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The Admiral Franklin Hanford
Collection in
The New York Public Library
• 1929 '
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■W'i\u'""' iiitiir i!!.'''»iJi' ;l^
UPPER LAKES
OF
NOETH AMERICA;
^ BEING
E dKuiire
FROM
I^IAGAKA FALLS Al^TD TOEOXTO
TO MACKI}fAC, CHICAGO, SAUT STE MAEIE, ETC.,
PASSrSQ THEOTTGH
EETUENING THEOITSH
LAKES HURON AND ST. CLAIR,
TO
DETROIT AND BUFFALO
NEW YORK:
^ PUBLISHED BY J. DISTURNELL,
. No. 16 BEEKMAN ^STREET.
•""] 1857.
i
THE l.'S'*?f TORK
PUBLIC LianAI^Y
■475197 A
AiT©R, LEMUf: •
EXTEEED, according to Act of Congress, in tlie year 1857, by
JOHN DISTUENELL,
the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
Southern District of New York.
• aa,4 31 Beeksian St., N.
TO THE TRAVELING PUBLIC.
The volume entitled the " Upper Lakes of North Amer-
ica" Tvill be found to contain all the information necessary to
be obtained before visiting the Inland Seas of America, now
opened to Commerce and Pleasure Excursions — affording, dur-
ing the Summer months, a Trip of the most interesting char-
acter.
Lakes Erie, Huron, Michigan, and Superior, together with
the numerous Bays, Lilets, and Islands, afford a variety of in-
structive scenery unequaled in grandeur, both on land and
water. The Georgian Bay and North Channel, within the con-
fines of Canada, together with the Straits of ^Mackinac and
Green Bay, lying wholly within the United States, are of them-
selves large and attractive bodies of water, alike interesting to
the seeker of health or pleasure.
The most convenient approach to Lake Superior, the present
season, for Eastern travelers, is to take a steamer at Cleveland
or Detroit, passing through Lake St. Clair and River into
Lake Huron, thence through the beautiful St. INIary's Pdver to—
Lake Superior. The Western traveler can approach the sar^j^^
point by starting from Chicago, or jNIilwaukee, and pa ^^^
TO THE TRAVELING PUBLIC.
through the Straits of Mackinac, affording an aUke grand
and instructive excursion.
The Collingwood Route, passing through Georgian Bay,
although for the present time discontinued, is no doubt des-
tined to form the great thoroughfare from the Eastern and
Northern States and Canada into the Upper Lakes, and from
thence to the head sources of the Mississippi and Red River
country, by railroad, passing westward to the Upper ^lissouri,
and thence to the confines of the Pacific Ocean— thus forming,
altogether, an International Route extending from ocean to
ocean. ^ j^
New Tobk, June, 185T.
CONTENTS.
Page
Table of Distances, etc.
Koute from New York to Montreal, Canada 13
Route from New York to Niagara Falls, Toronto, e^^ 14
Route from Toronto to Collingwood and Saut Ste Marie. . 15
Route from Saut Ste Marie to Superior City, Wis 16
Route from New York to Falls of St. Anthony, via Lake
Superior : 16
Railroad Route from Toronto to Collin^gwood, axd Trip
aroujvd Lake Simcoe. — Toronto — Thornhill — Aurora —
New Market — Holland Landing — Bradford — Bell Ewart —
Lake Simcoe — Beaver ton — Atherly — Orillia — Rama —
Hawkstone — Barrie — Collikgwood — Nottawassaga Bay —
Toronto and Georgian Bay Canal Page 17-26
Trip from Orillia to Georgian Bay. — SeTern River — Rap-
ids and Falls — Penetanguishene — Christian Island — Georgian
Bay — Innumerable Islands — French River 27-32
Trip from Collingwood to the Saut Ste Marie. — Owen's
Sound — Lonely Island — Squaw Island — Smyth's Bay — La
Cloche Mountains — She-ba- wa-nah-ning — Man-i-tou- wah-
ning — Little Current — Clapperton Island — Cockburn Island —
Drummond Island — Bruce Mines— Campement D'Ours — Sugar
Island, etc 33-37
Trip through Georgian Bat and North Channel.- — Great
Manitoulin — Indians — Wequamekong — St. Joseph's Island —
Saut Ste Marie — Ship Canal — Upper Lake Country . . . 38-49
Trip from Collingwood to Mackinac, Green Bat, Chi-
cago, ETC. — Yeo Island and Fitzwilliam Island — Lake Hu-
ron— Straits of Mackinac — Mackinac — Potawatomee Island —
Green Bay — Astor — Appleton — Neenah — Oshkosh — Fond du
Lac — Lake Winnebago — Lake Superior Region 50-56
Trip from Saut Ste Marie to the Different Ports on
Lake Superior. — Iroquois Point — Tequamenon Bay — White
Fish Point — Pictured Rocks — Grand Island — Marquette —
Iron Region — Stanard's Rock — L'Ance — Portage Entry —
Portage Lake — Keweenaw Point — Copper Harbor — Agate
Harbor — Eagle Harbor — Ontonagon — Copper Region — La
Pointe — Bayfield — Ashland — Superior City — Fond du Lac —
VIU CONTENTS.
St. Louis River — Encampment — Grand Portage — Pigeon Bay
and River — =Islo Royale — Pie Island — Fort William — Kamin-
istequoi River — Neepigon Bay and River Page 57-82
RsD River of the North. — Pembina, etc 83, 84:
HiTDsojv Bay Company. — Charter and Territory — Hudson
Bay 85-91
North Shore, Lake Superior. — Ste Ignace Island — Slate
Islands — Pic Island and River— Michipicoten Island, Harbor,
and River — Caxnbou Island — Grand Pleasure Excursion 92, 93
Geology of La.ke Superior Country 94
Fisheries of Lake Superior 95, 96
Chicago. — Railroads — Progress of Chicago, etc 97-100
Ports of Lake Michigan, East and South Shores. — Mich-
igan City — New Buffalo — St. Joseph — St. Joseph River —
Niles, etc 101-102
Trip from Chicago to Mackinac and Saut Ste Marie. —
Lake Michigan — AVaukegan — Kenosha — Racine — IMilwaukee
— Port "Washington— Sheboygan — Manitouwoc — Two Rivers
— Kewaunee — Little and Great Manitou Islands — Fox Isl-
ands— Great and Little Beaver Islands — Garden and Hog
Islands — Mackinac, Town, Fortress, and Island — Bois Blanc
Island — Point De Tour — Drummond Island — St. Joseph Isl-
and— Lime Island — jNIud Lake — Sugar Island — Nebish Rap-
ids— Lake George — Church's Landing — Garden River Settle-
ment—St. Mary's River 103-117
Sunday on Lake Huron 118, 119
Table of Distances.
Route from Chicago to Mackinac and Saut Ste Marie . , . 120
Route from Saut Ste Marie to Detroit 121
Trip from Detroit to Mackinac and Saut Ste Marie. —
Lake St. Clair — Mt. Clemens — Chatham — Algonac — New-
port—St. Clair — Port Sarnia— Port Huron — Fort Gratiot —
Point Edward — Goderich— Saugeen — Lake Huron — Forrest-
ville— Saginaw Bay — Saginaw City— Thunder Bay— Presque
Isle — Mackinac, etc 122-127
Bays and Rivers, etc., of Lower Peninsula of Michigan.
— Lumber — Climate — Soil— Cheboygan River — Grand Trav-
erse Bay — River Aux Bees Sceis — Beaver Islands — Manistee
River — Pere Marquette River — White River — Muskegon River
— Newaygo— Grand Haven— Grand Rapids — Grand River
Pineries 128-133
Detroit. — Railroads — Detroit River — Islands — Fisheries —
Steamboat Routes, etc 134-140
CONTENTS. IX
Steamboat Routes from Detroit to Toledo, etc. — ^Wy-
andotte— Trenton — Monroe — Sandusky — Toledo— Perrysburg
— Maumee City Page 141-144
Trip from Buffalo to Detroit, direct. — Long Point —
Port Dover— Port Burwell — Port Stanley — Point aux Pins
— Point Pelee — Point Pelee Island — Detroit River — Am-
herstburg — Fort Maiden — Brownstown — Sandwich — Wind-
sor— Detroit 145-146
Steamers Running from Buffalo to Different Ports.
149
Railroad Route from Buffalo and Niagara Falls to
Detroit, via Great Western Railway of Canada. — Suspen-
sion Bridge — Thorold — St. Catherine's — Hamilton — Dundas
— ^Paris — Woodstock — London — Chatham — Windsor. 150-152
Buffalo to Goderich, via BuflFalo and Lake Huron Railway.
— Black Rock — Fort Erie — Dunnville — Brantford — Paris —
Stratford— Goderich 153-155
Table of Distances — from Buffalo to Toledo, etc 156
Trip from Buffalo to Cleveland, Sandusky, Toledo,
etc. — Sturgeon Point — Dunkirk — Barcelona — Erie — Conne-
aut — Ashtabula — Fairport — Painesville — Cleveland — •
Black River — Vermilion — Huron — Kelley's Island — Bass Isl-
ands— Put-in Bay — Naval Battle on Lake Erie .... 157-162
Railroad Route around Lake Erie. — Ohio River and Lake
Erie Canals 163
Opening of Navigation on Lake Erie, etc 164
Buffalo. — Trade and Commerce 165-170
Trip from Buffalo to Mackinac, Chicago, etc. — Lake
Erie — Huron, etc 171, 172
First Vessel which Navigated the Upper Lakes. —
Navigation of the Lakes 173-179
Magnitude of the Lakes 180, 181
Coast Line of the Great Lakes 182
Tributaries of the Lakes and St. Lawrence River
183
Extent of Lake and River Navigation, etc 184
List of Steamers Built on Lake Erie, etc. . . . 185-188
Proposed Ship Canal. — Lake Erie to Lake Michigan. 189, 190
Lake and Ocean Navigation 191, 192
Commerce of the Lakes 193-200
ADVERTISElSENTS.
IMEcKSriGHT'S
LAKE SUPERIOR LINE.
The Splendid Low Pressure Steamer ILLINOIS, (Japt. John
WilsojV, "will run the ensuing season between Cleveland, De-
troit, Saut Ste Marie, Superior City, and intermediate
ports on Lake Superior, as follows :
Leaves Cleveland at 7 o'clock p.m.
Tuesday May 5
Friday* "15
Tuesday " 26
Friday* June 5
Tuesday -'16
Friday* "26
Tuesday July 7
Friday* "17
Tuesday "28
Friday* August 7
Tuesday " 18
Friday* " 28
Tuesday Sept. 8
Friday* " 18
Tuesday " 29
Leaves Detroit 10 o'clock a m.
Wednesday May G
Saturday* ,. "*16
Wednesday "27
Saturday* June 6
Wednesday " 17
Saturday* "27
Wednesday July 8
Saturday* " 18
Wednesday " 29
Saturday* Aug. 8
Wednesday "19
Saturday* " 29
Wednesday Sept. 9
Saturday* " 19
Wednesday " 30
The days of leaving Cleveland and Detroit after Oct. 1st
will be irregular, but will be as near the above schedule as
weather will permit.
The ILLINOIS is a first-class upper-cabin Steamer, 1,000
tons burthen, fitted and furnished with spacious, airy state-
rooms, and all the modern improvements for safety and comfort.
Pleasure-seekers will find this route unrivaled for salubrity
of climate, beauty and variety of scenery ; while an opportunity
is afforded to visit the rich Iron Mines at Marquette, and the
unrivaled Copper Mines at Eagle River and Ontonagon.
E^^ Parties at a distance wishing to secure State-Kooms, can
do so by addressing the Subscriber,
S. Mcknight, Detroit.
In addition to Steamer Illinois, two first-class Propel-
lers are run in this line, carrying heavy freight, etc.
* Goes to ScPEEioR Cut. All othw trips terminate at Oxtonagon.
ADYERTISEMENTS.
THE STEADIER
IN'ORTEE ST^R
B. G. SWEET, Master,
Leaves Cieveland, as follows,
AT 8 o'clock p^.
Thursday April 30th
Monday May 11th
Thursday " 21st
Monday June 1st
Thursday " 11th
Monday " 22d
Thursday July 2d
Monday " 13th
Thursday " 23d
Monday Aug. 3d
Thursday " 13th
Monday " 24th
Thursday Sept. 3d
Monday '^ 14th
Thursday " 24th
Monday' Oct. 5th
Thursday "15th
Monday " 26th
Thursday Nov. 5th
Monday " 16th
Leaves Detboit, as follows,
AT 10 o'clock A.M.
Friday Mav 1st
Tuesday " 'l2th
Friday " 22d
Tuesd'ay June 2d
Friday " 12th
Tuesday " 23d
Friday July 3d
Tuesday " 14th
Friday " 24th
Tuesday Aug. 4th
Friday " 14th
Tuesday " 25th
Friday Sept. 4th
Tuesday " 15th
Friday " 25th
Tuesday Oct, 6th
Friday " 16th
Tuesday " 27th
Friday Nov. 6th
Tuesday " 17th
The XOETH STAE is not suepassed, in point of speed and accommo-
dations, by any boat on the Lakes. She is built for this particular trade,
is over 1,100 tons burthen, is fast, staunch, and new. She performs her
trips with surprising regularity, and is so well appointed and furnished as
to make her a PALAC£ HOME to the pleasure traveler.
The LAKE SUPERIOE EOUTE, in the Summer Season, is altogether
the most picturesque, healthful, and delightful to be found on the Ameri-
can Continent. It contains the grand, the beautiful, and the useful ; and
bids fair to be one of the most fashionable resorts in the Fnited States. It
includes in its circuit the Detroit, St. Clair, and St. Mary's Eivers ; Lakes
St. Clair, Huron, and Superior ; the beautiful Islands on the Eoute, the
Pictured Eocks, Marquette, Copper Harbor, Eagle Harbor, Eagle Eiver,
Ontonagon, La Pointe, and Superior City, besides many other localities of
great interest and attractive scenery.
To the invalid, the cool and bracing climate will be highly salubrious,
while sportsmen find the facilities for fishing and hunting oif the most invit-
ing character. The Copper and Iron Mines, the leading business interest of
this region, will always continue to attract the enterprising and scientific
to their vicinity, and the new and easj' communication by the Saut Ste
Marie Canal, have made the voyage one of uninterrupted comfort and
pleasure.
5^°^ Eooins secured for the round trip (time 8 davs, distance 2.000
miles), by addressing S. & A. TUEXEPv, Cleveland, O.
S. P. BEADY, and CEAGG & BEOTHEE. )
Agents, Detroit, Michigan. f
ADVERTISEMENTS.
7ZZ»arB ZiAZO'DS 1ST l^ICHiaAIT.
THE SAINT MAEY'S FALLS
I]i|} Canal Cnmpng
orr:BR for saziB
THEIR ENTIRE SELECTION OF
550,000 Acres of Pine and Farming Land
IN MICHiaAN.
These comprise some of tlie choicest and most desirable lands
in the West, either for settlement, as an investment, or for
lumbering purposes.
Unlike a considerable portion of the Pine Lands of the
country, these lands are valuable for farmijig purposes after
the timber is cut off. They Tvere selected with great care, with
particular reference to the quality and quantity of the Pine,
and their locality on the large streams of the State.
These lands are more favorably situated in reference to the
Chicago Market, than any other Western timber lands. Some
of the finest Pine timber is located within 16 miles of Lake
Michigan, with good water communication to the Lake, and
with but 150 miles of Lake navigation to Chicago.
Particular information given, and description of land fuf-
nished, on application to
GEO. S. FROST, Land Agent
Land Office St. Mary's Falls Ship Canal Co., V
Detroit, Mich ^.g an. S
RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTES.
STEAMBOAT AND EAILEOAD EOUTE FEOM NEW YOEK TO
MONTEEAL, ma LAKE CHAMPLAIN.
Stations, etc.
NEW YORK
Albany, (Steamer)
Troy, (Steamer)
Saratoga Springs, (Railroad)
Whitehall, (Railroad)
Ticonderoga, ( Steamer) . .
BURLI-VGTON, Vt. " . , .
Plattsburgh, N. Y. "
Rouse's Point, N. Y. "
St. John's, Can. (Railroad).
MONTREAL, (Railroad)...
Note. — This line of travel affords one of the most delightful
excursions during warm weather — passing through Lake Cham-
plain, a most lovely and picturesque sheet of water, surrounded
by romantic and mountainous scenery.
Miles.
0
Usual Time.
H. M.
145
10 00
151
10 30
182
223
14 00
247
300
325
20 00
350
24 00
374
395
26 00
EAILEOAJ) EOUTE FEOM NEW YOEK TO MONTEEAL, via
EUTLAND AND BUELINGTON, VT.
Stations, etc. Miles. ^T^m""^'
NEW YORK 0
Poughkeepsie 75 2 40
Albany 144 5 00
Trwy 150 5 15
North Bennington 182 6 30
Rutland 234 8 80
Middlebury 266 10 30
Burlington (S.toPlattsVh) 301 11 00
Rouse's Point 356 14 00
St. John's, C. E 379 15 00
MONTREAL 400 16 00
Usual Fare from New York to Montreal, $9 to $10 50.
9.
14 RAILROAD AND STEAMBt AT ROUTES.
EAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT EOTTTE FEOM NEW TOEK TO
NIAGAEA FALLS AND TOEONTO, C. W., LEAVING
NEW YOEK AT 6 P.M. BY STEAMEE.
oi *• * n/T-i^ Usual Time.
Stations, etc. Miles. ^ ^
NEW YORK 0
Albany, ( Steamer) 145 12 00
Schenectady, {Railroad) ... 162 13 00
Utica, " 240 16 00
Rome, « 254 16 30
Syracuse, " 293 18 00
'B.oc-a^sT^-R, {St. to Toronto) 374 22 45
Lockport, {Railroad)... 430 25 00
Suspension Bridge, " ... 448 26 00
Lewiston, " ... 452
TORONTO, {Steamer) 494 30 00
EAILEOAD AND STEAIMBOAT EOUTE FEOM NEW YOEK TO
OSWEGO, TOEONTO, ETC., LEAVING NEW YOEK
AT 6 A.M. BY HUDSON EIVEE EAILEOAD.
Stations, etc.
NEW YORK.
Miles.
0
usual xiu
H. M.
Poughkeepsie,
Hudson,
{Railroad) . . .
cc
(C
^i
<(
((
C(
cc
mmer 140 i7i.) .
'teatner 150 m.)
75
2 40
116
4 00
Albany,
Schenectady,
Utica,
144
162
5 00
6 00
240
8 30
Rome,
254
9 00
Syracuse,
Oswego,
293
10 30
328
13 00
Lewiston, {Sti
TORONTO, (5
468
478
27 00
Note. — Passengers by continuing on by Railroad from Syra-
cuse, via Rochester and Lockport, will arrive at Suspension
Bridge, 448 miles, in sixteen hours after leaving New York,
stop at Niagara Falls if desired, and reach Toronto by Rail-
road, via Hamilton, C. W., 81 miles farther; making the total
distance from New York to Toronto by Railroad, via Suspen-
sion Bridge, 529 miles.
\
RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTES.
15
EAELEOAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTE FPwOM TORONTO TO
COLLINGWOOD AND SAUT STE MAEIE, MICH.
ToRoifTO TO CoLLiNGwooD {Railroad Route), 94 miles.
Steamboat Route.
(Collingwood to Saut Ste Marie, Mich., passing through Geor-
gian Bay and North Channel. )
Ports, etc. Miles.
COLLIJVGWOOD 0
Cape Rich 30
Cabot's Head 80
Lonely Island 100
Cape Smyth 125
She-ba-wa-nah-Jiing . . . . 145
Man-i-tou-"R^ah-ning (25 m.)
Little Current, ^
Great Manitoulin Is. 5
Clapperton Island 190
Barrie Island 220
Cockburn Island 255
Drummond's Island, iNIich. 270
Bruce Mines, C. TV. 290
St. Joseph Island 296
Campement D'Ours Is. . . . 302
The Narrows 305
Sugar Island, Mich 315
Nebish Rapids 316
Lake George 320
Churches Landing 326
Garden Rirer Set 330
Saitt Ste Marie 340
Steamboat Fare, $8 50.
Including meals.
Ports, etc. Miles.
Saut Ste Marie 0
Sugar Island 4
Garden River Set 10
Churches Landing 14
Lake George 20
Nebish Rapids 24
St. Joseph Island 25
The Narrows 35
Campement D'Ours Is ... . 38
Bruce Mines 50
Drummond's Island, Mich. 70
Cockburn Island, C. W. . . 85
Barrie Island 120
Clapperton Island 150
Little Current, ^
Great Manitoulin Is. 5
Man-i-tou--w"ah-ning;25 m.)
She-ba-wa-nah-ning . . . . 195
Cape Smyth 215
Lonely Island 240
Cabot's Head 260
Cape Rich 310
COLLIXGWOOD 340
Usual Time, 36 hours.
170
lei,
Note. — Landings in Italic.
ec
16 RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTES.
STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM SAUT STE MARIE TO SUPERIOR
CITY, WIS., PAS3IXG ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE OF
LAKE SUPERIOR.
Ports, etc. Miles. Ports, etc. Miles.
SAtTT Ste Marie 0 Superior City 0
Point Iroquois 15 Point de Tour 70
White Fish Point 40 Bayfield 80
Point au Sable 90 La Pointe 83
Pictured Rocks 110 Ontonagon 158
Grand Island 125 Eagle River 218
Marquette, (Fare, S6.) . . 170 Eagle Harbor 228
Manitou Island 235 Copper Harbor 244
Copper Harbor 250 Manitou Island 259
Eagle Harbor 266 Marquette 824
Eagle River 276 Grand Island 369
Ontonagon, (Fare, $9.) . 336 Pictured Rocks 384
La Pointe, (Fare, $11) . . 410 Point au Sable 404
Bayfield 414 White Fish Point 454
Point de Tour 424 Point Iroquois 479
Superior CiTY(Fare S13) 494 Saut Ste Marie 494
Usual Time from Saut Ste Marie to Superior City, 54 hours,
including landings.
ROUTE FROM NEW YORK TO THE FALLS OF ST. ANTHONY,
via LAKE SUPERIOR.
Stopping Places. Total Miles. Usual Time.
New York to Albany, by ( Steainboat) . . 145 12 hours.
Albany to Niagara Falls, (Railroad) .... 303 448 1 day.
Niagara Falls to Toronto, {R.R. and St.) 46-494 li "
Toronto to Collingwood. (Railroad) 94-588 li- "
Collingwood to Saut Ste Marie, (.Sfeo?.>26oaO 340-928 3" "
Saut Ste Marie to La Pointe, ( Steamboat) 350-1,278 4^ "
La Pointe to Superior City, (Steamboat) . 84-1,362 5' "
Superior City to Falls St. Croix, (Portage) 120-1,482 8 "
Falls St Croix to StiUwater, ( S^eamftoaO 30-1,512
Stniwater to St. Paul, ( Stage) 18-1,530
St. Paul to Falls of St. Anthony, (Stage) 8-1,538 9 "
From the Falls of St. A7ithony to Dubuque 326 miles.
" Dubuque to iS^. Louis, (Steamboat) 474 "
Total 800 mil
A TRIP
THEOITGH THE
LAKES OF ^^ORTH AMERICA.
RAILROAD ROUTE FROM TOROXTO TO COLLIXG-
WOOD, AND TRIP AROUND LAKE SIMCO'-.
After passing over the
delightful and usually-
smooth waters of Lake On-
tario, the Tourist, on ap-
proaching Toronto, either
from Cape Vincent, Os-
wego, Rochester, Buffalo,
or the Falls of Xiagara, usually experiences sensations
which incite him to further travel and enjoyment. From this
place the tourist can proceed direct to Montreal and Quebec, by
railroad or steamer, or to Hamilton and Detroit on the west —
while the Collingwood route extends north through a beautiful
section of country.
2*
\j TORONTO TO COLLINGWOOD, ETC.
On landing at Toronto from American ports, it is usual for
the custom-house officers to question passengers in regard to the
contents of their baggage, which if it consists of nothing but
common "wearing apparel, is passed without further delay, and
the porters take charge of the same, delivering the articles as
directed. All persons, however, taking into Canada manufac-
tured goods, whether subject to pay duty or otherwise, are ex-
pected to enter the same at the custom-house.
The hotels are principally situated on Front Street, facing
the bay, Church Street, or King Street, the latter being the
principal promenade, or Broadway, of Toronto. Yonge Street
is another principal thoroughfare, extending from the Espla-
nade, or water's edge, for many miles into the interior, affording
a delightful drive in pleasant weather. The attractions of this
thriving city, in connection with the beautiful bay and harbor,
are well worthy the attention of the tourist. For a further de-
scription of Toronto, see page 240.
The railroads diverging from Toronto are the Ontario, Sim-
coe and Huron Railroad, extending north to Collingwood, 94
miles ; the Grand Trunk Railnay, extending northeast to
Montreal and Quebec, and west through Guelph to Port Sarnia,
situated at the foot of Lake Huron, and the Hamilton and
Toronto Branch of the Great Western Railway of Canada, run-
ning from Clifton at the Suspension Bridge, to Hamilton, and
thence through to Windsor, on the Detroit River. These rail-
roads, in connection with the steamers, render Toronto a great
thoroughfare and mart of commerce. It now takes about
thirty hours to reach Toronto from New York ; five hours from
Buffalo, and only twelve hours from Montreal, since the com-
pletion of the Grand Trunk Railway : the favorite steamboat
route down the St. Lawrence River consumes about twice as
much time. In four hours more the traveler can be landed at
Collingwood, at the head of Georgian Bay, from whence steam-
ers leave almost daily, during the season of navigation, for
Mackinac, Green Bay, Chicago, Saut Ste Marie, and other ports
on the Upper Lakes.
TORONTO TO COLLINGWOOD, ETC. 19
Passenger trains leave Toronto morning and afternoon for
Collingwood, etc., starting from the depot near the corner of
Front and Bay Streets. The first objects of interest passed are
the Parliament House, University Building, Lunatic Asylum,
the Barraoks, and Old Fort,* the latter being situated near the
water's edge, for the protection of the bay and harbor.
The Grand Trunk Ptailway also runs for two or three miles
parallel with the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron Railroad. The
farming land through which the latter road runs is very pro-
ductive, being in part heavily timbered with maple, birch,
beech, oak, elm, pine, and hemlock. For many miles there
seems to have been a studied eflfort to avoid the villages and
thriving settlements lying west of Toronto on Yonge Street road.
Thorxhill Station", 14 miles from Toronto, is located four
miles west from the village, which is situated on Yonge Street.
Here are extensive flouring-mills, propelled by water-power de-
rived from the river Don, flowing into Toronto Bay.
The highest summit of the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron Kail-
road, being 700 feet above Lake Ontario, and 226 feet above the
level of Lake Simcoe, is passed about 25 miles north of Toronto.
The highest grade ascending is sixty feet to the mile.
Attrora, 29 miles from Toronto, is a small village situated
on Yonge Street, where the morning trains usually meet on their
way to and from Collingwood.
New Market, 34 miles from Toronto, is an old and thriving
town, surrounded by a fine section of country. Here are sev-
eral mills and other manufacturing establishments, situated on
a stream which passes through the village, flowing into Lake
Simcoe on the north. Fruit of different kinds, of fine quality,
as well as grain, is raised in large quantities in this vicinity.
H0L1.AXD Landing, 38 miles north of Toronto by railroad, is
* The Old Garrison, as it is now called, is situated on the lake shore,
commanding the entrance to the harbor. On the capture of Toronto,
formerly called Little York, by the American army in 1S13, the magazine
cf the fort was fired by the British on their retreat, causing the death of
General Pike, the American commander, and many other valuable men.
Long may it be before the scourge of war again desolates the frontier bor-
dering the waters of the lakes or the St. Lawrence Eiver.
20 TORONTO TO COLLINGWOLD, ETC.
advantageoiisly situated on Holland River, "which empties into
Lake Simcoe. It contains an Episcopal, Presbyterian, and
Methodist church ; steam and water power, grist and saw mills,
an extensive tannery, a foundry, and about 1,500 inhabit-
ants. The railway here again intersects Yonge Street, studded
with fine dwellings, orchards, and farms, all the way through
from Toronto, 36 miles, bearing evidence of wealth, intelligence,
and comfort, not surpassed by any other section of Canada.
Bradford, 42 miles from Toronto, is a small village situated
near Lake Simcoe. The afternoon train of cars meets at this
station on its way to and from Toronto. Large quantities of
wheat and other farming products are annually sent from this
place to Toronto, and other markets.
Bell Ewart, 53 miles from Toronto, is situated on Cook's
Bay, lying at the south end of Lake Simcoe. Here are a con-
venient steamboat landing, several stores and lumber yards, and
a population of some 300 or 400 inhabitants. The stumps and
decayed trees by which it is surrounded indicate that it is of
recent origin, yet still the town-lots are held at a high price,
showing that speculation is not entirely confined to the Yankees,
as the Americans are here usually called.
During the summer of 1856 the author accepted an invita-
tion to visit Lake Simcoe, and take a trip over its lovely waters,
now plowed by one of the most comfortable steamers, named
the J. C. Morrison, in honor of the President of the Ontario,
Simcoe and Huron Railroad. This pioneer work of Upper
Canada was first advocated and commenced through the untir-
ing zeal of an enterprising citizen of Toronto, now entirely dis-
connected with its present management.
The running of the trains on the above road, and the steamer
on the lake, is so arranged that pleasure travelers can leave
Toronto in the morning, enjoy a most delightful sail around
Lake Simcoe, and return to Toronto in the evening, or proceed
onward toward Collingwood, reaching the latter place in ample
time for the steamer for the Saut Ste Marie, which usually
leaves soon after the arrival of the evening train.
LAKE SIMCOE.
21
The beautiful steamer J. C. MoRRiiox dally
leaves Bell Ewart, on the arrival of the morning
train from Toronto, making a trip around Lake
SiMCOE, a most lovely and pure sheet of Tvater,
elevated 474 feet above Lake Ontario and 134
feet above Lake Huron. It is about 40 miles
long from north to south, and 25 miles wide, embosoming several
picturesque islands, the beauties of which are very much height-
ened by the effects of light and shade during the summer and
autumn months. This romantic lake is elevated above Lake
Superior about 100 feet; its surplus waters running through
the Severn River into Georgian Bay or Lake Huron.
On leaving the landing in Cook's Bay, the steamer usually
runs between Bird and Snake Islands, both being owned and
inhabited by Indians of the Mohawk tribe, who here lead an
idle life, neglecting the noble pursuit of agriculture for the less
certain employment of fishing and hunting.
Jackson's Point, twelve miles from Bell Ewart, is the first
landing usually made on the upward trip. This is a pictu-
resque spot, as yet unimproved, although affording a con-
venient steamboat landing.
Georgiana Island, eight miles farther, is next passed, lying
on the east, near the main shore. This is a large and fertile
island, at present unimproved.
Beaverton, 29 miles from Bell Ewart and 21 miles distant
from Orillia, is a flourishing village, containing about 1.000 in-
habitants. Here is a long pier and good steamboat landing.
A railroad, to be built, extending from Port Hope, lying on the
north shore of Lake Ontario, to Lake Simcoe, will terminate at
22 LAKE SIMCOE
Beaverton, which is surrounded Tby a fine section of agi'icultural
lands, producing wheat and other kinds of grain of good quality.
Thora Island is next passed on the west, and Point Mora
on the right, running in a N. W. direction toward the foot of the
lake, which here increases in beauty.
Grape Island, lying near the foot of the lake, is a beautiful
small uninhabited island ; and near by on the west lies Chief
Island, occupied by Indians. Here the islands and headlands
appear to great advantage, being clothed with rich foliage,
varied in tint by every passing cloud.
Atherly, 18 miles from Beaverton, is a steamboat landing
and small settlement at the foot of Lake Simcoe. Half a mile
below Atherly the steamer passes through a narrow channel
and draw- bridge into Lake Couchiching, or Severn River, here
some three or four miles wide, containing several beautiful
small islands, where may usually be seen the Indians in bark
canoes gliding from island to island, seeming in the distance to
resemble fairies of by-gone days. The islands may be thus
described :
" All the fairy crowds
Of islands, which together lie,
As quietly as the spots of sky,
Among the evening clouds."
Orillia, Simcoe Co., C. W., is pleasantly situated three
miles beyond Atherly by steamboat route. This is a summer
resort for invalids and seekers of pleasure. The village con-
tains two churches, three hotels, and several boarding-houses
for the accommodation of visitors. Population about 800.
This place is destined no doubt to become a favorite and fashion-
able resort, being easily reached from Toronto or Collingwood.
Rama is the name of an Indian village situated across the
lake from Orillia, about four miles distant. The Indians may
here be seen engaged in fishing, or paddling from place to place,
many of them leading a roving and idle life, no doubt being
destined soon to fade away as the falling leaf of autumn.
The Rapids or Falls commence in the Severn River some
seven or eight miles below; Orillia, which stream empties into
TORONTO TO COLLINGWOOD, ETC. 23
the Georgian Bay near Penetanguishene, after a succession of
rapids and falls of 134 feet descent. In the lake and river are
to be found good fishing, and game of different kinds, affording
ample amusement to the angler and sportsman.
On returning from Orillia, the steamer runs in a southerly
direction along the west shore of the lake, presenting a succes-
sion of picturesque headlands, and most beautiful water scenery.
Hawkstone, 15 miles south of Orillia, is a new settlement,
where buildings are being erected for the accommodation of
summer visitors. On leaving Hawkstone the steamer runs
direct for Bell Ewart, passing the mouth of Kempenfeldt Bay,
at the head of which lies the town of Barrie. Big Bay Point,
eight miles from Hawkstone, is next passed, and the steamer
soon enters Cook's Bay, on which is situated Bell Ewart, 33
miles south of Orillia. The steamer usually arrives at 5 J p.m.,
in time to take the afternoon cars for Collingwood or Toronto,
thus affording the pleasure traveler an opportunity to visit one
of the most beautiful lakes of Canada.
At Lefroy, one mile from Bell Ewart by branch road, and
52 miles from Toronto, the journey by railroad is resumed.
Barrik Station, 63 miles from Toronto and 31 miles from
Collingwood, is situated on Kempenfeldt Bay, directly opposite
the town of Barrie, about one mile distant, which is reached by
a road running round the head of the bay, affording a fine view
of the town and surrounding country.
Barrie, the capital of Simcoe Co., is delightfully situated
on the northwest shore of Kempenfeldt Bay of Lake Simcoe.
Besides the county buildings there is a handsome market-house,
an Episcopal, Presbyterian, INIethodist, and Roman Catholic
church ; also, two or three well-kept hotels. The village con-
tains about 1,500 inhabitants, being surrounded by a fine agri-
cultural country. A stage road runs from Barrie to Penetan-
guishene, 32 miles ; also, to Orillia, at the foot of the lake.
After leaving Barrie Station, the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron
Railroad runs in a northwest direction to Collingwood, passing
24 TORONTO TO l ^LLINGWOOD, ETC.
through a level section of country, abounding in lumber of dif-
ferent kinds ; thare being several large lumber establishments
on the line of thf road.
CoLLi-VGwooD, 94 miles north from Toronto, is most advanta-
geously situated near the head of Nottawassaga Bay, an inden-
tation of Georgian Bay. The town, although commenced in
1854, at the time of the completion of the Ontario, Simcoe and
Huron Railroad, now contains (1857) about 2.000 inhabitants,
and is rapidly increasing. The surprising growth is mainly
owing to its being the northern terminiis of the railway which
connects the Georgian Bay with Lake Ontario at Toronto.
Great numbers of travelers and emigrants are at this point
transferred to magnificent steamers, bound for Mackinac, Green
Bay, Chicago, and the Great West, as well as to the Saut Ste
Marie and Lake Superior, Here are a long pier, 800 feet in
length ; a breakwater, and light-house ; several large stores and
storehouses ; four hotels, and two or three churches in the
course of erection.
The steamers leaving Collingwood for ^Mackinac and Chicago,
running along the west shore of Lake Michigan, are of a large
class, affording good accommodations for pleasure travelers. A
steamer leaves weekly for Green Bay, sometimes proceeding to
the Saut Ste IMarie and into Lake Superior. The steamer
Canadian runs every day to Owen's Sound, 50 miles distant ;
and the steamer Collingwood runs weekly to Bruce Mines and
the Saut Ste Marie, affording a delightful steamboat excursion.
Immense quantities of fish are taken in the waters of Notta-
wassaga Bay, being principally carried to the Toronto market.
The whole north shore of the Georgian Bay abounds in white
fish, salmon, trout, maskalonge, and other fish of fine quality,
affording profitable employment to the Canadians and Indians.
" Some idea of the value and extent of the fishing operations
promiscuously pursued in Nottawassaga Bay may be formed
from the knowledge that the average daily take exceeds one
thousand fish, weighing from forty pounds down to one pound
At this rate, that of the season would not fall short of £40,000.
At the mouth of the Nottawassaga River the white fish are
netted in perfect shoals throughout the spawning season. Most
of the larger kinds of trout spawn about the islands, upon beds
of calcareous rock, over which a shifting drift of sand or gravel
passes by the action of the waves, where the water is shallow ;
and from being exposed to the sun, the temperature of the lake
is warmer at these localities than elsewhere. Thither the
fishermen resort, and net the fish, vapid and placid as they are,
in fabulous amounts."
GEORGIAN BAY CANAL. 25
THE TOEONTO AOT) GEOEGIAN BAT CANAL.
This is a new and noble project, whicli is now interesting the
citizens of Upper Canada, as well as of the United States :
Toronto and Oswego being alike interested in connection with
the far North and West. The proposed canal will be 80 miles
long, extending from Nottawassaga Bay through the valley of
the Nottawassaga and Hnmber rivers to Toronto, advantage-
ously situated on the north shore of Lake Ontario. The sum-
mit is 650 feet above the waters of Lake Ontario, requiring a
succession of locks in the ascent and descent to Georgian Bay,
the latter descent being only 310 feet — Lake Ontario lying 340
feet below Lake Huron, or Georgian Bay.
{Extract from the Toeonto Globe, of Septemfjer, 1S56.)
" The geographical position of the projected canal, as it re-
gards the Atlantic sea-board and those cities of the United States,
each now striving to grasp the trade and traflfic of the great
West (and as it regards the great West; itself, the northwest and
the north), would give to the city of Toronto the power to m-ake
all those vast countries, in a measure, tributary to her. Their
productions would seek the sea-board through your canal, and
their importations would likewise pay their tribute in return."
The writer adds : " He wished only to indulge in a few re-
marks, and to call attention, not to the United States alone, but
to the British Possessions in America, which ere long would
also be pouring its flood of trade and traf&c through the pro-
posed canal. Westward, we possess vast and fertile countries,
adapted to all the pursuits of agricultural life — countries sus-
ceptible of the highest cultivation and improvement. Between
Lake Superior and the Lake of the Woods (above the 49th de-
gree of N. lat.) we possess a country of this description, in soil
and character inferior to no part of Minnesota, and bordering
upon tliis territory lies the valley of the Assiniboine, or the Red
River country, as it is sometimes called. As a wheat-growing
country it will rival Canada. It does so now in soil and climate.
Li order to give you some idea of the extent of that country, or,
perhaps I should say, portion of Western Canada, I will call
your attention to a few facts. All Canada, as now usually
designated, not in connection with what is termed Hudson Bay
Territories, contains about 350,000 square miles. The valley
of the Assiniboine contains about as many square miles, and is
intersected in every direction by navigable rivers. Beyond
this, again, lies the magnificent valley of the Saskatchawan-
3
26 GEORGIAN BAY CA:s-^
It contains about 400,000 square miles, larger again .
"Over the richest prairie lands, loaded carts now pass m any
direction for hundreds of miles, to the foot of the Rocky Moun-
tains In its present wild and unciiltivated state it affords
sustenance to immense herds of wild cattle. What would it do
if cultivated bv the hand of man ? The future products of these
immense countries must seek the sea-board, and all the canals
and railroads which can be constructed will scarce sufcce to
afford facilities for the products of the West. He wished to call
their attention also to another source, whence a trade wouid
arise, and contribute to swell the traffic along the canal Hud-
son Bay would give to Canada a sea-coast of 3,000 miles. iNo
maritime power has ever possessed so great a nur.-^ery for a mer-
cantile navy as this. It abounds with whales, and every kind
of fish : and, strange as it may appear, that great sea lies, as it
were, in the center of Canada. From the proposed terminus of
the canal it is about 650 miles, 350 miles of which is a naviga-
tion capable of bearing ships of any burden ; from Lake feupe-
rior to Hudson Bay is 300 miles. If the route between Lake
Superior and Hudson Bay was open and improved they would
speedily establish fisheries along the coasts of that bay. ine
oil and fish now consumed in those states is immense, and they
Tvill be furnished them from Hudson Bay cheaper and more
speedily than from the source they now receive them A trade
like this Avill sooner or later spring up, and create along Hud-
son Bay an immense demand for all those manufactures and
productions which the United States can supply, and these
must find their way through their canal. A large trade at this
moment is had along that bay.* The Hudson Bay Company,
who have seven forts there, and o^e above^ lork Factory , re-
ceive annual supplies to the amount of from £ / 0,000 to £90,000
Many of these goods, perhaps, are of that description which
Toronto merchants could supply with advantage. To the trattic
which must exist all along the shores of Lakes Huron and fcu-
Derior I make no allusion. It is evident to all that it must be
tributary to the canal. It may be said that all that I liave
alluded to as regards the traffic to arise from our country is tar
in prospective, but there is no reason why we should not pro-
gress and advance westward as do the United States.
* « The Hudson Bay Company have long endeavored Iby rewards ami
ar<^umonts to excite an exportation of tallow, hides, wool, etc., to Jbnj-
lanrbut the bulky nature of the exports, the long and da°|er«"«^7^:
Imtion to Hudson Bay, and the habits of the half-breed race, who form the
ifaTo the people and gencrallyprefer chasing the buffalo to agnculmr^
or regular industry, have rendered their efforts meffectual."-K. Mont-
GOMEKV MaETIN.
TPJP FRO)I OPJLLIA TO GEUPGIAN ,AL
Extract from the Caxapiak Toueist.
From Orillia, situated near the foot of Lake Simcoe, the
author with his companions, four in number, passed in two
birch canoes down the Severn, a distance of about 60 miles, to
Georgian Bay, and thence to Collingwood by steamer. The
river is navigable only for canoes, and, except by sportsmen, is
as yet rarely visited.
" In our eyes, its solitary character and the romantic scenery
on its banks were its principal attractions. Having reduced
our lug-o-afife to the smallest possible dimensions, and put our
fishing-tackle into good order, it only remained tor us to make
ourselves comfortable by spreading a quantity of plucked fern
and juniper branches at the bottom of our canoes. We re-
reclined sumptuously in one, with about as much accommoda-
tion as a ship's hammock would aiford two moderately stout
individuals. However, as we were less likely to be upset by
being so closely jammed together that we could scarcely move,
we became reconciled to our position between Bonaquum
(' Thunderbolt'), who knelt at the bows and paddled, and his
brother Kabeshquum (' Triumphant'), who steered. The other
canoe contained Captain A — — , whose experience in such expe-
ditions, and knowledge of Indian character and language, were
most valuable — and Babehwum (' Snow-Storm'), whose son, as
an exemplification of the effect of civilization over the elements,
called himself simply John Storm. As the wind was fair, we
rigged our blankets upon sticks cut for the purpose; and, with
all sail set, we glided rapidly on (through the lovely waters of
Lake Couchiching), sometimes threading our way through nar-
row channels, past low- wooded islands, \mtil in about two hours
we found ourselves upon the green waters of the Severn.
" The scenery at the point of debouchure was vei-y beautiful.
jNIasses of rich variegated foliage clothed the banks, and bent
over until the river rippled among the leaves. Often dark
shadows reached across it, or were checkered by sunbeams
glancing through the branches upon the clear and singularly
light-colored water. As we proceeded, we exchanged for the
cabn surface of the lake, and the islands which seemed to rest
on its bosom, rock and rapid, until at last the torrent became
too tumultuous for our frail canoes. Meantime, we had not
been engaged only in enjoying the beauties of nature, we had
28 ORILLIA TO GEORGIAN BAY.
adopted the usual mode of trolling in tkis part of the world,
"with copper spoons, which, twisting rapidly through the water,
formed a bright and attractive bait ; so that, upon arriving at
the first portage, we congratulated ourselves upon the prospect
of lunching off half-a-dozen black bass weighing from two to
five pounds each ; while the Indians were engaged in culinary
preparations.
" We were up before daylight on the following morning, and,
after a good fish breakfast, were again on our way. I had
scarcely thrown my trolling-line, when it was nearly jerked
out of my hand by a most unexpected and violent tug. A bark
canoe is not the most convenient place from which to play a
large fish ; and, in my inexperienced eagerness, I hauled away
pretty steadily, bringing to the surface with some diificulty a
fine maskalonge, weighing at least twenty-five pounds. He
came splashing and plunging up to the side of the canoe, and I
had lifted him out of water, when the hook gave way, and I
lost as fine a fish as I ever had at the end of a line. However,
I was consoled soon after by taking some fine pickerel, weigh-
ing from five to eight pounds each; and, before luncheon,
hooked another maskalonge, when my companion, profiting by
experience, was ready with his gaff-hook, and jerked him most
scientifically into the canoe, much to the delight of the Indians.
Though not so lai'ge as the first, he was a respectable fish,
weighing about eighteen pounds. The scenery in the place
was bold and rocky, the banks often lofty and precipitous, and
the current always strong, vrith. an occasional rapid. We
lunched at a portage, which we were obliged to make in order
to avoid the falls of the Severn, which are here about twenty-
five feet in height, and surrounded by fine scenery. There are
rapids above and below the falls, so that the difference of level
between the upper and lower banks of the portage is not less
than fifty feet."
We regret that we can not make room for more extracts from
these iuteresting " Notes on Canada and the Northwest States,"
but we do the next best thing by recommending the articles
themselves to the perusal of our readers.
The above trip affords a favorable opportunity to visit Pene-
tanguishene and the " Million Islands" of Georgian Bay.
Penetanguishene, C. W., 50 miles north of Collingwood
by steamboat route, situated on a lovely and secure bay, is an
old and very important settlement, comprising an Episcopal
and Roman Catholic church, two hotels, a custom-house, seve-
ORILLIA TO GEORGIAN BAY. 29
ral stores and storehouses, and has about 500 inhabitants. In
the immediate vicinity is a nayal and military depot and bar-
racks, established by the British government. The natural
beauties of the bay and harbor, combined with the picturesque
scenery of the shores, make up a picture of rare beauty. Here
may be seen the native Indian, the half-breed, and the Canadian
voyageur, with the full-blooded Englishman or Scotchman,
forming one community. This place, being near the mouth of
the river Severn, and contiguous to the numberless islands of
Georgian Bay, is no doubt destined to become a favorite resort
for the angler and sportsman, as well as the invalid and seeker
of pleasure.
Christian- Island, lying about 25 miles from Penetangui-
shene, and 25 miles N. E. of Cape Rich, is a large and fertile
island, which was early settled by the Jesuits. There are sev-
eral others passed north of Christian Island, of great beauty,
while still farther northwest are encountered innumerable
islands and islets, forming labyrinths, and secluded passages
and coves as yet almost unknown to the white man, extending
westward for upward of one hundred roiles.
ISLANDS OX NOETH SHORE, GEORGIAN BAT.
Extract from Letters from the North wad Lake Huron.
She-ba-wa-nah-ioxg, Georgian Bat, C. TV., )
August 16, 1856. j
" Among the regions of the continent interesting to the
traveler, and which are not frequently visited, is the north
shore of Georgian Bay. Leaving Penetanguishene we crossed
to the mouth of the river JMushkoss, a distance of about eighteen
miles. From this place we proceeded up the shore in a small
boat, making daily such journeys as suited, and lingering when-
ever we found an interest to repay.
" The Mushkoss is one of the lumber points on the bay. It
is approached through a strip of numerous islands seven miles
in width, and it is the first inhabited place on the shore above
the mouth of the Severn. Here, as at the Severn, the only
thing to attract a habitation is the lumber, which only receives
attention. But one almost wonders, when he sees the country.
30 ORILLIA TO GEORGIAN BAY.
■where the lumber comes from., for the rock here again appears,
and holds a dominion forever beyond the hopes of man to see
subdued. The rock is throughout the country. It stands boldly
along the shore, and forms the islands, sustains the water, and
its bare surface appears everywhere. Yet the country has a
vegetation which covers it with verdure. Bushes, wild flowers,
and pine spring up everywhere, where a little earth has drifted
and found a lodgment. Pine is almost the only timber, and we
daily saw it growing in places so barren, that it seemed as if no
vegetation could be sustained either in nuti-ition or uprightness
of position. Some dwarfed oaks may be seen, and, perhaps,
occasionally some birch. The pine which is sawed into lumber
is cut a distance back, along the banks of the river, and is then
drifted down. It is inferior in size to that of more southern
regions, and, we believe, by no means has so good an average
soundness of quality.
