and West Rocks are two masses of trap-rock on the
plain near the city. The East Rock (360 ft.), 2 M, from the Green (tram-
way via State St.) has been made a public park and is surmounted by a war-
monument (restaurant; *View). The West Rock (400 ft.), 2V4 M. to the N,W.
of the Green (tramway through Elm St. and WhaUey Ave.), ascended with
more difficulty, is also a good point of view. Goffe and Whalley, two of the
regicides, lay concealed here in the Judge's Cave. At Edgevoood., near the foot
of the West Rock, was the home of Donald G. Mitchell ('Ik Marver ; d. 1908),
— Savin Rock {Sea-View Ho.., $ 2-2V2) is a bold promontory, commanding a
view of Long Island Sound (p. 247; tramway from the Green). — Other
favourite resorts (tramway) are Morris Cove and (8/4 hr.) Momauguin (sea-
bathing and shore-dinners). — A Steamer plies twice daily from New
Haven to New York in 5 hrs, ($ 1, return-fare $ 1.25, stateroom $ 1).
From New Haven to Middletown, 24 M., railway in 3/4-I hr, (fare
60 c), — This line runs to the E. of the main route described below.
24 M. Middletown {McDonough^ $ 2), the junction of the line from Say-
brook to Hartford, is a busy town of 95S9 inhab.. on the Connecticut River.
It is the seat of Wesleyan University^ founded in 1831 (320 students; *View
from the chapel-tower; good library, with 76,000 vols, and collections of
natural history), the Berkley Divinity School (Episcopal), and the State
Insane Asylum. — Middletown is also connected by railway with Hartford
(see below) and, Willimantic (p. 246; fare 75 c).
Beyond New Haven the train turns to the left and runs inland
(N.). To the left are the East and West Rocks (see above). The
line follows the Quinnipiac valley. — 92 M. Meriden (Winthrop,
$ 272-4), a town of 28,695 inhah., with important mannfactnres of
silverware (International Silver Co,), cutlery, tinware, and other
goods. To the N. W. of the city is *Hvbhard Park, a striking reser-
vation of natural scenery at the foot of the geologically interesting
Hanging Hill [West Peak, 1007ft.; view). At West Meriden is, a large
State Reform School for hoys (founded in 1854). — 99 M, Berlin,
another tinware-making place; 105 M. Newington (p. 239),
110 M, Hartford (*neuhlein, R, from $1725 *Allyn House,
$ 31/2-5, R. from $ 11/2; Hartford, $ 21/2-^, R- from $ 1; T?ie Oarde,
$ 21/2-5, R. from $ 1 ; New Dom, from $ 2V2, R- from $ 1 ; Rail.
Restaurant; cah 75 c for 1-2 pers.), the capital of Connecticut, Is
238 Route 30. HARTFORD. From New York
finely sitnated on the navigable Connecticut River, at its confluence
with the Park River, 50 M. from Long Island Sound. It contains
manufactories of steam-engines, small-arms (Colt's Factory), hicycles
and antomohiles (Pope Manufacturing Co.), etc., and is noted for
its powerful insurance companies (assets $ 300,000,000) and for
one of the largest savings banks in the United States (deposits at
beginning of 1908, $31,000,000). A. Dutch fort was established
here in 1633, and the town was founded three years later. Many of its
founders came from Hertford, England. Its population is (1900)
79,850. — The Union Depot is near the centre of the town. To the
S.W. of it, beyond the Park River, lies *Bushnell Park, containing
the handsome white marble *Capitol, a conspicuous object in most
views of the town. The fine sculptural embellishment of the N.
fagade was done under the supervision of Paul W. Bartlett and
partly by his own hand. The Senate Chamber contains a good por-
trait of Washington, by Stuart, and an elaborately carved chair,
made from the wood of the 'Charter Oak' (see below). In the Library
are the Charter of Connecticut (see below) and portraits of Con-
necticut Governors, many of them by Chas. Noel Flagg. In the E.
wing of the groundfloor is a statue of Nathan Hale (p. 38), and in
the W. wing are the tombstone of Gen. Putnam (p. 282) and a
statue of Governor Buckingham (1858-66), by Olin Warner. The
Statue of Gen. Putnam, in the grounds, is by J. Q. A. Ward. Fine
view from the Dome (250 ft.). The gateway to the park, erected
as a Soldiers^ Memorial, deserves attention. — Following Capitol
Avenue to the E. and then turning to the left, along Main Street,
we reach (right) the Wadswobth Athen^um, containing a gallery
and libraries with 150,000 vols., and the collections of the Historical
Society (9-4). Adjacent are the buildings of the Etna Life Insurance,
the Etna Fire Insurance, and the Travelers Insurance Co. A little
farther on is the Post Office, adjoined by the interesting Old State
House, erected by Chas. Bulflnch (p. 260). Opposite is the Con-
necticut Mutual Life Insurance Co. By continuing to follow Main St.
in the same direction, we reach (20 min.) the State Arsenal.
Near the State House are the High School, the Hartford Orphan
Asylum, and the Hartford Theological Institute. — About 1 M. to
the S. is Trinity College, an E.E. building by Burges of London.
— The Colt Firearms Factory is in the S.E. part of the city, and
near it is the handsome *Church of the Good Shepherd, erected in
memory of Col. Colt, inventor of the revolver, by his wife.
A tablet at the corner of Charter Oak Place marks the site of
the 'Charter Oak', where in 1687 a colonial gentleman hid the charter
of Connecticut (see above), to save it from Sir Edmund Andros
(p. 32). Charter Oak Park is famous for its trotting races. Elizabeth
Park has a fine show of flowers. — Among other large buildings are
the Retreat for the Insane, the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, the Old
Folks Home, the City Hospital, and *St. Joseph's R. C. Cathedral.
to Boston. SPRINGFIELD. 30. Route. 239
The last is in Farmington Avenue, which, with its continuation
Asylum Street, contains many fine private residences.
Among past and present residents of Hartford are Mr. S. L. Clemens
{'Mark Twain' ; b. 1835), Cl>.arlet Dudley Warner (1829-1900), Mn. Harriet
Beecher Stowe (1812-96; comp. pp. 289, 336), and Mrs. Sigourney (d. 1865).
— Pleasant Drives may be taken in tbe vicinity {Talcott Mt., Tumbledown
Brook, the Keney Park, one of the finest wild parks in New England, etc.). —
Steamers ply daily to New York ($ I3/4), Sag Harbor (p. 81), etc. — An Electric
Tramway connects Hartford with (17 M.) Rockville (20 c). — Another line
runs to (9 M.) Farmington (15 c), a qnaint old village with a conntry-clnb
and a famous school for girls, established by Miss Porter about 1845.
FbomHaetfobd to Fishkill Landing, lllM., N. F., N. H., <fe H. Rail-
road in 41/2 hrs. — 5 M. Nevoington (p. 237). — 9 M. New Britain (Eusswin,
from $ 2V2), the birthplace of Elihu Burritt (1810-79), the 'Learned Black-
smith', a busy town with 25,998 inhab., engaged in making locks, jewellery,
and hardware. A monument to Burritt, who knew 50 languages and was
active in mamy good causes, is to be erected here. — 14 M. Plainville. —
33 M. Waterbury (^Elton. from $ 3, R. from 3 IV2; Connecticut, $ 2V2-3), a
manufacturing towa with 45,859 inhab. and the junction of the Naugatuck
R. R., is well known for its watches, of which about 600,000 are turned out
here yearly by the New England Watch Co. — 57 M. Hawleyville; 63 M.
Danbury (p. 336) ; 73 M. Brewster (p. 74). The line now turns to the N. 98 M.
Hopewell Junction; 104 M. Fishkill. — 111 M. Fishkill Landing, see p. 87.
Beyond Hartford (Capitol seen to the right) we cross the Con-
necticut by a fine stone bridge of nine spans, 1192 ft. in length
(1908). A good deal of tobacco is grown in this part of the valley.
Between (127 M.) Thompsonville and (132 M.) Longmeadow we
enter Massachusetts (the 'Bay State').
136 M. Springfield (The Worthy, R. from $ 1 5 Massasoit House,
$ 3-5, R. from $ 1, rooms towards railway to be avoided; Cooley's,
$21/2-^, R. $ 1-3 ; Haynes Hotel, from $21/2; Railway Restaurant),
a thriving city on the E. bank of the Connecticut, dating from 1636,
carries on a great variety of industries, the most important of which
is the manufacture of small-arms. Pop. (1905) 73,540. The United
States Ahmouby, in a park to the E. of the station (reached via
State St.), employs about 1300 hands and can turn out 120,000
Springfield rifles annually (apply at office for a pass; no adm. on
Sun.). View from tower. The Arsenal contains 225,000 stand of
arms. During the Civil "War 800,000 guns were made here. The
*Art Museum (open free daily, 1-5 in winter, 2-6 in summer), a
fine Renaissance building, contains the George W. V. Smith Col-
lection of European and Oriental Art (ceramics, bronzes, rugs, carved
ivories, lacquer-work, lace, armour, etc.) and the Horace Smitli
Hall of Sculpture. The Science Museum (open as above) contains
a scientific library and collections of natural history. Among the
principal buildings are the *Church of the Unity, North Church
(these two by H. H. Richardson), Christ Church, the Memorial
Church (N. end of city). South Church, the Church of the Sacred
Heart, the Wesson Mansion, the Court House, the Railway Station
(these two designed by H. H. Richardson), the County Hall of
• Records, and the City Library (155,000 vols.). A visit may also be
240 Route 30. WORCESTER. From New York
paid to *Fore8t Park (S. ; ponds covered with lotus-plants), Merrick
Park (adjoining the Public Library and containing the *Puritan,
a statue by Saint-Gandens), and the two Cemeteries. Good views
are obtained from Crescent Hill Road (S.) and from the bridges.
The reputation of the Central High School and the other public schools
of Springfield attracts many educational experts. — The 'Springfield Re-
publican' is one of the lest newspapers in the country, and the famous
'Websters Dictionary' is published here.
At Springfield we join the Boston and Albany R. R. (p. 334) and
turn to the E. (r.). 151 M. Palmer (Rail. Restaurant; p. 243).
190 M. Worcester. — Bat State Hotei,, R. from $1; Stajtdish,
$ 21/2-5; New Park, $ 2V2-3; Waeben, $ 2V2-3, R. from $ 1 ; Lincoln, from
$ 2V2, R. from $ 1. — Stafe Mutual Restaurant, at the top of the State
Mutual Building, Main St. (view) ; Rail. Restaurant. — Cab 50 c, for each
person. — Tramways 5 c
Worcester the second city of Massachusetts and 'heart of the
Commonwealth', with (1905) 128,135 inhab., occupies a hill-girt
site near the Blackstone River. It was founded in 1673. Its manu-
factures are very varied, the staples being iron, copper, and steel
wire, looms, carpets, machinery, envelopes, elevators, organs, and
pianos (total annual value $ 55,000,000).
From the Union Depot, by Ware and Van Brunt, we proceed to
the W. through Front St. to (5 min.) the Common, which contains
a War Monument and a Memorial of Col. Timothy Bigelow.
On the W. side of the Common rises the City Hall, a building
of white marble, in front of which is a bronze statue of Senator
Hoar (1826-1904), by French. The City Hall faces Main Street,
which we follow towards the right, to Lincoln Square. Just short
of the square, to the left, stands the Court House, with a statue of
Gen. Devens (1820-91), by French, in front of it. Adjacent is the
*American Antiquarian Society (open 9-5, except Sat. afternoon).
This society, one of the leading learned bodies of America, was founded
in 1812 by Isaiah Thomas and possesses a valuable library of 115,000 vols,
(esp. rich on American subjects). The collection of newspapers (over 5000
vols.) extends from the Boston News Letter of 1T04 down to the present day.
In Lincoln Sq. stands the old Salisbury House, an interesting
specimen of a Colonial mansion. In Salisbury St., continuing Main
St. towards the N., we pass the Society of Antiquity and the Woman*s
Club (1.), bend to the left opposite the State Armoury, and reach
the * Worcester Art Museum, erected in 1898 and richly endowed
by Stephen Salisbury (2-6; adm. "25 c, free on Sat. & Sun.; closed
on Mon.). Among its permanent contents are a good collection of
casts, valuable paintings (examples of Herrera, Copley, Van Goyen,
Raeburn, Gilbert Stuart, Moreelse, Inness, etc.) and engravings,
and the Bancroft Japanese Collection. Loan Exhibitions are held. —
Beyond the Museum is the Polytechnic Institute. To the right lies
Institute Park.
The old Bancroft House, in which George Bancroft (1800-1891), the
historian, was born, stood in Salisbury St., 1 M. from the square, and its
site is marked by a tablet. About 1/4 M. to the left is Bancroft Hill (720 ft.).
to Boston. WELLESLEY. 30. Route. 241
laid out as a public park. Highland Street leads to the W. from Lincoln
Sq. to Elm Park and (1 M.) Newton Hill (670 ft.), whieli commands an
extensive "^View. — In Grove St., to the E. of Institute Park, are the
huge Wire Works of the American Steel d; Wire Co. (interesting processes). —
Belmont St. leads to the E., between Millstone Hill and Bell Fond, to (IV2 M.)
the State Insane Hospital (1500 patients; *View).
Following Main St. to the left (S.) from the Common, we pass
the Post Office (left) and several chnrches and reach (II/2 M. ; to
the right) the Clark Uniyeksity, opened in 1887 for research
work (85 students), and Clark College (115 students). — About
1/2 M. farther on is Wbbsteb Sqtjabb.
From this point Electric Tramways run to Southbridge, to (6 M.) Leicester
(Leicester Inn, from $ 21/2) , and to (12 M.) Spencer (Massasoit, $ 2), con-
necting with a line to Springfield (p. 239). — A pleasant walk of 2 M.
may be taken round Goes Fond, to the W. of Webster Square.
Among other buildings of interest are the Free Public Library
(166,000 vols.), Elm St.; the three High Schools; the Natural
History Society's Museum, Harvard St. (9-5) ; the State Normal
School; Worcester Academy, Providence St.; the Highland Military
Academy; and the College of the Holy Cross (R. C), commandingly
situated on Mt. St. James (690 ft.), to the S. of the town.
Among the pleasantest excursions from Worcester is that to *Lake
duinaigamond, a popular resort 2 M. to the B., reached by electric rail-
way. — Not far from the N, end of this lake lies Shreicshury, a pleasant
little town with (1905) 1866 inhab. and the Jubal Howe Memorial Library.
Beyond Worcester the train makes an abrupt turn to the right
(S.) and passes LaTce Quinsigamond (left; comp. above). — 213 M.
South Framingham {Kendall, Winthrop, $2-3; pop. 11,000), a
manufacturing place and junction of several railways, with a well-
managed Reformatory for Women.
The railway to (29 M.) Lowell (p. 312) passes (7 M.) Sudbury, near
which is an old Colonial tavern, the original of Longfellow's 'Wayside
Inn\ It contains some interesting rooms and furniture, but a charge of
25 c. for admission is made to each person not ordering a meal.
Cochituate Lake, to the left, near (217 M.) Natick (9609 inhab.
in 1905), is one of the sources of Boston's water-supply. [From
this point on, comp. the Map at p. 274.] To the right of (220 M.)
Wellesley (Wellesley Inn, $ 2-21/2) are the buildings of *WeUesley
College, one of the best-known colleges for women in the United
States, founded in 1875 and situated in a beautiful park (1200 stu-
dents). — 224 M. Auburndale (Woodland Park Hotel) ; 225 M, West
Newton; 227 M. Newtonville; 228 M. Newton, all included in the
wealthy suburban city of Newton (36,827 inhab. in 1905). 230 M.
Brighton, with a large cattle-market and slaughter-houses. To the
left is the Charles River. The train then skirts the N. end oi Brookline
(p. 274; Stat. Cottage Farm), affording a good view (left) of the
Charles River, Cambridge, Boston (with the gilded dome of the State
House), and Charlestown Heights (p. 273). In entering Boston we
pass over the 'Back Bay' (p. 268), with The Fens to the right. 233 M.
Huntington Avenue Station (p. 253).
234 M. Boston (South Union Station), see R. 31.
242 Route 30. NEW LONDON. From New York
b. Vi& Providence and the Shore Line.
232 M. N. Y.N. H. <fe H. Raileoad in 5-7 hrs. (fares, etc., as at p. 234).
The best trains by tMs route are the 'Bay State Limited' (10 a.m.), the
'Knickerbocker Limited'' (1 p.m.), and the 'Merchants Limited' (5 p.m. ;
inclusive fare on these $ 5.65). — Vestibuled trains with through-
carriages run on this route between Boston and Washington in 13-14 hrs.,
the train being carried between Harlem River and Jersey City (see p. 73)
by steamboat (D. on steamer $ 1).
From New York to (73 M.) New Haven, see p. 234. The 'Shore
Line Division' of the N. Y. N. H. & H. E. R. crosses the Quinnipiac
and continnes to follow the shore of Long Island Sound, of which
it affords fine views. Beyond (^77 M.) Fair Haven we pass through
cuttings and two tunnels. 82 M. Branford (Montowese, Branford
Point Ho., Double Beach Ho., from $21/2!, '"^th the handsome
Branford Library, and (85 M.) Stony Creek (Brainard Ho., $ 1V2-2)
are popular bathing resorts. — 89 M. Guilford (Guilford Point Ho.,
Halleck, $ 2) was the birthplace of the poet Fitz-Greene Halleck
(1790-1867). — At (105 M.) Sayhrook (Coulter Ho., Pease Ho.,
$ 2), near the mouth of the Connecticut River, we intersect the
Conn. Valley Division, which begins at Fenwick (Fenwick Hall,
$4), 2 M. to the S., and runs to Middletown, etc. (see p. 237).
Beyond Saybrook we cross the wide Connecticut. — 108 M. Lyme
(*01d Lyme Inn, $ 2-3), a charming little resort of artists, with old
Colonial houses.
124 M. New London (Crocker House, Mohican, $21/2-4; *27ie
Oriswold, across the river, from $ 5, open in summer only), a small
city on the right bank of the Thames, with 17,548 inhab. and a
good harbour, defended by Fort Trumbull (seen from the station)
and Fort Griswold (on the other side of the river). There is a Sol-
diers' ^' Sailors' Monument in front of the station ; and a Statue of
John Winthrop, Governor of Connecticut in 1557-76, was erected in
1905. Just above the town is a small U. S. Navy Yard. Whaling
and sealing are carried on, on a diminished scale. The Yale and
Harvard boat-race is decided here in June, and several other colleges
have boat-houses on the Thames. The Public Library is handsome.
The Obelisk (134 ft. high) , which stands out so prominently on the
Groton Heights, on the E. bank of the river (ferry 4c.), was erected to
commemorate the burning of the town by Arnold and the massacre of
Fort Griswold on Sept. 6th, 1781 (*View from the top; adm. 10 c). Ad-
joining The Gri-wold (see above) are the Shenecossett Oolf Links. — Steamers
also ply from New London to White Beach, Newport (p. 248), Block Island
(see below), Norwich (p. 247), Fisher's Island (see below), Shelter Island
(p. 80), Sag Harbor (p. 81), New York ($ IV2-2V4), etc.
Block Island (Ocean View. $ 3V2-5 ; Spring Ho., $ 31/2; Manistes, National,
$21/2-31/2-, New Adrian. $2V2-3; Hygeia, $2-3, etc.), an island 8 M. long and
2-4 M. broad, situated 10 M. from the coast of Rhode Island, is a much-
frequented summer-resort (mean summer temp. 73°). It is also reached
by steamer from New York direct and from Providence and Newport
(comp. p. 248). — Fisher's Island {Munnatawket Hotel, Mansion House, $4;
Mononotto Inn, $ 31/2) is a long narrow island, close to the shore, fre-
quented for bathing and fishing.
to Boston. AMHERST. 30. Route. 243
Fkom New London to Bhattleboeo, 121 M,, New London Northern
R.R. (a branch of the Central Vermont R.R.) in 5 hra. — 13 M. Norwich.
aee p. 247; SO 1/L.WilUmantic (p. 246)5 65 M. Palmer (p. 240). — 85 M. Amherst
\Amher$t Ho., from $ 2Vz), with (1905) 5313 inhab., is chiefly interesting
as the site of Amhekst College, one of the leading educational institutions
of New England (founded in 1821; 510 students). Among the chief build-
ings of the college are the Memorial Chapel, Walker Hall, the Library
(90,000 vols.), the Observatory, the Chemical and Physical Laboratories, Ap-
pleton Cabinet, and the Gymnasium. Its collections of Assyrian sculptures,
minerals, casts, meteorites, and prehistoric tracks of animals in stone are
of great importance. Amherst is also the seat of the Massachusetts Agri-
cultural College. Amherst was the home of the poetess Emily Dickinson
(1830-86). — 100 M. Miller's Falls (p. 335); 109 M. Northfield {Th^ Northfield,
$ 3), the home of the evangelist Dwight L. Moody (d. 1899), with per-
manent schools and anntial religious conferences; 111 M. South Vernon
(p. 345). — 121 M. Brattleboro, see p. 345,
"We now cross the Thames, by a huge swing-bridge (view), to
(127 M.) Groton (see p. 242). — From (138 M.) Stonington (Co-
lumbia, $2), a quiet town with 8540 inhab., steamers ply daily
to (4 M.) Watch, Hill.
Watch Hill {Watch Hill Ho., Ocean, $4; Plympton, Atlantic, Columbia,
$ 2V2-3V2) is a sea-bathing place at the S.W. extremity of Rhode Island
(comp. below), commanding fine views.
Beyond Stonington the train enters Rhode Island, the smallest
state in the Union ('Little Rhody'; 50 M. by 20 M.), but first in
the proportion of manufactures to population. "We cross the Paw~
catuck and reach (144 M.) Westerly (Dixon Ho., $21/2-3), whence
an electric tramway runs to Watch Hill (see above). Between (155 M.)
Carolina and Kingston the train passes through the famous Great
or Cedar Swamp (Narragansett Fort), where King Philip and his In-
dians were almost annihilated in Dec, 1675. — 161 M. Kingston
(Rail. Restaurant), the junction of a line to (9 M.) Narragansett Pier.
Narragansett Pier (Imperial, S 4-8 ; Gladstone, New Matthewson, Green's
Inn, $ 4-6 ; Atlantic, Atwood, Revere, $ 3-5 ; Massasoit, Metaioxet, $ 2V2-3V2 ;
Arlington, $ 2-3V2, and many others; also Lodging and Boarding Houses),
second only to Newport among the Rhode Island seaside-resorts, has a
splendid beach and good opportunities f r boating, fishing, and driving.
Good views are obtained from Narragansett Heights (200 ft.) and the top
of Hazard's Castle (165 ft.). Among the other attractions is a large Casino.
The rocks are fine both in form and colour. Point Judith (p. 248) lies
5 M. to the S., and at Hammond's Mills, 7 M. to the N., is the house in
which Gilbert Stuart (p. Ixxxi) was born in 1755 (tablet in St. Paurs
Church, Wickford, see below). Commodore Perry (1785 1819; p. 249) was
a native of Narragansett. Steamers ply daily to Newport.
An Electric Tramway runs from Narragansett Pier to Providence
(see below), passing through Saunderstown (Saunders Ho., $ 2), and East
Greenwich (Updike Ho., $ 2-3).
168 M. Wickford Junction, for (3 M.) Wickford, whence steam-
ers ply daily to Newport (comp. p. 248).
188 M. Providence. — Narbagansett Hotel, cor. Weybosset St.
and Dorrance St., $ 3-6; Crown, Weybosset St., R. from $ IV2; Dorrance,
"Westminster St., R. from $ 1 ; Newman, Aborn St., R. from $ 1. — Electric
Tramways run to all suburban points, to Bristol (p. 245), etc. — Steamers
to New York, Newport, Block Island, etc. — British Vice-Comul, Mr. George
A. Stockwell.
244 Route. 30. PROVIDENCE. From New York
Providence, the capital of Rhode Island and the second city in
New England, with (1906) 198,635 inhah., is pleasantly situated
on Providence River (the N. arm of Narragansett Bay), at the head
of navigation.
Providence was founded by Roger Williams in 1636, after Ms expul-
sion from Massachusetts. It carries on important manufactures of cotton
and woollen goods, steam-engines, silver-plate (Gorham Co.), macMnery
(Brown & Sharps Manufacturing Co.), jewellery, iron, etc. (total value, in
1905, $91,980,963 or 18,396,192 i.)-
The Union Railway Station (1897) is in Exchange Place, an
open square near the centre of the city. On the W. side of the
square stands the City Hall, with a medallion of Roger Williams on
the facade, and on the E. side is the new Federal Building (1908).
In the centre is a Soldiers' ^ Sailors'' Monument, and near the
station is a Statue of General Burnside (1824-81). Westminstbb,
Street, the chief business-thoroughfare, runs hence towards the
S.W., and from it an Arcade, 225 ft. long, leads to the left to Wey-
bosset St. — A little to the N. of the station stand the State Normal
School and the *State House (1903), the latter a huge Renaissance
structure of Georgia marble and white granite, surmounted by a
double dome of unusual design (*View). — Among the other
prominent buildings are the Roman Catholic Cathedral; the First
Church of Christ Scientist, corner of Prospect and Meeting Sts., with
large, gilded dome; the Church of the Blessed Sacrament (Academy
St.), designed by La Farge (1904), with a beautiful Byzantine
interior; the Butler Hospital; aiJid. the Rhode Island Hospital. The
handsome Public Library (1898) occupies the block bounded by
Washington, Greene, and Fountain Sts.
The most interesting part of the city, however, lies on the E.
side of the Providence River, reached by a bridge near the Union
Depot. Just beyond the bridge, at the corner of College St. and
Benefit St., is the County Court House, next to which is the
Athenaeum, containing a library of 70,000 vols, and some interest-
ing portraits (one by Sir Joshua Reynolds) and a small painting on
ivory by Malbone ('The Hours'). In Benefit St. are the Providence
County Court House and the Rhode Island School of Design, the
latter comprising the Metcalf Memorial Hall (1903) and Pendleton
Hall (1906; with a remarkable collection of Colonial furniture).
About 1/4 M. up College Hill is Brown University (716 stu-
dents), founded in 1764, in a campus shaded with fine old elms
and entered by tasteful memorial gates. Among its chief buildings
are University Hall (1770), Hope College (1822), Sayle's Memorial
Hall, and Rockefeller Hall, the seat of the Brown Social Union.
At the corner of Waterman St. and Prospect St. is the University
Library (160,000 vols.), soon to be transferred to the new John Hay
Memorial Library. The John Carter Brown Library, to the S. of
Wilson Hall, contains one of the best collections of Americana in the
country. On the campus is a reproduction of the Statue of Marcus
to Boston. BRISTOL. 30. Route. 245
Aurelius, at Rome. Near by, in Meeting St., are the Women^s
College (Pembroke), with 200 students, and a ^Fresh Air SchooV. —
Opposite the University buildings is that of the Rhode Island
Historical Society, -with interesting books, portraits, and relics. —
Prospect Hill Terrace, near the University, commands a fine *View
of Providence.
Among the interesting old buildings in Providence are the Old
State House (1762); the old Market Building (1773); the First
Baptist Church, originally founded by Roger "Williams and the oldest
Baptist Church in the country; the Ives House, at the corner of
Brown St. and Power St., near the University, with an interesting
portico; thQ Cushing House (1734); the Hopkins House (1750); the
John Brown House, Power St., cor. of Benefit St., a fine example
of its date (1786) ; and the Betsy Williams House (1775), Roger
Williams Park.
I At the S. end of the city is the Roger Williams Park, contain-
ing a statue of Roger Williams (1604-83). On the Seekonk River,
near the E. end of Power St., is the Slate or What Cheer Rock, the
first landing-place of Roger Williams.
Among the pleasant points in the environs of Providence are EunVt
Mill (3 M.) , Rhodee-on-Fawtuxet, Vanity Fair, Crescent Park, and Rocky Point
(all reached by tramway, the last two by steamer also). — Bristol (Bel-
vedere, $ 2V2-5), reached by rail or electric tramway (14 M. ; see p. 243),
with many quaint and pleasant old houses, carries on yacht-building and
the manufacture of rubber goods. The Herreshoflf Yards here produced
the 'Columbia', 'Reliance', and other famous defenders of the International
Yacht Cup. Pop. (1905) 7512. A ferry-boat runs from Bristol to Bristol
Ferry, connecting with the Newport & Providence Street Eailway (p. 248).
— Near Bristol is Mount Hope, seat of King Philip (p. 243). — The sail
down "Narragantett Bay to Newport (there and back 75 c.) is very attractive
(comp. p. 253). — Steamer to New York ($ 3-31/4), see p. 246.
Feom Pkovidence to Wokcestee, 44 M., railway in IV4-IV* br. —
This line ascends the pretty industrial valley of the Blackstone. At (7 M.)
Lontdale are the grave and monument of William Blaxton (see p. 258; to
the right). 16 M. Woontocket (pop. 32,19a in 1905). — 44 M. Worcester,
see p. 240.
From Providence to Boston we follow the N. Y. N. H. & H. R. R.
193 M. Pawtucket, a city with (1905) 43,381 inhab. and large thread
and other mills, was the place where cotton-manufacturing was
introduced into the United States by Samuel Slater in 1790. The
Slater Mill is still standing. — 201 M. Attleboro, in Massachusetts,
with manufactories of plate and jewellery ; 208 M. Mansfield. About
2 M. from (215 M.) Sharon (The Sharon, $ 21/2) lies Massapoag
Lake (Massapoag Hotel, $ 3-4). 218 Y2 M. Canton Junction. —
223 M. Readville (p. 246), with its well-known trotting-track (comp.
p. xciil). Readville is the nearest station for an ascent of Great Blue
Hill (650 ft.), the highest of the Milton HUls (p. 275 ; fine view),
now part of a State Reservation of 4230 acres. At the top is a well-
known observatory. — The train approaches Boston through (224 M.)
246 Route 30. WILLIMANTIC. From New York
Hyde Park and the suburbs o£ Jamaica Plain and Boxbury. 231 M.
Back Bay Station (p. 253).
232 M. Boston (South Union Station), see R. 31.
c. Vi& Hartford and Willimantic.
228 M. Nkw Yoek, New Haven, and Haktfokd R. E. in 6 hrs. (fares
as at p. 234).
From New York to (110 M.) Hartford, see R. 30a. Beyond Hart-
ford this line diverges to the right from that to Springfield (p. 239)
and crosses the Connecticut River. 119 M. Manchester; 122V2 M.
Vernon, the junction of a line to Melrose and Springfield (p. 239). —
142 M. Willimantic (Irwin, Hooker Ho., $ 2V2; ^ail. Restaurant),
a manufacturing borough on the riyer of the same name, with 8937
inhab., is the junction of the Central Vermont R. R. (see p. 243). —
167 M. Putnam, the junction of lines to Worcester (p. 240) and
Norwich (see p. 248). 176 M. East Thompson, the junction of a
line to Webster and Souihbridge. We now enter Massachusetts.
181 M. Blackstone Junction; 193 M. Woonsocket Junction; 201 M.
Franklin, with the *Ray Memorial Library, designed by H. H. Gal-
lison and adorned with frescoes by him and Tommaso Juglaris;
2O8V2 M. Walpole. Beyond (219 M.) Readville (p. 245) we cross
the Charles River. 2231/2 M. Dorchester, a suburban district of
Boston with the Pierce House (1635), said to be the oldest house but
one in the United States. The train crosses the South Bay, passes
the suburban stations of (225^2 ^0 Dudley Street (p. 256) and
(2271/4 M.) South Boston, and enters the S. Union Station at —
228 M. Boston (see R. 31).
d. By Steamboat.
i. Steamboat to Newport and Fall River in 10-12 hrs. (Pier 19, N. River,
foot of Warren St.) ; Railway thence to Boston in IVs hr. (through-fare
$ 3.65 ; stateroom, usually with two berths, $ 1-5).
2. Steamboat to Neto London ('Norwich Line') in 9-10 hrs, (Pier 40, N.
River) and Railway thence to Boston in 3-4 hrs. (fares as above).
3. Steamboat to Fi'ovidence in 11-12 hrs. (Pier 18, N. River 5 in summer
only) and Railway thence to Boston in IV4 hr. (fares as above).
The steamers on all these lines are well fitted up and contain good
restaurants, etc. ; those of the Fall River Line are especially large and
luxurious (comp. p. 11). All run at night, leaving New York about 5 or
6 p.m., and all proceed through Long Island Sound, so that one general
description suffices. Each line runs directly to its terminus, without inter-
mediate stoppages. Cabin berths are included in the fares on all night-
steamers, but staterooms are extra. Fares are reduced 25 per cent in
winter. Meals are served a la carte on all steamers. Bands play on the
Providence and Fall River boats. The trains in connection are timed to
reach Boston about 6-9 a.m. The hours in the reverse direction are similar.
The steamers are equipped with the wireless telegraph (50 c. per 10 words).
4. The Tukbine Steamees 'Yale' and 'Harvard' of the Metropolitan Line
run daily all the way between New York (Pier 45, N. River) and Boston
(India Wharf), leaving each port at 5 p.m. and taking 15 hrs. for the trip
(fare $ 3.60 ; stateroom from $ 1).
The steamers of all the lines star in the North River (pp. 31, 32)
to Boston. NORWICH. 30. Route. 247
and proceed round the Battery (p. 33), affording fine views of the
city and harhonr. To the right lie Ellis, Liberty, and Oovernora
Islands (pp. 2, 3). Passing the last, we bend to the N., enter the
East River (p. 31), and pass under Brooklyn Bridge (p. 40), which is
seen to great advantage from the steamer's deck. Beyond the bridge,
to the right, opens Wallah out Bay, with the 17. 8. Navy Yard (p. 76).
On both sides are wharves crowded with shipping. The tower-
foundations of the new Manhattan Bridge may be seen to the right
and left, and farther up we pass under the Williamsburg Bridge
(p. 40) , steer between BlackwelVs Island (p. 71 ; new bridge in
progress) and Long Island City (p. 78), and then thread Hell Gate
(p. 71), with Ward^s Island and Randall's Island (p. 71) to the left.
We now leave the East River and enter Long Island Sound,
which extends for a distance of 115 M. between Long Island (see
p. 79) on the right and the coasts of New York and Connecticut
on the left. Its width varies from 3 M. to 30 M. As we enter the
Sound, we pass Berrian's Island, the Brothers, and Riker's Island. To
the right is Flushing Bay, with the town of Flushing (p. 81). The
steamer threads a narrow channel, passes Throg's Neck (with Fort
Schuyler ; to the left), and enters a wider part of the Sound. Little
Neck Bay, to the right, is famous for its clams. Among the islands
which conceal the mainland-coast here are City Island, Hart's Island
(with the paupers' cemetery of New York), and Hunter s Island.
On Sand's Point, to the right, is a lighthouse (fixed white light).
Among the chief points on the mainland farther on are Green-
wich, Norwalk, Bridgeport (see p. 235), New Haven (p. 236), and
Saybrook (p. 242), at the mouth of the Connecticut River. The
lights passed include Captain's Island (fixed white) , Stratford
Shoal (flash white), Falkner's Island (revolving white), and Com-
field Point Lightship (flash white and fixed red), to the left ; and
Eaton's Neck (fixed white), Plwn Island (revolving white), and Little
Gull Island (fixed white), to the right. We are here about 7 hrs. out
from New York. The Nokwich Steamee now heads for shore, enters
the Thames, and stops at New London (p. 242), where passengers
disembark and proceed by train to Boston.
From New London to Boston, 108 M., railway in 4-5 hrs. The train
follows the bank of the Thames (view to the right). — 8 M. Mohegan, with
a few half-breeds who represent the 'last of the Mohicans' (eomp. below).
13 M. Norwich (Wauregan Ho., $ 2-3V2; Del-Eoff, $ 2), a manufacturing
city with 17,250 inhab., pleasantly situated between the Taniie and Shetucket,
wUch here unite to form the Thames. Among its chief buildings are
the Court House, the Free Academy, and St. Patrick''t Cathedral. The Slater
Memorial contains drawings and photographs of masterpieces of art, casts,
a library, etc. The old Indian Cemetei'y, in Sachem St., has been the
burial-ground of the Mohicans or Mohegans from time immemorial, and
contains an obelisk to their famous chief Uncas (d. 1683). On Sachem't
Plain, near Greenville (1V4-2 M. from Norwich), another monument marks
the spot where Uncas captured and executed Miantonomoh, Sachem of the
Narragansetts (1643).
Steamers run from Norwich to New York (twice weekly), Watch Hill
(p. 243), Block Island (p. 242), Fisher's Island (p. 242), and other points.
248 Route 30. NEWPORT. Fj^fom New York
At Norwich we diverge to the right from the Central Vermont R. B.,
which riina to Bratikboro, etc. (comp. p. 243). iiVz M. Greenville (p. 247).
At (29 M.) Plainfield we cross the Worcester division of the K. Y, N. H. &
H. R. R. About 4 M. to the W. of (3S M.) Danielson is Brooklyn, the home of
General Israel Putnam (see p. 282). At (47 M.) Putnam (p. 246) we join the
main line of the If.T.X. H. & H.R. R. Hence to (108 M.) Boston, see R. 30c.
The Fall Ritee and Pbotidbnce Steambes now quit Long
Island Sound, Montauk Point (p. 81] lying nearly due S. They pass
outside Fishers Island [p. 242). To the left, beyond Fisher's Is-
land, is Watch Hill (p. 243; fixed white light), while Block Island
(p. 242; fixed white light) lies off to the right as we begin to
hend towards the N. The revolving white light of Point Judith,
5 M. to the S. of Narragansett Pier, next shows ahead, to the
left; and in rounding this headland, if anywhere, we may ex-
perience a little rough weathei. Passing JSarragansett Pier (p. 243 ;
left), we keep to the right of the Beaver Tail Light (flash white),
on Conanicut Island (p. 252), steer between Ooat Island (with Fort
Walcott; left) and the mainland (Fort Adams; right), and enter
Newport harbour.
Newport. — Hotels. New Cliffs Hotel (PI. b \ D, 2), with view of the
sea (burned in the summer of 1908) ; Aqcidneck House (Pi. a 5 C, 1), Pelham
St., § 4. Few of the hotels of Newport compare favourably with those
of other large watering-places, as the fashionable visitors reside almost
entirely in the so-eaUed 'Cottages' or in Boakdisg Houses, such as the
Muencliinger King it Hill Top Cottage (fashionable; from $ 5 a day), the
Fais-7ieati, Robinson^s, the Margaret, Bateman House ($ 4), Bellevue, and La
Forge CoUage.
Restaurants. Bussell, in the Casino (p. 250); Berger, Bellevue Ave.
(orchestra); GuntTiei\ 8 Bath Eoad; Bellevue, see above.
Electric Tramways run from foot ot Franklin St. and Broadway to
Easton's Beach (5 c.), passing near Washington Sq.; also to Morton Park
and 'One Mile Corner', connecting with line to Stone Bridge and Fall Eiver.
Other lines run to the War College and Training Station. — Public Brakes
or '■Barges'' run from Washington Sq. (also from rail. stat. and wharves)
along Bellevue Ave. to Bailey's Beach (10 c); also from Easton's Beach
round the Ocean Drive (50 c. each). — Hack (bargaining advisable) about
$1 per hr.; round the Ocean Drive (1-4 pers.) 3 3-5; from the wharf or
station to the hotels 50 c, (1-2 pers.). Hotel Omnibus 50 c.
The Newport & Providence Street Railway (electric) runs to (10 M.)
Bristol Ferry (fare 20c.l, connecting with ferry to Bristol (p. 245; fare 10c.)
and forming the shortest route (2-2V4 brs.) from Newport to Providence
(p. 243; through-fare 45 c).
Bathing. The use of bathing-cabin and costume at First or Easton^s Beach
costs 25 c. Full costume obligatory. The popular hour is 11-12.
Boats may be hired at Kinsley's, Long, and Spring Wharves. Newport
is a favourite port for Yachts and Yacht Racing.
Steamboats to Block Island, Conanicut Island, Narragansett Pier, Pro-
vidence, Wickford, etc. start from the Commercial Wharf (PLC, 1,2).
The New York steamer ($ o) starts at the Long Wharf (PI. C, 1).
Railway Station (for Boston, etc.; PI. C, 1), West Marlborough St.,
below Washington Sq. Another route to Boston (and also to New York)
is by steamer to Wickford and thence by rail via Wickford Junction and
the Shore Line (comp. p. 243).
Casino (PI. D, 2), Bellevue Ave. (comp. p. 250). Concerts 11 a.m. to
1.30 p.m. (50 c), and on Sun. 8-10 p.m. (25 c). — Opera House (PI. C, 1),
in Touro St. — The Newport Horse Show is held in September.
Post Office (PI. C, 2), Thames St.
vr/.
,:5^^,
-qtreagisj^arisiea
- :sJbe^3 ^ ri fill M ;.^'^^^^^^,.<?,,-,J7?P^^, 3^v^ - 5
to Boston, NEWPORT. 30. Route. 249
Chief Attractions. Those who have but one day to spend at Newport
should go to the First Beach (p. 250), via Touro Park and the Old Mill
(p. 250); walk hence by the Clijf Walk (p. 250) to Bailey's Beach (p. 251) ; and
then take the Ocean Drive (p. 251). Other interesting points are Purgatory
(p. 250), the Hanging Rocks (p. 250), and Second Beach (p. 250).
Newport, the nndisputed 'Queen of American Seaside Resorts',
occupies a low plateau near the S.W. extremity of Bhodt Island
(see p. 252), rising from a line harbour which opens on the E. side
of Narragansett Bay. It contains (1905) 25,039 inhabitants. This
population is, however, very largely increased in summer (June-
Sept.), when visitors flock to the town from all parts of the United
States, taking up their abode for the most part in the luxurious
country-houses and private villas known here as 'cottages'. The
older part of the town adjoins the harbour, but the new and fashion-
able quarters lie higher up and farther back, extending across to
the ocean side of the narrow island.
The chief reason of Newport's popularity is said to be its balmy and
equable climate, but the natural beauty of its cliflfs and surroundings
would alone justify its reputation. The fashionable people of the whole
N.E. part of the United States spend the early months of summer here
as regularly as they pass the later amid the Berkshire Hills (p. 337).
Newport was settled in 1639 by William Coddington and other dissent-
ers from the Puritan church of MassJ^chusetts , and a century later had
about 5000 inhabitants. In 1770 Newport was surpassed by Boston only
in the extent of its trade, which was considerably greater than that of
New York. About this time a visitor to New York wrote back to the 'New-
port Mercury' that at its present rate of progress New York would soon
be as large as Newport. It sufl'ered greatly during the Revolution, how-
ever, and never recovered its commercial importance, so that in 1870 its
population was no larger than in 1770. During part of the Revolutionary
struggle Newport was occupied by the French allies of the Americans,
who were so favourably impressed with Rhude Island, that they sought to
have it ceded to France. Wm. Ellery Channing (see p. 260) was a native of New-
port, and Bishop Berkeley (1681-1753) lived here from 1729 to 1731 (see p. 250).
J The central point of Old Newport is Washington Sqijabe
(PI. C, 1) or the Paeade, within a few minutes' walk of the railway
station and steamboat-wharf. Here are the State House (1738-43 ;
with portrait of Washington, by Stuart), the old City Hall (new
one in Broadway, cor. of Bull St., PI. C, 1), a Statue of Commodore
O. H. Perry, the hero of Lake Erie (pp. 187, 243), the Perry Mansion
(PI. C, 1), and the Roman Catholic Church (Ionic portico).
Following Touro St. to the S.E., we pass (left) the Synagogue
(1762; the oldest in the United States), the Newport Historical
Society (10-4; interesting relics), and (5 min.) the picturesque
Hebrew Cemetery. Touro St. ends here and Bellevue Avenue
(PI. C, D, 1, 2), the fashionable promenade, begins, running to the
S. (right). To the right is the Newport Reading Room. A little
farther on, to the left, is the Redwood Library (PI. D, 1; 1748),
a Doric building, containing 50,000 vols, and some sculptures and
paintings (open 12-2). The fine Fern-leaf Beech, at the corner
of Bellevue Ave. and Redwood St., should be noticed. Nearly
opposite this is Touro Park (PI. C, D, 1), containing the *Bound
\ ^^^^Babdekee's United States. 4th Edit. 16
250 BouU 30. NEWPORT. From New York
Tower oi Old Stone Mill, the origin of wMcli is still somewhat of a
mystery. Some authorities helieve that it was hnilt by Gov. Arnold
in the 17th cent, as a wind- mill, whUe others regard it as very
possibly the central part of a church built by the Norsemen in the
11th century. Longfellow mentions it in his 'Skeleton in Armor'.
The park also contains statues of M. C. Perry (1794-1808) and
W. E. Charming (p. 249 ; erected in 1893) ; and opposite its S. side
stands the Channing Memorial Church (PI. C, 1, 2).
A few hundred paces farther on, Bath Road (electric tramway)
leads to the left from Bellevue Ave. to the (10 min.) First Beach.
Bellevue Avenue soon passes the Casino (PI. D, 2; left), a long, low,
many-gabled building, containing a club (introduction necessary), a theatre,
etc. (concerts, see p. 248). The Lawn Tennis Championship of America is
decided in the courts attached to the Casino (Aug.). Farther on the avenue
passes between a series of magnificent villas, among which are conspicuous
the Berwind House (PI. C, D, 2; to the right, at the corner of Dixon St.)
and the white marble house and wall, built by Mr. W. K. Vanderbili but
now owned by Mrs. 0. H. F. Belmont (PI. 4; D, 3; to the left, about 3/4 M.
farther on). The avenue then turns sharply to the right and ends at
Bailey's Beach (p. 251).
First or Easton's Beach (PI. D, 1), a strip of smooth hard sand,
3/4 M. long, affords some of the best and safest surf-bathing on
the Atlantic coast. Besides the bathing-houses (see p. 248) there
is a handsome pavilion , containing a restaurant and hot and cold
baths. Behind the beach lies Eastons Pond^ and at its farther (E.)
end is a group of cottages. Eastons Point, forming the E. barrier
of the beach, affords an excellent view of Newport.
From the E. end of the beach a road leads round Easton's Point to
(3/4-I M.) '-Purgatory, a curious fissure in the conglomerate rocks, 150 ft. long-
T-14 ft. wide, and 50 ft. deep, resembling the so-called Chasms, near Manor,
bier in S. Wales (see Baedeker""* Great Britain). Numerous legends attach to
it, one relating how a youth leaped it at the challenge of his lady-love and
then renounced her in the spirit of the hero of 'The Glove' by Schiller:
'Not love it is, but vanity, sets love a task like that'. Just beyond Pur-
gatory is Sachuest or Second Beach, where the surf is much heavier than
at Easton's Beach. To the N. of Sachuest Beach is Paradise Valley, with
the picturesque Paradise Rocks, ending in the Hanging Rocks, below which
Bishop (then Dean) Berkeley (p. 249) was wont to sit. Here, it is said, he
composed his 'Alciphron, or the Minute Philosopher', and also the lyric
containing the much-quoted verse: —
'Westward the course of empire takes its way,
'The first four acts already past,
'A fifth shall end the drama with the day,
'Time's noblest offspring is the last.'
Bishop Berkeley's residence (Whitehall), in Berkeley Ave., to the N.
of Paradise Road, is not far off (small fee). Those who' have come thus
far by carriage (the road passes near the beaches) may continue along
Indian Avenue to Boothden, once the residence of Edwin Booth (p. 2i).
At the W. end of Easton's Beach begins the famous *ClifF Walk
(PI. D, 2), which runs along the winding brow of the cliffs for about
o M., with the ocean on one side and the smooth lawns of the hand-
somest 'cottages' in the town on the other (fine views). No fences
intervene between the walk and the cottage-grounds. Passing the
CharUer House (P1.D,2) and two groups of smaller cottages, clustered
to Boston. NEWPORT, 30. Route. 251
ronnd a central hotel (New Cliffs Hotel, comp. p. 248), we soon
reach the finely kept enclosure of the Oammell Family (PI. D, 2),
containing several villas. At the end of it are the ^ Forty Steps^
(PI. D, 2), descending to the rocks, with an ontlook platform com-
manding a fine *Yiew (to the E., Easton's Point, Sachuest Point,
and West Island in the distance; below, to the right, Ellison's
Rocks'). Crossing Narrayansett Avenue (PI. 0, D, 2), which leads
from this point to Bellevue Ave. (p. 249), we enter the Robert Goelet
Place, and beyond Webster Street (PI. C, D, 2) we pass the Ogden
Ooelet House, a reproduction of a conntry-honse in England. A little
farther on we pass the * Twombly-Lorillard- Wolfe Cottage (PI. 16;
D, 3), a long many-gabled red bnilding. The next honse is that of
the late Mr. Cornelius Vanderbilt (PI. 17), an imposing structure
with a rnstic summer-house on Ochre Point (PI. D, 3), where we
tnrn to the right (W.). Farther on we cross Marine Avenue and
enter the grounds of Mr. Perry Belmont (PI. 5), adjoining which
lay the enclosed rose-garden of George Bancroft (1800-1891), the
historian. Next in order, to the S., is the villa of Mrs. Herman
Oelrichs (PI. 13). Beyond the red villa of Mrs. William Astor (PL 2)
we pass the white marble palace built by Mr. William K. Vanderbilt
(see p. 250), a magnificent dwelling, but hardly in keeping with
the genius loci. Passing Sheep Point (PI. D, 3, 4), the path descends
to a lower level. Opposite the picturesque stone house of Mr. W.
B. Leeds (PI. 8; D, 4) we cross a small rocky bridge. To the left is
Rough Point (PI. D, 4). We then cross the Ledge Road (PL C, D, 4),
leading from Bellevue Ave. to the Land's End (with Ex-Governor
Lippit's House, PI. 9), off which lies Coggeshall's Ledge (PL C, D, 4).
Crossing the hill, we finally reach Bailey's Beach (PL C, 4), a
small bay with a long row of bathing-houses, which has become the
fashionable bathing-resort of the Newport cottagers.
From Bailey's Beach we either return to town by one of the 'barges'
running along Bellevue Ave. (p. 249), or we may begin the beautiful
^Ocean or Ten Mile Drive, which skirts the coast of the peninsula
to the S. of the town for about 10 M., commanding magnificent views
(2-272 hrs.). Ocean Avenue, forming the first part of the drive,
begins at Bellevue Ave. and runs to the W. past Bailey's Beach.
To the left , at the W. arm of the beach , is the Spouting Rock
(PL C, 4), where the water, alter a storm, rushes through an open-
ing in the rock and is forced to a height of 40-50 ft. At Lily Pond
(PI. C, 3) we turn to the left (S.). Looking over the bay to the left,
we see Gooseberry Island (PL C, 4), with the house of the Newport
Fishing Club. We now cross a bridge over a small inlet and see
to the left, on Price's Neck, the United States Life-Saving Station
(PI. B, 4). At Brentons Point (PL A, 4; *View), directly in front
of the house of Mr. Theodore M. Davis (PL 6), the road turns to
the right and runs towards the N., soon passing Castle Hill (PI A,
4, 3), the residence of Prof. Alex. Agassiz, and several other villas.
16*
252 Route 30. FALL RIVER.
We tlien turn again to the right, with the ocean behind us, and soon
turn to the left into Harrison Avenue (PI. A, B, 3) or the Fort Road.
To the right lie the Oolf Links, Club House, and Polo Grounds. On
the point to the left, projecting into Narragansett Bay, stands Fort
Adams (PI. B, 2 ; see helow), and ahead of ns lies Ne^^^ort Harbour.
To the left are the house of Mr. E. D. Morgan (PI. 12 5 B, 3) and
some other fine 'places'. On a rocky islet to the left is the Lime Rock
Lighthouse (PL C, 2), in charge of Ida Lewis, the 'Grace Darling'
of America, who celebrated the 50th anniversary of her lighthouse
service in 1907. Turning again towards the bay, we follow the road
skirting the harbour, and regain the Parade (p. 249) through Thames
Street (PL C, 1, 2), the chief business-street of the old town.
Among other points of interest in or near Newport may be mentioned
Trinity Church (PI. C,l), in Church St., dating from 1725 and often preach-
ed in by Bp. Berkeley (with old square pews, etc.); the First Baptitt
Church, in Spring St. (1644); Vernon House (PI. C, i; tablet), Clarke St.,
near Mary St., headquarters of Count Eochambeau, the French command-
ant in 1780; the Sayer or Bannister House (tablet), the headquarters of
Gen. Prescott, the commander of the British army of occupation in 1777;
the U. S. Naval Training Station and War College, on Coasters Harbor
Island (3 p.m. till sunset; beyond PI, C, 1); the Naval Hospital; Fort
Adams (PI. B, 2; fine view), near Brenton's Cove, 3 M. from the town by
road, but easily reached by boat across the harbour, with room for a
garrison of SOCiO men (guard-mount and dress -parade at 9 a.m. daily,
except Sun,; battalion drill, "Wed. 4-5; band-practice, Hon., Wed., &
Frid. at 3 p.m.); Fort Walcott (PI. B, C, 1), with the U. S. Torpedo Station,
on Goat Island (no adm.) ; Morton Park (PI, C, 3), at the S. end of Thames
St. ; and Miantonomy or Miantonomoh Hill (view), on the N. side of the city
(IV2M.; at the end of Malbone Road; beyond PI. C, D, 1). — The steamer
to Wickford (see p. 243; 12 M., in 1 hr.) passes between (1.) Conanicut
Island (PI. A, 2) and (r.) the islands of Prudence, Hope, and Despair.
Jamestown (Gardner Ho., Thorndike, Bay View Ho., $3), on Conanicut,
is a growing summer-resort; the headland nearest Newport, known as the
Dumplings (PI. A, 2), is crowned with a fort. At the S. end of the island
BisukAs Beaver-Tail Lighthouse {i%l)\ at the N. end is Conanicut Park. From
Wickford to Boston (23/4-3 hrs.) and to New York (5-8 hrs.), see p. 243.
Fall River (see below) is 18 M. from Newport by rail.
Rhode Island, the Indian Aquidneck ('island in the mouth of the bay''),
which was bought from the Indians in 1639, is about 15 M. long and
3-4 M, wide, with a population of about 26,000. Its present name was
long supposed to have been given to it from a fancied resemblance to
the Isle of Rhodes, but has been more recently explained as derived from
its position in the 'roads' of Narragansett and thus as a simple translation
of Aquidneck (see above; comp, 'English Historical Review', Oct,, 1903),
It has been extended to the whole state (the full official title, however,
being State of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations), far the larger portion
of which is on the mainland. The island is fertile and well farmed, and
miuch of its surface is picturesque. It is connected with the mainland
by a railway bridge and an ordinary road-bridge.
Leaving Newport, the Fall Riteb Steamer steers between
Prudence Island (see above) and Rhode Island, and enters Mt. Hope
Bay, opening ofltheN.E. corner of Narragansett Bay. On the pen-
insula to the left lies Bristol (p. 245). In 1 hr. we reach (r.) Fall
Kiver {Mellen Eo.,Ii. from $1} Wilbur Ho., Evaris Ho., $ 2). The
river to which it owes its name rises a little to the E. and falls
about 140 ft. in 1/2 M., affording admirable water-power to the
BOSTON. 37. RouU. 253
mills which make the town one of the chief cotton-mannfactnring
places in New England. Total value of indnstrial products in 1900,
$43,071,530 (foni-flfths cotton goods). Pop. (19051 105,762. The
JBradford Durfee Textile School was opened in 1904. Passengers
for Boston here disemhark and finish their journey "by railway.
Fbom Fall Eivbr to Boston, 51 M., railway in H/s-lV* l^r. — The train
skirts the E. side of Mt. Hope Bay and then crosses it to (6 M.) Somerset.
13 M. Taunton (City Hotel, $ 2-3), an industrial town with (1905) 30,967 in-
hab., is the junction of several local lines. 32 M. Stoughton Junction; 40 M.
South Braintree, junction of a line to Plymouth (see p. 2(6). At Brookdale
Farm, near (41 M.) Braintree, is the establishment of the iVew England
Kennel Club, with many fine dogs. — 43 M. duincy (eomp. Map, p. 274;
Hancock Hotel, $ 2-21/2), a thriving suburban city (28,076 inhab. in 1905),
famous as the home of the Adams and Quincy families (see 'Where Amer-
ican , Independence Began', by Rev. Dan. Wilson, 1903). The old Quincy
House (the home of 'Dorothy Q.'), an interesting example of Colonial ar-
chitecture, dating in part from 1636, has been fitted up as a museum of
Colonial and Revolutionary relics (open daily, 11-4; adm. 25 c., free on Sat.).
In the old Hancock Cemetery is a memorial to Col. John Quincy (1689-1767),
after whom the place was named. The first railroad in the United States
was constructed in 1826 to carry granite from the large quarries of Quincy
to (4 M.) the nearest tide-water. — Beyond (451/2 M.) Atlantic we cross the
Neponset River and various arms of Boston Harbour, traverse Dorchester
and South Boston, cross the Fort Point Channel, and enter the S. Union
Station at (51 M.) Boston (see below). — Trains also run from Fall River
to (54 M.) Boston via (20 M.) Middleboro and (27 M.) Bridgewater (p. 278),
connecting with the above-mentioned line at South Braintree. — The
express trains running in connection with the steamers diverge from the
above line at Taunton and run to Boston via Mansfield (p. 245).
From Fall Rivee to New Bedford (p. 279), 14 M., railway in 35 min.
The Providence Steamer, on entering Narragansett Bay, steers
to the left of Beaver Tail Light and Conanicut Island (p. 252), rounds
Warwick Neck, and proceeds through the heautiful Narragansett
Bay to Providence (p. 243). From Providence to Boston hy railway
(44 M., in 11/4 ^■), see p. 245.
31. Boston. +
Railway Stations. 1. South Union Station (PI. I, F 4, 5; PI. II, D 3, 4;
restaurant), bounded by Atlantic Ave., Summer St., Beach St., and the
harbour, one of the largest railway-stations in the world (810 ft. long and
7(X) ft. wide; area IIV2 acres; greatest single span of roof 228 ft.), completed
in 1898 at a cost of $ 14,000,000. It contains 28 tracks (used by the New York,
New Haven, & Hartford, and the Boston & Albany railways; 400 trains
dispatched daily). — 2. Mrth Union Station (PI. I, E F, 3; PI. n,B 2),
Causeway St., another huge building with a frontage of 370 ft., used by
the Boston & Maine railway. — 3. Back Bay Station (PI. I, E 5; PI. II,
B C, 5). cor. of Dartmouth and Buckingham Sts., a secondary station for
trains of the N. Y. N. H. <fe H, R. R. from the South Station, — 4. Trinity
Place Station (PI. B, 5), cor. of Trinity -Place and Dartmouth St., and (5)
Huntington Avenue Station (PI. B, 5, 6), secondary stations of the B. <fe A. R. R.,
for outgoing and incoming trains respectively. — 6. Boston, Revere Beach,
& Lynn (PI. D, 3), Atlantic Ave. — The Armstrong Transfer Co. has its
baggage-agents and carriages at each station.
t In the references to the Plans in the text, PI. I refers to the ad-
joining general plan, PI. II, or where neither I nor II is specified, to the
plan of the centre of the city (p. 258).
254 Route 31. BOSTON. Practical
Hotels. *T0DRAraE (PI. t; C, 4), at the noisy corner of Tiemont and
Boylston Sts., a large and sumptuously equipped house, with internal de-
corations in the style of the Chateau of Blois, a handsome library with
4000 volumes, and a view over the Common 5 E. from $ 3, meals a la carte. —
*SoMEKSET (PI. y, A, 6), Commonwealth Ave., with view over the Fens,
large rooms for balls and concerts, R. from $ 2; Vendome (PI. a; B, 5), cor.
of Commonwealth Ave. and Dartmouth St., from $ 5; Bbunbwick (PI. b;
B, 5), cor. of Boylston and Clarendon Sts., from $ 5, R. from $ 2; *"Victobia
(PI. c; B, 5), at the cor. of Dartmouth and Newbury Sts., R. from $1;
Lenox (PI. w; B, 5), Boylston St., near the Public Library, R. from $ I1/25
CoPLET Squaee Hotel (PI. k; B, 5), Huntington Ave., from $31/2, R- from
5 11/2, these six in the pleasantest part of the city. — *Pabkeb House
(PL d; 0, 3), School St., R. from $ 1; 'Young's (PL e; C, 3), Court St., near
the head of State St., R. from $ IV2; Bkewsteb (PL f; C,4), 15 Boylston St.,
R. with bath from $ 2; Bellevue (PL m; C, 3), 23 Beacon St., a family
hotel, R. from $ I1/2; Essex (PI. s; D, 4), opposite the South Union
Station, R. from $ I1/2; Thoendike (PL i; C, 4), Boylston St., opposite the
Public Garden, R. from $ IV2; United States (PI. h; D, 4), near the South
Union Station, commercial, from $ 2V2, R. from $ 1; Revere House (PL 1;
C,3), BowdoinSq., R. frnm$l; Amebican House (PL n; C,3), 54 Hanover St.,
R. from $1; QuiNCT House (PL 05 C, 3), Brattle Sq., $3-5, R. from $15
Langham (PL p; C, 7), 1697 Washington St., at the S. End, $21/2, R- from
$1; Commonwealth (PL x; C, 3), 86 Bowdoin St., near the State House;
Clabk's, 577 Washington St.; Crawford House, Scollay Sq. (PL C, 3),
these three commercial houses, R. from $ 1 ; Maveeick, 24 Maverick Sq.
(PI. I^ G, 3), E. Boston, R. $ 1; Fbanklin Square House (PL v; C, 6), for
women only, from 5 3V2, R. from $ 1. The Back Bay District contains
several other first-class hotels (Westminster, etc.), consisting mainly of
suites of rooms let to permanent tenants but also accepting transient
guests. — Boarding Houses are numerous and comfortable, especially on
Beacon Hill (Pinckney St., Mt. Vernon St., etc.) and at the S. End; rates
from $ 7 a week. Furnished Apartments are also easily obtained, from
$4 a week. Good boarding and lodging houses may be heard of at the
Women's Educational & Industrial Union, 2fi4 Boylston St., the Y. W. C. A.,
40 Berkeley St., and the Y. M. C. A. (p. 263).
Restaurants. At the ^Touraine (orchestra from 6 to 8 and 10 to 12 p.m.),
^Somerset, * Parker House, ^Young's, the Thorndike, the Victoria, the Bellevue^
the United States, and most of the other hotels mentioned above; Winter
Place Hotel, Winter Place, off Winter St. ; Ratskeller, at the American House
(see above), handsomely fitted up, D. $ iV4 ; Marliave, 11 Bosworth St., D.
with wine 5 1 -, Vercelli, 10 Hayward Place; Lomhardy Inn, Boylston Place;
Hotel Napoli, 84 Friend St. ; Cafi Angela, 340 Washington St., D. $ 1; these
four Italian; Frost & Dearlom, 8 Pearl St.; The, Moulton, 24 Summer St.;
*Oerman Cafi, in the basement of the Hotel Touraine, much frequented
after the theatre; Marston's, 25 Brattle St.; Crosby, 19 School St.; Cook,
88 Boylston St.. D. served tor two $ IVz- S. for two S 1-1 V2; Zum BUrgerbrdu,
HaywHrd Place; Jacob Wirth, Eliot St. ; Charles Wirth, Es<'ex St. (German beer
at these); Hayward, Hayward PI., D. $ i; Lafaye'te, Hayward PL. French,
L. 35 c.; Cafeteria C Laboratory Kitchen''), 69 Bedford St. and 50 Temple
PL (luncheon, 11-3); restaurants at the railway-stations; ^Thompsons Spa
(luncheon counter), 219 Washington St. ; ''Restaurants of the Women's
Educational Union, at 264 Boylston St. and 41 Charles St. (New England
Kitchen): Oak Grove Creamery, cor. of Boylston and Berkeley Sts.; restaur-
ants at R. H. White's nnd other large dry-goods stores, greatly patronized
by ladies; Vegetarian Restaurant. 555 Boviston St.; Bova (ItaL), 96 Arch St.
(PL C, 3) ; Tea Rooms, 160 B Tremont St. and 282 & 429 Boylston St. — -Huyler's,
146 Tremont St.. 414 Boylston St., and 139 Summer St., for ices, etc.
Steamers ply from Boston to Livei'pool (Cunard and Ley land lines from
E. Boston, PI. I, G 3; PI. II, E 1; White Star line from Charlestown,
PL I, F 2, 3 ; PI. n, B 1), Gibraltar, Genoa, and other Mediterranean ports
White Star and Canard lines), London, Glasgow. Hull, Hamburg, Jamaica,
and other points in the W. Indies, Nete York, Philadelphia, Baltimore,
Savannah, Portland, Halifax, Yarmouth, St. John, Augusta, Bangor, Mi.
Notes. BOSTON. 31. Route. 255
Desert, Provincetown, Plymouth, Isles of Shoals, Nahant (from Otis Wharf;
fare 25 c.), Revere Beach., Oloucester, etc. (wharves on the W. side of the
harbour). Steamers also run from Rowe's Wharf (PI. D, 2) to Nantasket
Beach, Hull, Hingham, and other points in Boston Harbour. — Ferries ply
to Chelsea (3 c.) and East Boston (1 c. ; see Map).
Street Railways. The urban rapid transit system of Boston is almost
wholly under one management (Boston Elevated Railway Go.) and is, per-
haps, unique in its combination of 'surface', elevated, tunnel, and sub-
way lines, all connecting and interchanging passengers with each other.
As a result of a most extensive system of free transfers, a single fare
of 5 c. carries a passenger from any one point to any other within an
area of about 100 sq. M. The track consists of nearly 9 M. of elevated
railway, 5 M. of subway, and 215 M. of surface lines. The company
operates 4500 cars and employs 8000 men. The operating power is electri-
city. In 1908 the number of passengers carried was 398,141,059.
a. Stkeet or Soefacb Cars (uniform fare 5 c). Electric tramways
traverse most of the chief streets and run to numerous suburbs within a
radius of 9 M. Among the chief points of starting and intersection are
Adams Sq. (Pi. C, 3), Scollay Sq. (PI. C, 3), Park Sq. (PI. C, 4), Bowdoin Sq.
(PI. B, C, 3), Iforth and South Stations (PI. B, 2; D, 3, 4), and Copley Sq.
(PI. B, 5). For connection with the Subway and Elevated Railway, see
below. Among the chief suburban termini are Arlington (p 275), Brookline
(p. 274), Cambridge (p. 270), Chelsea (p. 275), Dorchester (p. 246), East Boston
(p. 257), Jamaica Plain (p. 274), Maiden, Medford (p. 312), Newton (p. 241),
Roxhury (p. 246), South Boston (p. 257), and West Roxbury (p. 275; comp. Map
at p. 274), Among the more distant points reached without change of car
are Worcester (p. 240; cars start at Park Sq., PI. C 4) and Lowell (p. 312;
cars start at Sullivan Sq., PI. I, D 2). The stopping-places of the ears are
denoted by white bands on the trolley-posts; and passengers should take
care to wait only at the precise points thus indicated.
b. SoBWAT Cabs. The chief starting-point of the subway cars for
points to the W., N.W., and S W., is Park St., at the N.E. corner of the
Common (PI. C, 3), and the crowd here in business -hours is very great.
An ingenious system of electric signs indicates the dock at which each
car will start. These cars emerge from the Subway at the S.W. coraer
of the Public Garden (PI. C, 4). Other surface-cars for points to the N.
start at Scollay Sq. (PI. C, 3). Cars from the S. enter the Subway at the
junction of Tremont St. and Shawmut Ave. and run through the Subway
to the North Station, passing all of the Subway stations. Cars from the
1^. enter the Subway at the North Station. Between these through-cars
and those mentioned above, free transfer may be made at Park St. and
at Scollay Sq. For free transfer to the elevated trains, see below. For a
description of the Subway, see p. 280.
c. Elevated Railway (fare 5 c). This runs from Sullivan Sq., Charles-
town (PI. I; E, 1, 2) on the N. to (5 M.) Dudley St., Roxbury (PI. I; D, 7)
ont he S. The main line is operated under the business district throughlhe
Washington Street Tun'^el (p. 260). The direct trains (consisting of 3-5 cars)
from N. to S. pass Thompson Sq. (PI. II; A, 1) and (7% Sq. (PL II; B, 1),
cross the river by the ChaHestown Bridge (PL II; B, 2) to the North Union
Station (PL B, 2), descend an incline into the tunnel, pass Friend, Milk,
Winter, and Boylston St. stations, emerge from the tunnel at Broadway
(PL C, D, 5), and again follow the elevated track to Dover St. (PL D, 5),
Northampton St. (PL C, 7), and Dudley St. (PL I; D, 7). Northbound elevated
trains pass the same elevated stations, but in the tunnel call at Essex,
Summer, State, and Union stations. Elevated trains are also run between
the above-named terminals in both directions via Atlantic Avenue (see
PL II), diverging from the above route at North Station, passing Battery'St.,
State St., Rowe's Wharf, and South Station (comp. PL II), and then bending
to the right to Beach St. (PL C, 4). Extra trains also run in both direc-
tions between the North and South Stations, calling at intermediate stations.
The principal points for free transferring between the elevated trains
and surface-lines are Sullivan Sq., City Sq., North Station, Dover St.,
256 Route 31. BOSTON. Practical Notes.
Nortliampton St., and Dudley St. — The destination of the trains is an-
nounced by signs, the platform-officials, and the trainmen, while the
trainmen also announce each station as the train reaches it.
[The East Boston Tunnel (p. 260) extends from Scollay Sq. (PI. C, 3)
along State St. and under the Harbour (PI. I, G, 3, 4-, PI. II, D, 1, 2) to
Maverick Sq. in E. Boston (PI. I; Gr, 3). Surface-cars for East Boston and
Chelsea run through this tunnel (toll of 1 c, in addition to the car-fare).
The intermediate stations on this line are Court St., Devonshire St. (where
free transfer may be made to the Washington St. tunnel trains), and At-
lantic Ave. (free transfer to the elevated railway). An extension of the
Elevated Railway from Dudley St. (PL I; D, 7) to Forest Hills (PI. 1; B, 9)
is now under way. Subways to Cambridge and along the Charles River
(see p. 268) have also been authorized.]
The 'Seeing Boston' Observation Cars (comp. p. 19) offer a good
opportunity of seeing the city in a short space of time. The cars (electric)
leave Park Sq. (PI. C, 4) every day, including Sun., at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.
Fare 50 c. The route passes through the most important parts of Boston,
from Bunker Hill to the residential district on the Back Bay, traverses
Cambridge and Brookline, and affords views of other suburbs. A guide
accompanies each car to point out the objects of interest. Automobiles also
leave Boston Common (opp. 169 Tremont St.) thrice daily (10 a.m., 2 & 4 p.m.)
for a similar trip (fare $ 1). — Mr. F. A. Waterman (10 Hamilton Place) also
conducts parties, starting from the front of Park St Church at 9.30 a.m.
and 2.80 p.m., to the chief sights of Boston (3 hrs. ; 50 c).
Carriages. For cab-hiring purposes Boston is divided into a series
of districts, with regulations too complicated to summarize. For a short
drive, within a district or from one district to that immediately contig-
uous, the rate for each person is : Hacks 50 c, other Cabs 25 c. Double
fares from midnight till 6 a.m. Ordinary luggage free. Fare per hour
(1-4 pers.) $ I-IV2, with two horses S iV2-2V2. — Taximeter Cabs have re-
cently been introduced (fares as in 'New York, p. 18).
Places of Amusement. Opera House (PI- B, 7), Huntington Ave., for
grand opera (see p. 268); Hollis Street Theatre (PI. C. 4); Colonial Theatre
(PI. 27; C, 4); Majestic (Pi. C, 4); Tremont Theatre (PI.' C, 4); Park Theatre
(PI. C, 4); Boston Theatre (PI. C, 4), the largest in New England; Castle
Square Theatre (PI. C, 5), with good performances of plays at popular
prices; Orand Opera House (PI. ii ; D, 5), Washington St. (plays); Columbia
Theatre (PI. 7; D, 5); Bowdoin Square Theatre (PI. 3; C, 8); Keith's Theatre
(PI. C, 4), with a continuous variety performance (prices 25 c. to $ IV2);
Globe, Washington St., cor. of Beach St.; Orpheum (PI. C, 8), vaudeville;
Howard Athenaeum (PI. C, 8), Palace Theatre (PI. 16; C, 3). Lyceum, variety
performances at low prices; Turnhalle (PI. C, 5), 29 Middlesex St. (occa-
sional performances in German); Italian Theatre, North St.; TMdtre Pre-
mier, cor. of Washington and Beach Sts (PI, C, 4); Bijou Dream (P\. C, 4),
these two for moving pictures and illustrated songs (adm. 10 c). — The
celebrated "Boston Symphony Concerts are held in Symphony Hall (p. 267; Frid.
afternoon and Sit. evening in winter). Other good concerts are given in
the same hall (including popular evening concerts in May and June, with
smoking and refreshments) and in Steinert Hall. Potter Hall (p. 267), Jordan
Hall (p.2ol), Chickering Hall (p. 2QT), Tremont Theatre, Tremont Temple, and
Mechanics" Hall (p. 267; for large gathering.s). Cheap Sunday Concerts are
given at the Majestic and Boston Theatres (see above). The Haidel d: Haydn,
Harvard Musical, Cecilia, Apollo, and Orpheus are among the best of the
musical societies. — The free lectures of the Lowell Institute (tickets on
previous application) are delivered in winter at the Institute of Technology
(p. 263). — Art Exhibitions are held regularly in the rooms of the Boston
Art Club (p. 267), and at Copley Hall, near Copley Sq. (PI. B, 5). — Good
Flower Shows are held in Horticultural Hall (p. 287). — The Baseball Grounds
of the National League are in Walpole St., at the S. End; those of the
American League are in Huntington Ave., close by. — A Lawn Tennis Tourna-
ment is held annually at the grounds of the Longwood Club. — Public Golf
Situation. BOSTON. 31. Route. 257
Links at Franklin Park (p. 269). — Charles River Bark, near the Cambridge
end of Harvard Bridge (PI. I; C, 4), with bicycle track, etc. — Horse Races
at the Country Club (see below) and Mystic Park.
Clubs. Somerset (PI. B, 4), 42 Beacon St. ; Algonquin (PI. A, B, 5), 217 Com-
monwealth Ave.; St. Sotolph (PI. B, 4, 5), 2 Newbnry St., with Sat. evening
reunions in the style of the Century Club at New York (p. 24) and frequent
art- exhibitions ; Union (PI. C, 3) , 8 Park St.; Temple, 74 Boylston St.;
Puritan (PI. 18; B, 4), cor. of Beacon and Spruce Sts.; University (p. 267);
City Club (PI. C, 3), cor. of Beacon and Somerset Sta. (3000 members);
Technology. SB Newburv St. ; Elysium, 218 Huntington Ave. (Hebrew) ; Tavern
Club (PI. 20; C, 4), 4 Boylston Place; Authors'" Club; Boston Art Club (p. 267);
20th Century Club, 3 Joy St., with weekly lectures on questions of social
interest; Exchange Club, 22 Batterymarch St. ; Turnverein. 29 Middlesex St.,
German; Boston Athletic Association (p. 267); Tennis & Racquet Club (PI. 19;
A, 6), 939 Boylston St. ; Mayflower Club (for ladies), 6 Park St. (PI. C, 3) ;
College Club (for graduates of women's colleges), 41 Commonwealth Ave. ,
NetD England Women s Club, Huntington Ave.; Press Club, 156 A Tremont
St.; Women's Press Club; Appalachian Mt. Club (p. 320). Tremont Building
(p. 270); Camera Club, 60 Bromfield St. ; ^ew Riding Club, 52 Hemenway St.,
near Back Bay Park ; Boston Driving Club, Charles River Speedway (p. 273) ;
Massachusetts Automobile Club, 761 Boylston St. ; Country Cltib, Clyde Park;
Brookline ; Union Boat Club, foot of Chestnut St. ; Victorian Club, for British
residents (meetings at the Hotel Westminster). — Among the Dimn^ Clubs,
which are a characteristic Boston institution, are the Saturday Club and
the Papyrus, besides several of a political, commercial, or professional
complexion ; other good clubs, meeting at the members' houses or elsewhere,
are the Wednesday Evening Club (founded 1777), the Thursday Evening Club,
the Saturday Morning Club (women), and the Round Table (sociological).
Tourist Agents, Raymond & Whitcomb Co., 306 Washington St.; Thos.
Cook & Son, 332 Washington St.
Post Office (PI. C, 3). Devonshire St., open from 7.30 a.m. to 7.30p.m.,
Sun. 9-10 a.m. (p. 262). ' Branch Offices at Copley Sq. (p. 263), at Wash-
ington St., cor. of Brookline St. (PI. C, 6), Massachusetts Ave., cor. of
Bovlston St. (PI. A, 6), etc.
Consuls. British, Mr. Frederick Leay, 247 Atlantic Ave. (PI. D, 2);
German, Mr. W. Th. Reincke, 70 State St.
Booksellers. Old Corner Book Store, 27 Bromfield St, ; Clarke, 28 Tremont
St.; Be Wolfe, Fiske, & Co., 20 Franklin St.; Little, Brown, d: Co.; C. E.
Lauriat dk Co., these two in Washington St. (Nos. 254, 385); Schoenhof,
Ritter d; Flebbe, these two (for foreign books) in Tremont St.,Nos. 128 A & 149 A.
Bibliography. An excellent popular account of Boston is M. A. Be
Wolfe Howe''s 'Boston : the Place and the People' (1903). See also Edwin
M. Bacon's 'Boston, a Guide Book' (new ed., 1907) and 'Walks and Rides
about Boston' ($ 1.25); Henry Cabot Lodge's 'Boston' ('Historic Towns Series'),
and iS. A. Drake''s 'Old Landmarks and Historic Personages of Boston'.
Boston , the capital of Massachusetts, the chief town of New
England, and one of the oldest and most interesting cities in the
United States, lies at the head of Massachusetts Bay, ahout 200 M.
to the N.E. of New York. Boston proper occupies a peninsula be-
tween the Charles River and the arm of the hay known as Boston
Harbour and was originally founded on three hills. Beacon, Copp's,
and Fort, which, however, have heen materially cut down. The city
limits also include East Boston, on Noddle's or Maverick Island, on
the other side of the harhour; South Boston, separated from the old
city hy an arm of the harbour; Charlestown, on the other side of the
river; and the suburban districts of Brighton (W."), Eoxbury (or Boston
Highlands), West Roxbury (including Jamaica Plain'), a-ndi Dorchester
(S.). Boston is connected with the city of Cambridge (p. 270) by
258 Route 31. BOSTON. History.
several bridges across the Charles. The old town is cramped and
irregular, and its streets are narrow and crooked ; but the new parts,
especially the so-called Back Bay (p. 268), formed by filling in
the tide-water flats on the Charles, are laid out on a very spacious
scale. The chief retail business-streets are Washington Street and
Tremont Street. Among the finest residence streets are Common-
wealth Avenue (p. 267) , Beacon Street (;^. 268), Marlborough Street,
Mt. Vernon Street, and Bay State Road. A characteristic feature
of the residence quarters is seen in the luxuriant vines of 'Boston
ivy' (Ampelopsis Veitchii), which cover many of the buildings (esp-
ecially beautiful in autumn). The population of Boston in 1905 was
595,380, including a large proportion of Irish Roman Catholics.
History. The Indian name of tlie peninsula on whicli Boston lies
was Shawmut ('Sweet Waters'), and the early colonists called it Trimoun-
iaine or Tremont. The first English settler was a recluse Anglican clergyman,
the Rev. William Blaxton or Blackstone (ca. 1623), but soon after the arrival
of the Salem Colonists, who migrated to this peninsula in 1630 (see
p. 281), he transferred his rights to them (1634) for SOi. and moved into
the wilderness (comp. p. 245). The new settlers named the place Boston
in honour of the native city of some of their leaders, and Gov. Winthrop
made it the capital of the colony. The little town increased with some
rapidity and soon carried on a considerable sea-going trade (first wharf
built in 1673). In the middle of the 18th cent. Boston was probably the
largest and most important town in America, containing about 25,000 in-
hab., and outstripping New York and Philadelphia. The first American
newspaper ('Boston News Letter') was published here in 1704. Boston's
share in the Revolution is well known. The 'Boston Massacre' (3ee p. 262)
occurred on March 5th, 177U, and the 'Boston Tea Party' on Dec. 16th, 1773
(comp. pp. 263, 270). During the war Boston was occupied by British troops,
but on March 4th, 1776, Washington crossed from Cambridge, took possession
of Dorchester Heights (now a part of South Boston, p. 257), and compelled
the evacuation of the city (March 17th). Since the Revolution Boston's
upward course has continued steadily, with a few interruptions, of which
the embargo of 1807-15 was perhaps the most important. It received its
city charter in 1822, having then a population of about 50,000. In 1840
this number had risen to 93,383, in 1860 to 177,840, in 1880 to 362,839, and
in 1900 to 560,892. In 1872 the chief business portion of the city was
devastated by a fire, which destroved property to the value of $70,000,000
(14,000.0'"K>Z.)- From 1830 to 1860 Boston wa« the headquarters of the
Abolitioni'^t Party, led by William Lloyd Garrison (p 283; tablet on office of
'The Liberator', N.E. cor. of Congress <fe Water Str, comp. PI. C 3) and Wendell
Phillips (house in Essex St., cor. of Harrison Ave., comp. PI. C4; tablet).
It is of great interest to study a plan of Boston, showing the original
area of the peninsula and the extent to which it has been increased by
filling in the tidal flats all round it (see, e. g., M. Howe^s 'Boston').
This process has more than doubled the area of the peninsula (780 acres;
now about 1830 acres), while the total area now comprised within the
municipal limits is over 27,0X) acres (43 sq. M.). The hills have been
partly levelled, and indeed the whole face of the ancient city has been
entirely altered, with the exception of three old burial-grounds and a few
buildings. The original peninsula was connected with the mainland on
the S. by a narrow 'Neck', little wider than the present Washington St.,
which runs along it. Boston has often been described as the most English
of American cities, and in many respects this is true, though it must not be
understood to indicate a conscious or voluntary imitation of English stand-
ards. Mere wealth probably counts for less in Boston than in any other
large American city. As a literary centre Boston was long supreme in the
United States and still disputes the palm with New York. A list of its
Boston Common. BOSTON. 31. Boute 259
distingnished literary men would include Hawthorne, Emerson, Longfellow,
HoJmet, Lowell, Everett, Agassiz, Whittier, Motley, Bancroft, Prescott, Parkman^
Ticknor^ Channing, Theodore Parker, Henry James., T. B. Aldrich, and Howells
among the names more or leas closely associated with Boston. Samuel
F. Smith (1808-95), author of 'America', was born at 37 Sheafe St. (PI, C, 2;
tablet). Among the most eminent of its sons in other spheres are Benjamin
Franklin (born in 1706 at No. 17 Milk St., the site of which is now covered
by an office-building, with a bust of Franklin). Daniel Web ier (138 Summer
St.; inscription), Samuel Adam^ (b. in 1722 at 262 Purchase St., PI. D 3;
lived at corner of Winter St. and Winter Place, PI. C 3; tablets; comp.
also below), and Charles Sumner (20 Hancock St.). Paul Revere (see below)
lived at No. 19 North Sq. (PI. C, 2; tablet). Prescott wrote his 'Conquest
of Peru' and 'Philip II.' at No. 55 Beacon St., where he spent the last
14 years of his life; and George Ticknor occupied part of the house at the
corner of Park St. and Beacon St. where Lafayette lodged in 1824, The
Atlantic Monthly is published at Boston (4 Park St., formerly the home of
Josiah Quincy, p. 273).
Commerce and Industry. Boston is, perhaps, the wealthiest city in
America in proportion to population. Its total valuation in 1907 was
$ 1,313,470,556 (262,694,111?.). Boston capital has been very largely in-
strumental in the development of the West. Its foreign commerce is very
extensive-, the total value of its exports in the calendar year 1907, was
$ 104,611,089, of its imports $ 123,411,169. Among the chief articles are
grain, live-stock, cotton, provisions, hemp, fish, wool, sugar, hides, chemi-
cals, and coal. In the same year its harbour was entered and cleared by
2808 vessels (exclusive of coasters), of 5,139,152 tons burden. Its manu-
factures are very varied, employing (1905) 58,160 hands and producing
goods to the value of $ 184,351,163. Among the staples are leather, boots
and shoes, hardware, machinery, sugar, and cotton. As a wool market,
Boston is second to Loudon alone, handling nearly 1,000,000 bales annually.
*Boston Common (PI. B, C, 3, 4), a park of 48 acres in the heart
of the city, shaded by fine elms and other trees and crossed by many
pleasant walks, has been reserved for public use since 1634 and is
carefully guarded for this purpose in the charter of 1822. Perhaps
no other city-park in the world is more closely entwined with the
historic interests and warm affections of the surrounding population.
The Soldiers' Monument, on a hill near the centre of the Com-
mon, was designed by Martin Milmore and erected in 1871-77. It
stands near the site of the Old Elm, which was older than the city
and was blown down in 1876. Adjacent is the so-called Frog Pond.
On the Mall abutting on Tremont St. is a monument in memory of
Crispus Attucks and others killed in the Boston Massacre (p. 262).
The 'Long Path' (see 'The Autocrat of the Breakfast Table') extends
from Joy St. (PI. 0, 3) to Boylston St. (PL C, 4). Near Park St.
(N. end of the Common) is the Brewer Fountain. — Open-air
concerts are given on the Common on Sun. afternoons in summer.
On the S, side of the Common is the Central Burying Ground (PI. C, 4),
laid out in 1756 and containing the graves of Gilbert Stuart (1754-1828;
pp. Lxxxi, 243), the portrait-painter, and Julien (d. 1805), the restaurateur (after
whom the well-known soup is named). — To the N.E. of the Common, adjoin-
ing Tremont St., is the Old Granary Burial Ground (PI C, 3), which contains
the graves of several early governors of Massachusetts, the parents of Benj.
Franklin, the victims of the Boston Massacre (p. 262), Samuel Adams (1722-
1803; see above), John Hancock (1737-93), Paul Revere (1735-1818; see above),
James Otis (1725-83), and other Boston worthies (permit at the City Hall).
On theS.W. side the Common is bounded by Charles St., on the other
side of which is the *Public Garden (PI. B, C, 4), 24 acres in extent, the site
260 BouU31. BOSTON. State House.
of which half-a-centtiry ago was a tidal flat. The show of flowers here
in spring and summer is very fine. Among the monuments in the Public
Garden are an equestrian ^'Statue of Washington, by Ball, statues of Edward
Everett (1794-1865; by Story), and Sumner (1811-74; by Ball), and a group
commemorating the Discovery of Ether, by J. Q. A. Ward. — At the S.W.
corner of the Public Garden stands a bronze statue of Dr. William Ellery
Charming (1780-1842), by Herbert Adams, with a carved canopy by Vincent
C. Griffith. Immediately opposite is the Arlington Street Church (PI. B, 5),
built in 1859, by the congregation of which Dr. Ghanning (p. 249) was
pastor from 1803 till his death (good stained glass).
That part of the Common adjoining Tremont St. and known as
the Tremont St. Mall is now occnpied hy eight small bnildings
covering the staircase entrances to the stations of the *Snbway, a
wonderful piece of engineering designed to facilitate traffic hy afford-
ing an nndergronnd passage for the electric cars. The snbway was
constructed in 1895-98 at a cost of about $4,165,000.
The main subway extends from the junction of Tremont St. and
Shawmut Ave. (PI. C, 5) to (IVs M.) the N. Union Station (PI. B, 2), pass-
ing below Tremont St., ScoUay Sq. (PI- C, 3), and Haymarket Sq. (PI. 0,2).
A branch-subway, beginning at the S. corner of the Public Garden (PI. C, 4),
runs under Boylston St. to the corner of Tremont St. (PI. 0, 4), and extends
under Tremont St. to Park St. Some sections are constructed of steel, em-
bedded in cement, with arches of brick or concrete; other sections are of
masonry. The interior at the stations is lined with glazed white brick. At
Tremont and Boylston Sts. is a 'sub-subway', one track passing below an-
other, and at other points there are four tracks. — The East Boston Tunnel
(see p. 256) is about IV2 M. long, of which upwards of a third is under water.
Its diameter is 232/3 ft., or about the same as that of the Blackwall Tunnel
under the Thames, and its approximate cost was $ 3.000,000 (600,000?.). —
The Washington Street Tunnel (see p. 256), constructed at a cost of $ 5,500,(X)0
and opened in 1908, extends from Haymarket Sq. (PI. C, 2) to Broadway
(PI. C, 5), a distance of about li/s M. At Adams Sq. (PL C, 3) it passes
below the Subway, and it also passes under the East Boston Tunnel.
Near the N.E. angle of the Common, on Beacon Hill, stands
the *State House (PI. C, 3) , an imposing building surmounted by
a huge gilded dome (open to visitors except when the Senate sits;
*View) and preceded by a Corinthian portico and a flight of steps.
The architect of the original building facing Beacon St., of which the
general appearance has been preserved, was Charles Bulfinch (1795).
It was, however, enlarged in 1853-56; and another huge extension,
much larger than the original erection, was accomplished in 1889-98.
The architecturally not very successful new part consists mainly of
yellow brick with trimmings of white marble and numerous columns
and pilasters. The whole building is now 462 ft. long, 172-212 ft.
wide, and 103 ft. high (to top of lantern on dome, 155 ft.). On the
terrace in front are statues of Daniel Webster (1782-1852) and
Horace Mann (1796-1859). The dome is illuminated at night.
Interior. We first enter the Doric Rail, coBtaining statues of Gov.
Andrew (by Ball) and George "Washington (by Chantrey), and various
historical relics. Directly to the N. is the grand staircase of pavonazzo
marble, with twelve fine Ionic columns on its balcony. The paintings on
the N. wall are by Robert Reid. Beyond the staircase is the handsome
^Memorial Hall, which contains a collection of flags carried by Massachusetts
regiments in the Civil War, historical paintings by H. 0. Walker (N. & S.
panels) and Edward Simmons (E. & W. panels), a statue of Gen. Bartlett
Shaw Monument. BOSTON. 31. Route. 261
by Dan. French (1904), etc. — On the third floor, at the head of the stair-
case, is a Memorial to Governor Roger Wolcott (1847-1900), hy D. C. French
and H. Bacon (1906j. On the S. side of this floor is the Senate Chamber^
with Doric columns, and adorned with busts of Washington, Lincoln,
Sumner, Franklin, Lafayette, and other eminent men. — The Senate Re-
ception Room (8.E. corner), of Ionic design, has portraits of twenty gover-
nors and relics of the War of the Revolution. — The House of Represent-
atives, a handsome elliptical chamber (W. side), is finished in white maho-
gany. Opposite the Speaker's chair, between two columns, hangs a codfish,
an emblem of one of the former chief sources of the State's prosperity. —
Also on the W. side is the Council Chamber, of the Corinthian order. — At
the N. end of the building is the fine State Library (140.OJ0 vols.), the chief
treasure of which (exhibited under glass) is the 'History of Plimoth Plan-
tation', generally known (erroneously) as the 'Log of the Mayflower',
written with his own hand by William Bradford, Governor of Plymouth
Colony (1589-1657). — Among the other fine apartments shown to visitors
are the Governor^ Room and the Reading Rooms of the Senate and the House
of Representatives. Comp. handbook by E. M. Burrill (25c.).
On the E. side of the new part of the State House a small park
has heen laid out. Here has been erected a reproduction of the
Beacon Monument, raised in 1790 on the site of the old Beacon
(1635) to commemorate the success of the Revolution and removed
in 1812. The bronze tablets belonged to the first monument. Here
also stand a statue of General Charles Devens, by Olin Warner,
and, at the Beacon St. corner, an equestrian statue of Major-
General Joseph Hooker, by D. C. French.
In Beacon St.. opposite the State House, is the beautiful *Shaw
Monument, by Augustus Saint- Gaudens, erected in 1897 in honour
of Col. Shaw and his regiment (the first coloured regiment raised in
the Civil War). This is probably the flirst instance of a relief placed
as a monument by itself instead of against a building.
In Beacon St., just below the State House, stood the old Han-
cock Mansion (site indicated by a tablet on the balustrade).
We now follow Beacon Street towards the N., passing (left), at
the corner of Bowdoin St., the Unitarian Building (PI. C, 3), the
headquarters of the American Unitarian Association, opposite which
is the Congregational Building (1898). Adjoining the latter is the
*Boston Athenaeum (PI. 2 ; C, 3), an institution founded in 1807
and now containing a library of 220,000 vols, (open to members
only). — In Somerset St., which diverges to the left, is the New
England Historic- Genealogical Society, with valuable collections ot
books and MSS. (9-6). Here, too, is the back of the New County
Court House (PL C, 3), a massive granite building in the German
Renaissance style, the front of which faces Pemberton Square. The
building is 450 ft. long. The imposing central hall is adorned with
emblematic figures by D. Mora, a statue of Rufus Choate (1799-
1859) by Dan. French, etc.
We, however, proceed to the right, thiongh. School Street, in
which, to the left, at the corner of Tremont St., stands King's
Chapel (PI. C, 3), built in 1754 on the site of the first Episcopalian
church of Boston (tablet to Oliver Wendell Holmes inside, on the
262 Route 31. BOSTON. Faneuil Hall.
N. wall). The adjoining bnrial-ground, the oldest in Boston, con-
tains the graves of Oov. Winthrop (1588-1649) and other worthies.
In School St., to the left, is the City Hall (PI. C, 3), behind which
is the Old Court House (PI. C, 3). In front of the City Hall are
statues of Franklin (1706-90), by Greenough, a.ndL Josiah Quincy
(1772-1864; mayor for six years in succession), by Ball.
School St. ends at the large Old South Building (offices) in
Washington Stkeet (PI. I, F-B, 3-9 ; II, C D, 2-7), the most
crowded thoroughfare in Boston, with many of the best shops. Fol-
lowing Washington St. ('Newspaper Row') to the left, we soon reach,
at the corner of State St., the *01d State House (PL C, 3), dating
from 1748 and restored as far as possible to its original appearance,
even to the figures of the British lion and unicorn on the roof.
The 'Boston Massacre' (p. 25S) was the result of an encounter between
a British sentry here and the crowd. The rooms, including the old Coun-
cil Chamber and Ball of Representatives on the upper floor, contain a collec-
tion of historical relics and paintings (9.30-4.30; free). On the top-floor is
the Curtis Collection of Photographs of Ancient Boston Buildings. The
main facts of the building's history are given in appropriate inscriptions.
The rooms are in the guardianship of the Bostonian Society (offices on
groundfloor). — Below the basement is a station of the East Boston Svbway.
State Street (PL 0, D, 3, 2), the centre of financial life, leads
hence to the E., past the Exchange Building (with the Stock Exchange^
and other large office-buildings, to the Custom House (PL D, 2), a
massive granite building in the shape of a Greek cross, with a dome.
State St. ends at Atlantic Ave. and Long Wharf (PL D, 2).
T Wharf" (PL D, 2), a little farther to the E., presents an interesting
sight in winter when the fishing-schooners come in covered with ice.
Change Alley (now inappropriately styled 'Avenue'), diverging
to the left from State St. , leads to *Faneuil Hall (PL C, 2, 3 ; open
9-5), the 'cradle of American liberty', originally presented to the city
in 1742, by Peter Faneuil, a Huguenot merchant, but rebuilt after
a fire in 1761 and reconstructed on the original plan in 1898.
The Hall proper, on the upper floor, is 76 ft. square. It is used for
public meetings and was the scene of numerous important gatherings in
Revolutionary, Abolition, and later times. The British officers used it
as a theatre in 1775-76. It contains a large picture by Healy (Webster
addressing the Senate) and portraits of eminent Americans (copies). —
The floor above the hall is occupied by the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Co.^
the oldest military organization in the country (1638; comp. Baedeker's
London)^ with a military museum (open 10-4, except Sat. and Sun. ; free).
Adjacent is Qjuincy Market (PI. C, 2), a crowded and busy scene in the
morning from 9 to 11. — The Chamber of Commerce (PI. 5 5 D, 2), built in
19U2, is in India Street.
Devonshire Street leads to the right (S.) from State St. to the
Government Building (PL C, 3) , a huge edifice by Mullet^ in his
usual Mansard-roof style, occupying the entire block between Milk
St., Devonshire St., Water St., and Post Office Sq. The Post Office
occupies the groundfloor, the basement, and part of the first floor,
while the rest of the building is devoted to the t/. 8. Sub-Treasury
(10-2) and the U.S. Courts (2nd floor). The allegorical groups above
the main entrance are by D. C. French.
Old South Meeting House. BOSTON. 31. Route. 263
The Post Office, though it itself escaped, adjoins the district destroyed
by the fire of 1872 (p. 258) and now covered with substantial business
blocks. The financial quarter is crowded into the small territory bounded
by State, Washington, Milk, and Broad Sts. (PI. C, D, 3) ; the wool trade is cen-
tred in Federal St., Atlantic Ave., and the extension of Summer St. (PI. D, 3);
the leather and boot and shoe trade spreads over Lincoln and South Sts.
(PI. D, 4), and also part of Pearl St. (PI. D, 3) and Atlantic Ave. (PI. D,
2, 3); while the wholesale dry-goods business affects Winthrop Sq. and
Franklin, Chauncy, Kingston, and Bedford Sts. (PI. C, D, 3, 4). The large
retail dry -goods stores of Boston rank with those of New York (p. 25).
Among the most noted are the Jordan-Marsh Co., the R. H. White Co., Siegel
(these two with moving stairways), Filene, and Shuman (Washington St.),
Hollander (Boylston St.), Stearns and Houghton d; Button (Tremont St.), the
Sh^ard-Norwell Co. (Temple Place), and Hovey (Summer St.).
We now follow Milk Street (PI. C, 3), to the W., back to Wash-
ington St. At the corner of Washington St. stands the *01d South
Meeting House (PL 15 ; C, 3) , built in 1729 on the site of an
earlier church of wood, which lay near Gov. Winthrop's house.
Benjamin Franklin (p. 259) was baptized in the original church in 1706,
and here Judge Sewall made his confession of repentance for his share in
the witchcraft delusion of 1692. Some of the most stirring meetings of the
Revolutionary times were held here, and from its doors the disguised
Bostonians who threw the tea into the harbour in 1773 (pp. xxx, 258, 270)
started for their enterprise. The British turned it into a riding-school in
1775, but it was afterwards restored to its sacred uses. The annual Election
Sermon was delivered here, with few interruptions, from 1712 to 1872.
It barely escaped the fire of 1872 and was afterwards used for a short
time as a post-office. It now belongs to a patriotic society and contains
an interesting collection of historical relics (9-6; adm. 25 c.).
A tablet on a building farther on, nearly opposite Boylston St.
(see helow), marks the site of the old Liberty Tree, a great rallying
point at the time of the Revolution.
Boylston Street (PI. C-A, 4-6), diverging from Washington
St. to the right (W.), skirts the Common and Public Garden and
leads to the Back Bay (p. 268). To the left, at the end of Columbus
Ave., a short distance from Boylston St., we see the tower of what
used to be the Providence Station (now unoccupied). In front of
this building is the Emancipation Group (PI. C, 4), by Ball ; the
negro is a portrait of Archer Alexander, the last slave captured under
the 'Fugitive Slave Law' in Missouri. — At the corner of Berkeley St.
(right) stands the Museum of Natural History (PL B, 5 ; 9-5, 25 c. ;
free on Sun., 1-4.30, and on Wed. & Sat., 10-4.30), with a library
of 30,000 vols, and good zoological, ornithological, entomological,
and mineralogical collections. Opposite are the Berkeley Oalleries
Building and the Young Mens Christian Association. Adjacent is the
♦Massachusetts Institute of Technology (PI. B, 5), the leading
institution of the kind on the W. side of the Atlantic (1400 students ;
fine apparatus and collections). — Opposite is the large Brunswick
Hotel (p. 254).
Boylston St now reaches *Coplby Squase (PI. B, 5), which
offers perhaps the finest architectural group in Boston, including
Trinity Church, the Museum of Fine Arts , the Public Library,
the Second Church (Unitarian), and the New Old South Church.
264 Route 31. BOSTON. Public Library.
* Trinity Church' (PI. B, 5), on the E. side of the square, the
masterpiece of E. H. Richardson and a typical example of 'Richard-
sonian' architecture, is deserredly regarded as one of the finest
huildings in America. It was practically completed in 1877 at a
cost of $ 800,000 (160,000i.) ; the two W. towers and the admirable
carving of the porch (hy Cairns and Mora') date from 1896-98. Its
style may he described as a free treatment of the Romanesque of
Central France (Auvergne).
The building is in the form of a Latin cross, surmotinted by a
massive central *■ Towei\ 210 ft. high, suggested by the lantern of the Old
Cathedral of Salamanca (see Baedeker't Spain). The interior is very
elaborately decorated by La Farge. The 'Stained-glass Windows include
fine specimens of La Farge, Bume Jones and William Morris, Henry Holi-
day, and Clayton & Bell. It is interesting to compare the painted Eng-
lish windows with La Farge's work, in which only the faces and hands
are painted, the rest being in coloured glass. Near the chancel are busts
of Bean Stanley (1815-81) and of the Rev. Phillips Brooks (d. 18^3 ^ by D. C.
French), late Bishop of Massachusetts and rector of Trinity Church for
22 years. [A statue of Bishop Brooks, by Saint- Oaudens, is soon to be
erecttd in C-pley Sq.] The adjacent Chapel is connected with the church
by very effective open cloisters, in which is preserved the tracery from
a window of the ancient church of St. Botolph, Boston, England.
The *Public Library (PI. B, 5), on the W. side of the square,
designed by McKim, Mead, & White and erected in 1888-95, is a dig-
nified, simple, and scholarly edifice, which forms a worthy mate
to its vis-a-vis, Trinity Church. Its style is that of the Roman Renais-
sance. It is 228 ft. long, 225 ft. wide, and 68 ft. high (to the cornice),
and encloses an open court, 140 ft. long and 100 ft. wide. The total
cost, exclusive of the site, was $ 2,486,000. The library is open
to the public, 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. in winter (summer till 9 p.m. ; Sun.
2 to 9 or 10). It is one of the largest free libraries in the world (ca.
900,000 vols.), circulating 1,461,403 vols, for home use in 1906.
Exterior. Among the chief features of the exterior are the reliefs
over the main entrance (arms of the Library, City, and State; by Augustus
Saint-Gaudens) ., the medallions below the cornice representing the book-
marks of famous printers, and the inscribed names of eminent men.
The ''Interior is excellently arranged and equipped and affords ac-
commodation for a million volumes. The VestHntle.1 ot Knoxville marble,
contains a statue of Sir Harry Vane (1612-62), by MacMonnies. — The ^n^rance
Hall has a floor of white marble, inlaid with brass. — The corridor to the
right leads to the Newspaper Reading Room (350 papers in all languages),
the Periodical Reading Room (where about 1400 periodicals are displayed),
the Patent Library, and the Department of Statistics. — The left corridor
leads to the Catalogue Room. — From the Entrance Hall a superb marble
"Staircase, 20 ft. wide, embellished with figures of lions, in Siena marble,
by Louis Saint- Gaudens., ascends to the first tloor. Its windows overlook the
■■Central Court, with its turf, fountain, arcade, and open-air walk, to which
readers may resort in hot weather. The panels of the staircase-hall contain
^Paintings by Puvis de Chavannes , representing the Muses greeting the
Genius of Enlightenment and figures of Philosophy. Physics, History, Epic
Poetry, etc. It is instructive to compare the efi'ectiveness of these works
from the hand of an expert with the comparative failure of some of the
wall-paintings upstairs, executed by artists whose well-deserved fame is
not based on decorative painting. — On the first floor is 'Bates Hall (so
called in honour of an early benefactor of the library, a member of the firm
of Baring Bros.), the great general reading-room, which is 2l7Vs ft. long,
Museum of Fine Arts. BOSTON. 31 . Route. 265
421/2 ft. wide, and 50 ft. high. — To the right is the Delivery Room^ adorned
by not very perspicuous scenes illustrating the Quest of the Holy Grail,
by Edwin A. Abbey. — To the left are the Children's Rooms (one with
effective ceiling decoration by John Elliott) and the Lecture Hall. — We now
ascend to the second floor, passing a small balcony overlooking Bates Hall.
Sargent Hall is adorned with somewhat complicated frescoes by John
S. Sargent, the meaning of which may be deciphered with the aid of keys
provided for the purpose. The valuable special collections of the library
housed on this floor include the Ticknor Collection of Spanish and Por-
tuguese Books, the Barton Library (with one of the finest existing collec-
tions of Shakspeariana, including both the early folios and the early quar-
tos), the Bowditch Mathematical Library, the Prince Library (MSS. and
early New England books, including two copies of the Bay Psalm Book,
see p. 50, and Eliofs Indian Bible, 1663-85), the Barlow Library (Ameri-
cana 5 including a Latin copy of the letter of Columbus to the King and
Queen of Spain in 1493), the John Adams Library (2800 vols.), the Franklin
Collection, the collection of works on early American history, the John
A. Lewis Library (including many early books printed in Boston), the
Galatea Library (books on the history of women), the Codman Library
(works on landscape gardening), the Artz Library of American first edi-
tions, and the Tosti Collection of Engravings. The Allen A. Brown Library
of Music (10,800 vols. ; catalogue $ 2) occupies a separate room. Another
is devoted to Art, where rare and illuminated MSS. are sometimes exhibited.
The Second Church (PI. B, 5), rebmlt on its present site on tlie
N. side of Copley Sq. in 1873-74, was the church of the three
Mathers (p. 269) and of Ralph Waldo Emerson (1829-32).
The *Museiim of Fine Arts (PI. B, 5), on the S. side of Copley
Sq., a structure of red brick, with terracotta details, contains some
valuable collections (open daily 9 to 4 or 5, Sun. 12-5; adm. 25 c,
free on Sat. & Sun. ; admirable Handbook of the Museum 50 c. ;
separate sections 15 c. each). Director, Mr. Arthur Fairbanks. In
1907 the total number of yisitors was 259, 566. — As the collections
are to be removed to the new building (see p. 268) in 1909, we
here merely enumerate the chief features of interest without any
attempt to indicate the position of the various exhibits. The service
of a 'Decent', who will explain the objects shown, may be obtained
(gratis) on application at the desk in the entrance-hall.
The Collection of Casts is surpassed in importance by those of Berlin,
Dresden, and Strassburg only. — The Collection of Greek and Roman Sculp-
tures, though not large, contains some very choice pieces. Among those
acquired mainly with the bequest of Mrs. Perkins and the Henry L. Pierce
fund are the following: *Hermes (torso and head); *Torso of a goddess,
an original Greek work; 'Ideal Greek head (ca. 380 B.C.); two fine heads
of Augustus (one the so-called 'Despuig' head); *Head of Alexander the
Great ; Head of Zeus (4th cent, copy of the Olympian Zeus of Phidias) ;
part of an archaic stele (5th cent. B.C.); Roman portrait-head of Corbulo;
Young Apollo, marble statue, the arms wanting, the feet restored (probably
a Roman copy of a Greek original); Archaic lion in red sandstone; head
of a Greek poet (Menander?); head of a goddess from Alexandria Qate-
Greek); Roman terracotta portrait *Head (evidently produced by the use
of a life mask); torso of a youth, probably a copy of a lost Polycletus
(5th cent. B.C.); torso of a female figure, Greek (3rd cent. B.C.); Attic grave
monument (ca. 400B.C.) in the form of a vase; **Head of Homer; a group
of Leda and the Swan (5th-4th cent. B.C.). Every object in the ^Francis
Bartlett Collection of Greek marbles, bronzes, terracottas, etc., merits careful
inspection. The following may be selected for special attention: lower
half of a draped female figure, probably a Greek work of the 4th cent.
Babdekek's United States. 4th Edit. 17
266 RouU.H. BOSTON. MuseMm of Fine Arts*.
B.C.; interesting llttlo Hgnrc ol" ft WoepinjAi Siron, orininally part of a
Hrftvofltonp iltvoration ; '"llciftil of Ajihrodito, ovidontly l)olonj;inj; to tUts
School of Traxitolo'^, and datint^ not later tlian the Atli ctMit. B.('.; frag-
niont of a Mounted Ania/.on oarly -111* *<"iit. H.(\ ; fra^^montary *Fi(iuro of
a neatod womjui, »)f later period than the o(hcr srulptnn'H ; Lontor, or bath-
bHflin, a. (Ino and pi()l)aiily nnujuo txaniplo of arthaic OriH'li hron/e-work
of the Olh i-tnt. H.t". Tlu^ Collection of llrrek Vitsfs contanivS sonio lino
(ipociuion.s, including an Athenian "Crntvra (c». 470 It.C), with scenes from
the Trojan War. The other classical colhxtions include Coins, Oitras,
Oreitk Tfii'mcotUun, '"ArreliM Warti (ranking aecond among the world's colloc
tionp), liointm (Uass, and Grrek nnU h'trtiscan Mirror* ami Hold Onminents
(including a famous ^CaiiKO, the Nuptials of C>ipid and I'sycho, from
tiie Marlliorouf.h Collection). The Klruscan Sarcophagi and Cypriote Anii
iliiities may also he noteil. - Tlio Egyptian Antiquities include stono vases
of tlio Old lOnipire. a porlrait-liead oi the 41 li l>yu. (in limestone), a golden
statuette of llerlshi-f, a r«)ynl scarab ol Sethiis I. (lyth l>vn.), aiul a
*l'riest'8 rt)bi> of leather, from Thebes (ca. lfHX> U.C).
'VUo Oolloutlon of Paintings iiu'liules many wliich are on loan and
iVetiuently cluingeil. Among the works by Olii Masters arc the following:
Vivnrini, Saints (on panel); \'an /'j/<A', I'ortrait of Anna Maria tieSchodt;
lieiiihrandt, "Study of his futlier, Hanae, and Portraits ot Dr. Nicholas
Tulp and bis wife; Hut>enx, Marriage of St. Catharine, st»>dy tor the altar-
pit>ce in the .^uguslin^^ tMiurch, Antwerp; Jac. van litipsdael, Landscape;
/'. de Jloo(/li, Interior; W. ran de Tf/i/f', Sea-piece t j\. Maat, Jealous bus-
bantl ; Metmiy Usurer; llat.<. Portrait of a lady; Ttttiicrs, Butcher's shop;
^nn dur UVj/i/en, *St. Luke drawing the Madonna. : Fletnit/i School, "Madonna
and Child; Crivdli, Piet^; WoMi/etnnth, Death of the Virgin; Aioroni, Por
trait; Vd(i:ijiici, I'bilip IV., 'Don Haltha/.ar Carlos and bis dwarf; \'erone.*e.
Justice; Kibera, I'hilosopber; K«» (i'oj/iM*, Uiver-scene; llondexoetur, Barnyanl
fowl; Sano di ISetro, Madonna and saints; Itartolodi Fredi (iitb cent.), Altar-
pieco; (/oj/fi. Portrait of the artist's son; Van Santroort, Portrait of a lady.
The paintings of the oarly American School include works by ^Vashin<;t^>^^
AlktoH, ihlhert Stuart, Copley, Trumtmll , Henjamin West ('King I-ear'),
John Siniibert, Win. I'agei, etc. The nnllnlsbed portrait of Washington is one
of the Ibree portraits of Washington painteil by SlJiart from life. Martba
W.i.shinj'.ton and Washington at Dorchester Heights are also by Stuart.
There are many other interesting portraits.
The paintings of tll(^ modern American School include spocimona of
A7i7i»* Vedd«r, Unish , Thayer, Whistler ('Little Hose', 'Tho Blacksmith',
and two others), Winslow Homer, Alerander, Dmnis Bunker, Innets, W. M.
Hunt, Joseph da Caiitp, etc.
The motlorn paintings other than .\morican consist at present chictly
of works of the Karlv Knglisb and the French Schools. Among tbcso are
paintings by I'urnar i^lave ship and another landscape), lieynolds, Lairrence,
Jiichard Wihou, Ct>nsta(>le, Aaltier, John Croine, Charles 7i'. I^slie, Jlaeburn,
John (^pie , Honingtou, Chariiin (siill-life piece), JUiplessis (original portrait
of Kranklin), ('<»;<)/, liegnault, lioiitseau, Troyoii, Ateissonier, Millet ('The
l{<>apers), /></(icr('(.r, 1/ Uerinitte, Ot^rfime ('I'Kmincnce Crise), I)i<u, J^egni,
Monet, Dupre, Decamps, Couture, J)aHliiijny, UcntH Lerolle, Uoii ftoiinat, etc.
- The collection of Water Colours and Drawings includes '21 drawings and
water-colours by ./. /•'. Millet and 11 wati<r-colours by Wm. Blake. — The
Museum possesses about 7l),lHX) h-ints and Prawingi. '
The ' Jllorso Collootion of Japanoso Pottery (illustrntod catalogue
$ '20) is the llnest in e.vistence, and the collections of ./ir/nrfKWtf ^^rrnowr,
I'aintings, l*nntx, Laajuer, Ivory and Wood Carrings, and Metal Works are
also very valuable. - i»tber extensive collections arc those of Majolica,
Fay f nee, Sitrres and h\hilish China, Indian and Me.iican I'ottery, Otrniun and
Vcihelinn Hlass, Chinese and Japanese rorcelain, and Knamels. - - The " Hufl'inn
Collection of Antlur deserves special notice. - The Te.rtil« ('()//iicrto»j5 contain
tapestries Irom Kgypt, Peru, I' rauce, I'landors, China, and Japan, l>rocades,
velvets, and ouibroideries from lOuropo and Asia, laces, and Oriental rugs.
Visitors wishing information about th« collections or desiring to flee
objects not on exhibition are welcome in the offices of the departments.
Cominomotalth Ave. BOSTON. :i I. Route. 267
Tli« Sc/iool of Drawing and Painlini/ connoo.l,«(l with tli(\ Miiaoinu lint
iiboiit '2(50 Htiulouts. — Tim .Art IAt»'(trp oontidna book.M and pliotoKniplm.
Tho *New Old South Church( IM. 11, fi), ao calliMl us tlwi suncdSHor
of tho Old South (Uuirrli ([•. '2(>H), is ii lino builtliii^ in an Italian
Gothic, stylo, with a towor '21Sir,. in holKht. It was built in 1874-75.
The marbles and oniainoiital stoiie-worli are line.
Ainoii^ (tlhor iioU'vvtuthy litiildiiiK'* 'i> Ihi.s piirt of llu< city am Uio
IJoKtou Art Cluh (IM. H, h), al. i\w «*,(tnit\r of Nowliiiry and Darl.moulli S|«.
(pp. 26(1 'if)?) ^ {\w lioiUm AthUtic As»oHatH)u(V\. H, f) •, p. 'if),), Kxi'Lcr Si,. ■, Whs
UnivertUy Club (IM. 21; A, ft), 270 IJoacon St.; {.\u^ t?.>ii<>ial luiilding of lioilon
Unimraily (IM. H, 5; UOO .MtudiMits), at, Mio (■(inicr of l<]x(<l,i>r and Itovl.Hiiiii
Strt. (Law School in AMhl»nTt,i)n IMacc, Divinity School in Mt.. Vi'iiutn St..,
PI. n, 3, i)\ tho First llaplist Church (IM. H, 5), al, tho c.uiK-r of (Man-n-
don St. and (^ininimivvcaitli Ave, (rcntrally Known a.n tho lirattU- J^i/tiartt
Churchy a lino huildint; with a, Kloroiitino towor hy II. II. lliohardMon, c^nl-
l)«llishud with ha.s-roliolH ami tItjnroM of an(,'olH; iln\ (%'utr(it Couifri'j/atiounl
Church (IM. ]{, 5), H.'iUoioy .St., a hoauliful hnlMiiif,', with lln.< ,staln«^d-^;l^l.MS
windovv.s; tho ^ Firsl Vnitarian Church (IM. 11, It fi), UorUih-y St., cor. of
Marlhoronnh St., with tal»ltit,4 In nioniory of it.s fonr I'onndor.M and a,ii old
.silver chalico given by Oovornor Winthrop (ono of tho tonn<lcr,s) in IHII!};
Emmanud Church (IM. M, f)), Nowimry St., llio .scone of the Itov. Dr. Wor-
cester's c.\periinont.s in 'p.iychothorapy^ tlio Normal Art i^chool (IM. M, fi),
at the corner of Nowlmry and I'l.^id.or .St.s. •, tins Horace Mann School for tha
Denf^ Newbnry St. \ the Spiritnol Temple (IM. H, ft), al tho corner of New-
bury ami l<:.\otor .St.s. i The First Church of Christy {<ci,tnti.H (IM. 15, ti, ser-
vices on Son. at 10 An a.m. and 3 p.m., on Wed. at 7.110 p.m.; chiircli
shown to vl.iitoifl on Wed. and Krid. l()-,'», Mvn. lOddy'.n room on same
days 2-4, and after Sun. .services), an unu.snal but imposini-', Imildin^-, with
a lino dome, at the corner of Norway and Kalmimtli St,s. ; and the .1//. \'tTnon
Church (IM, 11; A, 0), with a ^ooil nKinorial window by La Karj-.o, at the
corner of Heucon St. and Massachusutt.s Ave.
Huntington Avonuo ( IM. Ii, 5-7 ), wliicli dlvornc^s to tlm loft from
Hoylstoii St. at (foplcy S(j., also contains iiuiiiy important bnildin/^s.
To the rlf2;ht, a short way boyond tho railway, is tlio lin;;o bnildinji;
of tho MaasackiiHc.tts Vharitahle. Merhttnlr AAnoclaUon.^ usually known
as Mechanics HaU ( IM. U, (>; p. '251')). A litthi way fartlior on, on tho
samo sido, is tlio New Cfnturij ItitUdimj, containinf^ I'otirr Hall
(PI. '25, H (') ; p. '250). A Iso to tlio rif-ht is Chidcerbuj Halt { IM. '.Ml, W (> ;
p. 25(>), with its arcadcul front. Tliis is adjOinod by tho handsonuj
llorticuUural Hail (IM.'21, 11 7; p.^f)!)), at tho coriior of Massae.husotts
Avo. At tho opposito cornor is tlui imposiiiji; Symphony llaU [ IM.'2IJ,
|{ 7; p. '25(1), (uootod in 11)00. At tln^ cornor of (JaiiisboroiiAli St.,
to tho Ic^ft, is tho NcMi Kngiand ('onseriuUorn of Mitslr (VI. H^ IM -^
'2800 ])Upil3), whioli incliidos Jordan. llalL (p. '251')), a, lino c.oncort-
hall. Opposito is tho Cluidrrn'n llosyi.Ud. Kor buildings In tho ox-
tenslon of this stroot, soo p. 'l^)'t^.
*Commonwoalth Avenue ( IM.A, H, 1-0), whieli runs parallol with
Boylston St., is ono of tho llniist riisidtinco-stroots in Amorini, with
itH rows of troos and liandHomo hoiiscis. It is '210 ft. wlihi and is
adornod with statu (;s of ALe.r. llamiiion (IM. II, 4 ; 175'?- 1 SOI ; by
Uimnior), Jo/m (nover[V\. I'., 5; 17:{'2-07; byMilmoro), Witliam Lloyd
QarriHon (PI. 11, 5; 1S05-71); by Wamcw), l.eif ICrir.v.n, tho j.sador
of tho NorH<',inoii who ar«5 sup{)()sod to havo lainiod at Point Allorton
17*
26S Route 31. BOSTON. Back Bay.
(p. 274) in the 11th cent. [PI. A, 6; by Miss Whitney), and
Patrick Collins (PI. A, 6 ; 1844-1905 ; by H. H. and A. R. Kitson).
*Beacon Street (Pi. A-C, 3-6), beginning on Beacon Hill, skirting
the N. side of the Common, and then running parallel with Com-
monwealth Ave., is the aristocratic street of Boston par excellence.
Its back- windows command a fine view of the Charles River. No. 296
was the home of Dr. Oliver Wendell Holmes (1809-94).
A handsome embankment and driveway, with a subway below them
(comp. p. 256), are to be constructed on the river-side of Beacon Street.
The Back Bay (PI. A, B, 4-6), the fashionable W. end district
traversed by the above-named streets, was at the beginning of the
19th century occupied by dreary mud-flats, salt-marshes, and water
(comp. p. 258). The Back Bay Tens (PI. A, 7) have been skilfully
laid out by the late F. L. Olmsted on the site of the unsightly swamps
which formerly lay here and form the first link in the splendid chain
of parks and boulevards, of which Franklin Park is the chief orna-
ment (comp. p. 269). The chief entrances to the Fens are marked
by a Gateway (Westland Ave.) and a Fountain (Hemenway St.); and
at the end of Boylston St. is a fine memorial of John Boyle O'Reilly
(1844-90), by D. C. French. The quarter adjoining the Fens con-
tains various important public and private buildings. Among these
are the Somerset Hotel (p. 254), corner of Commonwealth Ave. and
Charles Gate East; the Massachusetts Historical Society (PL A, 6;,
interesting relics and valuable library), corner of Boylston St. and
the Fenway ; the Boston Medical Library (PI. A, 7), in the Fenway,
adjoining the last. Considerably to the S. of this point, at the corner
of Huntington and Rogers Aves., is the Medical and Dental School of
Tufts College (PU, D 6; p. 312). On the other side of Huntington Ave.,
at the corner of Opera Place, is the new Opera House (PI. B, 7), erected
from designs by Wheelright ^^ Haven. Just beyond this is the New
Museum of Fine Arts (PL I, C 6; comp. p. 265), a large granite
edifice by Guy Lowell (1907-8), admirably adapted for its ends.
Farther out, at the corner of Longwood Ave. , are the extensive new
buildings of the *Harvard Medical School (PL I ; C, 6), erected in
1905-U!07 from the designs ofShepley, Rutan, and Coolidge, at a cost
of $ 5,000,000, and equipped in the most complete and up-to-date
manner. — kX the corner of the Fenway and Worthington St. is
Simmons Hall (PL I; C, 6), a college for women. At the opposite
corner of Worthington St. is —
Fenway Court (PI. I ; C, 6), the residence of Mrs. John L. Gardner^
a building in a Venetian style, enclosing a courtyard and incorporat-
ing many original balconies, windows, and other details brought
from Italy. It contains a choice *Collection of Art, which is open to
the public from time to time (dates and tickets, price $1, obtained
only at Herricks, Copley Sq.). Catalogue 25 c.
Among the most notable works in the collection are the following:
Raphael, 'Portrait of Fedra Inghirami (copy in the Pitti Palace, Florence),
*Pieta (small); Boiiicelii, Death of Lucretia, ''Madonna aux Epis (the 'Chigi
North End BOSTON. 3/. Route. 269
Botticelli'); Tintoretto^ Portrait of a lady (from tlie Chigi Gallery); Titian,
*Eape of Europa, painted for Philip II. of Spain, afterwards in Lord
Darnley's collection at Cobham Hall, and described by Rnbens as 'the first
picture in the worW ; Titian, Anne of Austria and her mother; Paolo Vero-
nese., "^Coronation of Hebe (ceiling-painting); Qiorgione {2,itev Bellini)^ Head of
Christ; Andrea del Sarto (?), Bandinelli, the sculptor; Cellini, Bronze bust
of Bindo Altoviti (from the Palazzo Altoviti at Rome); A. Mantegna (?),
*Madonna and Child, with saints; Fllippo Li'ppi, Madonna and Child; Fra
Angelico, Death and Assumption of the Virgin ; Masaccio., Man s head ; Polla-
j'uolo, Portrait; Fior. di Lorenzo, Annunciation; Pesellino, Love and Death,
Labour and Time (two panels); Moroni, Portrait; Cr>velli, *St. George;
Paris Bordone, Christ in the Temple; Matteo Givitale, Madonna and Child
(terracotta group); Rubens, ** Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel; Rem-
brandt, *Portrait of himself at the age of 22, Storm on the Sea of Galilee,
'Landscape, *Portraits of a husband and wife (1633) ; Van Dyck, So-called
Duchess of Ossuna; Albrecht Diirer, Portrait; Holbein, *Sir William and
Lady Butts; Ant. Moro (Sir Anthony More), *Queen Mary I. of E-igland;
Jan van der Meer, Concert; Terburg, Music-lesson; Schongaiier, Madonna
(copy of the painting at Colmar) ; Degas, 'Woman in black (1867). — The
beautiful 'Centeal Coort also contains many interesting works of art.
*Eranklin Park (PI. I; C, D,8, 9), is 520 acres in extent and lies
in W. Roxbnry (reached by electric car). Its natural beanties were
skilfully taken advantage of by the late Frederick Law Olmsted,
and many of its drives and walks are very beautiful (park-carriages
25 c. each). The park includes a public golf-course, tennis grounds,
a toboggan-chute (in winter), etc. Extensive view from the Overlook.
The Pdblic Park System of Boston is almost unique. The City Park
System, with a total area of 2400 acres, forms an almost unbroken line of
parks and parkways from the Public Garden (p. 260) to City Point, in
Boston Harbour (p. 274). The main units in this system (Franklin Park, etc.)
are mentioned at various pages of the Handbook. The Metropolitan System,
forming an outer line of parks, has an area of 11,000 acres, including
two large wooded reservations (Blue Hills, p. 275, and Middlesex Fells,
p. 275), three beaches (Revere Beach, p. 280, Nantasket Beach, p. 274, and
Lynn Beach, p. 280), and the boating section of the Charles River (comp.
p. 275). When completed this system will afford 50 M, of drives. Comp.
the Map at p. 274.
The North End (PI. B, C, 1, 2) of Boston, embracing the site of
Copp's Hill (p. 257), now one of the poorer districts and occupied
mainly by foreigners , contains some points of considerable his-
torical interest. The Copp's Hill Burial Ground (PI. C, 2; key
kept by sexton; see notice on gate), dating from 1660, contains
the graves of Increase, Cotton, and Samuel Mather (1639-1723,
1663-1728, 1706-85). Adjacent, in Salem St., is Christ Church
(PI. 6, C2; adm., including view from tower, 25c.), the oldest
church now standing in the city (17231, on the steeple of which the
signal-lanterns of Paul Revere are said to have been displayed on
April 18th, 1775, to warn the country of the march of the British
troops to Lexington and Concord (comp. p. 308). Between Copp's Hill
Burial Ground and the river is the small North End Park (PL C, 1).
North Square (PL C, 2) is the centre of what is known as 'Little Italy'.
The House of Paul Revere (see above and p. 259) has recently been
restored and contains some relics.
Boston has long been famous for its Charitable Institutions. The
-Perkins Institution for the Blind (PI. I; G, 6), in South Boston (p. 257),
210 Route 31. CAMBRIDGE. Harvard
associated with the names of Laura Bridgman and Helen Keller, is one of
the best-known of these and has a large library of raised-letter books (visitors
admitted on Thurs. at 11 a.m.; 15 c). Others are the Massachusetts General
Hospital (PL B, 3); the New England Women'' s Hospital (PI. I; C, 8) in Rox-
burv, entirely managed by women; the Eye d- Ear Infirmary (PI. B, 3); the
Old Ladies' Home (PI. B, 4) ; the City Hospital (PI. D , 7) ; the Children's Hospital
(p. 267) ; the Carney Hospital (PI. I; G, 6), in South Boston ; the Kindergarten
for the Blind, in Jamaica Plain (p. 274); and the Homeopathic Hospital
(PI. 12; D, 1). The Criminal and Reformatory Institutions are mainly on the
harbour-islands (p. 274) or in S. Boston.
Among other points of interest in Boston proper are the Cathedral of
the Holy Cross (R. C. ; PI. D, 6), a large edifice in Washington St. (365 ft.
long), in front of which is a Statue of Columbus (1892) ; the Church of the
Immaculate Conception (PI. 13; D, 7), Harrison Ave. (good music); the
Church of t?ie Advent (PI. i;B,i), Brimmer St. (high-church Epis.: good music);
the Boys' English High d: Latin School (PI. 4; C,6), between Montgomery St.
and Warren Ave. (the oldest school in the United States, dating from 1635) ;
the Girls' High <k Latin School (PI. 10; C, 6), W. Newton St. ; the Armoury of
the First Corps of Cadets (PI. C, 5); the Tremont Building, at the corner of
Beacon and Tremont Sts. (view from upper stories); the Youth's Companion
Building (PL 22; C, 5), at the corner of Columbus Ave. and Berkeley St.;
the Franklin Union (PL C, 5), for industrial education (1908)); the Fope
Manufacturing Co. 's Building (PL 17; C, 5), adjoining the last; the Masonic
Temple (1898), at the corner of Tremont and Boylston Sts. (PL C, 4) ; the
Tremont Temple (PL C, 3), with its curious facade and a large hall used as
a free Baptist church and for other purposes ; the Charleshank (PL A, B, 2, 3),
a small park, with open-air gymnasia and playgrounds; and the Marine Park
(PL I; H,6) at South Boston (band on Sun. evening in summer), with a statue
of Adm. Farragut (by H. H. Kitson), public bath-houses, and two large piers,
one of which leads 'to Castle Island (p. 274). A tablet on a building at the
corner of Pearl St. and Atlantic Ave. (PL D, 3) marks the site of Griffin's
Wharf, the scene of the Boston tea-party (p. 268). The statues not yet
mentioned include those of Samuel Adams (p. 259), by Miss Whitney, in
Adams Sq. (PL C, 3); Gov. Winthrop (p. 258), at the corner of Berkeley and
Marlborough Sts. (PL B, 5), by Greenough; and small figures of Columbus
and Aristides in Louisburg Sq. (PL B, 4). It may be added that A. Branson
Alcott and Louisa M. Alcott died at No. 10 Louisburg Sq. (1S88), that Jenny
Lind was married at No. 20 (1852), and that W. D. Howellt lived at No. 4.
Cambridge (no good hotels; Washington Court Cafe, Brattle
St., not far from Harvard Sq., L. 50c., D. 75 c.), an academic
city witli (1905) 97,434 inhat., lies on tlie N. tank of the Charles
River, opposite Boston, with which it is connected by severalhridges
traversed by electric tramways. It was founded as the fortified 'Newe
Towne' in 1630-31, and received its present name in 1638. The
road between Watertown and Charlestown is older than the town and
was probably laid ont over an Indian trail. The interest of Cambridge
centres in the fact that it is the seat of *Harvard TJniversity, the
oldest and most famous of American seats of learning. Harvard
Squarb (PI. B, C, 3), adjoining the University Yard, is the chief
intersection-point of the tramway-lines and the focus of the city's
activity.
Harvard College was founded by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts
in 1636, and received in 1638 a legacy of about SQOl. from the Rev. John
Harvard, a graduate of Emmanuel College, Cambridge. Its growth through
public fostering and private endowment has been continuous ; and it is
now attended by about 6000 students, taught by 550 professors and in-
structors. The faculty of Arts and Sciences includes Harvard College
proper, or the academic department (2700 students), the Lawrence Scientific
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University. CAMBRIDGE, 31. Route. 271
School (science, mining, engineering), and the Graduate School. The Pro-
fessional Schools embrace divinity, law, medicine, dentistry, veterinary
medicine, and agriculture. The list of distinguished alumni includes the
names of John Adams (class of 1755), John Quincy Adams (1787), W. E.
Channing (1798), Edward Everett (1811), W. H. Prescott (1814), George
Bancroft (1817), R. W. Emerson (1821), 0. W. Holmes (a native of Cam-
bridge; 1829), Sumner (1830), Motley (1831), Lowell (a native of Cam-
bridge; 1838), E. E. Hale (1839), and Thoreau (1837). Among its presidents
and professors have been Josiah Quincy, Edward Everett, Jared Sparks,
Joseph Story, Asa Gray, Jeffries Wyman, Benj. Peirce, Agassiz, Long-
fellow, Holmes, Charles Norton, and Lowell.
The main buUdiDgs of the University (comp. inset-plan) are gronp-
ednear the centre of old Cambridge, about 31/2 M. from Boston, and
enclose two spacious quadrangles, shaded by fine elms. The so-called
'Yard' has two main entrances, with gates erected in 1890 (W. end)
and 1891. Among the buildings are University Hall (1815 ; by Bul-
flnch, p. 260), with the college-offices; Massachusetts Hall (1720),
the oldest college building now standing ; Harvard Hall (1766) ;
Oore Hall (1841), with the University Library (650,000 vols. ; numer-
ous interesting relics and autographs) ; the Boylston Chemical Labo-
ratory ; * Sever Hall (1880 ; by H. H. Richardson) ; Robinson Hall, the
architectural school; Emerson Hall, for the philosophical depart-
ment ; Appleton Chapel; the tiny and outgrown Holden Chapel (1744) ;
the Phillips Brooks Memorial House (1898); and several dormitory
buildings {Hollis, Stoughton, Holworthy, Thayer, Weld, Oray's, Mat-
thews, etc.). Wadsworth House, the unpretending wooden building
inthe S.W. corner of the Yard, was long the residence of the Presi-
dents of the University. — On the N. side of the Yard, facing Cam-
bridge St., is the Fogg Art Museum, open daily, 9-5, on Sun. 1-5,
which includes admirable synoptical working collections of engrav-
ings, casts, photographs, and drawings (several by Turner); a small
but choice collection of bronzes, vases, and coins (small room on
groundfloor) ; a few excellent early- Italian paintings (upstairs), in-
cluding examples of Benvenuto da Siena, Pinturicchio, and Giov.
Bellini (?); and a few antiques, among which are a fine *Torso of
Meleager (early 4th cent. B. C.) and a headless torso of Aphrodite
(Greek, groundfloor, near the staircase). — In the small triangle at
the function of Broadway and Cambridge St. stands the *Germanic
Museum (PLC, 3; Mon., Frid., & Sat. 9-3.30, Sun. 1-5), containing
casts of typical German sculptural monuments, largely the gift of
the German Emperor, and reproductions of representative German
gold and silver plate, given by leading German citizens. See
'Handbook of the Museum' by the curator, Prof. Kuno Francke. —
On the other side of Cambridge St. is Memorial Hall (PI. C, 3),
by Ware and Van Brunt, erected in memory of the members of
the University who feU in the Civil War. It includes a Vestibule,
with tablets of marble bearing the names of the fallen ; the Sanders
Theatre, in which the graduation ceremonies are held, with a statue
of President Josiah Quincy (1772-1864), by W. W. Story; and a
large Hall, containing numerous interesting portraits and stained-
272 Route 31. CAMBRIDGE. Common.
glass windows, aud used daily as a diniiig-hall by 1000 students
(other accommodation for students in the Randall Dining Hall,
Divinity Ave.). To the W. of the huilding is a modern ideal Statue
of John Harvard (1607-38), by D. C. French. — In Kirkland St.,
immediately to the N. of Memorial Hall, stands the New Lecture
Hall (PI. C, 2). — We now follow Kirkland St. to the E. and then
Divinity Ave. to the left. In the latter, to the left, is the main
building of the University Museum (PL C, 2; open daily, 9-5;
Director, Prof. Alex. Agassiz) , containing valuable collections of
comparative zoology (including a stuffed okapi), botany, mineralogy,
and geology. The Glass Flowers in the Botanical Section (W. wing,
2nd floor), made by the Blaschkas of Hosterwitz (near Dresden),
are so perfect as to stand the test of a microscope. The Anthropo-
logical Section occupies an adjoining but separate building known
as the Peahody Museum (PI. 6 ; C, 2). On the other side of Divinity
Ave. is the Semitic Museum (PI. D, 2), with Assyrian, Babylonian,
Egyptian, Palestinian, Syrian, Persian, and Phoenician collections.
Opposite the Museums are the Divinity Hall and the Divinity Library
(PI. C, 2). The Lawrence Scientific School (PL C, 2, 3; p. 270), the
Hemenway Gymnasium (PL C, 2, 3), the Jefferson Physical Laborat-
ory (PL C, 2), the Rotch Laboratory (PL 7; C, 2), Hastings Hall
(PL B, 2 ; a dormitory), * Austin Hall (PL B, C, 2; by H. H. Richard-
son), and Langdell Hall (PL B, C, 2; 1907; these two belonging
to the Law School), all lie to the W. of Memorial Hall.
The Bota7iic Garden (PI. A, i) and the admirable Observatory (PI. A, 1)
are 3/4 M. to the :N^.W. Pierce Hall, Perkins Sail, and Conani Hall (PI. C, 2),
three dormitories, stand to the N. and W. of the Museums. — At the
corner of Massachusetts Ave. and Quincy St. stands the building of the Har-
vard Union (comp. inset), a club for graduates and undergraduates, the
gift of Mr. H. L. Higsinson, containing a fine portrait of the donor
and a less successful one of President Eliot, both by Sargent. To the
S. of this point are Claverly ^ Randolph, and Westmorly Halls (PI- C, 4),
three luxurious dormitories. — The chief Athletic Ground of Harvard is
the Soldiers' Field (PI. A, 5), on the S. bank of the Charles, with the Carey
Athletic Building, the Locker Building, and the Stadium, built of concrete,
accommodating 27,000 spectators, and equalling the Roman Colosseum in
circumference. The University Boat House (PI. A, 4) lies on the S. bank of
the Charles, and the Weld Boat Club (PI. B, 4, 5), on the opposite bank, is
also used by the students. — The buildings of the Medical, Dental, and
Veterinary Schools are in Boston (comp. p. 268), and the School of Agriculture
d: Horticulture, known as the Bussey Institution (PI. I ; B, 9), with an arboretum
and laboratories, is at Jamaica Plain (p. 274).
The Common (PL B, 2, 3), to the W. of the University build-
ings, contains a Soldiers' Monument (PI. 9) and statues of John Bridge
(PL 4; 1578-1665), the Puritan, and Charles Sumner (PI. 6; 1811-74).
Near its N.W. angle is the venerable Washington Elm (PL 10),
under which "Washington assumed command of the American army on
July 3rd, 1775. To the S. of the Elm is Radcliffe College (PL B, 3),
for women, named in honour of the Englishwoman Anne Radcliffe
(Lady Moulson), the first woman to give a scholarship to Harvard
(1640). Here about 470 young women receive instruction from
Bunker Hill Mon. CHARLESTOWN 31. Route. 273
Harvard professors and are granted the degrees of A, B. and A. M.,
countersigned "by the President of Harvard University. Adjacent is
the Shepard Memorial Church (PI. 8). To the "W. of this is the Epis-
copal Theological School (PL A, 2, 3), with St. John's Memorial Chapel.
— Opposite the S. end of the Common stand the First Parish Church
(PI. B, 3), with a Gothic steeple, and Christ Church, "bnilt of materials
"brought from England and containing a fine set of chimes. Between
them is the bnrying-ground of the old town.
'Like Sentinel and Nun, they keep
'Their vigil on the green;
'One seems to guard, and one to vreep
_^ 'The dead that lie between'. (0. W. Holmes.)
A little to the W. of the Epis. Theological School, in Biattle St.,
facing towards the Charles River, is *Craigie House (PI. A, 2), built
in 1759 by Col. Vassall and occupied by Washington in 1775-76,
but vanning its chief interest from the fact that it was the home of
Eerhry W. Longfellow from 1837 till his death in 1882 (open to
visitors on Sat., 2-4 p.m.). It contains many interesting relics of
the poet. In Elmwood Ave. , which leads to the left from Brattle
St. farther on, is Elmwood, the home of James Russell Lowell
(1819-91), adjoined by a small public park.
Following Brattle St. or Mt. Auburn St. for about 1 M. (electric
car on the latter), we reach *Mt. Auburn Cemetery, which is beau-
tifully laid out and contains the graves of Longfellow, Lowell, Sum-
ner, Everett, Josiah Quincy, Rufus Choate, Channing, Motley, Agas-
siz, Prescott, Phillips Brooks, Oliver Wendell Holmes, and many
other distinguished men. *View of Boston from the tower on the
highest point. The Chapel contains some interesting statues.
Among the other important buildings of Cambridge are the Cify Hall
(PI. 1 5 B, 3), Massachusetts Ave., designed by A. W. Longfellow; the Public
Library (Tl. D, 3) , at the corner of Broadway and Irving St. ; and the
Manual Training School, opposite the last — all three presented to the city
by Mr. F. H. Rindge, a native of Cambridge. The Epworth Methodist Church
(PI. B, 2), to the N. of Austin Hall, the Riverside Press, and the University
Press may also be noted. At Camhridgeport are the famous telescope-
makers, Alvan Clark dt Co. The total value of the industrial products of
Cambridge in 1905 was $ 42,407,064. — The Charles River Speedway, on the
S. bank of the Charles River, near the Soldiers' Field (p. 272), is much
frequented for driving and sleighing. — At No. 21 Sacramento St. (PI. C, 1)
is the finest Wistaria in the country. — Arthur Hugh Clough (1819-61) lived
for some time in Appian Way (Pi. B, 3), at the house now numbered fifteen.
Charlestown (PI. A,B,1), on the left bank of the Charles River,
settled in 1629 and containing ca. 40,000 inhab., is now incorporated
with Boston, with which it is connected by railway and other bridges.
The most prominent feature of Charlestown is the Bunker Hill
Monument (PI. A, 1), a granite obelisk 221 ft. high (294 steps),
erected in 1825-42 to commemorate the battle of Bunker or (more
properly) Breed's Hill (June 17th, 1775). The *View from the top
(adm. 20 c.) includes Boston , Boston Harbour, the Charles and
Mystic Rivers Cambridge, the Blue Hills, etc. Adjacent is a bronze
274 Route 31. BROOKLINE.
statue of Col. Frescott, by Story, and in the bnilding at the base
of tbe monnment is one of Gen. Warren (killed in the battle).
The British troops under Lord Howe were checked on their first two
assaults on the hill occupied by the American troops, but on the third
attempt they drove the Americans from their entrenchments and took posses-
sion of the hill. Washington then advanced on Boston and after a siege
of nine months compelled the British to evacuate the city (comp. p. 258).
Charlestown also contains a Navy Yard (Fl.B, 1 ; 87 acres 5 open
9-4) , a Soldiers^ Monument^ a Monument to John Harvard (p. 270 ;
in the old burial - gronnd), and the First Parish Congregational
Church, of which he was pastor. A house in Main St., near Thomp-
son Sq. (p. 255; PI. 11, Al), is marked as the birthplace of Samuel
Morse (1791-1872; comp. pp. Ixxxii, 78, 236), inventor of the
electric telegraph. — In the White Star Line dock lies the old
frigate 'Constitution', the victor in the famous fight with the British
'Guerriere' (Aug. 19th, 1812).
The attractive Environs of Boston afford opportunity for many plea-
sant excursions (numerous historical points now m^arked by tablets). The
*Harhour, dotted with numerous islands, is about 15 M. long from N. to
S. and 8 M. wide from E. to W. and has a minimum depth of 23 ft. at low
water. The Main Ship Channel, or entrance to the harbour, is between Point
Alkrton on the S. and the Brewsters, with Boston Light, on the N. Steamers
ply regularly from Rowe's^ Forster''s, and India Wharves (PI. D, 2) to the
favourite resorts. Among these are Hull (The Pemberton, $4 ; Nautilus Inn,
from $ 2V2 s Eenhei'ma Inn), with the headquarters of the Hull Tacht Club ;
Bingham (see p. 275); and Nantasket Beach {Rockland Ho-, $4; Atlantic
House, $3-4V2; Pacific, $3), a fine strip of beach, 5 M. in length, which
offers a scene of great animation on Sundays and holidays. Paragon Park is
full of Coney Island amusements. A narrow-gauge electric railway runs
from Hull along Nantasket Beach to Nantasket Junction (p. 276). Among the
chief islands in the harbour are Castle Island (p. 270), with the old Fort
Independence; Governor''s Island, with Fort Winthrop ; Deer Island, with
the House of Industry; Long Island, with the City Poorhouses; and George's
Island, with the strong Fort Warren. The lights and beacons include
Deer Island Light, Long Island Light, Nix's Mate, Bug Light, and Boston
Light., at the entrance to the Harbour.
Steamers also ply regularly in summer to Nahant(p. 280; 25 c), while
excursion-trips are made to the North Shore (p. 282), Provincetown (p. 279),
Plymouth (p. 276), and other points in Massachusetts Bay.
The most beautiful of the suburban neighbours of Boston is *Brookline
(PI. I: A, B, 5-7), which lies to the SW. of the city and contains many hand-
some residences embowered in trees. It is connected with Boston by
railway and electric tramway. The charming grounds of Holm Lea. the
home of Prof. C. S. Sargent, the well-known arboriculturist, are open to the
public for two advertised days in Jane (fine show of azaleas and rhododen-
drons). — In Chestnut Hill., to the W. of Brookline, is the home of Mrs.
Mary Baker Eddy. The drive round the large Chestnut Hill Reservoir is a
favourite one from Boston. — To the S. of Brookline lies Jamaica Plain
(PI. I ; A, B, 8, 9), with Jamaica Park, Jamaica Pond (on the W. bank, the
home of the late Francis Parkman, the historian), and the Arnold Arbo-
retum , one of the finest institutions of the kind in the world (fine hemlock
wood at its S. end; view from the central hiU). Mrs. Quincy A. Shaw,
Perkins St., Jamaica Plain, possesses the richest and choicest ''Col lection in
existence of works by J. F. Millet, Rousseau, Troyon, Corot, Daubigny, and
other masters of the Barbison school (adm. on personal introduction only).
Among other works of art in the same collection are paintings by Rem-
brandt (two heads), Potter, Frans Hals, Francia, '''Tintoretto , a.nd. ^ Mainardi ;
a ^Madonna by Luca della Robbia; and a marble relief and a *Bu8t of
Lorenzo de"" Medici, by Verrocchio. — A little farther to the S. is the pretty
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HINGHAM. 32. Route. 275
'■'Forest Hills Cemetery (PI. I; B, C, 9), with a fine monument to the sculptor
Martin Milmore, by D. C. French (relief of Death staying the sculptor's
hand). The cemetery abuts on Franklin Park (see p. 269). All these places
may be easily combined in one afternoon's drive and are accessible by
electric car. — The Martin Luther Orphan Some, in the district of West
Roxbury, occupies the Brook Farm, where a small group of cultivated
people, led by George Ripley, made their famous attempt to found a
socialistic community (1841-47). Hawthorne, Margaret Fuller, and Channing
were among those connected with this experiment. The home and church
of Theodore Parker (1810-60) were in W. Roxbury, and there is a bronze
statue of him in Centre St. — Chelsea (PI. I ; G, H, 1), to the N. of E.
Boston, on the Mystic River, contains a Soldiers' Monument, a Soldiers'
Home, a Marine Hospital, a Naval Hospital, and well-known Art-Tile
Works. Half of it was burned down in 1908. — Those who are fond of
rowing and canoeing should go by the Boston <fe Albany R. R. or by electric
car to (11 M.) Riverside (boat-houses, etc.), situated on a lovely reach of the
Charles River. On the edge of the river is Norumhega Park., a pleasure-
resort with a restaurant, theatre, concerts, electrical fountain , boat-house,
menagerie, and other attractions (adm. 10 c. ; return- ticket by Common-
wealth Ave. Street Railway, from Newton Boulevard, incl. adm., 15c.).
On the river-bank, about 1 M. below, is a tower erected by Prof. Horsford
on what he believed to be the site of the ancient Norurnbega.
Other favourite resorts within easy reach of Boston are Newton (p. 241);
the Blue or Milton Hills (views), 8 M. to the S. (comp. p. 245); Revere Beach
(p. 280); Arlington Heights (360 ft.; view; Robbins Springs Hotel), reach-
ed by train from Boston or by electric car via Cambridge ; Waverley (reach-
ed by electric car or railway), about 3 M. to the W. of Cambridge, with the
picturesque Beaver Brook and Waverley Oaks Reservation (fine trees) ; and
the Middlesex Fells (p. 285). Longer excursions may be made to Concord
(p. 30G) and Lexington (p. 308), Providence (p. 243), Newport (p. 248), etc.
From Boston to New York^ see R. 30: to Portland^ see R. 35; to the
White Mts., see p. 320; to Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket^ see R. 38; to
Plymouth, see R. 32 ; to Cape Cod, see R. 34 ; to Campohello and Grand Manan,
see R. 40; to Albany, see R. 44; to Canada, see R. 42.
32. From Boston to Plymouth.
Comp. Map, p. 232.
a. Vifi, Whitman.
37 M. Old Colony System of N. Y. N. H. & H. R. R. (South Union
Station) in 1-1 1/2 hr. (fare 75 c. ; return-ticket, good by either route, $ 1V2)-
From Boston to (11 M.) South Braintree, see p. 253. 15 M.
South Weymouth; 19 M. Abington. From (21 M.) Whitman a branch-
line runs to (7'M..')Bridgewater (p. 278). 30 M. Plympton, at the S.
end of Silver Lake; 33 M. Kingston. The monument at Dnxhury
(p. 276) is now seen to the left, as the train skirts Plymouth Bay.
37 M. Plymouth, see p. 276.
b. Via South Shore.
46 M. Old Colony System of N. Y. N. H. & H. R. R (South Union
Station) in 13/4-2 hrs. (fares as above).
From Boston to (10 M.) Braintree, see p. 253. Our train turns
to the left (E.). 12 M. Weymouth. — 17 M. Hingham (Gushing Ho.,
$3), a quaint village on Boston Harbour, settled in 1635, with the
oldest occupied church in New England (1681). In the graveyard
276 Route 32. PLYMOUTH.
(*View) is the grave of J. A. Andrew (d, 1867), the famous 'War
Grovernor' of Massachusetts, marked "by a statne. — From (18 M.)
Nantasket Junction a "branch-line runs to Nantasket Beach and Hull
(see p. 274). — 22 M. Cohasset (Black Rock Ho., on the Jerusalem
Road, from $ 3), a delightful shore-resort, with numerous fine villas
lining the Jerusalem Road. About 4 M. offshore is the Minofs
Ledge Lighthouse (often visited from Cohasset Harbor). — 27 M.
Scituate (The Cliff), an old fishing village, frequented for sea-bathing,
was the birthplace of Samuel Woodworth (1785-1842), author of
'The Old Oaken Bucket'. — 34 M. Marshfield (Brant Rock Ho.,
$ 2-3) was the home of Daniel Webster, where he died in 1852. —
38 M. Duxhury (Duxbury Inn, $ 2; Myles Standish Ho., at S. Dux-
bury, frequented by automobilists, $ 3-5) was the home of John
Alden and Miles Standish, and a monument 110 ft. high, sur-
mounted by a statue, has heen erected near the site of the latter's
house. — 42M. Kingston, and thence to (46 M.) Plymouth, see p. 275.
Plymouth. {Samoset Ho., $2V2-4; Plymouth Rock Ho., plain,
$ 2; Hotel Pilgrim, $ 3-4, 3 M. to the S.E., reached by electric car),
an industrial village and summer - resort with (1905) 11,119 in-
hab., lies on the sheltered bay of the same name, opening off the W.
side of the larger Cape Cod Bay (p. 279). It is of abiding interest
as the landing-place of the Pilgrim Fathers (Dec. 21st, 1620) and
the site of the first settlement in New England.
On leaving the railway-station we proceed to theW. to Court St.,
which we follow to the left. At the comer of Chilton St., to the left,
is *PiLGB,iM Hall (open daily; 25 c.), containing numerous interest-
ing relics of the Pilgrims, paintings of their embarkation and land-
ing, old portraits, etc. — Farther on, to the right, at the comer of
Russell St., is the Court House. North St., to the left, leads to the
so-called Plymouth Rock, a granite boulder enclosed by a railing
and covered with a canopy. This, however, is only a fragment (broken
off in 1774) of the flat rock where the Pilgrims landed, which lies
nearer the sea and is now covered by a wharf. Cole's Hill, opposite
the rock, was the burial-place of the early settlers (1620-21), and
some human bones found here are now preserved in a chamber
in the canopy over the enclosed fragment.
We now follow Water Street to Leyden Street, which we ascend
to the right, passing (left) the site of the first house. On reaching
Town Square we ascend by the path to the right to the ancient
*BuBiAL Hill, with the graves of many of the early settlers, includ-
ing Gov. Bradford (comp. p. 261).
A fortified church was erected here in 1622. The *View embraces
Plymouth Bay, with the Gurnet Lighthouse; Duxbury, with its monument
(see above); Cape Cod; the Pilgrim Monument (see below); the Manomet
Hills (to the S.), etc. — To the S. is Watson's Hill, where the Pilgrims
made a treaty with Massasoit in 1621.
We may now descend on the N.W. side of Burial Hill and
follow Allerton Street to the N. to (V* hr.) the National Monument
WOOD'S HOLE. 33. Route. 277
TO THE Pelgbims (1888), consisting of a granite pedestal 45 ft. Mgh,
snimonnted by a figure of Faith, 36 ft. high, and surrounded by
seated figures, 20 ft. high, representing Law, Morality, Freedom,
and Education. It is about 1/4 ^' from the railway-station, which
we regain by following Cushman St. to the E.
The 'Environs of Plymouth contain hundreds of small lakes and
ponds, of which BilUngton Sea is the largest. Large quantities of the
trailing arbutus or mayflower (Epigaea repens) are found here in spring.
Near Billington Sea is the pretty Morton Park. — Manomet Bluffs (Ardmore
Inn, $ 23/4), to the S.E. of Plymouth, are frequented in summer.
33. From Boston to Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket.
Comp. Map^ p. 232.
Old Colont System of N. Y. N. H. & H. R. R. to (72 M.) Wood's Hole
in 2V4-3 hrs.; Steamek thence to Cottage City in 3/4 lu. (through - fare
$ 1.95, return-fare $3), to Nantucket in 8-872 hrs. (through - fare $2.75,
return-fare $ 4). — An alternative route (same fares) is by train to (IV2-
13/4 hr.) New Bedford (p. 279) and thence by steamer (2 and 4V2-5 hrs.).
From Boston to (55 M.) Buzzard's Bay., see R. 34. — The train
here diverges to the right from the line to Provincetown and runs
to the S. along the shore oi Buzzard' s Bay . 57 M. Monument Beach ;
59 M. Pocasset; 68 M. Falmouth, for Falmouth Heights (Cleve-
land, $4-5; Vineyard Sound Ho., $3), Quisset (21/2 M. ; Quisset
Harbor Ho., $3). and (3V2 M.) Menauhant (Menauhant Hotel, $ 3).
72 M. Wood's Hole i^The Breakwater, $ 31/2; Dexter Ho., $ 21/2;
Avery, $2) is a small maritime village with a Marine Biological
Laboratory and a station of the U. S. Fish Commission, which attract
many naturalists and students in the summer months. It is reached
from New York via Fall River. *Miss Fay's Rose Garden ('New
Foresf), 3 acres in extent, is open to the public in the blossoming
season (last two weeks in June, and first week in July) and brings
hundreds of visitors. Steamers ply hence at frequent intervals to
(7 M.) Cottage City, on Martha's Vineyard.
Martha's Vineyard is an island off the S. coast of Massachusetts,
23 M. long and 10 M. across at its widest part. Its inhabitants
(4551 in 1905) were formerly occupied in the whale-fisheries, but now
owe most of their prosperity to the summer- visitors. The chief resort
of the island is Cottage City or Oak Bluffs {Sea View , $ 21/2"^ j
Naumkeag, Pawnee, WesZey, $21/2-3^2? Island Ho., Frcwier, $2-3),
pleasantly situated on the N.E. side of the island and said to con-
tain 1200 'cottages'. At the large Camp Meeting Grounds 20,000
Methodists assemble every August. An electric railway runs to the
S. to (5 M.) Edgartown (Harbor View Ho., $ 31/2; coach to this
point; good road) and (8 M.) Katama (Mattakeset Lodge) ; and there
are also summer-settlements at Vineyard Haven (Rudder Grange,
from $ 2^2; Mansion Ho., $2), with a fine harbour, and West Chop
(The Cedars, $ 3 ; West Chop Inn, $ 2-2V2)- * Gay Head, the W. ex-
tremity of the island, commands a fine view; the cliffs, recalling
278 Route 33. NANTUCKET.
Alum Bay in the Isle of Wight, are 200 ft. high (lighthouse). Part
of this end of the island is reserved for the remnant of the Indian
inhabitants.
Steamers ply daily from Cottage City to Nantucket (see below) and
New Bedford (p. 279) and weekly to Portland (p. 287) and New York (p. 10).
The sandy, treeless island of Nantucket, with (1905) 2930 in-
hah., lies 12-15 M. to the E. of Martha's Yineyard, hut the steam-
boat course from Cottage City to the quaint town of Nantucket
[Sea Cliff Inn, $ 3-4; Ocean Ho., Holiday Inn, Veranda Ho., $272"
3^2 ; Point Breeze, $ 2-3), on the N. side of the island, is about 26 M.
Nantucket, like Martha's Vineyard, was once a great whaling-place,
but now depends mainly on fishing, farming, and summer-yisitors.
The Athenaeum contains a collection of curios from all parts of the
globe. In 1908 an Observatory was opened here in memory of
Maria Mitchell (1818-89), the astronomer, a native of Nantucket.
A narrow-gauge railway runs to (10 M.) Siasconset (pron. 'Sconset' ;
Ocean View Ho., $ 3 • Beach Ho., $ 2-3), at the E. end of the island
(round trip 80 c). The Wireless Telegraph Station here receives the
earliest news of steamers from Europe and passes it on to the
mainland (comp. p. 2). Just outside Siasconset is a cranberry bog
500 acres in extent (comp. p. 279). Sankaty Head (90 ft.), 1 M. to
the N. of Siasconset, bears a lighthouse (fine ocean- view). At
Surfside [Surf Side Ho., $4), 3M. to the S. of Nantucket, a splendid
surf rolls in after a storm.
Both Martha's Vineyard and Xantucket were settled in the 17th cent,
and possess buildings and relics of considerable historical interest. Nantucket,
in particular, is very quaint and picturesque.
34. From Boston to Provincetown.
Cape Cod.
Comp. Map, p. 232.
120 M. Old Colony System of N. Y. N. H. & H. R. E. (South Union
Station) in 41/4 hrs. (fare $ 2.40). — Steamers also ply daily to Province-
town in summer from Battery Wharf {^ M., in 4 hrs.; return-fare $1).
From Boston to (11 M.) South Braintree, see p. 253. 20 M.
Brockton, an industrial city with (1905) 47,794 inhab. ; 27 M. Bridge-
water, a pleasant village, with (1905) 6754 inhab., a large State
Normal School , foundries, and Iron-works. — 35 M. MiddleborOj
a manufacturing town with (1905) 6888 inhab., is the junction of
lines to Fall River and Newport (see p. 253), etc. — From (46 M.)
Tremont a branch-line runs, via Marion and Mattapoisett (two
pleasant little summer- resorts), to (15 M.) Fairhaven [*Tahitha
Inn, open all the year round, $ 4-5), opposite New Bedford (ferry).
Owing largely to the liberality of Mr. Henry H. Rogers, a native of
the place, Fairhaven is quite a model little town (4000 inhab.),
and its Public Library, Town Hallj Unitarian Church, and High
PROVINCETOWN. 34. Route. 279
School are interesting examples of modern bnil dings in various
styles of arcMtectnre.
New Bedford {Parker Ho.^ $3-4; Mansion Ho., $2), a pleasant little
city at the mouth of the Acushnet, was formerly an important whaling port-
and is now a busy centre of the manufacture of cotton (2,000,000 spindles ;
products valued at $29,469,349 in 1905). Pop. (1905) 74,c5b2. It contains
many fine old mansions and substantial public buildings. Many dismantled
whalers still lie in the harbour, and the town still carries on a trade in
whalebone. A beautiful drive runs round Clark'' s Faint, with Fort Taher
(good sea-views). — New Bedford is reached direct from Boston by rail-
way (56 M.) in 11/2-1^4 tr. (fare $ 1.35) and from New York (in summer)
by daily steamer in 12 hrs. Steamers run from New Bedford to Wood's
Hole, Martha's Vineyard, and Nantucket (pp. 277, 278).
From Tremont our train now runs to the E. 49 M. Wareham.
51 M. Onset Junction, for the line to (IV2 ^0 Onset Bay, a seaside
resort. 55 M. Buzzard^ s Bay (Parker Ho., $ 2], near which is Grey
Gables , the seaside home of the late President Cleveland (d. 1908),
is the junction of the line to Wood's Hole (see R. 33).
At Buzzard's Bay begins Cape Cod , which stretches hence
towards the E. for 35 M. and then to the N. and N.W. for
30 M. more.
The Cape gradually tapers in width from 10 M. to about 1 M. and
consists almost entirely of sand, with few rocks or large trees. It en-
closes Cape God Bap (comp. p. 276 and see Map). The inhabitants, gen-
uine descendants of the Pilgrims, are still very quaint and primitive in
many of their ways. They form excellent seamen. The Cranberry Bogs
produce one of the most lucrative crops of the Cape, and the scene at
the cranberry harvest (Sept. -Oct.) is not unlike hop-picking in England.
Fast pickers can earn $ 4-5 a day at the rate of 10 c, per 'measure' of
6 quarts. Some use an ingenious picking-machine.
62 M. Sandwich. Joseph Jefferson (d. 1905), the actor, is buried
here in Bay View Cemetery (grave marked by a large boulder).
Near Sandwich is part of the excavations for the proposed Cape
Cod Canal. — 69 M. West Barnstable, station for (6 M.) Osterville
(East Bay Lodge ; West Bay Inn), a sea-bathing resort on the S.
shore of the Cape. 73 M. Barnstable (*BarnstabIe Inn) ; 76 M. Yar-
mout h, junction of a line to (3 M.) Hyannis and (41/2 M.) Hyannis
Harbor. 85 M. Harwich (Belmont, $ 3; Wayside Inn, $ 2-3, both
at "West Harwich) , is the junction of a branch to (7 M.) Chatham,
whence stages run to Chatham Beach (Mattaquason, $3). The line
now turns to the left (N.). 89 M. Brewster; 94 M. Orleans; 97 M.
Eastham; 106 M. Wellfleet [Cheq^uesset Inn, from $ 21/2) ; 111 M.
Truro, with a dangerous beach guarded by Highland Light.
120 M. Provincetown (^Central Ho., $21/2; Gifford Ho., Pil-
grim Ho., $2) is a quaint old fishing-town (cod and mackerel) with
(1905) 4362 inhab. and a fine land-locked harbour formed by the
final crook of Cape Cod. The town-crier is still an institution here.
The Mayflower anchored here on Nov. 11th, 1620, and this event
is commemorated by a monument (1908) on Town or High Pole Hill
(good view), modelled (somewhat strangely) on the tower of the
Palazzo Pubblico at Siena. There is a lighthouse on Race Point.
280
35. From Boston to Portland.
Comp. Maps, pp. 274, 232.
a. By the Eastern Division of the Boston and Maine Railroad.
115 M. Railway in 3-4V2 hrs. (fare $ 2V2: parlor-car 60 c.)- This line
runs near the E. coaat of Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Maine, af-
fording frequent views of the ocean (seats to the right). Beyond Portland
it runs on to (244 M.) Bangor and (450 M.) St. John (Canada); comp. B-. 36a.
— Steamers from Boston to Portland, see p. 287.
Leaving tlie N. Union Station (p. 253), we cross the Charles River.
To the right lies Charlestown , with the Bunker Hill Monnnient
(p. 273). At Prison Point we see the State Prison to the right. In
Somerville, ahout 1 M. to the "W. of (IV2 ^J^-) -^^** Somerville, is
Prospect Hill, with a monument erected in 1903 to commemorate
the spot on which the first American flag was unfurled in 1776.
We cross the Mystic. — From (5 M.) Chelsea (p. 275) a tramway
runs to Revere Beach (several hotels), the 'Coney Island' of Boston,
frequented hy enormous crowds on all holidays and provided with
admirable bathing facilities. It is also reached by the narrow-gauge
Boston, Revere Beach, ^- Lynn R. R., which runs along the beach to
Point of Pines (hotel) and (91/2 M.) Lynn (see below). We traverse
salt-marshes, cross Chelsea Creek and the Saugus, and reach —
12 M. Lynn [Seymour, Kirtland, $2-3), with (1905) 77,042 in-
hab., a handsome City Hall, and a Soldiers' Monument. It is a well-
known shoe-manufacturing town, producing 35 million pairs an-
nually, valued at 43 million dollars. The General Electric Co. employs
9500 hands. View from High Rock. *Lynn Woods (2000 acres) and
Lynn Shore belong to the Boston Park System (p. 269).
Lynn is the focus of a large system of Electric Railways, extending
to Boston (Scollay Sq.), Salem (p. 281), Gloucester (p. 2J^3), Newburyport
(p. 2i<3), Portsmouth (p. 284), York Beach (p. 285), and many nearer points.
An electric tramway (13 c.) runs from Lvnn to Lynn Beach (Red Rock
Ho., S 4) and (4 M.) Nahant (Hotel Tudor, $"3; Rockledge. $ 2V2-3; Bay Side
Inn), a curious rock-built promontory, with fine cliffs and beaches, con-
nected with the mainland by a narrow neck of sand. Nahant contains
the seaside homes of so many leading Bostonians as to have been called
'Cold Riiast Boston'. The finest point of the cliff scenery is Castle Rock,
at the E. end of the peninsula, reached through the grounds of Senator
Cabot Lodge. — Bass Point (Relay, Trimountain, $ 2V2-3), to the S.W., is
a popular resort in the style of Eevere Beach. Steamboat, see p. 274.
13 M. Swampscott (New Ocean Ho., from $41/2; Lincoln Ho.,
$ 3-4), a Bostonian seaside-resort, with charming combinations of
rocky bluffs and sandy beaches. The main line station is ca. 1^2 M-
from the sea, and carriages from the hotels meet the chief trains.
A small branch-line diverging here runs along the beach to Marhlehead
(18 M. from Boston), passing Phillips Beach, Beach Bluj^ (Hotel Preston, from
3 4; Bellevue, $ 21/2-31/2 ; Elms, $ 21/2-3), C/t/?o» (Crowninshield, $21/2-81/2),
and Devereux (Devereux Mansion, $ 21/2-3), all frequented for sea-bathing.
Marhlehead (Rock Mere Inn, from $ 4 ; also hotels at Clifton, Devereux,
and Marblehead Neck), a seaside town with 1906) 7209 inhab., dates back
SALEM. 35. Route. 281
to early in the 17th cent, and is one of the oldest and quaintest places
in New England. It lies on a rocky peninsula and has a fine harbour.
Its maritime commerce has, however, deserted it long since, and its chief
industry now is the making of shoes. Among the most noteworthy of the
old Colonial buildings is the National Bank., built as a mansion for Col.
Lee in 1768. The Old Fort, to the S. of the town, commands an excellent
view. St. MichaeVs Church dates from 1714. AhboVs Hall, with its loity
tower, contains the town-offices and a public library. The Post Office &
Custom House (1904) is a red brick building in the Colonial style. A granite
monument near the station commemorates the capture of a British ship
in 1776 by a Marbleheader. Marblehead was the birthplace of Elbridge Oerry
(of 'Gerrymander' fame; 1744-1814) and is the scene of Whiitier^s poem
'Skipper Ireson's Ride'. The famous encounter between the 'Chesapeake'
and the 'Shannon' took place off the coast here, and most of the crew of
the 'Constitution' (p. 274) were recruited in the town. See Samuel Roads^
, History of Marblehead' and Bynner''s historical novel 'Agnes Surriage'.
Marblehead Neck CN'anepashemet Ho., $31/2-6; Oceanside, from $3),
forming the outer arm of the harbour and connected with the mainland by
a narrow causeway, is a popular bathing-place and the headquarters of
the Eastern and Corinthian Yachting Clubs. The Marblehead course is one
of the favourite yacht-racing resorts on the coast, and the little harbour
is no stranger to such famous boats as the 'Volunteer', the 'Mayflower',
the 'Puritan', and the 'Reliance'.
As we approacli tlie next station, the notorions Witch Hill (comp.
,p. 282) is seen to the left.
17 M. Salem (Essex House., $ 21/2-3), the mother-city of Massa-
chnsetts, is a quiet and ancient town with (1905) 37,627 inhah.
and a good harhour flanked hy two crumbling forts. Its former com-
merce with the East Indies has now given way to a small coasting
trade, and a few manufactures are also carried on.
Naumkeag, on the site of Salem, was first visited by Roger Conant,
one of the Cape Ann immigrants, in 1626, and a permanent settlement
was made here by Gov. Endicott two years later. Gov. Winthrop landed
here in 1630, and for a time Salem was the capital of Massachusetts. In
1692 Salem was the scene of the extraordinary witchcraft delusion, of
which mention is made below. The legislature of Massachusetts met
at Salem in 1774 (the last time under the English Crown) and issued a
call for a Continental Congress. Privateersmen from Salem were very
active during the war. After the war Salem engaged in the East India
trade, and many of its citizens attained great wealth and influence. Indeed
it is said that about 1810 a Salem merchant was the largest ship-owner
in the world. Among the famous natives of Salem are Nathaniel Haw-
thorne (1804-64), who was Surveyor of the Port here from 1846 to 1850;
W. H. Prescott (1796-1859), the historian ; Maria S. Cummins (1827-66), au-
thor of 'The Lamplighter' ; Peirce (1809-80), the mathematician ; and W. W.
Story, the sculptor (1819-95). Comp. Osgood and Batchelder''s 'Historical
Sketch of Salem' (1879) and Hunt and Robinson''s 'Visitors' Guide'.
The Essex Institute, containing interesting collections of historical
paintings, portraits, and relics (open 9-5), occupies two connecting
buildings in Essex St. (Nos. 132, 134), one of which is on the site
of Prescott's birthplace. The Salem Athenaeum, 339 Essex St., a
subscription library founded in 1810, occupies Plummer Hall, a
new building in the Colonial style (1906). The Peabody Academy
of Science, also in Essex St. (No. 161), contains the * East India
Marine Museum, with important Japanese and other ethnological,
maritime, and natural history collections.
Babdekeb's United States. 4th Edit. 18
282 Route 35. BEYERLY. From Boston
At the head of Derby Wharf, at the S. end of the city, is the old
Custom House, in which Hawthorne was employed for fonr years
(see p. 281) and the scene of the introduction to 'The Scarlet Let-
ter'. The quaint gamhrel- roofed house in which he was horn is
No. 27 Union St., a narrow side-street extending from Essex St. to
Derby St. The Turner House, 54 Turner St., is pointed out as the
'House of the Seven Gables' and is shown for a small fee.
The Roger Williams House, 310 Essex St., is said to be that in
which Roger Williams resided in 1635-36, and also to have been
the scene of the preliminary examinations of some of the witches
in 1692; but both these statements seem open to doubt. The County
Court House contains original records of the witch-trials. Oallows
or Witch Hill, on which the witches were put to death, is 1 M. to
the W. of the city (near the tramway to Peabody ; see below).
Danvers or Salem Village^ the actual scene of the outbreak of the witch-
craft delusion of 1692, lies 5 M. to the W. of Salem, on the old Andover
highroad (electric tramway). Twenty innocent persons were put to death
through the denunciations of eight girls (varying in age from 11 to 20),
who met in the house of Samuel Parris, the too credulous minister of the
parish. The house has been pulled down, and its site is marked only
by a slight depression in the soil. Other spots that became memorable
during this Reign of Terror are still pointed out; and a good account
of it will be found in books by Upham and Mvins (1893). These spots all
lie in the township of Danvers. The farm-house in which Gen. Putnam
(1718-90) w&s born stands about 1 M. beyond Salem Village, at the inter-
section of the Andover and Newburyport roads.
About 2 M. to the N. W. of Salem (railway) is Peabody, the birthplace of
the philanthropist George Peabody (1795-1869). The Peabody Institute, which
he founded and endowed, contains the jewelled portrait of Queen Victoria
given by her to Mr. Peabody. He is buried in Harmony Grove Cemetery,
a little to the W. A tramway-trip may also be taken to (20 min.) The
Willows, a picnic resort overlooking the North Shore and the outer harbour.
A charming 'Drive may be taken from Salem along the 'North Shore'
to (2 M.) Beverly, (9 M.) Manchester, (12 M.) Magnolia, and (idm..) Gloucester
(p. 283), traversing beautiful woods, passing numerous fine country-houses,
and affording views of the sea. The drive in the opposite direction to (4 M.)
Swampscott and (6 M.) Lynn is also attractive.
A branch-line runs from Salem to (4 M.) MarUehead (p. 280), and it is
also the junction of lines to Lawrence, Wakefield, Lowell, etc.
On leaving Salem the train passes through a tunnel, 200 yds.
long, and crosses the North River.
19 M. Beverly {Clayton, $2), another ci-devant seaport, with
(1905) 15,223 inhab., now given over to the making of shoes, is
the junction of a branch-line to Gloucester and Rockport.
From Beverly to Gloucester and Rockport, 17 M., railway in 5/4 br.
(fare 43 c). This line follows the so-called North Shore, with its fine series
of beaches and the innumerable seaside villas of well-to-do Bostonians,
to the extremity of Cape Ann. Among the numerous authors and artists
who have frequented this lovely bit of sea-coast are Longfellow, Holmes,
Whittier, Bayard Taylor, W. M. Hunt, J. Freeman Clarke, Susan Hale
and James T. Fields. Passing Montserrat, Pride''s Crossing, Beverly Farms
and West MancMster, aU with handsome country-houses, we reach (7 M.)
Manchester -by -the- Sea (ifa^coTjomo, from ^ ^{^Browntarhd Cottages, from
$3), one of the chief resorts of the North Shore. One of its special
features is the Singing Beach (large bath-house), the white sand of which
emits a musical sound when stirred. The Coolidge Memorial LH»'ary is
to Portland. GLOUCESTER. 35. Route. 283
interesting. — From (9 M.) Magnolia Station omnibuses run to (2V2 M.)
Magnolia (Oceanside, from $4; Magnolia^ burned down in 1907 but to
be rebuilt ; Aborn, 3 4 ; Hesperus, from $ 3 ; North Shore Orill, adj oining
the Magnolia, a fashionable restaurant), another pleasant little watering-
place on a rocky bluff, adjoined by the fine Crescent Beach (large bathing
establishment). The beautiful woods round Magnolia are among its special
charms. A little to the E. is the wonderful Rafe^s Chasm (60 ft. deep and
6-10 ft. wide), opposite which is the black reef of Norman^s Woe, immor-
talized by Longfellow in 'The Wreck of the Hesperus'. A handful of
Penobscot Indians generally camp near Magnolia in summer and sell bas-
kets, etc. The plants which have given name to the place (in bloom in
July) grow in a swamp near the station.
13 M. Gloucester (Sw/side, from § 2^/2), a quaint and foreign-looking
city with (1905) 26,011 inhab., is one of the largest fishing-ports in the
world, employing 5-6000 men in its fleets. Among the foreign vessels
which put into its safe and capacious harbour are many Sicilian barques,
bringing salt for the fish-curers. Gloucester is a great resort of artists,
owing partly to the picturesqueness of the town itself and partly to the fine
scenery of Cape Ann (p. 282). The outer harbour is protected by Eastern
Point, with a lighthouse. Here lies (21/2 M.) East Gloucester (Hawthorne Inn,
$3; Xew Rockaway, from $ 21/2; Beachcroft, Delphine, etc., $2-8), reached
by electric tramway from the station, a pleasant sea-bathing resort, afford-
ing a striking *View of many-spired Gloucester. Elizabeth Stuart Phelps
(Mrs. Ward) has her summer-home here (see her 'Old Maid's Paradise'),
and Rudyard Kipling has celebrated Gloucester's fishing folk in 'Captains
Courageous'. The Bass Bocks and Good Harbor Beach (Thorwald, $21/2-5;
Moorland, from $ 3) lie a little to the N.E., facing the twin lighthouses
on Thatcher''s Island (automobile omnibuses from the railway -station).
Near West Gloucester lies the picturesque Mount Anne Park. A favourite
outing from Gloucester is that '■Round the Cape" (14 M.), and excursions
may also be made to (3 M.) Rafe's Chasm (see above) and to Norman's
Woe (see above).
The railway ends at (17 M.) Rockport (Straitsmouth Inn, $ 3V2-5), where
a huge breakwater has been constructed by the U. S. Government. An
electric tramway runs hence, passing large granite quarries, to (2 M.) Pigeon
Cove (Ocean View Ho., Glen-Acre, $2i/2-3), a summer-resort near the end of
Cape Ann. Cars also run from Rockport to the (IV2 M.) Land's End (Turk's
Head, $ 3-5). To complete the round of the Cape we go on by trolley to
Lanesville, Bay View, Annisquam (Overlook, $ 21/2-31/2), and Riverdale, and
80 back to Gloucester.
Returning to the main line, we soon reacli (23 M.) Hamilton ^
Wenham. The former is the seat of the Myopia Hunt Club, with
the best golf-links in New England. The ice of Wenham Lake is
known almost all over the world ; the ice-honses are seen to the
left. — 28 M. Ipswich (Agawam Ho., $ 2-21/23) a q.naint little town,
with 4658 inhab. and a good golf-conrse. We cross the Parker River.
38 M. Newburyport (Wolfe Tavern, $272-^; Brown Square
Hotel, $ 2), 'an ancient sea-blown city at the month of the Merri-
mac', with (1905) 14,675 inhab., has, like other old New England
coast -towns, tnined from maritime commerce to mannfactnres
(boots, cotton, silver, etc.). The Public Library (State St.) occn-
pies an old Colonial mansion in which Washington and Lafayette
were entertained. The Marine Museum, in the same street, con-
tains oversea curiosities. In High St. is a good Statue of Washing-
ton, by J. Q. A. Ward. George Whitefleld (1714-70), the famous
preacher , is buried in the Old South Church (Federal St.), behind
which is the house in which William Lloyd Garrison (1805-79;
18*
284 Route 35. PORTSMOUTH. From Boston
pp. 51, 258) was born. The old mansion of the eccentric Lord
Timothy Dexter is in High St. The Unitarian ^ Congregationalist
Churchy in Pleasant St., is an interesting specimen of its era (1801).
About 4 M. from tKe Market Place, near the bridge over the Parker
River, is a Monument (1905) commemorating the settlement of Newbury in
1635-&3. The road to it passes a boulder, with an inscription relating to
Benedict Arnold's expedition up the Kennebec to Quebec.
Electric Cars and Steamboats (on the Merrimae) ply daily from New-
buryport to (4 M.) Salisbury Beach {Gushing, Seaside Ho., from $ Ij, which
extends for 5 M. to the N. of the Merrimae. A tramway runs to (2V2 M.)
Plum Island {Plum Island Ho., $ 2V2-3), a long sand-dune running S. from
the mouth of the Merrimae for 9-10 M. A steamboat also ascends the
Merrimae to (11 M.) Haverhill. Other points of interest in the neighbour-
hood are (81/2 M.) Indian Hill Farm, the home of Ben. Perley Poore
(1820-87; relics); the DeviVs Den, a cave 2 M. to the S. ; the Chain Bridge
across the Merrimae, 3 M. to the N"., leading to Deer Island, the home of
Harriet Prescott Spofford.
A branch-railway and an electric car line run to (5 M.) ^mes&wry, long
the home of John G. Whittier (1807-92; comp. p. 286), who has celebrated
this whole neighbourhood in his poems. His house is maintained as a
memorial of the poet.
In leaving Newhnryport we cross the Merrimae by a bridge 500
yds. long (view). Beyond (41 M.) Salisbury (electric line to Salisbury
Beach) we traverse the Folly Hill Woods and enter New Hampshire
('Granite State'). Farther on we cross salt-marshes. 48 M. Hampton
(Whittier, $ 2-21/2) is the station for Hampton Beach {*Boars Head,
$ 4^ Ocean Ho., R. from $ 1), 3 M. to the S.E. (stages at the station),
and from (50 M.) North Hampton stages ran to (31/2 M.) Eye Beach
(Farragut, from $5; Sea View, 31/2-4:; Sawyer Ho., $3, etc.), the
most frequented of the New Hampshire beaches. At the N. end
of the part of Rye Beach known as Jenness Beach is Straw Point, a
station of the submarine cable to England and also a U. S. life-
saving station. An electric tramway connects Rye Beach with Ports-
mouth (see below). — 53 M. Greenland is the station for (21/2 ^0
the N. end of Rye Beach.
58 M. Portsmouth (Rockingham, from $3; Kearsarge, $2-3;
Langdon, $ 2), the only seaport of New Hampshire, is situated on a
peninsula 3M. from the mouth of the Piscataqua. It is a quaint and
quiet old town, with 10,637 inhab. and pleasant tree-shaded streets.
Many of the old Colonial houses are interesting. St. John's Church,
rebuilt in 1806, contains some curious old relics. The Athenaeum
contains a library and museum. In Haven Park is a statue of General
Fitzjohn Porter (1822-1901), by J. E. Kelly (1904). On Continental
or Fernald's Island, in the river, is the Kittery V. S. Navy Yard
(ferry from Daniel St.), where the 'Kearsarge' was built. The treaty
of peace between Russia and Japan (Sept. 5th, 1905) was signed
here in the General Store House (commemorative tablets). The
island is connected by a bridge with Kittery, a village on the N.
bank, with some interesting Colonial houses. T. B. Aldrich (1836-
1907; house in Court St, with relics), James T. Fields (1817-81),
and B. P. Shillaber ('Mrs. Partington'; 1814-90) were bom at Ports-
to Portland. ANDOVER. 35. Route. 285
moutli. In Vaughan St. (No. 32) is the house to which Daniel
Webster "brought his young "bride in 1808. Seavey's Island was
occupied in 1898 by the captive seamen of Adm. Cervera's fleet.
Stages run daily to (2V2 M.) Newcastle (*Wentwortli Ho., from $5), a
summer-resort on an island at the month of the harbour. Close by, a,t Little
Barbor, is the interesting old mansion of the Wentworth family (1750),
From Poktsmouth to the Isles of Shoals, 10 M., steamer several
times daily in 1 hr. (return-fare $ 1). The *Isles of Shoals are nine rocky
islands, 6-9 M. from shore, frequented as summer-resorts on account of
their pure sea-air and immunity from mosquitoes. The chief are Apple-
dore (Appledore Ho., $ 3V2, 400 beds) and Star Island (Oceanic Ho., $ 3,
300 beds). On White Island, to the S.W., is a powerful lighthouse. See
Celia Thaxter's 'Among the Isles of Shoals' and LowelVs 'Appledore'.
From Portsmouth to York Beach, 11 M., York Harbor Js Beach Rail-
way in 35 min. (fare 35 c). This line serves another series of beach-resorts
to the N. of Portsmouth, which may, perhaps, be still better visited by
trolley (charming ride). — The railway crosses the Piscataqua to Kittery
(p. 284) and bends to the right. 7 M. Seaburg ; 9 M. York Harbor {Marshall^
$31/2-41/2; Albracca, $3-3V2; Yorkshire Inn, $3; GUns, Varrell Ho., ^2-S),
the most fashionable part of the line of beaches, at the mouth of York
River; 10 M. Long Beach (Mitchell's, $ IV2-2V2). at the Long Sands. — 11 M.
York Beach {Ocean Ho., $ 2V2 31/2 ; Young's, $ 2V2-4 ; Fairmount, $ 21/2 ; Hasting-
Lyman, Wahnita, $2-3), adjoining Cape Neddick, with the rocky 'Nubble,
(lighthouse) off its extremity. Some way to the N. of York Beach station
is the *Passaconway Inn ($ 5), which is also frequented by the best class
of visitors. About 3 M. to the N. of this is '-Bald Head Cliff (85 ft. high),
beyond which lies Ogunquit Beach (The Ontio, Sparhawk Hall, $ 2V2-4).
Inland from York Beach rises (6 M.) Mt. Agamenticus (673 ft. ; *View).
On leaving Portsmouth we cross the Piscataqua and enter Maine
('Pine Tree State'), a state with 1500 lakes and ponds of an aggregate
area of 2300 sq. M., 5000 rivers and streams, and nearly 20,000 sq.M.
of forest, harbouring immense quantities of game. At (70 M.) Conway
Junction diverges a line to North Conway (p. 321). At (78 M.) North
Berwick the Eastern Division of the Boston and Maine R. R. crosses
the Western Division, and becomes in reality the W. or inland route.
[The stations on both routes are the same, but as most of them lie
near the sea they are better described in R. 35 b (see below).]
115 M. Portland, see p. 287.
b. By the Western Division of the Boston and Maine Railroad.
115 M. Railway in 3-4 hrs. (fares as at p. 280).
The train starts from the N. Union Station (p. 253) and follows
practically the same course as the E. Division till beyond the
Mystic (comp. p. 280). It then keeps dueN., while the E. Divi-
sion turns to the N.E. 7 M. Melrose, with a winter-resort named
the Langwood Hotel. To the left are ^Middlesex Fells, 1800 acres
of forest, crag, and pond, reserved as a public park. — 10 M.
Wakefield, the junction of a line to (30 M.) Newburyport (p. 283).
23 M. Andover (Phillips Inn, well spoken of, $ 2-3), an academic
town with (1905) 6632 inhab., is well known through the Andover
Theological Seminary, one of the chief educational institutions of
the CongregationaUsts, which, however, was removed to Cambridge
286 Route 35. HAVERHILL. From Boston
and allied with Harvard University in 1908. Phillips Academy
(450 pnpils), the Punchard High School, and the Ahhott Female
Seminary also enjoy a considerable reputation. Mis. Harriet Beecher
Stowe (1811-96) moved to Andover jnst after publishing 'Uncle
Tom's Cabin' (comp. p. 289), and is buried in the private cemetery
of the trustees of Phillips Academy. Her house is now the Phillips
Inn (p. 285). Mrs. "Ward (Eliz. Stuart Phelps) was born here
and wrote 'The Gates Ajar' in the still-standing Phelps House.
At North Andover (on the Peabody & Lawrence branch) are the
large Stevens Cotton Mills, and the homestead of Anne Bradstreet
(d. 1672), the first American poetess. — 26 M. South Lawrence lies
on the right bank of the Merrimac, opposite Lawrence {Franklin
Ho., $2-3; Brunswick, Essex, $2), one of the largest industrial
cities of New England, with (1905) 70,050 inhabitants. Its numerous
large and substantial Cotton and Woollen Mills, employing over
30,000 hands and producing annually 200 million yds. of cloth, line
both sides of the Merrimac and are driven mainly by water-power
supplied by the construction of a huge dam in 1845 (fall of 28 ft. ;
12,000 horse-power; value of manufactures in 1905, $48,036,593).
The Washington Mills, with 6500 hands, produce annually 14,000,000 lbs.
of yarn and 12,000,000 yds. of cloth. - The Wood Worsted Mill, Vs M. in
length, is the largest mill-building in the world. — Other large mills are
the Arlington (7000 hands) and the Pacific (5500 hands).
Beyond South Lawrence we descend along the right bank of the
Merrimac t to (32^/4 M.) Bradford (with an old and famous acad-
emy for giris) and (33 1/4 M.) Haverhill (Webster, Eagle, $2-3),
a shoe-manufacturing town with (1905) 37,830 inhab. (manufactures
in 1900, $ 24,394,530). In Main St. is a poor statue of Hannah
Duston (p. 314). The poet Whittier (p. 284) was born in 1807 near
Lake Kenoza (the scene of 'Snowbound' ; house marked by a bronze
tablet), 1 M. to the N.E. of Haverhill. A branch-line runs from
Haverhill to (16 M.) Newburyport (p. 283).
We now leave the Merrimac and enter New Hampshire (p. 284).
41 M. Newton Junction, for Merrimac. To the left lies Country Pond ;
to the right rises Morse Hill (312 ft.). 51 M. Exeter (Rail. Restau-
rant; pop. 4922), with another Phillips Academy (comp. above),
which has numbered among its pupils Daniel Webster, George Ban-
croft, and Edw. Everett. To the right flows Exeter River. — 68 M.
Dover (American Ho., $ 2-2V2lj a cotton and woollen manufacturing
city, with 13,207 inhab., settled in 1623, lies on the Cocheco.
Dover is the junction of lines to (28 M.) Alton Bay, on Lake "Winni-
pesaukee (p. 316), and to Portsmouth (p. 284).
Just after crossing the Salmon Falls River a.t(72M.') SalmonFalls,
with its cotton-mills, we enter Maine (p. 285). At (78 M.) North
Berwick the W. Division intersects the E. Division (see p. 285).
85 M. Wells Beach (Wenonah, $2). To the right we have a view of
t Some trains cross the Merrimac and enter Lawrence proper.
to Portland. PORTLAND. 35. Route. 287
the sea. From (90 M.) Kenneburik a line nms to (5 M.) Kennebunk-
port {Old Fort Inn, from $4; Oceanic, from $ 3; Cliff Ho., Parker
Ho., Nonantum, $2-3), an old maritime village at the month of the
Kennebunk, now in repute among summer yisitors, who congregate
chiefly at Kennehunk Beach (Atlantis, from $ 4 ; Eagle Rock, Nara-
gansett, from $21/2), on Cape Arundel.
99 M. Biddeford (Thatcher, $2-21/2) and (100 M.) Saco (Saco
Ho., $2; Bay View, at Ferry Beach, $21/2-4), two busy towns
(16,145 and 6122inhab.), on opposite sides of the Saco Biver,
which here falls 55 ft. and furnishes power for cotton-mills, saw-
mills, and machine-shops.
Steamers descend the Saco to (8M.) Biddeford Pool (Ocean View, $ 21/2-8) at
its moutli, connecting at Camp Ellis with the Orchard Beach R, R. (see below).
104 M. Old Orchard Beach, one of the best and most popular
bathing-beaches in New England, was largely destroyed by a fire
in Aug., 1907. The Old Orchard House ($4) was the only large
hotel that survived, but probably most of the others will be rebuilt.
The pier is 1950 ft. in length. The train runs close to the beach,
which extends from the Saco to (10 M.) Scarboro. The Beach
Railway runs from Camp Ellis (see above) to Old Orchard Beach
Junction, on the E. Division.
From (109 M.) Scarboro omnibuses run to (8 M.) Scarboro
Beach (Atlantic, $ 21/2-3), 2 M. to the S. of which is Prout's Neck
(Jocelyn Ho., $21/2-41/2; Checkley, $21/2-81/2; Southgate Ho.,
$ 21/2). — Farther on, the train crosses the Fore River and enters
the Union Station at —
115 M. Portland. — *Congeess Squake Hotel, $3-5; Lafayette,
Congress St., cor. of Park St., $ 3-5, these two with dining-rooms at the
top of the house (view) ; Falmouth House, Middle St., in the centre of
the town, $3-5, R. from $1; Preble House, Monument Sq., $3-5, R.
from SI; Columbia, $ 21/2-5; West End, opposite the Union Station,
$21/2-31/2; Jeffeeson, R. from $ 1. — Cordes Ca/4, 489 Congress St.
Steamboats run regularly from Portland to Boston (daily, in 8 hrs. ;
$ 11/4, stateroom $ i-2), to New York ($ 5, including cabin-berth, stateroom
extra), to Eastport and St. John, and to Mt. Desert (see p. 291). Small
steamers ply frequently from the Custom House Wharf to Harpswell, Peak
Island, Cushing's Island, and other points in Casco Bay. In winter Port-
land is the American port of the Dominion and Allan Ocean Steamers.
Electric Tramways run through the principal streets, to the railway
stations, and to various points in the environs.
British Vice- Consul, Mr. J. B. Keating.
Portland, the largest city in Maine, with (1900) 50,145 inhab.,
is finely sitaated on a hilly peninsula projecting into Casco Bay.
Its harbour is deep and well protected by six forts, and its commerce
with Great Britain is considerable. The number of trees in its streets
have earned for it the name of 'Forest City'.
The town was originally founded in 1633 and was at first named
Machigonne or Casco and afterwards Falmouth. It suffered severely at the
hands of the French and the Indians and in 1775 was almost entirely de-
stroyed by the British. After the war it was rebuilt and in 1786 received
the name of Portland. Among the distinguished natives of Portland are
Longfellow (1807-82), N. P. Willis (1807-67), 'Fanny Fern^ (Mrs. Parton;
288 Route 35. PORTLAND.
1811-72), Neal Dow (1803-97), Thomas B. Reed (d. 1902), S. S. Prentiss
(1808-50), the orator, and Commodore Preble (1761-1807), of Tripolitan
War fame.
Most of the principal buildings are in Congress Street, wMeh
runs the whole length of the city, from the Western Promenade on
BramhalVs Hill (175 ft.), to the Eastern Promenade on Munjoy's
Hill (160 ft.). The Observatory (fee) on the latter affords an ex-
cellent *View of the city, the bay, the White Mts. (p. 320), and
the Sandwich Mts. (panorama by Abner Lowell). Near the middle
of Congress St. is the City Hall, rebuilt since a disastrous fire in
1908; and hard by, in Middle St., is the tasteful Post Office, with
a Corinthian portico. A little to the E. of the City Hall, Con-
gress St. passes Lincoln Park (right) and the Roman Catholic
Cathedral (left), and a little farther on is the Eastern Cemetery,
with the graves of Commodore Preble (see above) and Commanders
Burro wes and Blythe of the 'Enterprise' and 'Boxer' (p. 292). At
the intersection of Congress St. and State St. (see below) is a
good Statue of Longfellow, by Franklin Simmons. The War Mon-
ument in Monument Sq., which was the site of a gun-battery in
1775, is by the same artist.
State Street, leading from Deering's Oaks (see below) to the
harbour, contains some good specimens of old Colonial houses and
three fine churches (Congregational , St. Luke's Cathedral, and
St. Dominies). — The house in which Longfellow was born stands
at the corner of Fore St. and Hancock St., close to the Grand Trunk
R. R. Station. The Wadsworth - Longfellow Mansion (adm. 25 c),
in which he lived, is next door to the Prehle Hotel (p. 287), It was
erected by Gen. Peleg Wadsworth, the poet's grandfather, in 1785-
86 ; and an addition, built in 1903, contains the library of the Maine
Historical Society.
Among the other chief buildings are the new TJ. S. and County
Court Houses, in Federal St.; the Custom House, near the Boston
steamboat-wharf; the Maine General Hospital; the Universalist
Church, with an organ of 5000 pipes ; and the buildings of the T. M.
C. A., the Natural History Society, and the Public Library (60.000
vols.). Deering's Oaks Park lies a little to the N. of the W. end of
Congress Street.
Environs. Pleasant drives or trolley-rides may be taken to Evergreen
Cemetery (21/2 M.); to Riverton Park (51/2 M-); to Falmouth Foreside (6 M. to
the N.), Underwood Springs, and Varmouth Foreside (12 M.); and to (3 M.)
Cape Cottage Park (with theatre, casino, and restanrant), and (9 M.) the
Twin Lighthouses, both on *Cape Elizabeth, to the S. Among the pleasantest of
the longer trips is that to the Bay of Naples (p. 304; there and back $ IV2).
*Casco Bay, an admirable yachting water, is crowded with pretty
wooded islands, many of which are favourite summer-resorts, especially
(31/2 M.) Cushing's Island (fine cliffs). Peak Island (2V2 M.-, Peak Island Ho.,
$ 2-3; Avenue, $ IV2-2, and many others; frequented by day-excursionists ;
summer-theatre), Long Island (4 M. ; Dirigo Ho., $2; Granite Spring Ho.,
5 IV2-2), and Little Chebeague (6 M.; Hamilton, $2V2-3V2; Sunnyside, $2).
289
36. From Portland to Mount Desert.
a. ViS, Eangor.
191 M. Maine Centeal Raileoad to (179 M.) Bar Harbor Ferry in
51/2-73/4 hrs. ; steam-ferry thence to (12 M.) Bar Harbor in V* ^^- (through-
fare $5; parlor-car $1.25, sleeper $2). From Boston to Bar Harbor by
this route in 9V2-12 hrs. (fare $7; parlor-car $1.50, sleeper $2).
Portland, see p. 287. The line mns to the N., affording a good
retrospect of the city , and soon crosses the Presumpscot. 11 M.
Cumberland Junction (p. 297). We cross the Grand Trunk Rail-
way at (15 M.) Yarmouth Junction (comp. p. 303). — 29 M. Brun-
swick (Eagle, $ 2; Rail. Restaurant), a flourishing town of 6806 in-
hab., lies at the head of the tidal waters of the Androscoggin,
which forms three small falls here. It is the seat of Bowdoin College
(pron. 'Bod'n'; near the station), one of the leading institutions of
learning in New England (400 students). The Walker Art Building,
belonging to the college, is adorned with frescoes by Elihu Tedder,
Abbott Thayer, Kenyon Cox., and John La Farge, and contains
about 150 paintings, including portraits of Madison and Jefferson
by Gilbert Stuart and works attributed to Hogarth, Brouwer, Berg-
hem, Hondecoeter, Yan Dyck (*Portrait), Rubens, and Teniers.
'Uncle Tom's Cabin' was written at Brunswick, while Mrs. Stowe's
husband was a professor at Bowdoin College (1851-52). Longfellow
was also a professor at Bowdoin College in 1829-35; and Haw-
thorne, Longfellow, President Pierce, Governor Andrew (p. 276),
and Chief Justice Fuller are among its alumni.
Brunswick is the junction of the line to Bath and (56 M.) Rockland
(R. 36 b). Other lines run to (20 M.) Lewiston (p. 298) and Leeds Junction
(p. 298).
Beyond Brunswick we cross the Androscoggin and run to the
N. along the Kennebec (to the right). 48 M. Iceboro , with the
largest ice-houses in the world (on the river; 1,000,000 tons of
ice are shipped from the Kennebec yearly to all parts of the world).
— 56 M. Gardiner (Johnson Ho., $2), a city with 5500 inhab.,
engaged in wood-sawing in summer and ice-cutting in winter, is
also connected with Augusta by a picturesque electric tramway,
running through Hallowell and along the W. bank of the Kennebec.
62V2 M. Augusta (^Augusta Ho., from $ 3 ; Cony Ho., $ 2-21/2),
the capital of Maine, with 11,683 inhab., lies on both sides of the
Kennebec, about V2 ^- below the huge Kennebec Dam, which
affords water-power for its factories. The chief buildings are the
Post Office, the Lithgow Library, the City Hall, and the solid
granite State House, the dome of which commands a beautiful
view. On the E. side of the river are the State Insane Asylum
and the Kennebec Arsenal. Augusta was the home of J. G. Blaine
(d. 1893). There is a Soldiers^ Monument. A memorial tablet marks
the historic Fort Western (1754). Steamers ply from Augusta to
Gardiner (see above), connecting with large boats for Portland,
290 Route 36. BANGOR. From Portland
In leaTing Angnsta we cross the Kennebec, wMch now mns to
onr left. At (80 M.) Winslow, witli its huge pnlp-mills, we cross
it again, jnst ahove near its confluence with the Sebasticook and
immediately over the Taconic Falls. To the left, at the confluence
of the two rivers, is a block-house which formed part of old Fort
Halifax (1744). — 82 M. Waterville (Elmwood Ho., from $2; Rail.
Restaurant), with 9477 inhab. , large cotton-mills, and a Baptist
college (Colby College; 230 students), is the junction of the
Lewiston division of the Maine Central R. R. (see p. 300) and of
a branch-line to (18 M.) Skowhegan (Cobum, $2-2V2; 5180 in-
hab.). Gen. Ben Butler (1818-93) was a student of Colby College.
— We now cross and leave the Kennebec , and pass over the
watershed between that river and the Penobscot. From (9572 ^0
Burnham a branch-line runs to (34 M.) Belfast (Windsor, $ 2-2^2 5
4615 inhab.), on Penobscot Bay 5 and from (103 M.) Pittsfield another
runs to (8 M.) Hartland. To the right flows the Sebasticook. 110 M.
Newport is the junction of a line running N. to Dexter (Ex-
change, $2-21/2), Dowr (Blethen Ho., $2), and (66 M.) Moosehead
Lake (see p. 301). 131 1/2 ^- Northern Maine Junction (p. 300).
137 M. Bangor (Bangor Ho., well spoken of, $ 21/2-4; Penob-
scot Exchange, $21/2-4; Windsor, $2-272 5 ^^^l- Restaurant),
the third city in Maine, with 21,850 inhab., is commandingly
situated on the Penobscot, at the head of navigation and 60 M. from
the ocean. Its chief industry is the sawing and shipment of timber,
about 150 million ft. of lumber being . annually surveyed here,
mainly from the vast forests of N. Maine. Among its chief build-
ings are the Court House, the City Hall, the Custom House, the
Theological Seminary, and the 7. M. C. A. Building.
From Bangok to St. John (in Isew Brunswick), 205 M., railway in
63/4-71/4 lira, (from Boston to St. Jolin, 450 M., in 15-17 hrs.). TMs line
is a continuation of that described above from Portland to Bangor , and
passes through a district of great importance to the sportsman. — 8V2 M.
Orono, with the University of Maine (775 .students). — 13 M. Oldtoum. The
second railway in the United States, opened in 1836, ran from Oldtown to
Bangor. — At, (59 ?l.) MattawamJceag, we join the C. P. R. route from
Montreal to St. John (about 75 M. to the E. of Greenville; comp. p. 301). —
Beyond (115 M.) Vancehoro (Bail. Restaurant) the train crosses the St. Croix,
and enters New Brtmsioick (Canada). 121 M. McAdam Junction, for the line
to (43 M.) St. Andrews (* Algonquin Hotel, $3-5). — 161 M. Fredericton
Junction, for (22 M.) Fredericton {Queen''s, Barker., S 2-3; pop. 7117), the
capital of New Brunswick, whence we may descend the St. John River
(fine scenery) bv steamer to (84 M.) St. John (see Baedeker^s Canada). —
205 M. St. John {Royal, $ 3-4; Dxifferin, $ 21/2-3 ; Victoria, S2-3 ; New Victoria,
$ 2-21/2), the commercial metropolis of ^^ew Brunswick (pop. 40,711), finely
situated at the mouth of the St. John River.
Fkom Bangoe to Fort Kent (219 M.) and Van Bueen (234 M.), Bangor d;
Aroostook Railroad in 8 hrs. (fares $8.65, $7.55; parlor-car to Caribou $1;
sleeper, $ 2). This railway opens up the 'Aroostook Region', which is
full of opportunities for the sportsman and angler The arr ingements for
guides, camps, and inns are similar to those in the Moosehead district. Full
information may be obtained from the Traffic Manager of the railway, at
Bangor. — From Bangor to (42 M.) Milo Junction, see p. 300. Beyond
(48 M.) Brownville (Herrick Ho., $2), where a short branch-line diverges
to Mount Desert. ELLSWORTH. 3(5. Route. 291
to (13 M.) the Katahdin Iron Works (Silver Lake Ho., $2; Pleasant Eiver
Camps, 5 M. from the railway, $ IV2), we cross the Canadian Pacific Rail-
way (comp. Baedeler'^s Canada). "We then traverse the districts of Schoodic
and Seboois Lakes, on which are numerous camps and sporting stations.
73 M. Norcrosi (Norcross Ho., $2), for Twin Lakes and for the (18 M.) Dehs-
coneag Lakes., a fine sporting centre reached by steamer and canoe (Camps,
$ 2). 80 M. MilUnocket (Great Northern Hotel, $ 2-2V2), for Millinocket Lake.
— 80 M. Gfrmdstone (Grindstone Ho., $21/2). 101 M. Stacyville (East Branch
Ho., $ 1) and (105 M.) Sherman are the nearest railway-stations to Mt. Ktaadn
or Katahdin (5273 ft.), the hi°[hest mountain in Maine, which rises about
20 M. to the W. — From (104 M.) Patten Junction a short line runs to
(6 M.) Patten (Palmer Ho., $2), a sporting centre. — At (124 M.) Ashland
Junction the line forks. The right branch runs to the E. to (141 M.) Houlton
(Snell Ho., Exchange, $ 2), where it connects with the C. P. E. (comp.
Baedeker''s Canada), and thence to the N. to (180 M.) Fort Fairfield Junction
(for a line to Fort Fairfield and Aroostook, see Baedeker'' s Canada), Caribou
(200 M. ; Vaughan, Burleigh, $ 2), and (234 M.) Van Buren (Van Buren
Hotel, $ 2; Hammond). [From Caribou a short branch-line leads to (16 M.)
Limestone (Bangor & Aroostook Ho., $ 1V2)-] — The left branch runs to
the N. from Ashland Junction (see above) to (167 M.) Ashland (Ashland
Ho., Exchange, $ 2) and (219 M.) Fort Kent (Dickey, .$ 2), which is connected
by ferry across the St. John with Clairs, in Canada (see Baedeker's Canada).
Feom Bakgok to Seaespoet, 34 M., Bangor & Arooi^took Railroad in
IY2 hr. (fare $ 1.30). From Bangor to (5 M.) Northern Maine Junction, see
p. 300. We here turn to the left and run towards the S. — 34 M. Sears-
port is the seaport terminal of the railway, on Stockton Harbor, with large
wharves and docks. Penobscot Park is a marine pleasure-resort.
From Bangor to Greenville, see R. 39b.
The Bar Hartor brancli crosses tlie Penobscot (almost tlie only
salmon-stream left in New England) and rans from Bangor toward
tlie S.E. — 166 M. Ellsworth, a ship-bnilding place wltli 4297 in-
hab., at the head of navigation of Union River. We pass Green Lake
(well stocked with land-locked salmon and tront) on the left and
another small lake on the right. At (I681/2 ^0 Washington Junction
we have our first view of Mt. Desert (right).
Feom Washington Junction to Eastpoet or Calais, 102 M., railway
in 33/4 hrs. This line forms the shortest route from Boston to the just-
named points (for the sea-route, see p. 301) and runs through a region
(Washington County) abounding in game, lakes, and ponds. — 9 M. Franklin;
241/2 M. Unionville; 29 M. Cherryfleld (1S59 inhab.) ; 35 M. Harrington; 38V2 M.
Columbia; 41V2 M. Columbia Falls; 46 M. Jonesboi'o; 53V2 M. Whitneyville ;
57 M. Machias (2082 inhab.). At (6IV2 M.) East Machias, the nearest rail-
way-station to (31/2 M.) Jonesport (p. 294), the line turns towards the IT.
75 M. Marion. — At (86 M.) Ayer''s Junction the line forks, one branch
running to the E. to (891/2 M.) Pembroke. idiy2 M.) Perry, and (102 M ) East-
port (see p. 302), while the other continues to the N. to (98V2 M.) St. Croix
Junction and (102 M.) Calais, where we connect with the Canadian railway
system (comp. R. 40 and Baedeker^s Canada). [St. Croix is the junction
of a branch-line to (17 M.) Princeton, the starting-point for Grand Lake
(reached by electric lannch and road) and other fishing-resorts. Good quar-
ters may be had at BalVs Camps, Sunset Gamp ($ 2), Ouananiche Lodge, etc.]
179 M. Mt. Desert or Bar Harbor Ferry (Bluffs Hotel, $2; Rail.
Restaurant). The train runs alongside the steamer, which crosses
Frenchman Bay to (191 M.) Bar Harbor (p. 294), sometimes calling
first at Sullivan (Manor Inn, $ 21/2-3), Hancock Point (Tarratine
Ho., $2), and (185 M.) Sorrento (Sorrento Hotel, $81/2-6, with
good cafe-restaurant), three pleasant resorts on the mainland.
292 Route 36. ROCKLAND.
b. Vi& Rockland.
156 M. Maine Centkal Railkoad to (86 M.) Rockland in 33/4 hre.;
Steamee from Rockland to (TOM.) Bar Harbor in 6-7 hrs. (through-fare $ 31/2).
As far as [30 M.) Brunswick tMs route coincides with that ahove
descrihed. Here we diverge to the right and soon reach (38 M.)
Bath (Shannon, Phoenix, $2), a small ship-huilding town with
10,477 inhah., on the Kennehec, 12 M. from the sea.
Vessels of the Eastern Steamship Co. ply daily between Bath and
Boston (fare $1V2). The'^e go on up the Kennebec to Gardiner, vrhere
they connect with a smaller steamer for Augusta (see p. 289). At Bath
they connect with small steamers plying down the Kennebec to Popham
Beach (Riverside, $2), Boothlay (Jlenawarmet Ho., $3; Oak Grove Ho.,
Boothbay Ho., from $2), Squirrel Island (Squirrel Inn, $3), Mouse Island
(Samoset Ho., S3), Monheg an Island (Albee Ho., $2; primitive fisher com-
munity), and other points in the charming archipelago at the mouth of
the river. A little to the E. of the estuary of the Kennebec is the peninsula
of Pemaquid (Edgemere Ho.), with prehistoric heaps of oyster-shells. Ofi"
Pemaquid the American brig 'Enterprise' captured the British brig 'Boxer'
after a hard contest (Sept. 4th, 1814). Both commanders were killed
(see p. 288).
Throngh-carriages for Rockland are carried across the river to
(39 M.) Woolwich. 48 M. Wiscasset^ the scene of Blanche Willis
Howard's 'One Snmmer'; 56 M. Newcastle ^ Damariscotta. To the
left lies Damariscotta Lake. — 86 M. Bockland (* Samoset^ in a large
park at the breakwater, 2 M. from the city, with fine view of Penoh-
scot Bay, $4-5; Thorndike Hotel, $ 2^2-^^/2)1 a ship-huilding and
lime-burning city, with 8150 inhah., lies on OwVs Head Bay, an inlet
of Penobscot Bay. Steamers ply hence to Boston, Portland (10 hrs.;
$ 1 V4)j Bangor, Mt. Desert, and the islands in Penohscot Bay. "We
here quit the railway and emhark on the Mt. Desert steamer.
About 8 M. to the X, (reached by electric tramway or steamer) lies
Camden (Bap View, Mountain View, from $ 2), a favourite seashore-resort,
backed by fine hills (Mt. Megunticook, etc. •• 1300-1450 ft.).
Steamers also ply from RockJand to Belfast (p. 290), Bass Harior,
Blue Hill (Pendleton, $ 2), Searspori (p. 291), and various other points.
The Mt. Desert steamer of the Eastern Steamship Co. leaves
Rockland in the morning, on the arrival of the steamer from Boston
to Bangor, and first steers to the N. through the beautiful archi-
pelago of Penobscot Bay, leaving North Haven to the right, and
passing the long Islesboro (Islesboro Inn, $5) to the left. To the
left, too, on the mainland, rise the Camden Hills (comp above).
After calling at Dark Harbor, on Islesboro, the steamer bends to
the E. and soon enters the narrow Eggemoggin Beach, between the
mainland on the left and Little Deer and Deer Islands on the right.
It touches here at Sargentville and Brooklin, two resorts on the
mainland, and at Deer Isle. Quitting this sound we steer first to
the N.E. round Naskeag Point and then to the S.E. between some
small islands. To the right (S.) lie Swan Island and (farther on)
the Placentia Islands. The mountains of Mt. Desert come in sight
ahead. Passing Bass Harbor Head (lighthouse), at the S. end of
Mt. Desert (left), we soon turn to the N. (left) and steer between
SatidsPT
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MOUNT DESERT. 37. Route. 293
Mt. Desert and Oreat Cranberry Isle (p. 297). After calling at
South West Harbor and North East Harbor (p. 296), on opposite
sides of the entrance to Somes Sound ,(p. 297), the steamer steers
to the E., with Bear Island (lighthouse) to the left and Sutton
Island to the right, and calls at Seal Harbor (p. 296). It then tnrns
again to the N. and runs along the fine E. coast of Mt. Desert,
passing Otter Cliffs, Great Head (p. 295), etc. Egg Rock Lighthouse
lies at some distance to the right. About 5-6 hrs. after leaving
Rockland we reach Bar Harbor (p. 294), passing the pretty little
Bald Porcupine Island.
37. Mount Besert.
The island of *Mouiit Desert, the Indian Pemetic, lying just off
the coast of Maine , in Frenchman Bay, about 110 M. to the E. of
Portland, is 15 M. long, 4-12 M. wide, and 100 sq. M. in area. It
contains about 5500 permanent inhab., but this number is greatly
increased during summer. Within a moderate compass it contains
a considerable variety of picturesque scenery, and its mountains,
or rather hills, rising abruptly from the sea, have no parallel along
the whole Atlantic coast of the United States and are much more
imposing than their moderate elevation would suggest.
History. Mount Desert (accent on tlie first syllable) was first sighted
in 1604, by Champlain, who gave it the name of '■Isle des Monti Biserts".
In 1613 a small French colony, sent out by Mme. de Guercheville, to con-
vert the Indians, planted the settlement of St. Sanveur on Somes Sound
(see p. 297), but it was soon destroyed by the English (see Parkman'a
'Pioneers of France in the New World'). In 1688 Louis XIV. granted
the island to M. de la Motte Cadillac; but it was not till 1786 that his
granddaughter, 3Ime. de Gregoire, came over to claim the property, —
a claim that was allowed by the State of Massachusetts in 1787, The is-
land has, however, long since passed out of the possession of this family.
It was about 1850 that Mt. Desert was first visited by artists and other
summer-guests, but it waa not till 10-15 years later that Bar Harbor (p. 294)
began to be what it now is — one of the most frequented and fashionable
summer-resorts in the United States. Comp. 'Mount Desert, a History',
by Geo. E. Street (1907).
Physical Features. The mountains of Mt. Desert extend across the
centre of the island, running N. and S. in roughly parallel ridges, separated
by narrow, trough-like valleys. One of these valleys is occupied by Somes
Sound, which penetrates to the heart of the island. Thirteen main peaks
are reckoned, the highest of which is Mt. Green (1527 ft.; p. 2b5), on the
E. side. Numerous small mountain lakes and streams afford trout and
land-locked salmon fishing. Prof. Shaler finds evidence that even the
highest summits of Mt. Desert were submerged beneath the sea for some
time after the disappearance of the ice of the glacial epoch. — The Climate
of Mt. Desert is usually cool and refreshing in summer, but fogs are rather
frequent. The water is too cold for much sea-bathing. The Village Improve-
ment Associiitions have lately constructed many new paths and trails,
and a 'Path Map' of the E. part of the island has been issued (1906). On
the N. the island is connected with the mainland by a bridge.
Approaches. The usual approaches to Mt. Desert are indicated in R. 36.
We may also go from Boston to Bar Harbor by a steamer of the Eastern
Steamship Co., which starts daily at 5 p,m. and connects at Rockland early
next morning with the Bar Harbor boat of the same company (see p. 292;
through-fare $4, stateroom $1-2).
294 Route 37. MOUNT DESERT. Bar Harlot.
Bar Harbor. — Hotels. Louisbckg, Atlantic Ave., from $5; Mal-
VEBN, Kebo St., from $5^ St. Sauveue, $3-45 Newpoet House, near the
steamer- wharf, with cottages, $3-5; Maelboeough, Main St., ?2V2-3, R.
from$l; Rockaway, $2V2-3; New Floeence, Main St., open all the year
round, $2-4; Poeccpine, Main St., R. from $ 1; Geegoiee, an apartment-
hotel, with restaurant. Decreased rates by the week or month, and before
or after the height of the season. — Boarding Houses, $4-10 per week;
Furnished Lodgings from $2-3 upwards.
Carriages. With one horse SlVz perhr., with two horses (1-6 pers.)
$3. To the different places of interest on the island by tariff. — The
favourite carriage is the '•Buckboard', an excellent easy-riding conveyance
for hilly roads, made here to hold 2-15 persons.
Steamers to Rockland^ see p. 292; Boston, p. 293; Jonesport, p. 291 ;
Mt. Desert Ferry, p. 291. Steamers also ply to Sorrento and Sullivan (p. 291),
to Winter Harbor (p. 295), on the other side of the bay, and to Seal Harbor,
North Fast Harbor, and South West Harbor (see p. 296).
Boats for rowing, sailing (cat-boats), and fishing can be hired at mod-
erate rates; also steam-launches. Row-boat 35c. per hr., with man 75c.;
canoes, with Indians to paddle, 75 c. per hr. — Yachts frequent the harbour
in large numbers, and regattas are held under the management of the
Mount Desert Yacht Racing Association. — A visit of the Atlantic Squadron
of the U. S. Navy is often one of the events of the season at Bar Harbor. —
A Horse Show <& Fair is held annually at Robin Hood Park.
Kebo Valley Club, Eagle Lake Road, for golf, tennis, dinners, and dances;
Mount Desert Reading Room, Birch Point; Pot & Kettle Club, near the Ovens
(p. 295); Casino, "West St., with swimming-pool (all open to strangers on
introduction). — Indian Encampment, with baskets and curiosities for sale.
Comp. the current issue of the Bar Harbor Record (5c.).
Bar Harbor, a popular watering-place frequented by 10-20,000
visitors every summer and almost vying in importance witb Newport
(p. 248), lies on the E. coast of Mt. Desert, on Frenchman Bay,
opposite the pretty little Porcupine Islands and within 2 M. of the
N.E. base of Mt. Green (p. 295). Its name is derived from the bar,
uncovered at low water, which connects it with Bar or Bodick
Island. The chief street is Main Street (running S. from the steam-
boat-wharf), from which West St., Cottage St., and Mt. Desert St. run
to the W. A fine view is had, across the harbour, of the hills on the
mainland, and numerous pleasant walks and drives may be made in
the neighbourhood. A large breakwater protects the harbour.
The following Walk of 41/2 M. shows most of the points of interest
in Bar Harbor itself. Starting at the steamboat-wharf and passing the
Rockaway Hotel, we enter the *Shore Walk or Tow Path, which, like the
Cliff Walk at Newport (p. 250), runs between the sea on one hand and beau-
tiful villas and lawns on the other. The Mt. Desert Reading Room (see
above) stands at the beginning of the walk. A little farther on is Balance
Rock. The stone tower farther on is at the end of a bowling-alley belonging
to the Villa Edgemere. From Reef Point a path runs to the W. towards
Main St. Just before reaching Wayman Lane, also leading to Main St., we
pass a handsome house called The Briars. Beyond the lane we pass The
Lodge, Redwood, and Kenarden Lodge, and reach (3/4 M.) the pretty little
Cromwell Harbor, whence a private road leads to (1/4 M.) the S. end of
Main St. Turning to the right, we follow Main St. for 10 min. and then
turn to the left into Mt. Desert St. At the (10 min.) end of this street we
descend Eden St. or the Duck Brook Road to the right to (5 min.) the
bridge over Eddy Brook. Continuing to follow this road for about 1 M.,
with villas on both sides, the grounds on the right extending down to
the bay, we reach the Duck Brook Bridge, whence a pleasant ^Footpath
ascends to the left along the brook and through the trees to (2 M.) the
Eagle Lake road (p. 295). The so-called Bay Drive begins at the Duck
Bar Harbor. MOUNT DESERT. 37. Route. 295
Brook Bridge. In tlie meantime, however, we turn at tlie bridge and
retrace our steps along Duck Brook Road to (V2 M.) Eighbrook Road, wMch
diverges to the right and runs circuitously over the hill, rejoining Duck
Brook Road (Eden St.) about 1/2 M. farther on. We finally return (10 min.)
to Main St. through West St. or Cottage St., which both run to the left
from Duck Brook Road.
Excursions. The ascent of *Mount Green (1527 ft.) is, perhaps, the
best excursion to begin with. We may drive the whole way to the top
(4 M.) by a rough road (toll 25 c. for each horse and for each passenger,
10 c. for each walker), diverging to the left from the road to Eagle Lake
(the prolongation of Mt. Desert St.) about 1^4 M. from the village. Walkers
may ascend by the same route (IV2-2 hrs.), but will do better to follow
the ^'Path ascending the gorge between Mt. Green and Dry Mt. (comp. Map;
sign-posts). The *View from the top includes Bar Harbor, Frenchman
Bay, almost the whole of Mt. Desert, the ocean, and the coast of Maine.
Good walkers may descend along the ridges (route marked by cairns) to
(1 hr.) the Otter Creek Road (see below) and return by it to Bar Harbor. —
Newport Mt. (1060 ft.), to the E. of Mt. Green and close to the sea, is
ascended from the Schooner Head Road in 1 hr. The path (sign-post) leads
through trees, then over the ledges by cairns. *"View less extensive than
from Mt. Green, but better towards the E. The descent may be made via
the Beehive to Schooner Head or the Otter Creek road. — Mt. Kebo (405 ft.),
between Mt. Green and Bar Harbor, is ascended by a path (2 M.). — Dry Mt.
(1268 ft.) is ascended by a steep and picturesque path. — A very pleasant
trip for walkers is to go to (3 M.) "Eagle Lake (2 M. long, 1/2 M. wide, and
275 ft. above the sea; trout and land-locked salmon fishing); traverse it by
boat; follow a forest-path from its S. end, helow the, Bubbles (see below),
to (1 M.) Jordan Pond (p. 296) ; cross by boat to the lower end of Jordan Pond
(or follow the path along either shore) ; and walk thence to (2 M.) Seal Harbor
or (21/2 M.) Asiicou (comp. p. 296). The boat may be ordered by telephone
from the Jordan Pond House (rfmts.), at the lower end of Jordan Pond.
With this trip may be combined an ascent of the Bubbles (845 and 780 ft. ;
paths from N. end of Jordan Pond and S. end of Eagle Lake) or Pemetic Mt.
(1262 ft. ; steep, rough trail, known as the 'Goat TraiF). The descent may
be made to Bubble Pond (path) or to the foot of Jordan Pond (path).
The*Ocean Drive to Schooner Head, Great Head, and the Otter Cliffs, return-
ing through the Gorge, is a fine round of 12 M. ($ IV2 for each passenger). We
leave Bar Harbor by Main St. and drive towards the S. At (3^/4 M.) Schooner
Head, named from a white stain resembling the sails of a schooner, are the
Spouting Horn (seen to advantage in rough weather only) and the Anemone
Cave. About 1 M. farther on we diverge to the left from the road to visit the
bold and massive promontory of 'Great Head, towering 140 ft. above the
water and affording a fine view. To the S. lies Sa7id Beach, near which our
road runs to (IV2 M.) Otter Cliffs. To visit the * Otter Cliffs (188 ft.;
*View), we again diverge to the left from the road. We now turn to the
right (N.) and drive back to (6 M.) Bar Harbor through the Gorge, between
Newport Mt. on the right and Dry Mt. (see above) on the left.
Another favourite drive is to (IV2 M.) Duck Brook (see above) and thence
by the Bay Drive (*View) to (IV2 M.) Hulls Cove, the former home of Mme.
de Gregoire (p. 293). We may return via the so-called Breakneck Road
and Eagle Lake (6 M.); and we may extend the drive beyond Hulls Cove
to (2 M.) the Ovens (caves and archway ; visited by boat at high water, or
on foot at low water). — The so-called *Tw8nty-Two Mile Drive leads
via the Eagle Lake Road to (7 M.) the If. end of Somes Sound (p. 297) ; then
runs on the E. side of the Sound to (4V2 M.) North East Harbor; follows
the coast thence via Seal Harbor C^Sea Cliff Drive) to (7 M.) Otter Creek; and
returns to (51/2-61/2 M.) Bar Harbor via either the Gorge or the Ocean Drive
(see above). — Somesville (p. 297) is about 9 M. from Bar Harbor.
Short Steamboat Excursions may be made to Seal Harbor, N.E.
Harbor, 8.W. Harbor, Somesville, Winter Harbor (4 M. ; *Grindstone Lin,
from $ 4), Sorrento (p. 291), and Sullivan. The voyage Around the Island
(1 day) is recommended.
296 Route 37. MOUNT DESERT. N.E. Harbor.
Seal Harbor (Olencove, Seaside, $3-4), in a cove on the S. side
of the island (9 M. from Bar Harhor) , has one of the largest
beaches on the island. It is a good centre for walkers. Abont
2V2M. (road) to the N. is '^Jordan Pond, IV4M. long and V4-V2 M.
wide (tront and land-locked salmon fishing; boating), between Jordan
and Sargent Mts. on theW. and Pemetic Mt. (p. 295) on the E. At
its N. end rise the Buhhles (p. 295). Mt. Green (p. 295) and Sargent
Mt. (see below) are easily ascended from Seal Harbor.
North East Harbor is a narrow inlet, penetrating the S. coast
for 1 M. abont 2 M. to the W. of Seal Harbor, and the gronp of
cottages and hotels (Kimball Ho., from $ 5; Clifton Ho., from $ 4;
Rock End, from $4) that bears its name lies on the promontory
between it and Somes Sound. Like Seal Harbor and South West
Harbor, it is a favourite resort of those who prefer quieter and less
fashionable quarters than Bar Harbor offers. The steamboat-landing
is on the E. side of Somes Sound (see p. 297) Opposite the mouth
of N.E. Harbor is Bear Island (p. 293), and a little farther out
are Sutton Island and the two Cranberry Isles. At the head of the
cove, 11/2 M, from the steamboat- landing, lies the prettily-situated
Asticou (Asticou Inn, $ 3-5), at the base of Asticou Hill (view).
Sargent Mt. (1344 ft.), the highest hut one on the island, rises ahout
2 M. to the N. of Asticou. We follow the road or path leading If. to the
(i M.) Upper Hadlock Pond, diverge here to the right, and follow the path
on the E. side of the pond, crossing the brook near its head. Beyond
(1/4 hr.) a small waterfall the route to (3/4-I hr.) the top is indicated hy
'blazes' on the trees and by small cairns on the ledges. Sargent Mt. may
also be ascended on the S. side by a path diverging to the left from the
path to Jordan Pond (see below) and crossing Cedar Swamp Mt. The *View
includes a great part of the island, with the Bubbles, Green Mt., and
Pemetic to the E., and Browns Mt. and the hills beyond Somes Sound to
the W.; also Frenchman Bay, with Schoodic Mt. (Gouldsborou°h Hills)
on its farther shore, and the sea, with numerous islands. The descent may
be made on the N. by a path and wood-road leading to McFarlandMt. (761 ft.,
on the S.E. over Jordan Mt. to the foot of Jordan Pond, or on the E. by a
trail following the pretty Deer Brook to the head of Jordan Pond (see above).
In the last two cases we pass a pretty little lake near the top of Sargent Mt.
Another route leads by the ''Bluffs, rising from Jordan Pond below Jordan
Mt. The Giant Slide, on the W. side of Sargent Mt., 1/2 hr. from the road,
is a great slab of rock leaning against the mountain so as to form a kind
of archway. — From Asticou to Jordan Pond and Eagle Lake, see p. 295. —
Drives naay be taken to Bar Harlor (p. 294; $2 each), to C^ '^■) Somesville
(p. 297 ; 3 11/4 each), etc. Rowing and sailing trips are made to the above
me tioned islands and to >S. W. Harbor. Somes Sound may be visited by
steam-launch ($5-10).
South West Harbor (Claremont Ho., $ 3; Dirigo, $ 3, both near
the steamboat- wharf ; Stanley Ho., on the opposite side of the har-
bour, $21/2; Holmes Ho., open throughout the year), on the W. side
of the entrance to Somes Sound, is called at by all the regular
steamers. Boating, deep-sea fishing, and fine sea- views are its
chief attractions. About 3 M. to the S. is the Sea Wall, a curious
pebble ridge, 1 M. long and 15 ft. high. Off the harbour lies
Greening Island.
Somes Sound. MOUNT DESERT. 37. Route. 297
The road to (6 M.) Somesville (see below) runs to the N"., between Dog
Mt. (670 ft.) and Robinson Mt. (680 ft.) on the right and Beech Mt. (855 ft.)
and Carter Nubble (480 ft.) on the left. About I1/4 M. from the village, beyond
Norwood Cove, a road to the right runs to the S. of DogMt. and Flying Mt.
(280 ft.) to (1 M.) Fernald Point, on Somes Sound, believed to be the site
of the French colony of St. Sauveur (see p. 293). Farther on, the Somesville
road skirts ''Denning Pond (left) for (I3/4 M.) Somesville (see below). — Dog Mt.,
Beech Mt., and Flying Mt. are good points of view, easily ascended from
S.W. Harbor. — Favourite drives lead to (15 M.) Bar Harbor (p. 294), via
Somesville or Town Hill, and to Bass Harbor, 4 M. to the S.W.
Perhaps the finest boating excursion from S.W. Harbor is to Somes
Sound (see below), which may be conveniently made by steam-launch (to
Somesville and back in half-a-day). — A small steamer makes daily trips
from S. W. Harbor, Seal Harbor, and N. E. Harbor to Islesford (Little
Cranberry) and Great Cranberry Isle (fine surf at Deadman Point).
