Full text of "U.S. one, Maine to Florida"

U. S. One 6 '

Maine to Florida

COMPILED BY THE

Federal Writers' Project of trie
Works Progress Administration.

SPONSORED BY THE

U. S. #7 Highway Association

Where do the fishermen gather jor the
annual run of alewives in the Nonesuch
River? . . . Where in Maryland is Henry
Clay said to have written the Missouri Com-
promise? . . . Where did Caroline Miller
collect material jor LAMB IN His BOSOM?
. . . What are beemartin gourds used jor?
. . . What is Kossuth Cake? When and
where was it first made? . . .

These questions suggest the startling vari-
ety of information to be found in U. S.
One: Maine to Florida. This, the first of
the Highway Tour books of the American
Guide Series compiled by the Federal
Writers' Project, is a new and exciting kind
of guide. It not only gives the tourist in a
hurry all he needs to know about the route,
but takes time out to tell things about the
country and places along U. S. #1 that only
natives know things that strangers might
have to spend weeks or months in a place
to find out. A unique feature is the list of
descriptions of local dishes that the traveler
should not miss.

Route One is one of the country's most
important highways. It runs through 13 At-
lantic seaboard states, carrying millions of
tourists annually. Each one of them will find
something important and interesting in this
indispensable guide.

MODERN AGE BOOKS, Inc.

155 East 44th Street New York

95c

AMERICAN GUIDE SERIES

U. S. One

MAINE to FLORIDA

Compiled and written by the Federal Writers' Project
of the Works Progress Administration

WITH 30 PHOTOGRAPHS

SPONSORED BY THE U. S. NO. I HIGHWAY ASSOCIATION

and published by
MODERN AGE BOOKS, ING. NEW YORK

PUBLISHED BY MODERN AGE BOOKS, INC.
[ BMG UOPWA, I 8 ]

All rights in this book are reserved, and it may not be
reproduced in whole or in part without written permis-
sion from the holder of these rights. For information
address the publishers.

Composed and printed in the United Stales of America by Union Labor

AT THE RUMFORD PRESS, CONCORD, NEW HAMPSHIRE

Typography by Robert Josephy

FOREWORD

U. S. ONE is a publication of the Federal Writers' Project of the
Works Progress Administration. Under this project, organized to
give useful work to unemployed writers, an ambitious and pioneering
task has been undertaken a written description of the most impor-
tant sections of the United States. The Federal Writers' publications
are of many types. This volume is part of the American Guide Series
of regional, State and local guidebooks, and second in a series of
interstate route guides. The entire series of guides, when completed,
will highlight the history, resources and points of interest in an area
of more than three million square miles. Although collated, re-
checked and edited in the central office in Washington, the materials
for the book were collected in the States and the book was written
by the state workers on the Federal Writers' Project. To insure its
accuracy authorities have checked statements of fact, and to give it all
possible scope many public 'spirited persons have given their services
freely. They share with us the hope that those who use this volume
will through it gain a better knowledge and greater understanding
of America and American life.

The Federal Writers' Project, directed by Henry G. Alsberg, is
administered by Ellen S. Woodward, WPA Assistant Administrator.

Administrator

iii

CONTENTS

Foreword iii

Notes on Use of Book ix

Introduction xi

Special Foods from Maine to Florida xvii

MAINE 1

Section 1. Calais to Ellsworth

Section 2. Ellsworth to Belfast 15

Section 3. Belfast to Brunswick 20

Section 4. Brunswick to New Hampshire Line 33

NEW HAMPSHIRE

Section 5. Maine Line to Massachusetts Line 47

MASSACHUSETTS

Section 6. New Hampshire Line to Rhode Island Line 55

RHODE ISLAND

Section 7. Massachusetts Line to Connecticut Line 65

CONNECTICUT

Section 8. Rhode Island Line to New Haven 89

Section 9. New Haven to New York Line 105

NEW YORK

Section 10. Connecticut Line to New Jersey Line 114

NEW JERSEY

Section 11. New York Line to Pennsylvania Line 124

PENNSYLVANIA

Section 12. New Jersey Line to Maryland Line 135

MARYLAND

Section 13. Pennsylvania Line to Baltimore 151

Section 14. Baltimore to Washington 168

CONTENTS

DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA 1 84

VIRGINIA

Section 15. Washington to Richmond 185

Section 16. Richmond to North Carolina Line 202

NORTH CAROLINA

Section 17. Virginia Line to Raleigh 210

Section 18. Raleigh to South Carolina Line 220

SOUTH CAROLINA

Section 19. North Carolina Line to Columbia 231

Section 20. Columbia to Georgia Line 235

GEORGIA

Section 21. South Carolina Line to Florida Line 240

FLORIDA

Section 22. Georgia Line to Jacksonville 252

Section 23. Jacksonville to New Smyrna 255

Section 24. New Smyrna to Miami 264

Section 25. Miami to Key West 282

MAINE

Side Route 1. Perry to Eastport 296

Side Route 2. Whiting to Lubec 299

VIRGINIA

Side Route 3. Richmond to Westover 301

GEORGIA

Side Route 4. Folkston to Okefenokee Swamp 305

Annual Events 311

Map of US 1

ILLUSTRATIONS

Eastport, Maine Highton

Fort Knox, Maine Highton

Shiloh, Maine

"Wedding Cake House," Maine

New Hampshire Coast Highton

Ironworks House, Saugus, Mass.

Providence Harbor, R. I. Highton

Hannah Robinson House, Narragan-
sett, R. I.

Congregational Church, Old Lyme,
Conn.

New Haven Green, Conn. Highton

Hutchinson River Parkway, Saxon
Woods, N. Y.

Bush Homestead, Port Chester, N. Y.

George Washington Bridge, New
York City

Stretch of US 1,N.J.

Bayonne Bridge, N. J.

State House, Trenton, N. J. Highton

City Hall, Philadelphia, Pa. Highton

Brandy wine Baptist Church, Pa. Highton

Jerusalem Mills, Md. Shriver

House at Greenbelt, Md. Rothstein

State Capitol, Raleigh, N. C.

State House, Columbia, S. C.

Presbyterian Church, Camden, S. C.

Turpentine Distillery, Ga.

Following page
xxviii

xxviii
32
32
48
48
48

96
96

112
' 112

112
112

128
128
160
160
192
192
224
224
240
240

ILLUSTRATIONS

Following page

Old Slave Market, Louisville, Ga. 240

Southern Georgia Plains Highton 240

On a Florida Beach Miami News Service 256

Biscayne Bay, Miami, Fla. Miami News Service 256

Gates at Westover, Va. Va. Cons. & Dev. Com. 272

Okefenokee Swamp, Ga. 272

NOTE: The illustrations referred to on pages 47, 121,
138, 167, 184, and 188 have been omitted

NOTES ON USE OF BOOK

THIS is a mile-by-mile description of US 1 and most of the short routes branch'
ing from it. Descriptions of the more important side and cross routes and large
cities have been omitted for lack of space; readers are referred to the State guide
books of the American Guide Series for this material. The description of the
main route, written north to south, is of course valid in the reverse direction. For
the convenience of those entering the route at midway points the description of
US 7 has been broken into short sections, cumulative mileage being started
afresh at the beginning of each. Mileages on the side routes are also cumulative,
being counted from the junctions with the main route. Those using this guide
book on the road are reminded that cumulative mileages depend on the manner in
which a car is driven; if curves are rounded on the inside, if many other cars are
passed, if the road is left even briefly for stops at filling stations, if an alternate
to the indicated route is used in going through a city or town, total mileages will
differ from those given here.

Travelers are advised to read in advance the descriptions of sections they ex-
pect to travel and, to mark the points of interest they particularly wish to view.

Great effort has been expended to make this book as accurate as possible, but
it is realized that no volume covering such a wide range of material, some of it
inadequately documented, can be free of mistakes; if those who find errors will
report them to the Federal Writers' Project in Washington, corrections will
gladly be made in future editions.

KATHARINE A. KELLOCK

Tours Editor

INTRODUCTION

THE HISTORY OF US 1, which runs from the Canadian Boundary
of Maine to southern Florida, reflects the history of the Atlantic Sea-
board States. North of Baltimore the route approximates the Old
Post Road, first official intercolonial highway of the country connect-
ing the leading cities of all the thirteen Colonies but Delaware. The
cities of this northern section maintained their primacy as settlement
spread inland. South of Baltimore, however, the early commercial
and cultural centers along the coast gradually lost leadership to cities
that developed inland along the geologic fall line; the main north-
and-south highway connecting the States veered inland with the
shift of power. It is significant that when Federal highway numbering
began in 1925 this old route became US 1. It remains as it was in
Colonial and early Federal days the chief line of communication
between the centers of the Atlantic Seaboard States.

With increasing congestion of metropolitan areas, US 1 has in
many places been rerouted to bypass the centers of the cities it for-
merly traversed. It still, however, runs through country intimately
bound up with important events. In Maine the route runs close to the
sites of the first two settlements attempted in New England; in Florida
it passes through St. Augustine, the oldest settlement in the present
United States. Many of the New England towns through which it
runs were "little hornets' nests" during the Revolutionary War. Over
a part of the route Paul Revere in 1773 spurred his horse on his dash
to Philadelphia with news of the Boston Tea Party. Fort Washington
in New York City is where three thousand Americans surrendered to
General Howe in 1776, completing the abandonment of the city.
Across the river in New Jersey the route passes the site of old Fort
Lee, from which Washington watched the attack and surrender of his
Fort Washington garrison. Lafayette and his troops in 1781 hurried
along this road to oppose the British invasion of Richmond.

This highway was likewise closely bound up with the Civil War. In
Pennsylvania US 1 traverses the territory in which first rose the op-
position to the institution of slavery that was to culminate in the bit-
terest internal struggle of the nation. The highway crosses the Mason-
Dixon line, which marked the division between the free and slave
States in this war. In Virginia it runs close to the bloody battlefield
from which in 1864 Grant sent the words that became the slogan of

xii U. S. ONE

the final days of the Civil War: "I intend to fight it out on this line if
it takes all summer." South of Fredericksburg is a hundred-mile
stretch of land that bore the brunt of the four-year drive of the Fed-
eral armies to capture the Confederate capital; the route here trav-
erses an area that has seen more bloodshed than has any other on
the North American Continent.

In Maine the highway runs close to the house prepared for the re-
ception of Marie Antoinette if her friends should rescue her; in
Massachusetts, to the house in which lived the Scottish prisoners cap-
tured by Cromwell at the Battle of Dunbar and indentured for seven
years to the Saugus iron works; in Virginia, to the site of the home of
Margaret Brent, who before 1634 had demanded "voyce & vote
allso"; in North Carolina, to the place where lived for a time the
lovely Flora MacDonald of Scottish history; in the same State, to the
house in which the Governor of North Carolina made his famous
complaint to the Governor of South Carolina: "It's a damned long
time between drinks"; in Georgia, to an area that is an untamed
wilderness.

The chronicle of US 1 is directly related to the history of transpor-
tation in America. In the early seventeenth century the colonists
blazed trails or made use of the Pequot Path, the Potomac Path, and
other Indian traces along the general line of the present route to
establish an artery of communication between isolated settlements.
According to Madam Knight, who made the trip between Boston
and New York on horseback in 1704, "the Rodes all along this way
were very bad. Incumbered with Rocks and mountainos passages,
which were very disagreeable to my tried carcass. In going over a
Bridge, under which the River Run very swift, my hors stumbled and
very narrowly 'scaped falling over into the water." A "cannoo" in
which she crossed the Thames River was so unstable that she kept her
"eyes stedy, not daring so much as to lodg' my tongue a hair's
breadth more on one side of my mouth than tother, nor so much as
think of Lott's wife, for a wry thought would have upset our whery."

Travel south of the Potomac was even more difficult. Several fer-
ries from Virginia to the Maryland shore were early established along
the Potomac as short-cuts to Baltimore and Philadelphia. Diaries and
travel books written by those who used the route through Virginia in
the days when it was known as the King's Highway record many
near-disastrous adventures on it. Even at the end of the eighteenth

INTRODUCTION xiii

century Dr. Coke, an Englishman, nearly perished in fording Acco-
tink Creek during a freshet; John Marshall spoke feelingly of miring
his horse; and Thomas Jefferson bemoaned the fact that the best
speed he could make was three miles an hour.

The development and expansion of the Colonies in the eighteenth
century created commercial transportation needs, and various types
of vehicles came upon the scene. The first common carrier service in
America was established under a franchise granted by the Governor
of New Jersey, over a part of what was to become US 1, with the use
of a crude sort of cart for carrying freight. About 1725 the stage
wagon, of English origin, appeared in the Colonies. Until 1870,
when the first transcontinental railroad was completed, the modi-
fied stagecoach remained the chief transport agency in America,
though the conditions of land travel were far from uniform. The Old
Post Road between Boston and New York ran through New London,
Newport, and Providence; stagecoach fare was ten dollars. Regular
passenger service between New York and Philadelphia, largely by
boat, was inaugurated in 1 732 ; the trip required five days, though by
the end of the century the time had been reduced to a day and a half.
During the stagecoach era, when passengers were for a time charged
according to their weight, competition between rival stages reached
such a fantastic peak that in Massachusetts passengers were carried
free ,by one stage line, until the alert rival company offered not only
free passage but dinner as well. Ownership of taverns and stage-
coaches was frequently combined. The sound of the coachman's horn
became familiar throughout the countryside not only serving ad-
vance notice to would-be passengers, but also by the number of toots
indicating to the landlord how many passengers planned to eat at his
inn.

The appearance of the first wheeled vehicles brought about the
transformation of tote-paths and pack-train routes into wagon roads;
even then a "middling good road" was one in which the mud did not
come up over the traveler's boot tops. The introduction of stages
necessitated improvement of the dirt roads, which were maintained
by the various communities. Some of the turnpike companies at-
tempted to lay permanent stone surfaces, financing and building
them according to English precedent; the corporations charged tolls
not only for the cost and maintenance of the roads but also for the
profit of stockholders. Part of the Old Post Road near Greenwich,

xiv U. S. ONE

Connecticut, was built by the third turnpike company chart-
ered in the United States, and within a few years many other sections
of the route were improved in the same way. But the turnpikes proved
unprofitable, particularly after the advent of the railroad, most of the
roads soon reverting to public control, though the last toll gate on
US 1 was not removed until little more than a decade ago.

Roads south of Washington were slow to develop. In 1 804 Thomas
Moore, the Irish poet, while traveling in Virginia, wrote home:
"Such a road I have come and in such a conveyance. The mail takes
twelve passengers which generally consist of squalling children . . .
and stinking republicans smoking cigars." During the War of 1812
communication by means of sailing packets, which had formerly
united the New England States and the southern seaboard, was al-
most entirely cut off. For a time the only commercial intercourse
possible was by means of trains of Conestoga wagons, which departed
daily from the North with commodities. This long interruption of
water transportation stimulated the development of movement by
land between the two sections, despite the mire, difficult fords, and
other obstacles that drew the curses of travelers, and increased the
use of the stagecoach and the improvement of roads.

After the war the coastal packets never fully recovered their trade.
Turnpikes and plank roads were built between the fall-line cities as
an inland north-and-south route, which became increasingly more
popular than the post route nearer the coast.

The coming of the railroad led to the disappearance of the stage-
coach and thus marked the end of one of the most adventurous
aspects of early American life. US 1 connects points at which the ear-
liest railroad experiments were made. In 1805 Thomas Leiper of
Philadelphia constructed the first "rail road" with horse-drawn cars
that hauled stone from his quarry to the river landing nearly a mile
away. Twenty-five years later the first section of the Baltimore &
Ohio Railroad was opened between Baltimore and Ellicott Mills,
fourteen miles away. At a number of points US 1 bore the shock of
the railroad advance. Stages were unable to compete with the su-
perior steam-powered rivals, and the route fell into general disuse for
half a century.

By the end of the nineteenth century a need for better and more
extensive roads had developed in the thickly populated northeastern
States. In 1890 New Jersey passed the first State highway law;

INTRODUCTION xv

Massachusetts, New York, and other States followed suit. But it was
the extensive development of motor transportation that inaugurated
a new period in the history of the route. State roadbuilding aid had
been extended to counties through which the principal highways
passed. Eventually the Federal Government began to interest itself,
and the Federal Aid Act of 1916 led to active participation in the
financing and construction of roads in all States. A condition of the
Act was the creation of State highway departments to cooperate in
establishing uniform standards for building roads partly financed by
the Government. Five of the States through which US 1 passes were
among the first seven to establish such departments, and to benefit
from the more scientific engineering methods prescribed.

Though US 1 runs through many attractive areas, its roadside for
long sections, as on other express highways of the country, is depress-
ingly ugly, being characterized by hideous shacks, enormous signs,
dumps, and raw cuts. A group of far-sighted businessmen who profit
by the traffic on US 1 has organized a committee to remedy this con-
dition, but it is unlikely that any real progress will be made until the
States take control of the situation, because indifference or lack of
cooperation on the part of a few can nullify the efforts of the many, or
can force them into screaming competition. Today there are more
than three million miles of roads and highways in the United States,
used by some twenty-six million motor vehicles. What can be done
toward beautifying U. S. highways is briefly though admirably illus-
trated by the Mount Vernon Memorial Highway, a parkway that
serves as an alternate to US 1 for about twenty miles south of Wash-
ington. In some States, notably in Connecticut, advances have been
made in the control of roadside advertising and in roadway beauti-
fication; Virginia clubwomen have persuaded a number of national
manufacturers to cease billboard advertising in the State.

SPECIAL FOODS FROM MAINE TO FLORIDA

While traveling speed and comfort have reached heights un-
dreamed of a century ago, meals available to travelers have declined
steadily in quality because the American is no longer the gourmet he
once was. Nowhere are the democratic processes more evident than
in the food-catering business; the restaurant keeper is up for reelec-
tion three times a day and must continually respond to the will of the
majority if he is to avoid bankruptcy. If his constituents demand ela-
borate dining room furnishings and pantalets on the chop-bones
rather than high-priced cuts of meat, if they prefer quick service in
place of cooked-to-order dishes, or if they order a limited range of
foods and ignore new ones, the restaurant keeper must fill the
demands.

America has native foodstuffs in variety and of qualities unsur-
passed in any other country, and American colonists early devised a
large number of savory dishes. Delegates to the first Continental Con-
gress were offered meals Lucullus would not have scorned. Even the
austere John Adams, deeply engrossed in the affairs of the Colonies,
found time to comment in detail on them. Up until the middle of the
nineteenth century no account of an entertainment or meeting was
complete without some mention of the menu.

There are many reasons for the decline in food standards. The
sedentary occupations of city-dwellers have lessened the keenness of
their appetites, and the tempo of modern life has left little time for
them to test the quality of individual dishes, and even less time to
wait for the preparation of special orders. More important in the de-
cline has been the domestic revolution. Women have seldom had as
great an interest in food as men have had, but when housekeeping
was the only career open to them and compliments on satisfying
meals were the chief rewards for service, they spent much of their
time in shopping for choice foodstuffs, mixing, beating, paring, boil-
ing, and baking. When new careers were opened to women and they
were no longer dependent on cooking for their living, they and the
manufacturers united to make the preparation of meals a short
process. Today a pre-cooked dinner, from soup to nuts, can be
bought and placed on the table in half an hour. The difference be-
tween a dinner created by mass-production processes and one pre-
pared at home is as great as the difference between a ready-made

xvii

xviii U. S. ONE

suit and one tailored to order, but an eating public gradually accus-
tomed to the ready-made meal has lost appreciation of the finer
product.

While the fine old American dishes have in many places disap-
peared from restaurant menus because of the lack of demand for
them, there are still restaurant keepers here and there who cater to
the discriminating minority. For the benefit of those interested in the
food specialties of the areas through which US 1 runs, the following
lists have been compiled. Some of the dishes are offered in restaurants
along the route, occasionally prepared according to the best tradi-
tions, more often in debased forms; others, relics of a more leisurely
way of life, are found only in private homes. Fortunately, the art of
preparation has not been completely lost, and food purveyors will be
quick to respond to a demand for their revival.

MAINE

APPLE FRITTERS: sweet milk, eggs, sugar, and salt, with slices of apple
stirred into the batter; dropped into hot fat and fried until brown. Served
with sugar and cream.

APPLE SLUMP: cored and sliced apples, seasoned with sugar and cinnamon.
Dough is dropped on in separate spoonfuls. Baked and served with butter
sauce.

OLD-FASHIONED PAN DOWDY: alternating layers of sugar, molasses, cinna-
mon, salt pork, and sliced apples, topped with thin crust. Baked in slow oven
and served with thin cream.

STEAMED SUET PUDDING: flour, milk, molasses, sugar, seasoning, spices,
suet, raisins, citron, currants, and almonds. Steamed and served with soft
sauce.

BAKED INDIAN PUDDING: scalded milk, corn meal, and molasses, cooked
until thick; sugar, egg, butter, and spices are added, and the mixture is
baked. Served either hot or cold with whipped cream or hard sauce.

WOODS-STYLE PLANKED GAME FISH: fish is placed, skin side in, on live
hardwood tree from which bark is stripped; salt pork or bacon strips are
pegged just above fish for basting; cooked until brown with fire built two
feet from tree. Served with drawn butter.

WOODS-STYLE BAKED GAME FISH: dressed fish is covered with an inch of
wet clay and baked overnight in hot ashes of campfire; when clay is broken
open, the fish meat comes out steaming. Served with butter.

1743 POLOE: fowl, rice, onion, and seasoning stewed together and served
hot.

RED FLANNEL HASH: cooked beets, potatoes, carrots, turnips, and left-over
corned beef or spare ribs, chopped, seasoned, and pan fried.

SOUSED CLAMS: freshly shucked clams stewed in vinegar. Served either hot
or cold.

CLAM BAKE: clams, lobsters, crabs, green corn, sweet potatoes, and eggs
cooked in rockweed on ledges heated by outdoor fire.

BOILED PIES: cider applesauce mixed with fritter batter and fried in deep
fat.

EGGS CANADIAN: eggs scrambled with maple syrup.

ROAST VENISON: leg or saddle of venison thoroughly larded with pork,
basted with claret while baking; served with gravy made from pan drippings,
also with currant, barberry, or wild plum jelly.

NEW HAMPSHIRE

BLANC MANGE: sea moss (picked up along the ocean beaches), milk, salt,
and vanilla cooked until thick.

xix

xx U. S. ONE

LOBSTER ROLL: roll filled with lobster, lettuce, and salad dressing.
PEPPER STEAK SANDWICHES: small steak and pepper relish filling.
FRIED CLAMS: dipped in batter of bread crumbs and fried in deep fat.
FISH AND CLAM CHOWDER: made with milk and no vegetables.
CODFISH BALLS: codfish mixed with potatoes and fried.
CRANBERRY TURNOVERS: biscuit dough fried in deep fat, then filled with
cranberry sauce.

MASSACHUSETTS

BOSTON BAKED BEANS: pea or kidney beans, salt pork, black molasses,
sugar, and dry mustard, baked six to twelve hours.

BOSTON BROWN BREAD: yellow cornmeal, rye meal, soda, salt, molasses,
and milk steamed for several hours.

NEW ENGLAND CHOWDER: clams, potatoes, onion, pork, and milk.

SUCCOTASH: corn stewed with green beans.

BAKED INDIAN PUDDING: cornmeal, molasses, sugar, egg, butter, milk, salt,
ginger, and cinnamon baked in slow oven.

PARKER HOUSE ROLLS: flour, milk, salt, sugar, butter, and yeast; dough cut
into circles, each of which is folded. These originated in the old Parker
House, one of the famous hotels of Boston.

RHODE ISLAND

JOHNNY CAKE: white corn meal, well scalded, sugar, salt, milk, fried on a
griddle.

CLAM CAKES: chopped clams, milk, flour, egg, and seasoning fried brown
in deep lard.

CLAM CHOWDER: chopped clams, milk, butter, diced pork or bacon, fried
sliced onion, seasoning, thickened with flour and served over soda or oyster
crackers.

WHITPOT PUDDING: Indian meal, molasses, milk, and salt baked one hour.
Served cool.

BROWN BREAD: yellow or white corn meal, milk, molasses, soda, flour, and
salt steamed for three hours in crock.

INDIAN APPLE PUDDING: white meal, cut apples, sugar, salt, hot skimmed
milk, and molasses baked for one hour; cold milk is then added and baking
is continued four hours more.

OLD-FASHIONED MOLASSES COOKIES: molasses, granulated sugar, eggs,
lard, and saleratus dissolved in sour milk or water.

CLAM BAKE: clams in shells, fish, sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes, onions,
and sweet corn, separated by layers of rockweed, steamed half an hour over
hot stones in barrel or trench.

NEW YORK ; xxi

CONNECTICUT

BROILED LOBSTER: broiled over live coals; served with butter sauce.

SHORE DINNER: all available seafoods (clams, fish, lobsters, oysters, crabs)
prepared in various ways.

CLAM BAKES: clams steamed on hot stones beneath a seaweed blanket.

SQUASH PIE: open face; made with baked squash (usually Hubbard).

MINCE PIE: double crust; home-made mincemeat moistened with cider.

COWSLIP OR DANDELION GREENS: picked before ready to bloom; cooked
slowly with salt pork. Dandelion greens have been a standard "spring tonic"
for generations, folk-medicine having recognized the signs of a marked
vitamin-A deficiency without knowing anything about vitamins. The de-
ficiency occurs less frequently today because green vegetables are available
in winter.

BAKING POWDER BISCUITS: the Yankee "quick biscuit" is made only on
individual recipes.

CLAM CHOWDER: hard clam stew made without tomatoes; tastes better
the second day.

PUMPKIN PIE: open face, made with small, sugar pumpkins and smooth,
flaky crust crinkled on the edge.

BAKED WOODCHUCK: special delicacy, particularly in early autumn when
Johnny Chuck has rounded out by feeding on sweet clover.

ROAST RACCOON: available only after a hunt for the little washing bear.

RHUBARB PIE: either open face or double crust. Served with venison or
turkey.

POVERTY RELISH: chopped cabbage, salt, and a dash of vinegar.

BAKED SPARE RIBS: served cold or hot with brown gravy.

NEW ENGLAND BOILED DINNER: corned beef and cabbage.

NEW YORK

OYSTER STEW: oysters steamed only until edges curl; served in own liquid
mixed with milk heated below the boiling point; salt, pepper and butter
added before serving.

SOFT-SHELL CLAMS: powdered lightly with flour and fried in hot bacon
fat. Never dipped in batter before frying.

CAMP FIRE SWEET POTATOES: sweet potatoes mashed with egg, topped
with marshmallows, and browned in oven.

BLUSHING BUNNY: cheese, egg and tomato puree, made as in Welsh Rare-
bit, served on crackers or toast.

POST ROAD PUDDING: sliced sponge cake sprinkled with sherry in which
apricots and prunes have been placed; covered with a mixture of beaten
eggs, sugar, milk, and vanilla, thickened over slow fire. Served cold with
whipped cream, decorated with glaced cherries.

xxii U. S. ONE

UPSIDE DOWN CAKE: bottom of iron skillet is covered with melted butter,
tl\en with brown sugar and pieces of fruit such as pineapples, pears, peaches,
apricots, and finally with cake batter. Baked in moderate oven. Served up-
side down with whipped cream.

BROILED T-BoNE STEAK: broiled close to flame; after first searing on each
side it is basted with melted butter well peppered and salted.

NEW JERSEY

SUCCOTASH: corn and lima beans stewed together, a dish adopted from the
Indians.

BEACH PLUM JAM: plums that grow wild on Sandy Hook; equal quantities
of fruit and sugar.

NEW JERSEY CLAM CHOWDER: chopped clams, onions, carrots, potatoes;
seasoned with thyme and a small amount of salt pork.

BULLY CLAM CHOWDER: large juicy clams, ground ripe tomatoes, green
peppers, onions, parsley, spices, salt, and pepper.

CAPE MAY CLAM CHOWDER: clams drained and chopped fine, diced
potatoes, onions, and lean salt pork; simmered for an hour after potatoes are
soft.

' SNAPPER SOUP: ground snapper, boiled slowly in salt water; crab meat,
green peppers, thyme, parsley, small cubes of Jersey red-skin potatoes, garlic,'
salt, and red pepper.

SNAPPER STEW: snapper cut in small cubes cooked slowly; hard-boiled egg
yolk, butter, cream, salt, nutmeg, and paprika are added. Served on toast.

Lowlands of south Jersey abound with snapping turtles, popularly known
as snappers. It is a difficult job to get at the meat. The snapper is tickled on
the nose with a stout stick. When he grabs it, the stick is pulled until he has
fully unfolded his long neck. Then his head is chopped off behind the ears,
after which he relaxes. A sharp knife is then inserted between the interstices
in the side bridges that tie the lower and upper shells.

PLANKED SHAD: whole roe or buck shad split down back and placed on a
hickory or white pine plank slightly larger than the fish; the plank is heated
to the charring point, then propped upright before fire of hot coals.

PICKLED EELS AND MUSSELS: soaked in brine 48 hours, with spices and
vinegar, served with lemon and chopped parsley.

THE LARGEST HOT DOG IN THE WORLD: a New Jersey invention.

PENNSYLVANIA

The "Pennsylvania Dutch" tradition of "seven sweets and seven sours"
on the table at each meal is still evident in eastern Pennsylvania restaurants;

MARYLAND xxiii

in no other place are so many kinds of jelly and pickles routinely placed on
the table along with the salt, pepper, sugar and catsup.

KARTUFFLE GLACE: boiled potatoes put through meat grinder, and added
to flour, eggs, and melted butter; formed into balls the size of large marbles.

LENTIL SOUP: lentils with beef or pork and often potatoes.

FAGGOTS: pork pluck, consisting of the liver, heart, and lungs of a pig,
chopped up and baked.

FROIS OR WELSH PANCAKES: giant pancakes sprinkled with currants and
sugar, stacked high and cut across in quarters. Served piping hot with jelly.

SOUSE: pigs' feet; eaten cold or hot with vinegar.

SCHNITZ UN KNEPP: dried apples and dumplings cooked with or without
a ham shoulder.

PORK FRITTERS: slices of pork tenderloin dipped in corn meal batter and
fried.

APPLE BUTTER: sweet apples and sweet cider boiled into a rich paste, then
cooled.

PHILADELPHIA SCRAPPLE: corn meal and ground pork, boiled and allowed
to cool; it is then sliced and fried.

PHILADELPHIA PEPPER POT: white honeycomb tripe, veal, potatoes, onion,
peppers, seasonings, and dumplings.

SAUERKRAUT AND DUMPLINGS: dumplings covered over with sauerkraut.

PIGS' KNUCKLES WITH SAUERKRAUT AND DUMPLINGS: dumplings made of
flour and melted butter; pig's knuckles added and covered with sauerkraut.

SHOO-FLY: crumb pie made with molasses and sprinkled with sugar and
cinnamon.

MARYLAND

MARYLAND BISCUITS: stiff dough beaten with a hatchet and baked in small
hard cakes pricked with a fork.

MARYLAND FRIED CHICKEN: young chicken cut in pieces, dipped in light
batter, floured, fried in deep fat. Served with cream gravy and waffles or
with corn fritters and bacon.

TIPSY PARSON: loaf of sponge cake stuck full of blanched almonds and
saturated with sherry. Served with boiled custard, topped with whipped
cream.

EGGNOG: yolks and whites of eggs beaten separately, with sugar, brandy,
milk, and rich cream. Served particularly during the holidays.

SOFT CRABS: cleaned by removing sand bag, dead men and eyes; dipped
in batter and cracker crumbs and fried in deep fat.

CREAMED HOMINY: soaked overnight, simmered for six hours, and creamed
with butter, salt, and milk.

LADY BALTIMORE CAKE: white layer cake with filling of soft icing and
chopped fruits and nuts.

xxiv U. S. ONE

PLANKED SHAD: boned, baked on hickory or other hardwood plank, and
served on plank with trimmings of lemon and potato chips.

SALLY LUNN: unsweetened cake dough, raised with yeast; baked brown in
deep dish.

STUFFED HAM: parboiled ham cut in even slices, alternated with chopped
greens and spring onions; sewed in clean white cloth and boiled. When
sliced, it reveals stripes of pink and green. Served particularly at Easter.

BRAISED MUSKRAT: boiled until tender, cut small, and baked with thick
brown crust. Known to the trade as "marsh rabbit."

SWEET POTATO SOUTHERN: boiled Maryland sweet potatoes, mashed,
mixed with beaten egg, cinnamon, cream, and brown sugar, topped with
marshmallows, and baked in casserole.

KOSSUTH CAKE: a rich cake served with chocolate and whipped cream;
by a Baltimore baker and first served at a reception given to Louis Kossuth,
the Hungarian patriot, in the winter of 1851-52.

DIAMOND-BACK TERRAPIN: boiled, skinned, and cut fine, blended with
butter and sherry.

At hotels individual portions range from $3.00 to $5.00. There was a time
when terrapin were so plentiful that indentures stipulated that the servant
should not be fed the food oftener than twice a week. H. L. Mencken pro-
nounces terrapin the noblest of all victuals but warns against its desecration
by the addition of sauces or condiments. Some Maryland gourmets decry
the use of sherry as a flavoring but drink sherry (or Madeira) while eating it.

VIRGINIA

CORN PONE: yellow corn meal, water, salt, and shortening, baked.

CORN DODGER: meal, water, salt, and shortening, fried.

ASH CAKE: corn bread cooked in ashes near the coals of an open fireplace.

CRACKLING BREAD: corn bread with crisp bits of fat.

SPOON AND BATTER BREADS: thin mixtures of corn meal, eggs, milk, and
shortening, baked.

BRUNSWICK STEW: squirrel, rabbit (the old recipes began "First catch your
hare") or chicken, tomatoes, onions, okra, carrots, celery, cabbage, potatoes,
butter beans, bacon, red pepper, corn, and salt. Originated in Brunswick
County, Virginia; hence the name.

TURNIP GREENS AND COLLARDS: usually cooked with hog jowl.

FRIED HERRING: rolled in corn meal and fried till crisp; a breakfast dish.

HERRING CAKES: herring flakes mixed with eggs, potatoes, flour, or corn
meal.

FRIED APPLE PIE: sliced apples mixed with sugar and spices and placed in
a half moon of short pastry; fried in deep fat.

SMITHFIELD HAM: may or may not be peanut-fed; cured by months of ex-
posure to the smoke of hardwoods. Soaked overnight and simmered half an

SOUTH CAROLINA xxv

hour for every pound of ham. Slashed, prepared with a paste made of brown
sugar and sherry, dotted with cloves, and covered with cracker crumbs.
Baked and served cold; sliced very thin.

NORTH CAROLINA

CHICKEN BRUNSWICK STEW: chicken, lima beans, corn, and tomatoes.

BARBECUED CHICKEN: while roasting, basted with sauce made of butter,
lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, red pepper, and other seasoning.

BEATEN BISCUITS: made from flour, lard, salt, and sweet milk, beaten for
half an hour, preferably on a marble slab; baked in a hot oven, and served
cold.

SWEET POTATO BISCUITS: boiled mashed sweet potatoes added to regular
buttermilk biscuit dough.

BAKED HAM: country cured from peanut-fed hogs; baked with a wine
sauce.

SUCCOTASH: corn and lima or string beans; okra and tomatoes often added.

PEACH AND OTHER SHORTCAKES: made with a short unsweetened biscuit
dough.

TIPSY CAKE: sponge cake, blanched almonds, and syllabub flavored with
brandy, in layers, the whole moistened with scuppernong or Concord wine.

SALLY WHITE CAKE: pound cake batter, sherry, citron, coconut, blanched
almonds, rose water, and mace; sometimes moistened with peach brandy.

SWEET PICKLED PEACHES: peaches cooked whole in a thick spiced syrup.

BRANDIED PEACHES: heavily sugared peaches fermented in a stone crock
that is sometimes buried for a time.

WINE JELLY: jelly flavored with home-made scuppernong, blackberry, or
Concord wine. Served with whipped cream.

SOUTH CAROLINA

SCRAPPLE: corn meal cooked in pork broth to consistency of thick mush,
added to tender pieces of pork, seasoned with salt, pepper, and onion juice.
When cold and firm, the moisture is sliced and browned in a hot skillet.

PERSIMMON PUDDING: fresh fruit, egg whites, sugar, milk, and corn starch,
baked in a crust.

SWEET POTATOES: potatoes boiled, sliced, and baked in a butter and sugar
syrup.

SWEET POTATO BISCUITS: boiled mashed potatoes added to biscuit dough.

SWEET POTATO PONE: grated raw potatoes mixed with sugar, molasses,
milk, and ginger, then baked.

SWEET POTATO PUDDING: parboiled potatoes grated, mixed with butter,
sugar, powdered cinnamon, lemon juice, and eggs, then baked.

xxvi U. S. ONE

JELLY PIE: blackberry or scuppernong grape jelly, butter, sugar, and eggs,
baked in a crust.

CAROLINA OPOSSUM: meat cut in small pieces, soaked in salted water,
stewed, and seasoned with lemon juice and currant jelly.

CAROLINA OPOSSUM AND SWEET POTATOES: opossum boiled whole, sur-
rounded with baked yellow sweet potatoes, and basted with grease in which
possum was boiled; baked until brown.

DEVILED BAKED HAM: soaked 18 hours in vinegar, sherry, and mustard;
boiled in this sauce, then baked in quick oven.

FISH STEW: fresh-water fish stewed in large quantity of water seasoned
with fat-back bacon, onions, tomato catsup, Worcestershire sauce.

HOMINY WAFFLES: cooked hominy, flour, milk, and melted butter.

CRACKLING CORNBREAD: meal, salt, boiling water, cracklings (crisp bits of
pork left after lard rendering), molded into small oblong cakes and baked
until brown.

GEORGIA

'PossoM AND 'TATERS: opossum, parboiled in salt water; highly seasoned
and baked; served with sweet potatoes.

SOUSE MEAT: hog's head, ears, and feet stewed, mashed, seasoned, pressed,
and sliced when cold.

TURNIP GREENS: fresh and tender turnip tops, boiled with salt pork or
smoked bacon.

CORN PONE: stiff dough of meal, water, and salt, baked in oblong pones.

SORGHUM PUDDING: pudding made with sorghum syrup and ginger, baked
in a loaf, and sliced.

LEATHER BREECHES: dried green snap beans, soaked overnight and boiled
with salt bacon.

BARBECUE: pork, beef, lamb, or chicken, turned frequently and basted
with a sauce of vinegar, pepper, salt, and butter.

BRUNSWICK STEW: chopped beef, pork, tomatoes, corn, onion, peppers,
and high seasonings.

FRIED PIES: pastry filled with dried or fresh fruit and fried in hot fat.

BOILED PEANUTS: Spanish peanuts in shell boiled in salt water until soft.

FLORIDA

WAMPUS OR HUSH PUPPIES: corn meal scalded in milk, mixed with egg,
baking powder, and onion, and cooked in the grease of frying fish. In early
Florida days when fish were fried in large pans out of doors, the savory odor
caused the family's pack of hounds to whine and yelp with hunger. As a
means of quieting the dogs, the cook would hastily scald corn meal, pat it
into cakes without salt or shortening, and cook it in the grease of frying fish.

FLORIDA xxvii

When done, it was thrown to the dogs, after which silence prevailed; hence
the name, hush puppies.

SWAMP SALAD: the raw bud of a palmetto tree (which has the taste of a
green chestnut) served with salad dressing.

SWAMP CABBAGE: the sliced bud of a palmetto tree boiled with salt pork
until tender.

COMPTIE: the powdered root of a wild plant in south Florida; used as flour
for making cakes or bread.

RATTLESNAKE SNACKS: meat of skinned snake cut into thin slices, salted,
and smoked over hickory. Served as hors-d'oeuvres.

RATTLESNAKE ENTREE: meat boiled and served with supreme sauce.

FROMAJARDIS: ring-shaped baked cheese cakes with cinnamon; a cross is
cut in rim of cake.

SEA TURTLE: sliced into steaks and fried.

FLORIDA GOPHER: sliced into steaks and fried over a low fire. (In Florida a
gopher is a land turtle.)

GUAVA JELLY: made from ripe fruit and prepared as other jellies.

STONE CRAB: boiled in salted water until claws are salmon pink; meat is
extracted and dipped in melted butter.

COQUINA COCKTAIL: chilled coquina broth, to which lemon juice and
Tabasco are added; mixture churned in a cocktail shaker and served im-
mediately. Coquina is an ocean shellfish about the size of a coffee bean.

CRAWFISH ENCHILADO: green and red peppers added to meat of crawfish
and fried in olive oil.

ARROZ CON POLLO: rice colored and flavored with saffron, then boiled in
pot with chicken.

NOTE

In the above list a few dishes appear in more than one State. Succotash, for
example, is made of corn with any kind of fresh beans in one State; in a
second it is made of corn with lima beans only; and in a third of corn with
beans, okra and tomatoes. It will be observed that most of the dishes are
made of foods native to America; the best dishes of every land are those
developed by native cooks from local products. Few American cooks are en-
tirely successful in following French recipes and few French cooks can cook a
typical American meal. A blighting influence on American cooking has been
the attempt to impose French menus on the American people without an
understanding of French cooking methods and the use of French ingredients.

iASTPORT, MAINE

FORT KNOX, MAINE

MAINE

Calais Ellsworth Bangor Belfast Brunswick Portland
N.H. Line, 341.4m. US 1.

Bangor & Aroostook R.R. parallels route between Bangor and Searsport; Maine
Central R.R. between Calais, Bangor, and Bucksport and between Rock-
land and Portland; and Boston & Maine R.R. between Portland and Ports-
mouth.

Hard-surfaced roadbed, three lanes wide between Portland and Portsmouth.
Accommodations principally in cities.

US 1 in Maine runs close to the coast from one end of the State to
the other. It runs through resort areas, rolling and rocky farmlands,
and along the banks of broad rivers; it crosses high hills locally
called mountains and blueberry plains. It connects the two ends
of the 2,500-mile coast line, which are but 225 miles apart by air line.
The southern part of the route is more frequented, but the whole of
the broken and jagged coast has a picturesque charm that makes it a
favorite with summer travelers. South of Maine, land and sea have
few rigid boundaries; the waves encroach and retreat, the land is
washed away and built up. But on the Maine shore they meet
abruptly; that old devil sea at times comes dashing in as though it had
been gathering force halfway around the earth to break the stubborn,
granite headlands; it attacks with a roar, retreats, and returns to
attack again.

There are two coasts of Maine. The coast known to most visitors
has spruce-tipped hills and hard beaches dappled with the red,
orange, green, blue, and white raiment of visitors, blue-green waters
broken by tilting sails and the wakes of speeding motorboats, and a
brilliant blue sky. The inhabitants of this land work night and day
running hotels, boarding houses, tourist camps, and lunch stands,
piloting fishing and sightseeing boats, trying in a brief season to earn
the money for house repairs, heavy shoes and overcoats, medicines,
school books, and other 12-month needs.

The second coast of Maine is for four or five months muffled in
snow; travel is at times difficult and most hotels and many of the
rooms in homes are closed. But this Maine has its own charm. The
rural inhabitants, even though striving to add to their limited in-
comes, have time to relax and they accept the comparatively few
visitors as members of their families, telling them long stories of

2 U. S. ONE

grandfathers and uncles who never returned from the sea, of the
great-aunts who heard voices, and other tales characteristic of a
country that part of the year has almost pioneer isolation. There are
other rewards for those who visit this coast out of season. The
chowder and baked beans, made in family quantities and eaten after
strenuous climbs over snowy hills, have a finer flavor than those of
summer; the headlands, snow-crowned, take on an icy glaze that
sharpens their strange silhouettes; and the sea in acrobatic assaults
causes the very rocks to tremble. But the glory of this Maine is its
sky, unreal saffron after the gray light that comes before the dawn,
blue as Persian tiles for a brief time at midday, and an unearthly
pale green streaked with rose in the late afternoon, turning the snow
pale heliotrope with purple shadows.

Section 7. Calais to Ellsworth, 123.9 m.

US 1 between Calais and Ellsworth passes through the old hunting
grounds of the Passamaquoddy Indians, which still provide good sport
in season. Broad blueberry plains stretch out to the W., and numer-
ous rivers and streams along the route provide excellent fishing.

CALAIS (pron. Kal' is), m. (82 alt., 5,470 pop.), the "interna-
tional city" of Maine, is the only city in the State on the Canadian
Border. It is a port of entry and many of its citizens came from the
Canadian Provinces. The city spreads out on a hilly terrain along the
western bank of the St. Croix River, directly opposite St. Stephen,
N.B. The mile-long main street, a wide thoroughfare lined with fine
old elm trees, runs from the end of the International Bridge to the
St. Croix Country Club at the southern end of the city. The business
district is at the northern end, close to the river; from the bridge are
visible the docks that once played an important part in the city's
industrial history. Around the business district are quiet streets with
attractive houses surrounded by trees, broad lawns, and well-
trimmed shrubbery. Handsome churches and modern schools add to
the air of prosperity. The municipal affairs of Calais and St. Stephen
are allied to the extent that the fire engines of the two communities
clang back and forth across the International Bridge to answer
alarms in what to each community is technically a foreign land. The
Calais water supply comes from St. Stephen, being piped across the
river. United States and Canadian currencies are accepted in both
cities.

MAINE 3

The first settlers, who arrived in 1779, were attracted to Calais by
the wealth of timber, the fertile soil, and the abundance of fish and
game.

Calais early became an important lumbering center. The launch-
ing in 1801 of the Liberty, the first vessel built in the community,
marked the beginning of a profitable industry that lasted till the end
of the era of tall ships. In 1809 the Massachusetts Legislature named
the settlement for the French port of Calais, as a compliment to
France because of the aid rendered to the struggling Colonies during
the Revolution. After 1820 the primitive backwoods settlement be-
gan to expand rapidly. Roads and bridges were built; churches and
homes sprang up along the highways. In 1850, with a population of
4,749, it was incorporated as a city.

The MASON HOUSE (private), at the point (R) where Main St. turns
toward the customhouse, was the home of Noah Smith, Jr. (180068).
Smith, paternal grandfather of the writer, Kate Douglas Wiggin, is
said to have been one of the last people who had official business with
President Lincoln before his assassination; at that time he received
the President's signature to a pardon granted to a young Calais
soldier who had been convicted of treason.

RED BEACH, 8.9 m. (90 alt.; Ward 9, City of Calais), takes its
name from the color of the granite outcrop along the shore. The vil-
lage lies along the main highway in a pleasant wooded area from
which the wide island-dotted St. Croix is visible.

Opposite Red Beach, in the St. Croix River, is DOCKET ISLAND (40 alt.),
which is reached by rowboat.

In 1603 Pierre du Guast, the Sieur de Monts, received the trading concession
for Acadia, which, in the grand manner of the times, was defined as a territory
extending from Cape Breton Island to a point well below the present New York
City. In the following spring he set sail with his lieutenant, Samuel de Champlain,
and four score colonists, including a Huguenot minister and a Catholic priest,
landing on June 26, 1604, on this island, which he called St. Croix, and on which
he expected to establish a trading post and settlement. So sketchy was knowledge
of the New World at the time, that the settlers brought with them part of the
timber used in the erection of their buildings. Before winter arrived the island
held a storehouse, dining hall, kitchen, barracks, a blacksmith shop, and
carefully laid out gardens. An unusually severe winter and scurvy wrought such
discouragement that in the spring of 1605 de Monts and Champlain sailed ofFS.
to find a more suitable place for the colony; in August they decided to move it to
the spot that is now Annapolis Royal, in Nova Scotia. Dochet Island was not en-
tirely abandoned, however; the French used it for a garrison at intervals for
some years.

4 U. S. ONE

This early settlement played an important part in the adjustment of the
boundary question after the Revolutionary War; both the United States and
Great Britain acknowledged the River St. Croix as the point of departure in
drawing the line, but Britain disputed the American claim as to what river
bore this name. Discovery of Ghamplain's map and subsequent examination of
the ruins of the early settlement decided the matter; had the British won their
point eastern Maine would probably now be Canadian territory.

ROBBINSTON, 12.4 m. (60 alt.; Robbinston Town, 582 pop.),
is a village whose main street parallels the St. Croix River (ferry
service to St. Andrews, N.B.). The smokestack of a sardine-canning
factory that burned down sometime in the past is a landmark here.
Fishing, supplemented by sardine canning, is the principal industry
of the town. In the spring when the herring are running, the fish
weirs offshore can be seen from the road.

At 18.4 m. is a granite boulder placed by the National Geographic
Society to mark the 45TH PARALLEL OF LATITUDE, which is
exactly midway between the Equator and the North Pole.

PERRY, 20.3 m. (40 alt.; Perry Town, 992 pop.), lies on a double
bend of US 1 where it crosses Boyden Stream. The houses are few
and scattered.

At Perry is the junction with State 190 (see Side Route 7).

PEMBROKE, 26.2 m. (80 alt.; Pembroke Town, 965 pop.), is a
village of pleasant homes along the bank of the Pennamaquam River.
While the principal industries are now the packing of blueberries and
sardines, the substantial, well-built houses recall the prosperity of the
wooden-hull era, when extensive shipbuilding activities were carried
on in the area.

The large, square, stone building of the OLD IRONWORKS here re-
sembles a fort. The plant was established in 1828 with machinery
brought from Wales. Much of the ore used came from bogs in the
vicinity.

At WEST PEMBROKE, 27.2 m. (50 alt., Pembroke Town),
which seems part of Pembroke village rather than a separate com-
munity, are a number of sturdy old homes. H. Styles Bridges, Gov-
ernor of New Hampshire (1935-1936) and U.S. Senator (1937- ),
was born here on September 9, 1896.

Right from West Pembroke on State 214, an improved gravel road, is MED-
DYBEMPS LAKE, 10 m., with excellent fishing (boats and canoes Jor hire) and a
good bathing beach.

This is one of the many hunting regions where the illegal practice of "deer

MAINE 5

jacking," less frequent today, was popular. The bright light of a hooded lantern
or of a flashlight fascinates the fleet-footed animal, making him a target for the
huntsman's bullet. When shot, the deer seldom drops immediately, but runs
sometimes for hours, the hunter in hot pursuit. This phase, known as "deer
running," develops fleet runners, particularly in deer-jacking expeditions when
the law is pursuing the hunters as swifdy as the hunters are pursuing the deer.
A story is told of a Washington County stripling who, left unwarned on sentry
duty at Cedar Creek, Va., when a retreat was ordered, found himself alone fac-
ing the advancing enemy. He made his solitary retreat from Cedar Creek with the
speed he had acquired in deer jacking in the Meddybemps region. He is said to
have reported at Harpers Ferry, W. Va., 19 miles from his post, in advance of
the dispatch bearer, who was on horseback.

DENNYSVILLE, 32.4 m. (30 alt.; Dennysville Town, 443 pop.),
took its name from Dennys River, which in turn was named for an
Indian chief whose hunting grounds were in this region. Swift Dennys
River parallels the main street, over which tall trees form an arch.

In 1786 the township land was granted to Gen. Benjamin Lincoln
of Hingham, Mass., who, at the surrender of Yorktown, was selected
to conduct the British to the spot where their arms were deposited.

There is a fine SALMON-FISHING POOL near the center of the village.

The LINCOLN HOME (private), half a mile N. of the center and facing
the river, was erected in 1787 by artisans from Hingham, Mass.,
under the direction of General Lincoln's son, Theodore. It is a two-
story yellow structure. Theodore, who occupied the house, had large
lumber interests and employed many Indians of the district. James
Audubon, the artist and naturalist, was a friend of Theodore's son,
Thomas, who assisted Audubon in making arrangements for an ex-
pedition to Labrador in 1833. Members of the Lincoln family still
own and occupy the house, which contains many of the early furnish-
ings, as well as old books and documents.

In the store of I. K. Kilby in the village is a COLLECTION OF INDIAN
RELICS (open) found in the neighborhood.

WHITING, 41.7 m. (60 alt.; Whiting Town, 327 pop.), a village
formerly called Orangetown, is in an area where extensive lumbering
operations are still carried on; the town is recognized by the large
piles of lumber near its center along the road. The route passes a
lumber mill on the Orange River, which has been dammed at this
point to provide water power.

In this area are long stretches of forests, broken occasionally by
small scrubby farms. In spite of the extensive lumbering operations

6 U. S. ONE

that have been carried on in what is now the State of Maine, the
forests have not been seriously depleted. The country is full of game.
Many rabbits are caught here and shipped to other parts of Maine,
as well as to other States, for stocking game preserves.

At the rear of a small white church (R) is the GRAVE OF COL.
JOHN CRANE, the first white settler. He was a member of the Boston
Tea Party, and during the Revolution commanded one of the bat-
teries whose fire diverted the attention of the British from the Ameri-
can forces in their capture of Dorchester Heights in March 1776.

At Whiting is the junction with State 189 (see Side Route 2).

INDIAN LAKE (fishing and boating facilities), 47.3 m. (R), lies
along the road, the blue of its waters enhanced by the dark green
foliage of the dense forest surrounding it.

At 50.9 m. (R) is the graveled entrance to the SUMMER SURVEYING
SCHOOL of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, on the shore of
Gardner Lake; the neighborhood provides a variety of surveying
problems.

EAST MAGHIAS, 54.3 m. (60 alt.; East Machias Town, 1,253
pop.), is bisected by the East Machias River, the residential area and
the business districts being on opposite sides of the stream.

On top of a hill across the river (L) is WASHINGTON ACADEMY. A
general interest in having a local school was shown as early as 1790-
1791, and a petition for help from the Government in the undertak-
ing was transmitted to the General Court of Massachusetts in that
year. The petition was granted and Township 11, since known as
Cutler, was given as an endowment for an academy, but it was not
until September 1823 that Washington Academy was opened.

In the LIBRARY (L), a brick building with two old millstones from
an early gristmill set strikingly in the front wall, one on either side
of the entrance, is a canvas showing a panorama of the community
in the prosperous lumbering and shipbuilding days.

At 55.9 m. is the junction with a local road.

Left on this road is MACHIASPORT, 4 m. (80 alt.; Machiasport Town, 825
pop.), a typical Maine coast village where lumber shipping is now the chief
activity.

When news of the battle of Lexington reached this part of Maine in early May
1775, Ichabod Jones, who had left Massachusetts because of the increasing
disturbance to business, caused in part by the Boston Port Bill, hastily left for
Boston. to secure his personal property. The Boston Port commander refused,
however, to allow him to take his boat out of the harbor except to return to

MAINE 7

Maine for lumber to be used in building barracks for the increasing number of
British soldiers. The armed schooner Margaretta was sent along as a convoy to
enforce the order. Meanwhile, public opinion in Machias had been inflamed and
Captain Moore of the Margaretta found a Liberty Pole in the little frontier coast
town and citizens incensed at the idea of providing supplies for the armies to be
used against them. Led by Benjamin Foster and the fiery Irishman, Jeremiah
O'Brien, the local citizens commandeered two boats, one of which, however, be-
came stranded; on June 12, 1775, they closed in on the Margaretta. In the fight
that followed the British officer was mortally wounded and his boat captured.
The following month the Machias men captured a British schooner from Nova
Scotia. The British sent Sir George Collier with the Ranger and three other boats
to punish the rebels; Collier routed the local force from the breastworks they had
hastily thrown up along the river and burned several buildings before his fleet
moved on. The capture of the Margaretta has been called the "first naval battle of
the Revolution"; the battle itself was not important but it provided the Revolu-
tionary leaders in Philadelphia with a talking point in urging the establishment
of a navy.

Machiasport was the terminus of the narrow-gage Machias- Whitneyville R.R.,
built in 1841 to carry lumber from Whitneyville to Machiasport for shipping,
and operated for 50 years by the Sullivan family of Whitneyville. One of the
locomotives used on this railroad is now at the Crosby Laboratory, University of
Maine, Orono.

From WRIGHT'S LOOKOUT, a bold rock at the top of Corn Hill, a few hundred
yards back from the main street, is a splendid view of the Machias headlands and
the western end of the Bay of Fundy.

At the southern end of the village, on the western bank of the Machias River,
is the State reservation holding the EARTHWORKS OF FORT MACHIAS, or Fort
O'Brien as it is locally called because it was erected in part through the activities
of the O'Briens. After the Collier raid Washington ordered a regiment of militia
recruited and sent to protect the settlement. In 1781 Fort Machias was made part
of the national defense. The British, however, did not return to the little town
until 1814, when they took the fort and burned the barracks. The place was
again fortified in 1863, during the Civil War, but was not attacked.

At CLARK'S POINT, 7 m. (L), are the so-called PICTURE ROCKS. Figures
somewhat resembling men, animals, and landscapes can be seen on a slanting
ledge below the high-water mark. Some authorities who have examined the
formations believe they are geologic, others that they are hieroglyphics.

MAGHIAS (Ind., bad little Jails), 58.8 m. (80 alt.; Machias Town,
1,853 pop.), seat of Washington Co., lies along the Machias River;
the town formerly included what is now the town of Machiasport
(see above). The gristmill in the center of the bridge across the river
looks down on the narrow gorge through which the waters tumble
and roar ceaselessly. From the bridge are seen the buildings of the
WASHINGTON STATE NORMAL SCHOOL on a high hill overlooking the
town.

8 U. S. ONE

After the destruction of the Plymouth Colony trading post at
Pentagoet by the French, the English in 1633 established under
command of Richard Vines, another post here, in a spot much closer
to the French headquarters; La Tour, French Governor of Acadia,
wiped it out almost at once. In 1675 Rhodes, the pirate, used the
site as a base for repairs and supplies; a few decades later another
pirate, Samuel Bellamy, came here for the same purpose, and, liking
the place and deciding that it offered him security, determined to
establish a permanent stronghold. Piracy was rampant along the
Atlantic seaboard at this time, partly because of English and Spanish
trade restrictions, designed to force colonists to buy from the mother
country alone; this created a good market for stolen goods in the
Colonies. Privateering served as excellent training for piracy, as
Cotton Mather warned in 1704 in one of his "hanging sermons,"
and many men who started out to prey on shipping for their govern-
ments soon decided to keep the booty for themselves. Bellamy, from
all reports, developed a Robin Hood philosophy on the matter; when
he had captured a ship he would harangue its crew and invite them
to join him, arguing that the men had as much right to rob as had the
shipowners, who were merely powerful bandits protected by law.