" The Mushkoss is a stream of moderate size, but sends a
large division to the bay, to the westward, which diverges many
miles above. The river, in the interior country, expands into
lakes or pools, some of which are large and filled with numer-
ous islands. This, with a dark-colored water, is characteristic
of many of the streams which come down from the north.
Even small streams sometimes form a small chain of numerous
lakes, extending a great distance back. It is up these streams
and around these lakes that many of the Indians find their
hunting-grounds for the winter ; sometimes going almost to the
divide, beyond which the waters flow into Hudson Bay. They
go in the fall, and return in the spring with furs, which fall
into the hands of the Hudson Bay Company, or those of the
various traders along the coast, and are paid for in goods at a
large profit.
" Proceeding westward the traveler encounters a maze of
innumerable islands, which commences at the eastern extremity
of the bay, and continues in an almost unbroken stretch for one
hundred miles and upward. There are myriads of them, and
we have counted over fifty from a single stand-point. They are
mostly small, although some of them are of large size. One
may wander industriously amid them for months, and find new
scenes to gladden his eyes every day, for the chain has a breadth
of many miles. Countless channels run between them, many
of which are sufficiently deep and clear for- the largest vessels
of the lakes. There are numerous small bays, and the chan-
nels sometimes have a considerable width ; and, now and then,
one runs a distance of ten and twenty miles with scarcely an
interruption. It is almost impossible to tell when you approach
the mainland. One may think himself upon it when he is miles
away, or may pursue some lagoon projecting deep into it, when
ORILLIA TO GEORGIAN BAY. 31
he supposes himself treading on an island channel, and at last
be obliged to return.
" One is earnestly told before he starts, by those who have
been on this shore, that if he w jiild take his course through
the islands, he must have a guide ; and certainly without, the
stranger can not be sure of great expedition. We were for-
tunaie enough to have Bayfield's chart along, which we found
a great help, although no attempt is, or could successfully be,
made to chart in detail the interminable labyrinth of islands.
" The better way for one coasting thus is to take a course
through the outer edge of the islands, keeping the broad waters
in view. A certain guide and a cool, bracing atmosphere are
thus obtained, while the splendor of its scenery is almost un-
rivaled. Along the islands and next to the bay are numerous
anl wide shoals. The rock floor, sometimes level and again
broken, can often be seen through the clear water for a long
distance. To the west the islands grow less numerous and the
water between them wider, until you approach She-ba-wa-nah-
ning, when the chain draws to a close. Islands after this are
numerous, but may mostly be traced upon the chart. The
islands have the same vegetation and the same physical con-
formation as the mainland.
" The course of the shore seems much nearer north and west,
until you arrive at the French River, when it runs nearly west.
The rock is continuous the whole distance. It is chiefly gran-
ite, but sandstone appears in considerable quantity this side of
the French River. The rock attains at times considerable height
and boldness, and as you near She-ba-wa-nah-ning, it sometimes
rises into grandeur. Here a mountain chain hangs along the
coast, standing up against the sky like a large blue cloud.
Between this and the water are a few acres of tillable land,
yet none is under cultivation save a very little which is mowed.
Indeed, farming is a business which is not thought of on the
north side Georgian Bay, even by the few white inhabitants scat-
tered there. There may be a patch of a few acres now and
then along the shore which might be cultivated, but we saw
scarcely any. But there are probably some sections where a
little may be found, for the Indians find somewhere here the
maple for the manufacture of sugar. They told us that it is
near the mouth of French River, on the east side, and that they
there raise some potatoes and corn. But we believe that the
shore can never be even sparingly settled. At some points
there may be tillable lands a considerable distance back. Yet
there are no indications of it along the shore. A large grant
of land, we are informed, has been obtained to construct a rail-
road from the Ottawa to some point near the mouth of the
French River on the bay
32
COLLTSGWOOD TO THE SAUT STE MARIE.
" The timber observed as far as She-ba-wa-nali-ning is almost
entirely pine. One is almost surprised at the constancy of it.
Some spruce, tamarac, birch, and poplar are seen, however,
and probably cedar may be found also. The juniper shi-ub is
abundant, and often very productive. There are exhaustless
quantities of whortleberries, and as fine as the world anywhere
pi'oduces. We hardly landed at a place where they were not
plenty. Wild, red cherries, currants, gooseberries, raspberries,
blackberries, and cranberries are frequently met with in con-
siderable quantities. Such is the general character of the
north shore, and the islands of Georgian Bay and their pro-
ductions, up to She-ba-wa-nah-ning, which is situated nearly
mid-way on the northern shore of the waters of Lake Huron."
TRIP FROM COLLIXGWOOD TO THE S. UT STE MARIE,
THKOUGH GEORGIAN BAT AND NOETH CHANNEL.
This is a new and liiglily interesting steamboat excursion,
brought into notice by the completion of the Ontario, Simcoe
and Huron Railroad, extending from Toronto to Collingwood,
at the southern extremity of Georgian Bay.
NoTTAWAssAGA Bay, the southem termination of Georgian
Bay, is a large expanse of water bounded by Cape Rich on the
west and Christian Island on the east, each being distant
about 30 miles from Collingwood. At the south end of the bay
lies a small group of islands called the Hen and Chickens.
On leaving Collingwood for Bruce INIines and the Saut Ste
Marie, the steamer usually runs direct across Georgian Bay to
Lonely Island, passing Cabot's Head to the right, and the pas-
sage leading into the broad waters of Lake Huron, which is the
route pursued by the steamers in the voyage to Mackinac,
Green Bay, and Chicago. During the summer months the
trip from Collingwood to Mackinac and Chicago affords a de-
lightful excursion.
Owen's Sound, or Sydenham, 50 miles west of Collingwood,
although off the direct route to the Saut Ste Marie, is well
worthy of a passing notice. Here is a thriving settlement,
surrounded by a fertile section of country, and containing about
2,500 inhabitants. A steamer runs daily from Collingwood to
this place, which will, no doubt, soon be reached by railroad.
Lonely Island, situated about 100 miles west of Collincr-
wood and 20 miles east of the Great Manitoulin Islands, is a
large body of land mostly covered with a dense forest, anr'
inhabited, except by a few fishermen, who resort here ^j lies
tain seasons of the year for the purpose of takir ;parated
different kinds. The steamer usually passes thi°iat elevated,
north side, steering for Cape Smyth, a bold
34 COLLIN<x tVOOD TO SAUT STE MARIE.
out from the Great Manitoulin, and distant from Lonely Island
about 25 miles.
Squaw Island and Papoose Island are seen on the north-
east, "^vhile farther inland are the Fox Islands, being the com-
mencement on the west of the innumerable islands which
abound along the north shore of Georgian Bay.
La Cloche Mountains, rising about 2,000 feet above the
sea, are next seen in the distance, toward the north ; these,
combined with the wild scenery of the islands and headlands,
form a grand panoramic view, enjoyed fi-om the deck of the
passing steamer.
Smyth's Bay is passed on the west, some eight or ten miles
distant. At the head of this bay, on the Great Manitoulin Is-
land, is situated a village of Indians, and a Jesuit's mission,
called We-qua-me-kong. These aborigines are noted for their
industry, raising wheat, corn, oats, and potatoes in large quan-
tities. This part of the island is very fertile, and the climate
is healthy.
She-ba-wa-nah-ning, signifying, in the Indian dialect,
" Here is a channel," is a most charming spot, 40 miles dis-
tant from Lonely Island, hemmed in by mountains on the north,
and a high rocky island on the south. It is situated on the
north side of a narrow channel, about half a mile in length,
which has a great depth of water. Here is a convenient steam-
boat landing, a church, a store, and some ten or twelve dwel-
lings, inhabited by Canadians and half-breeds. Indians as-
semble here often in considerable numbers, to sell their fish
and furs, presenting with their canoes and dogs a very gro-
tesque appearance. One resident at this landing usually
attracts much attention — a noble dog, of the color of cream. No
sooner does the steamer's bell ring, than this animal rushes to
+.he wharf, sometimes assisting to secure the rope that is thrown
•e; the next move he makes is to board the vessel, as though
a custom-house officer ; but on one occasion, in his eager-
•*-• into the kitchen, he fell overboard; nothing daunted,
shore, and thon again boarding the vessel, sue-
C0LLING\YO0D TO SAUT STE MARIE. 35
ceeded in his desire to fill his stomach, showing the instinct
■which prompts many a biped office-seeker.
On leaving She-ba-wa-nah-ning and proceeding westward,
a most beautiful bay is passed, studded with islands — and
mountains upward of 1,000 feet in height, presenting a rocky
and sterile appearance, forming an appropriate background to
the view — thence is passed Badgley and Heywood islands, the
latter lying oif Heywood Sound, situated on the north side of
the Great Manitoulin.
Max-i-tou-wah-ning, 25 miles northwest of She-ba-wa-
nah-ning, is handsomely situated at the head of Heywood
Sound. It is an Indian settlement, and also a government
agency, being the place annually selected to distribute the
Indian annuities.
Little Current, 25 miles west of She-ba-wa-nah-ning, is
another interesting landing on the north shore of the Great Man-
itoulin, opposite La Cloche Island. Here the main channel is
narrow, with a current usually running at the rate of five or six
knots an hour, being much affected by the winds. The steamer
stops at this landing for an hour or upward, receiving a supply
of wood, it being furnished by an intelligent Indian or half-
breed, who resides at this place with his family. Indians are
often seen here in considerable numbers. They are reported to
be indolent and harmless, too often neglecting the cultivation
of the soil for the more uncertain pursuits of fishing and hunt-
ing, although a considerable large clearing is to be seen indif-
ferently cultivated.
Clappertox Island and other islands of less magnitude
are passed in the JVorth Channel, which is a large body of water
about 120 miles long and 25 miles wide. On the north shore is
situated a post of the Hudson Bay Company, which may be
seen from the deck of the passing steamer.
CocKBURN Island, 85 miles west of Little Current, lies
directly west of the Great INIanitoulin, from which it is separated
by a narrow channel. It is a large island, somewhat elevated,
but uninhabited, except by Indians.
36 COLLINGWOOD TO SAUT STE MARIE.
Drummond Island, 15 miles farther -westward, belongs to
the United States, being attached to the State of Michigan
This is another large body of land, being low, and as yet mostly
uninhabited.
The next island approached before landing at Bruce iMines is
St. Joseph Island, being a large and fertile body of land,
with some few settlers.
Bruce Mines Village, C W., is situated on the north
shore of Lake Huron, or the " North Channel," as it is here
called, distant 290 miles from Collingwood, and 50 from the
Saut Ste Marie. Here are a Methodist chapel, a public-house,
and a store and storehouse belonging to the Montreal Copper
Mining Company, besides extensive buildings used for crushing
ore and preparing it for the market ; about 75 dwellings and
500 inhabitants. The copper ore, after being crushed by power-
ful machinery propelled by steam, is put into puddling troughs
and washed by water, so as to obtain about 20 per cent, pure
copper. In this state it is shipped to the United States and
England, bringing about $80 per ton. It then has to go through
an extensive smelting process, in order to obtain the pure metal.
The mines are situated in the immediate %dcinity of the village,
there being ten openings or shafts from which the ore is ob-
tained in its crude state. Horse-power is mostly used to ele-
vate the ore ; the whims are above ground, attached to which
are ropes and buckets. This mine gives employment to about
300 workmen. The capital stock of the company amounts to
$600,000.
The Wellington Mine, about one mile distant, is also owned
by the Montreal ^Mining Company, but is leased and worked by
an English company. This mine, at the present time, is more
productive than the Bruce Mines.
The Lake Superior Journal gives the following description
of the Bruce Mine, from which is produced a copper ore differ-
ing from that which is yielded by other mines of that peninsula.
" Ten years ago this mine was opened, and large sums ex-
pended for machinery, which proved useless, but it is now un-
COLLINGWOOD TO SAUT STE MARIE. 37
der new management, and promises to yield profitably. Twelve
shafts have been opened, one of which has been carried down
some 330 feet. Some 200 or 300 men are employed, all from
the European mines. Some of the ores are very beautiful to
the eye, resembling fine gold. After being taken out of the
shaft, they are taken upon a rail-track to the crushing-house,
where they are passed between large iron rollers, and sifted till
only a fine powder remains ; from thence to the ' jigger works,'
where they are shaken in water till much of the earthy matter
is washed away, after which it is piled in the yard ready for
shipment, having more the appearance of mud than of copper.
It is now mostly shipped to Swansea, in Wales, for smelting.
Two years since 1,500 tons were shipped to Baltimore and Buf-
falo to be smelted."
On resuming the voyage after leaving Bruce Mines, the
steamer runs along St. Joseph Island through a beautiful
sheet of water, in which are embosomed some few islands near
the main shore.
Campement D'Otjrs is an island passed on the left, lying
contiguous to St. Joseph Island. Here are encountered several
small rocky islands, forming an intricate channel called the
" JVarrows." On some of the islands in this group are found
copper ore, and beautiful specimens of moss. The forest trees,
however, are of a dwarfish growth, owing, no doubt, to the
scantiness of soil on these rocky islands.
About 10 miles west of the " Narrows," the main channel of
the St. INIary's Eiver is reached, forming the boundary between
the United States and Canada. A rocky island lies on the Ca-
nadian side, which is reserved for government purposes, as it
commands the main or ship channel.
Sugar Island is now reached, which belongs to the United
States, and the steamers run a further distance of 25 miles,
when the landing at the Saut Ste Marie is reached, there being
settlements on both sides of the river. The British boats usu-
ally land on the north side, while the American boats make a
landing on the south side of the river, near the mouth of the
ship canal.
4
,j8 COLLIKGWOOD to 8AUT STE MARIE.
TEIP THPwOUGH GEOEGIAN BAY AND THE NOETH CHANNEL
OF LA-KE HUEON TO MANITOULIN AND SAUT
STE MAEIE.
{Copied from a Toronto paper.)
Dated on board the Steamer CoLLrNG-wooD, )
Lake Htjeon, August 17, 1856. i
" A LONG, dark tongue of land stretches out into the lake on
our larboard quarter, and the opposite view is backed by a
rugged coast, with mountains tall and grim. We are just off
Cabot's Head, near where the Georgian Bay attains its greatest
width (58 miles). The east coast of the Georgian Bay, as de-
scribed by Mr. Murray, consists almost exclusively of a sterile
rocky border. There are numerous harbors, many of which
are, however, so hemmed in by reefs and sunken islets as to
render them almost inaccessible to boats of any considerable
draught. As we advance toward the north mainland past
Lonely Island, the eastern extremity of the Great Manitoulin
comes clearly within view. An abrupt escarpment here forms
Cape Smyth, and inside a deep sheltered bend, called Smyths
Bay, is located the Jesuit Missionary village of Wequame-
kong. This neat little settlement being situated on a slope sur-
rounded by extensive clearances, and covered with regularly-
built frame houses, shows out favorably to the passer-by.
Due north lies our first stopping-place. The distance from
Collingwood to the head of the Georgian Bay is about 140 miles,
and the point of measurement is a small trading port named
She-ba-wa-nah-ning, which was reached early on the forenoon
of Thursday. The entrance to it is by a strait so narrow as to
be quite imperceptible at any considerable distance from bhore,
bounded on the east side by the mainland, and on the west by
a high island. It forms a secure harbor at all times, and owing
to the great depth of water and the steepness of both sides, it is
not so difficult to pass, even in stormy weather, as one would
suppose. This village, now for some unaccountable reason
styled ' Killarney,' with the exception of a store, post-office,
and diminutive Roman Catholic church, is a mere collection of
fishing huts and Indian camps. It derives its original name,
as indeed do most of these Indian localities — from a natiiral
characteristic. That name signifies ' Here's a channel ' and it
amounts to a piece of great impertinence on the part of any
one to destroy its adaptability by substituting Kilhirney, or
any other, for it. The population numbers somewhere about 40
whites and half-breeds, with an occasional accession to the
Indian residents, bringing it to an average between 60 and 70.
They employ themselves almost entirely in the pursuits of trad-
ing, hunting, and fishing, but make no attempt at cultivation,
COLLINGWOOD TO SAUT STE MARIE. 39
not even so mucli as a cabbage-garden, although there is some
tolerably good land in the vicinity. Now and again they have
an odd visit from the Jesuit priests at the Wequamekong, and
the Church of England Missionary at Manitou-wahning ; on
whicli occasions the parishioners are called together by a tin
horn instead of a bell. Just inside She-ba-wa-nah-ning is one
of those lovely bayous so common along the rocky and indented
northern coast, with countless small islets, very much resem-
bling the famous ' Thoin^and Islands' in the river St. Lawrence ;
and closing it in on three sides are the La Cloche Mountains,
which here rise abruptly to a considerable altitude. The
steamer does not return by the same channel, but passes around
the island, forming its boiindary on the lake side. Lookin»'
back through the narrow strip of water by which we have
entered from the main lake, it seems a fairy-like performance
to have threaded so small a gorge with this huge steamboat, and
the enchanting wildness of tb.e scenery that bounds us on every
side adds delight to such surprise. On rounding the west point
of this island, the lake opens out again before us, and our
steamer heads toward Manitouwahning, distant about 27
miles. At the head of Hey wood Sound, on the north side of the
Grand Manitoulin, is situated the village, where we expect
to find a host of " aborigines'' awaiting the receipt of a cargo
of trumpery by means of which the commissariat manages to
annually amuse their uncultivated fancies and illustrate the
marvelous solicitude entertained for them by their " Great
Father," who, in the present instance, is a Mother. There is
no wharf, but the water is so deep close in shore, that the
steamboat sidles up to a low, gravelly beach, and our gangway
is laid from her side to land with perfect ease. As it seems not
altogether improbable that the chain of islands constituting an
Indian Reserve in this locality must ere long be brought into
the market for sale, it may prove serviceable to publish a few
descriptive particulars relating to their position and quality.
For such purpose, then, I shall here briefly relate them while
the ' small-boy' in treasury uniform is superintending the em-
barkation of government presents to be distributed among that
heterogeneous and expectant multitude before us.
" The belt of islands known as the Manitoulins embraces
Fitzwilliam, an unimportant island southeast of the principal
of this group, the Grand Manitoulin, and others, of which
Barrie and Cockburn islands are the only ones worthy of note.
The La Cloche and St. Joseph Island are sometimes erroneously
included in the general denomination; but tliey are distin-
guished by being crown properties, while the Manitoulins form
a portion of the Indian Reserves. With the exception of Great
Manitoulin, none of these islands are of much "onsequence in
40 COLLINGWOOD TO SAUT STE MARIE.
point of value. The timber thereupon would indicate soil of a
workable description, but their rocky elevation seems to deny
the existence of fertile tracts of any appreciable extent. The
Grand Manitoulin is eighty-one miles in length, and averages
about twenty miles in width, and has an area of at least sixteen
hundred square miles. Its geological features present nothing
remarkable. The soil, over a Kmestone structure, with a lower
fossiliferous bed of extraordinary depth, is rich ; and there is
an abundance of soft and hard lumber covering it throughout.
I am unaware whether or not any portions of it have been sur-
veyed. Certainly the sooner something practical is done in the
way of cultivating it the better. It may be rather an easy ad-
ministration of that heirloom of titled boobies and aristocratic
sprigs, the Indian Department, to keep these reserved lands
locked up in the chimerical pretense of benefiting the Indians.
The majority of Indians derive no real advantage from them —
will certainly never cultivate them — and, therefore, their con-
tinuous reservation operates but as a bar to the settlement
of adjacent territories. The villages of Wequamekong and
Manitouwahning are the only extensive settlements of pre-
tension upon the Manitoulin Islands. The latter being the
place where we had just landed at the above digression, is the
locale of the government agency, and the appointed residence
of Captain Ironsides, the local superintendent. In other words,
it is the head-quarters of the Indian Department. As a culti-
vated spot it has a very enticing appearance. The site is favor-
able, in some respects, for a village, but building frame houses
for savages, and neither clearing off the stones at similar cost,
nor teaching the natives themselves to do so, and afterward to
plant gardens, potatoes, corn and maize fields, is not a model
plan of carrying out the objects of such selections. The present
condition of this place is the best proof. The white inhabitants
residing here number about thirty ; the Indian population fluc-
tuates between six or seven hundred and two thousand. These,
however, seem never to have appreciated the wooden domiciles
erected for them, as upward of sixteen frame houses in the
village are forsaken, and the remainder may be said to merely
serve as a shelter for the families living in them, as they have
no signs of improvement near or far. There is a neat little
church in the village, and a resident minister of the Church of
England. There also is a ' medicine man.' The residences of
these gentlemen and that of Captain Ironsides are very com-
fortable dwellings. About £600 worth of goods were landed
as presents. They consist principally of blankets, trinkets,
calicoes, pork, flour, and a small quantity of ammunition. It
was the custom formerly to give them articles adapted to their
habitual pursuits, such as shot, guns, rifles, knives, ammuni-
COLLIN'GWOOD TO SA.UT STE MAKIK 41
tion, kettles, hatchets, etc. ; but the most serviceable of these
things have been discontinued, in accordance with the wisdom
of authority. It occupies the officers in charge sometimes two
or three weeks dispensing these articles. The scraps of tribes
now present to receive these gifts belong mostly to the Ottawas,
Chippewas, and Pottawatamies. Some few Munsees and Del-
awares used at one time to frequent the station, but now there
is no great variety of tribes about any part of the lake. In-
deed, at this annual distribution but a very few Indians
attended, in comparison with the multitudinous attendance of
former years. The ' forest children' are annually fading away,
and before many more winters and summers have elapsed it
will most probably be as rare a thing to find a handful of th ^m
about these lakes, as it was in earlier dnys to discover the foot-
steps of the pale-face away up in these northern wilds.
" The next day we accompanied Captain Ironsides, and a party
of friends, to the Indian village of Wequamekong, (This is the
Jesuit mission mentioned in the preceding part of my letter. )
It was reached by a portage of about seven miles across th
neck of the peninsular promontory which forms the east side oi
Heywood Sound. The land through which we passed is said to
be much more fertile than that in any other section of the
island. The village of Wequamekong is quite romantically
situated, and is altogether a very pretty little place. The
Indians here are remnants of the Chippewa and Ottawa tribes,
and they appear cleaner, more industrious, and civilized than I
had seen elsewhere. They have fine fields of Indian corn,
patches of beans, potatoes, etc., and quite a respectable show of
garden vegetables. We witnessed an interesting sight in the
' numbering of the tribes' by Captain Ironsides. It gave us an
opportunity to see some fine-looking old chiefs, several of whom
were astonished at the idea of having their likenesses taken.
The villagers also turned out in holiday attire. We could have
scarce believed it possible they were so well to do in worldly
goods as their ' fashionable' habiliments denoted. Certainly the
Jesuits have carried out their mission at this village in the most
praiseworthy manner. What with good spirits, ravenous appe-
tites, an agreeable host, and the weather that an Italian might
almost envy, our time glid swiftly away until the return of the
steamboat on Sunday morning. And contented as we had been,
the sight of Captain Butterworth's jovial countenance, and a re-
newal of our acquaintance with the ' quite at home' comforts of
the Collingwood, were abundantly relished.
"After leaving Manitouwahning (on Friday), we have the
Great Manitoulin on our left; and up to Little Current, the
next stopping-place, 30 miles farther on, the course lies througb
picturesque clusters of low islands, scantily wooded, and covered
42 COLLINGWOOD TO SAUT STE MARIE.
m tlie open parts with a rank growth of dry -looking wild grass,
and diversified by clumps of dwarfish pines and firs. There is
here a small settlement of Indians and half-breeds. They
furnish wood for the steamer, and likewise supply meat, fish,
vegetables, etc. At dark we cast off from Little Current.
Thence our passage was among woody islands, and through
narrow but deep channels, the main shore of Manitoulin always
within sight, and now and then opening out into a wider sheet
of water, so that the whole course seems to be alternate narrow
straits and small lakes. From Little Current to the Bruce
Mines the distance is nearly 120 miles, and between the west
end of Manitoulin and the north shore, for some distance, the
channel is very broad. We passed this during the night-time.
It was a clear moonlight night ; and we could see by the drift-
ing clouds that hovered above the Great Manitoulin, how rude
Boreas was indulging himself with a jolly blow outside, in the
lake, while not a gust moved the surface of this inside lake,
through which our steamboat smoothly plowed her way. After
a short stay at the mines, we proceeded onward to Saut Ste
Marie, landing once more, en voyage, at Sugar Island. The
village of St. iNIary, or Saut Ste Marie, is so well known to most
people, I shall not bore the reader with any description of it.
Suffice to say, the canal on the American side has helped to build
up that part at the expense of its opposite settlement. The in-
habitants, however, seem to have nothing else to do besides
smoking, drinking gin-slings and mint-juleps, and catching fish.
" Dr. Jackson states that the healthiness of the climate in
these parts during summer months is unsurpassable, and, above
all other places, is calculated to restore the health of invalids
suffering from the depressive miasms of the fever-breeding
Southwestern States, or the pent-up enervating atmosphere of
Eastern cities.
" This route along the North Channel, for the safe conveyance
of merchandise and all perishable goods, is infinitely preferable
to that usually traveled across the lakes, filling up as it does a
distance of not less than 400 miles of rough lake navigation by
a pleasant course sheltered from storms and affording a diversity
of scenery calculated to relieve the tedium of so long a voyage."
ST. JOSEPH ISLAND, C. W.
This important island, lying in St. Mary's River, near its
outlet into Lake Huron, is thus described by T. N, Moles-
worth, provincial land surveyor, and may answer in part
COLLINGWOOD TO SAUT ST:E MAJIIE. 43
for a description of Drummond and Sugar islands, lying con-
tiguous and belonging to the United States.
"The surface along the southern and southwestern shores
of St. Joseph Island is generally flat, low, and swampy, being
in many places wet, and very thickly timbered. The northern,
northeastern, and eastern shores, in general, rise with a gentle
inclination from the shore, being swampy only for a short dis-
tance inward; and along the northerly shore of Point- au-Gra-
vier there is a precipitous rise of about 30 feet in height. The
highest hill, near the center of the island, has an elevation of
about 400 feet. -;.
" The island is generally well watered, a considerable num-
ber of streams rising in the swamps in the interior, and enter-
ing the lake. The principal one is that having its source in
Lake Hilton, which enters Milford Haven with a rapid current,
and having a very good mill-site near its mouth, and a con-
stant supply of water, and also entering a safe and capacious
harbor, is the best adapted for the use of the island. The
other streams are of small size, but appear to have a constant
supply of water.
" The surface soil is almost generally a red sandy loam, or
clay and sand mixed with mold ; but in some places a white
sand appears ; in others a brown or red clay ; under this there
is a stiif clay, in some places of a reddish color, in others nearly
white, which crumbles when exposed to the surface.
"Very little rock appears anywhere on St. Joseph Island,
and only on the shore ; small particles of quartz rock rising
about ten feet above the surface, appear atPayme-day-giundeg.
In the channel opposite Campement D'Ours Island a mass of
syenitic granite puts out in irregular points, some parts
rising about 20 feet above the water. In Lot 10, Concession V.,
white sandstone appears just at the edge of the water, and at
the level of its surface ; and in the Point-au-Gravier Conces-
sion, blue limestone appears rising abruptly from the water to
the height of 30 feet — in the horizontal strata, of from six
inches to a foot in thickness. It is used for making lime and
building at the Bruce Mines, and by the inhabitants.
" The island is closely wooded ; the timber on the hills and
dry surface being maple, beech, birch — often mixed with hem-
lock --cedar, spruce, basswood, and elm. In some parts the
timber is all maple, and a great deal of it is bird's-eye and
curly maple — the latter mostly where the surface is stony. In
the swamps the timber is cedar, spruce, balsam, hemlock, pine,
and tamarack — generally growing very densely in most of the
swamps — the cedar predominating — in some, the tamarack or
spruce.
44 COLLINGWOOD TO SAUT STE M \RTE.
" With regard to the capabilities of the island for settlement,
about two thirds of its surface will probably be available — the
remaining third being swamps of little use except as meadows
at a future period.
" Its soil is of good quality for agricultural purposes , raising
wheat, oats, potatoes, turnips, carrots, peas, beans, Indian corn,
and melons equally well with lands in other parts of the prov-
ince. The mining regions will ajfford a favorable market for
the surplus agricultural produce raised upon the island, which
lies in the course of, and possesses stopping -places for, the Amer-
ican and Canadian steamers proceeding to the Saut Ste
Marie and Lake Superior.
" The snow disappearing off the clearings about the middle
of April, the farmers commence farming operations a few days
later : there are very few frosts after that time to injure any
crops. The harvest commences about the middle of August,
There is an abundance of fine fish in the Avaters around the
island, and small fisheries are carried on in the following
places. Tenby Bay. (White fish are caught extensively after
the middle of October.) Campement des Matelots, or St.
Joseph. (Black bass, pike, and white-fish very abundant.)
Opposite Sugar Island there is a herring fishery ; and in Mud
Lake, opposite the Campement des Matelots, on the American
shore, there is a considerable pickerel fishery. Besides these
there are abundance of pike, trout, and maskalonge in all the
waters round the island, which are very serviceable to the in-
habitants. There are a few moose and red deer, and a num-
ber of black bears on the island, besides foxes, hares, etc.
" The lake freezes over generally before the middle of De-
cember, the ice clearing off in the spring about the 1st May ;
and the snow lies permanently on the ground from the middle
of December to the middle of April ; its average depth is from
two to three feet, its greatest about four feet. The lowest
range of the thermometer is in February, when it reaches 23°
below zero (Fahr.), for perhaps a fortnight, the average cold
being from 10° above to 10° below zero. In June, July, and
August the highest range is sometimes 100° above zero ; aver-
age range 70° to 80°."
This island has been recently surveyed, and the lands sold
under the direction of the Crown Land Department of Canada,
thus offering inducements for settlement and cultivation.
COLLINGWOOD TO SAUT STE MARIE. 45
Saut Ste Marie, capital of Cluppewa Co., Mich., is advan-
tageously situated on St. Mary's River, or Strait, 350 miles
N.N.W. of Detroit, and 15 miles from the foot of Lake Supe-
rior, in N. lat. 46° 31'. The rapids at this place, giving
the name to the settlements on both sides of the river, have
a descent of 20 feet, within the distance of a mile, and form
the natural limit of navigation. The Ship Canal, however,
which has recently been constructed on the American side,
obviatf,^ this difi&culty. Steamers of a large class now pass
throug;h the locks into Lake Superior, greatly facilitating trade
and commerce. The village on the American side is pleasantly
situated near the foot of the rapids, and contains a court-house
and jail ; a Baptist, a Methodist, and a Roman Catholic church ;
15 or 20 stores and storehouses, besides a few manufacturing
establishments, and about 1,000 inhabitants. Many of the in-
habitants and Lidians in the vicinity are engaged in the fur
trade and fisheries, the latter being an important and profit-
able occupation. Summer visitors flock to this place and the
Lake Superior country for health and pleasure. There are two
hotels on the American side, and one on the Canadian side of
the river, affording good accommodations.
Fort Brady is an old and important United States military
post contiguous to this frontier village, where is stationed a
regular garrison of troops. It commands the St. Mary's River
and the approach to the mouth of the canal.
Saut Ste Marie, C. W., is a scattered settlement, where is
located a part of the Hudson Bay Company. Here is a steam-
boat landing, an hotel, and two or three stores, including the
Hudson Bay Company's ; and it has from 200 to 300 inhabit-
ants. Indians of the Chippewa tribe reside in the vicinity in
considerable numbers, they having the exclusive right to take
fish in the waters contiguous to the rapids. They also employ
themselves in running the rapids in their frail canoes, when
desired by citizens or strangers — this being one of the most
exhilarating enjoyments for those fond of aquatic sports. (See
Engraving.)
ST. mart's falls shii canal. 47
THE SAINT MAEY'3 FALLS &HIP CANAL.
This Canal, which connects the navigation of Lake Superior
with the Lower Lakes, is a little more than one mile in length,
and cost about one million dollars.
It was built in the years 1853, '54, '55 by the Saint Mary's!
Falls Ship Canal Company, under a contract with commission-
ers appointed by the authorities of the State of Michigan to
secure the building of the canal.
A grant of 750,000 acres of the public land had previously
been made by Congress to the State of Michigan to aid in the
construction of this important work.
This grant of 750,000 acres was given to the parties contract-
ing for the building of the canal, provided the work should be
completed within two years from the date of the contract.
The work was commenced in the spring of 1853, and completed
within the time specified in the contract {two years !).
This result was accomplished under Tnany disadvantages,
during a very sickly season, and when great difi&culty was ex-
perienced in obtaining laborers ; but the unremitting vigor of
those who had the charge of the work secured its completion in
the most substantial, permanent, and acceptable manner.
During a great portion of the time there were from 1,200 to
1 .GOO men employed upon the work, exclusive of the force at the
difterent quarries where the stone Avas cut and prepared for the
locks, besides a large force employed in necessary agencies,
getting timber, etc.
The stones for the locks were cut at Anlerden, Canada (near
Maiden), and at Marblehead, near Sandusky, in Ohio. These
were sent in vessels to the work, some twenty-five difi"erent sail-
ing vessels being employed in this business.
On the completion of t]ie canal in June, 1855, the Governor
of the State, the State officers, and the Canal Commissioners
proceeded to Saut Ste Marie for the purpose of inspecting the
work. It was accepted, and thereupon, in accordance with the
terms of the contract, the State authorities released to the Canal
48 ST. Mary's falls ship canal.
Compcany and issued patents for the 750,000 acres of land. This
was all the remuneration the company received for the work.
The lands were selected during the building of the canal by
agents appointed by the Governor of IMichigan.
Of the 750,000 acres, 39,000 acres were selected in the iron
region of Lake Superior, 147,000 acres in the copper region,
and the balance, 564,000 acres, in the Lower Peninsula.
The following figures will give some idea of the magnitude of
this work :
Length of canal 5,584 feet, --= 1 mile 304 feet.
Width at top 115 feet— at water-line 100 feet— at bottom 64
feet.
The depth of the canal is 1 2 feet.
A slope wall on the sides of the canal is 4,000 feet in length.
There are two locks, each 350 feet in length.
Width of locks 70 feet at top— 61 J feet at bottom.
The walls are 25 feet high— 10 feet thick at bottom.
Lift of upper lock 8 feet — lower do., 10 feet; total lockage
18 feet.
Lower wharf 180 feet long, 20 feet wide.
Upper wharf 830 feet long, from 16 to 30 feet wide.
There are three pairs of folding gates, each 40 feet wide.
Upper gate 17 feet high— lower gate 24 feet 6 inches high.
There are also upper and lower caisson gates, used^or shutting
off the water from the canal.
The amount of lumber, timber, and iron used in the building
of the piers and gates is enormous.
There were 103, 437 lbs of wrought iron used in the gates, and
38,000 lbs cast iron.
About 8,000 feet of oak timber, etc.
The tolls on the canal are collected by the State— are merely
nominal— and only intended to defray the necessary expenses
of repairs.
THE UPPER LAKE COUNTRY. 49
THE UPPER LAKE COU]JITEY.
We copy the following extract from an address published in
the Lansing (Mich.) Republican, as containing interesting in-
formation regarding the Commerce of the Upper Lakes :
C. T. Harvey, Esq., of Lake Superior, agreeably to appoint-
ment, made an address in the Hall of the House of Represent-
atives on the subject of the '"present state and future prospects
of the Commerce of Lake Superior."
" As to the past, he observed that in 1839 the first steamer
visited the Saut Ste Marie, to the great astonishment of the
Indians "who lived on St. Mary's River. That in 1844 Capt.
Ward first established a regular steamboat line from Detroit to
the entrance of Lake Superior via Mackinac. That in 1849
Mr. S. McKnight (a member of the house) did all the trans-
portation of merchandise around the Falls of St. Mary's with
one or two horses, and it was not till 1851 that the first steamer
floated on the waters of Lake Superior only six years ago.
" After some further reminiscences showing at how very re-
cent a date business in that quarter had commenced, the speaker
proceeded to the present.
" He referred to the report of the Superintendent of the Saut
Canal, to show that in the season of 1856 just closed there was
over 11,000 tons of iron ore shipped through it to Detroit and
eastward. An increase of 800 per cent, over 1855, when only
1,400 tons were sent down. That 1,040 tons of bloom iron were
sent, an increase of 25 per cent. ; but the most remarkable fact
was that ten millions four hundred and fifty-two thousand
pounds of copper were sent through the canal in the raw state
-—over two and a quarter millions of dollars — an increase of
some 67 per cent. Mr. H. remarked that this noticeable in-
crease did not look like a failure of the mining interests, al-
though public excitement respecting them had subsided.
" The business eastward through the canal of mineral and
fish exported from the lake, amounted to, as estimated by the
Superintendent, $2,875,000 ; while the imports of merchandise
and supplies were, in round numbers, $2,500,000 ; making a
total of $5,375,000, of which he calculated full $5,000,000 was
commerce of the Upper Peninsula. Remarking that a trade
of this magnitude, which had sprung up out of nothing within
fifteen years, must in the next fifteen years increase in almost
the same ratio, till the results would be almost incredible, he
hazarded the conjecture, that within 25 years as many vessels
of all kinds would pass and re-pass in the St. Mary's River, as
now frequent the waters of the St. Clair."
5
TRIP FROM COLLIXGWOOD TO MACKIXAC, GREEN
BAY, CHICAGO, ETC.
This excursion is an interesting one for the pleasure traveler,
as well as the man of business. The steamer on leaving Col-
lingwood runs direct for Cabofs Head, 80 miles, skirting the
main shore of Canada to Cape Hurd, about 20 miles farther,,
passing the Bear's Rump, Flower Pot, Echo and Cove islands.
Yeo Island and Fitz William Island (a large island) are
seen on the north ; several smaller islands are also passed, when
the broad waters of Lake Huron are entered, the steamers
usually running direct for Mackinac.
The Great Maxitoulin may be seen in the distance,
toward the north, in pleasant weather, and the Outer Duck
and Great Duck islands are passed about 80 miles westward
of Cape Hurd.
The steamer then pursues a westerly course toward Mackinac,
about 100 miles farther, sighting Presque Isle on the main
Michigan shore, and passing Bois Blanc and Round islands.
The Straits of Mackinac are now entered, being here about
twenty miles across, but soon diminishes in width; opposite
old Fort Mackinac it is four or five miles in width.
The Straits of Mackinac, with the approaches thereto
from Lakes Huron and ^Michigan, will always command atten-
tion from the passing traveler. Through this channel will pass,
for ages to come, a great current of commerce, and its shores
will be enlivened with civilized life, where at present the Indian
now lingers, but, alas ! is fast fading away.
It is proposed to construct a railroad running from Detroit
or Saginaw to Old Fort Mackinac, which, when completed, will
^nd to open the whole northern portion of this part of the
State of Michigan, one of the most favorably situated States of
COLLINGWOOD TO MACKINAC, ETC. 51
the whole Union ; having two peninsulas, rich in soil and mine-
ral pi'oductions, and from which are now exported immense
quantities of lumber, copper, and iron ore.
In this great commercial route Lake Huron is traversed for
about 180 miles, often affording the traveler a taste of sea-sick-
ness and its consequent evils. Yet there often are times when
Lake Huron is hardly ruffled, and the timid passenger enjoys
the voyage vrith. as much zest as the more experienced mariner.
]\L^.CKiivAc, the gem of the Upper Lake islands, may vie with
any other locality for the salubrity of its climate, for its pic-
turesque beauties, and for its vicinity to fine fishing-grounds.
Here the invalid, the seeker of pleasure, as well as the sports-
man and angler, can find enjoyment to their heart's content
during warm weather. For further description see page 110.
On leaving Mackinac for Green Bay the steamer generally
runs a west course for the mouth of the bay, passing several
islands in Lake ^Michigan before entering the waters of Green
Bay, about 150 miles distant.
Summer Island lies on the north side and Rock Island
lies on the south side of the entrance to Green Bay, forming a
charming view from the deck of the steamer.
Potawatomee Island, Chambers' Island, and other
small islands, are next passed on the upward trip toward the
head of the bay.
Green Bay, about 100 miles long and from 20 to 30 miles
wide, is a splendid sheet of water, destined no doubt to be
enlivened with commerce and pleasure excursions. Here are
to be seen a number of picturesque islands and headlands.
Several important streams enter into Green Bay, the largest
of which is Neenah or Fox River, at its head, and is the outlet
of Winnebago Lake. Menomonee River forms the boundary
between the States of Wisconsin and Michigan, and empties
into the bay opposite Green Island.
The town of Green Bay, the capital of Brown Co., Wis., is
finely situated near the mouth of Fox or Neenah River, at ita
entrance into Green Bay, where is a good and secure harbor.
52 COLLINGWOOD TO MACKINAC, ETC.
It lies 25 miles due west of Kewaunee, on the west shore of
Lake Michigan, and 115 miles north from Milwaukee. The
town is handsomely situated, and contains many large ware-
houses and elegant residences, together with several churches,
hotels, and stores of different kinds, and about 3.000 inhab-
itants. The improvement of Fox River by dams and locks, in
connection with the improvements on the Wisconsin River,
afford an uninterrupted steam navigation from Green Bay to
Prairie du Chien, on the Mississippi River — thus making Green
Bay a great point for the trans-shipment of goods and produce
of every variety ; the largest class steamers running to Chicago
on the south, Saut Ste Marie on the north, as well as to Colling-
wood, to Detroit, and to Buffalo on the east. The lumber trade
of Green Bay is immense, this whole section of country abound-
ing in timber of different kinds the most useful for building
purposes.
AsTOR is the name of a suburb of Green Bay, lying at the
mouth of Fox River, while on the opposite side of the stream
stands Fort Howard, surrounded by a village of the same
name.
Nenomonee City, Oconto Co., Wis., is a new settlement,
situated on the west side of Green Bay, near the mouth of Ne-
nomonee River. The country to the west and north of this
place is as yet a wilderness, inhabited only by a feW roving
Indians.
In regard to the route from Green Bay to Lake Superior, the
Advocate says :
" A road from Green Bay to the most southerly point of Kee-
wenaw would be less than 200 miles in length, and while it
would shorten the travel over the present route (by water) at
least 100 miles, would open one of the most beautiful and fer-
tile sections in the Union— a section which will remain unknown
and unoccupied until such a road is opened by the government.
The Lake Superior people need it most especially for procuring
supplies, driving cattle, etc.
" The traveler finds the whole distance, to within a few miles
of Lake Superior, abounding in every resource which will make
a country wealthy and prosperous. Clear, beautiful lakes are
COLLINGWOOD TO MACKINAC, ETC. 53
interspersed, and these have plenty of large trout and other
fish. Water and water -powers are everywhere to be found, and
the timber is of the best kind — maple groves, beech, oak, pine,
etc. Nothing is now wanted but a few roads to open this
rich country to the settler, and it will soon teem with vil-
lages, schools, mills, farming operations, and every industrial
pursuit which the more southern portion of our State now ex-
hibits."
Fox or JVeenah River rises in Marquette Co., Wis., and
passing through Lake Winnebago, forms its outlet. This im-
portant stream is rendered navigable for steUmers of a small
class by means of dams and locks, forming in connection with a
short canal to the Wisconsin Eiver a direct water communica-
tion from Green Bay to the Mississippi River, a distance of
about 200 miles. The rapids in the lower part of Fox River
afford an immense water-power, while the upper section of
country through which it flows, produces lumber and grain in
great abundance.
Appletopj-, Outaganie Co., Wis., is situated on Fox or Nee-
nah River, 30 miles from its entrance into Green Bay, and five
miles from Lake Winnebago, where are rapids called the
Gi^and Chute. Here the river descends about 30 feet in one
mile and a half, affording an inexhaustible amount of water-
power. Here are located two flouring mills, four saw mills, a
paper mill, and sash factory. This is the capital of the county,
and is no doubt destined to become a large manufacturing and
commercial place, from the facilities which it possesses, by
means of navigation and hydraulic power. Steamers rim south
into Lake Winnebago, and north into Green Bay.
Neenah, situated at the foot of Lake Winnebago, where
commences the river improvement, is a growing place. Here
is a fine water-power, which gives motion to several mills.
The City of Oshkosh, situated on the west side of Lake Win-
nebago, is a flourishing place, and the capital of Winnebago
County, Wis. It contains the county buildings, 7 churches, a
land-office, several public houses, 40 or 50 stores of different
kinds, 2 steam grist-mills, 12 steam saw-mills, 2 iron foundries,
5*
54 COLLINGWOOD TO MACKINAC, ETC.
and a number of other manufacturing establishments, and about
7,500 inhabitants.
The Fox and Wo//" rivers uniting, form a large and important
stream, flowing into the lake at Oshkosh, which, together with
plank-roads and a railroad to extend south to Fond du Lac,
and another road to Ripon, give great facilities for trade and
commerce, in connection with lake and river navigation. The
Fox River Improvement here leaves Lake Winnebago, and ex-
tends in a southwest direction toward the junction with the
Wisconsin River at Portage City.
Fond du Lac, capital of Fond du Lac County, is a flourish-
ing city favorably situated at the head of Lake Winnebago,
87 miles N.N.W. from Milwaukee by railroad route, and 42
miles west of Sheboygan, lying on Lake Michigan. Here are
located the county buildings, a city hall, several churches and
public houses, 60 stores of diff"erent kinds, two banking houses,
a car factory, an iron foundry, and several other manufacturing
establishments, and 7,000 inhabitants. Steamers run daily to
Oshkosh, Appleton, Green Bay, and other ports.
The Chicago, St. Paul and Fond du Lac Railroad, when
finished, will form a direct and speedy communication with al-
most every part of Wisconsin, Illinois, and Minnesota.
Lake Winnebago, which is a most beautiful sheet of water,
about 30 miles long and 10 broad, forms a link in the chain of
navigable waters, connecting Green Bay and Lake Michigan
vrith the Wisconsin and Mississippi River at Prairie du Chien.
Railroads will soon reach the waters of this lake from several
points.
The Trip from Chicago to Mackinac, etc., connecting
at the latter place with the Green Bay route, is fully described
in another part of this work
LAKE SUPERIOR REGION. 55
MmEEAL WEALTH OF THE LAKE SUPEEIOE REGION.
Native Copper ^— " This useful metal is in every respect the
most interesting substance found in connectioa with the trap-
pean rocks of the Lake Superior region, is widely distributed,
and possesses great mineralogical interest. In addition to the
enormous masses which occur in the veins of this region, some-
times attaining at the Cliff Mine the weight of several hundred
tons, a great variety of crystalline forms are occasionally found.
The most interesting localities of the crystallized copper are at
the Copper Falls, the Cliff, the Phoenix, and the Eagle Harbor
mines. Many of these beautiful specimens are highly valued
by those interested in the mines, and, of course, difficult to be
obtained, except by those residing at the localities where they
occur."
Native Silver. — " This valuable metal occurs, diffused
through the trap, at various localities on Keweenaw Point and
Isle Royal. In fact, its distribution is coextensive with that of
native copper ; but the principal portion of that which has been
obtained thus far was from the old Lake Superior (now Phoe-
nix), the Cliff, the Copper Falls, and the Minnesota mines.
The silver occurs in connection with the metallic copper, both
metals being united together at their edges, and yet each being
almost entirely pure and free from alloy with the other. The
silver is almost invariably accompanied by a greenish, hydrous
silicate of alumina and iron. The largest mass of silver ob-
tained, up to this time, weighed more than six pounds. This
was found at the Phoenix Mine. Beautiful specimens of native
silver, in Prehnite, have also been picked up on the beaches of
Washington Harbor, Isle Royal."
A Diamond Found. — We had been well aware that this
country was very rich in minerals and some kinds of precious
stones, but we had not expected to see a Lake Superior dia-
mond, yet such is the case. We were shown one yesterday
that would measure three fourths of an inch in length, and at
least one fourth of an inch in thickness. It is a regular formed
56 LAKE SUPERIOR REGION\
octagon, and all who have seen it pronounce it a diamond, but
of what exact value is yet uncertain, it being in the rough
state. It cuts glass and shows all the brilliancy of a diamond
of the first water, which, if it should prove to be, will make its
value not less than two thousand dollars. The diamond was found
by the wife of Mr. Alfred HauflFman. while walking on the shore
of the Lake. The waves washed it up, and on receding left it
exposed to the rays of the sun, when i<s brightness attracted
her attention, and she picked it up. Mr. H. is a poor laboring
man, and should it prove as valuable as is supposed, it will be
quite a handsome windfall (we might say water-fnW) for him.
This is a great country. — Lake Superior Journal — 1856.
For a description of Lake Superior Iron Region, see page 66.
LAKE COMMERCE— IMPOETANT IMPEOYEMENTS.
Deepening or the St. Clair Flats. — We understand,
says the Detroit Daili/ Advertiser (June, 1855), that the con-
tract for deepening the channel of the St. Clair Flats has been
let to Mr. Barton, of Buffalo. The contract is subject to the
approval of the War Department, and should it be approved by
the first of next month, it will be prosecuted with vigor. Mr.
Barton is also connected with Mr. Osgood in the contract for
deepening the channel of the St. Mary River, which has been
approved by the War Department. The machinery to be used
in the work will be taken up in a few days, and every prepara-
tion is being made to commence the work about the 1st of July,
and to drive it successfully forward. We hear that both the
above-named gentlemen have had much experience in this kind
of business, and being men of energy and perseverance, ■\^'ill
push the work forward with all possible dispatch. The deepen-
ing of both these channels is all- important to the commercial
community, and it is earnestly hoped that nothing may occur
to hinder or retard its progress and speedy completion.