*Somes Sound runs into the S. part of Mt. Desert Island for
atont 6 M., with an average width of 1/2-I M. Its scenery is fine, and
no one should fail to ascend it hy small steamer or row-hoat (sailing
dangerous on account of sudden squalls).
As we enter the Sound proper, we have Fernald Point (see above) on
the left and Manchester Pt. (Indian Head Ho.) on the right. The finest point
on the fjord is ''Fagle Cliff, the wall-like front of Dog Mt. (to the left),
rising sheer from deep water to a height of 5-600 ft. (good echo). Farther
on, between Robinson Mt. (left) and Browns Mt. (right), the Sound narrows
to 1/3 M., expanding again higher up. To the right opens a fine view of
Sargent Mt. (p. 296). To the left are Granite Quarries, which supplied the
material used in the piers of Brooklyn Bridge (p. 40). At the head of the
Sound we enter Somes Harbor and reach the village of Somesville.
Somesville (Somes Ho., $ 2-3), the oldest settlement on the is-
land, is a small village, frequented mainly hy driving parties from
Bar Harbor, S.W. Harhor, or N.E. Harbor, who ascend Beech Hill
(see below), dine or sup at the hotel (famous for broiled chicken
and 'popovers' ; meals $ 1), and return in the afternoon or evening.
Beech HiU (ca. 500 ft.), 2 M. to the S.W. of Somesville (road to within
10 min. of the top), commands a fine *View, with Denning Pond (see above)
lying sheer below its precipitous E. face. To the W. is Great Pond (4 M.
long), beyond which rises the double-peaked Western Mt. (1073 and 971 ft.).
38. From Portland to the Eangeley Lakes.
Comp. Map, p. 232.
a. VIS, Lewiston and Farmington.
130 M. Maine Centeal Eailboad to (83 M.) Farmington in 31/4 hrs.
Naeeow Gauge Raileoad thence to (18 M.) Phillips and (47 M.) Rangeley
in 21/2-31/4 hrs. (through-fare §3.90).
From. Portland to (11 M.) Cumberland Junction, see p. 289. Our
train diverges here to the left and runs parallel with the Grand Trunk
Railway, which it intersects at (29 M.) Danville Junction (see
p. 303). Coaches run hence to (5 M.) Poland Springs (p. 298). —
32 M. Rumford Junction is the point of divergence of R. 88b. —
At (35 m.) Auburn (Elm Ho., $2-21/25 12,950 inhab.) we cross the
Androscoggin, obtaining a good view of the Lewiston Falls (52 ft.).
Baedeker's United States. 4th Edit. 19
298 Route 38. POLAND SPRINGS. From Portland to
Jnst across the river is (36 M.) Lewiston (D« Witt , $ 2 V2-3V2 '
Exchange, $ 2-2^2)) tl^© second city in Maine, an important manu-
facturing place (cotton and woollen goods, etc.), with 23,761 in-
hahitants. The City Hall and Bates College (440 students) are
among the chief buildings. To Brunswick, see p. 289.
The train now follows the Androscoggin for some distance. To
the right are the buildings of the Maine Agricultural Society. —
47 M. Leeds Junction, where the Androscoggin Division of the Maine
Central Railway, which we follow, diverges to the left.
The train to Farmington runs through a pleasant hilly country,
following the general course of the Androscoggin , which it nears at
(66 M.) Livermore Falls. From (76 M.) Wilton coaches run to the
N.W. to (13 M.) Weld Pond, frequented by trout-fishers. At (82 M.)
West Farmington we cross the Sandy River on a long curved trestle.
— 83 M. Farmington [Stoddard Ho. $2), a viUage of 1250 inhab.,
where we change carriages for Rangeley, A tablet here marks
'Fewacres', the home of the Rev. Jacob Abbott (1803-79), author
of the 'RoUo Books'.
The narrow-gauge Sandy River Railway runs through a pic-
turesque district, with Blue Mt. to the left, to (11 M.) Strong, for
(15 M.) Kingfield, (25 M.) Carrabasset, and (31 M.) Bigelow (stage
hence to Eustis, see below). From (18 M.) Phillips (Elwood Cottage,
$ 2y2)» ^e continue by the Phillips & Rangeley Railway. —
From (34 M.) Eustis Junction a branch-line runs to (10 M.) Greens
Farm, whence a stage plies to (5 M.) Stockton and Eustis. 41 M.
Dead River (Dead River Ponds Camps, $2) is another starting-
point for the Dead River Region, a popular angling district, with
Big Spencer Lake and innumerable smaller sheets of water. —
47 M. (130 M. from Portland) Eangeley [Rangeley Lake Ho., from
$ 2V2), on the N.E. bank of Rangeley Lake (p. 299). To the right
rises Saddleback Mt. (4000 ft. ; *View).
b. Vi§. Bumford Falls.
122 M. Maine Centeal Railroad to Oquossoc in 4V4-5 hrs. (through-
fare §3.90, parlor-car 75 c.; from Boston 5 6.45). This route is standard
gauge all the way, and through-carriages run from Boston to Oquossoc.
From Portland to (32 M.) Rumford Junction, see p. 297. Our
line runs towards the N., crossing the G.T.Ry. [B.. 41) near (36 M.)
Elmwood Farm. — 38 M. Poland Springs [800 ft. ; *Poland Springs
Ho., from $5, 450 beds; Mansion Ho., from $31/2), the chief in-
land watering-place of Maine, with good mineral water and golf
links. The springs are 2 M. from the station (carr. 50 c.). Adjoin-
ing the Poland Springs House is a Library ^' Art Gallery (periodical
exhibitions). Stages run from the station to (3 M.) Wilson Springs
(The Wilson, from $ 3). — 40 M. Poland (Summit Spring Hotel,
$ 3-5) ; 43 M. Mechanic Falls, also on the G. T. Ry. (p. 303); 57 M.
the Rangeley Lakes. RANGELEY LAKES. 38. Route. 299
Buckfield. Beyond (64 M.) Hartford the line begins to ascend
steadily. To the left lies Lake Anasagunticook. — 69 M. Canton is
the junction of a hranch-line to (11 M.) Livermore, on the E. hank
of the Androscoggin, and also a station on the M. C. R. E. At (71 M.)
Oilbertville we approach the Androscoggin, which flows to the right.
77 M. Peru; 81 M. Dixfteld.
85 M. Eumford Falls (600 ft.; Hotel Rumford, $2-21/2), an
active little town, with 3770 inhah. and manufactures of woollen
goods, chemicals, and paper. It owes its importance to the Falls of
the Androscoggin, which descend 180 ft. in three leaps and are said
to have a capacity of 40,000 horse-power. Coaches run hence to
(15 M.) Bryant's Pond (p. 303) and to (18 M.) Andover (Twitchells,
Glenellis, $ 2), whence connection is made hy huckhoard with the
foot of Lake Welokenebacook (see below).
The line runs towards the N., passing some small stations.
113 M. Bemis (Camp Bemis, $ 2-3) lies at the foot of Lake Moo-
selucmaguntic (see below) and is regularly called at by the steamers.
— 120 M. South Rangeley and (122 M.) Oquossoc (Mountain Yiew
Ho., $2-3) are both steamboat-stations on Rangeley Lake.
The*Eangeley or Androscoggin Lakes, a group of half-a-dozen
small lakes, 1200-1500 ft. above the sea, connected with each other
by water-ways, and covering a total area of about 80 sq. M., are a
veritable sportsman's paradise and also offer the attraction of beau-
tiful scenery and pure air. Landlocked salmon and large trout
abound in the lakes, and moose, deer, and other game in the forests.
There are numerous hotels and camps round the lakes, and expert
guides ($ 3-4 a day) are easily procured. Several clubs for fishing
and hunting have their headquarters here. Mosquitoes and black flies
are not troublesome after July. Warm clothing is desirable. Small
steamboats afford almost continuous passage from Rangeley Lake to
Lake Umbagog (see below). For other routes to the lakes, see p. 303.
Rangeley Lake or Lake Oquossoc, the north-easternmost of the group,
is 9 M. long and 1-3 M. wide. From Rangeley (p. 298) a steamer plies
to South Rangele (see above), Oquossoc (see above), and the Outlet, at the
foot (W. end) of the lake, IV2 M. to the N. of wtiich is Indian Rock, with
the headquarters of the Oquossoc Angling Association. — Lake Mooseluc-
maguntic (8 M. X 2 M.) is next in order, with inns or camps at Haines Land-
ing ($2-3), Bald Mountain Camps ($ 2-3), The Birches ($ 2V2-3V2), The Barker
(5 2V2-3V2), Bemis (see above), and the ITpper Bam (S. end; $ 2). Connected
with this lake on the If . is the smaller Lake Gupsupiic. — Below the Upper
Dam are Lakes Molechunkamunk {Upper Richardson; 5M. xl-2M.) and
Welokenebacook {^Lower Richardson ; 5M. Xi^/zM.). From the S. arm (hotel)
of the latter to Andover, see above. — From the Middle Dam (Anglers'
Retreat, $ 2), on the W. side of Lake Welokenebacook, a road leads to
(5 M.) Lake Umbagog (1256 ft.), 9 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, at the S. end
of which lies the Lakeside Hotel ($ 2). The White Mts. (p. 320) are visible
from this lake. Coach hence to Bethel, see p. 303; steamer to Errol Dam, see
p. 303; coach from Errol Dam to Berlin, see p. 303; to Golebrook, see p. 306.
Steamers also run from Lakeside and Errol Dam up the Magalloway
River to (30 M.) Lake Parmachenee (Camp Caribou) another favourite
sporting resort, 2500 ft. above the sea.
19*
300
39. From Portland to Moosehead Lake.
a. Via Oakland.
169 M. Maine Centkal Raileoad to (78 M.) Oakland in 2V2 hrs. ;
SoMKESET Railway thence to (91 M.) Kineo in 31/2 hrs. (througli-fare $5,205
parlor-car 3 1). This is tlie shortest and most direct line from Boston to
Moosehead Lake (277 M., in 9-10 hrs.; fare § 7.50; sleeper $ 2, parlor-car $ 11/2).
From Portland to (47 M.) Leeds Junction (for the line to the
Rangeley Lakes), see pp. 297, 298. We continue to follow the main
line. 59 M. Maranacook (Mohican Inn, Sir Charles Hotel, $2^3)1
on the charming lake of that name. 69 M. Belgrade (The Belgrade,
from $ 3), with the two heautif ul lakes of that name (Great Lake
and Long Lake) to the right (trout, bass, pickerel, perch).
At (78 M.) Oakland the Somerset Railway ('Kineo Short Line')
diverges to the left (N.) from the M.C.R.R., which goes on to (6 M.)
Waterville, where it joins the route described at p. 290. The next
station on our line is (92 M.) Norridgewock (Duinnebasset Inn),
on the Kennebec, the birthplace of Dr. Minot J. Savage. — We now
follow the picturesque valley of the Kennebec, crossing and re-
crosslng the stream. 100 M. Madison^ with wood-pulp, paper, and
woollen mills; 113 M. Solon, with the Carratuuk FaUs. 118 M.
Austin Junction^ for (2 M.) Bingham (hotel), a convenient centre
from which to reach Carry Pond, Rowe Pond, and other good fish-
ing-camps. Farther on we skirt the long and narrow Lake Moxie.
143 M. Lake Moxie Station ; 154 M. Indian Pond^ a great fishing
centre; 153 M. Mike Morris (Camp, $2), on the 'East Outlet', i.e.
the E. source of the Kennebec, issuing from Moosehead Lake (comp.
p. 301). — At (163 M.) Somerset Junction we pass under the Can.
Pac. Railway (comp. Baedeker's Canada).
169 M. Kineo (Rockwood, $2), the terminus of the railway,
situated near the middle of the W. side of Moosehead Lake (p. 301).
Steamers for Mt. Kineo House (p. 301 ; fare 25 c.) and other points
connect with the trains.
b. Yik Bangor.
228 M. Maine Central Railkoad to (137 M.) Bangor in 4 hrs.; Bangok
<fe Aeoostook Railroad thence to (91 M.) Greenville in 3V4 hrs. (through-
fare $5.50; parlor-car $1, sleeper §2). From Boston to Moosehead Lake
by this route in 10-12 hrs. (fare $8.50; parlor-car $172, sleeper $21/2).
From Portland to (137 M.) Bangor^ see pp. 289, 290. The train
now returns along the tracks of the M. C. R. R. to (142 M.) Northern
Maine Junction (p. 290), where the Bangor & Aroostook Railroad
diverges to the right (N.). At (167 M.) South Lagrange we unite ,
with the line coming from Oldtown (p. 290). At (179 M.) Milo
Junction or Stewarthurst, with the workshops of the B. & A. R. R. ,
the GreenviUe branch diverges to the left (N.) from the main line
to Van Buren (see p. 290). — 192 M. Dover ^' Foxcroft is the
junction of the line from Newport aud Dexter (see p. 290), which
MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 39. Route. 301
affords an alternative ronte from Bangor to Greenville. — 207 M.
Monsoon Junction.
228 M. Greenville {Moosehead Inn, $ 21/2), a small town at the
S. end of Moosehead Lake (see below), is also a station of the
Canadian Paoiflc Railway between Montreal and St. John (comp.
Baedeker^ s Canada). It is the starting-point of most of the steamers
which ply on the lake.
♦Moosehead Lake, the largest in Maine, with 400 M. of shore-
line (35 M. long, 1-15 M. wide), lies abont 1010 ft. above the sea
and is drained by the Kennebec River. Its waters abonnd in lake-
tront and other fish, and the forests surrounding it are well stocked
with moose, caribou, deer, and ruffled grouse. Black flies and mos-
quitoes are very troublesome here in June and July. In clear weather
Mt.Katahdin (p. 291) is visible to theN.E. from some parts of the lake.
From Greenville a small steamer (fare to Mt. Kineo 75 c), connecting
with the regular trains, plies in summer to Deer /siand (Capen's Hotel, $2-3)
and to (17 M.) Mt. Kineo (1760 ft.; 'View; ascent facilitated by some rather
giddy steps), which projects into the lake on the E. side so as to narrow
it down to a channel 1 M. across. The *Mt. Kineo House (from $ 4; 500 beds)
is a favourite resort of anglers and their families. Adjacent is a small
golf-course (9 holes). Opposite Mt. Kineo is Kineo, the terminus of the
Somerset Railway (p.3''0), with which it connects by a regular ferry-steamer.
Also on the "W. bank of the lake, at the point where the W. branch of the
Kennebec issues from it (comp.p 300), are 'Oilberfs West Outlet Camps (5 2-3),
one of the best of the comftrrably equipped 'hotel -camps' th it dot the
shore of the lake. — Beyond Mt. Kineo the steamer goes on to (l8 M.) the N.
end of the lake, calling either at the North East Carry .(Hotel; $ 2-3), or at
the North West Curry (Seboomuc House, $ 2-3), or at both. — Fnim the
N. E. Carry a portage of 2 M. brings us tn the upper waters of the Penobscot
River (p. 2:tl; W, branch), whence the enterprising traveller or >portsman
may proceed by canoe (with guide) via the W. Branch to N. Twin Lake
and Norcro<!s (p. 291; 8J M.), or by the Allagash to the St. John River (Fort
Kent, p. 291, 150 M. ; Van Buren, p. 291, 200 BI.), or ^y the E branch
to Grindstone (p. 291; 120 M.). From tht^ N.W. Carry canoe-trips are made
by the W. and N. branches of the Penobscot to (ca. 55 M.) the S. branch
of the St John and then down that river to the (85 M.) Allagash, Fort
Kent, or Van Buren.
From Greenville small steamers also ply to various points on Sugar
Island and in Lily Bay.
Numerous attractive short trips by canoe or boat may be made
from the different resorts on the lake up the various streams which
flow into it.
40. From Boston to Eastport and St. John by Sea.
Campobello. Grand Manan.
Steamers of the Eastern Steamship Co. (International Division) leave
Boston twice weekly for (280 M.) aS^. John direct (18 hrs. ; fare $ 5; stateroom
$ 1-5; meals extra), and thrice weekly for St. John via Portland (8 hrs.;
fare $ 1.'25), Eastport (li hrs.; fare $ 4.75), and Lubec. The direct steamers
usually leave Union Wharf at noon, while the others start at 9 a.m. The
latest informatii'n should be obtained from the agents of the cnmpanj
(Union Wharf and 8^ Washington Street) or from the daily papers. Baggage
for Canada is examined on board the steamer, between Eastport and St. John.
302 Route 40. EASTPORT.
Railway Route from Boston to St. John, see p. 290; to Eastport, see
p. 291. — The latter may also be reached by railway to St. Andrews
(p. 290), and thence by the steamer down the St. Croix (15 M.). For details,
see Baedeker'' £ Canada.
Boston Harbour, see p. 274. The direct steamer (see p. 301)
soon passes out of sight of land, and it is only on the longest days of
summer that the coast of Maine becomes dimly visible hefore night-
fall. Grand Manan (see helow) lies to the left, but is passed in the
dark. The steamer then ascends through the Bay of Fundy (comp.
Baedekers Canada^). As we enter St. John Harbour, we pass Partridge
Island on the right, while the suburb of Carleton is seen to the left.
280 M. St. Jolin, see p. 290.
The steamer via Eastport, on leaving Boston Harbour, turns to
the left and steers to the N. to (110 M.) Portland (p. 287). Beyond
Portland it follows a course similar to that of the Bar Harbor steamers
(see p. 292), and after passing Mt. Desert, continues along the coast,
with Grand Manan (see below) to the right. When the tide serves,
the steamer reaches Eastport by the Narrows^ between Lubec on the
left and the island of Campobello (see below) on the right. At the
entrance of this channel is Quoddy Head Light (1.), marking the
E. limit of the United States. When the tide is unfavourable, we
pass outside Campobello and approach Eastport from the E., with
Beer Island to our right.
Lubec (Hillside Ho., $ 2-3; Merchants'' Hotel, $ 2), at which the steamers
call in summer, is a pleasant little watering-place. The Young Men's
Christian Associations of New England hold encampments at (7M.) iV. JAibec
(The Nemattano, $2V2-3) in summer.
180 M. (from Portland) Eastport (Exchange, $2), the eastern-
most settlement of the United States, with 5311 inhab. and an aban-
doned fort, is finely situated on a small island in Passamaquoddy
Bay., connected with the mainland by a bridge. Its inhabitants are
mostly fishermen and keepers of summer boarding-houses.
Steam Ferries run at frequent intervals to (3 M.) Ltibec (see above)
and (21/2 M.) Campobello (ste below). A steamer runs regularly to (ISM.;
2 hrs.) Grand Manan (see below), while river-steamers ply to St. Andrews
(see above) and up the St. Croix to St. Stephen, RoUnston, and Calais (comp.
Baedeker's Canada).
Campobello {Tyn-y-Coed Hotel, with its annex the Tyn-y-Maes, from $ 3;
The Oicen, from $ 2), a picturesque island between Passamaquoddy Bay and
the Bay of Fundy, just on the Canadian (New Brunswick) side of the
international boundary, is now much frequented in summer by Xew
Yorkers, Bostonians, and others. For a detailed account of its attractions,
see Baedeker's Canada.
Grand Manan (Marathon Ho., $ IV2), another Canadian island, about 16M.
long and 3-6 M. wide, lies at the entrance to the Bay of Fundy. 9 M. from
the American coast. It is also a frequented summier-resort, and some of
its cliffs and headlands are very fine
On leaving Eastport the steamer once more heads for the E.,
crosses the neck of Passamaquoddy Bay, and steers through the Bay
of Fundy. The coast of New Brunswick is in sight to the left all
the way to St. John (3 hrs.).
60 M. (from Eastport) St. John, see p. 290.
303
41. From Portland to Montreal and Quebec.
a. ViS, the Grand Trunk Railway.
Grand Tkunk Railwat to (297 M.) Montreal in 11-12 hrs. (fare $ TVs;
drawing-room car $ IV2, sleeping -berth $2); to (318 M.) Quelec in 12-
15 hrs. (fares $ 81/2, $ IV2, $ 2). This route forms a pleasant approach to
Canada, skirting the N. margin of the White Mts. (p. 320', views to the
left). From Boston to Canada by this route takes 3-4 hrs. more.
Portland^ see p. 287. After leaving the main station the train
stops at (2 M.) the junction with the B. & M. R. R. and then crosses
(3 M.) the Presumpscot River (*View of Casco Bay to the right).
At (11 M.) Yarmouth Jurhction we intersect the M. C. R. R. (comp
p. 289) and then turn to the left (N.W.). As far as (271/4 M.)
Danville Junction the M. C. R. R. (see p. 304) runs parallel to our
line (to the left). — We now again cross the M. C. R. R. and turn
towards the W. 291/2 ^' Lewiston Junction, for Auburn and (6 M.)
Lewiston (p. 298) ; 36 M. Mechanic Falls (p. 298) ; 47 M. South Paris,
for (2V2 M.) Paris Hill and for (IV2M.) Norway (trolley-line).
From (62 M.) Bryant's Pond (700 ft.) coaches run to (15 M.) Rumford
Falls (p. 299) and to (21 M.) Andover (p. 299).
We have now fairly left the level coast districts and entered
the mountains. — 70 M. Bethel (1000 ft. ; Prospect Hotel, $2-4),
a small summer-resort, with mineral springs, pleasantly situated
above the 'intervales' of the Androscoggin.
Coaches (fare $ 21/2) run regularly from Bethel to (26 M.) Lakeside
Hotel, at the S. end of Lake Urribagog (p. 299). The road leads through wild
and picturesque scenery, ascending the valleys of the Androscoggin and
Bear River and affording distant views of the White Mts. (p. 320).
Beyond Bethel we obtain numerous fine views of the White Mts.
(p. 320; to the left), while the Androscoggin runs on the right.
Near (86 M.) Shelburne (725 ft.), in New Hampshire, we have
views of (1.) Mt. Madison and Mt. Moriah and (r.) Mt. Hayes.
91 M. Gorham (810 ft. ; meal-station), see p. 324.
Beyond Gorham our train turns to the N.W., intersects the B. &
M. R. R. , and ascends along the Androscoggin, affording a good view
of Mt. Adams to the left, to (98 M.) Berlin (Revere Ho., $ 21/2 ;
Berlin Ho., $ 2), where the river pours tumultuously through a narrow
pass, descending 200 ft. within a mile. Coaches run hence to (22 M.)
Errol Dam (Umbagog Ho., $ 2), whence steamers ascend the Andros-
coggin to (3 M.) Lake Umbagog (p. 299).
Fkom Berlin to Whitefield, 29 M., railway in IV4 hr. (fare $1.04).
Comp. Map, p. 320 — This line crosses the Grand Trunk Railway at (5 M.)
Gorham (see above) and runs to the W. along the Moose River. lOM. Randolph
(p. 325); 12 M. Appalachia (p. 325); 15 M. Bowman (p. 325); ITi/a M. Bop
(or Bois) Mountain; 19 M. Jefferson Highlands. From (21 M.) Cherry Mountain
a branch runs to the right to (3 M.) Jefferson (p. 330). 24 M. Jefferson Junction ;
26 M. Hazen Junction. — 29 M. Whitefield (p. 306).
The train now leaves the Androscoggin , which turns to the N.
Beyond (103 M.) Copperville (1080 ft. ; view) we follow the Upper
304 Route 41. SEBAGOLAKE. From Portland
Ammonoosuc to (122 M.) Oroveton (Melcher Ho., $ 2), the junction
of the Boston & Maine R. R. (to the White Mts. and Wells Junction;
see p. 318). This is the starting-point for an ascent of the Percy
Peaks (3150 and 3335 ft. ; 2V2-3V2 iirs.). The line now passes into
the Connecticut Valley (to the right, the white Percy Peaks). From
(134 M.) North Stratford, where onr line intersects the Maine Cen-
tral R. R. (see p. 306), coaches run to (I1/2M.) Brunswick Springs.
We now cross the Connecticut, enter Vermont (the 'Green Mountain
State'), and run through forest. 149 M. Island Pond (1500ft.;
Stewart Ho., $2; Rail. Restaurant), with the frontier custom-house
(baggage examined).
At (165 M.) Norton Mills we enter Canada. Hence, via (196 M.)
Sherlrooke and (221 M.) Richmond, to (297 M.^ Montreal and (318 M.)
Quebec, see Baedeker^s Canada.
b. Vi§, tbe Maine Central Sailroad.
Comp. Maps, pp. 232, 320.
To (286 M.) Montreal in 12-16 hrs. (fare $71/2; paror-car $ IV2, berth
$2); to (321 M.) Quebec in 14V2 hra. (fares $81/2, $11/2, $2). This line
traverses the centre of the White Mts. (seats to the right ; observation-cars
attached to the trains in the mountain-district). Through parlor and sleep-
ing cars run from Portland to Montreal and Quebec.
Portland, see p. 287. The train starts from the Union Station,
crosses the Presumpscot twice, and runs towards the W. 6 M.
Cumberland Mills, with manufactures of paper. — 17 M. Sebago
Lake Station, at the S. end of Sebago Lake (265 ft. ; Sebago Lake
Ho., $2-3), a pleasant, islet-dotted sheet of water, 13 M. long, 10 M.
wide, and 100 ft. deep in its deepest part.
Steamers ply from this point across Sebago Lake, through the cork-
screw-like Songo River (6 M.), and across Long Lake (13 M. long and 2 M.
wide), to (32 m.) Harrison (Elm B.o . . H.irrison Ho., $2; there and back in
8 hrs.; a pleasant trip). The chief intermediate stnpping-place on this trip
is at Naples {'Bap of Naples Inn, $3-4; Lake Ho., $ IV2 2), charmingly
situated on the so-called Bay of Naples, the S. basin of Long Lake. Bridgton
Landing is the station for (1 M.) Bridgton (The Bridgton, $2V2-4; Cumber-
land Ho., Stoneleigh, Burnell's, $ 2), another frequented resorf. Bridgton
is the usual starting-point for an ascent of (10 W.) Pleasant Mt, ('2020 ft.;
'Mt. Pleasant Ho., on the top, from $ 4V2), which commands a splendid
*Panorama of the White Mts. — From Harrison coaches run to (11 M.)
South Paris (p. 303) and to (5 M.) Waterford (Lake Ho., $ 2), the birth-
place of C. F. Browne {'■Artemus Ward" ; 1834-67). This district has been
celebrated by Longfellow and Whittier, and Hawthorne spent his early
boyhood at Raymond, near the head of the lake.
Beyond (25 M.) Steep Falls we follow the valley of the Saeo, the falls
of which are seen near (34 M.) West Baldwin. From (37 M.) Bridgton
Junction a narrow-gauge line runs to (16 M.) Bridgton, on Long
Lake (see above). — 50 M. Fryeburg (420 ft.; Arguenot, $2), a
summer-resort, is 10 M. to the W. ofPleasantMt. (see above). Daniel
Webster taught in the Academy here. — We now enter New Hamp-
shire (p. 284). Beyond (55 M.) Conway Centre we cross the Saco,
to Quebec. LANCASTER. 41. Route. 305
and enter the district of the White Mountains (E. 43). 60 M. North
Conway (520 ft. ; see p. 321), the jnnctiou of the Boston & Maine
R. R. We now ascend more rapidly. To the right are Middle Mt.,
Hurricane Mt., and Mt. Kearsarge (pp. 322, 323); to the left, the
long ridge of Moat Mt. (p. 323), with the 'Ledges'. 62 V2 M. Inter-
vale (p. 322). The train traverses the "beautiful Conway 'intervales'.
From (65 M.) Olen Station coaches run to (3 M.) Jackson (see
p. 323). The train turns to the left and crosses the Saco. Beyond
(71 M.) Bartlett (Bartlett Ho., $2; Rail. Restaurant), where an
'observation-car' is added to the train, we twice cross the Sac , then
turn to the N., and cross Sawyer's River (station) and Nancy\'< Brook.
To the left rises the triple-peaked Mt. Carrigain (4647 ft.). 78 M.
Bemis. To the right are Mt. Crawford (3100 ft.), Mt. Resolution
(3400 ft.), and the Giant's Stairs (3423 ft.) ; to the left is Mt. Nancy
(3810 ft.). — Th line now hens to the N.W. and enters the
famous * Crawford or White Mountain Notch, a narrow defile,
about 3-4 M. long, with the towering walls of Mt. Willey (4260 ft.)
on the left and Mt. Webster (3876 ft.) on the right. The train
ascends rapidly (1 : 44), at a height of 100-350 ft. above the river,
and affords, perhaps, better /ews than the road (comp. p. 325;
best views to the right). The deep ravine below (82 M.) Franken-
stein Cliff (stat.) is crossed by a dizzy trestle, 80 ft. high and 500 ft.
long. To the right (ahead) we have a good view of Mt. Washington.
The Willey Brook is crossed by another lofty trestle (80 ft. high).
To the right are the Silver and Flume Cascades (p. 326). The train
skirts the E. slope of Mt. Willard (2786 ft.; p. 326), leaves the
Notch by its narrow Gateway (p. 325), and reaches the plateau on
which lies the (85 M.) Crawford House (1900 ft. ; p. 325). We now
begin the descent, with the Ammonoosuc to the r ght. Near (89 M.)
Bretton Woods (p. 326) we cross the Ammonoosuc and begin to
descend along its right bank. — At (90 M.) Fabyan's (p. 327) we con-
nect with the railway to the summit of Mt. Washington (see p. 331).
91 M. White Mt. House. Passengers for the line, via Bethlehem
Junction, to Profile House (p. 328), Bethlehem Street, and Maplewood
also change carriages here. 94 M. Twin Mt. House (p. 327). We
skirt the shoulder of Cherry Mt.
iOO M.. Quebec Junction, where the Quebec (Upper Coos) Division
of the Maine Central R. R. diverges to the right, connecting with
the Canadian Pacific and the Quebec Central Railways.
From Quebec Junction to Quebec, 221 M., in 10 hrs. We cross the
B. dc M. R. R. at (2 M.) Jefferson Junction (4 M. from Jefferson, p. 330),
pass Cherry Pond, and reach (5 M.) Bailey's (for Jefferson, p. 330), situated
on a spur of Mt. Starr King (3915 ft.), which rises to the right. The rail-
way skirts the Israel River. — 12 M. Lancaster (870 ft. ; Lancaster Ho.,
from $21/2; Rail. Restaurant), also on theB. & M R. R. (p. 318), pleasantly
situated on the Israel River, with 31VlO inhab., is a favourite summer-
resort and commands distant views of the White Mts. Mt. Prospect (20 12 ft.;
Prospect Ho., $ 3), 2 M. to the S.E., is a good point of view. To the
E. are the Pilot Mts. Jefferson (p. 330) is 7 M. to the E.S.E. — We cow
pass from the White Mt. district and enter the Coos District. The train
306 Route 42. CONCORD. From Boston
again crosses the B. <k M. R. R. at Cogs Junction, and farther on twice
crosses the Connecticut, which here forms the boundary between Vermont
and New Hampshire. At (33 M.) North Stratford our line intersects the
Grand Trunk Railway (see p. 304). We ascend to the N. through the valley
of the Connecticut. From (46 M.) Colebrook (1030 ft.; Hampshire Inn, $3-45
Monadnoek Ho., $ 2-3) an automobile stage runs to (10 M.) the *Dixville
Notch (The Balsams, $ 4), a fine ravine, 2 M. long, with its most striking
points (Table Rock, etc.) marked by sign-j)0Sts. Coaches run from the Notch
to (11 M.) JErrol Dam (p. 303). From (o3 M.) West Stewartson stages run
to the (15 M.) Connecticut Lakes (2550 ft.; Metalluk Lodge, $2; Idlewild
Camp, on the second lake, S IVa-S), the source of the Connecticut.
At (55 M.) Beecher''s Falls we enter Canada (luggage examined). Hence
to (221 M.) Qtiebec, see Baedeker's Canada.
From Quebec Junction the main line descends along the Am-
monoosuc to (104 M.) Whitefield (p. 318) and (107 M.) Scotfs,
where it crosses the B. & M. R. R. It then crosses the Connec-
ticut and enters Vermont. At (110 M.) Lunenburg (Heights Hotel,
$ 1V2-'^) we pass on to the St. Johnsbury & Lake Champlain
R. R. Beyond (118 M.) Miles Pond we follow the Passumpsic to
(133 M.) St. Johnsbury (p. 318), where we join the main route of the
B. & M. R. R. to Canada. Thence to (286 M.) Montreal, see R. 42c.
42. From Boston to Montreal.
Comp. Maps, pp. 274, 232.
a. VIS. Butland and Sorlington.
830 M. Boston & JIaine Railroad (Fitchbukg Division) from Boston
to (114 M.) Bellows Falls in 33/4-4 hrs. ; Rctland Railroad from Bellows
Falls to (186 M.) St. John's in b^/4-l hrs. ; Canadian Pacific Railway thence to
(dOM..) Montreal in 3/4-I t>r. (through-fare $9; parlor-car $ IV2, sleeper $2).
Boston, see p. 253. Leaving the North Union Station (p. 253), the
train crosses the Charles, affording a view to the right of the Bunker
Hill Monument (p. 273). At the State Prison (right) the line wheels
to the left (W.) and passes through Somerville (69,272 inhab. in
1905). To the left lies Cambridge (p. 270), where we have a glimpse
of the Harvard College buildings. — 10 M. Waltham, a city of
(1905) 26,282 inhab., with a State Armoury, cotton-mills, and the
works of the Waltham Watch Co. (producing ca. 1,0( 0,000 machine-
made watches annually). To the right is Prospect Hill (480 ft.). —
13 M. Kendal Green is the station for Weston, with golf-links and
the country homes of many Bostonians. Farther on we pass Walden
Pond (right), a favourite haunt of Thoreau (1817-62; see 'Walden'),
but now frequented by picnic parties instead of recluses.
20 M. Concord. ~ The Colonial (PI. a; A, 2), from $ 21/2. — Tea
House, oppnsite the post-office, with bedrooms. — A Carriage (fixed tariflF)
may be hired at the station and is often desirable in view of the scattered
positions tif the chief points of interest.
Concord, a village with (1905) 5421 inhab., situated on the Con-
cord River, here formed by the junction of the Sudbury and the Assabet,
is of abiding interest as the home of Hawthorne and Emerson, Thoreau
to Montreal.
CONCORD.
42. Route. 307
and the Alcotts. It may be fittingly described as the American
Weimar or Stratford-on-Avon and has kept its literary association
less tainted by commercialism than either of these places.
Comp. 'The Story of Concord', told by Concord Writers (1908).
On leaving the Fitchburg Railroad Station (PL A, 2) we proceed
to the left along Thoreau Street to Main Street, which we follow to
the right. On the left are several interesting honses of the Re-
volutionary period and some of the finest elms in the town. To
Aragner&Iiebes.Xeipzi^
the right, where Sudbury Street joins Main St., stands the Free
Public Library (PL 5; A, 2), containing many interesting auto-
graphs. Following Main St., we reach the village centre and (just
beyond) the Common (PI. A, 2\ whence several streets radiate. Here
stands (on the right) the old Wright Tavern (PL 14), where the
British officers were quartered on the morning of the C6ncord fight.
If we follow Lexington Street to the right, which was the route
of the British retreat in 1775 (see p. 308), we pass (on the right)
the First Parish Church (PI. A, 2) and reach (2 min. ; to the left)
the house of the Concord Antiquarian Society (PL 1 ; A, B, 2), with
an interesting museum (small fee). Farther on, at the point where
Lincoln St. diverges, stands the white House of R. W. Emerson
(PI. 4; B, 2), still occupied by his daughter. Here the 'Sage of
308 Route 42. CONCORD. From Boston
Concord' was visited by Fredrika Bremer, Margaret Fuller (Conn-
tess d'Ossoli), etc. A little farther on, to the left, is Orchard House
(PI. 9; B, 2), long the home of the Alcott Family, of which Louisa
M. Alcott (1833-88), a thor of 'Little Women', is the most widely
known member. Adjacent is the bnilding used by the Concord
School of Philosophy (Pi. 10 5 B, 2), which was established by A. Bron,-
sonAfcotf (1799-1888) in 1879 and counted Emerson, Ben. Peirce,
Dr. W, T. Harris, and Col. T. W. Higginson among its lecturers.
The next house (left) is The Wayside (PI. 13; B, 2), the home of
Nathaniel Hawthorne in 1852-64, with the tower-study in which
he wrote 'Septimius Felton' and other works. The 'Concord Grape'
originated in the garden of Grapevine Cottage (PI. 6; B, 2), just
beyond The Wayside.
We now return to the Common mentioned at p. 307 and follow
Monument Street to the N., crossing the Lowell branch of the B. & M.
R. R. and reaching (12 min. ; to the left) the *01d Manse (PI. A, 1),
built for the Rev. Wm. Emerson in 1765 and still owned and
occupied by his wife's descendants by her second husband, the Rev,
Dr. Ripley. R. W. Emerson, a grandson of the Rev. Wm. Emerson,
spent part of his early life here, and in the study over the dining-
room wrote 'Nature'. In the same room, Hawthorne, who later
occupied the house for a short time, wrote his 'Mosses from an Old
elanse'. Adjoining the grounds of the Old Manse is the avenue
Mading to the bridge over the Concord River, where the 'minute-
men' of the neighbourhood encountered the British soldiers on
April 19th, 1775, and 'where the embattled farmers stood and
fired the shot heard round the world'. Beyond the bridge is a fine
commemorative statue of the *Minute Man (PL 8; A, 1), by Dan.
C. French. The continuation of Monument St. leads across the river
to (10 min.) Punkatasset Hill, whence, at the highest point of the
road, there is a charming view of the river and country side.
Bedford Street, running to the E. from the Common, leads to
(10 min.) *Sleepy Hollow Cemetery (PI. B, 1, 2), one of the most
romantic burial-grounds in America. Among the illustrious dead
buried here are Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803-82; grave marked by
a huge block of pink quartz), Nathaniel Hawthorne (1804-64; grave
surrounded by a low hedge of arbor vitae), Henry Thoreau (comp.
p. 306), and the Alcotts (see above). The Melvin Monument is by
D. C. French (1908). — HillBurying Ground^Fl. A, 2), in Lexington
St., facing the Common, and another old burying-ground in Main
St. near the village centre, contain some curious gravestones of the
early settlers and several quaint inscriptions (such as that of the
negro, John Jack, in the former). The Concord rivers are very pictur-
esque, and a canoe trip on one of them may fitly wind up the visit.
A line runs from Concord to (10 M.) Lexington (Ruxsell Eo., $2-3; also
reacted direct from Boston by the Boston <fe Maine R. E., 11 M., or by
electric car), where the first battle between the British and Americans
took place (April 19th, 1T75; comp. above). Pop. (1905) 4530. In or near
to Montreal. FITOHBURG. d2. Route. 309
tlie Common or Oreen, where the battle took place, in the centre of the
town, are two monaments and various commemorative tablets and boul-
ders. On the N. side of the Green is the old Buckman Tavern, where
the minnte-men assembled (tablet), and on the W. side is the Harrington
House, where the wounded Jonathan Harrington dragged himself to die
at his wife's feet. In Hancock St., leading to the N.W. from the Green,
stands (right) the Hancock-Clarke House, where John Hancock and Samuel
Adams were roused by Paul Revere in the middle of the night before
the battle. It contains a few relics of the period, but there is a larger
and more interesting collection in the Town Hall, on the road to Boston,
to the E. of the Green. Munroe's Tavern, farther to the S.E., near Hast
Lexington, was the headquarters of Earl Percy, the British commander.
At (22 M.) Concord Junction we cross the N. Y. N. H. & H.
line to Lowell (p. 312); to the right is the State Reformatory.
— From (36 M.) Ayer Junction various lines radiate.
One of these branches runs to (24 M.) Greenville, passing (3 M.) Groton,
with one of the leading private schools for boys in the United States. —
Another, running S. to (11 M.) Clinton, passes (9 M.) South Lancaster, with
the * Thayer Ornithological Museum (8-12 & 1-4).
50 M. Fitchburg {Johnsonia, from $ 3; Fitchburg Ho., $2-21/2),
a busy industrial city on the Nashua River, with (1905) 33,021 in-
hab., the junction of lines to Worcester (p. 240) and South Framing-
ham (p. 241). In the centre of the town are a large Soldiers* Mon-
ument and the Walker Free Library, with its art-collections. The
Calvinistic Congregational Church contains some fine stained-glass
windows, by Fred. Wilson and Tiffany (1903).
The train now begins to ascend. To the right runs the Nashua.
From (53 M.) Wachusett coaches run to the S. to (6 M.) Mt.
Wachusett (2108 ft.; Summit Ho., $2-21/2; *View), which may
also be reached from Princeton (Princeton Inn, $2V2-35 Wachu-
sett Ho., $2-3), on the Worcester line (see p.' 335). At (60 M.)
South Ashburnham the Cheshire branch diverges to the right (N.)
from the main line (which goes on to the Berkshire Hills and Troy,
N. Y. ; see p. 335). — At (68 M) Winehendon diverges the Monad-
nock branch to Rindge, Jaffrey (The Inn, $ 2-2^/2 ; *The Ark, $ 2-2 V2),
and (10 M.) Peterboro (Tucker's Tavern, $2-21/2).
From Peterboro a stage (75 c.) runs to (6 M.) the lovely summer-resort
of Dublin ( Leffingwell Inn, $ 3), situated on a beautiful lake near the N.W.
base of Mt. Monadnock. It is also reached via Harrisville, on the Boston &
Maine R. R. (p 313).
The train now enters New Hampshire. 77 M. Fitzwilliam (1200 ft.;
*Fitzwilliam Tavern, $ 2 ; Laurel Lake Inn), one of the starting-
points for an ascent of (5 M.) Mt. Monadnock. 82 M. Troy, the usual
station (carriage, $ 1 each) for (5 M.) the Mountain House (2100 ft ;
$21/2), about halfway up Mt. Monadnock (3186 ft.; *View). —
92 M. Keene (Cheshire Ho., $ 272-3), a beautiful little city on the
Ashuelot, with 9165 inhab., the attractive Horatian Park (1060 ft.),
a country club (golf), and manufactures of artistic pottery, wooden
ware, and furniture. — Beyond (104 M.) Westmoreland the train
begins to descend into the valley of the Connecticut. 110 M. Walpole
(Walpole Inn, with swimming pool, $ 3-4; Wentworth, $2), a charm-
ing summer-resort. We now cross the river to —
310 Route 42. RUTLAND. From Boston
114 M. BeUows FaUs (280 ft. ; Windham, Bcckingham, $ 2-2V2 ;
Rail. Restaurant), in Vermont, a picturesque summer-resort, with
large pulp and paper mills. The wooded Mt. Kilhurn, on the New
Hampshire bank, affords a fine view of the village and the rapids
(fall of 40 ft.). At Bellows Falls we intersect the Connecticut River
Division of the B. ^^ M. R. R. (see p. 345) and pass on to the tracks
of the Rutland R. R., which crosses the Green Mts. (comp. p. 314),
affording beautiful views.
At first we now traverse the pretty valley of the Williams River,
passing (128 M.) Chester (570 ft.) and other small summer-resorts.
We then pass into the attractive valley of the Black River and soon
begin to ascend the E. slope of the Green Mts. (comp. p. 314).
Near (137 M.) Cavendish (910 ft. ; Elliot, $ 2) is the wild ravine of the
Black River, with interesting pot-holes (6 inches to 10 ft. in dia-
meter). 144 M. Ludlow (1080 ft. ; Goddard, Ludlow, $ 2; Echo Lake
Ho., 5 M. from the station, $1^2) is an attractive summer-resort.
— From (148 M.) Summit (1525 ft) we descend rapidly to —
167 M. Eutland (560 ft. ; Berwick Ho., $ 21/2-4; Bardwell Ho.,
$ 21/2), a town in the Otter valley, with 11,499 inhab., chiefly
engaged in quarrying and cutting marble (see below), and in the
Howe Scale Works. It is the junction of the branch to White
Creek (for Albany) and Chatham and of the D. ^ H. R. R. (to Sara-
toga, etc.).
Excursions may be made from Eutland to (10 M.) Killington Peak
(4240 ft.; Hotel near the top, $21/2; 'View), one of the highest of the
Green Mts. 5 to Mt. Ida, etc. — Vermont produces three-fourths of the marble
quarried in the United States, and Eutland is the centre of the industry,
which employs many thousand men. The Sutherland Falls Quarry, at
Proctor (see below), is probably the largest single quarry in the world.
The marble of Vermont is said to be whiter and more durable than that
of Carrara.
172 M. Proctor (see above). — At (176 M.) Pittsford (350 ft.)
is the Vermont Tuberculosis Sanatorium. In a gorge near by is a
curious ice-cave, where thick ice is found at midsummer (guide
necessary). — 183 M. Brandon (300 ft. ; Brandon Inn, $ 21/2),
with marble quarries, rich deposits of bog-iron, and mines of
kaoline, used here in making mineral paint. Stages run hence to
(8 M.) the pretty Lake Dunmore (Lake Dunmore Ho., Mountain
Spring ^Hotel, $3-4), surrounded by mountains, near which is
the equally attractive isilver Lake (hotel). Another favourite drive is
to Sudbury (Hyde Park Manor, $ 3-5), 8 M. to the W. — From
(189 M.) Leicester Junction (350 ft.) a branch-line runs to (17 M.)
Ticonderoga (p. 124). — 200 M. Middlebury (340 ft. ; Addison Ho.,
$2-3), with a .'college, is a good centre for excursions to (11 M.)
* Bread Loaf Inn (1525 ft.; $3-4), Snake Mt. (1310 ft.; *View),
and other points among the Green Mts. Mt. Lincoln (4100 ft.) and
Bread Loaf (3900 ft.), both commanding fine views, are easily
ascended from the Bread Loaf Inn. — We descend along the Otter
Creek to (208 M.) New Haven Junction (for a short line to Bristol)
to Montreal. BURLINGTON. 42. Route. 311
and (213 M.) Vergennes (190 ft. j Lenox, Stevens Ho., $ 2V2-3),8 JVL
from Lake Champlain, of which we obtain views, hacked hy the
Adirondacks (R. 8), to the left. 227 M. Shelburne, with the house,
grounds, and model farms of Dr. W. Seward Wehh (to the left, on
the lake}.
234 M. Burlington (110 ft.; Van Ness Ho., from $3; Burling-
ton, $2-3), beautifully situated on a hill rising from the E. shore
of Lake Champlain (p. 126), is the chief city of Vermont and one
of the largest lumber-marts in America, the lumber coming chiefly
from Canada. Pop. (1900) 18,640. Near the public square in the
centre of the town, which is well built and laid out, are the Post
Office, the City Hall, the Court House, and the Young Men's
Christian Association. The Masonic Temple, at the corner of Church
and Pearl Sts., and the Fletcher-Carnegie Free Library (College St.)
are also noteworthy. The Roman Catholic Cathedral and St. Paul's
Episcopal Church are conspicuous among the churches.
The Univebsity of Yeemont, on a hill 365 ft. above the
lake, is attended by 535 students. The handsome Billings Library,
designed by H. H. Richardson, contains the fine Marsh Collection
of books in the Scandinavian languages (comp. p. 314). The
University Tower commands a magnificent *View (best at sunset)
of the city, Lake Champlain (with Juniper Island opposite Burling-
ton), the Adirondacks (incl. Mt. Marcy and Whiteface), and the
Green Mts. (to theE. ; Mt. Mansfield, Camel's Hump, etc.). In
the University Park is a Statue of Lafayette, by J. Q. A. Ward.
Col. Ethan Allen (see p. 125; monument) is buried in Green
Mt. Cemetery; Lake View Cemetery, to the N.W., is also worth visiting.
Walks and drives may be taken along tte Winooski, to Red Rocks, to
Shelburne Foint, Malletfs Bay (6M.), etc., and longer excursions to Mt. Mans-
field (p. 315), Gamers Eump (p. 315), and other Green Mt. peaks. Steamers
on Lake Champlain to Port Kent (Ausable Chasm), Flattsburg, etc., see R. 10.
From Burlington to Esskx Jdnction, 8 M., Central Vermont Railway
in 25 min. (fare 25 c.). The line runs to the N.E., passing the picturesque
gorge and falls of the WinoosU, and at (8 M.J Essex Junction (p. 315) joins
the trunk line of the Central Vermont Eailway (see E.. 42 b).
To the N. of Burlington, the line becomes unusually interesting,
crossing as it does the beautiful islands in Lake Champlain. For
about 6 M. it skirts Lake Champlain, affording fine views, includ-
ing Plattsburg (p. 128), across the water, 10 M. away, and the
Hotel Champlain (p. 126). It then leaves the mainland and crosses
to the island of South Hero (p. 126), over a stone embankment,
3^2 M. long, and just wide enough for the single track, giving the
impression that the train is gliding over the surface of the water. —
247 M. South Hero (Iodine Springs Ho., $ 2-3), a small watering-
place. Few buildings are visible. About 3 M. off is the Lewis
Camp ($2-5). — 251 M. Grand Isle (Island Villa, 2V2 M. from the
station, $ 21/2-3), also on South Hero, in the midst of a camping
and fishing region. — The railway now leaves South Hero and runs
across another causeway (8/4 M. long) to North Hero Island (p. 126).
312 Route 42. LOWELL. FromBo8ton
259 M. North Hero (Irving Ho., $ 2). — Beyond this point the
railway returns by a third embankment to the mainland, which
it reaches at the peninsula named Alburgh Tongue. — 265 M. Isle
La Motte is the station for the island of that name, one of the
loveliest of the Champlain group, and is connected with it by an
old bridge. It has numerous picturesque camps along its shore,
and the Church and Shrine of St. Anne attract many pilgrims and
visitors. — From this point the line runs due N., skirting the lake
shore, to (271 M.) Alburgh (Lakeside, $ 2), where hand-baggage is
examined by the Canadian custom-house officers.
FftOM Albuegh to Ogdensbueg, 122 M. railway in 41/2-5 hrs. — At
(4 M.) Rouse's Point (p. 128) we intersect the Central Vermont Eailway.
— 9 M. Champlain, one of the oldest villages in New York State. — At
(14 M.) Mooers Junction our line is crossed by the Delaware and Hudson
R.U. — 40 M. Chateaugay (p. 106), one of the gateways to the Adiron-
dacks. — 60 M. Ualone Junction, at the intersection of the Adirondack
and St. Lawrence Divdi-iou of the N. Y. Central and Hudson River R. E.
A mile farther on is Malone (p. 118). — 75 M. Moira (p. 118), where the ]:? . Y.
and Ottawa R.R. crosses our line. — 81 M. Lawrence, the centre of one of
the largest dairy districts of New York State. — 97 M, Norviood (p. 132),
the junction of the Rome, Watertown, and Ogdensburg Division of the
N. Y. C. R. R. — 122 M. Ogdensburg, see p. 154.
Beyond Alburgh the railway soon enters Canada, running to
the N. along the E. bank of the Richelieu (p. 128). 277 M. Noyan
is the junction of the Canada & Atlantic Railway to Ottawa (see
Baedeker's Canada\ 281. M. Clarenceville. At (299 M.) Iberville,
the junction of a line to Quebec, we cross the Richelieu to (300 M.)
St. John's, where we join the Canadian Pacific Railway. Hence to —
330 M. Montreal (Windsor Street Station), see Baedeker s Canada.
b. Vi& Lowell and Concord.
335 M. Boston & Maine Raileoad (Concord Division) to (145 M.) White
River Junction in 41/4-43/4 hrs. ; Centeal Veemont Raileoad thence to (163 M.)
Si. John's in 5-6 hrs. ; and Geand Teunk Railway thence to (27 M.) Mon-
treal in 3/4-I lir- (through- fare $ 9 ; parlor-car $ IV2, sleeper $ 2).
Boston, see p. 253. The train starts from the North Union Station
(p. 253), crosses the Charles and the Fitchburg division (p. 306), and
runs to the N.W. through Somerville and Medford. At the latter is
Tufts College, with 1120 students (including the Medical and Dental
Schools in Boston) and the interesting Barnum Museum of Natural
History (with the stuffed skin of the elephant 'Jumbo'). To the
right lie the * Middlesex Fells (p. 285), to the left the Mystic Lakes.
8 M. Winchester, with a State Aviary. 10 M. Woburn, an industrial
town with (1905) 14.402 inhab., a fine public library (by H. H.
Richardson), and the residences of many Bostonians, was the birth-
place of Count Rumford (1753-1814). — At (15 M.) Wilmington
the branch to Lawrence (p. 286) diverges to the right. Beyond
(22 M.) North Billerica we cross the Concord River.
26 M. Lowell [St. Charles, $3; Richardson's, $3; American Ho.,
from $2), at the confluence of the Concord and Merrimac, is the
to Mcmtreal. MANCHESTER 42. Route. 313
fourth city of Massaclmsetts (pop. 94,889 in 1905) and one of tte
most important industrial cities in the United States. In 1905 its
huge mills and factories, run mainly by the water-power furnished
by the Pawtucket Falls on the Merrimac (32 ft. ; seen from the bridge),
produced goods (woollen cloth, carpeting, etc.) to the value of
$46,879,212 (9,375,842^). Dickens gives a graphic description of
Lowell in his 'American Notes' (chap. 4), but many of its features
have changed since his day, and the mill operatives are now mainly
French Canadians (25,000) or Greeks (7000), whHe about 20 other
races are represented. The Greek cafes are characteristic, and the
Greek church of Hagia Trias (cor. of Lewis and Jefferson Sts.) is an
imposing example of the Byzantine style. The centre of the city
is Monument Squaee, with the City Hall, Memorial Hall, a War
Monument, and a Statue of Victory after Ranch. In "Worthen St.
(No. 243) is the house in which James McNeill Whistler (1834-1903)
was born (now occupied by the Lowell Art Association and con-
taining some relics of the painter). A replica of Bodins Whistler
Memorial has also been erected here.
Beyond LoweU the line follows the Merrimac (seats to the right),
and beyond (33 M.) Tyngsboro (*Yiew) it enters New Hampshire.
— 39 M. Nashua (Tremont, Laton Ho., from $2; Rail. Restaurant),
a pleasant town of 23,898 inhab,, at the confluence of the Merrimac
and the Nashua, with manufactures of iron, cotton, carpets, etc. The
fine Roman Catholic church of St. Francis Xavier, was erected in 1898.
FsoM Nashua to Keenk, 56 M., railway in 2-273 trs. (fare $1.65).
Stages run from (9 M.) Amherst or Ponemah (birthplace of Horace Greeley,
p. 39) to Ponemah Springs (hotel) and from (12 M.) Milford to Mount Ver-
non, a summer-resort on the Quohquinapossaktssamanagnog River. 16 M.
Wilton; 27 M. Greenfield. At. (32 M.) Elmwood Junction we cross a branch
from Peterboro (p. 3J9) to Contoocook and Concord (see below). — 35 M.
Hancock, named after John Hancock, first signer of the Declaration of
Independence, one of the early owners. — Coaches run from (43 M.) Harris-
ville to (4 M.) DubUn (p. 309). — 56 M. Keene, see p. 309.
The train now runs to the N. through the pretty valley of the
Merrimac. — 56 M. Manchester (New Manchester Ho., $ 2^/2-3 Va;
Rail. Restaurant), the largest city in New Hampshire (56,987 in-
hab.), with manufactures of cotton goods and prints (value in 1900,
$26,000,000). Its water-power is furnished by the Amoskeag Falls,
on the Merrimac. Good view of mills to the left.
About 4 M. to the E, of Manchester lies 'he island-studded ia^ J/assa-
lesec (fishing), 4 M. long and 30 M. in circumference.
Fkom Manchestee to Hennikee, 26 M., railway in IVihr. (fare 74 c.).
From (16 M.) Parker, on this raUwHy, a short branch-line runs to (6 M.)
New Boston (The Tavern), a favouri'e resort for driving and sleighing
parties from Lowell, Manchester, Nashua, and Concord, and also frequen: ed
by more permanent guests. At (26 M.) Hcnniker we join the above-men-
tioned line from Elmwood Junction to Contoocook.
At (b5 M.) Hooksett and other points we cross and recross the
Merrimac. To the W. is Pinnacle Mt. (view).
74 M. Concord (250 ft.; Eagle, $2V2-4V2; -R«»^- Restaurant^,
the capital of New Hampshire, with 19,632 inhab., is a pleasant
Baedeker's TJnited States. 4th Edit. 20
314 Route 42. WOODSTOCK. From Boston
tree-shaded city on the W. bank of the Merrimac, with carriage-
works and qnarries of tine granite. Among the chief buildings are
the State Capitol, the State Library, the City Hall, and the Insane
Asylum. Connt Rumford (p. 312) lived here for some years. Abont
2 M. to the W. is St. Paul's, a large and well-known boys' school.
Feom Concord to Claeemont Junction, 57 31., railway in Qri^lzhrs.
(fare $ 1.70). — 12 M. Contoocook, see p. 313. — From (28 M.) Bradford
coaches run to (5 M.) Bradford Mineral Springs (Bradford Spring Ho.,
from 5 2). — 35 M. Lake Sunapee Station lies at the S. end of Lake Sunapee
(1100 ft.), a pretty, hill-girt sheet of water, 9 M. long and 1-3 M. wide, on
which small steamers ply. The chief resort on the lake is Soo-Nlpi Park,
on the E. bank, with the large ''Soo-Mpi Park Lodge (from $ 5) and a U. S.
Fish Hatchery on Pike Brook. Other favourite points are the Oranliden
Hotel (from §3) and Sunapee (Ben Mere Inn, $4), both on the W. bank.
Landlocked salmon, trout, and other fish abound in the lake. — About 6 M.
from (43 M.) Newport is the Blue Mountain Forest Park, a huge game pre-
serve formed by the late 3Ir. Austin Corbin, covering 25,000 acres and en-
closed by a wire fence 24 M. long. Its denizens include buffaloes (170 head),
elks, moose, and wild boars (from Germany). Visitors are allowed to drive
through the park. — 55 M. Claremoni (Claremont, §2V2-3V2). — 57 M. Clare-
mont Junction (see p. 845).
At Concord our present route diverges to the left from the main
line, which runs via Lake Winnipesaukee and Plymouth to Wells
River (see p. 317). As we cross the Contoocook, near (81 M.) Pena-
cook, we see on Dustons Island, to the right, a colossal Statue
of Mrs. Hannah Duston of Haverhill (p. 286), who here killed 10
or 12 of her Indian captors and made her escape. — Daniel Webster
(1782-1852) was born 2 M. to the S.W. of (93 M.) Franklin.
From this station a branch-line runs to (13 M.) Bristol, whence
stages ply to (5 M.) Newfound Lake (600 ft.). — Our line bends to
the left (W.), soon passing Webster Lake (right) and Highland Lake.
From (105 M.) Potter Place we may ascend Mt. Kearsarge (2943 ft. ;
not to be confounded with Mt. Kearsarge in the White Mts., p. 322),
which commands an admirable view (road for 4M., then short
bridle-path). Beyond (126 M.) Canaan (955 ft. ; Lucerne, $ 2) lies
(1.) Mascoma Lake , with a Shaker village on its S. bank. Beyond
(139 M.) West Lebanon we cross the Connecticut and reach —
145 M. White Eiver Junction (365 ft.; Junction Ho., $2-
21/25 Rail. Restaurant), where we cross the Passumpsic Division of
the Boston & Maine R. E. and join the Central Vermont R. R.
From White River .lunction to New York and to Quebec, see p. 345. — A
branch-line, crossing (10 M.) Qzieechy Gulf, a narrow gorge 1(50 ft. deep,
runs to (14 M.) Woodstock Cf^oodsiock Inn, open all the year round, $ 3-5),
the birthplace of Hiram Powers (1805-73), the sculptor, and Geo. P. Marsh
(1801-82), the diplomatist and Xorse scholar (comp. p. 311). It is a favourite
resort in autumn (fine drives, etc.) and is also visited in winter.
Our line ascends through the picturesque * Valley of the White
River, which flows down through the Green Mts. Beyond (153 M.)
West Hartford we cross the river (*View). 158 M. Sharon (500 ft.),
the birthplace of Joseph Smith (p. 500), founder of Mormonism.
At (177 M) Randolph (680 ft.; Randolph Inn, $2) the scenery
becomes wilder and the higher summits of the Green Mts. come
U
to Montreal. MONTPELIER. 42. Route. 315
into sight. At (192 M.) Boxbury (1015 ft.) we cross the watershed
and begin the descent to Lake Champlain. On a hiU to the right,
at (199 M.) Northfield, is Norwich University, a military college.
209 M. Montpelier Junction, whence a short branch-line rnns to
(3 M.) Montpelier (520 ft.; Pavilion, from $21/2), the capital of
Vermont, on the Winooski, with 6500 inhab. and a handsome State
House, surmonnted by a dome 124 ft. high. In the portico is a
Statue of Ethan Allen (1737-89; p. 125). In the building of the
Y. M, C. A. is the Montpelier Art Gallery, chiefly consisting of paint-
ings (original and copied) by Thomas W. Wood. The State Library
is a tasteful building. — Near (214 M.) Middlesex (535 ft.) the Wi-
nooski passes through the Middlesex Narrows, a rocky gorge 1/4 M.
long, 60 ft. deep, and 30 ft. wide. — 219 M. Waterbury (430 ft. ;
Waterbury Ho., $2) is a good centre for excursions.
An electric railway runs from Waterbury to the N. to (10 M.) Stowe
(Green Mt. Inn, $2), a favourite summer -resort amid the Green Mts.
Mt. Mansfield (4364 ft.; Summit Ho., $2), the highest of the Green Mts.,
is ascended hence by a good road (9 M. ; stage) and affords a splendid
*View. It has three peaks, the Forehead, JVose, and Chin, of which the
last is the highest. The road ends at the base of the Nose (Summit Ho.
S 2-3), whence a path ascends to the Chin (V4-I hr.). The view from the
Nose is, however, almost as good, iDcluding the White Mts., Lake Cham-
plain, and the distant Adirondacks. Mt. Mansfield may also be ascended
by a road on the N. side, leading from Jeffersonville through the Smuggler's
Notch, or on the W. side from Underhill (see below). — Excursions may also
be made from Stowe to Moss Glen Falls, CameVs Hump (see below), etc.
CameVs Hump (4090 ft.) is now seen to the S.W. (left) and may
be reached from (223 M.) North Duxbury (road 3 M., path 3 M.).
To the N. (right) we see the Bolton Falls. Beyond (237 M.) Willis-
ton we enjoy a retrospect of Mt. Mansfield and Camel's Hump. From
(241 M.) Essex Junction (Railway Restaurant) branch-lines run to
(8 M.) Burlington (see p. 311) and to (11 M.) Underhill (see above)
and (25 M.) Cambridge Junction.
266 M. St. Albans (400 ft. 5 American Ho., $2-3; Bail. Bestau-
ranf), a village with 6239 inhab., finely situated on rising ground,
2V2 M. from Lake Champlain. It contains the car-shops of the Cen-
tral Vermont R. R. and is an important market for butter and cheese.
Aldis Hill (500 ft.), 3/4 M. to the N.E. of St. Albans, and Bellevue Hill
(1300 ft.), 2 M. to the S.E., command -Views of the Green Mts., Adiron-
dacks, and Lake Champlain (afternoon-light best). — St. Albans Bay (Lake
View Ho., St. Albans Point Ho., $ 2) affords good bass and pike fishing.
Feom St. Axbans to Richfoed, 28 M., railway in IV4-2V4 hrs., along
the Missisquoi River. — 10 M. Sheldon Springs {Riverside, ^2; Portland,
IV2 M. from Sheldon station, $ IV2), with alkaline and mineral springs
used for cutaneous diseases, dyspepsia, and liver complaints. The Missis-
quoi forms rapids here. — 28 M. Richford (American Ho., $2), see p. 319.
From (272 M.) Swanton Junction a branch-line runs to (20 M.)
Alburgh and (24 M.) Bouse's Point (see p. 312). 278 M. Highgate
Springs (Franklin Ho., $ 2V2-3), near Missisquoi Bay (muskalonge,
black bass, pickerel ; duck-shooting), with alkaline springs. A little
farther on the train passes into Canada (Province of Quebec). Beyond
(290m.) Stanbridge we see the Bougernont and Beloeil to the right
20*
316 Route 42. ALTON BAY. From Boston
rising in isolation from a flat plain. Crossing the Richelieu at
(308 M.) St. John's, we join the Grand Tmnk Railway. Hence to -^
335 M. Montreal (Bonaventnre Station), see Baedekers Canada.
c. Yik Concord, Plymonth, Wells Eiver, and Newport.
343 M. Boston & Maine Eaileoad to (235 M.) Newport in 71/2-8 hrs. ;
Canadian Pacific Railway thence to (108 M.) Montreal in 31/2-41/2 hrs. (fares
as at p. 312). — This route runs via Lake Winnipesaukee and also forms
one of the approaches to the White Mis. (p. 320; views to the right).
From Boston to (74 M.) Concord, see R. 42b. Our present line
crosses the Merrimac and runs towards the N. Abont 4 M. from
(84 M.) Canterbury is a large Shaker village. To the left rises Mt.
Kearsarge (p. 314). On the hill above (93 M.) Tilton is a Memorial
Arch (55 ft. high), erected in hononr of the Tilton family (to the
right, beyond the station). We now leave the Merrimac, cross and
recross the Winnipesaukee River, and skirt Lake Winnisquam (left).
Ahead (left) rise the Sandwich Mts. and the Franconia Mis. (p. 328).
102 M. Laconia (Eagle, $ 2-2V2). — 104 M. Lakeport (Mt. Bel-
knap Ho., $ 2), at the extremity of Long Bay, an inlet of Lake
"Winnipesaukee, is the junction of a branch-line to (17 M.) Alton
Bay (see below), at the S. end of Lake Winnipesaukee.
*Lake Winnipesaukee or Winnipiseogee (470 ft. ; 'Smile of the Great
Spirit" or 'Beautiful Water in a High Place'), the largest lake in New
Hampshire, is an irregularly shaped sheet of water, 25 M. long and 1-7 M.
wide, surrounded by picturesque hills and dotted with innumerable is-
lands. Its waters (10-300 ft. deep) are singularly clear and are well
stocked with fish. Small steamers traverse the lake, which is generally
reached either at Alton Bay, Weirs, or Wolfelorough (see below).
Alton Buy (Oakbirch Inn, from $21/2; Winnipesattkee Eon-se , $2-21/2)
lies at the end of the narrow fjnrd, 5 M. long, forming the S. extremity
of the lake. Among the excursions made from this point is the ascent of
Belknap Mt. (2260 ft. -, *View; afternoon-light best), 12 M. to the N.W. (car-
riage-fare there and back $1V2). Nearer points of view are Mt Major,
Prospect Hill, and Sheep Mt. Merry Meeting Lake lies 3 M. to the E. Besides
the above-mentioned route, Alton Bay is reached via Lawrence and Dover
(see p. 286).
From Alton Bay a small steamer plies to (9 M.) Wolfeborough (Hobbs
Is Inn, S2-3; Sheridan, $2; many boarding-houses), the largest village on
the lake (2390 inhab.), pleasantly' situated on the E. bank. The favourite
excursion is to Copple Crown Mt. (2100 ft.), 6V2 M. to the S.E. (carriage,
$ 11/2 each), the *View from which includes Mts. Ossipee and Chocorua to
the N. (with Mt. Washington in the distance on a clear day) and extends
to the ocean on the S.E. Tumble Dovm Dick, to the N. of Copple Crown,
also affords a good view. Wolfebornugh may also be reached via Salem,
Portsmouth, and Sanbornville (see p. 319).
From Wolfeborough steamers run across the lake to (14 M.) Weirs
(comp. below; SOc.) and up the lake to (17 M.) Centre Harbor (80 c), both
routes affording beautiful views, including Mt. Washington.
Weira {*New Weirs, Lakeside, Winneeoette, fmm $2), on the W. side
of the lake, is a popular summer camping-ground of various ecclesiastical
and other bodies. It is a station on the B. & M. R. R. (p. 317), and steamers
run to Lakeport (see above).
Centre Harbor (600 ft. 5 Colonial, from $21/2; Moulton, $ 21/2 ; boarding-
houses), at the N.W, extremity of the lake, is, perhaps, the pleasantest
point to sojourn. About 4 M. to the N.E. (carr. to the foot, path to the
to Montreal. PLYMOUTH. 42. Route. 317
top IV2 M.) rises Red Hill (2038 ft.), commanding a splendid *View, with
the Sandwich Mts. (Chocorua, etc.) to the N. and N.E. To the W. of Red
Hill, about 3 M. from Centre Harbor, lies *Squam Lake, a smaller edition
of Lake Winnipesaukee (AsquamHo., at Holderness, $3-5). Centre Harbor
Hill (1 M.) is a good point of view. Drives may be t;iken '•Bound the Ring"",
to Ossipee Park, to Plymouth (see below), etc. — Coaches run from Centre
Harbor to (18 M.) West Ossipee (p. 319), whence *Mt. Chocorua (3508 ft. ;
*View; Chocorua Hotel, $21/2), one of the most finely shaped mountains
in New England, may he ascended via Tamworth.
From Lakeport (p. 316) the train runs to the N. along the hays
on the W. side of Lake Winnipesankee. 109 M. Weirs (p. 316);
112 M. Meredith^ 5 M. from Centre Harbor (p. 316). To the right is
Lake Waukewan or Measley Pond^ separated by a narrow neck from
the N.W.hay of Lake Winnipesaukee. We now turn away from
Lake Winnipesaukee. 121 M. Ashland. At (123 M.) Bridgewater
we cross the Pemigewasset (g soft; 'place of crooked pines').
126 M. Plymouth. [Pemigewasset Eo.^ $ 3-4, meal- station), in
the beautiful vaUey of the Pemigewasset, 7 M. to the W. of Squam
Lake (see above). A good view is obtained fromWalkers Hill, close
to the viUage ; and *Mt. Prospect (2070 ft.) , 4 M. to the N.E.,
commands a splendid panorama of the Franconia Mts. (N.), Sand-
wich Mts., and Lake Winnipesaukee. Plymouth is known for its
buckskin gloves, and contains the old court-house where Daniel
Webster made his first plea. Nathaniel Hawthorne died at the
Pemigewasset House in 1864.
From Plymouth to Lincoln, 22 M., railway in 1 hr. This line ascends
the *Valley of the Pemigewasset and leads to the heart of the Franconia Mis.
(see p. 82S). Fine views. — From (8 M.) Campion Village a stage runs to
(12 M.) Wat&rville (Elliot's Hotel, $ 2V2), situated in a high valley and an
excellent centre for climbers. — 21 M. North Woodstock {jDeer Park Hotel,
$31/2; Fair View, from $2) is finely situated at the S. end of the "Franconia
Notch, 10 M. from the Profile House (see p. 328 ; stage). Among the adjacent
points of interest are the picturesque "^Lost River , Mirror Lake, BeWs
Cascades, and the Mummies (specimens of erosion). — 22 M. Lincoln.
Our train now ascends the vaUey of the Baker River. Small sta-
tions. 145 m. Warren (Moosilauke Ho., $2) is the starting-point
of the stage to the (10 M.) top of *Mt. Moosilauke ('bald place';
4810 ft.), which has been conspicuous to the right for some time
[Tip- Top Ho., at the top, $ 3; The Moosilauke^ at the base, $ 3).
Fine *Yiew of the White Mts., the Franconia Mts., and the Con-
necticut Valley. — Near (150 M.) Warren ^Mmmii (1060 ft.), the
highest point on the line (path to the top of Mt, Moosilauke, 5 M.),
"we pass through a deep rock-cutting. At (168 M.) Woodsville, at the
mouth of the Ammonoosuc (p. 325), we cross the Connecticut to —
169 M. Wells River (Hale^s Tavern, $2-4; Rail. Restaurant),
where our line joins the Connecticut & Passumpsic Division of the
Boston and Maine Railroad. WeUs River is also the junction of lines
to the White Mts. and Montpelier (see p. 318).
From Wells Rivee to Groveton, 53 M.. railway in 2V3-3"hrs. (fare
$ 1.89). This line runs into the heart of the White Mts. (see R. 43) and
forms part of one of the regular through-routes from New York and Boston
(comp. p. 320). The White Mt. expresses from the latter city do not cross the
318 Roxite 49. NEWPORT. From Boston
river at Wells River. — The train ascends along the Ammonootuc. 5 M. Bath;
10 M. Lisbon (Breezy Hill Ho., $2'/2-3V2); 12 M. iSugar Hill (village, 6 M.
from station, see p. 330); 21 M. Littleton (Thayer's, The Maples, Chiswick
Inn, S 2-3). a pleasant resort, from which stages run to (6 M.) Franconia
(p. 330). — 27 M. Wing Road is the junction of the line to (4 M.) Bethlehem
Junction, (8 M.) Twin Mt. House, (12 M.) White Mt. House, and (13 M.) Fahyan'i
(comp. p. 305). [From Bethlehem Jiinction branch -lines run to (2 M.)
Maplewood and (3 M.) Bethlehem, and to (10 M.) the Profile House; see
pp. 327, 328.1 - 31 M. Whitefield (955 ft.; Mountain View Ho., 21/2 M. from
the station, from $31/2; Overlook Ho., $21/2; Fiske, Lindsay, in the town,
$2-3), the junction of a line to .Tefi'erson, Gorham, and Berlin (see p. 303),
affords pleasant summer-quarters (good mountain-views). The Borden
Condensed Milk Factory is interesting. The Moristn Hospital is specially
equipped for surgical cases (from $2 a day). Diives may be taken to
(2 M.) Kimhall Hill (Overlook Ho., $2-3), Dalton Mt. (5 M.), Cherry Mt.
(6 M.), Bray Hill (6 M. ; *View of White and Green Mts.), and (7 M.)
Prospect Mt. ("View similar, with addition of Connecticut River). — 43 M.
Lancaster (p. 305). — 53 M. Groveton, see p. 304.
Feom Wells Rivek to Montpelieb, 38 M., railway in lV4-2V4hrs. —
This line ascends along the Wells River. There is a pretty little fall to
the risht, just short of (6 M.) South Ryegate. Beyond (10 M.) Groton we pass
Groton Pond (r.), the source of WeUs River. — 23 M. Marshfield (1140 ft.). —
38 M. Montpelier, see p. 315.
Beyond (181 M.) Barnet we leave the valley of the Connecticut,
which bends to the N.E., and ascend along the Passumpsic, which
we cross 25 times in 24 M. — 190 M. St. Jolinsbury (700 ft. ; Avenue
Ho., $2-3), a busy little town of 7010 inhab., with the Fairbanks
Scales Works, a Soldiers^ Monument, a Museum of Natural Science,
and an Art Gallery. It is the junction of lines to (23 M.) Lunen-
burg (p. 306) and (11 M.) Danville, (95 M.) Swanton (p. 315), and
(97 M.) Maquam, on Lake Champlain. — 199 M. Lyndonville (Union
Ho., $ 2), with the Great Falls of the Passumpsic. About 7 M. to
the N.E. of (208 M.) West Burke lies the pretty Willoughby Lake
(1200 ft.), between Mt. Pisgah or Annanance (2500 ft.) and Mt.
Hot (1500 ft.). At (213 M.) Summit Station (1050 ft.) we cross
the watershed between the Connecticut and the St. Lawrence. —
222 M. Barton (Barton, $2; Crystal Lake, $2), on Crystal Lake, is a
growing little summer-resort, about 5 M. to the W. of Willoughby
Lake (see above).
235 M. Newport (700 ft. ; Newport Ho., $ 2-2V25 ^eU spoken
of-, Raymond, $2), a village with 3113 inhab., is prettily situated
at the head (S. end) of Lake Memphremagog and is a good centre
for excursions. Good view of the lake from Pine Hill. Jay Peak
4018 ft.), 12 M. to the W., commands a wide prospect.
*Lake Memphremagog ('beautiful water'; 682 ft.), a lovely sheet of
water, 30 M. long and 2-4 M. wide, lies one-fifth in Vermont and four-
fifths in Canada. It is enclosed by rocky shores and wooded hills, and
its waters abound in lake-trout (sa'lmo confinis), pickerel, perch, and bass.
A small steamer plies daily between Newport (see above) and Magog,
at the N. end of the lake (.there and back about 6-7 hrs.). Passing Indian
Point and the Twin Sisters, we cross the Canadian line near Province Island.
On the W. (left) shore we stop at (12 M.) the foot of the prominent
Owl's Head (3270 ft.), which is ascended hence in 2-2V2hrs. The 'View
includes , on a clear day, Montreal and the Green, White, and Adirondack
Mts. Farther on the steamer passes Long Island and calls at some small
to Montreal. ROCHESTER. 42. Route 319
landings. On the E. shore are the country-houses of several wealthy
Montrealers, and on the W. rises Mi. Elephantus (Revere Ho.). Georgeville
(Lake Hall, $11/2), on the E. bank, 20 M. from Newport, is a quiet and
inexpensive watering-place. — Magog (Park Bouse), at the N. end of the
lake, at its outlet through the Magog River, is & good fishing-station and
is connected by railway (C. P. R.) with (19 M.) Sherbrooke (p. 304). Mt. Or-
ford, 5 M. to the W., affords a good view of the Canadian pine-forests
to the N. and W.
From Newport our line runs towards the N.W. to (266 M.)
Richford (p. 315), where we cross the Canadian frontier. Hence to
[343 M.) Montreal.^ see Baedekers Canada.
Montreal is also reached from Newport by the Grand Trunk Railway
via Stanstead Junction^ Massawippi, Lennoxville, and Sherbrooke (eomp.
Baedeker'' t Canada).
d. Via. Portsmouth and North Conway.
365 M. Boston and Maine Raileoad to (140 M.) North Conway in
5-5V2 hrs. ; Maine Central Raileoad thence to (50 M.) Lunenburg in 21/2-
23/4 hrs. ; St. Johnsbuet & Lake Champlain Railroad thence to (22 M.)
St. Johnsbtiry in ^/^-i hr. ; Boston and Maine Raileoad thence to (44 M.)
Newport in IV2-2 hrs.; Canadian Pacific Railway thence to (109 M.) Mon-
treal in 4-41/2 hrs. (through-fare $9). Passengers for Quebec (fare §11;
sleeper $ 2.50) may travel either via Quebec Junction and the Upper Coos R. R.
(p. y05) or via Sherbrooke and the Quebec Central R. R. (p. 304). — This line
forms the shortest and quickest approach to the White Mts. (R. 4S) and
is also one of the regular routes to Lake Winnipesaukee (see p. 316).
From Boston to (58M.) Portsmouth and (70 M.) Conway Junc-
tion, see R. 35a. — Our line here diverges to the left (W.). 70 M
South Berwick; 71 M. Salmon Falls (p. 286); 74 M. Somersworth.
— BOM. Rochester (^aj,'es, City, Wrisley, $2-3), a small manu-
facturing town with 8466 inhab., is the junction of lines to (29 M.)
Portland (p. 287) and to (18 M.) Alton Bay (p. 316). — 89 M.
Milton. From (98 M.) Sanbornville (Rail. Restaurant) a branch
runs to (12 M.) Wolfeborough (p. 316). Good view (right, front) of
the Sandwich Range (see below). Beyond (117 M.) Centre Ossipee we
have a view of Lake Ossipee to the right. — 123 M. West Ossipee
(p. 317) is the railway-station for several small hotels in the pictur-
esque districts of Tamworth, Sandwich, and Wonalancet (walks
marked by blue 'blazes'; comp. little guide issued by Wonalancet
Outdoor Club). — To the left are seen the Ossipee Mts. and the
Sandwich Mts. (p. 316), with the finely -shaped Chocorua as the
Eastern flanksman of the latter. We pass between Moore's Pond
(left) and Silver Lake (right). Near (128 M.) Madison is one of the
largest erratic bonlders (granite) known in the United States to the
E. of the Rocky Mts. (75 ft. long, 40 ft. wide, 30-37 ft. deep; prob
weight 7-8000 tons). 135 M. Conway (Belleview Ho., $3; Conway
Ho., $2), on the Saco River^ is a quieter centre than N. Conway for
the many pleasant excursions of this region. Moat Mt. (p. 323) ig
conspicuous on the left, and Mt. Kearsarge (p. 322) on the right.
140 M. North Conway, see p. 321. From North Conway to
(212 M.) St. Johnsbury, see R. 41b ; from St. Johnsbury to —
365 M. Montreal, see R. 42c.
320
43. The White Mountains.
The chief Routes fkom Boston to the White Mts. are given an
pp. 316, 319. The main gateways are North Conway (p. 321), reached fit
6hrs. (return-fare $6.10), and Plymouth (p. 317; 31/2 hra. ; $5.30).
The chief direct Rocte fkom New York is via Wells River to Fabyan's
or Bethlehem (comp. R. 47; 11 hrs. ; return-fares $15.50, $15.85), hut many
travellers Jipproach via Boston and North Conway or Plymouth (comp. RR,
42c, 42d; 121/2 hrs.; return-fares $17.20, $17.90). A cheaper route is by
steamer to Portland (p. 237) and thence as in R. 41.
ExcDKSiON {i.e. Retdrn) Tickets at reduced fares are issued in
summer and autumn in all cases , giving alternative routes in going and
returning, ample 'stop-over' privileges , and a liberal allowance of time.
Through-carriages are run to the principal points in the Mts., and parlor
or sleeping cars are attached to all the chief trains (about $ IV2-2V2
extra). Full information, with maps, time-tables, and illustrated guide-
books, may be obtained on application from the railway-companies in-
terested (comp. p. xviii). Circular Tour Tickets are also issued by Raymond &
Whitcomb and Thos. Cook & Son (p. xxii). For the shorter excursions
travellers should ask for the 'one-day excursion tickets'.
Season. The White Mts may be comfortably visited any time from
June to October inclusive, and pedestrians will find the earlier and later
months preferable to the warmer and more crowded months of July and
August. The colouring of the autumn-leaves is an additional attraction
in Sept. and October. Black flies and mosquitoes are somewhat trouble-
some in June. The larger hotels do not open before July.
Time. The chief points of the White Mts., including Mt. Washington.,
the Crawford Notch, Bethlehem, and the Profile House, may be visited in a
week or even less; but it is highly desirable to spend at least 2-4 weeks
in the district. A visit to Lake Winnipesaukee (p. 316) may be conveniently
combined with one to the White Mts.
Hotels. The hotels vary from the large and fashionable summer
caravanserais down to small, unassuming, and inexpensive inns and
boarding-houses. As a general rule, they are good of their kind; and a
speciaj word of praise is due to the waiting of the students (male and
female) at some of the larger houses. The rates vary from $ IV2 to $6 a
day and from $ 5 to $ 30 a week. They are often lower after Sept. 10th.
Outfit. Walkers should be provided with the plain outfit suggested
at p. xxii, and should be prepared for both rain and cold, especially at
the higher elevations. In July and August, however, the temperature in
the valleys is pretty high, and light clothing suffices. Frequent change
of dress has become all too usual at the larger hotels, but those whose
object is rather outdoor exercise than indoor frivolity need not yield to
this custom more than they choose.
Guides are seldom found in the White Mts. , as most of the main
routes are easily followed. They are, however, sometimes useful for the
less well-known excursions (fee $ 2-3 a day); and the pedestrian should,
at any rate, refrain from visiting the less-frequented routes alone. Vyron
and Thaddeus D. Lowe, of Randolph, and Eugene Hunt, of Jefferson, are
trustworthy guides for the Great Range ($3-4), George L. Howard, of
Jackson, for that district, and Onslow S. Smith of Passaconaway, for the S.
part of the White Mts. A good pocket compass is necessary, especially
in the woods.
Gakbiages ('Buckboards', etc.) are easily obtained at all the chief
resorts. Those hired from the hotels are expensive, but more reasonable
terms may be obtained from livery-stable keepers and farmers.
The Appalachian Mountain Club (Tremont Building, Boston), founded
in 1876 and now numbering 1600 members, has done good service in the
White Mts. in making paths, setting np sign-posts, building camps, and
preparing maps. It is now engaged in perfecting an organic system of
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THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 43. Route. 321
maio througli-route footpaths, by which it wll be possible to traverse
nearly all the principal ranges and valleys from end to end, or to cross
from one valley to another. The Club also maintains registers in copper
cylinders on most of the less- frequented summits for records of ascents.
Its periodical, Appalachian contains mnch valuable information. Admission
fee $ 8, annual subscription $ 4. — The best map of the White Mts. is that
published by the Scarborough Publishing Co., 144 Essex St., Boston (2 M to
the ioch), and the best guidebook (so far as it goes) is that issued by the
Appalachian Mountain Club (Part I, 1907; $1).
The White Mountains form the central portion of the Atlantic
system of monntains extending from the peninsula of Gaspe to
Alabama. In the ordinary nse of the term, they cover an area of
1300 sq. M. in the state of New Hampshire, extending from the
Androscoggin and Upper Ammonoosuc on the N. to the base of
the Sandwich Range on the S. (a distance of 30 M.), and from the
Maino frontier on the E. to the vailley of the Connecticut on the W.
(45 M.). The higher monntains rise from a plateau about 1500-
1600 ft. above the sea, and attain an extreme elevation of 5-6000 ft.
They are roughly divided into two main groups, the White Mts.
proper to the E. and the Franconia Mts. to the W. In the original
and narrowest sense the name of White Mts. is restricted to the
Great or Presidential Range, extending for abour 13 M. from Mt.
Madison on the N. E. to Mt. Webster on the S. W. This range cul-
minates in Mt. Washington (6293 ft.), the highest point to the E.
of the Rockies and to the N. of N. Carolina. The great mass of the
White Mts. consists of granite, overlaid by mica slate. The scenery
of the Wbite Mts. is of a very beautiful and varied nature,- and
though few of the summits are sharp enough to deserve the name
of peaks, many of them (such as Mt. Washington aud Mt. Lavaeytte)
are of very noble outline. They are visited annually by many
thousands of summer-guests, and all the chief points are of easy
access. The first white visitor is said to have been Darby Fleid,
in 1642.
The following account notices the chief tourist- centres.
a. North Conway.
North Conway (520 ft.; Kearsarge, from $ 31/2, very fair ; Sunset,
$ 3-3V2r rear rooms in both these near raiway ; New Ridge Hotel,
$ 3; Eastman, Randall, $2-3; numerous bearding-houses), charm-
ingly situated on a low terrace above the 'intervales' of the wind-
ing Saco River (pron. 'Sawco'), is a station on both the M. C. and
B. & M. railroads. It is a favourite resort with those wo like to
combine the softer beauties of the valley with excursions into the
mountains. To the W. rises Moat Mt., to the E. the Green Hills
aud to the N.E. Mt. Kearsarge and Hurricane Mt., while to the N.
and N.W. more distant views are obtained of Mt. Washington
and other lofty summits. Good golf-course (9 holes). About
1V2I.M. to^Ithe N. lies the pretty and sequestered little hamlet of
322 Route 43. NORTH CONWAY. The White
Intervale (550 ft; *Intervale Ho., $31/2-5; Bellevue, $21/2-3; Pen-
dexter, $2-3; Stat., p. 305); and near Mt. Kearsarge (see below)
2 M. to the N.E., is Kearsarge Village (Russell Cottages, $3).
To Echo Lake and the Ledges, 2-2V2 M. From the Kearsarge Hotel we
follow the road to the N. to (7 min.) the Sunset Hotel., take the road to
the left here (which soon passes below the railway), and cross the (7 min.)
Saco by a covered bridge. A few hnndred paces farther on we cross a
branch of the river. About 8 min. farther on, at another brook, the road
forks, the left branch leading to Echo Lake, the right to the DeviFs Den (see
below). We follow the former. At the (12 min.) cross-roads we continue
in a straight direction. 3 min. *Echo Lake (925 ft.), a tiny lake, finely
situated at the base of a bold rocky bluff which has been prominent dur-
ing most of our walk. This is the White Horse Ledge (so called from a
patch of white rock), one of a series of so-called Ledges (100-9(X) ft.), or
cliffs, in which Moat Mt. ends on this side. Following the bank of the
lake towards the N. and disregarding roads leading back to the right, we
reach (7 min.) a path leading through wood to the left, which ultimately
crosses a fence and reaches (8 min.) a road. We follow the road in the "
same direction past a quarry, just beyond which are a small refreshment
hut and the Bevifs Den, under an overhanging slab of rock. We now re-
turn to the point whence we emerged from the fore.«t-path, and follow
the road to the left. At (6 min.) the highroad (white farm-hou=e) we turn
to the right. 10 min. Bridge, where we diverged to the left for Echo Lake (see
above). [By turning to the left on regaining the highroad and following
it for 3/-» M., we reach a sign-post pointing to Diana's Baths.]
To Artists' Falls, 1^4 M. We proceed to the S. from the Kearsarge
Hotel, past the Maine Central R. R. Station, to (10 min.) the bridge over
Artists' Brook; then turn to the left and follow the road, enssing another
bridge, to (12 min.) the North Conway Keeley Institute (formerly Artists'' Falls
Hotel). A path to the right leads to (5 min.) fht Forest Glen Mineral Spring
(alkaline). To reach the falls we take the right branch of the fork op-
posite the spring, and in 5-6 min. more reach their side. The Artists Falls
are small, but pretty in wet weather.
"Ascent of Mt. Keaksarge (5-6 hrs. there and back). Going N. from
the Kearsarge Hotel, we take the (3 min.) second turning to the right (sign-
post 'to Kearsarge Village'), cross the railway, and (5 min.) turn to the
left. This road leads through Kearsarge Village (see above) to (I1/4 M.) a
small church, where we turn to the right. 1/3 M. S. Eastman x Farm House
(carr. to this point, 50c. a head; horse hence to the top $2; guide, un-
necessary, S2; ascent hence in 13/4-21/4 hrs.). The path, which is steep
and stony at first, comparatively easy in the middle, and steep towards
the top, begins behind the farm-house, cros«e8 fields, and enters (8 min.) the
wood. 25 min. Path leading back to the right to Prospect Ledge ('\'iew of
Saco Valley, Moat Mt., etc.). About 10 miu. farther up we pass a small
spring (to the right). In 10 min. we emerge from the wood and reach the
rocky ledges, and soon see a small cairn a little to our right. It is not
easy to give directions from this point, but by noting the worn part of the
rocks and keeping a look-out for the cairns, we reach the top in about
ihr. more. At tirst we keep to the right and then swing round to the left
to approa<h the summit from the W. The noble "View from the pyramidal
Mt. Kearsarge, Kiarsarge, or Pequaicket (3270 ft. ; rfmt. hut at the top)
includes the Saco Valley to the S. and W. ; Mt. Chocorua and the bare
ridjie of Moat Mt. to the S.W.; Moosilauke (p. 317; in the distance), Mt.
Hancock, Mt. Carrigain, and Mt. Lafayette, to the W. and W.N.W. ; most
of the main summits of the White Mts., including a grand view of Mt.
Washington, to the N.W.; the Wild-Cat and Carter Mts., with the Carter
Notch between, to the N.; and several lakes and ponds, including Lake
Sebago, to the E. and S.E. The other Mt. Kearsarge (p. 314), 60 M. off,
is seen to the left of Chocorua. The descent may be made to Bartlett
(p 305). In descending to N. Conway a little care is necessary to follow
the route over the ledges. In the wood we keep mainly to the right, as
nearly possible straight down the incline.
Mountains. JACKSON. 43. Route. 323
Moat Mountain (N. peak, 3195 ft.; *View) may be ascended in 3-4 hrs.
from North Conway by an A. M C. path (sign-posts and cairns) beginning
near (3 M.) Diana"* Baths (p. 322). The path along the ridge of Moat
Mt. is plain, and the descent may be made via the S. peak (2775 ft.) to the
Swift River Road and Conway Centre (p. 304). — Middle Mt. (1850 ft.), another
good point of view, is ascended in 1 hr. by a path beginning near the
Forest Glen Mineral Spring (p. 822). The adjoining Peaked Mt. (1730 ft.;
1 hr.) is also easilv ascended, while a road (views) leads across Hurricane
Mt. (2110 ft.) to Fryeburg, in Maine (p 804).
Among the favourite Deives from N. Conway are those ''Around the
Square'' (5 M.), the '■Dundee Drive"" (12 M.), and to Jackson Falls (9 M. ; see
below). The distance through the White Mountain Notch to the Crawford
House (see p. 325) is 26 M.
Coaches run regularly in summer from N. Conway to (9 M.) Jackson
(see below), passing (5 M.) Glen Station (p. 305).
b. Jackson and the Glen House.
Jackson (760 ft. 5 Wentworth Hall, with annex-cottages, $4-5;
Gray's Inn, $21/2 5 Jackson Falls Ho., $2-21/2; Glen Ellis Ho., Eagle
Mt. Ho., Iron Mt. Ho., $2-3; boarding-houses) is overshadowed by
Iron ML (2725 ft.) and Thorn Mt. (2265 ft.). Good fishing. Went-
worth Hall has a small golf-conrse and good tennis-courts.
The chief excursion from .Jackson is the fine walk up the glen of the
Wild-Cat Brook (with the Jackson Falls) to the (8 M.) Carter Notch (p. 324),
between Mt. Wild-Cat (4415 ft.) and the Carter Dome (4860 ft.) Other
excursions are made to Goodrich Falls, IV2 M. to the S. (t^ne after heavy
rain only); to the top of (1 hr.) Thorn Mt (2265 ft.); to {i^/iM..) Fernald
Farm (view of Mt. Washington); to (6 M.) Prospect Farm (wide views)
and on to Q/2 M ) HaWs Ledge (view of Mt. Washington and Tuckerman's
Ravine) ; to the (3 M.) Winniweta Falls, etc.
Carriage to (20 M.) the top of Mt. Washington $ 6 each, inel. toU (there
and back $ 8) ; to Oorham (p. 324) $ 5 each.
The road from Jackson to the Peabody Glen runs to the N.
along the Ellis River, passing through the wooded Pinkham Notch
(2018 ft.) and affording glimpses to the left of the deep ravines of
Mt. Washington. About 8 M. from Jackson a path to the right
(sign-post) leads to the (V4 M.) *Glen Ellis Falls (70 ft.), and a
little farther on, to the left (sign-post), an A. M. C. path diverges
for the (3/8 M.) ^Crystal Cascade (80ft. ; hence to Tuckermans Ra-
vine, see pp. 332, 333). A steep road to the left farther on (now
impassable for carriages) j"oins the (IV2 M.) carriage-road from
the Glen Ho. to Mt. Washington (p. 332), 2 M. above the toU-
hoUse. About II/2 M. farther on, to the right, is a path leading to
(V4M.) Thompson's FaZZs (guide-board). To the left, within 100 yds.
of the road, is Emerald Fool.
12 M. (from Jackson) Glen House (1630 ft. ; $ 2), an unpretend-
ing hostelry recently erected on the site of a large summer-hotel,
burned down in 1894. The old hotel, owing to its fine situation on
the Peabody River, at the N.E. base of Mt. Washington, with Mts.
Clay, Jefferson, Adams, and Madison forming a grand line of sum-
mits to the N. of it, was long a favourite centre for excursions in
the White Mts. and particularly for the ascent of Mt. Washington ,
324 Route 43. GORHAM. The White
the carriage-road to the top of which hegins here (comp. p. 332).
The new honse plays the same role on a more limited scale, and is
largely frequented for meals by antomobile and driving parties.
Among tlie aacents conveniently accomplished from this point are
those of Carter Dome (4860 ft. ; to the Carter Notch, 3i50-33i;0 ft., with an
A.M. C. camp 3-4 hrs. ; thence to the top IV2-2V2 hrs.) and Mt. Wild-Cat
(4415 ft.; l-lV2hr. from Carter Notch). The latter commands a fine 'View
of Mt. Washington. — Good walkers taking the Osgood Path, may reach
the top of Mt. Washington via Mts. Madisun, Adams, Jefferson, and Clay in
9 hrs. (with guide); and the Appalachian Cluh hag also constructed a
blazed path along the whole Carter Range (9 M. ; fine views; A. M. C. camp
near top oi Imp Mt., 3735 ft., see below) to Mt. Moriah (see below). — On
the Peabody, about 3/4 M. to the N., are the so-called Garnet Fools, and
11/4 M. to the N.W. are the Osgood Cascades. — '^Tucker man"* Ravine, seep. 333.
Beyond the Glen Honse the road descends through the *Peabody
Glen, affording a series of fine views. By crossing (2 M.) the bridge
over the Peabody and turning to the right, we may reach a point
revealing the profile of Imp Mt. [see above). Farther on our road
crosses the river and soon reaches —
19 M. (from Jackson) Oorham.
c. Gorham and Sandolph.
Gorliam(810ft. ; Mt. Madison Ho., $ 2-3; Island View Ho., $2),
the N. gateway to the White Mts., is a village with about 1800
inhab., finely situated at the confluence of the Androscoggin and the
Peabody and commanding a charming view of hill and valley. To
the S. is the Peabody valley, with Mts. Moriah and Carter to the
left; to the N.E., Mt. Hayes; to the N.W., the PHot Mts. The
peaks of the Presidential Range (see p. 321) are concealed by Pine
Mt. (2440 ft.), which rises in the S.W. foreground, but they are
well seen from adjacent points.
A good point of view in the immediate vicinity is the Lart/ Farm
13/4 M. to the N.). — Perhaps the best of the shorter walks is that to the
top of Mt. Hayes (2600 ft. -, 2V2-3 hrs.), 2 M. to the N.E. The easy and well
marked path begins at the N. end of the suspension-bridge over the Andros-
coggin and ascends directly, through wood, to (i^/s M.) the ridge and (V2 M.)
the summit. The 'View includes (from left to right) Mt. Moriah, Imp Mt.,
and Carter Mt. to the S. ; the valley of the Peabody (Pinkham Notch), a
little to the right; to the S.W., Mt. Washington, the low Pine Mt. (in
the foreground). Mt. Madison, and Mt. Adams; to the W., Cherry Mt., Owl's
Head, and (more to the right) Randolph 3It. and Mt. Starr King; to the
N.W., the Pilot Mts., Deer 3It., and the twin Percy Peaks. Some author-
ities consider this the best view of Mt. Washington.
Mt. Surprise (2i30 ft.), a spur of Mt. Moriah, to the S.E. of Gorham,
may be ascended in 2 hrs. by a path through wood (boy to show its
beginning desirable), and commands a fine 'View of the Presidential
Range (camp at the top). — A well-marked path leads hence to the (2-3 hrs.)
top of Mi. Moriah (4065 ft. ; *View), whence the walk may be continued
along the Carter Range (see above).
Mountain-waggons run in connection with the train, from Gorham, via
the Glen House (p. 323) to the top of (I6V2 M.) Mt. Wathinuton (5 hrs.;
return 3 hrs.; fare $ 8; comp. p. 333). Stages also ply to (19 M.) Jackson
(4 hrs ; fare $ 4 ; comp. p. 323).
Pleasant drives may also be taken along the S. bank of the Andros-
coggin to (11 M. to the E.) Oilead Bridge, returning on the N. bank by
Mountains. RANDOLPH. 43. Route. 325
the Lead Mine Bridge (S^/z M. from Gorham; *View) ; to the N., along the
'Milan Road' to (6 M.) Berlin (p. 303) and (14 M.) Milan Corner; and W.
to the Crawford House and the White Mountain Notch (see below), either
(35 M.) via (17 M.) Jefferson, the 'Cherry Mt. Road', the White Mt. House^
and the Fabyan Mouse (see p. 327 ; splendid views), or (25 M.) by the
new road leaving the Jeflferson road between Bowman (see below) and
Jefferson Highlands (p. 303) and ascending through the Jefferson Notch
(comp. Map). A grand walk for a good pedestrian would be to ascend Mt.
Madison (p. 833) and proceed thence via Mts. Adams and Jefferson (see p. 334)
to Mt. Washington (guide necessary ; 1-2 days).
Gorham is a station on the Grand Trunk Railway from Portland to
Montreal, and on the B. & M. line from Berlin to Whitefield (comp. p. 303,
and Map, p. 320). The stations are 2 M. apart (stage).
Eandolph s the name of the township adjoining Gorham on
the "W. and as a tourist centre may he taken to include the vici-
nity of the three stations Randolph, Appalaehia, and Bowman, on
the railway from Berlin and Gorham to Whitefield (comp. p. 303).
The chief hotels are the Ravine House ($ 2V2) at Appalachia, the
Mt. Crescent House ($2), and the Mountain View House ($2).
Randolph is frequented mainly by 'mountaineers', and its guides
(comp. p. 320) are the best in the district (see map in A. M. C.
guidebook mentioned at p. 321).
The chief ascents from Randolph are the following : Mt. Madison (5380 ft.),
from Appalachia, in 3-4 hrs. (comp. p. 333); Mt. Adams (5805 ft.; *View),
either from Appalachia in 31/2-4V2 brs. by the Air Line Path (A. M. C.) or
from Bowman via Lowe's Path in 31/2-4 hrs. ; Mt. Jefferson (5725 ft.), from
Bowman by the Castle Path f A. M. C.) in 4V2-5 hrs. ; Mt. Washington (p. 331),
via Mt. Jeft'erson, in one day. From 'Lowe's Path' (see above) a fatiguing
path ascends to the left through "King'^s Ravine to the top of Mt. Adams. —
Randolph Hill (1700 ft.), 3 M. from Randolph by a good road, commands
a fine view of the Presidential Range. — The three stations named above
all lie on the road between Gorham and Jefiferson (comp. above) and may
be made the starting-point of various pleasant drives.
d. Crawford House and the Notch.
The * Crawford House (1900 ft; from $41/2 a day or $ 21 a
week ; somewhat cheaper at the Annex ; golf and tennis), one of the
most popular hotels in the White Mts., occupies a solitary site on a
small plateau, 1/4 M. above the N. entrance to the White Mt. Notch.
The small pool in front of the house is the source of the Saeo River,
flowing to the S. through the Notch to Maine and the sea, while the
Ammonoosuc, also rising close to the hotel, flows N. (and then W.)
to the Connecticut. The railway-station (p. 305) is near the hotel.
To the S.W. rises Mt. Tom and to the E. Mt. Clinton, while in
front, enclosing the Notch, are Mt. Willard (right) and Mt. Webster
(left; see p. 326).
The railway route through the *Crawford or White Mountain
Notch (1915 ft.) has been described at p. 305 and affords some of the
finest, though most fleeting, views of it. The Notch is seen to greater
advantage in descending. The road and river enter it through a rocky
^Gateway, 25 ft. wide, while a separate cutting has been made for
the railway (above, to the right). To the left is the rock known
326 Route 43. CRAWFORD NOTCH. The White
as the Elephants Head (*View). Within the Notch various fantastic
names have heen given to rocks supposed to resemble human faces,
etc. About 3/^ M. from the Crawford Ho., to the left, the Flume
Cascade descends, in three leaps, from a height of 250 ft. ; and V4M.
farther on is the graceful * Silver Cascade^ vpith a total faU of
900 ft., of which about 300 ft. are seen from the road. The Willey
House (1325 ft.), a small inn 3 M. from the Crawford Ho. and 300 ft.
below the railway, was the scene of a terrible disaster in Aug., 1826.
The whole Willey family, 9 in number, rushing from the house to
escape a land-slip, apparently descending directly upon it, were
overtaken and crushed, while the house escaped harm through the
splitting of the land-slide by a rock. The Notch proper ends just
below the site of the Willey Ho. (burned down in 1899), but it is
well worth while to continue the walk or drive to Bemis, whence,
if necessary, we may return by railway. At the (1V4"1V2 ^0 ^^w
or Avalanche Brook (the second brook below the Willey Ho.), we
may cross the railway and ascend to the right to (1^/4 M.) the *Bipley
or Sylvan Olade Falls (110 ft.) , about 1 M. above which is the
Sparkling Cascade. Continuing to follow the road along the Saco,
we reach (2 M. ; 6 1/2 M. from the Crawford Ho.) Bemis Brook, along
which a path ascends to (1 M.) the picturesque *Arethusa Falls
(175 ft). Bemis (rail, stat, p. 305) is 2 M. farther down. The Mts.
to the left at this part of the road are the Giant's Stairs (3423 ft.),
Mt. Resolution (3400 ft), and Mt. Crawford (3100 ft), while Mt,
Nancy (3810 ft) towers to the right. Drivers may go on from Bemis
to (181/2 M.) North Conway (p. 321).
*Mt. Willard (2786 ft.), easily ascended by a carriage-road (2 M.), crossing
the railway below the station, commands a splendid *View of the Notch
(afternoon- light best). Near the top (S. side) is a cavern known as the
DeviVs Den. accessible by ropes only. The Hitchcock Flume, 350 ft. long
and 50 ft. high, is reached by a path to the left, V4 M. from the summit. —
Ascent of "Mt. Washington., see p. 333. — Ascents of Mts. Clinton (4275 ft.),
Franklin (5028 ft.), Monroe (5390 ft.), and Pleasant Dome (4775 ft.), see p. 833.
— The ascent of Mt. Webster (3876 ft.) is comparatively easy and well worth-
while. — The views from Mt. Tom (4040 ft.) and Mt. Field (4300 ft.) are
obscured by trees, but that from the easily ascended Mt. Avalon (3432 ft. ;
IV2 hr.), a spur of Mt. Field, is fine and almost unrestricted. — A better
view is obtained from Mt. Willey (4260 ft. ; 2-3 hrs. ; well-marked path be-
ginning just above Willey Station, 4 M. from the Crawford House).
Pleasant short walks may be taken to (1/2 M.) the Elephanfs Head (see
above), Beecher''s Cascades (3/4 M. ; path crossing a foot-bridge over the
railway and ascending through wood on the left bank of the stream),
Tearl Cascade (1 M.), Bugle Cliff (3/4 M.), Red Bench (1/2 M. ; view of Mt.
Washington), and the Shapleigh Path (1 M.). Gibbs Falls (Vz M.) are reached
by turning to the left and ascending through wood and along a brook.
Between the Crawford House and (4 M.) Fahyan't (p. 327) the road and
railway descend 330 ft. (80 ft. per mile).
e. Bretton Woods, Fabyan House, Twin Mt. House, and Zealand.
Bretton Woods (an old name revived), 31/2 M. from the Craw-
ford House, is the station for the *]ttt. Washington Hotel (500
beds; from $5 or $6 per day) and the older *Mt. Pleasant House
Mountains. FABYAN HOUSE. 43. Route 327
(from $ 41/2 a day or $ 25 a week). The former (ca. 1600 ft.), the
most pretentious hotel in the White Mts., is splendidly situated
on a spur of Mt. Deception (see helow) and commands a magni-
ficent vie-w. It is a great resort of automobilists. The Mt. Pleasant
House is close to the railway- station (p. 305). Between the two
hotels lies a rather flat golf-course.
From the Mt. Pleasant House a path ascends to the top of Mt. Stickney
(2570 ft ; view). — A coach runs on week-days between the Mt. Washington
Hotel and the Crawford Ho. (p. 325).
Uppeb Falls of the Ammonoosuc, 2^/4 M. from the Mt. Washington
Hotel. We follow the road to the left, passing a Monument to E. A.
Crawford, one of the earliest settlers in the White Mts. The *Falls (30-40 ft.
high) are picturesque, with their grey granite walls, water-worn basins,
and grand mountain-background. — The (2^4 M.) Lower Ammonoosuc Falls
are near the White Mt. House (see below).
The Fabyan House (1577ft.; from $41/2 a day, or $21 a week;
less at the Annex), another large hostelry, stands on the site of the
Giants Grave, a djift-mound on the Ammonoosuc river, V2 M. to
the W. of the Mt. Washington Hotel. It commands fine views of
the mountains and is the junction of the railway to the top of Mt.
Washington (see p. 331; comp. pp. 305, 318).
The old White Mt. House (§ 21/2), V* M. to the N.W. (rail, stat., aee
p. 805) is smaller and cheaper. A path ascends hence to the top of Mt.
Deception (8700 ft.).
The Twin Mountain House (1375 ft. ; from $ 3 a day or $ 14
a week; rail, stat., p. 305) is pleasantly situated on the Ammonoosuc,
5 M. to the W. of the Fabyan House, but does not command so fine
a view. The mountains opposite it are Mt. Hale (4102 ft. ; left) and
the North Tioin (4783 ft. ; right), the latter concealing the South Twin
(4922 ft.). The smaller Rosehrook Inn ($2) may also be mentioned.
The path to the top of the North Twin Mt. is marked with sign-posts,
but a guide is desirable (8-4 hrs.). The continuation thence to the South
Twin, Mt. Guyot (4590 ft.), and (4 hrs.) Mt. Bond (4709 ft.) may be followed
with little difficulty. The fine Cliffs of Bond are to the S.W. of the main
summit. From the top of Mt. Bond the trail descends to the S.E. to
(8 hrs.) the Femigewasset River, whence a walk of IV2-2 hrs. more brings
us to a lumber railroad near the Franconia Trestle. This excursion
necessitates a night in camp.
From Zealand, 1 M. to the E. of the Twin Mt. Ho., we may follow a
disused railway-track to (7 M.) Zealand Pond (2460 ft.) and (9 M.) Thoreau
Falls, which descend 2(X) ft. in 1/2 M., in the deep valley between Mt. Bond
(see above) on the right and the Willey Mt. (p. 326) on the left.
f. Bethlehem and Maplewood.
Bethlehem and Maplewood are reached by a short railway from Bethlehem
Junction (comp. p. 805).
The train from Bethlehem Junction (p. 305) crosses the Ammo-
noosuc and soon reaches —
2M. Maplewood, a small station for a group of hotels and summer
cottages. The * Maplewood (iAQO ft.; from $5, weekly from $21;
400 guests), one of the handsomest and most fashionable hotels in the
White Mts., commands a splendid distant *yiew of Mt. Washington.
328 Route 43. BETHLEHEM. The White
Adjacent are the Maplewood Cottage (from $ 3 a day and $ 12^2
a week) and an excellent Oolf Course. Public conveyances nm
frequently to Bethlehem (10 c). Mt. Agassiz (see below; 2 M.) is
ascended by a path beginning behind the Maplewood Hotel and pro-
ceeding through wood past (1 M.) a view-tower. The Bethlehem
(excursions see below) may all be made from Maplewood.
3 M. Bethlehem or Bethlehem Street [Sinclair Ho.^ from $ 31/2;
Highland Ho., The Alpine, The Uplands. Arlington, $ 21/2-3 ; Tur-
ner Ho., $ 2-2V2 5 and many others), with 1260 inhab., finely situated
1460 ft. above the sea and 260 ft. above the Ammonoosuc, is visited
annually by 10-15,000 summer-guests. It commands magnificent
views of the White and the Green Mts. The 'White Mountain Echo'
is published here. Bethlehem is said to be immune from hay fever,
and the Hay Fever Convention meets here annually.
Mt. Agassiz (2394 ft.), whieh risea at the back of the village, is
ascended in ^/i-i hr. We follow the road leading S. from the Sinclair Ho.
to (25min.) a house with a sign referring to the toll to Mt. Agassiz (25 c., pay-
able at the summit, only by those who wish to enter the view-tower). A
carriage may be obtained here for the rest of the trip (there and back 50 c.
each; from Bethlehem, ordered by telephone, 75c., from Maplewood $1).
Here we turn to the left and follow the path through wood to (25 min.)
the top. The *View includes mountains on every side, the names of which
are given by rough mountain -indicators on the top of the view-tower.
Mt. Washington is seen to the E., Mt. Lafayette to the S., the Green Mts.
to the W. The descent may be made to Maplewood (p. 327; not advis-
able in waning light, as the 'trail' through the woods is not very distinct). —
CrufVs Ledge^ 2 M. to the E. (reached by a path beginning beyond the
Maplewood Hotel), and Wallace Hill, 31/4 M. to the W., are other good
points of view. — Favourite drives are the Cherry Valley Drive (5 31.), Around
the Heater (6 M.; views of Franconia Mts.), to (7 M.) Twin Mt. Ho., to
(71/2 M.) Sugar Hill, to (10 M.) Profile House (also reached by train, see
below), to (15 M.) Jefferson, and to (17 M.) Crawford Hotise. To reach the
top of Mi. Washington via Fabyan's takes 2-2V2 hrs. by train.
g. The Franconia Mts. Profile House.
The Franconia Mts., included in the wider acceptation of the
name White Mts. (seep. 321), is the small group of summits between
the Twin Mt. Range on the E. and the Pemigewasset Range on the
W. The sharp-peaked Mt. Lafayette (p. 329) is the monarch of
the group, and the Profile House is the chief tourist -centre. On
the W. the range is bounded by the Franconia Notch (p. 329),
though in popular speech the term includes the mountains to the W.
of this valley. Most of the Franconia Mts. are densely wooded.
The Profile Hou.ie is reached from Bethlehem Junction by a branch-rail-
way, 10 M. long, which runs through wood and affords little view. To
the right, as we approach the terminus, lies Echo Lake (p. 329). — Route
to the Profile House from Plymouth, through the Pemigewasset Valley, see
p. 317.
The * Profile House (1974 ft.; from $5 or $6, weekly from
$ 30), one of the largest of the White Mt. hotels, stands, with its
group of cottages, at the N. end ©f the Franconia Notch (p. 329), to
the W. of Mt. Lafayette.
Mountains. FRANCONIA NOTCH. 43. Route. 329
About V2 M. to the N. of the hotel, to the right (E.) of the road, is the
pretty little *Echo Lake (1925 ft.), where fine echoes are aroused by bugle
(small fee; steam-launch round the lake, 1-5 pers. 75c., each addit. pers.
15 c). At the foot of the lake is Artists'' Bluff, a good point of view. —
Eagle Cliff (1470 ft. above the hotel), close to the hotel on the E., is a
fine specimen of rock-formation (well seen from Profile Mt.). — Profile
Mt. or Mt. Cannon (4107 ft.), opposite the Eagle Cliff, is ascended in
2-2V2 hrs. by a somewhat steep path beginning to the S. of the hotel and
running first through wood and then over rocky ledges. 'View of Mt.
Lafayette. The Cannon Rock lies a little below the summit, on the E.
side. The Profile Ledge* (see below), reached from above by a somewhat
steep scramble (no path), afford one of the best points of view. — Bald
Mt. (2310 ft.), to the N. of Echo Lake , is easily ascended in V* hr. by a
cart-track diverging to the right from the road, 1 M. to the N. of the
hotel (*View; afternoon-light best). — *Mt. Lafayette (5270 ft.) is ascended
in 2V2-3V2 hrs. by a steep bridle-path diverging to the left from the road
in front of the hotel and skirting the S. side of Eagle Cliff (to Eagle Lakes,
I1/4-I3/4 hr.; thence to the top about as long). The sharp pyramidal
summit commands a splendid "View, including the Pemigewasset Valley
to the S., the Connecticut Valley and the Green Mts. to the W., and Mt.
Garfield (close at hand) and the Presidential Range to the N.E.
Most of the excursions from the Flume House (see below) can be
made from the Profile House at a small additional expenditure of time.
The *Fraiicoiiia Notch is a narrow wooded defile, 5 M. long,
traversed by the Pemigewasset River and flanked by the Franconia
Mts. on the E. and the Pemigewasset Range on the W. It lies about
2000 ft. above the sea, and the enclosing mountains rise 1500-
3000 ft. higher. Frequent coaches run through the Notch to (5M.)
the Flume Ho. and thence to (5 M.) North Woodstock (p. 317).
Starting from the Profile House to walk or drive through the
Notch to (5 M.) the Flume House (see below), we soon reach a sign-
post by the roadside marking the best point of view for the ^Profile
or Old Man of the Mountain, a curious freak of nature formed by
three protruding and disconnected ledges, 1200 ft. above us, on the
side of Cannon or Profile Mt. (right; see Hawthorne's 'Great Stone
Face'). Below the Profile, to the right of the road, 1/2 M. from the
hotel, is Profile Lake (boats). The road for the most part runs
through wood and affords no views. About 2^/2 M. from the hotel, to
the right, a bridle-path diverges to (1^4 M.) Lonesome or Moran
Lake, on Cannon Mt., 1000 ft. above the road. To the left, 1/2 M.
farther on, a sign-post points the way to Walker s Falls (I/2 M.) and
Cataract (1 M.). These lie in a ravine below Mt. Lincoln (5098 ft.),
to the S. of Mt. Lafayette. To the right, 1 M. farther on, is the
Basin, a small pool by the roadside, where the imaginative see the
form of a human foot and leg in the rocks. A brook coming in here
may be ascended to (3/4 M.) the Tunnel Falls.
5 M. The *Flume House (1430 ft. 5 $ 31/2, weekly from $ 14),
at the S. end of the Franconia Notch, is smaller, qxiieter, and cheaper
than the Profile House, and well situated for excursions. It lies at
the base of Mt. Pemigewasset, opposite Mt. Liberty and Mt. Flume.
A sign-post in front of the hotel indicates the route to (2/4 M.) the
*Flume, a fine rocky gorge, 700 ft, long, 60-70 ft. high, and 10-20 ft.
wide. It is traversed by a foaming stream, up which the path is carried
Bakdekek's United States. 4th Edit. 21
330 Route 43. JEFFERSON. The White
by wooden galleries and bridges. Traces are still discernible of the landslip
of 1883, which carried away the boulder formerly suspended in the narrow-
est part of the ravine. — Another sign-post in front of the hotel points to
(Va M.) the ''Pool, a basin in the solid rock, 150 ft. wide and 40 ft. deep,
over-shadowed by cliffs 150 ft. high. — The (3 M.) *^Georgianna or Harvard
Falls (two leaps of 80 ft.) are reached by a path leaving the highroad_to
the right at a farm-house (guide), 1 M. to the S. of the Flume House."
ML Liberty (4472 ft. ; view) may be ascended in 3-4 hrs. (descent
2-3 hrs.) by a path via the head of the Flume and LangtorCs Falls. This
path is continued to the (2 M.) top of Mt. Haystack. A long (9-10 hrs.) but
interesting walk leads along the ridge from Mt. Liberty to Mt. Lafayette,
via Mt. Haystack. — The ascent of Mt. Flume (4340 ft. ; *View) is some-
what arduous. — Mt. Femigewasset (2560 ft.), ascended by a steep bridle-
path in 1/2- 1 hr. is a good and easily reached view-point.
Pranconia (920 ft.; Forest Hill Hotel, from $4, for antomobUe parties
from $ 31/2, IV2 M. from the village of Franconia and 7 M. from Littleton ;
Peckett Cottages, from S 3 or $ 31/2, 1 M. from the village; Mt. Lafayette Ho.,
$2, etc.), situated on the Gale River, 6 M. to the S. of Littleton (p. 318;
daily coaches), 4 M. to the S.W. of Bethlehem, and 4 M. to the N.E. of the
Profile Ho., is frequented by many summer-visitors. It affords good views
of the Franconia Mts. and is a fair centre for excursions.
Sugar Hill (1350 ft.; "Sunset Hill Ho., $ 4, 3/4 M. from the village;
Hotel Look Off, 1/4 M. farther on, from § 3, etc.), 2V2 M. to the S.W. of
Franconia and 6 M. from the railway-station of Sugar Hill (p. 318; daily
stages), is another favourite resort. Superb *View from the summit of
the ridge (1780 ft.) from which the village takes its name, including the
Franconia Mts. and the Presidential Range to the E. and the Green
Mts. (p. 310) to the W. The Sunset Hill House has a small golf course.
h. Jefferson.
Jefferson (1440 ft.; ^Waumbek, from $4; Grand View Ho.,
$ 2-2^2)? situated on a spur of Mt. Starr King, above the Israel River,
is a station on the Boston & Maine R. R. and lies about 2 M. from
Bailey's Station on the Maine Central line (p. 305; hotel-omnibuses
to meet the trains), 12 M. to the N. of Fabyan's, and 17 M. to the
W. of Gorham (comp. p. 325). Along the road running to the S.E.
from Jefferson to (4 M.) Jefferson Highlands (station, p. 303) and
(5 M.) the Mt. Adams Ho. ($2; comp. Map) are several comfortable
boarding-houses (Cold Spring Ho., Pliny Range Ho., Highland Ho.,
etc.), all commanding fine general views of the White Mts.
Mt. Starr King (3915 ft.), the southernmost summit of the Pilot
Range, is ascended by a well-marked path from the Waumbek Hotel in
IV2-2V4 brs. The *View embraces the White Mts., the Franconia Mts.,
the Green Mts., the valley of the Connecticut, and the Pilot Mts. (to the
N.). — Owl's Head (3270 ft. ; *View) may be ascended from Cherry Mt.
Station (p. 303), by Stanley's Slide (toll 25 c.) in IVshr. Bray Hill (1640ft.),
an eminence 4 M. to the S.W. of Jeffersun, affords a good view.
Among the chief excursions from the Mt. Adams House (which is near
Boy Mountain station, p. 303) are the walks by the so-called Gastelluted
Ridge path to (7 M.) Jefferson and that to the S.E. to (5 M.) Cascade Camp.
The ''Deive from Jefferson to (17 M.) Gorham (comp. p. 325) or (19 M.)
the Glen House affords a splendid, unimpeded *View of the N. side of
the Presidential Range; and that to (18 M.) the Crawford House (p. 325),
either via the Cherry Mt. Road or through the Jefferson Notch (comp. p. 325),
is also fine. Other favourite drives are the rounds via Stag Hollow and
the Valley Road (9 M.), and via Blair''s Mills, the Valley Road, and Cherry
Mt. Road (18 M.). Lancaster (p. -305) is 7 M. to the W.N.W.
Mountains. MOUNT WASHINGTON. 43. Route. 331
i. Mount Washington.
Mt. Washington (6293 ft.), the highest mountain in the United
States to the E. of the Rockies and N. of N. Carolina , deserves its
rank as monarch of the "White Mts. as much for the grandeur of its
form as for its height. On the N. and E. it is furrowed hy several
huge ravines, of which Tuckerman's (see p. 333) is the hest-known.
The group of buildings at the top includes the Summit House, a com-
fortable inn in which the night may be spent ($ 5 a day, $ 25 a week ;
meal or bed $ iVz) ; a disused U. S. Signal Service Station; the office of
'•Among the Clouds\ a daily paper published here in summer ; the old Tip-
Top House; stables; an engine-house, etc. The summit is now annually
visited by about 10,000 people. Warm clothing should be brought, as even
at midsummer the temperature is very low (30-50°). A temperature of
60° below zero has been observed in winter.
Botanists will find much to interest them in the flora of Mt. Washington,
the plants on and near the summit being identical with those of the Arctic
Circle. The happiest hunting-ground is the so-called ''Alpine Garden'', a
terrace to the E. of and below the cone. See the Geology of New Hampshire.
The ordinary starting-points for the ascent of Mt. Washington are the
Fabyan House, the Crawford House, and the Glen House, while the route
over the Northern Peaks (p. 333) is a favourite one with tried pedestrians.
Travellers should ascend one way and descend another. The routes from
the E. side (p. b32) are, perhaps, the finest. A good walker can ascend from
the Crawford House and descend to the Glen House in one long day.
The **ViEW from Mt. Washington is one of the finest and most
extensive in the Eastern States, reaching into Canada on the N. It
is particularly grand at sunrise or sunset, but the summit is some-
times swathed in mist or clouds for days at a time. The atmospheric
phenomena are often very interesting.
View. To the N., across the 'Great Gulf, rise Mts. Clay, Jefferson,
Adams, and Madison; a little farther to the right are Mt. Hayes and the
Androscoggin Valley. Gorham is hidden by Pine Mt. To the N. E. vre
look over the deep valley in which the Glen House lies to Mt. Moriah,
to the right of which follow Mt. Carter, the Carter Dome, Carter Notch, and
Mt. Wild-Cat. In the distance, towards the N. E., are the Rangeley Lakes
and mountains on the Canadian border. To the E. we see Baldface Pleasant
Dome (with its hotel), and other lower mountains, in the State of Maine.
To the S. E. are the pyramidal Mt. Kearsarge and other hills round North
Conway, with the Ellis River flowing down to join the Saco. Directly
below us is Tuckerman's Ravine. Lake Sebago is also seen, while Port-
land and the ocean are visible on a clear morning. To the S. are Ossipee
Lake and Lake Winnipesaukee, with Mt. Chocorua between them, whUe
more in the foreground are the Giant's Stairs and Mt. Webster, rising
over the White Mt. Notch. The stream seen here is the Mt. Washington
River. On the other side of the Notch (S. W.) rise Mts. Nancy, Carrigain,
Willey, and Field, while Mt. Moosilauke appears on the horizon a little
more to the right. The Lakes of the Clouds lie below Mt. Monroe, in
the S. W. foreground. To the S. of W. the finely-shaped Mt. Lafayette is
seen among the other Franconia Mts. ; while almost due W. opens the
valley of the Ammonoosuc (with the Mt. Washington and Fabyan Hotels),
with the Green Mts. and even the Adirondacks visible in the distance. To
the N. W. are Cherry Pond, Jefferson, and the Israel River, with Mt. Starr
King and the Percy Peaks in the distance. The most distant points said to
be visible in exceptionally favourable weather are Mt. Beloeil (p. 315),
135 M. to the N. W.; Mt. Wachusett, 126 M. , and Mt. Monadnock (see.
p. 309), 104 M. to the W. of S. ; and Mt. Whiteface (p. Ill), 130 M. to the W.
Ascent or Mt. Washington by Rail way. A branch-line runs
from the Fabyan House (p. 327) via Bretton Woods (p. 3'26) to
21*
332 Route 43. MOUNT WASHINGTON. The White
(6 M.) Marshfield or Ammonoosue, generally known as the Base
Station (2670 ft.), the starting-point of the Mt. Washington
Eailway, which was constrncted on the cog-wheel principle in
1866-69 (before the Rigi Railway) and ascends on the W. side of
the mountain. The distance to the summit (3 V^o M.) is accomplished
in 1^4 hr. (return-fare $4) 5 the average gradient is 1:4, the maxi-
mum gradient 1 : 2^/s. The season begins in July, and two or more
trains run daily. This is by far the most frequented ascent.
The train ascends steeply through wood. 3/^ M. Cold Spring.
Beyond (1 M.) Waumhek Junction (3910 ft.; water - station) the
trees become thinner. At JacoVs Ladder (^5470 ft. ; water-tank), a
long trestle-work, 30 ft. high in the middle, the gradient is at its
steepest. We now pass the forest line and enjoy fine views. To the
left are the 'humps' of Mt. Clay, with the 'Great Gulf' yawning
below them and the peaks of Mts. Jefferson and Adams above. From
the (21/4 M.) Gulf Tank (5800 ft.) to the summit the ascent is
easier. We see the carriage-road to the left, and pass the monument
(right) erected on the spot where Miss Bourne died of exhaustion in
1855. 31/10 M. The Summit Hou<e (p. 331). — When the trains
are running walkers are not allowed on the track, but in winter it
forms the best footpath to the summit from this side.
Special combination railway and stage tickets, g' od for 5 days, are
issued, allo^ ing passengers to start in the morning from the Profile House,
Bethlehem. Jeffer-on, .lackson, North Conway, or other points to the W.
of the Presidential Range, ascend Mt. Washington by railway, and descend
on the other side by coach (Glen & Mt. Washington Stage Co.) to Glen
House and Glen Station (p. 305), whence they regain their starting-point
by train. Fabyan is left at 9.2U a.m., tbe summit at 1 p.m., Glen Station
at 6.32 p m. — Fabyan is regained at 7.55 p m. (B^-thlehem 9 p.m., Profile
House y.lO p.m.). Round-trip fare from Fabyan $9.76, from Profile Ho.
$11.25, from other places in proportiun.
Ascent from the E. Side. An excellent carriage-road (average
gradient 1 : 8) was constructed from the Glen House (p. 323) to
(81/2 M.) the Summit House in 1855-1861, and mountain-carriages
ascend by this route from Gorham and from Jackson in ca. 5 hrs.
(return-fare $ 8 each, incl. toUj descent $3). Toll for foot-pass-
engers 16c. — Walkers may also ascend from the Pinkham Notch
via Tuckermans Ravine (A. M. C path) in 41/2-6 hrs. or by the
Glen Boulder Path (A. M. C.) starting near the Glen Ellis Falls,
in 6-7 hrs.
a. By Road. From the Glen House the road at first ascends rapidly
through wood, and 2 M. up is joined by the abandoned road mentioned at
p. 323. 31/2 M. Halfway House (3840 ft.). At (4 M.) the Ledge we emerge
from the trees and obtain a fine ''View of the 'Great Gulf, with the
other peaks of the Presidential Range beyond it. The road now ascends,
less steeply, along the edge of the Great Gulf. It then turns sharply to
the left (S.S.E.) and ascends along a shoulder, making another loop to
the right ('Cape Horn') farther up (*Views). The final ascent of the cone
is steep.
b. On Foot theoogh Tdckerman's Ravine (4-5 hrs.; a fatiguing route,
but guide not necessary for mountaineers). We reach the ravine either
by an A. M. 0. footpath from the Crystal Cascade (p. 323), or by the
Mountains. MOUNT WASHINGTON. 43. Route. 333
Raymond Path (A . M. C). diverging to the left from the Mt. Washington
road, 2 M. from the Glen House (sign-post), and joining (2V4 M.) the
Crystal Cascade path.
*Tuckerman'B Ravine is a huge 'corrie'' on the S.E. side of Mt,Washing-
ton, enclosed by towering rocky walls 1000 ft. high. Following the Ap-
palachian path from the Crystal Cascade , through wood , we reach the
(IV2 M.) Hermit Lake (3650 ft., A. M. C. camp), a small tarn, commanding
magnificent views. A rough walk of '/< M. (i/z-V^ li^O brings us hence to
the ^Snote Arch, in the ravine proper, formed by the stream flowing under
the huge masses of snow piled up here in winter. The arch, which is
generally to be seen till August, shonld not be approached too closely, as
falls of heavy masses of snow are frequent. From the Snow Arch we may
reach the summit by a hard climb of I-IV2 hr. ; the route is marked by
cairns and by white paint on the rocks. Tuckerman's Ravine is often
visited as an excursion from the Summit House (there and back 3 hrs.) ;
the descent to the Gleu House takes 3-31/2 hrs. (view best in descending).
Ascent pbom the Cba-wford House (5-6 hrs.). For experienced
climbers a guide is unnecessary in clear weather, but novices should
not attempt it alone; in stormy weather it is impossible to be too
cautious. At least four fatal accidents have occured. The views are
very extensive.
The path begins to the E. of the Crawford House and ascends through
wood on the W. side of Mt. Clinton (to the left the path to Oibbs Falls,
p. 326). In 13/4-2 hrs. we reach the summit of Mt. Clinton (4275 ft.; view)
and have behind us the worst part of the route. The path now leads
along a ridge to the N.E., descends about 270 ft. , and then re-ascends. The
regular path leads to the right over the S.E. shoulder of Pleasant Dome
(4775 ft.-, small 'castle' at the top), but a less distinct trail to the left leads
to tbe (3/4- 1 hr.) top (*View), near which the footpath from the Pleasant Ho.
comes in (see below). We now descend in the same g:eneral direction to the
Red Pond, on the plateau (4400 ft.) between Pleasant Dome and Mt. Franklin.
To the right, beyond the pond, is Oakes Onlf (3000 ft. -, care necessary here
in foggy weather). Mt. Franklin (5028 ft.), reached in 3/4 1 hr. from Pleasant
Dome, is another good point of view. Between Mt. Franklin and Mt.
Monroe the path runs along a ridge, without much change of level. It
leads round the S. peak of Mt. Monroe and bends to the N. To the E. is
BooiVi Spur (5520 ft.), to the left the small Lakes of the Clouds (5050 ft.).
3/4-I hr. Mt. Monroe (5390 ft.) reached by a detour of V2 hr. from the main
path, commands one of the best near views of Mt. Washington. The path
next passes (V2 hr.) the gap (5100 ft.) between Mt. Monroe and Mt. Wash-
ington (A. M. C. Refuge Hut, without night-quarters), and ascends over the
rocky ledges on the S. side of the latter (the last part, up the cone,
steep; numerous cairns) to (I-IV2 hr.) the top of Mt. Washington (p. 331).
Ascent from the Mt, Pleasant House (43/4-61/2 hrs.).
This path starts at Barr oil's Camps on the Abenaki Brook, on a wood-
road leading E. from the new road connecting Crawford's with Jefferson,
follows an old 'logging road' for some distance, and ascends the W. side
of Pleasant Dome, near the (IV2-2 hrs.) top of which it joins the Crawford
Path (see above).
Route ovbb, the Northern Peaks (1-1 1/2 day, with guide).
The*Walk over Mts. Madison, Adams, Jefferson, and Clay to the summit
of Mt. Washington forms a fine but trying excursion for good mountaineers
with trustworthy guides. It is possible to do it in one long day, but it
is preferable to take two days and pass the night in the Madison Spring
Hut of the Appalachian Mt. Club (4S25 ft.; open to all; telephone).
The 'Views are very grand. Mt. Madison (5380 ft.) may be ascended
on the N. side by the so-called 'Valley Way', beginning at Appalachia,
6V2 M. to the W. of Gorham (comp. p. 326), and leading to (S^/s M.) the
Madison luring Hut (see above), in the depression between Mt. Madison and
Mt. Adams, whence the summit is reached in V2 hr. more (path difficult to
334 Route 44. WESTFIELD. From Boston
find, thougli marked by a few small cairns). We then return to the Hut,
follow the Gulfside trail to ("0 min.) the Air Line Path, and ascend by
the latter to (V2-V4 lir.) the top of Mt. Adams (5805 ft.)- We next descend
by Lowe's Path (p. 325) and Israel Bidge Path to the (20 min.) Gulfside
trail and follow the latter across the shoulder of Mt. Jefferson (5725 ft.),
the (IV2 hr ) top of which, reached by a short scramble to the left, affords
a fine * View of Mt. Washington. Between Mt. Jefferson and (1 hr.)
Mt. Clay (5554 ft.) tbe Gulfside trail descends 735 ft. Beyond Mt. Clay it
descends to (^4 hr.) the Mt. Washington carriage-road, 1/4 M. below the
summit of Mt. Washington (p. 331). — Mt. Madison may also be ascended
from the Glen House (p. 323) by the Osgood Path in 5-6 hrs. (hard climb-
ing). For Mt. Adams and Mt. Jefferson, comp. p. 325.
44. From Boston to Albany.
Comp. Map, p. 232.
a. By Boston & Albany Bailroad.
201 M. Railway in 5V2-TV2 hrs. (fare $3.80; parlor -car $1, sleeper
$ 1.50). To (39 M.) Saratoga in 1^/4 hr. more. Through-trains run by this
route to St. Louis, Chicago, Cincinnati, etc.
From Boston to (98 M.) Springfield, see R. 30a. Tte line to
New York diverges here to the left (S.), while our line crosses
the Connecticut and runs nearly due W. through the valley of the
Westfield River. 108 M. Westfield, with manufactures of whips and
cigars. The hills grow higher. HQ M. Huntington (AOO ft.). Beyond
(126 M.) Chester (620 ft.) the line climhs rapidly through a rocky
and wooded valley, contracting at places to a wild ravine. Numer-
ous small lakes. Near (134 M.) Becket (1200 ft.; Claflin Ho., $2)
we reach the flat top of the Hoosac Range (ca. 1400 ft.), and
farther on we hegin to descend again into the Berkshire Valley. For
a description of the Berkshire Hills, see R. 46. The descent to
(145 M.) Dalton (1050 ft.; * Irving Ho., $2-3), with large pape?-
mUls, is rapid and the scenery picturesque. Beyond it we cross
the Housatonic River. — 151 M. Pittsfield (1010 ft.), junction of
the Berkshire Division of the N. Y. N. H. & H. R. R., see p. 341.
Peosi Pittsfield to Nokth Adams, 21 M., railway in 3/4 hr. (fare
40c.). — 11 M. Cheshire; 1372 M. Cheshire Harbor, the starting-point of a
path to the top of Greylock (p. 343). — 16 M. Adams (Tbe Barret, from $ 2),
with a statue of President McKinley (1843-1901), by Augustus Lukeman, is
the nearest station to Greylock, which is ascended hence by a road joining
the just-mentioned path from Cheshire Harbor. — 21 M. North Adamt,
also connected with Pittsfield by electric tramway (comp. p. 342).
To the N. (right), at some distance, rises the double-peaked Grey-
lock (p. 343). The train now crosses the Housatonic, turns to the
left (S.), passes (1 54 M.) West Pittsfield (with a settlement of Shakers),
and at (162 M.) State Line enters the State of New York. We leave
the Berkshire Yalley by crossing the Taghkanic or Taconic Range
(ca. 2000 ft.) and then traverse an undulating wooded district. 177 M.
Chatham, the junction of lines to Hudson (p. 88), Lebanon Springs
(p. 342), and New York (comp. p. 74); 185 M. Mverville, with a
to Albany. GREENFIELD. U. Route. 335
fine park, mnch resorted to from Albany (comp. p. 88). Farther on
we see the Hudson to the left, and beyond (200 M.) Rensselaer we
cross it by a fine bridge (view).
201 M. Albany, see p. 91.
b. Vid, the Hoosac Tunnel.
199 M. FiTCHBDKG Railroad to (191 M.) Troy in 51/2-8 hra. ; New York
Central or Delaware and Hudson River Railroad thence to (8M.) Albany
in Va-Vzlir. (fares as at p. 334). Saratoga (p. 119) ia reached by this line,
via Johnsonville, in 6V2-8 hrs. Through- trains run to the Western cities.
The line skirts the N. margin of the Berkshire Mills (R. 46 5 views to the left).
From Boston to (60 M.) South Ashburnham, see pp. 306-309. At
(65 M.) Gardner (4,000,000 chairs made here yearly) we cross the
branch from Worcester (p. 240) to (16 M.) Princeton and (37 M.)
Winchendon (see p. 309).
From (82 M.) Athol a branch of the Boston & Albany R. R. rnns
to Springfield (p. 239). Beyond (97 M.) Miller's Falls we see Mt. Toby
(1275 ft.) to the left and Lake Pleasant (a great snmmer-resort of
Spiritnalists) to the right. We then cross the Connecticut and the
Deerfield and reach (105 M.) Greenfield (Weldon, from $ 21/2;
Mansion Ho., Devens, $ 21/2-4; Rail. Restaurant), a favonrite sum-
mer-resort and the junction of the Conn. River Division of the
B. & M. R. R. Excursions may be made hence to (3 M.) Deerfield
(p. 345), to Turner s Falls (41/2 M.), to the Coleraine, Leyden, and
Shelburne Gorges, to Springfield (p. 239 ; electric tramway), etc.
The train now follows the pretty valley of the Deerfield, with
Arthur's Seat (930 ft. 5 r.), and beyond the *Deerfield Gorge reaches
(119 M.) Shelburne Falls (Hotel, $ 2), where the river descends
150 ft. in two or three distinct falls. To the N. (r.) of (128 M.) Charle-
mont rises Pocomtuck Mt. (1890 ft.). We cross the stream and farther
on penetrate the Hoosac Range (2400 ft.) by the (135 M.) *Hoosac
Tunnel (765 ft.), which is 43/4 M. long (transit of 9 min. ; Simplon
Tunnel I2V4 M.) and was made in 1855-74 at a cost of $ 20,000,000
(4,000,000^.). It is the longest tunnel in the United States.
143 M. North Adams, see p. 342. The train descends the vaUey
of the Hoosic. To the left rises Greylock (p. 343), to the right East
Mt. (2200 ft.). 148 M. Williamstown, see p. 343. We turn to the
N.W. (right), cross a comer of Vermont, and enter New York State.
164 m. Hoosick Falls (PhcRniiL; trolley to Bennington, p. 129, 17 M.);
166 M. Hoosich Junction, for a branch-line to (11 M.) Bennington
and (68 M.) Rutland (see p. 129).
Near (175 M.) Johnsonville are the picturesque Falls of the
Battenkil. The railway forks here, the left branch leading to Troy
(see below), and the right to (189 M.) Mechanicville (p. 127) and
(212 M.) Rotterdam Junction (p. 139).
From (188 M.) East Saratoga Junction, on the latter branch, a' line runs
to (18 M.) Saratoga (p. 119).
191 M. Troy, seep. 128. Thence to (199 M.) Albany, see R, lib.
336
45. From New York to Pittsfield (Berkshire Hills).
Comp. Map, p. 232.
157 M. New York, New Haven, and Habtfokd Raelboad in 4-6 hrs,
(fare $ 3.25 ; parlor-car $ 1).
From New York to (411/2 M.) South Norwalk, see E. 30a. The
Danbuiy Division of the N. Y. N. H. & H. R. R. here diverges to
the left from the main line and ascends along the Norwalk River,
traversing a pretty wooded conntry, hecoming hillier as we proceed.
43 M. Norwalk (p. 235); 49 M. Wiltor^; 54 M. Branchville (340 ft.),
the junction of a short line to Ridgefield (800 ft.), the birthplace of
'Peter Parley' (S. G. Goodrich; 1793-1860); 59 M. Redding, the
birthplace of Joel Barlow (1754-1812), author of the 'Colnmbiad'.
— 62 M. Bethel, a prosperous little place with 2560 inhabitants.
The Litchfield Branch Eajleoad mns from Bethel to (38 M.) Litchfield
(1200 ft.; HavDkhurst, $3-4; U. S. Hotel, $ 2V2-3), a summer-resort in a
pretty, hilly district, near Bantam Lake (hotel, $ 2-2V2). Pop. (1900) 3000.
It was the birthplace of Henry Ward Beecher (1813-87; p. 76) and Mrs.
Beecher Stowe (1812-96; p. 239).
65 M. Danbnry (Waimac, Greene, Fairfield, $2-21/2), a town of
19,474 inhab., with large hat-factories, is the junction of the New
England R. R. (p. 239). — At (71 M.) Brookfield Junction (340 ft.)
we pass on to the Berkshire Division of the railway and are joined
by the line from New Haven and Bridgeport. The hills now 'begin
to show monntainous symptoms'. At (73 M.) Brookfield the Housa-
tonic, the beautiful vaUey of which we henceforth fellow, comes
into view on the right. To the left is the Still River. We cross the
Housatonic as we near (81 M.) New Milford (New England Ho.,
Wayside Inn, $ 2-2^/2), and thereafter have it to the left. Above
(94 M.) Kent, a prettily situated village, the valley contracts. 103 M.
Cornwall Bridge. To the left rises the Sharon Ridge (1500 ft.). —
1131/2 M. Falls Village (550 ft. ; Falls Village Inn, $ 2-3), near the
*Falls of the Housatonic (130 ft). A coach runs hence to Salisbury.
To the left (2V2M.) is Mt. Prospect (1475 ft.; good view). — 119 M.
Canaan (670 ft. ; Canfleld Inn, $ 21/2), a good centre for excursions.
Canaan Mt. (1500 ft.), 1 M. to the S.E., aflfords a view of the Housa-
tonic Valley, the Twin Lakes, and the Berkshire Hills (R. 46). The Ttrin
Lakes (see below) lie IV2 M. to the W. Excursions may also be made to
CampbelPs Falls (TVz M.), Sage''s Ravine (7M.; p. 338), etc.
Canaan is also a station on the Central New England E. E., which
runs hence to the S.E. to Norfolk and Winsted and to the S.W. to Twin
Lakes, Lakeville, and State Line (p. 334), all pleasant resorts.
We now pass from Connecticut into Massachusetts and enter the
district of the Berkshire Hills proper (R. 46).
The Taghkanic or Taconic Mts. rise to the left, and the Hoosac
Range to the right. Beyond (122 M.) Ashley Falls we cross the
Housatonic. 126 M. Sheffield (p. 337); I291/2 M. Great Barrington
(p. 338). — 134 M. Van Deusenville is the junction of a line to West
Stockhridge, State Line, and Albany (p. 91). Monument Mt. (p. 340)
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SHEFFIELD. 46. Eoute. 337
rises to the right. — i36 M. Housatonic; 139 M. Olendale. We cross
the river once more and bend to the right (E.). — I4OY2M. Stock-
bridge (p. 339). We cross the Housatonic several times. 142 M.
South Lee; 146 M. Lee (comp. p. 340) ^ 1481/2 M. Lenox Dale. At
(I5OY2 M.) Lenox Station omnibuses from (2V2 M.) Lenox (p. 340)
meet the trains, and there is also a tramway. 153 M. New Lenox.
157 M. Pittsfield (p. 341 5 Bail. Restaurant).
46. The Berkshire Hills.
The district known as the *Berkshire Hills, corresponding practically
to Berkshire County (pop. 98,330 in 1905) in the W. part of Massachusetts, is
50 M. long from N. to S. and 20-25 M. wide from E. to W., covering an
area of about 1300 sq. M. On the W. it is bounded by the Taconic Mts.
and the State of New York; on the E. by the Hoosac Mts., a S. prolong-
ation of the Green Mts. ; on the S. by Connecticut; and on the N. by Ver-
mont. The region confined between the two mountain-ranges is broken
up into a number of smaller valleys, interspersed with isolated hills ; and
for the gentle loveliness of a hill-country, as contrasted with a mountain
country, it is unsurpassed in the United States and has few rivals
elsewhere. The Hoosic flows through the district towards the N. to join
the Hudson, and the Eoutatonic flows S. towards Long Island Sound, while
innumerable small lakes and brooks add to its attractions. The praises of
the Berkshire Hills have been repeatedly sung by Longfellow, Bryant, Whit-
tier, Hawthorne, Beecher, and others. — The name of the Taconic Mts.
is well known in geology, as the non-fossiliferous Taconic formations
are regarded as a distinct system, intermediate between the Archaean
rocks and the Potsdam sandstone. — Perhaps the best Season to visit
the Berkshires is in autumn, as the brilliant autumnal tints of the American
woods are seen here to perfection. Fashion has decreed that the seaside
sojourn at Newport should be followed ere returning to town by a 'fall'
visit to the Berkshire Hills , and many people stay here till well on in
November. Lenox (p. 340) is the most fashionable resort, but Stockhridge
(p. 339), one of the loveliest villages in America, is perhaps an equally
good tourist-centre; while Pittsfield (p. 341), Great Barrington (p. 338),
and other places also form good headquarters. The Hotels are usually good
and not exorbitant. The Roads are well-adapted for driving, motoring,
and cycling. Carriage Hire is lower than at Newport or in the White Mts.
The Berkshire Street Railway (electric tramway) runs through the
district from Great Barrinfrton (p. 338) via (11 M.) Stockbridge (p 339),
Lenox Station (20 M. ; p. 340), Pittsfield (28 M. ; p. 341), Adams (43 M. 1
p. 334), North Adams (49 M.; p. 342), and (55 M.) Williamstown (p. 343)
to (69 M ) Bennington (p. 129) and (86 M.) Honsick Falls (p 335). At Pitts-
field and Cheshire (p 334) this line connects with the Pittsfield Street
Railway, which runs to Dalton, Hinsdale, Pontoosuc Lake, Lanesborough,
and other points. These lines afford a pleasant route from point to point,
and the fares are moderate.
Pittsfield is reached from Mte York in 4-6 hrs. (fare $ 31/4 ; see R. 45)
and from Boston (see R. 44a) in 4V2-5 hrs. (fare $ 3.40).
The S. half of the district has hitherto been the best known, and the
following description enumerates the chief points in order from S. to N.
Sheffield (675 ft. ; Elmhurst^ $2-3; rail, stat., see p. 336), a
quiet little village on the Housatonic, is known for its marble
quarries, which supplied the material for Girard College (p. 169).
Pop. (1905) 1782. Tobacco is largely grown in the neighbourhood.
Pine Knoll Park is a public reservation,
338 Route 46. GREAT BARRINGTON. Berkshire
Mt. Everett or "Washington (2624 ft. ; view) , sometimes called the
Dome, one of the highest of the Taconic Mts., rises 5 M. to the W. and is
frequently ascended hence (road to the base; path to the top '/z ^^•)- — The
She/field Elm, mentioned in the 'Autocrat of the Breakfast Table', is 1 M.
to the S. of the centre of the village. — Other pleasant points are Beards
Den, 1 M. to the W. ; '-Sage's PMvine, 6 M. to the S.W. ; TtBi7i Lakes, 5 M.
to the S.; the Ashley Falls (4 M.; p. 336); and the *Bashbish Falls, 7V2 M.
to the W.
From Sheffield we may proceed to theN., along the Housatonic,
either hy road (a pleasant drive) or railway, to (6 M.) —
Great Barrington (720 ft. ; ^Berkshire Inn, Main St., $2V2-3 ;
The Barrington , Berkshire Heights, from $3; Miller Ho., $2-3;
rail. Stat., p. 336), heautifuUy situated in a hollow snrronnded by
hills , the slopes of which afford good views of the picturesquely
spired town and the valley. Pop. (1905) 6152.
The railway-station lies to the W. of Main Street, shaded by fine
elms, into which we turn to the S. (right). We pass the Post Office
(1.) and the Town Hall (r.), and in a few minutes reach (r.) the
Episcopal Church, built of blue limestone, and the large Berkshire Inn.
Opposite, concealed by a massive stone wall and trees, is *Kellogg
Tbbbace, a magnificent mansion of blue limestone, with red-tUed
roofs, erected by the late Mrs. Hopkins-Searles, in a French Gothic
style, at a cost of $1,500,000 (300. 000^.). It is most elaborately
fitted up (no admission). The * Grounds contain a fine fountain (jet
80 ft. high). — The handsome *CoNGRBGATioNAii Chubch and the
Hopkins Memorial Mansb are on the same side of the street, a little
to the N. of the Post Office. The former contains a magnificent organ
(3954 pipes, 60 speaking stops) and an 'echo' organ, concealed in
the walls and operated by 21/2 M. of electric wire. The parsonage
is said to be the finest in the United States.
William Cullen Bryant (1794-1878), the poet, was for several
years (1815-25) town- clerk of Great Barrington, and many of the
town records are in his handwriting. His house (the old 'General
Dwight Place') stood on the site occupied by the Berkshire Inn, but
has been moved farther back and is now an annex of the hotel.
Dr. Samuel Hopkins, the hero of Mrs. Stowe's 'Minister's Wooing',
lived at Great Barrington for 25 years.
A few hundred vards to the N.W. of the station is the prettv little
Mansfield Pond. The Berkshire Heights (980 ft.), 1 M. to the W. "of the
station, command a fine *View. About V2 M. to the S. is Mt. Peter, a good
point of view. To the E., across the river, rise Mt. Bryanf (1450 ft.) and
East Mt. (1740 ft.). Belchers Cave lies at the N. end of the village.
To the S.E. (5 M.) lies Lake Buel, in the hill on the W. side of
which is the Ice Gulf, where ice is found nearlv all summer. — Long Lake
lies 3 M. to the N.W. — ^Monument Mt. (p. 340) is 41/2 M. to the N.
The direct road from Great Barrington to (8 M.) Stockbridge
(railway, see p. 337) runs on the E. side of the Housatonic, with
Monument Mt. to the left and Bear Mt. to the right (see p. 340).
The Electkic Tramway fkom Gkeat Bareington to Stockbridge
(comp. p 387) starts hourly at the Golf Grounds, to the S. of the town,
and follows a somewhat circuitous route (11 M., in 50 min. ; fare 15 c.).
Hills. STOCKBRIDGE. 46. Route. 339
Stockbridge (830 ft.; Bed Lion Inn, $3; Heaton Hall, $4,
same management, finely situated; boarding-houses), one of the
most typical and charming of New England villages, with its im-
memorial elms and immaculate neatness, 'sleeps along a level plain
just under the rim of the hiUs'. Pop. (1905) 2022.
In Main St. , opposite the road leading to (V2 M.) the railway
station (p. 337), is the tasteful Episcopal Church, adjoining which
is a War Monument. Following Main St. towards the left (W.), we
pass, on the left, the Sedgwick Mansion, the old home of the Sedgwick
family, huilt by Judge Theodore Sedgwick (1746-1813). To the
right, nearly opposite, is the site of the house where Jonathan
Edwards (1703-58) wrote his famous treatise on 'The Freedom of
the Will'. A sun-dial indicates the location of his former study.
Beyond this is the Casino, with tennis-courts, etc. Nearly opposite
(left) is the Congregational Church, in front of which is a Bell Tower,
erected by David Dudley Field to the memory of the Indian Mission
and his deceased grandchildren. Also to the left is the entrance to
the Stockbridge Golf Links (18 holes). The most interesting part of
the Cemetery (right) is the enclosure of the Sedgwick family, with
the grave of the authoress Catharine M. Sedgwick (1789-1867). The
Edwards Monument, also to the right in Main St., was erected in
1871 by the descendants of Jonathan Edwards. To the left is the
beautiful Dwight Place, beyond which, on the same side, is the
Old Burial Ground of the Stockbridge Indians, with a monument
(*View). The road diverging to the right at the Edwards Monument
leads to a Park, given to the town by Cyrus W. Field (view).
In the part of Main Street to the E. of the Episcopal church is the
Jackson Library (10,000 vols.; open to strangers), containing the
table on which Jonathan Edwards wrote his 'Freedom of the Will'.
A little farther on is the Academy, with Laurel Hill behind it.
To Ice Glen, i-/* M. A pretty little concrete arch, thrown across
the Hovsatonic, connects Laurel Hill (see above) with the slope of Bear
Mt. From this bridge a broad path leads across the railroad track to the
entrance of Ice Glen. It is crossed after 10 min. by a path to the left,
which is to he avoided. 'Ice or Icy Grlen, a cleft in Bear Mt., is a
wild, cold, and narrow rocky ravine, in the caverns of which ice may
be found in midsummer and which forms a startling contrast to the
surrounding scenery. At (15-20 min.) the upper end of the glen we pass
through a gate into a pasture, across which we descend by a faint path
to (5 min.) the road (gate here marked 'Path to Ice Glen'). Following the
road to the right, we regain the station in V4 hr.
From Stockbridge to Monument Mt. (there and back 9-10 M., or
3-4 hrs.). From the Red Lion we descend Main St. to the left. The route
bends to the left, passes the Indian Burial Ground (see above), and C^h M.)
crosses the Housat mic. We then turn to the left and in a few hundred
paces cross the railway. Avoiding the road to the right here, we continue
in a straight direction to (3/4 M.) the cross-road^, where we keep to the
left. The road soon dwindles to a lane and begins to ascend. 'A M.
Smith's Farm, 325 ft. above Stockbridge (view). Here we should ask the
way across the pasture, which ascends to the left to (8 min.) a gate leading
into the wood. The route through the forest is by an old and winding
cart-track, now seldom used for driving. In 20 min. it is joined by another
340 Route 46. LENOX. Berkshire
track from the right, A few yards beyond this, to the left, is a small
patch of grass, with a slab of rock. A steep footpath ascends hence over
rocks to (5-10 min.) the chaotic, rocky top of ^Monument Mt. (1710 ft.),
which commands a magnificent *View of the Housatonic Valley and the
Berkshire Hills. The rock- formations (white quartz) are very fine, espe-
cially one huge detached pinnacle known as the 'Pulpit'. Ladies or others
who object to scrambling should now return to the cart-track and either
retrace their steps or follow it to the left to (25 min.) the Great Barrington
road. A little time is saved, however, by descending the indistinct path
on the other side of the summit, which merges (}/i hr.) in a grassy wheel-
track, that joins (3 min.) the above-mentioned cart-track about 10 min.
from the Great Barrington road. Here we turn to the left for (3V4 M.)
Stockbridge, a dusty highroad walk which we may avoid by having a
carriage to meet us,
Fkom Stockbridge to Lenox via Lake Mahkeenao and Bald Head,
8-9 M. We follow the road leaving Main St. at the Episcopal church and
take the first road to the left. The road ascends Prospect Hill (*View of
Stockbridge), passing Heaton Hall (p. 339), and for a mile or two- is lined
with handsome 'places'. To the right is Rattlesnake Hill. After about 3 M.
we see the *Stockbridge Bowl or Lake Mahkeenao (ca. 920 ft.) below us
to the left. At the (1 M.) fork near the N. end of the lake we follow the
left branch ('to Lenox and Pittsfield'). At (3/4 M.) the next fork we again
keep to the left, passing (on the lake, to the left) the scanty remains of
the house in which Nathaniel Hawthorne lived in 1849-51, and wrote the
'House of the Seven Gables' and other works. 5/4 M. Opposite the pretty
home of Mr. Higginson, we take the central of three roads (driving to
this point advisable in hot or dusty weather), and immediately afterwards
follow the road to the left between two private roads. A very little
farther on we ascend to the right by a steep lane. In 20-30 min. we see
the bare grassy top of Bald Head or Mt. Prospect (1583 ft.) to the right,
which we reach by crossing the fence and grass to (5 min.) the cairn.
*View to N. and S., including Lenox, the Stockbridge Bowl, and Mon-
ument Mt. We may now return to the lane and follow it round a wooded
hill and down to (2^/2 M.) Lenox. Or we may descend the cart-track in
the hollow between Bald Head and the wooded summit to the N., which
leads toward Lenox but soon dwindles to a trail and finally disappears
(this route not advisable for ladies or elderly people). At (10-15 min.)
the foot of the hill we emerge from the wood on a field, where we climb
the fence and continue in the general direction of (l^/z M.) Lenox, which
is seen in front. There are so many private roads here, that it is im-
possible to give precise directions, but it is scarcely possible to go far
wrong. Lenox^ see below.
From Stockbridge to Lenox Station by Electric Tramway (comp.
p. 337), 10 M., in 37 min. (starting hourly; fare 20 c). From the station
a branch-line runs to (2 M.) the village. The chief intermediate station
is (1/2 M.) East Lee (865 ft.; 'Oreenock Inn, $ 4; Morgan ffo., $ 2), a village
with paper-mills and quarries of marble (used for the Capitol at Wash-
ington, etc.). Pop. (19U5) 3972. A fine drive may be taken through the
Hopbrook Valley to FernHde (1160 ft. ; now owned by a club), Tyringham^ and
Monterey (12 M.). — Lenox., see below.
Excursions are also made from Stockbridge to Mohawk Lake, 23/4 M.
to the W.; Lake Averic, 3 M. to the N.W.; Eldon's Cave, in Tom Ball ML,
31/2 M. to the W.; over the old Burgoyne Road (Bear Mt.; views); Great
Barrington (8 M.); West Stockbridge (5 M.), etc.
Lenox (1270 ft, ; Aspinwall, with splendid view ; Curtis Hotel,
$3-5, open all the year ronnd ; numerous hoarding-honses), beauti-
fully situated on a ridge, 21/2 M. to the W, of the railway-station
(p. 337) and 6 M, to the N. of Stockbridge, is the Newport of the
Berkshires and makes an even greater impression of wealth and
luxnry than the real Newport. Pop. (1905) 3058, The main street,
Hills. PITTSFIELD. 46. Route. 341
shaded with elms, contains the hotels, a Club, and a Pullic Library,
while the slopes and crests of the surrounding hills are covered
with large and often beautiful country-houses. Driving, riding,
golf, and lawn tennis are the favourite amusements ; horse races
are held in the Lee Pleasure Park, and the annual 'Tub Parade' (of
carriages) is a regular institution. Fanny Kenible (1811-93) and
Henry Ward Beecher (p. 336) are among the most famous of for-
mer Lenox residents. In front of the Curtis Hotel is a statue of
General John Paterson (1744-1808).
The beat way to see Lenox is to hire a carriage, and spend 2-3 hrs.
in driving about the network of excellent private roads (open to light
vehicles only) of which the place consists. The William Sloane and Lanier
Places adjoin each other and command a superb *View. Perhaps the finest
grounds are those of the Rathbone Place, now owned by Mr. John Sloane.
The Westinghouse Place has drives and walks of powdered marble. The
Stokes Hovte is built round a tree. The Foster Mansion, by Thos. Hastings
of New York, is an imposing Renaissance structure of white marble and
red brick. The Perch, the home of Fanny Kemble (see above), still stands
opposite the Foster Mansion.
The Drives and Walks round Lenox are very attractive. Among
the favourite excursions are those to the top of Bald Head (2V2 M. ; p. 340);
the Siockbridge Bowl (2V2 M. ; p. 340) and Stockbridge (6 M. ; p. 389); Laurel
Lake (Laurel Lake Inn. $ 2) and the Highlatm Farm, a famous horse-breed-
ing establishment, 23/4 M. to the S.E.; North Lenox Mt. and Yokun''s Seat
(2080 ft.; named after a chief of the Lenox Indians), 4-4V2 M. to theN.W.;
Pittsfield (6 M. ; see below); the settlement of the Lebanon Shakers (p. 342)
and Perry Peak (2060 ft. ; view), 9 M. to the N.W. ; October Mt., 4 M. to the
N.E. Richmond, 41/2 M. to the W., is celebrated for its parallel trains of
boulders, described by Sir Chas^ Lyell. Short walks may be taken to
(3/4 M.) the Ledge, the (1 M.) Pinnacle, the Lilp Pond (IV2 M.), the Schermer-
hom Woods, etc.
Electeic Tramway fbom Lenox Station to Pittsfield (comp. p. 337),
7 M. (in 25 mm.), starting every 1/2 hr. (fare 15 c).
Pittsfield (1010 ft. ; '>' Maplewood, North St., $3-5; *Th€ Wen-
dell, from $3, R. from $1V2; American Ho., open all the year,
$2-3; Beach Grove, from $2; Bail. Bestaurani), the chief city of
Berkshire County, with (1905) 25,000 inhab., is finely situated on
a plateau surrounded by hills. It was named in 1761 in honour of
the elder Pitt. It is an excellent centre for automobiling and is one
of the American headquarters of ballooning.
The public green in the centre of the city, named the 'Heart of
Berkshire', bears the original statue of the Massachusetts Colour
Bearer, by Launt Thompson, which has been reproduced at Gettys-
burg (p. 196). Among the buildings round or near the green are
two Churches, the white marble Court House, and the Berkshire
Athenaeum (with the Berkshire Historical Society and a public
library of 50,000 vols.). The Bishop Training School for Nurses
the House of Mercy, the Old Ladies' Home Museum of Natural
History and Art, and the small R. C. Cathedral of St. Joseph may also
be mentioned. Among the many interesting and attractive private
residences are the Appleton or Plunkett House, in East St., where
Longfellow wrote 'The Old Clock on the Stairs' (clock still in the
house), and the quaint old Kellogg Place, also in East St. The
342 Route 46. NORTH ADAMS. Berkshire
Cemetery contains fine old trees and a large red granite obelisk. —
The Stanley Electric Works employ 3-4000 hands.
Oliver Wendell Holmes lived for some time at a small villa, 2 M. to
the S., on the road to Lenox, and Pittsfield claims to be the scene of
'Elsie Venner'. Herman Melville lived at Arrowhead, also on the road to
Lenox 5 and in the early days of the 19th cent. Elkanah Watson, the friend
of Washington and Lafayette, occupied what is now the Country Cluh^
surronnded hy extensive and beantitnl grounds. The Rev. Dr. John Todd
(1800-1874), author of the well-known 'Lectures to Children', was long pastor
of the Congregational Church. Electric cars traverse the principal streets.
About 2 M. to the W. of Pittsfield lies Lake Onoia, passing the S. end
of which, by the 'Interstate Eoad' across the laconic ifis., we reach (7 M.)
Lebanon Springs (Columbia Hall, $ 3-4; Taconic Inn, $ 3), with waters useful
in cutaneous and liver complaints. The Shaker village of Lebanon is 2 M.
to the S. of the Springs (interesting Sunday services; meal at inn 75c.,
advisable to telephone from Pittsfield). — Pontoosuc Lake (small steamers;
boating), reached by electric car, lies 2^/4 M. to the N". of Pittsfield, on
the road to Williamstown (p. 343). Lanesboro, 21/2 M. farther on, was the
birthplace of 'Josh Billings'" (H. W. Shaw; 1818-85: monument in grave-
yard). — On the slopes of the Taconic Mta., to the N.W. of Lake Onota,
are the Lulu Cascade (4 M.) and Berry Pond (5 M). — Among the 'Opes',
or view-commanding vales, in this neighbourhood, is the ''Ope of Promise'',
affording a view of the ''Promised Land\ — The Balance Rock is 2 M. to
the N. of Lake Onota and 2 M. to the W. of Pontoosuc Lake. — South Mt.
(1360 ft.), 2M. to the S., commands a view of Pittsfield, Lake Onota, Grey-
lock, etc. — Other favourite points for excursions are Potter Mt. (2400 ft.),
8 M. to the N.W.; the Wizard's Glen, 4 M. to the N.E.; the Wahconah
Falls, 8 M. to the N.E.; Lake Ashley (1920 ft.), 6 M. to the S.E. ; Perrj
Peak (p. Bil; 8 M.), etc. — A little to the N.E. of the city is the fine
Allen Stock Farm (trotting-horses). — Greylock (p. 843) may be ascended by
taking the electric tramway past Pontoosuc Lake and Lanesboro (see
above) to (7 M. farther) New Ashford and then diverging to the right by
a mountain -road passing round the back of the Sugar Loaf (2040 ft.;
comp. Map).
Most of the roads are well provided with finger-posts.
The N. part of Berkshire Comity is mnch less known than the
S., and there is no important centre for visitors between Pittsfield
and North Adams and Williamstown, 20 M. to the N.
The Electeic Tramway feom Pittsfield to INobth Adams (21 M., in
IV2-IV4 br. ; fare 30 c.) runs via Berkshire (alternative route via Lanesboro,
see above), Berkshire Park (an amusement resort), Cheshire, Cheshire Harbor,
and Adams (see p. 334).
North Adams (700 ft.; Richmond, from $21/2, R- from $1;
Wellington, R. from $ 1 ; Wilson, from $ 21/2; Berkshire, from $ 2, R.
from 75 c), a manufacturing city in the narrow valley of the Hoosic,
with (1905) 22,150 inhab., is a station on the Fitchburg Railroad
(see p. 335) and the terminus of a branch of the Boston & Albany
R.R.' (see p. 334).
About 1 M. to the N.E. of North Adams is the Natural Bridge, a
narrow rocky archway spanning the Hudson Brook at a height of 50-60 ft.
— The W. end of the Hoosac Tunnel (p. 335) is 2 M. to the S.E, of N.
Adams , and a favourite excursion is over the Hoosac Mt. (2270 ft.) to (9 M.)
the E. end of the tunnel and Hoosac Tunnel Station (Rice's Hotel, $ 2).
Ascent of Gretlock (8 M.; road), the highest mountain in Massachusetts,
now kept as a State Reservation. We follow the Williamstown road
(to the W.) for a short distance and then turn to the left into the road
through the Notch (views), passing (I1/2 M.) the Notch Brook Cascade, 30 ft.
high. About M. from N. Adams the road constructed by the Oreyloek
HilU. WILLIAMSTOWN. 46. Route. 343
Park Association diverges to the right and leads through wood to (5 MO
the summit (easy gradient). About halfway up we have a view into the
Hopper (1000 ft. deep). At the top are a view-tower (40 ft. high) and a
small inn (telephone). The *View from Greylock (3505 ft.) includes Adams,
N. Adams, PittsHeld, the valleys of the Hoosic and Housatonic, and most
of the Berkshire Hills. Farther off are the Catskills to the S.W., the
Green Mts. to the N., Mts. Monadnock and Waehusett to the E., and Mts.
Tom and Holyoke to the S.E. — Greylock may also be ascended by a some-
what trying trail through the Hopper (p. 342). — The descent may be
made on the S.E. side to Cheshire Harbor (p. 334) or on the S.W. to the
road leading to Lanesboro (p. 342) and (15 M.) Pittsfield (p. 341).
The Elkctbic Teamway from Noeth Adams to Williamstown (6 M.,
in Vz hr. 5 fare 10 c.) runs via (5 M.) Williamstown Junction.
Williamstown (595 ft. ; * Greylock., $ 3-4, open in snmmer only;
Cosmo Ho., $ 2), 5 M. to the W. of N. Adams and 1 M. to the S.
of the rail, station (p. 335; omn. 25 c. ; electric tramway), lies on the
Green River, an afflnent of the Hoosic. Pop. (1905) 4425. It is the
seat of Williams College (475 students; comp. p. 127), the bnildings
of which are the chief feature of the village. Among the most modern
are the Mark Hopkins Memorial Hall, Berkshire Hall, Clark Hall
(rebuilt in 1908), and the handsome Thompson Memorial Chapel
(memorial window to President Garfield, a graduate of the college).
The President's House and two of the Fraternity Houses (Delta Kappa
Epsilon and Alpha Delta Phi) are good specimens of Colonial ar-
chitecture. The old Van Rensselaer Mansion of Albany (comp.
p. 92) has been re-erected here as the chapter-house of the Sigma
Phi Fraternity. The streets are prettily laid out, without feqces,
and are shaded by fine trees.
In Flora'' t Olen,. 1 M. to the "W., Bryant is often, but erroneously, said
to have composed his 'Thanatopsis', at the age of eighteen. — The *Hop-
per (see above), a huge gorge enclosed by two spurs of Mt. Greylock, is
5 M. to the S. (best seen from Stony Ledge, to the W. of the path mentioned
above). — The top of Greylock is 10 M. distant by the Greylock Park Road
(see above). — The laconic Range rises about 3 M. from Williamstown,
and good views are afforded by Mi. Belcher, Mt. Hopkins (Berlin Mt. ; 2804 ft.),
and other summits. The chief passes over this range are the Petersburg
Pass (2075 ft.), the Berlin Pass (2190 ft.), the Eidder Pass (bridle-path), and
the Johnson Pass. — The Snow Olen is T M. to the N.W., 2 M. to the N. of
the Petersburg Pass. — Among the favourite drives are the ''Short Oblong''
(2 M.) and the 'Long Oblong' (10 M.).
From Williamstown Junction (see above) the Berkshire Street Rail-
way (p. 337) runs on to (14 M.j Bennington (48 min. ; p. 129 •, a beautiful
ride) and (17 M.) Hoosick Falls (iVz hr. more; p. 335), but both of these
are beyond the limit of the present route.
47. From New York to Montreal via
Connecticut Valley.
Comp. Map, p. 232, and R. 11.
450 M. New York, New Haven, & Haetfoed Raileoad to (136 M.)
Springfield in 3^/2-i^/2 hrs.; Connecticut <fe Passtjmpsic Division of the
Boston & Maine R. R. thence to (50 M.) South Vernon in 1V4-2 hrs.; Cen-
tbal Vermont R. R. thence to (iOM.) Br attleboro in Va hr.; Connecticut Rivee
344 Route 47. NORTHAMPTON. From New York
Division of the B. & M. R. R . thence to (64 M.) White River Junction in 13/4 br. 5
Centkal Vekmont R. R. thence to (163 M.) St. John's in 5-6 hrs. ; Grand
Tkunk Railwat thence to (27 M.) Montreal in ^ji-l hr. (through-fare $ 10.65;
sleeper from Springfield $2; express from New York to Montreal in
I3V4-I5V2 hrs.). — Trains run to Quebec by this route (diverging at White
River Junction) in 19-20 hrs. (fare $12). Through-trains run to Fahyans
in the White Mts. (R. 43) in 11 hrs. (fare $7; parlor-car $2).
From New Tork to (136 M.) Springfield, see R. 30a. We here join
the Connecticut ^' Passumpsic Division of the B. ^ M. R. R., which
ascends the beautiful *Valley of the Connecticut, chiefly on theW.
bank of the river (views mainly to the right; comp. 'The Connecticut
River', by ^. M.Bacon, 1906). 140 M. C/iicopce (Columbian, Ken-
dall, $ 2), an industrial town of (1900) 19,167 inhab.; with cotton-
mills, a bronze - foundry , etc. Chicopee Falls , 2 M. to the E., also
with cotton - mills , was the home of Edward Bellamy (d. 1898),
author of 'Looking Backward' and 'Equality'. Tobacco is grown in
this part of the valley. — The train crosses the Chicopee River on
leaving Chicopee, and the Connecticut on entering (144 M.) Holyoke
(95 ft. ; La France, R. from $ 1), an industrial city with (1905)
49,934 inhab., possessing the greatest water-power in New England
and said to be the chief paper-making place in the world (800 tons
daily; value of manufactures in 1905, $30,731,332). The river
has a fall of 60 ft. and is bridled by a huge dam, 1000 ft. across
(30, 000 horse-power). Canoeing is a favourite pastime here. From
Holyoke a mountain-railway ascends to the top of Mt. Tom (1215 ft.;
*View; see also p. 345). — Beyond (149 M.) Smithes Ferry we pass
between Mt. Holyoke (see below) on the right and Mt. Tom (see
above) on the left. From (151 M.) Mt. Tom a branch-line runs to
(4M.) Easthampton, a manufacturing town and the seat of Williston
Seminary, a leading school in preparing boys for college. — We
now pass the famous 'Ox Bow' of the Connecticut, which lies to the
left and is no longer the main channel of the river.
153 M. Northampton (125 ft.; Draper, $21/2-4; Plymouth Inn,
$21/2-31/2; Hampton House, 21/2-3), 'the frontispiece of the book
of beauty which Nature opens wide in the valley of the Connecticut',
is a lovely elm-shaded city of (1905) 19,957 inhab., on the W. bank
of the Connecticut. It is widely known as an educational centre.
The chief of its educational institutions is Smith College, one
of the leading colleges for women (1500 students). It possesses an
art-gallery, a handsome library building, a music-hall, a gymna-
sium, a club-house for the students, etc. Other large buildings are
Memorial Hall (with the Public Library), the State Hospital for
the Insane (1 M. to the S.W.), the High School (1895), and the
Clarke Institution for the Deaf. The last stands on Round Hill,
which commands a good view of the town.
The chief of the numerous delightful excursions from Northampton
is that to the top of 'Mt. Holyoke (955 ft. ; Prospect Eo., at the top, $ 21/2-3),
2 M. to the S.E, A carriage-road leads to a smaU mountain-railway which
surmounts the last 600 ft. (return-fare $ 1 ; toll for walkers 50c.). The exqui-
to Montreal. BRATTLEBORO. 47. Route. 345
site 'View from the summit includes the Connecticut Valley, the Hoosac
Mts. and Greylock (W. and N.W.), Mt. Tom (S.W.), Springfield and the
E. and W. Rocks at New Haven (S.; on an exceptionally clear day) Mt.
Wachusett (E.), Amherst (p. 243) and Monadnock (N.E.), and the Green'Mts!
(N.). — Mt. Nonottick (850 ft.), the N. peak of Mt. Tom (p. 34 1), is easilv
reached via Mt. Tom station (p. 344; *View). — Hadley {Elmwood Ho'.,
$ 2), a beautiful New England village, 21/2 M. to the N.E. of Northampton,
IS celebrated for its magnificent -Avenue of elms (275 ft. wide). The regicide
Whalley lived in concealment at Hadley for 15 years (1664-79). At South
Hadley, 6 M. to the S., and connected with Holyoke bv electric tramway,
is the Mt. Holyoke College for Girls (730 pupils). — Amherst (p. 243) is 7 M.
to the N.E. of Northampton. Both Hadley and Amherst are connected with
Northampton by the Mass. Central R. R. (B. & M. system).
Beyond Northampton the train passes near the Great Bend of
the Connecticut and th.jn leaves the river. Hadley (see above) is seen
to the right. 157 M. Hatfield (150 ft.). From (164 M.) South Deer-
field (205 ft.) we may ascend Sugar Loaf Mt. (710 ft), which rises
to the right. Mt, Toby (p. 335) is on the opposite side of the river.
A little farther on , to the right, is a monument marking the battle-
field of Bloody Brook^ where Capt. Lathrop and 80 young men, 'the
flower of Essex Co.', were killed by Indians in 1675. — 169 M. Deer-
field (220 ft.), a pretty village at the foot of Deerfield ML (700 ft.),
with (1900) 1969 inhabitants. The building of the Pocumtuck Val-
ley Memorial Association contains a collection of relics. — We cross
the Deerfield and at (172 M.) Greenfield (p. 335) intersect the Fitch-
burg line. Beyond (179 M.) Bernardston the Connecticut again
comes into sight on the right, and this part of the valley is very
picturesque. Tobacco and maize are cultivated. 186 M. SouthVernon
is the junction of lines to Nashua (p. 313) and New London (p. 242).
196 M. Brattleboro [Brook.". Ho., $21/2-4; Brattleboro Hotel, ^l),
a large village with (1900) 6640 inhab., charmingly situated on the
W. bank of the Connecticut, is the centre of the maple-sugar in-
dustry of Vermont. It was the birthplace of Wm. M. Hunt (1824-79),
the painter, and Richard M. Hunt (1828-95), the architect. The Public
Library contains some natural history collections. The Estey Organ
Works here turn out 20,000 organs yearly. In the Cemetery (view)
is an elaborate monument to the notorious Jim Fisk (1835-72). A
road ascends to the top of Wantastiquet Mt. (1364 ft. ; view), on the
opposite side of the river. Mr. Rudyard Kipling's American home
lay 3 M. to the N. of Brattleboro. — 220 M. Bellows Falls, see
p. 310. — We now cross to the E. bank of the river and leave
Vermont for New Hampshire. Beyond (238 M.) Claremont Junction
(line to Concord, see p. 314) we cross the deep gorge of the Sugar
River by a bridge 105 ft. high. We recross the Connecticut River to •
(246 M.) Windsor (Windsor Ho., $ 2), the station for *Mt. Ascutney
(3320 ft.; Rfmt. Ho., at the top; *VieW).
260 M. White River Junction (Rail. Restaurant), see p. 314.
Trains for Quebec and for Montreal via Sherbrooke part company from
our roure here and continue to follow the Connecticut Valley to Wells
yiwer (p. 3i7). The second station on this route is (5 M.) Norwich, whence
ommhuses run to Hanover (Hanover Inn, $ 21/2-4), 3/^ m. to the S.E., the seat
346 Routed?. HANOVER.
of Dartmouth College (12T0 students), tlie alma mater of Daniel Webster,
George Ticknor, G. P. Marsh (p. 314), Thaddeus Stevens, Rufus Choate,
and Chief- Justice Chase. Dartmouth Sail, a fine old Colonial huilding,
was burned down in 1904 but at once rebuilt. The College Park is pretty,
and its Art Gallery contaics some interesting portraits. Webster Hall is
an attractive Colonial auditorium, opened in 1907. On the E. bank of the
river is a tablet to John Ledvard (1751-89), the traveller, who studied at
Dartmouth College.
The train then crosses tue Ompompanoosuc. passes (36 M.) Newbury, a
pretty village in the Ox Bow 'intervales' of the Connecticut, and goes on
to (40 M.) Wells River, where it joins E. 42 c.
For a description of our present route to (450 M.) Montreal (tlie
sboTtest^from this point^, see'pp. 314-316.
III. THE MIDDLE WEST.
Route Page
48. From Pittsburg to Chicago 349
a. Via Crestline and Fort Wayne 349
h. Via Columbus and Logansport 349
49. From Baltimore to Chicago 350
Frederick 350. — Wheeling 352.
50. From Buffalo to Chicago 353
a. Via Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Railroad . 353
From Toledo to Detroit; to Frankfort 356.
b. Via New York, Chicago, and St. Lonis Railroad . 357
e. Via Michigan Central Railroad 358
From Detroit to Lansing and Grand Rapids 361. From
Detroit to Port Huron; to Makinaw City; to Cincinnati;
and to Columbus. Mackinac Island 362.
d. Via Grand Trunk Railway 363
e. By Steamer 364
51. Chicago . ! 366
Pullman. Excursions from Chicago 380.
52. From Chicago to Milwaukee 380
a. Via Chicago & North- Western Railway 380
b. Via Chicago, MUwaukee, & St. Paul Railway . . 381
Waukesha 383.
53. From Chicago to St. Paul and Minneapolis 384
a. Via Chicago, Milwaukee, & St. Paul Railway . . 384
From Winona to Rochester 384.
b. Via Chicago & North-Western Railway 384
c. Via Illinois Central Railroad (Albert Lea Roate) . 385
d. Via Chicago, Burlington, & Quincy Railroad ... 386
e. Via Wisconsin Central Railway 386
f. Via Chicago Great Western Railway 387
g. Via Chicago, Rock Island, and Pacific Railway. . 387
54. St. Paul and Minneapolis 388
Minnehaha Falls 393. Lake Minnetonka. From Min-
neapolis and St. Paul to Sault-Ste-Marie 393.
55. From St. Paul to Duluth 393
From Duluth to Tower and Ely ; to Mountain Iron and
Hibbing. Messabi and Vermilion Ranges 394.
56. From Duluth to Sault-Ste-Marie 395
a. By Railway 395. — b. By Steamer 396.
57. From St. Paul to Winnipeg 398
a. Via Breekenridge 398
Sioux Falls and Sioux City 398.
b. Via Fergus Falls 398
c. Via Crookston and Pembina 399
Baedeker's United States. 4th Edit. 22
348 THE MIDDLE WEST.
Route Page
58. From Chicago to St. Louis 399
a. Via Illinois Central Railroad 399
b. Via Chicago & Alton Railway 400
From Dwight to Peoria 400.
c. Via Wabash Railroad 400
59. From Chicago to Cincinnati 401
a. Via Lafayette and Indianapolis 401
b. Via Logansport 402. — c. Vilt the Monon Route 403.
60. From New York to Cincinnati 403
a. Via Pennsylvania Railroad 403
b. Via Chesapeake & Ohio Railway 403
c. Via Cleveland 404
d. Via Baltimore & Ohio Railroad 404
e. Via Erie Railroad 405
61. Cincinnati 405
Covington. Newport. Serpent Mound 408.
62. From New York to St. Lonis 408
a. Via Cleveland and Indianapolis 408
b. Via Philadelphia and Pittsburg 409
c. Via Buffalo and Toledo .409
d. Via Washington and Cincinnati 410
63. St. Louis 410
64. From St. Louis to Louisville 416
Evansville. Wyandotte Cave 417.
65. From Chicago to Council Bluffs and Omaha .... 417
a. Via Chicago, Milwaukee, & St. Paul Railway . . 417
b. Via Chicago & North-Western Railway 419
c. Via Chicago, Rock Island, & Pacific Railway . . 419
d. Via Chicago, Burlington, & Quincy Railroad. . . 421
e. Via Illinois Central Railroad 421
66. From Omaha to Denver 422
a. Via Chicago, Burlington, & Quincy Railroad . . . 422
From Lincoln to Billings 422. '
b. Via Chicago, Rock Island, & Pacific Railway . . 422
c. Via Union Pacific Railroad 423
67. From Chicago to Kansas City 423
a. Via Atchison, Topeka, & Santa Fe Railway . . . 423
From Kansas City to Fort Worth, Dallas, San Antonio,
Houston, and Galveston 424.
b. Via Chicago and Alton Railroad 424
c. Via Wabash Railroad 425
d. Via Chicago, Rock Island, & Pacific Railway . . 425
e. Via Chicago Great Western Railway 425
f. Via Burlington Route 426
g. Via Chicago, Milwaukee, «fe St. Paul Railway . . 426
68. From St. Louis to Kansas City and Denver 426
69. From St. Paul to New Orleans by the Mississippi River 427
349
48. From Pittsburg to Chicago.
a. Via, Crestline and Fort Wayne.
468 M. Pennstlvania Co 'b Lines in 12-133/4 hrs. (fare $ 12 j sleeper $ 21/2).
— From New York to Chicago by thia route, see R. 29 a.
Piitiburg^ see R. 24. The train crosses the Allegheny River
(p. 197), rnns through Allegheny City (p. 200), and follows the right
bank of the Ohio for some distance. 25 M. Rochester (710 ft.), at
the confluence of the Ohio and the Beaver River, which we now fol-
low towards the N. (right). 30 M. Beaver Falls. Farther on we turn
again to the W. (left) and beyond (45 M.) Enon (995 ft.) we enter
Ohio (see p. 353). — 83 M. Alliance (1100 ft.) is the junction of a
branch-line to Cleveland (see p. 201). — 101 M. Canton (Court-
land, $21/2-5, R. from $ 1 ; Eot.McKinley, $ 21/2-4), a city of 30,667
inhab., in a fine wheat-growing district, was the home of President
McKinley (d. 1901), to whom an elaborate monument has been
erected (enshrining the bodies of himself and his wife). — 175 M.
Mansfield (17,640 inhab.; p. 232). — 189 M. Crestline (ill 0 ft.) is
the junction of lines to Toledo, Cleveland, Cincinnati, Indianapolis,
etc. — 201 M. Bucyrus (6560 inhab.). Beyond (288 M.) Van Wert
we enter Indiana (p. 357).
320 M. Fort Wayne, an important railway- centre (comp. pp. 357,
409). From this point the route is substantially the same as that de-
scribed at p. 358. — 360 M-.Warsaw, on the Tippecanoe River; 384 M.
Plymouth; 415 M. Wanatah; 424 M. Valparaiso (p. 358). We now
approach Lake Michigan (right). Yarious suburban stations.
468 M. Chicago (Canal St. Station), see R. 51.
b. Vik Columbns and Logansport.
507 M. PiTTSBUEG, Cincinnati, Chicago, & St. Louis Railwax (Penn-
sylvania Co.'s 'Pan Handle Line') in 16-19 hrs. (fares as above).
Pittsburg, see R. 24. This line runs at first almost due W.,
crossing the narrow arm of West Virginia (p. 189), interposed
between Pennsylvania and Ohio. Beyond (42 M.) Wheeling Junction
we cross the Ohio River and enter Ohio (p. 353). 43 M. Steuben-
ville (730 ft. ; Imperial, $ 2-21/2), a city of 14,350 inhab., on the W.
bank of the Ohio; 92 M. Dennison; 124 M. Coshocton; 138 M. Trin-
way, the junction of a line to Cincinnati; 160 M. Newark (p. 352).
193 M. Columbus. — Chittendes Hotel, from $3; Haktman, E.
from $ IV2; Gband Southebn, $ 2^/2-5, R. from $1 5 Neil Ho., R. from $ 1 ;
Park Hotel, from $ 2, R. from $ 1. — Tramways traverse the principal
streets. — Post Office, Capitol Sq., cor. of State St. and Third St.
Columbus (745 ft.) , the capital of Ohio , is a thriving city of
(1900) 125,560 inhab., situated on the E. bank of the Scioto River.
Its commerce is important, and it has manufactures of iron and
steel goods, carriages, and agricultural implements (value in 1900,
$ 40,000,000). Its streets are broad, well lighted by large electric
arches, and much better paved than is usual in American cities.
22*
350 Route 48. LOGANSPORT.
Broad Street, in particular, affords a delightful drive of 7 M. — The
State Capitol is a large and somewhat odd-looking bnilding, snrronn-
ded by a small park full of tame grey squirrels. Other important
buildings are the Ohio State University (2275 students), the Central
Ohio Lunatic Asylum, the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, the State Peni-
tentiary, the 17. 8. Barracks (in a pretty park), the Court House^ the
Starling Medical College, the Idiot Asylum, the Blind Asylum., and
the Board of Trade. Ooodale Park lies at the N. end of the city.
From Columbus to Cincinnati, see p. 403. Railways also run hence to
Toledo, Cleveland, Indianapolis, etc.
Numerous unimportant stations. — 240 M. TJrhana (1030 ft.;
6808 inhab.), a railway-centre, with the Curry Normal & Industrial
Institute (the 'Tuskegee of the North' ; comp. p. 572); 266 M. Piqua
(12,172 inhab.). At (276 M.) BradfordJunction the railway forks, the
left branch leading to Indianapolis (p. 401) and St. Louis (p. 410),
while the Chicago line keeps to the right. At (297 M.) Union City
we enter Indiana (p. 3f)7). 350 M. Marion (11,862 inhab.) ; 386 M.
Ano/cajMnciion (p. 402). — 390 M. Logansport (605 ft. ; Barnett,
$ 21/2-3 ; Johnston, $ 2), a city of 16,204 inhab., at the confluence of the
Wabash River, Eel River, and Wabash ^ Erie Canal , is an intersect-
ing point of several railways (comp. p. 402). — 415 M. Winamac:
466 M. Crown Point. — In entering Chicago the railway crosses the
Drainage Canal (p. 373) by a swing-bridge, 400 ft. long and 112 ft.
wide; it is laid with eight tracks.
507 M. Chicago (Canal St. Station), see R. 51.
49. From Baltimore to Chicago.
860 M. Baltimore & Ohio Railroad in 22-25 hrs. (fare $ 17; sleeper $5).
This line passes some fine scenery. — From New York to Chicago by this
route, see p. 232.
From Baltimore to (40 M.) Washington, see R. 27. A good view
of Washington is enjoyed as we leave it. The line runs towards the
N.W. through Maryland (p. 189). Beyond (76 M.) Dickerson the Po-
tomac comes into sight on the left. — 83 M. Washington Junction.
This is fhe junction of a line to (15 M.) Frederick (9296 inhab), the
scene of Barbara Frietchie's exploit with the flag and Stonewall Jackson
(see Whittier's poem and Mrs. Caroline Dall's book). Francis Scoti Key
(1779-1843), author of 'The Star-spangled Banner' (p. 204), is buried in
Mt Olivet Cemetery, opposite the entrance of which is a handsome mon-
ument, by Alex. Doyle, erected to him in 1898.
At (84 M.) Point of Rocks (230 ft.) we thread a tunnel below a
promontory of the Catoctin Mts., a prolongation of the Blue Ridge.
Farther on the valley .contracts and the hills grow higher. Near
(93 M.) Weverton (250 ft.), the junction of a line to (24 M.) Eagers-
town (p. 189), took place the battle of South Mountain (Sept. 14th,
1862). The scenery here is very picturesque. The train soon crosses
the Potomac and enters West Virginia at —
HARPER'S FERRY. 49. Route. 351
96 M. Harper's Ferry (270 ft.; Conner's, $2; Hill Top Ho.,
Lochwood Ho., on tlie Mil), grandly sitnated on the point of land
formed by tke confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah, with the
Maryland Heights on the one side and tliQVirginian or Loudon Heights
on the other. Pop. 1675, with Bolivar. The name of this little place
is widely celebrated through the famous raid of John Brown (see
below), practically the first scene of the Civil "War. The armoury and
arsenal, destroyed during the Civil War, have not been rebuilt.
John Brown of Oasawatomie, at the head of a party of about 20
armed Abolitionists, entered Harper's Ferry by the bridge on the night of
Oct. 16th, 1859, and took possession of the Arsenal, intending to liberate
the negro-slaves and occupy the Blue Ridge as a base of hostilities against
the slave-owners. The negroes, however, did not rise, and Brown and
most of his companions were killed or captured, after two days' fighting,
by a squad of U. S. Marines that had come to the aid of the Virginia
militia. The small engine house in which John Brown made his last
stand (known as 'John Brown's Forf) has teen removed to a small park
on the Shenandoah, about 4 M. from Harper's Ferry. Its original site is
marked by a small monument. John Brown and six of his associates
were hanged at Charlestown (p. 597^, 10 M. to the S.W.
The visitor should ascend from the station to (5-10 min.) the top of
the promontory (about 300 ft. above the river), which commands a fine
•View of the confluence of the rivers and of the gap made in the Blue
Ridge by their combined waters bursting through it." Just below, on the
Shenandoah side, is a curious pile of rocks known as Jeffersori's Rock. We
may follow the path along the Shenandoah (high above it) and then go
on by road, passing the large Storer College., to (1 M.) the top of the ridge
called Bolivar Heights, which commands a splendid *View of the fertile
Valley of Virginia (Shenandoah Vallep), backed by the Allegheny Mts.,
30 M. away. To the N. lies the battlefield of Antietam (p. 597). — A fine
drive may be taken on the road round the promontory at the foot of the
cliffs. — The ascent of *ffiaryland Heights (1455 ft.; view) takes I'/z hr.
(bridle-path). We cross the Potomac and turn to the left. About 2/3 of
the way up we take the less promising path to the left.
Beyond Har^per's Ferry the line leaves the Potomac for a time.
103 M. Shenandoah Junction is the junction for the railway through
the Shenandoah Valley (see R. 96). 114 M. Martinsburg, the junc-
tion for Harrisburg, seep. 189. Farther on we cross North Mt. (550ft.)
and rejoin the Potomac (right), on the other side of which, at
(128 M.) Cherry Run, are the ruins of Fort Frederick (1755). The
line hugs the winding stream, with the hills rising abruptly on each
side. 143 M. Sir John's Run, so named after Sir John Sinclair,
Gen. Braddock's Quartermaster. Beyond (185 M.) Patterson's Creek
we cross the Potomac and re-enter Maryland. — 192 M. Cumberland
(640 ft. ; Queen City Hotel, with rail, restaurant, $ 2-3), a city with
17,128 inhab., rolling-mills, and glass-works.
Our line here crosses the Western Maryland R. R., which runs E. to
(164 M.) Bal'imore (see p. 20y) and S.W, to Ellins and (159 M ) Durhin. —
Cumberland is also the junction of a line to (150 M.) Pittsburg (p. 197), run-
ning via the picturesque Toughiogheny Valley, Connellsville, and McKeespovt.
Our line turns to the S.W. and continues to follow the Potomac.
The scenery is rugged and picturesque. Near (216 M.) Keyser (800 ft.)
we cross the river into West Virginia, but soon recross it. Near
(221 M.) Piedmont (930 ft.) is Fort Pendleton, constructed in 1861
352 Route 49. WHEELING.
to guard the crossing of the Potomac. We now leave the river and
begin the steep ascent of the Allegheny Mts. 228 M. Frankville(i700(t.y,
233 M. SwantonWater Station (2280ft.) ; 237 M. Altamont (2620ft.),
the highest point of the line. The descent is more gradual, and we
pass at first through a comparatively level district known as the Glades,
on the crest of the Alleghenies and containing the headwaters of the
Youghiogheny. 241 M. *Deer Park Hotel (2i66 ft. -, from $ 31/2), a
summer-resort; 243 M. Mountain Lake Park (Kotel, horn $2)] 246 M.
Oakland (2370 ft.; Oakland, $272-4), another attractive summer-
resort; 256 m. Terra Alta (2550 ft.), We now descend through cut-
tings and tunnels, to the Cheat River Valley, crossing the river at (268 M.)
Rowlesburg (1390 ft. ; *View to the right). We now begin another
steep ascent to the crest of Laurel Hill. 273 M. Anderson (1855 ft.).
Beyond (275 M.) Tunnelton (1820 ft.) we thread the Kingwood Tun-
nel, 3/4 M. long. 281 M. Newburg (1215 ft.). At (294 M.) Orafton
(995 ft.), on the Tygarfs Valley River, we leave the mountains.
Our line (to Wheeling and Chicago) here diverges to the right
from the line to Parkersburg, Cincinnati, and St. Louis (see R. 60 d)
and runs towards the N.W., down the Tygart's River. Beyond (316 M.)
Fairmont (875 ft.),- at the head of navigation on the Monongahela,
we ascend the picturesque ravine of Buffalo Creek, passing through
the head of the pass (1150 ft.) by a tunnel. We then descend along
a branch of Fish Creek, threading several tunnels. At (382 M.)
Moundsville (640 ft.) we approach the Ohio (to the left).
The place takes its name from an Indian Mound, 70 ft. high and 820 ft.
in circumference at the base, in which two sepulchral chambers were found,
containing three skeletons (comp. p. 408).
At (389 M.) Benwood we cross the river and enter Ohio. Beyond
this point we run by Central Time (p. xiv).
Wheeling (645 ft.; Wi7idsor, McClure Ho., $21/2-31/2), on the Ohio, 4 M.
above Benwood, is the largest city in West Virginia (38,878 inhab.) and
has manufactures of nails, iron, pottery, and glassware (value in 1900,
316,750,000). It is an important railway- centre (to Pittsburg, see p. 201).
390 M. Bellaire (655 ft.) lies on the Ohio side of the river, oppo-
site Benwood (see above). — 469 M. Zanesville (710 ft. ; Clarendon,
$21/2-4:; Rogge, $2-31/2). a manufacturing city with 23,538 inhab.,
at the confluence of the Muskingum River and the Licking River, has
a curious Y bridge, with three arms meeting in a central pier. We
cross the Muskingum by a bridge 170 yds. long. — At (494 M.)
Newark (820 ft.; Warden, from $2), with 18,157 inhab. and some
large prehistoric mounds, we cross the Pittsburg, Cincinnati, Chicago,
and St. Louis R. R. (see p. 349). Our line runs N.W. to (556 M.)
Mansfield (p. 349) and (582 M.) Chicago Junction, where it forks,
the left branch leading to Chicago, the right to (29 M.) Sandusky
(p. 356). The stations beyond this point are unimportant. 670 M.
Defiance; 707 M. Auburn Junction; 748 M. Milford Junction, 840 M.
Eock Island Junction; 841 M. South Chicago.
860 M. Chicago (Grand Central Station), see R. 51.
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353
50. From Buffalo to Chicago.
a. ViS. Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Bailroad.
540 M. Railway in 13-18 hrs. (fare $14; sleeper or parlor-car $ 3). This
line skirts the S. shore of Lake Erie. From New York to Chicago by this
route, see R. 29(1.
Buffalo, see p. 136, Several small stations are passed. 32 M.
Silver Creek was the home of Kitty, in 'A Chance Acquaintance',
hy W. D. Howells. At (40 M.) Dunkirk (Gratiot, from $ 2; Erie,
$ 2-21/2) connection is made with the Erie R. R. (comp. p. 231).
Pleasant views of Lake Erie to the right. 49 M. Brocton Junction
(for Chautauqua, etc.), see p. 201. — 58 M. Westfield is the point of
intersection with the 'Old Portage Road', a military route constructed
hy the French explorers in 1753. A branch-line runs hence to
Mayville (p. 201) and (18 M.) Chautauqua (p. 232). At (68 M.)
State Line we pass into Pennsylvania.
88 M. Erie, see p. 187. — 103 M. North Girard (p. 201). Beyond
(108 M.) Springfield we enter Ohio (the 'Buck-eye State', so caUed
from the buckeye-tree, ^sculus flava or glabra^ 129 M. Ashtabula is
the junction of a line to Oil City, Pittsburg, etc. 154 M. Painesville
is also the junction of a line to Pittsburg. 161 M. Mentor was the
home of Pres. Garfield (d. 1881), whose large white house may be
seen beyond the station, to the left. — In approaching Cleveland we
cross Gordon Park (p. 355).
183 M. Cleveland. — Railway Stations. Union Depot (PI. C, 1, 2), at
the foot of W. 9th St. ; Erie Depot (PI. C, 2), near the Viaduct ; Baltimore
& Ohio Depot (PI. C, 2), W. 9th St , cor. of Canal Road; New York^ Chicago,
& St. Louis Railroad (PI. E, 3), Broadway S. E.; Wheeling & Lake Erie Depot
(Wabash System; PL D, 2), Ontario St,
Hotels. *HoLLENDEN (PL a; D, 2), Superior Ave. N, E., cor. of E. 6th St.,
a large house, R. from $ IVz; Colonial, in the Colonial Arcade (PI. D, 2;
p, 355), from $31/2, R. from $2; Euclid (PL b; D, 2), cor. E. 14th St.,
R. from $1, with bath from $11/2; Gillst, E. 9th St , next door to the
Baldwin Hotel, R. from $ IV2; Baldwin (PL c; D, 2), for men only, R. from
$1; FosEST City (PL d; C, 2), Public Square, $2-3.
Restaurants. ^Hollenden, see above; De Klyn^ Euclid Ave., opposite E.
6th St.; Hofbrdu, Prospect Ave., near the Colonial Arcade (p, 355); Weler,
cor, E. 6th St. and Euclid Ave., and Superior Ave. N. E., opposite E.
3rd St,; Finley''s Luncheon Rooms, in several streets.
Electric Tramways traverse the chief streets in all directions and run
to various suburban points (fare within the city 3 c). — Cab from station
to hotel, each pers. 50 c., incl. baggage: per hour, $ iV2; other fares in
proportion; 50 per cent more after 11 p.m. — A Touring Car leaves
Public Square every 2 hrs. from 9 a.m., taking in the chief sights of the
city (fare 25 c).
Places of Amusement. Opera House (PL D, 2), Euclid Ave., cor. E.
4th St., Colonial Theatre (PL 3; D, 1, 2), these two for dramas; Hippo-
drome, Euclid Ave., near E. 9th St. (p. 355; various attractions); Eeith^s,
Prospect Ave., near the Colonial Arcade (first-class vaudeville); Empire
(PL 5; D, 2), Star (PL D, 2), these two for vaudeville and burlesque;
Cleveland (PL 0,2; melodrama); Majestic (PL C, 8).
Post Office, PubUc Square (PL D, 2; p. 354).
354 Route 50. CLEVELAND. From Buffalo
Cleveland (580 ft. above the sea), the largest city of OMo, with
(1900) 381,768 inhab., lies on the S. shore of Lake Erie, at the
month of the small Cuyahoga River, and, with its broad and well-
paved streets, its green lawns and squares, and its numerous trees
('Forest City'), makes a favourable impression on the visitor. Its
Important iron and steelworks, foundries, and machine shops produce
goods to the annual value of $ 86,000,000. It was the original home
of the Standard Oil Co., and it carries on a very extensive trade
both by rail and by means of its excellent harbour, especially in
iron ore and coal. Its factories, among which may also be mentioned
those for the making of wire, gas-stoves, motor-cars, electric lamp
carbons, and paints, are distributed along the various steam-rail-
way lines, many of them being on the lake-front. Cleveland is one
of the chief ship-building cities in the United States.
Cleveland was founded in 1796, but did not begin to grow with any
rapidity until the completion of the Ohio Canal, connecting Lake Erie
with the Ohio (1834). Its population in 1830 was 1000, in i860 it was
43,417, in 1880 it was 160,142, and in 1890 it was 261,353. The value of
its manufactures in 1900 was $ 140,000,000 (28,000,000/. 5 59,000 hands).
The chief business-street is Superiob. Ayenub (PI. B-F, 2, 1), a
really fine and wide thoroughfare, the W. end of which is lined with
substantial business blocks, such as the Ferry-Payne Building (Nos.
103-109). A little farther on the street expands into *Montjmental
Park or the Public SauAEE (PI. C, D, 2) , containing a Soldiers'
Monument and a Statue of Gen. Moses Cleaveland (1764-1806),
founder and godfather of the city. The new Federal Building, at
the N.E. comer of the square, will contain the Post Office, the Custom
House, and the Court House.
This building is the first of the several public buildings comprised in
the so-called 'Group Plan', the others being the City Hall, County Building,
Public Library, and Union Station. A broad mall will connect all these
buildings.
At the N.W. corner is the Old Court House (PI. C, 2), adjoined
by the American Trust Building (14 stories). On the N. side of the
square, at the comer of Ontario St., is the handsome building of the
'^Society for Savings (Pl.ll ; C, 2), established in 1849 and now having
deposits of upwards of 50 million dollars (ten millions steriing).
There are no stock-holders, the net profits going to the 80,000 de-
positors (*View from the top of the building). Adjacent is the
Chamber of Commerce (PI. 1 ; C, D, 2), containing a handsome audit-
orium, with a library and reading-room. In Superior Ave., beyond
the Federal Building, is the massive City Hall (PL D, 2; comp.
above), which is adjoined by the temporary building of the Ihtblic
Library (F\. 8, D 2; 300,000 vols.; comp. above). — A little to the
N. of this point is the huge Central Armoury (PL D, 1 ; 6000 seats).
♦Euclid Avenue (PL D-G,2, 1), which begins at the S.E. angle
of the Public Square, is at its E. end also an important artery of
business and farther out becomes one of the most beautiful residence
streets in America, with each of Its handsome houses surrounded
to Chicago. CLEVELAND. 50. Boute. 355
by pleasant grounds and shady trees. At tbe N.E. corner of the
Square and Enclid Ave. is the i^-story Williamson Building (PI. 13;
D, 2) ; a little farther on, also on the N. side of the Avenue, is the
handsome First National Bank; on the right is the tall, narrow
building of the Guardian Savings ^ Trust Co. To the left is the
*Arcade (PI. D, 2), 400 ft. long, 180 ft. wide, and 144 ft. high, with
a fine flve-balconied interior, running through to Superior Ave. 5 and
to the right is the Colonial Arcade (Pi. D, 2), running through to
Prospect Ave. At the comer of E. 6th St. are the tall 6arfield(^iO stories)
and New England (16 stories) Buildings (PL 6, 7; D, 2). Nearly
opposite the New England Building is the new Tatloe Arcade,
just E. of which is the Hippodrome Building (p. 353). Farther on,
near E. 9th St., is the Citizens^ Building (PI. 2; D, 2), with the offices
of the Citizens Savings & Trust Co. and mural paintings by Kenyon
Cox and E. Blashfleld, and at the comer is the Schofield Building
(PI. 10, D 2; r.). Directly opposite the latter, at the S.E. corner of
E. 9th St. and Euclid Ave., is the Cleveland Trust Co. At the corner
of E. 12th St. is the handsome Union Cluh (PI. 12; D, 2). Farther on
are several fine churches. About 41/2 M. from the Public Square
(street-car), Euclid Ave. reaches University Ceecle, with a *Statue
of Senator M. A. fl^cnno (1837-1904), by Saint -Gaudens, and one
of Kossuth.^ erected by the Hungarians of Cleveland. To the right
is the building of the Western Reserve Historical Society, to the
left is the Elysium, an artificial ice skating rink. Just beyond the
Circle is the entrance to *Wade Park, which contains statues of
Commodore Perry (p. 187) and Harvey Rice, and a Ooethe-Sckiller
Monument. Opposite the Park are the buildings of the Western
Reserve University (including Adelhert College, Woman's College,
Law, Medical, and Dental Schools, and a Library School, in addition to
the graduate department; 900 students) and the Case School of Applied
Science (450 students). About 1 M. farther on, the avenue passes *Lake
View Cemetery, containing the * Garfield Memorial (adm. 10 c; erected
in 1890), the Rockefeller Monolith, the graves of Senator Hanna
(see above) and John Hay (1838-1905), and the Wade Memorial Chapel.
Prospect Avenue (PI. D-&, 2), which runs parallel to Euclid Ave. on the
S., is little inferior to it in beauty. At the corner of E. 9th St. are the
Rose Building (PI. 9; D, 2) and the handsome building of the Young Men's
Christian Association (PI. D, 2; v.). — Another favourite resort is *Grordon
Park, to the N.E. of the city, on the lake, connected with Wade Park
by a fine boulevard, traversint; Rockefeller Park. — The huge Market (Pi. D, 2),
in Ontario St., is well equipped.
The main part of the city is connected with iheWestern Quarters,
on the other side of the Cuyahoga Valley, by an enormous *Viaduct
(PI. C, 2; *View), 1070 ft. long, completed in 1878 at a cost of
$ 2,200,000 (440,000^.). The main portion of the viaduct is of stone,
but the central part is of iron lattice-work and swings open to allow
the passage of vessels. There are three other similar viaducts at
different parts of the city (see PL D, 3 ; F, 3).
356 Route 50. TOLEDO. From Buffalo
Driving parties may cross the Viaduct and follow Superior^ Detroit^
and Lake Aves. (comp. PI. A, 3) to (8 M.) Rocky River^ a favourite resort
in summer.
A visit may also be paid to tlie great Oil District at the [S.
end of 55tli St. (comp. PI. 0, 5), where tlie enormous tanks and
refining works of the Standard Oil Co. are situated.
The huge Obe Docks of the Erie R. R., on the W. side of the
city, sometimes contain 2,000,000 tons. — The Harbour (PI. A-C,
1, 2) and Breakwater (2 M. long) also repay inspection.
At Warrensville., ca. 7 M. to the S.E. of the town, is the Municipal Farm,
an interesting experiment in the care of prisoners, infirmary patients, and
consumptives.
Cleveland is, naturally, an important Railway Centre, from which
lines radiate, more or less directly, to Pittsburg (p. WT)," Marietta, Colum-
bus (p. 349), Cincinnati (p. 405), Toledo (see below), Chicago (p. 366), etc. —
Steamers ply to all important points on the Great Lakes.
At (208 M.) Elyria the line forks, the branches reuniting at Mill-
bury (see below). The chief station on the right branch is (243 M.)
Sandusky (West Ho., Sloane Ho., $2-3), with a good harbour, a
Soldiers' Home (visible to the left), the State Fish Hatchery, and a
large trade in fish and fruit. Pop. 19,664. Beyond Sandusky we
cross the Bay Bridge (4M. long), affording a fine view of the lake. —
The left or inland line runs via (217 M.) Oberlin and (238 M.) Norwalk.
Oberlin College, with 1850 students, a fine library (80,000 vols.), and
the Olney Art Collection, was the first college opened to both sexes,
white or coloured. — 288 M. Millhury.
296 M. Toledo (Secor, $ 3-5, R. $ 1V2-3V2; Boody Ho., $2V2-4,
R. from $ 1 ; St. Charles, $ 21/2"^, ^- from $ 1 5 Madison, Jefferson,
$ 2-3 ; Wayne, R. from 75 c. 5 Rail. Restaurant), a city and important
railway-centre on the Maumee River , 6 M. from Lake Erie, with
131,822 inhab., has a large trade in grain, clover-seed, coal, iron
ore, and timber, and numerous manufactures (annual value ca.
$ 43,000,000). Among the handsomest of its buildings are the
*Public Library (75,000 vols.), the Lucas County Court House, and
the Toledo Club House. The Toledo Museum of Art, at the corner
of Madison and 13th Sts. (new building in Monroe St.), contains
paintings, sculptures, Egyptian antiquities, and a fine art library.
One of the newspapers is named the Toledo Blade. The Monument
to President McKinley is by Albert Weinert. Many pleasant excursions
may be made on the Maumee River.
Fkom Toledo to Detroit, 65 M., railway in 174-2 hrs. (fare $ 1.30).
The chief stations are (25 M.1 Monroe (with an equestrian statue of Gen.
Custer, 1839-76) and (44 M.) Trenton. — 65 M. Detroit, see p. 358.
From Toledo to Frankfort, 292 M., Ann Arbor R. R. in iii/2 hrs.
(fare $6). This line rnns to ihe N.W. across Michigan. At (22 M..) Dundee
it crosses the Detroit. Toledo, & Ironton Railway. 45 M. Ann Arbor (p. 362);
72 M. Annpere; 96 M. Durand; 107 M. Owosso; 138 M. Ithaca; 164 M. 'i/<.
Pleasant; 227 M. Cadillac; 268 M. Copemish. — 292 M. Frankfort {Royal
Fronttnac, from $272; Park, $2; Windermere, at Beulah, on Crystal Lake,
$ 2) is a picturesque bathing-resort on Lake Michigan, 2 M. from Crystal
Lake (9 M. by 3 M.). Tt is called at by the S.S. 'Manitou' (p. 364).
to Chicago. FORT WAYNE. 50. Route. 357
Beyond Toledo the line forks, the branches rejoining each other
at Elkhaxt (see below). The 'Air Line' (used by through-trains) en-
ters Indiana ('Hoosier State') at (337 M.) Archibald and runs through
that state to (429 M.) Elkhart The 'Old Line' enters Michigan ('Wolv-
erine State') beyond (307 M.) Sylvania and passes (329 M.) Adrian
(810 ft. ; 9654 inhab. in 1900), the centre of a rich farming country,
(362 M.) Hillsdale^ a fine summer-resort, (408 M.) Sturgis (with the
Lewis Art Gallery), and (420 M.) White Pigeon, the junction of a
line to Kalamazoo, Orand Rapids, and Mackinaw (p. 362).
439 M. Elkhart (735 ft.; Depot Hotel, $ 21/2; Rail. Restaurant)
is a busy little city, with 15,184 inhabitants. 454 M. South Bend
(725 ft. 5 Oliver, $21/2-5), a city with 36,000 inhab., on the St.
Joseph's River, is known for its carriages and wagons (Studebaker's
works). — 481 M. La Porte (Teegarden Ho., $ 2; Rail. Restaurant),
a little town, with 7113 inhab. and brisk industries, lies near a chain
of small lakes (Clear, Stone, Pine Lakes), which afford pleasant ex-
cursions (hotels, $ 1 V2-2 ; small steamers). La Porte is the junction
of a line to Indianapolis (p. 401). — 491 M. Otis. Lake Michigan
(p. 366) soon comes into sight on the right. — 514 M. Gary, a new
'steel town', founded by the U. S. Steel Corporation in 1906 and
already containing ca. 20,000 inhab., besides enormous steel-works,
blast-furnaces, and so on. — 521 M. Indiana Harbor (South Bay
Hotel, $2-3). We enter /Wmow ('Prairie State') Sit (627 M.) East
Side. Four other surburban stations are passed before we reach the
La Salle St. Station at —
540 M. Chicago (see p. 366).
b. ViS, New York, Chicago, and St. Louis Railroad.
623 M. Railway ('JVickel Plate Line') in 15-19 hrs. (fare $12; sleeper
or parlor-car $ 3j.
Buffalo, see p. 136. As far as (184 M.) Cleveland (p. 353) this
line runs parallel with the one just described and passes the same
stations. Beyond Cleveland it follows the shore of Lake Erie pretty
closely. 210 M. Lorain, the junction of a line to Elyria (p. 356).
Beyond (221 M.) Vermillion the line bends to the left and runs in-
land. 248 M. Bellevue (Rail. Restaurant) ; 260 M. Green Springs,
with sulphur springs; 280 M. Fostoria, the junction of several
railways ; 286 M. Arcadia (carriages changed for points on Lake Erie
& Western R. R.) ; 300 M. McComb; 310 M. Leipsic Junction, for
Dayton and Cincinnati. Beyond (349 M.) Payne we enter Indiana.
371 M. Fort Wayne (775 ft.; Wayne Ho., $2V2-3V2; Rail-
Restaurant), an industrial city of 45,115 inhab., on the Maumee
River, here formed by the confluence of the St. Joseph and the
St. Mary, occupies the site of an old fort (first built in 1764), which
plays a considerable part in Colonial history. It is a railway-centre
of great importance (comp. p. 349). — Near (424 M.) Tippecanoe
358 Route 60. DETROIT. From Buffalo
Gen. Harrison ('Old Tippecanoe') defeated Tecmnseli, at the head
of the Miamis and Shavmees, in 1812. — 477 M. Valparaiso, with
a nniversity attended hy 5150 students and having a medical de-
partment in Chicago. Board, lodging, and education may be had at
this institution for $ 120 (24i.) a year. — Farther on we enter Illi-
nois. 514 M. Or and Crossing ; 6iQ M.. Englewood; 522 M. Thirty
First Street (Chicago).
523 M. Chicago (Or and Central Station), see p. 366.
c. Vi^ Michigan Central Hailroad.
536 M. Railway (North Shore Line or ''Niagara Falls Route') in 13-16 hrs.
(fare $13; sleeper or parlor-car $3). This line runs on the N. side of
Lake Erie, through Ontario. It affc^rds a good view of Niagara Falls (see
below). Luggage checked to United States points is not examined; small
packages examined in crossing the Cantilever Bridge (p. 151).
Buffalo, see p. 136. The train descends along the right bank
of the Niagara River (p. 139) to (22 M.) Niagara Falls, N. Y.
(p. 148), and (24 M.) Suspension Bridge (p. 144). It then crosses
the river by the * Cantilever Bridge described at p. 151 (*View of
rapids) to (24V2 M.) Niagara Falls, Ontario (p. 146). Thence it
runs to the S., along the Victoria Park (p. 151), to (25V2 M.) Victoria
Park and (27 M.) Falls View, where all trains stop live minutes
to allow passengers to enjoy the splendid * View of Niagara Falls
(p. 147). We then turn to the right (W.). — 38 M. Welland, a small
town with 3000 inhab., lies on the Welland Ship Canal (27 M. long)
uniting Lake Ontario with Lake Erie. It is the junction of a direct
line to Buffalo and of a line to Hamilton and Toronto. — 79^/2 M.
Hagersville. Near (120 M.) Brownsville is the large Lactomen
Factory for the production of dried milk. — 139 M. St. Thomas
[Grand Central, $2-21/2), a thriving town with 11,485 inhab., is
the junction of lines to Toronto, London (p. 364), St. Clair (p. 361),
and Port Stanley, the last, the chief harbour on the N. side of Lake
Erie, lying 8 M. to the S. — 194 M. Fargo; 220 M. Comber; 234 M.
Essex. At (250 M.) Windsor (International, $ 1-2) the train is run
on to a large steam-ferry (tunnel in progress, to be opened in 1909)
and carried across the Detroit River to (251 M.) Detroit.
Detroit. — Railway Stations. Central Station (Mich. Cen. R. R.;
PI. B, 4) cor. of Third and W. Jefferson Aves ; Union Station (PL B, 4;
Wabash, Detroit Southern, Fere Marquette, and Can. Pac. railways), cor.
of Third Ave. and Fort St. ; Brunh Street Station (PI. C. D, 4), at the foot of
Brush St., for the Grand Trunk and Lake Shore & Mich. Southern railways.
Hotels. PoNTCHAKTRAiN (PL b; C, 4), Campus Martius, R. from S 2,
with bath from $3; Tullek (PI. g; B, 8), cor. Adams Ave. and Park St.,
R. with bath from $ I1/2, well spoken of (with restaurant, D. 75c.); Cadillac
(PL a; C, 4), Michigan Ave,, from S3; Ste. Claike (PL c; C. 3, 4), cor. of
Randolph St. and Monroe Ave., $ 2V2-3V2, R- from $ 1; The Watne (PL d;
B, 4), opposite the Central Station, $2V2-4V2, R- from $1; Gbiswold
(Pl.e; C, 4), cor. of Griswold St. and Washington Boulevard; Bsunswick
(PL k; B, 3, 4), cor. Cass and Grand River Aves., $2-3V2, R. from $1;
Washington Inn (PL 1; C, 4), Washington Boulevard, R. from $1; Nok-
MANDiE (PI. f ; C, 4), from $ 2V2, R. from $ 1 ; Oriental (PL h, C, 3, 4; with
G^HaYeiv\v>BaYCyp.'^ Huron
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to Chicago. DETROIT. 50. Route. 359
good Turkish baths), Mbtropole (PI. i; C, 4), these two commercial. —
Swan't Restaurant, 87 Woodward Ave,
Electric Tramways traverse the principal streets (5 c.) and run to var-
ious neighbouring points. — Cabs: drive within the city limits, up to
Vs M., 1 pers. 25 c, within 2 M. 50 c, 3 M. 75 c. ; first hour 1-4 pers. $ IV2,
each, addit. hr. §15 fare and a half between 11p.m. and 5 a.m.; trunk
over 50 lbs. 25 c. — Electric Observation Car from the vicinity of the
City Hall every 2 hrs. (fare 25 c.).
Ferries ply from the foot of Woodward Ave. to Belle Isle (calling
at the foot of Joseph Campau Ave., PI. E 3) and to Wi7idsor every V* br.,
and to Amherstburg and Bois Blanc Park at 9 a.m. and 3.30 p.m., and
from the foot of Joseph Campau Ave. to Walkerville every V2 br. —
Steamboats ply to Fut-in-Bay Islands (p. 365), St. Clair, Cleveland, Bufalo,
Port Huron, SauU-Ste- Marie, Mackinaw, and other points on the Great Lakes.
Theatres. Detroit Opera House, on the N. side of the Campus Martius,
between Monroe and Woodward Aves. (PI. C, 4); Temple, adjoining the
Opera House, cor. Opera House St. and Monroe Ave. (vaudeville); Lyceum,
cor. Randolph and Champlain Sts. (PI. C, 4). — Electric Amusement Park,
adjoining Belle Isle Bridge (p. 361)
Post Office (PI. C, 4; p. 360), Fort St. W., corner of Shelby St.
Detroit (580 ft.), tlie chief city of MicMgan, with (1905)
317,591 inhab., is situated 18 M. from Lake Erie, on the N.W. bank
of the Detroit River, which connects that lake with the small Lake
8t. Clair (530 ft.), just above the city, and so with Lake Huron
(p. 365). It is a well-built town, with numerous trees, carries on a
large traffic in grain, wool, pork, and copper, and has many important
manufactures. Most of its streets (which are notable for their clean-
liness! are laid out on the rectangular plan, but several avenues
radiate from a centre like the spokes of a wheel.
The site of Detroit was visited by Frenchmen in 1670 and 1679 (La
Salle), and in 1701 the Sieur de la Motte Cadillac (p. 293) founded Fort
Pontchartrain here. In 1760 it passed into the hands of the English, and
in 1763-66 it was successfully defended for 15 months against the Indian
chief Pontiac. It was nominally ceded to the United States in 1783, but
the Americans did not become masters of it till 1796. The fort was taken
by the British in 1812 and retaken by the Americans in 1813. Detroit
was incorpt)rated as a city in 1824, with about 1500 inhabitants. In 1850
the population was 21,019, in 1880 it was 134,834, in 1880 it was 205,876.
Some idea of the volume of traffic on the Great Lakes may be
gathered from the fact that 30-35,000 vessels pass Detroit yearly in the
seven or eight months during which navigation is open, carrying about
60-70 million tons (if freight. During the season a U. S. post-office steamer
carries mail to and from the passing vessels.
The staples of its manufactures, the value of which in 1900 was over
$100,000,000 (20,000,000^), are cars and car-wheels, iron and steel goods,
automobiles, adding machines, stoves (i50,(X)0 annually), drugs, confec-
tionery, fur, salt, and tobacco.
The huge soda ash plants of the Solvay Process Co., J. B. Ford & Co.,
and the MicMgan Alkali Co., taking advanta^'e of the immense deposits of
salt in this locality and the near proximity of good limestone, are situated
on the river just below the city.
The finest private art-gallery in Detroit is that of Mr. Charles L. Freer,
33 Ferry Ave. East (PI. A, B, 1), for which free cards of admittance may
be obtained at 915 Union Trust Building. This gallery contains the largest
group of works by Whistler in existence and good examples of Tryon, Dewing,
and Abbott Thayer, as well as many Oriental paintings and potteries.
Woodward Avenue (PI. A-0, 1-4), running N.W. from the river
and dividing the city into two nearly equal parts, is the main busi-
ness thoroughfare. Near its foot (S.E. end) are the chief Steam-
360 Route 50. DETROIT. From Buffalo
boat Wharves and the Ferry to Windsor (p. 359; PI. C, 4). About
1/2 M. from the river the street expands into the Campus Maktius
(PI. C, 4), adorned with a handsome fountain, from which Michigan
and Oratiot Avenues diverge to the left and right. To the left stands
the City Hall (PI. G, 4 ; to he remodelled), the tower (view) of
which contains a clock with a dial 872 ft. in diameter. In front of
the City Hall is' thQ Soldiers Monument^ by Randolph Rogers, and In
front of the Opera House (p. 359) is a Bust of ex-Governor Bagley.
At the corner of Woodward Ave. rises the tall Majestic Building
(PI. C, 4; fine view from the roof, adm. 10 c).
In Gratiot Ave., near the Campus Martius, is the Public library
(PI. C, 4), containing 220,000 vols, and some historical relics. At the
corner of Griswold St. (running parallel with Woodward Ave. on the W.)
and Grand River Ave. is the Young Men's Christian Association (PI. C, 4).
The Chamber of Commerce (PI. C, 4), at the corner of Griswold and State
Sts., is 13 stories high. — The Post Office (PI- C, 4), in Fort St., adjoining
the site of the old Fort LernouU^ is a handsome building. The evacuation
of Fort Lernoult by the British on July 11th, 1796, was the closing act
of the War of Independence (memorial tablet). In the same street, at the
S.E. corner of Shelby St., is the State Savings Bank (PI. C, 4), and ad-
joining it on the E. is the tall Penobscot Building.
Just to the E. of the Campus 3Iartiu3, in Cadillac Square, stands the
* County Building (PI. C, 4). It is in a plain Renaissance style with a
Corinthian portico over the main entrance, sculptures in the pediment,
and a tower surmounted by a gilded dome. In front of it is the Cadillac
Chair, erected in 1901 to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the city's
foundation.
A little farther on Woodward Ave. reaches Grand Circus Park
(PL B, C, 3), a square with trees, fountains, and a Statue ofex-Oover-
nor Pingree (1840-1901), by R. Schwartz. To the N., at the comer
of Adams St. (PL C, 3), is the Central Methodist Churchy with a richly
decorated interior. One block to the E., between Adams and Eliza-
beth Sts., is the new building of the Y. M. C. A. At the corner of
Edmund Place, V2 M. farther on, are the *First Unitarian and First
Presbyterian Churches (PL B, 3), two fine Romanesque buildings of
red stone. Between Erskine and Eliot Sts., to the right, is the
Temple Bethel (PL B, 2), an effective Jewish synagogue. Also to the
right, at the head of Martin Place, is the handsome Harper Hospital
(PL B, 2); and Grace Hospital (PL B, 2) is also seen to the right
(cor. of Willis Ave. and John R. St.) a little farther on. To the left,
a little higher up, is the Detroit Athletic Club (PL B, 2; Nos. 833-
865). The N. end of Woodward Avenue and the adjoining streets
form the principal residence-quarter of the town.
Jbfferson Avenue (PL C-F, 2-4), which runs at right angles
to Woodward Ave., crossing it ^5^. from the river, contains many of
the chief wholesale houses, and towards its N.E. end has also many
pleasant residences. The site of Fort Pontchartrain (p. 359) was at the
corner of Jefferson Ave. and Griswold St., two squares to the W. of
Woodward Ave. (memorial tablet on the Griswold St. side of the
office of the Michigan Mutual Life Insurance Co.). To the E., on the left
side of the street, are the R.C. Cathedral of 88. Peter and Paul and the
to Chicago. DETROIT. 50. Route. 361
Jesuit College (C, D, 4), and on the right side the Academy of the Sacred
Heart (PI. 0, 4). On the same side, at the corner of Jefferson Ave.
and Hastings St., about 1/2 M. to the E, of Woodward Ave., stands the
♦Museum of Art (PI. D, 4; Sun. 2-4, other days 9-4, tree).
The chief contents of the Museum are the Scripps Collection of Old
Masters and the Stearns Collection of Japanese, Chinese, and East Indian
Curiosities. The former contains a painting by Rubens (David and Abigail),
pen-and-ink drawings by Rai>hael and MicJiael Angela, and works ascribed
to Lippi, Pinturicchio, Afasaccio, Bellini, Da Vinci, Matst/s, Titian, Del Sarto,
Correggio, Caracci, Quido Reni, Cuyp, Rembrandt, Teniers, Murillo, Corn, de
Vos, De Hoogh, etc. The museum also contains modern paintings by Qari
Melchers, Munkacsy, Tryon, F. D. Millet, and others.
At Nos. 1022-1056 Jefferson Ave., near Elmwood St., are the large
Michigan Stove Works (PI. E, 3).
In Atwater St., near this point, is the huge Drucf Manufactory of
Messrs. Parke, Davis, d- Co. (PI. E, 3). From the foot of Campau Ave. (PI. E, 3),
a ferry runs^to Walkerville, with its large distilleries.
About 3 M. from Woodward Ave. we reach the bridge crossing
an arm of the river to *Belle Isle (PI. F, 3, 4, and inset-plan), which
is about 700 acres in extent and forms a beautiful public park, with
fine trees and still retaining many of its natural features unimpaired.
It contains a Statue of Schiller (1908), a small Zoological Collection,
a large Aquarium ^- Horticultural Building, and a Casino. In summer
park- carriages take visitors round for a small fee. Fine view of Lake
St. Clair from its E. end. The Detroit Boat Club here has an artistic
boathouse (visitors welcome). Ferries, see p. 359.
Among other points of interest in Detroit are *Elmwood Cemetery
(PI. E, 2), in the E. part of the city, about 1/2 M. to the N.W. of
Jefferson Ave.; Fort Wayne, on the river, 31/2 M. to the S.W. of
Woodward Ave. (tramway, marked Delray, through Fort St.), gar-
risoned by a few companies of U. S. troops; * Water Works Park
(beyond PI. F, 2), on the river, about 4 M. from the centre of the
city; Palmer Park (beyond PI. A, 1), about 5 M. out along Woodward
Ave. ; and Clark Park, a piece of original forest in the W. part of
the city. — A wide Boulevard has been constructed round the
entire city, beginning and ending at the river-front.