When Bellamy determined to settle on the site of the present
Machias, he erected breastworks and a crude fort before leaving for
another expedition with three objectives recruits, loot, and women.
He had left the mouth of the river and was plundering along the
Nova Scotian banks when, by mistake, he attacked a French naval
vessel. His vessel, the Whidaw, was almost captured before he man-
aged to escape. Sailing south, he had further bad luck; he captured
a New Bedford whaler, whose captain pretended to join him and
agreed to act as a navigator through the dangerous reefs and shoals.
The whaling captain did his part for a time and then deliberately
ran his ship aground on a sandbar near Eastham, Mass. The pirates,
following the lead of the whaler, went on the rocks, and Bellamy
and most of his crew drowned.

In 1763 the first permanent English colony was established by
settlers from Scarboro near Portland.

The Machias River has played an important part in the town's
development as a commercial lumber and shipbuilding center. One
of the few remaining "long lumber" log drives in Maine takes place
on the Machias River each spring. Logs are hauled over the snow

MAINE 9

to the landings, and when the ice goes out of the river they are
shoved into the fast-moving water, which hurtles them downstream.
When one of the numerous jams occurs, a daring river driver walks
out on it to pry loose the key log; if this does not succeed the jam is
blasted.

BURNHAM TAVERN, High and Free Sts. (open Sat. aft., June 7-Oct. 1;
adm. 10&, a plain two-story gambrel-roofed structure with the lower
section of the roof broken back to a vertical wall with five windows,
was built in 1770 by Joe Burnham. Beneath each of the four corner-
stones of the building the owner placed a box containing a slip of
paper inscribed with the words "hospitality," "cheer," "hope," and
"courage." Over the door hangs the original sign, which reads:
"Drink for the thirsty, food for the hungry, lodging for the weary,
and good keeping for horses." Beneath the roof the townspople
gathered to plan their movements against the British and to discuss
the exciting events of the day. Here Jeremiah O'Brien and his com-
rades devised the capture of the Margaretta (see above) .

In the O'Brien Cemetery here is the GRAVE OF CAPTAIN O'BRIEN.
Just beyond the cemetery is a marker indicating the site of his home.

Also on Elm St., half a mile from the center, is a small stream
called FOSTER'S RUBICON; the men of Machias met on its banks in
June 1775 to discuss the demands that they furnish lumber to be
sent back to Boston and used in building barracks for the British
troops. After a long debate, during which part of the townsmen
advocated compliance and others resistance, Benjamin Foster, a
church leader as well as a rebel, sprang across the stream, inviting
those who shared his views to follow him. The rebels went first, then
those who had been wavering, and finally those who had advocated
compliance; the settlement as a whole was committed to the
Revolution.

At Machias is the junction with State 1 A.

Right on State 1 A is WHITNEYVILLE, 4.5 m. (70 alt.; Whitneyville Town,
229 pop.), a small farming community on the western bank of the Machias River
that is the terminus of an annual spring log drive. A marker near the river indi-
cates the spot where the Margaretta was beached, after being towed up the river
following her capture, and concealed from the British by leafy boughs.

State 1A runs through wide blueberry plains and rejoins US 1 at Jonesboro.

JONESBORO, 66.3 m. (60 alt.; Jonesboro Town, 468 pop.), a
small Chandler River farming community, had a Revolutionary

io U. S. ONE

War heroine in the person of Hannah Weston, a descendant
of Hannah Dustin, who became famous in the Indian massacre at
Haverhill, Mass., in 1697. With a younger sister, Hannah Weston
carried 50 pounds of lead and powder, collected from neighbors,
through the woods from Jonesboro to Machias for use during the
Margaretta episode (see above) in June 1775. The GRAVE OF HANNAH
WESTON is near the highway on the Charles Fish farm at the northern
end of the village.

At 73.7 m. is a junction with State 187.

Left on State 1 87, which cuts through the deep stillness of the woods and runs
along the western shore of Englishman's Bay for several miles, presenting many
attractive scenes, is JONESPORT, 12.7 m. (40 alt.; Jonesport Town, 1,634
pop.). Although it derives considerable income from summer visitors, Jo nesport's
principal means of livelihood are fishing and sardine packing. Jonesport became
famous as the background of Phillip Lord's radio program, Sunday Night at Seth
Parker's. Island views, camp sites, fishing, and beaches are its resort attractions.

In the harbor is BEALS ISLAND, reached from Jonesport by ferry. Separated
from its larger but much less populous neighbor, Great Wass Island, by the
FLYING PLACE, a narrow strait, Beals Island affords views of surrounding islands
and curious sea-wrought rock formations. Play of surf is most spectacular on
stormy days in the Flying Place.

BEALS (40 alt.; Beals Town, 524 pop.) is a fishing community on Beals Island,
as well as a summer resort, where the popular sport is deep-sea fishing.

There is a faithful congregation of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day
Saints at Beals. In 1865 G. J. Adams, a Mormon missionary from Phila-
delphia, succeeded despite local opposition in recruiting followers here. Prevail-
ing upon many to sell their worldly goods, he organized the Palestine Emigration
Association, issuing a religious publication, The Sword of Truth and the Harbinger of
Peace. After arrangements had been made with the Turkish Government, through
the American consul, 175 members left on a 52-day voyage to Palestine in the
barkentine, Nellie Chapin, and settled near Jaffa. Beset by internal dissensions,
misunderstandings with the natives, and disease caused by poor sanitary condi-
tions, the colony was disbanded within a year and the survivors returned to the
United States.

BARNEY'S POINT, on the island, was named for Barney Beal, a son of Man waring
Beal, the first settler. The most colorful of the island legends are woven around
the bold exploits and feats of strength of "Tall Barney," who always wore a
butcher's coat and whose 6 ft. 7 in. of brawn earned him fame as "cock of the
walk" from Quoddy Head to Cape Elizabeth; it was said that when he sat in a
chair his hands touched the floor. Once while he was fishing off Black's Island,
armed sailors, objecting to his proximity to English territory, boarded his sloop,
intent on capture at gun point. Barney relieved the sailors of their guns, which he
promptly broke over his knee and tossed back into the British boat. When the
Canadian guards unwisely persisted in their intimidations, Barney twisted the
arm of one until he broke the bone. In Rockland, Barney was said to have felled a

MAINE n

horse with his fist, when a truckman drove too close to him. In a Portland saloon,
without argument or assistance, he proved to 15 men the folly of deriding a
"down-e aster."

PERIO'S POINT, near the Freeman West Beal Wharf, was named for Perio
Checkers, an Indian, who is the only man known to have scaled the perpendicular
side of the steep cliff that still challenges climbers at this point.

In the past, shipwrecks in this vicinity were frequent. Companies were formed
on the mainland to salvage boats and cargoes.

The GRAVE OF AUNT PEGGY BEAL, in the cemetery near the public square,
reminds natives of how Aunt Peggy exorcised the powers of a witch, a Mrs.
Thomas Hicks. Mrs. Hicks had the habit of borrowing from Aunt Peggy; if
Aunt Peggy refused to lend what Mrs. Hicks wanted, it either died or disap-
peared. The last thing refused was a sheep, which died the following day. A
Salem sailor, who claimed to know all about the handling of witches, told Aunt
Peggy to build a hot fire and to hold the sheep over it until it was scorched all
over. This was done. "Now," he said, "a boat will come over for something three
times, and you must refuse each time, even though the witch tells you where the
article is." It all came about as the sailor predicted, so the story goes, and the day
following the refusal of the third article, Mrs. Hicks was dead.

GREAT WASS ISLAND COAST GUARD STATION is notable for its equipment and
drills. The SEACOAST MISSION SHIP regularly visits the island lighthouse.

In this area US 1 continues through blueberry plains; the homes
show few evidences of prosperity, being weather-beaten and un-
painted.

COLUMBIA FALLS, 75 m. (60 alt.; Columbia Falls Town, 583
pop.), was once a thriving lumber and shipbuilding center. Today
the inhabitants depend on general farming and the blueberry indus-
try for a livelihood. The prosperity that the town once knew is
revealed by the many fine old homes in the vicinity.

The RUGGLES HOUSE (open), constructed in 1820 after a design by
Aaron Sherman of Duxbury, Mass., who planned a number of
homes in Washington County, was built for Judge Thomas
Ruggles, a wealthy lumber dealer. The house is notable for the
delicate detail of its exterior trim. The interior woodwork, executed
by an unknown English artisan, is unusually fine. In the drawing-
room are rope headings on the cornices of the fireplace, done with
great skill, exquisite carvings on the molding, and delicate indentures
on the chair rail of the wainscoting and on the frames and sills of
the wide-shuttered windows. The house is in the process of restora-
tion, and workmen have uncovered rich mahogany-inlaid panels.
Of particular interest is the swastika design, carved with a common
penknife, below the mantel in the dining room. It is said that the

12 U. S. ONE

villagers were so impressed by the delicacy of the work that they
believed the carver's knife was guided by the hand of an angel.

Arthur Train used the Ruggles house as the setting for his short
story, The House that Tutt Built.

The MAUDE BUCKNAM HOUSE, opposite the post office, a yellow
Gape-God style dwelling with a wing, was built about 1820. It is
notable for its woodwork.

The LIPPINCOTT HOUSE, opposite the Bucknam House, is a square
hip-roofed building with interesting interior details, including old-
fashioned rope moldings and many fireplaces.

At 76.8 m. is the junction with a dirt road, known locally as the
Jeff Davis Trail, which was cut in 1858 to enable members of the
U.S. Coast Survey to transport supplies and heavy instruments to
the top of Humpback, or Lead Mountain. Jefferson Davis, a close
friend of Alexander Bache, Superintendent of the Coast Survey, was
a guest at the survey camp during the summer when the trail was cut.

Right on this road is COLUMBIA, 1.5 m. (60 alt.; Columbia Town, 409
pop.), settled soon after the Revolutionary War.

The road continues in a northwesterly direction onto a 200-sq.-m. plateau,
where nearly 90 percent of the country's blueberries are raised. Small brooks
meander through acres of the low bushes, which in mid-June are covered with
inverted bell blossoms. Blueberry packing begins in August and lasts through
September. Men in large straw hats, women in sunbonnets, and barefoot children
work from dawn to sundown raking, winnowing, and boxing the berries to be
trucked to the canning factories.

The blueberry industry has grown up in the wake of lumbering; the plants
quickly cover the thin sandy soil after the trees are cut, and they need little culti-
vation. The land is burned over every third year to stimulate new growth. The
spruce in this area was removed in the first quarter of the 1 9th century to provide
masts and spars for ships built in the nearby yards. Blueberry plains are privately
owned but protected by the State. "Bootleg berries," those stolen by night pick-
ers, are not as common as they once were.

HARRINGTON, 79.8 m. (40 alt.; Harrington Town, 862 pop.),
was settled about 1765 and incorporated in 1797. Like many other
villages along the route, its air of comfort and prosperity depends
largely on the money derived from the summer tourist trade. Pleas-
ant Bay is a favorite spot for deep-sea fishing.

CHERRYFIELD, 86.1 m. (50 alt.; Cherryfield Town, 1,111
pop.), lies on both sides of the Narraguagus River. The Belgrade, full-
rigged bark that carried 56 local men around Cape Horn to Cali-
fornia in the days of the gold rush, was built in this formerly active

MAINE 13

shipbuilding community. Today lumbering and blueberry packing
are the chief industries of the town.

MILBRIDGE, 91.6 m. (20 alt.; Milbridge Town, 1,207 pop.),
lies at the mouth of the Narraguagus, its main street, which US 1
follows, paralleling the river. From the highway at the southern end
of the village there is a fine view of the offshore islands (boats and
guides for deep-sea fishing) . Lumbering, lobster fishing, and farming are
the main sources of livelihood. A knitting mill is also in operation.

A boat once frequently seen along the Maine coast and still
occasionally found in some of the fishing villages of Nova Scotia is
the pinky (Prov. Eng., small). These boats, pointed at both ends, have
wide gunwales rising to meet in a stern overhang. In 1 927 Howard L.
Chapelle, naval architect and author of The History of American
Sailing Ships, revived the building of this type of craft in the Mil-
bridge yard.

GOULDSBORO, 101.9 m. (80 alt.; Gouldsboro Town, 1,115
pop.), is principally a summer resort and small trading center for
the Grindstone Neck area. David Cobb made his home here from
1796 to 1808. During those years he was one of the most influential
citizens of Maine. In 1795 he was appointed agent of the great
Bingham estate (see below)', the following year he moved to Goulds-
boro, and in 1802 was sent to the Massachusetts Legislature to
represent eastern Maine.

SULLIVAN, 111.6 m. (60 alt.; Sullivan Town, 873 pop.), a
small hamlet, is the corporate center of a township whose many
summer homes are spread out along US 1 .

The STONE STORE (not open), in the center of the village, is a two-
story gabled building, constructed of heavy blocks of stone.

At 112.1 m. is a striking view of Mt. Desert Island and its hills.

HANCOCK, 114.8 m. (Hancock Town, 760 pop.), was settled in
1764 and incorporated in 1828. In 1890 the township had a popula-
tion of 1,190; the decrease has been gradual.

At 120.3 m. is a magnificent view of the Schoodic Hills and Cadil-
lac Mountain, also various other hills rising from and around French-
man's Bay.

The region through which US 1 passes here has small farms that
look fairly prosperous, and much wooded land.

ELLSWORTH, 123.9 m. (100 alt., 3,557 pop.), the seat and
the only city in Hancock Co., was settled in 1763. The community

i 4 U. S. ONE

has seen extensive lumbering operations, a period of shipbuilding,
and an industrial era brought about by the development of its water
power. A large part of the business district and many of the old
buildings were destroyed by fire in 1933, but the center has been
rebuilt. Today the town is a happy combination of gracious old
homes and attractive modern business buildings. An example of this
is the new CITY HALL, showing a Scandinavian influence and stand-
ing near the old white CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, which dominates
the business district from the E. side of State Street Hill. The latter,
built in 1812, has a portico with delicately fluted columns, and a
slender spire.

The sparkling Union River flows through the center of the city,
and from the bridge (L) 60-foot falls are visible.

The BLACK MANSION, on W. Main St. (open May 30-Nov. 1; adm.
50f), built about 1802, was the home of Col. John Black, land agent
for William Bingham, who owned very large tracts of land E. of the
Penobscot River. Colonel Black's predecessor in the agency was his
father-in-law, Col. David Cobb, an aide-de-camp of General Wash-
ington. The two-story brick house, an elegant structure in the tiny
frontier settlement, is of modified Georgian design, with one-story
wings that may have been added after the main structure was built.
An ornamental cornice and balustrade surround the low roof. The
main structure has no front entrance; four triple-hung, shuttered
windows open out on a low porch with five Ionic columns, that runs
the length of the main building and is surmounted with a balustrade.
A notable feature of the interior is the graceful curving staircase
rising from the spacious hall that divides the house and parallels its
front. Many of Colonel Black's possessions and those his wife in-
herited from her father are in the house; other articles have been
added since the house became public property in 1928. Among the
valued relics are a miniature of Washington by one of the Peales, a
rare volume of the Colonial laws of Massachusetts, and a high-backed
Dutch chair with a hinged seat that can be lengthened to form a
couch or bed.

The furnishings include fine Duncan Phyfe, Sheraton, and Chip-
pendale pieces, as well as Spode and Royal Dresden china.

The PUBLIC LIBRARY (open 2-5 p.m.), State St., once the Tisdale
house, built before 1 820, retains many of its original features, such
as arched doorways and deep fireplaces.

MAINE 15

Section 2. Ellsworth to Belfast, 61.3 m.

From Ellsworth US 1 cuts sharply NW. to Bangor, traversing
placid farmlands that contrast with the wooded hills; south of
Bangor the route follows the west bank of the Penobscot River,
running through scenic country to Belfast.

LUCERNE-IN-MAINE, 14.7 m. (440 alt.; Dedham Town, 279
pop.), is a resort on the shores of LAKE LUCERNE, drawing winter
sports enthusiasts as well as summer visitors. The CLUBHOUSE (L),
just off the highway, was the halfway house on the old Bangor-
Ellsworth stagecoach route; it has been much remodeled. Thick
woods nearly conceal (R) the huge log tourist lodge and tennis
courts and (L) a golf course, bridle paths, hiking trails, and a bathing
beach. This resort was carefully planned by the head of a lumbering
firm, who did not wish to see the natural beauty of the lakeshore and
hills spoiled.

At 14.9 m. is a beautiful view of Lake Lucerne.

EAST HOLDEN, 17.8 m. (100 alt., Holden Town), is at a cross-
roads where overnight cabins outnumber the handful of residences.

At 19.1 m. is HOLDEN (190 alt.; Holden Town, 543 pop.). The
TOWN HALL and GRANGE HALL (L) mark the corporate and social
center of the township. The National Grange of the Patrons of
Husbandry, of which the local lodges are members, was organized in
1867 by Oliver H. Kelley, an employee of the U. S. Department of
Agriculture who felt the need of a fraternal organization to unite the
farmers for social and educational purposes. The lodges became
politically important, serving as local forums; they are still very
active in Maine. Grange suppers and meetings are open to the
public and visitors who want to study the State are advised to
attend the meetings, which are always advertised. The suppers are
standardized and usually include baked beans, ham, cole slaw, pie,
and cake.

At 23.2 m. is a sweeping view across valleys and mountains.

BREWER, 25.8 m. (100 alt., 6,329 pop.), is a city somewhat over-
shadowed by Bangor, across the Penobscot River. It was named for
Col. John Brewer, who was one of the first settlers, as well as the first
postmaster. Once famous for the wooden ships built in its yards, the
city depends for its present prosperity on the activity of pulp and
paper mills.

i6 U. S. ONE

CHILLICOTE HOUSE, now an antique shop, corner of State and
N. Main Sts., is a conspicuous landmark standing at the crest of a
short hill that drops sharply to the E. approach of the Bangor-Brewer
bridge.

At 80 Chamberlain St. is the JOSHUA CHAMBERLAIN HOUSE (private).
General Chamberlain, noted for his gallantry during the Civil War,
received the Congressional Medal of Honor for his part in the defense
of Little Round Top at Gettysburg; as a further reward for his mili-
tary activity he was delegated to review and receive the arms and
colors of the Confederate Army at Appomattox in 1865. In spite of
repeated injuries received while in active service, he was able to
serve as Governor of the State (1867-1871) and as president of
Bowdoin College (1871-1883).

BANGOR, 26.5 m. (100 alt., 28,749 pop.), manufacturing city
(see MAINE GUIDE).

Points of Interest. Salmon Pool, Veazie House, Old City Hall, and others.

HAMPDEN, 31.5 m. (80 alt.; Hampden Town, 2,417 pop.), on
the banks of the Penobscot River, a suburban village flanked by
farms, was settled in 1767, two years before Bangor, and for a long
time rivaled that town in importance. During the War of 1812 the
British drove the out-numbered militia from the settlement.

Huge piles of pulp wood are seen in the Penobscot (L) as the route
passes through the outskirts of Bangor.

HAMPDEN HIGHLANDS, 32.7 m. (150 alt., Hampden Town),
has blue-green river vistas. In the latter part of May the numerous
orchards in the township and in Orrington across the Penobscot
blanket the countryside with translucent pink and white beauty and
send forth a delicate scent that permeates the whole area.

The DOROTHEA LYNDE Dix MEMORIAL PARK (L) is on the site of
the Isaac Hopkins farm, on which in 1 802 the prison and almshouse
reformer, for whom the park is named, was born. When Miss Dix
went to Boston as a young girl, she was so shocked by conditions in
public institutions that she began a campaign that carried her all
over the country and resulted in marked reforms.

WINTERPORT, 39.8 m. (80 alt.; Winterport Town, 1,437 pop.),
whose name was derived from its position at the head of winter
navigation on the Penobscot River, at one time had some importance
as a port and shipbuilding community. In the 1936 State election

MAINE 17

Winterport was the first and only town in Maine to use voting
machines.

At 40.4 m. (R) is the BLAISDELL HOUSE (not open), built in 1798,
a two-and-a-half-story yellow structure with a gable roof and two
dormer windows.

FRANKFORT, 42.5 m. (180 alt.; Frankfort Town, 468 pop.), a
village shaded by huge century-old elms, belies its history of indus-
trial prosperity. Log cabins first appeared here in 1756, and a
permanent settlement was made in 1760. Shipbuilding began early
and, by the time of the Revolution, Frankfort was important enough
to draw the attention of the British Navy. Many of the 33 ships
destroyed along the Penobscot in 1779 were tied up, or under con-
struction, in this port. The English bombarded the settlement in
1814, subsequently occupying it.

In the vicinity of Frankfort, the road, which is very hilly and
winding, affords many panoramas of the valley. Small farms cling
to the hillsides.

At 43.9 m. along both sides of the road are the buildings of the
MT. WALDO GRANITE CORPORATION (open); nearby are the deep
clefts from which countless tons of fine granite have been quarried.

The FLATS here bordering the river are among several points on
the Maine coast where Captain Kidd is said to have buried a part of
his treasure. A tinker who lived on the spot refused to allow searchers
on the property; after his death a number of attempts were made to
find the supposedly hidden jewels and gold. Legend has it that the
hunters were frightened away by mysterious noises from the earth;
no treasure has ever been found here.

MOUNT WALDO (1,062 alt.), highest of several small peaks in this
region, can be seen (R) at intervals. Mt. Waldo granite has been
used in many public buildings.

The granite ledges of MOSQUITO MOUNTAIN, 44.7 m., rise sharply

(R).

At 46.7 m. is PROSPECT (90 alt.; Prospect Town, 388 pop.).

Left from Prospect on State 174 is FORT KNOX (see illustration), 2.5 m., now a
State reservation. The site for this fort was selected during the days of the heated
boundary disputes with Great Britain, but work was not begun until 1846; the
fort was never entirely completed, though troops were trained here during the
Civil War. This massive structure was built of Mt. Waldo granite and commands
one of the most beautiful views on the Penobscot River.

i8 U. S. ONE

A short distance beyond Fort Knox is the western approach to the WALDO-
HANCOCK BRIDGE (toll 50$ on State 3.

STOCKTON SPRINGS, 51.2 m. (150 alt.; Stockton Springs
Town, 877 pop.), has become relatively prosperous because of its
fish canneries and fertilizer factories. In 1890 an attempt was made
to exploit the spring for which the town was named, but failed when
it was found that sediment settled in the bottles when the water was
ready to market.

At 55.1 m. (L) stands the HOME OF LINCOLN COLCORD, a writer
and the son of a sea captain; he was born off Cape Horn. His home,
for several generations the snug haven to which his adventurous
forebears retired at the end of their voyages, is beautifully situated
above the bay.

In this area US 1 passes many estates as well as farms that have
achieved prosperity by catering to the needs of their summer
neighbors.

SEARSPORT, 55.4 m. (50 alt.; Searsport Town, 1,414 pop.),
has a small, compact business district on its main street (US 1).
The rest of the village stretches along the highway, which affords
many vistas of Penobscot Bay. In the heyday of New England ship-
ping, Searsport was known as the home of expert seamen, and it has
been the birthplace of many United States naval officers. As a
terminus of the Bangor & Aroostook R.R., it ships much of the
annual potato crop of Aroostook Co.

In an old brick house that was built in the village during the days
of the town's prosperity is housed the PENOBSCOT MARINE MUSEUM,
containing an unusually fine collection of relics and papers con-
nected with the ships, shipowners, and captains of the days when the
Penobscot was one of the most important shipbuilding centers of
the Nation.

At 59.4 m. (R) is STEPHENSON TAVERN (private), a story-and-a-
half house of simple lines, built in 1800; there is a well sweep in the
front yard. The old pine sign, bearing a black horse and the name
Jerome Stephenson, is so weather-beaten that the painted horse and
lettering stand out a quarter of an inch.

On the northern outskirts of Belfast the route crosses Passagassa-
wakeag River on the BELFAST MEMORIAL BRIDGE, which is dedicated
to Waldo County's enlisted men of the World War. From a hill
beyond the bridge can be seen the dark red warehouses of Belfast's

MAINE 19

waterfront. From US 1 between this point and Belfast are a suc-
cession of views of the waters of the Penobscot and its islands.

BELFAST, 61.3 m. (160 alt., 4,993 pop.), a popular tourist cen-
ter and seat of Waldo Co., has parallel streets that follow a rolling
terrain, which rises in a majestic sweep from the banks of the Pas-
sagassawakeag. Its highest points command views of the island-
sprinkled waters of Penobscot Bay.

The town was named for Belfast, Ireland, by a group of Scotch-
Irish settlers who came to the place in 1770, after having tried set-
tlement at Londonderry, N.H. Belfast was harassed by the British
in 1779 and its settlers were driven away, but they successfully re-
established themselves five years later. The city has achieved pros-
perity by catering to the many summer residents and visitors.

Reminiscent of an earlier prosperity are the many fine old houses,
whose chief interest lies in their variation on the standard 19th
century architecture.

The JAMES P. WHITE HOUSE (private), 30 Church St., is a simple
white structure built in 1825. Fine old elms shade the broad lawn,
which is surrounded by a picket fence.

The CLAY HOUSE (private), 130 Main St., was built in 1825. It is
an attractive structure of the Greek Revival type with Doric columns.

The old JOHNSON HOUSE, 100 High St., set in beautiful grounds, is
a hip-roof structure with a lookout, built in 1812. The Corinthian
columns on the front and sides may be later additions. Its shutters
were the first used in Belfast.

The BEN FIELD HOUSE (private), 137 High St., is a large, square,
hip-roof structure with a den tiled cornice, built in 1807.

The old BLAISDELL HOUSE (private), a third of a mile S. of the
center on High St., on spacious grounds, has a portico with four
Ionic columns and an elaborately carved pediment.

1. Right from Belfast on Main St.; R. at 0.2 m. on Waldo Ave. to the
junction with Poor Mills Rd. at 1.4 m.; L. here to the old JOSEPH MILLER
TAVERN, 2.4 m. (R). It has the only salt-box roof left in Belfast, tiny panes in the
windows, and no eaves, a characteristic of early building in the vicinity.

2. Straight ahead from the center on High St. at 1.2 m. (R) is the OTIS
HOUSE (private), a one-and-a-half-story gable-end house on Nickerson Hill, over-
looking the river; it was built in 1800.

3. Visible from Belfast's waterfront, and lying about 6 miles offshore in Pe-
nobscot Bay, is ISLESBORO, a long, low, tree-clad island that can be reached
from Belfast.

20 U. S. ONE

Section 3. Belfast to Brunswick, 79.3 m.

Between Belfast and Brunswick US 1 follows the western edge of
Penobscot Bay, then gradually swings SW. to cross the Kennebec
River. The countryside is fairly open, with distant views of the ocean.
Houses belong chiefly to the 19th century, and there are few signs
of recent prosperity. The area around Camden is particularly beau-
tiful, the hills being covered with evergreens, though these grow
thinner toward the south.

At 1 m. (L) is the BELFAST CITY PARK with excellent camping and
trailer facilities.

At 7.6 m. is a junction with a gravel road.

Left on this road is NORTHPORT, 0.5 m. (140 alt.; Northport Town, 413
pop.), near Saturday Cove, an arm of Penobscot Bay; many delightful woodland
walks lead from the village to the shore.

CAMDEN, 18.3 m. (100 alt.; Camden Town, 3,606 pop.), one
of Maine's loveliest towns, lies "under the high mountains of the
Penobscot, against whose feet the sea doth beat," as Capt. John
Smith described the site. Champlain, who visited the Penobscot in
1605, named the Camden Hills the "mountains of Bedabedec" on
his map; so steeply do they rise from the blue waters of Penobscot
Bay that the magnificent yachts dropping anchor all summer long
in the harbor seem from a distance to ride in the heart of the business
district.

The town has developed rapidly as a small summer resort in
recent years, the estate valuation now being more than half that of
Bar Harbor. It has also become a winter sport center. The summer ^
residents have taken particular interest in the landscaping of the
town, a project that is stimulated by annual contests in which prizes
are awarded.

Behind the CAMDEN PUBLIC LIBRARY, Main St., is an AMPHI-
THEATER with a seating capacity of 1,500, landscaped with native
trees, shrubs, and plants.

The old CAMDEN OPERA HOUSE, corner Elm and Washington Sts.,
has been remodeled into a modern auditorium with elaborate
interior decorations. Mrs. Mary Louise Bok, daughter of the late
Cyrus H. K. Curtis, a summer resident for many years, has been a
leader in carrying out many municipal improvements. A notable
group of musicians, including Josef Hoffman, pianist, summer here.

MAINE 21

1. Right from Camden on Mechanic St., the southern section of State 137;
straight ahead (R) from State 137 at 1 m.; L. at 1.5 m., passing a lake at 3.4 m.;
L. at 3.5 m. and again at 3.7 m. to the CAMDEN BOWL, in which carnivals and
competitive sports events are held in summer and winter.

2. Right from Camden on Mountain St., which enters the northern section of
State 137, at 1 m. is the junction with a trail leading to the summit of MOUNT
BATTIE (800 alt.). From this height, occupied by cannon during the War of 1812,
are beautiful views of Penobscot Bay and the surrounding hills. An area of ap-
proximately 6,000 acres between Lake Megunticook and the seashore, including
part of Mt. Megunticook, Mt. Battie, and Bald Mountain, is being proposed for
park development.

ROCKPORT, 19.9 m. (100 alt.; Rockport Town, 1,651 pop.),
a town with a diminishing population, was set off from Camden in
1891. From the bridge at the S. end of the village is a remarkable
view of the harbor and the white lighthouse jutting out on the point.
Goose River forms a V-shaped waterfront that has been landscaped
by Mrs. Mary Louise Bok (see above). Unusually interesting are the
OLD LIME KILNS nearby.

SPITE HOUSE (L), on Deadman's Point, was moved in 1925 over
land and water from Phippsburg, 85 miles away, by Donald W.
Dodge of Philadelphia. James McCobb, a prominent Phippsburg
citizen of his time, built the so-called Minott House in Phippsburg
for his second wife. Some time after his third marriage, the elder
McGobb died while his son Thomas was at sea. The third Mrs.
McGobb, who had also been previously married, arranged a mar-
riage between her son by her first husband and her stepdaughter, the
sister of Thomas McCobb, thereby obtaining practical control of
one of the largest estates in the section. When Thomas McCobb
returned and learned of the marriage and its consequences, he
became incensed, declared he would build himself a mansion large
enough and sufficiently grand to overshadow the residence occupied
by his stepmother, and in 1806 built this beautiful structure which,
from the day of its completion, has borne its present name.

At 25 m. is the junction with Waldo Ave.

Left on Waldo Ave. to the ROCKLAND BREAKWATER, which extends from Jame-
son Point nearly a mile across the harbor entrance and makes an excellent point
from which to survey the city and environs. There is a LIGHTHOUSE at the end of
the breakwater.

ROCKLAND, 26.3 m. (40 alt., 9,075 pop.), separated from
Thomaston and incorporated in 1848 as East Thomaston, is a
trading center and shire town for Knox Co. The many summer

22 U. S. ONE

residents and visitors have been a good source of trade. The city
fronts on the fine harbor that the Indians called Catawamkeag (great
landing place) . Fishing, shipping, shipbuilding, and limestone quarry-
ing have been the chief industries of the past.

The BIRTHPLACE (1892) OF EDNA ST. VINCENT MILLAY, the poet,
is at 200 Broadway.

The COMMUNITY YACHT CLUB and PUBLIC LANDING, Main and
Pleasant Sts., have floats, docks, and clubhouses for visitors.

1. Left from Rockland on Main St. ; at 2 m. L. on a tarred road; at 2.1 m. L.
to large triangular RANGE BEACONS, 3.7 m. These open structures are used by
vessels of the U.S. Navy in sighting their positions on the measured trial course
off Rockland, which is marked by six buoys. New vessels and old ones that have
been reconditioned are sent here for tests of speed and engine efficiency.

OWL'S HEAD, 4.6 m. (40 alt.; Owl's Head Town, 574 pop.), a summer re-
sort, lies on the far end of a tree-sheltered cape. Visited by Champlain in 1605, it
was then called Bedabedec Point (Ind., cape of the waters). The town was the scene
of a bloody encounter in 1755 when Captain Cargyle, famous Indian fighter
employing Indian tactics, killed and scalped nine braves, receiving a bounty of
200 pounds sterling each. During the Revolution and the War of 1812, British
and American privateers were active in nearby waters.

Left from Owl's Head to the heavily wooded U.S. LIGHTHOUSE RESERVATION,
5.3 m. (L).

OWL'S HEAD LIGHT (open 9-11:30 a.m. all year; 1-5 p.m. July-Aug.; 1-3 p.m.
remainder of year), was built in 1826, during the administration of President John
Quincy Adams. The old white tower is only 26 ft. high; but because of its situa-
tion the light can be seen 16 miles at sea. In summer, yachts cruising in these
waters are welcomed by three strokes of a bell. Snowshoeing parties from Rock-
land visit the snow-clad headland in winter.

At 5.7 m. the road ends. From this point it is but a short walk to the shore,
where the red and yellow quartz-streaked face of the headland, worn smooth by
the pounding of the surf, rears itself nearly 100 ft. above sea level. Tall spruces,
their roots clinging tenaciously to the few inches of soil, crown the summit.

2. Left from Rockland, in Penobscot Bay and to the E. of it in the Atlantic
Ocean, are North Haven and Vinalhaven Islands, Deer Isle, and Isle au Haut, to
all of which there is steamship service from Rockland.

NORTH HAVEN (476 pop.), about 12 m. from Rockland, at the mouth of
Penobscot Bay, is a fashionable area with a number of summer estates. There is a
flying field here.

VINALHAVEN (1,843 pop.) is S. of North Haven, with which it is connected
by ferry. It also has many large summer homes. The town was settled in 1789
and when incorporated 1 4 years later was named for John Vinal of Boston. It
has a larger permanent population than North Haven because of its active granite
quarries, from which came the 51- to 55-foot monoliths of the Cathedral of St.
John the Divine in New York City.

DEER ISLE (1,226 pop.), on the eastern side of Penobscot Bay, is an hourglass-

MAINE 23

shaped area, about 12 miles in length. It has much charm but has received little
development, which is a satisfaction to those who cherish its primitive character.
Its permanent inhabitants are skilled boatmen, some of them having manned
yachts in the international races.

ISLE AU HAUT (89 pop.), presenting a headland to the Atlantic some miles
S. of Deer Isle, is the administrative headquarters of Isle au Haut Township,
which contains about a dozen smaller islands. It is chiefly visited by the more
hardy summer visitors. The nearby waters have been the scene of a number of
wrecks.

At 29.1 m. (L) is the LAWRENCE PORTLAND CEMENT Co. PLANT
(not open to visitors), one of the largest of its kind in New England.
The quarry is between the highway and the plant.

At 29.7 m. (L) is a junction with State 131. On a hill close to the
junction and entered from State 131 is MONTPELIER (open daily, 10
a.m.-6 p.m., June 1Nov. 7; adm. 50f), a recent reproduction of the
home built in 1795 by Gen. Henry Knox (see below). This large,
imposing two-story-and-basement structure has a low roof sur-
rounded by a balustrade and surmounted with a monitor that rises
between the four inside chimneys. The central third of the facade is
elliptical and ornamented by four engaged columns; the pedimented
doorway is reached by a stairway leading to a wide roofless piazza.
The 18 rooms of the house are furnished with old pieces, many of
them from the original structure; they also contain many relics of
the general and a portrait of him by Gilbert Stuart.

THOMASTON, 30.6 m. (100 alt.; Thomaston Town, 2,214
pop.), lying at the head of the long narrow fiord into which St.
George River drains, is a favorite port of call of yachtsmen. Its main
street has many attractive old homes with notable doorways. A
trading post stood here in 1630 and occupation of the site was fairly
continuous in spite of Indian attacks, though actual settlement did
not begin until more than a hundred years later. Real development
began after the Revolutionary War; Henry Knox, who had made a
name for himself at the Battle of Bunker Hill, who became a trusted
adviser of Washington, and who was Secretary of War both under
the Confederation and during Washington's first term as President,
had married a granddaughter of Samuel Waldo, proprietor of the
enormous Waldo Patent (see below) ; through purchase and marriage
he came into control of a large part of the patent and, at the close of
his cabinet career, came to live in Thomaston, which had been in-
corporated in 1777. Knox made many plans for the development of

24 U. S. ONE

his holdings, trying shipbuilding, brick making, lime burning, farm-
ing, lumbering, and many other industries, but, though an able
military man, he was a poor business man. His extensive hospitality
contributed to his failure to amass a fortune.

The community prospered, however, and was at one time active
in shipbuilding, reaching its peak of prosperity and population about
1 840, when its population was three times as large as it is today.

The plain frame CILLEY HOUSE (private), 25 Main St., was the
home of Jonathan Cilley, a Congressional Representative from
Maine when he was killed in a duel in February 1838 on the old
Bladensberg duelling ground, close to the District of Columbia Line.
Cilley had risen in Congress to denounce an article with a charge of
immorality against another Congressman, which had appeared in
an anonymous gossip column of a New York newspaper. He fastened
the blame for the article on a Virginian, was challenged to a duel
by William Graves, a Representative of Kentucky, and fell at the
third shot.

From Thomaston there is steamship service to other coastal points
as well as to Monhegan and other islands.

MAINE STATE PRISON (visiting hours Tues. and Fri., 2:30-4 p.m.),
31.1 m., on Limestone Hill and surrounded by high gray walls of
field stone, has accommodations for 300 prisoners. The first, and
possibly the only, military execution in Maine took place on this
site when Jeremiah Braun was hanged on the charge of having
guided a British raiding party that in 1780 captured Gen. Peleg
Wadsworth, a grandfather of Henry Wadsworth Longfellow.

The prison site was sold to the State in 1824 by William King,
Governor of Maine.

Capital punishment was abolished in Maine in 1876, reestablished
in 1883, and finally abolished in 1887 at the request of the Governor,
who said that it had not deterred crime.

At 31.6 m. is a junction with State 131.

Right on State 131 is the entrance (L) to the KNOX STATE ARBORETUM and the
ACADEMY OF ARTS AND SCIENCES, 1.1 m. (adm. free) . In the arboretum are speci-
men trees, shrubs, and wild flowers native to Maine. The museum, a two-story
brick building, contains a collection of Maine minerals, Red Paint Indian arti-
facts, two fine American bird collections, and a collection of sea shells and marine
life indigenous to Maine.

At 35.7 m. is a junction with State 1 37.

MAINE 25

Right on State 137 is WARREN, 1.3 m. (37 alt.; Warren Town, 1,429 pop.).
In 1864, after the recovery of Mrs. Mary Baker Eddy then Mrs. Patterson
from a serious illness under the guidance of P. P. Quimby of Portland, Me., she
came to this village with another Quimby pupil, who had become much attached
to her. While here she gave a number of public lectures, which she reported to the
Portland healer in a series of charming letters. The title of one lecture she wrote
was publicly advertised as P. P. Quimby' s Spiritual Science Healing Disease as
opposed to Deism or Rochester Rapping Spiritualism. Her work here is considered by
some as the beginning of her career as the founder of Christian Science.

At 42.5 m. is the junction with State 220.

Left on State 220 to WALDOBORO, 0.7 m. (120 alt. ; Waldoboro Town, 2,31 1
pop.), at the head of navigation on the Medomak River. It was named for Gen.
Samuel Waldo, proprietor of the Waldo Patent, which included this township
and many hundred thousand other acres. The settlers, who arrived in 1748, were
Germans who had received special encouragement from Governor Waldo. The
town at one time had considerable prestige as a shipbuilding center, the first
five-masted steamer, the Governor Ames, having been built here.

A seasonal local industry is the catching, packing, and shipping of alewives,
commonly called herring. The village also has a pearl button factory and derives
considerable income from the summer tourist trade. Many local boats are hired
for deep-sea fishing, the catch including cod, cusk, hake, and halibut. Fly-fishing
for mackerel and pollock is popular with visitors in this area. Occasionally gamey
striped bass and very large tunas are caught in nearby waters.

The GERMAN MEETING HOUSE (open for services once a year), on the west side of
the river, was built between 1770 and 1773. The 36- by 46-foot building has a
large entrance porch. Inside, a gallery overlooks a hand-made communion table
and contribution boxes. The pews are unpainted. A cabinet contains a collection
of old German books and mementos.

Nearby is the old GERMAN CEMETERY, with many unusual and interesting in-
scriptions on grave markers. One bears the following: "This town was settled in
1738 by Germans who immigrated to this place with the promise and expecta-
tion of finding a prosperous city, instead of which they found nothing but
wilderness."

FRIENDSHIP, 10.1 m. (90 alt.; Friendship Town, 742 pop.), a fishing village
of small neat homes, is at the end of a peninsula. Local travel here being generally
by boat, small floats or wharves appear at the ends of the side streets, which slope
sharply down to the shore. Pride in the building and care of small boats is tradi-
tional in Friendship, as evidenced by the large number of well-painted craft in
the bay.

In a small building on the grounds of Dr. William H. Hahn (L) is an extensive
COLLECTION OF GLASSWARE (seen at convenience of owner), consisting of about a
thousand pieces, most of which are early American lamps. Dr. Hahn also has a
collection of ruby glassware and some old Roman and Turkish metal lamps.

Salt-water fishing, from both sail and motor boats, is the chief pastime in the
vicinity of Friendship, the coastal waters offering many kinds of fish. Casting
for mackerel has become popular, but heavy catches are often made by trolling

2 6 U. S. ONE

in the early morning and in the evening; these fish are as lively and agile as trout.
Gunners, excellent pan fish 12 to 15 inches in length and up to 1^ pounds in
weight, are usually caught on the incoming tides, with sharp hooks on straight
poles baited with worms, clams, or periwinkles. Pollock, gamey as salmon, are
caught with a fly rod, by trolling bright flies in a swift current, or with herring at-
tached to a colored spinner. The silver hake, which when fresh is one of the most
satisfying foods for a hungry fisherman, can be caught from small boats near the
shore.

As at other points on the Maine coast the skipper who takes parties out for
deep-sea fishing is generally an entertaining fellow who knows the fish runs, as
well as many fish stories; he furnishes tackle and good advice, and cooks a tasty
chowder.

Clambakes, another popular diversion, can be arranged at reasonable rates, if
assistance is wanted. A driftwood fire, built between granite boulders and reduced
to embers, is used to steam lobsters, clams, and crabs in pails of seaweed; potatoes
and corn, also cooked in seaweed, complete the menu.

GARRISON ISLAND (20 alt., Friendship Town), off the extreme southern
end of the peninsula but connected with the mainland at low tide, is the site of a
fort that was built about 1755.

NOBLEBORO, 48 m. (170 alt.; Nobleboro Town, 599 pop.), was
part of the Pemaquid Patent and named, when incorporated in
1788, for Arthur Noble, one of the heirs of the proprietor.

Between a white house and a barn at 50.9 m. is the junction with
a dirt road.

Right on this road, which runs through a pasture to SHELL HEAPS, 0.5 m.,
which have been explored, leaving the strata exposed. Between the bottom layer
and the second, which is approximately 6 ft. thick, is a layer of soil; in this second
layer the shells are mixed with the bones of animals. The top layer, containing
smaller shells, is covered with earth holding good-sized trees. The age of the heap
is unknown but the bottom layer was undoubtedly deposited many centuries ago.
The top deposit was made by the Abnaki Indians, who came to this region in
summer to catch fish and smoke them for winter use.

DAMARISCOTTA, 52.4 m. (30 alt.; Damariscotta Town, 825
pop.), is a tiny village on low land in a bend of the Damariscotta
River.

The digging of clams, which are served extensively in the many
nearby summer hotels and eating places, and are shipped away in
refrigerated cars, is an important local industry. The clammers, who
live in shacks near the salt water during the summer, tap along the
beaches at low tide, causing the clams, disturbed by the vibrations,
to spout out tiny streams of water that betray their hiding places in
the mud.

MAINE 27

NEWCASTLE, 52.6 m. (60 alt.; Newcastle Town, 914 pop.), is a
pleasant little community with tree-shaded streets on the bank of the
Damariscotta River at a point where it widens considerably. Like
many southern Maine towns, Newcastle was settled early in the 17th
century but the settlers, harassed by Indians, left their new homes
repeatedly.

Right from Newcastle on a local road is (R), atop a hill, the KAVANAUGH
MANSION (private}, 2.6 m., built in 1803 and once owned by Edward Kavanaugh,
acting Governor of Maine in 1 843. The two-story white building has an octagonal
cupola, a balustraded roof, and a fine doorway with fanlight and side lights under
a semicircular portico. Although slightly altered from its original form, it retains
an old-fashioned charm.

ST. PATRICK'S ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH (open), 2.8 m. (R), was built 1803-
1808 and dedicated by Father Jean de Cheverus (1768-1836), who in 1808
became the first Roman Catholic bishop of New England. Bishop Cheverus came
to America from France in 1796 and did some work among the Indians of the
Maine coast. In the final year of his life, after his return to France, he was made a
cardinal.

This thick-walled old church has a 250-year-old altarpiece from France. Some
of its paintings were taken from a Mexican convent during the Mexican War.
The present altar is of the sarcophagus type, unusual in the United States; in the
chancel is the original altar.

WISCASSET (Ind., meeting of three rivers), 60 m. (50 alt.; Wis-
casset Town, 1,186 pop.), seat of Lincoln Co., is a ghost town with
little more than half the population it had in 1850, when it was still
a fairly important port on the west bank of the wide Sheepscot River.
Its beautiful old homes, most of which were built by shipping mer-
chants and sea captains, are now occupied in part by artists and
writers who have been attracted by the distinctive charm of the
place. Until 1802 the town, formerly much larger in area than it
now is, was called Pownalborough in honor of Royal Governor
Pownal. Settlement began here in the middle of the 17th century but
the place was abandoned during King Philip's War and was not
again occupied until 1730.

Open House Day is held annually in August, the funds going to
the support of the town library. On this day the beautifully furnished
old homes, some occupied by descendants of the original owners and
others by summer residents, are opened to the public (adm. $2), and
collections of old and new craft work are displayed.

The WILLIAM NICKELS HOUSE (1807-08), corner of Main and
Fort Sts., one of the largest mansions of its period in Wiscasset, is a

28 U. S. ONE

massive three-story structure with a one-story entrance portico,
Corinthian pilasters, a long central Palladian window in the second
story, and a large semicircular window above it interpolated between
the square windows on each side in the third story. This unfortunate
arrangement of windows is a characteristic central motif of the
facade in houses on the Maine coast. The inharmonious railing above
the portico is a later addition (c. 1890). An interesting variation in
the detail of the main cornice is the omission of the modillions and the
use of a double row of dentils in their place. The main portal with
its elliptical fan light and elaborately mullioned side lights is particu-
larly notable for slender pilasters and delicately carved transom rail
and architrave. The face of the pilasters is carved in herringbone
pattern.

The ABIEL WOOD HOUSE (1812), corner of High and Lee Sts., is
almost a duplicate of the Nickels House. The Wood House, however,
has greater distinction because of the more pleasing proportions of
its Palladian window, and the lack of such superficial embellishments
as the Corinthian pilasters.

The CLAPP HOUSE, or Lilac Cottage, on US 1 opposite the Com-
mon, is an old story-and-a-half structure of unknown date, now
painted white with green shutters. The front yard, which is fragrant
with lilacs in the spring, is enclosed by a picket fence.

The LINCOLN COUNTY COURTHOUSE (1824), on the Common, con-
tains a jail that was at one time a State prison. This building, the
oldest in which court is still held in Maine, at one time resounded
with the rolling periods of Daniel Webster.

The LEE-PAYSON-SMITH HOUSE, High St. opposite the library, is
still owned by the descendants of Samuel E. Smith, Governor of
Maine (1831-34). It was erected in the early 19th century and ad-
mirably illustrates the skill of the carpenter-architects of the day and
their sensitive appreciation of classic detail executed in wood. The
distinctive charm of this square, two-story frame house, with its clap-
board front, brick ends, hip-roof topped with a captain's walk, and
low service wings, is found in its refinement of detail and its subtle
proportions, which attain an almost monumental quality. Perhaps
the most notable feature of the exterior is the fine modillioned and
dentiled cornices, both on the main section of the house and on the
ells at the side; its thin acute-angle profile, combined with the low
pitch of the roof, gives an effect of singular grace and delicacy. The

MAINE 29

Ionic pilasters, placed at some distance from the corners of the main
fa9ade, are carved in somewhat heavier detail. The open railing
around the captain's walk, suggesting a Chippendale pattern, is well
proportioned to the mass of the house.

In the TOWN LIBRARY (open weekdays 2-5:30 p.m.), High St., is a
very old piece of fire apparatus, a hand-drawn affair, equipped with
two leather buckets, two cotton bags for use in carrying small articles
from burning buildings, and a bed key for unfastening beds prepara-
tory to their removal. The Wiscasset Fire Society, organized in 1801,
though no longer active in a fire-fighting capacity, has maintained
many of its old-time rules and regulations, and members are still
fined 10^ if they are absent from meetings.

The TUCKER MANSION, or Tucker Castle, E. end of High St., built
in 1807, is of curious architecture; it is said to be a copy of a castle in
Dunbar, Scotland. The piazza was added in 1860. Inside, a slender
spiral staircase with mahogany balustrades rises in the center of the
hall. Patience Tucker Stapleton, daughter of a sea captain and
author of Trailing Tew and other stories, lived here in her youth.

1 . From the eastern end of Wiscasset an improved, unnumbered road branches
S. NORTH EDGEGOMB, 0.8 m. (50 alt., Edgecomb Town), is a small settle-
ment of white houses, with lawns extending to the tree-shaded bank of the
Sheepscot.

Opposite the post office, on the high riverbank is (L) the MARIE ANTOINETTE
HOUSE (visited at convenience of owner). This structure, built in 1774 by Capt. Joseph
Decker on Squam Island, from which it was much later brought to this spot,
was inherited by Decker's daughter, the wife of Samuel Clough, captain of a
merchantman that frequently visited France. In 1793 the captain became en-
gaged in an enterprise, the details of which are somewhat obscure. According
to tradition, he was moved by the unfortunate situation of the imprisoned Queen
of France to attempt her rescue with the aid of her friends; it seems clear, how-
ever, that he was merely hired by them to carry her to America on the Sally
when they had managed to effect her release. Some of her personal belongings
and various articles that her friends thought might make her home in exile more
comfortable and furnish it in a style befitting her rank, were 1 smuggled aboard
the Yankee ship. The plan, however, like others with the same purpose, failed;
the Queen was beheaded and Captain Clough set sail hastily to escape possible
punishment for his share in the enterprise.

In the meantime the captain had written to his wife to give her warning of the
guest she might expect to have for a time, carefully trying to reconcile her to the
dismaying idea of sheltering royalty. He doubtless found his home polished and
shining when he at last arrived without the Queen. The captain stored the
Queen's possessions in his home; some thought this was because of a personal
devotion to her, but it seems more likely that his Yankee conscience made him

30 U. S. ONE

uneasy about his right to dispose of the goods that had come into his possession in
such an irregular manner. Gradually, as time passed and no one came to claim
the cargo, the furnishings came into use in the large, plain, square house, now
standing in North Edgecomb. Many stories are told of their later uses and wan-
derings. It is said that a satin robe, worn by the King of France on state occasions,
was in time made into a dress by Mrs. Clough. A Wiscasset clockmaker discovered
in the interior of an old clock a plate inscribed in French indicating that the time-
piece had been presented by the maker to the Queen on the Dauphin's birthday.
Other mementos are at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York; a few
articles still remain in the Clough house.

There is a legend that Talleyrand and Marie Antoinette's son, the Dauphin
of France, were passengers on the return voyage of the Sally and that both were
guests at the Clough house for some time.

2. Right from Wiscasset on State 218 to (L) the old ALNA MEETING HOUSE
7.1 m. (apply at Walker House, next door, for admission). The original hand-hewn
shingles are in place on two of the weather-beaten sides of this old structure,
which was built in 1789, and on the north side are the original clapboards, ship-
lapped at the northeastern corner against the storms. Curiously designed hand-
wrought foot scrapers grace the sides of the doorstep. The interior woodwork is
very well preserved; the box pews, with carved spindles, seated nearly five hun-
dred people. The raised hourglass pulpit, with a winding flight of steps and finely
molded handrail, is paneled in contrasting dark and light wood; above the pulpit
is an octagonal bell-shaped canopy and sounding board, and behind it a long
arched window flanked by fluted pilasters. The pulpit, with an arrangement for
accommodating ministers of different heights, has been used by many men of
varying oratorical talents since Parson Wood, the first minister, preached of fire
and brimstone and fought in vain against the introduction of instrumental
music.

HEAD TIDE, 10 m. (40 alt., Alna Town), a tiny village consisting of a few
homes, one store, a church, and a sawmill, lies on both sides of the bridge that
crosses the Sheepscot River. The second house (L) on the road beyond the store
is the BIRTHPLACE OF EDWIN ARLINGTON ROBINSON (1869-1935).

At 64.6 m. is the junction with Montsweag Road, which is un-
marked and in poor condition.

Left on this road, at 4.4 m., is a view of HOCKOMOCK BAY with its
several islands.

At PHIPPS POINT, 4.8 m. (R), on a private estate, is the SITE OF SIR WILLIAM
PHIPS' HOME. Phips was born in Maine in 1651 of a poverty-stricken family and
worked as a shepherd and ship carpenter until he was 25, when he went to sea; he
learned to read and write in Boston and decided to make his fortune by treasure
hunting, managing in 1683 to receive a commission from the English Crown for
the recovery of treasure in a ship sunk off the Bahamas. He was successful in this
enterprise, receiving 16,000 pounds sterling and a knighthood as his reward.
He next commanded an expedition that captured Port Royal without difficulty
but his second expedition to Canada failed. Through the wirepulling of Cotton

MAINE 31

Mather he was appointed Royal Governor of Massachusetts; he lacked, however,
the tact and education to enable him to cope with the problems that confronted
him and became involved in difficulties resulting in his recall to England. He died
there in 1695 during an investigation of the charges against him.

NEQUASSET MEETING HOUSE, 67.7 m. (R), the oldest meeting house
E. of the Kennebec River, was built in 1757. Here Josiah Winship,
the first permanent pastor, was ordained in 1765, when there were
but 20 families and only two frame houses in the settlement.

WOOLWICH, 69.1 m. (30 alt.; Woolwich Town, 671 pop.), is on
the east bank of the Kennebec River opposite the city of Bath. Ship-
building and fishing for shad and sturgeon were the early industries,
now replaced by farming, dairying, and orcharding. The canning of
corn, peas, and beans is here rapidly increasing in volume.

Right from Woolwich on State 127 to the APPLETON DAY HOUSE, 3 m. (R),
built in 1777 on the site of the Samuel Harnden blockhouse. It is a two-and-a-
half-story frame house with a fireplace in each room. The chimneys and fireplaces
are constructed of locally made bricks. There are three cellars under this house;
legend has it that an underground passageway extending from the cellars to the
river was built for use in times of Indian attack.

US 1 crosses CARLTON BRIDGE (toll 50f) t built in 1927, which spans
the Kennebec River. The bridge commands a sweeping view of the
river, waterfront, and city.

The Kennebec is one of the historic rivers of America. It was one
of the earliest explored routes on the coast of North America; various
adventurers had made fragmentary reports on it before 1600, and
Ghamplain and Weymouth had explored it to some extent before
1606. It was named as one of the boundaries of various large land
grants in the race between the French and the British for control of
the continent. In the middle of August 1 607 George Popham and
Raleigh Gilbert, commanding the expedition prompted by Sir
Fernando Gorges and Sir John Popham, sailed up the river, passing
the place now spanned by the bridge in their search for a site for the
colony that was to send fur, sassafras, and other commodities back to
England to make fortunes for the London investors. Two decades
later it saw a steady stream of traffic to and from the trading settle-
ment on the site of the present Augusta conducted by the "Under-
takers" of Plymouth; the rich cargoes that came down its waters
saved the Massachusetts settlement from extinction. Since that time
the river has been the scene of continuous activity, of log-drives, ship

32 U. S. ONE

launchings, commercial travel, power development, and, not least
important, hunters' and fishermen's treks.

BATH, 70.3 m. (50 alt., 9,110 pop.), named for the ancient city
of Bath, England, has a history of almost two centuries of shipbuild-
ing, though its yards turn out comparatively few vessels today. Its
heyday was in the wooden-ship era, though the first steel sailing
vessel, a four-master, was built here. Naturally, many of its inhabit-
ants have been shipmasters and shipowners, and the older homes are
filled with souvenirs from distant parts of the earth printed Indian
linens, teakwood chests, blue and white ginger jars from Canton, and
strangely shaped sea shells and still have a faint odor of sandal-
wood, camphor, and spice. During the World War the local yards
were active again, attracting several thousand workmen, but the
revival was temporary. The chief event in local life, however, is still
the launching of a new craft; and the townspeople follow the histories
of Bath ships with pride.

BATH IRONWORKS (visited by permit), in the center of the city at
Union and Water Sts. below the Carlton Bridge, was founded by
Gen. Thomas Hyde after his return from the Civil War. Some fairly
large and many small Government vessels have been built here, in-
cluding the battleship Georgia, cruisers, and lighthouse tenders.
Many fine yachts have also come from this plant.

