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VALENTINE'S

City of New York
a guide book

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PAGE PICTURES

By
Henry Collins Brown

Editor of
"Valentine's Manual of Old New York

New York

VALENTINE'S MANUAL, Inc.

15 East 40th Stret

Henry Collins Brown

New York

MAR 24 1920
©CU566165

Press of The Chauncey Holt Company
New York City

THE INFORMATION CONTAINED
IN THIS BOOK

Page
How to See the City Inexpensively 3

Street Car Lines, Buses, Subway and Elevated Roads 4

Sight Seeing Cars, .Sight Seeing Boats, Aeroplane Trips

over the City, Seeing the City from Bus Tops 6-9

What to See. Various trips suggested with routes 8

AVomen Travelling Alone 9

Hotels, Boarding Houses, Furnished Rooms, etc 11

Special Hotels for Women and other information about

Plotels in General 12

The Frick Collection of Art 12

The City Itself described in detail. Its Discovery, Rise and

Progress 17-29

We start a tour through New York beginning at the Custom
House where the City began (1620) by the erection of
Fort Amsterdam, and proceed uptown in accordance

with its development 30

The Battery. The Statue of Liberty. The Aquarium, Gov-
ernors Island, Ellis Island, the Harbor and Shipping.
The famous Landing Stage at the Battery. •Distin-
guished visitors, from Lafaj-ette to Joffre and the

Prince of Wales, received here 30-40

West Street, the "Meal Ticket" of New York, and its enor-
mous shipping 47

Th-e Great Transatlantic Liners. The famous thousand-
feet docks — the Chelsea Improvement — owned by the
City 52-54

Where the Dough Boys left for France, and returned. The

great Government Docks at Hoboken 53

East River Shipping and the great Fish Market at Fulton

Street 55

Huge Army Supply Base and the great Bush Terminal

Docks in Brooklyn 53

Old Broadway. The pride of New York and the Main Street
in our Village. From the Custom House to Wall
Street 61

Bowling Green, the Standard Oil Building, the Steel Cor-
poration's offices. Trinity Church and its famous Dead. 61-69

III

Pa. ere
The First Skyscraper 70

Out of the Ordinary Eating- Places 75_8i

Cabarets, Tea-Dansants, etc 82

Wall Street and the Financial District 84

The Stock Market, the Cotton, Wheat and Produce Ex-

''^^^Ses : S4_^20

The Sub-Treasury. Where Washington was Inaugurated. 89

Famous Banks and Bankers 9996

Old Wall Street ''.'.'.' '.'.9e-^S

Fraunce's Tavern, where Washington took -leave of his

^ffl^^^^s .04_^Q7

The famous "Curb" Market and others 108

The Broad Street Hospital and Seaman's Institute 116

Our Civic Centre, City Hall, Municipal Building, etc. . .122-132
Woolworth Building, St. Paul's, Newspaper Row, The Post
Office, Hall of Records. The famous City Prison called

the Tombs 1*22-132

Our Old City Hall and its historic possessions 134

The Liberty Pole in City Hall in Revolutionary Days 145

To be Erected Again as a War Memorial 147-151

Broadway, North to 42nd Street 153

Map showing the Region just described 155

The Great East Side, Home of the Russians, Italians,
Greeks, Swedes, Turks, Hunks, Bulgars, Austrians, Ar-
menians, Slavs and Irish. Chinatown and the "Black

Belt." The famous Ghetto 157-168

The Bowery. Its Romance and History. Greatly changed. 169-174
Old St. Mark's Church. Old time dives. Bull's Head Tav-
ern. The old Bowery Theatre. Old Milestones. Cooper
Union 171-174

Roosevelt's Grave at Oyster Bay 177

Big Ideas in Little Places. Original shops with original
goods. Winifred Holt's "Lighthouse" and its wonder-
ful basket-ware. The idea of personal service 178

Greenwich Village— the Bohemian quarter of New York.
Its short-haired women and long-haired men. One of
our most talked-of possessions. Its quaintness, etc. 181

From Chambers Street to 14th Street 185

Page
Another map showing the territory between Chambers

Street and Greenwich Village 186

From 14th Street to 59th. Chelsea Village, where the "Night

Before Christmas" was written. St. Peter's Church... 187

Jim Fiske, Ed Stokes and Josie Mansfield 188

The Paulist Fathers. The Vanderbilt Clinic 1S9

Gramercy Park and the Players Club 1 SI

Where Roosevelt was born 191

Fifth Avenue, the Pride of New York 193-265

Parades on the Avenue during the Great War. Over. Sixty
Views are shown, forming the most complete souvenir
of these events yet gathered together in one article.

Begins on page 194

The famous Hippodrome Show House 258

Bryant Park. "The Little Church Around the Corner."
The Pageants of War on the Avenue. The Y. M. C. A.,
the Y. W. C. A., the K. of C, Jewish, Welfare, etc.. 261

Armistice Day in Fifth Avenue 26.3

Return of General Pershing and End of the War 264

Madison Avenue, Murray Hill, Grand Central Terminal,
Madison Square Garden and the Great Metropolitan

Tower and Clock 265-269

Forty- Second Street and the great Biltmore group of

Hotels. Pershing Square and proposed Victory Hall. 270-276

Map showing third section just visited 277

The Great White Way. Theatres, Movies, Cabarets, Res-
taurants and the Night Life 279-283

Map of the fourth section 2S4

Our Wonderful Public Parks. The Bronx, Van Cortlandt,
Pelham Bay, Interstate, Bear Mountain, The Zoo, the
Botanical Garden and the great Central Park beginning

at 59th Street

286

The Upper West Side, Riverside Drive— The Hudson River 295

Map of Upper Section of New York 303

Washington's Headquarters, the Roger Morris House 304

Pershing Square Hotel Group. Biltmore; Commodore, Bel-
mont, Manhattan, New Murray Hill 305

Map of City North from Columbia University 311

The Cathedral of St. John the Divine, Morningside Heights,

and the Residence of Bishop Burch 313

Columbia University — Page

General View 314

St. Paul's Chapel 315

Low Library 317

School of Mines 317

College of the City of New York 319

New York University Hall of Fame 319

The Lewisohn Stadium 320

Map of Fort Washington Section of New York 322

Metropolitan Museum of Art 323

The Hispanic Museum 325-326-330

Museum of Natural History 326

New York Historical Society 32S

American Geographical Society 325

American Indian Museum, Heye Foundation 325

The Numismatic Society 325

Our Wonderful Public Schools 334

The well-known Polo Grounds where the Giants play 336

Coney Island. On the Beach 33S

Nearby attractions of Sea, Mountain and PJver reached in

a day and return 340-342

Where Prominent Persons Live — Who's Who in New

York 346-350

John McE. Bowman of the famous Pershing Square Hotel

Group 371

Our Big Money Institutions. Enormous Banking. Power

of New York "353

Curious Book — Valentine's Manual — About old New York. 353

Interesting Details About the Great City 356

Some simple Don'ts for Travellers 359

Map of the end of the City at In wood Heights 361

General Information 362

Principal Theatres, etc 3G4

Brooklyn and other Boroughs 367

BESIDES
over ONE HUNDRED and SIXTY Views of the City covering every
section and made recently for this Guide.

FOREWORD

**I PRAY YOU LET US SATISFY OUR EYES

WITH THE MEMORIALS AND THE THINGS OF FAME

THAT DO RENOWN THIS CITY."

Shakespeare.

A/TANY, many years ago our city. rejoiced in a series
of Guide Books of exquisite taste and scholarly
attainment. For even in those days travellers from far-
away lands were constantly within her hospitable gates.
She was the belle of the New World and her admirers
were legion. "New York is a beautiful city/' writes
one, "and the grateful shade of the trees on Broadway
is delightful."

Some of these books had dainty little steel engravings
portraying our principal buildings — City Hall, The Bat-
tery, Castle Garden, etc., and were generally written by
"A Gentleman Residing in the City." Though small in
size they were bravely finished with cloth covers and
gilt tops. Today these diminutive volumes are the idol
of the collector and the despair of the dealer.

As a lover of New York it has seemed to me that
something in the line of these half-forgotten Guide
Books was due this old city of ours.

The little homes of red brick and dormer windows
have long ago disappeared. The days of lavender and
old lace seem never to have been, in this city of Sub-

VII

ways and Skyscrapers. Perhaps a Guide Book should
be all figures and numbers and maps. Yet I fain would
revive the loving personal touch of "the gentleman who
resided in the city." How successful the attempt is,
courteous reader, I shall leave you to decide.

A work of this kind is naturally the product of many
minds. I have occasionally quoted from fugitive items
in our daily papers, notably the Sun, World, Evening
Post, Evening Sun and Tribune. My lecture on Old
New York has also been drawn upon. If I have failed
in every instance to credit the source of information I
do so of necessity, and cheerfully make this acknowledg-
ment. The City History Club; Mr. A. J. Wall, the
learned assistant librarian of the New York Historical
Society, and Mr. Sturges S. Dunham, a member of the
bar, are entitled to special mention.

Corrections and additions to this Guide are cordially
invited. A perfect Guide is the product of evolution and
cannot be made at the first attempt ; and its improvement
to a great extent lies in the cooperation of the public.

The Author.

VIII

The very first view of New York ever shown to the world.
Courtesy N. Y. Historical Society.

About 1642.

How TO See the City Inexpensively

npHERE is no other city in the world in which it is
■■■ so easy to get around^ as New York. If you will get
the points of the compass fixed in your mind at the
start, it will help you greatly. Standing in front of
the Library on Fifth i\venue, at 42nd Street, and looking
toward Madison Square you face South; your back is to
the North. On your right is West, and on the left is
East. Traffic police are stationed at congested points.
Stop until they signal you to cross. The ninety-four on
horseback and the five hundred and nineteen on foot are
out in all weathers, quick to see the movements of every
kind of vehicle and alert to adjust every condition that
arises to facilitate the travel of foot passengers as well
as the saving of time of cars and carriages and all kinds
of wagons on wheels.

The woman in the car and the man on foot must exer-
cise patience when held up at certain hours of the morn-
ing and evening by the over-rush of automobiles or of
people hurrying to work or to their homes.

Almost every location in New York is either "Up-
town" or "Downtown," Occasionally you hear "Cross-
town" but not often. There is no actual dividing line
between up and downtown. If you go South you are
going downtown; if North, uptown. Between East and
West the case is different. Broadway to 23rd Street
and from 23rd Street up Fifth Avenue, is the popular
dividing line. To be technically exact, Broadway to
7th Street and Fifth Avenue up from 8th Street, is the
map division. All streets are East or West, as they hap-
pen to lie on the right or left of this line. It is against
the law to cross a street in the middle of a block. Use
regular crossings only.

No city excels us in the frequency or rapidity of our
local transportation. We have surface cars on almost
every thoroughfare; a Subway and Elevated System on
the West Side and the same on the East. At 42nd Street
there is a short line on which passengers may change
from the East Side to the West, or vice versa, and con-
tinue their journey without extra fare. There is also
a Subway line on Broadway to which you can also trans-
fer from the same connecting line. Other Subway
trains, using these same tunnels, take you to Brooklyn,
Long Island City and all the little towns in Brooklyn,
as far as Coney Island. The fare to the latter point
is only 10 cents and the time about 40 minutes. On
each Elevated and Subway station there is a colored
map showing the different stations on the route you
are going to take. Consult those maps for the station
you Mdsh to get off at or ask the guard on the train.
He always calls out the name of the next station as
the car approaches. Stations are about six blocks apart

The house where Theodore Roosevelt was born — No. 28
Twentieth Street. To be restored and kept as a
memorial of the Great American

East

in local trains and a mile and a half on Expresses. All

subway entrances on the street are plainly marked "Up-
town" or "Downtown."

There are separate tracks for Express and Local
trains on the Subways, so look for the sign which points
to the different tracks. Except on the Sixth Avenue
Elevated, the same system applies to the Third and
Ninth Avenues. Avoid travel between 7.00 and 9.30
A. M. and between 4.30 and 6.30 P. M. These are the
rush hours when the trains are packed to the limit.

In all probability the average visitor who does not in-
tend to go outside of New York will use one of the two
main Subway lines — the East or the West. They prac-
tically cover every foot of the entire island and will
get you anywhere. Assuming therefore that you are
staying in the hotel section, you will find the West Side
Subway the most convenient if you are located West of
Fifth Avenue; and the East Side Subway if you are
East of the Avenue. The group of hotels adjoining the
Grand Central Terminal are directly in touch with both
systems, as the connecting railway runs past their en-
trance on 42nd Street. Trains run on about a two min-
ute schedule.

The street cars stop only at corners and never in the
middle of the block; downtown corners going up, and
uptown corners coming down. The Fifth Avenue buses
stop on the far side. Bus fare is 10 cents.

Taxis have succeeded hackmen. Charge per mile reg-
ulated by the city. Inside each taxi the rate card is
prominently displayed. Each cab carries a meter which
counts the mileage. There is no chance for argument
with the driver, as the charge must agree with the dis-
tance travelled as shown by the meter. In case of dis-
pute, order the driver to take you to the nearest police
station.

"LET US HAVE PEACE"
Grant'sMonument on Riverside Drive at 122nd Street
American Studios

Four great bridges also connect with Brooklyn. They
aiFord fine views and are worth a visit. But the under-
ground is much better if you need to save time. Ferries
still ply between the city and its neighbors^ but they
are seldom used for passenger traffic, except in the case
of Staten Island and one or two other instances not likely
to be used by the tourist.

A popular and much more comfortable way to see the
city is by means of one of the numerous sightseeing
buses. This has grown to be quite a business.

There are several companies with starting points at
convenient places, and the points of interest they have
selected are the result of close acquaintance with the
city. The cost is from one to two dollars.

Your hotel clerk can tell you the nearest one to take
or consult the list at the back of this book. They have
intelligent lecturers, who describe the different points
as they go along, which adds much to the interest of the
trip.

There are two routes generally selected — one through
the low^er part of the city below 23rd Street, and the
other north, or uptown. That through the lower part
of the city gives a comprehensive view from Madison
Square down Fifth Avenue and Broadway to Bowling
Green, from which point a fine view is had of the Bay,
the Statue of Liberty, the Aquarium, and the Battery.
The financial district. Stock Exchange, the Bowery,
Chinatown, the Italian and Hebrew quarters and Brook-
lyn Bridge are seen on the way. The lecturer will call
out the different buildings as the car rolls along, giving
a brief history of each, which adds much to the interest
of the trip.

There is also a trip around Manhattan Island by the
sight-seeing yachts Observation and Tourist, which is of
extreme interest and well worth making. The boats start

from Battery Park Pier at 10.30 A. M. and 2.30 P. M.
daily, from May 1st to November 1st. They sail up
the East River, around the island, through the Harlem
Ship Canal, down the Hudson, past the Palisades, Fort
Washington, Grant's Tomb and Riverside Park, reveal-
ing an unexpected number of interesting features of
the shipping and commerce of New York as well as the
gigantic Atlantic liners.

Another trip starts from the above-mentioned pier at
1.15 P. M. daily^ going down the Bay to Staten Island,
past the Quarantine Station, Forts Hamilton, Wads-
worth and Lafayette, through the Narrows to the Lower
Bay, past Sandy Hook Lightship and Fort Hancock.
The yacht rounds the Sandy Hook Lightship (25 miles
from Battery Pier), presenting an unequalled view of
the entrance to New York Harbor. On the way back
to the city a good view is given of famous Coney Island,
Brighton and Manhattan beaches. As in the case of
the motor buses, here again the lecturer adds greatly
to the interest of the trip by his intelligent descriptions.

The very latest and up-to-the-minute method of See-
ing New York is undoubtedly by the new hourly Aero-
plane route. For a genuine thrill, this is highly recom-
mended to the tourist in New York. Elsewhere in these
pages we have shown a photograph of this Limousine
Airboat and call attention to its luxurious appointments.
Do not miss this very novel experience. It does not fly
in Winter. Fifty mile flight, hourly service, weather
permitting. Comfort and safety considered first. $50
per passenger.

Women Travelling Alone.

Notwithstanding the lurid posters that dot the country
landscape depicting the perils of the beautiful girl alone
in our great city, it still remains a fact that New York
is the best village in the Union for women travelling

Statue of Nathan Hale in City Hall Park. "I regret that I have

but one life to give for my country"
© Brown Bros.

alone. And there is absolutely nv, comparison in this
respect between it and Continental cities.

New York is not perfect, but any woman who encount-
ers unpleasant situations in our city has, to a very large
extent, her own self to blame for it. Nevertheless, a
certain amount of caution is necessary ; common sense
is still a valuable possession and should not be left at
home while travelling. Experience shows that two women
together are practically immune from embarrassing expe-
riences, while the solitary visitor is more exposed, espec-
ially if the hour is late and you happen to be in certain
localities.

Abundant protection is afforded the lone young woman
on every hand. Almost immediately upon arrival repre-
sentatives of the Travellers' Aid Society will direct her
to a suitable and respectable hotel or boarding house.
In spite of all these precautions, however, some sad hap-
penings are matters of frequent record, most of which
are mainly preventable. A very good rule is to pursue
about the same line of conduct you would at home. You
do not permit strangers to become familiar, and when
yoa want information j^ou ask a policeman. Do the same
here. It is useless to provide bureaus of information,
uniformed attendants and other conveniences if the
stranger will calmly ignore them.

Special Hotels for Women.

It is not enough to pick out a hotel in advance by
name only. You must also know the exact street num-
ber. There are frequently two places of the same name
or very similar, but of an entirely different character.
Also some hotels do not care to receive women unescorted
at a late hour unless reservation has been made in ad-
vance. None of the first-class hotels in the vicinity of
the Grand Central or Pennsylvania Terminals would
think of such a discourtesy, and one of them has an
entire floor reserved exclusively for women. The Martha

Washington is wholly patronized by women and is open
all night. This is the one hotel which was especially
built and is meant for women exclusively. Men cannot
stop here nor visit above the first floor.

New York has 140 hotels of the first class_, with 50,000
rooms for guests. They represent an investment of
$300,000,000 and employ 75,000 persons. There are as
many ^jiore smaller hotels. The oldest is Fraunces'
Tavern, at Broad and Pearl Streets, opened in 1762.
The newest are the Pennsylvania and the Commodore,
opened in 1919, with more than 4,000 guest rooms. The
Commodore has served an entire regiment of 3,000 men
in one room. At the same time 4,000 other guests were
being served in the various restaurants and dining rooms
of the hotel. The Biltmore, with 1,000 rooms and many
restaurants, serves more than 2,000,000 meals a year,
and uses nearly 600 tons of meat and poultry, 2,500 bar-
rels of flour, and all the milk that 300 cows furnish.

There are other accommodations at all sorts of prices,
and if the length of your stay is at all dependent upon
your pocketbook you can arrange accordingly. Very few
hotels include meals with the price of the room. You
are expected to eat where you choose. This is much
the better, as you need not return to the hotel till -bed-
time, if you so desire. You are very apt to be quite
a distance from it at luncheon, for instance, and the
time lost returning would be considerable.

A room with bath in a good hotel centrally located
can be had from $3 to $4 a day. Without bath $2.50
to $3.50. The hotels of international reputation, like
the Biltmore, Waldorf, Commodore, Astor, etc., are about
double those figures for an ordinary room; but, of course,
there is practically no limit to what you may pay for
a special suite. Dining at these hotels is on an equally
expensive scale ; but the service is good, the surroundings

•A CATHEDRAL OF COMMERCE"

The famous Woolworth Building on Broadway just south of
City Hall Park.
B'wav Park Place Co.

are enjoyable^ the music and dancing very entertaining.
All this adds to the expense of the food, and your share
is included in the check which is handed you at the con-
clusion of your repast.

Life in these wonderful hotels is as much a source
of amusement as any other attraction in New York,
and to those to whom it is unfamiliar the indulgence is
well worth the cost. It certainly permits a glimpse of
cosmopolitan New York at its best, and to many persons
is far more interesting than the average theatre.

But you can hire a furnished room in a good neigh-
borhood for about $10 a week, dine at a cafeteria, or any
one of a hundred good reasonably priced restaurants,
and then walk through the big hotels afterwards. You
can even go into the writing room and send a letter
home on the hotel's richly crested stationery if you wish,
and no one will object. You can also buy a two-cent
stamp for two cents, but a two-cent evening paper will
cost you three cents, so watch your step.

Yet there is no necessity for reckless extravagance
simply because you happen to be in New York. There
are lots of other people here, too, and they live in it
all the time, and manage to get along quite com-
fortable on moderate incomes. Taxis, while comfort-
able, are not absolutely necessary. The subway will
take you within a few blocks of anywhere, and the
fare is only a few cents, even if you ride to the end
of its fifteen miles. There is no city in the world where
transportation is so good, and between ten and four the
cars are not uncomfortably crowded. With a little care
the rush hours — between 7.30 and 9.30 A. M. and 4.30
to 7 in the evening — ran be avoided.

Another very delightful and inexpensive way of seeing
the city is from the top of a Fifth Avenue Bus. This
line traverses our most noted thoroughfare through its
busiest and most interesting length. The fare is ten

cents^ and is about the best ten cents' worth you will
get during your stay. The routes very in direction from
Millionaires' Row, east of Central Park, to Grant's
Tomb, on Riverside Drive and the upper part of the
city, which is worth seeing. It is a comfortable ride
and not a dull moment in it. Seeing New York from
a bus top is equally as popular as seeing London in
the same way.

THE FRICK COLLECTION.

Announcement has just been made that the valuable
Art collection made by the late Henry C. Frick has
been left to the city as a public museum.

This new museum is located on 5th Ave., between
72nd and 73rd Streets. At the present moment of
writing it cannot be definitely stated just when this
collection will be open to the public but reference to
the daily papers will supply the information.

THE CITY ITSELF

T EGALLY speaking, the City of New Yorii consists
^-^ of five separate Boroughs. What was formerly
known as New York is now called the Borough of Man-
hattan. It occupies the whole of Manhattan Island. The
average person speaking of New York has in mind this
particular place. He doesn't even know that it is a
Borough and cares less. To him it has always been
New York and always will be.

The Island lies at the mouth of the Hudson River
and is about two miles wide at its widest part and
about thirteen long. It contains a little more than
22,000 acres. Including, however, the adjoining Bor-
oughs, the size of Greater New York is about 327 square
miles. The total assessed valuation of real estate is
$8,271,157,608.

The population (1920) is very close to six millions.
It seems to increase at the rate of about a hundred and
fifty thousand a year. The vast number of returning
soldiers and their friends have greatly added to the
transient population and though the city has more and
larger hotels than any other in the world, it has of late
found increasing difficulty in caring for its visitors. Even
in normal times it is estimated that a hundred thousand
strangers are within its hospitable gates every night.

No city in the world rivals New York in the magni-
tude and rapidity of its growth. It costs over five hun-

dred and forty-three millions to run INew York, as
against two hundred and twenty millions to run Chicago
and only seventy-six millions to run Philadelphia. Pub-
lic schools alone cost over eighty-seven millions.

In an international sense, it has also grown greatly
since the war. Its imports and exports have increased
tremendously; there is no comparison between today's
figures and those of 1914. In a financial sense it shows
corresponding growth. In this one particular it is now
perhaps the most important city in the world. London
is still great and so is Paris. But the huge expenditures
for the late war, the immense loans raised by our own
and Allied Governments were largely financed in New
York and this will for some time to come make New
York a tremendous factor in the world's affairs.

In the case of a man grown suddenly great, every
little scrap of information regarding his early life is
eagerly sought for and treasured. Every detail, no mat-
ter how trifling, is of absorbing interest. And so it is
with a city. New York, being so young and yet so
old, is a fruitful topic for the man in the street, as
well as the antiquarian. For you who visit the metrop-
olis for the first time, nothing can be amiss that will
add to your knowledge of the city and to a better
understanding of its origin, its rise and its progress.
In the pages which follow, therefore, an attempt has
been made to set forth some of its most important char-
acteristics and to exjDlain^ if possible, the fascination it
possesses for so many different types of people, and its
all embracing popularity.

"That New York has accepted without protest her
role as Siren City cannot be denied," remarks Harrison
J. Rhodes. "Indeed, she rather expects waiters and dram-
atists to portray the dangers which lurk within her bosom
for the pure young men and women from the country.
Boston and Philadelphia are not free from evil, Heaven

I%8fe

B?y«M;'MlfcWflf

w^^^^

Beginning of New York's Street Cleaning Department. Calling
the roll, 1868

This shows the great improvements, made by Colonel Waring as
Street Commissioner. Calling the roll in 1920

knows, but there is something faintly ridiculous in the
idea of their luring a man to destruction." And so the
great mass of literature produced outside of the city
for rural consumption must necessarily feature this jDhase
of city life or be forever eschewed by its bucolic con-
stituency.

Nevertheless, there is so much that is attractive, so
much that is uplifting and inspiring, that it is a mat-
ter of regret to the real New Yorker that such raisin-
formation and drivel is so generally distributed. There
is also much, no doubt, over which a veil could be drawn.
But that is inevitable in a city so large. The unbiased
chronicler of Manhattan, nevertheless, has a vast store-
house of facts from which to draw, and needs no help
from his imagination.

Its Discovery

"He was born — no one knows where or when. He
died — no one knows when or how. He comes into our
view on the quarterdeck of a little shallop of scarcely
ninety tons burden. He goes out of it in a crazy boat
manned by seven sick sailors, cast adrift in the Arctic
seas to perish miserably, the victim of a cruel mutiny."

So writes one historian of Henry Hudson, whose
name is first identified with New York. He appears
to have vanished into nothingness when his great work
was done. Even his likeness and autograph are not
generally believed to be genuine. No one knows his
age at the time he made his discoveries. That he was
of mature years is shown by his having an eighteen-
year-old son. But whether he was a hale mariner of
forty or a grizzled veteran of seventy, has never been
guessed.

For his perilous journey, in the frailest of frail crafts,
Hudson received the munificent sum of $320. In case
he never came back the directors of the company agreed
to paj^ his widow a further sum of $8Q in cash.

Pastoral scene of the extreme north end of Manhattan Island,
Inwood Heights

Anything but a pastoral scene — the extreme southern end of the
same island

"Hudson/' John Fiske tells us, "was a notable in-
stance of the irony of human destiny. In all that he
attempted he failed; yet he achieved great results that
were not contemplated in his original plans. He started
two immense industries — the Spitzenbergen whale fish-
eries and the Hudson Bay fur trade, now the world
renowned Hudson's Bay Company; and he brought the
Dutch to Manhattan Island. No realization of his
dreams, however, could have approached the astonish-
ing reality which would have greeted him could he have
looked through the coming centuries and caught a glimpse
of what the voyager now beholds in sailing up the bay
of New York.

"But what perhaps would have surprised him most
of all would have been to learn that his name was*to
become part of the folk lore of the beautiful river to
which it is attached; that he was to figure as a Dutch-
man instead of an Englishman in both legend and story;
that when it is thunder weather in the Catskills, children
would say it is "Hendrik Hudson" playing at skittles
with his goblin crew. Perhaps it is not an unkindly fate.
Even as Milton wished for his dead friend Lycidas that
he might become the genius of the shore, so the memory
of the great Arctic navigator will remain a familiar
presence among the hillsides which the gentle fancy of
Washington Irving has clothed with undying romance."

In one important respect our city has been particu-
larly fortunate. The records of its early days are singu-
larly full and complete. This applies not only to its
documentary records, but also and more particularly, to
its pictorial records. It is an inestimable privilege to
know that what we see is an exact and contemporary
drawing of what our city looked like at that time. In
one respect at least its original settlement by a private
corporation was of exceeding value from an historic
point of view. The Dutch West India Company, under

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whose charter the elty was established, left nothing to
the discretion of its subordinates. Minute instrueUons
eoneernmg the most trivial details were received bv
every packet ship. Full directions regardingthe con-
struction of the first fort and the loca^tion o{ the sur-
rounding houses accompanied Peter Minuit, the fir t
Governor General, on his voyage of settlement.

Ihe island was purchased from the Indians in 1626
for some trinkets, valued at $24, and Fort Amsterdam

IZnTT^"" r' '''' "' ">^ l~t Custom Hot"
facing Bowling Green. At this time the island ended
there. The streets to South Ferry and Battery Park have
since been added. The same is true of both the entIL
Kast and West sides of the downtown section Pearl

Certain popular errors of these earlv days have re
mained uncorrected. We call the Hudso.rR' er the
North River, although every one knows that it lies di

lork and Brooklyn is called the East River, although
.t IS not a river at all, but an arm of the sea Bofh
of these errors are inherited from the Dutch, who spoke
of Hudson s river as forming the north boundary of their
possessions of which the Delaware River marked the
south bou„dary-or South River, as they called it

The City of the Dutch.

to tte'citfoTthe n t'^" V "^^ '''''"' ^^--t -«-ly
CO tne city of the Dutch. New Street, a few steps from

Broadway, is particularly redolent of these craX dlZ

It was the last street opened in this vicinit; and aUhouS

The fine portico of St. Mark's Church, Eleventh Street and

Second Avenue. Governor Stuyvesant is buried

here, and also A. T. Stewart

At the hegmmng of things during the Dutch Occupa-
tion, the northern limit of this little hamlet, then on the
edge of a wilderness, was fixed at Wall Street; and for
half a century the settlement was hemmed in by a
wooden wall or palisade, which extended from river to
river. That's how the street got its name— Wall Street.
There was first a cattle guard built along this road
by felling trees and piling them, roots out, in a row
along the path. A few years later the inhabitants were
ordered by Stuyvesant to erect a substantial barrier in
place of the guard. This answered the same purpose
and in addition protected the settlers from the depreda-
tions of bears, wolves, foxes and other animals, but prin-
cipally against Indians and nearby settlers. The Dutch
were continually in danger of a quarrel with the English
on account of European politics, and feared an attack
at any time. This structure stood until about 1699,
when it was torn down. Meanwhile, it had confined the
growth of the city to a very small section and retarded
an orderly arrangement of streets. That is why the
city below Wall Street is so irregular and confusing.
Many of the streets follow the old cow paths. Yet the
visitor, with a soul for the past, would do well to begin
his pilgrimage in the footsteps of the first settlers. This
section contains the earliest pages of New York's history
and witnessed the little fur trading post become a hardy
pioneer city of almost twenty-five thousand inhabitants,
ere the dark days of the Revolution all but encompassed
its destruction.

Unlike other historic American cities. New York has
preserved few buildings erected prior to the Revolution,
a neglect which has since been keenly regretted. Con-
sequently, while there are many interesting locations in
the neighborhood below Wall Street, all of the original
buildings have disappeared, and the best we can offer
the tourist is a tablet placed on the site of some of

Music in the Mall, Central Park. Ten to fifteen thousand are
in the audience.
U. & U.

wLTlZT''"^^"'''' '•^'^''"■"g "*^ f°'-°'er building
C„ ton. H '••„ ^^■;^^'-"»Ple' in the corridor of thf

torfof th^.^T T ' ^' ^"""'^ " *^'''^' containing the his-

Wil I] .' "■" ','' '"''"P*'"" «^ ^'"■t Amsterdam.

With these few explanatory remarks we will now be-
gm our tour through New York, which we hope wm
enlighten and entertain our visitor. In order to present
the various sections consecutively and in the order of
their development, we shall start where the Dutch started

and recording its history as we proceed

Assuming that you are in the hotel district at 42nd

the Elevated, ,t doesn't matter which, and get ou at'
Bowling Green Station. Time, 12 minutes. ^

WHERE THE CITY BEGAN

Fort Amsterdam ; Battery Park ; the Custom House ;

THE Aquarium; Shipping; Statue of Liberty;

Governor's Island; Ellis Island; Etc.

/'^OMING out of the Subway you will find the great
^^ Federal Custom House where the Fort used to be.
Among other things in the old Fort was a small but
somewhat pretentious building called the "Governor's
House/' and a very small churchy used by the Dutch
in the morning and the English in the afternoon, called
the Church of St. Nicholas, or "Church in the Fort."
It was the mother of all the Collegiate Dutch Churches
in New York, and its direct descendant today is located
at Fifth Avenue and 29th Street, which is very proud
of its ancestry and calls attention to it by a large sign.
When the Fort was finally demolished (in 1790), the
-city erected a handsome building on this site, in which
to provide a residence for the President, as New York
was then the Capitol of the United States. But New
York suffered a grievous disappointment; the Gov-
ernment moved to Philadelphia and the "Government
House," as it was called, was used as a Custom House.
In 1812 it was demolished and the ground sold by the

city to private persons for three hundred thousand dol-
lars. Handsome houses then were built, and Bowling
Green (its new name,) became a very fashionable street.

Steamship Row.

These splendid houses were the wonder of their day.
In point of grandeur they far exceeded anything that
had yet appeared. They were occupied by families of
the first soeial importance. Stephen Whitney, inventor
of the famous cotton gin and counted the richest man
of his day, lived in the second house from Broadway;
Peter Remsen, John Guion, David Austin, Elisha Riggs
and Ferdinand. Suydam completed the sextette. At a
later date, Commodore Vanderbilt lived in the house at
the State Street corner. In spite of all their magnifi-
cence, however, these houses for the greater part of their
existence were without running water, gas or steam heat.
Open fireplaces furnished all the warmth obtainable.
The pump that supplied the water was still standing
late in the seventies on the southwest corner. Smoke
from the great fire of 1835 which prostrated the city,
ruined the draperies in these houses and tarnished the
silver.

During the Civil War the Battery was naturally the
scene of bustle and confusion early and late; and when
the park was used as a detention camp for Southern
prisoners the combination effectually destroyed the quiet
dignity of the neighborhood and its fall from social
grace was rapid and complete. In the late '60's, the
great Cunard Line moved its offices into one of these
abandoned houses, to be followed soon afterward by
all the other foreign steamship companies — the White
Star, Anchor, Inman, Guion, Transatlantique, Holland
and others, and the street became known the world
over as "Steamship Row." About 1900 the Government
finally decided to buy back the old location for the

Custom House^ which it did, paying three million dol-
lars for whaj had been sold for a tenth of that sum.
Nevertheless the land which belonged to the Government
in its very earliest days, three hundred years ago, has
now reverted to its original owner and probably will
never again be permitted to go out of its possession.

These foreign companies evident^ liked this pirt of
town and clung to it even after the demolition of the
"Row." The various offices filtered into the nearby
streets, where they are today — State Street, Battery
Place and lower Broadway. With the purchase of the
Washington Building at No. 1 Broadway by the Inter-
national Mercantile Marine Co. and the completion of
site at No. 25, to be largely occupied by the Cunard Line,
this vicinity may be safely regarded as the headquarters
of the Transatlantic trade for some years to come.

The magnificent statuary on the Custom House is the
work of the noted sculptor Daniel Chester French. They
represent the great trading nations of the world. During
the late war the statue of Germania was changed to
represent Belgium, so that no honor would be done to
a state guilty of sinking helpless merchant ships and
drowning women and children. The allegorical figures
represent the four great continents, Europe, Africa, Asia
and America. Inside the building are ten decorative
paintings of great excellence, depicting the old maritime
parts of the Seventeenth Century, including New Am-
sterdam (New York) and Fort Orange (Albany).

Leaving the Custom House, we come out upon Battery
Park.

I walked with my wife for an hour before dinner
at the Battery. What a beautiful spot it is! The
grounds are in fine order. The noble bay with the
opposite shores of Brooklyn and Staten Island,
vessels of every description, from the well-appointed
Liverpool packets to the little market craft, give
life and animation to a prospect unexcelled by
any city in the world. — Philip Hone, 1845.

The scene is just as entrancing now as it was then.
If anything^ it is even more interesting. The shipping
is more picturesque. There are new and stranger types
of ships. War ships, merchant ships, iron ships, steel
ships, wooden ships, air ships, and every known descrip-
tion of sailing craft dot the waters in every direction.
The bustle of the harbor; the saucy little tug hauling
huge strings of loaded barges; the arriving and depart-
ing liners; the ferries to Brooklyn, Staten Island, New
Jersey, excursions to Coney Island, Rockaway Beach,
the Highlands, superb million dollar private yachts,
launches and odds and ends of maritime life — all com-
bine to make a memorable scene and one never to be
forgotten.

Opposite the West side of the Custom House is a
rather interesting antique — the monument erected by the
city in 1818 to mark the South-west bastion of Fort
George. It disappeared in some mysterious manner,
probably during the filling in of the Battery in 1851.
At all events, it was unearthed during the excavations
for the subway, and was replaced near the sidewalk in
the grounds of the park in 1907.

After a stroll along the sea wall we enter a circular-
shaped building, one of the most popular in all New
York, the Aquarium. This is also one of our most im-
portant historical possessions and said to be one of the
best known single structures in the whole United States,
not even excepting the Statue of Liberty. It was for-
merly old Castle Garden and through its portals millions
of emigrants passed in the years gone by. That is
why it is so well known. All their descendants have
heard of it. It was originally built as a fort in 1812
and named after DeWitt Clinton, then Governor of the
State. It later became a place of entertainment. It
seated 8,000 persons. It is the Nation's great landing
place for distinguished foreign visitors. Lafayette came

Arrival of the Right Hon. Arthur Balfour, head of the British
Mission. Dock Commissioner R, A, C. Smith is on the left,
© U. & U. George T. Wilson on right.

here on his first visit to America in 1854; "Papa" JofFre,
that other beloved Frenchman; the Belgian king, Gen'l
Pershing and the Prince of Wales followed. Jenny
Lind sang here under P. T. Barnum. It is now under
the care of the New York Zoological Society, a private
organization, and used as an Aquarium. Its collection of
fishes, especially from nearby tropical waters, is won-
derful. Seals and sea lions are here, besides huge alli-
gators, turtles and all kinds of aquatic curiosities. It
is one of the most popular attractions in the city and
is visited every year by nearly two million persons^ See
tablets.

Leaving the Aquarium we turn to the left and see
the statue erected to Ericsson, the inventor of the Mon-
itor, and the man who consigned all unarmored ships at
once to the scrap heap by his wonderful idea. The
Monitor undoubtedly saved New York from bombard-
ment during the Civil War and Ericsson's fame is some-
thing of which New York is justly proud. No wholly
wooden ships were ever built by 'the great navies of
the world after the performance of the Monitor at
Hampton Roads.

A little further along is a statue of Verrazzano, an
Italian navigator, who visited New York Harbor in 1524,
and next to it a steel flag pole to mark a similar pole
standing near there when the British evacuated New
York. They greased the pole but left the British flag
flying. An American soldier, Van Arsdale, successfully
climbed the pole and lowered the flag before the British
departed and raised the Stars and Stripes in its place.
On every Evacuation Day since, a descendant of this
Van Arsdale hoists the American Flag on this pole at
sunrise. The present pole is a steel mast belonging
to the yacht Constitution, one of the preliminary defend-
ers of America's Cup.

The large building on the left is the Barge Office or

landing stage for immigrants from Ellis Island. The
ferry boat for Ellis Island also leaves here, which makes
an interesting side trip and affords an intimate glance
of the process through which all immigrants must pass
before reaching the "Melting Pot" proper. A short
distance from the barge office is the ferry which takes
you to the Statue of Liberty on Bedloe's Island. On
arrival at the island the visitor may ascend a staircase
inside of the statue and look out upon the harbor of
New York and the city from a point just below the
head. Both of these trips are well worth the short
time spent upon them.

State Street, facing the Battery, was in the early
years of the last century perhaps the most fashionable
and exclusive residential quarter of the city. Here lived
the Livingstons, Gracies, Lenoxes, Rogers, Coles, Lud-
lows, Mortons, Suydams, and other prominent New
York families. The building at No. 7, the Church of
Our Lady of the Rosary, is about the only one left in
its original condition. There are a few others, but
greatly altered. Most of them will also soon disappear.
It was a beautiful location, commanding superb marine
views, combined with the green lawn and handsome
shade trees of the park. The adjoining streets, Broad-
way, Greenwich and Washington, just off the Battery
on the north, were also residences of well-to-do families.
At one time Washington Irving lived at No. 16 Broad-
way, with his friend Henry Brevoort. He often strolled
up to the corner of Cortland Street to visit the Widow
Jane Renwick, whose son became afterwards a professor
at Columbia College. His son in turn become one of
the foremost architects in the city, chief among his works
being St. Patrick's Cathedral on Fifth Avenue and the
first of the Grand Central Stations — a marvel in its day.