TRIP FROM SAUT STE MARIE TO THE DIFFERENT
PORTS OX LAKE SUPERIOR.
Since the completion of the St. Mary's Ship Canal in the
tspring of 1855, steamers and propellers of a large class traverse
the waters of Lake Superior, affording safe and excellent accom-
dations for travelers and emigrants. During the year 1856
three large steamers formed the Lake Superior Line running
from Cleveland and Detroit through the canal to Superior City,
at the head of Fond du Lac, and two large steamers, besides
several propellers, ran from Chicago for the same destination,
stopping at Mackinac, forming an almost daily communication
with the different Lake Superior ports.
The steamer Collingwood also runs direct from Collingwood,
C. "W., to the Saut Ste Marie, enabling passengers taking the
Toronto and Collingwood route to proceed direct into Lake
Superior.
On leaving the Upper Landing at the Saut Ste Marie, above
the rapids, the steamer soon enters Tequamenon Bay, passing
Iroquois Point, 15 miles distant on the south shore, while Gros
Cap, on the north or Canada side, lies opposite, being about four
miles asunder. This headland consists of hills of porphyry esti-
mated to rise 6 or 700 feet above the waters of the lake. " Gros
Cap is a name given by the voyageurs to almost innumerable
projecting headlands ; but in this case appropriate — since it is
the conspicuous feature at the entrance of the lake."
North of Gros Cap lies Goidais Bay, and Goulais Point, an-
other bold headland, is seen in the distance. The whole north
shore, as seen from the deck of the steamer, presents a bold and
grand appearance.
Tequamenon Bay is about 25 miles long and as many broad,
terminating at White Fish Point, 40 miles above Saut Ste Marie.
Parisien Island is passed, lying near the middle of the above
58 LAKE SUPERH. R.
bay, being attached to Canada. Opposite this island, to the
north, is seen Coulee Point, and besides this, several small
islands stud the north shore. Tequameyion River enters the
bay from the east, dischai'ging a large quantity of water.
Mamainse Point (Little Sturgeon), opposite White Fish
Point, is another bold headland, near where is situated the
Quebec Copper Mining Co.'s Works, at present abandoned, owing
to their being found unproductive. Some 15 or 20 miles north
are located the Montreal Company's Copper Mine, which is being
successfully woi'ked. While still farther north, skirting Lake
Superior, is to be found a vast mineral region, as yet only par-
tially explored.
The scenery of Lake Superior, and the productions of its
shores, which are so little known to even our professional tour-
ists, are thus vividly described by an intelligent writer :
" Situated between latitudes forty -six and forty-nine — with
an altitude of over two hundred yards above the level of the
ocean, and a depth reaching far below that level — a coast of
surpassing beavity and grandeur, more than twelve hundred
miles in extent, and abounding in geological phenomena, varied
mineral wealth, agates, cornelian, jasper, opal, and other precious
stones — with its rivers, bays, estuaries, islands, presque isles,
peninsulas, capes, pictured rocks, transparent lakes, leaping cas-
cades, and bold highlands, limned with pure veins of quartz,
spar, and amethystine crystals, full to repletion with mineral
riches ; reflecting in gorgeous majesty the sun's bright rays and
the moon's mellow blush ; o'ertopped with ever- verdant groves
of fir, cedar, and the mountain ash ; while the background is
filled up with mountain upon mountain, until rising in majesty
to the clouds, distance loses their inequality resting against the
clear vault of heaven."
On passing White Fish Point, where may be seen a number
of " sand-dunes," or hills, and a light-house 75 feet in height,
the broad waters of Lake Superior are reached. The steamers
usually pursue a westerly course toward Grand Island or Mar-
quette, passing Point au Sable, 50 miles farther. During clear
weather, the steep sandy hills on the south shore, ranging from
400 to 1,000 feet in height, may be seen from the deck of the
steamer.
LAKE SUPERIOR. 59
The Pictured Rocks, of which almost fabulous accounts are
given by travelers, are about 110 miles west of Saut Ste Marie.
Here also are to be seen the Cascade Falls and the Arched
Rock, both objects of great interest. The Amphitheatre, Miners'
Castle, Chapel, Grand Portal, and Sail Rock, are also points of
great picturesque beauty, which require to be seen to be justly
appreciated.
Extract from Foster and Whitney's Report of the Geology
of the Lake Superior Land District :
PICTUEED EOCKS.
" The range of cliffs to which the name of the Pictured Rocks
has been given, may be regarded as among the most striking
and beautiful features of the scenery of the Northwest, and are
well worthy the attention of the artist, the lover of the grand
and beautiful, and the observer of geological phenomena.
" Although occasionally visited by travelers, a full and ac-
curate description of this extraordinary locality has not as yet
been communicated to the public*
" The Pictured Rocks may be described, in general terms,
as a series of sandstone bluffs extending along the shore of
Lake Superior for about five miles, and rising, in most places,
vertically from the water, without any beach at the base, to a
height varying from fifty to nearly two hundred feet. Were
they simply a line of cliffs, they might not, so far as relates to
height or extent, be worthy of a rank among great natural
curiosities, although such an assemblage of rocky strata,
washed by the waves of the great lake, would not, under any
circumstances, be destitute of grandeur. To the 'voyager
coasting along their base in his frail canoe they would, at all
times, be an object of dread ; the recoil of the surf, the rock-
bound coast, affording for miles no place of refuge ; the low-
ering sky, the rising wind ; all these would excite his appre-
* Schoolcraft has undertaken to describe this range of cliffs, and iUus-
Irate the scenery. The sketches do not appear to have been made on the
spot, or finished by one who was acquainted with t'.ie scenery, as they
bear no resemblance, so far as we observed, to any of the prominent fea-
tures of the Pictured Eocks.
" It is a matter of surprise that, so far as we know, none of our artists
have visited this region and given to the world representations of scenery
so striking, and so different from any which can be found elsewhere.
"We can hardly conceive of any thing more worthy of the artist's pencU ;
and if the tide of pleasure-travel should once be turned in this direction,
it seems not unreasonable to suppose that a fashionable hotel may yet be
built under the shade of the pine groves near the Chapel, and a trip
thither become as common as one to Niagara now is."
60 LAKE SUPERIOR.
hension, and induce him to ply a vigorous oar until tlie dreaded
wall was passed. But in the Pictured Kocks there are two
features which communicate to the scenery a wonderful and
almost unique character. These are, first, the curious manner
in which the cliffs have been excavated and worn away by the
action of the lake, which for centuries has dashed an ocean-
like surf against their base ; and, second, the equally curious
manner in which large portions of the surface have been
coloi-ed by bands of brilliant hues.
" It is from the latter circumstance that the name by which
these cliffs are known to the American traveler is derived;
while that applied to them by the French voyageurs (' Les
Port ails'*) is derived from the former, and by far the most
striking peculiarity.
" The term Pictured Rocks has been in use for a great
length of time, but when it was first applied we have been
unable to discover.
" The Indian name applied to these cliffs, according to our
voyageurs, is Schkuee-archibi-kiing or " The end of the
rocks," which seems to refer to the fact that, in descending the
lake, after having passed them, no more rocks are seen along
the shore. Our voyageurs had many legends to relate of the
pranks of the Menni-boujou in these caverns, and in answer to
our inquiries seemed disposed to fabricate stories without end
of the achievements of this Indian deity.
" We will describe the most interesting points in the series,
proceeding from west to east. On leaving Grand Island harbor,t
* Le Portail is a French term, signifying the principal entrance of a
church or a portal, and this name was given to the Pictured Eocks by
the voyageurs evidently in allusion to the arched entrances which con-
stitute the most characteristic feature. Le Grand Portail is the great
archway, or grand portal. , , , .
t The traveler desirous of visiting this scene should take advantage
of one of the steamers or propellers which navigate the lake and land at
Grand Island, from which he can proceed to make the tour of the inter-
esting' points in a small boat. The large vessels on the lake do not ap-
proach sutficientlv near the clififs to allow the traveler to gather more than
a general idea of their position and outlines. To be able to p.ppreciate
ami understand their extraordinary character, it is indispensable to coast
alono- in close proximity to the cliffs and pass beneath the Grand Portal,
which is only accessible from the lake, and to land and enter within the
precincts of the Chapel. At Grand Island, boats, men, and provisions
may be procured. The traveler should lay in a good supply, if it is in-
tended to be absent long enough to make a thorough examination of the
whole series. In fact, an old vovager will not readily trust himself to the
mercv of the winds and waves of the lake without them, as he may not
unfrequentlv, however auspicious the weather when starting, find himself
weather-bound for days together. It is possible, however, m one day, to
start from Grand Island, see the most interesting points and return. The
distance from WiUiam's to the Chapel— the farthest point of interest— is
about fifteen miles.
LAKE SUPERIOR. 61
high clilfs are seen to the east, which form the commence-
ment of the series of rocky promontories, which rise vertically
from the water to the height of from one hundred to one hun-
dred and twenty-five feet, covered with a dense canopy of foli-
age. Occasionally a small cascade may be seen falling from
the verge to the base in an unbroken curve, or gliding down
the inclined face of the cliff in a sheet of white foam. The
rocks at this point begin to assume fantastic shapes ; but it
is not until having reached Miners' Eiver that their striking
peculiarities are observed. Here the coast makes an abrupt
turn to the eastward, and just at the point where the rocks
break off and the friendly sand-beach begins, is seen one of the
grandest works of nature in her rock-built architecture. We
gave it the name of " Miners' Castle," from its singular resem-
blance to the turreted entrance and arched portal of some old
castle — for instance, that of Dumbarton. The height of the ad-
vancing mass, in which the form of the Gothic gateway may be
recognized, is about seventy feet, while that of the main wall
forming the background is about one hundred and forty. The
appearance of the openings at the base changes rapidly with
each change in the position of the spectator. On taking a posi-
tion a little farther to tlie right of that occupied by the
sketcher, the central opening appears more distinctly flanked
on either side by two lateral passages, making the resemblance
to an artificial work still more striking.
" A little farther east. Miners' River enters the lake close
under the brow of the cliif, which here sinks down and gives
place to a sand-bank nearly a third of a mile in extent. The
river is so narrow that it requires no little skill on the part of
the voyager to enter its mouth when a heavy sea is rolling in
from the north. On the right bank, a sandy drift plain, cov-
ered with Norway and Banksian pine, spreads out, affording
good camping-ground— the only place of refuge to the voyager
until lie reaches Chapel River, five miles distant, if we excep*
a small sand beach about midway between the two points,
where, in case of necessity, a boat may be beached.
" Beyond the sand beach at Miners' River the cliffs attain
an altitude of one hundred and seventy-three feet, and main-
tain a nearly uniform height for a considerable distance. Here
one of those cascades of which we have before spoken is seen
foaming down the rock.
" The cliffs do not form straight lines, but rather arcs of
circles, the space between the projecting points having been
worn out in symmetrical curves, some of which are of large di-
mensions. To one of the grandest and most regularly formed
we gave the name of ' The Amphitheatre.' Looking to the
west, another projecting point — its base worn into cave-lik;-
6
62 LAKE SUPi- :i.
forms— and a portion of the concave surface of the intervening]
space are seen.
" It is in this portion of the series that the phenomena of
colors are most beautifully and conspicuously displayed. These
can not be illustrated by a mere crayon sketch, but -^ould re-
quire, to reproduce the natural eifect, an elaborate drawing on
a large scale, in which the various combinations of color should
be carefully represented. These colors do not by any means
cover the whole surface of the cliff even where they are mobi
(conspicuously displayed, but are confined to certain portions of
ihe cliffs in the vicinity of the Amphitheatre ; the great mass
if the surface presenting the natural, light-yellow, or raw-
denna color of the rock The colors are also limited in their
vertical range, rarely extending more than thirty or forty feet
above the water, or a quarter or a third of the vertical height
of the cliff. The prevailing tints consist of deep-brown, yellow.
and gray — burnt-sienna and French-gray predominating.
'■There are also bright blues and greens, though less fre-
quent. All of the tints are fresh, brilliant, and distinct, and
harmonize admirably with one another, which, taken in con-
nection with the grandeur of the arched and caverned surfaces
on which they are laid, and the deep and pure green of the
water which lieaves and swells at the base, and the rich foliage
which waves above, produce an effect truly wonderful.
" They are not scattered indiscriminately over the surface
of the rock, but are arranged in vertical and parallel bands,
extending to the water's edge. The mode of their production
is undoubtedly as follows : Between the bands or strata of
thick-bedded sandstone there are thin seams of shaly mate-
rials, which are more or less charged with the metallic oxides,
iron largely predominating, with here and there a trace of
copper. As the surface-water permeates through the porous
strata it comes in contact with these shaly bands, and, oozing
out from the exposed edges, trickles down the face of the cliffs.
and leaves behind a sediment, colored according to the oxide
which is contained in the band in which it originated. It can
not, however, be denied that there are some peculiarities which
it is difficult to explain by any hypothesis.
" On first examining the Pictured Eocks, we were forcibly
struck with the brilliancy and beauty of the colors, and won-
dered why some of our predecessors, in their descriptions, had
hardly adverted to what we regarded as their most character-
istic feature. At a subsequent visit we were surprised to find
that the effect of the colors was much less striking than before :
they seemed faded out, leaving only traces of their former bril-
liancy, so that the traveler might regard this as an unimport-
ant feature in the scenery. It is difficult to account for this
LAKE SUFKRIOR. 63
change, but it may be due to the drynesss or humidity of the
season. If the colors are produced by the percolation of the
water through the strata, taking up and depositing the colored
sediments, as before suggested, it is evident that a long period
of drouth would cut off the supply of moisture, and the colors,
being no longer renewed, would fade, and finally disappear.
This explanation seems reasonable, for at the time of our second
visit the beds of the streams on the summit of the table-land
were dry.
" It is a curious fact, that the colors are so firmly attached
to file surface that they are very little affected by rains or the
dashing of the surf, since they were, in numerous instances,
observed extending in all their freshness to the very water's
edge.
" Proceeding to the eastward of the Amphitheatre, we find
the cliffs scooped out into caverns and grotesque openings, of
the most striking and beautiful variety of forms. In some
places huge blocks of sandstone have become dislodged and
accumulated at the base of the cliff, where they are ground up
and the fragments borne away by the ceaseless action of the
surge.
" To a striking group of detached blocks the name of ' Sail
Rock' has been given, from its striking resemblance to the jib
and mainsail of a sloop when spread — so much so, that when
\iewed from a distance, with a full glare of light upon it, while
the cliff in the rear is left in the shade, the illusion is perfect.
The height of the block is about forty feet.
" Masses of rock are frequently disloged from the cliff, if we
may judge from the freshness of the fracture and the appear-
ance of the trees involved in the descent. The rapidity with
which this undermining process is carried on, at many points,
will be readily appreciated when we consider that the cliffs do not
iorm a single unbroken line of wall ; but, on the contrary, they
present numerous salient angles to the full force of the Avaves.
A projecting corner is undermined until the superincumbent
weight becomes too great, the overhanging mass cracks, and
aided perhaps by the power of frost, gradually becomes loosened,
and finally topples with a crash into the lake.
•' The same general arched and broken line of cliffs borders the
coast for a mile to the eastward of Sail Rock, where the most im-
posing feature in the series is reached. This is the Grand Portal
— Lt Grand Portail of the voya^eurs. The general disposition
of the arched openings which traverse this great quadrilateral
mass may, perhaps, be made intelligible without the aid of a
gro\ind-plan. The main body of the structure consists of a vast
mass of a rectilinear shape, p^ ejecting out into the lake about six
hundred feet, and presenting a front of three hundrcl or four
64 LAKE SUPERIOR.
hundred feet, and rising to a height of about two hundred feet.
An entrance has been excavated from one side to the other, open-
ing out into large vaulted passages which communicate "with the
great dome, some three hundred feet from the front of the cliif.
The Grand Portal, which opens out on the lake, is of magnificent
dimensions, being about one hundred feet in height, ond ono
hundred and sixty-eight feet broad at the water-level. The dis-
tance from the verge of the cliif over the arch to the water is
one hundred and thiity-three feet, leaving thirty-three feet fcr
the thickness of the rock above the arch itself. The extreme
height of the cliif is about fifty feet more, making in all one
hundred and eighty-three feet.
"It is impossible, by any arrangement of words, or by any
combination of colors, to convey an adequate idea of this won-
derful scene. The vast dimensions of the cavern, the vaulted
passages, the varied effects of the light as it streams through
the great arch and falls on the different objects, the deep
emerald green of the water, the xmvarying swell of the lake
keeping up a succession of musical echoes, the reverberations
of one's own voice coming back with startling effect, all these
must be seen, and heard, and felt, to be fully appreciated.
," Beyond the Grand Portal the cliffs gradually diminish in
height, and the general trend of the coast is more to the south-
east; hence the rock being less exposed to the force of the
waves, bears fewer marks of their destructive action. The
entrance to Chap?l River is at the most easterly extremity of a
sandy beach which extends f jr a quarter of a mile, and affords
a convenient landiug-place, while the drift-terrace, elevated
about thirty feet above the lake-level, being an open pine plain,
affords excellent camping-ground, and is the most central and
convenient spot for the traveler to pitch his tent, while he ex-
amines the most interesting localities in the series which occur
in this vicinity — to wit, the Grand Portal and the Chapel. —
(See Engraving.)
The Chapel — La Chapelle of the voyageurs — if not the grand-
est, is among the most grotesque, of ISTature's architecture here
displayed. Unlike the excavations before described, which occur
at the water's edge, this las been made in the rock at a height
of thirty or forty feet above the lake. The interior consists of
a vaulted apartment, which has not inaptly received the name
it bears. An arched roof of sandstone, from ten to twenty feet
in thickness, rests on four gigantic columns of rock, so as to
leave a vaulted apartment of irregular shape, about forty feet
in diameter, and about the sime in height. The columns con-
sist of finely stratified rock, and have been worn into curious
shapes. At the base of one of them an arched cavi'y or niche
has been cut, to which access is had by a flight of steps formed
LAKE SUPERIOR. ~ 65
by the projecting strata. The disposition cf the Tvhole is such
us to resemble rery much the |mlpit of a church ; since there
is overhead an arched canopy, and in front an opening out
toward the vaulted interior of the chapel, with a flat tabular
mass in front, rising to a convenient height for a desk, while on
the right is an isolated block, which not inaptly represents an
altar ; so that if the whole had been adapted expressly for a place
of worship, and fashioned by the hand of man, it could hardly
have been arranged more appropriately. It is hardly possible
to describe the singular and unique effect of this extraordinary
structure ; it is truly a temple of nature — " a house not made
with hands."
" On the west side, and in close proximity. Chapel River enters
the lake, precipitating itself over a rocky ledge ten or fifteen
feet in height. '^
" It is surprising to see how little the action of the stream
has worn away the rocks which form its bed. There appears to
have been hardly any recession of the cascade, and the rocky
bed has been excavated only a foot or two since the stream
assumed its present direction.
" It seems therefore impossible that the river could have had
any influence in excavating the Chapel itself, but its excavation
must be referred to a period when the waters of the lake stood
at a higher level.
" Near the Grand Portal the cliffs are covered, in places, with
an efilorescence of sulphate of lime, in delicate crystallizations ;
this substance not only incrusts the walls, but is found deposited
on the moss which lines them, forming singular and interesting
specimens, which however can not be transported without losing
their beauty.
" At the same place we found numerous traces of organic life
in the form of obscure fucoidal markings, which seem to be the
impressions of plants, similar to those described by Prof. Hall
as occui'ring in the Potsdam sandstone of New York. These
were fii'st noticed at this place by Dr. Locke, in 1847."
Grand Islaivd, 125 miles distant from the Saut, is about ten
miles long and five wide, lying close in to the south shore. This
is a wild and romantic island ; the cliffs of sandstone, irregular
and broken into by the waves, form picturesque caverns, pillars,
and arches of immense dimensions. The main shore, also in
* '• At this fall, according to immemorial usage among the voyagenrs in
ascending the lake, the mangeurs de lard, who make their first trip, re-
ceive baptism ; which consists in giving them a severe ducking — a cere-
mony somewhat similar to that practiced on green-horns, when crossing
the line.
6*
66 LAKE SUPERIOR.
sight, presents a magnificent appearance. Here are several
other small islands, and a good harhor. It is proposed to con-
struct a railroad from this harbor to the head of Big Bay de
Noc, the most northern arm of Green Bay, only 30 miles dis-
tant, thus forming an almost direct north and south route to
Chicago, etc.
Marquette, Mich., 170 miles from the Saut, is one of the
most flourishing places on the borders of Lake Superior, being
the shipping port of the rich iron mines, which are from four to
twelve miles distant from the village. These mines yield from
GO to 80 per cent, pure iron, which is exported in large quan-
tities to Detroit, to Cleveland, and to Pittsburgh. A railroad
extends some twelve or fourteen miles to the mines, affording
the mines facilities for transporting the ore to jMarquette, where
is a good harbor. The village contains two churches, a large
hotel, besides several taverns and stores, and about 1,000 in-
habitants. A railroad will soon be constructed from this point
to Little Bay de Noc, about 30 miles southeast, which, when
completed, will greatly facilitate the trafl&c in iron and copper
ores, in which this whole section of country abounds, as well as
with other valuable metals, precious stones, etc.
LAKE SUPEEIOE IRON EEGION.
" The discovery of the iron mountains and mines of Lake
Superior was made in 1846, but o-^ving to the cost of trans-ship-
ment and transportation across the Portage at the Falls of St.
Mary's River, but little was done to develop them until the com-
pletion of the Saut Ste Marie ship canal, two years ago, which
gave a new and lively impetus to the business ; audit now forms
an important feature of the Lake iSuperior trade.
" The mines are situated from three to sixteen miles from
Marquette, a pleasant and thriving village of 1,000 inhabitants,
overlooking Lake Superior, located near the mouth of Carp
River, 140 miles above Saut Ste Marie.
" The mine nearest to the lake is the Eureka, about two and
a half miles from Marquette. The ore here is not so easily or
cheaply obtained as at the Sharon or Cleveland mountains, but
it is of surpassing richness, and yields an iron of the finest and
LAKE SUPERIOR 67
best, quality for cutlery, etc. It has not been worked so ex-
tensively as the others, but it is being prosecuted with vigor.
" The Jackson Iron Mountain, owned by the Sharon Company,
is situated li miles from ^Marquette ; and the Cleveland Moxmt-
ain, owned* by Wm. H. Gordon and others, of Cleveland, is two
miles beyond. A plank road, laid with flat iron rails, is in
operation from Marquette to both of these mines, and the ore
is transported in cars dr:iwn by horses and mubs. One span
of horses or mules will draw a car convainng five tons of ore,
and make one tr:p a day. The operative f orc'S at each of them
the present season are about equal, and thjy send to ^larquette
an aggregate of from 800 to l.CUO tons per week These mount-
nius ris^e gradually to a height of six or seven hundred feet, and
are a solid mass of iron ore, yielding from CO to 60 per cent, of
the best iron in the world.
" Two and a half miles beyond the Cleveland is the New
England Iron ?.Iountain, which is said to abound with ore of
equal richness and quality with the others, but as tlio railroad
is not yet completed to it, nothing has been done to develop it.
A mile or two farther on we reach the Burt Iron Mountain ;
but as they all bear so strong a resemblance to each other in
quantity, quality, and richness of ores, a description of one
answers for them all. That the iron of this region is inex-
haustible admits of no doubt, and that it is the richest and best
in the world has been clearly proved by analysis and practical
demonstration.
"The associates of the late Heman B. Ely, Esq., are con-
structing a substantial railroad from iMarquette to the Burt
Mountain, and a company has been formed to continue it on
to Wisconsin State-line. Six or eight miles of this road is com-
pleted, laid with heavy T rail, and a locomotive is running upon
it. The grading is nearly completed to the Jackson Mountain,
14 miles, and the iron will be laid this fall, or early in the
spring. The completion of this road will have a tendency to
reduce materially the price of ore at Marquette. It is now
held at $5 per ton, delivered en the wharf; it can then be sold
ac ^3 50, and yield as fair a profit as it now does at '^5.
'* The Sharon Iron Company have expended some $300,000
in the construction of a substantial breakwater and wharf,
cweive liundred feet long, at Marquette. The harbor is well
protected, except against an east wind, which blows directly
in : l)ut an expenditure of fifty thousand dollars, in extending
the breakAvater already constructed, would make it safe at all
times.
" In. 1818, two years after the discovery of iron, the first
bloom forge on Lake Superior was built by the .Jackson Iron
Company. It is situated aboat ten miles from Marquette, in
68 LAKE SUPERIOR.
the vicinity of the Jackson Mountain. It is a small affair,
haying only two fires, and as the machinery proved imperfect,
but little has been done with it.
" The second forge was built by the Marquette Iron Company
in 1850. located at the village of Marquette. This had four
fires, and was worked by steam. It was in successful operation
about eighteen months, when it was destroyed by fire, in 1852
" The third bloomery was built, in 1853, by Mr. M'Connell
It is situated on the Dead River, six miles from Marquette, has
two fires, and is worked by water-power.
" The fourth and most extensive and successful bloom forge,
on Lake Superior is that of the Collins Iron Company, situated
on Dead Kiver, three miles from Marquette. This was com-
pleted in 1855. It is worked by water-power, has eight fires,
and is capable of manufacturing 2,000 tons blooms per annum.
" Burt Mount uin is situated seventeen miles west from the
lake, and forms the present terminus of the I. M. R. R. The
surface indications of the iron ore at this point are of the first
class, of which we procured some fine specimens. It has not
yet been opened, yet those who understand such matters think
it will pay richly to work it. We did not find all the surface-
indications, yet what we did find contained but little jasper,
being mostly diamond, granulated, and slate ore. The weiglit
of it quite surprised us — we took hold of a piece about eight
inches square and three in thickness, thinking to lift it with
one hand, but our fingers slipped off as though it had been
oiled, and no attempt was made afterward to lift any but small
pieces. The bed of ore ^'hich we found lay within a few feet
of the railroad track, and could be loaded on to cars at a very
small expense. It will probably be opened as soon as the cars
are running to this point ; from this point we strike off nearly
south to Lake Angelina.
" Cleveland Mountain is sixteen miles from the lake, and
one mile east of the Burt jNlountain. This mine is now actively
worked, and sends down daily to the lake from forty to fifty
tons of good ore. Mr. D. P. Moore, the foreman of the mining
work, informed us they had some two hundred tons of ore ready
for transportation, and were constantly gaining upon the teams
that take it away. There are now about thirty men employed
at this mine constantly, and additions are expected soon. It
would be utterly impossible to give an adequate idea of the im-
mense amount of ore at this point — it lies piled up in huge
masses above the surface, and the depth of it can not be deter-
mined, but probably extends farther down than ever will be
dug to get it. Indeed, there is now enough upon the surface to
last for ages, to say nothing of other localities, to which this is
but a commencement. The miners have struck a bed of jasper,
LAKR SUPERIOR. 69
where tliey are no^ at work, on a I'JvjI Tvith the roa^l, which
will not be very profitable Avor king; yet this is no drawback
at all, for it is thought that below it is as good ore as any ob-
tainod. and even if there was none, there is enough above
ground, which can be got out cheaper than that. This the
company will probably do now, as when the work of mining
shall become thoroughly systematized, the cheaper ore can be
worked as profitably as the best can now. Yet this is not neces-
sary, as there is an unlimited amount of ore that yields from,
eighty to ninety per cent, of pure iron. There seems to be no
obstacle now in the way of the successful and profitable work-
ing of this mine.
" Jackson Aluun'ain, from the lake, is fourteen miles distant,
and east from the Cleveland ^Mountain to the place where the
miners are working, two miles. It will be seen at once, that
thousands of tons can be prepared with but little labor, wlien a
good face is cleaned oft" and ready for blasting. From Mr.
Zimmerman, the foreman of the mining operations, we learned
that the company have eleven men now at work excavating the
ore and preparing it for removal. It may not be amiss to re-
mark here, that the ore is broken up into a convenient size for
handling and shipping, at all the mines, before it is taken away.
They have now at the mines about five hundred tons ready for
transportation. The quantity carried to the lake as yet, this
season, is small, comparatively ; but Ave understand the com-
pany have just received a stock of mules, and will probably
commence the transportation of it on a large scale very soon.
Where the miners are now excavating, the surface exhibits a
thin layer of slaty rock, which, being removed, shows ore of the
best quality, except in a few small veins which contain some
jasper. The surface-indications upon the top of the mountain
exhibit a rather large proportion of jasper ; yet Avhere the side
has been faced doAvn it shows that it is only at the surface ;
what it may be on penetrating to the heart of the mountain it
is impossible to conjecture.
" The Eureka Mine is distant from the lake but tAVo and a
half miles, and but a short distance from the raihvay, AVxth
which it connects by a side track. Some difficulty has been
experienced here in getting out the ore, in consequence of the
veins being imbedded in the rock, but the work of excavating
has been persevered in, until it now promises well. The ore
improTes as it progresses doAvnward, and the veins grow Avider.
The close proximity of this mine to the lake gives it an ad-
vantage over those more distant, as the cost of transportation
will be materially lessened. There are many locations within
the district Avhich we passed over, that Ave did not visit. They
are not yet opened, and we did not think it proper to describe
70 LAKR SUPERIOR
them vintil they should be, and theii* value ascertained. Thid
will probably be done at no distant day." — Rtj)ort o/1856.
Carp and Dead rivers both flow into Lake Superior, near
Marquette, on each side of which there are rapids and falls of
great beauty, aifording good water-power. Chocolate River
also flows into the lake some two or three miles east of Marquette,
hut through a different geological formation.
On leaving Marquette, the steamer usually runs in a N.W.
direction, passing Presqu? Ih, Granite Point, and Granite
Island, the latter having two vertical walls of trap 20 feet
high and 12 feet apart, forming a good boat-harbor.
Stanahd's Rock, discovered by Captain Stanard in 18-35,
while in the employ of the American Fur Company, sailing
the schooner John Jacob Astor, is a solitary and dangerous
bare rocky projection, rising out of the lake, off the mouth of
Keweenaw Bay, in the route of the steamers on their way from
Marquette to Copper Harbor, 65 miles.
L'Anck is an excellent harbor, where is a small settlement,
situated at the head of Keweenaw Bay. A short distance north
are located a Roman Catholic and Methodist mission house and
church. The Catholic being on the west shore of the bay, and
the Methodist on the cast, both are surrounded by Indian
tribes and seitlv-mcn-S. This locality, at no distant day, must
become an important point, being favorably situated between
the iron and copper regions of Lake Superior.
Portage Extry, situated on the west shore of Keweenaw
Bay, about fifteen miles north of L'Ance, at the outlet of Port-
- age Lake, is a new and important place, from whence some of
the rich copper ore of this region is exported.
Portage Lake is an extensive and beautiful sheet of water,
(Extending to within half a mile of the entire breadth of tht
peninsula of Keweenaw Point, in the county of Houghton. It
receives a number of small streams, draining the rich copper
region of Lake Superior. No portion of the south shore of Lake
.'Superior exceeds this lake and its vicinity as a resort for hcaltL
and pleasure.
LAKE SUPERIOR. 71
Kewekxaw Poixt* is a large extent of land jutting out
into Lake Superior, from ten to twenty-five miles wide, and
about sixty miles in length. This section of country for up-
ward of 100 miles, running from southwest to northeast,
abounds in silver and copper ores, yielding immense quantities
of the latter ; much of it being pure native copper, but often in
such large masses as to render it almost impossible to be sepa-
rated for the purpose of transportation. Masses weighing from
] ,000 to 5,000 pounds are often sent forward to the Eastern
markets. The geological formation is very interesting, produ-
cing specimens of rare beauty and much value.
Maxitou Island lies off Keweenaw Point, on which is a
light-house to guide the mariner to and from Copper Harbor.
The island is about seven miles in length and four wide.
Copper Harbor, Houghton Co., Mich., situated on the north
shore of Keweenaw Point, 250 miles from the Saut, is one of
the best harbors on Lake Superior. The village contains about
600 inhabitants, a church, and two hotels, besides several stores
and storehouses. Fort Wilkins, formerly a U. S. military post,
has been converted into a hotel and water-cure establishment
for the accommodation of visitors and invalids.
The copper mines are from four to six miles back of the land-
ing, are very productive, and well worthy a visit.
Agate Harbor, ten miles west of Copper Harbor, is the
name of a small settlement. This port is not much frequented
as yet by steamers.
Eagle Harbor, 16 miles west of Copper Harbor, is a good
steamboat landing. Here is a good public-house, together with
several stores and storehouses. The mines are situated three
miles and upward from the landing.
* " On many maps spelled Keiceetcaiwona, and otherwise. Pronounced
by our Indians, ' Ki-wi-wai-non-ing,' now written and pronounced as
above; meaning a portage, or place where a portage is made — the
whole distance of some eighty or ninety miles around the Point being
saved by entering Portage Lake and following up a small stream, leaving
a portage of only about a half mile to Lake Superior on the other side." —
Foster and Whitney^s Report.
72 LAKE SUPERIOR.
Eagle River Harbor and village are favorably situated at
the mouth of a stream of the same name. Here is a thriving
settlement, it being the outlet of the celebrated Cliff and North
American Copper mines, two of the most successful copper min-
ing companies probably in this or any other country. Hera
the lamented Dr. Houghton was drowned, October, 1845, while
engaged in exploring this section of country — Keweenaw Point
and adjacent country being very appropriately named Hough-
ton County in honor of his memory.
The following is an account of the melancholy death of Pv
Houghton :
" By a friend direct from Lake Superior, we have the painful
intelligence of the death of Dr. Douglas Houghton, State Geolo-
gist of Michigan, who, with two voyageurs or half-breeds, was
drowned by the swamping of their boat on Lake Superior
during a storm on the 13th of October, 1845, as they were com-
ing down from a portage to Copper Harbor. They were
swamped about a mile and a half from Eagle River. Dv.
Houghton had been for some time engaged in a geological au^l
linear survey of the Copper Region for the Federal Government,
and was engaged in the discharge of this duty when he met
with his lamented end. He was about 50 years old, univer-
sally beloved by those who knew him, and had by years of pa-
tient toil and study acquired a knowledge of the ]Mineral Re-
gion which no living man possesses or can for years acquire.
His death is not only a sore blow to his family and numerous
» friends, but a public calamity. His body had not been recov-
ered on the 22d, when our informant left, though search had
been made for it. The body of one of his voyageurs (Pequette)
had been found, with a few pieces of the boat. There were fnir
with him at the time of the disaster, two of whom were hurled
by the waves upon the rocks, ten feet above the usual level of
the waters."
Ontonagon, Ontonagon Co., Mich., 336 miles from the Saut
Ste Marie, is advantageously situated at the mouth of the river
of the same name. The river is about 200 feet wide at its
mouth, with a sufficient depth of water over the bar for large
steamers. Here is being erected an extensive pier and break-
water. The village contains an Episcopal, a Presbyterian, and
a Roman Catholic church; three good hotels, the Bigelow
LAKE SUPERIOR. 73
House being tlie largest ; 2 steam saw- mills, and 10 or 12 stores
and storebouses, §nd about 1,500 inhabitants.
In this vicinity are located the Minnesota, the Norwich, the
National, the Rockland, and several other very productive cop-
per mines. The ore is found from 12 to 15 miles from the land-
ing, being imbedded in a range of high hills traversing Kewee-
naw Point from N.E. to S.W. for about 100 miles. Silver is
here found in small quantities, beautifully intermixed with the
copper ore, which abounds in great masses.
" During the month of July, 1856, the Minnesota Mine raised
152 tons 1,272 pounds of copper. One mass from this mine
weighed 7,122 pounds — the largest, we believe, yet sent from
that district.
" The Rockland raised in the same month 30 tons 848 pounds.
Some of the masses raised were the most beautiful and pure
which have ever been seen upon the lake."
LAKE SUPERIOR INTELLIGENCE.
"We have received a late copy of the Lake Superior Miner,
and condense from its columns some interesting intelligence
concerning Lake Superior matters.
" Ontonagon is said to be improving very rapidly, and the
Miner thinks it destined to become the most important point
on the lake shore. During 1856, some forty new buildings
were erected, various streets graded and planked, and a large
amount of real estate sold to actual settlers.
" The Minnesota Mine, fifteen miles from Ontonagon, shipped
iuring the year ending January 1, 1857, 3,718,403 pounds of
copper. Of this amount only 255,854 pounds was stamp work.
The copper will probably be found of a high purity. There are
now employed on the location, above and below ground, some
537 persons.
" The Rockland, National, Nebraska, and other mines, are
also reported as raising large quantities of copper.
" Great improvements have been made on the Ontonagon
harbor, and several new docks and piers erected.
'• All the mines are making preparations to ship copper
largely during the coming season, when ' lively times' are ex-
pected.
" It would be well for our Eastern merchants to open a larger
trade with Lake Superior, in which there is a good chance, if
we mistake not, for investments of a most profitable nature."
74
LAKE SUPERIOR.
COPPPEE MIXING MATTEES.
" The Minnesota has raised during the year ending Jan. 1st,
1857, 3,718,403 pounds of copper. They have built during the
year one very fins -warehouse and office, 25 by 60, an excellent
agent's house, a minister's house, and a new engine-house.
" The following is the product of the year 1856, by months
In that time the iSIinnesota leads the Cliff, in mine production,
by more than 200 tons, and we think the difference in ingot
copper will be still greater in favor of the former mine.
JaruiarT 31 8,1 77
Eebniarv 806,532
March 380,43S
April 818,311
Mav 305,117
June 303,123
July 305.272
August 80i',731
September 800.201
October 307,135
November S13.372
Becember 800,994
Total pounds, nett 3,718,403
Or 1,S59 tons 403 pounds.
" The Clijf raised, during the year preceding December 1,
1856, at which their fiscal year terminates, 3,291,229 pounds
of copper, or 1,654 tons and 1,239 pounds. They raised diiring
the preceding year a little less than 1.489 tons, which shows an
increase of about 149 tons in favor of the year just past.
" The following additional shipments were made by the
various mines on the Point during the last season. We can
only regret that we are not able to make the list complete a ;
present.
North America 645,498
Rockland 89«,1 SS
Connecticut 44,080
Central ] 05,487
Northwestern 30,683
Copper Falls, about 306,000
"This last-named mine shipped some pounds more than the
^ mount in the table.
" The following is the amount in round tons shipped from the
Portage Lake District.
Quincy 20
Pewabic 103
Isle Eoyale 293
Portage 101
Huron -2 i
La Pointe, La Pointe Co., Wis., situated on Madeline Island,
one of the group of the Twelve Apostles, 410 miles from the
Saut, and 83 miles from Superior City, is a highly important
place. It was early settled by the Jesuits and American Fur
Traders. The population consists of a mixture of Indians,
French Canadians, and Americans. In addition to its fur trade.
La Pointe J as long been the favorite resort of the " red man"
LAKE SUPERIOR. 75
and the " pale face;" the former will no doubt soon disappear,
as the spirit of speculation has entered this whole region of
country. Here, among the islands, are to be found some of the
best fishing-grounds for which Lake Superior is so justly famed.
The Twelve Apostles' Isles consist of the Madeline, Cap,
Line, Sugar, Oak, Otter, Bear, Eock, Cat, Ironwood, Outer,
and Presque Isle, besides a few smaller islands, being grouped
together a short distance off the mainland, presenting during
the summer months a most pictiu'esque and lovely appearance.
Hera are to be seen clay and sandstone cliffs rising from 100 to
200 feet above the waters, while most of the islands are clothed
with a rich foliage of forest trees.
Bayfield, La Pointe Co., Wis., three miles west of La Pointe,
has a good harbor. The village is situated on the mainland,
from whence it is proposed to build a railroad for a distance of
120 miles to the St. Croix Ptiver, terminating at a point where
the above river becomes navigable.
Ashland, 12 miles south of La Pointe, at the head of Chag-
wamegon Bay, is another new settlement no doubt destined to
rise to some importance, it having a very spacious and secure
harbor.
Maskeg River, a considerable stream, the outlet of several
small lakes, enters Lake Superior about 15 miles east of Ashland ,
some ten miles farther eastward enters Montreal River, form-
ing the boundary, in part, between the States of jVlichigan and
Wisconsin.
On proceeding from La Pointe westward, the steamer usually
passes around Point de Tour, ten miles north, and enters Fond
du Lac, a noble bay situated at the head of Lake Superior. It
may be said to be 50 miles long and 20 miles wide, abounding
in good fishing-grounds.
Superior, or Superior City, Douglass Co., Wis., is most
advantageously situated on a bay of Superior, at the west end
of the lake, near the mouth of St. Louis River. Here is a church,
two hotels, and ten or fifteen stores and storehouses, and about
1,500 inhabitants A small river called the Nemadji runs
76 LAKE SUPERIOR.
througli Superior, and enters into the bay. Perhaps no plac^j
on Lake Superior has commercial advantages equal to this town ;
its future is magnified almost beyond conception. The St. Croix
ind Superior Railroad is proposed to terminate at this place,
sxt^nding southward to Hudson on the St. Croix River, about
140 miles. Another railroad is proposed to extend westward
b the Sauk Rapids, on the Upper Mississippi, either from thii-
)lace or Portland, Min.
NOTES OF TRAVEL.
From a Correspondent of the Buffalo Courier.
Ontonagon — La Pointe — Superior City.
Dated, St. Paul, Minn., August, 1856.
*' On Sunday we attended church in Ontonagon, situated on
the south shore of Lake Superior. There are, I believe, four
congregations, viz., Presbyterian, Episcopalian, Methodist, and
Catholic. Their houses of worship bear the characteristics
of the place ; they are hasty but comfortable edifices, which, as
the place advances, must give way to more substantial and taste-
ful structures.
On ^londay the steamer " Lady Elgin" arrived, bound for
Superior City. AVe got on board about half-past three o'clock,
and left, without any poignant regret, the young, but ambitious
Ontonagon.
■ '• We arrived at La Pointe at ten o'clock in the evening, situ-
ated on the southern extremity of Madeline Island, the largest
of the group denominated the Apostles' Mands. La Pointe
has been a place of considerable importance as a fur-trading
post, and is still a common resort of the Indians desiring to sell
furs or obtain supplies. Speculators have seized upon it. ami
to believe their representations, it is about the only place of any
consequence upon the lake. How much of a village it is, or
how it is situated, the shades of night prevented me from observ-
ing. I watched, however, when a passenger came on board, and
observed his feet clogged with clay ; so I concluded that the
island had a clay soil.
"In the morning of the following day we found ourselvef
maneuvering to get into the harbor of Superior. This plact-
h:TS one of most beautiful natural harbors that I ever witnessed
The town is situated on the extreme end of Lake Superior, on a
gentle declivity overlooking the water. Immediately in front a
long, narrow strip of land shoots across, cutting off a commo
LAKE SUPERIOR. 77
dious and perfectly secure harbor. This natural breakwater
seems almost to have been placed there artificially, so exactly is
it adapted to its purpose. The harbor has but one fault, and
that is a serious one, yet which may be remedied by sufficient
outlay. Boats of a sufficient capacity to undergo the weather
of these lakes can not find sufficient depth of water, except in
narrow and confined channels of the bay. A dr edging-machine
kept at work here for a few months would, I believe, entirely
relieve it from these difficulties."
Vf AHBAGON is the name of a new town that has been laid out
on the Wisconsin side of the St. Louis Kiver, opposite to the
Indian village of Fond du Lac, and at the end of navigation on
the northern lakes and rivers. It is the farthest inland point
accessible by vessels from the ocean — being fourteen miles west
of Superior. It is said to })e the only point on the St. Louis
River that can be reached by roads from the south or west
without crossing the river.
Gordojm-, the name of a new town located on the line of the
St. Croix and Lake Superior Eailroad, and about midway be-
tween Superior and Hudson, is now attracting the attention of
capitalists.
Distances from Fond du L.a.c to St. Paul, Min.
Fo?j-d-du-Lac, (St. Louis River) Miles.
Pokagema, {Portage) 75
Falls St. Croix, {Canoe) 40 115
Marine Mills, {Steamboat) 19 134
Stillwater, " 11 145
St. Paul, {Stage) .- 18 163
Distance from Superior City to St. Cloud (Sauk Rapids),
by proposed railroad route, 120 miles. St. Cloud to St. Paul,
76 miles. Total, 196 miles.
Distances from Superior City to Pembina, Min.
Superior Miles.
Crow Wing 80
Otter Tail Lake 70 150
Rice River 74 224
Sand Hills River 70 294
Grand Fork, (Red River) 40 334
Pembina 80 414
FrQm St. Paul to Pembina, via Crow Wing 464 miles.
7*
78 LAKE SUPERIOR.
SUPEEIOPw CITY
The Superior Chronicle of the 20th of Jan., 1857, arrived by
mail a day or two since, and is pretty much taken up with a
' semi-annual reyiew of the town of Superior, Wisconsin.'
The statement is highly flattering to the enterprise of the cit-
izens, as well as to the natural advantages of the location — the
extreme western and northern point of lake navigation. The
number of inhabitants is about 1,500, being an increase in one
year of 900. The number of houses in June, 1866, 196, and in
January, 1857, 340.
There are in and round the town five saw-mills in operation.
Eight hundred thousand feet of lumber were imported, and one
million feet of lumber made by the mills. The Chronicle says :
" The lands granted to build a road from Hudson to Superior,
and from Superior to Bayfield, have passed into the hands of
the St. Croix and Lake Superior Railroad Company, and that
company have contracted with Messrs. Dillon, Jackson, Jarrett
& Co. for the construction and entire equipment of that portion
of the road between Superior and Hudson within two years from
the 4th of July next. These contractors are also obligated to
build a good wagon road from this place to the St. Croix River
this winter ; and also to complete, early next spring, an ex-
tensive pier and warehouse on the grounds of the company at
the mouth of the Nemadji River. About sixty men are em-
ployed in constructing the wagon road, and parties are pre-
paring the piles and timbers for the docks and warehouses
The contractors have about $10,000 worth of provisions and
supplies for next summer's operations distributed along this end
of the line. Next season the work on the road is to be com-
menced at three difierent points — Superior, Gordon, and Hud-
son ; and on this division one thousand men will be employed.
" The St. Croix and Lake Superior Railroad Company in-
tend erecting next spring a substantial dock and warehouse on
their depot grounds at the mouth of the Nemadji River. The
dock will be three hundred feet long by fifty wide, and the
warehouse one hundred and ten feet front by forty deep, tlie
timbers for which are now being got out, and the first install-
ment is to be delivered on the ground the present week.
" The proprietors of Superior are constructing a very ex-
tensive dock on the river bank opposite to the depot grounds of
the .railroad company. It commences on the bay front, about
seven hundred feet from the mouth of the river, and runs from
thence a distance of two thousand feet. It is to be fifty feet
"Wide, and connected with the mainland by a causeway over the
marsh at the foot of Robinson Avenue
LAKE SUPERIOR. 79
" A company to erect a Masonic Hall was organized last
summer, with a capital stock of S7,000. It was placed under
contract, and the work begun, but owing to the difficulty in
collecting assessments in consequence of the absence of many
of the stockholders, it was suspended until next spring. It is
proposed to erect a very large hotel in the vicinity of this Hall
next summer, at a cost of 880,000, but as the organization is
not perfected, we can make but a brief allusion to it.
'• Several years ago Congress made an appropriation of
$15,000 to build a light-house at this place ; but, like all other
matters intrusted to government officials, its commencement has
been unnecessarily delayed. It is under contract, and as the
limitation allowed for its completion will expire next fall, we
feel pretty sure that its construction will be commenced on the
opening of navigation.
" The arrivals at this port for the past three years bear the
following comparison :
Yea s.
1S54
Steaml)oats.
2 ....
Sailing Vessels.
5
T0t:ll.
.. 7
1S55
23 ....
10 ,.'....
.. m
1S56
40 ....
16
.. 56
" This table shows an increase in 1855 over 1854 of 2G ves-
sels, and an increase in 1856 over 1855 of 23 vessels."
Portland, St. Louis Co., i\Iin., advantageously situated at
fhe extreme west end of Lake Superior, seven miles N.W. from
Supei ior City, is a place of growing importance, where is a
good steamboat landing, with bold shore. This is the capital
of the county, and bids fair to be a successful competitor with
Superior City for the carrying trade of the Great West and
Pacific coa-st. Along the shore of the lake northward are to be
seen bold sandy bluffs and highlands, supposed to be rich in
mineral wealth.
Fond du Lac, St. Louis Co., Min., is situated on St. Louis
Ptiver, 20 miles above its entrance into Lake Superior. Vessels
of a large class ascend to this place, being within four miles of
■yie St. Louis Falls, having a descent of about 60 feet, affording
an immense water-power. Here are sandstone and slate quar-
ries, from which stone and slate are quarried, and extensively
used for building purposes. Iron and copper ore abound in the
vicinity. These advantages bid fair to make this point a mart
of commerce and manufacture.
80 LAKE SUPERIOR.
St. Louis Kiver, flowing into tlie S.TV. end of Lake Supe-
rior, is a large and important stream, and is navigable for
steamers and lake craft for upward of 20 miles from its mouth.