Nearby are other shipbuilding works that can make any but the
largest vessels.

The new DAVENPORT MEMORIAL BUILDING, Front St., housing the
Bath municipal offices, has in its tower a bell cast in 1805 at the Paul
Revere foundry. The DAVENPORT MEMORIAL MUSEUM in the building
contains ship paintings, original half-models from which were built
famous Kennebec merchantmen and vessels launched in other Maine
ports, and many exhibits of importance in Maine marine history.

In the beautifully landscaped CITY PARK, on Front St., is a cannon
taken from the British man-of-war Somerset, which was "swinging
wide at her moorings" in Boston Harbor when Paul Revere made his
ride. The cannon was used for the firing of salutes at Bath until the
latter part of the 1 9th century.

The APARTMENT HOUSE, 3 North St., corner of Front St., formerly
a rather pretentious old home, was between 1915 and 1924 occupied
by Madame Emma Eames (1867), the operatic star, and her hus-
band, Emilio de Gogorza, the baritone.

SHILOH, MAINE

'WEDDING CAKE HOUSE," MAINE

MAINE 33

The home of Herbert L. Spinney (open), 75 Court St., houses a
COLLECTION OF NATIVE FLORA AND FAUNA. Mr. Spinney was associ-
ated with the Smithsonian Institution for many years.

Right from Bath on Washington St., at 1.6 m. and opposite Harward St., is
the old PETERSON HOUSE, on the river bank. The place is an architectural curi-
osity that was built (1770) by ship carpenters for the King's timber agent. The
mass of the building is broad at the base and narrow at the top; the door jambs,
windows, and window frames follow the lines of the house. The front lawn is the
site of the dock at which were loaded the tree trunks that had been marked with a
"broad arrow," indicating that they were sacred to the Royal Navy. These trees
were intended for masts and were at least 24 inches in diameter. The resentment
of the people of Maine against the commandeering of their best mast pines was
one of the causes of the revolt that became a revolution.

Right from Washington St. on Harward St.; at 1.8 m. is the junction with
High St.; L. here to Whiskeag Rd.; R. on the latter to (R) the STONE HOUSE
2.1 m. (private), a structure with cathedral-like doors and windows that was
erected in 1805 and became the home of Maine's first Governor (1820), William
King. It is said to have been built as a hunting lodge by some Englishmen.

BRUNSWICK, 79.3 m. (30 alt.; Brunswick Town, 6,144 pop.),
old port (see MAINE GUIDE).

Points of Interest. Oilman Mansion, Emmons House, Pejepscot Historical
Museum, Bowdoin College, and others.

Section 4. Brunswick to New Hampshire Line, 76.9 m.

South of Brunswick US 1 runs through pleasant farmlands broken
occasionally by pine groves, with open ocean (L) never far distant
and often visible across wide stretches of marshland. Side routes
branch (L) to historic and scenic spots on coastal peninsulas where
the inhabitants are for the most part descendants of early fishermen
and seamen, gaining their livelihoods by catering to the summer col-
onists and tourists.

At 8 m. is the junction with a dirt road.

Right on this road is SHILOH, 10 m., which has received national attention
from time to time as the home of the Holy Ghost and Us Society, a religious sect
with Adventist beliefs, founded by the Reverend Frank W. Sandford, the Elijah
of the early 1900's.

Sandford's cult brought converts from many parts of the world to pour their
money into a common fund. Men and women sold their worldly possessions and
turned the proceeds over to him. The colony flourished for a time, practicing
various crafts. W 7 hen the world did not end as he had predicted after ordering a
ceaseless night-and-day vigil of prayer in the high tower on the main building,

34 U. S. ONE

Sandford announced that the Almighty had commissioned him to go forth and
convert the heathen. When he prayed for means to accomplish this, a $10,000
check appeared; he purchased a 150-ton sailing vessel, the Coronet, and set sail
from Portland Harbor with a flowing beard, purple robe, sailor hat, and Bible.
Several voyages were made without noticeable results. During the last voyage, in
1912, after many hardships and privations, eight members of the party died of
scurvy; when the ship returned to Portland Harbor, Sandford had trouble with
the authorities. When he came back to Shiloh two years later he found his old
power gone and his people scattered; he subsequently dropped from sight. The
buildings (services at noon Sun,), on a high, windswept hill, are unusual. The square,
hip-roof three-story MAIN STRUCTURE (see illustration), on a high foundation, has a
large five-story tower on its front, each story of the tower containing a large room
and the top floor having protruding bay windows on each side; the tower is sur-
mounted with a high-domed cupola supported by very slender columns. Between
the main building and two-story, towered wings are three-story ornamental gate-
ways with arched doors. Broad piazzas with balustrades on the roofs surround
the three buildings.

In 1936, after many years of neglect, the place was repaired and the towers
regilded. A small group of cultists lives here but does not welcome curious visitors.
When rumors reached Portland of renewed activities under the leadership of
Sandford's son and of the reconditioning of the Coronet, reporters were sent to in-
vestigate; the residents refused to answer questions.

Services are held in a well-carpeted room seating 200. During prayer all per-
sons kneel with elbows on chairs, various members introducing the prayers as
called upon by the speaker. While visitors are now invited to these services, none
can inspect other buildings on the grounds at any time.

FREEPORT, 8.9 m. (140 alt.; Freeport Town, 2,184 pop.), a
pleasant, tree-shaded old village, is often referred to as the Birthplace
of Maine, because the final papers for the separation of Maine from
Massachusetts, which established it in 1820 as an independent State,
were signed here by commissioners from Massachusetts and the
Province of Maine, probably in JAMESON'S TAVERN (1779), just N.
of the post office (R).

When Freeport was incorporated in 1789 it was named for Sir
Andrew Freeport, the character in Addison's Spectator Papers who rep-
resented the London merchant class. There was a time when Free-
port had a prosperous shipbuilding business, but it is now engaged in
shoemaking, crabbing, and crab-meat packing. The crab meat,
picked from the shells by groups of young women, is shipped in iced
cartons.

Freeport, like almost every other old town along this coast, has its
story of an Indian attack. In 1756 Thomas Means, living near Flying
Point, was surprised in his bed and scalped; his wife and infant son

MAINE 35

were killed by a single bullet; two other children crept into hiding
and escaped. The Indians took Mrs. Means' sister Mary with them
to Canada, where she became a housemaid in the home of one of the
French feudal lords. She was later rescued by William McLellan,
whom she married.

Left from Freeport on a dirt road to an old CEMETERY, 0.6 m., the burial place
of many sea captains and seamen of the area.

PORTER'S LANDING, 1.2 m., the commercial center in Freeport's shipping days,
is now a dignified residential section in which the old homes have been entirely
modernized.

At 2.7 m. is a four corners in SOUTH FREEPORT, the street (L) leading to
the village center. South Freeport, at the mouth of Harraseeket River on Freeport
Harbor, which is navigable throughout the year, has been a fishing center from
its earliest day, assuming its greatest importance between 1825 and 1830, when as
many as 12,000 barrels of mackerel were packed and shipped annually. Of
late it has specialized in crab-meat packing. In 1 878 the John A. Briggs, one of
the largest wooden vessels built on the Maine coast up to that time, was launched
here.

Beyond the four corners are the RUINS OF CASCO CASTLE, once a pic-
turesque summer hotel modeled after a medieval stronghold. The tower, all that
remains of the hotel, which was burned in 1 904, is a round solid structure of field
stone about 80 ft. high with walls 3 ft. thick. Standing on an eminence overlook-
ing the bay, it has long been a landmark for fishermen.

At 10.1 m. is the junction with a local road.

Right on this road to the DESERT OF MAINE (adm. 25$, 2 m., covering
300 acres and surrounded by forests and green farmlands. This miniature Sahara,
not unusual in coastal areas, is an example of the worst type of soil erosion.

The first patch of sand, noticed in the latter part of the 19th century, was about
30 ft. sq. The sand stratum is present around the 300-acre (1937) area for a radius
of six miles. In this circle a top layer of loam is either being covered or worn by
frequent sandstorms. Some geologists believe the spot covers the bed of an an-
cient lake, perhaps formed by glacial deposits, for a glint of mica is apparent in
the sand, which is very fine in texture. Sandstorms constantly raise and lower the
desert level as the erosion creeps outward, the sand covering everything in its
path, creating 30-ft. gullies and high dunes. The tops of trees once 70 ft. high
appear as bushes, and strangely enough are still alive. Among them is an apple
tree that still blossoms and bears fruit.

At 14.6 m. is the junction with State 115.

Right on this road is YARMOUTH, 0.4 m. (80 alt.; Yarmouth Town, 2,125
pop.). This seaport town on Casco Bay was settled in 1658, laid waste by Indians
in 1673, and resettled in 1713. Fishing and crab-meat packing are the major in-
dustries, which have supplanted the shipping and shipbuilding of the 1 9th century.

NORTH YARMOUTH ACADEMY, on Main St., was founded in 1810.

3 6 U. S. ONE

At 15.5 m. (L) in the Westcustogo neighborhood (Ind., clear tidal
river) is a BURIAL GROUND dating back to 1732. Just beyond is a group
of three large old houses. The most southerly of the houses is on the
SITE OF THE ROYALL GARRISON HOUSE, part of the property pur-
chased by William Royall in 1643. The house behind it stands on the
SITE OF THE FIRST CHURCH OF YARMOUTH, built in 1729. The third
house (1769) is on the SITE OF THE LORING GARRISON of the 17th
century.

FALMOUTH FORESIDE, 19.8 m. (100 alt.; Falmouth Town,
2,041 pop.), is a residential section of fine homes in an agricultural
town on the shores of Casco Bay.

UNDERWOOD SPRING (L), now exploited as a private commer-
cial enterprise, is a natural curiosity, for though it has no per-
ceptible source, it has a large flow of pure water unaffected by
drought or freshet. The Abnaki Indians maintained a permanent
settlement here, and Waymouth, the English explorer, wrote in
his journal that the Indians allowed hirri to fill his casks at this
spring.

Along the route here is an exceptional panoramic view (L) of
Gasco Bay and its islands.

At 21.8 m. (R) is a marker indicating the nearby SITE OF FORT
NEW CASCO, which, erected in 1698, was also a trading post. The
Indians of Maine had at first been very friendly with the English; it
was only after they had been repeatedly betrayed, insulted, cheated,
and assaulted that they became hostile and vengeful. The French,
who managed their relations more amicably, soon won the friendship
of the Indians and determined to use them in their efforts to drive the
English from American shores. Maine, part of the territory that the
French claimed longest, was particularly subject to attack. In 1703 a
conference was held with the Indians at Fort New Casco and the
settlers hoped for safer times; but within two months another attack
came and the fort was the center of defense for the settlements of
Casco Bay. The attack of a large force of Frenchmen and Indians
was repulsed only by the arrival of an armed vessel. The fort was
abandoned in 1716, when Massachusetts thought it was no longer
necessary to maintain a garrison here.

The attractive castellated stone edifice (L) is the Episcopal CHURCH
OF ST. MARY THE VIRGIN; directly opposite is FALMOUTH TOWN
FOREST, a well-kept grove of old pine trees.

MAINE 37

PORTLAND, 27.7 m. (80 alt., 70,810 pop.), largest city in Maine
(see MAINE GUIDE).

Points of Interest. Longfellow Birthplace, Sweat Memorial Art Museum, City
Hall with Municipal Organ, Wadsworth House, and others.

From Portland there are steamer trips to the various islands of GASGO BAY
(Ind., place of herons), on which the city lies. The bay was visited by most of the
explorers who came along this coast shortly after 1600; all were attracted to it be-
cause of the safe anchorage offered by its deep waters and because the islands gave
them places to land where they felt reasonably safe from the inhabitants of the
country, on whom they looked with some fear. The islands are now frequented
by summer visitors. Some are fairly large, some mere dots on the water. On them
hang countless legends of castaways, buried treasures, shipwrecks, and Indian
gods. Many of the islands bear homely names given by the pioneers, who displayed
considerable imagination in finding resemblances to objects and animals in the
rough profiles Ram, Horse, Sow and Pigs, the Goslings, Turnip, and Whale-
boat are among them. Others have names derived from events that took place on
them, or from animals inhabiting them.

The first settlement in the bay took place in 1623, when Gapt. Christopher
Levett erected a stone house, probably on YORK ISLAND, formerly known as
House Island.

JEWELL ISLAND, one of the outermost, acquired by George Jewell in 1636,
has the usual legend of treasure buried on it by Captain Kidd. Treasure seekers,
ignorant of the fact that Kidd never visited this part of the coast, tried every
possible device to find the gold and jewels they believed to be there, sacrificing
animals, using divining rods, and invoking the help of demented people they
believed to have second sight. Legends have grown up about the activities of the
persistent diggers; one concerns a mysterious stranger who appeared, asking for
the help of a skipper residing there. The visitor disappeared without anyone's
having seen him leave the island and shortly afterward the captain showed evi-
dence of great wealth; curious neighbors announced that they had seen the im-
prints of a large chest near a newly dug hole and a later treasure hunter reported
the finding of a buried skeleton nearby.

CLIFF ISLAND was the home of men who were accused of luring ships onto
the rocks, in order to wreck them.

ORR'S ISLAND, accessible from State 24, S. of Brunswick, was the scene of
Harriet Beecher Stowe's story The Pearl of Orr's Island; Mrs. Stowe's former
home stands on a hill near the ferry landing.

EAGLE ISLAND, on the outer rim of the bay, was owned by Admiral Robert
E. Peary, who made his home on its stony acres for many years.

Large PEAKS ISLAND, near Portland and a favorite resort of residents of
that city, has various amusement devices; a number of Portland people have
year-round homes here.

BAILEY ISLAND, S. of Orr's Island, was the summer home of Clara Louise
Burnham of Chicago, who wrote a number of stories about the area.

At 29.3 m. US 1 crosses Fore River, the southern boundary of
Portland, on Vaughan's Bridge. Here huge oil and gas tanks line the

38 U. S. ONE

highway on both sides of the river, which separates Portland and
South Portland.

The NONESUCH RIVER, 32 m., so named for its remarkably crooked
course to the sea, figured prominently in the affairs of Scarboro
settlers and is mentioned in many early histories. Because it was im-
possible to bring boats of any size up this sharply winding tidal river,
a canal was constructed, to follow the general course of the river.
Instead of digging the entire canal by hand, the workers made a
narrow ditch along the proposed course. The action of the tides car-
ried away the loose soil, finally completing a project that would have
required much back-breaking toil. Near the highway bridge, fisher-
men congregate in May for the annual run of ale wives.

At 32.6 m. is the old PLUMMER HOUSE (private), set back with its
side facing the street. It is a one-and-a-half-story, gable-end house
with a central chimney.

At 33.7 m. is OAK HILL (100 alt., Scarboro Town).

Left from Oak Hill on State 207 to (R) the HUNNEWELL HOUSE (1684), 0.7 m.
(private), known as the Old Red House. It stands in a "heater piece", a triangular
plot of ground at a junction of roads, so called in early days when snow-removal
equipment, which included a heater, was stored there. The timbers of this small
one-and-a-half-story lean-to dwelling are hand-hewn and wooden pegged. A
trap door in the living room floor leads to the shallow dugout used as a hiding
place during Indian raids.

At 1.2 m. is SGARBORO (20 alt.; Scarboro Town, 2,445 pop.). Most of the
houses in this small village were built and are inhabited by seafaring men. The
FIRST PARISH CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH (R), on the site of one built in 1728, is an
attractive little white structure with a fan window in the front, and a belfry and
spire.

The PARSON LANCASTER HOUSE (private), 1.5 in. on State 207, is a two-and-a-
half-story unpainted dwelling with two huge elms in its front yard; it was built in
1766. Interesting architectural features include wide roof boards, single board
wainscoting, white (pumpkin) pine paneling, HL hinges, hand-wrought latches,
knobs, and locks, fireplaces with hand-carved woodwork, and a staircase with
delicate balustrade. The floors, ceilings, and unpainted woodwork have the
patina of age.

In the BLACK POINT CEMETERY, 1.7 m. (L), the dark gray slate stones date
back to 1739.

At 3 m. is the junction with a road (L) that leads to the popular bathing
resort, HIGGINS BEACH.

The private BLACK POINT GAME PRESERVE AND FARM, 3.7 m. (R) on State
207, lies opposite the BLACK POINT FRUIT FARM, which has fine orchards. Small
game such as partridge, pheasant, and rabbit roam unmolested in the small
wooded preserve set aside by local residents.

MAINE 39

MASSACRE POND, visible (L) at 4.1 m., was so named because in 1713 Richard
Hunnewell and 19 companions were set upon near here and slain by a band of
200 Indians.

Opposite the pond is the fairway of the PROUT'S NECK COUNTRY CLUB GOLF
COURSE (private). At the seventh hole is a marker on the site of the first Anglican
church in Maine, erected prior to 1658.

At GARRISON COVE, 4.8 m., the road emerges from the woods to a cliff
from which is a splendid view of the bay with the white sands of Old Orchard
Beach gleaming in the distance.

A marker at 5.2 m. (R) indicates the spot where Chief Mogg Heigon, subject
of Whittier's poem, Mogg Megone, was slain in 1677. This marker is at the eastern
end of beautiful Garrison Cove on the site of Josselyn (or Scottow) Fort, a head-
quarters for defense in the first Indian war. Directly ahead is BLACK POINT, its
rugged shore line sweeping westward toward Old Orchard Beach.

The PROUT'S NECK YACHT CLUBHOUSE, 5.1 m. (R) on the ledges of the point,
commands a wide view of the Atlantic.

Left of the highway is a path leading to the PROUT'S NECK BIRD SANCTUARY,
given to Scarboro by Charles Homer in memory of his brother, Winslow Homer,
the artist.

PROUT'S NECK, 5.5 m. (40 alt., Scarboro Town), is a pretentious summer
settlement. Left is the SITE OF A BLOCKHOUSE where in 1703 eight men under
Capt. John Larrabee for several days withstood a siege by 500 French and
Indian marauders.

In 1633 Thomas Cammock and his wife Margaret moved from Richmond's
Island to Prout's Neck, then called Black Point. Here they were joined by Henry
Josselyn and for a short time, in 1638, by his brother, John Josselyn. John's ac-
counts of his visit, published as New England Rarities and elsewhere, repeat stories
of sea serpents, witches' revels, and of a merman or triton that appeared in Casco
Bay till Mr. Mitten chopped off its hand to prevent it from upsetting his canoe.
Josselyn included a description of the native flora and of the Indians remarking,
"There are many stranger things in the world than are to be seen between
London and Stanes."

At 35 m. (L) is the DANISH VILLAGE, a tourist camp with cabins
patterned after the colorful little homes of a medieval Danish town,
grouped about the raadhus (town hall). Architectural details have
been faithfully copied in the hall, where meals are served, as well as
in the individual cabins.

At 35.1 m. is the junction with a dirt road.

Right on this road to SCOTTOW'S HILL. The first stagecoach road from Boston
passed over this steep summit to avoid the marshes near the coast. At 0.6 m. is
the KING HOMESTEAD, a two-story gable-end house with a long shed at one end.

The highway crosses SCARBORO MARSHES, where underlying
quicksands have caused great difficulties in road construction.
Asphalt paving has been used because the surface invariably settles

40 U. S. ONE

several inches within a few months after being repaired. In former
days large crops of salt-marsh hay were gathered on the hundreds
of acres of marshland bordering the shore S. of Portland. Seven-by-
ten-inch oak slabs were fastened to the hoofs of the horses used in
haying to keep them from sinking into the ground. Protected by
game laws, plover, duck, and gulls feed uninterruptedly on the
marshes where they were formerly hunted.

At DUNSTAN, 36.7 m. (50 alt., Scarboro Town), is the ST.
Louis SCHOOL FOR BOYS, conducted by the Sisters of Charity. Large
residences in this vicinity have been converted into tourist homes
and inns that advertise "New England shore dinners" steamed
and fried clams, lobster stew, and boiled and broiled lobster.

At SAGO (pron. So'ko), 42.4 m. (60 alt., 7,233 pop.), is the CYRUS
KING HOUSE, 271 Main St., now the rectory of the Holy Trinity
Roman Catholic Church. The house was built in 1807 by Cyrus
King, member of the Scarboro family, which produced the first
Governor of Maine. A later occupant of the house was Horace
Woodman, the inventor, who in 1854 devised the self-stripping
cotton card and many other textile manufacturing appliances.

Lyman Beecher Stowe, the author who is a grandson of Harriet
Beecher Stowe, was born in Saco when his father was minister of
the FIRST CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, corner Beach and Main Sts.

YORK INSTITUTE, 375 Main St. (open weekdays 7-4 p.m.), a small
brick building erected in 1928, contains a collection of Colonial
costumes and furniture, paintings, statuary, Maine minerals, Indian
relics, and historical documents.

THORNTON ACADEMY, 438 Main St., a coeducational school of
high standing in general preparatory courses, was founded in 1811
and now has 200 students.

BIDDEFORD, 43.3 m. (80 alt., 17,633 pop.), is united histori-
cally, industrially, and socially with its twin city, on the opposite
bank of the Saco River. As a unit, the two cities rank second in
industrial importance in Maine; Biddeford is the industrial part of
the union, Saco being predominantly residential. The population,
strongly Franco-American, is employed in the three large textile and
textile-machinery mills and the several smaller manufactories.

As far as is known, Richard Vines was in charge of the first com-
pany of Englishmen to explore the site of Saco; he had been sent out
from England in 1616 by Gorges, the most enthusiastic of the English

MAINE 41

promoters of settlement at the time, and others whom Gorges had
interested in the enterprise. In 1629 Saco was granted to Thomas
Lewis and Richard Bonython, and a permanent settlement was
made shortly thereafter.

It is said that about 1675 some drunken sailors, rowing in the
river and seeing an Indian woman and her infant in a canoe nearby,
determined to test a legend they had heard to the effect that Indian
offspring swam from birth by instinct. They overturned the canoe;
while the woman reached shore safely, the child died a few days
later as the result of the experience. Unfortunately for the settlers,
the child was the son of Squando, an Indian leader, who executed
terrible revenge on the whites.

The PEPPERELL MANUFACTURING Co. PLANT, 170 Main St.
(visited by permit), an industry established in 1845, occupies an area
of 56 acres and manufactures nationally advertised cotton products.

The SAGO-LOWELL Co. PLANT, off Main on Smith St. (visited by
permit), has built textile machinery for more than 100 years.

The YORK MANUFACTURING Co. PLANT, Main St. on Factory
Island between Biddeford and Saco (visited by permit), also manu-
factures textiles.

The LAFAYETTE HOUSE, 20 Elm St., is a square, yellow, three-
story house with a hip roof. It is on the property of the Diamond
Match Co., which conducts many kinds of woodworking at this
plant.

Between Biddeford and Kennebunk US 1 for a few miles follows
the post road established for early mail carriers.

KENNEBUNK, 51.9 m. (20 alt.; Kennebunk Town, 3,302 pop.),
is notable for its fine elms. The town, settled about 1650, was for
nearly a century in almost constant dread of attack by Indians. By
1730 shipbuilding had begun along the Mousam River. This indus-
try and an active trade with the West Indies made Kennebunk a
town of importance until the beginning of the Revolutionary War.
Soon after the Revolution the Mousam River was again utilized in
the development of industry. Small mills sprang up along its banks;
shoes, twine, and lumber are still manufactured here. Kennebunk
has one of the few municipally owned light and power plants in the
State.

The FIRST PARISH UNITARIAN CHURCH, at the northern entrance
to Kennebunk village, was built in 1774 and remodeled in 1803.

42 U. S. ONE

The fine steeple has a three-story tower with front windows and a
top in three stages; the first stage is an open belfry, the second has a
four-faced clock, and the third is an octagonal lantern cupola with
elliptical openings. In 1803 a bell cast in the Paul Revere foundry
was placed in the steeple.

The STORER HOUSE (private), on Storer St., was the home of
Gen. Joseph Storer, Revolutionary soldier and friend of Lafayette.
This large yet simple structure is representative of the excellent
taste in home building that characterized the post-Revolutionary
period.

Kenneth Roberts, author of Northwest Passage and other popular
historical novels, was born in this house. Just beyond is the huge,
spreading LAFAYETTE ELM, under which the French hero stood
during the reception given in his honor in 1825 by the people of
Kennebunk. The tree has grown so large that it has been necessary
to prop up several of its massive limbs.

The BOURNE MANSION (1815), on Bourne St. (private), is a square
three-story structure with four chimneys, two at each end of the
building. The principal entrance, facing the garden, has a fanlight
of thick leaded glass, a motif that is repeated above in the second-
story window. Outstanding features of the interior are the curved
staircase and the fine paneled fireplaces.

FIVE ELMS, on Main St. near Fletcher St., are believed to have
been set out on the day of the Battle of Lexington. Directly back of
the fourth elm is the NATHANIEL FROST HOUSE, one of many fine
homes built by prosperous merchants and shipowners in the town's
period of greatest affluence.

Left from Kennebunk on State 35 at 0.1 m. is the ROBERT LORD HOUSE
(1800-1803), similar in formality and dignity to the Sewell House, of the same
period, in York. It is a massive, two-story, rectangular structure with a low hip
roof and parapet rail. The symmetrical fagade is finished with carefully matched
siding simulating stone, and is broken by the lines of slender Doric pilasters, by
a slightly projecting central pavilion with crowning gable pediment, and by a
narrow belt course at the second-floor level. The elliptical fanlight of the entrance
doorway and its dark louvred shutters are repeated in a large sentinel window in
the pediment. In the second story is a triple rectangular window, its sections
separated by slender paneled pilasters. The wall openings are framed with an
unusually fine trim. The design of the parapet rail, though a trifle light in the
absence of the usual corner posts, is notable for its delicately turned balusters.
An older house (c.1767) forms a rear wing.

The TAYLOR HOUSE (1795-1797), adjoining the Lord House, is notable for its

MAINE 43

three exterior entrances. Of similar proportions and detail, these doorways are
designed with flanking pilasters, semicircular fanlights, and crowning pediments.
The interior is decorated with unusually fine putty-stucco ornament a char-
acteristic medium of the period used in simulating carved ornament on flat
surfaces.

At 0.6 m. is the junction with a tarred road.

Right here 1 m. to a field road leading to a granite monument marking the
SITE OF THE LARRABEE GARRISON HOUSE (1720), overlooking Mousam River. A
bronze bas-relief on the monument depicts the garrison within whose walls were
five houses.

On State 35 at 1.2 m. is the yellow brick WEDDING CAKE HOUSE (private),
one of the most extraordinary relics of the scroll-saw era extant. The house (see
illustration), apparently built some time before the decorations were added, is a
square, two-story structure of good proportions with a central doorway and, above,
a graceful Palladian window. At the corners have been added series of slim,
elaborately ornamented wooden pinnacles that rise several feet above the low
roof; these are duplicated on each side of the entrance and, in miniature, in front
of a trellised canopy over the steps that lead to the doorway. In between these
pinnacles at the tops of the first and second stories, has been suspended an
elaborate tracery, raised to Gothic peaks over the entrance canopy and the
Palladian window; the effect is that of the paper lace mat on old-fashioned
valentines. A long barn, touching the rear of the house on the right, also has
pinnacles; its small high windows are outlined by large wooden arches. A local
legend is that the decorations were added by a sea captain whose bride had been
deprived of her large wedding cake when he was ordered hastily to sea in an
emergency.

The LINDSEY TAVERN (1799), 56.7 m. (L), now a tourist home,
was a stagecoach stop on the old Post Road. Some of the original
features of the interior, including stencilled wallpaper in the entrance
hall, a Dutch oven in the dining room, and hand-made door hinges,
have been retained.

WELLS, 56.9 m. (50 alt.; Wells Town, 2,036 pop.), is a small
settlement in one of Maine's oldest townships. Covering a large area
that originally included Kennebunk, the town was often the center
of hostilities during the Indian wars, which raged intermittently
between 1650 and 1730. The names occurring most often in accounts
of early Indian warfare are the names still most frequently heard in
the town today. During a large part of the town's existence, farming
has been the chief means of livelihood for the inhabitants. Increasing
numbers of tourists and summer residents have afforded a large
market for local garden produce.

At 57.9 m. (L) is the JOSEPH STORER GARRISON HOUSE (private),
where 1 5 soldiers withstood a two-day siege by 500 Frenchmen and

44 U. S. ONE

Indians in 1692. It is a weather-beaten two-and-a-half-story yellow
structure with a foundation of granite.

At 58.1 m. is the junction with an improved road.

Left on this road to WELLS BEACH, 1 m. (20 alt., Wells Town), a popular
resort with a good bathing beach.

The FIRST CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, 58.3 m. (R), stands on the
site of the first church building in Wells, which was organized about
1643 by the Reverend John Wheelwright, who shared the beliefs of
Anne Hutchinson, the English noncomformist. Wheelwright had
been exiled from Massachusetts, had settled at Exeter and, when
that was declared to be under the jurisdiction of Massachusetts, had
migrated to this town with his family. About 1 646 he made his peace
with Massachusetts and returned to Boston. While a student at
Oxford University he was apparently notable as an athlete, for
Oliver Cromwell, his classmate there, said later in life that he had
never felt as much fear before any army as before Wheelwright in
competitive sports. The church Wheelwright built at Wells was
burned by the Indians in 1692.

Between Wells and Ogunquit are (L) many glimpses of sand
dunes, beaches, and the ocean. This section of US 1 is highly com-
mercialized, appealing to the tourist trade with road stands, restau-
rants, and cabins.

OGUNQUIT, 62 m. (60 alt., Wells Town), noted for many years
only as a fishing village in a particularly beautiful setting, now has
16 hotels and is known for its colony of artists and actors (see
below). Among the many recreations here is fishing for tuna,
which has become popular along the southern Maine coast in recent
years.

Left from Ogunquit on a winding road, which passes through heavily forested
country broken by summer estates and affords splendid vistas of the ocean (L).
The coast line is rocky.

At 0.9 m. is the junction with a road (L) that leads 0.2 m. to PERKINS
COVE and an art colony. Grouped about the art school are small individualis-
tically decorated cottages. The village abounds with art and antique shops and
has several gaily decorated Chinese restaurants.

At 2.2 m. is the entrance to the OGUNQUIT CLIFF COUNTRY CLUB.

At 2.7 m. is the EPISCOPAL MEMORIAL STONE CHURCH with its bell in an arch
of the roof over the door. It stands on a cliff overlooking the sea.

At 5.9 m. the road rejoins US 1 at Cape Neddick.

MAINE 45

At 62.4 m. is a junction with Agamenticus Road.

Right on this road is a camp site at the foot of MOUNT AGAMENTICUS (692 alt.),
5.7 m., where the Indian saint Aspinquid was buried. This, the highest of the
hills in this relatively low area, long used as a point of navigation in the days of
square-riggers, is still so used by coastal vessels. A 15-minute climb from the camp
site along a bridle trail leads to the FIRE LOOKOUT STATION, from which is an ex-
tensive view of the sea in one direction, with BOON ISLAND LIGHT in the distance.

According to tradition, in April 1682 the Increase, a trader between Plymouth
and Pemaquid, was wrecked on an offshore island, its only survivors, three white
men and one Indian, existing as best they could on the rocky shores. They were
nearly ready to give up hope of rescue when one day in May they saw smoke
rising from the summit of Agamenticus. This smoke was that of the burnt offer-
ings of hundreds of Indians from all over Maine, converts of Aspinquid, who was
a disciple of John Eliot; they had brought deer, moose, fish, and even rattlesnakes
to sacrifice in the flames to the memory of their departed leader. Heartened by
the smoke that indicated the presence of people on the mainland, the castaways
gathered driftwood and themselves built a huge fire, which attracted rescuers
from the mainland. In gratitude for their salvation, it is said, the men named the
island Boon. Boon Island Light was erected here in 1811.

At 62.8 m. (L) is the new OGUNQUIT PLAYHOUSE. The Ogunquit
summer theater group, one of the largest in Maine, has been under
the direction of Walter Hartwig for several years, and has nationally
known stage and screen stars as guest artists. During the season a new
play is presented each week. The Workshop, an interesting develop-
ment that attracts students of the theater from all sections of the
country, makes several presentations during the summer.

In the vicinity of CAPE NEDDICK, 66.1 m. (50 alt., York
Town), are the well-built stone fences and rolling farmlands of
southern Maine, with rock outcroppings typical of the New England
glacial terrain.

At 70.2 m. is a junction with a tarred road.

Right on this road is the MC!NTIRE GARRISON HOUSE (private), 3.7 m. (L),
built between 1640-45 by Alexander Maxwell and restored in 1909 by John R.
Mclntire. As was customary in early garrisons, the second story overhangs the
first so that beleaguered defenders could pour hot pitch and grease upon the
enemy below. The building is constructed of heavy timbers interlocking at the
corners and sheathed on the outside with weather-beaten shingles.

At the east end of the bridge (R) is a GRANITE MONUMENT with a
bronze plaque bearing the following inscription:

"The Province of Maine. Originally extending from the Merri-
mac to the Kennebec Rivers, was granted Aug. 10th 1622 to Sir

46 U. S. ONE

Ferdinando Gorges and John Mason, by The Council for New
England, established at Plymouth in 1635 when Gorges received the
Eastern portion extending from the Piscataqua to the Kennebec,
which thereafter retained the original name of the Province of
Maine."

US 1 crosses the New Hampshire Line at 76.9 m. in the center of
the PoRTSMouTH-KiTTERY MEMORIAL BRIDGE over the Piscataqua
River.

NEW HAMPSHIRE

Maine Line Portsmouth Mass. Line, 15.1 m. US 1.

Boston & Maine R.R. parallels route.

Well paved; all types of accommodations at short intervals.

Section 5. Maine Line to Massachusetts Line, 15.1 m.

US 1 spans the restless Piscataqua River; the current of this
turbulent stream is so swift that the water never freezes even when the
temperature is far below zero.

From the earliest days the road between Portsmouth, N.H., and
Newburyport, Mass., often followed or closely paralleled by the line
of the modern highway, served to bind the sparse settlement together.
Over this country road a lone horseman carried the mail between
Portsmouth and Boston until the coming of the stagecoach. He
forded rivers, crossed treacherous salt marshes, and, when necessary,
fought off Indians and wolves in the discharge of his duties. Stavers
Flying Stage Coach began a regular run between Portsmouth and
Boston in 1761. This was a curricle, a two- wheeled, two-horse vehicle
with room for three passengers. Over this route on December 13,
1774, Paul Revere rode to inform the Committee of Safety in Ports-
mouth of the British order that no more gunpowder should be ex-
ported to America. As a result the citizens were able to secrete what
ammunition they had. Washington passed this way in 1775 after
taking command in Cambridge, and again in 1789. James Monroe
traveled it in 1817, and Lafayette in 1824, when he had become an
almost legendary hero to the inhabitants, who lined the highway for
a glimpse of him.

PORTSMOUTH, 0.5 m. (30 alt., 14,495 pop.), ancient port (see
N.H. GUIDE).

Points of Interest. Wentworth-Gardner House and many other points of histori-
cal and architectural interest.

US 1 in Portsmouth passes through narrow State Street, past the
old EPISCOPAL CHAPEL, a wooden Doric structure (L), and the JOHN
PAUL JONES HOUSE, built in 1738 (R), to Haymarket Square. Turning
L. on Middle Street, it passes (R) the PIERCE HOUSE (see illustration),
built in 1800; the BOARDMAN HOUSE, 1805 (R); the LARKIN HOUSE,
1815 (R); and the RUNDLET MAY HOUSE, 1806 (R).

48 U. S. ONE

The highway goes through pine woods and salt meadows, dipping
into a hollow at 2.1 m., where Sagamore Creek, a tidal stream, winds
along to Little Harbor and thence to the ocean.

At 5 m. the northern outskirts of the beautiful old township of Rye
are entered.

At 5.8 m. is a junction with the paved and marked Greenland
Road.

Right on this road about 1 50 yds. to the SITE OF THE CAPTURE OF BREAKFAST
HILL. A marker on top of a boulder (R) commemorates the capture of a number
of Indians here in 1696. Eating a leisurely breakfast following the massacre on
Portsmouth Plains the previous day, the Indians were surprised by Captain
Shackford and a company of soldiers, who killed them and rescued the captives
they had taken.

South of Rye Township US 1 runs through the prosperous village
of NORTH HAMPTON, 6.1 m. (99 alt., 695 pop.), around which
are green acres that are either cultivated by farmers whose titles go
back to the 17th century, or are beautiful estates of wealthy summer
residents; the latter are between the highway and the sea. Probably
settled first by Samuel and John Dearborn in 1 690, North Hampton
Town was the scene of many attacks by the Winnicummet Indians.
To withstand their onslaughts its early houses were strongly built of
wood backed with brick. Many of these are still standing. Formerly
a part of Hampton Town, North Hampton was incorporated in 1742.

At 8.5 m. is a junction with the paved and marked Atlantic Road.

1. Left on this road about 300 yds. is (L) the simple, white NORTH HAMPTON
TOWN HALL, in the belfry of which hangs a bell made by the Paul Revere
factory.

2. Right on Atlantic Road to NORTH HILL, on which stands NORTH HAMPTON
CENTER. High above the sunny meadows, the white meeting house dominates the
cluster of white farmhouses about the village green.

Where the green is bordered on the W. by the Post Road, a MILEPOST is set
in a stone wall. It reads:

"P
10
N
12"

(Portsmouth 10 miles, Newburyport 12). This post was erected by Benjamin
Franklin when he was Postmaster General under the Crown. South of this mile
post on the Post Road is a tablet (R) at 0.25 m., marking the SITE OF THE HOME
OF THE FIRST SETTLERS, Samuel and John Dearborn, and their descendant,

NEW HAMPSHIRE COAST

111

IRONWORKS HOUSE, SAUGUS, MASSACHUSETTS

PROVIDENCE HARBOR, RHODE ISLAND

HANNAH ROBINSON HOUSE, NARRAGANSETT, RHODE ISLAND

NEW HAMPSHIRE 49

Major General Henry Dearborn, who commanded the Army of the United
States at the outbreak of the second war with England in 1812.

It was over this section of the road that, by order of Richard
Waldron, constable of Dover, three Quaker women were dragged
from Dover and flogged. The order, issued in 1662, stated: "You and
every one of you are required in the King's Majesty's name to take
these vagabond Quakers, Anne Colman, Mary Tompkins, and Alice
Ambrose and make them fast to the cart's tail, and, driving the cart
through your several towns, to whip them upon their naked backs
not exceeding ten stripes apiece on each of them, in each town; and
so to convey them from constable to constable till they are out of this
jurisdiction, as you will answer it at your peril; and this is your
Warrant." Whittier drew a vivid picture of this episode in his poem,
How the Women Went from Dover:

"Bared to the waist for the north wind's grip
And keener sting of the constable's whip,
The blood that followed each hissing blow
Froze as it sprinkled the whiter snow.

"Priest and ruler, boy and maid
Followed the dismal cavalcade
And from door and window, open thrown,
Looked and wondered gaffer and crone."

Portunately, through the courage of Justice Robert Pike of Salis-
bury who trod the warrant underfoot, its provisions were carried out
only at Hampton and Dover.

HAMPTON, 10.9 m. (83 alt.; Hampton Town, 1,507 pop.), is a
compact little village, its streets lined with lofty elms. Hampton was
an outpost of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, which maintained a
blockhouse here in 1635 as a protection against the numerous Indian
attacks. The town was one of New Hampshire's four original towns
and the mother of many of the surrounding litde towns. A grant of
the land was given to a group of Englishmen led by the Reverend
Stephen Bachiler, who in 1638 sailed in shallops up the Winnicum-
met River "thru salt sea marshes to uplands brown." These pioneers,
with thoughts turning homeward to England, promptly changed the
lovely Indian name of Winnicummet (beautiful place in the pines) to
Hampton at the incorporation of the town in 1639.

Although today this is a farming and shoe manufacturing com-
munity on a small scale, the tang of the sea is in the air and strange

50 U. S. ONE

objects in the old houses are a heritage of the days when brigantines
and clipper ships put out from Hampton Harbor to sail the distant
seas.

Left on Winnicummet Road, which intersects US 1 in the village, is (R) the
FIRST CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, built in 1843; its pulpit is from the Fourth
Meeting House, erected in 1797.

On this road in a quiet grove of pines lies the old BURYING GROUND, 0.5 m.,
with its ancient stones (1654-1800) almost hidden by fragrant pine needles.

At 11.4 m. on US 1 is a large square house (R) surrounded by an
old-fashioned garden. This mansion is generally known as the home
of Gen. Jonathan Moulton of Revolutionary War fame and locally
as the HAUNTED HOUSE. A bit of the interior of the house, a fine speci-
men of Georgian architecture, has been pictured by Whittier in The
New Wife and the Old:

"From the oaken mantel glowing
Faintest light the lamp is throwing
On the mirror's antique mould
High-backed chair, and wainscot old."

Reputedly a miserly man, General Moulton is said to have shown
his thrift by removing the rings of his first wife at her death and pre-
senting them to the second wife. In revenge the first wife is said to
have returned and ever after haunted the place. The story goes, too,
that the general agreed to sell his soul to the devil for as much gold
as his boots would hold. The fireplace is pointed out as the place
where the general placed his boots with the toes cut off, so that when
the devil poured the money down the chimney it ran through the
boots. Thus the fiend was outwitted.

About 300 yds. from US 1 on a road that runs E. from the Haunted
House is the old MEETING HOUSE GREEN or Cow Commons, once the
heart of the village. Nearby is a LOG CABIN (open Wed. and Sat. aft.;
free), a reproduction of the first meeting house. The cabin's door was
formerly the front door of the Garrison House, built by Col. Joshua
Wingate on order of Governor Dudlye in 1703. Beside the cabin is
the TUCK MEMORIAL HOUSE (open. Wed. and Sat. aft.; free) with a his-
torical room containing many odd relics.

One of New England's most dreaded witches had her hut near the
log cabin; here she was buried "in a grave by a ditch." Goody Cole
was the fear of the countryside, for, it was charged, she had "made
a league with the devil" and with his aid was able to render persons

NEW HAMPSHIRE 51

deformed, to torture, and even to drown with an invisible hand.
Whittier speaks of her in The Wreck of Rivermouth:

" 'Fie on the witch !' cried a merry girl,
As they rounded the point where Goody Cole
Sat by her door with her wheel atwirl,
A bent and blear-eyed, poor old soul.
'Oho!' she muttered, 'ye're brave to-day!
But I hear the little waves laugh and say,
The broth will be cold that waits at home;
For it's one to go, but another to come !'"

Although none of the fantastic crimes attributed to witches could
be laid directly at Goody Cole's door, she was persecuted and im-
prisoned by the town for years. In 1673 her plea for liberty was re-
fused by Justice Jonas Clark of Salisbury Court in the following
decision, "In ye case of Unis Cole now prisoner at ye Bar not Legally
guilty according to Intitement butt just ground of vehement sus-
pissyon of her haveing had famillyarrty with the deiull."

Opposite the log cabin (R) is the attractive MEETING HOUSE
GREEN MEMORIAL PARK surrounded by a series of boulders marked
with the names of the earliest settlers. The park was the joint gift of
the towns that were once part of Hampton.

The salt marshes S. of Hampton figured rather prominently in the
commercial history of this part of New Hampshire. Extensive com-
mercial salt works were in operation on the edges of the marshes in
Colonial days to extract the salt from the grass, which was set in
cocks on the marsh to dry. A tide mill, of which there are no traces
at the present time, was built here in 1681 for the purpose of grinding
the town's corn in return for "a one-sixteenth part thereof," and was
active until 1879.

At Taylor River, 12.5 m., was the shipyard where vessels, some of
them of large tonnage, were built. At a bend in the stream known as
the Mooring Turn, vessels were accustomed to ride at anchor. Be-
ginning in 1682, many barques, brigantines, and sloops were built
and launched to sail for distant ports.

HAMPTON FALLS, 13.2 m. (62 alt.; Hampton Falls Town, 481
pop.), is a delightful village dignified by austere white churches.
Originally a part of Hampton Town, Hampton Falls was incor-
porated as a separate township in 1726. In the early part of the 18th
century this section was one of the busiest in all New England; saw-

52 U. S. ONE

mills, grist mills, shingle mills, woolen mills, cotton mills, and ferti-
lizer plants kept many workmen busy.

In stagecoach days the village was a post station where changes
of horses were made, from 100 to 125 horses being kept at one time
for that purpose. WELLSWOOD INN (L), then known as Wells Tavern,
was a stage house with 40 horses stabled across the road. So great was
the local interest in horses that a horse show was held in Hampton
Falls in 1726. Sunday travel was banned in those days and the
tithing men of Hampton Falls were very active in promptly arresting
and fining anyone so offending. The practice did not end until 1825.

On August 10, 1737, officials of New Hampshire and Massachu-
setts, forming an imposing cavalcade of stagecoaches, horseback
riders, and carriages, met here to determine the boundary line
between the two Colonies.

The MONUMENT in the square (R) was erected in memory of New
Hampshire's first Governor, Mesheck Weare, President of New
Hampshire from 1776-1784, who was born and lived here. Its
inscription reads:

"He was one of those good men
Who dare to love their country and be poor."

The GOVERNOR WEARE HOUSE on Exeter Road near the square,
built in 1748, is a splendid example of early Colonial architecture;
in it, according to well authenticated tradition, both Washington
and Lafayette were entertained.

ELMFIELD (L) is notable for its furnishings, which have been in
the house since its early days. The old place is still owned by the
Gove family, who built it in the early part of the 18th century. Ed-
ward Gove, grandfather of the present owner, was imprisoned for
several years in the Tower of London for taking part in a conspiracy
against Governor Crandon. He lived to spend his last years in this
house, an invalid as the result, he said, of poison administered during
his imprisonment.

Here John Greenleaf Whittier spent many summer vacations, and
here in 1892 he died in the room overlooking the lovely old-fashioned
rose garden. The log cabin and Colonial kitchen may be visited by
permission of the owner.

All of this region is Whittier land. The poet took great pride in
the fact that he was a lineal descendant of the Reverend Stephen

NEW HAMPSHIRE 53

Bachiler, founder of Hampton, and showed a lively interest in the
house of his ancestors.

1. Right from Hampton Falls on Exeter Road at 1.8 m. is (R) APPLECREST
FARM, which is most attractive in the spring when thousands of trees are in full
blossom, and in the fall when crimson fruit is being picked and packed in a model
packing house. Adjoining Applecrest Farm is (R) the two-story unpainted house
that was the BIRTHPLACE OF FRANKLIN B. SANBORN (1831-1917), journalist and
author. He was one of the three founders of the Concord Summer School of
Philosophy, and biographer of his friends Emerson, Thoreau, and Hawthorne.
The gray two-story house (R) is the BIRTHPLACE OF RALPH ADAMS CRAM, dis-
tinguished American architect. At 3.6 m. (L) is the old CRAM HOMESTEAD, an
unpainted house of dignified lines, built in 1 676.

2. Right from Hampton Falls on the Kensington Road to the FALLS OF FALLS
RIVER, 5 m., where formerly were situated a fulling mill, a grist mill, and a
sawmill run by water power. The mills have long since disappeared, but the
charm of the falls remains. On the river's bank is (R) the DODGE HOMESTEAD.
The original house, built in 1 648, was in 1 787 replaced by the present structure,
which retains many of the original features and pieces of furniture of the Colonial
structure.

A stone on the estate is by many local people considered proof that the Norse-
men landed in or near Hampton in the early llth century. Although covered
with dry moss a series of marks can be found chiseled in the stone; at first glance
these appear to be crosses such as the Indians used to guide their tribesmen
through the woods, but closer examination makes it clear that they are not
characteristic Indian symbols. They more nearly resemble the runic inscriptions
of the Norsemen.

Behind the house on the river bank is an EPISCOPAL CHAPEL, said to be the
smallest in the State; the little building of stone was fashioned from an old ice
house. The chapel is privately owned but is always open to the wayfarer. Worship-
ers are called together every Sunday afternoon at four by an old brass bell taken
from one of the ships built on the Hampton River in the early 1 8th century.

SEABROOK, 14.7 m. (65 alt.; Seabrook Town, 1,666 pop.), a
village with limited accommodations, is Old Worldish in appearance
and atmosphere. Its landscape has been unchanged for three cen-
turies; cocks of salt hay still dot the wide sand dunes beyond it as
they did in Colonial days.

For 57 years a part of Hampton Town, the Seabrook section was
settled in 1638 and did not become a separate township until 1768.
Living was especially precarious here in early days because of fre-
quent Indian attacks. The chief industry a century ago was the build-
ing of whaleboats, which set forth from Seabrook on fishing trips to
the coast of Labrador. The names of some of the original settlers

54 U. S. ONE

have come down for almost three hundred years, among them such
names as Byrd, Peavear, Boynton, and Bachiler.

A part of the people of Seabrook speak a language reminiscent
of rural England, and at times almost unintelligible to a visitor.
Once these people were expert shoemakers, doing all their work by
hand in ten-foot cabins; since the coming of machines the industry
has been conducted in a factory. The employees work when they
please and, if the mood suits them, sleep under a tree, in full view of
the factory. Members of a long-lived race, active and hearty, many
of them are working at the age of 90 years or more.

SEABROOK NURSERIES (L) in the season from May to September
exhibit 20 acres of gladioli in every possible variety and color. YE
COCK AND KETTLE INN (R) dates from the 18th century. The OLD
MAN OF SEABROOK (L), an antique shop, is so named because of the
curious figure of an old man hanging on its wall. The figure, orig-
inally a clothing store dummy in Newburyport, was brought to Sea-
brook about 40 years ago and placed in its present position.

At 15.1 m. US 1 crosses the Massachusetts Line.

MASSACHUSETTS

N.H. Line Newburyport Boston Dedham R.I. Line,
77.9m. US 1.

Boston & Maine R.R. S. of Boston, and the New York, New Haven & Hartford

R.R. parallel the route at intervals.

Good, hard-surfaced roadbed, mostly three and four lanes wide.

Usual accommodations at short intervals.

Section 6. New Hampshire Line to Rhode Island Line, 77.9 m.

US 1 is the most direct route, though not the most scenic, between
Portsmouth, New Hampshire, and Pawtucket, Rhode Island. Even
in the days of stagecoaches the section of highway between Newbury-
port and Boston, the Newburyport Turnpike, was known as the
"airline route" because of its unwavering course. In its 35 miles it
deviates only 83 ft. from a straight line; it runs through pleasant farm
lands N. of Newburyport, then over the glacial hills of Topsfield and
Danvers. At Lynnfield it runs through flat country as it passes Sun-
taug Lake between the red rock outcrops of Saugus, on the outskirts
of Boston. There are no unnecessary hindrances to traffic in Boston
on the through route, which follows a wooded parkway with over-
passes and a staggered system of traffic lights. South of Boston the
road, locally called the Providence Turnpike, is an express highway
traversing only one center of size, North Attleboro, thence crossing
rolling country, largely undeveloped.

At 2.4 m. is SALISBURY (15 alt.; town pop. 2,245, incorp.
1640). In the tiny triangular green (L) is the QUAKER WHIPPING
STONE, originally the stepping stone of the Friends' Meeting House,
built in Salisbury in 1752; it marks the site of Maj. Robert Pike's
championship of three Quaker women who had been ordered tied to
the tail of an oxcart and whipped (see Section 5).

About 20 yds. N. of the square, on US 1, a marker (L) indicates
the SITE OF THE BETSY GERRISH HOUSE, within whose narrow walls
was held a session of the General Court. At that time the community
was a "shire town" and the only settlement N. of the Merrimac
River.

On State 110, 200 yds. R. of the square, is the green known as
POTLID SQUARE. A boulder here marks the SITE OF THE FIRST LOG
CHURCH OF SALISBURY (1640) and the SITE OF THE COURTHOUSE

56 U. S. ONE

built in the same year. Settlers moved here in 1638 from Newbury,
Mass., and Salisbury, England, and in attempting to develop the
fishing, shipbuilding, and cooperage industries, incurred the hostil-
ity of the Indians, who resented the depletion of their food supply and
of the forests.

Left from Salisbury on State 1A to the old BURYING GROUND, at the junction of
State 1A and Beach Rd., laid out in 1639. This cemetery holds large flat stones
known as "wolf slabs," which were placed on the ground to protect the graves of
the early settlers from hungry wolves. Here are buried Maj. Robert Pike and the
first five ministers of Salisbury.

At 2.1 m. is SALISBURY BEACH (salt-water swimming pool, recreation equip-
ment).

Along the three-lane concrete highway no vestiges remain of the
dark forest that once menaced the dooryards of the early inhabitants.
At 4.2 m. is the junction with First St.

Left on First St. are the remnants of the original settlement of Salisbury, the
Ring's Island section. The sharply rising bank (L) and the tiny creek (R), 0.1 m.,
were the SITE OF THE FISH FLAKES AND SHIPYARDS of early days. Up the steep
slope were once wheeled barrows of fish, brought from Labrador and Chaleur
Bay, to be spread in the sun on drying racks or "flakes." The SITE OF THE OLD
FERRY SLIP, 0.2 m., on the bank of the Merrimac River, is identified by rotting
timbers at the water's edge. At 0.3 m. (L) stands the NATHAN DOLE HOUSE
(open by arrangement), built in 1680, and once occupied by the poet, Edna St.
Vincent Millay. Nearby is MARCHES TAVERN, built in 1690 by John March, who
ran the ferry connecting the settlement with Newbury and other nearby port
towns. Seaward from the tavern are INDIAN SHELL HEAPS, now appearing as
green mounds in the distance across the marshes. These accumulations of broken
clam shells mark the spot where, in the summer months, the Indians gathered to
fish in the Merrimac, before returning at the approach of winter to the protection
of the inland woods.

At 4.5 m. US 1 passes over the bridge that crosses the Merrimac
River. The road affords glimpses of the waterfront, a short stretch
of business section, and the white spires rising above the foliage of
the residential parts of Newburyport.

At 5 m. (L) is a glimpse of the rear wall and the squat stone frame
of the old COUNTY JAIL (1744), its spiked metal fence imbedded in the
rock base; during the Revolution, British privateersmen were
shackled to its floor. Beyond are the ancient stones of the old HILL
BURYING GROUND, holding the remains of soldiers of the French and
Indian, Revolutionary, and Civil Wars. Here also is buried the self-
styled "Lord" Timothy Dexter (1743-1806), eccentric Newburyport

MASSACHUSETTS 57

merchant who made a fortune by speculating in depreciated Colonial
currency and in such trading deals as the sale of warming pans.

Along the highway are level stretches that were once the com-
mons, where townsfolk pastured their flocks and herds; there is a
shaded residential area (L).

NEWBURYPORT, 5 m. (57 alt., pop. 14,815), historic port (see
MASS. GUIDE).

Points of Interest. Caldwell Rum Distilleries, Old County Jail, Jackson-Dexter
House, St. Paul's Church, Sumner House, Brown Park and Garrison Statue,
Old South Church, and others.

From the western edge of Newburyport US 1 traverses the wooded
and farming sections of N. Essex County.
At 7.4 m. is the junction with a dirt road.

Left on this road is a junction, 0.5 m., with a marked side road leading to
DEVIL'S BASIN, 1.6 m. Geologists find in this abandoned quarry fine specimens of
brittle dolomized rock, green- and yellow-veined serpentine, and masses of
vesuvianite.

At 8.4 m. US 1 crosses the PARKER RIVER, at this point a narrow
stream in the midst of vivid green marshes. At 9.1 m. (R), set back
from the road, is the GOVERNOR DUMMER ACADEMY, a boarding
school established in 1762. The original schoolhouse, standing among
the clapboarded dormitories built at a later date, is a one-story
building typical of the little district schoolhouses that were once the
backbone of New England's school system. The finest building on the
campus is the GOVERNOR DUMMER MANSION (1715), now occupied
by the headmaster. Shaded by arching elms, this building is an out-
standing example of early American-Georgian architecture. The
carved detail of the doorway merits close inspection.

Several ghost stories center around the mansion. It is said that
whenever August has two full moons, on the night of the first moon
Governor Dummer rides his white horse up the broad staircase as he
did on the night of the grand housewarming in 1715. Another story
concerns the smiling ghost of a child who peeped through the kitchen
doorway. Not until her bones were discovered in a moldering box in
the cellar and given proper burial, did the little apparition vanish.
It is also averred that the ghost of an English officer who was killed
in a duel on the lawn occasionally reappears in full-dress uniform,
with powdered wig embroidered cloak, and sword.

58 U. S. ONE

At 12.3 m. is the intersection with State 133.

Right on this road is GEORGETOWN, 4.9 m. (81 alt.; town pop. 2,009,
incorp. 1838), offspring of the town of Rowley and one of the later settlements in
Essex County. A local story is that land grants in the district were restricted by
Ezekiel Rogers, head of the Rowley Company, so that Oliver Cromwell might
find a refuge here in the eventuality that his political efforts to dethrone Charles
I should be unsuccessful.

The BROCKLEBANK HOUSE (adm,free), about 0.4 m. from the common on State
1 33, was built in 1 670. This attractive gambrel-roofed dwelling was the home of
Capt. Samuel Brocklebank, who was killed in King Philip's War. An old sign of
the White Horse Tavern (1773) swings in front of it.

At 5.8 m. on State 133 is the junction with a dirt road; L. here to the summit
of BALDPATE HILL (312 alt.), a high point in Essex County, affording a view of
green valleys and distant hills. This road passes two 18th century houses with
steep-pitched roofs, and at 1 m. (R) reaches BALDPATE INN (still a hotel). The inn
has paneled walls and old-time fireplaces and furnishings.

At 17.3 m. US 1 crosses State 97.