The Municipal Ferry to Staten Island also leaves in
this immediate neighborhood at the foot of Whitehall

Street. This street was named for Stuyvesant's town
house, "White Hall." Washington also departed from
this point on his return to Annapolis (1783). Tablet
marks the site. If you can afford an hour to make the
run over and back, it is well worth the trouble. Boats
leave every twenty minutes and you may return on the
same ferry that takes you over. A good view of Gov-
ernor's Island, Fort Lafayette, Fort Hamilton, Fort
Schuyler and Castle William and the Narrows is thus
enjoyed. Numerous outgoing and incoming steamers
will be passed on the way. The famous Sailor's Snug
Harbar may be visited while at the island, and a splendid
view enjoyed of the Statute of Liberty on Bedloe's
Island.

Bedloe's Island was bought by the city from Captain
Kennedy as far back as 1758. It was ceded to the
Federal Government in 1800, who made it one of the
outer defenses of the city by erecting a small fort upon
it, known as Fort Wood. There is still the suggestion
of a fort in the star shaped walls which surround the
base of the Statue of Liberty, which, by the way, was
a gift from France in 1883. The pedestal of the statue
was erected by popular subscription.

Governor's Island, in sight of the Battery, is now
military headquarters for the Department of the East
and a special permit is required to visit the island. Old
"Castle Bill," as Castle William is called, is a huge
military prison. The island has a large aviation field,
besides other interesting features, and a very interesting
museum of war relics.

The three streets at the west, running north from the
Battery, are quite interesting; West Street, facing the
river, for its immense shipping; Washington Street for
its polyglot population, and Greenwich Street because
of its one time splendor. In fact, Greenwich Street in
1825 was called Millionaire's Row and had for residents

Bowling Green in front of the Custom House.

Battery Park. View of incoming liner. Whitehall Building
on right

A few members of the Bowling Green Neighborhood Association,
West Street near the Battery

such families as Brockholst Livingston, John Johnston,
James Lenox — the same type, in fact, as occupied ex-
clusive State Street. Many of these old Greenwich
Street buildings are still standing and this section is
today a very curious quarter of New York, inasmuch
as it remains a residential section with, however, a great
difference socially. From the Battery to Vesey Street
and from Greenwich to West Street there is a population
of about ten thousand. They are crowded into tene-
ments made out of old warehouses and former fashion-
able houses now fallen into decay. It is estimated tint
more than twenty-seven nationalities are represented.
The Irish used to dominate, but they have given way
to the Poles. Next come Syrians, then Greeks, Armen-
ians and peoples from Palestine and Mesopotamia. Quite
a business is carried on in needlework and some of the
lace work is quite interesting, and their merchandise is
sold wholesale and retail throughout the United States.
Some modern loft buildings have lately made their ap-
pearance, all tenanted by firms with unpronounceable
names. One enterprising dealer announces branch offices
in Athens, Pereus, Salonica, Bagdad, Cairo, Rhodes and
Alexandria — quite a brave showing for a little shop in
New York.

Naturally the presence of so many families brings
with it a corresponding number of children. Both the
children and the mothers have found a great friend in
the Bowling Green Neighborhood Association, an organ-
ization which has voluntarily taken up settlement work.
They have provided a playground, a little hall where
dances and social affairs can be had; a modest little
library; a babies' clinic and other desirable attributes.
The infant mortality, from an abnormally high rate, has
been reduced to correspond with the average of the city
at large, and in other ways the Neighborhood Associa-
tion has made for itself a warm spot in the heart of
these friendless foreigners.

The magnificent office building on Battery Place, just
west of Greenwich Street, is the Whitehall Building and
houses the Government Weather Bureau. In very hot
weather it is always very much cooler up in the tower
of this high building, where the temperature is recorded,
and the New Yorker sweltering on the parched side-
walks six hundred feet below, always adds ten degrees
to what the official figures report. The Whitehall Build-
ing is headquarters for shipping, export, coal and oil
businesses. Important firms are located here and on
the top floor is one of the numerous lunch clubs that
abound downtown. The view from the dining room win-
dows presents what is said to be the most perfect marine
picture to be found on the whole coast. On clear days
it is possible to see far beyond Long Branch on the
Jersey Coast and to Rockaway on the East. Incoming
liners can be seen hours before they arrive.

West Street which begins off Battery Park and skirts
the city, facing the Hudson, is the great shipping sec-
tion. It is one long succession of steamers, ships, piers,
docks and ferries. Thousands of wagons, motor trucks
and every description of moving vehicle are constantly
coming and going. A dimunitive street car traverses
practically the whole waterfront. Those interested in
shipping will find this mode of conveyance a good way
of viewing the scene. The car moves leisurely along
and stops frequently. You need plenty of time for a
trip on the Belt line, as interruptions are frequent and
congestion is so great. But this affords opportunity
for study and reflection and to jot down a few thoughts
on the Traffic of a Great City. New York is now one
of the great Ports in the world. Some say it is the
greatest, but London still leads slightly.

The section along West Street from about Chambers
Street to Desbrosses is known as "The Farm." It is
the receiving station for all our huge food supplies and

to accommodate the bulky merchandise the street lias
been widened an extra hundred feet. Here all the
Coast line steamships discharge their Southern produce
and the great railroads, tapping the rich farming states
adjacent to New York bring their huge contributions
to the breakfast table of the metropolis. Apples, po-
tatoes, garden truck by the thousands of barrels and
hundreds of tons, are received almost hourly. The man-
ner in which these goods disappear almost instantly is
a caution. They are sold right on the pier, moved out-
side to the "Farm" and then removed by their new
owners. The new style motor trucks carry off as much
as ten tons at a time and as the cars themselves weigh
six tons, some idea of the wear and tear on the streets
of New York is apparent.

But the most amazing thing of all is the tremendous
amount of goods continually arriving and departing.
Something over eight thousand men are engaged in the
work of handling alone. Everything is more or less
perishable and must be gotten out of the way at once.
No wonder a longshoremen's strike is so serious.

The Fruit Exchange is located in Franklin Street.
Here come all the fruits, foreign and domestic. One
can hardly realize that lemons in lots of twenty-five
thousand boxes are frequently disposed of in a few
moments. Who in the world has use for so many lemons
at one time? Oranges and grape fruit from Florida,
Porto Rico and California; apples from Oregon, pmes
from Hawaii, and the enormous products of the great
fruit ranches of the Pacific Coast, here find an outlet.
The New York market has an insatiable appetite. It
is seemingly a bottomless pit. Every nation in the
known world contributes. Cargoes arrive in endless
procession. All the fruit sales are by auction and for
cash. It is perhaps the last remaining business in which
the old custom of selling to the highest bidder still
prevails. And it is on a stupendous scale. Practically

the entire foreign fruit trade of the country is con-
ducted in the few blocks comprised in the "Farm" we
are looking at, with the exception of bananas. These
are brought in by the ships of the great White Fleet
ol the United Fruit Company and unloaded directly
onto lighters alongside the steamers at their docks, lo-
cated just a little south of the Farm, and from there
shipped direct to all parts of the country. Thousands
of bunches are handled daily.

Just beyond the "Farm" begins the famous old Ganse-
voort Market. There used to be a fort of the same name
here m olden days. It resembles closely Covent Gar-
den in London. All the Long Island farmers with their
garden truck piled way up high and covered with canvas
like a hay wagon, occupy one side of the square. They
sell direct to the green grocers who come from all parts
of the city. Across from the market gardeners are
the dealers in all kinds of Live Poultry: chickens, ducks,
geese, turkeys, guinea-hens, quail, partridge and every
conceivable kind of bird.

The New York Central tracks come in here from the
West and on their sidings stand the newly arrived re-
frigerating cars with dressed meats. Armour, Swift,
Hammond, Cudahy, Wilson and all the great packers
are represented. It is the great wholesale meat section
and supplies the mammoth hotels, butchers, delicatessen
shops, etc.

Leaving the market we come into the Chelsea Im-
provement Section, one of the most notable triumphs
of a municipality in the reclamation of a water front.
This was formerly a region of antiquated wooden piers,
dropping away piecemeal from sheer rottenness. The
old ISth Street dock in particular was to the New York
boy forty years ago what the old swimmin' hole is to
the country boy today. The head of that old dock is
now far inland. Delamater's old Iron Works were here
in those days and Ericsson, who lived on Beach Street,

nearby, superintended the building of his famous iron
clad Monitor at these yards. Holland bought his idea
for an undersea boat here also and the first practical
Submarine was launched from the same yard that pro-
duced the Iron Clad. Both these ideas revolutionized
naval architecture the world over, and to little old New
York belongs the credit of their origin.

Something of this prophetic vision appears to be in-
digenous to this neighborhood. When the project of
reclaiming this run down water front by a series of
docks of such immensity that private capital demurred
at the undertaking, perhaps the success of the Monitor
and the Submarine gave the authorities the needed cour-
age to embark on the enterprise as a municipal work.
Too much cannot be said of the success of what is now
known the world .over as the Chelsea Docks, head-
quarters of the great Transatlantic lines, White Star,
Cunard, American, etc. They are a thousand feet long.
Their massive concrete flooring resists all attempts at
wear and tear and will remain after the Appian Way is
forgotten. The architect of these docks has also recog-
nized the value of beauty in their construction. Mari-
time mythological figures ornament the exterior. The
lines of the buildings are impressive. It is somewhat
difficult to describe exactly the solid satisfaction which
perspective gives the beholder. Massiveness and
strength are blendefl with the refining influence of chas-
tity in design. The broad plazas in front, the generous
approaches .from the street, make this Improvement,
one of which the city can well afford to boast. Nor is
the beneficent result of this superior architecture con-
fined to the Docks themselves. The surrounding build-
inos are fast being brought into harmony with the digni-
fied lines of the Chelsea Improvement, the splendid

The great thousand-foot Chelsea piers on North River, ownei
by the City

West Side shipping centre. Looking up West Street fror

Battery Park
© American Studios

structures of the National Biscuit Company being a case
in point. The success of this experiment has been so
great that the city is extending the system between ^ith
and 59th Streets.

Directly opposite these dcoks, on the Hoboken side,
is the former home of the great North German Lloyd
and Hamburg- American lines. Their once proud fleets
now fly the American flag after the most ignominious
and contemptible surrender in the history of sea power.
These docks have witnessed many stirring scenes during
the last two years. Nearly four million American boys
sailed to and returned from France from this point
of embarkation. The property now belongs to the Fed-
eral Government.

On this side also are miles and miles of railroad cars
bearing another of the city's prime necessities — coal.
Trainload after trainload follows each other continu-
ously up a trestle to a towering coal heap containing
thousands of other tons and are emptied automatically.
This huge pile never seems to change. Notwithstand-
ing the constant additions by the never-ending line of
fresh supplies there is a counter eff'ect in the deliveries
to boats, lighters, etc., at the water edge which equalizes
things.

Resuming our interrupted walk, we come to the 23rd
Street Ferries just above the Chelsea docks. Most of
the boats are still running except the Pennsylvania.
Here you connect with the Central, Erie and Lacka-
wanna roads to Jersey City.

The passenger traffic, however, now goes by the Hud-
son Tubes, the ferries being mostly for vehicles. It
remains, nevertheless, an important transit point though
robbed of much of its former bustle and would hardly
be recognized by the old New Yorker who recalls the
days of its bygone <r\ory when it was one of the busiest
parts of town, especially in summer at week ends. Just
beyond 2Srd Street are more Atlantic steamships — the

Anchor Line, the Southern Pacific, the French and
Italian lines, the Pacific Mail and Panama Steamers;
the principal pier of the beautiful Albany Day Line
boats and the swift steamers to Atlantic Highlands,
Long Branch and Jersey Coast resorts.

Here ends that stretch of the marginal street called
West, paralleling the river called North, which isn't
north at all, as we have explained. Beyond this, the
street becomes Tenth Avenue. As if to recall its old
days as "the shore road to Greenwich," it meanders off
as all good shore roads do, into the heart of town, for-
saking the turmoil and commercialism of the waterfront.
It reappears, resplendent in new asphalt and handsome
architecture as Amsterdam Avenue — again reminiscent
of Colonial days — and makes a glorious exit in the
sanctity of the classic atmosphere of Columbia Uni-
versity and Cathedral Heights.

There is also considerable shipping on the opposite
shore of the city — the East River. This locality during
the reign of the clipper was a veritable forest of masts.
There are signs of a rejuvenation of American Merchant
Marine and perhaps before long we will again see the
white sails of ocean beauties and hear the song of the
Chanty man. The South American trade docks largely
in South Brooklyn, where an immense terminal develop-
ment called the Bush Stores has been in process of com-
pletion for several years. This now embraces miles and
miles of piers, all equipped with the most modern appli-
ances for the mechanical handling of freight. A lesson
from Europe has evidently been learned by the American
shipper and some of the ingenuity hitherto monopolized
by the ore handlers of the great lakes has finally been
adopted in the East. Huge factories are now located
on these docks and an immense saving of unnecessary
handling of freight is achieved. The old shipping quar-
ter of Brooklyn, which formerly began at Pierrepont

Stores, just below the "Heights" in the days of the
China tea trade, has gradually extended along the water-
front and forms an unbroken line till it meets the Bush
improvement, which we have just described. The South
American ships still favor this locality, as do the steam-
ers lor the Antipodes. From present indications there
will soon be great and far reaching developments in
everything pertaining to docks and ships. There is no
telling what the result will be when the Government
iinally announces its plans regarding its new ships, but
in any event. New York is bound to be greatly affected.

The Government has recently established an enor-
mous Army Supply Bnse in this section. It is on a
scale of magnitude never before approached. F.lse^-
where we give a picture of the splendid structure.

This maritime side of New York is very interesting.
On account of the congestion that usually exists on the
waterfront streets, the best way to see it is by a sail
around the island. There is a boat that makes this trip
twice daily — morning and afternoon. It leaves foot of
42nd Street at 10 A. M. and 2 P. M., and the cost is
.$2.00.

We will now retrace our steps to the Custom House
and proceed up Broadway.

The Adams Express Building at

Broadway.

THE MAIN STREET IN
OUR VILLAGE— BROADWAY

From Bowling Green to Wall Street and
Trinity Church

benedict arnold and the bowling green building. the

HOMES OF STANDARD OIL AND "sTEEL". THE MOST
FAMOUS CHURCH IN AMERICA.

VIT'E have now quite thoroughly explored Battery Park
* ^ and vicinity and will resume our tour up Broadway,
starting at Bowling Green in front of the Custom House.
It marks the beginning of the Main Street of our
village. This ancient Colonial Park was once the heart
of New Amsterdam and the resort of its leisure class
when bowling was the baseball of that day. It is popu-
larly believed that this is the exact site on which Peter
Minuit purchased Manhattan Island from the Indians.
It looms large in the history of these early days, being
first used as a parade ground and afterwards as the
weekly market place and annual fair. During the ses-
sions of the last named function all persons were ex-
empt from arrest for debt; so this celebration was highly
popular. In 1732 it was ordered to be fenced in by the
common council and was leased at one pepper-corn a
year to three citizens for a private bowling green, the
lease being renewed a second term for 20 shillings per
annum. It subsequently became our first public park.

The Stamp Act Riot centered here in 1765^ when Gover-
nor Colden's coach containing his effigy was burned. A
leaden statue of George III. on horesback, also erected
liere, was torn down during the Revolution and sent to
Gov. Wolcott of Litchfield^ Conn., whose wife and daugh-
ter melted it into 42^000 bullets for the patriots. The
tail and parts of the flank of the horse were spared, and
can be seen in the rooms of the New York Historical
Society. The iron fence around the green was made in
England and originally had iron crowns ornamenting the
posts. Most of these w^ere broken off during the Revolu-
tion. Washington reviewed the great Federal procession
to commemorate the ratification by New York State of the
Federal Constitution from this point in 1787. Conspic-
uous in the parade was a huge float drawn by six horses
carrying a replica of a S2-gun frigate named the Ship
of State, and made by the ship carpenters of New York.
In 1794 another riot occurred liere to protest against the
Jay treaty.; altogether Bowling Green has had quite a
busy existence. It is now for the time being, in repose.
There is an effective bronze statue of Abraham De Pey-
ster facing south, one of the original Dutch settlers who
was Mayor in 1691.

The Washington Building, No. 1 Broadway, stands on
the site which is notable in this city of frequent changes
for a record of stability rare in its annals. Since the
first grant of land was made of this plot of ground in
1643 to the present, only three buildings have stood upon
it; first a little Dutch tavern, much frequented by the
soldiers in the fort opposite ; then the Kennedy House,
1760-1882, and now the Washington Building — at one
time the tallest building in the city. It was from the
Kennedy House that Andre set out upon his ill-fated
journey to meet Arnold. As British Headquarters during
the Revolution it sheltered Clinton, Howe, Carlton and
others. It was never occupied by the Americans though

©u. & u.

Armistice Day on Broadway

Cyrus W. Field, projector of the Atlantic Cable, who
erected the building now standing, named it after Wash-
ington in the mistaken idea that he once made the old
house his headquarters. Robert Fulton died in a house
in the rear of this site. When New York was the capital,
this house was the residence of the Spanish Minister
Don Drego de Gardoqui. This gentleman evidently had
a unique experience with a New York crowd as the fol-
lowing item clipped from the New Yorh Gazette, 1786,
would indicate:

"The Spanish Ministser returns thanks to the
citizens for their alacrity in extinguishing the fire
that happened at his house. He observed many
persons of the first distinction actively employed and
although the doors were open to all and the house
filled wth people, none of his effects were missing;
everything carried out having been restored."

In later years it became a hotel. The building bids
fair to remain in its present condition for some time to
come.

The Bowling Green Building at No. 9, now owned by
the Goulds, is quite closely connected with a dramatic
incident of the Revolution.

After Arnold at Tarrytown had delivered to Major
Andre the papers that were to betray West Point into
the hands of the British, he repaired to the house of his
friend, Beverly Robinson nearby. There he met his
bride of a little more than a year, Peggy Chew, one of
the belles of Philadelphia. He had hardly embraced his
wife when Robinson entered with the exciting news that
a British spy had been captured, and that the plan of
the defenses of West Point had been found upon him.

Arnold aJone of the three knew what the fateful news
portended. With a face blanched with fear he made the
excuse of being obliged to return to look after the spy.
He clasped his wife in his arms, looked upon the face
of his sleeping baby for an instant, and was gone. He
never saw them again.

■v: --i'*^S|^^B

tj|g;:.:A|il||

^RiHhBHHI^hhIBI

p " '

Broadway looking north from the Guarantee Trust Building at
Liberty Street.

He escaped on the man-of-war Vulture and joined
the British in New York. It is at this point that the
Bowling Green Building comes in. He was quartered at
the King's Arms^ a tavern which formerly occupied this
site, and it was here that a daring plan was made by-
Sargent Champe of "Light Horse" Harry Lee's Dra-
goons. This intrepid soldier decided to join Arnold's
"American Legion" (?) as a deserter from the patriots.
He observed that Arnold walked in the gardens of the
Tavern every evening, and planned to kidnap him with
the help of confederates and make off before assistance
could arrive. Sudden orders compelled both Arnold and
Champe to proceed South before the evening agreed upon
and the attempt came to nothing. Champe finally suc-
ceeded in rejoining the American forces. It was a bold
attempt and worthy of a better fate. A beautiful stained
glass window by Edwin A. Abbey, representing the Dutch
playing ninepins is one of the sights of this building and
worth a visit.

Numbers 17 and 19 were once the British Consulate,
and here for a time lived Daniel Webster. At 21 and 27
stood the Steven's House, a noted hotel, where Jenny
Lind and P. T. Barnum stopped, besides other well
known personages.

And he stopped at an inn that is known very well,
"Delinonico's" once — now "Stevens Hotel";
And, to venture a pun which I think rather witty,
There's no better inn in that inn-famous city.

—J. G. Saxe.

It is now the site of the splendid offices of the Cunard
Steamship Co. It was originally the site of the first
Delmonico retaurant.

Almost directly across the street is that Holy of Holies,
the Standard Oil Building, at No. 26. Whole chapters
could be written about this one building, perhaps the
best known, certainly the most talked of, on Broadway.

'26 Broadway" — Home of the Great Standard Oil Company,

As a practical demonstration in the gentle art of making
money No. 26 Broadway is surely entitled to all the
plaudits it receives.

Notwithstanding the dislike of the family for public
notoriety, it remains a fact that young John D. frequent-
ly, in fact almost daily, weather permitting, drives to his
office in a light gig drawn by two spirited horses. He
seems to prefer it to a motor car. Nobody pays any at-
tention except to mention his name as he goes prancing
by.

At No. 39 is the site of McComb's Mansion, where
Washington lived in 1790, just before the removal of the
capital from New York to Philadelphia. A Tablet at
No. 41 Broadway marks the site of the first white men's
dwellings in Manhattan, built in 1613. They were
erected by Adrian Block, a Dutch explorer, and his crew,
who had reached the island, but whose ship the Tiger,
burned to the water's edge just off the Battery. Block
managed in some miraculous manner, from what little
material he saved from the Tiger, to construct another
vessel, the Onrest. This site, therefore, marks also the
beginning of ship building in New York, an industry
which later grew to imposing proportions.

At No. 52 Broadway, below Wall Street, stood until
recently a building of more than ordinary interest — ^the
first successful skyscraper erected in New York (1884).
It was only eight stories high, but will tower historically
higher than any building that will ever stand on the isl-
land; it demonstrated the feasibility of skeleton steel
construction and caused Manhattan to develop up into
the air instead of along the ground. The effect of this
invention has been truly remarkable. No other develop-
ment in the progress of New York begins to approach
it in the magnitude of the tremendous change it wrought,
and of the altered conditions it created. Buildings on

hundred foot lots now contain the population of a good
sized village, and at five o'clock a few blocks will give
forth enough residents for a good sized city.

Bradford Lee Gilbert, the architect whose genius gave
to New York and the world this remarkable type of
building, in telling the story to friends, said that the
idea of an iron building had come to him in a dream.
He is also remembered for his great interest in Jerry
McAuley's Mission, a famous rescue institution, the fore-
runner of the present Salvation Army. The history of
this wonderful mission forms the one bright chapter in
the sordid story of Water Street in the days when it was
the resort of sailors and the abode of unspeakable crime
and wretchedness.

When Jerry McAuley died in 1884 his wife determined
to carry on the work alone and for eight years served
as superintendent of the mission. Then her health failed
and for a time it seemed she must die. Bradford Lee
Gilbert married her at this time when her health was
poor and took care of her. After her marriage she and
Mr. Gilbert lived for a time at his country home on the
Beaverkill River in Sullivan County.

At No. 56 Broadway are statues by J. Massey Rhind
of Clinton, Wolf, Stuyvesant and Hudson, which are
of more than passing interest.

Morris Street marks the original public burying
ground of New York, and Exchange Place was formerly
Tin Pot Alley. It runs into Edgar Street, one of the
shortest streets in the City, where from the steps of the
Edgar Mansion on Greenwich Street, Daniel Webster
made an address to the people on the occasion of the
election of the first Mayor of New York, Cornelius Law-
rence. This marked an important political change and a
further extension of the peoples rights, as before this.
Mayors were appointed by the common council.

Broadway, looking north from Wall Street. Old Trinity in centre.

Just beyond Exchange Place and West of Broadway-
stood the land occupied by the West India Company as an
orchard and farm. Huge office buildings, owned and oc-
cupied by the two great Express Companies, Adams and
the American, are now on this site. The great Empire
Building, which extends from the corner of Broadway
along Rector to Church Street, now belongs to the United
States Steel Corporation, having been recently purchased
by them for office headquarters. It stands directly op-
posite Trinity Church and is, therefore, to enjoy good
light for all time. The price paid for the building and
land was $5,000,000, which is considerable money to pay
for a place in which merely to keep books and have ef-
ficiency conferences.

The next building is by far the most historic and in-
teresting edifice of a religious denomination in our city.

Trinity Church

Trinity is not only old in historic association, but its
monuments and memorials are of an unusually interesting
character. Beautiful stained-glass windows ornament
the interior, together with several memorial tablets, in-
cluding one to a party of Scotchmen who were ship-
wrecked off the coast of Sandy Hook in 1783.

The charpa of this church is not hard to understand.
In the midst of the city's roar it still stands quiet and
serene. It is a welcome relief to enter its hospitable
doors for a few moments respite from the strain of the
days work.

This memorable building as you will notice, stands
opposite the head of Wall Street. The present building
is the third to be erected (1846). The first (1696) was
destroyed in the great fire of 1776, the second (1789)
was declared unsafe (1839) and torn down. For more
than two hundred years the spire of Trinity was the most
noted landmark in the city of New York. For many

years visitors were allowed to climb the many steps up
its steeple, and their energy was well rewarded by the
magnificent view of the city and harbor spread out before
their eyes.

To-day it is hard to find the steeple, so closely is it
guarded by the surrounding skyscrapers, and it barely
reaches to half the height of the buildings directly
around it. It is about one-third the height of the Wool-
worth Building, a few blocks north of it on Broadway.
Trinity Church has played a great part in the social and
religious life of our city, and enjoys a large place in the
affections of the people. Many persons wonder why
Washington selected St. Paul's Chapel instead of the
much more noted parent church for his devotional at-
tendance, forgetting that during Washington's residence
in New York Trinity was still in ruins and was not re-
built till after his departure.

The first objects of interest which attract the visitor
are the three pairs of memorial doors in bronze with the
allegorical figures in bold relief. They are at the front,
North and South entrances. They are the gift of Wil-
liam Waldorf Astor in memory of his father, John Jacob
Astor, 2nd.

In the centre of the North half of the cemetery stands
a beautiful marble church yard cross, another Astor
memorial, given by Caroline Astor Wilson, in memory of
her mother, Mrs. William Astor. The panels illustrate
the life of Christ according to St. Luke.

Entering the church yard directly from Broadway
we stand in front of the monument erected to that gallant
sailor. Captain James Lawrence, of "Don't give up the
ship" fame. On the south side directly opposite is the
monument of the Martyrs of the Revolution — those who
died in prisons. Facing Rector Street is the memorial
to Robert Fulton, who is buried beneath in the Livingston
family vault, and near him is that of William Bradford,

the first printer in New York. The pathetic story of
Charlotte Temple is recalled by the beautiful monument
to her memory, as is also the tragic death of Alexander
Hamilton by his imposing cenotaph. The grave of M.
L. Davis, Aaron Burr's second in the duel, is also here.
Marinus Willett, General Phil Kearney, Samuel John-
son, president of King's College (now Columbia) ; Albert
Gallatin, Augustus Van Home, Sidney Breese, Lady
Cornbury, Sir William Alexander, Earl of Stirling; Gen-
eral Clarkson, Rev. Dr. Barclay, the second of Trinity's
rectors; the Laights, Bronsons, Ogdens, Lispenards,
Bleeckers, Livingstons, Apthorps, Hoffmans, to mention
only a few, all suggest prominent families still living in
the city and whose members maintain the social im-
portance of their forebears.

Facing Broadway is a memorial drinking fountain, the
gift of Henry C. Swords in memory of his mother.

The sexton, Mr. William J. Boyd, is splendidly en-
thusiastic about old Trinity, and can tell you of many
things which lack of space prevents a mention here.

We are now opposite Wall Street. We shall start our
trip through the financial district at this point, crossing
Broadway, going down Wall Street to the River on the
North side and returning on the South.

But first let us refresh ourselves with a little lunch.
And with that end in view we will hunt up some unusual
eating place for the sake of novelty.

THE INNER MAN

Out of the Ordinary Eating Places in New York

T^HE tourist no doubt would like to see some of the
-■■ real foreign places. As a matter of fact, the best of
these are on the lower East Side on Second Avenue,
between 1st and 14th Streets.

A great many of the emigrants from Russia and
Rumania, even after years of alienation, have an intense
craving for the dishes of their native province. It is,
therefore, the practice of one of the inhabitants of a
particular province to convert her front parlor (usually
located on the ground floor of a tenement) into a minia-
ture dining room, where she caters to a limited number
of her home town folk. Her shingle announces the name
of her province, such as "Pinsker," "Dwinsker," "Mnis-
ker," "Saraslover," "Bialystokter," etc., as the case may
be. Here the aliens meet their friends from the Old
Country and lose their homesickness in the midst of
familiar faces and dialects and in the odors from the
kitchen, which evoke for them images of their home and
surroundings.

Near by are the famous Bohemian cafes, crowded
every night to dawn with Yiddish artists, musicians,
actors and litterateurs, all industriously and vehemently
engaged in gesticulating and creating a sophisticated
hubbub. These places are more like clubs, because the
patrons are all habitues and known to each other. The
cafes have added a Parisian touch with their open-air
dining, and the guests lend an air of cosmopolitanism
with their conversations and faces.

Underbill
Stone Street, the first street in our city to be paved with stonet.

Around the corner, in a wide street,, are a group of
Italian spaghetti houses, where the serpentine food rules
in all its tortuous forms and draws the innocent and
unwary diner into its maze of intricacies.

Further down is an Hungarian restaurant, serving its
native menu in all its dressings and odors, and, cheek by
jowl, is a Rumanian "casino," displaying its bill of fare
au naturel — an array of uncooked dishes in a showcase
in the window — to tempt the eyes and snare the stomach
of the passersby. Here, too, the steaks are broiled and
served, bloody and hot, right off the grill, on circular
wooden platters.

In the upper reaches of this section are the French
pastry parlors, which cater to the elite of the younger
set. The sumptuous surroundings of thick green carpets,
artificial palms and little glass-topped mahogany tables
are reflected in the high prices charged. But the East
Side beaux disregard the extravagance if they can bask
a little while with a pretty girl in the atmosphere of this
fictitious affluence.

The most interesting, however, are the vegetarian res-
taurants. These places were started by Russian refugees
who were disciples of Tolstoy. Flesh, fish and fowl
are utterly taboo here. For a time the patrons were
confined to the rigid adherents of vegetarianism, but the
creed spread, and they are now doing a flourishing busi-
ness. In all, there are four such places on the East
Side. Monotony has been banished from the diet by the
invention of ingenious dishes that stimulate in name,
taste and form the forbidden meat dishes, but the sub-
stance remains faithfully vegetarian.

While these places are interesting to read about, it
must be borne in mind that some of them are not attrac-
tive; but of course they are novel and malodorous. They
are quite thick along Second Avenue, sometimes as many
as three on a block.

French cooking is a feature of nearly every first class
hotel, and there is no difficulty in obtaining strictly
French dishes, even to snails, prepared by a French chef
in any of the de luxe hotels or restaurants, like the
Biltmore or the Vanderbilt. The Cafe Lafayette, Bre-
voort and Mouqin's are three leading French restaurants.

Italian restaurants are everywhere in evidence. Guf-
fanti's, on Seventh Avenue near the Pennsylvania Sta-
tion; Gonfarone's, on Waverly Place; Enrico's, on 12th
Street. See back of book for more complete list.

The most famous of the Hungarian restaurants is, of
course, "Little Hungary/' quite a favorite with the late
Colonel Roosevelt and brought into great notoriety by
the dinner he attended there after his first election in
payment of a promise to the proprietor. It is the proper
place to go for the tourist, and although there are many
others, such as Cafe Boheme and Earth's, Little Hun-
gary leads them all.

The Americain Hotel, on 14th Street near Sixth Ave-
nue, is a good Spanish restaurant. The portions are
numerous and generous and price medium. There are
others on the same block. They are small places, how-
ever, for local trade only. Uptown in the neighborhood
of 72nd Street and Riverside Drive, is another Spanish
section.

A typical Russian restaurant is the Russian Inn, at
57 West 37th Street. It is much frequented by Rus-
sians and here the conversation is all about Russia. The
waitresses are in peasant costume; embroidered blouses
with puffed sleeves, white aprons over colored skirts,
strings of tinted beads wound about the throat several
times. At the Sunday dinner there is Russian music.
This is an attractive place, slightly artificial.

The fad for Chop Suey and for Chinese restaurants
still persists. The Tokio and Pekin, in the White Light
district^ being the most prominent and most expensive.

Parade of the Striking Actors on Broadway,

U. & U.

There are live quite orthodox Chinese restaurants in
Chinatown. They are ostensibly Chinese owned and
managed by Chinese. The real proprietors, however,
are Cohen and Rosenthal, so you can draw your own
conclusions. Few homegrown Chinese take nourishment
in these places, because they feel kind of- out of place
and they hate to break in on the nice white people from
upto^vn and Brooklyn. But the waiters are all Chinese,
for the same reason that the walls have Chinese dragon
tapestry. The lights are shrouded in fantastic shades,
and the place is redolent with the perfume of fire
cracker punk, which exhales a not unpleasant odor. The
prices are not moderate.

The Armenian restaurant, 323 Fourth Avenue, serves
lamb in the forty orthodox ways demanded by this race,
also vine leaves, rice and wheat, pilat, etc. — a very good
restaurant, moderate in price and worth while going to
see if you care for a real, genuine Armenian meal such
as the native demands.

Mendel's restaurant, in the Grand Central Terminal,
serves an Oyster Stew that is famous throughout the
country, many strangers as well as New Yorkers,
having partaken of the delectable dish.

On Lexington Avenue near 23rd Street there is a
good typical native Bulgarian restaurant.

There are many other novel places in which the strang-
er can dine and experience complete change from the
ordinary hotel or restaurants. Yon also get acquainted
with the "local color." In most of these "out of the usual
haunts" there is some special quality about the cooking
that attracts. Two sisters from Detroit, for instance,
serve a Simday night buffet supper in an old house they
have rented at 20 East o4th Street. After the price
per head has been paid each guest helps himself to the
croquettes, patties, salads, cold cuts, cheese sandwiches.
The furnishings are unique and a visit is rather a novelty.

At the Blue Plate, 56 West 50th Street, a 50 cent

luncheon is served, and dinner at 75 cents. ^leals are
served from blue plate old English -vvillovr ware. The
proprietor came from the West, where he turned away
disappointed crowds every evening. The steaks, baked
Virginia ham and other dishes made his reputation.

Marie Antoinette's Tea Room, at 128 West 72nd
Street, makes a specialty of tea and waffles. There is
a table d'hote luncheon for 75 cents and a dinner for
$1.25, consisting of Creole soup, braised chicken, ham
and eggs, ice cream, pie, and demi-tasse. Southern cook-
ing is the attraction here. The Desire, at 17 West
S9th Street, serves a nice luncheon for 55 cents and din-
ner for 65 cents. The French pastry of their own
cooking is famous. The Samovar, at 6 East S6th Street,
specializes in New England cooking and serves Boston
baked beans, baked ham., waffles, and its famous pumpkin
pie, standing at least an inch high in its crispy browned
crust. Luncheon is 60 cents and 75c and dinner $1.00.
The People's House Cafeteria, at 7 East 15th Street,
with its green stained chairs and tables, is quite a pecu-
liar place. It is modeled after some of the famous
People's houses abroad. Any profit that comes from
the food is turned back for the good of the place and
the people frequenting it. The very reasonableness of
the prices in these days makes one gasp. Tea, 7 cents a
pot, vegetables, 8 cents, ice cream, 12 cents. One can
eat here at reasonable expense. The California Kitchen,
at 28 East 61st Street, with its scarlet high backed
benches, Chinese scarlet hangings against the restful
gray of the walls, is a nice place to dine. The light
falls from great lanterns in a soft pleasing glow. A
meat with vegetables, a salad with dressing, cherry pie,
and demi-tasse for 50 cents is the luncheon. Dinner
is 90 cents. As a bit from our Far West, this nook
is interesting. Aunt Clemmy's, at 1 University Place, in
the "Village," gives us sure enough Virginia cooking.
Fruit pies, pumpkin pies, mince pies, made to order.

Cabarets

For some time, the old-fashioned dinner with its social
and intimate conversation has been a thing of the past.
Nowadays when you have finished your oysters your
partner grabs you and shimmies around till he sees that
soup is served. In the meantime, all the wicky-wicky
boys and girls in grass skirts cavort around the open
space you have just abandoned to the tune of countless
ukuleles, tom-toms and clanking castanets. In a few mo-
ments the performers disappear, your soup has been
served, and there is time for another whirl before the
fish comes, and you whirl. All of which is vastly dif-
ferent from the good old days we formerly sighed for
and which we are now likely to get back, just as we
have become accustomed to the other. It must be con-
ceded that the lights, the music, the brilliancy all go
to make up a rather enjoyable scene. It is certainly
different from what one sees at home and the novelty
charms. Quite a competition has grown up among the
various cabarets, and very elaborate programmes are now
nightly given in most of the more pretentious places.

All kinds of attractive names are selected for the
various rooms in which these performances are given,
and many of them are most luxuriously and lavishly de-
signed. It would be hard to find a more artistic creation
than the Crystal Cascade at the Biltmore, the Cocoanut
Grove at the Century Theatre, Murray's Roman Gardens
or the Orange Glades at Healey's, to say nothing of a
dozen others. Dining at restaurants is a custom much
more largely the vogue in New York than in other cities,
and naturally many inducements are held out to attract
business, hence the ornate furnishings, delightful music

Having refreshed the inner man, we will now resume
our trip where we left off and cross Broadway from
Trinity Church and proceed through the Financial
District.

THE FINANCIAL DISTRICT

WALL STREET, THE BEST KNOWN HALF MILE
IN THE WORLD

THE VARIOUS EXCHANGES; WHERE WASHINGTON TOOK LEAVE OF

HIS officers; sons of THE revolution; petticoat lane;
THE curb; the pit; king cotton; four century old

banks; ALEXANDER HAMILTON; NEW YORK, THE
capital of THE UNITED STATES, (1789) ; IN-
AUGURATION OF WASHINGTON AS FIRST
PRESIDENT.

/^F the four streets in New York known the world over
^^ — Broadway, Fifth Avenue, the Bowery and Wall
Street — the latter is by far the most famous. News-
papers in every section of civilization print its name
in every issue, and the Wall Street column has a larger
number of daily readers than any other item printed.
For a street less than half a mile long and but little
more than thirty feet wide, its importance is altogether
disproportionate to its mere physical size. It does not
lack dignity, however, both sides being lined with build-
ings of the most costly and imposing character. Aside
from its fame as the greatest of all financial centres,
the street derives piquancy and zest from the thrills and
excitement of meeting face to face most of the men
whose names are familiar to the reading public.

All the great captains of industry ; the capitalists
whose every move is recorded by the press ; distinguished
visitors from foreign countries; railroad presidents,
various dignitaries in the shape of steel kings, rubber
kings, sugar kings, oil kings and lesser members of the
royal families of commerce and manufacture may all be
seen here. The comings and goings of J. P. Morgan
are always moments of delightful excitement to the
visitor and something to speak about when he gets back
home. Mr. Morgan's photograph is so frequently print-
ed that he is easily recognized. The same is true of
Mr. Rockefeller. With these two exceptions, most of
the big men, though well known by name to the average
reader, cannot very well be identified from the occasional
portraits that appear. Business, however, brings them
constantly on the street, and they are everywhere in
evidence.

But to begin our trip in an orderly fashion. At num-
ber one is the First National Bank, known in financial
circles as "Fort Sherman," because of the important
part played by it during the resumption of specie pay-
ments when John Sherman was Secretary of the Treas-
ury. The office building adjoining, the Schermerhorn,
is an Astor building. At number ten stood a very noted
church in its day, the old First Presbyterian Meeting
House, where Jonathan Edwards preached, as did also
George Whitfield. It was used as a hospital by the Brit-
ish in the Revolution. It was called a meeting house,
we are told, because when it was built, in 1719, only
the Dutch Reformed and the established Church of
England were permitted to have churches. Other places
of worship were houses, and to keep up this legal fiction
they had to be provided with fireplaces. We are also
told that the fireplaces were never used, since in those
primitive days anything conducive to comfort in the
sanctuary was considered a contrivance of the devil.

m^m^^mmm

*-iIF?

Rare view of Wall Street from Broad Street, 1S25. Simmons*
Tavern and the old Presbyterian Church on
the right. Trinity Church at head.
From Stokes' Iconography of New York.