In summer Detroit forms an admirable centre for water and other
excursions. — To the N. lies the beautiful Lake District of Oakland County,
easily reached by the Detroit United Electric Railway in i^/t hr., one division
running direct to (25 M. ; fare 25 c.) J'ontiac, and another reaching the same
point via (28 M. ; fare 35 c.) Orchard Lake, the chief resort of the district. —
Among other favourite resorts are Orosse Pointe (with country club and
golf links), on Lake St. Clair, 9 M. to the E., with the country-houses of
many of the citizens ; St. Clair Plata, a shooting and fishing resort, with
its hotels and cottages built on piles; Windsor (p. 359); Mt. Clemens (p. 382;
also reached by trolley-line, passing the curious Orotto of the Virgin, 7 M.
from Detroit) i St. Clair Springs (Somerville, $272-5; Oakland, from $ 3j ;
Kingsville (Ont.), on the N. shore of Lake Erie, 30 M. from Detroit; and
Put-in-Bay Islands (p. 365).
From Detroit to Toledo, see p. 356.
From Detroit to Lansing and Grand Rapids, 153 M., railway (Pere
Marquette) in 4-5 hrs. — 25 M. Plymouth. — 88 M. Lansing {Downey, $ 2-3y2;
Hudson, $2-21/2), the capital of Michigan, is a manufacturing city of (1905)
20,276 inhab., on the Grand River. Adjoining the Capitol is a statue of
362 EouU50. MACKINAC ISLAND. From Buffalo
Gov. Austin Blair, erected in 1898. — 153 M. Grand Bapida (Morton Mo..
$21/2-4; Panilirid, R. from $1; Livingston, $21/2-41/2), a busy city of (1905)
95,718 inhab., with fine water-power afforded by a fall of 18 feet on the
Grand River (value of manufactures in 1900, $25,000,000). There are up-
wards of 100 furniture factories here, some of which (such as Berkey & Gay)
produce excellent imitations of Chippendale, Sheraton, and other old styles.
The most beautiful building in the cit.\ is the Eyerson Free Library (1904).
From Detroit to Pobt Hdron, 57 M., railway in 1^/4 hr. (electric line
in 33/4 hrs.). — 22 M. Mt. Clemens ('Park, Colonial, from $ o), a large summer-
resort, with alkaline sulpho-saline springs which are much frequented by
rheumatic and gouty patients. — 57 M. Fori Huron (p. 365)
Fkom Detroit to Mackinaw City (Mackinac Island), 291 M., railway
in 9 hrs. — This railway traverses nearly the entire length of Michigan
from S. to N., passing through one of the greatest 'lumbering' regions in
America. 60 M. Lapeer; 87 M. Vassar, the junction of a line to (22 M.)
Saginaw City (46,610 inhab. in 1905). — 108 M. Bay City {Fraser Ho., $ 21/2-3),
situated near the point where the Saginaw empties into Saginaw Bay, with
(1905) 27,644 inhab. and a large trade in timber, fish, and salt. — 149 M.
Alger; 228 M Oaylord. 263 M. Topinuhee (Pike's Tavern, $2) is the station
for Burt and Mullet Lakes. 275 M. Chebtygan. — 291 M. Mackinaw City (Went-
worth, $2), with (1905) 696 iuhnb., lies at the N. extremity of ^Michigan,
on the Straits of Mackinac (4 M. wide), which connect Lake Michigan
(p. 366) and Lake Huron (p. 365). Steamers run hence, in connection with
the trains, to St. Ignace (p. 396), on the opposite side of the Straits, and
to (8M.) Mackinac Island (see below), while others run to Sanlt-Ste- Marie
(p. 397), Manistique, etc.
*Mackinac Island, a rocky and wooded little islet, 9 M. in circum-
ference, contains a good deal of picturesque scenery in its narrow limits
and has become a favourite place of summer- resort. Its fresh breezes,
clear water, excellent fishing, and romantic legends are additional attrac-
tions. On the S. side of the island lies the picturesque village of Mackinac,
with 736 inhabitants. On the cliff above it stands Fort Mackinac (aban-
doned), and a little farther inland are the ruins of Fort Holmes (300 feet ;
''Views;, built by the British. The largest hotel on the island is the
Grand Hotel (1300 beds; high charges), on a bluff near the village; and
good accommodation may also be obtained at the Astor House ($ 21/2-3),
the Mission House ($3), the Murray ($2-3), the Island House ($ 21/2-4), the
Lake View ($ 3-31/2), and other smaller inns and boarding-houses. Among
the chief points of interest on the island are the *Arch Rock, on the E.
side, 150 ft. high ; the Lover''s Leap, 145 ft. high ; Rohertson''s Folly, the
Oianfs Causeway, Sugar Loaf Rock, Scott''s Cave, the British Landing (1812),
etc. Excursions may be made to St. Ignace (p 396), the Cheneaux Islands,
Bois Blanc Islaiid, etc. A steamboat tour round the island should also
be made. The island was frequently visited by the early French travellers
and remained in possession of France from 1610 to 1761, when it was
ceded to Great Britain. It came into the bands of the United States in
1796, wat taken by the English in 1812, and was restored to the United
States in 1815. The Astor House (see above) was the headquarters of the
Astor Fur Co., founded by John .Tacob Astor, in 1809-50. Comp. the 'Annals
of Fort Mackinac', by D. H. Kelion, and 'Anne', by Constance Fenimore
Woolson. — Mackinac Island is also reached from Detroit by steamer.
From Detroit to Cincinnati, 263 M., railwav in 7-8 hrs. The chief inter-
mediate stations are (60 M.) Toledo (p. 356), Lima (131 M.), Dayton (204 M.;
p. 232), and Hamilton (237 M.; p. 403). — 283 M. Cincinnati, see p. 405.
From Detroit to Columbus, 184 M., railway in 9 hrs. We diverge
from the above line at (60 M.) Toledo, and follow the Hocking Valley RaU-
teay. — 184 M. Columbus, see p. 349.
Beyond Detroit the line runs almost due "W., across the State of
Michigan. 2681/2 M. Wayne Junction; 280 V2 M. Tpsilanti, a paper-
making town of (1905 ) 7587 inhab., on the Huron River, which we
now foUow. — 288 M. Ann Arbor (770 ft.; Cook Ho., from $ 2;
to Chicago. ANN ARBOR. 50. Route. 363
American, $2-3), a residential, tree-shaded city of (1905) 14,699 in-
hab., situated on both sides of the Huron lllvor, is the seat of the
Univkrsity OP" Michigan, founded in 1837.
This university, one of the most important educational institutes in
the United States, is attended hy al)Out 60C0 students, of whom V" are
women. It diflers from the large Eastern universities in heing a State
institution. It is richly endowed and Las about 30 huildinj^s, good muaeums,
hospitals, and lahoratories, and a lil)rary of about 250,000 volumes. Its
Shakspeare collection (AlcMillan Collection) is second only to tliat of
Boston Public Library (p. 2M). Amon;; its other collections is the Stearns
Musical Collection (1200 pieces). The university also possesses an experi-
mental tank for naval engineerinK.
Ann Arbor is al.so connected with Detroit by electric tramway (fare 50 c.).
327 M. Jackson (925 ft.; liuhl, lUackinan, $ 2-3), an industrial
town on the Grand River, has (1906) 25,300 Inhab., and is the seat
of the state-prison, which, with its (central tower, may bo seen to
the right. It is the junction of lines to Lansing (p. 301), Grand
Rapids (p. 362), etc. Hoyond (337 M.) Parma we follow the wheat-
growing valley of the Kalamazoo River. 348 M. Albion; 359 M.
Marshall. — 372 M. Battle Creek (*Battle Creek Sanitarium, from $3
per day, with treatment from $20 per week; Post Tavern, from
$3), is famous for its manufactories of cereal foods (Force, Korn
Krisp, etc.), a visit to which is of some interest. — 395 M. Kalamazoo
(Hickman, Burdick Ho., $21/2-4), an agricultural centre with (1905)
29,782 inhab. and a Baptist College, is the junction of lines to Grand
Uapids (p. 362) and South Haven (with interesting factories for
making crates and baskets). — Our line now runs to the loft (S.)
to (443 M.) Niles, on the St. Joseph River (4641 inhab. in 1905). —
469 M. New Buffalo. We now entt-r Indiana and have Lake Michigan
to the right. 479 M. Michigan City, with the state-prison for N. In-
diana; 500 M. Lake. Beyond (615 M.) Hammond we enter Illinois.
522 M. Kensington; 530 M. Hyde Park.
536 M. Chicago (Illinois Central Station), see R.61.
d. Vifi. Grand Trunk Railway.
541 M. Railway in 16-18 hrs. (fares as at p. 358). Q'his line passes through
the peninsular part of the province of Ontario, one of the mo.st fertile
districts in Canada. — IIand-baggay;e examined in crossing the Niagara and
St. Clair Rivers. — For fuller details, see Baedeker^a Canada.
From Buffalo (p. 136) we proceed to (24 M.) Suspension Bridge
either by the N. Y. C. & H. R. R. K. or the Erie R. K. Thence we
cross the river by the Lower Steel Arch Bridge (p. 162). From the
Canadian village of (241/4 M.) Niagara Falls (Kail. Restaurant) the
line runs almost due W. At (34 M.) Merritton the train crosses the
Wetland Ship Canal (p. 368) by a bridge. — 36 M. St. Catharine's
(Welland, a combination of hotel and sanatorium, $21/2-^ V2» i'»<'lud-
ing baths, massage, etc.), a town of 9946 inhab., on the Welland Canal,
with mineral springs. Lake Ontario is now often in view to the right.
50 M. Qrimshy Park, with a Methodist camp-meeting ground, lies in
a district producing abundance of peaches and other fruit.
Babdbkbr'8 United States. 4th Edit. 2B
364 Route 50. PORT HURON. From Buffalo
68 M. Hamilton (255 ft.; Royal, $2V2-4; Waldorf, $2-3;
Osborne, $2; Stockyard, $1-11/2; B.ail. Restaurant), finely situated
at the "W/end of Lake Ontario, a busy industrial and commercial city
of (1901) 52,634 inhab., is the junction of the railway to Toronto,
which may also be reached by steamer. — 87 M. Harrisburg (785 ft.),
the junction of various lines; 115 M. Woodstock (960 ft.).
144 M.London (805ft.; TecumsehEo., $2-3; Origg Ho., $ 1 1/2-*^;
Rail. Restaurant), an important agricultural and railway centre, with
37,981 inhab. and a considerable trade. — 203 M. Sarnia (Yen-
dome, $2-21/2; Belchamber, $ 1V2-2), on Lake Huron, with 8176
inhabitants. "We now pass from Canada to the United States (Michi-
gan) by a Tunnel, i^/Q M. long, under the St. Clair River. This was
constructed in 1888-91 at a cost, including approaches, of $2,700,000
(540,000^). It consists of a cast-iron tube, with an inside diameter
of 20 ft., and was designed by Mr. Joseph Hobson. The trains are
now hauled through it by electric motors.
Central time is now the standard. 206 M. Port Hnron (Harring-
ton, $21/2-372; Huron Beach Hotel; Rail. Restaurant), with (1905)
20,028 inhab., lies on Lake Huron, at the mouth of the Black River,
and carries on a trade of considerable importance (lumber, fish, etc.).
The train now runs to the S.W. through Michigan. 251 M, Lapeer
(p. 362). From (288 M.) Durand (Rail. Restaurant) a line diverges
to Grand Haven, on Lake Michigan, whence a steamer plies to Mil-
waukee (p. 381). 320 M. Lansing (p. 361) ; 365 M. Battle Creek (p. 363 ;
Rail. Restaurant); 396 M. Schoolcraft; 442 M. South Bend (p. 357);
485 M. Valparaiso (p. 358); 521 M. Blue Island Junction.
541 M. Chicago (Dearborn Station), see R. 51.
e. By Steamer.
It is possible to go the whole way from Buffalo to Chicago by water,
through Lakes Erie, Huron, and Michigan, without change of steamer.
— The 'North Land' and 'North Wesf, the two magnificent steamers of
tbe NoETHEEN Steamship Co. (each 3S6 ft. long, of 5000 tons burden, and
accommodating 500 passengers), leave Buffalo (wharf at foot of Main St.,
PI. C, 8) every Wed. and Sat. in summer at 8 p.m. (Central time). The
'North Land' goes through to Chicago, which it reaches on Sat. at 2 p.m. ;
the 'North West' goes to (3 days) Duluth (p. 393), and Chicago passengers
must change at (IV2 day) Mackinac Island. Through -fare to Chicago
§13.50, berths extra (from $41/2, to Mackinac from $3 up). Luggage up
to 150 lbs. is free. Fares to Cleveland^ $ 2.50; to Detroit^ $ 4.75 ; to Mackinac
Island, %%; to Saull-Sie-Marie, $111/2; to Duluth, $18 (berth from $41/2).
Meals a la carte. Passengers may also book on the American plan (inside
rooms only) ; inclusive fare to Chicago from $ 25, to Duluth from $ 30,
other places in proportion. These steamers are admirably appointed in
every way and afford most comfortable quarters. The Northern 8.S. Co.
works in connection with the Great Northern Railway and offers a large
choice of circular and other tours by land and water. — Chicago passengers
on the 'North West' remain over night at Mackinac Island and on the
following day take the steamer 'Manitou' (30J0 tons) of the Nobthebn
Michigan Transfek Co., which reaches the 'Windy City' in one day more
to Chicago. LAKE ST. CLAIR. 50. Route. 365
(from BiiflEalo 2V2 days? meals on 'Manitou'' a la carte, berth from $ 1).
As the 'Manitou'' does not call at Milteauiee, passengers for that city are
sent on from Chicago by the Goodrich Line without extra charge.
The steamers of the Anchor Line ('Tionesta' and 'Juniata' the best)
leave Buffalo (dock at foot of Evans St., PI. C 7) once or twice weekly
between May 1st and Oct. ist for Duluih, which they reach in about 4^/3 days
(through - fare, including berth and meals, $35). They leave at 11 p.m.
(open to passengers after 5 p.m.) and call at Erie, Cleveland, Detroit, Mackinac
Island, SauU-Ste- Marie, Marquette, and Portage Lake (Houghton and Hancock).
At Mackinac Island they connect with steamers for Milwaukee and (1 day)
Chicago (through-fare from Buffalo $ 25, incl. meals and berth on Anchor
Line steamers only).
Even if he has not time for the whole voyage, the traveller who is
wearied of rail way -travelling may be glad to make part at least of the distance
by water. Stop-over checks are given by the Purser to first-class passengers
on application. Warm wraps should be taken even in midsummer.
In 1907 the total burden of the vessels entering and clearing the
ports of the Great Lakes in the domestic trade amounted to nearly
100,000,000 tons. New vessels are built annually with a burden of about
150,000 tons. Comp. pp. 353, 359.
Buffalo^ see p. 136. The steamer plies to fhe "W. throngli Lake
Erie (see p. 137). The following are the points usually called at by
the Anchor Line, and ample time to go ashore is generally allowed
(consult the captain). [The vessels of the Northern S.S. Co. touch
at Cleveland and Detroit only before reaching Mackinac]
80 M. Erie, see p. 187. Hither Commodore Perry brought his
prizes after defeating the English fleet in 1813. — The steamer now
runs near the well-wooded shore, passing Ashtabula (p. 353).
175 M. Cleveland (p. 356), one of the most beautiful cities
on the great lakes, is seen to advantage from the steamer. The
Oarfield Memorial (p. 355) is conspicuous as we approach. Several
hours are usually spent here. — Then the coast becomes more
picturesque. Sandusky (p. 356) is the chief place passed before
we leave Lake Erie. The Put-in-Bay Islands, near the mouth of
the Detroit, are a favourite summer-resort (several hotels).
Detroit River, which we ascend on leaving Lake Erie, is" 25 M.
long and varies in width from 4 M. at its mouth to Y2M. oppo-
site Detroit. It generally presents a very animated scene (comp.
p. 359).
285 M. Detroit, see p. 358.
"We now pass Belle Isle (p. 361) by the Canadian channel and soon
enter Lake St. Clair (530 ft.), a shallow lake, 25 M. in diameter
and about 20 ft. deep. The intricate navigation of the shallow
upper end is avoided by a canal 1^2 M, long. The lake is connect-
ed with Lake Huron by the St. Clair River, a strait 40 M. long.
355 M. Port Huron, see p. 364. Opposite, on the Canadian
shore , lies Sarnia (p. 364). We pass above the tunnel mentioned
at p. 364. Between Fort Oratiot and Fort Edward, just above Port
Huron, the strait narrows to 330 yds.
Lake Huron, which we now enter, is 250 M. long, 50-200 M.
wide, 23,800 sq. M. in area, 580 ft. above the sea, and 800-1700 ft.
23*
366 Route 51. CHICAGO. Practical
deep. It contains about 3000 islands, and is often visited by violent
storms. Tlie steamer makes no stop before reacMng —
620 M. Mackinac Island, where passengers for Chicago often
have to change steamers see p. 362). Those who v^ish to go on at
once take the steamer 'Manitou', vvhich makes close connection
with the Buffalo boats ; but there are several other steamers plying
regularly between Mackinac Island and Chicago.
The steamer on which we have been travelling hitherto (with the ex-
ception of the 'North Land') goes on through the beautiful St. Marys River
(65 M. long), connecting Lakes Huron and Superior, to (695 M.) Sault-
Ste-Marie (p, 397). Thence it traverses Lake Superior to (1065 M. ; 3-5 days
from Buffalo according to steamer) Duluth (p. 393), as described in the
reverts direction in E,. 56b.
The Chicago steamer passes through the Straits of Mackinac
(p. 362) and enters Lake Michigan (590 ft. above the sea), the
largest lake within the United States (360 M. long, 108 M. wide;
greatest depth 900 ft.). Some of the steamers call en route at —
360 M. (980 M. from Buffalo) Milwaukee (p. 381), about
16 hrs. from Mackinac, but the 'Manitou (comp. p. 364) goes direct
to Chicago. — 450 M. (1070 M.) Chicago see below.
51. Chicago.
Plans. In the subjoined General Flan of Chicago (scale 1:100,000),
referred to as Gen. PI., clearness is aimed at by the omission of some of
the streets. Plans I & 11 (pp. 371, 370 show the most important part of
the city, adjoining the lake-front, on a somewhat larger scale (1 : 33,330).
Flan III (p. 374) shows the heart of the business section on a scale of
1 : 12,OCiO. — The lack of street- signs at many of the corners is inconvenient.
Railway Stations. Illinois Central R. R. (PI. G, 3-, 7), at the S. end of
Grant Park, also used by the C. C. C. & St. L., the C. 0. & L., the Wisconsin
Central, and the M. C. R. R. (suburban stations at the foot of Ran-
dolph St., PI. G 3, /, and at the foot of Van Buren St., PI. G 3, 7, the
latter underground); Canal St. Union Depot (PI. F, 3; i), for the C. <fe A.,
C, B. & Q., C. M. & St. P., P. C. C. & St. L., and P. Ft. W. & C. R.R.5
Van Buren or La Salle St. Station (PI. F, 3 ; /) on the 'Union Loop' (p. 368),
for the C. E. I. & P., the L. S. & M. S., the C. & E. I., and the N. Y. C.
& St. L. R.R.; Dearborn Station (PI, F, 3; 7), cor. of Dearborn and Polk
Sts., for the C. & G. T., A. T. & S. F., Erie, Chic, Indianapolis, & Louis-
ville, and Wabash R.R.; Grand Central Station (PI. F, 3; 7), Harrison St.,
for the Chic. Terminal Transfer R.R. (belt line connecting with all the
railways enteiing Chicago), the Pere Marquette System, the Chic. Gt. West.
R.R., and the B. & O. R.R.; Chicago & Mi'th - Western (Wells St. Station;
PI. F, 3; 7), cor. of Wells and Kinzie Sts., also used by the U. P. R.E. —
Cab to the principal hotels, 1-2 pers. 50 c; hack (1-2 pers.) $ 1 (comp. p. 368).
Farmelee's Omnibuses, 50 c. each.
Hotels, a. Central District. La Salle Hotel (PI. 1, F3; 777), at the
cor, of La Salle and Madison Sts., a huge house with 11(X) rooms, to be
opened in 1909. Auditoeium (PI. a, G 3; 7), a large building in Michigan
Avenue, facing the lake, with a very elaborate interior, $ 3'/2-5, E. $2-4;
it is connected by a tunnel lined with white marble with the *Additokidm
Annex (PI. z, G 3; 7), at the opposite corner of Congress St. and Michigan
Ave., which is preferable in many ways to the Auditorium itself (beautiful
Pompeian Room, with Tiffany Fountain). Congeess Apastments (PI. c,
F G, 3; 7), Michigan Ave., adjoining the Auditorium Annex and under the
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Notes. CHICAGO. 51. Route. 367
same management, E. from $2; Wellington (PI. e, G 3-, ///), cor, of
Wabash Ave. and Jackson Boul., R. from $ IV2; Victokia (PI. v, G 3; ///),
194 MicMgan Ave., cor. Van Buren St., $ 272-5 ; Steatford fPl. u, G 3 ; III),
Michigan Ave., R. from $11/2; Great Northern (PI. n, F3; ///), 237 Dear-
born St., well spoken of, R. from $1; Grand Pacific Hotel (PI. f,
F 3; ///), Jackson Boul., cor. S. Clark St., R. from $ 2; Palmer House
(PI. p, F G, 3; ///), cor. of Monroe and State Sts., a large house, fre-
quented by business-men and politicians, R. from $11/2; Sherman (PI. s,
F 3; ///), cor. Randolph & S. Clark Sts., from $ 2V2, R. $ 1V2-4; Windsoe-
Clifton (PI. y, F G, 3 ; ///), cor. of Monroe St. and Wabash Ave., R. $ 1-3;
Majestic. Quincy St., R. from $ 1; Saratoga, 155 Dearborn St., R. from
S 11/2; Briggs House (PI. q, F 3; ///), cor. of Fifth Ave. ard Randolph St.,
E. from $ I5 Grace, next door to the Union League Club (PI. F. 3; ///),
R. from $ 1: Bismarck (PI. b, F 3: ///), 180 Randolph St., R. $ 1-3;
Kaiserhof, S. Clark St. (Nos. 274, 266), R. from $1; Beevoort (PI. t,
F 3; ///), Madison St., near La Salle St., R. from $ IV2; Morrison
(PI. r, F 3; J J I), cor. Madison & Clark Sts., R. from $ 1; Gadlt House
rPl. g, F 3; /), W. Madison St., $ 2-2V2, R. from 75 c; McCoy's (PI. k,
F 3; ///), R. from $ 1. — b. North Side. Virginia (PI. i, F G, 2; /), Ohio &
Rush Sts., R. from $1; Ontario (PI. o, F2;/), Ontario St., $ 21/2-5. —
c. South Side. *Metropole (Pi. m, G4: /), Michigan Ave., cor. of 23rd St.,
R. from $ IV2; Lexington (PI. x, G 4'; /), Michigan Ave., cor. 22nd St.,
from 52, R. from SI; Chicago Beach (PI. j, H 6: //), 51st St. and Lake
Shore, from $ 3, R. from $ 11/2; Windermere (PI. w, H 7; 77), cor. of
Cornell Ave. & 56th St., $ 4-6, these two, and especially the Windermere,
conveniently situated for visitors to the University; Htde Park (PI. h,
H 6; 77), cor. of 51st St. and Lake Ave., S 2V2-4; Kenwood, cor. of 47th St.
and Kenwood Ave.; Del Prado, on the Midway, between Madison and
Washington Aves., near Jackson Park (PI. G, H, 7; 777), S 2V2-4. — Board
may easily be obtained in any part of the town from S 5 to S 15 per week.
Restaurants. ''Auditorium Annex, with cafe in the Pompeian Room
Cp. 386), much frequented after the theatre; ''De Jonghe, 45 Monroe St.;
Rector, cor. of Monroe St. and Clark St. (fish, etc.; frequented by actors);
"Wellington Hotel, "Stratford Hotel (with handsome Dutch Room), Sherman
Hotel, see above; Absons Chop House, 125 La Salle St.; Tip Top Inn,
9th floor of Pullman Building; Savoy, cor. of Harrison St. & Wabash
Ave.; Kuntz-Remmler, 303 Wabash Ave.; St. Hub er Vs. on the top floor of
the Majestic Hotel (see above; grillroom); Hofbrdu, 118 Monroe St.; Union,
109 E. Randolph St.; Bismarck (see above) ; Vogelsang, 178 Madison St.;
Schlogl, 109 Fifth Ave., between Madison St. and Washington St. (for men) ;
Mangle)\ 119 La Salle St. (for men); Edelweiss, 105 Mndison St.; Gallauer,
cor. of N. Clark St. & Germania PL; Gunther's Luncheon Rooms, 212 State St.,
for ladies; Kohlsaafs Luncheon Rooms, 1S6 Clark St., 59 Washington St.,
etc.; John R. Thompson's Restaurants, 355 and 397 State St., 165 Adams St.,
etc.; Henrici, 103 Randolph St.; Cafi Berlin, 76 State St. ; Seaver, 86 State
St. ;'also at most of the other hotels and at Marshall Field's and other large
department stores ; '^King Joy Lo, Chinese restaurant, 100 Randolph St. ; Hung
Fong Lo Co. (Chinese), 278 State St. — Beer Saloons : Stein, Kretschmar,
N. Clark St. (Nos. 649, 625). — Wine Rooms : Jansen, 163 Washington St. ;
Wilken, 49 La Salle St. (Californian wines); Berkes, 75 Dearborn St.
Elevated Railroads (similar to those of New York, p. 15; electric motors;
uniform fare 5 c). 1. South Side Rapid Transit to Jackson Park (PI. H, 7, 8 ; 77),
with branches from the station at cor. 40rh St. and Indiana Ave. (PI. F G,
5, 6; 77) to the Stockyards, to Englewood (Gen. PI. F, 7), and to 42nd St.
and Lake Ave. (PL Gr, H, 6; 77). — 2. Metropolitan West Side along W. Van
Buren St. (Gen. PI. D-F, 3) and Harrison St. (Gen. PI. A-F, 3) to 48th St.
Station (Gen. PI. B, 3), with branches to the N. and S. — 3. Lake Street along
Lake St. (PI. E, F, 3; 77) to 52nd St. and on to Oak Park. — 4. North
Western along Fifth Ave. (PI. F, 3 ; 7) and Wells St. to Buena Park and
Wilson Avenue. — In the 'Down Town District' the four companies use
a common track, known as the Union Loop, running along Wabash Ave.
from Van Buren St. to Lake St., along Lake St. to Fifth Ave., alcng Fifth
Ave. to Van Buren St., and so back to its starting-point.
S6S Route 51. CHICAGO. Practical Notes.
Tramways (electric) traverse the chief streets and run to suburban
points (fare 5 c.). Cars stop at the farther street-crossings or at other
places indicated by signs. — Parmeke's Omnibuses run between the hotels
and railway-stations (50 c).
Cabs. With one horse: 1-2 pers. per mile 50c., each addit. mile or
person 25 c; per br. (1 or more pers.), $ 1. With two horses (Hacks):
1-2 pers. 1 M. $ 1, 2 M. $ IV2, each addit. pers. 50 c, per hr. $ 2, each
addit. hr. $ ii/2, per day $ 8-10. Ordinary baggage free; if weight exceeds
75 lbs., 15 c. per package. Each vehicle is bound to exhibit a tariff inside,
but it is well to come to a clear understanding beforehand. — Taxicdbs
with fares as at New York (p. 19).
'Seeing Chicago' Automobiles fcomp. p. 19), starting near the Federal
Building (p. 373), make frequent trips through the city (fare § 1),
Steamers ply from Chicago to all points on the Great Lakes. Among
the chief lines are the Goodrich^ the Lake MicMgan & Lake Superior Trans-
portation Co., the Northern Michigan Transfer, the Northern, the Anchor, and
the Oraham <£• Morton Transportation Co. Steamers to Milwaukee (p. 381)
run 2-3 times daily. Small steamers ply frequently (esp. on Sun. and
bolidays) to Jackson and Lincoln Parks (p. 376), and larger ones to St. Joseph
est. Joe" ; Mich.), South Haven (Mich. ; $ 1 ; p. 363), and other points. The
steamboat wharves are mainly along the river, within 1/2 M. of its mouth.
Theatres and Places of Amusement. Auditorium Theatre (PI. a, G8; ///),
Congress St. (comp. p. 3T0), splendidly fitted up and accommodating 4-5000
people (used on Sun. for preaching services by Rev. Dr. Gunsaulus, p. 379);
Powers Theatre (PI. F, 3; ///), Randolph St.; Colonial Theatre, 81 Randolph
St.; Illinois (PI. G, 3; ///), 22 Jackson Boulevard; Majestic (p. 875); Grand
Opera House (PI. F, 8; ///), Clark St.; Qarrick Theatre (PI. F,3; ///), Ran-
dolph St.. built by Sullivan, the architect of the Auditorium; Studebaker,
in the Fine Arts Building (PI, G, 3 -, ///); McVicker's Theatre (PI. F, 3; ///),
Madison St.; Great Northern Theatre (PI. n, F 3; ///), Jackson St., near
Dearborn St.; Academy of Music, S. Halsted St.; Chicago Opera Hou^e
(vaudeville; PI. F 3, III), 118 Washington St.; Olympic (PI. F, 3; ///),
Haymarket, vaudeville performances; International Theatre, cor. of Wabash
Ave. & Hubbard Court. — Coliseum, Wabash Ave., near 14th St., for concerts
and exhibitions. — Amusement Parks, with concerts, etc. : White City, cor.
of 63rd St. and S. Park Ave. (PI. G, 7; //) ; Forest Park, cor. of Harrison St.
and Desplaines Ave., 10 M. to the W. of the City Hall ; Sans Souci, cor. of
60th St. and Cottage Grove Ave. (PL G, 7; //) ; Ravinia Park, ca. 20 M. to
the N. of Chicago, reached by train or electric car; Chutes Park, in the W.
Side; Riverview , Western, Belmont, and Clybourn Aves., 5 M. to the
N.W. of the City Hall. — The ''Chicago Orchestral Concerts, organized by
the late Theodore Thomas and now directed by Frederick A. Stock, are
held in the building of the Chicago Orchestra Association (p. 371).
Post Office (PI. F, 3; 7), in block bounded by Adams, Dearborn, Jack-
son, and Clark Sts. ; general delivery open day and night, on Sun. 11-1.
Booksellers. McChirg, 215 Wabash Ave. ; Frank M. Morris, 171 Madison
St. and 152 Wabash Ave.
Consuls. British, Mr. Alexander Finn, 605 Pullman Building; German
Consul-General, Dr. Walther Wever, 1150 First National Bank Building.
Tourist Agents. Raymond & Whitcomb Co., 103 Adams St.; Thos. Cook
& Son, 234 S. Clark St.
Chicago (pron. SKikdwgo; 590 ft. above the sea, 15-75 ft. above
the lake), the second city and largest railway-centre of the United
States, is situated on the S.W. shore of Lake Michigan (p. 366), at the
mouths of the rivers Chicago (p. 372) and Calumet. It is 850 M. from
Baltimore, the nearest Atlantic port, and 2415 M. from San Francisco.
It covers an area of 190 sq. M., and in 1900 contained 1,698,575 in-
hab. (on Jan. Ist, 1907, estimated pop. 2,079,841). The city has a
History. CHICAGO. 51. Route. 369
water-front on the lake of 26 M. and is divided by the CMcago Eiver
and its branches into three portions, known as the North, South,
and West Sides. The site of the city is remarkably level, rising very
slightly from the lake ; and its streets are usually wide and straight.
Among the chief business-thoroughfares are State, Clark, Madison,
Randolph, Dearborn, and La Salle Streets, and Wabash Avenue.
Perhaps the finest residence streets are Prairie and Michigan Avenues
and Drexel and Grand Boulevards, on the S. side, and Lake Shore
Drive, on the N. side.
It is estimated that not more than 350,000 of the inhabitants are of
native American parentage; about 550,000 are Germans, 250,000 are Irish,
225.000 Scandinavians, 160,000 Poles, 110,000 Bohemians, 40,000 Italians,
60,000 Canadians, and 100,000 English and Scottish. 'In Chicago there are
some 14 languages, besides English, each of vrhich is spoken by 10,000
or more persons. Newspapers appear regularly in 10 languages, and church-
services may be heard in about 20 languages. Chicago is the second largest
Bohemian city of the vrorld, the third Swedish, the third Norwegian, the
fourth Polish, the fifth German. In all there are some 40 foreign languages
spoken by numbers ranging from half a dozen to half a million. {Prof.
G. D. Buck, in 'Decennial Publications of the University of Chicago'' ; 1903.)
At least one factory has to print its rules in eight languages.
History. The growth of Chicago has been phenomenal even among
American cities. The river Chicago (the Indian Ghecagua, meaning 'wild
onion' and 'pole-caf) was, indeed, visited by the Frenchmen Joliet and
Marquette in 1673, but it was not until 1804 that the United States Govern-
ment erected Fort Dearborn, the first permanent settlement in the swamp
that was afterwards Chicago. The garrison of the fort was massacred by
Indians in 1812, but the fort was rebuilt and re-occupied two years later.
In 1831 the little village contained about 100 inhab. and in 1837 it had
attained to the dignity of an incorporated city and a population of 4170. In
1850 its population had increased to 29,963, and its commercial enterprise had
begun to attract attention. A signal instance of the energy of the citizens
was given in 1855, when the level of the entire city was raised 7 ft., huge
buildings being elevated bodily without inteiTuption to business. By 1860
its population was almost quadrupled (109,206), while its trade in bread-
stuffs had increased tenfold. By 1870 Chicago contained 306,605 inhab.,
and had become one of the leading commercial centres of the New "World.
In 1871 (Oct. 8-lOth) the flourishing city was the scene of a terrible con-
flagration, which originated in the W. side (at No. 137 De Koven St. 5 PI.
F, 3, /), crossed to the N. of the river, swept over an area of SVz sq. M.,
destroyed 17,500 buildings and property to the value of nearly $ 200,000,000
(40,000,000^.), and left 100,000 people homeless. About 200 people perished
in the flames. The recovery from this disaster was rapid and complete;
and in a few years the only trace of it was the improved character of the
streets and buildings. The fire found Chicago of wood and left it of brick
and stone. In 1880 the population was 503,185, in 1890 it was 1,099,850. —
Great injustice is done to Chicago by those who represent it as wholly
given over to the worship of Mammon, as it compares favourably with
many American cities in the efforts it has made to beautify itself by the
creation of parks and boulevards and in its encouragement of education and
the liberal arts (comp. pp. 371, 372, 375, etc.). Among the private collections
of art and literature may be mentioned those of Mr. Martin A. Ryerson, Mr.
C. L. Hutchinson, Mr. R. Hall McGormick (British portraits), Mrs. Potter Falmer,
Mr. Frank G. Logan (paintings of the Barbison and other French schools)
and Mr. C. F. Gunther (rare books, prints, portraits, andMSS.; autograph
of Moliere; alleged autograph of Shakspeare; MSS. of Tennyson's 'Maud'
and Swinburne's 'Atalanta in Calydon'). No other one event has stimulated
Chicago's higher activities so much as the holding within its borders in
1893 of the World's Columbian Exhibition, celebrating the four-hundredth
anniversary of the discovery of America by Columbus. — Chicago has
370 Route 61 . CHICAGO. Commerce.
long been the favourite meeting - place of the conventions held by the
great political parties to nominate candidates for the office of President.
Lincoln (1860), Grant (1868), Garfield (18S0), Cleveland (1884 and 1892),
^ Harrison (1888), Roosevelt (1904), and Taft (1908) were all nominated here.
Commerce and Industry. The trade of Chicago is second to that of
New York alone among American cities, and in 1900 amounted in value
to 2000 million dollars (400 millions sterling). The staples are grain,
• lumber, live-stock, and packed meat, in which branches it is the largest
market in the world. The value of its manufactures in 1905 was $ 955,000,000
(191,090,000^.), including iron and steel wares, agricultural implements, rail-
way-cars, textiles, leather, beer, spirits, chemicals, etc. The annual tonnage
of vessels entering Chicago Harbour is about 8,000,000, — Among the
leading industrial establishments may be mentioned the Illinois Steel Co.,
which has three plants in different parts of the city (including the largest
rolling mills in the world at South Chicago, covering 334 acres), has a
capital of $35,0J0, 000 (7,000,000?.), and employs 10,000 men; and the Inter-
national Harvester Co., comprising the IfcCorTTiiciTFbr^ in the S.W. part of
the city (230 acres and 7000 hands), the Deering Harvester Co.'s works in the
N .W. part of the city (Gen, PI. E, 1 ; 76 acres of ground and 4800 men),
and the Weber Woi'ks (15 acres ; 500 employees), in the S, part of the city.
The International Harvester Co. produces annually about 730,000 farm
machines and wagons and 50,000 tons of binder twine. It also owns steel
mills at S. Chicago (93 acres, 1500 men), where steel is made and rolled
for the above-mentioned plants of the Company. Mention must also be
made of the Chicago Cold Storage Exchange. Comp. also p. 379.
Architecture. Chicago has become identified with the erection of
enormously tall ofiice-buildings, the upper stories of which are made ac-
cessible by rapid-running elevators. The architectural beauty of these is
often questionable, but no one can fail to admire the wonderful skill of
their architectural engineering. Ihese 'sky-scrapers' are now erected on
the 'steel-frame system', the walls affording no support to the edifice but
merely forming a kind of veneer to the actual structural frame. The
interiors are often admirably fitted up and adorned (comp. p. xc). —
Engineers will also be interested in the Waddell Lift Bridge, over the
S. branch of the Chicago River, at S. Halsted St., near 24th St. (PI. F, 4; I),
which can be lifted, by means of pulleys and counter-weights, to a height
of 155 ft. above the channel. It is not considered by any means so suc-
cessful as the rolling lift or bascule bridges in other parts of the city. —
An extensive system of subways or tunnels has been coostructed under the
streets of the crowded district's for the handling of freight by electricity.
The development of this system is expected to work a revolution in the
city's streets.
The visitor to Chicago cannot, perhaps, better begin Ms exam-
ination of the city than by ascending to the top of the Tower (270ft.
high ; adm. 25 c) of the *Auditorium (PI, G, 3 ; ///), which affords
a splendid view. This hnge building, erected by Adler <$ Sullivan in
1887-89 at a cost of $ 3,500,000, includes a large hotel (p. 366) and
a handsome theatre (p, 368 5 4200 seats). The longest front of the
building, towards Congress St., is 360 ft. — The Fine Arts or
Studehaker Building (PI, G, 3 ; III), adjoining the Auditorium, is one
of the show buildings of Chicago, but, though in several respects not
unworthy of its situation, it is too palatial in character to fairly re-
present the severity of this city's commercial architecture (Schuyler).
It has deservedly been described as the focus of the artistic and in-
tellectual life of Chicago, containing as it does a theatre, concert,
assembly, and lecture rooms, studios of leading artists, and the
meeting-places of several clubs, — The beautifol Romanesque build-
-1
Art Institute. CHICAGO. 51. Route. 371
ing to the N. of the Fine Arts Building is the Chicago Club (PI. G,
3 ; ///). A little farther to the N., at the corner of Jackson Boulevard,
istYietallRailway Exchange Building (Pl.G^S 1 1ll), erected in 1903-4
and cased in tiles. Next to this on the N. is the new hnilding of the
Chicago Orchestra Association (concerts, see p. 368), on the roof of
which is the house of the 'Cliff Dwellers', a new literary and artistic
club. — A little to the S. of the Auditorium, at the corner of Harrison
St., is the Harvester Building (16 stories- PI. F G, 3, /), erected
in 1970.
All these buildings face upon MicmGAN Avenue and Grant
Park (PI. G, 3 ; /), the latter consisting of a public pleasure-ground
of 210 acres abutting on Lake Michigan. The park is as yet in a
somewhat inchoate condition, but has been improved of late by the
depression of the tracks of the Illinois Central Railway and by the
construction of massive stone viaducts connecting the park proper
with the lake-shore. The adjoining part of the lake, between the
shore and the breakwater, has been filled in and added to the park.
In Grant Park, ^/^M. to the S. of the Auditorium and opposite
Eldredge Place, is an ^Equestrian Statue of Gen. John A. Logan
(1824-86 ; PL G 3, 1), in bronze, by Aug. Saint-Gaudens (1897). The
general is represented as rallying his troops before Atlanta.
Grant Park will probably be the site of Lorado TafVs "Fountain of
tlie Great Lakes', the first fraits of a bequest of $ 1,075,000 made by Mr.
S. Ferguson (d. 1905) for the embellishment of Chicago by works of sculp-
ture. The new Field Museum (comp. p. 377) and a seated statue of Lincoln
by Saint-Gaudens, are also to be located here.
A little farther to the S. is the Illinois Central Station (PI. G,
3 ; I), an admirable railway terminal building.
Following Michigan Ave. towards the N. from the Auditorium,
we soon reach (right) the *Art Institute of Chicago (PI. G, 3 ; i),
an imposing building in a semi - classical style, erected from the
plans of Charles A. Coolidge in 1892-93. It contains valuable col-
lections of paintings, sculpture, and other objects of art, and also
the largest and most comprehensive art school in America (3500 stu-
dents). All the objects are provided with explanatory labels. The
collections are open daily, 9-5 (Sun. 1-5); adm. 25 c., free on Wed.,
Sat., and Sunday. The annual number of visitors is about 600,000.
Director, W. M. R. French. Catalogue 15 c.
The Basement Floob is devoted to school-rooms and work-rooms.
Main Floor. Rooms i-5, 8, 10, and 12, contain the Elhridge 0. Hall
Collection of Casts of Ancient and Modern Sculpture. There are also a few
original modern works in R. 12. — Room 6 contains the "^ Higginhotham
Collection of Reproductions of Rronzes at Naples. — Room 11 contains old
French sculpture. — Room 13 holds musical instruments. — Room 15
contains a small but good collection of scarabsei, beads, and other Egyp-
tian antiquities, and also Greek vases, glass, and terracottas. — Room 16
contains oil-paintings. — Room 20, at the back, is Blackstone Hall, a
gallery over 200 ft. long, containing the Blackstone Collection of Architec-
tural Casts, chiefly of French subjects. — Room 18 is the Fullerton Lecture
Hall and Room 2i is the Ryerson Library of Fine Art.
On the IJPPEB Floob are paintings, textiles, and Japanese objects. —
Room 38 (to the right at head of staircase). Field Memorial Collection of
372 Route 51. CHICAGO. Public Library.
Paintings, chiefly of the Barhison School: *131. Millet, Bringing home
the new-born calf; 136. Troyon, Returning from market; landscapes by
Corot (108), (7azi7» (104), and Constable (111); 118. Deiaille, Mounted officer 5
101. Breton, Song of the lark. — Room 39 (Siickney Room) contains paint-
ings by modem masters, including examples of Whistler (348), Millet (1004),
Fantin-Latour (390. Portrait of Edouard Manet), W. M. Chase (288), and
George De Forest Brush (Family group). — Room 40. Munger Collection,yfiih.
paintings by Meissonier (174), Girdme, Michetti, MunMcsy, Troyon, Fromeniin,
and Faed. — Room 41 contains the Nickerson Collection of Japanese Bronzes,
Porcelains, etc. — Room 42. Xickerson Collection of Jades and Crystals;
also Modern French and American Paintings, including specimens of
Couture, C. H. Davis, Michel, Ribot,Wyant, ani Ifeal. — Room 44. Nickerson
Collection of "Water-colours and Engravings. — Rooms 43 and 45. Textiles
and Decorative Art. Room 45 also contains an 'Assumption by El Greco
(Tfiectocopult) and a Betrayal of Christ by Lucas Cranach the Elder. —
Hutchinson Galleet (to the left of head of staircase) contains the most
valuable works in the Institute, including examples of Rembrandt (^Portrait
of a girl; 1645), A. van Ostade (^Golden wedding), Jan Steen (Family concert),
Hobbema (*Water-mill), /. van Ruysdael (Castle), A. van de Velde (Meadow with
cattle), Frans Hals (*The artist's son, a late work), D. Tenders (Guard-room),
Terburg (Guitar-lesson), Rubens (Spinola), and Van Z»yc* (portrait). Thirteen
of the most important works in this room were bought in 1890 from the
famous DemidofF Collection at Florence. — Room 31. Modern Paintings. —
Room 33 contains the Arundel Collection of chromo-lithographic reproductions
of the works of the Old Masters. — Room 29 contains original drawings
for illustrations in the 'Century Magazine'. — Rooms 25-30 are occupied
by temporary exhibitions, varied from time to time. — Rooms 35 and 37
contain sculptures in marble and bronze, chiefly original, and other objects.
— Room 46. Porcelain and other pottery, medals, and small metal work. —
Room 47. Larger metal work, and the Rosenbaum Collection of ivory
carvings (ll-19ih cent.) by Italian, German, French, English, and Oriental
artists (16i pieces).
Farther to the N., on the opposite side of Michigan Ave., are the
buildings of the Illinois Athletic Club (PI. G, 3 ; ///), the * University
Club (PI. G, 3 ; III), and the Chicago Athletic Club (PI. G, 3 ; ///). At
the corner of Madison St. is the Montgomery Ward Building, -with, its
tower, and a little farther up, at the corner of Washington St., is
the *Chicago Public Library (PI. G, 3 ; ///), an imposing building in
a classical style, designed by Shepley, Butan, ^ Coolidge, and erected
in 1893-97 at a cost of $2,000,000. This fine edifice is worthy to
rank with the Library of Congress (p. 216) and the Boston Public
Library (p. 264). The main entrances are to the N. and S., in Ran-
dolph St. and Washington St. The interior is sumptuously adorned
with marble, mosaics, frescoes, and mottoes. It contains 350,000
volumes. On the first floor (N. end) is a large Memorial Hall, used by
the Grand Army of the Republic and covered by a dome; it contains
an interesting collection of Civil War and other historical relics.
In accordance with an agreement made with the Newberry and Crerar
libraries (see p. 378) the Chicago Public Library devotes itself chiefly to
the maintenance of a general reference collection, combined with a circula-
ing department of popular works.
On the N., Michigan Ave. ends at the Chicago River. Fort Dear-
born (pp. 369, 376) stood to the left, on the river, at the end of the
avenue (tablet at the corner of River St.).
The Chicago River (comp. p. 369), a narrow and uninviting - looking
stream, has a frontage within the city of nearly 60 M., of which one- third
City Hall. CHICAGO. 51. Route. 373
is navigable. The river is crossed by numeroTis bridges and undermined by
three tunnels, traversed by tramway-lines. The depth of the river is to
be increased from 16 ft. to 21 ft. or more, and the tunnels are now being lower-
ed to this end. As Chicago derives its drinking-water from Lake Michigan
(see p. 376), the disposal of the river- drainage was long a serious problem,
until solved by the construction of the •Drainage Canal, a wonderful feat
of sanitary engineering. This canal, completed in 1900 at a cost of
$43,000,000, begins at the S. branch of the Chicago River in Robey St.
and extends to (28 M.) Lockport (p. 400), where it discharges the sewage
of Chicago into the Desplaines River and so ultimately into the Illinois
River, a tributary of the Mississippi. This enormous sewer reverses the
natural course of the river, and is flushed by about 300,000 cubic feet of
water per minute drawn from Lake Michigan. The canal is also used by
shipping. — There is an external breakwater, 1 M. long, to shelter the
mouth of the river.
To see sometMng of tlie business-quarters of Chicago, we may
now foUow Randolph St. (see PL F, G, 3 5 III) to the W. to the *City
Hall and the *County Building (PI. F, 3; ///), two large adjoining
buildings. The latter has just been rebuilt by Holdbird ^' Roche in
a modern classical style with huge Corinthian columns, at a cost of
$5,000,000, and the former is alt^o to be rebuilt in a similar style.
On the groundfloor of the City Hall (N.) are the headquarters of the
Fire Department (1550 men) and of the Police Force (3600 men).
About V2 M. to the N. of the City Hall, in Dearborn Ave., between
Michigan St. and Illinois St., stands the Criminal Court and County Jail
(PI. F, 1), a huge and gloomy structure erected in 1896.
La Salle Stbbet (PL F, 3 ; III), leading to the S. from the County
Building, contains some of the finest office-buildings in the city.
Among these are the *Chamber of Commerce (14 stories ; PL F 3, III),
at the corner of "Washington St. (left) ; the Tacoma Building (13 stories ;
PL F 3, III), at the corner of Madison St. (left) ; the Y. M. C. A,
Building (13 stories; PL F 3, III), a Uttle farther to the S. (left);
the New York Life Insurance Building (12 stories; left; PL F 3, III),
the low but impressive Northern Trust Co. Building (right ; PL F 3, ///),
and the oddly shaped Women's Temperance Temple (13 stories; r.;
PL F 3, ///), all three at the comers of Monroe St.; the new
granite building of the Corn Exchange National Bank (17 stories;
r. ; PI. F 3, ///); the Home Insurance Co. Building (11 stories; L;
PL F 3, ///); and the *Rookery (10 stories; L; PL F 3, III), these
three at the corners of Adams St. (left). The interior (600 rooms)
of the last, lined with white marble, is worth inspecting, and visitors
should ascend by one of the 'express' elevators to the rotunda at the
top. Farther on in La Salle St., at the corner of Jackson Boulevard,
is the Illinois Trust ^ Savings Bank (left; PL F 3, ///), a massive
two-storied edifice, with a fine central court (worth visiting). Below
are the safety deposit vaults. At the end of La Salle St. stands the
granite building of the Board of Trade (PL F, 3, ///). Visitors are
admitted to the gallery (business-hours, 9.30-1.15).
Jackson Boulevabd (PL F, G, 3 ; ///) leads hence to the E. to
the ^Federal Building, containing the Post Office ^ Custom House
374 Route 51,
CHICAGO.
Business
(PI. F, 3 ; ///) and occupying an entire block. It is in the Corinthian
style, with a large central dome, 200 ft. in height, occnpied by the
Chicago III : Business Quartek.
U. S. Signal Service. The fonndations consist of hnge colnmns of iron
and cement, resting on the bed-rock. The Postmaster's Room contains
portraits of all the Postmasters of Chicago. — Close by are fiv very
Quarter. CHICAGO. 51. Route. 375
large buildings (16 stories): tlie Great Northern Hotel (Dearborn St. ,
Pi. n, F 3, III), the Fair Building (occupyino; an entire block; PI. F
3, ///), tbe *Marquette Building, opposite (17 stories; PI. F 3, 211') ]
the ^Commercial National Bank Building (Adams and Clark Sts. ;
19 stories; PI. F 3, III), and tbe Monadnock (Jackson Boul.; PI. F
3, ///). Adjoining tbe last is tbe Union League Club (PI. F 3; III).
Deabbokn Street (PI. F, 3; III), leading hence to the S., is
also lined with 'sky-scrapers'. To tbe right, at the corner of Van
Buren St., is the Fisher Building (18 stories), and opposite is the Old
Colony Building (16 stories). Faither to the S. are the Manhattan
and Monon buildings (16 stories; PI. F 3, III).
"We may now follow Van Bukbn Street (PI. F, G, 3 ; III) to the
E. (left) to State Street (Gen. PI. F, 2-8), at its intersection with
which are the large 'department stores' of Siegel ^ Cooper (PL
F, 3; ///) and A. M. Rothschild (PL F, 3; ///). Following State St.
to the left (N.), we pass tbe department store of Carson, Pirie, Scott,
^ Co. (PL F, 3; III), one of tbe most dignified business-structures in
Chicago; the Columbus Memorial Building (14 stories; PL F 3, III),
at the corner of Washington St. (right), occupied almost entirely by
physicians ; the Retail Store of Marshall Field <S' Co (PL F, 3 ; ///), tbe
Whiteley's of Chicago, extending from AVashington St. to Randolph
St. (r.; 1,520,000 sq. ft. of fioor-space; 8000 employees); and tbe
tall Masonic Temple (21 stories; PL F 3, III), at the opposite corner
of Randolph St. (r. ; view from top, 26 c).
Among other buildings of interest in this Business Qdabteb are the
Unitp Building (18 stories; PI. F 3, ///), Dearborn St., near Randolph St.;
the Tribune Building (PI. F, 3 ; III) at the corner of Dearborn and Madison Sts ;
the Rand- jilc.y ally Building, in Adams St., near La Salle St., a large publish-
ing and printing house (TOO hands; built almost entirely of steel); the
General Offices of the Chicago, Burlington, & Quincy Railroad (PL F, 3; ///),
Adams St., cor. Franklin St.; the ^fyJiolesale Establishment of Marshall
Field & Co. (PI. F, 8; ///), Adams St., designed by H. H. Richardson ('one
of the most individual examples of American commercial building'; in
it 'the vulgarity of the commercial palace is gratefully conspicuous by its
absence, and it is as monumental in its massiveness and durability as it
is grimly utilitarian in expression'); the Royal Insurance Co. (PL F, 3; ///),
Jackson BouL, nearly opposite the Board of Trade; the First National Bajik
Building (PL F, 3; III), cor. of Dearborn & Monroe Sts.; the American Trust
Building (18 stories), cor. of Clark St. and Monroe St (PL F, 3 ; ///), showing
a peculiar and interesting treatment of the sky-scraper; the Pullman Buildii.g
(PL G, 3 ; ///), cor. of Michigan Ave. and Adams St. ; the Ashland Block
(16 stories ; PL F 3, ///); the Schiller Building ( Garrick Theatre / PL F 3, ///) ;
the Chicago Opera House{PL F, 3; ///); the Grand Opera House (PL F, 3-, ///);
the American Express Building, by Richardson, in Monroe St., just to
the E. of Dearborn St. (PL F, 3; ///); the Majestic Building dk Theatre,
opposite (20 stories); the Eeyworth Building, S.W. cor. of Wabash Ave.
and Madison St. (18 stories); and the Cook County Abstract, iOO Wash-
ington Street.
The *Public Parks of Chicago, with a total extent of over
3000 acres, form, with their connecting boulevards, a nearly com-
plete chain round the city, and afford over 100 M. of driveways
within the city limits. A characteristic feature of the system is the
376 Route 51. CHICAGO. Public Parks.
large nnmber of small 'People's Parks'' scattered through the poorer
districts and provided with baths, gymnasia, playgrounds, and so
on. — On the N. side is Lincoln Park (see below), reached by tram-
ways on N. AVells, N. Clark, and N. State Streets. Walkers or drivers
should choose the route via *Lake Shore Drive (PI. G, 2; 7),
one of the finest residence-streets in Chicago, containing some very
handsome houses, including specimens of H. H. Richardson (not in
his happiest manner) and R. M. Hunt (next door to each other).
This passes near the Water Works (PI. G, 2 ; 7), at the foot of Chicago
Avenue.
The water-supply of Chicago, amounting to about 450 million gallons
daily, is derived from Lake Michigan by means of four systems of tunnels
communicating with '■Crihs\ situated 2-4 M. from the shore. Throughout
the city are ten principal pumping stations and an intricate system of land
tunnels, connecting with those in the lake. In all there are now 38 M. of
tunnel and 2U75 M. of mains in use.
The Lake Shore Drive ends on the N. at *Liiicoln Park (inset
plan, and PI. F G 1, /), which is at present 300 acres in area but is
being extended by filling in the adjacent shallows of Lake Michigan.
Among the attractions of this park are the conservatories, palm-house,
lily-ponds, and flov?er-beds; a small zoological collection; a fountain
illuminated at night by electric light; the statues of ''Lincoln (by Saint-
Gaudens), Orant (by Rebisso), Beethoven^ Schiller, La Salle, a Mounted Indian,
and Linnaeus ; and the boating lake. Near the main entrance is i)a.t Academy of
Sciences (open free daily, 9-5), containing admirably arranged and classified
collections illustrating the various natural sciences; one of the chief ob-
jects of interest is a mounted mastodon, 80 per cent of which is genuine.
Park-phaetons 20 c. per drive.
A ""Beach Carriage Drive has been constructed in the lake alongside of
Lincoln Park, whence it is prolonged by the Sheridan Boulevard to Fort
Sheridan (27 M.). The strip of water between this drive and the park ia
used as a regatta-course for small boats. The E. lagoon is crossed by a
high bridge. — Qraceland and Rosehill Cemeteries, also in the N. Side,
deserve a visit.
The S. Side parks are also fine. They may be reached by the
Illinois Central R. R., by the South Side Elevated R. R., or by the
Cottage Grove Ave. trolley-line ; but the best plan is to drive through
*Micliigan Avenue (PI. G, 4 ; /) and *Drexel Boulevards (PI. G, 6 ;
7i), two fine residence-streets, with tasteful houses and ornamental
gardens. Michigan Avenue also contains several churches, the
Calumet Club (cor. 20th St.), numerous large hotels and apartment
houses, and the First Regiment Armoury. In Drexel Boulevard is
the handsome Drexel Memorial Fountain by Henry Manger. We
may return by *Grand Boulevard (PI. G, 6; /i).
Prairie Avenue (PI. G, 6, 7; //) contains the residences of F. D. Armour,
the late Marshall Field (d. 1906), the late George M. Pullman (d. 1897), and
others of Chicago's magnates; but few of them are of architectural im-
portance, /. /. Qlessner^s house, by Richardson, being, perhaps, among the
most interesting. Adjoining the Pullman house, at the foot of 18th St., is
the Fort Dearborn Massacre Monument, a bronze group by Carl Rohl-Smith,
commemorating the massacre of 1812 (see p. 369).
•Washington Park (371 acres; PI. G 7, /i) and •Jackson Park
(523 acres; PI. H7,8, //) are connected by a wide boulevard known
•5Ar US'DflV,{l
■2S uu'oq_\.J.v dj
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University. CHICAGO. 51. Route. Sll
as the Midway Plaisance (park-phaetons, 25 c. each pers., children
15 c.-, PL GH 7, II).
Washington Park is notable for its fine trees, its flower-gardening, its
water-lily ponds, and its conservatory. At the entrance is an Equestrian
Statue of Washington^ by French and Potter. — Jackson Park was the main
site of the World's Columbian Exposition of 1893 (comp, p. 369), but nearly
all the buildings have been removed, and the grounds have been laid out
in public playing fields , drives , beaches , and groves. Piers have been
constructed for the use of pleasure-boats in the lake, and bathing
houses, gymnasia, and a casino have been erected. Bridges have been
thrown across several arms of the picturesque lagoons (electric launches,
etc.), and the Japanese Tea House on Wooded Island remains as a memorial
of the World's Fair. The reproduction of the Convent of La Rdbida has
also been left standing as a sanitarium for mothers and children. The
reproductions of a Viking ship and of the caravels of Columbus have also
been preserved. At the N. end of the park is the *Field Museum of Na-
tural History (open 9-4; adm, 25 c, free on Sat. & Sun.; Director, Mr.
F. J. V. Skiff), occupying the Art Building of the Columbian Exposition.
The museum was founded with a gift of $ 1,000,000 from Mr. Marshall
Field (p. 876), who also bequeathed $8,000,000 for a new building and
endowment. The museum contains natural history, anthropological, and
geological collections of great extent, interest, and value. American Ethno-
logy and Economic Botany are especially well represented, and the groups
of large mammals are admirable.
To the S. of Jackson Park are the house and grounds of the South
Shore Country Club.
McKinley Park., one of the small parks mentioned at p. 376, contains a
natatorium and a statue of President McKinley (1813-1901) by Chas. Mulligan.
The W. Side parks : Douglas Park (Gen. PI. D, 4 ; 180 acres), Gar-
field Park (Gen. PI. C, 3 ; 186 acres), and Humboldt Park (Gen. PL
D, 2; 200 acres) are little inferior to those of the N. and S. Sides.
The first has a good natatorium, and the second a beautiful rose-
garden, while Garfield Park has a water-court, a conservatory, a
statue of RohttTt Burns (by W. Grant Stevenson), and a boat-house.
The University of Chicago (inset-plan, and PL G 7, II), between
56th and 59th Sts., opened its doors in 1892 with 600 students and
is now attended by nine times that number. The total endowments
amount to about $20,000,000 or (including value of buildings and
equipments) $30,000,000, of which Mr. John D. Rockefeller has
given about $ 24,000,000. The ground acquired for the site of the
university has an area of 66 acres. The university includes faculties
of Arts, Literature, Science, Commerce and Administrati o n, Educa-
tion, Medicine, Law, and Divinity.
About thirty different buildings have already been erected,
mainly of limestone and in a Gothic style, from the designs of Mr,
H. I. Cdbh and Mr. Coolidge. Perhaps the most successful group is
that at the corner of 57th St. and Lexington Ave., including an As-
sembly Hall (No. 8 on inset-plan), a Studertts' Club House, the
University Tower (a shortened reproduction of Magdalen Tower at
Oxford), and the University Commons (resembling Christ ChurchHall,
Oxford). Other important buildings are the Cobb Lecture Hall(Pl. 10),
378 Route 51. CHICAGO. Newberry Library.
the Kent Chemical Laboratory (Jo), the Byerson Physical Laboratory (jo),
the Law School (16; inspired by King's College Chapel, Cambridge),
the Anatomy, Physiology, Zoology, and Botany Buildings (Nos. 1,
2, 3, & 4), the Walker Museum, the Haskell Oriental Museum (14),
the handsome Bartlett Oymna»ium, three dormitories for women and
five dormitories for men. The libraries contain 460,000 volumes and
165,000 pamphlets. On the S. edge of the Campus will stand the
Harper Memorial Library, an enormous Gothic building by Shepley,
Rutan, & Coolidge, to be erected in memory of President Wm.
R. Harper (d. 1907). The Yerkes Observatory at Williams Bay on Lake
Geneva (Wis. ; 91 M. to the N.W.), containing one of the largest
refracting telescopes in the world (40-inch lens, made by Alvau
Clark; tube 70 ft. long), belongs to the University of Chicago. —
Connected with the University is the large School of Education,
facing the Midway Plaisance, between Monroe Ave. and Kimbark Ave.
Among the original features of the University of Chicago may
bo mentioned the continuousness of its work throughout the year
(even in snmmer), with graduation ceremonies once a quarter; the
assignment of the two junior classes to the care of an independent
faculty; the separation of the sexes in the instruction of the junior
classes and their cooperation in the senior classes ; and the 'house'
system, under which groups of students become practically self-
governing under general supervision.
Among the other notable buildings in this district is the Black'
stone Branch Library, in a classical style.
The *Newberry Library (PL F, 2; J), endowed by Walter
Loomis Newberry (d. 1868) with $2,500,000 (500,000/.), occupies
a handsome granite structure in Walton Place, on the N. side of the
city. It is a free reference library, with noteworthy collections in
history, philology, and music (ca. 200,000 vols, in all). — The
♦John Crerar Library, established by a bequest of $3,400,000
(68O,O0OL) by John Crerar (d. 1889), is a free reference library of
scientific and technical literature (215,000 vols.). At present it
occupies temporary quarters on the 6th floor of the Marshall Field
Building (p. 375) ; but a permanent building is to be erected in
Grant Park (p. 371).
The Chicago Historical Society (open free, daily, 9-5; PI. F
2, 1\ one of the oldest institutions in the city (1856), possesses
numerous paintings, MSS., ami historical relics relating to Chicago
and the North-West; also a library of 50,000 books and 100,000
pamphlets. It suft'ered irreparable losses in the great lire (p. 369),
but now occupies a fire-proof edifice at the corner of Dearborn Ave.
and Ontario St., in which even the furniture is of metal.
The Churches of Chicago are comparatively uninteresting. Among the
most important are the R. C. Cathedral of the Boly Name, at the cor. of
Superior and N. State Sts. (N. Side); the Third Presbyterian Church, cor. of
Ashland and C^gden Aves. (Gen. PI. E, 3), with good stained glass ; the Church
qf the Epiphany, at the cor. of Ashland Ave. and Adams St., not far from the
Stockyards. CHICAGO. 51. Route. 379
last; the Second Presbyterian Church, Michigan Ave., cor. 20th St. (PI. F, G, 4;
I); the First Church of Christ, Scientist, Drexel Boul., near 40th St. (PI. G,
5, Q', II); the Fifth Church of Christ, Scientist, Madison Ave., cor. of 49th St.
(PI. H, 6 ; //) ; Flymouth Church Michigan Ave., near 25th St. (Gen. PI. F, 4) ;
Byde Park Baptist Church, cor. 56th St. andWoodlawn Ave. (PI. G, 7 •, II) ; and
Trinity Church, at the S.E. cor. of 26th St. and Michigan Ave. (PI. G, 4 5 /).
The interesting 'Medical District', in the W. Side, has for its nucleus
the large County Hospital, near which are the Rush Medical College (affiliated
with the University of Chicago ; 300 students), the College of Physicians and
Surgeons, the Presbyterian Hospital, the Illinois Training School for Nurses,
and the Chicago Homeopathic Medical College.
*Hull House (PI. F, 3;/), at ihe S.W. cor. of Polk and S. Halsted Sts.
is a social settlement of men and women {Miss Jane Addams, Head Resi-
dent), resembling Toynbee Hall (see Baedeker's London) in its purpose of
furnishing a social, intellectual, and charitable centre for the surrounding
district. It includes a tree kindergarten, a creche, a coflfee-house, a resi-
dential boys' club, a theatre, a labor-museum, and a free gymnasium, while
classes, lectures, and concerts of various kinds are held. Visitors welcomed
on Sat. & Sunday. — The Leteis Institute, founded and endowed by the late
Mr. A. A. Lewis and opened in 1896, comprises a School of Arts and a
School of Engineering, tuition in which is furnished at a nominal cost. —
The Armour Mission, at the corner of Armour Ave. and 33rd St. (PI. F, 5; /),
includes a mission hall, a creche, a library, a kindergarten, a free dispensary,
etc. The Armour Institute (president. Rev. Dr. F. W. Gunsaulus), a well
equipped institution for higher technical education, has been endowed by
its founders with $3,000,000.
In Union Pakk (PI. E, 3; /) is the Police Monument, erected to com-
memorate the policemen killed by the Anarchists with bombs on May 4th,
1886. The Anarchists executed for complicity in the bomb-throwing are also
commemorated in a monument at Waldheim Cemetery, 10 M. to the W. of
the City Hall (beyond Gen. PI. A, 3 5 Chicago Terminal Transfer R. R.).
Few travellers will leave Chicago without a visit to the famous
Union Stockyards (PI. E F, 5, 6; /). The yards ('Packingtown')
are in S. Halsted St., 51/2 M. to the S.W. of the City Hall, and may
be reached by the S. Halsted St. or Centre Ave. trolley-lines, both
rtmning directly to the main entrance at 4:1st St. Visitors are freely
admitted to the yards and will be shown round by a guide ; but it
is advisable to be provided with an introduction to one of the great
packing-houses. Tues. & Thurs. are the best days.
The yards proper cover an area of about 600 acres, have 25 M. of
feeding-troughs, and 20 M. of water-troughs, and can accommodate 75,000
cattle, 300,000 hogs, 50,000 sheep, and 5000 horses. The annual receipts
of cattle are between 3 and 4 million head, besides 7-8 million hogs, 4-5
million sheep, and 100,000 horses, with a total value of over 325 million
dollars. From two-thirds to three- fourths of the cattle and hogs are
killed in the yards, and sent out in the form of meat. About 30,000
workers are employed by the packing- houses, and the annual value of
their products, including canned meats, fertilizers, glue, butterine, etc.,
is about 320 million dollars. The processes of killing the cattle and hogs
are extremely ingenious and expeditious, and will interest those whose
nerves are strong enough to contemplate with equanimity wholesale slaughter
and oceans of blood. — The Stockyards contain a fair hotel {Transit House,
$ 2, R. from 75 c.) and have a bank and newspaper of their own. The
Transit Co. uses 30 locomotives in handling the livestock between the
yards and the difi'erent railway-lines and has !S5 M. of track. In 1907 a huge
International Stock Show was held at the Stockyards, when 4000 animals
from Europe and America were on view.
An interesting visit may be made to one of the large Grain Elevators,
of which there are about 40, with an aggregate capacity of nearly
30 million bushels. They are all situated on the river.
Baedeker's United States. 4th Edit. 24
380 Route 52. EVANSTON. From Chicago
A visit to Pullman (Florence Hotel, D. $ 1), 14 M. to the 8. of the
County Building, on the Illinois Central R. R. (3/4 hr.), may be included
by all who can spare half- a- day. Pullman was built by the Pullman
Palace Car Co., and is a model little town, artistically planned, scient-
ifically constructed, and consisting mainly of neat workmen's houses.
To the left of the tasteful station are the ^Pullman Car Works^ the various
processes of which are full of interest. About 150 Pullman cars, 500 ordi-
nary passenger-cars, and 12,000 freight-cars are manufactured annually,
with a total value ef 10-12 million dollars. The Pullman Car Co. now
owns and operates 2400 cars. Among the chief features of the town is the
Arcade, a building which includes shops, a tasteful theatre, and a library
(8000 vols.). The population of the town is about 12,000, most of whom
are connected with the Pullman Car Works. The town now forms part
of the 34th ward of Chicago.
Other favourite points for short excursions from Chicago, by steamer,
i-ailway, or electric cars, are Evanston (see below), Michigan City, St. Joseph,
Kenosha, Grand Haven, Kewawnee, Sturgeon Bay, South Haven, Ottawa Beach,
Lake Forest (see below). Highland Park (see below), Winnetka, etc. The
part of Indiana adjoining Chicago on the S.E., reached (e.g.) via (19 M.)
Indiana Harbor (p. 357), is said to be an excellent district for cycling and
motoring. — The Chicago Qolf Club has its grounds at (25 M.) Wheaton, on
the Chic. <fe N.W. Railway.
From Chicago to Baltimore and WasMngfon, see R. 49; to Buffalo, aee
R. 50; to Cincinnati, see R. 59; to Council Bluffs and Omaha, see R. 65; to
Kansas City, see R. 67; to Milwaukee, see R. 52; to New Orleans, see R. 93;
to New York, see R. 29; to Pittsburg, see R. 48 to St. Louis, see R. 58; to
St. Paul and Minneapolis, see R. 53.
52. From Chicago to Milwankee.
a. Vi& Chicago & North-Western Railway.
85 M. Railway in 2-3 hra. (fare $2.55; chair-car 35 c.). — An Electric
Railway runs, more or less parallel with this line, all the way to Racine
(fare 95 c. ; return $ 1.30).
Chicago [Wells St. Station), see p. 366. The line runs to the N.
along Ldke Michigan, passing many small stations forming suburban
homes for Chicago merchants. The lake does not come into sight
till beyond Waukegan. — As we leave Chicago we see the Deering
Works (p. 370} to the left. — 12 M. Evanston (Avenue House, $21/2-
31/2)5 "^itli niost of the buildings of the North- Western University,
a Methodist institution with 4000 students. Its schools of medicine,
law, and pharmacy are in Chicago. — 23 M. Highland Park (Moraine
Hotel, $3-6), a favourite resort of Chicago business-men; 25 M.
Fort Sheridan , a U. S. military post with a regiment of infantry,
two troops of cavalry, and two batteries of artillery. 28 M. Lake
Forest, another place with the pleasant rural homes of Chicagoans, is
the seat of Lake Forest College (200 students) and the Onwent-
sia Golf Club. 36 M. Waukegan , with 2 M. of 'Sheridan Drive'
(comp. pp. 376, 383). — 42 M. Zion City is the seat of the singular
religious community founded by John A. Dowie (d. 1907), which
is now more or less disintegrated. — A little farther on we enter
Wiscdnsin (the 'Badger State'), a fertile agricultural and lumbering
state, with numerous interesting Indian mounds and large deposits
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to Milwaukee. MILWAUKEE. 52. Route. 381
of iron. More preMstoric copper implements have been found here
than in any other state. A very large nnmher of the inhahitants are
of German or Scandinavian stock.
51 M. Kenosha^ with (1905) 16,235 inhab. and the large Pennoyer
Sanitarium ($ 3-5 ; seen to the right), is also connected with Mil-
wankee by an electric railway. — 62 M. Racine (Hot. Racine, $ 272-3 ;
Merchants, $2), with (1905) 32,290 inhab., has a good lake-harbour
and carries on considerable trade and manufactures (waggons,
buggies, farm implements, etc.).
85 M. Milwaukee, see below.
b. Via. Chicago, Milwaukee, & St. Paul Railway.
85 M. Railway in 2-3 hrs. (fares as at p. 3S0).
Chicago (Ganal St. Union Depot), see p. 366. This line runs nearly
parallel with that just described, but a little more inland. 9 M.
Mayfair; 16 M. Oolf, the seat of the Glen Yiew Golf Club ; 32 M.
Rondout; A^M.Wadsworth; 52 M. Ranney; 62 M. Corliss, for a
branch to (7M.) Racine (see above). — 85 M. Milwaukee.
Milwaukee. — Railway stations, i. Chicago & N. W. Railway
(PI. C, 3), at the foot of Wisconsin St. — 2. Union Depot (PI. A, B, 3), at the
junction of Third and Sycamore Sts., for the Wis. Central and C. M. & St.
P. railways. — 3. South Side or AUis Station (PI. B, 5), cor. Barclay St.
and National Ave., a subsidiary station of the C. M. & St. P. and the Chicago
& N.W. railways.
Hotels. Pfistee (PI. b; B, 3), Wisconsin St., cor. of Jefferson St.,
$1V2'3V2-, Plankinton House (PI. a-, B, 3), Grand Ave., cor. of W. Water
St., $21/2-5, R. from SlVz; Eepcblican House fPl. d; A, B, 2), cor. Cedar
and 3rd Sts., from $ 2V2, R. from $i; Schlitz Hotel (PI- c; B, 3), Grand
Ave., cor. 3rd St., with palm-garden, R. from $ i ; St. Chakles (PI. e ; B, 2, 3),
E. Water St., S2-3V2; Abeedeen (PI. f; A, 3), Grand Ave., $2-3; Kiebt
(PI, h: B, 3), Masoa St., cor. E. Water St., R. from 50 c.; Blatz (PI. g;
B, 2, 3), opposite the City Hall, E. from S 1.
Restaurants. At the Hotels; Blatz Hotel Restaurant, D. 50 c. ; The Gar-
goyle, 302 Grand Ave.; Pabst Theater - Caf 6 , German; Y. if. C. A. Coffee
House, 143 Fourth St. ; Wo'men''s Exchange, 415 Milwaukee St. ; Railway
Restaurants at the two main stations (see above). In the suburbs are
numerous pleasant Beer Gardens, in the German style.
Electric Tramways (fare 5 c.) traverse the principal streets and run to
the suburbs.
Cabs and Hacks. For 1-2 pers. for 1 M. or between the railroad de-
pots $ 1, for 2 M. $ IV2, above 2 M. $ 2, each addit. pers. 50 c. For the
first hour $ 1, each addit. hr. 50 c. ; with two horses $ 2 and $ 1. Baggage
up to lOOlbs. free; excess 15 c. per package.
Steamers ply regularly to Chicago (comp. p. 363) and to all the chief
places on the Great Lakes, and to various summer-resorts near Milwaukee.
Theatres. Alhamhra (PI. A, 3), cor. Grand Ave. and 4th St. ; Majestic,
Grand Ave., adjoining the Schlitz Hotel (see above; polite vaudeville);
Davidson's (PI. A, B, 3), 3rd St., near Grand Ave. ; Bijou (PI. B, 3), 2nd St.;
ShubertS (PI. B, 3), Milwaukee St.
Post Office (PI. C, 3), Wisconsin St. (comp. p. 382).
Milwaukee (580ft. above the sea), the largest city in Wisconsin
and one of the chief manufacturing and commercial centres of the
N.W., occupies a pleasant undulating site on the W. shore of Lake
24*
382 BouU52. MILWAUKEE. Federal Building.
Michigan, at the month of the river Milwaukee. An excellent iarbonr
has been formed by the erection of huge breakwaters, and the river
admits the largest lake-vessels to the doors of the warehonses. The
Milwankee receives two tributaries, the Menomonee and Einnick-
innic, within the city. The city is well built, largely of a light-
coloured brick, and many of its streets are lined with beautiful
shade-trees, recalling some of the older E. cities. Among the finest
residence -streets are Grand Avenue ("W. S.), Prospect Avenue,
"Waverley Place, Juneau Avenue, Marshall Street, and Astor Street
(E.S.). About two -thirds of the (1905) 312,950 inhab. are Ger-
mans, which may account for its successful cultivation of music
and art. There are no fewer than 75 musical societies in the city.
Milwaukee became a village in 1835 and received a city-charter in
1846. Its growtli has been rapid, particularly in the last 25 years.
The chief articles of its extensive commerce are grain, flour, coal,
lumber, hides, and the products of its great manuifacturing industries. The
leading industry is the making of iron, steel, and heavy machinery. The
flour-mills are very large (daily output ca. 9000 barrels), and the grain-
elevators have a capacity of 5V2 million bushels, Milwaukee lager beer
(Pabst, Schlitz, Blatz, etc.) is known all over the United States, and is pro-
duced annually to the amount of over 3^/2 million barrels (value $ 25,000,000).
Pork-packing is extensively carried on, and the other staple manufactures
include leather and tobacco (total value in 1905, $138,881,545).
Gband Avenue (PI. A, B, 3), which runs E. and "W., contains
many of the chief buildings and best shops, while Wisconsin Street
(PL B, C, 3) and East Water Street (PI. B, 2-4) are also busy
thoroughfares. Among the most prominent buildings are the
Federal Building (PI. C, 3), a handsome structure of grey granite in
a turreted baronial style, occupying the block bounded by Jefferson,
Jackson, Michigan, and "Wisconsin Sts., and accommodating the Post
Office^ Custom House, and U. S. Court House (interior finely finished
in marble, mosaics, mahogany, and oak); the County Court House
(PI. C, 2; view from dome), a brown sandstone edifice, in the square
bounded by Jefferson, Jackson, Oneida, and Biddle Sts.; the tall
Wells Building (P1.B,3), at the corner of Milwaukee and Wisconsin
Sts. ; the Chamber of Commerce (PI. B, 3), Michigan St. ; Plymouth
Church (PI. 0,2), a massive but unecclesiastical building at the
corner of Yan Buren and Oneida Sts. ; and St. PauVs Church (Epis. ;
PI. 0, 1, 2), Marshall St. The Auditorium (PI. A, 2), in Cedar St.,
can accommodate 10,000 people. — The Layton Art Gallery (PI.
B, 0, 3), a well-lighted structure at the corner of Jefferson and
Mason Sts., has some interesting pictures and statues (open daily,
except Mon., 10-4, Sun. 2-4 ; adm. on Wed. & Frid. 25 c. ; catalogue
10 c). The paintings include examples of Rosa Bonheur, Constable,
Corot, Millet, Achenbach, Alma-Tadema, Clays, Inness, Kensett,
Mauve, Holmberg, Pradilla, Mesdag, Munkacsy, Van Marcke, and
other modern masters. In the Sculpture Hall are works by Hiram
Powers andRomanelli. — The magnificent Public Library (PI. A, 3),
in Grand Ave., between 8th and 9th Sts., contains 200,000 vols, and
Breweries. MILWAUKEE. 52. Route. 383
a free mnsenm of natural history, palsBontology, etc. — The curiously
thin-looking City HaU (PI. B, 2), vdth one of the largest hells in
the world and an illuminated clock-dial (visihle for 2 M. at night),
occupies a triangular site bounded by E. Water, Market, and Biddle
Streets.
Other notable structures in the business district are the Germania
Building (PI. B, 3), at the convergence of W. Water, Wells, and 2nd Sts.,
said to be the best equipped building of any German newspaper in America;
the Evening Wisconsin Building, cor. Milwaukee and Michigan Streets-, the
Sentinel, 89 Mason St. ; the Ifew Insurance Building (PI. B, 3), cor. Broadway
and Michigan St.; the Mitchell Building, cor. Michigan and E. Water Sts.;
and the Pabst Building (PI. B, 3), cor. Wisconsin and E. Water Sts.
Among the public monuments are statues of Washington (Grand Ave.,
near 9th St. ; PI. A, 3) and Bergh, the philanthropist (in front of the City
Hall), and the Soldiers Monument^ at the cor. of 10th St. and Grand Ave.
* Juneau Park (PI. 0, 2, 3), laid out on a bluff overlooking Lake
Michigan, contains statues of Solomon Juneau (1793-1856), the
earliest white settler, and Leif Ericson (p. 268) ; it commands fine
views. Lake Park, farther to the N., also overlooks the lake. Near it
is the North Point Pumping Station, with a tall and graceful water
tower. A pleasant drive may be taken to the N. along the river
to (6 M.) Whitefish Bay (with concert-pavilion, pier , Ferris wheel,
and other attractions ; fare by trolley 10 c.) and (8 M.) Fox Point.
The *Forest Home Cemetery, at the S.W. corner of the city, deserves
a visit. The attractions of Washington Park, on the W. limits of the
city, include a large herd of deer.
Visitors to Milwaukee should not fail to inspect one of the great
Breweries, such as Pahst's (Chestnut St. ; PI. A, 2), which covers 34
acres and produces 1,000,000 barrels of beer annually, or Schlitz's
(Pl.B, 1) ; while the Orain Elevators, the Flour Mills, the Coal Docks
(with capacity for handling 4-5,000,000 tons annually), the Inter-
national Harvester Co. (comp. p. 370), and the workshops of the
C. M. ^ St. P. Railway will also repay a visit. — To the S. (Bay View J
are the Rolling Mills of the Illinois Steel Co., covering 154 acres of
ground. — To the S.W., chiefly in the valley of the Menomonee, are
the large Brick Yards that produce the light-coloured bricks which
give Milwaukee the name of 'Cream City'. — To the N., along the
Milwaukee river, are extensive Cement Works.
Sheridan Drive, skirting the lake to the S. for 2 M., is intended to be
prolonged so as ultimately to meet the boulevard of that name running from
Chicago to Fort Sheridan (see p. 376). — About 3 M. to the W, of the centre
of the city is the National Soldiers' Home, with accommodation for 2400 dis-
abled soldiers and a fine park of 400 acres. At Wauwafosa, Qi/zM. to the W.,
are the large County Hospital and the State Fair Orounds (electric car lines,
connecting with city lines ; fare 5 c). — One of the favourite resorts of
Milwaukeans is Waukesha (Fountain Inn, $ 3-5), a village 20 M. to the W.,
with well-known springs (Bethesda, White Rock, etc.), the water of which
(efficacious in diabetes and Bright's disease) is widely exported.
Milwaukee is an important railway-centre, lines radiating hence to
all points in Wisconsin. Those running to the N. and "S.W. reach Mar-
quette, Ashland, Duhith, and. other points on Lake Superior (comp. pp. 393-
396). From Milwaukee to St. Paul, see next page.
384
53. From Chicago to St. Paul and Minneapolis.
a. VIS. Chicago, Milwaukee, & St. Paul Bailway.
420 M. Eailwat to (410 M.) St. Paul in 12V2-13 hrs. and thence to (10 M.)
Minneapolis in ^l2-'^l\'hx. more (fare $8; parlor-car $1, sleeper $2). The
fast mail line of this service is the route via La Crosse, described below;
but some trains run via Madison and Prairie du Chien or via Dubuque.
From Chicago (Canal St. Station) to (85 M.) Milwaukee, see
B. 52b. The line now tnrns to the W. 99 M. Brookfield is the
jnnction of the line via Madison (p. 385) and Prairie du Chien (see
p. 386 and above), which diverges to the left. — 118 M. Ocono-
mowoc (Draper Hall, $3-55 Woodlands, $2i/2-3V2}> * favourite
summer - resort. — 130 M. Watertown (Commercial, $2), an in-
dustrial city on Rock River (good water-power) and the seat of the
N.W. University (Lutheran; 260 students) and the Sacred Heart
University.
Beyond Watertown our line runs to the N.W. 150 M. Columbus;
178 M. Portage City (Rail. Restaurant), a trading city with (1905)
5525 inhab., at the head of the navigation of the Wisconsin. 195 M.
Kilhourn City (Finch Ho., $2-21/2) is tlie starting-point for a visit
to the fantastic *Z)a^ies of the Tri8consm(comp.p.469). 240 M. Tomah;
257 M. Sparta. — 283 M. La Crosse (650 ft.; Stoddard, from $21/2;
Rail. Restaurant), a flourishing city of (1905) 29,080 inhab. on the
E. bank of the Mississippi, with large saw-mills.
We now cross the Mississippi, here V3 M. wide , enter Minne-
sota (the 'North Star State') , and ascend on the W. bank of the
river, through picturesque scenery (views to the right). — 307 M.
Winona (The Winona, $ 2-3), with (1905) 20,334 inhab., is one of
the most important grain-shipping points in the country.
Fkom Winona to Rochester, 50 M., 2forth- Western Railway in 2 hrs.
— Rochester (Kahler, $2V2-5; Cook, $2-3), a country -town with (1905)
7233 inhab., is famous as the seat of St. Mary's Surgical Hospital, conducted
by Dr. C H. and Dr. W. J. Mayo, which is annually visited by 15,000 pa-
tients from all parts of the world, most of them to undergo major opera-
tions. Many thousands of surgeons have also visited the hospital, which
is universally recognized as one of the foremost rank in every way.
340 M. Wabasha (HurdHo., $ 2) lies near the foot of the beautiful
expansion of the Mississippi known as *Lake Pepin (30 M. long and
3-5 M. wide). 3521/2 M. Lake City (Lyon, $2) and (359 M.) Fron-
tenac (Fronteuac Inn, $ 2) are two favourite resorts in this beautiful
district (comp. p. 428). 370 M. Red Wing; 390 M. Hastings.
410 M. St. Paul, see p. 388. — 420 M. Minneapolis, see p. 390.
b. Via, Chicago & North-Western Eailway.
421 M. Railway to (409 M.) St. Paul in 121/2-14 hrs. ; to (421 M.) Min-
neapolis in 8/4 hr. more (fares as above).
Chicago (Wells St. Station), see p. 366. The train runs to the
N.W., passing various suburban stations. 63 M. Harvard Junction.
Beyond this point some trains run via (91 M.) Beloit (important
MADISON. 53. Route. 385
college , with 380 students) , just inside the Wisconsin boundary,
and others, entering Wisconsin near (71 M.) Sharon, run via (91 M.)
Janesville (cotton and woollen mills; trade in locally grown tohacco),
re-uniting at (116 M.) EvansviUe.
138V2 M. Madison (845 ft. 5 Parle Hotel, $ 3-4 ; Avenue, $ 2-3 ;
Capitol, Sherlock, $2-272)? *^6 capital of Wisconsin, a pleasant
city of (1905) 24,300 inhab., situated between the beautiful *Lakes
Mendota, Monona, and Wingra. The State Capitol was partly de-
stroyed by fire in 1904, but has been rebuilt by G-. P. Post in the
form of a Greek cross, crowned by a well-proportioned dome. Housed
in the Capitol are the State Law Library (40,000 vols.) and the offices
of the Wisconsin Free Library Commission. The University of Wis-
consin, finely situated on two hills overlooking Lake Mendota, is at-
tended by 4000 students. Its observatory (thQWashburn Observatory')
is one of the best in America; its departments of history, economics,
geology, agriculture, and engineering are particularly well-equipped
and have national reputations. Opposite the campus is the build-
ing of the * Wisconsin State Historical Society, the most important
institution of the kind beyond the Alleghenies, which possesses a
reference library of 155,000 vols, and 151,000 pamphlets (its col-
lection of MSS. relating to the West being exceptionally important)
and a historical and ethnological museum. In the same building
are the libraries of the University (125,000 vols.) and the Wisconsin
Academy of Sciences, Arts, and Letters (6000 vols.}. Madison
has several pretty public parks and a system of attractive pleasure-
drives 35 M. long.
Beyond Madison we pass to the N. of the pretty Lake Mendota
(see above). 171 M. Devil's Lake, seen to the left; 176 M. Baraboo,
in an iron-mining district. At (213 M.) Elroy we diverge to the
right from the line to La Crosse (p. 384) and traverse a district of
pine-forests. Near (226 M.) Camp Douglas we see several isolated
rocks of fantastic (doubtless water-worn) formation. 299 M. Augusta.
321 1/2 M. Eau Claire, with (1905) 18,740 inhab., the junction of
the branch to Duluth (p. 393), is an important lumbering point at
the head of navigation on the Chippewa River. 345 M. Menomonie.
— 389 M. Hudson (Sanatorium, $ 15-35 per week), pleasantly
situated on the E. bank of Lake St. Croix. An excursion may be
made to the ^Dalles of the St. Croix. We now cross the St. Croix
and enter Minnesota (p. 384).
409 M. St. Paul, see p. 388. — 421 M. Minneapolis, see p. 390.
c. Via. Illinois Central Railroad (Albert Lea lioutej.
501 M. Illinois Central R. R. to (3S2 M.) Albert Lea; Minneapolis &
St. Louis R. R. thence to (490 M.) Minneapolis and (501 M.) St. Paul (15-16 hrs. 5
fares as at p. 384).
Chicago (Illinois Central Station), see p. 366. The train runs to
the W. through a rich agricultural district in the N. part of Illi-
386 Route 53. DUBUQUE. From Chicago
nois. The first station of importance is (87 M.) Bockford (The Nel-
son, $ 2V2-3V2)? a ^Tisy industrial city with 31,000 inhah., on the
Rock River. 114 M. Freeport (Brewster Ho., $ 2), on the Pecatonica,
with 13,260 inhab., manufactures huggies, hardware, machinery,
boots, and musical instruments. 166 M. Galena (De Soto, Grant, $ 2),
with 5000 inhab., was once the home of General Grant and is impor-
tant for its river-trade in lead and zinc. The train descends the
valley of the Galena and crosses the Mississippi by a long bridge,
184 M. Dubuque (600 ft.; Julien Ho., $ 21/2-^; Merchants, $ 2),
the chief industrial city of Iowa (p. 420], with (1905) 41,941 inhab.,
large railway - workshops, and the handsome Carnegie- Stout Free
Library. It is the centre of the lead and zinc industries of the N.W.
Yarious rivers are crossed farther on. 213 M. Dyersville; 276 M.
Waterloo, on Bed Cedar River, with (1905) 18,071 inhab. and various
industries. We follow the valley of the Cedar River. At (323 M.)
Charles City we cross the C. M. & St. P. Railway. Beyond (355 M.)
Mona we enter Minnesota (p. 384). — 382 M. Albert Lea (1230 ft. ;
Albert, from $2) is a thriving little city with (1905) 5657 in-
habitants. — 424 M. Waterville; 463 M. Merriam; 482 M. Hopkins.
490 M. Minneapolis, see p. 390. — 501 M. St. Paul, see p. 388.
d. ViS. Chicago, Burlington, & Quincy Bailroad.
442 M. Railway in 13-141/2 brs. (fares as at p. 334; free reclining
chair cars).
Chicago (Canal St. Station), see p. 366. 37 M. Aurora (650 ft. ;
Bishop Ho., $21/2-^), an industrial city with 24,147 inhab., claims
to have been the first to light its streets by electricity (1881) and
has the large workshops of the C. B. & Q. R. R. We diverge to the
right (comp. p. 421) from the line to Kansas City (p. 423), Omaha
(p. 418), and Denver (p. 471). 99 M. Oregon. We now follow the
tracks of the Chicago, Burlington, and Northern Railroad. From
(145 M.) Savanna (Rail. Restaurant) the line runs to theN. along the
E. bank of the Mississippi, affording numerous fine views to the left.
171 M. Galena Junction, for (4 M.) Galena (see above). At (185 M.)
East Dubuque, on the E. bank of the river, opposite Dubuque (also
reached by trains of this line), we enter Wisconsin (p. 380). — 239 M,
Prairie du Chien (620 ft. 5 Dousman Ho., $ 2-3; Commercial, $2),
with (1905) 3180 inhab., was a French military post in the latter
part of the 17th cent, and lies just above the mouth of the Wis-
consin Biver. 298 M. La Crosse (Rail. Restaurant), seep. 384; 326 M.
East Winona, opposite Winona (p. 384). Numerous small stations.
431 M. St. Paul, see p. 388. — 442 M. MinneapoUs, see p. 390.
e. Vi& Wisconsin Central Eailway.
475 M. Railway in 14V2-15V2 hrs. (fares as at p. 384; free reclining chair
cars). This route leads through the most productive white pine (Pinu$
Strobut) district in the world.
to 8t. Paul. FOND DU LAC. 53. Route. 387
Chicago (Illinois Central Station), see p. 366. This line mns
towards the N, 48 M. Oray's Lake (Hotel, $ 11/2) 5 5^ M. LakeVilla
(Hotel, $ 21/2)5 the station for (4 M. ; omn. 25 c.) the popular Fox
Lake (Mineola Hotel, $ 2^2)- ^e enter Wisconsin (p. 380) beyond
(58 M.) Antiocli. 100 M. Waukesha (p. 383). At (120 M.) Bugly
Junction we join the "Wisconsin Central line from Milwaukee (p. 381).
— 159 M. Fond du Lac (Palmer, $ 2-3; Erving, $ 2-21/2), a manu-
facturing city of (1905) 17,285 inhab., with a trade in lumber, lies
at the S. end of Lake Winnebago (30 M. long and 10 M. wide), the
"W. shore of which we now follow. 176 M, Oshkosh (Athearn, $ 2-31/2;
Tremont Ho., $2-21/2), a city of (1905) 30,575 inhab., with saw-
mills and factories, is the seat of the State Normal School and the
State Insane Asylum. At (189 M.) Neenah we turn to the left ("W.)
and leave the lake. 224 M. Waupaca (Grand View, $ 3), the station
for (4 M.) the attractive Chaino Lakes. 252 M. Stevens Point, on the
Wisconsin; 306 M. Abbotsford, the junction of a line running to
the N. to (132 M.) Ashland (p. 395); 360 M. Chippewa Falls, with
(1905) 9010 inhab. and a trade in lumber; 426 M. New Richmond.
465 M. St. Paul, see p. 388. — 475 M. Minneapolis, see p. 390.
f, ViS. Chicago Great Western Railway.
430 M. Railwat in 121/2-15 hrs. (fares as at p. 384).
Chicago (Harrison St. Station), see p. 366. The train runs at
first a little to the N. of W. 52 M. Sycamore; 126 M. Stockton.
We reach the Mississippi at (167 M.) Dubuque (p. 386). 197 M.
Dyersville (p. 386). At (240 M.) Oelwein (1040 ft.) we diverge to
the right (N.) from the main line to Kansas City (p. 423). From
(348 M.) Dodge Centre a branch-line runs to Mason City, the seat of
Memorial University.
420 M. St. Paul, see p. 388. — 430 M. MinneapoUs, see p. 390.
g. Vifi, Chicago, Rock Island, and Pacific Railway.
524 M. Railway to (514 M.) St. Paul in 153/4-16V4 trs.; to (524 M.)
Minneapolis in 3/4 hr. more (fares as at p. 384).
From Chicago to (222 M.) West Liberty, see R. 65c. Our line
now diverges to the right (N.) from the main line to Omaha and
traverses the great wheat-fields of N. Iowa. — 259 M. Cedar Rapids
(p. 419) ; 316 M. Cedar Falls. — Beyond (396 M.) Northwood we
enter Minnesota (p. 384). 434 M. Albert Lea (p. 386) ; 460 M. Fari-
bault, with an Anglican cathedral. — Our line now runs almost
parallel with the Illinois Central R. R. (see R. 53 c).
514 M. St. Paul, see p. 388. — 524 M. Minneapolis, see p. 390.
388
54. St. Paul and Minneapolis.
St. Paul and Minneapolis, the 'Twin Cities' of the "West, practi-
cally form one large city with ca. 500,000 inhab., though their centres
are 10 M. apart.
St. Paul. — Union Depot (PI. E, 2, 3; restaurant), on the river, at
the foot of Sibley St., used by all the railways.
Hotels, Eyan (PI. a; D, 2), cor. of Robert and 6th Sts., E. from $1V2,
with cafe-restaurant; Feedeeick (PI. f; C, 3), cor. of 5th and Cedar Sts.,
R. from $ iV2i well spoken of; "Abebdeen, cor. of Dayton Ave. and Virginia
Ave. (beyond PI. A, 2), from $31/2, R- with bath from $2, recommended
for a prolonged stay, Angus, cor. of Selby and Western Sts., another house
of the same class, $ 2V2-3V2i Meechants (PI. c; E, 3), cor. E. 3rd & Jackson
Sts., commercial, $2-3, R. from $i; Euclid (PI. b;C, 3), Washington St. ,
near 6th St., R. from $1; Magee's Bacheloes' Hotel, 383 Robert St., E.
from $1. A large new hotel (PI. d; C, 3) is building in St. Peter St.
Restaurants. 'Carting, cor. of St. Peter and 5th Sts.: Frernel, 383
Robert St.; Neumann, cor. 6th and Cedar Sts.; Delicatessen, 321 Robert St.,
near 4th St. ; at the Ryan and Frederick Hotels (see above). — Frog's legs
are a common item in the bills of fare at the restaurants of St. Paul and
Minneapolis, which are said to be the largest frog-markets in the world.
Tramways. St. Paul is traversed in all directions by an excellent
system of electric cars (fare 5c., incl. transfer to any intersecting line). —
Interurhan Electric Tramway to (10 M.) Minneapolis (three lines : 'Minnea-
polis & St. Paul', 'Como-Harriet', 'Selby-Lake'), starting at or near the
Ryan Hotel (fare 10c. ; I-IV4 hr.). — Electric lines also run from St. Paul
to various points in the environs. — A '■Sightseer Trolley Car (comp. p. 19)
rans in summer round the Twin Cities ('& M. for 50 c.').
Cabs. For 1 pers., 1 M. 50c., IV2 M. 75c., 2 M. $1; each addit. pers.
50c. for the whole hiring; per hr. $1, each addit. hr. 50c.. with two
horses $11/2 and $ 1. An understanding should be come to before starting.
Steamers ply to all points on the Mississippi (comp. p. 427).
Theatres. Metropolitan Opera Ho. (PI. D, 2); Auditorium {V\. B, C, 3);
Orpheum (PI. C, 3); Grand Opera House (PI. C, 3), 6th and St. Peter Sts.;
Majestic Theatre (PI. C, 2) ; Star Theatre (PI. D, 2).
Post Office (PI. C, 3), Washington St., cor. W. 6th St. (7-7; Sun. 9-10 a.m.) .
Consuls. British Vice-Consul, Mr. J. W. Robinson, 319 Manhattan Build-
ing; German, Mr. Johannes Grunow.
St. Paul (700-800 ft. above the sea), the capital of Minnesota,
is finely situated at the head of navigation on the Mississippi, mainly
on a series of terraces rising from the E. (or rather N.) bank. The
business part of the town is well-built and regularly laid out, and
the suburban quarters contain many fine streets and handsome resi-
dences. St. Paul is a great railway- centre , and by rail and river
carries on a large wholesale and retail trade. The total value of
its industrial products in 1900 was $ 38,500,000 (7,700,000^.). The
population in 1905 was 197,023.
The first white settler, a Canadian voyageur, built a house here in
1838, and in 1841 the place received its name from a chapel dedicated
to St. Paul by a French priest. In 1854, when it received a city charter,
it contained 3000 inhab., and since then its growth has been very rapid.
The traveller in St. Paul may begin his visit by ascending to the
top of the ^Pioneer Press Building (Pl.D, 2, 3), a 13-story building at
the corner of 4th and Robert Sts. (elevator). Another good view is
aty Hall. ST. PAUL. 54. Route. SSd
oWained from the dome of the Old Capitol (PL C, 2), still occnpled
by State offices.
The new * State Capitol (beyond PL B, 1), erected from the
designs of Cass Gilbert in 1898-1906, at a cost of $4,500,000, is a
large and handsome edifice of granite and Georgia marble, with an
nnnsnally successful central dome. The facade is crowned with a
bronze quadriga by D. C. French and E. C. Potter.
The most impressive part8 of the interior are the central rotunda
(142 ft. high), the two great staircases, the Supreme Court, and the Senate
Chamber. The dominant note in the colour-scheme is furnished by Minne-
sota yellow limestone. The mural paintings are by La Farge, Simmons,
Blashfield, Oarnsey, Kenyan Cox, and H. 0. Walker. In the Governor's
Reception Room are paintings by F. P. Millet, Howard Pyle, Douglas Volk,
and others. — The State Law Library (25,000 vols.) and that of the State
Historical Society (75,000 vols.) are both housed in the Capitol.
Four blocks to the S. of the Old Capitol are the Custom House
(PL C, 3) and the City Hall (PL C, 3) , the latter a handsome
building erected at a cost of $ 1,000,000. — Among other im-
portant buildings in the business - quarter are the Public Ldbrary
(PI. C, 2; 85,000 vols.); the Auditorium (PI. B, C, 3), a hall for
meetings and theatrical performances (10,000 seats) 5 the new T. M.
C. A. Building (PL C, 2) 5 the New York Life Insurance Building
(PL C, D, 2), cor. 6th and Minnesota Sts. ; the K. C. Cathedral of
St. Paul (PL C, 3), 6th St., cor. of St. Peter St.; the High School
(PL C, 1), cor. 10th and Minnesota Sts.; the Globe Building (Pl.D, 3),
Ith St., cor. Cedar St. ; the Germania Life Insurance Office (PL D, 3 ;
fine view from the roof-garden, occupied by the Commercial Club);
the former Benfe of Minnesota (PI. D, 2), now used for various offices ;
the Manhattan Building (Pl.D, 2), cor. of 5th and Robert Sts. ; the
Gilfillan Building (PI. D, E, 2); the Endicott Arcade (PL D, 2); the
Central Presbyterian Church (Pi. C, 2); the Bethel Hotel (PL D, 3),
resembling the Mills House of New York (p. 41) ; the Minnesota
Club House (PI. D, 3); the odd-looking People's Church (PL A, 3) ; the
Field, Mahler, ^ Co. Building (PL C, 3), 4th St. ; and the Great
Northern and the Northern Pacific Railway Offices (PI. E, 2).
The finest residence-street is *Summit Avenue (PL A, B, 1, 2), of
which Mr. Schuyler writes that very few streets in the United States
'give in as high a degree the sense of an expenditure liberal without
ostentation, directed by skill, and restrained by taste'. It begins at
Wabasha St. and runs from Summit Park (PI. A, 2) along a high ridge.
The most prominent dwelling is the large brown-stone mansion of Mr.
James J. Hill, President of the G. N. Railroad, containing a good col-
lection of paintings by Corot, Delacroix, Courbet, Troyon, Decamps,
etc. A Roman Catholic Cathedral is being erected at Summit Park.
From Summit Ave. the visitor may descend to the High Bridge,
a sloping bridge rising rapidly from the low N. (E.) bank of the
Mississippi to the high bluffs on the S. (W.) side. It commands
an excellent *View. — To the W. of the town, near the W. end of
Summit Ave., by the river, is the extensive Roman Catholic Seminary
390 Route 54. MINNEAPOLIS. Hotels.
of 8t. Thomas Aquinoi (comp. Map). On the bluff above, at the end
of Grand Ave. (parallel to Snmmit Ave.), are the varions buildings of
the Hill Seminary, founded by Mr. HiU (p. 389).
The Indian Mounds, at Bat/ton's Bluf, on the Mississippi, just to the
E. of St. Paul, command a fine view of the city and river. Carver^t Cave,
in the bluff, was named from Capt. Jonathan Carver, who made a treaty
with the Indians here in 1767. Below the bluffs, to the E., is a State Fisfi
Hatchery. — Lake Como and Gomo Park (with a famous lily-pond) lie about
31/2 M. to the N.W. of the centre of the city (tramway). — FhalenPark and
Lake are about the same distance to the N.E. (tramway). — Fort SnelUng,
a U. S. military post, lies on the W. bank of the Mississippi, at the junc-
tion of the Minnesota, 6 M. to the S.W. of St. Paul, and maybe reached
by electric tramway (5 c.) or by steamer. The ride to the Fort is uninter-
esting, except for the view from the High Bridge (p. 389). — The *Minnehaha
Falls (see p. 393) may be reached from St. Paul by electric tramway or by
river (steamers in summer). — The Minnesota State Fair is held in the first
week of Sept. in the extensive Fair Grounds to the N.W. of St. Paul (about
300,000 visitors annually). — The State of Minnesota is thickly sown with
lakes (7-10,000 in number, covering an area of 4160 sq. M.), and a number
of these are within easy reach of St. Paul. Among the largest and most
beautiful are White Bear Lake (10 M.; trolley, 15 c; see also p. 393), Bald
Eagle Lake (11 M.; see p. 393), and "Lake Minnetonka (20 M.; see p. 393).
From Wildwood., on White Bear Lake, the trolley goes on to (8 M.) Stillwater,
on Lake St. Croix (p. 385), with the State Prison (fare 15 c).
From St. Paul down the Mississippi to St. Louis and New Orleans, see R. 69.
Minneapolis (10 M.) may be reached from St. Paul by railway
(1/2 hr.) or by the Internrban Electric Tramway (p. 388 5 1 hr.).
Minneapolis. — Railway Stations. Union Depot (PI. C, 1; restaurant).
Bridge Sq.; Chicago, Milwaukee, & St. Paul (PI. C, D, 2, 3), Washington
Ave., also used by the Rock Island System and by the through-trains of
the Soo line; Minneapolis dt St. Louis Railway (PI. A, B, 1), Washington Ave.
and Fourth Ave. N. ; Chicago Great Western Railway, Washington Ave.
aod Tenth Ave. (beyond PI. A, 1); Soo Line Depot (PI. A, 1), for local
trains only.
Hotels. *Plaza (beyond PI. A, 3), cor. of Hennepin Ave. and Kenwood
Parkway, R. from $ 2V2 (accommodation for transient guests limited);
West Hotel (PI. a; A, B, 2), Hennepin Ave., cor. 5th St., R. $ 1V2-3;
Nicollet Ho. (PI. b; B, 2), Washington Ave., R. from $ li/z; The Holmes
(PI. c; A, 3), Hennepin Ave., $ 2V2-4, R. from $ 1; Majestic (PI. g; A, 3),
Hennepin Ave., cor. 7th St., R. from $1; Brunswick (PI. d; B, 2), R. from
75 c.; Vendome (PL e; B, 2), 4th St., near Hennepin Ave., R. from §1;
Htseb (PI. f; B, 2), cor. of 4th St. and Nicollet Ave., R. from 75 c. A large
new hotel (PI. h; A, 3) is building in 7th St.
Restaurants. At the hotels ; *Restaurant in Donaldson's Olast Block Store
(PI. B, 3); Scheik't, Third St. S., near First Ave.; Kaiserhof, 242 Nicollet
Ave,; Crombie, 16 Fifth St. S.; X>ayton''s^ Nicollet Ave., cor. 6th and
7th Sts. ; Dorner, 315 First Ave. S.
Tramways and Cabs as in St. Paul (see p. 388). The Interurban Lines
(p. 388) stnrt at the West Hotel. — Observation Automobiles, starting from
the West Hotel, make tours of Minneapolis and vicinity (fares from 50 c.
to $ 2V2 according to length of trip).
Theatres. Metropolitan Opera House (PL B, 2), 3rd St. ; Lyric (PL A, 8),
Hennepin Ave.; Orpheum (PL A, 3), 7th St.; Bijou (PL B, 2), Washington
Ave.; Auditorium, Nicollet Ave. (Iseyond PL A, 4; symphony concerts
fortnightly in winter) ; Mile* Theatre, 7th St.
Post Office (PLB,C,2), Third St. (7.30 a.m. to 9p.m. ; Sun. 10-11 a.m.)
; 7\ v.; % X^i ^ 11 '31 XII V ^ m i
o
Public Library. MINNEAPOLIS. 54. Route. 391
Minneapolis (800 ft.), tlie largest city in Minnesota and the
chief flour-making place in the world, lies on both banks of the
Mississippi, a little above St. Paul, at the point where the river
descends over the Falls of St. Anthony. The population in 1906
was 261,974, including many Scandinavians.
Minneapolis owes its prosperity and rapid growth to the extensive
agricultural district tributary to it, and to the splendid water power of the
St. Anthony Falls, with an available perpendicular fall of 50 ft., yielding
about 5O,O0U horse-power. The falls were named by Father Hennepin (p. 148)
in 1680, but it was not till 1846 that the village of St. Anthony, now included
in Minneapolis, was founded on the E. bank of the river. The settlement
on the W. bank, which received the name of Minneapolis (from minne, the
Sioux for water, and the Greek polis), was founded in 1856 and became a
city in 1867. In 1870 the population was 13,000, and in 1880 it was 46,000,
while the next decade showed an increase of 252 per cent.
Its Flour Mills, 20-25 in number, have a daily capacity of about 85,000
barrels and produce about 16 million barrels annually. Its Lumber Mills
yearly cut 600 million ft. of timber. The total annual value of its manu-
factures, which also include iron goods, machinery, street-cars, etc., is
about $140,000,000 (28,000 000 ?.). Its trade is also very large, the chief
import being grain (200,000,000 bushels) and the chief exports flour and
timber. The best shops are in Hennepin and Nicollet Avenues.
At the corner of Second Ave. South and 3rd St. stands the *ilfefro-
politan Life Building (PL C, 2), erected in 1888-90 at a cost of
$1,600,000. The roof (172 ft. high, tower 48 ft. more) commands
an excellent *View of the city (adm. 10 c). Adjacent is the Post
Office (PI. B, C, 2), in a Eomanesque style.
"We may now follow 3rd St. to the N.W. to Hennepin Avenue
(PI. A-C, 1-8) and turn to the left. To the left, at the corner of N.
5th St., is the imposing Lumber Exchange (PI. B, 2). To the right
are theWest Hotel (p. 390) and the Masonic Temple (PI. A, 3). At the
corner of 8th St. is the *Private Art Qallery of Mr. T. B. Walker
(open to the public from 8 till dusk), containing good specimens
of the British portrait-painters and of the Barbison school and also
works by or ascribed to Raphael, Michael Angelo, Rubens, Rem-
brandt, Van Dyck, Holbein, and Murillo.
Farther on, at the corner of 10th St., is the *Public Library and
ArtGallery (PI. A,3), a Romanesque structure, with an ornate facade.
The Library (190,000 vols.) and Reading Rooms (open 8.30 a.m. to 10 p.m.)
are on the first floor. Upstairs is the Art Gallery (10-12 & 1.30-6; Sun.,
2-10), containing pictures, casts, bric-a-brac, etc. Among the pictures
belonging to the Gallery are Be NeuvilWs 'Storming of Tell el-Kebir' and
examples of David, Lefehvre, Kaulbach, Ribera, Bohm^ Le Brun, Inness, and
Rosa Bonheur. Among the Baker 'Incunabula' are two that belonged to
Melanchthon. — On the second floor are the collections of the Minnesota
Academy of Natural Sciences. — The building also includes a School of Art.
Adjoining the Public Library is the First Baptist Church
(PI. A, 3, 4), opposite which is the building of the Y. M. C. A. At
the corner of 16th St. is the new Roman Catholic Cathedral.
Other prominent churches are the First Unitarian Church (PI. A, 3), at
the corner of Mary's Place and 8th St. ; the Westminster Presbyterian Church
(beyond PI. A, 4), Nicollet Ave. ; the Church of the Redeemer (PL B, 4); the
Fowler Methodist Episcopal Church, on Lowry Hill (comp. p. 392); the Second
Church of Christ, Scientist; Plymouth Church ; and St. Mark's Cathedral.
392 Route 5d. MINNEAPOLIS. Flour MUla.
At the other end of Hennepin Ave. is the Union Depot (PI. C, 1)
The bridge at its foot leads to the Nicollet Island (PI. C, D, 1). —
Among other prominent bnildings in the business - qnarter are
the *Coiirt House & City Hall (Pi. C, 3), a handsome building in
4th St., completed in 1902 at a cost of $ 3,000,000, with a tower
345 ft. high (* View of city) ; the New York Life Insurance Building
(PI. B, 3), 5th St. and Second Ave., with an elaborate interior; the
N. W. National Bank (PI. B, 3); the First National BarUc^iheAndrus
Building (PI. B, 3]; Donaldsons Glass Block Store (PI. B, 3); the
Security Bank Building (PI. C, 3 ; fine interior) 5 and the Chamber
of Commerce, 4th St. S. and Fourth Ave.
The Flour Mills of Minneapolis, perhaps its most characteristic
sight, are congregated on the banks of the Mississippi , near St. An-
thony s Falls (PI. D, 2 ; p. 391). Previous application will generally
secure admission to any of the larger mills.
Little is now to be seen of the Falls, which are 'cribbed, cabined, and
confined' by dams, retaining walls, and a huge wooden 'apron'. Among
the largest mills are those of the Washburn- Crosby Co., on the right bank,
with a production of 16,000 barrels a day. The Pillsbury A Mill (office in the
Metropolitan Life Building), on the left bank, with a capacity of 15,000 bar-
rels, is the largest single mill in the world (order necessary for visitors-,
morning the best time, as packers often stop work at 4 p.m.). The
Rust ell- Miller Mill (2500 barrels) is also worth visiting, especially at night.
Comp. p. 391. — The Grain Elevators, with a capacity of 40 million bushels,
are also interesting. The Union Elevator holds 2'/2 million bushels.
A visit should also be paid to the Lumber Hills, the operations
of which are of an extremely interesting nature.
The mill of the Bovey Be Laittre Lumber Co., 3 M. above the city
(Camden Place electric tramway), is a good specimen of a modern mUl,
cutting 25-30 million feet of timber yearly. The logs, each provided with
its owner's mark, used to be floated down the river and guided as far as
possible into their proper 'booms', but they are now largely brought by
railway. The logs which come by river are drawn up an inclined plane
into the mill by an endless chain with large hooks, passed under the
'gang' saw, and sawn into planks before they are well out of the water.
Among the various improvements in machinery, with the object of mini-
mizing the waste of sawdust, are the wonderfully delicate band-saws.
The University of Minnesota (comp. Map) lies on the left bank
of the river, between Washington and University Avenues. It
possesses various well-equipped buildings and is attended by 4400
students (both sexes).
Within the urban limits of Minneapolis are fourteen wooded
lakes, while the gorges of the Mississippi and the Minnehaha Creek
are very picturesque. These natural features have been made the
basis of a fine system of *Boulevards (35 M. completed), of which
the visitor should not fail to make a circuit by carriage (4 hrs.)
or automobile (IV2 l^r.; 4 pers., $ 6).
The first part of the Boulevard system, beginning at the Plaza Hotel
(p. 390), is the Kenwood Parkway, which runs towards the W., skirting
Lowry Hill and Mt. Curve, with many of the handsomest residences in the
city. It then leads to the S., up Kenwood Hill (view at corner of Mt. Curve
Ave., with glimpse of Cedar Lake to the right). The system next encircles
the Lakeof the Isles, Lake Calhoun, and Lake Harriet (band-concerts in summer.)
DULUTH. 55. Route. 393
JOn the N. side of Lake Calhoun two roads diverge for Lake Minnetonka
(see below)] From the S.E. side of Lake Harriet the road runs to the E.
along the Mtrmehaha Creek, passing Lake Amelia (r.), to (6 M.) Minnehaha
Park (also reached by electric car), containing the graceful -Falls of the
Minnehaha, 50 ft. high, immortalized by Longfellow. The smaUer fall
below has been nicknamed the Minnegiggle. On the opposite side of the
creek is the Minnesota Soldiers' Home (fine grounds). On the other side
of the railway and the electric line (which goes on to Fort Snelling, p. 390;
2 M.) IS the Longfellow Zoological Garden (adm. 10-15 c), with a statue of
the poet by Gewont. - From Minnehaha Park the boulevard runs to the
:n. along the Mississippi, connecting &t Lake Street Bridge (105 ft.; *View)
with Summit Ave. (p. ^89). At Franklin Avenue Bridge (95 ft.; view) it
crosses the river and ends at the University of Minnesota (p. 392)
The most delightful resort near Minneapolis or St. Paul is *Lake
Minnetonka (820 ft. above the sea), which lies 15 M. to the W. The lake
IS singularly irregular in outline, and with a total length of 12-15 M. has
a flhore-line of perhaps 150 M. It is surrounded with low wooded hills, and
IS lined with summer-cottages, some of them with beautiful grounds (best
at Ferndale, on the N. shore). It affords good boating and fishing. The
r /..'V^f^^^^^ by the Minneapolis <fe St. Louis Railway (S. shore), by the
Great Northern R. R. (N. shore), and by electric tramway (fare 25 c), con-
necting at^xceW or Wildhurst (S. shore) with steamers for all parts of
the lake (fare 10 c). Btg Island Park (free transfer from electric line)
contains a handsome pavilion and numerous amusements. The best hotels
T. n f ^'"^"./o'?? i^ ^■^^' "^ * peninsula of the S. shore (electric car), and
the Del Otero ($ 2V2-5), reached from Spring Park on the G.N. R. R. The Upper
Lake IS wilder than the Lower Lake, and also has hotel and boarding-house
accommodation. The Minnehaha (p. 392) flows out of Lake Minnetonka
J ^'^l?^ Minneapolis and St. Paul to Sault-Ste-Maeie, 505 M., if., St. P
'^^■ft'-\^^ij^^^yin 16 hrs. (fare $11.95; sleeper $ 3). - This line
Rn^Ar t 7?-^- ^^'^o^S^ Wiscomin and Michigan. Stations unimportant. -
ouo M. Sault-Ste-Marte, see p. 397.
55. From St. Paul to Duluth.
,, ^'^l ¥• ^oetheen Pacific Railway ('Duldth Shokt Line') in 41/2-71/3 hrs.
(fare $ 3; sleeper $ 150). - Other routes are the Eastern Railway of
iT^'l^n <(^l^<^i^^ori^^^ R- ^. System) and the Chicago, St. Paul, Minnea-
polls, ds Omaha Railway.
St. Paul, see p. 388. The district traversed is comparatively un-
interesting. At first we traverse fields of Indian corn and afterwards
tracts of forest. Soon after leaving St. Paul we pass between (12 M )
White Bear Lake (to the right) and (13 M.) Bald Eagle Lake (to the
left), two summer-resorts of the citizens of St. Paul (good hotels).
25 M. Forest Lake is a similar resort. From (63 M.) Pine City a
smaU steamer follows the Snake River to (4 M.) Lake Pokegama.
152 M. Duluth (610 ft. ; '^Spalding Hotel, R. from $1 : St. Louis,
I ' R. from $1; Lenox, $2-3, R. from $1; McKay, $2-21/2,
R. from $1), ambitiously termed the 'Zenith City of the Unsalted
beas', IS finely situated on a bay at the W. end of Lake Superior,
at the mouth of the St. Louis River, and contained 64,942 inhab. in
In 18b0 Duluth contained only 80 white inhabitants, and
even m 1885 it had only 3470; it owes its rapid increase to its
situation at the head of the navigation of the Great Lakes, to its
394 Route 55. DULUTH.
abundant water-power, and to its extensive railway - connections
witli tlie ricli agricultnral states of the West and tlie iron regions to
the N. (see below). It has a large harbour, entered by a short canal
(crossed by an ingenious aerial bridge, 135 ft. high and 394 ft. in
span) and lined with docks and warehouses, and carries on a very
large trade in grain, iron ore, and lumber.
The annual receipts of grain at Duluth amount to 85 million bushels.
About 45,000 vessels enter and clear its harbour annually, bringing coal
(7,000,000 tons yearly, including Superior) and taking away flour and iron
ore. The mills in the Duluth district produced 827 million feet of lumber
in 1906. Its manufactures include flour, steel and iron (U. S. Steel Cor-
poration), logging and dredging macLinery, beer, and matches.
Ski-running is a favourite pursuit at Dtduth, and a jump of 117 ft. was
made by John Mangseth at the Chester Creek Hill Slide on Feb. i6th, 1908.
A great part of Duluth is well and substantially built. Among
the most prominent buildings are the new Court House^ the Schools
(especially the Central High School and State Normal School)^ the
Carnegie Public Library (50,000 vols.), the First National Barik,
the Lyceum Theatre^ the Board of Trade, the Sellwood, Lonsdale,
Torrey, Wolvin, and Providence Buildings, the buildings of the
Y. M. C. A. and Y. W. C. A. , St. Luke's Hospital, the Marshall Wells
Hardware Co., and the Patrick Dry Goods Co. — The ^Boulevard
Drive, on the terrace at the back of the town (an old beach-line of
Lake Superior), 4-500 ft. above the lake, affords splendid views
of the town and lake (brakes twice daily from Spalding Hotel,
fare $ 1). Lester Park lies to the E. and Lincoln Park to the "W.
From Duluth to Toweb and Ely, 117 M., Duluth d: Iron Range R. R-
in 5hrs. — This line runs to the N.E.. along the shore of Lake Superior,
to the iron-shipping port of (27 M.) Two Harbors (4400 inhab. in 1905),
and then strikes inland (N.W.), running through a district studded with
small lakes (shooting and fishing). — From (73 M.) Allen Junction a branch
line runs to (27 M.) Eveleth (5330 inhab. in 1905), in the Metabi Range (see
below). — 98 M. Tower (1340 inhab. in 1905) , on Lake Vermilion, is the
starting-point of the route (stage and road) to the Rainy Lake Gold Fields
(through-fare from Duluth $ 10). — The railway turns to the E. and runs
through the Vermilion Range (seebelow) to (117 M.) Ely, a small mining
town with (1905) 4045 inhabitants.
Fkom Duluth to Mountain Ibon and Hibbing, 84 M., Duluth, Missdbe,
& Northern Railway in 3V4-3V2 brs. — This line runs towards the N. — 31 M.
Culver, for Stony Brook; 66 M. Iron Junction, for lines to Eveleth (see above),
Biwabik, etc. — At (68 M.) TFoZ/the railway trifurcates, the arm to the right
going to (74 M.) Virginia, that in the middle to (75 M.) Mountain Iron,
and that to the left to (84 M.) Hibbing (6565 inhab. in 1905), three mining
camps in the Mesabi Range (see below).
The two railways just described give access to the important mining
district of the Mesabi and Vermilion Ranges, which annually produce
about 30 million tons of high-grade iron ore (red hematite). In 1907 the
Lake Superior Iron Region, which also includes the Marquette, Gogebic,
and Menominee districts (comp. p. 395), produced 42,000,000 tons of iron.
Lake Superior ore is said to excel even the best Swedish ores in purity,
ease of working, and high content of metallic iron.
From Virginia (see above) the Duluth, Rainy Lake, ^Winnipeg Railway
runs to the N. to (ca. 170 M.) Rainy Lake (comp. Baedeker^s Canada).
56. Route. 395
56. From Duluth to Sault-Ste-Marie.
a. By Bailway.
416 M. Ddluth, South Shobe, & Atlantic Railwa in 17 hrs. (fare $ 12;
sleeper $2.50).
Duluth^ see p. 393. We cross a drawbridge, with St. Louis Bay^
into which the St. Louis flows, to the right, and Duluth Harbour to
the left, and enter Wisconsin (p. 380}. — 5 M. West Superior, -with grain
elevators (one holding 6,000,000 bushels) and ship-building yards,
including those of the famous 'whaleback' steel ships; 9 M. Superior
(Superior, $ 2-31/2, R. from $ 1 ; 36,550 inhab. in 1905, incl. W.
Superior), with a large trade in flour, timber, and coal. — Our line
runs to the E., a little to the S. of Lake Superior (p. 396).
50 M. Iron River. — 72 M. Bibon (965 ft.) is the junction of a line
to (22 M.) Ashland (^Hotel Knight, $ 21/2-31/25 Chequamegon, $2-3;
14,520 inhab. in 1905), the shipping -port for the rich hematite
Bessemer ore of the Gogebic Range (3,000,000 tons yearly). Beyond
(104 M.) Saxon we pass from Wisconsin to Michigan (p. 357). 128 M.
Thomaston (Rail. Restaurant). Lake Oogebic (1330 ft.) lies to the
right, 15 M. farther on. 192 M. Sidnaw. — 215 M. Nestoria (1650 ft.)
is the junction of a line to (49 M.) Houghton (p. 396), giving access
to the valuable copper mines in the peninsula of Keweenaw.
The largest of these is the famous Calumet and ffecla, one of the most
remunerative mining properties in the world. It has already paid about
$ 60,000,000 (12,000,000 Z.) in dividends, and its annual profit is now about
$ 4,000,000. The number of miners is 4000. Its l?o. 4 shaft, 8100 ft. deep,
is the deepest inclined shaft in the world, and its Red Jacket Shaft
(4920 ft.) is the deepest vertical shaft next to one (18 ft. deeper) at the
Tamarack Mine. The total annual product of copper in this district (which
includes the towns of Hancock, Calumet, etc.) is about 150 million pounds.
223 M. Michigamme (1685 ft.), with the lake of that name to the
right. The numerous mineral trains we meet bear witness to the
richness of the iron-yielding land we are traversing. Our line now
begins to descend rapidly. — 246 M. Ishpeming (11,625 inhab. in
1905) and (249 M.) Negaunee (1440 ft.; 6795 inhab. in 1905) are
the two chief places of the important mining district of the
Marquette Range, which annually produce about 4,000,000 tons of
iron, besides gold, silver, and marble.
About 30 M. to the S. is the Menominee Range, another important iron
district (output ca. 5,000,000 tons).
261 M. Marquette (600 ft.; Marquette, $21/2-3; Cliftm, $2-3;
Rail. Restaurant}, named from Pere Marquette, the French mission-
ary and explorer (of whom a statue has been erected), is a city of
(1905) 10,665 inhab., situated on Iron Bay, on the S. shore of Lake
Superior, and forming the chief outlet for the great iron district of
Michigan. The huge iron docks and wharves are seen to the left.
Presque Isle Park has beautiful walks and drives.
The train now commands glimpses of Lake Superior from time
to time, but beyond (291 M.) Aw Train runs more inland, through
Baedeker's United States. 4th Edit. 25
396 Route 56. LAKE SUPERIOR. From Ihiluth
a heavily timbered region afifcrding no views. — 299 M. Munising
Junction, for the short hranch-line to Munising, a small lake-port
with an iron-fnrnace (comp. p. 397). — 369 M. Soo Junction, for a
liRQ to (4:3 MJ) St. Ignace (p. 362). As we approach Sault-Ste-Marie
we skirt the St. Mary^s River (left; p. 397).
416 M. Sault-Ste-Marie, see p. 397.
b. By Steamer.
436 M. Steamers of tlie Northern S. S. Co. weekly in 321irs. (inclusive
fare, with inside berth, $12.50; fare alone $8V2, berth $2-3, meals a la
carte); of the Anchor Line once or twice weekly in 2V2 days (inclusive fare
$ 15). Regulations similar to those mentioned at pp. 364, 365.
Lake Superior (600 ft. above the sea) is the largest body of fresh
water on the globe, being 380 M. long, and 160 M. wide at its widest
part, with an area of about 31,500 sq. M. The mean depth is abont
900 ft. The lake receives the waters of 200 streams and contains
numerous islands, chiefly near its E. and W. ends. Its coast-line (ca.
1500 m.) is irregular and generally rock-bound, some of its cliffs
and mountains being very picturesque. The water is clear and very
cold even at midsummer. Lake Superior whitefish (Coregonus clupei-
formis) are excellent, and other varieties of flsh are also abundant.
Duluth, see p. 393. The steamer steers towards the E. and threads
its way among the Apostle Islands (ca. 25 in all), near the coast.
80 M. Bayfield (Parks Hotel, $2), a seaside-resort, connected
by railway and small steamer with Ashland (p. 395). About 50 M.
farther on Porcupine Mt. (2025 ft.) rises conspicuously, and 20 M.
beyond it lies Ontonagon. The steamers are saved the long detour
round Keweenaw Point by passing through Portage Lake (20 M. long,
1/2-2 M. wide) and the ship-canal in connection with it.
200 M. Houghton (Douglas House, $ 21/2-^), with (1905) 4345
inhab., lies on the S. bank of Portage Lake, in a rich copper district
(comp. p. 395). It is the seat of the Michigan College of Mines.
On the opposite bank (i/o M. off) lies the sister-town of Hancock
(Hotel Scott, from $21/2). On emerging from the Portage Entry,
the steamer crosses Keweenaw Bay and steers S.E. by E., passing
Point Ahhaye, the Huron Islands, Big Bay Point, and Granite Island.
280 M. Marquette, see p. 395.
About 45 M. beyond Marquette the steamer passes Grand Island
and then, if the weather permits, approaches as near shore as pos-
sible to afford a view of what is considered the finest piece of scen-
ery on the trip, the so-called *Pictured Eocks.
These rocks are a series of sandstone bluffs, 300ft. high, extending
along the shore of Lake Superior for a distance of 5 M. and worn by
frost and storm into the most fantastic and romantic forms. They owe
their name to the vivid hues — red, blue, yellow, green, brown, and
gray — with which they are stained. Cascades fall over the rocks at
intervals. Among the chief points (named from W. to E.) are Miner's
Castle, Sail Rock (like a sloop in full sail), the Grand Portal, and the
Chapel. Those who wish to examine the Pictured Rocks satisfactorily
to Sault-Ste-Marie. SAULT-STE-MARIE. 56. .Route. 397
should disembark at Marquette, proceed by railway to Munising (p. 396),
and there hire a small boat. This is the heart of the Hiawatha country,
and Munising occupies the site of the 'Wigwam of Nokomis".
About 20 M. farther on th.e steamer passes Point au Sable (liglit-
honse), 60 M. beyond -which, it rounds Whitefish Point (lighthouse)
and steers to the S.E. across Whitefish Bay towards the mouth of
the St. Mary's River. This river or strait, which connects Lake
Superior with Lake Huron (comp. p. 366), is about 65 M. long and
has several islands and lake-like expansions. In entering it we pass
through Waiska Bay^ with Iroquois Point to the right (U. S.) and
6roa Cap to the left (Canada). The St. Mary Rapids are avoided
by a ship-canal, adjoining which lies the town of (436 M.) Sault-
Ste-Marie^ generally pronounced 'Soo St. Mary' (see below).
The old *St. Mary's or Soo Ship Canal was constructed by the State
of Michigan in 1853-55 and was 1800 yds. long, 100 ft. wide, and 12ft. deep,
with two locks, each 350ft. long. The present canal, constructed by the
U. S. Government, is 2330 yds. long, 108 ft. wide at its narrowest part (the
movable dam), and 16 ft. deep. Its original lock (Weitzel Lock) is 515 ft.
long, 80 ft. wide, and 39^/2 ft. deep. It has a lift of 18 ft. and can hold
two large lake -steamers. The total cost of the canal enlargement was
$2,150,000. Even this, however, proved inadequate for the increasing
traffic, and an enormous new lock (Poe Lock), on the site of the two old
locks of 1855, was opened in 1896, having a length of 800ft., a breadth of
100 ft., and a depth of 43V4 ft. It can accommodate vessels drawing 20 ft.
The cost of this new lock and the accompanying enlargement of the
canal was about $ 5,000,000. The lock can be filled and emptied in
7 minutes. Another new lock, 1350 ft. long and 80 ft. wide, is now in
progress. A large Obelisk (60 ft. high) has been erected to commemorate the
construction of the canal. — A Ship Canal, IVs M. long, has also been
constructed on the Canadian side of the river (see Baedeker's Canada).
The annual tonnage of the vessels passing through the Soo Canal is three
times as great as that passing through the Suez Canal. In 1907 the canal
(including the Canadian channel) was passed by 20.437 vessels with an
aggregate tonnage of 44,087,094 tons (Suez Canal 14,728,434 tons).
Sault-Ste-Marie (615 ft.; Iroquois^ $3-5; Park^ $3-5; Manitou^
$ 2; Rail. Restaurant)^ a thriving little city with (1905) 11,440 inhab.,
originated in a French mission established here in 1641. Its position
on the Soo Canal and at the convergence of several railways gives
it a considerable commercial importance, while its huge chemical
and other works show its growing industrial importance. Enormous
water-power has been developed fromtheRapids (seebelow). Among
the chief buildings are the Custom House (PI. 1), the Post Office
(PL 2), the City Hall (PL 4), the Carnegie Library (PI. 6), and the
Court House (PI. 5). To the W. lies Fort Brady, a U. S. military
post (comp. Plan). The St. Mary's River is crossed here by the fine
bridge of the Canadian Pacific Railway. Steam-ferries cross to the
Canadian Sault-Ste-Marie (Algonquin Ho., from $2; pop. 7169).
One of the things to 'do' at the Soo is to shoot the Rapids in a canoe
guided by an Indian, an exciting but reasonably safe experience (inquire
at hotels). There is good trout-fishing above the Rapids and in the neigh-
bouring streams, and the Indians catch whitefish with scoop nets below
the Rapids. — The island of Mackinac (p. 362) is easily reached from the
Soo. — From Sault-Ste-Marie to Buffalo by steamer, see R. 50e.
Four-horse coaches meet some of the steamers for a drive round the
'Soo' (fare $ 1).
25*
398
57. From St. Paul to Winnipeg.
a. VIS. Breckenridge.
488 M, Great Xoethern Railway in 14 bra. (fare $ 10; sleeping car
$ 3). Througli-tickets are issued to points on the Pacific Coast over this
route ('Manitoba-Pacific Eoute') in connection with the Canadian Pacific
Railway (comp. Baedeker's Canada).
St. Paul and (11 M.) Minneapolis, see R. 54. Onr train now runs
to the N.W. through the beautiful Lake Park District of Minnesota,
thickly sprinkled with lakes (comp. p. 390). From (23 M.) Wayzaia,
at the E. end of Lake Minnetonka (see p. 393), a branch-line runs
to Hotel Del Otero (p. 393) and (7 M.) Spring Park. Numerous small
stations are passed , in a thriving farming district. 76 M. Litchfield
(Howard, $2), a summer-resort on Lafee Ripley. — 102 M. Willmar is
the junction of a line to (147 M.) Sioux ('Soo') Falls (Cataract Ho..,
$21/2-31/2), in -SoMffe Dakota ('Coyote State'), and (225 M.) Sioux
City {Hot. Oarretson, R. from $ 1 ; Mondamin, $2-31/2)) in Iowa.
The first of these has a large water-power from the Big Sioux River
and contains (1905) 12,285 inhab. and extensive flour-mills. It is the seat
of the Dakota Penitentiary and the State Deaf and Dumb Institute. — Sioux
City is an important manufacturing centre with (1905) 40,950 inhab., a large
foundry, and several pork and beef packing houses.
From (132 M.) Benson a line runs to Watertown and Huron.
Other lines diverge to the W. and E. at (192 M.) Tintah Junction
and (197 M.) Yarmouth. At (214 M.) Breckenridge we reach the
Red River (p. 399) , which we cross to (215 M.) Wahpeton (960 ft. ;
2740 inhab. in 1905), in North Dakota.
Two lines of the G. N. Ry. ascend the Red River Valley (p. 399),
one on each side of the river. Through-trains generally follow that on
the W. bank, which they reach on crossing from (260 M.) Moorhead
(p. 439) to (261 M.) Fargo (900 ft.; p. 439), where the G. N. Ry.
intersects the Northern Pacific R. R. (R. 71). Fine fields of wheat
are passed. — 339 M. Grand Forks (830 ft.; Northern, $2-21/2;
Dacotah^ $2-4), with (1905) 10,125 inhab., large lumber miUs, and
the State University of North Dakota (1000 students), is the junction
of the G. N. R. line to Montana described in R. 70. — 419 M. Neche, on
the 49th parallel of N. lat., is the last station in the United States, and
(420 M.) Gretna is the first in Canada (custom-house examination).
We now run over the tracks of the Can. Pacific Railway, through
a district peopled with Scots, French half-breeds, and Mennonites.
488 M. Winnipeg (*Royal Alexandra, Queen's, Empire, etc.),
see Baedeker's Handbook to Canada.
b. Via. Fergus Falls.
458 M, Great Northern Railway in 14 hrs. (fares as above).
St. Paul and (10 M.) Minneapolis, see R. 54. The train ascends
on the W. bank of the Mississippi. 24 M. Osseo; 33 M. Rogers;
48 M. Monticello. — At (75 M.) St. Cloud (1030 ft.; Grand Central,
RED RIVER VALLEY. 57. Route. 399
$2), a city of (1906)9420 inhab., with large granite quarries, the line
from St. Paul unites with that from Duluth (p. 393). It is also the
junction of a line to Willmar (p. 398). — Farther on we pass through
a country so thickly sprinkled with lakes that the line has often
had to he led across them on trestles. From (117 M.) Sauk Centre
a branch-line runs to the N. to (140 M.) Cass Lake. 130 M. Osakis
(Idlewild, Lake Ho., $2), on the pretty lake of that name; 141 M.
Alexandria (Letson, Geneva Beach Ho., $2), a summer-resort, with
good fishing and shooting; 170 M. Ashby (Hotel Kittson, $21,2)- At
(187M.) Fergus -PaZfo (Grand, $2),with (1905) 6B90 inhab., the descent
of the infant Red River is used by mills and factories. We now
run through the interminable wheat-fields of the fertile Red River
Valley, one of the great wheat-growing regions of the world, its crop
often amounting to 50 million bushels. Numerous grain-elevators
are seen. 217 M. Barnesville. Our line keeps to the right (N.). —
235 M. Glyndon (p. 439) ; 299 M. Crookston (see below). We are here
joined by the line running via Moorhead (see p. 398). — At (392 M.)
Emerson we enter Canada. — 458 M. Winnipeg, see p. 398.
c. Vi& Crookston and Pembina.
482 M. NoRTHEKN Pacific Railway in ITVa brs. (fares as at p. 398).
From St. Paul to (224 M.) Winnipeg Junction, see p. 438. Our
line here diverges to the right from the main line (R. 71) and runs
to theN.W. through Red River Valley (see above). — 293 M. Crookston
(p. 434); 320 M. Grand Forks (p. 39S); 369 M. Grafton. Beyond
(414 M.) Pembina we enter Canada. Hence to (482 M.) Winnipeg,
see Baedekefs Handbook to Canada.
58. From Chicago to St. Louis.
a. Vi^ Illinois Central Railroad.
293 M. Railway in 8-9V4 trs. (fare $7.50; sleeper $2, parlor-car $1,
reclining chair car free; library-car on best trains, with books and maga-
zines).
From Chicago to (56 M.) Kankakee, see p. 401. Our line crosses
the Kankakee River and runs towards the S.. through an ocean of
maize or Indian corn. At (80 M.) Gilman the St. Louis train di-
verges to the right (S.W.) from the through-line to Centralia, Ful-
ton, and New Orleans (see R. 93). 123 M. Laurette, the junction
of a cross -line to Rantoul (p. 588). At (148 M.) Clinton (Magill
Ho., $11/2-2) a branch-line diverges to (21 M.) Decatur (p. 401).
At (170 M.) Mt. Pulaski our line is crossed by that from Peoria to
Evansville (p.417). — 193 M. Springfield (p. 400). 236 M. Litchfield;
257 M. Alhambra; 289 M. Bridge Junction; 290 M. East St. Louis
(p. 409).
400 Route 58. SPRINGFIELD.
293 M. St. Louis, see p. 410.
It should be noticed that some of the trains entering St. Louis, both
on this and other lines, do not touch E. St. Louis but cross the Merchants^
Bridge (p. 415) and skirt the levee on the W. side of the river.
b. Via. Chicago and Alton Bailway.
284 M. Railway in S-lQi/z hrs. (fares as at p. 399).
Chicago (Canal St. Depot), see p. 366. The line runs to theS.W.
tlirougli the prairies of Illinois , passing at first several snbnrban
stations. 33 M. Lockport (2659 inbab.), the terminns of the Chicago
Drainage Canal (p. 373) ; 37 M. Joliet (p. 420). — 74 M. Dwight,
the original home of Keeley's 'Gold Cure'.
At Dwight diverges (to the right) the line for (80 M.) Peoria, to which
solid through - trains run from Chicago in 4^/4 hrs. — Peoria (National,
$ 21/2-4, R. from $ i; Fey, $ 21/2-31/2; The Grant, $ 2-3), a busy industrial
city with (1900) 56,100 inhab., is celebrated for its whiskey and has
many substantial buildings. The value of its industrial products in 1900
was $ 48,871,598. It is also connected by through-trains with Kansas City
and St. Louis.
124 M. Normal, with large nurseries, the State Normal College,
and a Soldiers' Orphan Home. — I26V2 M. Bloomington (825ft. ;
The Hills , from $ 2 ; The Illinois , Folsom, $ 21/2) , a busy manu-
facturing town of 23,286 inhab. and an important railway-centre.
185 M. Springfield (630 ft.; Leland Ho., $ 3, R. $ IV2-2V2;
St. Nicholas, $ 2), the capital of Illinois, is a well-built and
tree -shaded city of 34,159 inhab. ('Flower City'), the trade and
industry of which are promoted by the rich coal-mines whose
smoke is visible all round. The State Capitol is a large building,
with a dome. The State Arsenal and the extensive manufactory of
the Illinois Watch Co. repay a visit. Oak Ridge Cemetery, 2 M. to
the N., contains the grave of Abraham Lincoln (1809-65), marked
by a handsome monument, erected in 1874 at a cost of $ 200,000
(40,000 L). The house he occupied when elected President in 1861
is in Eighth St., four blocks from the Court House. It now belongs
to the State and is open to the public, but its contents do not date
from Lincoln's occupancy. — 211 M. Oirard; 252 M. Godfrey. —
2571/2 M. Alton (470 ft. ; Madison, $ 2^/2) , an industrial city of
14,210 inhab., lies on high ground on the E. bank of the Mississippi,
3 M. above the mouth of the Missouri. In 1897 a monument was
erected here to Elijah P. Lovejoy (1802-37), the anti-slavery martyr.
— The train descends along the Mississippi and at (281 M.) East
St. Louis (p. 409), crosses it by a fine bridge (p. 415).
284 M. St. Louis, see R. 63.
c. Via Wabash Railroad.
286 M. Railway in S-10 hrs. (fares as at p. 399).
Chicago (Dearborn Station), see p. 366. The course of this line
is very similar to those above described. Most of the stations
named below are points of junction with other lines. — 34 M. Steele ;
J-^^tf- ^ s n 3: ;-.,\^ "s,
m I- 1
INDIANAPOLIS. 59. Route. 401
35 M. Brisbane; 60 M. Essex; 67 M. Reddick. From (93 M.) Forrest
branch-lines run to (17 M.) Pontiac and (37 M.) Streator and to
(65 M.) Peoria (p. 400). 113 M. Gibson; 124 M. Lotus,- 132 M.
Mansfield; 140 M. Lodge; 146 M. Monticello. At (153 M.) Bement
we cross the Wabash line from Detroit to Kansas City. — 173 M.
Decatur (St. Nicholas, $ 2-3), a busy railway-centre (comp. p. 399)
with 20.754 inhab., produced goods to the value of nearly
$ 6,000,000 in 1900. — 202 M. Taylorville (4248 inhab.); 234 M.
Litchfield; 248 M. Staunton (2786 inhab.); 265 M. Edwardsville
Junction, for (2 M.') Edwardsville (4157 inhab.); 278 M. Granite City;
283 M. East St. Louis (p. 409).
286 M. St. Louis, see R. 63.
59. From Chicago to Cincinnati.
a. Vil, Lafayette and Indianapolis.
306 M. Cleveland, Cincinnati, Chicago, & St. Louis Railway C-Big
Four Line') in 8-lOhrs. (fare $6; sleeper $2, re dining- chair $1).
Chicago (Illinois Central Station) , see p. 366. The train runs
along the lake-front (p. 371) to (9V2 M.) Grand Crossing and then
turns to the S. (inland). 56 M. Kankakee (625 ft.), a railway and
industrial centre with 13,600 inhab., on the Kankakee River. Our
line now runs to the S.E. and crosses the Kankakee and Iroquois Rivers.
Beyond (86 M.) Sheldon we enter Indiana. — 131 M. Lafayette
(590 ft.; Lahr Ho., $ 21/2-3 V2), an industrial city of 18,116 inhab.,
at the head of navigation on the Wabash River. Purdue College has
1820 students of agriculture, engineering, and other practical branches.
The battletteld of Tippecanoe (see p. 357) lies about 7 M. to the N.
195 M. Ladianapolis. — Claxpool Hotel (P1. a; B, 3), from $ 3-,
Denison (PI. b; C, 2)-, Grand (PI. c; B, C, 3), $ 2V2-5, R. from $ IV2;
English (PI. d; C, 2), from $ 2, R. from $ 1; Spencer (PI. e; B, 3), from
$ 2. — Electric Cars (5 e ) traverse the chief streets. — Post Office (PI. C, 2;
p. 402). — English Opera Souse, in the English Hotel Building (see above),
high-class plays; Grand Opera House (PI. C, 2); Majestic, Illinois St., near
Washington St. (PI. B, 3), polite vaudeville ; Park CPl- B, 3), popular plays 5
Empire (PI. C, 2), burlesque. — Information to visitors given freely at the
Commercial Club (PI. C, 3).
Indianapolis (700 ft.), founded in 1821, the capital and largest
city of Indiana, with (1900) 169,164 inhab., lies on the W. branch
of the White River, in the midst of a wide plain. It is a great railway-
centre, carries on an extensive trade in live-stock, and produces
manufactures to the value of 80 million doUars (16,000,000 Z.) an-
nually. The chief attraction of the city lies in its beautiful residence-
quarter, with its tasteful houses, shady streets, and grassy lawns.
The focus of the city is|the circular Monument Place (PL C, 3),
from which four wide avenues run diagonally to the four corners of
he city, all the other streets being laid out at right angles to each
other. In the centre of this place rises the SoLDrEKS and SaiI/OBS
402 Route 59. INDIANAPOLIS.
Monument, 285 ft. high, by Bruno Schmitz of Berlin (1893).
Round the momiment are statnes of Oen. 0. B. Clark (1752-1818),
Gov.Whitcomb (1795-1852), President W. H. Harrison (1773-
1841), and Gov. Morton (1823-77). A little to the W. is the
State Capitol (PI. B, 2, 3), a large bnildiag with a central tower
and dome, erected at a cost of $ 2,000,000. At the E. entrance to
the Capitol is a Statue of Gov. Morton (see above) and near by is
that of Gov. Hendricks (1819-85). The Marion County Court
House (PI. C, 3), also an imposing edifice, lies to the E. of Monu-
ment Place, while to the N. of it is the U. S. Court House & Post
Office (PI. C, 2), erected in 1902-4. To the S. W. of the former
is a *Statue of Gen. H.W. Lawton (1843-99), by A. O'Connor. In
University Park (PI, C, 2) is a Statue of President Benjamin Harrison
(1833-1901), erected in 1908.
The John Herron Art Institute, at the cor. of Pennsylvania Ave.
and 16 th St. (beyond PL C, 1), contains a School of Art and a col-
lection of modern paintings (adm. 25 c, on Sun. afternoon & holi-
days 10 c). — Other large and Important buildings are the Blind
Asylum (PI. C, 1); the Propylaeum (PI. C, 1, 2), owned and controlled
by a stock -company of women for literary purposes; the Deaf
^ Dumb Asylum (PI. F, 3) ; the Lnion Railway Station (PI. B, C,
3,4); the City Hall; the Public Library (PI. 0,2; 150,000 vols.);
the Masonic Temple (PI. C, 1); the Oddfellows Building (PI. C, 3);
the Deutsche Haus (PL D, 2), a German club-honse; the Maenner-
chor Building (PL B, 2) ; and several Churches. The Winona Technical
Institute (PL F, 1) is installed in buildings erected for the U. S.
Arsenal. The Central Hospital for the Insane lies 1^2 M. to the
W. of the city, beyond the White River. The Riverside (N.W.),
Broad Ripple (N.), Brookside (N.E.), Fairview (N.), and Garfield
(S.) Parks deserve mention. A visit may be paid to Crown Hill
Cemetery, 2 M. to the N., and to the large Manufactories (iron,
terracotta, pork -packers) and the Union Stockyards (to theS.W. ,
beyond PL A, 4).
Indianapolis is a great centre of electric railways, which radiate hence
in all directions, 250 cars leaving the terminal station daily.
Beyond Indianapolis the train continues to run towards the
S.E.215M. Fairland; 222 M. Shelby ville; 242M. Greensburg. Numer-
ous small trestles and sand-pits are seen. At (283 M.) Lawrenceburg
Junction we reach the Ohio, which we follow to the E. to —
306 M. Cincinnati (Central Union Station), see p. 405.
b. Yik Logansport.
299 M. Pittsburg, Cincinnati, Chicago, & St. Louis Railway ('Pan
Handle Route') in 8-tOhrs. (fares as at p. 401), This is, perhaps, the best
route for a night -journey, as it avoids the often long halt in the noisy
station of Indian ipolis.
From Chicago to (117 M.) Logansport, see R. 48 b. At (122 M.)
Anoka Junction our line diverges to the right from that to Columbus
XENIA. 60. Route. 403
and Pittsburg (see p. 350). 176 M. Anderson. 225 M. Richmond
(Westcott, $21/2-472), with 18,226 inhab., is the entrepot of a rich
agricnltuial district. At (241 M.) Eaton we turn neariy due S, 269 M.
Hamilton, an industrial town with 23,914 inhab., on the Miami,
299 M. Cincinnati (Pan Handle Depot), see p. 405.
c. Vi& the Uonon Boute.
308 M. Chicago, Indianapolis, & Lotjisvilue Eailwat to (184 M.)
Indianapolis, and Cincinnati, Hamilton, & Dayton Railway thence to
(308 M.) Cincinnati in 8V4-IO74 hrs. (through-carriages; fares as at p. 401).
Chicago (Dearborn Station), see p. 366. At (21 M.) Hammond
(Majestic, $2), with 12,876 inhab., we enter Indiana. The line
then runs S.E. to (88 M.) Monon, where we cross the C. I. & L.
line from Michigan City (p. 363) to Louisville (p. 567). — 99 M.
Monticello. — At (184 M.) Indianapolis (p. 401) we connect with
the Cin., Hamilton, & Dayton line from Springfield. — 223 M. Rush-
i;«ie (4541 inhab.); 231 M. Connmw^te (6836 inhab.)- At (263 M.)
College Comer we enter Ohio. 2821/2 M. Hamilton, see above.
308 M. Cincinnati, see p. 405.
60. From New York to Cincinnati.
a. Vi§. Pennsylvania Railroad.
757 M. Railway in 19-21 hrs. (fare $18; Pullman car $4).
From New York to (90 M.) Philadelphia, see K. 16 a; from Phila-
delphia to (444 M.) Pittsburg, see R. 22; from Pittsburg to (637 M.)
Columbus, see R. 48 b.
At Columbus our line diverges to the left (S.) from that to
Chicago (comp. p. 350). — 692M. Xenia (920 ft. ; Florence, $ 2-2V2),
a city of 8696 inhab., with paper-mills and twine manufactures, Wil-
berforce University (400 coloured students), a large Orphan's Home,
and other well-known educational and charitable institutions. —
At (717 M.) Fort Ancient is a huge prehistoric earthwork, with 5 M.
of embankments (now a public park),
757 M. Cincinnati (Pan Handle Depot), see p. 405.
b. ViS. Chesapeake & Ohio Railway.
828 M. Railway in 24 hrs. (fare $18; sleeper $4). The F. F.V. (Fast
Flying Virginian) Vestibule Limited Train on this route leaves New York
at 5 p.m. (no extra charge).
From New York to (90 M.) Philadelphia (Pennsylvania R. R.),
see p. 156; thence to (186 M.) Baltimore (Penna. R.R.), see p. 201 ;
thence to (229 M.) Washington (Phil., Baltimore, & Washington
R. R.), see p. 210. From Washington to (682 M.) Ashland, see R. 90.
At Ashland the line forks, the left branch running via Lexington
(p. 582) to (208 M.) Louisville (p. 567). 686 M. Russell or Ironton
(11,868 inhab.), on the Ohio (right) bank of the river; 764 M.
404 Route 60. DAYTON.
Maysville; 772 M. South Ripley^ 824 M. Newport (p. 408); 823 M.
Covington (p. 408). We now cross the Ohio to —
828 M. Cincinnati (Central Union Station), see p. 405.
c. Via. Cleveland.
886 M. Railway in 20-25 hrs. (fare SIS; sleeper $4). N. T. C. R. R. to
(440M.) Buffalo; LakeShoreRy. thence to (623 M.) Glevelaiui; and C. C. C.<kSt. L.
Ry. thence to (886 M.) Cincinna'i. Buflfalo may also be reached by the routes
mentioned at pp. 139-144. Through sleeping-cars on the express trains.
From New York to (440 M.) Buffalo, see R. 12 a; from Buffalo
to (623 M.) Cleveland, see R. 50 a.
From Cleveland the railway runs towards the S. W. 635 M. Berea ;
698 M. Crestline (p. 349) ; 703 M. Galion (p. 409) ; 737 M. Delaware
(925 ft.). — 761 M. Columbus, see p. 349. — 806 M. Springfield
(990 ft.; Arcade, $ 2^/2-3 V2)? ^ manufacturing city (agricultural
machinery, etc. ; value in 1900 , $ 12,777,000) of 38,253 inhab.,
with fine water-power furnished by the Lagonda Creek and Mad
River. It has a large trade in farm products.
830 M. Dayton (745 ft.; Algonquin, Beckel Ho., from $21/2),
a city of 85,333 inhab., lies at the confluence of the Mad River
with the Great Miami and manufactures machinery, flour, paper,
etc., to the value (1900) of $35,700,000. The National Cash
Register Co.'s arrangements for the welfare of its 2000 employees
repay a visit. On a hill 2 M. to the W. is the Central National
Soldiers'' Home, with 5000 inmates.
886 M. Cincinnati (Central Union Station), see p. 405.
d. Yik Baltimore & Ohio Bailroad.
780 M. Railway ia 23-25 hrs. (fare $16; sleeper $4).
From New York to (226 M.) Washington, see RR. 16b, 25, & 27b j
thence to (480 M.) Grafton, see R. 49.
From Grafton the line runs to the W. through a somewhat un-
interesting district, with petroleum-wells and coal-mines. 502 M.
Clarksburg (Hotel Waldo, from $21/2), on the Monongahela. — 584 M.
Parkersburg [Qib ft. ; Chancellor, from $21/2; Jackson, $2-31/2;
Blennerhassett, $ 2-3), a petroleum-trading city, with 11,703 inhab.,
at the confluence of the Little Kanawha and Ohio. A branch-line
runs hence to (14 M.) Marietta, Ohio.
Xear GrantsviHe, in the valley of the Little Kanawha, about 50 M. above
Parkers burg, are the huge Cabot Carbon Black Works, where 4 tons of
soot are daily condensed by 125,000 jets of natural gas.
The train crosses the Ohio river by a fine bridge and enters Ohio.
"We now pass from Eastern to Central time (p. xviii). 586 M. Belpre. —
621 M. Athens (655 ft.), on the Hocking, with 3066 inhab. and Ohio
University (1320 students). In the neighbourhood are several Indian
mounds. — 681 M. Chillicothe (635 ft.), a city of 12,976 inhab.,
with considerable manufactures, is the centre of a rich agricultural
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Practical Notes. CINCINNATI. 61. Route. 40b
district. 738 M. Blanchester. At (755 M.) Loveland we cross the
Miami. 769 M. Norwood.
780 M. Cincinnati (Central Union, Station), see below.
e. Yik Erie Railroad.
873 M. Railwat in 24-33 hrs. (fare $16; sleeper $4). Through-cars.
From New York to (729 M.) Marion Junction, see R. 29 f. From
this point the line follows much the same route as the C. C. C &
St. L. Railway (R. 60 c). 778 M. Urbana (p. 350) ; 792 M. Spring-
field (p. 404); 813 M. Dayton (p. 404); 837 M. Hamilton (p. 403).
873 M. Cincinnati, see below.
61. Cincinnati.
Railway Stations. Central Union Station (PI. D, 5), Central Ave. & Srd
., used by the C. C. C. & St. L., the B. & 0., the 0. <fe 0., the C, N. O.,
Court Street Station (PI. E, 3), for the Gin., Lebanon, & Northern R. R. and
other lines. — Omnibuses and Cabs meet the principal trains fto the
hotels, 50 c. each). f f v ^
.T.1 ?"i^®\^; f/.''''''^ ^^^' *=' ^' *^' ^^^^ S*-' «o^- ^t^ St., R. $ 2-5; Haviin
1?^%^'-?' j)' ^^°® S'-' ^^^- OP^^* P^ace, R. from $ 2; Geand Hotel (PI. a:
D 4 o) Central Ave., cor. 4th St., $ 3-5, R. from $ li/z; *St. Nicholas
1? ,,°,' ^'^^^' ^^^^ S*-' '^^^^ ^*^ St., R. from $ 11/2; Alms Hotel, cor. of
McMillan St. and Alms PI. (PI. F, a, 1), $ 3-5; Bukket Ho. (PI. d; D, 4),
Xl°®o?*-' «*'*''■; ^""^ §\-\ ^'^^""^ ^°- (PI- e; D, E, 4), Walnut St., near
^oI^Jt*-? ^-/rom $11/2; Emeky (PI. f; D, 4), R. from $1; Mabtin'sI
537 Walnut St.; Palace (PI. g; D, 4), § 21/2-81/2; Lackman, 413 Vine St.,
near 4th St., R. from $ II/2; Savoy, 15 E. 6th St., near Vine St., wel
spoken of; Honing, 422 Vine St., near 4th St., R. from $1= The Stag
S* \^V^A ^h ^^5 ^'"^^ St., R. from 75 c. ; Mdneo, 29 W. 7th Street, with
Turkish Baths, R. from $ 1, these five for men only.
Restaurants. -St. Nicholas Hotel, see above; Stag CaU, see above;
Gi^on CaU, Walnut St. ; MajesUc Cafi, 526 Vine St. ; Bismarck, Mercantile
Library Building; Martin's, see above; Salamoni, 4th St.; Women's Ex-
change, Race St., near 4th St. — Beer Gardens, in the German style (con-
certs m summer), abound on the hills round the city.
Tramways (electric) traverse all the chief streets and suburbs, in-
cludmg Covington and Newport (p. 40S). Some of them afford charming
rides oi 0-15 M Uniform fare 5 c. — Cabs: per drive, each pers 25-50 c •
^ii^^*^° ^*^f®P' ^"^ P®"- ^ ^' ^^<=^ ^^^^^- pers. 50 c; per hr. $2, each
addit. hr. 5 II/2; heavy luggage extra. — Four Inclined Planes (similar
to those at Pittsburg, p. 197) ascend to the tops of the surrounding hills:
(1). Mount Adams (PI. E,4); (2). Clifton Heights (PI. D, 2); (3). Price's Hill
(PI. A, 4); (4). Fairview (PI. C, 2). Comp. p. 407. - Steamers ply to the
chief ports on the Ohio and Mississippi.
Th.ea.tres. Grand Opera Ho. (PL D, 4), Vine St.; Walnut St. Theatre
(Pi. D, E, 4), Walnut St.; Robinson's Opera Ho. (PI. D, 4), cor. Plum & 9th
Sts ; Heucks (PI. D, 3), 1213 Vine St.; People's Theatre (PI. D, 3), cor. of
13th and Vine Sts.; Lyric, Vine St., between 5th and 6th Sts. (PI. D, 4)-
Odeon (PI. D, 3), Elm St.; Lyceum (PI. D, 4), Central Ave.; Columbia, or
Fountain Sq. Theatre (PI. D, 4), adjoining Fountain So.; Olympic, 7th St.,
N. side, between Walnut and Main Sts. (PI. D, E, 4); Standard (PL D, 4)
Vine bt. Some of these are open on Sunday.
406 Route 61. CINCINNATI. History.
Pleasure Eesorts (open in summer, with theatrical performances,
concerts, etc.). Zoological Gardens, see p. 408. — The Logroon (beyond PI. A, 5),
on the Kentucky side of the river, opposite Price's Hill, with park and lake
(tramway in 1/2 hr., 5 c). — Chester Park, 5 M. to the N. (tramway 5 c). —
Coney Island. 10 M. up the river, reached by hourly steamers from the foot
of Vine St. (PI. E, 5). — Queen City Bathing Beach at Dayton , on the
Kentucky side of the river, to the E. of Cincinnati. — SympTumy Concerts,
every fortnight in winter in the Springer Music Hall (p. 407).
Post Office (PI. E, 4), 5th St. (6 a.m. to 10 p.m.).
G-EBMAN CoNSDL, Dr. Lettcnbaur.
Cincinnati (430-550 ft. above the sea) , the second city of Ohio
and one of the most important mannfactnring and commercial centres
of the Middle West, is finely situated on several terraces rising from
the right (N.) bank of the Ohio and is surrounded by an amphi-
theatre of hills 400-500 ft. high. It has a frontage of 14 M. on the
river. The main portion of the city is regularly laid out and its
streets are well paved. The chief shopping district is bounded by
4th, Main, 7th, and Elm Sts. The best residential quarters are
on the surrounding highlands. In 1900 Cincinnati contained
325,902 inhab., of whom about a third were of German origin. The
Germans formerly resided mainly to the N. of the Miami Canal, and
that district is known as 'Over the Rhine'. On the opposite bank of
the Ohio, in Kentucky, lie the cities of Covington and Newport
(p. 408), connected with Cincinnati by five fine bridges.
Cincinnati was settled in 1788 and named in honour of the Society of
the Cincinnati (officers of the Army of the Revolution). Mounds con-
taining relics seem to indicate that part of the site was occupied in^pre-
historic times. By the beginning of the 19th cent, it contained about 7-800
inhab., and in 1819 it received its city charter. Its growth dates mainly
from the construction of the Miami Canal (1830) and the advent of the
railway system (1840). In 1850 it contained 115,436 inhab. (as compared
with 29,963 at Chicago; see p. 869), in 1870 it had 216,239, and in 1890 it
had 296,9ti8.
Industry and Trade. The value of Cincinnati's manufactures in 1900
was $157,800,000 (31,560,000?.), produced by 63,000 hands. The staple
articles include iron, machinery, carriages, boots and shoes, furniture,
office-furnishings, pianos, soap, printing-ink, decorative pottery, beer,
tobacco, and whiskey. Pork-packing is also extensively carried on. Many
of the larger plants are outside the Corporation limits, and it is estimated
that the annual value of the products of the city and its immediate en-
virons is now at least $300,000,000. Its trade, transacted by river and rail,
is also very important.
Fountain Square (PI. D, E, 4), an expansion of 5th Street, may,
perhaps, be called the business-centre of the city and from it start
most of the tramway-lines. In the middle of the square stands
the *Tyler Davidson Fountain, designed by August von Kreling
and cast at the Royal Bronze Foundry at Munich (1871). To the
N., at the corner of 5th St. and Walnut St., is the TJ. S. Govern-
ment Building (PI. E, 4), accommodating the Post Office, Custom
House, and U, S. Law Courts.
By following 5th St. to the W. and turning to the left down
Vine St., we pass the entrance to the Emery Arcade (PI. D, 4) and
reach, at the coiner of the busy 4th Street, the *Chamber of Com-
merce (PI. D, 4), designed by H. H. Richardson (;p. Ixxxix). Opposite,
Eden Park. CINCINNATI. 61. Route. 407
at the N.E. cor. of 4tli and Vine Sts., stands the concrete Ingalls
Building (PI. 2), 14 stories high. On the N. side of 4th St., between
Yine and Race Sts., is the fine Third National Bank (PI. 4).
Following 4th St. towards the W., we soon reach Plum Street
(PI. D, 4, 5), which we may follow to the right (N.) to *St. Paul's Pro-
testant Cathedral (PI. D, 4; Epis.), at the corner of 7th St.; the
R. C, Cathedral of St. Peter (PI. D, 4), at the corner of 8th St.
(with an alleged Murillo and other pictures); and the Synagogue
(PI. D, 4), opposite the last. In the block bounded by Central Ave.
and 8th, 9th, and Plum Sts. is the *City Hall (PI. D, 4), a large
red building in a Romanesque style, with a lofty tower (view). A
little to the E., in Yine St., between 6th and 7th Sts., is the Public
Library (PL D, 4; 350,000 vols.).
To the N. of this point, 'over the Rhine' (see p. 406), is Wash-
ington Park (PI. D, 3), with the Springer Music Hall (p. 406) and
the Exposition Building.
Among other buildings may be mentioned the County Court
House (PI. E, 4), St. Xaviers College [PI, E, 4), the Oddfellows'
Temple (PI. D, 4), the Cincinnati Hospital (PI. D, 3, 4), theWork-
house^ and the House of Refuge (both beyond PI. B, 1). Recent
buildings of the modern type include the Traction Building (PI. 5 ;
E, 4), the Mercantile Library (PI. E, 4), the Union Trust Building
(PI. 6; D, E, 4), and the First National Bank (Pi. 1 ; E, 4).
The chief park of Cincinnati is Eden Park (PI. E-G, 2, 3), 216
acres in extent, which lies on the hills to theE. and affords fine views
of the city and river (band on Sun.). It contains the Art Museum
(see below), a storage reservoir of the City Water Works, and the
Water Tower. The top of the last (elevator) affords the best *Yiew
of the city and its environs, the river, and the Kentucky Highlands.
We may reacli the park by the electric cars from Fountain Sq., which
are elevated bodily by the inclined plane railway (PI. E, 4) and run through
the park, past the Art Museum (through-fare 5 c)- [Near the head of the
inclined plane is the Rookwood Pottery (see below ; visitors admitted).] Or we
may take the Gilbert Ave. electric cars to the Eden Park Entrance, 5 min.
from the Art Museum. [EMnore^ a towered gateway, a little farther down
Gilbert Ave., on this route, was erected by the City Water Works.]
The Art Museum (PI. F, 3), a handsome group of buildings on a
hiU-top, some in a Romanesque, others in a Grecian style, is open
daily, 9-5 (Sun. 1-5; adm. 25 c, Sun. 10 c. Sat. free; catalogues
10 c). Adjacent is the Art Academy (500 students). Both are main-
tained by a private corporation.
The coUectiona include Paintings, Sculptures, Engravingt, Etchings,
Metal Work, Textile Fabrics, Pottery, American Ethnology and Archaeology, etc.
The pictures include a few old masters, some French and English works
(e. g. Haydon's 'Entry of Christ into Jerusalem'), examples of Leasing and
other Germans (esp. of the Ddsseldorf School), and specimens of Duveneck,
Blum, and many other contemporary American painters. The historical
collection oi * Rookwood Pottery (see above; 2000 pieces) and the collections
of wood-carving and Oriental art (Japanese embroideries and Indian shawls)
are also noteworthy. The Art Library (35,000 vols.) is open for reference.
408 Route 61. CINCINNATI. Serpent Mound.
From the top of the Clifton Heights Inclined Railway (PI. D, 2)
we may go by electric car to the Burnet Woods Park (PI. D, 1), a
fine piece of natural forest. To the S. of it, facing Clifton Ave., are
the handsome bnildings of the University of Cincinnati (PI. D, 1 ;
1200 students). — A good view is obtained from the top of the
Price's Hill Inclined Plane (PL A, 4). — The *Spring Grove Cemetery,
5 M. to the N.W., is picturesque and contains some interesting mon-
uments. — The *Zoological Garden (beyond PI. D, 1; adm. 25 c;
open daily, Sun. included),reached by electric tramways from Fountain
Square, contains a fine collection of animals and is a favourite resort
(restaurant ; concerts).
The *Suspension Bridge (PI. E, 5), connecting Cincinnati with
Covington, was constructed byRoebling (p. 40) in 1865 at a cost of
$ 1,800,000 and rebuilt and enlarged in 1897 at an additional cost
of $500,000. It is 2720 ft. long (including the approaches; be-
tween the towers 1005 ft.), 52 ft. wide, and 103 ft. above low-water
mark (toll 2 c.). The ^Central Bridge (PL E, F, 5) is a handsome
cantilever structure ; and there are besides three Railway Bridges.
The Levee or Public Landing (PI. E, 5), below the Central Bridge,
1000 ft. long, usually presents a busy and animated sight.
Covington (42,938 inhab.) and Newport (28,300 inhab.) are two uninter-
esting cities in Kentucky, whicb need not detain the stranger. They are
separated from each other by the Licking River (crossed by a suspension
bridge) and contain the residences of many Cincinnati merchants. The U. S.
Government Building in Covington is a good specimen of modern Gothic.
Pleasant drives may be taken to Walnut Hills, Avondale, Clifton, Spring
Grove, Price's Hill, and Fort Thomas. The last, one of the most important
stations of the U.S. army, is finely situated in the hills behind Newport,
partly on a promontory high above the river (view). The daily guard-
mounting is accompanied by a band-concert, and there is a dress-parade
daily in summer (Sat. and Sun. excepted). It may be reached ty electric
car in 40 min. (5 c). — The church of St. Francis de Sales (PI. G, 1),
in Walnut Hills, contains a bell weighing 15 tons.
Cincinnati will probably be the most convenient point from which
the scientific traveller can visit the famous Serpent Mound. This is
situated on the bank of Brush Creek, in Adams County, Ohio, and the
nearest railway -station is Peebles, 71 M. to the E. of Cincinnati by the
Norfolk d; Western Railway (Pan Handle Depot, p. 405). The mound, which
is 7 M. from Peebles (omn. or carr.), is in the form of a serpent, iOOO ft.
long and 5 ft. high, and is 30 ft. wide at the base. The tail ends in a triple
coil, and the mouth is open, as if to swallow an oval mound which rests
partly between the distended jaws. This oval is 4 ft. high, with diameters
of 109 and 39 ft. — Archaeologists may also visit Fort Ancient (see p. 403).
From Cincinnati to Chicago, see R. 59; to St. Louis, see R. 62 d; to
Louisville, Chattanooga, and New Orleans, see R. 92.
62. From New York to St. Louis.
a. Vi& Cleveland and Indianapolis.
1171 M. Railway in 281/2-32 hrs. (fare $24.25-, through - sleeper $ 6).
N. Y. C. R. R. from New York to (440 M.) Buffalo, Lake Shore Railway
thence to (623 M.) Cleveland, and C. G. C. <fe St. L. R. R. thence to (1171 M.)
Si. Louis.
TERRE HAUTE. 62, Route. 409
From New York to (703 M.) Oalion, see R. 60 c. — At Gallon
onr line diverges to the right from that to Cincinnati (see p. 404).
724 M. Marion; 764 M. Belief ontaine (1215 ft.); 8041/2 M. Ver-
sailles; 8211/2 M. Union City (1110 ft.), partly in Ohio and partly
in Indiana; 870 M. Anderson.
906 m. Indianapolis (Bail. Restaurant)^ see p. 401.
Beyond Indianapolis the train crosses the White River and runs
to the S.W. through Indiana. 945 M. Oreencastle {ISO ft.) , with
3661 inhah. and the Depauw University (Methodist; 975 students).
— 978 M. Terre Haute (490 ft; Terre Haute Ho., $21/2-4; Fil-
heck, $ 3), a husy commercial and industrial city of 36,673 inhab.,
on the Wabash River, with some fine buildings and several educa-
tional institutions (comp. p. xcviii). It is an important railway
centre, and steamers descend the Wabash hence to Vincennes
(p. 410). — The train now crosses the Wabash and enters Illinois.
997 M. Paris (Paris Hotel, $ 2-3 ; Central, at the station, $ 2),
with 6105 inhab. ; 1035 M. Mattoon (p. 588). At (1058 M.) Shelby-
ville we cross the Kaskaskia and see a lofty trestle to the right (N.).
1074 M. Pana; 1113 M. Litchfield (685 ft.). From (1148 M.) East
Alton (470 ft.) the line runs S. along the valley of the Mississippi.
At (1168M.) East St. Louis, near which is the Cahokia Indian Mound
(90ft. high; seep. Ixii), we cross the Eads Bridge (p. 415).
1171 M. St. Louis, see p. 410.
h. Via, Philadelphia and Pittsburg.
1065 M. Railway (Pennsylvania Lines) in27V2-31 hrs. ($ 24.25 ; sleeper $ 6).
From New York to (90 M.) Philadelphia, see R. 16a ; thence to
(444 M.) Pittsburg, see R. 22; thence to (720 M.) Bradford Junction,
see R. 48b. From Bradford Junction the line runs to the S.W. to
(758 M.) Richmond (p. 402). — 825 M. Indianapolis (p. 401). The
'Vandalia Line', which we now follow, takes nearly the same course
as the line above described. 861 M. Greencastle; 897 M. Terre Haute
(see above) ; 965 M, Effingham; 977 M. Altamont; 997 M. Vandalia;
1014 M. Greenville ; 1062 M. East St. Louis (see above).
1065 M. St. Louis, see p. 410.
c. Vi& Buffalo and Toledo.
1172 M. Railway in 281/2-34 hrs. (fare 3 24.25 5 sleeper $ 6). jy. ¥. C. R. R.
to (440 M.) Buffalo; Michigan Central R. R. thence to (736 M.) Toledo; Wabash
R. R. thence to (1172 M.) St. Louis.
From New York to (440 M.) Buffalo, see R. 12 a; thence to (736 M.)
Toledo, see R. 50a. — From Toledo the train runs towards the S.W.,
touching the Maumee River at (772 M..^ Napoleon (680 ft.) and cross-
ing it at (786 M.) Defiance (700 ft.). Beyond (807 M.) Antwerp
we enter Indiana (p. 357). At (830 M.) Fort Wayne (p. 357) we
410 Route 63. ST. LOUIS. Practical
intersect the Pennsylvania R. R. and 'Nickel Plate' routes from New
York to Chicago. 873 M. Wabash (740 ft.) 5 887 M. Peru (685 ft.) ;
903 M. Logansport (p. 350) ; 940 M. Lafayette (p. 401). At (961 M.)
Attica we cross the Wabash and at (978 M.) State Line we enter
Illinois (p. 357). 1060 M. Decatur (p. 401); 1120 M. Litchfield
(p. 409); 1169 M. East St. Louis (p. 409).
1172 M. St. Louis, see below.
d. Vi& Washington and Cincinnati.
1120 M. Baltimobe & Ohio R. R. in 32-38 lirs. (fare $ 21.25; sleeper $ 6).
From New York to (780 M.) Cincinnati, see R. 60 d. Beyond
Cincinnati the train (Baltimore ^ Ohio South- Western Railway)
follows the N. (right) bank of the Ohio for some distance, crossing
the Great Miami and entering Indiana (p. 357) beyond (795 M.)
North Bend. At (806 M.) Aurora (490 ft.) it leaves the river. —
852 M. North Vernon (725 ft.) is the junction of a branch-line to
(58 M.) Louisville (p. 568). From (906 M.) Mitchell a branch-line
runs to (23 M.) rrench Lick Springs [French Lick $ 3-5 ; West
Baden, 1 M. from French Lick, $2^/2-6), with waters effective in
abdominal disorders. At (927 M.) Shoals we cross the S. fork, and
beyond (950 M.) Washington the N. fork of the White River. 968 M.
Vincennes, a city with 10,249 inhab., on the E. bank of the Wabash
(steamers to Terre Haute, see p. 409). We here cross the Wabash
and enter Illinois (p. 357). 1055 M. Odin; 1117M. East St. Louis
(p. 409).
1120 M. St. Louis, see below.
63. St. Louis.
Arrival. Tlie Union Nation (PI. F, 2; restaurant), erected in 1895 at a
cost of § 5,000,000, is in Market St., between 18th and 20th Sts. The train-
shed is 7U0 ft. long and 600 ft. wide, containing 32 tracks. The main
waiting-hall, with its fine waggon- vault , is very elaborately decorated
(best viewed from the galleries). Hacks (p. 411) and hotel-omnibuses (50 c.)
are in waiting. — There are also smaller stations for suburban traffic at
the foot of Washington Ave. and at the end of the St. Louis or Eads Bridge
(PI. H, 2). — The Steamboat Landings (PI. H, 2) are near the Eads Bridge.
Hotels. •Jeffekson (PI. k; G, 2), with 1500 beds, cor. of i2th and
Locust Sts., R. from $21/2; *Southebn (PI. a; H, 2), a huge caravanserai
bounded by Walnut, Elm, 4th Sts., and Broadway, $341/2, R. from $ 11/25
*Planteks (PI. b j H, 2), 4th St., between Chestnut and Pine Sts., R. from
$2; Washington (PI. m^ C, 1), Kingshighway, cor. of Washington Boul.,
R. from $11/2; Buckingham (PL c; C, 1), Kingshighway, cor. of W. Pine
BouL, R. from § 2, two good family hotels ; Buckingham Annex (PL n ;
C, 1), opposite the last, R. from $11/2; Hamilton, cor. of Hamilton and
Maple Aves. (beyond PI. A, 1), R. from $11/2; Usona (PL o^ C, 1), Kings-
highway, from $ 3; Beslin (PL q; C, 1), Taylor and Berlin Aves., R. from
$ 2, two good family hotels (these six all near Forest Park and some
way from the centre of the city). Terminal (PL s ; F, 2), at the Union
Station, R. from $ IV25 Grand Central (PL g; F, 2), cor. of Jefferson Ave.
and Pine St., R. from $ 1; MakqueTtb (PL f; G, 2), a large new hotel,
A
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Notes. ST. LOUIS. 63. Route. 411
cor. 18th St. and Washington Ave., E. from $1; Laclede (PI. e; H, 2),
Chestnut and 6th Sts., R. from $1; Mosee (PI. t; G, 2), 815 Pine St., R.
from $ 1; Stbatfokd (PL i; Gr, 2), cor. 8th and Pine Sts., E. from $ 1, good;
Maktland (PL p; G, 2), cor. of 9th and Pine Sts., R, from $1; Hotel
Beebs (PL d; E, 1, 2j, pleasantly situated in Olive St., cor. of Grand Ave.,
from $ 3, E. from $ 1; Geand Avbncb (PL 1 ; E, 2), nearly opposite the last,
a family hotel, from $3; Benton (PL n; G, 2), 8l9 Pine St., E. $ IV2-2V2
(men only); New St. James (PL v; H, 2), Broadway, cor. of Walnut St.,
$ 2-31/2, R. from $ 1 ; Merchants (PL w ; G, 2), 12th and Olive Sts., R, from $ 1;
Hotel Garni, Jefferson Ave. (PL F, 2), R. from $1; West End! (PL h;
D, l),Vandeventer Ave., from $ 8, R. from $ IV2; Hotel Rosiek (PL y; G, 2),
cor. of 13th and Olive Sts., R. from $ 1.
Restaurants. FausVs, cor. Elm St. and Broadway ; restaurants at the
^Southern and most of the other hotels ; Mc Tague, Pine & 9th Sts. ; Lippe,
Olive & 8th Sts., all these first-class and frequented by ladies; Caesar^
210 N. 6th St.; American Gaf6, Olive & 6th Sts.; San Antonio, Market <fe
7th Sts. ; Speck's Vienna Cafi, 414 Market St. ; WhUe, 313 Pine St. and 918
Olive St.; Locust Inn, Locust <fe Tth Sts.; JVaffeVs, St. Charles & 6th Sts.,
for men. — Luncheon Rooms of the Delicatessen Co., 124 & 718 Olive St.,
116 N. 4th St., 716 N. Broadway, & 1902 Locust St.; of the Stilwell Catering
Co., 921, 1013, 1214, & 2621 Olive St., 219 Locust St., & 517 Chestnut St. ;
Victoria, Locust & 8th Sts.; Pierce, Pine & 4th Sts.; Compton''s, 220 K
7th St, ; Schroeder's, 210 N. 7th St.; Childs\ St. Charles <fe 7th Sts.; Broad-
way Caf6, 203 N. Broadway; restaurants at the large Dry Goods Stores.
Tramways (electric) traverse the city in all directions and extend to
many suburban points (fare within the city-limits 5 c., beyond, 5 c. more).
In running E. and W. it is easy for the passenger to recognize his where-
abouts by the numbers on the houses ; thus, 916 Olive St. must be between
9th and 10th Sts. The St. Louis tram - cars are excellent, and some of
them can be used either closed or open. — Carriages. With one horse, for
1 M. 25 c. for each pers., each addit. mile 25 c. for 1-2 pers.j per hr.
(1-2 pers.) 75 c., outside the 3 M. radius $1. With two horses, 90 c. each
for 1st mile, 25 c. each for each addit. mile, per hr. $ I'/z, each addit. hi-.
$ 1. Each package carried outside 10 c. Waiting (one stop of 5 min. free)
10 c. per 10 min., 75 c. per hour. — Ferries to East St. Louis from foot of
Market St., Carr St., and Spruce St. — Steamers ply to points on the
Mississippi, Missouri, Ohio, Illinois, Tennessee, etc.
Theatres. Olympic (PL H, 2), Broadway; Centw-y (PL G, 2), Olive St.;
Gayety (PL G, 2), Locust St., cor. of 14th St. ; EavlinViFl. G, H, 2), Standard
(PL G, H, 2), Walnut St. ; Imperial (PL G, 2), cor. of Pine and 10th Sts. ;
Columbia (PL H, 2), cor. of St. Charles and 6th Sts.; Grand Opera (PL H, 2),
Market St. (continuous vaudeville performances); American Theatre (PL G,
H, 2), cor Market and 7th Sts. (high class vaudeville); Garrick, 511 Chestnut
St. — The Odeon (PL E, 1), Grand Ave., is a large and fine hall used for
concerts, dramatic performances, etc. (German performances twice weekly).
— A large Coliseum, for exhibitions, concerts, and conventions, is to be
erected at the corner of Washington and Jefferson Aves. (PL F, 2). — The
following are Summer Theatres : The Suburban, at the terminus of the
St. Louis & Suburban Railway, Forest Park Highlands (PL B, 2, 3)-, Koer-
ner's Gardens, 4900 Arsenal St. ; Delmar Garden, Delmar Boul. (PL A, B, 1) ;
West End Heights, near the S.W. corner of Forest Park. — Theatre-tickets
may be bought in advance at Bellman's, 1120 Olive St.
Clubs. St. Louis, 3633 Lindell Boul. ; University, 607 N. Grand Ave. ;
Union, cor. of Jefl"erson & Lafayette Aves. ; Columbian, 3919 Lindell Ave.,
Hebrew; Noonday, 319 N. 4th St.; Mercantile, Locust & 7th Sts., these two
'down town' lunching clnbs,; Liederkranz, Grand and Magnolia Aves., Ger-
man; Women'' s Club, next door to the University Club; Wednesday Club
(for women), cor. Taylor and Washington Aves.; Missouri Athletic Club,
cor. of 4th S'. & Washington Ave., with fine baths and gymnasium; Racquet
Club, King highway, near McPherson Ave., for indoor sports. — Among
the chiei Country Clubs near St Louis are the -S^. Louis Country Club, at
Clayton, 8 M, to the W, of the city; the Field Club, with golf links, at Bissell,
Baedeker's United States. 4th Edit. 26
412 RouU 63. ST. LOUIS. History.
to the N. of St. Louis; Normandie Park; Glen Echo; Florissant Valley; Al-
gonquin; and the Meramec Canoe Club,
Newspapers. Olobe-Democrat (Re^ub.), a widely known sheet; Republic
(Dem.); Post - Despatch CIndependent Dem. ; evening); St. Louis Star and
CAromcZe (Independent; ev'g.); TFes^Mc^e Pos^ (Independent; German; m'g.);
Times (Independent; ev'g.).
Post Office (PI. G, 2), Olive St., open 7-11 (Sun. 9-12).
Consuls. British, Mr. Thomas Erskine, 620 Chemical Building; German,
Herr Max von Loehr. 4th and Olive Sts. — Business Men's League (see.,
W. F. Saunders), 704 Locust St. (information willingly given to strangers).
St. Louis (4-500 ft. above the sea), the largest city of Missouri
and the fonrth of the United States, lies on the W. hank of the
Mississippi, abont 20 M. below the mouth of the Missouri. It has a
frontage of nearly 20 M. on the river and rises from it in three ter-
races, the third of which is about 200 ft. above the river-level. The
city is regularly laid out, on the Philadelphia plan, Market St.,
running E. and W., being the dividing line between N. andS. The
streets running N. and S. are numbered, though many of them are
also known by names. Broadway or Fifth Street is the chief shop-
ping thoroughfare, while other important business streets are Fourth
St. (banks), Olive St. (retail trade), Washington Ave. (retail and
wholesale trade). Third St. (printing-offices), and 1st (or Main) and
2nd Streets (along the river; commission houses). The city is also
divided into a N. and a S. section by the valley of Mill Creek (now
filled in), which is spanned by seven bridges. The city has recently
extended greatly to the W., and commerce is steadily encroaching
on the residential quarters. The population of St. Louis in 1900
was 575,238, including about 100,000 Germans and 35,000 negroes
(now prob. 750,000).
History. The fur-trading station of St. Louis or Pain Court was estab-
lished by the French in 1756, and it still bears traces of its French origin
in the names of some of its streets and leading families. Louis XV. had
just ceded the territory to the E. of the Missis-^ippi to England, while at
the same time he had made a secret treaty, transferring the W. bank to
Spain. It was not till 1770, however, that Spanish authority was estab-
lished at St. Louis. In 1804 St. Louis, the population of which was still
below 1000, passed to the United States, with the rest of the territory then
known as Louisi.ma. This was the signal for immigration from the States'
and the English-speaking inhabitants soon outnumbered the French.
St, Louis was incorporated in 18U9 and by 1831 had 6000 inhabitants. In
1840 the population had swollen to 16,469, in 1S59 to 185,000, in 1880 to
350,522, and in 1890 to 451,770. On May 27th. 1896, St. Louis was visited
by a terrific tornado, which destroyed 3(X) lives and property to the value
of $ 10,000,000. The floods of 1903 "raised the river 38 ft., broke the levee,
and did great damage in E. St. Louis (p. 409). In 1904 St. Louis was the
scene of the Louisiana Purchase Exposition, held to commemorate the cent-
enary of the purchase of Louisiana from France (see above). — During
the so-called Fall Festivities one night is devoted to the Procession of fhe
Veiled Prophet, in ihe style nf the Mardi Gras at New Orleans (p. 633).
The ball in honour of the Veiled Prophet, held in the Merchants' Ex-
change fp, 413), is the society event of the year.
Trade and Industry, St. Louis' position in the centre of the great
Mississippi Valley gives it an immense trade, among the staples of which
are bread -stuflfs, packed meats, tobacco, livestock, timber, grain, wool,
furs, etc. In manufactures St. Louis ranks fourth among American cities,
Court House. ST. LOUIS. 6'.'). Route. 413
producinn goods in 1906 valued at $281,67i;,B9G (r)6,;336.319 /.) and employing
llKi,648 hands. It is the chief tohacco-niakin!: city in the world (8il million
pounds annually), and also produces iMunenac tuiantities of lieer (il,5(H3,(XX)
barrels annually; comiv bolow), tlour, hoots and slioes ('J2,(KX), (XX) pairs in
1907), hardware, stoves, railway and tramway cars, wootiin wares, hrieks,
chemicals, drufs, hiscuits ('crackers), etc. Tlie Au/K'tiscr-Btinc/i Britccrii (PI.
O i), cor. ot" 9th and Pestalo/zi Sts., employs litXK) men and produces
1,8(X),(K)(1 harrels of heer annually. Strangers may also he ijiteresled hy
visits to the Horse <{■ Mule Mark,'} i K. St. Louis; one o( the pireatest mule
markets in the world; con»p. p. f)68); to the Simmons Unrdirare Co. (ware-
house at Cupples Station); and to the (>/;)/>/<•.< }yood,'ii Ware Co. The last-
named is also at C'/;);>/tv Sta/ion (PI. G, J), a lar^je ^oods-station at the
corner of Spruce * 7th Sts., flurrounded hy a group of hu{je buildiniis
constructed to facilitate direct shipment from the warehouses to (he trains.
Cupples Station now belongs to Washinijton University. The Afcpcr Brothers
Drug Co. (4th St. it Clark Ave.; drui;s and perfumes) is also interestini:.
A'Ms/«»e Fu'Ui (l8rx)-95), the poet and journalist, was Imrn in St. I.ouis,
]>rohahly in a house at the corner of 4th & Cerre St. (PI. II, 3).
Tho Court House (Tl. 11, '2"), in Rroaihvay, between Market and
Chestnut Sts., is a substantial bniltling in tho form of a Greek cross.
It is surmounted by a dome (irf)rt. higli), tho pallery of which com-
mands an excellent view of tho city and river (open till i p.m.). Tho
building contains some frescoes by Wiinar (see p. lib). A little to tho
K., in 3rd St., cor. of Cliestnut St., is the Merchants' Exchange (PI.
11, 2), the main hall of which, with a painted coilins:, is 'I'lO ft. long
(business-hours 10-1. If) p.m.; fj;allery open to visitors). The praud
ball of the Veiled Prophet (p. 41*2) is hold here. — The Cotton
Exchmtgc (PI. 11, '2) is at the cori\er of Main and Walnut Sts.
By following Market St. to the W. from tho Court House we
soon reach the square named \yashiuyton 7'arfc, with the City Hall
(PI. G, *2). A little to the S., in the square enclosed by Clark Ave.
and Spruce, llth, and I'^^th Sts., are the so-called Four Courts
(PI. G, 2), built on the model of the Louvre, with a largo semi-
circular gaol at the back. — A little to the N. of the City Hall runs
the busy Olivm Stukkt (PI. K-H, '2), which we may follow to the
right (E.) to Broadway, passing the Post Office (PI. G, '2) on the left.
Among the numerous substantial business-buildings in this j)art of
Olive St. are the Star (N.W. cor. of l'2th St.), CVn/J/ry (0th St. ; N.W.
cor.\ /-moo (9th St. ; S.W.), Chemical (St\\ ^t. \ N.E.), Missouri
Trust (7th St.; N.W. ; view from the roof, adm. 20 c), Commercial
(6th St.; S.E.), Larledr [Ath St. ; S.W.), Commonwealth 7'm,sl( Broad-
way; N.E.), National Bauk of Commerci (Wrondwixy :, S.E.), and Third
National Bank, a large and very line structure. In Broadway (PI.
G, n, 1—1), at the corner of Locust St., is the Mercantile Library
(PI. 11,2), which contains 150,000 vols., statues by Miss Hosmer, etc.
Other important buildings in this businoss-.section of the city
are the Securitij liuildinij (at the S.W. cor. of 4th X- Locust Sts.);
the Mercaritile Trust Co., by Isaac Taylor, at tho N.E. cor. of 8th &
Locust Sts. (with vaults closed by a circular steel door of marvellous
mechanism weighing 4' o^^^"''); *^**> *'^^- Louis L'nio7i Trust Co.., by
J. L. Manran, at the N.W. cornor of 4th & Locust Sts. ; the Mercantile
26*
414 Route 63. ST. LOUIS. Porfcs.
Club (PI. H, 2), S.E. corner of 7tli & Locust Sts. •, tlie Fuhlic Li-
brary (PI. G, 2; 225,000 vols.; comp. below), Locust St., corner of
9th St. ; the Lincoln Trust and Wainwright Buildings^ corner of 7tli
& Chestnut Sts. ; and the Mi8souri Pacific Building, N.W. comer of
Market & 7th Sts.
On the block between 13tb, litb, Olive, and St. Charles Sts. is to be
erected the new Carni-gie Central Library (PI. G, 2). Mr. Andrew Carnegie
gave $ 1,1 00 (!0J towards the cost of this structure and that of several
branch-libraries, ten of which have already been built.
At the corner of Locust and 19th Sts. is the handsome School
of Fine Arts (PI. F, G, 2), which is connected with Washington
University (p. 4151.
The Parks of St. Louis are among the finest in the United States,
and their area (2300 acres) is exceeded by those of Philadelphia
alone. All those named below are easily reached by tramway.
Forest Park (PL A, B, 1, 2 ), on the W. side of the city, 41/2 M.
from the Court House, is the largest park in St. Louis (1370 acres).
It has fine trees and drives, but a great many of the former were
cut down for the Louisiana Exposition (1904), which occupied half
the area of the park. The muddy Des Plres River meanders through
Forest Park, and it also contains several lakes. At the Clayton Ave.
entrance (PI. C, 2) is a statue of Senator Blair. — Among the streets
leading to, and adjoining. Forest Park are several of the so-called
'Places', which rauk among the finest residential streets in the
world. These consist of wide avenues, generally enclosed by orna-
mental gateways at each end, and containing tasteful and well-to-
do-looking houses (often in an Italian style), each standing in its
own grounds. Westmoreland Place, Portland Place (PI. B, 1), and
Vandeventer Place (PL D, E, 1) are characteristic specimens. —
*Tower Grove Park (PL C, D, 4), a long narrow oblong (266 acres)
in the S.W. part of the city, is beautifully laid out and contains
three fine bronze statues (Columbus, *Humboldt, and Shakspeare),
by Ferd. von Miller of Munich. Tower Grove Park is adjoined by
Shaw's or the Missouri Botanical Garden (PL C, 3, 4), the finest
garden of the kind in the United Staates, which was bequeathed
to the city by Mr. Henry Shaw (b. at Sheffield, Eng., in 1800;
d. 1889), the founder of the botanical school in Washington Uni-
versity and also the donor of Tower Grove Park (see above). The
garden (75 acres in extent), which is open to the public on week-
days, is excellently equipped for the purposes of the student and
is also a delightful resort for the layman. At one end of the garden
is Mr. Shaw's House, near which is a mausoleum containing his re-
mains. — A little to the E. is Reservoir Park (PL E, 3), Compton
Heights. — The small Lafayette Park (PL F, 3) suffered greatly
from the tornado (p. 412). It contains a bronze replica of Houdon's
Waf^hington (p. 5561 and a statue of Senator Benton. — Other parks
are Carondelet Park (183 acres), in the S. (comp. PL E, 4), and
O" Fallon Park (158 acres) in the N. part of the city (comp. PL D, 1).
University. ST. LOUIS. 63. Route. 415
Adjoining the latter on the N."W. are the Belle fontaine Cemetery
(350 acres) and Calvary Cemetery (415 acres).
The Fair Grounds (comp. PL E, 1), 140 acres in extent, contain an
amphitheatre, a racecourse, etc.
To the W. of Forest Park, beyond PI. A, 1, is the new home of
*"Wasliington "University, forming one of the most successful and
appropriate groups of collegiate buildings in the New AVorld. They
were designed by Messrs. Cope ^ Stewardson in a Tudor -Gothic
style and enclose several quadrangles. The material is red Missouri
granite.
Among the bnildings already completed are University Hall, the Chemical
and Physical Laboratories^ the Architecpiral and Engineering Buildings, the
CTjopeZ (resemhling King's College Chapel at Cambridge, Eny;Jand), the Library
(with a fine reading-room), various Dormitories, and the Gymnasium (at the
extreme W. end of the university grounds, 110 acres in extent). Among
the chief donors , whose generosity made possible this expansion of the
university, are Mr. Samuel Cupples, Mr. Robt. S. Brookings. Mr. Adolphus
Busch, Mrs. J. E. Liggett, Mrs. Wm. McMillan, and Mrs. Benjamin B.
Graham. — One of the buildings of the Med'cal Department stands in Locust
St. (PI. F, Gr, 2) ; the other buildings, including the fine University Hospital^
are in Jefferson Ave., just N. of Washin^iton Ave. (PI. F, 2). The Dental
Department is at the corner of Beaumont (27th) and Locust Sts. (PL F, 2).
This university is notable for the width of its charter, which includes
an ordinary undergraduate department, schools of engineering, fine arts,
law, medicine, dentistry, and tiotany, a manual training-school, and schools
for boys and girls. It is attended by about 2000 University students and
1000 others.
In Forest Park, not far from the University, is the handsome
Museum of Fine Arts (PI. A, 2; open daily from 8 to sunset, on
Sun. & holidays from 1; adm. 25 c; free on Frid., Sat., Sun., &
holidays), originally erected as the Fine Arts Building of the Loui-
siana Purchase Exposition (p. 412). In front of the entrance is a
colossal equestrian bronze statue of St. Louis, by Ch. H. Niehaus.
The contents include large collection^ of Cants (incl. the iEgina Marbles)
and Electrotype Reproductions and well-chosen selections of Lace, Glass,
Pottery, Mosaics, Ivory Carvings, Wood and Metal Work, etc. It also contains
a good collection of modern American sculptures, besides American paint-
ings, among which are several by Carl Wimar (1829-63), a St. Louis artist
who painted characteristic Western scenes from nature. A collection of
comparative architecture is planned.
The great *St. Louis or Eads Bridge (PL H, 2), across the Mis-
sissippi, is deservedly one of the lions of the city. The visitor may
cross it on foot (toll 5 c.) for the sake of the views up and down
stream, and return by ferry (5 c.) for the view of the majestic arches
of the bridge itself; but part of this walk is not very pleasant.
The bridge, which was designed by Capt. James B. Eads (p. 432), was
constructed in 1869-74 at a cost of $10,000,000 (2,U00.0O(J/.;. It consists
of three steel spans (centre 520ft., other* 502ft. each) resting on massive
limestone piers. The total length is 2070 yds. The bridge !•< built in
two stories, the lower for the railway, the upper for the roadway and
foot-passengers. Trains enter the lower track by a Tunnel, 1630 yds.
long, beginning near the comer of 12th and Cerre Sts. The highest part
of the arches is 55 ft. above the water.
The Merchants' Bridge, 3 M. farther up the river, is a steel truss
bridge, and was built in 1889-90, at a cost of $ 3,000,000. It is used by
railways only. It has three spans, each 500 ft. long and 70 ft. high.
416 Route 63. ST. LOUIS.
[A third bridge (to be ready for use in 1909) is being built between
the Eads Bridge and the Merchants' Bridge.]
The St. Louis Water Works are at Chain of Rocit, to the N. of the
Merchants'' Bridge, and there are water-towers (fine views) in Grand Ave.
and Reservoir Park (p. 414).
Among other buildings of importance in St. Lonis are the
St. Louis University (PI. E , 2) , a Roman Catholic institution in
Grand Ave., with 840 students ; the college-church of St. Xavier^s
(PL E, 2), with a fine interior; the Roman Catholic Cathedral (PL
H, 2), in Walnut St.; Christ Church Cathedral (Epis. ; PL G, 2),
Locust St., cor. of 13th St. 5 the Church of the Redemptorists (Pl.E, 1),
Grand Ave. ; the Holy Trinity Catholic Church (German), cor. of
Mallinckrodt and 14th Sts. (beyond PL G, 1), a large and prominent
building with two spires; the Grand Avenue Presbyterian Church
(PL E, 1); the First Presbyterian Church (PL D, 1), Washington
Boul., cor. of Sarah St. ; the Second Presbyterian Church, cor. of Taylor
Ave. and Westminster Place (PL G, 1), with fine stained-glass vrin-
dows; the Pilgrim Congregational Church, Union Ave., cor. Ken-
sington Ave. (PL B, 1) ; the Church of the Messiah, Union Ave., just
N. of Delmar Boul., near the Congregational Church; All Saints'
Church (PL E, 2), at the corner of Locust St. and Garrison Ave. ;
the Synagogue (PL D, 2), Lindell Boulevard, cor. of Yande venter
Ave. ; the Temple Israel, Kingshighway, cor. Washington BouL (PI.
C, 1); St. John's, the Christian Science Church, and the Second Baptist
Church (a striking example of Italian Gothic), all three in Kings-
highway, near the Temple Israel; the University Club, at the N.W.
corner of Grand and Washington Avenues (PL E, 1) ; the St. Louis
Club, Lindell Boulevard , just to the W. of Grand Ave. (PL D, 2);
the City Insane Asylum (comp. PL B, 4); and the U. S. Arsenal.
Among the favourite pleasure-resorts near St. Louis are Montesano
(reached by boat and railway); Jefferson Barracks^ 12 M. to the S., a mil-
itary post, reached by boat, railway, and tramway; Crystal City (see p. 430);
Crhve Coeur Lake, 20 M. to the N.W., reached by Delmar tram-car (fare
15 c); Piasa Bluffs (boat and rail); and Meramec Highlands (Highlands Inn,
good), reached by rail and tramway (car on Market St. ; fare 10 c). Near
the last is Brownhurst, the estate of Mr. D. S. Brown, containing a splendid
collection of orchids (shown to visitors).
From St. Lodis to Cairo, 150 M., Illinois Central Railway in 5-6 hrs, —
Cairo^ see p. 588
From St. Louis to New Orleans by railway, see R. 93; to St. Paul^
see R. 69; to Chicago, see R. 58; to New York, see R. 62; to Louisville,
see R. 64; to Denver, see R. 63; to Texarkana, see R. 94.
64. From St. Louis to Louisville.
274 M. Southern Railway in 91/4 10 hrs. (fare $8; sleeper $21/2).
St. Louis, see p. 410. The train crosses the Eads Bridge
(p. 415) and runs nearly due E. through Illinois. 18 M. Belleville;
65 M. Centralia (500 ft. ; 6721 inhab.) , the junction of several
railways; 87 M. Mt. Vernon (405 ft.; Rail. Restaurant); 151 M.
WYANDOTTE CAVE. 64. Route. 417
Aft. Carrnel. We now enter Indiana. From (162 M.) Princeton and
(175 M.) Oakland railways run to Evansville (see below). — 199 M
Huntingburg (495 ft.; Rail. Restaurant; 2527 inhab.) is tlie junc-
tion of brancb-lines to (47 M.) Evansville, etc.
Evansville (380 ft. ; St. George^ from $ 3; Acme), a busy city of Indiana,
with 59,000 inhab., lies on the Ohio and carries on an extensive trade in
coal, timber, grain, pork, flour, and tobacco. — About 21 M. to the N.W.
of Evansville, by the 111. Central E. E., is Stewartsville, whence a branch-
line runs to New Harmony (The Tavern, $2), the seat of Robert Dale Owen's
famous Socialistic Colony.
From (240 M.) Milltown we may visit (81/2 M.) the Wyandotte
Cave (see below).
The •Wyandotte Cave, second in size to the Mammoth Cave (p. 585)
only, is its superior in the number and beauty of its stalactites and stalag-
mites. There is a small Hotel ($ I1/2) at the mouth of the cave, and three
regular routes are laid out through the latter, one 10-12 M. long (fee $ i •,
all three routes S 2). The cave may also be reached from (11 M.) Corydon
(see below) or from (5 M.) Leavenworth, on the Ohio.
From (250 M.) Corydon Junction a short line runs to Corydon
(see above). 267 M. New Albany (20,628 inhab.). —The train now
threads a tunnel, crosses a long bridge over the OMo^ and reaches
(274 M.) Louisville, see p. 568.
65. From Chicago to Council Bluffs and Omaha.
a. Vi& Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul Bailway.
492 M. Railway in li-UVz hrs. (fare" $ IO5 sleeper $ 2.50). — This
forms part of the Western Midland Route to California (through-cars from
Chicago to San Francisco and Los Angeles).
Chicago (Canal St. Union Depot), see p. 366. The line runs towards
the W. through a farming district. 37 M. Elgin (700 ft. ; Fosgate,
$2-21/2), a busy city of 22,433 inhab. on the Fox River, with large
watch and other factories. From (80 M.) Davis Junction a line runs
to the N. to (13 M.) Rockford (p. 386). — 138 M. Savanna (570 ft.;
Radke Ho.; Depot, $ 2), on the E. bank of the Mississippi, is the junc-
tion of lines running N. to Dubuque (p. 386) and S. to Rock Island
(p. 420). Our line here crosses the river to (141 M.) Sabula and
enters Iowa (p. 420). 174 M. Delmar Junction (810 ft.) ; 193 M.
Oxford Junction (720 ft.); 228 M. Marion, the junction of a line to
Cedar Rapids (p. 419) and Kansas City (p. 423) and connected by
trolley line with Cedar Rapids (p. 419) ; 282 M. Tama City. From
(348 M.) Madrid and from (378 M.) Hemdon lines^ run to Des
Moines (p. 420), while another line runs to the N. from Hemdon to
the Okoboji Lakes (E. & W.) and (125 M.) Spirit Lake, frequented
summer-resorts. 395 M. Coon Rapids; 427 M. Manilla, junction
of a Une to Sioux City (p. 398); 468 M. Neola.
488 M. Council Bluffs (980 ft.; Grand Hotel, R. from $ 1),
a flourishing city of (1905) 25,231 inhab., at the foot of the bluffs
418 Route 65. OMAHA. From Chicago
of the Missouri, 2^/2 M. to the E. of the river, owes its prosperity
mainly to the fact that it is the principal E. terminus of the great
Union Pacific Railway (see R. 73) and the converging point of the
E. railways connecting with it. Fairmount Park is prettily laid out
and commands fine views. Council Bluffs is connected with Omaha
by two railway-bridges and a road-bridge.
The use of 'Boy Policemen' as a supplement' to the regular force is
an interesting experiment in Council Bluffs.
Our train now runs into the (4891/2 M!.) Union Pacific Transfer
Station and then crosses the Missouri by a substantial Iron Bridge,
more than 1/2 ^- long, erected at a cost of $1,000,000.
492 M. Omaha (1030 ft.; Loyal, R. $1-5; Paxton Ho., from
$ 21/2, R- from $ 1; Rome, R. from $ 1; Henshaw, R. from $ IV2;
Millard, from $21/2, R. from $1; Murray, Merchants", $2-3V2;
D'rexel, $ 2-21/2), the largest city in Nebraska ('Antelope State') and
on the Missouri, with (1900) 102,555 inhab. (now, probably, 175,000),
s situated on a plateau sloping up from the W. bank of the river. The
manufacturingand jobbing district adjoins the river, while the pleasant
residence-quarters occupy the high ground. Among the more important
buildings are the Federal Building, ihe Auditorium (a huge convention
hall), theiVeuj High School, the Burlington Railway Station, the County
Court House, the City Hall, the Omaha Club, the Board of Trade,
the Post Office, several Churches, the T. M. C. A., the F. W. C. A., the
Brandeis Building (with its subway arcades), and the offices of the
Omaha Bee and the New York Li fe Insurance Co. (view from tower). —
The Public Library ^ Museum contains 100,000 vols, and the Byron
Reed collection of coins. — The *Art Collection of Mr. George W.
Lininger, cor. of 18th and Davenport Sts. (reached by Dodge St.
cars to 18th St.; open on Thurs. & Sun., to strangers at other times
also), includes paintings by Guide Reni, Del Sarto, Bouguereau,
Detaille, Meissonier, Schreyer, Lefebvre, and many other modern
masters. — Hanscom Park is a small but picturesque natural park. —
'Seeing Omaha' electric cars and automobiles afford a convenient way
of visiting the sights.
Omaha (the 'Gate City'') owes its commercial importance to its po-
sition as one of the chief gnteways to the West and has grown rapidly
since its foundafion in 1854. Among the chief articles of its trade are
grain, butter, wool, and agricultural implements. Its industries include
smelting (American Smelting & Refining Co.), brewing, distilling, meat-
packing (excelled only by Chicago and Kansas City), machine-shops, and
the making of bricks, gasolene motor-cars for railroad use, and steam-
engines The total value of their products in 1907 (including S. Omaha)
was $ 220,000,000. It is a railway-centre of great importance, being practi-
cally the E. terminus of the Union Pacific Railway and in more or less
direct communication with all the chief cities of the E. and S. — The
festival of Ak-Sav-Ben^ celebrated in autumn, resembles the Mardi Gras
of New Orleans (p. 633). At (4 M.) South Omaha (26,000 inhab.) are the
mmense stockyards and packing houses.
Fort Omaha, just to the N. f)f the city, is the chief signal service,
balloon, and 'wireless' experimental station of the U. S. army. Omaha is
also the headquarters of the military department of the Missouri. — Fort
to Omaha. CEDAR RAPIDS. 65. Route. 419
Crook lies 6 M. to the S. (electric ca-s). — There are good golf links at
the Country Clvb, the Field Club, and the Happy Hollow Club.
From Omaha to Portland^ see R. 74; to Denver, see R. 66.
b. Vift. Chicago and North- Western Railway.
492 M. Railway in 13-16 hrs. (fares as at p. 417). — Through-cars run
to California by this line also.
Chicago (Wells St. Station), see p. 366. This line follows nearly
the same general direction as that just described. 25 M. Wheaton,
wdth Wheaton College (340 students^ and the links of the Chicago Golf
Club; 58 M. Dekalb, with the State Normal School (r.). Beyond
(98 M.) Dixon (720 ft.) we follow the Rock River to (110 M.) Sterling,
a small manufacturing city (6309 inhab.). — From (136 M.) Fulton
Junction, on the E. bank of the Mlssif^sippi, lines run N. to Savanna
(p. 417) and Dubuque (p. 386) and S. to Rock Island (p. 420). We
cross the river by a fine Iron Bridge, 3/4 M. long, enter Iowa, and
reach (138 M.) Clinton (725 ft; Lafayette Inn, $ 2V2-3V2; Revere
Ho., $ 2), a prosperous city with (1905) 22,756 inhab. and extensive
lumber-mills. — 173 M. Wheatland. — 219 M, Cedar Rapids
(745 ft. ; Grand, $2; Delavan, R. from 75 c), a city of (1905)
28,759 inhab., on Red Cedar River, is an important railway-centre
(comp. pp. 387, 417), carries on an extensive trade, and contains
large pork-packing establishments and several manufactories.
At Amana, 20 M. to Ihe S.W. of Cednr Rapids, is situated the largest
and most prosperous Communistic settlement in the cmntry, consisting of
1800 Germans, styling themselves 'Inspira'ionists'. They have saw and
grist mills, produce woollen and cotton fabrics, cultivate 25,000 acres of
land, and keep flocks and herds. All their profits are shared. In their
four churches under one roof are held quaint religious services.
254 M. Belle Plaine ; 270 M. Tama. 326 M. Ames, with the Iowa
Agricultural College (1330 students), is the junction of a line to
(37 M.) Des Moines (p. 420). Beyond (340 M.) Boone (1155 ft.)
we descend rapidly into the valley of the Des Moines River, and the
scenery becomes more interesting. We cross the river near (345 M.)
Moingona. Farther on we again traverse a rich prairie district.
363 M. Grand Junction. At (^400 M.) Maple River Junction we bend
to the left (S.). 406 M. Arcadia (1440 ft. ; 870 above Lake Michigan)
is said to be the highest point in the level state of Iowa. Beyond
(423 M.) Denison we pass through the pretty Boyer Valley. Beyond
(467 M.) Missouri Valley (1020 ft.), the junction of a line from Sioux
City (p. 398), we have good views of the Missouri and its bluffs.
488 M. Council Bluffs, and thence to —
492 M. Omaha, see R. 65 a.
c. Vi& Chicago, Rock Island, and Pacific Railway.
503 M. Railway in 14-20 hrs. (fares as at p. 417). — This line also forms
part of a regular through-service to San Francisco and Los Angeles.
Chicago (Van Buren St. Station), see p. 366. The train runs at
first to the W.S.W. through a great prairie region. — 40 M. Joliet
Baedeker's United States. 4th Edit. 27
420 Route 65. ROCK ISLAND. From Chicago
(540 ft. ; Munroe, St. Nicholas, $ 2), an agrienltural and industrial
centre with 29,353 inhal*. , on tlie Des Plaines River, is the tenninns
of the Illinois and Michigan Canal and the seat of the Illinois State
Penitentiary. In front of the Public Library is a statue of Louis Joliet
(1645-1700), the French explorer, hy S. Ashjomsen. The immense
plant of the Illinois Steel Co. covers 186 acres and is the centre of
probably the most extensive manufacture of barbed wire in the world.
In the vicinity are large limestone quarries, employing 3000 men. —
84 M. Ottawa (10,600 inhab.); 99 M. La Salle (10,450 inhab.);
159 M. Geneseo; 179 M. MoLine.
181 M. Rock Island (470 ft.; Harper Ho., $21/2-4:; Rock Island
Ho., R. from 75 c), an important railway-centre and industrial town
of 19,493 inhab., on the E. bank of the Mississippi. It lies at the foot
of the Moline Rapids, which afford good water-power. The island in
the river from which it takes its name, 970 acres in area, is occupied
by a large United States Arsenal.
From Rock Island the train crosses the Mississippi, by a fine
bridge, enters Iowa (the 'Hawkeye State'), and reaches (183 M.)
Davenport (580 ft. ; Kimball Ho., St. James, $ 2-3V2), tli© third city
of Iowa, with (1905) 39,797 inhab., an important trade in grain and
coal, and numerous manufactories. It is well situated on the slopes
of a bluff rising from the river. It is also the junction of a line to
Kansas City (p. 423). — At (222 M.) West Liberty (665 ft.) we inter-
sect the railway from Burlington to Minneapolis (p. 390). — 237 M.
Iowa City (670 ft.; Burkley Imperial, $2-3; St. James, $2), a busy
city of (1905) 8497 inhab., on the Iowa River, is the seat of the
State University and the State Historical Library (15,000 vols.). —
303 M. Grinnell; 335 M. Colfax (750 ft.), with mineral springs.
358 M. Des Moines (800 ft.; Savery, R. $1-5; Kirkwood, R.
from 75 c; Victoria, R. $3/4-2), the capital of Iowa, is a city of
[1905) 75,626 inhab., situated at the confluence of the Des Moines
and Raccoon Rivers, at the head of navigation of the former. It is
an important railway- centre and carries on a considerable trade and
several manufactures (value of products in 1900, $ 10,488,000).
Among the chief buildings are the State Capitol (erected at a cost of
$3,000,000; rebuilt after a fire in 1904), the Post Office, the City
Hall, the Grand Opera House, Drake University (1760 students), and
the State Library (50,000 vols.). The name of city and river seems,
in spite of appearances, to be of Indian origin.
The train continues to run towards the W. Beyond (479 M.)
Neola we descend to the level of the Missouri.
499 M. Council Bluffs, and thence to —
503 M. Omaha, see R. 65 a.
to Omaha. BURLINGTON. 65. Route. 421
d. Vi& Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy Bailroad.
500 M. Railway in 14-17 hrs. (fares aa at p. 417).
Chicago (Canal St. Union Depot), see p. 366. Tlie line runs at first
towards the S.W., througli a ricli farming district similar to those
mentioned at p. 420.
37 M. Aurora (p. 386) ; 83 M. Mendota (750 ft.); 163 M. Gales-
lurg (790 ft. ; Union, $ 2-3 ; Arlington, R. from 50 c. ; Rail. Restau-
rant), an important railway- centre, with 18,607 inhab., two flonrishing
colleges, various industries, and a trade in agricultural produce. —
From (205 M.) Carthage Junction the train crosses the Mississippi
to —
206 M. Burlington (525 ft.; Delano, $2-3; Union, $2), the
seventh city of Iowa, with (1905) 25,318 inhab. and a considerable
trade by river and railway. The city is regularly laid out, with the
business-quarters on the river-bottom and the residence- quarters on
the bluffs above. The Burlington Institute, the Free Public Library
(35,000 vols.) , and the County Court House are among the chief
buildings. — The line now ascends towards the W. 233 M. Mt. Plea-
sant (725 ft.), with two Methodist colleges and a large Insane Asylum ;
280 xM. Ottumwa (630 ft.), on the Des Moines, with (1905) 20,181 in-
hab. and considerable trade and industry ; 304 M. Albia (945 ft.), the
junction of a line to (68 M.) Des Moines (p. 420) ; 360 M. Osceola
(1125 ft.). Beyond (393 M.) Creston (1250 ft.) the line descends
towards the Missouri Bottom. 444 M. Bed Oak (1030 ft), the junction
of a line to (52 M.) Nebraska City; 479 M. Pacific Junction (960 ft.).
496 M. Council Bluffs and thence to —
500 M. Omaha, see R. 65 a.
e. Vi& Illinois Central Eailroad.
516 M. Railway in 14V2 hrs. (fares as at p. 417).
Chicago (Illinois Central Station), see p. 366. This line, running
nearly due W., passes through the N. portions of Illinois and Iowa.
From (114 M.) Freeport branch-railways run to (66 M.) Dodgeville
and to (62 M.) Madison (p. 385). Between (166 M.) Galena and
(183 MS) Dubuque (see p. 386) we cross the Mississippi. From (230 M.)
Manc/iester a branch-line runs to (42 M.) Cedar Rapids (p. 419); and
from (276 M.) Waterloo another leads to (109 M.) Albert Lea (p. 386).
At (374 M.) Forf Doc/^e (14,369 inhab. in 1905; Buncombe, $2-
2V2; Logan, $ 2), a thriving town, the railway divides, the N. portion
leading to (451 M.) Cherokee, where it again divides for (510 M.)
Sioux aty (p. 398) and for (547 M.) Sioux Falls (p. 398). From Fort
Dodge another branch-line runs N. to Albert Lea (p. 386). The main
Una bends to the S.W. to (512 M.) Council Bluffs and (516 M.)
Omaha (p. 418).
27^
422
66. From Omaha to Denver.
a. Vi&, Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy Eailroad.
53S M. Eauwat in 15 lirs. (fare $17; sleeper $3.50). Through- cars
from Chicago.
Omaha, see p. 418. The line runs towards the S."W. and crosses
the Platte River. — 31 M. Ashland.
55 M. Lincoln [Lincoln, Lindell, E. $ V2-2V2; 'Windsor, R.
$ V2-IV2; Capitol, R. $72-1), tl^e capital of Nebraska and second
city in the state, with (1900) 40,169 inhah., is an important railway,
industrial, and commercial centre. Among the chief huildings are the
Capitol, the State Insane Asylum, the Penitentiary, the University of
Nebraska (3130 students), and several other educational institutions.
Feoii Lincoln to Billings, S38 M., railway (Burlington Route) in 29 hrs.
This line is an important through-route for passengers for the Yellow-
stone Park and the Pacific Coast. We first traverse a farming region,
passing numerous small stations. — Beyond (4'r2 31.) Edgemont (4450 ft.),
junction of a branch-line to Deadwood (see below), the Billings line
traverses a grazing country. !Not far from (^4 M.) ifinturn, on the Belle
Fourche River, is the carious DeviVs Tower or Bear Lodge, a natural obelisk
of columnar basaltic rock, 1200 ft. high and tapering from a diameter of
800 ft. at the bottom to 375 ft. at the top. It is supposed to be the neck
or plug of an extinct volcano, of which the crater has been removed
by erosion. — 694 M. Sheridan. About 20 M. to the W. rise the Bighorn
Mts., with their curious cirques and crags, culminating in Cloud Peak
(13, 165 ft.). — From (767 M.) Grow Agency we may visit (2V2 M.) the scene of
the Custer Massacre (p. 440), now a national cemetery. — From (793 M.)
Toluca a branch -line runs to (129 M.) Cody, the nearest railway-station for
the E. road into Yellowstone Park (see pp. 449, 457). At (838 M.) Billings we
join the Northern Pacific Railway (see p. 440).
Fkom Edgemont to Deadwood. 107 M., railway in 6 hrs. — 29 M. Hot
Springs (3450 ft.; The Evans, S2'/z-5), the water of which (98° Fahr.) is
beneficial for rheumatism and cutaneous and stomachic diseases. There is
a large Soldiers' Home here. — 99 M. Englewood, the junction of a branch-
line to (31 M.) Spearfish, in a *Canvon rivalling those of Colorado (pp.473,
494, etc.). - 107 M. Deadwood (4540" ft. 5 Franklin, R. $ 1-2), the chief town
(4365 inhab. in 1905) in the important mining district of the Black Hills^
in S. Dakota. A striking view is obtained from White Rock (just above the
town) of the plains and a great butte rising from them.
103 M. Fairmont; 152 M. Hastings, with 7188 inhah.; 206 M.
Holdrege, the junction for the line to Cheyenne (p. 460); 229 M. Ox-
ford, on the Republican, the junction of the line from St. Louis (p. 410).
At ('283 M.) Mc Cook the time changes to the 'Mountain' standard
(p. xviii). The country is now less thickly settled. We enter Colorado
(p. 471) at (356 M.) Haigler. 426 M. Akron. At (474 M.) Corona
we have our first glimpse of Pike's Peak (p. 491) and the Rocky Mts.
Farther on Long's Peak (p. 473) is prominent to theN. — In approach-
ing Denver we pass the large smelting -works of Argo (p. 473).
538 M. Denver, see p. 471.
b. Vi& Chicago, Rock Island, and Pacific Bailway.
580 M. Railwat in 16-18 hrs. (fares as above), — This is part of the
Western Midland Route to California (comp. p. 417).
Omaha, see p. 418. The route is much the same as that above
KANSAS CITY. 67. Route 423
described. — 58 M. Lincoln, seep. 422; 116 M. Fairbury. At
(149 M.) Belleville we are joined by the line from Kansas City
(see below). Mountain time is reached at (244 M.) Phillipsburg, and
Colorado (p. 471) is entered at (383 M.) Ooodland. 490 M. Limon
is the junction of the line to Colorado Springs (p. 488).
580 M. Denver, see p. 471.
c. ViS. Union Pacific Railroad.
572 M. Railway in 14 hrs. (fares as at p. 422).
From Omaha to (375 M.) Julesburg, see R. 73. Our train here
diverges to the left from the main line to Ogden and Portland and
follows the course of the Platte River. 432 M. Sterling (3920 ft.);
526 M. La Salle (4660 ft.).
572 M. Denver, see p. 471.
67. From Chicago to Kansas City.
a. Yik Atchison, Topeka, and Santa F^ Bailway.
458 M. Railway in I2V2-I4V2 lirs. (fare $12.50; sleeper $2.50, tourist
car $ 1.25). This line forms part of the through Santa Fi Route from Chicago
to California (comp. p. 476).
From Chicago (Dearborn Station) to (41 M.) Joliet this line follows
practically the same route as that described R. 65 c. — Beyond
(54 M.) Blodgett we cross the Kankakee. — 94 M. Streator (14,079
inhab.). At (100 M.) Ancona the line forks, the left branch running
to St. Louis (p. 410). At (134 M.) Chillicothe (Rail. Restaurant) we
cross the Illinois River and the Rock Island Railway. — 182 M. Gales-
burg (p. 421). — At (229 M.) Dallas we reach the Mississippi, which we
cross at ("236 M.) East Fort Madison. — ^237 M. Fort Madison (Anthes,
Metropolitan, $2; Rail. Restaurant), on the W. bank of the Mississippi,
in Iowa (p. 420), is a thriving city with (19051 8767 inhabitants.
The line bends to the S.W. and near (257 M.) iJumas crosses the Des
Moines River and enters Missouri (p. 430). — 352 M. Marceline (Rail.
Restaurant). From (416 M.) Lexington Junction a branch-line runs
to St. Joseph (p. 425) and Atchison Tp. 476). Our line now crosses
the Missouri. 455 M. Grand Avenue (Kansas City).
458 M. Kansas City. — Baltimore Hotel, R. $ 1V2-5 ; Coates, $ 2V2-5,
R. from $1; KoppEB, from $21/2, R. from $1; Densmobe, from $2'/2, R.
from $1; Midland, R. $1-31/2; Savoy $ 2V2-3, R. $ l-2V2j Victoria, $2-
2V2, R from $ I. — ^Seeing Kansas City Cars leave the cor. of 9th & Main
Sts. at 1.80 p.m. (fare 50 c).
British Vice-Consul, Mr. E. V. Graham.
Kansas City (780 ft.), the second city of Missouri, with (1900)
163,752 inhab., lies on the S. bank of the Missouri, just below the
influx of the Kansas River. It had only 3500 inhab. in 1865, but is
now an important industrial, commercial, and railway- centre (value
424 Route 67. MUSKOGEE. From Chicago
of manufactures in 1900, $ 36,527,392). Among the most prominent
buildings are the Court Eouse^ the City Hall, the Federal Building,
the Public Library, the Board of Trade, the Corivention Building
(15,000 seats) , the Willis Wood Theatre, and the First National
Bank. The Missouri is crossed here by three fine bridges. Among
the most attractive features of the extensive system of parks and
boulevards are the *Paseo, Swope Park, and Penn Valley Park.
On the W., Kansas City, Missouri, is adjoined by Kansas City, Kansas
(^Grund, E.. from $ 1 ; Metropolitan, $ 2), at the mouth of the Kansas River, the
largest city in Kansas, with (1907) 80,522 inhab. and the second-largest
stockyards and packing-houses (Armour, etc.) in the country (annual value
of products $ 100,00 ),000).
Feom Kansas Citt to (507 M.) Foet Worth, (517 M.) Dallas, (785 M.)
San Antonio, (834 M.) Houston, and (8S4 M.) Galveston, Missouri, Kansas,
and Texas Railway in 173/4 hrs., 171/2 hrs., 29 hrs., 29V4 hrs., and 3174 hrs.
This railway traverses Oklahoma and affords a direct route to points in
Texas, passing through an agricultural and m^ining district. Its extreme If.
termini are St. Louis (p. 410) and Hannibal (p. 425). Passengers from St. Louis
join it at (137 M.) Parsons. The line forks here, one branch going through
Central Oklahoma tn Guthrie and Oklahoma Citv (see p. 476). — Beyond
(iOOM.) Cheiopa we enter Oklahoma (see p. 476). 189 M. Vinita; 238M. Wagoner.
— 254 M. Muskogee (Kati/ Hotel, $2), with (1900) 4254 inhab., is the seat of
the U. S. Indian Agency for the Five Tribes (p. 47ti), of an Indian University,
and of some Indian schools. Visits may be made hence to Tahlequah and
Okmulgee, two centres of Indian life. From Muskogee a branch-line runs
to Tulsa and other points in the oil-district, connecting at (84 M.) Osage
City (p. 427) with the line from Parsons to Oklahoma City (see above). At
(316 M.) South McAlester (Rail. Restaurant) we cross a railway from Memphis
to Oklahoma (p. 476). — 360 M. Atoka., one of the chief cities of the Choctaw
Nation (p. 476), is the junction of a line to (14 M.) Coalgaie, a mining town
with 2614 inhab., and (133 M.) Oklahoma (p. 47ii). |From Coal^ate we may
go by train to Tishomingo (Capitol, $2) and Ardmore (5681 inhab.), two of
the chief cities of the Chickasaws (p. 476).] 892 M. Durant. — At (411 M.)
Dew'son., a railway-centre with 11,807 inhab., we enter Texas (p. 552). The
line forks here, one branch running to (507 M.) Fort Worth, the other
to (517 M.) Dallas (see p. 637). The two lines unite again at (562 M. ;
55 M. from Fort Worth) HiUsboro. — 834 M. Houston, see p. 594; 884 M.
Galveston, see p. 594.
b. Yik Chicago and Alton Railroad.
489 M. Railway in 15 hrs. (fares as at p. 423). Dining-cars.
From Chicago to (126^/2 M.) Bloomington, see R. 58 b. The Kansas
City line diverges to the right from that to St. Louis. — 1711/2 M.
Mason City, with Memorial University. — 2 1 6 M. Jacksonville (620 ft. ;
Dunlap Ho., Pacific, from $2), a city of 15,078 inhab., with two col-
leges and several State asylums. — 237 M. Roodhouse, the junction
of a line to Godfrey (p. 400). Beyond (243 M.) Drake we cross the
Illinois River, and bevond (266 M.) Pleasant Hill we cross the Mis-
sissippi and enter Missouri (p. 430). — 302 M. Vandalia. Near
(326 M.) Mexico (800 ft.), the junction of a line to Jefferson City
(p. 427), is Florida, the birthplace of Mark Twain (Sam. L. Clemens;
b. 1835). Beyond (381 M.) Glasgow (630 ft.) we cross the Missouri.
434 M. Higginsville-, 4.S7M. Grand Avenue (p. 423).
489 M. Kansas City, see p. 423.
to Kansas City. HANNIBAL. 67. Route. 425
c. Vi& Wabash Bailroad.
512 M. Railway in 22 hrs. (fares as at p. 423). Dining-cars.
From Chicago (Dearborn Station) to (173 M.) Decatur, wbere our
line diverges from tbat to St. Louis (p. 410), see K. 58 c. — The next
important station is (213 M.) Springfield (p. 400). 246 M. Jack-
sorhville (p. 424). At (267 M.) Naples we cross the Rlinois River.
Beyond (301 M.) Kinderhook we cross the Mississippi and reach
(313 M.) Hannibal (470 ft; Mark Twairh, $21/2-31/25 ^nion Depot
Hotel, $2-21/2, R. from 75 c.), in Missouri, a river-port and rail-
way-centre (comp. p. 430), with 12,780 inhab., a brisk trade in
tobacco, timber, and farm-produce, and numerous manufactories.
About 1 M. to the S. is the Eannihal Cave, immortalized in 'Tom
Sawyer', which runs for miles under the bluffs and the Mississippi
itself. — From (383 M.) Moherly (880 ft. ; 8012 inhab.) a branch-
line runs to (57 M.) Kirksville, with the original American School of
Osteopathy (700 students). 422 M. Brunswick (630 ft.). We now
have a view of the Missouri to the left. 446 M. Carrollton; 470 M.