Right on State 97 is TOPSFIELD, 0.6 m. (59 alt.; town pop. 1,113, incorp.
1648), which is built up around a lovely green and has the appearance of a town
of old New England. Near the green are the CIVIL WAR MEMORIAL, representing
a dying soldier handing the colors to a comrade, and the PEACE MEMORIAL
dedicated to "Men and Women of Topsfield who helped to restore peace to a
world at war, 1914-1918." Across from the memorials stands the PUBLIC LI-
BRARY containing murals of historic scenes, the work of Harold Kellogg, its
architect, as well as collections of rare books and objects of historical interest.
Nearby are the high school, the town hall, and the white-spired Congregational
Church. Nothing remains to indicate that Topsfield was something of a boom
town in Colonial times. In 1648 bog iron was dug and smelted at the Boxford
Iron Works; excitement ran high when a copper vein was struck on the Endicott
grant. Mining, however, proved unprofitable, and agriculture continued to be
the mainstay of the town.

In the center of the village (R) is an old three-story, square, brick house with
wooden ends. Near it, branching R. between the white church and the green, is
an unmarked lane that passes through a pasture gate, meadows, and woods, to
the PARSON CAPEN HOUSE (open in summer; adm. 70), which has been restored by
the local historical society. A two-story structure (1683) of the type intended to
withstand Indian attacks, it has an unusually deep second-story overhang,
steeply pitched roof, central chimney, many-paned casement windows, and
carved door brackets. On the corners of the overhang are pineapple drops. The
Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City has reproduced the kitchen in its
American wing. Furnishings, of the period when the house was built, include a
chair-table, a wooden bread-trough, wooden plates, and mugs. A brick oven is
inside a fireplace 8^ ft. wide.

It is said that a maid servant of Parson Capen lost her soul by reading an im-
proper book on the Sabbath; when Satan appeared to claim his booty the

MASSACHUSETTS 59

parson challenged him to a contest, with the terrified girl as the prize. Spilling
half a bushel of flaxseed on the floor, the parson engaged to read a section of the
Bible backwards before Satan could pick up the seed. The devil lost the contest
and, in chagrin, vanished through a rat hole that has also been preserved.

The GHOATE HOUSE (private) is a two-story, hip-roofed, white frame building
on a grassy terrace, above a shaded lawn surrounded by a fence with ball-topped
posts. It has a parapet, four corner chimneys, a front doorway with an unusually
fine fan light, and a Doric-columned portico.

State 97, N. of Topsfield, passes the PINE GROVE CEMETERY, 1 m. (L), contain-
ing stones dating back to 1663. Here are buried ancestors of Joseph Smith,
founder of Mormonism. Next to the burial ground once stood a meeting house,
built in 1663. In 1675, during King Philip's War, it was inside a palisade, with a
watch house hi the SE. corner.

At 3.2 m. (R), with a large elm by the door, is the PERLEY-HALE-PERKINS
HOUSE (private), built in 1760 by Maj. Asa Perkins. The fine old weatherbeaten
house has a long roof and central chimney.

At 3.5 m. is the junction with Depot St.

Left 0.5 m. on Depot St. are (R) the extensive grounds of the KELSEY-HIGH-
LANDS NURSERY, equipped with a private airport. At 0.6 m. (R) stands the pic-
turesque CHAPLIN'S SAWMILL.

BOXFORD, 5.2 m. on State 97 (95 alt.; town pop. 726, incorp. 1694), is a
village in an unspoiled stretch of low rolling hills dotted with several large lakes.
So salubrious was the air here in 1855 that the town physician remarked with
regret that he might as well practice in heaven. The first settler, Abraham Red-
dington, arrived in 1645. The community has always been predominantly agri-
cultural in its activities, though it has had various small industries to supply
local needs and at one time had sawmills that prepared lumber for the shipyards
along the coast. The single melodramatic episode in Boxford's peaceful history
was the Ames murder trial of 1769. This trial was one of the few in New Eng-
land at which the ordeal by touch was employed a test based on the idea that
the wounds of a corpse would bleed if the murderer touched the body.

Left of the green is the FIRST CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, a white meeting house
with a long row of horse stalls. On the opposite side of Depot Street is JOURNEY'S
END (open in summer by permission), the residence of Frank A. Manny, author.
This clapboarded, gambrel-roofed house contains an interesting historical collec-
tion. In the garden is a miniature sand village, Boxford in the 80's, which inspired
Stanley Hall to write the Story of a Sandpile, a contribution to the modern play-
ground movement.

On Elm St., a few hundred feet from Journey's End, is the PUBLIC LIBRARY
(R), housing a small collection of historical exhibits.

At 17.1 m. (L) is a view across far stretches of rolling hills and
woodlands.

At 17.8 m. (L) is the TOPSFIELD FAIR GROUNDS (agricultural ex-
hibits^ races annually in mid-September).

At 20.1 m. (R) is an old MILESTONE, with B (Boston) and P (Port-
land) cut deep into the granite. Here US 1 twists through wooded

6o U. S. ONE

and open land, passing at 21.6 m. (R) the turreted red brick struc-
ture of the DANVERS STATE HOSPITAL FOR THE INSANE (visiting 2-4
p.m.; special hours for groups interested in the work), crowning the highest
hill in the township.

US 1 passes pine groves, PURITAN LAWN MEMORIAL PARK (a
cemetery), and SUNTAUG LAKE at 26 m. (R).

At 26.7 m. is SOUTH LYNNFIELD (77 alt.), a crossroads vil-
lage at the junction with State 128.

Right on State 128 0.4 m. is the junction with Summer St.; R. on Summer St.
to FILLINGS POND (boating, bathing, and fishing), 1.8 in. (R).

LYNNFIELD, 3 m. on Summer St. (136 alt., town pop. 1,896), is a little
village on a plateau. It was settled in 1638 and known as Lynn End until the
town was incorporated in 1782. Many of the residents of the town are employed
in the nearby industrial centers.

Grouped around the shaded green are small white houses of Colonial type. On
the green is the WAR MEMORIAL BOULDER. At the base of the triangular plot the
former FIRST CHURCH (1714), outwardly unchanged, houses the town's fire
apparatus. Left of the green, on a tree-shaded hillock, are the lichen-covered
stones of the old BURYING GROUND, containing the graves of the first three min-
isters of the old church and a number of Revolutionary War soldiers. One of the
latter, Martin Herrick, was sent by the Committee of Safety to help spread the
alarm on the eve of the Battle of Lexington. The epitaphs on some of the old
grave stones are unconventional.

At 27.9 m. (R) is the LYNN RESERVOIR; at 28.8 m. US 1 skirts
the 580-acre BREAKHEART RESERVATION in North Saugus, a State-
owned tract with trails, picnic grounds, lookouts, and parking spaces.

At 29.1 m. is the junction with Lynn Fells Parkway.

Right on the parkway at 1.2 m. is the junction with Howard St. At 7 Howard
St. is the "SCOTCH" BOARDMAN HOUSE (private). Once the home of the Indian
Queen Nanepashemet, this house (1651) later served as quarters for the Scottish
prisoners captured by Cromwell at the Battle of Dunbar, who were sentenced to
seven years' servitude in New England and indentured to the Saugus iron works.
During frequent boundary changes, the dwelling has been in two counties and
four towns. The original boundary between Lynn and Boston ran through the
middle of the front door, which for many years bore the letters B and L on its
two halves. The roof reaching almost to the ground, the broken line of the central
chimney, and the second-story overhang are typical of the local architecture of the
period in which the house was built.

At 30.3 m. is a junction with Main St.

Left on Main St. is SAUGUS CENTER, 0.7 m. (20 alt.; town pop. 15,076,
incorp. 1815). John Winthrop, son of Governor Winthrop, having learned of
deposits here of bog-ore similar to that smelted in Sussex, England, went to

MASSACHUSETTS 61

England in 1641 to organize a company to exploit the ore. Two years later he
returned with capital and skilled ironworkers. In 1645, under the management
of Richard Leader, the plant had an output of 8 to 10 tons a week, and in a few
years had achieved a rate of production beyond the needs of the Colony. Among
the articles made were the first fire engine (1654), kettles, anchors, bar iron and
wrought iron for blacksmiths, and the first dies for coining money in America.
These dies, used by the mint in Boston, were for cast-silver pieces with "the
word Massachusetts with a pine tree on one side, and the letters N.E. ANNO
1652, and III, VI, or XII, denoting the number of pence, on the other." Diffi-
culties with the ironworkers and financial backers brought the enterprise to ruin,
however, and the indentured Scottish servants proved even less amenable than
the paid workers. At the break-up of Hammersmith, as the mill was then called,
the more skilled workers set up forges and blooming mills throughout New
England.

Except for this venture, Saugus was largely agricultural through the first two
centuries of its existence. Several factories that were opened in the 19th century
turned out a variety of products snuff, chocolate, nails, and shoes but these
industries declined and the town today is purely residential.

Clustered about the green are a GRAVEYARD, a CIVIL WAR MONUMENT, and the
TOWN HALL. Close by, on Central St., is the restored old IRONWORKS HOUSE
(private), built in 1643 by Farmer Thomas Dexter, founder of the ironworks.
The house (see illustration) has diamond-paned casement windows, nail-studded
doors, and an immense central chimney. Carved wooden ornaments, some of
which are shaped like acorns, accent the acute angle of the roof line and hang
from the second story. The beams of English oak in the center are exposed. It is
said that the builder, little dreaming of the vast forests of the New World, brought
timber with him from England for the framework. The fireplaces are at least 12
ft. wide, and contain pothooks and cranes supposed to have been made at the
forge, the site of which is across the road.

Nearby are grass-covered cinder banks, relics of the early industrial venture.

At 32.5 m. (R) is a granite milestone marking an old INDIAN
TRAIL. According to tradition, William Richard and Ralph Sprague,
the first white men to pass through this region, used this trail on their
way from Salem (Naumkeag) to Charlestown (Mishawam) in
1629.

At 32.8 m. is a junction with Salem St.

Right on this street is MALDEN, 1.5 m. (12 alt., city pop. 37,277), an in-
dustrial city (see MASS. GUIDE).

Points of Interest. Gould- Webster Homestead, Waitt's Mount, City Hall, Par-
sonage House, Greene House, and others.

The SOLDIERS' MONUMENT, 34.9 m., on the corner of Broadway
and Webster Sts., is an imposing bronze statue on a granite base
erected to commemorate Everett men who served in the Spanish-

62 U. S. ONE

American War and with the American troops sent to China during
the Boxer Rebellion.

EVERETT, 35.1 m. (12 alt., 47,228 pop.), an industrial center
(see MASS. GUIDE).

Points of Interest. Parlin Library, Mystic Iron Works, Glendale Park, Immacu-
late Conception Church, and others.

At 36.7 m. the Mystic River is crossed, and US 1 follows tne
Northern Artery, one of the main routes for traffic to and from Boston.
At 38 m. is the junction with Somerville Ave.

Right on Somerville Ave. is SOMERVILLE, 0.5 m. (13 alt., town pop. 100,-
733), an industrial city (see MASS. GUIDE).

Points of Interest. Old Powder House, Samuel Tufts House, Ford Motor Co.
Plant, Magoun House, and others.

Between Somerville and Cambridge, US 1 passes through a highly
industrial area with a number of meat-packing plants.

At 39 m. US 1 turns R. on Memorial Drive, which runs along the
beautiful Charles River, and passes the buildings of Massachusetts
Institute of Technology, 40.1 m. (R), and (L) the Harvard Bridge
and the boathouses used by the M.I.T. and Harvard crews. Here is a
junction with Massachusetts Ave.

Right on this avenue to the center of CAMBRIDGE, 1 m. (9 alt., town pop.
118,075), an educational center (see MASS. GUIDE).

Points of Interest. Harvard University, Massachusetts Institute of Technology,
Radcliffe College, Sargent College, Christ Church, Fogg Art Museum, Long-
fellow House, and others.

At 41.2 m. US 1 turns L. and crosses Cottage Farm Bridge to
Commonwealth Ave., 41.3 m.

Left on Commonwealth Ave. 2.5 m. is the center of BOSTON (8 alt., city
pop. 817,713), historical and industrial city (see MASS. GUIDE).

Railroad Stations. B. & M. R.R., North Station, 120 Causeway St.; Boston &
Albany R.R., and N.Y., N.H., & H.R.R., South Station, Atlantic Ave. and
Summer St.; Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn R.R., Rowe's Wharf, 350 Atlantic
Ave. (ferry to East Boston) ; East Boston Terminal, Marginal St. near Jeffries.

Points of Interest. Boston Athenaeum, Public Library, Bunker Hill Monument,
Charlestown Navy Yard and "Old Ironsides," Faneuil Hall, King's Chapel and
Burying Ground, Museum of Fine Arts, Museum of Natural History, and many
others.

MASSACHUSETTS 63

At 42.8 m. US 1 follows the Jamaicaway, a boulevard running
through an area where natural beauty has been conserved, and skirts
JAMAICA POND.

At a traffic circle, 44.9 m., the route turns R. into a four-lane high-
way that passes the ARNOLD ARBORETUM, 45.8 m., and continues
through a section of West Roxbury.

At 50.5 m. US 1 passes over MOTHER BROOK, dug in 1639, the
first canal in America. It connects the Charles and Neponset Rivers,
thus making Boston an island.

The road skirts (R) the picturesque village of DEDHAM, 51.6 m.
(118 alt.; town pop. 15,371, incorp. 1636), historic town (see MASS.
GUIDE).

Points of Interest. Thayer House, Norfolk County Courthouse, St. Paul's Epis-
copal Church, Fairbanks House, and others.

US 1 rises and dips through steep embankments, woodlands, and
open fields.

At 58.3 m. is the junction with Moose Hill Rd.

Left on this road to the entrance of the OBSERVATORY AND BIRD SANCTUARY
at Moose Hill (540 alt.), 2 m. The sanctuary, containing more than 2,000 acres,
is in the charge of the Massachusetts Audubon Society.

At 62.5 m., adjoining the highway are the extensive farm lands
(R) of the FOXBOROUGH STATE HOSPITAL FOR MENTAL DISEASES, a
well-equipped institution.

At 62.4 m. is the junction with Water St.

Right on this street is SOUTH WALPOLE, 0.2 m. (200 alt.). On the corner
of Neponset and Washington Sts. (L) stands FULLER'S TAVERN (open), a rambling,
white building. Around it are great shade trees and a garden of lilacs, syringas,
and perennials. This inn, built in 1807 and renovated in 1927, was a famous
halfway house on the stagecoach route between Boston and Providence.

US 1 skirts the edge of TURNPIKE LAKE, 68.4 m., and reaches
an elevation permitting a wide view of the countryside.

At 70.6 m. is the junction with State 1 A (N. Washington St.), an
alternate to US 1 for a few miles.

Right on State 1A, at 362 N. Washington St. (R), is the WOODCOCK HOUSE,
0.1 m. In 1669 John Woodcock made the first permanent settlement in the
North Purchase now North Attleboro and established a tavern that, during
its 170 years of service (1670-1840), was visited by many celebrities. In its earliest
days the hostelry was one of a chain of garrisons reaching from Boston to Rhode

64 U. S. ONE

Island. Woodcock, wounded seven times in his encounters with Indians, killed
many of them. In revenge they killed his son, Nathaniel, and placed his scalp
on a stick in the old BURYING GROUND opposite the tavern.

NORTH ATTLEBORO, 1.4 m. (183 alt.; town pop. 10,202, incorp. 1887),
was formerly in Attleboro Town.

In 1780 a person who has survived in local history as "the Frenchman"
established a jewelry business; this line of activity eventually became paramount
in the town and declined only in recent years.

The NORTH ATTLEBORO HISTORICAL SOCIETY HEADQUARTERS (open 3rd Tues.
of each month, 2-5 p.m.), 224 Washington St., is a two-and-a-half-story, clap-
boarded house with slate roof. The adjacent barn contains a number of historical
relics.

At 1.8 m. State 1A rejoins US 1.

At 73.9 m. is the junction with Allen Rd.

Right on Allen Rd. 0.3 m. to the junction with the Old Post Rd.; L. here to
the FIRST CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, 0.9 m. (L), a clapboarded structure built
in 1712.

Right from the Old Post Rd., opposite the church, 0.2 m. on Mount Hope
St., to a footpath (L) leading to the old POWDER HOUSE (1768), a circular brick
building 12 ft. in diameter with a shingled conical roof. During the Revolutionary
War and the War of 1812 ammunition was stored here.

In the BRICK SHOP, 1 m. on the Old Post Rd., some of the first metal buttons
in the United States were manufactured. The first die used in the jewelry business
in this country was cut here by the Robinson-Jones Co. The two-and-a-half-story
brick structure was built in 1812, and still contains some of the original equip-
ment; it is used as a chemical laboratory by the sons of the present owner.

At 77.9 m. US 1 traverses an old stone bridge and crosses the
Rhode Island Line.

RHODE ISLAND

Mass. Line Pawtucket Providence Narragansett Conn.
Line, 60m. US 1.

New York, New Haven & Hartford R.R. parallels this route.

Paved highway, some of it four-lane.

Accommodations of all kinds in Providence; limited accommodations elsewhere.

Section 7. Massachusetts Line to Connecticut Line, 60 m.

The northern section of this route goes through the industrial and
commercial area of the State, through Providence, the capital city,
and its thickly populated environs of Pawtucket and Cranston. South
of the latter city the route passes through a less densely settled section
of the State, through the coastal townships of Warwick, East Green-
wich, Narragansett, and the Kingstowns, which are rich in historic
interest. The road in many places affords pleasant views of a pros-
perous farming country, and of the waters of Narragansett Bay and
the Atlantic Ocean.

South of the Massachusetts Line US 1 runs for about three miles
through the eastern section of Pawtucket.

PAWTUCKET, 1.5 m. (25 alt., 77,149 pop.), industrial city
(see R.I. GUIDE).

Points of Interest. Old Slater Mill, Old Pidge Tavern, Daggett House Museum,
St. Mary's Church of the Immaculate Conception, New City Hall, Narragansett
Park, and others.

US 1 bypasses many of the historic sites of this old city to run on
Broadway past small stores and tenements.

At 1.7 m. is the Division St. Bridge over the Pawtucket River,
which once provided water power for the Slater cotton mill and
other early textile factories. At the W. end of the bridge, the road
turns (L) on Pawtucket Ave., on which is the PIDGE TAVERN, 3.1 m.
(L), said to be the oldest house in Rhode Island; the right end of this
substantial two-and-a-half-story building faces the street.

At 3.2 m. is the Pawtucket-Providence boundary line.

PROVIDENCE, 5.7 m. (12 alt., 252,981 pop.), State capital (see
R.I. GUIDE).

Points of Interest. Brown University, State House, Roger Williams Park, Rhode
Island Historical Society, Rhode Island School of Design (arts and crafts), and
numerous historic houses.

66 U. S. ONE

The city (see illustration), second largest in New England, is entered
from the N. on Main St., once an Indian trail. Opposite the old
JEREMIAH DEXTER HOUSE, 957 N. Main St., is the NORTH BURIAL
GROUND, set aside in 1700 for a "training field, burying ground,
and other public uses." Many famous Rhode Islanders are interred
here.

Branching R. from N. Main St. at 4.3 m., the well-marked high-
way twists deviously through a number of side streets lying a short
distance W. of the center of the city. From State St., beside the main
line of the railroad (L), can be seen ST. PATRICK'S CHURCH (R), the
STATE OFFICE BUILDING and the STATE HOUSE (R).

Turning R. on Fountain St., US 1 passes the rear of the PUBLIC
LIBRARY and veers (L) into Franklin St.

At 6.9 m. is a junction with Elmwood Ave., at which is GRACE
CHURCH CEMETERY (L). US 1 turns (R) on Elmwood Ave.

At the junction with Reservoir Ave., 8 m., is a bronze STATUE OF
COLUMBUS (R), modeled by Bartholdi, the sculptor of the Statue of
Liberty in New York Harbor, and originally cast in silver for the
1893 World's Fair in Chicago.

At 8.8 m. is an entrance to beautiful ROGER WILLIAMS PARK (L), a
recreational area containing lakes, gardens, shady drives, tennis
courts, the Benedict Memorial to Music, the Betsy Williams House
(1773), a zoo, and a museum.

At 9.6 m. is the Providence- Cranston boundary line. The highway
runs through the eastern outskirts of the city of CRANSTON (see
R.I. GUIDE}, an industrial city.

In the southern part of the city US 1 traverses a fairly open coun-
tryside, dotted here and there with large factories manufacturing
wire goods, textile machinery, and fire extinguishers.

At 10.6 m. is the Cranston-Warwick boundary line. The 42-
square-mile city of Warwick has no metropolitan center; within its
limits are more than a dozen villages separated by large tracts of
woodland and open fields. At the end of Elmwood Ave., 11.5 m.,
US 1 bears R. on the old Boston Post Road, the route between New
York and Boston that has been heavily traveled since Colonial days.
In this flat and sparsely wooded section is the STATE AIRPORT, 12.9
m. (L), opened in the spring of 1936.

South of GREENWOOD BRIDGE, at 14.5 m., is the residential village
of GREENWOOD (Warwick City, 50 alt.).

RHODE ISLAND 67

At 15.1 m., on the outskirts of Apponaug, GORTON POND (R)
provides good fresh-water fishing and bathing.

Near Gorton Pond US 1 bears R. into Main St., village of AP-
PONAUG (20 alt.), 15.7 m., the shopping district and the adminis-
trative center of the "city" of Warwick (see R.L GUIDE).

The ARMORY OF THE KENTISH ARTILLERY, R. on Main St., is occu-
pied by a company organized during the Revolution and chartered in
1797.

In Apponaug Four Corners the road turns L. and passes through
the attractive residential village of COWESETT, 17 m. (Warwick
City, 20-200 alt.). The large estates on the ridge (R) command an
extensive view of East Greenwich Bay (L).

At 18.3 m. is the Warwick- East Greenwich boundary line.

EAST GREENWICH, 18.5 m. (East Greenwich Town, 40 alt.,
3,666 pop., incorp. 1677), is a village, the center of a town that was a
part of Providence County until Kent County was formed in 1750.
Many of the first settlers were veterans of King Philip's War. In pre-
Revolutionary days the community produced pottery from coarse
red clay dug from the vicinity of Quidnesset and fired in local kilns.
The resulting product was of inferior grade, but pride in local indus-
try gave it preference over English pottery. At the present time East
Greenwich manufactures textiles and textile machinery, and ships
tons of Rhode Island shellfish to other States. Though much of the
township land is stony, truck gardens cover the more fertile acres.

In the village, which is built on the side of a long hill (R) facing
Greenwich Bay, are many early American houses. On the SE. corner
of Division and Pierce Sts. is the CAPT. JOHN CONGDON HOUSE (1711),
a two-story frame structure with a gambrel roof. On the SW. corner
of the same intersection is the ELDREDGE HOUSE, a large, white, frame
house (about 1757). This building was bought in 1788 by Nathan
Greene, who opened the first tannery in town. The SALTPETER LOT
(L) is the place where Richard Mathewson and Earl Mowry manu-
factured gunpowder for the Continental Army.

WINDMILL COTTAGE, (L) at Division and West Sts., is so called
because of the four-story hexagonal windmill attached to its W. side.
This house (about 1818) was bought in 1866 by Henry Wadsworth
Longfellow for his friend, George Washington Greene, diplomat,
historian, and professor; Greene was a grandson of Gen. Nathanael
Greene of Revolutionary fame.

68 U. S. ONE

Nearly opposite Windmill Cottage on Division St. (R) is the Gov.
WILLIAM GREENE HOMESTEAD, or Samuel Gorton, Jr., House, the
outstanding Colonial relic in this part of the State. It is a substantial
white wooden structure, two and a half stories high, the main section
rectangular in plan, with the long rear slope of the roof extending
lower than does the front. An addition at the rear gives the house an
L shape. The date of construction (1680) shown on the central stone
chimney, pilastered and capped, probably the end chimney of the
original house, applies to only the west end. The ell in the north end
has a beautiful, pedimented doorway. Since 1718 this house has been
in possession of the Greene family, and it was here that Gen. Na-
thanael Greene met and married Catherine Littlefield in 1774. The
future general was very fond of dancing with his fiancee, notwith-
standing his father's efforts to "whip him out of such idle propensi-
ties."

At the junction of Division St. and Howland Rd. a marker states
that in September 1774 a Tory mob gathered to destroy the village
of East Greenwich.

On Howland Rd. is the DANIEL HOWLAND HOUSE (1677), a typical
early small New England farmhouse.

On Main St. (L) near the town boundary line is the VARNUM
MEMORIAL ARMORY (1914), erected in honor of Gen. James Mitchell
Varnum. This brick building with castellated roof holds interesting
historical relics in its museum.

In this same closely built section (L) is the GREENE HOUSE, 86 Main
St., a two-story frame building (1724). The addition on the northern
end contained (1804) the first bank in East Greenwich. Albert C.
Greene, United States Senator (1845-51), once lived here.

On Pierce St. near the FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH is the GENERAL
VARNUM HOUSE (1733), a handsome, square, two-story frame house
with low-pitched roof. The front door opens on a small porch with a
roof supported by Ionic columns. The fine interior woodwork in the
northeast parlor was copied by Stanford White for the Women's
Building of the Jamestown Exposition. Varnum was the first colonel
of the Kentish Guards, formed during the Revolution. Later he was a
brigadier general in the Continental Army and judge for the North-
west Territory. Washington, Lafayette, and Thomas Paine were
guests in this old mansion.

Nearby is the ARMORY OF THE KENTISH GUARDS, a small frame

RHODE ISLAND 69

structure with Doric pillars framing the central doorway. In the
summer of 1 774, 56 citizens of Kent County met to establish a mili-
tary company. At the October session of the General Assembly they
were granted the right to incorporate as an independent company
under the name of the Kentish Guards. The company was, and still
is, subject only to the orders of the Governor.

Opposite the armory is the EAST GREENWICH ACADEMY, a private
coeducational school, founded in 1802 and first known as Kent Acad-
emy. In 1841 it was sold to the Providence Conference of the Metho-
dist Episcopal Church. Dr. Eben Tourgee, who founded the New
England Conservatory of Music in Boston, established the music
department in this school. The original building was moved to
Spring St. and is the headquarters of the EAST GREENWICH HISTORI-
CAL SOCIETY.

Also on Pierce St. is the FRIENDS MEETING HOUSE (about 1804),
where the many Quakers in this section, among them the prominent
Greene family, gathered. Since the sect has nearly died out in this
neighborhood, the old structure is seldom opened except on Quar-
terly Meeting Day, when members gather from all over the State to
transact the business of the society.

Another historic building is the CAPT. THOMAS ARNOLD HOUSE
(about 1735), 28 King St., where lived the first Federal Collector of
Customs for the Port of East Greenwich. At the foot of this short
street is the SECOND KENT COUNTY JAIL, built in 1804 and still in use,
though much enlarged. Over the door of the old house formerly stood
two painted wooden figures, chained together one of a v/hite man,
the other of a Negro signifying that justice implies impartiality to
men of all races. These figures are now in possession of the Rhode
Island Historical Society. On a hill at the end of Wine St., near King
St., is the old BAPTIST BURIAL GROUND, dating back to 1729.

On the corner of Main and Court Sts. (R) is the KENT COUNTY
COURTHOUSE (1750). This square, three-and-a-half-story frame struc-
ture with its clock tower is Georgian in character. Here the convention
for the framing of the Rhode Island Constitution met in September
1842. The exterior of this beautiful building has remained un-
changed, but the interior has been entirely remodeled. In the early
days the courtyard had on one side of its walk a liberty pole and on
the other side the pillory and whipping post. The ELDREDGE MEMO-
RIAL FOUNTAIN now stands in the courtyard where once were the

70 U. S. ONE

town pump and horse trough. At the end of Court St. is the DR.
PETER TURNER HOUSE (about 1774), home of a Revolutionary Army
surgeon.

Diagonally across Main St. from the courthouse is the Greenwich
Inn (L) on the SITE OF THE COL. WILLIAM ARNOLD TAVERN (1770),
later called the Updike Tavern. Abraham Lincoln stopped here
overnight hi 1860. The old tavern, scene of the organization of the
Kentish Guards, was razed in 1896 to make way for the present hotel.

A few yards S. of the inn (L) is the METHODIST CHURCH (1833).
In 1850 the old church, being too small for the growing congregation,
was cut in two and the sections moved apart to make way for a new
central section. In this meeting house, on November 5, 1842, the
Constitution of the State of Rhode Island and Providence Planta-
tions was adopted.

At 101 Marlborough St. stands an old three-story frame structure
on a stone foundation, the FIRST KENT COUNTY JAIL (1780). It is now
a dwelling house, but in the cellar are two of the original prison cells.

The EAST GREENWICH FIRE ENGINE COMPANY (L), a short distance
S. on Main St., was chartered in 1797. Nearby is the old BRICK
HOUSE (L), the first brick house to be built (1767) in East Greenwich.

At 19.4 m. near the southern edge of the village of East Greenwich
is the junction with Forge Rd., which leads to the peninsula of POTO-
WOMUT, a part of Warwick, though separated from the rest of that
city by East Greenwich. The residents of Potowomut say they realize
they belong to Warwick only when their annual tax bills arrive.

Left on Forge Rd., 0.2 m. (L), is a spring on a trail frequently taken by Roger
Williams, founder of the Colony. He named it ELIZABETH SPRING for the wife of
his friend, John Winthrop, Jr. After Mrs. Winthrop's death, some time previous
to 1675, Williams wrote to Winthrop of his stopping at this place on a trip to the
Narragansett country, saying "Here is the spring, I say with a sigh, but where is
Elizabeth? My charity answers, 'She is gone to the Eternal Spring and Fountain of
Living Waters.' " A small marker at the bottom of a path descending from Forge
Rd. bears the spring's name and the date 1645. At present the spring is dry.

On Ives St., which runs N. from Forge Rd., is GODDARD MEMORIAL PARK,
a gift to the State in 1927 from Robert H. Ives Goddard of Providence, and his
sister, the Marquise Madeleine D'Andigne of Paris. Planned by the original
owners as a forest reservation, this 470-acre State park contains many rare species
of trees. The park has facilities for swimming, baseball, tennis, golf, and riding.
Picnic tables and fireplaces are in groves of white pine trees. In 1936, in connec-
tion with the State Tercentenary, several structures were erected to illustrate
the village life of the Narragansett Indians. The reconstructions show a typical

RHODE ISLAND 71

round house, and a long house, with its imitation birch bark fastened to the roof
poles by vines. A circular stockade was also built, with poles extending 9 ft.
above ground, and tied together at the top by vines.

At the end of Forge Rd., about 1m., are the SITE OF AN OLD FORGE and the
NATHANAEL GREENE BIRTHPLACE. A granite monument near the shore of the
Potowomut River marks the site of the old forge and blacksmith shop, which
belonged to the Greene family. The birthplace of Nathanael Greene, brilliant
Revolutionary general, is high on a hillside above the forge site. This large white
frame house (1684) suffered from remodeling in several styles of architecture.
Nine generations of the Greene family have lived here. Specimens of the massive
anchors made at the Greene forge are in the yard. One anchor is held fast in a
tree that has grown around it.

On US 1 at 20 m. is the junction with the unpaved Pierce Rd.

On this road, and visible (R) from US 1, is the COGGESHALL
HOUSE (about 1715), a two-and-a-half-story structure with a large
pilastered stone chimney. It is now known as Spring Brook Farm.

HUNTS RIVER BRIDGE, 20.7 m., marks the East Greenwich-North
Kingstown boundary line.

In the open, rolling country of this section of North Kingstown
is the junction with the paved Frenchtown Rd.

Right 2.5 m. on Frenchtown Rd. is the village of FRENGHTOWN, on the
site of a 17th century Huguenot settlement that was broken up by boundary
controversies between Rhode Islanders and the owners of the Atherton Purchase,
who endeavored (1659-71) to keep this part of the Colony under the jurisdiction
of Connecticut.

At about 21.5 m. is the section known as Quidnesset, a flat but
pleasant residential country dotted with groups of evergreen trees.
It was here that clay was secured for the Colonial pottery works in
East Greenwich.

At 22.7 m. is the junction with the improved Newcombs Rd.

Left 2 m. on this road is NORTH KINGSTOWN BEACH, a large summer colony
with facilities for swimming, boating, and fishing. There are good accommoda-
tions in season.

Opposite the junction with Newcombs Rd. are the DANIEL FONES
HOUSES (R), on land held in the Fones family since 1680; it was a
part of the Atherton Purchase, bought from John Winthrop, Jr.,
about 1669. The Indians had sold it to Winthrop and others in 1659.

The well-preserved farmhouse near the road was the home of
Daniel Fones, soldier and privateersman in the Revolutionary War.
Extensively remodeled, its gambrel roof is the outstanding evidence

72 U. S. ONE

of its construction in an early period, though not as early as the date
on the chimney (1644) indicates.

The very plain two-and-a-half-story gable house, a few yards south,
is the older of the two, although the date of its construction is un-
known. Characteristic of the houses of that period are the windows
with their small panes.

DEVIL'S FOOT ROCK, 22.9 m. (R), is a large flat rock with a curious
depression that has traditionally been considered as an imprint of
the devil's foot. The footprint, close to the road, according to legend
marks the spot where the evil one stepped when he came over to the
mainland from Conanicut Island.

At 23.3 m. is the junction with the improved Camp Ave.

Left 2.5 m. on the latter is QUONSET POINT, another summer colony with a
good beach.

The RICHARD SMITH HOUSE, 24.3 m. (L), known also as the Up-
dike House, and as Cocumcussoc, is scarcely visible from the highway
because of surrounding trees. This two-and-a-half-story frame struc-
ture has a central brick chimney. The modern vine-covered piazza
along the front and the sides disguises the old lines so that the house
does not appear to be of late 17th century type. In 1639 Richard
Smith built here his first trading post in the Narragansett Indian
territory; its garrison served as headquarters of the Colonial troops
during the campaign that ended in the Swamp Fight in 1675. A few
rods in front of the house is a tablet marking the grave of 40 men who
fell in this engagement. The house was burned in 1676 by Indians
but a few of its beams are said to have been used in the present house,
erected by Richard Smith, Jr., about 1680. The wife of Richard
Smith, Sr., according to tradition, brought from England a recipe for
cheese that became so popular that the local product was shipped to
the southern Colonies and to the West Indies.

The PALMER NORTHUP HOUSE, 24.4 m. (R), an interesting old
structure, is a two-and-a-half-story wooden house with a gable roof.
A lean-to, adjoining the house on the rear and extending to the roof,
gives the house something of a camel-back effect. A part of one side
of this house consists of a stone wall that may have been a "chimney
end" at one time. The uneven spacing of the windows, the small
panes in the lower windows, and the "chimney end" are characteris-
tic of American houses built about 1650; the date of construction of

RHODE ISLAND 73

this house is not known, but it is apparent that many improvements
and additions have been made, as its mass and piazza are not at all
characteristic of that early period.

In front of the Palmer Northup House, on the edge of the highway,
is a stone marker stating that near here was situated the Roger Wil-
liams Trading Post, established in 1637. Williams spent much of his
time here bartering with the Indians. In 1651 he sold his post to
Richard Smith, whose trading house was only a few rods distant, in
order to obtain money for his journey to England to seek the annul-
ment of the patent (1651-52) under which William Coddington had
established a separate government for Newport and Portsmouth.

At 25 m. is the junction with Tower Hill Rd. or US IB.

Right on this paved road at 0.6 m. is the junction with State 102, part of which
is still called the TEN ROD ROAD. It was originally laid out 165 ft. wide so that
herds of cattle could easily be driven from western Rhode Island and from east-
ern Connecticut, to Wickford for shipment by sea.

The PHILLIPS HOUSE (R), 0.9 m. on US IB, in the small village of Belleville
(North Kingstown Town), is sometimes called Mowbra Castle. The original
house (about 1700) consisted of the ell and a part of the present main building.
The chief architectural feature of the exterior is a stone pilastered chimney.
During the Revolution Samuel Phillips, the owner, was a lieutenant in the Con-
tinental Navy. He commanded one of the five boats in the daring expedition
that captured General Prescott in Portsmouth in July 1777 and brought him
safely through the British fleet.

At 3.9 m. is the junction with the dirt Shermantown Rd. Right 0.7 m. on
Shermantown Rd. is, on Congdon Hill, the Platform, the SITE OF ST. PAUL'S (the
Old Narragansett) CHURCH, now in Wickford (see below}. The church was
founded through the efforts of the English Society for the Propagation of the
Gospel in Foreign Parts. Dr. James MacSparran was appointed rector of this
church in 1721, and served until 1757. The church was built in 1707, and was
moved to Wickford in 1800. Dr. MacSparran is buried in the cemetery that
adjoined the church.

At 4.9 m. on US IB is the HAZARD CARSON HOUSE (R), a two-story frame struc-
ture built about 1775. The living room in this house has a fine Colonial mantel
and wainscoting.

At 5.5 m. is the North Kingstown-South Kingstown boundary line. As the
highway passes over the high rolling country in this vicinity distant views of the
Pettaquamscutt River, or Narrow River, and Narragansett Bay (L) are unfolded.

In a field (L) at 5.6 m. is an unmarked stone known as HANNAH ROBINSON'S
ROCK. According to tradition Hannah Robinson, on her return to her father's
house after having been deserted by her husband, asked the servants who were
carrying her litter to stop that she might have a last look at her beloved Nar-
rangansett country (see below).

At 5.8 m. is the junction with Bridgetown Rd. Left 0.6 m. on Bridgetown Rd.

74 U. S. ONE

is the junction with the dirt Narrow River Rd. Left on the latter is the GLEBE,
1.1 m., a shingled two-and-a-half-story house v/ich a gable roof. Here dwelt
James MacSparran, rector of St. Paul's Church from 1721 to 1757, with his wife
Hannah (Gardiner), whose family built the house about 1690. Notable are the
hand-hewn and paneled walls. The house was known during the MacSparran
occupancy as a center of lavish hospitality; here were often entertained Dean
Berkeley and John Smibert, the artist. The only thing about South County that
the famous Episcopal clergyman disliked was the climate, which he found
"either frying or freezing."

At 7.45 m. on US IB are stone gateposts (L) through which can be reached,
by a footpath that begins at the top of a hill 0.2 m. inside the entrance, PETTA-
QUAMSCUTT ROCK, or Treaty Rock. On this spot was negotiated the Pettaquam-
scutt Purchase of 1 658, by which a group of white settlers acquired from the In-
dians a large tract of land, the boundaries of which were not quite clear. The
tract may have been 144 sq. m. in area. The rock is now on private land (may be
visited with consent of owners).

At 7.7 m. on US IB is the junction with the dirt Middle Bridge Rd. At the
junction is a tablet (L) inscribed "This Acre of Land was given by Samuel Sewall
and Hannah His Wife, September 23, 1707, 'To build a public Meeting House
on for the Solemn worship of God.' Dr. Joseph Torrey, minister of this church,
1732-1791, lies buried here."

Left 0.1 m. on Middle Bridge Rd. is the HELME HOUSE (L), a plain two-and-
one-half-story shingled house with a gambrel roof. Built before the Revolution,
it is the last remaining house of what was known as Tower Hill, the capital of
South Kingston. In Revolutionary days a small boy would be sent to the roof of
this house to watch the movements of the fleet off Newport. Benjamin Franklin
was frequently entertained in the house on his journeys between Boston and
Philadelphia. The present owner is a descendant of Chief Justice Helme, whose
name the house bears.

At 1.1 m. on Middle Bridge Rd. is a market (R) near the SITE OF THE JIREH
BULL GARRISON HOUSE, burned by the Indians December 15, 1675, during King
Philip's War.

At 9 m. on US IB, in open rolling country, is the CARTER JACKSON MONU-
MENT (R), a low stone pillar, easily overlooked, which is completely covered by
a lengthy inscription: "This pillar is erected to the memory of William Jackson
of Virginia who was murdered upon this spot by ship captain Thomas Carter of
Newport, Rhode Island, who having been shipwrecked and rendered penniless
thereby, and being overtaken by Mr. Jackson, who also being on his way north,
furnished him with money and use of a horse on the way. Having arrived at the
point indicated by this pillar, Carter there robbed and murdered his kind and
confiding benefactor with a dagger, about the hour of midnight, on January 1st,
1751. Was tried and convicted of his crime at the village of Tower Hill on April
4, 1751. And was hung in chains upon a gibbet May 10, 1751, at the eastern foot
of Tower Hill, at the side of the public highway, where the shrieking as it
were of its chains and during boisterous winds at night, were the terror of
many persons who lived near there or passed nearby. One of these being the late
Governor George Brown of Boston Neck. Who told this writer that such had been
his own case when a youth, while on his way to the residence of College Tom

RHODE ISLAND 75

Hazard that he visited every week. It appears, that Carter threw Jackson in the
Narrow River at the time he committed the murder, and that a negro found him
therein, and near the above mentioned gibbet. A wayside innkeeper, Mrs. Nash,
who lived about 10 miles westward from Tower Hill, happening to be at the vil-
lage at the time that his body was found. She recognized it as being that of Jack-
son by means of a button she had sewn upon his vest only a few hours before he
left her house, and that Captain Carter was with him. Carter was therefore ar-
rested, tried, and condemned, and executed accordingly." Thomas R. Hazard
wrote that as a boy he heard "ever and anon, one of Carter's bones fall cajunk to
the ground."

As US IB passes the brow of a hill near the Carter Jackson Monument, a
panorama of the whole country to the S. comes into view. A little to the E. (L)
is Narragansett Pier, to the S. is Point Judith, and slightly to the W. (R) is the
village of Wakefield, in a valley.

At 10 in. is the junction with US 1 .

At 25.1 m. on US 1 is the northern rim of the old village of WICK-
FORD (North Kingstown Town, sea level), which takes pride in hav-
ing more well-preserved 1 8th century houses than has any other vil-
lage of its size in New England. Along West Main St., between this
point and the village center, are eleven old buildings; but since only
three date from before 1800 this may be considered one of the newer
sections of Old Wickford. Much of the original village was laid out
as a real estate development by Lodowick Updike, grandson of
Richard Smith, the trader at Cocumcussoc (see above). Updike began
selling lots in 1709. The first house in the village was probably erected
in 1711, on the southern side of present Washington St.

On West Main St. at 25.2 m. is the old TOWN HOUSE (R), a small
one-story frame structure (1807). This plain building, reminiscent
of countless New England schoolhouses, is now an American Legion
hall.

Near the village center, a few yards W. of Bridge St., is the STE-
PHEN COOPER HOUSE (1728), probably the oldest house now standing
in Wickford. It is a gambrel-roofed house, painted gray with brown
trimmings.

In the center of the village, 25.4 m., US 1 turns R., but Main St.,
straight ahead, is a rich field for students of early American architec-
ture. On this short street are no less than 20 houses built between
1728 and 1804. On adjoining or nearby streets are more than 40 other
old houses, most of them dating from the 1 8th century.

The IMMANUEL CASE HOUSE, 64 Main St., probably built in 1786,
is an outstanding example of a late 18th century home. It is a large

76 U. S. ONE

two-and-a-half-story house, rectangular in plan, with two large brick
chimneys rising from the ridge of its gable roof. The massive chim-
neys taper. Interesting features are the corniced windows and the
paneled door; Ionic pilasters support the latter 's entablature which
had a decorated frieze; the entablature is topped by a pediment. The
simple lines of the structure and the interesting details combine to
give an impression of dignity and affluence. Immanuel Case was
tavernkeeper in the old village of Tower Hill; he moved to Wickford
in 1786.

Branching from Main St. E. of the Case House is Church Lane,
which leads around a corner to the old NARRAGANSETT CHURCH
(open in summer; in winter on application to the Wickford House on Main
St.). This church was built on Oongdon Hill and moved to Wickford
in 1800. According to old records it was moved "between Tuesdays."
It is an exceptionally fine example of an 1 8th century church. The
building is severely plain in outline, without a tower or other ex-
ternal decoration, except a beautiful doorway surmounted by a
large, curved, broken pediment, supported by two plain capped
pilasters. A small dark tablet is in the pedimented field. The church
is used for summer services; slave pews are still visible in the gallery.

YE OLD NARRAGANSETT BANK HOUSE (1768), on the SW. corner of
Main and Fountain Sts., was once used by Deborah Whitford as a
bakery. About 1805 it was remodeled by Benjamin Fowler, a mer-
chant, landholder, and financier, to serve as a bank; since 1853 the
building has been used for residential purposes. In appearance it is
much like the Case House (see above).

On the E. side of Pleasant St., a few yards N. of Main St., is the
JOHN UPDIKE HOUSE (1745), one of the largest and best-furnished
homes of Old Wickford. The building is two and a half stories high,
with a gable roof and central chimney. It was confiscated from a
Tory owner during the Revolution.

At the E. end of Main St., 0.3 m. from US 1, is a pleasant view
of Wickford Harbor.

From Main St. a marked side road runs about 0.5 m. to the STATE
LOBSTER HATCHERY (visitors welcome), where lobsters are raised from
eggs. The Wickford hatchery released about 1,500,000 lobsters in
1935.

At 25.9 m. (R) is the SOUTH COUNTY BARN MUSEUM (open Sat.,
Sun. aft. in summer; at other times by arrangement; adm. 25), containing a

RHODE ISLAND 77

fine collection of the implements used in early times by farmers,
mechanics, and housewives. The tools and products of the various
craftsmen and artisans are gathered into small shop units to present
an interesting and accurate picture of Colonial life. Here the visitor
sees the tools with which the colonist tilled his fields; how he kept his
livestock; how he spun yarn, wove cloth, and made clothing; what
he used in caring for the sick; what he used when he hunted and
fished, and traveled and traded by land and sea.

At 27.2 m. is the small residential village of HAMILTON (North
Kingstown Town, 20 alt.).

At 29.1 m. is the junction with a paved side road. From the junc-
tion is clearly seen (L) GONANICUT ISLAND in the middle of
Narragansett Bay, and in front of it smaller DUTCH ISLAND,
site of Fort Greble. FORT GREBLE, constructed during the Civil War,
is now garrisoned by a skeleton force. South of this point US 1 runs
close to the bay, with many attractive views (L).

Left 0.5 m. on the side road is PLUM BEACH, a small but excellent bathing
beach. Here also at BARBOUR'S HEIGHTS the town maintained a coast guard
and breastworks during the Revolution.

At 29.4 m. is the junction with a dirt side road.

Right 1 m. on the latter, in a little brook valley among low rolling hills, is (L)
the GILBERT STUART HOUSE, built in 1751 (open May to October; adm. 25). Here
in 1755 Gilbert Stuart, son of a snuff grinder, was born. He became a great por-
trait painter. For a hundred years after Gilbert Stuart's time a grist mill was oper-
ated here before the Gilbert Stuart Memorial, Inc., purchased and restored this
old house. In the large barn-like structure, painted a dark red, snuff is once
more being made.

The CASEY HOUSE, 30.1 m. (R), built about 1725, was the scene
of several Revolutionary skirmishes. The original floor of the dining
room, which has been overlaid, is riddled with bullet holes, as are
three of its doors. A closet at the right of the stairway served as a safe
hiding place for the American minute-men. This house is to become
the property of the Society for the Preservation of New England
Antiquities, according to an agreement made by its present (1937)
owner, Edward Casey. It is a two-and-a-half-story wooden structure,
almost square in plan, with a large brick chimney rising from its
gable-on-hip roof. Hip-roof dormers project on three sides of this
roof. On the south side is a piazza topped by a paneled parapet rail
and supported by six Doric columns.

78 U. S. ONE

At 30.8 m. is the North Kingstown-Narragansett boundary line.
At 31.7 m, is the junction with South Ferry Rd.

Left 0.5 m. on the paved South Ferry Rd. is the FRANKLIN FERRY HOUSE (L),
a rambling yellow farmhouse, used as joint dwelling and business office for the
ferry, which began running shortly before 1700, and was for some tune the only
means of communication between Newport and the mainland.

In front of the Franklin House the paved section of South Ferry Rd. turns L.;
and at 1 m. (L) is the large, well-preserved HANNAH ROBINSON HOUSE (about
1710). This large two-and-a-half-story gambrel-roofed house (see illustration) was
remodeled in 1755 by Rowland Robinson, a wealthy Narragansett planter,
grandson of the builder, and father of Hannah. The house was once 105 ft. long,
but the old kitchen and Negro quarters have been demolished, reducing the
length to about 60 ft. The main part is rectangular in plan; joining it, and giving
the entire structure an L-shape, is a large addition at the rear. The small window
lights (panes) and the small clapboards indicate the early origin of the original
structure. The house has a fine main doorway, surmounted by a broken pediment
which rests on two fluted Doric pilasters; it probably does not belong to the
original plan. The west bedroom, known as the Lafayette Chamber since it was
occupied by the Marquis de Lafayette during the Revolutionary War, contains
the names of French officers scratched on the windowpanes. In this house Han-
nah Robinson met the Frenchman with whom she later eloped. The story of her
desertion, of her poverty and illness and her father's unrelenting anger, of the
belated reunion of father and daughter, and of the return of the girl on a litter
borne by slaves to this house to die, is well told by Alice Morse Earle in Old
Narragansett.

On the unpaved section of South Ferry Rd., at 0.7 m., is the NARRAGANSETT
BAPTIST CHURCH (L), a simple, white frame building visible for miles around
because of its situation on a treeless hilltop. Regular services are no longer held
here; the building is a social center.

At 0.8 m. (R) on South Ferry Rd., on the slope of a hill overlooking the bay, is
FORT PHILIP KEARNY, which was built on the site of the former village of South
Ferry. During the Civil War the village consisted of eight or nine tenement
houses, an inn, and a mill that manufactured jean. The mill engine room and dye
house are still standing. In 1905 the Government bought 25 acres of this land
from the Davis Pain Killer Manufacturing Company and built Fort Kearny.
Two companies were stationed here during the World War. Mines were laid,
and a net was strung across the bay to prevent the entrance of enemy sub-
marines, should they try to move up the bay to Providence.

At 32.3 m. is the junction with a paved side road marked "Bonnet
Point." From this junction BEAVER TAIL LIGHT, at the southern end
of Conanicut Island, is clearly visible.

Left on this road at 0.5 m., standing a little to the N., is the WILLIAM GARDI-
NER HOUSE (L), a two-and-a-half-story dwelling erected in 1727. A .large,
capped, central brick chimney rises from the ridge of the gable roof, which
slightly overhangs at the ends. The windows are topped by small cornices. This

RHODE ISLAND 79

was the home of a wealthy 1 8th century farmer, whose daughter Hannah mar
ried Mr. James MacSparran, rector of St. Paul's Church. She died in London
during the plague.

On BONNET POINT, 1 m., which is now a summer colony, was a fort, erected in
1777 and twice rebuilt. During the Revolution it was used continuously, and
again, during the War of 1812, a battery was stationed here. During the Civil
War it was rumored that the Confederate cruiser Alabama was anchored in the
bay and once again the fort was strengthened and a battery put on duty. The
fortifications have since been demolished.

At 34.5 m. is the junction with a paved side road.

Left 0.2 m. on this road is the HAZARD HOUSE (L). It is a large, square, white,
frame house (about 1740), with a front lawn sloping gently down toward the bay.
From the front of the house is seen WHALE ROCK LIGHT, between the mainland
and Conanicut Island. The lighthouse was completed in 1872.

The Hazard House is on the northern edge of the village of Narragansett,
which is the administrative center for the township of the same name.

NARRAGANSETT, 36.1 m. (Narragansett Town, 100 alt.;
1,258 town pop.), is a village in a township that has been a separate
political entity since 1901, though in 1888 it was set aside as a special
district in the township of South Kingstown. Narragansett per-
petuates the name of the tribe of Indians that at one time roamed
over this territory. The Narragansett Indians were killed or driven
away at the time of King Philip's War, 1675-76. The 19th century
mansion of William Sprague, Governor of the State (1860-63), which
burned in 1 909, was built on the site of one of the camping grounds
of Ganonchet, last notable sachem of the tribe.

Narragansett Village is best known as a summer resort, though
farming and fishing are carried on. Many years ago a long pier jutted
out into the water just below the largest bathing beach, and here
vessels of all descriptions landed passengers and cargoes. The heavy
surf tore the pier away, but this part of the town is still known as
Narrangansett Pier; its beaches are popular in summer.

One of the favorite stories of the town is that of a native who dis-
ciplined his son by beating him with an axe-helve. After one such
beating he announced that the boy had run away to sea, but towns-
people believed that the boy had been done to death and buried in
the old man's cellar. When the father died, no one wished to stay
with the body the night before burial; finally a volunteer watcher
from Kingston appeared. He was awakened from a nap by the open-
ing of the outer door, which unlatched itself and swung inward. He

8o U. S. ONE

closed and latched it carefully. Again the door opened; this time he
slammed it shut and whittled out a wooden plug to secure the latch
as tightly as possible. He had hardly completed the task before the
plug popped out, the door swung inward, and a heavy object was
tossed into the room from the outer darkness. It was an axe-helve,
worn and smooth from use. When the watcher found no one outside
he shut the door a third time, and it remained closed.

Half a mile N. of the center of the village, and visible from US 1,
is the private, well-equipped DUNES CLUB (L), named for its sur-
roundings. The main clubhouse is a low, rambling, stucco structure
300 ft. long and two stories high, with an impressive clock tower. The
club is near the northern end of the pier beach, a crescent-shaped
strip of sand about half a mile in length.

Near the village center is SHERRY'S BATHING PAVILION (open to the
public).

At 36.1 m., in the center of Narragansett, US 1 turns R. on Narra-
gansett Ave.

Left (straight ahead) on the Point Judith Road. At 0.1 m. on this road, L. on
Beach St., past PETTAQUAMSGUTT PARK on the site of the former Hotel de la
Plage, between the Casino Theater and the office of Narragansett Beach Cor-
poration. The park serves as a convenient passageway to the beach walk and is a
pleasant place to rest. Band concerts are held here during the summer months.

Just beyond the park the route swings R. on Ocean Rd. Near the turn are the
TOWERS, formerly the old Narragansett Casino. Only a stone arch across the
road, with two large towers at either end, is left of the old casino, which was
destroyed by fire some time ago. Nearby is the COAST GUARD STATION (L), a two-
story stone building with a slate roof (1887). At about 1 m. the village of Nar-
ragansett gives way to the large estates of summer colonists, which line both
sides of the highway

HAZARD CASTLE, 1.3 m. (R), almost hidden from the road by trees, is a large
building of rough stone, with two large granite towers. The house, an imitation
of an English abbey, was begun in 1846 by Joseph Peach Hazard, but he aban-
doned it in an unfinished condition, and vegetation grew up in wild profusion.
The house became known as the Haunted Castle. In 1883 a nephew of the origi-
nal builder bought the place and completed it. A view from the top of the square
tower the other is hexagonal 165 feet above sea level, includes every point
from Newport to Block Island. In this building some years ago, Dwight W. Tryon,
the New York artist, had a studio.

The entrance to the POINT JUDITH COUNTRY CLUB (private) is at 1.8 m. (R).
The club maintains a golf course, tennis courts, and polo grounds. The polo
games (adm. 55) are held the last week in July and the first two weeks in
August.

SCARBOROUGH BEACH, 3.5 m. (L), is a State reservation with a fine beach.
A large pavilion is now being constructed on the reservation.

RHODE ISLAND 81

At 4.7 m. is the junction with a paved side road. Right 0.7 m. on this road is
SAND HILL COVE, another State reservation. The bathing beach is protected by
the Point Judith Breakwater. GALILEE, 1.7 m., is an old-fashioned little fishing
village.

Ocean Rd. ends at POINT JUDITH, 5.7 m. Many stories are told about the
origin of the name. Some say the point was named for the wife of John Hull,
Boston goldsmith and mintmaster, while others say that it was named for Judith
Stoddard, his mother-in-law. There is a legend that the name was given by some
churchman from Boston, who took the name from the Bible. On some of the
earliest maps the name is printed "Point Juda Neck." Another story is that a
Nantucket captain was lost in fog and did not know in which direction to steer;
his daughter, in the boat with him, presently cried out that she spied land; the
old captain commanded anxiously, "Pint, Judy, pint!" Whatever the deriva-
tion of the name, Point Judith is a piece of land known to all mariners as one of
the most dangerous spots along the Atlantic coast. The POINT JUDITH COAST
GUARD STATION is on the point.

During the Revolution a coast guard and tower beacon were maintained here.
In 1888 a Coast Guard station was built. The building burned down in 1933
and was replaced by a new station, completed in 1935. Near the station is POINT
JUDITH LIGHTHOUSE. The first lighthouse was a wooden structure built in 1806.
This was blown down in the great gale of September 1815. The present building
is an octagonal stone building, built in 1816. The light is now operated by elec-
tricity. Though dangerous to seafarers, Point Judith appears tame on ordinary
occasions. The land is flat, sandy, and nearly treeless. Only when high winds roll
up great breakers does the point impress landlubbers with its threatening char-
acter. From the point there is an unbroken view of the Atlantic.

On Narragansett Ave., which US 1 follows, is the MANSION HOUSE,
a four-story summer hotel containing the most beautiful corner-
cupboard in South County; this cupboard may have been brought
from an older house, the Thomas Mumford homestead, which stood
near the Tower Hill Road and burned down many years ago.
Thomas Mumford, one of the original Pettaquamscutt purchasers,
owned large tracts of land in this part of Narragansett.

Near the western edge of the village is SPRAGUE MEMORIAL PARK
(R). In the distance on a hilltop (R) is a tall brown structure, the
TOWER HILL HOUSE (in South Kingstown), a home for under-
privileged children conducted by Roman Catholic charities.

At 37.5 m. is the Narragansett-South Kingstown boundary line.

At 38 m. is the junction with US IB (see side tour above at 25 m.)
and also the paved Kingston Rd.