The next building, a magnificent 40-story structure,
which extends to the corner, is the well known Bankers'
Trust Company. It occupies the site on which stood
the modest wooden building kept by John Simmons as
a tavern, and a famous one, too, as Simmons was a
friend of both Henry Brevoort and Washington Irving.
But of much greater importance is the fact that to
Simmons' Tavern came the Common Council of New
York in 1784 to elect James Duane the first Mayor of
the newly organized city.

Across Nassau Street, directly opposite the Bankers'
Trust Company, is the United States Sub-Treasury —
easily recognized by the massive bronze statue of Wash-
ington in the centre of the steps.

This is easily one of the most interesting sites in all
New York, and the loss of the original building is now
recognized to be one of the most deplorable occurrences
in local history, for here stood the first City Hall
(1699), built by the English. Eighty-nine years later
this same building, but greatly altered, became the first
Capitol of the United States of America.

In its Colonial days, the Cage, Pillory, Stocks and
Whipping Post stood in front of the entrance. The
interior contained a Court Room, the Common Council's
Chamber, the jail, a volunteer fire department, a debtors'
prison and a small public library. Many of the books
in this collection were lost or destroyed during the Revo-
lution, but the remainder were saved and a society
formed to preserve and add to the balance. Out of
this effort grew our present Society Library on Uni-
versity Place, the oldest institution of its kind in New
York.

]\Iany historical and epoch making events occurred in
this old building during its lifetime. Here was won Peter
Zenger's celebrated victory over the Royal Government in-
suring ever after the freedom of the press ; a trial which

'^r%^?^^

*-^i4jP

Where Washington was inaugurated 1789. Federal Hall, corner
Wall and Nassau Streets, present site Sub-Treasury Building

• ■

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H^WS^^w^

ihbH^^

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Washington arriving at New York for his Inauguration,
April. 1789.

was closely followed by Benjamin Franklin, Samuel
Adams and other Revolutionary leaders. It marked a
tremendously forward step in the struggle for Independ-
ence. The Stamp Act Congress also convened within
these walls and armed resistance to the Crown was only
avoided by the prompt compliance of the government to
the demand of this Congress for the surrender of the
obnoxious stamps forthwith. Truly a storm was ap-
proaching, but the German King on an English throne
had eyes that saw not and ears that heard not. In 1785
it was used as the State Capitol and here the Continental
Congress met. Every day in the corridors could be seen
such men as John Hancock, James Monroe, Benjamin
Franklin, Alexander Hamilton and other distinguished
citizens.

When it was seen that the Continental Congress would
shortly begin the formation of a permanent national
government. New York, under the guidance of Alexandei
Hamilton, began at once a campaign to secure the loca-
tion of the Federal capitol in this city.

Extensive alterations in the City Hall were made under
plans prepared by Major L'Enfant (who afterwards
gained fame as the designer of the present capitol at
Washington), and a practically new building was the
result. It was then offered to the Continental Congress
as a permanent home for the cajDitol. This offer was
accepted. Congress and the Senate convened here to
elect the first president. Their choice fell upon General
Washington, who was accordingly inaugurated here in
April, 1789.

"In a few minutes Washington stepped upon
the balcony fronting on Wall Street. For an instant
he stood in full sight of the assembled multitude
but the wild outburst of cheering which greeted his
appearance drove him a step backward visibly
affected. He was dressed in a suit of dark brown
cloth with metal buttons ornamented with eagles,
his stockings were white silk and his shoebuckles
silver. At his side he carried a simple steel hilted

dreuo sword; his powdered hair was worn in a
queue, the fa,shion of the times. Close behind him
stoo;! Chancellor Robert Livingston wearing his
official lobe. Grouped about these two men stood
John Adams. George Clinton, Roger Sherman,
Baron Steuben, Samuel Otis, Richard Henry Lee,
General Arthur St. Clair and General Knox. Behind
them but not visible from the street stood members
of Congress and distinguished witnesses. Alexander
Hamilton witnessed the scene from the window of
his house opposite (now part of the Morgan Bank).
There was a moment's pause as the company
took their positions and then Samuel Otis, the
Secretary of State, carrying a crimson cushion on
which rested the Bible, presented it to the Chan-
cellor, who administered the oath, whereupon
Washington kissed the book and the official procla-
mation, "Long live George Washington, President
of the United States" ended with a crash of artil-
lery and a renewed burst of cheering. Such was
the day of giory which m.ade New York the capi-
tol of the nation." — Trevor Hill.

The statue on the steps of the present Sub-Treasury
building represents Washington in the exact position in
which he stood when repeating the oath of office. Part
of the railing on which his hand rested during the
ceremony is to be seen in the rooms of the New York
Historical Society and a section of the brown stone slab
on which he stood has been fortunately preserved and
is enclosed in a bronze glass frame. It is inside the
building and can be seen on the south w^all.

The Government did not long remain in New York,
but before it was removed, Washington enacted several
important measures which would have distinguished this
building above all others in the country had it been pre-
served. He signed the bill creating the Supreme Court
of the United States. He issued to Thomas Jefferson,
author of the Declaration of Independence, his commis-
sion as Minister to France. Aaron Burr was elected
to the Senate in this hall, and all the extremely important
creative measures attending the birth of the new Repub-
lic here first saw the light of day. Apparently the im-
portance of the building was never understood or appre-
ciated, for after a short period during w^hich it was

occupied as the State capitol, the structure was allowed
to fall into disrepair. It was shorn of its interesting
portico and arcade and turned into a general utility
building, containing the Custom House, brokers' offices
and other tenants. Its ancient glory had departed. The
new Government House on Bowling Green, completed
about this time, served to detract public interest from
this fine old Colonial relic and in a few years it was
demolished. So disappeared this most romantic and
historical building in all New York and the Sub-Treas-
ury you now see, rose in its place.

Two other events are worth recording before the cur-
tain is rung down on the final scene. In 1 804 John Pin-
tard and his friends organized within its walls the New
York Historical Society which today occupies a million
dollar building of its own in Central Park West; and the
Chamber of Commerce, now our most influential business
organization, used it as a meeting place.

The Sub-Treasury is one of the buildings which will
provide a most interesting item in the day's record.
Startling scenes are frequently witnessed. It is not at
all unusual to see a dozen heavily guarded express wag-
ons drive up loaded with many millions in gold from
London or Paris. Untold wealth is always in evidence,
either going out or coming in, and the half hour spent
looking it over is sure to be a pleasant experience. It
is open from 10 A. M. to 3 P. M. In order to see the
vaults wherein is stored bullion amounting to many hun-
dred millions, it is desirable to obtain a card of intro-
duction from a New York bank.

Adjoining the Sub-Treasury until recently stood the
building well remembered as the old Assay Office. It
was originally erected to house the New York Branch
of the Bank of the United States. After President
Jackson had succeeded in killing "The Bank" and had
also ruined half the country in the process, the building

was let to private parties. At one time it was occupied
by Henry Clews and Company and others. Then it
became the Assay Office. The facade of this building,
a rare piece of classical design, has fortunately been
preserved by a public spirited New Yorker, Mr. I. N.
Phelps Stokes, the well known architect. At some future
time it may again adorn some appropriate building and
recall the story days of "Old Hickory" in finance.

The site of the next building, the fifth west of Wil-
liam Street, has been occupied for a hundred and twenty
years by the Manliattan Company, which purchased the
plot in 1799. This bank was originally organized as
a water company and for years rejoiced in the posses-
sion of a statue which gazed complacently at the passers-
by from a perch on the roof. It was supposed to repre-
sent Oceanus (not Bacchus) reclining in a comfortable
position and pouring water out of a jar, probably in-
tended to be symbolic of the blessings so generously
bestowed by the company upon the thirsty populace.
When the Croton project was being agitated Recorder
Riker opposed the enterprise, contending that the water
furnished by the Manhattan Company wa,s good enough
for anyone and in proof of the assertion adduced the
fact that he drank a tumbler of it every morning. The
rest of those present, while applauding the reckless cour-
age of Mr. Riker, decided to protect the good man
from himself and unanimously voted to build the Croton
Aqueduct.

Going along the street to the corner of William Street,
we pass four century old banks in a row. No. 46, on the
corner of William Street, was leased by the Bank of
New York about 1798 as the residence of its cashier,
whose son, Charles Wilkes, junior, as Commander Wilkes
of the U. S. Navy, became famous in the Civil War for
the seizure of Mason and Slidell, Confederate Commis-
sioners to Great Britain. The same site, some years

previous, was the residence of Major Nathaniel Pendle-
ton of the Continental Army, who was one of General
Hamilton's seconds at the fatal duel with Burr.

On the northeast corner of William and Wall, near
where once stood a marble statue of William Pitt, now in
the Historical Society's custody, is the oldest one of them
all, the Bank of New York. The second oldest is the
Bank of Manhattan. The third is the Merchants' Bank,
and the fourth the Bank of America. The first was
organized by Alexander Hamilton and the second by
Aaron Burr, and recalls the rivalry between the two
men. At 48 Wall Street is a tablet to mark the site
of one of the bastions that stood in the wall at this point.

Down Wall Street as far as Pearl Street, the financial
and banking houses continue in evidence, one having
a tablet to mark the first office devoted to the business
of life insurance in this country. This business was
introduced by Morris Robinson, a Scotchman from Can-
ada. A few doors below the insurance company once
stood the house in which Captain Kidd resided for some
time. Just before Pearl is the Seaman's Bank for Sav-
ings. Beyond Pearl Street is the Tontine Building,
which recalls the Tontine Coffee House, a famous meet-
ing place of the merchants of Old New York and where
the Stock Exchange originated. The first meeting place
of the latter was under a now famous buttonwood tree
in front of No. 70. A few exporters still occupy the
remaining buildings of the street, but these are of no
historical importance, beyond the fact that they face
what was at one time a slave market, as the extra width
of the street at this point will serve to indicate.

The East River and South Street are just in front
of us and across the river can be seen Brooklyn Heights,
at one time a very fashionable residential section, but
now largely abandoned by its old families and given
over to hotels and boarding houses.

_ Crossing to the South side of Wall Street and retrac-
ing our steps to Broadway, we eome upon the offices ^of
the American Sugar Refining Company. Office buildings
of the great coffee and sugar interests now succeed each
ereT^"*? '° ""=/"™'='- "^ P^^^l Street, where a tablet
T.T^^^'^ \^°^'^ ^^«" St-eet Patriotic Association
ma ks the location of another famous pre-Revolutionary
bmldmg-the old Merchants' Coffee House. Many fa-
rnous conferences were held here by the patriots before
«e breaking out of actual hostilities, and plans perfected
winch had important results. Hamilton organized the
Bank of Aew York here Murray's Wharf came up to

Wn hi'" /""f .'" ,"''''" "^^y^ ^"-J it ^^» ''"e that
^\ashington landed when he came from Mt. Vernon to
be inaugurated. The tablet gives a full history of the
Coftee House which was a remarkably important build-
ing historically. A painting of it has fortunately been

SocietT '"^•'' ^^ ''"'" "' **" ^"^ ^'"'^ Historical

Important financial institutions, including the old Bal-
imore firm of Brown Tros. & Co., succeed each other,
til we come to one ol the most prominent banks in
the country, the National City Bank, occupying what
IS probably the largest and costliest premises 1 the
country devoted to financial business. The building was
formerly the United States Custom House, and was

dest :' T. ''•:," V "'t-'g'-l Merchants' Exchange,
destroyed m the Great Fire of 1835. The building is
impressive by its massive proportions and dominates
the section on which it stands. Adjoining the City Bank
.s the old Atlantic Mutual Insurance Company. 'one "f
Stites 'T^Ji r'""' i'^^l^auce companies; the United
Mates Trust Company, the Equitable Trust; O G Orr
insurance, and other well known institutions. ' Part of
the site of the next building is associated with one of
the greatest of all New Yorkers, General Alexande

Hamilton. He owned an L-shaped piece of land extend-
ing from No. 35 Wall Street around into Broad Street.
There is some dispute as to which street his residence
fronted, but the General's grandson and biographer. Dr.
Allan McLane Hamilton, says Wall Street. About 1792
he sold the property, or at least the Wall Street part
of it, to Gulian Verplank, who resided there till his
death in 1799. At that time he was president of the
Bank of New York.

Next comes perhaps the most widely known bank in
the world — that of J. P. Morgan & Co., housed in a
low, impressive, classic looking structure on the corner
of Wall and Broad Streets, the last 30 feet of which is
on the Hamilton site just mentioned.

This corner later became police headquarters, with Mr.
Jacob Hays as High Constable, the title corresponding
with that of Police Commissioner today.

From the prominence of his position and the remark-
able vigor and judgment with which he discharged the
duties of his office. High Constable Hays became the
best known citizen in New York. He is often portrayed
as a comic figure, but such characterization is unjust,
for not only did he enjoy universal respect, from the
law-abiding and from the criminal as well, but he also
possessed (and deserved) an international reputation as
the ablest police officer in America and the equal of any
in Europe. Appointed by Mayor Livingston in 1802,
he was reappointed by each succeeding Mayor until his
death in 1850, at the advanced age of seventy-eight.

The first building on the Kidder Peabody corner op-
posite was a Dutch house with a gable toward the street,
from the stoop of which in 1795 Alexander Hamilton
made a speech advocating the Jay treaty with England.
He evidently spoke with less persuasiveness than usual,
for the applause he received was a shower of stones.

-""'?^'"r^ x_.rtv among the Bankers and Brokers in Broad Street
iicker tape and snow storms of torn paper filled the
TT o TT ^^^ ' ' "^y ^°"S- The crowds were enormous.
U. & U.

It is not generally known that Washington Irving
was a lawyer, but a full-fledged attorney he was_, hav-
ing received his training in the office of Josiah Ogden
Hoffman. He and his brother, John T. Irving, had
an office in the building on the east corner of New
Street, and it was here that Irving received a generous
offer from Mr. George P. Putnam to become his pub-
lisher. In his delight at this good turn in his fortunes,
Irving kicked over the desk in front of him and cried:
"There is no necessity, John, of my bothering any fur-
ther with the law. Here is a fool publisher willing to
give me a thousand dollars a year for doing nothing."
The connection thus formed continued till Irving's death
in 1859 and proved much more remunerative than the
sum quoted. To this day the Putnams have been the
logical publishers for everything connected with Irving.

At the same address is found another brother. Dr.
Peter Irving, M. D. This was in 1807, '09 and '10.
A few years later on one of the New Street corners,
probably the same building, was the bookstore of Charles
Wiley and Company, a favorite resort of Halleck,
Bryant, Paulding, Irving, Drake and other literary men
of the time.

Just below the New Street corner is the Wall Street
entrance to the Stock Exchange, easily the most talked
of institution in the financial district. It is fully de-
scribed in the pages relating to Broad Street, which is
its official location and principal entrance.

The lure of the Stock Exchange, the marvellous tales
of enormous riches acquired in the twinkling of an eye,
are as you see, not the only things that invest Wall
Street with its absorbing interest for the general public.
Some of these yarns are palpable inventions, but they

101

make good stories and will continue to be printed, but
Wall Street as the world's financial centre has a serious
role to enact and performs its part with commendable
sincerity and undoubted ability.

Wall Street is so short that one can walk down one
side and up the other in less than twenty minutes. Make
a few notes of the places you particularly wish to see
and It will add greatly to your pleasure, as you can
go about with a definite plan in view. Admission to
the Stock Exchange and the Sub-Treasury is by ticket
but almost any banker or broker will provide you with
that upon request. There is nothing particular to see
m private places like the National City Bank or Mor-
gan's, but you can step inside and polite attention will
be paid you and part of the interior shown.

Everywhere in New York, if a stranger expresses a
desire to see more or know more of a certain building
he will find an attendant who will try to meet his wishes
as far as consistent with business. As one of the most
talked-of thoroughfares in the world "the Street," as
Wall Street is colloquially known, will more than repay
the time spent within its romantic and interesting bounds.
It is an express station on the subways and easily
reached from all parts of town.

^ The utter desertion of downtown streets after six
o clock is something unbelievable. In the financial dis-
trict, especially along lower Broadway, one's footsteps
echo and re-echo among the tall buildings. Nor is the
lonely pedestrian so much alone as he thinks. Countless
prying eyes keep the wayfarer under close surveillance
till he proves his harmlessness by boarding a subway or
street-car bound for Brooklyn or the Bronx.

102

Broad Street, north to U. S. Sub-Treasury in Wall Street,
crowd on the street is the "Curb" Market
American Studios

The

Fraunces' Tavern, Broad and Pearl Streets, where Washington
took farewell of his officers 1784

IN THE FOOTPRINTS OF WASHINGTON

Fraunces' Tavern; Broad Street; "The Curb"; The
"Pit", etc. The Stock Exchange; Cotton
Exchange, etc., etc.
T OOKING down Broad Street to Pearl from the steps
^-^ of the Sub-Treasury, stands what is regarded by
many as easily the most interesting building in all New
York, Fraunces' Tavern. At all events it is one of those
most intimately connected with Washington. Here on
December 4th, 1783, the Commander-in-Chief of the
American armies met his old comrades in the field. The
War was over. "Swords must now be turned into plow-
shares and knives into pruning hooks." Washington, like
Cincinnatus must go back to his farm.

Forty- four officers were present on this memorable
occasion, including. Generals Greene, Knox, Wayne,
Steuben, Carroll, Lincoln, Kosciusko, Moultrie and
Hamilton. Governor Clinton, Colonel Tallm^dge and
others.

104

By rare good fortune we are able to describe this won-
derful event by one who was present at the ceremony
in person and who afterwards recorded it in his journal.
This interesting account in its original form is still in
possession of the Tavern and can be seen upon applica-
tion to the Society of the Sons of the Revolution. It is
by Colonel Tallmadge who was on the staff of Washing-
ton. It was a descendant of this Revolutionary officer
who presented the building to the Sons, as will be told
later on.

Col. Tallmadge thus describes the Farewell meeting:

"We had been assembled but a few minutes
when His Excellency entered the room. His
emotion, too strong to be concealed, seemed . to be
reciprocated by every officer present. After par-
taking of a slight refreshment amid almost breath-
less silence, the General filled his glass with wine
and turning to his officers said: 'With a heart full
of love and gratitude I must now take my leave
of you. I most devoutly wish that your latter days
may be as prosperous and happy as your former
ones have been glorious and honorable.' After the
officers had taken a glass of wine, the General
added: 'I cannot come to each of you to take my
leave, but shall be obliged to you if each will come
and take me by the hand.' General Knox, being
nearest to him, turned to the Commander-in-Chief,
who, suffused in tears, was incapable of utterance,
but grasped his hand, when they embraced each
other in silence. In the same affectionate manner
every officer in the room marched up to, kissed
and parted with his General-in-Chief. Such a scene
of sorrow and weeping I had never before wit-
nessed, and hope I may never be called upon to
witness again. Not a word was uttered to break
the solemn silence that prevailed, or to interrupt
the tenderness of the occasion."

Upon the conclusion of the leave taking General Wash-
ington slowly walked down the room, descended the
stairs and was soon embarked on a barge at Whitehall
Ferry on his way to Annapolis to resign his commission.
The "Long Room," in which this affecting scene occur-
red, occupies the second floor of the Tavern and has been
lovingly restored to look exactly the same today as it

105

appeared upon that memorable occasion. In addition to
its own interest as an historic shrine, it contains many
interesting relics pertaining to the "time that tried men's
souls."

The building is owned by the Sons of the Revolution.
The original structure was built in 1719 as a private
dwelling house for Etienne de Lancey, a prominent mer-
chant of old New York, early in the eighteenth century.

It finally passed through the usual experience of the
old New York house after its youth is spent. Business
creeps in and the respectability of the neighborhood in
a social sense, departs. Col. Joseph Robinson leased
the place in 1757 and in 1759 it was bought by de
Lancey Robinson & Company (James Parker) and used
as a general store.

Some years later, 1762, Samuel Fraunces, who after-
wards became steward for Washington while President,
bought the place and turned it into an "ordinary" which
he named after the young consort of George III.,
"Queen's Head Tavern," hanging out doubtless a swing-
ing sign with an impossible portrait, as was the custom
in those days. During the war the roof was struck by
a shot from the British man-of-war Asia.

In 1768 in the same room in which Washington parted
from his officers was again the scene of a notable oc-
curence. A number of merchants met here and organized
the present New York Chamber of Commerce. They
elected Mr. John Cruger, President. This is the only
public body now in New York which existed before the
Revolution. During the troublesome days that preceded
the war for Independence the old tavern was very busy.
The Sons of Liberty and the Vigilance Committee met
here at various times; notably when the ship London
docked at the wharf with tea on board, in defiance of the
Non-Importation agreement. The meeting resulted in
the members boarding the vessel at the dock and throw-

106

ing the tea overboard. This was New York's tea party
and preceded the Boston Tea Party by quite a little while.

The Continental Congress was virtually the outgrowth
of the work of the Committee on Correspondence which
met and conducted its labors from this building. Gov-
ernor Clinton gave a banquet on Evacuation Day to Gen-
eral Washington and many of his military staff. In
1844 the last important event occurred but one — the
founding of the New York Yacht Club.

After 1844 it fell upon evil days and became a
saloon patronized by teamsters and longshoremen. It
seemed well on the way to an ignominous ending when
a renaissance of the Revolutionary spirit was suddenly
aroused in 1888 by the celebration of the 100th Anni-
versary of Washington's Farewell. As a result a new
society was formed — and in the same identical room in
which the event occurred which they were celebrating.
This was the Sons of the Revolution, a patriotic organiza-
tion, devoted to the purpose of keeping alive the best
traditions of the spirit of '76, now having members in
every city and known all over the union.

The Society had not been long in existence before it
began to agitate for the preservation by the city of this
historic building and to plead for its restoration to its
former state of grandeur. The City was still consider-
ing the subject when the Sons of the Revolution, through
a generous bequest left by Mr. Frederick Samuel Tall-
madge, one of its members, and a descendant of Col.
Tallmadge, was enabled to secure the building for itself.

With this importation consummation achieved the So-
ciety at once prepared plans for a complete restoration
of the building. In this it has been fully successful;
the tavern today is exactly as it was in Washington's
time.

It is quite popular as a resort for "Honeymooners".
The Society gladly welcomes visitors and a restaurant

107

has been provided so that strangers may dine there while
inspecting the famous old Tavern. An attendant in
powdered wig, knee breeches, silk stockings and slippers
imparts quite a Colonial atmosphere which is much en-
joyed by the visitor. Prices at the restaurant are no
higher than elsewhere and a lunch or dinner here provides
an additional pleasant experience that will long be re-
membered in your red letter day of your visit to New
York.

Coming out of the Tavern and its memories of bygone
days, we are almost startled by the sudden transition
into modern life. This is emphasized by the appearance
of the famous "Curb" market, that curious assemblage
of outdoor brokers whose market place is not far from
the old Tavern. Day in and day out, rain or shine,
business proceeds without interruption in the open air
by this novel organization. Costumes change, according
to the vagaries of the weather, but nothing interferes with
business. The buildings on both sides of the street di-
rectly opposite the crowd are filled with clerks signalling
orders or receiving messages from the Curb. Dozens of
telephones with an attendant at each can be plainly seen
from the sidewalk and the frantic motions of the oper-
ators trying to deliver urgent orders form one of the
illuminating features of life on the Curb.

The first phenomenon that piques the curiosity of
the innocent "wayfarer is the meaning and purpose of
the finger signs. For the most part, they denote price.
They do not convey the full prices. That is supposed
to be known. If a stock is selling at 89 1/8, all that
will be indicated by the hands will be the eighth. The
hand turned up means "bid" or what somebody is will-
ing to pay for the stock; the hand turned down means
"offered," or what somebody is willing to sell it for.
The index finger, pointing up, means one-eighth of a
point bid ; two fingers a quarter ; three fingers, three-

108

Looking down Broad Street from Wall. Stock Exchange on right.
Underbill

eights, and so on to more complicated signals. Point-
ing down, the fingers indicate the fraction of a point
offered.

The multi-colored hats worn by these people are not
adopted as a mark of eccentricity, but for the severely
practical purpose of making recognition easy by any indi-
vidual in the windows of the firm whom he represents.

Romance is thick these days on the Curb. Men have
gone there poor, wrecks, failures, borrowing quarters
and dimes for lunch; have bought some engraved certi-
ficates that nobody else wanted, have prospered, put on
good clothes, worn diamonds, driven automobiles, dined
m the finest hotels, kept chauffeurs and country estates
and yachts, kept on trading and gone back again to
borrowing quarters and dimes for lunch.

Leaving the Curb we are soon in front of the impos-
ing, many pillared building of the Stock Exchange.
All the sightseeing buses stop here, as well as at other
interesting points in this section. Admission to the
Stock Exchange is now restricted; a card of introduc-
tion may, however, be easily obtained either from your
own banker or by request from most of the larger broker-
age houses in the neighborhood. The interior of the
building is like a large theatre without seats. Visitors
view the "floor" from a gallery. Scattered throughout
the floor are various posts labelled "Steel," "Union
Pacific," "Sugar," "Tobacco," etc., etc. Around these
posts gather the brokers who specialize in these par-
ticular stocks. Nowadays the number of securities listed
on 'Change, as they call it, is so great that no one
broker professes to know them all intimately. The
tendency is to make a study of one or two stocks and
follow their movements closely. On the wall is a huge
blackboard on which numbers appear and disappear con-
tinually. These are signals indicating that a telephone
or telegram has been received for such and such a mera-

110

ber whose number corresponds with the one flashed
on the board. The member at once repairs to his tele-
phone booth or looks for the appearance of the mes-
senger who is sure to be looking for him on the floor.
Seconds are precious in the Stock Exchange and none
are lost needlessly. .

Except in times of great financial excitement, the scene
in the Exchange is that of an orderly, well conducted
organization. Members move about from post to post,
stop to chat with each other or sit down on the sofas
that encircle the posts. Ever and anon the Chairman
raps for order, reads some announcement, and the rou-
tine is resumed. Save for this occasional interruption
the steady hum of conversation continues till the sound
of the bell at 3 o'clock, ending the day's session.

At other times, when some tragic happening has oc-
curred to upset the financial world, like the late war
or the assassination of a President, the scene beggars
description. Pandemonium is let loose and the scene of
confusion and excitement is something that will remain
in the spectator's mind for a lifetime. The galleries
are soon filled to capacity. There seems to be some-
thing irresistibly fascinating in watching the wiping out
of a fortune. You are aware that the millionaire of the
morning is the pauper of the night. You almost see
great wealth in the very act of dissolution. Ruin and
misery will follow in its train. Great families will go
down in despair. Yet you hang on and cannot tear
yourself away from the frightful spectacle. It is a sin-
gular trait in human nature.

The other exchanges are also in the immediate neigh-
borhood. The Produce Exchange, in which is located
"the Pit," that singular name for the trading of wheat,
is located on Pearl Street. William E. Norris has tried
to tell us something of the tragedy and heartbreaks
that have sprung from "the Pit," but the wildest dreams

111

of the imagination fail to equal the stern realities of
fact. . Back of the Produce Exchange is Marketfield
Street^ the short thoroughfare down which Stuyvesant
led his soldiers out of Fort Amsterdam to a ship in the
harbor after his capitulation to the English. They
changed the name to Petticoat Lane. On the building
itself is a tablet marking the site of the first French
Huguenot Church. The members of this church came
every Sunday from New Rochelle^ walking all the way
in their bare feet in order to save their shoes. Fancy
a congregation today trudging twenty-five miles for a
Sunday service! In the courtyard of the Exchange is
also a tablet erected by the New York Schoolmasters'
Club to mark the site of the first school on Manhattan
Island — Adam Roelandtsen (1638).

The Cotton Exchange is on Beaver Street^ about three
minutes east from the Produce. This is the seat of
King Cotton, whose rule there is none to dispute. About
nine-tenths of all the world's supply is grown in our
Southern States and hither come the world's consumers
for supplies. Although this building is far removed
from any plantation and many of its members, so it is
said, have never even seen one, still the price of cotton
is fixed here and the sources of supply and demand
brought together. As in that other great staple, wheat,
there exists also in cotton that fatal fascination that
lures men to destruction. A corner in cotton has proved
the undoing of many ?. man that might have been a
huge success could he have resisted the blandishments
of that seductive siren. On the walls of this exchange
is a tablet erected by the New York Historical Society
to mark the site of the first weekly newspaper published
in New York — Bradford's Gazette (1725). Bradford's
grave is in Trinity Church and is almost the first one
on the right as you enter the sacred enclosure. Every
year on his birthday the members of Big Six Typo-

112

©u. & u.

A militant member of the Striking Actor

graphical Union repair to the resting place of the first
printer in New York and bedeck his grave with flowers.
Hanover Square, in front of the exchange, is named
after George I. of Hanover, and was a fashionable
centre of English New York. The India House, a pri-
vate club modeled after a similar organization that flour-
ished in New York a century ago, faces the square and
is well worth a visit. It has a wonderful collection of
ship models and old prints of ships and steamers, be-
sides many other recollections of the Asiatic trade which
was formerly a great factor in the port of New York.
The India House might be said to be a memorial of
the late Major Willard Straight, a young financier who
died in France during war service, and who was mainly
responsible for its organization.

The last of the great exchanges is the Consolidated,
on the corner of Pearl and Beaver. It is essentially sim-
ilar to the regular exchange, except that it deals more
largely in small and odd lots — a sort of retail annex,
as it were. The building derives additional interest from
the fact that it stands on the site of the residence of
Lord Sterling, who commanded the American troops at
the disastrous battle of Long Island, but saved them
from capture by brilliant maneuvering. He is buried
in Trinity.

There are a number of tablets in this vicinity which
we might look at before returning to Wall Street and
starting uptown. At Broad and Beaver is one to Marinus
Willet, which marks the site of the seizure of arms by
the Sons of Liberty from the British in 1775. At 73
Pearl Street is one to mark the site of the first City
Hall erected by the Dutch under Governor Kieft, known
as the Stadt Huys (1653). The weather vane on this
old building was saved at its destruction in 1699 and
finally came into the possession of Washington Irving,
who kindly bequeathed it on his death to the Society

114

The East River. Penns>lvaiua on way lo Bruuklyn >;avy Yard

The Seaman's Church Institute. Memorial Fountain to brave

Jack Binns and other heroes of the saddest ^of sea

tragedies, the sinking of the "Titanic"

of St. Nicholas, in whose custody it now is. This old
Dutch City Hall was succeeded by the one already de-
scribed on the corner of Wall Street and Nassau.

At No. 90 is a tablet commemorating one of the most
destructive fires that ever visited any city — the great
fire of 1835, which destroyed over twenty million dol-
lars worth of property, an almost unbelievable sum for
these days. How New York ever survived such a calam-
ity is hard to understand. This fire, however, did much
to hasten the construction of the Croton Aqueduct,
whereby running water in houses became possible, a
public benefit which ultimately proved of greater value
in many ways than the huge loss caused by this fire.

The rather wide street at Coenties Slip is now a small
public park — the Jeanette, named after the Herald's
Arctic Expedition ship. In the filling-in process of this
slip, part of the original fleet of canal boats lie buried,
that came from Buffalo to New York Harbor bringing
casks of Lake Erie water to mingle with the Atlantic.
The magnificent building on the corner of South Street
is the far famed Seaman's Institute, which looks after
the welfare of Jack ashore. It has been of inestimable
benefit to this element, and its admonition to "WRITE
HOME," which greets you on almost every floor of
the splendid buildings is only one of the really prac-
tical good things it has done. A magnificent lantern,
on a tower of the roof, discernable thirty miles from
shore, is a tribute to the fidelity of the officers and crew
of the ill fated Titanic. A tablet records the -main inci-
dents of this saddest of all sea tragedies.

The Broad Street Hospital and its Wonderful
New Additions

Near the heart of the financial district and counted a
distinct part of it is the Broad Street Hospital, a stone's
throw from the imposing building of the Seaman's In-

116

stitute. This institution overlooks the East River and
its rapid growth has been marvellous. Starting as a
small receiving hospital in 1914, it had its own building
only two years later. Its extended service now compels
the construction of additional units and by 1920 it will
occupy an imposing edifice, second only to Bellevue
Hospital. Although most of its cases come from the
financial district, there are a great many from along the
waterfront, so that the financier and the longshoreman
are treated side by side.

The first of these new units is to be dedicated to
Colonel Theodore Roosevelt; the last to the late Mr.
Harry S. Harkness. The first, or original, unit has
been named after Herbert Barber, brother of James Bar-
ber, of whom Dr. A. J. Barber Savage, superintendent,
recently wrote, in dedicating a treatise on group medi-
cine:

"This work is respectfully inscribed as a token
of affectionate esteem and in acknowledgment of
that generous financial and moral support prompted
by his interest in medical science and that far-
sighted vision which made possible the Broad Street
Hospital."

In the matter of its sponsors the Broad Street Hos-
pital is exceedingly fortunate. While the completed list
is not yet ready for publication, it is certain that the
future board of governors will contain the names of
many men celebrated in the world of finance and pro-
duction. That Henry L. Doherty, Charles E. Danforth,
Elisha Walker, James Barber, Oakley Wood, Dr. Wil-
liam H. DiefFenbach, William Hamlin Childs, Col. Wal-
ter Scott, Edward L. Wemple, George C. Luebbers,
Hon. Charles Strauss, Julien Stevens Ulman, and Dr.
Robert T. Morris are already, and have been, associated
with the Broad Street Hospital is suggestive of the list
as it will appear when finished. No hospital in this
respect will be so richly endowed.

118

The Eastern Hotel, a block from the Seaman's Insti-
tute, is one of our oldest buildings and the oldest hotel
in town. The beams are of solid mahogany, brought
from South America as ballast. In former years it was
a notable hostelry and entertained Daniel Webster, Rob-
ert Fulton, Jenny Lind, Commodore Vanderbilt and
other notables.

There are quite a few interesting things still to be
seen in this neighborhood, but I have covered the most
important. In front of the building at the corner of
South William and Beaver Streets are four ancient mar-
ble columns brought from Pompeii by the late Lorenzo
Delmonico in 1840, whose downtown restaurant occupied
this building. At No. 13 South William Street is a
house built in imitation of the old Dutch style. This
is the real estate office of the Amos R. Eno Estate,
whose father built the Fifth Avenue Hotel.

At 51 Whitehall Street is a tablet to mark the old
Whitehall Ferry, where Washington sailed for Mt. Ver-
non after taking leave of his officers at Fraunces' Tav-
ern, as already described. Whitehall Street was named
after Stuyvesant's town house "White Hall," which stood
near the corner of Pearl and Whitehall Streets. At 23
another tablet marks the site of the home of the most
noted preacher in the early days of the Dutch Church,
Dominie Bogardus. His wife, Anneke Jans, owned the
celebrated farm which ultimately became the property
of Trinity Church. One of Anneke's sisters was not quite
competent mentally, and was not present at the time
the will was read disposing of the farm to Trinity
Church. It is on this alleged circumstance that all this
litigation against Trinity arose. For nearly a century
unscrupulous lawyers have fattened on the credulity of
the heirs of Anneke Jans by claiming that this fact ren-
dered the will null and void. The prospect of owning
a couple of miles of property in the heart of New

119

York is very alluring and no wonder the poor wretches
succumbed to the temptation. Notwithstanding that a
law has been passed by the State of New York to pro-
hibit any further suits being brought against Trinity
on this, or any other ground so far as their property
is concerned, the nuisance has not yet wholly abated.

We have now quite thoroughly explored the financial
district and will continue our trip up Broadway to the
City Hall.

120

A view on Fulton Street, named after the inventor of tiio
steamship. Looking east, St. Paul's churchyard on left.

Underhill

I ^^ m.-^ mm

OUR CIVIC CENTER

Broadway North from Trinity Church to the
City Hall

OLD ST. Paul's, the post office, the astor house, the wool-
wort BUILDING, TAMMANY HALL, NEWSPAPER ROW, PRINTING
HOUSE SQ'UARE, THE MUNICIPAL BUILDING, HALL OF
RECORDS, THE TOMBS, ETC., ETC.

l^fORTH of Trinity is a magnificent building named
^ after the church. It is in gothic architecture and
one of the most notable in appearance on Broadway.
Adjoining it is the Realty Building and beyond that at
Thames Street is a tablet marking the site of a famous
tavern in Revolutionary days, Burns' Coffee House,
headquarters of the Sons of Liberty of whom, more here-
after. Then comes the well-known Singer Building, the
first to possess a tower of important height.

Years ago on Broadwa}'-, about opposite the great
Singer Building, stood a cluster of buildings which re-
calls another curious feature of old Broadway — the mar-
kets. This one became known as "Oswego Market."
It became a great nuisance and finally the Common
Council ordered its removal to the river front near Cort-
landt Street, where it changed its name to Washington
Market. By that name every New Yorker knows it, but

122

Unique view near the municipal centre of New ^ork. The Post

Office, Municipal Building in the middle distance. Park

Row Building and old Astor House, Woolworth

Building on the left and St. Paul's Building

on the right. Note how small St. Paul's

Church appears in the centre

few realize that it has an ancestry almost as ancient
and honorable as any institution in New York.

The Hudson Terminal Buildings^ the City Investing
Building, the Title Guarantee Trust Company, the
Broadway Maiden Lane Building, the Lawyers' Title
Insurance Company, old St. John's Church, the father
of Methodism in America, just off Broadway on John
Street, the wonderful new building of the American
Telegraph and Telephone Company on the site of the
old Western Union structure, the great National Park
Bank and the St. Paul Building, complete the notable
structures between Trinity and St. Paul's Chapel. St.
Paul's Chapel is our oldest church edifice now standing.
Built in 1766, it ranks high among our few colonial
treasures.

Old St. Paul's Chapel

Curiously enough, the Broadway end of the building
is the rear, for the church was built fronting on the
river; and in the old days a pleasant lawn sloped down
to the water's edge, which was then on the line of
Greenwich Street. One effect of St. Paul's thus looking
away from Broadway, is to give us at the portal an
increased sense of remoteness from the great thorough-
fare and of isolation from its strenuous life, so that
all the more readily we yield to the pervading spell of
the churchyard's peaceful calm. It is modeled after
St. Martin's in the Fields, London.

After the burning of Trinity in 1776, St. Paul's be-
came the parish church; here worshipped Lord Howe
and Major Andre and the English midshipman who was
afterward King George IV. After his inauguration at
Federal Hall in Wall Street, President Washington and
both houses of Congress came in solemn procession to

124

St. Paul's^ where service was conducted by Bishop Pro-
vost, Chaplain of the Senate, and a Te Deum was sung.
Thereafter, so long as New York remained the capital,
the President was a regular attendant here; his diary
for Sunday after Sunday contains the entry: "Went
to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon." Washington's
pew remains today as it was then; it is midway of
the church on the left aisle, and is marked by the Arms
of the United States on the wall. Across the church
is the pew which was reserved for the Governor of
the State, and was occupied by Governor Clinton ; above
it are the State Arms. The pulpit canopy is ornamented
with the gilded crest of the Prince of Wales, a crown
surmounted by three ostrich feathers. It is the only
emblem of royalty that escaped destruction at the hands
of the Patriots when they came into possession of the
city in 1784.

In the wall of the Broadway portico, where it is seen
from the street and is observed by innumerable eyes
daily, is the ISIontgomery Monument, in memory of
Major-General Richard Montgomery, who commanded
the expedition against Canada in 1775, and on Decem-
ber 31st of that year, in company with Colonel Benedict
Arnold (afterwards the traitor), led the assault upon
Quebec, where he fell, mortally wounded. Aaron Burr
bore his body from the field, and the Englisl men gave
it a soldier's burial in the city. Forty-three years later,
in 1818, Canada surrendered the remains to the United
States. At that time Mrs. Montgomery, in the forty-
third year of her widowhood, was living near Tarrytown
on the Hudson. Governor Clinton had told her of the
day when the steamboat Richmond, bearing her hus-
band's remains, would pass down the river; and sitting
alone on the piazza of her home she watched for its
coming. With what emotions she saw the pageant is
told in a letter written to her niece:

125

St. Paul's Chapel and American Telephone & Telegraph Co. building
on Broadway and Dey Street.

"At length they came by with all that remained of a
beloved husband, who left me in the bloom of man-
hood, a perfect being-. Alas! how did he return? How-
ever gratifying to my heart, yet to my feelings every
pang I felt was renewed. The pomp with which it was
conducted added to my woe; when the steamboat passed
with slow and solemn movement, stopping before my
house, the troops under arms, the Dead March from the
muffled drums, the mournful music, the splendid coffin
canopied with crepe and crowned with plumes, you may
conceive my anguish. I cannot describe it."