Lexington Junction (p. 423). We skirt the N. bank of the Missouri
and cross it at (510 M.) Harlem.
512 M. Kansas City, see p. 423.
d. Vi& Chicago, Bock Island, and Pacific Bailway.
517 M. Railway in I41/2 hrs. (fares as at p. 423). Dining-cars (meals a
la carte).
From Chicago to (183 M.) Davenport, see R. 65 c. Our line here
diverges to the left from the Omaha line and runs towards the S.W.
210 M. Muscatine (545 ft), on the W. bank of the Mississippi (p. 429).
At (231 M.) Columbus Junction (585 ft.) we cross the Red Cedar
River, and at (294 M.) Eldon the Des Moines River. At (378 M.)
Lineville we enter Missouri (p. 430). 449 M. Altamont, the junction
of a line to St. Joseph (see below). At (462 M.) Cameron Junction we
diverge to the left from the line to Leavenworth (p. 470) and Atchison
(p. 476). 492 M. Kearney (635 ft); 516 M. Harlem (see above).
517 M. Kansas City, see p. 423.
e. Vis. Chicago Great Western Bailway.
597 M. Railway in 21-24 hrs. (fares as at p. 423). Dining-cars.
From Chicago to (240 M.) Oelwein, where we diverge to the left
(S.) from the line to Minneapolis and St. Paul, see p. 387. 266 M.
Waterloo (City, from $2; Southern, $2), a busy little town with
12,580 inhab. ; 314 M. Marshalltown. — 372 M. Des Moines, see
p. 420. — At (427 M.) Afton Junction we intersect the Burlington
and Quincy Railroad. Beyond (463 M.) Blockton we enter Missouri
(p. 430). 491 M. Conception, the junction of a line to Omaha (p. 418).
528 M. St. Joseph {Metropole, $2-4; St. Charles, $2-3), a city
of 102,979 inhab., on the E. bank of the Missouri, is an important
426 Route 67. QUINCY.
railway-centre and has immense stockyards, numerous factories (vahie
of products in 1900, $31,690,736), and a large trade. The City Hall
is a handsome building. — The train now descends on the E. bank
of the Missouri. 548 M. Dearborn^ the junction for Atchison (p. 476),
on the other side of the river; 566 M. Leavenworth (p. 470).
597 M. Kansas City, see p. 423.
f. Via, Burlington Eoute.
488 M. Chicago, Burlington, and QuiNcr Railkoad in 14^/4 trs.
(fares, etc., as at p. 423).
From Chicago to (163 M.) Galesburg, see R. 65 d. Our line
diverges from that to Omaha (p. 421) and runs towards the S. 191 M.
Bushnell ; 24 L M. Camp Point.
262 M. Quincy [Newcomb, $ 21/2-31/2; TremontHo., $ 2-3), with
36,252 inhab., lies on a high bluff on the E. bank of the Mississippi.
It carries on a brisk trade, and its manufactures in 1900 were valued
at $ 9,234,988. — 264 M. West Quincy, on the opposite bank of the
river, is in Missouri (p. 430), We now follow the tracks of the Han-
nibal and St. Joseph Railroad. Ill M. Palmyra Junction, for the line
to (15 M.) Hannibal (p. 425); 333 M. Macon; 392 M. Chillicothe. At
(435 M.) Cameron the line forks, one branch leading to St. Joseph
(p. 425). Our line runs to the S. by the route described above.
488 M. Kansas City, see p. 423.
g. Yik Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul Railway.
498 M. Railwat in 143/4-15 hrs, (fares, etc., as at p. 423). This forms
part of a through-route to San Francisco.
From Chicago to (138 M.) Savanna, see R. 65 a. Our line here
diverges to the left (S.) from that to Omaha (p. 417). 145 M. Fulton;
180 M. MoUne; 183 M. Rock Island (p. 420); 186 M. Davenport
(p. 420); 210 xM. Muscatine (p. 429). At (292 M.) Ottumwa (p. 421)
we cross the Des Moines River. Beyond (348 M.) Seical we enter
Missouri (p. 430). 412 M. Chillicothe ; 458 M. Lawson, the junction
for St. Joseph (p. 425) ; 465 M. Excelsior Springs (Benton , from
$21/2; Snapp's, $21/2-5; Chadwick, $2, R. from $1).
498 M. Kansas City, see p. 423.
68. From St. Louis to Kansas City and Denver.
1041 M. MissocKi Pacific Railway to (283 M.) Kansas City in 7-10 hra.
(fare $7.50-, sleeper $2)^ thence to (1041 M.) Denver in 27 hrs. (through-
fare $25.65; sleeper $5.50).
Kansas City may also be reached from St. Louis by the Wabash R. R.
(277 M.), the Chicago and Alton R. R. (323 M.), and the Chicago, Burlington,
and Quincy R. R. (337 M.); while from Kansas City to Denver the tourist
may also travel by the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fi Railway (752 M.), the
SEDALIA. 68. Route. 427
Union Pacific Railway (639 M. ; see R. 75 a), the Chicago^ Rock Island, and
Pacific Railway (633 M.), and the G. B. d; Q. R. R. (654 M.). Over all these
routes run through-cars for various large Western cities.
St. Louis, see p. 410. At (45 M.) Ldbadie (600ft.) we reaeli
the Missouri River, which flows on our right for the next 80 M. —
125 M. Jefferson City (625ft.; Madison Ho., $2-3; Monroe Ho.,
$ 2 ; Rail. Restaurant) , the capital of Missonri , is a prosperons
place of 9664 inhabitants. The State Capitol, bnilt in 1858-60,
was enlarged in 1887-88. — A little farther on we leave the river.
188 M. Sedalia (890 ft.; Huckins, $2-21/2; The Antlers, from $2)
is a busy industrial city of 15,231 inhabitants.
The line forks at Sedalia, the left branch leading to Kansas City via
Pleasant Hill (see below), while the ria;ht branch runs via (56 M.) Lexington
(735 ft.), a place of 4190 inhab., on the S. bank of the Missouri.
At (249 M.) Pleasant Hill the line forks again.
The left branch, which affords an alternative route to Pueblo and
Denver (1064 M. from St. Louis), runs via Fort Scott, Eldorado, and
Wichita (p. 476), joining the route described below at Oeneseo (512 M. from
St. Louis).
We follow the right branch. 273 M. Independence.
283 M. Kansas City, see p. 423.
Our line now runs towards the S., entering Kansas at (310 M.)
Newington. At (344 M.) Ossawatomie (3586 inhab. in 1907; Rail.
Restaurant), the Kansas home of John Brown (monument), we turn
to the right (W.). 365 M. Ottawa (900 ft.; The Tavern, Marsh, $2),
a summer-resort with (^1907) 7437 inhab.; 379 M. Lomax, the junc-
tion of a line to (39 M.) Topeka (p. 470) ; 397 M. Osage City (1075 ft. ;
2679 inhab. in 1907) ; 435 M. Council Grove (1240 ft. ; 2493 inhab.
in 1907). — From (488 M.) Gypsum City (Rail. Restaurant) a loop-
line runs to (17 M.) Salina (9060 inhab. in 1907) and back to (42 M.)
Marquette. — 531 M. Marquette. At (550 M.) Geneseo we are joined
by the line from Pleasant Hill mentioned above. We are now ascend-
ing the basin of the Arkansas River^ which, however, flows far to
the S. of the railway. At (584 M.) HoisingtonwQ change from 'Central'
to 'Mountain' time (1 hr. slower; p. xiv). 641 M. Brownell; 707 M.
Scott City; 756 M. Horace. At (771 M.) Towner we enter Colorado
(p. 471). Beyond (791 M.) Brandon we cross Big Sandy Creek.
846 M. Arlington; 901 M. Boone.
923 M. Pueblo, see p. 492. — Beyond Pueblo we follow the line
of the Denver and Rio Grande R. R. (see R. 77 a).
1041 M. Denver, see p. 471.
69. From St. Paul to New Orleans by the Mississippi
River.
The Mississippi, the 'Father of Waters', is one of the great rivers of
the world, with a length of 2616 M. (or, reckoned from the source of the
Missouri, of 4190M.) and a drainage-basin nearly IV-^ million sq.M. in area.
It rises in the N. part of Minnesota, on the watershed between Hudson's
428 Route 69. PRESCOTT. Mississippi
Bay and the Gulf of Mexico, and is a stream 12 ft. wide and 2 ft. deep
after issuing from Lake Itasca. At first it runs towards the N.E., but
soon turns towards the S.E., and its general course afterwards runs nearly
due S., though with many bends and curves. The principal tributaries
are the Missouri, which joins it from the W. about 1330 M. from its
source; the Ohio, which comes in from the E. 2'20 M. farther on; and the
Arkansas (W.). The best scenery is between St. Paul and St. Louis, where
the river frequently flows between lofty and picturesque bluffs, 100-600 ft.
high and 1-5 M. apart. The finest reaches are between St. Paul and
Dubuque. After its junction with the Missouri the waters of the Mis-
sissippi become yellow and turbid, and it flows mainly through a flat
and monotonous alluvial plain. As we near the Gulf of Mexico the vege-
tation becomes more and more tropical in character, and the river finally
loses itself in a wilderness of creeks, bayous, and swamps, reaching the
gulf through several outlets. The width of the Mississippi from St. Paul
to New Orleans seldom varies much from 3000 ft,, except at the bends,
where it sometimes expands to 1 M. or IVz M. — The United States
Government has spent many millions of dollars in improving the navi-
gation of the Mississippi, which is still apt to be interfered with by
shallows and mud-banks; and a continuous 14-foot channel is now being
made as far up as St. Louis. A very important work was the construction
of the famous Eads Jetties (see p. 432) at one of the mouths of the river.
Another mouth has recently been deepened and canalized. — The first
European explorer of the Mississippi was Be Soto (1541), who is supposed
to have reached it a little below Helena (p. 431). — See 'Highways and
Byways of the Mississippi Valley'', by Clifton Johnson (1906).
Though there is a considerable traffic of smaller vessels above the
Falls of St. Anthony (p. 391), the navigation proper of the Mississippi begins
at Si. Paul. The steamers of the Diamond Jo Line leave St. Paul twice
weekly in summer for (729 M.) St. Louis, which they reach in SVa days
(fare § 16, incl, berth and meals). At the time of going to press there
were no passenger-steamers plying from St, Louis to New Orleans; but
as the service may be resumed at any time, and as steamers ply upon
various sections of the route (e.g. between Vicksburg and Greenville), the
description in the following pages has been left as if steamers still ran
the whole distance. In any case few travellers woold care to make the
whole journey from St, Paul to New Orleans; but a day or two on the
river will be found an agreeable change from the dusty railways. The
boat- companies issue combination-tickets, allowing any part of the journey
the traveller selects to be traversed by railway; and liberal 'stop-over'
privileges are granted on all tickets.
The commerce carried on by the Mississippi and its tributaries is
estimated to attain a bulk of 28,00f\000 tons annually and to employ
9700 vessels and 15,300 men (14,00U,000 passengersj.
In the following description of the voyage down the river only the
more important places on the banks are mentioned. The distances are
reckoned from St. Paul.
St. Paul, see p, 388. The steamer passes under five bridges.
For the first 25 M, or so both banks of the river are in Minnesota
(p. 384), but beyond the mouth of the St. Croix River (left) the E.
bank is in Wisconsin [p. 380).
27 M. (right bank) Hastings (swing-bridge), see p. 384.
30 M. (1.) Prescott (swing-bridge), at the foot of Lake St. Croix,
an enlargement of the river of that name.
52 M. (r.) Red Wing (p. 384), with Bam Bluff (200 ft.). A
little farther on the steamer traverses the beautiful expansion of
the river known as *Lake Pepin (p. 384). To the left rises the
River. KEOKUK. 69. Route. 429
Maiden Rock (410 ft.) , to the right is the bold round headland
called Point No Point.
67 M. (T.)Frontenac, see p. 384.— TSM.^r.) Lafee City {-p. 384).
— 79 M. (1.) North Pepin. — 84 M. (r.) Read's Landing (pontoon
bridge), at the lower end of Lake Pepin and opposite the month of
the Chippewa. — 87 M. (r.) Wahasha, see p. 384. — 117 M. (1.)
Fountain City. The next stretch of the river abounds in islands, and
the flanking bluffs are very picturesque in outline. — 125 M. (r.)
Winona (two bridges), see p. 384. — 137 M. (1.) Trempealeau, at
the mouth of the Black River. * Trempealeau Island, 635 ft. high,
commands a beautiful view. This is , perhaps , the most beautiful
section of the Upper Mississippi.
156 M. (1.) La Crosse (two swing -bridges), see p. 384. The
scenery continues to be attractive, while the towns and villages on
the banks now follow each other in closer succession.
187 M. (1.) Victory. Nearly opposite is the boundary between
Minnesota and Iowa (p. 420), where 'Black Hawk' met his final
defeat. — 199 M. (r.) Lansing (Iowa). — 228 M. (1.) Prairie du
Chien (pontoon - bridge) , near the mouth of the Wisconsin River
(see p. 386). Fishing for clam-shells for pearl-buttons is carried
on in this part of the river, and not a few fresh-water pearls are
found in the course of it. — 231 M. (r.) McGregor (pontoon-bridge).
— 252 M. (r.) Guttenherg. — 260 M. (1.) Cassville. — 289 M. (1.)
East Dubuque (p. 886) lies in Rlinois (p. 357), just beyond the
frontier of Wisconsin. Nearly opposite rises Eagle Point (300 ft.).
290 M. (r.) Dubuque (two bridges), see p. 386. The bluffs now
become lower and the scenery tamer. — 335 M. (1.) Savanna is
connected with (337 M.; r.) Sabula{-p. 417) by a railway-bridge.
355 M. (1.) Fulton (p. 686) , Lyons (r.), and —
357 M. (r.) Clinton (p. 419) are connected by three bridges. —
Beyond (381 M. ; r.) Le Claire we shoot the picturesque Upper Ra-
pids, which extend hence to Rock Island.
397 M. (1.) Rock Island (p. 420) and (398 M.; r.) Davenport
are united by the fine bridge mentioned at p. 420. A good view is
obtained of the Oovernment Island and Arsenal. — 426 M. (r.)
Muscatine (bridge; Commercial, $2), a thriving city with (1905)
15,087 inhab., carries on a brisk trade in timber, sweet potatoes,
and melons, and has several pearl-button factories (comp. above).
— 449 M. New Boston (1.). — 455 M. (1.) Keithsburg (bridge ;
1566 inhab.).
480 M. (r.) Burlington (bridge), see p. 421. —494 M. (1.) Dal-
las City. — 504M. (t.') Fort Madison (bridge), seep. 423. — 512M.
(1.) Nauvoo, a place of 1321 inhab., was once a flourishing Mormon
city with a population of 15,000 (see p. 500). — 515 M. (r.) Mont-
rose lies at the head of the Lower Rapids, which extend hence to
(527 M. ; r.) Keokuk (bridge; Keokuk Hotel, R. from $ 1; 14,604 in-
hab. in 1905), at the mouth of the Des Moines River, here forming
430 Route 69. THE MISSOURI. Mississippi
the bonndary between Iowa and Missouri ('Bullion State'). — 531 M.
(1.) Warsaw. — 551 M. (r.) Cantcm (2367 inhab.). — 558 M.
La Grange (r).
568 M. (1.) Quincy (bridge), see p. 426. — 588 M. (r.) Eanni-
lal (bridge), see p. 425. — 616 M. (r.) Louisiana (bridge; 5130
inhab.). — 626 M. (r.) Clark^ille. — 641 M. (1.) Hamburg. —
663 M. (r.) Cap au Oris. — 690 M. (1.) Grafton, at the month of
the Illinois River. — 706 M. (1.) Alton, see p. 400.
Abont 3 M. farther on we reach the confluence of the Mississippi
and the Missouri. The latter river, flowing in from the N.W., has
a longer course than the Mississippi up to their junction (2908 M., as
compared with 1330 M.) and contributes a greater volume of water
to the joint stream, so that it would seem that the name Mississippi
in its application below this point has clearly usurped the place
of the Missouri. The clear waters of the Mississippi long refuse to
mingle with the turbid flood of the Missouri. Efforts are now being
made to revive the navigation of the Missouri and improve tis
channel.
729 M. St. Louis (410 ft.) and its magnificent bridges are de-
scribed in R. 63. This is the terminus of the Diamond Jo Line
Steamers (comp. p. 428).
The scenery of the Lower Mississippi differs materially from that
of the Upper Mississippi (comp. p. 428), and the place of landscape
beauty is taken to some extent by historic interest. The towns and
villages on the banks usually follow each other rapidly, and innumer-
able islands are passed. The great levees or embankments guarding
the river are a prominent feature.
Soon after we leave St. Louis, Jefferson Barracks (p. 416) are
seen to the right. 761 M. (32 M. from St. Louis ; r.) Crystal City
(see p. 416). — 789 M. (r.) Ste. Genevieve (1707 inhab.). — 809 M.
(1.) Chester (2832 inhab.), with a large penitentiary. — Near
(849 M. ; 1.) Grand Tower, a favourite resort of the citizens of St.
Louis, we pass the island known as the DeviVs Tea Table. — 879 M.
(r.) Cape Girardeau (4815 inhab.). — 894 M. (r.) Commerce. The
large island to the right, a little farther on, is Power s Island.
929 xM. (1.) Cairo (315 ft.), at the mouth of the Ohio, see p. 588.
— 951 M. (1.) Columbus (bridge), the first landing-place in Kentucky
(p. 567), was strongly fortified by the Confederates in the Civil War,
but was ultimately abandoned without attack. Just beyond is Wolf
Island or Island No. 5. — 967 M. (1.) Hickman (1590 inhab.). —
Island No. 10, off (986 M. ; r.) Donaldson Point, was also strongly
fortified in the war and was captured by the Federal gun-boats in
April, 1862, after a month's bombardment. — 988 M. (1.) Wades,
nearly opposite, is in Tennessee (p. 583). — 999 M. (r.) New Ma-
drid, with 1490 inhab., was captured at the same time as Island
No. 10. — 1017 M. (1.) Tiptonville. A little to the E. lies Reelfoot
Lake. — Numerous small landings are now passed. — 1074 M. (r.)
River. THE ARKANSAS. 69. Route. 431
Hickman's is in Arkansas (p. 589). — 1119 M. (1.) Fort Pillow,
on the First Chickasaw Bluff, evacuated "by the Confederates in
1862, was the scene of what is known as the Fort Pillow Massacre
(April 12th, 1864). The river now winds considerably and passes
several islands, the largest of which are named Centennial and
Brandy wine.
1179 M. (1.) Memphis (180 ft. ; bridge), see p. 586. Farther on
numerous windings are threaded. — 1207 M. (1.) Be Soto is the first
station in Mississippi (p. 574). — 1261 M. (r.) Helena (140 ft. ; rail-
way-ferry), near the mouth of the St. Francis (with its extensive
levees), is a busy little city with 5550 inhab. and a trade in tim-
ber. — Numerous small stations. — 1358 M. (r.) Mouth of the
White River, which rises in Missouri and joins the Mississippi after
a course of 700 M.
1365 M. (r.) Black Hawk lies at the mouth of the Arkansas
River.
The Arkansas River rises in the Rocky Mts. , to the W. of South
Park (p. 475), and has a course of 1600 M., of which 800 M. are navigable.
Beyond the Choctaw Bend we reach (1419 M. ; r.) Arkansas City
(95 ft. ; 1090 inhab.). — Passing Rowdy Bend, Millers Bend, Island 82
(1431 M.), and Bachelor's Bend, we reach (1456 M. ; 1.) Greenville,
a small cotton - trading city with 7642 inhabitants. The banks are
now lined with cotton-plantations, which afford a very interesting
sight in time of harvest (Sept.-Nov.), The planters' houses, especi-
ally as we approach the S. , are often roomy and quaint old man-
sions, surrounded with groves of fine trees. Many of the trees are
fantastically draped with Spanish moss (Tillandsia usneoides). —
1484 M. (r.) Grand Lake is the first station in Louisiana (p. 575). No
places of any great size or importance are passed till we reach —
1579 M. (1.) Vicksburg (40ft.; railway-ferry; see p. 587).—
1636 M. (r.) St. Joseph. — 1642 M. (1.) Rodney.
1691 M. (1.) Natchez, see p. 587. — 1756 M. (1.) Fort Adams. —
1767 M. (r.) Red River Landing, at the mouth of the Red River.
Beyond this point both banks of the river are in Louisiana. —
1813 M. (1.) Bayou Sara. Oranges and figs may now be seen grow-
ing in the open air. The 'Swampers' of Bayou Sara are a peculiar
community of wood-cutters living on raft-houses floating in the
swamps.
1851 M. (1.) Baton Rouge, see p. 587. The course of the river
between this point and New Orleans is very circuitous. Several
sugar-plantations are passed. — 1871 M. (r.) Plaquemine. — 1883 M.
(r.) Bayou Goula. — 1896 M. (r.) Donaldsonville (4105 inhab.). —
1912 M. (1.) Convent. — 1917 M. (1.) Belmont Plantation. —
1943 M. (1.) Bonnet Carre Point. — 1954 M. Red Church. — 1964 M.
(1.) KennervilU. — 1973 M. Carrollton (p. 636).
1981 M. New Orleans, see p. 631.
432 Route 69. EADS JETTIES.
Below New Orleans the trees disappear, the river banks become
less defined, and the river finally loses itself in a vast marsh, through
which various 'passes' or channels lead to the Gulf of Mexico. Near
New Orleans are many vegetable-gardens and small fruit-farms, often
irrigated by syphon pipes, straddling the levee. About 70 M. from
New Orleans the ocean -steamers pass between Fort St. Philip (left)
and 'Fort Jackson (right) and soon after enter the South Pass, marked
by lighthouses. At the lower end of the S. Pass are the wonderful
*Eads Jetties, constructed by Capt. Eads (p. 415) in 1875-79 at
a cost of $5,000,000 (1,000,000 i.) and forming a channel 30 ft.
deep where formerly the draught was not more than 10 ft. The
jetties, 2V3 and IV2 M- long, are constructed of willow rods, rubble,
and concrete. The ends of the jetties, marked by two lights, may
be called the mouth of the Mississippi, beyond which we are on the
Gulf of Mexico.
IV. THE FAR WEST. CALIFOMIA.
Route Page
70. From St. Panl to Everett and Seattle 434
From Havre to Helena and Butte 435. — Lake McDonald
436. — Lake Washington 437. — From Seattle to Van-
couver 438.
71. From St. Paul to Tacoma, Seattle, and Portland . . 438
Butte 441. — From Spokane to Umatilla. From Marshall
Junction to Lewiston. Cascade Mts. 444. — Mt. Eainier.
Paradise Park. From Tacoma to Olympia 446.
72. The Yellowstone National Park 447
a. From Livingston to Mammoth Hot Springs 450. —
b. From Mammoth Hot Springs to the Lower Geyser
Basin 461. — c. From the Lower Geyser Basin to the
Upper Geyser Basin 454. — d. From Upper Geyser
Basin to Yellowstone Lake Hotel 455. — e. From YeUow-
stone Lake to the Grand Canyon 457. — f. From the
Yellowstone Canyon to Mammoth Hot Springs 459.
73. Fiom Council Bluffs and Omaha to San Francisco . . 459
North Park 460. — From Ogden to Pocatello 461. —
From Hazen to Fallon. From Hazen to Keeler 462. —
From Reno to Virginia City. From Truckee to Tahoe
463. — Sierra Nevada 464. — From Sacramento to
Lathrop. Calaveras Grove 465.
74. From Council Bluffs and Omaha to Portland .... 467
Great Shoshone FaUs 467. — Mt. Hood 469.
75. From Kansas City to San Francisco 470
a. Via Union Pacific Railway System 470
Leavenworth 470. — From Denver to Golden, Central
City, and Silver Plume 5 to Boulder and Fort Collins
473. — From Denver to Leadville; to Gunnison and
Baldwin 474. — South Park. Around the Circle. From
Denver to McCoy; to La Junta 475.
h. Via Atchison, Topeka, & Santa Fe Railway ... 476
From Newton to Galveston. Oklahoma 476. — Las
Vegas Hot Springs 477. — Santa Fe 478. — From Albu-
querque to El Paso 479. — Grand Canyon of the Colo-
rado 481. — From Ash Fork to Phoenix 483. — From
Kramer to Johannesburg. Randsburg Mining District 484.
76. From Kansas City to Los Angeles 485
a. Via Santa F^ Route 485
From San Bernardino to San Diego and National City 485.
b. Via Rock Island System 487
77. From Denver to Salt Lake City and Ogden 488
a. Via Denver & Rio Grande Railroad 488
Excursions from Colorado Springs 490-492. — From
Pueblo to Alamosa (San Luis Park ; Creede) ; to Durango
(Mancos Cliff Dwellings); to Silverton; and to Ouray
492-494. — From Florence to Cripple Creek 494. — From
Salida to Grand Junction viS Leadville. Sangre de Cristo
Range 495. — Crested Butte 496.
h. Via Colorado Midland Railway 498
Aspen, Salt Lake City 499. — Great Salt Lake 502.
Baedbkbk's United States. 4th Edit. 28
434 Route 70. CROOKSTON. From St. Paul
Route Page
78. From Salt Lake City to Los Angeles. . 503
79. From San Francisco to Portland 504
Mt. Shasta, From Thrall to Pokegama 505. — Crater
Lake 506. — Exciirsions from Portland 508.
80. San Francisco 509
Excursions : Seal Rocks (Cliff House), Mt. San Bruno, Mare
Island, San Francisco Bay, Sausalito, Mt, Tamalpais,
Cazadero, San Rafael, Geyser Springs, Alameda, Cali-
stoga, Mt. St. Helena, Mt. Diaholo, Sonoma 516-519.
81. From San Francisco to Santa Cruz 520
a. Via Oakland . 520
Big Trees of Santa Cruz 520.
b. Via Ocean Shore Railway 521
82. From San Francisco to Los Angeles 521
a. Via Coast Line 521
Pescadero 521. — Leland Stanford Jr. University 522.
— Lick Observatory 523. — From Pajaro to Santa Cruz.
From Castroville to Monterey and Pacific Grrove (Hotel del
Monte, Seventeen Mile Drive) 524, 525. — Excursions from
Santa Barbara 527, 528. — From Montalvo to Saugus 528.
b. Via the San Joaquin Valley 529
Sequoia National Park 530.
83. Los Angeles 531
From Los Angeles to Santa Monica ; to Redondo Beach ;
to Long Beach; to San Pedro; to Santa Catalina; to
San Gabriel; to Sierra Madre; to Monrovia; to North
Glendale ; to Mt. Lowe ; and to Mt. Wilson 534, 535. Kite
Shaped Track 535. — Inside Track Flyer 536.
84. From Los Angeles to Pasadena 536
85. From Los Angeles to San Diego and National City.
Coronado Beach 537
86. The Yosemite Valley 540
Excursions in the High Sierra 547. — Wawona and the
Mariposa Grove of Big Trees 548.
87. From San Francisco to El Paso 549
70. From St. Paul to Everett and Seattle.
1828 M. Gkeat Xorthebn Railwat to (1795 M.) Everett and (1828 M.)
Seattle in about 23/4 days (fare, 1st class $50, 2nd cl. §40; sleeper $12,
family tourist-car S 6). Through-carriages also run by this route to (1179 M.)
Helena in 35 hrs. (fare $ 32.50; sleeper $ 7) and to (1254 M.) Butte in 37 hrs.
(same fares). — The finest route from the Twin Cities to the Pacific Coast
is that afforded by the Soo Line in combination with the Canadian Pacific
Railway. The Soo Line runs through the best agricultural region of
IS^. Dakota to (560 M.) Portal, on the Canadian frontier. Hence to the
coast, through the magnificent scenery of the Canadian Rockies and the
Selkirks, see Baedeker's Canada.
From St. Paul to (217 M.) Barneaville, see R. 57b. At (299 M.)
Crookston we cross the Red Lake River and turn to the left (W.).
Some trains run from Barnesville to Grand Forks via Fargo (p. 398), and
others follow the route from St. Paid via BrecTcenridge (p. 398),
to Seattle, GREAT FALLS. 70. Route. 435
At (324 M.) Grand Forks (p. 398) w© cross the Red River and
the Manitoba-Pacific ronte (R. 57) and enter North Dakota (p. 439)
continuing to traverse a great wheat-conntry. At (845 M.) Larimore
we change to 'Central' time (p. xiv). — 409 M. Devil's Lake (1490 ft. ;
Sevilla, $ 2) lies on the N. shore of the large lake of that name, 50 M.
long and 2-8 M. wide, with good hathing and fishing (pickerel, etc.).
On the S. shore lie Fort Totten, a TJ. S. military post (reached by
steamer) , and the Cuthead Sioux Indian Reservation. Flocks of
wild geese are often seen from the train in this region in spring
and autnmn. — From (428 M.) ChurcKs Ferry and (466 M.) Rugby
lines run N. to points in the Turtle Mts. At (485 M.) Towner and
again at (526 M.) Minot we cross the Mouse River. At (648 M.)
Williston, where we change to 'Mountain' time (p. xiv), we reach the
Upper Missouri River, which flows to the left. 668 M. Fort Buford^
an important military station, lies on the Missouri, opposite the
mouth of the Yellowstone (p. 440). Farther on we enter Montana
(p. 440). 733 M. Poplar, a military post, with a large Indian school.
Beyond (789 M.) Nashua we leave the Missouri and follow the Milk
River, through a grazing district. 804 M. Glasgow; 861 M. Bowdoin;
902 M. Savoy. Near (935 M.) Chinook the Bear Paw Mts. and the
Little Rockies, spurs of the Rocky Mts., are seen to the left.
957 M. ^awe (2480 ft.).
Fkom Havee to (222 M.) Helena and (295 M.) Butte, Great Northern
Railway in 10-14 lira. — This line actually quits the trunk line at (4 M ) Pacific
Junction (see below) and runs towards the S. 7 M. Fort Assinniboine, amid the
foot-hills of the Bear Paw Mts., is one of the largest and best-equipped
military posts in the United States, and has a garrison of coloured troops. —
79 M. Fort Benton, on the ifissowri, which the line now follows. — 124 M.
Great Falls (3200 ft. ; Park Hotel, from $ 3) is a brisk and growing little
industrial city of (1900) 14,930 inhab., with large copper-smelting works. It
derives its name and importance from the falls formed here by the Missouri,
with a total descent of 500 ft. The river contracts here from a width of
upwards of 1/2 M. to one of 300 yds. and descends over the Black Eagle
Falls (50 ft.), Goiters Falls (12 ft.), Crooked Falls (20 ft.), *Rai7ibow Falls (48 ft.),
and Great Falls (92 ft.). Near Rainbow Falls is the Giant Spring Fall, formed
by a spring or river bursting from the bank of the Missouri, 20 ft. above the
channel. Branch-lines run S. from Great Falls to (64 M.) Barker and (66 M.)
Neihart (Belt Mts.) and N. to (199 M.) Lethbridge (Canada). — About 50 M.
beyond Great Falls the train enters the Prickly Pear Canyon, threading the
■Gate of the Mountains, where the Missouri breaks through the rocky
mountain - wall. Farther on we leave the river. — 222 M. Helena, see
p. 441. — From Helena to (295 M.) Butte, see p. 441. At Butte we make
connection with the Oregon Short Line for points to the W. (comp. p. 467).
Beyond Havre our line runs nearly due W. through a grazing
country, with the Sweet Grass Hills to the N. 961 M. Pacific Junction
(see above). At (1037 M.) G alata (3370 ft.) we have our first vi^w
of the Rocky Mts. (p. 436). 1061 M. Shelby Junction (3275 ft.), for
lines .to Great Falls (see above) and Lethbridge (Canada). 1112 M.
Biacfc/bot (4140 ft.), in the BlackfeetReservation (ca. 2000 Indians),-
the (Joyernment Agency and School are seen to the right (N.) :r
little farther on. To the N.W., in the distance, towers the slender
Chief Mt. (10,800 ft.). At (1146 M.) Surnmit (5200 ft.) we cross
28*
436 Route 10. EVERETT. From St. Paul
the Bocky Mts., at an elevation 300-3000 ft. lower than that of any
other American railway (comp. pp. 442, 460). The scenery on the W.
slope of the Great Divide is imposing. — 1191 M. Belton (3210 ft.).
This ia the station for -Lake McDonald (3150 ft.), a charming lake 17 M.
long and 4-5 M. broad, situated 3 M. to the N., in the heart of the Eockies.
It is traversed by a steam-launch, and at the N. end is the Glacier House,
an unpretending inn, whence excursions may be made to the "Sperrp
Glacier, * Avalanche Basin and Lake (4000 ft.), and other points.
We cross the Flathead River near (1206 M.) Columbia Falls, the
junction of a line ninning through the Flathead Valley to Kalispell,
Marion, and Melbourne. Onr line runs to the N.W. and crosses
the Kootenai River at (1262 M.) Tobacco. We then follow this
river to (1275 M.) Rexford, (1318 M.) Jennings (2110 ft.), Kootenai
Falls (1341 M.), and (1348 M.) Troy (1880 ft.), where we pass from
'Mountain' to 'Pacific' time (p. xiv). Beyond (1355 M.) Yakt we
enter Idaho (p. 443). From (1380 M.) Bonner's Ferry (1760 ft.) the
Kootenai Valley Railway runs to the Kootenai Lake District (comp.
Baedeker s Canada). The line now hends to the S. 1414 M. Sand
Point, on Lake Pend d^ Oreille (p. 443). Farther on we cross the
Priest River and Clark's Fork of the Columbia. We enter the State
of Washington (p. 443) at (1443 M.) Newport (2120 ft.).
1489 M. Spokane (1910 ft.), see p. 443. Beyond Spokane the
line runs almost due W., crossing the Big Bend Wheat Region. In
the harvest-season we may sometimes catch a glimpse of a 'header',
a machine, drawn by ahout 20 horses, which cuts, threshes, and
cleans the wheat and packs it in sacks. 1523 M. Edwall; 1527 M.
Harrington (2165 ft.). We now descend, and near (1651 M.) Rock
Island Rapids we cross the Columbia River (p. 468), which we follow
to (1663 M.) Wenatchee (630 ft.), whence steamers ply to *Lake
Chelan, situated amid splendid mountain and glacier scenery. The
line then follows the Wenatchee for many miles. At (1674 M.) Cash-
mere (785 ft.) beautiful red and yellow roses are offered for sale
in summer (5 c. a basket). Beyond (1686 M.) Leavenworth (1165 ft.)
we pass through the picturesque *Tumwater Canyon. Two engines
are needed to haul the train up the ascent of the Cascade Mts,
(p. 444). 1718 M. Cascade Tunnel Station (3375 ft.) lies at the E.
end of the huge tunnel (21/2 M. long) bored through the range in
1897-1900, at a cost of $ 2,500,000. At the W. end of the tunnel,
which is 2000 ft. below the top of the mountain above and saves
9 M. of curves and zigzags, is (1722 M.) Wellington (3125 ft.). We
now descend on the W. side of the Cascade Range. The train runs
through vast forests and along the Skykomish River to (1743 M.) Sky-
komish, (1757 M.) Index (516 ft.), Snohomish (1786 M. ; p. 438), and —
1795 M. Everett (Mitchell, $21/2), a prosperous little industrial
city (7838 inhab. in 1900) on Puget Sound (p. 674), where we reach
tide- water. Mt. Baker (p. 674) is visible to the N., Mt. Olympus to
the W., and Mt. Rainier (p. 446) to the S.
The Great Northern Railway forks at Everett, one branch running
to Seattle. SEATTLE. 70. Route. 437
to the N. to Vancouver (see p. 438), while the main line turns to the
left (S.) and rnns along Paget Sonnd (finally throngh a tunnel) to —
1828 M. Seattle. — New Washington, R. from $ 2V2 ; Bdtlee, R.
$ 1-5; Savot, R. from $1; Peket, R. from $ 2; Rainiek-Geand, R. from
$ 1 ; Washington Annex , from $ 3, R. from $ 1 ; Butlee Annex, from
$ 2Vz, R. from $ 1 ; Lincoln Hotel, with roof-garden, from $ 3V2, R. from
$ 1. — Electric Tramways traverse the chief streets.
Brit. Vice-Consul. — Oerman Consul., Mr. A. Geissler.
Steamee from Seattle to Victoria and Alaska, see R. 120. Steamers
also ply to other ports on the Pacific Coast, to Japan, and to Europe.
Seattle (three syllables), finely situated in Elliot Bay., on a series
of terraces rising from the shore of the Sound, is one of the largest
and most energetic cities of the Pacific North- West and the com-
mercial centre of Puget Sound. Founded in 1852 and named after
an Indian chief, it had 3533 inhab. in 1880, 42,837 in 1890, and
80,671 in 1900 (now more than doubled). Almost the whole of the
business-quarter was burned down in 1889, but it has been rebuilt
in a more substantial manner. Among the finest edifices are the
Boman Catholic Cathedral., the Union or King St. Passenger Station,
the Carnegie Library, the American Bank, and the Alaska, Lawman,
White, Central, a.niEmpire Buildings. The statue of Wm. H. Seward
(1801-72) is by Richard Brooks. The State University has 1400 stu-
dents, and its grounds (355 acres in extent) furnished the site of
the Alaska- Yukon-Pacific Exposition of 1909 (June-Oct.). In the
campus is a colossal statue of Washington, by Lorado Taft. At
Magnolia Bluff is a U. S. Army Post. Seattle possesses a Buddhist
Church. The Totem Pole in Pioneer Sq., near the Union Station,
was brought from Alaska and is a good example of its kind (comp.
p. 679). The higher parts of the city command splendid views of the
Olympic Mts. — The spacious Hariour is entered and cleared an-
nually by about 2000 vessels, the chief exports being coal, timber,
hops, and fish. The value of Seattle's manufactures in 1907 was
$ 60,000,000, of its commerce $ 140,500,000. Iron has also been
found in the neighbourhood. Seattle is the chief entrepot of the
Alaskan Gold Fields (p. 679), and a large amount of gold dust may
often be seen in the i^. S. Assay Office.
Ahout 2 M. to the E. of Elliot Bay lies *Lake Washington (easily
reached by electric tramway), a beautiful sheet of fresh water, 20 M. long and
2-5 M. wide. Small steamers ply to various points on the lake, affording
good views of the Cascade Mts. (p. 444). Public Parks have been laid out
on the banks of this lake and at other points in the environs.
The traveller should not fail to make the excursion to the "Snoqualmie
Falls (270^ft. high), easily done in 24 hrs. by the Northern Pacific Railway
(56 M., via Woodinville). — An easier excursion is that across Puget Sound
(li/2hr. by steamer) to Bremerton, on Port Orchard Bay, with a U. S. Kavy
Yard and a huge dry-dock. — Another popular trip (taking from 7.30 a.m.
to 4.30 a.m.) is that to Eood''s Canal, a narrow arm of the Sound affording
a close view of the Olympic Mts. (see below).
Travellers with time to spare will find it well worth their while to
make an excursion to the *01ympic Mts., the comparatively unknown scenery
of which (incl. many glaciers and magnificent firs and cedars) is of a very
striking character. The best scenic centre is Crescent Lake (Marymere Hotel,
4:38 Route 71. LITTLE FALLS. From St. Paul
$ 2), ca. 20 M. (stage in 4 hrs.) from Port Angeles (Merchants, $2), which is
reached from Seattle by steamer (return-fare $ 6). The visitor should
ascend Mt. Storm King (3700 ft. ; 5 hrs.) and then devote two days (night
spent on summit) to Mt. Alura or Sourdough (5700 ft.), to the S. of the
lake, which commands a superb *View. The highest summit is i/<. Olympus
(3131 ft.), ca. 15 M. to the S.E. of Crescent Lake. The lake contains
10 varieties of trout, including two unknown elsewhere.
From Seattle to Vancouver by the Great Northern Railway, 168 M.,
in 6-8 hrs. This line runs to the N. along the E. bank of Puget Sound and
Washington Sound. From Seattle to (33 M.) Everett, see pp. 437, 436. SS'/zM.
Stanwood; 93 M. BelUngham (Byron, Baker, from $ 21/2), a rapidly growing
seaport (25,000 inhab.) on BelUngftam Bay. Beyond (119 M.) Blaine we enter
British Columbia. 143V2 M. New Westminster (Guishon, $ 2-3), with 6500 inhab.,
is the oldest place in this region. At (156 M.) Port Moody we join the main
line of the Can. Pac. Railway. — 168 M. Vancouver, st& Baedeker'' s Canada.
Froji Seattle to Vaiigouver by the Northern Pacific Railway, 178 M., in
9 hrs. This line also runs directly to the N. along the E. shore of Puget
Sound. — From (38 M.) Snohomish (3000 inhab. ; N'ew Brunswick, $ 2) branch-
railways run to (SM.) Everett (p. 436) and to i50M.) Monte Crista, while stage-
lines start here for the gold and silver mining camps at Sultan River and
Silver Creek. — 46 M. Hartford; 60 M. Arlington; 86 JM. Sedro-WooUey, the
junction with the Great Northern Eailway. At (126 M.) Sumas our train
enters British Columbia and joins the Can. Pac. Railway. 136 M. Mission
Junction; 161 M. Westminster Junction, for (9 M.) New Westminster (see above).
— 178 M. Vancouver, see Baedeker''s Canada.
From Seattle to Tacoma by railway, see p. 445 5 to N. Yakima and Pasco
Junction (for the E.), see p. 444. Lines also run to various other points.
71. From St. Paul to Tacoma, Seattle, and Portland.
2052 M. T^ORTHEEN Pacific Railway to (1907 M.) Tacoma in 60 hrs.
(1st class fare for continuous passage S50, available for 30 days $60;
2nd class fare $ 40; sleeper $ 12), to (1911 31.) Seattle in 60 hrs. (same
fares), and to (2052 M.) Portland in 71 hrs. (same fares). Duluth (p. 393) is
also one of the E. termini of this line, the line thence uniting with the
St. Paul line at Staples (p. 439).
This important railway crosses a district of immense agricultural and
mineral wealth and forms one of the main lines of communication between
the E. and W. coasts of the United States, besides affording convenient access
to British Columbia, Vancouver Island, and Alaska. Much of the scenery
on the W. portion of the line is very fine, and the branch-line from Livingston
(see p. 441) affords a direct route' from the N. to the wonderful Yellowstone
Park (R. 72 ; through-sleepers to Gardiner, p. 450).
St. Paul, see p. 388. We follow the E. bank of the Mississippi
(views to the left), passing the State Fair Buildings (p. 390) and
Eamline University. At (10 M.) Minneapolis (see p. 390) we cross and
recross the river. 29 M. Anoka; 41 M. Elk River; 76 M. St. Cloud
(p. 398). Our line now parts company with that of the Great Northern
Railway (R. 70). 77 M. Sauk Rapids. From (108 M.) Little Falls
(Buckman, $2-2^2), where we leave the Mississippi Valley, branch-
lines run to (30 M.) Brainerd (1230 ft.), an industrial city with
(1905) 8133 inhab. and the N. P. R. workshops (on the line to Duluth,
p. 393), and to (60 M.) Glenwood and (88 M.) Morris.
From Brainerd the Minnesota <jb International Railway runs to (61 M.)
Walker (White City, R. from § 1 Chase, $ 2), on Leech Lake (37 M. long
and 17 M. wide), in the midst of a fine shooting and fishing district; to
(92 M.) Bemidji (Markbam, $ 2-3), on the lake of that name; and to (199 M.)
International Falls, on the Canadian boundary.
to Portland. BISMARCK. 7i. Bowie. 489
The main line crosses the Mississippi and rnns direct (N.W.) to
(142 M.) Staples, where the trains from Duluth come in (p. 438).
159 M. Wadena is the jnnction of a hranch-line to (69 M.) Fergus
Falls and (168 M.) Oakes (N.D.), wheie it connects with the hranch-
line rnnning N. to Jamestown (see helow). 172 M. New York Mills,
with a large settlement of Finns. Many small lakes are passed. —
204 M. Detroit (1 364 ft. ; Minnesota, $ 2-3), on one of a series of pretty
lakes, has mineral springs and good shooting and fishing. Abont 25 M.
to the N. is the White Earth Reservation of the Chippewa or Ojih-
way Indians. — 224 M. Winnipeg Junction, for a line to (257 M.)
Winnipeg (R. 57c). At (241 M.) Glyndon we cross the G. N. Railway.
249 M. Moorhead (905 ft. ; Columbia, $ 2-2V2), a thriving fionr-
making city of (1905) 4794 inhab., lies on the E. bank of the Bed
River of the North, opposite (250 M.) Fargo {Metropole, Waldorf,
from $272)5 another busy grain-trading city (12,512 inhab. in 1905),
which lies in North Dakota ('Great Cereal State'). Fargo is the junction
of a line to (87 M.) La Moure, (108 M.) Edgeley, and (149 M.) Streeter.
From Moorhead to Winnipeg, see p. 398.
In traversing N. Dakota we pass some of the huge prairie farms
for which the 'Great North -"West' is famous.
Some of these 'Bonanza' farms are 10-70 sq. M. in extent, and it is
no tinfreqnent sight to see a row of 20 or more ploughs, harrows, seeders,
or reapers at work at once. Continnous furrows have been ploughed for
many miles in a straight line. Harvesting generally begins about Aug. 1st,
and the vast expanses of yellow grain afford an extraordinary and very
beautiful sight. A yield of 20-25 bushels per acre is often attained. North
Dakota, in a good year, produces 90-100 million bushels of wheat.
Near (270 M.) Casselton (junction of a line to Marion, 60 M.) is
the great Dalrymple Farm, with an area of 15,000 acres (23 sq. M.).
292 M. Tower City, with a mineral artesian well. 308 M. Valley
City, on the Sheyenne River. From (319 M.) Sanborn a branch-line
goes N. to (37 M.) Cooperstown and (63 M.) McHenry. — 343 M.
Jamestown (1395 ft.; Gladstone, $2-3), an agricultural centre with
(1905) 5093 inhab., the N. Dakota Insane Hospital, and a Presby-
terian College, is prettily situated on the James or Dakota River.
A branch-line runs hence N. to (90 M.) Minnewaulcan, on Devil's Lake,
(p. 435), and (108 M.) Leeds; another runs S. to (69 M.) Oakes (see above).
The line now traverses the rolling district between the James
and the Missouri known as the Coteaux (400 ft. above the rivers).
Several small stations. — 445 M. Bismarck (1670 ft. ; Grand Pacific,
$ 2-3), the capital of N. Dakota, on the E. bank of the Missouri, here
400 yds. wide. It is the headquarters of navigation on the Upper
Missouri and contains the State Capitol, the new Fort Lincoln fcomp.
p. 440), and several other U. S. institutions. Pop. (1905) 4913.
The train crosses the river by a fine steel and iron truss-bridge,
with three main spans of 400 ft. each, 50 ft. above high-water.
450 M. Mandan (Inter-Ocean, $2-21/2; Nigey, $2), on theW. bank.
We change here from 'Central' to 'Mountain' time (1 hr. slower ; see
p. xiv). Fine mounted heads and fur-rugs are sold at the station.
440 Route 71. PYRAMID PARK. From St. Paul
About 6 M. to tlie S. lies the old Fort Abraham Lincoln (abandoned).
Near Mandan are nnmeions remains of the old earthen lodges of the
Mandan Indian, a handful of whom still subsist in a reservation on
the Missouri, 100 M. to the N.W. We cross the Heart River several
times in rapid succession. The district we now traverse is very
sparsely populated. Large numbers of prairie-dogs (a kind of marmot)
are seen. Sharp conical elevations known as 'buttes' (pron. butes)
pise from the plain in all directions. Near (549 M.) Gladstone we
again cross the Heart River. 660 M. Dickinson. At (580 M.) Belfield
we enter the district known as *Bad Lands or Pyramid Park, where
the buttes have been carved by the action of fire and water into the
most fantastic shapes. The colouring is also very variegated. The
name 'Bad Lands' refers properly to the difficulty of travel and
not to the soil, which affords excellent grazing. — From (600 M.)
Medora (2265 ft. ; hotel), on the E. bank of the Little Missouri, we
may visit Pyramid Park and the Burning Mine (7 M.). About 16 M.
farther on the curious Sentinel Butte is conspicuous to the left, and
in 8M. more we enter Montana ('Treasure State'), the third-largest
state of the Union , in which cattle and sheep raising and mining
are the chief industries. The native 'bunch grass', which cures itself
and stands as hay throughout the winter, forms excellent fodder.
666 M. Qlendive (2070 ft. ; Jordan, $ 21/2) Hes among pictur-
esque scenery on the S. bank of the Yellowstone River, which the line
now follows for a long distance. Numerous small tributaries of the
Yellowstone are crossed. — 745 M. Miles City (2350 ft. ; Coggshall,
R. from $ 1 ; Leighton, $2-3), a busy little place at the confluence of
the Yellowstone and the Tongue. 747 M. Fort Keogh, a TJ. S. military
post; 778 M. Rosebud, at the mouth of the Rosebud River; 833 M.
Big Horn (2690 ft.), at the mouth of the Big Horn River, which
we cross by a long bridge (Bighorn Mts,, see p. 422). We then
thread a tunnel 1100 ft. long. About 30 M. to the S. of (839 M.)
Custer (coach) is Fort Custer, and 15 M. farther to the S. is the spot
where Gen. Custer and his command of over 250 men were an-
nihilated by the Sioux in 1876 (the 'Custer Massacre' ; comp. p. 422).
Fort Custer lies in the midst of an extensive territory to the S. of
this part of the Yellowstone, which has been set apart as a reservation
for the Crow Indians (ca. 3000 in number). At (863 M.) Pompey's
Pillar, the rock of that name rises on the right, so christened by
Capt. Wm. Clark (Lewis and Clark Expedition) in 1806. To the left,
near Billings, is Skull Butte, so named from an Indian legend. A
large tract of desert near this part of the line has been reclaimed by
the irrigation - works of the U. S. Government. Beyond (892 M.)
Billings (3 lib ft.; Northern, R. from $ 1 ; Grand, from $21/2) the
scenery increases in grandeur, and snow-capped mountains appear in
the distance. From Billings to Lincoln, by the Burlington system,
see p. 422. — From (907 M.) Laurel a branch-line runs to (45 M.)
Red Lodge, in the heart of the coal-mining district. — We cross the
to Portlcmd LIVINGSTON. 71. Route. 4:4:1
Yellowstone and skirt its N, bank to (932 M.) Columbus , where we
return to the S. side. 973 M. Big Timber, near the mouth of the Big
Boulder Creek (good fishing). To the N. rise the snow-clad Crazy
Mts. 988 M. Spring dale, the station for (2^/2 M.) Hunter's Hot Springs
(hotel; 148-168 '^ Fahr.), at the foot of the Crazy Mts. Fine views
of the Little Belt Mts. to the right and the Snowy Range to the left.
1007 M. Livingston (4485 ft. ; Parle, $ 3, R. from $ 1 ; Albemarle,
R. from 75 c), a city of 2778 inhab., finely situated at the foot of
the Big Belt and Snowy Ranges, is the junction of the branch-rail-
way to Gardiner, the station for the Yellowstone Park (see p. 447).
It is a good centre for shooting (elk, deer, antelope, bear, grouse,
geese, ducks) and fishing (trout, grayling).
The train now crosses and leaves the Yellowstone, which we
have followed for 340 M. The line mounts rapidly (116 ft. per
mile) to the Bozeman Tunnel, 1170 yds. long, which crosses the
Big Belt Mts., an outlying range of the Rocky Mts., at a height
of 5570 ft. Beyond the tunnel we descend through the wild *Rocky
Canyon into the wide valley of the Gallatin. — 1032 M. Bozeman
(4750 ft.; Hotel Bozeman, $3), a busy city of 3419 inhab., on the
East Gallatin. Large coal-fields lie close by, and deposits of gold,
silver, iron, and copper are worked. — At (1057 M.) Logan (4100 ft.)
the line forks, the right or main branch running via Helena and the
left branch via Butte. The two lines reunite at Garrison (p. 442).
The line from Logan to (71 M.) Butte runs through a district of great
scenic beauty. — Butte (5700 ft. ; Thornton. R. from $ li/z ; Finlen, R. from
$11/2; Butte, R. from $1), founded in 1864, contains (1900) 30,470 inhab.
( with the contiguous settlements, 50-60,000) and is probably the chief mining
city in the country. It is the seat of the great Anaconda Copper and Silver
Mine (sold in 1898 for $ 45,000,000) and other gold, silver, and copper mining
companies, producing ore to the annual value of at least $25,000,000
(5,000,000/.). The annual output of copper is now about 250 million pounds.
A visit to one of the chief mines is very interesting (introduction desirable
and in some cases necessary). — The smelting works at Anaconda (Montana
Hotel, from $81/2), 25 M, to the W., are said to be the largest in the
world. They have a concrete chimney 350 ft. in height. The public
fountain throws a jet 220 ft. high. — The line from Butte to (52 M.) Garrison
(see p. 442) runs through the picturesque Deer Lodge Valley passing (40 M.)
Deer Lodge City (4545 ft.; 1324 inhab.)-
Beyond Logan the main line soon reaches (1060 M.) Gallatin
(4030 ft.), the station for Three Forks, at the confluence of the Mad-
ison , Jefferson, and Gallatin, which unite to form the Missouri.
Farther on we thread a wild canyon, with the Missouri to the left and
precipitous walls of rock to the right. 1126 M. Prickly Pear Junction.
1130 M. Helena (3930 ft. ; Helena, Grandon, R. from $ 1 ; hotel
at Broadwater, see p. 442), the capital of Montana, is a mining city
of 10,770 inhab., finely situated in the fertile Prickly PearValley, near
the E. base of the Rocky Mts. The State House and some of the
other official and commercial buildings are large and substantial,
and the streets are lighted by electricity and traversed by electric
tramways. In the State House grounds is an equestrian statue
442 Route 71. MISSOULA. From St. Paul
of Gen. T. F. Meagher (1823-67). A visit to the U. 8. Assay Office
is interesting.
Helena lies in tlie heart of one of the richest mining districts
in the country and claims to he among the -wealthiest cities of its
size in the world. It is said that gold to the value of at least
$ 40,000,000 has been taken from the Last Chance Oulch^ which rnns
through the city; and all round the city are valuable gold and silver
hearing veins of quartz, besides deposits of copper, iron, and galena.
About 3 M. to theW. of Helena (reached by electric tramway; fare 10 c.)
is the Broadwater Natatorium (400 ft. long and 150 ft. wide ; adm. free), fed
by a hot spring, the temperature of which at its source is about 160° (in
bath about 100°). The waters are good for rheumatism. Adjacent is the
*Broadwater Hotel (R. from § IV2). — A visit to one of the Oold or Silver
Mines in the vicinity is of great interest. The nearest are those at Grizzly
Gulch., 4 M. to the S.W. The Drum-Lummon Mine, 20 M. to the N., has
yielded $ 2,000,000 worth of gold and silver in a single year. — A steamer
trip may be made through the Canyon of the Missouri.
Helena is also a station on the Great iS^orthern Railway (see R. 70) and
a pleasant excursion may be made by taking the Montana Central Division
of this line to (98 M.) Great Falls (p. 435).
About 21 M. beyond Helena we cross the main ridge of the
Eocky Mts. by Mullans Pass, where the train passes through a tun-
nel 2/3 M. long and 5545 ft. above sea-level (summit of mountain
over tunnel 5870 ft.). This is from 1800 to 2700 ft. lower than the
passes of the Santa Fe and Union Pacific Railroads (comp. pp. 479,
460). The contrast between the E. and the W. sides of the 'Great
Divide' is very striking, as we at once pass from a scene of wild
rocky grandeur to one of mild pastoral beauty. The line descends
rapidly to the valley of the Little Blackfoot River. At (1181 M.)
Garrison (4315 ft.), on the Deer Lodge River, we are joined by the
line from Butte (see p. 441). Beyond Garrison we skirt the Deer
Lodge River, which soon changes its name to Hell Gate River. The
fine snow-clad pyramid of Mt. Powell (13,400 ft.) is seen to the
left. Near (1189 M.) Gold Creek the last spike of the Northern
Pacific Railroad was driven in 1883, the tracks advancing from the
E. and the W. meeting here. Below (1214 M.) Bearmouth (3790 ft.)
we pass into Hell Gate Canyon, a picturesque valley, 2-3 M. wide.
At (1248 M.) Bonner the Hell Gate River is joined by the Big Black-
foot River (right), which we cross beyond the station. — 1255 M.
Missotda (3195 ft.; Florence, $3-4; Rankin, R. from 75 c), finely
situated on the Hell Gate or Missoula River, near its confluence with
the Bitter Root River, is a rising city of 4366 inhab. and the junction
of the Bitter Root Valley branch. Fort Missoula lies 4 M. to the S.
Hamilton (Hotel Ravalli, $ 3-4), on the Bitter Root line, 47 M. to the S.,
is a pleasant stopping-place, with big game and good fishing.
At (1261 M.) De Smet the railway forks, our line keeping to the
right, while the Coeur d'Alene branch diverges to the left.
The CoEDB d'Al6ne Line runs, through grand mountain scenery, into
the heart of a famous mining district (lead and silver). At (308 M.) Harrison
it reaches the lovely Coeur d" Aline Lake, which may be crossed to Coeur
d'AUne City (p. 443).
to Portland. SPOKANE. 71. Route. ^^^
BeyondDe Smet we cross the Marent Quick by a steel-trestle 226 ft.
high. We then follow the Jocko River and traverse the Reservation
of the Flathead Indians, a peaceful tribe whose boast is that they
never killed a white man ; their hnts and 'teepees' are seen on both
sides of the railway. The Agency Buildings are visible at the foot of
the Mission Range, 5 M. to the E. The Reservation includes a large
enclosure for the preservation of the bison. Near (1299 M.) Jocko the
Jocko joins the Flathead or Pend d'Oreille, which we now follow.
Beyond (1313 M.) Perma (2490 ft.) we cross the river by a truss-
bridge. About 8 M. farther on the Pend d'Oreille is joined by the
Missoula, and the combined rivers take the name of the Clark Fork
of the Columbia. The valley here is narrow and rocky, but at(1325M.)
Paradise and (1332 M.) Plains (2460 ft.) it widens into two pleasant
little plains, formerly used by the Indians as wintering-places for
their ponies. The white Coeur dHAlene Mts. rise to the left and the
Cabinet Mts. to the E. 1357 M. Thompson's Falls (2435 ft.), at the
falls of the Clark Fork River. Picturesque scenery. Numerous bridges
and cuttings. At (1380 M.) Trout Creek we change from 'Mountain'
to 'Pacific' time (1 hr. slower; comp. p. xiv). Near (1405 M.) Heron
(2260 ft.) we enter Idaho ('Gem of the Mountains'), a mountainous
state, the N. tip of which we now traverse. We cross the river and
skirt the N. bank of its expansion, *Lake Pend d'Oreille, a beautiful
sheet of water 45-50 M. long and 3-15 M. wide. 1428 M. Hope
(2110 ft.), on the N. bank of the lake. At (1444 M.) Sand Point
(p. 436) we cross an arm of the lake and then quit it. The scenery
retains its wild character for several miles and then we cross vast
plains hemmed in by hills as far as Spokane. The line runs towards
the S. as far as (1486 M.) Rathdrum (2210 ft.). 1492 M. Hauser
Junction, for a line to (14 M.) Coeur d'Alene City (p. 442). — We
now enter Washington ('Evergreen State'), an important agricult-
ural state, also remarkable for the splendid timber of its W. slopes.
Beyond (1497 M.) Otis we cross the Spokane River.
1513 M. Spokane (pron. Spokan; 1910 ft.; Spokane Hotel,
Victoria, R. from $ 1 ; Halliday, R. from 75 c; *Davenport's Cafe),
a thriving city of 36,848 inhab., settled in 1878 and in great part
rebuilt since a fire in 1889, lies on both banks of the Spokane River,
in the centre of a district of great agricultural richness.
The two *Falls, both within the city, are 150 ft. in total height
and furnish the water-power for numerous manufactories, for the
electric lighting of the town, and for its system of cable and electric
tramways. Visitors should descend to the foot of the lower falls
and should also go to the bridge above the upper falls. Among the
most conspicuous buildings, many of which are of extraordinary
size and solidity for so small and young a city, are the Opera House
(2000 seats), the Court House, and the City Hall. The residence-
quarter, on the hill above the railway (on the opposite side from
the business-quarter), contains many houses of unusually good taste.
444 Route 71. PASCO. From St, Paul
The High School, in this qnarter, is a handsome red bnilding, with
a tower. A fine *View of the city and valley is obtained from the
Cliff Heights (reached hy cable-cars and steam-tramway).
Fbom Spokane to Umatilla, 262 M., Oregon Railroad & Navigation Co.
in 9hrs. — Chief stations: 50 M. Tekoa; 105 M. Winona; 157 M. Starbuck;
204 M. Walla Walla (10,049 inhab.); 235 M. Wallula (see below). At (262 M.)
Umatilla we join the route described at p. 468.
The line now mns to the S."W. — 1522 M. Marshall Junction.
Feom Maeshall Jdnction to Lewiston, 138 M., railway in 6V2 hrs. This
line runs through the fertile Palouse District. — From (126 M.) Joseph a branch-
line runs to (12 M.) Gul-de-Sac and (35 'ilL.)Vollmer. — 138 M. Lewiston^ at the
junction of the Snake and Clearwater rivers. Lewiston, which is in Idaho,
is connected hy a bridge across the Snake with Clarkston., in Washington.
[From Lewiston a branch-line runs through the fertile lands of the
ormer Fez Perci Reservation to (72 M.) Kooskia^ on the Upper Clearteater, and
75 M.) Stites.]
From (1529 M.) Cheney (2340 ft.) a line rnns to (124 M.) Coulee
City, passing (10 M.) Medical Lake , a favonrite invalid resort. —
Beyond (1554 M.) Sprague (1910 ft.) we pass Colville Lake (left).
We now traverse an elevated pastnrage-district.
1658 M. Pasco, near the confluence of the Columbia and Snake
Rivers, is the junction of the line into the Walla- Walla country.
This line crosses the Snake River by a long iron bridge and joins the
Oregon R.R. and Nav. Co. at (16 M.) Wallula Junction (see above). Follow-
ing this line for 27 M. more, we reach Umatilla. Thence to (187 M.) Fort-
land, see R. 74.
Pasco is also the junction of the Spokane, Portland, tk Seattle Railway,
running along the N. bank of the Columbia to (145 M.) Lyle, (221 M.) Van-
comer (Washington-, p. 508), and (231 M.) Portland (p. 506).
Our line crosses the Columbia and follows the valley of the Yakima
(river to the right) towards the N.W. Beyond (1698 M.) Prosser
we traverse the Yakima Indian Reservation. The white cap of Mt.
Adams (12,470 ft.) , one of the loftiest of the Cascade Mts. (see
below) , is seen to the left. — 1747 M. North Yakima (990 ft.),
with 3154 inhab., is the entrepot of the Yakima Basin, a district
in which large quantities of fruit, vegetables, hops, alfalfa, and
tobacco are grown by dint of irrigation. We now cross the river
and have it to our left. Farther on we pass through the fine * Yakima
Canyon (30 M. long) and enter the Kittitas Basin, another fertile
valley, bounded on the W. by the green Cascade Mts., with the
white peak of Mt. Rainier or Tacoma (p. 446) rising beyond. 1784 M.
EUenshurg (1510 ft.), with saw -mills and machine-shops. At
(1822 M.) Easton the train begins to ascend the E. slope of the Cas-
cade Mts. (see below) at a gradient of 116 ft. per mile. Fine views.
The crest is penetrated by the Stampede Tunnel (2810 ft. ; height
of summit above the tunnel 3980 ft.), nearly 2 M. long.
The Cascade Mts. (a continuation of the Sierra Nevada; see p. 464) are
a broad volcanic plateau, with many snow-peaks (9000-14,500 ft. ; average
height 6000 ft.), running through Washington and Oregon from N. to S. and
dividing these states into two regions diflfering widely in climate, surface,
and vegetation. The region we now enter on the W. slope has a mild,
moist climate (not unlike that of England), and is covered with dense
forests, mainly of coniferous trees.
to Portland. TACOMA. 71, Route. 445
We now descend into the beautiful valley of the Green River,
passing round winding curves and through tunnels, with nnmerous
picturesque glimpses. 1849 M. Hot Springs (*Hotel Kloeber), a
small health-resort. — 1869 M. Palmer Junction.
From Palmer Junction a branch-line, formerly followed by the through
trains, runs to (43 M.) Tacoma through the valleys of the White River and
the Puyallup (Poo-411up). Frequent *View8 of Mt Rainier are obtained. It
rejoins the main line at (35 M.) Meeker (see below).
From Palmer the main line goes by the 'Palmer Cut-off' to
(1890 M.) Auhurn, whence most of the thro ugh- trains run to the N.
to (1911 M.) Seattle (p. 437), one of the W. termini of the N. P. Rail-
way. Passengers for Tacoma and Portland usually change carriages
at Auburn, but in some cases retain their seats and are carried up
to Seattle, back to Auburn, and so to their destination.
The line for Tacoma and Portland runs to the S. (left) from
Auburn. 1897M. >Swmner; 1899 M. Meefeer.
1901 M. Puyallup (70 ft.; Puyallup, $ 1-3), with 1884inhab.,
is the centre of a rich hop-district^ with numerous drying-kilns (very
unlike the 'cowls' of Kent). It is also the headquarters oit\i^ Puyallup
Indian Reservation. Expert hop-pickers, many of whom are Indians,
can earn $ 1V2-2 (6-8«.3 per day (compared with 3-4s. in England).
1907 M. Tacoma. — Hotel Tacoma, R. from $ I5 Donnelly, R. from
$ 1; Bonneville, $4-5. — A line of Electeic Tbamwats connects the Rail-
way Station, at the end of Pacific Avenue, the main business-street, with
the Wharf; and numerous other electric lines run to the suburbs, Point
Defiance Pari, Puyallup (see above), etc. — British Vice-Consul. — German
Vice-Consul, Mr. 0. Richter.
Tacoma (30 ft.), an industrial city and seaport of (1900) 37,714
inhab. (now probably doubled) and the "W. headquarters of the N.
Pacific Railway, is finely situated on a series of terraces rising from
the head of Commencement Bay, the S.E. arm of PugetSound(j^.Q7 A').
It commands fine views of the Sound, the Cascade Mts., and the
grand white cone of Mt. Rainier (S.E. ; see p. 446). Though only
30 years old (300 inhab. in 1876, 760 in 1880), Tacoma possesses
numerous substantial streets and buildings. Its industrial establish-
ments include large saw -mills (total annual value of products
$ 5,000,000), furniture factories, foundries, smelting works, railway
workshops, iron and stove works, breweries, flour-mills, etc.; and it
carries on an extensive trade in grain, lumber (150,000,000 ft.),
coal, tea, sUk, and other articles. Among the principal buildings
are the Court House, the City Hall, the Opera House, the Carnegie
Library, the Offices of the N. Pacific Railway, various Churches, the
High School, and the Annie Wright Seminary. In the Court House
is housed the Ferry Museum, which contains an interesting collection
of Indian baskets, domestic utensils, canoes, and implements of
hunting and war, as well as casts, prints, and armour (open daily,
2-5; on Thurs. & Sun. 10 c, other days 25 c). In front of the Hotel
Tacoma is a Totem Pole (p. 679). The University of Puget Sound
and Whitworth College have each about 400 students.
446 Route 71. OLYMPIA.
Many good roads and bicycle-paths lead from Tacoma to the so-called
Natural Parks ^ beginning 6 M. to the S. of the city and extending thence
for about 15 M., with a width of 10 M. This large area, in spring thickly
carpeted with flowers, is dotted with trees and lakes, the largest of the
latter being the American Lake, 5 M, long and 2 M. wide, offering good
boating and fishing. A joint camp of Regular and National Guard troops
is held here biennially (1908, 1910, etc.)- The Parks are excellent driving
places, as there is no dust in summer and no mud in winter.
Tacoma is the starting-point of steamers to Seattle (p. 437), Fori
Toumsend (p. 674), Olympia (see below), Victoria (p. 674), and other points in
Paget Sound; to San Fraticisco (p. 509) and other Californian ports; to
China and Japan, Honolulu, European ports, etc. — Tacoma is connected
with Seattle (p. 437) by the Northern Pacific Railway (41 M., in IV2 hr.)
and by the Interurban Electric Railway (36 M., in IV2 hr.).
A visit to *Mt. Rainier or Tacoma (14,529 ft.) takes about 3 days. The
train is taken to (32 M.) Wilkeson^ whence a bridle-path leads to (25 M.)
a point about 7000 ft. above the sea, where a good view is obtained of
two of the 14 living glaciers on the mountain. The hazardous ascent thence
to the summit should not be attempted except by experts. Mt. Rainier,
like the other isolated mountains of the Cascade Range, is an extinct vol-
cano ; and the two craters at the summit still give off heat and sulphurous
fumes. Mountain -goats, marmots, and ptarmigan are among its fauna.
Inquiry as to guides and horses should be made at Tacoma. — Another
and perhaps finer trip may be made to * Paradise Park (5500 ft.), on the
S. side of Mt. Rainier. Trains run twice a day on the Tacoma Eastern R. R.
from Tacoma to (55 M.) Ash/ord, whence stages ply regularly to (12 M.)
Longmire'' s Springs (2S50 ft. ; National Park Inn , from $ 2^/4 ; Longmire
Hotel), at the foot of the mountain. Most travellers prefer to spend the
night here, though it is possible to proceed the same evening as far as
the snow-line at Paradise Valley. A road leads from Longmires Springs
through Paradise Park to the (J M.) Camp of the Clouds (6000 ft.; Hotel
Tent, meals and blankets 3 2). The Alpine flora of the Park is very fine.
Close by is *Nisqually Glacier, 7 M. long, the finest to the S. of Alaska; and
many other glaciers and cascades may be reached within a day's walk.
The ascent of Mt. Rainier from this side, via GiWaltar and Camp Muir,
is much easier (2 days). — Other good opportunities for the climber are
afforded by the ten jagged peaks of the Tatoosh Range (ca. 7(X)0 ft.).
On the N. side of Mt. Rainier a large flume and reservoir have been
constructed in connection with the Puyallup River for the purpose of using
the overflow of the glaciers to generate electric power for the cities on
Puget Sound.
Fbom Tacoma to Olympia, 32 M., Northern Pacific Railway in IV2 hr.
Some of the Portland trains run by this route, joining the route described
below at (66 M.) Centralia. — Olympia {Olympia, from $2), the capital of
the State of Washington, is finely situated at the head of Puget Sound,
in the midst of a thickly wooded district. Pop. (1900) 3863. It carries
on a trade in agricultural produce, fruit, wool, and timber.
The Pacific Division of the Northern Pacific Railway runs to the
S. from Tacoma to Portland. Fine views of Mt. Rainier or Tacoma
(40 M. distant) are obtained to the left, through breaks in the forest.
1916 M. Lake View (325 ft.) is the point of divergence of the above-
mentioned liae to Olympia. 1941 M. Tenino (315 ft.), the junction
of another line to Olympia. — 1958 M. Centralia (205 ft.; 1947 in-
hab. ; see above) is the junction of a line to (85 M.) Moclips (Beach
Hotel, etc.), a popular sea-bathing resort on the Pacific Ocean.
1962 M. Chehalis, the junction of a line to South Bend, on the
Pacific Ocean. Farther on we descend along the Cowlitz, and glimp-
ses of Mt. Adams (p. 444) are obtained to the left.
fcAS^k bO-.^^^-
iClarta rorTcMLaes
i
;,^^ i^
YELLOWSTONE PARK. 72. Route. 447
At (2012 M.) Kalama (33 ft.) the train is transferred across tlie
wide Columbia River by a large steamer. 2013 M. Ooble, the junc-
tion of a line down the Columbia river to Astoria (p. 508), Seaside
(p. 508), and (80 M.) HoUaday. Beyond (2029 M.) Warren we skirt
the Willamette (p. 506). In clear weather views are had of Mt.
St. Helens (9750 ft. 5 to the N.E.), Mt. Hood (11,225 ft.), and
Mt. Jefferson (10,567 ft. ; to the S.E., more distant).
2052 M. Portland, see p. 506.
72. The Yellowstone National Park.
The **Yellowstone National Park, which, by Act of Congress on March
1st, 1872, was set apart as a public park or pleasure-ground 'for the bene-
fit and enjoyment of the people', consists of a tract 62 M. long from N.
to S. and 54 M. wide from E. to W., with an area of 3348 sq. M. To the
S., E., & N. of it lies the Yellowstone Forest Reserve of 13,070 sq. M., and to
the W. is the Madison Reserve of 1270 sq. M., both belonging to the Federal
Government but neither tinder control of the Park officials. The great bulk
of the Park lies in Wyoming, but small portions of it are in Montana (N.)
and Idaho (W.). The central portion of the Park consists of a broad vol-
canic plateau, with an average elevation of 8000 ft. above sea-level. Sur-
rounding this on all sides are mountains with peaks and ridges rising
2000-4000 ft. above the general level. To the S. are the grand Teton and
Wind River Ranges; to the E. the Absaroka Range. To the N.B. a confused
mass of mountains unites the Absarokas with the Snowy Range, which
shuts in the Park on the N. The beautiful Gallatin Range, on the N. and
K.W., lies partly within the national reservation. The whole district
has been the scene of remarkable volcanic activity at a comparatively late
geological epoch; and the traces of this activity, in the form of geysers,
boiling springs, terrace and crater formations, cliffs of obsidian, deeply-
cleft canyons, petrified trees, sulphur hills, and the like, are of the strangest
and most startling description (see p. 448). Its geysers are the largest in
the world, excelling those of New Zealand or Iceland. Its lakes and water-
falls are also fine, and the marvellously coloured Canyon of the Yellow-
stone (p. 458) perhaps outstrios even the geysers as an attraction. A great
part of the ground is covered with dense forests of lodge-pole pine and
Douglas spruce. The Park has become a huge game-preserve, and large num-
bers of wild animals, including the last free herd of buffaloes in America,
elk, deer, antelope, bears, big-horn sheep, etc., are sheltered in its re-
cesses. These free wild animals are a notable attraction to the tourist. No
shooting is allowed within the Park; but fishing is freely allowed, and
excellent sport (chiefly trout and grayling) may be obtained in the Yellow-
stone River, the Yellowstone Lake, and in nearly all the streams. The bot-
anist will find much to interest him in the flora of the district, and it need
scarcely be said that it is a peculiarly happy hunting-ground for the
geologist. — The Park is under the exclusive control of the Secretary of
the Interior, except in regard to improvement work, which falls to the
Secretary of War. Troops of U. S. cavalry are stationed at many points
to protect the natural curiosities. The rules of the Park may bo, seen at
the hotels, and any infringement of them is severely dealt with> — This
whole region was made known to the public by the Washburn Expedition
of 1870, but the fur-traders, trappers, and hunters had brought home
tales of its wonders as far back as 1830. Since 1870 the U. S. Governn^ent
has sent various scientific topographical and geological expeditions into
the Yellowstone, which has now been pretty thoroughly explored and
mapped (comp. p,450).
Geology of the Yellowstone Park (by Arnold Hague, U.S. Geological
Survey). Geological evidence shows that the processes of mountain building
were contemporaneous in all these ranges and took place near the close
448 Route 72. YELLOWSTONE PARK. Geology.
of Cretaceous time- By the uplieaval of the mountains a depressed basin
was formed, everywhere shut in by high land. Later, the pouring out
of vast masses of lavas converted this depressed region into the Park
plateau. Tertiary time was marked by great volcanic activity, lavas be-
ing piled up until the accumulated mass measured more than 2000 ft.
in thickness. At least two centres of volcanic eruptions, Mt. Washburn
and Mt. Sheridan, are known within this area. The plateau built up
of these lavas embraces an area of 50 by 40 M., the volcanic flows resting
against the steep spurs of the encircling mountains. Strictly speaking it
is not a plateau; at least it is by no means a level region, but presents
an undulating country characterized by bold escarpments and abrupt edges
of mesa-like ridges. It is accidented by shallow basins of varied outline
and scored by deep canyons and gorges. Evidences of fresh lava flows
within recent times are wholly wanting; nevertheless, over the Park
plateau the most unmistakable evidence of underground heat is every-
where to be seen in the waters of innumerable hot springs, geysers,
and solfataras. A careful study of all the phenomena leads to the theory
that the cause of the high temperatures of these waters is to be found in the
heated rocks below and that the origin of the heat is in some way as-
sociated with the source of volcanic energy. Surface waters, in percolat-
ing downward, have become heated by relatively small quantities of steam
rising through fissures in the rocks from much greater depths. Geysers
and hot springs return these meteoric waters to the surface. They are
in a sense volcanic phenomena and remain as evidence of the gradual
dying out of volcanic energy. If this theory is correct, proof of the long
continued action of thermal waters upon the rocks should be apparent,
as they must have been active forces ever since the cessation of volcanic
eruptions. Ascending currents of steam and acid waters have acted as
powerful agents in rock decomposition and have left an ineflfaceable im-
pression upon the surface of the country. This is shown by numerous
areas of altered lavas and extinct solfataras. No finer example of the
action of steam upon lavas can be seen than along the walls of the Yellow-
stone Canyon. To-day the greatest activity is found in the geyser basins.
The number of hot springs in the Park exceeds 4000. If to these be
added the fissures and fumaroles from which issue large volumes of steam
and acid vapours, the number of active vents would be greatly increased.
There are about 100 geysers in the Park. Between a geyser and a hot
spring no sharp line can be drawn, although a geyser may be defined as
a hot spring throwing with intermittent action a column of hot water and
steam into the air. A hot spring may boil incessantly without violent
eruptive energy; a geyser naay lie dormant for years without explosive
action and again break forth with renewed force.
Bunsen's theory of geyser action, which he announced after investigat-
ing the geysers of Iceland, is undoubtedly correct in its essential principles,
and has stood the test of careful study of the varied hydro-thermal phen-
omena in the Yellowstone Park, where they occur on so grand a scale. In
the latter locality it may be shown that it is not necessary that the geyser
conduit should be vertical or even straight. Bunsen's theory rests on the
well-known principle that the boiling point of water increases with pres-
sure and consequently the boiling point at the bottom of a long tube is
much higher than at the top. When heat is applied to the bottom of a
deep reservoir, explosive action is likely to follow, and in the case of a
geyser the expansive force of steam which is generated drives out vio-
lently the water in the tube which leads to the surface.
The thermal waters of the Park may be classed under three heads:
1st, calcareous waters carrying calcium carbonate in solution; 2nd, sili-
cious waters carrying free acid in solution; 3rd silicious alkaline waters
rich in silica. Calcareous waters are confined almost exclusively to the
Mammoth Hot Springs, which lie just to the N. of the Park plateau.
Although the waters break out in close proximity to the lavas, and un-
doubtedly receive their heat from volcanic sources, they reach the surface
through limestones. With a few exceptions silicious waters are found
issuing from the lavas from which they derive their mineral contents.
Routes. YELLOWSTONE PARK. 72. Route. 449
Acid waters may be recognized by efflorescent deposits of alum and soluble
salts of iron, and frequently by the presence of delicate sulphur crystals.
Alkaline springs present more of general interest than acid waters, as
it is only in connection with the former that geysers occur. They are
the principal waters of all the geyser basins and most hot spring areas.
They deposit mainly an amorphous silicious sinter, but in an endless
variety of forms, as is shown in the geyser cones and incrustations on
the surface and edges of hot pools.
It is these unrivalled hydro -thermal manifestations and their varied
phenomena that have made the Yellowstone Park famous throughout the
world, and gained for it the distinction of America's Wonderland.
Approaches and Plans of Tour. The season for visiting the Yellowstone
Park lasts from June 10th to Sept, 15th, and June and September are less
crowded than July and August. Hitherto the principal approach has been
visi Livingston on the Northern Pacific Railway (see p. 450 and R. 71). The charge
for a ro\ind trip ticket from Livingston, including railway between Living-
ston and Gardiner (each way), stage-fare for the regular tour in the Park,
and board and lodging at the Park hotels (for 5V2 days) is $55.00 (from
Mammoth Hot Springs $47.50). A return-ticket from St. Paul, Minneapolis,
or Duluth to Mammoth Hot Springs costs $34.50, and includes only rail-
way and stage fares; the return-fare, including the trip through the Park,
is $ 84.50. The roads throughout the Park are kept up by the U.S. Govern-
ment at great expense, and they are regularly watered to keep the dust
down as far as possible. Some of the drives, however, are rather tedious,
as the regular coaches make only 6 M. an hour on an average, and
lighter vehicles 7 M. The transportation from Gardiner is in the hands
of the YellovBstone Park ransportation Company, whose coaches are roomy
and strong. Tourists of simple tastes may put themselves in the hands
of the Wylie Permanent Camp Co. (Gardiner, Montana), which has erected
comfortable camps (tents) in different parts of the Park, and charges
$40 for the round trip from Gardiner, including six days' board (two
nights spent at the Upper Basin). Each additional day costs $3, and
this is also the charge for cyclists and those tourists who have their
own vehicles. Carriages may be hired at $ 10-15 per day (3-11 pers.) ; saddle-
horses $ 8V2 per day. The Raymond & Whitcomb Co. (p. xxii) conducts
parties from the larger towns to the Yellowstone at rates proportional
to those above mentioned, while similar parties are brought by the Penn-
sylvania R. R. from New York, by the Burlington Route from Chicago, etc.
Camping parties may secure a complete outfit, guides, etc., at the Mam-
moth Hot Springs Hotel (p. 450). — The Yellowstone may also be ap-
proached on the W. from Yellowstone^ on the Oregon Short Line R. R.
(p. 467), whence passenger enter the Park on the coaches of the Monida &
Yellowstone Stage Co., stopping first at the (19 M ) Lower Geyser Basin. These
coaches also make the regulation circular tours like that above mentioned
(fare $ 46.75). The Wylie Camp Co. also operates from the W. entrance
(6 days ; $ 40). Arrangements have been made by which the tourist may enter
the Park from Gardiner and quit it by Yellowstone (and vice versa). The
charge for a return-ticket from Omaha (p. 418) or Kansas City (p. 423), in-
cluding the trip through the Park from Yellowstone, is $ 78.25, from Port-
:and(p. 506), $85, from Salt Lake City (p. 499), $ 55. — From the E. the
Yellowstone Park may be reached from Cody (p. 422), the nearest railway-
station in this direction (about 94 M. from the Lake Outlet, near the Lake
Hotel, p. 456). This route, however, is used only by camping parties. —
Warm Wraps are necessary in the Yellowstone, as, however strong the sun
is by day, the nights are apt to be very chilly. — In 1808 the Park was
visited by 19,542 tourists.
Hotels. The hotels of the Yellowstone Park Association (headquarters
at Mammoth Hot Springs) are comfortable and well managed. The uniform
charge is $ 5 a day for the first week, then $ 4.50. The Association also owns
lunch-stations at Norris and at the Thumb of Yellowstone Lake.
Guides. Men to point out the way to the various points of interest
may be obtained at the hotels for a moderate fee; but really intelligent
Babdbkbr's United States. 4th Edit. 29
450 Route 72. YELLOWSTONE PARK. Mammoth Springs.
and efficient guides are still a desideratum. Mounted guide, for longer ex-
cursions, $5 per day.
Bibliography. Tlie most detailed account of the Yellowstone is that of
Prof. F. V. Hayden and his colleagues in the Twelfth Annual U. S. Geological
Report (1878), but the work likely to be of most use. to the tourist is Hiram
M. Chittenden's 'Yellowstone National Park' (new ed., 1903; $1.50). See
also Arnold Hague^s 'Geological History of the Yellowstone Park' (1887).
A small Ouide to the Yellowstone Park^ by A. B. Ouptill (25 c), may be bought
at the hotels. Good Photographs, by F. Jay Haynes, are also on sale.
a. From Livingston to Mammoth Hot Springs.
NoKTHEKN Pacific Railwai to (54 M.) Gardiner in 2V2 hrs. Stage
thence to (5 M.) Mammoth Hot Springs in 1 hr.
Livingston^ see p. 441. — The train ascends the valley of the
Yellowstone and soon passes through (3 M.) the *First Canyon of
the Yellowstone or Gate of the Mts., a goige about 1 M. long, with
rocky walls 2000 ft. high. The wider reach then entered is known
as Paradise Valley. 31 M. Daileys (4915 ft.). To the left is Emi-
grant Peak (10,960 ft.), at the head of Paradise Valley. Near (41 M.)
Sphinx (5070 ft.) we thread the fine ^Middle or Yankee Jim, Canyon,
'a gigantic and perfect piece of ice -work, with rocky sides
smoothly polished and striated from the bottom to the top' (Geikie).
As we approach the end of the railway, we see Cinnabar Mt. to
the right, with the curious ^DeviVs Slide, consisting of two dykes
of hard sandstone , 30 ft. apart, ascending the mountain for about
2000 ft.
54 M. Gardiner (5400 ft. ; Wylie Company's Hotel, comp. p. 449),
the terminus of the railway and the beginning of the stage-line, lies
at the confluence of the Yellowstone and the Gardiner Biver, where
it enters the Yellowstone Park. Opposite the tasteful rustic railway
station is a massive arch of rough basalt, 50 ft. high, with a tablet
bearing the words: 'For the benefit and enjoyment of the People'.
This is the entrance-gate to the Park. Beyond it the road ascends on
the right bank of the Gardiner and after 3 M. crosses from Montana
to Wyoming (p. 460). Between Gardiner and Mammoth Hot Springs
the road ascends 800 ft., by a continuous and easy grade.
5 M. *Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel (6215 ft.; 300 beds, incl.
annex) is finely situated on a plateau about 800 ft, above the Gar-
diner, with Mt. Everts (7900 ft.) rising to the E. (beyond the
river) and Terrace Mt. (8100 ft.) and Bunsen Peak (9100 ft.) to
the S. Mammoth Hot Springs is the business and administrative
centre of the Park, including the headquarters of the Super-
intendent, of the officers in charge of the improvement works
and weather observations, and of the hotel and transportation com-
panies. Adjacent is Fort Yellowstone, the military headquarters of
the park.
This is the starting-point and the terminus of the circular tour round the
Park, which may be made in either direction, though that followed below
is the one followed by the stages of the Transportation Co. and is pre-
Mammoth Spnngs. YELLOWSTONE PARK. 72. Route. 451
ferable, as reserving the fine Yellowstone Canyon to the last. Trunks and
other heavy luggage are left here. The drive through the Park is made
in coaches holding 8-11 people, and the same carriage is retained throughout
by those who perform the circuit within the usual time (51/2 days; fee
to driver customary).
Stages (fare $ 1) leave the hotel daily at 2 p.m., for a circuit of the
Terraces. A more satisfactory examination of the Terraces may be made
on foot, under the conduct of the Yellowstone Park Association Guide^ starting
at about 2.30 p.m. It is, however, preferable to visit the Terraces, if
possible, in the morning or late evening, since the heat reflected from the
glaring white formations is very trying. A guide is not indispensable, as
the hotel is scarcely lost sight of. Smoked glasses are a desirable pro-
tection to the eyes.
Opposite the hotel, on the slope of Terrace Mt., are the wonder-
ful *Forniation8 or Terraces formed by the calcareous deposits of
the Mammoth Hot Springs. These deposits cover an area of nearly
200 acres, comprising 10-12 distinct terraces and 70 active springs,
with a temperature varying from 65° to 165° Fahr. The main springs
now active lie just ahove the Terraces, the total height of which is
about 300 ft. The exquisite colouring of the formations (white,
cream, salmon, red, brown, yellow, green, etc.), the singularly
blue transparency of the water, and the striking arrangement
of the terraces combine to form a scene that has no rival since
the destruction of the famous Pink Terraces of New Zealand
(1886).
The first objects to attract the visitor's attention on leaving the hotel
are the cones of two extinct geysers, named Liberty Cap (52 ft. high) and
the OianCs Thumb. The path usually followed in visiting the Formations
diverges from the main road about 200 yds. to the S. of the former; the
path near the Giant's Thumb is generally taken in returning. Among the
chief points of interest are the Minerva Terrace^ the Jupiter Terrace^ the
Pulpit Terrace^ Cupicft Gave, the Harrow Gauge Terrace, the Orange Geyser
(a hot spring, not a geyser proper), the DeviVs Kitchen, Cleopatra Terrace
and Pools, Angel Terrace, and Hymen Terrace.
Those who stay more than a day at the Mammoth Hot Springs may
make several excursions, by carriage" or in the saddle. The drive around
Bunsen Peak is of special interest, going by "Middle Gardiner Falls (150 ft.
high), in a canyon 500 ft. deep. This trip may be combined with the ascent
of Bunsen Peak (half-a-day; 'View). /Sepulchre Mt. (9500 ft.) and Electric
Peak (p. 452) may also be ascended on horseback. An ascent of Mt. Everts
(p. 450), including a visit to the East Gardiner or Undine Falls, takes
about a day.
The visit to Towek Falls is usually made at present as a side-trip
from Mammoth Springs (22 M. ; stage in ca. 4 hrs.). The road crosses the
Middle Gardiner River by (IV2 M.) a high steel -arched bridge and then
ascends gradually to (12 M.) a high plateau. Thence it descends through
Crescent Hill Canyon and turns to the right (E.). After 5 M. we pass
the road leading to the left to Baronette Bridge, over the Yellowstone
(see p. 458), and to (12 M.) the Buffalo Farm in Lamar Valley.
b. From Mammotli Hot Springs to tlie Lower Geyser Basin.
40 M. Stage in about 10 hrs., including 2 hrs. at Norris.
The road ascends gradually to the S. up the N. slope of Terrace
Mt. to (23/4 M.) the strange formation of white travertine rocks
known as the Hoodoos and the Silver Oate, great blocks which rise
29*
452 Route 72. YELLOWSTONE PARK. Obsidian aiff.
75 ft. on either side of the road, and to (81/2 M.) the *6olden Gate,
where the W. hranch of the Gardiner passes between Bunsen Peak
and Terrace Mt. The name is said to be derived from the yellow
moss which grows on the rocky walls of the pass. Fine retrospect.
On issuing from the canyon, by a concrete viadnct of eleven arches,
which carries the road for 225 ft. along the face of the cliff, we
reach the pictnresqne Rustic Falls (60 ft.). Beyond we enter Swan
Lake Basin, on the farther side of which is the first Wylie Camp
(p. 449). To the right rise the snow-peaks of the Gallatin Range,
including (from right to left) Quadrant Mt. (10,125 ft.), Bannock
Peak (10,330 ft.), and Mt. Holmes (10,528 ft.). Behind us, to the
N.W., is Electric Peak (11,155 ft.), the highest mountain in the
Park. About 2 M. beyond Swan Lake we cross the middle fork of
the Gardiner. Farther on, 6-7 M. from the Golden Gate, are Willow
Park and Apollinaris Spring. To the left, 11/2 M. farther on, rises
the *Obsidian Cliff, a ridge of volcanic glass , 300 yds. long and
150-250 ft. high, once a favourite resort of the Indians, who made
arrow-heads of the obsidian. In the construction of the road the
large blocks of obsidian were shattered by being first heated by fires
and then douched with cold water. To the right lies Beaver Lake
(7415ft.), so called from the ancient beavers' dam (600 ft. long),
now overgrown with vegetation. The road skirts the lake for about
1 M., crosses the Green Creek, and then surmounts the watershed
(7550 ft.) between the Gardiner, flowing into the Yellowstone, and
the Gibhon, flowing into the Madison. We pass Roaring Mt. (1.),
the little Twin Lakes (r.), and the Devil's Frying Pan (r.).
About 20 M. from Mammoth Hot Springs is the smaU Norris Hotel
(7527 ft.), where a halt is made for luncheon. It lies in the Norris
Geyser Easin, which, though not to be compared with the larger
basins described at pp. 453, 454, contains features of considerable
interest. Some of its active geysers are of quite recent origin. Most
visitors will see as much as they wish of this basin by walking on
about 1 M. ahead of their carriage. A guide is provided free of
charge by the hotel. In this way they may see a boiling spring to
the left of the road; the Hurricane (right; sign-post); the Constant
Geyser, in a large tract of geyserite which is unsafe for walking
except on the board-walk, and the Black Growler, to the right.
A path diverging to the left leads to the Bath Tub, the Emerald
Pool, the Paint Pots, the New Crater, the (1/4 M.) Monarch Geyser
(no longer active), and the Minute Man. — Numerous other small
geysers and boiling springs are visible in various directions.
Beyond Norris Basin the road traverses (I3/4 M.) Elk Park, and
then follows the course of the Gibbon River, which forms here a series
of rapids a mile long. About 3V2 M. from Norris Hotel we enter
a valley named Gibbon Meadows, passing (near the third mile-post)
the two Chocolate Springs, one on each side of the river. About
1 M. farther on we descend the *Gibbon Canyon.
Fountain Geyser. YELLOWSTONE PARK. 72. Route. 453
About '/« M" to tlie E* Geft) of the entrance to the canyon are the
Artists' Paint Pots^ similar to those described below. — A path to the
right, «/* M. farthet on, leads to the Monument Geyser Basin., 1000 ft. above
the road, which may be neglected by the non-scientific tourist.
Abont 1 M. beyond the entrance of tlie canyon, to the right, is
*Beryl Spring, one of the loveliest boiling springs in the Park (15 ft.
across). Near the end of the canyon, to the left, 81/2 M. farther on,
are the *Oiblon Falls, 80 ft. high. About IV2 M. beyond Gibbon
Falls is a Wylie Lunch Station, at the point of junction of our road
with the N. branch of the Tellowstone Road, the W. approach (see
p. 467J. Farther on we descend gradually, across a somewhat un-
interesting tract, to the valley of the Firehole River, reaching it at
(43/4 M.) the point where our road is joined by the S. branch of the
Monida road. The next part of our road, ascending along the
Firehole River, is more interesting. In S^/2 M. we reach its junction
with Nez Perce Creek, so named from the campaign of 1877, waged
by General Howard against Chief Joseph of that tribe. About 1 1/2 M.
farther on, beyond a flat plain, we come to —
40 M. *rountain Hotel (7250 ft.), the usual halting-place for the
first night after leaving Mammoth Springs. Hot mineral baths may
be obtained at the hotel.
Every evening, at a point about 150 yds. behind the hotel, bears may
be seen eating the kitchen garbage of the day. They are so inoffensive
that, it is said, they would eat apples from the hands of the onlookers,
if the Park rules allowed such feeding. A similar sight may be witnessed
at all the hotels in the Park except that at Mammoth Hot Springs.
The *Lower Geyser Basin, which we have now reached, has an
area of 12-13 sq. M. and a mean elevation of about 7250 ft. It is
known to contain about 700 hot springs, besides a score or so of
geysers, arranged in groups. Within a few hundred yards of the
hotel is the *Fountain Geyser, which spouts every 2-4 hrs.
Though not very high (30-50 ft.), the eruption of this geyser is so
wide, has so many interlacing jets shooting in all directions, and
rises and falls with so many variations, that it ranks among the most
beautiful in the Park. The approach of an eruption, which lasts 15-
20 min. , is heralded by the gradual filling up of the crater. — About
50 ft. to the N. is the Clepsydra Spring, a small geyser. — Near
the Fountain Geyser are the very singular and curiously fascinating
^Mammotli Paint Pots, or Mud Puffs, a group of mud springs of
different colours (pink, yellow, etc.), within a crater about 40 ft. in
diameter. The mud is thrown up with a curious 'plopping' sound
and falls back into shapes resembling flowers, etc.
About 11/2 M. from the hotel, somewhat difficult of access on foot
owing to the marshy nature of the ground, but easily reached by
tourist wagon (fare 50 c), is the *Great Fountain Geyser, which
rises to a height of 100-150 ft. every 8-12 hrs. and is one of the
most remarkable geysers in the Park. Adjacent are many of the
most interesting springs, to be found in the Park, notably '^'Firehole,
Surprise, Mushroom^ and Dome.
^b4: Route 72. YELLOWSTONE PARK. Excelsior Oeystr.
c. From the Lower Geyser Basin to tlie Upper Geyser Basin.
9 M. Stage Coach in 21/2-3 hrs., including halt at the Midway Geyser
Basin (see below).
The road, whieli runs at first across a flat geyserite plain and then
throngli a rolling conntry, reaches the (3 M.) Firehole River exactly
opposite the Excelsior Geyser, in the Midway Geyser Basin, on the
W. bank of the river, where a halt is made.
This group includes the great *Ex.celsior Geyser, the largest geyser in
the world, throwing up nearly as much water as all the rest put together.
"With a short interval in 1890, it has not worked since 1^, when it
threw a huge mass of water to a height of 200-300 ft. Its crater is nearly
300 ft. long and 200 ft. wide, and its walls rise 15-20 ft. ahove the level
of the boiling water within. Its appearance amply justifies the name of
Hell's Half Acre, which is sometimes applied to it. — A little to the ^.
is the beautiful *Turquoise Spring, a pool 100 ft. in diameter, remarkable
for the intense blueness of its limpid water. — To the W. lies *Prismatic
Lake (400 ft. long and 250 ft. wide), the marvellous colouring of which is
indicated by its name. The volumes of steam which rise from It reflect
those colours in a very beautiful way.
About 3 M. beyond the Middle Geyser Basin we reach the begin-
ning of the Upper Geyser Basin (see below}, which the road to the
hotel traverses, following the course of the Firehole River. Among
the springs and geysers near the road as we proceed are tlxQ Artemisia
Spring (right], the ^Morning Glory (i.e. convolvnlns; left), the Fan
Geyser (r.), and the Mortar Geyser (r.). Beyond the bridge are the
Riverside [1.), the Grotto (1.), the Giant (1.), the Splendid (r.), the
Comet (r.), the Daisy Geyser (r.), the White Pyramid (r. ; at some
distance), the Punch Bowl (1.), the Black Sand Basin and Specimen
Lake (r.), Sunlight Basin (r. ; across the river), the Three Sisters (r.),
the Turlan (1.), the Grand (1.), the Saw Mill (1., these three beyond
the river), and the Castle (1.).
The * Upper Geyser Hotel or Old Faithful Inn is perhaps the
best in the Park.
The **Upper Geyser Basin (7300 ft), which is abont 4 sq. M. in
area, contains about 40 geysers (including the largest, after Excel-
sior, and finest in the Park) and many beautiful hot springs. Most
of the large springs and geysers are near the Firehole River. A good
general view of the district is obtained from a mound near the hotel.
The chief points of interest in the Upper Geyser Basin may be seen
in two rounds of about 3 M. , one on either side of the river, and about
half-a-day should be allowed for each; if necessary the two trips may be
combined (total distance ca. 4 M.). Hurried visitors who go on foot will
do well to follow the guide, who leaves the hotel daily and conducts
visitors to the geysers on the right bank of the river, ending the tour at
the Castle. It well repays the effort, however, to walk down the left bank
of the river as far as the Grotto and then retrace the stage-route of the
morning. In any case visitors should ascertain what geysers are 'due' and
arrange their itinerary accordingly. A table at the hotel gives the periodic
times of the different geysers, but few of them, with the exception of Old
Faithful, can be trusted. Those who wish to see all the large geysers
playing have to stay several days or even weeks; while some geysers
intermit their ernptions for months and years at a time. Most of the chief
geysers are marked by little wooden signs. Thick shoes or overshoes are
8ho8hone Lake. YELLOWSTONE PARK. 72. Route. 455
desirable, as parts of the formations are almost constantly wet from the
overflow of the geysers. — At night a search-light is turned on the geysers.
*01d Faithful, one of the most beautiful geysers in the Park, throws
its stream, at intervals of about 68 minutes, to a height of 125-150 ft. The
eruption lasts about 41/2 minutes. — Those who can devote two half-days
to excursions may follow the routes outlined below: Crossing the foot-
bridge in front of the hotel, we reach the 'Beehive, so called from the
appearance of its cone (4 ft. high), which throws a very compact stream
of water from its nozzle-like opening to a height of 150-200 ft. To the E.
of the Beehive is the *Giantess, the interesting exhibitions of which are
due once a fortnight (150 ft.). A little to the N.W. of the Giantess is the
Sponge, so called from the appearance of its crater. To the N.E. is an
interesting small spring known as the Butterfly. — A little farther to the
N. are the Lion.^ Lioness, and Cub, to the E. of which is the Beach. The
path next passes between Spasmodic (r.) and the ■■'Sate Mill (1., near a bridge
over the Firehole) and reaches the Turban and the *Grand, the irregular
eruptions of which last (200 ft. high) are very fine. Continuing to follow
the path towards the N., we pass ''Beauty Spring, cross the river, pass the
Oblong Geyser with its fine crater (to the right, close to the river), and
reach (1 M. from the hotel) the "Giant Geyser, perhaps the grandest geyser
in the Basin, which plays irregularly, throwing its column to a height of
250 ft. The eruption lasts for IV2 hr. About 200 yds. to the N. of the
Giant is the *Grotto, remarkable for its curiously-shaped cone. We recross
the river by the carriage-bridge, just above which, by the river's bank,
is the attractive -Riverside Geyser (thrice daily; 80 ft.). To the N., also
adjoining the river, are the Mortar and the Fan, so called from the shape
of its display, which usually follows that of Riverside. On the opposite
side of the road is the exquisite 'Morning Glory Spring, a most delicately
tinted pool, so called from its resemblance to a convolvulus or morning
glory. We may now return to the hotel (iVz M.) by the road passing the
*Castle, named from the shape of its crater (every 24 hrs. or so; 75 ft.).
Near the Castle is a pretty spring known as the Castle Well.
For our second circular walk we leave the hotel by a path leading
through trees to the N.W., with Iron Spring Creek a little to the left.
We cross this stream to visit the beautiful *Emerald Pool and *Sunset
Lake, and then recross it and follow the path past the little Mud Geyser,
to the curious Black Sand Basin and Specimen Lake, the latter a flat and dry
expanse, with numerous semi-petrified trees. A waggon-road leads hence
to the N. to the "BeviVt Pimch Bowl, about 1 M. from the hotel, and is
continued, sweeping round to the E., passing the Splendid, Comet, and
* Daisy Geysers, to the main carriage-road, which it joins near the Grotto
Geyser (see above).
The Biscuit Basin, part of the Upper Basin about 2 M. from the hotel,
is so called from its resemblance to a huge oven with biscuits baking. It
includes the ''Sapphire Pool, the Black Pearl, and the Silver Globe.
d. From Upper Geyser Basin to Yellowstone Lake Hotel.
35 M. Stage in 9 hrs., including a stoppage for luncheon.
The road ascends to the S.E. along the Firehole River to (1 V2 M.)
Kepler s Cascades^ where the river descends 130 ft in a series of leaps.
About 2 M. farther on it bends to the left and follows Spring Creek.
From this point a side-road leads to (2/4 M.) Lone Star Geyser, which
plays at intervals of V2-2 hrs., to a height of 30 to 50 ft. — About 5 M.
farther to the S., at the W. end of Shoshone Lake, is the Shoshone Geyser
Basin, with the Union and other interesting geysers and hot springs.
This may also be approached by the trail over Norrig Pass, which leaves
the stage-road about \^|^ M. beyond the road to Lone Star Geyser. Shoshone
Lake (7740 ft.), 6V2 M. long and 1/2-4 M. wide, consists of two expanses
united by a narrow strait. It is surrounded by wooded hills.
456 Route 72. YELLOWSTONE PARK. Yellowstone Lake.
Our road ascends steadily throngli the picturesque Spring Creek
Canyon, skirting the stream to its source at Craig Pass, on the (41/2 M.)
'Continental Divide' or Watershed of the Kocky Mts. (8250 ft.). Just
beyond the pass lies Isa Lake, a small lily-covered sheet of water on
the summit, which sends its waters on the one side to the Atlantic,
on the other to the Pacific Ocean. The 'Divide' makes a curious
horseshoe bend to the N. here, but the road continues in a straight
direction and hence still remains for some distance on the Pacific
slope. From Isa Lake we descend the steep and winding Corkscrew
Hill to De Lacy Creek. Beyond the Creek we ascend again, passing
(21/2 M.) Shoshone Point, which affords a beautiful view of Shoshone
Lake (p. 455) and a distant view (60 M.) of the historic Teton Mts.
(13,690 ft.; ascended twice only, in 1872 and 1898). We reach the
second crossing of the Divide (8350 ft.) 41/2 M. farther on, near Lost
Lake. The road then descends, passing Duck Lake, to (4 M.) Yellow-
stone Lake (see below) , which we reach at the West Bay or Thumb
(Luncheon Station). The Hot Spring Basin at the Thumb contains
about 70 hot springs, many of which are remarkable for their brilliant
colouring. One lies so close to the lake, that it is literally possible
to catch a trout in the lake and cook it in the spring without chang-
ing one's position. About 150 yds. from the lake is a group of *Paint
Pots, which many visitors consider more striking than those described
at p. 453. A Steamer plies from this point to (25 M.) the Yellow-
stone Lake Hotel (see below).
This steamer-trip forms a very attractive alternative route to tlie
hotel (fare $ IV2 extra).
From the Thumb Station a road leads to the S. to the (48 M.) Jackson Bole
and Teton Mts. It is much used as an approach to the Park by camping
parties from the S., while many tourists also make a side-trip from the
Park to see the grand scenery of the valley known as the Jackson Hole.
From the Thumb to the Hotel our road runs for some way along
the W. bank of * Yellowstone Lake (7721 ft; 1428 ft. above the
top of Mt. Washington, p. 331), one of the largest bodies of water
in the world at so lofty an altitude, having an area of 140 sq. M., a
shore-line of about 100 M., and a longest diameter of 18 M. Its
shape is irregular and has been likened to a hand with three fingers
and a thumb. The outlet is at the wrist (N.), near the Yellowstone
Lake Hotel. The lake is surrounded by lofty mountains. The Yellow-
stone River enters it on the S. and issues from it on the N. After
5 M. the road quits the lake and leads across the hills (a somewhat
monotonous route) to (9 M.) Bridge Bay, where it regains the lake.
The bay gets its name from a curious Natural Bridge, 40 ft. high and
30 ft. across, passed about 1 1/2 M. before we reach the bay. A drive
of 2 M. more along the N. shore brings us to the Hotel.
The *Yellowstone Lake Hotel, 35 M. from the Upper Basin, is
well situated on a bluff overlooking the lake and backed by a forest.
It commands a fine view of the lake and of the Absaroka Mts. beyond.
Among the chief of these (named from N. to S.) are Mts. Cathedral
Mud Caldron. YELLOWSTONE PARK. 72. Route. 457
(10,700 ft.), Chittenden (10,190 ft.), Silver Tip (10,400 ft.), Grizzly
(9700 ft.), Doane (10,500 ft.), Langford (10,600 ft.), Stevenson
(10,300 ft.), Atkins (10,900 ft.), Schurz (10,900 ft.), Eagle Peak
(10,800 ft.), and Table (10,800 ft.). Nearly due S., considerably to
the right of those just mentioned, are the Eed Mts., culminating in
Mts. Sheridan (10,250 ft.) and Hancock (10,100 ft.). The numerous
islands in the lake also enter pleasantly into the view.
Boats (per hour 50 c, with rower $ 1) may be hired for excursions,
and the fishing is excellent, the trout being large and voracious (use of
fishing-tackle 50 c. a day). — The bears in the adjoining forest are as
tame as those mentioned at p. 453.
Near the Yellowstone Lake ends the E. approach to the Park, which
begins at Cody (comp. p. 449), 34 M. beyond the boundary of the Forest
Reserve, through which and through the Park it runs for 60 M. to this
point. A pleasant excursion may be made in a day from the hotel to (10 M.)
Pelican Creek and (22 M.) Sylvan Fast. The scenery on the route to Cody,
particularly in Sylvan Pass and along the Shoshone River, is very grand.
e. From Yellowstone Lake to the Grand Canyon.
17 M. Stage in S'/a hrs.
The road leads to the N. and N.W., following the left bank of the
Yellowstone River. About 71/2 M. from the hotel, to the left, is the
*Mud Caldron or Volcano, one of the weirdest and most extraordinary
sights in the Park. It consists of a circular crater about 40 ft.
deep, the bottom of which is filled with boiling mud, constantly
rising in pasty bubblings, interspersed with more violent eruptions.
The horrible appearance of the muddy pulsations and the groaning
sounds which accompany them suggest an entrance to Inferno, with
the spirits of the damned making abortive efforts to escape. — The
road here enters Eayden Valley, a broad open tract along the Yellow-
stone. At Trout Creek, 2 M. farther on, a branch-road or loop di-
verges for Sulphur Mt., or the Crater Hills (150 ft.), where large
amounts of sulphur have been deposited by the various vents. The
large boiling spring, at the foot of the highest hill, is strongly im-
pregnated with sulphur, and its fumes are very disagreeable. To the
left are several small mud-springs. These are best visited from the
Grand Canyon Hotel. The stage-road continues to (31/2 M.) Alum
Creek, about 2V2 M. beyond which we arrive at the head of the
rapids of the Yellowstone, just above the Upper Falls. To the right
here is a new concrete and steel bridge, crossing the river and giving
access to Artist's Point (p. 458). Our road continues in a straight
direction, crosses a wooden bridge, and passes close to the Upper
Falls (p. 458). In 1/4 M. more we reach the junction of the cross-
road to (11 M.) Norriji (see p. 452), then cross Cascade Creek on a
steel arch bridge of 250 ft. span, and ascend the hill, with a capital
view of the Grand Canyon, to the —
*Grand Canyon Hotel (7710 ft.), which is finely situated on an
elevated plateau, about 1/4 M. from the river and the upper end of the
canyon. It is a pleasant point for a stay of a few days, as the attrac-
458 Route 72. YELLOWSTONE PARK. Grand Canyon.
tions of tlie canyon demand repeated visits, while good fishing may
be enjoyed in the river above and below the falls.
The **Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, in some ways the most
marvellous and indubitably the most beautiful of the wonders of the
Yellowstone, extends from the Great Falls (see below) to a point
near the E, Fork, a distance of about 20 M. Its depth is from 600
to 1200 ft., and its width at the top varies from about 300 yds. to
i500 yds. The upper part of the canyon, where it is at its deepest
and narrowest, is also the scene of its most gorgeous colouring, the
tints of the enclosing cliffs including the most brilliant shades of
red, orange, yellow, and purple, 'as if a rainbow had fallen from the
sky and been shattered on the rocks'. The formation of the crags
and cliffs is exceedingly bold and picturesque. Far below flows the
river, a thread of the most exquisite green. The margins of the canyon
are fringed with dark-green pines.
Visitors should follow the good road which runs to the S.E. from the
hotel across the grass (comp. map of canyon in hotel), enters the wood,
and leads to the brink of the canyon, where a flight of 500 steps descends
to the top of the Falls. Following the road to the E, we reach 0/2 M.)
*Look-out Point, affording one of the finest views of it. To the W. appear
the Lower Falls (see below), at the head of the canyon. [The Red Rock, below
Look-out Point, reached by a steep but safe trail, also affords a good
view of the falls.] Continuing on the road along the edge of the canyon
we pass various good points of view. — IV2 M. Grand View, opposite
Artisfs Point (see below). A small geyser may be observed sending up its
column of steam far below on the side of the chasm, and a quick eye
will easily detect some eagles' nests on the inaccessible peaks of the
pinnacles of rock below us. In about IV2 M. we reach "^Inspiration Point
(1000 ft. above the river), which commands a splendid view of the gorgeous
colours of the upper part of the canyon (afternoon-light the best) and of
the more sombre hues of the pine-clad Lower Canyon. This is the limit
of the road in this direction and we may now retrace our steps. [Those
who do not care to walk hoth ways can ride or drive to Inspiration Point
and Look-out Point (fare $ 1; no charge made by Wylie Co.).]
The **Great or Lower Falls of the Yellowstone, as striking, though not
so high, as the famous falls of the Yosemite (p. 545), plunge from a
height of 360 ft. into the abyss of the chasm. The river suddenly con-
tracts here from a width of 250 ft. to 75 ft. The falls are reached from
the hotel in 10-20 min. either by steps or by an easy trail diverging from
the road at the bridge over the Cascade Creek (p. 45T). The platform at
the head of the falls commands a fine view of the canyon, with Look-out
Point conspicuous to the left (Inspiration Point concealed). — To reach
the 'Upper Falls, which are 1/2 ^- farther up and about 110 ft. high, we
cross the above-mentioned bridge, follow the road for a few minutes
more to the junction point, cross a second bridge (to the left), and then
follow the road through the wood. The rapids above the Upper Falls
are picturesque; the stretch of water between the two falls is to all
appearance calm and sluggish, though the current is really very rapid. —
Some good views are also obtained from the opposite side of the canyon,
which may be reached by the new bridge mentioned at p. 457, One of
the grandest is that from Artisf's Point, near which Thomas Moran painted
the picture of the Yellowstone, now in the Capitol at Washington (p. 216).
From thb Grand Canton to Mt. Washburn and Toweb Falls (20 M.;
stage in 5 hrs., including stop at the summit of Mt. Washburn). This is
a remarkable mountain dxive, presenting grand scenery of a character
entirely different from that passed through in other parts of the circuit
of the Park. From the hotel the road ascends gradually along the wooded.
Tower FalU. YELLOWSTONE PARK. 72. Route. 459
S. slope of Mt. Washburn, affording beautiful views and traversing vast
fields of wild flowers. At (7 M.) Bunraven Pass (8865 ft.) the road divides,
the main and nearly level branch leading straight on through the pass
and along the W. flank of the mountain. We, however, take the branch
to the right, which ascends in many steep zigzags and windings, to (3 M.)
the top of Mt. Washburn (10,345 ft.), about 1500 ft. above Dunraven Pass.
The splendid *View from this point includes a large part of the Park,
Yellowstone Lake, the Teton Mts., Cinnabar Mt., and the Absaroka and
Gallatin ranges. Mt. Washburn was one of the craters which threw out
the material which now composes the Park plateau, and its outlines can
be traced to the W. of the summit, on the watershed of Tower Creek. ^-
From the top the road descends the slope to (3 M.J the point of junction
with the main road (see above ; 4 M. from the point of divergence). It
then continues the descent to (6 M.) Toveer Creek, which we cross near the
*Tower Falls (110 ft. in height) , perhaps the most beautiful in the Park.
They are not, however, visible from the road. About 1/2 M. farther on
the road passes under an overhanging cliff on the left (200 ft.), while on the
right we look down into the chasm of the Yellowstone, 500 ft. deep. Above
the bed of the river rises the Needle, a vertical column of rock, 360 ft. high.
This is an excellent centre for excursions and fishing. Among the
points of interest are the Petrified Forests, Lost Creek Canyon and Falls,
Lamar River Canyon, Soda Butte, and Death Gulch. To the E., among the
Absaroka Mts. (p. 456), is the region known as Hoodoo or Goblin Land,
where the extraordinarily grotesque forms of the rocks and crags will
repay the lover of the marvellous who is prepared for a somewhat rough
and trying expedition. — A hotel is to be built here, and in the meantime
quarters may be obtained at the Roosevelt Camp (Wylie; $ 3), about 2 M.
from the falls (comp. p. 452).
The region about the Tower Falls Hotel is known popularly as Tancey's'',
from John Yancey (d. 1903), who kept an inn here for many years.
f. From the Yellowstone Canyon to Hanunoth Hot Springs.
82 M. Stage in 7-8 hrs.
We retnra across the steel bridge to the Norris Basin road
(p. 457), which leads to the W. through pine forests, gradually
ascending to (81/2 M.) the 'divide' (8100 ft.) between the Yellow-
stone and the Missouri. About 2 M. farther on are the Twin or
Wedded Trees, two pines connected by a branch. At (81/2 M.) the
Virginia Cascades the road is carried along the face of the cliff by
a clever piece of engineering. — 3 M. Norris Hotel (p. 452).
Hence to (20 M.) Mammoth Hot Springs, see E. 72 b.
73. From Council Bluffs and Omaha to San Francisco.
1787 M. Union Pacific Railroad to (1004 M.) Ogden in 29-34 hrs. and
Southern Pacific Railway thence to (1787 M.) San Francisco in 27 hrs.
(through-fare $50; sleeper $11.50). Through-carriages (with baths, barber's
shop, etc.) and dining-cars (meals A la carte) are attached to the two daily
trains, the 'Overland Limited' and the 'China & Jrpan Fast Mail'. The
'Overland Limited' connects at Oakland Pier with Pullman sleepers for
Los Angeles (R. 82a), while the 'Fast Mail' connects with a Los Angeles
sleeper at Cheyenne (p. 460). Passengers from New York to San Francisco
by this route (in ca. 472 days; fare, see p. xxii) change carriages at Chicago.
The opening of the Union Pacific and Central Pacific Railways (the
latter now absorbed in the Southern Pacific system) in 1869 completed the
first railway route from the Atlantic to the Pacific. The undertaking was
460 Route 73. CHEYENNE. From Cmncil Bluffs
performed with the aid of large subsidies in money and land from the
U.S. Government. Though theEockies and several other mountain-ranges
are crossed, the gradients are seldom severer than 1:50, and no tunnels
were necessary excent in Utah and across the Sierra Nevada.
Council Bluffs and Omdha^ see pp. 417, 418. The train at first tra-
verses the manufacturing suburbs of Omaha. Beyond (31 M.) Elkhorn
(1165 ft.) we run along the left bank of the Platte River, through a
farming and prairie district. At (49 M.) Fremont (1190 ft.) we are
joined by a line from Sioux City (p. 398). 94 M. Columbus (1440 ft),
the junction of lines to Sioux City and other points. Our train
crosses the Loup Fork and enters upon an absolutely straight
stretch of track 40 M. in length. 156 M. Grand Island (1860 ft.),
a railway- centre of some importance; 199 M. Kearney (2145 ft);
234 M. Lexington (2385 ft.). At (294 M.) North Platte (2795 ft ;
3640 inhab.) we cross the North Platte River and pass from 'Central'
to 'Mountain' time (p. xiv). — At (375 M.) Julesburg (3455 ft.),
the junction of the direct line to Denver (see R. 66 c), the line dips
into Colorado but returns almost at once to Nebraska. We now
quit the Platte River, which we have followed for about 350 M.
Near (417 M.) Sidney (4090 ft.) the train passes from the farming
district of Nebraska into the grazing district, in which immense
herds of cattle are reared. Between (468 M.) Bushnell and (476 M.)
Pine Bluffs we enter Wyoming, called the 'Equality State' because
its men and women have equal voting rights. — 519 M. Cheyenne
(pron. Shy^nn; 6050 ft; Inter-Ocean Hotel, $2-31/2; Normandie,
R. from 50 c), the capital of Wyoming (see above), with (1906)
13,656 inhab., is the junction of the Denver Pacific branch of the
U. P. System (from Kansas City and Denver; comp. pp. 475, 476).
It is one of the chief centres of the cattle industry of the N.W. Fort
Russell lies 4 M. to the N. of Cheyenne. — The snow-clad peaks of the
Rocky Mts. now come into sight on the left, including Long's Peak
(p. 473) and the distant Spanish Peaks (p. 492). To the N. (right)
are the Black Mts. The train ascends rapidly , passing (638 M.)
Granite Canyon (7310 ft), tunnels through Sherman Hill, and
at (652 M.) Sherman (8000 ft) reaches the culminating point of the
line, where we cross the main ridge of the Eocky Mts., the great
'Continental Divide'. To the left is the Ames Monument, 66 ft. high,
erected to Oakes and Oliver Ames, to whom the completion of the
U. P. Railway was mainly due. To the left may be descried Pike's
Peak (p. 491), 165 M. off. To the right are the Red Buttes. — 576 M.
Laramie (7150 ft; Pacific Hotel, $4; Johnson, Kuster, $2), a city
of (1905) 7601 inhab., lies on the Big Laramie River, in the midst
of the so-called Laramie Plains, one of the best grazing districts in
the United States. It is a wool-market of considerable importance.
In summer stages ply from Laramie to *North Park, which lies about
60 M. to the S. North Park is one of the great natural parks of Colo-
rado, which consist of large elevated plains or upland valleys surrounded
by lofty mountains. They offer considerable attractions to the adventur-
ous traveller and to the sportsman in search of large game, but are some-
to San Francisco. OGDEN. 73. Route. 461
what bevond the range of the ordinary tourist. North Park has an area
of 2000-2500 sq. M., with a mean elevation of 8-9000 ft. It may also be
reached from Denver via Fort Collim (see p. 474). The other natural
parks of Colorado are Middle Park (p. 475), Estes lark (p. 473), South
Park (p. 475), and San Luu Park (p. 492).
Beyond Laramie the train continues to descend through rugged
hilly scenery. To the right rises Laramie Peak (9000 ft), to the left
Elk Ml (11,510 ft), the N. outpost of the Medicine Bow Mta. 615 M.
Rock River (6700 ft; Rail. Restaurant); 637 M. Allen (6815 ft),
653 M. Hanna (6790 ft.). Beyond (678 M.) Fort Steele (6505 ft.)
we cross the North Platte, which re-appears here, 300 M. from the point
we last saw it (see p. 460). We now begin to ascend again. 693 M.
Rawlins (6745 ft.). We now cross another (725 M.) ^Continental
Divide' (7100 ft), beyond which the train descends to the plains.
787 M. Point of Rocks (6505 ft.). At (827 M.) Green River (6080 ft.)
we cross the river of that name, and the scenery again improves.
The construction of the line between Green River and (840 M.)
Bryan (6185 ft.) deserves attention.
857 M. Granger (6280 ft) is the point at which the Portland line
(Oregon Short Line) diverges to the right from the San Francisco
line (see p. 467). The latter continues to run towards the W. through
a somewhat monotonous country. Good views to the left of the
snow-clad Uintah Mts.^ the only range in the United States running
E. and W. 886 M. Carter (6510 ft). Beyond (901 M.) Leroy (6700ft.)
we pierce Aspen Ridge, one of the E. foot-hills of the Wasatcli
or Wahsatch Mountains , by a tunnel 1970 yds. long. 927 M.
Evanston (6760 ft.). About 8 M. farther on we enter Utah (called by
the Mormons 'Deseret'). The Utah Enclosed Basin, which we now
traverse, is remarkable for the fact that its waters have no outlet to the
sea, but flow into salt lakes which in summer get rid of their surplus
by evaporation. At (947 M.) Castle Rock (6240 ft), where an obser-
vation car is attached to the train, we enter the wild *Echo Canyon,
with its wonderful rock and mountain scenery. We emerge from
this near (963 M.) Echo (5470 ft.), and a little farther on reach the
*Weber Canyon, wider and less confined than Echo Canyon, but
in its way equally imposing. Tunnels. Beyond (986 M.) Peterson
(4895 ft.) we descend into the Valley of Salt Lake.
1004M. Ogden(4300ft ; Reed Ho. , R. from 75c. *Depot Hotel,mih.
rail, restaurant, R. from $ 1, D. 75 c. ; Broom House, R. from75 c), the
W. terminus of the Union Pacific R. R. and the E. terminus of this
section of the Southern Pacific R. R., is a prosperous industrial city
of (1900) 16,313 inhab., situated on a lofty plateau surrounded by
mountains. It is also the terminus of the Rio Grande Western Rail-
way (see R. 77 a). Salt Lake City lies 37 M. to the S. (see p. 499).
From Ogden to Pocatello, 134 M. , Oregon Short Line in 5 hrs. —
The line runs to the N., affording views of Salt Lake (p. 502) to the
left. Beyond (9 M.) Utah Hot Springs, at the base of the Wahsatch Mts.,
we see to the right some fine crag scenery with curious conical peaks.
From (14 M.) Willard a visit may be paid to the (3M.) Will ard Falls and
462 Route 73. HAZEN. From CouncU Bluffs
Canyon. Beyond this point the ancient bench-marks on the mountains are
very conspicnous. Between (21 M.) Brigham and (30 M.) Honeyville we cross
a small shallow lake. Farther on the scenery is imposing, with the deep
'Bear River Canyon to the left, while the rocky hills tower above us to
the right. We cross two lateral gorges on trestles. On the other side of
the canyon is an irrigating canal, a fine piece of engineering, tunnelled
at several points through the rock. 49 M. Cache Junction; 71 M. Dayton;
111 M. McCammon. — 134 M. Pocatello, see p. 467.
A favourite point in the neighbourhood is the ~Ogden River Canyon (a.
drive of Vshr.). — From Ogden to Salt Lake City, see p. 497.
To tlie W. of Ogden we continue onr joTuney by the Southern
Pacific Railroad, wMcli formerly was carried aronnd tlie N. end of Salt
Lake, but now crosses tbat sheet of water, nearly in the middle, on
a trestle 23 M. long, almost all of which is to be filled in with solid
earthwork. By the construction of this so-called 'Salt Lake Cut-off',
which cost $4,500,000 (900,000 Z.), the railway has been shortened
by 44 M., and improved by the consec[uent elimination of curves and
grades. Farther to the W., more than 360 M. of the original road-
bed of the Central Pacific Railroad have been abandoned. By all
this colossal work the time of the transcontinental journey has been
reduced by about 7hrs.
1108 M. Vmbria is the end of the cut-off. To the S.W. rises Pilot
Peak (10,900 ft). Just before reaching (1118 M.J Tecoma (4810 ft.)
we enter Nevada ('Sage Brush State'}, the boundary being marked
by a stone monument. 1145 M. Coire, junction of a line to (141 M.)
Ely. At (1156 M.) Pequop (6185 ft.) we cross the ridge of the Pequop
Mts. We then descend into Independence Valley and re-ascend to
(1171 M.) Moor (6165 ft.), in Cedar Pass. 1180 M. Wells (5630 ft),
with several springs, to some of which no bottom has been found;
1213 M. Halleck (5230 ft) ; 1235 M. Elko (5065 ft ; Rail. Restaurant).
Elko Mt. is seen first to the right and then to the left. Piute Indians
now begin to show themselves at the stations, offering for sale baskets,
moss-agates in tiny bottles, and other odd wares. 1261 M. Carlin
(4905 ft). 1270 M. Palisade (4840 ft) , in a small canyon, is the
junction of a narrow-gauge line to (80 M.) Eureka, in a rich mining
district. Farther on we cross the Humboldt River, and follow it for
some time. To the N. are the Cortez Mts. 1321 M. Battle Mountain
(4510 ft), junction of a line to (93 M.) Austin. 1381 M. Winne-
mucca (4330 ft). To the N. are the Santa Rosa Mts. Beyond (1421 M.)
Humboldt (4235 ft), a tiny oasis in the desert, we again cross the
Humboldt River, which flows into the Humboldt or Carson'Sink, to
the S. of the line. — 1482 M. White Plains (3895 ft.), the lowest
point on the line for 1300 M. — 1497 M. Hazen (4070 ft).
From Hazen to Fallon, 16 M., Southern Pacific Railway in IV* hr.
This line opens up the '■Carson Sink' region, where at least 400,000 acres
are now being reclaimed for cnltivation by the so-called Truckee- Carson
Irrigation Project (to cost $ 9,000,000), by which the superfluous water of
the Truckee is transferred to the bed of the Carson. — Fallon has about
1000 inhab, and is growing rapidly.
Fbom Hazen to Keelek, 2S8 M., SoutTiern Pacific Railway in 18 hrs. —
This line gives access to a rich mining district. — 28 M. Churchill; 128 M.
Mina ; 187 M. Tonopah Junction (p. 463) ; 234 M. Alvord. — 288 M. KnUr.
to Sm Fra-nciscO. RENO. 73. Route. 463
From Tonopah Junction (p. 462) the Tonopah & Goldfield R. R. runs
to (60 M.) Tdnopah (6200 ft.; 12,000 inhab.) and (91 M.) Goldfield (6700 ft.-,
15,(XX) inhab.), two new and very productive gold-mining settlements.
From Goldfield the Tonopah & Tidetoater R. R. runs to the S. through
the Bullfrog mining district to (241 M.) Ludlow (p. 484). — 72 M. Beatty
and (81 M.) Rhyolite are the chief centres of the Bullfrog district. — From.
(119 M.) Death Valley unction a branch-line rung to (7 M.) Ryan. This is the
starting-point for explorers of the notorious Death Valley^ a thirsty wilderness,
which acquired its name from the loss of numerous emigrants who attempted
to pass through it in 1849. It contains the lowest point in the United States
(ca. 275 ft. below sea-level), which, curiously enough, is in the same
state as and only 75 M. from the highest point (Mt. Whitney, p. 484), The
valley has a certain economical value as a source of borax. — Automobiles
have done good service in the Nevada deserts and are used in many
places on regular stage-routes.
At (1516 M.) Derly (4085 ft.) we begin the long ascent to tlie ridge
of the Sierra Nevada, following the Truckee Biver, which we cross nine
times before arriving at Reno. The scenery becomes picturesque. —
1543 M. Eeno (4500 ft.; Riverside, $21/2; Golden Eagle, R. from
$ 1), a busy town of 4500 inhab., with the State University of
Nevada (300 students ; School of Mines), flour-miUs, and smelters.
From Reno to Virginia City, 52 M., railway in 3 hrs. The chief inter-
mediate station is (31 M.) Carson {Arlington, $2-3), the capital of Nevada,
a smaU city of 21(X) inhabitants. Stages run hence daily (fare $2) to (15 M.)
Olenbrook, on Lake Tahoe (see below).
52 M. Virginia City (6205 ft.; International, $2-3), a silver-mining city
of 2695 inhab., will well repay a visit to all who are interested in min-
ing. The famous Comstock Lode has produced (since 1859) gold and silver
to the amount of $300,000,000 (60,000,000/.). The Sutro Tunnel, which
drained the lode, is nearly 4 M. long and cost $2,500,000. Mi. Davidson
(7825 ft.) commands an extensive view. — Tourists may leave Reno in the
morning, spend the greater part of the day at Virginia City, return for the
night to Carson, drive to Qlenhrook (see below) next day, cross Lake Tahoe
to Tahoe, and go thence by train to (15 M.) Truckee (see below).
Eeno is also the junction of a narrow-gauge railway running N. to
(144 M.) Madeline and (164 M.) Likely. Between the main South Pacific line
and the N. end of Lake Tahoe rises Mt. Rose (10,800 ft.), with a weather-
observatory on its top.
Beyond Reno the train enters California ('El Dorado State'). —
1578 M. Truckee (5820 ft.).
From Truckee to Tahoe, 15 M., railway in 1 hr. (return- fare, including
steamer-circuit of Lake Tahoe, $ 5). — The narrow-gauge line runs through
the picturesque Truckee River Canyon. 11 M. Deer Park, for (21/2 M.) Deer
Park Springs (Hotel, $ 21/2-8). — 15 M. Tahoe {Tahoe Tavern, with room
for 300 guests, $ 3-4) lies on the W. bank of the beautiful *Lake Tahoe
(6225 ft.), which is 23 M. long, 12 M. wide, and 2000 ft. deep. Its clear,
ice-cold water never freezes, although surrounded by snow-clad mountains.
It is one of the most attractive scenic features of California. — A small
steamer, plying in connection with the trains, makes the round of the lake
(8 hrs.), calling at McEinney^s (Hotel, $ 10-15 per week), Rubicon Park ($ 2),
Tallac (Tallac Hotel, from $ 2V2, R. from $ 1), Glenbrook (Glenbrook Inn,
$21/2), Brockicay (Hotel, from $21/2), and other points.
Numerous snow-sheds are now passed. About 3 M. to the W. of
Truckee is the pretty Lake Donner, the name of which is associated
with a sad tale of suffering and death in the early annals of the pio-
neers of California (1846-47). The train continues to ascend, through
imposing scenery, and reaches the highest point of the pass across the
464 Route 73. SIERRA NEVADA. From Council Bluffs
Sierra Nevada at (1592 M.) Summit Station (7020 ft), where we
tliread a tunnel 530 yds. long. About 4 M. to the N. is Aft. Stanford
or Fremont's Peak (9175 ft. ; *View).
The Sierra Nevada ('Snowy Range') is the name given in California
to the magnificent range the N. continuation of which, in Oregon and
Washington, is known as the Cascade His. (see p. 444). It forms the W. edge
of the highest portion of the Cordilleran system (p. Ixvi) and is, perhaps,
on the whole the most conspicuous chain of mountains in the country.
From Mt. San Jacinto to Mt. Shasta it is about 600 M. long; but some
geographers consider that the Sierra proper ends at Lassen's Peak, 100 M.
to the S. of Mt. Shasta. Geologically, this is certainly true, for the Cas-
cades, including Lassen's Peak and Shasta, are volcanic, and the Sierra
is not (comp. p. 506). The average elevation of the Sierra is 8-10,000 ft.,
and several of its peaks, such as Mt. Whitney (p. 484), Mt. Shasta (p. 505),
Mt. Williamson (14,385 ft.), Mt. Tyndall (14,025 ft.), Mt. Langley (14,042 ft.),
and Mt. Corcoran (14,095 ft,), attain heights of over 14,000 ft. The Yotemite
Valley (p. 542) and its enclosing peaks are, perhaps, the best-known part
of the Sierra Nevada; but it abounds throughout in the grandest mountain-
scenery and offers many opportunities for the Alpine explorer. There are
some large glaciers in the N. part of the range. The first number of the'Alpina
America', the quarterly journal of the American Alpine Club, is devoted to
an account of the Sierra Nevada by Joseph N. Le Conte (Jan., 1907).
As we descend on the Californian side of the range the scenery
continues to be very picturesque, while the change in vegetation and
the brilliance of the flowers announce the mild climate of the Pacific
Slope. The descent is very rapid , and the transition from snow-
wreaths to sub-tropical vegetation comes with startling swiftness.
At places the line runs along the face of precipices, on ledges
barely wide enough to accommodate the tracks. Snow-sheds, cover-
ing about 37 M. of the track, cut off much of the view at first ; but
this has been greatly remedied, of late, by the construction of open-
ings on the level of the car-windows. Many traces of the placer- min-
ing of the 'Forty-Niners' are visible on both sides. — 1614 M. Emi-
grant Gap (5225 ft); 1619m. Blue Canyon [4695 ft.) ; 1631 M. Dutch
Flat (3395 ft.). Farther on we pass the rocky promontory known as
*Cape Horn. From (1643 M.) Colfax (2420 ft.) a narrow-gauge line
runs to (17 M.) Grass Valley (4719 inhab.) and (23 M.) Nevada
City (3250 inhab.), two gold-mining settlements. 1661 M. Auburn
(1360 ft. 5 Freeman, $ 2). Orchards and vineyards are now numerous.
Oranges grow at (1666 M.) Newcastle (955 ft), ripening very early
in the year. 1679 M. Boseville Junction (165 ft. ; p. 504).
1697 M. Sacramento (30 ft; Sacramento^ from $2; Golden
Eagle, from $21/2; Capitol, R. from $1), the capital of California,
wi^ 29,282 inhab, , lies on the E. bank of the Sacramento River,
just below its confluence with the American River. It is regularly
laid out, with wide straight streets, shaded with trees and bordered
by gardens. It is an important railway- centre and carries on an active
trade. The most conspicuous building is the State Capitol, a large
and handsome structure containing a library of 150,000 vols, (fine view
from dome). It is surrounded by a pleasant park, containing an
'Insectary', for the propagation of parasites of injnrions insects.
Other important edifices are the Court House, the Free Public Library
to San Francisco. STOCKTON. 73. Route. 465
(40,000 vols.), the Orphanage^ tlie Roman Latholic andthe Protestant
Episcopal Cathedrals^ and other cliurclies. The Crocker Art Gallery
contains pictures, Californian minerals, and a school of art. The State
Agricultural Society has an exhibition building. Fort Sutter Park
contains a reproduction of the fort established here in 1840.
The Riverside Drive along the Sacramento is pleasant. — From Sacramento
to its mouth the banks of the river are one vast orchard and garden. Steamers
ply to San Francisco, showing levees, dredgers at work, and fields of beans,
hemp, and alfalfa. Up the river are extense hop-gardens (harvest in Aug.). —
MoTOE Railwat Cars, made at Omaha (comp. p. 418), run from Sacramento
to Folsom (see below), Marysville^ Chico (p. 504), Oroyt7/e, and other points.
Fkom Sacramento to Latheop, 57 M., railway in 274 hrs. This line
formed part of the old route from Sacramento to^ San Francisco. — 21 M.
Folsom, with gold-dredging. — 48 M. Stockton (25 ft. ; Fosemite, Imperial,
frotn $2), a flourishing little city of 17,506 inhab., wdth large flour-mills,
lies at the head of navigation on the San Joaquin ('Wahkeen') River. Along
the river-bottom above and below the town are vast 'truck-farms' for the
earliest markets. The most prominent building is the State Insane Asylum,
seen to the right as we enter the station. From Stockton to the Calaveras
Grove or to the Yosemite, see below. — At (57 M.) Lathrop we join the
Southern Pacific line from San Francisco to the S. (comp. p. 529).
Stockton is also the junction of the Merced branch of the Southern
Pacific Railway to (32 M.) Oakdale, whence the Sierra Railway runs to
(41 M ) Jamestown Junction (NevilFs ; Willows), (45 31.) Sonora, and (57 M.)
Tuolumne (p. 549). This latter line afi'ords one of the approaches to the
Yosemite, connecting at (35 M.) Chinese with stage-coaches running via Big
Oak Flat to (35 M.) Crocker's (fare $ 7), where horses may be obtained for
the ride to (15 M.) the valley. Or a carriage may be hired at Jamestown
for the drive to (46-50 M.) the valley (comp. pp. 540, 541). — Stockton is
also the junction of a branch-line to (30 M.) Milton.
From Jamestown Junction (see above) a branch-line leads to (19 M.)
Angels (Angels, from $ 2), whence statces run via (7 M.) Murphy''s (Mitchler's
Hotel), where the night is spent, to (22 M.) the Calaveras Grove of Big Trees.
Near Murphy's is "Mercers Cave, containing many large chambers and
beautiful stalactites. — The 'Calaveras Grove {Big Tree Grove Hotel, $ 2),
now a National Park, is the northernmost of the Californian groves of big
trees, and it is the nearest to San Francisco. It is, however, comparatively
seldom visited, as the Mariposa Grove (p. 549) is conveniently included in
an excursion to the Yosemite. The Sequoia or Wellingtonia gigantea, the 'big
tree' of California, is found only on the W. slope of the Sierra, while the
Redwood or Sequoia sempervireiis, belonging to the same genus, is confined to
the Coast Ranges (see p. 520). The Calaveras Grove (4750 ft. above the sea)
covers an area about 1100 yds. long and 70 yds. wide and contains about
100 trees of large size, besides many smaller ones. The tallest now standing
is the Starr A'm</(366 ft.). The Mother of the Forest (denuded of its bark) is
316 ft. high and has a girth of 61 ft., while the prostrate Father of the Forest
measures 112 ft. in circumference. Half-a-dozen other trees are over 300 ft.
high, and many exceed 260 ft. A house has been built over a stump of
a diameter of 24 ft. The bark is sometimes l-l'/a ft. in thickness. —
About 5 M. to the S. is the Stanislaus or South Grove, also containing many
fine trees, which may be visited on horseback.
From Sacramento to Portland, see R. 79.
The train crosses the river at Sacramento and runs toward the W.,
passing (1710 M.) Davis (55 ft.) and reaching at (1737 M.) Suisun
(10 ft. 5 'Sooisoon') a swampy district overgrown with tule, a kind
of reed. To the S. is Suisun Bay, with Mt. Diablo (p. 519) rising
beyond it. — 1754 M. Benicia, with 2751 inhab., a U.S. Arsenal, and
large wharves, lies on the N. side of the narrow Straits of Cdrquinez
Baedeker's United States. 4th Edit. 30
466 Route 73. OAKLAND.
(1/2 M.), nnlting the bays of Snisun and San Pablo. It is accessible
for ships drawing 23 ft. of water. This was the home of Heenan, the
'Benicia Boy', and the forge-hammer he used is still kept here. —
The train crosses the strait on a huge ferry-boat. — 1755 M. Port
Costa^ on the S. side of the strait, also has large wharves from which
wheat is shipped direct to Europe. — We now follow the S. shore
of San Pablo Bay (views to the right). 1758 M. Vallejo Junction
('Vallayho'), the starting-point of the ferry to Vallejo (see p. 518),
on the opposite shore. To the right lies Mare Island (see p. 517).
Farther on we turn to the S. (left) and see the Bay of San Francisco
on the W. (right), with Mt. Tamalpais rising beyond it (see p. 517).
— 1777 M. Berkeley (Carlton, Cloyne Court, from $ 3), named in
honour of Bishop Berkeley (p. 251), with the Colleges of Letters and
Science of the University of California^ situated among trees on the left.
The 'University of California (President, B. I. Wheeler)^ founded in
186S, has played a very important part in the educational development
of the Pacific Slope and will repay a visit. Its other departments are at
San Francisco (see p. 514) and Mt Hamilton (p 523). The university is
attended by about 32(X) students, three-fourths of whom are at Berkeley and
nearly one-third women. Tuition is free except in some of the professional
departments. Some of the buildings at Berkeley are handsome, and the
pictaresque grounds, 250 acres in extent, command a splendid *View of
the Golden Gate (p. 511) and San Francisco. The experimental grounds
have been of great service to the farmers of California. The very inter-
esting open-air 'Greek Theatre, built in 1903 on the general type of the
theatre at Epidaurus, accommodates 12,00U spectators and is used for uni-
versity meetings, commencement exercises, and concerts. The museums,
the library (llj5,00lt vols.), and the laboratories also deserve attention. —
The State Deaf and Dumb Asylum is also at Berkeley.
1780 M. Oakland (Key Route Inn, Touraine, from $ 31/2; Metro-
pole, $3), the 'Brooklyn' of San Francisco, is a flourishing city of
237,000 inhab., pleasantly situated on theE. shore of the Bay of San
Francisco. It derives its name from the live-oaks, which originally
covered the site of the city. Within the town-limits lies the little
Lake Merritt (boating). Among the buildings may be mentioned the
Free Library, the Post Office, and the Merchants' Exchange. Good
view from top of the Union Savings Bank Building. The value of its
manufactures is ca. $ 50,000,000 ; its magnificent harbour, with 15 M.
of water-front, has large ship-yards and coal-bunkers. Since the San
Francisco earthquake (see p. 511) Oakland has grown rapidly.
Visitors to Oakland are recommended to take the cable-car to Piedmont
Park, in order to enjoy the splendid *View of San Francisco, the Bay, and
the Golden Gate from Inspiration Point (especially good at sunset). — A
pleasant walk may be taken to Redwood Park, passing the home of Joaquin
Miller, the poet.
The San Francisco train skirts the W. side of Oakland and runs
out into San Francisco Bay on a mole IV3M. long, at the end of
which we enter the ferry-boat which carries us across the bay (4 M.,
in 20 min.). In crossing we see Yerba Buena, Alcatraz, and Angel
islands to the right, with the Marin Peninsula beyond them and
the Golden Oate opening to the W. of Alcatraz (comp. Map at p. 5 16).
1787 M. San Francisco, see p. 509.
467
74. From Council Bluffs and Omaha to Portland.
1802 M. Union Pacific Railroad to (857 M.) Granger in 24-28 hrs. ;
Obegon Shokt Link thence to (1398 M.) Huntington in 14 hrs. ; Obegon Rail-
BOAC & Navigation Co. thence to (1802 M.) Portland in 16 hrs. (through-
fare $50; sleeper $ii.50j. Dining-cars are attached to the through- trains
(meals d la carte). For general remarks on the Union Pacific System and its
connections, see pp. 459, 460.
From Council Bluff s and Omaha to (857 M.) Granger, see pp. 460,
461. — Our train now runs towards the N.W., at first on a level
and then gradually descending. Between (940 M.) Cokeville (6200 ft.)
and (955 M.) Pegram we enter Idaho ('Gem of the Mountains').
972 M. Montpelier (5945 ft.), near Bear Lake (left); 1003 M. Soda
Springs (5780 ft. ; Idanha, Williams Ho., $2), a favourite summer-
resort, with numerous powerful springs.
1071 M. Pocatello (4465 ft; Union Pacific, from $21/2; Hank's,
$2-3), a town of 4046 inhah., in the Fort Hall Indian Reservation,
is the junction of lines running S. to (134 M.) Ogden (comp. p. 461)
and (171 M.) Salt Lake City (p. 499), and N. to (263 M.) Butte and
(351 M.) Helena (p. 441). Circular tickets are issued by the Railway
for tours from Pocatello to the Shoshone Falls (see below), the Yellow-
stone Park (p. 447), Butte, Helena (p. 441), etc.
A hranch-line, diverging at (50 M.) IdaJio Falls from the Helena rail-
way, runs to the N". to (158 M. from Pocatello) Yellowstone, near the W.
boundary of the Yellowstone Park. The coaches starting here (comp. p. 449)
run through the Firehole Basin to (3 hrs. •, ca. 20 M.) the Fountain Hotel
(see p. 453), where they join the regular route through the Park, finally
returning from the Norris Basin to Yellowstone.
Beyond Pocatello the train traverses the Oreat Snake River Lava
Fields, overgrown with sage-brush and greasewoodj the snow -clad
Rocky Mts. bound the distant horizon on the right. We cross the
river at (1097 M.) American Falls Station (4340 ft.) by a bridge,
600 ft. long, affording a good view of the *Falls. To the N. rise the
Three Buttes of Lost River and (farther to the W.) the Saw- Tooth
Mts. In front, to the left, appear the snow peaks of the Washoe
Range. — 1130 M. Minidoka is the junction of a branch-line to
(59 M.) Twin Falls City and (76 M.) Buhl. Twin FaUs is the starting
point for a visit to (5 M.) the Shoshone Falls (Shoshone Hotel), in the
deep ravine of the Snake River.
The *Great Shoshone Falls, with a breadth of 950 ft., fall from a
height of 210 ft. and deservedly rank with the waterfalls of the Yosemite
or the Yellowstone. Just above the main cataract is the Bridal Veil
Fall (80 ft.), and 3 M. higher are the Ttein Falls (180 ft.). An area of,
perhaps, 250,000 sq. M. in the states of Washington, Oregon, California,
and Idaho is covered by the so-called 'Columbia Lava', a deposit V2-I M.
in thickness. Through this the Snake River has carved its mighty canyon,
at^ places 4000 ft. deep, and surpassed in grandeur by that of the Colorado
River alone (p. 481). Towards the bottom of the canyon may be seen the
indent cry stalline formations of the mountains covered by the lava-sheet.
The soil of this lava district is peculiarly valuable for wheat-growing, and
at is nearly all used for this purpose. At Twin Falls a huge dam (1980 ft.
long; 99 sluice-gates) has been built for purposes of irrigation About 5 M.
30*
468 Route 74. BOISfi CITY. From Council Bluff
below the Shoshone Falls, a little to the N. of the river, are the pictur-
esque Blue Lakes, where boating and fishing may be enjoyed.
1179 M. Shoshone (4975 ft.), the junction of a branch-line running
N. to (57 M.) EaiUy (5340 ft.) and (70 M.) Ketchum (5820 ft.).
The Hailey Hot Springs (Hotel, 33), I1/2 M. from the station (temp. 150°),
are efficacious in rheumatism, dyspepsia, and other ailments. Near
Ketchum are the Ouyer Hot Springs (hotel).
Near (1214 M.) Ticeska the railway again reaches the iSnafccJBit'gr,
the right hank of which we now skirt more or less closely. 1231 M.
Glenn's Ferry (2565 ft). Level plains give place to small rolling
hills and bluffs, but the scenery continues to be uninteresting.
1316 M. Nampa (2490ft.) is the junction of a branch-line to (20 M.)
Boise City (2885 ft. ; Idanha, Oxford, R. from $ 1), the capital of
Idaho, a busy little mining city, with 5957 inhabitants. — 1325 M.
Caldwell (2370 ft.). Between (1340 M.) Parma and Huntington (see
below) we cross the Snake River thrice, the last crossing bringing us
into Oregon (p. 50b). 1375 M. Weiser (2121 ft.) is the gateway of
the district known as the ''Seven Devils', named, apparently, from the
hills seen to the right. Farther on the Snake River flows through a
picturesque canyon (*View to right from the bridge).
At (1398 M.) Huntington (2110ft. ; Union Pacific Hotel, R. from
$1) we reach the line of the Oregon Railroad ^ Navigation Co. and
change from 'Mountain' to 'Pacific' time (1 hr. slower ; see p. xiv).
We now leave the Snake River and ascend the picturesque *Bumt
River Valley, crossing the stream repeatedly and threading rock-
cuttings and tunnels. Near (1418 M.) Durkee we leave the Burnt River.
Beyond (1445 M.) Baker City (3440ft.) we ascend across the Blue Mts.
and then desi;end rapidly, passing several snow-sheds, into the fertile
and beautiful *Grande Eonde Valley, watered by the river of that
name. 1489 M. Hot Lake (^Sanitarium, from $ 2), with hot sulphur-
springs (temp. 198°Fahr.) and a small lake; 1497 M. La Grande
(2785 ft), the junction of a branch-line to (21 M.) Elgin (to be pro-
longed to Joseph, on Wallowa Lake) ; 1522 M. Meacham (Rail. Restau-
rant); 1529 M. Huron (2910 ft); 1571 M. Pendleton (1070 ft), the
junction of a branch -line to (47 M.) Walla Walla (p. 444) and
(251 M.) Spokane. — 1615 M. Umatilla (300 ft) is the junction of a
branch-line to (93 M.) Grange City and (246 M.) Spokane (p. 443).
Our line is here joined by the direct Portland trains of the N.P.R.R.
(comp. p. 444). Near (1640 M.) Castle Rock (250 ft) we reach the
wide Columbia River (700-800 yds. across), the left bank of which
we now follow all the way to Portland. The object of the barricades
noticed here is to prevent the fine loose sand bordering the river
from accumulating on the tracks, by which trains have been derailed.
1691 M. Grant's (180 ft), with fine basaltic cliffs. 1695 M. Biggs
is the junction of the Columbia Southern Railway to (70 M.) Shaniko.
Farther on we cross the Des Chutes River (view to left). — 1702 M.
Celilo lies at the beginning of the narrow and rapid stretch of the
to Portland. DALLES. 74. Route. 469
river known as the *Dalles of the Columbia, extending to Dalles
(see below).
The name (derived from the sheets of lava well exhibited on op near
the river here) is sometimes confined to the gorge just above Dalles, where
the river is compressed for about 2V2 M. into a channel only 130 ft, wide.
The river-valley here seems to have been obstructed during a recent geolog-
ical period by a lava-flow, through which it has eroded this extraordinary
channel. — As we approach Dalles we have a good view of Mi. Hood (see
below), on the left front.
1714 M. Dalles (105 ft. ; Oerlinger, R. from $1) is a smaU place
of 3542inh.ab., with a considerable trade and some manufactures. It
stands at the head of the finest scenery of the Lower Columbia, which
pierces the Cascade Mts. a little lower down.
Passenger-steamers ply regularly b etween this point and Portland, and
the traveller is advised to perform the rest of the journey by water
(110 M.), as the scenery is seen to the best advantage from the deck of
the steamer. The large 'fish-wheels' are interesting. Comp. p. 508.
The scenery for the remainder of the journey to Portland is very
grand, including beautiful river-reaches, sharp rocks and crags, pleas-
ant green straths, noble trees, romantic waterfalls , and lofty moun-
tains. Beyond (1723 M.) Bowena we see (to the rightj the island of
Memaloose, the ancient burial-place of the Chinook Indians, with a
tall shaft marking the grave of Victor Trevet, a pioneer and friend
of the Indians. Beyond (1730 M.) Hosier (100 ft.) the railway and
river pass through the gorge proper of the Cascade Mts. (p. 444).
— 1737 M. Hood River (Country Club Inn, from $ 3).
From this station stages run in summer (return-fare $ 7.50) to (27 M.)
Cloud Cap Inn (6(X)0 ft. ; $ 3), situated at the foot of the glaciers on the N. side
of Mt. Hood (11,225 ft. ; comp. p. 508) and affording a grand 'View. About
V4 hr. from the inn is the fine *" Eliot Glacier, and excursions may be made
to many other glaciers and cascades. The ascent to the top of (4 M.) Mt.
Hood takes 6-10 hrs. (there and back) and is somewhat trying, though
often made by ladies. The last 900 ft. are facilitated by a rope-line, and
alpenstocks are also desirable. The *View from the top embraces the whole
of the Cascade Range, including; the .'?now-peak8 St. Helens, Adams, Rainier,
and (sometimes) Baker to the N., and Jefferson, the Three Sisters. Diamond
Peak, and Pitt to the S. The Blue Mts., on the E., and the Pacific Ocean,
on the W., are sometimes seen. The view also includes the Coast Range
and the valleys of the Columbia and Willamette. Mt. Shasta, 250 M. to
the S., is said to be visible with a good glass. The ascent may also be
made on the S. side (carr. from Portland, ca. 60 M.).
From Hood River we may also drive to (27 M.) Trout Lake (good fish-
ing), near which are fine ice and lava caves. From the lake a trail leads
to (40 M.) Mt. Adams (12,470 ft.) , the ascent of which (from and to the
timber-line) takes 8-12 hrs. The glaciers of Mt. Adams are very fine and
have been little explored.
From (1750 M.) Wyeth a motor-launch crosses the river to Collins
Hot Springs (hotel^. — At (1757 M.) Cascade Locks the river descends
25 ft. in a series of picturesque rapids.
To avoid this obstruction the U. S. Government has constructed a
canal ('/4 M. long) and two large locks on the S. or Oregon shore, at a
cost of about $ 4,000,000.
Among the numerous small waterfalls on the left of the line
between (1761 M.) Bonneville and (1776 M.) Latourelle, the most
picturesque are the Horse Tail , the Oneonta (at the head of its
470 Route 75. TOPEKA.
narrow gorge), the *Multnomdh (605 ft. high), the Bridal Veil, and
the Latourelle. The towering crags passed ahove or below here in-
clude Castle Rock (rising 1000 ft. on the N. side of the river), Cape
Horn (500 ft. high), the *Pillars of Hercules, forming a nohle gate-
way for the railroad, and Rooster Rock (in the river). Beyond
(1799 M.) East Portland and (1800 M.) Albina the train crosses the
Willamette (p. 506), a broad tributary of the Columbia. A good view
is obtained of Mts. Hood and St. Helens to the S. and Mts. Adams
and Rainier to the N.
1802 M. Portland (35 ft.), see p. 506.
75. From Kansas City to San Francisco.
a. Vih Union Pacific Eailway System.
2014 M. Union Pacific Sistem in 72V2lirs. (fare $50; sleeper $10.50),
carriages changed at Denver or Cheyenne. Dining-cars on the throngh-trains.
Kansas City, see p. 423. The train at first follows the Kansas
River towards the W. (views to the left). — 39 M. Lawrence (765 ft. ;
Eldridge Ho., $2^/2)5 a pleasant little commercial city of (1907)
12,387 inhab., situated on both banks of the Kansas River, is the
seat of the State University (2000 students) and also contains the
Haskell Institute, a government training-school for Indians. We are
here joined by the line from (34 M.) Leavenworth.
Leavenworth (710 ft.; N'ational, $2-3; Imperial, R. from $1), on the
W. bank of the Missouri, is a busy industrial and commercial city with
(1907) 23,857 inhabitants. A colossal bronze statue of Gen. U. S. Grant was
erected here in 1889. To the N. is Fort Leavenworth, an important mili-
tary post.
We now traverse the great prairies of Kansas, an excellent farming
and grazing country. — 67 M. Topeka (820 ft.; Throop, $2-3;
National, $ 2; Rail. Restaurant), the capital of Kansas, a flour-
ishing city of (1907) 42,792 inhab., on both sides of the Kansas
River. The chief buildings include the State Capitol, the Post Office
and Custom House, the State Insane Asylum, the Reform School, the
Free Library (25,000 vols.), Grace Church Cathedral, Washburn Col-
lege, and Bethany College. Topeka has large mills (value of products
in 1900, $9,977,605) and a brisk trade. — 104 M. Wamego (930 ft.).
We cross the Blue River. — 119 M. Manhattan (960 ft.), with the
State Agricultural College. — 135 M. Fort Riley, an army post with
an important military school. The Ogden Monument marks the geo-
graphical centre of the United States (excl. Alaska). — 139 M. Junc-
tion City (1020 ft.), for a line to Clay Center and Belleville, etc. The
Smoky Hill River here flows to the left. — 163 M. Abilene (1095 ft.;
Rail. Restaurant). Large crops of wheat and other grains are raised
here. — 186 M. Salina (p. 427). We now cross the river. 223 M.
Ellsworth (1470 ft.); 289 M. Hays, with Fort Hays (abandoned). At
(303 M.) Ellis (2055 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant) we change to 'Mountain'
time (p. xiv). 377 M. Oakley (2980 ft.); 420 M. Wallace (3285 ft.;
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DENYER. 75. Route 471
Rail. Restaurant). We now begin to pass from an agricnltTural to a
grazing district, where the useful 'bunch-grass' of the "W. affords food,
both summer and winter, to millions of cattle. Beyond (452 M.)
Arapahoe we enter Colorado ('Silver State'). 462 M. Cheyenne Wells
(4260 ft.; Rail. Restaurant). — At (473 M.l First View we obtain the
first view of the Rocky Mis., still about 170 M. distant. Pikes Peak
(p. 491) is conspicuous, nearly due W. — Beyond (487 M.) Kit Carson
(4275 ft.), named after the well-known scout, we follow the Big Sandy
Creek (left) towards the N.W. 535 M. Hugo (5025 ft.), on the middle
fork of the Republican River. At (550 M.) Limon (p. 423) we cross
the Rock Island Railway. 563 M. Cedar Point (5695 ft.) is the highest
point on this part of the line. 618 M. Watkins (5515 ft.).
640m. Denver.— -Beowk Palace Hotel (PI. a; C, 3), E. from 5IV2;
Savoy (PI. 1; C. 3). R. from $ IV2; Shiblet (PI. i; D. 3), from $ 3, R. from
a 1; Meteopole (PI. b; C, 3), from 5 3, R. from Si; Oxford (PI. e; B, 2),
E. 51-2; Adams (PI. k; 0,3), $3, R. fromSlVz; Albany (PI. d; C, 3), from
$272, R. from Si; Wl^•DsoB (Pl.c; 0, 2), S 2, well spoken of; St. James
(PI. e; C, 8), S 2-31/2, R. S 1-1 V2; New Mabkham (PI. f; C, 2, 8), E. from
$ 1. — Restaurants at the Brown Palace, Oxford, and other hotels on the
European plan.
Post Office (PI. C, 8). — Electric Tramways, see p. 472.
Consuls. Brit. Vice-Conaul, Mr. A. Cre'obin ; Ger. Con., Mr. G. Plehn. —
The 'Brownell Index' (quarterly; 25 c.) is a useful guide to Denver.
Denver (5270 ft.), the capital and largest city of Colorado, lies on
the S. bank of the South Platte River, about 15 M. from the E. base
of the Rocky Mts., of which it commands a superb view. Denver,
the 'Queen City of the Plains', was founded in 1858 and is a strik-
ing example of the marvellous growth of western cities, reaching a
total of 35,630 inhab. in 1880 and no fewer than 133,859 in 1900.
Many of Denver's buildings are large, handsome, and substantial, and
the private residences and gardens are often very tasteful. The busi-
ness-streets are paved with asphalt. It owes its prosperity to its posi-
tion in the heart of a rich mining district and as the centre of nu-
merous important railways (comp. pp. 473-475); while in 1900 its
manufactures, including cotton and woollen goods, flour, machinery,
beet-sugar, and carriages, were valued at $41,000,000.
The Union D(?poi (PI. B, 2) lies at the foot of Seventeenth Street,
one of the chief business-thoroughfares, and electric cars start from
here for all parts of the city. Facing us as we leave the station is a
large bronze Arch, bearing the word 'Welcome'. The traveller is re-
commended to ascend 17th St. and 17th Ave. by electric car to the
City Park (PI. F, 2, 3 ; 320 acres) and then to walk across to Colfax
(or loth) Ave. and return by it. On the way out we pass the Equitable
Building (PI. 4, C 3; cor. of Stout St.), the roof of which affords a
superb *yiew.
The Rocky Mts. are seen to the "W. in an unbroken line of about
170 M., extending from beyond Long^s Pealc (p. 473) on the N. to Pike's
Peak (p. 491) on the S. Among the loftiest of the intervening summits
are Gray^s Pec^ (p. 478), TorreyS Peak (p. 473), and Mi. Evans (14,330 ft.).
The bird's-eve view of the city at our feet includes the State Capitol
(p. 472) and the fine residences of Capitol Hill on the E.
472 Route 75. DENVER. From Kansas City
At the comer of 17th and Glenarm Sts. is the Denver Cluh
(PI. C , 3) , and at the corner of Sherman Ave. (r.) are the Univer-
sity Club and the Central Presbyterian Church (PI. D, 3). — In re-
tnming through Colfax (or 15th) Ave. we pass the following huild-
ings: State Capitol (PI. D, 4), an imposing structure erected at
a cost of $2,500,000 (in the basement are a few war relics); the
new Public Library (PI. C, 4), between Acoma and Bannock Sts.;
the U. S. Mint (PI. C, 4), at the corner of Cherokee St. ; and theTT. Side
Court House (PI. B, 4). — The Countt Court House (PI. C, 3)
occupies the block bounded by Court Place and 15th, 16th, and
Tremont Sts. — The Custom House and Post Office (PI. C, 3),
16th St., is another imposing building. — In 14th St. is a handsome
Auditorium (PI. B, C, 3; 12,000 seats), used by the Democratic
Convention in 1908. It can be converted into an opera house.
The other important buildings of the city include the ^Denver
High School (PI. C, 2, 3), Stout St., betw. 19th and 20th Sts.; the
City Hall [PI. B, 3), cor. 14th and Larimer Sts. ; the Mining Ex-
change (PI. B, C, 3) ; the Chamber of Commerce (PI. 3, B 3 ; with the
Mercantile Library")-^ the Baptist College (Montclair); the Tabor
Opera House Block (PI. 5 ; C, 3) ; the Broadway Theatre (PI. 1 ; C, 3) ;
the Denver Athletic Club; Trinity Church (PL C, D, 3), Broadway
and 18th St. ; the Church of Christ, Scientist, 14th & Logan Aves.
(PI. D, 4); the Y. M. C. A. (PI. D, 3), Lincoln and 16th Aves.;
Mystic Shrine Temple , Sherman and 18th Aves. (PI. D, 3) ; the
Westminster University of Colorado; and the Jesuit College of the
Sacred Heart (College Ave., cor. of Homer Ave.). — On Capitol Hill
(beyond PI. F, 3) are the new buildings of St. Mary's Cathedral (R. C.)
and St. John's Cathedral (Episc). The Art Museum, in Montclair (see
below), contains a collection of paintings and other objects of art. The
Museum in the City Park includes an interesting collection of Colorado
animals. In University Park, 8M. to the S.E. of the Union Depot,
is the University of Denver (1300 students). About 4 M. off in nearly
the same direction (4th Ave. car-line) is the Denver Country Club.
A visit should also be paid to one of the great Smelting Works
of Denver, among which may be mentioned the Boston ^ Colorado
(at Argo, p. 473) and the American Smelting §- Refining Co. (Grant
Smelter), both to the N. of the city.
A good idea of Denver's suburban growth is obtained by taking the
electric tramvsray at the end of the 17th Ave. electric line and going to the
E. over Capitol Bill (line residences) and through Montclair to Aurora. —
Visits may also be paid by electric or cable cars to Elitch^s Zoological
Garden (adm. 25 c), Berkeley Lake and Park, and Manhattan Beach. — The
'■Seeing Denver'' Observation Cars (comp. p. 19) start from the Brown Palace
Hotel (fare 50 c. ; 2 hrs."), taking two distinct routes, the 'Scenic Section'
and the 'Residence Quarter'. The ^Seeing the Foothills' Cars cover a distance
of 50 M. (fare $ 1). — Horse Races are held at Overland Park, to the S. of
the city (S. Broadway cars).
Denver was one of the first cities to adopt the interesting principle
of a separate court for juvenile offenders (comp. p. 53), and its Children's
Court (Judge B. B, Lindaey) has been singularly sueceasml.
to San Francisco. BOULDER. 75. Route. 473
Denver is a good centre for numerous excursions, a few of wMch
are enumerated below. Comp. also p. 488 (Colorado Springs, Denver
& Rio Grande R. R.) and p. 427.
Fbom Denver to Golden, Central City, and Silver Plume, 54 M.,
Colorado <k Southern Railtoay in 3V4 hrs. (fare $ 2.55). Observation-cars are
attached to tbe trains. — Beyond (2 M.) Argo (5205 ft.) and (3 M.) Utah
Junction we bave a good retrospect of Denver, with Pike's Peak (p. 491) in
tbe distance. To tbe E. is tbe Platte River, to tbe W. rise tbe Rocky Mts.
Farther on we descend into tbe Clear Creek Valley. At (8 M.) Arvada we
turn to tbe W. — 16 M. Golden (5695 ft.; Avenue, Crawford, from $2), at
tbe base of tbe Table Mts., is a small industrial and mining city, with
2152 inhabitants. We now ascend tbe picturesque "Clear Creek Canyon,wlieTe
the cliffs are sometimes 1000 ft. high. 24 M. Elk Creek. — 29 M. Forks Greek
(6895 ft.; Rail. Restaurant), at the confluence of the N. and S. branches
of Clear Creek, is tbe junction of the line to Central City (see below). —
The Silver Plume train follows tbe South Clear. 37 M. Idaho Springs
(7555 ft. ; Beebe, Hdtel de Paris, $ 2), in tbe midst of a gold and silver mining
district, is frequented for its hot and cold mineral springs (large baths).
An excursion may be made to (13 M.) ''Chicago Lakes (11,5(X) ft.). — We
continue to ascend rapidly.
50 M. Georgetown (8475 ft. ; H6t. de Paris, from $ 21/2), a silver-mining
town with 1418 inhab., is also frequented as a summer-resort on account of
its pure air and beautiful environment. Excursions may be made to (3 M.)
Cfreen Lake (10,400 ft. ; hotel), Clear Lake (3V2 M.), Elk Lake (6 M.), etc. —
Above Georgetown the train threads the Devifs Gate and climbs up tbe
mountains by means of the famous ''Loop, where it bends back on itself
and crosses the track just traversed by a lofty bridge (8770 ft.). A little
higher up it makes two other sweeping curves. — 54 M. Silver Plume
(9175 ft. •, Windsor Hotel, $ IV2-2V2) is now tbe terminus of the railway.
At either Silver Plume or Georgetown horses may be hired for tbe
ascent of *Gray's Peak (14,340 ft. ; 4-5 hrs.), one of tbe loftiest of tbe Rocky
Mts. Tbe *View is superb, including in clear weather Long's Peak (see
below) and Pike's Peak (p. 491). Torrey'sPeak(U,3'55 ft.) &ud Mt. McClelland
(13,425 ft.; mountain railway, with through-cars from Denver; return-
fare $ 41/2) may also be a.-Jcended.
[The line from Forks Creek to Central City (see above; 11 M., in 55 min.)
ascends tbe North Clear Creek, passing numerous quartz mines. Beyond
(7 M.) Black Hawk (8045 ft.) it overcomes the heavy gradient by long
'switchback' curves. — 11 M Central City (8515 ft. ; Teller, $ 2-3), a busy
little mining city, with 3114 inhabitants. An ascent may be made of James
Peak (13,280 ft.; *View), and a pleasant walk or ride may be taken to (6 M.)
Idaho Springs (see above) via Bellevue Hill (view of tbe Front Range).]
From Denver to Boulder and Fort Collins, 74 M., Colorado & Southern
Railway in 21/2-3 hrs. (fare $ 2.70). Beyond (3 M.) Utah Junction (see above)
the train runs to the N. to (30 M.) Boulder (5335 ft. ; Boulderado, from $3;
C Connor, $3; St. Julian., $2), a growing residential city (6150 inhab.)
and tbe site of tbe University of Colorado (1050 students), at the mouth of
*Boulder Canyon, which may be visited by carriage (to tbe Falls, 9 M.,
and back, $5). Other drives may be made from Boulder to tbe pictur-
esque Gregory for Flagstaff) and Sunshine Canyons, tbe former tbe bi)me of
the 'Colorado Chautauqua' (comp. p. 232). Boulder is connected with Denver
by an electric car-line. A branch-line runs from Boulder to (26 M.) Ward
(9450 ft.) and (84 M.) Eldora (8780 ft.), in the tungsten belt, producing more
than half tbe world's supply of that metal, besides gold, silver, and copper.
— Beyond Boulder our line ascends to (44 M.) Longmont (4985 ft.; Im-
perial, $2-3; huge pea-cannery) and (61 M.) Loveland (4970 ft.; Loveland
Ho. , Bushnell, $ 2). From the latter an automobile-stage runs in 3 hrs.
to (24 M.) Estes Park (6810 ft.-, Elkhorn Lodge, $3; Estes Park, $21/2), a
smaller edition of the Great Natural Parks. [Estes Park may also be
reached from Denver by the Burlington & Missouri River R. R. to Longmont
(see above) and (48 M.) Lyons, whence stages run to (20 M. ; 5 hrs.) the
hotels.] Long's Peak {Long's Peak Ho.y $2-3V2; 14,270 ft.) rises on the
474 Route 75. HOLY CROSS MT. From Kansas City
S. side of the park aud may be ascended from the Estes Park Hotel in
4-6 hrs. (guide necessary, fatiguing); the 'View includes a large sectinn of
the Rocky Mts. For the ascents of otber mountains around Estes Park,
see F. H. Chapiii's 'Mountaineering in Colorado". — Beyond Loveland the
train runs on to (74 M.) Fort Collins (4970 ft. ; views), connected by railway
with (25 M.) Greeley (p. 475) and with Colorado Junction.
Fbom Denveb to Leadville . 151 M., Colorado d; Southern Railway in
91/4 hrs. (fare $ 8). — The line runs to the S., crossing the Plaite River. 8 M.
Sheridan Junction (5285 ft ), with Fort Logon. About 12 M. farther on we
reach the "Flatte Canyon (5490 ft. -, Hotels, $ 2-2V/2) and begin to ascend rapidly.
29 M. South Platte (60S5ft.); 32 M. Dome Rock (6200 ft.); 42 M. Pine Grove
(6740 ft.). The gorge contracts. 52 M. Estdbrook (7550 ft.), a summer-resort;
66 M. Grant (8555 ft.), at the W. end of the Platte Canyon. The line curves
nearly back upon itself as we approach the summit at(76M.) ^e»o57ia(9970ft.).
As we begin to descend we have a fine *View of South Park (p. 475). — At
(88 M.) Como (9775 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant) the Leadville line diverges to the
right from that to Gunnison (see below). We now again ascend rapidly,
passing several old placer-workings. 94 M Halfway (10,630 ft.). At (99 M.)
Boreas (11,470 ft.), at the summit of the Breckenridge Pass, we reach the
culminating point of the line, on the Continental watershed of the Rocky
Mts. The descent is abrupt and tortuuus. 110 M. Breckenridge (9525 ft.;
Denver Hotel, $ 3), on the Blue River. To the W. and S. W. rise Mts. Fletcher.,
Quandary., Buckskin, and other peaks; to the N., Gray's Peak, Torrey''s Peak,
and Mt. Powell. Gold-mining is actively carried on all along this part of
the route. — Beyond Breckenridge we descend to the N., along the Blue
River. 116 M. Dickey (8980 ft.), junction for (7 M.) Keystone. Farther on
we pass through the Ten Mile Canyon. 185 M. Rohinson (10,820 ft.), in a
rich mining district. To the left towers Mt. Fletcher (14,265 ft.). To the
N.W. rises the famous Mt. of the Holy Cross (14,170 ft.), so called from
the cruciform appearance presented by two snow -filled ravines which
cross each other at right angles (best seen from a point on the road to
the W. of Robinson). — At (137 M.) Climax (11.330 ft.) we reach_the top
of Fremont's Pass and begin to descend. 145 M. Bird's Eye (10,635 ft."). —
151 M. Leadville (10,185 ftO, see p. 498. Leadville is also reached from
Denver via the D. & R. G. and Col. Midland R. R. (comp. pp. 495, 498).
From Denver to Gunnison and Baldwin, 219 M., Colorado and SoutheT^
Railway in 5 hrs. (fare to Gunnison $ 8.95, to Baldwin $ 9.30). — From
Denver to (88 M.) Como, see above. Our line continues to run towards
the S."W., through South Park, surrounding or flanking the rocky spurs
sent out by the loftier mountains. 105 M. Garos (9170 ft.) is the junction
of a branch-line to (10 M.) Fairplay (98S5 ft.) and (16 M.) Alma (10,230 ft.),
both near the centre of South Park (p. 475). — The valley widens. 114 M.
Platte River (8935 ft.). From (120 M.) Bath or Hill Top (9460 ft.) we obtain
a view of the Sawatch or Saguache Range, separating the Gunnison and
San Juan country from the valley of the Arkansas and culminating in
Blanca Peak (14,390 ft.), the highest of the Rockies. "We descend rapidly.
127 M. McGees (8650 ft.). — 133 M. Schwanders (7815 ft.) is the junction of
a line to (4 M.) Buena Vista (7945 ft.). About 8-10 M. to the "W. of Buena
Vista are the three 'Collegiate' peaks of the Saguache Range: Mts. Tale
(14,185 ft.), Princeton (14.190 ft.), and Harvard (14,375 ft.). Kear their bases
are Cottonwood Hot Springs (6 M. from Buena Vista: stage). — Beyond
Schwanders we cross the Denver <fe Rio Grande R. R. (R. 77 a). 142 M. Mt.
Princeton Hot Springs (8170 ft.; Hotel, well spoken of; mountain to the
right); 153 M. St. Elmo (10,010 ft.). About 6 M. beyond (156 M) Romley
(11,005 ft.) we reach the *Alpine Tunnel (11,600 ft.), 590 yds. long, one
of the highest pieces of railway in the world. "We cross the Continental
Divide in the middle of the tunnel and begin to descend towards the
Pacific. The "View on emerging from the tunnel includes the San Juan
Mts. (150 M. to the S."V^^.), the Uncompahgre Range (p. 496), the valley of
the Gunnison, the Elk Mts. (right), and (in the foreground) Mt. Gothic and
Crested Butte. The line runs along a narrow ledge, with perpendicular,
rocky walls on the one side and the^deep valley on the other. The descept
to San Francisco. SOUTH PARK. 75. Route. 475
is very abrupt. 175 M. Pitkin (9180 ft.); 190 M. Parlin's (7910 ft.). — At
(202 M.) Gunnison (7660 ft.) our line meets the Denver and Rio Grande
Railroad (see p. 496). — 219 M. Baldwin.
pSouthPark (p. 474), separated from Middle Park (see below) by a range
of lofty mountains, has a mean elevation of about 9000 ft. and an area
of 2000 sq. M. Its climate is milder than that of the Parks to the N.,
and the railways make it more accessible. Numerous excursions may
be made from Fairplay (p. 474), one of the finest of which is the ascent
of *Mt. Lincoln (14,295 ft.) , easily accomplished (carriages available
nearly to the top). The mountain-view is very grand and extensive. The
beautiful •jTtrtn ZiaAe* (9330 ft.), at the E. base of the Saguache Range, are
most easily reached from Granite (p. 495).]
One of the finest excursions that can be made from Denver is that
arranged by the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad under the name of Around
THE CiECLE, OE 1000 M. THROUGH THE RocKY Mts. (fare $23; tickets
available for 60 days). On this round we cross and recross the Great
Divide, thread four wonderful canyons, surmount four mountain-passes (one
by coach), reach a height of 11,000 ft., and pass through some of the grandest
scenery in America. The round may be accomplished in 4 days, with
halts for the night at Durango, Silverton, and Ouray; but it is better to
spend a much longer time on it and make various side-trips. It may be
made in either direction. — The different sections of this circular tour
are described elsewhere. From Denver to Colorado Springs.^ Pueblo, and
(170 M.) Guchara Junction, see R. 77 a; from Cuchara Junction to Durango,
Silverton, and (345 M.) Red Mountain, see pp. 492-494; from Red Mountain
to (8 M.) Ouray (stage), see p. 494; from Ouray to (35 M.) Montrose and back
to (352 M.) Denver, see pp. 496-488. [Those who prefer to omit the stage-
ride may go on by railway from Durango to Dolores, Ophir Loop, Dallas Divide,
and Ridgioay, where they rejoin the 'Circle' as above described (comp. p. 493.)]
From Denver to McCoy, 1o7 M., Denver, K W., & Pacific Railway ('Moffat
Road') in 9 hrs. (return-fare S 91/2). This line, diverging at (3 M.) Utah
Junction fp. 473) from that to Fort Collins, will soon be opened to Steam-
boat Springs (Onyx Hotel, $ 21/2), 47 M. beyond McCoy, whence it will be
advanced to Salt Lake City (p. 499). — Beyond (47 M.) Tolland (Toll Inn,
$ 2V2)) iJi Boulder Park, the line ascends in windings to (65 M.) Corona
(11,660 ft.), where it crosses the Rocky Mta. at the highest point attained
by any standard-gauge railway. The "Scenery is of the grandest description,
and the tourist is recommended to make at least the one-day round trip
to (77 M.) Arrow (9585 ft. ; Lininger Ho., $ 2; return-fare $ 5). The railwao
traverses Middle Park, the second of the great Natural Parks of Colorady
mentioned at pp. 460, 461. Middle Park, the only one on theW. side of the
'Continental Divide", has a mean elevation of about 7500 ft. and an area of
3000 sq. M. It is a noted resort for sportsmen in search of big game.
109 M. ffot Sulphur Springs (7650 ft.; Grand, $2-3; Middle Park, $2), in
Middle Park, with water efficacious in rheumatism, neuralgia, and cutaneous
affections. Near flSOM.) Gore Canyon the scenery is, perhaps, at its best. —
157 M. McCoy (Hotel, from $ I1/2).
From Denver to La Junta, 183 M., Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fi R. R.
in 6-7 hrs. (fare $ 6.35). Through-carriages run by this route to Kansas
City, to Chicago, and to Californian and Mexican points. — From Denver to
(119 M.) Pueblo this line runs parallel with the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad
(see R. 77a), passes the same stations, and enjoys the same scenery. —
Beyond Pueblo it strikes off towards the S.E. — 188 M, La Junta, see p. 477.
At Denver tlie San Francisco line turns sharply to tlie right and
runs to the N., along the S. Platte River and parallel with the Rocky
Mts., 30-40 M. to the W. (fine views to the left). — From (658 M.)
Brighton (4970 ft.) a branch -line runs to Boulder (p. 473). —
686 M. La Salle (4665 ft.) , the junction of a line to Julesburg
(p. 460); 691 M. Greeley (4635 ft.; Camfleld Hotel, $3-4), the
source of the 'Greeley potato', a thriving town of 3023 inhab., on the
476 Route 75. OKLAHOMA. From Kansas City
Cache la Poudre River (line to Fort Collins, see p. 474). Considerable
qnantities of 'alfalfa' or 'lucerne' (a kind of clover) and other crops
are grown all along this line on land which is perfectly barren without
irrigation.
746 M. Cheyenne (6050 ft.), and thence to —
2014 M. San Francisco, see pp. 460-466.
b. ViS, Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Eailway.
2116 M. Railway in 63 hrs. (fare $50, second class $ 40-, sleeper $ 11.50,
tourist-car $5.75). Througli-carriages run from CMcago to San Francisco
by this route (2576 M.) in 75 lirs. (fare $ 62.50, second class $ 52.50 ; sleeper
$ 14, tourist-car S 7). A large part of the district traversed is semi-arid,
hut some points of considerable interest are passed (see pp. 477, 478), while
the wonderful Grand Canyon of the Colorado is most easily reached from
Williams (p. 4S0).
Kansas City, see p. 423. The line runs to the W. , along the
S. side of the Kansas River, and ascends steadily. At (14 M.) Hol-
liday (760 ft.) we are joined by the branch horn Leavenworth (p. 470).
40 M. Lawrence (p. 470). At (67 M.) Topeka (885 ft. ; p. 470) we
are joined by the branch from Atchison (p. 423) and bend to the S.
We now pass through a prosperous district with many small towns.
93 M. Burlingame (1040 ft), with its country-club •, 101 M. Osage
City; 128 M. Emporia; 148 M. Strong City; 173 M. Florence; 185 M.
Peabody (1350 ft). — 201 M. Newton (1440 ft ; Arcade Hotel, from
$ 3), the junction of a line running S. to Galveston, is the centre of
the Mennonite settlements, made up of over 100,000 industrious
German and Kussian Quakers, who have immigrated since 1874.
From ^Newton to GrAL^^a;sTON , 750 ]il., A. T. & S. F. Railway in 30 hrs.
— Among the most important intermediate stations are (27 M.) Wichita
(24,671 inhab.; Carey Hotel, $13/4-2); 43 M. Mulvane: 65 M. Winfield (8094
inhab. in 1907; St. James, $2), near the huge Wichita Game Presei-ve
(buffalo, etc.); 79 M. Arkansas City (1065 ft.; Rail. Restaurant), a flourishing
place with (190T) 8116 inhabitants. We now cross the Arkaiisas River and
enter Oklahoma (the 'Boomers' Paradise'), created a state (including Indian
Territory) in 1907. It ha?* an area of 69,830 sq. M. and a population
(1907) of 1,414,217 (an increase of 78 per cent over 1901'), including about
50,000 Indians. The rush across the border as soon as the new territory
was opened has become historical, tent towns with thousands of inhabitants
springing up in a single day. Oklahoma is preeminently an agricultural
and cattle-breeding district, and the development of agriculture since 1890
has been extraordinary. The produce includes maize, wheat, cofton, and
fruit. Its coal-fields are also very extensive and valuable. — 92 M. A^ewkirk.
Near (104 JI.) Fonca City (hotel) is the White Eagle Agency of the Ponoa
Indians. 139 M. Ferry. — 168 M. Guthrie (930 ft. ; lone, $ 2y2-4 : Elks, $ 2-2V2),
the capital of Oklahoma, is a busy little place with 21,000 inhabitants.
— 199 M Oklahoma (Lee, Threadgill, from S2V2), founded in 1889, had
45.00^^ inhab. in lvl07. A side-trip may be made hence to Shawnee., with its
Kickapoo bark-lodges. At (232 M.) Furcell we cross the Canadian River and
enter the oli. Indian Territory, a tract of about 31,000 sq.M., set apart for
the Indian tribes to the E. of the Mississippi but now included in the State
of Oklahoma (see above and comp. also p. 424). The chief civilized tribes
located here are the Cherokees, Chickasaws, Seminoles, Creeks, and Choctaws,
and these 'Five Nations' have long enjoyed a considerable measure of
Home Rule. Under the new State constitution these Indians will continue
more or less in the position of wards of the National Government for the
to San Francisco. TRINIDAD. 75. Route. 477
next 25 years, after which they will assume the status of ordinary citizens.
An inalienable homestead of 160 acres has been reserved for each Indian.
Farming is the chief occupation, but as a rule the Indians rent their lands
to white cultivators. — We now traverse the lands of the Chickasaw Nation,
crossing the Washita two or three times. 254 M. PauVs Valley; 266 M.
Ardmore (p. 424). Beyond (325 M.) Thackerville we cross the Red River and
enter Texas (p. 552). 339 M. Gainesville; 405 M. Fort Worth (see p. 637)5
432 M. Cleburne (Rail. Restaurant), the junction of a line to Dallas(^. 637),
From (49t) M.) McGregor a line runs to (20 M.) Waco ('Geyser City';
McClelland Ho.), wiih 20,686 inhab., warm artesian wells, and a large
natatorium. 531 M. Temple Junction (Rail. Restaurant); 576 M. Milano, the
junction of a line to Austin (p. 594): 608 M. Somerville; 684 M. Rosenberg
Junction; 721 M. Alvin. — 750 M. Galveston, see p. 594.
211 M. Halstead (1385 ft.); 236 M. Hutchinson (1525 ft), with
a trade in salt. We now follow the general course of the Arkansas
River (left), passing through a good agricultural and cattle-raising
district. 27QM. Ellinwood (ITSO ft); B33M. Kinsley (2iQ0 ft). At
(369 M.) Dodge City (2475 ft; 3742 inhab. in 1907; comp. p. 487)
we change from 'Central' to 'Mountain time (1 hr. slower; comp,
p.xiv). 419 M. Garden City (2825 ft,). — Beyond (485 M.) Coolidge
(3360 ft) we enter Colorado (p, 471), 496 M. Amity, with a flourish-
ing Salvation Army Colony, owning 12,000 acres of fertile prairie
land; 519 M. Lamar (3600 ft). Farther on the Rocky Mts. begin
to come into sight in front, to the right, — 571 M, La Junta (pron,
'La Hoonta'; 4060 ft), a place of 2513 inhab,, is the junction of
the line from Denver described at p, 475. Pike's Peak (p. 491) is seen
to the right. Our line runs towards the S.W, — 653 M. Trinidad
(5995 ft,; *Cardenas, at the station, $3-4; CoZwTn&mn, from $ 3,
R. from $ 1), the industrial and commercial centre of S.E. Colorado,
is a thriving city of 5345 inhab,, in which the characteristics of old
Mexico and young America are inextricably mixed (comp, p. 478).
At (662 M.) Morley (6745 ft.) we begin to ascend the Raton Mts.^
which form a conspicuous feature in the views from Trinidad.
The gradient is steep. Fine views, especially of the Spanish Peaks
(p. 492; right). At the top of the pass (7620 ft) we pass through
a long tunnel and enter New Mexico (p. 493), The descent is also
rapid. 676 M. Raton (6620 ft,). The line runs through the central
valley of New Mexico, about 20 M, wide, which is traversed by
the Rio Grande del Norte and several other streams, and flanked by
mountains 6000-10,000 ft, high. Agriculture is carried on in the
side- valleys and plains by careful irrigation, but the greater part
of the Territory is better adapted for grazing. — 742 M. Wagon
Mound. — From (787 M.) Las Vegas (6380 ft ; Castaneda, $ 31/2-5),
an important wool-market with 3552 inhab,, on a fork of the Pecos
River, an electric railway runs to (6 M,) Las Vegas Hot Springs.
Las Vegas Hot Springs (6770 ft, ; "Montezuma Hotel, $31/2-6), about 40 in
number, lie on the S.E. slope of the Santa Fe range of the Rocky Mts. and
vary in temperature from 75° to 140° Fahr. The water resembles that of
the Arkansas Hot Springs (p. 590) and has similar results. It is used both
for bathing and drinking. Mud-baths are also used ($ 3, including mas-
sage). Many pleasant excursions can be made in the vicinity. The mean
annual temperature is 59° Fahr. (summer 73°).
478 Route 75. SANTA Ffi. From Kansas City
Near (832 M.) Rowe lies (r.) the curious old Pecos Church, a relic
of a Franciscan mission, dating from early in the 17th cent, and
abandoned in 1840. Farther on we cross another ridge by the Glorieta
Pass (7430 ft.) and descend to (851 M.) Lamy Junction (6460 ft.;
hotel), where the line to (18M.) Santa Ft diverges to the right.
[Santa Fe (7040 ft.; Palace Hotel, $ 21/2-3; Clare), the capital
of New Mexico, is, next to St. Augustine (p. 615), the most ancient
town in the United States, having been founded by the Spaniards
in 1605, while the site was occupied long before this by a village of
the Pueblo Indians (p. Ixii). It is in many ways a most quaint and
interesting place, with its narrow streets, adobe houses, and curious
mingling of American , Mexican , and Indian types. It lies in the
centre of an important mining district and carries on a considerable
trade. Pop. (^1900) 5603. The focus of interest is the Pla%a, or
public square, with a Soldiers" Monument. On one side extends the
Governor s Palace, a long low structure of adobe, which has been
the abode of the Spanish, Mexican, and American governors for
300 years. It harbours the Museum of the New Mexico Historical
Society, containing old Spanish paintings, historical relics, and Indian
curiosities. The Cathedral of San Francisco, a large stone building
with two towers, incorporates parts of the old cathedral, dating
from 1622. The Church of San Miguel, originaUy built in 1622,
was destroyed by Indians in 1680 and restored in 1710. Other points
of interest are the new (now abandoned) and the old Fort Marc?/, San
Miguel College, and the Bamona Industrial School for Indian Child-
ren. Among the chief modern structures are the State Capitol and
the Federal Building. A visit should be paid to the makers of Mexi-
can silver liligree-work, whose shops are mainly in or near the Plaza.
Gen. Lew Wallace (1827-1905) wrote 'Ben-Hur' in the Palace,
while Governor of New Mexico (1879-82). — About 9 M. to theN.W.
of Santa Fe' is the interesting pueblo of the Tesuque Indians, who
visit the city daily, bringing firewood on their 'burros' (donkeys).
From Santa Fe to Espanola and Antonito, see p. 492.]
Near (882 M.) Thornton (5245 ft.), on the Rio Grande, are the
pueblos of Santo Domingo (grand festival on Aug. 4th) and San
Felipe. We now follow the bank of the large and rapid Rio Grande.
919 M. Albuquerque (4930 ft.; *Alvarado, $3-5, connected with
the station by an arcade), with 6238 inhab. and a brisk trade in wool
and hides, is the connecting-point with the Santa Fe line to El Paso
and Mexico, though the actual point of divergence is 13 M. farther
on (see p. 479). The Railway Station and the Alvarado Hotel are buUt
in the picturesque Spanish Mission style; the latter contains an
interesting collection of the 'Arts and Crafts' of the Moki. Zufii,
Navajo, Apache, and Pima Indians.
to San Francisco. GALLUP. 75. Route. 479
From Albdquerqie to El Paso, 253 M., railway in 9-10 hrs. Tiirough-
aleepers run via this route from Eansaa City to El Paso , connecting with
the Mexican Central Railway (comp. p. 5yl). — We diverge from the line
to California at (13 M.) Jsleia Junction (see below) and run towards the S.
30 M. Belen (4795 ft.). The mezquite ( Prosopis juliflora) now begins to ap-
pear. 75 M Socorro; 86 M. San Antonio ; 103 M. >Sa« i/ardai (*E,ail. Restau-
rant) ; 141 M. Engle. 176 M. Rincon (4050 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant) is the junction of
alineto(53M.)i>e77Mn5'Cp.552). 209 M. Las Crwces. — 253 M. El Paso, seep.591.
Shortly after leaving Albuquerque we begin to see evidence of an
ancient black lava flow, which continues for many miles, but does not
equal the larger flow beyond McCarty's (see below). The main route
continues due W., while at (932 M.) Isleta (see above), a pueblo with
600 Indians, the line to El Paso diverges to the S. We leave the Rio
Grande, and run through a semi-arid and monotonous country, which,
however, makes some response to Irrigation. The curious-looking
Yucca is now seen; this and the Artemisia are often the only vege-
tation in the desert, though the foothills are dotted with groves of
pifion and cedar. At (985 M.) Laguna (5765 ft.) the railway runs
through an Indian pueblo, the houses of which are built in terraces
two and three stories high. This is the most modern of the pueblos,
its foundation dating from 1699.
Visitors to this pueblo find accommodation in the house of one or
other of the four or five white families here. The Indians, some of whom
have been educated at Carlisle (p. 189) and speak good English, welcome
visitors and ofl'er hand-made potter\ for sale. Their houses are of stone,
plastered with adobe, and some of them are entered, with the aid of lad-
ders, through the roofs. The Roman Catholic adobe church is nearly two
centuries old. — About IB M. to the S.W. of Laguna lies Acoma^ the most
interesting of all the pueblo^, discovered by Coronado in 1540. In situation
it is as striking as in structure, being 'nobly perched on the plateau of
a huge rock elevation (carr. there and back $ 5; for 3 or more pers. $2
each^ blankets and light camp-outfit desirable).
Between Laguna and Acoma, 3 M. to the E. of the latter, rising pre-
cipitously 430 ft. above the valley, is the so-called Mesa Encantadci, or 'En-
chanted Table-land" (reached by ladders and ropes). This was scaled by
F. W Hodge in 1897 and found to bear evidence of former aboriginal occu-
pancy, thus verit\ing a tradition ot the Acomas that their ancestors lived
on the heig,ht, but were forced to abandon their village after a storm had
destroyed the only trail , and caused those left on the summit to perish.
Comp. papers by Oscar C. S. Carter in the 'Journal of the Franklin Insti-
tute' (June & Dec, 19U6).
Beyond Laguna Mt. Taylor or San Mateo (11,388 ft), the loftiest
mountain in New Mexico, is seen to the N. (right). Between (1002 M.)
McCartys and (1015 M.) Grant's the railway follows a stupendous
flow of black lava (comp. above). About 30 M. farther on we pass
the Continental Divide (7248 ft.), but there is nothing in the sur-
roundings to suggest that we have reached so high an elevation or
are passing from the Atlantic to the Pacific slope. — 1065 M. Wingate
(6715 ft.), 3 M. from Fort Wingate. — 1077 M. Gallup (64b0 ft.;
Rail. Restaurant), with large coal-mines, is the supply station for
Fort Defiance (stage $2^/2) and the Agency of the great Navajo
('Nahvaho') Indian Reservation, which lies at some distance to the
N. of the line. Indians may be seen at the railway-stations, selling
fine Navajo blankets, silver-work, and other home-made articles.
480 Route 75. WILLIAMS. From Kansas City
Gallup is also the usual starting-point for a visit to the famous pueblo of
Zuni, which lies about 40 M. to the S. (carr. there and back $ 10, 2-4 pers. $ 15),
and for that across the -Painted Desert' to (TO M.) Ghico, with the largest
group of prehistoric stone houses in the bouth-West.
Beyond (1093 M.) Manuelito (6230 ft.) we enter the Territory of
Arizona ('Sunset Land'). — 1131 M. Navajo Springs. 1151 M.
Adamana (Forest Hotel, $ 21/2); 1 172 M. Holbrook (5060 ft. ; Bruris-
uick, $"2V2)-
From Adamana a visit may be paid to the extraordinary Petrified or
Chalcedony Forests of Arizona, the most accessible ot which lies about
6 M. to the S. (carr. there and back in 6-7 lirs. ; fare $4. two or more
pers. $21/2 each). These forests are also visired from Holbrook. The trip
to the largest ot them, known as the Third Forest (about 15 M. to the S.),
requires a day. and necessitares a stop-over at Holbrook of two nights
(carr. there and back $272 each). The petrified trees, 3-10 ft. in diameter
and 80-100 ft. in length, date from the Mesozoic era, and are either em-
bedded in the sandstone and shale of the mesas or lie broken on the
plateau whence the softer rocks have disappeared by erosion. The longest,
llO ft. in length, forms a natural bridge of a^ate over a ravine between
two mesas. Comp. paper by Oscar C. S. Carter in the 'Journal of the
Franklin Institute'' (April, 1904). — The seven Mold or Hopi Villages^ the
ancient 'Province of Tusayan', are also visited from Holbrook; the famous
'Snake Dances' occur in the latter half of August.
1205 M. Winslow (4855 ft. 5 Rail. Restaurant). Farther on we
Coss a bridge, 540 ft. long and 222 ft. high, spanning the (1230 M.)
Gxanyon Diablo.
1263 M. Flagstaff (6935 ft.; Weatherford, $21/2-3) was the
starting-point of the old stage-route to (70 M.) the Grand Canyon of
the Colorado (see p. 481).
To the N. rise the San Francisco flits. (12,794 ft.), extinct volcanoes,
surrounded by a district of cinder cones and lava beds, like the Phlegrsean
Fields of Italy. The one known as Humphrey's Peak, may be ascended
with little trouble (7 M. by carriage and 3 M in the saddle). It aft'ords
an extensive -'View of the N. wall of the Canyon, tlje Kavajo and Buckskin
Mts., the 'Painted i'esert', and the Moki Buttes and villages. — The Per-
cival Li well Observatory is visible from the train, to the N.W. of the town,
andjvisitors are made welcome.
l)riving excursions from Flagstaff may be made to the Cliff Dwellings in
Walmit Canyon {<iM.. to tbeS.); to Coconino Butte, with cave- dwellings (9 M.
to the N.E.)-, and to the Natural Bridge (275ft. high; 60 M. to the S.).
1297 M. Williams (6725 ft.; Grand Canyon Hotel, $21/2), a
cattle- shipping point with about 1000 inhab., is the station for the
branch-line to the Grand Canyon (see below). The traveller who
stops over night may ascend Bill Williams Mt. (9265 ft. ; 5 hrs.,
easy bridle-path). The alleged grave of the famous scout, who gave
his name to the mountain and the town, is pointed out on the top,
but he is really buried 50 M. to the S., where he was killed by In-
dians. To the N.W. rises Mt. Floyd.
Fkom Williams to Gband Canton Station, 681/2 M., railway in 3 hrs.
(return-fare $6.50; sleeper $2). There are two trains each way daily,
leaving Williams, according to present time-tables, at 5.50 a.m. and 1.80 p.m.,
and Grand Canyon at 830 a.m. and 9 p.m. These connect with the trans-
continental trains E. and W., and usually wait for them when they are
^''i"H
to San Francisco. GRAND CANYON. 75. Route. 481
belated. A Pullman sleeper is attached to the west -bound 'California
Limited' at Winslow and runs direct to the Canyon. The train leaving the
Canyon at 8.30 a.m. has a through-sleeper for Los Angeles ; and the train
leaving at 9 p.m. has a sleeper which is transferred to the east-bound
train^at Williams.
Perhaps the most favourable season for this trip is in the early spring
(April, May, or even .Tune), before the hot season f and the rains of July
and August arrive. In the winter months, preferably Dec. and Jan., while
the keen, thin, cold air makes the driving and horseback excursions less
agreeable, the effects given by cloud and snow under the brilliant skies are
varied and striking. If possible, the stay here should be made under a
full moon, and should be prolonged for a week at least.
From Williams the Canyon train runs to the N. over level tracts
of sage-hrush desert, stony land with dwarf junipers and pines,
sparse hunch -grass, and, finally, pasturage. From (52 M.) Apex
(6600 ft.) we descend via (58 M.) Coconino (comp. p. 480) to
(6372 M.) Grand Canyon Station. Close by is the *El Tovar Hotel
(from $4), named from a companion of Coronado and standing
almost on the edge of the canyon. Simple but comfortable accom-
modation may also be obtained at the Bright Angel Camp, ca. 200 yds.
farther off (R. from 75 c; meals a la carte). Near the El Tovar is a
typical Hopi house , occupied by a few Hopi Indians , who sell
blankets, pottery, and silver work. Beyond are two Navajo 'Hogans'.
The **Grand Canyon of the Colorado, one of the most stupen-
dous natural wonders of the world, is 3000-5000 ft. deep and 217 M.
long, following the river. Its ordinary width is about 10 M. ; at El
Tovar it measures 13 M. from the N. to the S. rim. The river, 300 ft.
wide at its broadest, is 2400 ft. above the sea- level. The walls
of the canyon, which are terraced and carved into a myriad of
pinnacles and towers, are tinted with various brilliant colours. The
canyon was first made specifically known to the world by Major Powell,
late Chief of the U. S. Geological Survey, who in 1869 descended
it by boat from the Green River (p. 497) to the Virgin River, a distance
of 1000 M. He believes that the river was running here before the
mountains were formed, and that the canyon was created by the
erosion of the water acting simultaneously with the slow upheaval
of the rocks. The geological student has unfolded to him, in the sides
of the canyon, all the strata from the carboniferous formations down
to the Archaean granite (comp. diagram on map).
Comp. Major J. W. PowelVs 'Canyons of the Colorado' (1893), Capt.
DuttoTi's 'Tertiary History of the Grand Canon Districf (Washington, 1882),
Fred. S. DellenbaugK' s 'Romance of the Colorado River' (1903), and Geo.
Wharton James s 'In and Around the Grand Canon'.
There are two main trails by which the traveller can reach the
bottom of the canyon, without danger though not without fatigue,
either on foot or in the saddle. Horses and guides are supplied at
the hotels. — 1. The Bright Angel Trail, 7 M. down from rim to
river, requires 3 hrs. for the descent and 3Y2 t'Js. for the return,
+ The heat on the rim of the Canyon is seldom oppressive, though,
of course, its depths become very warm.
Bajedekek's United States. 4th Edit. 31
482 Route 75. GRAND CANYON. From Kansas City
"With a stop for rest and luncheon (charge $4 each, including lunch-
eon, horse, and guide). Ahout halfway down is Indian Gardens Camp
($ 3 ; advisable to telephone). — 2. The Grand View Trail is reached
by stage from Grand Canyon Station, leaving daily at 9 a.m., or by pri-
vate conveyance from El Tovar Hotel (return-fare, $ 3) to the (13 M.
to the E.) * Grand View Hotel, a favourite summer stopping-place
($ 3-4 a day, $ 18-25 weekly). This was the terminus of the old
stage-line from Flagstaff (p. 480). The altitude at this point (7496 ft.)
permits vast outlooks up and down the river and canyon, and beyond
its E. boundary wall. The trail, which begins about 1 M. to the N.W.
of the hotel, descends to Horseshoe Mesa, halfway down the canyon,
with a copper-mine (in operation), some limestone caves, and cot-
tages where the night may be spent (rates the same as at Grand
View Hotel). From Horseshoe Mesa three trails lead to the bottom
of the canyon, two to Granite Gorge; but to reach the river by either
of the latter it is necessary at present to descend the wall of the
Granite Gorge on foot. This is difficult and seldom done, since the
*View from the lower plateau overhanging the gorge is so satis-
factory. The third trail runs upstream along the floor of the canyon
and at the river connects with the Hance Trail (see below).
The Hance or Red Canyon Trail begins about 4 M. to the E. of the
hotel (about 7 M. from rim to river). This trail does not touch the Granite
Gorge, but reaches the river at a point a little above and gives access to
a section of the canyon geologically different from the parts reached by
other trails. An interesting trip of two or three days may be made by
de'^cending over the Grand View Trail (see above) and returning by the
Hance Trail. Food is provided by the hotel at the daily rate, in addition
to which each member of the party pays his proportionate share for the
guide and pack animals and S 3 for his mount.
The Tanner Trail, which leaves the rim about 15 M. to the E. of Grand
View, is seldom nsed, but gives access to the bottom of the canyon near
the union of the Marble and the Little Colorado Canyons.
The following points along the rim of the canyon (superb views)
are best visited from the Grand Yiew Hotel: Grand View Point
(7406 ft. ; IV2M. to the N.); Moran's Point (5M. to theN.E.), named
from the artist, reached by carriage, but better visited by saddle-
horse via the Rim Trail, which leads for 2 M. along the edge of the
canyon; Zuni (Bissell) Point (7284 ft.; 7 M. to the N.E.); Pinal
(HollenbecTc) Point (iOM. to theN.E.); lApan (Lincoln) Point [12M.
to the N.E.) ; ^-ni Navajo Point (or Desert View; 18 M. to theN.E.),
at the E. edge of the Coconino Plateau.
Other excursions from the Grand View Hotel may be naade to the
*" Prehistoric Ruins (6-12 M ); Crater Mi. (30 M.); the Car.yon of the Little
Colorado (30 M. to the 2s. E.); the "Painted Desert and ^Navajo Reservation.
The last excursion requires 5-7 days.
Some grand views are obtained by walking or driving from the
El Tovar Hotel to CNeilVs ( Yavapai) Point, 21/2 M. to the E., and
to Rowe's {Hopi) Point, 3 M. to the W. The latter may be included,
by a short digression, in the drive to (21 M.) Havasupai Point and
(241/2 M.) Bass's Camp (6652 ft.), another point commanding a superb
view of the canyon. Bass's Trail (ca. 7 M. in length), which begins
to 8m Francisco. ASH FORK. 75. Route. 483
here, is of great interest to tlie geologist, though comparatively little
used. It descends to the Colorado River, which is 215 ft. wide at
this point. Crossing hy boat, we may mount the N. bank to Button's
Point, on Powell's Plateau, and to Point Sublime (7500 ft,). The
view from these points 1000 ft. higher than the S. wall, is well worth
this climb. At least four days are required for this trip from Bass's
Camp and back.
Cataract Canyon and its Indian Village may be visited from
Bass's Camp (30 M.), or direct from El Tovar Hotel (47 M.) by
carriage to the edge of the canyon, where saddle-animals have to be
taken for the last 12 M. — The Boucher Trail, which begins about
10 M. to the W. of El Tovar, is seldom used to the river, but Drip-
ping Springs, 2 M. from the rim, and a point near by (*View) are
frequently visited.
Before reaching (1320 M.) Ash Fork (5130 ft.; Hotel Escalante,
from $ 4, well spoken of) we thread the rocky Johnson's Canyon.
Fbom Ash Fork to Ph(enix, 194 M., Santa Fi, Frescott, and Fhoenix Rail-
way in 9 hrs. — 39 M. Jerome Junction., for Jerome, with the huge United
Verde Copper Mines\ 57 M. Frescott (5300 ft.), in the midst of a rich mineral
region; 123 M. Congress Junction, for Congress. Near (139 M.) Wickenhurg
is the equally rich Vulture Mine. From (150 M.) Hot Springs Junction a
stage runs to (4 hrs.) Castle Hot Springs (2000 ft ; Hotel, from $3), with
mineral waters efficacious in rheumatism, ansemia, etc. — 194 M. Phoenix,
see p. 551.
At (1347 M.) Seligman (5219 ft.; Rail. Restaurant) the time
changes from 'Mountain' to 'Pacific' standard (1 hr. slower; comp.
p. xiv). The country now becomes more broken, with wide lava
beds and frequent rock-formations.
From (1385 M.) Peach Springs (Railway Restaurant; no hotel,
but lodgings may be found) another trail (too hot for summer-travel)
leads through the Diamond Creek Canyon to (23 M.) the Grand
Canyon (p. 481), descending from a height of 4780 ft. to the level
of the Colorado River (2000 ft.). The view is limited to the river
and its opposite wall. Carriages may be obtained at Peach Springs.
At (1403 M.) Tinnaka we pass a Government Indian school on
the right. 1408 M. Hackherry (3550 ft.), in a mining district. From
(1435 M.) Kingman (Railway Restaurant) a branch -line runs to
(26 M.) Chloride, whence stage and horseback routes lead to the
rich mining districts of (28 M.) the White Hills; (51 M.) Eldorado
Canyon, (66 M.) Rioville, (83 M.) St. Thomas, and (96 M.) Overton.
1485 M. Pocock is the last station in Arizona, and just beyond
it we cross the wide Colorado River by a noble cantilever bridge
1100 ft. long, and enter California. 1497 M. Needles (Depot Hotel,
$ 3) is so named from the curious pinnacles of purple porphyry and
trachytic granite, which have been for many miles in sight, 15 M.
to the S. Our train now runs to the W. across the great Mojave
Desert ('Mohahve'), an elevated sandy plateau, interspersed with
salt lakes and alkali tracts, with little vegetation except yucca-palms,
31*
484 Route 75. VISALIA.
small pifions (nut-pines, Pinus monophylla), junipers, and sage-
brush. Mountains are seen to the N. in the distance.
From (1528 M.) Goffs a branch-line runs to the N. to (29 M.)
Barnwell and (45 M.) Ivanpah. 1588 M. Bagdad (785 ft.; lunch-
counter). From (1612 M.) Ludlow a branch-line runs to the S. to
(8 M.) Camp Rochester^ while the Tonopah & Tidewater R. R. runs
N. to (241 M.J Goldfield and (272 M.) Tonopah (comp. p. 463).
1657 M. Daggett (comp. p. 504).
At (1666 M.) Barstow (2210 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant, with rooms) the
through-train divides, one section going to Los Angeles (see R. 76).
The main line to San Francisco continues to the "W. through the
Mojave Desert, here bordered by low mountains rich in minerals. —
1699 M. Kramer (24 iO ft.).
Feom Keameb to Johannesburg, 28 M,, in I1/2 hr. — This line serves
the mining district of Randsburg, producing gold, silver, copper, lead, pla-
tinum, anrimony, sulphur, borax, asbestos, and fuller's earth. From (28 M.)
Johannesburg stages run to Ballarat and Randshug.
We now cross the vast bed of a dry lake, and at (1737 M.)
Mojave we join the track of the Southern Pacific Railway, which our-
train follows to (1805 M.) Baker sfield (see p. 530). Beyond this
point the Santa Fe Railway has its own line into San Francisco,
more or less parallel with that of the Southern Pacific Railway (R. 82).
1870 M. Corcoran lies 2 M. to the E. of Tulare Lake (see p. 530).
The country between here and the mountains on the E. and S. is
partly inhabited by the Mariposa and Moquelumne Indians, whose
hand-work, in bowls and baskets, is highly valued by collectors.
From Corcoran a loop - line runs to the E. and then to the N. and
W., crossing King's River and regai"ing the main line at (71 M.) Fresno
(see below). 25 M. Visalia (Palace Hotel, $2), on this loop, one of the
earliest towns that was settled by Americans in the State (1852), is the
most convenient starting-point for excursions to the High Sierra on the
E. (see p. 530). An electric railway runs from Visalia to (20 M.) Lemon
Cove, the sta'-ling point of the stages to (35 M.; llhrs.; fares $61/2) the
Sequoia National Park or Giant Forest (6500 ft. •, Camp Sierra, $ 2, which
lies in the High Siera and contains splendid forests of sequoias, besides
most remarkable gorges, peaks, and caverns. The tree named 'General
Sherman' is 280 ft. in height and 9.0 ft. in girth. To the N. and W. is the
General Grant Park (p. 580). To the N.E. are the canyons of the "King'^s River
('a second Yosemite') and the ''Kern River, and ift. Whitney (14,502 ft.), the
highest peak in the country outside of Alaska. The ascent is somewhat
difficult, but a splendid *"View is obtained from its summit. Parties are made
up at Visalia and Camp Sierra and fitted out with animals, guides, and
camping equipment, at a cost of $ 2V2-3 a day.
1887 M. Hanford, a well-built little town, is the centre of a stock-
raising, dairy-farming, and fruit-growing region. At (1895 M.") Laton
are the offices of the Laguna de Tache Ranch of 60,000 acres. —
917 M. Fresno, also a station on the Southern Pacific line (p. 530).
Farther on we cross the San Joaquin River and many of its
branches, traversing a land rich in grain and cattle. Beyonji (1975 M.)
Merced (p. 529) are vast fields of the famous 'Merced Sweets' (sweet
potatoes or yams); here too, grows, the 'buhach', from which insect-
powder is made. We cross the Merced, Tuolumne, and Stanislaus
SAN BERNARDINO. 76. Route. 485
rivers, the names of wMcli recall Bret Harte's stories and poems ; the
great placer-mining district of the Argonauts of 1848 and 1849
stretches away to the N.E. Passing (2040 M.) StocMon (p. 465), we
turn more to the W., with Mt. Diablo on the left, and the N. arm of
San Francisco Bay (San Suisun and San Pahlo Bays) on the right.
After passing (2088 M.) Muir^ the train crosses a huge viaduct,
giving a grand view over Alhambra Valley to the ahove-named hays
and the Straits of Carquinez. — 2099 M. Pinole. From (2107 M.)
Richmond a branch-line runs to (11 M.) Oakland (p. 466), where
connection is made for the 'Key Route Ferry' to San Francisco. The
main line continues to (2109 M.) Ferry Point , whence the ferry
carries us in 20 minutes, to —
2116 M. San Francisco (p. 509).
76. From Kansas City to Los Angeles.
a. Yik Santa Fe Route.
Comp. Map, p. 535.
1807 M. Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fft E, R. in 55 lirs. (fares, etc.,
as at p. 476). Through-carriages run by this route from Chicago to (2265 M.)
Los Angeles (fare $62.50; sleeper $14, tourist-car $7) and to San Diego.
From Kansas City to (1666 M.) Barstow (p. 484), see R. 75 b.
From Barstow our line runs to the S., through the desert, follow-
ing the course of the Mojave River; in the distance are seen dry lakes
and extinct volcanic peaks. At (1711 M.) Hesperia are large groves
of yucca. From (1722 M.) Summit (3820 ft.) we descend the Cajon
Pass, with its stunted pines and scanty vegetation. To the W. are
seen Mt. San Antonio (p. 486), to the E. (farther off) the peaks of
San Bernardino (11,630 ft.) and San Gorgonio (11,485 ft.).
1747 M. San Bernardino (1075 ft. ; Stewart, $2-3V2; St.Charles,
$ 2-21/2), a town of (1900) 6150 inhab., well situated near the E.
margin of the valley of its own name. It was originally laid out by
Mormons in 1851, and has prospered as the railway- centre of a rich
fruit-growing region. An electrii; car line runs to (5 M.) Arrowhead
Hot Springs (2005 ft.; Hotel, R. from $ 1), on a level bench on the
mountain - side , famous for their sulphur curative qualities, and
another pleasant drive may be taken to the Squirrel Inn, on the
crest of the mountains. San Bernardino is the junction of a line to
San Diego and National City (see below).
Feom San Bernardino to (141 M.) San Diego and (147 M.) National
CiTT, railway in 5 hrs. At (4 M.) Golton (p. 550) this line crosses the
Southern Pacific Railway. — 6 M. Highgrove is the junction of a branch-line
to (18 M.) Ferris, a small settlement supplying an agricultural and a min-
ing district. [From Perris a line runs to (19 M.) San Jacinto, passing
through a country that is one great grain-field. From (17 M.) Hemet on
this latter line stages start for Idyllwild and Strawberry Valley Lodge, a
favourite summer camping -ground in 'he San Gorgonio mountains. Near
San Jacinto is the small Indian \dllage of Sohoho, one of the scenes in
,R.amona'. - From Perris another branch-line goes to (14 M.) Elsinore,
486 Route 76. RIVERSIDE. From Kansas City
a summer-resort on the lake of the same name, with many hot springs of
curative repute, in a mountainous region rich in minerals and in fine clay
for pottery, and to (26 M.) Temecula, famous in 'Ramona' and in the essays
of Mrs. Helen Hunt Jackson.]
9 M. Riverside (87oft. ; " Glenwood Mission Irm, a huUding of Spanish-Mis-
sion architecture, tastefully furnished and well-managed, from $ 3 ; Reynolds,
commercial, from $ 2^ 2), a town of (1900) 7973 inhab., offers, with the region
around, a notable instance of the transformation of an uninviting desert
into a garden, by virtue of industry and courage. It is the centre of the
seedless navel orange culture. The original tree from which these groves
have sprung is now within the grounds of the Glenwood Hotel. Over
2,500,000 boxes of oranges (worth $ 2,000,000) are exported annually, each
box containing from £0 to 200 oranges. Lemons are also cultivated with
success. The town is beautifully laid out, with wide streets bordered by
ornamental trees. ^Magnolia Avenue is 10 M. long and 130 ft. wide, with
double rows of pepper-trees. No bars or 'saloons' are allowed in the town,
and 'Bradstreef ranks it as the richest community, per caput, in the country.
Sherman Institute, a famous Indian school, is situated here. The ATb&i't
S. White Park, within the city limits, contains an unrivalled collection ot
cacti. The attractive Public Library is built in the Mission style, and the
County Court House is also a tasteful structure. There are many most
delightful drives in the neighbourhood, which give the visitor, along with
the views of the San Bernardino Eange, perfect pictures of every stage of
orange-growing. The ^Huntington Park Drive, on Mt. Rubidoux (1837 ft.),
affords magnificent views of mountain and valley. At the top are a Me-
morial Cross to Padre Junipero Serra fp. 525) and two old Mission Bells.
Riverside is a favourite resort of tourists and health-seekers, the air being,
curiously enough, at once stimulating and soothing. — From (24 M.) Corona,
once known as South Riverside (600 ft.), we follow the windings of the Santa
Ana River through its wild and lovely canyon to (47 M.) Orange, where we
join the line from Los Angeles to San Diego (p. 58:).
Beyond San Bernardino our line continues towards the W. Be-
tween (1759 M.) Etiu-anda and (1763 M.) North Cucamonga stretch
immense Tineyards, and good wine is made at the latter place.
1767 M. Upland (1210 ft.), formerly North Ontario, is a great ship-
ping point for the citrus- growing district of which it is the centre.
An electric tramway runs to (2'/2 M.) Ontario (p. 550) through
*Euclid Avenue, which is planted with eucalyptus and pepper trees.
The ascent of Mt. San Antonio ('Old Baldy'; 10,080 ft.) may he
made from Upland by driving for 9 M. through Sar^ Antonio Canyon,
and then continuing the ascent on a hurro.
From (1772 M.) North Pomona, a suburb of Pomona (junction
with the Southern Pacific Railway, see p. 549), the line runs between
vineyards, orange- groves, and olive-groves, broken by desert wastes.
1780 M. Olendora, a centre for citrus fruit and berries. 1783 M.
Azusa (Azusa Hotel, $21/2) is 1 M. to the S. of San Gabriel Valley,
with its numerous streams giving good fishing for large mountain
trout. 1788 M. Monrovia (Grand View Hotel, from $ 2), where our
line crosses the Southern Pacific Railway (see p. 550), is also con-
nected with Los Angeles by electric cars. 1792 M. Santa Anita;
1794 M. I.amandaPark (1738 ft.).
1797 M. Pasadena, and thence to —
1807 M. Los Angeles (Santa Fe Station), see p. 536.
to Los Angelea. SANTA ROSA. 76. Route. 487
b. yi& Bock Island System.
1759 M. Chicago, Rock Island, and El Paso Railboad in 551irs. (fares
etc. as at pp. 476, 485). Through-trains run daily from Chicago to (2277 M.)
Los Angeles.
From Kansas City to (67 M.) Topeka we follow the lines of the
Union Pacific Railway (see p. 470). We then diverge to the left. —
100 M. McFarland (1035 ft.), the junction of a branch -line to
(105 M.) Belleville (p. 470). 148 M. Herington (1340 ft.) is the
junction of a branch -line to (49 M.) Salina (p. 427) and also of
one of the main lines of the Rock Island System running S.
across Oklahoma (p. 476) to Fort Worth and Dallas (p. 637). —
196 M. McPherson (1510 ft.) is the centre of the great wheat and
broom-corn belt of Kansas. — 234 M. Hutchinson (1545 ft.), on
the Arkansas Biver, with flour-mills and packing-houses. There are
large salt-mines in the vicinity. — 256 M. Turon (1785 ft.);
276 M. Pratt (1920 ft.), with the Kansas' State Fish Hatchery;
307 M. Greenshurg (2245 ft.); 326 M. Bucklin (2430 ft.), the junction
of a branch -line to (27 M.) Dodge City (p. 477); 370 M. Meade
(2515 ft.). — At (413 M.) Liberal (2855 ft.) we enter the N.W.
corner of Oklahoma (p. 476); 433 M. Hooker (3000 ft); 473 M.
Texhoma (3500 ft.), named from its situation on the frontier be-
tween Texas and Oklahoma. For the next 50 M. we pass through
the so-called 'Pan Handle' of Texas. — 524 M. Dalhart (3990 ft.) ;
565 M. Bravo (4100 ft.). We now enter New Mexico (p. 493). —
569 M. Naravisa (4195 ft.); 594 M. Logan (3830 ft.). — 617 M.
Tucumcari (4195 ft.).
We change here from 'Central' to 'Mountain' time (see p. xiv). —
Fort Bascom. 9 M. to the N.E , on the Canadian River ^ is one of the oldest
forts in the W. — A branch-line runs N.W. to (132 M.) Dawson^ opening
up the coal-fields there.
At (676 M.) Santa Rosa (4265 ft.) , on the Pecos River, the
Rock Island line joins the El Paso & North-Eastern Railroad. The
surrounding country is devoted to stock-raising. — From (745 M.)
Torrance (6430 ft.) the Santa Fe Central R. R. runs N. to (116 M.)
Santa Fe (p. 478). — 753 M. Corona (6665 ft.), the highest point
on the Rock Island EI Paso Route. 'The surrounding country is
especially adapted to the Angora goat industry, probably the most
profitable pursuit in this section of New Mexico.' — 804 M. Carri-
zozo (5440 ft.) the junction of a line to (21 M.) Capitan, with its
coal-fields. — At (820 M.) Oscura (5015 ft.) we come into sight
of the Sierra Blanca (to the left). Adjacent is the Mai Pais (bad
land), a black lava flow of recent formation, 40 M. long and 10 M.
wide, which fills an ancient river-bed. — 832 M. Three Rivers
(4560 ft.) gets its name from three mountain rivers which rise near
White Mountain (14,000 ft.), the highest elevation in New Mexico.
— 849 M. Tularosa (4435 ft.; The Sanders, $11/2), the 'rose blos-
som'. Is the centre of a great fruit-growing section and a popular
health-resort. — 862 M. Alamogordo (4310 ft.), founded in 1900,
488 Route 77. COLORADO SPRINGS. From Denver
is already a prosperous little city with 4000 inhab. and the general
offices and shops of the El Paso North-Eastern R. R.
A branch-line ascends to (33 M.) Rvssia^ passing (26 M.) Clotidcroft (The
Lodge, $ 21/2-5), a summer-resort in the Sacramento Mts.
900 M. Jarilla Junction (4170 ft.}, with a rich turqnoise mine
owned by Tiffany of New York (p. 47). — 944 M. Fort Bliss, in
Texas, is a U. S. military post.
949 M. El Paso (see p. 591). We here join the] S. P. Railway
ronte to (1759 M.) Los Angeles (p. 531), described in R. 87.
77. From Denver to Salt Lake City and Ogden.
a. Vi4 Denver and Rio Grande Railroad.
753 M. Railwat in 22-24 hrs. (fare $18; sleeper $5; fare to Colorado
Springs, $ 2.25). Through-cars run on this line to San Francisco via Lead-
ville (see p. 498), but lovers of the picturesque may choose the narrow-
gauge route over Marshall Fass, uniting with the other line at Grand
Junction (comp. pp. 497, 499).
The 8omev?-hat ambitious title of ''Scenic Line of the World\ adopted
by this railway, is, perhaps, more justified by facts than is usually the case
w^ith such assumptions , for the railway actually passes through some of
the grandest scenery in the United States.
Denver, see p. 471. The line rnns towards the S., parallel with
the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Ry. (p. 476). To the right flows
the Platte River, while in the distance are the dim snowy peaks of the
Rocky Mts. (comp. p. 471). 25 M. Sedalia (5835 ft); 33 M. Castle
Rock (6220 ft.), so named from a rock that rises from the plain to the
left. Pike's Peak (p. 491) may now be seen in front, to the right. —
43 M. Larkspur is the station for Perry Park, with its fantastic rock
formations. To the right, about 8M. farther on, rises the Casa Blanca,
a huge white rock 1000 ft. long and 200 ft. high. — 52 M. Palmer
Lake (7240 ft. ; Rockland, $ 2-3 ; Rail. Restaurant), on the watershed
between the Platte, flowing N. to the Missouri, and the Arkansas,
flowing S. to the Mississippi. A road leads to the S.W. from Palmer
Lake to (35 M.) Manitou Park (p. 498). — The line traverses
cattle and sheep ranches. The snowy mountains re -appear from
their temporary concealment behind the foot-hills. — 62 M, Rusted
(6595 ft.). Several fantastic rocks are seen to the left. 67 M. Edgerton
(6420 ft.) is the nearest station to Monument Park (p. 492). — As
we approach Colorado Springs we have a splendid view, to the
right, of Pike's Peak (p. 491) and the Gateway of the Garden of
the Gods (p. 490). To the left lies Monument Creek Park (p. 489).
75 M. Colorado Springs. — "The Antlees Hotel, R. from $1V2 5
Alamo, $ 2V2-4, R. from $ 1 ; Plaza, from $ 21/2, R. from $ 1 ; Alta Vista, R.
from $1; *Broadmoor Hotel, connected with the Casino (p. 490), $3-4. —
Tramways traverse the chief streets and run to various suburban points.
Colorado Springs, a city of (1900) 21,085 inhab., on an elevated
plateau (6000 ft.) near the E. base of Pike's Peak, is pleasantly laid
to Ogden. COLORADO SPRINGS. 77. Route. 489
out, with wide tree-shaded streets, and resembles a well-kept and
well-to-do New England country-town. It is the principal health-
resort of Colorado, and has become the permanent residence of many
who are unable to bear the changeable climate of England or the
E. coast.
Colorado Springs was founded in 1871, thougli a settlement liad been
made aomewhat earlier at Coloi'ado City ('Old Town'), a small industrial
colony (2914 inhab.), 2 M. to the N.W. (comp. p. 498). No manufacturing
is carried on at Colorado Springs, which has been carefully kept as a
residential and educational centre, and no 'saloons' are permitted. It is
the pleasantest headquarters for exploring the surrounding district (Manitou
and Pike's Peak included).
The *View of the mountains from Colorado Springs, well seen from
Cascade Avenue, near Colorado College, is very grand. Pike's Peak (p. 491)
dominates the scene, while to the S. of it (named from right to left)
rise Cameron Cone (10,685 ft.), Sacheti ML, Bald Mt. (12,347 ft.), Mt. Rosa
(11,427 ft.), and Cheyenne Mt. (p 490). To the right of Pike's Peak opens
the Ute Pass (p. 498), and still farther to the right lies the Garden of
the Gods (p. 490). The Cheyenne Canyons (p. 490) lie between Cheyenne
Mt. and Mt. Rosa. In the foreground is the high -lying plateau known
as the Mesa (Span, 'table-land'). To the E. and S. of the town spreads the
illimitable prairie, which in certain states of the atmosphere looks start-
lingly like the ocean — an illusion intensified by the moving shadows,
the smoke of distant locomotives, and the outcrop of lines of rocks re-
sembling breakers.
The Climate of Colorado Springs resembles that of Davos and, like it,
is especially good for consumption or as a preventive for those predis-
posed to that disease. It is also well suited to persons suffering from
nervous exhaustion, malarial poisoning, and other debilitating aflfections,
but is usually harmful to the aged and to those with organic affections of
the heart or nerves. It has more wind and dust than Davos, but also more
sunshine and dryness -, and as the ground is bare most of the winter,
there is no period pf melting snow to prevent the invalid staying all the
year round. Riding, driving, and the usual winter- sports can be freely
indulged in. There is no rain from Sept. till April. In the winter (Nov.-
Mar.) of l'=^88-89 the average temperature at Davos was 26° Fahr., of Colorado
Springs 30°; the latter had 300 hrs. more sunshine than the former. The
prevailing winds at Colorado Springs are S.E. and N. ; the average per-
centage of humidity is 47. The town is sheltered by the foot-hills, except
to the S. E., where it lies open to the great plains; and, being situated
where they meet the mountains, it enjoys an openness and free supply of
fresh air like the sea-shore, without its dampness. The soil is dry sand
and gravel, with a shallow top-layer of garden soil. There are nn springs
beneath the town-site. Good water is brought from the mountains, and
the sewerage system is excellent. The accommodation for invalids is
comfortable. No invalid should come or remain without medical advice.
Colorado Springs is a capital centre for innumerable attractive
drives and excursions. Among the most prominent buildings are
Colorado College (600 students) and its preparatory school, Cutler
Academy; the State Asylum for the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind; the
National Printers' Home; the Opera House; and the Hotels and
Hospitals. Helen Hunt Jackson ('H. H.'; 1831-85) is buried in Ever-
green Cemetery. Several charming Parks have been laid out within
the city itself and on the surrounding bluffs, such as that on Mon-
ument Creek, with its three springs, on the W. side of the city.
The chief clubs are the El Paso Club, the Pike's Peak Club, the New
Elks, the Oolf Club, and the Country Club (p. 490).
490 Route 77. MANITOU. From Denver
Excursions from Colorado Springs.
(1). Palmer Park, formerly Avstin Bluffs, SVz M. to the N.E., is joined
with the city by two boulevards and commands a magnificent "View of the
Rocky Mts., the city, and the plains. The Spanish Peaks, 100 M. to the S.,
are clearly discernible. To the W. are the peaks mentioned at p. 489. To
the 1^. is the Divide, or watershed between Colorado Springs and Denver.
(2). Cheyenne Mt. and the Cheyenne Canyons. The foot of Cheyenne Mt.