Right 0.7 m. on the latter road is the SCALLOP SHELL (R), the home of Miss
Caroline Hazard. Miss Hazard, president of Wellesley College from 1899 to 1910,
was the author of many books, including Anchors of Tradition, Narragansett Bal-
lads, and A Scallop Shell of Quiet.

82 U. S. ONE

At 1.5 m. is the village of PEACE DALE (South Kingstown Town, 40 alt.).
This village is the home of the PEACE DALE MANUFACTURING Co., the chief in-
dustry of the place; its history dates from 1800. Isaac P. and Rowland G. Hazard
here erected a mill for the making of fine woolens and in 1848 they procured a
charter for the Peace Dale Manufacturing Company; the mill began to turn out
shawls in 1849. In 1856 the works were greatly enlarged, and in 1872 a new mill
was added for the manufacture of worsted goods.

In earlier times the farmers of Peace Dale raised large quantities of flax; the
seeds were pressed into oil and the fiber of the flax was woven into linen. In 1751
the General Assembly passed an act to give bounties for the raising of flax. The
stores all took flax in barter and each kept a machine for beating out the seed.

Near the center of the village, on Kingstown Rd., is the HAZARD MEMORIAL
LIBRARY, a fine stone building erected by the Hazard family in memory of the
late Rowland G. Hazard.

On the SE. corner of Kingstown Rd. and Columbia St. is the MUSEUM OF
PRIMITIVE CULTURE (open weekdays , 70 a.m.; free). This collection, the work of
Rowland G. Hazard, was inspired by his interest in primitive peoples. In the
collection are several thousand specimens obtained from various parts of the
United States and from many foreign countries. The bulk of the material is
archeological, consisting of stone artifacts, such as arrows and spear heads; there
are also baskets and costumes. A number of objects belong to the early history of
Rhode Island.

At 38.6 m. is the village of WAKEFIELD (South Kingstown
Town, 40 alt.). The center of the village is crowded with small stores,
but to the S. US 1 passes many large homes set amid beautiful tree-
shaded lawns. The WAKEFIELD MANUFACTURING COMPANY, once
known as the Narragansett Mills, was operating in Wakefield before
1800. After several changes in ownership and management, the com-
pany was sold (1866) to Robert Rodman, who for many years manu-
factured jeans and doeskins. The company is now managed by a
New York concern that manufactures woolen cloth.

On High St. is the TOWN HALL, the administrative center of South
Kingstown (sea level-333 alt., 6,010 pop.). South Kingstown was
formerly a part of the township of Kingstown, incorporated in 1674,
which was divided into North and South Kingstown in 1723. A set-
tlement was made at Pettaquamscutt in 1657-58.

Before white settlers came the area was occupied by the Narra-
gansett Indians. A few Indians remain in the township; most of them
have some white or Negro blood.

On Old Kingston Rd. at Rocky Brook, 0.3 m. W. of High St., is
the WILLIAM RODMAN HOUSE, which some authorities believe to be
the birthplace of Oliver Hazard Perry. The house more often referred

RHODE ISLAND 83

to as the Perry House is about two miles S. of Wakefield on US 1
(see below).

SUGAR LOAF HILL, which rises about 50 ft. above the highway at
39.2 m. (R), is of disputed origin. Some have held it to be an artificial
mound erected by the Indians, but geologists say that it is a natural
hill. There is a good view from its summit.

At 39.25 m. an older paved section of the Post Rd. branches R.

Right 0.1 m. on this road is the WILLARD HAZARD HOUSE (R), better known
as the Tavern. This long two-and-a-half-story shingled structure with a gable
roof was built about 1740. Of unusual interest are its paneled corner pilasters.
Here, according to Thomas Hazard's Jonny-Cake Papers, the widow Nash combed
the hair of William Jackson, the unfortunate traveler from Virginia who was
murdered by Thomas Carter (see side tour at 25 m.). This house, with its tap-
room and great ballroom on the second floor, was a favorite stage stop. It is still
a hostelry, known as Ye Old Tavern.

At 0.2 m. on the Old Post Rd. is the DOCKRAY HOUSE (R), one of the older
houses of South County, and a famous landmark because of the chimney and
oddly placed windows. John Dockray, a merchant from Newport, bought the
land from Daniel Stedman, "with dwelling," on February 25, 1769. The ell,
once used as a store, is believed to have been built in 1725.

At 40.8 m. is the junction with a dirt lane.

Right 0.3 m. on the latter is the OLIVER HAZARD PERRY HOUSE (open May
30-0 ct. 7; 77 a.m.-6 p.m.; adm. 25i each for members of large parties; otherwise adults
50$, children 25$). It is a two-story, gambrel-roofed house, restored in 1929 by
Mrs. Perry Tiffany, wife of the last descendant-owner. The land has been held by
the Perry family since 1702, when Benjamin Perry came here from Sandwich,
Mass. From here Oliver Hazard Perry went to take command of the American
inland fleet on Lake Erie. The house contains many relics both of Commodore
Oliver Hazard Perry and of his younger brother, Commodore Matthew C.
Perry, who opened the ports of Japan to the world.

The SAMUEL G. POTTER HOUSE, 41.7 m. (L), a one-and-a-half-
story structure, was built about 1800 on a part of the John Potter
estate by Samuel G. Potter, who was twice Lieutenant Governor.
The house, surrounded by evergreens, stands back some distance
from the highway.

At 41.9 m. is the junction with an unpaved side road marked
"Snug Harbor." Here is a good view of POTTER POND (L).

Left on this road 0.1 m. is the JOHN POTTER HOUSE (R), a one-and-a-half-
story shingled structure. Chronicles of this region describe John Potter as an
18th century squire, fond of fox hunting, the pleasures of the table, and good
wine; as skillful in fishing for votes of Rhode Island freemen as for striped bass;

84 U. S. ONE

an acknowledged but not convicted counterfeiter the legend being that when
the King's runners were sighted, Potter threw his counterfeiting press into the
deepest part of Potter Pond, from which it was never recovered.

At 42.7 m. is the junction with a dirt road marked "Matunuck
Point."

Left 1 m. on this road is the HAZARD HOLLAND HOUSE (L). This house, situ-
ated some distance back from the road, was built about 1778 and once belonged
to General Staunton, an 18th century soldier and politician. The house still has
its original doors and windows, three of which have inside sliding shutters.

MATUNUGK BEACH, 1.6 m., is one of the oldest summer colonies on the
Atlantic seaboard. There are many beautiful homes and hotels at this beach.
To the W. of the beach are MATUNUCK POINT and the MATUNUCK THEATER-
BY-THE-SEA, open during the summer months. It has a summer stock company
with well-known players taking the leading roles.

The WAGER WEEDEN WATERING PLAGE, 42.8 m. (L), is marked by
a tall stone slab, noting that water used to be brought to this spot from
the pure waters of nearby Wash Pond by Wager Weeden (see below).

Opposite the Weeden tablet, on a hill back of several houses near
the roadside, is the EDWARD EVERETT HALE HOUSE (R), with an "H"
cut in its wooden window shutters. Here the author of The Man With-
out a Country spent his summers among the natural beauties he loved
so much.

WILLOW DELL (1785), 42.85 m. (L), a large house painted yellow,
with red trimmings and green blinds, was the 1 9th century home of
Judge Wager Weeden, grandfather of William Babcock Weeden, the
historian.

At 44.1 m. is the junction with the unpaved Moonstone Beach Rd.

Left 1.6 m. on this road is the SAMUEL PERRY HOUSE (L). This structure must
have been built between 1696, when Samuel Perry came to Kingstown and was
made a freeman of the Colony, and 1716, when he willed the homestead, a mill,
and 146 acres of land to his son James. With this house is connected the legend
of the ring that returned from the sea. The wife of one of the Perrys, boasting of
her riches, threw her golden wedding ring into the sea, remarking that it would
be as impossible for her to become poor as for her ring to return. Some time later
her husband cut her ring out of a fish that was being served at dinner, whereupon
the lady grew pale with fear. Years later she died in poverty.

At the end of the road is MOONSTONE BEACH, 2 m., named for the yellow-white,
or pearl-like, color of its sand.

The GREAT CHIMNEY HOUSE, 44.6 m. (L), known also as the
Browning House, built about 1750, now stands in a dilapidated con-
dition in an auto scrap yard. Nearly opposite this weather-beaten,

RHODE ISLAND 85

shingled house is the QUAKER BURIAL GROUND, which is about 200
ft. R. of the highway and not visible from it. George Fox preached to
the colonists in this vicinity in 1680, and soon after that his converts
erected a meeting house near the present burial ground. James Perry,
Sr., instrumental in its building, gave three acres of land for a free
burial lot. The meeting house was torn down in 1888.

At 46.4 m. is the South Kingstown-Charlestown boundary line.
This part of Charlestown is flat and sandy. From the highway is
visible (L) the ocean-front beach, which is separated from the main-
land by Charlestown or Ninigret Pond. The evenly spaced summer
cottages on the beach stand out sharply against the waters of the
ocean like the teeth of a gigantic saw.

At 46.9 m. is the CHARLESTOWN AIRPORT (L), a level field used
only for emergency landings.

At 47 m. is the junction with an unpaved road marked "Charles-
town by the Sea."

Left 1 m. on this road is CHARLESTOWN BEACH, offering surf bathing and camp-
ing places; the beach also has three good hotels, open in season. Here is the
Charlestown Beachway where Charlestown Pond connects with the Atlantic
Ocean.

GENERAL STANTON INN (open in summer), 47.5 m. (R), is a three-
story, gambrel-roofed, frame building, with shingled ends and a
clapboard front, built about 1755. In the middle of the 19th century
the inn was the real political headquarters of Rhode Island.

The cluster of houses and small stores at 48.1 m. is the village of
CHARLESTOWN, also called Cross' Mills (Charlestown Town,
20 alt.). In the village center, near the intersection with State 2, are
two corn-meal mills. The larger and more modern of the two uses a
Diesel engine for its power, but the meal is ground by stones that are
over 200 years old. Across the street is the INDIAN MAID MILL, run by
the old water power system.

Right from the village center on State 2; not far from the road at 2 m. is the
INDIAN BURIAL GROUND, a 20-acre plot of land owned by the Rhode Island His-
torical Society and maintained by the State. This was a burial plot for sachems of
the Narragansett tribe. One of the graves was opened in 1869; the body had been
buried in a log coffin in which were two kettles, one of brass and the other of iron.

The TOWN HALL is on State 2 at about 2.3 m.

Charlestown Township (sea level-100 alt., 1,118 pop.) was taken from West-
erly and incorporated in 1738. It was named for King Charles II, who gave
Rhode Island its charter of 1663.

86 U. S. ONE

At 48.3 m. is the junction with an unpaved road marked "Fort
Ninigret."

Left 0.2 m. on the latter is FORT NECK LOT, a three-quarter acre reservation
owned by the Rhode Island Historical Society though maintained by the State
as a park. It is at the head of a cove opening from Ninigret Pond. This fort was
supposed for many years to have been the stronghold of the Niantic Indians, but
it is now generally conceded that it was built by the early Dutch traders and used
as a trading post. Bastions and other evidences of military engineering skill found
in the fort, whose original outlines are now protected by an iron fence, seem to
support this theory. Here Capt. John Mason of Connecticut and his little band of
white men halted for one night on their long and dreary march into the Pequot
country in 1637. Sitting around a council fire with the Niantic men, Mason per-
suaded Ninigret to join him in war against the long-time enemies, the Pequots.

At 49 m. (L) is the KING TOM FARM (open June to Sept. by permission
of the owner), once the property of the Niantic, Thomas Ninigret,
better known as King Tom, who was born in 1736. He was sent to
England for his education and brought back the plans for a fine
home; he had the wainscoting and much of the other interior wood-
work made in Newport. This structure was subsequently destroyed
by fire but the outline of the house has been marked by a low wall;
behind it a garden has been laid out and, on the foundation of the old
chimney, is a bronze tablet bearing a picture of the original King
Tom House.

On the farm still stands a two-and-a-half-story, gambrel -roofed
house, painted yellow, which was built between 1746 and 1769. Also
on the farm is CORONATION ROCK, on which the Narragansett Indians
crowned their sachems; the date 1770 cut into it commemorates the
year of the last coronation.

At 50 m. is the junction with an unpaved road marked "Kimball
Bird Sanctuary."

Right 1.3 m. on this road is the KIMBALL BIRD SANCTUARY (open at all times),
on the shore of Watchaug Pond. The grounds, beautifully landscaped with
sumacs and red cedars, belong to the Audubon Society of Rhode Island. The
sanctuary has been in existence for nearly 12 years. It is being improved by the
addition of more facilities, such as bird houses and other equipment.

At 51.9 m. is the junction with an unpaved road marked "Burlin-
game Reservation."

Right 1 m. on this road into the BURLJNGAME RESERVATION, a State park ac-
quired in 1927. Its land area is 3,100 acres, about half of which is forested with
broadleaf and pine. The reservation is a game preserve, containing partridge,

RHODE ISLAND 87

pheasant, quail, deer, rabbits, and squirrels. A water area of 500 acres provides
swimming and skating in season.

At 52.5 m. is the junction with an unpaved road.

Left 1.9 m. on this road is QUONOCHONTAUG BEACH, where are several
hotels with excellent accommodations for guests seeking summer diversion,
swimming, boating, and fishing. The hotels and inns are comfortable, as well
as moderate in their rates.

The GENERAL STANTON MONUMENT, 52.6 m. (L), is a granite shaft
about 20 ft. high, erected by the State in honor of Joseph Stanton,
Jr., who was born in Charlestown in 1739. General Stanton was
prominent as a soldier in the French and Indian War. He was a colonel
in a Rhode Island regiment during the Revolution, and was also
prominent in politics, being one of the first two United States Sena-
tors from Rhode Island.

Opposite the monument is the old WILGOX TAVERN (R), known
also as the Monument House, built about 1730. It was here that
General Stanton was born. Recently the house has been restored and
refurnished in its original 1 8th century style.

At 53.7 m. is the Charlestown-Westerly boundary line. Near this
line, at 53.8 m., is the junction with a dirt road.

Left 1 m. on this road is SHELTER HARBOR, at one time known as Music
Colony, an exclusive summer resort not open to the general public. Many singers
and artists have summer homes here.

At HAVERSHAM CORNER, 54.3 m., is the junction with the
Watch Hill Shore Rd. (see below).

The countryside between 56.7 m. and 57 m. is hilly, and steep
sand dunes are visible (L). The built-up section of Westerly begins
at 58.8 m.

US 1 passes the JOSHUA BABGOCK HOUSE, 59.1 m. (R), a fine, well-
preserved frame building erected about 1735. Joshua Babcock was a
physician, military officer, and judge, and a friend of Benjamin
Franklin, whom he frequently entertained in this house.

Near the Babcock House (R) is the SMITH GRANITE QUARRY
(visitors welcome), established in 1847. Much fine monumental stone
has been taken from this quarry, including a 50-ton block for the
Antietam Soldier on the battlefield of Antietam.

WESTERLY, 59.7 m. (sea level-240 alt., 10,997 pop.), a resort
(see R.L GUIDE).

88 U. S. ONE

Points of Interest. Lucy Carpenter House, Captain Card House, Westerly Mem-
orial Bldg. and Library, Watch Hill, and others.

Left from the village center on Elm St., which becomes Watch Hill Rd. This
route runs along the bank of the Pawcatuck River, past RIVER BEND CEMETERY,
1.4 m., and the old BABCOCK BURIAL GROUND, 2.5 m. The summer resort of
WATCH HILL, 5.5 m., has a fine beach and many little hills that afford charm-
ing cottage sites. Hotel accommodations are ample in season, and there are
facilities for fishing and boating. About 1.5 m. E. of the village are the cellar
REMAINS OF FORT MANSFIELD, erected in 1898 and dismantled after the World
War. The fort was on the elbow of NAPATREE POINT, the extreme southwestern
tip of Rhode Island.

At 60 m. on the PAWCATUCK BRIDGE, over the river of the same
name, is the Connecticut State Line.

CONNECTICUT

R.I. Line New London New Haven Greenwich N.Y.
Line, 119m. US 1.

New York, New Haven, & Hartford R.R. parallels the route.

Four-lane cement roadbed over major part of route. Excellent accommodations

of all types at frequent intervals.

Section 8. Rhode Island Line to New Haven, 71.2 m.

The first post rider on the American Continent was dispatched
over this route, from New York to Boston, following the old Pequot
Path, then only a blazed trail through the wilderness. Over this route
in 1773 Paul Revere, spurring his foam-flecked horse, dashed on his
way to Philadelphia with news of the Boston Tea Party. When the
half-frozen horseman paused at Guilford to bait his horse, the aston-
ished natives gaped wide-eyed at the streaks of war paint on his face.
Today this highway, the Roaring Road, modern and efficiently
policed, is the only direct route across southern Connecticut from
border to border. A section of the chief vehicular highway through
the North Atlantic States, it is the most heavily traveled road be-
tween New York and the cities of the New England seaboard. Al-
though this route parallels the shore, it bypasses many of the pictur-
esque coastal villages, and permits but occasional views of Long
Island Sound.

US1 crosses the Pawcatuck River, m., which separates Westerly,
R.I., from the village of PAWCATUCK, in the Town of Stonington,
Conn.

WEQUETEQUOCK (Ind., head of a tidal river), 2.5 m. (Town of
Stonington), is a village on the long flat inlet known as Wequete-
quock River.

Left from Wequetequock, at an irregular crossroad opposite the small 19th
century meeting house, on a dirt road that leads across Wequetequock Cove and
branches sharply R. past an old GRAVEYARD, 0.1 m., the earliest in the town of
Stonington; here are "wolf stones," the heavy slabs of rude stone that were laid
over graves in primitive settlements as protection against the bold and numerous
wolves that then roamed the countryside. The oldest stone is dated 1690.

At 5.3 m. (L) is STONINGTON (Stonington Town 11,025
pop.), a quiet old town of modest, shady streets on a narrow, rocky
point. Off the Boston Post Road, quite by itself on a long point that

go U. S. ONE

juts out into the ocean and offers magnificent marine views, the
community still has some of the atmosphere of old whaling days.
Fishing gear and lobster traps are piled on the wharves at the end of
the side streets, and during the summer there is much activity
offshore.

Little remains of the shipbuilding that made Stonington a center
of such importance in the colony of Connecticut that the village was
popularly known as a "Nursery for Seamen." One of the first whaling
franchises ever granted in America was issued to a Mr. Whiting for
the waters between Stonington and Montauk Point in 1647.

The point of land on which the community stands was occupied by
Narragansett Indians before the arrival of William Chesebrough and
a group of colonists from Plymouth in 1649. Ownership of the terri-
tory was disputed for several years by Massachusetts and Connecti-
cut. Massachusetts named the settlement "Souther Towne" in 1658.
Connecticut renamed it Stonington in 1666, after the agreement of
1 662 under which the town again came within the boundaries of the
Nutmeg State.

During both the Revolutionary War and the War of 1812 the
town was attacked by the British from the sea. Today there is little
industry in the community. One factory produces fine silk-throwing
machinery, one mill makes velvet, and another produces various
forms of rubber molds.

The DUDLEY PALMER HOUSE (1700), 14 Elm St., a white clap-
board, two-and-a-half-story peak-roofed house with a brick central
chimney, has a delicately designed cornice with capped corner
boards. A part of the home is used as a WHALING MUSEUM (open
weekdays, free); its owner, Dr. J. H. Weeks, is an authority on local
history and has collected many relics of whaling days.

In CANNON SQUARE, the southern center of the borough, stand
two of the 18-pounders used in defense of Stonington during the
British attack of 1814.

The old STONE LIGHTHOUSE, at the end of Water St., holds a tea-
room and museum (free). It is a massive squat building of heavy
granite blocks, once painted white, with an octagonal tower topped
by a windowed hood from which the light shone. The diamond-paned
casement windows, with exceptionally heavy window caps, evince a
Tudor influence, strange to find in a New England lighthouse.

Among the historic maritime exhibits is the figurehead of the Great

CONNECTICUT 91

Republic, the largest ship of the mid-1 9th century, and one of the first
to be rigged as a four-masted barque. Built in Boston by Donald
McKay in 1853, her registered tonnage was 4,555. She caught fire
and had to be scuttled while being loaded for her maiden voyage,
and never went to sea as originally designed. Under modified rigging,
she was a failure commercially but did good work as a troop ship in
both the Crimean and the American Civil Wars.

The greater part of Stonington is on a peninsula close to the water.
US 1 skirts the northern end of the village and turns abruptly R.

The route passes over an inlet of Stonington Harbor. For less than
a mile it parallels the northern shore of the harbor, and then crosses a
broad neck of land that terminates in LORD'S POINT, a summer colony
on the sound. From the bridge crossing the long and narrow QUIAM-
BOG COVE, 8 m., is an excellent view (L) of FISHER'S ISLAND,
three miles offshore one of the numerous islands NE. of Long
Island that are part of New York State.

At 9 m. is the junction with a paved side road.

Left on this road to MASON ISLAND, 0.8 m., which commands an impressive
view of Fisher's Island. Mason Island, edged with rocky ledges and sandy beaches,
was presented to Gapt. John Mason of Windsor in appreciation of his victory over
the Pequot Indians of Pequot Hill. It is now occupied by summer homes. Though
the island is accessible by a private road over a causeway, sightseers are not
welcome.

MYSTIC, 9 m. (Town of Stonington), is an old maritime com-
munity of trim white houses on green-fringed, irregular Mystic
Harbor, the tidal outlet of the Mystic River. For generations Mystic
was the home of daring mariners and fishermen, and was feared by
the British during the Revolution as "a cursed little hornets' nest."
It teemed with shipbuilding activity during the gold rush days, when
the Mystic River echoed with pounding hammers "knocking away
the shores and spurs," so that clipper ships might slide down the ways
to make world records on their exciting runs around the Horn to
California. Here was built in 1860 the Andrew Jackson, a modified
clipper that combined cargo space with speed. It hung up a record of
89 days and 4 hrs., breaking by 9 hrs. the record of the famous
Flying Cloud (1851). In succeeding passages the Andrew Jackson made
the best average time of any ship sailing to San Francisco.

Right from Mystic on State 159, a short distance, is (L) the MARINE HISTORI-
CAL MUSEUM, housed in an old wooden mill building. Here is one of the finest

92 U. S. ONE

collections of clipper ship models in America, in addition to old figureheads and
paraphernalia of whaling and sailing days.

On the museum grounds is the hull of the sailboat Annie, which defeated all
comers in the sandbagger class from 1870 to 1880. It was designed by D. O.
Richmond, known as one of the most successful yacht builders of the era pre-
ceding ballast keel construction.

US 1 crosses the Mystic River to WEST MYSTIC, 9.7 m. (Town
of Groton), where the Galena (1862), one of the earliest ironclad war-
ships, was built.

1. Right from West Mystic on Elm St. 0.9 m. to PEQUOT HILL, on which is
the MASON MONUMENT, marking the spot where Gapt. John Mason with a force
of 77 men captured and burned a Pequot Indian fort in 1637. More than 600 Indi-
ans were burned to death while they slept. "Seven escaped and seven died by
the sword," said a report.

2. Left from West Mystic, State 125 runs along the shore qf Mystic Harbor
past numerous old houses and new summer homes to NOANK (Ind., point of
land), 2.5 m., home of swordfishermen, lobstermen, and boatbuilders. Their
wharves and craft fringe the waterfront; and their dwellings cluster on the hillside
of the seagirt point, where the old lighthouse beacon has guided home genera-
tions of seafarers.

West of West Mystic, the road runs inland, crossing low hills
which, several miles to the S., level into peninsulas, notably cottage-
covered GROTON LONG POINT and EASTERN POINT with
its exclusive summer colony.

At 11.7 m. is FORT HILL (R), where Pequot reinforcements en-
camped when Mason burned their stronghold at Pequot Hill. The
remnant of the tribe was pursued by Mason to Fan-field, and there
perished in the Great Swamp Fight.

At the head of the salt inlet of Poquonock River the route runs
through the hamlet of POQUONOCK BRIDGE (Ind., cleared land), 13.4 m.
(Town of Groton).

At 14.2 m. is a dignified shaft in Avery Memorial Park (L), mark-
ing the SITE OF THE HIVE OF THE AVERYS, the homestead that from
1656 to 1894 was occupied by seven generations of the descendants of
Capt. James Avery. The shaft, topped by a bust of the original settler
in Puritan costume, was the gift of the late John D. Rockefeller, a
descendant of the Averys, and was designed by the sculptor, Bela
Lyon Pratt, another descendant.

North of the monument US 1 ascends to a hilltop from which, at
14.9 m., there is a wide view that embraces the countryside south-
ward to Long Island Sound.

CONNECTICUT 93

At 16.4 m. the road bypasses GROTON HEIGHTS, crowned by
the granite obelisk of GROTON MONUMENT and the grass-grown
breastworks of FORT GRISWOLD, scene of a disastrous Revolutionary
battle in 1781.

At 16.5 m. is GROTON (Groton Town 10,770 pop.), a summer
resort whose main streets US 1 bypasses. The town spreads along the
eastern bank of the Thames River opposite New London. From the
water's edge to the hillcrest, the old shipbuilding village of narrow
streets and small vine-grown houses slumbered for years, growing in
its sleep and awakening just before the World War to be rediscovered
by industry. Today, although submarines, engines, banjos, thread,
and castings are produced here, Groton has remained a Yankee
community.

Land in Groton was granted to New London settlers in 1648-9
and first occupied in 1649 by Jonathan Brewster, eldest son of Elder
William Brewster of the Mayflower colony, who established a trading
post at Brewster's Neck. Organized in 1705, the town was named for
the county seat of the Winthrops in Suffolk, England. Agriculture
was not profitable, but the fisheries were. From early times Groton
men and boys have been engaged at sea; there have been many
distinguished Groton skippers.

The MOTHER BAILEY HOUSE (1782), 108 Thames St., a two-and-a-
half-story wooden building, owes its fame to an episode of the War of
1812. In June 1813 Commodore Stephen Decatur and his small
fleet, pursued by a British squadron, had taken shelter in New
London Harbor. Fearful of a repetition of the attack of 1781, terrified
inhabitants bundled their household goods into carts and hastened
inland. A messenger from the fort, sent through town to collect old
rags for gun wadding, was therefore unsuccessful until he met
Mother Bailey, who promptly removed her red flannel petticoat and
remarked, "There are plenty more where that came from." After the
war, President Andrew Jackson is reported to have visited Mrs.
Bailey and presented the iron fence at the W. of the house as a token
of appreciation.

The BILL MEMORIAL LIBRARY (open Tues. and Thurs. 2-6 p.m.;
Sat. 2-7 p.m.), near the Groton Monument, has a fine collection of
butterflies.

Near Groton is a U.S. SUBMARINE BASE (visitors admitted).

North of the village center, US 1 crosses the Thames River on a

94 U. S. ONE

steel bridge sufficiently high to afford a view straight down New
London Harbor (L), one of the deepest on the Atlantic coast, with
more than three miles of navigable water frequented by seagoing
vessels of many types.

The view (R) up the tidal course of the Thames River extends
about two miles over part of the course of the annual Yale-Harvard
crew races. On the western bank are the modern brick buildings of
the U.S. COAST GUARD ACADEMY, and on the hilltop further N., the
campus and native granite buildings of CONNECTICUT COLLEGE.

NEW LONDON, 18.6 m. (29,640 pop.), a seaport (see CONN.
GUIDE}.

Points of Interest. Fort Trumbull, Old Town Mill, Huguenot House, Shaw
Mansion Museum, Lyman Allyn Museum, Whaling Museum, Connecticut
Arboretum, Connecticut College, and others.

West of New London, US 1 takes a somewhat winding course,
keeping well inland but affording glimpses of the upper reaches of
the estuary of the Niantic River.

West of the Niantic River is EAST LYME, 25.5 m. (East Lyme
Town 2,575 pop.), a rural village on whose side roads are many
well-preserved homesteads of early settlers.

At the NE. corner of the junction with State 161, at the village
center, stands the remodeled 18th century CALKINS TAVERN, where
both Washington and Lafayette stopped. Further W. is the COLONIAL
INN, built during the full flower of the Greek Revival; and at the rear
of the small BAPTIST CHURCH is the JUSTIN BECKWITH HOUSE (1785),
its elaborate facade exemplifying the beginning of the Greek Revival.

PATAGANSET LAKE, 26.3 m. (R), has a number of different
kinds of aquatic plants. The STONE RANCH MILITARY RESERVATION,
27.8 m. (R), bordering US 1 intermittently for about two miles, was
formerly the property of Fred Stone, the comedian, and was designed
by him to imitate a typical western ranch. Now State-owned, it is
maintained as a C.C.C. camp and public shooting ground.

West of the hamlet of LAYSVILLE (Town of Old Lyme), 32.1 m.,
which once supported a small woolen industry, US 1 traverses fertile
valley farm lands.

Between 34 m. and 35 m. the highway passes the mile of roses (L)
planted by Judge W. E. Noyes, along a stone wall of his estate. At
34.3 m. (R) is the FLORENCE GRISWOLD HOUSE, with a two-story
Ionic portico, rendezvous of many artists who have decorated the

CONNECTICUT 95

paneled walls of the interior with sketches. Notable among the many
paintings of the exterior of this house is Metcalf's May Night, which
won first prize in the Corcoran Gallery of Art (Washington, D.C.)
exhibition in 1907, and is now owned by the Pittsburgh Art Gallery.

At a rotary at 34.5 m., US 1 turns abruptly W., avoiding the elm-
shaded center of the ancient maritime village of Old Lyme, which is
reached by continuing directly S.

OLD LYME (Old Lyme Town 1,313 pop.), which US 1 skirts at
this point, is a resort and art colony. Here, the saying goes, "a sea
captain once lived in every house." In dignified old dwellings their
descendants treasure teak-wood chests, Paisley shawls, ivory images,
and exquisite tapestries collected in the Orient. The variety of Old
Lyme's landscape, combining shady streets with stretches of marsh-
land and tranquil meadows with a rugged shore line, has attracted
many eminent artists.

The town of Old Lyme, once known as Black Hall, was named for
Lyme Regis in Dorsetshire, England, the port from which Matthew
Griswold, the first settler, sailed for America. The town was set off
from Say brook in 1665 and incorporated as a separate town in 1855.

The GREEN has been the center of town life since the first settle-
ment. Here stood the old whipping post and stocks, and here on
March 16, 1774, Lyme had its own Tea Party when a traveling ped-
dler was found to be carrying sacks of tea on the back of his donkey.
While the unwary peddler paced the floor of a cell, the townsfolk
gathered at the green and made a bonfire of his wares.

The CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH (see illustration), SW. corner Ferry
Road and Lyme St., is a copy of a structure long recognized by
artists as a fine expression of Colonial ecclesiastical architecture in
New England. The original church, built in 181617 by Col. Samuel
Belcher from plans of a Christopher Wren church in London, burned
on the eve of July 4, 1907, was reproduced in the present building
(1909). Above the Ionic portico, which has a rich and delicate
cornice, the white steeple rises with a square clock tower, one closed
stage and one octagonal stage to the slender spire. The small, square
windows increase the effect of simplicity.

The old PECK TAVERN, Post Road and Sill Lane, now headquarters
of the Old Lyme Guild (annual exhibition of arts and crafts in late sum-
mer, adm. free), is one of the town's earliest buildings. The porch is
elaborately ornamented with carvings. Although many of its features

96 U. S. ONE

are of later construction, the old taproom and a second-floor ball-
room with a swinging partition belong to the early state.

The LYME ART GALLERY (two annual exhibitions: water colors, etch-
ings, drawings throughout June; paintings and sculpture from end of June to
fast week in Sept., adm. 50), Boston Post Road, exhibits the canvasses
of the many artists of distinction who have founded a large colony
here.

At 35 m. US 1 crosses the Connecticut River. Good views of the
broad stream unfold at this point. The FERRYHOUSE, on the site of the
old landing that handled all cross-river traffic here from 1662 to
1911, stands below the eastern approach to the highway bridge.

At 37.3 m. is a junction (R) with US 1-Alt. US 1, following the
Old Post Road, turns L. through the center of OLD SAYBROOK,
37.9 m. (Old Saybrook Town 1,643 pop.), at the mouth of the Con-
necticut River, one of the oldest towns in the State. This quiet elm-
shaded village has changed little in the last century. Natives do a
thriving business in renting small boats during the duck-hunting
season. Along the waterfront lobstermen are busy with their traps
and bait, and in the spring the teeming activity during the run of
shad recalls the early importance of Saybrook's fisheries, when
thousands of shad were caught daily, salted down, and shipped
inland.

Saybrook Point was first occupied in 1623 by "two families and
six men" sent by the Dutch of Manhattan Island to take possession of
lands at the mouth of the river. Evidently they were soon frightened
away by the unfriendly Indians, as there was no evidence of the
settlement in 1633 when a party from a Dutch ship landed here,
named the point "Kievet's Hook" because of the cries of the
sandpipers, and affixed the coat of arms of the States General to
a tree.

Wishing to eliminate the danger of Dutch occupation, the English
granted a patent to Viscount Saye and Sele, and to Lord Brooke,
who commissioned John Winthrop, Jr., as agent and governor of the
"River Connecticut, the harbors and places adjoining these unto."
Winthrop, arriving at Boston in October 1635 with Lion Gardiner,
an engineer formerly in the employ of the Prince of Orange, immedi-
ately dispatched a party of men, who on November 9th reached this
spot, which was later named for the two grantees. Winthrop and
Gardiner arrived on November 24th. The Dutch shield was torn

Kf* $

. ^ wl * < - ,-v; C^yi ^v

CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, OLD LYME, CONNECTICUT

NEW HAVEN GREEN, CONNECTICUT

CONNECTICUT 97

down from the tree and in its place was carved a grinning face. The
English had barely thrown up earthworks and mounted their guns
when a Dutch fleet sailed into the harbor. The little fort brought out
the Union Jack and manned its guns, and the Dutch withdrew with-
out firing a shot.

In 1 673 Governor Andros of New York attempted to take posses-
sion of Saybrook. Hoisting the King's flag over his ship he demanded
the fort's surrender. Capt. Thomas Bull, then in command, promptly
raised His Majesty's colors over the fort, and Andros, not daring to
fire on a British flag, was persuaded to settle the matter at a confer-
ence with the General Court.

Saybrook was the original site of Yale College, which was estab-
lished here as the Collegiate School in 1701. Although some of the
early classes were held at the home of the Rev. Abraham Pierson, the
first rector, in Killingworth (now Clinton), Saybrook was the official
site of the college.

YE OLD SAYBROOK INN (1800), Main St. and the Old Boston Post
Road, has a low hip roof surrounded by a simple balustrade over an
elaborate cornice of Greek detail. The building was erected by Maj.
Richard William Hart, a son of Gen. William Hart, who was one of
the company that purchased lands of the Western Reserve from the
State of Connecticut in 1795. In 1867-8, the house, while operated as
a tavern by Captain Morgan, was visited by Charles Dickens, who
depicted the old innkeeper as Captain Jorgen in A Message from the
Sea.

The plain white CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, Main St., of heavy
construction, was built in 1839. Its small, square two-stage tower
rises above a portico with four impressive Tuscan columns. On the
church a plaque is inscribed, "This church was organized in the
Great Hall of the Fort in the summer of 1646."

The BLACK HORSE TAVERN (1720), built for John Burrows, long
enjoyed a profitable business when steamboat passengers landed at
the wharf in its back yard to transfer to the Connecticut Valley Rail-
way. Although the building has been remodeled, the old parlor still
retains its two old summer beams and burnt oystershell plaster. The
fireplace has some plain, though excellent, wide paneling.

Rejoined by US 1-Alt., which bypasses the old settlement, the
highway passes numerous old houses that have been converted into
antique shops.

98 U. S. ONE

At 42.1 m. is the intersection with a dirt road.

Left on this dirt road, 0.4 m., to the shore of Long Island Sound; a short dis-
tance offshore is SALT ISLAND, affording anchorage for fishing schooners and
other small craft. Accessible on foot only by sand flats at low tide, this islet
was formerly the site of extensive salt and fish-oil works.

WESTBROOK, 42.3 m. (Westbrook Town 1,087 pop.), is the
birthplace of David Bushnell, inventor of the torpedo and of the first
submarine used in actual warfare.

At 42.8 m. (L) is the DAVID BUSHNELL HOUSE (adm. 35), the
home of the inventor's uncle. The building (1720) has been restored
and is now maintained as a museum. Among the exhibits are parts
of Bushnell's original "turtle" submarine.

Crossing Patchogue and Menunketesuck Rivers just N. of their
confluence at Menunketesuck Point, where sandbars across the
marshy district made it possible to ford the streams before the build-
ing of bridges, US 1 passes a fine State-maintained PICNIC AREA,
44.1 m. (R).

At 44.5 m. is the junction with State 145.

Left on State 145 to the summer colony at KELSEY POINT, past GROVE
BEACH, a mile-long stretch of sand that forms one of the finest bathing beaches
in the State. This road rejoins US 1 at 2.6 m.

CLINTON, 46.9 m. (Clinton Town 1,574 pop.), a clean, quiet
village, is one-half mile inland from the harbor once busy with ship-
ping and ship-building, but now disturbed only by the unhurried
pleasure boats and trawlers. The manufacture of Pond's Extract
from native witch-hazel, cut in back-country brush lots and some-
times distilled in backwoods stills, is the town's chief industry. On the
small triangular green (R) is a CANNON used by Gideon Kelsey in his
single-handed defense of the local coast line against British invasion
in 1812. Clinton township was once the more populous part of the old
Town of Killingworth. It was incorporated as a separate town in
1838 and named for Governor De Witt Clinton of New York.

The STANTON HOUSE (L), built in 1789 and now a Colonial mu-
seum (open weekdays 2-5 p.m.; free), contains an excellent collection of
old chinaware and furniture. The paneled dividing wall is hinged,
and can be raised to hooks in the ceiling, making the front of the
house one large room. The original wallpaper, a handsome French
product, still covers two walls of the SW. room. The ADAMS STANTON

CONNECTICUT 99

STORE, in one room, has been restored to its early condition, with its
original counter, shelves, and drawers still bearing the painted labels
of their contents. The accountant's desk and ledgers occupy their
place by a rear window. Behind this house is the old WELL used by
the Reverend Abraham Pierson, first rector of the Collegiate School,
later Yale College. The famed clergyman's homestead formerly
stood on this site and the first Yale students attended classes there,
until the college was moved to Saybrook. In the center of the green,
opposite the church, is a MONUMENT commemorating the early years
of the Collegiate School, 1701-07. Across the way is a MILESTONE (L),
one of the many placed along the highways by Benjamin Franklin.

At 95 E. Main St. is the WRIGHT HOMESTEAD (1807), birthplace of
Gen. Horatio G. Wright, commander at the Battle of Cedar Creek,
whose skillful rallying of his panic-stricken troops made possible
Sheridan's ride, the subject of the poem by that name. Fort Wright
on Fisher's Island was named for him.

At 47.2 m. is the intersection with Swain town Road.

Right on Swain town Road; at its intersection with Cow Hill Road at 1.4 m.
is a LITTLE RED SCHOOLHOUSE, an example of the early New England country
school. This one-room building, erected in 1800, has windows fitted with batten
shutters.

Left on Cow Hill Road, at 1.5 m., is the STEVENS FARM, cultivated since 1675
by nine generations of the Stevens family. The salt-box homestead, with exposed
timbers in some of the rooms, was built in 1699. Among the many heirlooms pre-
served by the family is a copy of the original grant to the property received by
John Stevens from King Charles II of England, as well as rifles used by members
of the family in the Revolutionary and Civil Wars, and in hunting forays on
Roast Meat Hill to the N.

At 47.9 m. US 1 crosses the Hammonasset River and proceeds
past many restaurants and hotels where shore dinners are a specialty.
Water scenes and rural landscapes diversify the scenery. Long Island
Sound is visible at frequent intervals with its pleasure craft spreading
white sails, coastwise steamers plying between New York and New
England ports, and tugs pulling strings of barges. Long Island, 25
miles distant, can be glimpsed.

At 48.6 m. is the intersection with a hard dirt road.

Left on this road into HAMMONASSET STATE PARK, a tract of 954 acres, with
bathing, boating, and camping facilities for more than a million and a half visi-
tors annually. The sandy beach, extending five miles along the shore, is the
largest public beach in Connecticut.

ioo U. S. ONE

MADISON, 51.2 m. (Town of Madison 1,918 pop.), contains
many old landmarks grouped about a long, dignified central green.
Here lived Cornelius Scranton Bushnell, builder of Civil War battle-
craft and financial sponsor of Ericsson's Monitor. The GRAVES HOUSE
(R), a salt-box structure E. of the green, dates from 1675, its weather-
worn shingles bearing evidence of its age. Overlooking the green
from the W. is the stately CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH (1838), whose
gilded, cylindrical spire thrusting above the trees guided returning
seamen straight to Madison Harbor. The Madison Historical Society
occupies the NATHANIEL ALLIS HOUSE (open weekdays in summer, 2-6
p.m.; adm. 25 ') at the center; the structure contains a completely
equipped Colonial kitchen, examples of early American clothing,
furniture, embroidery, and pewter.

Right from the green on Scotland Road to DUCK HOLE, 1.5 m., at four corn-
ers near a bridge over the Hammonasset River; here an old mill dam in a sylvan
setting offers a quiet resting place.

At 52.1 m. is the junction with a dirt road.

Left on this dirt road to the shore where are stone wharves recalling the old
shipping and shipbuilding trades that once nourished here.

At 52.9 m. is the junction with a side road.

Left on this side road which follows Neck River to its mouth in Guilford Har-
bor, where the sandy beach of HOGSHEAD POINT looks out to FAULKNER'S
ISLAND, the site of a Government LIGHTHOUSE four miles offshore.

A PICNIC AREA is just W. of an underpass at 53.4 m. in the village
of EAST RIVER, a rural hamlet E. of the stream of the same name.

The road now crosses the upper section of the village of Guilford,
the center of which is reached by turning (L) on State St., which is at
56.3m.

GUILFORD (3,117 Town pop.) was named for the town in
Surrey, England. Many old houses border the quiet streets, and the
wide green, with its elms and Greek Revival church, has a tranquil
simplicity characteristic of the town.

Founded in 1 639 and originally named Menunkatucket, Guilford
was settled by a body of Puritans from Kent and Surrey under the
leadership of Henry Whitfield and Samuel Desborough.

Granite quarrying and oyster culture have flourished in the town
throughout most of its existence. Quarries opened here in 1837 have

CONNECTICUT 101

provided stone for the Statue of Liberty foundation, breakwaters at
Block Island, 13 bridges over the Harlem River, the foundation of
the Brooklyn Bridge, the northern half of the Battery wall in New
York, and the lighthouse at Lighthouse Point, New Haven.

A leading occupation is the cultivation of roses, carried on at the
PINCHBECK GREENHOUSE on State St., one of the largest single hot-
houses in the United States. Covering more than 125,000 square
feet in glass, the greenhouse is 1,200 feet long, and has produced a
record output of 18,000 roses in one day; average production is about
7,000 daily.

Schoolroom furniture, canned goods, birch extract, toilet articles,
iron, brass, and bronze castings are made here.

The CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH, framed by the trees on the green,
was built in 1829 at the end of the decade in which the Greek Re-
vival reached its fullest development. This church offers an interest-
ing comparison with the Litchfield Congregational Church, built in
the same year. Some of the details of the tall steeple in three diminish-
ing stages with a conical spire, are purely Greek, as are the reeded
and fluted Ionic columns of the portico, showing the advancing
accuracy of the effort to return to original classical form.

The WHITFIELD HOUSE, one long block S. on Whitfield St. (open
daily 9-5; adm.free), is probably the oldest house in Connecticut, but
the present structure is largely a restoration. About a third of the
heavy rear wall, the immense chimney that covers the whole north
end of the house, and the line of the foundation are all that remain of
the original stone house, which was built in 1639-40 by the Reverend
Henry Whitfield, to serve not only as a home but as a meeting house,
a fort, and for all public uses of the community, as the most important
house in Connecticut towns often did.

In 1936, financed by W.P.A. funds, under the direction of J.
Frederick Kelly, an authority on early Connecticut architecture, the
house was restored as nearly as possible to its original appearance,
even to the odd windows, which old prints show in the SW. corner.
Now maintained by the State as a museum, the building houses a
varied collection of old relics and curios.

The HYLAND HOUSE, Boston St. between Graves Ave. and Pearl
St. (open summer 9-5; small fee), also known as the Fiske Wildman
House, has been restored by the Dorothy Whitfield Historical
Society, and is now a museum. Though many times reconstructed,

io2 U. S. ONE

the present Highland House is a fairly accurate representation of
the original structure.

Guilford's beautiful, ledge-lined HARBOR is bordered by spacious
country estates. On Rocky Island, reached by a foot bridge, is the
Yacht Club. SACHEM'S HEAD, a rocky promontory, was the scene of a
savage battle between two Indian tribes when the inlet, since called
Bloody Cove, "ran red with blood." Here, according to tradition,
the victorious chief Uncas overtook the Pequot sachem. Cutting off
the head of the vanquished leader, Uncas fixed it in the crotch of a
tree, where the skull remained for many years, a ghastly warning
against further aggression.

On the NW. corner of US 1 and State St., at 56.1 m., is the COM-
FORT STARR HOUSE (1645), the only surviving wooden house built by
the signers of the "stay together, work together" covenant drawn up
by the original settlers.

Right from Guilford on State St. to the intersection with North St., 0.3 m.
Here at 1 North St. stands the HOME OF SAMUEL LEE, captain of the Coast
Guard in Revolutionary days. During Captain Lee's absence Tories often raided
the house in search of contraband articles that had been seized by the Coast
Guard, but they were always outwitted by the captain's wife, Alice. It was she
who fired a cannon in the yard to warn the colonists who were working in their
northern fields, when the British landed at Leete's Island.

Further on State St., which becomes Nut Plains Road, is the delightful seques-
tered village of NUT PLAINS, 2.7 m., where hickory and walnut trees shade
the quiet main street. Here lived General Andrew Ward, Revolutionary hero
who covered Washington's retreat by keeping the camp fires at Trenton burning,
thus successfully deceiving the British until the Continental Army had safely
withdrawn. Among the ten grandchildren in General Ward's household was the
studious Roxana, who tied her French textbook to the spinning wheel, so that
she might study as she worked. She became Mrs. Lyman Beecher, mother of
Henry Ward Beecher and Harriet Beecher Stowe.

At 3 m. (L) stand two HALL HOUSES, the frames of which were raised on the
same day in 1740. One, in dilapidated condition, boasts an ell-plan chimney.
The other, built by a brother on adjoining property, is in excellent condition,
although it has never been painted. Most of the interior woodwork is original,
and since the timbering is exposed, offers a good example of early framing.

Passing a roadside picnic area, (L) at 58.6 m., US 1 swings N.
around MOOSE HILL, affording a fine view of the Connecticut coun-
tryside. On a hillside (L), at 60.8 m., is the large red EDWARD FRISBIE
HOMESTEAD, now known as the Hearthstone Tea Room. Although
marked 1685, its architecture suggests that the present structure is
mid-1 8th century possibly built about the chimney of an earlier

CONNECTICUT 103

house. The interior is well-preserved and interesting, with an un-
usually large stone slab hearth. {

At 63.1 m. the road crosses the Branford River, which flows into
Branford Harbor two miles S.

At 63.3 m. is the intersection with US 1-Alt., a new four-lane
highway bypassing the old and interesting village of Branford.

US 1, no longer than the cut-off, passes through the center of
BRANFORD, 64.2 m. (Branford Town 7,022 pop.), named for
Brentford in the English county of Middlesex. It is a pleasant resi-
dential area, formerly a busy center of shipping. Here is the site of an
important salt works, the product of which was used in the preserva-
tion of meat for the Revolutionary Army.

In this section are many fine old houses. One of the best is the
SAMUEL FRISBIE HOUSE (L),on E. Main St. (US 1), a red two-story
clapboard structure unaltered since it was built in 1792.

Grouped about the green, a large triangular plot (L), are the
town's public buildings, churches, and monuments.

On the southern side of the green stands the small cupola-topped
BRANFORD ACADEMY BUILDING (1870), now occupied by the local
historical society. On the SE. corner is a small commemorative tablet
calling attention to the SITE OF THE REVEREND SAMUEL RUSSELL
HOUSE, where in 1701 ten clergymen met and donated books for the
founding of the Collegiate School, later Yale College.

At 64.5 m., on a knoll overlooking a small green, is the JAMES
BLAGKSTONE MEMORIAL LIBRARY, a marble building of 1896, which,
though having the pretentious architectural detail typical of that
period, houses an uncommonly fine library for so small a town.

At 64.9 m. is the junction with N. Harbor St.

Left on N. Harbor St. to BRANFORD POINT, 1.5 m., where are a large
restaurant and a municipal bathing beach.

At 65.3 m. the highway bears N. to rejoin the four-lane highway,
US 1-Alt.

West of the village, US 1 ascends the Branford Hills, with good
views ahead. At 66.9 m. it passes LAKE SALTONSTALL. Here, on
Beaver River (R), stands an old MILL with hewn timbering. It is on
the site of the first iron mill in Connecticut, though undoubtedly it is
not the original building. A clause in the deed making it mandatory
for the owner to grind any corn or grain brought to him by a property

104 U. S. ONE

owner of East Haven might prove embarrassing to the present
owner, as only one millstone now remains.

EAST HAVEN, 67.5 m. (East Haven Town, 7,812 pop.), includes
comparatively level agricultural land devoted to truck gardening to
the N., and residential colonies and summer resorts along the shore
to the S. It is now receiving the overflow from many of New Haven's
expanding activities.

At 57 Main St. stands a house (1694) so remodeled as to be
scarcely recognizable as a Colonial structure; it is interesting, never-
theless, because the stone end walls and first story are parts of a struc-
ture that tradition says .was the JOHN WINTHROP FORGE. This
building was continuously in use as a blacksmith shop until 1920.

Near the center of East Haven is the junction (L) with Heming-
way Avenue. On the SW. corner, facing the green, is the STEPHEN
THOMPSON HOUSE (private), with stone end walls and overhanging
eaves, dating from 1760.

Left on Hemingway Ave. four blocks is the ELNATHAN STREET
HOUSE (1810), a splendidly preserved example of early 19th century
construction, with an entrance porch in the Greek Revival style, said
to have been built at the time of the original structure.

Left from East Haven village on Thompson St. to New Haven's MUNICIPAL
AIRPORT, opened in 1931. It has a field capacity of 200 ships, a hangar, and
modern equipment.

At 67.9 m. is the intersection with State 142.

Left on State 142 are MOMAUGUIN POINT, 2.4 m., and other beaches,
lined with summer cottages.

At 69.3 m. is the intersection with Woodward Ave.

Left on Woodward Ave. to FORT HALE PARK, 1.8 m., with spacious, hilly,
wooded grounds and a public bathing beach. MORRIS COVE, 2.4 m., is one of
the less crowded shore resorts. LIGHTHOUSE POINT, 3.4 m., is a popular
municipal park and resort for those who seek a safe, clean beach with ample
parking space and the usual shore amusements.

At 70.2 m. US 1 passes over the northern cove of New Haven
Harbor, following Bridge St. and State St.

NEW HAVEN, 71.2 m. (162,655 pop.), university community
(see CONN. GUIDE).

Points of Interest. New Haven Green (see illustration), Center Church, New Haven
Colony Historical Society Museum, Yale University, East Rock rose garden,
Peabody Museum, and the Gallery of Fine Arts.

CONNECTICUT 105

Section 9. New Haven to New York Line, 47.8 m.

Westward from New Haven, m., is the Allingtown section of
West Haven Town. At the top of Allingtown Hill, 2 m., is the inter-
section with Prudden St.

Right on Prudden St. one block is a small triangular green (L), with a MONU-
MENT TO WILLIAM CAMPBELL, a British adjutant who, among other acts of mercy,
saved the life of the local pastor, who had broken a leg in his flight from the Red-
coats when they invaded the town on July 5, 1779. That same day the officer
was mortally wounded.

The highway, here called the Milford Turnpike, cuts cross-country
in a southwesterly direction to the Housatonic River.
At 6.6 m. is the intersection with State 152.

Right along State 152 are the extensive FAIRLEA FARMS (R), where acidophilus
milk was first developed; the road traverses fertile farming country to the center
of ORANGE, 1.7 m. (1,530 Town pop.), overshadowed by its white CONGREGA-
TIONAL CHURCH (1810). The RACEBROOK COUNTRY CLUB, off Derby Rd., has one
of the outstanding golf courses in Connecticut.

At 7.7 m. US 1-Alt. branches R. to bypass Milford.

At 9.5 m. on US 1 is MILFORD (Milford Town 14,870 pop.), a
pleasant little residential community centered around the long elm-
shaded village green. The little Wepawaug River flows through the
center of the town and under numerous bridges, finally tumbling
over a dam into a shallow bay so filled with silt and sand that it is
navigable for only the smallest craft.

The town, an offshoot of the New Haven settlement, was founded
in November 1640 for Milford in Pembroke, England. From the land
of the original township, which extended 20 miles N., five separate
towns have since been made.

Oysters and clams have been important Milford products since the
earliest days of the settlement. The Connecticut Oyster Farms Com-
pany of Milford owns 7,400 acres of undersea oyster beds; there are
many other large oyster firms in the town. Oyster farming is a typical
Connecticut industry conducted on underseas acreage along the
bottom of Long Island Sound. The shellfish are planted, cultivated,
and harvested like any other crop. Pollution is a serious problem;
efforts are made by the State authorities to eliminate this hazard
through the gradual cleaning up of tributary streams that empty
into the sound.

io6 U. S. ONE

The CAPT. SAMUEL EELS HOUSE (open weekdays, small fee), 34 High
St., owned by the Milford Historical Society, was built by Captain
Eels about 1689, and is an authentic 17th century type. The sharply
twisting "dog-legged" stairs are among its many unusual features.
The wide, coved cornice at the front is one of the two of this once-
common style now preserved in Connecticut. The position of the
chimney, back of the ridge, is typical of the period of its erection.
After 1754 this dwelling was the home of Capt. Stephen Stow, who
served heroicly as a volunteer nurse to 46 Revolutionary War prison-
ers, smallpox victims set ashore by a British prison ship on New
Year's Eve, 1777; they were cared for at the homes of settlers until
the next day, when the Town Hall was converted into a hospital.
Stow and all the prisoners who died were buried in a common grave.

The old BURYING GROUND on Prospect St. is one of the oldest
formal cemeteries in the State; in use since 1675, it contains the
graves of Jonathan Law, Governor of Connecticut (1742-51);
Robert Treat, Commander of the Connecticut troops during King
Philip's War, Deputy Governor and Governor of the State for 32
years, and founder of Newark, N. J.; and the Reverend Samuel
Andrew, rector of Yale College (1707-19). Here also stands a
MONUMENT TO CAPT. STEPHEN STOW, marking the common grave
where he and his patients are buried.

The charm of Milford centers about its two Congregational
churches, West Main St., which stand on opposite banks of the
Wepawaug and form a New England picture of unusual beauty.
The FIRST CHURCH (1823), said to have been designed by David
Hoadley, is of a type that became the flower of Connecticut's best
period of church architecture. The design was copied in the Congre-
gational Church in Cheshire, and by Levi Newell in the Southington
and Litchfield Congregational Churches. It has a graceful Ionic
portico, shielding three arched doors of approximately even height,
and a belfry in two stages one octagonal and one open and sur-
mounted by a spire. The interior has a finely proportioned gallery
and domed ceiling. PLYMOUTH CHURCH (1834), its neighbor, is in the
heavier, more matter-of-fact Doric of the developed Greek Revival
style. It serves the United Church as a parish house, and in summer
as a playhouse.

The CLARK TAVERN, 46 West River St., is reputed to have been
erected in 1660, but was so drastically remodeled between 1815 and

CONNECTICUT 107

1875 that only an interior examination justifies an earlier date.
Washington stopped here for supper in 1799, when the building was
kept as a tavern by Andrew Clark. According to the story of his visit
as originally told by Grandmother Clark and handed down by her
descendants, when Washington was served with the milk and bread
he had ordered for his supper, he objected to the pewter spoon and
asked for a silver one. When told that the tavern did not afford silver
spoons, he handed a shilling to an attendant and directed that he
"go to the minister's and borrow one."

The Milford bypass merges with US 1 (L) W. of Milford center at
8.6 m.; the route continues to the village of DEVON, 12.1 m.
(Town of Milford), a residential community with beaches and cot-
tages on the shore to the S.

The WASHINGTON BRIDGE, 12.4 m., carries US 1 over the Housa-
tonic River into Fairfield County. Here is the SITE OF A FERRY that
started operations in 1650 under Moses Wheeler, said to have been
the first white centenarian in the country. South of the bridge was the
scene of the cross-river swim (1649) of a Milford man who thus
evaded a public lashing to be administered for breaking the blue
laws. His offense had been to kiss his wife on the Sabbath. He was
later joined by his family in Stratford, where he subsequently
became a leading citizen.

At 13 m. US 1 turns L. to pass through Stratford, US 1-Alt. by-
passing the business section of the village.

STRATFORD, 14 m. (Stratford Town 19,212 pop.), a village
with many well-preserved old houses, is now principally a residential
suburb of Bridgeport, though it also has some factories. Early activi-
ties were confined to shipbuilding and oyster fishing.

On Main St. (US 1) is (L) the oldest EPISCOPAL BURYING GROUND
in the State, laid out in 1723 at the rear of CHRIST CHURCH.

In Stratford the Reverend Samuel Johnson organized a congrega-
tion and built the first Episcopal church in Connecticut (1723-43).
Atop the present building is a weathercock from the spire of the
original structure, still bearing the bullet holes of British marksmen
under Colonel Frazier, who, when quartered here in 175758,
amused themselves by using the vane as a target.