Curiously enough^ Mrs. Montgomery and Mrs. Ham-
ilton each survived the deaths of their husbands nearly
fifty years. And what changes they witnessed !

St. Peter's Church, corner Church Street and Barclay,
is the oldest Roman Catholic church building in Man-
hattan, established 1786. It has a tablet to Governor
Dongan, who obtained the first charter for New York,
giving the people a voice in the general government.

Next comes the post-office, which is directly opposite
the Woolworth Building. Inside the street corridor is
a bronze bust and memorial to Postmaster Pearson, who
did much to remove this branch of the public business
from political spoilsmen. Near the Western entrance
is a tablet to commemorate the site of the old Lib-
erty Pole, erected by the Sons of Liberty in 1765. It
stood just North of the post-office. The present build-
ing was completed in 1876, but is already superseded
by an up-to-the-minute structure opposite the Pennsyl-
vania Station on Eighth Avenue, and the building you
are now looking at may soon be a thing of the past.

A movement to remove the post office and to re-erect
the old Liberty Pole which stood in the park in Revolu-
tionary days, as a war memorial to the Liberty Boys of
1918 is also underway. A group of ol 1 New Yorkers has
the project in charge. A more detailed account of this
important undertaking is given in a special chapter.

Emerging from the post-office and continuing up
Broadway, we pass the old Astor House, for more than

127

half a century the wonder of New York and the best-
known hotel m this part of the world. It is now an
office building. Across the street is perhaps the most
beautiful and impressive building ever erected for purely
commercial purposes, the Woolworth Building. No
greater tribute to the worth of small things could be
devised, for all the world knows that it was built out
of the profits of the five-and-ten-cent stores, and that
within thirty days after completion it was free and
clear of all debts or liabilities of any kind. It is sup-
posed to have cost between seven and eight millions.

While we are in this building we might speak of the
genuine pleasure that the tourist may derive from a
visit to any of the numerous towers in certain high
buildings which are now available. Constructed origin-
ally for ornament, these towers have turned out to be
the best revenue producers contained in the building.
Some are said to earn a hundred thousand dollars a year.
The individual fee, however, is very slight, fifty cents,
and the visitor can nowhere receive so much for his
money as in a visit to either the Singer, Metropolitan
or Woolworth Towers.

It is a veritable aeroplane trip with none of the
dangers of the real thing. We are many hundred feet
up in the air, and it will give you something really inter-
esting to talk about for the rest of your days. This
ascent is made in regular passenger elevators part way,
from which point you ch'ange for another set of elevators
that carry you the remaining distance to the top. What
happens when you step out on to the balcony of the
tower and gaze at the city in the distance below is
something that is not easily described. If the weather
happens to be one of those wonderfully beautiful days,
clear and without a cloud in the sky, as so frequently
happens in New York," the scene is bewildering. There
is first an uncanny quietness all about you — the roar

128

and the noise of the street completely disappear. Roads
that seemed packed with people now seem to have quite
considerable patches of space between the crowds, and
the figures are dwarfed till they look like little ants
running hither and thither. It is quite a thrilling expe-
rience.

Opposite the Post Office on the East side is the huge
30-story Park Row Building, which stands on the site
of one of New York's oldest theatres — the Park. An
alley at the rear, still called Theatre Alley, was orig-
inally the stage passage to the theatre. Junius Brutus
Booth, Edmund Kean, Edwin Forrest, Fanny Elssler,
Fanny Kemble, and other noted stars were seen here. A
grand ball was given to Charles Dickens during his visit
in 1842. Its memory is still kept green in New York.

Opposite the City Hall is the entrance to the Brooklyn
Bridge, the first and most famous of all the bridges
spanning the East River. A very excellent view of the
city may be had from the tower on the New York side.
It is a short walk on the promenade. Both trolleys and
elevated trains cross the bridge, but so many pillars
and posts are in the way that any attempt to obtain
a good sight of the river and bay is foredoomed to
failure. Do not attempt to make use of the bridge dur-
ing the rush hours. That is sacred to the mob.

The fountain that stands in the park is located a little
north of where the first fountain stood, which was erected
in 1842, when running water was first introduced into
New York.

The building corner of Frankfort Street and Park
Row, occupied for sixty years by the "Sun" is on the
site of the original Tammany Hall headquarters. This
was their first permanent location. As this is rather a
famous organization, both outside of New York as well
as in it, perhaps some details regarding its origin may
not be amiss. It came into existence in 1789. Colonel

129

Striking effect of the Woolworth Building at night.

Marinus WiUett, one of our earliest Mayors had been
n the South negotiating a treaty ^ith the Creek Indian
Ind returned to New York with one of their chiefs and
twenty-eight warriors of the tribe. They were received
wTmuch enthusiasm all along the route and ^^en they
Teached New York imagine their surprise to be met and
welcomedapparently by a brother tribe At all events,
rdergation greeted them dressed in full Indian cos-
tum bucktaifs and all, which assumed entire charge
of the proceedings and conducted the puzzled Creeks to
FederafHall and into the presence of the G-at White
Father' Such was the first appearance of Tammany
HaU in the annals of New York. It was a eleven piece
of advertising and proclaimed the existence of the long
expected rival Democratic organization to the rather
aristocratic Society of Cincinnati, presided over by
Washington, Hamilton and others.

Opposite the Sun is the World Building, from whose
tower a magnificent view of lower New York and the
Harbor may be had. This section is known as News
paper Kow/' most of the large dailies havmg their pub^
lication offices here. Frankfort Stree, going East from
this corner, was named after the birthplace of Jacob
Leisler, the only man to meet death for a purely polit ca
offense in all the history of this city. Jacob Street, just
below William, is named after his son-in-law, who per-
ished with him. This occurred in 1691 and the State
later acknowledged its error by restoring the f amily s
property. A statue of Benjamin Frankhn patron saint
of fhe printers, stands in the middle of the open space
fronting the Tribune Building and which is known as
Printing House Square.

In Duane Street, just east of Park Row is another
related branch of the great dailies-the Newsboys Lodg-
ino- House-a most worthy organization. Besides car-
ing for many homeless waifs and providing warmth and

131

shelter in the winter months, it affords comfortable, clean
rooms all through the year. At Christmas they have a
Christmas dinner that long ago became famous. This
is quite an old institution for New York, as it was
founded by J. Loring Brace in 1853. It is now admin-
istered bv the Children's Aid ^^oeirtv.

132

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^^■hLhms . -itfl - ■'' \1-'^ ■- ■ 'im

HK^^'1

bills: g $ s r s^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^HBH

The Crush at Brooklyn Bridge Every Night Opposite City Hall.

OUR CITY HALL
TUT A VI NG explored the surrounding environmenL we
-*- -■- will now enter the City Hall itself. It is open to
visitors from 10 to 4 on week days and 10 to 12 on
Saturdays.

Ascending the steps, the visitor finds himself in a
central rotunda, with curving stairs leading to a circu-
lar gallery on the second floor. In this gallery, on the
north side stands a statue of Thomas Jefferson. On
the south side, opposite the stairs, is the entrance to the
Governor's Room, now held ready for the Governor of
the State when he visits New York.

The furniture in these rooms, of solid mahogany, con-
sists of the original chairs and tables used in the old
Federal Building at Wall and Nassau Streets. Through
a donation of Mrs. Russell Sage in 1909 and Mr. George
McAneny, with subsequent gifts amounting altogether to
$65,000, these rooms have been restored to their original
serene and simple dignity. The few ornaments, clocks,
candlesticks, etc., on the mantel shelves, while not his-
torically associated with City Hall, have been sought

134

out with much pains and are strictly of the correct period
and appropriate in style. One of the valued relics here
shown is a portion of a limb of Peter Stuyvesant's pear
tree.

The building possesses two desks used by Washington
in Federal Hall and is filled with a large number of
portraits by Trumbull^ Inman, Weir and other well
known artists. They are mostly of persons connected
with the City or State of New York, Mayors of New
York, Governors, etc., also a goodly representation of
historic characters not necessarily New Yorkers. The
attendant in the Governor's room has been in charge
many years and takes great pleasure in explaining all the
attractions of the building to those who express an inter-
est in them.

The present City Hall is the third building erected
by the city (1812) for the administration of the muni-
cipal affairs. The first was the Stadt Huys, at the cor-
ner of Pearl Street and Coenties Slip, erected by the
Dutch originally and continued by the English. It was
demolished in 1700 and the new building at the corner
of Wall and Nassau Streets took its place. It was suc-
ceeded by the one we are now visiting (1812).

Almost every important happening of an official char-
acter takes place at the City Hall and the list of its
famous receptions is a very long one. Nearly every big
visitor to the United States lands here first, from Lafay-
ette to the distinguished returning soldiers, who are here
decorated by the Mayor in the presence of notables
and the public; so it makes history all the time. Gen'i
Pershing and King Albert were among the latest.

The offices of the Mayor and the Borough President
are still maintained in the City Hall, but the great army
of clerks required to conduct the city's business are
housed in an entirely different building. When it is
remembered that eighty-five thousand persons are on the

135

city's permanent pay roll and that this number some-
times is increased to one hundred and twenty thousand
temporarih'^ it will be readily seen that the city's needs
have tremendously outgrown the office facilities provided
for it in 1812.

There are many other interesting things to see in the
City Hall which, for lack of space^ we are unable to
enumerate here^ such as the punch bowf used at the
Erie Canal celebration and various other old mementoes
of the city's past.

Outside the building is a tablet recording the fact
that the Declaration of Independence was read to the
Continental Army here, July 9th, 1776, General Wash-
ington being present. Another tablet brings us sharply
to more prosaic things by marking the spot where ground
was first broken in the construction of the subway. The
statue of Nathan Hale by MacMonnies is one of our
most cherished possessions and is well worth a visit by
any one at all interested in that splendid character.

The Municipal Building

Leaving the City Hall we walk a short distance to
Chambers Street, where stands the workshop of the city,
to which we have just referred, and which is officially
known as the Municipal Building. Some 7,500 city
clerks are employed here.

It is a huge structure, 450 by 300 feet. It is 40
stories high, or 564 feet. It cost about twelve million
dollars. A wide vaulted passage allows for the con-
tinuation of Chambers Street through the building. It
is striking architectually, and its massive sculpture is
very impressive.

It has not much attraction for the sightseer, as it is
strictly a business office building and devotes all its time
to the work of the day. The Marriage License Bureau
and the marrying facilities are all that is out of the
usual.

136

Mayor Hylan greets the young Prince on the steps of the City Hall

and presents him with the freedom^ of the City, thereby

makine^ him a New Yorker.

u. & u.

Beyond the great Municipal Building is another
quaint little bit of the city's oddities — the little red brick
Catholic Church of St. Andrews, the rector of which is
also Chaplain of the City Prison. Every morning at 2
A. M. mass is said here for the benefit of night work-
ers in this neighborhood and a goodly attendance is the
general rule. To those unacquainted with this phase of
metropolitan existence, the great number of persons who
work at night and sleep in the day is a matter of great
surprise. Bryan once made a speech to this class of
our population and was surprised to find an audience
that filled Printing House Square and extended well
back into City Hall Park. St. Andrew's is a land mark
downtown and greatly beloved. The residence of Gov-
ernor Alfred E. Smith is within a short distance from
St. Andrew's, which he occasionally attends.

At present a large clear space extends from St. An-
drew's back several blocks. This is the site chosen for
the new County Court House. The accepted design
shows a building modeled after the Coliseum at Rome,
and when carried out New York will have a civic centre
of great beauty. Nothing can be done, however, to carry
out this scheme till the ugly post office is removed.

Toward the bridge entrance is another tablet to mark
the former site of another of New York's famous Revo-
lutionary buildings, removed to make room for the sub-
way — the old Register's Office, built in 1758 as a debt-
ors' prison. During the Revolution this building was
used as a military prison by the British, among whom
was no less a personage than Ethan Allen, conquerer of
Ticonderago. It was torn down in 1903 and thus dis-
appeared another old landmark.

Back of the City Hall still stands Bill Tweed's six
million dollar Court House. A meaner looking build-
ing for the money was never built. It ought to come
down. The room is needed and surely if we can afford

138

to dispense with a historic structure like the Register's
Office we can afford to be without a reminder of the
swindling activities of the Tweed Ring. With this
building and the Post Office removed, the park would be
restored to its graceful proportions of Colonial days.

Another municipal structure, the new Hall of Rec-
ords, on Chambers Street, opposite the City Hall, is con-
spicuous by the statues of Duane, Colden, Hine, Heath-
cote, Stuyvesant, De Vries and Clinton — all eminent
New Yorkers of bygone days. The allegorical, groups
represent the purchase of Manhattan in 1626 and con-
solidation of the greater city in 1898. The interior of
the building is of great interest. The records cover
practically every phase of the city's history since the
beginning. Its collection of old Dutch maps and other
items of earliest days is very complete. Inspection of
these old documents is readily permitted.

The large building west of the Hall of Records is the
old store of New York's first Merchant Prince, A. T.
Stewart. In the 40's this was the retail store, but later
the establishment at Broadway and Ninth Street was
erected. In its day the Stewart business was unique
for size and earning capacity. Stewart is buried in old
St. Mark's Church. His bodj^ was stolen shortly after
it was interred and the crime was the sensation of the
day. The building was recently purchased by Mr. Frank
A. Munsey, the publisher, who will soon erect upon it a
buildng to house the Sun and his other publications. The
Emigrant Industrial Savings Bank, east of the Stewart
Building, is a very rich and conservative institution.
The Martin B. Brown Co., a famous city printer, who'
prints election ballots, etc., has the adjoining establish-
ment.

North of the City Hall along Centre Street are some
important public buildings that are worth a visit. In
the block facing Centre, Leonard, Lafayette and Frank-

139

lin Streets is the Toinbs or City Prison. The span con-
necting the buildings is popularly known as the "Bridge
of Sighs/' as prisoners after receiving sentence return
over this bridge and get their last glimpse of freedom
from here. A permit to visit the prison may be obtained
upon application to the Department of Correction, 224
Leonard Street. Some interesting mural decorations are
contained in the rooms of the Supreme Court.

Just above the Tombs is the Headquarters of the Po-
lice Department, which contains the famous Rogues'
Gallery and the room where the daily lineup of criminals
takes place so that the detectives may scan their features
for future reference. Other rooms are for the usual
requirements of such a department. A large mural
painting over the judge's desk in the trial room portrays
the same site in early times*

This building stands on the site of what was formerly
a miniature lake — the Collect Pond. It was 60 feet deep
and on it John Fitch sailed the first model of a steam-
boat while Fulton and Livingston viewed the trial from
the bank. Fulton's attempt succeeded while Fitch's
failed, but many persons believed that the idea was the
latter's originally, but he did not secure the financial
backing necessary to develop his plans, while Fulton did.

East of this group of buildings is an Italian section
and the much vaunted Chinatown. The civilizing in-
fluence of Columbus Park, in conjunction with adequate
police supervision, has made this region much less crim-
inal than formerly. Baxter Street, too, is now eminently
respectable, while the Five Points is perfectly harmless.

142

m^i^

The French Mission Arrives — The late Joseph Choate escorting

Minister Viviani and Marshal Joffre from the famous

landing stage on the Battery to their reception

by Mayor Mitchel at the City Hall.

Tremendous crowd that showed Field Marshal Joffre how much New

\ ork adinired the great French General. Scene outside the

City Hall when the French Mission arrived.

/f^ T„t i.-

Ncw-yorit May 20, 1 766.

Joy to AMERICA !

At 3 this Day arrived here an Exprefs from Bojlo^
v/ith the following mod glorious News, on which
//. Gawe congratulates the Friends oi America.
Bojlorjy Friday ii o'Clock, i6th May, 1766.

This Day arrived here the Brig Harrifon^ belong-
ing to yohn Hamock^ Efq; Capt. Shutael Coffin y
in 6 Weeks and 2 Days from London y with the
following moft agreeable Intellicrence, viz.

Broadside Announcing Repeal of the Stamp hc^

THE FAMOUS OLD LIBERTY POLE
IN CITY HALL PARK

Tl^HEN the present-day New Yorker regards the
^ seething bustle of people and traffic with City
Hall Park as a center, and the diminutive cupola of City
Hall completely overshadowed by the towering Wool-
worth Building and the other neighboring skyscrapers, it
is somewhat difficult to realize that our city was for over
a hundred years a little less than a rude hamlet on the
outskirts of a howling wilderness. Pigs were the main
reliance for keeping the streets clean, and as a result
yellow fever devastated the village at regular intervals.
In 1723, almost a century after its settlement, the white
population was only 5,886, with about 1,500 slaves — con-
siderably less than is housed in our Municipal Building
of today. Pumps were in the middle of the street. The
Fire Department consisted of a number of leather buck-
ets kept by each citizen in the front hall.

145

To the Inhabitants of this City.

WHEREAS fomc unhappy Differences have lately hap-
pened bctvveen the Inhabitants aiid the Soldiers ; I am
authorized to inform tlie FubHck, That to avoid the
like for the future, Orders are ifl'ued by the Gi-.neral, That no
Soldiers arc to go out of their Barracks, off Duty, unlcfs under the
Command of a Non-commiirioned officer, who is to be anfwerahlc
for the orderly Behaviour of the Soldiers, and take Care tiiat they
oflbr no Infuit to the Inhabitants ; and this Order will be ftnC^ly
obferved till the Amity and Fricndfhip that (lioulJ fubfill among
the King's Subjedls, is rcftored ; and in Cafe the Citizens aSufe
thorn, they are to endeavour to difcover the Oti'eiidcrs, and report
them to a Magiflrate, that they mri) he proceeded againlt ac-
cording to Law ; Therefore when Soldiers are fecn marching a-
bout in Numbers, the Inhabitants are not to be akirrned, as it
will be in Confequence of the above-mentioned Or.'crs. Tnis
Precaution it is hoped, will prevent further l\:!5, fcllc^re Peace,
and quiet the Minds of the People ; and It is expcc^-uc!,,, that the
Inhabitants, on their Parts, will promote every good Infcnticn to
prcfcrve Peace and good Order.

Jffri^;^' W. HICKS, Myw.

Broadside, apologizing for the assaults committed by the soldiers on the
Sons of Liberty in defense of the Liberty Pole.

While the "palisade" stretched across the city through
what is now Wall Street, the settlers used to drive their
cattle through the Land Gate just above Trinity Church
up Broadway to City Hall Park, then called the Com-
mon Lands, or public pasture. The city owned the land
and any one could use it who wished. After a while,
the jail was built upon it and the poor house and what
there was of a hospital. Other city buildings like those
on Randall's Island were added later.

There were no newspapers, and current events trav-
elled by word of mouth or by "Broadsides" pasted up
in taverns or on the trees of the "Common" or "Fields."
It was exactly a whole century after the settlement be-
fore the first weekly paper was started — the Gazette, in
1725, by William Bradford. It was subsidized by the
Crown and not till the appearance of John Peter Zeng-
er's Journal, some years later, was there a real "peo-
ple's" paper.

The Journal had the assurance, several times, to criti-
cize what the authorities did and was promptly sup-
pressed for its temerity. Finally its editor was thrown
into jail. This caused great excitement through all the
Colonies, and Andrew Hamilton, the greatest lawyer of
his day, came from Philadelphia to defend the Journal.
He succeeded in clearing Zenger, and thus was won a
tremendous victory for liberty, as it established the
Freedom of the Press.

In the meantime, the City Hall Park became by com-
mon consent, the rallying place for all public meetings.
The passage of the Stamp Act in 1765 caused intense
anger from one end of the Colonies to the other, and
the repeal of this obno'xious measure was everywhere
demanded. Public indignation found expression in
numerous meetings in the "Fields."

During the course of the debate in Parliament, a
friendly member used the term "Sons of Liberty" in

147

referring to the American Colonists. This name was
immediately adopted by numerous secret organizations
which sprang at once into existence while the fate of
the repeal was in doubt. When the King finally sur-
rendered and a peaceful settlement ensued, the grateful
people of New York held a huge Thanksgiving meeting
on the Commons and, amid great enthusiasm, erected a
high pole bearing the inscription, "The King, Pitt and
Liberty" — the first Liberty Pole, around which for some
time to come the people rallied at the first sign of any
attempt to again impose Taxation without Representa-
tion.

This being the outward and visible sign of inward hos-
tility to autocracy, the Liberty Pole met with much dis-
favor by the authorities. In a few days this pole was
cut down by soldiers attached to the 28th Regiment, then
stationed here in the local barracks. The next day,
while the citizens were preparing to erect another pole,
they were attacked by the soldiers and several of the
Sons of Liberty were severely hurt. A second pole was
erected, but it suffered the fate of the first. Within
two days a third arose and this time it was allowed to
stand, as public opinion was again assuming a dangerous
aspect.

A year later when the citizens gathered to celebrate
the anniversary of the repeal of the Stamp Act, the
meeting aroused the anger of the authorities, and the
soldiers again leveled the pole to the ground. And an-
other pole — this time more substantial and bound with
iron rings — rose in its place. It stood for three years.
On January 13, 1770, an attempt to destroy this pole
led to very serious consequences. The soldiers were
driven off but returned with reinforcements and attacked
a party of Liberty Boys in front of their Headquarters
opposite the Commons. They were ordered back to their
barracks, but renewed the fight two days later. This

148

encounter suddenly assumed alarming proportions and
the conflict lasted two days, in which several lives were
lost. Thus was spilled the first blood of the Revolu-
tion, and it occurred two months before the Boston
massacre. New York rarely speaks of it as an event of
the first importance, yet such it really was.

This pole, too, ultimately met the fate of its prede-
cessors. Matters had now reached such a stage that
something had to be done. In order to furnish no further
excuse for interference by the authorities, it was decided
to erect the pole on private ground just outside the limits
of the Common, but for all practical purposes still on
public land. The pole was outside the "Fields," but
the crowd stood on the Common. By reference to the
various Broadsides printed herewith by courtesy of the
New York Historical Society, you will be able to see
just how the people resented this interference with the
Liberty Pole and how they finally bought their own
plot of ground and erected a new pole on private prop-
erty.

The last pole was a substantial structure and stood
till after the Revolution. It was a huge mast, 44 feet
high, vrith a topmast 22 feet additional, and sunk twelve
feet in the ground. It was encased for two-thirds of
its length in iron bands and hoops firmly riveted together.
It was surmounted by a gilt vane bearing the words —
"Liberty and Prosperity," but with no reference to the
King, or loyalty, as in the first instance. The temper
of the people had radically changed.

An attempt to destroy this pole a few weeks later
precipitated another situation that threatened to rival
in seriousness the affair in which lives had already been
lost, and brought the authorities to a realization of con-
sequences which they were illy prepared to face. British
officers drove the soldiers back to their barracks and a
guard was placed about the pole. The soldiers involved

149

were sent South to Pensacola and the pole remained
unmolested until 1776, when the British took possession
of the city. It was then immediately destroyed. Before
this happened, however, Washington had the pleasure
of reading the Declaration of Independence to the as-
sembled citizens, almost at the base of the Liberty Pole.
A bronze tablet on the City Hall commemorates this
event.

From this brief chronology we see how closely the
Liberty Pole is identified with the stirring events that
led up to the destruction of Autocracy in the new world
(also under a German King, though on an English
throne). It has been suggested that the old post office be
removed and the historic Liberty Pole re-erected on its
site as a memorial to our heroes in the great World War.
What a magnificent tribute it would be to our splendid
boys, if we were able to erect to their memories this
simple monument that means so much. It stands for all
our dear country stands for. It is the Soul of America
and the symbol of our great Republic. It is the Gettys-
burg Speech visualized! Nor is it within the power of
marble or bronze to create a structure that would
approach it in spiritual beauty and meaning.

It seems only yesterday that we saw them marching

to camp, mothers, wives and sweethearts clinging to their

arms. And when they sailed away, three months later,

that inspiring toast, written by one of their number from

old Kentucky, Morrow Mayo, comes to mind:

"Here's to the Blue of the windswept North
When we meet on the Fields of France
May the spirit of Grant be with you all
As the Sons of the North advance!

Here's to the Gray of the sunkissed South
When we meet on the Fields of France
May the spirit of Lee be with you all
As the Sons of the South advance!

And here's to the Blue and the Gray as one
When we meet on the Fields of France,
May the spirit of God be with us all
As the Sons of the Flag advance!" *

150

On the base of the monument let there be inscribed
these words :

In Loving Memory of the
Liberty Boys of 1918

PEOPLE OF THB CITY OF NEW VOEK

Will the citizens of New York arise to this glorious
opportunity? The old City Hall Park restored to its
ancient grandeur! An obsolete and out of d^^ build
tag remfved, light, air and generous space taking its
place in a congested section !

This movement is now under way. Any citizen can
help with his approval and his moral support. Talk
about it to your neighbors. Bring it up in your schoo s
your clubs, your societies and your churches^ f you
are a member of a patriotic society bring >' *« fe at
tention of your officers Agitate! agitate! agitate JTh
Federal Government, heretofore deaf to all entreaties
to remove the Post Office, will heed the demand oiaU
the people for so obvious and so appropriate a monu
ment to its heroic dead !

Every week we should have some good speaker
preaching the Gospel of Sound, Patriotic, Amencanism
^t the To!t of the Liberty Pole. We need some rallying
^Uc^some fountain head of inspiration to counteract
The mischievious talk of the Bolshevist.

The New York Historical Society and the Sons of
the Revolution have assumed charge of this move-
ment to erect the Pole and eliminate ^e Post Offi e
and reports of their progress will be seen in the daily
press from time to time.

151

Broadway from Chambers Street North to
Forty-Second

From a tourist's point of view there is practically
nothing of interest in this section beyond the usual run
of building devoted to wholesale business. Aside from
its being our most notable street there is little else to
sav about it. Not till you come to S4th Street, which
marks the beginning of^he Great White Way, is there
anything except Grace Church worthy of special men-
tion. It is simply a long and busy street, just like doz-
ens of other similar thoroughfares.

There are rows and rows of monotonous buildings,
with many a derelict in between. There is nothing to re-
lieve the dull drab of existence, as the best sellers say,
except the sight of an occasional Christian firm name on
a siffn. This startling phenomena is readily recognized
by the silent gaping throng that gathers in front of it,
rooted to the spot, as it were, by the fascination of the
novelty.

There is a Broadwav Association that looks after the
welfare of this street and does what it can to wake up
some of the mediaeval landlords and bring this noted
thoroughfare into the position it rightly holds as the pre-
mier street of the Western World. Its present collec-
tion of worn-out dwelling houses, run-down "iron fronts
and motley array of taxpayers is far from creditable.

West of Broadwav opposite the City Hall, to the
River, and North to 14th Street, is now wholly given
over to business and shipping. The side streets are the
headquarters of various important industries and about
a dozen blocks are given over to the Dry Goods District.
At Hudson Street and to the river, Groceries, Canned
Goods, Produce, Poultrv and other kindred lines con-
gregate. Large loft buildings for manufacturing pur-
poses of a heavy nature are frequent, and as you ap-

153

proach nearer to the Village, signs of persons living here
are discernible. Most of them have been driven out, but
some remain, and lately they have been joined by others.
There is little, hovrever, of interest except perhaps the
site of old St. John's Church, which the cutting through
of Seventh Avenue, recently, has obliterated, till you
strike Greenwich Village and the beginning of Fifth
Avenue, at Washington Square.

We have now covered the principal points in the down-
town section. To get our exact bearing see map. We
have drawn a straight line at Chambers Street from
East to West, clear across the island. All the territory
South of this line is what we have just been over. We
shall now go East from the City Hall to the great East
Side, Chinatown and the Bowery.

154

SOUTH

Map Showing Down Town Section of New York from
. Chambers Street, (Northern line); to Battery
Park, (Southern).

NOTE. Broadway divides the city into two sections: Stand-
ing anywhere on Broadway and looking North all the side
streets on the right are referred to as the East side; on the left
all the streets are on the West side. Bear this in mind and it
will help you to locate yourself very easily.

Looking North on Broadway is uptown; looking South is
downtown.

The description begins at Battery Park and the Custom House,
takes in the River front both East and West, goes up Broadway
to Wall Street, through Wall and the whole financial district;
then back to Broadway and up to City Hall, ending at Chambers
Street.

155

THE GREAT EAST SIDE

THE GHETTO, THE BOWERY, CHINATOWN, THE ITALIAN QUARTERS,
THE BLACK BELT, ETC., ETC.

npHE "Great East Side" that you read so much about
-*■ in the papers, begins just a little East of the
Municipal Building and extends from about Chatham
Square and the Bowery, north to 14th Street and east
to the river in the downtown section. This is where
the "seething masses" live.

To those ethnologically inclined, a stroll through these
congested neighborhoods is no doubt interesting, but for
the average sightseer there is nothing beyond endless
crowds, more crowds, and still more crowds. For the
greater part they are Italians intermixed with Russian
Jews, Chinese, Greeks, Swedes, Turks, Hunks, Bulgars,
Austrians, Serbs, Armenians, Slavs and Irish. These
make up the "East Side" of the novelist, and includes
the much talked of Ghetto. Open air pushcarts and kin-
dred sights are much in evidence. It is, of course, inter-
esting to see bits of ancient Europe so completely trans-
planted into a modern, up-to-the-minute city as New
York, and the quaint customs and the still quainter gar-
ments affected by the more orthodox of these aliens has
a certain amount of interest.

157

In this part of the city largely lives the species known
as Garment Workers. It is only natural, therefore, that
cloaks, suits, dresses and hats originally designed for
more aristocratic quarters should here appear in cheap
imitations. Division Street does quite a business in
cloaks and suits and — (tell it not in Gath) — the cus-
tomers do not all reside in the East Side.

Millinery Row is on Clinton Street, and extends from
Houston to Grand Street. The millinery shops here are
as thick as berries on a bush. There are as many as
sixteen stores on a single block, and so close to each
other that it seems like a continuous show window. It
also appears as if all the ladies' headgear had been called
in convention.

All the shops are styled either "French" or "Artistic."
The show windows are fitted out to imitate the Fifth
Avenue shops — parquet flooring, hats cocked at a coquet-
tish angle on carved stands, ivory-tinted backgrounds, a
blinding radiance of electric lights. They look very im-
pressive to the shop girl.

The priestesses who preside at these temples of style
are saleswomen of a very shrewd and "talky" type. They
flatter the looks of the customer. They have little ex-
clamations of admiration and gestures of wonderment
to deceive the unwary buyer. Their sales talk is a con-
stant repetition of "French imported, "chic," "charm-
ing," "it fits you beautiful," "awful nice" and other
words to beguile the uncertain in their choice.

In the matter of fixing a price, these saleswomen,
under the subtle tuition of the proprietress, become
adepts at "gouging." They will ask you two and three
times the normal value of the hat in the hopes of net-
ting a "sucker," and sometimes succeed. But those who
are accustomed to the wolfish greed of these milliners
drive a hard bargain, cutting the price asked in half or
one-third. The saleswoman, will then commence a song

159

The Great East Side

The push carts under the Manhattan Bridge. The great outdoor
market of the Ghetto.— A'. Y. Tribune.

of honeyed pleadings and try to wheedle a dollar or more
from the obdurate%urchaser. The wise, little buyer,
hoTever, presents a stony stubbornness to all her per-
suTstons and just as she makes up her mmd to leave,
the saUswoman eapitulates, after a last-minute-make-be-
lieve conference with the owner. . , , ,

The remainder of "Millinery Row" is mainly taken up
with stores catering to feminine needs in other depart-
ments-corsetieres, dressmakers, booterles, glove stores,
toUette supplies, ■Vedding-dresses-to-h.re establ.sh-
ments-in short, an elongated Vanity Fair.

Every etening the East Side girl promenades wim the
throngs up and down Millinery Row, indulging m an
orgy of window shopping, just like her sister on Fifth

Avenue.

The Colonel's lady and Judith O' Grady
Are sisters under the skm.

The open air markets are by long odds the most pie-
turesQue feature of the street scenes. They are seat-
tercTeve ywhe— the spaces under the Williamsburg
Bridge befng particularly active. Certain sections are
also known for "bargains.

The mecca of the East Side bargain hunter is a strip
of Orchard Street between Rivington ='"f 0/^"-^?;
Its curbs are forever lined with pushcarts laden with a
thousand and one variegated wares, piled high '" colo ful
profusion and vividly reminiscent of a" Oriental bazaar
in an "Arabian Nights" episode. Jostling and bolster
ous crowds are feverishly ranging up «"<! -lown he row
of pushcarts, and attracted to the wares by *!= /'"^ »"^
cry raised by the howling hawkers, women mill around
the pushcarts like whirlpools.

From morning until late into the night the turgid air
resounds with a loud and confused clamor of buymg and
selling; with the stentorian voices of the peddlers rising
like war cries above the babel.

161

Each cart is a separate entity in this conglomerate
„art and gathers about it. wheels a motley collection
"people. Some are collarless and flannel sorted ; some
aSinered and gowned in taffeta or broadcloth; others
wear shawls on their heads and skirts of calico

"Orchard Street" has become proverbia for cheap-
ness supplanting even "Hester Street," which was once
Popularly employed in this connection. If one wants o
Lsfa reaction on an article of apparel it ^ sneering y
referred to as having been purchased m Orchard
Street" Merchants who keep shops of the better class
u an effective method for despoiling customers who
want a thing much below the stipula ed P"-. TW
contemptuously advise them to go to O-^^d Street

Contrary to the general impression that the E^^t Sidt
is the abJde of want and poverty it is J -^ P0ss.be
that conditions are not quite so bad as we are led to

believe.

"It drives me off my bean," Patrolman Levine said on
the corn r of Rivington and Eldridge Streets, "to hear
fmUir people In'^The Bronx and other places|o
around telling how they pity the poor on the East hide_
lome of them get their pity from the Sunday stones of
feUows who git their information over the telephone.
The Ither people once lived on the East Side themselve^:
but they ain't keen about advertising it, so they go tut
tuttin' and pityin' like the rest."

In further proof of his contention, the policeman said
that out of thirty-six families in the house oppo-
site, not three would be found at home. He rapped at
many doors and only one responded.

"What did I say?" he asked triumphantly. Was any
one home? Nix, they all beat it as soon as their hu-
bands go to work. These houses are almost emptj.

163

They are out in the air— down at Coney Island or Rock-
away or Central Park. They go ear'ly, about 8 or 9
o clock. They come home late."

^ ''The women are bigger than the men/' he explained.
Ihat IS, mostly. The men can't complain with any re-
sults. The women aren't perfect housekeepers, but they
sure do like their kids. I guess that is what sends them
outdoors. People in other neighborhoods don't get the
air half as much. I wish I could show this to some of
those la-de-da writing guys."

It is doubtful if any city does so much in the direc-
tion of Welfare Work as New York for its poorer
citizens. Free sterilized milk for the children, free
clinics of all sorts, free classes where mothers are taught
how to properly care for their children, evening classes
for men, day nurseries and places where babies may
be kept under competent care while their mothers
go to work, free illustrated lectures for everybody.
Lectures on preventable diseases and a hundred and one
other aids are constantly at the service of these help-
less persons. The famous Henry Street Settlement
House is here; its methods and practices are copied in
every city in the Union, and is only one of the many
such similar institutions all over the city.

While we are not particularly keen about the East side
as a show section, we realize that it is full of strange
sights for the tourist and no doubt will vield a mild sen-
sation of novelty and entertainment. Yet if omitted, you
are quite sure sooner or later to see these same streets and
same neighborhoods in your local movies. This section
of our City seems to have an irresistible fascination for
the managers who decide what shall be shown in these
popular places of entertainment and so we invariably
have shown the sordid and squalid side of New York
instead of the beautiful. If in a lucid interval (if such

164

a boon is ever vouchsafed a movie producer) they would
at the same time shovr the perfectly splendid humani-
tarian work going on here, it would not be so bad.

In Public School 64, near Ninth Street and Avenue
B, are three select classes for exceptionally bright, al-
most precocious children. On the theory that it is as
necessary to separate the backward children into un-
graded classes, so is it equally necessary to segregate
the distinctly gifted. Selection is by means of the.Ter-
man mental test, which shows how smart you are. This
is a revision of the famous Binet-Simon scale used to
detect feeble minded in the courts, school and army.

These children are not necessarily the product of some
gem of purest ray serene, hidden by the dark, un-
fathomed caves of life in the tenement district of a great
city. Yet one of them gave a clue to his unconscious
source of power.

"My father," he said, "makes all the jokes in the
funny column in the Jewish paper. A man comes from
the paper every night and listens what my papa says,
because my papa can't write."

This is a most important step in the direction of public
school education and its working is being watched with
great interest. The development of the super intelli-
gence of these children is not confined to art, literature
or music, but is applied also to practical vocational in-
struction. So there is no danger of raising a class of
"prigs" to augment the numbers ground out of fashion-
able seminaries. In fact the West Side is also advertis-
ing special private instruction for the gifted among the
rich.

To stroll leisurely through Grand, Eldridge, Essex,
Clinton, Hester, Division, Henry or Forsyth Streets;
Avenue A, B or C, or any of the side streets from the
City Hall to 14th Street, is not without interest. Some
of the Sight Seeing Buses include part of this neigh-

165

borhood and that is the best way to see it. The names
of many of these East Side streets recall a time when this
section was the abode of Colonial Nobility. Hester
Street is named after Hester Bayard^ wife of a nephew
of Gov. Stuyvesant, whose farm covered a portion of this
region. Delancey Street after James de Lancey, whose
ancestors built Fraunces Tavern. Division Street marks
the line between the great Rutgers and de Lancey farms.
Oliver and James Streets are named for other members
of the latter family. Clinton, for De Witt Clinton,
creator of the Erie Canal, Mayor and Governor.

But there is little now to suggest the days of lace and
old lavender, yet the modest home of Alfred E. Smith,
Governor of the great State of New York, is at 25
Oliver Street, opposite Henry Street, within less than
half a minute's walk of Chinatown. Almost back of
Gov. Smith's house extending from Oliver Street to
New Bowery, is a very small burial ground, but rather
important. It is the first Jewish cemetery, the land for
which was granted as far back as 1656. It is about a
city lot in size, and almost hidden by the Elevated road.
A dead wall which looks into it covered by brilliant the-
atrical posters serves to emphasize the striking differ-
ence between the Quick and the Dead.

Chinatown.

With the famous "East Side" thus disposed of, let
us retrace our steps to the City Hall, pass over to
Chatham Square and walk uptown a few short blocks, to
Dover and Pell Streets. This is the celebrated Chinese
Quarter, and presents quite an Oriental aspect with its
curious architecture, glaring colors and huge laundry
tickets for signs. The iniquity of Chinatown is simu-
lated solely for the credulous tourist on the sight seeing
buses. The old feuds between the rival Tongs are a
thing of the past. Chinatown of to-day is no longer the

166

hot-bed of opium dens, vice and crime of former times,
and is only mildly interesting to the visitor. So much
however has been written concerning its wickedness that
it seems a pity to describe it as a perfectly harmless
locality depending upon legitimate patronage for its daily
existence. To give but one instance of its modern and
commercial aspect — the latest project under way is the
erection of a large clubroom for an association of Chi-
nese merchants. This building, when completed, will
cost about $100,000 and be six stories of the finest
Chinese architecture, coloring and furnishings. The
Joss House and the Theatre are still there and the dis-
cordant orchestra still continues to compete with the
elevated. But in other respects it is a perfectly respec-
table neighborhood compared with its former reputation.
It is worth the visit.

And "Hell's Kitchen," another gang rendezvous, has
likewise lost interest in crime.

"The neighborhood has all gone t' hell," said the flag-
man, as he soulfully waved a freight train past Thirty-
ninth Street on its way down Eleventh Avenue.

"Yip," he reflected, "there ain't much to this neigh-
borhood any more. We had one killin' last year, and that
was a mistake.