Above the falls (where the water has a descent of 60 feet, pre-
senting a beautiful appearance) , the river is navigable for canoes
and small craft for about 80 miles farther. This river is the
recipient of the waters of several small lakes lying almost due
north of its outlet, its head waters flowing south from near
Rainy Lake.
Clifton, St. Louis Co., I\Iin., situated 11 miles N,E. of the
head of Lake Superior, is a new settlement. In the vicinity
are rich copper mines and good farming lands.
BuRLiivGTOn" is another new settlement, situated northeast
of Clifton, possessing similar advantages.
ENCAMPMENT is the name of a river, island, and village,
where is a good harbor, the mouth of the river being protected
by the island. On the river, near its entrance into the lake,
are falls aifording fine water-power. Cliffs of greenstone are to
be seen, rising from 200 to 300 feet above the water's edge, pre-
senting a handsome appearance. To the north of Encampment,
along the lake shore, abound porphyry and greenstone. This
locality is noted for a great agitation of the magnetic needle ;
the depth of water in the vicinity is too great for vessels to
anchor, the shores being remarkably bold, and in some places
rise from 800 to 1,000 feet above the water.
Hiawatha is another new settlement, situated on the west
shore of Lake Superior, where is found copper ore and other
valuable minerals, precious stones, etc.
Grand Portage, Min., advantageously situated on a secure
bay, near the mouth of Pigeon River, is an old station of the
Amea-ican Fur Company. Here is a Roman Catholic Mission, a
block-house, and some 12 or 15 dwellings. Mountains from 800
to 1,000 feet Jire here seen rising abruptly from the water's
edge, presenting a bold and sublime appearance.
Pigeon Bay and River forms the northwest boundary
between the United States and Canada, or the Hudson Bay
LAKE SUPERIOR. 81
Company's territory. Pigeon River is but a second-class stream,
and by its junction with Arrow River continues the boundary
through Rainy Lake and River to the Lake of the Woods,
where the 40th degree of north latitude is reached. The mouth
of Pigeon River is about 48 degrees north latitude, and 89 de-
grees 30 minutes west from Greenwich.
Along the whole west shore of Lake Superior, from St. Louis
River to Pigeon River, are alternations of metamorphosed
schists and sandstone, with volcanic grits and other imbedded
traps and porphyry, with elevations rising from 800 to 1,200
feet above the lake, often presenting a grand appearance.
Pie Island, lying northeast of Grand Portage, is a large
island belonging to the British. Hills some 700 feet in height
are here to be seen, presenting a wild and romantic appearance,
being formed in part of green rock.
Thunder Cape is a bold promontory on the north, rising
1,350 feet above the waters of the lake; inside of this point
lies Thunder Bay, a large and picturesque sheet of water.
Isle Roy ale, Houghton Co., Mich., being about 45 miles in
length from N.E. to S.W., and from 8 to 12 miles in width, is
a rich and important island, abounding in copper ore and other
minerals, and also precious stones. The principal harbor and
only settlement is on Siskowlt ^iz^y,. being on the east shore of
the island, about 50 miles distant from Eagle Harbor, on the'
main shore of Michigan.
The other harbors are — Washington Harbor on the south-
west, Todd's harbor on the west, and Rock Harbor and Chip-
pewa Harbor on the northeast part of the island. In some
places on the west are perpendicular clifis of greenstone, very
bold, rising from the water's edge, while on the eastern shore
conglomerate rock or coarse sandstone abounds, vnth. occasional
stony beach. On this coast are many islets and rocks of sand-
stone., rendering navigation somewhat dangerous. Good fish-
ing grounds abound all around this island, which will, no
doubt, before many years, become a favorit-e summer resort for
the invalid and sportsman, as well as the scientific tourist.
82 LAKE SUPERIOR.
SisKowiT Lake is a considerable body of water lying near
tlie center of the island, "wMch apparently has no outlet. Other
small lakes and picturesque inlets and bays abound in all parta
'if the island. Hills, rising from 800 to 400 feet above the
Avaters of the lake, exist in many localities throughout the
island.
Fort William, an Hudson Bay Company's post, situated at
the mouth of Kaministequoi River, is a very important locality.
Besides the fort and Company's buildings, here is a Roman
Catholic Mission and some 200 resident inhabitants of a mixed
character, mostly in the employ of the gigantic Company, which
here holds undisputed sway. Here commences the Portage road
to Pembina and the Red River Settlement.
The Kaministequoi River is a large and rapid stream, with
a fall of about 200 feet perpendicular descent some SO miles
above its mouth. Canoes descended from this point in about
four hours ; but the ascent is long and tedious. The river is
represented as containing many beautiful rapids and islands,
also as abounding in fish of various kinds. It empties its pure
waters into Thunder Bay. The scenery around Thunder Bay
is very grand, the mountains, rising 1,000 feet and upward above
the surface of the water, have a very imposing effect.
Black Bay and River is another important locality, being
in part surrounded by high elevations, presenting a romantic
and picturesque appearance.
Neepigon Bay and River, situated at the north extremity
of Lake Superior, is a wild and almost unknown region of
country. The bay contains several islands, and the river is
represented as being a large and rapid stream rising far toward
the north, and from thence flowing through a wilderness of great
picturesque beauty.
RED RIVER OF THE NORTH. 83
EED EIVEE OF THE XOETH.
This interesting section of country being closely connected
mth tlie trade of the Upper Lakes, and attracting much atten-
tion at the present time, "we subjoin the foUomng extract from
"Minnesota and Dacotah," by C. C. Andrews — 1857 :
"It is common to say that settlements have not been extended
beyond Crow Wing, Min, This is only technically true. A few
facts in regard to the people who live four or five hundred miles
to the north will best illustrate the nature of the climate and
its adaptedness to agriculture.
'■There is a settlement at Pembina, where the dividing line
between British America and the United States crosses the
Red RiV'ir of the North. It didn't extend there from our fron-
tier, sure enough. If it extended from anywhere, it must have
been from the north, or along the confines of that mystic region
called ilainy Lake. Pembina is said to have about 609 inhab-
itants. It is situated on the Pembina River. It is an Indian-
French word meaning ' Cranberry.' Men live there who were
born there, and it is in fact an old settlement. It was founded
by British subjects, who thought they had located on British
soil. The greater part of its inhabitants are half-breeds, who
earn a comfortable livelihood in fur-hunting and farming. It
is 460 miles northwest of St. Paul, and 330 miles distant from
Crow Vving. Notwithstanding the distance, there is consider-
able communication between the places. West of Pembina,
about thirty miles, is a settlement called St. .Joseph, situated
near a large mythological body of water called Muiiwakin, or
Devil's Lake.
" Now let me say something about this Red River of the
North, for it is beginning to be a great feature in this upper
country. It runs north and empties into Lake Winnipeg, which
connects with Hudson Bay by Nelson River. It is a muddy and
sluggish stream, navigable to the mouth of the Sioux Wood
River for vessels of three feet draught for four months in the
year, so that the extent of its navigation mthin Minnesota
alone (between Pembina and the mouth of Sioux Wood River)
is 400 miles. Buffaloes still feed on its western banks. Its
tributaries are numerous and copious, abounding with the
choicest kind of game, and skirted with a various and beauti-
ful foliage. It can not be many years before this magnificent
valley (together with the Saskatchawan) shall pour its pro-
ducts into our markets, and be the theater of a busy and
genial life.
"Red River Settlement is seventy miles north of Pembina,
and lie? on both sides of the river. Its population is estimated
84 HUDSON BAY COMPANY.
at 10,000 souls. It owes its origin and growth to the enterprise
and success of the Hudson Bay Company. Many of the settlers
came from Scotland, hut the most were from Canada. They
speak EngHsh and Canadian French. The English style of
society is well kept up, whether we regard the church with its
bishop, the trader with his wine-cellar, the scholar with his
library, the ofi&cer with his sinecure, or their paper currency.
The great business of the settlement, of course, is the fur
traffic.
" An immense amount of buffalo skins is taken in summer
and autumn, while in the winter smaller but more valuable
furs are procured. The Indians also enlist in the hunts ; and
it is estimated that upward of $200,000 worth of furs are an-
nually taken from our territory and sold to the Hudson Bay
Company. It is high time indeed that a military post should
be established somewhere on Red River by our government.
" The 'Hudson Bay Company is now a powerful monopoly.
Not so magnificent and potent as the East India Company, it is
still a powerful combination, showering opulence on its members,
and reflecting a pecuhar feature in the strength and grandeur
of the British empire — a power^ which, to use the eloquent
language of Daniel Webster, ' has dotted over the whole surface
of the globe with her possessions and military posts, whose
morning drum-beat following the sun, and keeping company
with the hours, circles the earth daily with one continuous and
unbroken strain of martial music' The company is growing
richer every year, and its jurisdiction and its lands will soon
find an availability never dreamed of by its founders, unless, as
may possibly happen, popular sovereignty steps in to grasp
the fruits of its long apprenticeship."
The charter of the Hudson Bay Company expires, by its own
limitation, in 1860, and the question of annexing this vast
domain to Canada, or forming a separate province, is now
deepl}^ agitating the British public, both in Canada and in the
mother country.
THE HUDSON BAY COMPAITY'S CHAETEE.
From a Correspondent of the Toronto Globe, dated, July, 1856.
Sir — In the year 1670 Charles the Second created nine in-
dividuals a corporate body, and granted them a charter under
the style and title of the '• Hudson Bay Company."
" The preamble of 'Jie charter sets forth, ' that whereas cer-
HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 85
tain parties had at their own cost and charges undertaken an
expedition for Hudson Bay, for the discovery of a new passage
into the South Sea, and for finding some trade for furs, miaerals,
and other considerable commodities, etc. ; now know ye that we,
being desirous to promote all endeavors tending to the public
good and encourage the said design, have granted.'
" The words of the grant are these following :
*' ' We do give, grant, and confirm unto the said governor and
company, and their successors, the sole trade and commerce of
all those seas, straits, bays, rivers, lakes, creeks and sounds, in
whatsoever latitude they shall be, that lie within the entrance
of the strait commonly called Hudson Strait, together with
all the lands and territories upon the countries, coasts and con-
fines of the seas, bays, lakes, rivers, creeks and sounds aforesaid,
that are not already actually possessed by the subjects of any
other Christian prince or state ; with the fishery of all sorts of
fish, whales, sturgeon, and all royal fishes in the seas, bays,
inlets and rivers within the premises, and the fish therein taken,
together with the royalty of the sea upon the coasts within the
limits aforesaid, and all mines royal as well discovered as not
discovered, of gold, silver, gems and precious stones, to be found
or discovered within the territories, limits and places aforesaid ;
and that the said land be from henceforth reckoned and reputed
as one of our plantations or colonies in America called Ruperfs
Land. And furthermore we do grant unto the said governor
and company, and their successors, that they and their success-
ors, and their factors, servants, and agents for them, and on
their behalf, and not otherwise, shall forever hereafter have,
use and enjoy, not only the whole, entire and only trade and
traffic, and the whole, entire and only liberty, use and privilege,
of trading and trafficing to and from the territory, limits, and
places aforesaid, but also the whole and entire trade and traffic
to and from all havens, bays, creeks, rivers, lakes, and seas,
into which they shall find entrance or passage by water or land,
out of the territories, limits and places aforesaid, and to and
with all nations and people inhabiting or which shall inhabit
within the territories, limits and places aforesaid, and to and
with all other nations inhabiting any of the coasts adjacent to
the said territories, limits and places, which are not already
possessed as aforesaid, or whereof the sole liberty or priyilege of
trade or traffic is not yet granted to any other of our subjects.'
' Who can say what constituted Rupert's Land ; or where it
was supposed to be situated ? And who can undertake to ex-
plain or give a true construction of the meaning of the absurdly
vague and indefinite language in which the grant in question is
supposed to be made ?
" K this grant of land is worth any thing at all, or if it con-
8
86 HUDSON BAT COMPANY.
veys any estate -whatever to tlie Hudson Bay Company, it must
be confined to those islands lying loithin the entrance of the
strait, and can not be made to convey any other portion.
'• The entrance of the strait is from the Atlantic, and the
southern boundary of the strait is Labrador ; its coas^t can not
be said to be within the entrance of the strait, nor can Hudson
Bay, distant some 800 miles from that entrance, in the common
acceptation of the term, be said to be within the entrance of the
strait ; much less can the lands and shores of Hudson Bay be
said to lie loithin the entrance of the strait.
" If ever the claims of the Hudson Bay Company are brought
before a judicial tribunal for investigation, the interpretation
which shall be given this charter (if charter it is) will be in tlie
strictest and most limited sense, and not in the enlarged and
extended one which that Company have given to it.
" At all events, ' within the straif must mean such a prox-
imity to the strait as would give the lands spoken of an affinity
or relation to Hudson Strait, and not such lands as from their
immense distance have no such geographical affinity or relation
to that strait. In this case the nearest point to Hudson Bay
is 700 miles, nevertheless the Hudson Bay Company set up a
claim to 1,500 miles beyond this point — 2,200 miles from ivithin
the entrance of Hudson Strait.
" The immense extent of country claimed is not warranted
by any possible construction of the charter, and is wholl}'' in-
consistent with the objects of a trading company, who evidently
are not calculated to found kingdoms or establish states and
empires.
" Although Henry Hudson is supposed to be the discoverer
of Hudson Bay. for he sailed into the strait that now bears
his name in 1610, and perished there that year, nevertheless
France laid claim to all that territory as early as 1 598. In
that year letters patent were granted by Henry the 4th of
France to Sieur de la Roche, creating him Governor-General of
Canada, Hochelaga, Terres Nueves, Labrador, and the river of
the great Bay of Norrembegue.
•' On the 29th April, 1627, Louis the 13th granted a charter to
a company called ' Le Compagnie de la Nouvelle France,' to
which company was also -ranted the exclusive trade and pos-
session of the country called La JVouvcUe France, for a per.\>d
of fifteen years. Now the boundaries of ' La Nouvell.; France,'
as described at that time, include the whole of Hudson Strait
and Hudson Bay, and in fact all that country extending to the
Pa,cific Ocean which the Hudson Bay Company now claim.
"By the treity of Saint Gerinain-en-Laye in March, 1632,
Charles the 1st of England resigned to Louis the 13 th of France
*he sovereignty of Acadia, La JVouvelle France, and Canada.
HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 87
" Some time about 1663, according to Charlevoix, a party of
Englisii adventurers, guided by two French deserters, built a
trading establishment on Hudson Bay, and subsequently
erected two or three others. This act was regarded by France
as one of usurpation, and accordingly in 1686 an expedition was
sent from Canada under the command of Chevalier de Troyes,
who destroyed the establishments and drove away the possess-
ors, alleging that the country thus occupied by them was in the
dom.nions of ihe king of France. During the war that subse-
quently ensued between France and England, these places were
taken by the English, and retained until the treaty of Kyswick
in 16^6. ' By that treaty they were again restored to France,
and they remained in her possession until 1714, when by the
treaty of Utrecht the whole of the Hudson Bay countries were
ceded to England; since which period the whole country has
continued in her possession.
'■ Thus it is clear that at the time when Charles made the
grant to the Hudson Bay Company, it was not his to grant,
even if there had been no doubt as to his power. The treaty of
Kyswick actually destroyed the charter, by surrendering the
country to France ; and when by the treaty of Utrecht it was
ceded to England in 1714, that country came to the crown of
England clearly freed from any stipulations as to the reserva-
tion of any vested or other right whatever.
THE HUDSON BAY CO'SlFA^sY.
To tJie Editor of the Toronto Glole :
Sir — In a city paper, of the 29th ultimo, I have read -with
much pleasure some observations relative to the Hudson Bay
Company, and the charter under which that Company assume
an exclusive control over half a continent.
" The period has now arrived when Canada should assert her
right in relation to a matter of so important a nature, and in
which her vital interests are most deeply involved. And it is
time that her mercantile community should inquire by what
authority it is that a company, consisting of some two hundred
shareholders, in the city of London, claim the exclusive right to
trade oves' a country extending from the coast of Labrador on
the east to the Pacific Ocean on the west, and bounded on the
north only by the Arctic seas ? •
" When we know that this community of commercial adven-
turers draw their wealth and influence and power solely from
the traffic carried on within this immense circuit of country,
we are induced to ask, how does it happen that the mercantile
88 HUDSON BAY COMPANY.
community of Canada, liying, as it ■n'cre, "within the very sphere
of their action, are dead to all those commercial enterprises
which, for nearly a century past, has annually poured into the
coffers of this monopoly a copious shower of wealth ?
" The reply probably will be, 'It is not that our merchants
are unenterprising or unpatriotic — but as the Hudson Bay
Company posssss an exclusive right to trade throughout that
country, all others are by law prohibited.'
" While I admit that this is the general impression, I contend
that it is an impression designedly created and artfully main-
tained by the Hudson Bay Company, in order that they may
more securely profit by the monstrous imposture.
" There was a time when a company of Canadian merchants
successfully disputed the assumed claims of the Hudson Bay
Company.
" That which then was accomplished may now be done again.
" The Northwest Company of Montreal pushed their enter-
prises to an extent which this chartered one of Charles the
Second had never then attempted. And the Northwest Com-
pany carried these enterprises into effect at a time when the
means of transport were in its very infancy. The bark canoe
was the only conveyance by which merchandise was conveyed
from JMontreal, or by which the rich productions of even in
those times the mighty West were brought in return to that city.
"If we draw a comparison between the manner in which
that trade was carried on, and the mode in which it could now
be conducted, while we can not but admire the energy and the
enterprise of the merchants of that day, we must admit that
those of the present time are enabled to enjoy advantages which
the Northwest Company could not have dreamed of.
" Where the light canoe of former times could scarcely float,
or where these were obliged to discharge their cargoes and em-
bark them at the extremity of some portage, ships of one thou-
sand tons burden now float, and a ship navigation is now opened
from Montreal to half way across the continent ; instead of the
canoe timidly hugging the shores of the great lakes, the steamer
and propeller are now seen mid-lake pursuing their courses,
undeterred by wind or wave.
" The course of trade, as conducted in those days, required
two years' time to complete an order for goods sent by the trader
in the West. The usual time for dispatching such orders was
in the autumn, when the canoes were about to return for Mon-
treal. Sometimes these orders did not arrive in time to be for-
warded by the fall ships to England, in which case they had to
lay over for the spring ships, or rather summer. When the
goods arrived in the spring at Montreal, they were then em-
baiked in canoes, and reached Lake Nippising via the Ottawa
HUDSON BAT COMPANY. 89
Kiver ; from Lake Nippising they readied Lake Huron by tlie
French River, thence along Lake Huron to the Ste Marie Kiver
to Lake Superior ; and coasting Lake Superior they reached the
Kaministequoi., up the Kaministequoi to Lac la Pluie, down Lac
la Pluie and the La Pluie Pdver to the Lake of the Woods,
^long the Lake of the Woods to the Winnipeg, thence to Lake
Winnipeg, around Lake Winnipeg to the Saskatchawan River,
by it to Great Slave Lake, thence to the plains of Athabasca,
and across the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean, making
the distance thus traveled over 4,000 miles, and having to un-
load and reload their canoes at innumerable portages between
Montreal and the place of their destination. In conducting
this traffic 500 French voyageurs were employed, and in ad-
dition to these were the numerous hunters and traders engaged
in the service of this Company, in all, perhaps, to the number
of 2,C'00 or more. And these men were all inhabitants of Can-
ada who were thus early engaged in developing the rich pro-
ductions of their country, and Canada at large was benefited
by the trade, for the wealth it brought was freely fluug back
to circulate through those various industrial pursuits of life
which a trade like this had called into action.
" Had the Northwest Company continued in existence, there
is no doubt but the country along the great Lakes Huron and
Superior would not now be the ' terra incognita' that it is ;
the portals leading to the West, such as the Kaministequoi and
Pigeon rivers, would not have been closed, as it were, under
lock and key, but the voyageurs making these the thoroughfare
of their traffic would have speedily opened out the country to
population and production, other traders or merchants would
have followed in their wake, and settlements would have sprung
up along the channel down which this vast and important trade
was conducted, by Canadian enterprise alone. The waters and
the woods that were then enlivened by the stir and bustle of
these active and enterprising merchants, and cheered by the
lively songs of the happy voyageur, are now silent and desert-
ed ; for the whole of the trade of that western country is now
directed to the shores of Hudson Bay, there to be stowed in
Hudson Bay Company's ships for the city of London.
" Some idea may be formed of the magnitude of the trade of
the Northwest Company by these facts. In four years from the
time of the formation of that Company, the net return of the
profits of that year was £50,000, a sum of money which ex-
ceeded the original capital invested. In three years afterward,
the annual net profits had amounted to £150,000; and each
ensuing year these profits were annually increasing, until the
contests of the two companies led to open warfare, and this
resulted in a union of interests.
8*
90 HUDSON BAT COMPANY.
" The Hudson Bay Company, ho-wever, had in fact "been driven
from all commercial rivalry, and it was only when they found
that neither fraud nor force in Canada, nor courtly favor, nor
parliamentary influence in England, could succeed in driving
the Northwest Company from their pretended teniture, they
offered to compromise their disputes, and proposed to share
with the Northwest Company of Montreal their imaginary
privileges, in order that all other adventurers to that country
should be excluded a participation in the spoils.
" Ifc was thus that the Hudson Bay Company bribed the rivals
whom they could not defeat, and the Northwest Company sub-
scribed to the existence of claims or rights which they had
heretofore defied and disputed, fortified by the opinions of such
men as Lord Brougham, Sir Vickery Gibbs, Sir Arthur Pigot,
Mr. Sponkie, jMr. Braidoft, and others.
" Had the Hudson Bay Company dared to test the validity of
their charter in a court of law, it would have been proclaimed
to the world that every British subject had a right to trade
and traffic, unfettered and uncontrolled, throughout that coun-
try, for that the Koyal Charter under which the Hudson Bay
Company claimed exclusive privileges there was illegal, was
null and void.
" By changing the route of transport to and from the West,
the shorter and better one, via the Lakes, became unfrequented,
and its very existence almost forgotten, and the now limited
companies traded without the apprehension of exciting the
rivalry of others.
" Their trade was kept a secret — no one witnessed the pass-
age of imports upward, nor the productions downward from
hunting-grounds, claimed by a company irresponsible to any
law, or to any country. So secret even now are all the opera-
tions of that Company, that the fiu-s taken within ninety miles
of Penetanguishene are transported to Lake Superior, thence
to Hudson Bay for shipment to London.
" The very productions of our own country are sold here in
Toronto, after having been purchased at the Hudson Bay House
in London by our merchants.
'f The very employes of the Hudson Bay Company, who are
engaged in the Orkney Islands at low wages, are taken to Lake
Superior via Hudson Bay, lest these men should learn that they
could engage elsewhere at higher wages, which they would do
if taken to Lake Superior via the St. Lawrence route. Within
these few years past, since the mining interests have awakened
attention to Lake Superior, these men frequently leave the em-
ployment of the Hudson Bay Company, and such acts are de-
nominated by the Company's agents ' desertion,' and they are
often arbitrarily imprisoned.
HUDSON BAT COMPANY. 91
'* With tliis introduction, which, is very far from being such
as the merits of the subject require, let me now ask your read-
ers to take the map of North America, trace the lines of that
section of British Xorth America styled Canada, containing
about 350,000 square miles, then compare it mth that which is
denominated the Territories of the Hudson Bay Company, this
portion will be found to comprise ahont four millions of square
miles, and to this must be added very large portions of Canada
which for years past have been subjected to the despotic control
and blighting influences of this monstrous monopoly.
" Two hundred stockliolders hi London, without a single
bond or tie of any nature to the true interests of Canada, claim
to hold four millions of square miles in British Amei'ica as
their hunting-grounds. Of these four millions of square miles,
one million four hundred thousand abound in all those mate-
rials which can contribute to agricultural and to natural
wealth. Before, however, entering upon the subject of the
capabilities and advantages which those sections of our coun-
try for agricultural, mechanical, and mercantile pursuits pos-
sess, I propose to show what, in fact, is this supposed charter
of the Hudson Bay Company Huron."
" HuDsox Bay, or Sea, was discovered by Henry Hudson
in 1610. It is about 900 miles in length, by 600 at its greatest
breadth, with a surrounding coast of 3,000 miles. It lies be-
tween the parallels of 51° and 65° north latitude, and in ex-
tent is about six times as large as Lake Superior. The coasts
are generally high, rocky, rugged, and sometimes precipitous.
The bay is navigable for a few months in summer, but for the
greater part of the remainder of the year is filled up with
fields of ice. The transitions of the thermometer in summer are
from 100° to 40^^ in two days, and the torrents of rain are sur-
prising ; the range of the thermometer throughout the year is
140°. The sea is entered by Hudson Strait, on the northeast,
which is about 500 miles long, with a varying breadth, and
with an intricate navigation obstructed by several islands. The
principal bays and inlets in this great inland sea are, James'
Bay, on the southeast, which is 24(1- miles long by 140 wide ;
Button's Bay and Port Nelson on the western coast, and Ches-
terfield Inlet on the northwest, which, after stretching far into
the interior, terminates in a fresh-water lake." — Hudson Bay
Territories, by R. M. Martin. Esq.
92 LAKE SUPERIOR.
Ste IjsNACE Island is a large and bold extent of land lying
on the north shore of Lake Superior, forming, ynth. other islands,
the outward barrier to Neepigon Bay. Here may be seen
mountains rising from 1,000 to 1,300 feet above the lake. Cop-
per and other minerals abound in this region.
The Slate Islat^ds, lying east of Ste Ignace, are also largo
bodies of land, lying some 10 or 12 miles south of the main
shore, Tvhich is bold and precipitous, and supposed to abound
with copper ore and other minerals.
Pic Island and River lie still farther east. At the mouth
of the river is situated a post of the Hudson Bay Company.
This is a large stream, affording six feet of water over the bar
at its mouth.
MiCHipicoTEiv IsLAKTD is a large and bold body of land; in
some places the surface rises 800 feet above the waters of the
lake. The shores abound with greenstone and amygdaloid,
while in the interior is found copper and silver ores. Here was
located the Lake Superior Silver Mining Company of Canada.
]\IiCHiPicoTEw Harbor and River is another favorable
and important locality. The river is navigable to the falls, 15
miles. It rises near the source of Moose River, which empties
into James' Bay.
In this vicinity are found iron and copper ore of good quality.
At the mouth of the river is situated a post of the Hudson Bay
Company, from whence the Portage road extends northward
about 300 miles to James' Bay, on the south end of Hudson
Bay.
This road has been traveled in six days from Lake Superior
to Moose Fort, situated on James' Bay, although the usual time
is from eight to ten days. A chain of forts or trading-houses
is passed along this line, situated for the most part on Moose
River, emptying into the head of James' Bay, near 52° N. lat.
The time, no doubt, will soon arrive, when the Canadian public
■wiU claim this route for the purpose of trade and commerce, it
forming a most direct comniunication between the Arctio
Ocean, Hudson Bay, Lake Superior, and the lower lakes.
LAKE SUPERIOR. 93
Montreal Island and Eiver is another locality south of
Rlichipicoten, "which abounds in minerals of different kinds.
Caribou i%a small island lying about 30 miles south of
Michipicoten, near the middle of the lake. It is usually passed
in sight when the steamers return along the north shore on
pleasure excursions
In order to give an idea of these magnificent excursions, we
copy the following advertisement which appeared in a Cleveland
paper in August, 1856 :
Two Grand Pleasure Excursions around Lake Superior.
The new, staunch, upper-cabin and low-pressure steamer
Planet, Capt. Joseph Nicholson, will make two pleasure excur-
sions to Lake Superior, as follows :
First. — Leave Cleveland on Monday, August 18th, and De-
troit on Tuesday, August 19th. Second. — Leave Cleveland on
Thursday, August 28th, and Detroit on Friday, August 29th ;
touching at Mackinac, passing through the Saut Ste Marie
Canal, and also pass in view the Pictured Rocks and Grand
Island by daylight; visit Marquette (the iron region), Cop-
per Harbor, Eagle Harbor, Eagle River, Ontonagon (the
copper region). La Pointe (the fairy region) — thence passing
over to Pigeon Bay, Prince's Bay, Pie Island, and Isle Royale,
on the north- shore, and returning by the south shore. A fine
view of the Michipicoten and Caribou islands is also obtained.
The Planet is new, 1,200 tons burden, low-pressure engine
of 1,000 horse-power; has an upper cabin 210 feet long, and
splendid accommodations for 300 passengers, but on these trips,
that they may be in fact, as well as in name. Pleasure Excur-
sions, the number will be limited to 175.
A good band of music will be in attefidance to enliven the
scene, and no expense will be spared to make these excursions
the most agreeable that have been made to Lake Superior.
The price of tickets for the excursion round will be Forty
Dollars from Cleveland, and Thirty-six Dollars from Detroit.
Those wishing to remain over one trip can do so, and return
the second trip ot the Planet, without extra charge.
E. B. Ward, Detroit.
94 LAKE SUPERIOR,.
NORTHEEJ^ SHORE OF LAKE SUPEEIOR.
Extract from Report on the Geology of the Lake Su'perior
Counti-y, by Foster and Whitivey : •
NoRTHT^.RN Shor^. — " Beginning at Pigeon Bay, the bound-
ary between the United States and the British Pcssessiona
(north latitude 48°), we find the eastern portion of <he penin-
sula abounds with bold, rocky cliifs, consisting of trap and red
granite.
'•The Falls of Pigeon Pviver, eighty or ninety feet in ho'ght,
are occasioned by a trap dyke which cuts through a series of
slate rocks highly indurated, and very similar in mineralogical
characters to the old graywacke group. Trap dykes and in-
terlaminated masses of traps "were observed in the plate near
the f=ills.
" The base of neaidy all the ridges and cliffs between Pigeon
River and Fort William (situated at the mouth of Kaministequoi
River, the western boundary of Upper Canada) is made up of
these slates, and the overlaying trap. Some of the low islands
exhibit only the gray grits and slates. Welcome Islands, in
Thunder. Bay, display no traps, although, in the distance, they
resemble igneous products, the joints being more obvious than
the planes of stratification, thus giving a rude semi-columnar
aspect to the cliffs.
" At Prince's Bay, and also along the chain of islands which
lines the coast, including Spar, Victoria, and Pie islands, the
slates with the crowning traps are admirably displayed. At
the British and North American Company's works the slates
are traversed by a heavy vein of calc-spar and amethystine
quartz, yielding gray sulphuret and pyritous copper and
galena. From the vein where it cuts the overlaying trap on
the main shore, considerable silver has been extracted.
" At Thunder Cape, the slates form one of the most pictur-
esque headlands on the whole coast of Lake Superior. They
arc made up of variously colored beds, such as compose the up-
per group of Mr. Logan, and repose in a nearly horizontal po-
sition. These detrital rocks attain a thickness of nearly a
thousand feet, and are crowned with a sheet of trappean rocks,
three hundred feet in thiclaiess.
'• At L'Anse a la Bouteille (opposite the Slate Islands, on the
north shore of Lake Superior) the slates re-appear, with the
granite protruding through them, and occupy the coast for fif-
teen miles; numerous dykes of greenstone, bearing east and
west, are seen cutting the rocks vertically. The Slate Islands
form a part of this group, and derive their name from their
geological structure
LAKE SUPERIOR. 95
" Tliey are next seen, according to Mr. Logan, for about
seven miles on each side of the Old Pic River. Near Ottei'liead
a gne'ssoidal rock forms the coast, which presents a remarkable
regular set of strata, in vrhich the constituents of syenite are
arranged in thin sheets and in a highly crystalline condition.
From this point to the Michipicoten River the slates and gran-
ite occupy alternate reaches, along the coast, for the distance
of fifty miles. ' With the exception of a few square miles of
the upper trap of gargantua, these two rocks appear to hold
the coast all the way to the vicinity of Pointe aux Mine, at the
extremity of which they separate from the shore, maintaining
a nearly straight southeasterly line across the Batchewanung
Bay, leaving the trap of Mamainse between them and the lake.
Thsnce they reach the northern part of Goulais Bay, and
finally attain the promontory of Gros Cap, where they consti-
tute a moderately bold range of hills, running eastwardly
toward Lake Huron.' "*
FISHEEIE3 OF LAKE SUPEEIOE.
Good fishing-grounds occur all along the north shore of Lake
Superior, afibrding a bountiful supply of white fish, Mackinac
trout, and many other species of the finny tribe. On the south
Bhore there are fisheries at White Fish Point, Grand Island, near
the Pictured Rocks, Keweenaw Point, La Pointe, and Apostles'
Islands, and at different stations on Isle Royale, where large
quantities are taken and exported ; but there are no reliable
statistics as to the number of men employed or the niimber of
barrels exported. Between the head of Keweenaw Point and
tlie mouth of the Ontonagon River, considerable quantities of
fish are taken, for which there is a ready market at the mining
stations. In addition to the white fish and Mackinac trout, the
siskawit is occasionally taken. Its favorite resort, however, is
the deep water in the vicinity of Isle Royale.
Lake Superior Trout-Fishing in Winter. — The Lake
Superior Journal says :
" x\ngling through the ice to a depth of thirty fathoms of
* Canadian Eepart, 1846-T.
96 LAKE SUPERIOR.
water is a novel mode of fishing somewliat peculiar to this
peculiar region of the vrorld. It is carrying the war into fish-
dom with a vengeance, and is denounced, no doubt, in the com-
munities on the bottom of these northern lakes as a scaly piece
of warfare. The large and splendid salmon-trout of these
waters have no peace ; in the summer they are enticed into the
deceitful meshes of the gill-net, and in the winter, when they
hide themselves in the deep caverns of the lakes, with fifty
fathoms of water above their heads, and a defense of ice two
or three feet in thickness on the top of that, they are tempted
to destruction by the fatal hook.
" Large numbers of these trout are caught every winter in
this way on Lake Superior ; the Indian, always skilled in the
fishing business, knows exactly where to find them and how to
kill them. The whites make excursions out on the lake in
pleasant weather to enjoy this sport. There is a favorite resort
for both fish and fishermen near Gros Cap, at the entrance of
Lake Superior, through the rocky gateway between Gros Cap
and Point Iroquois, about 18 miles above the Saut, and many a
large trout, at this pomt, is pulled up from its warm bed at the
bottom of the lake, in winter, and made to bite the cold ice in
this upper world. To see one of these fine fish, four or five feet
in length, and weighing half as much as a man, floimdering on
the snow and ice, weltering and freezing to death in its own
blood, oftentimes moves the heart of the fisherman to expres-
sions of pity.
" The modus operandi in this kind of great trout-fishing is
novel in the extreme, and could a stranger to the business over-
look at a distance a party engaged in the sport, he would cer-
tainly think they were mad, or each one making foot-races
against time. A hole is made through the ice, smooth and
round, and the fisherman drops down his large hook, baited
with a small herring, pork, or other meat, and when he ascer-
tains the right depth, he waits — with fisherman's luck — some
time for a bite, which in this case is a pull altogether, for the
fisherman throws the line over his shoulder, and walks from the
hole at the top of his speed till the fish bounds out on the ice.
We have known of as many as fifty of these splendid trout
caught in tliis way by a single fisherman in a single day ; it is
thus a great source of pleasm'e and a valuable resource of food,
especially in Lent, and the most scrupulous anti-pork believers
might here ' iown pork and up fish' «nithout any offense to con-
science."
CHICAGO.
The City of Chicago is advantageously situated on the west
s'de of Late Michigan, at the mouth of Chicago River, in N.
lat. 41° 52', and W. long, from Greenwich 87° 35'. It is ele-
vated six to eight feet above the lake, which secures it from
ordiaary floods, and extends westward on both sides of the
river, about two miles distant from its entrance into Lake
Michigan, the front on the lake being three or four miles from
north to south. The tarbor has a depth of from twelve to four-
teen feet of water, which makes it a commodious and safe
haven ; and it has been much improved artificially by the con-
struction of piers, which extend on each side of the entrance of
the river for some distance into the lake, to prevent the accu-
mu tation of sand upon the bar. The light-house is on the south
side of the harbor, and shows a fixed light on a tower forty feet
above the surface of the lake ; there is also a beacon-light on
the end of the pier. In a naval and military point of view,
this is one of the most important ports on the upper lakes, and
should be strongly defended, it being the " Odessa" of these
inland seas.
The city contains a court-house, the county buildings, Rush
INIedical College, a commercial college, a marine hospital, a
United States land-ofl&ce, market houses, sixty churches, eight
banks, several fire and marine insurance companies, and a
number of large hotels ; gas-works, and water-works. The
manufacturrag establishments of Chicago are numerous and
extensive, consisting of iron-foundries and machine shops, rail-
road car manufactory, steam saw, planing, and flouring mills,
manufactories of agricultural implements, etc. Numerous
steamers and propellers ply between this place and Satit Ste
Marie, Lake Superior ports, CoUingwood, Detroit, Buffalo, and
the various intermediate ports. Estimated population in. 1856,
100,000.
9
98 CHICAGO.
The inhiois and Michigan Canal, connecting Lake Michiga.h
with Illinois River, which is 60 feet wide at the top, 6 feet deep
and 107 miles in length, including five miles of river navigation,
terminates here, through which is brought a large amount of
produce from the south and southwest; and the numerous rail-
roads radiating from Chicago add to the vast accumulation
which is here shipped for the Atlantic sea-board. Chicagc
being within a short distance of the most extensive coal-fields
to be found in Illinois, and the pineries of ]\Iichigan and ^Yis
consin, as well as surrounded by the finest grain region on the
face of the globe, makes it the natural outkt for the varied and
rich produce of an immense section of fertile country.
EAILEOADS DIVEEGING FEOM CHICAGO.
Miles.
1. Chicago and Milwaukee 55
2. Chicago, St. Paul and Fond du Lac* o'lO
3. Fox iliver Yalley and Wisconsin Central* 75
4. Galena and Chicago Union, (to Dunleith) Ibb
Beloit Branch, and Beloit and ^ladison.
5. Chicago, Fulton and Iowa Air Line 1S6
6. Chicago, Burlington and Quincy 210
7. Chicago and Rock Island 182
8. Chicago, Alton and St. Louis 290
9. Illinois Central — Chicago Branchf Sito
10. Pittsburgh, Foi't Wayne and Chicago* 470
11. Cincinnati, Peru and Chicago* 87
12. Michigan Southern and Northern Indiana 247
13. Michigan Central (and New Albany and Salem). . . . 282
Total 2.'J97
* Unflnished railroads.
T At this time the Illinois Central Eailroad is the means of connecting
Chicago with Cairo and St. Louis on the south, and with Galena and
Dunleith on the west, forming a total line of road of 722 miles, as follows'
ILLIXOIS CEKTEAL EAILKOAD — AXD ITS BEAXCHES.
Cairo to Lasalle — Main Line 80S mllei .
Lasalle to Dunleith— Galena Branch 147 "
Chicago to Centralia— Chicago Branch 2G7 "
Total 722 miles.
CHICAGO. 99
PKOGEESS OF CHICAGO AXD THE GEEAT WEST.
" Twenty years ago the city of Chicago, Illinois, was an in-
significant town at the southern end of Lake Michigan ; now,
her granaries, her storehouses, her railroad depots, and her
private dwellings are scarcely surpassed hy those of any city
in the Union for their solidity, enormous dimensions, and their
unexampled cost, giving evidence of rapid wealth, caused by
her lake commerce and her railroad concentrations.
" The ' Democratic Press' of that city has just made up its
annual statistical statement of the progress of Chicago, and from
it we copy the annexed statistics, which the editor says may be
relied on. It is headed ' Fifth annual review of the prospects,
condition, traffic, etc., of the railroads centering in Chicago,
with a general sumfhary of the business of the city for 1856.'
GENERAL SUMMARY.
Total number of miles of railway in the State of
Illinois now in operation 2,761
Increase in 1856 351
Increase in the State in five years (over 500 miles
per year) 2,666
Total earnings of all the railways centering in Chi-
cago for the year 1856 $17,84.3,242
Increase of 1856 over 1855 84,045,041
Population of Chicago in 1850 29,963
in 1852 38,783
'' in 1854 74,500
in 1855 82,750
" « January 1, 1857 (estimated) 110,000
Total receipts of grain in Chicago for the year 1855,
bushels 20,487,953
Total receipts of grain, being the largest primai-y
grain port in the world, for the year 1856 (in-
crease in 1856 over 20 per cent.), bushels 24,674,824
Total shipments of grain from the port of Chicago
for the year 1856, bushels 21,583,221
Total amount of corn received in 1856, bushels. . . . 11,888,&98
Total amount of wheat received in 1856, bushels . . 9,392,365
Total number of hogs, alive and dressed, received
in Chicago for 1855-56 ' 308,539
Total number of shipments, alive and dressed 170,831
Averaging the weight at only 200 pounds, and the
price at §5 per hundred, the value of the hogs
received would be $3,585,880
Number of barrels o* beef packed in 1856 33,038
100 CHICAGO.
Receipts of lumber at the port of Chicago for the
year 1850, being the largest lumber market in
the world, feet 456,673,169
Receipts of lead for the year 1856, pounds 9,527,506
Now laid up in the port of Chicago, steamers and
sail vessels 245
Total number of vessels arriving in Chicago for the
year 1856 7,328
Total tonnage of vessels arriving in this port for the
year 1856 1,545,379
Amount of imposts received at the Chicago custom-
house on foreign goods for the past year $102,994
Total amount of capital invested in manufactures
during the year 1856, showing an increase of
$1,464,400 over 1855 $7,759,400
Total number of hands employed, showing an in-
crease over 1855 of 1,838 10,573
Total value of manufactured articles, showing an
increase of $4,483,572 $15,515,003
Total amount invested during the year 1856 in im-
provements, stores, dwellings, hotels, etc., show-
ing an increase over 1855 of 81,973,370 $5,708,624
Total number of passengers carried west by four
principal railways leading out of Chicago 639,666
Total number remaining west above those who re-
turned on these four lines 107,653
Total number of passengers moved on all the roads
centering in Chicago 3,850,000
" The editor remarks, in conclusion : ' The total movement
on the principal railway lines centering at Chicago waald be
about 3,350,000 passengers.
" The above facts and figures will be regarded with special
satisfaction by all our citizens, and by the people of the North-
west generally. They show a healthy, but rapid and most
astonishing progress. It may be doubted whether the whole
history of the civilized world can furnish a parallel to the vig-
orous growth and rapid development of the country which has
Chicago for its commercial metropolis. When it is remembered
that twenty years ago she was not an incorporated city, and
less than a quarter of a century since the Indians still had
possession of the largest portion of this magnificent country,
these facts, stubborn and incontestable though they be, seem
more like the dreams of some vagrant imagination than sober
matters of reality, which scores of men still among us have
themselves seen and realized."
PORTS OF LAKE MICHIGAN. 101
POETS OF LAKE MICHIGAN LYING- ON THE EAST AND
SOUTH SHOEES.
Michigan City, Ind., situated at the extreme south end of
Lake Michigan, is distant 45 miles from Chicago by water, and
228 miles from Detroit by railroad route. The JS^cw Albany
and Salem Railroad, 228 miles in length, terminates at this
place, connecting with the Michigan Central Railroad. Sev-
eral plank roads also terminate here, affording facilities for
crossing the extefesive prairies lying in the rear. Here a.ro
several large storehouses situated at the mouth of Trail Creek,
intended for the storage and shipment of wheat and other pro-
duce; 15 or 20 stores of diiferent kinds, several hotels, and
a branch of the State Bank of Indiana. It was first settled in
1831, with the expectation that it would become a great em-
porium of trade ; but owing to the want of a good harbor, and
the rapid increase of Chicago, the expectation of its founders
have not been realized. It now contains about 3,000' inhab-
itants, and is steadily increasing in wealth and numbers.
New Buffalo, Mich., lying 50 miles east Chicago by steam-
boat route, is situated on the line of the Michigan Central Rail-
road, 218 miles west of Detroit. Here has been erected a light-
house and pier, the latter affording a good landing for steamers
and lake craft. The settlement contains two or three hundred
inhabitants, and several stores and storehouses. It is sur-
rounded by a light, sandy soil, which abounds all along the
east and south shores of Lake Michigan,
St. Joseph, Berrien Co., Mich., is advantageously situated
on the east shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of St. Joseph
River, 194 miles west of Detroit. Here is a good harbor, afford-
ing about 10 feet of water. The village contains about 1,000
inhabitants, and a number of stores and storehouses. An
active trade in lumber, grain, and fruit is carried on at this
place, mostly with the Chicago market, it being distant about
70 miles by water. Steamers of a small class run from St.
9*
102 PORTS OF LAKE MICHIGAN.
Joseph to Niles and Constantine, a distance of 120 miles, to
wliicli place the St. Joseph River is navigable. Stages also run
to Niles and Dowagiac, connecting with trains on the Michigan
Central E,ailroad.
St. Joseph River rises in the southern portion of Michigan
and Northern Indiana, and is about 250 miles long. Its general
coui-^e is nearly westward ; is very sei'pentine, with an equable
current, and flowing through a fertile section of country. There
are to be found several flourishing villages on its banks. Tho
principal are Constantine, Elkhart, South Bend, Niles, and
Berrien.
Niles, situated on St. Joseph River, is 26 miles above its
mouth by land, and 191 miles from Detroit by railroad route.
This is a flourishing village, containing about 3,000 inhab-
itants, five churches, three hotels, several large stores and flour-
ing mills ; the country around producing large quantities of
wheat and other kinds of grain. A small class of steamers run
to St. Joseph below and other places above, on the rivea% afibrd-
ing great facilities to trade in this section of country.
The Ports extending from Grand Haven to Saginaw Bay are
fully described in another portion of this work, as well as the
bays and rivers falling into Lakes Michisran and Huvoti
TRIP FROM CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE
MARIE.
Ojy starting from the steamboat wharf near the mouth of the
Chicago River, the Marine Hospital and depot of the Illinois
Central Railroad are passed on the right, while the Lake House
and lumber-yards are seen on the left or north side of the
stream. The government piers, long wooden structures, afford
a good entrance to the harbor; a light-house has been con-
structed on the outer end of the north pier, to guide vessels to
the port.
The basin completed by the Hlinois Central Railroad to facili-
tate commerce is a substantial work, extending southward for
near half a mile. It affords ample accommodation for loading
and unloading vessels, and transferring the freight to and from
the railroad cars.
The number of steamers, propellers, and sailing vessels
annually arriving and departing from the harbor of Chicago
is very great ; the carrying trade being destined to increase in
proportionate ratio with the population and wealth pouring
into this favored section of the Union.
On reaching the green waters of Lake Michigan, the city of
Chicago is seen stretching along the shore for four or five miles,
presenting a fine appearance from the deck of the steamer.
The entrance to the harbor at the bar is about 200 feet wide.
The bar has from ten to twelve feet water, the lake being sub-
ject to about two feet rise and fall. The steamers bound for
Milwaukee and the northern ports usually run along the west
shore of the lake within sight of land, the banks rising from
thirty to fifty feet above the water.*
* The thermometer stood at 70° Fahrenheit, Sept. 26, 1854, the day
being thick and foggy with little or no wind.
104 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE.
Lake Michigan is about seventy miles average widtli, and
S40 miles in extent from Michigan City, Ind., on the south, to the
Strait of Mackinac on the north ; it presents a great expanse
of water, now traversed by steamers and other vessels of a large
class running to the Saut Ste Marie and Lake Superior ; to
Collingwood, Can. ; to Detroit, Mich. ; to Cleveland Ohio ; and
to Buffalo, N. Y. From Chicago to Buffalo the distance is
about 1,000 miles by water; while from Chicago to Superior
City, at the head of Lake Superior, or Fond du Lac, the dis-
tance is a]30ut the same, thus affording two excursions of 1,000
miles each over four of the great lakes or inland seas of America,
in steamers of from 1,000 to 2,000 tons burden. During the
summer and early autumn months the waters of this lake are
comparatively calm, affording safe navigation. But late in the
year, and during the winter and early spring months, the
navigation of this and the other great lakes is very dan-
gerous.
Waukegast, Lake Co., 111., 36 miles north of Chicago, is hand-
somely situated on elevated ground, gradually rising to 50 or 60
feet above the water. Here are two piers, alight-houso, several
large storehouses, and a neat and thriving town containing about
6,000 inhabitants, six churches, a bank, several well-kept hotels,
thirty stores, and two steam-flouring mills.
Kenosha, Wis., 52 miles from Chicapco, is elevated 30 or 40
feet above the lake. Here is a small harbor, a light-house,
storehouses, mills, etc. The town has a population of about
5,000 inhabitants, surrounded by a fine back country. Here is
a good hotel, a bank, several churches, and a number of stores
and manufacturing establishments doing a large amount of
business. The Kenosha and Beloit Railroad, when finished,
will connect at the latter place with a railroad running to Madi-
son, and thence to the Mississippi River.
The City of Racine, Wis., 02 miles from Chicago and 25
miles south of Milwaukee, is built on an elevation some forty
or fifty feet above the surface of the lake. It is a handsome
and flourishing place. Here is a light-house, piers, storehouses.
CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. 105
etc. , situated near the water, while the city contains some fine
public buildings and private residences. The population is
about 9,000, and is rapidly increasing. Racine is the second
city in the State in commerce and population, and possesses a
fine harbor. Here are located the county buildings, fourteen
churches, several hotels, and numerous stores of different kinds.
The Racine and Mississippi Railroad, extending from this
place to Beloit, 68 miles, will be continued to the Mississippi
River at Savanna. The Chicago and Milwaukee Railroad also
runs through the town.
The City of Milwaukee, Wis., 86 miles from Chicago, by
railroad and steamboat route, is handsomely situated on rising
ground on both sides of the Milwaukee River, at its entrance into
Lake Michigan. In front of the city is a bay or indentation
of the lake, afibrding a good harbor, except in strong easterly
gales. The harbor is now being improved, and will doubtless
be rendered secure at all times of the season. The river affords
an extensive water-power, capable of giving motion to ma-
chinery of almost any required amount. The city is built upon
beautiful slopes, descending toward the river and lake. It has
a court-house, city hall, a United States land-office, the Uni-
versity Institute, a college for females, three academies, three
orphan asylums, thirty churches, several well-kept hotels, ex-
tensive ranges of stores, and several large manufacturing estab-
lishments. The city is lighted with gas, and well supplied with
good water. Its exports of lumber, agricultural produce, etc.,
are immense, giving profitable employment t© a large number
of steamers and other lake craft, running to different ports caa
the upper lakes, Detroit, Buffalo, etc. The growth of this city
has been astonishing ; twenty years since its site was a wilder-
ness; now it contains over 30,000 inhabitants, and of a class in-
ferior to no section of the Union for intelligence, sobriety, and
industry.
The future of Milwaoikee it is hard to predict ; here are cen-
tering numerous railroads finished and in course of construc-
tion, extending sou ^h. to Chicago, west to the Mississippi River,
100 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE.
and nortli to Lake Superior, \yliich in connection witli the De-
troit and Milwaukee Railroad, terminating at Grand Haveu,
80 miles distant by water, and tlie lines of steamers running to
this port, will altogether give an impetus to this favored city,
blessed with a good climate and soil, which the future alone
can reveal.
During the past year an unusual number of fine buildings
have been erected, and the commerce of the port has amounted
to $00,000,000. The bay of :\Iilwaukee offers the best advant-
ages for the construction of a harbor of refuge of any point on
Lake Michigan. The city has expended over $100,000 in the
construction of a harbor ; this needs extension and completion,
which will no doubt be effected.
Port Washington, Ozaukee Co., "Wis., 25 miles north of
Milwaukee, is a flourishing place, and capital of the county.
The village contains besides the public buildings, several
churches and hotels, twelve stores, three mills, an iron foundry,
two breweries and oldier manufactories. The population is about
2,500. Here is a good steamboat landing, from which large
quantities of produce are annually shipped to Chicago and other
lake ports. ^
The unfortunate steamer Niagara, while on her passage from
Collingwood to Chicago, was destroyed by fire off Port Wash-
ington in September, 185G, whereby sixty lives were lost
Sheboygan, Wis., 50 miles north of Milwaukee and 180
miles from Chicago, is a thriving place, containing about 5,000
inhabitants. Here are seven churches, several public houses and
stores, together with a light-house and piers ; the harbor being
improved by government works. Large quantities of lumber
and agricultural products are shipped from this port. The
country in the interior is fast settling with agriculturists, the
soil and climate being good.* A railroad is about being con-
etructed from this place to Foxd du Lac, 42 miles west, lying
* September !>T, 1S54, the thermometer stood at 60^ Fahr., with a light
wind, from the north.
CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND S^UT STE MARIE. 107
at the head of Lake Winnebago ; also, another railroad to
extend to Milwaukee on the south and G reen Bay on the north-
west.
Maivitouwoc, "Wis., 70 miles north of Milwaukee and 33
miles east from Green Bay, is an important shipping port. It
contains ahout 2,500 inhabitants ; five churches, several public
houses, twelve stores, besides several storehotvses ; three steam
saw-mills, two ship-yards, light-house, and pier. Large quan-
tities of lumber are annually shipped from this port. The har-
bor is being improved so as to afford a refuge for vessels during
stormy weather.
The west bank of Lake Michigan is here elevated about 60 or
80 feet, presenting a rough appearance in many places, with
sundry bluffs rising from the water's edge to the level of the
country, above which it is clothed with heavy timber of different
kinds.
" Manitouwoc is the most northern of the harbors of Lake
Michigan improved by the United States government. It de-
rives additional importance from the fact tliat, when completed,
it will afford the first point of refuge from storms for shipping
bound from any of the other great lakes to this or to the most
soiithern ports of Lake Michigan."
Two Rivers, Wis., eight miles north from Manitouwoc, is a
new and thriving place at the entrance of the conjoined streams
(from which the place takes its name) into Lake Michigan.
Two piers are here erected, one on each side of the river ; also
a ship-yard and three steam saw-mills. The village contains
about 2,000 inhabitants. This section of country, extending
back to Green Bay, abounds in good timber, which is prepared
and shipped to Chicago and other ports. Fish are taken in
large quantities, and sent to different markets.
Kewaunee, Wis., 25 miles north of Two Pdvers and 102
miles from Milwaukee, is a small shipping town, where are
situated several saw-mills and lumber establishments. Green
Bay is situated about 25 miles due west from this place.
From Manitouwoc and Two Rivers, in a northerly direction,
the country is still, for the most part, a wild wilderness, in-
108 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT 6TE MARIE.
habited sparsely by Indians of different tribes. The following
is an extract from the Manitouwoc Tribune of March, 1857 :
EOMAifCE OF THE FOEEST.
" Some months since we gave the particulars of a horrible
occurrence which happened in our immediate neighborhood,
rivaling in interest the thrilling story of the eagle's victim, on
the mountain of Switzerland No traces of the child which the
bear carried off in such a daring manner have as yet been
found ; but the excitement which such an incident awakens is
gradually dying away, and is now replaced by that of one of
more recent date, scarcely less thrilling in its <ietail.
" Last week a Mr Woodward, living near Sandy Bay, had
some difficulty with an Indian, The next day his little girl,
three years of age, was standing near the house, when an In-
dian sprang out of the thickets, and clasped her in his arms,
and bounded away through the underbrush. Pursuit was com-
menced immediately, but up to Saturday without success, though
information had been received which, it was hoped, would lead
to the recovery of the child — an Indian and a squaw having
been seen the day after the abduction carrying a child which
was closely wrapped in a blanket, and was crying bitterly."
On leaving Two Rivers, the steamers usually run for the
Manitou Islands, Mich., a distance of about 100 mi'es. Soon
after the last vestige of land sinks below the horizon on the
west shore, the vision catches the dim outline of coast on the
east or Michigan shore at Point aux Betsie, which is about GO
miles south of the Great Manitou Island. From this point,
passing northward by Slecjnng Bear Point, a singular shaped
headland looms up to the view. It is said to resemble a sleep-
ing bear. The east shore of Lake Michigan presents a suc-
cession of high sand-banks for many miles, while inland are
nmnerous small bays and lakes.
Little, or South Manitou Island, 250 miles from Chicago
and 100 miles from Mackinac, lies on the Michigan side of the
lake, and is the first island encountered on proceeding north-
ward from Chicago. It rises abruptly on the west shore 2 or
300 feet from the -water's edge, sloping toward the east shore,
on which is a light-house and a fine harbor. Here steamers
BtoD for wood. The Great or North Manitou is nearly twice
CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND BAUT STE MARIE. l09
as large as the former island, and contains about 14,000 acres
of land. Both islands are settled by a few families, "whose
principal occupation is fishing and cutting wood for the use of
steamers and sailing vessels.
Fox Islands, 60 miles north from South Manitou, consist of
three small islands lying near the middle of Lake Michigan,
which is here about 60 miles wide. On the west is the entrance
to Green Bay, and on the east is the entrance to Grand Trav-
erse Bay, and immediately to the north is the entrance to Lit-
tle Traverse Bay.
Great and Little Beaver islands, lying about midway
between the Manitou Islands and Mackinac, are large and fer-
tile bodies of land, and are at present occupied by Mormons,
who have here their most eastern settlement.
Garden and Hog islands are next passed before reaching
the Strait of jNIackinac, which, opposite Old Fort Mackinac, is
about six miles in width. The site of Old Fort Mackinac is on
the south main or Michigan shore, directly opposite Point Ste
Ignace, on the north main shore. St. Helena Island lies at the
entrance of the strait from the south, distant about fifteen
miles from Mackinac.
Old Fort Mackinac is an important and interesting loca-
tion ; it was formerly fortified and garrisoned for the protection
of the strait and this section of country when inhabited almost
exclusively by various tribes of Indians. This place can be
easily reached by sail-boat from the island of Mackinac.
Pte la Gros Cap, lying to the west of Old Fort Mackinac, is
a picturesque headland well worthy of a visit.
The Strait or Mackinac is from five to twenty miles in
width, and extends east and west about thirty miles, embosoming
several important islands besides ^Mackinac Island, the largest
being Bois Blanc Island, lying near the head of Lake Huron.
Between this island and the main north shore the steamer
Garden City was wrecked. May 16, 1854 ; her upper works
were still visible from the deck of the passing steamer in the
fall of the same year
10
110 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE
Grosse Ile St. Martin and He St. Martin lie mthin the
waters of the strait, eight or ten miles north of the island of
Mackinac. In the neig;hborhood of these different islands are
the favorite fishing-grounds both of the Indian and the " pale
face."
The town and fortress of Mackinac is most beautifully situ-
ated on the east shore of the island, and extends for a distance
of about one mile along the water's edge, and has a fine harbor
protected by a water battery. This important island and
fortress is situated in N. lat. 45° 54', W. Ion. 84° 30' from
Greenwich, being seven degrees thirty minutes west from
Washington. It is 350 miles north from Chicago, 100 miles south
of Saut Ste Marie by the steamboat route, and about 300 miles
northwest from Detroit. Fort Mackinac stands on elevated
ground, about 200 feet above the water, overlooking the pictur-
esque town and harbor below. In the rear, about half a mile
distant, stands the ruins of old Fort Holmes, situated on the
highest point of land, at an elevation of about 350 feet above the
water, affording an extensive view.
The town contains two churches, two hotels, ten or twelve
stores, 100 dwelling-houses, and about 600 inhabitants. The
climate is remarkably healthy and delightful during the summer
months, when this favored retreat is usually thronged with
visitors from different parts of the Union, while the Indian
warriors, their squaws and their children, are seen lingering
around this their favorite island and fishing-ground.*
The island of Mackinac, lying in the Strait of Mackinac, is
about three miles long and two miles wide. It contains many
deeply interesting points of attraction in addition to the village
and fortress ; the principal natural curiosities are known as the
Arch Rock, Sugar Loaf, Lover's Leap, Devil's Kitchen, Robin-
son's Folly, and other objects of interest weU worthy the atten-
tion of the tourist. The Mission House and Grove House are
the principal hotels.
* Sept. 28, 1854, the thermometer stood at 50° Fahr. Very pleasant
■weather with light wind, not having seen a wave break for two days.
CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. Ill
ISLA^T) OF MACKINAC.
The view given represents the Island, approacliing from the
eastward. " A cliff of limestone, white and weather-beaten,
with a narrow alluvial plain skirting its base, is the first thing
which commands attention;" but, on nearing the harbor, the
village (2), with its many picturesque dwellings, and the fort-
ress (3), perched near the summit of the Island, are gazed at
with wonder and delight. The promontory on the left is called
the " Lover's Leap" (1), skirted by a pebbly beach, extending
to the village. On the right is seen a bold rocky precipice,
called " Robinson's Folly" (5), while in the same direction is
a singular peak of nature called the " Sugar Loaf." Still far-
ther onward, the " Arched Rock" and other interesting sights,
meet the eye of the explorer, affording pleasure and delight,
particularly to the scientific traveler and lover of nature. On
the highest ground, elevated about 350 feet above the waters
of the Strait, is the signal station (4), situated near the ruins
of old Fort Holmes.
The settlement of this Isl^d was commenced in 1764. In
1793 it was surrendered to the American government ; taken
by the British in 1812 ; but restored by the treaty of Ghent,
signed in November, 1814.
^t).
.^ iillWiw
-"^*»;
s^yj^, \ \i
M
-LQSSINC-^BAdRlTT.-
Abched Roce:. — Mackinac.
CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. 113
The whole island of Mackinac is deeply interesting to the
scientific explorer, as •well as to the seeker of health and pleas-
ure. The following extract, illustrated by an engraving, is
copied from " Foster arid Whitney's Geological Reporf of
that region :
" As particular examples of denuding action on the island,
we would mention the ' Arched Rock' and the ' Sugar Loaf.'
The former, situated on the eastern shore, is a feature of great
interest. The cliffs here attain a height of nearly one hundred
feet, Avhile at the base ai'e strewn numerous fragments which
have fallen from above. The Arched Rock has been excavated
in a projecting angle of the limestone cliff, and the top of the
span is about ninety feet above the lake-level, surmounted by
aboiit ten feet of rock. At the base of a projecting angle,
which rises up like a buttress, there is a small opening, through
which an explorer may pass to the main arch, where, after
clambering over the steep slope of debris and the projecting
edges of the strata, he reaches the brow of the cliff.
" The beds forming the summit of the arch are cut off from
direct connection with the main rock by a narrow gorge of no
great depth. The portion supporting the arch on the north
side, and the curve of the arch itself, are comparatively fragile,
and can not, for a long period, resist the action of rains and
frosts, which, in this latitude, and on a rock thus constituted,
produce great ravages every season. The arch, which on one
side now connects this abutment with the main cliff, will soon
be destroyed, as well as the abutment itself, and the whole be
precijiitated into the lake.
" It is evident that the denuding action, producing such an
opening, wirh other attendant phenomena, could only have
operated while near the level of a large body of water, like the
great lake itself ; and we find a striking similarity between the
denuding action of the water here in time past, and the same
action as now manifested in the range of the Pictured Rocks
on the shores of Lake Superior. As an interesting point in the
scenery of this island, the Arched Rock attracts much atten-
tion, and in every respect is worthy of examination." (See
Engraving.)
Other picturesque objects of great interest, besides those
enumerated above, occur at every turn on roving about this
enchanting island, where the pure, bracing air and clear waters
afford a pleasurable sensation, difficult to be described, unless
visited and enjoyed.
114 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE.
EouND Island is a small body of land lying a short distance
southeast of Mackinac, while Bois Blanc Island is a large
body of land lying still farther in the distance, at the head of
Lake Huron, here about 30 miles wide, which width it aver-
ages for about 50 miles, when it widens to 100 miles and up-
ward.
Point de Tour, 40 miles east from Mackinac, is the site of a
light-house and settlement, at the entrance of St. Mary's River,
which is here about half a mile in width ; this passage is also
called the West Channel. At a distance of about two miles
above the Point is a new settlement, where has been erected a
steamboat pier, a hotel, and several dwellings.
Drummond Island, a large and important body of land
belonging to the United States, is passed on the right, where is
to be seen the ruins of an old fort erected by the British. On
the left is the mainland of Northern Michigan. Ascending St.
Mary's River next is passed Roxjnd or Pipe Island, and other
smaller islands on the right, most of them belonging to the
United States.
On Drummond Island is said to exist a fine and valuable
quality of stone, as will be seen by the following extract :
" A correspondent of the New Haven Journal denies the ac-
curacy of the assertion that the deposit of lithographic stone
lately found in Kentucky is the first discovery of that species
of stone in the United States. The writer says that he obtained
a specimen of the same kind of stone in 1825 at Drummond
Island, at the entrance of th^ strait between Lakes Huron and
Superior, where the supply was apparently inexhaustible. The
stone was carried to Boston and tested by a lithographer, who
said it was equal, if not superior, to the German stone. At
that time, however, Drummond Island was far less accessible
than Germany, and the discovery was, therefore, of no prac-
tical value."
St. Joseph Island, 10 miles above Point de Tour, is a
large and fertile island belonging to Canada, which is more
fully described on page 43. It is about 20 miles long from east
to west, and about 15 miles broad, covered in part with a heavy
growth of forest trees. Here is seen the ruins of an old fort
CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. 115
erected by the British on a point of land commandijig the chan-
nel of the riyer.
Carltonville is a small settlement on the Michigan side of
the river, 12 miles above the De Totit. Here is a steam saw-
mill and a few dwelling-houses.
Lime Island is a small body of land belonging to the United
States, lying in the main channel of the river, about 12 miles
from its mouth. The channel here forms the boundary between
the United States and Canada.
Mud Lake,, as it is called, owing to its waters being easily
riled, is an expansion of the river about five miles wide and
ten miles long, but not accurately delineated on any of the
modern maps, which appear to be very deficient in regard to
St. Mary's River and its many islands — presenting at several
points most beautiful river scenery In the St. Mary's River
there are about 50 islands belonging to the United States, be-
sides several attached to Canada.
Nebish Island and Sailor's Encampment, situated about
half way from the Point to the Saut, are passed on the left
while sailing through the main channel.
Sugar Island, a large body of fertile land belonging to the
United States, is reached about 30 miles above Point de Tour,
situated near the head of St. Joseph Island. On the right is
passed the British or JS'^orth Channel, connecting on the east
with Georgian Bay. Here are seen two small rocky islands
belonging to the British Government, which command both
channels of the river.
The JVebish Rapids are next passed by the ascending vessel,
the stream here running about five knots per hour. The main
land of Canada is reached immediately above the rapids, being
clothed with a dense growth of forest trees of small size. To
the north is a dreary wilderness, extending through to Hudson
Bay, as yet almost wholly unexplored and unknown, except to
the Indian or Canadian hunter.
Lake George, twenty miles below the Saut is another ex-
pansion of the river, being about five miles wide and eight miles
116 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE.
long. Here the channel is only from eight to ten feet in depth
for about one mile, forming a great impediment to navigation.
Church's Landing, on Sugar Island, twelve miles below the
Saut, is a steamboat landing ; opposite it is Squirrel Island,
belonging to the Canadians. This is a convenient landing, where
is situated a store and dwelling. The industrious occupants are
noted for the making of raspberry jam, which is sold in large
quantities, and shipped to Eastern and Southern markets.
Garden River Settlement is an Indian village ten miles be-
low the Saut, on the Canadian shore. Here is a missionary
church and several dwellings, surrounded by grounds poorly
cultivated, fishing and hunting being the main employment of
the Chippewa Indians who inhabit this section of country.
Both sides of the river abound in wild berries of good flavor,
which are gathered in large quantities by the Indians, during
the summer months.*
Extract from a letter dated Saut Ste Marie, Sept., 1854 :
" The scenery of the St. Mary's River seems to grow more
attractive every year. There is a delicious freshness in the
countless evergreen islands that dot the river in every direction
from the Falls to Lake Huron, and I can imagine of no more
tempting retreats from the dusty streets of towns, in summer,
than these islands; I believe the time will soon come when
neat summer cottages will be scattered along the steamboat
route on these charming islands. A summer could be delight-
fully spent in exploring for new scenery and in fishing and sail-
ing in these waters.
" And Mackinac, what an attractive little piece of terra firma
is that island — half ancient, half modern ! The view from the
fort is one of the finest in the world. Perched on the brink of
a precipice some two hundred feet above the bay — one takes in
at a glance from its walls the harbor, with its numerous boats
and the pretty village ; and the whole rests on one's vision more
like a picture than a reality. Every thing on the island is a
curiosity ; the roads or streets that wind f.round the harbor or
among the grove -like forests of the island are naturally pebbled
and macadamized ; the buildings are of every style, from an
Indian lodge to a fine English house. The island is covered with
charming natural scenery, from the pretty to the grand, and
* Sept. 30, 1S54, the thermometer stood at 42^ Fahr., at the Saut Ste
Marie, in the n:?:>rmng, a fine day for the season, with little or no wind.
CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. 117
one may spend weeks constantly finding new objects of interest
and new scenes of beauty. It is unnecessary to particularize —
every visitor will find them, and enjoy the sight more than any
description.
" The steamers all call there, on their way to and from Chicago,
and hundreds of small sail vessels, in the fishing trade, have
here their head-quarters. Drawn upon the pebbled beach or
gliding about the little bay are bark canoes and the far-famed
" Mackinac boats," without number. These last are the perfeo*
tion of light sail-boats, and I have often been astonished at see-
ing them far out in the lake beating up against winds that were
next to gales. Yesterday the harbor was thronged with sail-
boats and vessels of every description, among the rest were the
only two iron steamers that the United States have upon all the
lakes, the " Michigan" and the " Surveyor," formerly called
the " Abert," employed in the coast survey.
" For a wonder, Lake Huron was calm and at rest for its en-
tire length, and the steamer Northerner made a beautiful and
quick passage from Mackinac to this place. The weather con-
tinues warm and dry, and hundreds are regretting they have
so early left the Saut and Mackinac, and we believe you will
see crowds of visitors yet. Jay."
118 LAKE HURON.
A SUNDAY ON LAKE HUEON.
During the autumn of 1856 the steamer Illinois arrived
at Saut Ste Marie on Saturday evening, on her return from a
trip through Lake Superior, having proceeded to La Pointe,
situated on one of the " Twelve Apostles," and thence crossed
over to the extreme western shore of the lake, near the mouth
of Pigeon Eiver, returning along the north or Canada shore to
the Saut, with a pleasure party on board.
While the steamer was detained at the wharf, below the
mouth of the ship canal, most of the passengers, and many of
the citizens of this ancient and romantic village, together with
a few Canadians from the opposite shore, amused themselves by
music and dancing ; while not a few drank deep from the in-
toxicating bowl. This scene of pleasure was kept up until near
midnight, when, one by one, the passengers retired to their rest,
and the villagers bade adieu to their new-made and old ac-
quaintances.
The next morning the steamer was coursing her way through
the pure and lovely waters of the St. Mary's Piiver, with every
appearance of a fine day. After passing Sugar Island, the
Nebish Piapids, and the island of St. Joseph, and entering the
broad waters of Lake Huron, a most beautiful view was pre-
sented to our gaze. In the rear was seen the entrance to the
De Tour passage, just passed, and the British island of St.
Joseph — on the north lay Drummond Island, attached to the
stars and stripes, although bearing a foreign name — while in
the far distance southward were seen the romantic island of
Mackinac and the main shore of IMichigan.
At this time, the hour of breakfast having passed, the Kev.
Mr. , an Episcopal minister from Ontonagon, Mich., was
invited to read the church service and preach a sermon, for the
benefit of the passengers on board, among whom were persons
of different creeds and nations. Never was a discourse more
appropriately selected, or received with more devout attention,
LAKE HURON. 119
considering tlie mixed, and mostly strange, persons assembled
in the after-cabin.
The lake, when seen, presented a serene and quiet calmness,
alone disturbed by the powerful machinery propelling us
through the waters at a most rapid rate ; while the sentiments
and rich melody of the speaker's voice lent a charm to the scene
never to be forgot by many then present. Thus should it al-
ways be on a Sabbath, while journeying over these magnificent
waters, if the weather will permit — blending serious thoughts
with the most grand and lovely objects of nature — that pro-
duced by the view of land and water, as seen at times on the
great lakes of North America.
A bounteous dinner was next served up, affording delight to
those blessed with good appetites ; while every passenger, male
and female, seemed to enjoy the scenery that during the entire
day was visible from the deck of the steamer.
Thunder Bay, Saginaw Bay, and Point au Barque were passed
in succession — the mainland on the Canada or Michigan shore
being, for most of the time, seen in the far distance ; while
occasionally the smoke of a passing steamer or a sail vessel
caught the eye, silently gliding over the broad waters of Lake
Huron.
Were it not for the almost criminal carelessness or reckless-
ness of many of the owners and masters of steamers navigating
these lakes, whereby hundreds of valuable lives have been lost
and millions of property destroyed, no more safe, instructive,
or grand excursion could be found on the face of the globe.
120
STEAMBOAT ROUTE.
STEAMBOAT EOUTE FEOM CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND
SATJT STE MAEIE.
PASSING THROUGH LAKES MICHIGAN AND HURON.
Ports, etc.
Miles.
Ports, etc.
Miles.
Chicago, 111
0
Saut Ste Marie
0
Waukegan
36
Garden River Set
10
Kenosha, Wis
52
ChurcKs Landing, )
Sugar Island, 5
14
Racine
62
Milwaukee
86
Nebish Rapids
25
Port JVashington
111
St. Joseph Is., C. W. ...
26
Sheboygan
136
Point De Tour
50
Manitouwoc
156
Mackinac, Is. and town
95
Two Rivers
173
Old Fort Mackinac
105
Kewaunee, (25 miles) . . .
Hog and Garden Islands
120
South Manitou Is. IVIich.
250
Great Beaver Is
130
North Manitou Is
260
300
315
Fox Islands
145
Fox Islands
North Manitou Is
South Manitou Is
185
Great Beaver Is
195
Hog and Garden Islands
325
Kewaunee, Wis
Old Fort Mackinac
340
Two Rivers
272
Mackinac* Is. and town
350
Manitouwoc
289
Point Be Tour
395
Sheboygan
309
St. Joseph Is., C. W. . . .
400
Port Washington
334
Nehish Rapids, ^
Sugar Island, JNIich. 5
420
Milwaukee
359
Racine
383
OhwrcKs Landing
431
Kenosha
393
Garden River Set., C. W.
435
Waukegan, HI
409
Saut Ste Makie, Mich.
445
Chicago
445
Usual Fare, $8, including
meals.
Usual Time, 48 hours.
* The steamers running from Detroit and Collingwood to Green Bay
and Chicago aU stop at this port.
STEAMBOAT ROUTE.
121
STEAMBOAT KOUTE FKOM SAUT STE MAEIE TO DETEOIT..
PASSING THUOITGH LAKES HURON AND ST. CLA.R.
Ports, etc.
Satjt Ste Marie
Garden River Set., C.W,
Churches Landins
Lake George
Nebish Rapids
St. Joseph Is., C.W.-..
Mud Lake
Lime Island, Mich. . . .
Drummond Island. . . .
Point Be Tour, ^
Lake Huron, 5 ' '
Mackinac, (40 miles) .
Presque Isle
Thunder Bay Is
Saginaw Bay
Point au Barque ,
St. Clair River, ^
Fort Gratoit, 5
Port Huron, Mich.
Port Sarn-ia, C. W.
St. Clair, Mich
Newport
Algonac ,
St. Clair Lake
Detroit River
Detroit
Miles.
0
10
14
20
24
25
30
43
48
50
105
135
190
210
275
277
294
304
310
313
343
350
]■■
Ports, etc.
Detroit
Lake St. Clair
St. Clair Flats ....
Algonac
Newport
St. Clair
Port Sarnia, C. W.
Port Huron, ISIich.
Fort Gratiot, 'i
Lake Huron, 5
Point au Barque
Saginaw Bay
Thunder Bay Is
Presque Isle,
Mackinac, (70 miles)
Point De Tour, 'i
St. Mary's River, ) ' ' ' '
Drummond Island
St. Joseph Island, C. W.
Lime Island
Mud Lake
Sugar Island
Lake George
ChiercJi's Landing
Garden River Set., C.W.
Saitt Ste Marie
Miles-
0
7
30
40
46
75
140
150
215
245
30O
302-
310'
312
820
32&
330
336
340
350
Fare, $7, including meals.
11
Usual Time, 30 hours.
TRIP FROM DETROIT TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE
MARIE, PASSING THROUGH LAKE HURON.
During the season of navigation, steamers of a large class,
mth good accommodations for passengers, leave Detroit almost
daily for Mackinac, for Green Bay, for Chicago, situated on
Lake Michigan, or for the Saut Ste Marie ; from thence passing
through the ship canal into Lake Superior, forming delightful
excursions during the summer and the early autumn months.
On leaving Detroit the steamers run in a northerly direction,
passing Belle, or Hog Island, two miles distant, which is about
three miles long and one mile broad, presenting a handsome ap-
pearance. The Canadian shore on the right is studded with
dwellings and well-cultivated farms.
Peche Island is a small body of land attached to Canada,
lying at the mouth of Detroit River, opposite which, on the
Michigan shore, is Wind Mill Point and light-house.
Lake St. Clair commences seven miles above Detroit ; it
may be said to be 20 miles long and 25 miles wide, measuring
its length from the outlet of St. Clair River to the head of De-
troit River. Compared with the other lakes it is very shallow,
having a depth of only from 8 to 24 feet, as indicated by Bay-
field's chart. It receives the waters of the Upper Lakes from
the St. Clair Strait by several channels forming islands, and
discharges them into the Detroit River or Strait. In the upper
portion of the lake are several extensive islands, the largest of
which is Walpole Island; it belongs to Canada, and is inhab-
ited mostly by Indians. All the islands to the west of Walpole
Island belong to Michigan. The Walpole, or " Old Ship Chan-
nel," forms the boundary between the United States and Can-
ada. The main channel, now used by the larger class of ves-
sels, is called the " North Channel." Here are passed the " St.
Clair Flats," a great impediment to navigation, for the rwnoval
DETROIT TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. 12S
of whicli Congress will no doubt make ample appropriation
sooner or later. The northeastern channel, separating Walpole
Island from the main Canada shore, is called " Chenail Ecarte"
Besides the waters passing through the Strait of St. Clair, Lake
St. Clair receives the river Thames from the Canada side, which
is navigable to Chatham, some 24 miles ; also the waters of Clin-
ton River from the west or American side, the latter being
navigable to Mt. Clemens, Michigan. Several other streams
flow into the lake from Canada, the principal of which is the
River Sydenham. Much of the land bordering on the lake is
low and marshy, as well as the islands ; and in places there are
large plains which are used for grazing cattle.
Ashley, or New Baltimore, situated on the N.W. side of
Lake St. Clair, 30 miles from Detroit, is a new and flourishing
place, and has a fine section of country in the rear. It contains
three steam saw-mills, several other manufactories, and about
' 1,000 inhabitants. A steamboat runs from this place to Detroit.
Mt. Clemens, Macomb Co., Mich., is situated on Clinton
River, six miles above its entrance into Lake St. Clair, and
about 30 miles from Detroit by lake and river. A steamer plies
daily to and from Detroit during the season of navigation. Mt.
Clemens contains the county buildings, several churches, three
hotels, and a number of stores and manufacturing establish-
ments, and about 2,500 inhabitants. Detroit is distant by
plank-road only 20 miles.
Chatham, C. W., 46 miles from Detroit by railroad route,
and about 24 miles above the mouth of the river Thames, which
enters into Lake St. Clair, is a port of entry and thriving place
of business, where have been built a large number of steamers
and sail- vessels.
Algonac, Mich., situated near the foot of St. Clair River,
40 miles from Detroit, contains a church, two or three saw-
mills, and about 600 inhabitants
Newport, Mich., seven miles farther north, is noted for
steamboat building, there being extensive ship-yards, where arc
annually employed a large number of workmen. Here are fotu^
124 DETROIT TO MACKINAC A^D SAUT STE MARIE.
steam saw-mills, machine shops, etc. Population about 800.
Belle River here enters the St. Clair from the west.
St. Clair Strait connects Lake Huron with Lake St. Clair,
and discharges the surplus waters of Lakes Superior, Michigan,
and Huron. It flows in a southerly direction, and enters Lake
St. Clair by six channels, the north one of which, on the Mich-
igan side, is the only one at present navigated by large vessels
in ascending and descending the river. It receives several
tributaries from the west, or ^Michigan ; the principal of which
are Black River, Pine River, and Belle River, and several rivers
flow into it from the east, or Canadian side. It has several
flourishing villages on its banks. It is 48 miles long, from a
"half to a mile wide, and has an average depth of from 40 to 60
feet, with a current of three miles an hour, and an entire de-
scent of about 15 feet. Its waters are clear and transparent,
the navigation easy, and the scenery varied and beautiful —
forming, for its entire length, the boundary between the United
States and Canada. The banks of the upper portion are high ;
those of the lower portion are low, and in parts inclined to be
marshy. Both banks of the river are generally well settled,
and many of the farms are beautifully situated. There are
several wharves constructed on the Canada side, for the con-
venience of supplying the numerous steamboats passing and re-
passing with wood. There is also a settlement of the Chippewa
Indians in the township of Sarnia, Canada ; the Indians reside
in small log or bark houses of their own erection.
St. Clair, Mich., is pleasantly situated on the west side of
St. Clair Strait, 56 miles from Detroit and 14 miles from Lake
Huron. This is a thriving place, with many fine buildings,
and is a great lumber depot. It contains the county buildings
for St. Clair Co., several churches and hotels, one flouring
mill, and five steam saw-mills, besides other manufacturing
establishments, and about 3,000 inhabitants. St. Clair has an
active business in the construction of steamers and other lake
craft. The site of old Fort St. Clair y now in ruins, is on the
border of the village
DETROIT TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. 125
SouTHERLAND, C. W., is a Small village on the Canada shore,
opposite St. Clair. It was laid out in 1833 by a Scotch gentle*
man of the same name, who here erected an Episcopal church,
and made other valuable improvements.
Moore, C. W., is a small village ten miles below Port Sarnia
FROMEriELD, or Talfourd's, C. W., is another small village,
handsomely situated four and a half miles below Port Sarnia
Here is an Episcopal church, a wind-mill, and a cluster of
iwellings.
Port Sarnia, C. W., 68 miles from Detroit, is an important
place and port of entry, handsomely situated on the east bank
of the river St. Clair, opposite Port Huron on the American
shore, and near the foot of Lake Huron. It now contains about
2,500 inhabitants, and is the proposed terminus of the Grand
Trunk Railway of Canada, which will afford a speedy com-
munication with Hamilton, Toronto, Kingston, Montreal, and
Quebec. Steamers run from Port Sarnia to Goderich, and
different places on the Upper Lakes, and to Detroit, etc.
Port Huron, St. Clair Co., Mich., is very advantageously
situated on the west bank of the civer St. Clair, at the mouth
of Black River, two miles below Lake Huron and 68 miles from
Detroit by water. It contains several churches, two or three
public houses, fifteen stores, one steam flouring-mill, four steam
saw-mills, and several other manufacturing establishments.
Population about 3,000. It is an important depot for lumber,
fish, etc. A railroad is to be constructed from Port Huron to
Corunna and Grand Rapids, connecting with the Detroit and
Milwaukee Railroad ; another railroad will extend to Detroit,
thus forming a direct route from Lake Huron to Lake Michigan,
and to Toledo, Cincinnati, etc. During the season of navigation
there is daily intercourse by steamboat with Detroit.
Fort Gratoit, two miles above Port Huron, is situated at
the foot of Lake Huron, at the commencement of the St. Clair
Strait. It was built in 1814, at the close of the war with Great
Britain, and consists of a stockade, including a magazine, bar-
racks, and other accommodations for a garrison of one bat-
11*
126 DETROIT TO MACKINAC AND-SAUT STE MARIE.
talion. It fully commands the entrance to Lake Huron, from the
American shore, and is an interesting landmark to the mariner.
PoiXT Edward, on the opposite Canadian shore, is a military-
reserve, where is usually stationed a small British force. It
also commands the entrance to Lake Huron. In the vicinity is
an excellent fishery, where upward of 1,000 barrels of fish are
annually taken and exported.
During the season of navigatiwi, steamers run daily from
Detroit to Port Sarnia, Goderich, Saugeen, and other ports in
Canada West.
Bayfield, 108 miles from Detroit, is a new and flourishing
place, situated at the mouth of a river of the same name.
•Goderich, 120 miles north of Detroit, is situated on-elevated
ground at the mouth of Maitland River, where is a good har-
bor. This is a very important and growing place, where will
terminate the Buffalo and Huron Railroad, 160 miles in
length. ( See page 000. )
Kincardine, thirty miles from Goderich, is another port on
the Canadian side of Lake Huron, where the British steamers
land and receive passengers oh their trips to Saugeen.
Saugeen, C. W., is situated at the mouth of a river of the
same name, where is a good harbor for steamers and lake craft.
This is the most northern port to which steamers now run on
the Canada side of Lake Huron, and will no doubt, ere long, be
reached by railroad.
Lake Huron, off the mouth of Saginaw Bay, presents a wide
expanse of waters, attaining its greatest width after passing
Point au Barque ; the steamer usually takes a northerly direc-
tion for many miles, when running toward the Strait of Mack-
inac. On the east lies the Canada shore and Georgian Bay.
FoRREs^TviLLE, Mich. , 120 miles north of Detroit, situated
on the west side of Lake Huron, is a new settlement, where is
erected an extensivfe steam saw-mill. It has some three or four
hundred inhabitants, mostly engaged in the lumber trade. A
steamer runs from Detroit to this landing, which is distant 47
miles from Port Huron.
DETROIT TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE, 127
Saginaw Bay is a very large body of water, it being
about 30 miles wide and 60 miles long, penetrating far into the
lower peninsula of Michigan, There are several islands near
the center of the bay and along its eastern shore ; while dif-
ferent kinds of fish are taken from its waters in large quanti-
ties. Saginaw River, flowing into the head of the bay, is a
large and navigable stream, draining a rich section of country.
Lower Sagiistaw, near the mouth of the river, is a flourish-
ing settlement, from whence a large amount of lumber is an-
nually exported.
Saginaw City, Saginaw Co. , INIich. , is handsomely situated
on the left bank of the river, 23 miles above its mouth. It
contains a court-house and jail, several churches, two hotels,
15 stores, two warehouses, and sis steam saw-mills. Population
about 4,000. There is a fine section of country in the rear of
Saginaw, much of which is heavily timbered ; the soil produces
grain in abundance, while the streams afford means of ea^
transportation to market. Steamers run daily from Saginaw
City to Detroit, during the season of navigation.
East Sagiitaw, situated on the right bank of the river,
about one mile below Saginaw City, is a new and flourishing
place, also largely engaged in the lumber trade, where are
located several extensive steam saw-miUs and other manufac-
turing establishments.
The other important points passed on a trip from Detroit to
Mackinac or the Saut Ste Marie are Thunder Bay Island and
light, and Presque Isle, on the Michigan shore; while the
Great Manitoulin Island, Great Duck Island, and Cockburn
Island are on the Canada side.
If the steamer is bound for IMackinac, a westerly course is
pursued after passing Presque Isle light until Bois Blanc
Island is reached and passed, the steamer then gliding through
the Strait of Mackinac, where the water-surface narrows to
the width of about 20 miles.
BAYS AND RIVERS-SOIL, CLIMATE, ETC., OF
THE LOWER PEffi'SULA OF MICHIGAN.
The Lower Peninsula of Michigan is nearly surrounded by
the waters of the Great Lakes, and, in this respect, its situa-
tion is naturally more favorable for all the purposes of trade
and commerce than any other of the Western States.
The numerous streams ■which penetrate eyery portion of the
peninsula, some of which are navigable for steamboats a con-
siderable distance from the lake, being natural outlets for the
products of the interior, render this whole region desirable for
purposes of settlement and cultivation. Even as far north as
the Strait of Mackinac, the soil and climate, together with the
valuable timber, offer great inducements to settlers ; and if the
proposed railroads, under the recent grant of large portions of
these lands by Congress, are constructed from and to the differ-
ent points indicated, this extensive and heavily timbered region
will speedily be reclaimed, and become one of the most sub-
stantial and prosperous agricultural portions of the West.
It is well that in the system of compensation, which seems to
be a great law of the universe, the vast prairies which comprise
BO large a portion of this great Western domain are provided
so well with corresponding regions of timber, affording the
necessary supply of lumber for the demand of the increasing
population which is so rapidly pouring into these Western
States.
The State of Michigan — all the waters of which flow into the
basin of the St. Lawrence — Northern Wisconsin, and Minnesota
are the sources from which the States of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois,
and Iowa, and a large portion of the prairie country west of
the INIississippi, must derive their supply of this important
article (lumber).
The quantity of pine lumber manufactured in Michigan alone
BAYS, RIVERS, KTC. OF MICHIGAN. 1'29
is estimated for the past year to amount to nearly one thousand
millions of feet. The amount sold in Chicago in 1856 was up-
ward of 450 millions, at an average price of, say $14 per
thousand.
This great commodity is to a considerable degree undervalued.
The supply in the West is now equal to the demand, but the
consumption is so great, and the demand so constantly increas-
ing \dih. the development and settlement of the country, that
of necessity, within comparatively a very few years, these vast
forests will be exhausted. It is estimated that in ten years a
very large proportion of the pine timber, accessible to navigable
streams, will be consumed. But as the timber is exhausted the
soil is prepared for cultivation, and a large portion of the north-
ern part of the southern peninsula of Michigan will be settled
and cultivated, as it is the most reliable wheat-growing portion
of the Union-
Natural points for harbors are found at the mouths of nearly
all the large streams in the State. Besides the ports and towns
already described, there are on Lake Huron, after leaving Sag-
inaw Bay going north, several settlements and lumber estab-
lishments, fisheries, etc. These are at Sauble Eiver, Black
River, and Devil River. At Thunder Bay a very flourishing
town is being built up, with a superior water-power on the
river. This is the county seat of Alpena County. The next
important point on the coast is Cheboygan River. The U. S.
Land Office for this district is located here, at a small town on
the bay called Duncan. This point is nearly opposite the isl-
and of Mackinac.
Passing around the western extremity of the peninsula, at
the Waugoshance Light and Island, the next point is Little
Traverse Bay. This is the terminus of the Amboy and Trav-
erse Bay Railroad.
About fifteen miles southwesterly from Little Traverse we
enter Grand Traverse Bay, a large and beautiful arm of the
lake, extending about thirty miles inland. This bay is divided
into two parts by a point of land from two to four miles wide
130 BAYS, RIVERS, ETC., OF MICHIGAN.
extending from the head of the bay about eighteen miles toward
the lake. The country around this bay is exceedingly pictur-
esque, and embraces one of the finest agricultural portions of
the State
The climate is mild, and fruit and grain of all kinds suitable
to a northern latitude are produced, with less liability to in-
jury from frost than in some of the southern portions of the
State.
Large quantities of these lands have been located, and sev-
eral settlements and towns are rapidly growing up. Grand
Traverse City is located at the head of the west arm of the bay,
and is the terminus of the proposed railroad from Grand Rap-
ids, a distance of about 140 miles.
Passing out of the bay and around the point dividing the
west arm from the lake, we first arrive at the river Aux Bees
Sceis. There is here a natural harbor, capable of accommoda-
ting the larger class of vessels and steamboats. A small settle-
ment has been commenced at this place, but with its natural
advantages, and the capital and enterprise of parties who now
contemplate making further improvements, it will soon become
a very desirable and convenient point for the accommodation
of navigators.
The islands comprising the Beavers, the Manitous, and Fox
isles should here be noticed. The Beavers lie a little south of
west from the entrance to the Strait of Mackinac, the Mani-
tous a little south of these, and the Fox's still farther down
the lake. These are all valuable for fishing purposes, and for
wood and lumber. Lying in the route of all the steamboat
lines from Chicago to Buffalo and the Upper Lakes, the harbors
on these islands are stopping-points for the boats, and a profit-
able trade is conducted in furnishing the necessary supplies of
wood, etc.
The settlement of Mormons on the Big Beavei* Island has
recently been abandoned, and the people have mostly dispersed.
We next arrive at Manistee, a small but important settlement
at the mouth of the Manistee River. The harbor is a natural
BAYS, RIVERS, ETC., OF MICHIGAN. 131
one, but requires some improvement. A large trade is carried
on with Chicago in lumber. The river passes through a fine
pine district, and is one of the largest in the State.
The next point of importance is the mouth of the Pere Mar-
quette River. Here is the terminus of the proposed railroad
from Flint, in Genesee County, connecting with Detroit by the
Detroit and Milwaukee Railway, a distance of about 180 miles.
The harbor is very superior, and the country in the vicinity
is well adapted for settlement. About 16 miles in the interior
is situated one of the most compact and extensive tracts of pine
timber on the western coast.
About forty miles south of this, in the county of Oceana, a
small village is located at the mouth of White River. The
harbor here is also a natural one, and the region is settled to
considerable extent by farmers. Lumber is, however, the prin-
cipal commodity, and the trade is principally with the Chicago
market.
The next point is Muskegon, at the mouth of the Muskegon
River. It is supported principally by the large lumber region
of the interior. Niunerous steam saw-mills are now in active
operation here, giving the place an air of life and activity.
The harbor is one of the best on the lake, and is at present
accessible for all the vessels trading between INIuskegon and
Chicago. A small steamboat runs up the Muskegon River about
forty miles to jXeivaygo, the capital of Newaygo County. This
village is in a beautiful region of farming country, and also in
close proximity to the extensive pineries stretching along the
valley of the river. One of the largest lumber mills in the
State, running 114 saws, is in operation at this place. About
seventy millions of feet of lumber are manufactured annually
on this river.
Grand Haven, Ottawa Co., Mich , is situated on both side?
of Grand River, at its entrance into Lake Michigan, here ei
miles wide ; on the opposite side lies Milwaukee, Wis. T'
ferent settlements comprising Grand Haven contain ab*"
inhabitants. Here is a court-house and jail, two ch
132 BAYS, RIVERS, ETC, OF MICHIGAN.
hotels and taverns, a number of stores; eight large steam saw-
mills, pail and tub factories, a foundry and machine shop, and
other manufacturing establishments.
Steamers run from Grand Haven to Chicago, to INIilwaukee,
and also to other ports on Lake ^Michigan. Steamers also run
from Grand Haven to Grand Eapids, about forty miles up the
river, bringing down immense quantities of lumber and produce.
Above Grand Rapids, where is a fall of twenty-two feet, steam-
ers run to Lyons, about sixty miles distant, where steamboat
navigation ceases.
The Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad, when finished, will
extend from Detroit to Grand Haven, 185 miles, running foi
most of the distance through a rich section of country. It wili
form a through line of travel, by means of steamers across the
lake to J^Iilwaukee, and through Wisconsin to the Mississippi
River and the Far West.
Grand Rapids, situated forty miles above Grand Haven,
although in her teens, can truly assume the title of a city.
With a busy, enterprising population of more than 8,000, and
rapidly increasing, possessing a water-power unequaled by any
in the State, affording to manufacturers and others tempting
inducements ; surrounded by a new, fertile, and rapidly improv-
ing country, it can not fail shortly to become one of the most
prominent cities ia the Northwest.
" Extensive and inexhaustible beds of gypsum, a valuable and
almost indispensable soil-fertilizer in any country, are found
near this place. Building stone of good quality, easily attama-
ble as well as other desirable building materials, are abundant,
and much in requisition, of which fact there is sufi&cient satis-
factory evidence in the noble structures to be seen here, both
of stores and dwellings, many of which eMuce good taste and
correct architectural judgment. I was credibly informed that
there were mercantile houses, in this remote city, doing business
. to the extent of one to two hundred thousand dollars each, year-
Tfe It is confidently expected that the Detroit and Milwaukee
,, Iroad will be completed and in operation from Detroit to this
recently ^^^-^^ ^^^ summer of 1857. This road extends through
We next^edingly rich agricultural section; that portion ,ying be-
at the mout^jie eastern bound of Shiawassa County and Grand
BAYS, RIVERS, ETC., OF MICHIGAN. 133
Rapids may safely be classed as the very best in the whole
State, and I "will venture the assertion that a very few years
only will be required to demonstrate the truth of this, in the
large amount of its surplus products seeking a market eastward,
through the agency of this railroad."
The Grand Kiver Pineriks. — " Up in the northern part of
the Grand Ptiver valley, and along and beyond the Muskegon
River, an immense amount of pine timber is to be found. The
mills upon the Muskegon River are, most of them, of later date
than those of Grand River, and some of them are the finest in
the world. One of the mills upon Grand River is so complete an
automatic machine that it draws up and arranges its own logs,
feeds them to any required thickness of boards, gigs back and
eats itself, carries off and piles up the lumber, registers the
r.umber of boards cut — all by the aid of the most simple and
beautiful machinery.
" At a low estimate," says the Grand Rapids Enquirer, from
which we gather these facts, "the value of this trade foots up
between five and seven millions of dollars. There is every pros-
pect that these figures will be largely increased in ensuing
years, there being thousands of acres of better pine lands than
have yet been cut, yet lying untouched, north of these two
rivers."
The following table shows, to some extent, the amount of
lumber business now done on the Grand and Muskegon rivers
and their tributaries :
Number of saw-mills on Grand and !Muskegon rivers and their
tributaries 115
(These mills run from 1 to 180 saws each.)
Amount of lumber cut per vear — feet '. 173,000,000
« lath '• "" " 48,000,000
staves " " " 3.000,000
shingles " " " 200,000,000
Number of hands constantly employed in mills . . . 1,150
Number of hands employed in pineries in winter . . . 3,460
Number of hands employed in rafting and loading
vessels '. 660
Average load of vessels, feet 80,000
Annual number of arrivals of vessels carrying lum-
ber from Grand and Muskegon rivers 1,920
12
DETROIT.