The conspicuous DAVID JUDSON HOUSE (open daily, adm. 25 1\ on
Main St. (L), now owned by the Stratford Historical Society, has in
its doorway the earliest bull's eye glass in the State. In the cellar of

io8 U. S. ONE

the house (1723) is a great fireplace with two Dutch ovens; the oak
beam forming the cellar lintel is 18 inches square. There is a notable
example of the early use of fluted pilasters in the upstairs paneling.

A block L. of the Post Road and paralleling it is Elm St., on which
are many well-preserved old houses dating from the early 18th
century.

US 1 turns R. from Main St. into Stratford Ave.

Left from the corner of Main St. and Stratford Ave.; Main St. passes the
Sikorsky airplane plant (L), where amphibian "clipper" ships are made, and the
BRIDGEPORT AIRPORT (R), formerly the Mollison Airport, so named for the
British fliers who crashed here in 1933 after their successful flight over the At-
lantic. Across the most extensive salt meadows in Connecticut is the solitary old
LIGHTHOUSE (1822) at STRATFORD POINT, 3.3 m. In Long Island Sound,
6.5 miles due S., is the STRATFORD SHOAL LIGHTHOUSE.

US 1 crosses the newest of the many bridges that gave the city its
name.

BRIDGEPORT, 17.3 m. (146,716 city pop.), industrial center
(see CONN. GUIDE).

Points of Interest. Burroughs Library Historical Collections, Seaside Park,
Beardsley Park, Anne Hathaway Cottage, Barnum House Museum, Stratfield
Cemetery, and others.

At 22 m. is FAIRFIELD (17,218 Town pop.), an old Colonial
town. At the business center on the modern highway are small neat
shops, a motion picture theater, a modern brick bank building of
Colonial design, and a library. In sharp contrast is the old town cen-
ter, a block S. There, beneath the shade of towering elms, 18th and
1 9th century mansions, standing back from the road on wide lawns,
border the winding streets about the old white Town House.

Around the edges of the township, especially on the eastern
boundary, industry has made use of lands not suited to residential
purposes.

The Fairfield land was twice purchased from the Pequonnock
Indians on May 11, 1639, and on June 24, 1649; a quit claim deed
was obtained from the Sasco Indians, February 11, 1661. Named
possibly in a descriptive sense, or for Fairfield in Kent, the settlement
soon received a patent. Anticipating the confiscatory methods of Sir
Edmund Andros, who claimed all unoccupied lands for the Crown,
the territory was divided into lots that ran from the shore inland for
about ten miles.

CONNECTICUT 109

During the Revolution the village was burned by British raiders
under General Tryon. Driving the militiamen back to the hills, the
British looted and fired the village during a severe thunderstorm.
About 200 houses were destroyed and the resulting bitterness aided
recruiting of the Continental Line. Whaleboat crews conducted
reprisals upon the Tories of Long Island and many Fairfield sailors
sought vengeance upon British shipping.

The FAIRFIELD MEMORIAL LIBRARY (open 9-8:30), SE. corner
Unquowa Rd. and New Post Rd., a two-story brick building with
limestone trim, belongs to a society organized and incorporated in
1876. Memorial Hall, on the second floor, is notable for its panels
commemorating early settlers. One wing of the building is devoted
to the exhibits of the Fairfield Historical Society, which include
many rare old books, early town documents, and maps.

The TOWN HOUSE, corner Old Post Rd. and Beach Rd., on the
green, was originally built in 1794. The central part, a dignified,
hip-roofed, white clapboard structure surmounted by a white belfry,
has been restored to the original lines. Restoration in 1937 included
the addition of wings to provide office space. At the western end of
the green was formerly a pond in which suspected witches were given
"trial by water." If they floated they were believed to be guilty, but
if they sank they were adjudged innocent. Here Mercy Disbrow and
Elizabeth Clawson were bound and thrown into the water. Accord-
ing to records of the time, "they buoyed up like a cork." At the edge
of the green stands the old TOWN SIGN POST, still in use.

The THADDEUS BURR HOUSE (private), built in 1790 on the Old Post
Rd. between Beach and Penfield Rds., and now surrounded by lofty
elms, is a house whose present appearance belies its age. Built to
replace the original Burr Homestead, destroyed during the British
invasion, it was a copy of the Hancock House in Boston, and all of
the glass for the windows was the gift of John Hancock. The colon-
nade of heavy Tuscan pillars, the front doorway, and the third story
were added about 1840. In the garden is a hedge of very old arbor
vitae. In the original homestead, John Hancock and Dorothy
Quincy were married August 8, 1775. Dorothy had been a visitor
here during the siege of Boston and carried on a gay flirtation with
Col. Aaron Burr, much to the discomfort of her fiance.

The old MILESTONE, on Mill Plain Rd., about 1,500 ft. N. of the
Post Road, is one of the stones erected along the old coach routes by

no U. S. ONE

Benjamin Franklin in 1753, and is inscribed "F XX M N H" (Fair-
field. 20 miles to New Haven).

At 23.1 m. is a junction with Bronson Rd., where US 1 crosses the
railroad on a concrete overpass.

Right on Bronson Rd., which turns N. by way of an overpass and goes up to
the Colonial settlement of GREENFIELD HILL (Town of Fairfield), 3.3 m.,
site of the academy conducted by the Reverend Timothy Dwight from 1786 until
1795, when he became president of Yale College. Grouped about the green are
numerous old houses and taverns, and nearby (west side of Hillside Rd.) is the
HUBBELL HOUSE (1751), where Dr. Dwight held his first classes before the erec-
tion of the academy building, now gone. In spring the village streets are beautiful
with pink and white dogwood; there are excellent views of the sound from several
points.

At 24.1 m. (L) among some willows is a granite monument mark-
ing the SITE OF THE GREAT SWAMP FIGHT, which ended the Pequot
War in July 1637, when the survivors of that hostile tribe were either
killed or sold into slavery. Subsequently, this fertile territory was
settled in comparative peace.

WESTPORT, 27.9 m. (Westport Town 6,073 pop.), is a village
in a town that is chiefly residential; many artists and literary folk
have established studios and permanent homes along the shore and
about the countryside.

Among the residents are Van Wyck Brooks, author of The Flower-
ing of New England; Lillian Wald, founder of the Henry Street Settle-
ment; John S. Curry, the artist; Rollin Kirby, the cartoonist; and
William McFee, the author of sea stories.

On the hill that US 1 descends to reach the center of Westport is
the well-proportioned CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH (L), shining- white
behind tall spruces.

On the brow of the hill in the western end of the village stands (L)
the BEDFORD HIGH SCHOOL, gift of a native son. In the school audi-
torium are murals painted by John Steuart Curry, a prize winner in
the Carnegie International Exhibit of 1933, whose work is also repre-
sented at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. The Curry
murals here depict Tragedy and Comedy., and include such recogniz-
able figures as Little Eva, Uncle Tom, Charlie Chaplin, Sherwood
Anderson, Theodore Dreiser, Eugene O'Neill, Mickey Mouse, Will
Rogers, Hamlet, a Kewpie doll, and Mr. and Mrs. Curry. Friends
and neighbors served as models for some of the figures.

CONNECTICUT in

Right from Westport on State 57 through rough hill country to WESTON,
5 m. (Weston Town 670 pop.). From this high ground are fine views of the sur-
rounding countryside, especially from the lawn of the CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH
(1830), a simple, well-proportioned structure, whose small windowpanes are
now turning violet through age. At the entrance to a residence across the way are
old gas lampposts that once lighted New York City street corners. The street
names can still be discerned.

At 31.1 m. a right-angle turn (L) leads past the Norwalk Green.
NORWALK, 31.5 m. (Norwalk Town 36,019 pop.), industrial
center (see CONN. GUIDE).

Points oj Interest. Town House with D.A.R. collection, Roger Ludlow Memorial,
Theater-in- the- Woods, and numerous old houses.

Left from Norwalk at the traffic rotary is SOUTH NORWALK, 1.2 m.
(Town of Norwalk), where the manufacturing plants of the town are concen-
trated.

US 1 now passes a succession of hot-dog stands, gasoline stations,
and billboards.

DARIEN, 35.6 m. (Darien Town 6,951 pop.), is a residential
village largely peopled with commuters to New York. To the S.
winding lanes go down to Long Island Sound; N. of the main road
the wooded countryside is dotted with homes.

Right from Darien on State 29 to NEW CANAAN, 5.1 m. (New Canaan
Town 5,456 pop.), which has carefully tended country estates and polo fields.
This town is exclusively a residential community, situated on high ridges, which
in many places afford views of the sound.

On Mead St., close to the center, is the NEW CANAAN BIRD SANCTUARY in
MEAD MEMORIAL PARK, one of the first established in the United States.

Left from New Canaan on Railroad Ave., R. on Weed St., L. on Wahackme
Road to its termination at Ponus Road, and R. on that highway, to the PONUS
MONUMENT, 1.3 m., erected in honor of Chief Ponus, to mark the old Indian trail
that led to the Hudson River.

In the western part of the Town of Darien US 1 passes the village
of NOROTON, 37.2 m., named for Chief Rooaton, whose name is
also preserved in the place names of nearby Rowayton and Roton
Point.

Left from Noroton on Ring's End Rd. to Swift's Lane (L), 0.3 m., where a
miniature COLONIAL VILLAGE (private), a collection of small old buildings moved
from various New England towns, is visible from the roadway.

At the end of Ring's End Road, 0.5 m., on the waterfront is the old MILL AND
CUSTOMHOUSE, erected in 1737.

ii2 U. S. ONE

STAMFORD, 40.2 m. (56,765 pop.), manufacturing and resi-
dential city (see CONN. GUIDE).

Points of Interest. Old houses, Stamford Museum.

Right from Stamford on State 104, 8.3 m., to the junction with a cross-
country path that runs 0.2 m. to the precipitous gorge of the Mianus River on
the New York Line. Within the shade of primeval hemlocks, the narrow river
swirls through dark pools and tumbles over shoals strewn with boulders of pink
quartz, forming one of the wildest spots near New York City.

At 41.4 m., midway between the railroad and the Post Road along
the Stamford-Greenwich town line, is LADDIN'S ROCK (L), on a
private estate. According to local legend, Indians attacked the home
of an old Dutch settler, Cornelius Labden, who was forced to see his
family scalped. But Labden escaped; he leaped upon his horse and
galloped through the hemlocks toward the brink of a cliff crying,
"Come on ye foul fiends; I go to join your victims." In the rush of
pursuit, the Indians blindly rode their horses over the cliff, and all
went crashing to their deaths at the jagged base.

The CONDE NAST PRESS, at 41.5 m., is a modern industrial plant in
landscaped surroundings. Here are published House Beautiful and
Vogue.

At 43 m. the highway runs through MIANUS, named for Chief
Mayannos, and then crosses the river below a dam that impounds
the waters of old DUMPLING POND (R). When the British raided this
section in 1779 some of the soldiers tarried at the gristmill, then a
century old, about 1.5 miles upstream from the present bridge.
They invited themselves to a meal of dumplings that the miller's
wife chanced to be making; she told them to wait a few minutes
until the food was cooked. Taking advantage of a lapse in their at-
tention, she irately threw the dumplings into the millpond, an act
commemorated in the name.

COS COB, 43.8 m. (Town of Greenwich), is a village bearing the
name of an Indian chief.

On the plains N. of the millpond immediately L. of US 1, are a
large BURIAL MOUND and the SITE OF THE INDIAN VILLAGE OF
PETUQUAPAEN. Here the Dutch and English united to annihilate the
Siwanoy tribe, which had been resisting the encroachments of white
settlers upon the Indians' best hunting ground. According to a con-
temporary account, "the Lord having endued the colonists with ex-
traordinary strength," not a man, woman, or child of the several

V-

HUTGHINSON RIVER PARKWAY, SAXON WOODS, NEW YORK

US 1, STRETCH OF NEW JERSEY

CONNECTICUT 113

hundred inhabitants escaped the fire set to their wigwams on a bitter
February night in 1644, "nor was any outcry whatsoever heard."
Public thanksgiving and general rejoicing were the order of the day
when this news reached New Amsterdam.

Conspicuously situated (L) on the western shore of Cos Cob
Harbor is the POWER HOUSE of the main line of the New Haven
Railroad.

At 45.4 m. US 1 climbs PUT'S HILL. Here in 1779 General
Israel Putnam made his escape by horse from the British. Although
the Tories abandoned their chase at the brink of the precipice down
which the daring Putnam plunged, they succeeded in firing a bullet
through his hat. At this, he turned around in his saddle and is sup-
posed to have shouted his favorite oath, "God cuss ye, I'll hang ye to
the next tree when I catch ye."

At the top of the hill is the stone CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH (L),
for years a guide to fishermen far out in the sound, and visible for
many miles in all directions.

GREENWICH, 45.8 m. (33,1 12 pop.), residential city (see CONN.
GUIDE).

Points of Interest, Bruce Mansion Museum, Putnam Cottage with D.A.R. col-
lection, Indian Burial Ground, Little Captain's Island (public bathing beach),
many beautiful estates, and fine old houses.

Left from Greenwich on Greenwich Ave. ; then on Steamboat Rd. to the dock,
0.9 m., for boats plying to LITTLE CAPTAIN'S ISLAND, 2.5 miles offshore
(round trip 25$. Here is a public picnic ground and bathing beach (Island
Beach) . A mile distant is the old stone lighthouse on the rockbound tip of GREAT
CAPTAIN'S ISLAND, southernmost extremity of New England. These islands
named for Captain Patrick, the earliest settler in Greenwich and BYRAM
POINT, on the mainland, are the only points in New England lying below the
forty-first parallel. From Great Captain's Island the skyscrapers of New York City,
20 miles distant, seem a mirage rising over the water.

US 1, here lined with roadside stands catering to every conceivable
demand of a motoring public, continues to the New York Line at
the Byram River, 47.8 m. On the Connecticut bank of the stream
(L) is the weathered LYON HOUSE (1670), a modest outpost bordering
the current of the heaviest traffic along the Atlantic seaboard.

NEW YORK

Conn. Line Port Chester New Rochelle New York NJ.
Line, 22.2m. US 1.

New York, New Haven & Hartford R.R. and New York, Wcstchester & Boston

R.R. parallel this route.

Four-lane concrete roadbed except for macadam stretches through business

centers. Complex network of roads in Westchester County makes it necessary to

follow directions carefully.

Accommodations limited because of proximity to New York City.

Section 70. Connecticut Line to New Jersey Line, 22.2 m.

This section of the through route, known as the Boston Post Road,
follows the shore of Long Island Sound across Westchester County, a
county of suburban homes, large estates, and wealthy clubs, of
natural beauty in proximity to carefully landscaped parkways.

At the Connecticut-New York Line US 1 crosses the Byram River,
which runs along the northwestern border of PORT CHESTER,
m. (34 alt., 22,622 pop.), first known as Saw Pit, which was
settled about 1650. The Byram River, now the State Line, in Colonial
days flowed through the center of the village. Unlike other commun-
ities on the route, Port Chester is partly dependent on its manufac-
turing plants. The principal products are candy, ammonia, nuts and
bolts, furnaces, coal and gas ranges, soft drinks, and commercial
cartons.

At 0.5 m. (R) is the five-story PLANT OF LIFE SAVERS, ING. (guide
service free)., national headquarters of the confectionery firm.

The PORT CHESTER LIBRARY AND MUSEUM, Westchester Ave. and
Haseco St., contains a collection of Currier and Ives prints, Japanese
and Chinese furniture imported by local sea captains, amusing col-
lection of political campaign buttons of recent years, and several
Indian implements found in the vicinity.

The SAMUEL BROWN HOME, Browndale PL, was built in 1660. The
house has been altered several times and a wing was added to the
original structure 70 years ago; but interior walls, doors, and floors
are unchanged. The Dutch oven and the fireplaces have been
sealed.

The BROWN GRAVEYARD, Indian Rd., a huddle of fallen tomb-
stones in an overgrowth of brambles and trees, was the private

114

NEW YORK 115

burial ground of descendants of the Brown family from 1660 to 1900.
Forgotten today, it lies at the rear of a vacant lot between modern
bungalows.

The BUSH HOMESTEAD (1750), Lyon Park overlooking King St.
(open Tues., Thurs., Sat., 9-4:30; apply to caretaker), a well-preserved
house (see illustration) in the Colonial style, built shortly before the
Revolution by Abraham Bush, a sea captain, was the headquarters
in 1777-78 of Gen. Israel Putnam. The original furniture has been
preserved, including the bed and desk used by "Old Put." Aaron
Burr, as a colonel under Putnam, visited the house frequently.

US 1 winds through the narrow streets of the business district and
beneath railroad crossings to the southern edge of the village.

Right from the State Line on Putnam Ave.; at 0.7 m. L. on N. Regent St.
(State 120 B); at 1.5 m. R. on Westchester Ave. (State 119, 120); at 4.2 m. R.
on the Hutchinson River Parkway (see illustration)', at 4.3 m. L. on Parkway. This
parkway, a four-lane road, cuts through terraced and forested countryside of
Westchester County and provides an alternate route between the Connecticut
Line and New York City. While somewhat longer than the main route, it is
more scenic and is free from busses and trucks, traffic lights, and cross traffic
(speed limit of 35 m.p.h. strictly enforced}. Traffic from side entrances and exits is
regulated by a system of islands separating north- and south-bound traffic.

For the first eight miles the parkway is bordered by public and private golf
courses and large estates. At 7.1 m. is SAXON WOODS PARK, the county's 749-acre
recreational development, containing bridle paths, trails, picnic grounds, and a
public 18-hole golf course (nominal fees).

At 12.5 m. a traffic circle gives entrance to the Cross County Parkway (R).

At 15.8 m. the parkway swings L. to join US 1, 0.2 m. E. of the New York
City Line (see below).

At 1.6 m. on US 1 is RYE (49 alt., 37, 495 pop.), settled in 1660
by people from Greenwich, Conn. The Post Road here roughly
follows the line of an Indian trail from Manhattan Island to a "wad-
ing place" across the Byram River. The first country road was laid
out in 1672. In size a city, but an incorporated village by preference,
Rye is visible from the highway only as a series of landscaped apart-
ment houses and mansions.

The JAY MANSION (not open), Locust Ave. and Post Rd. (R), a
two-story structure, Greek Revival in style, was built in the second
quarter of the 1 9th century on the site of the home of John Jay. It
was Jay who was largely responsible for the draft of the first New
York State Constitution and who helped negotiate the treaty of
peace with Great Britain at the end of the Revolutionary War. From

u6 U. S. ONE

1790 to 1794, as first Chief Justice of the U.S. Supreme Court, he
handed down important decisions interpreting the new Federal
Constitution. After serving two terms as Governor of New York, he
retired to this 800-acre estate in 1801 and became a gentleman
farmer, writing conservative political advice to newspaper editors
for 28 years. His body lies in the family plot in the rear of this
house.

The HAVILAND INN (open), on Purchase St. (R), was built in 1730
and is now the village hall. The original windows are intact; the
beams are wooden-pegged; hand-hewn shingles cover three-quarters
of the structure; several of the doors have Colonial "HL" hinges.
Dame Tamar Haviland, a war widow, was here hostess to Washing-
ton on several occasions. John Adams and General Lafayette danced
Virginia reels in the ballroom on the second floor.

At 3.4 m. is a junction with Cross County Parkway.

Left on the parkway to PLAYLAND, 0.9 m. (open all year; free parking), the largest
recreational center in Westchester Co. The 273 acres include a salt-water bathing
beach with accommodations for 10,000, a boardwalk, a fresh- water swimming
pool, a dance hall, a skating and hockey rink, a picnic grove, and an amusement
park (open summer).

The RYE COUNTRY CLUB (not open to public), 4.1 m. (L), is an
exclusive social center.

MAMARONECK (Ind., he assembles the people), 5.2 m. (47 alt.,
11,766 pop.), was settled by English farmers about 1650. Woolen
cloth, food, perfume oil, and motor oil factories provide local em-
ployment for some of the residents, but the majority are commuters
to New York City. Seven yacht clubs have private basins along the
jagged shore line of the village harbor. Swinging between private
estates, the Post Road swings to Long Island Sound, but presents
only a dismal view of marshland, fishing huts, and boat docks. The
estates of Ethel Barrymore, James Montgomery Flagg, and Robert
("Believe It or Not") Ripley are near the village.

Inns and taverns, decorated with chromium in the modern man-
ner, are numerous S. of the village.

At 6.2 m. is the junction with State 126 (Mamaroneck Ave.).

Right on State 126 just beyond the junction is CLOSET HALL (R), now a gas sta-
tion and restaurant. James Fenimore Cooper, the novelist, lived in this house
after his marriage with Susan DeLancey of Mamaroneck. The building formerly
stood on Heathcote Hill, overlooking the sound.

NEW YORK 117

At 6.6 m. is a junction with Orienta Ave.

Left on Orienta Ave. to beach and yacht clubs on the sound, 1.3 m. On this
street stood the early movie studios of D. W. Griffith, screen pioneer. The produc-
tions Way Down East, Orphans of the Storm, and Valley Forge were filmed with local
backgrounds.

LARCHMONT, 7.7 m. (100 alt., 5,282 pop.), is a residential
community with no industries. More than half the population
commutes daily to New York City.

NEW ROCHELLE, 8.9 m. (72 alt., 54,000 pop.), suburban city
(see N.T. GUIDE).

Railroad Stations. N.Y./N.H., & H. R.R., R.R. Place between North Ave. and
Mechanic St.; N.Y., Westchester & Boston R.R., Port Chester Ave. and Quaker
Ridge. Trains at 15-min. intervals during rush hours.

Points of Interest. Jacob Leisler Monument, Thomas Paine Memorial and
Museum, Salesian College, Hudson Park, the College of the City of New Ro-
chelle, Fort Slocum Ferry, Glen Island, the Casino, and others.

Left from New Rochelle on Echo Ave., R. on Pelham Rd. to State IB, the
Shore Rd., which closely follows the shore of Long Island Sound to the New York
City Line. Views of the sound are almost continuous.

At 2.1 m. (R) is BOLTON PRIORY (not open), built in 1838 by the Reverend
Robert Bolton. Washington Irving, a friend of the Bolton family, gave yellow
bricks from the old Dutch Church at Sleepy Hollow for the lettering of the con-
struction date above the door.

CEDAR KNOLL (L) was for many years believed to be haunted on moonlight
nights by decapitated Siwanoy warriors holding their heads in their hands.

At 2.4 m. (L) is the NEW YORK ATHLETIC CLUB (private), one of New York
City's wealthiest sport clubs. The clubhouse, visible beyond wide landscaped
lawns, is Italian. Renaissance in style.

PELHAM MANOR, 11.4 m. (100 alt., 11,851 pop.), a purely suburban
community, was named for Thomas Pell, who in 1664 purchased
lands along the sound from the Siwanoys. The title was later con-
firmed by James II of England and the territory formed into the
Manor of Pelham.

At 11.7 m., on Pelhamdale Ave., is the former route of a tiny
trolley that is said to have given Fontaine Fox, the cartoonist, the
inspiration for his Toonerville Trolley sketches. The line followed the
street from Pelham Rd. (State IB) to the Pelham railroad station.

At 12.2 m. is the junction with Split Rock Road.

"~ Left on this road, which runs to the New York City Line, 0.5 m., then SE.
through Pelham Bay Park to Pelham Bridge Rd. (State IB). Split Rock Rd. was

ii8 U. S. ONE

once the private driveway from the manor house of Thomas Pell to the Boston
Post Road. Washington's army retreated along this route after the Battle of Pell's
Point, October 18, 1776, took place in the vicinity of the cleft 10-ft. boulder that
stands (R) near the New York Line.

At 12.4 m. (R) is a junction with the Hutchinson River Parkway,
alternate route from the Connecticut Line (see above).
At 12.5 m. is the junction with S. Fulton Ave.

Right on S. Fulton Ave. to S. Columbus Ave., 1.1 m.; L. on S. Columbus Ave.
to ST. PAUL'S CHURCH AND EASTCHESTER COMMON, 1.2 m. (L). Situated on the
marshy land beside the Hutchinson River, named for Anne Hutchinson, this old
church stands surrounded by giant gas and oil tanks and concrete factories that
here sprawl over the New York City-Mount Vernon Line.

The rectangular church, built in 1761, has stone walls now weathered with
age; it is of a simple style, with a square tower above the front entrance. The bell,
presented long before the Revolution, and cast by Lester and Pack, who also cast
the Liberty Bell, was buried in 1775 to prevent its being made into cannon. It is
still rung at services.

After the Battle of Pell's Point, Hessian troops seized the church and used it as a
barracks and hospital. Ninety Hessians who died the first night were buried in a
sandpit at the foot of the cemetery; the grave is now marked. The cemetery also
contains an Indian grave marker dated 1687, another stone dated 1704, the
graves of many Revolutionary soldiers, and the vault in which was buried George
Washington Adams, the son of President John Quincy Adams who was drowned
nearby in 1829.

The pewholders and vestrymen of St. Paul's at the end of the Revolution in-
cluded members of the Van Cortlandt, Rhinelander, Pinckney, Morgan, Drake,
and Roosevelt families.

Aaron Burr pleaded cases in the church after the Revolution, when it was used
as a courthouse.

f A part of the old village green lies between the church and the sunken highway.
Colonial troops drilled here for both the French and Indian and .the Revolutionary
Wars. Coaches rolled by on the 14-day trip to Boston (today planes pass over the
church on the 85-minute Boston run). In 1733 John Peter Zenger, New York
newspaper editor, was arrested for his account of an election for assemblyman
held here; his release several months later helped to establish the American
principle of freedom of the press.

At Guion's Tavern, situated at the western end of the village green, Washing-
ton paid off his troops after the Battle of White Plains, October 28, 1776. The
desk he used is owned by a member of the church.

At 12.6 m. is the New York City Line. This back door of the
metropolis offers no breath- taking vista; it is but a flat stretch of
Hutchinson River marshes, bridges, and gas stations, with the brick
blocks and old wooden houses of the northernmost Bronx in the
background.

NEW YORK 119

NEW YORK CITY (51 alt., 6,930,450 pop.), most populous
city in the world (see N.Y. CITT GUIDE).

Railroad Stations. Baltimore & Ohio bus terminal, 42nd St. opposite Grand
Central Terminal, W. 23rd St. and Liberty St. ferries; Central R.R. of New
Jersey, W. 23rd St. and Liberty St. ferries; Delaware, Lackawanna & Western,
Barclay St., Christopher St., and W. 23rd St. ferries; Erie, Chambers St. and W.
23rd St. ferries; Lehigh Valley, Pa. Station, Cortlandt St. ferry; Long Island, Pa.
Station; New York Central, Grand Central Terminal, 42nd St. and Park Ave.;
New York, New Haven & Hartford, Grand Central Terminal and Pa. Station;
New York, Ontario & Western, Cortlandt St. & W. 42nd St. ferries; Pennsylvania,
Pa. Station, 7th to 8th Aves., 31st to 33rd Sts., Cortlandt St. ferry; West Shore,
Cortlandt St. and W. 42nd St. ferries.

Points of Interest. The Battery, Central Park, the Empire State Building, Metro-
politan Museum of Art, Museum of Natural History, Museum of the City of New
York, New York Public Library, Radio City, Wall St., and many others.

US 1 cuts through the Bronx and across northern Manhattan; it
crosses the Hudson River on the George Washington Memorial
Bridge (see illustration) to New Jersey. These parts of the city are
essentially residential, with neighborhood shopping centers somewhat
resembling the Main Streets of second-class cities. The elevated
railway structures, the subway kiosks, and occasional views of the
towers of Columbus Circle and beyond, are reminders, however,
that this is part of America's greatest metropolis.

The Bronx, one of the five boroughs of the city, was named for
Jonas Bronck or Brounck, who in 1638 built the first manor house
N. of the Harlem River. When in 1639 the Dutch West India Co.
sold land here the area was called Broncksland, of which the present
borough name is a corruption.

At 12.9 m. the broad macadam highway crosses the HUTCHINSON
RIVER, named for Anne Hutchinson, Boston nonconformist who was
banished by Massachusetts Puritans after violent controversies; she
left Rhode Island after the death of her husband and settled in this
area; in 1643 she was slain by Indians at Throgg's Neck. The river
has been developed as a barge canal, giving access to Long Island
Sound through East Chester Bay.

The banks of the river were one of the sources of the clam and
periwinkle shells that the Indians and the Dutch settlers used as
money. White shells were known as "wampum," black and purple
as "suckauhock."

This approach to New York City is dismal and uninteresting. Gas

120 U. S. ONE

stations, auto junk yards, diners, and third-rate roadhouses line the
highway. Weedy lots sprawl to the backdoors of private homes and
apartment houses.

At 14.5 m. the road crosses a hill in the Williamsbridge section
and gives a view of a jagged mass of apartment houses and modern
stores, with the dim outline of lower Manhattan skyscrapers on the
southern horizon. On the E. are the towers of the Tri-Borough
Bridge, opened in the summer of 1936; spans from 125th St., Man-
hattan, and Southern Blvd., the Bronx, converge on Randalls Island
in the East River; and from there the bridge continues across Wards
Island to end at Astoria Boulevard in Queens.

At 16.3 m., at the edge of Bronx Park, is the junction with Ford-
ham Rd. US 1 turns R. on Fordham Rd.

In the next half mile Fordham Rd. bisects BRONX PARK, 719 acres,
a forested tract along the Bronx River, famous for its zoo (L) and its
botanical gardens (R).

The NEW YORK ZOOLOGICAL PARK (free except Mon. and Thurs.;free
on all holidays), founded in 1 897 and locally called "the Bronx Zoo," has
one of the largest collections of wild animals, birds, and reptiles in the
world. The 160 acres of exhibits, near Lake Agassiz and Bronx Lake,
formed by Bronx River, include, besides bear dens, houses for ele-
phants, lions, primates, zebras, land and aquatic birds, reptiles, large
and small mammals, ostriches, antelopes, kangaroos, and wild swine.
There are restaurants and administration buildings on the grounds.

The buildings are of neo-classical design with brown Tiffany brick
walls and limestone trim. The stone cornices and pediments have
elaborately carved figures of animals.

The NEW YORK BOTANICAL MUSEUM, together with the gardens,
is one of the largest in the world. The gardens date back to the time
of Pierre Lorillard, nature lover and snuff maker, who built a mill
on the river in 1840, later constructed a stone mansion, and set out
large, old-fashioned gardens that are still visible.

After cutting through the park Fordham Road becomes a business
street with department stores, offices, theaters, banks, trolleys, and
busses.

At 16.9 m. is a junction with Southern Blvd. (State 1A).

State 1A, alternate route through the city to Jersey City, follows Southern
Blvd. across the Bronx, and 1st and 2nd Aves. down Manhattan to Houston St.,
and across to the HOLLAND TUNNEL under the Hudson River to New Jersey.

NEW YORK 121

The route offers views of East River shipping and bridges, the Cornell-New
York Medical Center, the Rockefeller Institute of Medical Research, Tudor City,
Bellevue Hospital, sections of New York's East Side, the Bowery, and Greenwich
Village.

On Fordham Rd. (R) at 17.4 m. is FORDHAM UNIVERSITY, largest
Roman Catholic college in the United States. In 1841 when, as St.
John's College, it opened its doors to its first student body of six, its
president was the Reverend John McCloskey, later first American
cardinal. Only part of the courses are offered in the 20 English Gothic
field-stone buildings on the main campus; several branches are main-
tained in downtown Manhattan.

At 18 m. is a junction with Grand Concourse (State 22 and 100),
one of the main thoroughfares of the Bronx, running S. to Madison
and Fifth Aves. in Manhattan.

Right on Grand Concourse is (R) POE PARK, 0.1 m. (adm. free; open weekdays
except Mon., 70-1, 2-4:30; Sun., 1-4:30), containing the white cottage built before
1816, in which Edgar Allen Poe lived from 1845 to 1849. The furniture is in keep-
ing with the period when Poe lived here, but was not used by him. The poet's
young wife, Virginia, died in this house in January 1847.

At 18.4 m. US 1 turns L. on University Ave.

At 18.6 m. is the campus of NEW YORK UNIVERSITY (R), chartered
in 1831, now with a student body of 34,000 and a faculty of 1,800.
The buildings on University Heights house only the colleges of arts,
pure sciences, and engineering, the Guggenheim School of Aeronau-
tics, various administrative units, and extracurricular activities.
Other divisions are in downtown Manhattan, the most important on
Washington Square, and on Long Island. The HALL OF FAME (see
illustration), dominating the campus at the edge of the Harlem River,
is a one-story open arcade with granite base. Bronze busts of the
great men of American history stand in openings between limestone
piers. The arches offer framed views of the Palisades on the New
Jersey shore, and of Manhattan Island.

At 20.1 m. the route turns R. on 181st St. and crosses Harlem
River on a broad concrete bridge with sweeping views of Manhattan
L. and R. The river, really a strait, separates Manhattan from the
mainland. Barge, tug, and steamer traffic splashes busily through the
channel. Below, at the water's edge on the Bronx shore, runs the main
line of the New York Central R.R. Left are the towers of the mid-
town district, with the spiked summit of the Chrysler Building and

122 TJ. S. ONE

the mooring mast of the Empire State Building standing out clearly
from the others.

At 20.9 m. the route crosses BROADWAY, New York's "Main
Street" since the 17th century, first known as Heere Straat.

At 21.1 m. the route turns L. on Fort Washington Ave.

At 21.2 m. the route turns R. on W. 179th St. to the entrance of
the GEORGE WASHINGTON BRIDGE (50 for pleasure vehicles pd. at N.J.
end; 5 for pedestrians), spanning the Hudson River and forming a
dramatic gateway to New Jersey. Construction was begun in 1927;
the cost was $57,000,000. The bridge is of the suspension type with a
graceful 3,500-ft. main span joining the severe steel towers, 630 ft.
high, on the New Jersey and New York shores. These towers are
twice the height of the Palisades at this point, though this fact is not
apparent to those crossing the structure. The roadway in the center
of the bridge is 250 ft. above the water. Four cables, each 36 inches
in diameter and each containing 26,474 wires, provide strength suffi-
cient to support the present deck and an additional deck that can be
added if necessary to meet future traffic demands. Franklin D. Roose-
velt, then Governor of New York, delivered one of the dedication
speeches at the opening of the bridge on October 24, 1931. The
bridge is owned and operated by the Port of New York Authority.

Immediately below the bridge is the SITE OF FORT WASHINGTON
(R), key American fortification on Manhattan Island during the
first year of the Revolution. It occupied the highest part of the island
between the present 181st and 186th Sts. Three thousand Americans,
considered among the best of Washington's troops, surrendered the
fort to General Howe on November 16, 1776, completing the aban-
donment of New York.

From the roadway of the bridge the view southward includes the
tallest buildings of Manhattan, the tower of Riverside Church at
120th St., the unbroken line of apartment houses along Riverside
Drive, the North River berths of the largest ocean liners, and the
busy ferry traffic between the New York and New Jersey terminals.
Northward in the Hudson is the path of summer excursion boats to
Bear Mountain, and of freight and passenger vessels to Albany. On
the New Jersey side, partly hidden by foliage in summer, is the sheer
face of the Palisades, now disfigured in places by factories at the foot
of the cliff. Excavations for the New Jersey Bridge approach revealed
the tracks of dinosaurs in the Triassic rock of the Palisades. This

NEW YORK 123

barricade of rock, once a molten mass, was given the form of columns
when the substance cooled, shrank, and cracked beneath the earth's
surface. It was covered for ages by a layer of sediment several thou-
sand feet deep that was subsequently worn away.
At 22.2 m. is the New Jersey end of the bridge.

NEW JERSEY

N. Y. Line Fort Lee Jersey City Trenton Pa. Line, 68.6 m.
US 1.

Erie R.R. parallels the route N. of Jersey City and Pennsylvania R.R. and
Baltimore & Ohio R.R. between Jersey City and the Pa. Line.
Superhighway of four to six lanes throughout, paved almost entirely with con-
crete. Accommodations in cities along route.

Section 11. New York Line to Pennsylvania Line, 68.6 m.

US 1 in this State, designed to speed the heavy traffic flow between
New York and Philadelphia, avoids most urban congestion and cross
traffic. It bypasses the center of every city. Because the road (see
illustration) runs for miles without a turn and carries more traffic than
any other State highway, many New Jersey residents avoid it. Those
who prefer scenery to speed, and historic landmarks to traffic circles,
turn off at Elizabeth to State 27, an alternate route to Trenton; but
the motorist who likes to test his skill on a modern highway, and is
cautious enough to avoid trouble with the State police, should follow
US 1 . The route is carefully patrolled and traffic regulations are en-
forced.

From George Washington Bridge, where the New York Line is
crossed, US 1 twists through a breath-taking series of underpasses
and overpasses until it straightens out for a gradual descent along the
western slope of the Palisades on the Bergen Turnpike. Metropolitan
residential and industrial development has claimed all of the land
here, except for the marshy lowlands of Overpeck Creek. Westward
are the clusters of commuters' towns, and in the distance the hazy
outline of the Ramapo Mountains. From Jersey City the road sweeps
upward to Pulaski Skyway, giving the last panorama of the New
York City hinterland, a region of smokestacks and marshes, of a few
skyscrapers and many tenements, of patterns in steel rails and con-
fusion in garbage dumps. Between Newark and Linden the industrial
area thins out; southward the highway traverses New Jersey country-
side, with farms, woodland, nurseries, and only an occasional factory
until the outlying part of Trenton is reached. Hills are rare, and
there is little in the landscape to divert the driver's attention from the
long, straight path of concrete lying ahead.

FORT LEE, 1.1 m. (280 alt., 8,759 pop.), appears chiefly as an

124

NEW JERSEY 125

assortment of roadhouses, oil stations, and small eating places. The
residential and business district is off the highway (R). Little of the
community is seen, however, because of the series of highway under-
passes and overpasses designed for automatic sorting of the bridge
traffic. The driver needs to watch carefully for US 1 markers.

During the Revolution this plateau at the crest of the Palisades was
selected by Washington as the site of the fort for which the town is
named. His plan was to prevent the British fleet from sailing up the
Hudson River to West Point. From the rocky bluff, Washington
watched the attack and surrender of his garrison at Fort Washington,
directly across the river, in November 1776. A few days later he was
forced to abandon Fort Lee. The approximate site of the old fort is
marked by a monument, the work of Carl E. Tifft, in MONUMENT
PARK, Palisade Ave. Early in the 20th century Fort Lee became one
of the cradles of the motion picture industry. Serial thrillers are no
longer made here, but a printing studio that normally employs sev-
eral hundred persons still operates. Some of the barn-like buildings
used by the old studios are near the highway (L). A red dome and
gilded cross (L) are on the CONVENT OF HOLY ANGELS.

Swinging S. after its separation from the other bridge exits and
approaches, US 1 crosses Main St., Fort Lee, down which Washing-
ton marched after evacuating the fort. For a short distance the high-
way runs on the western crest of the Palisades ridge. Here there is no
rock wall, but elevation is sufficient to permit a broad view of Over-
peck Creek in the valley below and, beyond the next ridge, the
slender line of the Hackensack River. On clear days the Ramapo
Mountains are visible still further NW.

The road begins its descent to the valley on a long, straight en-
bankment. Below (R) lies the community of PALISADES, with a
cluster of apartment houses, smaller dwellings, and schools.

The recent real estate development of MORSEMERE, 3.6 m.,
has a modern business district in the English cottage style. Another
through highway is in the center of the main street at a lower level ;
US 1 is at street level and turns (L) on an overpass.

In the residential section of Ridgefield, the highway is no longer
concrete paved. A WORLD WAR MONUMENT stands in a small plot
(L); just S. of it is the old SAMUEL WRIGHT HOUSE (R), hugging the
slope. Built in 1790, it is an excellent example of Dutch Colonial
architecture. Dormer windows and other alterations have not spoiled

126 U. S. ONE

the original charm. Other old houses are still standing along this part
of the road.

RIDGEFIELD, 4.5 m. (30 alt., 4,671 pop.), has an unpretentious
shopping center on the highway. The most noticeable building is the
two-story RIDGEFIELD NATIONAL BANK of red brick (R).

South of Ridgefield the highway is almost at the floor of the valley.
Tracks of the Erie R.R. run parallel in the meadowland (R). On
either side of the road are drab homes and factories.

Approach to FAIRVIEW, 5.5 m. (20 alt., 9,067 pop.), is an-
nounced by the acrid smell from a bleachery (R). A few hundred
yards from the highway (R) is a scattered group of 54 small gray
buildings, the plant of the INTERNATIONAL FIREWORKS COMPANY, one
of the largest manufacturers of display fireworks. Here were made the
elaborate fireworks for the inaugurals of Presidents Wilson, Hoover,
and Roosevelt; routine business is the making of "True Lovers'
Knots" and "Fountains of Youth" for conventions of fraternal orders
and for civic celebrations.

Between Fairview and North Bergen the route passes a CEMETERY
(L) and an adjacent MONUMENT WORKS that sells bird baths and
bridge prizes as a side line. The tracks of the West Shore R.R. are
bridged near the entrance to the railroad's tunnel under the Palisades
ridge. The highway, of recent concrete construction, climbs over a
rocky hump. Factory buildings of the NORTH JERSEY INDUSTRIAL
TERMINAL are R. Three miles westward are the twin towers of radio
station WINS at Carlstadt.

On the upward slope (L) are rocky outcroppings of the underlying
Palisades, upon which small houses barely find a foothold. Below, on
the valley's edge (R), are railroad yards and a roundhouse of the
N.Y. Central a scene painted in grays and blacks.

NORTH BERGEN, 8.3 m. (25 alt., 40,714 township pop.), has
churches, stores, a second-hand lumberyard, and two large gas tanks
on or near the highway. The business section gives no indication of
the large number of people living in this residential township.

Entering the outlying northern section of Jersey City, US 1 be-
comes Tonnelle Ave. The highway overpasses the main line tracks
of the Pennsylvania R.R. just W. of the only trunk line tunnel from
New Jersey into Manhattan. The streamlined electric locomotives
operated between New York City and Washington use these tracks.

To the SW. is the irregular hump of SNAKE HILL, lone break in the

NEW JERSEY 127

uniform flatness of the marshlands. Geologists say that it is probably
the eroded stump of an ancient volcano that once cast up enough
molten rock to form the Watchung Mountains, 10 miles westward.
A peculiarity of residential planning along the road here is the
practice of putting tiny huts on stilts. This may be for protection
against dampness in the lowlands (R), but on the hillside it perhaps
merely indicates conformity with the local mores.

The meadowlands have their own skyline. On the banks of the
Hackensack River (R) stand the six great chimneys of a public serv-
ice electric and gas plant, adjacent to a gas and coke plant. Beyond
are small hills of coke, several times the height of a freight car. The
towers of railroad and highway drawbridges are grouped nearby at
the river.

At 11.9 m. the highway crosses the main line tracks of the Erie
R.R. and the Lackawanna R.R., and there is a view of Jersey City's
skyline. No towering office buildings dominate here, but rather the
broad bulk of the American Can Co., which is now (1937) working
three shifts a day, in part because of the use of cans for beer. The gray
stone clock tower of ST. JOHN'S ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH, near
Journal Square in the heart of Jersey City, stands out.

At 12 m. is a traffic circle at the entrance to Pulaski Skyway.

Left from US 1 (straight ahead from the circle) on a concrete highway to the
center of JERSEY CITY, 0.5 m. (80 alt., 316,715 pop.), industrial city (see N.J.
GUIDE).

Railroad Stations. Pa. R.R., Exchange Place; Erie R.R., foot of Pavonia Ave.;
Central R.R. of N.J., Phila. & Reading Ry., and Baltimore & Ohio R.R., foot of
Johnston Ave.; Hudson & Manhattan R.R., Journal Sq., Exchange PL, and
Erie Stations.

Points of Interest. Site of Paulus Hook Fort, Peter Stuyvesant Statue, Old Bergen
Church, Medical Center, Colgate Clock, St. Peter's College, and others.

Swinging R. from the traffic circle, US 1 enters PULASKI SKYWAY.
This steel and concrete viaduct, named for the Polish nobleman who
lost his life in the American Revolution, is 3.4 miles long, rises 145 ft.
above two rivers, and cost $21,000,000. An average of more than
30,000 vehicles used it daily in 1935. This was a pioneer achievement
in the solution of the problem of handling through-traffic in one of
the most congested traffic areas in the world; the situation here was
aggravated by the marshy terrain, which lessened the possible num-
ber of highways and bridges.

i 2 8 U. S. ONE

Climbing an easy grade, the road crosses the Hudson and Man-
hattan R.R. ("the Tubes") and approaches the cantilever span across
Hackensack River. Were it not for the heavy I-beam railing, an ex-
cellent view of the waterways adjacent to New York Harbor and of
the Newark industrial area could be obtained. As it is, however, the
area is in full view only when the two high points of the skyway are
crossed; from those points are seen the tall office buildings of Newark
and the gas tanks of Harrison. Seen by a glance through the railing is
(L) one of the great garbage dumps for which the Newark meadows
are known. Next is seen the large plant of the WESTERN ELECTRIC
Co., at the head of Newark Bay where the Hackensack and Passaic
Rivers unite. The sun glints sharply from the roofs of hundreds of
employees' cars, parked in neat formation next to the factory. To the
rear (L) are the towers of midtown and then downtown Manhattan,
then the slight elevation that is Brooklyn, the gap of the Narrows (en-
trance to New York Harbor), and finally the hilly outline of Staten
Island, 8 miles S. The usual haze from factory smoke often obliterates
part of the view, and the no-parking rule makes use of field glasses
impracticable.

Two more large public service plants of the dominant power and
local transportation company of the State are R. of the skyway. One
of these is unusual because it boils mercury instead of water to operate
its turbine for generating electricity.

The view further (R) is up the valleys of Hackensack and Passaic
Rivers. The best picture of Newark, straight ahead, is from the
cantilever span across Passaic River. At the western end of the sky-
way the highway enters the Newark city limits. Elevated on a fill, the
road takes a straight course through a concentrated industrial area,
with freight tracks of the Pennsylvania R.R. running parallel (R).
Next along the route is one of Newark's less prosperous residential
districts.

Once more the highway climbs, bridging the main freight line of
the Lehigh Valley R.R. It descends on a broad embankment, curv-
ing in a wide arc. On both sides are home-made huts and garden
patches, occupying what was once a dumping ground. Built of ma-
terials salvaged from dumps, the huts have served for several years
as daytime shelters for men, women, and even children from needy
families in Newark, who come here to raise vegetables for immediate
consumption and for canning. The gardeners take almost belligerent

BAYONNE BRIDGE, NEW JERSEY

STATE HOUSE, TRENTON, NEW JERSEY

NEW JERSEY 129

pride in their work, competing for prizes for the best yields. In sum-
mer the huts are brightly decorated with flowers, flags, and lattice-
work.

At 18.1 m. is a traffic circle.

Left from the traffic circle is a paved road leading past the NEWARK AIRPORT,
with a public parking space next to the flying field, 0.2m. Here the motorist may
watch take-offs and landings at the busiest airport of the Nation, mail and passen-
ger terminal for New York City as well as Newark and Jersey City. Each day there
are 122 arrivals and departures of scheduled airliners; the rush hours are from
4:30 to 6:30 p.m. For a view of night-flying, with the large field illuminated by
floodlights, the best time is about 8:30. The airport, established in 1928, was re-
claimed from marshlands by the city of Newark; it represents an investment of
$9,500,000.

At 19.1 m. is the junction with State 21 and State 29, overpassed
by westbound traffic on US 1 .

Right on State 21 is the business center of NEWARK, 1.8 m. (115 alt., 442,337
pop.), industrial city (see N.J. GUIDE).

Railroad Stations. Pa. R.R., Lehigh Valley R.R., and Hudson & Manhattan
Tubes, Raymond Plaza, West; Erie R.R., Broadway (N. Newark) and foot of
4th St.; Delaware, Lackawanna & Western, Broad St. at Lackawanna PL;
Central R.R. of N.J., Broad St. near Edison PL

Points of Interest. Four Corners, Port Newark, Newark Museum, Newark Uni-
versity, Old Stone Schoolhouse, Military Park, Washington Park, and others.

Between this junction and Elizabeth the road is a broad belt of
asphalt with some curves and so crowded with trucks and pleasure
cars that it is of more than usual danger. Concrete paving has not
yet been laid because the earth fill is still settling into the marsh. On
either side of the low embankment the flats are covered with tall
meadow grass and cat-tails, brightened with sunflowers in the summer
months. The meadow (L) is being filled and graded over a large
area for an extension of Newark Airport.

Visible (L) several miles to the S. is the beautiful sweeping arch of
the BAYONNE BRIDGE (see illustration), extending across Kill van Kull
between Bayonne, N.J., and Staten Island, N.Y.; opened to traffic in
1932, this is the longest steel-arch bridge in the world, with a span of
1,675 ft., and the top of its arch is higher than the towers of Brooklyn
Bridge. Almost straight ahead from this point on the roadway is the
cantilever span of the GOETHALS BRIDGE, which has carried traffic
between Elizabeth, N.J., and Staten Island, N.Y., since its comple-
tion in 1928. These bridges, distinguished engineering achievements,

i 3 o U. S. ONE

compare favorably in design with outstanding architectural monu-
ments.

Some of the large industrial plants of Newark (R) are next to the
main line tracks of the Pennsylvania R.R. ELIZABETH AIRWAY
RADIO (L) is a station maintained by the U.S. Department of Com-
merce to guide planes within a radius of 100 miles, by means of the
radio beam, to Newark Airport.

The city limits of Elizabeth at North Ave. are marked by the first
traffic light W. of Jersey City. The highway is safer here, with a grass
strip dividing the street. Frame houses and some industrial and busi-
ness establishments are on both sides of the road. After dipping under
a highway crossing and the main line tracks of the Central R.R. of
N J., the route leads R. at 22.6 m. on E. Jersey St.

ELIZABETH (43 alt., 114,589), industrial and residential city
(see JVJ. GUIDE).

Railroad Stations. Pa. R.R., Central R.R. of N.J., Baltimore & Ohio R.R., and
Reading Ry., Broad St. at the Arch.

Points of Interest. Governor Williamson House, First Presbyterian Church,
Union Square, Nathaniel Bonnell House, Gov. Jonathan Belcher Mansion,
Elias Boudinot House, Liberty Hall, and others.

South of E. Jersey St. the highway passes for a short distance over a
concrete and steel viaduct, bridging cross streets near the center of
Elizabeth. The elevation is enough to give a fine view of the city,
with the needle-like spire of old FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH and
the tall, white tower of UNION COUNTY COURTHOUSE (R). The narrow
channel of ELIZABETH RIVER, crossed by the viaduct, seems unbe-
lievably small to have been an important waterway during Colonial
days and early years of the republic.

US 1 passes through the fringe of an extensive oil refining district.
Storage tanks of the Standard Oil Company are illuminated nightly
with colored lights. A familiar sight is the Standard Oil herd of goats
that keeps the grass around the tanks closely cropped; they are used
instead of mechanical lawnmowers because of the risk of sparks. The
road here enters the first open country W. of George Washington
Bridge.

LINDEN, 25.9 m. (25 alt., 21,206 pop.), has a business district to
serve local people and the endless chain of motor traffic. A large
portion of the population works at local industrial plants. On the
highway (R) is WHEELER PARK, an attractive recreational area

NEW JERSEY 131

maintained by the county. Just beyond the park (R) are two of
Linden's newest and most important industries, the neatly land-
scaped plant of the Gordon Gin Co. and a plant of General Motors.
The Bayway refinery of Standard Oil is within the municipality.
Several miles from US 1 (L) are the twin masts of radio station
WOR's transmitter at Carteret, each 485 ft. high.

RAHWAY, 27.6 m. (20 alt., 16,011 pop.), is another community
of two-story frame houses, with the main business section off the
highway (R). There are some attractive homes in this suburb.

West of Rahway US 1 swings R., ascends an embankment, and
crosses RAHWAY RIVER. The big dome of the NEW JERSEY REFORMA-
TORY, with its buttressed concrete wall and surrounding farm, is close
by the highway (L). A school for juvenile offenders is conducted here,
giving industrial training in several crafts.

The route enters farming country in this section; red barns and
an occasional dairy herd are reminders of the rural setting that was
unbroken until the construction of the speed highway several years
ago, with its attendant lunch rooms and filling stations.

At 30.7 m. is the Rahway Clover Leaf, first highway intersection
of this type built in the country, and a model for later highway-
crossing eliminations. Adjoining the road (R) is a new cemetery
development, one of several modern burial grounds or memorial
parks along the route. Absence of residential neighborhoods on US 1
from this point S. to Trenton should not tempt the driver to excessive
speed, since State police in passenger cars as well as on motorcycles
are frequently encountered. Their uniforms of French gray coats and
dark blue trousers with a broad gold stripe are noteworthy.

At 33.7 m. is ROOSEVELT PARK (R), a tract of 192 acres that is
the first unit of the Middlesex County park system. Unemployed
men under the Emergency Relief Administration and the Works
Progress Administration set to work on a small wilderness of marsh
and underbrush and made a park, well-landscaped and equipped
with all facilities for picnickers. Over the hill is an artificial lake, and
within the park area are the new MIDDLESEX COUNTY TUBERCULOSIS
HOSPITAL, a handsomely designed building erected with the aid of
Federal funds, and the KIDDIE KEEP-WELL CAMP, where under-
nourished children are given summer vacations.

A ravine, through which runs a single-track freight line of the
Lehigh Valley R.R., is bridged as the highway rolls with scarcely

1 32 U. S. ONE

a curve through somewhat undulating country. The landscape here
has few distinctive features. For 5 miles the road is paralleled (L)
by the rusty rails of what was once a high-speed electric line between
Elizabeth and New Brunswick. Electric cars are no longer operated
but every Tuesday a small motorbus, equipped with steel flanges on
the tires, makes one trip as far as Bonhamtown Junction, now the
end of the line. At this point the flanges are removed, the bus is
driven off the rails and turned around, and the flanges replaced.
Weeks pass without any passengers being carried; the sole purpose of
the run is to hold the franchise.

At 35.5 m. is the junction with a concrete and asphalt road. This
point was known as Bonhamtown Junction in the days of trolley
operation.

Left on this road is BONHAMTOWN, 0.8 m. (80 alt., 800 pop.), a country
village with two small churches, a school, and a general store on a winding main
street. The settlement dates far back into the Colonial period, and was the scene
of skirmishes during the Revolutionary War. It is the site of the United States
Army's RARITAN ARSENAL, a large depot for the storage and distribution of
ordnance material (not open to the public). In the magazine area enough ammuni-
tion to supply a field army for more than 30 days can be stored. The cost of plant
and equipment on this 2,200-acre area was $14,000,000; the value of material in
storage is about $240,000,000.

PISGATAWAY, 3.5 m. (120 alt., 2,011 pop.), has a few modern business
buildings scattered along its main thoroughfare. By far the most interesting and
attractive structure in the community is ST. JAMES EPISCOPAL CHURCH (L), a
glistening white building, almost square, with four large pillars and a tiny steeple.
This edifice, the third built by a parish organized in 1714, was consecrated in
1837. It is a reproduction of the church destroyed by the tornado of 1835, which
tossed the pulpit into Raritan River. (The pulpit was found on the shore of Staten
Island, 15 miles away.) The original bell, brought from England in 1702, still
hangs in the belfry.

Curious inscriptions are found on the stones in the adjoining graveyard. One,
dated 1693, tells of twin boys who skipped Sunday service to gather mushrooms
in the woods. The mushrooms were, as the epitaph has it, "poyseond." Another
tombstone is that of Harper, reputedly an atheist, who had obtained the deed to
his new brick house on the day of the 1835 tornado. Celebrating his acquisition at
the village tavern, he ran out into the road when the windstorm struck the town
and defied God to kill him. Hardly had the blasphemous words left his lips, so the
story goes, when the church roof blew off and a flying timber crushed him to
death. Piscataway was the scene of a bitter dispute among its Baptist residents,
beginning in 1705 and lasting for a century. The township became known as
Quibbletown and was so recorded in official documents during the Revolution.
American soldiers bestowed their own nickname: Squabbletown.

At 3.7 m. this side road rejoins US 1.

NEW JERSEY 133

At 36.6 m. US 1 crosses Raritan River on COLLEGE BRIDGE, a
handsome structure of reinforced concrete arches. Part of the campus
of NEW JERSEY COLLEGE FOR WOMEN is visible (R), spread out upon
the bluff above the river. The spire is that of COLONIAL CHAPEL, on
the campus. Beyond are some of the buildings of New Brunswick;
and the view upstreet is not unlike that of Stratford-on-Avon. The
road passes the NEW BRUNSWICK WAR MEMORIAL (L).

At 37.1 m. is the junction with State S-28, at a traffic circle.

Right on State S-28 is NEW BRUNSWICK, 2.5 m. (50 alt., 34,555 pop.),
university town (see N.J. GUIDE).

Points of Interest. Rutgers University, Joyce Kilmer Memorial, Buccleuch Man-
sion, Guest House Museum, Red Lion Tavern, White Hall Hotel, factories, and
old houses.

South of New Brunswick are the grounds of the NEW JERSEY
STATE COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE (R). The main line tracks of the
Pennsylvania R.R. are crossed on a high embankment and bridge.

The highway closely follows the original route of stagecoach days,
when it was an important land link between the water highways of
the Raritan and Delaware Rivers. For almost 25 miles there is no
curve perceptible to the eye, although there are two or three slight
deviations from a straight line. To prevent collisions, the 6-mile
stretch S. of the railroad overpass has been divided by a center strip,
and the work is being continued toward Trenton. The concrete was
forced apart by compressed air to make room for the strip and curbs;
a new subgrade was prepared at the side, and as much as a 500-foot
length was moved into position at one time.