"Take a look at this avenoo," he continued. "It looks
like a bums' alley. There ain't nothin' doin' at all,
exceptin' maybe a few kids get fresh and throw rocks
from the roof. Patrolman Nolan was killed that way on
the block last year, but they weren't aimin' for him. He
just happened to be in the way, and from what I hear
they were sorry they did it. Wouldn't that kill yuh?
Sorry for murderin' a cop ! I wonder wot the old bunch
would t'ink about f eelin' sorry for crownin' a bull I

167

We have now seen two of the most talked of sections
in the city. We will now proceed to another and per-
haps the most famous of them all — the Bowery. In a
short time we have come from the most opulent part of
town to the most sordid. And that is typical of New
York and sometimes of its citizens — one day rich, the
next day poor.

In going through the wealthy sections, one of the
sights which must have puzzled the stranger — it is some-
thing of a problem to the home folks as well — is the
almost vanishing toilettes affected by the young business
women in the great office buildings.

Undoubtedly the furnishings and appointments in the
average office in our newest buildings are neat, clean
and verj^ attractive; there is little to suggest the old
time cubby hole with its dingy windows, Baltimore
heater, water pitcher, basin and bare, wooden floors
carpeted only with velvety layers of dust. And perhaps
the agreeable conditions interiorally are reflected in the
beauty of the display exteriorally.

Shimmery silks, fluffy laces, white kid boots with
French heels of the most altitudenous height, silk stock-
ings, low cut waists, short sleeves, shorter skirts, mani-
cured nails and marcelled hair with occasional elbow
length gloves and picture hats complete the costume of
many a secretary or stenographer I have encountered in
my myriad journeying up and down the elevators of the
great financial buildings. The faint odor of some de-
licious perfume is seldom lacking and one is sometimes
at a loss to know whether he is on business bent or has
accidentally stumbled into an afternoon tea or an even-
ing reception.

Personally I am glad of this cheerful change. I am
utterly indifferent as to whether it is good taste or bad.

Delmonico's Restaurant was the first business place
to employ a woman in New York. The "lady cashier"
excited comment for many a long day.

168

ifA:

ik^.^^-^.:^^

THE BOWERY

Leaving Chinatown, we emerge under a sombre
shadow cast by many elevated trains converging at the
junction of Chatham Square, Worth and Oliver Streets,
and find ourselves on the Bowery.

What a change has come over this erstwhile "hot bed
of carnival and crime," as the reporters used to call it!

Like many another far famed criminal locality the
poor Bowery has lost even that doubtful distinction.
McGurk's "Suicide Hall," "The Morgue," and the "Tub
of Blood," have all disappeared. It became so penitent
a while ago that it wanted to bury its dead past under
a new name — Central Broadway. Fortunately the craze
soon died out and the old lane which led to Stuyvesant's
farm is still preserved under its Dutch name and let us
hope will never be changed.

The noisy L reels by its dingy windows —

The "Lodging House for Men" —
And careless eyes may look upon its inmates

(They seldom look again).
Only a bunch of "has-beens," frayed and seedy,

Wanting a bath and shave;
Wastrels, who whistled down the wind of Fortune

The gifts that Nature gave.

Now, drawn together by the fatal current

Of life's Sargasso Sea,
Helpless they drift along, like human wreckage.

Yet dream that they are free;
Each morning sees them bent above a paper,

Their eyes intent and wide;
Each has a "hunch" that he will make "a killing"
Before the day has died.

169

Though startling stories deck the outer pages,

Their flaming headlines pale
Beside the interest of those fateful columns

That say: "Help Wanted — Male";
"Young" — "Strong" — "Ambitious" — "Full of pep
and ginger" —

(They scan them, one by one)
"Wanted: a man who is Alive — Aggressive";

(How much alike they run!)

The noisy L reels by its dingy windows —

The "Lodging House for Men" —
And those who rushed this morning to the City

Go rushing home again; •
But there they sit, in apathetic quiet,

As evening twilight falls,
While, cynically near their dingy lodging.

Shine out— the Three Gilt Balls!

Florence Van Cleve,

The Bowery extends from Chatham Square to Cooper
Square. Washington rested at the Bull's Head Tavern
on his entrance into New York in 1783. This site after-
wards became the famous Bowery Theatre. Aside from
the old theatre, there is little in it today to attract the
tourist. The entire character of the street has changed.
Even the old theatre has so long been the home of alien
tongues that it is difficult to imagine that it was once
one of the most fashionable play houses in town, and
that Forrest, Booth the elder; Charlotte Cushman, and
other eminent performers of another day held its boards.
Another theatre in the same neighborhood, the National,
where Cowperthwait's store now stands, divided honors
with the Bowery in those days. Here was first played
Uncle Tom's Cabin, and Geo. L. Fox in Humpty Dumpty,
delighted our grandparents, as nothing else has ever
seemed to do since.

The Bowery of history has its chief distinction in
that it was part of the old Boston Post Road, and led
to Governor Stuyvesant's farm "Petersfield," which stood
about the corner of Third Avenue and 12th Street. The

170

first mile stone which marked the distance to Boston, is
still standing opposite Rivington Street. There is little
else, however, to interest the reader till you come to the
neighborhood of Stuyvesant's old home, and to the
church founded by his widow.

St. Mark's Church, at Second Avenue and 11th Street,
stands on the site of a private chapel built b)^ Governor
Stuyvesant. The land was given (1687) to the Dutch
Church by Judith Stuyvesant, upon condition that the
vault be preserved. The old governor's tomb is beneath
the tablet erected to his memory. From time to time
his descendants are laid beside him. In the wall of the
Second Avenue side of this sacred edifice can be seen
the stone tablet marking his last resting place which
reads as follows:

"In this vault lies burled

Petrus Stuyvesant

Late Captain-General and Governor in
Chief of Amsterdam in New Netherland,
now called New York, and the Dutch West
India Islands. Died February A. D. 1 672,
aged 80 years."

There are also the graves of Governor Stoughtoi-
(1691), Governor Tompkins, Mayor Philip Hone, whose
famoul Diary is a mirror of New York Society in the
'40's and '50's. Dr. Harris, one of the earliest presidents
of Columbia College; Thomas Addis Emmett, a brother
of the great Irish patriot and founder of the great wealth
of the Emmett famih^ in New York today, and A. T.
Stewart, the great dry goods merchant whose body was
stolen. There are interesting memorial windows in the
old church, erected by the Holland Dames in honor of
Stuyvesant, Nicholas Fish, and Col. Tallmadge, whose
generosity secured old Fraunces' Tavern to the city.

172

The Friends Meeting House and School face St.
George's on the South. Occasionally there is still a
fashionable wedding solemnized here, after the custom
of the Friends. There is no minister or other religious
ceremony. The bride and groom simply proclaim be-
fore their friends their intention hereafter to live to-
gether as man and wife and sign a declaration to that
effect.

The section around old St. Mark's — Second Avenue,
Stuyvesant Square, etc., was at one time an exceeding-
ly exclusive residential district. Hamilton Fish, a mem-
ber of Grant's Cabinet, Wm. M. Evarts, Sec'y of State
under Hayes, and a very eminent lawyer, besides many
prominent families, lived here. Most of these old houses
have disappeared — some have been torn down, others re-
modeled into tenements, and two cf them into moving
picture houses. Nowhere in the city has a neighbor-
hood changed so completely.

There is another of the old milestones on Third Ave-
nue near 16th Street, and in the corner of 13th Street
is a tablet marking the site of a Pear Tree brought
over from Holland by Stuyvesant himself. It bore fruit
and survived the storms of over two centuries, but
finally succumbed to old age in 1868. Stuyvesant
Square, once a private park and part of the Stuyvesant
estate, is now a public possession. St. George's Church,
facing the Square, is the one in which the late J.
Pierpont Morgan served as vestryman for over fifty
years, and is the successor of St. George's Chapel in
Beekman Street, the first Chapel erected by Trinity.
The Middle Dutch Church nearby, corner Second Ave-
nue and 7th Street, is worth a visit. It is the successor
of old Rip Van Dam's Church on Nassau Street, where
the Mutual Life Building now stands. It has interesting
tablets to old Dutch officials. Peter Minuit, first Director
General and Elder in the original church then in the

173

Fort; to Rev. Jonas Michaeliiis, first minister^ and to
J. C. Lamphier^ founder of the famous Fulton Street
daily noonday prayer meeting. A tablet to the victims
of the sad Slocum disaster is also here. Most of the
children in that tragedy lived in this neighborhood, and
a thousand families were plunged into mourning. There
is another church nearly at 7th Street, the Seventh Street
M. E. Church, recalling early days. It was formerly the
Bowery village church, built in 1795. Two very old and
very respectable cemeteries are hard by. The New York
Marble Cemetery now almost forgotten, (41 Second
Avenue) but containing the graves of many prominent
families — Judsons, Bloodgoods, Lorillards, Grosvenor,
Wyckoff and Hollands. The New York City Marble
Cemetery on 2nd Street, east of Second Avenue (note
the similarity of names), is another half forgotten God's
Acre. In it lie James Lenox, Mrs. Paran Stevens, Pre-
served Fish. President Monroe and John Ericsson were
here for a while, but Monroe was removed to his native
State and Ericsson to Sweden. There is an interesting
old sun dial in the yard; and a scarcely decipherable
tablet which records that it was intended as a "place of
interment for gentlemen."

The good old days of this part of town are still in-
teresting to read about, but as in much else historical in
New York, the imagination must play an important part,
as there is nothing tangible left to look at.

Coming up Ninth Street, we reach Lafayette Place,
where part of La Grange's famous house old "Colonnade
Row" still stands. President Tyler married Julia Gard-
iner, of Gardiner's Island, here. John Jacob Astor lived
where the old library is ; Washington Irving, FitzGreene
Hallock and other celebrities lived in this "Row." The
Episcopal Diocesan House is also on this street. The
whole section stretching from Broadway to the Bowery
was formerly Vauxhall Gardens' a fashionable resort,

174

and frequently mentioned in old stories of New York.
Opposite Colonnade Row still stands the old Astor
Library. This building was abandoned when the con-
solidation with the New York Public Library was formed
and the books of the old Astor n^e now housed in the
beautiful building at Fifth Avenue and 42nd Street.

Cooper Union.

The hall of Cooper Union has witnessed many famous
gatherings and to this day it maintains its popularity.
In the days before the Civil War its walls echoed to
the plaudits of the Abolitionists like Beecher, Garrison
and Wendell Philips. Abraham Lincoln made his first
appearance before an Eastern audience in this place.
It is said that his speech here made him President. At
all events, Peter Cooper conferred a lasting good on
New York when he bequeathed her this noble gift. Some
Annex buildings have recently been added by the family,
greatly enlarging its usefulness.

From Pike Street to Tenth Street, along the East
River in the old days were to be seen splendid sailing
ships in every stage of construction. There were also
rigging lofts, sail lofts, block and pump makers, paint-
ers, carvers and gilders, iron, brass and copper workers;
mast and spar makers, and ship stores of all kinds. The
fresh odor of rough hewn lumber, seething Carolina pitch
and Stockholm tar, filled the air with healthful frag-
rance. For this was the day of the famous Yankee
Clipper, and New York was in the lead of ship builders.
The Flying Cloud, Sweepstakes, Andrew Jackson, N. B.
Palmer and Surprise are only a few of the many famous
square rigged beauties hailing from this port.

175

WOODEN SHIPS

They are remembering forests where thev grew:
The midnight quiet and the giant dance;

And all the singing summers that they knew

Are haunting still their altered circumstance.

Leaves they have lost, and robins in the nest.

Tug of the friendly earth denied to ships,
These, and the rooted certainties, and rest —

To gain a watery girdle at the hips.

Only the wind that follows ever aft,

They greet not as a stranger on their ways;

But this old friend, with whom they drank and laughed.
Sits in the stern and talks of other days.

When they had held high bacchanalias still.

Or dreamed among the stars on some tall hill.

—David Morton.

The famous yacht America, for whose cup there
is still a continual contest, was designed and built by
Henry Steers, whose yard was at the foot of about 12th
Street. All this section is now hum drum and prosaic
to an inordinate degree from a tourist's point of view,
and not worth a visit, unless you are absorbingly inter-
ested in big breweries, piano factories and lumber yards.
So we will resume our trip back to Union Square, where
Broadway and 14th Street commingle.

Going north from Cooper Institute we see two mam-
moth buildings occupied by John Wanamaker. The build-
ing between 9th and 10th Streets is the old Stewart
store. Grace Church adjoins Wanamaker's on the north,
and at one time stood at the head of Broadway. It is one
of our oldest churches, and its supporters are real old
New Yorkers. It is the proper thing to be married from
Grace Church at high noon. An open air pulpit in
memory of Dr. Huntington is interesting.

There is nothing particular beyond Grace Church un-
til you come to 14th Street. Here is the building oc-
cupied by that famous political organization, Tammany
Hall. This is the home of the present "braves". We
have given an account of their origin elsewhere in these
pages.

170

Adjoining Tammany is the old Academy of Music,
where Grand Opera was first given in New York^ and
where the famous Ball to the Prince of Wales was given
in 1860. The grandson of that Prince, recently in this
country, was taken to view this old scene of his ancestor's
visit to New York. The old decorations were restored
and the Academy made to look once again as it did on
that memorable occasion; the chair which was used by
the grandfather was also brought out for the grandson's
benefit. Some of the guests at that first ball were also
present. It was an interesting incident in the visit of
young Edward and one that he enjoyed.

ROOSEVELT'S GRAVE
At Oyster Bay, Forty Minutes From the City

Already the great affection in which Roosevelt's mem-
ory is held by the American people is finding outward
and visible expression in the multitudes that make the
pilgrimage to his last resting place at the foot of Saga-
more Hill.

From the day of his death this demonstration has
been steadily growing. It is estimated that on regu-
lar Sundays the crowds number upwards of five thou-
sand, while on special occasions this number is more than
doubled. Wreaths, memorial offerings and remem-
brances of all sorts arrive daily. The insatiable desire
to possess some souvenir of the grave has already
caused the erection of a ten foot iron railing around
the lowly mound.

The grave is in Young's Cemetery and Roosevelt's
old home at the top of Sagamore Hill is plainly in sight.
All the familiar scenes which the Colonel loved and the
places most closely identified with his home life are
before you. It is a picture not easily forgotten and will
prove one of the most lasting and satisfactory experi-
ences you will receive on your whole trip.

177

BIG IDEAS IN LITTLE PLACES

The Intimate Shop. The Unpretentious place of

Original ideas^ Personal Service and Hand

Made Articles. Individual Schemes

Carried Out. Winifred Holt's

World-famous "Lighthouse"

Shop for the Blind.

IN a great city like New York there is always room
for a man or woman with a new idea and the courage
to try it out. There is a constant demand for new ideas
in almost every direction, wearing apparel, house decora-
tion and knick knacks of all kinds. The great desire
for novelties in birthday, wedding and Christmas gifts
alone creates a large market, and women especially with
a talent for creating original schemes are reasonably
certain of a ready sale for all they can produce. We
have been at pains to look over a few of these little
specialty shops and the results of our investigations are
set forth in this chapter. Most of these shops are quite
diminutive; the proprietors themselves in most cases
superintend their own places, and there is a certain
quietness and freedom from hurry about them that is not
without its charm.

The Little Gallery at 4 East 48th Street is managed
by a woman whose excellent taste in silver ware for wed-
dnig gifts has resulted in the creation of quite a business.
Her taste is evidently correct as her business is con-

178

stantly expanding and her little ground floor shop on
so important a retail street shows that she is succeeding.

At the "Lighthouse," 111 East 59th Street, can be
seen a truly remarkable collection of baskets. Baskets
for sewing, for flowers, for desks and studies; clothes
baskets, Indian baskets in triangle design and colored
borders ; baskets with glass containers inside and handles,
to hold sweet peas, garden flowers, etc. Some also have
covers to hold bread and rolls. Then there are charming
reed mats in green, blue and yellow for luncheon sets.
Then there are wonderful old fashioned colonial rag
rugs in all sorts of pretty colors, most appropriate for
bungalows, camps, etc. Bungalow and garden aprons
and bags; hemmed towels, home spun for men's suits
and many other delightful novelties. You will be
amazed at the excellence of the workmanship of these
goods. And still more so when you are told that all
this is the product of the blind! For this shop is
the famous "Lighthouse" that you have read so much
about in the papers and the goods are the product
of these poor unfortunates whose hard lot has been
so greatly lightened by the intelligent self help so
skillfully planned and brilliantly carried to success by
Miss Winifred Holt. You are not expected to patronize
this shop as a school of charity nor is the business con-
ducted in a spirit of mendicancy. The goods are priced
in open competition with the work of the world. Many
large orders by the most prominent Arms in New York
are placed with the workers of the "Lighthouse" solely
on the basis of price and merit. The "Lighthouse" is
indeed a shining mark in the busy streets of old New
York. It is well worth a visit and many other things
that we cannot speak of here at length will be cheerfully
sliown you.

To those who would make an intensive shopping tour
of the city we would suggest the engagement of one of

179

those service shoppers, a number of whom there are.
They are thoroughly acquainted with all the stores, big
and little, know every nook and cranny of the retail
district and can pilot you around in less than half the
time you could do it yourself and much more thoroughly
besides. They receive a slight commission on any pur-
chases you may make through them and that is all the
compensation expected.

At 14th Street we shall walk a few blocks west of
the old Academy and turn at Fifth Avenue, going south
to the Washington Arch. This brings us directly into
another well-known quarter of the city — Greenwich
Village.

180

GREENWICH VILLAGE ^^^

/the latin QU.'UITER OF NEW YORK. ITS QUAINT OLD HOUSES; /
/ ITS SHORT HAIRED WOMEN AND LONG HAIRED MEN. A j

/ PICTURESQUE QUARTER LYING BETWEEN WASH"

_ INGTON SQUARE AND THE RIVER.

npHIS is one of the best advertised sections of mw- little
■■■ eefiMa«m±^(and displays much skill in getting on the
front page. To the New Yorker it is rather a pleasant
retreat, altogether too far downtown for residential pur-
poses, hence abandoned to those queer people who like to
go around in sculptors' aprons, long hair and bobbed hair
and soft slouch hats, or none at all. It prides itself
upon its Bohemianism, its art and its general superiority
to the average citizen. To the credit of Greenwich Vil-
lage, however, let it be said that it does not take itself
half so seriously as the rest of the city thinks it does.

You know this Bohemian part of New York is
made up of old houses which is so picturesque
through not having much plumbing and so forth
and heat being furnished principally by the talk
of the tenants on Bolshevism, etc. These incon-
veniences makes an atmosphere of freedom and all
that and furnishes a district where the shoe clerk
can go and be his true self among the many wild,
free spirits from Chicago and all points west. Well,
this neighborhood could stand a lot of repairs, not
alone in the personal sense, but in a good many of
the buildings, but these are seldom made until
interfered with by the police or building depart-
ments. — Nina Putnam.

There are quite a number of creditable performers in the
art line in their midst, and publicity never did an artist
any harm in the world. So the succession of "fakirs'

181

r^n

balls/' "costume parties/' etc., are to a certain extent
strictly business. The "Festa" given by the villagers in
MacDougal Alley for the Red Cross fund during the
\ War was an event which attracted attention the country
i^^)yer. No such artistic achievement was ever before re^
corded, even by those doughty villagers themselves, and
the amount of public interest was shown by the attend-
ance, which was so great as to call for a force of police
reserves to keep the crowd in line.

Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney, Mrs. W. K. Vanderbilt,
Jr., Mrs. Guinness, Mrs. Maynard, Mrs. Delano and a
host of nation-wide-known women in society headed the
affair, and many thousands of dollars were raised for the
fund. It is the backing of such names as these that
creates the spell which fascinates the outside world.
[ Several notable locations are in the Village. The
home of Washington Irving's sister at 15 Commerce
street. General Mortons house at 95 Morton street op-
posite "Mr. Williamson's Garden" mentioned in Wash-
ton's Diary. The residence of Mme. Bonneville, 309
Bleecker street where Tom Paine, author of the Age of
Reason, lived. He died in a small wooden house at 50
Grove Street. At 82 Jane Street is the site of William
Bayard's house, where Alexander Hamilton was taken to
die after being mortally wounded by Burr in the duel;
Richmond Hill, Aaron Burr's residence. The old Grove
Street school, visited by Lafayette, and the three-story
brick house still standing, occupied by W. B. Astor,
brother of the original John Jacob.

The night life of the Village centres for the most part
around the innumerable small restaurants and tea rooms.
The limit of originality has been reached in selecting
names for these various resorts. The Pig and Whistle
affects a Dickens atmosphere, and the decorations recall
Tony Weller, Wilkins Micawber, Little Nell, and Dom-
bey & Son. For this little inn is modeled after one of his

"^-~""' ' ' 182

books and the famous one in London. Even the little
sq\iare-paned curtained windows and old Dickens prints
are there to complete the picture and atmosphere. Not
much attention is paid to the napery in these places;
paper napkins, plain wooden tables and chairs with
benches running along the walls, make up the general
run of furnishings. Pipe racks, gaudily painted nooks
and corners with more or less clever wood carving here
and there; Chinese lanterns, old English lanterns and
odd conceits in lighting effects, impart more or less of a
novel effect to the visitor. The food is all well cooked,
and nicely served and in some places even daintily.

'Tuss-in-Boots," "The Dragon Fly," "The Pirate's
Den," "The Mad Hatter," "The Black Parrott," "Little
Sea Maid," "The Wigwam," "The Garrett," "Treasure
Island," "Little Russia," "Paul and Joe's," "The Sam-
ovar," "Three Steps Down," "Aunt Clemmy's" and a
dozen others, provide amusement and attraction for the
visitor. Most of these little places are tastefully painted
on the outside in some cheef ul bright colors ; vivid greens,
brilliant carmine, j et blacks, Mediterranean Blues, Span-
ish yellows, and other startling combinations used with
artistic and successful results. The very pretty custom
of having flower boxes on the window sills with brilliant
flowering plants is also a feature of Village decoration,
and adds a lot of freshness, decidedly enjoyable. Many
of the old tenement houses are now being remodelled,
and to the credit of the owners be it said they have em-
ployed clever designers who understand and interpret the
spirit of the Village architecture, and some of these
altered buildings are fascinating in their appearance.
In the meantime rents have greatly increased as a result
and the tenure of the bobhaired bohemian is likely to
be curtailed in consequence.

To many readers who have regaled themselves only
with the "Tickle Toe" philosophy, the "Soul light

183

Shrines" and frivolous sides of life in Greenwich Vil-
lage, it may come as a surprise to learn that there is also
a very serious and dignified side to it as well. Many old
families of large wealth formerly lived in the Village,
and their interest in it is still keen and piously cherished.
They have been mainly responsible for the erection of a
beautiful building for the local Theatre. This structure .
is no cheap affair, but compares favorably with the best
in town. It is admirably located on Sheridan Square,
and faces on three streets, and well worth a visit. Some
of the plays presented have won wide commendation,
and special efforts are made to produce works of genuine
merit by unknown authors. The Provincetown Players
at 139 MacDougal Street, have also scored importantly
in recent successes and altogether the stage has no reason
to be ashamed of the product of Greenwich Village.
But perhaps the institution of which the genuine Villager
is most proud is^he Greenwich House, at 27 Barrow
Street, -wMch under the leadership of Mrs. V. G. Simk-
hovitch, (born a Kingsbury, but married a Greek pro-
fessor in Columbia,) and a Villager, has become a
notable influence for good. As an example of what ■
settlement work should be, Greenwich House is a splendid
illustration. ----__J

Something like twenty-two hundred persons are in
attendance every week at the various meetings held in
the House. There are babies' Clinics, Health and Hy-
giene Clinics, First Aid, Kindergarten and Montessori
Classes. There are clubs for boys, girls, and growns-ups.
Topics of interest on daily affairs are discussed, lectures
given and classes are held in the evening for self im-
provement. Nor is everything confined to such sober
work. There is plenty of recreation. Social meetings,
dances, gatherings of informal characters, Thanksgiving
and Christmas dinners, a summer centre for children,
and a place to care for babies during the day time. An

184

assembly hall for general meetings, a gymnasium for
basket ball and other games. Music, pottery, and in-
dustrial art is taught. In short the program of the work
done in a year at the Greenwich House is a credit to
the splendid band of. men and women who have so un-
selfishly devoted their time and their money to the work
of making themselves neighborly. That they have gone
about their work in the right spirit is best evidenced by
the popularity of the instituion and the wonderful weekly
attendance.

Mrs. Simkhovitch is not alone in her glory. She has
gathered around her a group of co-workers whose fame
is nation wide. Mrs. Henry Payne Whitney, Miss Ida
Tarbell, Mrs. A. Gordon Norrie, Miss Cornelia Gallatin,
Mr. Ogden Mills, IVIr. Thomas W. Lamont, Mr. George
Gordon Battle, Judge Learned Harned, and at least
twenty others. With so talented a board of managers it
is not so difficult to account for the huge success of the
Greenwich House.

Mrs. Simkhovitch was pIso first president of the
United Neighborhood Houses of New York, an organ-
ization lately formed by a federation of forty-five differ-
ent associations, all working toward the goal of social
betterment in developing community life and higher
neighborhood standards.

The map which you will find at the end of this chap-
ter, includes all that you have seen from City Hall to
14th Street, on both East and West sides. By adding
it to the first map you will see that you have already
covered a third of the Island.

185

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From 14th Street to 59th

OLD 23rd street home of clement MOORE, AUTHOR OF "tHE

NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS." JAMES FISKE, ED STOKES, LOUISE

MANSFIELD, LiLY LANGTRY, ALL RESIDENTS OF THIS

STREET. ST. PETER's CHURCH, THE PAULIST FATHERS,

SLOANE MATERNITY, VANDEREILT CLINICS.

CENTRAL PARK.

Leaving Greenwich Village the next interesting sec-
tion of New York extends from 19th to 24th and from
Eighth Avenue to the river. It was formerly a region
of highly respectable homes and is locally known as
"Chelsea Village," so named by Captain Clarke, after
the famous old soldiers' home near London. Clarke
was a veteran of the early Colonial wars and settled
here about 1750, on the land that is now between
Ninth Avenue, 22nd and 23rd Streets and the river.
There are still quite a number of residences in this neigh-
borhood, but to a very great extent business has prac-
tically wiped out the old social atmosphere. The grounds
of the General Theological Seminary, covering the block
between Ninth and Tenth Avenues, 20th and 21st Streets,,
still connects it with scholastic days of the past. Clement
C. Moore, whose home was on the corner of Ninth Ave-
nue and 23rd Street, has brought fame to this village
by his little poem familiar to children the world over —
"The Night Before Christmas." Mr. Moore was famous
as a theologian and a scholar of great attainments, but
his great achievements in the realm of higher thought
have been practically forgotten in the fame which came
to him as the author of these simple lines. They were
first published anonymously in an obscure country paper
at Troy, N. Y., in 1822.

St. Peter's Church, in this neighborhood, celebrated its
80th Anniversary not long ago and has some interesting
historical associations. It stands on land donated by
Mr. Moore, as does also the Theological Seminary.

187

On the block between Ninth and Tenth Avenues on
23rd Street, the visitor is still pointed out the house
built for Josie Mansfield, a notorious woman, by "Jim"
P'iske, one time President of the Erie, whose partner
Stokes killed him in the Broadway Hotel in a quarrel
over her favor. His residence was on the same street.
Lily Langtry also sojourned here during her first visit
to New York. Her home is now occupied by the Pasteur
Institute. Edwin Forrest lived at 436.

On Eighth Avenue, between 23rd and 26th Streets, oc-
curred the famous Orange riots in 1873, in which over
200 lives were lost. It was the last clash between the
Protestant and Catholic factions in the Irish population
of New York.

In older days this region was much given over to tar-
get companies and parades of exempt firemen. The
custom of parading on Thanksgiving Day in grotesque
costumes was also more prevalent in Chelsea Village than
in most other parts of town. Generally speaking, how-
ever, there is little of interest for the visitor from out-
of-town, although the old New Yorkers still find interest
in London Terrace, Scotch Row, Inspector William's
Residence, Pike's Old Opera House and recollections of
the Erie Railroad. A purely local celebrity was the
Rev. Dr. Campbell, whose successors now conduct an
institution peculiar to New York, known as the Funeral
Church. Strange as it may seem, very little attention
is paid by the modern apartment house builder to the
fact that we must all pass away, whether we live in
flats or not. Consequently, from lack of accommoda-
tions, the custom of resorting to an institution like this
Funeral Church has become quite general. The latter
is nicely equipped with all accessories for a decorous
and well managed funeral, and it is a decided conven-
ience to life in a great city — or, more strictly speaking,
death.

188

The further up we go on the West Side the more-
families we encounter. Business has not yet driven the
home builder wholly out of this region, yet it must be
confessed that the number of single house dwellers grows
fewer each year. Some are still left, but apartment
houses are the rule.

At 59th Street is the Church of St. Paul, the Apostle^
seat of the Paulist Fathers. It is a very important
church and from the number of art works it contains is
well worth a visit. Saint-Gaudens, Stanford White and
John La Farge, were intimately connected with its artis-
tic development. Some of White's best work is seen here.
MacMonnies, Martigny, Harris, Pratt, Kelly, Wentwood
and others are well represented. In many respects artis-
tically, it is the most noted church in the city.

Other well known institutions close by are the Roose-
velt Hospital, Sloane Maternity, College of Physicians
and Surgeons, the Vanderbilt Clinic. With the exception
of the Roosevelt, this splendid group of buildings is the
joint gift of W. H. Vanderbilt and his children.

Fifty-Ninth Street seems a natural dividing line be-
tween upper and lower New York. Central Park begins
here. It extends from Fifth Avenue on the East to
Eighth Avenue on the West. Sixth and Seventh Ave-
nues, therefore, come to a temporary halt. At the north
end of the park they resume their northward march, the
former, however, changing its name to Lenox Avenue.
Other avenues also drop their numerical names at 59th
Street. Eighth Avenue becomes Central Park West but
resumes the old title north of the park. Ninth Avenue
becomes Columbus; Tenth Avenue, Amsterdam;
Eleventh, West End Avenue. The character of these
streets also change for the better and the new names are
in harmony with improved conditions.

Between 42nd and 59th Streets the population is of
a migratory professional character. The theatre, musical!

189

I Maine Monument. Columbus Circle, entrance to Central Park

companies^, the movies and vaudeville all combine to at-
tract a large contingent^ who reside here for a shorter
or longer period, as circumstances demand. The busi-
ness of providing entertainment for the public in New
York is on a very large scale and from it is drawn the
major patronage for the rooming and boarding houses
which lie west of Broadway, in what is called the the-
atrical district.

In this short run from 23rd to 59th Street we have
touched only upon the far streets of the West Side.
It rightly includes part of the theatrical section, but
that is treated separately in another chapter.

A Half Forgotten Corner; Gramercy Park, the
Players Club and the House where Roosevelt

WAS Born.
Gramercy Park is a famous little nook nestling be-
{ tween approaching high buildings in a little square be-
tween 20th and 21st Streets just off Fourth Avenue.
I The Park was a gift from Samuel B. Ruggles to the
i owners of the adjoining property and is a private pos-
session not open to the public. Many famous men, in-
j eluding Cyrus W. Field, Samuel J. Tilden, Edwin
I Booth, etc., have lived in Gramercy Park, which has been
I recently subject of sympathetic and delightful little
I essay by Mr. John B. Pine, a Trustee of Columbia
! University and a resident of the Park.
I On 19th Street an interesting experiment has been
successfully carried out whereby several very ordinary
I houses have been most artistically remodeled and now
1 present a most attractive and artistic appearance. The
1 block is known as "Pomander Walk."
I At 28 East 20th Street, near Broadway, is the house
! in which was born that great American, Theodore Roose-
velt, soldier, statesman and ex-president of the United
States.

At 22nd Street, opposite Gramercy Park, is the of-

191

fices of the Russell Sage Foundation. Admission free
between 9.45 to 10 P. M. to the Library of over 12,000
volumes on its specialty, the question of social and living
conditions.

The Players' Club is at 16 Gramercy Park. The Club
House was a gift from Edwin Booth, who made his
home in the upper front room. It is still preserved ex-
actly as he left it. The club possesses Booth's private
library, his prompt books and Shakespearean costumes.
During Booth's lifetime it was the custom of all the
members in the lounging room to rise as Mr. Booth
started to go upstairs and the courtly "good-night, Mr.
Booth," makes a pleasant memory. The Club erected a
magnificent statue last year within the confines of the
jealously guarded Park, of Booth in his favorite char-
acter, Hamlet. It is one of the most beautiful works of
art in the city. Mr. Quinn is the sculptor.

The National Arts Club has its building a few doors
west of the Players. It entertains nearly all the liter-
ary and artistic lions who visit New York in the season.

Leaving Gramercy Park and going West a few short
blocks, we now approach what New Yorkers are pleased
to think is the greatest street in the world — Fifth Ave-
nue. At all events, it is easily the most fascinating, the
most beautiful and by all standards the most interesting
in the city. It has a distinguished lineage and was for
years the most exclusive residential section in town. In
these by-gone days, to live "on the Avenue" was of itself
an unimpeachable patent of social nobility and even in
its transition from fashion to business it has maintained
and preserved its old time aristocratic atmosphere. It
begins at the Arch in Greenwich Village.

Before we enter this historic roadway, let us pause
for a moment and recall the stirring scenes here enacted
during the dark days of the Great War. The first
rumblings of the approaching storm were heard in the

193

measured tread of 100,000 men who marclied in the
Preparedness Parade. Solemn and impressive was its
meaning — wake up^ America ! In a few weeks the storm
broke in all its fury and for the next two years Fifth
Avenue is no longer an exclusive New York possession,
but becomes a Highway of the World.

Fifth Avenue, looking north from Thirty-fourth Street; the
spire of the Brick Presbyterian Church shows in the distance
Brown Bros.

Fifth Aveniie, north from Forty-second Street to the Plaza at

Central Park. The distant spires on the right are

St. Patrick's Cathedral. Temple Emanu-El on

the corner of Forty-third Street

A.M

Flag Raising Day at the Altar of Liberty on the Avenue at
Madison Square.
<P» TT St TT

Gen. Clandon, of the French Mission, speaking at the Altar

of Liberty on French Day.

Mr J P Morgan, the international financier, leads a company
■"n one of the great Liberty Loan parades.
© U. & U. •

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Avenue.
International

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The Union League Club presents a set of colors to the New
York colored troops leaving for France, 1917

Ihe colored troops upon their victorious return restore the colors

to the custody of the Club for safe keeping.

President Hughes speaking

Armistice Day on the Avenue at 34th Street,
of the whole street.

u. &u.

This was typical

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FIFTH AVENUE
Mayfair of the Western World

the wonder street of the town. the new retail district.

"avenue of the allies." the pageant street of the

world. its magnificent shops. its famous clubs.

its bouyant throngs. old time memories.

T^HE first thing that strikes the stranger in New York
is the large number of well dressed people seen on
this street. And I mean by that not well dressed in the
ordinary acceptance of the term, but elaborately so.
It was Sir John Suckling, was it not, who wrote:

Her feet beneath her petticoat
Like little mice stole in and out,
As if they feared the light;

Well, if Sir John were to walk down the avenue today
he would think that it was perpetual night, so fearless
have the mice become.

It is not an exaggeration to say that in no other city
in the world is there a street so altogether attractive as
Fifth Avenue from Madison Square to Carnegie Hill.
It is the one thoroughfare which by common consent
has been reserved for the use of polite society. No
unsightly wagons filled with hind quarters of beef or
other ill-smelling merchandise are permitted to invade
its classic precincts. The most plebeian vehicle is
the 'bus and even that charges double the fare of

247

other cars and imparts a corresponding sense of super-
iority. All other commercial transportation is rigor-
ously excluded. Motor cars of the most costly type
interspersed with an occasional old-fashioned family
coach drawn by a pair of spirited horses, with driver
and footman, occupy the driveway exclusively and the
crowds on either sidewalk are in keeping with the same
standard. On one of those ravishingly beautiful days,
for which New York is famous, it is hard to adequately
describe the animation of the crowds or the exhilaration
of a walk on this most famous show street of the town.
The fascination of the human pageant is greatly en-
hanced by the quiet beauty of the splendid architecture
which lines both sides of the avenue. This background
of imposing splendor is further enriched by the most
interesting succession of alluring shop windows that ever
dazzled and delighted the eyes of mortal women. This
is New York's latest shopping district, and as everything
is practically just from the builders' hands, every mod-
ern idea in construction and decoration has here found
its full expression. The prevailing color is white, either
Indiana limestone, granite or marble, and as New York
long ago adopted electricity in place of the primeval
practice of burning soft, smutty, sooty coal, the result is
a cheerful brightness that is deliciously stimulating. A
XII Century palace, still standing on the Grand Canal
in Venice, has been drawn upon to furnish the main motif
in the building of a jewelry firm. Italian Renaissance
is a dominant note in many other structures, nor is their
beauty confined to the outside. The interiors are a
revelation in decorative art. Color schemes are care-
fully studied. Rare marbles, bronze work, coffered
classical ceilings, are features. Woodwork of mahogany
and Circassian walnut, both hand carved and plain.
Shimmery curtains, rich hangings of damask, satin, silk
and velvet, protect the show windows.

248

Few streets contain so many stores that are widely
and favorably known. Quite a few have foreign
branches that enable them to enjoy an international rep-
utation. The world's leading jeweler is perhaps the
most famous, although at 27th Street is a friend of the
book lover the world over. Another shop is the happy
habitat of the wedding gift. There seems to be every
conceivable kind of a shop along the avenue, dealing in
every conceivable kind of a human want. Their adver-
tising patter is an interesting study in the curiosities
of English literature. Amid breathless silence, so to
speak, the announcement is made that orders for such
and such a "model" will now be "accepted." Which
always reminds one of the country weekly solemnly in-
forming an expectant world that "Mr. William Smith
has resigned from the Livery Stable to accept a posi-
tion with the railroad." Freely translated, this means
that Bill was fired out of one job and grabbed another
as quickly as he could. "Corsetiere" means just a cor-
set maker. "Togs" means clothes when the writer can't
think of anything else to say. "Lingerie" or "under-
things," means the shirts, drawers, nightgowns of the
Victorian Age. A simple dress is a "gown." An expen-
sive one is a "creation." "Style" is "model." A
"coatee" is a short coat. Shades are "heavenly," laces
are "foamy"; it's "breeches" uptown and "pants" down-
town. "Artistry" is skill in design.

ISAAC ROOSEVELT, having reiDaired his Sugar
House, is now carrying on his business of refining
as formerly, and has for sale (by himself and Son)
at his house, 159 Queen Street, opposite the Bank,
Loaf, Lump, and strained Muscovado Sugars and
Sugar House Treacle. The New Emission Money
will be received in full value as payment. — N. Y.
Journal, 1786.

JACOB ASTOR, No. SI Queen Street, two doors
from the Friends' Meeting House, has just im-
ported from London, an elegant assortment of
Musical Instruments, such as piano fortes, spinnits,
piano forte guittars, hautboys, fifes, the best

249

violin strings, and all other kind of strings, music
booics and papers, and every otlier article in the
musical line, which he will dispose of on verv
low terms for cash. — Ibid.

ARCHIBALD GRACIE has removed his Count-
ing-Room from his dwelling-house, No. 110 Broad-
way, to his new Fire Proof Store, No. 52 Pine
Street, where he has for sale, a few chests verv
fine Hyson and half chests Souchong TEA. — Ibid'.

ROBERT LENOX has for sale, remaining from
the cargo of the ship Sansom, from Calcutta, an
assortment of White Piece Goods; and, as usual,
OLD MADEIRA WINE fit for immediate use.

PETER GOELET, at the Golden Key, No. 48
Hanover Square, has imported in the last vessels
from London, a very large and general assortment
of Ironmongery, Cutlery, Saddlery and Hardware.

A person lately from London, now stopping at
27 Little Dock Street, has a composition for sale
that will destroy the very troublesome vermin
commonly called Bugs. — Ibid.

A variety of Muffs, Tippets, and Fur trimmings,
among which are a few^ black Fox Muffs for
gentlemen, may be had on reasonable terms at No.
89 in William Street.— Ibid.

The side streets, just off the avenue and crossing it
at near angles, are as much a part of the avenue as if
they were actually on the main line. Countless exquisite
"Shoppees" dot these cross streets, all catering to what
is known as "specialty" trade. If madam objects to
the throngs in the greater stores, madam may come here,
receive personal attention and enjoy an air of exclusive-
ness not possible in the larger establishments. These
little shops are patterned after their prototypes in Bond
Street, London, and the Avenue de 1' Opera, Paris.