(9407 ft.), which rises 5 M. to the S.W. of Colorado Springs , is easily
reached in 25 min. by electric tramway (10 c), passing near the pleasant
quarters of the Country Club (p. 489) and the -Broadmoor Casino, with
its boating-lake, a good restaurant (D. $ 1.25), ball-rooms, and orchestral
concerts. The *'Chei/enne Mt. Road leads across the flank of the mountain,
commanding exquisite views, in which the brilliant red rocks, the blue
sky, the green trees, and the dazzling white snow offer wonderful com-
binations of colour. The road is well kept, but is steep and narrow, so that
steady horses, driver, and head are desirable. It goes on to (22 M.) Seven
Lakes (10,350 ft. •, inn, sometimes closed) and to (30 M.) Cripple Creek (p. 491), but
many visitors turn back at the (2V2 M.) Horseshoe Curve. The summit of the
mountain may be reached by a path (1 M.) diverging to the left near the
saw -mill. — The *Cheyenne Canyons are on the N. side of the mountain,
and the electric tramway ends near their entrance. The ^'S. Canyon (adm.
50 c, on Sun. 25 c.) may be followed on foot to (1 M.) the Falls, which
descend 500 ft. in seven leaps. From the top of the flights of steps we
may ascend to the left to the brink of the canyon ('View) and go on thence
to the above-mentioned road, where our carriage may be ordered to meet
us. The road through the N'. Canyon (fine falls, pools, and cliffs) has re-
cently been extended to Bear Creek, making what is known as the 'High
Drive (from Colorado Springs and back, 3V2 hrs). A good view of both
canyons is obtained from the Cripple Creek Railway (p. 491).
(3). Garden of the Gods (5M.). The road leads to the N. W. across the
Mesa (p. 489), passing (4 M.) the entrance to Glen Eyrie, a private estate
(visitors admitted), including a famous horse-raising farm and containing
fantastic rocky scenery (Cathedral Rock, Major Domo, etc.). About 1 M.
farther on we reach the "Gateway of the Garden of the Gods., consisting
of two enormous masses of bright red rock, 3r^0 ft. "high and separated
just enough for the roadway to pass between. The *Garden of the Gods
is a tract of land about 500 acres in extent, thickly strewn with grotesque
rocks and cliffs of red and white sandstone. Among the chief features
are the Cathedral Spires, the Balanced Rock, etc. On reaching the cross-
roads on the other side of the Garden we may either proceed to the right
to (IV2 M.) Ma'iitou (see below) or return to the left, via Colorado City
(p. 498), to (4V2 M.) Colorado Springs. — Walkers should take the Jlanitou
tramway to Gardm of the Gods Station (10 c), and walk through the Garden
to the Gatetcay (see above; visit to Glen Eyrie) and the Balanced Rock,
whence they may return by tramway to Colorado Springs or go on to
Manitou ("ee below).
(4). Manitou (6307 ft. ; Cliff Ho., $ 3-5; The Mansions, $ 3-5; Iron Springs,
$ 4 ; Navaho, % l^ji-k ; Grand View, from $ 2V2 ; Sunny side, Ruxton, $ 2-3). situated
in a small valley among the spurs of Pike's Peak, and at the mouth of the
Ute Pass (p. 498), is largely frequented for its fine scenery and its effervescing
springs of soda and iron. It is reached from Colorado Springs by the railway
(via Colorado City, 6 M.; 10 c), by electric tramway (10 c), or by driving
across the Mesa or through the Garden of the Gods (ca. 5 M. ; comp. above).
The waters, which belong to the group of weak compound carbonated
soda waters and resemble those of Ems. are beneficial in dyspepsia, diseases
of the kidneys, and consumption. The chief springs are the Navcu'o,
Manitou, Shoshone, Little Chief, and Iron. The water is very palatable and
is used both for drinking and bathing; there is a well-equipped Bath
House. The so-called Cliff Dicellings are an imitation of such prehistoric
houses as those mentioned at p. 493 and contain a few Tnflian antiquities.
Among the namerons pleasant points within reach of Manitou are the
picturesque "Ute Pa-^s (p. 498), with the fine Rainbow Falls (IV2 M. from
Manitou) and the Grand Caverns (adm. $1; fine stalactites and stalagmites,
*-eisiA_'BU3Tia:
to Ogden. CRIPPLE CREEK. 77. Route. 491
often gorgeously coloured); Williams Canyon., with (1 M.) the Cave of the
Winds ($ 1; these two walks easily combined by a trail near the entrance of
the Cave of the Winds); the (3 M.) Red Canyon; Ruxton's Glen and Engle-
man's Canyon ; the (81/2 M.) Garden of the Gods (p. 490) ; Monument Park (p. 492) ;
the Cheyenne Canyons (p. 490; 8 M.); and the Seven Lakes (p. 480; 9 M. by trail,
25 M. by road). Manitou Park (p. 498) ia 20 M. distant.
(5). *Pike's Peak (14,108 ft.), one of the best-known summits of the
Rocky Mta., rears its snowy crest about 6 M. to the W. of Colorado Springs
and just above Manitou. It is usually ascended by the Manitou and Pike's
Peak Railway, which was built upon the Abt cog-wheel system and opened
in 1891 The railway begins in Engleman's Canyon, a little above Manitou
Iron Springs (p. 498). Its length is 83/4 M., with a total ascent of 7500 ft. or
an average of 846 ft. per mile (steepest gradient 1 : 4). The ascent (return-
fare $5) is made in about IVzhr. About one-third of the way up is
the ''Halfway House (meal 75c.), a pleasant little hotel in Buxton Park,
frequented by summer-visitors. — The Beidle Path (6 hrs. on foot or
on horseback; horse $5) begins near the railway-station and ascends
throagh Engleman's Canyon (trail well defined; guide unnecessary for
experts). Another trail, i'/z M. long, now seldom used, ascends from the
Seven Lakes (p. 490). — The old carriage-road up Pike's Peak, beginning
at Cascade, 6 M. from Manitou, is now disused. — The summit is occupied
by a small Inn, open in summer (meals $ 1), containing a large telescope.
A tablet (1906) commemorates the discovery of Pike's Peak by Lieut,
Zebulon Pike in 1806. The ■View is superb, embracing thousands of
square miles of mountain and plain. The Spanish Peaks (p. 492) and the
grand Sangre de Cristo Range (including Blanca Peak, p. 492) are seen to
the S. and Long's Peak to the IN., while the other peaks visible include
Mt. Lincoln (N.), Gray's Peak, Mt. Bross, and the neighbouring mountains
named at p. 489. Denver, Pueblo, Colorado Springs, and Manitou are all
visible. The ascent of Pike's Peak can be safely made in summer only,
owing to the snow; the mountain-railway begins running in June.
(6). Feom Colorado Speings to Ckipple Creek, 59 M., Colorado Springs
& Cripple Creek District Railway in 3 hrs. (fare $2.75; return -fare, good
for ten days, $5, on Sun. and almost daily from June to Oct., $2.50, or
for passengers by the transcontinental trains, $ 2.75; through-carriages and
observation-car from Denver). Thi'; railway, popularly known as 'The
Short Line', connects Colorado Springs with the rich Cripple Creek Gold
District, and affords a trip of singular attractiveness in its views of scenery,
its glimpses of gold-mining, and the engineering achievement of its con-
struction. It winds round the rim of the canyons, curving in quick loops
and sudden returns almost on itself, and passing through nine tunnels. —
Leaving Colorado Springs, the train reach e=5 the margin oi North Cheyenne
Canyon (p. 490) at (7 M.) Point Sublime (7159 ft.), affording fine views of
the canyon, Colorado Springs, and Crescent Lake. On the right, far above
us, are the Silver Cascade Falls. Beyond (11 M.) Fairview (7926 ft.) we reach
the junction of the H". Canyon with the South Cheyenne Canyon., along the edge
of which we now mount, passing (15 M.) St. Peter's and (IS M.) Duffields,
to (21 M.) Summit (9918 ft.), where the view is singularly impressive. Along
the line we have seen many favourite camping-grounds by the side of pretty
mountain -streams, which give abundant trout - fishing. At (30 M) Clyde
(31/2 M. from Seven Lakes, p. 4F0) is Cathedral Park, with fantastic rock-
formations and a cavern of perpetual ice. At (40 M) Cameron (the junction
of the Midland Terminal Railway 10 Divide, p. 498) we cross the lower of
two passes into (45 M.) Victor (see below). | Trains occa.^ionally run direct
to (46 M ) Cripple Creek by the HooHer Pass (10,3( 0 ft.).] Both passes afford
views of ihe W. slope of Pike's Peak (see above) and the Sangre de Cristo
Range (p. 495). — 5' M. Cripple Creek (see below).
Cripple Creek (9590 ft.; National Hotel, R. from $ 1) has changed since
1891 from a small cattle-ranch into one of the chief gold-mining towns in
the country, with (19(X)) 10,147 inhab. and numerous substantial build-
ings. The annual value of its gold-production is now abont $20,000000.
It is connected by electric tramway with Victor (The Baltimore, $21/2),
another important mining-centre,^ with 4986 inhab. ; and a circle-tour by the
492 Route 77. PUEBLO. From Denver
'Iligli Line' and the 'Low Line' (fare 25 c.) gives an excellent survey of
the various gold-camps of the district.
(7). Monument Park (Monument Hotel), a tract of curiously eroded sand-
stone rocks, similar to those of the Garden of the Gods (see p. 490), may he
reached from Colorado Springs by road (9 M. ; carr. $ 6-8) or by railway to
Edgerton (p. 483), from which it is 1/2 M. distant.
Among other points of interest near Colorado Springs are Bear Ci-eek
Canyon, 3 M. to theW. ; My Garden {so named by H. H.), 4 M. to the S.W.,
on the slope of Cheyenne Mt. (view); Templeton^s Gap and Colorado
Springs Garden Ranch, ^y^M.. to the N.E.; and Blair Athol, a lovely glen
to the N. of Glen Eyrie (p. 480).
Beyond Colorado Springs our line continues to run towards the S.
To tlie right we see Cheyenne Mt. (p. 490) ; to the left extends the
boundless prairie. Stations unimportant.
119 M. Pueblo (4665 ft.,- Union Depot Hotel ^^ Restaurant,
$ 3, meal 76 c. 5 Grand, from $3; Maine, $3-4; Southern, $2),
situated at the confluence of the Arkansas River and the Fontaine
qui Bouille Creek, is an active commercial and industrial city of
28,157 inhab., with smelting and steel works. It is an important
railway- centre and the outlet of a rich mining district (coal, iron, etc.)
and also trades in agricultural products. The Mineral Palace, a
curious building with a ceiling formed of 28 domes, contains speci-
mens of all the minerals produced in the State.
Beyond Pueblo the D. & R. G. E,. R. runs due S. on to (210 M, from
Denver) Trinidad (p. 477), where it joins the main line of the Atchison,
Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway (see R. 75 b),
Cuchara Junction (5930 ft.), 170 M. from Denver, is the point of diverg-
ence of the Silverton branch of the D. & R. G. R. R., forming part of the
'Around the Circle' tour mentioned at p. 475. Between Cuchara and (191 M.)
La Veta (7025 ft.) the isolated Spanish Peaks (13,620 ft. and 12,720 ft.) are
well seen to the left (S.). Beyond (195 M.) Francisco we begin to ascend
the *Veta Pass, the summit of which (207 M.) i.s 9390 ft. above the sea. Two
engines are required to draw the train up the steep incline, and great en-
gineering skill has been shown in overcoming its difficulties (maximum
gradient 1 : 10). The most abrupt bend is known as the Mule-Shoe Curve.
To the right rises Veta Mt. (11.175 ft.). We now begin to descend into the
"San Luis Valley or Park, the largest of the Great Parks of Colorado
(p. 461). It is 100 M. long, 60 M. wide, and about 7000 ft. above the sea-level,
and is surrounded by mountains 11-14,000 ft- high. 215 M. Blanca; 221 M.
Mortimer; 228 M. Garland (7924 ft.). To the right towers the triple peaked
Blanca Peak (14,390 ft.), the southfirnmost of the Sangre de Cristo Range
and loftiest of the Rocky Mts. — 2o2M. Alamosa (7536 ft. ; Victoria, $ 3 ; Rail.
Restatirant^, a brisk little t"wn of 1141 inhab., on the Rio Grande del Norte,
is the junction of a branch-line to (69 M.) Creeds and of another to Villa
Grove and Salida (see p. 495). [The Creede branch ascends alonsi the Rio
Grande del Norte. 17 M. Monte Vista (7650 ft. : Grand, $ 2-3); 31 M. Del Norte
(7880 ft. ; Windsor Ho., S 2); 47 M. South Fork. Farther on ((0 M.) we pass
through the "W«gon Wheel Gap (8450 ft), a picturesque mountain pass,
with Hot Springs (Hotel, $2V2). 69 M. Creede {Zang S2) was one of the
most wonderful of the silver cities of Colorado, dating only from the dis-
covery of the ore here in 1891, but already containing 7000 inhab^ and pro-
ducing silver to the value of $4,000,000 in 1892. Its 'boom', however,
sooE gave out, and in 1900 its population had sunk to 938.] — 266 M. La
Jara ('La Hahra'' ; 7600 ft.); 272 M. Manassa, a Mormon settlement. —
230 M. Antonito (7876 ft. ; Palace, $ 2) is the junction of a line running S.
to (92 M.) Espanola and (125 M.) Santa Fl.
[The Espanola branch enters New Mexico (p. 493) at (12 M.) PalmiUa
and traverses a district inhabited mainly by Spanish-speaking Mexicans.
to Ogden. MANGOS CANYON. 77. Route. 493
From (65 m.) Barranca a stage runs to (11 M.) the hot springs of OJo Caliente.
About 6 M. farther on the train enters the wild "Comanche Canyon ('Co-
manchay'). — 45 M. Servilleta is the starting-point for a visit to the (30 M.)
lueblo de Taos ('Tows'), one of the most interesting and complete of the
cities of the Pueblo Indians (see p. Ixii). A grand festival is held here on
Sept. 30th. The curious mysteries celebrated by Los Hermanos Penitentes
in Passion Week in -lude much self-flagellation and culminate at Easter in
a realistic drama of the Crucifixion. — At (73 M.) Embudo (5810 tt.), we
reach the Rio Grande del Norte (p. 492). — 92 M. Espanola (5578 ft.), a
small hamlet. On the opposite bank of the Rio Grande is the old Mexican
town of Santa Cruz., with a 16th cent, church. Excursions may also be
made to the (IV2M.) Pueblo of Santa Clara., the (4M.)Pzie6Zo of San Man., the
Pueblo de Taos (see abo/e), etc. — Beyond Espanola the line goes on to
(125 M.) Santa Fi (p. 478).]
From Antonito the Silverton line runs towards the W., gradually as-
cending from the San Luis Valley towards the Conejos Mis. ('Conehos'), We
repeatedly cross and recross the boundary between Colorado and I^eto
Mexico ('Sunshine State'). Beyond (306 M.) Sublette the railway bends round
Phantom Curve, so called from the spectral sandstone rocks bordering the
track. Below us (left) lies the Los Pinos Valley. The alignment of the railway
here is of the most tortuous character. Beyond (810 M.) Toltec we thread
a tunnel and enter (815 M.) the imposing *Toltec Gorge, the bottom of which
lies 1500 ft. below us. The best view is obtained from the bridge crossed
soon after emergina; from the tunnel; and just beyond this, to the left, is a
Memorial of President Garfield (d. 1881). At (331 M.) Cwmftre* (10,003 ft.) we
reach the top of the pass across the Conejos or San Juan Mis. and begin the
descent. 844 M. Chama (7860 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant, meal 75 c). From (390 M.)
Pagosa Junction a branch-line runs to (31 M.) Pagosa Springs (7096 ft. ; hotel;
springs, 140° Fahr.). 404 M. Arboles (6001 ft.). At (426 M.) Ignacio we reach
a reservation of the Ute Indians. — 452 M. Durango (6508 ft.; Strater House,
from $ 2V2; Palace, Inter-Ocean, $ 2), a progressive town of 3317 inhab., on
the Rio de las Animas, is the commercial centre of S.W. Colorado.
[From Durango the tourist may, if he prefer, continue the 'Circle
by the Rio Orande Southern R. R., rejoining the main route at Ridgway
(p. 494). This line passes Fort Lewis, crosses the Animas watershed at
(21 M.J Cima (8588 ft.), and descends the Mancos Valley to (40 M.) Mancos.
This is the starting-point of the trail to the (20M.) famous *Cliff Dwellings
of the Mancos Canyon, which rank among the most important remains
of the mysterious cliflf-dwellers and should be visited by every student
of the native races of America (guide and horses on application to the rail-
road agent at Mancos). The Mesa Verde National Park has been established
to ensure their preservation. The so-called 'Cliff Palace' is the largest
and best-preserved. Comp. p. Ixiii and 'The Land of the Cliff Dwellers',
by F. E. Chapin. — At (47 M.) Milwood (7640 ft.) we cross the Chicken
Greek Divide and then descend through Lost Canyon to (60 M.) Dolores
(6945 ft.; hotel). [Dolores is the nearest railway-station to the wonderful
^Natural Bridges of Utah, which lie about 100 M. to the W. and were
discovered in 1 95. The bridges, three in number, may be visited on horse-
back from the small town of Bluff, on the San Juan River, 65 M. to the
S.E. The Augusta Bridge is 265 ft. hiiih and 320ft. in span; the Caroline
Bridge, 182 ft. by 350 ft. ; and the Edicin Bridge, the most graceful, 111 ft.
by 205 ft. All three are of light sandstone. The district has been declared
a National Park.] From Dolores we ascend through the Dolores Valley and
the narrow Dolores Canyon to ( 96 M.) Rico (8725 ft. ; Enterprise Hotel, $21/2),
a mining centre (pop. 81I) amid the San Miguel Mts. From Rico the train
climbs (gradient 11 : 100) to (110 M.) the Lizard Head Pass (10,238 ft.),
whence it descends on the other side of the San Miguel Mts., passing (113 M.)
"Trout Lake (9790 ft. ; hotel). This descent, by means of the (117 M.) Ophir
Loop (9220 ft.) and numerous zigzags, iron bridges, and rock-cuttings, taxed
the skill of the engineer to the utmost. From (124 M.) Vance Junction (8104 ft.)
a line runs to (8M.) Telluride (8104ft. ; Sheridan, $8), a beautifully situated
mining town (pop. 2446), passing the large Keystone Placer Mine. From
Telluride this line goes on to (2 M.) Pandora. Beyond (136 M.) Placerville
494 Route 77. OURAY. From Denver
(7309 ft. ; hotel) we cross the Horse-Fly Range^ a spnr of the Uncompahgre Mtt.
(p. 496), at the (149 M.) Dallas Divide (8977 ft.), and then descend into the
fertile "Dallas or Pleasant Valley, surrounded by snow-capped peaks. 154 M.
High Bridge (7960 ft.). — 162 M. Ridgteay, see below.
From Durango a branch-line runs to (50 M.) Farmington, passing (35 M.)
Aztec, also with interesting remains of stone pueblos.
Beyond Durango the Silver or 'Rainbow' Route turns to the N. and fol-
lows the Rio de las Animas. Beyond (459 M.) Trimble Hot Springs (6645 ft. ;
Hermoia, $ 21/2-3) the valley contracts and at (469 M.) Rockwood (7355 ft.),
with a huge reservoir for supplying water-power to the mines, we reach
the beaatiful "Animas Canyon, the walls of which rise 500 ft. above us on the
one side and drop 1000 ft. below us on the other. A single mile of track
her^ cost 5 140,0(X) (28,000 I.) to build. On issuing from the canyon we see
the carious Needle Mts. towering to the right. We then traverse the pretty
little Elk Park. To the left rises Garfield Peak (12,135 ft.). — 497 M. Sil-
verton (9288 ft.; Grand, $3), a mining town with 1360 inhab., and the
terminus of this branch of the D. & R. G. R. R., lies in Baker Park, near
the base of Sultan Mt. (13.336 ft.), one of the grandest of the San Juan Mts.
We now follow the Silverton Railway, one of the most extraordinary
feats of engineering in America, which ascends over Red Mt. (13,338 ft.)
to (15 M.) Red Mountain, a small mining town. The line winds backwards and
forwards like the trail of a serpent and finally attains a height of 11,235 ft.
(2000 ft. above Silverton)^ The scenery is of the grandest description,
and the *View from the summit is superb. The descent is as wonderful
as the ascent. Numerous mines are passed.
At Red Mountain we leave the railway and proceed by stage to (8 M. ;
a drive of 2^/2 hrs.) Ouray (see below). The road is good and the scenery
magnificent. To the left rises Mt. Abrahams (12,600 ft.). We pass the Bear
Creek Falls (250 ft. high) and the * Uncompahgre Canyon.
Ouray (7720 ft.; "Beaumont Hotel, $ 3; Wilson, $ 21/2, R. from $ 1), where
we again reach the D. & R. G. R. R., is a picturesque mountain-town with
2196 inhab., frequented for its grand scenery and its hot medicinal springs.
To the S. rise Mt. Hardin and Mt. Hayden; to the N.W. is Uncompahgre
Peal (p. 496). — The distance from Ouray to Montrose (see p. 496) is 36 M.
On the way the railway passes the confluence of the Uncompahgre and the
Dallas, (10 M.) Ridgway (990 ft.; Mentone, $3-4; see p. 493), the (22 M.)
old Los Pinos Agency., and (26 M.) Fort Crawford, a U. S. military post.
From Montrose to Salida and Denver and to Salt Lake City, see p. 496.
Our line from Pueblo now diverges to tlie right (W.) from the
line running S. to Trinidad (see p. 492) We follow the course of the
Arkansas River (left), crossing various tributaries. To the right fine
views are enjoyed of Pike's Peak (p. 491), towering above the lower
mountains. — 151 M. Florence ^v^iih large petroleum tanks and derricks.
From Floeence to Cripple Creek, 49 M., railway in 3 hrs. (through
cars from Denver in 8 hrs.). This line opens up an important mining
district. 34 M. Wilbur ; 44 M. Victor (p. 491). — 49 M. Cripple Creek, see p. 491
160 M. Canyon City (5332 ft. ; Strathmore, $3; 5f. Cloud, from
$2; Hot Springs Hotel, 2 M. to the W., $2-3), a small health-
resort (3775 inhab.), frequented for its hot mineral springs, situated
at the mouth of the Royal Gorge, 2 M. to the W.
The most interesting short excursion is that (electric car) to the new
^Suspens'on Bridge, crossing the Royal Gor^e (see below) 2600 ft. {i.e. V2 M.)
above the river and the railway. The roadway of the bridge is composed
partly of plate glass. About 10 M. oflf is Dau)son''s Camp, a rich gold mine.
Beyond Canyon City we pass between the Hot Springs Hotel (left)
and the State Penitentiary (right) and enter the famous *Grand
Canyon of the Arkansas, 8 M. of stupendous rocky scenery (granite),
through which the railway barely makes its way along the boiling
to Ogden. SALIDA. 77. Route. 495
river (observation-car attaclied to the train here). At the narrowest
point, known as the Royal Gorge, where the train stops for a few
minutes, the rocks tower to a height of 2600 ft and the railway
passes over a bridge hung from girders mortised into the smooth sides
of the canyon. Overhead is the suspension bridge mentioned at p. 494.
Beyond the canyon we still follow the foaming Arkansas, passing
numerous fantastic rocks and crags. Farther on we obtain a good view,
in front, of the superb snow-clad *Sangre de Crista Range. To the left
is the Broadside Range. As we near Salida the Collegiate Peaks (see
p. 474} come into sight, in front (N.W.).
215 M. Salida (7038 ft. 5 Monte Crista, at the station, $ 3), a small
town (3722 inhab.), beautifully situated and commanding a grand
mountain-view (to the S., the lower N. peaks of the Sangre de Cristo
Range; to the S.W., Mts. Ouray and Shavano; to the N.W., the
Collegiate Peaks). The small hill in front of the station (1/2 lir- ; very
steep path) is a commanding point of view.
From Salida passengers by the Denver & Rio Grande R. R. have a
choice of two routes, uniting at Grand Junction (p. 497). The
narrow-gauge line (left) crosses Marshall Pass (p. 496), while the
standard-gauge line, with through-carriages (comp. p. 488), runs
via Leadville (p. 498). The latter route, which coincides to some
extent with the Colorado Midland Railway (p. 498), is here given in
small type, while the Marshall Pass line is given as the main route.
From Salida to Gkand Junction via Leadville, 235 M., railway in
9-10 hrs. — The train runs towards the N., with Mt. Shavano (14,239 ft.) to
the left. 7 M. Broum''s Canyon; 18 M. JV^aiArop (7686 ft.); 25 M, Buena Vista
(p. 474). To the left tower the Collegiate Peaks (p. 474). 42 M. Granite
(8980 ft.; comp. p. 475) is the best point for excursions to the Twin Lakes,
one of the finest points in South Park (p. 475). — 56 M. Malta (9580 ft.)
is the junction of the branch-line to (5 M.) Leadville (p. 498). — 59 M.
Leadville Junction. At (66 M.) Tennessee Pass (10,229 ft.) we cross the Con-
tinental watershed (tunnel) and begin to descend towards the Pacific Ocean.
To the lett rises Mt. Massive (14,424 ft.), at the foot of which is Evergreen
Lake. Just before reaching (74 M.) Pando we have a good view (left) of
the Mountain of the Holy Cross (p. 474). A little farther on we pass through
the short but fine Red Cliff Canyon. 79 M. Red Cliff (859S ft.). About 5 M.
farther on is the Eagle River Canyon, where the mining-shafts and miners'
dwellings are seen clinging to the sides of the cliffs, 2000 ft. above our
heads. Near (^^7 M.) Minturn, to the right, is a rock known as the Lioness.
From (104 M.) Wolcott stages run to (70 M.) Steamboat Springs, with a large
group of mineral springs. Beyond (133 M.) Dotsero, at the confluence of
the Eagle and Grand Rivers, we enter the fine "^Canyon of the Grand River,
which is 16 M. long and has rocky sides reaching a height of 2000-251 X) ft.
We pass through three tunnels, the last 444 yds. long. — 145 M. Glenwood
Springs (5747 ft.), see p. 499. A branch-line runs hence to (41 M.) Aspen
(see p. 499). To the S.E. towers Mt. Sopris (12,828 ft.). Beyond Glenwood
we continue to follow the Grand River, which flows to the left. 158 M.
Newcastle, and thence to (285 M.) Grand Junction, see p. 499.
Beyond Salida the narrow-gauge line runs at first towards the
S. W. — 220 M. Poncha (7471 ft. ; Poncha Hot Springs Ho., Jackson
Ho., $2), with hot springs (90-185*^). is the junction of a branch-
line to (11 M.) Monarch. — From (226 M.) Mears Junction (8421 ft.)
a line runs S. to (74 M.) Alamosa (p. 492).
496 Route 77. GUNNISON. From Denver
This line also runs througli a picturesque district, affording good views
(left) of the Sangre de Cristo Range, including the Three Tetons (p. 456),
Mutic Peak (13,300 ft.), and Blanca Peak (p. 492).
We ascend rapidly, the boldly constructed line winding back-
wards and forwards in a series of the most abrupt curves. Lofty
mountains rise on every side. The top of the *Marsliall Pass, one
of the loftiest passes across the main ridge of the Rocky Mts., is
10,858 ft. above the sea. The view includes Mt Ouray [13,955 ft),
rising close to the line on the right, and the Sangre de Cristo Range
to the S.E. Snow lies here all the year round.
The first part of the descent is very rapid, and numerous abrupt
curves are turned (no standing on the platform allowed). — 257 M.
Sargent (8467 ft.). We now traverse a bleak moorland district.
Beyond (277 M.) Parlin (7942 ft.) we repeatedly cross the meander-
ing Tomichi. — 289 M. Gunnison (7673 ft. ; La Veta Hotel, with
railway-restaurant, $3, meal 75 c), a town of 1200 inhab., is of
considerable importance as the outlet of a rich mining district.
A br;inch-line runs from Gunnison to (39 M.) Ruby, passing (28 M.)
Crested Butte (8867 ft .; Hlk Mountain Ho., $ 2), a small town, in a district
rich in coal, silver, and gold. The Crested Butte is close to the town.
The Elk Mts. rise finely from the plain to the W. and afford good shooting.
Beyond Gunnison we follow the Ounnison River, at first on one
side and then on the other. — 314 M. Sapinero (7245 ft.) is the
junction of a line, running through *Lake Fork Canyon, to (37 M.)
Lake City, near the beautiful Lake San Cristobal. An observation
car is attached to the train for the passage of the *Black Canyon, or
Grand Gorge of the Gunnison, which is 15 M. long and in some re-
spects even grander than the Royal Gorge. Among the most promi-
nent individual features are the CMppeta Falls (right) and the *Cur-
recanti Needle, a lofty pinnacle of rock surmounted by a flag-staff
(about halfway down the canyon). The river, which M'e cross and re-
cross, alternates between foaming rapids and pleasant quiet reaches.
Near the end of the canyon we diverge to the left from the Gunnison
and follow the canyon of its tributary, the *Cimarron, one of the finest
pieces of the whole gorge. From (329 M.) Cimarron (6896 ft. , Rail.
Restaurant) we ascend rapidly to (335 M.) Cerro Summit (7958 ft.),
and then descend, nearly as rapidly, towards the Lower Gunnison.
About 2 M. from (341 M.) Cedar Creek (6742 ft.) is one end of the
Gunnison Tunnel (nearly 6 M. long), driven through the Mesa Verde
Ridge to divert the water of the Gunnison into the Uncompahgre
Valley. 352 M. Montrose (5800 ft.; Belvidere, $21/2, with rail,
restaurant) is the junction of the line to Ouray (see p. 494). The
Uncompahgre Mts., culminating in Uncompahgre Peak (14,290 ft.),
are seen to the S.W. (left). Beyond (373 M.) Delta (4970 ft.), the
junction of a branch-line to Paonia and (44 M.) Somerset, in a fruit-
growing district, we pass through the Canyon of the Lower Gunnison,
where the smooth-faced sandstone cliffs are striking. Beyond (398 M.)
Bridgeport we thread a tunnel 722 yds. long. Farther on we cross
the Grand River, just above the mouth of the Gunnison.
to Ogden. GRAND JUNCTION. 77. Route, 497
424 M. Grand Junction (4573 ft. ; St. Regis, $21/2-3 ; La Court,
R. from $ 1 ; Rail. Restaurant') is of importance as the junction of
the Denver and Colorado Midland railways (see p. 499). We contimie
to follow the Grand River (left). To the right are the fantastic Little
Book Cliffs. At (458 M.) Utah Line we enter Utah (pp. 461, 500).
To the left, in the distance, are the La Sal and San Rafael Mts. To
the right are the Roan or Book Mts. (7000-9000 ft), with their varie-
gated cliffs. 479 M. Cisco. — At (529 M.) Green River (4084 ft.)
we cross the river of that name and enter another stretch of desert.
Beyond Green River the train ascends steadily towards the Wah-
satch Range. At (555 M.) Lower Crossing (4680 ft.) we cross the
S. fork of the Price River. 594 M. Price (5547 ft.) ; 604 M. Helper
(Rail. Restaurant). At (611 M.) Castle Gate (6120 ft.) we reach the
*Castle or Price River Canyon, the entrance to which is formed by
two pinnacles of sandstone, 450-500 ft. high , barely leaving room
for the railway and river to pass be tween them. 619 M. Colton
(7071 ft.). At (626 M.) Soldier Summit (7454 ft.) we reach the top
of the pass over the Wahsatch Mts. and begin to descend on the
other side. 633 M. Clear Creek (8180 ft.). — 651 M. Thistle (5050 ft.)
is the junction of a line to Manti (with a large Mormon Temple like
that at Salt Lake City), Salina, and (132 M.) Marysvale. A little
farther on we pass through the pretty little Spanish Fork Canyon
and emerge in the beautiful Utah Valley (p. 500). To the S. rises
Mt. Neho (11,887 ft.). From (666 M.) Springville (4555 ft.) a branch-
line, with a wonderful double-circle loop, runs through the Goshen
Vfllley to (43 M.) Silver City, in the Tintic Mining District (p. 503).
To the left lies Utah Lake, with the Oquirrh Mts. rising beyond it.
— 671 M. Provo (4512 ft.; Roberts Ho., $2-3), a thriving little
Mormon city, with 6185 inhab., situated on the Provo River, a little
above its mouth in Utah Lake. A branch-line runs hence through
the Provo Canyon (waterfalls) to (26 M.) Heber (Hot Pots Hotel),
with its so-called 'Hot Pots' or natural craters of boUing water. —
688 M. Lehi (4550 ft. ; comp. p. 503). Farther on we see (left) the
small river Jordan, connecting Utah Lake with the Great Salt Lake
(p. 502). — 706 M. Bingham Junction (4365 ft.).
In Bingham Canyon are several important copper-mines, often visited
from Salt Lake City and producing from 1000 to 6000 tons of ore per day.
As we approach Salt Lake City we have a view to the right of
the Tabernacle and Temple.
716 M. Salt Lake City (4390 ft.), see p. 499.
Beyond Salt Lake City the train runs to the N., with Grea^ Salt
Lake generally in sight to the left. To the right rise the "Wahsatch
Mts. In the lake are the large and mountainous Antelope Island and
(farther on) Fremont Island. 724 M. Wood's Cross ,• 735 M. Kays-
ville; 735 M. Layton; 746 M. Roy.
753 M. Ogden (4300 ft.), see p. 461.
Baedbkek's United States. 4th Edit. 32
498 Route 77. LEADYILLE. From Denver
b. Vil. Colorado Midland Railway.
705 M. Railway in 26-28 hrs. (fare $ 18 ; sleeper $ 6). Through-carriages
to San Francisco, This line (Tike's Peak Route') also traverses much
line scenery.
From Denver to (74 M.) Colorado Springs the train uses the
tracks of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway (see p. 476),
practically coinciding with that above described. From Colorado
Springs the line runs towards the W. 78 M. Colorado City, see
p. 489; 81 M. Manitou, see p. 490. 82 M. Manitou Iron Springs
(6538 ft.}, the starting-point of the Pike's Peak Railway (p. 491).
Beyond Manitou the train ascends throngh the beautiful *TJte Pass,
on the shoulder of Pike's Peak (p. 491), so called because formerly
the regular route of the Ute Indians in passing across the moun-
tains to the plains. 86 M. Cascade Canyon (7406ft. ; Ramona, $3;
Rail. Restaurant), the station for Cascade (comp. p. 491) ; 87 M. Vie
Park (7558 ft. ; Ute Hotel); 90 M. Green Mountain Falls (7728ft.;
Hotel, $2-3); 95 M. Woodland Park (8485 ft. ; hotel), at the head
of the Ute Pass (splendid view of Pike's Peak). From (100 M.)
Manitou Park Station (8465 ft.) a four-horse coach runs to (7 M.)
^•'Manitou Park (7500 ft.). On leaving the Ute Pass we cross the
(102 M.) Hayden Divide (9180 ft.), part of the Continental watershed.
From Divide the Midland Terminal Railway runs towards the S. to (30 M.)
Cripple Creek (p. 491; iV2 hr. ; through-cars from Denver in 6-7 hrs.), pass-
ing (14 M.) Gillelt, (25 M.) Victor (p. 491), and (28 M.) Anaconda, all important
mining points.
From Divide we descend, passing (111 M.) Florissant (8180 ft.),
to the fine *Oranite or Eleven Mile Canyon, through which rushes the
South Platte River. We are now traversing South Park (p. 475).
123 M. Howbert (8520 ft); 133 M. Spinney (8640 ft.); 144 M.
Hartsel Hot Springs (8890 ft; Hotel, $2-21/2), one of the chief re-
sorts in South Park. After crossing the Trout Creek Pass (9345 ft)
we descend to (176 M.) Buena Vista (p. 474), in the valley of the
Arkansas. 194 M. (?ranife (8930 ft); 201 M. S^ow den (9320 ft).
213 M. Leadville (10,100 ft; *Vendome, $3-4; Delaware,
R. from $1; Rail. Restaurant), one of the highest cities and most
celebrated mining centres in the world, is finely situated amid
towering mountains. Pop. (1900) 12,455. It is especially interesting
in all points connected with mines and miners.
Leadville was founded in 1859 un.der the name of California Oulch and
was for several years one of the richest gold-washing camps in Colorado.
In 1876 the great carhonate beds of silver were discovered, and the popu-
lation rose for a time to 30,000. The annual yield of silver in the Leadville
mines .amounts to $ 15,000,000, and its gold-mining has also again become
profitable. The total yield of its mines has been over $ 850,000,000.
Among the favourite excursions from Leadville are those to the Soda
Springs on Mt. Massive (p. 495), 5 M. to the W. (reached by a fine boule-
vard), and to the Twin Lakes (p. 475), 14 M. to the S. — From Leadville
to Denver, etc., by the Denver & Rio Grande R. R., see R. 77a.
Beyond Leadville the train ascends rapidly towards the ridge of
the Saguache Mts., passing the 'Continental Divide' by the (226 M.)
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to Ogden. SALT LAKE CITY. 77. Route. 499
Busk TwnneZ (10,790 ft.)l)elow tie flagrerman Pass (11, 5 30 ft). Itthen
descends rapidly, past *HeU Gate. — From (265 M.) Basalt (6595 ft. ;
Rail. Restaurant) a brancli-llne runs to (18 M.) Aspen (comp. p. 495).
Aspen (7950 ft. ; Jerome^ R. from $ 1), finely situated in the heart of the
Rockies, is a mining town with 3300 inhabitants. Silver and lead are the
chief sources of its wealth, but gold is also found in the vicinity.
We continue to descend along tlie Boaring Fork. — 289 M.
Glenwood Springs (5760 ft. ; ^Colorado, with well-kept grounds,
$4-5; Hotel Glenwood, $21/2-31/2 5 I^endric¥s Cottages, R. 75 c.),.
at the junction of the Roaring Fork and the Grand River, has come
into piominence on account of its beautiful situation and hot salt
mineral springs. The springs, rising on both sides of the Grand
River, have a temperature of 120-140° Fahr., are highly mineralized,
and are beneficial in rheumatism, gout, and most diseases of the blood
and skin. The excellent bathing arrangements include a swimming
basin, 640 ft. long and 110 ft. wide (temp. 95°). A natural Turkish
bath may be enjoyed in one of the Vapour Caves (105-110°). From
Glenwood a branch-line leads to (41 M.) Aspen (see above).
301 M. Newcastle; 315 M. Rifle (5550 ft.) ; 332 M. Grand Valley;
345 M. De Beque. At (376 M.) Grand Junction (p. 497) we pass
on to the lines of the Rio Grande Western Railway; and the journey
hence to (670 M.) Salt Lake City and (705 M.) Ogden is the same
as that described in R. 77a.
Salt Lake City. — Railway stations. Denver d: Rio Grande (PI. A, 2),
cor. of Second South and Fifth West Sts. ; Oregon Short Line (PI. A, 2), South
Temple St., also used by the San Pedro, Los Angeles, & Salt Lake R. R.
(see R. 78) ; Salt Lake <Sc Ogden (PI. A, B, 2), Third West St.
Hotels. *Kntjtsfokd (PI. a ; C, 2, 3), cor. of Third South and State
Sts., from $4, R. from $11/2; Kenyon (Pl.b; C, 2), cor. Main and Second
South Sts., from $21/2, R. from $1; New Wilson (PI. c; C, 2), Second
South St., R. from $ 1 5 Cdllen (PI. d ; B, 2), Second South St., R. from $ 1 ;
Gband Pacific (PI. f; A, 2), cor. S. Temple and Third West Sts.
Tramways (electric) traverse the principal streets (frae 5 c). — The
'Seeing Salt Lake City' Observation Cars (comp. p. 19) afford a complete
and speedy tour of the town (2 hrs.). They start twice daily (10 a.m. and
1.30 p.m.; fare 50 c.) from the corner of Second South and Main Streets,
stopping at the chief hotels to pick up passengers.
Theatres. Salt LaJce Theatre (PI. C, 2), cor. of State and First South
Sts. ; Grand Theatre (PI. C, 2), Second South St. ; Salt Palace (PI. C, 4), used
for dramatic, musical, and other performances.
Post Office in the Federal Building (PI. B, 3).
Streets. Salt Lake City is laid out on a rectangular plan, and its streets
are named and numbered in such a way that it is easy to find any given
point. The centre of the city is Temple Squaee or Block (PI. B, 1, 2),
the streets enclosing which are named North Temple, West Temple, South
Temple^ and East Temple Streets. The streets to the N". of N. Temple St.
are known as 1st North, 2nd North, and so on; those to the W. of W.
Temple St. as ist W., 2nd W., etc.; those to the S. of S. Temple St. as
IstS., etc.; those to the E. of E. Temple St. as 1st E., etc. Each block is
i/s M. long. The E. and W. streets to the N. of Temple Square are now
called 'Avenues'. First East St. was recently renamed State St. Popularly,
32*
500 Route 77. SALT LAKE CITY. History.
East Temple St. is known as Main St. and South Temple St. as Brigham St.
On the bench in the N.E. part of the city the blocks are smaller, and tiie
streets narrower and named difl'erently.
Salt Lake City (4390 ft), the headquarters of the Church of
Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints or ^Mormons'* and the capital of the
state of Utah, is admirably situated in a spacious upland yalley,
encircled hy mountains, which approach the city closely on the N.
and E. (Wahsatch Range), while they are 20 M. distant to the S.
and 18 M. distant to the S."W (Oquirrh Range). Great Salt Lake
'(p. 502) lies 12 M. to the N.W. The city is regularly laid out
and the streets are wide and shaded with trees. Each house in
the residence-quarters stands in its own garden, the general eifect
heing cool and pleasant. In 1900 the population was 53,531 (now
prohably 100,000).
Salt Lake City was founded in 1847 by the Mormons, under Brigham
Young (p. 501), who had been driven from Nauvoo (111.; see p. 439) the
previous. ye ar^ and had made a long and perilous journey across the In-
dian-haunted plains. The district was then a barren and unpromising
desert, but the industrious Mormons set to work at once to plough and
plant and began that system of irrigation which has drawn out the latent
capabilities of the soil and made the Utah valleys among the most produc-
tive regions in the country. The Territory of Utah was organized in 1850,
with Brigham Young (d. 1877) as the first governor. A copious stream of
Mormon immigrants soon set in from Europe; and, in spite of numerous
collisions with the U. S. Government on the question of polygamy, the
history of the city and territory has been one of steady progress and devel-
opment. Of late years the proportion of 'Gentile' (i.e. Non-Mormon) in-
habitants in Salt Lake City has increased very rapidly and introduced many
new features and problems into the situation. Polygamy has been declared
illegal by the U. S. Courts and has been discontinued. In 1896 Utah was
admitted to statehood.
Salt Lake City has become a very important mining centre, and enor-
mous quantities of gold, silver, copper, zinc, and iron are treated in its
smelters. Comp. pp. 497, 503.
t 'Early in 1820, at Manchester (S. Y.), Joseph Smith, then fourteen years
old, became interested in a religious revival but was puzzled by the conflict-
ing doctrines taught. He asked of God in prayer, which sect was right.
In answer he saw a vision of God the father and his son Jesus Christ, and
was told that all the sects were wrong. In subsequent visions he learned
that he was to be the instrument in restoring the Gospel and the Holy
Priesthood of the Son of God to men, and in establishing the Church and
Bangdom of God upon the earth, never more to be overthrown; also where
he would find the inspired history of the aborigines of America engraved
in ancient characters on metal plates. This he afterwards translated into
English, by the power of God, and published in 1830, as the Book of
Mormon. It has been translated and published in Danish, French, German,
Italian, Welsh, Swedish, Spanish, Dutch, Hawaiian, Samoan, and Maori, and
translated into Hindostanee, Turkish, and Hebrew. On May 15th, 1829, John
the Baptist appeared to Joseph Smith and Oliver Cowdeiy, laid his hands on
them, and conferred upon them the Aaronic or Lesser Priesthood. The same
year the apostles Peter, James, and John appeared to them and conferred
upon them the Apostleship of the Melchisedek or Higher Priesthood.
+ This statement of the origin and doctrines of Mormonism was drawn
up for Baedeker''s United States in the office of the President of the Church
of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.
The original MS. of the Book of Mormon preserved in a vault at
the office of the 'Saints Herald\
Tabernacle. SALT LAKE CITY. 77. Route. 501
'The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints was organized with
six members, on April 6th, 1830, at Fayette {IS. Y.), by Joseph Smith, by
appointment and instruction from God. Twelve apostles, also seventies,
high priests, elders, bishops, priests, teachers, and deacons, have been since
ordained, now numbering many thousands. They have preached the Gospel
to many nations, and hundreds of thousands of believers have been baptized.
Joseph F. Smithy a nephew of the original founder, is the present president
of the Church, with John R. Winder and Anthon H. Lund as his counsellors,
the three constituting the First Presidency.
'Driven from Missouri and Illinois, with their prophet and president,
Joseph Smith, and his brother Hyrum murdered in Carthage jail (111.) on
June 27th, 1844, by an armed mob, the Latter-day Saints were led by
Brigham Young to Salt Lake in i847, spreading since into the regions
about. They now number over 346,000 and have built six Temples to
the Lord, the most imposing of which is at Salt Lake City.
'The Latter-Day Saints believe in God the Father; his son Jesus Christ
and his atonement; the Holy Ghost; the Gospel, the first principles being
faith, repentance, baptism by immersion for remission of sins, and the laying
on of hands for imparting the Holy Ghost; the resurrection of the dead,
and the eternal judgment; the necessity of divine authority, by calling
and ordination, to preach the Gospel and administer its ordinances: apostles,
prophets, seventies, high priests, elders, bishops, priests, teachers, and deacons,
for the work of the ministry; revelation from God; the Bible, Book of
Mormon, and other inspired books; the gathering of Israel and the building
up of Zion and Jerusalem ; the sacredness and eternity of marriage ; and the
personal reign of Christ upon the earth as King of Kings and Lord of Lords.
Temple Block (PI. B, 1, 2), the Sacred Sqnare ol the Mormons,
lies near the centre of the city and forms the chief ohject of interest
to strangers. It is 10 acres in area, is surrounded hy a high adohe
wall, and contains the Tabernacle, the Temple, the Assembly Hall,
and the Bureau of Information. Yisitors are admitted from 8 to 5.
The Bureau of Information^ near the S. gate of the grounds, provides
guides (gratis) for the Tabernacle and other points of interest.
The *Tabernacle (PLB, 2), built in 1864-67, is a huge and ex-
traordinary structure , in the shape of an oval or ellipse , 250 ft.
long, 150 ft. wide, and 70 ft. high. It is surmounted by a wooden
roof with iron shingles, resembling the shell of a turtle or the in-
verted hull of a ship, supported by 44 sandstone pillars.
The Interior, presenting one of the largest unsupported arches in the
world, has seats for over 8000 people and can accommodate about 12,000.
Amorphous though it be, there is something imposing in its size and
proportions, while it ia well adapted for speaking and hearing. The build-
ing is surrounded by a gallery, except at the W. end, where there are
a platform for speakers, seats for the choir and others, and an immense
and fine organ. Public religious services are held in the Tabernacle every
Sunday at 2 p.m., and it is also used for lectures, sacred concerts, and other
meetings. It is open to visitors daily, 8-5.
A little to the E. of the Tabernacle is the *Temple (PI. B, 2],
a large and handsome building of granite, erected ia 1853-93, at a
cost of over $4,000,000. It is 186 ft. long from E. to W. and
99 ft. wide. At each end are three pointed towers, the loftiest of
which, in the centre of the E. or principal facade, is 210 ft. high
and is surmounted by a colossal gilded figure (I21/2 ft- high) of the
Angel Moroni (by C. E. Ballin).
The Interior (not accessible to strangers) is elaborately fitted up and
artistically adorned. The Temple is used for the administration of
ordinances, including marriage (for this world and the next, or for eternity
502 Route 77. SALT LAKE CITY. Great Salt Lake.
alone), baptism for the dead, prayer, theological lectures, preaching,
teaching, ordinations, etc.
The Assembly HaU (PL B, 2), to the S. of the Tabernacle, is
a granite building with accommodation for 3000 people, intended
for divine service. — The famous Endowment House, which stood
attheN.W. corner of the Temple Enclosure, has been pulled down.
At the comer of North Temple and Main Sts. stands the Latter-
Day Saints University (PI. C, 1), attended by over 1000 students.
At the S.E. corner of Temple Square is the Pioneer Monument, sur-
mounted by a copper Statue of Brigham Young (p. 501), which was
unveiled in 1897 (50 years after the arrival of the firsthand of pioneers).
"We now follow South Temple Street towards the E. To the right
is the Beseret News Block (PI. B, 2), a large brown-stone building
where the oldest newspaper to the W. of the Missouri is published.
To the left are the Tithing Office and Tithing Storehouse (PI. C, 2),
where the Mormons pay their tithes in kind. A little farther on, also
to the left, axe the Lion House (PI. C, 2 ; with a lion over the entrance),
one of the residences of Brigham Young; the Office of the President
of the Mormon Church; and the Beehive House (PI. C, 2; surmounted
by a beehive, Utah's emblem), another of Brigham Young's houses.
On the opposite side of the street (right) are the huge shoe-factory
and warehouse of Zions Cooperative Mercantile Institution (PI. C, 2) ;
the office of the ^Juvenile Instructor ; the office of the Historian
of the Mormon Church; and the Gardo House (PI. C, 2), or Amelia
Palace, opposite the Beehive House.
A little farther to the N.E. , through the Eagle Gate, is Brigham
Young's Grave (PI. C, 2), surrounded by an ornamental iron railing.
•About Vz M. to the N. of this point is Prospect Hill (PI. C, 1), with a
tower commanding an excellent *View of the city, its environs, and Salt
Lake. Fort Douglas (see below) is seen to the E. — A still more extensive
view is obtained from Ensign Peak (5050 ft.), which rises a little farther
to the X. and may be ascended nearly all the way by carriage. To the l!f.
lies City Creek Canyon, with some pretty scenery.
The imposing City and County Building is in "Washington Sq.
(PL C, 3), and the Federal Building (PL B. 3) is in Main St., between
Third and Fourth South Sts. A new Capitol is in contemplation in
Capitol Grounds (PL C,l), near Prospect Hill (see above). Among the
educational establishments are fheUtah StateVniversity(S30 students),
to the E. of the city, near Fort Douglas, and the High School(J^\. B, 1),
in Union Sq. The Roman Catholic Cathedral (PL 0, 2) and several
of the other Churches are also notable buildings. The Exposition
Grounds, where annual fairs are held, are in Agricultural Park, near
the banks of the Jordan (beyond PL A, 1).
On a plateau (500 ft.), 3 M. to the E. of the centre of the city, is
Fort Douglas (comp. Pi. F, 1-4), a U. S. military post, reached by electric
tramway (fare 5 c). Fine views from the post and from the road to it.
Parade and bnnd-concert every afternoon.
-Great Salt Lake, the nearest point of which is 12 M. to the N.W. of
Salt Lake City, is 80 M. long and 30 M. wide. Three small rivers flow
nto it, but it has no outlet and gets rid of its superfluous water by
VIRGIN RIVER. 78. Route, 503
evaporation. In early geological times it was a fresh-water lake ca. 1200 ft.
in depth, with an outlet to the Pacific through the Snake River. Its water,
which is extraordinarily buoyant, contains about 25 per cent of pure salt
(ocean 3-4 p. c; Dead Sea 24 p.c.)- A bathe in it is very exhilarating, but
bathers should be careful not to get any of the brine into their mouth or
eyes. The lake contains several islands, the largest of which are Antelope
and Stansbury. It is very shallow in places, and varies in depth and
extent periodically. The tints of the water, especially at sunset, are often
very beautiful. There is said to be a submarine volcano in the arm of the
lake near Ogden (p. 461). The lake may be conveniently visited by taking
the Salt Lake d: Los Angeles R. R. to (14 M.) Saltair, a well-equipped
bathing resort with a comfortable hotel.
The Warm Sulphur Springs, just to the N. of the city, and BeclCs Hot
Springs, 2 M. farther on, are frequented for their medicimal qualities.
Among the chief points of resort among the Wahsatch Mts. are the Big
CottoniDood Canyon (Brighton's Hotel), a day's drive from the city; the Little
Cottonwood Canyon; the Weher and Ogden Canyons, to the N. (p. 461); and the
American Fork and Provo Canyons, to the E. of Utah Valley, to the S.
From Salt Lake City the Western Pacific Railway is being built towards
San Francisco. — For the new 'Moffat Road'' from Denver, see p. 475.
78. From Salt Lake City to Los Angeles.
781 M. San Pedro, Los Angeles, & Salt Lake Raileoad in 25-32 hrs-
(fare S 80; sleeper $ 5.50). This new railway opens up a good mining region
and materially shortens the journey from the East to Los Angeles.
Tlie train starts from tlie Oregon Short Line Station (p. 499) and
runs towards tte S. 15 M. Garfield and (17 M.) Smelter, both with
large smelting works ; 79 M. Boulter. From (85 M.) Tintic Junction,
in the Ophir and Tintic mining district, a branch- line runs to (50 M.)
Lehi. At (118 M.) Lynn Junction we unite with the line coming
from Salt Lake City via Lehi Junction. From (221^/2 M.) Milford a
branch-line runs to (24 M.) Newhouse (a model mining-camp). 257 M.
Lund and (289 M.) Modena are the usual starting-points for a visit
to the upper valley of the Virgin River f, in S."W. Utah.
The stages (from Lund, 100 M., daily; from Modena, 65 M., daily)
run across the lower end of the Escalante Desert to St. George (ca. 2800 ft. ;
St. George Ho., well spoken of), a small town of about 2500 inhab., with
a mild and dry climate and more days of sunshine than any other spot
in the United States. It is completely surrounded by high cliffs and
mountains, the highest being the Pine Valley Range (ca. 10,000 ft.). Trav-
ellers who do not wish to be tied to the settlements should hire a con-
veyance and camp -outfit here. The valley contains some of the most
extraordinary cliff and canyon scenery in the West, rivalling the Yosemite
and the Grand Canyon. About 20 M. to the N.E. of St. George lies Toker-
ville (Stapley Ho.), and the entire stretch of river above this point is a
wonderland of magnificent cliffs. There are two branches, called by the
Indians Paroonuweap and Mukoontoweap. The latter is the remarkable valley
named Little Zion by the Mormons, who have a settlement, Springdale, near
its foot. The dominating note is the -Great Temple Butte (7500 ft.; 4000 ft.
above the river), a stupendous vertical mountain of bare rock, which rises
at the junction of the two branches. The colours of this rock are as remark-
able as the Titanic form; the red of the base merges into yellowish white
at the top, with a supreme cap, on the plateau-like summit, of a dark red.
+ The data for this account of the Virgin River VaUey were supplied
by Mr. F. S. Dellenbaugh, who visited it in 1903.
504 Route 79. MARYSVILLE. From San Francisco
The colours vary with the light also. Throughout the region there is an
extravagant play of colour, with very little green. Sheer precipices compose
the sides of the Great Temple, which has never been surmounted. Every-
where are more or less vertical cliffs of startling proportions. There are no
bridges over the river, which, however, is easily crossed, except in time of
flood. Along this portion lie the villages of Virgin, Grafton, Rockville^ and
Springdale (p. 503), where accommodation may be obtained in small inns.
Both branches of the river are accessible by waggon or on horseback for a
considerable distance above the settlements. When the 'Narrows' of the
Mukoontoweap are reached, farther progress is impossible, except on foot, as
the walls approach to within 12-15 ft. of each other, and the canyon is more
than 1500 ft. deep, the narrowest deep canyon in the country. The similar
narrows of the Paroonuweap branch are harder to reach, as there is a dense
growth of underbrush for several mUes.
At (290 M.) Crestline we eiiteT Nevada (p. 462). — 324 M. Caliente
(4405 ft), an oasis in the Nevada desert, is the junction of a short
"branch-line to Pioche. We here change from 'Mountain' to 'Pacific'
time (comp. p. xiv). — 354 M. Leith. From (447 M.) Las Vegas
the Las Vegas & Tonopah Railroad runs to (124 M.) Rhyolite (p. 463)
and (197 M.) Goldfield (p. 463). — 480 M. Jean. At. (494 M.)
Calada we enter California (p. 463). 514 M. Leastalk is the junction
of branch -lines to Ivanpah and Ooffs (p. 484). 579 M. Crucero.
At (623 M.) Daggett we join the Santa Fe' R. R., following its
tracks to (713 M.) San Bernardino and (716 M.) Colton (comp.
pp. 484, 485). Near (724 M.) Riverside (p. 486) we cross the Santa
Ana River hy a great concrete viaduct, 1000 ft. long. 744 M. Ontario
(p. 486); 750 M. Pomona (p. 486).
781 M. Los Angeles, see p. 531.
From Los Angeles the line goes on to its ocean terminus at (27 M.)
San Pedro (comp. p. 534).
79. From San Francisco to Portland.
772 M. Southern Pacific Rail wax ('Shasta Route') in 34-36 hrs. (fare $ 20 ;
sleeper § 5). This line traverses some fine scenery and affords good views of
ML Shasta (p. 505); some of the engineering difficulties were very great.
Steamers of the Oregon E. R. & Navigation Co. leave San Francisco
every 5 days for Portland (2 days; fare § 16, incl. berth and meals). The
voyage is a pleasant one and usually calm in summer.
From San Francisco to (90 M.) Sacramento and (108 M.) Rose-
ville Junction, see pp. 466-464. Our line here diverges to the left
from that to Ogden and runs to the N., ascending the vaUey of the
Sacramento, which flows at some distance to the left. 142 M. Marys-
ville (65 ft.), a city of 3497 inhab., at the confluence of the Feather
and Yuha Rivers. To the left rise t^ie Marysville Buttes (1800-2100 ft.).
At (163 M.) Biggs (95 ft.) we cross the Feather River. 186 M.
Chico (190 ft.; 2640 inhab.; cars to Sacramento, see p. 465). A fine
fruit-growing country is traversed. Near (213 M.) Tehama (220 ft.)
we cross the Sacramento. From (225 M.) Red Bluff a stage runs
daily to Tuscan Mineral Springs (Hotel, from $2), 9 M. to the E.
Beyond (260 M.) Redding (560 ft.), near the head of the Lower
Sacramento Yalley, we enter upon a stretch of very picturesque scenery
to Portland. MT. SHASTA. 79. Route. 505
(observation- car), where the train crosses the winding Sacramento
18 times and threads 12 or more tunnels in 80 M. At (269 M.) Copley
(600 ft.) the Indians spear salmon. Between (277 M.) Kennet (665 ft.)
and (282 M.) Morley (720 ft.) the Sacramento is joined by the Pitt
River. To the right rise the McCloud Mts. The McCloud River, which
flows into the Pitt River, is one of the finest trout-streams in California.
298 M. Delta (1135 ft.), 302 M. Lamoine, and (311 M.) Sims are all
good fishing-stations. To the left, near (318 M. ) Castle Rock (2085 ft. ;
Hotel, $ 11/2-^)? rise the imposing *Castle Crags, towering to a height
of 4000 ft. above the river. Near (323 M.) Dunsmuir (2285 ft.) we
obtain our first view of the huge snow-clad dome of Mt. Shasta (in
front, to the right). 325 M. Upper Soda Springs (2360 ft.; Hotel,
$ 2) ; 327 M. Shasta Springs (Hotel), with the pretty Mossbrae Falls.
A little farther on we cross the Sacramento for the last time and ascend
rapidly, round the *Great Bend, to (333 M.) Mott (3155 ft.). — At
(338 M.) /Sisson (3550 ft. ; *Sisson's Tavern, $21/2), in Strawberry
Valley, we enjoy a grand, unimpeded view of Mt. Shasta. To the left
rise the Scott Mts. [Mt. Eddy, 9150 ft.).
The top of *Mt. Shasta (14,380 ft.) is 12 M. from Sisson and may he
ascended thence (there and back) in 30-36 hrs. (guides, horses, etc., at
Sisson's Tavern; total expense $ 15-20 each). The night is spent at Sisson's
Camp (9000 ft.), just above the timber-line. There is a Geodetic Monument
on the main peak. Mt. Shasta is a huge extinct volcano, and its volcanic
character is clearly discernible in the Crater or W. Peak (12,900 ft.), where
there is a crater ^4 M. in diameter and 2500 ft. deep. Hot springs and
solfataric action are also visible near the top of the main peak. The
*View from the summit is very extensive.
From Sisson a branch-line runs to (ISM.) McCloud (Hotel, from $11/2)
and (37 M.) Bartle.
At (345 M.) Black Butte Summit (3905 ft.) the train reaches the
summit of the pass across the N. part of the Sierra Nevada and begins
its descent. To the right we obtain views of the five distinct cones of
Muir's Peak or Black Butte (6500 ft.). The trees through which we run
include the sugar pine {Pinus Lambertiana; with cones 12-18 inches
long), the yellow pine (P. ponderosa), the contorted pine (P. contorta)^
the cembra pine (P. flexilis), and the nut pine (P. Sabiniana; cones
12 inches long and 6 inches thick). — 350 M. Weed.
From Weed a branch-line, now open to (63 M.) Dorris, is being pushed
forward to (ca. 83 M.) Klamath Falls (see below), between the Upper and
Lower Klamath Lakes, which will then be the nearest station to (ca. 60 M.)
Crater Lake (p. 506). The distance will be covered half by steamer on
Upper Klamath Lake and half by stage or automobile.
355 M. Edgewood (2950 ft.) commands a good retrospect o-f
Mt. Shasta. We now ascend the Shasta Valley, with the Shasta River
at some distance to the right. From r377 M.) Montague (2540 ft.)
a branch-line runs to (8 M.) Yreka. The Siskiyou Mts. (7660 ft.) are
now visible to the left. — 390 M. Thrall.
From Thkall to Pokegama. 24 M., railway in 2 hrs. — From (12 M.)
Klamath Springs Station, on this line, stages (fare S 21/2) ply to (8 M.) Klamath
Eat Springs (2700 ft.; Hotel, $ 2-2V2), at the junction of the Klamath River
and Shovel Creek, a beautifully situated health and pleasure resort, with
mineral springs and mud baths (efficacious in rheumatism, etc.).
506 Route 79. CRATER LAKE. From San Francisco
Near (395 M.) Homhrodk (2150 ft.) we cross the Klamath River
and begin to ascend the Siskiyon Mts. (gradient 4:100). Beyond
(404 M.) Cole (2860 ft.) we enter Oregon ('Beaver State'). The
line passes through a long tnnnel just before reaching the summit at
(414 M.) Siskiyou (4130 ft.). To the right is Pilot Rock (6430 ft.),
the S. outpost of the Cascade Mts. (p. 444). — The train now descends
rapidly, through tunnels and around curves, into Rogue River Valley.
— 431 M. Ashland (1870 ft.; 2634 inhab.; Oregon Hotel, $2).
Mt. McLaughlin (9760 ft. ) rises to the right. — 443 M. Med ford
(1375 ft.) is the nearest station to (85 M) the curious Crater Lake.
By previous arrangement an automobile may be had from Medford to
the lake, going one day and returning the next, for $ 100 for 1-4 pers.
($ 10 each for each extra day at the lake: meals and lodging extra). There
are two camps near the lake (5 3). Launch on the lake S5 per hour.
Eow-boats also for hire. — 'Crater Lake (6177 ft.) lies on the summit of
the Cascade Mts,, occupying the abyss formed by the subsidence of an
extinct volcano of the size and height of Shasta. It is about 5 M. in
diameter. Its most peculiar feature is the perpendicular enclosing wall
of igneous rock, 500-2000 ft. high. There is no visible affluent or outflow,
but the water is fresh and sweet and of a phenomenally clear ultramarine
hue. The lake has now been stocked and affords excellent fishing. It is
2000 ft. deep. '■'Wizard Island, on the W. side of the lake, 845 ft. high, is an
extinct volcanic cone and is a curious instance of a crater within a crater.
The road to the lake is fair, and the descent to the water's edge may be
made in about 1/2 hr. The district containing this lake has been set apart
as the Crater Lake National Park-
Beyond Medford, to the right, stands Talle Rock. 475 M. Grant's
Pass (935 ft.) ; 500 M. Glendale (1415 ft. ; Hatch, $ 2), a good place
to break the journey for those who do not wish to travel by night;
552 M. Myrtle Creek (615 ft.) ; 574 M. Roseburg (465 ft. ; 1690 inhab.),
on the TJmpqua River. To the right is Diamond Peak (8807 ft.), and
farther on, on the same side, are the Three Sisters (8500 ft.). From
(610 M.) Drain a new branch-line runs to Marshfield, on Coos Bay.
Beyond (648 M.) Eugene (425 ft.), the seat of the University of
Oregon (735 students), we descend the pretty and well-wooded valley
of the Willamette (left). 666 M. Earrislurg (310 ft.). — 692 M.
Albany (215 ft.) is the junction of a line to (12 M.) Corvallis and
(83 M.) Taquina, on Taquina Bay (p. 508). — 719 M. Salem
(165 ft.; Willamette Hotel, $2-3), the capital of Oregon, a small city
with 10,422 inhab., the State Capitol, and various other State buildings
and institutions. — 756 M. Oregon City (75 ft.), with 3494 inhab.,
possesses a fine water-power supplied by the Falls of the Willamette
(40 ft.). — 771 M. East Portland (30 ft.). We cross the Willamette.
772 M. Portland f^The Portland, from $3, R. from $1; The
Oregon, The Eaton, R. from $ 1; Imperial, R. $ 1-2; Perkins, R. from
$ 1 ; Tlie Lenox, R. from $ 1 ; Grand Central; Brit. Consul, Mr. James
Laidlaw), the business capital of the Pacific North-West, is advantage-
ously situated on the Willamette, 6 M. above its confluence with the
Columbia. Pop. (1900) 90,426, including East Portland and Albina,
now incorporated with the city (prob. now double). These figures
include about 3000 Chinese. Its position at the head of deep-sea
to Portland, PORTLAND. 79. Route. 507
navigation on the Colnmbia and Willamette and its extensive railway
connections with the N., E., and S. have made Portland an important
commercial centre, and it ranks among the wealthiest cities of its
size in the country.
Portland was first settled in 1843, and its growth since then has been
rapid and uninterrupted. The annual value of its exports now amounts to
about,$ 15,000,000 (3,000,000?.), the chief articles being wheat, lumber, flour,
wool, and fish (salmon, etc.). About 640,000,000 ft. of lumber were cut
here in 1906. It manufactures pig iron, woollen goods, fiour, furniture, beer,
cordage, and other goods to the annual value of $ 35,000,000 (7,000,000 1.).
It has steamship lines to San Francisco and other ports on the Pacific
Coast Puget Sound, British Columbia, Alaska, China, and Japan, while its
sailing vessels ply to Great Britain, China, South America, and "New York. —
The annual rainfall at Portland is 46 inches. — Portland calls itself the
'Rose City', and a 'Rose Festival' is held here in the first week of June.
^Seeing Portland'' Observation Cars, starting at the corner of Second
and Washington Sts., visit the chief sights twice daily (fare 50 c).
The Union Railway Station, at the corner of N. 6th and Irv-
ing Sts., is a roomy and handsome hnilding, with a tall clock-tower.
About 3/4 M. to the S. of it, in the block enclosed by Jefferson, Ma-
dison, 4th, and 5th Sts., is the Citt Hall, containing the Oregon
Historical Society's Museum and the Hawkins Museum of Natural
History. Other important edifices in the business part of the city are
the Chamber of Commerce (cor. 3rd and Stark Sts. ; with an Intelligence
Bureau for strangers), the Post Office (cor. Morrison and 5th Sts.),
the Custom House (11th and Everett Sts.), the Court House (cor.
Main and 4th Sts.), the tall Wells Fargo Co's Building (cor. 6th and
Oak Sts."), the Commercial Club Building (cor. 5th and Oak Sts.), the
Corbett Building (cor. Morrison and 5th Sts.), the Masonic Temple
(cor. Park and Yamhill Sts.), the Daily Oregonian Office (cor. of
6th and Alder Sts.), and the Marquam Block (Morrison and 6th Sts.).
The Portland Library, Stark and 7th Sts., is a tasteful Romanesque
building. The Art Museum (cor. 5th and Taylor Sts.), erected by
the Portland Art Association in 1905, has a good collection of casts
and photographs, and holds frequent loan exhibitions. The most
notable churches are the Presbyterian Church (cor. of Alder & 12th Sts.),
the White Temple (Baptist ; cor. of Taylor & 12th Sts.), and the new
Episcopal Cathedral (cor. of 19th & Everett Sts.).
The Willamette, which is lined with docks, warehouses, and saw-
mills, is spanned by four bridges connecting the suburbs to the E.
with the business and old residential districts to the W. of the river.
The finest residences are on the King's Hill^ Couch Addition, Portland
Heights, and Willamette Heights on the W. side, and in Hawthorn
Avenue and Irvington on the E. side. At the foot of Willamette
Heights is the site of the Centennial Exposition of 1905, held to
commemorate the crossing of the Continent by Lewis and Clark
in 1805. Here still stands the Forestry Building, made of logs
from 2 to 6 ft. in diameter, containing in all over 1,000,000 ft. of
lumber. The upper part of King's Hill is occupied by the City Park,
easily accessible by the Washington St. trolley-cars and well worth a
508 Route 79. PORTLAND. Excursions.
visit. It contains buffalo, bear, and deer. To the N.W. is tlie wilder
scenery of McClay Park, with a deep canyon and primitive forest,
through which passes the attractive Cornell Road. The Riverside Drive,
to the S. of the city, along the Willamette, is also picturesque.
The visitor to Portland will, however, best use his leisure by ascend-
ing the Portland Heights on the W. side of the city (easily reached
on foot or by tramway) for the sake of the magnificent *Mountain
View they command.
Mt. Hood (see below), 60 M. to the S.E., is the most prominent peak, but
tbe rounded dome of 3ft. St. Helens (p. 447; 50 M. to the N.), Mt. Adams
(p. 444), and Mt. Rainier (p. 446) are visible, and the view also includes
the Coasf Range and the valleys of the Columbia and Willamette. The best
reant for this view is Council Crest or Fairmount (1000 ft. above the city),
poiched by electric tramway in 20 minutes. Practically the same view may
be had froca the fine driveway called the Boulevard that now encircles the
hills a little below the top, about 800 ft. above the city.
Portland is the headquarters of the Meizamas , an Alpine Club (200
members) founded in 1894, which has done much to make the mountain-
scenery of the Pacific ]S^orth-West better known through its periodical the
Mazama and in other ways (annual dues $3).
Excursions from Portland.
The favourite excursion from Portland is the voyage up the *Columbia
River to (60 M.) the Cascades and to (110 M.) The Dalles (fare $ 1 ; return
fare $25 comp. pp. 468, 469; Or. R. E. & Nav. Co. Office, cor. of 3rd and
Washington Sts.), The traveller may take the train to Dalles, spend the
night there, and return next morning by the steamer (return- fare S 4). If the
trip is made only one way, the steamer should be preferred, as the scenery
is not seen to the best advantage from the train. The boats leave early
in the morning ; the local time-tables should be consulted in advance. On
the way we pass (18 M.) Vancouver (also reached by electric car in V2 hr.),
the military headquarters of the Department of the Columbia.
Steamers (office as above) also descend the Lower Columbia to (98 M.)
Astoria (ca. 5 hrs.; return-fare $21/2), affording a good view of the wide
estuary of a great river. A visit to a Salmon Cannery may be combined
with the trip. Astoria may also be reached by the Astoria & Columbia River
R.R. (100 M.). — Astoria (Occident Eotel,^ $2-3; Brit, vice-consul, Mr.
P. L. Cherry)., a small seaport with 8381 inhab., formerly famous for its
fur-trade, has 3 M. of wharves on the Columbia. A steamer plies hence
across the Columbia to (^4 hr.) Megler, whence a railway runs, via (14^2 M.)
Ilwaco (vsrith large canning factories), to the various resorts on Long Beach
(Breakers Hotel, etc.) in Washington, which extends for 23 IM. along the
Pacific (return-fare from Portland $ 4). To the S., 16 M. by railway, lies
Clatsop Beach or Seaside (hotels; return-fare from Portland $4), During
spring and early summer, excursions are run from Astoria to Sand Island,
at the m®uth of the Columbia, to witness the seining of the salmon.
The Willamette affords another pleasant trip, steamers plying regularly
to Oregon City (p. 506), Dayton, and Corvallis (p. 506).
*Mt. Hood (11,225 ft.) is conveniently ascended from Portland by taking
the train to (66 M.) Hood River (comp. p. 469 ; return-fare from Portland
to Cloud Cap Inn, $ 91/2).
Mt. St. Helens (a more or less active volcano), Mt. Adams, Mt. Jefferson,
and the Three Sisters may also be visited from Portland; but the trails are
rough, and camping out is necessary in each case.
Among other points of interest visited from Portland are the Multnomah
Falls (p. 470), Crater Lake (p. 506), and Yaquina (p. 506), Newport (Ocean
House, $ 2), and other places on Yaquina Bay (8 hrs. by train; return-fare $ 6).
From Portland to Tacoma (for Seattle, British Columbia, Alaska, etc.),
see pp. 447-446; to Omaha and the East, see E. 74.
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80. San Francisco.
Arrival, Railway Passengers from the N. , E., and S. leave tlie train
at Oakland (see p. 466) and reacli San Francisco at tlie Union Ferry Depot
(PI. G, 2), at the foot of Market St., where cabs (1-2 pers. $ 2, 3-4pers. $ 2V2),
hotel-omnibuses (50 c), and cable and electric cars (5 c.) meet the steamer. —
Those arriving by sea are met by similar conveyances. — The Southern
Pacific Railway Station (PI. G, 4), at the cor. of 3rd and Townsend Sts.,
is used by trains to and from Menlo Park, Santa Clara, Santa Cruz, San
Jose, Tres Pinos, Monterey, Paso Robles, Los Angeles, and other points in
the S. part of California (comp. p. 521). The temporary depot of the Ocean
Shore Railway, for trains to Half Moon Bay and Santa Cruz (comp. p. 521),
is at the cor. of 12th and Mission Sts. (PI. E, 5 ; permanent depot building
at the cor. of Market and 11th Sts., PI. E 4, 5).
Hotels. *Faikmont (PI. f, F2; 600 beds), a colossal structure, with
a fine outlook, covering with dependencies the square bounded by Clay,
Sacramento, Mason, and Powell Sts., E,. from $ 3; 'St. Feai^'Cis (PI, c, F 3;
650 beds). Union Square, R. from $ 2 ; Palace (PI. k ; G, 3), at the corner
of Market St. and Montgomery St. (rebuilding); Stewart, 353 Geary St,
(PI. D-F, 3), R. from $ 2 ; Bellevde (PI. 1 ; F, 3), cor. of Geary and Taylor Sts. ;
NoBMAUDiE (PI. n; E, 3), cor. of Sutter and Gough Sts,, R. from §2;
Gkanada, cor. of Sutter and Hyde Sts. (PL E, 3) ; Colonial, Stockton St.,
near Sutter St. (PL F, 3), R. from $ 2; Majestic (PL m; D, 3), Sutter and
Gough Sts,, R, from §2; Majestic Annex (PL n; D, 3), 1529 Sutter St.,
from $4; Jeffeeson (PL j ; E, 4), Turk and Gough Sts., facing Jefferson
Square, from $ 4, R. from $ 2; Savoy (PL a; E, 4), Van Ness Ave, and
Ellis St., R. from $1; Imperial (PL i; E, 4), 951 Eddy St., R. from $1V2;
St. James (PL b; E, 4), Van Ness Ave. and Fulton St., R, from $ 11/2;
Gkand Central (PL g; E, 4), Market, Polk, and Hayes Sts., R. from $ IV2;
Addubon, 928 Ellis St. (near Van Ness Ave.), R. from $ IV2. — Family Hotels
(special terms for prolonged stay). Dokchestee (PL d; D, E, 3), Sutter and
Gough Sts.; Atheeton, 1661 Octavia St.
Restaurants (the San Francisco restaurants are generally excellent,
but the prices, once so moderate, are now similar to those in the larger
Eastern cities). At the Fairmont, Si. Francis, Majestic, and other hotels
(see above) ; Taifs, 239 Post St. ; Thompson's, 1727 OTarrell St. ; Blanco's,
859 O'Farrell St. ; Marchand, 1424 McAllister St. ; Old Poodle Dog, 326 Bush St. ;
Jack's, 1025 Golden Gate Ave. ; Bismarck, 4th and Market Sts. ; The Peacock,
743 Market St. ; Mathias (Mexican), 525 Broadway ; La Madrilena (Spanish),
1031 Golden Gate Ave. ; Coppa's (ItaL), 423 Pine St. (other good Ital. restau
rants in Broadway, near Montgomery St.). — Places frequented by ladies
are the Woman's Exchange, 1563 Bush St.;. Swain's, Van Ness Ave., near
Sutter St,; The Golden Pheasant, 1222 Sutter St.; Puritan, 761 Market St. —
The Chinese Restaurants in Dupont St. (PL F, 2) are interesting.
Tramways. An excellent system of Electric and Cable Cars (fare 5c.)
traverses all the main thoroughfares and neutralizes the steepness of most
of the streets (comp. p. 511). An elaborate system of transfers makes it
possible to go from almost any point in the city to any other point for
a single fare. The stranger should visit one of the 'Cable Power Houses'
(e.g. at the cor. of Hyde and California Sts., PL E, 3) or the main 'Electric
Power House'' at North Beach (reached by the FiUmore St. cars). Permits
to view these houses may be obtained from the Engineers in charge.
Extensions of these lines to Sutro Heights, etc., see p. 516. — Observation
Cars (fare 50 c. ; comp. p. 19), starting at the Union Ferry Depot (p. 512)
several times daily, traverse 20 M. of streets, stopping at the Mission (p. 514),
the Affiliated Colleges (p. 514), and the Cliff House site (p. 516), and affording
a good general survey of the city.
Cabs. Per hour, 1-2 pers. $ IV2, 3-4 pers. $ 21/2, each addit. hr. $ 1, $ 2,
Heavy baggage is usually transported by the transfer companies. — Ferries,
plying from the foot of Market St., see p, 517.
Places of Amusement. Van I/'ess Theatre (PL E, 4), cor. Van Ness
Ave. and Grove St. ; American Theatre (PL F, 4), Market St., cor, 7th St. ;
510 Route 80. SAN FRANCISCO. Practical Notes.
Colonial Theatre (PL F, 3), Mason St.; Empire Theatre, Sutter St., between
Fillmore and Steiner Sts. (PI. D, 3) ; Alcazar Theatre (PI. C, D, 3), cor. Sutter
and Steiner Sts. (stock company); National Theatre, cor. Post and Steiner
Sts. (PI. D, 3); Novelty Theatre (PI. D, 4), cor. CFarrell and Steiner Sts.
(melodrama); OrpAewm (PL F, 3), O'Farrell St. (vaudeville); Princess Theatre,
Ellis St., between Fillmore and Steiner Sts. (PL D, 4); Central Theatre,
Market St., near 8tli St. (PL E, 4). The Chinese Theatres have not been rebuilt.
— Racecourses at Ingleside, to the S. of the Affiliated Colleges (p. 514), at
Emeryville, Oakland, and at Tanforan, in San Mateo County. These three
tracks, belonging to the California Jockey Club (racing season from Ifov. to
May), are for running horses only. There is a training track for trotters
at Alameda. — Golf Links at Ingleside and at Oakland. — Public Tennis
Courts in Golden Gate Park. — Sutro Heights, see p. 516.
Baths. Salt-water baths may be obtained at the Sutro Baths (p. 516) ; at the
James Lick Baths, 165 Tenth St. -,' and at the Harbour View Baths, on the beach
near Baker St. Turkish Baths at 11 Grant Ave., 222 Post St., and 415 Sutter St.
Clubs. Pacific Union, 1882 "Washington St.; Union League, cor. of
Sacramento and Franklin Sts. ; Bohemian, cor. of Post and Leavenworth
Sts. (literary men, artists, actors, etc.); Cosmos, 1534 Sutter St.; Olympic
(athletic), 624 Post St. ; University, 1817 California St. ; Press, 2016 Pine
St.; Family Club, 1800 Franklin St.; Athenian, 1988 Bush St.; Merchants\
Merchants' Exchange Bldg. ; California Camera Club, 2206 Steiner St. -, Fran-
cisco Verein (German), cor. of Post and Leavenworth Sts, ; Ligue Nationale
Frangaise, 135 Geary St. ; Cercle Frangais, 336 Post St. (these two French);
Concordia (Hebrew), N.E. cor. of Pacilic Ave. and Fillmore St.; (Sierra
Club, for exploring, protecting, and making accessible the scenery of the
Paeitic Coast (secretary, W.E. Colby, 302 Mills Bldg. ; sub. $ 3, entry-fee § 2). —
Women's Clubs. Century, 2015 Sutter St. ; California, 1750 Clay St. ; Corona,
2668 Mission St. ; Sorosis, 1620 California St.; Town and Country, 1916 Franklin
St.; Francisca, 1750. California St.
Booksellers. Paul Elder d- Co., cor. Bush St. and Van Ness Ave. (also
specialties in arts and crafts); A. M. Robertson, Van Ness Ave.; Isaac
Upham Co., 104 Battery St. ; New Book Store, 23 Grant Avenue.
Learned Societies and Libraries. Geographical Society of California, 611
Van Ness Ave. ; Society of California Pioneers, 1832 O'Farrell St. ; Mechanics
Institute and Library, 99 Grove St. ; free Public Library, 16th and Market
Sts. (51,000 vols.); Academy of Pacific Coast History, Berkeley (Prof.
H. Morse Stephens, Secretary) ; Academy of Sciences, Market St., near 4th St.
The historical student would also be interested in the old Spanish grants
in the Office of the Surveyor General. — All of these societies and libraries
lost their collections either entirely or in large part during the fire ; much,
however, has already been done to replace the losses.
Tourist Agents. Raymond & Whiicomb Co., Monadnock Bldg.; Thos.
Cook & Son, 32 Powell St. — Information and Statistical Bureau: Cali-
fornia Promotion Committee, Union Square (free).
Post Office (PL F, 4), at the cor. of Mission and 7th Sts. (open 7.30 a.m.-
11p.m.; Sun. 12-1.30 p.m.). Branch Offices (53 in number) at the Union
Ferry Depot; cor. of 3rd and Townsend Sts. ; cor. of Franklin St. and Fern
Ave. ; cor. of 17th and Castro Sts. ; 602 Hayes St. ; 1208 Masonic Ave. ; etc.
River Steamboats for Sacramento, Stockton, and Vallejo, daily, from
piers immediately to the S. of Union Ferry Depot. — Steamships. Oceanic
S. S. Co. to Honolulu and Tahiti (Pier No. 7, foot of Pacific St. ; office
673 Market St.); Pacific Mail S.S. Co. to Panama, Honolulu, Japan, and
China (pier foot of 1st and Brannan Sts.; office, 384 Flood Building);
Oriental S. 8. Co. to Honolulu, Yokohama, and Hongkong (pier, foot of
First and Brannan Sts.; office, 240 Flood Building); Pacific Coast S. S. Co.,
coaat-line (for Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, and San Diego, Thurs. and Sat,,
Pier 19, foot of Union St. ; for Puget Sound and Alaska, Pier 9, foot of
Broadway); and many others.
Consuls. British Consul-General, Mr. W. R. Hearn, 268 Market St.;
Consul, Mr. Wellesley Moore. German Consul, Mr. Franz Bopp, 51 Third St.
Climate. SAN FRANCISCO. 80. Route. 511
San Francisco, the largest city of California and the Pacific
Coast and the ninth city of the United States, is grandly situated
in 37° 47' N. lat., at the N. end of a peninsula 30 M. long, separat-
ing the Pacific Ocean from San Francisco Bay (see p. 517). The
city lies mainly on the shore of the hay and on the steep hills rising
from it, but is gradually extending across the peninsula [here 6 M.
wide) to the ocean. On the N. it is hounded by the famous *Golden
Gate, the narrow entrance (1 M. across) to San Francisco Bay.
A large part of the city was destroyed by fire in 1906 (see below),
but the business district has already been largely rebuilt in an
improved manner. In 1900 it contained 342,782 inhab., including
about 10,000 Chinese (comp. p. 515j and 3500-4000 Japanese.
The population in 1908 was estimated at 480,000.
Tlie Mission of San Francisco (see p. 514) was founded by the Mexi-
cans in 1776, but the modern city really sprang from the village of Yerba
Buena ('good herb', i.e. wild mint), founded in 1835, about 3 M. to the W.
In 1846 Yerba Buena came under the American flag, and in the following
year its name was changed to San Francisco. In 1848, the year of the dis-
covery of gold in California, its population was about 500; in 1850 it was
about 25,0U0. and each subsequent decade has seen an extraordinary in-
crease (56,802 in 1860 5 149,473 in 1870; 238,956 in 1880; 293,997 in 1890).
San Francisco received a city-charter in 1^50, but its corrupt municipal
government led in 1856 to the formation of a Vigilance Committee, which
took the law into its own hands and made a very thorough reformation.
History is now, to some extent, repeating itself, as the corrupt practices of
political bosses and of some of the city officials during the years before
the great earthquake have again led the better-class citizens to attempt a
thorough purification of their municipal government. — To make the
present site of San Francisco suitable for a large city, an immense amount
of work had to be done in cutting down hills and ridges, filling up gullies,
and reclaiming the mud flats on the bay(comp. p. 260). The city, however,
is still remarkably hilly; and one of its most characteristic sights is the
cable and electric cars crawling up the steep inclines like flies on a
window-pane.
The Climate of San Francisco is wonderfully equable. The mean
annual temperature is about 55°Fahr., and no month varies to any great
extent from this average. September has the highest average (about 59°),
and a few hot days (80-90°) occur about midsummer. The mean tempera-
ture of January is about 49°. Visitors should always have warm wraps at
hand, especially in the afternoons of early summer, when a strong wind
usually blows in from the sea. The annual rainfall is 25 inches.
Earthquakes occur occasionally in San Francisco, but have seldom been
destructive. About 5 a.m. on April 18th, 1906, however, a severe earthquake
visited San Francisco, lasting for about a minute and doing a great deal
of damage. Streets cracked, chimneys fell, and some of the poorer wooden
buildings were overthrown. The City Hall betame a mass of ruins, but,
on the whole, few of the more solid structures were seriously injured.
Unfortunately, however, fires broke out, soon passing beyond control
owing to the injury done to the water-mains by the earthquake, and raging
for three days. These destroyed an area of over 4sq. M., including the
whole of the business district and the older residential quarters. The
burned district is roughly bounded by the water-front on the K. and E., by
Octavia and Dolores Sts. on the W., and by Townsend St. on the S. The
docks and the buildings on Telegraph Hill (PI. F, G, 1, 2) and Russian Hill
(p. 513) escaped, while the Mint, Post Office, and Appraisers Stores were
also saved. The loss of property was estimated at § 350,000,000 (70,000,000?.).
About 425 people lost their lives. The work of rebuilding was begun at
once, and more than $ 130,000,000 were spent on new buildings within
512 Route 80. SAN FRANCISCO. Market Street.
two years of the fire. Comp. 'The California Earthquake of 1906', edited
by David Starr Jordan (1908).
The Commerce of San Francisco is extensive, the annual value of its
exports and imports amounting to about § 130,000,000. Among the chief
exports are gold and silver, wine, fruit, wool, oil, lumber, floiir, and
bread-stuffs; the imports include coal, timber, rice, sugar, tea, and coffee.
The Manufactures include iron, flour, silk and woollen goods, canned fruits
and vegetables, leather and shoes, liquors, ship-building, meat-packing,
carriages, silver-ware, sugar, glass, brass, machinery, cigars, cordage, etc.,
and had in 1900 a value of $ 133,070,000 (now estimated at more than double).
Industry was much stimulated by the recent discovery of oil in the State,
affording a cheap and admirable fuel (36,000,C00 barrels produced in 1906).
The Population is very heterogeneous, every European nationality
being represented here, to say nothing of the Mexicans, Chinese (p. 515),
Japanese, Africans (relatively few), Filipinos, Hawaians, and other non-
European races.
Market Street [PI. G-D, 2-6), the chief bnsiness-tliorongkfare,
extends to the S.W. from the *Union Ferry Depot (PI. Gr, 2), a hand-
some strnctnre by A. Page Brown, with a tower 250 ft. high, to a
point near the twin Mission Peaks (935 ft.), a distance of about 31/2 ^^
The Ferry Depot contains the Alaskan Museum (upper floor-, open free
on Mon., Wed., & Frid., 9-5); the Agricultural Colleciions of the Board of
Trade; and the State Mining Bureau^ with an interesting collection of
Californian minerals and relics (these two open free on week-days, 9-5).
Following Market St. towards the S.~W., we pass, at the intersec-
tion with Battery St., the Labour Monument^ a vigorous bronze group
by Douglas Tilden (1899), dedicated to the memory of PeterDonahue
of the Union Iron Works (p. 517). At the S. W. corner of Market and
Montgomery Sts. (PL Gr, 3) stands the Palace Hotel (p. 509), op-
posite which is the Union Trust Building, the first of the buildings
whose steel and concrete frame withstood the fire. Close by, at the
comer of Montgomery and Post Sts., are the Crocker Building^ another
survivor, and the new stone structure of the First National Bank
(PI. F, G, 3). At the corners of Kearny and 3rd Sts. rise the Chronicle
Building (PI. F, 3) and the tall Spreckels or Call Building (PI. F, 3 ;
300 ft. high), the top of either of which affords a good bird's-eye
view of the city.
This view, an excellent way to begin the inspection of the city, may be
supplemented by following Keaknt Steeet (Pi. F, 3-1), in which many of
the best shops were situated before the fire, to =■ Telegraph Hill (PI. F, G, 1, 2;
295 ft.), which commands a good view of the Golden Gate (p. 511), the
water-front of the City, the Bay, Mt. Tamalpais (If.W.; p. 517), Mt. Diablo
(N.N.E. ; p. 519), etc. At the junction of Kearny and Market Sts, is a
Fountain, presented to the city by Mme. Lotta, the actress, in 1875.
Continuing to follow Market St. towards the S.W. from the
Chronicle Building, we pass many large office-buildings. No. 783
is the tall Humboldt Savings Building. At the corner of 4th St. is
the Pacific Building, a huge structure of re-enforced concrete, with
a facade of green and brown tiles. In the same block is the Em-
porium, the 'Whiteley's' of San Francisco, which has been rehabili-
tated since the disaster of 1906. On the right, at the comer of PoweU
St., is the large Flood Building (PI. F, 3), another survivor of the
fire. It is chiefly occupied by raiiway-offlces.
U. 8. Branch Mint SAN FRANCISCO. • 80. Route. 513
Powell St. leads to Union Squakb (PI. F, 3), with the St. Francis Hotel
(p. 509) and a Naval Monument commemorating the exploits of the U. S.
fleet in the Philippines during the war with Spain (1898).
At the jnnction of Market St. with Mason St. (PI. F, 3, 4) is a
Monument , hy Douglas Tilden , commemorating the admission of
California to the Union (1850). — To the left, at the comer of 7th St.,
we catch a glimpse of the long frontage of the Post Office (PI. F, 4;
p. 510), with its fine granite carvings. — Jnst beyond this corner we,
reach a small triangular park, with the large Calif ornian Monument,
designed by Frank Happersbnrger and presented to the city by
Mr. James Lick (comp. p. 523). Adjoining this park, on the spot that
served as the pioneer bnrial-gronnd of Yerba Buena (comp. p. 511),
stand the ruins of the large City Hall (PI. E, 4). At the junction
of Yan Ness Ave. and Market St. (PL E, 4, 5) is a Monument to the
Volunteers of the Spanish- American War. At the corner of 11th St.
is the Station of the Ocean Shore Railway (p. 509).
The TJ. S. Branch Mint (PL F, 4), in 5th St., at the corner of
Mission St., contains interesting machinery and a collection of coins
and relics (open Mon.-Frid., 9-11 & 1-2). In 1906 it coined bullion
to the value of $ 52,866,741 in U. S. currency, besides 'Philippine
money' to the value of 1,451,000 pesos. The effect of the lire may
be clearly seen on the granite at the N. end of the building.
The visitor may now return to Montgomery St. (PL F, G, 3-1),
which, with the S. part of Sansome St. (PL G, 2, 3), forms the centre
of the banking district. Passing the Union Trust Building (p. 512),
we come to a series of large offlce-buildings, of which the most im-
portant are the Mills Building, cor. of Montgomery and Bush Sts.j
the Merchants Exchange (PI. G, 2), California St., near Montgomery St.
(excellent survey of the lower part of burnt district from the roof) ;
Kohl Building, cor. Montgomery and California Sts. ; Italian American
Bank, a one-story building with Doric columns, cor. Montgomery
and Sacramento Sts. 5 and the Bank of Italy, cor. Montgomery and
Clay Sts. At the N.E. corner of Sansome and California Sts. rises
the tall Alaska Commercial Building, with the handsome Bank of
California (PI. G,2) opposite. One of the districts spared by the great
fire is the square bounded by Montgomery, Washington, Battery, and
Jackson Sts., containing the U. S. Appraisers Stores and the large new
Custom House (PL G, 2). Washington St. from Montgomery St.
to the water-front is given up to the wholesale fruit and vegetable
trade. — In Portsmouth Square (PL F, 2), bounded by Wash-
ington, Dupont, Kearny, and Clay Sts., is a monument (by Bruce
Porter and Willis Polk) to Robert Louis Stevenson (1850-94), in the
form of a Spanish galleon on a granite pedestal. — A little to the
N.W. is Washington Square (PI. F, 1, 2), near which is Russian
Hill (W.), the name of the latter keeping alive the memory of the
Russian traders. This was one of the few points to the E. of Van
Ness Ave. that escaped the general conflagration.
Baedeker's United States. 4th Edit. 33
514 Route 80. • SAN FRANCISCO. Presidio.
One of the most interesting historical relics of San Francisco is
the old Mission Dolores (PL D, 65 see p. 511), at the comer of Do-
lores and 16th Sts. (reached "by 16th St. cars, with transfer from
Valencia St. or Mission St, lines). The old church (open on Sun.,
9-11), dating from about 1778, is built of adobe ('adoby'), and is
adjoined by a tangled and neglected little churchyard, in which is
the grave of Don Luis Antonio Arguello, the first Mexican governor.
The superstitious believe that divine intervention stayed the fire at
this point. Opposite is the College of Notre Dame (R. C).
For an aceovint of tlie old missions of California, see 'In and Out of
the Old Missions of California', by George Wharton Jamet (1906), and 'The
Missions of California', by Jesse S. Hildrup (1907).
Among the educational institutions of San Francisco may be
mentioned the Cooper Medical College (PL D, 3) 5 the imposing build-
ings of the Medical Department of the University of California,
known as the Affiliated Colleges, near Golden Gate Park (PL A, 5;
comp. p. 466); the Cogswell Polytechnic School (cor. Folsom and
26th Sts., beyond PL E, F, 7) ; the California School of Mechanical Arts
(PL F, 6), Utah St., founded by Mr. James Lick (p. 523) ; the Boys' High
School, Sutter St. (PL D, 3); the Girls' High School (PL C, 4); and
the Mission High School (PL D, 6), an attractive building at the corner
of 18th and Dolores Sts. San Francisco possesses numerous Kinder-
gartens, 20 of which are endowed in perpetuity.
The *Presidio (PL A, B, 1, 2), or Government Military Reservation
(best reached by the Union St. cars), garrisoned by two regiments
of U. S. infantry, besides cavalry and coast artillery, has an area of
1500 acres and stretches along the Golden Gate for about 4 M. Its
walks and drives afford beautiful views, the finest, perhaps, being
that from Fort Point or Winfield Scott. A military band plays at
the Presidio on Frid. afternoon. Daily drills are held from 9 to
11 a.m. The hills facing the Golden Gate on both sides of the
Bay are strongly fortified with batteries of mortars, disappearing
guns, and coast-defence guns of heavy calibre, many of which are
seen on the visit to the Presidio. — There is another small military
reservation at Black Point (PL D, 1; reached by Polk St. and
Larkin St. cars), with Fort Mason, the residence of the commanding
general of the department of California.
'Nob Hill' was the name given about 1870 to that section of
California Street between Powell St. and Leavenworth St. (PI. E,
F, 2, 3), as containing many of the largest private residences in San
Francisco. Most of these were of wood, and no expense was spared
to make them luxurious dwellings, but with unfortunate architec-
tural results. Few relics of these are now extant. The hill is crowned
by the huge Fairmont Hotel (p. 509; *View), opposite which is the
Hopkins Institute of Art (PL F, 3).
The present fashionable residential quarter is on Pacific Heights,
including the W. parts of Jackson St., "Washington St., Pacific Ave.,
and Central Ave. (PL D, C, 3).
Golden Gate Park. SAN FRANCISCO. 50. Route. 515
At the corner of Lyon & Washington Sts. (PL C, 3) is the tiny Sweden-
borgian Church, containing simple yet fine wood- work and adorned with
beautiful paintings by Wm. Keith and good stained glass by Bruce Porter.
The Chinese Quarter, lehnilt since the fire, is still one of the
most interesting and characteristic featnres of San Francisco. It lies,
roughly defined, between Stockton, Sacramento, Kearny, and Pacific
Streets (comp. PI. F, 2) and now consists mainly of large modern
store buildings in a (much modified) Oriental style, and of tall tene-
ments, swarming with Chinese occupants.
Chinatown contains about 10,000 inhabitants, their numbers having been
lessened of late years by the working of the Exclusion Act. A large pro-
portion of these are men. and children are scarce. There are several
Chinese Missions with schools, etc.
To the N. of Chinatown, spreading about the base of Telegraph Hill, is
the so-named Latin Quarter, peopled by Italians, Greeks, and Mexicans.
Their houses, shops, and restaurants are most characteristic. The Japanese
Quarter is bounded by Van Ness, Fillmore, Geary, and Pine Sts. (PL D, E, 3).
The largest of the public parks of San Francisco is *Golden Gate
Park (PI. A, B, 5, 6 j reached by several lines of electric and cable cars),
which extends from Stanyan St. to (3 M.) the Pacific Ocean, with
an area of 1013 acres and a width of 1/2 M- I* is prolonged towards
the E. by the long and narrow 'Pan Handle' (comp. PI. B, C, 5), The
park is tastefully laid out and planted with trees (eucalyptus, Monterey
cypress, Monterey pine, etc.). It contains monuments to President
McKinley (by Robert I. Aitkin; at the Baker St. entrance), Gen.
Halleck, Francis Scott Key (author of the 'Star-Spangled Banner' 5
by W. W. Story), President Garfield, Thomas Starr King (by Daniel
C.French), Balboa (by Linden), Padre Junipero Serra (p. 525; by
Douglas Tilden), and President Grant. Noteworthy also are the
Baseball Pitcher (by Douglas Tilden) and the Goethe-Schiller Mon-
ument (a replica of that by Rietschel at Weimar). The park also con-
tains the Crocker Conservatory (PI. A, 5), with specimens of the
Victoria Regia lily and other rare exotics; a children's playground;
tennis-courts; an interesting aviary; parks of buffalo, deer, and elk;
an arboretum; and a charming Japanese tea-house and garden. Here,
too, is the Art Gallery of the Midwinter Exhibition of 1894, now
containing an interesting Museum (daily, 9-4), with a collection
of South Sea implements, Chinese and Japanese articles, French and
Flemish laces and fans, and admirable specimens of the basket-work
of the California Indians. Near the Music Stand, where a military
band plays on Sun. and holiday afternoons in fine weather, is the
Museum of the Academy of Sciences (p. 510). Good views of the
Golden Gate and of the surf rolling in on the ocean-beach are obtained
from Strawberry Hill (426 ft.), the most conspicuous point in the
Park. This is crowned by a picturesque Observatory. At the foot of
the hill lies the Stow Lake, fed through the Huntington Fall. Both
are artificial, the lake occupying a basin considerably higher than
the general level of the park. Many varieties of water-fowl may be
seen here. Boats may be hired on the N. side of the lake. Near
33*
516 Route 80. SAN FRANCISCO. Excursions.
Strawberry Hill (p. 515), on a lower eminence, rises 'Prayer-Book
Cross', commemorating tlie landing in the bay of Sir Francis Drake
and tbe first Cliurch of England service on this store. In the W. part
of the park is an excellent ^ Speed Road". — Hill Park, now Buena
Vista Park (PI. C, 5, 6), V2 ^^- from the E. end of Golden Gate
Park, commands fine views (highest point 570 ft.).
Near the N.E. corner of Golden Gate Park (p. 515) is a group of
cemeteries (no longer used for burials), the largest of which is the
*Laiirel Hill Cemetery (PI. B, 3), containing many fine monuments.
The adjoining Calvary Cemetery (VI. C, A), formerly Lone Mountain
(468 ft.), the top of which is marked by a large wooden cross, com-
mands a splendid *View of the city, the Ocean, San Francisco Bay,
the Golden Gate, Mt. Tamalpais, and Mt. Diablo. The Yerba Buena
(p. 511) grows on Lone Mt. — The Presidio (p. 514) lies a little to
the N. of Laurel Hill Cemetery (see above).
Excursions from San Francisco.
ScTEO Heights Pakk.^ Seal Eocks (Cliff House). — These points may
be reached by driving via the Golden Gate Park or Geary St. (Point Lobos
Avenue), by the 'Ellis St., Park, and Ocean" tramway (see below), skirting the
S. side of Golden Gate Park, by the 'Sutter St.' tramway, or by the 'California
and Cliff Line'' from Presidio Ave. and California St. It is advisable to
go one way and return another. The through-fare, incl. transfers, is 5 c.
The excursion to (6 M.) Point Lobos, with Sutro Heights and the
Seal Rocks (Cliff House), is one of the most popular short excursions
from San Francisco. The 'Cliff' cars of the Sutter St. line skirt the
rocks overhanging the Golden Gate (p. 511), of which it affords a
magnificent *View, and ends near the entrance to *Sutro Heights
Park, the beautifully laid-out grounds of the late Mr. Adolph Sutro
(freely open to the public). The fine trees and plants here grow
luxuriantly on the originally sandy but now well-watered site. The
statuary could be dispensed with. Fine *yiew from the terrace over
the Pacific Ocean, with the Farralone Islands, 30 M. to the W.
(lighthouse). At our feet lies the Cliff House, a famous hotel and
restaurant, destroyed by fire in 1907 and now being rebuilt. A great
attraction here is the view of the *Seal Eocks, a stone's throw from
the land, where huge sea-lions (Span, lobos marinas^ bask in the sun.
Some of the animals are 12-15 ft. long and weigh from 1000 lbs.
upwards; and their evolutions in the water are very interesting.
Their singular barking is easily audible amid the roar of the breakers.
Near by are the huge and magnificent *Sutro Public Baths, with
salt-water swimming pools (bath 45 c), an aquarium, restaurants,
and a theatre. — The station of the 'Ellis St., Park, and Ocean'
tramway (see above) lies on the beach, a little to the S. of the Cliff
House. Drivers who have come by Geary St. or Golden Gate Park may
vary the route, in returning, by following the Ocean Boulevard for
about 3 M. and then turning into Ocean Ave. To the right, near the
beginning of the latter, lies Merced Lake.
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Excursions. SAN FRANCISCO. 80. Route. 517
Among the short drives or trips by electric car from San Francisco
may be mentioned that to San Bruno Mt, (1315 ft.), 6 M. to the S. (2 M.
from Baden, p. 621), a good point of view. Electric cars may also be taken
(at the corner of Market and 5th Sts.) to (20 M.) Burlingame (p. 521) and
(22 31.) San Mateo (p. 521). — A drive along the water-front gives some
idea of the commercial activity of San Francisco and may include visits
to the large Union Iron Works (PI. H, 6; by permission obtained at city-
office) at Poirero Point (also accessible by electric car), where ships of war
are built, and to the Dry Dock at Hunter^s Point.
The Government Posts in the Bay of San Francisco may be visited by
the steamer 'General McDoweir, which sails thrice daily from the foot of
Washington St. (PI. G,2) to Alcatraz, Angel Island, Fort Mason (Black Point),
and the Presidio (permits must be obtained at the Presidio). Alcatraz
Island contains a military prison and a torpedo station. Angel Island
serves as the Quarantine Station, Terba Buena. known popularly as Goat
Island, is the naval training-station, and the 'Pensacola\ an old man-of-
war, is moored here as a school-ship. The Presidio and Fort Mason are
described at p. 514. — The largest naval station near San Francisco is at
Mare Island, reached via Vallejo Junction and Vallejo (see p. 518). The
island is the headquarters of the U. S. Pacific Naval Squadron and of the
U. 8. Marine Corps, and contains a Navy Yard, with large dry docks and
interesting machinery.
*San Francisco Bay, a noble sheet of water 50 M. long and 10 M.
wide, gives San Francisco one of the grandest harbours in the world and af-
fords numerous charming excursions. The various Ferries start from the
foot of Market St. (PI. G, 2).
(1). The ferry starting farthest to the N. plies to the If. across the
Bay, affording a good view of the Golden Gate (left) and Belvedere (right;
a hilly peninsula jutting into the bay from the N. shore, with many summer
homes and a hotel), to (6 M.) Sausalito (Hollyoaks), a pleasant little yacht-
ing, bathing, and fishing resort, vnth many scrub-oaks and a few laurels,
eucalyptus-trees, and willows ('sausaF ; the last once much more numerous),
A very attractive *Walk, with good "views of the Golden Gate, leads
round the promontory via Lime Point to (4 M.) Point Bonita, the '^. horn
of the Golden Gate (lighthouse),
[From Sausalito the electric service of the North- Western Pacific
R. R. runs to (5 M.) Mill Valley, a charming region, thick with villas and
cottages, from which the winding Mt. Tamalpais Scenic R. R. (views to
the left) ascends to (81/4 M.) the top of Mt. Tamalpais (2604 ft.; 2 hrs,
from San Francisco; through-fare 31.15, return $1.90). The railway ter-
minates at the Tavern of Tamalpais (R. $ 1), about 200 ft. below the summit.
The *View from the top includes the Pacific Ocean, the Coast Range, the
Sierra Nevada, the Santa Cruz Mts., the Contra Costa Hills (overtopped
by Mt. Diablo), Mt. Hamilton, San Francisco, and San Francisco Bay. A
trail has been cut from the railway to Bolinas Ridge, etc. A gravity car
leaves the Tavern daily at 2 p.m. for the Muir Woods (a fine grove of red-
woods) and Mill Valley (fare $ 1).
Sausalito is also the starting-point of a narrow gauge steam-railway
of the same company, running N. to (81 M.) Gazadero. — 10 M. San An-
selmo, the junction of a short line to San Rafael (see helow); 22 M.Camp
Taylor; 26 M. Tocaloma; 30 M. Point Reyes, a shooting and fishing pre-
serve, at the head of Tomales Bay. Beyond (63 M.) Occidental (600 ft.) we
pass through a fine redwood district. — 81 M. Cazadero {*Cazadero Hotel,
$ 2), a favourite sporting and summer resort in the midst of the redwoods.
Stages run hence to the N. along the coast.]
(2). The second ferry plies to (6 M.) Tiburon, the starting-point of the
railway to San Rafael, Petaluma, and Sfieruood (see below).
[From Tibukon to Sherwood, 145 M., North-Western Pacific Railroad, in
7 hrs. — 9M. San Rafael (generally pron. 'SanRafell'; -Hotel Rafael, from
$3; Jordan, $11/2; many small hotels and boarding-houses), a charming
little resort, affording a pleasant and balmy relief from the dusty winds of
San Francisco, should be visited by every tourist, especially in the time
518 Route 80. SAN FRANCISCO. Excursions.
of roses. It may also be reached from SansaJito by (12 M.) electric train. —
From. (17 M.) Ignacio a branch-line runs to (39 M.) Boyes Hot Springs and
(43 M.) Glen Ellen. 31 M. Fetaluma (American Hotel, $ 2-2V2), with 3871 in-
hab. and a thriving trade in poultry, grain, and fruit, is the junction of a
branch-line to (5 M.) Donahue. At (46 M.) Santa Rosa (Lebanon, $ 21/2), the
home of Mr. Luther Burbank, the horticulturist, an omnibus meets trains
for (2V2 M.; fare 50 c.) White Sulphur Springs. 51 M. Fulton, the junction
of a branch -line to Guerneville and Camp Vacation (18 M.); 52 M. Mark
West, with sulphur springs; 60 M. Healdsburg. From (68 M.) Geyserville
stages run to (9 M.) Skaggs* Springs, with a number of warm sulphur
springs. — From (78 M.) CToyercZaZe (United States Hotel, $1V2-2V2) a stage-
coach runs to (18 M. ; fare 5 2) the ^Geyser Springs (2000 ft. ; Hotel, $21/2), a
number of boiling springs in the DeviVs Canyon, near the Pluton River.
These springs vary greatly in temperature, appearance, and character, but
there are no true geysers among them (comp. p. 44S). The accepted theory
ascribes them to chemical action. A guide is procured at the hotel to point
out and name the most interesting features. The Geyser Springs may also
be reached from Calistoga (see below). — Beyond Cloverdale the line con-
tinues to run towards the TS., with the Russian River at some distance to
the right. From (92 M.) Hopland stages ply to various points in the pictur-
esque Clear Lake District (numerous mineral springs). 106 M. JJkidh, the
starting-point of stage-lines to numerous mineral springs in the surround-
ing district. 132 M. Willits (Hotel Willits, $ 2-3). — It is proposed to extend
the line from (145 M.) Sherwood (Sherwood Inn, $ IV2), the present terminus,
to Eureka, on Humboldt Bay. Stages now cover the gap between Sherwood
and Camp 5, to which point the railway has been built from Eureka towards
the S. (42 M.).J
(3). The third ferry is that of the Santa F6 Railway, which runs to
(71/2 M.) Ferry Point (p. 485) in connection with the trains of the Santa
Fe System.
(4). The 'Key Route' ferry of the San Francisco, Oakland, (k San Jos4
Electric Railway runs every 2U min. to the 'Key Route' mole, where trains
are taken for Oakland and Berkeleyi
(5). The fifth ferry is that to Oakland, already mentioned at p. 466.
This is the route for the Southern Pacific lines to the N., S., and E.
(6). Another line plies to (4 M.) Alameda Mole, whence the Southern
Pacific Railway runs to (6 M.) Alameda (Park Hotel, R. from $ 1), a pleasant
suburban town (16,464 inhab.), adjoining Oakland on the S., with attractive
gardens and well-kept streets.
Feom San Francisco to Calistoga, 73 M., Southern Pacific Railway in
31/4-31,2 hrs. — From San Francisco to (29 M.) Vallejo Junction, see p. 466.
We then cross the strait by steamer to (31 M.) South Vallejo. 32 M. ITorth
Vallejo ('Vallayho'), a small town of 7965 inhab., opposite Mare Island
(p. 517). The train now runs to the N. through the fertile *Napa Valley,
which is especially rich in grapes and other fruits. — From (38 M.) Napa
Junction branch-lines run to (13 Isl.^Suisun (p. 465), and to Sonoma (p. 519),
Glen Ellen, and Santa Rosa (see above). — From (46 M.) Napa (hotel, $2),
a busy little city of 4036 inhab., with the large State Hospital, we may
drive to the (6 M.) Napa Soda Springs. — Beyond (55 M.) Yountville we
traverse extensive vineyards. 64 M. St. Helena, with many fine vineyards,
is the starting-point of stages to White Sulphur Springs (2 M. ; 25 c), jEtna
Springs (16 M. ; stage daily in 3 hrs. •, fare § IV2), and Angevin, on Howell
Mountain, a plateau of pine and balsam firs, famous for curative results in
throat and lung maladies. — 73 M. Calistoga (Calistoga, $272-5), the ter-
minus of the railway, is a pretty little town of 1200 inhab., with several
warm mineral springs. About 5 M. to the W. is the curious ^'Petrified
Forest, a tract 4 M. long and 1 M. wide, over which are scattered the re-
mains of about 100 petrified trees. — About 12 M. to the N.W. of Calistoga
rises Mt. St. Helena (4345 ft.), an extinct volcano, which may be ascended
on horseback and aflords an extensive view. Near by is R. L. Stevenson's
'Silverado'. From Calistoga stage-coaches run daily to (27 M.; $2.30) the
Oej/ter Springs (see above) and to points in Clear Lake District (flee above.)
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Excursions. SAN FRANCISCO. 80. Route. 519
Fkom San Fkancisco to Mount Diablo. — We proceed by ferry and
train to (39 M.) Avon, as described at p. 529, and there take the San Ramon
branch-line (S. P. R.) to (13 M.) Walnut Creek. Here horses and carriages
can be hired for (7 M.) the summit of the mountain, of which two-thirds may
be done by carriage, the remainder on horseback or on foot. Mt. Diablo
(3850 ft.), a conspicuous object for many miles round and well seen from
San Francisco (28 M. distant as the crow flies), commands a very extensive
*View, including the valleys of the Sacramento to the N. and the San
Joaquin to the S., the Sierra Nevada from Lassen's Peak on the N. to
Mt. Whitney on the S., the Coast Range, and San Francisco. The ascent
may also be made from San Ramon.
Sonoma (Union, City, $172-^)5 a city of 652 inhab., in the Sonoma Valley,
to the N. of San Pablo Bay, is interesting as one of the chief seats of
the Californian vine- culture. The wine is kept in tunnels excavated in
the hills of volcanic sandstone. Sonoma is reached by railway (37 M.)
from Tiburon (p. 517) or from (15 M.) Jfapa Junction (p. 518).
Californian Wines (communicated). Wine-making in California dates
from 1T75, the cuttings of a European grape having been brought to Cali-
fornia by the Franciscan Fathers, who migrated thither from Mexico in
1769. They planted these vines around their Missions and made wine for
their own use.
It was not, however, till after 1860 that wine-making began on a com-
mercial scale. In 1861 a Viticultural Commission was appointed by the
State of California, one member of which, Mr. Agoston Haraszthy, was
despatched to Europe to examine into and report upon wine-growing and
wine-making as carried on in the older wine-making countries, and their
adaptability to the climate and the soil of California. On his return from
Europe the Commissioner brought with him about 200,000 cuttings and
rooted vines of every attainable variety to be found in Europe, Asia Minor,
Persia, and Egypt.
Systematic planting was then pursued in the districts most adapted to
each variety. Thus the wines of the Medoc, Burgundy, Sauterne, Rhine,
and Moselle types were successfully produced in the region contiguous to
the coast and surrounding the Bay of San Francisco, where the influence
of the sea-fogs so tempers the climate as to produce ideal conditions for
the development of the requisite proportions of sugar and acid in the
grapes to bring about advantageous fermentation of dry wines. The wines
of Napa and Sonoma Counties are analogous to the French, Italian, and
German dry red and white wines; in Alameda County is found a situation
eminently suitable to the production of wines of the Sauterne type ; while in
S,an Joaquin, Sacramento, and Yolo Counties dry wines closely resembling
those of Algeria are produced.
In the interior valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers, and
in the S. part of the State, in the vicinity of Los Angeles, ideal surround-
ings were found to exist for the making of sweet wines after the types of
those produced in Spain, Portugal, and Madeira. Port, sherry, malaga,
madeira, and tokay are all produced here on a very large scale. — In all
about 125 of the best European wine-grape stocks are now cultivated in
California in the localities best suited to them.
In 1894 the large wine makers and dealers combined their resources
and skill under an organization called the Californian Wine Association,
with a capital stock of $10,000,000. This organization, having the con-
fidence of bankers and business men, was enabled to bring about a very
great improvement in the production, handling, and marketing of Californian
wines, which, besides a domestic consumption, have now a large export
demand. Many gold and silver medals have been awarded to Californian
wines at International Exhibitions, including those at Bordeaux (1895), Paris
(1900), and Milan (1906).
The production of wine and brandy in the State rose from 5,000,000 gallons
in 1878 to 80,000,000 gallons in 1898 and to 41,000,000 gallons in 1907. Of
this total about three-fifths are dry wines, nearlv two-fifths sweet wines,
and the balance (1,500,000 gallons) brandy.
520 BouteSl. SANTA CRUZ BIG TREES.
The total area in vines in the State is 250,000 acres, of which about
one-half is devoted exclusively to wrne-niaking. about 100,000 acres to raisins
and brandy-making purposes, and about 25,000 acres to grapes for table-use.
The total investment in the grape-growing industry of California, in-
cluding vineyards and establishments for wine-growing and storage, grape-
drying, and shipping, is estimated to exceed $ 100,000,000.
81. From San Francisco to Santa Crnz.
Comp. Map, p. 519.
a. Vi& Oakland.
82 M. Feebt to (8M.) Oakland; Southern Pacific Railway thence to
(48 M.) San JoU (fare S 1.25; return-fare, Sat. to Sun., $ 1.75) and to (82 M.)
Sania Cruz ($ 2.80). This excursion, which should not be omitted by any
visitor to San Francisco, may be made by holders of through - tickets be-
tween Los Angeles and San Francisco, in either direction (see R. 82).
From San Francisco to (4 M.) Alameda Mole and (7 M.) Oakland,
see p. 466. The line skirts the E. shore of San Francisco Bay (views
to the right). 11 M. Fruitvale; 26 M. Alvarado; 31 M. Newark. At
(40 M.) Alviso we reach the smiling Santa Clara Valley (p. 522).
45 M. Santa Clara (p. 523). — 48 M. San Jose, see p. 523.
The most picturesque part of the line soon begins now, as it
ascends over the Santa Cruz Mts. (views). 57 M. Los Gatos ('The
Cats'; 400 ft.), a pretty little town on the E. slope of the mountains,
lies in the warm belt and grows oranges snccessfnlly. Farther on we
ascend through a canyon with fine rock-scenery and towering red-
wood trees. 60 M. Alma (560 ft.) ; 63 M. Eva. From (64 M.) Wrights
(900 ft.) we descend rapidly, through similar scenery, towards the
coast. — 73 M. Felton (275 ft).
From Felton a branch-line runs to (4 M.) Ben Lomond (Ben Lomond
Hotel, from $ 2V2), a summer-resort, (6 M.) Brookdale, and (8 M.) Boulder Creek.
76 M. Big Trees (270 ft.), the station for the famous *Big Trees
of Santa Cruz.
This grove (adm. 25 c.) contains about a score of the genuine Redwood
(Sequoia sempervirens ; comp. p. 549) with a diameter of 10 ft. and upwards.
The largest is 23 ft. across-, one of the finest, named the Giant, has a
circumference of 70 ft. A large hollow tree is shown in which G-en. Fre-
mont camped for several days in 1847. Another stump is covered with a
platform, which holds 12-14 people.
78 M. Rincon (300 ft.).
82 M. Santa Cruz [St. George, in the town, from $ 3; Pope Ho.,
for weekly boarders ; Sea Beach Ho., from $ 3, at the beach, 1 M. from
the town, open all the year), a small city of 5659 inhab., originating
in the Mission de la Santa Cruz (1791), is pleasantly situated at the
N. end of the Bay of Monterey (p. 524) and is a favourite summer
and winter resort. Its attractions include an excellent bathing-beach
(with a casino, band-stands, a tent-city like that mentioned at p. 540,
fresh-water lakes, and cold and hot water plunge baths), fine cliffs,
good fishing, caves and recesses abounding in sea-anemones, beautiful
flower-gardens, and picturesque surroundings. The slow freight-boats,
carrying a few passengers up and down the coast, put in here. A grand
SAN MATEO. S2. Route. 521
drive, affording splendid *Views of forest and monntain scenery, may
be made to the (6 M.) Big Trees (p. 520), returning by the cliffs along
the shore.
From Santa Cruz to Pajaro., see p. 524.
b. Via, Ocean Shore Eailway.
69 M. This new line was not yet wholly open for traffic when the Hand-
book went to press. Railway from San Francisco to (30 M.) Half Moon
Bay in 2hrs. (fare 95 c.) and thence (1 hp.) to (38 M.) Long Bridge; Stage
Coaches hence to Pescadero and Swanton; Railway from Swanton to (16 M.)
Santa Cruz in 1 hr. (fare 65 c).
San Francisco (present depot at cor. of 12th and Mission Sts.),
see p. 509. This line hugs the coast closely, affording good views of
the Coast Range to the left and of the ocean to the right. 7 M.
Palmetto; 10 M. Thornton; 12 M. Mussel Rock; 13 M. Edgemar;
14 M. Salada; 15M. Brighton Beach ; 16M. Calera; 17M. Rockaway;
18 M. ToUn; 19 M. San Pedro Terrace; 23 M. Honiara. 231/2 M.
Farallone is the nearest point for a visit to the FaiaUone Islands
(p. 516). 24 M. Moss Beach; 28 M. Granada; 30 M. Half Moon
Bay (see above); 31 M. Arleta Park; 36 M. Lobitos ; 38 M. Long
Bridge (see above). — 63 M. Swanton (see above) 5 69 M. Santa
Cruz, see p. 520.
82. From San Francisco to Los Angeles.
Comp. Maps, pp. 516, 519, 535.
a. Vi& Coast Line.
475 M. Southern Pacific Railway in I43/4 hrs. (fare $ 14; sleep.er $ 2.50).
Unlimited ticTtets ($ 16.75) are also available by the line to San Jose via Oak-
land (R. 81), allowing a stoppage at Santa Cruz (p. 520), whence we rejoin
the main coast-line at Pajaro (p. 524). For stop-over at the Del Monte Hotel,
see p. 524.
San Francisco, see p. 509. The train starts from the Southern
Pacific Railway Station (p. 509) and at first runs through a series of
short tunnels, from which it emerges at (9 M.) South San Francisco.
San Francisco Bay, which we skirt for 30 M., comes into view on the
left. 12 M. Baden; 15 M. San Bruno; 17 M. Millbrae, with the large
country-house of Mr. D. 0. MUls (right). — 20 M. Burlingame, a
fashionable residence suburb. — 22 M. San Mateo (Peninsula, from
$3; Pierchon, Wisman, from $21/2)5 a pleasant little town, em-
bosomed in live-oaks, is the starting-point of a daily stage-line to
(33 M.) Pescadero (through-fare $3.10).
The road to Pescadero crosses the Sierra Morena (views), passing the
interesting old village of Spanishtown. — Pescadero {Swanton Ho., $ 2),
a small village on the Pacific coast, at the mouth of Pescadero Valley, is
famous for its Pebble Beach, on which agates, opals, jaspers, and other
similar stones are found.
26 M. Belmont. — 29 M. Redwood (Tremont, $ 1 1/2)5 so named
from the trees (see p. 520) in the timber of which it does its prin-
cipal trade. A good road runs hence across the Sierra Morena to
522 Route 82. SANTA CLARA. From San Francisco
San Oregorio, traversing a splendid redwood forest (*Yiews). There
is also a stage from Redwood daily to (31 M.) Pescadero (p. 521 ;
throngh-fare from San Francisco, $ 3.05).
33M. Menlo Park {Menlo Park Hotel.Odk GroveVilla, from $2) is
another favourite residence of the wealthy merchants of San Francisco
and contains many fine houses, surrounded by beautifully laid out
grounds and noble trees. Beyond Menlo Park the red roofs of the Stan-
ford University (see below) may be seen to the right. — 34 M. Palo Alto
(Palo Alto Hotel, $ 2), taking its name ('tall tree') from a great redwood
to the left of the railway, is the nearest station to the(l M.) University.
*Leland Stanford Jr. University, founded by Mr. and Mrs. Leland Stan-
ford in memory of their onlv son and endowed by tbem witb upwards
of $ 30,000,000 (6,000,000^.), was opened in 1891 and has now a staff of
about 130 instructors and an attendance of 1500 students, of whom 500
are women. It is finely situated on the former Palo Alto stock-farm (a
tract of 8400 acres, deeded to the University), on a plain near the foot of
the coast mountains. The buildings were mainly designed by H. H. Richard-
son^ who took the motif of their architecture from the cloisters of the San
Antonio Mission (p. 525). The material is buff, rough-faced sandstone, sur-
mounted by red-tiled roofs, producing brilliant effects of colour in con-
junction with the live-oak, white oak, and eucalyptus trees outside,
the tropical plants in the quadrangle, and the blue sky overhead. In the
earthquake of 1906 the buildings suffered severely, the damage done being
estimated at nearly $ 2,000,000. Much, however, has been restored or
rebuilt. The buildings include a low quadrangle, enclosing a court 5S6 ft.
long and 246 ft. wide, with a beautiful colonnade on the inner side; an
outer, two-storied quadrangle, with cloisters on the outside; a chapel;
various dormitories; an art museum; a mechanical department; and a
little village of professors' houses. Visitors may procure meals at the
University Inn. — Near the University were the celebrated Palo Alto Stables
and Paddocks (Mr. Stanford's), which are now closed, all the stock having
been sold. Among the most famous horses bred at this stud was Sunol,
who trotted a mile in 2 min. TVs sec, and whose grave is shown.
40 M. Mountain View is the nearest station to (6 M.) Cupertino
where one of the finest red wines in California is produced (Las
Palmas). This vineyard has of late years suffered greatly, as have many
in this valley, from the phylloxera, but the replanting of 'resistant stock'
has redeemed it. — The railway now follows the * Santa Clara Valley.,
one of the fairest and most fertile valleys in California, sheltered
on either hand by mountains. Large quantities of fruit (especially
grapes, prunes, and peaches) and hay are grown here. Excellent
wine is also made. At Agnews^ as we approach Santa Clara, a large
Insane Asylum is seen to the left.
48 M. Santa Clara (70 ft. ; Santa Clara, $ 1 V2), a pretty little
town with 3650 inhab., is the seat of Santa Clara College , a large
institution founded by the Jesuits in 1851 (150-200 students).
Its church, belonging to the old mission of 1777, is one of the best
preserved in the state. The town has become an important ship-
ping centre for fruit. Santa Clara is connected with (31/2 M.) San
Jose (p. 523) by the * Alameda, a fine avenue traversed by an
electric tramway (fare 10 c). It is well worth while; especially in
tthe rose season, to leave the train at Santa Clara and drive (carr. or
tramway) thrpugli the Alameda to San Jose.
to Los Angeles. SAN JOSE. 82. Route. 523
51 M. San Jose ('Hosay' ; 90 ft. ; *Hotel Vendome, with pleasant
grounds and snn-parlonr, $ 3-4; New St. James, from $21/25 R- fro™
$ 1), a beautiful city of 21,500 inhab., is of importance as the chief
place in the fruitful Santa Clara valley (p. 522) and is also fre-
quented on account of its delightful climate. The dome of the fine
Court House affords an extensive *View, including the Calaveras
Mts. (with Mt Hamilton) to the E., the Santa Cruz Mts. to the S.,
the Contra Costa Mts. to the "W., and San Francisco Bay to the N.
The City Hall, Post Office, and Public Library are important buildings.
San Jose also contains several good schools and colleges.
San Jose is the starting-point for (26 M.) Lick Observatory, on Mt. Ham-
ilton. Stages start daily (except Sun.) at 7.30 a.m. and reach the Observatory
about 1.30 p.m., halting 1 hr., and regaining San Jose at 6 p.m. (return
fare $ 4, from San Francisco 0 6.50). On Sat., when visitors are allowed
to look through the great telescope between 7 and 10 p.m., the stage
starts at 12.30 p.m. and returns about midnight (return-fare $ 5, from
San Francisco $ 7.50). Parties of four or more should hire a private
carriage. The road, though uphill nearly all the way, is so well made
and easily graded that a fair rate of speed is maintained, while the
beautiful and ever-varying views prevent weariness. Innumerable wild-
flowers line the way, while the manzanita, live-oaks, and other trees
are also interesting. The Observatory is in sight most of the time. We
cross two intervening ridges. About 7 M. from San Jose we pass near the
mouth of the Penitencia Canyon (so called because the monks of the San Jose
Mission kept their retreats here), which has been reserved as a city-park,
called the Alum Eock Canyon Park (1000 acres), containing 16 mineral springs,
public baths, a restaurant, a deer paddock, a bear den, and an aviary (hotel;
electric car from San Jose). On crossing the second of the intervening
ridges, we descend into Smith Creek (2145 ft.), where a halt is generally
made for dinner (50 c.) at the Santa Tsabel Hotel (good food and beds).
The hotel lies at the base of Mt. Hamilton, 2 M. from the Observatory
in a direct line (footpath), but 7 M. by the road, which is said to make
365 bends. Visitors sometimes spend Sat. night here and return to San
Jose on Sun. morning. — The *Lick Observatory, founded with a legacy
of $700,000 (140,000 ^.) left by Mr. James Lick (1798-1876) of San Francisco
(comp. p. 513), stands on the summit of Mt. Hamilton (4444 ft.), and is in
point of situation, equipment, and achievement one of the leading obser-
vatories of the world. It forms the astronomical department of the Uni-
versity of California (p. 466). The Great Telescope is one of the largest and
most powerful refracting telescopes in existence; its object-glass, 36 inches
in diameter, was made by Alvan Clark of Cambridge (p. 273). Mr. Lick is
buried in the foundation-pier of the telescope. Visitors are received courte-
ously at the Observatory and shown all the objects of interest (10-4, Sat. 7-10
in the evening; no admission on Sun.), but there is no inn or restaurant
nearer than Smith Creek. The '"'View from the Observatory is very ex-
tensive, sometimes including wonderful effects of cloud and mist. It em-
braces, on a clear day, the Sierra Nevada, the Pacific Ocean, Santa Clara
Valley, Angel Island (p. 517), San Bruno Mt., and Mt. Tamalpais (p. 517).
Loma Prieta (p, 524) is conspicuous to the S. Comp. 'Handbook of the
Lick Observatory", by E. S. Holden.
About 12 M. to the S. of San Jose, in a spur of the coast-range, are the
interesting New Almaden Quicksilver Mines^ which may be reached by railway
(fare 35 c). — An excursion may be made (by electric car) to the Pacific Con-
gress Springs {JQQ ft.), 12 m. to the S.W., which are beneficial in rheumatism.
The return may be made along the foot-hills by way of (6 M.) Los Gatos (p. 520).
San Jose is also a station on the Oakland line to Santa Cruz (comp. p. 520).
Beyond San Jose the Lick Observatory (see above) , on the top
of Mt. Hamilton, is seen to the left. 56 M. Hillsdale (150 ft.);
524 Route 82. MONTEREY. From San Francisco
69 M. Madrone (340 ft), 6 M. to the W. of the Madrone Springs. —
81 M. Gilroy (190 ft. ; Sonthera Pacific Hotel, $2), a bnsy little city of
1820 inhab., 13 M. to the W. of the frequented Gilroy Hot Springs
(Hotel, $21/2; stage daily in 21/2 trs.). From Gilroy a branch-line
leads to the S. to (95 M.) Hollister and (101 M.) Tres Pinos, a centre
of the grain and cattle trade. — Our line bends to the "W. and runs
towards the coast. 100 M. Pajaro ('Paharo' ; otherwise known as East
Watsonville), the junction of the line to Santa Cruz.
From Pajaeo to Santa Cedz, 21 M., railway in 1 hr, — This line runs
to the N.W., with the pointed Loma Prieta ('Black Mt, ; 3790ft.), one of
the loftiest of the Santa Cruz Mts., rising to the right. 2 M. Watsonville.,
a centre of the fruit trade in this district. 13 M. Aptos and (16 M.) Capitola
are two resorts on Monterey Bay. 20 M. Santa Cruz Beach. — 21 M. Santa
Cruz, see p. 520.
Beyond Pajaro onr line runs to the S.W. through a vaUey shut in
by ravined hills to (110 M.) Castroville, the junction of the branch-
line to Monterey, the Hotel del Monte, and Pacific Grove.
Fkom Casteoville to Monteeex and Pacific Geove, 17 M., railway
in 3/4 hr. Through unlimited tickets between San Francisco and Los Angeles
(see p. 521) allow a stop-over at Del Monte on payment of the return-fare
(90 c.) between Castroville and Del Monte. A special ticket (price §22)
covers the journey from San Francisco to Los Angeles, the detour to Del
Monte, and two days board at the hotel. Week-end return-tickets from
San Francisco to Del Monte, including hotel board, are also sold for
$ 10. — This branch-line leaves the orchards and meadows through which
we have been journeying, runs between the sand-dunes and chaparral that
fringe the shore of Monterey Bay , and crosses the Salinas River near its
mouth. 14 M. Dei Monte ^ see below; 15 M. Monterep , see below. — 17 M.
Pacific Grove {Pacific Grove Hotels from $ 2, under the same management
as the Del Monte), a seaside resort also connected with Monterey and Del
Monte by an electric tramway skirting the coast. The Marine Biological
Laboratories of both the University of Califurnia (p. 466) and of Stanford
University (p. 522) are situated at Pacific Grove.
Monterey {The Monterey, R. from $1), situated on the S. side of the
bay of that name, 85 M. from San Francisco by sea, contains 1748 inhab.,
largely of Spanish blood, and is one of the quaintest of Californian towns,
its atmosphere stUl drowsy with the Spanish-Mexican spirit of ''pocotiempo\
Its site was visited by the Spaniards in 1602, but it was not until 1T70
that the Mission de San Carlos de Monterey was founded on this spot.
Monterey was the capital of California before and for a while after its con-
quest by the Americans in 1846, but with the removal of the seat of govern-
ment went the commercial importance and life of the little town. It is,
however, extensively visited on account of its balmy climate (warm in
winter and cool in summer ; mean temp, of Jan. ca. 50°, of June, July,
and Aug. 60-64°), its beautiful sandy beach, and its charming surroundings.
Many of its buildings are of adobe. Some remains of the old Spanish
fort still remain, while the Roman Catholic church occupies the site of
the Mission, which was removed to Carmelo Valley (see p. 525) in 1771.
The historic Custom Bouse of Spanish and early American rule is well
preserved. The house in which Robert Louis Stevenson lived in 1878 is
pointed out. Colion Hall was the first capitol of California.
The "Hotel del Monte ('Hotel of the Foresf), Vs M. from the above
mentioned station and one of the most comfortable, best-kept, and most
attractive hotels in America, lies in the midst of exquisite 'Grounds,
in some ways recalling the fine country parks of England, though, of
course, the vegetation is very diflferent. Among the noble old trees which
surround it are innumerable live-oaks and Monterey pines and cypresses,
while the 'Gardens offer a continual feast of colour. One section of the
ardens, known as 'Arizona', is devoted to cacti of all kinds, and in
to Los Angeles. MONTEREY. 82. Route. 525
another part of the grounds is a Maze of cypress hedges. A little to the N.
of the hotel is the pretty little boating- lake named the Laguna del Rey^
while on the beach, V2 M. from the hotel, is a large Bathing Sotise, in-
cluding four swimming-basins and hot water tanks. Nearly opposite the
hotel is the Hotel del Monte Club Bouse; tennis courts and croquet lawns
are scattered among the trees, and near by are Oolf Links.
The chief excursion from the hotel is the so-called **Seventeen Mile
Drive, leading round the peninsula on which Monterey lies. As we leave
the town, going towards the W., we see, on the hill to the left, a Statue
of Padre Junipero Serra, the founder of the Mission, erected in 1891. To
the right is the Bay of Monterey, with its white sandy beach. On the left
is a still unfinished shaft, its stones contributed by the counties and societies
of California, to be surmounted by a statue of Commodore Sloat, who first
raised the American flag on the Pacific coast, in 1846. We pass the Presidio,
a U.S. army post and reservation to the left; on the beach beyond are
the low gray huts of Chinese and Japanese fishermen. About 1 M. beyond
Pacific Grove (p, 524) we pass near the lighthouse on Point Pinos, the
S. headland of the Bay of Monterey, and turn to the left. The next part
of the road lies mainly through trees, passing not far from the little Lake
Majella. To the right is the Moss Beach (fine algae, or sea-mosses). Farther
on we have a fine unimpeded view of the Pacific Ocean, and about 7 M.
from Monterey reach the "Seal Rocks, where we enjoy a spectacle similar
to that mentioned at p. 516. Another mile brings us to "'Cypress Point, with
its flat, umbrella-like Monterey cypresses (Cupressus macrocarpa), a sing-
ular, crooked, misshapen tree indigenous to this locality. Beyond Cypress
Point the road runs to the E., passing Pebble Beach, where agates, etc.,
may be picked up; Chinese Cove, with a small Chinese settlement; and
the sandy Pescadero Beach. The road then turns to the left (N.), and a
short digression may be made to the right, to visit the old Carmelo Mission,
the burial-place of Junipero Serra (see above), where the original church
has been supplied with a new roof. The remainder of the drive (5 M.)
runs through woods.
A favourite outing is to drive to (17 M.) Laurelles Ranch, to the S.,
a comfortable annex of the Del Monte, and to stay there for a day or two
(tariff as at the Del Monte). — Other pleasant drives are past the Carmelo
Mission (see above) to (10 M.) Point Lobos and inland to (20 M.) Salinas
(see below). — Carmel-by-ihe-Sea (Pine Inn, $ 2) is a charming little village
on Carmel Bay, 3 M. to the S.W. of Monterey (omnibus 25 c).
Good trout fishing is obtained in the Carmelo River. Fishing, also, in the
bay, where 'glass-bottom' boats may be hired, with a Japanese diver. Beer
and quail shooting may be enjoyed in the adjacent woods and mountains.
From Castroville the main line runs to the S.E. along the right
bank of the Salinas river, through the wide, wooded \alley of that
name. — 118 M. Salinas (Barden Ho,, from $2; Abbott Ho.), a
place with nearly 5000 inhab. Here are some huge oil-supply tanks
of the S. P. By. A stage runs from Salinas to (40 M.) Tassajara Hot
Springs (1500 ft.), over an unusually attractive road. — At (144 M.)
Soledad are the s'canty ruins of a mission founded in 1791. A
stage runs from here to (8 M.) Par also Springs (1400 ft.), in the
Santa Lucia Mountains. About 14 M. to the N.E. of Soledad are
the * Vancouver Pinnacles, a picturesque and imposing group of
rocky domes and monoliths. — 164 M. King's City is the point for
the carriage- drive to (26 M.) San Antonio Mission, the beautifully
situated ruins of one of the most famous of California Missions. Its
preservation is now the care of the 'Landmarks Club' (p. 538). — At
(208 M.) San Miguel the remains of the mission, founded in 1797, are
visible from the train. — 217 M. Paso Eobles (720 ft.; EL Paso de
526 Route 82. SAN LtJlS OBISPO. From San Francisco
Bohles Hotel, from $ 2^/2 ; Alexander, $ 1 V2-2) is situated in a vast
natural park of live-oak, from "wMcli its name ^El Paso de Robles'
('Pass of th.e Oaks') is derived. It is frequented for its liot sulphur
springs (95-110° Fahr.) and its mud baths (140° Fahr.), which are
efficacious in rheumatism , gout, and skin diseases. Among the many
pleasant drives from Paso Robles is that to (6 M.) Santa Ysabel
Hot Springs iu the hills to the E. — From Paso Robles the train
climbs gradually through a pass in the Santa Lucia Mountains, leaving
the fertile and wooded Salinas Valley. Beyond (236 M.) Santa
Margarita (995 ft.), at the head of the Salinas River , the line ascends
in windings to its highest point (1340 ft.), 4 M. farther on. We
then pass through seven tunnels and descend by a superb curve to
(253 M.) San Luis Obispo (240 ft. ; St. James, French, $ 2), apleasant
little town of about 3000 inhab., situated in a great grazing valley,
broken by cone-shaped foot-hiUs. The mission, founded in 1772 and
now disfigured by a poor modern steeple, has given its name to the
town, once the centre of Spanish wealth in this valley. To the N. of
the tovsTi is the State Polytechnic School.
From San Luis Obispo a stage runs daily to (7 M.) San Luis Obispo
Hot Sulphur Springs (Hotel, from $2), frequented, for their medicinal
properties.
From San Luis Obispo a short branch-Hne runs to (10 M.) Port Harford,
on the coast, whence regular slow-freight steamers, carrying a few passengers
run 1^. to San Francisco and S. to San Diego.
Another branch-line runs inland from San Luis Obispo to (32 M.) Santa
Maria, (54 M.) Los Alamos, and (66 M.) Los Olivos, whence a stage runs to
Gaviota (see below).
Our train now runs through a fiat grazing valley, with occasional
glimpses of the sea between the sand-dunes. 263 M. El Pizmo
(Hotel, $3-4), with a bathing-beach 20 M. long. — 277 M. Gua-
dalupe, the northernmost town in the huge Santa Barbara County,
which the traiu takes 3 hrs. to traverse. Its scenery is very pictur-
esque, and its coast, facing due S., is protected by a background of
mighty mountains and recalls the Riviera. The products of the
district include hay, beans, walnuts, lemons, beet-sugar, olives, olive-
oil, petroleum, poultry, and pigeons. — Beyond Guadalupe we cross
the long narrow Santa Maria Valley, with the San Rafael Sierra to
the E. From (303 M.) Surf onwards the sea is almost continuously
in sight to the right for over 100 M. farther south.
From Surf a branch-line runs to (10 M.) Lompoc^ in the Santa Maria
oil district. The crude petroleum is conveyed through pipelines to (35 M.)
the coast.
We pass Point Concepcion, with its lighthouse, and descend
gradually through a rolling grazing land between the sea and the
Santa Ynez Mts. to (340 M.) Gaviota, whence a stage runs daily
(fare $2) to (24 M.) Los Olivos (see above), across the Santa Ynez
Mts., affording a most delightful drive. At (356 M.) Naples we get a
good view of the four long islands forming a chain bounding and
protecting Santa Barbara channel. Our line turns inland through
orchards of olives and other fruit.
to Los Angeles. SANTA BARBARA. 82. Route. 527
371 M. Santa Barbara {*Potter, a large hotel on tlie shore, from
$ 3 ; Arlington, $2-4), a city of 6587 inhab., the 'American Mentone',
is charmingly situated on the coast-plain, at the base of the foot-
hills, with the Santa Ynez Mts., a little farther off, forming a fine
screen against the cold N. and W. winds. It has a well-deserved
reputation as one of the most attractive winter-resorts in California,
due to its mild, dry, and equable climate (mean temp., winter
50-55°, summer 65-70"), the beauty of its surroundings, the luxu-
riance of its roses and other flowers, the excellent bathing-beach
(with a large bathing-pavUion), and its pleasant society. The main
street, 2 M. long, is paved with asphalt and lined with substantial
business blocks. Behind these, in side-streets, are traces of the
Mexican and Spanish days, notably the low and wide adobe house,
with verandas around its courtyard, of Governor de la Guerra. Most
of the private houses are surrounded by delightful gardens. The
chief lion of the place is the old *Mission, founded by Padre Juni-
pero Serra (p. 525) in 1786. It lies on a hill -/^ M. to the N. of the
town, and may be reached by following the electric tramway which
diverges to the right from Main St. at the Arlington Hotel. The end
of the tramway-line is at the Mission, with its colonnaded front, red
roof, and two-towered church.
Visitors are admitted daily 8-11.30 & 1-5, oa Sun. 11-2.30 & 4-5 (ad-
mission to the inner garden by special permission only; small fee ex-
pected). The points shown include the plain whitewashed church (con-
taining a few paintings), refectory, dormitory, and garden. About a dozen
of the old Franciscan monks still remain. The Mission commands a
splendid *View (best from the church-tower) of Santa Barbara and the
Pacific, with the islands in the background. On the wall about 100 yds.
behind the Mission is a sun-dial with the inscription : 'Lux dei vitee viam
monstrat sed umbra horam atque fidem docet\
After visiting the Mission we may ascend the picturesque Mission Canyon
behind it, crossing the ancient stone bridge and turning to the left (sign-
post 'Up the Canyon"). The canyon contains some pretty waterfalls and one
of the finest olive-groves in California. Ifear its entrance, we get a glimpse
of Miradero, a sanitarium for nervous nvalids.
To the right, short of the bridge, is the steep approach to the (16 M.)
*Mountain Drive. The drive, which must be entered at this end, commands
beautiful views and comes out near the foot of Hot Springs Ave., whence
we may return via Monteciio, situated in a pretty valley, 4 M. to the E. of
Santa Barbara, with numerous beautiful gardens. The *Drive along the
slope between these gardens is well worth making.
On a hill about 1 M. to the E. of Montecito (sign-boards), at the head
of Hot Springs Avenue, are the Hot Springs (1900 ft. 5 temp. 114-118°), whence
a climb of V4 hr. brings us to Point Look Out, commanding a fine view. —
The ''San Ysidro Ranch ($ 12-25 weekly), about 2 M. beyond Montecito and
2 M. from Miramar (p. 528), has good accommodation for tourists and fine
orange and lemon groves. In the romantic San Ysidro Canyon are fine
waterfalls.
On the W. side of Santa Barbara is the fine (12 M.) Cliff Drive. The
road runs near the W. shore, passing around the Dibblee Mansion and grounds,
situated on a height just outside the town (*View), continues as far as the
lighthouse, and returns by way of Hope Ranch and Lake.
Another drive (3-4 hrs.), perhaps the finest of all, leaves Santa Barbara
on the N.W, for the -San Marco Pass (2225 ft.) leading to the Santa Ynez
Valley^ with two old missions. The road winds round the precipitous sides
of the hills, which are clad with beautiful shrubs, and beyond the summit
528 RouU 82. VENTURA. From San Francisco
of the pass descends rapidly amidst woods. Good luncheon is ohtainable
at Cold Springs Mountain Resort (well spoken of). — La JPiedra Pintado
('painted rock'), an interesting relic of aboriginal art, is on the Santa Tnez
Mts., near the San Marco Pass.
Among other noted points near Santa Barbara are Sycamore Canyon
(2 M.), BartletVs Canyon (10 M.), QUn Annie (13 M.), Goleta (8 M.), Ortega
Hill (5 M.), Crocker Ranch (8 M.), EolUster's Ranch (12 M.), with a beautiful
avenue of date-palms, and Cooper''s Ranch (15 M.), with a large olive-grove.
Near the town we may notice the Chinese vegetable gardens, the fields of
Pampas grass (cultivated for its plumes), and the groves of walnut. Flowers
grow here most luxuriantly; at a flower-show in Santa Barbara 160 varie-
ties of roses were exhibited, all cut from one garden on the same morning.
— The curions nest of the Trapdoor Spider is often found near Santa Bar-
bara. — Travellers on the mountains should be careful to avoid the poison
oak shrub, contact with which is apt to be troublesome.
Ocean Yachts make excursions, on a usually perfectly calm sea, to
various points on the coast and to the islands of Santa Cruz (26 M.) and
Santa Rosa (81 M.). The former is the larger of the two and is inhabited
by a few farmers. The beautiful Abalone shells are found in great abun-
dance on these islands. — In the bed of the ocean, about 10 M. to the S.E.
of Santa Barbara and IV2 M. from shore, is a huge spring of petroleum, the
oil from which may be seen floating on the surface in calm weather, one
of many similar submarine oil-welJs on this coast.
Steamers ply regularly from Santa Barbara to (280 M.) San Francisco
(p. 509), San Diego (p. 538), San Pedro (p. 534), etc.
Beyond Santa Barbara oui line passes througli (373 M.) Miramar
(Miramar Cottages, $ 15 a week) and Montecito (p. 527) to (377 M.)
Summerland, where tlie presence of submarine oil-wells is evident.
382 M. Carpinteria, with a grape-vine covering a trellis 100 ft.
square, having a trunk 8 ft. in circumference, and sometimes
hearing 15-20,000 Ihs. of grapes (several times more than the yield
of the famous vine at Hampton Court). Here, and beyond, we run
close to the sea, the mountains at places barely leaving room for the
tracks (views to the right).
399 M. Ventura, the railroad name for San Buenaventura (50 ft. ;
Rose, from $2^/2; Anacapa, from $2), a city of 2460 inhab., pleas-
antly situated at the mouth of the valley of the Ventura, carries on
a large trade in lima beans (a staple food along the coast) and other
vegetables, fruits, nuts, sugar-beets, grain, and petroleum oil. It is
also a health-resort. The well-preserved chapel of the Spanish Mis-
sion (founded 1782) dates from 1809 and is still in use.
A branch-line runs hence to the N. to (16 M.) Nordhoff (The Foothills,
from $3; Ojai Inn, from §2), a mountain village in the beautiful *Ojai
Valley ('Ohigh'), at a height of 700-1400 ft., surrounded by au amphitheatre
of mountains, of which Mt. Topotopo (6350 ft.) is the chief. This valley is
a favourite winter resort, having an exceptionally fine climate. It is full
of live-oaks and other trees and is exceedingly rich in wild flowers,
404 M. Montalvo is the junction of the line to Saugus.
From Montalvo to Sadgi-s, 45 M., railway in 13/4 hr. This line runs
to the E. up the Santa Clara Valley (not to be confused with the valley of
the same name farther to the N. ; see p. 522). At (4 M.) Saiicoy we lose
sight of the sea. 12 M. Santa Paula, a busy little place, in the midst of
truck-farms, smaU vineyards, and grazing fields. We cross the Santa Clara
River near (29 M.) Pirn, a pretty town among orange, lemon, and pepper trees,
and oil-wells. At (31 M.) Camulos, on the right, is seen the home of
'Ramona\ a typical Spanish ranch. — 40 M. Castaic The mountains now
to Los Angeles. MERCED. 82. Route. 529
close in-, on the N. are the foot-hilla of the San Eafael Range, on the S.
the higher peaks of the Sierra San Fernando. — 45 M. Saugus, the junction
of the San Joaqxiin Valley line (see p. 531).
From Montalvo the coast-liue runs to the S.E. to (408 M.)
Oxnard (2000 inhab.), situated amid a fertile sugar-beet country and
containing large sugar-factories. We now turn to the E. to (438 M.)
Santa Susana, in a narrow valley between the Sierra San Fernando
on the N. and the Sierra de Santa Monica on the S. About 4 M.
farther on we enter a newly cut tunnel, IY2 M- long. At (446 M.)
Chatsworth Park, the first town in Los Angeles County and the centre
of a famed hay-district, are the vast quarries that supply the stone
for the government breakwater at San Pedro (p. 534). Here the line
reaches the Los Angeles River, crossing it at (457 M.) Encino, and
runs, following its left bank, through a dry sandy valley to (465 M.)
Burhank, on the San Joaquin Valley line (p. 531). Hence to —
475 M. Los Angeles, see p. 531 .
b. Vi& the San Joaquin Valley.
484 M. Southern Pacific Railway in 15-21 hrs. (fare $ 14; sleeper $ 2.50).
From San Francisco^ via Oakland, to (32 M.) Port Costa, see
p. 466. From (39 M.) Avon a branch-road runs to (13 M.) Wal-
nut Creek and (20 M.) San Ramon (see p. 519). At (50 M.) Corn-
wall we leave Suisun Bay (p. 465) and turn towards the S.
About 2 M. to the S. of (68 M.) Byron are the Byron Hot Springs
(130° Fahr. ; Hotel, from $ 3). — 83 M. Tracy (65 ft.) is the junction
of the old route to San Francisco via Livermore (famous for its
Sautemes) and Niles and of a line to Fresno (p. 530) via Los Banos
and Mendota, on the W. side of the San Joaquin ('"Wahkeen') River.
A little farther on we cross the San Joaquin and reach (dAM.) Lathrop
(20 ft.; Hotel, with rail, restaurant, $ IV4)) t^i© junction of the old
line to Sacramento via Stockton (p. 465).
"We now ascend the great San Joaquin Valley, the granary of
California, 200 M. long and 30 M. wide, producing endless crops of
grain and fruit, including oranges, figs, olives, raisins, and grapes.
Irrigation is practised here on a gigantic scale, and many oil-wells are
seen. 114 M. Modesto (85 ft. ; 2024 inhab.). 127 M. Turlock (105 ft. ;
650 inhab.). — 152 M. Merced (170 ft.; 1969 inhab.; Cosmopolis,
Central, $ 2), a thriving trading and shipping centre, is the starting-
place of the chief route to the Yosemite Valley (see p. 542). Various
rivers are crossed. — 178 M. Berenda (250 ft.) is the junction of a
branch-line to (21 M.) Raymond, forming one of the approaches to
the Yosemite Valley (see R. 86). The Sierra Nevada is visible to the
left, including Mts. LyeU (13,090 ft.), Tyndall (14,386 ft.), Whit-
ney (14,502 ft), and Goddard (13,602 ft.). — 185 M. Madera
(272 ft.) , a shipping - point for timber, brought from the moun-
tains by a 'flume', 58 M. long. Near (197 M.) Herndon we cross
Baedeker's United States. 4th Edit. 34
530 Route 82. TULARE. From 8an Francisco
the San Joaqnin. — 207 M. Fresno (290 ft.; Hughes, Sequoia, R.
from $ 1), a well-built and well-paved city with 20,000 inhab., is
tlje centre of a large raisin-growing district, which annnally pro-
duces 75,000,000 pounds of raisins. The annual value of these and
its other products, comprising brandy, olive-oil, fruits, grain, lumber,
and dairy produce, amounts to at least $ 15,000,000. The water
necessary for irrigation is brought from the mountains by an exten-
sive system of canals.
From Fresno a loop-line runs via (52 M.) Exeter to (105 M.) Famoso
(see below), where it rejoins the main line. On this line lies (20 M.) Sanger
Junction (hotel), whence a tri-weekly stage runs to (45 M.) Millwood (5600 ft. ;
Oamp $2; through return-fare from San Francisco $19.40). About IV2 M.
to the S. of the latter lies the General Orant Park, comprising 125 mammoth
trees, including 'General Grant, one of the largest Sequoias known (106 ft.
in circumference at its base). About 7 M. farther to the S. lies the Sequoia
National Park (p. 484). A road is now being constructed from Millwood
to the King's River Canyon (see p. 484).
At (227 M.) Kingshurg (395 ft.) we cross King's River by a trestle-
bridge. — 241 M. Goshen (285 ft.) is the junction of a line running
to the W. to the productive oU-flelds of (55 M.) Coalinga and (60 M.)
Alcalde, and of another running to the E., via (8 M.) Visalia (p. 484),
to (17 M.) Exeter, on the above-mentioned loop-lLue from Fresno
to Famoso.
251 M. Tulare (285 ft.; Grand Hotel, $1-2), a flourishing little
town with 2216 inhabitants. To the S. of Tulare is one of the Cali-
fornia Experiment Stations for testing fruits, seeds, and grains.
The irrigation in this district is largely provided by artesian wells,
the water being raised by electric pumps.
About 7 M. to the W. of (262 M.) Tipton (270 ft.) lies Tulare
Lake, a large body of water, at one time over 50 M. long, but whieh
is gradually drying up. 282 M. Delano. From (294 M.) Famoso
coaches also run to (60 M.) the Sequoia National Park (p. 484). —
From (310 M.) Oil Junction a line runs to (6 M.) Oil City, in one
of the more important oil-districts. — 314 M, Bakersfield (420 ft. ;
Southern, from $21/25 Grand, $21/2), witli 4836 inhabitants.
From Bakeesfield to Olig, 50 M., railway in 3 hrs. This line runs
to the W., traversing one of the rich oil regions of the Upper San Joaquin
valley, of which Bakersfield is the central shipping and marketing centre.
Pipe-lines lead from this region to (300 M.) Port Richmond, for loading into
vessels in the bay of San Francisco. This oil has greatly developed the
manufacturing possibilities of the State (comp. p. 512), its cost as fuel being
only one-third that of coal. Bakersfield is becoming a busy manufacturing
town, and factory-chimneys and oil-derricks are now much in evidence.
The grain and fruit lands of this region (150,000 acres) are irrigated by
3300 M. of canals, supplied with water by the Kern Kiver.
At (336 M.) Caliente (1290 ft.) we leave the San Joaquin YaUey
and begin to ascend the *Teh.dchapiPass, which crosses the Sierra
Nevada between this valley and the Desert of Mojave. The line
winds backwards and forwards and finally, at the *Loop (3050 ft),
crosses its own track, at a height of about 80 ft. above the tunnel
it has just threaded. Eight other short tunnels are passed through
to Los Angeles. MOJAVE. 52. Route. 531
before the summit is gaiaed at (362 M.) Tehachapi (3965 ft.),
beyond whicb the train mns along a platean for some miles, pass-
ing a small salt lake, before beginning the descent to the desert.
371 M. Cameron (3790 ft.).
382 M. Mojave ('Mohahve"; 2755 ft.; Railway Hotel, $ 3), the
junction of the Santa Fi and the Southern Pacific Railroads (see
p. 484), is a handful of wooden shanties on the edge of the cheer-
less Mojave Desert described at p. 483. A large mining country is
tributary to it. The Los Angeles line runs towards the S. across
the desert, forming an almost absolutely straight line for many miles.
Mt. San Antonio (p. 486) is seen in front, to the left, while'^the
San Bernardino Mts. are faintly seen on the horizon (farther to the
left). 396 M. Rosamond (2325 ft.). Beyond (407 M.) Lancaster
(2355 ft.) we quit the desert for a hilly country, passing through
several short tunnels and crossing the Soledad Pass (3200 ft.).
417 M. Harold (2820 ft); 427 M. Acton (2670ft.). We now descend
steadily, through cuttings and over bridges.
452 M. Saugus (1170 ft.) is the junction of a branch-line to
Montalvo (see p. 528).
The Los Angeles line runs towards the S. and beyond (454 M.)
Newhall (hotel), a grain and cattle point, penetrates the San Fernando
Mts. (ca. 3000 ft.) by a tunnel 1 1/4 M. long (1470 ft. above the sea),
and traverses a gap amid brown hills with live-oaks. The Valley of San
Fernando, which we now enter, is a great grazing valley, and its green
orange and olive groves form a strong contrast to the desert we have
been traversing. 463 M. Fernando (1068 ft.), with the ruins of the
Spanish Mission of San Fernando. 474M. Burbank (565ft.), famous for
its alfalfa, is the junction of the main Coast line (see p. 529). 478 M.
Tropico (435 ft.) is famed for its strawberries ('Tropico beauties').
484 M. Los Angeles (290 ft.), see below.
83. Los Angeles.
Railway Stations. Southern Pacific (PI. E, 3), Fifth St.; Santa Fi
{Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fi; PI. F, 2, 3), Santa Fe Ave.; Salt Lake
{San Pedro, Los Angeles, and Salt Lake; PI. F, 2, 3), First St.
Hotels. Angelus (PI. g; D, 2), cor. of 4th and Spring Sts., from $4, E,.
from $2; Alexandkia (PI. a; D, 2, 3), 5th St., R. from $2; Westminster
(PI. i; E, 2), cor. of 4th and Main Sts., R. from $11/2; Lankeeshim
(PI. 1; D, 3), cor. of 7th St. and Broadway, E. from § IV2; Van Ndts Hotel
(PI. b ; E, 2), cor. of 4th and Main Sts., R. $ 1-5; Hollenbeck (PI. c; E, 2),
cor. of 2nd and Spring Sts., R. from $1; Hatward (PI. h; D, 3), cor. of
6th and Spring Sta., R. from $ 1 ; Nadeau (PL n ; E, 2), cor. of Ist and Spring Sts.,
R. from $ 1; Melrose (PI. m; D, E, 2), 120 Grand Ave., from $ 2; Fremont
(PI. f ; D, 2), 4th St., from $ 21/2, R. from $ 1 ; Rossltn (PI. 0 ; E, 2, 3), Main St.,
near 5th St., from $ I1/2, R. from 75 c. — The following hotels are farther
from the centre of the city : Alvarado (PI. d; B, C, 1), cor. 6th and Alvarado
Sts., from $ 3; Pepper (PI. p; C, 2), cor. 7th St. and Burlington Ave.;
Leiqhton (PI. e; B, 1); Hershet Arms (PI. k; B 1).
34*
532 Route 83. LOS ANGELES. History.
Restaurants. At all the larger hotels; also, Levy's, 3rd and Main Sts. ;
The Bristol^ N.E. cor. > f Jth and Sprin- S s. ; Christopher^ s , 211 S. Spring St.,
Woman !i Exchange, 3rd and Hill Sts. (these two for ladieO-
Electric Cars (5 c) traverse the chief streets and run to the suburbs. —
''Seeing Los Angeles'" ubxervation Cars and Automobiles (comp. p. 19), with
guides, twice daily (50 c.).
Clubs. Jonat'ian, cm. 6th and Main Sts. ; California, cor. 5th and Hill
Sts.; Los Angeles Country Club, cor. v\ extern Ave. and Pico St. (beyond
PI. A, 3); ^oinan-s Club (p. 535), 940 S. Figueroa St.
Places of Amusement. Auditorium Theatre (PI. D, 2), cor. 5th and
Olive Sts.; Selasco Theatre (PI E, 2), Jlain St., near 3id St. ; Burbank Theatre
(PI. U, E, 3), Main St.. near 5t'i St.; Mason Opera House (PI E,2), Broadway,
between 1st and '2nd Sts.; Grand Theatre (Pi E, 'J), cor. Ma n and 1st Sts.;
Orpheum (PI E, 2), Spring St., near 3rd St. (vaudeville); Chutes, Main and
Washington Sts.
Post Office (PI. E, 2), Federal Building, Temple St. (temporary post
office at S.W. cor. of (ih & Grand Sts., PI. D, H).
British Vice-Consul, Mr. Charles White Mortimer, 71 Temple Building.
Hotel and Travel Bureaus. Peck-Judah Co.., 553 S. Spring St.; The
Times Travel and Hotel Bureau, 531 S. Spriug St.
Los Angeles., or La Puebla de Nuestra Senora la Reina de Los
Angeles ('City of Our Lady the Queen of the Angels'; g hard), the
metropolis of the S. part of California, lies on the Los Angeles River,
20 M. above its mouth and 15 M. in a direct line from the Pacific
Ocean. It was founded by the Spaniards in 1781 and passed into
Amerif^an possession in 1846. It was, however, of no great impor-
tance till after 1880, when it underwent an almost unpreoedentedly
rapid increase in wealth and population. Its population rose from
11,183 in 1880 to 50,895 in 1890 and to 102,479 in 1900 (now prob-
ably 200,000), and its adobe honses have given place almost entirely
to stone and brick business blocks and mansions and tasteful wooden
residences, some of the latter showing an effective use of Spanish-
Moorish architecture. It is now a crowded and lively town of wi.de
streets and spacious side-walks, with an extensive residential quarter,
130 churches, over 60 public schools, and about 1700 manufactories,
with a total annual produce of the value of $ 50,000,000. It publishes
newspapers in seven languages.
Los AngeJe-; is a railway-centre of great importance and a focus of
the characteristic Califorman industry of fruit-growing. The plains and val-
leys arnund it are covered with vineyard-*, olive, orange, and lemon groves,
and orchards. In lviOb-7 the value of the fresh fruit produ ed in Los An-
geles County amounted to $ 6,213,539, that of dried fruit and vegetables to
I 1,462,429. and that of canned truit and vegetables to 5417,215 Los An-
geles is also the centre of a di-^trict that produces petroleum and asphalt.
Though less specifically a health resort than some other places in
California, Los Angeles enjoy.'* a mild and equable climate, wiih a tendency
to coolness at night (mean annual temp., .Ian. 54% Aug. 72°). The city,
especially the residential quarters, is embowered in vegetation, among
the characteristic features of which are the swift-growing eucalyptus, the
graceful pepper tree, many palms, Norfolk Island pines, Live-oaks, india-
rubber trees, orange-trees, roses, geraniums, yuccas, century plants, bananas,
calla lilies, and pomegranates. M. Jules Huret calls Los Angeles one of
the lew really beautiful cities in the United States.
The South Part of California, of which Los Angeles is the principal city,
possesses, perhaps, an all-the-y ear-round climate that approaches perfection
as nearly as any other known to us. It is a semi-tropical climate with
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City Hall. LOS ANGELES. 83. Route. 533
little frost, no snow, and moderate winter rains, remarkable for its
equableness and dryness. Winter and summer are terms that here lose
tbeir ordinary significance their place being taken by what 'may almost be
called a perpetual spring. Sea-bathing may be practised in Dec. or Jan.,
while the dryness of the atmosphere and the ocean bree/.es make the
summer mach less trying than in places farther to tbe E. The wild ilowers
of California, of which ttje (iolden popi>y ( Escfisrholtzia Cali/ornica) is one
of the most characteristic, are extraordinary in number, variety, ad brill-
iancy. 'The greatest surprise of the traveller is that a region which is
in perpetual bluom and fruitage, where semi-trnpical fruits mature in
perfection, and the most delicate flowers daz le the eye with color the
winter through, should have on the whole a 1"W temperature, a climate
never enervating, and one requiring a dress of woollen in every month'
(Warnerl. Comp. 'Our Italy', bv Clias. Dudley Warner; 'To California
and Back', by G. A. Higgna (1903); 'Southern California", by C. A. Keeler
(1903); 'Glimpses of California", b\ H. E. Jackson (new ed., 1! 02)-, 'The Land
of Little Ra n\ by Mary Austin (1903); and 'The "Wonders of the Colo-
rado Desert of Southern California , by O. W. James (lb06).
Bhoadway (PL D, E, 3, 2), ranning parallel to Main Street (PI.
C-F, 5-1), the dividing line for E. and W. (as First St., PI. C-G,
1,2, is forN. and S.), contains many substantial buildings. Among
these are the City Hall (PI. D, E, 2j, between 2nd and 3rd Sts., and
the new Chamber of Commerre (PI. E, 2). The latter contains an
interesting collection of California products, the Palmer collection
of Indian antiquities, and the Coronel collection, illustrating the
Spanish period. Here is also the first cannon brought to California
by Padre Junipero Serra (p. 52')) in 1769. In Temple St., near
Broadway, stands the County Court House (PI. E, 2). The Public
Library (Fl. E, 2), at the S.E. cor. of Broadway and 3rd St., con-
tains over 110,000 volumes.
Other edifices worthy of mention are the Womaris Club, in the
Mission-Renaissance' style (940 S. Figueroa St. ; PL C. D, 2, 3),
the State Normd School (cor. Grand Ave. and 5th St.). the Security
Saoings Bank (cor. Spring and 5th Sts.). the Union Trust and
Hellman Baildinga (at opposite corners of Spring and 4th Sts.), the
Audit rium (PL D, 2; cor. 5th and Olive Sts.), the F. M. C. A.
(PL D, 2, 3; Hope St., between 7th and 8th Sts.). the Y. W. C. A.
(PI. D, 2; cor. Hill and 3rd Sts.), the Farmers and Merchants
National Bank (cor. 4th and Main Sts.), the Grant Building (cor.
Broadway and 4th St.), Hamhurgers (cor. Broadway and 8th St.),
Merchants Trust (207 Broadway), and the International Bank (cor.
Temple, Spring, andMainSts.). The Viaduct of the Electric Tramway,
in San Fernando St. (PI. E, F, 1), spanning the railway tracks on
the E. side of the city, is an interesting piece of engineering. Los
Angeles also contains many Parks, including the Griffith Park of
3000 acres, and the Eastlake Park (beyond PL G, 1) and Westlake
Park (PL B, 1, 2), each with a small lake. The TJninersity of Southern
California (PL B, 5; 1260 students) is situated at Wesley Ave. and
35th St There Is a new and model Racecourse in the suburbs. The
small plaza, with the Old Mis4on Church (PI. E, 2), at the N. end of
the business-town, Is Interesting as a survival of the ancient settlement.
534 Route 83. LOS ANGELES. Excursions.
Jnst beyond is a genuine Chinatown (PI. E, F, 2; comp. p. 515),
keeping many; of tlie original adobe stractoies. Sonora Town, tlie
surbnrb to the N., remains unchanged since Fremont hoisted the flag
in 1846. An excellent view of the city can be obtained from the
tower at ^Angel's Flight\ cor. Hill and 3rd Sts. (PL D, 2). A visit
may also be paid to the oil belt, with its curious pumps. Opposite
Eastlake Park (p. 533) is an * Ostrich Farm, where some 200 adult
birds may be seen (adm. 25 c).
Los Angeles is a busy centre fur short trips, chiefly made now by electric
cars, which are both more frequent and more accessible than the steam
railways. Round trip tickets may be procured either from the conductor
or at the offices (latter advisable on crowded days to ensure a seat). The
Los Angeles & Pacific R. R. Co. has its office at 316 W. 4th St. ; the Los
Angeles & Redondo R. R. Co. at 217 W. 2nd St.; the Pacific Electric Ry. Co..,
at the cor. of 6th and Main Streets (PI. D, E, 3; also station); and the Los
Angeles Railway Co. in the same building.
Feom Los Ai^GELES to Santa Monica, 17 M., Southern Pacific Railway
in 58 min. ; or Los Angeles & Pacific electric car in 1 hr. (round-trip 50 c. ;
cars every 1/2 hr. ; four routes ; advisable to go one way and return another).
— On the way we pass Hollywood, a suburb of charming homes, and Saw-
telle, with the Pacific branch of the National Soldiers' Home (2000 veterans).
— Santa Monica (North Beach, R. from $ 2; Clarendon, from $ 2), a popular
seaside-resort, has a good beach, on which surf-bathins may be enjoyed
all the year round (bath-house with warm-water swimming-pool). About
3 M. off is Port Los Angeles, with a large wharf. The trip may be ex-
tended to the S. along the shore througha succession of seaside resorts,
such as Ocean Park (Decatur Hotel, $3), Venice (with canals, etc., in imi-
tation of its European namesake), Playa del Rey, and Moonstone Beach, to
Redondo.
Feom Los Angeles to Redondo, by the Santa Fi Railway (one train),
23 M., in 11/4 hr. \ or by electric cars (20 M. ; hourly ; round-trip 50 c). — The
Los- Angeles- Pacific cars proceed to Playa del Rey, and then along the coast
to Redondo. — The Los Angeles tt Redondo Ry. proceeds either via Jnglewood,
a pleasant town of suburban homes , or via Oardena. — Redondo {"Redondo
Hotel, from $ 21/2), another pleasant sea-bathing resort, has a beautiful
beach and good facilities for boating and fishing. The great Tent City for
summer residents, with its large Auditorium accommodating 4000 people, is
a novel feature. There is a deep-water pier, and Redondo is becoming of
importance asa shipping-port. Steamers ply hence to San Francisco and
San Diego.
Fbom Los Angeles to Long Beach, 21 M., Salt Lake Railway (see p. 535),
or Southern Pacific, in ^/t hr., or Pacific Electric Railway (every 2U min. ;
round-trip 50 c.). — Long Reach (Virginia, new; Riviera, $2-8; Del Mar,
R. from §1; Julian, $2-2V2), a frequented summer-resort, with 2250 in-
hab., has an excellent beach, a bath-house with 280 swimming-pools, a pier
extending 1800 ft. into the sea, and other attractions. The electric railway
goes on along the shore to (40 M.) Newport Bay.
The so-called Grkat Surf Route forms a pleasant circular tour of
100 M. (fare $1). We take a car of the^ Pacific Electric Railway (6th and
Main Sts.) at 10.15 a.m. and proceed via Compton (the centre of the dairy
district), the famous Dominguez Ranch, and thence on through orchards
and ranches to Sunset Beach, whence the car runs along the shore to Long
Beach (see above), where a steamer is taken for San Pedro and return.
The car regains Los Angeles at 4.45 p.m.
From Los Angeles to San Pedro, 22 M., Southern Pacific Railway in
50 min., or Pacific Electric Railway (hourly; round-trip 50 c). — 5M. Florence,
the junction of the line to San Diego (p. 538); 10 M. Compton; 18 M.
Thenard, the junction of a branch-line to (4 M.) Long Beach (see above);
19 M. Wilmington, a small seaport. — 22 M. San Pedro (Oxford, Colonial,
S 2), with 1787 inhab., is the chief seaport of Los Angeles and Pacific
t-^^
^
.^J^
Excursions. LOS ANGELES. 83. Route. 535
terminus of the Salt Lake Route (comp. p. 503 and below). Its harbour has
been improved at great cost, and the National Government is now con-
structing a huge breakwater here. Steamers ply hence regularly to San
Francisco, Santa Barbara, San Diego, Catalina, etc. — San Pedro naay also
be reached by the Salt Lake Railway (27 M., in 1 hr.), which runs via ('21 M.)
Long Beach (p. 534) and ends at East San Pedro, on Rattlesnake Island.
[From San Pedro steamers ply regularly to (25 M.) *Santa Catalina
(round trip from Los Angeles $2^/4), a beautiful mountainous island, with
fine rocky coasts, which has lately been much frequented for its delightful
climate (usual temperature 60-70° Fahr.) and excellent fishing (tuna, flying
fish). The only resort is Avalon (Meiropole, $3-7, R. from $1; "Orand
View, from $ IV2, simple; numerous boarding-houses and lodgings), situated
on the N.E. side of the island, facing a crescent-shaped bay under the lee
of the mountains. Trips in glass-bottomed boats, with open-sea aquarium
in sight below (so-called 'Marine Gardens'), golf, and inland drives are among
the diversions of the place. Wild flowers are very abundant. Avalon has
the credit of having started the first newspaper ('The Wireless') entirely
dependent on wireless dispatches, which are sent daily by its correspondent
at Los Angeles. — See 'Santa Catalina', by G. F. Holder.]
From Los Angeles to San Gabeiel, by Southern Pacific Railway, 9 M.,
in Vzhr. (comp. p. 549), or by Pacific Electric cars (every 1/2 hr). The route
passes Stoneman's Ranch (p. 537) and Shorb (p. 549). — San Gabriel, with
its mission church, see p. 549.
From Los Angeles to Sierea Madee, the so-called 'Mission and Orange
Grove Route' (fare $1). We take a car of the Pacific Electric Railway
(see above) at 9.40 a.m., stopping at San Gabriel Mission (p. 549), Baldwin's
Ranch (see below ; time allowed for luncheon and for inspection of the estate),
and (17 M.) Sierra Madre (see below). The return is made via Pasadena and
the Ostrich Farm (p. 534), and Los Angeles is regained at 3.20 p.m.
From Los Angeles to Monrovia, 18 M., Pacific Electric Go. every 1/2 hr.
This is. perhaps, the pleasante'^t trolley-trip near Los Angeles, running through
orange-groves and affording the best view of the San Bernardino Mts. The
route passes (17 M.) Arcadia, the station for Baldioin''s Ranch, with a race-
track and the best stud of thoroughbred horses in the West. — Monrovia
(Vista Grande Hotel, $2-372) naay also be reached by railway (comp.
pp. 486, 549).
From Los Angeles to North Glendale, 10 M., Pacific Electric Railway
in V2 hr. (fare 15 c. ; return-fare 25 c). Near the terminus is the Casa
Verdugo, a restaurant in the Spanish style.
From Los Angeles to Mt. Lowe, by Pacific Electric Railway (return-
fare $ 2.50). This trip may be made in a short day, starting at 9 or 10 a.m.
and regaining Los Angeles between 8 and 6 p.m. — For a description of
the route, see p. 537.
From Los Angeles to Mt. Wilson. The Pacific Electric Railway is
taken to (17 M.) Sierra Madre (return-fare 50 c), whence the ascent is made
by 'burros' ($ 2).
Trip round the 'Kite- Shaped Track' (166 M.). This popular excursion
by the Santa Fe R. R. may be made in one day (with start at 8.30 a.m.) or
may be spread over several days (fare $3, with stopovers; Sun, excursion,
returning same day, $ 2.05). — The train runs via Pasadena (p. 536), Santa
Anita (p. 486), Upland (p. 486), and San Bernardino (p. 485) to (69 M.)
Redlands (1350 ft. 5 *'Gasa Loma, from $ 3; Wissahickon Inn, from $21/2;
Hill Crest Inn), an orange-growing city with 4797 inhab., finely situated on
the slopes of the foot-hills, with good views of the San Bernardino Mts.
(N.) and Mt. San Jacinto (S.). Time is allowed here for luncheon or for a
drive to the beautiful "Smiley Heights and Prospect Park. Leaving Redlands
(about 1 p.m.), we return via (72 M.) Mentone and (79 M.) Highland to (87 M.)
San Bernardino, whence we proceed over the larger loop, via Colton (p. 550),
to Riverside (p. 486), where the train halts for about 2 hrs., to allow of a
drive (comp. p. 486). Thence we return to (166 M.) Los Angeles via Ga&a
Blanca, Gorona, Orange (p. 538), Anaheim (p. 537), La Mirada, and Redondo
Junction (p. 537).
536 Route 84. PASADENA.
The 'Inside Tback Flyeb' of the Southern Pacific Eailway flSt) M.)
offers an excursion similar to that just described, lasting from 8.55 a.m.
to 6.50 p.m. (fare $ 3). It takes us via San Gabriel, Pomona, Ontario, and
Colton (see pp. 549, 550) to Riverside (p. 486; halt of about 2 hrs ), then via
Loma Linda (Loma Linda Hotel) to Redlands (p. 535; stop of 21/3 hrs.), and
finally back via Pomona and Covina to Los Angeles.
[From Redlands (p. 535) a coach (fine views) runs thrice weekly via
(18 M.) Fredalba to (41 M.) Bear Valley (6400 it. ; Henry s Hotel), where a
gigantic reservoir has been formed by damming up a mountain-gorge.]
The so-called 'Balloon Eodte' of the Los Angeles Pacific Co. gives a
circuit of 70 M., including 28 M. along the Ocean, for a fare of $1.
From Los Angeles to Pasadena, see below ; to San Diego, see R. 85; to
Santa Barbara &ni. San Francisco, see R. 82; to New Orleans, etc., see R. 110.
84. From Los Angeles to Pasadena.
Pasadena, which lies about 10 M. to the N.E. of Los Angeles may be
reached either by steam - railway or electric car. The lines of the San
Pedro, Los Angeles, & Salt Lake Railwat and the Santa Ffi Railway,
both a=cend the valley of the Arroyo Seco ('dry river'), pa'^sing several small
intermediate stations and taking about 1/2 hr. to the trip (return-fare 25 c).
The Southern Pacific Railway route via Shorb (p. 549; 11 M., in 1/2 hr.)
is a little longer (same price).
The Pacific Electric Railway offers three different routes to Pasa-
dena, taking 1/2-^, 4 hr. (fare 15 c. ; return-fare 25 c).
Pasadena (830 ft. ; * Hotel Oreen, with large annex, $ 4-8, E.
from $2; Raymond; La Pintoresca, from $3; * Maryland, $3-6;
Casa Grande, $ 3-5, these two open all the year ; many smaller hotels
and boarding-houses), a thriving business city and health-resort
(9117 inhab. in 1900), lies on the level floor of the fertile -San Ga-
briel Valley, about 5 M. from the base of the Sierra Madre Range
(2000-11.000 ft.). To theS.E. rises Oak Knoll, a smaU hiU command-
ing a splendid *View across the valley, with its glossy-green orange-
groves, to the snow-topped wall of the Sierra Madre. Mt. San Antonio
(p. 486), in the San Bernardino Range, is seen overtopping the Sierra
Madre to the N.E., while the San Jacinto Alts. (p. 550) are visible
on the S.E. horizon. To the S. and S.W. lies the ocean, with the
mountainous islands of Santa Catalina (p. 535) and San Clemente
(with its curious rivers of sand and relics of an unknown race).
The city of Pasadena is well laid out and contains good Schools,
Churches, a *Public Library (notable for its excellent management),
an Opera House, and other substantial buildings. The wealth of
vegetation in the streets and gardens includes the eucalyptus, pepper-
trees, olives, lemon and orange trees, cork and india-rubber trees,
date and fan palms, bananas, guavas, Japanese persimmons, locust
trees, and other trees and shrubs too numerous to name. The annual
Floral Parade ^^ Rose Tournament (Jan. 1st) attracts thousands of
onlookers from Los Angeles and elsewhere. The roads in the neigh-
bourhood are good, and many pleasant drives may be made. Comp.
'All about Pasadena', by C. F. Holder.
One of the most popular excursions from Pasadena is the ascent of
Echo Mountain ^^nd of Mount Lowe (see p. 53T). — The ascent of 'Ml;. Wilson
ALTADENA. 84. Route. 537
ft.) is generally accomplislied by the electric tramway to (5 M.) Sierra
Madre (25 c.; comp. p. 535) and thence to the summit over a good trail
by burro ($ 2). At the top is the Solar Observatory of the Carnegie In-
stitution (p. 222). The *View is extensive and very beautiful. This trip may
be pleasantly spread over two days by passing the night at the Mt. Wilson
Hotel ($ 3), on the top, or at Strain's Camp ($ 2), on the N. side, V2 31.
below the top. The ascents of Mt. Lowe and Mt. Wilson are also often
made from Santa Anita (p. 486). — The *San Gabriel Mission (p. 549)
lies 3V2 M. to the S.E. of Pasadena; the road to it leads through large
orange-groves. — Among other easily accessible points of interest near
Pasadena are Stoneman's Ranch, with fine orange-groves, 1 M. to the S.;
Sunny Slope Winery , 31/2 M. to the E. ; the Shorb or San Gabriel Winery, 21/2 M.
to the S.; Baldwin's Ranch (p. 535), 5 M. to the E.; the Ostrich Farm
(adm. 25 c), IV2 M. to the S.W. ; Millar ds'' Canyon, 5 M. to the If. ; Arroyo
Seco Canyon, 5 M. to the X.W., reached via the Devil's Gate (tramway);
Linda Vista, 2 M. to the N.E_; and 'La Canada Valley, 41/2 M. to the N.W. The
last five points may be easily combined in one circular drive. Mt. Disap-
pointment (5200 ft.) and Browns Peak (5300 ft.) may be ascended (with guide)
by those who are fond of mountain-climbing. Mt. San Antonio, 27 M. to
the N.E., is best ascended from Upland (=ee p. 486).
The sportsman will find abundance of game for his gun in the vicinity
of Pasadena, including bears in the remoter recesses of the mountains.
Coursing is also practised, the hares or jack-rabbits affording good sport.
Beyond Pasadena tlie 'Short Route' of the Pacific Electric Co.
(see p. 536) goes on to (6 M.) Altadena (1300 ft.), near the foot of
the Sierra Madre. Immense tracts here are covered iu winter by
brilliant poppies.
From Altadena the Pacific Electbic Railway, starting from Los
Angeles, runs to (21/2 M.) the Rubio Falls in the Rubio Canyon (1900 ft.),
whence a Gtkeat Cable Incline, 1000 yds. long, ascends to the summit of
Echo Mountain (4015 ft. ; return-fare from Los Angeles $ IV2), which com-
mands a wide and beautiful view. Here are the Lowe Observatory (with a
16-inch equatorial telescope open to visitors) and a collection of native wild
animals. — From Echo Mt. , the mountain-railway goes on to the Alpine
Tavern (5000 ft. ; $ 3-3V2). Hence we may ascend on foot or on pony-back
($1 each, including share of guide) to the top of Mt. Lowe (6100 ft.), which
commands a *View extending for over 100 U. in every direction. The route
skirts the wonderful Grand Canyon. The return-trip from Alpine Tavern to
Echo Mt. is made by gravity.
85. From Los Angeles to San Diego and National City.
Coronado Beach.
132 M. Santa Fe Railway to (126 M.) San Diego in 4 hrs. (fare $3.85
return- fare, good for 14 days, $6, for 30 days $7.50; chair-car 50 c.) and
to (132) National City in 41/2 hrs. (fare § 3.95).
Los Angeles, see p. 531. 2 M. Redondo Junction, for the line
to Redondo (p. 534). The train runs at first through groves of
oranges and walnuts and afterwards over meadows. A good view
is obtained to the left, above the foot-hills, of the Sierra Madre
(p. 53B). Beyond (7 M.) Bandini we cross the Los Angeles and
San Gabriel Rivers. At and beyond (10 M.) Rivera many oil-well
pumps are seen on the heights. 13 M. Santa Fe Springs (155 ft.);
27 M. Anaheim (Commercial Hotel, $ 2), a pleasant little town, in
one of the best orange-growing districts of the State. We cross the
538 Route 85. SAN DIEGO. From Los Angeles
S. Pacific Railway, Engllsli walnnt-trees are frequent, and we now
meet with the first olive- orchards, with small gray trees like those
of S. France. Before reaching (31 M.) Orange (180 ft. ; The Yilla,
from $ 2) , the junction of the line from San Bernardino (see
p. 485) and a centre for celery and pea-nut growing, we cross the
wide sandy hed of the Santa Ana River. This part of the line
passes through numerous fine orange-groves. — 34 M. Santa Ana,
a fruit - packing town, is the junction of a short line to (11 M.)
Newport Beach, on the coast. Near (47 M.) El Toro (425 ft.),
whence stages run to (9 M.) Laguna Beach (fare 25 c), is ModjesTca,
the winter -home of Mme. Modjeska. We now descend rapidly
through a rolling green country, not unlike the fells near Appleby
and Carlisle. To the left, at (56 M.) Capistrano, are seen the inter-
esting ruins of the Mission of San Juan Capistrano, founded in 1776
and overthrown by an earthquake in 1812. It has been rescued from
farther ruin and partly restored by the 'Landmarks Club', which de-
votes itself to such work along this coast, and is still used for services.
We reach the ocean at (59 M.) San Juan ('Hooahn'), and henceforward
for nearly 60 M. have it close to us on the right. A little below is
Dana's Point, over which the hides were hurled, as narrated in Dana's
'Two Tears before the Mast'. — From (85 M.) Oceanside (Miramar,
from $ 2) a drive (team with driver, $ 2) may be taken to the (4 M.)
Mission of San Luis Rey de Francia, which, after standing empty
and in ruins for nearly a century, is again occupied by Franciscans.
A branch-line runs from Oceanside to (20 M.) Fallbrook and (23 M.)
Escondido. Fine views of the ocean to the right. At (108 M.) Sorrento
we begin the ascent of a steep grade to (112 M.) Linda Vista, beyond
which we descend, passing from a rich fruit-growing country of
lemons, figs, loquats, olives, and many other varieties, into a country
of vast plains, roUing back to the foot-hiUs on the east, aU given over
to sheep-grazing.
126 M. San Diego (U.S. Grant Hotel, new; RoUnson, situated on
a hill above the town, $ 21/2-45 Helix, from $2, small but well spoken
of; Brewster, R. from $1; Brit, vice-consul, Mr. Allen Hutchinson),
a city of (1900) 17,700 inhab. (now probably doubled), is rapidly
growing, carries on a considerable fish-industry, and contains many
churches, schools, public buildings, and public parks. It lies on a
bay of its own name and has the best harbour on the Californian
Coast after that of San Francisco. Steamers ply regularly to San
Pedro (p. 534), San Francisco, and ports in Lower California, and
sailing vessels to Hawaii, Australia, and numerous Californian ports,
while a through-car (sleeper) runs over the Santa Fe' route, on the
'California Limited', to Chicago in 3 days. The climate is mild and
equable (mean temp., Jan. 54°, Aug. 70°), and the country is very
fertile, both in fruit and grain. Mulberry-trees thrive here, and a
silk-industry is growing up. The city contains a U. S. garrison (Fort
Rosecrans) , and also possesses a U. S. jetty, new quarantine and
to National City. CORONADO BEACH. 85. Route. 539
naval coaling stations, and fortifications. The following excursions
may be made nearly as well from Coronado Beach (see below) as
from San Diego.
About 61 '2 M. to tlie N. of San Diego ia the old Mission of San Diego, the
first settlement (1769) made by white men in California. Its olive-groves
are very prolific. The Mission may be reached by taking the electric car
to (4 M.) the hills overlooking the Mission Valley, and thence on foot (2V2M.
to Mission from car-terminus); or we may drive all the way, descending
the curious and very iteep ''Mission Grade'. Drivers should return by
the Old Town of San Diego (the original settlement), with its adobe build-
ings, the house in which Ramona was married (see H. H.^s 'Ramona'), the
Spanish church-bells (100 years old), and a mission - school attended by
Indian and white children. — Other favourite points are (5 M.) Paradise
Valley; the Sweetwater Dam (14 M. to the E.), 396 ft. long, 90 ft. high, and
12-46 ft. thick, forming a reservoir with a capacity of 6,000,000,000 gallons
(these two best reached by the National City Otay R. R. from San Diego to
Tia Juana, p. 540; return -fare $1); Pacific Beach, reached by a steam-
tramway (10 M.) or motor-car; La Jolla Cave ('Hoya'), with the curious
'Alligator Rock' , 14 M. to the N.W., which can be entered only when
the tide is out (this and Pacific Beach may be combined with a visit to the
Old Town by taking the San Diego, Pacific Beach, & La Jolla Railroad);
and El Cajon Valley ('Cahon'), 15 M. to the N.E. (reached by the San Diego,
Cuyamaca, & Ea'itern R. R.). — A fine automobile trip, over one of the
loveliest roads in California, may be made to Warner Springs (Hdtel, from
$ 2), 7U M. to the E. (return-fare, $ 11). Or we may use the railway as
far as (25 M.) Foster and go on thence by stage.
An interesting trip by steamer (once weekly) may be made from San
Diego to (11 hrs.) Ensmada (Iturbide, $2), a town in Lower California,
Mexico, with golf-links, a fine climate, and wild scenery.
Coronado Beach, on a small peninsula immediately opposite
San Diego and forming the outer arm of San Diego Bay, is reached
from San Diego Railway Station in 20 min. by an electric car (5 c.)
and ferry ("5 c), connecting with an electric car leading to the hotel
(5 c; hotel-automobiles from the station to the hotel 50 c, incl. ferry
and hand-baggage). Coronado Beach, about 12 M. in length, consists
of a narrow tongue of sand, running to the N. from the mainland and
ending in the expansions known as the South and North Beach, each
about 1^/2 M. square. The latter, opposite Point Loma (p. 540), forms
the S. horn of the entrance to San Diego Bay and is still mainly a
waste of sand and chaparral, kept as a game preserve (of rabbits and
quail chiefly) for the guests of the hotel. The South Beach, on the
other hand, has been partly laid out as a city and contains several
hundred cottages, fine trees, beautiful gardens, a Japanese cottage
and tea-garden (adm., including tea and cake, 25 c), goK-links with
club-house, and other attractions. Its permanent population is about
1500. The University of California (p. 466) has a marine biological
station on this beach. The *Hotel del Coronado (from $ 4, summer
and pension rates less) is one of the largest, finest, and most com-
fortable hotels in California, and is delightfully situated close to the
ocean and an excellent sandy beach. Adjacent are bathing- tanks
of salt-water, for summer and winter use, while steam- yachts,
launches, and boats afford opportunity for excursions by water.
540 Route 65. NATIONAL CITY.
Flowers thrive wonderfully on Coronado Beach, and the fiower-beds
adjoining the hotel are of astonishing brilliancy. The tower of the
hotel commands a splendid *Yiew.
The Climate of Coronado Beach is mild and equable (mean winter
temp. 56°, spring 59°, summer 68°, autumn 65°). The daily range is sin-
gularly small, the difference between the lowest and the highest mean
temperature of the 24 hrs. amounting in some years to only 10°. The average
annual rainfall is ten inches, and the average number of rainy days is
less than fifty.
Among the points of interest on South Beach are the Ostrich Farm (adm.
25 c.) and the beautiful "Botanical Gardens (2/3 M. from the Hotel; station
on the electric line to the ferry). T^ear the hotel is a Tent City (open May-
Oct.), under the same management, consisting of 1200 tents furnished a^
hotel-bedrooms, with hot and cold water, electric light, a theatre, a restaurant,
shops, and reading and concert rooms. Expenses may be comfortably limited
here to $ 2 daily. — An excursion should be made to Point Loma (*View),
the ^'. horn of the entrance to San Diego Bay, reached by boat to Ballast
Point (2 M. below the view-point) or by carriage from San Diego. The
uppermost of the two lighthouses here, 500 ft. above the sea, is said to be
the most loftily-situated lighthouse in the world (now disused). About
midway between the landward end and the extreme point of the headland
is the site of a Theosophical Institution of the 'Universal Brotherhood",
with its excellent school and 'Homestead Hotel' (from $ 2). — Other ex-
cursions may be made to the places mentioned in connection with San
Biego and National City. — Good fishing for mackerel, barracouda, halibut,
and bluefish is obtained in the bay or ocean, while quail may be shot on
North Beach and wildfowl along the shore.
Beyond San Diego the railway soon reaches its terminns at
(132 M.) National City (*San Miguel, $2), with 1086 inhab., con-
nected by a steam-motor line with (13 M.) Tia Juana ('TeeaHooahna'5
Aunt Jane), situated just beyond the Mexican frontier.
86. The Yosemite Valley.
Approaches. The main approach to the Yosemite Valley is via Merced
and JEl Portal (p. 542). The Valley may also be entered via Berenda ZkO.^ Ray-
mond (p. 529) or via Stockton, Oakdale, Chinese, and the Big Oak Flat Road (see
p. 541), but these routes are now seldom used. The picturesque Hetch-Hetchy
Valley (p. 547) and the Calaveras Grove (p. AGo), though not on any of the
recognized Yosemite routes, may be included in the Yosemite trip if the
visitor is willing to make the necessary detours. -At least one day extra would
be required in either case. Circular tickets of any desired character, including
transportation only, going and returning by one or diverse routes, or in-
cluding all necessary expenses at hotels and on the trails while in the
Valley, may be obtained during the summer season at the San Francisco
office of the SoutherJi Pacific Railway. From San Francisco the price of
the standard round-trip ticket via El Portal, including transportation only,
is S 'i6.60 ; the minimum charge for board at the hotels on the way and in
the Valley (two days) averages about § 3-4 per day. Trail expenses in
the Valley depend entirely on circumstances, but if animals and guides are
used will amount to not less than $ 4 per day. Similar tickets may be pro-
cured at Los Angeles ($ 38.40), Sacramento ($ 25.30), and other large towns.
In June and July it is advisable to apply for tickets several days in ad-
vance, as the stage-accommodation in entering the VaUey is limited 5 and
the same precaution should be observed in leaving the Valley. Each pass-
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Practical Notes. YOSEMITE VALLEY. 56'. Route. 541
enger is entitled to take 150 lbs. of baggage free on the railway, 50 lbs. on
the stage. The charge for excess is $ 1 pier cwt.
Travellers approaching the Valley via Raymond take the train from
San Francisco to (178 M.) Berenda (p. 529), where they change for the train
to (21 M.) Raymond (p. 529). The drive from this point to Yosemite Village
(p. 542) is about 70 M. in length, and is broken by a night at Wawona
(p. 548). — Those approaching via the Stockton and Oakdale route take
the train from San Francisco to (92 M. ; 4 hrs.) Stockton (p. 465) and from
Stockton to (32 M. ; IV2 hr.) Oakdale, proceed by the Sierra Railway to
Chinese, and go on thence to (ca. 50 M.) the Valley (comp. p. 465).
Travellers who enter via El Portal (p. 542) may arrange to visit the
Merced and Tuolumne Groves of Big Trees before entering the Valley. The
Merced Grove is reached by trail (7 M.) or by a wagon road (12 M). Thence
we may proceed via (3 M.) Hazel Green to (6 M.) ihe Tuolumne Big Trees.
Hotels. The only hotel in the Valley itself (p. 542) affords reason-
ably comfortable quarters. There are also fair hotels at the stopping-
places of the stages on the way into the Valley, and likewise a goon inn
at Glacier Point (p. 545). Three comfortable camps are now established,
where the visitor gets a bed in a tent and substantial food for considerably
less than tbe hotel rates (Curry''s Camp and Yosemite Gamp, each $2 a day;
Camp Ahwanee, $ 3).
Season. Plan of Tour. The regular season of travel in the Yosemite
begins about April 1st and ends about Nov. 1st, but a winter-visit has also
been made entirely practicable by the opening of the railway to El Portal.
Perhaps the period from the middle of May to the mi .idle of June is on
the whole the best time for a visit, as the roads are then generally free
from snow or dust, the temperature is pleasantly warm by day and cool
at night, the waterfalls are still full of water, the snow-effects on the
mountains are lovely, and the wild-flowers are in profusion. On the other
hand some of the trails may still be closed by snow. Later the heat is
sometimes great. Campers commonly visit the Valley in June, July, or
Aug., and suitable camping-places are set apart for their use. It is possible
to see all the points usually visited in about three days, but it is advisable
to spend at least a week in the Valley. Those who have time for one
trip only should select that to Glacier Point, which gives a view of the
Valley itself, the Sierra Nevada, and the Vernal and l^'evada Falls. Next
in importance come the Falls just named. Eagle Peak and the Yosemite
Falls, and Cloud's Rest (this last for the more energetic). No one should
fail to see the sunrise reflected in Mirror Lake, a sight which can be in-
cluded in any of the ordinary daily excursions. The charges for horses,
mules, carriages, and guides are fixed by the Superintendent (tariff on
application at the hotel). The roads on the floor of the Valley are fair,
and the mountain-trails are as a rule excellent bridle-paths, though nervous
persons, or those inclined to dizziness, may find some of them rather
trying to ride down. In this case, however, it is easy to dismount and go
on foot, letting the mule follow. The Guides ($ 8) are usually eourtC' us
and obliging, but do not compare in intelligence or knowledge of the
country with the best Swiss guides. The trails are so unmistakable that
their functions are mainly confined to looking after the horses.
Bibliography. The standard work on the Yosemite is the 'Yosemite
Guide-book' by JProf. J. D. Whitney (published in three sizes, but at present
unfortunately out of print). See also D. J. Folefs 'Yosemite; Souvenir and
Guide' iand 'The Yosemite Pathfinder". Excellent maps of the Yosemite
Valley have been published by the U. S. Corps of Engineers (Wheeler
Survey) and the Geological Survey of California. Good photographs may
be obtained from Taber & Co., the Sunset Photo & Engraving Co., and R.
J. Waters, at San Francisco, or from George Fiske, in the Valle^y itself. —
The botanist will find the Yosemite Valley a place of great interest, and the
number and variety of its wild flowers are especially remarkable. The singular
snow-plant (Sarcodes sanguinea), elsewhere rare, is frequently found in or
near the Yosemite in May and June. It has the form of a bright scarlet
column, 3-12 inches high, and grows on the edge of snow-drifts or in ground
recently covered with snow. Good shooting and fishing may also be obtained.
542 Route 86. YO SEMITE VALLEY. El Portal.
Appboach via Mbbced and El Pobtal.
According to present time-tables we leave San Francisco by the
Sonthem Pacific Railway at 8.20 a.m. (Santa Fe Railway at 8 a.m.),
and proceed to (152 M.) Merced^ as described at p. 529, amving at
1.30 p.m. (return-fare to Merced $8.10). There transfer is made to
the train of the Yosemite Valley Railroad, which leaves at 2.30 p.m.
and reaches (78 M.) El Portal in 4 hrs. (retnm-fare $ I8V2 ; excursion
rates frequently obtained; extra fare on observation car, 50 c). The
train first runs to the E. through the San Joaquin Valley (p. 529) and
crosses (17 M.) the Merced River. At (24 M.) Merced Falls the foot-
hills begin. Abundant evidence of placer mining and of prospecting
is seen on both sides of the river. A few miles above Merced Falls
we reach the dam and stamp-mill of the Exchequer Mine. At (37 M.)
Pleasant Valley the railway crosses to the S. bank of the Merced.
The scenery increases in interest as we penetrate deeper into the
foot-hills. A short distance below (48 M.) Bagiy, with a small
stamp-mill and an electric plant, we return to the right bank. About
2 M. farther on we pass Solomon's Gulch^ from which $2,000,000
of gold dust was taken in the earlier days. The walls of the canyon
now grow higher and more precipitous, and after crossing the North
Fork we reach (55 M.) The Broadhead^^ a great cliff that overhangs
the gorge. — 56 M. Mountain King Mine, the stamp-mill of which
is run by water brought through a flume over 1 M. long.
78 M. El Portal. Here the night is spent in the El Portal Hotel
($ 4). The stages leave for the Valley at 7 a.m. The road foUows the
right bank of the Merced River, and the scenery rapidly increases
in grandeur. At places the sides of the valley rise precipitously to
nearly 2000 ft. After 1 M. we enter the National Park. — 31/2 M.
Arch Rock, formed by two huge boulders under which a passage has
been blasted for the road. — In 1/2 M. more we join the old Coulter-
ville Road. — 51/2 M. Cascades Fall, 600 ft. high. — 6 M. Black
Spring, where the horses are watered. At (7M.) Bridal Veil Meadows
we obtain our first view of the Valley, with El Capitan on the left,
and the Bridal Veil Fall and Cathedral Spires on the right (not so
fine as the view from Inspiration Point, p. 548). Opposite El Capitan
we cross the Merced and join the road from Wawona (p. 548). —
I2V2 M. Yosemite Village (3980 ft.), with the Sentinel Hotel ($ 3-4)
and the office of the Superintendent of the Valley (see p. 543).
The **Yosemite Valley ('full-grown grizzly bear' ; pron.'Yosemity')
is a gorge or canyon on the W. slope of the Sierra Nevada, traversed
by the Merced River and enclosed by rooky and almost vertif^al walls.
The nearly level floor of the valley is 8 M. long and about 8960 ft.
above sea-level, while the enclosing walls are 3000-5000 ft. higher.
The width between the walls varies from V2 ^- *o ^ ^- -^* several
points huge waterfalls are precipitated over the face of the rocky
walls into the valley below. The park-like floor of the valley is
El Capitan. YOSEMITE VALLEY. 86. Route. 543
carpeted with fine flower-stndded grass and freely sprinkled with
beautiful trees and shrubs, while the emerald-green Merced flows
through it in alternate reaches of calm and turmoil.
'The principal features of the Yosemite, and those by which it is
distinguished from all other known valleys, are: first, the near approach
to verticality of its walls; second, their great height, not only absolutely,
but as compared with the width of the Valley itself 5 and finally, the very
small amount of talus or debris at the base of these gigantic cliflfs. These
are the great characteristics of the Yosemite, throughout its whole length;
but, besides these, there are many other striking peculiarities, and
features both of sublimity and beauty, which can hardly be surpassed, if
equalled, by those of any mountain valleys in the world' (Whitnep).
The visitor standing on the floor of the valley sees no outlet in any
direction and teels curiously separated from the rest of the world. Per-
haps no single valley in Switzerland combines in so limited a space such
a wonderful variety of grand and romantic scenery.
The theory advanced by Prof. J. D.Whitney that the formation
of the valley was most probably due to a mighty convulsion of nature,
caused by the subsidence of a limited area, marked by lines of 'fault'
or fissure, crossing each other nearly at right angles, has now been
definitely abandoned. The investigations of Prof. Le Oonte, Mr.
H. "W. Turner, and others have conclusively proved that the valley
was formed by glacial action and that it is simply a gigantic example
of erosion. The geological formations are entirely granitic.
The Yosemite Valley was first seen by white men , so far as is
known, in 1851, when a small party of soldiers came upon it sud-
denly when in pursuit of Indians. The first settlement was made
in 1857, and other buildings were soon erected as the attractions
of the valley became known and tourists began to crowd in. In
1864 an Act of Congress was passed, handing the vaUey itself,
with the adjacent territory for a distance of about 2 M. all round it,
to the State of California for the purposes of a State Park. In 1905,
however, this park was receded to the Federal Government and it
now forms part of the Yosemite National Park, created in 1890, which
takes in the entire watershed of the rivers of the valley (500,000 acres).
This park is under the supervision of the Department of the Interior,
and it is policed by two troops of cavalry, encamped near theYosemite
Fall. The Superintendent is Major H. C. Benson, whose office is in the
village. About a dozen of the so-called Digger Indians (Shoshonians),
who originally occupied the valley, stiU survive. They are of the
lowest type of red men, supporting themselves partly on roots and
acorns and partly by fishing (comp. 'Indians of the YosemlteValley',
by Oalen Clark).
Perhaps the most striking object in the vaUey, to most visitors, is
the cliff known as *E1 Capitan (7042 ft), which rises prominently as
the N.W. buttress of the canyon. It is not by any means the highest
part of the canyon-walls, though rising to a height of 3000 ft. aoove
the floor of the valley, but produces its effect by its dominating
position, its majestic form, the bareness and verticality of its face,
and the narrowness of the valley in front of it. It has two faces, one
544 Route 86. YOSEMITE VALLEY. Half Dome.
looking W. and the other S., which join each other almost at right
angles. The S. face projects some 60 ft. from the perpendicular into
the valley. The snmmit cannot be reached without a long and arduous
journey, V7hich is seldom undertaken. The Ribbon Fall or the Vir-
gins Tears, about 2000 ft. high, descends over the cliffs just to the
W. of El Capitan. It is a beautiful fall in the early part of the sea-
son, but loses most of its water in summer. — To the E. of El Capitan
are the fine peaks named the Three Brothers, the highest of which,
known also as Eagle Peak (7773 ft.), is a favourite view-point (see
p. 547). — In the recess to the E. of Eagle Peak, near the centre of
the valley, are the **Yoseiiiite Falls, where the creek of that name
descends to the valley in three leaps, with a total height of 2500 ft
The Upper Fall has a vertical descent of 1436 ft. ; the Middle Fall
consists of a series of cascades with a total descent of 826 ft. ; while
the Lower Fall is 400 ft. high. This is the highest waterfall in the
world with anything like the same body of water. At the top it is
about 35 ft. wide. Seen at its best, this fall is certainly one of the
grandest features of the valley 5 but it dwindles considerably as the
season advances. A splendid ice-cone, 500 ft. high, forms at the foot
of the Upper Fall in winter. Trail to the top, see p. 546. — The
projection to the E. of the Yosemite Falls is named Yosemite Point
(6935 ft.) and commands a splendid view (comp. p. 547). The ravine
to the E. of this is known as Indian Canyon. The wall of rock on
the other side of Indian Canyon is known as the Eoyal Arches, so
called from the semicircular cavities on its front. Adjoining these, at
the angle formed by the beginning of the Tenaya Canyon (see below),
rises the Washington Tower or Column (5912 ft), which is itself a
cub or spur of the huge North Dome (7531 ft.).
We have now, in our survey, reached the head of the Yosemite
Valley proper, where it splits into the three narrow canyons of the
Tenaya to the N., the Merced in the middle, and the Illilouette to
the S, (comp. p. 547). To the S. of the Tenaya Canyon, opposite the
N. Dome and forming the E. terminus of the Yosemite Valley, rises
the singularly shaped **H:alf or South Dome (8852 ft), which dis-
putes with El Capitan the place of the most remarkable single feature
of the valley. 'It strikes even the most casual observer as a new re-
velation in mountain forms ; its existence would be considered an
impossibility if it were not there before us in all its reality ; it is a
unique thing in mountain scenery, and nothing even approaching it
can be found except in the Sierra NevadaY^Ti^iwey;. The Half Dome
was first ascended in 1875 by a man named Anderson, who scaled
the summit on the S.E. side by means of a rope attached to pegs
driven into the rock. Anderson's ladder has, however, been allowed
to go to ruin, and at present the top of the Half Dome is inacces-
sible. — To the S.W. of the Half Dome, at the angle formed by the
Tenaya and Merced Canyons, rises Grizzly Peak (6219 ft.), a grim,
wooded, and nearly inaccessible summit.
Glacier Point. YOSEMITE VALLEY. 86. Route. 545
Passing over the Merced Canyon, wMch enshrines the Vernal and
Nevada Waterfalls (see p. 546), we now come to the S. wall of the
Yosemite Valley, the first (easternmost) peak of which is **Glacier
Point (7214 ft.), the most frequently visited, and in many respects
the finest, of the points of vantage from which to view the valley.
A description of the trail to it and the view from it is given helow.
— For about 1 M. to the "W. of Glacier Point the wall of the valley
runs nearly in a straight line and is almost wholly covered with
talus or debris. Above this, but a little back from the valley, rises
the Sentinel Dome (8117 ft.), which commands a very extensive
view (see p, 546). The front-wall just mentioned ends on the W. in
the *Sentinel Bock (7117 ft), the most conspicuous rock on the S.
face of the valley. Its ascent is not difficult or dangerous for climb-
ers. — Next in order, as we proceed towards the W., come the slen-
der Cathedral Spires (6114 ft), adjoined by the imposing *Cathedral
Bocks (6638 ft), opposite El Capitan. Over the W. side of the lower
part of these rocks pours the *Bridal Veil Fall, which some visitors
deem the finest in the valley. It has a clear vertical fall of about
630 ft, with a width of 50-70 ft. The name is derived from the
effect on it by the wind, which often makes it flutter like a white
veil. Like most of the other falls, it loses much of its grandeur as
the summer advances. A fine rainbow is generally visible on this
fall between 4 and 5 p.m.
The above enumeration includes most of the principal points in
the valley itself or in its immediate walls. Below follows a short
description of the routes leading to these as well as to other points
not included in the valley itself but generally visited thence. The
hotel (p. 542) is taken as starting-point. For information as to horses,
guides, and so on, comp. p. 541. The prices given below are for
members of parties including at least four persons.
(1.) The *LowEE Round Dbive (16 M.), on tlie floor of the valley (fare
$ 2 each), gives a very good general idea of the Yosemite wonders. The points
visited include the foot of the Yosemite and Bridal Veil Falls (see p. 544 and
above), and it is well to time the drive so as to see the afternoon rainbow
on the latter (see above). — To Bridal Veil Falls and Inspiration Point,
$ 21/2. — The Cascade Falls are about bi/z M. below the Bridal Veil Fall,
beyond the limits of the valley proper. — Mirror Lake (see p. 547) is 3 M.
to the N.E. of the hotel (fare $1).
(2.) Glaciee Point (51/2 M. ; horse $ 3). The Glacier Point trail (well-
made but somewhat trying on horseback for those liable to giddiness, esp.
in descending; quite safe and not very steep for walking) begins near the
foot of Sentinel Rock, not far from the hotel. The trail ascends the steep face
of the cliff in zigzags. Union Point (6314 ft.), about two-thirds of the way up,
commands a fine view. Close by is the singular Agassiz Column. **Glacier
Point (7214 ft.), marked by a flagstaff, where an iron rail has been
j&xed between two rocks, commands a splendid view of most of the
valley, the floor of which lies almost perfectly sheer below us. A little
way from the edge of the cliff is the small and unpretending, but fairly
comfortable Olacier Point Hotel ($4, meal $ 1; Camp $2, meal 50 c.), the
porch of which commands a magnificent **View of the Merced Canyon,
with the Vernal and Nevada Falls and the Cap of Liberty, the Half Dome,
and the High Sierra, iiicluding (named from right to left) Mt. Starr King,
546 BouU 86. YOSEMITE VALLEY. Nevada FaU.
Red Mt., Gray Mt., Mt. Clark, Mt. Florence, Mt. McOlure, Tenaya Peak,
and Mt. Lyell (p. 548). ]!fearly every evening a fine display of fireworks
(announced by a horn) is given here by throwing burning brands, etc.,
over the clifi" (well seen from below). — Glacier Point is accessible, for
those who can neither ride nor walk up the trail, by carriage-road from
Chinquapin (see p. 54^), but this roundabout journey takes about a day
(51/2 hrs. each way) instead of 4-5 hrs. It may also be reached via Nevada
Fall (see below), and those who spend the night here may return by
this route. Many visitors now ascend from the Sentinel Hotel to Glacier
Point and drive* thence to (18 M. ; 51/2 hrs.) Wawona (p. 548). — The
top of Sentinel Dome (p. 545) is about IV4 M. from Glacier Point and
is easily reached thence on foot or horseback (no extra charge). From
Sentinel Dome the excursion may be extended to (2 M.) the so-called
Fissures. To Glacier Point, Sentinel Dome, and the Fissures, $ SVa- From
the Fissures we can continue by the Pohows Trail alon? the S. rim of the
valley, crossing the Bridal Veil Creek, to (8V2 M.) Fort Monroe.^ on the Wa-
wona road (Glacier Point to Fort Monroe $4).
(3.) -''Vernal and Nevada Falls (51/2 M. ; horse $ 21/2). About 2 M.
from the hotel a trail diverges to the Eappy Isles^ charmingly situated in the
river. The excelleiit Anderson Trail., which as far as Vernal Fall is so broad
and easy as to pive no cause for nervousness, begins about 21/4 M. to the
S.E. of the "rentinel Ho., opposite the electric light plant, and winds along
the flank of Grizzly Peak (p. 544), with the beautiful Merced River rushing
downwards on the right. A good distant view is obtained (right) of the
JlUlouette Falls (p. 547). About 1/4 M. below the Vernal Fall we cross the
river by a bridtte (4443 ft.), which commands one of the best views of it.
Five minutes beyond the bridge is the so-called Register Rock, where the
trail forks, the left branch leading to the flat Lady Franklin Rock, near the
foot of the Vernal Fall. The (2 M.) *Vernal Fall (5049 ft.) has a vertical
descent of 350 ft., with a width of 70-80 ft. Behind rises the picturesque
'Cap of Liberty (7072 ft.). This may be ascended by experts, but it is a
difficult climb. We may now ascend to the top of the fall by an easy
path protected by an iron chain. From Reiiister Rock (see above) the
trail (now narrower and steeper) makes a wide sweep to the right before
reaching the top of Vernal Fall, where the flat rock, with a natural
parapet, permits an approach to the verge of the water. Just above is the
beautiful "Emerald Pool The trail recrosses the river about halfway
between the top of the Vernal Fall and the bottom of the Nevada Fall.
Above the bridge is the "Diamond Cascade and below it is the ''Silver Apron.
We soon obtain a fine view of the (33/4 M.) superb **Nevada Fall (5910 ft.),
which has a slightly sloping descent of about 600 ft. and ranks with the
Yosemite Falls. — Many visitors turn at the foot of the Nevada Fall, but
those who have time and strength should certainly follow the steep and
zigzag trail to (3/4 M.) its top.
The trail to the Little Yosemite and Gloud''s Rest (see p. 547) diverges to
the left before we reach the bridge above the falls.
Bevond the bridge the trail gries on, along the flank of Mt. Starr King
(9081 ft.), to (6 M. ; 111/3 M. from the hotel 5 horse $ 4) Glacier Point (p. 545);
and this route is recommended to those who have time. The night may
be spent at Glacier Point Hotel (p. 545). This trail crosses the JlUlouette
just above the falls (see p. 547).
(4.) *Eagle Peak and Yosemite Falls (G-G'/zM, ; horse $ 3). To reach
Easle Peak trail, a steep but well-made bridle-path (not so dizzy as the
Glacier Point trail), we cross the bridge behind the Sentinel Hotel (p. 542),
turn to the left a little farther on, and cross the bridge over the creek
descending from the Yfsemite Fall. The trail diverges to the right about
1/4 M. beyond the last-named bridge, ascends round and up the ledges
adjoining the Falls canyon, and then descends to (IV2 hr.) a hitching-place
near the foot of the '"Upper Yosemite Fall (see p. 544). We clamber over the
rocks and approach as near the fall as we care to penetrate through the
clouds of spray, gaining an overwhelming impression of the stupendous
power and volume of this marvellous waterfj(,ll. Continuing to follow the
Mt. Watkins. YOSEMITE VALLEY. 86. Route. 547
trail, we keep to the left, where a path to the right diverges to the top of
the Yosemite Fall and again to the left at the next fork, where the path to
the right leads to Lake Tenaya (comp. p. 548). The *View from Eagle Peak
(p. 544) extends farther to the W. than that from Glacier Point and includes
some peaks of the High Sierra. — If time allows, a visit to the top of the
Yosemite Fall (p. 546) should certainly be combined with this trip.
The *View of the fall from above is as impressive in its way as that
from below. A large boulder about 12 yds. below the bridge above the
fall, on the left (E.) side of the stream, shakes or rather jerks perceptibly
at irregular intervals, as may be felt by leaning against it. This movement
is probably caused by the water of the fall entering some cavern far below.
The trail crossing the bridge mentioned at p. 546 leads to Tosemite Point
(p. 644), protected by an iron railing, which commands a view similar to
that from Eagle Point. If time and strength do not allow a visit to both,
the top of the Yosemite Falls and Yosemite Point should be preferred to
Eagle Peak.
(5.) *Mirror Lake (carr. $ 1), a small piece of water, about 3 M. to the
N.E. of the Sentinel Hotel, at the mouth of the Tenaya Canyon, is visitet-
for its wonderful reflections of the North and South Domes and Mt. Wad
kins. Its surface is generally most unruiFled early in the morning, and visitor-
usually go to see the sun rise in it over the Half Dome (about 8 a.m. in sums
mer). The reflections are also good by moonlight.
(6.) Cloud's Rest (10 M. ; horse $ 5). This excursion is one in high
favour among the more energetic visitors to the valley. It is accomplished
in one day (12hrs.). The trail is good and not difficult, but the upper
part of it is apt to be buried in snow in the early part of the season. —
From the hotel to the point where the trail diverges from that to the top
of the Nevada Fall, see p. 546. A little farther on the trail to the so-
called Little Yosemite (6000 ft.) diverges to the right Cloud's Rest (&924 ft.)
commands a splendid *View of the walls of the Yosemite Valley and of
the High Sierra. Immediately to the SW. is the Half Dome; to the N.,
across the Tenaya Canyon, rises Mt. Watkins (see below) Among the most
prominent peaks of the Sierra (named from K. to S.) are Mt. Hoffman,
Tenaya Peak (with Tenaya Lake below it), the Cathedral, Mt. Dana, Mt.
Gibbs, Mt. Lyell, Mt. Clark, and Mt. Starr King (see p. 546).
(7.) Falls of the Illilouette (2V2 M.). The falls of the Illilouette
may be reached by a somewhat rough scramble up the canyon of the
Illilouette, opening to the S. of the Merced Canyon (comp. p. 544). The
total height is about 600 ft. ; the main fall is 400 ft. high. They are also
passed on the trail from Nevada Fall to Glacier Point (see p. 546). Most
visitors will content themselves with the distant view from the Vernal
Fall trail (see p. 546). A good echo is returned from Echo Wall, in the
Illilouette Canyon.
(8.) Mt. Watkins (8300 ft.) rises on the N. side of the Tenaya Canyon
and is sometimes ascended from the N.
Among the longer excursions in the High Sierra, which can be made
by those who prolong their stay in the Yosemite Valley, are those named
below. Guides are necessary in all cases, and a little experience in moun-
tain-climbing is desirable for some of the ascents. Rough accommodation for
the night can sometimes be procured, but in other cases camping out is
necessary. — About 12 M. to the N. of Yosemite is the *Oanyon of the
Tuolumne (four syllables), a stream which, in this part of its course,
runs nearly parallel with the Merced and is very attractive from the beauty
and variety of its waterfalls and the grandeur of its overhanging cliff's.
The upper part of the canyon can be easily reached on horseback by the
Virginia Creek Trail, which leaves the trail to Mono Lake at Lake Tenaya
(p. 548) and soon brings us to the first and uppermost of three pictur-
esque groups of cascades, with a total descent of 2000 ft. within I1/2 M.
(comp. p. 544). About 20 M. lower down is the 'Hetch-Hetehy (3700 ft.), a
remarkable counterpart of the Yo.'^emite, on a somewhat smaller scale, but
closely resembling it in its main features, with similar high cliffs and fine
waterfalls. It cannot easily be reached by descending the canyon, but i§
548 Route 86. YOSEMITE VALLEY. Inspiration Point.
approached by the Tioga Road., running N. from Crocker's Station on the Big
Oak Flat Road (comp. p. 540). From Crocker's to (56 M.) the Eetch-Betchy
a stage runs durinsi June, July, and August; saddle-horses and vehicles
can be hired at Crocker's. Those who make this trip must provide their
own food and cam;-accomm<>dation. From the Hetch-Hetchy Valley easy
side-trips may be made to (11 M.) / ake Eleanor., to (5 M.) Till-Till Valley.,
and thence to (6 M.) Lake Vernon and (11 M.) Runchesia Mt. In t^e Hetch-
Hetchy Valley exceptionally good fishing may be found. Lake Tenaya,
18 M. to the N.E. i)f the -■entinel Hotel, via the Eagle Peak trail (comp.
p. 546), and reached also from Crocker s (see above), lies near the head
of the Tenaya Canyon, in the midst of a grand mountain amphitheatre.
Tenaya Peak., on its E. side, may be ascended with little difticulty. Beyond
this lake the trail (to the left theVir.inia Creek trail, see p. 547) uoes on
to the (8 M.) ■Tuolumne Meadows (8500 ft.), at the head of the Tuolumne
Canyon (p. 547). The scenery here is very fine. Near the head of the
Meadows are the (8 M.) Soda Springs., a favourite camping-ground for those
making the ascent of Mt. Dana or Mt. Lyell (see below). The trail goes
on to (20 M.J M>'no Lake. — Mt. Dana (12,992 ft. ; there and back, 4 days),
commands a very extensive view and is =;enerany ascended from Soda
Springs (see above; no particular difficulty). — Mt. Lyell (13,090 ft.) is
more difncult and should not be attempted except by experts (3-4 days).
It is also ascended from Soda Springs. — Mt. Hoffmann (10,921 ft.; *View)
may be ascended from Tenaya Lake in half-a-day. — Visitors to the Little
Yosemite (p. 547) may go through the gorge at its head, passing the
Silver Chain Cascade., to the Lost Valley (there and back in one day).
Wawona and the Mabiposa Grove of Big Tbees, which were
formerly visited by travellers entering the Valley via Berenda and
Raymond, are now usually made the object of an excursion from
the Sentinel Hotel or Glacier Point (see p. 545 ; round trip in 1 V2 day,
stage-fare $ 15). — From Yosemiie Village to (4 M.) *BridaL Veil
Fail, see pp. 544, 545. We now ascend a winding road, with rapid
turns, 'hair-pin' bends, and glorious retrospects of the Valley (e.g. at
Artist's Point, 4700 ft.^. About 4 M. beyond Bridal Veil Fall we
reach **Inspiration Point (5390 ft.), which commands a superb
view of the Valley, with El Capitan to the left, Cathedral Spires
and Sentinel Dome to the right, and the Balf Dome and North Dome
in the background. The timber along the road is striking, including
sugar- pines (Pinus Lambertiana), yellow pines (Hnus pondero!<a),
silver firs (Abies magnifica)., cedars (Libocedrus decurren^) and oaks,
besides pretty blossoming trees like the dogwood (Gornvs Florida).,
buckeye (Aesculus Calif ■.mica)., and California lilac (Ceanothus in-
tegerrimus). The curiously twisted and red-trunked manzanita
(Arctostaphylos glauca) is also abundant. — Near (13 M.) Chinquapin
Station, 5 M. from Inspiration Point, our road is joined by the
direct road from Glacier Point (see p. 545]. The road now ascends
rapidly, commanding a series of fine views, and finally attains an
elevation of 6500 ft. The descent is equally rapid.
26 M. Wawona or Big Tree Station (4095 ft.; Hotel, $ 3V2-4V2)
is beautifully situated on the S. fork of the Merced River (p. 542)
and forms pleasant headquarters for a prolonged stay. The principal
point of interest in the vicinity is the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees,
8 M. to th? S.W.
Mariposa Orove. YOSEMITE VALLEY. 86. Route. 549
The *Mariposa Grove of Big Trees (6500 ft.), so called from its situ-
ation in Mariposa ('butterfly') county, occupies a tract of land, 4 sq. M. in
area, reserved as a State Park, and consists of two distinct groves. V2 M.
apart. The Lower Grove, which we reath first, contains about 240 fine
specimens of the Sequoia gigantea (see p. 465), including the 'Grizzly Giant',
the largest of all, with a circumference of 94 ft. and a diameter of 31 ft.
Its main limb, 200 ft. from the ground, is 6V2 ft in diameter. In ascend-
ing to the Upper Grove , which contains 360 big trees , the road goes
through a tunnel, 10 ft. high and 91/2 ft. wide (at the bottom), cut directly
through the heart of a living Sequoia, 27 ft. in diameter. The road passes
close to nearly all the largest trees in the Grove, the names and dimen-
sions of which will be supplied by the driver. About 10 of the trees ex-
ceed 250 ft. in height (highest 272 ft.) and about 20 trees have a circum-
ference of over 60 ft., three of these being over 90 ft. The Calaveras Grove
(p. 465) has taller trees than any in the Mariposa Grove, but the latter
has those of greatest circumference. Many of the oldest trees have been
marred and reduced in size by fire. The wood of the Sequoia gigantea, like
that of the Sequoia sempervirens (redwood; comp. p. 520), is easily
worked, durable, and susceptible of a high polish. Small articles made
of it may be bought at the pavilion in the Upper Grove.
To the W. of the Wawona Hotel rises Signal Peak (7860 ft.), the top
of which (7 M.) may be reached by a good road. The *View embraces
the San Joaquin Valley (p. 529) and innumerable peaks of the Sierra Ne-
vada. — The '-Chilhualna Falls (a cascade of 2000 ft.), 2 M. to theN.E., are
reached by a good bridle-path and will repay a visit. The California State
Fish Hatchery is also interesting.
Good fishing is obtainable round Wawona.
Beyond Wawona the road goes on to (20 M.) Ahwanee (Hotel, $ 3, R. $ 11
and (40 M.) Berenda (p. 529).
87. From San Francisco to El Paso.
1295 M. Southern Pacific Railway ('Sunset Route') in 46-48 hrs.
(fare $40; 30-day ticket, with 'stop-over' privileges, $45; sleeper $7,
tourist car $3.50). Through - trains run by this ri)ute to New Orleans in
about 4 days (fares $57.50, 2nd cl. $47.60; 1st cl. 30-day ticket, with 'stop-
over' privileges, $ 67.50). Comp. R. 95.
From San Francisco to (484 M.) Los Angeles, see R. 82b.
Beyond Los Angeles the train runs to the E. through the fruitful
San Gabriel Valley (p. 536). From (489 M.) Shorb or Dolgeville
(465 ft.) branch-lines diverge to (5 M.) Pasadena (p. 536) and to
(12 M.) Monrovia (p. 486) and (14 M.) Duarte. — 494 M. San
G'a&mZ (416 ft.; Hotel San Gabriel, known as 'The Grape Vine',
with a huge trellised vine, 100 years old, in its garden) is the
site of the interesting *Mission de San Gabriel Arcangel, founded
in 1771. The Mission Church, erected in 1804 with material im-
ported from Spain, is seen to the left, just before we enter the station.
The old Mission gardens and vineyards deserve a visit. Pasadena
(p. 536) lies about 3 M. to the N.W. To the N. and E. is the Sierra
Madre Range (p. 536). — At (499 M.) Bassett (296 ft.) a loop-line
diverges to Covina, rejoining the main line at Pomona. — 517 M.
Pomona (860 ft.; The Palomares, $21/2), with 5526 inhab., is one
of the prettiest and most prosperous of the fruit-growing towns in
the San Bernardino Valley (p. 486). Large crops of alfalfa (six
yearly) and beetroot are also raised here. A little to the S.E. is
550 Route 87. COLTON. From San Francisco
the admirable Experimental Station of the University of California.
— 524 M. Ontario (985 ft. ; Ontario, $ 21/2), a brisk Uttle fruit-
growing town with 2600 inhab,, lies in the midst of a striking land-
scape, with the four highest monntaias of S. California in sight (Mt.
St. Bernardino and Grayback to the E., San Jacinto to the S.E., and
Mt. San Antonio or Old Baldy to the N. ; also all visible from many
other points). It is connected with (21/2 ^0 Upland (p. 486) by
the beautiful *Euclid Avenue, planted with eucalyptus and pepper
trees and traversed by an electric tramway. A branch-line runs to
China, with a large beet-sugar factory. — 527 M. Cucamonga.
540 M. Colton (980 ft.; Trans - Continental Hotel, $lV2-3;
The Andrews, $21/2-3), a town of 1285 inhab., is of importance as
the junction of lines to San Bernardino (p. 485), on the N., and
San Diego (p. 538), on the S. It grows large quantities of fruits
and is widely known for its excellent black and white marble.
We now ascend rapidly towards the ridge of the San Bernardino
Mts., which we cross, at (563 M.) Beaumont, by the San Qorgonio
Pass (2560 ft.). On the other side we descend as rapidly towards
the Colorado Desert. To the right are the striking San Jacinto Mts.
(highest summit 10,805 ft.), to the left the San Bernardino Range.
The Colorado Desert, which we now traverse for about 150 M.,
is a barren sandy wilderness, a great part of which actually lies
below sea-level (see below). Almost nothing grows on it except
cactus and yuccas. The Gulf of California would seem to have extended
to the vicinity of the San Gorgonio Pass and when it receded left a
large inland sea of salt-water ('Lake Cahuilla'), which finally dried
up, leaving large deposits of salt near Salton (see below). — 569 M.