The City of Detroit, a port of entry, and the great com-
i^ercial mart of the State, is favorably situated in N. lat. 42*^
20', W. long. 82° 58', on a river or strait of the same name,
elevated some 30 or 40 feet ahove its surface, heing seven miles
below the outlet of Lake St. Clair and twenty above the
mouth of the river, where it enters into Lake Erie. It extends
for the distance of upward of a mile upon the southwest bank
of the river, where the stream is three fourths of a mile in
width. The principal public and private offices and wholesale
stores are located on Jefferson and Woodward avenues, which
cross each other at right angles, the latter running to the
water's edge. There may usually be seen a great number of
steamboats, propellers, and sail vessels of a large class, loading
or unloading their rich cargoes, destined for Eastern mar-
kets or for the Great West, giving an animated appearance to
this place, which is aptly called the City of the Straits. It was
incorporated in 1815, being now divided into nine wards, and
governed by a mayor, recorder, and board of aldermen. Detroit
contains the old State-house, from the dome of which a fine
view is obtained of the city and vicinity ; the City Hall, Ma-
sonic Hall, Firemen's Hall, Mechanics Hall, Odd Fellows Hall,
the Young jNIen's Society Building, two Market Buildings,
twenty churches, ten hotels, besides a number of taverns ; a
United States custom-house and post-office, a theater, a mu-
seum, two orphan asylums, four banks, and a savings' fund
institute, besides a great number of manufacturing estab-
lishments. There are also several extensive ship-yards and
machine shops, where are built and repaired vessels of almost
every description. The population in 1850 was 21,891 ; in
1856, 48,000.
DETROIT. 135
Detroit may be regarded as one of the most favored of all
the Western cities of the Union. It was first settled by the
French explorers as early as 1701, as a military and fur trad-
ing port. It changed its garrison and military government in
1760 for a British military commander and troops, enduring
under the latter regime a series of Indian sieges, assaults, and
petty but vigilant and harassing warfare, conducted against
the Englisli garrison by the celebrated Indian warrior Pontiac.
Detroit subsequently passed into the possession of the American
revolutionists; but on the 16th August, 1812, it was sui-ren-
dered by Gen. Hull, of the United States army, to Gen. Broeii;,
commander of the British forces. In 1813 it was again sur-
rendered to the Americans.
The railroads finished and in progress of construction in
Michigan afford facilities of an immense importance to Detroit,
and the State at large. The following lines diverge from
Detroit :
1. The Detroit, Monroe and Toledo Railroad, 62 miles in
length, connecting with the Michigan Southern Railroad at
Monroe, and with other roads at Toledo.
2. The Michigan Central Railroad, 282 miles in length,
extends to Chicago, 111, This important road, running across
the State from east to west, connects at Michigan City, Ind.,
with the New Albany and Salem Railroad — thus forming a di-
rect line of travel to Louisville, St. Louis, etc., as well as Chi-
cago and the Far West.
3. The Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad runs through a
rich section of country to Grand Haven, on Lake Michigan,
opposite Milwaukee, Wis , and will soon be completed.
4. The Detroit and Port Huron Railroad is also under con-
struction, which, when completed, will connect Lake Huron by
rail with the valley of the Ohio River.
5. The Great Western Railway of Canada has its terminus
at Windsor, opposite Detroit, the two places being connected by
three steam ferries — ^thus affording a speedy line of travel
'^rough Canada, and thence to Eastern cities of the United States.
136 DETROIT RIVER.
The Detroit River, or Strait, is a noble stream, through
which flow the surplus waters of the Upper Lakes into LaJ^e
Erie. It is 27 miles in length, and from half a mile to two
miles in width, forming the boundary between the United
States and Canada. It has a perceptible current, and is naviga-
ble for vessels of the largest class. Large quantities of fish are
annually taken in the river, and the sportsman usually finds
an abundance of wild ducks, which breed in great numbers in
the marshes bordering some of the islands and harbors of the
coast.
There are altogether seventeen islands in the river. The
names of these are. Clay, Celeron, Hickory, Sugar, Bois
Blanc, Ella, Fox, Rock, Grosse Isle, Stofiey, Fighting, Tur-
key, Maminy Judy, Grassy, Mud, Belle or Hog, and lie la
Peche. The two latter are situated a few miles above Detroit,
near the entrance to Lake St. Clair, where large quantities of
white-fish are annually taken.
Ile la Peche, attached to Canada, was the home of the
celebrated Indian chief Poniiac. Parkman, in his "History
of the Conspiracy of Pontiac," says : " Pontiac, the Satan of this
forest-paradise, was accustomed to spend the early part of the
summer upon a small island at the opening of Lake St. Clair."
Another author says : " The king and lord of all this country
lived in no royal state. His cabin was a small, oven-shaped
structure of bark and rushes. Here he dwelt with his squaws
and children ; and here, doubtless, he might often have been
seen carelessly reclining his naked form on a rush-mat or a
bear-skin, like an ordinary Indian warrior."
The other fifteen islands, most of them small, are situated
below Detroit, within the first twelve miles of the river after
entering it from Lake Erie, the largest of which is Gross£
Isle, attached to Michigan, on which are a number of exten-
sive and well -cultivated farms. This island has become a very
popular retreat for citizens of Detroit during the heat of sum-
mer, there being here located good public houses for the ac-
commodation of visitors.
\
DETROIT RIVER. 137
Father Hennepin, who was passenger on the " Griffin," the
first vessel that crossed Lake Erie, in 1679, in his description
of the scenery along the route, says: "The islands are the
finest in the world ; the strait is finer than Niagara ; the banks
are vast meadows, and the prospect is terminated with some
hills covered with vineyards, trees bearing good fruit, groves
and forests so well disposed that one would think that Nature
alone could not have made, without the help of art, so charming
a prospect."
COMPAEATIVE PUEITY OF DETEOIT EIYER WATER.
The following Table shows the solid matter in a gallon of
.water, taken from Lakes and Rivers in different cities :
Grs. solid matter. Grs. solid matter.
Albany, Hudson River 6.320 C Hemlock L. 1.330
Troy, Mohawk River 7.880 Rochester, N. Y. < Lake Ont . . 4.160
Boston, Cochituate Lake 1.850 ' Genesee E.11.210
New York, Croton River 6.993 Detroit, Detroit River 5.722
Brooklyn, L. I. Ponds 2.367 Cleveland, Lake Erie 5.000
Philadelphia, Schuylkill R. . . 4.260 Montreal, St. Lawrence E. . . . 5.000
Cincinnati, Ohio River 6.736
Of the Detroit River water, Prof. Douglass, in his report of
the analysis, says : " In estimating the value of your city water,
as compared with other cities, due allowance must be made for
the fact, that the total solid matter is materially increased by
the presence of silica, alumina, and iron, elements that can
produce little or no injury ; while the chlorides, much the most
injurious compounds, are entirely absent. The presence of
such large quantities of silica and iron is accounted for by the
fact, that Lakes Superior and Huron are formed, for the most
part, in a basin of ferruginous sandstone and igneous rock."
V 12«
138 FISHERIES.
LAKE AKD EIYEE FISHEEIES.
" The early French explorers of the Upper Lakes, in 1615,
make mention of the white fish and trout as being luxurious,
and much used for the sustenance of life by the sons of the
forest. From the time ciyilization daTvned upon the shores of
the lakes, the French settlers supplied themselves with them ;
and during the war of 1812, they were found of substantial
benefit to the soldiers in appeasing their hunger, for the want
of other supplies.
" Previous to the completion of the Erie Canal, salt was
mostly transported by the St. Lawrence, and thence up ahe
lakes, and obtained only at enormous prices. After the canal
was completed, in 1827, it became comparatively cheap, and
the fisheries were made profitable. In 1830, emigration to
Michigan rapidly commenced, and increased to such a degree
in 1834:, that the new-comers found it difficult to purchase pro-
duce, on account of the scarcity, as nearly every thing con-
sumed was imported from sister States. This caused a great
consumption of fish, and gave birth to the extension of river
and lake fisheries.
" From this time the business increased, and several grounds
were cleared on the St. Clair River, and as the market increased
they were extended to the shores of Lake Huron. Several
houses in Detroit became extensively engaged in the business,
employing vessels -exclusively in the trade. The American Fur
Company also engaged in it ; and, in 1841, two schooners were
taken over the falls at the Saut Ste Marie into Lake Superior,
for the purpose of fishing on that lake.
" There are a great variety of fish in the lakes besides white
fish and trout. Lake Superior abounds with the siskowit, ^
delicious fish, weighing from three to ten pounds. They <i.ke
exceedingly fat, and when tryed will yield 25 per cent, of oil
Sturgeon weighing upward of 100 pounds have been taken;
trout, 60 pounds ; maskalonge, 40 pounds ; pickerel, 15 pounds;
mullet, 10 pounds; bill-fish, six pounds; also cat-fish, her-
rings, eels, etc. In the vicinity of the Saut Ste Marie, a.id aV
the streams emptying into Lake Superior, large quantities ot
small speckled, or brook-trout, are taken.
" In 1840 there were 35.000 barrels of fish of various kinds
packed, and it is estimated that the quantity now annually
taken in American waters can not be less than 100,000 bar-
rels, besides what find their way to the Canadian markets
Detroit is the most extensive mart, where large quantities are
sold for home consumption ; and market is found for them in
New York, Pennsvlvania, Ohio, Indiana, and other Western
States."— See " Sketches of the City of Detroit," pub. in 1855.
STEAMBOAT ROUTE. ISf
The WMte Fish is regarded as the prince of fresh-water fish
Hem-y R. Schoolcraft, in his poem, " The White Fish," says:
" All friends to £rood living by tureen and dish.
Concur in exalting this prince of a fish ;
So fine in a platter, so tempting a fry.
5o rich on a gridiron, so sweetln a pie ;
That even before it the salmon must fail,
And that mighty honne-hmiche, of the land-beaver's tail
* * * * *
'Tis a morsel alike for the gourmand nr faster
"While, white as a tablet of pure alabaster \ '
lis beauty or flavor no person can doubt.
When seen in the water or tasted without-
And all the dispute that opinion ere makes
Of this king of lake fishes, this ' dee.r of the lakes '*
Regard not its choiceness to ponder or sup, '
But the best mode of dressing and serving it up.
* * * *
Here too, might a fancv to descant inclined
Contemplate the love that pertains to the kind
And brmg up the red man, in fanciful strains,'
To prove its creation from feminine brains "f
STEAMBOAT EOUTE FEOM CLEVELAND TO DETROIT.
Ports' etc. Miles- Ports, etc. Miles.
Clkveland, Ohio 0 Detroit, Mich 0
Point Pelee Is., and Light 60 Windsor, C. W 1
BarPoint, C. W 97 Fighting Island 8
Bois Blanc Is. Light, ) Fish Island 9
Detroit Ptiyer, 5 ' ' Wyandotte, Mich 11
Maiden, C. W 101 Mama Juba Is. and Light 12
Gibraltar, Mich Grosse Isle 1,3
Grosse Isle, " 102 Gibraltar, Mich
Mama Juba Is. and Light 108 Maiden, C. W 19
Wyandotte, Mich 109 Bois Blanc Is. Light, •)
Fish Island Light Ill Lake Erie, j . . 20
Fighting Island 112 Bar Point, C. W 23
Vi^indsor, C. W 119 Point Pel6e Island GO
^^-^^oiT 120 Clevela^vd 120
Fare, $3 00. Usual Time, 7 hours.
* nS "' S^^S^SS^^' *"^ '"'^^^ '^^-^ ^^ ^^- ^^^'
140 STEAMBOAT ROUTES.
CLEVELAIVD AND DETROIT STEAMERS DaCLY.
May Queew, 688 tons Capt. E. Vesie
Ocean, 900 ''■ " C. C. Blodgett.
STEAMEES EUNNING FEOM CLEVELA]SI"D AND DETEOIT TO
DIFFEEENT POETS ON THE UPPEE LAKES.
lake superior line, stopping at iviackiivac and saut
ste marie.
steamer Illinois, 926 tons Capt. Vuls^on.
" North Star, 1,106 tons '• B. G. Sweet.
" Planet, 1,154 tons " Nicholson.
Propeller Manhattan, 320 tons " John Spalding.
' Mineral Pvock, 560 '= " John Fraser.
Gen. Taylor, 462 " " R. Rider.
GEEEN BAY LINE, STOPPING AT MACKINAC, EUNS BETWEEN
BTJFFAXO, CLEVELAND, DETEOIT, AND GEEEN BAY.
Steamer Michigan, 642 tons Capt. A. Stewart.
Sultana, 650 " " Mead
DETROIT TO SAGINAW CITY.
Steamer Sam Ward, 433 tons Capt. H. Fish
RUNNING FROM DETROIT.
Steamer Ploughboy, 300 tons, Capt. D. Rowan, runs to Port
Sarnia and Goderich, C W.
Steamer Mazeppa, 250 tons, runs to Goderich and Saugeen
DETROIT TO PORT HURON AND FORRESTVILLE.
Steamer Forrester Capt. J. Robertson.
" Forest Queen " S. D. Woodworth,
Steamer Ariel, 165 tons, runs to New Baltimore, Mich.
" Albion, 132 tons, runs to Mt. Clemens.
STEAMBOAT ROUTES FROM DETROIT TO TOLEDO,
SAXDUSKY, ETC.
DETROIT AIVD TOLEDO STEAMBOAT LIN"E.
Arrow, 373 tons Capt. J. W. Keith.
Dart, 297 « " S. Dustin.
One of the above steamers runs daily to and from Toledo,
stopping at Wyandotte, Trenton, Monroe, and other ports on
the Michigan shore. Distance from Detroit to Toledo, by steam-
boat route, 70 miles.
DETROIT to SAXDtrSKY.
The steamer Bay Cif y, 479 tons, Capt. J. M. Lundy, runs
from Detroit to Sandusky, Ohio, connecting with railroad lines
running to Newark, Columbus, Cincinnati, etc.
Wyandotte, ten miles below Detroit, is a new and flourish-
ing manufacturing village, where are located the most extensive
iron works in Michigan.
Tre NTox, six miles farther, is the next steamboat landing.
The City of Monro e, capital of Monroe Co., Mich., is situated
on both sides of the river Raisin, three miles above its entrance
into Lake Erie, and about 40 miles from Detroit. It is con-
nected with the lake by a ship canal, and is the terminus of the
Michio;an Southern Railroad, which extends west, in connec-
tion with the Northern Indiana Railroad, to Chicago, 111. The
town contains about 5,000 inhabitants, a court-house and jail,
a United States land-oflfice, eight churches, several public-
houses, and a number of large stores of .diiferent kinds. Here
are two extensive piers, forming an outport at the mouth of the
river, where the steamers land and receive passengers ; the
railroad track running to the landing. A plank-road also runs
from the outport to the city, which is an old and interesting
locality, being formerly called Frenchtown, where a sanguin-
ary battle was fought during the war of 1812. The Detroit,
Monroe and Toledo Railroad, just completed, passes through
142
TOLL DO.
tliis city ; it being about 40 miles to Detroit and 22 miles to
Toledo by railroad route. This line of travel -svill be extended
south to Cincinnati. Steamers run from Detroit to Toledo,
stopping at Monroe daily during the season of navigation.
The City of Sandusky, capital of Erie Co., Ohio, is a port
of entry and flourishing place of trade. It is advantageously
situated on Sandusky Bay. three miles from Lake Erie, in N.
lat. 41° 27', W. long. 82° 45'. The bay is about 20 miles long,
and five or six miles in "width, forming a capacious and excel-
lent harbor, into "which steamers and vessels of all sizes can
enter "with safety. The average depth of "water is from ten to
twelve feet. The -city is built on a bed of limestone, producing
a good building material. It contains about 10,000 inhabitants,
a court-house and jail, eight churches* two banks, several well-
kept hotels, and a number of large stores and manufacturing
establishments of different kinds. This is the terminus of the
Mad River and Lake Erie Railroad, running to Dayton, 153
miles, and the Sandusky, Mansfield and Newark Railroad, 116
miles in length. The Cleveland and Toledo Eaili-oad, northern
di"vision, also runs through Sandusky, affording altogether great
facilities to travelers, in connection "with a line of steamers
running to Detroit, Cleveland, and Buffalo
The City of Toledo is situated on the Maumee River, four
miles from its mouth, and ten miles from the Turtle Island
Light, at the outlet of the Maumee Bay into Lake Erie. The
harbor is good, and the na"7igable channel from Toledo to the
lake is of sufficient depth for all steamers or sail vessels navi-
gating the lakes, "with the exception of a short distance through
the bay, which requires deepening from one to two feet. Toledo
is the eastern terminus of the Wabash and Erie Canal, run-
ning through the Maumee and Wabash valleys, and communi-
cating "with the Ohio River ^t Evansville, a distance of 474
miles; also of the Miami and Erie Canal, which branches
from the above canal 68 miles west of Toledo, and runs
southwardly through the Miami Valley in AYestern Ohio, and
communicates "with the Ohio River at Cincinnati.
TOLEDO. 143
" The railroads diverging from Toledo are the Michigan Sou-
thern and JVorthern Indiana Railroad, running through the
southern counties of Michigan and the northern counties of
Indiana, and making its western terminus at Chicago, Illinois,
at a distance of 243 miles ; also, the Air Line Railroad, run-
ning due west from Toledo, through J'orthwestern Ohio and the
northern counties of Indiana to Goshen, a distance of 110 miles,
where it connects with the Northern Indiana Railroad, runnino-
to Chicago; also the terminus of the Jackson Branch of the
Michigan Southern Road, and the Detroit, Monroe and Toledo
Railroad.
" It is also the eastern terminus of the Tohdo, Wabash
and Westrrn Railroad, running in a southwesterly direction
through the Maumee and Wabash valleys, crossing the eastern
line of the State of Illinois, about 125 miles south of Chicago,
and continuing in a southwesterly course through Danville,
Springfield, Jacksonville, Naples, etc., in Central Illinois, to the
^lississippi River, and connecting with the Hannibal and St,
Joseph Road, which stretches nearly due west through the State
of Missouri to St. Joseph, on the Missouri River. It also, in
connection ^th other roads, affords a through line of travel to
St. Louis. The Dayton and Michigan Railroad (to be com-
pleted the present year), which connects Toledo with Cincin-
nati, is much the shortest railroad line connecting Lake Erie
with the Ohio River. Besides the above important roads, the
Cleveland and Toledo Railroad terminates here.
" Toledo is the nearest point for the immense country trav-
ersed by these canals and railroads, where a transfer can be
made of freight to the more cheap transportation by the lakes,
and thence through the Erie Canal, "Welland Canal, or Oswego
Canal, to the sea-board. It is not merely the country traversed
by these canals and railroads that send their products, and re-
ceive their merchandise, through Toledo, but many portions of
the States of Kentucky, Tennessee, Missouri, and Iowa find
Toledo the cheapest and most expeditious lake-port for the in-
terchange and transfer of their products and merchandise."
This city is the capital of Lucas County, Ohio, where is situ-
ated a court-house and jail, several fine churches and school
edifices, six hotels, and a great number of stores and store-
houses, also several extensive manufacturing establishments.
The population of Toledo in 1850 was about 4,000, and now
it is supposed to contain 12,000 inhabitants, and is rapidly in-
creasing in wealth and numbers. The shipping interest is in-
creasing, here being transhipped annually an enormous amount
144 MAUMEE KIVER.
of grain, and other kinds of agricultural product of the great
West ; it being, no doubt, destined, like Chicago, to export direct
to European ports, lying as it does on the direct railroad and
steamboat route from St. Louis to Montreal.
At this time there are in process of erection in Toledo
many handsome dwellings, numerous handsome blocks of stores,
a post-office and custom-house by the general government, and
a first-class hotel ; these two latter buildings, from the plans
we have seen, would do credit to any city, and when completed
can be classed among the most elegant structiu'es. No city in
the State can boast of finer private residences than Toledo ; and
the general character of the buildings erected in the past three
years is substantial and elegant.
PerrysburGj capital of Wood Co., Ohio, is situated on the
right bank of the Maumee River, 18 miles above its entrance
into Maumee Bay, the southern termination of Lake Erie. It
contains a court-house and jail, four churches, 20 stores of dif-
ferent kinds, three steam saw-mills, a tannery, and several
other manufacturing establishments. Population about 1,500.
Here is the head of steamboat navigation on the Maumee Piiver,
affording thus far a sufficient depth of water for steamers of a
large class.
Matjmee City, capital of Lucas Co., Ohio, and a port of
entry, is situated on the Maumee River, opposite Perrysburg,
at the foot of the rapids and at the head of navigation, nine
miles above Toledo. A side cut here connects the Wabash and
Erie Canal with the river The Toledo and Illinois Railroad
also passes through this place. It contains a court-house, five
churches, 80 stores, four flouring-mills, three saw-mills, one
oil-mill, and other manufacturing establishments propelled by
water-power, the supply being here almost inexhaustible.
Maumee River rises in the northeast part of Indiana, and
flowing northeast enters Lake Erie, through Maumee Bay. It
is about 100 miles long, navigable 18 miles, and furnishing an
extensive water-power throughout its course.
TRIP FROM BUFFALO TO DETROIT-DIRECT.
Commodious steamers of about two thousand tons turden
leave Buffalo direct for Detroit, daily, Sundays excepted, at ten
o'clock P.M., or on the arrival of the Eastern express train of
cars, leaving Albany the same morning; also, connects with
cars from Niagara Falls, etc.
On leaving the wharf at Buffalo, the steamers usually run
direct for Long Point on the Canada, or north shore of Lake
Erie, proceeding for most of the distance in British waters, to
the mouth of Detroit River.
LoxG Point, 65 miles from Buffalo, is a long strip of land,
nearly 20 miles long and from one to three miles in width,
covered for the most part with a stunted growth of forest trees.
It was formerly a peninsula, running out from the land in an
easterly direction, nearly half way across the lake ; but the
waters having made a wide breach across its western extremity,
has converted it into an island. There is an important light-
house on the east end to guide the mariner on his passage
through Lake Erie, here about 40 miles wide, and where is
found the greatest depth of water. To this Point both shores
of the lake can be seen in a clear morning from the deck of the
steamer, affording a most grand sight when the sun rises on a
cloudless day. Then may usually been seen a fleet of vessels
wending their way toward Buffalo or the mouth of the Welland
Canal, through which channel annually passes a great number
of steam propellers and sail vessels on their way to Lake Onta-
rio and the St. Lawrence Eiver.
Port Colbqrxe, C. "W., situated about 20 miles west of
Buffalo, lie? at the mouth of the Welland Canal, while Port
Maitland, some 20 miles farther, is situated at the mouth of
Grand River, where is a navigable feeder communicating with
the canal, thus affording two entrances to the above canal.
13
146 BUFFALO TO DETROIT.
Port Dover, about 70 miles west of Buffalo and 40 miles
distant from Hamilton by proposed railroad route, is situated
on the north shore of Lake Erie, at the mouth of the river Lynn.
Here is a good harbor, and the village is a place of growing
importance, containing about 1,000 inhabitants.
Port Ryerse and Port Rowan are small villages on the
Canada shore, situated on the bay formed by Long Point.
Inland there is to be found a rich and fine farming district,
consisting of some of the best lands in Canada West.
The Sand Hills, immediately west of Long Point, are seen
for some distance as the steamer pursues her onward course
toward Point aux Pins, passing through the widest part of the
lake, where both shores are lost sight of for a number of miles.
The water usually presents a clear green color in the middle,
but near the shore is more or less tinged with muddy water,
proceeding from the streams emptying into the lake.
Port Bur well, C. W., about 35 miles west of Long Point,
is handsomely situated at the mouth of Otter Creek. Here is a
light-house and good harbor. A large amount of lumber and
other products are annually exported from this place to Eastern
markets.
Port Stastley, about 25 miles farther west, is handsomely
situated at the mouth of Kettle Creek, being in part surrounded
by high and picturesque hills in the immediate vicinity. The
harbor is well protected, and much frequented by British and
American vessels running on Lake Erie. It is nine miles south
of St. Thomas and twenty-four from London, the chief town
of the county of Middlesex, for which place it may be consid-
ered the ont-port. A plank-road runs between the two places ;
also, the London and Port Stanley Railroad, connecting with
the Great Western Railway of Canada. Steamers run from
Port Stanley to Buffalo, Cleveland, and other ports on Lake
Erie.
Point atjx Pins, or Rond' Eau (usually called by the
American navigators Rouiid 0), about 100 miles west of Long
Point, is a cape which projects from the Canada shore, inclosing
BUFFALO TO DETROIT. 147
a natural basin of about 6,000 acres in extent, 'witli a deptL
of from ten to twelve feet, thus forming an excellent and secure
harbor, the entrance to which has been improved by the Cana-
dian government by running out piers, etc. It is proposed to
construct a ship canal from this port to the St. Clair River, a
distance of about 35 miles, thus avoiding the St. Clair F/ats.
Another Canadian project is to construct a canal from Goderich
to Hamilton, C. W., about 120 miles in length.
PonvT Pel.ee, lying about 40 miles east of the mouth of De-
troit River, projects a number of miles into Lake Erie, and
forms, in connection with the island of Point Pelee and other
islands in the vicinity, the most picturesque portion of lake
scenery to be met with on this inland sea.
PorvT Pelee Islaxd, belonging to Canada, is about seven
miles long and two or three miles in width. It is inhabited by
a few settlers. The island is said to abound with red cedar,
and possesses a fine limestone quarry. A light-house is situ-
ated on the east side.
The steamers bound for Detroit River usually pass to the
north side of Point Pelee Island, and run across Pigeon Bay
toward Bar Point, situated at the jnouth of Detroit River.
Several small islands are passed on the south, called East Sis-
ter, Middle Sister, and West Sister; also, in the distance,
may be seen the Bass Islands, known as the " North Bass,"
" Middle Bass," and " South Bass." On the west side of the
latter lies the secure harbor of Put-iiv-Bay, celebrated as the
rendezvous of Com. Perry's fleet, before and after the glorious
naval victory which he achieved over the British fleet, Septem-
ber 10th, 1813.
Detroit River, forming one of the links between the Upper
and Lower Lakes, is next approached, near the mouth of which
may be seen a light on the Michigan shore called Gibraltar
Light, and another light on an island attached to Canada, the
steamers usually entering the river through the east or Brit-
ish Channel of the river, although vessels often pass through
the west or American Channel
13*
148
BUFFALO TO DEIROIT.
Amherstburg, C. W., 18 miles below Detroit, is an old and
important town. The situation is good ; the banks of the river,
both above and below the village, but particularly the latter'
where the river emerges into Lake Erie, are very beautiful ;
several handsome residences may here be seen, surrounded by
highly cultivated grounds. About a mile below the town is a
chalybeate spring, which is said to resemble the waters of
Cheltenham, in England. British and American vessels fre-
quently land at Amherstburg, on their trips to and from the
Upper Lakes.
Fort Malden", capable of accommodating a regiment of
troops, is situated about half a mile above Amherstburg. on
the east bank of the river, the channel of which it here com-
mands.
At Brownstowk-, situated on the opposite side of the river,
in Michigan, is the battle-ground where the Americans, under
disadvantageous circumstances, and with a slight loss, routed
the British forces, which lay in ambush, as the former were on
their way to relieve the fort at Frenchtown, which event occur-
red August 5, 1812.
Sandwich, C. W., is beautifully situated on the river, two
miles below Detroit, and nine miles below Lake St. Clair. It
stands on a gently sloping bank a short distance from the river,
which is here about a mile wide. This is one of the oldest
settlements in Canada West.
WmnsoR, C. W., situated in the township of Sandwich, is a
village directly opposite Detroit, with which it is connected by
three steam ferries. It was laid out in 1834, and is now a place
of considerable business, having a population of about 2,000
inhabitants. Here terminates the Great Western Railway
of Canada, which extends from Niagara Falls or Suspension
Bridge, via Hamilton and London, to opposite Detroit— thus
forming an important link in the great line of railroads, now
finished, running from the sea-board at different points to ihQ
Mississippi River
BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, DETROIT, ETC. 149
STEAMEES EUNNIXG FEOM BUFFALO TO DIFFEEENT POETS
ON LAKE EEIE, ETC.— 1357.
MICHIGAIV CENTRAL RAILROAD LINE
Steamer Plymouth Rock, 2,000 tons. . . .Capt. P. J. Pialph.
Mississippi, 1,880 " " S. G. Langley.
Western World, 2,000 " " J. S. Richards.
One of the above splendid steamers leaves the foot of Erie
Street, Buffalo, every evening (Sundays excepted) at 9 p.m.,
direct for Detroit, connecting with trains on the Michigan Cen-
tral Railroad, running to Chicago, etc.
C. E. Noble, Gen. Agent, Buffalo
MICHIGAN southern RAILROAD LINE
Southern Michigan, 1,470 tons .... Capt. L. B. Goldsmith.
Western Metropolis, 1,830 " " I. T. Pheatt.
City of Buffalo, 2,200 " " A. D. Perkins.
One of the above new and popular steamers usually leaves the
foot of Main Street, Buffalo, daily (Sundays excepted), direct
for Toledo, connecting with trains on the Michigan Southern
and Northern Indiana railroads, running to Chicago, etc. This
line also connects with trains of cars running from Toledo tc
Lafayette, Ind., St. Louis, etc.
C. Forbes, Geii. Agent, Buffalo.
CLEVELAND, COLUMBUS AND CINCINNATI RAILROAD LIN'E.
Sieamer Cre?^cent City 1,740 tons, Capt. Wm. T. Pease.
" Queen OF the West, 1,850 " " D. H.McBride.
One of the above steamers usually leaves Buffalo at 8 o'clock
p.m., direct for Cleveland, 0., connecting with trains on the
Cleveland, Columbus and Cincinnati Railroad.
J. C. Harrison, GeJi. Agent, Buffalo.
Steamer Clifton, Capt. H. Van Allen, runs from Buffalo to
Chippewa, C. W., daily, connecting with the Erie and Ontario
Railroad, forming a through line of travel to Niagara Falls,
Toronto, etc.
Steamer Mohawk runs from Buffalo to Port Stanley, etc.,
connecting with the London ana Port Stanley Railroad.
13*
150 BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS TO DETROIT.
EAILROAD EOUTE FEOM NIAGAEA FALLS TO HAMILTCN
AND DETEOIT, via GEEAT WESTEEN EAILWAY OF
CANADA.
This great International Line, extending from Niagara River
to Detroit River, opposite the city of Detroit, a distance of 229
miles, passes through a fine and interesting section of country,
equal in many respects to Western New York. It connects
with the New York Central and Buffalo and Niagara Falls
Railroad, forming a great through route of travel.
Starting from the Suspension Bridge at Clifton, two miles
below the Falls of Niagara, the passenger train soon reaches the
verge of the mountain ridge overlooking the plain below, while
in the distance may be seen the broad waters of Lake Ontario,
usually studded with sail vessels and propellers on their way to
or from the mouth of the Welland Canal.
" Traced like a map, the landscape lies
In cultured beauty stretching wide."
Thorold, nine miles, is situated on the line of the Welland
Canal, where is abundant water-power propelling five or six flour-
ing-mills. A railroad extends to Port Dalhousie, some five or six
miles distant, connecting with a steamer running to Toronto.
This road will be extended to Port Colbourne, on Lake Erie, about
twenty miles distant.
St. CATHERmEs, 12 miles from the Suspension Bridge, is a
flourishing town, also situated on the line of the Welland Canal,
which connects Erie and Ontario. This has become of late a
fashionable place of resort during the summer months, caused
by the mineral waters of the " Artesian Wells" obtaining great
celebrity, owing to their curative properties. Here are two or
three weU-kept hotels for the accommodation of visitors. For
further description of this place, see page 238.
Beamsville, twenty-two miles from the Suspension Bridge,
is a thriving village, about one mile from the station.
Grimsby, five miles farther, is situated on Forty-mile Creek,
the scene of some hard figliting during the war of 1812. It is a
BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS TO DETROIT. 151
small village of 350 inhalDitaiits ; there are two churches, a
hotel, and several stores ; also, a grist and saw- mills propelled
by water-power,
Ha:mtx.ton, 43 miles from Suspension Bridge, is the principal
station on the line of the Great Western Railway, where are
located the principal of&ces and workshops connected with the
company. Here is a commodious depot and steamboat landing.
Carriages and omnibuses are always in readiness to convey
passengers to the hotels in the city, which is more fully de-
scribed on page —
The Toronto Branch of the Great "Western Railway com-
mences at Hamilton, and extends a distance of thirty-eight
miles to the city of Toronto, running near the shore of Lake
Ontario.
On leaving Hamilton for Windsor or Detroit, the road passes
near the mansion of Sir Allan M'Nab, and over the Des Jardines
Canal, entering the head of Burlington Bay.* Here is also a
Suspension Bridge in sight, thrown over the stream as it cuts its
way through the high bank which encircles the bay or lake.
This point presents a beautiful view, both on leaving or arriving
at the head- waters of Lake Ontario.
Du^'DAs, five miles from Hamilton, is situated on rising
ground on the side of the mountain, and is a thriving manu-
facturing place, having the advantage of a stream which flows,
or rather rushes, with great impetuosity through its center,
working on its way numerous mills. The Des Jardines Canal
runs from hence to Burlington Bay, enabling the manufacturers
to ship their goods at their own doors. Among the manufac-
tories are flouring-mills, a paper-mill, a foundry, which is an
extensive establishment, where machinery of every kind and
steam-engines are made to a large extent ; an axe factory, a
woolen factory ; two newspapers, and several places of wor-
ship. Population 3,500.
* On Thursday, March 12th, 185T, the most fearful accident on record
occurred at this bridge, killing about seventy passengers, men, women, and
children, being on their way from Toronto to Hamilton.
152 BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS TO DETROIT.
Harrisburg, nineteen miles from Hamilton, is the station of
the Gait Branch of the Great Western Railway.
Paris, with the Upper and Lower Town, contains about 3,500
inhabitants ; so called from its contiguity to beds of gypsum or
plaster of Paris. It possesses a considerable amount of water-
power, which works numerous mills. There are two foundries,
a tannery, machine-shop, distillery, saw-mill, etc. The Buf-
falo and Lake Huron Railway intersects the Great Western
at this point, running to Goderich, on Lake Huron.
Woodstock, 48 miles from Hamilton and 138 from Wind-
sor, is a county town, well situated on rolling ground, and
contains about 4,500 inhabitants. It may be called a town of
magnificent distances ; East and West Woodstock forming a street
upward of a mile in length. The vacant spaces, however, are
fast being tilled up with stately edifices, and it will thus in a
short time become one of the handsomest thoroughfares in
Canada. In this locality, noted for its handsome country seats
— and indeed all the way from Hamilton — the land as seen from
the road (the railroad for the most part passes through a new
country) is rolling and well cleared of trees and stumps, pre-
senting more the appearance of " merrie England" than any
other section of the Province.
IxGERSoLL, nine miles farther, formerly an Indian village,
now contains about 2,000 inhabitants. A small arm of the
Thames runs through it, and furnishes some water-power, by
which several mills are worked. Since the opening of the rail-
way it has risen in a surprising manner; and the town, which
before then had a very dingy appearance, the houses being of
wood and wanting paint, is now gay with white brick, and the
streets resound with the hum of an enterprising population.
LoNDox, 119 miles from Suspension Bridge and 110 from
Windsor, if not, like her English namesake,
The great resort
Of all the earth — checkered with all
Complexions of mankind —
is nevertheless a very stirring business place, and presents an-
other instance of the energy and enterprise of the Canadian.
Ten years ago, this then ver}'- small village of wooden houses
was entirely buimed down, and now on its ashes is raised a most
flourishing city, containing four banks, several wholesale houses,
fifteen churches, many of them handsome structures, and the
English Church having a fine peal of bells ; life and fire in-
surance offices, breweries and distilleries. It has three news-
papers and several good hotels. Population nearly 18,000. It
is well watered by the river Thames, which, however, is only
navigable up to Chatham, sixty miles distant.
BUFFALO TO uoDERICH. 153
The London and Port Stanley Railroad here joins the Great
Western Railway ; length twenty-four miles, running south to
Lake Erie.
Chatham, forty-six miles from Windsor, situated on the
river Thames, possesses the great advantage of a navigation,
and is therefore a place of considerable business. It contains
eight churches ; and being the county town of Kent, it has a
court-house, a very handsome building, several grist and saw-
mills, woolen factory, two foundries, machine shop, etc. Nu-
merous steamers and sail vessels have been built at this place.
Steamers ply between Chatham, Detroit, and Amherstburg.
Population about 5,000.
WiisrDsoR, 229 miles from Suspension Bridge, opposite Detroit,
prettily situated on the banks of the river, is a place of con-
siderable business, and is rapidly increasing in wealth and
population, owing to the advantage it has of being the western
terminus of the Great Western Kailway. Of course Windsor
must have a " Castle," and the hotel of that name will be found
excellent. Population, 2,000.
Three steam-ferries ply between Windsor and Detroit, making
close connections for the benefit of railroad passengers.
For further information in regard to this route — See Canada
Railway and Steam Navigation Guide.
BUFFALO TO GODERICH, C. W., via BUFFALO AND LAKE
HUEON EAILWAT.
Office, 37 Exchange Street, Buffalo, N. Y.
This important line of travel extends from Buffalo, N. Y.,
crossing Niagara River by means of a steam ferry at Black
Rock to Fort Erie, on the Canada side. It is proposed to con-
struct a permanent railroad bridge of about one mile in length,
a short distance above the present ferry. From Fort Erie the
line of the railway extends westward within a short distance of
Lake Erie for forty miles, to Dunnville, situated at the mouth
of Grand River, crossing the Welland Canal.
From Dunnville the road runs along the valley of the river on
the north side to Brantford, thirty-eight miles farther, and from
thence extends westward to Paris, where it connects with the
Great Western Railway of Canada. The line thence runs to
Stratford, C. W., where it connects with the Grand Trunk
154 BUFFALO TO GODERICH.
Railway, a total distance from Buffalo of 116 mJes. To tMs
point the road is now completed and in running order, and will
be finished through to Goderich, situated on Lake Huron, during
the year 1857.
DupfviLLE is advantageously situated on the Grand River, at
a point where it is intersected by the feeder of the Welland
Canal. It is a place of considerable business, and contains
several grist, saw, and plaster mills, and a tannery. Popula-
tion, about 1,500.
The Welland Canal is one of the many works of the same
kind of which Canadians may be proud. This Canal affords a
passage for propellers, sloops and schooners of 125 tons burden,
around the Falls of Niagara, and connects Lake Erie with Lake
Ontario. It is 42 miles long, including feeder, 56 feet wide, and
from 8J to 16 feet deep. The whole descent from one lake to the
other is 334 feet, which is accomplished by 37 locks.
Brantford, 78 miles from Buffalo and 82 miles from God-
erich, is beautifully situated on Grand River, and named after
Brant, the renowned chief of the Six Nations Indians, who,
with his tribe, steadily supported the British Crown during the
American War. " In ' Gertrude of Wyoming^ he is alluded to
in disparaging terms :
' The mammoth comes— the fiend, the monster Brant.'
But some years afterward Campbell was obliged to apologize to
Brant's son, who happened to visit London ; as it appeared, on
satisfa<;tory evidence, his father was not even present at the
horrible desolation of Wyoming. This much is due to the mem-
ory of Brant, who was a brave warrior and a steadfast ally of
the British, and always exerted himself to mitigate the horrors
of war."
Brantford, until the opening of the Great Western Railway,
was a great wheat market, the streets being crowded with hun-
dreds of wagons daily ; but that road created other markets,
and to this extent the town has suffered. It has, however, other
sources of prosperity. There is no place in the Province which
commands such extensive water-power, and which is mada
BUFFALO TU GODERICH. 155
available for the working of numerous mills. The iron foun-
dries, machine shops, and potteries are on a large scale, and
have caused the place to be regarded as the Birmingham of
Canada. It has a goodly number of churches of various denomi-
nations, and one of the largest and handsomest hotels in the
Province — " The Kirby House." Population about 6,000.
Stratford, is a new and thriving town, favorably situated
on the line of the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada. This
section of Canada enjoys a good climate and fertile soil, produc-
ing cereal grains in great abundance.
The distance from Stratford to Goderich, by railroad route, is
44 miles, which, when completed, will afford a direct and speedy
route from Buffalo to Lake Huron, a total distance of 160 miles.
GoDK.RicH, C. W., is advantageously situated at the mouth of
Maitland River, here affording a safe and good harbor for ves-
sels of a large size. The village is beautifully situated on ele-
vated ground, rising about 150 feet above the waters of Lake
Huron. The population now amounts to about 4,000, and is
rapidly increasing in numbers and wealth. Steamers run from
this port to Port Sarnia, Detroit, and Saginaw, and other har-
bors on the Upper Lakes.
The Buffalo and Lake Huron Railway Company is pushing
with energy the completion of this road, and the improvement
of its passenger and freight capacity. We learn that the board
of directors, at a late meeting in London, England, appropriated
$1,300,000 for the construction of a steam ferry to run be-
tween Fort Erie and Black Rock, which shall be able to trans-
fer sis cars at a time from one side of the river to the other ;
for the construction of slips and docks on both sides to accomo-
date the steamer ; for the construction of a track from Black
Rock into the city of Buffalo, and to improve the harbor at
Goderich, the terminus of the road on Lake Huron.
TABLE OF DISTAXCES
FEOM BUFFALO TO TOLEDO.— LAKE EEIE EOUTE.
Ports, etc. Miles.
Buffalo, N. Y 0
Silver Creek, " 84
Dunkirk, " 42
Portland, " 62
Erie, Pa 90
Conneaut, Ohio 117
Ashtabula, " 131
Painesville, " 156
Cleveland, " 185
Kelley's Island 240
Sandusky " 245
South Bass Island 245
West Sister Island 263
Turtle Island 275
Maumee Bay 278
Toledo, Ohio 285
Note. — The direct through
from Buffalo to Toledo is about
Erie being about 560 miles.
Ports, etc.
Miles.
Toledo, Ohio
.... 0
IMaumee Bay
. . . . 1
Turtle Island
.... 10
West Sister Island . .
. . . . 22
South Bass Island . . . ,
. . . . 40
Kelley's Island
. . . . 45
Sandusky, Ohio....
... 50
Cleveland, " . . . ,
.... 100
Painesville, '' . . . .
, ... 129
Ashtabula, " . . . ,
, ... 154
Conneaut, " . . . ,
, ... 168
Erie, Pa
, . . . 195
Portland, N. Y
. ... 233
Dunkirk, "
, ... 243
Silver Creek, "
. ... 251
Buffalo, "
... 285
route as run by the steamers
250 miles ; the circuit of Lake
OOMPAEATIYE INCEEASE OF LAKE CITIES.
1840. 1850. 1853. 1856.
Buffalo, N.Y 18,213 42,261 60,000* 85,000
Chicago, 111 4,470 28,269 60,000 100,000
Cleveland, 0 6,071 17,034 40,000t 50.000
Detroit, Mich 9,102 21,019 34,436 48,000
Milwaukee, Wis. .. . 1,700 20,061 25,000 42,000
Oswego, N. Y 12,205 16,000
Sandusky, 0 1,434 6,008 8,000 10,000
Toledo, 0 1,222 3,829 6,412 12,000
* Black Book annexed. t Ohio City annexed.
TRIP FROM BUFFALO TO CLEYELAXD SAXDUSKT,
TOLEDO, ETC.
Steamers of a large class leave Buffalo, daL y, Sundays ex-
cepted, for the different ports on the American or south shore
of Lake Erie, connecting with railroad cars at Clevela'nd, San-
dusky, and Toledo.
On leaving Buffalo harhor, -which is formed by the mouth of
Buffalo Creek, where is erected a breakwater by the United
States government, a fine view is afforded of the city of Buffalo,
the Canada shore, and Lake Erie stretching off in the distance,
with here and there a steamer or sail vessel in sight. As the
steamer proceeds westward through the middle of the lake, the
landscape fades in the distance, until nothing is visible but a
broad expanse of green waters.
Sturgeon- Point, 20 miles from Buffalo, is passed on the
south shore, when the lake immediately -widens by the land
receding on both shores. During the prevalence of storms,
when the full blast of the wind sweeps through this lake, its
force is now felt in its full power, driving the angry waves for-
ward -with the velocity of the race-horse, often causing the
waters to rise at the lower end of the lake to a great height
so as to overflow its banks, and forcing its surplus waters into
the Niagara River, which causes the only perceptible rise and
increase of the rush of waters at the Falls.
Dunkirk, N. Y., 42 miles from B'affalo, is advantageously
situated on the shore of Lake Erie where terminates the A^eiv
York and Erie Railroad, 4G0 miles in length. Here is a good
and secure harbor, affording about twelve feet of water over
the bar. A light-house, a beacon light and breakwater, the
latter in a dilapidated state, have here been erected by the
United States government. As an anchorage and port of
refuge this harbor is extremely valuable, and is much resorted
14
158 BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC.
to for that purpose by steamers and sail vessels during the
prevalence of storms ; there is twelve feet of water over the
bar.
The village was incorporated in 1837, and now contains
about 4,000 inhabitants, 500 dwelling-houses, five churches, a
bank, three hotels, and 20 stores of different kinds, besides
several extensive storehouses and manufacturing establish-
ments.
The Buffalo and State Line Railroad, extending to Erie,
Pa., runs through Dunkirk, forming in part the Lake Shore
line of railroad, which in connection with the railroad leading
direct to the city of New York, affords great advantages to this
locality, which is no doubt destined to increase with the grow-
ing trade of the lake country.
Fredon^ia, three miles from Dunkirk, with which it is con-
nected by a plank-road, is handsomely situated, being elevated
about 100 feet above Lake Erie. It contains about 2,300
-inhabitants, 300 dwelling-houses, five churches, one bank, an
incorporated academy, four taverns, twenty stores, besides
some mills and manufacturing establishments situated on Cana-
doway Creek, which here affords good water-power. In the
village, near the bed of the creek, is an inflammable spring,
from which escapes a sufficient quantity of gas to light the
village. A gasometer is constructed which forces the gas
through tubes to different parts of the village, the consumer
paying $4 per year for each burner used. It is also used for
lighting the streets of the village. The flame is large, but not
so strong or brilliant as that obtained from gas in our cities ;
t is, however, in high favor with the inhabitants.
Barcelona, N. Y., 58 miles from Buffalo, is the westernmost
village in the State. It is a port of entry, and is much resorted
to by steamers and large vessels navigating the lake, affording
a tolerable good harbor, where is situated a light-house which
is lighted by inflammable gas ; it escapes from the bed of a
creeK about half a mile distant, and is carried in pipes to the
liglit-house.
BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC 159
The City of E{iie, Pa., 90 miles from Buffalo and 95 miles
from Cleveland, is beautifully situated on a bluff, affording a
prospect of Presque Isle Bay and the lake beyond. It has one
of the largest and best harbors on Lake Erie, from whence
sailed Perry's fleet during the "war of 1812. The most of the
vessels were here built, being finished in seventy days from the
time the trees were felled ; and here the gallant victor returned
with his prizes after the battle of Lake Erie, which took place
September 10th, 1813. The remains of his flag-ship, the Law-
rence, lie in the harbor, from which visitors are allowed to cut
pieces as relics. On the high bank, a little distance from the
town, are the ruins of the old French fort, Presque Isle. The
city contains a court-house, nine churches, a bank, three hotels,
a ship-yard, several extensive manufacturing establishments,
and about 7.000 inhabitants. In addition to the Lake Shoi-e
Railroad, the Sunbury and Erie Railroad will terminate at
this place, affording a direct communication with New York and
Philadelphia.
Presque Isle Bay is a lovely sheet of water, protected by
an island projecting into Lake Erie. There is a light-house
on the west side of the entrance to the bay, in lat. 42° 8' N. ;
it shows a fixed light, elevated 93 feet above the surface of the
lake, and visible for a distance of 15 miles. The beacon shows
a fixed light, elevated 28 feet, and is visible for nine miles.
Coivjveaut, Ohio, 117 miles from Buffalo and 68 from Cleve-
land, situated in the northeast corner of the State, stands on a
creek of the same name near its entrance into Lake Erie. It
exports large quantities of lumber, grain, pork, beef, butter,
cheese, etc., being surrounded by a rich agricultural section
of country. The village contains about 3.000 inhabitants.
The harbor of Conneaut lies two miles from the village, where
is a light-house, a pier, and several warehouses.
Ashtabula, Ohio, 14 miles farther west, stands on a stream
of the same name, near its entrance into the lake. This is a
thriving place, inhabited by an intelligent population estimated
at 2,500. The harbor of Ashtabula is two and a half milp=
160 BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC.
from the village,, at the mouth of the river, where is a light-
house.
F AIRPORT stands on the east side of Grand River, 15-5 miles
from Buffalo. It has a good harbor for lake vessels, and is a
port of considerable trade. This harbor is so well defended
from winds and easy of access, that vessels run in when they
can not easily make other ports. Here is a light-house and a
beacon to guide the mariner.
PAijfEsviLLE, 0., three miles from Fairport and 30 miles
from Cleveland, is a beautiful and flourishing town, being sur-
rounded by a fine section of country. It is the county seat for
Lake County, and contains a court-house, five churches, a bank,
20 stores, a number of beautiful residences, and about 3,000
inhabitants.