SHOES. Double soles, though introduced, are
quite the exception, and as for leather footwear, no
lady of condition would dream of putting on any-
thing so coarse. They are quite Gothic, and appro-
priate to none but the lower orders. — Fashions note
1300.

Bird-of-Paradise yellow is a favorite color for
satin gowns a I'Empire.

The colors most in estimation are ponceau
rose, cachcou-nut brown, American green, willow-
green, and ethereal blue.

250

Bonnets are of a becoming shape and size —
many of black or violet velvet, though those of
white or tinted satin are rather more in favor
with the higher classes. A drapery of black net is
often added to the edge of these bonnets. Bonnets
are worn rather more forward than they have been
for some time past.

Girard's masterpiece of Psyche has brought
pallor into fasbion. It is so much the rage to
look ethereal and delicate that a pot of rough can
now be purchased for half a crown, and lotions,
instead, are used to promote the interesting shade
of the lily, which has of late subdued the rose.

Physicians and doctors of divinity have de-
clared that the scanty clothing prescribed by
fashion is indelicate as well as unhealthful, but
do they not speak of deaf ears? "What doctor, be
he D. D. or M. D., could outweigh a fashion-
book? The arbiters of taste never seem to care
to invent anything to protect women from cold
and damp, and even when common sense forces
one to put on heavy, warm clothing, its wearer
is deemed either insane or a hopeless invalid.

I don't know why I enjoy writing about stores unless
it be that my folks always come home exhausted from
shopping. "The long waits are so fatiguing," they ex-
plain. When I venture to remark that I am never kept
waiting, I am met with a glance of withering scorn
and the remark, "Of course not; you're a man." To
the feminine mind this belated discovery is all sufficient.
No further explanation is ever vouchsafed.

The stores are so close together and the stocks so
vast that I should think it would be an ideal place for
this great American pastime. But apparently I am not
qualified to judge, so perhaps I better stop and write
about clubs, for the Avenue and its side streets are the
homes of clubdom. All these with social aspirations
are engaged in making the world safe for democracy.
The Knickerbocker, for instance, limits its membership
to descendants of Dutch settlers in New York. To get
a clear idea of what this means read Knickerbocker's
History of New York. The Union, at 51st Street, is

251

similarly limited to the pre-Revolutionary English set-
tlers. My woid ! The St. Nicholas, at West 44th Street,
is limited to the descendants of old New York families —
English, Scotch, Dutch, French, Spanish, and all that
polyglot population, from whence came the eighteen dif-
ferent tongues which the English acquired when they
finally took possession in 1664, and which they have been
at pains to increase ever since.

The Brook Club, just around the corner on 40th
Street, is said to be a social club, so let it go at that.
Its list of members includes all the young bloods in
town. The architect who designed the New York Yacht
Club is still at large. None of these clubs are open to
visitors, so we may as well look at something else.

Fashionable photographers, dealers in old silver, rare
items for collectors, oriental rugs, diamonds, jewelry,
pearls, bric-a-brac and other purveyors to the ultra-
wealthy make up the remainder of the list. It is said
that articles of higher values can be had on Fifth Ave-
nue than in any other city in the world and it is a mat-
ter of record that sales aggregating more than a million
dollars have been consummated by a well known art
dealer at one short interview. It is certainly a marvelous
street. The rents are enormous. One little shop 25x100
near 42nd Street was quoted at $25,000 per year. It
was speedily taken. A whole building costs a king's
ransom.

There are no such wonderful book stores as on the
Avenue and nearby. Bookshops are generally supposed
to be a guide to the cultural and educational aspirations
of a community, and it appears that our great and glor-
ious country is very much behind foreign nations, includ-
ing the Scandinavian, in the number and importance
of these establishments. The Avenue, however, is ap-
parently an exception. Roosevelt's publishers are up

252

beyond 50th Street and have a beautiful place. The
work of Ibanez^ the great Spanish novelist, was intro-
duced in this country by a noted house a block or two
above. That splendid, virile American and ex-fighter in
the Civil War, good old Major Putnam, has a splendid
establishment just off the Avenue in 45th Street. A
famous dry goods shop also has a wonderful book sec-
tion, fitted up specially so you can "browse," as their
advertisements say. I don't know what the bookseller
would do without that word "browse." Seems to me it
would be much better to sell the customer a lot of books
and let him do his "browsing" at home. Righto !

In the upper part of the Avenue there are a number of
decorators and antique shops of a peculiar type. Their
salons and galleries are fitted up without regard to cost
and they occupy as a rule the most exclusive and expen-
sive buildings obtainable.

What struck me as the peculiar thing about them was
the utter lack of attention which greets you when you
enter. In some places your presence is plainly resented.
In others you are asked if you have an appointment and
the horrified manner in which your negative reply is
received is sufficient to convince you that you have com-
mitted an unforgivable crime. In a majority of cases
you are simply ignored; in one instance a rug dealer
imparted the information that he wasn't selling rugs
that day, to come around next week.

All this, however, is not discourtesy. It is simply their
way of doing business. They do not cater to the hoi
poilloi. Their clients are few. But they spend a fortune
when they do come in. Consequently everything that
might interfere with immediate attention upon their arri-
val is not to be considered for a moment — even the brief
delay occasioned by murmuring a few words of apology
while dismissing you. They know their business and
what seems rudeness to us arises from an altogether and

253

perfectly legitimate policy. The art dealers, on the
other hand, are exactly the opposite. They invite the
public to look at their pictures and give free exhibitions
all the time. The dealers in rare prints, old and val-
uable books, first editions, autograph letters of famous
men, etc., are here in goodly numbers. Some very won-
derful items are occasionally found in their stocks.
There is not, however, any counterpart in number of the
celebrated second hand shops which abound in England
and Continental cities, nor since the death of "Joe"
Sabin is there any particular place where bibliophiles are
wont to foregather and discuss the latest auction or the
latest "find." The nearest approach to such a section is
on Fourth x\ venue near 14th Street, where quite an
aggregation of talent has congregated in late years and
this may in time correspond to the region we have in
tnind.

Coming up the Murray Hill district of the avenue one
stops involuntarily to admire the dignified and impress-
ive outlines of New York's great Public Library. With
a sigh one recalls the sudden death by accident of the
great architect whose brain planned this classic edifice
just a week before its formal opening. The doors of
the still unopened building swing back to permit the body
of John M. Carrere to rest for a moment in the rotunda
of what was to be the crowning achievement of his career.
It was a graceful and beautiful tribute. Some idea of
the size and service of this institution may be gained
from these figures:

The year's visitors numbered about 3,000,000. The cost
of operating the building for a year is $90,000. This
is borne by the board of trustees. The cost of the re-
pairs, borne by the city, amounts to $45,000. More than
2,000,000 books were consulted by persons using the
reference department. Almost 10,000,000 volumes were
taken out by borrowers from the circulation departments

254

:|l*.Sfej:

A glimpse of Bryant Park showing the Bush Terminal Sales-
room Building in the background. The elevated runs along
Sixth Avenue. The small building is a Y. M. C. A. hut.

A corner of Bryant Park showing Bush Sales Building on 42nd
Street in the distance.

throughout the city. In addition to the regular branch
librarTes, about 50,000 volumes were distributed through
417 special agencies of the extension division.

Back of the Public Library Is Bryant Park

This attractive little spot occupies the remaining half
of Reservoir Square belonging to the city and lying be-
tween Fifth Avenue and Sixth Avenue between 40th and
4,2nd Streets. It was formerly the distributing reservoir
for the first Croton Aqueduct. The Public Library now
stands on the site of the Egyptian-like structure well re-
membered by many of our citizens. In the 50 s it came
into brief prominence as the site of the famous Crystal
Palace— the first of what we now call ^World's Fairs.
All the foreign countries sent fine exhibits and it helped
greatly to make New York much better known in Europe
It was a huge sensation and. made its exit m a great
fire that was even more spectacular.

The park is named after the well-known poet, Willian>
Cullen Bryant, whose home was at 34 West 16th Street.
He was at that time one of the owners of the Evening
Post, originally established by Alexander Hamilton.
There is a statue of him by Herbert Adams on the east

side. -.

During the Civil War, Union troops were encamped
here and the disgraceful Draft Riots began with an
attack on the colored Orphan Asylum nearby, at iSrd
Street and Fifth Avenue.

But the most interesting object in the park is the
imposing bust of Washington Irving, heroic size, for
many years New York's First Citizen.

Irving, who first gained European recognition for
American letters, was born in William Street. He was
an ardent New Yorker and his whimsical History of
New York, which set two continents laughing, sells today
as freely as the day it was published. It is now a

257

Sixth Avenue, showing one of the mascots of the Hippodrome,

the Elephant. This is cur largest shuvv hoiis

Fort-y.-second Street, east from Sixth Avenue. Tlu
of the Public Library and Bryant Park,
.l^olian Hall in centre

north wins

classic. The present-day New Yorker places him along
with Aristotle, Marcus Aurelius or Homer in point of
antiquity, yet he was a trustee of the old Astor Library
and largely instrumental in securing the gift to the city
from Mr. Astor, and was president of the commission
formed to create Central Park.

When he went to England in the midst of the War
of 1812 he was at once cordially welcomed by Sir Walter
Scott and his friends, not merely as a fellow craftsman
of distinction, but as an American genius above the
petty decisions of Cabinets regarding peace or war.

We see him once more in the falling shadows of a
closing day. It is in the garden of a friend's house
in sunny Spain — and beyond are the storied columns of
the ancient Alhambra. Two little girls are on his knee,
to whom he is telling strangely fascinating tales. Child-
ish laughter breaks upon the quiet scene. In the retired
little English village of Hants still lives one of these
little girls. Today, as ex-empress of a half-forgotten
empire, its people once more in the van of European
civilization, does Eugenie Marie de Montijo recall the
days of merry, carefree childhood and that cultured,
gentle scholar from old New York? Probably not. A
recent letter to the writer from Her Majesty's Lady-in-
Waiting regretted that the war work of the Empress
precluded any literary contributions at present.

Other statues in the Park are of Dr. J. Marion Sims
and a memorial fountain to Josephine Shaw Lowell,
social worker and philanthropist. In the Republican
Club on 40th Street, opposite the park, is a collection
of rare prints and maps of old New York. The Engi-
neers' Club is on the same street. It has a most imposing
building.

* * -x- * *

"The Little Church Around the Corner" is a familiar
name for the Church of the Transfiguration, on East

260

29th Street, near Fifth Avenue. The story goes that
when in 1871 Joseph Jefferson endeavored to arrange
for the funeral of George Holland, a brother actor, at
a church on Madison Avenue, the pastor said that he
could not hold burial services over the body of an actor.
"But," he added, "there is a little church around the
corner you can go to." "Then all honor to the little
church around the corner," replied Jefferson. "We will
go there." From that time the church and its rector,
Rev. George H. Houghton (who died in 1897), were
held in affectionate regard by the theatrical profession.
Many actors have been buried from the church, ^mong
them Lester Wallack, Dion Boucicault and Edwin Booth.
There is a memorial window given by the Players (the
actors' club), in loving memory of Booth.

No mention of the Avenue would be complete with-
out reference to that wonderful organization, the Y. M.
C. A. During the great war work its offices were in the
Ziegler Building, corner 43rd Street, but it had two other
auxiliary buildings nearby on Madison Avenue. All their
work was directed from this vicinity and the whole world
knows the gigantic tasks they accomplished.

The Headquarters of the Red Cross were also on the
Avenue, at 38th Street.

The Pageants of War

For the last two j^ears Fifth Avenue has been a riot
of motion and color. First came the Preparedness
Parade, in which over a hundred thousand citizens joined.
Then came the drafted men on their way to camp.
Dressed in the clothes in which they came from work,
surrounded by their sweethearts and sisters, the scene
was deeply touching. In a few months these same citi-
zen-soldiers again came on the Avenue. This time
marching on to war. Trim, alert, guns at shoulder
arms, colors flying, bands playing, the boys marched

261

down the Avenue to the enthusiastic applause of the
crowd and the shouts of their friends. No one who
saw this sight and contrasted these trim, smart looking
soldier boys with the nondescript mob of a few months
previous will ever forget the effect this transformation
produced. It seemed unbelievable. The steady tramp,
tramp of the seasoned veteran was in the regular cadence
of that marching host, and we rc^^lized as never before
that we had an army and an army of fighters.

For weeks almost without cessation armies passed down
the Avenue. Sometimes it w^as varied by a foreign regi-
ment, i/ke the Canadian Highlanders. Then it was a
regiment of Poilus direct from France, or Belgians,
x\nzacs and Italians. Again it would be a handful of
Czecho-Slavs enroute from Russia. Then it would be a
host of our own boys, this time from California or Mon-
tana or the South. There seemed no end to them.
Tramp, tramp, tramp; halt; forwvard, march! And the
procession started again.

When all the soldiers had gone — there always seemed
to be just one more detachment — then came the others.
The grand army of Red Cross Nurses; the countless
number of war workers of every description; Y. M. C.
A. men; Y. W. C. A. women; K. of C. men; Yeoman-
ettes; Salvation Army Lassies; Hospital Units; Ambu-
lance Drivers; Machine Gunners; Flying Squadrons;
Aeroplanes; Army Transport Motors; Motorcycles;
Doctors, Surgeons, Stretcher Bearers, First Aid Sta-
tions, and every other conceivable contrivance necessary
to win the war. Few who witnessed these stirring scenes
in the early months of 1918 will live to forget them, and
now that it is happily over, none care to do so. It
was all very wonderful and very impressive. Yet never
again, let us hope, will the Avenue be called upon to
witness the like. With all its enthusiasm, all its cheers,
the significance of the scene could not be concealed and
tears lay close to the smiles and the din of cheering.

262

Armistice Day

Througliout this two years of pomp and pageantry
the Avenue was keenly conscious of the deep solemnity
which underlaid every demonstration. No spirit of lev-
ity was ever present. The stern reality of war in all
its hideousness brooded over all. Small wonder was it,
therefore, that on the afternoon of November 11th a
huge wave of uncontrollable emotion swept over the city
at a report that the war was over ! Although the news
was promptly contradicted, the long pent up feelings of
the populace could no longer be held in check.

No intimation that such an early ending of the war
had been given. The newspapers were still talking of
"next spring"; troops were still hurrying aboard trans-
ports and everywhere the energies of the people were
bent on "winning the war," when a great din of whistles,
cheers and noises of every description suddenly rent the
air, sending thousands to the windows, to the telephone
and to the street to learn the cause of the commotion
and to receive in answer the magic word "Peace !" The
feelings of the moment beggar description. From office,
store and factory poured multitudes. Joining in im-
promptu processions, they made for the Avenue. Ve-
hicles of all sorts were immediately banished from the
thoroughfare, that the seething crowds might have room.
There seemed no ordered plan or purpose. People just
joined in; they all walked one way. The Avenue was
jammed from wall to wall and the whole mass moved
slowly in one direction. Flags waved, horns tooted, all
sorts of things that would make a noise were hastily
improvised. For the first time in nearly four years the
air of gloom had disappeared. Oh, the joy, the relief!

When the clerks, salesmen, workers and bosses had
suddenly walked out and disappeared for the day —
offices, factories and stores automatically closed. Some
one threw a spool of ticker paper out of a window, hold-

263

ing the end in his hand. The long streamer thus cre-
ated caught the popular fancy and in a twinkling all
over the city windows were raised and paper thrown out.
Some ingenious person let loose a handful of small cut
up pieces and this improvement was also imitated. In
a moment the Avenue was in a snow storm of paper.
When the frenzy had passed it was found that every
available book in sight had been robbed of its pages,
torn into shreds and sent hurtling into space.

The whole thing was so spontaneous that every emo-
tion was genuine. Strangers embraced each other. Men
and women never before guilty of the slightest social
infraction, threw custom to the winds. Locked in arms,
long rows of staid and sober citizens joined the march-
ing throngs^ sang, two stepped, tangoed and otherwise
behaved in a thoroughly indecorous manner. The few
wagons that indiscreetly strayed into the Avenue never
got out; they were immediately commandeered by a
happy joyous throng, who climbed on every available
perch and there surveyed the passing show. Looking
from a high window on the Avenue the sight was inde-
scribable. Thousands were packed as far as the eye could
reach. The huge mass swayed this way and that. There
was no disorder, no display of bad temper. The police
were powerless to cope with the crowd. They swept the
traffic men and the iron traffic posts clear off the street.
No living thing could withstand this onslaught. All one
did was to go along with the crowd. It was an unfor-
gettable scene; dramatic in its intensity, striking in its
spontaneity. In a few hours the city looked as if a
cyclone had struck it, but the disorder only added gaiety
to the crowds. Such was Armistice Day on the Avenue.
It will never be forgotten.

Return of General Pershing and the First Division,
Formal End of War Parades.

With the magnificent tribute paid to the returning
Commander and his victorious troops of the First Divis-

264

ion, the long series of War pageants on Fifth Avenue
may be said to have come to a final close.

Of all the pictures in all the pageants in the avenue
of a thousand parades none will stay fresher on memory's
film than that of Pershing on his five mile ride.

A soldier of soldiers astride a bay horse, pelted with
cheers and with roses, his men following on. A man for
the people to spend their enthusiasm upon, for whom they
have been waiting.

Gen. Pershing, astride a beautiful bay, the eye filling,
satisfying picture of the man on horseback — not a man
on horseback of sinister foreboding, but a man on
horseback of golden performance, he was. A half
block up from the stand he had spied his boy and his
sisters in the box reserved for their use. He had saluted
them with a smile. But now, at just twenty minutes
after ten, he was about to salute that which was after
all the inspiration of his whole career.

Thirty thousand men with all their gear, from airplane
to trench mortar, from staff limousine to elephantine
truck, from fat breeched howitzer to vicious light mitrail-
leuse, from the General's charger to the gargantuan cater-
pillars which drew the guns — for three hours and a half
they moved without ceasing past the reviewing stand at
Eighty-second Street. They left 110th Street on the
stroke of 10 in the morning an4 it was 3:20 in the after-
noon when the last of them had passed through the
Washington Arch.

MADISON AVENUE, MURRAY HILL. GRAND CENTRAL STATION AND

PARK AVENUE. THE MORGAN LIBRARY, DIANA ON THE TOWER.

MADISON SQfUARE GARDEN AND THE HORSE SHOW. THE

GREAT METROPOLITAN TOWER.

Next in social importance as a residential street in
the old days was Madison Avenue. Starting at 23rd
Street, this avenue for many years was the only rival
to Fifth. Today nothing remains of its former polite

265

The Metropolitan Tower, INIadison Square. ^Madison Square
Garden on the left

grandeur. The residence of S. L. M. Barlow, a once
noted lawyer, stood on the corner of the avenue and
23rd Street. This entire block is now occupied by the
vast buildings of an insurance company, which extends
back to Fourth Avenue, demolishing in its expansion
the old Academy of. Design and the ultra-fashionable
Lyceum Theatre, the scene of the early labors of the
late Charles Frohman. The New York prototype of
Christie's famous London auction room is on the south
side. Some famous collections have been dispersed. here,
the May Jane Morgan sale, with its famous peach blow
vase, among them. The chief features of the huge
Metropolitan Building are its wonderful interior stair-
way, a reproduction of the similar entrance to the Grand
Opera House in Paris, and its tower and clock.

The clock dials are of reinforced concrete,
faced with mosaic tile and are 26^/^ feet in
diameter. The figures on the clock face are four
feet high. The minute hand is seventeen feet long
and weighs one thousand pounds. The hour hand
is 131,2 feet long, weighs 750 pounds. The bells
vary in weight from 7 to 15,000 pounds. The
tongue weighs 200 pounds, and strikes every hour,
and a set of Handel chimes proclaims the quarter
hours. After dark a white flash from the summit
indicates the hour; the quarter hours in one, two,
three, and four red flashes. The clock is visible
for twenty miles. Electric power is used and the
whole is set 350 feet above the sidewalk. One has
to view it from a neighboring high building to get
a "close up" and thus realize its immensity.

The most important thing from a visitor's point of
view is the tower, which is about 700 feet high. Admis-
sion to the Observation Gallery is 50 cents. Select a
day when the wind blows northwest.

Opposite the Metropolitan is Dr. Parkhurst's Church,
the last work of the late Stanford White. Critics go in
raptures over this structure and point out its many artis-
tic qualities. The building is very low and has a dome
and minarets like a Moorish temple. Engaged Ionic
columns form the entrance. All this may be art, but
for a sacred edifice it is the most frivolous looking struc-

267

ture ever conceived by the mind of man. For a "movie"
house it vrould be fine. The site has recently been pur-
chased by the Metropoltian, and this burlesque on relig-
ion will be removed, for which much thanks.

On the next block is the highly ornate Appellate Court
House, a really dignified and impressive building. The
several statues which adorn this building make an inter-
esting approach and lend a judicial atmosphere to the
structure. The interior mural decorations are much
above the average and are justly famous. All the great
artists are represented by some of the most important
work they have ever executed. By all means visit the
Appellate. It is a liberal education in mural painting.
Go in the morning when the court is not in session.

On the corner of 26th Street is the home of the Man-
hattan Club, the leading Democratic club in the city, and
the rival of the Union League.

The famous Madison Square Garden comes next,
occupying an entire block. It is the home of the horse
show. This event marks the formal opening of the social
season in New York. The building shows the influence
of the Alhambra in Spain. The statue of Diana on the
tower is famous. Designed by Stanford White, who
met his death here in its roof garden at the hands of
Harry K. Thaw in 1906.

The beautiful offices of the Society for the Prevention
of Cruelty to Animals is directly opposite. It was found-
ed by Henry Bergh. The Society had as its original
founders such men as Peter Cooper, James Lenox, Ham-
ilton Fish, John Jacob Astor, Jr., August Belmont, John,
Wesley and Fletcher Harper. It retains to this day a
similar impressive membership.

On East 27th Street, just a few steps off the avenue,
is the lineal descendant of the old French Huguenot
Church that originally stood in Petticoat Lane (see tab-
let on Produce Exchange) — the Church du Saint Esprit.
The Huguenots from New Rochelle walked every Sun-

268

day to the old church and returned the same daJ^ All
the old Huguenot families in the city have been connected
with this church in some way or other since its establish-
ment in 1688.

The avenue is fast filling up with loft and business
buildings beyond this point. Few residences now remain.
Most of them are vacated by the owners and are await-
ing business tenants. The most conspicuous exception
is the J. P. Morgan house, occupying the block between
36th and S7th Streets. Mr. Morgan lives in the 37th
Street corner. The library is, of course, one of the most
famous in the world. Its treasures include some of the
rarest items known to collectors. The manuscripts are
probably its most unique possessions; they include nine
of Scott's novels; Pope's "Essay on Man/' Milton's
"Paradise Lost," Burns' "Cotters' Saturday Night/'
Dickens' "Christmas Carol/' etc. It is, however, only
an aggravation to dwell upon these, as the library is
not open to the public and the librarian, Miss Belle De
Costa Greene, is not over liberal in granting permission
for strangers to pay it a visit. Still, she uses intelligent
discrimination in making exceptions, and a properly
worded request has been known to produce results.

The name Murray Hill comes from Robert Murray,
whose farm it was.

The American troops narrowly escaped capture at
this point, following their defeat at the Battle of Long
Island. Aaron Burr was leading them to safety in Har-
lem when the British sought to cut off their retreat.
Mrs. Murray entertained some passing British Generals
and made them so comfortable that the Continental
troops were well north of the hill 'ere the officers de-
cided to bestir themselves. A skirmish occurred at about
Fifth Avenue from 3 8th to 42nd Streets, but by the time
the English threw their line across the island the last
American soldier had already passed to safety.

269

At the 37tli Street corner, northwest, is the residence
of Mrs. Anson Phelps Stokes. The huge granite struc-
ture on the opposite corner is the residence of the late
Joseph De Lamar, who made millions in mining.

The town house of Percy Pyne, 2nd, whose grand-
father founded the great National City Bank, is on
the north corner of 40th Street, and opposite the resi-
dence of William Rockefeller, brother of John D. The
rest of the avenue to 42nd Street is given up to busi-
ness. At 42nd Street we come into a new region of
office buildings, hotels and the Grand Central Terminal.

Forty-Second Street and Pershing Square

This thoroughfare has immensely expanded during
the past few years. It is the main artery of the Grand
Central Terminal Zone and its marvellous accessibility
has resulted in the building up of a community almost
of its own. In the modest language of John McE. Bow-
man, it is the "Heart of the World." General Wingate's
magnificent Victory Hall is planned to occupy the Park
Avenue corner of Pershing Square. The new viaduct
is also completed. It is an important section of New
York.

Four railroad trunk lines have stations on the street.

Over 100,000 passengers use the Grand Central Term-
inal Station each day.

70,930,934 subway and elevated tickets were sold at
42nd Street stations during the year ending June 30^
1919.

More than 7,000 subway and elevated trains stop here.

More than 10,000,000 visitors dine annually in hotels^
restaurants and cafes.

It has eleven theatres, with 16,233 seats and an aver-
age weekly attendance of 129,864.

Nine New York Stock Exchange firms maintain thor-
270

-=&iSa,isr^s;™o^°^°"--=

"^^^ M!a\t n^t^"^''^-'; P^^«hi"g Square, Park Avenue and Forty-sec,

Also the network of transportation lines, overhead and undergr^un

Hill, Belmont, Manhattan, Biltmore. Commodore, .^^tn.ll K,„-u;,

re, Commodore. Small buildii
Forty-second Street is the end

"t Showing group of hotels adjoining the Grand Central Terminal.
.ting at this ?oint. The hotels are from left to right. Murray
centre is the railroad station. The bridge leading to it across
fs new Park Avenue Viaduct

oughly equipped branch offices with private wire service.

Seven national banks and trust companies and two
savings banks.

One department store with 2,600 employees.

More electricity is used for lighting purposes than in
any average city throughout the world.

Nearly every kind of business is located on the street.

All leading parades cross it.

Four churches with over 6,000 members.

The New York Public Library, with a circulation of
2,598,109 volumes, is located on the Fifth Avenue corner.

One public school with 1,700 pupils and 38 teachers.

Five telegraph offices.

Two telephone exchanges, handling more calls each
day than any city of 250,000 population.

Two hundred and fifty new buildings, with an aggre^
gate investment of over $200,000,000, have been erected
in this section during the past ten years.

Altogether this is one of the liveliest streets in town.

The private residences that lined both sides of Mad-
ison Avenue north of 42nd Street for the next mile or
two are all gone. The Manhattan Hotel occupies the
entire block between 42nd and 43rd Streets, and diag-
onally across stands the magnificent Biltmore. Beyond
that is a great business building and the new Yale Club.
St. Bartholomew's Church, with its famous bronze doors,
in memory of Cornelius Vanderbilt, is now at 50th
Street and Park Avenue. A twenty-story Christian Sci-
ence Building takes its place. Two large retail stores
among the finest in the city come next, one a men's
shop and the other a most wonderful sporting goods
house. One of the chain of Ritz Hotels comes next.
The criminal activities of Von Bernstorff and Dernburg
during our pre-war experience were conducted from this
place.

274

Following the Ritz come wonderful apartment houses.
They are the last word in luxury. Some are so arranged
that in event of the family's absence and the master
being detained in town, household routine will go on
just the same. Servants enter, do the necessary work,
supply fresh flowers and then depart. At night, any
kind of a dinner ordered by the master, simple or elab-
orate, will be ready at the hour designated by him.
Rents of these apartments are from $30,000 to $40,000
per annum. The most expensive ones are fully rented
and have a waiting list.

We will now draw a line on the map across 42nd
Street. That is another natural dividing line. The
theatre district, which begins at Broadway and 42nd
Street and goes north, will be treated next. Aside from
the theatres, we have now sketched practically every-
thing of interest below Central Park.

276

i s ^- s s ^

^ C »> M c h

(L) W tf) W J"*

t ^-d\\]i. PiMitb III Gramercy Park, erected by '"The
I'laAtis" — ihc chil) founded by Booth

THE GREAT WHITE WAY

THF THEATRES. UNUSUAL NOVELTIES IN PLAY HOUSES. LUX"
, Jk^OUS MOVING PICTURE PALACES. THE GIGANTIC HIPPO-

' DROME REVIVAL OF THE "INTIMATE" ROOF GARDENS.

C^B^RETS. OUT DOOR PAGEANTS. THE LEWISOHN
1 STADIUMS. MUSIC HALLS. GRAND OPERA COM-

' MUNITY SINGING. LECTURES. INTEL-
LECTUAL RECREATION.

4<-pviRECT From Broadwcay, Original New York
L^ Cast " So runs the legend on the bills that an-
nounce the coming of another New York success to the
provinces. And vet many a good play has failed m the
Metropolis only to find unbounded success on the road.
Oh, the joy of being the rejected stone that becomes
the chief stone of the corner !

Well, here you are right in New York, and on Broad-
way, too. Some two thousand places of entertainment
are open for you. Which shall you choose— comedy,
tragedy, light opera, grand opera, vaudeville, circus con-
cerf, pantomime, recitals of all kinds, or movies? About
seventy-five or eighty of these houses are legitimate,
serious theatres, featuring the best productions and em-
ploying the highest class talent. The balance are mostly
photoplays, ranging from $2 admission down .to five
cents.

Aside from the theatre, with which every one is famil-
iar New York rejoices in several unconventional enter-
prises materially different from the usual run. The

279

Hippodrome, for instance, is unlike any other playhouse
in America, and everything in it is planned on a scale
so enormous as to belittle all others by comparison. It
is mainly given up to a performance which pleases the
eye more than anything else. It has a perfectly mar-
vellous and enormous water tank, which extends under
the entire huge stage. It's patent-secret construction
enables the players to submerge and disappear com-
pletely. No one has yet been able to fathom the mys-
tery. It seems certain that they must positively perish.
You have hardly recovered from the shock of the trag-
edy (?) 'ere the whole host blithely reappear, climb out
of the water and burst gaily into song! This is one
of the most baffling illusions ever produced in the mimic
world. The stage is larger itself than the whole of
an ordinary theatre, and the auditorium in proportion,
consequently speaking parts are practically out of the
question except for the actor with a voice like a mega-
phone. The plays are ^ostly spectacular with plenty
of chorus singing and several old-time circus acts in
which an elephant usually appears. The late Fred
Thompson, who conceived the Hippodrome, thought the
elephant an emblem of good luck and adopted this for
his chief scheme of decoration. We all go there once
a year, at least, and oftener when we can pick up some
small nephews or nieces to furnish an excuse for going
again.

The next unique playhouse is undoubtedly the one
where moving pictures are given with a wonderful or-
chestra of about fifty players, and in addition a good
soloist or quartette. The stage is gorgeously grand, pro-
ducing a stunning effect. It has special lighting arrange-
ments, and the whole schenre is decidedly pleasing and
refined. It has certainly done much to elevate the stand-
ard of the movies, and is a great success. Other houses
have since followed suit, and we now have the Rivoli,

280

the Capitol and the Rialto, in addition to the Strand,
and those visitors who have not been able to patronize
anything but the local livery stable turned into an open-
air theatre will be very much impressed by the elaborate-
ness of the movie in New York.

At the same time it must be admitted that many small-
, er communities saw the possibilities of high class moving
pictures before New York did and our first attempt came
as the result of representations from out-of-town men.
The success which has attended the effort to give the
"movie" in a building specially built for them may
ultimately suggest to producers that the employment of
brains in the construction of the plays themselves might
"also prove equally profitable.

There are also a number of "intimate" theatres, as
they are called— small places seating from one hundred
and fifty to three hundred persons. Here you avoid the
vulgar crowd and usually see one of those wholly unin-
teresting but excessively intellectual productions that re-
quire a small auditorium in order that the audience may
be seen with the naked eye. This season, however, the
show business has been so profitable that several gen-
uinely good plays have found their way into these dra-
matic cold storage vaults, and have played to capacity.
This development has also shown that the small theatre
has its attractions, and they have grown in popularity
quite amazingly. They also rejoice in a new school
of nomenclature, like "The Bandbox," "The Little The-
atre," "The Punch and Judy," etc., which is a dis-
tinct improvement over naming it after the plumber who
built the structure or the gasfitter who owned the lot.

That these miniature houses present intelligently se-
lected plays that are actuated by a serious purpose is
shown by the great success of some of the offerings.
"The Better 'Ole" started in the Greenwich Village The-
atre, moved up to Broadway and has achieved a nation-

281

wide success. The Provincetcnvii Players^ largely re-
cruited from a bunch of amateurs, who played for their
own amusement in that delightful Cape Cod hamlet of
this name, gave some very creditable performances and
showed that there was still a chance for originality in
New York.

The most ambitious attempt to oifer plays witliout
fear of financial results was undoubtedly tried in the
heavily endowed Century Theatre. The result proved
disastrous. A large fortune was sunk and the results
were disheartening. Not alone were the plays worth-
lesSj but the attempt proved once more that a genius
cannot be developed by any hot-house process. The cry
that new writers are not w^anted, that the old clique
keeps out everybody else is still the plaint of unsuccess-
ful playwrights. The yearly success of unknown writ-
ers nevertheless keeps on and each season produces its
Eugene Walter and Bruce Bairnsfather or "John Fer-
guson."

For a slight advance (fifty cents) tickets for all the
popular successes are usually obtainable at any of the
hotel offices. It is hardly worth while trying to save
this half dollar if you want to see the show the night
you apply. While this seems something of an imposi-
tion, it is really a convenience to persons whose time
does not permit of postponement. In London there is a
similar charge for "booking," as they call it over there.
In both cases the customer is saved the trouble of going
to the theatre personally. So don't let this charge spoil
your temper and your enjoyment of the evening. There
are many other petty exactions in the city infinitely more
exasperating than this.

The dail}^ papers contain announcements of all the
current plays, together with location of the theatre. If
time permits it is well to arrange your theatre engage-
ments a week or two in advance when you first arrive.

282

There is always more or less trouble to get a good seat
at a popular success even with this precaution.

The theatre district is quite easily reached from almost
anv part of the city. Taxis being smaller, are much
better for this purpose than a huge private car and
easily obtainable. The entire list of attractions playing
in the city is usually displayed in a bulletin board on
the newspaper stand of the hotel.

The summer season is not the best time to judge New-
York theatrically. Most of the best houses are closed,
but the girl and music show is generally in evidence all
through the vear. The roof garden is recommended
for a" sultry night, but it is a sad strain on credulity
to describe* any of these performances as entertaining.
There is a tendency to improve them each year, how-
ever, and it may be that in time they will not be as
they chiefly are today— a very poor excuse for taking
two dollars from any one's pocket. Along with the hat
check extortion, and other petty graft for which the
town is celebrated, the average roof garden show has
them all beaten to a standstill.

In the back of this book is a list of the prominent
theatres and their locations. For the most part they are
within five minutes of the corner of Broadway and 42nd
Street, a pokit easily reached from any part of tow^n by
subway, elevated or surface car or taxi. It is the center
of the hotel district and the stranger will have little or
no diflicultv in finding any particular place desired. A
taxi may be had for a trifling sum and their use is a
great comfort and convenience.

283

The Aviary, Central Park

OUR BEAUTIFUL PUBLIC PARKS

central, van cortlandt, bronx, the zoological gardens, the

botanical gardens, pelham bay, interstate palisade

park and bear mountain.

Central Park

T N a cit^ so small and so congested as is New York,
it is something to brag about that we have given up
the most desirable portion of it for the use of the gen-
eral public. To deduct 843 acres out of a scant total of
22,000 and deiw ourselves the vast revenue it would
produce if devoted to ordinary usage, argues volumes for
our public spirit.

It is a triumph of the landscape artist and the results
achieved out of barren soil, covered wuth rocks, is some-
thing scai'cely believable. Work was commenced in 1857
and completed a year later at a cost of four hundred and
fifteen million dollars. That is to say, a beginning was
made. The work never ends. There are now lakes and
reservoirs covering 286 acres; 9 miles of carriage drives,

286

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Cleopatra's Needle — Central Park

Martyrs' Monument — Fort Greene Park, Brooklyn

6 miles of bridle paths, 30 miles of walks, 36 bridges
or arches, 12 tunnels, and seats for 1,000 persons. There
are twentj'^-three gates very prettily named — Scholars'
Gate, Woodman's Gate, Mariner's Gate, Warrior's Gate,
Stranger's Gate, etc. The main entrances are on ,59th
Street; perhaps the most convenient ones are on Fifth
Avenue and 59th Street, reached by 'bus and by street
cars and at Columbus Circle (59th Street and Broad-
way), almost in front of the subway exit, west side.

Park carriages make the tour of the park in one hour,
fare 25 cents. They start from Fifth Avenue and
Fifty-nineth Street and Columbus Circle and Fifty-
ninth Street.

A tour on foot is by far the most enjoyable. One
also wants leisure to view the lake; to sit down for a
moment in shady nooks and feed the swans and ducks.

There is a small menagerie and a swan boat for the
children. The cost of a ride is 5 cents. Ponies and
donkeys (near Eagle Cage), are also fun for the chil-
dren. Rides, 10 cents.

The Mall is one of the principal avenues. It is about
a mile in length and beautifully shaded with elms. A
Jarge number of statues line the sides. The Scotsmen
have erected two, the Danes one, the Germans one, the
Irish one, the Italians one, the English one. Fitz Greene
Halleck, an American, seems to have slipped in when
the foreigners weren't looking.

The Mall ends at the terrace commanding a line view
of the lake with its sailing parties. The Esplanade has
in the center a magnificent fountain.

A row around the lake or a trip in the electric launch
is well worth the trouble; fare, 10 cents. Party boats
may also be had, one or two persons, 25 cents per hour,
each extra person, 10 cents. With a man to row, 25
cents per hour extra. There is no end of beautiful
walks all through the park and the Ramble in the lower

288

edffe of the old reservoir is one full of pleasant sur-
^rfses. There is a tower-The Belvedere, near the north
end of the reservoir, which commands a fine view of

the park. . . . n 4. ;i

Cleopatra's Needle is interesting. It origmally stood
in front of the temple of the Sun in Cairo and was
erected about 1500 B. C. Its companion is owned m
London.

Many May parties, tennis and other sports are per-
mitted "in certain sections of the beaut.ful grounds^
?here is music in the Mall Saturday afternoons and
Sundays and Community Singing in front of the lake
is very popular. Some wonderful publ^ pageants are
also given in the grounds by school children and alto-
gethe? there is no doubt that the e.ty receives hberal
dividends in health and happiness of 'ts thousands of
children, who would never see a tree or flower but for
Central Park.

Our Other Parks

Biff as Central Park is, it does not compare with
Van Cortlandt Park, 1,182 acres, with its wonderful
golf courses; Bronx, which contains "S/ce^, and has
the largest zoological garden in the world, and the most
famous^otanieal Gardens; or Pelham Bay Park whid,
faces the Sound at Pelham Bay. Including the Park-
way, which connects it with Bronx, the total area is over
1 756 acres. It has eight miles of salt water shore front,
with boating, bathing, fishing, sand pits n>«"y-g°-
ronnds etc These parks are easily reached by any ot
TEast Side sub^va^s and by the West (with a shor
transfer). A special Guide Book ,s published by the
Zoological Garden management and sold for 25 cents.
It is well worth buying, and gives a world of mforma-
tion concerning the animals which we cannot give here^
The Monkey House, the Lion House, the Elephant

289

House, the Walrus Pool, the Deer Park, the Fox andj
Wolf Dens, the Elk Mange, the Bird Houses, the Aviary j
and all the wonderful birds and mammals are splendidly
described.

Bronx Park is reached directly by Bronx subway to
180th Street or the elevated to Fordham station. Admis-
sion is free, except Mondays and Thursdays, when 25
cents for adults and 10 cent« for children is charged.
Choose them and avoid the crowds.

At the Botanical Garden a guide leaves the front door
for the Museum Building on every afternoon at 3 P. M.
to escort those who wish to accompany him. Each day
the route is changed. This is the only way to properly
see the Garden.

Palisades Park, Bear Mountain Park and the
Hudson River.