Banning (2320 ft.); bib M. Cabazon (1780 ft.); 583 M. White Water
(1230 ft.). The so-called 'Hog WaUows' of this district are oblong
mounds, a foot or two above the general level, produced by wind and
drifting sand. — About 7 M. to the S.W. of (589 M.) Palm Springs
(685 ft.) lies Palm Valley (Hotel, $2), at the E. base of Mt. San
Jacinto, with the only natural grove of date-palms in California and
a curious hot sand-spring. It is now frequented to some extent as a
health-resort (as it was, by another race, long before the Spaniards
found it in 1537), and fruit-growing is also carried on. — 612 M.
India (Southern Pactflc Hotel, $ 2), also frequented by consumptive
patients, is an attractive place, with fine palms and cottonwood trees.
The tract between here and Yuma is a desolate desert, hot even in
mid- winter. At Indio we are about 15 ft. below the level of the sea,
and at (637 M.) Salton we reach a depth of 263 ft. below sea-level.
In 1891 a lake, 30 M. long, 10 M. wide, and 4 ft. deep, was created
near Salton by the Colorado River, and in 19o6 a still larger lake was
formed in the same way, the country thus partly reverting for a time to
the physical conditions mentioned above. By dint of great expenditure
and engineering ability the river has, however, been again brought under
control, and works have been constructed which will, it is hoped, prevent
repetitions of the inundation. It is estimated that it will take 10 years
lor the ake ('Salton Sea') to dry up by evaporation.
to El Paso. YUMA. 87. Route. 551
From (666 M.) Imperial Junction a brancli-line runs to the S.
to (27 M.) Imperial, an oasis made by irrigation, and to (92 M.) Teco-
lote. At (671 M.) Flowing Well we are again 10 ft. above sea-level.
683 M. Mammoth. — About 47 M. farther on we cross the Colorado
River, and enter Arizona (p. 480).
731 M. Yuma (MOft.j Southern Pacific Hotel, withRail. Restaurant,
$21/2; Gandolfo, R. from $ 1), with 4125 inhab., one of the hottest
places in the country, was established by the Spanish missionaries
in 1700 and lies on the Colorado just below its confluence with the
Gila ('Heela'). The Mexican frontier is only 7 M. to the S. The
Yuma Indians, specimens of whom sell bows and arrows , etc., at
the railway-station, have a reservation adjoining the Colorado. About
12 M. above Yuma is the great Laguna Dam (4780 ft. long),
which confines the waters of the Colorado so as to form a lake
10 M. long.
The train now follows the course of the Gila (left) through an
arid and unattractive district. Cacti are abundant, including many
specimens of the giant cactus (Cereus giganteus; Mex. sahuaro),
often 40 ft. high and 'looking like a Corinthian column surmounted
by candelabra'. Mirages are often seen in crossing Arizona by this
route. To the left rise the Castle Dome Mts., to the right the Oila
Range. Farther on other mountains are seen on both sides and
vegetation appears sparsely, the desolation being relieved by the
wonderful colouring and curious rock-formation. The sunrises and
sunsets here are worth seeing. The line gradually ascends from
Yuma, affording views of the Gila river at intervals. 854 M. Gila
Bend (730 ft.; The KindaU); 875 M. Estrella (1510 ft). — From
(896 M.) Maricopa (1165 ft.) a branch-line runs to the N. to (35 M.)
Phoenix (Adams Ho., from $3, R. from $1; Commercial Hotel,'
Ford, R. from $ 1), the capital of Arizona, a well-built, modern
city of 5544 inhab., in the well-irrigated and amazingly fertile Salt
River Valley. The remains of several prehistoric towns have been
found in the vicinity (comp. p. Ixii).
From Phoenix a branch-line runs to (96 M. ; 3V4 lirs.) Winkelman, on
the Gila River. — From Phoenix to Ash Fork, see p. 483. — Perhaps the
most impressive feature of the huge irrigation works near Phoenix is the
Roosevelt Dam, 286 ft. high and 800 ft. long at the top (1908). It will create
an artificial lake, 25 M. long and 2 M. wide (comp. p. 101), affording irri-
gation for a district of 250,000 acres.
About 16 M. to the N. (2 hrs. by stage) of (917 M.) Casa Grande
(1385 ft.; Casa Grande, Woods Ho., $ 21/2) are the interesting re-
mains of the pueblo of Casa Grande or Chichitilaca, with enormous
adobe walls (comp. p. Ixiii). — We continue to ascend steadily.
983 M. Tucson (pron. 'Toosohn'; 2390ft.; Santa Rita, $5;
San Augustin, from $21/25 The Heidel, Windsor, R. from $1), a
quaint old Spanish - looking place with 7531 inhab., is the largest
city of Arizona and carries on a considerable trade with Mexico.
Copper, cattle, and the railroad shops are Its chief sources of wealth.
552 Route 87. TUCSON.
Tucson contains the University of Arizona (215 students), an Indian
School, and an interesting Desert Botanical Laboratory in connection
with the Carnegie Institution (p. 222j. In its vicinity is a U. S.
Agricultural Station for experimental work. About 9 M. to the S.
is the old mission-church of St. Xavier del Bac, founded at the close of
the 17th century (since when, it is said, service in it has never ceased).
Beyond Tucson the Santa Rita Mts. are seen to the right, cul-
minating in Mt. Wrightson (10,315 ft.); to the left are the Santa
Catalina Mts. — Crossing the San Pedro river, we reach (1031 M.)
Benson (3575 ft.), the junction of a branch-line to (348 M.) Guay-
mas, on the W. coast of Mexico (G-ulf of California). At (1053 M.)
Dragoon (4605 ft.) we reach the highest point of this part of the
line and begin to descend slightly. 1073 M. Wilcox (4155 ft.) ;
1081 M. Railroad Pass (4385 ft.). From (1097 M.) Bowie (3750 ft.),
a branch-line runs to (35 M.) Solomonsville and (124 M.) Olobe. At
(1127 M.) Stein's Pass (4350 ft.), in the Peloncillo Range, we enter
New Mexico (p. 493). 1147 M. Lordshurg (4235 ft.), the junction of
a branch-line to (77 M.) Morenci (Hotel, $ 2-3) and (70 M.) Clifton
(Central, $2), with their rich copper-mines. — 1207 M. Deming
(4325 ft. ; Depot Hotel, from $ 3), a place of 1341 inhab., is the junc-
tion of the A. T. & S. F. line to Rincon (for La Junta, Denver, etc.,
see p. 479) and also of a short line to (48 M.) Silver City. — 1215 M.
Zuni (4180 ft. 5 not to be confused with the pueblo mentioned at
p. 479). One mile beyond (1288 M.) Rogers we cross the wide and
deep valley of the Rio Grande (itself here an insignilicant stream)
by a superb steel bridge, and enter Texas ('Lone Star State'), the
largest state in the Union (262,290 sq. M.). Texas, besides raising
cattle, is rapidly growing in commercial importance, producing cotton,
wine, iron, coal, oil, and rice which rivals that of Carolina.
1295 M. El Paso, see p. 591.
V. SOUTHERN STATES.
Route Page
88. From Washington to Richmond 554
Battlefields round Eichmond. From Richmond to West
Point and Yorktown 559.
89. From Richmond to Norfolk and Old Point Comfort . . 560
a. By Steamer 560
Portsmouth. From Norfolk to Altavista 562.
b. Via Chesapeake' & Ohio Railroad 562
c. Via Norfolk & Western Railway 564
Battlefields round Petersburg. Dismal Swamp 564,
90. From Washington to Louisville 565
Monticello. Lexington 565. — From Covington to Hot
Springs 566. — From Louisville to Lexington 569.
91. From Washington to New Orleans 569
a. Via Southern Railway and Atlanta 569
From Green>boro to Raleigh and Goldsboro; to Nor-
folk 570. — Clarksville, Tallulah Falls, etc. 571. — From
Atlanta to Birmingham 572.
b. Via Southern Railway, Norfolk & Western Railway,
and Chattanooga 575
From East Radford to Columbus. Roan Mt. 576. —
Thunderriead Peak. Cumberland Gap. Middlesboro 577.
— Battlefields round Chattanooga. Look-out Mt. 578. —
From Chattanooga to Brunswick, to Memphis, and to
Nashville, 579.
c. Via Seaboard Air Line and Atlanta 580
Pinehurst 581.
92. From Cincinnati to New Orleans 582
a. Via Chattanooga ('Queen & Crescent Route') . . . 582
Blue Grass Region. Berea 582.
b. Via Louisville and Nashville 583
From Glasgow Junction to Mammoth Cave 584.
c. Via Louisville and Memphis 586
From Memphis to New Orleans via Vicksburg 587.
93. From Chicago and St. Louis to New Orleans .... 588
94. From St. Louis to Texarkana 589
From Newport to Joplin 589. — Hot Springs, Ark. 590.
95. From El Paso to New Orleans 591
From San Antonio to Rockport and to Austin 593. — From
San Antonio to Laredo. From Houston to Galveston 594.
96. From Hagerstown to Bristol. The Shenandoah Valley . 596
97. From Salisbury to Asheville and Morristown .... 598
Blowing Rock. Montreat 599. — Excursions fr(im Ashe-
ville 600. — From Asheville to Spartanburg and to
Murphy. From Hendersonville to Lake Toxaway
(Sapphire Country) 601.
98. From Richmond to Charleston 602
a. Via Weldon 602
Wilmington 602.
b. Via Charlotte and Columbia 602
Baedekeb's United States. 4th Edit. 35
554 BouU88. QUANTICO.
Route Page
99. Charleston 603
100. From Oliarleston to Augnsta 606
From Augusta to Atlanta 607.
101. From Richinond to Savannali 608
a. Via Charleston 608
Beaufort. Port Royal 608.
1). Yia Danville and Columbia 608
102. From Savannah to Atlanta 610
103. From New York to Florida 611
a. Via Atlantic Coast Line 611
From Waycross to Dupont. Thomasville 612.
h. Via Southern Railway 613
c. Via Seabord Air Line 613
d. By Steamer 614
From Jacksonville to Fernandina; to Mayport 615.
104. From Jacksonville to St. Augustine, Miami, and Key
West 615
Indian River 619. — From Titusville to Sanford 620.
105. The St. John's River 623
106. The Ocklawaha River 625
107. From Jacksonville to Tampa 626
a. Via Palatka and Sanford 626
From Sanford to Taroon Sprines and St. Petersburg
626. — Punta Gorda 627.
b. Via Palatka and Ocal a 628
c. Via Waldo and Ocala 628
From Waldo to Cedar Key 628. — From Turkey Creek
to Friiitville 629.
108. From Jacksonville to Tallahassee, Pensacola, and New
Orleans 629
From Tallahassee to Carrabelle and ApalacMcola 630. —
From Pensacola to Muscogee 631.
109. New Orleans 631
Excursions from Xew Orleans 636.
110. From New Orleans to Dallas, Fort Worth, and El Paso 637
Great Staked Plain 633.
88. From Washington to Eichmond.
Comp. Map^ p. 156.
116 M. Washington Southern and Richmond, Fredeeicksbueg, <fe Poto-
iiAC Eaileoads in 31/2 lirs. (fare $3,505 parlor-car 50 c.). Tliis is part of
the Penn, and Atlantic Coast line route to the S. (comp. R, 103a).
Washington, see p. 211. The train crosses the Potomac, afford-
ing (right) a view of Arlington House (p. 227), enters Virginia (the
'Old Dominion'), and skirts the right bank of the river to (7 M.)
Alexandria (p. 228) and (35 M.) Quantico. The line now edges
Sol4i«rK' - . . \ Ltf ^
O-
A
^"Metres
»g^Est3ibT Tieipzig.
RICHMOND. 88. Route. 555
away from the river and skirts the ' Wilderness', a barren and unat-
tractive district widely known from the terrible struggles of the
Civil War that took place here in 1863-64 (p. xli).
54 M. Fredericksburg (Exchange Hotel, $2), a quaint old city
of 5068 inhab., on the Rappahannock, founded in 1727. It was the
scene of a hardly-contested battle in 1862, when the Confederates
under Lee defeated the Union troops under Burnside. The huge IV^a-
tional Cemetery, on Marye's Heights, contains 15,000 graves, and
there is also a large Confederate Cemetery.
Those who are concerned with studying the campaigns of the Civil
War will find much to occupy their attention in and around Fredericks-
burg. Carriage $ 1 per hr. ; the negro driver will point out the places
of interest. The Battle of Chancellor sville (May 2nd-4th, 1863), in which
'Stonewair Jackson was mortally wounded, took place 11 M. to the W.,
resulting in another repulse to the Union forces, with a loss of 17,000 men.
A little to the S. is Spottsylvania Court House, the centre of some of Grant's
operations in 1864 Cp- 559). The 'Battles of the Wilderness'' between Grant
and Lee were almost continuous during May, 1864; and the losses of the
two armies exceeded 60,000. Comp. p. 559.
George Washington spent his boyhood near Fredericksburg. His mother
died here in 1789 and is commemorated by a monument.
The train runs towards the S. To the left is a stone pyramid
marking Hamilton s Crossing, where the Confederates were posted
in the battle of Dec. 13th , 1862. At (67 M.) Guinea StonewaU
Jackson died (see above and p. 566; the small house, with two
chimneys at one end, is visible to the left). 92 M. Doswell. — Henry
Clay (1777-1852) was bom near (99 M.) Ashland, the seat of Ran-
dolph Macon College (150 students). — 105 M. Olen Allen (Forest
Lodge), a favourite all-the-year-round resort of the Richmondians.
116 M. Richmond. — Railway Stations. Main Street Station (PI.
D, 2), for the C. & 0. and Seaboard Air Line railways; Southern Depot
(PI. D, 3), for the Southern Railway ; Bi/rd Street Station (PI. C, 3), for the
Atlantic Coast Line and Rich., Fred., & Potomac railways.
Hotels. "The Jeffebson (PI. a; A, 2), Jefferson St., R. from $11/2;
The Richmond (PI. g; C, 2), Capitol Sq., R. from $ IV2, well spoken of;
MuBPHY's Hotel (PI. c; C, 2), 801 Broad St., with large annex opposite,
R. from $1, well spoken of; Lexington (PI. e; C, D, 2), cor. of 12th and
Main Sts., $ 2V2-4, R. from $1; Fobd's (PI. b; C, 2), Capitol Sq.; Paek
Hotel (PL d; C, 2), R. from $1. — Rueger^s Restaurant, Capitol Sq., cor.
9th and Bank Sts. (PI. C, 2).
Electric Tramways traverse the chief streets and extend to the suburbs
(5 c. ; free transfers for intersecting lines). — Hacks and Omnibuses meet
the principal trains ; fare into the town 50 c. each.
Steamers ply down the James to Norfolk (fare $ IV2), Old Point Com-
fort, Newport News, Baltimore, etc.
Post Office (PI. C, 2), Main St., between 10th & Uth Sts.
Theatres. Academy of Music ; Bijou Theatre.
Consuls. British, Mr. Arthur P. Wilmer; German, Mr. Emil K. Vietor.
Richmond (20-200 ft.), the capital of Virginia and one of the
most interesting cities of the S., is situated on seven low hills rising
from the N. bank of the James River. In 1900 it contained 85,050 in-
hab., while Manchester, on the opposite bank of the river, with
which it is connected by several bridges, had 9715. The total
35*
556 Route 88. RICHMOND. Capitol.
estimated population of the city and suburbs in 1907 was 135,000.
The city is regularly laid out, and most of the streets running N.
and S. are denoted by numbers. Fine water-power is afforded by
the James River, which descends 116 ft. in 9 M.
Richmond was founded in 1737, on the site of the home of the famous
Indian Chief Powhatan^ and had still only a few hundred inhabitants when
made capital of the State in 1779. At various national crises it was chosen
as the meeting-place of important conventions; and in 18H1 it became the
seat of government for the seceding states. The capture of Richmond
became ultimately the chief objective point of the "Union troops, and it
was defended with great obstinacy by the Confederates, who threw up
strong lines of earthworks all round it (eomp. p. 559). When finally
compelled to evacuate Richmond (April 2nd, 1865; comp. p. 557), the Con-
federates set fire to the tobacco warehouses and other stores; and a large
part of the city was destroyed. All traces of this devastation have been
removed and the city is now in a thriving condition, carrying on a brisk
trade (tobacco, etc.) and considerable manufactures (machinery, locomo-
tives, flour, ships, etc.; total annual value about $ 50,000. (XX)). About
600,000,000 of the famous Richmond Straight Cut cigarettes are made here
annually by the Allen & Ginter Branch of the American Tobacco Co.
The European visitor will probably be struck by the number of Negroes^
who form one-third of the population and contribute many of its most
picturesque and romantic features. Most of the better class of negroes,
who have reached a higher level here than in most parts of the S., live
in or near First St., to the N. of Leigh St. (PI. B, 1).
A visit is recommended to the Tobacco Factories, the most charac-
teristic and interesting of the sights of Richmond, where the negroes are
engaged in preparing the tobacco for the market and amuse themselves
at work by singing the old Plantation melodies, specially adapted to their
sweet but entirely untrained voices.
Near the centre of the city, on Shockoe Hill, is Capitol Square
(PI. C, 2j, a tree -shaded area of 12 acres, with many tame grey
squirrels. The Capitol or State House (PI. C, 2), partly designed
after the Maison Carree at Nimes, occupies the highest point of the
square and dates from 1785. The wings were added in 1906.
Interior (freely open to visitors). In the Central Hall, surmounted
by a dome, are Houdon's "Statue of Washington (which Washington him-
self is said to have seen in its present position) and a bust of Lafayette
by the same artist. The Senate Chamber., to the right, was used as the
Confederate House of Representatives during the Civil War; it contains
a large painting of 'The Storming of Yorktown (1781)', by Lami. The Hotue
of Delegates, to the left, contains portraits of Chatham and JeflFerson, and
was the scene of Aaron Burr's trial for high-treason (1807; comp. p. 558)
and of the State Secession Convention (1861). The platform on the roof
affords a fine *View of Richmond, Manchester, the James River, and the
battlefields of the vicinity (p. 559).
Capitol Square also contains a fine equestrian Statue of
Washington, by Crawford , with figures of Patrick Henry, George
Mason, Thomas Jefferson, Thomas Nelson, Andrew Lewis, and
Chief Justice Marshall round the pedestal; a Statue of Stonewall
Jackson (1824-63), by Foley, presented by English gentlemen' (Rt.
Hon. A. J. Beresford Hope and others); a Statue of Hunter Holmes
McCruire, the most noted surgeon of the South; and a Statue of
Henry Clay (p. 555), by Hart. The curious old Bell House, on
the W. side of the square, was formerly used by the Public Guard.
At the N. E. corner of the square stands the Oovernors Mansion
St. John's Church. RICHMOND. 88. Route. 557
(PI. D, 2). — On tie N. side, in Broad St., is the City Hall (PI. C, 2),
a handsome Gothic structure with a clock-tower. — To the E. of
the Capitol is the State Library (PI. C, D, 2), containing
80,000 vols, and the largest State collection of portraits in the conn-
try, including portraits of all the Governors from John Smith to
Tyler. — In St. PauVs Church (PI. C, 2), at the corner of 9th St.
and Grace St., on the W. side of Capitol Sq., Jefferson Davis was
seated when he received a despatch from Gen. Lee, announcing that
Richmond must be evacuated (comp. p. 556).
In 12th St., at the corner of Clay St., a little to the N. of Capitol
Sq., is the Jefferson Davis Mansion (PI. D, 1), or '^ White House of the Con-
federacy''^ occupied by Mr, Jefferson Davis as President of the Southern
Confederacy. It is now fitted up as a Museum of Confederate Relics (adm.
25 c.). In the rear of the museum is part of the propeller-shaft of the
'Merrimac' (p. 561). [A large and handsome Confederate Memorial Hall,
to be called Battle Abbey, is about to be erected in connection with the
Museum as a Memorial of the Confederacy.]
Following Broad St. to the E. from Capitol Sq., we pass on the
left, near the corner of CoUege St., the Monumental Church (PL D,2),
erected on the site of the Richmond Theatre, at the burning of which
in 1811 Gov. Smith and fifty-nine others lost their lives. Opposite
is the Memorial Hospital (PL D, 2). — About 8/4 M. farther on, at
the corner of 24th St. (r.), is St. John's Church (PL F, 2J, erected
in 1740, but since much enlarged.
The Virginia Convention was held in this church in 1775, and the
pew is pointed out in which Patrick Henry made his famous 'give me
liberty or give me death' speech. The verger shows the church and sells
photographs, canes made of the sycamore which overshadowed the above-
mentioned pew, etc. The graveyard is of some interest.
Twenty- eighth St., 1/4 M. farther on, leads to the fight to Marshall
Square, on Libby Hill (PL F, 2), embellished with a Monument to
the Private Soldier and Sailor of the Confederacy (good view).
A little farther out is Chimborazo Park, About 1 M. to the N.E. is
Oakwood Cemetery, where 18,000 Confederate soldiers are interred.
From Libby Hill we may descend to Main St. and follow it to
the left, between tobacco warehouses and factories, to 20th St. In
20th St., to the left, at the cor. of Cary St., close to the railway and
the canal , is an ice-house which occupies the site of the famous
Libby Prison (PL E , 2 , 3) , removed to Chicago in 1889. — In
Main St. (N. side, near 20th St.) is the Old Stone House (PL
E, 2), the oldest building in Richmond, said to date from 1737.
The Post Office (PL C, 2), between 10th & Uth Sts., to the right,
was one of the few buildings in this part of the city that escaped
the fire of 1865 (p. 556). — At 7th St. we may diverge to the left
to visit the R. A. Patterson Tobacco Works (PL C, 3), beyond the
Byrd St. Station (best time, 10-12 a.m.). At the corner of Main!St.
and 5th St., to the left, stood (till 1891) the large red brick Allan
House, in which Edgar Allan Poe spent his boyhood with his foster-
father, Mr. John Allan . Fourth St. leads to the left from Main St.
to Oamble's Hill Park (PL B, 3), which commands a *View of the
558 Route 88. RICHMOND. Hollywood Cemetery.
river, with, its nuiiierons falls and islands. Below lie the great
Tredegar Iron Works, where most of the cannon of the Confederate
Government were made. To the N.W. of the park is the State Peni-
tentiary (PI. A, B, 3). Passing the Penitentiary, we come (10 min.
more) to the entrance to *Hollywood Cemetery (PI. A, 4).
Near the W. gate of the Cemetery is the Confederate Monument, a mde
pyramid of stone 90 ft. high, erected as a memorial to the 16,000 Confed-
erate soldiers buried here. On Presidents^ Hill, in the S.W. corner of the
cemetery , overlooking the river, are the graves of Monroe (1758-1831) and
Tyler (1790-1862 ; no monument), tveo of the seven Presidents born in Vir-
ginia CMother of Presidents')- John Randolph (1733-1837) of Roanoke, Jef-
ferson Davis (d. 1839), Major-General Pickett (d. 1875; p. 194), Oen. J. E.
B. Stuart (1833-64), and Commodore Maury (1830-71) are also interred here.
A good view is obtained of Belle Isle, which was a prison-camp during
the war. — To the W. of Hollywood are the Riverside and Mt. Calvary
Cemeteries and (3/4 M.) the JV^ew Reservoir Park.
In the meantime, however, we leave the cemetery hy its "W. gate
and proceed to the right (tramway), through a poor district, to
(I/2 M.) Park Avenue, at the beginning of which, in Monroe Park
(PI. A, 2), is a Statue of Qen. Wickham (1820-88), by Valentine.
Three blocks to the W. of this statue is Howitzer Place, containing
a Monument to the Richmond Howitzers.
From the N.W. corner of Monroe Park we may now follow
Monument Avenue (a prolongation of Franklin St., beyond PI. A, 2)
to (V2 M.) the equestrian * Statue of General Lee (1807-70;
pp. 193, 559), by Mereii (1890). Adjacent is an equestrian statue
of Gen. J. E. B. Stuart (see above), by Fred. Moynihan (modelled
on the Outram statue in Calcutta), and 1/2 M. farther on, at the W.
end of the avenue, is the Jefferson Davis Monument (by W. C. No-
land), consisting of a semicircular colonnade with a pillar support-
ing an allegorical female figure and inscribed 'Deo Yindice', with
a heroic statue of the ex-President (by Valentine) in front. — A
little to the E. of the Lee Statue is Richmond College, and ^/2-^U^-
to the W. are the Exposition Buildings (in the State Fair Grounds')
and the Soldiers' Home.
We may now return to the centre of the city by Franklin St.
At the corner of Franklin and 4th Sts. is the Rosemary Library
(PI. B, 2), open to the public, founded by Thomas Nelson Page in
memory of his first wife. No. 707 Franklin St. was the home of
General Lee during the War (1861-5) and now contains the collec-
tion of the Virginia Historical Society (PL C, 2). — At the corner
of 11th and Clay Sts., near the Davis Mansion (p. 557), is the
Valentine Museum (PL C, 1), containing local antiquities, casts,
autographs, engravings, specimens of early printing, drawings, and
oil-paintings. In this house, which is a good example of an 'ante
bellum' Virginian home, Aaron Burr (p. 556) was entertained during
his trial for treason.
Among other points of interest in Richmond are the Westmore-
land Club (PL C, 2), at the cor. of Grace and 6th Sts. ; the Com-
Battlefields. RICHMOND. 88. Route. 559
monwealth Club(T\. A, "2), at the cor. of Franklin and Madison Sts.;
the Virginia Cluh, 2311 East Grace St.; Chief Justice MarshalVs
House (PL C, 1, 2) ; the Tobacco Exchange, Shockoe Slip ; the Uni-
versity College ofMedicine(yi. C, D, I); the Medical College of Virginia
(PL D, 2); the National Cemetery, 2 M. to the N.E. of the city
(6540 graves); the Sheltering Arms Hospital; and Idlewood Park,
a favourite summer-resort, close to the city on the W. (car-line).
Battlefields round Richmond. During the last three years of the Civil
War (1862-65) battles raged all round Richmond, and remains of the for-
tified lines constructed to protect the city are visible in various parts of
the environs. Both the inner and outer fortifications may be seen from
the *Bbook Road, which leads to the Lakeside Club House, with its golf
links, bowling alleys, and boating lake. Probably the best plan for the
stranger is to hire a carriage with an intelligent driver and spend a day
visiting the scenes of the principal battles. Guides may be obtained at the
hotels. An electric tramway (fare 5 c.) runs every 40 min. from the corner
of P St. and 29th St. (beyond PI. E, 1) to (7 M.) Seven Pines (see below), where
several intrenchments and earthworks may be seen near the terminus of
the line (guide usually obtainable here, at the curiosity shop). — The
chief direct attack on Richmond was made on May 15th, 1862, when the
Union fleet attempted, without success, to force its way past the batteries
at Drmry Bluff, on the James River, 7 M. below the city (easily visited
by steamer, see p. 560). Simultaneously Gen. McClellan advanced with
the land-forces up the peninsula between the York and James Rivers and
invested Richmond on the E. and N. This led to the hardly-contested but
indecisive battle of Seven Pines or Fair Oaks (May 31st, 1862), in which the
Confederates under Gen. Joseph E. Johnston attacked McClellan's left wing,
to the S. of the Chickahominy . Large cemeteries and a park now mark the
spot. The district is swampy, and McClellan lost more men by pestilence than
in fighting. Gen. Robert E. Lee now assumed command of the Confederate
forces and made an attempt, in combination with Gen. Stonewall Jackson,
to overwhelm McClellan's right wing, which was posted at Mechanicsville,
on the Chickahominy, 5V2 M. to the.N. of Richmond, and thus began the
famous Seven Days' Battle (June 26th-July 2nd, 1862). Mechanicsville was
followed by the battles of Gaines Mill., Cold Harbor, Savage's Station, Frazier^s
Farm, and Malvern Hill. The upshot of this series of contests, in which 40,000
men fell, was the relief of Richmond, as the Union troops were compelled
to retreat to Malvern Hill , 15 M. to the S.E. , where they repelled the
Confederates in their last attack but soon after withdrew to Harrison''s
Landing , on the James River. During 1863 there were no direct attacks
on Richmond. In May, 1864, Gen. Ulysses S. Grant came down through
the 'Wilderness'' (see p. 555), attacked Lee in his entrenched position at
Cold Harbor (June 3rd, 1864), and lost 15,000 men without making much
impression on the enemy. He then transferred his army to the S. side of
the James; and the later stages of the war were rather a siege of Peters-
burg than of Richmond (see p. 564). Gen. Butler captured Fort Harrison
opposite Drewry Bluff, in Sept., 1864. — Yellow Tavern, the place of General
J. E. B. Stuart's death, is situated about 5 M. to the N.W. of the city.
From Richmond to West Point and Yokktown, 65 M. ; railway to
(39 M.) West Point in 1V4-23/4 hrs. and steamer thence to (26 M.) Torktown
in 13/4 hr. (through-fare $11/2). The train runs to the E., passing some of
the battlefields of the Civil. War. Beyond (7 M.) Fair Oaks (see above)
it crosses the Chickahominy. 39 M. West Point (Terminal Hotel, $ 2-4), with
1300 inhab. , lies at the head of navigation of the York River, and we are
here transferred to the steamer of the Chesapeake Steamship Co. The trip
down the river is pretty. The intermediate stops are Allmonds and Clay
Bank. — 65 M. Yorktown (Boywlew Ho., $ 2-2V25 Yorktown So., $lV2-2), on
the right bank of the river, 10 M. above its mouth, is memorable for the
surrender of the British army under Lord Cornwallis on Oct. 19th, 1781,
forming the final scene of the War of Independence. Moore House, in which
560 Route 89. CITY POINT.
Lord Cornwallis and Washington drew up the terms of surrender, is 1 M.
below Torktown. Remains of British intrenchments are still visible, and
a monument commemorates the surrender. Among the old buildings are
the Nelson House (where the surrender was signed) and the Custom House
(the oldest in the country). — From Yorktown the steamer ascends Chesa-
peake Bay to Baltimore (p. 202).
From Richmond to Old Point Comfort^ see R. 89; to Charleston^ see
R. 98 j to Savannah^ see R. 101.
89. From Eichmond to Norfolk and Old Point Comfort.
Gomp. Mapi p. 156.
a. By Steamer.
Steamee down the James River to Old Point Comfort and Norfolk
(120 M.) in 10 hrs. (fare % IV2). This is a pleasant and interesting trip.
The steamers of the Virginia Navigation Co. start on Mon., Wed., & I^id. at
7 a.m. and run to Newport News, Old Point Comfort, and Norfolk. Those
of the Old Dominion Co. leave daily at 7 p.m., connecting at Norfolk with
steamers of the same line for New York.
Richmond^ see R. 88. Tlie course of the James River is very cir-
cnitons and tlie direct distance from Riclimond to its montli is only
about 74 M. The water is of a muddy brown colour, telling of the
rich tobacco-growing soil through which it flows. Its ancient name
was Powhatan (comp. p. 556).
Just below Richmond, on the left bank, is the site of Powhatan's
home, where Pocahontas is said to have saved the life of Capt. John
Smith (see p. 561). Warwick Parle here is a popular resort. —
Farther on, on both banks, are earthworks of the Civil War.
8 M. (r.) Drewry Blu£f (120 ft.), with remains of the old for-
tifications {^Fort Darling; see p. 559). — 81/2 M. (1.) Chaf^in Bluff,
behind which lay Fort Harrison (p. 559). — I31/2M. The Dutch Oap
Canal, constructed by Gen. Butler to avoid the Howlett House
Batteries, saves a detour of 51/2 M. — 1474 M. (1.) Varina was the
home of Pocahontas and her husband JohnRolfe. — I5V4M. Meadow-
ville (r.), with rich marshland reclaimed by dykes and pumping. —
20 M. Curie's Neck (1.) , with a fine modern house in the Colonial
style. — 21 M. Presque Isle (r.). — 22 M. Picketfs, at the foot of
Malvern Hill (p. 559), on Turkey Island Bend. — 29 M. (1.) Shirley,
a plantation still owned by the Carters (here pron. 'Oyarter'), one
of the 'F.F.V.' (first families of Virginia). Farther on (right) are
the lowlands of Bermuda Hundred, where, in Grant's significant
phrase, Gen, Butler was 'bottled up'.
311/2 M. (r.) City Point, at the mouth of the Appomattox River
(p. 566), with the house of Dr. Epps, the headquarters of Grant, in
1864-65. City Point is 9 M. from Petersburg (p. 564; railway) —
37^2 M. Berkeley (1.), with Harrison s Landing (p. 559), was the
birthplace of the first President Harrison (1773-1841). Opposite is
Jordan's Lighthouse. — 3874 M. (1.) Westover, the former home of
the Byrds and Seldens, is, perhaps, the finest old Colonial mansion
NORFOLK. 89. Route. 561
on the James (comp. p. Ixxxviii). — 40 M. Blair s (r.). — 42 M.
Willcox Landing (1.), a fishing village, sends sturgeon roe to Russia to
be made into caviar. — 44 M. Weyanoke (1.). — 46 M. (r.) Fort Pow-
hatan, a relic of the war of 1812. — 54 M Brandon (r.) and (56 M.)
Claremont (r.) are good examples of Colonial houses; the latter,
made of English tricks, is said to he a reproduction of the royal
mansion of the same name near Esher, in England. — Below (59 M.)
Sandy Point the Chickahominy (p. 559) joins the James.
68 M. (1.) Jamestown, the earliest English settlement in America,
founded in 1607 by Capt. John Smith Sind Christopher Newport
(monument by S. V. Valentine). The only remains of the ancient
town are the tower of the church (in which Pocahontas was married
in 1614; church itself rebuilt in 1907} and a few tombstones. The
river here expands into a wide estuary. Fleets of oyster-boats are
seen. Williamsburg (p. 562) is 7 M. distant (carr. there and back $4).
691/2 M. Scotland (r.), the landing for Surry Court House and the
terminus of the Surry, Sussex, & Southampton Railway.
76 M. Homewood, known a few years ago as the uncultivated Hog
Island, is now a successful agricultural village. — 85 Y2 M. Fergussons,
100 M. Newport News (Warwick, $2V2-5; Lexington Hotel,
$2-21/2; Srit. vice-consul, Mr. J. Haughton; Ger., Mr. Fred.
J. Gauntlett), a flourishing little city, with 19,635 inhab., large
grain elevators, coal wharves, shipbuilding yards, and iron -works.
An electric tramway runs hence to Hampton and Old Point Comfort
(p. 563). — We now enter Hampton Beads, one of the best harbours
on the Atlantic coast. It was here that the Confederate iron- clad Vir-
ginia (the old Merrimac; comp. p. 557) nearly annihilated the wooden
fleet of the Union, until itself disabled by the opportun e arrival from
New York of the famous turret-ship Monitor built by Ericsson (p. 33).
108 M. Old Point Comfort and Fort Monroe, see p. 563. To
the N. (left) opens Chesapeake Bay (p. 208). — To reach Norfolk the
steamer ascends the Elizabeth River, an arm of Chesapeake Bay.
120 M. Norfolk. — Monticello Hotel, from $ 3, R. from $ I1/2, with
restaurant on 5th floor, good view; 'Lokeaine, Lynnhaven, R. from $1725
Faibfax, from $21/2, R. from $1; Atlantic, Main St., $272-4, R. from $ 1;
Neddo, small and good, from $21/2, R. from $1; Gladstone, R. from $1.
British Vice-Consul, Mr. Barton Myers.
Norfolk, with 46,624 inhab., the second city of Virginia and
excelled by Savannah alone among the Atlantic ports to the S. of
Chesapeake Bay, was founded in 1682. The staples of its busy ex-
port-trade are cotton, coal, oysters, and early fruits and vegetables
(strawberries, 'goubers' or pea-nuts, etc.). The city is irregularly
laid out but contains some pleasant residence-quarters. St. PauVs
Church, dating from 1730, was struck by a British cannon-ball in
1776, but the one now resting in the indentation is not the original.
The churchyard contains many old gravestones, and in the wall of
the church is one from Weyanoke (see above), dated 1681/8-
562 Route 89. WILLIAMSBURG. From Richmond
The grounds of the Jamestown Exposition, held in 1907, lie 4 M. to
the N. of Norfolk, on the shores of Hampton Roads. Most of the huildings
are stiU standing and various proposals are afloat for turning them to
some permanent use. The Pine Beach Hotel (from $21/2) stands here.
On the opposite bank of the Elizabeth (ferry; electric car to Navy Yard,
5 c.) lies Portsmouth iHotel Monroe, Lafayette, $2), a city of 17,427 inhab.,
with an excellent harbour. At Gosport, the S. end of Portsmouth, is the
^avy Yard (open 8-5), the most important in the country, with a hnge
dry-dock and interesting relics of the wars with Spain (1898), China (190U),
and Mexico (1846). To the N. is a l^arge Naval Hospital. — A branch of
the Seaboard Air Line runs hence via (79 M.) Weldon (where it intersects
the Atlantic Coast Line, p. 602) to (426 M.) Norlina (p. 580).
From Norfolk a short branch-railway (fare 25 c. ; station 2 M. from the
town) and an electric tramway (hourly; same fare) run to (ISM.) Virginia
5eacA (Arlington, $272), a seaside-resort on the Atlantic coast, surrounded
by pine-forest. — An electric car ('Old Point Comfort Express') leaves Main
St. hourly for Ocean View (Hotel, $ 3), connecting with steamer to Old Point
Comfort (through-fare 25 c). — The Dismal Swamp (p. 564) may be easily
visited from Norfolk. — Currituck Sound, 30 M. to the S. of Norfolk, offers
splendid wild-fowl shooting. — Steamers ply from Norfolk to Old Point
Comfort (p. 563; 1/2 ^^ i ^^^^ 25 c), Yorktown and We$t Point (p. 559), Rich-
mond, New York, Baltimore, Washington (see p. 22"^), etc.
Fbom Norfolk to Altavista, 200 M., Virginian Railway (no through-
trains at present). The line is being extended to (441 M.) Deep Water, in
W. Virginia.
b. Vil, Chesapeake & Ohio Railroad.
Railway to (85 M.) Old Point Comfort in 2V4 hrs. (fare $ 2.50). Steam
Feket from (75 M.) Newport News to (12 M.) Norfolk in 1 hr. (through-
fare $2.50).
Richmond, see p. 555. The train runs to the S.E., down the pen-
insula between the York River and the James River, a flat region
of swamps and pine-forest. We skirt the Chickahominy Swamp
(p. 559) and cross that river near (18 M.) Roxbury. 24 M. Provi-
dence Forge.
48 M. Williamsburg {Colonial Inn, from $21/2), the ancie-nt
capital of Yirginia and seat of the Colonial governor, with (1900)
2044 inhab., was the scene of a battle on May 5th, 1862.
The old College of William and Mary, chartered in 1693, directly by the
Crown, was the earliest college in the United States after Harvard (p. 270)
and has been the Alma Mater of 17 governors, 12 cabinet ministers, 1 chief
justice, and 3 Presidents of the United States. Some of the buildings
have been modernized. The original ones are said to have been built from
the plans of Sir Christopher Wren. The library contains many interesting
relics. In the quiet 'campus' is an old statue of Lord Botetourt.
The principal street is the Duke of Gloucester St., which extends from
the College (see above) to (1 M ) the site of the Old Colonial Capitol, tbe
meeting- place of the House of Burgesses. On this street are the old Court
House (built in 1769 and used continuously since then), the old '■Powder
Horn (1714), the '■Poor Debtors" Prison, and the old Bruton Parish Church.
The last, originally built in 16S1-83 but dating in its present form from
1710-17 (restored in 1905-7), contain:^ a Bible given by Edward VII., a lectern
given by President R' osevelt, and various old relics. Among the old
Colonial residences is that used as headquarters by Washington and
Lafayette during the siege of Yorktown (p. 559). — Comp 'Williamsburg,
the Old Colonial Capital^ by L. G. Tyler (1908), and 'Bruton Parish Church',
by W. A. R. Goodwin (1908).
75 M. Newport News (p. 561). Ferry to Norfolk (p. 561), see above.
CBESAPEAE
OldPointeom/brt
PortWool
<. Jpr<?3aA./J\feTrj II ^'j\ ^1 P T 0 X
<^. ■>- SewaUPy
ROADS ^^ .
« agner tBebes' Geog?"Bstab! T.eipsi
to Old Point Comfort. FT. MONROE. 89. Route.
563
82 M. Hampton (New Augusta Hotel, from $21/2; Barnes Hotel,
$ 2) is a pleasant little town witli 2764 inhabitants. Close by are
a National Soldiers'' Home (2300 inmates) and the ^Normal and
Agricultural Institute for Negroes and Indians, founded by Gen.
S. C. Armstrong in 1868.
A visit to the latter is of special interest. The institute is attended
by 1300 Negroes and 120 Indians, of whom the former pay part of
their expenses by working. The chief aim of the institute is to train
teachers for the coloured schools, and in this, as well as in the education
of the Indians, its success has been highly satisfactory. Visitors are wel-
come to the classes, parade (12.15), weekly concert, dinner, etc. (specimens
of pupil's work for sale; no academic work on Mon.). Hampton also
contains a National Cemetery (5000 graves) and the Church of St. John,
huilt in 1660 with English bricks (tower modern). It is connected with
(3 M.) Old Point Comfort Ifj a fine shell road and an electric tramway.
Tramway to Newport News^ see p. 561.
The train now crosses an arm of Hampton Roads and reaches —
85 M. Old Point Comfort or Fort Monroe (*Hotel Chamberlin
close to the sea, with 470 bedrooms, and fine swimming and other
baths, R. from $2; Sherwood, Bright View, $2-3), consisting
mainly of a huge hotel, the most elaborate fortification in the
United States, and a group of cottages, and situated on a small
peninsula on the N. side of the entrance to Hampton Roads (p. 561),
with the Atlantic Ocean in front and Chesapeake Bay (p. 208)
opening to the N.
Point Comfort received its name from Capt. John Smith (p. 561) in
1608 and has long been a favourite seaside-resort, frequented by the
Ifortherners in winter and by the Southerners in summer. The immediate
proximity of Fort Monroe, with its large garrison, adds a characteristic
feature to the gaiety of the place. Good bathing, boating, golf, and
'crabbing' are among the attractions, and the Hotel Chamberlin has a
shooting-preserve of 10,000 acres on the Chickahominy River (quail, duck,
wild turkey, woodcock, snipe, and 'sora' or rail ; railway return-fare $ 1.75,
guide $1.50 per day, with dogs $2; shooting license $10). In winter the
temperature rarely falls below 40°, and in summer it seldom exceeds 80°.
Steamers ply hence to Norfolk {^/zhr.; 25c.), Baltimore, Richmond
(R. 89a; fare § IV2), Washington (fare $2-3), and New York (Old Dominion
Line, in 24 hrs.). Norfolk is also reached by ferry to Willoughhy Spit and
electric car thence (through-fare 35 c). — Electric line to Hampton and
Newport News (1 hr.), see pp. 561, 562. Another electric tramway runs
to (21/2 M.) Buckrow Beach, with a summer-hotel.
*Fort Monroe, 100 yds. from the Chamberlin Hotel, was con-
structed in 1819 et seq. to command the mouth of the James River
and the approach to the Norfolk Navy Yard and to furnish a base of
operations against a hostile fleet attempting to enter Chesapeake
Bay. The ramparts are about 2 M. in circumference, affording a fine
walk, and enclose an area of 80 acres, which resembles a beautiful
park. Outside the ramparts is a broad moat. Guard - mounting
(11,30 a.m. ; on Sun. 9.30 a.m.) and dress -parade are great attrac-
tions to the visitor. The fort is garrisoned by a battalion of heavy
artillery and is the seat of the Artillery School of the U. S. Army.
It contains a museum of military relics. Jefferson Davis was con-
fined here for a year and a half after the Civil War, and then re-
564 Route 89. PETERSBURG.
leased without a trial. Off-shore is the low island of the Rip-Raps,
almost covered by the works of Fort Wool.
Pleasant excursions may be made from Old Point Comfort to Norfolk
(p. 561), Hampton (3 M.), Newport News (p. 561), etc. The steamer 'Mobjack',
leaving Norfolk in the early morning and calling at Old Point Comfort
1 hr. later, makes a pleasant all-day excursion to points on Mobjack Bay
(fare $15 meals a la carte).
c. Vi& Norfolk & Western Railway.
110 M. Railway to (104 M.) Norfolk in 21/4-81/3 hrs. (fare $2.50).
Steameb thence to (6 M.) Old Point Comfort in 1/2 br. (fare 25 c). —
This railway traverses the seat of the final struggles of the Civil "War
(see below).
Richmond, see p. 555. — 8 M. Drewry Bluff (j^. 560); 13 M.
Chester.
23 M. Petersburg (Chesterfield Ho., R. from $1; Imperial,
Shirley, $2-3; Rail. Restaurant), a manufacturing town of 21,810
inhab., on the Appomattox, is of interest as the centre of the final
operations of the Civil War. The ivy-clad rnins of the old Bland-
ford Church are picturesque. A large stone bowl, at the N. end of
the railway-bridge over the Appomattox, is known as 'Pocahontas'
Wash Basin' (comp. p. 560).
Battlefields. When Grant crossed to the S. side of the James Eiver
in June, 1864 (comp. p. 559), be made City Point his base of supplies and
spread his lines towards the W., so as to shut up Lee and his Confederate
forces in Petersburg. The so-called Siege of Petersburg lasted from June
16th, 1864, to April 2nd, 1865; and during its continuance 13 pitched battles
were fought in the neighbourhood. The intrenchments of Lee and Grant
still form conspicuous features in the landscape; Grant's lines extended
from the Appomattox to Fort Fisher, and thence E. to Fort Bross , a dis-
tance of 23 M. One of the best-known engagements was that of the Old
Crater, to the E. of the city, on Griffith''s Farm, where a small museum
of war-relics is shown. Carriages (SI-IV2 per hr.) and saddle-horses to
visit the entrenchments and battlefields may be hired at the Petersburg
hotels, and guides may also be obtained.
From Petersburg a branch-line runs to (123 M.) Lynchburg., on the
main line of the railway (see p. 569), passing (100 M.) Appomattox, near
which, at Appomattox Court House, the Civil War ended on April 9th,
1865, in the surrender of Gen. Lee and his forces to Gen. Grant. — An
electric line runs to Eichmond (IV4 hr.).
We now traverse a district of pine-forest. SQ M. Disputanta;
50 M. Wakefield ; 67 M. Windsor. Farther on the train skirts the
N. margin of the Great Dismal Swamp, which may be visited from
(79 M.) Suffolk (55 ft.), at the head of the Nansemond River.
The Dismal Swamp (celebrated by Longfellow, in one of his anti-
slavery poems , and also by Tom Moore), 40 M. long and 35 M. wide, is
intersected by canals (the cliief one. 22 M. long, connecting Cbesapeake
Bay with Albemarle Sound) and yields a large quantity of cedar, cypress,
juniper, and other timber. The great American Cedar Factory at Richmond
gets most of its material from this swamp. At Suff"olk we may hire a
man and a canoe to paddle us as far as (10 M.) Lake Drummond and back
by the Jericho Run Canal, a novel and interesting trip.
104 M. Norfolk, see p. 561. — Thence to (110 M.) Old Point
Comfort, see p. 563.
565
90. From Washington to Louisville.
Comp. Map^ p. 156.
660 M, Chesapeake & Ohio Railway in 19V2-21 hrs. (fare $ 16, sleeper
$ 4; through-train from New York in 27 hrs , fare $ I8Y2, sleeper $5). —
The scenery on this route is varied and often very fine, especially in
crossing the Blue Ridge and Allegheny Mts. and in the valleys of the
Greenbrier and the l^ew River. Numerous places connected with the history
of the Civil War are passed in Virginia. The C. & 0. Railway issues a
'Battle Field Folder' giving particulars.
Washington, see p. 211. From Washington to (86 M.) Orange
the line follows the tracks of the Southern Railway (see R. 91a).
At (93 M.) Oordonsville (440 ft.), the scene of a battle on
Dec. 28th, 1864, we are joined by the line from Richmond and Old
Point Comfort.
115 M. Charlottesville (400 ft.; Jefferson Pcrfe, at Fry Springs,
$21/2-3; Oleason^ Clermont, $2-21/2; Rug^ Hall; Rail. Restaurant'),
a town of 6449 inhab., on Moore's Creek, is of interest as the home
of Jefferson and the site of the University of Virginia.
The •University of Virginia (visible to the left from the train), founded
in 1819, mainly through the exertions of Thomas Jefferson, lies IV2 M.
to the W. of the town (street -car 5c.) and is attended by 800 students.
The original buildings erected from Jefferson's designs consist mainly of
parallel ranges of one-story dormitories and profes'-ors' hou-ies, the inner
rows borderng a tree-shaded campus, at <.ne end of which stands the
Rotunda (view from root), restored by McKim, Mead, & White in 1897 after
a fire and now containing the library. At the other end of the lawn are
Cabell Hall, the Mechanical Laboratory, and the Physical Laboratory. The
buildings also include the Lewis Brooks Museum of Natural History (8-6;
with a facsimile of the mammoth), the Observatory, an Hospital., a Chapel,
and a Students' Dining Hall. — Pantops Academy, 2 M. off, is frequented by
boys from all over the country and also from abroad.
Monticello, the home of Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826), is finely situated
on a view-commanding hill, 21/2 M to the S.E. of Charlottesville, and is
an interesting example of the ;irchitecture of the period (visitors not ad-
mitted to the interior; grounds open to the public). The great statesman
is buried in a small private graveyard adjoining the road leading to
the house.
A visit may be paid to the Monticello Wine Co., where various wines
are produced from the grapes of the vicinity. The Charlottesville Woollen
Mills, to the E., make uniforms for army officers and West Point cadets.
From Charlottesville to Lynchburg and the South, see R 91 a.
Our line now runs towards the W. and begins to ascend among
the Blue Ridge Mts., threading many tunnels. 137 M. Afton
(1405 ft.; Afton Ho., $2-21/2; Mountain Top Ho., II/2M. from Afton
and 2000 ft. above the sea, $2), pleasantly situated near the top
of the ridge (tunnel) and affording fine views of the Piedmont Valley
far below us. The orchards of this region produce the famous
^Albemarle pippin'. 141 M. Basic City (p. 598). — 154 M. Staunton
(1385 ft.; Eakleton, $2-2V2; Palmer Ho., $2), an industrial town
with 7289 inhab. and several large educational institutions, lies on
the plateau between the Blue Ridge and the Allegheny Mts., at the
head of the Shenandoah Valley.
Staunton is the junction of a line (B. &0. R.R.) to (36 M.) Lexington
(Lexington, $ 2-2V2), the seat of the Washington and Lee University (450 stu-
566 Route 90. HOT SPRINGS. From Washington
dents; good portraits, by C. W. Peale, of Washington and Lafayette) and
the Virginia Military Institute. Generals Robert E. Lee and '■StonewalV Jack-
ton are both buried here, and statues of them have been erected.
North Mt. (2065 ft.) rises to tlie right near (167 M.) the station
of that name (1645 ft.). 186 M. Goshen (1410 ft. ; AUegheny Hotel,
finely sitnated on a bluff to the left, $3-5). — 193 M. Millboro
(1680 ft.) is the station for (p^/2 M.) Rockbridge Alum Springs
(2000 ft. ; Hotels, $ 2-81/2), for (2 M.) Millboro Springs, for (10 M.)
Bath Alum Springs, etc. — 210 M. Clifton Forge (1045 ft. ; Gladys
Hotel, $ 2 V2"3 ; Rail. Restaurant), on the Jackson River, is the junc-
tion of the James River Branch of the G. & 0. R.R. To the left flows
the picturesque Jackson. — From (223 M.) Covington (1245 ft. ;
Intermont, $2-5) a branch-line runs to Hot Springs.
Fbom Covington to Hot Springs, 25 M., railway in 1^/4 hr. (through-
sleeper from New York via Washington). — Hot Springs are connected by
good roads, traversed by coaches, with (2V2 M.) Healing Springs and (5 M.)
Warm Springs. All these thermal springs, situated in a mountain-girt
valley 2(XjO-2500 ft. above sea-level, are used both for drinking and bathing
and are efficacious in gout, rheumatism, liver and cutanenus complaints,
dyspepsia, scrofula, etc. All are provided with ample hotel and cottage
accommodation, the transient rates varying from $ 2 per day at the Healing
Springs Hotel to $ 5 per day at the *New Homestead Hotel at Hot Springs
(cheaper by the week or longer). The Alphin ($ 3-4) at Hot Springs, a
smaller house, is also well spoken of. The Hot Springs have a temperature
of 78-110° Fahr., the Warm Springs of 98°, and the Healing Springs of 84°.
The scenery in the neighbourhood is picturesque, and numerous pleasant
excursions can be made. There is a golf-course at Hot Springs, Game-suppers,
with 'Virginia'' cooking, at the Fassifern Farm are a popular feature.
Farther on we cross Dunlap Creek and Jerry^s Run Fill, 220 ft.
high. Both before and after (239 M.) Alleghany (2070 ft.), on the
crest of the Allegheny Mts., we thread a long tunnel. Coaches run
hence to (9 M.) Sweet Chalybeate Springs (Hotel, $ 2-3) and (10 M.)
Sweet Springs (2000 ft.; $2-272)5 one of the oldest and most popular
of Virginian resorts (water good for dyspepsia, dysentery, etc.). —
The line descends. We now enter West Virginia (p. 189).
245 M. Greenbrier White Sulphur Springs (2000 ft. ; * Grand
Central Hotel, $ 31/2 per day, $21 per week; The Greenbrier, from
$ 3 ; numerous boarding-houses and cottages) is finely situated in
the heart of the A-lleghenies and is visited annually by large num-
bers of guests.
For over a century the Greenbrier White Sulphur Springs were the
typical resort of the wealth and aristocracy of the South; and the pic-
tures of Southern life, beauty, and fashion still seen here will be found of
great interest by the European or Northern visitor. The valley is well
wooded and affords delightful drives.
The temperature of the water is 62° Fahr. and its chief ingredients are
nitrogen, oxygen, carbonic acid, hydro-sulphuric acid, sulphates of lime and
magnesia, and carbonate of lime. It is used both internally and exter-
nally, and is efficacious in dyspepsia, liver complaints, nervous aflfections,
gout, rheumatism, skin diseases, asthma, etc. Mud baths are also used.
The spring yields 30 gallons per minute. Large swimming-baths.
Among the most prominent of the mountains enclosing the valley are
Kate's Mt. (3500 ft.), 1 M. to the S.; Qi-eenbrier (3500 ft.), 1 M. to the W.^
and the White Rock (3200 ft.), 3 M. to the S.W.
to LouisvilU. LOUISVILLE. 90. Route. 567
The train now descends the valley of the Oreenbrier. Many
tunnels. 255 M. Bonceucrte (Ronceverte, $2) is the junction of a
branch-line to (104 M.) Winterbum and also the starting-point of
the coach to (16 M.) Salt Sulphur Springs (2000 ft.; Hotels, $2-
21/2). Coaches run from (278 M..) Talcott (1550 ft.) to (12 M.)
Bed Sulphur Springs (Hotel, $ 21/2)5 resembling the Eaux Bonnes
of the Pyrenees (54° Fahr.). Beyond (295 M.) Einton (1370 ft.)
we follow the New River^ with its romantic falls. 312 M. Quin-
nimont (1195 ft.); 342 M. HawWs Nest (825ft.; hotel), opposite a
huge cliff 1200ft. high; 351 M. Kanawha Falls (QIO ft.\ with a
pretty waterfall on the Kanawha River, formed by the confluence
(2 M. above) of the New River and the Oauley
The train now leaves the picturesque scenery and reaches a more
open district. Numerous coal-mines. To the right flows the Kana-
wha. — 387 M. Charleston (605 ft; Hot. Ruffner, $21/2-31/2), the
capital of West Virginia, a city of 11,099 inhab., with a iState House.
A fine bridge, 75 ft. high, leads across the river from the station to
the city. — At (434 M.) Ouyandotte (560 ft.) we reach the Ohio
River. At (437 M.) Huntington (Rail. Restaurant) we change from
Eastern to Central time (p. xiv). 445 M. Kenova is named from
its position at the conjunction of Kentucky, Ohio, and (W.) Vir-
ginia. At (447 M.) Catlettsburg (560 ft.) we cross the Big Sandy
and enter Kentucky (the 'Blue Grass State'). The train now follows
the left bank of the Ohio all the way to Cincinnati. At (453 M.)
Ashland (680 inhab.) the line forks, the right branch running via
Maysville to (146 M.) Cincinnati (see R. 60 b). Our line keeps to
the left. 527 M. Olympia, for (21/2 M.) Olympia Springs (Hotel,
$ 2-21/2); 542 M. Mt. Sterling, the junction of a branch-line to (20 M.)
Rothwell. At (557 M.) Winchester we cross the L. & N. R. R. and
at (576 M.) Lexington (p. 582) the Texas Pacific Railway. 629 M.
Shelbyville. "We cross the Ohio in entering (660 M.) Louisville.
Louisville. — Railway Stations. Union Depot, on the river, between
7th and 8th Sts., for the Baltimore, Ohio, & South-Western, the Southern,
the C. C. C. & St. L., and other railways; Union Station, 10th St., cor. Broad-
way (a handsome building), for the Louisville and Nashville, and other lines 5
14th Street Depot, for the Pennsylvania R. E.
Hotels. Seelbachs, Walnut St., cor. 4th St., E. from $2; Seelbach
Annex (for men), Main St., R from § 1; Galt House, Main St., cor. ist St.,
R. from $ IVz", Lolisville Hotel, Main St., between 6th and 7th Sts.,
$ 3-5, E. from $ 11/2; Willakd's, Fifth Avenue, from$ 2.
Electric Tramways traverse all the principal streets and run to the
suburbs (5 c). Interurban electric lines ply to Indianapolis (p. 401) and to
several small places near Louisville. — Cabs from the stations or wharf
into the town 25-50 c. each person; per hr. $ IV2, each addit. hr. $1. —
Ferries ply to Jeffersonville. — Steamers run to Cincinnati, Evansville,
and other places on the Ohio and Mississippi.
Theatres. Macauley's, Walnut St.; Masonic, Chestnut St.; Mary
Anderson, 4th St., near Chestnut St.; Avenue, Fourth Ave.; Buckingham
(burlesques), Jefferson St. — Pendennis Club, Walnut St., near 4th Ave.;
Tavern Club, 3rd St., near Chestnut St. (introduction necessary at these).
Post Office, cor. of 4th Ave. and Chestnut St. (7 a.m. to 10 p.m. ; Sun.
9-10 a.m.).
568 Route 90. LOUISVILLE.
Louisville (450 ft. ; the 'Falls City'), tlie largest city of Ken-
tucky and the entrepot of the lower Ohio, which here descends 26 ft.
within 2 M., lies on a level plain and extends for 6 M. along the river.
Pop. (1900) 204,731 (now 250,000).
Louisville was founded by Col. George Rogers Clark in 1778 and
named in honour of Louis XVI. of France. It received its city charter
in 1828, when its population was about 10,000. In 1850 it contained
43,194 inhab., in 1870 it had 100,753, and in 1890 it had 161,129. In March,
1890, Louisville was visited by a terrific tornado, which swept through the
heart of the city with a width of G00-800ft., levelling almost everything
that stood in its way, destriiying property to the /alue of $3,000,000, and
killing 76 persons. — Audubon (1780-1^51), the naturalist, was a resident
of Louisville f^ir some years. — The 'Kentucky Derby' is held here in May.
Since the Civil War Louisville has rapidly grown in importance as
one of the chief gateways to the S.W. Its trade, both by river and rail,
is very large; and the value of its manufactures in 1900 was $78,746,390
(15,749.278?.). It is the largest leaf tobacco market in the world, the sales
amounting annually to 180,000 hogsheads, valued at about $11,000,000,
and is second in importance for manufactured tobacco. Its sales of
Kentucky whiskey are also very extensive, and the mule-market rivals that
of St. Louis (p. 413). Other important industries are pork-packing, brew-
ing, and the making of iron, farm waggons, ploughs, cement, leather,
flour, blue jeans, and cast-iron gas and water pipes. — Natural gas (p. 198j
is larfjely used here.
The Falls of the Ohio, adjoining the Kentucky & Indiana Bridge
(see p. 569), are rapids rather than falls and are scarcely visible when the
river is full. Vessels are enabled to avoid them by a canal 2^/2 M. long.
Perhaps the most prominent building in Louisville is the Custom
House, in Chestnut St., between 3rd and 4th Sts. The Court House
is in Jefferson St., between 5th and 6th Sts., and is adjoined by
the City Hall, with its square clock-tower. — The Louisville Public
Library, at the cor. of 4th and York Sts., contains 113,000 vols.,
an art-gallery, and a small museum, including the *Troost Collection
of Minerals. — The Farmers' Tobacco Warehouse, in Main St., the
centre of the tobacco trade, has a storage capacity of nearly 7000 hogs-
heads and sells about 30 million pounds of leaf tobacco yearly.
Public auctions of tobacco take place here almost daily. — The
University of Louisville, cor. of 8th and Chestnut Sts., is a hand-
some building (800 students). — The Lincoln Bank, cor. of 4th and
Market Sts., is 15 stories high (_*View from upper windows and roof).
No stranger in Louisville should omit to visit *Cave Hill Cem-
etery, which lies on the E. margin of the city (tramway) and is very
prettily laid out. The high grounds in it command good views.
The large building with a dome seen to the N.E. is the State Blind
Asylum, containing the American Printing House for the Blind. A
little nearer is the Workhouse. Among the monuments in the cem-
etery is one to the family of George Keats, the younger brother of the
poet, who emigrated to the United States in 1818 and died at Louis-
ville in 1842. — Fourth Avenue (tramway), with many pleasant
residences, leads S., passing the pretty little Central Park, to the
Racecourse. Louisville possesses three fine parks : Iroquois Park,
*Cherokee Park (well worth a visit), and Shawnee Park, to the S.,
LYNCHBURG. 91. Route. 569
E., and W. of the city. The First Regiment Armoury has an enor-
mons drill-hall and can seat 15,000 persons.
The Louisville Bridge, 1 M. long, crossing to the W. end of
Jeffersonville, was built in 1868-72 and has 27 iron spans supported
by limestone piers. The Kentucky and Indiana Bridge, leading to
New Albany (p. 417), is V2 M. long (1886). A third bridge, also
leading to Jeffersonville, was constructed in 1892.
Zachary Taylor (1784-1850) is buried near his old home, 5 M. to the
E. of Louisville (monument).
From Louisville to the Mammoth Gave, Nashville, and New Orleans, see
R. 92b5 to Memphis and New Orleans, see R. 92 c; to Cincinnati, see R. 92 b, c.
— A visit to the Wyandotte Cave (p. 417) ia easily made from Louisville by
rail or steamer.
Fkom LoDisviLLE TO LEXINGTON, 87 M., Southem E. R. inSVzhrs. (also
in about the same time by the L. & N. or C. & O, R. R.). The Lexington
branch diverges at (6872 M) Laiorenceburg from the main line to Chatta-
nooga. — 87 M. Lexington^ in the 'Blue Grass Country'', see p. 582.
Pious pilgrims may visit the log-cabin in which Abrah.im Lincoln
(1809-18(55) was born by travelling via the Illinois Central R. R. to (64 M.)
the village of Hodgensville.
91. From Washington to New Orleans.
a. Vili, Southern Railway and Atlanta.
Comp. Map, p. 156.
1145 M. Railway in 32-36 hrs. (fare $27.50; sleeper $6.50, tourist
sleeper $ 8.25). Through vestibuled train (resembling that described at
p. 229. from New York to New Orleans in 41-44 hrs. (fare $34; sleeper $ 8).
From Washington (p. 211) the line runs at first towards the S.W.
Numerous earthworks and rifle-pits, grim mementoes of the Civil
War, catcL the practised eye on both sides of the line. 8 M. Alexan-
dria (p. 228). To the left lies the National Cemetery [p. 227). —
34 M. Manassas (315 ft; Manassas Ho., $2) was the scene of two
battles during the Civil War (monument to the right).
In the &Tat Battle of Manassas or Bull Run (July 21st, 1861), which was
the first important conflict of the war, the Federals under McDowell were
routed by the Confederates under Beauregard and thrown back on Wash-
ington. In the second battle (Aug. 29-3Uth, 1862), fought on almost the
same ground, 3 M. to the right, Lee defeated the Federals under Pope.
At (57 M.) Remington we cross the North Fork. 69 M. Culpeper
(Millar's , Waverly , from $ 2) was an important point during
the Civil War and is now the site of a National Cemetery. The
Rapidan River, which we cross at (80 M.) Rapidan^ was another
name frequently heard during the struggle in Virginia. 86 M.
Orange. — At (114 M.) Charlottesville (p. 565 ; Rail. Restaurant)
we intersect the C. & 0. Ry. (R. 90). We continue to run thence
towards the S.W., with the Blue Ridge at some distance to the right.
174 M. Lynchburg (525 ft. ; Carroll, $ 21/2-4 ; Arlington, $ 2-21/25
Rail. Restaurant'), an industrial and tobacco - exporting city of
18,891 inhab., picturesquely situated on the S. bank of the James.
Baedeker'8 United States. 4th Edit. 36
bio Route 91. CHARLOTTE. From Washington
We here intersect the C. & 0. and the Norfolk & Western Railways
(see p. 575).
Near Lynchburg is the Randolph Macon Woman's College (385 atudents),
the foremost woman's college of the South,
Farther on we cross several streams and pass numerous small
stations. — 240 M. Danville (410 ft.; Burton, $21/2-4; ^ail.
Restaurant)^ a busy town of 16,520 inhab., on the Dan^ in the centre
of a tobacco-growing region, is the junction for Richmond (p. 602).
Beyond Danville we enter North Carolina ('Old North State'). —
288 M. Greensboro (840 ft.; Benhow, from $21/2, R- from $ 1), a
growing town of 10,035 inhab., with a trade in tobacco, coal, and iron.
Feom Greensbobo to Raleigh and Goldsboko, 130 M., railway in
6-8V3 hrs. This line passes through a cotton and tobacco growing country.
— 17 M. Hlon College; 21 M. Burlington, with cotton-mUls. — 46 M. Uni-
versity is the junction of a branch-line to (10 M.) Chapel Hill, the site of
the University of North Carolina, founded in 1795 (775 students). — 55 M.
Durham (St. Helen, $ 2V2-3), a city of 16,0tX) inhab., is one of the chief tobacco-
making places in America. Duke'^s and the Blackwell Co. Factories together
manufacture over 35,000,0001bs. of tobacco yearly. Trinity Co i^egre (275 students;
Methodist Episcopal) has been handsomely endowed by the tobacco magnates,
Col. Duke and Col. Carr. A branch-line to Richmond passes (70 M.) Chase
City, near which is the 'Mecklenburg Hotel (from $ 3), with an excellent
lithia spring. — At (81 M.) Raleigh (p. 680j we intersect the Seaboard Air
Line (R. 91 c). — 109 M. Selma is the junction of the line to Norfolk (see
below) — 130 M. Ooldsboro (110 ft.; Hotel Kennon, $2V2-3), a small place
with 5877 inhab., is connected by railway with (59 M.) New Bern {Hazleton,
Chatiawka, $ 2-2V2), on the Neuse River, (95 M.) Morehead, and (98 M.)
Beaufort, both on the Atlantic coast.
From Greensboro to Norfolk, 270 M., railway in 91/2 hrs. — From
Greensboro to (lOd M.) Selma, see above. Our line here diverges to the
left from that to Goldsboro and runs towards the N. 134 M. Wilson. At
(150 M.) South Rocky Mount we connect with the Atlantic Coast Line (p. 602)
and cross the Tar or Pamlico River. 178 M. Hohgood; 246 M. Suffolk (p. 564) ;
260 M. Bruce; 264 M. Pinner's Point. — 270 M, Norfolk, see p. 561.
A line also runs from Greensboro, via (29 31.) Winston-Salem (Zinzendorf,
R. from $ IV2), an important tobacco-market, and Fayetteville, to (179 M.)
Wilmington (p. 602).
Just beyond Greensboro, to the right, is the battlefield of Guil-
ford Court House (March 15th, 1781), where the British under Com-
wallis defeated the Americans under Greene. — We traverse many
cotton -fields. Near Salisbury we cross the Yadkin. — 337 M.
Salisbury (760 ft; Vandeford, $21/2-3; Central, from $2), with
6277 inhab., was the seat of one of the chief Confederate prisons
in the Civil War, and the National Cemetery contains the graves of
more than 12,000 soldiers who died here in captivity. At Spencer,
adjoining Salisbury, are the chief works of the Southern R. R.
From Salisbury to Asheville and Knoxville, see R. 97.
Near (381 M.) Charlotte (720 ft. ; *The Selwyn, from $ 3, R. from
$11/2; Buford, $2-3), with 35,000 inhab. and important cotton-
manufactures, are some gold mines. It is one of the important towns
of the New South, the junction of lines to Wilmington (p. 602), to
Winston-Salem (see above), to Columbia and Charleston (R. 98 b), etc.
Lord Cornwallis had his headquarters in Charlotte (site marked by a
tablet) more than once and described it as a 'hornet's nest% of which title
to New OrUans. ATLANTA. 91. Route. 571
the inhabitants are still proud. A monument in front of the Court House
celebrates the signing of the Mecklenburg Declaration of Independence,
May 21sl, 1775, which according to a strong tradition substantially anti-
cipated the Jeffersonian.
408 M. All Healing Springs. Near (415 M.) King^s Mountain
(996 ft.) tlie Americans defeated tlie British on Oct. 7tli, 1780, and
near (448 M.) Cowpens is tlie scene of a more important victory of
the patriots (Jan. 17th, 1781), The latter is in South Carolina
('Palmetto State').
457 M. Spartanburg (875 ft. ; Spartan Inn, Argyle Inn, from $ 2),
the junction of lines to Columbia (p. 603) and Asheville (p. 599), is
a thriving little city of 11,395 inhah., in a district of iron and gold
mines and mineral springs. — 488 M. Greenville (970 ft. ; Man-
sion Ho., $2-3), a city with 11,860 inhab., on the Reedy River, is
the junction of a line to Columbia (p. 603). — From (528 M.) Seneca
(945 ft.) the Blue Ridge Railway runs to (9 M.) Walhalla, the nearest
station to (ca. 25 M.) Highlands (3823 ft. ; * Davis Ho., $ 2 ; Highland
Ho., $ 21/2)7 the highest village to the E. of the Rocky Mts., frequented
for its bracing air and charming scenery. — Beyond Seneca we cross
t\^Q Savannah and enter Georgia ('Empire State of the South'). About
2 M. from (555 M.) Toccoa are the beautiful Toccoa Falls (185 ft.
high). 569 M. Mt. Airy (1560 ft.; Monterey, from $21/2) affords a
fine view of Jonah Mt. (3175 ft.) and the Blue Ridge. — The line
now descends, — 571 M. Cornelia is the junction of a short line to
(8 M.) Clarksville and (21 M.) Tallulah Falls.
Clarksville (1365 ft. 5 Groves Eo.^ MountainView, $2) is a convenient point
from which to explore the fine scenery of the Georgia portion of the Blue
Ridge Mts. — The *Tallulah Falls [Cliff House, Tallulah Lodge, $2-31/2),
400 ft. high, lie in the deep gorge of the Tallulah or Terrora, which here
cuts across the Blue Eidge. — Other points of interest in this district
are the Valletf of Nacoochee, 8- 10 M. to the N.W. of Clarksville, and the
Falls of the Eastatoia, 15 M. to the N. of Tallulah Falls.
From (583 M.) Lula a branch-line runs to (39 'M..') Athens (p. 581).
— 595 M. Gainesville (1200 ft. ; Arlington, Mount View, $ 2), a
smaU town of 4382 inhab. ; 618 M. Suwanee (1025 ft.). Farther on
-Stone Mt. (1685 ft.), a huge mass of granite, is seen to the left (in
the distance).
649 M. Atlanta (The Piedmont, R. from $11/2; The Aragon,
R. from $ 11/2; Kimball Ho., $21/2-5, R. $ 1V2-4; Majestic, $ 21/2;
Ballard, from $2, R. from 50c.; Rail. Restaurant; Ger. Consul,
Dr. E. Zoepffel), the capital of Greorgia (the 'Gate City'), with
89,872 inhab., is a prosperous commercial and industrial city, and an
important railway-centre (comp. pp. 579, 581, 611). It is well situated
1030-1175 ft. above the sea, and enjoys a healthy and bracing climate.
The chief point of interest in the history of Atlanta, which was
founded in 1840, is its siege and capture (Sept. 2nd , 1864) by Gen. Sher-
man, who, after holding the city for two months, here began his famous
'March to the Sea' (comp. p. 609). The business-quarter was previously
burned down, by design or by accident, but has been rebuilt on a finer and
more modern plan. Atlanta is one of the chief distributing points in the
36*
572 Route 91. TUSKEGEE. From Washington
South for Northern and Western manufactures. The great staples of its
domestic trade are tobacco and cotton. Among its industrial products are
temperance drinks (notably Coca-Cola), cotton, fertilizers, furniture, patent
medicines, car-wheels, tlour, and iron (value in 1907, $40,000,000).
A good view of Atlanta and its environs may be had from tbe top of
the fine Candler Building (opposite the Piedmont Hotel; open 11-12 a.m.).
The city has two stadons, the old Union Station (used by the
Seaboard Air Line and the L. & N.), and the new Terminal Station
(Mitch 11 St.), nsed by the Southern, the Georgia Central, and the
West Point R.R. A little to the S. of the old Union Station is the
State Capitol, which contains a library of about 60,000 vols, and an
interesting Geological Collection. A little to the N.W. is the New
Court House; and farther to the N., beyond the railway, are the
Custom House and the L. if N. Freight House, an enormous concrete
structure. The City Hall, the Chamber of Commerce, the Opera House,
the *Carnegie Library (of white marble), the Century Building, the
Empire Building, the Equitable Building, the Jewish Temple, and
the First Methodist Church are notable edifices. Among the chief
educational establishments are the Georgia School of Technology
(400 students; a branch of the University at Athens, p. 581), the
Atlanta University (340 coloured students), the Agnes Scott Institute,
and the Clark University (500 coloured students). The finest private
houses are in Peachtree Street.
In the suburb of West End was the home of Joel Chandler Harris ('Uncle
Eemus' ; d. 190S). To the S. of the city are the large AdcPherson Barracks.
i-KOM Atlanta to Bikmingham, 16S"M., Southern Railway in oVi-BV* hrs.
— The chief intermediate station is (104 M.) Anniston (810 ft.; Alabama.
$ 3; Anniston Inn, S 2V2-4), situated among the fnot-hills of the Blue Ridjie,
It is surrounded with rich beds of brown iron ore. Pop. (11)00) 9695.
Among its chief buildings are the fine Church of St. Michael and All Angels,
the Noble Institute for Boys and Oirls, and the Barber Memorial Seminary,
for coloured girls. — 1B8 M. Birmingham, see p. 579. Birmingham is also
reached from Atlanta by the Seaboard Air Line (171 M., in 5-6 hrs.).
Our train now passes on to the tracks of the Atlanta ^ West
Point R. R. — 658 M. College Park, with the large and handsome
building of the Southern Female College ; 688 M. Newnan (955 ft,),
the junction of a line to Macon (p. 611). At (736 M.) West Point
(575 ft.) we cross the Chattahoochee, enter AiaSama ('Cotton Plant-
ation State'), and join the lines of the Western Railway of Alabama.
— 758 M. Opelika is the junction of branch-lines to (29 M.) Colum-
bus and to Birmingham (p. 579).
Columbus (Rankin Ho., Racine, $21/2-31/2; Springs, R. $1) is a busy
industrial town of 17,614 inhab., with large cotton, woollen, and flour mills.
From (785 M.) Chehaw a railway runs to (5 M.) Tusk6gee (g hard),
with its interesting Normal and Industrial School for coloured pupils
(1650 students), founded and conducted by Mr. Booker Washington,
the distinguished coloured educationalist. The practical instruction
in scientific agriculture is one of the most successful and interesting
departments of the school (1000 acres; annual value of prodm'-ts of
all kinds, $ 250,000). It is the parent of many smaller institutions
of the same kind in the South. Several of the buildings have been
to New Orleans. MONTGOMERY. 91. Route. 573
erected by the students. In 1903 Mr. Carnegie presented the Tnsk^gee
Institute with $600,000 as the nucleus of an endowment fund.
Comp. 'Tuskegee and its People', edited by B. T. Washington (1905).
— Farther on the Alabama River runs to the right.
824 M. Montgomery (160 ft. 5 Exchange, R. from $1725 ^^^n-
more, $ 21/2-8; Windsor^ $2-21/2 ", Mabson, R. from $ 1 5 Rail. Restau-
rant), the capital and third city of Alabama, lies on the high left
bank of the Alabama, at the head of navigation. It contains (1900)
30,346 inhab. and carries on a large trade in cotton (150,000 bales
annually) and various manufactures. This city is a good example
of the extraordinary industrial development of the South during the
last decade. The dome of the State House affords an extensive view.
In the grounds is a handsome Confederate Monument. The Post Office,
Court House, Carnegie Library, and City Hall are large buildings.
Round the town are many old-fashioned plantation-residences.
In the State House the Confederate Government was inaugurated by
Jefferson Davis on Feb. l(Sth, 1861, whence Montgomery has been called
the 'Cradle of the Conie^eracy'. It was also the scene of Yancey s celebrated
Secession speech on .Ian. Uth, l.'~61. — Hidden hebind the houses in the
street between the Post Office and the State H use is an old Slave Market,
with all its details intact. From Knabe''s Drug Store (uncianged) was de-
spatched the telegraphic order to fire on Fort Sumter (p. 604) in 1861.
We now pass on to the Louisville 4" Nashville R. R. 868 M. Green-
ville. From (883 M.) Georgiana a branch-line leads to (48 M.) Opp,
and another thence to (23 M.) Florala, a new town on the border of
Florida and Alabama. 904 M. Evergreen. — 943 M. Flomaton.
From Flomaton a line runs N to (172 M.) Myrtlewood, passing (83 M.)
Snow Hill, with a highly intere ting institute for coloured students (300),
established by Mr. R 0. Simi^son.
From Flomaton to Pensacola, see p. 630.
Farther on we cross the Tensas and Mobile Rivers and skirt the
estuary of the last to ■—
1004 M. Mobile. — *Battle House, rebuilt in 1908, R. from $ IV2;
*Cawthon Hotel, R. from $1^/2; Hotel Bienville, from $ 21/2, R. from
$1; St. Anuhew (opposite the post-office), R. from $1^ Southern, R. from
75 c. — RailvDoy Restaurant. — Teamways traverse the chief streets (5 c). —
Steamebs ply to points on the Alabama and Tombigbee ; also to New York,
Liverpool, Tampa, Havana, Vera Cruz, etc. — Post Office, at the cor. of
Royal and St. Francis Sts.
Consuls. British Vice-Consul, Mr. Edmund Seiders, Masonic Temple
German Consul, Mr. E. Eolzborn.
Mobile, the largest city and only seaport of Alabama, lies on the
W. side of the Mobile River, just above its entrance into Mobile
Bay. It is situated on a plain, backed by low hills, and is well laid
out. Its broad and quiet streets are shaded with magnolias and live
oaks, and its gardens are fragrant vdth orange blossom and jessamine.
The harbour is approached by a deep-water channel through Mobile
Bay and now admits vessels of 30 ft. draught. At the entrance to
the bay, 30 M. below the city, are two forts. Pop. (1900) 38,469.
Mobile was founded about 1702 by the Sieur de Bienville, who transt
ferred the earliest French colony in this region from Biloxi (p. 574j to
Mobile Bay. It was the capital of Louisiana down to 1723. In 1763 it
574 RouU 91. MOBILE. From Washington
passed, witli part of Louisiana, to Great Britain^ in 1780 it was handed
over to Spain; and in 1803 it became part of the United States by the
'Louisiana Purchase', though the Government did not take possession until
1813. It was incorporated as a city in 1819, with 2500 inhab., a number
that had increased to 20,515 in 1850 and to 32,034 in 1870. In 1864 the
harbour was attacked and closed by Adm. Farragut. The city itself did
not surrender to the Federal troops till April 12th, 1865.
The chief articles of Mobile's commerce are cotton, lumber and manu-
factured wood-products, grain, coal, and naval stores. The value of its
exports in 1907 was $ 29,000,000. Its manufactures include shingles, barrel-
staves, saddlery, bricks, cedar pencils, pearl buttons, cotton-cloths, cotton-
seed oil, cordage, cigars, and beer.
The most ornate building in the city is the Custom House ^
Post Office, at the comer of Royal and St. Francis Sts., erected
at a cost of $250,000 (50,000 Z.). Other important edifices are the
Cotton Exchange, the Court House, the Young Mens Christian Asso-
ciation, the Barton Academy, the U. S. Marine Hospital, the City
Hospital, the Providence Infirmary, the Medical College, the Fidelia,
Elks, and Athelstan (three cluh-hnildings), the Masonic Temple, the
City Bank ^ Trust Co. Buildings, the Southern Market and Armoury,
the Union Depot (1907), and the Cathedral of the Immaculate Con-
ception. The finest priTate honses are in the shady *6overnm€nt
Street. In Duncan Place, at the foot of Government St., near the
Union Station, is a statue of Raphael Semmes (1809-77), commander
of the Confederate cruiser 'Alabama' in the Civil War. The *Shell
Road, extending for 8 M. along the Bay, is the favourite drive.
About 8 M. to the W. is Spring Mill (electric tramway ; hotel), with a
large Roman Catholic College (200 students). Halfway to it we pass a large
Roman Catholic Convent and Academy for Girls. — Monroe Park is a pop-
ular resort on the Shell Road (also reached by tramway). At the S. end
of the Shell Road is Frederic''s Restaurant (fish, game, and oysters). —
More distant resorts of the Mobilians are Point Clear (Grand Hotel, $ SVz),
on the E. shore of the Bay; Gitronelle (Hygeia Hotel, S 2), 80 M. to the
N. ; Magnolia Springs (Woodbound, $2); Alabama Port, on theW. shore of
the Bay •, and Coden and Bayou La Batre, on the Gulf Coast, 33 M from the
city. — Across the bay, 15 M. from Mobile (steamer 25 c), lies Fairhope
(Fairhope Hotel), a thriving little colony (700 inhab.) established on the
, Single Tax' theory of Henry George.
Beyond Mobile the train runs near the Gulf of Mexico, of which
it affords occasional views to the left. It traverses a characteristic
Southern landscape , passing savannahs , cane-brakes , and pine
forest, and crossing several 'bayous'. Palmettoes and moss-draped
live-oaks are among the most characteristic vegetation. Beyond
(1029 M.) Grand Bay we enter Mississippi ('Bayou State'). At
(1044 M.) Scranton we pass on a low trestle across the several forks
of the Pascagoula River, just above their entrance into the bay of the
same name. 1060 M. Ocean Springs (Ocean Springs Ho., $ 2-5), a
seaside-resort with two chalybeate springs. At (1064 M.) Biloxi
(Hotel de Montross, $ 21/2-3 ; Brit, vice-consul, Mr. J. J. Lemon),
where we cross another trestle, the Sieur de Bienville erected a fort
in 1699, before he transferred his colony to Mobile (p. 573). —
Jefferson Davis had his country-home at (1069 M.) Beauvoir, where
he died in 1889. The house has been converted into a Home for
to New Orleans. ROANOKE. 91. Route. 575
Veterans of the Confederate Army. — 1073 M. Mississippi City, a
seaside-resort known for its excellent mackerel fishing. — 1076 M.
Qulfport (Great Southern Hotel, with 250 rooms, R. from $ 11/2)? ^^^
terminus of the Oulf ^ Ship Island R. R. to (169 M.) Jackson
(p. 588), has a railway-pier extending 1 M. into Mississippi Sound.
It possesses the only deep-water harbour between Mobile and New
Orleans and exports great quantities of pine lumber.
1086 M. Pass Christian (*Mexican Gulf Hotel, $3-5; Magnolia,
$ 2^2"^ ; Lynne Castle, $ 2-3) is the chief of the summer and winter
resorts on the 'Gulf Coast'. On learing it we cross a long trestle of
creosoted timber to (1091 M.) Bay St. Louis (Clifton, from $lV2)j
a flourishing little town with 2872 inhabitants.
Beyond (1104 M.) Claiborne we cross the Pearl River and enter
Louisiana ('Pelican State'). Farther on we cross the outlet of Lake
Pontchartrain (p. 636) and traverse the peninsula between it and
Lake Borgne. Lake Catherine (r.) is an arm of the former. 1107 M.
Dunbar, a noted fishing centre, formerly known as English Lookout,
from its occupation by the British army in 1812. — 1118 M. Lake
Catherine Station ; 1124 M. Chef Menteur ,- 1142 M. Pontchartrain
Junction. In entering New Orleans, the train runs down the middle
of the wide street named the 'Champs Elysees'.
1145 M. New Orleans, see R. 109.
b. Vig, Southern Railway, Norfolk & Western Railway,
and Chattanooga.
Comp. Map, p. 156.
1112 M. in 34'/* lirs. Sodthebn Railway to (174 M.) Lynchburg; Nok-
FOLK <fe Westeen Rt. thence to (378 M.) Bristol ; Southern Railway thence
to (620 M.) Chattanooga; Queen & Crescent Route thence to (1112 M.) Ifea
Orleans (through - fare $27.50; sleeper $6.50). — Passengers from New
York are forwarded in through-sleepers (through-fare ^ 34, sleeper $ 9).
From Washington to (174 M.) Lynchburg, see p. 569. We now
pass on to the tracks of the Norfolk & Western Railway, thread a
tunnel, and begin to ascend towards the Blue Ridge Mts. The finely-
shaped *Peaks of Otter (3875-4000 ft.) are seen to the right. They
are best reached by carriage (7 M.) from (199 M.) Bedford (900 ft.;
Hot. Bedford, $ 21/2-3), a small town with 2416 inhab. and various
industries. To the right, beyond it, is the handsome Randolph- Macon
Academy. — At (216 M.) Blue Ridge (1240 ft.), with mineral springs
and a hotel ($ 3), we begin to descend on the other side of the crest.
227 M. Roanoke (905 ft. ; *Hotel Roanoke, $ 21/2-5 5 Ponce de
Leon, $21/2-4; Stratford, St. James, $2), finely situated on the
Staunton River, among the Blue Hills, has grown since 1880, from
the insignificant hamlet of Old Lick (500 inhab.), to a busy city
of 21,495 inhab., with large machine, iron, bridge, carriage, and
other manufactories. The new Federal Building, the Academy of
Music, and the Randolph Market deserve a visit.
576 Route 91. BRISTOL. From Washington
Mountain Park, 2 M. to the S. of the city, reached hy cars, with a
Casino (theatre in summer), affords a view of the river and Roanoke Valley.
Eoanoke is the junction ot various branches of the Norfolk & Western
E,y, (through the Shenandoah Valley to Eagerstoien, see E. 96; to Norfolk,
see p. 561; to Winston Salem, see p. 570).
From (234 M.) Salem (1005 ft.) stages mn to (9 M.) Roanoke
Red Sulphur Springs (Hotel, $ 2). 247 M. Elliston (1250 ft.) ; 251 M.
Shawsville (1475 ft.), tlie station for (7 M.) Crockett Arsenic Lithia
Springs; 255 M. Montgomery, for (1 M.) Montgomery White Sulphur
Springs (tramway); 260 M. Christiansburg (2005 ft.), for (3 M.)
Yellow Sulphur Springs (stage; Hotel, $21/2). — 271 M. East Radford
(1770 ft.; Sliere, $2), on New River.
From East Radfokd to Columbus , 406 M., railway in IdVz hrs. —
This line descends through the Alleghenies along the left hank of the
New River. 22 M. Pembroke (1620 ft.), for (8 M.) Mountain Lake Hotel (4500 ft.;
$ 2-3) ; 26 M. Big Stony Junction. At (40 M.) Glen Lyn it leaves the New River
and ascends to (63 M.) Bluefield, heyond which it traverses the great Poca-
hontas Coal Field. From (76 M.) Bluestone Junction a short branch -line
runs to (1 M.) Pocahontas. Beyond (74 M.) Cooper we thread a tunnel the
sides of which are of coal. We then descend to the Elkhorn and Tug
River, passing below a corner of Kentucky by a long tunnel at (156 M.)
Thacker. From (182 M.) Naugatuck we descend the Twelve Pole River to
(267 M.) Kenova, at the confluence of the Ohio and the Big Sandy. We
cross the former river and enter Ohio. 279 M. fronton. At (306 M.) Ports-
mouth we leave the Ohio and ascend the Scioto Valley, which is full of
interesting remains of the 'Mound Builders' (comp. p. Ixiv). Some of the
most extensive of these are near Portsmouth, which is 35 M. by railway
from Peebles (Serpent Mound; p. 408). Near (330 M.) Piketon is a remark-
able 'Graded Way\ 1080 ft. long. 355 M. Chillicothe (p. 404) also lies amid
numerous mounds and circles. 375 M. Circleville. — 406 M. Columbus,
see p. 349.
286 M. Pulaski (1905 ft.; Maple Shade Inn, open in summer
only, $2-21/2; Pulaski, $2), a busy little iron and zinc making
town with 2813 inhab., is connected by a branch-line with the
Cripple Creek District, with its rich deposits of brown hematite iron
ore. 299 M. Max Meadows (2015 ft.) ; 307 M. Wytheville (2230 ft.;
Fourth Avenue, Otey, Boyd, $ 2), a frequented snmmer-resort. To
the S. (left) are the Lick Mts., here dividing the valley into two
branches. 320 M. Rural Retreat (2500 ft.), the highest point on the
line; 334 M. Marion (2125 ft.), with the State Insane Asylum.
378 M. Bristol (1700 ft.; Hamilton, from $2; St. Lawrence,
$3), a tobacco market with 4579 inhab., lies on the boundary be-
tween Virginia and Tennessee. The train now passes on to the track
of the Southern R. R. — The scenery continues picturesque. —
403 M. Johnson City (1630 ft.), with a Soldiers' Home (3600 in-
mates), erected at a cost of $ 3,000,000.
A narrow-gauge railway, known as the 'Cranberry Stem Winder\ as-
cends through the Doe River Canyon (1500 ft. deep) to (26 M.) Roan Mt. Station
and (34 M ) Cranberry. From Roan Mt Station stages (S 2) run to (12 M.)
the Cloudland Hotel ($21/2), on the summit of Roan Mt. (6315 ft.), the
highest human habitation to the E. of the Rocky Mts. The =View hence
is very extensive, some authorities considering it the finest in Western North
Carolina. The rhododendrons and azaleas are at their best between June
20th and July 10th. Excursions may be made hence over the mountain-
roads to Hot Springs and (80 M.) AshevilU (p. 599).
to New Orleans. KNOXVILLE. 91. Route. ^"^"^
On a Mil to the left as we leave (435 M.) Oreeneville is the grave
monnment of Andrew Johnson (1808-75), a resident of the district.
— 467 M. Morristown (1385 ft,), the JTinction of the line to Ashe-
ville and Salisbnry described in R. 97.
A short branch-line runs hence to Tate Spring (Hotel, $2-5), near
the base of Clinch Mt. (ca. 2500 ft.).
Beyond Morristown we enjoy freqnent glimpses of the Holston
River, which we cross before reaching Knoxville.
509 M. Knoxville (930 ft.; Imperial, $2V2-5; Colonial, Strat-
ford, R. from $1; Cumberland, $2-3), the chief city of E. Tennessee,
is finely sitnated on the Tennessee River, formed 4 M. farther np by
the junction of the Holston and the French Broad. Pop. (1900)
32,637 (with snbnrbs, over 65,000). It is the centre of a coal-
mining district and of the Tennessee marble district, from which
350,000 cubic ft. of this beautiful stone are annually shipped.
It has a large trade in country produce and various manufactures.
About a dozen different lines radiate from its two railway-stations.
Among the chief buildings are the University of Tennessee (750 stu-
dents), the Agricultural College (belonging to the University), the
Custom House, the Court House (with statue of John Sevier, first
Governor of Tennessee, in its grounds; 1744-1815), the Lawson-
McOhee Library, the Second Presbyterian Church, St. John's Episcopal
Church, the Deaf ^ Dumb School, the City Hospital, the Knoxville
College (coloured students), and the Market House.
Knoxville, founded in 1T91, was the first capital of Tennessee. In 1863
the city and the adjoining Fort Sanders were unsuccessfully besieged by
the Confederates. — Fresh- water pearls are found in great numbers in the
vicinity. — The Summer School of the South for teachers (2000 students) is
held annually in the grounds of the University. — Visits may be paid to the
National Cemetery, Gray Cemetery^ Chilhowee Park (E.), and Fountain City (^.). —
A log-cabin in E. Front Ave. is shown as the home of George Farragut,
father of Admiral Farragut (1801-70). The latter was born at Lowers Ferry,
13 M. to the S.W., where a memorial to him was unveiled in 19(i0.
Mountaineers may go by train to (1" M.) Maryville (Jackson Ho., S 2),
25 M. (drive) from Thunderhead Peak (5520 ft.), one of the finest of the
Great Smoky Mts. (ascent, with guide, in 7-8 hrs. ; ^^View). — Not far ofl",
to the E., is a reservation containing about 1800 Cherokee Indians.
A branch of the Southeen Railway runs from Knoxville to (65 M.)
♦Cumberland Gap (1315 ft.), the chief pass across the Cumberland Mts..
between Virginia and Kentucky, and to (69 M.) Middlesboro {The Middles-
borough, from $ 2 ; Cumberland Ho., $ 2^/2), a small iron-making town with
4162 inhabitants. In approaching the Gap the railway passes through
a tunnel, 3750 ft. long, which begins in Tennessee, passes under a corner
of Virginia, and comes out in Kentucky. The Lincoln Memorial llniversity,
adjoining the Gap, is attended by 400 "students.
Railways also run from Knoxville to Louisville (p. 567), Cincinnati
(p. 405), Atlanta (p. 571), etc.
The part of the Appalachians bounding the S. horizon at this part
of our route is known as the Great Smoky Mts. (5-6000 ft.), fam-
iliar to the readers of Charles Egbert CraddocWs novels. At (640 M.)
Loudon (815 ft.) we cross and quit the Tennessee River. 564 M.
Athens (975 ft.,) with the preparatory department of the University
of Chattanooga (left; see p. 578),
578 Route 91. CHATTANOOGA. From Washington
At (591 M.) Cleveland (865 ft.; Artz Ho., $2), an industrial city
with 3858 inhab. , tlie railway forks, one branch running via Rome
to Atlanta, Macon, and Brunswick (see p. 579), while our line leads
via Chattanooga to Birmingham and New Orleans.
The line from Cleveland to Brunswick unites with that from Chatta-
nooga to Brunswick at (15 M.) Cofiutta (p. 579).
Farther on we cross the Citico Creek and thread a tunnel.
620 M. Chattanooga (675 ft.; Patten, R. from $ IV2; Williams;
Read Ho. , with an excellent restaurant, R. from $ 1 ; Southern Hotel,
$21/2-3, these two near the Union Station ; Railway Restaurants'),
the fourth city of Tennessee, with 30,154 inhab., lies on the left
bank of the Tennessee, in the centre of a district rich in iron, coal,
and timber. Its progress of late has been very rapid, and its manu-
factures (value in 1907, $ 30,000,000) and trade are of considerable
importance. The river is navigable to this point during the greater
part of the year, and railways diverge in all directions. A good
view of the town may be had from the Times Building. The finest
residences are in Oak Street. The Jewish Synagogue and the Federal
Building are noteworthy. The large University of Chattanooga (Me-
thodist) is attended by 725 students (incl. those at Athens, see p. 577).
Gen. Grant's headquarters in 1863 (1st St., near Walnut St.) are de-
noted by a bronze tablet, and various other points of interest are
also marked. In the TJnion Station is the locomotive 'General', used
by the Andrews Raiders in 1862 (tablet).
Chattanooga was a point of great strategic importance during the
Civil War, and several battles were fought in the neighbourhood (comp.
p. xli). The best general idea of the military operations is obtained from
"^Lookout Mt. (2125 ft.), which rises to the S. of the city and commands
a superb *View, extending into seven states. The top may be reached by
carriage-road, or by an inclined plane with cable - railway, connecting
with the electric tramway from the town, and ending near the Lookout Inn
($3-5; burned down in 19G8). A tramway (*Views) runs from the head
of the inclined plane along the crest of the mountain, skirting the
point where the 'Battle above the Clouds' (p. xli) tnok place on Nov. 24th,
1863, to Lula Lake^ Sunset Rock, and (3 M.) Natural Bridge. To the E. rises
Missionary Ridge (also ascended by an electric tramway), which gave name
to the battle of Kov. 25th, 1863. Another tramway (return- fare 25 c.) runs
from the town across the ridge to the battlefield of Chickamauga fSept.
i9th-2ist, 1863), perhaps the bloodiest battle of modern days (33,000 men
killed or wounded out of 121,000 engased). About 15 sq. M. of ground, in-
cluding most of the three ju?t-named battlefields, have recently been laid
out as a National Park (Park Hotel, near Crawfish Springs, 3 2; carriages
in waiting at the tramway terminus for drives over the battlefield). The
Park may also be reached by the C R. <fe S. R. E. from the Central Depot.
Numerous memorial monuments have been erected, and the positions of
the battle-lines and batteries have been marked, in many instances with
the guns actually used in the battles. The Park contains 100 M of drives.
The battlefields can be well studied from the steel Observation Towers (70 ft.),
erected on them. Those whose time is limited may drive to the National
Cemetery, go on thence to Missionary Ridge, follow the Crest Road tbrough
the Park, and return via Roseville "(20 M. in all). Other battlefields lie
a little farther to the E. The pretty Zulu Falls are easily reached from
Lookout Inn. — The National Soldiers^ Cemetery, with 13,000 graves, lies
to the E. of the city.
to New Orleans. DECATUR. 91. Route. 579
Fbom Chattanooga to Bbcnswick, 429 M,, Southern Railway in 13-
141/2 hrs. At (27 M.) Cohutta this line joins the line from Cleveland
(see p. 578) and enters Gewgia. — 80 M. Home {Cherokee., $ 2-3), one of
the chief cities of N. Georgia, with 7291 inhab. and considerable manu-
factures, is the junction of lines to Anniston (p. 572), Attala (see below),
and other points. The railway now runs towards the S.E. and passes
near several battlefields. — 154 M. Atlanta, see p. 571. From (205 M.)
Flovilla a steam-tramway runs to Indian Springs (The Wigwam, $ 21/2). —
242 M. Macon, see p. 611. — 281 M. Cochran; 300 M. Eattman (De Leitch
Ho., $2), a winter-resort; 318 M. Helena. At (390 M.) Jesup we intersect
the Atlantic Coast Line from Savannah to the S. (see R. 103b) and at (410 M.)
Everett the Seaboard Air Line (R. 103c). — 429 M. Brunswick (Oglethorpe.,
from $3-, Brit, vice-consul, Mr. Rosendo Terras), a rising cotton-shipping
port and winter-resort, with 9081 inhab., is situated on the Brunswick River.,
near its embouchure in the Atlantic Ocean. The annual value of its exports
and imports is about $ 30,000,000. The 'Wanderer', the last slave-ship to
cross the ocean, landed her 500 slaves at Brunswick. Near by is the historic
St. Simori's Island (Ocean View, $2), with the ruins of Fort Frederica,
built by Oglethorpe, founder of Georgia, who defeated the Spaniards at
this point in 1742. Steamer from Brunswick to Savannah and Florida,
see p. 611.
From Chattanooga to Memphis, 310 M., Southern Railway in 10-llV2hrs.
— The line enters Alabama, crosses the Tennessee at (30 M.) Bridgeport,
and runs towards the W. 38 M. Stevenson is the junction of a line to
Nashville (see below). 97 M. Huntsville (610 ft. ; Huntsville Hotel. $ 2, open
in winter only; Monte Sano, a summer-hotel on a spur of the Cumber-
land Mis., 1700 ft. above the sea, $2-4), with 15,000 inhab., was formerly
the capital of the state. — We recross the Tennessee to (122 M.) Decatur
(575 ft. 5 Bismarck, American Hotel, $ 2), a little iron - making city with
various manufactures. Including the adjacent New Decatur City (New
Decatur Hotel, $ 2) it has (1900) 7551 inhabitants. — 185 M. Tuscumbia,
with the adjacent Sheffield and Florence (across the Tennessee), has an
industrial population of 12,160. Before reaching (196 M.) luka (555 ft.) we
leave the Tennessee and enter Mississippi (p. 574). — 217 M. Corinth was a
place of some strategic importance in the War and was occupied by Gen.
Beauregard after the two days' fight at Shiloh (10-12 M. to the N. ; April
6-7th, 1862), in which Gen. Johnston lost his life and the Confederates
were defeated by Grant and Baell. Afterwards Corinth was occupied by
the Unionists under Rosecrans, who repelled a desperate attempt to take it
(Oct. 3rd-4th, 1862). — 258 M. Grand Junction. — 310 M. Memphis, see p. 586.
Fbom Chattanooga to Nashville, 151 M., Nashville, Chattanooga, &
St. Louis Railway in 5-6 hrs. (fare $4.50; sleeper $1.50). — This line
diverges to the right from the Southern Railway at (38 M.) Stevenson (see
above) and runs to the N.W. through a picturesque district. 64 M Cowan
is the junction of a branch-line to (14 M.) Monteagle (scene of a large Sunday
School Assembly), Tracy City (20 M.), and (27 M.) Coalmont; 69 M. Decherd of
others to (86 M.) Columbia and (122 M.) Gadsden ; h2 M. Tullahoma of another
to (74 M.) Ravenscroft; and (96 M.) Warirace of yet another to (8 M.) Shelby ville
(Dixie, $2; 2236 inhab). — 119 M. Murfreesboro (.Tordan, $ 2-3; 4000 inhab.)
was the scene of a costly Federal victory in the Civil War (1730 killed, 11,500
wounded; Confederate loss, about 11,000). — 151 M. Nashville, see p. 585.
From Chattanooga to Lexington and Cincinnati, see R. 92a.
Beyond Chattanooga the New Orleans train runs to the S.W.
across Alabama on the tracks of the Queen <$^ Crescent Haute (see
p. 575). This traverses the scene of the Indian Wars of 1811 and
snbseqnent years. Many names and other features bear witness to
the early French settlers (1805). 671 M. Fort Payne (875 ft.); 707 M.
Attalla (530 ft.), the junction of lines to Decatur and Rome
(see above).
580 Route 91. RALEIGH. From Washington
763 M. Birmingham (605 ft. ; New Morris, Eillman, Florence,
R. from $ 1^2' Metropolitan, R. from $ lV2)j a ^^sy manufacturing
city in Jones Valley, founded in 1871 and containing 38,415 in-
hab. in 1900 (and very much larger with its suburbs), owes its rapid
growth, phenomenal among southern cities, to the vicinity (3 M.)
of Bed Mountain, which contains inexhaustible stores of hematite
iron ore in conjunction with abundant coal and limestone. Its
activity Is exhibited in large rolling mills, iron-furnaces, foun-
dries, machine shops, a large basic steel mill, etc. (total value of
products in 1900, $ 12,581,000). Railways (steam and electric)
radiate hence in all directions. — 774 M. Bessemer (515 ft.; Grand
Hotel, $2), founded in 1887, contained 6358 inhab. in 1900 and
is already an iron-making place of considerable importance. —
819 M. Tuscaloosa (225 ft.; Hotel McLester, from $2), a charac-
teristic old-time Southern town of the best type, at the head of
steamboat-navigation on the Black Warrior River, has 5094 inhab.
and is the site of the University of Alabama (470 students). Its
residence - streets contain many fine old Colonial houses and are
shaded with magnificent oaks. It carries on a large trade in agri-
cultural produce. — At (895 M.) Cuba we enter Mississippi. —
916 M. Meridian (330 ft.; Southern, $2V2-3; Grand Avenue, R.
$ 1), an industrial city with 14,050 inhab., is the junction of lines
to Vicksburg (p. 587), Corinth (p. 579), and Mobile (p. 573). — We
reach Louisiana (p. 575) at (1068 M.) Nicholson. In entering New
Orleans we cross Lake Pontchartrain (p. 636) by a trestle-bridge
about 7 M. long.
1112 M. New Orleans, see p. 631.
c. Vi& Seaboard Air Line and Atlanta.
1191 M. Railwat in 36-38 hrs. (fares as at p. 575). Richmond, Fbedericks-
BUBG, AND PoTOJiAG E. R. from Washington to (116 M.) Richmond; Sea-
board AiE Line from Richmond to (695 M.) Atlanta; Atlanta & West Point
R. R. from Atlanta to (870 M.) Montgomery; Louisville & Nashville
R. R. from Montgomery to (1191 M.) New Orleans.
From Washington to (116 M.) Richmond, see R. 88; from Rich-
mond to (139 M.) Petersburg, see p. 564. The line continues to run
towards the S. 153 M. Dinwiddie; 163 M. McKenney; 180 M. Cochran;
195 M. La Crosse; 202 M. Bracey. We now enter North Carolina.
214 M. Norlina, a new and growing settlement, is the junction
of the Seabord Air Line branch to Portsmouth and Norfolk (p. 562).
Our route runs towards the S.W. 217 M. Ridgeway ; 229 M.
Henderson (3746 inhab.), the junction of a line to Durham (p. 570);
246 M. Frankiinton : 256 M. Wake Forest, with a large college.
272 M. Raleigh (315 ft.; Yarborough House, $2V2-5; Park,
$2), the capital of North Carolina, with 13.643 inhab., lies on high
ground near the centre of the state. The State House stands in
Union Square, in the centre of the city. Among other large build-
ings are St. Mary's College (pleasant grounds), the Peace Institute,
to New Orleans. ATHENS. 91. Route. 581
the Baptist University (these three for girls), the Agricultural ^
Mechanical College (600 students), Shaw University (5*25 coloured
students), the State Insane Asylum^ the State Geological Museum^
and the Post Office. A drive may be taken to the Old^ Confederate^
and Federal Cemeteries (views).
From Ealeigh to Durham and Greensboro, to Goldsboro, and to Norfolk,
see p. 570.
Beyond Raleigh our line continues towards the S.W. 303 M.
Moncure is the junction of a short line to Pittsboro. — At (315 M.)
Sanford we connect with the Atlantic Coast and Southern railways.
From (328 M.) Cameron a short branch diverges to (10 M.)
Carthage. — 341 M. Southern Pines (600 ft.; Piney Woods Inn,
$3-5; Southern Pines Ho., $2-4), a winter-resort, in the heart of
the long-leaved pine belt of N. Carolina (average winter-temperature
44° Fahr.). — 345 M. Aberdeen.
From Aberdeen a branch-line runs towards the W., through peach-
orchards, to (6 M.) Pinehurst {"Carolina, frum$4; Berkshire, from $21/2;
Holly Inn , $ 3 i Harvard , $ 2^/2, open all the year round), a charming
winter-res -rt among the pines, with a casino, a deer-park, three golf-
courses, and other attractions. The most important winter golf tour-
naments in the country are held on the Pinehurst links. Shooting and
tennis m^itches of some interest also occur. Few winter-resorts offer better
athletic attractions.
370 M. Hamlet (Rail. Restaurant) is the point where the New
Orleans line diverges from the Seaboard route to Florida (R. 103 b).
At (395 M.) Wadesboro we intersect the Atlantic Coast Line. 423 M.
Monroe is the junction of a line to (104 M.) Rutherfordton. Near
(435 M.) Waxhaw we enter South Carolina (p. 571). At (447 M.)
Catawba we intersect the Ohio River and Charleston Railway; at
(467 M.) Chester we cross the Southern Railway from Charlotte to
Columbia; and at (484 M.) Carlisle we cross the same railway's
branch between Columbia and Spartanburg (p. 571). 513 M. Clinton
is another point of connef*tion with the Southern Railway System ;
541 M. Greenwood and (556 M.) Abbeville connect both with the
Southern Railway and with the Central of Georgia R.R. At (571 M.)
Calhoun Falls we cross the Savannah and enter Georgia (p. 571).
588 M. Elberton. — 622 M. Athens (866 ft. ; Commercial, Windsor,
$21/2)5 a, small and picturesque town with 10,245 inhab., retains
many characteristics of the Old South. It lies on the Oconee River,
and is the educational centre of Georgia. It is the seat of the Uni-
versity of Georgia (2500 students), and among its other educational
establishments may be mentioned the Lucy Cobb Institute for Girls
and the Georgia Normal College. It is the junction of lines to Macon,
Lula (p. 571), and various other points. — 660 M. Lawrenceville ;
677 M. Tucker.
695 M. Atlanta, and thence to —
1191 M. New Orleans, see pp. 571-575.
582
92. From Cinciniiati to New Orleans.
a. Vi§, Chattanooga C-Queen ^ Crescent Route').
830 M. Railway in 24-25 hrs. (fare S 21; aleeper $5). Cincinnati, New
Okleans, & Texas Pacific Railway to (338 M.) Chattanooga; Alabama Gkeat
SoDTHEKN R. R. thence to (634 M.) Meridian; New Obleans & Nokth Eastebn
R. R. thence to (830 M.) Mw Orleans. This line traverses the famous Blue
Grass Region of Kentucky. — The distances on the mile-posts are calculated
from Ludlow (see below).
Cincinnati., see p. 405. Tlie train crosses tlie Ohio to (3 M.)
Ludlow (to the right, the pleasure-grounds known as the Lagoon.,
p. 406) and runs through Kentucky (p. 567). The country traversed
is pleasant, but few of the stations are important. 21 M. Walton
(905 ft.); 52 M. Hinton (948 ft.); 70 M. Georgetown (870 ft.).
82 M. Lexington (965 ft. ; Phoenix, $ 3-4, R. from $ 1 ; Leland,
$2-8, R. from 75 c), a thriving little town with 26,369 inhah., is
the metropolis of the famous Blue Grass Country (see helow) and
one of the chief horse and cattle markets in the United States. It
received its name from having been founded in the year of the
battle of Lexington (p. 308). It is the site of the University of Ken-
tucky (1110 students, including the commercial college) and the
State Agricultural ^ Mechanical College (600 students), and has
large distilleries of 'Bourbon' whiskey. Henry Clay (p. 555) is com-
memorated by a monument. The trotting-races held here are largely
frequented; the famous track of the Kentucky Horse Breeders'
Association (p. xciii) is opposite the railway-station.
From Cincinnati to Lexington by the Louisville & Nashville R. i?., see
R. 92b. — From Lexington to Washington, see R. 90; to Louisville, see
pp. 567, 569.
The Blue Grass Region, which occupies about 10,000 sq. M. in N.
Kentucky, is an undulating and fertile plateau surrounded by hills. The
soil is very rich, and agriculture, especially the raising of tobacco and
hemp, is carried on with great success. Its characteristic feature, however,
consists of the celebrated pastures of 'Blue Grass' (Poa pratensis), which
support the horses and other livestock for which Kentucky is famous. Stock
farms abound throughout the whole district, especially in the neighbourhood
of Lexington. The American trotting horse was here brought to its present
high state of excellence, the blood horses of Kentucky exhibiting a remark-
able combination of speed and endurance. Among the most famous stock
farms near Lexington is Ashland (IV2 M.), formerly the home of Henry
Clay and now the property of his granddaughter, Mrs. H. C. McDowell.
'Mambrino Chief and 'Dictator', two of the most famous sires of the American
stud-book, were Ashland horses. Woodburn., 15 M. from Lexington, was
the home of the famous thorough-bred 'Lexington' and the birthplace of
'Maud S.' who trotted a mile in 2 min. 8' 4 sec. 'Nancy Hanks', who
trotted a mile in 2.4, was bred by Mr. Hart Boswell at Poplar Bill, 7 M.
to the N. of Lexington. The home of Mr. J. B. Haggin, 4 M. from Lexington
is the handsomest residence in the State and cost $1(J0,0(X)5 it is surrounded
by 4000 acres constituting one of the largest and finest stock-farms in the
world. Paris, on the Ken. Central R. R., 19 M. to the N.E. of Lexington, is
another centre of racing stock. Castleton, with Mr. James R. Keene's
stud-farm, is 5 M. distant from Lexington.
At Berea (Daniel Boone Hotel, $ 2-3), 50 M. to the S. of Paris (see above)
on the same railway, is the Berea College, which is doing such admirable
work for the Kentucky mountain-folk (1150 students).
BEAVER GAP. 92. Route. 583
At (103 M.) High Bridge (765 ft.) the train crosses th.e Ken-
tucky River ty a fine * Bridge, 280 ft. high, with three spans of
375 ft. each (view). A cave in the cliff near the bridge is said
to have been occupied by Daniel Boone, the famons pioneer. —
II6Y2 M. Danville (955 ft.), with the Presbyterian Central Uni-
versity (700 students). 121 M. Junction City (985 ft.). At (138 M.)
King's Mountain (1170 ft.) we pass through a tunnel 1300 yds. long,
161 M. Somerset (870 ft.). At (168 M.) Burnside (770 ft.) we cross
the Cumberland River (view). The line here runs high up on the
cliffs. 181 M. Beaver Gap is the station for the (1 M.) Natural Bridge
of Kentucky, which is 30 ft. high and has a span of 60 ft. From
(182 M.) Cumberland Falls Station (1250 ft.) coaches run to (12 M.)
"Cumberland Falls, 60 ft. high. Beyond (197 M.) Pine Knot (1410 ft.)
we enter Tennessee (the 'Volunteer State'), where the line traverses
the picturesque district of the foot-hills of the Cumberland Mts.,
among which are numerous summer -resorts. Beyond (210 M.)
Oneida we reach the highest point on the line (1515 ft.). 224 M.
Rugby Road (1390 ft.) is the station for Rugby (8 M. to the W. ;
1400 ft.), founded in 1880 by Tom Hughes (author of 'Tom Brown's
School-Days') and partly colonized by Englishmen. 232 M. Sun-
bright (1350 ft.), on the Cumberland Plateau; 254 M. Oakdale
(800 ft. ; Babahatchie Inn), on the Emory River, along which the
train descends. — 258 M. Hamman (Cumberland, $2), an iron-
making place, is 15 M. from Alum Springs, a favourite resort amid
the Cumberland Mts. It is the junction of the Southern Railway
line to Knoxville and Asheville (comp. p. 577). — 283 M. Spring
City; 300 M. Dayton (700ft.). Between (329 M.) Hixon and (334 M.)
Boyce (680 ft.) we cross the Tennessee River. The battlefield of
Missionary Ridge (p. 578) is seen to the left.
338 M. Chattanooga (675 ft.), and thence to —
880 M. New Orleans, see pp. 578-580.
b. Vifi. Louisville and Nashville.
925 M. Louisville <fe Nashville Railroad in 25-30 lirs. (fare $ 21 ;
sleeper $5; free reclining chair cai').
Cincinnati, see p. 405. The train crosses the Ohio to (2 M.)
Newport (p. 408) and runs to the S.W, through Kentucky. At (21 M.)
Walton we cross the route above described. 83 M. Lagrange is the
junction of lines to (66 M.) Lexington (p. 582), etc. 98 M. Anchorage.
114 M. Louisville, see p. 569. The train now runs towards the
S. — From (136 M.) Bardstown Junction a line runs to (37 M.)
Springfield (Ky.), and from (143 M.) Lebanon Junction another runs
to Lebanon and Knoxville (p. 577). At (19 M.) Oethsemane, on the
latter line, is the only Trappist monastery in the United States. —
From (204 M.) Glasgow Junction a short line diverges to Mammoth
Cave (see p. 584).
584 Route 92. MAMMOTH CAVE, From ancinnati
Fbom Glasgow Junction to Mammoth Cave, 9 M., railway in 3/4-I hr.
(return-fare $2). At present there are three trains daily. By anti mobile-
stage the return-fare is $ 1. — At the end of the railway, on the Green
River, at a height of 900 ft. above the sea, stands the Mammoth Cave Hotel
($ 2), 300 yards from the cave. Guides, etc., are procured at the hotel.
About TOGO tourists visit the cave yearly. [Some of these come by steamer
up the Green River from Henderson, on the Ohio (ca. 10 M. to the S. of
Evansville, p. 417), landing at a wharf 1/2 M. from the mouth of the
Mammoth Gave.]
The "Mammoth Cave of Kentucky, familiar to svirveyors before 1800,
is the largest cave known, extending below the earth for 9-10 M., while
the various avenues have an estimated length of about 100 M. The car-
boniferous limestone of Kentucky, in which the cave occurs, occupies
an area of 80"0 sq. M., and Prof. Shaler estimates that there are at least
100,000 miles of open caverns beneath it. Mammoth Cave is really a con-
geries of many caves, the walls or floors of which have worn through
into each other. It exists in five distinct tiers or levels. The interior
contains numerous avenues, halls, domes, pits, lakes, rivers, and the
like, to which more or less appropriate names have been given. There
are comparatively few stalactites or stalagmites, but some of those found
here are of great size. Two regular routes t have been established, over
which guides conduct visitors at stated times, but those who wish to
make a more leisurely exploration can make special arrangements. The
Long or River Route (ca. 15 M. ; fee $2, both routes $ 3j includes (besides
parts of the Main Cave) Fat Man's Misery, Dead Sea, Lake Lethe, the
Styx, Echo River, and beyond this a region with singularly fine floral
crystals ( Oulopholites) ^ ending in an enormous pit known as the Mael-
strom; the return is made by the Corkscrew. The Short or Pits and
Domes Route (8 M.; $2) takes in the Rotunda, the Saltpetre Works (see
below), Audubon Avenue, Olive's Bower, Gothic Avenue, Giants Coffin,
Star Chamber, Bottomless Pit, Gorin's Dome, and Pensico Ave. The
pure air and even temperature (54° Fahr.) make these excursions less
fatiguing than they would be above ground. Visitors often accomplish
the Short Route on the evening of their arrival (7-11 p.m.) and the Long
Route on the following day (9 a.m. -6 p.m.). Luncheon is carried in
from the hotel. Special fees are charged for visits to the Chief City
(540 ft. long, 280 ft. wide, and 120 ft. high); to a new region opened up
in 1907, including Hovey's Cathedral Domes, five in number; and to a
series of ten domes (finest called the Violet Dome), discovered in 1908
beyond the part of the cave known as Ultima Thule. The fees include the
fireworks necessary to illuminate the domes and chasms. The 50 varieties
of animal life fiun'd in the cave include eyeless fish (Amhlyopsis spelaeus)
and blind craw-fish (Gamharus pelucidus). It contains large deposits of
nitrous earth, from which saltpetre was made in 1811-15. A good account
of the Mammoth Cave, by H. C. Hovey and R. E. Call (50 c), and a map
(1907 i 25 c), by Hovey, are sold at the hotel. Use of cave suit 15 c. —
A dsit may also be paid to the * Colossal Cave, White Cave (S 1), and Dixon^s
Cave, with fine stalactites, which have not (like those in the Mammoth
Cave) been blackened by smoke. The Colossal Cave ($ 2, including guide
and lights; map, by Dr. Hovey, free), discovered in 1895, is 11/2 M from
the Mammoth Cave and may be explored in 5 hrs. It contains immense
domes, chalybeate springs, and remarkable pools, and is rich in stalactites
and helictiies.
228 M. Bowling Green (Rail. Restaurant; 8226 inhab.). At
(232 M.) Memphis Junction the line forks, one "brauch running to
the S.W. (right) to Memphis (p. 586), while the other holds on
nearly due S. Near (254M.) Mitchellvillevfe enter Tennessee (p. 583).
289 M. Edgefield Junction^ for the line to St. Louis (p. 410).
t It is announced that in and after 1809 there will be four routes, so
as to include the most striking of the recent discoveries.
to New Orleans. NASHVILLE. 92. Route. 585
301 M. Nashville (550 ft. 5 Hermitage, new; Maxwell Ho., R.from
$1; Duncan, $3-5; Tulane, from $2; Utopia), the 'Rock City', the
capital of Tennessee, with (1900) 80,865 inhab. (now ca. 140,000),
occupies a somewhat hilly site on both banks of the Cumberland
River. It contains extensive manufactories of hard-wood wares,
large flour- mills, and various other industries (value of products
in 1906, $ 25,750,000), and it is, perhaps, the most important
educational centre in the South. The most prominent building in
the city is the State Capitol (with a tower 205 ft. high), conspicu-
ously situated on a hill. In its grounds are a bronze Equestrian
Statue of Andrew Jackson, by Clark Mills, and the Tomb of President
Polk (1795-1849), whose home (Polk Place) stood at the corner of
Vine and Union Sts. Among the other chief buildings are the Court
House, the Custom House, the Parthenon (used for exhibitions of
art, Greek plays by students, etc.), the Vendome and Bijou Theatres,
the Carnegie Library, the Board of Trade, the First National Bank,
and the Stahlman Building.
At the head of the educational institutions stands the large
Vanderbilt Univeksity, endowed by Cornelius Vanderbilt with
$ 1,000,000 and attended by 885 students. In the Campus is a
colossal statue of the founder, by Moretti. The Thurston Archseo-
logical Collection includes rare and excellent examples of pre-
historic American pottery, many of them found near Nashville. —
The academic department of the University of Nashville [iA60 students)
has been converted into fkePeabody Teachers' College (dAb students).
The Fisk University (550 students), the Roger Williams University (250
students), and the Walden Un'versity (925 students) are the leading seats of
learning for coloured persons. Other large schools are Boscohel College,
Belmont College^ the Saint Cecilia Academy, Radnor College, Buford Academy,
and Ward''s Seminary. The Watkins Institute contains a good library and
the interesting collections of the Tennessee His'orical Society. — In 1897 the
Tennessee Ci-niennial Exposition was held in the W. suburbs of Nashville;
and some of its handsome buildings have been left standing in Centennial Park.
Among the places of interest near Nashville are the Hermitage, the
home of Oen. Andrew Jackson (1767-1845), 11 M. to the E. (on the railway
to Lebanon, p. 583); Belle Meade, a famous stock-farm, 6 M. to the S.W.,
now owned by the heirs of the late Gen. W. H. Jackson (Iroquois, the
American winner of the Derby, was bred here) ; and the National Cemetery,
41/2 M. to the N., containing 16,700 graves. — In the Battle of Nashville,
fought on Dec. 15-l6th, 18tt4, Gen. Hood, at the head of a Confederate
army, was completely defeated by Gen. Thomas.
Lines radiate from Nashville to St. Louis (p. 410), Hickm,an (p. 430),
Memphis (p. 586), Chattanooga (p. 578), etc.
The line continues to run towards the S. 347 M. Columbia, on
the Duck River. At (394 M.) State Line we enter Alabama (p. 572).
At (422 M.) Decatur (p. 579) we cross the Tennessee. 455 M. Cull-
man; 508 M. Birmingham, see p. 580 ; 541 M. Calera.
604 M. Montgomery, and thence to (784 M.) Mobile and —
925 M. New Orleans, see pp. 573-576.
Baedeker's United States. 4th Edit. 37
586 Route 92. MEMPfflS. From Cincinnati
c. Vi§. Louisville and Memphis.
919 M. Railway in 26-27 lirs. (fare $21 ; sleeper $5). This route follows
the Baltimore & Ohio South-Western Railway to (130 M.) Louisville^ and the
Illinois Central Railroad thence to 'Sew Orleans.
Cincinnati (Central Union Station), see p. 405. — The train
runs at first towards the W. 5 M. Culloms. Beyond (15 M.) North
Bend we enter Indiana (p. 357). 20. M. Lawrenceburg ,• 26 M. Aurora;
52 M. Osgood; 59 M. Holton. — 72 M. North Vernon {^Commercial
Ho., $2), with 2823 inhab., is a junction of some importance. Our
line now bends to the S. — 85 M. Paris ; 97 M. Lexington; 118 M.
Watson; 126 M. New Albany (p. 417). We now cross the Ohio and
enter Kentucky (p. 567). — 130 M, Louisville, see p. 567.
Beyond Louisville the line runs at first towards the S. W. 177 M.
Cecilia; 202 M. Leitchfield. Beyond (248 M.) Bockportwe cross the
Green River. 257 M. Central City; 310 M. Princeton; 324 M. Kut-
tawa. A little farther on we cross the Cumberland and soon after
the Tennessee, which here (15-20 M. above their mouths in the Ohio)
approach within 3-4 M. of each other.
357 M. Padueah {Palmer Ho., $ 3), a city of 19,446 inhab.,
lies on the left bank of the Ohio, a little below the influx of the
Tennessee. It carries on a brisk trade in tobacco, grain, and pork.
— Our line now turns abruptly to the S. (left).
At (403 M.) Fulton {JJsona Hotel, $2-21/2) we reach the line from
Chicago to New Orleans described in R. 93. Some of the trains
from Cincinnati to New Orleans also foUow the route via Jackson
(comp. p. 588). We now enter Tennessee. — Beyond (427 M.)
Obion we cross the Obion River ; beyond (447 M.) Dyersburg the
two branches of the Forked Deer River; and beyond (477 M.) Hen-
ning the Big Hatchee. 486 M. Covington; 513 M. Woodstock.
523 M. Memphis (270 ft.; ""Gayoso, Peabody, R. from $ IV2;
Gaston, from $ 2, R. from $ 1 5 *Luehrman's, for men , R. from
$11/2; Cordova, $2-4; Clarendon, Fransioli, $2-21/2); the first
city of Tennessee and the most important on the Mississippi between
St. Louis and New Orleans, is strikingly situated on the Chickasaw
Bluffs, with a wide levee overlooking the river. It is one of the most
progressive cities in the S., and its population increased from 33,593
in 1880 to 102,320 in 1900 (now probably at least 150,000). It is of
great importance as a distributing point for cotton (8-900,000 bales),
lumber (500,000,000 ft.), groceries, shoes, hardware, and other
commodities. Several railways converge here (comp. pp. 579, 588)
and many lines of steamers ply up and down the Mississippi (comp.
p. 431). The railway-bridge (1892) is the only bridge across the
Mississippi to the S. of St. Louis.
The Cotton Exchange, the Merchants' Exchange, the Custom
House, the Office of the Appeal- Avalanche, the St. Agnes Academy,
the Tennessee Club, the Chickasaw Club, the Auditorium (7000 seats),
the Tennessee Trust Building, the Memphis Trust Building, the Porter
to New Orleam. VICKSBUEG. 92. Route. 587
Building, the Ooodwyn Institute, and tlie Cossett Free Library are
among tke most conspicuous buildings. Tlie Levee presents a busy
and animated picture , and interesting visits may be paid to the
various Cotton Compresses (in which bales of cotton are prepared for
transportation by being reduced by hydraulic pressure to one-fourth
their original size) and Cotton-seed Oil Mills. Court Square contains
a bust of Gen. Andrew Jackson and innumerable squirrels.
An electric tramway runs from Memphis to (5 M.) the National Cemetery,
with the graves of 14,000 Union soldiers, and (11 M.) Raleigh, a pleasant
resort. — Memphis also possesses two Race Courses. — Steamers ply via
the White River, St. Francis River, and Arkansas River to Fori Smith and
other points in Arkansas.
From Memphis to New Okleans via Vicksbckg, 455 M., Tazoo tk Mis-
sissippi Valley R. R. (III. Central System) in 14 hrs. (fare $11.85; sleeper
$ 2.50). This line forms an alternative route from Memphis to New Orleans.
The train starts at the Calhoun St. Station and soon after leaving Memphis
enters Mississippi (p. 574). 13 M. Lake View (lake to the right). Beyond
(45 M.) Clayton we pass Beaver Dam Lake and Beaver Dam Bayou. 56 M.
Lula, near Moon Lake — 63 M. Coahoma is the junction of a loop-line to
(77 M.) Lamont and (115 M.) Hampton, rejoining the main line at (126 M.)
Rolling Fork (see below). To the left lies §wan Lake. — 139 M. Leland.
We now follow the Deer River. — 176 M. Rolling Fork (see above) ; 209 M.
Redwood, on the Old River; 217 M. National Cemetery.
219 M. Vicksburg (CarroW, $2V2-4; Piazza, R. fr:)m $1), picturesquely
situated on the Mississippi, amid the Walnut Hills (500 ft.), is the largest
city in the state and a commereiaJ and industrial place of some importance.
Pop. (19U0) 14,834. The name of Vicksburg is well known from its promi-
nence in the Civil War, when, as the key of the Mississippi, it was strongly
fortified and garrisoned by the Confederates. After bafflinsi Farragut and
Sherman in 1862, it was finally captured by Grant in 1863 (July 4th), in
a campaign which cost him 9000 men fcomp. pp. xli, 195). The Nationa.
Cemetery above the city contains lH,600 graves (many good monuments)
Near (244 M.) Ingleside we cross the Big Black River, and near (249 M.)
Port Gibson the Pierre. — From (269 M.) Earriston a line runs to (28 M.)
Natchez {Natchez, $8-5; Pearl, $2), a city of 12,210 inhab., founded by
D''Iberville in 1700, and situated on and at "the foot of a bluff rising 200 ft.
above the river It takes its name from a now extinct tribe of Indians, who
were among: the noblest specimens of Eed Men in America. Some traces
of the old French fort are still visible. A National Cemetery adjoins the city.
Beyond Harriston we cross several small rivers. Near (326 M.) Whit-
taker we enter Louisiana (p. 575). — 366 M. Baton Kouge {Mayer Hotel,
from $ 21/2, R. from $ 1), the capital of Louisiana, is a quaint old place with
11,269 inhab., on a bluff above the Mississippi. It contains the Louisiana
State University (550 students) and other State institutions. — Beyond Baton
Rouge we skirt the Mississippi, with its low banks and levees, sugar-plan-
tations, and picturesque planters' houses. 444 M. Eenner.
455 M. New Orleans, see p. 631.
Trains also run from Memphis to New Orleans by the so-called 'Frisco
System', following the Birmingham line to (105 M.) Tupelo., running thence
to the S. over the Mobile & Ohio R. R. to (249 M.) Meridian (p. 580) and
thence by the New Orleans <fe North-Eastern E. R. to (445 M.) New Orleans
(p. 631).
After calling in Memphis at the Poplar St. and Calhoun St.
Stations, the through - train from Cincinnati to New Orleans runs
towards the S.E. 536 M. Horn Lake; 542 M. Nesbitt; 573 M. Sar-
dis; 603 M. Oakland. — At (623 M.) Grenada (p. 588) we join the
main line from Chicago. Hence to —
919 M. New Orleans, see pp. 588, 589.
37*
588
93. From Chicago and St. Louis to New Orleans.
Illinois Central R. R. from Chicago to (922 M.) New Orleans in 26 hrs.
(fare $23; through-sleeper $6); from St. Louis to (710 M.) iTew Orleans
in 20V2-24i|2 hrs. (fare $i8; sleeper $5).
The train from St. Louis runs via Belleville and PinckneyvilU and joins
the Chicago line (described below) at (S5 M.) Carbondale (see below).
From CMcago to (81 M.) Gilman, see R. 58a. Onr line continnes
to run towards the S. 102 M. Paxton; 112M. Rantoul (see p. 399). —
126 M. Champaign (Beardsley, $2-3: Rail. Restaurant), junction
of a line to Decatnr (p. 401), is, with the adjoining city of Urbana
(^Columbian, $2; joint pop. 15,000), the seat of the University of
Illinois (4600 students), one of the most enterprising and flourishing
of the State Universities of the West. — 136 M. Tolono ; 156 M.
Areola; 171 M. Mattoon; 198 M. Effingham; 2i^ M.. Edgewood ;
243 M. Odin; 251 M. Centralia (Rail. Restaurant), one of the chief
outlets of a rich fruit-growing country (6721 inhab.) ; 287 M. Du
Quoin., the junction of lines to El Dorado and St. Louis (p. 410). —
At (307 M.) Carbondale, a busy little industrial town (3318 inhab.).
we are joined by the line from St. Louis (see above). 327 M. Anna
adjoins Jonesboro, a busy market for fruit and cotton. From (355 M.)
Mounds a branch-line runs to (3 M.) Mounds City,
360 M. Cairo Junction, for the short branch-line to (31/2 M.)
Cairo (see below).
Cairo {Halliday., $ 2-5; Planters, R. from $ 1), a manufacturing city with
12,566 inha^>., lies on a low fat tongue of land at the conHuence of the
Mississippi and Ohio. In one of its squares is a heroic bronze figure of
'The Hewer', by G. G. Barnard. Cairo is said to be the 'Eden' of 'Martin
Chuzzlewif.
The train crosses the Ohio by a fine bridge and enters Kentucky
(p. 5671. 393 M. Clinton. At (407 M.) Fulton (p. 586) we are joined
by the line from Cincinnati and Louisville (R. 92 c) and enter Ten-
nessee (p. 583). The railway forks here, the right branch running to
Memphis, while the left runs via Jackson (Tenn.) to Grenada (see
below). The through-trains from Chicago, Cincinnati, and St. Louis
to New Orleans follow the former route.
Jackson (Capitol, R. from $ i; Southern, $2), with 14,511 inhab., is a con-
siderable cotton-market and carries on various industries. It lies 65 M to
the S. of Fulton, and beyond it the line goes on via (112 M.) Grand Junction
and (136 31.) Holly Spring's (Rail. Restaurant) to (211 M.) Grenada, where it
unites with the main line described in this route.
From Fulton our train runs towards the S.W. 424 M Moffatt;
456 m. Dyershurg ; 481 M. Henning; 510 M. Millington.
528 M. Memphis (Rail. Restaurant), see p. 586. We stop here
first at the Poplar St. and then at the Calhoun St. station. Two
routes run hence to New Orleans, one via Vicksburg (p. 587), the
other via Grenada. Our train follows the latter and runs towards
the S.E. — 550 M. Hernando; 577 M. Sardis; 606 M. Oakland. —
At (628 M.) Grenada, on the Yalobusha River, we rejoin the route we
IRON MT. 94. Route. 589
left at Fulton (see p. 587). 681 M. Durant; 716 M. Canton. —
739 M. Jackson {Edwards Ho., R. from $ 1), the small capital of
Mississippi (7816 inhab.), has a handsome State House and other
puhUc buildings. — 793 M. Brookhaven; 817 M. McComb City. —
Beyond (835 M.) Osyka we enter Louisiana. 869 M. Hammond.
In approaching New Orleans we cross the outlet of Lake Maurepas
(right) and skirt Lake Pontchartrain (left). 915 M. Pacific Junction.
922 M. New Orleans, see p. 631
94. From St. Louis to Texarkana.
490 M. St. Louis, Ikon Mountain, and Southeen Railway in 16-22 lirs.
(fare $14.80; sleeper $3.50). Tkrough-carriages run by tWs line to Arkansas
Hot Springi, Fort Worth, San Antonio, Laredo, Dallas, Houston, Galveston,
and El Paso (for Los Angeles and San Francisco via Texas Pacific Railway).
St. Louis^ see p. 410. The line runs to the S. along the W. bank
of the Mississippi as far as (27 M.) Riverside. It then leaves the river
and runs to the S.W. through the great mineral district of E. Mis-
souri. From (61 M.) Mineral Point (860 ft.) a branch-line runs to
(4 M.) Potosi, with several lead- mines. At (75 M.) Bismarck (1025 ft. ;
Rail. Restaurant) the railway forks, the left branch leading to Columbus
(Ky. ; p. 430), while the Texas line runs nearly due S. About 6 M.
farther on the famous Iron Mt. (1075 ft.) is seen to the left.
This is an irregular hill, consisting mainly of porphyry, intersected
by numerous mineral veins and capped with a deposit of specular iron
ore, 6-30 ft. thick and yielding nearly TO per cent of pure in in. The
amount of mineral already taken from this hill exceeds five million tons.
Pilot Knob (1015 ft.), seen on the same side, 6 M. farther on,
also contains a wonderful bed of iron ore, 12-30 ft. thick. 88 M.
Ironton (910 ft.) uses the fine magnetic ore of Shepherd Mt., which
is free from phosphorus and sulphur. The line now passes through
the charming Valley of Arcadia and then intersects the Ozark Mts.
(good views). 166 M. Poplar Bluff is the junction of a line to (71 M.)
Bird's Point, opposite Cairo (p. 588). Beyond (181 M.) Neelyville
(305 ft.), the junction of a line to (20 M.) Doniphan, we enter
Arkansas ('Bear State'; pron. 'Arkansaw'). At (199 M.) Knohel (270ft.)
the through-carriages to Memphis (p. 586) diverge to the left. 225 M.
Walnut Ridge (Rail. Restaurant). At (262 M.) Newport (230 ft.) we
cross the White River (p. 431).
Feom Newpobt to Joplin, 2S8 M., railway in 13 hrs. This line ascends
through the picturesque White River Valley. — 32 M. While River Junction,
for a branch to (10 M.) Cushman; 125 M. Cotter; 159 M. Bergman; li;l M.
Branson; 211 M. Galena; 2d M. Crane, junction of a branch to (34 M.)
Springfield. At (232 M.) Aurora we cross the Rock Island railway (Frisco
System). 271 M. Carthage. — 28S M. Joplin {Connor, from $ 21/2, R. from $ 1),
a mining city.
288 M. Bald Knob, the junction of a line to (91 M.) Memphis
(p. 586).
590 Route 94. ARKANSAS HOT SPRINGS.
346 M. Little Eock (260 ft. ; Marion, R. from $ 1 ; Capitoi, $21/2-4 ;
Oleason, R. from $ 1 ; Rail. Restaurant), tlie capital and largest city
of Arkansas, with (1900) 38,397 intal)., is well situated on the wide
Arkansas River and carries on a large trade in cotton and other goods
both by raUway and steamer. It is regularly laid out, and many of
its streets are pleasantly shaded by magnolias. The principal buildings
include the State House, the U. S. Court Home, the County Court
House, the State Insane Asylum, the Deaf-Mute Institute, the School
for the Blind, the Post Office, the Board of Trade Building, Little
Rock University, and the Medical Department of Arkansas Industrial
University. Railways radiate hence in aU directions.
369 M. Benton (^Van Noy, $2-21/4) is the junction of a branch-
line to (25 M.) the famous Arkansas Hot Springs.
The town of Hot Springs, Arkansas (425 ft. ; * Arlington, from $ 4; East-
man, from §4; Park, from $3; Majestic, from $3; Wavei-ly, $2V2-3-,
Great Northern, R. from $ 2V2 ; Waukesha, Pullman, $ 2-3 ; Imperial, small,
well spoken of, §2), witli (1900) 9978 inhab., is situated in a narrow gorge
between Hot Springs Mt. and West Mt., in a spur of the Ozark Mts., and has
become one of the most frequented health and pleasure resorts in America.
The wide main street is flanked on one side with hotels and shops and on
the other with a row of handsome bath-houses. The Springs, of which
there are about 50, rise on the W. slope of Hot Springs Mt. , above the
town, vary in temperature from 76° to 158° Fahr., and discharge daily
ca. 1,000,000 gallons of clear, tasteless, and odourless water. They are
used both internally and externally, and are beneficial in rheumatism, gout,
neuralgia, and affections of the skin and urinary organs. They contain a
little silica and carbonate of lime; but the efficacy of the water is ascribed
mainlv to its heat, purity, and radio-activity. The price for a single bath
is 20-50 c. , for 21 baths $ 3-10. The ground on which the springs rise is
the property of the U. S. Government, and a large Army and Navy Hospital
has been erected here for the use of officers, soldiers, and sailors. Among
the numerous pleasant points for walks, rides, and drives in the vicinity
of the Hot Springs arc the Valley of the Oukhita, the Ostrich Farm, Gulpha
Gorge, HelVs Half Acre, Happy Hollow, Ball Bayou, Crystal Mt., and Whit-
tington''s Peak. Other amusements include golf, horse-racing, shooting, and
fishing. There are several other mineral springs within easy reach, the
chief of which are Potash Sulphur Springs, Ozark Lithia Springs, and
Mountain Valley Springs, each with a hotel.
388 M. Malvern (260 ft.; Commer.nal, $2), the junction of an-
other line to (25 M.) Arkansas Hot Springs (see above); 410 M.
Daleville; 426 M. Gurdon, the junction of lines to Arkansas City
(p. 431) and Fort Smith; 458 M. Hope (360 ft), the junction of a
line to (25 M.) Nashville.
490 M. Texarkana (300 ft. ; Cosmopolitan, R. $ 1 ; Huckins, $ 2),
a town with 4914 inhab., on the border of Texas and Arkansas, is an
important railway -junction, from which connection can easily be
made for all important points in Texas, via the Texas and Pacific
and other railways (comp. p. 596).
591
95. From El Paso to New Orleans.
1196 M. SoDTHEEN Pacific Railway ('Siinset Route') in 46-48 hvs. (fare
$ 33.15; sleeper $7, tourist-car $3.50). For througli- service from San Fran-
cisco, see p. 549.
El Paso (3710 ft; Angelus, from $21/9, R. from $1; Sheldon,
$3-5, R. $1V2-2V2; Orndorff, $21/2-31/2; Pierson, R. from$l;
Bail. Restaurant)., a city of 15,906 inhab., with silver-smelting works,
cattle-yards, iron-fonndries, and railroad-shops, is sitnated on the
left bank of the Rio Grande. It is the chief gateway of the trade
between the United States and Mexico, and 'the Pass' to everywhere,
being the S. terminus of the A. T. & S. F. line (R. 75 b), the W. ter-
minus of the Texas & Paciiic Railway (R. 110), the N. terminus of
the Mexican Central Railway (R. 113), the E. terminus of the El
Paso & South -Western Railway, and a junction of the Rock Island
system. Just across the river is the Mexican town of Ciudad Juarez
or El Paso del Norte (see p. 645), connected with El Paso by an 'inter-
national' tramway. — Railway time changes here from the 'Pacific'
to the 'Central' standard (2 hrs. faster); local time accords with the
'Mountain' standard (comp. p. xiv).
From El Paso to Kansas City, by the Rock Island Route, see R. 76 b.
The line rises and falls, as it follows the general course of the
Rio Grande, here forming the boundary between Texas and Mexico.
Antelopes are occasionally seen from the train and prairie-dogs fre-
quently. 12 M. Ysleta (3650 ft.); 53 M. Fort Hancock (3515 ft);
92 M. Sierra Blanca (4510 ft.), a junction with the Texas Pacific
Railway (p. 638); 160 M. Valentine (4420 ft.); 196 M. Marfa
(4690 ft.), the main depot for Fort Davis, a little to the N., the
centre of a district for large game, including bears, panthers, and
mountain-lions. — At (210 M.) Paisano (5080 ft.) we reach the
highest point on the Southern Pacific Railway between San Francisco
and New Orleans (1155 ft. higher than the Tehachapi Pass, p. 530).
Fine mountain - scenery in the distance. — 270 M. Haymond
(3880 ft.); 315 M. Sanderson (2775 ft.; Rail. Restaurant); 388 M.
Langtry (1315 ft.), a military post. The Rio Grande is again in sight.
Beyond (400 M.) Shumla (1410 ft) we cross the Pecos River by a fine
cantilever bridge, 2184 ft. long and 321 ft. high (one of the highest
railway - bridges in the world). To the S., between the Pecos and
Devil's River, in a canyon of the Rio Grande, lies the Painted Cave,
a large cavern with some undeciphered Indian hieroglyphics. As we
approach (438 M.) BeviVs River (965 ft.) we see, to the left, the
singular Palisades, in the Castle Rock Canyon. Beyond (453 M.)
Bel Rio (950 ft.; Del Rio Hotel, $ 2), we leave the Rio Grande and
traverse a cattle-raising district. — From (489 M.) Spofford Junction
(1015 ft.) a line runs to (35 M.) Eagle Pass, the starting-point of the
Mexican International Railway route to Mexico (see p. 644). 529 M.
Uvalde (935 ft); 582 M. Dunlay (1000 ft).
592 Route 95. SAN ANTONIO. From El Paso
623 M. San Antonio. — Hotel Men&eb, from $ 3, well spoken of;
SouTHEEN, $ 2V2-4; Bexae, $2-4, simple; St. James; New Mavebick, E.
from $ 1 ; Mahncke, from $ 2 ; Hot Sdlphub Wells Hotel, near the town,
open in winter only, $3-5. — Good restaurant at tlie Bexar Hotel; Torreon's
Restaurant; Rail. Restaurant.
San Antonio (675 ft.), the cMef city of Texas and the 'cradle of
Texas liberty', is a well-bnilt city, of a distinctly Spanish cast,
situated on the San Antonio River, which, with its small affluent
the San Pedro , divides the city into three parts, and by its wind-
ings gives occasion for innumerable bridges and culverts within the
city limits. San Antonio is an important wool, cotton, horse, mule,
and cattle market, and is the centre of numerous railways (see
pp. 593, 594). It is also the seat of a United States military post
p. 593). Its population of (1900) 53,321, the largest of any city in the
state, consists in nearly equal proportions of Americans, Mexicans,
and Germans, with a few Coloured people. San Antonio is one of the
most interesting cities in the country and will repay a day's halt. It
is probably unique in the United States as a town where gambling-
dens are still maintained openly, conducted in an honest and orderly
manner, and where genuine Mexican cock-fighting is a Sunday after-
noon diversion. San Antonio is frequented as a winter-resort by
persons of weak lungs (mean temp., winter 52^, summer 82°).
San Antonio de Bexar was settled by tlie Spaniards abont 1690-1700,
and, like most of their settlement'', combined the character of a presidio^
or military post, with that of a mission (San Antowo de Valero). The most
outstanding event in its history is the 'Fall of the Alamo' in 1836. Texas had
determined to resist certain obnoxious laws imposed by Mexico, and the latter
sent an army under Santa Ana to reduce the rebels. The advance-guard of
4000 men reached San Antonio on Feb. 22nd and found the fortified Church
of the Alamo (see below) garrisoned by a body of 145 Americans (after-
wards joined by 25 or 30 more), under Travis, Bowie, and Davy Crockett,
who refused to surrender. After a siege of 12 days, the church was Pnally
carried by assault (March 6th) and all the survivors of the gallant little band
of defenders were put to the sword. 'Remember the Alamo' became a
burning watchword in subsequent struggles. See 'San Antonio de Bexar\ a
handsomely illustrated volume by Wm. Corner, including a sketch by Sydney
Lanier (price $1.25), 'Remember the Alamo', a novel by ifrs. 5arr, and the
'Historical Sketch of the Alamo', by Leonora Bennett, sold in the building.
The first object of interest for most visitors to San Antonio is the-
*Chuhch of the Mission del Alamo, situated in the Alamo Plaza,
in the quarter to the E. of the San Antonio River. The church, which
seems to have derived its name from being built in a grove of alamo
or Cottonwood trees (a kind of poplar; Populus monilifera), is alow
and strong structure of adobe, with very thick walls. It was built in
1744, but has lost many of its original features. It is now preserved
as a national monument (visitors admitted free). — At the N. end
of the Alamo Plaza, in Houston Street, is the handsome Federal Build-
ing. On the W. side of the plaza is the building containing the San
Antonio Club and the Grand Opera House.
Following Houston St. towards the left (W.), we cross the San
Antonio and xe^GhSoledad Street, which leads to the left to the Main
to New Orleans. SAN ANTONIO. 95. Boute. 593
Plaza (Plaza de Las Tslas)^ pleasantly laid out with gardens. On its
S. side rises tlie imposing Court House and on its "W. side stands
the Cathedeal of San Fernando, dating in its present form mainly
from 1868-73, but incorporating parts of the earlier building, where
Santa Ana had his headquarters in 1836. — To the W. of the Cath-
edral is the Military Plaza (Plaza de Armas), with the City Hall.
The Military Post (Fort Sam Houston), on Government Hill,
1 M. to the N. of the city, is one of the largest in the United States
and deserves a visit. The tower (88 ft. high) in the centre of the
quadrangle commands a splendid *View of the city and its environs.
No stranger in San Antonio should neglect to visit some of the other
old Spanish Missions near the city. Those most often visited are the First
and Second Missions (see below), but, if time allows, the Third and Fourth
Missions should be included. They can all be seen by a drive of 5 or 6 hrs.
The Mission of the Conception, or First Mission, lies about 2V4 M. to
the S. of the city (reached via Garden St.), dates from 1731-52, and is wele
preserved. The church has two W. towers and a central dome. The
sculptures on the W. door should be noticed. — The ^Mission San Josl
de Aguayo, or Second Mission, 4 M. to the S of the city, dates from 1720-3e
and is the most beautiful of all. Among the points to be noted are the
W. facade of the church and the doorway, window, and capitals of the
small chapel or baptistry. To the W. of the church is the Mission Granary,
with its arched stone roof and fying buttresses (now used as a dwelling).
The line of the rampart of the Mission Square is now obscured by adobe
huts erected on its ruins. — The Mission San Juan de Capistrano, or Third
Mission, 6 M. to the S. of San Antonio, dates from 1731. The line of its
square is well defined, and its ruined church, chapel, and granary are inter-
esting. About 1/2 M. distant is a solid old Aqueduct, taking water to the
Fourth Mission. — The Mission San Francisco de la Espada, or Fourth
Mission, on the W. bank of the San Antonio River, 9 M. to the S. of the
city, also dates from 1731. At the S.E. corner of the Mission Square is a
well-preserved Baluarte or bastion. The Church has been restored and is
regularly used for service by the Indians here.
About 3 M. to the S. of San Antonio are the International Fair Grounds
and Buildings, reached either by the Aransas Pass Railway or by electric
tramway. Adjacent is Riverside Park, with fine groves of pecan trees ( Gary a
olivaeformis). San Pedro Park, 1 M. to the N. of the city, contains fresh
springs and a zoological collection. Brackenridge Park contains buflfalo,
deer, elk, and antelopes.
Fkom San Antonio to Rockpoet, 160 M., San Antonio d: Aransas Pass
Railway in 7 hrs. (fare $ 4.80, to Corpus Christi $ 4. 50). The line runs
towards the S.E. 61 M. Kenedy is the junction of a line to (178 M.)
Houston (p. 594). — 138 M. Gregory is the junction of a line, crossing
Corpus Christi Bay, to (11 M.) Corpus Christi (Alia Vista, from $ 2; Seaside,
$ 2), a city of 4703 inhab., frequented as a summer-resort. It has a con-
siderable shipping-trade and is connected by the Texas & Mexican Railway
with Laredo (p. 594). Corpus Christi is the site of the Epworth League
Encampment, a huse annual gathering of Methodists. The King or Santa
Gertrudis Ranch. 45 M. to the S. of Corpus Christi, covers 1,000,000 acres
(1560 sq. M.) and is stocked with !'0,000 cattle and 3000 brood-mares. —
160 M. Rockport {Bay side Ho., The Del Mar, S 2; The Shell, 2 M. from the
town, $ 2V2-3), a place of 1153 inhab., situated on Aransas Bay, is a
favourite resort for bathing and for its fine tarpon (p. 611) and other fishing.
Rockport has a good harbour, entered by Amtisas Pass, which has been
improved by the construction of stone jetties. The country round Aransas
Pass and Corpus Christi produces large quantities of fruit.
From San Antonio to Austin, 79 M., International and Great Northern
R. R. in 2V2-3hrs. — 31 M. New Braunfels (The Plaza, from $2; Lenzen,
594 Route 95. HOUSTON. From El Paso
$1-2; Comal, $2), a German town founded by the 'Deutscher Adelsverein'
in 1844; 49 M. San Marcos. — 79 M. Austin (Driskill, R. $ 1-2V2; Avenue,
$ 2-21/2 ; Hancock, $ 2-2V2), the capital of Texas, a pleasant little city with
22,258 inhab., lies on the Colorado River, in full view of the Colorado Mts.
Its handsome red granite ''Capitol, finely situated on high ground, was built
by Chicago capitalists in 1881-88, at a cost of 3^/2 million dollars, in ex-
change for a grant of 3 million acres of land. It is the largest capitol in
America, after that at Washington, and is said to be the seventh-largest
building in the world. Other prominent buildings are the State University
(2290 students), the Land Office, the Court House, and various Asylums.
The Monument to the Terry Rangers is by Pompeo Coppini. About 2 M.
above the city is the Austin Sam, a huge mass of granite masonry, 1200 ft.
long, 60-70 ft. high, and 18-66 ft. thick, constructed across the Colorado River
for water-power and water-works. Lake McDonald, formed by the dam,
is 25 M. long.
From San Antonio to Lakedo, 158 M., International and Oreat Northern
R. R. in 61/3 hrs. The intermediate stations are unimportant. — Laredo
{Hamilton, S 2-2V2 ; Ross, $ 2-2V2), a busy commercial city with 13,429 in-
hab., lies on the left bank of the Rio Bravo del Norte, or Rio Grande. —
Mexican National Railroad hence to the City of Mexico, see R. 111.
Beyond San Antonio the New Orleans line passes a number of
stations of no great importance. 687 M. Harwood (450 ft.); 747 M.
Columbus (210 ft.); 795 M. Rosenberg (105 ft.).
832 M. Houston (55 ft. ; Rice Ho., R. from $ II/2 ; Brazos, R. from
$ 1 ; Bristol, $ 2-21/2, R. from $ 1 ; Macatee, R. from $ 1 ; Tremont, $ 2),
locally pronounced 'Hewston', the second city of Texas in population
in 1900 (44,633), lies on the narrow but navigable Buffalo Bayou,
50 M. above G-alveston. It is a characteristic specimen of a 'hustling',
go-ahead, 'Western' city and carries on a large trade in cotton, sugar,
timber, and cotton-seed oil. Its manufactories employ about 5000
workmen and in 1900 produced goods to the value of $ 10,640,000.
Among the chief buildings are the Market c?" City Hall, the Cotton
Exchange, the Court House, the Post Office, and the Masonic Exchange.
A visit to one of its large Cotton Presses is interesting. Houston is
the E. centre for the workshops of the Southern Pacific Railway.
Among the numerous railways radiatins: from Houston maybe mentioned
the St. Louis. Brownsville- <& Mexico R'dlicay, running via (27 M.) Algoa (con-
necting with a short line to Galveston, see below), Robstown (229 M. ; junction
of a short branch-line to Corpus Christi, p. 593), and (252 M.) Kingsville
to (370 M.) Brownsville (Miller. $ 2).
Fkom Houston to Galveston, Galveston, Houston, ^' Henderson
R. R. (50 M.) in lly'2 hr., or Galveston, Houston, (.f Northern Railway
(57 M.) in 2 hrs. The chief intermediate stations on each line are
(6 M. or 7 M.) Harrisburg and (39 M. or 47 M.) Texas City Junction.
From (22 M.) Strang (O. H. & H. R. R.) a branch-line runs to (3 M.)
Sylvan Beach, a small watering-place. As we approach our destina-
tion we cross a trestle, more than 2 M. long, leading to Galveston
Island over the channel between the two wings of Galveston Bay.
57 M. Galveston (Tremont, $2i'2-4; Royal, Seaside, Palmetto,
R. from $ 1; Washington, $ 2; Brit. Consul, Mr. H. B. Nugent;
Ger. Consul, Mr. 0. Scheidt), the fourth city of Texas in population
to New Orleans. GALVESTON. 95. Route. 595
(37,789 In 1900) but the first In commercial importance, lies at the
N.E, extremity of the long and narrow Galveston Island, at the en-
trance to Oalveston Bay. It is a most interesting place, weU -^orth a
visit. In the hurricane of Sept. 8th, 1900, the city was almost entirely
destroyed by a tidal wave, causing the death, direct or indirect, of
6-8000 people. The loss of property was also immense, hut Galveston,
owing to the courage and rare civic spirit of its inhabitants and to
the enterprise of an unusually efficient city government (consisting
of a Commission of five members, headed by the Mayor), has rallied
bravely from the blow, is rapidly increasing in commercial import-
ance, and, with the opening of the Panama Canal, seems destined for
a great future. It claims to be the first cotton and grain shipping port
in the United States, and other important exports are wool, hides,
flour, fish, and fruit (annual value of exports nearly $200,000,000).
The Gulf Fisheries Co. maintains packing-houses and a fleet of boats
here, supplying fresh fish to Denver and all the West. Galveston has
a commodious harbour (protected by two forts), and about 50 regular
freight and passenger steamer-lines ply to New York, New Orleans,
Key West, Havana, Yera Cruz, Porto Rico, and various South Amer-
ican and European ports. Galveston Bay has a total area of about
450 sq. M. and is guarded at its entrance by a long bar, through which
the U. S. Government has constructed a deep water-channel flanked
by stone-jetties, 5M. long. An immense sea-wall has also been built
on the outer side of Galveston Island (on the inner side of which
the city chiefly lies), to prevent the recurrence of such a catastrophe
as that of 1900 (see above). This wall, made of crushed granite sand
and cement, is 3^2 M. long and 17 ft. high, 16 ft. wide at its base
and 5 ft. wide at the top, the outer wall being curved toward the sea,
and is built on a foundation of piles driven 44 ft. deep. The shore-
ward filling-in, sloping down to the level of the streets, is 200 ft. in
width, affording room for a spacious boulevard and driveway. There
is also a promenade along the top of the wall. The general level of
the city, formerly little above the level of the bay, has also been raised
some 10 ft., and Galveston Island is to be joined with the mainland
by a concrete causeway, 2 M. long. To assist the city in these under-
takings, the State remitted its taxes for 17 years. The streets are
wide and straight, bordered with palms and young trees, and the
residence - quarters abound in luxuriant gardens, shaded with ole-
anders, magnolias, etc. The parks and trees in the streets are in
charge of the Womenfs Health Protective Association. Among the
principal buildings are the Masonic Temple, with an Athletic Club,
the Custom Ho\ise ^ Post Office, the Cotton Exchange, the City Hall,
the Court House, the Ball Free School, the Rosenberg Free School,
the Free Public Library, the Y. M. C. A., the State Medical College,
with the Sealy Hospital, and the R. C. University and Hospital of
St. Mary. There is also a good monument to the Texan heroes of
1836 (see p. 592). Magnolia Orove Cemetery may be visited. — On
596 Route 95. MORGAN CITY.
the seaward side of the wall is a splendidly smooth and hard Beach,
30 M. long, affording excellent motoring, driving, and walking. Good
tarpon (p. 611), Spanish mackerel, and other fishing is obtainable.
The mean temperature of winter here is abont 62°, of summer 82°.
From Galveaton to Fori Worth and Mewton, see pp. 477, 476; to Tejcarkana
(for St. Louis, etc.), see p. 589; to Brownsville (and Corpus Christi), see p. 594.
Beyond Houston the New Orleans line continues to run towards the
E., traversing the great timber-producing part of Texas. At (822 M.)
Liberty (40 ft.) we cross the Trinity River. 916 M. Beaumont (30 ft. ;
New Crosby, $2-2V2; Hamilton, R. $1), with 9427 inhab., is one
of the centres of an extensive oil-belt. It is connected by an electric
line with Sour Lake (Sour Lake Hotel, $ 3), another oil-centre, the
population of which is said to have risen from 50 to 10,000 within a
few months. Beaumont is the junction of lines N. to Dallas (p. 637)
and S. to Sabine Pass (Brit, vice-consul), with a harbour improved
by the U. S. Government. At (944 M.) Sabine River we enter Louis-
iana (p. 575). — Near (967 M.) Sulphur are the sulphur-mines of
the Union Sulphur Co., which produce about 100 tons of sulphur per
day. The sulphur, which is extraordinarily pure, lies in a bed several
hundred feet below the surface, is melted by super-heated steam,
and is brought up through a pipe. — 977 M. Lake Charles; 1050 M.
Lafayette (50 ft.). The line now bends towards the S. The flatness
of the great stretches of plain next traversed contrasts strikingly
with the billow-like prairies farther to the N. The features of the
scenery are tree -lined 'bayous', magnolia- groves, live-oaks and
cypresses draped with Spanish moss (Tillandsia usneoides), and
plantations of sugar-cane, cotton, and tobacco. — 1115 M. Morgan
City fCostello, $21/2; 2332 inhab.) may be made the starting-point
of an interesting steamer -trip up the picturesque Bayou Teche,
penetrating the district to which the Acadians were removed (comp.
Longfellow's 'Evangeline'). It is connected with the Gulf of Mexico
by a navigable channel 30 M. long. — At (1195 M.) Algiers (p. 631)
we leave the train and cross the Mississippi by ferry.
1196 M. New Orleans, see p. 631.
96. From Hagerstown to Bristol. The Shenandoah
Valley.
Comp. Map, p. 156.
390 M. NoBFOLK & Western Railway in I33/4 hrs. (fare $ 11.70; parlor-
car $2, sleeper $3), — Passengers from New York and the North (New
York to Bristol in 19 hrs.) reach Hagerstown via Philadelphia, Lancaster,
and Harrisburg (comp. p. 189); those from Baltimore and Washington join
the route at Shenandoah Junction (comp. pp. 351, 597).
Hagerstown., see p. 189. The line runs towards the S., traversing
the battlefield of Antietam (p. xl), one of the bloodiest in the Civil
War. 6 M. St. James (465 ft.). — The village of (14 M.) Antietam
LURAY. 96. Route. 597
(445 ft.) is IV2 M- fifODi Burnside Bridge, tlie scene of the heaviest
fighting on Sept. 17th, 1862, and about the same distance from
Sharpsburg, the field of another severe contest. At Sharpsbnrg is a
National Cemetery, with the graves of 5000 soldiers. Numerous posts
and tablets commemorate the chief incidents in the battle of Antie-
tam. One monnment commemorates the part played in the battle
by President McKinley, then a sergeant in an Ohio regiment. —
We now quit Maryland and enter West Virginia (p. 189). At (17 M.)
Shepherdstown we cross the Potdmnc.
23 M. Shenandoah Junction (520 ft.) , for lines to Baltimore
and Washington (see R. 49), Martinsburg (p. 351), and Cumberland
(p. 351). We here begin to ascend the lovely *Slienandoali Valley,
which, in addition to its natural beauties, offers the interest of the
campaigns of the Civil War,
The so-called *Valley of Virginia, stretching between the Blue Eidge
and the Allegheny Mts. for about 300 M., covers 75U0 sq. M of ground and
includes the whole or part of the valleys of the Shenandoah, James, Roa-
noke, and New River. It was the scene of many conflicts during the war,
including Stonewall Jackson's skilful operations against Pope, Banks, Fre-
mont, and Shields (1862), and Sheridan's brilliant cavalry feats (1864).
The Shenandoah runs at first to the left, at some distance. Be-
yond it rise the Blue Eidge Mts. — 28 M. Charlestown (605 ft.), the
scene of John Brown's execution (p. 351), was so called after Col.
Charles Washington, a brother of the first President. — We cross the
river at (59 M.) Biverton (495 ft.), which lies at the confluence of
the N. and S. forks of the Shenandoah. We follow the S. fork (to our
left). The Shenandoah Yalley is here divided into two branches by
Massanutton Mt., an offshoot of the Alleghenies, which is now con-
spicuous to the right. — 62 M. Front Royal.
88 M. Luray (820 ft. ; Lawrance, Mansion Inn, $2), with 1150
inhab., finely situated on the HawkshilL, 5 M. from the Blue Ridge
and 3-4 M. from Massanutton. It is frequented by thousands of
visitors to the Luray Cavern (see below), justly ranked among the
most wonderful natural phenomena of America.
To reach the cave from the station (seat in vehicle there and hack
50 c.) we ascend the main street of the village to (15-20 min.) the top of
the hill, where we see (to the right) the conical hill containing the caves
and the cottage at the entrance (adm. $ 1, after 6 p.m ^iVz; electric lights
$lV2-2 extra; description of the cave '25c.). The *Cavern of Luray, dis-
covered in 1878, is probably 'more completely and profusely decor. ted with
stalactite and stalagmitic ornamentation' than any other in the world,
surpassing even the celebrated Adelsberg Cave in this respect. Appropriate
names have been given to the more important formations, which are often
as beautiful in colour as in shape. Small lakes, rivers, and springs occur.
The cavern has a pleasant uniform temperature of 54-58° and is traversed
by dry and easy paths, so that a visit to it involves little fatigue. It takes
about 11/2 hr. to see the parts usually shown to visitors.
Visitors to Luray may also ascend Stony Man (4030 ft.), one of the
highest of the Blue Ridge summits, which rises 5 M. to the E. and com-
mands a fine view (one day; horses can go all the way to the top) Accom-
modation may be obtained at (9 M.) Stonp Man Camp ( $ 2), near the top. —
Luray is also a good centre from which to visit many of the battlefields
of the Virginia Yalley campaign.
598 Route 96. NATURAL BRIDGE.
Beyond Luray the scenery of the valley continnes to Increase in
picturesqneness. 106 M. Shenandoah, with iron-works and railway
workshops. — 129 M. Grottoes or Shendun (1120ft.; Hotel Fnlton,
$2) is the station for a visit to the Grottoes of the Shenandoah
(Weyer and Fountain Caves), which lie 1/2 M. from the railway.
The grottoes (adm. $ 1) are lighted ty electricity and are easily ex-
plored (2-3 hrs.). Tlie stalactites and stalagmites vie witli those of Luray.
At (143 M.) Basic City (Belmont, $2; Brandon Hotel, open in
summer only, $'2-4), a new industrial settlement, we intersect the
C. & 0. Ry.'(p. 565). Near (167 M.) Vesuvius (1415 ft.) are the
Crabtree Falls. 185 M. Buena Vista (Colonnade, $ 2) is another
of the busy little towns that have recently sprung up to develop the
mineral resources of the district. "We cross the South River.
198 M. Natural Bridge Station (735 ft.), on the James River,
2^2 M. from the Natural Bridge (hotel-omnibuses meet the trains;
fare 50 c). The C. & 0. Ry. has also a station here.
The **Natural Bridge of Virginia (1500 ft. above the sea) is a huge
monolithic limestone arch, 215 ft. high, 00 ft. wide, and 90 ft. in span,
crossing the ravine of the Cedar Creek. It seems to be a remnant of a p-eat
horizontal bed of limestone rock that entirely covered the gorge of the
brook, which originally flowed through a subterranean tunnel. The rest
of this roof has fallen in and been gradually washed or worn away. The
bridge is finely situated in a beautiful amphitheatre, surrounded by moun-
tains, on land originally granted by George II I. to Thomas Jefferson, who
built a cabin here for the use of visitors. Adjacent is the Natural Bridge
Hotel (from $3; well spoken of). -A. kind of Park has been formed, em-
bracing the five hills named Lebanon^ Mars Hill^ Mt. Jefferson, Lincoln Heights,
and Cave Mt.; and drives and bridle-paths have been constructed in all
directions.
The pathway to the foot of the bridge (adm. $ 1) descends along a
tumbling brook, overhung by grand old arbor vitse trees. The *View of
the arch from below is very imposing. Among the names upon the smooth
side of the archway is that of George Washington (W. side, about 25 ft.
up), which was the highest of all until a student named Piper actually
climbed from the bottom to the top of the arch in IS 18. We pass under
the bridge and follow the path up the glen to (1 M.) the small but pretty
Lace Falls, passing Saltpetre Cave, Hemlock Island, and the Lost River. We
then return to the gate-house and follow the road crossing the bridge, so
as to enjoy the "Views from the top (from Pulpit Rock, Cedar Cliff, etc.).
A pleasant path leads from the bridge along the edge of Rock Rimmon,
on the top of the right (W.) bank of the ravine of Cedar Brook (views).
— Continuing to follow the road we soon come in sight of the {}|^ M.)
view-t^iwer on Mt. Jefferson, which commands a splendid "View of the Blue
Eidge (E.), the Peaks of Otter (S.E. ; p. 575), Purgatory Mt. (S.), House Mt. (N.),
and North Mt. (W.). — The view from Mt. Lincoln is said to be even better.
239 M. Roanoke, and thence to (390 M.) Bristol, see R. 91 h.
97. From Salisbury to Asheville and Morristown.
228 M. SouTHERS Railway to (141 M.) Asheville in 41/2-51/2 hrs. (fare
$4.60; sleeper $2); to (228 M.) Morristotcn in 61/2-8 ^rs. (fare $7.30; sleeper
$2). From New York to Asheville in 21-25 hrs. (fare $21.45; sleeper $5.)
This railway gives access to the beautiful scenery of Western North
Carolina ('Land of the Sky'), which may be described as a plateau with
an average altitude of 2000 ft., 250 M. long and 25 M. wide, bounded by
ASHEYILLE. 97. Route. 599
the Great Smoky Mts. (p. 5T7) on the W. and by the Blue Ridge (p. 597)
on the E. It is crossed by several spurs of the main chain, including the
Blacky the Balsam, the Pisgah, the Gowee, and the Nantahala ranges. Many
of these are higher than the main chains, the Black Mts. alone containing
19 peaks over 6000 ft. in height. The district is watered by numerous rivers
that rise in the Blue Ridge and flow with a steep decline and rapid cur-
rent across this plateau, cutting through the Great Smokies on their way
to the Mississippi. The French Broad, the Pigeon, the Tuckaseegee, and the
Little Tennessee are the chief of these. In this way the country is cross-
sectioned into many smaller valleys, affording endless variety of scenery.
The fact that even the highest mountains are densely wooded to their tops
adds much to the picturesqueness and softens the outlines of the landscape.
Salisbury, see p. 570. The line runs towards the W. 26 M.
5fa/esmi^e (925 ft.) is the junction of lines to TayloTsville&ndi Charlotte
(p. 570). Near (38 M.) Catawba we cross the Catawba. 48 M. Newton
(1015 ft.). The main Blue Ridge (p. 597) soon comes into sight on
the right, while various spurs are seen in the distance to the left. —
58 M. HicJcory (1165 ft.; Marshall, $2).
From Hickory a narrow-gauge railway runs to (20 M.) Lejioir (Hotel
Archer, $2-4, weU sp(iken of^ Martin's, $2), whence a drive of 4 hrs.
brings us to Blowing Rock (Blowing Rock Hotel, S 2-21/2; Green Park Ho.,
from $ 2), 2 M. from the famous precipice and mountain of this name
(400) ft.). The ''View from the latter is superb, including the Grandfather
(5965 ft.) on the W., the Pilot ML (2i35 ft.), 100 M. to the E., King's Mt.
(Ih50 ft.) to the S., and Mitchells Peak (p. 6oO) to the S.W. There are several
pretty waterfalls and other points of interest in the vicinity.
To the left, at (79 M.) Morganton (1110 ft.), is the large State
Lunatic Asylum. We enter the mountain-district proper at (111 M.)
Old Fort (1435 ft.) and ascend abruptly through a romantic gorge,
with its rocky walls overgrown by rhododendrons (in blossom in
June). The engineering of the railway here is interesting, with its
numerous loops, tunnels, cuttings, and bridges; at one point four
sections of the line lie perpendicularly one above the other. At the
head of the gorge we thread a long tunnel and reach the plateau of
Western North Carolina (p. 598). — 125 M. Black Mt. Station.
About 2 M. from this station (good road) lies Montreal (Hotel Montreat,
$ 3), beautifully situated at the headwaters of the Swannanoa. It forms
a convenient starting-point for the ascent of Mt. Mitchell (p. 600) and
other peaks.
139 M. Biltmore (see p. 600).
141 M. Asheville. — ^=Battert Paek Hotel, on a hill above the town,
from $4, R. from $ 11/25 Kenilwokth Inn, 2 M. from Asheville, near Bilt-
more, see p. 600, from S3, open all the year; The Mange, with several
cottages, in Albemarle Park, $3-4 according to season; Victokia Inn,
$ 21/2-31/2, on a hill, with fine view ; Swannanoa, from $ 21/2; Maego Teeeace,
from $ 2; Glen Rock, at the station, $2. — Electric Tramway to the station
(ii/2 M. from the centre of the town) and to Biltmore and other suburbs (5 c).
Asheville (1985 ft.), finely situated at the junction of the Swan-
nanoa and the French Broad, is the chief town of the district and is
widely known as a health-resort for patients suffering from pulmon-
ary and other ailments. Pop. (1900) 14,694. About 70,000 persons
visit Asheville annually, Southerners frequenting it for its compara-
tive coolness in summer (mean temp. 72°) and Northerners for its
600 Route 97. ASHEVILLE. From Salisbury
mildness in winter (39°) and spring (53° j chief seasons, July and
Aug., Feb. and March). Its climate is dry and bright, and there are
usually few days in the year in which out-door exercise is not en-
joyable. It is said to be preeminently suitable for early stages of
phthisis, while sufferers from asthma, hay fever, nervous prostration,
and the after-effects of fever all derive benefit from a sojourn in
Asheville. The environs are full of scenic attractions and offer abund-
ant opportunities for pleasant walks, rides, and drives. Overlook
and Riverside Parks, reached by electric cars (fare 15 c.5 splendid
views), have casinos, boating, and tennis courts.
Walks. Beaumont^ 1/2 M. to the E.^ grounds open to visitors. —
Fernihurst , V-/-z M. to the S. , overlooking the junction of the Swannanoa
and the French Broad (open daily, Sun. excepted). — Richmond Bill, 2V2M.
to the K.W. (always open). — Gouche's Peak (3 M.) and Elk ML (5 M.), to
the N. of the town, are fine points of view. — About 2 M. to the S.E. of
Asheville, near Biltmore station (p. 599), is *Biltinore, the home of Mr.
George W. Vanderbilt. The house, built in the French baronial style by
Richard M. Hunt, at a cost of $ 4,000,000, stands upon a terrace 700 ft.
long by 300 ft. wide and commands magnificent views. It contains much
fine tapestry and other works of art. Many miles of beautiful drives have
been constructed in the grounds, which have an extent of over 130,000 acres,
and they show a wonderfully varied display of trees (views). Visitors are
admitted to the grounds on Tues,, Thurs., & Sat., 12-6 p.m., by passes
obtained at the Biltmore Office in Biltmore village (small fee; large ex-
cursion-parties not admitted). Special passes sometimes issued for other
days. — Most of the Biltmore Estate (excepting 6000 acre.*? round the chateau)
has been leased by the Kmilworth d: Pisgdh Forest Shooting A Fishing Asso-
ciation, which offers its members and their friends admirable opportunities
of sport. At the railway-station is a tasteful model villa^iC, also designed
by R. M. Hunt, with cottages grouped around a central green. A School of
Domestic Science, for coloured girls, has been opened here.
Drives. Swannanoa Drive, extending for several miles along the river,
the banks of which are thickly wooded and covered with rhododendrons,
kalmia, and other wild flowers. — Sulphur Springs, 4V2 M. to the S. —
*Hickory Nut Gap, a beautiful pass where the Broad River penetrates the
Blue Ridge, lies 14 M. to the S.E. About 9 M. beyond the entrance to the
Gap is the curious Chimney Rock. On the opposite side rises Bald Mt.
(5o50 ft.), celebrated in Mrs. Frances Hodgson BurnetVs 'Esmeralda'. There
are two plain hotels not far from Chimney Rock. Other points of interest
are the Pools and the Hickory Nut Falls (1300 ft.). — Arden Park (Hotel,
$2), 10 M. to the S.
Longer Excursions and Mountain Ascents. *BIt. Hitchell or Black
Dome (6710 ft.), the highest peak in the United States to the E. of the Rocky
Mts., rises in the Black Mts., 18 M. to the E. of Asheville. Its base may be
reached by carriage along the Swannanoa or by railway to Black Mt. Station
(p. 5i)9) and thence (10 M.) by carriage. The ascent (arduous but not dangerous)
takes 5 hrs. The *View is very extensive. Provisions and horses may be
obtaini-d at the Hotel Montrea' (p. 599), and the night is usually spent in a
shallow cave near the top. The name is derived from Prof. Elisha Mitchell,
who lost his life here in 1857, while determining the height of the mountain,
and is buried at the summit. — *Mt. Pisgah (5715 ft.), one of the loftiest
peaks near Asheville, lies 18 M. to the S.W. and commands a splendid
view of the French Broad Valley. Accommodation for the night can be
obtained in a farmhouse at the base, and the ascent may be made on
hor'iiback in 2 hrs. — Craggy Mt. (6090 ft.), an outlier of the Blue Ridge,
14 M. to the E., may be ascended on horseback in 2 hrs. (best in June,
when hundreds of acres of rhododendrons, kalmias, azaleas, and heather
may be seen in bloom). — *Caesar"s Head (3225 ft.), an outlier of the Blue
Ridge, 45 M. to the S.W. of Asheville, may be reached either by carriage
to Morriatown, HOT SPRINGS. 97. Route. 601
the whole way or hy train to Brevard (see helow) and carriage thence. On
the S. side of the mountain is a precipice 1500 ft. high, overlooking the
low country of South Carolina and Georgia for 100 M. At the summit stands
a fair hotel ($ 2). Various points of interest are passed on the way. —
Other distant points visited from Asheville are Hoi Springs (see below),
Highlands (p. 571), Eoan ML (p. 576), Tryon (see below), and Blowing Bock
(p. 599).
Fkom Ashbville to Spartanbdkg, 70 M., railway in 3V3-33/4 hrs. — This
line runs towards the S.E. 22 M. Hmdersonville (2130 ft. ; Gates, from 3 3 5
The Wheeler, from $ 2) is the junction of a line to Lake Toxatoay (see
below). Farther on the train reaches the picturesque 'Saluda Gap, where
it descends rapidly through a narrow gorge. Fine views (best to the left).
Rhododendrons numerous. — 43 M. Tryon (Mimosa, from $ 2V2), a pleasant
little resort. — 70 M. Spartanburg^ see p. 571.
Feom Hendeksonville to Lake Toxawat, 42 M., Southern Bailroad in
2V2 hrs. This railway penetrates to the heart of the so-called '■Sapphire
Country'' (hotels open in summer only), a beautiful lake- district, elevated
about 3000 ft. above the sea. — The chief intermediate station is (22 M.)
Brevard (Franklin Inn, from $ 21/2), whence numerous pleasant excursions
may be made. It is one of the nearest stations to (16 M.) Caesar's Head
(p. 600). — 42 M. Lake Toxaway ("Toxaway Inn, $ 21/2-5). The most
accessible of the neighbouring mountains is Mt. Toxaway or the Great
Hogback (4780 ft. ; The Lodge, $ 2), which commands a fine view of the
district, including 100 other peaks and extending to the Smoky Mts. of
Tennessee (p. 577). Two other charming sheets of water, each about 7 M.
from Lake Toxaway, are Lake Fairfield (Fairfield Inn, $ 3-4) and Lake
Sapphire ($ 21/2), a favourite fishing-resort.
From Asheville to Muepht, 124 M., railway in 63/4 hrs. — The line
runs towards the S.W. 28 M. Waynesville (2640 ft. ; White Sulphur Springs
Ho., from $ 3) lies amid the Balsam Mis., five of which in the immediate
vicinity are over 6000 ft. high. — 36 M. Balsam (Rail. Restaurant). 49 M.
Dillsboro lies 32 M. to the N. of Highlands (p. 571), which is sometimes
approached hence. — 124 M. Murphy (Cottage Park, from $ 2, summer only).
Beyond Asheville the Moeeistown Train mns to the N. through
the heautiful valley of the French Broad Biver. Picturesque scenery
(views first to the right, then to the left, and then to the right again).
153 M. Alexander.
179 M. Hot Springs (1325 ft.; *Mountain Park Hotel, $ 3-4],
situated in a beautiful little valley, 1 M. in diameter, surrounded by
mountains 3-4000 ft. high, has long been frequented for its hot
springs and delightful climate (winter milder than at Asheville).
The springs (temp. 84-104°) are efficacious in rheumatism, gout,
sciatica, skin and blood affections, and nervous prostration. Pleasant
walks may be taken among the hills , but the drives are limited to
those up and down the river. Bound Top (1750 ft.), to the N., across
the river, is easily ascended in 1/2 hr. and commands a good view.
At (184 M.) Paint Bock (1265 ft.) the French Broad forces its way
through a gap between the Great Smoky Mts. Tleft) and the Bald
Mts. (right). We enter Tennessee (p. 583).
At (228 M.) Morristown (^Virginia Ho., $2) we join the line
from Washington to Chattanooga (see R. 91b).
BaeOekek's United States. 4th Edit. 38
602
98. From Eichmond to Charleston.
a. Vis, Weldon.
396 M. Railway (Atlantic Coast Line) in 93/4-I43/4 hrs. (fare $ 9.85;
sleeper $ 3). This line forms part of the 'Atlantic Coast Line Route' from
New York to Florida (see R. 103a ; from New York to Charleston in 19V4-
26 hrs.; fare $ 19.00, sleeper $ 4.50).
From Richmond to (23 M.) Petersburg, see p. 564. Some remains
of tlie fortifications of the Civil War are still visible (see p. 564).
Near (76 M.) Pleasant Hill we enter North Carolina. At (84 M.)
Weldon (80 ft.) we intersect the Seaboard Air Line from Norfolk
(see p. 562). The train now traverses a fiat region, clothed with
endless pine-forests. 121 M. Rocky Mount, the junction of lines to
(116 M.) Norfolk (p. 561) and to (68 M.) Plymouth, on Albemarle
Sound. At (137 M.) Wilson the line forks, the new 'Short Cnt'
running in a straight direction, while the line to (24 M.) Goldshoro
(comp. p. 570) and (108 M.) Wilmington diverges to the left.
"Wilmington {New Colonial Inn, from S 2V2 ; Orton, $ 21/2 ; Ocean View,
$ 21/2, at Carolina Beach; Sea Shore Hotel, at Wrights ville Beach, $ 21/2;
Brit. & Ger. vice-consuls), the largest city of North Carolina (20,976 inhab.),
lies on the Cape Fear River, 20 M. from the Atlantic Ocean. It has a large
foreign commerce and regular steamship - communication with New York,
Philadelphia, and Baltimore. It is a prominent market for naval stores.
The Atlantic Coast Line (see above) has its headquarters here. — From Wilm-
ington a railway runs to the N. to (87 M.) iVetr Bern (p. 570).
163M. Selma, the junction of a line to Raleigh (see p. 570) ; 211 M.
Fayetteville, the junction of lines to Sanford and Greensboro (p. 570),
to Bennettsville, and to Wilmington (see ahove).
On the Bennettsville line , 25 M. from Fayetteville, lies Red Springs
(Townsend Hotel), a frequented resort with two mineral springs. In
summer a coach runs hence to Southern Pines (p. 581).
243 M. Pembroke, the junction of a line to Charlotte (p. 570).
At (281 M.) Pee Dee we are rejoined by the Wilmington loop-line.
— 294 M. Florence (Central Hotel, $2-3), with 4647 inhab., is a
cotton-market. We here turn sharply to the left (S.). — 342 M.
Lane's is the junction of a line to (37 M.) Georgetown (Tourist,
$ 2i/o-3), a quaint old seaport (400 inhab.). 390 M. Ashley Junction
(comp. pp. 608, 612).
396 M. Charleston, see p. 603.
b. Vii. Charlotte and Columbia.
520 M. SocTHEBN Railway in 17-19 hrs. (fares as above).
Richmond, see p. 555. The train crosses the James, passes (IM.)
Manchester (p. 555), and runs to the S.W. through a tobacco-grow-
ing district. At (53 M.) Burkeville (515 ft.) we intersect the Nor-
folk &Western Railway (R. 91 b). 73 M. Keysville (625 ft.). At (90 M.)
Randolph we cross the Staunton, a tributary of the Roanoke.
From (109 M.) South Boston we follow the Dan River to (141 M.J
Danville (p. 670).
CHARLESTON. 99. Route. 603
From DanvlUe to (282 M.J Charlotte, see p. 570. We here di-
verge to the left from the ronte to New Orleans (R. 91a). Beyond
(299 M.) Fort Mill we cross the Catawba River. 326 M. Chester.
391 M. Columbia (300 ft. ; * Colonial, from $31/2, R. from $2;
Jerome, from $ 21/2 ; Wright, $ 21/2-4 ; Columbia Hotel, from $ 21/2),
the capital of South Carolina, lies on the high banks of the Congaree,
in the district of the Pine Barrens. Pop, (1900) 21,108. Its streets
are wide and shady, and many of the public buildings are imposing.
The most important is the *State House, in the grounds of which is
a fine monument to the 'Palmetto Regiment', which served with
distinction in the Mexican War (1846-47). Other large edifices are
the State Penitentiary, the Lunatic Asylum, the Court House, and
the City Hall. The University of South Carolina is attended by
285 students. The grounds of the Executive Mansion and Arsenal
Hill command fine views of the valley. Pleasant drives may be taken
in the Fair Grounds and Sydney Park. The city possesses large ear,
machine, and iron works.
Columbia became the state-capital in 1796. In 1832 tlie 'Nullification
Ordinance' was passed by a convention sitting here ; and on Dec. 20tli,
1860, another convention announced the dissolution of the union between
S. Carolina and the other states. The city was occupied by Gen. Sher-
man in 1865 and suflfered severely from fire.
From Columbia to (94 M.) Spartanburg, see p. 571 ; to Augmta, see p. 607.
Beyond Columbia our line passes through a level, pine-clad
district. 414 M. Kihgville is the junction of branch-Hnes to (37 M.)
Camden (p. 613) and to (24 M.) Sumter. — At (457 M.) Branch-
ville (Rail. Restaurant) we join the line described in R. 100.
520 M. Charleston, see below.
99. Charleston.
Hotels. Chakleston Hotel (PI. a ; B,2), from $ 3 ; St. John (PL d ; B, 2),
$ 2V2 5 Abgtle (PI. b ; B, 2), R. from $ 1 1/2, these three all in Meeting St. ; "Villa
Makghebita (PI. c; B, 2), South Battery, Shameock Teeeace, East Battery,
these two boarding-houses, preferable to the hotels (previous application
necessary). — Railway Restaurant; Women's Exchange (Pl.W; B, 2), S. King St.
for 'Lady Baltimore' cake; comp. Owen Wister's novel of that name).
Electric Tramways, including a Belt Line, traverse the chief streets
(5 c.) and run to various suburban points. — Omnibuses & Automobiles meet
the principal trains (fare 25 c).
Eailway Station : Union (PI- B, 1), a mile from centre of town.
Steamers ply to New Fork (50hrs.; fare $20), Boston, Savannah, George-
tovon, Beaufort, and Jacksonville. A steam-ferry plies daily to Mt. Pleasant,
in connection with electric cars to Sullivan's Island and Isle of Palms
(comp. p. 606).
Post Office (PI. P; B, 2), cor. of Meeting and Broad Sts. — Academy of
Music, King St.
Consuls. British Vice Consul, Mr. Alex. Harkness; German, Mr. E.
Jahnz.
38*
604 Route 99. CHARLESTON. Hiatory.
Charleston, the largest city of Sonth Caxolina and one of the cMef
seaports of tlieSonthem States, occupies the end of the narrow pen-
insula formed by the confluence of the Ashley and Cooper Rivers,
about 6 M. from their embouchure in the Atlantic Ocean. It is a
pleasant old-fashioned town, with its main streets well paved an d
numerous pictxiresque private residences embowered in semi-tropical
flowers and trees. Pop. (1900) 55,807, more than half of whom are
coloured. The land-locked harbour, since recent deepening and
improvements, admits vessels of 30 ft. draught.
The small body of colonists under Col. Sayle, sent out by the lords
proprietors to take possession of tbe Carolinas in 1669, after calling at
Port Royal, settled on tbe W. bank of the Asbley River, but soon (ca.
1680) transferred tbeir town, named in bonour of Charles II., to its present
site. In 1685-86 numerous Huguenot emigrants were added to tbe population,
and liOO exiles from Acadia settled here in 1755. Charleston took a pro-
minent share in the Revolutidn, repelled an attack on Sullivan''s Island
(PI. F, 3) in 1776 (Col. Moultrie), and was captured by Sir Henry Clinton
in 1780 after an obstinate defence. Tbe Civil War began at Charleston
with tbe bombardment of Fort Sumter (p. 605; April l'2-l3th, 1861), and
the city was more than once attacked by tbe Unionists in tbe ensuing years,
being finally evacuated in Feb., 1865. In 1886 Charleston was devastated
by a severe earthquake, which rendered seven-eighths of its houses un-
inhabitable, destroyed property to the value of $8,000,000, and killed
scores of persons. A few traces of its action are still visible in the form
of ruined buildings and iron stays and clamps. — The visitors from the
N. will be interested in the Buzzards, which act the part of scavengers.
Comp. 'Charleston: the Place and the People', hy Mrs. St. JtUienRavenel (i20Q).
Before the war Charleston was the chief cotton -shipping port of
America, and it still handles a good deal of cotton and rice. Its present
prosperity is, however, chiefly due to the discovery of extensive beds of
excellent phosphates near the Ashley River; and the annual value of the
exports of this article (including fertilizers) amounts to about $10,000,000.
A visit to the phosphate-mines is interesting. Charleston also carries on a
trade in timber, fruit, and vegetables, and manufactures cotton, flour,
carriages, machines, and other articles (value in 1900, $9,562,500).
Leaving the Union Railway Station (PI. B, 1) we may first pro-
ceed to the W. to Meeting Street (PI. A, B, 1, 2), the chief whole-
sale business street. Here we turn to the left and soon reach Makion
or Citadel Squaee, adorned with a statue of John C. Calhoun (1782-
1850), the famous S. Carolina statesman. On the N. side of the square
is the large South Carolina Military Academy, usually known as
the Citadel (PL B, 1). the cadets of which took a prominent share
in the Civil War (see p. 605). — Farther on we pass the Argyle and
Charleston Hotels (p. 603) ; the Market (PI. K, B 2; interesting sight
6-9 a.m.) 5 the Circular Church (PI. B; left), rebuilt some years
ago in a handsome style ; the Gibbes Memorial Art Gallery (PI. H),
opposite the last; the St. John Hotel (p. 603); and the Commercial
Club (right). At the intersection of the street with Begad Street
(PI. B, 2) stands a group of public buildings: the Court House (PI. F)
and Post Office (PI. P; a handsome granite edifice) to the right,
and the City Hall (PI. C; with some interesting portraits) and
St. Michael's Church (PI. S; originally built in 1752-61; comp.
p. Ixxxvii) to the left.
Battery. CHARLESTON. 99. Route. 605
St. Michael's was struck six times by the Federal cannon during the
siege, was damaged by a cyclone in 1885, and nearly destroyed by the
earthquake in 1886. Its fine tower (view) contains a good set of chimes.
In the churchyard, close to the iron gate in Broad St., is the tomb of a
brother of A. H. Cloagh, with an epitaph by the poet, who spent part of
his boyhood in Charleston, where his father was a cotton-merchant.
In front of the City Hall is a Statue of William Pitt, erected in
1770; the right arm was broken off by a British cannon-shot in 1780.
Farther on, Meeting St. passes numerous private houses, embowered
in roses, jessamines, and myrtles. It ends at *"Wh.ite Point Garden
(PI. Y; B, 3), shaded with beautiful live-oaks and commanding a
fine view across the Ashley River. The Jasper Monument com-
memorates a gallant act in the defence of Fort Moultrie (see below ;
June 28th , 1776). Adjacent are a bronze Bust of Wm. Oilmore
Simms (d. 1870) and a round tower made of blocks of phosphate
(see p. 604). To the E. extends the Battery (PI. B, 2, 3), a broad
esplanade, 500 yds. long, affording a good view of the harbour and
its forts.
On the island opposite the battery is Castle Pincknep (PL C, 2), and farther
out is Fort Ripley (PI. D, 3), while Forts Moultrie (PI. F, 3) and Johnson
(PI. D, 4) stand opposite each other on Sullivan s Island (left) and James
Island (right). Modern fortifications have been erected on Sullivan's Is-
land, and in 1897 a company of TJ. S. troops was stationed there for the
first time since the Civil War. Fori Stimter (PL E, 4) occupies a small
island in the middle of the entrance to the harbour. The first shot in
the Civil War was fired by the Citadel cadets (p. 604), from a battery thrown
up on Morris Island (beyond PL E, 4), against a vessel trying to take rein-
forcements to the Union troops in Fort Sumter (Jan. 9th, iS61). On April
12th Fort Moultrie and the other batteries opened fire on Fort Sumter, which
had been occupied by Major Anderson with a small body of Union tmops,
and its flag was hauled down on the following day. In 1863 the Federal
fleet invested the harbour and began a bombardment of the forts and the
city, which lasted, with scarcely an intermission, till the final evacuation
of Charleston in 1865. Morris Island had to be abandoned, but Forts
Sumter and Moultrie defended themselves successfully against all attacks.
Steamer to Fort Sumter, etc., see p. 603.
"We now return along East Bay (PI. B, 1, 2), passing the old Post
Office, to the Custom House (PI. G), built of white marble (view of
harbour from back). A visit may also be paid to one of the Cotton
Compresses (no smoking) in this locality,
Charleston prides itself, with some reason, on its charitable in-
stitutions. Perhaps the most prominent of these is the Orphan House
(PI. N ; B, 1) , founded in 1792 and said to be the oldest American
institution of the kind. The Enston Home (beyond PI. A, 1), in King
St., consists of a group of 40 cottages, with a church.
Other important buildings are the College of Charleston (PI. E ;
B, 2), founded in 1788; St. Philip's Church (PI. T; B, 2), Church
St., with Calhoun's grave in the churchyard (on the other side of the
street); St. Finbar's Cathedral (R. C; PI. R, B 2), rebuilt since 1890
and now dedicated to John the Baptist; the old Huguenot Church
(PI. I ; liturgy translated from the French) ; the Medical College (PI. L) ;
the old Powder Magazine, now used as a Chapter Room by the
Colonial Dames'; the Porter Military Academy (PI. 0; A, 1); the
606 Route 99. CHARLESTON.
Museum (PI. A; A, 2) ; and the Boper Hospital (PI. Q ; B, 2). The
Avery Normal School has 400 coloured students.
To the N. of the city, 3 M. from the City Hall (tramway 10 c. ; carr. there
and back $ 5), lies ^Magnolia Cemetery, which should he visited for its fine
live-oaks (draped with 'Spanish moss'), azaleas, magnolias, camelias, al-
mond-trees, etc. (best in May or June). The boughs of one of the live-oaks
have a spread of 100 ft., and the trunk of another is 17-18 ft. in girth. —
To the N.W. of the city lies Hampton Park (PI. A, 1).
No one in the season (March-May) should omit to visit the (12 M.) **Gar-
dens of Magnolia (reached by railway or steamer), on the Ashley, the
chief glory of which is the gorgeous display of the azalea bushes, which
are sometimes 15-20 ft. high and present huge masses of vivid and unbroken
colouring. The live-oaks, magnolias, and japonicas are also very fine.
The *Church of St. James's Ooosecreek^ an interesting relic of 1711, with
the British Eoyal Arms still suspended above the chancel, lies in the heart
of a forest 1 M. from (15 M.) Otranto Station. Otranto M^as the residence
of Dr. Alex. Garden (d. 1791), after whom Linneeus named the gardenia.
Near the church is a farm known as The Oaks, from a magnificent *-i4t;enwe
of Oaks (200 years old) which leads to it.
Electeic Cabs run from Charleston to (7 M.) Chicora Park (return- fare
20 c.) and via 3ft. Pleasant (PI. E, 1) and Sullivan's Island (PI. F, 3; Atlantic
Beach Hotel, $ 21/2-3) to (10 M.) Isle of Palms (Seashore, $ 21/2), a resort on
the Atlantic coast (return-fare 30 c). Osceola (p. 617) died as a captive
at Fort Moultrie (PI. F, 3) and is buried on Sullivan's Island.
On the Cooper River, to the N. of Charleston, is a U. S. Naval Station,
with dockyard (electric car via Meeting St. ; fare 10 c).
100. From Charleston to Augusta.
138 M. Southern Railway in 5-8 hrs. (fare $4.50; parlor-car 75 c.).
Charleston, see p. 603. The line runs slightly to the N. of W.
15 M. Woodstock. — 22 M. Summerville (*Pine Forest Inn, from
$31/2, open in winter only; Dorchester Inn, from $2), a favourite
winter-resort among the pines and much frequented by the citizens
of Charleston. There are many heautiful drives in the neighhour-
hood, and fair fishing and shooting are within easy reach. Its golf-
links are good. «
Near Summerville is Pinehurst Tea Plantation (Dr. Shepard's), the first
in the "United States. Its annual produce amounts to about 3000 lbs.
42 M. PregnalVs is the junction of a line to Sumter (p. 603).
63 M. Branchville (Rail. Restaurant) is the junction of the line
to Columbia (see p. 603). Our line continues to run towards the
W. and at (91 M.) Blackville intersects the line from Columbia to
Savannah (see p. 608).
121 M. Aiken (490 ft. ; *Park in the Pines, from $ 5 ; Magnolia
Inn, Palmetto, from $2^/2? Aiken Hotel, commercial, open all tht
year round, from $ 2), with 4000 inhah., a popular and fashionable
winter-resort. It lies in the 'sand hUl' or 'pine barren' district of
S. Carolina, and is surrounded by vast forests of fragrant pines,
growing in a soil of white sand. The gardens of the town, thanks
to careful cultivation and a liberal use of fertilizers, are full of jes-
AUGUSTA. 100. Route. 607
samine, orange-trees, aud other S. plants. The air is dry and balmy.
The mean temperature of winter is 50° Fahr. , of spring 57°, of
antnmn 64°. The Palmetto Golf Links (18 holes) at Aiken, among
the best in the S., are the scene of various important competitions.
Fox-hnnting, racing, polo, tennis, squash, and cricket are also among
the amusements.
Extensive deposits of kaoline occur near the town, and this contains
a large percentage of alumininm, for the extraction of which large works
have been recently erected.
An electric tramway runs from Aiken to (1 hr.) Augusta, passing
Hampton Terrace (see below).
138 M. Augusta (180 ft.; *Bon Air Hotel, at Summerville, see
below, $4-5; Albion, Genesta, Planters, Turkish Baths Hotel, R.
from $1; Three Oaks Inn; * Hampton Terrace, N. Augusta, in S.
Carolina, 1/4 hi. by trolley from Augusta, from $ 5), the third city of
Georgia (56,230 inhab.), pleasantly situated on the right bank of the
Savannah, at the head of navigation, and connected by a bridge with
Hamburg (S. C.) on the left bank. It carries on a large trade in
cotton (400,000 bales yearly), and its cotton-mills, run by a system of
Water Power Canals, produce more unbleached cotton goods than any
other city in America (value of manufactures in 1900, $ 10,000,000).
The main canal, bringing water from the Savannah, is 7 M. long,
150ft. wide, and 14 ft. deep; it is owned by the city, and its revenues
pay nearly the whole interest on the municipal debt. Broad Street,
120 ft. wide and paved with asphalt, is one of the handsomest
business-thoroughfares in America; * Greene Street, with a fine double
avenue of trees, is the most beautiful residence-street. In Broad St.
is a handsome Confederate War Monument. Among the chief build-
ings are the City Hall, the U. S. Building, and the Exchange. The
Sibley Cotton Mill is architecturally noteworthy. Clos e by it rises
the tall Chimney of the Confederate Powder Mills, left standing as a
memorial of the Civil War. Eli Whitney (p. 236), who invented and
perfected the cotton-gin in Georgia, in 1792, is commemorated by
a bronze tablet in the Court House.
On the hills 3 M. to the W. of Augusta (electric car) lies Summerville
(3245 inhab.), with a U. S. Arsenal and the Bon Air Hotel (see above). —
Schultz'^s Hill, at Hamburg (see above), and the Fair Grounds are favourite
resorts.
Fkom Adgusta to Atlanta, 171 M., Georgia R. R. in 53/4-61/2 hrs.
(fare $3.85; sleeper $1.50). The chief intermediate stations are (47 M.)
Camak, the junction of a line to Macon (p. 611); 103 M, Madison, the junc-
tion of lines to Macon and Athens (p. 581); and (119 M.) Social Circle,
connecting with the Gainesville, Jefferson, and Southern E. E. — 171 M.
Atlanta, see p. 571.
From Augusta to Savannah, see R. 102. — Other lines connect it with
(83 M.) Tennille (Augusta Southern R. E. ; a fruit-growing centre), Port Royal
(p. 608), Seneca, Spartanburg (p. 571), etc.
608
101. From Eichmond to Savannah.
a. Vi& Charleston.
511 M. Railway (Atlantic Coast Line) in 15 hrs. ($ 12.755 sleeper $ 3.50).
From Richmond to (396 M.) Charleston, see R. 98 a. The line
tnrns to the left (S.) at (402 M.) Ashley Junction (p. 602j and
traverses a marshy district, with forests of moss-draped cypress and
oak. At (456 M.) Temassee we intersect the railway from Angnsta
(p. 607) to Beaufort and Port Royal.
Beaufort (Sea Island Ho., from $2^/2; Inlet Inn; Brit, vice-consul, also
for Port Royal, Mr. J. E. Kessler), on St. Helena Island, is a fashionable
Soutliern resort, with 6000 inhab. and a fine shell-road and promenade. —
Port Royal, with one of the finest harbours on the coast, was the first
landing-place of the Charleston settlers (see p. 604).
486 M. Hardeeville (see helow). We cross the wide and slow
Savannah before reaching (497 M.) Monteith, and beyond it we cross
the line from Angusta (p. 610).
511 M. Savannah, see below.
b. Vil, Danville and Columbia.
544 M. Southern Railway' in 16-17 hrs. (fares as above).
From Richmond to (391 M.) Columbia, see R. 98 b. Beyond
Colnmbia the train rnns to the S. throngh a flat, wooded region.
423 M. Perry. At (443 M.) Blackville (p. 606) we intersect the line
from Charleston to Angusta (see R. 100), and at (469 M.) Allendale
we cross the line from Augusta to Port Royal (see above). 482 M.
Valentine; 499 M. Pineland. At (521 M.) Hardeeville we join the
Atlantic Coast Line. Hence to (544 M.) Savannah, see above.
Savannah. — *De Soto Hotel (PI. a; B, C, 3), Madison Sq., a large
and handsome house, $3-5, R. from $1V2; Maktinique (PI. d; B, 2), cor.
Bull St. and Oglethorpe Ave.; Pdlaski (PI. b; B, 1), Sceeven (PI. c; B, 2),
Johnson Sq., 8 2V2-3V2, E- $1-
Railway Stations. Union Station (PI. A, 4), for various lines, W. Broad
St., between Stewart & Roberts Sts.; Central of Georgia Eailteay Station
(PI. A, 3), cor. W. Broad and Liberty Sts.; Tybee Depot (beyond PI. D, 2),
for the railway to Tybee Beach (p. 610).
Teamways traverse the chief streets (5 c). — Steameks ply from the
wharves on the Savannah (beyond PI. D, 1) to ff'ew York (45-55 hrs.; $20),
Boston, Philadelphia, Baltimore^ Norfolk, Charleston, Florida, etc.
Post Office (PI. B, 2), Wright Sq. — Savannah Theatbe (PI. B, C, 3),
Chippewa Sq. (dating in part from 1818, but practically rebuilt after a fire
in 1906).
Consuls. British (for N. <fe S. Carolina, Georgia, and Tennessee), Mr.
J. A. Donnelly, 10 Abercorn St. : German, Mr. Ernst Eichhorn.
Savannah ('Forest City'), the second city and chief commercial
centre of Georgia, lies on the S. bank of the river of the same name,
on a bluff 40 ft. above the level of the river and IBM. from its mouth.
It is weU built and regularly laid out, and the beautiful semi-tropical
vegetation of its numerous parks and squares makes a very pleasing
impression. Bay Street is the chief thoroughfare for wholesale business,
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Telfair Academy. SAVANNAH. 101. Route. 609
while Congress Street and Broughton Street contain the best shops.
Bull Street is the most fashionable promenade. Pop. (1900) 54,244.
Savannali was settled in 1733 by Gen. Oglethorpe, the founder of the
youngest of the 13 original states, and owes much of its present beauty
to the foresight of the plan he laid out. His object was to provide an
asylum for the poor of England and the Protestants of all nations. John
and Charles Wesley visited the settlement in 1736, and George Whitefield
reached it in 1737. In the early troubles between the British and Spanish
colonists Oglethorpe and his settlers played a prominent part, penetrat-
ing to the walls of St. Augustine (p. 615). In 1778 Savannah was captured
by the British, who repulsed a Franco -American attempt to retake it
the following year. The port of Savannah was closed to commerce by
the Federal fleet from 1861 to 1865, and Sherman occupied the city in
Dec. 1864, at the end of his triumphant 'March through Georgia' (comp.
p. 571). Since the war its progress has been rapid. Savannah contained 5195
inhab. in 1810; 15,312 in 1850; and 43,189 in 1890. — The first steamship
to cross the Atlantic Ocean started from Savannah in 1819.
Savannah's export-trade is extensive, the chief articles being cotton,
lumber, rice, and naval stores (total value in 1906, S 64,839,551). Its manu-
factures (value $ 8,000,(X)0 in 1906) include railway-cars, fertilizers, flour,
and iron. Savannah has taken away much of the shipping-trade from
Charleston. A visit should be paid to one of the Rice Mills (River St.) and
one of the Cotton Compressee (at the wharves).
The visitor may begin with a glance at the warehouses and
wharves at the foot, and at the busy traffic of Bay St. (PI. A-D, 1) on
the top of the bluffs overhanging the river. Among the buildings in
this part of the city are the City Exchange or City Hall (PL B, 1 ;
*View from tower) and the Custom House (PI. B, 1). We then
follow *BiJLL Street (see above) towards the S., crossing Johnson
Square (PI. B, 1, 2), with a Monument to Gen. Greene^ erected in 1829,
and the recently restored Christ Church (PI. B, C, 2; good interior).
In the building at the N.E. corner of Bull St. and Broughton St. the
Ordinance of Secession was passed on Jan. 21st, 1861. In Wright
Square (PI. B, 2) are the handsome County Court House, built in
1889-91, and the Federal Building, including the Post Office and
the V. S. Court House. A boulder-monument in this square com-
memorates Tom- O- Chi- Chi, the Indian chief from whom Gen. Ogle-
thorpe (see above) acquired the site of Savannah.
A little to the W. of this point, in Telfair Place, is the "Telfair
Academy (PI. A, B, 2; adm. 10-5, Sun. 1-5; 25 c). It contains a collection
of casts, a selection of paintings, and various objects of art and historical
interest. Among the paintings are good works by Eaulbach, Julian Story,
Diicker^ Szymanotcski, J. von Brandt, and C. L. Brandt. The galleries are
adorned with mural paintings by Schraudolph and G. L. Brandt.
At opposite corners of Oglethorpe Avenue are the Independent
Presbyterian Church (PI. B, 3) and the Chatham Academy (PI. B, 3).
— In Oglethorpe Ave., a little to the E., is the Colonial Park (PI.
C, 3), on the site of an interesting ol d burying-ground.
We then cross Chippewa Square (PI. B, 3) and reach Liberty
Street, in which, a little to the E., is the Convent of St. Vincent
de Paul (PL C, 3). The fine *Roman Catholic Cathedral was rebuilt
after a fire in 1898. In Madison Square (PL B, 3, 4) is the Jasper
Monurnent (comp. p. 605), erected in 1879 in honour of Sergeant
610 Route 101. SAVANNAH. Environs.
Jasper, who was killed at Savannah in 1779. The Green House, at the
N."W. comer of the square, was the headquarters of Gen. Sherman
(p. 609). At the S.W. corner is the Guards Armoury. To the E.
is the new Y. M. C. A. [PI. B, C, 3, 4). Monterey Square (PI. B, 4)
contains the Pulaski Monument, in memory of Connt Pnlaski, who
fell at the siege of Savannah in 1779 (see p. 609).
"We now reach the heantiful *PorsythPark (PL B,4, 5), with its
pines, roses, coleas, palmettoes, oleanders, jasmines, cacti, magnolias,
etc. In the centre is a fountain. The Parade Ground (PI. B, 5, 6),
forming an extension of the park towards the S., contains a fine Con-
federate War Monument (PI. B, 5). At the S. end of the Parade
Ground is the Telfair Hospital (PI. B, C, 6). The Memorial of General
Lawton (1899), in Anderson St. (heyondPl. B, 6), deserves notice.
At the corner of Whitaker and Gaston Sts., adjoining Forsyth Park on
the W., is Hodgson Hall (PI. B, 4, 5), with the Public Library and the
collections of the Georgia Historical Society. The First African Baptist
Church (PI. A, 1, 2), Franklin Square, has 5000 communicants.
Environs. *Bonaventure Cemetery, 4 M. to the E., reached by the
Savannah Electric Railway (cor. of Bolton St. and E. Broad St., PI. D 6 ;
fare 5 c.) or by the Thunderbolt Shell Road., is famous for its avenues of
live-oaks, draped with Spanish moss. Thunderbolt., on the Wilmington
River., 1 M. farther on, is a favourite resort. — Another fine shell-road leads
to the S. to (9 M.) White Bluff. — The Hermitage, 5 M. to the N.W., on
the Savannah River, is an interesting Colonial mansion. — Another branch
of the Savannah Electric Railway runs from the comer of Whitaker and
40th Sts. to (6 M. ; fare 5 c.) Isle of Hope, on the Skidaxoay River., and
to (9 M. 5 fare 10 c.) Montgomery, on the Vernon River, two pretty suburban
resorts. Near the latter, to the E., is Beaulieu. At (8 M.) Bethesda, on
this line, is a large orphanage, established by George Whitefield in 1740. —
At the mouth of the Savannah Eiver lies (18 M.) Tybee Beach {Hotel Tyhee,
$3-4), one of the most popular sea-bathing resorts of the S. (railway in
3/4 hr.; comp. p. 608; return-ticket 40 c.). It has a fine beach. Adjacent,
on Cockspur Island, is Fort Pulaski., which has been greatly strengthened
since its capture by the Unionists in 1862. — A steamer plies twice weekly
from Savannah to Fernandina (p. 615), calling at Brunswick (p. 579) and at
several points on the 'Sea Islands, on which large quantities of 'Sea Island'
cotton and rice are grown. They are covered with palmettoes and live
oaks. The S. end of Cumberland Island, between Brunswick and Fernandina,
became the property of Gen. Nathaniel Greene after the Revolution, and
Washington's friend, 'Light Horse Harry Lee', died and was buried here
in 1818. The mansion-house is named Dungeness. — The Savannah Automobile
Course, 26^/4 M. in length, is one of the best in the country.
102. From Savannah to Atlanta.
295 M. Central of Georgia Railavay in 11 hrs. (fare $ 7.81 ; sleeper $ 2).
Savannah, see p. 608. The railway runs a little to the N. of W.
At (17 M.) Meldrim we connect with the Seaboard Air Line. 30 M.
Guyton;36M.. Tusculum ; bl M. Dover, the junction of aline to (10 M.)
Statesboro ; 66 M. Roclcy Ford, the junction of a line to (20 M.) Sylvania.
At (79 M.) Millen the railway forks, the right branch running to
the N. to (53 M.) Augusta (see p. 607). Our line hends to the left
and runs nearly due W. 87 M. Rogers; 96 M. Midville; 107 M.
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FLORIDA. 103. Route. 611
Wadley; 136 M. Tennille (p. 607). Beyond (146 M.) Oconee we
cross the river of that name. From (171 M.) Gordon a branch-line
diverges to the right for Machen (Covington^ Athens).
191 M. Macon [New Lanier Ho., $21/2-4; Brown Ho., from
$ 2V2; ParTc, $2), a cotton -mart and railway - centre, with 23,272
inhab., lies on the Ocmulgee River. The Wesleyan Female College
here (475 stndents) dates from 1836 and claims to he the oldest
female college in the world. Mercer College is a Baptist institution.
The Central of Georgia branch running to the S. fTom Macon to
(71 M.) Americus passes (60 M.) Anderson or Andersonville, the site of the
great Stockade Prison in which so many of the Union troops were con-
fined during the Civil War. The prison-grounds have been converted
into a park, and a memorial monument has been erected.
At Macon our line crosses the Southern Railway route from
Chattanooga and Atlanta to Brunswick (see p. 579) and turns to-
wards the N.W. — 217 M. Forsyth, with the flourishing Monroe
Female College; 233 M. Barne^ille. — 251 M. Griffin (Nelms Ho.,
$2), with 6857 inhah. and large cotton-mills (towels, etc.). Near
Griffin is the Georgia Experimental Farm. A line diverges here to
the left for Carrollton. — 267 M. Lovejoy; 281 M. Forest; 288 M.
East Point,- 290 M. Fort McPherson (p. 572; seen to the left).
295 M. Atlanta, see p. 571.
103. From New York to Florida.
a. Yik Atlantic Coast Line.
Railway to (1012 M.) /acAso»j;i»e in 252/3-36V4 hrs. (fare $26.30; sleeper
$6.50); to (1049 M.) St. Augustine in 263/4-383/4 hrs. (fare $30.40; sleeper
$7); to (1251 M.) Tampa in 88V4-47 hrs. (fare $35.45; sleeper $8.50). The
'New York & Florida Special', a vestibuled through-train similar to that
described at p. 229, runs in winter only.
Florida, occupying the peninsula in the extreme S.E. corner of the
United States, was the first portion of North America colonized by Europeans
(comp. pp. 478, 616) and was named by its Spanish discoverers (1512) be-
cause first seen on Easter Sunday C-Pascua Florida''). Its mild and equable
winter climate has made it a favourite resort of invalids and others who
wish to escape the rigours of the North, while the beauties of its luxuriant
semi-tropical vegetation and its excellent opportunities for shooting and
fishing are additional attractions. The game on land includes deer, bears,
pumas (Felis concolor), wild -cats, wild turkeys, and numerous other
birds, while the fishing for tarpon (Megalops thrissoides), the largest and
gamiest of game-fish (sometimes 200 lbs. in weight), has its headquarters
in this state (comp. pp. 621, 627). The orange is believed to have been
introduced by the Spaniards, and about 5 million boxes (ca. 175 to a box)
were annually produced before the severe frosts of 1894, 1895, and 1899
killed most of the trees. The yield sank to a few hundred thousand
boxes; but the groves have generally been replanted. In the S. part of
the State, especially on the E. coast, large quantities of pineapples are
now profitably raised. Strawberries and vegetables are also extensively
produced for early shipment to northern markets. Tobacco, cotton (in-
cluding the valuable 'sea-island cotton', p. 610), rice, maize, oats, and sugar-
cane are also grown, and extensive and valuable beds of phosphates are
worked. About three-fourths of the State, exclusive of swamps, prairies,
and hardwood timber, is covered by pine-forests ; and the lumber industry
612 Route 103. THOMASVILLE. From New York
is extensive. Sponge and turtle fishing are other sources of wealth. The
S. portion of the State is occupied by the Everglades, which may be de-
scribed as a huge shallow lake, 1-6 ft. deep and 8000 sq. M. in extent, filled
with low-lying islands surrounded by clear water that abounds in fish.
A remnant of the Seminole Indians still linger here, but the district is
without the pale of the ordinary tourist.
•The peninsula of Florida affords the most distinct field, in a physio-
graphic sense, of any part of N. America. Including the N. portion of
the State, it has a length of about 600 M., an average width of near
100 M. , and a total area greater than that of New York, and nearly as
great as that of New England. In all this great realm the maximum height
above the level of the sea does not exceed about 400ft. The whole of the
soil is composed of materials recently brought together on the sea floor.
About one fourth of the soil area is limy, due to the coral rock which
underlies it. The remainder is nearly pure sand of a rather infertile
nature. All the soil owes its value in the main to the admirable climate
which the region enjoys ('Nature and Man in America', by N. S. Shaler).
The Season to visit Florida is from Dec. to April, when all the hotels
are open and everything is seen to advantage. The communication with
the North is excellent fcomp. pp. 611, 613, 614), and the hotels at the
chief resorts are unsurpassed in the United States. Invalids should not
visit Florida without medical advice, and all should remember that the
climate varies considerably in different parts of the State. Clothing of
medium thickness will be found most suitable, though it is advisable to be
prepared for occasional great heat as well as for some really cold weather.
Dust-coats will be found useful. Walking Excursions are not recommended,
and laost of the roads are too sandy for pleasurable Driving. Motoring on the
hard sand-beaches has lately become a favourite pastime (comp. p. 618).
British anglers should consult F. 6. AflaWs 'Sunshine and Sport in Florida
and the West Indies' (1907).
From New York to (228 M.) Washington (by tte Pennsylvania
R.R.), seeRR. 16 a, 25, & 27a; fiom Washington to (342 M.) Rich-
mond., see R. 88 ; from Riclmiond to (732 M.) Ashley Junction, see
R. 98a (the 'Florida Special' does not run into Charleston); from
Ashley Junction to (841 M.) Savannah, see R. 101 a.
From Savannah we run towards the S.W. The district traversed
is rather featureless, but the traveller from the N. will be interested
in the 'Spanish Bayonets' (Yucca filamentosa) and other vegetable
evidence of a Southern clime. Near (858 M.) Way's we cross the
Ogeechee, and beyond (901 M.) Johnston the Altamaha. At (898 M.)
Jesup we intersect the line from Atlanta to Brunswick (see p. 579).
938 M. Waycross is a junction of some importance, lines run-
ning hence to Dupont (see below), Jacksonville (p. 614), Brunswick
(p. 579), and Albany. Numerous pear-orchards.
Fkoji Waycross to Dupont. 34 M.. railway in ^/i-V-/2 hr. From Dupont
the Atlantic Coast Line System extends to the W. and N.W. to (70 M.)
Thomasville (see below) and (280 M.) Montgomery (p. 573), while to the S.
it runs to Live Oak (p. 630), High Springs., Lakeland., and (296 M.) Tampa
(p. 627). — Thomasville (250ft.; Mitchell Ho.. 3 2; Masury Hotel, R. $1,
both open all the year), is a favourite winter-resort on a plateau covered
with pine - forests. Pop. (19(X)) 5322. Its attractions include numerous
walks and drives (Glen Arvern, Paradise Park, etc.), shooting, an opera
house, and comfortable hotels. It is supplied with water by an artesian
well 1900 ft. in depth. Bound the town are numerous orchards of the
'Le Conte' pear.
From Waycross our line runs to the S.E. Beyond (971 M.)
Folkston we cross the St. Mary's River and enter Florida ('Everglade
to Florida. CAMDEN. 103. Route. 613
State'). At (993 M.) Callahan we cross the Seaboard Air Line from
Fernandina (p. 615) to Tampa and Cedar Key (R. 107c).
1012 M. Jacksonville, see p. 614. Hence to (1049 M.) St. Au-
gustine and (1378 M.) Miami, see p. 615; to (1251 M.) Tampa and
(1260 M.) Port Tampa, see R. 107 a.
b. Via, Southern Railway.
Railway to (1023 M.) Jacksonville in 262/3-341/4 hrs., to (1058 M.) St.
Augustine in 273/4-36 hrs., to (1261 M.) Tampa in 41-44 hrs. (fares as at p. 611).
The 'Florida Limited' leaves New York at 12.10 p.m.
From New York to (228 M.) Washington, see R. 27; thence to
(609 M.) Charlotte, see R. 91a; thence to (718 M.) Columbia, see
pp. 602, 603; thence to (871 M.) Savannah, see p. 608.
Beyond Savannah this route is the same as that just described,
except that the Southern Railway trains do not run via Waycross
but proceed direct by the 'Jesup Short Line' from (927 M.) Jesup
to (980 M.) FoVkston and so to (1023 M.) Jacksonville (p. 614).
c. Vi& Seaboard Air Line.
Railway to (981 M.) Jacksonvilleva. 25V3-333/4 hrs., to (1018 M.) St. Augvstine
in 26V2-36 hrs., to (1193 M.) Tampa in 42V3-43V2 hrs. (fares as at p. 611).
The 'Year Round Limited' leaves New York at 1.25 p.m.
From New York to (228 M.) Washington, see R. 27; thence to
(344 M.) Richmond, see R. 88 ; thence to (598 M.) Hamlet, see R. 91 c.
At Hamlet we diverge from the New Orleans line and soon enter
South Carolina. — 614 M. Cheraw; 642 M. McBee; 649 M. Bethune.
— 669 M. Camden (^220 ft. ; Hobkirk Inn, * Court Inn, from $ 3, these
two open in winter only; * Kirkwood, at Camden Heights, from $3),
a popular and bracing winter-resort among the pines.
Farther on we cross the Catawba. — 702 M. Columbia, seep. 603.
"We here pass from Eastern to Central time (p. xivl. The line now
runs due S. 718 M. (?a5«on ,• 729 M. Woodford. At (7 63 M.) Denmark
we cross a line from Aiken to Charleston. 763 M. Olar; 779 M.
Fairfax; 786 M. Qifford. Beyond (803 M.) Garnett we cross the
Savannah and enter Georgia (p. 571).
844 M. Savannah, see p. 608. — We continue to run towards
the S. At (855 M.) Burroughs we cross the Ogeechee and the Atlantic
Coast Line (R. 103 a). Beyond (886 M.) Darien Junction (for Darien,
with a Brit, vice-consul), we cross the Altamaha. At (903 M.) Everett
we intersect the line from Atlanta to Brunswick (see p. 579).
Beyond (945 M.) Kingsland we cross the St. Mary's River and enter
Florida (p. 612). — 958 M. Yulee is the junction of the line from
Fernandina (p. 615) to Baldwin, Tampa, and Cedar Key (R. 107c).
981 M. Jacksonville, see p. 614. Hence to (1018 M.) ,Sf . Augustine,
see p. 615 ; to (1193 M.) Tampa, see R. 107c.
614 Route 103. JACKSONVILLE.
d. By Steamer.
There are various combinations for a sea-voyage on the way from
New York to Florida.
Steamers of the Clyde Steamship Co. run thrice weekly (or oftener) from
New York (Pier 36, N. River) to Charleston (fare $ 20] and JacksonvilU
(21/2-3 days; fare $25).
A steamer of the Mallory Line plies every Frid. at midday from New
York (Pier 15, E, River) to Brunswick (p. 579; 60 hrs. ; fare §20). From
Brunswick a steamer of the Cumherland ('inside') Route runs in connec-
tion with the New York boats to Fernandina (p. 615; 31/2 days; through-
fare $ 21.15). Jacksonville is l^/g hr. from Fernandina by railway (see
p. 615) and 8'/2-4 hrs. from Brunswick via Everett (p. 579; through-fare
$ 22.25).
Steamers of the Ocean Steamship Co. leave New York (Pier 35, N. River)
3-4 times weekly for Savannah (50 hrs.; fare $20, to Jacksonville §25),
and Boston (Lewis Wharf) twice weekly for the same port (60 hrs. ; 3 22,
to Jacksonville $27). From Savannah to Jacksonville by railway, see
RR. i03a, 103b, 103c.
Steamers of the Merchants and Miners Transportation Co. run thrice
weekly from Baltimore (foot of West Falls Ave.) and twice weekly from
Philadelphia to Savannah (50 hrs.; fare $15, from New York $18.80', from
Boston $ 22). From Savannah to Jacksonville by railway as above (through-
fare from Baltimore $20.65, from New York $24.45).
A steamer of the Old Dommow Xme leaves New York (Pier 26, N. River)
every week-day for Norfolk (p. 561 ; 19-20 hrs. ; $ 6V2), whence we may pro-
ceed to the S. by the Seaboard Air Line via Norlina (p. 580), by the At-
lantic Coast Line via Rocky Mount (p. 602), or by the Southern Railway
^eomp. p. 575).
Jacksonville. — Aeagon Hotei,, Windsok, from $3; Gkaiid "View,
Duval, from S 2V2 ; Roseland, $ 2. — Boarding Houses., $ 6-12 per week.
Furnished Rooms, $ 21/2-6 per week.
Electeic Teamwats run through the chief streets and to the suburbs. —
Cab from the stations or wharves to the hotel, 25 c. each pers. ; each trunk 25 c.
Steamers ply up the St. John''s River (p. 623) and to Mayport, Charleston.,
New York, Boston, etc. — Small Boats, at the foot of Market St., 25 c. per hr
Bbitish Vice-Consul, Mr. Edward Sudlow. — Post Office, Hogan St.,
corner of Forsyth St.
Jacksonville, the commercial metropolis of Florida (51,865 in-
hab. in 1905), situated on the left bank of the St. John's River, 22 M.
from its mouth, was founded in 1822 and named after Gen. Andrew
Jackson. It is much frequented by visitors from the N. on account
of its dry and equable winter-climate (mean winter temp. 55° Fahr.)
but offers comparatively little of interest to the passing tourist, who
will probably regard it merely as a stage on the way to St. Augustine
and the more picturesque parts of Florida. It carries on a large
trade in fruit, timber, and grain, and has some manufactures. The
chief business-streets are Bay Street and Forsyth Street, parallel with
the river, and Laura Street and Main Street, at right angles to it.
The residence-streets are generally shaded with bitter-orange and
other trees. The chief streets are paved with vitrilied brick.
Pleasant drives may be enjoyed on the shell-roads to the N. and
in the Riverside suburb (S.W.). Good views of the city and river
are enjoyed from the Viaduct, which leads from Bay St. to River-
Wafner WDebesGeog^Eslab^L.-ipzig
ST. AUGUSTINE. 104. Route. 615
side Ave., and from the ferry plying from tke foot of Newnan St.
to S. Jacksonville. A Confederate Monument was nnveiled in 1898
in St. James Park. A visit may be paid to the Florida Ostrich Farm.
From Jacksonville to Feenandina, 36 M., railway in li/ztr. (fare $ 1.10).
— Fernandina (Albemarle, Florida, from $2; Brit, vice-consnl, Mr. E. 7.
Mcholl), a seaport with (1905) 4959 inhab., sitnated on the "W. side of
Amelia Island, at the mouth of the Amelia River, wa,a settled by the Spaniards
in 1632. It has a fine harbour and carries on a trade in phosphates, naval
stores, and timber, while steamers ply to Brunswick (see p. 579), European
ports, etc. Its population is much increased in winter by visitors from
the N. A good shell-road leads to (2 M.) Amelia Beach, a fine expanse
for bathing and driving. Excursions are often made to Cumberland Island
(p. 610). — From Fernandina to Baldwin, Tampa, and Cedar Key, see R. 107c.
From Jacksonville to Maypokt, 26 M., Florida East Coast Railway
(reached by ferry from foot of Newnan St.) in 1 hr. (fare 65 c). — 18 M.
Pablo Beach {Hotel Pablo, Ocean View, from $ 2), one of the most popular
summer and sea-bathing resorts in Florida, has a splendid beach and the
usual seaside attractions. — 20 M. Atlantic Beach {Continental, from $ 2V2),
another similar resort. — 26 M. Mayport, at the mouth of the St. John's
River. This point may also be reached by steamer from Jacksonville or by
driving along the beach from Pablo Beach. From Mayport we may visit
Fort George Island by small boat.
From Jacksonville to St. Augustine, Miami, and Key West, see below ;
to Enterprise dJid. Palm Beach, see pp. 620, 621; up the St. John's River, see
p. 623; to Pensacola and JVew Orleans, see R. 108; to Tampa, see R. 107.
104. From Jacksonville to St. Augustine, Miami,
and Key West.
Comp. Map, p. 611.
524 M. Florida East Coast Railway to (37 M.) St. Augustine in l-lV4br.
(fare $ 1.25), to (366 M.) Miami in 11-13 hrs. (fare $ 11), and to (478 M.)
KnighVi Key Dock in 16-18 hrs. (fare $ 15.20). Steamer of the Peninsular
Occidental Go. from Knighfs Key Dock to (46 M.) Key West in 4 hrs. (fare
$4.60; thyough-fare $18.90).
Jacksonville, see p. 614. The train crosses the St. John's River
by a steel bridge, 1320 ft. long, and traverses the suburb of South
Jacksonville. Farther on we see a few orange groves, bnt most of
the jonmey for 150 M. passes through pine woods. Between (13 M.)
Greenland and (16 M.) Bayard we cross the Arlington.
37 M. St. Augustine. — Hotel Omnibuses and Carriages at the station,
3/4 M. from the town (25 c; trunk 25 c). — *Hotel Ponce de Leon (PI. a;
B, 4), from $5; *Alcazae (PI. b; B, 4), from § 4; Alcazab Annex (formerly
the Cordova; PI. c, B 4), E. P., these owned by the Florida East Hotel Co.;
St. George (PI. f; B, 4), Magnolia (PI. d; B. 3), from $ 3; Mabion (PI. i;
B, 4), Florida Ho. (PI. e; B, 3), Buckingham (PI. h; B, 4), Granada (PI. g;
B, 4), Valencia, Barcelona, from $ 2. All the hotels are open in winter
only. — Boarding Houses, $ 8-15 per week. — Casino, attached to the
Alcazar Hotel, with Turkish, electric, and other baths.