Nurseries and well-kept farms are on both sides of the road. From
a low-lying ridge at 51.1 m. is a view (R) of PRINCETON UNIVERSITY
across the meadowland of an intervening valley. The university
buildings, largely hidden by oaks and elms, are dwarfed by the mas-
sive Tudor tower of the chapel. In the foreground is the bulk of
Palmer Stadium, while through the trees an occasional glimpse of
Carnegie Lake is caught.

At 51.4 m. is the ROCKEFELLER INSTITUTE FOR MEDICAL RESEARCH
(L). In the laboratories here a staff of scientists carries on experimen-
tal work in plant and animal pathology. One of the major problems
of the institute has been the control of the Japanese beetle.

At 52.7 m. is the junction with a dirt road, marked by a gatehouse.

i 3 4 u - s - ONE

Left on this road and visible from the highway is the WALKER-GORDON FARM
(open). Operated by the Borden Milk Company, the plant is known for its roto-
lactor, a revolving platform that combines the method of an automobile assembly
line with the mechanical features of a carousel, for the purpose of milking cows
efficiently. The cows step on and off the platform, milked and stripped in 12^
minutes, after one complete revolution of the wheel. The 1,400 cows are milked
by the rotolactor in less than 6 hours.

PENN'S NECK, 54.9 m. (100 alt.), is one of the most attractive
hamlets on US 1 . Here the road underpasses the Princeton Branch of
the Pennsylvania R.R. Beyond the cut of the hill are two Colonial
mansions; a nursery rose-field (L) provides several acres of color
during the season.

Crossing the abandoned DELAWARE AND RARITAN CANAL on a
drawbridge at one of the few places where water still remains, the
highway runs on to Trenton. At 58 m. (L) is an artificial lake on
Shabakunk Creek, a branch of historic Assunpink Creek. Herons
often alight here, close by the highway.

At 65.9 m. is the junction with US 206, at a traffic circle.

Left on US 206 is the center of TRENTON, 2.2 m. (60 alt., 123,356 pop.),
State capital (see N.J. GUIDE).

Railroad Stations. Pa. R.R., Clinton St. near Greenwood Ave.; Phila. & Reading
Ry., N. Warren and Tucker Sts.

Points of Interest. Battle Monument, State Capitol (see illustration), Masonic
Lodge House Museum, Douglas House, State Museum, Lenox Pottery Works,
and various churches and houses.

Swinging R. from the traffic circle, US 1 runs along the edge of
the city of Trenton, past rows of typical brick houses built close to the
sidewalk as in Philadelphia. The road drops gradually on Calhoun
St. toward the Delaware River, crossing branch lines of the Reading
and Pennsylvania Railroads and the old Delaware and Raritan
Canal feeder. Sanhican Creek, in MAHLON STAGY PARK, is bridged
just before the road ascends a short embankment to the Calhoun St.
Bridge, which crosses the Delaware River. Slow driving is required
on this old structure, which has withstood many floods and ice jams.

At 68.6 m., on the bridge, the Pennsylvania Line is crossed.

PENNSYLVANIA

N.J. Line Morrisville Philadelphia Swarthmore Kennett
Square Md. Line, 83.5 m. US 1.

Reading R.R. parallels the route between Morrisville and Philadelphia; Penn-
sylvania R.R. parallels the entire route.

Well-paved, all-weather route. Accommodations at short intervals; hotels in
cities.

Section 12. New Jersey Line to Maryland Line, 83.5 m.

Between the western bank of the Delaware River and the Mary-
land Line, US 1 pursues a southwesterly course across the undulating
terrain of Bucks County, through the city of Philadelphia, and over
the section of the highway known as the Baltimore Pike.

The highway crosses the Delaware River on the TRENTON-
MORRISVILLE BRIDGE at a point where in 1804 the first bridge across
the Delaware was built.

Bucks County was established in 1 682 by William Penn as one of
the three original counties. The rolling surface and fertile soil of the
county are adapted to agriculture, the chief occupation of the in-
habitants; small farms predominate.

MORRISVILLE, 0.6 m. (21 alt., 5,368 pop.), incorporated in
1804, was named in honor of Robert Morris, "financier of the
American Revolution" and a signer of the Declaration of Independ-
ence. Prior to this time it had been known as the Falls of the Dela-
ware. Morris maintained an imposing mansion and stables, patterned
after the English stables of the period, on a 2,800-acre tract here.
Jean Victor Maria Moreau, one of Napoleon's marshals, who fell
into disfavor, lived in the mansion during his exile. In 1915 the tract
was subdivided and modern dwellings were built upon it.

The first European settlement in the county was made by the
Dutch West India Company on a small island near the western bank
of the Delaware, below the falls. Three or four families lived around
the company's trading post there from 1624 to 1627. Nothing re-
mains of the island except a large sand bar, nearly opposite Morris-
ville. A ferry operated here more than 50 years before Penn's arrival
in America.

Morrisville was seriously considered by Congress as a site for the
permanent capital of the United States, when, on October 7, 1783, a

i 3 6 U. S. ONE

resolution was presented "... that the Federal Town should be erect-
ed on the banks of the Delaware at the Falls near Trenton on the New
Jersey side, or in Pennsylvania on the opposite." Southern interests
sought to have Annapolis chosen as the National Capital; Washing-
ton advised against Morrisville, and Alexander Hamilton, in a
historic instance of logrolling, favored the present site on the Potomac
River. Despite the formidable opposition the Morrisville plan was
defeated by only two votes.

The route passes through narrow streets, with thin sidewalks
flanked by rows of brick houses. At 1.1 m. (R) is a three-story dwell-
ing in the American-Georgian style, built by Thomas Barkley in 1750
and restored in 1921, which served as General Washington's head-
quarters prior to the surprise attack on Trenton that caught the
Hessians in the midst of a Christmas celebration. Barkley 's estate was
the site selected for the proposed Federal buildings.

The highway continues through Penn Valley, which is dotted with
old brownstone and limestone houses. The homes of early Quaker
settlers are identified by dormer windows and wide English chimneys.

At 6.1 m. is OXFORD VALLEY (80 alt., 283 pop.). The Wat-
sons, owners of a large tract of land on the south side of Edge Hill,
were the original settlers. Old brownstone houses, surrounded by
huge trees, are scattered along a hillside that slopes gently downward
to Queen Anne Creek.

According to a possibly erroneous local legend, Oxford was so
named because of the likeness of an ox on the village tavern sign, and
the bad ford over the creek. Valley was added to the name in 1844,
when a post office was opened.

The LANGHORNE SPEEDWAY at 8 m. (R) has attracted many of the
country's best-known automobile race drivers since it was built in
1925. The national motorcycle championship races have been held
here on several occasions.

SOUTH LANGHORNE, 9 m. (120 alt., 789 pop.), is a suburban
development that has grown up around the old Eden post office and
the Langhorne station on the Reading R.R.

Right from South Langhorne on State 113 is LANGHORNE, 0.6 m. (103
alt., 4,333 pop.), formerly called Four Lanes End. This is an attractive residential
town with homes set in well-kept lawns. There are several mansions far back in
spacious grounds. Lafayette stopped at the RICHARDSON HOUSE, 115 E. Maple
Ave., to have his wounds dressed when he was being carried by boat from the

PENNSYLVANIA 137

Battlefield of Brandywine to be placed in the care of the Moravian Sisters at
Bethlehem. It is now the Community House.

Opposite the Community House is the HICKS HOUSE, a brick dwelling built in
1763 by Gilbert Hicks, an officer of the British Crown. Hicks' life was threatened
by the townspeople after he had read from the courthouse steps the Amnesty
Proclamation of General Howe and his brother, Admiral Howe, dated November
30, 1776. He fled the town and joined the British Army in New Jersey. The New
Jersey Legislature held sessions in the Hicks House after being driven across the
Delaware in advance of Washington's retreat in December 1776.

ST. MARY'S MANOR, on Manor Ave., is a school conducted by the Fathers of
the Society of Mary for the education of foreign missionaries.

On State 113 is WRIGHTSTOWN, 7.3 m. (320 alt., 64 pop.). The LENAPE
MONUMENT near a huge chestnut tree in this village marks the starting point of
the Indian Walk. The land involved in the "Walking Purchase" was part of the
tract deeded to William Penn by the Lenni-Lenapes more than half a century
earlier. This tract was to be bounded by the Delaware River and the Neshaminy
Creek, and was to extend as far N. as a man could walk in three days. Penn
"walked out" one and a half days in a leisurely manner and, at a point near
what is now Wrightstown, decided he had as much land as he would need.

When settlements began to infringe on Indian domain the almost-forgotten
treaty was resurrected. After a tribal council the Lenapes agreed to allow the
remaining day and a half to be walked out.

The Penns offered 500 acres of the new tract and five pounds sterling to the
person who walked the greatest distance in the given time. Richard Marshall,
James Yeates, and Solomon Jennings, supposedly fast walkers, were selected.
Three Indians were to accompany them.

Late in September 1735 (some authorities set 1737 as the year), the walkers
started at sunrise from an old tree below the Wrightstown meeting house. The
strenuous pace forced Jennings and two of the Indians to drop out in two and a
half hours. The remaining Indian stopped at Easton. By sundown the north side
of the Blue Mountains had been reached. When the Indians realized the walk
was to continue for another half day, they declared they were being cheated out
of all their good land. An eyewitness said the last part of the first day's journey
was covered by twilight. At sunrise the walk was resumed. Yeates lasted only a
short time. Marshall, continuing alone, by noon reached a spur of the Second or
Broad Mountain, approximately 65 miles from the starting point.

In order to include the rich Minisink lands, the Pennsylvania proprietaries
ordered the surveyors to draw the boundary line at an angle instead of straight.
The Minisink was the ancestral homeland of the Lenapes and, since they felt the
proprietaries had taken advantage of them, they refused to vacate. When, how-
ever, they were ordered to move by the Six Nations Confederation, which claimed
ownership of all Lenape lands by right of conquest, they acceded. Some of them
migrated to Ohio and others to the Wyoming Valley.

The highway traverses beautiful farm country dotted with wooded
sections, and roughly parallels Neshaminy (Ind., two streams or
double stream) Creek (L).

i 3 8 U. S. ONE

OAKFORD, 11.5 m. (88 alt., 500 pop.), is the gateway to one of
Philadelphia's summer bungalow colonies on Neshaminy Creek.
Small frame bungalows are scattered through a wooded ravine
formed by the stream.

At 13.2 m. (R), at the foot of a gradual descent, is a fine example
of an early Colonial farmhouse. Poquessing (Ind., the place of mice)
Creek, 13.6 m., is the dividing line between Bucks and Philadelphia
Counties.

Within the city limits open fields, truck gardens, and small farms
line the highway, and wooded valleys and rolling hills slope away to
meet the sky.

At 15.3 m. is the junction with Red Lion Road.

Right on this narrow macadam road, which passes a commercial airport and
numerous old stone farmhouses, is BRYN ATHYN (Welsh, hill of cohesiveness),
4.1 m. (280 alt., 736 pop.). The BRYN ATHYN CATHEDRAL (open weekdays 3-5
p.m.; Sat. 10-12 a.m. and 3-5 p.m.) is a center of the General Church of the New
Jerusalem (Swedenborgian). The cathedral (see illustration) is being built in 14th
century English Gothic style with later additions in 12th century Romanesque.

A frame chapel was erected here in 1895 by followers of Emanuel Swedenborg
(1688-1772), a Swedish scientist and philosopher who, about 1747, began to
promulgate a new system of theology. In 1908 John Pitcairn donated $30,000 to
the Swedenborgians, and shortly afterward plans were drawn up for a building
program that would take 50 years to complete. The cornerstone of the cathedral
was laid in 1914 and the edifice was dedicated in 1919 the year in which the
society received $2,000,000 under Pitcairn's will.

Raymond Pitcairn, son of John, is (1937) resident architect of the cathedral.
Customs and practices of the building crafts guilds of the Middle Ages have been
adopted; materials are finished by hand, granite is quarried nearby, and all
timber except the teakwood used in the floors and doors is taken from neighboring
woods.

The characteristic cruciform plan of the English parish churches has been fol-
lowed, and a handsome square pinnacled tower, rising to a height of 150 feet
above the crossing, dominates the group. Metamorphosed granite of yellow, red,
green, and gray tints gives the buildings a warm tone.

The main fagade, on the W., consists of a porch of three bays between but-
tresses, surmounted by a stone-carved and pinnacled parapet, with a lofty, five-
light window above. The movement of this fagade to a point 50 feet W. of its
present location is contemplated, to allow the addition of three bays to the nave
of the church.

Within the west door, which is of temporary material but fitted with exquisite
monel metal hinges, is the narthex, also three bays in width.

The chancel is in three sections, each rising three steps above the preceding one.
The Great Altar is similarly elevated three steps above the sanctuary floor and is
12 steps above the nave. The three sections of the chancel are symbolic of the

PENNSYLVANIA 139

three degrees of the internal mind and of the three heavens defined in the Sweden-
borgian faith.

The stained glass windows of the church, depicting the story of the Scriptures,
are exceptionally fine. They are warm in color, except in the sanctuary, where
blue predominates.

From the south transept, there is an entrance into the council building, which
is of simple 12th century Norman design. The hall in this building is notable for
its variety of stone carving. The corbels supporting the roof trusses are carved to
represent the heads of leading characters in the history of the New Church.

The choir hall, entered from the north transept, has a broad white plastered
wall, heavy stone trim, and huge oak beams.

US 1, here Roosevelt Boulevard, leads to Broad St.

Right (straight ahead) from the corner of Roosevelt Boulevard and Broad St.,
on Hunting Park Ave., for US 1-Alt., which avoids the heavy traffic of the city.
Hunting Park Ave. runs down to Schuylkill River; R. here on East River Drive, a
pleasant parkway that crosses City Line Ave. ; L. on this broad avenue to Lans-
downe Ave.; L. on Lansdowne Ave. to LANSDOWNE, 12.2 m., at the junction
with US 1 (see below).

US 1 turns (L) from Roosevelt Boulevard on Broad St. to the CITY
HALL (see illustration).

PHILADELPHIA, 30 m. (408 alt., 1,950,961 pop.), largest city in
the State (see PA. GUIDE).

Railroad Stations. Baltimore & Ohio, 24th and Chestnut Sts.; Pennsylvania,
Broad and Market Sts. and 30th and Market Sts.; Pennsylvania and Reading
Seashore Lines, foot of Market St.; Reading System, North Broad St.; Reading
Terminal, 12th and Market Sts.

Points of Interest. Independence Square Group, Christ Church, Franklin Insti-
tute, Free Library, Art Museum, Rodin Museum, United States Mint, Uni-
versity of Pennsylvania, Fairmount Park, and others.

Right, around City Hall and two squares on Broad St., to Walnut
St.; R. on Walnut to 34th St. where Woodland Ave. intersects; L.
into Woodland Ave. to 39th St. where Baltimore Ave. intersects;
R. into Baltimore Ave. (US 1), which crosses Cobbs Creek.

This creek, the dividing line between Philadelphia and Delaware
Counties, was named for William Cobb, who purchased an old
Swedish mill and a sizable tract of land on the banks of the stream.
The Indians called the creek Karakung (place of the wild geese), and
the Swedes, Amosland. At its mouth on Tinicum Island, Johann
Printz, Governor of New Sweden, in 1643 established a fort and
built a home for himself; not long afterward he started a Swedish
settlement at Upland, nearby, on the site of the present Chester.

i 4 o U. S. ONE

This was the first permanent European settlement in what is now
Pennsylvania.

YEADON (L), 35.5 m. (100 alt., 5,430 pop.), a thickly settled sub-
urban community, with stone and box-like brick houses, was named
for William Bullock's estate, Yeadon Manor. Yeadon is in Delaware
County, which took its name from the river; the river was named for
Thomas West, Lord de la Warr, Governor and Captain-General of
the Colony of Virginia, who explored near its mouth in 1610. The
highway cuts through a corner of the borough, passing FERNWOOD
CEMETERY (R).

LANSDOWNE, 36.8 m. (120 alt., 7,782 pop.), was named for
Lord Lansdowne, a consistent friend of the American Colonies, both
before and after the Revolution. It is a fine residential community
with wide, well-shaded streets and large homes set on broad lawns.
Many of the houses, built during the late 1 9th century, bristle with
turrets and towers and have elaborate decorations. There are also
many half-timbered houses, in modern adaptations of the Eliza-
bethan style.

A 200-year-old SYCAMORE TREE, with a spread of more than 100
ft., stands in front of 47 E. Lacrosse Ave.

CLIFTON HEIGHTS, 38 m. (160 alt., 5,055 pop.), named for
Clifton Hall, residence of Henry Lewis, a Welsh Quaker, became a
borough in 1895. Several large textile mills operate here.

At Springfield Inn is the junction with Saxer Ave.

Right on Saxer Ave. 1.5 m. to the junction with Springfield Rd.; L. of the
junction is SPRINGFIELD MEETING HOUSE. The first meeting house on this site,
built about 1700 by members of the Society of Friends, was made of logs. This
structure, destroyed by fire, was replaced by a stone building in 1738. Eventually
it became inadequate, and in 1851 the present stone edifice was constructed. It
was in the earlier structure that, in 1754, a group of Friends entered into a weighty
discussion concerning the future of young Benjamin West. West wanted to study
art, contrary to his father's wishes. Although the Quakers considered such a
calling frivolous, one of the speakers pleaded the youth's cause so convincingly
that the meeting was constrained to give him its blessing (see below).

The highway continues through a beautiful wooded region check-
ered with fine farms and estates. At 39.4 m. (R) is the TEMPLE
LUTHERAN CHURCH RECREATION CENTER.

At 40.2 m. the highway runs to the N. of MORTON (205 alt.,
1,340 pop.), established as a village about 1866. It was named for

PENNSYLVANIA 141

John Morton, the Pennsylvania delegate to the Continental Congress
in 1776 and a signer of the Declaration of Independence.

The highway descends, passing a large swimming pool (R) and
crossing Stony Creek, a branch of Darby Creek. A typical old Dela-
ware County homestead is passed at 40.6 m.

At 41.2 m. (L) the highway skirts SWARTHMORE (115 alt.,
3,405 pop.), an attractive residential suburb and college town. The
homes here show the American Colonial influence with a simplifica-
tion of detail. Limestone is generally used in construction, and a few
of the houses have double chimneys. The town has almost no business
section.

The community grew around SWARTHMORE COLLEGE, founded by
the Society of Friends in 1884, to give Quaker youths opportunity for
advanced educational training under the supervision of members of
their own faith. The charter was revised in 1911 to make the institu-
tion non-sectarian. The enrollment is limited to 250 men and 250
women, and a high scholastic standard is maintained.

Thirty-four buildings are scattered over this 237-acre campus,
which includes a large wooded tract and the beautiful rocky valley
through which Crum Creek flows. PARRISH HALL is the main college
building. The LIBRARY contains 90,000 volumes. The Friends' His-
torical Library, housed in a wing of the Library Building, contains
books on Quaker history, religion, and attempts at social reform, and
a special collection of manuscript records of Friends' Meetings. The
SPROUL ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATORY is well equipped for advanced
research.

The BIRTHPLACE OF BENJAMIN WEST (1738-1820), Quaker portrait
painter (see above), is on the campus. The distinctive feature of the
simple gray stone structure is the "Germantown hood," a shingle-
covered cornice projecting from the walls between the first and
second story. The purpose of the hood is to protect the lower walls
from driving rain. West studied abroad and was one of the first
American artists to receive European recognition; one of his pictures,
Perm's Treaty with the Indians, is in Independence Hall in Philadelphia.

The highway at this point descends, passing a factory (L) and, at
41.7 m., crossing the DELAWARE COUNTY MEMORIAL BRIDGE, which
honors local veterans of the World War, over Crum Creek (cor. of
Swed. cromkill or crumkill, crooked creek). The Indian name for the
stream was Okehocking, for a tribe of that name. A number of mills

142 U. S. ONE

were early established along its course. Valuable mineral deposits
and quarries fringe its banks; feldspar and Wissahickon gneiss are
found.

PINE RIDGE, 42.2 m. (160 alt., 40 pop.), is one of the newer
suburban communities. Its attractive frame and brick houses are
scattered over a hill heavily grown with pine trees, which conceal
them from view.

At 43 m. is the junction with State 252 (Providence Road).

1. Left on this road to Yale Ave., 1.8 m.; L. here to LAPIDEA MANOR, 2 m.
(R). This fine old residence was the home of the late Gov. William Cameron
Sproul. The grounds extend northward half a mile to Crum Creek and constitute
part of the extensive tract at one time owned by Thomas Leiper. Leiper's home,
STRATHAVEN, built here in 1785, is now occupied by his descendants. Leiper is
generally credited with having constructed the State's first railway, which was
horse-drawn. He built the rail road in 1 805 to haul stone from his quarries to the
banks of Crum Creek. The tracks were of white oak, the wheels of iron. Leiper's
son later built a canal along Crum Creek and abandoned the rail road.

2. Right on State 252 to ROSE TREE HUNT CLUB, 1.6 m., one of the oldest
hunt clubs in the country. The club owns more than 100 acres and has hunting
privileges on more than 8,000 acres. Its meets, held semi-annually, in the spring
and during Thanksgiving week, attract thousands from all over the East.

At 43.4 m. is a junction with Winchester Road.

Left on this paved highway at 1.3 m. to the HEDGEROW THEATER, one of
America's first summer playhouses. It is housed in a 125-year-old mill. A group of
actors who took over the building in the early 1890's and produced a series of
plays, became a self-sustaining permanent repertory company. This group be-
came known throughout the United States as a result of the fine work of Jasper
Deeter, the director, a former Harrisburg newspaperman. He took over the direc-
tion with a company of six actors and actresses in April 1 923.

Misfortune dogged the company's footsteps in many of its early ventures.
Much credit for its continued existence belonged to Harriet Moore, the 83-year-
old cook, who was adept at holding off bill collectors. Financial difficulties con-
tinued to distract the group until Ferd Nofer took over the business management.
There are now 22 members of the Hedgerow Company living in the community.
They cultivate a truck garden and raise sheep, thus obtaining vegetables and wool
for their own needs. A printing press has been added to the permanent equip-
ment. Members construct all the stage property.

The theater seats 168 persons, and frequently plays to a house of 220. Perform-
ances are now given the year around. In the winter of 1934-35 a troupe of 17
made a profitable tour of the South and Southwest. Ann Harding, stage and
motion picture star, was one of the members of this colony. Among other prom-
inent figures of the screen and legitimate stage who started their careers at
Hedgerow are: Dorothy Peterson and John Beal of the movies, Max Morris
Carnovsky of the Group Theater, Allyn Joslyn, and Harry Believer.

PENNSYLVANIA 143

MEDIA, 43.5 m. (160 alt., 40 pop.), is the center of the Rose Tree
Valley section and seat of Delaware County. It was so named because
of its central position in the county. The majority of Media's homes
were built during the post-Civil War period. Strongly constructed
and set back from the streets on shady lawns, they present a gloomy
appearance.

When Media was founded in 1683 by members of the Society of
Friends, a controversy arose over the liquor question. The problem
was settled by a clause in the charter, making it unlawful "for any
person or persons to vend or sell vinous, spirituous, or other intoxicat-
ing liquors within the limits of the said borough, except for medical
purposes or for use in the arts." Media thus became the first Pennsyl-
vania town for which direct legislation forbidding the sale of spirituous
liquor was enacted. The Pennsylvania Liquor Law, enacted following
repeal of the prohibition amendment to the United States Constitu-
tion, abrogated the former act of the legislature, and the sale of liquor
in Media is now legal.

At 44.1 m. the highway crosses Ridley Creek, whose banks are a
favorite haunt of hikers, picnickers, and vacationists. In the early
days of colonization it was the home of a wandering tribe of Indians
known as the Okehocking.

This section of the State was settled by Quakers and Scotch-Irish
Presbyterians; the latter erected the first church, probably about
1720.

The highway ascends a steep hill and winds through a stand of
fine hardwood trees. The PENNSYLVANIA TRAINING SCHOOL, known
locally as the Elwyn School for Feeble-Minded Children, is at
44.8 m. (L).

At 45.3 m. (R), on a wooded slope, stands the BLACK HORSE INN,
opened in 1739; it is built of stone, with low doorways. Once an im-
portant stop on the Baltimore-Philadelphia stage route, it is now a
station of the Pennsylvania Highway Patrol.

The highway leads downhill and crosses a branch of Chrome Run.
The COMBS CONSERVATORY OF Music is (R) at 45.6 m. and a LIME-
STONE QUARRY (R) at 45.7 m. The road crosses Chrome Run at
45.8 m., after which it climbs uphill past wooded picnic grounds
(R). At 46.1 m. (R) is a fine vista down Dismal Run Glen. The road
passes over a steep knob and to the L. is an excellent view of the
Chester Creek Valley. At 46.9 m. are the WAWA DAIRY FARMS,

u - S. ONE

typical of the many fine modern dairy establishments in the county.
The road then makes an S-curve downgrade through a wooded glen.

At 47.6 m. the highway crosses Chester Creek, the second largest
creek in Delaware County. The Swedes, who settled near its mouth
at Upland, named it Upland Kill. Both branches of the stream fur-
nish water power for numerous small mills. The creek was once
navigable by large boats for a distance of two miles, but today is
much diminished in size because several communities, particularly
West Chester, take from it their water supply.

Old homes, some built more than 200 years ago, are along the
creek and highway. These are in marked contrast with the fine mod-
ern estates a few hundred yards farther on, after the highway makes
an S-curve upgrade. At 48 m. is a glen (R), affording a view over the
Chester Creek Valley. Conifers and hardwood trees, planted in a
reforestation program, line the road here.

IVY MILLS, 48.8 m. (330 alt., 65 pop.), was named for the IVY
PAPER MILL, erected in 1729 by Thomas Willcox. Hand methods
were used in this mill long after machines were being employed else-
where in paper mills. The village consists of a few houses. There are
several large orchards in the vicinity.

At 49 m. is a fine view across the northern part of Aston Township.
At 49.1 m. the route passes (R) the PYLE BLACKSMITH SHOP, re-
minder of the days when the great stage route connected the States
of the Atlantic seaboard.

MARKHAM, 50.1 m. (240 alt., 134 pop.), former site of the Con-
cord flour mills, was once an important milling, shipping, and post
office center for the surrounding rural area. Its long street lined with
frame houses follows the course of a sycamore-shaded stream.

US 1 ascends a steep hill, at its summit passing the DANTE ORPHAN-
AGE OF THE SONS OF ITALY (L).

CONCORD VILLE, 51.1 m. (240 alt., 134 pop.), a village with
old stone houses, lies deep in a wood on a high ridge. The CONCORD
MEETING HOUSE, in a group of old trees, dominates the scene; its
outmoded carriage shed still stands. Overlooking Brandy wine Val-
ley, the meeting house commands one of the finest views in Delaware
County. The meeting was established prior to 1686. The land for the
meeting house, which was built in 1694, was leased to the trustees by
John Mendenhall for "one pepper corn yearly forever." The British
used the building as a base hospital after the Battle of Brandywine.

PENNSYLVANIA 145

The village took its name from Concord Township, largest in the
county. Established in 1683, this township was named by the Quaker
settlers in token of the harmonious relations existing among them.
The feeling of concord was not, however, extended to their Indian
neighbors, for in 1685 they petitioned the Penn government against
the Indians "for ye Rapine and Destructions of Hoggs."

South of the crossroad the road descends through rugged, rolling
country, Brandy wine Summit and other ridges rising L. After cross-
ing a branch of Harvey Run, the road follows a ravine worn by the
stream. The BRAND YWINE BAPTIST CHURCH (see illustration), built in
1715 and remodeled in 1770, is (R) at 53.8 m. It was the third Bap-
tist church erected in the State. The churchyard contains a number
of old tombstones, including some marking graves of Revolutionary
soldiers.

CHADD'S FORD, 54.9 m. (168 alt., 200 pop.), scene of the Bat-
tle of Brandywine, lies at the bottom of a gentle slope on the eastern
bank of the sparkling creek. The present-day stream carries but a
small volume of water, but in the days of early settlement floods and
ice made the ford so hazardous that it became necessary to provide
ferry service. The service, begun in 1737, was abandoned after a
bridge was built.

The Continentals suffered a major defeat here on September 11,
1777, when Washington, in an effort to prevent the British from
reaching Philadelphia, hurled his army of about 12,000 men at a
force of 18,000 British and Hessian soldiers under General Howe, who
was marching N. from Wilmington. Maneuvering by both sides for
possession of the bridge over Brandywine Creek resulted in a military
chess game lasting many hours. Finally, late in the afternoon, the
British gained the bridge by crossing the creek above it and executing
a flank attack on the American forces. The victors moved on to
Philadelphia, while Washington and his troops sought refuge NW.
of the city. This battle, nevertheless, taught Howe to respect his foes.
Lafayette, attempting to rally the harassed center, late in the battle
was severely wounded in the leg.

Right are battle memorials, among them a beautiful MARBLE
ARCH. Beyond them are farmhouses that were used as headquarters
during the day's struggle.

Brandywine Creek forms part of the eastern boundary of Chester
County, one of the three original counties laid out by Penn in 1 682.

146 U. S. ONE

The county was named for Chester, England, home of Robert Pear-
son, close friend of Penn. Comfortable stone and brick homesteads
with the usual big, gray barns, dot this rich agricultural district.

Originally, the Great Valley, or the Chester Valley as it is some-
times called, was shared by English and Welsh Friends; the latter
had settled to the E. in Tredyffrin and Westtown Townships. Ger-
man settlers came later into the northern section, and the south-
western section was colonized by Scotch-Irish Presbyterians.

CHADD'S FORD JUNCTION, 55.3 m. (168 alt., 60 pop.), con-
sists of a few old houses and deserted mills.

South of Chadd's Ford the highway curves L. and parallels Ring
Run, picturesque tributary of the Brandywine.

Kennett Township, through which US 1 passes, was the scene of
Bayard Taylor's Story of Kennett, a tale of the Revolution based on
historic incidents of the region. One of the old buildings in the town-
ship is the MEETING HOUSE (R) at 58.1 m., built in 1707. This stone
structure commands a fine view of the valley and the distant hills (L).
The old carriage sheds and the grove of trees, typical of most Friends'
meeting houses, are present.

US 1 runs through East Marlboro Township, which also served as
the locale of Bayard Taylor's novels. Prior to and during the Civil
War, East Marlboro was a hotbed of abolition sentiment. Many of
the Quaker homesteads were utilized as stations of the "underground
railroad," by which fugitive slaves were protected and aided in their
flight northward.

At 59.1 m. is the ANVIL TAVERN (R), around which General
Knyphausen's Hessian division bivouacked the day before the Battle
of Brandywine.

At 59.2 m. (R) is the gateway to LONGWOOD GARDENS (open week-
days and first Sun. of month; 11 a.m.- 5 p.m.; free except Sat. and Sun., when
fee is 25f), a 1,000-acre estate, most of which is devoted to the growing
of farm produce. A nine-hole golf course covers 50 acres, and the re-
mainder is given over to flower gardens, lawns, ponds, and woods.

The land, now owned by Pierre S. DuPont, was conveyed to
George Pierce by William Penn in 1701. Two grandsons of George
Pierce assembled the trees and plants for the first gardens, even carry-
ing specimens of cypresses all the way from the Dismal Swamp in
Virginia to Longwood in their saddlebags. Once known as Pierce's
Park, the estate received its present name shortly before the Civil

PENNSYLVANIA 147

War. It was then known as Long Woods and was used as an "under-
ground station" by Wilmington, Kennett Square, and Hamorton
Friends.

Near the entrance is a group of FOUNTAINS that play promptly at
two o'clock each day in good weather. Beyond them are a lake, a
circular CLOGKTOWER (R) with a fine set of chimes, and a rocky
eminence (L).

The CONSERVATORY (L) covers an area of 107,825 sq. ft. In it,
among other plants are vines that produce peaches, azaleas from
Belgium, chrysanthemums from the Orient, and exceptional speci-
mens of orchids and acacias. On the first Sunday in each month, an
organ recital is given in this building.

Beyond the conservatory is the OPEN AIR THEATER. A vine-covered
stone wall is the backdrop; neatly trimmed boxwoods form the wings,
and water spouted from fountains and colored by light is used for a
curtain. Pine and hemlock trees clothe a ridge that looms behind the
stage. The seating capacity is 2,200.

Further on (L) is a natural lake. Left of this lake is a formal WATER
GARDEN, copied from the one in the gardens of the Villa Gamberaia,
near Florence, Italy. The garden contains six pools, each centered
with a fountain, in a rectangular plot of close-cropped lawn, bordered
by rows of smaller fountains along the longer sides of the rectangle,
interspersed with boxwood, and with a backdrop of trees. The four
larger pools are rectangular, cut out on the inner corners to follow
the curve of a circular fountain in the center. The sixth pool lies at
the end of the garden opposite an observation platform, which stands
in the position occupied by the villa in the original garden in Italy.

At 59.3 m. is LONGWOOD VILLAGE. The old LONGWOOD
MEETING HOUSE (R) was the scene of many anti-slavery speeches. A
cylindrical stone monument in the burial ground marks the GRAVE
OF BAYARD TAYLOR (1825-75), who died in Berlin (see below).

The road runs through a mushroom-producing area, with many
nurseries visible from the highway. This industry is quite profitable.

KENNETT SQUARE, 62.1 m. (380 alt., 3,091 pop.), founded in
1705 on a ridge and named for a village in Wiltshire, England, is a
town of red brick and stone houses standing along narrow winding
streets.

The SITE OF THE BIRTHPLACE OF BAYARD TAYLOR, novelist, jour-
nalist, poet, and diplomat, is at Station and Union Sts. Taylor was

148 U. S. ONE

one of the first of America's adventurous but penniless youths to seek
knowledge and experience in the old cities of Europe. His Views Afoot
or Europe Seen with a Knapsack and Staff was a best-seller in 1846. At the
age of 21 he was publishing a newspaper in Phoenixville, and in 1847
he became a member of the staff of the New York Tribune. He was one
of the first white men to penetrate Africa, and he accompanied Perry
to Japan. He died soon after he became American Minister to
Germany.

The BAYARD TAYLOR MEMORIAL LIBRARY, S. Broad St., contains
first editions of his books, and some of his paintings and drawings.

South of Kennett Square US 1 dips down through excellent farm-
ing country. Fine Colonial farmhouses dot the landscape at close
intervals. At 63.5 m. (R) lies the GREEN BANK FARM, an outstanding
example of an old farm that has been modernized without destroying
its original charm.

TOUGHKENAMON, 64.6 m. (320 alt., 450 pop.), is named for
Toughkenamon Ridge (R), N. of the hamlet. The Indians called
this elevation Doch-can-a-mon ( firebrand hill) .

In addition to mushroom nurseries, there are numerous green-
houses devoted to the cultivation of roses and carnations in this area.
Most of the buildings along the route are of brick or stone inter-
spersed with occasional white and yellow frame dwellings built in the
style common to the late 19th century.

AVONDALE, 66.5 m. (272 alt., 763 pop.), is a busy marketing
center for mushroom growers, with banks, stores, and low office
buildings jammed together in the center of the town. Most of the
brick buildings are gleaming red, the result of several coats of paint.
The highway twists and turns in the village to avoid a maze of creeks
and railroad tracks.

The highway describes several sharp curves while climbing a
wooded slope. Old brownstone homesteads, many built by the first
settlers, are scattered along the highway.

The AVONGROVE CONSOLIDATED SCHOOL is (R) at 67.8 m. S. of
this point the road bears L. to traverse a charming countryside. At
68.1 m. (R) are nurseries, among the leading producers of roses and
carnations for eastern city markets. Several hundred square feet of
glass cover extensive plantings, and beds of red, white, and yellow
roses are close to the road, a delightful roadside decoration. Signs
invite passersby to visit the gardens.

PENNSYLVANIA 149

Still in the mushroom and flower-growing area is WEST GROVE,
68.1 m. (320 alt., 1,375 pop.), long the scene of annual Methodist
camp meetings. The town is clean and modern. Long rows of brick
houses with porches flank the street.

JENNERSVILLE, 71.5 m. (578 alt., 250 pop.), a rural hamlet,
was named for Dr. Edward Jenner, who introduced and developed
vaccination. Dr. Josiah Ankrim, a resident, chose the name because
of his admiration for the English physician.

At 74.6 m. (L) is the LINCOLN UNIVERSITY CAMPUS extending over
450 acres. A stone archway stands at the entrance. This institution is
maintained by the Presbyterian Church for the education of young
Negro men and women. It was founded in 1854 as Ashmun Institute,
and in 1866 received its present name in memory of the "Great
Emancipator." It has preparatory, college, and theological courses.
Brick dormitories, a chapel, and the administration building with
classrooms and laboratories compose the university group. The en-
rollment is 450.

At 76 m. red soil begins to supplant the limestone. The road crosses
a more rugged country, dipping and rising with the slopes and bridg-
ing several small streams.

OXFORD, 78.1 m. (535 alt., 2,606 pop.), is a bustling distributing
center, with well-kept streets and houses. It was named for the college
town in England. Great quantities of milk are shipped daily from this
point to the Philadelphia market.

At 78.4 m. the pike passes the OXFORD FRIENDS' MEETING
HOUSE (R), constructed of brick in 1879 and standing among trees.
Left at this point is a fringe of mills and sheds, paralleling a
railroad.

Jack pines, scrub oaks, and other stunted growths appear in
greater numbers as the highway nears the Maryland State Line.

At 81.5 m. (L) is NOTTINGHAM (500 alt., 30 pop.), in which is
the SITE OF THE NOTTINGHAM FRIENDS' MEETING HOUSE (c. 1719).
The PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH (R) was built in 1802. The houses are
of stone and well built.

The highway now traverses West Nottingham Township, laid out
in 1702 as part of the "Nottingham Lots," consisting of a tract of
1 8,000 acres. The area was supposed to be in Pennsylvania, but the
Mason-Dixon Line placed the larger part of it in Maryland. Two
manors of 5,000 acres each, which had been set aside for Letitia

1 50 U. S. ONE

Aubrey, Perm's daughter, and for William Perm, Jr., were in the
northwestern part of the area.

SYLMAR, 83.2 m., is a border hamlet with a name made by
combining syllables from the words Pennsylvania and Maryland.

At 83.5 m. is the Pennsylvania-Maryland State Line. This, the
MASON-DIXON LINE, was surveyed and marked by Charles Mason
and Jeremiah Dixon, English astronomers, in 1763-67. These men had
been commissioned by the Penns and the Calverts to determine the
boundary in order to settle disputes among claimants of land under
various grants dating back to 1682. George Calvert, Lord Baltimore,
founder of Maryland, under his grant claimed a part of Pennsylvania
that would have included the site of Philadelphia as far N. as the
Holmesburg section. This dispute was adjusted in 1738 and a boun-
dary line was established 1 5 miles below Philadelphia . Later the present
line was run, Mason and Dixon placing stone markers at 5 -mile inter-
vals along a stretch of 132 miles. On the side facing Pennsylvania the
letter P and the arms of the Penn family were carved; on the Mary-
land side, the letter M and the crest of the Gal verts. The Mason-
Dixon Line was generally accepted as the dividing line between the
free and the slave States the North and the South.

MARYLAND

Pa. Line Rising Sun Bel Air Baltimore Washington,
B.C., 89 m. US 1.

Baltimore & Ohio R.R. roughly parallels the route between Baltimore and
Washington; Greyhound, Pan- American, and Safeway-Trailways busses follow
the route throughout.

Well-paved roadbed throughout; some steep grades and sharp curves; traffic
heavy, particularly between Baltimore and Washington. Tourist homes and
tourist camps along route; hotels in cities.

Section 13. Pennsylvania Line to Baltimore, 49.8 m.

US 1 is one of two main routes between Philadelphia and Balti-
more. The other, US 13-40 (see MD. GUIDE), is less scenic and has
heavier truck traffic, though somewhat greater historic interest.

US 1 traverses rolling country, skirting streams in deep valleys,
wending along high tablelands, and overlooking fertile and well-
cultivated fields. Dairying is a means of livelihood.

The highway crosses the Maryland Line at the village of SYLMAR,
m. (470 alt., 37 pop.).

At 1.9 m. (R) is a marker inscribed NOTTINGHAM LOTS (see Section
12).

RISING SUN, 2.8 m. (387 alt., 565 pop.), is an important bank-
ing and trading center for the area, making considerable sales of farm
supplies and building materials. A large and well-equipped plant
here handles and ships milk.

The community, which is on the brow of a hill, was founded by
Henry Reynolds and known as Summer Hill until 1816, when the
present name was adopted. This name was taken from that of an old
tavern whose sign bore a picture of a sun on the horizon. This old
hostelry stood on the spot now occupied by the bank; the present
RISING SUN HOTEL, formerly the Maryland House, is on the opposite
corner. The original structure on this site was the Odd Fellows' Hall,
which was burned, rebuilt on a larger scale, and subsequently turned
into a tavern.

In Rising Sun, at 3.4 m. ? is the junction with a paved road.

Left on this road to the junction with another road at 1.5 m.; R. here and L.
at 2.2 m. to WEST NOTTINGHAM ACADEMY, 2.6 m., the oldest surviving Presby-
terian educational institution in the New World. At the entrance to the academy

i 5 2 U. S. ONE

grounds (L) stands the WEST NOTTINGHAM PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, a large stone
building set in a beautiful grove of trees. Among the early settlers in the Notting-
ham section were many Scotch-Irish Presbyterians; in 1724 they organized a
congregation known as Lower Octoraro, under the presbytery of New Castle.
The site of the earliest meeting house is uncertain; four or five years later a new
meeting house was erected on a site of the old cemetery near the high school
campus in the present village of Rising Sun. The congregation then became
known as the Nottingham. The Whitefield revival caused a split in 1741, and the
New Light faction built a meeting house of its own near the older place of wor-
ship.

The Reverend Samuel Finley (1715-66), a native of Ireland who was ordained
in America in 1744 and took active part as a revivalist in the Great Awakening
in Pennsylvania, was a pastor of the new congregation from 1744 to 1761, when
he became president of Princeton College. The two congregations were reunited
in 1784 and the present church was completed in 1804.

The date of the founding of the academy is usually given as 1741 but it was
probably opened after Finley became the pastor. Under the capable direction of
Finley it gained high prestige, drawing students from long distances. After Fin-
ley's departure from the academy and especially later in the troublous times of
the Revolution and the period following, the school lost ground and by the end
of the century had suspended operation.

In 1812, however, a charter and an annual grant of $800 (later reduced to
$500) were obtained from the legislature and the school was revived, the leader
and headmaster for many years being the Reverend James Magraw, pastor of
the West Nottingham Church. The practice of having the local pastor serve as
headmaster was followed for the greater part of the century. For many years
most of the pupils of the revived school came from the neighborhood; those from
outside the neighborhood were boarded in private homes. In 1906, to accommo-
date the boarders and with a view to expansion, the Magraw homestead was
acquired. To gain additional support for the old Presbyterian school it was placed
under control of the synod of Baltimore.

The academy is situated on a beautiful 340-acre tract of rolling land. At the
entrance, opposite the church, is the ADMINISTRATION BUILDING, a former resi-
dence. The entrance road swings R. ; on the far side of the turn is a MEMORIAL
ARCH commemorating two signers of the Declaration of Independence who
were former students at the school. A path runs under this arch to what is called
the OLD ACADEMY, erected in 1865 to replace what is believed to have been the
third academy building. Farther back on the grounds is MAGRAW HALL, a large
stone building erected a few years ago after the burning of the old Magraw house.
This is the main dormitory and school building. The school has dormitory facili-
ties for 52 boys, and an enrollment of 70 to 80, including day students.

RICHARD'S OAK, 6.1 m. (R), close to the road, is sometimes called
the Lafayette Oak. A tablet on the tree says that it has a circumfer- 4
ence of 21 ft. 8 in., a height of 70 ft., and a spread of 105 ft., and
that it is thought to be over 500 years old. Lafayette and the 1,200
New England soldiers he was leading to Virginia to operate against

MARYLAND 153

Benedict Arnold are said to have cirnped near the tree on April 12,
1781.

The road now descends to OCTORARO CREEK (Ind., rushing waters),
6.8 111., crossing on a new bridge. The old road swings a little to the
L., crossing on the old Porter's Bridge. Formerly a number of grist
and paper mills lined the banks of this stream, which has always been
good for bass fishing.

At 7.2 m. (R) is the junction with a paved road, the former Cono-
wingo Road, the main route prior to the building of the new road
over the Conowingo Dam.

At 8.9 m. is the junction with US 222 (R) and with an unnumbered
road (L).

1. Right on US 222 at 0.2 m. (L) is the entrance to the estate, SUCCESS (open),
with a shabby house reputed to date from about 1734 occupying an elevated site.
The one-and-a-half-story main structure, which was apparently built in two
parts, has a gambrel roof and dormer windows, and was constructed of squared
logs, now covered by weather-boarding. About 1849 the original log kitchen was
replaced by one of stone that contains the great fireplace of the former structure;
this fireplace has a crane for hanging pots and takes logs eight ft. long, which,
it is said, were in former times hauled by a horse. In the main house is what is
known as the Betsy Ross room; local tradition has it that this Philadelphia up-
holsterer was a frequent visitor, and that she conceived the idea of the five-pointed
star for the flag she was asked to make, from this five-cornered room. The room is
not star-shaped, however, but five-walled, the fifth wall being a chimney that
cuts across one corner of the square room.

2. Left from the junction of US 1 on the unnumbered paved road is the en-
trance lane, 0.4 m. (L), to OCTORARA. This beautiful estate is the residence of
Mr. and Mrs. Jotham Johnson (open upon written request addressed to Rowlandsville,
Md.). The house, approached by a tree-bordered lane about a quarter of a mile
long, stands on a beautiful, tree-covered lawn and amid landscaped gardens; a
double row of boxwood 200 ft. long ends in a circle. The house commands a fine
view with glimpses of Conowingo Lake and the river. The tract, originally part
of the estates of the Hall family of Mount Welcome (see below), was also known as
Mount Independence. The house, said to have been built in the late 17th century,
was originally a small stone structure; it is the center of the present building.
In time a frame wing was added. In 1807 the place was bought by Henry White
Physick of Philadelphia, who built the stone kitchen wing and the stone barn.
His brother, Dr. Philip Syng Physick, who acquired the place in 1823, tore down
the frame part, which was in bad condition, and in 1824 built the present large
brick wing, which is now the main house. The front piazza was subsequently
added.

Continuing S., the road shortly descends to Octoraro Creek, 1.3 m., the last
part of the way on a steep grade, with a sign warning: "Descend in second gear"
The scenery here is arresting, the stream rushing in a deep gorge, on the far side

i 5 4 U. S. ONE

of which is the village of ROWLANDSVILLE (170 pop.). The paved road ends
at the foot of the hill, but a crushed-stone road continues along the stream, pass-
ing the bridge to the village, and twice crossing railroad tracks; at 2.2 m. the
route meets US 222 (see below).

At 9.1 m. (R) on US 1 is an old house known as MOUNT WELCOME
(open). The tract Mount Welcome, originally 1,000 acres, was one of
the earliest grants in this section, and was for many years in the pos-
session of the Hall family, who played a prominent part in the history
of Cecil County. The original house, of which a few ruins remain,
stood nearer the river.

The main part of the present two-and-a-half-story house is of
brick, now covered with plaster, and the gable roof contains a central
dormer window. The second-story floorboards are a foot wide and
the doors, some of them only three-fourths of an inch thick, hang
true. Behind the main structure is a smaller one of stone containing
the ancient fireplace with its pot-cranes.

At 9.4 m. is the present village of CONOWINGO (Ind., at the
falls), principally made up of rilling stations and roadside restaurants.
The road now descends to the Conowingo Dam. At the east end of
the dam, 9.9 m.j is the junction with US 222.

Left on US 222, which descends immediately and runs almost at river level,
though for the first two or three miles at some distance from the stream. At 0.8 m.
is the junction with the Rowlandsville road (see above).

A marker at 0.9 m. indicates the SITE OF A SUSQUEHANNOCK INDIAN FORT
that in 1682 was involved in the Maryland- Pennsylvania boundary controversy.
An Indian fort had been named during the negotiations as being on the 40th
parallel of latitude; the fort in question was several miles up the river. George
Talbot, grantee of Susquehanna Manor, by mistake drew his line from this
lower fort.

At 2.2 m. (L) are a few houses and a sign reading "Sportsmen's Haven," and
at 3.5 m. (L) is a large old stone building with a sign offering accommodations to
fishermen. The road here runs fairly close to the river. On an island reached from
this point is a fishermen's club. In the spring fishing is good for rock and wall-eyed
pike, and in the fall for bass. Between the first rapids in the river and the Cono-
wingo Dam, trolling is popular; below the rapids rod fishing prevails. The bed
of the old canal, which can be discerned along much of the way, here is distinctly
visible (R). A short distance beyond and now used as a baseball field is the bed
of an old mill pond, into which logs floating down the canal were turned off to a
nearby sawmill.

At 3.7 m. (R) are the RUINS OF AN OLD STONE MILL that stood by the canal.
The river here comes into full view. Nearby is another inn catering to fishermen.

At 4 m. is a marker indicating SMITH'S FALLS, or, as it was marked on Gapt.
John Smith's map, "Smyth's Fales." In 1608 Captain Smith ascended the river

MARYLAND 155

to this point, marking it on the map he made with a cross that he explained
meant "to the crosses hath bin discovered what beyond is by relation." The PORT
DEPOSIT QUARRIES (L) have been operated since 1808. They cut into the face of
the cliff and extend to a height of 150 to 200 ft. The stone, called Everlasting
Granite, has been used in many buildings in this region, notably in Mount Royal
Station in Baltimore.

At 4.6 m. the road passes under the railroad viaduct and reaches the north
end of PORT DEPOSIT (20 alt., 963 pop.). Here the river is flanked by steep
cliffs that for the most part rise almost sheer to heights of over 200 ft., broken at
only three places, called "hollows." (Boats and guides are available.) Main Street,
a mile long, lies between the railroad tracks and the cliffs. A few houses are in the
hollows on the cliffside. The town is for the most part not attractive, though some
of the old buildings are of interest. In 1729 Thomas Cresap was operating a ferry
near here, known as the Upper Ferry, to distinguish it from the Lower Ferry
near the mouth of the river, which had been established in 1695. Since the Upper
Ferry was at the head of navigation, residents of the vicinity petitioned for a road
on which tobacco casks could be rolled and other produce brought to the landing
and to the nearby "merchants' mill." The road was made, and also one running
toward Philadelphia. At the time the Maryland Canal was completed in 1810
the place was known as Creswell's Ferry, for Col. John Creswell, the ferry owner.
The canal brought such a boom that the town was laid out in 1812; in the follow-
ing year it received its present name because of the fact that it served as a storage
place for goods to be shipped by water. In May 1813 the settlement still had no
great importance and the British, entering the Susquehanna, did not bother to
attack it.

Unsuccessful efforts to build a bridge across the river were made in 1808 and
1813, but in 1819 a mile-long bridge, consisting of several spans that extended
from island to island, was completed. This was burned in 1823, the fire being
caused, it is said, by friction from the iron runners of a sleigh passing rapidly
over it. The bridge was rebuilt a few years later and served until 1 854, when one
of the spans broke under the weight of a drove of cattle; it was not rebuilt and
ferry service was resumed and continued by county subsidy until a few years ago.
The arks and rafts operating on the Maryland Canal brought increasing trade
to the town; in 1822, $1,337,925 worth of goods, mainly lumber but including
large quantities of wheat, flour, whiskey, and iron, were handled- by
the little port. The development of railroads and other factors gradually lessened
this trade.

At 5.2 m. (L), next to the Roman Catholic Church, is a long double house
with a first story half brick and half stone, and two frame upper stories; this is
an old INN, dating from the early days. Farther on (R) is a house with a porch
enclosed by beautiful ORNAMENTAL IRONWORK. At the northeast corner of Main
St. and Woodlawn Road is the ANGLERS' INN, occupying a stone house a century
old. A few doors below the southeast corner of the junction is a STONE HOUSE,
reputed to be one of the oldest in the town, with iron railings on the second- and
third-story porches.

On Main Street is a large brick building, the day school of the JACOB TOME
INSTITUTE. On the opposite side of the street is the TOME MANSION, formerly the
residence of Jacob Tome, the institute's founder, who was born in Pennsylvania

156 U. S. ONE

in 1810 of German Lutheran parents. In the spring of 1833, practically
penniless, he arrived at Port Deposit on a raft. In time he made a fortune in the
lumber business, which was then booming at Port Deposit. His subsequent busi-
ness interests were varied. During the Civil War Tome served as a member of the
finance committee of the Maryland Senate, and was an adviser to President
Lincoln.

Left on the Woodlawn Road at 0.7 m. is (L) the dirt lane leading to ANCHOR
AND HOPE FARM (open), originally consisting of two old tracts, Anchor and Hope
and Raycroft's Choice. The house is reputed to be over 200 years old a long
stone structure, substantially but rather crudely built. It was the first inn in this
area, and was called the Ferry House. The living room, the former taproom of the
inn, contains two stone fireplaces, one at each end, and in a corner a cubicle with
a sliding panel the ticket office, where ferry and stagecoach tickets were sold.

Along the SUSQUEHANNA RIVER, on which is CONOWINGO DAM
(power station open daily 9 a.m. -4 p.m.), are high ridges with steep
wooded bluffs bordering a flat river valley that is a mile wide; the
river in low water flows over a shallow rocky bed, and in flood swells
broadly and rushes with great force. Conowingo Lake, extending
14.5 miles up the river, has lessened the ruggedness of the banks, but
on the whole has greatly enhanced the scenic beauty. Downstream
from the dam the river retains its natural aspect.

US 1 crosses the Susquehanna River on the crest of the dam,
which is provided with spillways under the roadbed. Before the build-
ing of the dam in 1928, the highway crossed on the old Conowingo
Bridge, two miles N. The Conowingo power plant was built by the
Philadelphia Electric Co., and completed in 1928. It has seven units
of 54,000 horsepower each, with provision for ultimate installation
of four additional units. The transmission lines carry the current at
220,000 volts, delivering at Philadelphia each year many million
kilowatt hours. The dam is 4,648 ft. long and is based on solid rock
at a depth of 96.5 ft. The turbines are spaced along the dam, the
large power station being at the western end.

From the bed of the river, the height of which has been raised by
the dam, were removed rocks bearing inscriptions that are attributed
to a lost race of higher culture than that of the Indians of the period
when the white men arrived in America. The rocks are now in the
collection of the Maryland Academy of Sciences in Baltimore (see
MD. GUIDE).

The former centers of the shad fishing for which Chesapeake Bay
is famous were the upper waters of the bay and the Susquehanna
River. Herring, also, were plentiful. The shad formerly had a free

MARYLAND 157

run to their spawning grounds up the river, but now the power dams
block the way. This situation is being overcome to some extent by
artificial propagation and stocking. Conowingo Lake is also stocked
with large-mouth bass and blue-gill sunfish.

The Susquehanna River, though one of the long rivers in eastern
United States, winding 420 miles, has rapids and shoals in its lower
course, so that it is navigable for only about five miles from its mouth
in Chesapeake Bay. In the past, however, during the spring freshets,
log rafts and flat-bottomed arks were floated down stream, though
such trips were always hazardous. Navigation was greatly helped by
the completion in 1797 of a canal a mile long, around the Conewago
Falls above Wrightsville. The movement of products down the river
attained a large volume, reaching a peak in the second quarter of the
19th century, when as many as 2,000 to 3,000 rafts made the trip
each season.

This method of shipment, of course, did not serve well for more
perishable products. The city of Baltimore early took an interest in
the improvement of navigation on the Susquehanna as a means of
developing the trade of the great region tapped by that river. In
1783 a group of leading citizens incorporated themselves as the
Proprietors of the Susquehanna Canal, to promote this development.
They had ambitious dreams of a major waterway to extend as far as
Buffalo. The immediate project, along the east bank of the river from
the Maryland-Pennsylvania Line to the head of navigation near Rock
Run at the north end of the present town of Port Deposit, was com-
pleted in 1805; but the canal was too narrow and had to be widened
in 1810 or 1812. This canal, known as the Maryland or Susquehanna
Canal, was one of the earliest in the country. Although it brought
prosperity to Port Deposit, it was not a paying venture.

When the Susquehanna and Tidewater Canal was projected on
the west side of the river, the conflicting interests were settled by
acquisition of the Maryland Canal in 1837 through an exchange of
stock. The business of the Maryland Canal declined, especially after
the railroad paralleled it, and it finally ceased operation.

The building of the Union Canal to connect Philadelphia with the
Susquehanna, the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal project, and other
plans of eastern cities for securing the trade of the western territory
caused growing concern in Baltimore. In 1823 a survey was made
for a canal from the Conewago Falls along the western bank of the

158 U. S. ONE

Susquehanna to a point near Havre de Grace, thence across the low-
lands to Baltimore. This project was not carried out at the time,
but in 1835 the legislatures of Pennsylvania and of Maryland au-
thorized canals, respectively, from Wrightsville to the State Line and
from the State Line to Havre de Grace, subsequently united as the
Susquehanna and Tidewater Canal. Excavation started in 1836,
and the canal was completed in 1840. Owing to high prices in the
boom period of the 1830's, the total cost was $3,500,000, the third
greatest for an ante-bellum waterway. The canal was 45 miles
long, with a width of 50 ft., a depth of 5 to 6 ft., and locks 170 ft.
long and 17 ft. wide, permitting it in later years to accommodate
boats of 1 50 tons capacity. The enormous capitalization and indebt-
edness prevented its being profitable, but it enjoyed a large volume
of business over a period of years. A large part of the traffic went to
Baltimore, but for fully 20 years, from 1840 to 1860, more than one-
fourth of it consisted of trade with Philadelphia that passed through
the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal, owing to the fact that the
Union Canal was too small. After the 1860's railroad transportation
caused a rapid decline in the traffic on the Susquehanna and Tide-
water Canal, and in 1 870 the canal company leased the property for
999 years to the Philadelphia & Reading Railroad Co. Inadequate
maintenance resulted in a still further decline in business. In 1894 a
freshet greatly damaged the banks of the canal, which were never
repaired, and in 1895 the lock gates were permanently closed.