Two new parKS not generally known to the outside
public are the Palisade Inter-State Park, reached by
ferry from foot of Dyckman Street, and Fort Tryon
Park, at 193rd Street and Riverside Drive, a gift by John
D. Rockefeller, Jr. Take West Side subway co Dyckman
Street. The former park contains the wonderful pali-
sades of the Hudson. It sl,?etches nearly twenty miles
along the west bank of the river A vvonderful state
road is now ir, process of constructicii and par"^ of it
is now open. Striking views of the Hudson and of lower
New York may be had frorr. many points on this road.
Fort Trvon Park preserves the New York side of the
Hudson opposite the Interstate and will be developed in
harmony with it.

Bear Mountain Park is about forty-five mile? from the
city, in the heart of the Highlands of the Hudson. It is
reached by several special boats, excursion $1.00, and by
the Albany Day Line steamers. The scenery is impres-

290

sive; it is a wonderful possession for any city to have.
West Point is only fifteen minutes further on and the
two places can easily be visited in the one day.

It was that eminent English jurist^ Lord Haldane,
who marvelled that so beautiful a river so close to such
a large city was not more popular with our people than
he divined the Hudson to be^ judging from the few
steamboats, yachts, etc., upon it. In this he was emi-
nently right. The vast majority of New Yorkers know
nothing about the majesty and beauty of this wonder-
ful river that lies right at our doors. Coney Island, that
land of hot dogs and merry-go-rounds, with its noisy
crowd, draws a thousand New Yorkers to one that visits
the Hudson.

Travellers who have been the world over declare the
Hudson has not only no rival, but has nothing even ap-
proaching one. All along its crowded slopes nestle quaint
little villages, some as old as New York itself. For so
important a highway, commerce is strangely absent
from its shores. In any European country such a natural
and cheap method of communication would be black with
sailing craft of all kinds, and huge derricks would be
met with at frequent intervals. Nothing of the kind is to
be seen on the Hudson. Aside from the few river boats
that ply up and down daily, there is only to be seen an
occasional brick schooner beating its way to the city or
perhaps a long string of canal boats that have come from
some point on the Erie Canal or Buffalo, and are slowly
drifting to New York. Even the saucy tugboats that
impart a w^onderful scene of activity and bustle all over
the bay are seldom encountered farther up the river.
Perhaps it is just as well. The river bank is almost
wholly given up to magnificent private estates and sleepy
little villages.

Passing Inwood, which marks the end of Manhattan
Island, we see just across the river the magnificent New

291

Interstate Palisade Park, which stretches in an unbroken
line for nearly twenty miles along the most wonderful
of all nature's creations — the Palisades of the Hudson.
The States of New York and New Jersey united in the
purchase of this magnificent playground for the people,
and its acquisition accomplished a two-fold purpose — it
added a park of rare natural beauty to the resources of
the city, and preserved this most wonderful work of
nature, the Palisades.

The Palisade Inter State Park can be reached by
Ferryboat from the foot of Dyckman Street. Take sub-
way West Side and get off at Dyckman Street. It is
worth seeing.

At Tarrytown the river widens to almost four miles,
and forms a body of water called Tappan Zee. It is also
quite deep here, and when a sudden squall comes across
the mountains from back of Nyack — a frequent occur-
rence in summertime — it is apt to raise quite a good-sized
cornmotion, the waves reaching quite a respectable height.

After leaving the Tappan Zee we enter the southern
gate of the Highlands and from now on the scenery is
fascinating. In about an hour we have passed Peekskill
Bay and are at Bear Mountain Park, in the heart of the
Highlands. This park was made largely possible by the
gift of over 10,000 acres of land by Mrs. E. H. Harri-
man in memory of her great husband, E. H. Harriman,
the famous railroad builder. Other land has since been
acquired, roads built through, and a number of public
improvements added, including row boats, swings for the
children and many other attractions. There is no more
beautiful spot in the world than Bear Mountain Park,
and when New Yorkers fully realize its attractiveness
they will go there by the hundred thousands.

After leaving Bear Mountain Park the next important
point which should be seen by all tourists is undoubtedly
West Point, the famous military academy. The cadets

292

can be seen at drill and the grounds visited all in a very
short time. This excursion should not be missed. The
time consumed is about an hour and a half each way.
The return fare is $1.00. It is a side trip well worth
making.

We are now in the very heart of the Highlands and
the scenery is bewitching. Sometimes the boat almost
touches the shore, so close runs the channel to the bank.
Presently we pass Highland Falls, where the late Mr.
Morgan lived, and right above it is the far-famed United
States Military Academy of West Point. Directly in
front of the Academy is Constitution Island, a present to
the government by Mrs. Russell Sage. Beyond the
island the river widens out. Crow's Nest, Dunderberg,
Storm King, Break Neck and Beacon Mountains tower
over the banks. As soon as the steamer emerges from
the Highlands, the river opens into beautiful Newburgh
Bay, with Cornwall on the west bank, Pollopel's Island
in the centre of the river and the quaint city of New-
burgh (26,000), county seat of Orange County, directly
ahead.

After leaving Newburgh, the whole character of the
landscape changes and the river flows through a most
beautiful and prolific country, well wooded and undul-
ating.

The stately yacht we have just passed belongs to young
Vincent Astor, whose ancestral home, FernclifFe, is just
above Poughkeepsie at Rhinebeck, almost adjoining the
country home of the Hon. Franklin D. Roosevelt, As-
sistant Secretary of the Navy. At Poughkeepsie, how-
ever, the trip ends for the day. We catch the down
boat from Albany, which lands us in New York about
eight o'clock, greatly rested and hugely delighted with
all the beauties and wonders we have seen.

293

THE UPPER WEST SIDE

Riverside Drive

THIS beautiful section begins at 72nd Street and
stretches north along the Hudson River to the end
of the island at Inwood Park. It can best be seen from
the top of the Fifth Avenue 'buses, which traverse its
entire length to 135th Street. The Broadway cars, the
subway and the elevated all have stations at 72nd Street
and the distance west to the Drive is not far.

The drive is fast becoming the most beautiful as well
as interesting park in the city. All the diverting pano-
rama of marine life on the river is spread before the
eyes of the onlooker. An anchorage for the Atlantic
Division of the Navv extends along the shore from 90th
Street up to Spuyten Duyvil. When the fleet is home
the scene is one of exhilaration and the Jackies are pop-
ular heroes.

The broad tree-shaded boulevard, the pedestrian walks
the bridle paths and the swiftly moving procession of
shining automobiles all tend to make the drive a pop-
ular resort for the people of the city on holidays and

295

special occasions. No buildings are permitted except
on the east side, and the attractive outlook provided by
the Hudson River has brought together a number of
well-to-do families who have erected beautiful homes in
this part of the city. And the apartments which also
line the drive are of a distinctively superior type. One
of the most interesting of the former is the home of
Charles M. Schwab, at the corner of 73rd Street. It
has an added interest to New Yorkers from the fact
tliat on the death of Mr. and Mrs. Schwab the house
and grounds will revert to the city. The present value
of the property is over $3,000,000. All along the drive
are other notable houses, monuments and statues. The
residence of the late Bishop Potter at 89th Street, and
next to the Scliwab house, is one of the most beautiful.
At 76th Street is the Hamilton fountain, an ornate struc-
ture sliaped as a drinking trough for horses. The Sol-
diers' and Sailors' Monument, erected for those who fell
in the Civil War. In front of the monument is a copy
of Houdin's statute of Washington, a gift from school
cliildren.

At 93rd Street is the new Joan of Arc statute, part
of the pedestal being made from stone which came
from the recently demolished prison in Rouen, in which
tlie Maid of Orleans was confined. At 96th Street is the
Cliff Apartment House. Above the second elevation is
a frieze in low relief carrying out symbolically the moun-
tain lions, rattlesnakes, buffaloes' skulls and other local
environments of a genuine cliff dwelling in Arizona. It
is a clever idea and never fails to attract attention. At
100th Street is the Firemen's Memorial. From 116th
Street north is perhaps the finest view of the river. At
122nd Street the drive widens out, enclosing a broad
centrial triangle containing the chief point of interest
along the whole length of the drive — Grant's Tomb.

This is perhaps the best-known object in the coimtry
297

from its frequent reproduction in postal cards, engrav-
ings, magazines and guide-books 1*^^^;^^%^^^,^^^,^'/
site, and rises to a height of one hundred and fifty feet
The mausoleum is open from 10 A. M to 5 P M. It
contains the bodies of General Grant and l^^s ^^i/«-

North of the tomb is the gingko tree sent by Li Hung
Chans-, the great Chinese statesman and admirer of
Grant There is a tablet containing an account of this
tribute adjoining the tree. v 4. k

Bv a curious turn of fortune the great General s tomb
is placed so that it seems to guard another little grave
—that of a five-year-old child who died m 1797. It
is the only grave except Grant's maintained and cared
for by the city in one of its public parks. It appears
that in years gone by the land was owned by George
Pollock in 1790. He afterwards returned to Ireland
and subsequently sold the property to Cornelia Ver-
planck— all but the little grave in which lay all that he
had cared for in America. He sent money to erect a
small fence and a headstone in which he carved his affec-
tion in the solitary line:

TO AN AMIABLE CHILD.

When condemnation proceedings were instituted to
enable the city to acquire this land for a public park
this curious indenture was encountered. Perhaps some
sentimental feeling was aroused; at all events, the city
accepted the land with the condition that the little grave
of an amiable child must always be cared for, and there
vou will see it just north of Grant's Tomb.
' A building that is convenient to the tomb is the Clare-
mont restaurant, owned by the city and is one to which
strangers frequently repair at this point of their travels.
It is a very old building, dating back almost to the
Revolution. * It has had an interesting history. Viscount

ur ,«w park, For. Tryon. The entrance gate from the south

^'^L-cheTCX'SXtn If^^e. iS'Xor^^^^ ^^^

Courtena^y, who occupied it in 1807, viewed the trial
trip of Fulton's Clermont from the veranda In 18K)
It became the abode of the Emperor Napoleon's brother
Joseph. Quite a few changes have been made from time
to time m portions of the building, but structurally it
remams the same. A very good dinner may be had here
amid pleasant surroundings.

The viaduct crossing Manhattanville carries the drive
io Washington Heights. Houses now practically disap-
pear, and the view of the river and of the Palisades
becomes more beautiful. The busses, however, branch
off at 13Dth Street, and the rest of the distance must be
made bj^ private conveyance. You have, however, seen
practically all that is to be seen of Riverside Drive
although the rural beauty of the drive from this point
is very delightful. ^

Just beyond the drive, and what will soon be a con-
tinuation of it, is the beautiful new Tyron Park, recently
presented to the city by Mr. John D. Rockefeller, Jr'
which IS described elsewhere.

302

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Battle of Harlem Heights.— Fro

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The Roger Morris House

WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS ON WASHINGTON HEIGHTS. ONE
OF OUR MOST INTERESTING REVOLUTIONARY LANDMARKS.

(COMMANDING a superb view of the Harlem val-
itj, looking south from 160th Street and Jumel
-t'lace, stands what is easily the most important build-
ing, historically, in New York— the Roger Morris House,
it is reached by the Broadway subway, 157th Street
station; walk three blocks to the east. Also by th- Sixth
Avenue elevated, getting off at 155th Street.

The building was erected in 1765 by Lieut. Col. Ro^er
Morris, of the British Forty-seventh Regiment and a
member of the King's Council. Morris and Washing-
ton were brothers in arms during the unfortunate attack

304

The Roger Morris House, Washington s HeadquarterB at Battle
of Harlem. Perhaps the most interesting Colonial
building now standing on Manhattan Island,
160th Street and Jumel Place. Take
West Side Subway or Fifth Ave-
nue Buses.

The Van Cortlandt Mansion in Van Cortlandt Park. Washington

passed a night here. Contains an interesting and

valuable collection of Colonial relics

on Fort Du Qiiesne, in which the former was wounded.
It is also stated that Mrs. Morris refused the hand of
Washington, preferring the dashing young soldier who
wore the King's uniform. After the Revolution the
estate was confiscated and sold. Meanwhile it looms
large in the pages of American history.

It is the building most intimately connected with
Washington in New York during hostilities. It was
occupied by him as headquarters from September 16 to
October 21, 1776 — a period of over five weeks. Here
he formed plans for the defence of the heights and con-
sidered measures for the blockade of the Hudson River.
At the same time he issued the remarkable series of gen-
eral orders now so eagerly read, and at the same time
carrid on the famous correspondence with William Duer,
of the secret Committee of Safety. He had under him
nearly 8,000 volunteers, for the larger part wholly un-
trained, undisciplined and about as motley a crew as
ever gathered under any commander.

Most of them enlisted for only about thirty days, and
never troubled themselves to procure suitable uniforms.
Notwithstanding their comm.on love of country and un-
doubted patriotism, they were poor material out of which
to oppose the regular trained troops of the British, and
the result was a severe defeat for the Americans and
the capture of Fort Washington. The prisoners were
first assembled in the barns on the Morris place, and
later transferred to hulks and prison ships in New York.
During this exciting period the Morris House was the
centre of operations, with Washington as first in com-
mand. Upon its surrender to the British, it was occu-
pied by Lieut. General Sir Henry Clinton, and became
the headquarters of the invaders all through the sum-
mer of 1777. In one of the rooms is shown an old
table on which Andre wrote a letter to Arnold in the
presence of his captors.

306

After Sir Henry's occupancy, the house was used dur-
ing- the summer of 1778 and for the continuation of the
war by the Hessian generals and their German staff.
With the close of the Revolution the romance of the
house for the moment ends, to be renewed at a later
date by the wife of Stephen Jumel, a wealthy French-
man who purchased the house in 1810.

As in the case of all Royalists, the property of Roger
Morris was confiscated and sold. In the days of its ill
fortune it became an inn, known as Calumet Hall, and
was the first stop for a change of horses on the trip to
Albany, being then eleven miles from the city proper.
In 1790 it flashed forth for an instant in all its old-
time splendor — the old Commander-in-chief and his cab-
inet, after a visit to Fort Washington, tarried here for
dinner "provided by a Mr. Marriner," as the old chron-
icler records. Among the distinguished guests accom-
panying the President were Alexander Hamilton, New
York's first and greatest statesman, and Washington's
chief councillor in the new government, who was then
only about thirty years old; Thomas Jefferson, not yet
the world-famous personage in histery he has since be-
come as the author of the Declaration of Independence;
General Knox, little Nellie Custis, John Park Custis,
John Adams, vice-president of the United States; Mrs.
Adams and Mrs. Hamilton. Truly a notable gathering
and well calculated to once again bring the old house
to its old-time dignity. With the departure of these
guests the fame of the old mansion seemed also to de-
part, and for nearly twenty years it stood neglected
and forlorn. Its purchase by the wealthy merchant al-
ready mentioned served to restore its fallen fortunes
for a period, as we find it for over fifty years occupy-
ing a conspicuous position in the annals of old New
York.

307

Jumel restored the mansion to the same condition in
which it was in Washington's time, thus performing a
very valuable public service. When the house finally-
passed into the possession of the city for all time, it
greatly simplified the work of making the restoration
complete.

During the Jumel occupation the old house continued
to add to its historic reputation. In 1815, after Water-
loo, Jumel sailed for France for the purpose of bringing
back the great Napoleon here to end his days in exile.
But the plan failed and Napoleon died in St. Helena.
The Jumels brought back many presents from Napoleon
and souvenirs of his reign. His campaigning trunk, a
chariot clock from the Tuilleries, a table painted by
Josephine and numerous pieces of furniture remained
in the house as late as 1889. Stephen Jumel died in
1 832 and was buried in old St. Patrick's Cathedral, then
in Prince Street.

The next year all New York was stirred by the news
that Mme. Jumel had married the notorious Aaron Burr.
Since the duel with Hamilton, Burr's fortunes had fal-
len to a low ebb and the marriage was looked upon as a
money-making scheme. The union did not last long and
a separation and divorce soon followed. Mme. Jumel
died in 1865, surviving by many years all who connected
the Morris House with the Revolution, and was buried
in old Trinity Cemetery, at One Hundred and Fifty-fifth
Street and Broadway, but a slight distance from the old
home in which for so m.any years she was so prominent
a figure.

A niece of Mme. Jumel then occupied the house for
many years. Her husband studied law with Burr, and
his friends included N. P. Willis and his sister Fanny
Fern; James Porter, the poet; Mrs. Blennerhasset and
many other literary friends. Fitz-Greene Halleck, on
one of his many visits here, wrote his most famous poem,

308

"Marco Bozzaris," on a stone in the rear of the house
which is still pointed out.

By this time the people of New York became aroused
to the historic importance of this house, and after many
attempts the property was finally secured by the city
through the Washington Heights Chapter of the Daugh-
ters of the American Revolution, assisted by the Society
of the Sons of the Revolution. It was then formally
opened to the public.

Each room now contains many interesting items and
is designated by name, so that the contents are readily
identified.

The most important is called the Council Chamber,
and is the large room at the back of the hall. In Wash-
ington's time it was known as the Court Martial Room,
and contains one of Washington's china plates decorated
with the insignia of the Cincinnati. In this room Wash-
ington received visits of the sachems of the Five Nations
who offered their allegiance to the American cause. The
Guard Room has many relics discovered in the neigh-
borhood by Mr. Reginald Pelham Bolton, and Mr. Cal-
ver, another enthusiast, who discovered a goodly num-
ber of old camp sites, graves and other hidden remains
of Revolutionary days, containing muskets, buttons, old
cooking utensils, uniforms, coins, etc.

Washington's bedroom is, of course, an object of par-
ticular interest. There are few remaining houses where
the father of his country slept for so many nights as in
the Morris House. This room is now furnished with
colonial furniture, of a character the same as used by
Washington while here. The office is also interesting, as
indeed is every room which the commander-in-chief is
known to have occupied personally.

The Lafayette Room is on the second floor and contains
the richly carved bed and sofa actually used by Lafayette
on. his visit to Charleston, S. C, and one of his gloves.

309

On the second floor in the hall is a copy of the flag used
by Washington two and a half years before the making
of Betsy Ross' design. It is the English flag, with red
and white stripes substituted for the plain red field.
Other important items in the house is the Washington
table from Fraunces Tavern^ Aaron Burr's trunk, Gov-
ernor Bradford's punch bowl, Governor Trumbull's chair
and many other colonial relics appropriately disposed
throughout the building.

The run up to the old headquarters takes not over
half an hour and is worth the time. In Trinity Ceme-
tery (this must not be confused with Trinity Church
Yard, downtown), not far from the Jumel Mansion, are
also many interesting things to see. The late John Jacob
Astor, who perished on the Titanic, is buried here, as is
also Audubon, the great naturalist, and Clement Moore,
who wrote that pretty little poem known by children the
world over,

" 'Twas the Night before Christmas"

Every Christmas, the school children of New York
gather around the grave and bedeck it with flowers. It
is a beautiful tribute.

A son of Charles Dickens w^ho died during a visit to
this country is also buried here; so we have a reminder
of tliat other great Christmas story, "Tiny Tim."

310

Cathedral of

olin tilt' Divine. MorninRside Heitflit^

THE ACROPOLIS OF AMERICA

COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY, CATHEDRAL OF ST. JOHN THE DIVINE,

MORNINGSIDE HEIGHTS, HORACE MANN SCHOOL,

BARNARD COLLEGE.

npHIS section of the city has been recently described
-■- as the Acropolis of America, and extends from
Riverside Drive to Morningside Park. These are the
grounds of Columbia University. The college grounds
proper extend from One Hundred and Fourteenth Street
to One Hundred and Twentieth Street, and from Broad-
way to Amsterdam Avenue, but the land west of the col-
lege gounds proper, from One Hundred and Sixteenth
to One Hundred and Twentieth between Broadway and

313

St. Paul's Chapel, Columbia University.

Main reading-room. Low Library, Columbia University.

II.

itue iiy Coii^lantine Meunier, the Belgian sculptor, in front of the
School of Mines, Columbia University.

Claremont Avenue, and the blocks nortli from One Hun-
dred and Twentieth Street to One Hundred and Twenty-
first Street, also the land to the east from One Hundred
and Sixteenth to One Hundred and Seventeenth Street
between Amsterdam Avenue and Morningside Avenue,
upon which stand Barnard College, Teachers College,
the Horace Mann School and the president's house, are
all included in the University buildings. On the frieze
of the librarv of the university is inscribed the follow^

KING'S COLLEGE

FOUNDED IN THE PROVINCE OF NEW YORK

BY ROYAL CHARTER

IN THE REIGN OF KING GEORGE II

PERPETUATED AS COLUMBIA COLLEGE

BY THE PEOPLE OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK

WHEN THEY BECAME FREE AND INDEPENDENT

MAINTAINED AND CHERISHED

FROM GENERATION TO GENERATION

FOR THE ADVANCEMENT OF THE PUBLIC GOOD

AND THE GLORY OF ALMIGHTY GOD

The Broadway subway cars will bring you right to the
college entrance from any part of the city in a very short
time. The Fifth Avenue motor busses also let you off
at Riverside Drive and One Hundred and Sixteenth
Street within a short block of the grounds. By this lat-
ter route you have the added pleasure of the scenery
along the river and the drive, a valued addition to the
pleasures of the trip. Every facility is provided strang-
ers for a walk through the grounds, and many of the
buildings are open for inspection by the public. A model
of all the university buildings twenty feet by thirty-five,
including all those planned as well as erected — a gift
of F. Augustus Schermerhorn, class of '68 — is in the

318

EntraiK

to College of the City of New York.
Terrace and 139th Street

St. Nichola:

The Hall of

\ :k Uki . ~ t;. ,
Fordham

ersity Heights,

basement of Kent Hall, southwest corner One Hundred
and Sixteenth Street and Amsterdam Avenue.

At 138th Street extending to 140th Street is the col-
lege of the City of New York, with free tuition and
7,000 scholars. It is the largest school under municipal
control in the world. The block southeast of the college
grounds contains a huge amphitheatre known as the
Lewisohn Stadium. Besides sports, this immense en-
closure is used for pageants, community singing, etc.
It is a most useful structure. Leaving the City College
grounds we go north on the surface cars to Fort Wash-
ington Park which contained the three forts, Washing-
ton Tyron and George, and formed the Revolutionary
defences of the Battle of Harlem Heights. Many old
relics in the way of arms, buttons, cooking utensils are
dug up in this neighborhood as the British ^forces stayed
here nearly seven vears after the battle. A tablet on the
Bennett property at 183rd Street and Washington Ave-
nue, erected by James Gordon Bennett, marks the
exact site of Fort Washington. At Broadway and 204th
Street is the old Dyckman House dating from 1787 and
recently restored. It is considered a typical old Dutch
farm house. Continuing to the end of the Subway we
alight at the entrance to Van Cortlandt Park, which
begins at 242nd Street, just beyond the Harlem River m

the Bronx. i • i, i

There are two points of interest nearby which al-
though not in Manhattan, may be included here for the
benefit of those who have made the trip with us so f ar—
the University of the City of New York, which is famous
for its Hall of Fame, the gift of Helen Gould. Much
discussion surrounds the selection of the names chosen
for this distinction. A few blocks further, at 194th
Street and Kingsbridge Road, is a very interesting old
building— the home of Edgar Allan Poe. It is contained
in a small section of public land called Poe Park. A
short trolley ride on the surface car brings us to it.

321

Map Showing Upper Part of the Island

Washington Heights Section. North from Washington's
Headquarters, Roger Morris Mansion, 160-161st Street to the
site of Fort George. At right facing Harlem River old Speed-
way, popular in days of trotting horses. High Bridge across
Harlem River and old Croton Reservoir. West or left hand
side Fort Washington Park facing Hudson River. Fort Tyron
and Fort Washington at north west corner 197th Street.

We are now at the narrowest part of the island — about J/j
a mile from East to West.

OUR GREAT MUSEUMS

THE METROPOLITAN, THE HISPANIC, THE NATURAL HISTORY, NEW

YORK HISTORICAL, THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL, THE

INDIAN, HEYE FOUNDATION, THE MAGNIFICENT GROUP

OF BUILDINGS AT BROADWAY AND 155tH STREET

NOW COMPLETED. OUR PUBLIC SCHOOLS.

I N an educational sense our great public Museums
are doing very important work. The Trustees of an
institution like the Metropolitan Museum of Art have
long ago outgrown the idea that it was simply a place in
which to display rare paintings and priceless works of
art. The idea now is to encourage the interest in these
collections for their utilitj^ as well as their beauty and
to seek to benefit industry and the artisan. The Metro-
politan now lias a separate department in which the needs
of the various workers in any line are carefully com-
piled. Every effort is expended to acquaint firms in
these lines with the specimens which are in the Metro-
politan collection and to encourage visits and investi-
gations. In this way the Museum is proving itself a
practical helper in the work of the world today and is
filling a career of usefulness never contemplated in its
earlier plans.

324

The Metropolitan is so vast and so important that we
could never do justice to it in the space here at my com-
mand. No visitor would possibly think of coming to
New York without visiting this magnificent institution
with its acquisitions of the last few years outranking any
similar institution in the world. It is open daily and
on Sundays from 1 to 6 P. M.

On Mondays and Fridays an admission fee for vis-
itors of 25 cents is charged. The Museum publishes
several catalogues of its own at moderate prices, 25 or
50 cents. Wheel chairs to avoid Museum fatigue can
also be had. Expert guides for parties at 25 cents per
person with a minimum charge of $1.00 per hour, is the
most satisfactory and time saving method in which to
see the Museum. A visit is a liberal education in itself,
and we strongly recommend our friends to put this ex-
cursion on the list. A very pleasant route is to go on top
of a Fifth Avenue Bus (fare 10 cents), and ride to the
main entrance at 82nd Street.

The American Museum of Natural History.

Is located directly west of the Metropolitan on an
extension of Park property and runs from Central Park
West to Columbus Avenue. The grounds are ample and
attractive. The building is massive and imposing. It is
a huge affair ranking next to the Metropolitan in size,
and is supported by a combination of private and public
enterprise. The late Morris K. Jessup was a great ad-
mirer of this institution. The Peary Expeditions to the
North Pole were financed by him and the resulting speci-
mens brought to the Institution. And Col. Roosevelt
delivered his only public lecture on his trip through
South America before the Society's members.

The many items of interest in this building are, like
its neighbor, quite impossible to describe in a book so
limited for space as this. Perhaps the most popular

326

exhibits are those showing the Jiomes of native New York
Indians. These are arranged in groups with lifelike
figures^ the background representing the country in which
they lived. Nothing can exceed the interest or the nat-
uralness of these groups. The figures seem about to
speak and the illusion is perfect.

Some of the large reproductions of prehistoric ani-
mals are fascinating. The Thunder lizard — as large as
a Pullman Car, always has a crowd. It is about 70 feet
long and a man just reaches his knee. These and other
popular exhibits serve to keep this Museum well in tlie
public eye. Classes from the public schools are present
every day to supplement their studies by the practical
demonstrations afforded by these exhibits.

All sorts of birds, animals, whales, reptiles, are shown
in practically endless variety. The struggle for exist-
ence among the lower forms of animal and bird life are
admirably shown in a series of skillfully arranged cab-
inets in which the whole scene is enacted before the eye
— the little field mouse is slain by the bat; the bat by
the owl; the owl by the hawk; the hawk by the Eagle,
etc., etc,

A life size Indian War Canoe filled with warriors
painted and ready for the fray, meets you almost at the
entrance. It is an exact reproduction of ^n iVlaskan
Tribe and is dramatic in its realism. If the figures were
suddenly to break out into song you would not be at
all surprised. It is certainly one of the thrills of a visit.
This Museum cannot be seen in a few hours. It is so
vast, so absorbingly interesting that the visitor whose
time is limited should be content with one or two sec-
tions. More than that, it is apt to create a confused im-
pression of the whole. It will more than repay all the
time spent in a visit.

327

The New York Historical Society.

On the block bounded by 76th and 77th Streets,
Central Park West, just around the corner from the
Museum of Natural History, stands the building of one
of our oldest institutions — the Historical Society, found-
ed by John Pintard in 1804. When completed, the
building will cover the entire front of the block and will
be a notable addition to our semi-public buildings. The
Society will shortly mature plans for the completion of
the building by the erection of two imposing towers at
the north and south ends. The main structure may also
be heightened. When completed, the Building Commit-
tee feels assured that the final result will be a notable
achievement. While the Historical is open to free ad-
mission to the public, it is nevertheless a private institu-
tion, supported entirely by its members.

In its rare prints of old New York, the society has un-
doubtedly the most comprehensive collection of items
relating to New York, possessed by any organization,
and in its maps, manuscripts and newspapers it has un-
doubtedly the finest pertaining to our city that exists.
Its library is also of extraordinary value and contains
nearly 450,000 volumes, including pamphlets.

Under the direction of Robert H. Kelby, Librarian,
and his able assistant, Alexander J. Wall, who is also
well known as a popular lecturer and authority on local
genealogy, the Historical co-operates in a hearty manner
with writers and others, seeking assistance, and this
Guide is in no small measure indebted to them for many
courtesies.

It was among the first to endorse the movement to re-
move the old post office and erect the old Liberty Pole
as a war memorial, described elsewhere in this journal.
It is ever in the forefront where New York City his-
torv is concerned and a visit to the building is well

329

worth while. The Eighth Avenue ears pass the door.
Steps are now being taken to complete the building with
artistic towers on the vacant land both north and south
of the present structure. When completed, it will be a
wonderful addition to an already famous institution of
learning and culture.

With the formal opening of the newest of our
Museums, the Indian, Heye Foundation, the Quadrangle
at Broadway and 155th Street is now completed. It
would be hard to find a more beautiful or charming
section in all New York. The Indian Museum has not
yet been thrown open to the public, but the exercises
will have been performed ere this book is published,
and it is only for us to say that it adds another inter-
esting and educational institution to the city of the
highest importance.

The Hispanic Society of America forms the prin-
cipal building in this distinguished group which is lo-
cated on an elevation overlooking the Hudson, just where
Riverside Drive makes a graceful curve as if to spare
"Minniesland," the old home of Audubon, the great
naturalist. It is devoted to the advancement of Spanish
literture, art and history. The entrance proper is on
Broadway between One Hundred and Fifty-fifth and
One Hundred and Fifty-sixth Streets, and the Subway
station is at One Hundred and Fifty-seventh Street.
The Hispanic Societ}^ is thus conveniently reached, and
the stranger who decides to spend an hour or two within
its walls will have visited one of the most remarkable
institutions not only in New York, but in the world as
well. In fact, the Hispanic Society probably is better
known in foreign countries than it is at home, though
in recent years its local fame has greatly increased, partly
by reason of the splendid exhibition of Spanish art which
it has given from time to time. Its late exhibition of
Spanish tapestries is a case in point. Lovers of art

330

were thus enabled to use the best examples of the most
famous Spanish creations in this ancient art, and our
country thus received the benefit. The growing influ-
ence of. all things Spanish and Portuguese in this city
has given the society an added importance that is rapidly
growing as its usefulness becomes more widely known.

The collections of this society, though small_, are of
exquisite quality. No attempt has been made to include
the varying grades of certain illustrative originals, the
idea being to limit the exhibits to the very best specimen
obtainable in each class, and also one other that might be
described as generally typical. In this manner the so-
ciety has gathered examples of wood carving, silver work,
ivory plaques and combs of Phoenician origin, Hispano-
Moresque plaques, neolithic and Roman pottery, Buen-
Retiro ware, azulejos or glazed tiles, Roman mosaics
and ecclesiastical embroideries, etc. Most of them are
of the greatest rarity.

As the society delights to encourage special research
in literature and strives to promote new and original in-
vestigations so that the result may be literature by itself,
it offers special facilities to those pursuing such studies,
and its library is, without exception, the most important
devoted to this particular field in America. Of ity
original manuscripts, first editions, etc.. New York is
justly proud. It includes a large collection of early
books, including examples of Lambert Palmart, of
Valencia, the first printer of Spain, with some specimens
of contemporary printers of Germany and Italy for the
jDurposes of comparison; first editions of important
Spanish authors and a unique special collection, includ-
ing nearly every known edition of "Don Quixote" —
itself an item of absorbing interest and value; auto-
graph letters of Charles the Fifth and the Duke of Wel-
lington; manuscripts of George Borrow and Robert
Southey; ancient maps and. rare old prints and beauti-

331

fully illumined mediaeval liturgical books. The society
gives its cordial co-operation to sincere workers and upon
application to the library the treasures of the library are
freely placed at the disposal of readers. Reader's cards
may be had from the Librarian. It is doubtful if a
similar collection of Spanish memorabilia is extant in
any other country of the world.

Its famous paintings are undoubtedly entitled to the
high praise bestowed upon them as they are of excep-
tional importance. The Spanish Painter^ El Greco^ is
best represented by The Holy Family.

Valesquez, the greatest, is represented by the Portrait
of a Little Girl, Portrait of a Cardinal, and a full-length,
life-size portrait of the Duke of Olivares.

Morales: Madonna and Child, and Goya: The Second
of May, The Duchess of Alba and General Foraster.
Also paintings by Moro, Zubaran, etc., and by Sala, For-
tuny, Domingo and Rico.

Of the great living Spanish painters, Sorolla and
Zuloaga, there is Leonese Peasants; Portraits of
Jose Echegaray and of Vincent e Blasco Ibanez, the
Spanish novelist now so popular for his "Four Horsemen
of the Apocalypse, by the former and family of a Gipsey
Bullfighter, and portrait of the painter by himself of
the latter.

Sorolla, by the way, was introduced to the art public
of the new world by the Hispanic, whose notable exhi-
bition of his work is still pleasantly remembered in New
York.

The Hispanic is constantly growing in influence.

A bronze bust of Collis P. Huntington, father of the
founder and to whom the building is a memorial, is of
special interest. It is on the right as you enter. The
building is open from 10 to 5 every day of the week,
but the library is closed on Sundays and Mondays.

332

There are_, of course^ dozens of other institutions, all
doing great work for the city, like the Genealogical and
Biographical Society, which devotes itself to family his-
tory. The Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen, at 16
West 44th Street, one of the oldest bodies (1785); the
Society Library, our first public library, on University
Place, and dozens of others. We can only enumerate
those likely to have some interest for the visitor.

Our Wonderful Public Schools.

There are over five hundred and fifty public schools
in the city, the attendance of which aggregates some
nine hundred thousand pupils. These are located all
over the city. New buildings are constantly in course
of construction, but the complaint of inadequate service
is constant. Each year sees a long article in the papers
about "part time" scholars, and various remedies are pro-
posed. The reason for this state of affairs is not always
lack of school room. Populations in the City have a way
of shifting from year to year, that puzzles the authori-
ties to know just what to do. One section ol the city
will have more than enough school room, while another
not far distant will have far from enough. School houses
are expensive, and when business suddenly drives out
all the families in its particular neighborhood, the mov-
ing of the school is not always practical. In addition
to this oddity of metropolitan life there is the constant
influx of new families from all over the country.

More use of the buildings is now made than formerly.
Night sessions in many of them for advanced pupils is
more or less general, and hundreds of lectures with lan-
tern slides and moving pictures, are held every evening
throughout the winter season. No admission to these
lectures is charged, and almost every known subject is
discussed and illustrated at some time or other by a
recognized authority. The community idea is also gain-

333

ing ground, and many meetings of purely local interest
are held in these buildings. Community singing is also
quite an important feature. Central Park has been
the scene of many such gatherings on summer evenings,
and on Christmas eve quite a celebration is had in
Madison Square, on which occasion a Community Christ-
mas Tree wonderfully decorated with many electric lights,
is an added attraction.

"The Black Belt."

In the neighborhood of Lenox Avenue, beyond the
130th Streets and extending a short distance East and
West, is a section densely populated by negroes. Dur-
ing the War quite an exodus set in from the South, and
we now have a colored population of nearly a hundred
thousand.

Long stretches of individual bouses and apartments
formerly occupied by whites, have been abandoned to
the newcomers. They have a theatre of their own in
which legitimate plays are given with a caste entirely
composed of negroes, in the daily newspapers.

Strange to relate, our colored citizens very early showed
puB Supu^p Sop ^ifspj:jsmra :^j[oddns o:^ uopBm[ouiSTp v
vaudeville. So the proprietors of the Lafayette Theatre,
the negro playhouse at the corner of 137th Street and
Seventh Avenue, formed their troupe into a regular
stock company and they are now known as the Lafayette
Players. This versatile troupe of colored actors will
ultimately tour the leading cities of the North and
South, playing "Faust," "Madame X." "Tribly," "The
Fortune Hunter," "Resurrection," "Dr. Jekyll and Mr.
Hyde," "The Rosary," "Seven Keys to Baldpate," and
a hundred different dramas, ranging from the classic
to Broadway farce.

335

~ mmm

HISPANIC SOG

American Geographical Society, the American Indian Museum, Hej^

on Broadway,

.«Sii^ ^^0Sr

,^f

.'» ^ ■ ^"^

OF AMERICA

dation and the Numismatic Society. A Notable Group of Buildings
156th Streets

RANDOM NOTES

Nearly opposite old St. John's Methodist Church *on
John Street was the site of the second theatre in New
York. It was known in Colonial days as the Royal.
The father of Joseph Jefferson played here and during
the British occupation it was much frequented by His
Majesty's officers. Major Andre, who was an amateur
playwright of no mean ability, had several of his plays
produced here during the Revolution.

But what is perhaps its most interesting event was
the night when Washington, then President, attended.
That well-known song, "Hail Columbia," was composed
in honor of the event, and played for the first time by
the orchestra under the direction of the composer, Fyles.
Few persons are aware of the birth of this popular
song, which you see has quite a distinguished origin.

* * -X- * 4«-

And, speaking of songs, reminds us of another one
that has enjoyed lasting popularity, "The American
Flag," written by Joseph Rodman Drake, another New
Yorker. The rollicking chorus of this ballad, "Three
Cheers for the Red, White and Blue," might well be
called the father of all the Cohan-Berlin syncopated
ragtime-jazz music, now so universally popular.

Drake was a contemporary and friend of Irving's.
He was a most promising young poet, but died at the
early age of twentv-five. His 'Culprit Fay" is one of
the most fanciful poems in literature. To Fitz Greene
Halleck, his devoted friend, his loss was a sorrow which
he never forgot. His lament beginning:

Green be the turf above thee,
Friend of my better days,
None knew thee but to love thee
Nor named thee bnt to praise.

still remains one of the most touching tributes in English
poetry.

338

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS

CONEY ISLAND, ROCKAWAY BEACH, THE INTERSTATE PALISADE

PARK, BEAR MOUNTAIN, HIGHLANDS OF THE HUDSON,

WEST POINT.

TT is quite impossible in a book of ordinary size to
speak at length of all the features of New York that
are more or less of interest to the stranger. Besides the
city^ there are its environs like Coney Island, for instance,
that are practically part of the metropolis. A quarter of
a million people sometimes spend the day at Coney
Island, which is one of the really great sights of the
world.

It is not more than forty minutes from almost any
station in the subway, and ranks among one of the most
popular resorts near a great city in the world. It fronts
directly on the ocean. The bathing is a great attraction,
and there is generally a cool breeze blowing. A portion
of the beach is now a public park. From the East side,
take the subway at 60th Street on the Lexington Avenue
line. On the West Side, subway, take the 42nd Street
station. You can use any of the stations in between to
reach those points, as best suits your convenience.

340

A very delightful route to Coney Island is by boat.
Starting from 129th Street and sailing down the North
River, touching at Pier 1, near the Battery, we get a
splendid view of the docks and shipping of New York
with the tall buildings in the background, and the ever-
changing scenes of river traffic on our right. As we pilot
our way into the bay the historic Governor's Island
appears on our left and the famous Statue of Liberty
on our right. Passing these landmarks we sail along the
beautiful shore of Bay Ridge — another Brooklyn sub-
urb — with its fine residences and its splendidly built
Shore Road stretching all the way down to Fort Hamil-
ton and the Narrows. At this point we emerge into the
ocean and get a taste of the ocean breezes at first hand,
and if our voyager is at all languid from the effects of
the heat, the oxygen of the Atlantic transforms him, in
an incredibly short time, into a most lively and vivalcious
pleasure seeker.

The Rockaways and Jamaica Bay.