Carriages $1V2-3 per hr., $4-5 per day; Saddle Horses $1 and $3. —
Boat, with attendant, from 25 c. per hr., $2-5 per day (Central Wharf),
Post Office (PI. B, 4), Plaza de la Constitucion (open 8-6).
St. Augustine (accent on first syllable), one of the most pictur-
esque and interesting little cities in America, lies on the Atlantic
coast near the S. end of a narrow peninsula formed by the Matanzas
616 Route 104. ST. AUGUSTINE. From Jachsonoitte
and St. Sebastian Rivers, and opposite Anastasia Island. The sur-
ronnding country is flat, sandy, and overgrown witli palmetto scrub.
The older streets are aU very narrow ; the old Spanish houses are
built of 'coquina' (a kind of shell limestone), and some of them have
overhanging balconies. The gardens and squares are full of palmet-
toes, Spanish daggers, orange and citron trees, date palms, magno-
lias, and bananas. The permanent population of St. Augustine is
(1905) 5121, but this is increased to at least 10,000 during winter.
The climate is temperate and equable, the mean temperature for
the year being about 70°, for winter 58°.
In 1512 the Spaniard Ponce de Leon landed near the Indian town of
Seloy (on or near tlie site of St. Augustine), in searcli of the 'Fountain of
Youth'' (comp. p. 626), but, not finding it, re-embarked. Half- a- century later
(1564) French Huguenots, under Rene de Laudonniere, landed near the
same spot, but soon migrated to the St. John's Eiver. The settlement of
a Protestant colony within his trans-Oceanic dominions aroused the indig-
nation of Philip II. of Spain, who forthwith sent out an expedition under
Don Pedro Menendez de Avila to exterminate the invaders. Menendez landed
at Seloy on Sept. 8th, 1565, found the Indians friendly, and erected the fort of
San Agustin. St. Augustine is thus one of the oldest permanent settlements
of Europeans within the territories of the United States (comp. p. 478).
The Spaniards lost no time in carrying out the object of their coming
by destroying the French Fort Caroline and massacring its inhabitants.
During the next century St. Augustine led a very chequered existence. It
was plundered by Sir Francis Drake in 1586 and by Capt. John Davis in
1665, and it was attacked on other occasions by the Indians, French, Ca-
rolinians, and Georgians (p. 609). In 1763 St. Augustine, with the rest of
Florida, was yielded to Great Britain, but it was restored to Spain twenty
years later. Under the British it contained about 290 householders and
900 negroes. In 1821 Florida was ceded to the United States, and from
this time may be dated St. Augustine's fame as a winter-resort, though it
was not till after the termination of the troubles with the Seminole Indians
(1842) that any large number of Northern visitors found their way hither.
There are now few persons of Spanish descent in St. Augustine, all
having left the city on the British or American occupation i but most of
the present residents are descended from the Greeks and Minofcans who
moved from New Smyrna to St. Augustine in 1770 (see p. 619). Many of
the older and more picturesque features of the place are disappearing,
though a laudable effort has been made to erect new buildings in a style
in harmony with the local atmosphere and traditions.
In the centre of the city is the *Plaza de la Constitucion
(PL B, 4), extending on the E. to the sea-wall and the Matanzas,
beyond which is seen the Island of Anastasia (p. 618).
The Monument in the centre of the square was erected in honour of
the Spanish Liberal constitution of 1812, from which it takes its name.
On the E. side is the Old Market, erroneously known as the Slave Market.
On the N. side is a Confederate War Monument. The Roman Catholic
Cathedral., also on the N. side, was rebuilt on an enlarged scale after the
fire of 1887. To the W. is the Post Office-, to the S. the Episcopal Church.
Along the S. side of the Plaza runs the Alameda (King St.),
which brings us at once to a group of handsome modern buildings in
a Spanish or Moorish style (PI. B, 4). To the right is the huge Ponce
de Leon Hotel (properly pron. 'Ponthe de Leon', but usually called
'Pons dee Leeon'), to the left the Alcazar Annex, the Alcazar, and
the Villa Zorayda, all adjoined by beautiful semi-tropical gardens.
to Key West ST. AUGUSTINE. 104. Route. 617
The *Ponce de Leon (PI. a), designed by Carrere & Hastings in the style
of the Spanish Renaissance, is 380 ft. wide (facade) and 520 ft. long and en-
closes a large open court. The towers are 165 ft. high (*View). It is huilt of
concrete, with red-tiled roofs and brick and terracotta details. The scheme
of colour is very effective. The interior of the Central Dome or Rotunda,
with its four galleries, is elaborately adorned with marble, carved oak,
and allegorical paintings. The Dining Room, 150 ft. long and 90 ft. wide,
is also embellished with scenes from the history of Florida, Spanish pro-
verbs, etc. — The Alcazar (PI. b), opposite the Ponce de Leon, is by the
same architects and also in the Spanish style. The Casino (p. 615) includes
a large '^Swimming Bath, supplied from a sulphurous artesian well. — The
-Alcazar Annex or Gdrdova Hotel (PI. c; formerly the Gasa Monica), in a
Hispano-Moorish style, was designed and built by Mr. Franklin W. Smith
(see below and p. 121), who in this building and the Villa Zorayda (see
below) first demonstrated the adaptability of the monolithic concrete archi-
tecture to modern buildings. It includes a fine sun-parlour, 108 ft. long. —
The ''Villa Zorayda, the earliest of this group of buildings, was erected
by Mr. Smith in 1883. It is in a Moorish style, with many suggestions
from the Alhambra.
*St. Geoege Street (Pl.B, 3, 4), leading to the N. from the N.W.
corner of the Plaza, is one of the quaintest and most picturesque
streets in the city. It passes the Municipal Buildings and ends
at the remains of the old *City Gate (PI. B, 3), consisting of two
pillars, 20 ft. high, adjoined by fragments of coquina wall. On the
inner side of the buttresses are two stone sentry boxes. The gate
dates from the Spanish period, but its exact age is unknown. Out-
side the gate (to the left) is what is known (without justification) as
the old Huguenot Graveyard. We, however, turn to the right, to
visit *rort Marion (PI. B, 3), the most interesting relic of the
ancient city, which lies on the Matanzas, at the N. end of the sea-
wall (open free, 10-4; fee to the sergeant who acts as cicerone).
Menendez (p. 616) erected a wooden fort (San Juan dePinos) on or near
this spot. The present fort, which is made of coquina, was building for
nearly 100 years and was finished in 1756. The Spaniards named it San Marco,
and it received its present name in 1821. The fort is laid out on the
Vauban system, with bastions at the four chief angles, each protected by
a watch-tower, and is surrounded by a moat and glacis. We enter by a
drawbridge, over each end of which are the Spanish coat-of-arms and a
Spanish inscription. Among the special features pointed out in the in-
terior are the Chapel, the Dungeon, and the casemate from which the
Seminole chief Coacoochee, who was confined here with Osceola (p. 606),
made his escape during the Seminole War (1835-42).
The Sea Wall (PI. B, 3, 4), beginning at the water-battery of
the fort and extending 3/^ M. to the S., affords a fine promenade
(views). It is made of coquina, capped with granite, and dates from
1835-42. — At the S. end of the sea-wall are the St. Francis Barracks
(PI. B, 4), named from their occupying the site of the old Convent of
St. Francis, some of the coquina walls of which are incorporated
in the present structure. Guard-mount and dress-parade, with mili-
tary music, attract many visitors. — A little farther S. is the Military
Cemetery (PI. B , 5) , containing memorials of 'Dade's Command'
(p. 629) and other soldiers who feU in the Seminole War (order of
adm. necessary from the adjutant of the post). — A little to the S.
is the Flagler Hospital (PI. B, 5). — In St. Francis St., opposite the
Babdekbb's United States. 4th Edit. 39
618 Route 104. ORMOND. From Jacksorwille
barracks, is what is said, somewliat arbitrarily, to be the Oldest House
in the United States (adm. 25 c), built by the Hnguenots (p. 616) in
1564, occupied by Franciscan monks in 1565-80, and afterwards
in possession of the same family from 1590 to 1882. It has been
'restored' and contains a collection of relics connected with the history
of Florida.
Among the other buildings of interest in St. Augustine are the
Public Library, Grace Church (Meth. Epis.j PI. B, 3), by Carrere
& Hastings, at the corner of Cordova St. and Carrera St., and the
elaborate Memorial Presbyterian Church (PI. A, 3), not far from the
railway-station, designed, by the same architects and erected by Mr.
H. M. Flagler in memory of his daughter. — The museum of the
St. Augustine Institute of Natural Science (open to visitors) occupies
an interesting old building at the corner of Treasury and Marine Sts.
(PL B, 3).
The harbour of St. Augustine is admirably adapted for Rowing and
Sailing, and excursions may be made to Matanzas (to the S.), up the North
River, etc. In the ocean, 31/2 M. from Matanzas, is a hot Sulphur Spring.
Among the points of interest on the island of Anastasia (bridge from
the foot of Eang St. ; electric railway from the E. E. Depot, PI. A, 4) are
the South Beach (5 M. ; comp. PI. D, 3), the Lighthouse, and the old Coquina
Quarries. North Beach is a favourite driving and riding resort. Fair
sea-fishing (sea-bass, etc.) may be obtained here and at Matanzas. The
St. Augustine Golf Course, beyond the old City Gate, has nine holes.
Leaving St. Augustine, the train crosses the sluggish and marshy
St. Sebastian River and runs to the S.W., past (49 M.) Armstrong
and (54 M.) Hastings (noted for its fine crops of potatoes), to (62 M.)
East Palatka, on the bank of the St. John's.
From East Palatka a branch runs to (3 M.) PalatTca (see p. 624). Pass-
engers also change cars here for (4 M.) San Mateo, on the St. John's.
Beyond East Palatka the train turns at right angles to its former
course and heads to the S.E., toward the coast, traversing a mono-
tonous region of pine-trees and palmetto-scrub. Near (82 M.) Espa-
nola the first lake of the route appears. A little short of Ormond we
cross the Tomolca Riverain the upper waters of which alligators abound.
104 M. Ormond (^Ormond, open in winter only, from $ 5; Bretton
Inn, from $ 3 ; Mildred Villa, Granada, $ 2), a popular winter-resort
on the Halifax River and the ocean beach. The broad beach, as
smooth and as hard as a floor, affording an unsurpassed course for
driving and bicycling, stretches N. and S. for 30 M. without a break.
It is a favourite resort for automobile racing, and a mile is said to
have been covered here in 28^/5 sec. (1906), 2 M. in 58^/5 seconds
(chief races about March). The 'sand-sailers' resemble ice-yachts
(p. 85) on wheels. Inland are numerous drives, chiefly through
dense 'hammock' (thick forest or jungle growth). In the midst of the
hammock to the W. of the town are the ruins of an old sugar-mill
reputed to have been built by Spaniards in the 16th century.
Beyond Buckhead Bluff, on the Tomoka, is a row of cabbage
to Key West. INDIAN RIVER. 104. Route, 619
palmettoes , marking the line of the 'King's Road', which was huilt
in the 18th century by the English from St. Mary's (Georgia) for
400 M. to the S., through Florida. The stretch of this road extending
from Ormond to St. Angustine and (50 M.) Jacksonville has recently
been made passable for automobiles. Excellent fishing and shooting;
boating on the Halifax, 24 M. long and 1/2 M. wide , and np the
Tomoka (steam-launches).
110 M. Daytona (Colonnades, $ 3-4; Clarendon, burned down
in 1909, these at Seabreeze or East Daytona; Bidgewood, Despland,
from $ 3 ; Palmetto, $ 3 ; Grand Atlantic, ParTcinson Ho., from $ 21/2 ;
Seaside Inn, at Goodall, from $ 2^/2) is another favourite resort on the
Halifax River, with (1905) 2200 inhab., fine trees, a good beach,
a pier, and the winter-homes of many wealthy Northerners. It was
originally a New England settlement. A beautiful driveway leads
to Ormond, and the return may be made on the hard ocean-beach
(p. 618). — 115 M. Port Orange. The pine-forests through which
we have been travelling grow sparser and the palmetto-scrub grows
thicker. At mile-post 119 the train crosses a broad inlet from the
Halifax.
125 M. New Smyrna (^Ocean Ho., from $ 3), on the Indian River
North, frequented by sportsmen, was founded in 1769 by a colony
of 1500 Minorcans and Greeks established for the culture of indigo
and sugar by an Englishman named Turubull (see p. 616). An
ancient ruin, part of the stone walls of which are standing, is
believed by many antiquarians to be the remains of a chapel built
by men with Columbus on his second voyage, in 1496 or 1497.
Shell mounds and other prehistoric remains have been found. Good
fishing, shooting, and boating. On the peninsula opposite New
Smyrna is Coronado Beach, a popular all-the-year-round resort.
Feom New Smtena to Okange City Junction, 27 M., railway in 1 hr, —
21 M. Lake Helen (Harlan Hotel, $ 3; is the seat of the 'Southern Cassadaga
Spiritualists' assembly. — 26 M. Orange City. — 27 M. Orange City Junction,
connecting with the Atlantic Coast Ry. (see p. 626).
Beyond (136 M.) Oak Hill we catch on the left the first glimpse
of the Indian River, parallel with which, and frequently within
sight, the line runs for the next 143 M. A vast marsh and a forest
of cabbage palmettoes are traversed, and then for several miles
the track skirts the river, here a broad bay, the farther shore dimly
discernible.
The Indian River, 160 M. in length from its head to the S. end at
Jupiter Inlet, is the most important of the so-called 'rivers', hut really
long narrow sounds or lagoons, that run parallel with the Atlantic Ocean
nearly all the way from the mouth of the St. John's to Biscayne Bay.
They are separated from the ocean by a narrow strip of land, broken by
a few inlets, and vary in width from 50 yds. to about 6 M. The Matamas
(p. 615), the Halifax (p. 618), Indian River North (see above), and Lake Worth
(p. 621) all belong to this series of lagoons. If the sounds were continuous,
there would be only one river some 310 M. in length. Their continuity
is broken at various places, the intervals in which no water-way exists
ranging in length from about 600 yards to 24 M. Across some of the shorter
39*
620 Boute 104. ROCKLEDGrE. From Jacksonville
isthmuses, as well as from Lake Worth to Biscayne Bay, canals have been
constructed, while others are now in progress (see below). The useful-
ness of the sounds for shipping, however, is limited by their shallowness.
The greatest depth does not much exceed 12 ft., while the minimum depth
(after the under-noted improvements are completed) will be about 5 or
6 ft. The water of these lagoons is salt, greatly freshened by the rivers
that flow into them.
The banks of the Indian River are lined with luxuriant semi-tropical
vegetation, which affords cover to large and small game, including bears,
pumas (p. 611), wild-eats, deer, and turkeys, while the water teems with
fish. The water is often highly phosphorescent at night. The Indian River
oranges (groves on the W. shore) are celebrated.
An inside route, much frequented by motor-boats, now extends from
St. Augustine to Miami. It leads down the Matanzas River (p. 615), then
through a canal (16 M. long) to the head of the Halifax River (p. 618),
and thence through that river and the Mosquito Lagoon (or Lower Halifax).
This lagoon is cunnected with the Indian River by a canal, IV2 M. long,
and the river itself has been dredged and deepened. Beyond Jupiter Inlet
(p. 621) the route proceeds through the Lake Worth Creek (straightened) and
a canal to Lake Worth (p. 621), which is entered about 10 M. to the N. of
Falm Beach (p. 621) To the S. of L;ike Worth the water-way consists of
about 40 M. of canals and improved channels, passing through Hillsborough
and Neio River Sounds and finally entering Biscayne Bay (p. 622), about
16 M. to the N. of Miami (p. 622).
154 M. TitusviUe {Indian River, from $ 21/2), with (1905) 950 in-
hab. and a considerable flsli and oyster trade, is practically at the
head of the Indian River (p. 619) and is the usual starting-point
of boating parties. It is also the junction of a line to Sanford.
Fkom Titusville to Sanfobd, 47 M., Florida East Coast Railway in
21/2-3 hrs. (fare 3 1.40). This line runs towards the N.W., passing several
small stations, 36 M. Enterprise (Brock Ho.^ $21/2), on the N. bank of
Lake Monroe, opposite Sanford (p. 626), has some fame as a winter-resort.
At (40 M.) Enterprise Junction we join the Atlantic Coast Line (p. 626). —
47 M. Sanford, see p. 626.
169 M. City Point; 173 M. Cocoa (see below).
175 M. Rockledge [Indian River, $3-6; Plaza, New Rock-
ledge , from $ 3 ; White's Cottage, $ 2) , a favourite resort on the
Indian River, is delightfully situated on high ground rising from the
W. bank of the river, here I1/4 M. wide. Beyond lies Merritt's
Island, which is separated from Cocoa Beach or Oceanica, on the
Atlantic, by the Banana River. Coquina rock formation (p. 616) on
the river-bank suggests the name of the place. A shell-road connects
Rockledge with Cocoa. Yachts of all kinds dot the river during the
season; the fishing is excellent, and alligator hunts are frequently
organized. Rockledge is the chief home of the famous Indian River
oranges (comp. above).
For the next 60 M. the line traverses an uninteresting stretch
of white sand, producing scattered pine-trees and abundant scrub
palmetto. The infrequent villages lie between the railway and the
river. — We cross small creeks at (190 M.) Eau Gallic, (194 M.)
Melbourne (Carleton, $ 2 V2-3), and (200 M.) Malabar. In approaching
(215 M.) Sebastian, we cross the Sebastian by a long draw-bridge.
Near (239 M.) St. Lucie is an agricultural settlement of French
aristocrats, formed in 1905 in consequence of the politico-religious
to Key West. PALM BEACH. lOd. Route. 621
trou'bles in France. — 242 M. Fort PiVrce (Fort Pierce Hotel, $21/2)
is a trading point for the Seminole Indians and one of the head-
qnarters of tarpon-fishing (p. 611). We enter the pineapple region
(p. 611). For 15 M. the railway is bordered hy pineapple plantations,
most of them nnprotected, some nnder sheds. The largest plantations
in this neighbourhood are at (254 M.) Eden and (257 M.) Jensen. —
Between Jensen and (261 M.) Stuart the line cnrves away from
the Indian Pdver and crosses the broad estnary of the St. Lucie
River. — At (283 M.) West Jupiter we cross the Jupiter River, with
a view (left) of Jnpiter lighthouse, the Nassau (p. 622) cable-
station, Jupiter Inlet, the mouth of Indian River, and breakers on
the beach.
Jupiter Inlet (good fishing) lies at the S. end of the Indian River and
is protected hy a Lighthouse, the *View from which is very extensive.
About 1 M. to the S. is a U. S. Life-Saving Station. The mangrove thickets
and curious arboreal forms are interesting. The Inlet is connected by a
short canal with Lake Worth (see below).
Beyond West Jupiter the country is tame to (299 M.) West Palm
Beach (Palms, $21/2-4:; Seminole, Holland, $2-3). We cross Lake
Worth on a bridge 1/2 M. long. To the left lies Munyon's Island
(Hotel Hygeia, $ 272-5), recently frequented by Northern visitors.
300 M. Palm Beach. — *Eotal Poinciana Hotel, an immense struc-
ture in the Colonial style, with a frontage of 10(X) ft. and room for 1?00 guests,
from S5; *Pai,m Reach Hotel, with 5(K) beds, from $3; *The Breakers,
with 300 beds. froS? $ 4 ; Hibiscus, from $21/2; also several smaller hotels
and boarding-houses.
Palm Beach, situated on the narrow strip between Lake Worth
(22 M. long and V2-I M. wide) and the Atlantic Ocean, ranks as one
of the most fashionable winter-resorts of the United States, and in
some respects rivals the resorts of the Mediterranean. The season,
extending from Christmas until April 10th, is at its height in March,
when the hotels are crowded. Unlimited wealth has made of the
surroundings of the chief hotels a vast semi-tropical paradise. The
Royal Poinciana (named for a tree with gorgeous flowers, blooming
in summer) and the Palm Beach Hotel face Lake Worth, while the
Breakers (with its cottages), with which they are connected by a wide
avenue of palms, 1/2 M. long, faces the ocean. The grounds are filled
with bearing cocoanut-trees, palms of many varieties, and countless
foliage and flowering plants and shrubs, and are adjoined by gardens
in which bananas, guavas, grape-fruit, avocado pears, custard apples,
maumee apples, mangoes, and pawpaws come to maturity. The cupola
of the Poinciana yields an entrancing view (esp. at sunset), including
the entire length of Lake Worth, with the villas on its banks, the
narrow peninsula, clad in tropical verdure, between the lake and the
ocean, the Atlantic stretching away to the E. horizon, and the
mysterious Everglades (p. 612) on the W. Near the Poinciana is
Whitehall, the residence of Mr. H. M. Flagler (p. 618), to whose
enterprise is due the wonderful railway across the Keys (p. 622).
Adjoining the Palm Beach Hotel is the Pavilion, with a large swim-
622 Route 104. MIAMI. From Jacksonville
ming pool. A long pier extending into the ocean affords opportunities
for fishing (tarpon, etc.). Lake Worth is also a favonrite yachting
rendezYons, and a famous motor-hoat regatta is held here. The
Palm Beach Golf Links (18 holes) are deservedly popular. Bicycle-
chairs and 'rickshaws' are much in vogue for locomotion.
Leaving Palm Beach, the train re-crosses Lake Worth and turns
to the S. Pineapple plantations are occasionally passed. The soil
is light sand , almost pure v^hite. 312 M. Boynton (The Boynton,
$ 2-3) ; 341 M. Fort Lauderdale, on the N. bank of the New River. —
351 M. Hallandale, with great fields of garden truck, particularly
tomatoes. Bananas thrive. — 357 M. Arch Creek, with a natural
bridge of solid coquina rock (p. 616); 362 M. Lemon City.
366 M. Miami. — Royal Palm Hotel, occupying the point of land
between the Miami River and the Bay and surrounded by an immense
grove of cocoanut-trees, from $ 5, sometimes crowded ; Halcyon Hall,
from $ 4 ; Ieoquois, *San Caelos, Gealyn House, from $ 21/2.— Omnibus 25 c.
Miami is one of the oldest towns in the State. It was organized as
a modern city in 1896,and in 1900 had a population of 1680, which
number is greatly enlarged during the winter tourist season. Miami
is situated on the N. bank of the Miami River, where it enters Bis-
cayne Bay, a large sheet of clear salt water, separated from the ocean
by the first of the long chain of Florida Keys. The bay has been
dredged and improved by the U. S. Governmenl^nd the harbour
now admits vessels of considerable size. Miami has a balmy climate
and dense tropical vegetation, and the soil produces a great variety
of tropical and semi-tropical fruits and vegetables. The Fishing is
good. The Golf Links are very flat. An interesting excursion may
be made by boat up the Miami River to the beginning of the Ever-
glades (p. 612), the home of the Seminole Indians who often paddle
down to the town to sell baskets, etc.
The objects of interest at both Miami and Palm Beach include
collections of alligators and crocodiles.
The Peninsular d: Occidental Steamship Co. runs a steamer tri-weekly
in winter from Miami to (185 M.) Nassau (Colonial, from $ 5 ; Royal Vic-
toria, from $ 4), in the Bahama Islands (15 hrs. ; fare $ 15, return - fare
$ 26, incl. berth and meals).
Beyond Miami the line turns inland (W.). 371 M. Cocoanut Grove
(Peacock Inn, $21/2-31/2)? a boating, fishing, and shooting resort on
Biscayne Bay. Adjacent are the well-known Adirondack-Florida
School and the home of Mr. Kirk Munroe. — 382 M. Perrine is the
station for Cutler (Richmond, $3), on Biscayne Bay, witMn easy
reach of the Everglades (p. 612) ; 394 M. Homestead; 409 M. Ma-
nata. At (416 M.) Jewfish the train leaves the mainland and crosses
a drawbridge over Card Sound, leading to Key Largo, the largest
of the 'Keys' (30 M. long ; see below).
From this point on the construction of the railway is of great interest.
It follows the line of the so-called 'Keys' (Span. 'Cayos"), or small coralline
islands, which stretch towards the S.W. from the S. extremity of Florida.
The gaps between the different islands are traversed by concrete viaducts,
to Key West. KEY WEST. 104. Route. 623
sometimes several miles in length. The journey is much like a trip at
sea, with the Gulf of Mexico on one side and the Straits of Florida on
the other. The terminus will he at Eei/ West (see l>elow), 524 M. from Jack-
sonville and only 90 M. from Havana (p. 662).
The Keys produce large quantities of pineapples, bananas, and other
fruit and vegetables; hut the natives, who are known as 'Conchs', devote
themselves mainly to the sponge and other fisheries. Ahout fifty of the
Keys are inhahitahle.
Cocoa-nut palms are numerous as we run along the Keys. We
cross narrow inlets at (432 M.) Tavernier and (435 M.) Plantation.
Beyond (460 M.) Islamorada we cross a longer viaduct and bridge,
connecting Upper and Lower Matecumbe Keys. The latter is con-
nected with (458 M.) Long Key by a concrete viaduct, and another
many-arched viaduct (2 M. long) leads thence to (462 M.) Grassy
Key. 472 M. Key Vaca; 475 M. Knight's Key.
478 M. Knight's Key Bock; the present terminus of the line.
Besides the Key West steamer (see below), boats of the P. & O. S. S.
Co. run thrice weekly from Knight s Key Dock to (120 M.) Havana (10 hrs.
fare $ 17.10).
The Key West Steamer runs along the S. side of the Keys,
reaching its destination in ca. 4 hrs.
Key West (Jefferson, from $2; Cripe Hotel, $1V2-2V2; El Po-
laco, Spanish restaurant; Brit, vice-consul, Mr.W. J. H. Taylor;
tramways ; carr. $ 1 per hr.), the future terminus of the Florida East
Coast Railway, is the third city of Florida, containing 20,498 inhab.
in 1905. The name is said to he a corruption of the Spanish Cayo
Hueso ('Bone Island'), which took its rise from the finding of nume-
rous human hones here by the Spanish mariners. Many of the in-
habitants are Cubans, who have established cigar-factories that now
produce 125-150 million cigars annually. Other important indus-
tries are the sponge-fishery, turtle-catching, and deep-sea fishing
(mullet, etc.). The fine harbour is protected by Fort Taylor, built
on a small island, and also by more modem fortifications. A visit
may be paid to the Banyan Tree adjoining the TJ. S. Barracks. Key
West is not so warm as many places to the N, of it (range 50-96 '^ ;
mean for winter ca. 70°), though artificial heat is unused except
for cooking ; and its pure air attracts many winter-visitors. On the
S. Beach is the pleasure-resort named La Brisa.
Steamers ply regularly from Key West to Port Tampa (p. 628), New
Orleans (p. 631), Galveston (p. 594) and New York (p. 11). — The steamer
from Port Tampa to Havana (see p. 628) calls at Key West, whence it
takes ca. 10 hrs. to reach its destination (fare $ I2V2).
Sand Key, 7 M. to the S.S. W. of Key West, is the southernmost point
of the United States and has a Weather Bureau Station.
105. The St. John's River.
Comp. Map, p. 615.
The Steamers of the Clyde's St. John's River Line leave Jacksonville
thrice weekly at 3.30 p.m. for Palatka, Aster, Beresford (Be Land), San/ord
(17 hrs.; fare $3.75, incl. meals and laerth), and Enterprise (18 hrs.; same
fare). Other steamers run to Green Cove Springs, Palatka and Crescent City,
624 Route 105. PALATKA. St. John's Biver.
and Mayport (p. 615; daily). — Travellers who start from St. Augustine
may join the steamer at Palatka (railway from St. Augustine, 28 M., in
IV4-IV2 lir.).
There is no great variety in the scenery of this trip, but visitors to
Florida snould make part of it at least for the sake of the picture it affords
of luxuriant semi-tropical vegetation, with occasional glimpses of alliga-
tors. The St. John's Eiver is about 400 M. long, and its lower course
resembles a series of lakes V2-6 M. wide. Parts of the upper river are
well-nigh choked with water-hyacinths (Eichhornia azurea).
The terms right (r.) and left (1.) in the following route are used with
reference to travellers ascending the river.
Jacksonville, see p. 614. The following are some of the chief
points passed. — 10 M. (r.) Blade Point. — 14 M. (r.) Orange Park
(rail, station). — 15 M. '(1.) Mandarin, formerly the winter-home
of Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe. — 24 M. (r.) Magnolia Point, one
of the highest bluffs on the river. — 241/2 M. (r.) Mouth of Black
Creek, navigable for 8 M. — 25 M. (1.) Remington Park.
28 M. (r.) Magnolia Springs {Hotel, from $ 4; rail, stat.) , a
favourite resort of consumptives, amid pines and orange-groves.
30 M. (r.) Green Cove Springs {Rivercroft, $2V2-6; Riverside,
$2-21/2)5 a favourite resort, with a copious sulphur-spring (78°),
used both for bathing and drinking. A beautiful path leads along
the river to (2 M.) Magnolia. — 38 M. (1.) Hogarth's Landing. —
44 M. (1.) Picolata, an old Spanish settlement. — 49 M. (1.) Tocoi,
the junction of a (disused) railway to (18 M.) St. Augustine (p. 615).
— 63 M. (1.) Orange Mills, with fine orange-groves.
75 M. Palatka {Saratoga, $ 2V2 5 Graham, R. from $ 1 ; Arlington,
$ 2; tramway between railway- station and steamer -landing 5 c.),
the largest town on the St. John's above Jacksonville (3950 inhab.
in 1905), is pleasantly situated and attracts many winter -visitors.
It is a railway-centre of some importance, and is the starting-point
of the small steamers which ascend the Ocklawaha (p. 625) and of
others for Drayton Island (see below).
From Palatka to RocJcledge, Palm Beach, and Miami, see R. 104 5 to San-
ford, see R. 107a; to St. Augustine, seep. 618; io Jacksonville (by railway),
see p. 626. Lines also run hence to Lake City and Macon (pp. 630, 611) and to
Gainesville (p. 628) and Ocala (p. 628).
Above Palatka the vegetation becomes more luxuriant and trop-
ical in character, including cypresses, orange-trees, magnolias, pal-
mettoes, water-oaks (Quercus aquatica), azaleas, vines of all kinds,
etc. The river becomes narrow and winding.
76 M. (1.) Harfs Orange Grove , one of the most productive in
Florida. — 82 M. (1.) Dunn's Creek , up which the Crescent Lake
steamer plies to Crescent City. — At (85 M.) Buffalo Bluff the rail-
way crosses the river (p. 626). — 93 M. (1.) iSatsuma, with fine
orange-groves. — 100 M. (1.) Welaka (McClure Ho., $ 2), on the
site of Indian and Spanish settlements, is nearly opposite the mouth
of the Ocklawaha (p. 625). — 106 M. (r.) Fort Gates. The river
now expands into *Lake George, 12 M. long and 9 M. wide. Dray-
ton Island has fine orange-groves. To the right is the outlet of Lake
OcUawaha River. EUREKA. 106. Route. 625
Kerr. On leaving Lake George we enter another narrow stretch of
river. — 134 M. (1.) Volusia, on the site of an early Spanish mis-
sion, (r.) Astor (p. 628). A little farther on we cross Dexter Lake. —
From (162 M.) Beresford (1.) a short branch-line runs via De Land
Junction to De Land (College Arms, $ 3-5 ; Pntnam, $ 2-3), with the
John B. Stetson University (485 students). — 168 M. (1.) Blue Spring,
with a singular spring. We now reach the most picturesque part of
the river. — 174 M. (r.) Mouth of the Kissimmee River (not to he
confounded with that mentioned at p. 627).
Farther on the steamer passes another railway-bridge and enters
Lake Monroe, 5 M. in diameter, on the S. side of which lies (193 M.)
Sanford (p. 626) and on the N. (198 M.) Enterprise (p. 620).
Above Lake Monroe the St. John's River is navigable for a consider-
able distance by steam-launcbes, and sportsmen and tourists occasionally
go on as far as Lake Harney (guides, etc., obtainable in Sanford).
106. The Ocklawaha River.
Gomp. Map, p. 615.
Steamees of tbe Hart Line leave Palatka on Mon., Wed., & Frid. at
12.30 p.m. in the season for (135 M.) Silver Springs (20 hrs., down stream
15 hra. ; fare $ 7, incl. meals and berth). The steamers, though necessarily
small, are fairly comfortable.
This trip should not be omitted by any visitor to Florida. The **Ock-
lawaha ('dark, crooked water'), issuing from Lake Griffin, near the centre
of Florida, joins the St. John's River (see above) after a course of 280 M.,
of which about 200 M. are navigable by small steamers. It is exceedingly
tortuous, flows nearly aU the way through a vast cypress-swamp, and has
no banks except the tree-trunks rising from the water. The moss-draped
cypresses produce a most weird and picturesque effect, especially when
lighted up by the level rays of the rising or setting sun or by the flaming
pine-knots or electricity used to help navigation at night. Alligators,
snakes, turtles, water-turkeys, herons, egrets, and other birds of brilliant
Southern plumage abound on its banks- No shooting is allowed from the
steamers. The steering-apparatus is interesting. — The trip may also be
made in the reverse direction.
From Palatka to (25 M.) Welaka, see p. 624. Our steamer now
leaves the St. John's River and turns to the right (W.) into the
narrow Ocklawaha. The following are some of the chief landings,
though none are of any size or importance.
32 M. Davenport; 48 M. Blue Spring ; 58 M. Fort Brooke. — At
(59 M.J Orange Springs the Ocklawaha is joined on the right by the
Orange Creek and bends abruptly to the left (S.). — About 5 M.
farther on we pass a double-headed palmetto. — 75 M. lola; 78 M.
Forty Foot Bluff; 87 M. Eureka. — At (88 M.) the *Cypress Gate
we pass between two huge cypresses, barely leaving room for the
steamer. About 7 M. farther on we pass a Twin Cypress (left), where
two trees have grown into one. 101 M. Hell's Half Acre (island);
103 M. Gore's; 104 M. Osceola's Old Field (comp. p. 617); 106 M.
Durisco's. A landing is generally made at (118 M.) Randall's
Orange Grove (oranges, lemons, flgs, and roses).
Baedekeb's United States. 4th Edit. 40
626 Route 107. SANFORD.
Fartlier on (126 M. from Palatka) we leave the muddy Ockla-
walia, emerge from the "woods, and ascend the crystal-clear Silver
Springs Bun to the right.
135 M. Silver Springs [Brown Eo.^ $ 2), the largest and one of
the most beautiful of the springs of Florida, claims to be the 'Foun-
tain of Youth' of which Ponce de Leon was in search (p. 616). The
water is wonderfully transparent, small objects being distinctly
seen at the bottom (60-80 ft. deep). The spring discharges thou-
sands of gallons of water hourly. The visitor should row round the
pool in one of the glass-bottomed boats.
Silver Springs is a station on tlie Seaboard Air Line, connecting via
Ocala (p. 628), 6 M. to the W., with all parts of the State.
The tipper part of the Ocklawaha, above Silver Springs Rnn (see
above), is seldom, visited by the tourist.
107. From Jacksonville to Tampa.
Co7np. Map, p. 615.
a. Yih Palatka and Sanford.
239 M. Atlantic Coast Railway in 8-9 hrs. (fare $5.80; sleeper §2).
Fort Tampa fp. 628), the starting-point of steamers to Key West and Havana,
is 9 31. 0/2 hr.) farther on. Through -sleepers from New York to Port
Tampa run on this route (conip. p. 611).
From Jacksonville (p. 614) to Palatka the line follows the left
(W.) bank of the St. Johns River (p. 623), which, however, is seldom
in sight. 28 M. Magnolia Springs (p. 624) ; 30 M. Green Cove Springs
(p. 624) ; 40 M. West Tocoi (comp. p. 624). — 55 M. Palatka (p. 624).
At (63 M.) Buffalo Bluff the train crosses to the E. bank of the
St. John's. Numerous orange-groves are passed. 83 M. Seville (Grand
View, $ 2), with a picturesque little station. Lake George (p. 624)
lies 4 M. to the W. — 99 M. De Leon Springs. From (107 M.) De
Land Junction a short line extends to (4 M.) De Land (p. 625),
and at (112 M.) Orange City Junction we connect with that from
New Smyrna (p. 619). — At (118 M.) Enterprise Junction diverges
the line to Enterprise and Titusville (p. 620).
Our line now crosses the St. John's River as it issues from Lake
Monroe (p. 625). 121 M. Monroe.
125 M. Sanford (Sanford Ho., from $2; Wilton, $2-3; Rail.
Restaurant), a thriving little city with (1905) 2825 inhab., is of
some importance as the practical limit of navigation on the St. John's
River and the junction of several railways. It lies on the S. side of
Lake Monroe, in which fair fishing is obtained,
Fkom Sanfokd to Tarpon Speings axd St. Peteksbdeg, 150 M., Atlantic
Coast Line (no through-trains). — 14 M. Palm Springs; 23 M. Clarcona; 28 M.
Or oxen Point, with lemon -groves; 33 M. Oakland, on Lake Apopka, with
large orange -groves; 44 M. Clermont, on Lake Mineola, a tomato-growing
centre; 53 M. Mascoite. At (75 M.) Trilby, where we cross the W. coast
route from the N. to Tampa (see p. 628), the line changes from narrow
gauge to standard gauge. The town lies on Lake Du Maurier, and its streets
TAMPA. 107. Routt. 627
are named after the characters in the well-known novel. — 119 M. Tarpon
Springs {The Oaks, The Ferns, $ 2), a pleasant resort on the Gulf Coast,
near the mouth of the Anclote River. The late Duke of Sutherland's manor
lies 2 M. to the N.E. On the Anclote River, 3 M. to the W., is Sponge
Harhor, whence large quantities of sponges are exported. — 124 M. Suther-
land (San Marino, $ 2-4), a favourite winter-resort. — Beyond (129 M.) Dun-
edin the train traverses the Pinellas Peninsula, between Old Tampa Bay and
the Gulf of Mexico. — 133 M. Belleair (BeUeview, from S 5) is a new winter-
resort overlooking Clearwater Bap. — 150 M. St. Petersburg {Detroit, Hunt-
ington, from $ 2V2), a good fishing-station on Tampa Bay. Steamers ply
from (151 M.) St. Petersburg Wharf to Port Tampa (p. 628) and the Ma-
natee River.
From Sanford to Jacksonville by steamer, see R. 105. Sanford is also
connected by railway with Lake Charm and with Tavares (on Lake Eustis)
and Leesburg (p. 629).
Beyond Sanford we traverse a country tMckly sprinkled with
lakes. — 143 M. Winter Park (Rogers Ho., $ 21/2-3) , a charming
winter-resort, snrronnded by lakes (boating and fishing). — 148 M.
Orlando (-Son Juan, from $ 3 ; Tremont, Wyoming, from $ 21/2), a
bnsy little city with (1905) 3510inhab., affords good headquarters for
guides and sporting supplies. — 166 M. Kissimmee (Kissimee Hotel,
from $2; Park, $2), on Tohopekaliga Lake, is another good hunting
centre. It is the headquarters of the United Land Co., which has done
much to reclaim the swampy land to the S. Sugar is raised at St. Cloud,
a little to the S.E. (branch-line).
The Kissimmee River, issuing from Tohopekaliga Lake, flows through
Lake Kissimmee to the large Lake Okeechobee, which connects with the Gulf
of Mexico by a canal and the Caloosahatchee River.
From (193 M.) Bartow Junction a branch-line runs to the S.
to (17 M.) Bartow, (90 M.) Punta Gorda, and (118 M.) Fort Myers.
Punta Gorda (Punta Gorda Hotel, open in winter, from $ 31/2; Dade Ho.
open in summer, $25 Brit, vice-consul, Mr. A. F. Dewey), on Charlotte
Harbor, is resorted to by sportsmen and fishermen, who obtain good sport
on the Peace River and in the harbour. The best fishing-ground for tarpon
(p. 611) is within easy reach.
207 M. Lakeland (215 ft.; Tremont Ho., $2V2-3; Matanzas,
$ 2) is the junction of another line to Bartow (and Punta Gorda)
and also of the W. coast line from the N. (comp. p. 628). At (218 M.)
Plant City we cross the Seaboard Air Line (comp. p. 629).
239 M. Tampa [Tampa Bay Hotel, with 500 rooms, a theatre,
a swimming bath, and golf-links, from $ 4, variously reported oh ;
De Soto, Almeria, from $ 2V2 ; Palmetto, from $ 2), the most im-
portant commercial city on the Gulf Coast of Florida, with (1905)
22,825 inhab. (incl. West Tampa), lies at the head of Hillsborough
Bay (the E. branch of Tampa Bay) and at the mouth of the Hills-
borough River. It is surrounded with lemon and orange groves and
has become one of the favourite health-resorts in Florida, especially
since the opening of the huge and handsome Tampa Bay Hotel
(fagade of 511 ft.). The bay swarms with fish, including the tarpon
(p. 611), and with water-fowl, while deer and other game are found
inland. Cigar-making is the leading industry.
About 20 M. to the S.E. of Tampa , at Indian Hill, are some curioua
shell-mounds in which human remains were found.
40*
628 Route 107. OCALA. From Jacksonville
248 M. Port Tampa (*The Inn, R. from $ 1 j Brit, vice-consul, Mr.
James W. Morris), on tlie peninsula separating Hillsborough Bay
from Old Tampa Bay, is tlie starting-point of steamers to Key West
and Havana, and various points on Tampa Bay, etc. To reach
deep water the railway has to run into the hay on trestle-work for
nearly 1 M., and at the end of this is the pier, with the inn and
other huil dings.
The Peninsular <fe Occidental S. S. Co.'s steamers for Havana (p. 661)
run thrice weekly (31-32 hrs. ; fare $24.85; comp. p. 623).
b. ViS. Falatka and Ocaja.
263 M. Atlantic Coast Line in 12-13 hrs. (fares as at p. 626).
From Jacksonville to (55 M.) Palatka, see R. 107a. Our line now
runs towards the W., passing some wayside stations. At (93 M.)
Rochelle we diverge to the left from the line to (32 M.) High Springs
(p. 612) and run towards the S. — From (99 M.) Micanopy Junction
a branch-line runsW. to (8 M.) Tacoma, and from (106 M.) Proctor
another runs to (6 M.) Citra (p. 629).
124 M. Ocala {Ocala Ho., from $ 3; Montezuma, from $2), a
thriving little city (4493 inhab. in 1905), in one of the most fertile
districts of Florida. Large phosphate beds are worked in the vicin-
ity. Ocala is also a station on the Seaboard Air Line (see below)
and the starting-point of a branch of the Atlantic Coast Line to Dun-
nellon (on the Withlacoochee River), Crystal, and (48 M.) Homosassa,
on the Gulf of Mexico. Line to Silver Springs, see p. 626.
At (158 M.) Leeshurg, the junction of a line to Astor (p. 625), we
bend to the S.W. 185 M. St. Catherine (p. 629). From (187 M.)
Croom a branch-line runs to (10 M.) Brooksville. At (197 M.) Trilby
(p. 626) we cross the line from Sanford to St. Petersburg. At
(231 M.) Lakeland (p. 627) we join the route above described and
follow it to (263 M.) Tampa (p. 627).
c. Vik Waldo and Ocala.
212 M. Seaboaed Aie Line Eailwat in 8V2-II trs. (fares as at p. 626;
to Ocala $ 3, to Cedar Key $ 5.35).
At (19 M.) Baldwin this line diverges to the left (S.) from the
line to Tallahassee and New Orleans (see R. 108) and joins the line
from Fernandina (p. 615) to Tampa. 33 M. Highland; 38 M. Lawtey,
with orange -groves and strawberry -farms. 45 M. Starke is the
junction of a branch-line to (56 M.) Wannee. At (51 M.) Hampton
we cross the railway from Palatka (p. 624) to Macon (p. 611). —
56 M. Waldo (^Waldo Ho., $2) is the junction of a branch-line to
Cedar Key (see below).
From Waldo to Cedar Ket, 71 M., railway in 3 hrs. — 14 M. Gaines-
ville (Brown Ho., from 8 2), a city and winter-resort with (1905) 5413 in-
hab., is the junction of railways to Palatka, Ocala, Live Oak, etc Excur-
sions may be made to the Alachua Sink (alternately lake and prairie) and
other natural curiosities, — From (2S M.) Arch^' a branch-line leads tbrougb
to Tampa. BRADENTOWN. 107. Route. 629
a rich phosphate district to Eagle Mine (phosphates). — 71 M. Cedar Key
{New Palmetto^ Schlemmer, $2), a town of (19 '5) 932 inhab., lies on a small
'key' (comp. p. 622) off the W. coast of Florida and has a harbour which
admits vessels of 12 ft. draught. It carries on a trade in fish, turtle, oysters,
and sponges, and cuts red cedar for lead pencils. Steamers ply hence to
the Suwanee Eiver, etc. — The Suwanee Elver, well known from the
negro song of 'The old folks at home' (by 8. C. Foster), enters the Gulf of
Mexico about 15 M. to the N.
At (71 M.) Hawthorne we intersect the line from Palatka to
Gainesville [see p. 624). Farther on we skirt Loch Loosa and cross
the E. branch of Orange Lake, on the S. shore of which we traverse,
for nearly 1 M., the so-called Mammoth Orange Groves, now great-
ly reduced in size (comp. p. 611). 83 M. Citra (p. 628). From
(98 M.) Silver Springs Junction a branch-line runs to (2 M.) Silver
Springs (see p. 626). — 102 M. Ocala, the junction of the Atlantic
Coast Line, see p. 628. — From (127 M.) Wildwood a line runs to
Leeshurg, Tavares, Orlando, and Lake Charm. 135 M. Panasoffkee,
at the S. end of the lake of that name. About 4 M. to the N. of
(146 M.) St. Catherine (junction of the Atlantic Coast Line) is the
spot where Major Dade and his detachment of 110 men were sur-
prised and slain by the Seminoles on Dec. 28th, 1835, only three
soldiers escaping alive. — At (156 M.) Lacoochee we touch the At-
lantic Coast line from Sanford to St. Petersburg (see p. 626). Near
(164 M.) Dade City is the pretty Pasadena Lake. 189 M. Plant City
see p. 627; 194 M. Turkey Creek ^ the junction of a branch -line
to Fruitville (see below); 210 M. Tbor City, with large tobacco-
factories,
212 M. Tampa, see p. 627.
From Tukket Ceeek to Fkuitville, 60 M., in 21/2-41/2 hrs. This new
line opens up the ''Manatee Couniry\ a fertile orange-growing district,
below the 'frost-line'. It also offers good shooting and fishing. — 5 M,
Durant; 11 M. Boyett; 16 M. Balm; 26 M. Willow; 32 M Parrish; ^QW. Erie;
89 M. Terra Ceia Junction, for (51/2 M.) Terra Ceia; 42 M. Ellenton. — 43 M.
Palmetto , on the Manatee River. Braden Castle, near here (now in ruins),
and the Gamble Mansion, near Ellenton (see above), were the two chief
establishments of the early sugar-planters in this region. — 44 M. Manatee,
on the S. bank of the river. — 46 M. Bradentown (EoteU), the county-seat,
a pleasant little place with (1905) l49i inhab and a steamboat-dock. — 48 M.
Oneco ; 56 M. Sarasota (De Soto Hotel, from $2), on Sarasota Bay. —
60 M. Fruitville. The line is to be prolonged to Punta Gorda (see p. 627).
108. From Jacksonville to Tallahassee, Pensacola,
and New Orleans.
614 M. Seaboakd Aie Line Eailwat to (208 M.) River Junction in 8 hrs. ;
Louisville & IJ'ashville R R. thence to (406 M.) New Orleans in 14-15 hrs.
through-carriages; fare $19.35; sleeper $3.50).
Jacksonville, see p. 614. The line runs nearly dueW. At (19 M.)
Baldwin we cross the line from Fernandina to Tampa and Cedar Key
(see R. 107c). Beyond (28 M.) Macclenny we cross the S. fork of
the St. Mary's River. The Confederates defeated the Federals at
630 Route 108. TALLAHASSEE.
(47 M.) Olustee on Feb. 20th, 1864. — 59 M. Lake City (Central Ho.,
Blanche Hotel, $ 2), emhosomed in trees, Is the seat of the State
Agricultural College and a U. S. Experimental Station and the junction
of lines to Paiatfea (p. 624), Gainesville (j^. Q2S), Macon (p. 611),
etc. It is surrounded by lakes and lakelets. — At (81 M.) Live Oak^
8 M. to the N. of which lie Suwanee Springs, we intersect the W. coast
route of the Atlantic Coast Line [p. 612), and at (95 M.) Ellaville we
cross the rushing Suwanee River (p. 629). Beyond (123 M.) Green-
ville we cross the Aucilla. From (138 M.) Driflon a line runs N. to
(4 M.) Monticello and Thomasville (p. 612). 147 M. Lloyd (RaU.
Restaurant, meals 75 c). The country now becomes more hilly.
165 M. Tallahassee (Xeon, $2-3; St. James, $2), the capital
of Florida, is finely situated among trees, on a hill rising 280 ft. above
the sea. Pop. (1905) 3311. The chief buildings are the Capitol, Court
House, and West Florida Seminary. The gardens are especially
beautiful in the time of roses. The Episcopal Cemetery contains the
grave of Prince Achille Murat (d. 1847), son of the King of Naples,
who married a Virginian girl and settled near Tallahassee.
Pleasant drives may be taken to (6 j\I.) Lake Jackson (fishing), Lake
lamonia (12 M.), Lake ificcosukie (18 M.), Bellair (6 M.), and the ^"Wakulla
Spring (15 M. to the S.). The spring (41/2 M. from Wakulla Station, on the
branch-line to St. Mark's) is 106 ft. deep and of wonderful transparency.
It may also be reached by boat from St. Mark's (2 hrs.).
From Tallahassee the Georgia, Flokida, & Alabama Railway runs to
the S.W. to (45 M.) Lanark (Lanark Inn, 3 2), a popular resort on the Gulf
of Mexico, and (50 M.) Carrabelle (City Hotel, § 2), a port with fishing
and lumber interests. — From Carrabelle steamers ply to (30 M.) Apala>
chicola (Fuller, $2; Brit, vice-consul, Mr. T. F. Porter), another fishing
and lumbering port, with (1905) 3244 inhab., at the mouth of the Apala-
chicola River.
About 2 M. beyond Tallahassee the Murat Homestead (see above)
is visible to the right. We cross the Ocklockonee River. Magnolias grow
here in great profusion. 189 M. Quincy, with tobacco-plantations.
At (208 M.) River Junction, on the Apalachicola River (see above;
curious railway- station, erected on trestle-work above the river), we
join the Louisville ^ Nashville R. R. Connection is also made here with
the Apalachicola River steamers. Our train crosses a long trestle over
the Apalachicola, formed by the junction of the Flint and Chatta-
hoochee, 2 M. above. — 234 M. Marianna, on the Chipola. 290 M.
De Funiak Springs {Grm.nB.0., $2). Beyond (319 M.) Crestview
we cross Shoal River. 349 M. Milton lies at the head of Blackwater
Bay. About 10 M. farther on we cross Escambia Bay by a trestle 3 M.
long. Fine marine views to the left.
369 M. Pensacola (Escambia, Merchants', from $2V2; Brit, vice-
consul, Mr. Charles A. S. Perceval; Ger. con., Mr. G. Rolfs), on the bay
of the same name, 10 M. from the Gulf of Mexico, was founded by
the Spaniards in 1696 and has (1905) 21, 505 inhab., a brisk trade
in fish and timber, and a huge grain elevator. The ruins of Forte
St. Michael and St. Bernard date partly from the Spanish period.
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NEW ORLEANS. 109. Route. 631
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Visits may be made (small steamer) to tlie JV^ary Yard^ Ft. McRae^
Ft. Barancat, and Ft. Pickens (Santa Eosa Island). Steamers also ply to
European ports.
Fkom Pensacola to Muscogee, 26 M., Fensacola, Alabama, tb Tennessee
R. R. in IV2 ir. — From Muscogee this line is being extended to Mobile
Bay, wMeli it will traverse on trestles to Mobile (p. 573).
The train now runs to the N., along the Escambia River, and
enters Alabama (p. 572) shortly before reaching (412 M.) Flomaton.
From Flomaton to (473 M.) Mobile and —
614 M. New Orleans, see R. 91 a.
109. New Orleans.
Railway Stations. Union (PI. E, 4), for the Southern Pacific R. R., the
Illinois Central R. R., and the Yazoo & Mississippi Valley R. R. ; Terminal
(PI. E, 3), for the St. Louis & San Francisco R. R. ; Louisville <& Nashville
(PL F, 4); Neva Orleans & North Eastern {Queen & Crescent Station; PL
G, H, 8); Neto Orleans 4& Southern (PL G, 2)-, Texas & Pacific (PL F, 5), on
the Levee, with ferries across the river 5 Fort Jackson (PL G, 3), on the
W. bank; West End (PL F, 3, 4) ; Old Lake (PL G, 2, 8), for local lines to
Lake Pontchartrain (p. 636).
Hotels. IfEw Denechaud (PL b; E, 4), at the corner of Perdido and
Baronne Sts. ; *Gecnewaid (PL d; F, 4), University Place, near Canal St.,
R. from $ 2; St. Charles (PL c; F, 4), St. Charles St., from $ 81/2, R. from
$ IV2? Monteleone (PL f; F, 3, 4), corner of Royal and Iberville Sts.,
Cosmopolitan (PL e; F, 4), Bourbon and Royal Sts., these two good
commercial houses, R. $172; Fabacheb's, Iberville St., near Royal St., plain,
R. from $ 1. — BoAKDiNG Houses abound throughout ITew Orleans, and the
numerous Pensions and Chambres Garnies of the French Quarter are carried
on in genuine Creole style. During the Carnival (p. 683) a special bureau
is established for giving information about lodgings.
Restaurants. In the above hotels; "^Antoine, 713 St. Louis St., ex-
cellent French cuisine, high charges; * Louisiana (same owner), 717 Iber-
ville St., simpler and less expensive; ^Begui, near the French Market,
corner Madison and Decatur Sts., with famous noon-breakfast (unpretending
in equipment); Victor, 209 BoTirbon St.; Figalle, 722 Iberville St., unpre-
tending, good cooking; Fabacher, 187 Royal St. (ladies' entrance, 708 Iber-
ville St.), open day and night ; Dour, at City Park ; Christian Women's Ex-
change, corner Camp and South Sts., on Lafayette Square, clean and
cheap. Restaurants at West End, see p. 686. — The markets of New Or-
leans are singularly well stocked with game, fish, fruit, and vegetables,
and its restaurants have a good reputation. Among the Creole dishes
for which New Orleans is famous is Gumbo, a thick vegetable soup, made
of okra and flavoured with chicken, oysters, crabs, or shrimps. — Caf4s
abound in the French Quarter.
Electric Tramways traverse the city in all directions and run to the
suburbs (fare 5 c). All cars start from the loop on Canal Street, near
the Post Office (PL F, 4). The rear-seats of each car are 'Reserved for our
Colored Patrons'. Comp. p. 686. — Carriages about $ 1 per hour ; from
the railway-stations to the hotels 50 c. each person. — Omnibuses meet
the principal trains (25 c). — Ferries ply to Algiers, Oouldsborough, and
Gretna, on the opposite side of the Mississippi. — Steamers ply to all points
on the Mississippi (comp. R. 69), Ohio, and Missouri, and to New York, Boston,
Key West, Havana, Vera Cruz, Liverpool, Hamburg, South Africa, and many
other American and European ports. An Excuesion Steamer starts every
afternoon for a trip roimd the harbour and up the river (ca. 8 M. ; fare 50 c.)
Places of Amusement. French Opera House (PL F, 3), corner of Bour-
bon and Toulouse Sts. (2000 seats); Tuktne, Crescent, coy. of Theatre Arcade
632 Boute 109. NEW ORLEANS. Situation.
(Baronne St.) and Common St. (PI. F, 4); Shulert, Baronne St., between
Lafayette and Poydras Sts. (PI. E, 4-, vaudeville); Orpheum (PL F, 4), 432 St.
Charles St. (vaudeville); Elysium Theatre (PI. G, 2); Athletic Park (PI. B, C, 2),
for summer vaudeville; West End Casino, at the lake (p. 636), for concerts
in summer. — Comp. p. 636.
Consuls. British (for Louisiana, Arkansas, Mississippi, Alabama, and
Florida), Henry Thomas Carew-Hunt, 141 Carondelet St. German, Freiherr
von Meysenhug.
Tourist Agents. Thos. Cook & Son, 219 St. Charles St.
Post Office (PI. F, 4), Lafayette Sq., open 6.30 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sun. 9-12.
New Orleans, the chief city of Louisiana, the twelfth city of the
United States, and the largest to the S. of St. Louis, is situated on
the Mississippi, 106 M. ahore its mouth in the Gulf of Mexico.
The great bulk of the city lies on the left bank of the river , which
is here V4-V2 ^- ^^^^ and makes the bend from which New Orleans
derives its appellation of 'Crescent City'. A great part of the city
is below the level of the river during the high flood tides, which
last for a few days each year, and is protected by a levee or em-
bankment, 15 ft. wide and 14 ft. high. The municipal limits,
which extend on the N. to Lake Pontchartrain (p. 636), enclose an
area of 187 sq. M., but while three-fourths of this is as yet unin-
habitable swamp, portions are steadily being reclaimed. The city
is laid out with considerable regularity, and many of the chief streets
are wide and shaded with trees. The most important business-
thoroughfare is Canal Street (PI. B-F, 1-4), which runs at right
angles to the river and divides the French Quarter, or '■Vieux Carre*
(see p. 633), on the N.E., from the New City, or American Quarter,
on the S.W. The finest residences are in St. Charles Avenue
(PI. A-E, 5, 6), and in Esplanade Avenue (PI. D-G, 1-3), where the
wealthy Creoles have their homes. In 1900 New Orleans contained
287,104 inhab., of whom about one-quarter are Coloured, while the
remaining three-fourths include large proportions of French, Ger-
man, Irish, Italian, and Spanish blood.
New Orleans was founded in 1718 by Jean-Baptiste Lemoine de Bien-
ville, governor of the settlement made in 1699 at Biloxi (see p. 574), and
became the capital of Louisiana in 1721, while still but little more than a
village of trappers and gold-hunters (comp. Miss Grace King''s 'Sieur de Bien-
ville'). In 1732 the population was about StXX). In 1762 it was ceded by France
to Spain, but the inhabitants rebelled against this transference, established
a government of their own, and were not suppressed till 1769. From 1800
to 1803 New Orleans was again in the hands of the French, but in the latter
year it was ceded, with the rest of Louisiana, to the United States. In
1804, when it had about 10,000 inhab., it received its city-charter. In
1815 the British were defeated here in an important battle by Gen. Andrew
Jackson (see p. 636). In 1840 New Orleans was the fourth city of the
United States, ranking after New York, Philadelphia, and Baltimore. New
Orleans surrendered to the Unionists under Gen. Ben. Butler in 1862, after
Adm. Farragut had succeeded in passing the forts at the mouth of the
Mississippi and had the city under the gans of his fleet. By 1850 the
population had increased to 116,375, bv 1860 to 168,675, by 1870 to 191,418
by 1880 to 216,090, and by 1890 to 242,039.
New Orleans, as the outlet of the greatest agricultural valley in the
world, with a grand natural harbonr, furnished with important wharves
and warehouses, and the largest Federal dry-dock, is essentially a com-
mtory. NEW ORLEANS. 109. Route. 633
mercial city, and its foreign export trade is very important. In 1907 the
value of its exports was $ 155,457,119 and that of its imports $ 46,069,502,
the combined total showing it to be the third port of the United States
(after New York and Boston). It is one of the largest cotton-markets in
the world, and handles about 2-21/2 million bales annually. It also exports
large quantities of sugar, molasses, rice, pork, Indian corn, wool, timber,
hides, and tobacco, and imports fruits from Central and South America,
including enormous quantities of bananas. The tonnage of ships annually
entering the harbour exceeds 4,500,000. Its manufactures (valued in 1905
at $84,600,000, in 175 varieties) include cotton-seed oil, machinery, barrel-
staves, flour, rice, tobacco, and sugar. — In spite of the levees and em-
bankments the lower Mississippi sometimes breaks its bounds, and dis-
astrous inundations follow. Within the last 150 years the E. bank of the
river at New Orleans has greatly advanced, the new land or 'batture'
being at some points as much as 1500 ft. wide.
New Orleans is in many ways one of the most picturesque and in-
teresting cities in America, owing to the survival of the buildings, manners,
and customs of its original French and Spanish inhabitants. It has been
described by Mr. G. W. Gable as 'a city of villas and cottages, of umbra-
geous gardens, intersected by 470 M. of unpaved streets, shaded by forest
trees, haunted by song-birds, fragrant with a wealth of flowers that never
fails a day in the year, and abundant, in season, with fruit — the fig, the
plum, the pomegranate, the orange'. The French Quarter, to the N.E. of
Canal St., is largely inhabited by Creoles., 'a handsome, graceful, and in-
telligent race, of a decidedly Gallic type, whose name does not necessarily
imply, any more than it excludes, a departure from a pure double line of
Latin descent' (Cable). Of late years many negroes and Italians have
crowded into this quarter. Among its foreign -looking features are the
walls of adobe, the lime-washed stucco facades, the jalousies, the grat-
ings, the small-paned windows, the portes-cocheres, the arcades of elegant
slim pillars, the balconies of delicate hand-wrought iron, the tiled roofs,
and the inner courts with half-hidden gardens — the whole embosomed
in bright-flowering semi-tropical plants. Most of the streets bear French
or Spanish names; and indeed the whole street -nomenclature of New
Orleans is picturesque, though the Anglicized pronunciation will some-
times puzzle a stranger. — The famous Carnival of Mardi Gras (Shrove
Tuesday), celebrated here with great splendour since its beginning early in
the 19th century, is, perhaps, the most picturesque festival in America. The
city is taken formal possession of by Rex, the King of the Carnival; and the
revels of his retinue, the Knights of Momus, the Mystic Krewe of Comus,
and other societies are of the liveliest description. The processions are
very elaborate (comp. p. 412). Those who mean to visit New Orleans at
this season should secure rooms in advance (see p. 631).
The visitor to New Orleans should be familiar with George W. Cable's
romances ('Sieur George', 'Mme. Delphine', 'The Grandissimes'', etc.). The
house of 'Sieur George' is at the S.E. corner of Royal and St. Peter Sts.
(PI. F, 3). No. 253 Royal St., the home of 'Mme. Delicieuse', and 'Mme.
Delphine's', at 294 Barracks St. (PI. F, 3), near Royal St., are replaced by
new structures. The 'Haunted House' of 'Mme. Lalaurie' stiU stands intact
at 1140 Royal St., at the S.E. corner of Hospital St. This mansion has
harboured Lafayette, Ney, and Louis Philippe. Lafitte's shop, when he
was no longer a pirate, is unchanged, at the N.E. corner of Hourbon and
St. Philippe Sts. 'Tite Poulette' lived on the S. side of Dumaine St.,
between Royal and Chartres Sts. At 1122 Royal St. is a court surrounded
by portale's of the early Spanish barracks. At the N.E. corner of St. Louis
and Chartres Sts. is the grand mansion designed to give shelter to Napoleon
Bonaparte, when Girod planned the escape from St. Helena. — See also
New Orleans: the Place and the People', by Grace King.
Paul Morphy (1837-84), the famous chess-player, was a native of New
Orleans and is buried in the old St. Louis Cemetery (p. 635). General
Beauregard (1818-93; p. 569) was born in a house in Chartres St., between
Ursulines Ave. and Hospital St. (P\. F, G, 3).
634 Route 109. NEW ORLEANS. Leoee.
The tourist will do well to tegin Ms exploration of New Orleans
by taking his bearings from the roof of the Maison Blanche (Pi. F, 3),
the tallest office bnilding in the city, at the corner of Canal and
Danphine Sts., or of the Hennen Building, at the corner of Common
Ave. and Carondelet St. (PI. F, 4), or from the roof of the Custom
House (PL F, 4). The latter is a large granite bnilding in Canal
Steeet, near the river, containing the large Marble Hall.
Just below the Custom House, Canal St. ends at the *Levee (PI.
F-H , 3 - 6) , which extends along the "W. bank of the Mississippi
for about 6 M. and presents a very animated and interesting scene.
Following it to the left (N.) we soon reach * Jackson Square
(PI. F, 3), the old Place dfArmes^ which retains its ancient iron rail-
ing, and contains a Statue of Gen. Andrew Jackson (see p. 632) by
Mills. It is adjoined by the Cathedral of St. Louis, a good specimen
of the Spanish- Creole style, built in 1792-94, on the site of the first
church in Louisiana, but altered in 1850. It contains some paint-
ings and interesting tombs. The buildings to the right and left are
Court Houses, that to the S. having been built for the Cabildo, or
City Council of the Spanish regime. In it and in front of it were
held the ceremonies attending the cession of Louisiana by the
French Government to the United States in 1803 (p. 632). On the
N. and S. sides of the square stand the original Pontalba Mansions,
of historic brick and still owned by that family.
In Orleans St., near the E. end of the Cathedral, is a Convent of
Colonred Kuns, which contains what was formerly the famous Quadroon
Ballroom, mentioned by Cable, the scene of many celebrated festivities.
On the Levee, just beyond Jackson Sq., is the *French Market
(PI. G, 3), a morning visit to which (best about 6 or 7 a.m. ; on
Sun. 8 or 9a.m.) reveals a scene of the greatest pioturesqueness and
animation. — A little farther on, at the foot of Esplanade Ave., is
the U. S. Branch Mint (PI. G, 3), a large building in the Ionic style.
In Royal St., four blocks from Canal St., is the new Court House
(PI. F, 3), a handsome structure of white marble and terracotta.
We may now take an opportunity for a stroll in the fine 'French
Q,uarter (see p. 633), among the chief promenades of which are Esplanade
Ave. (PI. D-G, 1-3), Rampart Street (PI. F, 2, 3), and Bourbon, Toulouse, Conti,
and Ropal Streets (PI. F, 3). At the corner of Chartres and Hospital Sts. is
the Archbishop's Residence (PI. F. G, 3), in the unchanged Ursuline Convent,
built in 1730, in which a Colonial Museum has been opened recently (visitors
admitted). Beyond this, on the Levee facing the river, is the second house
of the Ursulines, also worth a visit.
Following St. Charles Ave. from Canal St. to the S., we pass the
St. Charles Hotel (right) and the Orpheum (left; PI. F, 4) and reach
*Lafayette Square (PI. F, 4), around which are grouped the City Hall,
the new Post Office, St. Patrick's Church (Camp St.), the First Presby-
terian Church, and the Odd Fellows^ Hall. In the square are a Statue of
Franklin, by Hiram Powers, a Monument to John McDonough{Tp. 635;
1898), and a Statue of Henry Clay (p. 582). Farther on we come
to Lee Circle (PI. F, 5), with a monument to Gen. Robert E. Lee.
Cotton Exchange. NEW ORLEANS. 109. Route. 635
At the comer of Camp St. and Howard Ave. , adjoining Lee Circle,
stands the *Howard Library (PL F, 4; open 9-9, Sun. 1.30-5;
for reference nse only), the last work of E.H. Richardson, who was
a native of Lonisiana. Adjacent are Memorial Hall, a mnsenm of
Confederate relics (entr. in Camp St.), and the new building of the
Public Library. To the S.W., in Carondelet St., is the Jewish Temple
Sinai (PI. E, 5). — The Monument to Margaret Eaughery (PI. F, 5),
the 'Orphan's Friend', is said to have been the first statue of a woman
erected in the United States (comp., however, p. 314).
TuLANB Avenue (PI. C, D, 2, 3), named in honour of the chief
benefactor of Tulane University (see below) , and its continuation
Common Street (PL E, 3, 4) contain the Law Department of Tulane
University, the House of Detention, the Jesuit Church of the Imma-
culate Conception (PI. E, F, 4), in a singular Moorish style, the
Parish Prison and Criminal Courts, the Hotel-Dieu, and the large
Charity Hospital (PL E, 3), originally established in 1784 (1050 beds).
The large Cotton Exchange (PL F, 4) is at the corner of Caron-
delet and Gravier Sts.; the Produce Exchange (PI. F, 4) is in Maga-
zine St. ; and the Sugar Exchange (PL F, 4) is at the foot of Bienville
St. — The U. S. Marine Hospital (PL A, 7) lies near the river.
*St. Charles Avenue (PL A-E, 5, 6), extending in a crescent
from Lee Circle (p. 634) past Audubon Park (see below) to the
river, is lined with oaks and magnolias and contains many old and
admirable private residences, as well as many modem ones in more
questionable taste. Among its public buildings are Christ Church
(PL D, 6), the New Orleans University (600 students), the Academy
of the Sacred Heart, the Jewish Orphan Home, and the Harmony Club.
At the point where the avenue crosses Audubon Park are the newer
buildings of the Tulane University of Louisiana (PL A, 5), an im-
portant and weU- equipped institution with 1870 students and a
library of 50,000 volumes. A department of Tulane University is the
H. Sophie Newcomb Memorial College for Women (PL E, 6), founded
in 1886. — A legacy of John McDonough (d. 1850) has built and
equipped 30 handsome School Houses in different parts of the city,
accommodating 15-20,000 children.
The City Park (PL B, C, 1), on the Metairie Ridge, is 150 acres
in extent. The Audubon Park (PL A, B, 4-7), in which the Great
Exhibition of 1884-85 was held, and which now holds the 'Sugar
Experimental Station' (PL A, 7) of the State of Lousiana, is a long
segment extending back from the river, being the ground in which
the sugar-cane was first grown in this state. Both parks contain fine
live-oaks. — The *Cemeteries of New Orleans are among its recog-
nized sights, owing to the fact that the swampy nature of the soil
prevents the digging of graves and requires the bodies to be interred
in mounds above ground. The most interesting is the old St. Louis
Cemetery (PL F, 3) which contains the earliest tombs, mostly French
636 Route 109. NEW ORLEANS. Excursions.
and Spanish, The Metairie Cemetery (PI. A, 1) is the handsomest,
but is comparatively modem. It contains the grave of Gen. Albert
Sydney Johnston (1803-62), with an equestrian statue. In the ad-
jacent Greenwood Cemetery (PL B, 1) is a Monument to the Con-
federate Dead. The Cemetery of St. Boch (PI. G, 1), in the French
Quarter, has a famous shrine "where many miracles are said to have
been performed.
The two followmg trips by electric car give a good general siirvey of
the town: — a. Canal Belt Line. Tbis follows the long and dreary
Canal Street (PI. B-F, 1-4), passing the above-mentioned Cemeteries; skirts
the City Park (p. 635), with its noble trees*, crosses the Bayou St. John
(PI. D, 1), with its memories of Cable's 'Posson Jone' ; passes the Fair
Gi-ounds (PI. D, E, 1) and Race Track-, and returns via Esplanade Avenue (PI.
D-G, 1-3) to Canal St Before regaining our starting-point, however, we may
transfer (free) at the corner of Esplanade Ave. and Rampart Sts. (PI. F. 2),
and take the Dauphine St. car through the business-quarter, then by the
slums behind the Ursuline Convent (p. 634) and past Holy Cross College,
to the terminus near the pleasant U. S. Barracks, whence we may walk
along the Levee to Chalmette (see below). — b. St. Chaeles Avenue Belt
Line. This leads from Canal St. via Baronne St. to St. Charles Avenue {ip. 635),
follows this street to Audubon Park (p. 635), passes Tulane University (p. 365),
and returns via Carrollton Avenue (PI. A, B, 4-2) and Tulane Avenue (p. 635(
to Canal St.
Excursions. Among the favourite resorts of the New Orleaners is
*'Lake Pontchartrain, which lies about 5 M. to the N. of the city and is
40 M. long and 25 M. wide. A fish or game dinner at one of the garden
restaurants here is a regular feature of a visit to New Orleans. Spanish
Fort Park., at the mouth of the Bayou St. John, marks the site of a fort
erected by the Spaniards to guard this approach to the city. It is reached
by a drive along the Shell Road. West End (West End Hotel; Tranchina
and other restaurants), also reached by the Shell Road or by electric car
(cor. of Canal and Bourbon Sts. ; PI. F 3), is a favourite boating and
yachting resort, with the Southern Yacht Club House, and many restaur-
ants, a band-stand, a pavilion, and a garden along the lake. Milnebuvg.,
to the E. of Spanish Fort, is reached by railway from Old Lake Station
(p. 631), or from the Louisville & Nashville Station (p. 631). — The site of
the Battlefield of New Orleans (see p. 632j is at Chalmette, on the Missis-
sippi, about 5 M. to the E. of Canal St., and may be reached by carriage
or electric car (comp above). Before reaching the battlefield we pass
several old-time Creole mansinns. The site of the battle is marked by an
unfinished monument, but nothing marks the graves of the American and
British soldiers. The National Cemetery, hard by, contains 12,000 graves
of Union soldiers of the Civil War. — The Carrollton Gardens lie to the N.
of the city (electric car). — A visit to one of the Sugar Plantations on
the Mississippi will be found interesting; the most notable are the Ames,
McCall, and Kernochan Plantations. — Good wild-fowl shooting and fishing
are obtained all round New Orleans.
Longer excursions may be made to Bayou Teche (p. 596), Past Christian
(p. 57o), Bay St. Louis (p. 575), Mobile (p. 573), the Eads Jetties (p. 432), etc.
From New Orleans to JVew York, see RR. 91a, 91b; to Pensacola and
Jacksonville, see R. 108; to Mobile, see pp. 575-573; to points in Texas and
California, see RR. 95, 87, 110; to Cincinnati, see R. 92; to St. Louis, see R. 93;
to Louisville, see R. 92, b, c ; to Chicago, see R. 93.
637
110. From New Orleans to Ballas, Fort Worth,
and El Paso.
Texas and Pacific Railway to (515 M.) Dallas in 21-22 lirs. (fare $ 15.30),
to (547 M.) Fort Worth in 23 bra. ($15.30), and to (1160 M.) El Paso in 47 hrs.
($ 29.90). — Passengers by this route connect at Fortli Wortli witli through-
carriages for Los Angeles and San Francisco, following the tracks of the
Southern Pacific Railway (R. 87) beyond El Paso.
Neva Orleans^ see p. 631. The line at first ascends on the light
bank of the Mississippi, finally parting company with the river near
(85 M.) Plaquemine. From (89 M.) Baton Rouge Junction a short
line runs to (8 M.) Port Allen, opposite Baton Rouge (p. 5S7).
From (162 M.) BunMe a line runs to (27 M.) Simmesport. From
(169 M.) Cheneyville a line runs to the S. to Lafayette (p. 596),
on the S. Pacific Railway. — 194 M. Alexandria (Rapides, $ 2-21/2)
is a pleasant little town of 5648 inhab., on the Red River. Steamers
ply hence to Shreveport (see below).
324 M. Shreveport Junction, for (2 M.) Shreveport (Tfte Inn,
R. from $ 1 ; New Phoenix, Caddo, from $ 21/2), a busy city with
16,013 inhab., on the Red River. Its chief exports are cotton and
live-stock. Steamers ply regularly to Alexandria and New Orleans.
Shreveport is the junction of lines to Viekshurg (p. 587) and Houston
(p. 594). — Our line now bends to the left (W.) and enters Texas
(p. 552) between (341 M.) Greenwood and (347 M.) Waskom.
368 M. Marshall (400 ft.; Qenocchio, Capitol, $2-21/2), a
brisk little city with 7855 inhab., machine-shops, and other factories,
is the junction of a line to (67 M.) Texarkana (p. 590) , connecting
there with the Iron Mountain Line (R. 94). — 390 M. Longview
(335ft.; Mobberly, Magnolia, $2) is the junction of the Inter-
national and Great Northern Railway to Austin (p. 594), San Antonio
(p. 592), and Laredo (p. 594). — 437 M. Mineola (400 ft.).
515 M. Dallas (465 ft. ; Oriental, $2^2-^] Southland, R. from
$ 11/2 ; Imperial, R. from $ 1 ; Lakeside, at Oak Cliff), a city of
(1900) 42,638 inhab., lies on the Trinity River, in the centre of a
rich corn, wheat, and cotton producing district. It is a railway- centre
of great importance, lines branching off to all points of the compass ;
and the annual value of its trade is $ 50,000,000, of its manufac-
tures about $ 12,000,000. The Court House, City Hall, Federal
Building, and Public Library are large edifices. In 1897 a Con-
federate Monument was erected here, consisting of a shaft of Texas
granite 50 ft. high, with statues of Jefferson Davis, Stonewall Jack-
son, Robert Lee, and Sydney Johnson at its base. On the bluffs
(200 ft.) to the S. of DaUas is the suburban town of Oak aiff, with
a large Female University.
547 M. Fort Worth (640 ft. ; Worth, from $ 3 ; Delaware, Met-
ropolitan, R. $ 1), a city with (1900) 26,688 inhab., on the Trinity
River, is the chief railway-centre of Texas, including lines to Wi-
chita (p. 476) and Newton (p. 476), Austin (p. 594), San Antonio
63SEoutelW. LLANO ESTACADO.
(p. 592), and Houston (p- 694). This is the headquarters of the
stock-men of the N. pait of Texas and has large stockyards, grain
elevators, flour-mills, packing-houses, foundries, railroad shops, and
facories. The annual value of its trade is ahout $ 45,000,000. It has
a L'tniversity (845 students), a Carnegie Library^ and other notahle
buildings. The electric street-railway system Includes a line to Dal-
las. To the W. are Arlington Heights (180 ft.), with a Country Club,
a winter-resort commanding a splendid view of Trinity Valley.
Beyond Fort Worth the line traverses an interminable cattle-rais-
ing district. Stations unimportant. 578 M. Weatherford (865 ft.).
662 M. Cisco (1610 ft.) is the junction of the Houston and Central
Texas R. R. 708 M. Abilene; 749 M. Sweet Water (also a station on
the Kansas City, Mexico, & Orient Railway) ; 814 M. Big Springs.
To the N. of this part of the line extends tlie Llano Estaeado or Great
Staked Plain, a district of 50,000 aq. M., consisting of a vast elevated plateau
nearly 5000 ft. above the sea, surrounded by an escarpment of erosion re-
sembling palisades. On the N. it is bounded by tbe Canadian River and
on the W. by tbe Fecos. Tbe name is said to be due to tbe stakes driven
into it by tbe Spaniards to mark tbeir way. Tbe soil is generally a brown
loam, covered wdtb grama grass (Bouteloua digostachya) and low mesquite
shrubs, but there are also large tracts of sand. There is no other vegetation.
The surface is almost perfectly level, except where a slight variation is
afforded by the sand-bills. There is no surface-water, except in a few
scattered ponds, but numerous wells have been sunk, and the Staked
Plain has thus now become a vast cattle-pasturage. The geological condi-
tions are interesting to the scientific visitor.
Beyond (874 M.) Odessa we see the White Sand Hills to the right
947 M. Pecos City, on the Pecos River, is the junction of the Pecos
VaUey R. R. to (163 M.) Boswell, (352 M.) Canyon City, and (370 M.)
Amarillo.
Canyon City lies at the E. end of Falo Duro Canyon, part of which,
including many natural features of great interest, has been reserved for a
national park.
Much important irrigation work has been effected in the Pecos Valley
From (966 M.) Toyah stages run to Fort Davis and Fort Stockton
We now enter a mountainous district, with the Guadalupe Mts. to
the right and the Apache Mts. to the left.
Between (1044M.) Altamore and (1054 M.) Eagle Flight the Carrizo
Mts. may be seen to the right. From (1067 M.) /Sierra Blanca to —
1160 M. El Paso, see p. 591.
Z4 ^
Los Estados meridionales de \j,,o^' "^^^^^
MEXICO ^'^-^^'^:
1 : 10.000.000
XiloirLetros
. 0^'-^'^
* ajxd. Soundinffs
in. ilet&^s
Instituto ^eogr. de "^NTagner & Delies .Leipzig
VI. MEXICO.
Route Page
Introductory Notes 639
111. From Laredo to the City of Mexico 641
From Acambaro to Uruapan. Nevado de Toluca 643.
112. From Eagle Pass to the City of Mexico 644
Durango 645.
113. From El Paso to the City of Mexico 645
From Torredn to Monterey and Tampico; to Saltillo 646.
— Guadalupe. From Aguascalientes to San Luis Potosi
and Tampico 647. — Guanajuato. From Irapuato to
Guadalajara 648.
114. The City of Mexico 650
Environs of Mexico. Palace of Chapultepec. Guadalupe.
Arbol de la Noche Triste. San Angel. Popocatepetl.
Ixtaccihuatl 654. — From Mexico to Cuernavaca; to
Pachuca 655.
115. From the City of Mexico to Vera Cruz 655
a. Via Apizaco and Orizaba 655
From Apizaco to Paebla 656. — From Cordoba to Santa
Lucrecia. From Vera Cruz to Alvarado 657.
b. Via San Lorenzo and Jalapa 658
c. Via Puebla and Jalapa 658
Pyramid of Cholula. From Puebla to Oaxaca 659. —
From Puebla to Tlancualpican 660.
The Republic of Mexico, occupying tbe S. part of N. America, con-
sists of a confederation of 27 States , three Territories , and a Federal
District (in which is situated the citv of Mexico). Its total area is about
767,000 sq. M. and its population in 1900 was 13,605,919- About 80 per cent of
the inhabitants are of pure or mixed Indian blood, and only 20 per cent
belong to the Spanish and other Caucasian races. With the exception of the
flat and narrow strips along the coasts of the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific
Ocean, the country consists of a huge table-land bounded on each side by
mountain-ranges, forming the N. prolongation of the Andes. The main
range, bounding the W. side of the table-land, is named the Sierra Madre.
The Central Mexican Plateau has a mean elevation of about 6000 ft.
Approaches. Plan and Season of Tour. Since the opening of the
railways described in RR. 111-113, an excursion into Mexico can be easily
added to a visit to the S. part of the United States , and affords a survey
of so novel and picturesque a civilization as amply to repay the time and
trouble. Three weeks will suffice for the journey to and from the City of
Mexico, with halts at many interesting places on the way, and also for
trips from the City of Mexico to Orizaba (or even Vera Cruz), Puebla,
and Oaxaca (Mitla). This excursion involves no serious hardships and is
constantly made by ladies; but those who wish to visit the interesting
remains of Yucatan and Chiapas must be prepared to give more time and
labour. The Mexican plateau may be visited at any season, and is, per-
haps, at its pleasantest from June to Sept., when the dust is abated by the
summer-rains. For a general tour, however, winter or early spring is pre-
ferable ; and March or April will be found as good months as any. Fairly
Babdbkbe''s United States. 4th Edit. 41
640 MEXICO.
light clothing is desirable for the heat of the day, but wraps should be at
hand for the cool evenings and mornings. The rarefied air of the Mexican
plateau is sometimes found rather trying at first. Those who intend to
use the steamer (comp. pp. 647, 657) in one direction are advised to take
it in going rather than in returning. An excellent through-train (60 hrs.)
now runs between St. Louis (p. 410) and the City of Mexico.
Travellers who do not speak Spanish cannot do better than join one
of the Raymond and Whitcomb Forties (see p. xxii), which visit Mexico in
winter and spring. Their usual route is from. Eagle Pass to the City of
Mexico (R. 112), and thence back to El Paso (R. 113), with excursions to
Orizaba (R. 115), Tampico (p. 647), etc. The parties travel on a special
vestibuled train, which serves them as their hotel (except in the City of
Mexico) and has the additional advantage of reaching and leaving the
stopping-places at convenient hours. Interpreters accompany each party. —
Similar excursions are arranged by the American Tourist Association and
other Tourist Agencies (comp, p. xxii), while the chief Mexican Railway
Companies also organize parties of the same kind.
Railways, etc. English is generally understood at the railway ticket-
offices of the larger towns and by the conductors of the through -trains.
Time-tables and 'folders' are also issued in English. The visitor to the
parts of Mexico described below will scarcely come into contact with the
system of Diligences. Most of the cities have complete systems of Tram-
ways (generally drawn by mules), all with first-class and second-class cars.
The tramways sometimes connect places 10-70 M. apart.
Hotels. Mexican hotels are apt to be poor, and their sanitary arrange-
ments leave much to be desired. The ordinary charges are $2-2V2 per
day (higher in the City of Mexico). The place of chambermaids is usually
taken by 'Mozos', or boys. Small fees are expected and efficacious. Neither
soap nor matches are provided in the bedrooms. Wine and foreign beer
are dear, native beer and pulque fp. 649) cheap.
Passports. Custom House. Passports are not necessary in Mexico,
but may sometimes prove convenient. The custom-house examination is
generally conducted courteously and leniently, and scarcely concerns things
likely to be in the possession of the ordinary tourist. Articles purchased
in Mexico are often liable to duty at the American frontier, where the
traveller is also exposed to the inquisition of quarantine and immigration
officials. A detention of several days may result from an incautious visit
to any district affected by yellow fever.
Money. Expenses. The nominal unit of the Mexican monetary
system is the Feso (dollar), divided into 100 Centavos (cents), though the
50-centavo piece (half-dollar) is now relatively more common. The new
law establishes the following coins : Gold, 10 and 5 peso pieces; Silver, 50,
20, and 10 c. ; Nickel, 5 c. ; Copper, 2 and 1 c. Banknotes of 5, 10, 20, 50,
lOU, and 1000 pesos are issued by several banks, but the Government
offices accept only those of the Banco Nacional and the Banco de Londres.
The old expressions ifedto (6V2C.) SLixd. Real {p\. Reales ; I21/2C.) are still in
constant use, though the coins they represent no longer circulate (dos
reales = 25c., cuatro reales = 50c., seis reales = 75c., ocho reales = S 1). —
The cost of a short tour in Mexico should not exceed $8-10 a day. A
Mexican dollar is worth about 50 c. American gold. Mexican money may be
bought cheaply in New York, and it is advisable to obtain a good supply of
it before entering Mexico. A fair rate of exchange can, however, be obtained
in the City of Mexico. American money may also be exchanged at the
frontier. Drafts on New York banks are a good form in which to carry
large sums, and realize the highest rate of exchange in the City of Mexico.
Language, A slight acquaint:mce with Spanish will be found of great
service in travelling in Mexico. Vowels have the pronunciation of Con-
tinental Europe; consonants are pronounced as in English, with the follow-
ing exceptions : c before e and i sounds like th in thin, before a, 0, u, 1, r,
and at the end of a word = k; g before e and i = guttural h; h is silent;
11 = ly •, j = ch in loch ; z = th in then. It should be noted that Mexican
pronunciation is not quite identical with that of Spain. The transliterations
in these pages do not claim to be more than approximately accurate.
MONTERREY. 111. Route. 641
Postal Arrangements. A list of the insufficiently addressed letters
received by each mail is usually exhibited at the post-office, and in
applying for one of these it is necessary to show a visiting card or some
similar identification. Letters addressed to the large hotels in the City
of Mexico are delivered at the hotel-office. The postal rates for domestic
letters and for those to the U. S. A. or Canada is 5c. per Vzoz-? for'letters
to other countries of the Postal Union 10 c. per 1/2 oz. Letters from the
U. S. to Mexico are sent at the TJ. S. domestic rate (2 c. per oz.).
Bull Fights are still fairly common in Mexico. Persons of delicate sen-
sibilities should, however, avoid these degrading and disgusting spectacles.
Bibliography. Mexican guidebooks are published by Scribner's Sons,
Reau Campbell, and Hoeck (p. 651) ; the folders and pamphlets issued by the
railway companies are also often useful. The traveller should be familiar
with PrescotVs 'Conquest of Mexico'. Other works include those by David
A. Wells^ A. H. Foil, Lumholtz, Mrs. Alec Tweedie, Flandrau, Stnrr, Edwards,
Hans Gadow, and C. F. Lummis; 'Mexico of the Twentieth Century', by Percy
F.Martin (1908); 'Mexico and her People of To-day', by Nevin 0. Winter
(1907); and 'Mexico, its Social Evolution', a monumental work edited by
Justus Sierra (trans, by G. Sentinon; 1906). Gen. Lew Wallace's 'The Fair God'
and H. Rider Eaggard^s 'Moctezuma's Daughter' are stories of Mexican life.
For the antiquities, see 'Report of an Archseological Tour in Mexico in
1881', by A. F. A. Bandelier. — About 160 sheets of the General Map of the
Government Topographical Survey (1 : 100,000) have been issued. The Carta
de Ferrocarriles de los Estados Unidos Mexicanos (1 : 2,000,000) is an official
railway map.
111. From Laredo to the City of Mexico.
837 M. (802 M. by the direct line; see p. 643) E'ational Railroad of
Mexico (Ferrocarril Nadonal de Mexico) in BSi/z hrs. (fare $ 38.78, Mexican
currency; sleeper $9, Mexican currency).
This line affords the shortest and most direct route to the City of
Mexico (from New Orleans 1525 M. by the direct line, from St. Louis
1878 M.) and passes through fine scenery. Baggage from the United States
should be 'cheeked' to New Laredo , where the Mexican custom - house
examination takes place and luggage is re-checked. ■ — Travellers should
be prepared for a good deal of annoyance from dust.
Laredo, see p. 594. The train crosses the Rio Grande del Norte
into Mexico and halts at (1 M.) Nuevo Laredo or New Laredo (370 ft. ;
see above; U, S. Con., A. B. G-arrett), a place of 6548 inhabitants.
The first part of the journey lies through a dreary plain of cactus
and mezquite. To the right, beyond (70 M.) Lampazos (1150 ft.;
Rail. Restaurant), rises the Mesa de los Catujanos (1500-2000 ft).
— 109 M. Villaldama.
167 M. Monterrey or Monterey (1790 ft. ; Bardn, Iturhide, $ 8-41/2 ;
U. S. Con. Gen. PUlip C. Manna; Brit. Vice- Con. and Ger. Con.), the
capital of the State of Nuevo Ledn, a city of (1900) 62,266 inhab.,
situated in a beautiful valley, between the Cerro de la Silla (4150 ft.)
on the E. and the Cerro de la Mitra (3620 ft.) on the W., is frequented
as a winter - resort. It is the most important manufacturing city of
N. Mexico, containing large foundries, steel-works, and breweries.
The picturesque Episcopal Palace, now government property, was
built in 1782. The TopocMco Hot Springs (Hotel, $2^/2), which lie
41*
642 Route 111. SAN LUIS POTOSI. From Laredo to
3 M. to the N.W., are reached hy street-car (return-fare, incl. bath,
50 c.) or by the branch - railway to (11 M.) Reata, also a station on
the line from Diaz to Dnrango (p. 644). At Monterrey we cross the
railway from Torreon to Tampico (see p. 646).
Beyond Monterrey the train ascends through the narrow valley of
the San Juan, amid grand monntain-scenery (to the right, the Sierra
de la Pnila; to the left, the Sierra Madre, p. 639). Just short of
(174 M.) Santa Catarina a remarkable circular opening throuffh the
mountain is seen to the left, at an elevation of 3000ft. At (187 M.)
Garcia are some interesting caves. — 233 M. Saltillo (5250 ft. ; Hotel
de la Plaza, Coahuila, $3-5; U. S. Con., T. W. Voetter; Brit. Vice-
Con.), the capital of Coahuila, with (1900) 23. 996 inhab., was formerly
famous for its manufacture of zarapes (Mexican blankets), now, ap-
parently, a lost art. Branch-lines run hence to the W. to (190 M.)
Torredn (see p. 646), to the N. to (44 M.) Pareddn (p. 646), and to the
S. to (78 M.) Concepcidn del Oro, the centre of a rich copper-mining
district. — Beyotid Saltillo we cross the battlefield of Buena Vista
(Feb. 23rd, 1847). At (257 M.) Cameras (6500 ft.) we reach the
top of the central plateau of Mexico (p. 639). The line descends
a little and runs in a straight direction across a level plain. — 353 M.
Vanegas (Rail. Restaurant) is the junction of a branch-line to (14 M.)
Cedral and (28 M.) Matehuala (Hotel Angelina), a small town of
(1900) 15,0b0 inhabitants. — 367 M. Catorce (5940 ft.) is the
station for the rich silver-mining town of the same name (6 M. to
the E.). A little farther on we cross the Tropic of Cancer and enter
the Torrid Zone (monument to the right; 6130 ft.).
475 M. San Luis Potosi (6158 ft.; Sanz, Progreso, $3; Rail.
Restaurant, meals $ 1 ; U. S. Con., G. A. Bucklin; Ger. Con., G. Unna),
capital of the state of the same name, a city of (1900) 61.019 inhab.,
owes its importance to the rich silver-mines in its vicinity. Among
the chief points of interest are the Cathedral (with a clock given by
Philip II. of Spain), the Mint, the Alameda (with statue of Hidalgo,
see below), the Plaza Mayor, the Markets, the Governor's Palace, the
City Hall, the Palace of Justice, and several Churches. The San Pedro
Mine should be visited.
Railwa\8 run hence to Tampico (p. 647), on the Gulf of Mexico, and
to Aguascalientt e(p. 647).
From (557 M.) Rincdn a branch-line runs past (31 M.) San Luis
de la Paz, a small mining-town with 9747 inhab., to (37 M.) Pozos.
— 560 M. Dolores Hidalgo is named in honour of the patriot Hidalgo
(p. 645), who was cure' of this parish. — 583 M. San Miguel deAllende
(5955 ft.; Progreso, San Miguel, R. from 50c.), a city of 12,740 in-
hab., at the base of the Cerro de Montezuma, contains the only
Gothic church in Mexico (early 19th cent. ; by an unt'-ained native
architect) and excellent public baths. It was the birthplace of the
patriot Allende (p. 645). for whom it is named. — At (606 M.)
Gonzalez Junction (Empalme Gonzalez; Rail. Restaurant) the line
the City of Mexico. TOLUCA. 111. Route. 643
divides. The tlirongli-carriages proceed by the E. and shorter branch
(main standard-gange), which runs via (634 M.) Queretaro (also a
station on the Mexican Central Railway, see p. 649)5 Suichapdn
(701 M.), picturesqnely situated in a beautiful valley, with a fine
chuich; Nopala (713 M.); Huehuetoca (771 M.); and Tacuba (798 M.)
to (802 M.) the City of Mexico {Colonia Station; see p. 650).
The longer but somewhat more interesting "W. branch (narrow-
gauge) follows the valley of the Laya (views to the right). Farther
on the vegetation becomes more tropical. — 618 M. Celaya (5770 ft. ;
Central, Guadalupe, Gomez), a city of 25,565 inhab., at the inter-
section of the Mexican National and Mexican Central railways
(comp. p. 649), is a place of some importance, with fine old churches
(Our Lady of Carmen, etc.) and good baths. DuZces (sweetmeats;
15-50 c. per box), strawberries, and opals (frequently 'faked') are
offered for sale at the station. — 642 M. Salvatierra (De la Luz),
with (1900) 11.008 inhab. and many churches conspicuous by the
glazed tiling of their domes. — 660 M. Acdmbaro (6085 ft. ; Rail.
Hotel & Restaurant), with 8006 inhab.
Fkom Agambaeo to Ukdapan, 143 M., railway in 9 hrs. — 57 M. Morelia
(several hotels), with 38,606 inhab., the capital of tbe state of Michoacdn. —
95 M. Pdtzcuaro (698oft. •, several hotels), with 7210 inhab., situated on the
beautiful lake of that name. On the E. bank of the lakt^ st ind the remains
of the old city of Tzintzuntzan (launch from Patzcuaro in 3 hrs.), once the
capital of the Tarasco Indians, the former occupants of Mic oa'-an. The
old church contains an Entombment ascribed to Titian and said to have
been presented by Philip H. of Spain. — 143 M Uruapdn (5'J85 ft.; Oriente),
with 9860 inhab. and extensive cofiFee- plantations. About 6 M. to the E.
is the fine Tall of Tzardcvaciia or Cedozo^ in a wooded ravine (two leaps
of llO ft, each). — The railway is to be prolonged to the Pacific Ocean.
Our line now turns to the S.E. (left) and ascends through the
valley of the Lerma (p. 648 ; views to the left). 698 M. Maravatio
(6610 ft; several hotels) is the junction of a line to (53 M.)
Zitdcuaro. — 721 M. Tepetongo (7650 ft.); 736 M. Tultenango,
near the rich gold-mining district of El Oro; 751 M. Flor de Maria
(8500 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant , meals $ 1). We threa d a tunnel and
enter the Valley of Toluca.
792 M. Toluca (8744 ft. ; Ledn de Oro, R. from 75 c. ; Andueza,
$21/2-31/25 with electric light and a restaurant; Gran Sociedad, R.
from 75 c. ; Gran Restaurant Monte Carlo, well spoken of), the
capital of the State of Mexico, is a prosperous and clean-looking city
of (1900) 25,940 inhab., splendidly situated in a fertile valley,
among lofty mountains, at a height of 8650 ft. above the sea. Its
attractions include the State Buildings, fine Markets, interesting
Churches, and quaint Portal es; while linen 'drawn-work', pottery,
and other souvenirs may be purchased.
Toluca is the junction of lines to (10 BI.) San Juan de las Buerias and
to (19 M.) Aila, via (151/2 M.) Tenango.
The ascent of the 'Nevado de Toluca or Xinantecatl (14,980 ft.), a
snow-clad volcanic mountain rising to the S., may be accomplished in one
long day (there and back). The view is superb.
644 Route 1V2. EAGLE PASS.
The ran from Toluca to Mexico reveals some of the finest scenery
in Mexico. The train runs towards the E. and beyond the Indian
town of Ocoyoacac, seen far "below ns to the right, begins to ascend
the La Cruz Mts. (Sierra Madre ; views to the right). We follow the
windings of the R'Co Lerma (p. 643). To the right towers the Nevada
de Toluca (p. 643). 805 M. Jajalpa ('Hahalpa'; 8870 ft). Much
maguey (p. 649) is cultivated in this district. 811 M. Salazar. At
(812 M.) La Cima (9835 ft.) we reach the summit and begin the
descent, obtaining magnificent ** Views of the Valley of Mexico^
with its lakes, the City of Mexico in the centre, and the grand snow-
clad volcanoes of Popocatepetl (r.) and Ixtaccihuatl (1. ; p. 654) in
the background. At (820 M.) Bos Bios we cross the Bio Hondo by
a lofty trestle. Numerous lateral ravines (barrancas) are also crossed.
Farther on, Chapultepec (p. 654) is conspicuous to the right. 831 M.
Naucalpdn. Beyond (834 M.) Tacuha the tree of the Noche Triste
(p. 654) is seen to the left.
837 M. City of Mexico (Colonia Station), see p. 650.
112. From Eagle Pass to the City of Mexico.
1090 M. Mexican Inteenational Railroad (Ferrocarril Internacional
Mexicano) in 421/2 brs. (fare S 51.81, sleeper $ 9, Mex. currencv ; from Spof-
ford Junction $ 32.30, New Orleans $ 52.70, New York $ 85.20, U. S. currency).
Baggage is examined and re-checked at Ciudad Porfirio Diaz.
Eagle Pass, a small town of 3000 inhab., lies on the N. or Amer-
ican bank of the Rio Grande del Norte (see p. 591). The train crosses
the river by an iron bridge, 310 yds. long, and halts at Ciudad Por-
firio Diaz, formerly called Piedras Negras (720 ft. ; Hotels; U.S. Con.,
Luther T. Ellsworth), a Mexican city of (1900) 13,468 inhab., in
the State of Codhuila. Picturesque Mexican figures, the men in som-
breros and zarapes, the women in gaily coloured rebozos, appear at
once. — The train ascends steadily towards the great Mexican table-
land (p. 639), traversing at first an arid and monotonous desert.
Few houses are seen except an occasional rancho, of stone or adobe,
and little vegetation except yuccas, mezquite, and cacti. 25 M. Nava
(1065 ftO: 32 M. Allende (1230 ft.); 51 M. Peyotes (1595 ft.);
721/2 M. Sabinas (1115 ft. ; Hotel del Ferrocarril), in a coal-producing
district, the junction of lines to Hondo and Bosita; 82 M. Soledad
(1215 ft.); 98 M. Aura (1485 ft.); 123 M. Eermanas (1300 ft.);
148 M. Monclova (1925ft.; Rail. Hotel and Restaurant; 14,580 in-
hab.), the junction of aline to (42 M.) Cuatro Cienegas ; 159 M.
Castano (2455 ft.) ; 181 M. Bajdn (2765 ft.). From (212 M.) Beata
(2950 ft.) a branch-line runs to (72 M.) Monterrey, on the Mexican
National R. R. (see p. 641). — 223 M. Trevino (2920 ft.; Robles).
At (2541/2 M.) Jaral (3750 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant), where we may
be said to have fairly reached the greatMexican plateau, the line turns
to the right (W.) and now runs at nearly the same level. — 297 M.
CHIHUAHUA. 113. Route. 645
Paila (3900 ft.) ; 334V2 M. Bola (3575 ft), at the S. end of the large
Laguna de Parras; 350 M. Sornos (3595 ft.), the junction for (14 M.)
San Pedro (several hotels ; 8997 inhab.) 5 369 M. Matamoros (3650 ft. ;
V. S. Consul, C. E. Miller), the junction of a hranch-line to
(431/2 M.) Tlahualilo.
At (383 M.) Torre6n (3720 ft. ; p. 646) we join the Mexican
Central Railway. — To the (1090 M.) City of Mexico, see R. 113.
The Mexican International Eailroad goes on to (540 M. from Eagle Pass")
Durango (6562 ft.; 31,092 inhab. in 1900; several hotels; U. S. Con. and
Ger, Vice- Con.), the capital of the state of its own name, at the foot
of the ferriferous Cerro de Mercado. — A railway runs hence to the N.W. to
(37 M.) (kmatldn., (103 M.) Santiago Fapasquiaro, and (135 M.) Tepehuanes.
113. From El Paso to the City of Mexico.
1224 M. Mexican Centeal Railway (Ferrocarril Central Mexicano) in
51 hrs. (fare $60.41 Mex. currency; sleeper $9; return-tickets, valid for
9 months, to City of Mexico, from St. Louis $76.15, from Kansas City $69.95,
from New Orleans $ 63.75, all U. S. currency). Side-trip tickets are issued,
to holders of through- tickets to California, from El Paso to Mexico and
back to Eagle Pass via R. 112, or vice versa, $40). This line is the direct
route between the City of Mexico and California and the West (comp.
RR. 87, 95). Baggage is re-checked and examined at Ciudad Juarez (comp.
p. 644). — The dust on this line is also troublesome (comp. p. 641).
El Paso., see p. 591. The train crosses the Rfo Grande to (2/4 M.)
Ciudad Juarez ('Wahrez'), formerly Ei Paso del Norte (3800 ft.; Rail.
Restaurant; TJ. S. Con. aiid Ger. Vice-Con.), with the Mexican custom-
house, an interesting old church, and a statue of Juarez (p. 653).
A railway runs hence to the S.W. to (149 M.) Gasas Grandes and
(155 M.) Terrazas.
Our route at first lies through the State of Chihuahua ('Chee"
wah-wah') and offers little of interest. 30 M. Samalayuca (4300 ft.) ;
95 M. Ojo Caliente (4090ft.) ; 112 M. Moctezuma (Rail. Restaurant);
139 M. Oallego (5450 ft.) ; 194 M. Sauz (5170 ft.). We cross the
Chubiscar to —
225 M. Chihuahua (4635 ft. ; Palacio, Robinson, R. from $ II/2;
Ahumada., R. from $2; tramway; U. S. Con., L. A. Martin:, Brit, and
Ger. Yice-Con.), the capital of the state of that name, a busy city with
(1900) 30,098 inhab., in a hiU-girt plain. It was founded in 1539.
The chief object of interest is the fine *Parroquia, or parish-church,
dating from 1711-89. Behind the Banco Minero Chihuahuense is a
monument marking the spot where Miguel Hidalgo and Ignacio
Allende, leaders of the revolution of 1810, were executed in 1811.
The patriots were previously imprisoned in the Casa de Moneda
(Mint). The Plaza and Alamedas are pleasant, and the old Aqueduct
is interesting.
A day's excursion may be made to the Santa Eulalia Silver Mines.,
which are said to produce an average of 20,000 tons of ore monthly. Rail-
way to (15 M.) Santa Eulalia in 1 hr. — Chihuahua is also a station on
the Kansas City, Mexico, & Osient Railway, which will ultimately con-
nect Kanpias City with the Pacific Coast of Mexico. At present the W.
646 Route 113. ZACATECAS. From El Paso to
extension of this railway runs from Chihuahua, past (51 M.) San Andris,
(82 M.) San Antonio, and (122 M.) Minaca, to (195 M.) Sanchez. From this
point the line is being prolonged, for 274 M. more, to Topolohampo.
Beyond Chihnahtia the line descends. We cross the Rio Santa
Cruz at [279 M.) Ortiz, and the Rio Nonoava near (326 M.) Santa
Rosalia (4020 ft. ; 8909 inhah.), with hot springs. — 371 M. Jimenez
('Heemenez' ; 4530 ft. ; Rail. Restaniant) is a city of 9322 inhah.
on the Florida, the jnnction of a railway to (55 M.) Parral, a town
of 16,382 inhah., the centre of a rich mining-region, (67 M.) Adrian,,
and (96 M.) Rosario. The dust on this part of the ronte is very trying.
From (417M.)-E5ccZdn theMexicanNorthemRailway mns to (78 M.)
the great silver-mining district of Sierra Mojada. — Near (437 M.)
Ceballos (3900 ft.) we enter the State of Durango. We now traverse
the Mapimi Basin, in which cotton, sngar, maize, and wheat are
produced, and cross the Rio Nazas.
517 M. Torreon (3720 ft.; Hotel Salvador, well equipped;
Sternau, with restaurant, good hut rather expensive; Francia, well
spoken of; Rail. Restaurant; U. S. Consular Agent and Ger. Vice-
Con.), a thriving city of ca. 25,000 inhab., with a hrisk trade and
considerable industry, is the junction of the Mexican International
Railroad (R. 112). An electric railway runs hence to (3 M.) Lerdo
(3725 ft.), a cotton-trading place of 17,795 inhabitants.
Feom Toeeeon to Montebret and Tampico, 551 M., Central Railway in
36^/4 hrs. (spending the night at Monterrey, fare $ 36.44). — 42 M. San Pedro
(p. 645) ; 141 M. Hipdlito ; 181 M. Pared^n. junction of a line to Saltillo (p. 642) ;
229 M. Monterrey (p. 641); 262 M. San Juan; 320 M. Linares (pop. 70-6);
405 M. Victoria (EspaSol), capital of the state of Tamaulipas, with (1900)
10,086 inhab ; 490 M. Gonzalez. — 551 31. Tampico, see p. 647.
Feom Toreeon to Saltillo, 190 M., Ferrorarril Coahvila y Pacifico in
141/2 hrs. (fare $ 9.39). — 35 M. Homos ; 90 M. Parras (Rail. Restaurant ;
pop. 6476) ; 148 M. General Cepeda. — 190 M. Saltillo, see p. 642.
The country traversed beyond Torreon is arid and sterile, and
sand-spouts are frequently seen. The mountains become higher, one
near (562 M.) Jimulco reaching a height of 10,280 ft. Numerous
large haciendas are passed. The train ascends steadily towards the
top of the great central plateau of Mexico (p. 639). 615 M. Symon
(5145 ft.). At (643 M.) Camacho (5400 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant) we
enter the State of Zacatecas. 680 M. Pacheco ; 700 M. La Colorada
(6000 ft.); 750 M. Fresnillo (6860 ft.). Beyond (768 M.) Calera
(7050 ft.) we begin to ascend rapidly and the scenery becomes very
picturesque.
785 M. Zacatecas (8045 ft. ; Colon, Frances, $ 21/2-4), a city of
(1900) 32,856 inhab., romantically situated in a narrow ravine, offers
several points of interest to the stranger. It is still one of the centres
of the silver-mining of Mexico , though its produce has of late fallen
off. The Market Place, in the centre of the city (reached from the
railway-station by tramway), presents a very picturesque appearance,
with its large fountain, whence the water-carriers fetch their supplies
for the city's use. Near by is the Cathedral (1612-1752), with an
the City of Mexico. AGUASCALIENTES. 113. Route. 647
elaborately carved *Fagade. The Municipal Palace (with its at-
tractive conrtyard) and the Mint are also within easy reach.
A visit may be paid to one of the Silver ReducHon Works ^ in which
the processes of reducing the ore are carried on after a highly primitive
fashion, but a vis^t to a silver-mine is more conveniently managed at
Guanajuato (p. 648). — A splendid ^View is obtained from the Bufa^ a
mass of porphyry rising 500 ft. above the city and crowned with a small
chapel, originally dating from 17!^ but rebuilt in 1794. On March 2nd,
1871, the Revolutionary troops were defeated here by the Juarez forces
after a sanguinary struggle.
Zacatecas is connected with (6 M.) Guadalupe by a tramway, down
which the cars descend by gravity in 1/2 br., while they are drnwn up
again by mules in I-IV4 hr. At Guadalupe is the fine ''Church of Nuestra
Smora de Guadalupe (1721), with an elaborately decorated interior and
a few fair paintings. The Chapel of the Purisima is especially gorgeous.
The old convent adjacent contains a College and Orphan Asylum. — Good
pottery may be bought at Zacatecas and Guadalupe.
On leaving Zacatecas the train again descends rapidly (seats to
the left), affording striking *Yiews of the Oriental-looking city and
the monntains. Numerous mines and smelting works are seen on hoth
sides. The engineering difficulties overcome by the railway both in
reaching and leaving Zacatecas are remarkable. 824 M. Soledad.
Several lofty peaks are seen in the distance to the left.
860 M. Aguascalientes (6180 ft. ; Bellina, American, $ 41/2-8 ;
Washington, Mexican. $3-6; Rail. Restaurant; U. S. Con., W. D.
Shaughnessy), a pretty little city with (1900) 37,816 inhab. and a large
silver and copper smelter, is the capital of the small state of the same
name and is widely known for its hot springs and for its 'drawn work'.
The pretty Alameda leads to the E. from t e station (tramway), which
is itself 1 M. to the E. of the city (tramway), to the Hot Springs (ca. 95°
Fahr.), each enclosed by a small bath-house (fee about 15 c). The over-
flow from the springs is carried ofif by a small canal skirting the Alameda.
The best baths, fed by a conduit from a reserved spring, are close to the
railway-station (fee about 25 c). — Some of the C/iwrcTies of Aguascalientes
are intei'esting, and the Public Squares are g:iy with luxuriant vegetation.
From Aguascalientes to San Luis Potosi and Tampigo, 415 M.. railway
in I9V4 hrs. (fa:e $ 20.47) This division of the Mexican Central Railway passes
through some of the finest scenery in Mexico. — 68 M. Salmas, with large
salt works. At (140 M.) San Luis Potosi (p. 642; Rail. Kestaurant) we
cross the Mexican National Railway. — We now descend gradually by a
series of terraces, traversing the *San Ysidro and other beautiful valleys.
Beyond (257 M.) Cardenas (3800 ft. ; Rail. Restaurant) the line drops abruptly
into the CanoasValley and then penetrat^^s the tine 'Tamasopo Canyon., thread-
ing many tunnels. 298 M. Rascon (1000 ft. 5 Rail. Restaurant). Other fine
canyons and waterfalls are passed farther on. From (340 M.) Taninul we
may visit the interesting Choy Cave, over which the railway passes. — 415 M.
Tampico (lOOft., Hidalgo, Southern, R. from $ 1; Continental, R. from % 11/4;
Sol, Pancardo, $2-3V2; U. S., Brit., and Ger. Con.), an old town of 16,313
inhab., on the Pdnuco, 7 M. from it« mouth in the Gulf of Mexico, has regular
steamboat communication w^th New York ($50), New Orleans ($34.55),
Mobile, Galveston ($25), Havana. Hamburg, and other ports. There is
good tarpon fl.-hing here. — The train goes on to (421 M.) La Barra.
Near (890 M.) Encarnacidn (6090 ft.) we cross the Rfo Encarna-
cidn and enter the State of Jalisco. 929 M. Lagos (6150 ft.; Plaza),
with about 16,000 inhabitants. Beyond (946 M.) Pedrito we enter
the fertile and sU.yeT-va.mmg State of Guanajuato ('Wahnawahto').
648 Route 113. SILAO. From EL Paso to
■ 966 M. Leon (5865 ft.; Hotel de Diligmcias, $272), a city of
(1900) 58,426 inhab. , with mannfactures of saddlery and other
leathern goods and of rehozos (p. 644), contains a Cathedral and
several pretty Plazas. Visitors will notice the fences of the Organ
Cactus. — 936 M. Silao (5830ft.; Redon; Victoria; Rail. Restaurant)^
a town of 15,463 inhab., with handsome churches and gardens.
From Silao a brancli-railway runs tbrougb a canyon to (11 M.) Marfil,
and along a narrow gorge to (141/2 M, •, fare 87 c.) Guanajuato (6835 ft. ; Unidn,
§ 3; American, well spoken of; U. S. Con. Agent, Brit, and Ger. Vice-Con.),
a higUy interesting silver-mining city, founded in 1554. Pop. (1900) 40,580.
The houses cluster in the bottom of the ravine or cling to its sides, while
the fortress-like smelting-works add to the general picturesqueness. In 1905
Guanajuato was overwhelmed by a flood, which caused the loss of 500 lives
and did enormous damage. Above the town rises a large square rock (view),
forming a conspicuous landmark for many miles round. The chief source
of interest in and near Guanajuato is the Silver Mines, including the rich
Veta Madre, a vein 30-160 ft. in width, not yet exhausted, although it has
been worked for a distance of 10 M. The mines are more easily visited than
those in other parts of Mexico, being entered by stone stairways; and
orders of admission may be obtained from the Administrador. The Reduc-
tion Worlis are also interesting; a few are worked by horse or mule power
('patio process'), with the primitive methods of 300 years ago. A visit may
be paid to the large Alhondigo de Granaditas, dominating the city and now
used as a prison. The Teatro Juarez is one of the handsomest theatres
in America. Other points of interest are the churches, the Catacombs at
the Panteon or Cemetery (with numerous mummified bodies), numerous
handsome private residences, and the fine public and private gardens. The
water-carriers bear curious long slender water-jars (almost peculiar to
Guanajuato).
The district now traversed is fertile and diversifled. At (1005 M.)
Irapuato (5765 ft.; Pan-American; Guerrero), a town of 19,640 in-
hab., fine fresh strawberries are offered for sale every day in the
year at the station (25-50 c. per basket).
From Ikapdato to Guadalajaka, 161 M., railway in 71/2 hrs. (fare $ 7.93).
This line runs through the valley of the Eio Lerma, one of the most fertile
districts in Mexico, and is to be continued to the Pacific coast, — From
(78 M.) Tuvicuaro a branch-line runs via (26 M.) Zamora (Coldn), with
12,533 inhab. and numerous churches, to (87 M.) Los Reyes. — 95 M. La Barca
(several hotels), near the E. end of Lake Chapala (see below). — From
(112 M.) Ocotldn, the junction of a branch-line to (22 M.) Atotonilco (p. 658),
a steamer plies thrice weekly across Lake Chapala (TO M. in length) to (3 hrs.)
the prettily situated bathing-resort of Chapala (Hotels Arzapalo, La Palma,
Huber). — From (136 M.) Atequiza stages run to (2 hrs.) Chapala (see
above). — From (146 M.) El Castillo a tramway runs to (4 M.) the beautiful
*Falls of Juanacatlan ('Wahnacatlan'), on the Lerma, 70 ft. high and 600 ft.
wide (best seen from the terrace of the electric works on the left bank).
Close bv is a cotton-mill for 1000 operatives.
161 M. Guadalajara ('Wahdalahara' ; 5055 ft.; Garcia, with baths, $ 3-6;
Cosmopoliia, $ 3; Roma; Palacio; U. S. and Ger. Con. ; Brit. Vice-Con.), the
capital of Jalisco (p. 647), is a rich and progressive place with 101,208 inhab.
and manufactures of fine pottery, rebozos (p. 644), cotton, silk, etc. It is
cleaner and more regularly laid out than most Mexican cities and contains
many points of interest for the stranger. Xear the centre of the city stands
the Cathedral, a fine edifice completed in 1618, with a dome and two lofty
towers. In the sacristy is an Assumption ascribed to Murillo. To the S. of
this, abutting on the Plaza de Armas (band thrice weekly), is the Sagrario
(1808-43). On the E. side of the same square is the Governor's Palace, while
on the S. and W, are the Portales de Cortazar and de Bolivar, contaimng
many of the best shops. — The Church of San Josi in the Plaza de Nunez,
the City of Mexico. QUERETARO. 113. Route. 649
is a gorgeous modern edifice, elaborately adorned witli gilding and painting
and said to have cost $ 1,000,000. — On the N. side of the city is the inter-
esting Hospital de BeUn, and on the E. side, not far from the pretty Alameda
(military music), is the huge ''Hospicio de Pohres (lOCK) inmates), with its
beautiful flower -filled 'patios' and departments for men, women and
children (incl. a Kindergarten and a creche), the deaf and dumb, and the
blind ('drawn work' and other articles for sale). On the opposite side of
the town is the Penitentiary^ on the radiating principle (visitors admitted).
The "^Faseo, running to the S. from the Alameda, afifords a fine walk or drive.
— Other important buildings are the Bishop'' s Palace, the Mint, the City Hall,
and the Teatro Degollado, one of the finest in Mexico. — San Pedro and
other points in the suburbs are also interesting.
Beyond Guadalajara the line now goes on to (55 M.) Ameca (several
hotels), a town of 4T39 inhab., with sugar-refining and mining industries.
Another line runs to the S. from Guadalajara, via (84 M.) Sayula
(7888 inhab.), (102 M.) ZapotUn (17,596 inhab.), and (119- M.) Tiixpan (Brit.
Vice-Con.) to (162 M.) CoWma (20,698 inhab. ; Frances, Jardin, Europa; Brit.
Vice-Con. and Ger. Con.), the capital of the state of that name. Colima is
connected by a narrow-gauge railway with (60 M.) the seaport of Manzanillo
(U. S. Consul, A. T. Haeberle; Brit. Vice-Consul).
1017 M. Salamanca (Colon, Juarez; pop. 13,724) is famous for
its gloves. Beyond (1043 M.) Celaya (see p. 643), we cross the
Mexican National R. R. (R. Ill), and beyond (1060 M.) Mariscala
we enter the State of Queretaro.
1071m. Queretaro (5950ft. 5 Internacional , from $3, good;
Ferrocarril, Gran, from $ 3 ; Col6n, R. 75 c. ; cab 50 c. per hr.), a
picturesque city with (1900) 38,016 inhab., is pleasantly situated in
a fertile vaUey. The domes and towers of numerous churches rise
above the other buildings, the most interesting being the Cathedral
and Santa Clara. It possesses an important woollen industry. Opals
are found in great abundance in the neighbourhood.
Perhaps the chief interest of Queretaro is its connection with the last
days of the unfortunate Emp. Maximilian, who was besieged here in 1867
by the Republican troops under Escobedo. The city surrendered on May
19th, and a month later Maximilian, with his adherents Miramon and
Mejia, was shot on the Cerro de las Campanas, a hill to the W. of the
town. The spot is now marked by a chapel and affords a fine *View of
Queretaro, embowered in greenery. The Capuchin Convent, in which Maxi-
milian was confined before his execution, is now a private house, but
visitors are admitted to his room.
In leaving Queretaro the line passes under the fine * Aqueduct
constructed in 1726-38 by the Marquis de Villar del Aguila to pro-
vide the city with water. Some of the arches are nearly 100 ft. high.
To the left, 2 M. from Queretaro, in a romantic ravine, is the large
Hercules Mill^ the largest cotton-mill in Mexico (1800 workmen).
On this part of the journey we see immense fields of the Maguey or
Century Plant (Agave Americana), cultivated by the Mexicans for the sake
of its sap, which is converted into the national beverage Pulque. The
plants are sometimes 10-12 ft. high. A spirituous liquor named Mezcal
or Tequila is distilled from the roots of another variety of agave.
Beyond (1106 M.) San Juan del Rio (6245ft. ; Rail. Restaurant;
8224 inhab.) the line ascends rapidly, passing the plain of (1124M.)
Cazadero and reaching its highest point (8135 ft.) just beyond
(1148 M.) Marques. The descent hence to Mexico is very fine. —
1174 M. Tula (6660 ft; Moctezuma), a town of about 1700 inhab.
650 Route 114. MEXICO.
is believed to have been founded by tbe Toltecs and contains inter-
esting remains ascribed to tbat people (guides at the hotels). A line
runs hence to (^45 M.) Pachuca (see p. 655) in 2 hrs. — Beyond
(1185 M.) El Salto, where we join a branch of the Mexican National
R.R., we skirt the Tajo de Nochistongo (right), a canal-cutting made
by the Spaniards in 1607-8 to drain the lakes in the Valley of Mexico
(comp. p. 652). It is I2V2M. long, 130-165 ft. deep, and 260-330 ft.
wide. The majestic snow-capped peaks of Ixtaccihuatl and Pojjo-'
catepetl (p. 654) come into view ahead of us. The line again ascends
a little. 1195 M. Euehuetoca (7410 ft.).
1224 M. City of Mexico, see below.
114. The City of Mexico.
Railway Stations. Mexican Central and Cuernavaca Pacific Station
(PI. B, 1, 2), Calle de Hina ; Mexican Railway Station (PI. B. 1, 2; Vera Cruz),
Calle de Mina-, Mexican National Siafiov (PI. A, 3; 'Colonia Station'); Inter-
oceanic Station (beyond PI. Gr, 4)-, Hidalgo tk N.E. Railway Station (comp.
PI. G, 1), Peralvillo, to tlie K.E.; Jico and San Rafael Station (PL G, 5;
Apapasco), Calle Cuaulatemotzin. City Railway Ticket Office, cor. of Avenida
del Cinco de Mayo and Calle de Vergara (PI. E, 3).
Hotels (comp. p. 640). Iturbide (PI. a; E, 3), Avenida de San Francisco,
a large house enclosing a roomy central court, once tlie residence of the
Emp. Iturbide (p. 652), R. from $3 (elevator), good; Sanz Hotel, Calle de
la Marisiala (PI. D, 3), R. from $ 3, D. S 2; St. Francis (PI. f ; C, 3), oppo-
site the statue of Carlos IV. (p. 653), R. from $3; Bazae (PI. b; E, 3),
Calle del Espiritu Santo 8, R. from S2V2; Palacio (PI. e; E, 4), Puente del
Espi'ritu Santo 10, R. from S 3; San Caelo-^ (PI. c; E, 3), Calle del Coliseo
:Kuevo, R. from S IV2; Gillow (PI. d; E, 3), Calle de San Jose el Real, well
spoken of, R. from S IV2; Reforma (PI. g; B, 3), Paseo de 1h Reforma 129,
pleasantly situated some way from the centre of the city, R. from S3; Gdar-
DiOLA ( Kingman," s), Puente de San Francisco 14 (PI. E, 3), R. from $ 2V2;
Porter's, Calle San Juan de Letran 12 (PI. D, 3), R. from $ 3, well spoken of.
Restaurants at the above hotels; Chapid' epec . Paseo de la Reform a
3/4 M. from the ^ity, fashionable, military music on Sun. afternoon; Sylvain,
Avenida Diez y Seis de Septiembre (formerly Calle del Cidiseo Viejo: PI. E,
3, 4), good French cookery; Porter's American Rei'taurant, see above; Caf4 de
Paris, Avenida Diez a Seis de Septiembre (formerly Calle del Coliseo Viejo
(PI. E, 3, 4; fish); dafd Restaurant Coldn, Paseo de la Keforma (PI. B, 3;
much frequented on Sun.) ; Cafe Imperial, Avenida de San Francisco ' PL D, 3) ;
Cafi Royal, Avenida de San Francisco, these two recommended for breakfast;
Novelty, below Gillow's Hotel (see above); El Gran Saldn (Adeath), Saldn
Bach, and Gambrinus. three frequented 'cantine' in the Avenida de San
Francisco, the last two with restaurants; Kingman, see above
Electric Street Railways intersect the city in all directions (fare 6 c.;
to suburban points 10-25 c). The chief point of intersection is the Plaza
de la Constitucion (PL F. 3, 4; p. 652). — Observation Cars ('Viajes Alre-
dedor de Mexico'), leaving the Zocalo, opp. ihe Palacio ^acional, at
9.30 a.m. and 3 p.m., make the round of the city and suburbs (fare S 2).
Cabs (Cocker de Sitio) are divided into two classes, denoted by blue
and red flags; fares for 1-3 pers. $ 1 & 75c. per hr. ($ IV2 & 3 I on Sun. &
holidays), 50 c, 40 c. per 1/2 hr. or fraction thereof. The fare from the
railway-stations to the hotel, including hand-baggage, is about the same as
the half-hourly rate. Double fares from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m and on certain
holidays. The driver expects a small pourboire.
District Messengers (Cargadores), 25-50 c. per errand, $5/4-1 per hour.
Baths (Sitz baths 25-o0 c. ; Turkish or Russian baths, $1.25). Banos
San Felipe de Jesiii, in the street of that name (PL F, 4, 6); in the Iturbid.
Hotel (see above); Bams del Harem, Calle del Coliseo l^uevo 11 (PL E, 3).
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Practical Notes. MEXICO. lid. Route. 651
Places of Amusement. Teatro Nacional (PI. T), 3), in construction ; Teatro
Principal (PI. E, 3); Teatro Arbeu (PI. E, 4; opera, drama, and comedT);
Teatro Coldn, Calle del Colegio delfinas (PI. E, 4); Teatro Virginia Fdbregas
(formerly Renacimiento ; PL E, 3; Mexican performers). — OrrWs Circus
(PI. D, 2). — Farque Luna, near Chapultepec (p. 654), — Frontdn Nacional,
Calle Iturbide (PL C, 3), for the game of pelota. — Bull Ring (Plaza de Toros),
Colonia de laCondesa; seat on the shady side ca. $3 (season, Oct. -Feb.).
— Good Concerts in the Conservatory of Music (PL F, 4) and the Teatro
Metropolitano (PL D, 3).
Shops (English spoken at most of the best). Mexican curiosities, photo-
graphs, guide-books, maps, English books, periodicals, & newspapers: Amer-
ican Book cfr Printing Co. (Hoeck), Avenida de San Francisco ; Spaulding, Calle
de la Cadena 23 (PL E, 4); Sonora News Co., Calle de Gante 4; Mrs. John
R. Davis ('The Aztec"), Calle de Gante 8: W. G. Wolz Co., Avenida de San
Francisco. Other good shops are in the Avenida de San Francisco, the Calle
del Coliseo Nuevo, and the Avenida del Cinco de Mayo. Free Reading Room
(open 8-10) at Trinity Church, opposite the W. entrance of the Hotel Iturbide,
with an excellent library and full supply of American papers. — 'The Mexican
Herald' (morning) and 'The Daily Record' (evening), two daily papers in
English (5 c), contain many useful items for the tourist, including daily lists
of letters lying at the G. P. 0. for English and American visitors (comp.
p. 641). The 'Anglo-American' is a weekly paper. 'Modern Mexico' is an
illustrated monthly journal (25 c).
Clubs. American Club, Avenida Diez y Seis de Septiembre 16 ; British
Club, Avenida de S. Francisco 36 (PL E, 3); Casino Espanol; Jockey Club,
Avenida de S. Francisco (PL E, 3); Reforma Athletic Club (tennis, cricket, and
football); Country Club, at Churubusco, near Coyoacan (p. 654), with golf-links.
Streets. The streets of the city of Mexico were officially re-named in
1889, when the town was divided into four quarters by the long street
called Avenida Oriente and Av. Poniente, running from E. to W., and by
the Calle Norte and Calle Sur, running from N. to S. All streets running
E. and W. were to be called Avenidas and those N. and S. Calles. As,
however, the inhabitants absolutely refused to recognize this arrangement,
the City Council, passed a resolution in 1907, reverting to the old system
under which each street ha« an individual name.
Post Office {CorreoR; PL D, E, 3). — Telegraph Office (PL E, 3). — Cable-
grams, Avenida del Cinco de Mayo 6 (PL E, 3).
British Envoy and Minister, Eon. Reginald T. Tower. Avenida de Pan's 5;
consul, Mr. C.E. W. Stringer., Avenida de San Francisco 8. — U. S. Ambassa-
dor, Hon. D. E. Thompson, Tercera de Versalles 49; Con. -Gen., Mr. Arnold
Shanklin, Cuarta Calle de Balderas 59 (9-12 & 2-5). — German Envoy and
Minister, R. Biinz; Con., Br. Rieloff.
Protestant Churches. Services in English are held at Calle de Gante 5
(Meth. Epis. ; 10.15 a.m. and 8 p.m.), Christ Chttrch, Avenida de !Nuevo
Mexico (formerly Calle de la Providencia, PL C, 3; Epis.; 11a.m. and
8 p.m.), and Union Church, Quinta Calle Humboldt (11a.m. and 8 p.m.).
Mexico (7434 ft."), the capital and by far the largest city of the
Mexican Repuhlie, lies in the centre of the "Valley of Mexico, in part
of the former hed of Lake Texcoco. It contains ca. 450,000 inhab.,
chiefly full-blooded Indians or mestizoes, and including over 5000
natives of the United States and Great Britain. The streets are
generally wide and electrically lighted, but most of them are badly
paved and not very clean. Most of the buildings are of stone, and
several of the public edifices are very handsome. The public squares
and gardens and the residential suburbs are very attractive. The
climate is equable (50-70'^ Fahr.).
The Spanish city of Mexico was founded in 1522 on the site of the
ancient Aztec Tenochtitlan, the population of which is placed by tradition
652 Route 114. MEXICO. Cathedral.
at from 300,000 to 500,000. Its growth has been steady and rapid. In 1600
it contained 15,000 inhah., in 1746 it had 90,000, and in 1800 it had about
120,000. The commerce of the city is mainly in transit. Its mannfactares
include cigars and cigarettes, gold and silver work, pottery, feather-work,
saddlery, paper, religions pictures, hats, and beer. Numerous attempts
have been made at various epochs to drain the valley of Mexico (comp.
p. 650), but none of these proved successful until the completion in 1898 of
the sreat Drainage Canal (comp. Map, p. 654), constructed at a cost of
$ 10,000,000. It is 30 M. long and crosses the mountains by a tunnel 6 M.
in length. Its width at the top varies from 45 ft. to 168 ft. The canal is
crossed by numerous bridges of stone and iron.
Tlie *Catliedral [Church of the Asuncion de Maria Santmma;
PI. F, 3) stands on the N. side of the Plaza de la Cojtstitucion
or Plaza de Armas, 5-10 min, walk from the Sanz and other chief
hotels. This edifice, which occupies the site of the chief Aztec
temple (Teocalli), was hegun in 1573 and finally dedicated in 1667.
The towers, 218ft. high, were not completed till 1791. It is 425ft.
long (from N. to S.), 200 ft. wide, and 180ft. high. In style it is
similar to the Spanish Renaissance edifices of the same period.
The Interior, which is in the Doric style with traces of Gothic, has
an imposing effect in spite of its huge and incongruous modern altars and
the wooden flooring. The fine Dome is adorned with paintings. The
Choir occupies the centre of the church and has richly carved stalls. The
aisles are adjoined by rows of chapels, the most interesting of which are the
Capilla San Felipe de Jesus, with the tomb of the Emp. Iturbide (1790-1824).
the Cap. de las Eeliquias, with paintings of martyrs by Juan de Herrera, and
the Cap. San Pedro. The Sacrisii/ and the Chapter Souse also contain
interesting paintings, including an alleged Murillo. The heads of Hidalgo,
A llende, Jimenez, and Aldama (comp. p. 645) are interred below the Altar
de los Reyes, in. the apse. — The visitor should not fail to ascend one of
the towers for the sake of the *View of the city (fee 25 c).
On the E. the Cathedral is adjoined hy the *Sagrario Metro-
poUtano (PI. r, 3), the first parish-church of the city, dating in its
present form from 1749-69 and restored in 1858. It is in the florid
style named after the Spanish architect Churrignera (close of 17th
cent.). — In front of the Sagrario is the Martinez Monument^ show-
ing the geographical position of the city, the varying levels of Lake
Texcoco, etc.
The centre of the Plaza de la Constitncion (PL F, 3, 4) is occu-
pied by the pretty Zocalo G-ab,den, where a band generally plays
in the evening. Almost all the electric lines start in this square.
On the E. side of the Plaza de la Constitncion stands the huge
Palacio Nacional (PI, F, 3, 4), 675 ft. long, containing many of the
governmental offices (interior open to visitors). The chief points of
interest are the large Hall of the Ambassadors (with portraits of Mexi-
can celebrities) and the Senate Boom. — On the S. side of the Plaza
are the Palacio Municipal (PI. F, 4) or Pal. del Ayuntamiento, the
City Hall (formerly called La Diputacion) , and the Portal de las
Flores (shops). On the ^Y. side are the Portales Mercaderes. — To the
S.E. of the Plaza is the cMef*Market (^Mercado Volador; PI. F, 4)
of the city.
Behind the Palacio Nacional and entered from the Calle de Mo-
neda is the *NationaI Museum (PI. F, 3 ; open daily, exc. Sat., 10-1).
Alameda. MEXICO. lid. Route. 653
The most valuable and interesting collections are the. '"Mexican Anti-
quities (from Yucatan, etc.), including the famous Aztec Sacrificial Stone
(so called), the so-called Cross of Palenque, the ~ Aztec Calendar, and the
image of HuitzilopoxtU. The Historical Collections are also of interest. See
Descriptive Guide (Engl, trans, by H. N. Branch).
A little farther to tlie E., in tlie Calle de la Academia No. 208, is
the *Academy of San Carlos, with the Museum of Fine Arts (PI. G,
3, 4; open 9-12 and 1-5), containing good Italian and Flemish paint-
ings and interesting collections of old and modem Mexican works
(Las Casas protecting the Indians, by Felix Parra^ etc.).
The AvENiDA DE S. Eeancisco (formerly Calle de Plateros and
Calle de San Francisco; PI. E, F, 3), forming the principal business
street of the city, leads to the W. from the Plaza de la Constitucion to
(1/2 M.) the *Alameda (PI. C, D, 3), a public garden, with fine beeches
and a great variety of flowering trees and shrubs (band and fashio-
nable promenade on Sun. and Thurs.). — The Avenida del Cinco de
Mayo (Pi. D, E, 3), running parallel with the Avenida de San Francis-
co on the N., is also a fine street. It ends on the W. at the Alameda.
A little to the S.E. of the Mexican Central and Cuernavaca
Pacific Station (p. 650) and adjoining the Guerrero Garden (with
monument) is the Church of San Fernando (PI. C , 2) , the interest-
ing cemetery attached to which contains the graves of Juarez (fine
monument) , Miramon (p. 649), Mejia (p. 649), Zaragossa, Guerrero,
Comonfort, and other eminent Mexicans.
Among the numerous other interesting buildings in the city, of which
but a scanty selection can be named here, are the Biblioteca Nacional
(PI. E, 4^ 600,000 vols.; open 10-5 and 6-9. Sun. 9-12), in the Calle de San
Agustin, a little to the S.W. of the Plaza de la Constitucion; the Casa de
Moneda (Mint; PI. F, G, 2), in the Calle de Apartado ; the *Mineria or Escuela
de Ingenieros (School of Mines ; PI. E, 3), in the Calle de San Andres (29-51 ;
enormous meteorites in the court and portico); the House of Congress
(Camara de Diputados; PI. E, 3), in the former Teatro Iturbide, at the
corner of the CaUe Primera del Factor and the Calle de la Canoa (large
new Palacio Legislativo being erected to the W. ; PI. B, 3); the Technological
Industrial Museum., with samples of the crude products and manufactures
of Mexico, in the Church of St. Andrew; the Church of Santo Domingo
(PI. F,2), in the plaza of the same name, a little to the if. of the Cathedral;
the School of Medicine (PI. F, 2), opposite the last, occupied by the Inquisition
for 250 years ; the Conservator]/ of Music (PI. F, 4), in the Calle de la Uni-
versidad; the huge City Hospital (PL C, 2); the Prison; the Church of La
Sanfisima (PI. G, 3), with its finely carved facade, 1/2 M. to the E. of the
Cathedral; and numerous other churches and charitable institutions.
The fashionable drive of the Mexicans is the *Paseo de la Re-
FORMA (PI. C-A, 3, 4), which begins near the Alameda and runs to
the S.W. to (2 M.) Chapultepec (p. 654 ; band on Thurs. and Sun., 4-6).
At the entrance is an equestrian statue of Charles IV. (PI. C, 3) ; and
the 'Glorietas', or circles (400 ft. in diameter), which occur at fre-
quent intervals farther on, contain monuments to Columbus, Quate-
motzin or Guauhtemoc (the last Indian Emperor), Juarez., Friar
Servando Teresa de Mier, Gen. Juan Zuazua, etc. The Paseo com-
mands fine views of Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl (p. 654). At the
end of it is a small park, with a collection of native animals.
654 Route 114. BIEXICO. Environs.
Environs of Mexico.
The chief point of interest in the immediate neighbourhood of the City
of Mexico is the *Palaee of Chapultepec, finely situated on a rocky hill
at the end of the Paseo de la Rf forma (p. 653; also reached by the
Tacubaya tramway from the Plaza de la Constitucion, 10 c). Orders of ad-
mission (free) may be obtained from the Governor of ihe Palacio Na-
cional (p. 652). The present building, which occiipies the site of Monte-
zuma''s Palace, dates from 1783-^5, with later additions. It is occupied by
President Diaz and by the K'ational Military School (320 cadets). The fine
old cypresses in the grove surrounding the palace (Cupressus disHcha) reach
a height of 120 ft. and a girth of 30-40 ft. A monument commemorates
the cadets who fell in the defence of the palace against the Americans in
1847. Beyond the hill is the battlefield of Molino del Rey (Sept. 8th, 1847).
The *View from the ramparts includes the city and valley of Mexico, with
Popocatapetl and Ixtaccihuatl in the background. — From Chapultepec
the excursion may be extended (electric railway; IV4 M.) to Tacubaya
(37,050 inhab.), with the National Observatory, two churches, a secularized
convent, and beautiful private 'Gardens.
About 21/4 M. to the N. of the city (electric railway from the Plaza
de la Constitucion; 10 c.) is Guadalupe or Hidalgo^ with the sanctuary ot the
Virgin of Guadalupe, the patron-saint of Mexico and more especially of
the Indians. The Virgin is believed to have appeared to an Indian, Juan
Diego, in 1531, on the adjoining hill of Tepeyac. At the foot of the hill
is the large church of Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe , completed in 1709,
containing a miraculous picture of the Virgin, imprinted on Diego's tilma
(blanket). At the top of the hill is the Cap'lla del Cerrito, and close by is
another chapel, covering a holy (chalybeate) spring. The singular mon-
ument on the hill was erected by a grateful seaman.
At Popotla^ 2Vz M. to the ?f.W. of the city (electric railway from the
Plaza ; 12 c), is the famous *Arbol de la Noche Triste, or Tree of the Dismal
Nighty under which Cortes is said to have wept on the night of the ex-
pulsion of the Spaniards from Mexico (July 1st, 1520). It is a kind of cy-
press (see above). The road to it passes the Tlaxpana Aqueduct. The car
goes on to Taenia and (2V2 M. farther) Atzcapotzalco (20 c).
San Angel {San Angel Inn, $ 5-8; Villa des Eases, with good cuisine,
from $ 5), 8 M. to the S.W. (electric car 20 c), is worth visiting for its
view of the snow-mountains and the valley of 31exico.
Electric railway excursions may also be made to the Pantedn de Do-
lores, Atixcoac, Coyoacdn, La Piedad, Tlalpam, to the S.W. and S. of
Mexico, and other points. — The villages of (2 M.) Savta Anita and (3 M.)
Ixtacalco, on the Viga Canal, are also reached by electric car, but the so-
called Chinampas or Floating Gardens near them have lost most of their
interest. The canal ends at (8 M.) XocMmilco , whence a new aqueduct
conveys water to the city.
The two magnificent snow-capped volcanoes of Popocatepetl (17,887 ft.)
and Ixtaccihuatl ('Istaciwatr ; 17,343 ft.) are conspicuous features in the
environment of Mexico. The former is usually ascended from Popo Park
(8080ft; Hotel, from So, R. $1-5), a summer-resort, on it« slope, which is
reached by the Interoceanic Railway (40 M., in ca. 3 brs.); but the ascent is
arduous and should not be attempted except by experienced mountaineers
in good condition. Guides, horses, and iood may be obtained at the Park
Hotel. The trip takes 2-3 days and costs about S 40-50 for a single traveller,
everything included. From Popo Park we ride in 6-7 hrs to the ranch of
Tlamacas (12,917 ft.), just below the snow-line, where the night is spent.
Thence we proceed on foot over cinders and snow-fields to the steep slope
of neve' stretching to the summit. In 7-8 hrs. from Tlamacas we reach the
ice-sheathed 'Crater, 1540 yds. in diameter, from the 'solfatare' of which
clouds of vapour perpetually ascend. Part of the descent is often made by
tobogganning over the snuw-slop^s onrush-mats guided by Indians. — The
ascent of Ixtaccihuatl {i.e. 'the white lady", which is considerably harder,
is made from Popo Park or from Amecameca (8307 ft; no hotel), which lies
Environs. MEXICO. 114. Route. 655
on the Interoceanic Railway, 36 M. from Mexico. The Sacro Monte here is
a much frequented 'Route de Calvaire\
Beyond Amecameca and Popo Park the Interoceanic Railway goes on
to (85 M. from Mexico) Cuautla (Hot Springs Hotel & Baths), an interesting
olrl town and favourite health-resort, with natural hot sulphur haths, and
(135 M.) Puente de Ixtla, also a station on the Cuernavaca-Pacifico Railway
(see below).
Fkom Mexico to Cuebnavaca, T5 M., Mexican Central Railway in 4^/3 hrs.
(fare $ 3.67). This line passes through some charming scenery, and the trip
is well worth making. — 7 M. Tacubaya (p. 654). From (18 M.) Contreras the
train ascends rapidly along the mountain-side. Beyond (29 M.) Ajusco we
pass through a great cut (magnificent retro=peeti and reach the vast forest of
the Monte de Euitzilac. At (38 II.) La Cima (9900 ft.) we reach the culminating
point of tlie line and begin the descent, enjoying numerou-* fine views. 47 M.
Tret Marias. — 75 M. Cuemavaca (5397 ft. : Hot. Morelos, $35; Bella Vista) is
an interesting old town of (IvOO 1 95>4 inhab., the capital of the state of Morelos.,
with the Palace of Cortes (now the police-station), a chui-ch of 1529 (with
an old clock given to Cortes by Charles IV.), and the beautiful garden of
La Borda., once a favourite resort of the Empress Charlotte. The well-
equipped Morelos Baths and the Country Club (golt- course) may also be
mentioned. The town has numerous sugar-refineries. A visit should be paid
to the 'Fall of San Antonio (a ride or drive of V* l^i"-)- Linger excursions
(fatiguing) may be made to the Aztec temple-pyramid of Tepotzlan (20 M.)
and the extensive ruins of Xochicalco and Tepuzteco. — Beyond Cuemavaca
the railway goes on to (111 M.) Puente de Ixtla (terminus of the Interoceanic
Railway above mentioned), Iguala (l47M. ; 74G3 inhab.), and (181 M.) Balsas.,
whence it is to be prolonged to the Pacific Ocean.
Fkom Mexico to Pachdca, 62 M., Mexican Central Railway in 2V2 hrs.
(fare $ 3). — 50 M. Telles., the junction of a railway to (103 M. from Mexico)
Apulco. — 62 M. Pachvca (Los Baiios; Grenfell), the capital of the State of
Hidalgo., with (1900) 37,487 inhabitants. Here, and at the neighbouring
Real del Monte (10,000 inhab.), ai-e important silver and iron mines. — Pachuca
may also be reached from Mexico by the Hidalgo & N. E. Railway (68 M.,
in 3 hrs.) via (16 M.) Tepa; and it is also connected by railway with
Tulandngo, Tortugas, Tula (p. 649), Irolo (p. 656), and Ometmco (p. 656).
Other excu'sions by railway may be made to Texcoco (see p. 658); to
Toluca (see p. 643 1; to Orizaba., Cdrdoba, or Paso del Macho (see p. 657); to
San Juan Teotihuacdn (see below); to Puebla (p. 658); to Oaxaca (p. 659), etc.
From Mexico to £1 Paso, see R. 113; to Laredo, see R. Ill; to Eagle
Pass, see R. 112: to Vera Cruz, see R. 115.
115. From the City of Mexico to Vera Cruz.
a. Via, Apizaco and Orizaba.
264 M. Mexican Railway (Ferrocarril Mexicano) in 12V2-13 hrs. (fare
$ 7.20, gold : return-fare $ 12.25, with return by the Interoceanic Railway
$ 13.25).
Visitors to Mexico should at least make a trip over this railway as
far as Orizjiba or Paso del Macho for the sake of the magnificent scenery in
the descent from the Mexican Plateau to the coast-level. Views to the right.
City of Mexico, see p. 650. The train ascends to the N.E., passing
the Custom House (right), Guadalupe (p. 654; left), and Lake
Texcoco (right), and farther on crosses immense plantations of
'maguey' (see p. 649). Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihnatl are seen to
the S. — 28 M. San Juan Teotihuacdn (7415 ft.), with two interest-
ing 'TeoealHs', or pyramids, dedicated to the Sun and Moon and
656 Route 115. MT. OMZABA. From Mexico
believed to antedate the Toltecs (seen to the left, about 2 M. from
the railway). The former is 180 ft. high, with a base measuring
680 ft. ; the other is smaller. — 35 M. Otumha was the scene of a
crucial battle between the Spaniards and Aztecs (July 8th, 1520).
42 M. Ometusco, the junction of a line to (28 M.) Pachuca (p. 655).
48 M. Irolo and (58 M.) Apam (7300 ft.) are two of the chief centres
of the trade in 'pulque' (p. 649). Beyond Apam we pass from the
State of Hidalgo to that of Tlaxcala. Near (77 M.) Guadalupe
(8130 ft.) Mt. Orizaba and the Malintzi (see below) are visible to
the S.E. — 87 M. Apizaco (Rail. Restaurant).
Feom Apizaco to Puebla, 29 M., railway in IV2 hr. — Good views
are obtained of the Malintzi (13,460 ft. ^ left) and, in clear weather, of Popo-
catepetl, Ixtaccihuatl, and Orizaba. From (11 M.) Santa Ana (7430 ft.) we
may make an excursion by tramway to (5 M.) tbe ancient city of Tlaxcala,
capital of the state of the same name, with (1900) 2715 inhah., interesting
churches, relics of Cortes and other early Spaniards (in the Casa Munici-
pal), etc. — Beyond (22 M.) Panzacola the pyramid of Cholula (p. 659) is
seen to the right. — 29 M. Puebla (see p. 658).
Near (103 M.) Huamantla (6000 inhab.) the railway reaches its
highest point (8310 ft.). 113 M. San Marcos (p. 660), the junction
of the Interoceanio Railway. — 137 M. San Andres is the starting-
point for the ascent of *Mt. Orizaba or Citlaltepetl (18,242 ft.), the
highest mountain in Mexico and probably inferior to Mts. McKinley
and Logan only among the peaks of N. America (comp. p. 686).
The ascent is exhausting but not difficult. From San Andrds a tram-
car drawn by mules (the descent is made by gravity) runs in 1 hr. to (6 M.)
ChalcMcomiila (inn), a picturesque village, with a fine Renaissance church,
situated on the W. side of the mountain. Hence, riding first through fields of
agave and grain, then for several hours through forest, we reach (in about
9 hrs.) the saddle between the Orizaba and the Sierra Negra. The night is
spent here in a cavern, known as the Cueva de los Ladrones. The climb
from this point to the summit takes 5-8 hrs. according to the state of the
snow. For the first hour or two, it is still possible to ride; but the rest
of the way has to be done on foot, over grass, debris, and snow. The
highest point on the edge of the crater is indicated by a cross. Popocatepetl
and Ixtaccihuatl are seen due W., the Malintzi to the N.W., the town of
Orizaba far below, and, in clear weather, the Gulf of Mexico to the E.
From (152 M.) Esperanza (8045 ft. ; RaU. Restaurant) a tram-
way runs to (31 M.) Tehuacdn, on the railway from Puebla to Oaxaca
(p. 659). — Here begins a very rapid descent, to surmount which
trains coming in the reverse direction require the aid of double-headed
Fairlie locomotives. The scenery on this portion of the line is very
grand, and its engineering is very remarkable. The vegetation becomes
of tropical richness as we near the tierra caliente, or hot lands of the
coast, including orange, lime, citron, banana, and pomegranate trees,
sugar-cane, palms, coffee plants, and a great variety of brilliant
flowering trees and shrubs. — Beyond (155 M.) Boca del Monte
(7925 ft.), where we look down into the valley 3000 ft. below us
(right), the train runs along a terrace on the mountain-side, thread-
ing several tunnels and crossing several bridges. 160 M. Alta Luz.
At (169 M.) Maltrata (5550 ft.) we reach the smiling vaUey of La
Joya. A little farther on we pass the wild gorge named the *Barranca
toVeraCrut. VERACRUZ. 115. Route. 657
del Infiernillo ('Little Hell'), with tlie Aroyo de Maltrata 600 ft.
below ns. Near Orizaba we round the Cerro del Borrego, where a
small French force repulsed a large number of Mexicans in 1862.
182 M. Orizaba (4030 ft. ; Francia, good but rather expensive,
with a lovely patio; La Borda; Oran Hotel; Bestaurant at the sta-
tion, good native beer), a quaint little town of 33,539 inhab., lies
in a valley surrounded by mountains and contains some interesting
churches, with works of the local painter Barranco. Excellent fruit
may be bought here very cheaply. The reed-thatched huts of this
region are thoroughly tropical-looking. An excursion may be made
by carriage or on horseback to the waterfall of the Bincdn Grande.
Beyond Orizaba we cross the fine * Ravine of the Metlac by a
bridge 92 ft. high, and other bridges and tunnels are passed (good
engineering). 193 M. Fortin. — 198 M. Cdrdoha (2710 ft. ; Gran
Hotel Zevallos; Diligencias), with 8736 inhabitants.
Fkom CdKDOBA TO Santa LucKECiA, 203 M., Vera Cruz d: Pacific Railway
(one train daily in each direction; 13V4 trs.). — 30 M. Tezon/^ipa; 38 M.
Acaildn, the junction of a branch line to Izucar de Matamoros ; 58 M. Tierra
Blanca^ the terminus of a br mch from (62 M.) Vera Cruz. At (105 M.) El
Hule we cross the Rio Papaloapdn by a bridge 1/2 M. long. 125 M. Psi'ez.
— 203 M. Santa Lucrecia.
Santa Lucrecia is also a station on the Tehuantepec National Railway over
the Isthmus of Tehuantepec (1^8 M., in IOV4 hrs.). This line is expected
to be a formidable competitor of the Panama Canal for interoceanic traffic;
and important harbour-works have been constructed at both its termini.
It begins at Puerto Mexico (formerly Coatzacoalcos), on the Gulf of Mexico.
54 M. /m7e;79M. Santa Lucrecia (see above); lOb M. Palomares ; 126 M.
Rincdn Antonio ; 159 M. San Gerdnimo ; 176 M. Tehuantepec, a town of 10,386
inhab. ; 188 M. Salina Cruz, on the Pacific Ocean.
210 M. Atoyac (1510 ft.). A little farther on are the *Falls
of the Atoyac. 216 M. Paso del Macho (1500 ft.).
Beyond this point the scenery is uninteresting, and this may be
made the turning-point for those who do not intend to take ship at
Yera Cruz. Near (238 M.) Soledad we cross the Jamapa by a long
bridge. 254 M. TejerCa.
264 M. Vera Cruz, now officially written Veracruz {Hotel de Mexico^
from $ 31/2 ; Diligencia, from $ 2^2 j Universal, Col6n, from $ 3 ; U. S.,
Brit, and Ger. Con.), a seaport on the Gulf of Mexico, with (1900)
24,085 inhab. and a good harbour, lies in a dreary sandy plain and
contains comparatively little of interest to the tourist. The climate
is hot and very unhealthy in summer. It was here that Cortes landed
in 1519. The duties of the scavenger are here performed largely by
the buzzard.
From Vera Cruz to Alvaeado, 43 M., railway in 3 hrs. — The line
runs to the S., along the coast. — Alvarado (hotels) lies on an arm of the
sea, which receives the waters of two navigable rivers, the Rio Papaloapdn
and the Rio San Juan. A trip of 3 hrs. may be made up the former to the
small town of Tlacotalpam, with its picturesque plaza.
From Vera Cruz to Tierra Blanco, see above.
Steamers ply regularly from Vera Cruz to Havana, New York, New
Orleans ($ 34.55), Galveston, and other American ports; and good sailors may
prefer one of these routes in entering or leaving Mexico.
658 Route 115. PUEBLA. From Mexico
b. ViS. San Lorenzo and Jalapa.
293 M. Intekoceanic Railwat (Ferrocarril Inter oceanico) in 13^/4 brs.
(fares as at p, 655),
Mexico^ see p. 650. The railway follows the line to Amecameca
(p. 654:) to the S.W., along the S.W. shore of Lake Texcoco, as far as
(11 M.) Los Reyes, and then turns to the N. The inhabitants of
(17 M.) San Vicente are largely occupied in catching flies on the
neighbouring marshes and compressing them into bricks for bird-
food. — 24 M. Texcoco (7475 ft. 5 Colon, E. from 50 c), on the site
of an ancient town of the Chilkemekes, with x\ztec remains. — 38 M.
Metepec, with the 'Sun' and 'Moon' pyramids ; 43 M. Otumba (p. 656) ;
56 M. Irolo (p. 656).
62 M. San Lorenzo, in the state of Hidalgo, is the junction of
the line to Puebla (R. 115 c.). — 72 M. Iturbe, in the state of
Tlaxcala; 82 M. Sanz; 99 M. Pavdn, with a hacienda where bulls
are bred for the arena.
134 M. Oriental (Hotel, with restaurant, adjoining the railway,
R. from $ 1) is the junction of lines to (52 M.) Teziutldn (33,000
inhab. ; copper-mines) audto (50 M.) Puebla (see below). — 146M.
Tepeyahualco, with another famous bull-raising hacienda. — Beyond
(163 M.)Perote (8085 ft.) we skirt the N. side of the Cofre de Perote
ox Nauhcampatepetl ('square mountain'; 14,049 ft.), passing great
fields of lava.
213 M. Jalapa or Xalapa (4682 ft.; Gran Hotel; Mexicano, $2),
a quaint old city with (1900) 20,388 inhab., beautifully situated among
the mountains, is the capital of the State of Vera Cruz and, perhaps,
the most charming summer-resort in Mexico, with a cool and re-
freshing climate. Many delightful excursions can be made from it.
Jalap derives its name from this city. The women of Jalapa are
distinguished for their beauty. — 293 M. Vera Cruz, see p. 657.
c. Vi& Puebla and Jalapa.
339 M. Intekoceanic Eailwat in 20 hrs., with halt of SVs hrs. (3 to
6 a.m.) at Ptiebla (fares as at p. 655)
From Mexico to (Jo^ M.) San Lorenzo, see above. The Puebla
line here diverges to the right (S.) from that described above. 97 M.
Atotonilco; 103 M. Gillow.
129 M. Puebla (7120 ft. ; Arcada, from $ 6 ; Diligencias, Gran,
Francia, from $2i/.2; Magloire, Jardin, from $2; U. S. Con. Agent,
Mr. William Headen) , the capital of the state of the same name,
vsdth (1900) 98,191 inhab., was founded in 1531 and is one of the
most attractive cities in the country. The use of glazed and coloured
tiles in external and internal decoration is a characteristic feature.
Its most interesting products for tourists are the articles made of
Mexican onyx, baskets and {mats of coloured straw, and pottery.
The *Cathedbal, dating i from the middle of the 17th cent., with
to Vera Cruz. OAXACA. ii5. Bowte. 659
later additions, is scarcely inferior to that of Mexico in size and
importance, wliile its interior is more ricWy decorated. It is in
the Spanish Renaissance style, with a central dome, harrel-vanlting,
and two lofty towers (-view). Among the points of interest in the
interior are the onyx decorations, the marqnetry work, the paint-
ings, the tapestry, the altars, and the organ-cases. — Other interest-
ing churches are those of San Francisco, La Compania, and Nuestra
Senora del Carmen. — Near the railway- station is a large new Peni-
tentiary. — A monnment has been erected to the victims of the war
of 1862-63 (see helow). — The *Paseo along the Rio Atoyac affords
a pleasant walk. — A visit should he paid to Fort Guadalupe.^ on
the hiU where took place the famous battle of the Cinco de Mayo
(1862). The fort commands a splendid **Yiew, including Mts.
Popocatepetl, Ixtaccihuatl, Orizaba, and Malintzi.
About 8 M, to the W. of Puebla (railway; return -fare 45 c.) is Cholula
(7100 ft.; 7000 inhab.), with some interesting churches and the famous
"Pyramid of Cholula, an artificial mound of sun-dried brick and clay,
204 ft. high, with a base about 1000 ft. square (approximately). It is
built in terraces, three of which are distinctly recognizable. The top,
consisting of a platform 165 ft. square, crowned by the Church of the Virgin
de los Remedios, is reached by a winding stone-paved road, ending in a
flight of steps. The *View is very fine. The construction of the pyramid is
ascribed to the Olmecs or Toltecs, but its date and purpose are obscure-
FfiOM Pdebla to Oaxaca, 228 M., Mexican Southern Railway (Ferro.
carril Mexicano del Sur) in 13 hrs. (one train daily in each direction; re.
turn-fare $15, from Mexico City $25.40; tickets available for 15 days)
This line traverses one of the finest districts in Mexico, the greater portion
lying amid tropical scenery, though the termini are both in the temperate
zone. — 11 M. Amozoc is the highest point on the line (7590 ft.). Beyond a
beautiful valley affording glimpses of Malintzi and other volcanoes and
commanding a distant view of Popocatepetl (p. 654), the organ-cactus trees
become a prominent feature, and the prickly pear, mezquite, huisache, and
lechuguilla gradually give place to date-palms and plantains. — 54 M. Tlaco-
tepec, junction of a branch -line to Mucio Martinez. — 79 M. Tehuacdn
(5400 ft. ; Riego, $ 2-4 ; Mexico, $ 2-3V2), a beautifully situated and frequented
resort, with 7395 inhab., has mineral springs and baths resembling those of
Carlsbad. A branch-railway runs hence to (31 M.) Esperanza (p. 656). — At
(112 M.) Venta Salada the first sugar-cane plantations are reached. 121 M.
San Antonio. The train now enters the savage Guez Canyon., rivalling the
canyons of Colorado. 146 M. Quiotepec is the lowest point on the line
(1765 ft.); and at (159 M.) Tomellin (dinner station) begins the steep ascent.
We mount through the rapidly changing vegetation of the beautiful Tomellin
Canyon, and at (209 M.) Las Sedas (6300 ft.) find ourselves amongst pine-
woods. — 228 M. Oaxaca (pron. 'Wahaka' ; 5065 ft.; Chavez, from $2;
Francia, $ 1V2-3V2, good), an ancient historical city with (1900) 35,049 inhab.
and several handsome churches, is one of the most flourishing in Mexico.
It was the birthplace of Presidents Juarez (1806-72 ; monument) and Porfirio
Diaz (1830). Above the city, to theS.VV., rises Monte Alb an (6245 ft.), with
some interesting ruins and commanding a fine *View (road to the top,
4 M.). — About 25 M. to the S.E. of Oaxaca lie the extensive, well-preserved,
and mysterious ruins of Mitla (good accommodation at a hacienda; ca. $ 2'/2
per day). These are reached by carr. ($ 18-25, inel. night at Mitla) or on
horseback ($ IVz per day) in 4-5 hrs. We may send the carriage on to Tule
and proceed to that point by tramway. The great tree of Tule, a kind of
cypress (Taxodium Mexicanum), is. 154 ft. in circumference and bears an
inscription placed on it by Humboldt. Cortes took the title of Duke of
Oaxaca from this valley. — Beyond Oaxaca the railway proceeds to the S.,
660 Route 116. ATENCINGO.
via (24 M.) Ocatldn, to (31 M.) Ejutla. Numerous silver-mines are worked
in the Oaxaca and Ocotlan district.
Feom Puebla to Tlancdaipican, 77 M., Jnlercceanic Railway in 53/4 hrs.
— 28 M. Atlixco ; 52 M. Matamoros (not to be cotfounded with the place
named at p. 645). At (65 M.) Atencingo the line forks, the right branch
running to Cuautla (p. 655). — 77 M. Tlancualpicdn.
Beyond PneWa our line bends to the left (N.E.). 163 'M. San
Marcos (p. 656), th.e Jiinction of the Mexican Railway. At (180 M.)
Oriental we rejoin the line described in R. 115 h, which we follow
thence to (339 M.) Vera Cruz (p. 657).
VII. CUBA. PORTO RICO.
Route Cuba Page
Introductory Notes 661
116. Havana 662
Excursions from Havana 666.
117. From Havana to Santiago de Culia 666
From San Luis to Guantanamo 667.
118. From Havana to Pinar del Rio and Gnane 668
Porto Rico
Introdnctory Notes 669
119. From San Juan Bautista to Ponce 669
a. By Railway 669
From San Juan to Carolina; to Caguas 670.
b. By Road 671
Cuba.
Cuba, tlie 'Pearl of the Antilles', is the largest, richest, and most
populous of the West Indian Islands, and lies about 100 M. due S. of
Florida. Its extreme length from Cape Maysi on the E. to Cape San
Antonio on the W. is 730 M., its width varies from 25 M. to 100 M., and
its area is about 44,000 sq. M. (i.e. about the size of Pennsylvania). In
1907 it contained 2,048,980 inhab., of whom two-thirds were white and
one-third coloured. [The original Indian native race has entirely disap-
peared.] The irregular coast-line contains numerous commodious harbours,
usually entered by narrow channels. The surface consists mainly of un-
dulating plains, but the E. part is largely occupied by the Sierra Maestro.
culminating in the Pico Turquino (8400 ft.), the Sierra del Cobre, and other
mountains, while to the extreme N.W., in the province of Pinar del Rio,
is the range named Sierra de los Organos (2600 ft.). Few of the rivers are
long or navigable. The fertile soil produces large quantities of tobacco (often
raised under 'cheesecloth'' shelters), sugar-cane, sweet potatoes, bananas, etc. —
Except during the short occupation by the British in 1762, Cuba was held
by Spain from its discovery by Columbus in 1492 down to Dec. 10th, 1898,
when it was handed over by treaty to the United States. From Jan. 1st,
1899, until May 20th, 1902, the island was under governors appointed by
the United States, who did much to improve its condition in every way
and (in particular) practically stamped out the scourge of yellow fever. For
the following four years the 'Republic of Cuba' was ruled by a popularly
elected President ; but internal dissensions again necessitated the inter-
vention of the U.S. in Sept., 1906, when the island was put under a Pro-
visional Grovernor (comp. p. 664) appointed by the President of the United
States. This second 'military occupancy'" lasted till 1909, when the island
once more became 'Cuba Libre', under an elected President.
Approaches. Cuba is easily reached by steamer from various ports in
the United States. The shortest sea-routes are those of the Peninsulak &
Occidental S.S. Co. from Knighfs Key (Key West) and Port Tampa, narti-
culars of which are given at pp. 623, 628. — Another excellent service is
that of the Waed Line, leaving New York (Pier 13, East River) twice
weekly and reaching Havana in 3V2-4 days (fare $40-46). — The steamers
of the MuNSON Line ply from New York (Pier 9, E. River) once or twice
a month to Nuevitas^ the port of Camaguey (p. 867; fare § 35). — Santiago^
on the S. coast of Cuba, may be reached by sea in 16 brs. from Kingston
Baeueker's United States. 4th Edit. 42
662 Route lie. HAVANA. Practical Notei.
(Jamaica), to whicli steamers of the Royal Mail Steam Packet Co. and the
Hamburg Ameeican Like ply regularly from New York. It is also reached
from New Tork^ via Nassau, by a boat of the Ward Line (p. 661). — From
Europe Hivana is reached by steamers of the Hamboeg Ameeican Line
(from Hamburg^ Havre^ Plymouth, and Spanish ports). — Other lines run
from New Orleanit. Mobile, Galveston^ Halifax, etc.
English is generally understood at the larger hotels, but a knowledge
of Spanish will, of course, be found useful (comp. p. 640).
Railways. The United Railways of Havana, the Cuba Railroad, the
Western Railway of Havana, the Cuba Central Railways, and the Cuba Eastern
Railroad practically give access to all parts of the island likely to interest
the tourist. The trains run on Havana time, which is 1/2 hr. ahead of
Central time (see p. xiv).
Passports. Custom House. Passports are not needed in Cuba. There
is no duty on the articles usually in the possession of the ordinary tourist.
On re-entering the United States travellers are subject to the ordinary
Custom House and quarantine regulations (see p. xiv). On landing at
Havana the traveller should find out from the port physician just what
quarantine regulations are in force.
Money. Expenses. The legal tender currency used in Cuba includes the
money b-th of the United States and of Spain. The Spanish Peso ($1) con-
tains 5 Pesetas (value 20 c.) and 100 Centavos. A Real is nominally worth
about 10 c. (comp. p. 640). The exchange varies but it is always in favour
of the American currency ($1 American generally = ca. § 115 Spanish;
Amer. dollar ca. ^d^/zd., ^pan. gold d liar 45V4rf., Span, silver dollar 40d.).
Railway-fares, hotel-rates, and so on, are generally quoted in American
money, but cab-fares and shop-prices are given in Spanish money. A con-
siderable amdunt of French gold is also current (luis or louis = § 4).
A supply of Spanish money sh' uld be obtained on arrival at Havana, and
may be obtained from the Cnmbios de Moneda (money-changers) at almost
every street-corner. — The daily expenses of a tour in Cuba are about
the same as in Mexico (c 'mp. p. 640).
Climate. Season of Tour. The climate of Havana is warm in summer
(mean temp. ca. 80° Fahr.) and cool in winter (mean ca. 70° Fahr., min.
ca. 50° Fahr.). The best season to visit Havana is from Nov. to April in-
clusive. Most of the rainfall takes place between May and October. During
most of the winter light summer clothing may be worn, but thin overcoats
are sometimes comf rtable and warmer clothing is useful during a N. wind.
The prevailing wind throughout the year is the Easterly Trade Wind.
Postal Arrangements. These are the same as in the United States,
but Cuba has a separate issue of stamps, v?ith values in centavos.
Bibliography. A. K. Fiake, History of the Islands of the West Indian
Archipelago (New York, 1899); A. 3. Rowan and M. M. Ramsay, The Is-
land of I ub-i (London, 1^'9>); R. J- Hill, Cuba and Porto Rico (London,
1899); R. P. Porter, In.iustrial Cub ' (New York, 1S19); C. H. Forbes- Lindsay,
Americas Insular Pos-^essi-.ns (Philadelphia, 1906); Alger, The Spanish-
American War (New York, 1901); and other books by Davey, Clark,
Atkins, and Wheeler.
116. Havana.
Arrival. The steamer is visited by the Health Officer before the passengers
land, by tender, at La Machma Wharf (PI H. 3). Luggage is examined on the
wharf. Baggage may be checked from the wharf to the uotel. Cab. see p. 663.
Railway Stations. Villanueva Station (PI. F, 4), of the United Rail-
ways of Havana, tor Rincdn, Guanajay, Bataban<'i, Giiines, Colon, and all
intermediate stations of the United Railways of Havana and also for the
through-trains to Santiago de Cuba; Reg la Station {jta-ched. hj (eTvy from
Lnz Wharf or Muelle de Luz, PI. H, 4; fare 10 c.) , a second station ot
the same raUway, for Matanzas, Santa Clara, and all other points to the E.
of Havana; Cristina Station (Fl. E, 6), for the Western Railway of Havana
(p. 668) ; Concha Station (PI. B, C, 4), for Marianao (p. 668).
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Practical Notes. HAVANA. 116. Route. 663
Hotels, INGLATEBKA (PI. a; F, 3), from $41/2; Mikamak (PI. b; F, 1),
on the Malecdn, with sea-view, R. from $5; Plaza, Calle de Neptuno,
cor. of Calle de Zulneta (PI. F, 2, 3), fmrn $4; Pasaje PL c; F, 3) from
$41/2; Telegbafo (PI. d; F, 3), from $4; El Louvke (PI. e; E, F, 8),
$4-6, R. $2-5; Flokida (PI. f; G, 2), from $3; Tkotcha, in the uburb
of Vedado (comp. inset map), pleasant for a prolonged stay, from $3; Lnz,
Oficios 35, from $21/2; Sevilla, Calle del Trocadero, cor. of Calle de
Zulneta (PL F, 2), from $5, R. from ? 2; Isla de Cuba, Calzada Principe
Alfonso 43 (PL E, F, 4), from $ 2; Alcazae, from $21/2; Habvet s, Prado 99,
R. from $1; BfioOKLTN, R. from $ I. — Rates are lower in summer, and
in any case it is advisable to have prices fixed in advance and to ascertain
whether they are quoted in American or Spanish currency.
Restaurants at the Miramar (D. $2, with music) and other hotels;
also, *El Carabanchel, Calle de San Miguel 8, near Central Park; Paris,
Calle de O'ReiUy 14 (high charges) ; Harvey, Calle de Zulueta 32. — Cafes
are a characteristic feature of Havana life and are very numerous (e.g. ad-
joining Central Park). Coffee, fruit-drinks, and ice-cream (served with
'barquillos'', a kind of funnel-shaped wafer) are the objects most in request.
Electric Tramways run through the chief streets and to various suburban
points (fare within city limits 5 cents or 7 centavo.*). — The Havana Central
R.R. (electric) runs to the S. W. to (31 M.) Guanajay (lV2hr. ; fare V)l c.) and to
the S.E. to (32 M.) GiXinei^ (98 c.) and (35 M.) Providencm (IV2-I3/4 hr. ; $ 1.04).
Cabs. Per drive within the city (i.e. tu the E. of the CalzadadeBelascoain,
PL C, D, 2-6), 1-2 pers. 20. 3 pers. 25, 4 pers. 30 c. ; within second zone, extend-
ing to the Calzada de la Infanta (PL B, 2-4), 25, 30, 35 c. ; in the third zone,
40, 45, 50 c. Per hour $11/4, $172, $1^4- Double fares from 11 p.m. to
6 a.m. — '■Seeing Havana'' Antomohiles visit the chief sights (fare $ 1V2)-
Places of Amusement. Teatro Nadonal (PI. 7; F, 8), for opera; Payret
Theatre (PL 8 ; F, 3) ; Albizu (PL 6 ; F, 3), Spanish plays ; Marti, cor. of the
CaUe de Dragones and Calle de Zulueta (PI. F, 4); Cuba; Alhambra,
Calle del Consulado 134 (PL F, 2), for men only; Chinese Theatre, Calle de
la Zan,ja 35. — The national hall-game of Jai Alai (similar to the Juego
de Pelota of the Basques) is played in the Frontdn. cor. of the Calle de
la Concordia and Calle del Oquendo (PL C, 8; adm. from 50 c. to $ 2). —
The C'iriiiv'il Season is celebrated in Havana with considerable gaiety.
Post Office iCorreo; PL 3, H 2), Calle de O'Reilly (open 8-4). —
Telegraph Office in the Senate Building (p. 665); for cable messages, at the
corner of the Calle de Cuba and Calle del Oi-ispo; also in the chief hotels.
Churches. Services in English are held in the Calle de Neptuno, cor.
of the Calle del Aguila (Episc); Calle de las Virtudes 10 (Meth. Episc);
Calle Real de la Salud 40 (Pre.«b.); at the ci-mer of the Calle de Zulueta
and Calle de Dragones (Baptist); and CaUe de Someruelos 6 (Congreg.).
Envoys. Uriited States, Edwin V. Morgan, Calzada del Malecdn 7a;
Great Britain, A. C. Grant Duff, Calle del Aguiar lOl; Germany, H. von
Echardt, Calle de las Virtudes 2.
Consuls. United States Consul-General, James Linn Rodgers, Calle de
Galiano 84 ; British Vice-Consul, A. Charlton, Calle del Aguiar 101 ; German
Consul, von Echardt (-ee above).
Clubs. American Club, Prado 83, near Central Park; Centre Asturiano,
Calle de Zulueta. Central Park; Centra de Dependientes, see p. 664; Union
Club, Calle de Zulueta ; Spanish Casino, Prado, cor. of the Calle de Neptuno ;
German Club, on the second floor of the same building
Newspapers. The Havana Pott (5 c. ; morning) and Havana Daily Tel-
egraph (5 c; evening) are two daily papers published in English.
Physicians. Dr. Clifford Ryder, Prado 99 (10-3 & 7-8) ; Dr. Laine (phy-
sician to the American Hospital at Vedado), Prado 70 (12-2); Dr. Fmlay,
CaUe de Neptuno 22. — Dentists. Dr. Rhome, Prado 98; Dr. Erastus Wilson,
Monte 51, Colon Park.
Havana (Span. Habana or San Cristdbal de la Eabana), the
capital and largest city of Cuba, lies on the N.W. coast of the island,
on an excellent harbonr entered by a narrow channel defended by
42*
664: Route 116. HAVANA. Central Park.
forts (comp. below). In 1907 it contained 297,159 inhab., abont
50 per cent of whom were native whites, 25 per cent foreign whites,
14 per cent 'mestizos', and 11 per cent negroes. There are also
2-3000 Chinese and a few Japanese and Indians. The streets of
the old part of the city are very narrow, and the bnildings are
usually in a low and heavy semi-Oriental style, with windows pro-
tected by gratings. The more modern streets are, however, wide
and handsome, and the 'paseos' and parks are very attractive. The
doors, sometimes 10-15 ft, in height, are often of solid mahogany
or other richly colonred native wood and are generally furnished
with ponderous bars and mounts.
Havana was founded on its present site in 1519 and became the capital
of the island in 1552. Its early history is a record of ravages by bucca-
neers, and in 1762 it was captured by the British and held by them for a
year. The blowing-up of the TJ. S. battleship 'Maine' in the harbour of
Havana in 1898 was the determining incident of the war with the United
States, which resulted in the loss of Cuba to Spain (comp. p. 661). — Many
of the street-cries of Havana are very quaint and musical.
The visitor may naturally begin his exploration of Havana at
Central Park {Farque Central; PI. F, 3), the focus of the social
life Of the city, with its laurels, its brilliant flowering shrubs, and its
garden-beds. It is adjoined by some of the chief hotels and theatres,
and it is adorned with a monument to Jose Marti (1853-95), the
'Apostle of Cuban Independence', by J. V. de Saavedra. A band
plays here San. & Wed. evenings [chair 5 c). — Adjoining Central
Park on the E. is Monserrate Square, with a statue, also by Saa-
vedra, of General Francisco de Albear (1811-89), the engineer who
constructed the Vento Aqueduct (comp. p. 668).
To the N. of Central Square stretches the *Pbado ('meadow'),
a wide and fashionable promenade shaded with formally-trimmed
laurel-trees. Following it, we pass the Spanish Casino (IS) , the
American Club (r. ; p. 663), and the Centra de Bependientes (r.), an
association of business clerks. Also to the right, almost at the end
of the Prado, is the Cdrcel (PI. F, 1), a large prison with room for
5000 Inmates (now little used). Just to the N. of this is the Students
Memorial^ erected to eight Cuban students executed here by the
Spaniards in 1871 on a comparatively trivial charge.
The Prado ends at the Castillo de la Punta (PI. F, 1), con-
structed in 1669 to command the entrance of the harbour and
now used as barracks.
On the opposite side of the channel is the more imposing Morro Castle
{Castillo del Morro; comp. inset map at p. 663), which was constructed in
1597 and is partly hewn out of the living rock. It played an important part
in the siege of 1762. To the S.E., flanking the ship cha'nnel, is the enormous
fortkno^\n as the Cabana (PI. H, 1). The Morro commands an admirable
view of the city, the harbour, and the Gulf of Mexico. The charge for a
boat to the Cabana or the Morro is 10 c. each person.
From the Punta Castle the Calzada del Malbc6n (PI. F-C,
1 , 2), an esplanade protected by a sea-wall, extends towards the W.
for about 1 M., ending at the site of the old Reina Battery (razed
Cathedral. HAVANA. 116. Route. 665
in 1904). It affords a fine view of the Gulf of Mexico. "We may go
on towards the W. to the charming residential suburb of Vedado
(comp. inset map at p. 663), past the Casa de Beneficencia (PI. C, 2),
a large orphan asylum and hospital, the San Ldzaro Leper Hospital
(PI. B, C, 2), and the Santa Clara Battery (PL A, 1).
In following the Parqne Isabel la Catolica, to the S. from Central
Park, we pass the Payret Theatre (p. 663) and soon reach the
Campo de Martb (PI. F, 4) or Parque Col6n, witli its luxuriant
vegetation and the India Fountain (PI. F, 4).
A little to the W. of the Campo de Marte is the interesting Mek-
CADo DE Tacon (PI. E, 4; Tacon Market) or Plaza de Vapor, among
the objects sold at which are tropical fruits and vegetables, fish, and
palm-leaf baskets.
The Calzada de la Reina, continued by the Paseo de Tacon or Carlos
Tercero (with a statue of Carlos III. by Canova), leads hence to the Concha
Station (p. 663), the Almendaret Baseball Grounds, the PresidenVs Summer
Palace (Quinta de los Molinos or de los Capitanes Generales; PI. B, 4), and
the Botanical Gardens (PI. A, B, 4).
Returning once more to Central Park, we may now bend to the
E. and visit the oldest and most interesting part of the city. We
follow either the Calle de O'Reilly or Calle del Obispo (PI. F-H,
3, 2), two narrow and busy thoroughfares, with many of the most
attractive shops in Havana. Between the two streets stands the
Church of Santo Domingo (PI. G, H, 2 ; 1578). Both of them
debouch on the —
Plaza de Aemas (PL H, 2), with a statue of Ferdinand VII.
(1808-33) in the centre, which was the chief square of the earliest
city. On the W. side of the square stands the President's Palace
{Qohierno ; PL 4, H 2), a large edifice of 1834, with a colonnaded
facade. It also contains the office of the Mayor and City Council.
In the patio is a statue of Columbus. Adjacent, at the corner of
the Calle de O'Reilly, is the Senate Building {Senado, PL 5, H 2;
24 senators). — On the N. side of the Plaza rises the fortress of
La Fuerza (PL H, 2), dating from 1538, with a tower ornamented
by the figure of an Indian girl (view). — On the E. side of the
Plaza is the Templete (PL 9; H, 2), a small church erected on the
spot where the Spaniards celebrated their first mass in 1519. It
contains some paintings by Escobar (shown once a year only , on
Nov. 16th). In front of it is a monument with a bust of Columbus,
shaded by a ceiba-tree, which is said to be a descendant of one
growing on the spot when the city was founded.
A little to the N.W. of the Plaza de Armas is Cathedral
Square, with the Cathedral (^Catedral de la Virgen Maria de la
Concepcidn; PL Gr, 2), a large edifice built by the Jesuits in 1724,
with a central dome and two towers flanking the facade. The interior
contains several paintings, including a small one ascribed to Murillo.
From 1795 to 1898 this church enshrined the remains of Christopher
Columbus, but in the latter year they were removed to Seville.
666 Route 117. MATANZAS.
A walk along the Water Front will give some idea of the eom-
meroe of Havana. We may hegin it at the Office of the Captain of
the Port (Capitania; PL 2, H 2) on the Gaballeria Wharf, at the foot of
O'Reilly St. (p. 665), and end it at the Alameda de Paula (PI. H, 4)
and the qnaint church of San Francisco de Paula. Adjoining the
Luz Plaza is the wharf for the ferry (comp. PI. H, 4) to Regla (comp.
p. 662). The wreck of the 'Maine' (p. 664] is still visible in the harbonr.
Among other points of interest in Havana are La Merced (PI. H, 4),
the most fashionable church in the city ; the Church of San Agusiin
(PL G, 3; 1608); the Belen Church (PL G, 4), belonging to the
Jesuits, with a college and observatory ; the Biblioteca Nacional or
Public Library (PL 1, G 2; ca. 40,000 vols.); the Arsenal (PI.
P, Gr, 5; now occupied by the Department of Public Works); the
Castillo de Atares (comp. inset map at p. 663), built in 1767 and
now a prison ; and the remains of the old City Wall in the Calle de
Monserrate, between the Calle de la Obrapia and Calle de Ricla
(PL F, 3, 4). A visit should be paid to a Tobacco Factory, such as
those of the Henry Clay & Bock Co. (permit obtained at Calle de
Zulueta 10) or the Marca Independiente de Tabacos de Yuelta Abajo.
Excursions. On the Mils to the W. of the city (see inset map on plan;
tramway 5 c; cab $ IV2) lie the Cemetery of Cristobal Colon, containing
many interesting tombs and monuments and affording a good view; the
Castillo del Principe, with a military hospital; and the tfniversity (Uni-
versidad, PL A 3 ; 550 students). — Marianao, reached by railway (fare 20 c. ;
see p. 663) or trolley (fare 10 c.) , is a picturesque summer-resort 6V2 M.
to the S.W., with an ostrich-farm. About 3 M. to the N. of it is the Plai/a
de Marianao, much frequented by bathers. — Ghorrera, ca. 3 M. to the "W.
of Havana, at the mouth of the Rio Alrnendares or Rio la Chorrera, con-
tains an old fort of 1646. — Cojimar (Hotel Campoamor, well spoken of),
3 M. to the If. of Guanabacoa (tramway from Regla, p. 663), is another
watering-place. — A visit should also be made to a Sugar Plantation.
From Havana to Santiago de Cuba, see below; to Pinar del Rio and
Ouane, see R. 118.
117. From Havana to Santiago de Cuba.
632 M. (from Regla Station} Railway in 25 hrs. (through-fares, 1st class
$ 24.03, 3rd class $12.04; sleeper $5). As far as Santa Clara (fares $8.44,
$4.25; sleeper $3) we follow the tracks of the United Railways of Havana
and beyond tha^. those of the Cuba Railroad.
Havana (Regla Station), see p. 662. Through-trains start at
Villanueva Station (p. 662) and proceed by a loop-line via Cienaga
and Jes^is del Monte to (9 M.) Pines, about 1 M. to the S.E. of Regla
Station. 38 M. (from Regla Station) Empalme, junction for (9 M.)
Madruga, (20 M.) Guines, and (36 M.) San Felipe. We then enter
the province of Matanzas. — 53 M. Matanzas {Hotel Louvre, from
$21/2, R. from $ 1 ; Grand Paris, $ 21/2-3 ; Brit. Yice-Consnl, Mr.
St. Hamilton), a seaport with (1907) 36,009 inhab., on the Yumuri
and San Juan Rivers. Visits should be made to the beautiful Yumuri
Valley (to the N.W. ; palms) and (I1/2 ^r. there and back) to the
Caves of Bellamar (aiim. $ 1 ; fine stalactites; carriage $ 1.20 per hr.).
Good view from the Cumbre, -with the hermitage of Montserrate.
SANTIAGO DE CUBA. 117. Route. 667
Beyond Matanzas the line bends to the S.E. 89 M. Jovellanos
is the junction of lines to the seaport and watering-place of (17 M.)
Cardenas (Isla de Cnha, with restanrant; pop. 24,280) on the N. and
to (11 M.) Navajas and (39 M.) Murga on the S. 104 M. Retamal;
107 M. Coldn; 119 M. Macagua; 128 M. San Pedro. Near (136 M.)
Alvare% we enter the province of Santa Clara. 151 M. Santo Domingo^
the junction for (21 M.) Sagua la Grande and (21 M.')Las Cruces. From
(166 M.) Esperanza a line runs to the S.W. via Las Cruces to (36 M.)
Cienfuegos (Union; Grand Continental; Brit, and Ger. Vice-Con.}, a
flourishing seaport (30,100 inhah.) in a rich sugar-growing district.
175 M. Santa Clara (Santa Clara Hotel) ^ a city of (1907)
16,702 inhab. (comp. p. 666). — 199 M. Placetas del Sur; 230 M.
Zaza del Medio, the junction for (4 M.) Sancti Spiritus and (30 M.)
Las Tunas de Zaza. At (235 M.) Jatibonico we reach the province of
Camaguey (formerly Puerto Principe). 272 M. Ciego de Avila (Rail.
Kestaurant) is the junction of lines to Moron and (26 M.) San Fer-
nando on the N. and to (18 M.) Mcaro on the S.
336 M. Camaguey (Hotel Camaguey, $31/2-5^ ^ell spoken of),
one of the most flourishing cities in Cuba, with (1907) 29,616 inhab.
and several interesting churches. Many attractive excursions may be
made in the environs. Camaguey is connected by railway with (46 M.)
the port of Nuevitas (p. 662). — 360 M. Miraflores. Between (390 M.)
Galbis and (396 M.) Bartle we enter the province of Oriente (formerly
Santiago de Cuba). 410 M. Victoria de las Tunas (Rail. Restaurant).
Farther on we cross two branches of the Salado River, a tributary of
the Ri^o Cauto, the largest river on the island. 455 M. Cacocum is
the junction for (11 M.) Holguin and (30 M.) Gibara, on the N. coast.
At (484 M.) Alto de Cedro the line forks, the left branch running
towards the N.E. to the new and busy seaport of (31 M.) Antilla,
while our route bends to the S. — 513 M. San Luis.
From San Luis to Guantanamo, 53 M., Cuba Eastern Railroad in 4 hrs.
(fares $2.27, $1.52). — 14 M. La Maya. — 53 M. Guantanamo {Washington-,
Venus, R. from 75 C; Brit, vice-consul, Mr. Thos. Brooks'), a small but busy
town with (ii^'07) 14,559 inhabitants. — Beyond Guantanamo the railway
runs on (17 M. farther) to Gaimanera, on Guantanamo Bay, within 1 M. of
which is a Uniied States naval and coaling station.
From (522 M.) Mor6n a short line runs to La Maya (see above).
532 M. Santiago de Cuba (Venus, R. from $2V2; Palace or Casa
Grande, R. from $11/2; U. S. Consul, Mr. Ross E. Holnday: Brit.
Consul, Mr. W. Mason), an important seaport, witb (1907) 45,470
inhab., situated on a fine harbour with a narrow entrance guarded
by the guns of Morro Castle (p. 668).
Santiago was founded in 1514 and was for several years the capital of
Cuba. It was in attempting to escape from Santiago Harbour that Admiral
Cerveras squadron was destroyed by the United States fleet on July 3rd,
1898; and Samiago itself surrendered on July I4th. These events were led
up to by the landing of the United States troops at Daiquiri, 15 M. to
the E. of Santiago, on June 20th, and by the battles of San Juan and
El Caney (July Ist and 2nd; p. 668). Lieut. Hobson scuttled the 'Merrimac'
in the entrance to the harbour on Juije 3rd.
668 Route 118. PINAR DEL RIO.
The city stands on a steep slope rising from the harbonr, is snr-
rounded by monntains, and is noted for the "brilliancy of its colonr-
ing. The focns of its life is the Plaza de C^spedes, adjoining which
are the large Cathedral (1522), the Municipal Offices^ the San Ca/rlos
Club, and other noteworthy buildings. Other points of interest
are the Slaughter House, on the water-front, with a tablet commem-
orating the execntion of the crew of the 'Virginins' in 1873 ; the
monument of Dr. Antommarchi, Napoleon's physician at St. Helena
(in the Cemetery); and the fine School built by Gen. Wood on the
top of the hill. The drive to Morro Castle and back costs $ 3-4.
About 3 M. to the E. Ues the battlefield of San Juan (p. 667;
carriage ca. $2). The Peace Tree, under which Gen. Shafter received the
surrender of Gen. Toral (JuIt 17th, 1893), is denoted by inscriptions. —
The battlefield of El Ganey (p. 660 is 4 M. to the X.E. — About 9 M. to
the W. is El Cobre, a copper-mining village, with the Church of K'uestra
Senora de la Caridad, the most famous pilgrim-resort in Cuba. — A good
military road leads to the top of the Puerto de Boniato (view).
Steamers ply regularly from Santiago to Port Antonio and Port Royal
(Jamaica), Havana, Gienfuegos (p. 667), Bataband (see helow), New York, etc.
118. From Havana to Pinar del Rio and Guane.
147 M. Westeen Railway of Havana in 6V3hrs. (fares $7.11, $3.56):
to (110 M.) Pinar del Rio in 41/2 lirs. (fares § 5.51, $ 2.76J. Passengers for
Guane change carriages at San Juan.
Havana (Cristina Station), see p. 663. The train runs towards
the S., passing [91/2 M.) Vento, with the aqueduct carrying the water
of the Almendares Riyer to Havana (comp. p. 664), and (12 M.)
Santiago de las Vegas, with a government experimental farm. —
14 M. Rincdn is the junction of lines to (21 M.) Ouanajdy (comp.
p. 663) and via San Felipe (p. 666) to (21 M.) Bataband (p. 666).
Near (41 M.) Las Canas we enter the province of Pinar del Rio.
The railway runs more or less parallel with the range of the Organ
Mts. (p. 661), which rise a few miles to the N., and traverses one
of the chief tobacco-growing districts of Cuba. 45 M. Artemisa,
with its red-tiled houses, is surrounded by pineapple fields. Our
line bends to the S.W. 64 M. San Cristdbal, a place of some
importance (1456 inhab.). About 8 M. to the N. of (84 M.) Paso
Real are the frequented mineral springs of San Diego de los Bancs
(Hotel Cabairouy). 91 M. Herradura (hotel), an orange-growing
settlement of Americans, with church, schooL and town-hall ; 96 M.
Consolaci6n del Sur ; 100 M. Puerta de Oolpe.
110 M. Pinar del Rio (Hotel Ricardo, $ 3-4. well spoken of;
Globo), a typical provincial capital with (1907) 10,634 inhab., is be-
coming of considerable importance as a centre of the tobacco trade.
The roads in the vicinity are good, and afford many delightful drives.
120 M. San Luis; 125 M. San Juan y Martinez; 131 M. Oalafre;
137 M. Sdbalo; 146 M. Mendoza.
147 M. Guane (Hotel, $ 3), a thriving little town with a trade
in tobacco.
Porto Uico.
Porto Rico or Pvsrto Rico ('Rich Port'), the easternmost of the Greater
Antilles, lies within the Tropics, about 500 M. to the S.E. of Cuba and about
70 M. from the intervening island of Haiti or Santo Domingo, It is about
3500 sq. M. in area, with a length of 105 M. and a width of 25-40 M. It is
traversed from E. to W. by a range of hills, cuLminating in the peak of
El Yunque (3700 ft.) in the N.E. corner. In 1899 it contained 953,243 inhab.,
of whom 589,426 were white and 363,817 coloured. The island is very
fertile, producing large quantities of sugar, tobacco, fruits, and colFee. The
value of its exports in 1907 was nearly $ 27,000,000, that of its imports over
$ 7,000,000. — Porto Rico was discovered by Columbus in 1493, conquered
(mainly by Ponce de Leon, p. 616) in 1508-20, and ceded to the United States
in 1898. It is administered by a Governor appointed by the President of
the United States, who is aided by an Executive Council (also appointed
by the President) and a popularly elected House of Delegates. It is re-
presented at Washington by a Resident Commissioner.
Approaches. Porto Rico is reached direct from the United States by
the steamers of the New York and Porto Rico Steamship Co., leaving New
York at noon on Sat. (Pier 35, N. River) and reaching (1383 M.) iSan Juan
in 41/2-5 days (fares, first cabin §45-50, second cabin $30-35), or by the
steamers of the same company leaving New Orleans once a month (6 days;
1690 M., same fares). In the intermediate weeks the steamers from New York
run to Ponce or Mayaguez (5-6 days). The steamers of the Red D Line run
fortnightly from New York (Pier 11, N, River) to San Juan and Ponce (same
fares and times), while those of the Insular Line run to San Juan every
other Sat. (fare $ 35-45; time same). — Porto Eico may also be conveniently
reached by steamers from Havana, Jamaica, etc.
Railways and Roads. The chief cities, San Juan and Ponce,, are con-
nected by a railway running along the N., W., and S. sides of the island;
but the service is still very inadequate. A famous Military Road, con-
structed by the Spaniards, runs diagonally across the island from San Juan
to (84 M.) Ponce, and the other main roads (450 M. in all) are also good,
offering many attractions for automobile excursions. Those who have a
short time only at their disposal are advised to go by train from San Juan
to Arecibo, drive thence to Ponce, and return by the Military Road (p. 671)
to San Juan. This tour, which may be equally well made in the opposite
direction, gives some idea of the beautiful mountain scenery of the interior
Climate. The climate resembles that of Cuba (p. 662). The extreme
range of temperature is from 55° to 100° Fahr. ; the mean annual temperature
is about 80°, varying from 75° in Jan. to 82° in August. The annual rainfall
averages 60 inches. The prevailing wind is from the N.E. The sanitation
of the island has been greatly improved since its occupation by the United
States; but the visitor should not drink the water unless it has been boiled
Bibliography. The only really valuable books on Porto Rico are in
Spanish. English readers may consult the following works : F. A. Ober,
Puerto Rico and its Resources (New York, 1899); W. Linwiddie, Puerto Rico
(London, 1899); R. A. Van Mitteldyk, The History of Porto Rico (1903). See
also the Annual Reports of the Governor, the Census Report of 1899, and the
Report of the Department of Commerce on 'Commercial Porto Rico in 1906\
Comp. also p. 662.
119. From San Juan Bautista to Ponce.
a. By Railway.
173 M. American Railroad of Porto Rrco in 10-11 hrs. (fare $ 8.34).
San Juan Bautista de Puerto Rico {Inglaterra, $21/2-4; Colonial^
from $ 21/2 ; Las Palmas, at Santuice, p. 670 ; Brit, and Gex. Con.),
the capital of Poito Blco, founded in 1511, stands on a small island
610 Route 119. ARECIBO. From San Juan
connected "by bridges witli a peninsnla of the N. coast. Popnlation
(1899) 32,048. The city is clean and regnlarly built, with spacions
squares and narrow streets. Some of its chief streets are traversed
by electric cars.
San Juan was founded in 1509, under the name of Caparra, on the
S. shore of the bay, but waa transferred to its present site in 1520. The
first Bishop of San Juan was the first Inquisitor of the New World. Drake
attacked the city without success in 1595, but it was captured by Lord
George Cumberland two years later. In 1898 San Juan was bombarded by
the U. S. fleet.
Near the centre of the city is the Plaza Baldorioty or chief
sqnare, where a band plays on Sun. and "Wed. evenings (chair 10 c).
On the N. side of the Plaza is the Town Hall, on the "W. are the
Government Offices CLa Fortaleza'). A little to the N.W, are the
Cathedral (with the tomb of Ponce de Leon, see below), the deserted
Convent of Las Monjas, and the Episcopal Church. A little farther
to the W., facing the entrance to the harbour, are the Governors
Palace and the *Casa Blanca (16th cent.), or old house of the family
of Ponce de Leon. To the S. of the Plaza, adjoining the wharfs and
harbour, is the site of the new Federal Building, with the post
office and custom-house. The scenes on the Marina are picturesque.
Proceeding to the E. from the Main Plaza, we reach the new High
School and the Plaza Coldn, in the centre of which is a Monument
to Columbus. Ponce de Ledn (ca. 1460-15215 p. 669), the founder
of the city, is commemorated by a statue in the Plaza de San Jose,
cast from cannon abandoned by the British in 1797. It stands op-
posite the church of San Jose (formerly the Dominican convent)
The sacristy of the church of San Francisco contains some good
works by Campeche, a notable Porto Rican painter of the 18th cent.,
many fine portraits by whom are preserved in private houses. Other
important buildings are the Military Hospital, the Presbyterian
Hospital (in Santurcel, and the Penitentiary.
San Juan is a good specimen of a walled town, with moat and
battlements. One gate only remains. The fortifications include the
fortresses of San Cristdbal (1771 ; *View), on the E. side of the city,
and the Morro, at the W. extremity of the island. — The Harbour,
which had silted up, is being dredged and improved at great cost.
The picturesque suburb of Catano is reached by ferry across the bay,
and that of Saniurce by railway or electric tramway.
Fkom San Jdan to Carolina, 14 M., railway in 1 hr. (fare 66 c). The line
runs to the S.E. via Saniurce (see above), Martin Pena, and (8 M.) Rio Piedras
(with a large normal school ;nd the remains of the beautiful garden of the
summer-palace of the Spani-^h governors). — Carolina a thriving little town
with 5450 inhab., lies on the Loiza, 7 M. above its mouth.
From San Joan to Cagdas, 22 M., railway in lV2hr (fare 90 c). From
San Juan to (8 M.) Rio Piedras, see above. The line here bends to the
right and runs to the S , more or less parallel with the Military Road. —
22 M. Caguas, see p. 672.
The railway to Ponce diverges to the right from that to Carolina
(see above) and runs towards the W. — 13 M. Bayam6n, on the river
of that name, which it is hoped to make navigable ; 21 M. Dorado.,
to Ponce. PONCE. 119. Route. 671
on the Bib de la Plata, wMch the railway crosses. The line runs
more or less parallel with the N. coast of the island, at a distance
from it of 1-5 M. — 36 M. Manatf; 51 M. Cambalache. — 54 M.
Arecibo (Italiano^ $2; Brit, vice-consul), a seaport with 8000 inhab,
and a considerable trade, lies at the mouth of the Bio Grande de
Arecibo. Near it is the interesting cave of Consejo. From Arecibo
a road (*Views; comp. p. 669) runs across the island, via Utuado
and Adjuntas (both with trade in coffee and tobacco), to (51 M.)
Ponce (see below). — The railway now runs close to the sea. 61 M.
Hatillo; 63 M. Camuy; 69 M. Quehradillas ,- 77 M. Isabela (Rail.
Restaurant). A little farther on the train reaches the N. W. extremity
of the island and bends to the S. (left.). — 80 M. Aguadilla, with
two stations (Puente and Playa)^ is another flourishing seaport with
6500 inhabitants. A road runs inland from it to (13 M.) San Sebastian
and (25 M.) Lares, once busy centres of the trade in coffee. A mon-
umental cross near Aguadilla commemorates the landing of Columbus
in 1493. We cross the Bio Culebrinas. — 102 M. Bincdn. Farther
on we cross the Anasco or Bio Blanco.
117 M. Mayaguez {Hotel Paris, from $ 2; Brit, and Ger. Vice-
Con.), on the Bio Yagiiez, is the third city and seaport of the island,
called at regularly by steamers from San Juan, Ponce, and New York.
Pop. (1899) 15,187. There is a U.S. Agricultural Experimental
Station here. Roads run inland to (16 M.) Maricao and (17 M.) Las
Marihs, two coffee-trading towns. — 123 M. Hormigueros is famous
for its wonder-working shrine, which attracts numerous pilgrims.
The church, picturesquely situated on the edge of a bluff, possesses
two pictures by Campeche (p. 670). — (130 M.) San Oermdn, now
a small and unimportant place, is historically the most interesting
place in the island after San Juan and has a very old church (disused);
Beyond San German the line turns to the E. (left). 151 M. Yauco.
158 M. Guayanilla.
173 M. Ponce (^Hotel Frances, %2^1^-Z; Inglaterra, Melia, Espa-
nol, $2-3; Brit, and Ger. Vice- Con.), the second city of Porto
Rico, has (1899) 27,952 inhabitants. In the centre of the Plaza de
las Delicias stands the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe. The Teatro
de la Perla is a handsome edifice. There are four Protestant Churches.
St. Luke's Hospital is well equipped. Ponce is connected by electric
tramway with its port at (2 M.) Playa de Ponce, whence steamers
ply to many different points. In 1898 Ponce surrendered to the
United States fleet without resistance.
The favourite excursion from Ponce is that to Coamo Springs (p. 672),
a drive of 3 hrs. (by automobile I-IV2 hr.).
b. By Road.
84 M. MiLiTAJar Road (comp. p. 669). The whole distance may be
accomplished by private carriage in 12-14 hrs. (fare ca. $ 16), or by auto-
mobile-st ge in 5 hrs. (fare $ b). The trip may be pleasantly broken by
a night spent at Coamo Springs (p. 672).
672 Route 119. COAMO.
San Juan, see p. 669. The *Military Road reaches the mainland
by a canseway and runs to the S. to (8 M.) Rio Hydras (p. 670). It
is admirably constmcted throughout its whole length, and affords
an excellent idea of the natural features of the island, traversing
mountain, plain, and valley, and crossing numerous streams.
From Rio Piedras the road runs for about 5 M. towards the S.W.
and then turns to the S. (left). — 15 M. (from Rio Piedras) Caguas^
at the junction of a road from (25 M.) Humacao (near the E. coast ;
Brit, vice-consul), is a place with 5450 inhabitants (comp. p. 670).
The road again bends to the S.W.
From Cayey (3760 inhab.), 16 M. from Caguas, a branch of the
military road (traversing some of the best scenery in the island)
leads to the left (S.E.) to (14 M.) Guayama, a place of 5334 in-
habitants. The main road, which is at its finest between Cayey and
Coamo, turns to the right and runs to the W. to (12 M.) Aibonito,
situated nearly 3000 ft. above the sea and commanding beautiful
views. Hence it runs to the S.W. to (12 M.) Coamo {Hotel, fair),
where an unimportant engagement took place in 1898 between the
Spaniards and the United States troops, preliminary to a battle
which was averted by the signing of the peace protocol (Aug. 14th).
About 4 M. to the S., beautifully situated on the river of that name,
are Coamo Springs {Los Banos de Coamo; Hotels very fair), possessing
some much-frequented hot sulphur springs, of great efficacy in cases Oo
rheumatism.
Farther on we cross the Rio Descalabrado and reach (13 M.)
Juana Diaz. Between this point and (9 M.) Ponce (p. 671) we
cross several streams.
gRTlliS i't
VIII. ALASKA.
Route Page
120. From Seattle to Sitka 673
Vancouver Island 675. — Silver Bow and Treadwell
Gold Mines 682.
From Skagway to White Horse 683
Atlin District 683. — Nome. Fairbanks. TJnalaska.
Mt. Logan. Mt. St. Elias. Mt. McKinley 686.
120. From Seattle to Sitka.
The tourist traffic to Alaska is largely in the hands of the Pacific Coast
Steamship Co. of San Francisco, and a pamphlet with all necessary inform-
ation, including stateroom-plans of the steamers, may he obtained from
C. D. Dunann, 112 Market St., San Francisco, or from any agent of the com-
pany. The steamer 'Spokane' of this company (2000 tons burden) makes
about six trips from Seattle to Sitlca and back every summer (June-Aug.)
taking about 11 days to the round journey (fare $100-250, according to
position of berth and stateroom, the highest charge securing the sole occu-
pancy of a large deck-stateroom). This steamer carries comparatively little
freight and calls at Victoria, Ketchikan, "Wrangell, Juneau, Treadwell's,
Skagway, the Taku and Davidson Glaciers, Glacier Bay, Killisnoo, and
Sitka. — The steamships 'Cottage City' and 'City of Seattle' of the same
company sail fortnightly the year round, carry freight as well as pass-
engers, take 12-14 days for the round trip from Seattle (fares $ 80-200), and
call at more points in Alaska. Return-tickets are also issued from San
Francisco (fare from $ 124) for passengers travelling by sea between that
city and Port Townsend (p. 674). The fares from Tacoma, Port Townsend,
or Victoria are the same as those from Seattle. Passengers should secure
their berths in advance. — The steamers of the Alaska Steamship Co. also
ply regularly between Seattle and Skagway and during the tourist season
make occasional trips to the glaciers of Taku Inlet (p. 681). — Steamers
of the Canadian Pacific Railwaij Co. (British Columbia Coast Service) ply
regularly from Victoria and Vancouver to the various points along the
British Columbia coast as far IST. as Port Simpson (p. 677 ; fare $ 17-20) and
also to (5 days) Skagway (p. 682), calling at Ketchikan. The through-fare
to Dawson (p. 684) by this route is about $ 75 in summer, $ 150 in winter
(meals and berths on the steamers included). The passengers by the Canadian
steamers have not always the same privileges as the American steamers in
landing at Alaska points. — Other excursion-steamers occasionally make
the trip to Alaska in summer, but should not be patronized without careful
investigation as to their equipment and the experience of their officers.
The arrangements of the Alaska trip resemble those on the trip to the
North Cape, and it involves no greater hazard or fatigue. There are only a
few hotels in Alaska, and passengers live almost entirely on the steamers.
The weather is generally pleasant in June, July, or August. Warm winter
clothing should be taken, as the nights on board are often very cold,
though the sun may be quite powerful during the day. Stout boots are
desirable for the short excursions on land, and waterproofs are indis-
pensable. Deck-chairs may be bought or hired at the port of departure.
Nearly the whole of the voyage is in the calm channel between the coast-
islands and the mainland, so that sea-sickness need not be dreaded. The
steamers are safe and reasonably comfortable. The *Scenery passed en
Baedeker's United States. 4th Edit. 43
674 Route 120. VICTORIA. From Seattle
route is of a most grand and unique character, such as, probably, cannot
be seen elsewhere at so little cost and with so little toil or adventure. In
the description of the text the usual route of the 'Spokane' is followed. The
approximate distances from Seattle by this course are given in nautical miles
(7 naut. miles = about 8 statute miles). Native curiosities can, perhaps, be
best obtained at Sitka (p. 685), furs at Juneau (p. 6B1). In buying the latter
the traveller, if not an expert, should be on his guard against deception and
should in no case buy except at the larger stores.
Alaska time is 1 hr. behind that of the Pacific standard (p. xiv).
Seattle , see p. 437. The first part of the voyage lies through
*Puget Sound, named from a lieutenant on Vancouyer's vessel, one
of the most beautiful salt-water estuaries in the world, surrounded
by finely wooded shores and lofty mountains. Its area is about
2000 sq.M., while its extremely irregular and ramified shore-line is
nearly 1600 M. long. The usual width is 4-5 M. The depth varies
from 300 to 800 ft., and at many points 'a ship's side would strike
the shore before the keel would touch the ground'. There are nu-
merous islands. A very large trade is carried on in Puget Sound in
timber, coal, and grain. As we proceed Mt. Rainier or Tacoma
(p. 446) is conspicuous to the S.E., while the Olympic Mis. (p. 437)
are seen to the W.
Comp. 'Vancouver's Discovery of Paget Sound', by E. S. Meany (1907).
As the steamer continues to plough its way towards the N., we
obtain a view of Mt. Baker (10,800 ft.), the last outlier of the Cas-
cade Mts., far ahead of us (right). The steamer bends to the left into
Admiralty Inlet ^ the main entrance to Puget Sound. To the right
lies Whidbey Island.
40 M. Port Townsend (Central, Belmonico, R. from $ 1; Brit,
and Ger. Yice-Con.), a picturesque little town of 3443 inhab., lies
partly on the shore and partly on a steep bluff behind, reached by
long flights of steps. It lies at the head of the Strait of Juan de Fuca
and is the port of entry for Puget Sound. The large grey-stone build-
ing on the bluff is the Custom House. To the left lies Fort Townsend,
with a large marine hospital.
Our boat now steers to the N.W. across the Strait of Juan de
Fuca. To the left are the Olympic Mts., ahead lies Yancouver Island ;
to the right, in the distance, rises Mt. Baker. As we approach Vic-
toria, the little city presents a very picturesque appearance. The
conspicuous building on the height to the right is the house of the
late Mr. Dunsmuir, a wealthy coal-owner. To the left of the pier,
among trees, are the barracks of Esquimau (p. 675).
75 M. Victoria (^Canadian Pacific Hotel, from $31/2; Dallas,
$3-5; Driard, $21/2-5, R. from $ IS/^; Victoria, $ 2-4, R. from $ 1 ;
Dominion, $11/2-2 V2) ^- from 50 c.; Poodle Dog Restaurant, D.
75 c.; U. S. Consul, Mr. A. E. Smith; cab per drive, 1-2 pers., 50c.),
the capital of British Columbia, is a quaint and quiet little city with
about 25,000 inhab., forming a strong contrast to the bustling cities
we have just been visiting on the American shores of the Sound.
Victoria, like these, is of recent origin, having been founded as a
to Sitka. NANAIMO. 120. Route. 675
station of the Hudson Bay Co. in 1842 and not beginning to develop
into a town until tlie gold-mining excitement of 1858. The popu-
lation includes a strong contingent of Chinamen. The centre of the
town (IV2 M-) is reached from the wharf by tramway (5 c.). The
Parliament Buildings, forming a tasteful group in a square ad-
joining James Bay, include the Parliament House, the Provincial
Museum ^ Liirary, and the Government Offices. The monument in
front commemorates Sir James Douglas, first governor of the colony.
^Beacon Hill Park should also be visited. The streets are wide and
clean, and most of the private residences stand in gardens rich in
shrubs and flowers. The roads in the vicinity of Victoria are unusu-
ally good and afford charming drives through luxuriant woods of
pine, maples, alders, arbutus, madronas, fern-trees, and syringas.
About 3 M. to the W. of Victoria (tramway, 10 c.) lies Esquimalt,
witli a good liarboiir. Down to 1905 Esquimalt wag the headquarters of
the British Pacific Squadron, but in that year it was handed over to the
Dominion Government, while the Ifavj/ Yard was dismantled. The large
dry-dock (430ft. long) has, however, been retained.
From Victoria to lianaimo, see below. — Steamers ply regularly from
Victoria to Vancouver (see Baedeker's Canada).
Vancouver Island, at the S. extremity of which Victoria lies, is 290 M.
long and 50-80 M. wide, with an area of 20,000 sq. M. The greater part of
its surface is covered with mountains, reaching a height of 6-7000 ft. (Vic-
toria Peak, 7485 ft.), and but little has been reclaimed or settled by Europ-
eans since its exploration by Vancouver in 1793. The two native tribes
are the Nootkas and Selish, a few of whom may be met in Victoria.
From Victoria our course lies to the N., through the Canal de
Haro, which was decided by the arbitration of the King of Prussia
in 1872 to be the line of demarcation between American and British
possessions. To the left lies Vancouver Island , to the right the
San Juan Islands, beyond which the cone of Mt. Baker is long visible.
Looking backward, we see the Olympic Mts., on the other side of
the Juan de Fuca Strait. On issuing from the archipelago of Haro
Strait, we enter the broader waters of the Gulf of Georgia (20-30 M.
wide). Various islands lie off the shore of Vancouver.
105 M. Nanaimo r Windsor, Wilson Ho., $2-21/2 5 t7. S. Con-
sular Agent), a small town on the E. coast of Vancouver, with 6100
inhab., is of importance as the outlet of the extensive collieries of
the "Western Fuel Co. (the headquarters 01 which are in California)
and of the Dunsmuir mines at Ladysmith and Comox (see p. 674).
There are also large saw-mills. The Alaska steamers often stop to
coal here either in going or returning. The pretty, rose-gardened
cottages of Nanaimo are very unlike the grimy abodes of coal-
miners in England, and many of the miners own them in freehold.
The annual output of coal at Nanaimo is about 500,000 tons, and
nearly twice as much is produced at the "Wellington pits, the total
output of the island being about 1,500,000 tons. Nanaimo is con-
nected with (5 M.) Wellington and (73 M.) Victoria by the only rail-
way on the island. — Vancouver (see Baedeker's Canada) lies on the
mainland, directly opposite Nanaimo (steamer, $ 3).
43*
676 Route 120. DISCOVERY PASSAGE. From SeattU
Farther on we see few settlements or signs of life. The shores are
low and heavily wooded, but lofty monntains rise behind them on
both sides, those on the mainland covered with snow. Long, deep,
and narrow fjords, flanked with lofty monntains, run np into the land.
To the right lie Lesqueti Island and the large Texada Island, covering
the entrance to Jervis Inlet, one of the jnst-mentioned fjords, on the
banks of which are quarries of fine slate. Comox (left) on Yan-
couver Island, opposite Texada and 60 M. to the N. of Nanaimo, is
an important coal-mining station, with regular steamer-connections
with Victoria, Vancouver, and Nanaimo. About 80 M. beyond Na-
naimo we leave the Gulf of Georgia and enter ^Discovery Passage,
a river-like channel, 25 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, which separates
Vancouver Island from Valdes Island and is flanked by mountains
3-6000 ft. high. Valdes Island, ending on the S. in Cape Mudge,
occupies nearly the whole channel, and a scheme has been in con-
sideration for running a railway from the mainland to Vancouver
Island by bridges constructed over the narrow waterways here. Be-
hind Valdes Island opens the narrow *Bute Inlet, 40 M. long,
flanked by mountains 4-8000 ft. in height. About the middle of
Discovery Passage are the famous ^Seymour Narrows, 2 M. long and
V2 M- wide, through which the water rushes with great velocity
(sometimes 12 knots an hour). The TJ. S. steamship 'Saranac' was
wrecked in these Narrows in 1875, and their navigation still demands
great skill and caution.
Discovery Passage is succeeded by ^Johnstone Strait, another
similar channel, 55 M. long and 1-3 M. wide, between Vancouver
Island on the left and the mainland itself, or islands hardly distin-
guishable from it, on the right. The Prince of Wales Range, on Van-
couver Island, reaches a height of about 4600 ft.; and the white
summits of the Cascade Range rise to the right beyond the lower in-
tervening hills. The varied beauty of the scenery cannot easily be
indicated in words ; but few travellers will weary of the panorama
unfolded as the steamer advances. — Beyond Johnstone Strait we
thread Broughton Strait (15 M. long), between Vancouver and Cor-
morant and Malcolm Islands. On Cormorant Island lies the Indian
village of Alert Bay, with a salmon-cannery, a totem-pole, and a
native graveyard. The conical summit to the left is Mt. Holdsworth
(3040 ft.).
On emerging from Broughton Strait we enter Queen Charlotte's
Sound, which is 10-30 M. wide and contains many islands, mostly
adjoining the mainland. On the shore of Vancouver lies Fort Rupert,
an old post of the Hudson Bay Co., with an Indian village. A little
later we pass through Goletas Channel and then say farewell to Van-
couver Island, the N. point of which. Cape Commerell, we leave to
the left. For a short time (40 M.) we are now exposed to the swell
of the Pacific Ocean, but this is seldom enough in summer to cause
uneasiness even to bad sailors. To the N.W., in the distance, loom
to Sitka. GRENVILLE CHANNEL. IW, Route. 677
the large Queen Charlotte Islands, the chief home of the Haidas,
the cleverest of the native-tribes of this coast (comp. p. 679). A
full account of the islands is given hy Dr. George M. Dawson in
the Report of the Canadian Geological Snrvey for 1879.
Our course now hugs the mainland and leads at first through
*Fitzhugh Sound, a deep and narrow channel, the W. shore of which
is formed by a continuous series of islands. The sharp peak of Mt.
Buxton (3430 ft.) rises on Calvert Island. As we near the N. end
of the Sound the scenery becomes very grand, huge snowy peaks
towering above the pine-clad hills that line the channel. Beyond the
large Hunter s Island we turn sharply to the left and enter the ex-
tremely narrow and winding *Lama Passage, between it and Denny
Island. On Campbell Island, to the left, is the Indian village of
Bella Bella, opposite which is a graveyard, with totem-poles (comp.
p. 679). Farther on we pass through the wider Seaforth Channel
and reach Millbank Sound, the only other point on the voyage where
we are exposed for a brief interval to the waves of the open sea.
Beyond this sound we enter Finlayson Channel, 24 M. long and 2 M.
wide, between the large Princess Royal Island (48 M. long and 25 M.
wide) and the mainland. Numerous fjords, short and long, run into
the mainland, and several high waterfalls descend from the cliffs. Fin-
layson Channel is continued by Tolmie Channel, Graham Reach, and
Frazer Reach, beyond which we pass through McKay Reach, between
the N. end of Princess Royal Island and GribhelVs Island, into Wrights
Sound. Behind Gribbell's Island is the *Gardner Canal, one of the
grandest and gloomiest fjords on this coast. From Wright's Sound
we enter *Grenville Channel, which runs for 60 M. in an almost
perfectly straight line between Pitt Island and the mainland. It is
flanked on both sides by steep mountains 1500-3500 ft. high, while
still higher mountains rise in the background to the right. At places
the channel is only a few hundred feet wide. Signs of glacier action
are seen on the more distant mountains, while the courses of long
bye-gone avalanches may be traced by the light-green streaks of the
younger growth of trees. Crossing an expansion of GrenviUe Chan-
nel, we next enter the shoTt Arthur Passage, between Porcher Island
(1.) and Kennedy Island (r.), which leads to Malacca Passage and
the wide Chatham Sound. To the right near, the mouth of the
Skeena River, lies Port Essington. Along the Skeena are scattered
innumerable salmon-canneries. The E. side of the Sound is bounded
by the large Chim-sy-an or Tsimpsean Peninsula, which is connected
with the mainland by a very narrow neck of land. On this lie Prince
Rupert, the terminus of the new Grand Trunk Pacific Railway, and
Old Metlakatla, the scene of Mr. Wm. Duncan's interesting ex-
periences in educating the natives (see p. 680) and now a missionary
station of the Episcopal Church of Canada. Higher up is Port Simpson,
a station of the Hudson Bay Co., established in 1831. On the small
island, opposite the Fort, is an interesting village of Tsimpsean
678 Route 120. ALASKA. From Seattle
Indians, who have attained a high measure of civilization and
prosperity. The Nasse River, a little to the N. of the Tsimpsaen
Peninsula, is the chief scene (in spring) of the catch of the ,oulichan'
or candle-fish (Thaleiehthys Pacificus), which furnishes the natives
with the means of artificial light. It is so full of oil that, when
dry and furnished with a wick, it hums like a candle. To the left
lie the Dundas Islands, opposite the northernmost of which opens
Portland Inlet. Just here we cross the houndary-line between the
British and American possessions (54° 40' N. lat. ; the famous 'fifty-
four forty or fight' of 1843) and enter Alaska t. To the left opens
Dixon Entrance, between Graham Island (S.) and Prince of Wales
Island (N.). Between Dixon Entrance and Skagway we pass five
lighthouses.
The territory of Alaska received its name from Charles Sumner in a
speech addressed to the Senate in favor of the purchase of the terri-
tory. It is a corruption of an Aleut word referring to the continent as
distinguished from the Aleutian islands. The boundaries of the territory
comprise the continent and islands adjacent, to the W. of 141° W. long,
and also a strip to the W. of a line drawn parallel to the coast from the
vicinity of Mt. St. Elias (p. 686) in a S.E. direction to the iS^. extreme of
Portland Canal, through the canal in mid-channel, and westward to the
ocean on the parallel of 54° 40' N. lat. The W. limits of the territory, to
the is"", of the Pacific Ocean, include the Aleutian chain, the islands of
Bering Sea, and the eastern of the two Diomede Islands in Bering Strait.
The territory is divisible by its physical characteristics into several
diverse regions. The Sitkan Region, including the coast and islands to
Cook's Inlet on the N. and the Kadiak group on the W., has a rough and
mountainous topography with many glaciers, a bold sea-coast, numerous
fjords and islands, a moist, cool, and equable climate, and a dense covering
of chiefly coniferous forests. — The Aleutian Region includes the peninsula
of Alaska, the Aleutian chain, and the Pribiloff or Fur Seal Islands. It
also has a cool and equable climate, with much fog and wind but less
rain than in the Sitkan region. It consists of broad level areas with
numerous clusters of mountains, few glaciers, many volcanic cones, many
harbours and anchorages ; and, while totally destitute of trees, nourishes
luxuriant crops of grass, herbage, and wild flowers. The Aleutian chain
represents an old line of fracture in the earth's crust; and, contrary to the
usual idea, a large proportion of the islands are not volcanic but com-
posed of crystalline or sedimentary rocks. — The Yukon Region includes
the mass of the continent to the X. of the great peninsula, which has on
its X. border true Arctic conditions, on its W. shores a mild summer and
an Arctic winter, and in the interior a hot short summer and a dry cold
winter, much like that of Minnesota. It is a region oi Tundra: low, un-
dulating ranges of grassy mountains, and extensive, level, more or less
wooded river- valleys.
The products of the Sitkan region are timber, precious metals, salmon,
halibut, and other sea-fish. Petroleum, copper ores, lignitic coal, and ex-
tensive beds of marble exist in many places. The Aleutian region pro-
duces chiefly fox and sea-otter fur, the fur-seal pelts, and a certain amount
of coal. Extensive cod-fisheries are prosecuted along its shores. The Yukon
region produces gold, furs, and salmon. A remarkable characteristic of the
Territory is that, though bordering on the Arctic Ocean and in the S.
t The exact boundary between Alaska and Canada was not definitely
settled till Oct., 1903, when it was determined by a Commission, meeting
in London and composed of delegates from the United States. Great Britain,
and Canada. Iron pillars are being erected to mark the frontier. Comp.
Map, p. 673.
to Sitka. ALASKA. 120. Route. 679
teeming with glaciers, it has still never been subjected to the action of
a continental ice sheet, such as have ground down the coasts of the ana-
logous fjord-regions of 'Sew England and Norway.
The native inhabitants of Alaska belong to four ethnologic stock races:
the Eskimo or Innuit, with their special oflfshoot the Aleutian people; the
Haida Indians of Alaska; the Tlinkit stock of the Sitkan region; and the
Tinneh or Athabascan Indians of the great interior region. In all there are
between twenty and thirty thousand of these natives, independent, self-
sustaining, and mostly well disposed. They are in no direct way related
to any of the present Asiatic races as is so often assumed, but, from the
evidences of the prehistoric shell-heaps, have occupied the region for many
centuries. They live by fishing and hunting; the moose, the caribou, and
the salmon, in the interior, and the hair-seal, the beluga, the cod and other
sea-fishes, the salmon, and wild fowl, on the coasts, furnish their chief
supplies. The fjords and rivers are their roads; with hardly an exception
they are canoe-men everywhere, and throughout the i^. drivers of dogs
and sledges, t
Among the Tlinkit and Haida people one ciistom is forced on the
attention of all who visit their villages. It is that of erecting what are
called Totem Poles, which have various significations, the most common
being that of a 'genealogical tree". A man erects one of their large com-
munal houses, and, in memory of this achievement, puts up in front of
it a cedar pole carved with figures emblematic of the totems of himself
and his ancestors, one above another. The door of the house is frequently
cut through the base of the pole under the totem of the builder; while,
above, the successive totems (which by their social laws must change
with every generation) appear in the order of remoteness.
The estimated area of the territory is 586,400 sq. 31. (thrice that of
France); its total population about 70,000, of which one-third may be
accounted civilized; its chief archipelago, in the Sitkan region, is said to
contain 5000 islands; its total shore line amounts to some 18,200 M.; its
principal commercial port is in about the same latitude as Liverpool; its
southernmost islands lie on the parallel of Brussels; its westernmost vil-
lage is as far W. from the mouth of the Columbia River, Oregon, as Eastport,
Maine, is E. from that point; it includes within its boundaries the highest
mountains, the most supeb glaciers and volcanoes in America to the N. of
Mexico; and presents the anomaly of a territory with only about one in-
habitant to 8 sq. M. which in 20 years paid more than eight million dollars
in taxes. It was transferred by Russia to the United States in 1867 for the
sum of $7,250,000.
To the above paragraphs, which were kindly drawn up for this Hand-
book by Br. Wm. H. Ball, it may be added that since 1867 Alaska has
exported furs, fish, and gold to a total value of at least $ 280,000,000; that
it has absorbed merchandise from the United States during the same period
to the value of $ 150,000,000; and that the investments of American capital
in the territory amount to at least 3 50,000,000. — The first election for
a delegate to Congress was held in 1806.
The fullest account of Alaska is contained in the record of the 'Harri-
man Alaska Expedition' (1899), a work in five huge volumes, written by
the various members of the Expedition and profusely illustrated (1903-4).
A more manageable and also authoritative work is 'Alaska and its Re-
sources' by Dr. Wm. H. Ball. A good popular account is given in Miss
E. R. Scidmore's 'Alaska and the Sitkan Archipelago'. See also A. P.
Swineford's 'Alaska: its History, Climate, and Natural Resources', John S.
Maclain's 'Alaska and the Klondike' (19Ci5), and Ella Eigginson's 'Alaska,
the Great Country' (1908). Comp. 'The Geography and Geology of Alaska",
by Alfred H. Brooks, and other publications of the U. S. Geological Survey.
To the right, as we proceed, juts out Cape Fox., formerly the
site of Fort Tongas. The steamer next enters the Revillagigedo
f Reindeer have recently been introduced into N. Alaska, where they
thrive well and have been of great service to the native population.
680 Route 120. WRANGELL. From Seattle
Channel, with Duke Island and Annette Island to the left. The latter,
the largest of the Gravina gronp (E.), is the seat of Port Chester^ with
the new Metlakatla, founded by Mr. Dnncan on leaving his original
station (see p. 677). To the right, opposite (to the N. of) Annette
Island, lies the large island of Revillagigedo , the chief place on
which is Ketchikan (Steadman Hotel), a town of about 1000 inhab.,
an important mining and fishing centre, the port of entry for S.E.
Alaska and stopped at by all steamers. It has a salmon-cannery and
a large fish-packing establishment. There are two interesting totem-
poles here, and a beautiful walk may be taken up the creek at the
back of the town. On Pennock Island, opposite Ketchikan, is an
Indian graveyard with totems. On emerging from the narrow channel
separating the island of Gravina (left) from Revillagigedo we enter
Clarence Strait, which is 100 M. long and 4-1*2 M. wide and is
bounded on the W. by Prince of Wales Island (130 M. long and
30 M. wide), the seat of considerable copper, and of a little gold
mining. This is one of the seats of the Haidas (comp. p. 677) and
the steamers sometimes call at Old Kasan, on the E. shore, to allow
tourists to see its wonderful totem-poles (75-100 in number). We
are now within what is known as the Alexander Archipelago, about
1100 of the islands of which appear on the U. S. charts. The mountains
on each side of the strait are fine in size, proportions, and colouring.
Near the head of Clarence Strait we steer to the right (E.), between
Etolin Island (r.) and Zarembo Island (1.), and run into Wrangell.
765 M. (from Seattle) "Wrangell, situated on the N. end of the
island of the same name (so called from Baron Wrangell, Russian
Governor of Alaska in 1834), opposite the mouth of the Stikine
River, was rebuilt after a fire in 1906 and now contains about
300 white inhabitants and 250 Tlinkits (p. 679). It was originally
founded by the Russians in 1834 as a fortified post to prevent the
Hudson Bay Co. from ascending the Stikine River for the purpose
of fur-trading, and is still of some importance for its saw-mills and
trade in furs. It was the scene of many conflicts with the natives,
who attacked it in 1840 and 1869. Wrangell was formerly much
visited by tourists on account of its totem-poles (p. 679), but many
of the best of these have been destroyed by fire.
The Tlinkits will interest the visitors, who will at once notice such
customs as the blackening of the faces of the girls (said to have for its
object the preservation of the complexion) and the wearing of labre's, or
small plugs of silver, ivory, wood, or hone, in the lower lip. Curiosities
of various kinds, including lahrets, silver bracelet^, carved horn and wooden
spoons, reed baskets, halibut hooks, gaily painted canoe-paddles, the carved
rattles of the Shamans, and fine carvings in slate may be purchased from
the natives ; and the inquisitive may visit the imperfectly ventilated interior
of one of the huts.
The Stikine River is said to receive 300 glaciers, and its scenery is
very fine. It was for a time used as one of the routes to the gold mines
of the Klondike Region (see Baedeker^s Canada).
Soon after leaving Wrangell we thread our way through the
devious * Wrangell Narrows, where the channel is marked by stakes
to Sitka. JUNEAU. 120. Route. 681
and buoys. The shores here are well-wooded, and at places stretches
of grass border the water like the lawns of an English conntry-honse.