In 1866 a branch railroad from Perry ville to Port Deposit was
completed, following which the Columbia & Port Deposit R.R. was
built (1866-77).

At 10.8 m., the western end of the dam, the highway begins a
rapid ascent.

At 11.1 m. (R) is STATE POLICE SUBSTATION F, with a wide parking
space offering a fine view of Conowingo Lake.

At 12.5 m. is the junction with an unnumbered State road.

Left on this road; at 0.1 m. (R) is the old DEER CREEK FRIENDS' MEETING
HOUSE, a small stone building, rectangular in shape and of plain design. Behind
it is the burying ground. Over the doorway of the building is the inscription:
"Founded 1737. Rebuilt 1784. Restored by HughJ. Jewett in 1888." The origi-
nal meeting house of logs, established for a branch of the Bush River Meeting,
is supposed to have been in a grove on the opposite side of the road. After the
Hicksite movement split the Society of Friends, a group from the Deer Creek
Meeting in 1829 built a separate meeting house. Rebuilt in 1877, it is at the south

MARYLAND

end of Darlington. A few years ago the two groups reunited. During the
summer services are held regularly on Sunday mornings in the old meeting house.
DARLINGTON, 0.5 m. (324 alt., 500 pop.), is strung along the highway for a
mile. At 1 m. a dirt road (L) leads 200 yds. to the FRIENDS' MEETING HOUSE
(R), where services of the united meeting (see above) are held during the winter.
The State road continues S., passing several fine estates. This rural section,
including the broad Deer Creek Valley, is beautiful. At 2.3 m. the highway crosses
DEER CREEK. On the near side of the creek is (R) the ESTATE OF FRANCIS STOKES
(private) of Philadelphia. The stone building on the bank of the stream, just inside
the entrance, is WILSON'S MILL, believed to have been built in the 18th century; it
has not operated for many years, but the millrace is still running. A few hundred
feet back, near the stream, is the miller's house, also of stone, now occupied by
the overseer of the estate. The stone mansion, on an elevation (R) just beyond
the old mill, dates from shortly after the Civil War. The lovely garden along the
millrace is only occasionally open to the public; the estate, however, is visible
from the road.

At 13.1 m. (R) is the junction with a paved road marked by a
sign, "Hopkins Corner." This is the old Gonowingo Road, which
crossed the river about two miles above the Conowingo Dam. The
bridge site was submerged by the lake, and the road now comes to a
dead end at that point.

Right on the old Conowingo Road to BERKELEY, 0.9 m. (150 pop.); R. on
a side road (macadamized for short distance, then graveled) to a lane, 1.1 m.
(L). A marker, on the opposite side of the road but with an arrow pointing to the
lane, reads: "Lafayette at Col. Rigbie's House." Left on this lane, at the top of a
hill commanding a fine view, is COLONEL RIGBIE'S HOUSE (open), 1.4 m., where
Lafayette and his officers were entertained on April 13, 1781. At this point in the
march, rumblings of disaffection were heard among the troops, who were poorly
clad and without shelter, but Lafayette promptly arrested the ringleader, who
was convicted as a spy and executed, and the troops went on toward Virginia.

Col. Nathan Rigbie in 1708 acquired Phillips' Purchase, a tract of 2,000 acres
bordering the Susquehanna River. The present homestead comprises but 100
acres around the old house. Col. James Rigbie inherited it from his father, Col.
Nathan Rigbie, and lived here until his death in 1790. He was high sheriff of
Baltimore County, an important office at that tune, and was captain and later
colonel of a company of militia. The original one-story stone house, now to the
rear of the main house and partly covered by weatherboards, was built in 1732;
it still contains the great fireplace with its cranes and pothooks. The main house,
built of wood in 1750, is one and a half stories high, with dormer windows; it has
beautiful paneled walls and a staircase with low risers and carved walnut balusters
and handrail. The present owner has endeavored to preserve the Colonial
aspect of the house.

At 16.3 m. is the junction with two unnumbered roads.

1. Left from this point on the Churchville road, which runs S. through the
beautiful Deer Creek Valley with its fine estates; the valley is wide, sloping down

i6o U. S. ONE

gently from high ridges. At 2.7 m. the highway crosses Deer Creek. On a knoll
(R) beyond the stream is PRIEST NE ALE'S MASS HOUSE (open). The entrance lane
is at 2.9 m., and the house stands back about 250 yards from the highway. Deer
Creek Chapel had been established in this neighborhood by the Jesuits as early
as 1747. In 1764 Thomas Shea deeded the tract of land known as Paradise,
sometimes spelled Paradice, to Father Bennett Neale.

It is believed that the present structure was built by Father Neale, though it
may have been that a house already standing was remodeled by him for purposes
of worship. In order to conform to the law at that time, which banned Roman
Catholic churches, it was in the form of a dwelling, a hall being used as a chapel.
Although named St. Joseph's Chapel, it was known as Priest Neale's Mass House.
The original house, not of large size, is one-story, almost square, with thick stone
walls that have been plastered over. In the rear is a frame addition. The place
was sold by the Jesuits about 1 800, and thereafter used exclusively as a dwelling.
The old chapel hall is now divided into rooms.

2. Right from US 1 on the Whiteford road is DUBLIN, 1 m. (455 alt.), an
attractive crossroads village. The highway traverses tableland for the most part;
just before reaching Whiteford it descends from the ridge that flanks a broad
valley.

At 7.2 m. is the junction with State 165 in the village of WHITEFORD (536
alt., 268 pop.), which is strung for some distance along this highway. The area is
noted for its slate, particularly that from the Peach Bottom Quarry in Whiteford.
The deposits are in the adjacent ridge, which State 165 skirts. The quarries have
not been worked actively for the last decade or two, though the mining of deposits
beyond the Pennsylvania Line to the N. has recently been resumed. The former
quarry workers are now employed in a mill that grinds the stone for use as roofing
material.

a. Right from Whiteford 0.8 m. on State 165 is CARDIFF (398 pop.). White-
ford, Cardiff, and Delta across the Pennsylvania Line form practically a continu-
ous community along the highway.

Cardiff, settled about 1860 and called South Delta, was subsequently named
for Cardiff, Wales. This Welsh community retains to some extent the Welsh
customs and speech. The male inhabitants are almost all employed in the nearby
quarries and in the plant of the Cardiff Marble Co., established about 1917.
This section is famous for its verd-antique marble used for tiling throughout the
United States.

b. Left from Whiteford 2.2 m. on State 165 is PYLESVILLE (358 alt., 50
pop.). Near the village is an asbestos quarry, the only one in the country produc-
ing the type of asbestos needed for making acid filter paper. Maryland is one of
the half-dozen important producers of asbestos in the United States.

At 4.7 m. on the main side road is the junction with State 24; R. on a road
marked "Bush's Corner" 1.5 m. to ST. MARY'S ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH, where
an annual tilting tournament is held in August. Tournaments have long been
popular gatherings in the rural sections of the States S. of Pennsylvania; in most
other States they have nearly disappeared, or exist only as fashionable revivals.

CITY HALL, PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA

BRANDYWINE BAPTIST CHURCH, PENNSYLVANIA

MARYLAND 161

There are several places in Maryland where they have been continued without
artificial stimulation. For weeks before the event the countrymen practice riding
a course of traditional length, attempting to catch on their lances a series of small
rings suspended from arches; this feat requires considerable skill. Until about 1917
the contestants wore medieval costumes but at present they wear whatever they
choose. They are entered under titles they select the Black Knight, the Knight
of Hard Bargain, the Knight of Love's Adventure, and so on, the name usually
being taken from that of an estate or village where they live. The contest is
opened with a speech by the local politician or orator, who gives the charge to the
knights, reminding them that they are carrying on a traditional "defense of
Christianity and womanhood"; a band usually sounds a fanfare and the marshal
announces: "Knight of Hard Bargain, prepare to charge." The man named rides
his cavorting steed to the head of the course; the marshal continues: "Charge,
Sir Knight," and the rider, with lance set, dashes forward. The contestants are
eliminated by decreasing the size of the rings, the smallest ring in some cases being
little larger than a finger-ring. Each knight has a lady of his choice, the winner
of the contest crowning the Queen of Love and Beauty. The tilting is a gala event
for the countryside, some of the contestants traveling long distances to partici-
pate. After the riding there are usually a chicken-supper and dance.

Beyond the junction with the unnumbered roads, US 1 begins
gradually to descend, crossing Deer Greek at 18.5 m., then rising
again on an easy grade. The scenery along the creek is picturesque,
and for several miles along the highway are sweeping views, espe-
cially over the valley (R).

At 23.1 m. is the junction with State 23. On the far corner at this
junction is ST. IGNATIUS ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH, a large stone
structure that has stood for a hundred years. Services in this section
were started by itinerant priests who traveled on horseback.

Right 2 m. on State 23 is FOREST HILL (544 alt., 365 pop.), the trading
and banking center of a rich dairying section that provides a large part of the
milk supply for Baltimore. In the vicinity are several canneries and a plant nurs-
ery.

Right from Forest Hill on State 24, which at 1 m. enters the valley of Deer
Creek; the road gradually descends and skirts Stirrup Run and Deer Creek.
Above the confluence of these streams, Deer Creek runs through a gorge with
steep, wooded sides; the highway parallels the creek for two or three miles. This
picturesque section reaches its climax in the ROCKS OF DEER CREEK, 5 m. Here,
at a narrow point, rock cliffs rise on both sides to a height of 250 ft. above the
stream. There are picnic tables here and a path that ascends the cliff. The large
frame building by the railroad was formerly a hotel.

Beyond Forest Hill on State 23 is JARRETTSVILLE, 8.2 m. (265 pop.).
The mining of chrome was formerly an important industry in this section, but the
deposits have long since been exhausted.

Left from Jarrettsville 2.6 m. on State 165 to old HARFORD BAPTIST CHURCH
(R) near Winters Run. This church, dating from 1754, is the second oldest of the

i6a U. S. ONE

denomination in Maryland. It was founded by a group that withdrew from the
Chestnut Ridge (or Sater's) Church to form a Particular (Calvinistic) Church,
the Chestnut Ridge Church being General Baptist (Arminian). Over the door of
the old Harford Church is inscribed "1787," indicating the year of its erection.
It is believed, however, that the original structure was largely retained in the
rebuilding. The church is a plain brick building, rectangular in shape. The
present membership is small, services being held only once a month by itinerant
ministers.

At 12 m. (R) on State 23 is the BETHEL PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH. The present
building, erected in 1802, is the third built here, the original structure dating
back at least to 1769, when the first regular minister was called.

BEL AIR, 26.1 m. (396 alt., 1,650 pop.), is a busy and thriving
town, the seat of Harford County, and the trading and banking cen-
ter for a rich farming section. It has three inns and a number of
boarding houses. Three weekly newspapers are published the
Bel Air Times and the Aegis for Bel Air, and the Harford Democrat-
Enterprise for Bel Air and Aberdeen.

Harford County was until 1773 a part of Baltimore County, old
Harford Town on Bush River being first designated as the former's
county seat. In 1782 an election held to decide the county seat was
won by Aquila Scott's Old Field, the site of the present Bel Air.
A strong movement in favor of Havre de Grace developed, but a
second election in 1787 again resulted in favor of Belle Air, as the
name was originally spelled. The town was incorporated in 1901.

Bel Air does not present a modern or planned appearance; it is a
charming place, however, with tree-bordered streets and comfortable
houses. The population is composed largely of families with distin-
guished Maryland lineage; there is, accordingly, a pride in local
history.

Entering Bel Air from the N. US 1 makes a sharp turn (R) into
Broadway, which is lined with rows of large maple trees, arching
overhead.

At a traffic light US 1 turns L. into Main St. A short distance
beyond this turn, Bond St. branches R. from Main St. The US 1
markers follow Bond St., which affords a slight cut-off.

On Bond Street is (R) the COUNTRY CLUB INN, a long wooden,
two-story structure with the lower walls now stuccoed; it stands in
attractive grounds. The original log building, no longer in evidence,
is incorporated in the southeast end. In cutting a window some years
ago, a workman found between the logs a shingle bearing the date
1718, which is believed to have been the date of erection. The main

MARYLAND 163

addition was built in 1790; since that time there have been altera-
tions and additions. Formerly the old Eagle Hotel, the inn has enter-
tained many distinguished guests. It contains old furnishings of
interest.

The ARMORY (L), on Main Street, is the home of the local com-
pany of the Maryland National Guard, and also serves as a com-
munity hall. Directly opposite is the HARFORD COUNTY PUBLIC
LIBRARY, occupying a small house believed to be very old. On Penn-
sylvania Avenue is the former BEL AIR ACADEMY, a substantial struc-
ture built of stone, now plastered over; it is now a private residence.
The school was chartered by the legislature in 1811, and opened in
1816 as the Harford County Academy, with the Reverend Reuben
Davis as principal. He was a noted educator in his day; a large por-
trait of him hangs in the office of the Board of Education in the court-
house. Some years after the academy was opened, it was raised to
the rank of a college, renamed Maryland College, and empowered
to grant degrees. It is believed that no degrees were granted, how-
ever, as the school shortly reverted to the status of an academy, this
time being called Bel Air Academy. In 1888 a consolidation was
effected with the town's public elementary school, and some of the
elementary grades were housed in the academy building until about
1907, when its use was discontinued; the united institution was called
the Bel Air Academy and Graded School until 1907. when the name
Bel Air High School was officially adopted for the higher grades.

The COURTHOUSE is a large brick building, built in 1858 and en-
larged in 1904; the original courthouse, built in 1791, was burned.
The courthouse is a local "hall of fame," housing the portraits of
many Harford County celebrities, including that of the actor, Edwin
Booth, who was born near Bel Air.

Kenmore Inn is on the SITE OF THE WILLIAM PINKNEY HOUSE.
Pinkney, born in Annapolis on March 17, 1764, was a statesman,
diplomat, and lawyer. He served as Attorney General of the United
States from 1811 to 1814, and later as U.S. Senator from Maryland.

On the southern outskirts of Bel Air, at 27 m. (R), are the HAR-
FORD COUNTY FAIR GROUNDS, where the annual fair is held in Octo-
ber. The Harford County Pony Show is held here in June.

US 1 between Bel Air and Baltimore, known locally as the Bel Air
Road, has an excellent new three-lane roadbed. At 29 m. is the
junction with State 147, the Harford Road, an alternate route

1 64 U. S. ONE

between here and Baltimore, only slightly longer than the main
route. STATE POLICE SUBSTATION D is at the fork between the roads.
On US 1 at 29.3 m. (L) is the junction with a dirt road, marked
by a sign reading "Fresh Air Farm."

Left on this dirt road 1 m. to the FRESH AIR FARM, containing 38 acres, with
suitable buildings and playground facilities, including a swimming pool. It is
maintained by the Children's Fresh Air Society of Baltimore, for the benefit of
neglected and destitute boys and girls between 5 and 12 years of age. Since its
establishment in 1891, it has cared for nearly a quarter of a million children.
During school vacation it has a new set of 350 children every 10 days. The main
dining hall is in a great stone barn reputed to have been built in 1819. Milk and
vegetables for the table are produced on the farm.

At 30.3 m. is the junction, marked "Lynch's Corner," with a
macadam road.

Left on this road 1.4 m. is (L) an old STONE BARN, now in dilapidated condi-
tion, that was originally part of a stagecoach station. After the Battle of Monoc-
acy, on July 9, 1864, the Confederates had a free hand for a time in Maryland.
Gen. B. T. Johnson was detached with a cavalry force to destroy the lines of com-
munication with Baltimore. From Cockeysville Johnson sent Maj. Harry Gilmor
with a detachment of the Second Maryland Cavalry, C.S.A., to burn the railroad
bridges over the Gunpowder and Bush Rivers. Gilmor's raiders moved along the
Joppa Road to Magnolia Station, where they captured the morning express from
Baltimore, set fire to it, and backed it onto the Gunpowder Bridge. On their way
to Gunpowder, Gilmor and his men camped in and around this building.

Left from this point 1.6 m. on a dirt road is (R) the entrance to OLNEY (open
on request), home of J. Alexis Shriver, former secretary of the Maryland Historical
Society. Between the road and the house is woodland, and behind it is a delightful
garden enhanced by evergreens and boxwood. The tract x originally called Pros-
pect, was acquired by John Norris in the 1700's but the main part of the present
house, typically Southern in appearance, was built in 1810. The place has always
been in careful hands, and when the present owner in 1927 undertook its restora-
tion to former beauty and its embellishment, he had a structure basically sound
to work with; he was aided by an architect who had done much work on old
houses and who later reconstructed Wakefield, the birthplace of George Wash-
ington. The chief addition to the exterior was a portico salvaged when the old
Atheneum Club building in Baltimore was razed; this structure had been built
in 1830 as a residence. The four marble columns of the portico, weighing 18 tons
each, had been cut at the Beaver Dam quarries and their transportation to
Baltimore was an even greater problem than was their later conveyance to Olney.
On the marble door-lintel are cherubs, representing Art and Literature, carved
by Jardella for the mansion Robert Morris was building when his land specula-
tions brought him to bankruptcy; the lintel was acquired and used by one of his
creditors in a house that, because of the ornament, became known as Angel
House. The interior of the Olney house has beautiful woodwork and contains
fine old family furniture and many articles of historic interest.

MARYLAND 165

US 1 descends and at 31.5 in. crosses LITTLE GUNPOWDER FALLS,
the dividing line between Harford and Baltimore Counties; the nar-
row wooded valley presents an attractive view.

At 33 m. (L) is the HOODOO MARKER, so called because of the in-
scription: "Cursed be he who removeth his neighbor's landmark,
and all the people shall say amen. Deuteronomy, Chap. 27, Verse
17." Above this is the boundary inscription: "This stone is in place
of a double poplar tree, a boundary of expectation francis freedom
alias young's escape and the second boundary of onion's prospect
hill, the latter now owned by Edward Day." This ancient marker,
much used by surveyors, is a rough shaft about nine feet high; only
the side bearing the inscriptions is smooth. The dark stone, hard as
flint, and now painted white on its face, is close to the road, though
owing to a fill the top of the stone is now at the road level. The stone,
thought to be at least 1 50 yrs. old, is probably a relic of a lifetime of
quarreling between brothers, John and Edward Day. The only near
reconciliation of the men occurred when Edward was supposed to be
on his deathbed and his pastor, shocked by the idea of one of the
brothers going to death with the breach unhealed, persuaded John
to enter the sick man's bedroom. He thought his efforts had been
successful until John was about to leave. Edward called him back for
a last word, "John, if I die this is a go; if I get well it's all off." He
recovered and the brothers died enemies.

At 33.5m. (L), on the outskirts of Kingsville, is ST. JOHN'S P.E.
CHURCH, situated on the strip of ground lying between US 1 and the
Jerusalem Road. Copley Parish Church, originally named for Gov-
ernor Copley and later named St. John's, was erected in 1692 at Elk
Neck on the northern side of Gunpowder River. Joppa Town,
founded in 1712, became the county seat and the congregation of St.
John's two years later built a new church there, this time of brick; by
1750 the population of the area had increased to the point that a
"chapel of ease" was built at the forks of the Gunpowder; 18 years
later, however, when Baltimore became the county seat, a steady
decrease in population began. When a new building was needed in
1815, Edward Day is said to have given three acres of ground and
with his own funds built a church at this fork of the roads. Later a
chancel, belfry, and vestry-room were added to the original plain
structure; in 1896 a new building was erected beside the old.
The parish's old communion service, one of the many presented

i66 U. S. ONE

in the name of Queen Anne, is kept in the Diocesan Library in
Baltimore.

The St. John's Church lot is bounded at the south end by a road
forming a short cut between US 1 and Jerusalem Road. On US 1, at
the far corner of this junction, is a sign with an arrow pointing across
the road to a paved road that branches (R) from US 1.

Right on this road at 1.1 m. (R) is the SITE OF ISHMAEL DAY'S HOUSE. A small
farmhouse now stands on the old foundations. When on July 11, 1864, one of
Gilmor's Confederate cavalrymen pulled down the Union flag, Day, the owner
of the house, shot him and escaped into the woods. The Confederates burned the
house and barn.

KINGSVILLE, 33.6 m. (271 alt., 50 pop.), is a banking and
trading center.

KINGSVILLE INN (R) is a long two-and-a-half-story building with a
central gable and six dormer windows. The earliest part, now the
south end, was a dwelling built by the Reverend Mr. Deans, rector
of St. John's Church, then in Joppa Town. The date of erection,
1753, is inscribed on a fireback recently removed from the fireplace
in the living room; this lovely piece of ironwork was cast at the Piney
Grove furnace just above Joppa. In the living room are the original
paneling and window seats, and the stairway and the mantel on the
second floor are worth attention. On the front door is the original
knocker. It is not definitely known when the building was enlarged
and converted into an inn, but it was probably early in the 1800's.
Except that the stone walls have been plastered over, the front of the
structure retains much of its early appearance; it has been enlarged
by wooden additions in the rear.

The house has the usual tradition that Washington and Lafayette
were guests, though the story cannot be substantiated. John Paul, a
son-in-law of the Reverend Mr. Deans, operated a gristmill on the
Little Gunpowder Falls stream at the Philadelphia Road. Accused
of selling flour to the British, he was arrested and sentenced to death,
but escaped and hid in a cave that is below Vinegar Hill near Frank-
linville, on the Little Gunpowder Falls stream about three miles SE.
of Kingsville. According to one account, Paul eventually managed
to board a ship bound for England.

Left from Kingsville on a macadam road is JERUSALEM, 2 m. (20 pop.),
on the far side of the stream called Little Gunpowder Falls. Just E. of the bridge
is (R) JERUSALEM MILLS (see illustration), established in 1772 by David Lee, a

MARYLAND 167

Quaker from Bucks County, Pennsylvania. A number of the oldest mills in the
State were founded by Quakers from Pennsylvania, who appreciated the value of
Maryland's streams as sources of power. During the Revolution, David Lee,
though a Friend, operated a gun factory in a two-story stone building still
standing behind the mill and now used as a dwelling. The mill has stone walls in
the first story, but the upper two stories are of wooden construction. The present
basement and first story are parts of the original building. The ceilings are sup-
ported by two-foot-thick, hand-hewn beams of white oak that show no signs of
decay. It is believed that the original building had a second story with sloping
roof, but that the present upper structure was erected later; it has two tiers of
dormer windows, an unusual feature for a mill. The mill is still active, using a
ponderous stone grinder. During the Civil War, the grandson of the founder
did a nourishing business and built himself a mansion of 20 rooms that is still
standing a short distance from the mill.

At 35.6 m. the highway dips to cross the main GUNPOWDER FALLS.
At 36.4 m. is a junction with a marked dirt road.

Right on this dirt road 0.6 in. is (R) the entrance lane to PERRY HALL MAN-
SION (open), situated on an elevation that commands a wide view. The former
house on the site, built about 1750 for Harry Dorsey Gough, was one of the larg-
est in Maryland; after a fire in 1824 half the structure was rebuilt.

The first definite record of the place is in an advertisement of April 19, 1783,
for a gardener. Gough, one of the wealthiest landowners in the State, spent lav-
ishly both on his home and for the improvement and beautification of his
grounds. In Gough's time the estate contained several thousand acres, but it now
has only about 200.

The thick walls are of brick, now plastered over, and the foundation is massive.
The main part of the house (see illustration) is three-storied with dormer windows,
and the wing is two-storied; there was formerly a similar wing on the other side
and pavilions beyond the wings. In one end was the chapel and in the other an
elaborate Roman bath, an unusual feature in houses of the period in America.
A painting of the house, made in 1800 and now in the museum of the Washington
Monument in Baltimore, shows the house in the days of its glory. At present it
is merely a large substantial house without special distinction; the paneling and
other interior woodwork have been taken away. The flooring is fire-proofed with
a layer of plaster. The wide center hall and fireplaces in each room remain.

Perry Hall holds a high place in Methodist annals. Through his wife's influ-
ence, Gough was converted to Methodism, and erected a chapel. His home was a
center of hospitality for itinerant Methodist preachers, notably Asbury and
Thomas Coke. Here in December 1784 assembled a group that then rode to
Baltimore for the Christmas Conference at Lovely Lane Meeting House, where
the Methodist Episcopal Church in America was organized and Francis Asbury
was elected superintendent.

PERRY HALL, 36.7 m. (256 alt., 263 pop.), extends thinly along
US 1 . Between here and Baltimore the roadside is more closely built
up, though there are long gaps of open country.

1 68 U. S. ONE

At 38.5 m. (L) is the junction with the Joppa Road, originally an
Indian trail that was used in 1695 by a troop of rangers from the Gar-
rison Fort.

Between this point and Baltimore the highway is four lanes wide.

FULLERTON, 40.5 m. (220 alt., 1,813 pop.), is an old village
that has developed with Baltimore. The name of the village is now
loosely applied to the settlement along the highway from this point
practically to the city line.

At 45.5 m. is HERRING RUN PARK, extending along the stream
valley, and at 46 m. (R) is CLIFTON PARK. At 46.7 m. is the junction
with North Ave.

US 1 bypasses downtown Baltimore; R. on North Ave.; L. at 50 m. on Monroe
St., which at the lower end swings L. along Carroll Park; R. at 52.5 m. on what
is known as the Washington Pike. There is no fast boulevard route through or
around Baltimore; traffic moves slowly on North Ave. because of the many
streetcars and traffic lights. Those unfamiliar with the city are advised against
attempting short cuts because of the ravine that bisects the city, and the narrow,
some tunes cobblestoned streets in the downtown area.

To downtown Baltimore: Right on North Ave. to St. Paul St., a
boulevard, at 48.2 m.; L. on Fayette St. at 49.6 m. to City Hall,
49.8 m.

BALTIMORE, 49.8 m. (80 alt., 804,874 pop.), historic and in-
dustrial city (see MD. GUIDE).

Railroad Stations. Pennsylvania R.R. and Western Maryland Ry., Pennsyl-
vania Station, Charles St. S. of North Ave.; Baltimore & Ohio R.R., Mount
Royal Station, Mount Royal Ave. two blocks W. of Charles St. ; Baltimore &
Ohio R.R. and Baltimore & Annapolis R.R. (electric), Camden Station (down-
town), Howard and Camden Sts.; Maryland & Pennsylvania R.R., North Sta-
tion, two blocks W. of Charles St.

Points of Interest. Washington Monument, Johns Hopkins University, Walters
Art Gallery, Baltimore Museum of Art, Fort McHenry, Goucher College,
Peabody Institute and Conservatory of Music, and others.

Section 14. Baltimore to Washington, D. C., 39.2 m.

From City Hall, Baltimore, m., W. on Fayette St. to Monroe
St.; L. to the foot of Monroe St.; then R. on the Washington Blvd.
Here the route for a time follows a route that is congested during
rush hours and on holidays.

The route between Baltimore and Washington is through a gently
rolling country, with few steep hills. It is generally lacking in scenic

MARYLAND 169

interest, though occasionally affording pleasant views. Truck farming
is predominant, especially in the vicinity of the cities. There are no
large towns.

At approximately 4.7 m. is the boundary line between the city of
Baltimore and Baltimore Co.

HALETHORPE, 6.7 m. (180 alt., 1,831 pop.), is a suburb the
majority of whose inhabitants are employed hi Baltimore.

Between September 24 and October 15, 1929, there was held in a
large field (L) in Halethorpe the Fair of the Iron Horse, commemo-
rating the centennial of the introduction of the steam engine in rail
transportation. The fair was arranged under the auspices of the
Baltimore & Ohio Railroad Co., the first to run steam trains out of
Baltimore.

On this same field in 1910 was held what its sponsors claimed to
be the first major airplane meet in the United States. A group of
business and professional men financed the exhibition. Among the
flyers taking part were Hubert Latham, Count de Lesseps, Ely Wil-
lard, James Radley, Tony Drexel, and Arch Hoxey. It was during
the meet that Latham in a 50-horsepower monoplane flew over
Baltimore, in the first successful flight made over a large American
city. He won a prize of $5,000 and an extra $500 donated by Ross
Winans, who watched the flight from his home. Virtually every resi-
dent of Baltimore paused to gape at the marvel of a man-made ma-
chine piloted by a human being, flying over a city. Thousands of
visitors came from other cities to witness the breath-taking feats of
the daring pioneer fliers at Halethorpe Field. Today mail and pas-
senger planes fly over Baltimore daily without even a passing notice
from most of the citizens.

South of Halethorpe US 1 traverses rolling country, with fine farm
lands on each side. Truck farming is now carried on almost exclu-
sively, though long ago the section produced much tobacco.

RELAY, 7.7 m. (200 alt., 2,016 pop.), on the eastern bank of the
Patapsco River, derives its name from the fact that when the Balti-
more & Ohio R.R. used horses to draw passenger coaches and freight
cars over the rails from Baltimore to Ellicott Mills, it was at this
point that a relay of horses was attached to the train and the journey
up the Patapsco Valley was resumed.

THOMAS VIADUCT, the oldest railroad viaduct of its type in the
world, spans the river at this point. It cannot be seen from US 1,

170 TJ. S. ONE

but is reached by a side road from either end of the highway bridge.
Over this viaduct, which today echoes to the thunderous passage of
modern giant locomotives, steel passenger cars, and ponderous freight
trains, a century ago puffed diminutive locomotives drawing tiny
wooden passenger and freight cars. According to engineers the struc-
ture, despite its age, is in as good condition today as it was in 1835
when it was built. It is constructed of native granite from a design by
Benjamin H. Latrobe, son of the Benjamin Latrobe who designed the
Roman Catholic Cathedral in Baltimore. The span is 612 ft. long,
with eight elliptical arches. More than 24,000 cubic yards of masonry
went into its construction and its cost was approximately $150,000.
Today it would be impossible, experts say, to duplicate the bridge for
a sum anywhere near the original cost. It would also be difficult, it
is said, to procure skilled labor, particularly stone masons, able to do
this kind of work. The bridge is built in an arc but easily accommo-
dates the largest modern passenger and freight cars.

Beneath the structure is one of the best gudgeon fishing spots in
the State. Anglers of all ages and both sexes come by the hundreds to
cast their lines for the tiny fish that make such a succulent meal. Few
bother to pick the small bones from this fish when it is properly
cooked; there are those who prefer gudgeon to lobster, shad, trout,
bass, or any other kind of sea food.

Right from Relay along the stream into the lowest section of the PATAPSCO
STATE PARK, which lies between Relay and Ellicott City. (Permits for camping may
be obtained from State Department of Forestry, Fidelity Building, Baltimore, Md.; per-
mission for a single night's camping obtained 'from the park superintendent at Ilchester.) The
RIVER ROAD through the park is a scenic drive of exceptional beauty. For almost
the entire length of the area, the Patapsco River flows through a deep broad gorge,
the wooded hills on either side rising to an elevation of 250 ft. above the stream.

From the plateau above flow numerous streams, which produce cascades and
miniature waterfalls as they tumble over rocky ledges. Foot trails and bridle
paths have been laid out. The most picturesque is the CASCADE TRAIL along
Cascade Branch at Orange Grove, halfway between Relay and Ellicott City.

ELKRIDGE, 8.7 m. (1,556 pop.), is skirted by US 1. The land
rising from the Patapsco River is hilly and picturesque, and in recent
times has had considerable development as a residential suburb of
Baltimore. Elkridge, still important as a trading center for the sur-
rounding farm area, was in Colonial days, when it was known as Elk
Ridge Landing, one of the principal shipping points in Maryland for
tobacco, grain, and timber. The creek has now silted up. From 1750

MARYLAND 171

until the Revolutionary War it was a port of entry for Anne Arundel
Co., which at one time included parts of what is now Howard Co.
Special excise and customs agents were stationed at the port by the
British for the purpose of assessing the tobacco shipped from there,
mainly to foreign countries. The tobacco was rolled by Negro slaves
from the plantations in huge hogsheads, and the route from the N. to
the landing to this day retains the name of Rolling Road. During the
Revolutionary War the tobacco trade languished considerably, but
local forges and furnaces were kept busy turning out arms for the
Continental Army.

At Elk Ridge Landing in 1765 Zachariah Hood, British Stamp Act
agent in Maryland, was hanged in effigy. Lafayette and his troops
camped here April 17 and 18, 1781, on their way to engage the forces
of Cornwallis in Virginia.

At 9.8 m. is the junction with an unnumbered road.

Right on this road 1 m. to the second paved road R.; then L. at the first fork to
BELMONT (private), 2 m., a notable place of the past. The brick house, now cov-
ered with yellow plaster, was built in 1783 by Caleb Dorsey, who had become
wealthy through trading in iron ore mined near Elk Ridge Landing. He devel-
oped the place for his bride, born Priscilla Hill, of West River. The low, rambling
structure has much charm and is surrounded by gardens that were the pride of
the owner and his wife, who planted the beautiful box hedge that is now 15 ft.
high in some places. On each door of the house is a huge iron "witch cross" and
on the main door an iron plate with the inscription "C&P 1783."

Belmont was until his death in 1829 the home of Alexander Contee Hanson,
an editor and a Congressman from Maryland, who was the grandson of John
Hanson, President of the Continental Congress in 1781.

WATERLOO, 13.7 m., is a crossroads community where once
stood a famous inn of its day, Spurrier's Tavern, which burned many
years ago. A small modern house stands on part of the foundations of
the old structure. The tall cedars that once shaded the tavern and an
ancient stone smokehouse are still here. Spurrier's Tavern was for
many years a stopping place for travelers between Washington and
Baltimore and between Annapolis and Frederick. Here the roads to
these places crossed, and many famous men came to the tavern for
food, refreshments, and rest. On June 18, 1795, George Washington
wrote in his diary "dined and lodged at Spurrier's where my horse
died (overcome by heat)."

LAUREL RACE TRACK, 19.2 m. (L), on the northern outskirts of
the town of Laurel, is one of the best patronized tracks in the United

172 U. S. ONE

States. The grandstand, seating about 10,000, is usually well filled
each day of the fall racing season, which lasts a full month. The track
was opened in 1912, and is the only one of the four one-mile tracks in
Maryland that takes its full quota of racing days consecutively. The
other tracks divide their quotas into spring and fall meets of two
weeks each. The feature races and prizes here are: Laurel Handicap,
Maryland Handicap, and Selima Stakes, each for $30,000; Wash-
ington Handicap, $25,000; Richard Johnson Stakes, Spalding Lowe
Jenkins Handicap, Governor Ogle Handicap, and Chevy Chase
Steeplechase Handicap, $10,000 each; and Capital Handicap,
$5,000.

LAUREL, 19.7 m. (156 alt., 2,532 pop.), is on land once owned
by Richard Snowden, an officer in Cromwell's army, who came to
Maryland late in the 17th century. The Snowdens had extensive
holdings and played an important part in the development of this
entire section of country. The town apparently derives its name from
the fact that mountain laurel in profusion covers the hill back of the
town. In its early history, the town was known as Laurel Factory.

High-grade iron ore was discovered on the Snowden tract, and the
Patuxent Iron Ore Co. was formed in 1736 to exploit the find. In
1811 Nicholas Snowden erected a flour mill; previously, grain grown
in the section was shipped by water to mills in nearby towns. The
mill ceased operations in 1824. A brick house standing beside the old
millrace is pointed out as NICHOLAS SNOWDEN'S MANSION.

In 1887 David Weems conceived the idea of connecting the larger
centers of the country with fast electric rail service. His original
plans were for an electric line between Boston and Washington, pass-
ing through New York, Philadelphia, and Baltimore. Leading sci-
entists in the field of electricity became interested in the idea, and at
Laurel was constructed a circular track several miles in circumfer-
ence, the superstructure of which carried an inverted overhead T-rail
to serve as a trolley as well as a guide. The locomotive weighed three
tons and had three axles, each serving as a shaft for a powerful motor.
The drivers, 40 in. in diameter, were set to a 28-in. gage track, and
were connected directly with the motors, no gears being used.
Built exclusively for speed, it was more or less streamlined; the loco-
motive actually attained a speed of 120 miles per hour at the trials.
The locomotive maintained this speed for 22 minutes, when the
superstructure collapsed under the terrific strain; the huge steel bulk

MARYLAND 173

hurtled through the air for a distance of more than a hundred
feet and was demolished. Proponents of the electrification scheme
dropped the project because funds to continue the experiments were
not available.

At the eastern edge of Laurel, along the Patuxent River, have been
found TRACES OF AN EARLY INDIAN SETTLEMENT (L). Here are
abandoned quarries that were worked long before the coming of the
white man to this section. The quarries, from which was obtained
stone especially adapted to the fashioning of cooking utensils and
ornamental jugs, have yielded many fine products of Indian work-
manship. In pits and in fields nearby have been found bits of pottery,
arrowheads, and grooved axes. The fondness of these Indians for
oysters is also plainly manifested by the presence of huge piles of
oyster shells, uncovered in the course of digging operations. That
the Indians who once inhabited this site knew how to extract copper
from ore and work it is evidenced by the many pieces of crude plates,
shields, and ornamental bangles found in the vicinity.

At 20 m. is the junction with a paved road.

Left on this road to (R) the entrance lane of MONTPELIER (private), 2m., which
stands about a quarter of a mile from the highway. Construction of this large
brick house, whose walls are laid in Flemish bond, was begun some time before
1751 by Thomas Snowden and completed by his son, Maj. Thomas Snowden;
the son himself is said to have done some of the carving in the drawing room.

The house stands on a little knoll, from which ground falls away so abruptly
that the floors of the wings, which have octagonal ends, are considerably lower
than is that of the main section. Near the house are several hundred feet of fine
old boxwood in double rows, part of it trained to form a cool alley between the
house and a little gazebo with a charming view.

The rich garden entrance leads into the center hall, from which open rooms
ornamented with elaborate carvings.

At 9 m. is the BOWIE RACE TRACK, constructed by the Southern Maryland
Agricultural and Breeding Association. The track was completed hi 1914 and
has been in operation ever since, the pari-mutuel betting system being used.
Bowie, one of the State's most popular and solvent tracks, is a regulation mile in
length, with a chute running into the home stretch, making it possible to run
events of more than a mile if desired. The home stretch is 90 ft. wide, permitting
the line-up of large fields. The back stretch is 75 ft. wide. The grandstand seats
14,500 persons.

The eastern racing season is ushered in at Bowie the first Monday in April.
Thirteen-day meets are run in the spring and in the fall. Among stake events and
handicaps on the program are Bryan and O'Hara Memorials, Rowe Inaugural,
Bowie Memorial, Kindergarten Stakes, Southern Maryland Handicap, Endur-
ance Handicap, and Thanksgiving Day Handicap. Because of its proximity to

i 7 4 U. S. ONE

Washington, the Capital's social set, members of the diplomatic corps, and many
Government officials are frequently in attendance during the meets.

At 21.7 m. on US 1 is the junction with a dirt road.

Left on this road 0.3 m. is the entrance lane to OAKLAND (private). The man-
sion, on an elevated site, can be seen from US 1. It stands on an estate that origi-
nally contained 2,000 acres and was built in 1798 by Richard Snowden, son of
Maj. Thomas Snowden of Montpelier. The house is a sturdy brick structure
distinguished by fine front and rear doorways and by the excellence of the brick-
work, the customary monotony being varied by heavy, glazed headers. In the
rear is a charming terraced garden from which the rolling country can be viewed
for many miles. A wing contains the kitchen, pantry, and servants' quarters.
In each room of the house is a fireplace across the corner farthest from the en-
trance door. The ceilings are high and the wainscoting and paneling especially
attractive. An unusually wide staircase, with a Fairfax clock on the landing,
ascends from the first floor hall. The remnants of a secret stairway that led from
the sitting room to the master's bedroom can still be seen.

This sitting room was a favorite gathering place for notables who liked to play
cards for high stakes. A favorite legend associated with the place is that one eve-
ning, during a boisterous game in which the stakes were unusually high, one of the
players was suddenly called away by an urgent message. As the guest hurriedly
left to answer the summons, the host, annoyed at the interruption, is said to have
remarked, "I will play with the devil if he takes your place"; whereupon a tall
slim man is said to have entered the room and asked that he be allowed to enter
the game. "Be seated," the host invited, "though we do not know your name."
The stranger, without deigning a reply, sat down and began to play and soon
had won all the money in sight. The other players afterward said they had noticed
a forked tail beneath the visitor's cloak but many to whom they told the story
were sceptical, remembering the host's possession of a fine wine supply.

MUIRKIRK, 23.2 m. (109 pop.), was once the center of a large
iron manufacturing industry, the ore being mined in the nearby
hills. It is believed that the place was named for a Scot named Muir,
whose interest in the activities being carried on there was so great
that he even spent Sundays in the mines or at the furnaces. His home
later became known as Muir Kirk, or Muir Church.

The original furnaces were built in 1747. Still standing are Six
CHARCOAL OVENS of brick, in the shape of beehives, after the manner
of those in England at that time. Iron produced at Muirkirk mills
had a remarkable degree of tensile strength, and for that reason was
much in demand and commanded a high price. The mills outlasted
practically all other iron forges in Maryland operating during and
after the Revolutionary War. In Civil War days, the Muirkirk forges
supplied the Federal Government with a considerable number of

MARYLAND 175

cannon and cannon balls. Later, with the advent of modern arma-
ment, the plant manufactured gun carriages, and even engaged in
the peaceful business of manufacturing car wheels. In 1880 an ex-
plosion razed the entire plant, but it was immediately rebuilt.

At about the time of the World War, the plant began manufactur-
ing a high grade ochre from ores obtained in the vicinity. In 1924
a firm that made coloring matter took over the business, and now,
instead of Maryland ores, high grade ores from Spain, Germany,
Sardinia, France, India, South Africa, and Chile are used in the
manufacture of pigments sold all over the world. At one time hun-
dreds of men were employed at the mills and in the nearby mines.
The population dwindled to slightly more than a hundred, though a
gradual increase has come in recent years.

Left from the bridge and across the railroad tracks, opposite the
railroad station, is the BIG HOUSE (private) . A driveway bordered by
linden trees leads to the dwelling, a three-story and basement struc-
ture. Built by William E. Coffin for his son about 1847, it is a double
dwelling with a central hall and 17 rooms. In the cellar is an artesian
well that supplies water to the household. There is a private gas plant
used to light the place before there was electric service. The dining
room, which runs the entire width of the house, is paneled with wal-
nut and chestnut boards two inches thick. On the first floor is a ball-
room with a raised platform that was sometimes used as a stage.
Legend has it that the Coffin family was exceptionally hospitable
and diplomatic and that at times during the Civil War Confederates
were being entertained in one section of the double house, while
Union leaders were enjoying a feast in another.

At 23.4 m. (L) is a marker commemorating the first official
telegram. It recites that this telegram, reading "What hath God
wrought," passed over the wires on a line of poles along the B. & O.
R.R. from Washington to Baltimore on May 24, 1844.

At 24.2 m. (R), on a large estate, is the AMMEMDALE NORMAL
INSTITUTE. The buildings are visible from the highway, though set
back several hundred yards. This is the Provincial House and Noviti-
ate of the Brothers of the Christian Schools for the District of Balti-
more. The institute prepares young men for the teaching brotherhood
and also serves as a retreat for members of the order who are physi-
cally unable to carry on their work. The members of the brotherhood
cultivate the extensive farm on the estate. The organization was first

176 U. S. ONE

established in America at Baltimore by two members who came
from Canada in 1845.

At 25.1 m., by the Beltsville Station, is a junction with a paved
road.

Left on this paved road, which crosses the railroad tracks; there L. on a dirt
road 0.5 m. to the former VAN HORN'S TAVERN (L), now a run-down private
dwelling. \

On the paved road at 0.5 m. from US 1 is the entrance to the NATIONAL AGRI-
CULTURAL RESEARCH CENTER (best visiting hours 9-4 weekdays, 9-1 Sat.}, largest
farm demonstration unit in the world; a 14,000-acre testing ground equipped with
barns, laboratories, and research facilities to accommodate the work of 20
subdivisions of the Department of Agriculture Bureaus of Soil Conservation,
Forest Service, Dairy Industry, Animal Industry, Chemistry and Soils, Food and
Drug Administration, Biological Survey, and Plant Industry.

The center coordinates the work of local agencies and undertakes basic investi-
gations. Here scientists are developing new strains of plants and livestock, in-
venting new farm machines, fighting animal parasites and diseases, improving
marketing methods, studying nutrition problems, and finding new uses for farm
products.

Although more than 500 trained people are employed here, and the annual
cost of their experiments averages approximately a million dollars, the center is
proving a good investment. One investigation in the storing of sweet potatoes,
for example, has resulted in an annual saving to potato growers sufficient to pay
the operating cost of the center for ten years.

A paved road, East- West Highway, runs through the grounds.

At 0.8 m. is a DAIRY LABORATORY (R), with nearby homes for maintenance.

At 0.9 m. is the ADMINISTRATION BUILDING, a two-story light-colored stucco
building with a red roof. On the first floor are offices; in the basement laboratory
innumerable white mice used in a nutrition experiment are confined in cages,
each of which bears the pedigree, health record, and diet of the occupants. Even
to the untrained observer the difference made in the animals' health and energy
by the various diets is apparent.

In back of, and beside, the administration building are the DAIRY INDUSTRY
BARNS and SILOS, where experiments are proving that sperm cells taken from a
prize bull can be kept at low temperature and shipped to a distant farm for
artificial insemination. The last barn in this group contains the bulls, and beside
it, visible from the highway, is a BULL EXERCISER resembling a huge, rimless
wheel placed in a horizontal position. For two hours each morning the bulls are
harnessed to the spokes and a man sitting on the hub, forces them, by means of
a long whip, to plod in a circle. This forced exercise not only improves the bulls'
dispositions but also increases the number of years that they can be used for
breeding.

At 1 in. is a hard-surfaced drive curving L. in front of an old red-roofed house
built of brick painted a creamy white. This is BIRMINGHAM MANOR (not open),
built in 1785 and now the general superintendent's residence. The drive con-
tinues past two large red brick buildings, the NUTRITION LABORATORIES of the

MARYLAND 177

Bureau of Animal Industry. Diets are worked out here to increase the fertility of
cows, to produce hogs with firm flesh, and to prevent perosis or slip tendon in
chickens.

At 1.3 m. on East- West Highway is a junction with a dirt road; L. 0.2 m. to a
junction with a second dirt road; R. a few feet to the SHEEP BARN (L), a two-
story red brick building with one-story white stucco wings on each side. Here are
bred sheep superior in wool production and grade karakuls, the offspring of
Black-faced Corriedale or Highland ewes and Karakul rams.

At 1.5 m. on East- West Highway is the junction with a hard-surfaced road;
L. on this 0.1 m. to a dirt road (R) leading to the HOG BARNS. At 0.5 m. are the
POULTRY LABORATORIES, four large cream-colored stucco and brick buildings.
Here incubator eggs, just before hatching, are placed in "pedigree bags" to
help identify the new-born chicks; flocks are tested for tuberculosis; trap nests
identify good laying hens; and short-legged small- boned early maturing turkeys
are being bred.

At 1.9 m. on East- West Highway is (R) a LOG RECREATION BUILDING (kitchen
facilities, dance hall). Here is a junction with a dirt road; L. on the road a few
feet are the DOGS' RUNWAYS and HOUSE. Hungarian Pulis are being cross-bred
in an attempt to produce a superior type of sheep dog.

At 2.4 m. is the MACHINE SHOP (R); here is a dirt road (R) leading to the
HORSE BARN built with an unusually high first story and wide center aisle so
horses can be exercised in bad weather. Insulated ventilation shafts in the loft
carry off the exhausted air from the stalls below.

At the end of East- West Highway, 2.5 m., is the junction with a dirt road; R.
on this 0.2 m. is the center's GOAT BARN. In the goat herd high-grade milk does
are produced by selective breeding from the Toggenberg and Saanen strains.
The kids are all bottle fed so that an accurate record can be kept of their mothers'
milk production.

At 26.2 m. on US 1 is a junction with a hard-surfaced road.

Right here to the Bureau of Plant Industry's HORTICULTURAL STATION, 0.2 m.,
a part of the National Agricultural Research Center (see above). Behind the two
large white-trimmed red-brick laboratories are a series of greenhouses in which
seedlings are nourished in "manufactured" soil containing carefully measured
chemicals; experiments are hastened by budding and new varieties achieved by
crossing. The station has rendered fruit and vegetable growers valuable service
by developing a lettuce immune to brown blight and mildew, a mildew-resistant
melon, and the Marglobe tomato that not only resists Fusarium wilt and nailhcad
rust but produces a fruit so solid it brings a fancy price to the grower.

At 26.5 m. (R) is RHODES TAVERN, one of the few inns remaining
from Colonial days. A marker here recites: "Lieutenant General
George Washington dined at Rhodes Tavern on his last journey
from Philadelphia to Mt. Vernon December 18, 1798." During the
stagecoach era, this was the first stopping place for feeding and
watering horses on the trip from Washington to Baltimore. The

178 U. S. ONE

tavern, now operated as a tourist inn, is a three-story structure con-
taining 17 rooms and 11 fireplaces. The beams are of 14-in. square
oak timbers and some of the mantels are of unusual design. In the
kitchen the huge brick fireplace, with built-in oven, occupies the en-
tire space across one end; the three-cornered cupboard, the hand-
wrought meat hooks, the original locks which were brought from
England, and the doorknobs remain. The building stands in a 10-
acre lot; among the old trees remaining are two English elms, sup-
posed to have been imported, and some cedar and walnut trees.
There are six springs on the property, from one of which water is
piped into the house.

BERWYN, 28.4 m. (1,000 pop.), is largely a suburb of Washing-
ton.

Left from Berwyn on a paved road 3.5 m. is GREENBELT, officially known
as the Berwyn Resettlement Project, a model village projected by the Resettle-
ment Administration. In addition to providing low-priced housing for persons
with moderate incomes, construction of this model settlement gave work to
thousands of mechanics and laborers who were previously unemployed. The
project, begun in October 1935, is scheduled to be completed by the end of 1938
at a total cost of approximately $9,000,000. It is estimated that eventually a
thousand family units will be available, of which about 300 will be apart-
ments. Each group or row of houses accommodates six family units. There are
a few one-story dwellings, though the majority are two-story structures (see
illustration).

The village stands on a gently rolling, wooded tract of 3,800 acres. A small
stream wending its way through the village to empty into a lake on the outskirts
has been taken into account in the landscaping of the area and the arrangement
of the buildings, which have been planned with care to relieve the monotony
inherent in a development where all houses are being built from two basic plans
to keep costs low. In the planning of the village the most modern standards of
construction, ventilation, heating, sanitation, and arrangement have been ob-
served. A central plant will supply heat to the individual units; the village will
have all the usual community facilities, including a community hall and library.
Furniture has been especially planned for the houses, to fit the spaces properly,
specifications for the several types being based on sound design, solid construc-
tion, and low cost.

Underpasses have been built at the highway crossings for the protection of
pedestrians, and on the fringe of the village is garden space where householders
may raise their own vegetables; small farms are also available for those who want
to supply part of the community need for foodstuffs.

The property is being managed by a non-profit organization, supervised by
the Federal Government to prevent profiteering and speculation. The commu-
nity as a whole will pay taxes to the State. No family is permitted to live in the
village that has more than a certain income, determined by the organization.

MARYLAND 179

At 28.7 m. is the junction with a paved road.

Left on this side road is LAKELAND, 0.5 m. (300 pop.), a Negro suburban
community. The place received its name from the large number of artificial lakes,
in which goldfish are propagated. The site was surveyed and developed into a
subdivision by Edwin Newman, who built several residences and a large hall, the
latter for many years serving as a meeting place for fraternal organizations. This
subdivision was developed in 1890 by white residents, but by 1900 the influx of
Negro residents had grown to such proportions that the few remaining whites
moved out.

At COLLEGE PARK, 29.2 m. (316 pop.), is the seat of the UNI-
VERSITY OF MARYLAND, a coeducational institution. Chartered in
1856 as the Maryland Agricultural College, it was the second agri-
cultural college in the Western Hemisphere, having its inception
principally through the efforts of a group of enterprising southern
Maryland farmers, interested in stimulating agricultural research.
For three years after its charter was granted, it was privately oper-
ated, but in 1862, under the Land Grant Act passed by the National
Congress and accepted by the State General Assembly, it became in
part a State institution. In 1914 it was taken over entirely by the
State, and in 1916, under a new charter granted by the General As-
sembly, it became Maryland State College. In 1920, by an act of the
legislature, the professional schools of the University of Maryland in
Baltimore were merged with the college under the new name, the
University of Maryland.

The university grounds comprise 286 acres. A broad, rolling
campus is surmounted by a hill overlooking a wide area of surround-
ing country. On this hill are most of the 26 buildings.

The LIBRARY BUILDING is situated in the center of the campus on
a slope commanding a view of the surrounding countryside. Tall
trees form a setting for the red brick and limestone building. The
main stairway enters the delivery hall on the second floor, from
which there is access, through an arched entrance, to the reading
room, which occupies the entire front of the second floor and seats
250; the room is attractively decorated with walnut woodwork and
furnished with pedestal tables and Bank of England chairs. The
library has about 58,000 volumes.

In the Student Center are offices of the student publications, the
Religious Work Council, and the Maryland Christian Association.
Three student publications are conducted under the supervision of a
faculty committee: the Diamond Back, a weekly six- to eight-page

i8o U. S. ONE

newspaper published by the students; the Terrapin, the student
annual, published by the junior class; and the Old Time, a comic
magazine issued quarterly.

Many of the original forest trees still stand on the grounds, which
are attractively laid out in lawns and terraces, with ornamental
shrubbery and flower beds. Below the brow of the hill, on each side
of the Washington-Baltimore Boulevard, are the drill grounds and
athletic fields.

The buildings of the MARYLAND AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT
STATION adjoin the boulevard. About 100 acres are used by the
College of Agriculture for experimental purposes, and for orchards,
vineyards, and poultry yards. Recently an additional 200 acres were
purchased about two miles N. of the university campus, to be de-
voted exclusively to research in horticulture. The station has done
noteworthy work in the field of tree and plant culture. Experiments
begun in the apple orchards of western Maryland in 1933 developed
a great amount of valuable information concerning the nutritional
changes in fruit trees resulting from the addition of chemicals and
sugar to the soil. Tobacco yields have been increased and made more
uniform as the result of a series of experiments lasting over a period of
21 years. One of the present problems is the eradication of the
oriental fruit moth, which is causing Maryland fruit growers heavy
losses.

On the university grounds (R), opposite Ritchie Stadium, is
ROSSBURG INN, now used by the Agricultural Experiment Station, a
three-story structure of brick that may have come from England, for
the clay used in their manufacture is different from any found in this
part of the country. The building had a gabled roof, which was
changed to a mansard in 1888 when the large front porch was built;
the upstairs floors, the stairway, the railing, and the archway on the
first floor are all old. In the days when the house was used as an inn,
the front room on the left, now a laboratory, was the main reception
room, with a private stair leading down to the wine cellar.

The keystone over the door of Rossburg Inn has on it the name T.
Goad, the date 1798, and a figure that represents Silenus, eldest of
the satyrs and teacher of Bacchus. General Lafayette, on his last visit
to America, stopped overnight at Rossburg Inn, and his name has
been given to a room on the second floor. The inn is said to have
been the scene of several murders.

MARYLAND 181

RIVERDALE, 30.7 m. (37 alt., 1,533 pop.), is a community
many of whose inhabitants are employed in Washington. On Arthur
Ave. is CALVERT MANSION (private), built about the middle of the
18th century by Baron Von Stein, a refugee nobleman, for his
daughter, who married Charles Benedict Calvert, grandson of the
sixth Lord Baltimore. The stuccoed Georgian building is of brick.
The boxwood hedges on the terrace have been removed, but an old
cannon, said to have been one of the four brought over by Maryland
pilgrims in the Ark, still stands in the rear garden. The mansion has
been the scene of many distinguished social gatherings, and it is said
that Henry Clay wrote the Missouri Compromise while a visitor
here.

HYATTSVILLE, 31.4 m. (46 alt., 4,264 pop.), is the home of
many Federal employees and business and professional people em-
ployed in Washington, and is a banking and commercial center for
the surrounding area. The town, incorporated in 1880, was named
for Hyatt, who was its first postmaster. Hyatt's home, known as
HYATT MANOR, Rhode Island and Hyatt Aves., was built in 1850.
It is a large, square-built brick structure, painted yellow, with
porches across the front of both the first and second stories.

The FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, Wine and Johnson Aves., has a
silver communion set said to have been sent as a gift by Queen Anne
in 1707.

At Hyattsville there are alternate routes into Washington, both
marked US 1.

Right on an extension of Rhode Island Ave. which runs to the center of the city;
Rhode Island Ave. intersects 16th St. NW. eight blocks N. of the White House,
38.1m.

The older route of US 1 (L) crosses the viaduct and enters the
District of Columbia on the Bladensburg Road.

At 32 m. on the Bladensburg Road, just N. of the bridge over the
Anacostia River, is the junction with a dirt road marked Locust St.

Right on Locust St. 0.2 m. (L) is an EIGHT-SIDED HOUSE, an odd-looking
three-story frame structure to which a brick kitchen has been added. A number of
such houses were built in