The City of Cleveland is situated on an elevated plain at
the entrance of Cuyahoga River into Lake Erie, in N. lat. 41° 30',
W. Ion. 81° 47'. It is distant 185 miles from Buffalo, and 107
miles from Toledo by railroad route ; 120 miles from Detroit by
steamboat route. Its harbor is spacious and safe when once
entered, being formed by the mouth of the river. The city is
regularly and beautifully laid out, ornamented with numerous
shade-trees, from which it takes the name of " Forest City ;"
near its center is a large public square. It is the mart of one
of the greatest grain-growing States in the Union, and has a
ready communication by railroad with Albany, New York, and
Philadelphia. The bluff on which it is built is 80 feet above
the level of the lake, where stands a light-house, from which an
extensive and magnificent view is obtained, overlooking the
meandering of the Cuyahoga, the line of railroads, the shipping
in the harbor, and the vessels passing on Lake Erie.
The city contains a court-house, city hall, custom-house,
college buildings, a lyceum, a public reading-room, a literary
institution, which sustains a course of lectures during the
winter season; 2-5 churches of different denominations, six
banks, an insurance company, and several large and well-kept
hotels, among which may be named the "Weddell House, the
BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC. 161
Angier House, the American Hotel, and the Johnson House.
It now boasts of 50,000 inhabitants, and is rapidly increasing
in numbers and wealth. The Ohio Canal terminates here,
forming a water communication with the Ohio River at different
points.
The railroads diverging from Cleveland are the Cleveland
and Erie, 95 miles; Cleveland and Pittsburgh, 100 miles, with
several branches ; Cleveland and Mahoning, 67 miles finished ;
Cleveland, Columbus and Cincinnati, 135 miles; and Cleveland
and Toledo, Northern Division, 107 miles. These roads all run
into one general depot, situated near the water s edge, afford-
ing great facilities to the trans-shipment of freight of different
kinds. The trade with the Upper Lakes is one of great and
growing importance ; steamers leave daily for Detroit, Macki-
nac, Green Bay, Chicago, the Saut Ste Marie, and Lake Superior.
For list of steamers sailing from Cleveland and Detroit to
the Upper Lakes, see page 140.
Black River, 28 miles from Cleveland, is a small village
with a good harbor, where is a ship-yard and other manufac-
turing establishments.
Vermiliox, 10 miles farther on the line of the Cleveland
and Toledo Railroad, is a place of considerable trade, situated
at the mouth of a river of the same name.
HuRox, Ohio, 50 miles from Cleveland and 10 miles from
Sandusky, is situated at the mouth of Huron River, which
affords a good harbor. It contains several churches, 15 or 20
stores, several warehouses, and about 2,000 inhabitants
The islands lying near the head of Lake Erie, off Sandusky,
are Kelley's Island, North Bass, Middle Bass, and South
Bass islands, besides several smaller islands, forming altogether
a handsome group. Kelley's Island is the largest and most
important, but on the north side of South Bass Island lies the
secure harlwr of Put-in Bay, made celebrated by being the
rendezvous of Com. Perry's flotilla before and after the decisive
battle of Lake Erie, which resulted in the capture of the entire
British fleet.
162 BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC.
NAVAL BATTLE ON LAKE ERIE.
September 10th, 1813, the hostile fleets of England and the
United States on Lake Erie met near the head of the lake, and
a sanguinary battle ensued. The fleet hearing the " red cross"
of England consisted of six vessels, carrying 64 guns, under
command of the veteran Com Barclay ; and the fleet bearing
the " broad stripes and bright stars" of the United States, con-
sisted of nine vessels, carrying 54 guns, under command of the
young and inexperienced, but brave, Com. Oliver H. Perry.
The result of this important conflict was made known to the
world in the following laconic dispatch, wrilteoi at 4 p.m. of
that day :
" Dear General : We have met the enemy, and they are
ours. Two ships, two brigs, one schooner, and one sloop.
" With esteem, etc., 0. H. Perry.
" Gen. William Jones."
Mr. Powell, the artist, who painted the De Soto picture for
Congress, has been appointed by the Ohio Legislature to paint
a representation of Perry's Victory on Lake Erie — the price
not to exceed $5,000. It will be placed in one of the panels of
the rotunda of the new State House in Columbus, the capital
of the State.
OHIO RIVER iND LAKE ERIE CAXALS. 1G3
EAILEOAD KOUTE AEOUND LAKE EEIE.
This important body of water being encompassed by a band
of iron, ■we subjoin the following Table of Distances :
Miles.
Buffalo to Paris, C. W., via Buffalo and Lake Huron
Railroad 84
Paris to Windsor or Detroit, via Great Western Railway. 158
Detroit to Toledo, Ohio, via Detroit and Toledo R.R 68
Toledo to Cleveland, via Cleveland and Toledo R.R. ..... 107
Cleveland to Erie, Pa., via Cleveland and Erie R.R 95
Erie to Buffalo, via Lake Shore Road 88
Total miles 595
The extreme length of Lake Erie is 250 miles, from the
mouth of Niagara River to Maumee Bay ; the circuit of the
lake about 560 miles, being about 100 miles less distance than
has been stated by some writers on the great lakes.
OHIO EIVER AND LAKE EEIE CANALb
The completion of the Miami Canal makes four distinct
channels of communication from the Ohio River through the
State of Ohio to Lake Erie, namely :
1. The Erie Extension Canal, from Beaver, twenty or
thirty miles below Pittsburgh, to Erie, 136 miles. 2. The Cross-
CiU Beaver Canal, which is an extension or branch from
Newcastle, Pa., on the Beaver Canal, to Akron, Ohio, where it
nnites with the Portsmouth and Cleveland Canal — making a
canal route from Beaver to Cleveland of 143 miles. 3. The
Ohio Canal, from Cleveland to Portsmouth, through the center
of the State, 309 miles. 4. The Miami Extension, which is a
union of the Miami Canal with the Wabash and Erie Canal,
through Dayton, terminating at Toledo, at the mouth of the
IVIaumee River on Lake Erie, 247 miles. The vast and increas-
ing business of the Ohio Valley may furnish business for all
these canals. They embrace rich portions of Pennsylvania,
Ohio, and Indiana ; but are not so located as to be free from
competition with one another. At no distant time, they would
unquestionably command a sufScient independent business,
were it not probable that they may be superseded by railways.
The capacity of railways — both for rapid and cheap transporta-
tion— as it is developed by circumstances and the progress of
science, is destined to affect very materially the value and im-
portance of canals.
164 DISCOVERY OF A NEW HARBOR.
OPENmG OF NAVIGATION IN LAKE ERIE.
The following,,table, prepared Iby the Detroit Advertiser, from
back files, shows the time Avhen navigation has opened at this
port for the past seventeen years :
1840. .March 8 Steamer Star arrived from Cleveland.
1841 . . April 18 " Gen. Wayne arrived from Buffalo
1842 . . March 3 . . . . " Gen. Scott cl'd for Buffalo.
1843 . . April 18 " Fairport cl'd for Cleveland
1844 . . March 11.... « Red Jacket cl'd for Fort Gratiot.
1845 . . Jan'y 4 " United States arrived from Buffalo.
1846 . . March 14 " John Owen arrived from Cleveland.
. " United States "
.Prop. Manhattan cl'd for Buffalo.
. Steamer John Owen cl'd for Cleveland.
" Southerner arrived from Buffalo.
. " Hollister '' « Toledo.
. " Arrow cl'd for Toledo.
" Bay City arrived from Sandusky.
,„^^ , ., ^ • " May Queen " " Cleveland.
1855.. April 2.... " Arrow cl'd for Toledo.
1856.. " 15.... " May Queen cl'd for Cleveland.
1857 . . March 24 " Ocean cleared for Cleveland.
1847..
30. .
1848..
22..
1849..
21..
1850..
25..
1851..
19..
1852..
22..
1853 . .
14..
1854..
24..
DISCOVEET OF A NEW HAEBOE IN LAKE HUEON.
We learn from a Michigan paper that Capt. W. Gilmore, of
the brig Sultan, having come into collision with a vessel off the
Middle Island, on the night of October 27th, 1856, was driven
by stress of the accident into Bail du I)erd, on the north side
of Lake Huron, about eighty miles above Goderich. Captain
Gilmore, in a letter to the editor of the Port Bruce Pioneer,
states that there is plenty of water in the harbor for the largest
vessel on the lakes, and a safe anchorage. A pier inside the
harbor is alone wanted to render the accommodations perfect.
The captain expresses the opinion, that a light-house and a pier
would render this bay one of the finest harbors on the lakes.
Since this letter was written, we are informed that a small
town has been planted in that locality.
BUFFALO
Buffalo City, Erie Co., N. Y., possessing commanding ad-
vantages, is distant from Albany 298 miles by railroad, and
about 350 miles by the line of the Erie Canal; in N. lat.
42° 53', W. long. 78° 55' from Greenwich. It is favorably
situated for commerce at the head of Niagara River, the outlet
of Lake Erie, and at the foot of the great chain of Western
lakes, and is the point where the vast trade of these inland
seas is concentrated. The harbor, formed of Buffalo Creek, lies
nearly east and west across the southern part of tne city, and
is separated from the waters of Lake Erie by a peninsula be-
tween the creek and lake. This harbor is a very secure one,
and is of such capacity, that although steamboats, ships, and
other lake craft, and canal boats, to the number, in all, of from
three to four hundred, have sometimes been assembled there for
the transaction of the business of the lakes, yet not one half
part of the water accommodations has ever yet been occupied
by the vast business of the great and growing West. The har-
bor of Buffalo is the most capacious, and really the easiest and
safest of access on our inland waters. Lnprovements are an-
nually made by dredging, by the construction of new piers,
wharves, warehouses, and elevators, which extend its facilities,
and render the discharge and trans-shipment of cargoes more
rapid and convenient ; and in this latter respect is without an
equal.
Buffalo was first settled by the whites in 1801. In 1832 it was
chartered as a city, being now governed by a mayor, recorder,
and board of aldermen. Its population in 1830, according to
the United States Census, was 8,668 ; in 1840, 18,213 ; and in
1850, 42,261. Since the latter period the limits of the city have
been enlarged by taking in the town of Black Rock ; it is now
divided into thirteen wards, and, according to the State Census
of 1855, contained 74,214 inhabitants, being now the third city
166 BUFFALO.
in point of size in the State of New York llie public build-
ings are numerous, and many of them fine specimens of archi-
tecture ; while the private buildings, particularly those for busi-
ness purposes, are of the most durable construction and modern
style. The manufacturing establishments are also numerous,
and conducted on a large scale, producing manufactured articles
for the American and Canadian markets.
The lines of steamers and railroads diverging from Buffalo
tend to make it one of the greatest thoroughfares in the Union.
Steamers and propellers run to Cleveland, Toledo, Detroit,
Mackinac, Saut Ste Marie, Green Bay, Milwaukee, Chicago, etc.
The railroads diverging from Buffalo are the New York Cen-
tral, extending to Albany 298 miles by direct route ; Buffalo
Division of the New York and Erie Railroad ; Lake Shore Rail-
road ; Buffalo, Niagara Falls, and Lewiston Railroad ; and the
Buffalo and Huron Railroad, the latter running through Can-
ada to Goderich on Lake Huron, and connecting with the Great
Western Railway, terminating at Windsor, opposite Detroit.
The principal hotels are the American, Clarendon, Commer-
cial, and Mansion House, on Main Street, and the Wcetern
Hotel, facing the Terrace.
" The climate of Buffalo is, without doubt, of a more even
temperature than any other city in the same parallel of lati-
tude from the Mississippi to the Atlantic coast. Observations
have shown that the thermometer never ranges as low in win-
ter, nor as high in summer, as at points in Massachusetts, the
eastern and central portions of this State, the northern and
southern shores of Lake Erie, in Michigan, Northern Illinois,
and Wisconsin. The winters are not as keen, nor the summers,
cooled by the breezes from the lake, as sultry ; and in a sani-
tary point of view, it is probably the healthiest city in the
world.
" London, usually considered the healthiest of cities, has a
ratio of one death in forty inhabitants The ratio of Buffalo
is one in fifty-six. The favorable situation of the city for
drainage, and for a supply of pure water ; its broad, well-paved
streets, lined with shrubbery and shade-trees ; its comparatively
mild winters ; its cool summers ; its pleasant drives and pictur-
esque suburbs, and its proximity to the ' Falls,' combine to
render it one of the most desirable residences on the continent."
BUFFALO.
167
In regard to the commerce of the " Fai West," mucli of which
centers in Buffalo, a writer justly remarks :
" Few men have duly estimated the value of our 1,500 miles
of uninterrupted lake navigation. A coast of upward of 3 000
miles connecting with numerous canals and railroads, whose
ao-o-reo-ate length, when they shall be completed, will greatly
elceed the leno-th of all our inland seas and coasts, must create
an amount of°commerce far greater than has ever yet been
witnessed on the waters of che Mediterranean. The completion
of the ship canal at the Saut Ste Marie alone opens an inland
sea of vast and growing importance."
TRADE AND COMMERCE OF BUFFALO— 1856.
IMPORTS BY LAKE.
The annual tables of the Lake Trade during the year, with
some additional comparative statements showing the course ot
trade, the increase and decrease in the general average value
of most articles, and other matters of interest concerning this
trade during the year 1856, are copied from tne Buffalo Couner.
The value of Imports by Lake for the past six years is as follows :
1851 . .$31,889,951 1854 $45,030,931
itsi 34 943 855 1855 50,346,819
1853: '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.. 36,881,230 1856 45,684,079
This table exhibits a steady increase in the yearly valuation
of the Lake Imports until last year, when there is a decrease as
compared with 1855 of $4,662,740. This large decrease has
been occasioned, not by a falling off in the receipts of the more
valuable articles of import, but by the dechne m the average
value of nearly every description of produce.
The followino- table will show the different States through
who^e ports have been shipped the following produce received
at this port. Through Cleveland, Sandusky, Toledo, and a few
smaller ports, we have received the products of Ohio, Indiana,
Southern Illinois, and Kentucky, and through Chicago, the pro-
ducts of Illinois, Iowa, Indiana, and Missouri.
Flour. Wheat. Com. Oats.
Ohio ports... 641.155 826,016 1J17,130 1.094,015
Michi-an.... 203,125 495,289 164,49. 42,314
niinofs .122472 5,127,947 7,922,461 548,326
^Snsin:... 115,427 1,707,798 52,702 39,146
Canada 60,906 386,067
Total . . . 1,143,085 8,543,117 9,846,790 1,723,801
168 BUFFALO.
The folio-wing Table will show the entrances and clearances
of foreign and American Tessels, together ■with their tonnage and
crews during the year 1856, and the total for the past 7 years :
Arrived. No. Tons. Crews.
American vessels from foreign
ports ; 112 17,745 598
Foreign do., do 718 71,039 5,314
Total 830 88,784 5,912
Cleared.
Amer. vessels to foreign ports 181 30,607 1,193
Foreign do., do 632 62,833 5,580
i-i-O
Total 813 93,440 6,77
Coasting trade.
Inward 3,292 1,441,663 49,556
Outwartl 3,193 1,424,702 49,210
Total 6,485 2,866,305 98,766
Grand Total for 1856 8,128 3,048,589 111.451
" "1855 9.231 3,360,233 111,515
" " 1854 8,972 3,995,284 120.838
" " 1853 8,298 3,252,978 128,112
" " 1852 9,441 3,092,247 127,491
" " 1851 9,050 3,087,533 120,542
" « 1850 8,444 2,743,700 125,562
The amount of new tonnage now on the stocks both at this
and other Western ports, and destined for the trade of this city
and the West, will, we believe, increase the tonnage entering
and departing from this district very materially during the
coming season (1857), and that it must exceed any former year.
Losses on the Lakes. — If the losses on the great Lakes
during the past year are any indication of the amount of com-
merce on our inland seas, it must have grown enormously since
1848. In that year the losses amounted to but a little over
8400,000; in 1853 they had increased to nearly a million; in
1854 they were a little over two millions; in 1855 over two and
a half millions ; but the present year, 1856, they have reached
the fearful sum of over three millions. But, large as tliis
amount is, it does not seem so great when it is viewed in con-
nection with the statement that the commerce of the Lakes
passing the St. Clair Flats amounted in 1856 to more than three
hundred millions of dollars, while the coasting trade not in-
cluded in that estimate amounts to at least a hundred millions
more. This looks very much like the course of empire taking
a westerly direction.
BUFFALO. 169
RECAPITULATION OF LOSSES ON THE LAKES — 1856.
Losses in May, steam and sail $142,600
June, " " 118,550
July, '' " 266,130
August, " " 67,750
September," " 342,860
October, « « 882,039
November, " " 1,059,395
December, " " 159,550
Total loss, steam and sail, in 1856 S3, 038, 8 < 4
" in 1855 2,797,839
Increased loss 241,035
Total loss of life in 1856 407
" in 1855 118
Increase 289
Loss on steam huUs $732,800
Loss on cargoes by steam 645,300
Total loss by steam in 1856 1,378,100
« in 1855 1,692,700
Decrease in 1856 $314,600
Loss on sail huUs 863.675
Loss on cargoes by sail 797,099
Total loss by sail in 1856 1,660,714
" « in 1855 1,105,139
Increase in 1856 $555,63o
Synopsis of the Marine Register of the Board of Lake Un-
derwriters of vessels in commission on tlie lakes in the fall of
1856.
Number.
Steamers 107
Propellers 135
Barques 56
Brigs 108
Schooners 850
Total 1,256
Tonnage.
Cash Value.
62,863
$3,320,400
54.675
2,741,200
21,773
673,800
27,045
701,850
173,380
5,487,100
339,736
$12,944,350
D. P. DOBBINS, Sec'y
Board of Lake Underwriter:
170 BUFFALO.
EXPORTS FROM UP-LAKE PORTS TO BUFFALO.
STATEMENT, showing the several amounts of Flour and Grain eat'
ported l>y Lake frorro various ports to Buffalo, during the season of
1856:
P'onr, Wheat, Coin, Oafs. Kvo,
bb'.s. bush. bush. bush. busli.
Ashtabula 2,500
AUensburgh 1,200
Bavfield. C. W 50,115
Black River 1,600
Brantford, C. W 16,231 32,008
Port Burwell, C. W 18,161
Caledonia, G. W 2 726
Oavuira 7,628 41,127
Cleveland 245,512 72,577 117,239 172,087
Chicaiio 119,772 5,100,293 7,831,615 537,936
Conneaut l,2i)0
Detroit 189,309 333,398 64,997 43,411
Port Dover, C. W 13,036 89.718
DunnvUle, C. W 2,223 19,502
Erie 6,995
Fremont 9,675 84,292 85,000
FortErie.C.W 7,077
Grand Haven 8,955 37,891
Green Bav 1,864 15')
Goderich,' C. W 600 26,164
Huron 327 20,889 281,423 252,916
Indiana 1,671
Kenosha 6o5 106,843
Maitland, C. W 3,7S0
Milwaukee 106,366 1,440.337 34,000 43,241
Michigan City 26,829 31,269
Milan 40 6,700 38,792
Monroe 995 73.909
Morpeth,C.W 5,000
Port Washington 1,463 3,210
Perrvsburg 2,875
Racine 1,622 53,768
Port Robinson, C. W 4,636
Port Rowan. C. W 367 465
Ryer9e,C. W 2,977 5,400
Saginaw 766
Sandusky 178,664 69,218 210,587 421,147
Sheboygan 893 37.0S2
Port Stanley, C. W 2,295 99,716
Toledo 208,417 621,164 937,579 81,157
Venice 100 8,000 20,000
Yermilion 2,810 20,033 30,650
Waukegan 124 51,870 138
York..- 2,624 1,997
Totals 1,126,048 8,465,671 9,632,477 1,733,382 245,810
TRIP FROM BUFFALO TO MACKIXAC, CHICAGO, ETC.
This is a deeply interesting excursion, calculated to give
the traveler a just conception of the great inland sias of North
America, inasmuch as the route traverses Lakes Erie, St. Clair,
Huron, and Michigan, a total distance of more than a thousand
miles.
If to this is added a trip to the Falls of St. Mary (Saut de
Ste Marie), in the outlet of Lake Superior, and connecting it
•with Lake Huron— to the Manitoulm Islands in the northern
quarter of Lake Huron, their very name implying scenery fitted
to excite sublime emotions, and suggesting the strong sentiment
of religious awe which characterized the primitive red man — if
these he added to the tour, no excursion of equal extent can be
found that presents a greater variety of picturesque and mag-
nificent scenery. Besides the above grand excursion, Lake Su-
perior alone afi"ords ample inducements for the tourist to extend
his visit to this greatest of all the inland seas of America.
As this excursion begins on Lake Erie, we begin our guid-
ance with a brief description of thai noble and most useful
body of water.
Lake Erie, washing the shores of four of these United
States— New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Michigan— and
spreading between them and a large segment of the British
province of Canada AVest, with the line of division as settled
by treaty, running through the middle of the lake, is 250 miles
long by 40 to 60 miles wide. Its surface, as ascertained by the
engineers of the Erie Canal, is 565 feet above the Hudson River
at Albany, and 330 feet above Lake Ontario. The greatest
depth of the lake yet observed is 204 feet. This is compara-
tively shallow ; and the relative depths of the greipseries of
lakes may be illustrated by saying, that the surplus waters
172 BUFFALO TO MACKINAC, CHICAGO, ETC.
poured from the vast basins of Superior, Huron, and Michigan
flow acro6S the plate of Erie into the deep bowl of Ontario.
Lake Erie is reputed to be the only one of the series ia
■which any current is perceptible. The fact, if it is one, is
usually ascribed to its shallowness ; but the vast volume of its
outlet — the Niagara River — with its strong current, is a much
more favorable cause than the small depth of its water, which
may be far more appropriately adduced as the reason why the
navigation is obstructed by ice much more than either of the
other great lakes. The New York shore of Lake Erie extends
about 60 miles, in the course of which the lake receives a num-
ber of streams, the most considerable of which are the Buffalo
and Cattaraugus creeks ; and presents several harbors, the
most important of which at present are Buffalo Creek and
Dunkirk.
As connected with trade and navigation, this lake is far the
most important of all the great chain, not only because it is
bordered by older settlements than any of them, except Ontario,
but still more because, from its position, it concentrates the
trade of the vast West.
When we consider the extent, not only of this lake, but of
Huron, 260 miles long ; of Michigan, 330 miles long ; of Su-
perior, 420 miles long, the largest body of fresh water on the
globe, we may quote with emphasis the words of an English
writer : '' How little are they aware, in Europe, of the extent of
commerce upon these inland seas, whose coasts are now lined
with flourishing towns and cities; whose waters are plowed
with magnificent steamers, and hundreds of vessels crowded
with merchandise ! Even the Americans themselves are not
fully aware of the rising importance of these lakes, as connected
with the West."
THE PmST YESSEL WHICH MYIGATED THE
UPPEPt LAKES. ^
The following accotmt is translated from an old French
work, printed in 1688, entitled, " An Account of the Discovery
of a very great Country situated in Ainerica" by Father
Hennepin. It will be read with interest.
" It now became necessary for La Salle, in furtherance of his
object, to construct a vessel above the Falls of Niagara, suf-
ficiently large to transport the men and goods necessary to
carry on a profitable trade with the savages residing on the
western lakes. On the 22d of January, 1679, they went six
miles above the falls to the mouth of a small creek, and there
built a dock convenient for the construction of their vessel.*
" On the 26th of January, the keel and other pieces being
ready. La Salle requested Father Hennepin to drive the first
bolt," but the modesty of the good father's profession prevented.
" During the rigorous winter. La Salle determined to return
to Fort Frontenac ;t and leaving the dock in charge of an
Italian named Chevalier Tuti, he started, accompanied by
Father Hennepin as far as Lake Ontario ; from thence he trav-
ersed the dreary forests to Frontenac on foot, with only two
companions and a dog, which drew his baggage on a sled, sub-
sisting on nothing but parched corn, and even that failed him
two days' journey from the fort. In the mean time the^build^
ing of the vessel went on under the suspicious eyes of the neigh-
boring savages, although the most part of them had gone to war
beyond Lake Erie. One of them, feigning intoxication, at-
tempted the life of the blacksmith, who defended himself suc-
cessfully with a red-hot bar of iron. The timely warning of a
friendly squaw averted the burning of their vessel on the stocks,
which was designed by the savages. The workmen were almost
disheartened by frequent alarms, and would have abandonedl
the work had they not been cheered by the good father, who
* There can be but little doubt that the place they s lected for building
their bark was the mouth of the Cayuga Credc,^^put -ix miles above the
falls. Governor Cass says " the vessel waMi|||ked at Erie ;" School-
craft, in his journal, says, "near Buffalo;" an^i^Ptiistorian Bancroft lo-
cates the site at the mouth of Tonawanda Creek. Hennepin says the
mouth of the creek was two leagues above the great falls ; the mouth of
the Tonawanda is more than twice that distance, and the Cayuga is tha
only stream that answers to the description.
t Now Kingston, Canada.
^/' 15* ai^A kfm
174 UPPER LAKES
represented tne great advantage their perseverance "n'ould affoid,
and liow much their success would redound to the glory of God.
These and other inducements accelerated the 'work, and the
vessel was soon ready to be launched, though not entirely
finished. Chanting Te Denm, and firing three guns, they com-
mitted her to the river amid cries of joy, and swung their ham-
mocks in security from the wild beasts, and still more dreaded
Indians.
"' When the Senecas returned from their expedition, they
were greatly astonished at the floating fort, ' which struck
terror among all the savages who lived on the great lakes and
rivers within fifteen hundred miles.' Hennepin ascended the
river in a bai'k canoe with one of his companions as far as Lake
Erie. They twice pulled the canoe up the rapids, and sounded
the lake for the purpose of ascertaining the depth. He re-
ported that with a favorable north or northwest wind the vessel
could ascend to the lake, and then sail without difficulty over
its whole extent. Soon after the vessel was launched in the cur-
rent of V^iagara, about four and a half miles from the lake.
Ilenucpm left it for Fort Frontenac, and retirrning with La
Salle and two other fathers, Gabriel and Zenobe Mambre,
anchored in the Niagara the oOth July, 1G79. On the 4th of
August they reached the dock where the ship was built, which
he calls distant eighteen miles from Lake Ontario, and pro-
c jeded from thence in a bark canoe to their vessel, which they
found at anchor three miles from the ' beautiful Lake Erie.'
" The vessel was of 60 tons burden, completely rigged, and
found with all the necessaries, arms, provisions, and merchan-
ise ; it had seven small pieces of cannon on board, two of which
ere of brass. There was a griffin flyingat the jib-boom, and
ea^e above. There were also the ordinary ornaments and
other fixtures which usually grace a ship of war. "
' They endeavored many times to ascend the current of the
iagara into Lake Erie without success, the wind not being
strong enough. While they were thus detained, La Salle em-
ployed a few of his men in clearing some land on the Canadian
-liure, opposite the vessel, and in sowing some vegetable seeds
f »r the benefit of those who might inhabit the place.
" At length the wind being favorable, they lightened the
"\ ssel by sending most of the crew on shore, and with the aid
of their sails an'l en or a dozen men at the tow-lines, ascended
the current into Late^^rte. Thus on the 7th of August, 1679,
the first vessel ^^K^fron the untried waters of Lake Erie.
They steered southwest, after having chanted their never-fail-
ing Te Dtum, and discharged their artillery in the presence
of a vast niiraber of Seneca warriors. It had been reported to
<mr voyagers that Lake Erie was full of breakers and sand-
UPPER LAKES. 175
B, which rtc iered a safe navigation impossible ; they
therefore kept the lead going, sounding from time to time, to
avoid danger.
" After sailing, without difficulty, through Lake Erie, they
arrived on the 11th of August at the mouth of the Detroit
River, sailing up which they arrived at St. Clair, to which they
gave the name it bears. After being detained several days by
contrary winds at the bottom of the St. Clair River, they at
length succeeded in entering Lake Huron on the 23d of Aug-ust,
chanting Te Deum through gratitude for a safe navigation
thus far. Passing along the eastern shore of the lake, they
sailed with a fresh and favorable wind until evening, when the
wind suddenly veered, driving them across Saginaw Bay
(S-acinaw). The storm raged until the 24th, and was succeeded
by a calm, which continued until next day noon (25th), when
they pursued their course until midnight. As they doubled a
point which advanced into the lake, they were suddenly struck
by a furious wind, which forced them to rim behind the cape
for safety. On the 26th, the violence of the storm compelled
them to send down their topmasts and yards, and to stand in,
for they could find neither anchorage nor shelter. ^
"It was then the stout heart of La Salle failed himftlie
whole crew fell upon their knees to say their prayers and pre-
pare for death, except the pilot, whom they could not coiifi|[ to
follow their example, and who, on- the contrary, 'did nOTning
all that time but curse and swear against M. La Salle, who had
brought him thither to make him perish in a nasty lake, and
lose the glory he had acquired by his long and happy naviga-
tion on the ocean.' On the 27th, favored with less adverse
winds, they arrived during the night at iNIichilimackinac,
anchored in the bay, where they report six fathoms ofw£
and a clay bottom. This bay they state is protected on th^
southwest, west, and northwest, but open to the south. ^ "*
savages were struck dumb with astonishment at the size of thi
vessel and the noise of their guns.
" Here they regaled themselves on the delicious trout, wl
they described as being from 50 to 50 pounds in weight, an(
affording the savages their -principal subsistence. On the'
of September, 1679, they left Mackinac, entered Lake MiclH^
(Illinois), and sailed 40 leagues to an island at the mouth of
the Bay of Puara (Giaen Bay). From t^ place La Salle de-
tertiined to send baaPthe ship laden -yWi furs to Niagara.
The pilot and five men embarked in herflnid on the lOth^she
fired a gun and set sail (gi her return with a fav.orable -wjjid.
Nothing; more was heard frofii her, and she undmiWedly foun-
dered in Lake Huron, with all on board. Hei^^fr^WkS ri»h,
and valued at 60, Qi
%
176 NAVIGATIOX OF THE LAKKS
" Thus ended the first voyage of the first ship that sailed <yVer
the Western Lakes. "What a contrast is presented between the
silent waves and unbroken forests which Avitnessed the course
of that adventurous bark, and the busy hum of commerce which
now rises from the fertile bottoms, and the thousand ships and
smoking palaces which now furrovr the surface of those inland
seas !
NAVIGATION OF THE LAKES.
Ft'om the Buffalo Commereial Advertiser — 1846.
" I HAVE noticed several communications in your paper re-
cently, in relation to the early Navigation of the Lnkes by
American vessels, and as you solicit further communications on
the subject, I give you such facts as I am acquainted with, and
will add, that in regard to many of them I have vouchers to
establish their correctness.
" I first visited Lake Erie and the Niagara River in August,
1795 ; and from an early period, until within the last twenty
l^ears, have been more or less interested in the navigation of
the lakes.
" It is well known that the military posts of Oswego, Niagara,
Detroli, and Mackinac were not surrendered to the United States
untit the fore part of the ye^r 1796, under Jay's treaty. Boats
had not been permitted to pass Oswego into Lake Ontario, and
as no settlements of importance had been made previous to that
time on the American shores of the lakes (excepting the old
French settlements in the neighborhood of these ports, and they
were under the jurisdiction and influence of the British govern-
ment),-no vessels were required, and, of course, none had been
bmlt.
*' In August, 1795, 1 left Canandaigua on a journey to Presque
l^le — now Erie, Pennsylvania. The country west of Genesee
■'"Ifeiver, excepting a tract twelve miles in width extending from
opposite Avon along the river to its mouth, had not then been
purchased of the Indians, and no roads opened. We, of course,
followed the Indian trail to BufifalQ.
" At that time the only residents at that place, as far as I
r.culloct, were William Johnson, the British Indian interpreter,
whose house stood on the site of the pr^nt Mansion House, an
Indian trader namecl^'innee, a negro i^fced Joe, also a trader,
1)0 th of whom residted on the flat^JMBp the mouth of Little
Buffalo, and a Dutchman by the^|^re of Middough, with a
family, who resided some forty or*firty rods east of Johnson's.
A lari^pM^fl^'f tlie ground no^ occupied by your beautiful
city wdsiJi® a^knbroken wilderness
NAVIGATION OF THE LAKES. 177
" At that time I am not aware that a single vessel was owned
on the United States side of the lakes, and remember that Ca.pt.
Lee, who would have known, informed me that there were none
" In 1796 I was employed by the Connecticut Land Company
to survey the Western Reserve, and I prepared to go on early
in the season, with several other surveyors, and a party of men
to perform the work. At Schenectady we fitted out three bat-
teaux, manned by four hands each, with the necessary articles
for the expedition, such as tents, blankets, cooking utensils,
groceries, etc., with a quantity of dry goods, designed as pres-
ents to the Ladians.
" These boats were put under the care of Mr. Joshua Stow,
uncle of Judge Stow, of Buffalo. Understanding that the mil-
itary posts at Oswego and Niagara were to be given up to the
United States early this spring, under a stipulation in Jay's
treaty, Mr. Stow took the route by Oswego and Niagara to
Queenston. On his arrival at Oswego, that port had not been
surrendered, and the boats were not permitted to pass. Deter-
mined not to be delayed, Mr. Stow took the boats a mile or two
up the river, and the night following ran them past the fort
into the lake and pursued his voyage, and before arriving at
Niag ra that post had passed into the possession of our troops.
He landed at Queenston, had his boats and loading taken to
Chippewa, where he took in provisions to complete his cargoes,
which had been purchased at Canandaigua, and forwarded by
the way of Irondequoit and the lake in open boats, and arrived
a day or two before.
" At Buffalo he was met by others of the party, who had
come on by land, among these. Gen. Moses Cleveland, one of
the directors of the Connecticut Land Company (from whom
the city of Cleveland took its name), who, by way of securing
the good- will of the Indians to the expedition, held a council
and distributed presents among them. The expedition went on
from here, a part by the boats, and a part by land with pack-
horses, and arrived at the mouth of Conneaut Creek on the 4th
of July, 1796, and celebrated the day. The party then con-
sisted of fifty -two persons.
At this time, as we ascertained, there was not a white person
residing on the Reserve, excepting a French family just within
the mouth of Sandusky Bay.
" One of our boats was employed during the season in bring-
ing up supplies of provisions from Chippewa, and in October,
on her up trip, was wrecked in a gale off the mouth of Chati-
tauque Creek, and Tinker, the master, drowned.
" No American vessels had yet been built, and some of the
baggage and stores for the troops at Detroit had Bfeen trans-
ported from Western Pennsylvania by the yontiwctor, ^i^en.
178 NAVIGATION OF THfc ,AKES.
O'Hara, up the valley of the Big Beavei , and through the "wil-
derness to Detroit, ou pack-horses.
" Between the years of 1796 and 1800 (I am unable to par-
ticularize the year), the schooner Gen. Tracy was built at De-
troit, and in iVugust, 1808, purchased by Porter, Barton & Co.
and thoroughly repaired, and on her second or third trip was
wrecked on the Fort Erie reef in 1809.
" The brig Adams, a government vessel, was built about the
same time as the Gen. Tracy, and was sailed by Capt. Brevoort
for a number of years. She was built at Detroit.
" A small vessel called the Good Intent was built at Presque
Isle by Capt. Wm. Lee, and I believe was partly, and perhaps
wholly, ov.-ned by Rufus S. Reed. She, I think, was built about
1800, and wrecked near Point Abino in 1805.
" In 1802 the schooner Gen. Wilkinson, of 70 tons, was built at
Detroit, and in 1811 thoroughly repaired, and her name changed
to Amelia. She was sold to the United States during the war.
" In the winter of 1802 and '3 the sloop Contractor, of 64
tons, was built at Black Rock by the company having the gov-
ernment contract for the supply of the military posts, under
the superintendence of Captain William Lee, by whom she was
sailed until 1809, and afterward by Capt. James Beard. In
1803 or '•! a small sloop called the Niagara, of 30 tons, was
bmlt at Cayuga Creek, on the Niagara River, by the U. S.
government, but not put in commission. She was purchased
by Porter, Barton «& Co. in 1806, and her name changed to the
Nanc}', and sailed by Captain Richard ONeil.
" In 1806 the schooner Mary, of 105 tons, was built at Erie
by Thomas Wilson, and purchased the one half by James Rough
and George Bueshler, and the other half by Porter, Barton &
Co. in 1808, and sailed by Captain Rough until the war, and
then sold to the United States.
" In 1808 Porter, Barton & Co. purchased the schooner Ran-
ger of Georo-e Wilber, then several years old— she was repaired
•and sailed oy Capt. Hathaway. In 1810 the sloop Erie was
built at Black Rock by Porter, Barton & Co., and sold to the
United States in time of the war. The schooner Salina, sailed
by Capt. Dobbins, and the schooner Eleanor, and probably
O' iiers that I do not recolh^ct, were built and sailed before the
V. ;u% but I am unable to .say where and when they were built,
or by whom owned.
•' On Lake Ontario I find that previous to 1809, and during
that year, the following vc-^sels had been built, and were on-
gaged in the commerce of the lake : Schooner Pair American,
•wned by Matthew M'Nair, of Oswego. Theophilus Pease, mas-
ter ; also^chooners Lark, Island Packet, Eagle, Mary, Farmer,
Two Brotlftrs, Experimenc, >,nd Dcniocrat
NAVIGATIO^: OF THE LAKES. 179
" Some time previous to the "war the United States bng Oneida
was built, and commanded by Captain AVoolsey.
" In 1809 the schooner Ontario, of 70 tons, was built by Porter,
Barton & Co. at Lewiston, and sold to the United States during
the war.
" In 1809 the schooner Cambria was built on an island at the
lower end of Lake Ontario, and brought in an unfinished state
to Lewiston, where she was purchased and fitted out by Porter,
Barton & Co., and her name changed to Niagara.
" In addition to the foregoing vessels, the following were in
commission in 1810 : Schooner Diana, sloop Marion, schooners
Charles and Ann, Gold Hunter, and Genesee Packet.
" A number of vessels on both lakes, owned and armed dur-
ing the war by the United States, were afterward sold and em-
ployed in the commerce of the lakes.
" The foregoing is a very imperfect history of the American
vessels owned and employed on the lakes previous to the war,
and it is not probable that any individual can furnish a com-
plete one. As far as it goes, I believe it to be tolerably correct.
" Aug's Porter."
NoiK. — In 1818 the first steamboat, " Walk-in-the-Water,"
was built at Black Ptock ; at which time there were, in aU,
about thirty sail of vessels on the Upper Lakes.
In 1822 the Superior (1st.) was built ; in 1824 the Chippewa
was built; and in 1825 three more were added; from this
period to 1830 four more steamers were added to the list.
Since 1830 about two hundred steamers have been built on
Lake Erie and the Upper Lakes, a list of which is hereafter
added.
MAGMTUDE OF THE LAKES.
Lake Superior, at a height of 600 feet aboTe the sea, is 42u
miles long, 160 miles broad, and 1,000 feet deep. It discharges
its waters by the strait, or river St. Mary, 50 miles long, into
Lake Huron, which lies 27 feet below.
Lake Michigaji, 676 feet above the sea, is 320 miles long, 82
miles broad, and 900 feet deep. It discharges its surplus
waters through the Strait of Mackinac, 50 miles in length, into
Lake Huron, nearly on a level.
Grten Bay, at about th« same elevation as Lake Michigan,
is 100 miles long, 20 miles broad, and 60 feet deep.
Lake Huron, at a height of 574 feet above the sea, is 260
miles long, 1 10 miles broad, and 900 feet deep.
Georgian Bay, lying northeast of Lake Huron and of the
same altitude, is 130 miles long and 55 miles broad. All the
above bodies of water, into which are discharged a great number
of streams, find an outlet by the river and Lake St. Clair, and
Detroit River or Strait, in all about 90 miles long, with a
fall of 14 feet into
Lake Erie, the fourth great lake of this immense chain.
This latter lake again, at an elevation above the sea of 564 feet,
250 miles long, 60 miles broad, and 204 feet at its greatest
depth, but, on an average, considerably less than 100 feet deep,
discharges its surplus waters by the Niagara River and Falls
into Lake Ontario, 330 feet below ; 51 feet of this descent being
in the rapids immediately above the Falls, 160 feet at the Falls
themselves, and the rest chiefly in the rapids between the Falls
and the mouth of the river, 35 miles below Lake Erie.
Lake Ontario, the fifth and last of the Great Lakes of Amer-
ica, is elevated 234 feet above tide- water at Three Rivers on the
St. Lawrence; it is 180 miles long, 60 miles broad, 600 feet
deep. Thus basin succeeds basin, like the locks of a great
\
MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES. 181
cana ■ the "whole length of waters from Lake Superior to the
Gulf »f St. Lawrence being rendered navigable for vessels of a
large class by means of the VYelland and other canals— thus
enabling a loaded vessel to ascend or descend 600 feet above
the level of the ocean, or tide-water. Of these lakes. Lake Su-
perior has by far the largest area, being nearly equal in super-
ficial extent to Lakes Huron and Michigan together, and Lake
Ontario has the least, having a surface only about one fifth of
that of Lake Superior, and being somewhat less in area than
Lake Erie, although not much less, if any, in the circuit of it^
shores. Lake Ontario is the safest body of water for naviga-
tion, and Lake Erie the most dangerous. The ascertained tern
perature in the midde of Lake Erie, August, 1845, was temper
ature of air 76° Fahrenheit, at noon — water at surface 73° — at
bottom 53°. The lakes of greatest interest to the tourist or
scientific traveler are Ontario, Huron, together with Georgian
Bay and North Channel, and Lake Superior. The many pic-
turesque islands and headlands, together with the pure waters
of the Upper Lakes, form a most lovely contrast during the
summer and autumn months.
The altitude of the land which forms the water-shed of the
Upper Lakes does not exceed from 600 to 2,500 feet above the
level of the ocean, while the altitude of the land which forms
the water-shed of Lake Champlain and the lower tributaries
of the St. Lawrence River rises from 4,000 to 5,000 above the
level of the sea or tide-water, in the States of Vermont and
New York.
The divide which separates the waters of the Gulf of Mexico,
from those flowing northeast into the St. Lawrence, do not in
some places exceed ten or twenty feet above the level of Lakes
Michigan and Superior; in fact, it is said that Lake Michigan,
when under the influence of high water and a strong northerly
wind, discharges some of its surplus waters into the Illinois
PtivcF, and thence into the Mississippi and Gulf of Mexico — so
low is the divide at its southern terminus.
16
182
MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES.
COAST LINE OF THE GEEAT LAKES AND SH0EE3 OF THE
ST. LAWEENGE EIVEE, ETG.
AMERICAN SIDE.
States, etc. Coast Line.
Minnesota^yL. Superior , 150 ms.
Wisconsin,
Michigan,
120
430
" St. Mary's River 60 "
" Huron and Strait 100 "
" L. Michigan, 60 "
Wisconsin, " ... 200 "
Illinois, " ... 60 "
Indiana,
40
Michigan, " ... 300 "
" Strait of Mackinac 50 "
L. Huron, 260 "
" St. Clair River. . . 38 "
" St. Clair Lake ... 30 "
" Detroit River ... 27 "
Michigan, Erie, 30 "
Ohio, " ... 180 "
Pennsylvania, " ... 40 "
New York, " ... 70 "
" Niagara River. . . 35 "
l^omYov^, L. Ontario, 180 "
'* St. Lawrence R. 100 "
Lower Canada, "... 666 "
Total miles . . . 3,206
Boundaries.
Pigeon River to mouth St. Louis
River.
St. Louis River to mouth Mon-
treal River.
Montreal River to mouth St.
Mary's River.
Saut Ste Marie to Pt. de Tour.
Pt. de Tour to Pt. Seuil Choix.
Pt. Seuil Choix to Green, Bay.
Green Bay to 111. State line
Illinois State line to Indiana
State line.
Indiana State line to Michigan
State line.
State line to Strait of Mackinac.
Fox Point to Lake Huron.
Strait of Mackinac to mouth
St. Clair River.
Fort Gratiot to Lake St. Clair
West shore.
Lake St. Clair to Lake Erie.
Detroit River to Maumee Bay.
Maumee Bay to Penn. State
line.
State line to N. York State line.
State line to mouth Niagara
River.
Lake Erie to Lake Ontario.
Mouth Niagara River to St.
Lawrence River.
Lake Ontario to 45th degree
N. lat.
St. Regis to Gulf of St. Law
rence.
COAST LINE CANADIAN SIDE.
Lake Superior 450 ms.
St. Mary's River 60 "
Pigeon River to St. Mary's R.
Saut Ste INIarie to foot St
Joseph Island.
MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES. 183
L. Huron, (»/V. Chan.) 145 ms. St. Joseph Islana to Georgian
Bay.
" (^Georgian Bay) 230 " Shebawanahning to Colling-
wood and Cabot's Head.
Lake Huron, {proper) 200 " Cabot's Head to mouth St.
Clair River.
St. Clair River 38 " Port Sarnia to Lake St. Clair.
St. Clair Lake 30 " East shore
Detroit River 27 " Lake St. Clair to Lake Erie.
Lake Erie 250" Mouth d Detroit River to
Niagara River.
Niagara River 35 " Lake Erie to Lake Ontario.
Lake Ontario 230 " Mouth Niagara River to Ham-
ilton and foot of Lake.
St. Lawrence River .. . 766 " Lake Ontario to Gulf of St.
Lawrence.
Total miles 2,451
Grand Total, Lake and River Coast, 5,657 miles.
TEIBUTAEIES OF THE ST. LA WEEN CE EIYEE.
UxLiKE the tributaries of the Mississippi, the streams falling
into the Great Lo.kes or the St. Lawrence River are mostly rapid,
and navigable only for a short distance from their mouths
The following are the principal rivers that are navigable for
any considerable length :
AMERICAN SIDE. MileS.
St. Louis River, Min Superior to Fond du Lac. 20
Fox, or Neenah, Wis Green Bay to L. Winnebago 36
St. Joseph, Mich St, Joseph to Niles .26
Grand River, " Grand Haven to Gd. Rapids 4 '
Muskegon, " Muskegon to Newaygo .... 40
Saginaw, " Saginaw Bay to Upper Sag. 28
Maumee, Ohio Maumee Bay to Perrysbh. J 8
Genesee, N. Y Charlotte to Rochester .... 6
CANADIANS' SIDE. Miles.
Thames.. Lake St. Clivir to Chatham 24
Ottawa La Chine to Carillon 40
" {By means of lod;s to Ot-
tawa City) 70
Richelieu or Sorel Sorel to Lake Champlain
{by means of locks) . . 75
Saguenay Tadusac to Chicoutimi .... 70
(thence to Lake St. John, 50 m. )
184 MAGNITUDE OF THii LIKES.
ST. LAWRENCE EIVER AND LAKE NAVIGATION, FROM
FOND DU LAC, LAKE SUPERIOR, TO ANTICOSTL
I • CFS RivvR^ VTC Length in Greatest Av. Depth El. ahovf
i..^.>>,s,. it.vtKs, ETC. jDiles. breadtii. br.aflUi. in feet. sen.
Superior 420 160 80 1,000 GOO
St. Mary's River 50 4 1
Michigan , 330 82 58 900 576
Green Bay 100 25 18 100, 576
Strait of Mackinac 30 20 10 40 to 200
Huron 260 110 70 900 574
North Channel 160 20 10 200 574
Georgian Bay 140 55 40 500 574
St. Clair River 38 1
St. Clair Lake* 20 25 15 8 to 20 568
Detroit River 27 3 1
Lake Erie 250 60 38 204 56^5
Niagara River 35 3 1
Lake Ontario 180 58 40 600 235
St. Lawrence River 766 60 2
Lake St. Francis 3 142
Lake St. Louis, ^ • • •
Mouth Ottawa River, } ... 5 58
Elevation at Montreal 13
Tide-water at Three Rivers. 0
Total miles 2,806
* The Sf. Clair Flats, whicli have to be passed by all large steamers
and sail vessels running from Lake Erie to tne Upper Lakes, now affords
only eight or ten feet of water, the channel being very narrow and
intricate. An appropriation, however, has recently been made by the
government of the United States for improving the channel through tlie
fet. Clair Flats, which, no doubt, will effectually remove the obstruction to
navigation.
Note. — Lake Baikal, the most extensive body of fresh water on the
Eastern Continent, situated in Southern Siberia, between lat. 51° and 55°
north, is about 370 miles in length, 45 miles average width, and about
900 miles in circuit ; being somewhat larger than Lake Erie in area.
Its depth in some places is very great, being in part surrounded by high
mountains. The Yenisei, its outlet, flows north into the Arctic Ocean
LIST OF STEAMERS BUILT ON LAKE ERIE, ETC.,
SINCE THEIR FIRST INTRODUCTION IN 181B.
1818. .'Wa!k-in-the-Water. 342. .Black Eock, X. Y.— wrecke<l Nov., 1321.
1S22.. Superior (1st! 800. .Buflfalo, N. Y.— changed to a ship.
1324 . . Chippewa 100 . . BufiFalo, X. Y.— broken up.
1325. .Henry Clay 348. .Lake Michigan— broken up.
" . . Pioneer 230 . . Black Rook, N. Y.— broken up.
" . . Niagara (1st) ISO .. Black Eock, N. Y.— burnt in 1342.
1^26. .William Penn 275. .Erie, Penn. — broken up.
" ..Enterprise 250.. Cleveland, O.- broken up.