Petersburg., on the W. shore, has one of the largest flsh-canneries in
Alaska and is called at by many of the steamers. Farther on, in
Soukhoi Channel., the scenery is of a more majestic character. The
mountains on either side, though apparently of no very great height,
are covered with snow to within 1000 ft., or less, of the water; and
their shapes are very varied and beautiful. One of the most striking
is the Devil's Thumb (9062 ft.) , a peaked monolith recalling the
Dolomites of Tyrol. We here see the first glaciers of the voyage
(all to the right) : the Le Conte Glacier, high up on the mountain-
side; the IdiXgQT Patterson Glacier; and the Baird Glacier, in Thomas
Bay. About this part of the trip, too, we may meet our first piece
of floating ice; while the effects of the late sunsets (9-10 p.m.)
are indescribably beautiful. The huge slopes of neve, or hardened
snow, are fine.
Soukhoi Channel widens into Frederick Sound , with Cape Fan-
shawe to the right and Kupreanoff Island to the left; but our course
soon leaves this sound and carries us to the N. through the long
Stephens Passage, bounded on the W. by the large Admiralty Island.
Holkham or Sum Dum Bay, to the right, has been the scene of some
placer-mining. Near the head of the passage, to the right, opens
*Taku Inlet, with its fine glaciers, one of which has a sea- face V2 M.
long and 100-200 ft. high. The steamer now usually enters this
inlet to afford a close view of this glacier as a substitute for the
Muir Glacier (see p. 684). The muddy grey water of the inlet is
filled with ice-floes and bergs. The surrounding mountains are of a
fantastic, Dolomitic appearance. The chief settlement of Admiralty
Island is Killisnoo, on its W. coast, with large oil-works. — Just
beyond the mouth of the Taku Inlet we enter the pretty Gastineau
Channel, between Douglas Island and the mainland.
965 M. Juneau (Occidental; Circle City; Juneau) , now the
capital of Alaska (comp. p. 685), is situated on the mainland, on
a narrow strip of comparatively level ground between the sea and a
precipitous, snow-seamed mountain (3300 ft.). Settled in 1880 and
named after a nephew of the founder of Milwaukee (p. 383), it is
occupied mainly by miners. It now contains ca. 2000 inhab., nearly
90 per cent of whom are white. Juneau contains a theatre, several
churches, a woollen mill and other industrial establishments, and
some shops for the sale of Alaskan furs (sea-otter, seal, otter, beaver,
bear, musk-rat, fox, etc.; see, however, p. 674) and the famous Chil-
kat Blankets. The last are made of the hair of mountain-goats and
coloured with native dyes, but genuine examples, worth $60-100,
are now rare, and most of those offered for sale are made of wool
and stained with aniline dyes.
About 1/2 M. to the N. of Juneau is a village of the Auk Indians, a
curious and primitive, but very dirty settlement, which will repay a visit.
682 Boute 120. SKAGWAY. From Seattle
The traveller may bargain here for a trip in an Indian canoe. Behind the
village is a native Cemetery, with curious little huts containing the cremated
remains and personal effects of the deceased.
A well-made road leads from Juneau through the highly picturesque
''Canyon of the Gold Creek, with its waterfalls and small glacier, to (872 M.)
Silver Bow Mines, and offers a trip well worth making if time allows.
The Silver Bow Basin contains gold mines of great promise, and both
quartz and placer mining are successfully prosecuted.
A fine view of the Gastineau Channel is afforded by Mt. Juneau (3590 ft.),
which rises just to the N. of the town and is ascended by a trail leaving
the Gold Creek road 1 M. from Juneau.
On Douglas Island, nearly opposite Juneau, is the famous "Treadwell
Gold Mine, at which the steamers generally call. The mine, which is close
to the wharf and easily visited, has one of the largest quartz- crushing
mills in the world, employing 880 stamps. The quartz does not produce
more than S 1-5 of metal per ton, but is so easily and economically worked
that the profits are said to be enormous. The gold actually in sight is
estimated to be worth 4-5 times as much as the price paid for the entire
district of Alaska (p. 679). Many of the best workers in the mine are
natives, who earn § 3 per day. Many others are Slavs.
As tlie Tipper end of Gastinean Channel is very shallow, the
steamer now returns to its S. end and then proceeds to the N.
through Saginaw Channel, on the "W. side of Douglas Island. This
debouches on *Lynn Canal, a fine fjord extending for 60 M. towards
the N. It is flanked with snow-mountains, rising abruptly from the
very edge of the water to a height of 6000 ft., and presents, perhaps,
the grandest scenic features we have yet encountered. To the left,
on the peninsula between Lynn Canal and Pyramid Harbor (p. 683),
lies Fort William H. Seward, the largest army post in Alaska.
About a score of glaciers, large and small, descend from the
ravines into the fjord, among which the Auk, Eagle (r.), and David-
son Glaciers are conspicuous. The last-mentioned, near the head
of the fjord and on its "W. side, spreads out to a width of 3 M. as
it reaches the water-level, its front being partly masked by a tree-
grown moraine. Passengers are generally landed here for a closer
inspection of the glacier.
Lynn Canal ends in two prongs, named the Chilkoot and Chilkat
Inlets, recently come into prominence in connection with the rush
to the gold district of the Klondike. In these inlets the tourist
reaches the highest latitude of the trip (59° 10' 37" N. ; about that
of the Orkney Islands, Christiania, and St. Petersburg). At mid-
summer there are not more than 3-4 hrs. of partial darkness here.
The Chilkoot Pass (3100 ft.), 28 M. from tide-water, with a very abrupt
seaward slope, was crossed in 1897-8 by 25,000 people and thousands of
tons of freight.
On the E. bank of Chilkoot Inlet (the E. arm) lies Skagway
(Fifth Avenue, Golden North, from $ 21/9). a little town with
about 1100 inhab., the terminus of the White Pass Railway (see
p. 683), now forming practically the only route used in approaching
the Klondike and Yukon districts from the coast. It is furnished
with hotels, outfltting-establishments, and other accommodations
for the miner. The steamer stops here long enough to allow of an
excursion to the head of the pass. Good paths lead from Skagway
to Sitka. WHITE PASS. 120. Route. 683
to Mt. Dewey, Denver Olacier, and various picturesque waterfalls
and lakes. — Dyea, on the W. bank, was formerly a rival of Skag-
way but has been deserted since the opening of the railway. —
On Chilkat Inlet lie Pyramid Harbor and Chilkat, with prosperous
salmon-canneries. There are also other settlements on the inlet.
This is the district in which the fine Chilkat blankets (p. 681) are
made. Good echoes may be wakened off the glaciers.
FaoM Skagway to White Hoese, 111 M., Pacific and Arctic
Railway IWhite Pass and Yukon Route; narrow-gauge) in 7 hrs.
(fare $20; return-fare to White Pass $5; through-fare to Dawson
from Seattle, Vancouver, or Yictoria ca. $ 80 during season of navi-
gation). Travellers are strongly recommended to make at least the
trip to the summit of the pass and back, as the mountain, cliff, and
canyon scenery is very striking, while the construction of the line
itself is also interesting. — The line runs through a level wooded
country to (41/2 M.) Boulder, at the foot of the pass, and then begins
to ascend rapidly. Farther on the railway has been blasted out of
an almost perpendicular wall of living rock, and at (8V2 M.) Clifton
the cliffs actually overhang the track. Below, to the right, we see
the rushing Skagway River and the old trail to the Klondike.
Opposite rise the Saw-Tooth Mts. At (14 M.) Glacier the train is
within 1/2 M. of the great glacier of the Coast Range. We thread
a tunnel and cross a canyon by a steel cantilever -bridge 215 ft.
high. 19 M. Switchback.
2OV2 M. White Pass (2885 ft.), grandly situated at the head
of the pass and commanding a superb view. It lies on the Canadian
frontier and contains both the American and Canadian custom-
houses, while the 'Union Jack' and the 'Stars and Stripes' float
side by side at the station. Small luggage is examined here, and
the search for smuggled gold-dust is a great annoyance to the
tourist. The waters of Summit Lake flow to the Pacific Ocean
through the Skagway River and to Bering's Sea via the Yukon.
We now descend along the Thompson River. 32 M. Log Cabin was
formerly the Canadian customs-station. — 4OV2M. Bennett(2iS6ft.]
luncheon - station) lies at the S. end of Lake Bennett, a narrow
mountain-bound sheet of warer 27 M. long, the E. bank of which
the railway skirts. As we approach (67 M.) Caribou, at the N. end of
Lake Bennett, we cross its outlet, flowing into Nares or Tagish Lake.
Caribou is the starting-point for a visit to tlie gold-producing Atlin
District. A steamer (through-fare to Atlin $ 10) plies via Tagish Lake
and Windi/ Arm to the Taku Arm, at the foot of Jubilee fountain (ca.
9800 ft.). Stops are made at (59 M.) Golden Gate and (74 M.) Taku dtp.
A small railway takes us hence along the Atlintoo River to (3 M.) Scotia
Bay, in Lake Atlin, on which another steamer plies to (5 M.) Atlin (Grand
Hotel, from $3), on the E. bank of the lake.
The train now follows the Watson River to Lewis Lake, the level
of which was lowered during the construction of the railway. Several
684 Route 120. MUIR GLACIER. From Seattle
other small lakes are passed. 75 M. Lansdowne; 881/2 M. Rohinson.
At (1041/2 M.) Wigan a short halt is made to allow a view of
^Miles Canyon [to the right), a ravine 5/g M. long, in which the
water drops 32 ft, while the current runs at the rate of 15 M. per
hour. This canyon and * White Horse Rapids (^/g M. long), just
below it, were frequently dared on raft and scow by the gold-
seekers in the early rush to the Klondike.
Ill M. White Horse (2078 ft. ; White Pass, Commercial, from
$ 3), on Fifty Mile or Lewes River, the present terminus of the rail-
way and the centre of a productive copper -mining district, has
become a place of some importance with ahout 1000 inhabitants.
It is in ahout the same latitude as St. Petersburg.
From White Horse to (ea. 460 M.) Dawson (9000 inhab.), the capital
of the Yukon Territory, see Baedeker's Canada.
From Skagway (p. 682) the steamer returns to the S. end of
Lynn Canal and then bends to the right (N.W.) into Icy Strait.
Opening off this to the right is * Glacier Bay, which extends to the
N.W. for about 45 M., with a width contracting from 12 M. to 3 M.
The mountains immediately abutting on the bay are comparatively
low (-4000-7000 ft.), but as we ascend it we enjoy a magnificent
**View to the left of the Fairweather Range, including (named
from left to right) Mt.LaPerouse (10,740 ft.), Mt. Crillon (15,900 ft.),
ML Lituya (11,832 ft.), and Mt. Fairweather (15,290 ft.). At the
head of the bay is Muir Glacier, the visit to which was, prior to
1899, the grandest single feature of the Alaskan expedition. An
earthquake in that year, however, changed the conditions so entirely,
by disrupting the glacier and filling the bay with ice , that the
steamer cannot now get very near the glacier, which has also lost
much of its scenic impressiveness.
This stupendous glacier is formed by nine main streams of ice uniting to
form the trunk of the glacier, which occupies a vast amphitheatre, 30-40 M.
across. The width of the glacier when it breaks through the mountains
{Pyramid Peak to the W., Mt. Wright and Mt. Case to the E.) to descend
to the sea is about 3 M. The superficial area of the glacier is 350 sq. M.,
or about the same as that of Huntingdonshire or of the Jostedalsbree
in Norway. Dr. John Muir was the first to visit the glacier (1879). Prof.
G-. F. Wright, who explored the glacier in 1886, estimated its rate of
movement at 70 ft. per day in the centre and 10 ft. at the sides (an average
of 40 ft.), as compared with H/2-3 ft. at the Mer de Glace, but Prof.
H. F. Reid, of Johns Hopkins University (p. 207), who spent the sum-
mers of 1890 and 1892 here, found the most rapid movement not more
than 7 ft. per day. Though the glacier thus moved forward at a com-
paratively rapid rate, investigation showed that it lost more ice in sum-
mer than it gained in winter and that its front was retrograding steadily
from year to year. It is evident from the general appearance of the en-
closing hills that the ice-stream once occupied the whole of Glacier Bay;
and numerous features of the moraines and adjacent rocks give proof of
more recent retrocession. Vancouver found the bay blocked by a wall of
ice in 1794. In 1906 Messrs. F.E. and C. W. Wright of the U. S. Geol.
Survey found that Muir Glacier had retreated so far (6 M.) since 1899, that
it has been split into two distinct glaciers by a ridge of rock exposed by
the melting of the ice.
to Sitka. SITKA. 120. Route. 685
The nearest way from Glacier Bay to Sitka would be through
CrossSound and down the W. side of Chichag off Island, but to avoid
the unpleasantness of an outside passage the steamer usually returns
through Icy Strait (p. 684) and Chatham Sound (p. 677). About
one-third of the way down the latter we diverge to the right through
*Hooniah or Peril Sound, between the islands of ChichagoffC^.) and
Baranoff (S.). This strait is wide at first but ultimately contracts to a
width of V2M-J where its wooded hiUs and islets recall the scenery of
Loch Lomond. As we approach Sitka we have a fine view, to the right,
of Mt. Edgecumbe (see below), with its crater half filled with snow.
1395 M. Sitka [Millmore's Hotel, $2), down to 1906 the capital
of Alaska and seat of the governor, is very beautifully situated on
the W. side of Baranoff Island, with a fine bay dotted with green
islands in front and a grand range of snow-mountains behind. The
bay is sheltered by Kruzoff Island, with the extinct volcano Mt. Ed-
gecumbe (2880 ft.), while immediately to the E. of the town towers
Mt. Verstovaia (3210 ft.). Sitka now contains ca. 1200 inhab., two-
thirds of whom are natives. The town was founded in 1804 by
Alex. Baranoff, the first Russian governor of Alaska (see W. Irving' s
'Astoria'), after the destruction by the natives (1802) of the original
Russian settlement in the island (1799), 6 M. to the N. Sitka lies
in 57° N. lat. (about the same as that of Aberdeen or Riga) and,
owing to the Euro Siwo, or Japanese current, has a milder winter
than Boston, in spite of the propinquity of eternal snow (mean sum-
mer temp. 54°, winter 32°). The temperature seldom falls to zero.
The rainfall is high (ca. 90 inches).
On a height to the right of the dock (fine view) stand the ruins of
Barano£r Castle, the residence of the Russian governors, burned down in
1894. — Near the head of the main street, leading from the wharf into
the town, ia the Russo-Greek Church, with its green roof and bulbous
spire, which contains some interesting paintings and vestments (small fee
charged for admission). Many of the natives and half-breeds are mem-
bers of the Greek church, and Sitka is the seat of the Orthodox Greek
bishop of the United States. Several of the substantial old Log Houses of
the Russians are still in use. — Turning to the right at the head of the
main street and following the road along the beach, we reach the buildings
of the Presbyterian Mission, where visitors are welcome. The * Sitka
Museum, a highly interesting collection of Alaskan products, is installed
in a building in the mission-grounds, fitted up like the dwelling of a native
chief, with a totem-pole at the entrance. — By passing up between these
buildings we reach the * Indian Eiver "Walk (a round of about 2 M.),
where the visitor with preconceived ideas of Sitka's arctic climate will
be surprised to find luxuriant vegetation, fine trees, and a brawling brook-
not unlike such typical English walks as the Torrent Walk at Dolgelley.
One of the characteristic plants is the 'Devil's Club' (EcMnopanax horrida).
The Native Village , or Rancherie, lies to the left of the wharf and is
occupied by 800-1000 Sitkans, including many interesting specimens such
as 'Mrs. Tom' and 'Sitka Jack', who are always at home to steamboat
visitors. Tourists occasionally get up canoe races among the natives, and
exhibitions of native dancing are often arranged for their benefit. Behind
the village is the native and Russian cemetery.
Native curiosities may be bought at Sitka comparatively cheap, and a
Russian samovar may still occasionally be picked up here. Travellers should
also visit the office of the Alaskan (10 c), a weekly paper.
686 Route 120. SITKA.
Sitka is the turning-point of our voyage, and we now retrace the
way we have come (via Icy Strait, Chatham Sound, Frederick Sound,
etc.). The distance to Seattle is about 1200 M., taking 5-6 days.
As a rule few stops are made on the homeward journey; but much
fine scenery, previously passed at night, is now seen by daylight.
Passengers for the Canadian Pacific Railway leave the steamer at
Victoria and proceed thence by a smaller steamer to Vancouver (see
Baedekers Handbook to Canada').
Steamers now run regularly fronai Seattle (9 days) and other ports to
Nome (Hotels), on the Seward Peninsula, in the 2T.W. part of Alaska. This
is the headquarters of a district in which large quantities of gold have
been discovered since 189S and contains about 5000 inhabitants. It com-
municates by small steamers with St. MichaeVs, a U. S. military post on
Norton Sound, 110 M. to the S.E., whence river- steamers ascend the
Yukon to (1600 M.) Dawson (see p. 684 and Baedeker''s Canada). — Other
steamers ply to Cordova, on Prince William Sound, whence a railway is
being constructed to the copper-mines of the Copper River Region. The
Cordova steamers go on tj Valdez, at the head of Prince William Sound,
and to Seward (500 inhab.), in Resurrection Bay, on the S. side of the Kenai
Peninsula (4 days from Seattle). From Seward a railway ('Alaska Central
Railway') is in contemplation to (ca. 500 M.) Fairbanks, the largest gold
camp in the interior (ca. $ 8,000,000 yearly), which disputes with Nome (see
above) the position of the most populous place in Alaska (ca. 5000 inhab.).
A steamer of the Alaska Steamship Go, runs monthly, while navigation
is open, from Seward to Unalaska. The sea is generally smooth in summer.
Some of the steamers from Seattle to Nome (see above) also call at Un-
alaska (5 days).
Mt. Logan (19,539 ft.), for a time believed to be the highest mountain
in N. America, is situated in Canada, just beyond the Alaskan frontier,
to the N. of 60° N. lat. and about 45 M. from the coast. A little to the
S.W. of it is Mt. St. EUas (18,024 ft.), first ascended by Prince Luigi of
Savoy in 1897, with the Malespina Glacier on its seaward side. These mountains
are nearly 300 M. to the W. N. W. of Glacier Bay (p. 884) and are not
visible on any part of the trip above described. — Mt. McKinley (20,300ft.),
the real monarch of N. American mountains, rises in Alaska, about 300 M.
to the W. of the international boundary and about 130 M, to the N. of
Cook Inlet, in ca. 63° N. latitude. It stands at the watershed of the Yukon
(see above), the Kuskokwim, and the Susitna (Sushitna), the three greatest
rivers of Alaska, and presents on every side a succession of granite cliffs
and overhanging glaciers. The largest of the latter are the Fidile and Ruth
Glaciers, on the E. slope, and the Eanna Glacier, on the W. On the W. Mt.
McKinley rises abruptly out of a plateau (2500 ft.), abounding in caribou, but
on the E. it is screened by a belt of mountains 8000 ft. in height. From
the S.E. it appears like 'a great bee-hive, weighted down with all the
snow it can possibly carry'. Mt. McKinley was ascended in 1906 by
Dr. Fred. A. Cook, accompanied by Edward Barrille. The ascent took
eight days (Sept. 9-16th). See account published by Dr. Cook under the title
of 'The "Top of the Continent' (New York and London, 1908).
INDEX.
Abbreviations of Names of States and Territories, see p. xliii.
Abbeville, S.C. 581.
Abbotsford, Wis. 337.
Aberdeen, N. C. 581.
Abilene, Kan. 470.
Abington, Mass. 275.
Abrahams Mt., Colo. 494.
Absaroka Mts., Wyo. 453.
Absecon Island, N. .J. 180.
Acambaro, Mex. 643.
Acatlan, Mex. 657.
Acoma, N. M. 479.
Acton, Cal. 531.
Adamana, Ariz. 480.
Adams, Mass. 334.
— Mt., N. H. 334.
, Wash. 444. 469. 50S.
Addison June, JT.Y. 127,
Adirondack, N. Y. 115.
— Junction, Que. 129.
— Lodge, N.Y. 114.
— Mts., N. Y. 104.
Adrian, Mex. 646.
— , Mich. 357.
Afton, Va. 565.
— Junction, la. 425.
Agassiz Mt., N.H. 328.
Agnews, Cal. 522.
Aguadilla, Porto Rico,
671.
Aguascalientes, Mex. 647.
Ahwanee, Cal. 549.
Aiken, S. C. 606.
Airy, Ga. 571.
Ajusco, Mex. 655.
Akron, Colo. 422.
— , 0. 232.
Alabama 572.
Alameda, Cal. 518.
Alamogordo, N. Mex. 487.
Alamosa, Colo. 495.
Alaska 673. 678.
Albany, Ga. 612.
-, N. Y. 91.
— , Ore. 506.
Albert Lea, Minn. 386.
431.
Albia, la. 421.
Albina, Ore. 470.
Albion, Mich. 363.
Albuquerque, N. M. 478.
Alburgh, Vt. 312.
Alcalde, Cal. 530.
Alcatraz Island, Cal. 517
Alert Bay, B. C. 676.
Aleutian Islands 678.
Alexander, N. C. 601.
— Archipelago, Alaska
680.
Alexandria, La. 637.
— , Minn. 399.
— , Va. 228.
— Bay, N. Y. 154.
Alger, Mich. 362.
Algiers, La. 596.
Algoa, Tex. 594.
Alhambra, 111. 399.
— Valley, Cal. 4s5.
Alleghany, Va. 566.
Allegheny Citv, Pa. 200.
— Mts., Pa. 185. 352. 566.
— River 185. 187. 197.
Allen, Wyo. 461.
— Junction, Minn. 39 i.
Allendale, S.C. 608.
Allende, Mex. 644.
Allentown, Pa. 18?.
All Healing Springs, N. C.
570.
Alliance, 0. 349.
Alma, Cal. 520.
— , Colo. 474.
Almaden Mines, Cal. 623.
Alpine Tunnel, Colo. 474.
Altadena, Cal. 537.
Alta Luz, Mex. 656.
Altamont, 111. 409.
Md. 352.
Mo. 425.
N. Y. 96.
Altamore, Tex. 630.
Alton, 111. 400.
Bay, IT. H. 316.
Altoona, Pa. 190.
Alum Springs, Tenn. 583.
Alura Mt., Wash. 438.
Alvarado, Cal. 520.
Mex. 657.
Alvin, Tex. 477.
Alviso, Cal. 520.
Amana, la. 419.
Amarillo, Tex. 633.
Ambrose Channel, N.Y. 2.
Ameca, Mex. 649.
Amecameca, Mex. 65 't.
Amelia Island, Fla. 615.
Amenia, N. Y. 74.
American Falls , Idaho
467.
Americus, Ga. 611.
Ames, la. 419.
Ames bury, Mass. 284.
Ames Mills, N. Y. 106.
Amherst, Mass. 243.
— , N.H. 313.
Amity, Colo. 477.
Ammonoosue Falls, "N. H.
327
— River 325. 303. 305.
317. 318.
Amozoc, Mex. 659.
Ampersand Mt.,N.Y. 108.
Amsterdam, N. Y. 130.
Anaconda, Colo. 4t8.
— , 3Iont. 441.
Anaheim, Cal. 537.
Anasagunticook Lake,
Me. 299.
Anchorage, Ky. 583.
Ancona, 111. 423.
Anderson, Ga. 611.
— , Ind. 409.
— , W.Va. 352.
AndersoDville, Ga. 611.
Andover, Me. 299.
— , Mass. 285.
Androscoggin Lakes, Me.
299
— River 289. 298. 299.
303. 324.
Angevin Mt., Cal. 518.
Animas Canyon, Colo. 494.
Anna, 111. 588.
Annanance Mt., Vt. 318.
Annapolis, Md. 209.
Ann Arbor, Mich. 362.
Annisquam, Mass. 283.
Anniston, Ga. 572.
Annpere, Mich. 356.
Anoka, Minn. 438.
— June, Ind. 350.
Antelope Island, Utali497.
Anthony's Nose, N. Y. 84.
Antietam, Md. 596.
688
INDEX.
Antioch, 111. 387.
Antlers, the, N.Y. 103.
Antonito, Colo. 492.
Antwerp, 0. 409.
Apalachicola, Fla. 630.
Apam, Mex. 656.
Apex, Ariz. 481.
— , N.Y. 231.
Apizaco, Mex. 656.
Apostle Islands, Wis. 396.
AppalacMa, N. H. 325. 3U3.
Appledore Island, N. H.
Appomattox, Va. 564.
Aptos, Cal. 524.
Apalco, Mex. 655.
Aransas Pass, Tex. 593.
Arapahoe, Colo. 471.
Ararat Summit, Pa. 184.
Arbol de la Noche Triste
654.
Arholes, Colo. 493.
Arcadia, Cal. 535.
— , la. 419.
-, 0. 357.
Arch Creek, Fla. 622.
Archer, Fla. 628.
Archibold, Ind. 357.
Arch Rock, Cal. 542.
Areola, 111. 588.
Ardmore, I. T. 424.
Ardsley, -R.Y. 86.
Areciho, Porto Rico, 670.
Arethusa Falls, Is^. H.
326.
Argo, Colo. 422. 473.
Arizona 480. 451.
Arkansas (state) 589.
— Canyon, Colo. 494.
— City, Ark. 431.
, Kan. 476.
— Ri3er 431. 476. 487.
492. 494.
Arkville, N. T. 104.
Arleta Park, Cal. 521.
Arlington, Colo. 427.
— , Wash. 438.
— Heights, Mass. 275.
— House, Va. 227.
Armstrong, Fla. 618.
Aroostook, Can. 291.
Arrochar, N.Y. 72.
Arrow, Colo. 475.
Arrowhead Hot. Springs,
Cal. 485.
Arroyo Seco Canyon, Cal.
537.
Artemisia, Cuba 668.
Arthur's Kill 72.
Arvada, Colo. 473.
Arverne, N. Y. 80.
Asbury Park, N.J. 176.
Ascutney Mt., Vt, 345.
Ashby, Minn. 399.
Asheville, N. C. 599.
Ashford, Wash. 446.
Ash Fork, Ariz. 483.
Ashland, Ky. 567. 582.
Me. 291.
— ; :N^eb. 422.
, N. H. 317.
— , Ore. 506.
, Va. 555.
, Wis. 395.
Ashley Falls, Mass. 336.
• -Hudson, Ind. 229.
Junction, S. C. 602.
608.
• Lake, Mass. 342.
Ashokan Reservoir 101.
Ashtabula, 0. 353.
Aspen, Colo. 499.
Asticou, Me. 296.
Astor, Fla. 625.
Astoria, Ore. 508.
Atchison, Kan. 423. 476.
Atencingo, Mex. 660.
Atequiza, Mex. 648.
Athelstan, Que. 129.
Athens, Ga. 581.
— , N. Y. 85. 88.
— , 0. 404.
-, Pa. 184.
— , Tenn. 577.
Athol, Mass. 335.
Atla, Mex. 643.
Atlanta, Ga. 571.
Atlantic, Mass. 253.
— Beach, Fla. 615.
— City, ^.J. 180.
— Highlands, N. J. 77.
AtUxco, Mex. 660.
Atoka, I.T. 424.
Atotonilco, Mex. 658.
Atoyac, Mex. 657.
Attalla, Ala. 579.
Attica, Ind. 410.
-, N. Y. 144.
Attleboro, Mass. 245.
Atzcapotzalco, Mex. 654.
Auburn, Cal. 464.
-, Me. 298.
-, N. Y. 133.
-, Pa. 187.
— , Wash. 445.
Auburndale, Mass. 241.
Auburn June, Ind. 352.
Augusta, Ga. 607.
— , Me. 289.
— , Wis. 3S5.
Aura, Mex. 644.
Auriesville, N.Y. 130.
Aurora, Ark. 589.
— , 111. 386.
— , Ind. 410. 586.
— , N.Y. 145.
Ausable Chasm, N. Y. 108.
— Forks, N.Y. 128.
— Lakes, N.Y. 112.
— River 108. 110. 115. 126.
Austin, Tex. 594.
— Bluffs, Colo. 490.
— June, Me. 300.
Au Train, Mich. 395.
Avalanche Lake, N.Y. 114.
Avalon, Cal. 535.
Mt., N. H. 326.
Averic Lake, Mass. 340.
Avoca, Pa. 184.
Avon, N.J. 177.
-, Cal. 529.
Axton, N. Y. 108.
Ayer Junction, Mass. 309.
Ayer's June, Me. 291.
Azusa, Cal. 486.
Babylon, N.Y. 81,
Baden, Cal. 521.
Bad Lands, N. D. 440.
Bagby, Cal. 542.
Bagdad, Cal. 484.
Bahama Islands 622.
Baird Glacier, Alas. 681.
Bajan, Mex. 644.
Baker City, Ore. 468.
— Mt., Wash. 674.
Bakersfield, Cal. 530.
Bald Eagle Lake, Minn.
393.
— Head Mt., Mass. 340.
— Knob, Ark. 589.
— Mt., Colo. 489.
, N. H. 329.
, N. Y. 116.
— Mts., Tenn. 601.
Baldwin, Colo. 475.
— , Fla. 628. ^29.
-' N. Y. 124.
— Place, N. Y. 74.
Ballarat, Cal. 484.
Ballston Spa, N.Y. 127.
Balsam, N. C. 601.
— Mt., N. Y. 103.
— Mts., N. C. 601.
Balsas, Mex. 655.
Baltimore, Md. 203.
Bandini, Cal. 537.
Bangor, Me. 290.
Banning, Cal. 550.
Bantam Lake, Ct. 336.
Baraboo, Wis. 385.
Bardstown June, Ky. 583.
Bar Harbor, Me. 294.
Ferry, Me. 291.
Barker, Mont. 485.
Barnegat, N. J. 179.
— Bay, N. J. 178.
— City, N.J. 179.
Barnes ville, Ga. 611.
INDEX.
689
Barnesville, Minn. 399.
Barnet, Vt. 318.
Barnstable, Mass. 279.
BarnweU, Cal. 484.
Barranca, N. M. 493.
Barstow, Cal. 484.
Bartle, Cal. 505.
Bartlett, N. H. 805.
Barton, Vt. 318.
Bartow, Fla. 627.
Basalt, Colo. 499.
Basic City, Va. 598.
Bassett, Cal. 549.
Bass Harbor, Me. 297.
— Point, Mass. 280.
Bass's Camp., Ariz. 482.
Batavia, N. Y. 135.
Bath, Colo. 474.
— , Me. 292.
— , N.H. 318.
Baton Rouge, La. 587.
Battenkil Falls, N. Y.
335.
Battle Creek, Mich. 363.
— Mt., Nev. 462.
Baxter, Mt., N. Y. 113.
Bayard, Fla. 615.
Bay City, Mich. 362.
Bayfield, Wis. 396.
Bay Head, N. J. 177.
Bayou Goula, La. 431.
— Sara, La. 431.
— Teche, La. 596.
Bay St. Louis, Miss. 575
Bayshore, N.Y. 81.
Bay Side, N.J. 179.
Beach Blufi", Mass. 280.
— Haven, N. J. 179.
Bear Hill, N.Y. 84.
— Island, Me. 293.
— Lake, Idaho 467.
— Mt., Pa. 183.
Bearmouth, Mont. 442.
Bear Paw Mts., Mont.
435.
— River Canyon, Idaho
462.
— Valley, Cal. 536.
Beatty, Nev. 463.
Beaufort, S. C. 608.
Beauharnois , Que. 129,
155.
Beaumont, Cal. 550.
— , Tex. 596.
Beauvoir, Miss. 574.
Beaver Falls, Pa. 349.
— Gap, Ky. 583.
— Lake, Wyo. 452.
Becket, Mass. 334.
Bedford, Va. 575.
— Springs, Pa. 190.
Bedloe's Island, N.Y. 71
Beech Hill, Me. 297.
Beeeher's Falls, Vt. 306.
Helen, N. M. 479.
Belfast, Me. 290.
Belfield, N. D. 440.
Belgrade, Me. 300.
Belknap Mt., N. H. 316
Bella Bella, B. C. 677.
Bellair, Fla. 630.
Bellaire, 0. 352.
Belleair, Fla. 627.
Bellefontaine, 0. 409.
Belle Isle, Mich. 361.
Mead, N. J. 158.
Plaine, la. 419.
Belleville, 111.' 416.
Kan. 470. 487.
— , Net. 423.
Bellevue, 0. 357.
Bellingham, Wash. 438.
Bellows Falls, Vt. 310.
Bellport, N. Y. 81.
Belmar, N. J. 177.
Belmont, Cal. 521.
— Plantation, La. 431.
Beloit, Wis. 384.
Belpre, 0. 404.
Belt Mts., Mont. 441.
Belton, Mont. 436.
Bemidgi, Minn. 438.
Bemis, Me. 299.
— , N. H. 305. 326.
Bemus Point, IT. Y. 231.
Benicia, Cal. 465.
Ben Lomond, Cal. 520.
Bennett, Can. 683.
Bennettsville, S. C. 602.
Bennington, Vt. 129.
Benson, Ariz. 552.
-, Minn. 398.
— Mines, N. Y. 131.
Benton, Ark. 590.
Benwood, W. Va. 352.
Berea, Ky. 582.
— , 0. 404.
Berenda, Cal. 529.
Beresford, Fla. 625.
Bergmann, Ark. 689.
Berkeley, Cal. 466.
— , Va. 560.
Berkshire Hills, Mass.
337.
BerliA, Ct. 237.
, N. H. 303.
Mt., N. Y. 343.
Bernardston, Mass. 345
Bernardsville, N. J. 140.
Berrian's Island, N. Y.
247.
Bessemer, Ala. 580.
-, Pa. 200.
Bethel, Ct, 336.
— , Me. 303.
Bethesda, Ga. 610.
Baedekek's United States. 4th Edit.
Bethlehem, N. H. 328.
Pa. 182.
June, N. H. 305.
Bethune, S. C. 613.
Beverly, Mass. 282.
Bibon, Wis. 395.
Biddeford, Me. 287.
Pool, Me. 287.
Big Belt Mts., Mont. 441
Bigelow, Me. 298.
Biggs, Cal. 504.
Ore. 468.
Big Horn, Mont. 440.
Indian, N.Y. 103.
— Moose, N. Y. 118.
Oak Flat, Cal. 465.
549.
Pool, Md. 209.
— Spencer Lake, Me. 298.
Springs, Tex. 638.
Stony Junct., Va. 576.
Timber, Mont. 441.
Trees, Cal. 520. 549.
— Tree Station, Cal. 548.
West Kill Mt., N. Y.
102.
Billings, Mont. 440.
Bill WiUiams Mt., Ariz.
480.
Biloxi, Miss. 574.
Biltmore, if. C. 600.
Bingham, Me. 300.
— Junction, Utah 497.
Binghamton, N. Y. 141.
Bird's Eye, Colo. 474.
— Point, Mo. 589.
Birmingham, Ala. 580.
Biscayne Bay, Fla. 622.
Bismarck Mo. 589.
— , :N-. D. 439.
Black Butte Summit, Cal.
505.
— Canyon, Colo. 496.
— Dome, N. Y. 102.
Blackfoot, Mont. 435.
Black Hawk, Colo. 473.
, Ark. 431.
— Mt., N. Y. 123.
Station, N. C, 599.
— Mts., S. D. 460.
— Point, Fla. 624.
— River 131.
Canal 132.
— Rock, N". Y. 139.
Blackstone June, Mass.
246.
— River 240. 245.
Blaekville, S. C. 606.
608.
Blackwell's Island, N.Y.
71.
Blaine, Wash. 438.
Blair's, Va. 561.
44
690
INDEX.
Blairsville, Pa. 191.
Blanca Peak, Colo. 474.
492.
Blancheater, 0. 405.
Block Island, E. I. 242.
Blockton, la. 425.
Blodgett, lU. 423.
Bloody Brook, Mass. 345.
Bloomer Mt., N. Y. 124.
Bloomingdale, N. Y. 106.
Bloomington, 111. 400.
Bloomville, N.Y. 104.
Blowing Rock, N. C 599.
Blue Canyon, Cal. 464.
Bluefield, W. Va. 576.
Blue Grass Region, Ky.
582.
— Hill, Me. 272.
— Island Junct.,111. 364.
— Lakes, Idaho 468.
— Mt., N. Y. 117.
Forest Park, N. H,
314.
House, Md. 209.
Lake, N. Y. 117.
— Mts., Ore. 468.
, Pa. 140. 187. 209.
— Point, N. Y. 81.
— Ridge, Md. 209.
, Va. 575.
Mts. 209. 565. 571.
— Spring, Fla. 625.
Bluestone June, W. Va.
576.
Bluff Point, N.Y. 126.
Boca del Monte, Mex. 656.
Bog Lake, N. Y. 118.
Boiceville, :N. Y. 102.
Bois^ City, Idaho 468.
Bola, Mex. 645.
Bolivar, Pa, 191.
Bolton, N. Y. 123.
Bond Mt., N. H. 327.
Bonner, Mont. 442.
Bonner's Ferry, Idaho
436.
Bonneville, Ore. 469.
Boone, Colo. 427.
-, la. 419.
Boonville, N. Y. 131.
Boothhay, Me. 292.
Boquet River 110.
Bordentown, N. J. 157.
Boreas, Colo. 474.
Boston, Mass. 253.
Art Exhibitions 256.
Back Bay 268.
Fens 268.
Beacon Mon. 261.
— Street 268.
Berkeley Galleries
Bldg. 263.
Boston Art Club 267.
Boston :
Boston Athenaeum 261
— Athletic Assoc. 267
— Common 259.
— Medical Library 268.
— University 267.
Boylston Street 263.
Cambridge 270.
Cathedral 270.
Cemeteries 259. 269.
Charlesbank 270.
Charlestown 273.
Chickering Hall 267
Churches :
Advent 270.
Arlington St. 260.
Brattle Sq. 267.
Cathedral of the Holy
Cross 270,
Central Congreg. 267
Christ 269.
Christ. Scientist 267
Emmanuel 267.
First Baptist 267.
— Unitarian 267.
Immaculate Concep-
tion 270.
Mt. Vernon 267.
New Old South 267.
Second 265.
Spiritual Temple 267.
Tremont Temple 270,
Trinity 264.
City Hall 262.
Clubs 257.
Commerce, Chamber of
262.
Commonwealth Ave.
267.
Concerts 256.
Congregational Bldg.
261.
Copley Square 263.
Copp's Hill Burial
Ground 269.
Custom House 262.
Emancipation Group
263.
Exchange 262.
Faneuil Hall 262.
Fenway Court 268.
Fine Arts, Mus. of 265.
Franklin Park 269.
— Union 270.
Gardner Coll. 268.
Gov. Building 262.
Hancock Mansion, Site
of 261,
Harbour 274.
HarvardMedicalSchool
268.
— University 270,
High Schools 270,
Boston :
Hist. -Gen. Society 261.
Horace Mann School
267.
Horticultural Hall 267,
Hospitals 267. 270.
Huntington Ave. 267.
Jordan Hall 267.
King's Chapel 261.
Marine Park 270.
Masonic Temple 270.
Maas. Hist. Soc 268.
Mechanics' Hall 267.
Medical and Dental
School 268.
Music, Conservatory Ox
267.
Natural History, Mu-
seums of 263. 268.
New Century Bldg. 267.
— County Court House
261.
Normal Art School 267.
North End 269.
Park 269.
Old Court House 262.
— Granary Burial
Ground 259.
— South Meeting
House 263.
— State House 262.
Opera House 268.
Perkins Institution 269.
Post Office 257. 262.
Potter HaU 267.
Public Garden 259,
— Library 264.
Quincy Market 262.
Railway Stations 253,
Revere, House of 269.
School Street 261.
Shaw Monument 261.
Simmons Hall 268.
Soldiers' Mon. 259.
State House 260.
— Street 262.
Statues :
Adams 270.
Aristides 270.
Boyle O'Reilly 268.
Brooks 264.
Channing 260.
ColUns 268.
Columbus 270.
Devens 261.
Ericson 267.
Everett 260.
Franklin 262.
Glover 267.
HamUton 267.
Hooker 261.
Lloyd Garrison 267.
Mann 260.
INDEX.
691
Boston :
Statues :
Qiiincy 262.
Sumner 260.
Washington 260.
Webster 260.
Winthrop 270.
Steamboats 254.
Street RaUways 255.
Subway 260.
Symphony Hall 256.
267.
Technology, Mass. In-
stitute of 263.
Theatres 256. 263.
Tremont Bldg. 270.
Unitarian Building 261.
Washington Street 262.
Tunnel 260.
Young Men's Christ.
Assoc. 263.
Youth's Companion
Bldg. 270.
Boulder, Colo. 473.
Boulter, Utah 503.
Bound Brook, N. J. 158.
Bowdoin, Mont. 435.
Bowie, Ariz. 552.
Bowling Green, Ky. 584.
Bowman, N. H. 325. 303.
Boyce, Tenn. 583.
Boyes Hot Springs, Cal.
518.
Boy Mountain, N. H. 303.
Boynton, Fla. 622.
Bozeman, Mont. 441.
Bracey, Va. 580.
Braddock, Pa. 191.
Bradentown, Fla. 629.
Bradford, Mass. 286.
-, N. H. 314.
— June, 0. 350.
Brainerd, Minn. 438.
Braintree, Mass. 253.
Branchport, N. J. 176.
Branchville, Ct. 336.
— , S. C. 603. 606.
Brandon, Colo. 427.
— , Va. 561.
-, Vt. 310.
Brandywine River 202.
Branford, Ct. 242.
Branson, Ark. 589.
Brant Lake, '^.Y. 119.
Brattleboro, Vt. 345.
Bravo, Tex. 487.
Bread Loaf Inn, Vt. 310.
Breakneck Mt., N. Y. 84.
Breckenridge, Colo. 474
— , Minn. 398.
Bremerton, Wash. 437.
Brentwood, TT. Y. 80.
Bretton Woods, N. H.
326.
Brevard, N. C. 601.
Brewster, Mass. 279.
— , N. Y. 74. 239.
Briarcliff Manor, N.Y. 74.
Bridal Veil Fall, Cal. 545.
Meadows, Cal. 542.
Bridgehampton, N. Y. 81.
Bridge Junction, 111. 399.
Bridgeport, Ala. 579.
, Colo. 496.
-, Ct. 235.
Bridgeton, N". J. 179. _
Bridgewater, Mass. 278.
, N. H. 317.
Bridgton, Me. 304.
BrigantineBeach,N.J,180.
Brigham, Utah 462.
Brighton, Colo. 475.
— , Mass. 241.
— Beach, Cal. 521.
, N. Y. 79.
Bristol, N. H. 314.
— , Pa. 157.
— , R. I. 245.
— , Tenn. 576.
— , Vt. 310.
British Columbia 438.
Brockton, Mass. 278.
Brockville, Ont. 154.
Brocton, N. Y. 201.
— June, N. Y. 353.
Bronx River 74.
Bronxville, N. Y. 74.
Brook Farm, Mass. 275,
Brookfield, Ct. 336.
-, Wis. 384.
Brookhaven, Miss. 589.
Brooklin, Me. 292.
Brookline, Mass. 274.
Brooklyn, Ct. 24S.
-, N. Y. 74.
Brooksville, Fla. 628.
Brothers, the, N. Y. 247,
Brown Canyon, Colo. 495,
Brownell, Kan. 427.
Brovsrn's Peak, Cal. 587
— Station, N. Y. 101.
Brownsville, Pa. 201.
— , Ont. 353.
— , Tex. 594.
Brownville, Me. 290.
Bruce, N. C. 570.
Bruceville, Md. 209.
Brunswick, Ga. 579.
— , Me. 239.
— , Mo. 425.
— Springs, N. H. 304.
Bryan, Wyo. 461.
Bryant's Pond, Me. 303
Bryn Mawr, Pa. 188.
Buckfield, Me. 299.
BuckUn, Kan. 487.
Buck Mt., N. Y. 123.
Bacyrus, O. 349.
Budd's Lake, N. J. 140.
Buena Vista, Colo. 495.
, Md. 209.
, Mex. 642.
— , Pa. 209.
-, Va. 598.
Buffalo, N. Y. 136.
- Bluff, Fla. 624. 626.
Farm, Wyo. 451.
Buhl, Idaho 467.
BuU HiU, »■. Y. 84.
— Run, Va. 569.
Bunker Hill, Mass. 273.
Bunkie, La. 637.
Bunsen Peak, Wyo. 450.
Burbank, Cal. 531.
Burdett, N. Y. 184.
Burkeville, Va. 602.
Burlingame, Cal. 521.
— , Kan. 476.
Burlington, la. 421.
-, 111. 570.
-, Vt. 311. 126.
Burnham, Me. 290.
Burnside, Ky. 533.
Burnt River, Ore. 468.
Burroughs, Ga. 613.
Bashkill, Pa. 143.
Bushnell, Neb. 460.
-, S. D. 426.
Butte, Mont. 441.
Buttermilk Falls, If.Y. 84.
Butter Mt., N. Y. 84.
Buzzard's Bay, Mass. 279.
Byron, Cal. 529.
Cabazon, Cal. 550.
Cabinet Mts., Mont. 443.
Cabin John Bridge, D. C.
227.
Cache Junction, Utah 462.
Cadillac, Mich. 356.
Cadosia, K Y. 231.
CadyviUe, N. Y. 106.
Caesar's Head, N. C. 600.
Caimanera, Cuba 667.
Cairo, HI. 588.
— , IH.Y. 98.
Cajon Pass, Cal. 48'J.
Calada. Cal. 504.
Calais, Me. 291.
Calaveras Grove, Cal. 465.
Caldwell, Idaho 468.
— , N.Y. 122.
Caldwell's Landing, N. Y.
83.
Calera, Ala. 585.
— , Cal. 521.
— , Mex. 646.
Calhoun Falls, S. C. 581.
44*
692
INDEX.
Caliente, Cal. 530.
— , Nev. 504.
California 463.
— , University of 466.
Calistoga, Cal. 518.
Callahan, Fla. 613.
Calumet, Mich. 395.
Camacho, Mex. 646.
Camaguev, Cuba 667.
Camak, Ga. 607.
Cambridge, Mass. 270.
— Junction, Vt. 315.
— Springs, Pa. 232.
Camden, Me. 292.
-, N. J. 175.
-, S. C. 613.
Camel's Hump, Vt. 315.
Cameron, Cal. 531.
— , Colo. 491.
— , Mo. 426.
— , Is. C. 581.
— Junction, Mo. 425.
Campbell Hall, N. T. 230.
Camp of the Clouds,
Wash. 446.
— Douglas. Wis. 385.
— Ellis, Me. 287.
Campobello, N. B. 302,
Camp Point, HI. 426.
— Rochester, Cal. 484.
— Taylor, Cal. 517.
Campton Village, N. H.
317.
— Vacation, Cal. 518.
Camulos, Cal. 528.
Canaan, Ct. 836.
— , X. H. 314.
Canajoharie, N. Y, 139.
Canandaigua, N. Y. 134.
— Lake, K. Y. 135.
Canastota, N. Y. 132.
Canatlan, Mex. 645.
Candarago Lake, N.Y.131.
Cantield Junction, Ont.
229.
Cannon Mt., N.H. 329.
Canterbury, N.H. 316.
Canton, Me. 299.
— , Miss. 589.
— , Mo. 430.
-, O. 349.
— June, Mass. 245.
Canyon City Colo. 494.
, Tex. 638.
— Diablo, Ariz. 480.
Cap au Gris, Mo. 430,
Cape Ann, Mass. 282,
— Charles, Va. 202.
— Cod, Mass, 279.
— Girardeau, Mo, 430.
— Horn, Cal. 464.
— May, N. J, 181,
— Vincent, N. Y, 154.
Capistrano, Cal. 538,
Capitan, IT, Mex. 487.
Capitan, El, Cal, 545,
Capitola, Cal, 524.
Carbondale, HI, 588,
-, Pa. 184,
Cardenas, Cuba 667,
— , Mex. 647,
Caribou, Me, 291,
Carlin, ISev. 462.
Carlisle, Pa. 189.
— , S. C, 581.
Carmel, if. Y. 74.
by-the-Sea, Cal. 525
Carmelo Mission, Cal, 525
Carneros, Mex, 642.
Carolina, R. I, 243.
-, North, 602,
— , South, 603.
Carpinteria, Cal. 528.
Carquinez Straits, Cal
465. 485.
Carrabasset, Me. 298.
Carrabelle, Fla. 630.
Carrigain Mt,, N.H. 305
Carrizo Mts., Tex, 638,
Carrizozo, X. Mex. 487.
CarroUton, Ga. 611.
— , La, 431,
— , Mo. 425,
— , l^'.Y. 231,
Carson, Ner. 463,
Carter, Wyo, 461,
— Dome, N. H, 324,
Carthage, Ark, 589.
— 17, C, 581,
-, N. Y. 131.
— Junction, HI, 421,
Casa Grande, Ariz. 551,
Casas Grandes, Mex. 645.
Cascade, N. Y. 133,
— Canyon, Colo. 498.
— Lakes, N. Y. 110,
Locks, Ore. 46ff,
Mts., Wash, 444, 469.
Tunnel Station, Wash,
436,
Casco Bay, Me, 288,
Cashmare, Wash. 436,
Casselton, N, D, 439.
Cass Lake, Minn. 399.
Cassville. Wis. 429,
Castaic, Cal. 528.
Castano, Mex. 644,
Castile, N. Y. 144.
Castle, N. Y, 231,
Canyon Utah 497.
Crags, CaL 505.
— Dome Mts,, Ariz. 551.
— Gate, Utah 497.
— Rock, Cal, 505.
, Colo. 488,
, Ore. 468.
Castle Rock, Utah 461.
— Stevena, :S. J. 73.
Castleton, N. Y. 85.
— , Ky, 582.
Castroville, Cal. 524.
Cataract Canyon, Ariz.
483.
Catasauqua, Pa, 182,
Catawba, N. C, 581. 599.
Catawissa, Pa. 187.
Cathedral Rocks, CaL 545.
Catherine Lake, La, 575.
Catlettsburg, Ky, 567.
Catoctin Mts. 350.
Catorce, Mex. 642.
Catskill, N. Y, 98, 85,
— Mt, House, N, Y. 99.
— Mts., N. Y. 97.
— Station, N. Y. 88.
Cavendish, Vt, 310,
Cayuga, N. Y. 133.
— Lake, :n\ Y. 145.
Cazadero, Cal, 517.
— , Mex, 649,
CazenoviaLake, N,Y, 132.
Ceballos, Mex, 646,
Cecilia, Ky, 586,
Cedar Creek, Colo. 496.
— Falls, la, 387,
— Key, Fla, 629.
— Point, Colo, 471.
— Rapids, la, 419.
— Swamp, R.L 243.
Cedral, Mex. 642.
Celaya, Mex, 643.
Celilo, Ore, 468.
Central City, Colo. 473,
, Ky. 586,
Centralia, 111. 416, 588.
— , Wash. 446.
Central Square, N. Y,
231,
Centre Harbor, N. H, 316,
Ossipee, N. H. 319.
Village, N.Y. 184.
Cerro Summit, Colo. 496.
Chaffin BlufiP, Va. 560.
ChalchicomTila, Mex. 656.
Chalmette, La. 636.
Chama, N.M. 493.
Chambersburg, Pa. 193.
Chamouni, Pa, 185,
Champaign, 111. 58S.
Champlain, N.Y, 312.
Hotel, N.Y. 126.
Lake, N.Y. 124.
Chancellorsville, Va. 555.
Chapala, Mex. 648.
Chapel Hill, N. C. 570.
Chapultepec, Mex. 654.
Charlemont, Mass. 335.
Charleroi, Pa. 200.
Charles City, la. 386.
INDEX.
693
Charles River 270. 275,
Charleston, S.C. 603.
-, W.Va. 567.
Charlestown, Mass. 273.
— W.Va. 597.
Charlotte, N. C. 570.
-, N.Y. 153.
Charlottesville, Va. 565.
Charlotte Valley ,N.Y.104.
Charm Lake, Fla. 627.
Chateaugay, N. Y. 312.
— , Que. 129.
— Lakes, N.Y, 106.
Chatham, Mass. 279.
-, N.Y. 334.
— , Ont. 229.
— Sound, B. C. 677.
Chatsworth Park, Cal.
529,
Chattanooga, Tenn, 578.
Chautauqua, N.Y. 231.
— Lake, N.Y. 231.
Chazy Lake, N.Y. 106.
Cheat River 352,
Chef Menteur, La. 575.
Chehalis, Wash. 446.
Chehaw, Ala. 572.
Chelan Lake, Wash. 436.
Chelsea, Mass. 275. 280.
Chemung River 184.
Cheney, Wash. 444.
Cheneyville, La. 637.
Cheraw, S.C. 613.
Cherokee, la. 421.
Cherryfield, Me. 291.
Cherry Mountain, Me.
303.
— Run, W.Va. 351.
— Valley, N.Y. 96.
Chesapeake Bay, Md.
203.
Cheshire Harhor, Mass,
334.
Chester, 111. 430.
— , Mass. 334.
— , Pa. 202.
-, S.C. 603. 581.
-, Vt. 310.
Chestertown, Md, 208.
Chester Valley, Pa. 188.
Chestnut Range, Pa. 191.
Chetopa, Kan. 424.
Cheyenne, Wyo. 460.
— Canyons, Colo. 490.
— Mt., Colo. 490.
— Wells, Colo. 471.
Chicago, HI. 366.
Armour Mission 379.
Art Institute 371,
Auditorium 370.
Board of Trade 873.
Chamber of Commerce
373.
Chicago :
Churches 378.
City Hall 373,
County Building c373.
Criminal Court 378.
Dearborn St. 375.
Drainage Canal 373.
Drexel Boul. 376.
Federal Building 373.
Field Museum 377.
Fine Arts Building 370.
Grain Elevators 379,
Grand Boul. 376.
Grant Park 371.
Historical Society 378.
Hull House 379.
Jackson Boul. 373,
— Park 376.
John CrerarLibrary3/8.
Lake Shore Drive 376.
La SaUe St. 373.
Lincoln Park 376.
Logan's Statue 371.
Medical District 379.
Michigan Ave. 371. 376.
Newberry Library 378.
Parks 371. 375. 376.
Post Office 368.
Prairie Ave. 376.
Public Library 372.
Pullman CarWorks 380.
Rookery 373.
State St. 375.
Stockyards 379.
Studebaker Bldg. 370.
Theatres 368.
Union Park 379.
University 377.
Van Buren St. 375.
WaddeU Lift Bridge 370.
Washington Park 376.
Water Works 876.
Chicago Junction, 0. 352.
— Lakes, Colo. 473.
Chichester, N.Y. 102.
Chickahominy River 559.
561.
Chickamaugua, Ga. 578.
Chico, Cal. 504.
Chicopee, Mass. 344.
Chihuahua, Mex. 645.
ChilhualnaFallSjCal. 549.
Childwold, N.Y. 118.
Chilkat, or
Chilkoot, Alaska 682.
ChiDicothe, HI. 423.
— , Mo. 426.
— , O. 404, 576.
Chim-sy-an, B. C. 677.
Chino, Cal. 550.
Chinook, Mont. 435.
Chinquapin, Cal. 548.
Chipppawa, Ont. 152.
Chippewa Falls, Wis.
387.
Chittenango, N.Y, 132.
Chloride, Ariz, 483.
Chocorua Mt. , N.H. 317.
Cholula, Mex. 659.
Christians burg, Va. 576.
Church's Ferry, N. D. 435.
Ciego de AvUa, Cuba, 667.
Ci^naga, Cuba 666.
Cienfuegos, Cuba, 667.
Cima, Colo. 493.
Cimarron, Colo. 496.
Cincinnati, 0. 405.
Circleville, 0. 576.
Cisco, Tex. 638.
, Utah 497.
CitlatepetlMt., Mex. 656.
Citra, Fla. 628. 629.
Citronelle, Ala. 574.
City Island, N. Y. 247.
— Point, Fla. 620.
, Va. 560.
Ciudad Juarez, Mex. 645.
— PorfirioDiaz,Mex.644.
Clairs, N. B. 291.
Clarcona, Fla. 626.
Claremont, Va. 561.
, N. H. 314.
Junction, N.H. 314. 345.
Clarence Strait, Alaska
680.
Clarenceville, Que. 312.
Clarksburg, W.Va. 404,
Clarkston, Wash. 444.
Clarksville, Ga. 571.
, Mo. 430.
Clark University, Mass.
82.
Clatsop Beach, Ore. 508.
Clay Center, Kan. 470.
Mt., N.H. 334.
Clavmont, DeL 202.
Clavton, Miss. 587.
"N.Y. 154.
Clear Creek, Colo. 473.
, Utah 497.
Clear Lake, N.Y. 107.
District, Cal. 518.
Clearwater, N.Y. 116.
Cleburne, Tex. 477.
Clermont, Fla. 626.
-, N.Y. 85.
Cleveland, 0. 353.
— , Tenn. 578.
Cleverdale, N.Y. 123.
Clifton, Ariz. 552.
-, Mass. 280.
— , N.Y. 72. 2.
— Forge, Va. 566,
— Springs, N.Y. 184.
Climax, Colo. 474.
Clinch Mt., Tenn. 577.
694
INDEX.
Clinton, la. 419.
-, m. 399.
— , Ky. 588.
-, S.C. 581.
— Mt., 1^. H. 333.
Cloudcroft, N. Mex. 4S8.
Cloud's Rest, Cal. 547.
Cloverdale, CaL 518.
Clum Hill, S.Y. 102.
— Road, N.Y. 98.
Clyde, Colo. 491.
Coahoma, Miss. 587.
Coahuila, Mex. 642.
Coalgate, I.T. 424.
Coalinga, Cal. 580.
Coalmont, Tenn. 579^
Coamo, Porto Rico 6(2.
Coatesville, Pa. 188.
Coatzacoalcos , Mex. 657,
Cobleskill, N.Y. 96.
Cobourg, Ont. 135.
Cobre, Nev. 462.
CocliituateLake,Mass.241.
Cocliran, Ga. 579.
Ya. 580.
Cocoa, Fla. 620.
Cocoanut Grove, Fla. 622
Coconimo Butte, Ariz. 480
Cody, Wyo. 422.
Ccsur d'Alene, Idato 442
443.
Coeymans, N.T. 85.
Cohasset, Mass. 276.
Cohoes, N.Y. 127.
Coliutta, Ga. 579.
Cojimar, Cuba 666.
Cokeville, Xev. 467.
Golden Lake, N.Y. 114.
Cold Spring(Long Island).
N. Y. 80.
(on Hudson) 84. 87,
Cole, Ore. 506.
Colebrook, N.H. 306.
Colfax, Cal. 464.
-, la. 420.
Colima, Mex. 649.
CoUege Corner, 0. 403.
— Park, Ga. 572,
Collegiate Peaks, Colo
474.
Corners, N.Y. 96.
Collins Hot Springs,
Wasb. 469.
ColoneFs Cbair, N. Y.
102.
Colorado (state) 471.
— City, Colo. 489.
— Desert 536. 550.
— Grand Canyon, Ariz.
481.
— Junction, Colo. 474.
— Mts., Tex. 594.
— Biver481.483.551.594,
Colorado Springs, Colo.
488.
Colton, Cal. 550.
— , Utab 497.
Columbia, Me. 291.
— , S. C. 603.
— , Tenn. 579.
— , District of 212.
— FaUs, Me. 291.
— River 468. 508.
Columbus, Ga. 572.
-, Ky. 430. 589.
— , Mont. 441.
— , Neb. 460.
— , O. 349.
— , Tex. 594.
-, Wis. 384.
— Junction, la. 425.
Colvin Mt., N.Y. 113.
Comancbe Canyon, N.M.
493.
Comber, Ont. 358.
Commerce, Mo. 430.
Como, Colo. 474.
— , N.J. 177.
— Lake, Minn. 390.
Compton, Cal. 534.
Conanicut Island, R.I. 252
Concepcion del Oro, Mex
642.
Conception, Mo. 425.
Concord, Mass. 306.
-, N.H. 313.
— June, Mass. 309.
— River 306.
Conejos Mts., N.M. 493.
Conemaugb, Pa. 191.
— Lake, Pa. 191.
Conewago, Pa. 188.
Coney Island, N.Y. 79.
Conger's, N.Y. 88.
Congress, Ariz. 483.
Connecticut (state) 235.
— Lakes, Vt. 3C6.
— River 344. 238. 242.
Connellsville, Pa. 201.
ConnersviUe, Ind. 403.
Constable, N.Y. 129.
Constitution Island, N.Y.
84.
Continental Divide, Wyo.
461.
Contoocook, N.H. 314.
Contreras, Mex. 655.
Convent, La. 431.
Conway, N.H. 319.
— Centre, N. H. 304.
— Junction, Me. 285.
Cook's FaUs, N.Y. 230.
Coolidge, Kan. 477.
Coon Rapids, la. 417.
Cooper, W.Va. 576.
Cooperetown, N.D. 439.
Cooperstown, N.Y. 96.
Coos Junction, N. H. 305.
Copake Iron Works, N.Y.
74.
Copemisb, Mich. 356.
Coplay, Pa. 182.
Copley, CaL 505.
CopperviUe, N.H. 303.
Copple Crown Mt., N.H.
316.
Corcoran, Cal. 484.
— Mt., Cal. 464.
Cordoba, Mex. 657.
Corinth, Miss. 579.
— , N.Y. 119.
Corliss, Wis. 381.
Cornelia, Ga. 571.
Cornell, Mt., N.Y. 102.
Corning, N.Y. 142.
CornwaU, Cal. 528.
— , N.Y. 90.
— , Ont. 155.
— Bridge, Ct. 336.
Corona, CaL 486.
— , Colo. 475.
— , N. Mex. 487.
Coronado Beach, Cal. 539.
Corpus Chris ti, Tex. 593.
Corry, Pa. 187.
Cortez Mts., Nev. 462.
Corvallis, Ore. 506.
Corydon, Ind. 417.
Coshocton, 0. 349.
Co teau Landing, Que. 155.
Coteaux, the, N.D. 439.
Cottage City, Mass. 277.
— Farm, Mass. 241.
Cotter, Ark. 589.
Cottonwood Canyons,
Utah 503.
— Hot Springs, Colo. 474.
Coulee, Wash. 444.
Council Bluffs, la. 417.
— Grove, Kan. 427.
— Rock, N. Y. 96.
Covina, Cal. 549.
Covington, Ky. 408.
— , Tenn. 586.
-, Va. 566.
Cowan, Tenn. 579.
Cowpens, S.C. 571.
Coxsackie, N.Y. 85. 91.
Coytesville, N.Y. 73.
Craggy Mt., N.C. 600.
Craig Pass, Wyo. 456.
Cranberrv, N. C. 576.
— Isles, Me. 297.
Crane, Ark. 589.
Crater Lake, Ore. 506.
Crawford Hou8e,N.H. 325,
— Mt., N. H. 305. 326.
— Notch, N.H. 305. 325.
Crazy MU,, Mont. 441.
INDEX.
695
Creede, Colo. 492.
Creedmoor, N.Y. 80. 24.
Crescent City, Fla, 624.
— Point, E. I. 86.
Cresson, Pa. 191.
Crested Butte, Cool. 496.
Crestline, Nev. 504
— O. 349.
Creston, la. 421.
Crestview, Fla. 630.
Cripple Creek District,
Va. 576.
, Colo. 491.
Crocker, Ind. 229.
Crocker's, Cal. 465.
Crookston, N.D. 434.
Croom, Fla. 628.
Croton Lake, N.Y. 74.
— Point, N.Y. 83. 87.
Crow Agency, Mont. 422.
— Nest, N.Y. 84.
Crown Point, Fla. 626.
, Ind. 350.
, N.Y. 125.
Crucero, Cal. 504.
Cruger^s I., N.Y. 85.
Crystal Cascade, N. H. 323
— City, Fla. G28
, Mo. 416. 430.
— Lake, Mich. 356.
, Vt. 318.
Cuatro Cieneges, Mex.644.
Cjiautla, Mex. 655.
Cuba, Isl. 661.
Cuba, Ala. 580.
-, N.Y. 231.
Cucamonga, Cal. 550.
Cuchara, Colo. 492.
Cuernavaca, Mex. 655.
Cul-de-Sac, Wash. 444.
Cullman, Ala. 585.
CuUom's, O, 586.
Culpeper, Va. 569.
Cumberland, Me. 289.
— , Md. 351.
— Falls, Ky. 583.
— Gap, Tenn. 577.
— Island, Ga. 610.
— Junction, Me. 289.
— Mills, Me. 304.
— Mts., Ky. 583.
— River 585.
— Valley, Pa. 189.
Cumbres, N.M. 493.
Cupertino, Cal. 522.
Curie's Neck, Va. 560.
Currecanti Needle, Colo.
496.
Currituck Sound, Va. 562.
Cushman, Ark. 589.
Caster, Mont. 440.
Cutler, Fla. 622.
Cypress Gate, Fla. 625.
Cypress Point, Cal. 525.
Dade City, Fla. 629.
Daggett, Cal. 504.
Dailey's, Mont. 450.
DaleviUe, Ark. 590.
Dalhart, Tex. 487.
Dallas, Tex. 637.
— City, m. 429. 423.
— Divide, Colo. 494.
Dalles, Ore. 469.
— of the Wisconsin 384
Dalton, Mass. 334.
Damariscotta, Me. 292.
Dana Mt., Cal. 548.
Danbury, Ct. 336.
Danielson, Ct. 248.
Dannemora, N.Y. 106.
Dansville, N.Y. 142.
Danville, Ky. 583.
— June, Me. 297. 303.
— , Va. 570.
-, Vt. 318.
Darien, Ga. 613.
Dark Harbour, Me. 292
Dartmouth College 346.
Dauphin Gap, Pa. 189.
Davenport, Fla. 625.
-, la. 420.
— Centre, N.Y. 104.
Davidson Mt., Nev. 463.
Davis, Cal. 465.
— Junction, 111. 417.
Dawson, Can. 684.
— , N. Mex. 487.
Dawson's Camp, Colo. 494
Dayton, Idaho 462.
0. 404.
Ore. 508.
Tenn. 583.
Daytona, Fla. 619.
Dayton's Bluff, Minn. 380.
Dead River, Me. 298.
Deadwood, S.D. 422.
Deal Beach, N.J. 176.
Dearborn, Mo. 426.
De Beque, Colo. 499.
Debsconeag Lakes, Me.
291.
Decatur, Ala. 579.
-, 111. 401
, Ind. 232.
Deception Mt., N. H. 327.
Decherd, Tenn. 579.
Deerfield, Mass. 345.
Deer Isle, Me. 292.
Lodge, Munt. 441.
Park Hotel, Md. 352.
Springs, Cal. 463.
Defiance, O. 352. 409.
— Mt., N.Y. 125.
De Funiak Springs, Fla.
630.
Dekalb, lU. 419.
De Land, Fla. 625.
Delano, Cal. 530.
Delanson, N.Y. 96.
Delaware (state) 202.
— , O. 404.
— Bay 181.
— & Hudson Canal 90.
— Mts. 230.
— River 140. 143.
— Water Gap, Pa. 140.
De Leon Springs, Fla. 626.
Delhi, N.Y. 231.
Delmar June, la. 417.
Del Monte, Cal. 524.
— Norte, Colo. 492.
— Rio, Tex. 591.
Delta, Cal. 505.
— , Colo. 496.
Deming, N.M. 552.
Denison, la. 419.
— Tex. 424.
De'nmark, B.C. 613.
Dennison, 0. 349.
Denver, Colo. 471.
Denville, N.J. 140.
Deposit, N.Y. 143.
Derby, Nev. 463.
De Smet, Mont. 442.
Des Moines, la. 420.
De Soto, Miss. 431.
Despair Island, R. L 252.
Detroit, Mich. 358.
-, Minn. 439.
Devereux, Mass. 280.
Devil's Lake, Wis. 385.
, N.D. 435.
— River, Tex. 591.
— Thumb, Alaska 681.
Devon, Pa. 188.
Dexter, Me. 290.
Lake, Fla. 625.
Diablo Mt., Cal. 519.
Diamond Peak, Ore. 506.
Dickerson, Md. 350.
Dickey, Colo. 474.
Dickinson, N.D. 440.
Dillsboro, N.C. 601.
Dingman's Ferry, Pa. 143.
Dinsmore Point, N.Y. 86.
Dinwiddle, Va. 580.
Disappointment Mt., Cal.
537
Discovery Passage, B.C.
676.
Dismal Swamp, Va. 564.
Disputanta, Va. 564.
Dixfield, Me. 299.
Dix Mt., N.Y. 114.
Dixon, m. 419.
Dixville Notch, N.H.:306
Dobb's Ferry, N.Y. 86.
Dodge Centre, Minn. 387.
696
INDEX.
Dodge City, Kan. 477.
DodgeviUe, lU. 421.
Dolores, Colo. 493.
— Hidalgo, Mex. 642.
Dome Rock, Colo. 474.
Donaldson Point, Mo. 430.
Donaldsonville, La. 431.
Donner Lake, Cal. 463.
Dorchester, Mass. 246.
Dorris, Cal. 505.
Dos Rios, Mex. 644.
DosweU, Va. 555.
Dotsero, Colo. 495.
Douglas Island, Alaska
681.
Dover, Ga. 610.
— , Me. 290.
-, N.H. 286.
— Plains, N. Y. 74.
Downington, Pa. 188.
Dragoon, Ariz. 552.
Drain, Ore. 506.
Drake, lU. 424.
Drayton Island, Fla. 624
Drewry Bluff, Va. 559.
560.
Drifton, Fla- 630.
Driftwood, Pa. 185.
DrummondLake,Va. 56i.
Dry Mt., Me. 295.
Duarte, Cal. 549.
Dublin, :N. H. 309.
Dubuque, la. 386.
Duffields, Colo. 491.
Dulutb, Minn. 393.
Dumas, Mo. 423.
Dumplings, the, R. I.
252.
Dunbar, La. 575.
Duncannon, Pa. 189.
Dundas Islands, B.C. 678
Dundee, Mich. 356.
Dunderberg Mt. , N. Y.
89.
Dunedin, Fla. 627.
Dunkirk, N. Y. 353.
Dunlay, Tex. 591.
Dunmore Lake, Vt. 310.
Dunnellon, Fla. 628.
Dunn's Creek, Fla. 624
DunravenPass, Wyo.459.
Dunsmuir, Cal. 505.
Dunwoodie, N.Y. 74.
Dupont, Ga. 612.
Du Quoin, HI. 588.
Durand, Mich. 356. 364
Durango, Colo. 493.
-, Mex. 645.
Durant, Miss. 589.
Darbin, W.Va. 351.
Durham, N. C. 570.
Durisco's, Fla, 625.
Durkee, Ore. 468.
Duston's Island, N. H.
314.
Dutch Flat, Cal. 464.
— Cap Canal, Va. 560.
Dutchess Junction, N. Y.
84. 87.
Duxbury, Mass. 276.
Duyvirs Dans Kamer,
N.Y. 84.
Dwight, m. 400.
Dyersburg, Tenn. 586.
588.
Dyersville, la. 386.
Eads Jetties, La. 432.
Eagle Bay, N.Y. 116.
— Flight, Tex. 638.
— Lake, Me. 295.
, N.Y. 117.
— Mine, Fla. 629.
— Pass, Tex. 591.
— Peak, Cal. 547.
— River Canyon, Colo.
Eagles' Mere, Pa. 185.
East Alton, lU. 409-
Eastatoia Falls, Ga. 571
East Aurora, N. Y, 186.
— Branch, N. Y. 231.
East Buffalo, N. Y. 136.
— Dubuque, 111. 429.
— Gloucester, Mass. 283.
Greenwich, R. I. 243.
Eastham, Mass. 279.
Easthampton, Mass. 344,
N. Y. 81.
East Lee, Mass. 340.
Machias, Me. 291.
Mahanoy June, Pa
187.
Eastman, Ga. 579.
East Mt., Mass. 335.
Easton, Pa. 144.
— , Wash. 444.
East Palatka, Fla. 618.
East Point, Ga. 611.
Eastport, Me. 302.
— , N. Y. 81.
East Portland, Ore. 470.
506.
— Radford, Va. 576.
— River,N.Y. 29. 31.247.
— Side, 111. 357.
— Thompson, Ct. 246.
Eastwick's, Pa. 173.
Eatontown, N. J. 179.
178.
Eau Claire, Wis. 385.
— Gallie, Fla. 620.
Echo, Utah 461.
— Canyon, Utah 461.
— Lake (near N.Conway),
N.H. 322.
Echo Lake (near Profile
Ho.), N. H. 329.
— Mt., Cal. 537.
Echota, N.Y. 139.
Economy, Pa. 201.
Eden, Fla. 621.
Edgartown, Mass. 277.
Edgecumbe Mt. , Alaska
685.
Edgefield Junc.,Tenn.584
Edgeley, N.D. 439.
Edgemar, Cal. 521.
Edgemere, N.Y. 80.
Edgemont, Neb. 422.
Md. 209.
Edgerton, Colo. 488.
Edgewater, N.J. 73.
Edgewood, Cal. 505.
-, Ct. 237.
— , m. 588.
— , N.Y. 102.
Edmeston, N.Y. 231.
Edwall, Wash. 436.
Effingham, HI. 409. 588.
Egg Harbor, N.J. 180.
Ejutla, Mex. 660.
Elberon, N.J. 178. 176.
Elberton, Ga. 581.
El Cajon Valley, Cal. 539-
El Capitan, Cal. 543.
El Castillo, Mex. 648.
Eldon, la. 425.
Eldorado, HI. 588.
, Kan. 427.
— Canyon, Ariz. 483.
Electric Peak, Wyo. 451.
452.
Elgin, HI. 417.
-, Ore. 468.
El Hule, Mex. 657.
Eliot Glacier, Ore. 469.
Elizabeth, N. J. 156.
— Junction, N.J. 144.
Elizabethport, N.J. 157.
Elizabethtown, N. Y. 109.
-, Pa. 188.
Elka Park, N.Y. 102.
Elk Creek, Colo. 473.
Elkhart, Ind. 357,
Elkhorn, Neb. 460.
Elkins, W.Va, 351.
— Park, Pa. 182.
Elk Lake, N.Y. 112.
— Mts., Colo. 496.
— Park, Colo. 494.
Elko, Nev. 462.
Elk River, Minn. 438.
Ellaville, Fla. 630.
EUensburg, Wash. 444.
EUenville, N.Y. 230.
ElUeott, Md. 208.
EUinwood, Kan. 477.
Ellis, Kan. 470.
INDEX.
697
EUis Island, N. Y. 72. 3.
Elliston, Va. 576.
EUsworth, Kan. 470.
-, Me. 291.
Elmira, N. Y. 142.
Elmwood Farm, Me. 298.
— June, N. H. 313.
Elon College, N. C. 570.
El Paso, Tex. 591.
del Norte, Mex. 591.
de Robles, Cal. 526.
El Portal, Cal. 542.
El Pizmo, Cal. 526.
Elrov, Wis. 385.
El Salto, Mex. 650.
Elsinore, Cal. 485.
El Tore, Cal. 538.
Elyria, O. 356.
Embudo, N. Mex. 493.
Emerson, Can. 399.
Emigrant Gap, Cal. 464.
— Peak, Mont. 450.
Emporium, Pa. 185.
Encarnacion, Mex. 647.
Encino, Cal. 529.
Engle, N. Mex. 479.
Englewood, HI. 358. 229.
232.
— , S. D. 422.
— , KJ. 73.
English Lookout, La. 575
Enon, Pa. 349.
Ensenada, Cal. 539.
Ensenore, K.Y. 133.
Enterprise, Fla. 620.
Ephrata, Pa. 186.
Equinox Mt., Vt. 129.
Erastina, N.Y. 72.
Erebus Mt., N.Y. 123.
Erie, Pa. 187.
— Canal 92.
— Lake 137. 365.
Errol Dam, N. H. 303.
Escalon, Mex. 646.
Escondido, Cal. 538.
Esopus Creek 91. 101.
Espanola, N. Mex. 493.
Espanola, Fla. 618.
Esperanza, Mex. 656.
Esquimalt, B.C. 675.
Essex, N.Y. 125.
— , Ont. 358.
— Junction, Vt. 315.
Estabrook, Colo. 474.
Estes Park, Colo. 473.
Estrella, Ariz. 552.
Etiwanda, Cal. 486.
Euba Mills, N.Y. 114. 119
Eugene, Ore. 506.
Eureka, Cal. 518.
— , Fla. 625.
-, Nev. 462.
Eva, Cal. 520.
Evaneton, 111. 380.
— , Wyo. 461.
Evansville, Ind. 417.
-, Wis. 385.
Eveletn, Minn. 394.
Everett, Ga. 613. 579.
— , Wasb. 436.
— Mt., Mass. 338.
Everglades, Fla. 612.
Evergreen, Ala. 573.
Everts Mt., Wyo. 450. 451
Excelsior Springs , Mo
426.
Exeter, Cal. 530.
— , N.H. 286.
Fabyan House, N. H. 327.
Fabyan's, N.H. 305.
Fairbanks, Alaska 686.
Fairbury, Neb. 423.
Fairfax, S.C 613.
Fairfield, Ct. 235.
— Lake, N. C. 601.
Fair Haven, Ct. 242.
Fairbaven, Mass. 278.
Fairhope, Ala. 574.
Fairmont, Neb. 422.
Fairmount, W.Va. 352.
Fair Oaks, Va. 559.
Fairplay, Colo. 474.
Fairport, N.Y. 140.
Fairview, Colo. 491.
—, N.Y. 116.
Fairweatber Mts., Alaska
684.
Fallbrook, Cal. 538.
Fall River, Mass. 252.
Falls View, Ont. 358.
— Village, Ct. 336.
Falmouth, Mass. 277.
Famoso, Cal. 530.
Fargo, N.D. 439.
— , Ont. 358.
Faribault, Minn. 387.
Farmingdale , N. J. 179
177.
Farmington, Ct. 239.
-, Me. 298.
Farrallone Islands, Cal.
516.
Far Rockaway, N.Y. 80
81.
Fayetteville , N. C. 602
570.
Felton, Cal. 520.
Fenwick, Ct. 242.
Fergus Falls, Minn. 399
Fergusson's, Va. 561.
Fernald Point, Me. 297,
Fernandina, Fla. 615.
Fernando, Cal. 531.
Fernside, Mass. 340.
Field Mt., N. H. 326.
Finlayson Channel, B.C.
677.
Firehole River 453.
Fire Island, N.Y. 80. 2.
First View, Colo. 471.
Fisher's Island, Ct. 242.
Point, N.J. 180.
Fishkill, N. Y. 84. 239.
Landing, N.Y. 87. 239.
Fitchburg, Mass. 309.
Fitzhugh Sound, B.C. 677.
FitzwilUam, N.H. 309.
Flagstaff, Ariz. 480.
Fleischmann's, N. Y. 104.
Flomaton, Ala. 573. 631.
Flor de Maria, Mex.
643.
Floral Park, N. Y. 80.
Florala, Ala. 573.
Florence, Ala. 579.
-, Cal. 534.
— , Colo. 494.
— , Kan. 476.
g rj ego
Florida '(state) 611. 612.
— , Mo. 424.
Florissant, Colo. 498.
Flovilla, Ga. 579.
Flowing Well, Cal. 551.
Floyd Mt., Ariz. 480.
Flume, N.H. 329.
— Cascade, N. H. 326.
— Mt., N. H. 330.
Flushing, N.Y. 81. 247.
Folkston, Ga. 612.
Fonda, N.Y. 130.
Fond du Lac, Wis. 387.
Ford City, Pa. 201.
Fordham, N.Y. 73. 235.
Forest, Ga. 611.
— Lake, Minn. 393.
Forestport, N.Y. 116.
Forked Lakes, N.Y. 117.
— River, N.J. 179.
Fork's Creek, Colo. 473.
Forsyth, Ga. 611.
Fort Abr. Lincoln, N.D.
440.
— Adams, Miss. 431.
— Ann, N.Y. 127.
— Assinniboine, Mont.
435.
— Bascon, N, Mex. 487.
— Benton, Mont. 435.
— Bliss, Tex. 488.
— Brooke, Fla. 625.
— Buford, N.D, 435.
— Collins, Colo. 474.
— Cralo, N.Y. 85.
— Crawford, Colo. 494.
— Custer, Mont. 440.
— Davis, Tex. 591. 638.
— Defiance, N.Mex. 479.
698
INDEX.
Fort Dodge, la. 421.
— Douglas, Utah 502.
— Edward, N.Y. 127.
, Ont. 365.
— Erie, Ont. 139.
— Fairfield, Me. 291.
— Forty, Pa. 184.
— Fote, Va. 223.
— Gates, Fla. 624
— Gratiot, Mich. 365.
— Hamilton, ]S'.Y. 2.
— Hancock, Tex. 591.
— Harrison, Va. 559.
Fortin, Mex. 657.
Fort Jackson, La. 432.
— Kent, Me. 291.
— Keogh, Mont. 440.
— Lafayette, N. Y. 2. 83.
— Lauderdale, Fla. 622.
— Lee, KJ. 73.
— Lewis, Colo. 493.
— Logan, Colo. 474.
— Madison, la. 423. 429.
— McPherson, Ga. 611.
— Mill, S.C. 603.
— Monroe, Va. 563.
— Montgomery, N.Y. 89.
— Myers, Fla. 627.
— Niagara, N.Y. 153.
— Payne, Ala. 579.
— Pierce, Fla. 621.
— Pillow, Tenn. 431.
— Powhatan, Va. 561.
— Pulaski, Ga. 610.
— Patnam, N.Y. 90.
— Riley, Kan. 470.
— St. PhUip, La. 432.
— Sanders, Tenn. 577.
— Scott, Kan. 427.
— Sheridan, HI. 380.
— Smith, Ark. 590.
— Snelling, Minn. 3G0.
— Steele, Wyo. 461.
— Samter, S.C. 604.
— Thomas, Ky. 408.
— Ticonderoga, N.Y. 125.
— Tompkins, N.Y. 2.
— Tongas, Alaska 679.
— Totten, N.D. 435.
— Wadsworth, N.Y.72.2.
— Washington, Va. 228.
— Wayne, Ind. 349. 357.
— WiU. Henry, N.Y. 123.
— Worth, Tex. 637.
— Yellowstone, Wyo. 450.
Forty Foot Bluff, Fla.
625.
Foster, Cal. 539.
Fostoria, O. 357.
Fountain City, Wis. 429
— Geyser, Wyo. 453.
Foxcroft, Me. 300.
Fox Lake,^m. 387.
Francisco, Colo. 492.
Franconia, N.H. 330.
— Mts., N.H. 328.
— Notch, N.H. 829.
Frankenstein Cliff, N.H
305.
Frankford, Pa. 157.
Frankfort, Mich. 356.
Franklin, Mass. 246.
— , Me. 291.
— , N.H. 314.
— , N.Y. 231.
— Mt., N.H. 333.
Franklinton, N.C. 580.
Franklinville, N.Y. 185
FrankviUe, Md. 352.
Fredalba, Cal. 536.
Frederick, Md. 350.
— Sound, Alaska 681.
Fredericksburg, Va. 555.
Fredericton, N. B. 290.
Freehold, N.J. 177.
Freeport, HI. 386. 421.
-, N.Y. 81.
Freeville, N.Y. 146.
Fremont, Neb. 460.
French Lick Springs, Ind.
410.
Frenchman Bay, Me. 291.
294.
French Mt., N. Y. 123.
Fresnillo, Mex. 646.
Fresno, Cal. 530.
Frontenac, Minn. 384.
, Can. 154.
Front Royal, Va. 597.
Fruitvale, Cal. 520.
Fruitville, Fla. 629.
Frveburg, Me. 304.
Fuiton, CaL 518.
, m. 429. 426.
, Kv. 586.
— Chain, N.Y. 116.
Junction, HI, 419.
— Lakes, N.Y. 116.
Fundy, Bay of. Can. 302.
Gadsden, Penn. 579.
Gainesville, Fla. 628.
, Ga. 571.
, Tex. 477.
Galafre, Cuba 668.
Galata, Mont. 435.
Galena, Ark. 589.
-, 111. 386. 421.
Galesburg, HI. 421.
Galilee, N. J. 177.
Gallon, O. 404. 409.
Gallatin, Mont. 441.
— Mts., Wvo. 452.
Gallitzin, Pa. 191.
Gallup, N.Mex. 479.
Galveston, Tex. 594.
Gananoque, Ont. 154. •
Ganoga Lake, Pa. 184.
Gap, Pa. 188.
Garcia, Mex. 642.
Garden City, Kan. 477.
, N. Y. 80.
— of the Gods, Colo. 49a
Gardena, Cal. 534.
Gardiner, Me. 289.
— , Mont. 450.
Gardiner's Bay, N. Y. 80.
— Island, N. Y. 81.
Gardner, Mass. 335.
Garfield, Utah 603.
— Mt., N. Y. 108.
— Peak, Colo. 494.
Garland, Colo. 492.
Garnett, S.C. 613.
Garos, Colo. 474.
Garrison, Mont. 441.
-, N.Y. 87.
Gary, Ind. 857.
Gaston, S.C. 618.
Gate of the Mts., Mont.
435.
Gaviota, Cal. 526.
Gay Head, Mass. 277.
Gaylord, Mich. 362.
Gedney Channel, N.Y. 2.
Genesee Falls, N.Y. 135.
Junction, N.Y. 140.
— River 135. 144.
Genes eo, lU. 420.
-, Kan. 427.
Geneva, N.Y. 134.
George Lake, N.Y. 122.
, Fla. 624.
Georgetown, Colo. 473.
-, D. C. 227.
-, Ky. 582.
-, S. C. 602.
Georgeville, Que. 319.
Georgia (state) 579.
, Gulf of 675.
Georgians, Ala. 573-
Germantown, N.Y. 85.
Pa. 175.
Gethsemane, Ky. 583.
Gettysburg, Pa. 192.
Geyser Springs, Cal. 518.
GeyserviUe, Cal. 518.
Giant of the Valley, N. Y.
113.
— Forest, Cal. 484.
Giant's Stairs Mt., N. H.
305. 326.
• Washbowl, N. Y. 112.
Gibbon River, Wyo. 462.
Gifford, S.C. 613.
Giffords, N.Y. 72.
Gila Bend, Ariz. 552.
Gilbertville, Me. 299.
Gillett, Colo. 498.
INDEX.
699
GiUow, Mex. 658.
Gilman, 111. 399.
Gilroy, Cal. 524.
Girard, 111. 400.
-, Pa. 201.
Glacier, Alaska 684.
— Bay, Alaska 684.
— Point, Cal. 545.
Gladstone, N. J. 140.
— N. D. 440.
Glasgow, Mo. 424.
— , Mont. 435.
— June, Ky. 583.
Glen Allen, Va. 555.
Glenbrook, Ne^. 463.
Glencoe, Ont. 229.
Glen Cove, N.Y. 80.
Glendale, Mass. 337.
— , Ore. 506.
Glendive, Mont. 440.
Glendora, Cal. 486.
Gleneida, Lake, N.Y. 74.
Glen Ellen, Cal. 518.
Glen EUis Falls, N. H.
323
— Eyrie, Colo. 490.
— House, N. H. 323.
— Lake, N. Y. 127.
— Lyn, Va. 576.
Glenmore, N. Y. 112.
Glenn's Ferry, Idaho 468.
Glen Onoko, Pa. 183.
Glens Falls, N.Y. 127.
Glen Station, N. H. 305.
— Summit, Pa. 183.
Glenwood, Minn. 438.
— Springs, Colo. 499.
Glorieta Pass, N. M. 478.
Gloucester, Mass. 283.
Glyndon, Md. 209.
— , Minn. 439.
Goat Island, N. Y. 149.
, E. I. 248.
Goble, Wash. 447.
Godfrey, 111. 400.
Goflfs, Cal. 484.
GogebicRange, Wis. 395.
Gold Creek, Mont. 442.
Golden, Colo. 473.
— Gate, Cal. 516.
Golden's Bridge, N.Y. 74.
Goldfield, Nev. 463.
Goldsboro, N. C. 570.
Golf, 111. 381.
Gonzalez, June, Mex.642.
Good HarborBeach, Mass,
283.
Goodland, Colo. 423.
Gordon, Ga. 611.
Gordonsville, Va. 565.
Gore Mt., N. Y. 119.
Gore's, Fla. 625.
Gorham, N. H. 324.
Goshen, Cal. 530.
-, N. Y. 142.
— , Va. 566.
Gothics, N.Y. 113.
Governor's Island, N.Y.
72. 2.
Grafton, 111. 430.
N. D. 399.
W.Va. 352.
Granada, Cal. 521.
Grand Avenue, Mo. 423.
— Bay, Ala. 574.
Canyon Sta., Ariz. 481.
Crossing, 111. 358.
Grande Ronde Valley,
Ore. 468.
Grand Forks, N.D. 398.
— Gorge, N.Y. 104.
— Haven, Mich. 364.
— Hotel Sta., N. Y. 103.
— Island, Neb. 460.
, N. Y. 153.
— Isle, Vt. 311.
— Junction, la. 419.
, Colo. 497.
— Lake, La. 431.
-, Me. 291.
— Manan, N.B. 302.
— Rapids, Mich. 362.
— River, Colo. 495.
— Tower, 111. 430.
Grange City, Ore. 468.
Granger, Wyo. 441.
Granite, Colo. 495.
— Canyon, Colo. 498.
, Wyo. 460.
Grant, Colo. 474.
Grant City, N.Y. 72.
Grant's, N. Mex. 479.
— , Ore. 468.
— Park, Cal. 484.
— Pass, Ore. 506.
Grass Valley, Cal. 464.
Grassy Key, Fla. 623.
Gravina, Alaska 680.
Gray's Lake, Ul. 387.
— Peak, Colo. 473.
Great Barrington, Mass.
338.
— Blue Hill, Mass. 245.
— Falls, Mont. 435.
— Salt Lake, Utah 502.
— SmokyMts.,Tenn.577.
— South Bay, N.Y. 80.
Beach, N. Y. 80.
— Swamp, R. I. 243.
— Temple ButteUtah 503.
Greeley, Colo. 475.
Greenbrier White Sul-
phur Springs , W. Va.
Greencastle, Ind. 409.
-, Pa. 189.
Green Cove Springs, Fla.
624.
Greendale, N.Y. 88.
Greeneville, Tenn. 577.
Greenfield, Mass. 335.
— , N. H. 313.
Green Lake, Me. 291.
Colo. 473.
Greenland, Fla. 615.
— , N. H. 284.
Green Mt., Me. 295.
Falls, Colo. 498.
— Mts., Vt. 310.
Greenport, N.Y. 80.
Green River, Utah 497.
, Wash. 445.
, Wyo. 461.
Greensboro, N. C. 570.
Greensburg, Kan. 487.
-, Pa. 191.
Green Springs, O. 357.
Greenville, Ala. 573.
-, Ct. 247.
-, Fla. 630.
-, HI. 409.
-, Me. 301.
— , Miss. 431.
— , N. H. 309.
-, S.C. 571.
Greenwich, Ct. 235.
Greenwood, S.C. 581.
— , La. 637.
— Lake, N.Y. 142.
Gregory, Tex. 593.
Grenada, Miss. 587. 588.
Grenville Channel, B.C.
677.
Gretna, Can. 398.
GreylockMt., Mass. 343.
Griffin, Ga. 611.
Griffin's Corners, N. Y.
104.
Grimsby Park, Ont. 363.
Grindstone, Me. 291.
Grinnell, la. 420.
Grizzly Peak, Cal. 544.
Grosse Pointe, Mich. 361.
Groton, Ct. 243.
— , Mass. 309.
-, N. Y. 133.
— , Vt. 318.
Grottoes, Va, 598.
Groveton, N. H. 304.
Guadalajara, Mex. 648.
Guadalupe, Cal. 526.
— Mex. 647. — 654. -
656.
— Hidalgo, Mex. 654.
Guanajuato, Mex. 648.
Guane, Cuba 668.
Guantanamo, Cuba 667.
Guaymas, Mex. 552.
Guerneville, Cal. 518.
700
INDEX.
Guilford, Ct. 242.
— Court House, N. C. 570.
Guinea, Va. 555.
Gulfport, Miss. 575.
Gulf Summit, N. Y. 143.
Gunnison, Colo. 496. 475.
Gurdon, Ark. 590.
Guthrie, Okla. 476.
Guttenbere, la. 429.
-, N. J. 73.
Guyandotte, W. Va. 567.
Guyer Hot Springs, Idaho
468.
Guyot Mt., N. H. 327.
Guyton, Ga. 610.
Gypsum City, Kan. 427.
Habana, Cuba 662.
Hackberry, Ariz. 483.
Hackensack, N. J, 142.
— River 88. 142.
Hackettstown, K". J. 140.
Haddonfield, N.J. 180.
Hadley, Mass. 345.
— , N.Y. 119.
Hagerman Pass, Colo. 499.
Hagerstown, Md. 189.
Hagersville, Ont. 358.
Hague, N.Y. 124.
Haigler, l^eb. 422.
Hailey, Idaho 468.
Haines' Corners,X.Y. 103.
— Falls, N.Y. 103.
Hale Mt., N. H. 327.
Half Dome, Cal. 544.
— Moon Bay, Cal. 521.
Halfway, Colo. 474.
Hallandale, Fla. 622.
Halleck, Nev. 462.
HaUs, Pa. 185. 187.
Halstead, Kan. 477.
Hamburg, 111. 430.
— , S. C. 607.
Hamilton, Mass. 283.
— , Mont. 442.
-, 0. 403.
— , Ont. 364.
— Mt., Cal. 523.
Hamilton's Crossing, Va,
555.
Hamlet, N. C. 581.
Hammond, Ind. 403.
— , La. 589.
Hammond's MULs, R. I.
243.
Hammondsport, N.Y. 136
Hammondville, N.Y. 125
Hampton, Fla. 628.
— , Miss. 587.
-, N. H. 284.
-, Va. 563.
— Beach, N. H. 284.
— Roads, Va. 561.
Hance's Ranch, Ariz. 482.
Hancock, Mich. 396.
— , N. H. 313.
— Point, Me. ^91.
Hanford, Cal. 484.
Hanging HiU, Ct. 237.
Hanna, Wyo. 461.
Hannibal, Mo. 425.
Hanover, N. H. 345.
-, Pa. 188.
Harbor Islands, N. Y. 123.
Hardeeville, S.C. 60S.
Harlem, Mo. 425.
River. N. Y. 30.
Haro, Canal De, B.C. 675.
Harold, Cal. 531.
Harper's Ferry, W. Va.
351.
Harriman, Tenn. 583.
Harrington, Me.. 291.
— , Wash. 436.
Harrisburg, Ont. 364.
— , Ore. 506.
-, Pa. 189.
— , Tex. 594.
Harrison, Me. 304.
— , Idaho 442.
Harrison's Landing, Va,
559. 560.
Harriston, Miss. 587.
Harrisville, N. H. 313.
Hartford, Ct. 237.
— , Me.«299.
— , Wash. 438.
Hartland, Me. 290.
HartselHot Springs, Colo
498.
Hart's Island, N. Y. 247
— Orange Grove, Fla.
624.
Harvard Univ., Mass. 270
— Junction, 111. 384.
, Colo. 474.
Harvey's Lake, Pa. 184.
Harwich. Mass. 279.
Harwood, Tex. 594.
Hastings, Fla. 618.
— , Minn. 384.
— , Neb. 422.
— , N. Y. 86.
Hatfield, Mass. 345.
Hauser Junction, Idaho
443.
Havana, Cuba 662.
— Glen, N. Y. 134.
Haverford, Pa. 188.
Haverhill, Mass. 286.
Haverstraw, N. Y. 88. 83.
Havre, Mont. 435.
— -de-Grace, Md. 202.
Hawk's Nest, W.Va. 567.
Hawleyville, Ct. 239.
Hawthorne, Fla. 629.
Hayden Divide, Colo. 498.
Hayes Mt., N. H. 324.
Haymond, Tex. 591.
Havs, Kan. 470.
Haystack, N. Y. 114.
Hayt's Corners, N.Y. 184.
Hazen June, N. H. 303.
— , Nev. 462.
Healdsburg, Cal. 518.
Heart Lake, N. Y. 114.
Heber, Utah 497.
HelderbergMts., N.Y. 96.
85.
Helena, Miss. 431.
, Ga. 579.
, Mont. 441.
Hell Gate, Colo. 499.
— , N. Y. 71.
Hell's Half Acre, Fla.
625.
Helper, Utah 497.
Hemet, Cal. 485.
Hempstead, N. Y. 80. 30.
Henderson, N. C. 580.
— Lake, N. Y. 115.
Hendersonville,N.C. 601.
Henniker, N. H. 313.
Henning, Tenn. 586. 588.
Herington, Kan. 487.
Herkimer, N. Y. 130.
Hermanas, Mex. 644.
Hermit Lake, N. H. 333.
Hernando, Miss. 588.
Herndon. Cal. 529.
— , la. 417.
Heron, Mont. 443.
Hesperia, Cal. 485.
Hetch-Hetchy, Cal. 547.
Hibbing, Minn. 394.
Hickman, Ky. 430.
Hickman's, Ark. 431.
Hickory, N. C. 599.
— Nut Gap, N. C. 600.
Hicksville, N. Y. 80.
Hidalgo, Mex. 654.
Higginsville, Mo. 424.
High Bridge, Colo. 494.
, Ky. 583.
Highgate Springs,Vt. 315.
Highgrove, Cal. 485.
Highland, Cal. 535.
— , Fla. 628.
— , N.Y. 90.
— Beach, N. J. 177.
, Pa. 185.
— Park, m. 380.
Highlands, N. Y. 84.
-, S. C. 571.
— Station, N. Y. 87.
High Peak, N.Y. 101.
— Point, N. J. 143.
Mt., N. Y. 101.
— Rock, Pa. 209.
INDEX.
701
ffigh Tor, N. Y. 83. 88.
Hillsdale, Cal. 523.
— , Mich. 357.
HUl Top, Colo. 474.
Hingham, Mass. 275.
Hinton, Ky. 582.
— , W.Va. 567.
Hipolito, Mex. 646.
Hixon, Tenn. 583.
Hobart, N. Y. 104.
Hobgood, N. C. 570.
Hobuken, N. J. 73.
noffmann Mt., Cal. 54S
Hogarth's Landing, Fla
62i.
Hoisington, Kan. 427.
Hokendauqua, Pa. 182.
Holbrook, Ariz. 480.
Holdrege, ^eb. 422.
Holliday, Kan. 476.
HoUister, Cal. 524.
Holly Spring?, Miss. 588.
Hollywood, N. J. 178.
Holton, Ind. 586.
Holy Cross Mt., Colo.
474.
Holyoke, Mass. 344.
— Mt., Mass. 344.
Homestead, Fla. 622.
Homewood, Va. 561.
Homosassa, Fla. 628.
Hondo, Mex. 644.
Honesdale, Pa. 90.
Honeyville, Utah 462.
Honnedaga Lake, N. Y
116.
Hood Mt., Ore. 469. 508
Hoodoo Land, Wyo. 459
Hood River, Ore. 469.
Hooker, Okla. 487.
Hooksett, N. H. 813.
Hooniah Sound, Alaska
685.
Hoosac Mts. 335. 334.
— Tunnel, Mass. 335.
Hoosic River 337.
Hoosick Falls, N.Y. 385.
— Junction, N. Y. 385.
Hoosier Pass, Colo. 491.
Hopatcong, N. J. 140.
Hope, Ark. 590.
— , Idaho 443.
— Island, R. I. 252.
HopeweD June, N.Y.239.
Hopi Villages, Ariz. 480.
Hopkins, Minn. 386.
— Peak, N. Y. 113.
Hopland, Cal. 518.
Horace, Kan. 427.
Hor Mt., Vt. 318,
Horn Lake, Miss. 587.
Hornbrook, Cal. 506.
HorneU, N. T. 144.
Hornos, Mex. 645. 646.
Horseshoe, N. Y. 118.
Curve, Colo. 490.
— , Pa. 190.
Hot Springs, Ark. 590.
, Colo. 492.
, Neb. 422.
— , N. C. 601.
-, Va. 566.
— , Wash. 445.
— Sulphur Springs, Colo.
475.
Houghton, Mich. 396.
Houlton, Me. 291.
Housatonic, Mass. 337.
River 336. 337.
Houston, Tex. 594.
Howbert, Colo. 498.
HoweUs, N. Y. 142.
Huamanatla, Mex. 656.
Hudson, N. Y. 88.
, 0. 201.
, Wis. 385.
City, N.J. 73.
— Heights, N. J. 73.
River 82. 31.
Huehuetoca, Mex. 650.
Hugo, Colo. 471.
Huichapan, Mex. 643.
Huletfs Landing,N.Y.124.
Hull, Mass. 274.
Humboldt, Nev. 462.
Humphrey's Peak, Ariz.
Hunter, N. Y. 102.
— Mt., N. Y. 102.
Hunter's Hot Springs,
Mont. 441.
— Island, N. Y. 247.
Hunting burg, Ind. 417.
Huntingdon, Pa. 190.
-, Que. 129.
Huntington, Ind. 232.
— , Mass. 334.
— , N. Y. 80.
, Ore. 468.
, W. Va. 567.
Hunt's Mill, R. I. 245.
HuntsvOle, Ala. 579.
Huron, Minn. 398.
-, Ore. 468.
— Lake 365.
— River 362.
Hurricane Mt., N. H. 323.
, N. Y. 110.
Husted, Colo. 488.
Hutchinson, Kan. 477. —
487.
Hyannis, Mass, 279.
Hyattsville, Md. -210.
Hyde Park, HI. 363.
, Mass. 246.
, N. Y. 85. 88.
IbervUle, Que. 312.
Iceboro, Me. 289.
Icy Strait, Alaska 684.
Idaho (state) 443.
— Springs, Colo. 473.
IdyUwild, Cal. 485.
Ignacio, Cal. 518.
— , Colo. 493.
Iguala, Mex. 655.
Ilion, N. Y. 130.
Illilouette Falls, Cal. 547.
Illinois 357.
Imperial, Cal. 551.
Imp Mt., N. H. 324.
Independence, Mo. 427.
Index, Wash. 436.
Indiana (state) 357. 401.
Harbor, Ind. 357.
Indianapolis, Ind. 401.
Indian Head (Catskills),
N. Y. 102.
(Palisades), N.Y. 83.
-, Va. 210.
HUl Farm, Mass. 284.
Pass, N. Y. 115.
Pond, Me. 300.
— Reservations 435. 442.
443. 444. 446. 479. 483.
etc.
Indian Riv^r, Fla. 619.
— Springs, Ga. 579.
— Territory 476.
Indio, Cal. 550.
Ingleside, Miss. 587.
Inglewood, Cal. 584.
Inspiration Point, Cal. 548.
, N. Y. 100.
, Wyo. 458.
Intervale, K. H. 322.
lola, Fla 625.
lona Island, N. Y. 84. 89.
Iowa (state) 420.
— City, la. 420.
Ipswich, Mass. 283.
Irapuato, Mex. 648.
Irolo, Mex. 656.
Iron Junction, Minn. 894.
— Mt., Mo. 589.
, N. H. 323.
— River, Wis. 395.
Ironton, Mo. 589.
-, 0. 403. 576.
Iroquois Ravine, N.Y. 115.
Irvington, N.Y. 86. 83.
Ishpeming, Mich. 395.
Islamorada, Fla. 623.
Island Pond, Vt. 304.
Isle La Motte, Vt. 312.
Islesboro, Me. 292.
Islesford, Me. 297.
Isles of Shoals,N.H. 285.
Isleta, N.M. 479.
IsUp, N.Y. 81.
702
INDEX.
Itasca Lake, Minn. 428.
Ithaca, Micli. 356.
— , N. Y. 145.
Iturbe, Mex. 658.
luka, Miss. 579.
Ivanpah, Cal. 484.
Ixtacalco, Mex. 854.
Ixtaccihuatl, Mex. 654.
Izucar de Matamoros,
Mex. 657.
Jackson, Mich. 363.
— , Miss. 589.
-, N. H. 323.
-, Pa. 187.
— , Tenn. 588.
— Hole, Wyo. 45S.
Jacksonville, Fla. 614.
-, 111. 424.
Jaffrey, N. H. 309.
Jajalpa, Mex. 644.
Jalapa, Mex. 658.
Jamaica, N. Y. 80. 81. 30
— Plain, Mass. 86.
James Peak, Col. 473.
— Eiver 560
Jamestown,. N. Y' 231.
-, N. D. 439.
— , Pa. 201.
-, R. I. 252.
-, Va. 561.
Janesville, Wis. 385.
Jaral, Mex. 644.
Jarilla Junction, N. Mex,
488.
Jay Peak, Vt. 318.
Jean, Nev. 504.
Jefferson, N.H. 330.
— City, Mo. 427.
— Barracks, Me. 416.
— Highlands, N. H. 303.
, Pa. 184.
— Mt., N.H. 334.
, Ore. 508.
, Pa. 183.
Jeflfersonville, Ind. 569.
Jenkintown, Pa. 158.
Jennings, Mont. 436.
Jensen, Fla. 621.
Jericho Run Canal 564.
Jerome, Ariz. 483.
Jersey City, N.J. 73.
Jesup, Ga. 579. 612.
Jesiis del Monte, Cuba 666.
Jewfish, Fla. 622.
Jimenez, Mex. 646.
Jimulco, Mex. 646.
Jo Mt., N. Y. 114.
.Tocko, Mont. 443.
Johannesburg, Cal. 484.
John Brown's Farm, N.Y.
HI.
Johnson City Tenn. 576.
Johnson's Canyon, Ariz.
483.
Johnsonville, N. Y. 335.
Johnston, Ga. 612.
Johnstone Strait, B.C.
676.
Johnstown, N.Y. 130.
— , Pa. 191.
Joliet, lU. 419. 420.
Jonesboro, 111. 5S8.
— Me. 291.
Jones Point, N.Y. 89.
Jonesport, Me. 291.
Joplin, Ark. 589.
Jordan Pond, Me. 296.
— River, Utah 497.
Joseph, Ore. 468.
Jovellanos, Cuba 667.
Juanacatlan Falls, Mex.
648.
Juan de Fuca Strait, B. C.
674.
Juile, Mex. 657.
Jalesburg, Col. 460.
Junction City, Ky. 533-
, Kan. 470.
Juneau, Alaska 681.
Juniata River 190.
Jupiter Inlet, Fla. 621.
Kaaterskill Clove, N.Y.
99.
— Falls, N.Y. 100.
— Hotel, N.Y. 100.
— Station, N. Y. 103. 100.
Kalama, Wash. 447.
Kalamazoo, Mich. 363.
Kalispell, Mont. 436.
Kanawha Falls, W. Va
567.
Kane, Pa. 187.
Kankakee, HI. 401.
Kansas City, Kan. 424.
— , Mo. 423.
Kasan, Alaska 680.
Katahdin Iron Works Me.
291
Katama, Mass. 277.
— Mt., Me. 291.
Kaysville, Utah 497.
Kearney, Neb. 460.
— , Mo. 425.
Kearsarge Mt. (near N.
Conway) N. H. 322.
— (near Potter Place),
N. H. 314.
— Village, N. H. 322.
Keating, Pa. 185.
Kebo Mt., Me. 295.
Keeler, Nev. 462.
Keene, N. H. 309. 313.
Centre, N. Y. 110.
Valley, N.Y. 111.
Keeseville, N. Y. 108.
Keithsburg, 111. 429.
Kendal Green, Mass. 306.
Kenedy, Tex. 593.
Kennebunk, Me. 286.
— Beach, Me. 287.
Kennebunkport, Me. 287.
Kenner, La. 587.
Kennerville, La. 431.
Kennet, Cal. 505.
Kenosha, Colo. 474.
— , Wis. 381.
Kenova, W. Va. 567.
576.
Kenoza Lake, Mass. 286.
Kensico, N. Y. 74.
Kensington, HI. 363.
Kent, Ct. 336.
Kentucky 567.
— River 569. 582.
Keokuk, la. 429.
Kerhonkson, N. Y. 91.
Kerr Lake, Fla. 625.
Ketchikan, Alaska 680.
Ketchum, Idaho 468.
Keuka Lake, N. Y. 135.
Keweenaw, Mich. 395.
Keyport, N. J. 176.
Keyser, W. Va. 351.
Keystone, Colo. 474.
Keysville, Va. 602.
Key Vaca, Fla. 623.
— West, Fla. 623.
Kidds Point, N. Y. 83.
Kilbourn City, Wis. 384.
Kilbum Mt., Vt. 310.
KiUington Peak, Vt. 310.
Killisnoo, Alaska 681.
Kill van Kull 72.
Kimball Hill, N. H. 318.
Kinderhook, HI. 425.
Kineo, Me. 300. 301.
— , Mt., Me. 301.
Kingfield, Me. 298.
Kingman, Ariz. 483.
King Ranch, Tex. 593.
Kingsburg, Cal. 530.
King's City, Cal. 525.
Kingsland, Ga. 613.
King's Mt., Ky. 583.
, N. C. 571.
Kingston, Mass. 275.
, N. Y. 90.
— , Ont. 153.
— , Pa. 183.
-, R. I. 243.
Point, N. Y. 101.
Kingsville, Ont. 358.
Tex. 694.
Kingville, S. C. 603.
Kinsley, Kan. 477.
KirksviUe, Mo. 425.
Kissimmee, Fla 627.
INDEX.
703
Kit Carson, Colo. 471.
Kittaning Pt., Pa. 190.
Kittatinny Mts., 140. 142.
Kittery, Me. 284.
Klamath Hot Springs, Cal.
505.
— Lakes, Cal. 505.
Klondike, Can. 680.
Knights Key, Fla. 623.
Knobel, Ark. 589.
Knoxville, Tenn. 577.
Kooskia, Wash. 444.
Kootenai Falls, Idaho 436.
Kramer, Cal. 484.
Ktaadn Mt., Me. 291.
Kuttawa, Ky. 586.
Labadie, Mo. 427.
La Barca, Mex. 648.
La Canada Valley, Cal.
587.
Lachine Eapids , Que.
155.
La Cima, Mex. 644. —
655.
Lackawanna River 141.
184.
Lackawaxen, Pa. 143.
La Colorada, Mex. 646.
Laconia, K H. 316.
Lacoochee, Fla. 629.
La Crosse, Va. 580.
, Wis. 384.
La Cruz Mts., Mex. 644.
Lafayette, Ind. 401.
— , La. 596.
— Mt., K.H. 329.
Lagos, Mex. 647.
La Grande, Ore. 46S.
Lagrange, Ky. 583.
— , Mo. 430.
Laguaa, N. M. 479.
— de Tache Ranch, Cal.
484.
La Jara, Colo. 492.
— Jolla Cave, Cal. 539.
— Joya, Mex. 656.
— Junta, Colo. 477.
Lake, Ln.d. 363.
Lake Charles, La. 596.
— City, Colo. 496.
, Fla. 630.
, Minn. 384.
— Clear, N. T. 107.
— Fairfield, N. C. 601.
— Forest, 111. 380.
— Fork Canyon, Colo.
496.
— George, N. Y. 122.
— Helen, Fla. 619.
Lakehurst, N. J. 179.
Lakeland, Fla. 627.
Lake Mahopac, N. Y. 74.
Lake Mohonk, N. Y. 90,
— Placid, N. Y. 106.
Lakeport, IS". H. 316.
Lake Toxaway, N.C. 601,
Lake View, Miss. 587.
, Wash. 446.
Lake Villa, 111. 337.
Lakewood, N. J. 179.
— , K Y. 231.
Lamanda Park, Cal. 486.
Lamar, Colo. 477.
Lamoine, Cal. 505.
Lamont, Miss. 587.
La Moure, N. D. 439.
Lampazos, Mex. 641.
Lamy Junction N. M.
478.
Lanark, Fla. 630.
Lancaster, Cal. 531.
— , N. H. 3U5.
-, Pa. 188.
Land's End, Mass. 283.
Lane's, S. C. 602.
Laneshoro, Mass. 342.
-, Pa. 184.
Lanesville, N. Y. 102.
Langhorne, Pa. 158.
Langtry, Tex. 591.
Lansing, la. 429.
— , Mich. 361.
Lapeer, Mich. 362.
La Porte, Ind. 357.
Laramie, Wyo. 460.
Larchmont, N. Y. 235.
Laredo, Tex. 694.
Nuevo, Mex. 641.
Larimore, N. D. 435.
Larkspur, Colo. 488.
Larrabee's Point, Vt.
125.
La Salle, Colo. 475.
-, ni. 420.
, Neb. 423.
, N.Y. 144.
Las Cruces, N. M. 479.
— Sedas, Mex. 659.
Vegaa, N. M. 477.
• — , Nev. 504.
— Hot Springs, N. M.
477.
Lathrop, Cal. 529.
Laton, Cal. 484.
Latourelle, Ore. 469.
Latrobe, Pa. 191.
Laurel House, N. Y. 100.
— Lake, Mass. 341.
Station, N. Y. 103
Laurelles Ranch, Cal. 525.
Laurette, HI. 399.
La Veta, Colo. 492.
Lawrence, Kan. 470.
, Mass. 286.
, N, Y. 312.
Lawrenceburg, Ind. 402.
569. 586.
Lawrence Junction, Pa.
201.
Lawrenceville, Ga. 581.
— , N. Y. 98.
Lawaon, Mo. 426,
Lawtey, Fla. 628.
Layton, Utah 497.
Leadville, Colo. 498. ^
— Junction, Colo. 495.
Leastalk, Cal. 504.
Leavenworth, Ind. 417.
— , Kan. 470.
— , Mo. 426.
— , Wash. 436.
Leavittsburg, 0. 232.
Lebanon, Ky. 583.
-, N. Y. 342.
-, Pa. 189.
— Springs, N. Y. 342.
Le Claire, la. 429.
Le Conte Glacier, Alas.
-681.
Lee, Mass. 337.
Leechburg, Pa. 198.
Leech Lake, Minn. 438.
Leeds, N. D. 439.
— June, Me. 293.
Leesburg, Fla. 628.
Lehi, Utah 497.
Lehigh River 182.
— Water Gap, Pa. 183.
Lehighton, Pa. 183.
Leicester June, Vt. 310.
Leipsic Junction, 0. 357.
Leitchfield, Ky. 586.
Leith, Nev. 504.
Leland, Miss. 587.
Lemon City, Fla. 622.
Lenoir, N. C. 599.
Lenox, Mass. 340.
— Dale, Mass. 337.
Leon, Mex. 648.
Lerdo, Mex. 646.
Lerma, Rio 644. 648.
Leroy, Wyo. 461.
Lethbridge, Can. 435.
Lewiston, Me. 298.
— , N. Y. 153. 231.
— , Idaho 444.
— June, Me. 303.
Lewistown, Pa. 190.
Lexington, Ky. 582.
Ind. 586.
— ; Mass. 308.
Mo. 423. 427.
Neb. 460.
— ; Va. 565.
— Junction, Mo. 425.
Liberal, Okla. 487.
Liberty, N.Y. 230.
— , Tex. 596.
704
INDEX.
Liberty, Island, N.Y. 71.
— Mt., N. H. 330.
Lick Mts., Va. 576.
Lick Obs., CaL 523.
Lila Lake, N. T. 118.
Lime Lake, N. Y. 185.
Limestone, Me. 291.
Limon, Colo. 423. 471.
Linares, Mex. 646.
Lincoln, Neb. 422.
— , N. H. 317.
— Mt., Colo. 475.
, N. H. 329.
, Vt. 310.
Linda Vista, Cal. 538.
Lineville, la. 425.
Linwood, N. J. 73.
— Pa. 202.
Lisbon, N. H. 318.
Litchfield, Ct. 336.
— , 111. 409.
— , Minn. 398.
LittleChebeagueI.,Me.288
— Falls, Minn. 438.
, N. Y. 130.
— Harbor. N. H. 285.
— Neck Bay, N.Y. 247.
— Rock, Ark. 590.
— Rockies (Mts.), Mont
435.
Littleton, N. H. 318.
Little Zion, Utah 503.
Live Oak, Fla. 630.
Livermore, Cal. 529.
— , Me. 299.
— Falls, Me. 298.
Livingston, Mont. 441.
— N.Y. 72.
Lizard Head Pass, Colo
493.
Llano Estacado, Tex. 638
Lloyd, Fla. 630.
Lobitos, Cal. 521.
Lock Haven, Pa. 185.
Lockport, 111. 400.
— , N. Y. 135.
Logan, Mont. 441.
— Mt., Can. 686.
— , N. Mex. 487.
Logansport, Ind. 350.
Loma Linda, Cal. 536.
— Prieta, Cal. 524,
Lomax, Kan. 427.
Lompoc, Cal. 526.
London, Ont. 364.
Long Beach, Cal. 534.
, Me. 285.
, N.Y. 80.
, Ore. 508.
— Branch, N. J. 178.
— Bridge, Cal. 521.
— Island, Me. 288.
, N.Y. 79.
Long Island City, N.Y. 78.
Sound 247.
— Key, Fla. 623.
— Lake, Me. 304.
, N.Y. 117.
West, N. Y. 118.
Longmeadow, Mass. 239.
Longmires Springs,
Wash. 446.
Longmont, Colo. 473.
Long Pond Mt., N. Y. 110.
Longport, N. J. 181.
Long Sault Rapids 155.
Long's Peak, Colo. 473.
Longview, Tex. 637.
Lonsdale, R. L 245.
Lookout Mt., Tenn. 578.
Loon Lake, N. Y. 106. ^
Lorain, 0. 357.
Lordsburg, N. M. 552.
Loretto, Pa. 191.
Los Alamos, Cal. 526.
Angeles, Cal. 531.
Banos, Cal. 529.
— Gatos, Cal. 520.
Olivos, Cal. 526.
Pinos, Colo. 493.
Reyes, Mex. 648, 658.
Lost VaUey, Cal. 548.
London, Tenn. 577.
Louisiana (state) 575.
, Mo. 430.
Louisville, Ky. 567.
— Landing, N. Y. 155.
Lovejoy, Ga. 611.
Loveland, Colo. 473,
— , O. 405.
Lowe Mt., Cal. 537.
— Observatory, Cal. 537.
Lowell, Mass. 312.
Lower Crossing, Utah
497.
Lowville, N. Y. 131.
Lubec, Me. 302.
Ludlow, Cal. 484.
— , Ky. 582.
— , Nev. 463.
— , Vt. 310.
Lula, Ga. 571.
— , Miss. 587.
Lund, Utah 503.
Lunenburg, Vt. 306.
Luray, Va. 597.
Luzerne, N. Y. 119.
Lyell Mt., Cal. 548.
Lyme, Ct. 242.
Lynchburg, Va. 569.
Lyndehurst, N. Y. 83.
Lyndonville, Vt. 318.
Lynn, Mass. 280.
— Canal, Alaska 682.
— Junction, Utah 503.
Lyon Mt., N. Y. 106.
Lyons, la. 429.
— Colo. 473.
N. Y. 107.
Falls, N. Y. 131.
MacAdam June, N.B. 290.
McBee, S. C. 613.
McCammon, Idaho 462.
McCarty^s, N.M. 479.
Macclenny, Fla, 629.
McCloud, Cal. 505.
Mts., Cal. 505.
McComb, 0. 357.
— City, Miss. 589,
McCook, Neb. 422.
McCoy, Colo. 475.
McDonald Lake, Mont.
436.
, Tex. 594.
McFarland, Kan. 487.
McGee's, Colo. 474.
McGregor, la, 429.
— , Tex, 477,
— Mt., N. Y. 122.
Machen, Ga. 611,
McHenry, N. D. 439.
Machias, Me. 291.
Mclntyre Mt., N. Y. 114.
McKeever, N.Y. 116.
McKenney, Va. 580.
McKenzie Mt., N. Y. 110.
McKinley Mt., Alas. 686.
McLaughlin Mt., Ore, 506.
McPherson, Kan. 487,
Mackinac Island, Mich.
362.
Mackinaw City, Mich. 362,
Macon, Ga. 611.
-, Mo. 426.
Madera, Cal. 529.
Madison, Ga. 607.
— , Me. 300.
— , N. H. 319.
— , Wis. 385.
— Mt., N. H, 333.
Madrid, la. 417.
Madrone, Cal. 524,
Magnolia, Ala. 574.
— Fla. 624.
— , Mass. 283.
Magog, Que, 319.
Mahanoy Junct., Pa 187,
Mahkeenac Lake, Mass.
340.
Mahopac Falls, N. Y. 74.
— Lake, N. Y. 74.
Maine 285.
Malabar, Fla. 620.
Maiden, N. Y. 85.
Malintzi, Mex. 656.
Malone, N.Y. 118.
— June, N. Y. 812.
Malta, Colo. 495.
INDEX.
705
Maltrata, Mex. 656.
Malvern, Ark. 590.
Mammoth Cave, Ky. 584.
— Hot Springs, Wyo. 450.
Manassa, Colo. 492.
Manassas, Va. 569.
Manata, Fla. 622.
Manatee, Fla. 629.
Manchester, Ct. 246.
— , la. 421.
— , N. H. 313.
-, Va. 555. 602.
-, Vt. 129.
— by-the-Sea, Mass. 282.
— Point. Me. 297.
Mancos Canyon, Colo. 493.
Mandan, N. D. 439.
Mandarin, Fla, 624.
Manhattan, Kan. 470.
— , N. Y. 30.
— Beach, N. Y. 79.
Manilla, la. 417.
Manito Mt., N. Y. 84.
Manitou, Colo. 490.
— Iron Springs, Colo. 498.
— Park, Colo. 498.
Manomet Bluffs, Mass.
277.
Manor, N. Y. 80.
Mansfield, Mass. 245.
— , O. 349. 232.
— Mt., Vt. 315.
Manti, Utah 497.
Mantoloking, N. J. 179.
Manuelito, N. Mex. 480,
Manunka Chunk, N. J,
140.
Manzanillo, Mex. 649.
Maple River Junction, la.
m.
Maplewood, N". H. 327.
Maquam, Vt. 318.
Maranacook, Me. 300.
Maravatio, Mex. 643.
Marblehead, Mass. 280.
Marceline, Mo. 423.
Mareia Lake, Pa. 143,
Marcy, Mt., N.Y. 114.
Mare Island, Cal. 517.
Marfa, Tex. 591.
Marfil, Mex. 6i8.
Marianao, Caha 668.
Marianna, Fla. 630.
Maricopa, Ariz. 552.
Mariner's Harbor, N. Y,
72.
Marion, Ind. 350.
-, la. 417.
— , Mass. 278.
— , Me. 291.
— , 0. 232. 409.
-, Va. 576.
— River 117.
Mariposa Grove, Cal. 549.
Mariscala, Mex. 649.
Mark West, Cal. 518.
Mariborough, N. Y. 84.
Marques, Mex. 649.
Marquette, Kan. 427.
— , Mich. 395.
Marshall, Mich. 383.
-, Tex. 637.
— Junction, Wash. 444.
— Pass, Colo. 496.
MarshalFs Creek, Pa. 143.
Marshalltown, la. 425.
Marshfield, Mass. 276..
— , N.H. 332.
-, Vt. 318.
Martha's Vineyard, Mass.
277.
Martinsburg, W. Va. 189.
351.
Marvland 189.
— Heights, W. Va. 351.
Marysvale, Utah 497.
Marysville, Cal. 504.
Maryville, Tenn. 577.
Mas com a Lake, N. H. 314.
Mascotte, Fla. 626.
Mason City, Minn. 387.
, 111. 424.
Massabesec Lake, N. H.
313.
Massachusetts (state) 239.
— Bay 257.
Massapequa, If. Y. 81.
Ma^sapoag Lake, Mass.
245.
Massawepie Lake, N. Y.
118.
Massena Springs, N. Y.
155.
Mast Hope, Pa. 143.
Matamoros, Mex. 645. —
660.
Matanzas, Cuba 666.
— , Fla. 618.
Matawan, N. J. 176.
Matehuala, Mex. 642.
Mathias Point, Va. 210.
Mattapoisett, Mass. 278.
Mattawamkeag, Me. 290.
Matteawan Creek 87.
Mattoon, 111. 409. 583.
Mauch Chunk, Pa. 183.
Max Meadows, Va. 576.
Mayagiiez, Porto Rico 671.
Mayfair, 111. 381.
Mayport, Fla. 615.
Maysville, Ky. 567.
Mayville, IN". Y. 201.
Meacham, Ore. 468.
Meade, Kan. 487.
Meadowdale, N. Y. 96.
Meadowville, Va. 560.
Baedeker's Uniteri States. 4th Edit
Meadville, Pa. 232.
Mears Junction, Colo. 495.
Mechanic Falls, Me. 298.
Mechanicsville, Va. 559.
Mechanicville, KY. 127.
Medford, Mass. 312.
— , Ore. 506.
Media, Pa. 175.
Medical Lake, Wash. 444.
Medora, N. D. 440.
Mseker, Wash. 445.
Melbourne, Fla. 620.
Meldrim, Ga. 610.
Melrose, Ct. 246.
— , Mass. 285.
Memaloose Island, Ore.
469.
Memphis, Tenn. 586.
— Junction, Ky. 584.
Memphremagog Lake, Vt.
318.
Menauhant, Mass. 277.
Mendota, Cal. 529.
— , 111. 421.
— Lake, Wis. 385.
Mendoza, Cuba 668.
Menlo Park, Cal. 522.
, N. J. 156.
Menomonie, Wis. 385.
Mentone, Cal. 535.
Mentor, 0. 353.
Meramec Highlands. Mo.
416.
Merced, Cal. 529. 484. 542.
Mercer's Cave, Cal. 46.0.
Meredith, N.H. 317.
Meriden, Ct. 237.
Meridian, Miss. 580.
Merriam, Minn. 386.
Merrill's, N. Y. 106.
Merrimac, N. H. 286.
— River 284. 286. 312.
Merritfs Island, Fla. 620.
Merritton, Ont. 363.
Mesabi Mts., Minn. 394.
Mesa Encantada, N. M.
479.
Metepec, Mex. 658.
Metlakatla, Br. Col. 680,
Mexico 639.
— , Mo. 424.
— , City of, Mex. 650.
Miami, Fla. 622.
Micanopy June, Fla. 628.
Michigamme, Mich. 395.
Michigan (state) 357.
— City, Ind. 363.
— Lake 366.
Middleboro, Mass. 278.
Middleburgh, N. Y. 96.
Middlebury, Vt. 310.
Middle Mt., N. H. 323.
— Park, Colo. 475.
45
706
INDEX.
Middlesboro, Ky. 577.
Middlesex, Vt. 315.
— Fells, Mass. 285.
Middletown, Ct. 237.
-, N. Y. 142.
-, Pa. 189.
Midville, Ga. 610.
Jlifflin, Pa. 190.
Mike Morris, Me. 300.
Milano, Tex. 477.
Miles City, Mont. 440.
— Pond, Vt. 306.
Milford, N. H. 313.
— , N. Y. 143.
— , Utali 503.
— June, O. 352.
Millbank Sound, B. C. 677.
Millboro, Va. 566.
Millbrse, Cal. 521.
Mill Brook 87.
Millbrook, N. Y. 87.
Millbury, 0. 356.
Millen, Ga. 610.
Miller's Falls, Mass. 335.
243.
Millerstown, Pa. 190.
MiUerton, N. Y. 74. 87.
Millington, Tenn. 588.
Millinocket, Me. 291.
Milltown, Ind. 417.
Mill Valley, Cal. 517.
Millwood, Cal. 530.
— , Colo. 493.
Milo Junction, Me. 300.
Milton, Fla. 630.
— , N. H. 319.
— Hills, Mass. 24. .
— Junction, Pa. 187.
MUwaukee, Wis. 381.
Miiiaca, Mex. 646.
Mineola, N. Y. 80.
— , Tex. 637.
Mineral Pt., Mo. 589.
, Pa. 191.
Mineville, N. Y. 125.
Minidoka, Idaho 467.
Mink Mt., N. Y. 102.
Minneapolis, Minn. 390.
Minnehaha Falls, Minn.
392.
Minnesota 384.
Minnetonka Lake, Minn.
393.
Minnewaska, Lake, N. Y.
91.
Minnewaukan, N. D. 439.
Minoa, N.Y. 132.
Minooka,^Pa. 184.
Minot, N. D. 435.
Minot's Ledge, Mass. 276.
Minsi Mt., Pa. 141.
Minturn, Colo. 495.
-, Neb. 422.
Miramar, Cal. 528.
Mirror Lake, Cal. 547.
, N. Y. 110.
Mississippi (state) 574.
— River 427.*
— City, Miss. 575.
Missoula, Mont. 442.
Missouri (state) 430.
— River 428. 430. 441.
— Valley, la. 419.
Mitchell, Ind. 410.
— ilt., N. C. 600.
Jlitchellville, Tenn. 584.
Mitla, Mex. 659.
Moat Mt., N. H. 323.
Moberly, Mo. 425.
Mobile, Ala. 573.
Mobjak Bay, Va. 564.
Moclips, Wash. 446.
Moctezuma, Mex. 645.
Modena, Utah 503.
Modesto, Cal. 529.
Modjeska, Cal. 538.
Moffatt, Tenn. 588.
Mohawk, N. Y. 139.
— Lake, Mass. 340.
— Valley, N. Y. 130. 96.
Mohegan, Ct. 247.
— Lake (Adirondacks),
N. Y. 116.
(near Peekskill),
N.Y. 87.
Mohonk Lake, N. Y. 90.
Moingona, la. 419.
vMoira, N. Y. 312.
/Mojave, Cal. 531.
Moki Villages, Ariz. 4S0.
Mokoma Lake, Pa. 185.
Moline, 111. 426.
Molino del Rey, Mex. 654.
Momauguin, Ct. 237.
Mona, la. 386.
Monadnock Mt., N. H. 309.
Monarch, Colo. 495.
Monclova, Mex. 644.
Moncure, K C. 581.
Monhegan Island, Me. 292.
Monmouth Beach, N. J,
177.
— Junction, N. J. 156.
Mono Lake, Cal. 548.
Monon, Ind. 403.
MonongahelaCity, Pa. 201
Monroe, Fla. 626.
-, Mich. 356.
— , N. C. 581.
-, N. Y. 142.
— Lake, Fla. 625.
— Mt., N. H. 333.
Monrovia, Cal. 486. 535.
Monsoon June, Me. 301.
Montague, Cal. 505.
Montalvo, Cal. 528.
Montana 440.
Montara,*Cal. 521.
Montauk^ N. Y. 81.
Monteagle, Tenn. 579.
Montecito, Cal. 527.
Monteith, Ga. 608.
Monterey, Cal. 524.
, Ind. 232.
, Mass. 340.
, Springs, Md. 209.
Monterrey, Mex. 641.
Montesano, Mo. 416.
Monte Vista, Colo. 492.
Montgomery, Ala. 573.
-, Va. 576.
Monticello, Fla. 630.
— , Ind. 403.
— , Minn. 398.
— , N.Y. 143.
-, Va. 565.
Montpelier, Idaho 467.
-, O. 229.
-, Vt. 315.
Montreat, K. C, 599.
Montrose, Colo. 496.
la. 429.
Monument Beach, Mass.
277.
— Mt., Mass. 340.
— Park, Colo. 492.
Mooers June., N.Y. 312,
Moon Lake, Miss. 587.
Moor, Nev. 462.
Moorhead, 3Iinn. 439.
MooseheadLake, Me, 301.
Mooselucmaguntic Lake,
Me 299.
MoosilaukeMt., N. H. 317.
Moravia, N. Y. 133.
Morehead, N. C. 570.
Morelia, Mex. 643.
Morenci, N. M. 552.
Morgan City, La. 596.
Morganton, N. C. 599.
Moriah Mt., N. H. 324.
Moriches, N. Y. 81.
Morley, Cal. 505.
— , Colo. 477.
Mor6n, Cuba 667.
Morris, Minn. 438.
Morrisburg, Ont. 155.
Morris Cove, Ct. 237.
— Heights, N. Y. 73.
Morristown, N. J. 140.
-, N. Y. 131.
-, Tenn. 5T7. 601.
Morrisville, Pa. 157.
Mortimer, Colo. 492.
Morton, N. Y. 231.
Mosier, Ore. 469.
Moss Beach, Cal. 521.
Mossbrse Falls, Cal. 505.
Mott, Cal. 505.
INDEX.
70
Mounds, m. 58S.
Moundsville, W. Va. 352.
Mountain Dale, N. Y. 230.
Mountain Ho. Sta., N.Y.98.
— Iron, Minn. 394.
— King Mine, Cal. 542.
— Lake Park, Md. 352.
— Park, Pa. 184.
— View, Cal. 522.
, N. Y. 118.
Mount Airy, Ga. 571.
, Pa. 175.
— Carmel, 111. 417.
— Clemens, Mich. 362.
— Desert, Me. 298.
— Elephantus, Que. 319.
— Green, Me. 295.
— Holly Springs, Pa. 189.
— Hope, Md. 209.
, N. Y. 74.
, R. I. 245.
Bay, E,. I. 252.
— Kisco, K. Y. 74.
— Pleasant, la. 421.
, Mich. 357.
, N. H. 333.
, N. Y. 102.
, Pa. 175.
House, N. H. 326.
— Pulaski, m. 399.
— St.Vincent, N. Y. 83.
— Tom, Mass. 344.
— Union, Pa. 190.
— Vernon, 111. 416.
, N. H. 313.
, N. Y. 235.
, Va. 228.
— Wilson, Md. 209.
Mouse Island, Me. 292.
Moxie Lake, Me. 300.
Mucio Martinez, Mex. 659.
Muir, Cal. 485.
— Glacier, Alaska 684.
Mullan's Pass, Mont. 442.
Mulvane, Kan. 476.
Munhall, Pa. 200.
Munising, Mich. 396.
Munyon's Island, Fla. 621.
Murfreesboro, Tenn. 579.
Murphy, N. C. 601.
Murphy's, Cal. 465.
Murray Isle, N. Y. 154.
Murrysville, Pa. 198.
Muscatine, la. 429. 425.
Music Peak, Colo. 496.
Muskogee, I. T. 424.
Mussel Rock, Cal. 521.
Myrtle Creek, Ore. 506.
Mystic Lakes, Mass. 312,
Nahant, Mass. 280.
Nampa, Idaho 468.
Nanaimo, Vancouver 675
Nancy Mt., N. H. 305.
326.
Nantasket Beach, Mass.
274.
— June, Mass. 276.
Nantucket, Mass. 278.
— Lightship 2.
Napa, CaL 518.
Naples, CaL 526.
-, Me. 304.
Napoleon, 0. 409.
Naravisa, N. Mex. 487.
Narragansett Bay, R. I.
245.
— Fort, R. I. 243.
— Pier, R. I. 243.
Narrows, the, N. Y. 2.
Narrowsburg, N. Y. 143.
Nashua, Mont. 435.
-, N. H. 313.
Nashville, Tenn. 585.
Nassau, Bah. Isl. 622.
Natchez, Miss. 587.
Nathrop, Colo. 495.
Natick, Mass. 241.
National City, Cal. 540.
— Sequoia Park, Cal. 484.
Natural Bridge, Va. 598.
, Ariz. 480.
, Ky. 583.
, Utah 493.
Naucalpan, Mex. 644.
Naugatuck, W.Va. 576.
Nauhcampatepetl, Mex.
658.
Nava, Mex. 644.
Navaj 0 Springs, Ariz. 480.
Navesink Highlands 177.
2.
Navy Yard, D. C. 226. 210.
Nebo Mt., Utah 497.
Nebraska City, Neb. 421.
Neche, N. D. 398.
Needles, CaL 483.
Neelyville, Mo. 589.
Neenah, Wis. 387.
Negaunee, Mich. 395.
Nehasane, N.Y. 118.
Neihart, Mont. 435.
Neola, la. 417.
Nesbitt, Miss. 587.
Nestoria, Mich. 395.
Netcong, N.J. 140.
Nevada (state) 462.
— City, CaL 464.
— Fall, CaL 546.
Nevado de Toluca, Mex.
643.
Neversink Mt., Pa. 186.
New Albany, Ind. 417.
Newark, Cal. 520.
— , Del. 202.
-, N.J. 156.
Newark, 0. 352.
New Ashford, Mass. 342.
— Bedford, Mass. 279.
— Berlin Junction, N. Y.
231
New Bern, N. C. 570.
New Boston, IlL 429.
, N. H. 313.
— Braunfels, Tex. 598.
— Brighton, N. Y. 72.
— Britain, Ct. 239.
— Brunswick (state), 290.
, N. J. 156.
— Buffalo, Mich. 363.
Newburg, W.Va. 352.
Newburgh, N.Y. 9U.
Newbury, Vt. 346.
Newburyport, Mass. 283.
Newcastle, Cal. 464.
-, Colo. 499.
-, Me. 292.
-, N. H. 285.
New Egypt, Pa. 143.
— England 235.
Newfield, N.J. 181.
Newfound Lake, N. H.
314.
Newfoundland, Banks of
2 R
Newhall, Cal. 531.
New Hampshire 284.
— Harmony 417.
— Haven, Ct. 236.
Jiinction, Vt. 310.
Newhouse, Utah 503.
Newington, Ct. 237. 239.
— , Kan. 427.
Newkirk, Okla. 4T6.
New Lenox, Mass. 337.
— London, Ct. 242.
— Madrid, Mo. 430.
— Mexico 493. ■
— Milford, Ct, 336.
Newnan, Ga. 572.
New Orleans, La. 631.
— Paltz, N. Y. 90.
Landing, N. Y. 84.
Newport, Ark. 589.
— , Ky. 408.
— , Me. 290.
— , N. H. 314.
— , Ore. 508.
— , R.L 248.
— , Vt. 318.
— , Wash. 436.
— Bay, Cal. 534.
— Beach, Cal. 538.
— Mt., Me. 295.
— News, Va. 561.
New Richmond,Wis. 387
— River, W.Va. 567.
— Rochelle, N.Y. 235.
— Smyrna, Fla. 619.
45*
708
INDEX.
Newton, Kan. 476.
-, Mass. 241.
— , N. C. 599.
— Creek 78.
— June, N.H. 286.
Newtonville, Mass. 241,
Newtown, N. Y. 30.
New Westminster, B. C.
438.
— Windsor, N. Y. BL
— York (state) 141.
New York, N.Y. 10.
Aldricli Court 34.
All Souls Unit. Ch. 51,
Altman's 47.
American Institute
48. 26.
— Numismatic Soc. 69,
— Surety Co. 36.
Amiable Child, Toml)
of the as.
Amsterdam Avenue 55.
Amusement, Places of
21.
Ans'inia Apartment
House 45.
Appellate Court Ho. 43.
Apthorp, the 45.
Aquarium 33.
Archbisliop's House 53.
Arion 52.
Armouries 51. 52.
Army Huilding 34.
Arrival 10.
Arsenals 54. 56.
Arts of Decoration,
Mu-eum for the 42.
Ascension, Ch. of 46.
Assay Office 35.
Ast r Houses 50.
— Library 42.
— Place 41.
Athletics 23.
Automobile Clabs 23.
Bankers 25.
Bar Association 24. 48.
Barge Office 33.
Barnard College 67.
Baths 25.
Battery, the 33.
Baxter Street 39.
Beaver Building 35.
Bedloe's Island 71. 2.
Eellevue Hospital 54.
Belmont Tunnel 78.
Berkeley Lyceum 48.
Bible Hou.se 42.
Blackwell's Island 71.
Bridge 41.
Bleecker Street 41.
Blessed Sacrament Ch.
of the 45.
New York :
Blind Institution 55.
Boarding Houses 13.
Booksellers 25.
Books of Reference 28.
Botanical Gardens 71.
Boulevard 45.
Bowery 39.
— Mission 39.
Bowling Green 33.
Building 34.
Brearley School 48.
British Con.sulate 2S.
Broad -Exchange Bldg.
35.
— Street 35.
Broadway 34.
— Cimg. Tahernacle4o.
Brokaw House 50.
Bronx, the 30. 70.
— Park 70.
Brooklyn Bridge 40.
BaUway 16.
Bryant Park 54,
Calumet Club 2i. 47.
Calvary Chiirch 51.
Canal Street 41.
Carnegie Music Hall 54.
Carnegie's House 50.
Carriages 18.
Castle Garden 33.
Cathedral (Episc.) 66.
— (R. C.) 48,
Catholic Club 50. 21.
Central Bridge 70.
— Park 55.
Apartment House
50.
West 54.
Century Club 48.
Chelsea Ho. 44.
Chemical National
Bank 41.
Children's Aid Society
39.
Chinatown 39.
Christian Scientists,
Church of the 54.
Churches 26.
Church Mission House
51.
Circle, the 45.
City Hall 38.
Park 37.
— Investing Co. 37.
— Realty Co. 37.
Clearing House Asso-
ciation 36.
Cleopatra's Needle 56.
Clabs 24. 23.
Collections 28.
College of the City of
New York 53.
New York:
Coloured Orphan Asyl-
um 69.
Columbia Bank 48.
— University 66.
Commerce 33.
— , Chamber of 36.
— , High School of 55.
— , National Bank of 36.
Commercial Cable
Building 35.
Concerts 22.
Confectioners 15.
Constable Building 46.
Cooper Institute 42.
Cortlandt Bldg. 37.
Cotton Exchange 35.
Country Clubs 24.
Court House 38. 39.
Cricket 23.
Criminal Courts 41.
Cripples Hospital 53.
Criterion Theatre 21.
Croton Reservoirs 55.
— Aqueduct 70.
Crotona Park 70.
Custom House 33.
Cycling 23.
Dakota Flats 54.
Deaf-Mutes, Associa-
tion for 53.
Deaf and Dumb, In-
stitution for (i9.
De la SaUe Institute 50.
Delmonico's 14.
Democratic Club 24.
Depots 10.
Design, Academy of 55.
Deutscher Verein 50.
De Vinne Press 42.
Divine Paternity, Ch. of
54.
Drexel Building 35.
Eaot River Bridge 40.
16.
Eighth Avenue 54.
Elevated Railroads 15.
Ellis Island 72. 3.
Empire Building 35.
Environs 72.
Equitable Life Ins. Co.
Ethical Culture School
54.
Evening Post Building
37.
Exchange Court Build-
ing 34.
Exhibitions 22.
Express Co. Bldg. 36.
— Service 20.
Eye & Ear Infirmary 53.
Ferries 19.
INDEX.
709
New York:
Fifth Avenue 45.
Presbyterian
Church 49.
Fifty-Seventh Street 49.
Fifty-Ninth Street 50.
Fire Department 27.
First Avenue 53.
— Presb. Church 46.
Five Points 39.
Flat-iron Building 43.
Fordham 71.
Fort Amsterdam 34. 33.
— George 69.
— Washington 69.
Forty-Fourth Street 48.
Forty-Third Street 48.
Forty-Two Broadway
Bldg. 84.
Fourteenth Street 43.
Fourth Avenue 51.
Presbyterian
Church 51.
Fraunces Tavern 34.
Freundschaft Club 52.
24.
Frick's House 49.
Front Street 35.
Fuller Building 43.
Fulton Building 37.
— Market 37.
— Street 37.
German Hospital 52.
Gerry House 50.
Ghetto Market 39.
Golf 24.
Gorham Building 47.
Goulds House 4S.
Governor's Island 2.
Grace Church 42.
— Memorial Home 42.
Grand Boulevard
& Concourse 71.
Grand Central Station
52.
— Opera House 21.
— Street 41.
Grange, the 69.
Grant's Tomb 68.
Greenwich Savings
Bank 54.
Hackney Carriages 18,
Hahnemann Hospital
52.
Hamilton's House 69.
Hanover Bank Build
ing 35.
Harbour 31. 2.
Harlem Heights 6rf.
— Mere 56.
— Ship Canal 70.
Harvard Club 24,
Havemeyer House 50.
New York:
Heavenly Rest, Church
of the 48.
Herald Square 44.
High Bridge 70.
Hi-panie Soc. Museum
69.
History 32.
Holy Trinity Ch. 54.
Home Life Insurance
Co. 41.
Horse Exchange 45.
Horse Races 22.
Hospitals 52. 53. 54. 66
Hotels 12.
Houston Street 41.
Hudson Memorial
Bridge 70.
— Terminal Buildings
37.
— Theatre 21.
Hunt Memorial 51.
Hydriatic Institute 53.
Industry 33.
Isabella Home 69.
Islands (East River) 71.
— (Harbour) 71. 3.
James Fountain 42.
Jeflerson Market Po-
lice Court 54.
Jerome Avenue 71.
Judge Building 46.
Judson Memorial Build-
ings 46.
Juvenile Asylum 69.
— OflFenders, Court for
53.
King'bridge Road 45.
Knickerbocker Club 24,
47.
— Trust Co. 47.
Lafayette Boulevard 69,
— Street 41.
Lawn Tennis 23.
Lenox Avenue 54.
— Library 50.
Lexington Avenue 52.
Liberty Island 71. 2.
Libraries 25. 38. 42. 47
50.
Longacre Square 45.
Lorelei Fountain 71.
Lving-in Hospital 53.
McAdoo Tunnels 37.
Ml Comb's Dam Bridge
70.
Macy's 44.
Madison Avenue 53.
— Square 43.
Garden 53.
Presb. Ch. 44
Mail Office 37.
Mall, the 55.
New York:
Manhattan 30.
— Bridge 40.
— Club 24.
— Life Ins. Co. 35.
— Square 55.
— • Trust Building 35.
Manhattanvilie 68.
Marble Collegiate
Church 47.
Margaret Louisa Home
12.
Masonic Temple 44-
Mechanics'' Institute 48.
Medical Schools 53. 67.
Medicine, Academv of
48.
Mendelssohn Glee Club
45.
Mercantile Library 42.
Messenger Service 20.
Messiah, Ch. of the 52.
Methodist Book Con-
cern 46.
Metropolis Bank 42.
Metropolitan Life Ins.
Co. 44.
— Club 24. 50.
— Museum of Art 58.
— Opera House 45.
Mills Building 35.
— Houses 41.
Morgans House 53.
MorningsideHeishts 66.
— Park 66.
Morrisania 70.
Mosholu Parkway 71.
Motor Omnibuses 18.
Mott Haven 70.
— Street 39.
Mt. Morris Square 51.
— Sinai H'^spital 50.
Mulberry Street 39.
Municipal Research,
Bureau of 44.
Murray Hill 52.
Mnseums 42. 56. 58. 70.
Music, Academy of 43.
— Halls 21.
Mutual Life Ins. Co. 35.
Nassau Street 35.
National City Bank 36.
— Park Bank 37.
Natur.Hist. Museum 56.
Navarro Apartment
House 50.
NewChambersStreet39.
Newsboys Lodging
House 39.
Newspaper Offices 37.
38. 45.
Newspapers 26.
New Street 36.
710
INDEX.
New York:
i!fewYork Academy of
Medicine 48.
Club 47. 24.
Coll. of Pharm.
67.
Herald 44.
Historical So-
ciety 54.
— — Hospital 46.
Life Ins. Off. 41.
Press 39.
Public Librarv
47. 42.
Subway 16.
Times 45.
University 46. 73.
Yacht Club 48.
Nintb Avenue 55.
^Normal College 52.
Old Probabilities 36.
— State Arsenal 56.
Opera House 45.
Oyster Saloons 15.
Park Avenue 51.
— Row 38.
Building 38.
Parks 53. 54. 66. 67. 70.
71.
Paulist Fathers, Ch. of
the 55.
Pelham Bay Park 70.
Pell Street 39.
Penna. R. R. Station 54.
Phipps House 50.
Physicians and Sur-
geons, Coll. of 67
Picture Galleries 22.
Pier Gardens 32.
Police Stations 28.
Population 30.
Post Office 87. 19.
Postal Telegraph Build-
ing 41.
Potter Building 39.
Presbyterian Building
46.
— Hospital 52.
Produce Exchange 34.
Prot. Episc.Theol. Sem.
55.
Public Libraries 41. 47.
nO.
Pulitzer Building 38.
Quarantine Station 2.
Queens, Borough of ;^0.
Racquet Club 23.
Railway Stations 10. 52.
54.
Randall's Island 71.
Rapid Transit 16.
Reading Rooms 25.
Realty Building 36.
New York :
Records. Hall of, or
Register's Office 38.
Renaissance, the 48.
Reservoirs 55. 71.
Restaurants 14.
Rialto 42.
Rice House 68.
Richmond, Borough of
30.
Riverside Drive 67.
River Tunnels 17.
Rockefeller's House 49.
Rockefeller Institute 54.
Roosevelt Hospital 55.
Rowing Clubs 23.
Sacred Heart, Convent
of the 68.
St. Bartholomew's 53.
— Francis Xavier, Ch.
and Coll. of 46.
— George's 53.
— John the Divine's
Cathedral 66.
— Luke's Hospital 66.
— Mark's 53.
— Nicholas Club 24.
, Collegiate Church
of 48.
— Patrick's Cathedral
48.
— Paul Building 37.
— Paul's 37.
— Stephen's 54.
— Thomas's 49.
Sampson Building 35.
Savings Banks 51.
Schwab House 67.
Second Avenue 53.
Seeing New York Com
pany 19.
Sesrun Club 66.
Seventh Avenue 54.
Seward Park 39.
Sheltering Arms 68.
Sherrv's 14.
Shops' 25.
Siebrecht Bldg. 47.
Siegel-Cooper Co. 53.
Singer Building 37.
Sixth Avenue 54.
Sloane's House 49.
Soldiers <fe Sailors
Monument 68.
South Street 35.
Speedway 69.
Sport 22.
Standard Oil Co. Bldg.
34.
State Arsenal 54.
Statues:
Arthur 43.
Columbus 45.
New York :
Statues :
Conkling 43.
Cooper 42.
Dodge 44.
Ericsson 33.
Farragut 43.
Franklin 39.
Garibaldi 46.
Greeley 39. 44. 54.
Hale 38.
Lafayette 42.
Liberty 71.
Lincoln 42.
De Peyster 33.
Seward 43.
Sherman 49.
Sigel 68.
Sims 54.
Verdi 45.
Washington 35, 40.
42. 68.
— Irving 54.
Steamers 11.
Steinway Hall 43.
Stern Brothers' 44. 25.
Stock Exchange 35.
Stores 25.
Streets 27.
Stuyvesant Park 53.
Sub-Treasury 35.
Subway 16.
Synagogues 48. 50. 53.
Tammany Hall 43.
Teachers College 67.
Telegraph Offices 20.
41.
Telephone Offices 20.
Temple Emanu-El 48.
Tenth Avenue 55.
Theatres 20.
Third Avenue 53.
Tiffany Building 48.
— House 53.
Times Square 45.
Tombs, the 41.
Tontine Building 35.
Tourist Agents 20.
Tract Society 39.
Tramways 18.
Transfiguration, Ch.
the 47.
Tribune Building 38.
Trinity Building 36.
— Church 36.
Cemetery 69.
Trust Co. of Am. 35.
Tunnels 37.
Twenty- Third Street
44.
Union Club 24.
— League Club 47.
— Square 42.
INDEX.
711
New York:
Union Theological
Seminary 52.
— Trust Co. 36.
United Charities Bldg.
51.
— States Courts 37.
University Clubs 49. 23.
24. 48.
— Place 46.
— Settlement Soc. 41.
Van Cortlandt Mansion
70.
Park 70.
Vandex'bilt Houses 49.
Waldorf-Astoria Hotel
47.
Wall Street 35.
Wanamaker's 42.
Ward's Island 71.
Washington Bridge 70.
— Building 34.
— Centennial Memorial
Arch 46.
— Heights 69.
— Market 37.
— Square 46.
Water Street 35.
— Supply 70.
Weather Bureau 36.
Welles Bldg. 34.
Westchester Avenue 71.
West Farms 70.
WhitehaU Building 33.
— Street 34.
Williamsbridge 70.
Williamsburg Bridge
40.
Windsor Arcade 48.
World Office 38.
Worth Monument 43.
Yacht Clubs 23. 48.
Yale Club 24. 48.
Yerkes Gallery 22.
Yosemite, the 52.
Young Men's Christ.
Assoc. 44.
— Women's Christ.
Assoc. 46.
Zoological Gardens 71.
56.
NewYork Mills, Minn.439.
Niagara Falls 146.
, N.Y. 144. 358.
, Ont. 144.
Nicholson, Miss. 5S0.
Niles, Cal. 529.
— , Mich. 363.
Nineveh, N.Y. 97.
Niverville, N.Y. 334.
Nome, Alaska 686.
Noon Mark, N.Y. 113.
Nopala, Mex. 643.
Norcross, Me. 291.
Nordhoflf, Cal. 528.
Nordmont, Pa. 185.
Norfolk, Va. 561.
Norlina, N. C. 580.
Normal, 111. 400.
Normandie-bv-the-Sea,
N. J. 177.
Norridgewock, Me. 300.
Norris Hotel, Wyo. 452.
Norristown, Pa. 186.
North Adams, Mass. 342.
Northampton, Mass. 354.
North Andover, Mass. 286.
— Bav, N. Y. 85.
— Bend, 0. 410. 586.
— Bennington, Vt. 129.
— Berwick, Ble. 285.
— Billerica, Mass. 312.
— Carolina 570. 580.
— Conway, N. H. 321.
— Creek, N. Y. 119.
— Cucamonga, Cal. 486.
— Dakota 439. 398. 435.
— Dome, Cal. 544.
— Duxbury, Vt 815.
— East, Md. 202.
Harbor, Me. 296.
Northern Maine June,
Me. 290. 300.
Northfield, Mass. 243.
-, Vt. 315.
North Girard, Pa. 353.
— Hampton, N H. 284.
— Haven, Me. 292.
— Hero, Vt. 126.
— Hook Mt., N.Y. 83.
— Liberty, Ind. 229.
— Lubee, Me. 302.
— Mt., N.Y. 99.
, Va. 566.
, W. Va. 351.
— Ontario, Cal. 486.
— Park, Colo. 460.
— Pepin, Wis. 429.
— Philadelphia, Pa. 157.
— Platte, Neb. 460.
— Pomona, Cal. 4S6.
— River, N.Y. 30. 31.
— Shore, Mass. 282.
— Stratford, N.H. 304.
Northumberland, Pa. 185.
North Vernon, Ind. 586.
Northville, N.Y. 130.
Northwood, la. 387.
North Woodstock , N.H.
317.
— Yakima, Wash. 444.
Norton Mills, Vt. 304.
— Sound, B.C. 686.
Norton's Point, N.Y. 79.
Norwalk, Ct. 235.
-, 0. 356.
Norway, Me. 303.
Norwich, Ct. 247.
-, Vt. 345.
Norwood, N.Y. 132. 312.
-, O. 405.
Noyan, Que. 312.
Nyack, N.Y. 83.
Oak Bluffs, Ma.ss. 277.
Oakdale, Cal. 541.
— N.Y. 81.
— , Tenn. 583.
Oakes. N.D. 439.
Oak Hill, Fla. 619.
Oakland, Cal. 466. 485.
-, Fla. 626.
— , Ind. 417.
— , Me. 300.
— , Md. 352.
-, Miss. 587.
— County, Mich. 361.
Oakley, Kan. 470.
Oaxaca, Mex. 659.
Oberlin, 0. 356.
Obion, Tenn. 586.
Obsidian Cliff, Wyo.
452.
Ocala, Fla. 628.
Ocatlan, Mex. 660.
Occidental, Cal. 517.
Ocean City, N. J. 181.
— Grove, N. J. 176.
— Park, Cal. 534.
— Springs, Miss. 574.
Ocean.<=ide, Cal. 53S.
Ocean Spring:s, Miss. 574.
— View, Cal. 521.
,Va. 562.
Ocklawaha River, Fla.
625.
Oconee, Ga. 611.
Oconomowoc, Wis. 384.
Ocotlan, Mex. 648.
Ocoyoacac, Mex. 644.
October Mt., Mass. 341.
Odenton, Md. 210.
Odessa, Tex. 638.
Odin, 111. 410. 588.
Oelwein, la. 387.
Ogden, Utah 461.
— Monument, Kan. 470.
Ogdensburg, N. Y. 154.
Ogunquit Beach, Me. 285.
Ohio 353.
— River 197.
Oil Citv, Pa. 201.
Ojai Valley, Cal. 528.
Ojo Caliente, N. M. 493.
, Mex. 645.
Oklahoma 476.
Okoboj Lakes, la. 417.
Olar, S. C. 613.
01
712
INDEX.
Old Forge. N.Y. 116.
— Fort, N. C. 599.
— OrcliardBeacli,Me.287.
— Point Co infort,Va. 563.
Oldtown, Md. 209.
— , Me. 290.
Olean, N.Y. 185.
Olustee, Fla. 630.
Olympia, Ky. 567.
— Wash. 446.
Olympic Mts., Wash. 437.
Omaba, Neb. 418.
Ometusco, Mex. 656.
Onchiota, N.Y. 106. 118.
Oneida, ?f.Y. 132.
— Castle, X.Y. 140.
— , Tenn. 583.
— Lake, IT.Y. 231.
Oneonta, N.Y. 97.
— , Ore. 469.
Onondaga Lake, N.Y. 132.
Onota Lake, Mass. 342.
Onset, Mass. 279.
Ontario, Cal. 550.
— Beach, N.Y. 135.
— Lake 363.
Onteora Park, X.Y. 102.
Ontonagon. Mich. 396.
OpeUka, Ala. 572.
Opp, Ala. 573.
Oquirrh Mts., Utah 497.
Oqnossoc, Me. 299.
— Lake, Me. 299.
Orange, Cal. 538.
-, N.J. 140.
— , Va. 565. 569.
— City, Fla. 619.
June. Fla. 626.
— Lake, Fla. 629.
— Mills, Fla. 624.
— Park, Fla. 624.
— Springs, Fla. 625.
Oregon (state) 506.
— , 111. 386.
— Citv, Ore. 506.
Oriental, Mex. 658.
Oriskany, X.Y. 131.
Orizaba, Mex. 657.
— Mt., Mex. 656.
Orlando, Fla. 627.
Orleans, Mass. 279.
Ormond, Fla. 618.
Orono, Me. 290.
Oroville, Cal. 465.
Ortiz, Mex. 646.
Osage City, Kan. 427.
Osakis, Minn. 399.
Oscawana, Lake, N.Y. 87.
Osceola, la. 421.
Oscura, N. Mex. 487.
Oseola, Lake, N.Y. 87.
Osgood, Ind. 586.
Oshkosh, Wis. 387.
Ossawattomie, Kan. 427.
Ossining, N.Y. 87.
Ossipee Lake, N. H. 319.
Osterville, Mass. 279.
Oswego, N.Y. 231.
Osyka, Miss. 589.
Otis, Ind. 357.
-, Wash. 443.
— Junction, N.Y. 98.
Otisville, N.Y. 142.
Otsego Lake, N.Y. 96.
, Mt., N.Y. 97.
Ottawa, m. 420.
, Kan. 427.
Eiver 155.
Otter Lake, N.Y. 116.
Peaks, Va. 575.
Ottumwa, la. 421.
Otumba, Mex. 656.
Ouray, Colo. 494.
Mt., Colo. 495.
Overlook Mt. , KY. 101.
Overton, Ariz. 483.
Owasco Lake, N.Y. 133.
Owego, N.Y. 141.
Owl's Head, N.Y. 118.
Mt., N.Y. 117.
, N. H. 330.
, Que. 318.
Owosso, Mich. 358.
Oxford, Neb. 422.
— .Junction, la. 417.
Oxnard, CaL 529.
Oyster Bay, N.Y. 80.
Ozark Mts., Ark. 589.
Pablo Beach, Fla. 615.
Pacheco, Mex. 646.
Pachuca, Mex. 655.
Pacific Beach, CaL 539.
— Congress Springs, CaL
523.
— Grove, Cal. 524.
— Junction, Mont. 435.
, la. 421.
Pacific Junction, La. 589.
— Ocean 521.
Packerton, Pa. 183.
Paducah, Ky. 5S6.
Pagosa Springs, N.M. 493.
Paila, :Mex. 645.
Painesville, 0. 353.
Painted Cave, Tex. 591.
Paint Eock, N.C. 601.
Paisano, Tex. 591.
Pajaro, Cal. 524.
Palatine Bridge, N.Y. 130.
Palatka, Fla. 624.
Palenville, N.Y. 99.
Palisade, Nev. 462.
Palisades, N.J. 83.
Palm Beach, Fla. 621.
Palmer, Mass. 240.
Palmer, Wash. 445.
Lake, Colo. 488.
Park, Colo. 490.
Palmetto, CaL 521.
— , Fla. 629.
Palmilla, N. M. 492.
Palm Springs, CaL 550.
— , Fla. 626.
— Valley, CaL 550.
Palmyra, Mo. 426.
2^ Y. 133
Palo Alto, Cal. 522.
Palomares, Mex. 657.
Pana, lU. 409.
Panasoffkee, Fla. 629.
Pando, Colo. 495.
Panther Mt., N.Y. 102.
Panzacola, Mex. 656.
Paoli, Pa. 188.
Paonia, Colo. 496.
Paradise, Mont. 443.
— Bav, N. Y. 123.
— Park, Wash. 446.
Paradox Lake, N. Y. 119.
Paraiso Springs, CaL 525.
Pareddn, Mex. 646.
Paris, 111. 409.
-, Ind. 586.
— , Ky. 582.
— Hill, Me. 303.
Parker, N.H. 313.
Parkersburg, W.Va. 404.
Parksville, N.Y. 230.
Parlin, Colo. 475. 496.
Parma, Idaho 468.
— , Mich. 363.
Parmachenee Lake, Me.
299.
Parra'l, Mex. 646.
Parras, Mex. 646.
Pasadena, Cal. 536.
— Lake, Fla. 629.
Pasco, Wash. 444.
Paso, El, Tex. 591.
— del Macho, 3Iex. 657.
Paso Real, Cuba 668.
— Robles Cal. 525.
Passaic, N. J. 140.
Passamaquoddy Bay 302.
Pass Christian, Miss. 575.
PassumpsicFaIls,Vt. 318.
Patch ogue, N.Y. 81.
Paterson, N.J. 140.
Patten, Me. 291.
Pattenburg, N.J. 144.
Patterson Glacier, Alaska
681.
Patterson's Creek, W.Va.
351.
Patzcuaro, Mex. 643.
Paul Smith's, N, Y. 106.
118.
Paul's Valley, I. T. 477.
INDEX.
713
Pavon, Mex. 658.
Pawcatuck River 243.
Pawling, N.Y. 74.
Pawtucket, R.I. 245.
Pawtuxet, R.I. 86.
Paxton, m. 588.
Payne, 0. 357.
Peabody, Kan. 476.
— , Mass. 2S2.
- Glen, N.H. 324.
Peach Springs, Ariz. 483
Peaked Mt.. N.H. 323.
Peak Island, Me. 2s8.
Peconic Bay, N. Y. 80.
Pecos City, Tex. 638.
Pedrito, Mex. 647.
Peebles, 0. 576.
Pee Dee, S. C. 602.
PeekskiU, N. Y. 87.
Pegram, Idaho 467.
Pemaquid, Me. 292.
Pembina, N. D. 399.
Pembroke. Me. 291.
— , N. C. 602.
— , Va. 576.
Pemetic Mt., Me. 295.
Pemigewasset Mt., N. H.
330.
Penacobk, N. H. 314.
Pend d'Oreille Lake,
Idaho 443.
Pendleton, Ore. 468.
Penitencia Canyon, Cal
522
Pen-Mar, Md. 209.
Penn's Mt., Pa. 186.
Pennsylvania 143.
Penn Yan, N. Y. 135.
Penobscot River 290.
Pensacola, Fla. 630.
Peoria, HL 4ii0.
Pepin Lake, Wis. 384. 428.
Pequea VaUey. Pa. 188
Pequonnock River 235.
Pequop, Nev. 462.
Pequot House, Ct. 242.
Percy Peaks, Me. 304.
Perez, Mex. 657.
Peril Sound, Alaska 685
Perma, Mont. 443.
Perote, Mex. 658.
Perrine, Fla. 622.
Perris, CaL 485.
Perry, Me. 291.
— , Oklahoma 476.
— , S. C. 608.
— Park, Colo. 483.
— Peak, Mass. 341.
Perryville, Md. 202.
Perth Amboy, N. J. 176
Peru, Ind. 41U.
— , Me. 299.
Pescadero, CaL 521.
Petaluma, CaL 518.
Peterboro, N. H. 309.
Petersburg Pa. 190.
— , Va. 564.
Peterson, Utah 461.
Petrified Forest, Ariz. 480.
-, Cal. 518.
Peyotes, Mex. 644.
Philadelphia, N. Y. 131.
Philadelphia, Pa. 158.
Advocate, Ch.ofthel69.
Apprentices' Library
168.
Arch Street 170.
Art Club 170.
— , Exhibitions of 160.
Baldwin Locomotive
Works 168.
Bartram's Garden 173
Betz Building 162.
Blockley Almshouses
172.
Bourse 164.
Broad Street Station
162.
Builders' Exchange
163.
Carpenters' Hall 164.
Cathedral 167.
Chestnut Hill 174.
— Street 162.
Christ Church 170.
City Hall 161.
Cooper's Shop 171.
Cramp's Ship Building
Yards 171.
Custom House 164.
Drexel Building 164.
— Institute 172.
Eastern Penitentiary
168.
Evangelists, Church of
the 171.
Fairmount Avenue 168
— Park 173.
Fine Arts, Academy of
166.
Franklin Institute 163
— National Bank 162.
Franklin's Statues 163
— Tomb 171.
Free Library 162.
Germantown 175.
Gimbel Brothers' Store
170.
Girard Avenue 169
— Bank 164.
— Bridge 173.
— College 169.
— Park 173.
Historical Society 165,
Horticultural Halls 170,
174.
PhUadelphia:
Hospitals 165. 168. 169.
17^.
Independence Hall 163.
Industrial Art, Museum
of 174.
, School of 170.
Insane Asylum 173.
Jefferson Med. College
165.
Land Title Building
166.
Laurel Hill Cem. 174.
League Island 170.
Lincoln Park 175.
Logan Square 167.
Market Street 170.
Masonic Temple 162.
Memorial Hall 174.
Mercantile Club 169.
— Library 162.
Merchants' Exchange
164.
Mint 168.
Music, Academy of 170.
Natural Sciences, Acad-
emy of 167.
Naval Asylum 173.
Navy Yard 170.
North American Build-
ing 169.
North Broad Street 166.
Odd Fellows' Temple
166.
Penn House 174. 175.
164.
— Mutual Life Build-
ing 162.
— National Bank 170.
— Treaty Park 171.
Philadelphia Library
165.
— Museums 172.
Philosophical Society
164.
Phvsicians, College of
165.
Post Office 160. 163.
Prot. Episc. Church,
Academy of 165.
Public Buildings 161.
Railway Stations 158.
162. 170.
Ridgway Library 170.
Rittenhouse Sq. 165.
St. James's 174.
St. Joseph's 164.
St. Mark's 165.
St. Mary's 164.
St. Peter's 164.
SS Peter and Paul 167.
SchuylkiU Arsenal 173.
— FaUs 174.
714
INDEX.
Philadelphia:
Science and Art, Mu-
seum of 172.
Shackamaxon 171.
South Broad Street 169.
South Memorial Church
169.
Spring Garden Institute
168.
Street 168.
State House 163.
Stenton Park 175.
Stock Exchange 164.
Streets 16i.
Swedes' Church 171.
Synagogue 168.
Temple University 169
Theatres 159.
Union League Club 170,
University 171.
Walnut Street 164.
Wanamaker's 162.
Washington Memorial
173.
— Park 175.
— Square 164.
West Philadelphia 171
Witherspoon Building
165.
Widener Mansion 168
Willow Grove 175.
Wissahickon Drive
174.
Zoological Garden 175
Philippsburg, N.J. 144.
Phillips, Me. 298.
— Beach, Mass. 280.
Phillipsburg, Kan. 423.
Phoenicia, N.Y. 102.
Phoenix, Ariz. 552.
Phoenixville, Pa. 186.
Piasa BluflE"s, Mo. 416.
Pickett's, Va. 560.
Picolata, Fla. 624.
PicturedRocks, Mich. 396.
Picture Rocks, Pa. 185.
Piedmont, Md. 351.
Piedras Negras, Mex. 644.
Piermont, N.T. 83.
Pigeon Cove, Mass. 283.
Pike County, Pa. 143.
Pike's Peak, Colo. 491.
Piketon, 0. 576.
Pilot Knob, Mo. 589.
— Peak, Nev. 462.
— Rock, Ore. 506.
Pinar del Rio, Cuba 668.
Pine Blufifs, Wyo. 460.
— City, Minn. 393.
— Grove, Colo. 474.
— Hill, N.Y. 103.
Pinehurst, N. C. 581.
Pine Knot, Ey. 583.
Pineland, Ga. 608.
Pine Mt., ^\ H. 324.
— Orchard Mt., N.Y. 99.
— VaUey Range,Utah 503,
Pines, Cuba 666.
Pioche, Nev. 504.
Piqua, 0. 350.
Piru, Cal. 528.
Piscataqua River 284.
Pisgah Mt., N. C. 600.
, Pa. 183.
, Vt. 318.
Pitch Off Mt., N. Y. 110.
Pitkin, Colo. 475.
Pittsburg, Pa. 197.
PittsfieJd, Me. 290.
— , Mass. 341.
Pittsford, Vt 310.
Pittston, Pa. 184.
Placentia Islands, Me. 292.
Plaeerville, Colo. 493.
Placid, Lake, N. Y. 110.
Plainfield, Ct. 247.
— , N. J. 158.
Plains, Mont. 443.
Plainsboro, N.J. 156.
PlainviUe, Ct. 239.
Plantation, Fla. 623.
Plant City, Fla. 627.
Plaquemine, La. 637.
Platte Canyon, Colo. 474.
Plattekill, N.Y. 85.
Clove, N.Y. 102.
Platte River, Colo. 474.
Plattsburg, N. Y. 128.
Playa del Rey, Cal. 434.
Pleasant Hill, 111. 424.
, Mo. 427.
, N. C. 602.
Lake, Mass. 835.
Mt., Me. 304.
Pleasant Mt , N. H. 333.
VaUey, N. Y. 82. 110.
Pleasantville, N.J. 180.
Pleasure Bay, N. J. 177.
Plum Island, Mass. 284.
N.Y. 247.
Plymouth, Ind. 349.
— , Mass. 276.
— , Mich. 361.
, N. C. 602.
, N. H. 317.
Plympton, Mass. 275.
Pocahontas, W. Va. 576.
Pocantico ttrook 87.
— HiUs, N.Y. 74.
Pocasset, Mass. 277.
Pocatello, Idaho 467.
Pocock, Ariz. 483.
Pocomtuck Mt., Mass. 335.
Pocono Mt., Pa. 141.
Point Chautauqua N.Y.
231.
Point Clear, Ala. 574.
— Concepcion, CaL 526.
— Judith, Ct. 248.
— Lookout, Md. 210.
— of Pines, Mass. 280.
— Pleasant, N. J. 177.
— Reyes, Cal. 517.
— of Rocks, Md. 350.
, Wyo. 461.
— Sublime, Colo. 491.
Pokegama, Cal. 505.
Poland, Me. 298.
— Springs, Me. 298.
Polopers Island, N.Y. 84.
Pomona. Cal. 549.
Pompey 8 Pillar , Mont.
440.
Ponca City, Oklah. 476.
Ponce, Porto Rico 671.
Poncha, Colo. 495.
Ponemah, N.H. 313.
— Springs, N. H. 313.
Pontchartrain June, La.
575.
— Lake, La. 636.
Pontiac, Mich. 361.
Pontoosuc Lake, Mass.
342.
Popham Beach, Me. 292.
Poplar, Mont. 435.
Bluff, Mo. 589.
HiU, Ky. 532.
Popocatepetl, Mex. 654.
Popotla, Mex. 654.
Porcupine Island, Me. 294.
Portage, N. Y. 144.
— City, Wis. 384.
— Falls, N. Y. 144.
— Lake, Mich. 396.
Port Allegany, Pa. 185.
Allen, La. 637.
Angeles, Wash. 438.
Chester, Alaska 660.
-, N. Y. 235.
Cliaton, Pa. 187.
Costa, CaL 466.
Deposit, Md. 202.
Porter Mt., N.Y. 114.
Port Gibson, Miss. 587.
— Harford, Cal. 526.
Henry, N. Y. 125.
Huron, Mich. 364.
Jefferson, N. Y. 80.
Jervis, N.Y. 143.
— Kent, N. Y. 126.
Portland, Me. 287.
— , Ore. 506.
— Inlet, B. C. 678.
Port Moody, B. C. 438.
Orange, Fla. 619.
Porto Rico 669.
Port Richmond, Cal. 530.
, N. Y. 72.
INDEX.
715
Port Royal, S. C. 608.
— Simpson, B. C. 677.
Portsmouth, 2s^. H. 284.
-, 0. 576.
Yg^ 5g2.
Po'rt Stanley Tampa, Fla,
628.
— Townsend, Wash.
674.
Potomac River 212.
Falls 228.
Potosi, Mo. 589.
Potter Mt., Mass. 342.
— Place, N. H. 314.
Pottstown, Pa. 186.
Pottsville, Pa. 187.
Poughkeepsie , N. Y. 87.
Pozos, Mex. 642.
Prairie du Chien, Wis.
386.
Pratt, Kan. 487.
Prattsville, N. Y. 104.
Pregnall's, S. C. 606.
Prescott, Ariz. 483.
-, Ont. 154.
— , Wis. 428.
Presque Isle, Va. 560.
Price, Utah 497.
Prickly Pear Canyon,
Mont. 435.
Junction, Mont.
441. .
Prince of Wales Island.
B. C. 680.
Princess Bay, N.Y. 72.
— Royal Island, B. C.
677.
Princeton, Ind. 417.
-, Ky, 586.
-, Mass. 309.
— , Me. 291.
-, N. J. 156.
— Mt., Colo. 474.
Prince William Sound,
Alaska 6S6.
Proctor, Fla. 628.
-, Vt. 310.
Profile House, N. H. 328.
— Mt., N.H. 329.
Prospect Hill, N.Y. 88.
— Mt., Ct. 336.
, Mass. 340.
(near Lancaster),
N. H. 305.
— — (near Plymouth),
N. H. 317.
, N, Y. 123.
Prosser, Wash. 444.
Prout's Neck, Me. 287.
Providence, R. I. 243.
— Forge, Va. 562.
Provincetown, Mass. 279.
Provo, Utah 497.
Prudence Island, R. I.
252
Puebia, Mex. 658.
Pueblo, Colo. 492.
— de Taos, KM. 493.
Puente de Ixtla, Mex.
655.
Puerto Mexico, Mex. 657.
Puget Sound, Wash. 674.
Pulaski, Va. 576.
PuUman, 111. 380.
Punta Gorda, Fla. 627.
Purcell, Oklahoma 476.
Put-in-Bay Islands, 0.
365.
Putnam, Ct. 246.
— Junction, N.Y. 74.
Puyallup, Wash. 445.
Pyramid Harbor, Alaska
goo
— Park, N.D. 440.
Cluantico, Va. 454.
Quebec, Que. 304.
— Junction, N. H. 305.
Queechy Gulf, Vt. 314.
Queen Charlotte's Sound
B. C. 676.
Queens, N. Y. 80.
Queenston, Ont. 153.
Queretaro, Mex. 649.
Quincy, Fla. 630.
-, 111. 426.
— , Mass. 253.
Quinniraont, W. Va. 567.
Quinsigamond Lake,
Mass. 241.
Quiotepec, Mex. 659.
Quisset, Mass. 277.
Quoddy Head Light, Me.
302.
Racine, Wis. 3S1.
Rahway, N. J. 156.
Railroad Pass, Ariz. 552.
Rainbow Lake, N. Y.
118.
Rainier Mt., Wash. 446.
Rainy Lake, Minn. 394.
Raleigh, N. C. 580.
— , Tenn. 587.
Ralph's, N. Y. lOG.
Ramapo, N.Y. 142.
Randall's Island, N. Y. 71,
Randallsville, 1?^. Y. 231.
Randolph. N. H. 325.
— , Va. 602.
— , Vt. 314.
Randsburg, Cal. 484.
Rangeley, Me. 298.
— Lakes, Me. 299.
Ranney, lU. 381.
Rantoul, 111. 588.
Rapidan, Va. 569.
Raquette Lake, N.Y. 116.
— River 107. 117.
Raritan River 156.
Rascon, Mex. 647.
Rathdrum, Idaho 443.
Raton, N.M. 477.
— Mts., N.M. 477.
Rattlesnake Island, Cal.
535.
Ravena, N.Y. 91.
Ravenna, 0. 232.
Ravenscroft, Tenn. 579.
Ptawlins, Wyo. 461.
Ray Brook, N. Y. 106.
Raymond, Cal. 529.
— , Me. 304.
Reading, Pa. 186.
Read's Landing, Minn,
429.
Readville, Mass. 245.
Real del Monte Mex. 655.
Reata, Mex. 642.
Red Bank, N. J. 176.
— Bluflf, Cal. 504.
— Church, La. 431.
— Cliflf, Colo. 495.
Redding, Cal. 504.
— , Ct. 336.
Red HiU, N. H. 317.
Redlands, Cal. 535.
Red Mountain, Colo. 494.
— Mts., Wyo. 457. -^
— Oak, la. 421.
Redondo, Cal. 534.
Red River, La. 431.
Landing, La. 431.
Valley, Minn. 399.
— Springs, N.C. 602.
— Sulphur Springs, W.
Va. ^67.
— Wing, Minn. 384.
Redwood, Cal. 521.
— , Miss. 587.
Relay, Md. 210.
Remington, Va. 569.
— Park, Fla. 624.
Remsen, N.Y. 131.
Reno, Nev. 463.
Renovo, Pa. 185.
Rensselaer, N. Y. 86. 88.
Resolution Mt., N. H. 305.
326.
Revere Beach, Mass. 280.
Revillagigedo, Alaska
680.
Rhinebeck, N. Y. 88.
Rhinecliff, N. Y. 88.
— Landing, N. Y. 85.
Rhode Island 252.
(state) 243.
Rho d es-on-Pawtuxet,
R. I. 245.
716
INDEX.
Ehyolite, Nev., 463.
EicMeld Spring8,N.Y.131.
Eichford, Vt. bl5.
Richmond, Ind. 403-
— Mass. 341.
— , Que. 304.
— , Va. 550.
— Beach, N. Y. 72.
Richmondville, N. Y. 96.
Rico, Colo. 493.
Ridgefield, Ct. 336.
Ridgeway, N. C. 580.
Ridgway, Colo. 494.
Rifle, Colo. 499.
Riker's Island, N. Y. 247.
Rincon, Cal. 520.
— , Mex. 642.
— , N.M. 479.
— Antonio, Mex. 657.
Rindge, N. H. 309.
Rioville, Ariz. 483.
Ripley Falls, N. H. 326.
Rivera, Cal. 537.
Rivergate, N. Y. 131.
Riverhead, N.Y. 80.
River Junction, Fla. 630.
Riverside, Cal. 486.
— , Mass. 275.
-, Mo. 589.
-, N.Y. 119.
Riverton, Va. 597.
Roan Mt., Tenn. 576.
Roanoke, Va. 575.
Robbings Reef, N.Y. 3.
Robinson, Colo. 474.
Robstown, Tex. 594.
Rochelle, Fla. 628.
Rochester, Minn. 384.
-, N. K. 319.
— , N. Y. 135.
— June, N. Y. 185.
— , Pa. 349.
Rockaway, Cal. 521.
— Beach, N.Y. 80.
Rockbridge Alum
Springs, Va. 566.
Rockford, lU. 386.
Rock Hill, lU. 420.
— — Junction, O. 352.
Rockland, Me. 292.
-, N.Y. 230.
— Lake, N.Y. 88.
Rockledge, Fla. 620.
Rockport, Ky^ 586.
— , Mass. 283.
Rocksport, Tex. 593.
Rock River, Wyo. 461.
Rockville, Ot. 239.
-, Pa. 189.
Rockwood, Colo. 494.
Rocky Ford, Ga. 610.
— Hill, N.J. 157.
— Mount, N.C. 602.
Rocky Mts. 442. 456. 460.
471.
Rodney, Miss. 431.
Rogers, Ga. 610.
-, N.M. 552.
Rogers Slide, N.Y. 124.
Roland Lake, Md. 208.
Rolling Fork, Miss. 587.
Rome, Ga. 579.
, N.Y. 132.
Romley, Colo. 474.
Ronceverte, W. Va. 567.
Rondaxe, N.Y. 116.
Rondout, m. 381.
— , N.Y. 90.
— Creek 90.
Ronkonkoma, N.Y. 80.
Roodhouse, 111. 424.
Rosatiiond, Cal. 531.
Rosario, Mex. 646.
Roscoe, N. Y. 230.
Rosebud, Mont. 440.
Roseburg, Ore. 506.
Rosenberg, Tex. 477. 594.
Roseville, Cal. 464.
Rosita, Mex. 644.
Roswell, N.M. 638.
Rdthwell, Ky. 567.
Rotterdam, N.Y. 139.
Round Island, N.Y. 154.
— Lake, N.Y. 108.
— Top, N. Y. 100. 85.
(station), N. Y. 127.
Ronse's Point, N.Y. 128.
Rowe, N.M. 478.
Rowena, Ore. 469.
Rowlesburg, W.Va. 352.
Roxbury, Mass. 246.
-, N.Y. 104.
-, Va. 562.
-, Vt. 315.
Roy, Utah 497.
Royal Gorge, Colo. 495.
Rubio Canyon, Cal. 537.
Rugby, N.D. 435.
— , Tenn. 583.
— Junction, Wis. 387.
Rumford FaUs, Me. 299.
— June, Me. 297.
Rural Retreat, Va. 576.
Rushville, Ind. 403.
Russell, Ky. 403.
Russia, N. Mex. 488.
Rutherford, N.J. 142.
Rutherfordton. l^.C. 581.
Rutland, Vt. 310.
Rye, N.Y. 235.
— Beach, N. H. 284.
Sabalo, Cuba 668.
Sabattis Mt., N. Y. 117.
Sabbath Day Point, N.Y.
124.
Sabinas, Mex. 644.
Sabine Pass, Tex. 59b.
Sabula, la. 417.
Saekett's Harbor, N.Y.
181.
Saco, Me. 287.
Sacondaga River 119.
Sacramento, CaL 464.
Saddleback Mt., Me. 298.
Saegertovrn, Pa. 232.
Sagamore Lake, N.Y. 116.
Sag Harbor, N.Y. 81.
Saginaw City, Mich. 362.
Saguache or SawatchMts.,
Colo. 498.
Sailors"" Snug Harbor,
N.Y. 72.
St. Albans, Vt. 315.
Bay, Vt. 315.
— Andrews, Me. 290.
— Augustine, Fla. 615.
— Catherine, Fla. 629.
— Catherine's, Ont. 363.
— Clair Lake, Mich. 365.
— Springs, Mich. 358.
— Cloud, Fla. 627.
, Minn. 398.
— Croix Junction, Me.
291.
' River 290.
Lake, Wis. 385.
— EUas Mt., Alaska 686.
— Elmo, Colo. 474.
— Francis Lake 155.
— George, N.Y. 72.
, Utah 503.
— Helena, Cal. 518.
Mt., CaL 518.
— Helena Mt. , Ore. 508.
— Hubert's Inn , N. Y.
HI.
Ignace, Mich. 362.
James, Md. 596.
John, N.B. 290.
— River, Can. 291.
John's River, Fla. 623.
Johnsbury, Vt. 318.
Joseph, La. 481.
— , Mo. 425.
Lawrence River 153.
Park, N. Y. 154.
— Louis, Mo. 410.
Lake 155.
— Lucie, Fla. 620.
— Mary's, Pa. 187.
City, Md. 210.
Ship Canal 397.
— Michael's, Alaska 686.
— Paul, Minn. 38S.
— Peter's, Colo. 491.
— Petersburg, Fla. 627.
— Regis, Que. 155.
Lakes, N. Y. 107.
INDEX.
717
St. Simon's I., Ga. 579.
— Thomas, Ariz. 483.
, Ont. 358.
Ste. Anne, N.Y. 155.
— Genevieve, Mo. 430.
Salada, Cal. 521.
Salamanca, Mex. 649.
— , N.Y. 231.
Salazar, Mex. 644.
Salem, Mass. 281.
— , Ore. 506.
— , Va. 576.
Salida, Colo. 495.
Salina, Kan. 427.
— . Utah 497.
—'Cruz, Mex. 667.
Salinas, Cal. 525.
— , Mex. 646.
Salisbury, Ct. 336.
— , Mass. 284.
— , N.C. 570.
— Beach, Mass. 2S4.
Salmon Falls, N. H. 286
— River 118.
Saltair, Utah 503.
Saltillo, Mex. 642.
Salt Lake, Utah 502.
City, Utah 499.
— Sulphur Springs,
W.Va. 567.
Salton, Cal. 550.
Saluda Gap, N. C. 601.
Salvatierra, Mex. 643.
Samalayuca, Mex. 645.
San Andres, Mex. 656.
— Angel, Mex. 654.
— Anselmo, Cal. 517.
— Antonio, Mex. 646.659
, N.M. 479.
, Tex. 591.
Mission, Cal. 525.
Mt., Cal. 486.
— Bernardino, Cal. 485.
Mt8. 550.
Sanhorn, N.D. 439.
Sanbornville, N.H. 319.
San Bruno, Cal. 521.
Mt., Cal. 516.
— Cristobal, Cuba, 668.
Lake, Colo. 496.
Sanderson, Tex. 591.
San Diego, Cal. 538.
Sand Key, Fla. 623,
— Point, Idaho 436.
Sandusky, O. 356.
Sandwich, Mass. 279.
Sandy Hook, Ct. 2. 177,
— Point, Va. 561.
San Felipe, N.M. 478.
— Fernando Mts., Cal.
531.
Sanford, Fla. 626.
— , N.C. 581.
Sanford Lake, N. Y. 115
San Francisco, Cal. 509
Bay, Cal. 517.
Mts., Ariz. 480.
— Gabriel, Cal. 549.
— German, Porto Rico
671.
Sanger Junction, Cal. 530.
San Gerdnimo, Mex. 657,
— Gorgonio Pass,Cal. 550.
Sangre de Cristo Mts.,
Colo. 496.
San Gregorio, Cal. 522.
Sanitaria Springs, N.Y. 97,
San Jacinto, Cal. 485.
Mts., CaL 550.
— Joaquin "Valley, Cal.
529.
— Jose, Cal. 523.
— Juan, Cal. 538.
, Mex. 646.
, Porto Rico 669.
de las Huertas,
Mex. 643.
del Rio, Mex. 649.
Islands, B. C. 675.
Mts., Colo. 496.
— — Teotihuacan, Mex.
655.
— Lorenzo, Mex. 658.
— Luis Obispo, Cal. 526,
de la Paz, Mex. 642.
Park, Colo. 492.
Potosi, Mex. 642.
— Marcial, N.M. 479.
— Marco Pass , Cal. 527,
— Marcos, Tex. 594.
— Mateo, Cal. 521.
, Fla. 618.
Mt., N. M. 479.
— Miguel, Cal. 525.
deAllende,Mex.642
Mts., Colo. 493.
— Pablo, Cal. 465.
— Pedro, Cal. 534.
— Terrace, Cal. 521
, Mex. 645.
— Rafae], Cal. 517.
Ramon, Cal. 519.
Vicente, Mex. 658.
Ysidro Ranch, Cal. 527.
Santa Ana, Cal. 538.
— , Mex. 656.
Anita, Cal. 486.
— , Mex. 654.
— Barbara, Cal. 527.
— Catalina, CaL 535,
Catarina, Mex. 642.
Clara, CaL 522.
, Cuba 667.
— Cruz, Cal. 520.
, N.M. 493.
— (island), Cal. 528.
Santa Cruz Mts., Cal. 520.
Park, N. Y. 103.
— Eulalia, Mex. 645.
— Fe, N.M. 478.
Springs, Cal. 537.
— Lucrecia, Mex. 657,
— Margarita, Cal. 526.
— Maria, Cal. 526.
— Monica, Cal. 534.
Santanoni Mt., N. Y. 115.
— Paula, Cal. 528.
— Rosa, Cal. 518.
(island), Cal. 528.
, N. Mex. 487.
— Rosalia, Mex. 646.
— Susana, Cal. 529.
— Ynez Valley, Cal. 527.
— Ysabel Hot Springs,
Cal, 526.
Santiago de Cuba 667.
— Papasquiaro, Mex. 645.
Santo Domingo, N.M. 478.
Sanz, Mex. 658.
Sapinero, Colo. 496.
Sapphire Country, N. C.
601.
Saranae Inn, N. Y. 107.
— Lake, N. Y. 106.
— Lakes, N. Y. 107. 108.
Sarasota, Fla. 629.
Saratoga, N.Y. 119.
— Lake, N.Y. 121.
Sardis, Mi«s. 5?7. 588.
Sargent, Colo. 496.
— Mt., Me. 296.
Sargentville, Me. 292.
Sarnia, Ont. 364.
Saticoy, Cal. 528.
Satsuma, Fla. 624.
Saugerties, N.Y. 85.
Saugus, Cal. 529. 531.
Sauk Centre, Minn. 399.
Rapids, Minn. 438.
Sault-Ste-Marie, Ont. 397,
aunderstown, R. I. 243.
Sausalito, Cal. 517.
Savanna, 111. 417.
Savannah, Ga. 60-.
Savin Rock, Ct, 237.
Savoy, Mont. 435.
Saw-Tooth Mts., Idaho
467.
Saybrook, Ct. 242.
Sayre Junction, N.Y. 184.
Sayula, Mex. 649.
Scarborough, Me. 287.
Beach, Me. 287.
Schenectady, N. Y. 129.
Sehenevus, N.Y. 96.
Schodack, :N. Y. 85.
Schoharie, N.Y. 96.
Schoodick Lake, Me. 291.
Schoolcraft, Mich. 364.
718
INDEX.
Schooleys Mt., N.Y.140.
Schroon Lake , N.Y. 119.
— Eiver P. 0., N.Y. 115.
Schuylerville, N.Y. 122.
Schuylkill Haven, Pa.l87.
Scliwanders, Colo. 474.
Scioto River 349.
— Valley, 0. 576.
Scitnate, Mass. 276.
Scotland, Va. 561.
Scott City, Kan. 427.
— Mta., Cal. 505.
Scotf s, N. H. 306.
Scranton, Miss. 574.
— Pa. 141.
Sea Bright, N. J. 177.
Seabnrg, Me. 285.
Sea Cliff, KY. 80.
— Gate, N. Y. 79.
— Girt, N. J. 177.
— Islands, Ga. 610.
— Isle City, N. .T. 181.
Seal Harbor, Me. 296.
Sear=port, Me 291.
Seaside Park, N. J. 179.
Seattle, Wash. 437,
Sehago Lake, Me. 304.
Sebastirn, Fla. 620.
Sebasticook River 290.
Seboois Lake, Me. 291.
Sedalia, Colo. 488.
-, Mo. 427.
Sedro-Woolley,Wash.438.
Seligman, Ariz. 483.
Sellersville, Pa. 182.
Selma, N.C. 602.
Seneca, S.C. 570.
— Falls, N.Y. 133.
— Lake, N.Y. 134.
— River 133.
Sentinel Butte, N.D. 440.
— Dome, Cal. 545.
— Rock, Cal. 545.
Septdchrs :\It., Wyo. 451.
Sequoia National Park.
Cal. 484.
Serpent Mound, 0. 408.
Servilleta, N. M. 493.
Setauket, N.Y. 80.
Seven Devils, Ore. 46 >.
— Lakes, Colo. 490.
— Pines, Va. 559.
Seville, Fla. 626.
Sewal, la. 426.
Sevsrard City, Alaska 686
— Mt., N. Y. 115.
Seymour Narrovrs , B. C
676.
Shakers, N.Y. 96.
Shandaksn, N.Y. 103.
Sharon, Mass. 245.
— , N. Y. 74.
— , Pa. 232.
Shaion, Vt. 314.
— , Wis. 385.
Springs, N. Y. 96.
Sharp Mt.. Pa. 187.
Sharpsburg, Md. 597.
Shasta Mt., Cal. 505.
Springs, Cal. 505.
Shavano Mt., Colo. 495.^
Shawanese Lake, Pa. 184.
Shawangunk Mts. 142.
Shavrsville, Va. 576.
Sheffield, Ala. 579.
, Mass. 337.
Shelburne, N.H. 303.
— , Vt. 311.
— Falls, Mass. 335.
Shelby Junction , Mont.
435.
Shelbyville, 111. 409.
Ky. 567.
— , Tenn. 579.
Sheldon, HI. 401.
Springs, Vt. 315.
Shelter Island, N.Y. 80.
Shelving Rock Mt. , N.Y,
123.
Shenandoah, Va. 598.
— June, W.Va. 351.
— River 351.
— Valley, W.Va. 597.
Shendun, Va, 598.
Shepherdstown, W.Va,
597.
Sherbrooke, Que. 304.
Sheridan, Colo. 474.
, Wyo. 422.
, Mt., N. Y. 102.
Sherman, Me. 291.
, Wyo. 460.
Sherwood, Cal. 518.
Shetucket River 247.
Shinnecock Hills, N.Y. 81,
Shirley, Va. 560.
Shoals, Ind. 410.
Shokan, N.Y. 101.
Shorb, Cal. 549.
Shoshone Falls, Idaho
467.
— Lake, Wyo. 455.
Shreveport, La. 637.
Shrewsbury, Mass. 241.
-, N. J. 179.
— River 178.
Shumla, Tex. 591.
Siasconset, Mass. 278.
Sidnaw, Mich. 395.
Sidnev, Neb. 460.
— , N.Y. 231.
Sierra Blanca, Tex. 591
— Madre, Cal. 535.
— Mojada, Mex. 646.
— Morena, Cal. 521.
— Nevada, Cal. 464.
Signal Peak, Cal. 549.
Silao, Mex. 648.
Silver Bay, N. Y. 124.
— Bow Mines, Alaska 682.
— Cascade, N. H. 326.
— City, N. M. 552.
, Utah 497.
Creek, N.Y. 353.
— Lake, Masp. 275.
-, N. Y. 144.
, Vt. 310.
Plume, Colo. 473.
Springs, Fla. 626.
— , N.Y. 144.
— June. 629.
Silverton, Colo. 494.
Simcoe, Ont. 229.
Simmesport, La. 637.
Sims, Cal. 505.
Sing Sing, N. Y. 87.
Sioux City, la. 398.
Falls, S.D. 393.
Sir John's Run, W.Va.
351.
Siskiyou, Ore. 506.
Sisson, Cal. 505.
Sitka, Alaska 685.
Skaggs' Springs, Cal. 518.
Skagway, Alaska 682.
Skaneateles Lake , N.Y.
133.
Skowhegan, Me. 290.
Skylight, N. Y. 114.
Skykomish, Wash. 43o.
8ky Top, N. Y. 91.
Slatington, Pa. 182.
Sleepy Hollow, N. Y. 87
Slide Mt., N.Y. 103.
Smelter, Utah 503.
Smith's Ferry, Mass. 344.
Snake Mt., Vt. 310.
River 467.
Snohomish, Wash. 436.
438.
Snoqualmie Fall, Wash.
437.
Snowden, Colo. 498.
Sobobo, Cal. 485.
Social Circle, Ga. 607.
Socorro, N. M. 479.
Soda Springs, Cal. 505.
548.
, Colo. 498.
, Idaho 467.
Soldier Summit, Utah 497.
Soledad, Cal. 525.
— , Mex. 644. 647.
— Pass, Cal. 531.
Solomon's Gulch, Cal. 542.
Solomonsville, Ariz. 552.
Solon, Me. 300.
Solvay, N. Y. 133,
Somerset, Ky. 583.
INDEX.
719
Somerset, Colo. 496.
— , Mass. 253.
— June, Me. 300.
Somers worth, N. H. 319.
Somerville, Mass. 306.
— , Tex. 477.
Somes Sound, Me. 297.
Somesville, Me. 297.
Sonestown, Pa. 185.
Sonoma, Cal. 519.
Soo Junction, Mich. 396.
— Ship Canal 397.
Sorrento, Cal. 538.
— , Me. 291.
Sour Lake, Tex. 596.
South Amboy, N. J. 176.
Southampton, N.Y. 81.
P outh Ashburnham, Mass.
309
— Beach, N.Y. 72.
— Beacon Hill, N. Y. 87.
— Bend, Ind. 357.
— Berwick, Me. 319.
— Boston, Va. 602.
— Braintree, Mass. 253.
Southbridge, Mass. 246.
South Carolina 571. 613.
— Channel, N. Y. 2.
— Dakota 398.
— Deerfield, Mass. 345.
— Dome, Cal. 544.
Southern Pines, N.C. 581.
South Fork, Colo. 492.
— Framingham, Mass.
241.
— Gilboa, N.Y. 104.
— Hadlev, Mass. 345.
— Haven, Mich. 363.
— Hero, Vt. 311. 126.
— Hook Mt., N.Y. 88.
— Lagrange, Me. 300.
— Lake, N. Y. 103.
— Lancaster, Mass. 309.
— Lawrence, Mass. 286.
— Lee, Mass. 337.
— McAlester, I.T. 424.
— Mt., Mass. 342.
N.Y. 99.
— Norwalk, Ct. 235.
— Paris, Me. 303.
— Park, Colo. 475.
— Plainfield, N.J. 144.
— Platte, Colo. 474.
~ Rangeley, Me. 299.
— Ripley, Ky. 404.
— Riverside, Cal. 486.
— Rocky Mt. , N. C. 570.
— Ryegate, Vt. 318.
— Schenectady, N.Y. 139.
■ — Vernon, Vt. 345.
— West Harbor, Me. 296.
— Wevmouth, Mass. 275.
Spanish Peaks, Colo. 492
Spanishtown, Cal. 521.
Sparta, Wis. 384.
Spartanburg, S. C. 571.
Spearfish, S. D. 422.
Spencer, Mass. 241.
Sphinx, Mont. 450.
Spinney, Colo. 498.
Spirit Lake, la. 417.
Split Rock Mt., N.Y. 125.
Spofford June, Tex. 591.
Spokane, Wash. 443.
Spottsylvania Court
House, Va. 555.
Sprague, Wash. 444.
Spring City, Tenn. 583.
Springdale, Mont. 441.
. Utah 503.
Springfield, Ark. 5S9.
— 111. 400.
— , Ky. 583.
Mass. 239.
O. 404.
Pa. 353.
Spring Hill, Ala. 574.
— Lake, N.J. 177.
— Park, Minn. 398.
SpringviUe, Utah 497.
SpuytenDuyvil, N.Y. 86.
Squam Lake, N.H. 317.
Squirrel Island, Me. 292.
Staatsburg, N. Y. 8S.
Stacyville, Me. 291.
Staked Plain, Great, Tex.
638.
Stamford, Ct. 235.
N.Y. 104.
Stampede Tunnel, Wash
444.
Stanbridge, Que. 315.
Stanford University, Cal.
522.
Stanley Island 155.
Stanwood, Wash. 438.
Staples, Minn. 439.
Stapleton, N.Y. 72.
Starbuck, Wash. 4U.
Star Island, N.H. 285
Starke, Fla. 628.
Starr King Mt., Cal. 5
, N. H. 330. 305.
Star Rock, N. Y. 102.
State Line, Ala. 400.
, Ind. 410.
, Mass. 334.
, N. Y. 353.
Staten Island, N.Y. 72. 2.
Statesboro, Ga. 610.
Statesville, N. C. 599.
Staunton, Va. 565.
Steamboat Springs, Colo.
475.
Steelton, Pa. 189.
Steep Falls, Me. 304.
Stein's Pass, N.M. 552.
Sterling, 111. 419. 423.
Steubenville, O. 349.
Stevenson, Ala. 579.
Steven's Point, Wis. 387.
Stewarthust, Me. 300.
Stickney Mt., N. H. 327.
Stockbridge, Mass. 339.
Bowl, Blass. 340.
Stockton, Cal. 465.
— , HI. 387.
Stone Mt., Ga. 571.
Stonington, Ct. 243.
Stony Erook, Minn. 394.
Clove, N.Y. 102.
— Creek, Ct. 242.
Ponds, N. Y. 108.
— Hollow, N.Y. 101.
Man, Va. 597.
Mt., N. Y. 102.
— Point, N.Y. 83.
Storm King, N. Y. 87.
Mt.. N. Y. 84.
, Wash. 438.
StoughtonJunc.,Mass.253.
Stowe, Vt. 315.
Strang, Tex. 594.
Straw Point, N.H. 284.
Strawberry Valley, Cal.
485.
Streator, 111. 423.
Strong, Me. 298.
Stroudsburg, Pa. 141.
Stuart, Fla. 621.
Sturgis, Mich. 357.
Stuyvesant, N. Y. 85.
Sublette, N.M. 493.
Sudbury, Mass. 241.
— , Vt. 310.
Suffern, N.J. 142.
Suffolk, Va. 564.
Sugar Hill, N. H. 330.
— Loaf Mt. (Catskills),
N. Y. 102.
(on Hudson) N.Y
84.
Suisun, Cal. 465.
Sullivan, Me. 291.
Sulphur, La. 596.
Sultan Mt., Colo. 494.
Sumas, B.C. 43S.
Summerland, Cal. 528.
Summerville, Ga. 607.
— , S. C. 606.
Summit, Cal. 486.
— , Mont. 435.
— , N.J. 140.
-, Vt. 310.
— Hill, N. Y. 104.
. Pa. 183.
— Station, Cal. 464.
, Vt. 318.
Summitville, N. Y. 230.
720
INDEX.
Sumner, Wash. 445.
Sumter, S.C 606. .
Sunapee Lake. N.H. 314.
Sunbright, Tenn. 583.
Sunbury, Pa. 185.
Sunset Park, N. Y. 103.
— Rock, N.Y. 100.
Superior, Wis. 395.
— Lake 396.
Surf, Cal. 526.
Surfside, Mass. 278.
Surprise Mt., N.H. 324.
Surry, Va. 561.
Suspension Bridge, N.Y.
144. 363.
Susquehanna, Pa. 144.
Sutherland, Fla. 627.
Sutton Island, Me. 293.
Sutro Heights, Cal. 516.
Suwanee, Ga. 571.
— River, Fla. 629.
— Springs, Fla. 630.
Swampscott, Mass. 280.
Swan Island, Me. 292.
Swanton, Cal. 521.
— Junction, Vt. 315.
— W;iter Station, Md.352.
Swarthmore, Pa. 175.
Sweet Grass Hills, Mont.
435.
— Springs, Va. 566.
Sweet Water, Tex. 633.
Switchbach, Alaska 683.
Sycamore, 111. 387.
Sylvan Beach, Jf.Y. 231.
, Tex. 594.
Sylvan Glade Falls, N.H.
326.
Sylvania. Ga. 610.
— , O. 357.
Symon, Mex. 646.
Syracuse, N.Y. 132.
Tacoma, Fla. 628.
— , Wash. 445.
— Mt., Wash. 446.
Taconic Falls, Me. 290.
— Mts. , Mass. 334. 33 L^. 343
Tacuba, Mex. 644.
Tiicubaya, Mex. 654.
Taghanic Fall, N. Y. 146
Taghkanic Mts. 334. 336,
Tahawus, N.Y. 115.
Tahoe Lake, Cal. 463.
Taku Inlet, Alaskn 681.
Talcott, W. Va. 567.
Tallac, Cal. 463.
Tallahassee, Fla. 630.
Tallulah Falls, Ga. 571.
Tama, la. 417. 419.
Tamalpais Mt., Cal. 517.
Tamasopo Canyon, Mex,
647.
Tammany Mt., Pa. 141.
Tampa, Fla. 627.
Tampico, Mex. 647.
Taninul, Mex. 647.
Tannersville, N. Y. 102.
98
Tappan, -^T. J. 389.
— Zee, 17.Y. 83. 86.
Tarpon Springs, Fla. 627.
Tarry town, N. Y. 87.
Tassajara, Cal. 525.
Tate Spring, Tenn. 577.
Taunton, Mass. 253.
Tavares, Fla. 627.
Tavernier, Fla. 623.
Taylor Mt., N.M. 479.
Tear of Clouds, N. Y. 114.
82.
Tecoma, Nev. 462.
Tehachapi Pass, Cal. 530.
Tehama, Cal. 504.
Tehuacan, Mex. 659.
Tehuantepec, Mex. 657.
Tejen'a, Mex. 657.
Tekoa, Wash. 444.
Teller's Point, :N. Y. 83.
TeUes, Mex. 655.
Telluride, Colo. 493.
Temecula, Cal. 486.
Temple Junction, Tex,
477.
Tenango, Mex. 643.
Tenaya Lake, Cal. 548.
Tenino, Wash. 446.
Tennessee (state) 583.
Pass, Colo. 495.
TenniUe, Ga. 607.
Tepa, Mex. 655.
Tepehuanes, Mex. 645.
Tepetongo, Mex. 643.
Tepeyahualcn, Mex. 658,
Tepotzlan, Mex. 655.
Tepozteco, Mex. 655.
Terra Alfa, W.Va. 352.
— Ceia, Fla. 629.
Terrace Mt., Wyo. 450.
Terrazas, Mex. 645.
Terre Haute, Ind. 409.
Teton Mts., Idaho 456.
Texada Island, B. C. 676
Texarkana, Tex. 590.
Texas 552.
— City June, Tex. 594.
Texcoco, Mex. 658.
Texhoma, Okla. 487.
Teziutlan, Mex. 658.
Tezonapa, Mex. 657.
Th acker, W.Va. 576.
Thackerville, I.T. 477.
Thenard, Cal. 534.
Thistle, Utah 497.
Thomas Bay, Alaska 681
Thomaston, Mich. 395.
Thomasville, Ga. 612.
Thompson's Falls, Mont.
443.
Thompsonville, Ct. 239.
Thorn Mt., N.H. 823.
Thornton, Cal. 521.
— N. M., 478.
Thousand Islands 154.
ThraU, Cal. 505.
Three Brothers, Cal. 544.
— Forks, Mont. 441.
— Rivers, N. Mex. 487.
Sisters, Ore. 506.
Throgg's Neck, N.Y. 247.
ThunderheadPeak, Tenn.
577.
Tia Juana, Cal. 540.
Tiburon, Cal. 517.
Tieeska, Idaho 468.
Ticonderoga, N.Y. 124.
— Fort, N.Y. 125.
Tierra Blanca, Mex. 657.
Tilsonburg, Ont. 229.
Tilton, ]!^.H. 316.
Tinnaka, Ariz. 483.
Tintah June, Minn. 398.
Tin'ic Junction, Utah 503.
— Mines, Utah 497.
Tinton Falls, N.J. 179.
Tippecanoe, Ind. 401.
— River 349.
Tipton, Cal. 530.
Tiptonville, Tenn. 430.
Tishomingo, I.T. 424.
TituRville, Fla. 620.
-, Pa. 201.
Tivoli, N.Y. 88.
Tlacotalpam, Mex. 657.
Tlacntept-c, Mex. 659.
Tlahualilo, Mex. 645.
Tlaneualpican, Mex. 660.
Tlaxcala, Mex. 656.
Tobin, Cal. 521.
Tobyhanna, Pa. 141.
Toby Mt., Mass. 335.
Tocaloma, Cal. 517.
Toccoa, Ga. 571.
Tocci, Fla. 624.
Tokerville, Utah 503.
Tolchester Beach, Md.208.
Toledo, 0. 356.
Tolland, Colo. 475.
Tolono, 111. 588.
Toltec Gorge, N.M. 493.
Toluca, Mex. 643.
— , Mont. 422.
Tom Mt., Mass. 344.
, N.H. 326.
Tomah, Wis. 384.
Tomellin, Mex. 659.
Tompkin-s Cove, N.Y. 83.
Tompkinsville, N.Y. 72.
Tom's River, N.J. 179.
INDEX.
721
Tonawanda, N.Y. 139.
Tonopah, Nev. 463.
Topeka, Kan. 470.
Topinabee, Mich. 362.
Top'icMco Springs, Mex
641.
Topolobampo, Mex. 646
Toronto, Oat. 139.
Torrance, N. Mex. 487.
Torreon, Mex. 616.
Torrey's Peak, Colo. 473
Tortugas, Mex. 655.
Tottenville, N.Y. 72.
Tower, Minn. 394.
— City, N. D. 439.
— Falls, Wyo. 459.
Towner, Colo. 427.
— , N.D. 435.
Toxoway Lake, N. C. 601
Tovah, Tex. 638.
Tracy, Cal. 529.
— City, Tean. 579.
Treadwell Mine, Alaska
682.
Tremont, Mass. 278.
Trempealeau, Wis. 429.
Tremper, Mt., N.Y. 102.
Trenton, Mieh. 356.
— , N.J. 157.
— Falls, N.Y. 131.
Tres Marias, Mex. 655.
— Pinos, Cal. 524.
Trevino, Mex. 614.
Tribes Hill, N.Y. 130.
Trilby, Fla. 626.
TriinbleSprings,Colo.494.
Trinidad, Colo. 477.
Trinway, O. 349.
Tfi-States Rock 143.
Tropico, Cal. 531.
Troat Creek, Mont. 443.
Pass, Colo. 498.
— Lake, Colo. 493.
, Ore. 469.
Troy, Idaho 436.
-, N.H. 309.
— , N.Y. 128.
Truckee, Cal. 463.
Trnro, Mass. 279.
Tryon, N. C. 601.
Tsimpsean, B.C. 677.
Tuckahoe, N.J. 181.
Tucker, Ga. 581.
Tuckerman's Ravine,
N. H. 333.
Tucson, Ariz. 551.
Tucumcari, N. Mex. 487,
Tula, Mex. 649.
Tulancingo, Mex. 655.
Tulare, Cal. 530.
Tularosa, N. Mex. 487.
Tullahoma, Tenn. 579.
Tultenango, Mex. 643.
Tumwater Canyon, Wash.
436.
Tunnelton, W.Va. 352.
Tuolumne Canyon, Cal.
547.
Meadows, Cal. 5i8.
Tupelo, Miss. 587.
Tupper Lakes, N.Y. 118.
Turkey Creek, Fla. 629.
Turluck, Cal. 529.
Turner's, N.Y. 142.
Falls, Mass. 335.
Turon, Kan. 487.
Turtle Mts., N.D. 435.
Tuscaloosa, Ala. 580.
Tuscan Mineral Springs.
Cal. 504.
Tuscarora Gap, Pa. 190.
Tusculum, Ga. 610.
Tuscumbia, Ala. 579.
Tuskegee, Ala. 572.
Tuxedo, N.Y. 142.
Taxpan, Mex. 649.
Twilight, N.Y. 103.
Twin Falls City, Idaho.
467.
— Lakes, Colo. 475.
, Me. 291.
— Mt., N.Y. 102.
House, N.H. 327.
— Mts., N. H. 327.
Two Harbors, Minn. 394
Tybee Beach, Ga. 610.
Tyngsboro, Mass. 313.
Tyringham, Mass. 340.
Tyrone, Pa. 190.
Tzintzuntzan, Mex. 643.
Uintah Mts., Wyo. 461.
Ukiah, Cal. 518.
Umatilla, Ore. 468.
Umhagog Lake, Me. 299.
Umbria, Utah 462.
Unadilla. N. Y. 97.
Unalaska, Alaska 686
Uncas, N.Y. 124.
— Road, N.Y. 116.
Uncompahgre Mts., Colo.
494. 496.
Underbill, Vt. 315.
Union City, Ind. 350. i
, Pa. 187.
— Point, Cal. 545.
— River 291.
— Springs, N.Y. 145.
Unionville, Me. 291.
University of CaL 46(
— Heights, N. Y. 73.
Upland, Cal. 486.
Urbana, 111. 583.
— , O. 350.
Uruapan, Mex. 643.
Utah (state) 461.
Bakdekeb's United SUtes 4th El it.
Utah Hot Springs, Utah
461.
— Lake, Utah 497.
— Line, Utah 497.
Ute Park, Colo. 493.
— Pass, Colo. 498. 490.
Utica, N.Y. 131.
UtowanaLake, N. Y. 117.
Utsayantha,Mt.,N.Y. 104.
Uvalde, Tex. 591.
Valcour Island, N. Y. 126.
Valdes Island, B. C. 676.
Valdez, Alaska 686.
Valentine, Ga. 608.
— , Tex. 591.
Vallejo, CaL 518.
— Junction, Cal. 466.
Valley City, N. D. 439.
— Cottage, N.Y. 88.
Valleyfield, Que. 129.
Valley Forge, Pa. 186.
— Stream, N. Y. 81.
Valparaiso, Ind. 358.
Van Buren, Me. 291.
Vanceboro, Me. 290.
Vance Junction, Colo. 492.
Van Cortlandt, N.Y. 74.
Vancouver, B. C. 437.
— , Wash. 444.
— Island, B. C. 675.
Vandalia, Mo. 409. 424.
Van Deusenville, Mass.
336.
Vanega', Mex. 6i2.
Van Etten, N.Y. 184.
— Rensselaer Place, N.Y.
86.
— Wert, 0. 349.
Varina, Va. 560.
Vassar, Mich. 362.
— College 88.
Venta Salada, Mex. 659.
Ventura, Cal. 528.
Vera Cruz, Mex. 657.
Vergennes, Vt. 311.
Vermilion Lake, Minn.
394.
— Mts., Minn. 394.
Vermillion, 0. 35 i.
Vermont (state) 304.
Vernal Fall, Cal. 546.
Vernon, Ct. 246.
Verplanck^s Point, N.Y.
83.
Versailles, 0. 409.
Verstovaia Mt. , Alaska
685.
Vesuvius, Va. 598.
Veta Pass, Colo. 492.
Vicksburg, Miss. 587.
Victor, Colo. 491.
Victoria, B. C. 674.
46
722
INDEX.
Victoria, Mex. 646.
— Lodge, IT. Y. 123.
— Park, Out. 358.
Victory, Wis. 429.
Viga Canal, Mex. 654.
ViUaldama, Mex. 641.
Villa Nova, Pa. 188.
Vincennes, Ind. 410.
Vineland, N. J. 179.
VineyardHaven,Mass.27T.
Vinita, L T. 424.
Virgin River, Utah 503.
Virginia (state) 554.
— , Valley of 351.
— , Minn. 394.
— , Nev. 463.
— Beach, Va. 582.
— Valley, Va. 597.
Visalia, Cal. 484.
Vollmer, Wash. 444.
Volusia, Fla. 625.
Voorheesville, N. Y. 96.
Vosburg, Pa. 184.
Wabash, Ind. 410.
Wabasha, Minn. 384.
Wachusett, Mass. 309.
Waco, Tex. 477.
Wadena. Minn. 439.
Wades, Tenn. 430.
Wadesboro, N. C. 581.
Wading River. N. Y. 80.
Wadlev, Ga. 611.
Wadsworth, lU. 331.
Wa20n Mound, If. M. 477.
— Wheel Gap, Colo. 492.
Wagoner, I. T. 424.
Wahpeton, K. D. 398.
Wakefield, Mass. 285.
— , Va. 564. 210.
Wakulla Spring, Fla. 630.
Walden Pond, Mass. 306.
Waldo, Fla. 628.
Walker, Minn. 438.
Wallabout Bay, If.Y. 247.
Wallaoe, Kan. 470.
Walla Walla, Wash. 444.
Wallface Mt., if. Y. 115.
WaUington, N. Y. 231.
WaUowa Lake, Idaho 468.
Wallula, Wash. 444.
Walnut, Canvon,Ariz. 480,
— Creek, Cal. 519.
— Ridge, Ark. 589.
Walpole, Mass. 246.
— , :s-. H. 309.
Waltham, Mass. 306.
Walton, Ky. 583.
— , 17. Y. 231.
Wamego, Kan. 470.
Wanatah, Ind. 349.
Wannee, Fla. 628.
Wards Island, N. Y. 71.
Wareham, Mass. 279.
Waretown, N. J. 179.
Warner Springs, Cal. 539.
Warren, N. H. 317.
Pa. 187.
Wash. 447.
— Summit, N.H. 317.
Warrensville, O. 356.
Warsaw, 111. 430.
— , Ind. 3i9.
Wartrace, Tenn. 579.
Wasatch Mts., Utah 461.
497.
Washburn Mt., Wyo. 459.
Washington (state) 443.
Washington, D. C. 211.
Alms House 226.
American Republics,
Bureau of 224.
— University 228.
Arlinsjton House 227.
Armoury 222.
Army Medical Museum
218.
— War College 225.
Belasco Theatre 222.
211.
Botanic Gardens 218.
British Embassy 226.
212
Capitol 213.
Carnegie Institute 222.
227.
Census Bureau 225.
Chase's Theatre 222.
City Hall 225.
Congress, Library of
216.
ConifressionalCemetery
226.
Corcoran Art Gallery
223.
Daughters of the Amer.
Revolution Bldg. 224
Deaf and Dumb In-
stitution 226.
District Building 225.
— Cotirt House 225.
Executive Grounds 222.
— Mansion 223.
Fish Commission 218.
Ford's Theatre 225.
Georgetown 227.
G«or?e Washington
University 222.
Government Printin
Office 225.
Grand Opera House
222. 211.
HowardUniversity 22€
Hygiene, Museum of
226.
Insane Asylum 226.
Washington :
Interior, Dept. of the
325.
Jail 226.
Judiciary Square 325.
Justice, Dept. of 222.
Lafayette Square 222.
Land Office 225.
Lincoln Square 226.
Marine Barracks 226.
Monuments :
Daguerre 218.
Dupont 226.
Farragut 226.
Franklin 226.
Frederick the Great
226.
Garfield 218.
Greene 226.
Gross 218.
Hahnemann 226.
Hancock 226.
Henry 220.
Jackson 222.
Lafayette 222.
Lincoln 225.
Logan 226.
Longfellow 226.
Luther 226.
McCleUan 226.
McPherson 226.
Marshall 218.
Pike 225.
Rawlins 226.
Rochambeau 222.
W. Scott 226.
Sherman 222.
Thomas 226.
Washington 221. 226.
National Cemetery 22 <
— Military Cem. 227.
— Museum 218. 221.
— Zoological Park 227
Naval Monument 218.
— Observatory 226.
Navy Dept 223.
— Yard 323.
Oak HiU Cemetery 227
Octagon Ho. 223.
Patent Office 225.
Peace Cross 227,
— Monument 218.
Pension Office 225.
Post Office 225. 212.
Public Baths 222.
— Library 225.
Railway Station 213.
211.
Rock Creek Cem. 227
Park 227.
Signal Office 226.
Smithsonian Institu-
tion 220.
INDEX.
723
Washingfton :
Soldiers' Home 226.
State, Wax, & Navy
Department 223.
Theatres 211.
Treasury 222.
— Union Ey. Station 213.
— Trust Co. 222.
University (R. C.) 227.
War Department 223.
Washington Barracks
225.
— Obelisk 221.
Weather Bureau 226.
White House 223.
Zoological Garden 227.
Washington, Ind. 410.
— , N. J. 140.
— County, Me.' 291.
— Junction, Me. 291.
, Md. 350.
Washington Lake, Wash.
437.
— Mt., Mass. 338.
, N. H. 331.
— Tower, Cal. 544.
Washita, Okla. 477.
Washoe Mts., Idaho 467.
Waskom, Tex. 637.
Watch Hill, R. I. 243.
Waterbury, Ct. 239.
-, Vt. 315.
Waterford, Pa. 187.
— , Me. 304.
— Junction, N.Y. 127.
Waterloo, la. 386. 425.
— , N. Y. 237.
Watertown, N.Y. 182.
— , S. D. 398.
— , Wis. 384.
Waterville, Me. 290.
— , Minn. 386.
— , N.H. 317.
WatervUet, N. Y, 127.
Watkins, Colo. 471.
-, N.Y. 184.
— Glen, N.Y. 134.
— Mt., Cal. 547.
Watson, Ind. 586.
Watsonville, Cal. 524.
Waukegan, lU. 380.
Waukesha, Wis. 383.
Waupaga, Wis. 387.
Wauwatosa, Wis. 383.
Waverley, Mass. 275.
Wawona, Cal. 548.
Waxhaw, N. C. 581.
Waycross, Ga. 612.
Wayland, N. Y. 142.
Wayne Junction, Mich.
362.
, Pa. 158.
Waynesville, N. C. 601.
Way's, Ga. 612,
Wayzaita, Winn. 398.
Weatherford, Tex. 638.
Weber Canyon, Utah 461.
Webster, Mass. 246.
— Mt., N. H. 326. 305.
Weed, Cal. 505.
Weedsport, N.Y. 133.
Weehawken, N. J. 73.
Weirs, N. H. 316.
Weiser, Ore. 468.
Weissport, Pa. 183.
Welaka, Fla. 6'24.
Weldon, N. C. 562.
Wela Pond, Me. 293.
Welland, Ont. 358. 229.
Wellesley, Mass. 241.
Wellfleet, Mass. 2(9.
Wellington, Wash. 436.
Wells, Nev. 462.
— Beach, Me. 286.
— River, Vt. 317.
WellsviUe, N. Y. 231.
-, 0. 201.
Wenatchee, Wash. 436.
Wenham, Mass. 283.
West Albany, N. Y. 129.
— Athens, N. Y. 91.
— Baldwin, Me. 304.
— Barnstable, Mass. 279.
— Brighton, N.Y. 79.
— Chazy, N.Y. 128.
— Chester, Pa. 175.
— Chop, Mass. 277.
— Davenport, N. Y. 104.
, N.Y. 79.
— Englewood, N. J. 88.
Westerly, R. I. 243.
Western North Carolina
598.
Westfield, Mass. 334.
— , N. Y. 353.
Westhampton, N.Y. 81.
West Hartford, Vt. 314.
— Hurley, N.Y. 101.
— Jupiter, Fla. 621.
— Lebanon, N. H. 314.
— Liberty, la. 420.
Westminster, Md. 209.
— Park, N. Y. 154.
Westmoreland, N. H. 309.
West Newton, Mass. 241.
— Nyack, N.Y. 88.
Weston, Mass. 306.
West Ossipee, N. H. 319.
Westover, Va. 560.
West Palm Beach,Fla.621.
— Pittsfield, Mass. 334.
— Point, Ga. 572.
, N.Y. 89.
, Va. 559.
Westport, N.Y. 109.
West Quincy, Mo. 426.
West Stewartson,N.H.306.
— Stockbridge, Mass. 174.
Superior, Wis. 395.
Virginia 189.
Weverton, Md. 350.
Weyanoke, Va. 561.
Weymouth, Mass. 275.
Wheatland, la. 419.
Wheeling, W.Va. 352,
— June, W.Va. 349.
White Beach, Ct. 242.
— Bear Lake, Minn. 393.
— Creek, N. Y. 129.
Whiteface Mt., N. Y. 111.
Whitefield, N.H. 318.
Whitehall, N.Y. 127.
White Haven, Pa. 183.
— Hills, Ariz. 483.
— Horse, Can. 684.
— Lake, N. Y. 116.
— Mt. House, N. H. 305.
Notch, N. H. 305.
325.
— Mts., N. H. 320.
— Pass, Alaska 683.
— Pigeon, Mich. 357.
— Plains, Nev. 462.
, N. Y. 74.
— RiverJunc.,Vt.314.345.
— Sulphur, CaL 518.
— Water, Cal. 550.
Whitings, N. J. 179.
Whitman, Mass. 275.
Whittaker, Miss. 587.
Wichita, Kan. 476.
Wickford, R. I. 243.
Wilbur, Colo. 494.
Wilcox, Ariz. 552.
— Pa. 187.
Wilderness, the, Va. 555.
Wildwood, Fla. 629.
— , Minn. 390.
VVilkes-Barre, Pa. 183.
Wilkeson, Wash. 446.
Wilkinsburg, Pa. 192.
Willard, Utah 461.
— Mt., N.H. 326.
Willcox Landing, Va. 561.
Willey House, N. H. 326.
— Mt., N. H. 326.
Williams, Ariz. 480.
— Canyon, Colo. 491.
Williamsburg, Va. 562.
Williamson, Pa. 175.
Williamsport, Md. 189.
-, Pa. 185.
Williamstown, Mass. 343.
Willimantie, Ct. 246.
Williston, N. D. 435.
-, Vt. 315.
WiUits, Cal. 518.
Willmar, Minn. 398.
WiUoughbyLake, Vt.318.
46*
724
INDEX.
Willsboro, KY. 128.
Wilmingron, Gal. 534.
— , Del. 202.
— , Mass. 312.
— , N. C. 602.
— , N.Y. 111.
Wilson, N. C. 570.
— Mt., Cal. 536.
— Springs, Me, 298.
Wilton, Ct. 336.
— , Me. 298.
Winamae, Ind. 350.
Winchendon, Mass. 309.
Winchester, Ky. 567.
— Mass. 312.
— , W. Va. 189.
Windsor, Ont. 358.
— , Va. 564.
— Beach, N.Y. 231.
Winfield, Kan. 476.
Wingate, N. M. 479.
Wing Road, N. H. 818.
Winkelman, Ariz. 551.
Winnebago Lake, Wis.
387.
Winnemucca, Nev. 462.
Winnipeg, Can. 398.
— Junction, Minn.
439.
Winnipesaukee orWinni-
piseogee Lake, N.H.316.
Winnisnuam Lake, IN. H.
316.
W^inona, Minn. 384.
— , Wash. 444.
Winslow, Ariz. 480.
— , Me. 290.
— .Tunction, N. J. 179.
Winston-Salem, Va. 570.
Winter Park, Fla. 627.
Wisconsin (state) 380.
Wittenberg, 3It., N.Y.102.
Wizard Island, Ore. 506,
Wobnm, Mass. 312.
Wolcott, Colo. 495.
Wolcottville, Ind. 229.
Wolf, Minn. 394.
Wolfeborough, N. H. 316.
Woodbnrn, Ky. 582.
Woodbury, N. J. 180.
Woodford, S. C. 613.
Woodhaven Junction,
N". Y. 80.
Woodland Park,Colo. 498.
Woodlawn, N.Y. 235.
Woodsburgh, Is^. Y. 81.
Wood's Hole, Mass. 277.
Woods of Arden, N. Y. 72.
Woodstock, ]sr. Y. 101.
-, Ont. 36i.
— , S. C. 606.
— , Tenn. 586.
— , Vt. 314.
Woodsville, N. H. 317.
Woolwich, Me. 292.
Woonsocket, R. I. 245.
Worcester, Mass. 240.
Wrangell, Alaska 680.
Wrights, Cal. 520.
Wyandotte Cave, Ind.417.
Wyeth, Ore. 469.
Wyoming (state) 450.
— Valley, Pa. 184.
Wytheville, Va. 576.
Xenia, 0- 403.
Xocbicalco, Mex. 655.
Xochimilieo Lake, ^fex,
654.
Yakima, Wash. 444.
Yale Mt., Colo. 474.
— University, Ct. 236.
Yancey's, Wyo. 459.
Yaquina, Ore. 506.
Yardley, Pa. 158.
Yarmouth, Mass. 279.
— , Minn. 398.
Ybor City, Fla. 629.
Yellovs'stone Falls, Wyo.
458.
Grand Canvon, WVo.
458.
— Lake, Wyo. 456.
— Park, Wyo. 447.
Yellow Sulphur Springs,
Va. 576.
— Tavern, Va. 559.
Yemassee, S. C. 608.
Yerba Buena, Cal. 517.
Yonah Mt., Ga. 571.
Yonkers, ls\ Y. 86.
York Beach, Me. 285.
— Harbor, Me. 285.
Yorktown, Va. 559.
Yosemite Valley, Cal.54Q
542.
— Falls, Cal. 544.
— Point, Cal. 544.
— Village, Cal. 542.
Youngstown, 0. 232.
Yountville, Cal. 518.
Ypsilanti, Mich. 362.
Ysleta, Tex. 591.
Yukon, Can. 686.
Yulee, Fla. 613.
Yuma, Ariz. 551.
Yurecuars, Mex. 64S.
Zacatecas, Mex. 646.
Zanesville, 0. 352.
Zapotlan, Mex. 649.
Zealand, N. H. 327.
Zion City, 111. 380.
Zuni, N. M. 552.
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