1329. .Wm. Peacock 120. .Barcelona, N. Y. - exploded boiler 1:?:vk
" . .Newburyport 75. .Erie, Penn. — broken up.
1830 . . Sheldon Thompson. 242 . . Huron, Mich.— broken up.
" ..Ohio(lst) 187.. Sanduskv, O.— sunk 1337.
" . .Adelaide (British). . 230 . . Chippewa, C. W.— wrecked 1340.
1831.. Gratiot 63. .Charleston— broken up.
1832 . . Pennsylvania 395 . . Erie, Penn. — broken up.
" ..Gen. Brady 100.. Detroit, Mich.— broken up.
" . . Uncle Sam 280 . . Grosse Isle, Mich. — broken up.
" . . Perseverance 50 . . Erie, Penn.— broken up.
1833 . . "Washington (1st) ... 600 . . Huron, Mich.— wrecked 1833.
" . . New York 325 . . Black Eock, N. Y.— broken up.
" ..Michigan (1st) 472. .Detroit, Mich.— broken up.
" . . Daniel Webster .... 358 . . Black Eock, N. Y.— burnt 1335.
" . . Detroit (1st) 240 . . Toledo, O.— wrecked 1336.
" . .Lady of the Lake. . 60. .Mt. Clemens, Mich. — broken up.
" . . Gov. Marcy 161 . . Black Eock, N. Y.— broken up.
'' ..North America 362.. Conneaut, 0.— broken up.
" ..Newberry 170.. Palmer, Mich. — broken up.
" . .Delaware 170 . . Huron, Mich. — wrecked 1834.
1834. .Victory 77. .Buffalo, N. Y.— broken up.
" ..Gen. Porter 342. .Black Eock, N.Y.— name ch. to Toronto.
" ..Jefferson 428. .Erie, Penn. — broken up.
" . . Com. Perry 352 . . Perrysburg, 0. — boiler exploded 1835.
" ..Monroe 341.. Monroe, Mich.— broken up.
" ..Mazeppa 130. .Buffalo, N. Y. — changed to schooner.
" . . Sandusky 377 . . Sandusky, 0.— burnt 1343.
" . .Minnessetunk (Br.) 250. .Goderich, C. W. — broken up.
" ..Jackson 50. .Mt. Clemens, Mich. — broken up.
" . . Jack Downing 80 . . Sandusky, 0. — changed to schooner.
" . .Little Western (Br.) 60. .Chatham, C. W.— burnt 1342.
1835 . . Eobert Fulton 308 . . Cleveland, O.— wrecked in 1842.
" . . Columbus 391 . . Huron, Mich. — broken up.
" . . Charles Townsend. 312 . . Buffalo, N. Y. — broken up.
" ..United States 366.. Huron, Mich. — broken wp.
" ..Chicago 166.. St. Joseph, Mich.— wrecked in 13^42.
" . . W. F. P. Taylor. . . 95. .Silver Creek, N. Y.— wrecked 1-33.
" . Thames (British). . . 160 . . Chatham. C. W.— burnt 1833.
1836. .De Witt Clinton. . . . 493. .Huron, Mich, -broken up.
" . .Julia Palmer* 300. .Buffalo. N. Y.— broken up.
" ..Don Quixote SO. .Toledo, 0.— wrecked 1336.
" ..Crockett 13 . Brunersburg— wrecked 1344.
* Taken over the portage at the Saut Ste Marie in 18-16.
16*
186 LIST OF STEAMERS.
Birlt. Name. Tons. Wheie biiilr. Kemark?.
1 836 . . Little Erie 149 . . Detroit, Mich.— lost in 1842.
" ..Barcelona (British). 102. .Dunnville, G. "W.— changed to schooner.
" . .United (British) ... 40. .Detroit, Mich.— blown up.
" ..St. (Plair 250.. Sandusky, 0.
" . . Cincinnati 116 . . Sandusky, 0.— changed to schooner.
1837. .Illinois (1st) 755. .Detroit, Mich.— broken up.
"• . .Eochester 472. .Eichmond — changed to sail ressel.
" . . Madison 630 . . Erie, Penn. — broken up.
" . . Cleveland 580 . . Huron, Mich. — burnt in 1854.
" . . Wisconsin 700 . . Conneaut, 0. — broken up.
" ..Erie 497. .Erie, Penn.— burnt Aug., 1841.
" . . Constellation 4S3 . . Charleston— broken up.
" ..Bunker Hill 457. .Charleston- broken up.
" . .Constitution 44^3. .Conneaut, O.— broken up.
" ..New England 416. .Black Eock, N. T.-broken up.
" ..Milwaukee 400. .Grand Island -wrecked 1842.
" . . Anthony Wayne . . . 390 . . Perrysburg, 0. — blown up 1850.
" ..Macomb 100. .Mt. Clemens, Mich. — tow boat.
" . . Ehode Island 164. . Sandusky, O. — wrecked.
" . . Star 128 . . Belvidere, Mich, —broken up.
" ..Goderich (British). 200..
" ..Commerce 80. .Sandusky, 0.
" ..Mason 83 .. Grand Eapids, Mich.
'838.. Great Western 780. .Huron, Mich.— broken up.
" . . Buffalo G13 . . Buffalo, N. Y.— changed to sail vessel.
" ..Chesapeake 412.. Maimaee, O.— sunk 1846.
. .Vermilion 885. .Vermilion, O. — burnt 1842.
" . .Lexington 863. . Charleston, 0.— broken up.
" ..Fairport 259. .Fairport, 0. — name changed.
" ..Eed Jacket 143. .Grand Island, N. T.
" . . Gen. Vance 75 . . Perrysburg, O.
" ..James AJlen 253. .Chicago, 111.
" . .Washington (2d). . . 880. .Ashtabula, O.— burnt 1S3S.
" ..G.W.Dale 162. .Chicago, 111.
" ..C.C.Trowbridge.. 52. .Kalamazoo, Mich.
" . . Marshall 51 . . Perrysburg, O.
" ..Wabash 84 .
" . . Owashenonk 45 . . Grand Haven, Mich
" . . Patronage 56 . . St. Joseph, Mich.
1839.. Gen. Scott 240.. Huron, Mich.— sunk 1847.
" ..Chautauque 200 .. Buffalo, N. Y.
" . .Brothers (British) . . 150. . Chatham, C. W.— broken up.
" ..Kent (British) ISO.. Chatham, C. W.
" . . Huron 140 . . Newport, Mich. — broken up.
" . . Harrison (1st) 63 . . Erie, Penn. — broken up.
1840. .Detroit (2d) 350. .Newport, Mich. — sunk in Lake Huron
" . . Missouri 612 . . Vermilion — broken up.
" . . Waterloo 100 . . Black Eock, N. Y.— broken up.
" . .Harrison (2d) 862. .Maumee, 0.— broken up.
1841. .Indiana 4:34. .Toledo, O.— burnt 1348.
1842.. Benj. Franklin 231..Algonac, Mich. — wrecked.
" ..John Owen 230. .Detroit, Mich.— tow boat.
1843 .. Nile 600 . . Detroit. Mich.— wrecked 1849.
" ..Union 64. .Black Eock, N. Y.
" . . Champion 270 . . Newport, Mich. — broken up.
1844. .Emerald (British) . . 250 . . Chippewa, C. W.
" . .Empire 1,136. .Cleveland. O. — running on Lake Erie.
" . .Tecumseh 259. .(Old Fairport)— wrecked in 18rH).
" ..J. Wolcott SO.. Maumee, 0.— burnt in 1851.
LIST OF STEAMERS. 187
Bui'it. Nnme. Tons. 'WliPre Imilt. Eemaiks.
1S44. .Indian Queen 112. .Buffalo, N. Y.— wrecked in 1S46.
" . .New Orleans 610. .Detroit, Mich. — wrecked 1S49.
" . . St. Louis 618 . . Perrysburg, O. — wrecked in 1852.
" ..U. S. St. Michigan. 538. .Erie, Penn. — in commission.
" . . " Abert 133 . . Buffalo, N. Y.— in commission.
1&45. .Niagara (2d) 1,0S4 .. Buffalo, N. Y.— burnt Sept., 1856.
" . . Boston 775 . . Detroit, Mich. — wrecked 1816.
" . . Oregon 7S1 . . Newport, Mich. — burnt 1819.
" ..Troy 547..Maumee, O. — laid up.
" . . Superior (2d) 567 . . Perrvsburg, O.— wrecked Oct., 1S56.
" . . Lexington 8C3 . . Black River. O.
" ..Astor 200.. Green Bay, Wis. — wrecked.
" ..Enterprise 100.. Green Bay, Wis.
" . .London (British). . . 456. .Chippewa, C.W.— changed to sail vessel.
" . . Helen Strong 253 . . Monroe, Mich. — wrecked in 1846.
" . . Eomeo 180 . . Detroit, Mich.— tow boat.
1846 . . Albany 669 . . Detroit, Mich.— wrecked in 1854.
" . . Hendrick Hudson. . 750 . . Black River, 0. — runs on Lake Erie.
" ..Louisiana 900.. Buffalo, N. Y. — runs on Upper Lakes.
" . . Saratoga 800 . . Cleveland, 0.— wrecked in 1854.
" ..Canada (British)... 800.. Chippewa, C. W.— changed to barque.
1847. .Baltic 825. .Buffalo, N. Y.— changed^ to propeller.
" . . Sultana 800 . . Trenton, Mich. — runs on Upper Lakes.
" . . A. D. Patchin 870 . . Trenton, Mich.— wrecked in 1850.
" . .Baltimore 500. .Monroe, Mich. — wrecked in 1S55.
" ..Diamond 836. .Buffalo, N. Y.— tow boat.
" . . Pacific. 500 . . New}5ort, Mich. — changed to sail vesseL
" . . Ohio (2d) 600 . . Cleveland, 0.— tow boat.
" . . Samuel Ward 450 . . Newport, Mich. — runs on Lake Huron.
" ..Southerner 500. .Trenton, Mich. — wrecked in lS5o.
1848 . . Arrow 350 . . Cleveland, 0. — runs on Lake Erie.
" . .Alabama 600. .Detroit, Mich.— sunk in 1854.
" ..Franklin Moore.... 300.. Newport, Mich.— tow boat.
" ..J.D.Morton 400.. Toledo, O.— tow boat.
" . .Empire State 1,700. .St, Clair, Mich.— laid up.
" . . Queen City 1,000 . . Bufltilo, N. Y.— runs on Upper Lakes.
*' . . Globe 1,200 . . Detroit, Mich.— changed to propeller.
" ..Columbia 167. .Fairport, O.
" . .Charter 350. .Detroit, Mich. — changed to propeller.
" . . John HoUister 300. .Perrysburg, O. — burnt on Lake Erie.
1&49. .Atlantic 1,100. .Newport, Mich.— sunk in Lake Erie 1853.
" . .May Flower 1,300. .Detroit, Mich. — wrecked in 1854.
" . Keystone State 1,500. .Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Upper Lakes.
" ..Telegraph 181. .Truargo, Mich.— runs on Lake Erie.
1850. .Dart 297. .Trenton, Mich.— runs on Lake Erie.
" . .Dover (British). . . . 81. .Port Dover, C. W.
" . . Ocean 900 . . Newjiort, Mich.— runs on Lake Erie.
" ..MayQueen 6SS runs on Lake Erie.
1351 . .Arctic 867. .Newport,^Iich. — runs on Lake Michigan.
" ..Bay City 479.. Trenton. Mich.— runs on Lake Erie.
" . .Buckeye State 1,274. . Cleveland, O.— runs on Upper Lakes.
" ..Northerner 514. .Cleveland, 0.— sunk in 1856.
" . Pearl 251. .Newport, Mich.— runs on Lake St. Clair.
" . .Ploughboy (British) 450. .Chatham, C. W.— runs on Lake Huron.
" . .Mazeppa (British) . 250 runs on Lake Huron.
" ..Queen (British) 64 .Dunnville. C.W.— runs on Lake St. Clair
" ..Minnesota 749. .Maumoe, O.
" ..Caspi.an 1,050 .. Ne^-port, Mich.— wrecked in 1S52,
" . .Lady Elgin 1,037. .Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Upper Lakes.
188 LIST OF STEAMERS.
Built. Nime. Tons. Wliere Imilr. Ke'iiarks.
1852. .Cleve and 574. .Newport. Mich.— runs on Upper Lakes
" .. Golden Gate 771. .Buffalo, X. Y.— wrecked in 1856.
" ..Huron 348. .Newport, Mich.
" . .Traveller 603. .Newport, Mich.— runs on Upper Lakes.
" . .Michigan (Zd) — . .Detroit, Mich. — runs on Upper Lakes.
1853. .Crescent City 1.740. .Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie.
" . .Queen of the West. 1,851. Buffalo, N. Y. — runs on Lake Erie.
" . . Mississippi 1,829. .Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie.
" . .St. Lawrence 1.S44. .Buffalo, N. Y.— laid up.
" . .E. K. CoUins 950. .Newport, Mich.— burnt Oct., 1854.
" . . Ariel 1 65 . . Sandusk v, O. — runs on Lake Erie.
" . .Garden City —. .Buffalo, is\ Y.— wrecked May, 1S54.
" . . Canadian (British) . 389. . Chatham, C. "W".— runs on Georgian Bay.
" . .Collingwood (Br.). . — runs on Georgian Bay
" ..T.Whitney 238. . Saginaw. Mich.
" . .Northern Indiana .1,470. .Buffalo, N. Y.— burnt Aug., 1856.
" . .Southern Michigan.1,470. .Buffalo, N. Y. — runs on Lake Erie.
" . .Forrester 504. .Newport, Mich. — runs on Lake Huron.
1854.. Ply mouth Kock 1,991.. Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie.
" . . Western World 2,000 . . Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie.
" . . North Star 1,106 . . Cleveland, O. — runs on Upper Lakes.
" . .Illinois 926. .Detroit, Mich, —runs on Upper Lakes.
" . . K. R. Elliott 321 . . Newport, Mich.— tow boat.
" ..Clifton (British).... 247. Chippewa.C.W.— lake and river St. Clair.
1855.. Forest Queen 462.. Newport, Mich. — runs on Lake Huron.
" ..Planet 1,1.^4.. Newport, Mich.— runs on L'pper Lakes
" . .Island Queen 173. .Kelley's Island— runs on Lake Erie.
1856. .Amity (British) .... 217.. Chatham, C. W.
" ..Magnet 256.. Saginaw, Mich. — runs on Lake Huron
" . . Western Metropolis 1,800 . . Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie.
" . . Uncle Ben 155 .. Buffalo N. Y.— to w boat.
1857. .City of Buffalo 2,200. .Buffalo, 2^. Y.— runs on Lake Erie.
Note. — Besides the above list, there are a few small steamers
of -which nothing is known other than their names, among these
are the Penetanguishene, Cynthia, Pontiac, Phenomenon, etc.
The Steamer Caroline, whose destruction filled so large a
portion of public notice, was originally known as the Carolina,
and is believed to have been built in New York, at an early
date, then sent to Charleston, S. C, where she ran for several
years. Before passing into Lake Erie she ran a couple of
seasons on the Hudson Ptiver, between Albany and Troy, when
her guards were shipped so as to admit her through the Erie
and Oswego Canals. She was re-built at Ogdensburgh, N. Y.,
in 1834, and passed'through the Welland Canal into Lake Erie.
The date of her destruction by the British at Schlosser, near
Niagara Falls, was Dec. 29, 1837, when five lives were SAipposed
to be lost.
PROPOSED SHIP CANAL. 189
T.A-R-F. ERIE AND MICHIGAN SHIP CANAL.
From the Buffalo {N. F.) Commercial, March, 1857.
" This project is attracting the attention of Western and
Eastern papers. No doubt is expressed as to the practi-
cability of the construction of the Canal. In fact, it is con-
ceded that one can be built across the base of the peninsula
Ttithout deep cutting, and the probability is that it Avould not
exceed fifty feet at any particular point But while they grant
the feasibility of the plan, they occasionally express the opinion
that it will be a long time before it will be built, if ever. Xow,
why not, pray ? Because, we suppose, it would cost a pretty
round figure to build it. Is this an insurmountable objection,
if the construction of the work be entirely feasible ? if all the
shipping to and from Lake Michigan, present and to come, will
pass through it r if the margin in the original cost and the
time of a trip, via the straits and Lake Huron, and via the
canal, be, as it would be, largely in favor of the latter, thus
making it capable of producing a good per centage of tolls ? —
the accomplishment of which would yield a remunerative
revenue."
The Toledo (Ohio) Comm'-rcial has the following:
" The harbor of Toledo affords the only suitable terminus for
the proposed Ship Canal on Lake Erie, and there can scarcely
be a doubt that it will be adopted by any company which may be
organized for constructing the work. But in view of the im-
mense importance of the canal to the interests of Toledo, would
it not be well for our board of trade to look into the matter,
and keep an eye open for any possible speculative movement
which may be set on foot to select some other starting point ?
There should, indeed, be enterprise enough among our own
citizens to take the initiative in this most important project.
Under our general law, a company might be organized here
for the portion of the line lying within the State of Ohio : and
a similar organization could very readily be eflected in Indiana,
for the extension through that State. A large local interest in
the stock would effectually secure to Toledo the advantages to
which she is entitled by natural position ; supposing, always,
that the canal is to be opened — of which there really ought to
be no doubt.
" A route for the canal, eminently practicable, and without
deep cutting or heavy lockage, can be found, we are confident,
thi'ougii Ohio and Indiana."
17
190 PROPOSED SHIP CANAL.
The following is from the Monroe (Mich.) Commercial :
" For many years past the public attention has, at times,
been directed to the importance of a ship canal from iMonroe,
on Lake Erie, to the waters of Lake Michigan. The project is
perfectly feasible, but railroad enterprises have of late been so
numerous, as to divert public attention from the benefits and
objects of such a canal. The absolute necessities of commerce,
however, are such as to bring the subject forcibly and favor-
ably before the community, and the grea-t commercial interests
of certain locations are intimately connected with the comple-
tion of such a work. For instance, the project now on foot in
Canada West, and portions of New York, of which Oswego is the
commercial center, for constructing a ship canal, to connect
Lakes Ontario and Huron, if carried forward to completion,
would be a more fatal blow to the prosperity of Buffalo than
any great work of improvement that could be made on the
American continent. The immense trade between the great
agricultural States in the West, and the Atlantic States in the
East, now tributary to Buffalo, would seek the new route, and
make Oswego, at the expense, and to the destruction of Buffalo,
the great commercial metropolis of the lakes. The citizens of
Western Xew York see this, and the necessity of availing them-
selves of a rival, and more ready and feasible route for a ship
canal, to retain the ascendency they already possess, and se-
cure forever, and beyond doubt, the trade, business, and profits
of the business of the great Vv'est.
'•' A ship canal from Monroe to the navigable waters of Lake
Michigan will accomplish this. The canal would be easily
made, and would always be abundantly supplied with water
from the lake, in the county of Hillsdale, which is now the
source of four of the principal rivers of this State. The canal
would make a direct line, and of course the shortest one that
could be made, between Chicago and Buffalo and the Atlantic
cities, and be certain of securing the transportation of the
grain and provision trade of the West, and all the heavy freight
business that now moves tediously by the protracted route of
the lakes. The distance would be shortened more than half,
or some five to six hundred miles, and that the expenses now
incurred for insurance on produce, vessels, and goods, by the
lakes, and the loss of property on Lakes Huron and Michigan,
would pay the construction of the canal in a very few years.
" Why, then, should this great and important work be longer
delayed } A discerning public can see its absolute necessity,
and security and permanency of great commercial interests
urge its construction, by every consideration of self-preserva-
tion and future greatness.
" We do say that Monroe and Michigan are also deeply in-
LAKE AXD OCKAN NAVIGAIION'. 191
terestel in this great ship canal, and that they can do much tc
encourage its construction at an early day. Buffalo is moving,
and let Monroe and Southern Michigan second tiie move. The
object can not fail to enlist the hearty co-operation of Southern
Michigan, and we call upon our citizens to wake up to tlie great
work. It is not only a feasible improvement, but will prove an
eminently successful one, and will work a revolution in the
commerce of the Northwest that will make Monroe one of the
greatest cities of the lakes."
DIEECT TRANSPOETATION FEOM LAEIE SUPEEIOE TO
LIYEEPOOL.
From Vie St. Paul (Minnesota) Adtertiser,
" An article from the European Times recites the arrival at
Liverpool, direct from Chicago, of the schr. ' D^:A]v Richmonp,'
whose departure we announced some three months ago. In this
simple announcement is contained the initial fact of a new era
in commercial history, and issues of startling and overwhelm-
ing significance crowd upon the calmest view of its relations
with the future West. It seems to us — we know not if we ap-
prehend its bearings correctly — that the results of this experi-
ment must be an eventual revolution of the internal traffic of
the Western States. It virtually makes our inland lakes the
Mediterranean Sea of North America, and Chicago becomes the
Alexandria of modern times. It peels off the littoral rind of the
New World at a stroke — and splits the ripe apple of the conti-
nent to its core. Ocean commerce will follow that entering
wedge. Direct transportation will inevitably supersede the ex-
pensive and complicated machinery employed in conveying
Western grain through its present channels — which, besides in-
volving several expensive trans-shipments, is attended with an
important diminution of bulk. The Atlantic, ttie far Bos-
phorus, the Baltic, and the seas of the old hemisphere, Avill flow
in through the rent tora by the keel of the ' Dean Richmond,'
and the majestic *commerce of the ocean overleaping the huge
complications of human ingenuity — passing in triumph past the
monuments of Clinton's genius, past canals and railroads, rail-
roads and canals — through rivers and lakes, 2,000 miles into
the interior — will plant its sea-worn flags upon the shores of
Lake Michigan, and sit in royal state like another queen of
Sheba, on the throne that Western industry shall build for her
in the chief city of the interior plain of North America. No-
body can doubt that the demonstrated practicability of direct
shipment from Chicago to Europe will eventually transfer the
192 LAKE AND OCEAN NAVIGATION'.
business of transportation to this channel. An inevitable con-
sequence of this will be the enlargement of the Weliand Ship
Canal,* the ring-bolt in the chain of communication from the
ocean to the lakes, to a capacity sufficient for a ship of any re-
quired size. The application of steam will overcome the delays
of navigation, and the path opened by the ' Dean Eichmond'
will be thronged with the flags of every nation. But this is not
all. What is true of Lake Michigan is true of Lake Superior.
What is possible by the Weliand Canal is equally possible with
the Saut Ste Marie. The splendid chain of inland navigation
does not end with Chicago. It is complete to the extreme west-
ern end of Lake Superior. Here, at the uttermost limit of
ship-navigation, the town of Superior, some two years old, and
containing not more than 1,000 inhabitants, is slowly rising on
the shores of the queen lake, from the somber woods that sur-
round it, to meet the majestic destiny that is creeping with
slow pace up the St. Lawrence and through the lakes toward
her, to cast the commerce of the ocean at her feet, and crown
her with a diadem of ocean pearls. Nor is this all. The ocean
highway, extending from the mouth of the St. Lawrence to the
extremity of Lake Superior, will be the basis of the whole sys-
tem of Western railroads. A J\'^orthern Pacific Railroad, with
a terminus at Superior, is the necessary supplement of the
navigable highway we have described. The arguments in its
favor are irresistible, unanswerable. It is a logical deduction
from the whole law of railroads. The paramount purpose of
the Pacific Railroad, we take to be, to facilitate the commercial
intercoiu'se between the Atlantic and Pacific coasts, in other
words, to facilitate transportation. Now transportation is im-
pelled by an irresistible impulse in the cheapest route. Hence
gravitation itself is scarcely more a law than the tendency of
railroads to the nearest water-course in the dii-ection of their
destination. They break off at once by a sort of physical ne-
cessity, as transporting agencies, at the nearest navigable water
communication. One always ends where the other begins. The
commercial apparatus of the country is full of instances per-
tinent to this. By this long chain of inland lakes, covering
nearly half of the distance between the Atlantic and Pacific
coasts, nature seems to point with the force of a divine decree
to a supplementary railroad route to the Pacific, to connect at
its nearest span the ocean navigation of the opposite sides of the
continent, and there can be no doubt that, other things being
equal in feasibility of a route west of the Mississippi, the first
road to the Pacific will abut on the shore of Lake Superior."
* Also .the construction of a ship canal around the Falls of Niagara, on
the American or New York side of the river.
THE COMMERCE OF THE LAKES.
Extract^ from the Report of the Congressional Committee
on the subject of the Commerce of the Lakes.
The following (from the Cleveland Herald) is the total Ton-
nage of the Lakes for 1854 and 1855, including the steam ton-
nage for the same years :
Districts. Tonnage. Steam Tonnage.
18.D4. 1855. 1S65.
Sackett's Harbor 7 ,570 6,227 1 ,944
Oswego 24,365 42.460 5,199
Genesee 233 128
Niagara 868 468 128
Oswegatchie 3,744 4,485 3,042
Buffalo Creek S2,678 76,952 38.262
Cape Vincent 4,866 6,609 1,143
Presquelsle 8,210 9.269 4,720
Cuyahoga 45,483 51,078 15,012
Sandusky 6,084 8,051 300
Miami 6,479 3,763 115
Detroit 52,363 65.058 32.180
Mackinac 4,393 4,431 2,397
Milwaukee 14,117 15,673 288
Chicago 31,041 50,972 3,207
Total tonnage 291,231 345,729 108,243
" Increase of lake tonnage (steam and sail) from June oOth,
1854, to June 30th, 1855, a fraction over 18 8-.0 per cent.
" Ratio of steam to sail tonnage for 1855, a small fraction
less than 1-3.
TOTAL TONNAGE OF THE UIsriTED STATES FOR 1854 AND 1855.
Eegistered. Enrolled. Total Tonnage.
1854 2,333,819 2.469,083 4,802,902
1855 2,535,136 2,676,864 5,212,000
" Ratio of increase of lake tonnage over the aggregate total
tonnage of the United States, a fraction over 2 3-10 per cent,
per annum more than double; or as 18 8-10 to 8-12 in favor of
lake tonnage, which thus constitutes 1 1-15 of the entire ton-
nage of the U. States.
" The clearances of vessels from ports in the U, S. to Canada,
and the entries of vessels from Canada to ports in the U. S.,
194 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES.
during the year 1855, show a greater amount of tonnage en-
tered and cleared than between the U. States a id any other for-
eign cQuntry.
" From the U. S. to Canada there were 2,369 clearances of
American vessels, and 6,638 of Canadian, making a total of
9,007. The total tonnage was 1,793,519. The clearances from
Canada to the U. S. for the same time were 2,454 American
vessels and 4,194 Canadian, making a total of ^.648, with a
total tonnage of 1,767,730. and a total tonnage back and forth
of 3,561,249.
"The value of lake tonnage for 1854, $10,185,000; at an
average of $43 per ton, this would make the value of the in-
creased tonnage for 1855 (viz., 345,000 tons) reach $14,835,000.
" The following table shows the value of the lake commerce
for 1855, excluding the districts of Presque Isle and Mackinac,
and not includins; the freight and passenger trade :
Districts. Tonnage Ent'd & Cleared. Val. of Imp'ts. & Exp'ts.
Cuyahoga 1,782,493 $162,185,640
Buffalo Creek 3,330,232 333,023,000
Sandusky 59,966,000
Maumee 1,034,644 94,107,000
Chicago 2,632,000 233.878.000
Detroit 1,538,000 140,000.000
Milwaukee 35,000,000
Oswego 1,607,000 145,235,000
Sackett's Harbor,
Cape Vincent,
Oswegatchie, )■ 42,226,000
Genesee,
Niagara,
Exports and Imports $1,216,620,640
Total value of lake commerce, excluding Presque
Isle and Mackinac $608,310,390
" This sum may seem incredible to those unacquainted with
the immense carrying trade of these lakes. But the figures
will show that the trade between the U. S. and Canada, car-
ried on over the lakes, is in value next to that between France
and the U. S. The amount of American goods sent to Canada
is $9,950,764, and the amount of foreign goods, but passing
through American hands, is $8,769,280 ; while the amount of
goods sent from Canada to the States is $12,182,314, making a
total trade between the two countries of $30,902,658.*
* These figures are very convincing of the fact that the interests of the
Canadas with the United States are oi e and identical -and the commer-
cial and social good understanding happily existing between the two
COMMERCE OF TR il LAKES. 195
" The actual value of property exposed to the perils of lake
navigation is considerably greater than the total value of the
merchandise of every description exported from the U. S to all
foreign countries, added to the total value of merchandise im-
ported//ow all foreign countries into the United States.
" The dangers to which our lake commerce is exposed are
three, viz., shipwreck, collisioc, and stranding. These are
shown to be in a great measure attributable °o the narrow-
area over which this commerce is carried on, the stormy char-
acter of the lakes, the exposed condition of the lake coasts, and
the want of natural or artificial harbors of commerce or of
refuge for the lake shipping.
" The following are the dimensions of the lakes and their
connecting rivers :
Lakes. Length. Greatest breadth. Av. breadth. Areas
Ontario.... ISO 52 . . . 40 6 400
g^^^ 240 67 38 ..:::: 7,800
H^^Z-.^ 2/0 105 70 20,400
Michigan.. 340 83 58 20,000
St. Clair... 20 25 25 300
^, ^, .,^''^1? 461 53,900
Str. Detroit. 2/
St. Clair 38 _
1,115 total length.
"Thus a vessel sailing from Cape Vincent, Lake Ontario, to
Chicago, Lake Michigan, by keeping the center lines of the
lakes will sail 1,115 miles; and yet will average not more
than 2o miles from shore throughout the whole distance
"But the coast Hue of the lakes on the American side is much
longer and excluding Green Bay and the northwest coast of
Lake Michigan, is for Lake Ontario 200 miles; Erie, 350 • Hu-
ron, 440 ; Michigan, 850 ; or a total of 1,940 miles '
"A very large proportion of the extensive commerce above
set forth is conducted by sail and steam vessels, at but a few
miles' distance from the American coasts of these lakes and
over a surface not exceeding an area of 7,000 square m'iles •
more than 1,400 miles of this coast constitutes to the numerous
vessels by which this commerce is carried on, a le- shore to the
fear of which vessels navigating those lakes are constantly ex-
" No reference has been made to the commerce and navigation
countries leaves no room for hope on the part of the OUgarchal Mother
dfsttn^m^^nkX^To'^ ^'" ""^^° ^^"^ ^'^ ^-^'"« sub'ordinati^it'a^
IOC) CoJ.rMKHCE (<F THE LAKES.
of Lake Suj)3rlor from tlie want cf satisfactory data. In 1855,
however, the exports of iron and coT'per alone from Lake Supe-
rior ports amounted to $2,700,000.
'• The national importance of the lake commerce and navi-
gation is clearly set forth — first with reference to the population
of the seven States bordering on these lakes, and consequently
interested in their navigation and commerce. Secondly, the
position of those States relatively to the great valley of the
MississijDpi Kiver; and the extent and cost of their railroads
and lands, designed to open and facilitate commei'cial inter-
course between the Atlantic Ocean, the lakes, and navigable
waters and tributaries of the Mississippi Eiver. Thirdly, the
position of these seven lake States relatively to the British pos-
sessions and the valley of the St. Lawrence Eiver. fourthly,
the importance of the commerce and navigation of the lakes as
a nursery of seamen from which the navy of the United States
may be supplied with the first class of seamen in the time of
war, in which the tonnage of the lakes is compared with the
tonnage engaged in the whale, cod, and mackerel fisheries.
" The white population of the United States, according to the
census of 1850, was 19,553,038. There are seven States bounded
in part with great lakes, with a population as follows :
New York 3,048,325
Pennsylvania 2,258,100
Ohio 1,955,050
Michigan • 395,071
Indiana 977,154
Illinois 846,034
Wisconsin 804,756
White population cf the 7 lake States. . 9,784,550
" 24 other States. 9,768,488
Balance in favor of the lake States. . . 16,0G2
" Showing that the white population of the seven lake States
is greater by 16,062* than the total white population of the re-
maining twenty-four States ; and the difference has probably
been still more increased since 18j0.
" The total value of foreign im}X)rts for 1855 in this region
is $^274,403, 935. If the seamen engaged in the lake navigation
or in the fisheries are propoi'tionate in number to the tonnage
engaged in each, then those engaged in the navigation of the
lakes must very considerably exceed those engaged in the whale,
cod, and mackerel fisheries.
* The population of Minnesota (say 100,000) should be added to the
above excess- of white population.
COMMERCE OF THE LAKjvS. 197
** The amount of losses sustained by vessels and cargoes for
want of suitable river and harbor improvements— number and
kind of vessels sustaining losses on the lakes by " shipwreck,
stranding, and collision," from 1848 to 1855 inclusive, with the
amount of damage sustained :
STEAMBOATS.
Shipwre^ck. Stranding. Collision.
No. Loss. No. Loss. No. Loss.
1848 3 $25,000 9 $47,000 0 S
1849 1 25,000 6 21,000 3 1.400
1850 5 98,000 8 13,400 8 28,800
1851 2 27,000 5 36,700 9 8,000
1852 3 125,000 5 14.700 16 158,350
1853 3 126,000 7 51.000 11 31,650
1854 4 110,000 2 110,000 8 31,200
1855 4 378,000 11 11,350 12 36,600
1848 23 $128,500
1849 10 56,900
1850 20 89,600
1851 34 132,700
1852 30 183,100
1853 27 175,400
1854 52 407,626
1855 40 418,300
25 914,000 52 305,150 67 286,000
PROPELLERS,
1848 0 $ 1 $12,000 1 $400
1849 0 1 5,000 0
1850 0 4 2,500 3 2,400
1851 2 55,000 6 32.800 10 40,400
1852 4 85,000 5 6.900 9 73,000
1853 1 42.000 7 28,000 4 39,000
1854 5 370,000 0 8 69,500
1855 7 351,000 11 9,950 19 557,750
19 903,000 35 99,050 54 667,800
SATL VESSELS.
65
$73,020
3
S36,000
30
42,900
10
17,000
64
82,150
11
44,600
86
83,950
22
50,700
62
96,000
85
28,500
62
84,000
15
23,700
0
16
90,650
109
184,650
52
121.800
Sail 236 1,591 ,626 479 646,770 164 414,250
Propellers ... 19 903,000 35 99,050 54 667,800
Steamboats . . 25 914,500 52 305,150 67 286,000
Total . . .380 3,409,126 566 1,051,170 285 1,368,050
17*
198 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES.
TOTAL LOSS IN" EIGHT YEARS.
Numbei Damasres.
By Shipwreck 380 $o.4<.>9j26
By Stranding 566 1,051.170
By Collision 285 1,368,050
Total 1,231 5,828,346
" Whole number of disasters to vessels and cargoes, or either
of them, during these eight years, 2.117, of "which 1.231 con-
sist of siiipwreck, stranding, and collision, a little over 4-6 of
the whole, while the damage from these causes during the same
period was nearly 5-7 of the whole, and amounted to $5,828.346 ;
the total damage from disasters of all kinds being $8,852,649.
" The amount of damages to the commerce of the lakes dur-
ing 1854, from the difficulty of crossing the St. Clair Flats with
loaded vessels, was as follows :
VESSELS E]VGAGED IJV 1854 II\' TRADE TO THE UPPER LAKES.
Steamboats 8 Tonnage, 6,880
Propellers 44 " 21,796
Sail Vessels (Barques) 32 " 12,234
Brigs 84 '« 24.757
Schooners 198 " 48,323
Total Tons 110,990
SAIL VESSELS.
Paid towing and lighterage on Flats $163,686 56
Time detained— days, 5,566 220,640 00
Damages by collision, paid for repairs 62,800 00
$452,146 56
Steam vessels paid for like damages 208,000 00
Total damage on St. Clair Flats (for the season) . . $660,146 56
" We call especial attention to the last item.
" The amount of duties collected in the fifteen collection dis-
tricts of the Great Lakes from 1837 to 1855 was $5,511,129 90,
and the whole amount of appropriations that have been made
to these lakes from the beginning of the government till now is
$2,884,125, showing that the United States have received from
the lake revenue $2,267,004 98 more than it has given back to
it in any shape. This balance will cover the amount expended
on the light-houses on the lakes, with repairs, attendance of
keepers, and the cost of the ship canal around the St. Mary's
Falls, and stiU leave $1,000,000 for the U. States Ti-easury."
POPULATIOSr, COMMERCE, ETC. 199
WESTWAED MOVEMENT OF THE CENTEE OF POPULATION,
COMMEECE, AND OF INDUSTEIAL POWER IN NOETH
AMEEICA.
Extract from HunPs MerchanVs Magazine.
•' In the rapidly developing greatness of Nortli America, it is interesting
to look to the future, and speculate on the most probable points of central-
ization of its commercial and social power.
" Including with our nation, as forming an important part of its com-
mercial community, the Canadas, and contiguous Provinces, the center
of population, white and black, is a little west of Pittsburgh, situated at
the head of navigation on the Ohio Eiver. The movement of this center
is north of west, about in the direction of Chicago. The center of pro-
ductive power can not be ascertained with any degree of precision. We
know it must be a considerable distance east, and north of the center of
population. That center, too, is on its grand march westward. Both, in
their regular progress, will reach Lake Michigan. The center of indus-
trial power will touch Lake Erie, and possibly, but not probably, the cen-
ter of population now move so far northward as to reach Lake Erie alsp.
Their tendency will be to come together ; but a considerable time will be
required to bring them into near proximity. Will the movement of these
centers be arrested before they reach Lake Michigan ? I think no one
expects it to stop eastward of that lake ; few will claim that it will go far
beyond it. Is it not, then, as certain as any thing in the future can be,
that the central power of the continent will move to, and become perma-
nent on, the border of the Great Lakes ? Around these pure waters will
gather the densest population, and on their borders will grow up the best
towns and cities.* As the centers of population and wealth approach, and
pass Cleveland, that city should swell to large size. Toledo will be stUI
nearer the lines of their movement, and should be more favorably afifected
by them, as the aggregate power of the continent will, by that time, be
greatly increased. As these lines move westward toward Chicago, the
influence of their position will be divided between that city and Toledo,
distributing benefits according to the degree of proximity.
" If we had no foreign commerce, and all other circumstances were
equal, the greatest cities would grow up along the line of the central in-
dustrial power, in its western progress, each new city becoming greater
than its predecessor, by the amount of power accumulated on tlie conti-
nent for concentration from point to point of its progress. But as there
are points from one resting-place to another possessing greatly superior
advantages for commerce over all others, and near enough the center line
of industrial power to appropriate the commerce which it offers, to these
points we must look for our future great cities. To become chief of these,
there must be united in them the best facilities for transport, by water and
by land. It is too plain to need proof, that these positions are occupied by
Cleveland, Toledo, and Chicago.
" But we have a foreign commerce beyond the continent of North Amer-
ica, by means of the Atlantic Ocean, bearing the proportion, we will allow,
of one to twenty of the domestic commerce within the continent. Thia
proportion will seem small to persons who have not directed particular
attention to the subject. It is, nevertheless, within the truth. The proof
of this is diflacult, only because we can not get the figures that represent
the numberless exchanges of equivalents among each other, in such a
community as ours
***********
" It can scarcely admit of a doubt, that the domestic commerce of North
America bears a proportion as large as twenty to one of its foreign com-
merce. Has internal commerce a tendency to concentrate in few points,
POPULATION, COMMERCE, ETC.
.Ke foreign commerce Is its tendency to concentration ess faan that of
foreign commerce ? No difference in this respect can be perceived. All
commerce develops that law of its nature to the extent of its means. For-
eign commerce concentrates chiefly at those ports where it meets the
greatest internal commerce. The domestic commerce being the great
body, draws to it the smaller body of foreign commerce. New York, by
her canals, her railroads, and her superior position for coastwise naviga-
tion, has drawn to herself most of our foreign commerce, because she has
become the most convenient point for the concentration of our domestic
trade. It is absurd to suppose she can always, or even lor half a century,
remain the best point for the concentration of domestic trade ; and as the
foreign commerce will every year bear a less and less proportion to the
domestic commerce, it can hardly be doubted that before the end of one
century from this time the great center of commerce of aU kinds for North
America will be on a lake, harbor. Supposing the center of population
(now west of Pittsburgh) shall average a yearly movement westward, for
the next fifty years, of twenty miles, this would carry it one thousand
miles northwestward from Pittsburgh, and some five hundred or more
miles beyond the central point of the natural resources of the country. It
would pass Cleveland in five years, and Toledo in eleven years, reaching
Chicago, or some point south of it, in less than twenty-five years. The
geographical center of industrial power is probably now in northeastern
Pennsylvania, having but recently left the city of New York, where it
partially now for a time remains. This center will move at a somewhat
slower rate than the center of population. Supposing its movement to be
fifteen miles a year, it will reach Cleveland in twenty years, Toledo in
twenty-seven years, and Chicago in forty-five years.
* *'* * * * * * * *
"At the present rate of increase, the United States and the Canadas,
fifty years from this time, will contain over one hundred and twenty mil-
lions of people. If we suppose it to be one hundred and five millions, and
that these shall be distributed so that the Pacific States shall have ten mil-
lions, and the Atlantic border twenty-five millions, there will be left for the
great interior plain seventy millions. These seventy millions will have
twenty times as much commercial intercourse with each other as with all
the world besides. It is obvious, then, that there must be built up in
their midst the great city of the continent ; and not only so, but that they
will sustain several cities greater than those which can be sustained on
the ocean border."
ADVERTISEMENTS.
MICHIGAN CENTRAL RAILROAD CO.
NORTH SHORE LINE STDilMBOATS.
DETROIT A^^^D BUFFALO.
The new and magnincent Steamers PLYMOUTH EOCK, "WESTERN
WORLD, and MISSISSIPPI will form this line the ensuing season, and
commence running immediately upon the opening of navigation, as fol-
lows :
PLYMOUTH ROCK P. J. KALPH, Commander,
Will leave Detroit —Mondays and Thursdays.
" " Buffalo— Tuesdays and Fridays.
WESTERN WORLD J. S. RICHARDS, Commander,
Will leave Detroit— Wednesdays and Saturdays.
" " Buffalo— Mondays and Thursdays.
MISSISSIPPI S. G. LANG LEY, Commander,
Will leave Detroit — Tuesdays and Fridays.
" " Buffalo — Wednesdays and Saturdays.
These steamers are all new, of the largest class, being about 2,000 tons
each. The commanders and oflSoers are gentlemen of great experience and
capability. They are fitted up and furnished for the convenience of pas-
sengers in a style of comfort and luxury entirely unequaled, and are in all
respects considered the safest and most desirable steamers that sail upon
the Western waters.
For the transportation of Freight, the line will surpass any thing ever
before offered to the public, having arrangements with parties between
Boston and New York, and all points west of Buffalo to St. Louis, which
will enable them to forward goods and merchandise with greater dispatch
than has ever yet been attained.
For the transportation of live stock, these steamers offer facilities to
drovers which can not be surpassed or equaled.
^^" Shippers of merchandise from the East should mark packages to
the care of C. L. Setmotjk, Buffalo ; merchandise frem the ^Velit should bo
marked to the care of John Hosmee, Freight Agent, Detroit
C. B. SWAir^^ Agent,
DETROIT, MICH.
ADVERTISEMKNTS.
MICHIGAN SOUTHERl
kiijZ-ijK^ feaaluLj^ j^^^a. ^^H^^
RAILROAD LI]SrE.
BUFFALO TO CHICAGO.
Toledo, MJIwankep, Racine, Kenosha, Waukegao Galena,
Roik Island, Bnrimffton, Dnbnqne, Madison, Iowa
City, St. Louis, St. Paul, and all Places in
the West and Sonth West.
The following New Low Pressure STE AMEES form the Line from
BUFFALO TO TOLEDO,
CONNECTING THERE "WITH THE
MICHIGAN SOrTeEO AND NORTHERN IXDIANA RA'LROAD.
OXLT 242 MILES TO CHICAGO.
WESTERN METROPOLIS I. T. Pheatt, Com'r.
Leaves Buffalo Mondays and Thursdays.
CITY OF BUFFALO A. D. Perkins, "
Leaves Buffalo Tuesdays and Fridavs.
SOUTHERN MICHIGAN L. B."Goldsmith, "
Leaves Buffalo Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Leavinfj Micliigan Southern Railroad Dock, foot of Main Street, Buffalo,
every evening ^Sundays excepted), at 9 o'cloclv, or immediately after the
arrival of the Express Train from Boston, Albany, and New York, through
to Toledo without landing, where passengers take the Lightning Express
Train for Chicago, etc.
J?^" Passengers, by delivering their Checks to the Agent on the Cars,
can have their
Bagijage Conveyed to tlie Boat fiee of Charge, and Checked
Through
At Toledo this Line of Steamers connects with the TOLEDO, WABASH,
AND WESTERN RAILROAD.
P.assengers who desire to go all the way by Railroad, can take the
LAKE SHORE RAILROAD, at Buffalo, for Toledo, or GREAT WEST-
ERN RAILWAY, at Suspension Bridae, for Detroit, where direct con-
nections are made with tlie MICHIGAN SOUTHERN AND NORTH-
ERN INDIANA RAILROAD.
THROUGH TICKETS can be purchased at all Railroad and Steamboat
OfiSces East ; of the Agents of the Company, John F. Porter, 193 Broad-
way, Nc-. York; B. F. Fifield, Detroit; Geo. M. Gray, Chicago; II. B.
Ritchie, foot of Main Street, Buffalo.
SAM BROWN, General Superintendent, Toledo 0.
EZEA DOWNER, Traveling Agent.
ADVERTISEMENTS.
CLEVELAND, DETROIT, AND
LAKE SUPERIOR LINE.
On the Opening of Navigation three first-class Propellers,
carrying Freight and Passengers, will constitute the above line,
running regularly from Cleveland and Detroit to Superior
City, stopping at all intermediate points on Lake Superior
The line will be composed of the
IRON CITY Capt. J. E. Turxer.
MANHATTAN " C. Ripley.
(New Boat) " John Spalding.
The " Iron City" is a new boat, built last season, and is
one of the fastest boats on the Lake. The " Manhattan" has
undergone a thorough repair, and is a sound, staunch boat in
every particular. The 7iew boat, now being built expressly for
the trade, with all the modern improvements for Freight and
Passengers. These boats are fitted up expressly for Freight
and Passengers. Every attention will be given to the comfort
of Passengers, and the prompt delivery of Freight consigned to
their care.
^^* For Freight or Passage, apply to
HANNA. CtARRETSON & CO., Cleveland.
J. G. HUSSEY, Cleveland.
G. 0. WILLIAMS & CO., Detroit.
WM. P. SPAULDING, Saut Ste Marie.
J. P. PENDELL, Marquette.
P. M. EVERETT,
WM. P. RALEY, Copper Harbor.
S. LEOPOLD & CO.. Eagle Harbor.
PITTSBURGH & BOSTON MINING CO., Eagle River.
CARSON & CLOSE, Ontonagon.
E. M. LIVERMORE,
J. AUSTRIAN, La Pointe.
C. C. CHILD, Bayfield.
H. BOBBINS, Superior
ADVERTISEMENTS.
GALENA, DUNLEITH, AND MINNESOTA
PACKET C(3MPANY.
ORRIN SMITH, President, Galena, 111.
J. P. FARLEY, Vice President, Dubuque.
GEO. C. BLISH, Secretary, Galena.
MO INNING AND KVENLNG LINE TO ST. PAUL,
AND A DAILY LINE
The Boats of this Company will make regular trips between GALENA,
DUBUQUE, DUNLEITH, AND ST. PAUL, connecting at Dunleith with
the trains of the ILLINOIS CENTKAL EAILEOAD from the East and
South, going up and returning— stopping at all intermediate points, and
remaining sufficiently long for passengers to VISIT THE FALLS OF ST.
ANTHONY.
The following Boats comprise the line between Galena, Dubuque, Dun-
leith, and St. Paul :
NOETHEEN LIGHT Capt. Preston Lodwick.
GEEY EAGLE " D. S. Harris.
NOETHEEN BELLE " J. Y. Hurd.
KEY CITY " J. "WoRDEN.
WAE EAGLE " A.T.Kingman.
GALENA " W, H. Latjghton.
CITY BELLE " Kennedy Lodwick.
GOLDEN EEA " John Scott.
GEANITE STATE " W. H. Gabbeet.
GOLDEN STATE " S.E.Harlow.
ALHAMBEA " E. McGuiee,
All first-class Steamers, commanded by the most skillful and gentle-
manly officers, and are fitted up with a A'iew to the safety and comfort of
Passengers.
i^ Being UNITED STATES MAIL BOATS, their punctuality can
be relied upon.
this company will also run the
FANNY H AEEIS Capt. E. Andrews.
KATE CASSELL "
Between Galena and Eock Island, making a Dailv Line, connecting at
Eock Island with the CHICAGO AND EOCK ISLAND EAILEOAD,
and the ST. LOUIS, KEOKUK, -AND EOCK ISLAND LINE OF FIEST-
CLASS STExYMEES. and at Ful^n City with the trains of the CHICAGO,
FULTON, AND IOWA EAILEOAD, and at Galena with the boats of the
GAI^ENA, DUBUQUE, DUNLEITH, AND ST. PAUL LINE.
J. F. HILLS, FreigM Agent, Dunleith, 111.
?6
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