Next to Coney Island, Rockaway Beach is the most
attractive of all the nearby resorts and in some respects
it is even more delightful than its famous neighbor.
The trip by water is a most pleasant one. To those who
go to Rockaway by train the fishing stations on Jamaica
Bay, just before reaching your destination, present a
curious and rather perplexing puzzle of winding water
ways, zig-zagging and crossing each other in an inter-
minable maze. But the fishermen who frequent these
perplexing waters know all the outs and ins, the deeps
and shallows, the currents and eddies of this most strange
fishing ground. The sensation of crossing this bay is
peculiar. You wonder whether you are on land or water.
Besides Rockaway Beach itself, where the crowds go,
there is the beautiful Rockaway Park, a few miles far-
ther west on the beach — a quiet and select place. And

341

in the other direction there is the fashionable Far Rock-
away with its incomparable stretch of sandy beach, and
Arverne with its many fine residences.

For any one who likes a trolley ride through the
country, a very pleasant way to return from Far Rock-
away is to take the trolley car which starts from near
the station and crosses the island to Jamaica. There the
street car or elevated may be taken to New York. The
trip this way consumes more than two hours, but is most
enjoyable and gives the traveller a view of a very fine
suburban part of Brooklyn and the village of Jamaica,
itself a residential section of Brooklyn, which is growing
very fast and is building up with handsome residences.
From here car lines run to Flushing, Corona, College
Point, and thence back to New York by Queensborough
Bridge.

Sandy Hook and Back.

For a purely ocean trip nothing can surpass the sail
to Sandy Hook and back. It matters not how the tem-
perature may be on land, old ocean never fails to roll
and toss and blow to your heart's content. The swift
steamers that ply between the city from the foot of
Liberty Street to the Atlantic Highlands usually carry a
full passenger list. Many of them do not leave the boat
at Sandy Hook, but come right back. All they want is
the ocean breezes and the invigorating effect of real deep
sea sailing.

It is a pleasant trip, costs $2.50 return fare, and takes
about one hour each way.

The trains connect with the railroad running to all
the famous Jersey Shore resorts you have heard so much
about — Long Branch, Ocean Grove, Asbury Park, Sea
Girt, Elberon, Spring Lake, Bradley Beach, etc.

There are also some delightful short trips to Long
Island by motor car or railroad. Oyster Bay, where

342

Roosevelt is buried, is about an hour out. Garden City,
with its famous hotel, cathedral and great publishing
house of Doubleday, Page & Co., and Camp Mills. Other
resorts further out include Wheatley Hills, Old West-
bury, Piping Rock, South, East and AVest Hampton —
all containing the Summer homes of wealthy New York-
ers. A ride on the Jericho Turnpike or on the famous
Motor Parkway, that extends fifty miles into Long
Island to Lake Ronkonkoma, is well worth taking. Con-
sult the Long Island Railroad time table for further
particulars.

North of the city in Westchester County are two or
three particularly interesting places. Long Vue, on the
highest point of land near the city on the Hudson River,
affords magnificent views of the river and in all direc-
tions. It is about 40 minutes out by motor or by rail.
The nearest station is Hastings-on-Hudson on the New
York Central. Briar Cliff Lodge, about forty miles out,
is another delightful resort. Gedney Farms, at White
Plains, and the Hotel Gramatan, at La-wrence Park,
Bronxville, are also well worth a visit.

Yonkers, Irvington, (Washington Irving's home,)
Tarrytown and its old Sleepy Hollow Cemetery, nearly
250 years old, and containing the only Dutch church
standing (built in 1688) in this part of the country.
Here are the graves of Andrew Carnegie, Washington
Irving and the captors of Major Andre. John R. Rocke-
feller and his brother, William, live just north of Tarry-
town, besides that of many other well known people.
These are all on the Central lines within an hour of the
city.

On the eastern side of the county are the pretty little
villages of New Rochelle, Larchmont, Greenwich and
Cos Cob. They face the waters of Long Island Sound
and provide homes for some of the vast army of New
York commuters. They are on the New Haven Railroad.

343

Trolley cars connect all these little places in some
way or another^ and on an open car in Summer the trip
is very pleasant and the country very beautiful.

It is doubtful if any other large city has quite so
many attractive environs as Nevr York. As a Summer
resort itself, it is among the most popular in the country.
With a few trifling exceptions the weather, even in July
and August, is not at all uncomfortable and almost every
night a cool breeze springs up and the evenings are
enj oyable.

Seashore, river and mountain are all readily reached
within a few hours from the city. All the places we
have mentioned can be visited and return with ample time
for sight seeing, within a day. Even Atlantic City is
reached within two and a half hours and special trains
in the Summer on Sundays make the trip there and back
within the day, allowing nearly six hours at the beach.
And Block Island, twenty miles out in the ocean from
the end of Long Island, is another Sunday one-day trip.
In short, there are many numerous delightful outings,
including a day's deep sea fishing out in the broad At-
lantic, that is easily and cheaply made from the city.
Golf, tennis and baseball, by world famous clubs and
players, are of almost daily occurrence and no one need
lack for amusement of any kind in or around New York.
The famous Forest Hills tennis courts are fifteen minutes
out on the Long Island Railroad, and the Polo Grounds
are at 155th Street and Eighth Avenue. Dozens of golf
clubs are near the city.

Outsiders in New York

The United States Census Bureau gives the following list of
outsiders who are living in New York City:

Alabama 2,165 Nebraska 934

Arizona 393 Nevada 239

Arkansas 577 New Hampshire 2,857

California 4,827 New Jersey 69,898

Colorado 1,105 New Mexico 360

344

Connecticut 25,235

Delaware 2,003

District of Columbia 4,781

Florida 2,399

Georgia 6,798

Idaho 341

Illinois 12,938

Indiana 4,356

Iowa '. ... 2,712

Kansas 1,266

Kentucky 4,520

Louisiana 3,331

Maine 6,693

Maryland 12,562

Massachusetts 34,977

Michigan 5,238

Minnesota 2,138

Mississippi 1,02S

Missouri 5,443

Montana 458

North Carolina 10,736

North Dakota 152

Ohio 16,549

Oklahoma 194

Oregon 360

Pennsylvania 54,904

Rhode Island 5,655

South Carolina 8,229

South Dakota 199

Tennessee 2,425

Texas 2,387

Utah 320

Vermont 5,205

Virginia •. . . 28,862

Washington 753

West Virginia 1,279

Wisconsin 3,190

Wyoming 341

NEW YORK'S GREAT WAR MEMORIAL

As the chief city in the Union, New York will un-
doubtedly erect a magnificent monument to the Heroes
of the Great War. Mr. Rodman Wanamaker is chair-
man of the Mayor's Committee and the following prom-
inent citizens are the members :

Adams, Dr. P. H.

Adams, Herbert

Adamson, Robert

Agar, John C.

Albee, Col. E. F.

Alexander, Major Gen. Robert

Anderson, EUery O.

Appel, John W., Jr.

Appleton, Gen. Daniel

Auchincloss, Gordon

Babcock, W^oodward

Caker, George F.

Baker, George F., .Tr.

Baker, Stephen

Baldwin, Le Roy W.

Bannard, Otto T.

Bartlett, Paul W.

Barclay, J. Searle

Battle, George G.

Baylies, Edmund L.

Beal, Gifford

Beard, Anson

Berolzh-eimer. Philip

Berwind, E. J.

Berry, Lt. Col. C. W.

Bigelow, Ernest A.

Blair, John Inslee

Blashfleld, Edwin H.

Boomer, L. M.

Borden, Col. H. S.

Bowman, John McE.

Boyle, Edward F.

Brady, Nicholas F.

Brannon, Dr. J. W^.

Breed, William C.

Brown, Charles S.

Brown, Dr. Ellsworth

Bruckner, Henry

Brunner, Arnold W.

Bullard, Major Gen. Robert L.

Burch, Rt. Rev. C. H.

Burr, William P.

Burrell, Rev. D. J.

Calder, William M.

Cameron, W. Scott

Campbell, H. D.

Candler, Duncan

Carey, Frederic F.

Chalfin, Paul

Chaplin, Dr. H. D.

Choate, Joseph H.

Clarke, E. A. S.

Clarke, T. B., Jr.

Clews, Henry

345

Cockran, W. Bourke
Coler, Bird S.
Compton, George B.
Conboy, Martin
Connolly, Maurice E.
Cooke, G. E.
Cooke, Dr. R. A.
Cooke, Robert Grier
Cortelyou, George B.
Coudert, Frederic B.
Cowdin, John E.
Craig, Charles L.
Cravath, Paul D.
Crowninshield, Frank
Cruger, Bertram de'N.
Cruger, Major F. H.
Curran, Henry H.
Cutting, R. Fulton
Davie, Col. Preston
Day, William A.
Day, Joseph P.
Davies, Julien T.
Davison, Henry P.
Dodge, Cleveland H.
Delafield, Richard
De Rahm, Frederic F.
Dillingham, C. B.
Donovan, Col. W. J.
Drayton, J. Coleman
Dreicer, Michael
Drennan, Thomas
Du Pont, T. Coleman
Dunn, Robert R.
Duffleld, Rev. Howard
Dwyer, John F.
Dyer, Gen. G. R.
Edgar, N. Le Roy
Edwards, William H.
Elkus, Abram L.
Emerson, Guy
Enright, Richard E.
Fairchild, Samuel W.
Faxon, William B.
Finley, John H.
Fish, Major H., Jr.
Fiske, Haley
Fiske, Rear Admiral

Bradley A.
Foley, James A.
Posdick, Raymond B.
Foster, F. de P.
Franklin, P. A. S.
Freelander, J. H.
French, Amos Tuck
French. Daniel C.
Frew, '\^ . E.
Friedsam, Michael
Frissell, A. S.
Frost, John S.

Gallatin, Albert E.
Gibson, Charles Dana
Gleaves, Vice Admiral Albert
Glennon, Rear Admiral

James H.
Goff, John W., Jr.
Golden, John L.
Goodrich, Lieut. Col. David M.
Gordon, Gordon
Grant, Rollin P.
Griscom, Lloyd C.
Guerrin, Jules
Guggenheim, S. R.
Guggenheim, E. A.
Gunnison, Herbert F.
Harding, J. Horace
Harmon, John N.
Harriman, Joseph W.
Harriman, Oliver
Harries, John A.
Harris, Tracey Hyde
Tlarvey, George
Hastings, Thomas
Iiawkes, McDougall
Hayes, Rt. Rev. P. J.
Hedges, Job E.
Hemphill, A. J.
Higgins, C. M.
Hogan, Edward J.
Holt, Dr. L. Emmett
i^Toppin, William W.
House, Col. E. M.
Houston, Herbert S.
Hoyt, Allen G.
Hoyt, Capt. Lydig
Hulbert, Murray
Huntington, A. M.
Huntsman, R. F. R.
Iselin, Adrian
James, Arthur C.
Jenks, Jeremiah W.
Johnson, Alfred J.
Johnson, Bradish G.
Johnson, Robert U.
Juilliard, Frederic A.
Kahn, Otto H.
Kane, Grenville
Kaufman, Louis G.
Keep, Charles H.
Kelsey, Clarence H.
Kernochan, Frederic
Kingsley, Darwin P.
Knott, David H.
Kountze, Lieut. Col. W. de

Lancey
Krech, Alvin W.
Kuntz, George F.
Lahey, William J.
Lamont, Thomas W.

346

Lamb, Charles R.
Larkin, William P.
Lavelle, Rt. Rev. M. J.
Leach, John A.
Lee, Frederic G.
Ledyard, Lewis Cass
Leslie, Warren
Lewis, William E.
Lewisohn, Adolph
Lorillard, Pierre, Jr.
Lowrie, Charles N.
Lindeberg, H. T.
Lynn, Preston P.
McAdoo, W. Gibbs
McAdoo, William
INIcAlpin, Dr. D. H.
McAteer, Howard
McCormack, John
McCarthy, Thomas D.
McClellan, George B.
McCook, Philip J.
MacDonald, Henry
McGarrah, Gates W.
MacMonnies, F. W.
Mackay, Clarence H.
Manning-, Rev. W. T.
Mansfield, Howard
Marling, A. E.
Marston, E. S.
Milburn, John G.
Miller, Dr. Frank E.
Mills, Major Ogden L.
Moran, Robert L.
Morgan, J. P.
Morgan, William F,
Morris, B. W.
Moore, John B.
Mott, John R.
Murphy, Patrick E.
Munsey, Frank
Murchison, Kenneth
Nast, Conde
Newberger, J. E.
Newton, Byron R.
Nicoll, Delancey
Xixon, Lewis
O'Brien, Morgan J.
Ochs, Adolph S.
Ohl, J. K.
Olcott, E. E.

O'Ryan, Major Gen. J. F.
Osborn, Henry F.
Parker, Alton B.
Parson. Col. W. B.
Patchin, Robert H.
Patten, Thomas G.
Peabody, Charles A.
Pell, Herbert C.
Perkins, George W.

Pitcher, Lewis F.

Pendleton, Justice F. K.

Phipps, John S.

Polk, Frank 1 ..

Pomroy, Frank Ij.

Pope, John Kusis^ii

Porter, W. H.

Porter, A. D.

Porter, Gen. Horace

Post, Augustus,

Pratt, Carroll H.

Presbrey, Frank

Prosser, Seward

Pulitzer, Ralph

Pyne, Percy R.

Reid, Ogden

Reid, Daniel C.

Deiland, Rev. Karl

Rhines, Isaac O.

Riegelmann, Edward

Richie, John M.

Ricliardtj, Eben

Robbins, Arden M.

Robinson, Capt. M. D.

Robinson, Edward

Rogers, Jason

Robbins, Very Rev. H. C.

Robinson, William S.

Rockefeller, P. A.

Root, Elihu

Roosevelt, F. D.

Ryan, Allan A.

Rvan, Daniel L.

Sabin, Charles H.

Satterlee, Herbert L.

Sayer, Francis B.

Schiff, Mortimer L.

Schwab, Charles M.

Scribner. Charles

Seligman, Henry

Shanks, Major Gen. David C.

Shaw, John M.

Sheldon. Edward W.

Shepard, Finley J.

Sherry, Louis

Shulhof, Otto B.

Sinclair, Harry F.

Sinnott, James

Sinnott, John F.

Smith, Alfred E.

Smith, R. A. C.

Snyder. Valentine P.

Somers, Arthur S.

Spedden, F. O.

Stanchfield, John B.

Stern, Louis

Stetson, Francis L.

Stettinius. E. R.

Stewart, W. R.

Stillman, James A.

347

Stimson, Col. H. L.
Stires, Rev. E. M.
Strong, Benjamin
Sutphen, Henry R.
Swann, Edward
Swartwout, Egerton
Talbot, Richmond
Talley, Alfred" J.
Tams, J. Frederic
Thayer, E. V. R.
Thomas, Augustus
Thompson, Col. J. De Mont
Timlow, William F.
Trowbridge, S. B. P.
Tuckerman, Paul
Twitchell, H. K.
Vail, Theodore N.
Van Dyke, Dr. H.
Vanderbilt, W. K., Jr.

Vanderlip, Frank A.
Vogel, Martin
Wagstaff, David
Walker, A. S.
Wallace, J. N.
Walsh, William E.
Warburg, Felix M.
Waterman, L. E.
White, Gaylord S.
White, James G.
Whitehouse, J. N. de R.
Wickersham, G. W.
Wiggin, Albert H.
Williams, Lt. Col. R. H., Jr.
Williams, Talcott
Wilmerding, Lucius
Wilson, George T.
Wingate, Gen. G. W.
Winthrop, H. R.

A committee of the Victory Hall Memorial Associa-
tion, consisting of George Gordon Battle, James E.
Cushman and Mrs. C. C. Rumsey, daughter of Mrs.
E. H. Harriman, called on President F. H. LaGuardia
of the Board of Aldermen, to discuss the erection of
the hall on the site of the old Grand Union Hotel, Park
Avenue, Forty-first to Forty-second Street.

This is a very ambitious project, the building alone
costing over ten million dollars. It has not yet been
fully decided upon, but is one of the many suggestions
made for the Monument.

348

' ' ' ii ^^^HHIHHBHf

WHERE PROMINENT PERSONS LIVE

\ VERY prominent resident of the city passed away
''^^'-just recently. Mr. Andrew Carnegie. His late
home occupies the block between 90th and 91st Streets.
The best known residents of the city are perhaps J. P.
Morgan and J. D. Rockefeller. The latter does not live
exactly on the Avenue, but just a step west on 54th
Street, and the former on Madison Av-enue, corner 36th
Street. Many of the persons mentioned in the following
list live on Fifth Avenue above 59th Street, East of
Central Park. This mile or so contains the homes of
New York leaders in society, finance and commerce. A
ride on top of the Fifth Avenue 'bus going to 110th
Street will take you past the section and by reference to
this list you can easily keep informed as you ride by. A
leisurely walk is of course likely to prove more satis-
factory, as the 'bus doesn't give you time for more than
a fleeting glimpse.

Mr. J. P. Morgan, 231 Madison Avenue.

Mr. John D. Rockefeller, Jr., 10 West 54th Street.

Mr. Robert W. Chambers, 43 East 83rd Street.

Mr. Vincent Astor, 840 Fifth Avenue.

349

Mrs. Burke Roche, 23 West 53rd Street.
Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt, 1 West 57th Street.
Mr. Theodore N. Vail, 150 West 59th Street (Navarro).
Mr. Arthur Curtiss James, 39 East 69th Street.
Mr. Cleveland H. Dodge, 90 Park Avenue.
Mr. Henry E. Huntington, 2 East 57th Street.
Mr. Archer M. Huntington, 15 West 81st Street.
Mr. George Grey Barnard, 454 Fort Washington Avenue.
Miss Elsie Janis, 55 W^est 71st Street.
Mr. Julian Street, 151 West S6th Street.
Hon. Franklin D. Roosevelt, 47 East 65th Street.
Mr, George F. Baker, 258 Madison Avenue,
Mr. George F. Baker, Jr., 260 Madison Avenue.
Mr. Thos. F. Ryan, 858 Fifth Avenue.
Mr, Francis L.ynde Stetson, 4 East 74th Street.
Mr. John G. Milburn, 16 West 10th Street.
Col. M. Friedsam, 400 Park Avenue.
Mr. I. N. Phelps Stokes, 118 East 22nd Street.
Mr. Samuel Sloan, 45 East 53rd Street.
Mr. Nicholas F. Brady, 989 Fifth Avenue.
Mr. George B. Cortelyou, Riverdale-on-Hudson.
Hon. Lindley Garrison, 399 Park Avenue.
Mr. Frank A. Munsey, "Sherrys".
Mr. Ogden Reid Mills, 2 East 69th Street.
Dr. Samuel W. Lambert, 130 East 35th Street.
Pres. Nicholas Murray Butler, 60 Morningside Drive.
Mr. John Drew, 96 Central Park West.
Mr. David Belasco, 115 West 44th Street.
Mr. George M. Cohan

Mr. Arthur P. Williams, 117 West 58th Street.
Mr. Otto Kahn, 1100 Fifth Avenue.
Hon. George M. Wickersham, 30 East 70th Street.
Miss Elsie Ferguson, 294 Riverside Drive.
Miss Jane Cowl, 186 West 86th Street.
Mr. H. O. Havemeyer, 1 East 66th Street.
Mr. Reginald de Koven, 1025 Park Avenue.
Mr. Victor Herbert, 321 West 108th Street.
Mr. Irving Berhn, 30 West 70th Street.
Mr. Irvin Cobb, 116 West 120th Street.
Mrs. Richard Harding Davis, 19 Sheridan Square.
Mr. Chas. Dana Gibson, 127 East 73rd Street.
Mr. H. P. Davison, 690 Park Avenue.
Mr. Frank Vanderlip, Plaza Hotel.
Mr. Samuel Untermeyer, 2 East 54th Street.
Mr. Charles M. Schwab, Riverside Drive and 73rd Street.
Mr. Theo. Roosevelt, 201 West 74th Street.
Capt. Archie Roosevelt, 201 West 78th Street.
Col. E. M. House, 115 East 53rd Street.

Mrs. Sayre (Pres. Wilson's daughter), 173 West 81st Street.
Mr. Jacob Schiff (Mortimer L. at 2 East 80th Street).
Mr. August Belmont, 820 Fifth Avenue.
Mr. Brander Matthews, 337 West 87th Street.
Sig. Enrico Caruso, Knickerbocker Hotel.
Miss Louise Homer, 38 West 64th Street.
Miss Geraldine Farrar, 290 Riverside Drive.
Miss Mar>' Garden, 196 Central Park West.
Miss Mary Pickford, 240 West 68th Street.
Mr. Douglas Fairbanks, 119 Central Park West.

350

Mr. James B. Duke, 1 East 7Sth Street.

Mr, E. H. Sothern, Hotel Lorraine.

Miss Julia Marlowe, Hotel Lorraine.

Mrs. H. P. Wnitney, 871 Pifch Avenue.

Miss Eva Tanguay, 160 West 96th Street.

Miss Blanche Bates, 630 West 121st Street.

Mr. Fredk. McMonnies, 110 West 56th Street.

Mr. Geo. Innes, Jr., 525 Park Avenue.

Miss Maud Adams, 960 Park Avenue.

Mr. W. R. Hearst, 137 Riverside Drive.

Ml'. Rube Goldberg, 420 W^est End Avenue.

Mr. Payne Whitney, 972 Fifth Avenue.

Mr. Chas. F. Murphy, Fifth Avenue and 44th Street.

Mr. Delancey Nicoll, 23 East 39th Street.

Mr. W. B. Osgood Field, 645 Fifth Avenue.

Mr. W. T. Hornaday, Zoological Park.

Mr. Rodman Wanamaker, 37 West 56th Street.

Mr. Howard Chandler Christy, 15 West 67th Street.

Mr. Grantland Rice, 450 Riverside Drive,

Mr. John McGraw, 228 West 112th Street,

Col. Wm. Hayward, 120 Broadway,

Gov. Al. Smith, 25 Oliver Street.

Mr. Ralph Pulitzer, 17 East 73rd Street.

Miss Frances Starr, 220 West 45th Street.

Miss Anne Morgan, 219 Madison Avenue.

Mr. De Wolf Hopper, 27 West 49th Street,

Mr. Fred Stone, 27 Madison Avenue.

Mr. Job Hedges, Union League Club, 1 West 39th Street.

Mrs. John Perroy Mitchel

Mr. Nathan Straus, 645 West End Avenue.

Mr, Adolph Lewisohn, 881 Fifth Avenue,

Mr, Harrison Fisher, 15 West 67th Street.

Miss Ida Tarbell, 19 Sheridan Square.

Mr. Ernest Thompson Seton, 6 East 58th Street.

Archbishop Hayes, Madison Avenue and 50th Street.

Miss Emma Goldman, 19 Avenue B,

Ex-Gov. Charles E. Hughes, 32 East 64th Street,

Hon. Elihu Root, 908 Fifth Avenue.

Hon. Chauncey M. Depew. 27 AVest 54th Street.

Judge Alton B. Parker, Metropolitan Club,

]\Tr. D. G. Reid, 907 Fifth Avenue.

Mr. Frederic K. Coudert, 124 East 56th Street.

Mr, Clarence Mackay, 834 Fifth Avenue.

Mr. Joseph Hergesheimer, 160 Central Park West.

Mr. Richard Le Galliene, 123 Riverside Drive.

Dr. Lyman Abbott, 431 Fourth Avenue.

Mr. David Warfield, 196 West S6th Street.

Mr. Lionel Barrymore, 117 West 74th Street.

Mr. Chas. Scribner, 9 East 66th Street.

Mr. Geo. H. Putnam, 333 West 86th Street.

Mr. James W. Gerard, 9 East 91st Street,

Mr. Rex Beach, 17 West 66th Street.

Bishop Burch, Amsterdam Avenue and 110th Street.

Mr. Rupert Hughes, 37 Morningside Avenue.

Mrs. Willard Straight, 1130 Fifth Avenue.

Mr. W. Bourke Cockran, 107 East 73rd Street.

Mr. Herbert L. Pratt, 907 Fifth Avenue.

Mr. James K. Hackett, 58 West 71st Street.

351

Mr. T. C. Dupont, 11 East 78th Street.

Mrs. J. G. Stokes (Rose Pastor), 88 Grove Street.

Bishop Charles H. Burch, Amsterdam Avenue and 110th Street

Mr. William Dean Howells, 50 East 58th Street.

Mr. Hamlin Garland, 71 East 92nd Street.

Mr. James Montgomery Flagg, 33 West 67th Street.

Mr. Frank J. Sprague, 71st Street and West End Avenue.

Mr. James Lane Allen, 460 West End Avenue.

Miss Viola Allen, 167 West 81st Street.

Mr. Winthrop Ames, 270 Park Avenue.

Miss Margaret Anglin, 33 West 42nd Street.

Miss Gertrude Atherton, 547 West 145th Street.

Mr. John Kendrick Bangs, 145 East 63rd Street.

Mr. Bernard Baruch, 135 West 79th Street.

Mr. Balhngton Booth, 34 West 28th Street.

Mr. Gutzon Borgium, 166 East 3Sth Street.

Mr. Wilham J. Burns, 233 Broadway.

Mr. Arthur Brisbane, 112 East 61st Street.

Mr. William A. Clark, 13 West 102nd Street.

Miss Rose Coughlan, 253 West 42nd Street.

Mr. Timothy Cole, 507 West End Avenue.

Mr. Kenyon Cox, 134 East 67th Street.

Ml-. Palmer Cox, 145 East 70th Street.

Miss Henrietta Crosman, 186 West 93rd Street.

Miss Rachel Crothers, 138 East 40th Street.

Mr. Alan Dale, 257 West 128th Street.

Mr. Walter Damrosch, 146 East 61st Street.

Mr. Robert W. De Forest, 7 Washington Square, N.

Mr. Richard Delafield, 40 West 46th Street.

Miss Elsie de Wolfe, 2 West 47st Street.

Mr. Dwight Elmendorf, 201 East 68th Street.

Miss Maxine Elhott, 109 West 39th Street.

Mr. William Faversham, 187 West 69th Street.

Miss Minnie Maddern Fiske, 135 West 69th Street.

Mr. Simeon Ford, 43 West 74th Street.

Mr. Daniel Chester French, 12 West 8th Street.

Mr, Daniel Frohman, 145 West 79th Street.

Mr. Elbert H. Gary, 856 Fifth Avenue.

Mr. Giulius Gatti-Casazza, 832 Riverside Drive.

Miss Grace George, 137 West 48th Street.

Mr. Cass Gilbert, 42 East 64th Street.

Mr. Walker Whiteside, Hastings, N. Y.

Mr. Montague Glass. 376 West 78th Street.

Col. Edward H. Green, 215 West 8Sth Street.

Miss Louise Closser Hale, 27 Washington Square, N.

Mr. Will N. Harben, 145 East 63rd Street.

Miss Frances Burton Harrison, 653 West End Avenue.

Mr. George Harvey, 171 Madison Avenue.

Mr. Al. Hayman, 1430 Broadway.

Mr. Oliver Herford. 167 West 74th Street.

Mr. Peter Cooper Hewitt, 18 East 33rd Street.

Mr. Robert Hilliard. 176 East 61st Street.

Mr. Herbert C. Hoover, 173 East 81st Street.

Mr. Walker D, Hines. 122 East 70th Street.

Mr. Wallace Irwin, 183 West 93rd Street.

Mr. William Travers Jerome, 103 East 84th Street.

Mr. .Heywood Broun, 195 Claremont Avenue.

MF'-Charles Rann Kennedy, 156 East 38th Street.

352

Mr. George F. Kunz, 601 West 110th Street.

Mr. Thomas W. Lamont, 49 East 65th Street.

Mr. Isaac V. Marcosson, 18 West 25th Street.

Miss Edith Wynne Matthison, 734 Riverside Drive.

Mr. James S. Metcalf, 2 West 67th Street.

Mr. Henry Miller, 50 West 112th Street.

Mr. Francis D. Millet, 146 East 73rd Street.

Mr. Cleveland Moffett, 621 West End Avenue.

Mr. Henry Morg-ehthau, 30 West 72nd Street.

Mr. Joseph Pennell, 132 East 32nd Street.

Mr. Michael I. Pupin, 1 West 72nd Street.

Mr. Burr Mcintosh, 102 West 42nd Street.

Franklin P. Adams ("F. P. A."), 6]2 West 112th Street.

Mr. Philip D. Armour, 1067 Fifth Avenue.

Mrs. Sara Cooper Hewitt. 144 East 39th Street.

Mr. Paul Dana, 1 Fifth Avenue.

Mr. Lispenard Stewart, 6 Fifth Avenue.

Miss Kitty Cheatham, 274 Madison Avenue.

Miss Norma Tallmadge, 318 East 48th Street.

Miss Marguerite Clark. 311 West 28th Street.

Miss Clara Kimball Young, 33 West 42nd Street.

Mrs. Marv Pobej'ts Rinehart. 823 Riverside Drive.

Miss Ethel Barrymore. 167 West 85th Street.

Mr. Arthur Williams, Union League Club.

Fifth Avenue Section

Mrs. John Jacob Astor No. 840

Mr. Edwin Gould " 936

Mr. Francis Burton Harrison " 876

Rev. Alfred Duane Pell " 929

Mr. William Rockefeller " 689

Mr. Thos. F. Ryan " 858

Mr. Jacob H. Schiff " 965

Mrs. Finley J. Shepard (Miss Helen M.

Gould) " 579

Mr. B. N. Duke " 200

Mrs. Marcus Daly " 225

Mr. Anthony J. Drexel, Jr " 1051

Mr. Fred'k S. Flower " 612

Mr. Henry Clay Frick 5th Ave. cor. 70th St.

Mr. Robert Goelet No. 647

Mr. S. R. Guggenheim ? " 743

Mr. Rob't L. Gerry " 816

Mr. Wm. Guggenheim , " 833

Judge E. H. Gary " 856

Mr. Geo. J. Gould '] 857

Mr. Adrian Iselin, Jr " 711

Mr. Wm. E. Iselin \\ 745

Mr. Philip Lewisohn " 923

Mr. Mortimer L. Schiff " 932

Mr. William Salomon " 1020

Mr. Sam'l Untermyer " 675

Gen. Cornehus Vanderbilt " 459

Mr. Wm. K. Vanderbilt " 660

Mrs. Wm. K. Vanderbilt, Jr " 666

Mr. Harrv Payne Whitney " 870

Mrs. Frank W. Woolworth ", 991

Mrs. O. H. P. Belmont No. 477 Madison y

353

Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer 5th Ave. cor. 66th St.

Mrs. E. H. Harriman 5th Ave. cor. 69th St.

Mr. James Speyer No. 257 Madison Ave.

Mrs. Andrew Carnegie 5th Ave. cor. yist St.

Mr. James B. Clews Sth Ave. cor. S5th St.

Mr. James B. Duke 5Lh Ave. cor. 78tii St.

Mrs. Ogden Goelet 608 5th Ave.

Mr. Elbridge T. Gerry 2 East Glyt St.

Judge A. R. Lawrence 69 Washington Place

Mr. Ogden Mills 2 East 69th St.

Mrs. Herman Oelrichs 5th Ave. cor. 57th St.

Mrs. Hamilton McK. Twombly 27 E. 55th St.

Gen. Cornelius Vanderbilt 5th Ave. & 57th St.

Senator William A. Clark 5th Ave. & 77th St.

Mr. John D. Rockefeller 4 West 54th St.

Mr. Wm. H. Vanderbilt 5th Ave., 53-54th Sts.

WESTCHESTER-BILTMORE COUNTRY CLUB

The newest, and what w^ill probably be the most pop-
ular, nearby resort is the Westchester-Biltmore Country
Club, under the direction of John McE. Bowman, presi-
dent of the Pershing Square group of hotels in New
York City. It is situated between the villages of Har-
rison and Rye, in the most picturesque part of West-
chester County. There are two 18-hole golf course;?,
bridle path, i3olo field and a miniature lake for skating
in the winter time. It is regarded as the most wonder-
ful recreation center in the world.

354

OUR BIG MONEY INSTITUTIONS

New York's Enormous Business as Reflected in its
Bank Clearings^ Imports and Exports

"DROADLY speaking, the size of any city's commerce
is more or less indicated by the bank clearings pub-
lished every week. We append the table as of August
23, 1919, from the New York Evening Post. It fortu-
nately gives the figures not only for New York, but for
ten other leading cities, and the comparison of the figures
is very interesting,

1919.

New York $3,618,214,375

Chicago 509,696,896

Philadelphia 361,456.100

Boston 273,719,890

Kansas City 220,500,000

St. Louis 141,512,533

San Francisco 125,000,000

Pittsburgh 111,722,475

Detroit 77,500,000

Baltimore 74,294.351

New Orleans 50,772,263

An idea of the business done by the banks may be
gained from a study of the standing of the seven largest.

355

Compare these with similar figures published in your

own town of your local banks and you get a better idea

of New York's importance in the financial world. These

figures are also from the official statement of May 10,

\919.

Net
Net demand

Capital. Profits. deposits.

National City Bank $25,000,000 $54,132,000 $669,870,000

Chemical National Bank 3,000,000 9,578,700 59,844,000

Atlantic National Bank 1,000,000 958,200 15,406,000

Nat. Butchers & Drovers Bk. . 300,000 109,500 3,992,000

American Exch. Nat. Bank... 5,000,000 6,167,200 88,735,000

National Bank of Commerce.. 25,000,000 25,651,800 271,986,000

Pacific Bank 500,000 1,134,800 17,800,000

Chatham & Phenix Nat. Bank 3,500,000 2,822,400 90,697,000

Hanover National Bank 3,000,000 17,363,900 126,668,000

Citizens National Bank 2,550,000 3,286,300 36,238,000

Metropolitan Bank 2,000,000 2,404,600 31,363,000

Corn Exchani?e Bank 4.200,000 8,290,700 135,224,000

Importers & Traders Nat. Bk. 1,500,000 8,163,800 25,424.000

National Park Bank 5,000,000 19,439,300 168,186,000

East River National Bank.... 1,000,000 626,000 8,501,000

Second National Bank 1,000,000 4,066,500 17,038,000

First National Bank 10,000,000 31,297,500 146,757,000

Irving National Bank 4,500,000 6,112,000 126,352,000

N. Y. County Nat. Bank 1,000,000 421,800 12,135,000

Continental Bank 1,000,000 642,200 6,257,000

Chase National Bank 10,000,000 16,870,700 275,633,000

Fifth Avenue Bank 200,000 2,301,400 20,176,000

Commercial Exchange Bank.. 200,000 858,100 7,578,000

Commonwealth Bank 400,000 762,000 8,542,000

Lincoln National Bank 1,000,000 2,067.000 18,604,000

Garfield National Bank 1,000,000 1,342,000 12,871,000

Fifth National Bank 250,000 397,600 7,753,000

Seaboard National Bank 1,000,000 3,782,400 47,076,000

Liberty National Bank 3,000,000 4,704,900 55,183,000

Coal and Iron Nat. Bank 1.500.000 1,333,600 12,781,000

Union Exchange I, at. Bank... 1,000,000 1,271,200 18,329,000

Brooklyn Trust Co 1,500,000 2,289,800 28,498,000

Bankers Trus' Co 15,000.000 17,361,200 231,923,000

U. S. Mortgage & Trust Co.. 2.000,000 4.551,000 53,311,000

Guaranty Trust Co 25,000,000 28,525,700 481.915,000

New York's part in the five Liberty Loans is equally
interesting. The results were as follows:

Quota Subscribed Subscribers Allotment

First $ 600,000,000 $1,186,788,400 985,150 $ 617,831,650

Second 900,000,000 1,550.453.450 2.182,017 1,164.366.950

Third 900.000.000 1,115.243,650 3.043.123 1,115,243.650

Fourth 1,800,000,000 2,044,931,750 3,004,101 2.044,931,780

Fifth 1.350,000,000 1,875,000,000 3,000,000 1,850,000,000

3.56

The imports and exports figures are also of interest.
In 1918 the

Imports were 1,251,790,373

Exports were 2,616,850,680

Total , 3,863,641,053

In the first four months of 1919 the Treasury Depart-
ment writes me no less than 4^,379 vessels entered and
cleared the Port of New York. The figures for export
and import for 1919 so far available indicated a vast
increase over the huge aniount reported for last year.
The figures before the war, 1913 and 1914, were a good
deal less than half the present returns.

Vast additional dock space on Staten Island has re-
cently been provided to meet this increased foreign
business. The English ocean liners are also erecting
special large new office buildings in lower Broadway on
a scale that gives some idea of the immense business
which they expect to do when they finally strike their
stride. The huge buildings formerly occupied by the
North German Lloyd and the Hamburg-American went
out of existence, coincident with the suicide of their
principal creator, Albert Ballin.

Vast as the business of New York has been with for-
eign countries in the past, it bids fair to totally eclipse
it in the near future.

Some Valuable New York Buildings.

Name

Equitable Building

Mutual Life

Woolworth

New York Life

Bankers Trust Co. . .
Hanover Nat. Bank.
American Surety Co.
United "Bank Bldg. . .
A.mer. Ex. Nat. Bank
Guarantee Trust Co.

Assessed Name Assessed

Valuation Valuation

$25,000,000 N. Y. Telephone $2,700,000

9.500,000 Butterick 1,300,000

9,500,000 Western Electric 1,770,000

4,000.000 Havemeyer 1,080,000

5,800,000 Met. Opera House.. 3,750,000

4,000,000 Macv's Department

2,425,000 Store 6,900,000

2,375,000 Johnson Building... 3,300.000

1,800,000 Herald 2,500,000

3,000,000 Mills Hotel No. 3... 1,235,000

357

Nat. Bank of Com.. $2,500,000
U. S. Realty and

Improvement Co. . 6,000,000

Western Union CO. . . 6,500,000

City Investing Co... 6,625,000

Singer Building 7,000,000

N. Y. Tel. Co 5.060,000

Havemever Bldg. .. 1,875,000

Broadway Bldg. Co. 2,650,000

Woodbridge Building 1,850.000

Washington Bldg 2.000,000

Bowling Green 3,250,000

American Exp. Co.. 3,800,000

Adams Expr. Co 6,500,000

Empire Building 4,100,000

Carroll Building 2.250,000

Standard Oil 3,200,000

Lower Broadwav

Realtv Co 3,300,000

Columbia Trust Co. 3,000,000

Manhattan Life 3,700,000

Stock Exchange 5,200,000

Commercial Cable

Building 2,650,000

Produce Exchange.. 3,750.000

Mills 4,150,000

Morgan Building 5,100,000

Trust Companv of

America 2,325,000

American Mutual In-
surance Co 2,850,000

National City Bank. 5,500,000

Bank of Manhattan. 2,700,000
Mechanics and

Metals Nat. Bank. 2,800,000
United States Exp.

Company 2,700,000

Saks and Company. $3,070,000
Gimble Brothers De-
partment Store . . 6,630,000
Pennsylvania Rail-
road Terminal 14.830.000

Printing Crafts Bldg. 2,700,000
National Cloak and

Suit Company 2,300,000

Knickerbocker Hotel 3,700,000

Long Acre Bldg 2,375,000

Fitzgerald Building. 2,100,000

Claridge Hotel 2,270,000

New York Theatre. 2,550,000

Putman Building... 2,560,000

Astor Hotel 3,875,000

Strand Theatre 2,360,000

The Belnord Realty

Companv 3,500,000

John J. Astor 2,400,000

W. W. Astor 1,090,000

Rogers Peet Co 2,800,000

Hecksher Building.. 2,100,000

The Aeolian Co 2,275,000

Stern Brothers 6,000,000

Harvard Club 1,250,000

Hippodrome 2,250,000

Plaza Hotel 8,100,000

Biltmore Hotel 8,700,000

Belmont Hotel 4,450,000

Manhattan Hotel... 3,750,000

St. Regis Hotel 2,700,000

Gotham Hotel 2,700,000

Oceanic Investing

Company 2,625,000

Postal Life Building 2,275,000

Andrew Carnegie... 2,425,000
Electric Light and

Power Co 5,910,000

A Curious Book About Old New York.
The Recent Revival of "Valentine's Manual.

Although the New Yorker as a rule is apparently not
particularly interested in the history of his city, that is
to a large extent merely his habitual indifference to mat-
ters which he considers personal to himself. As a matter
of fact, New York is the only city in any country which
supports an annual publication devoted solely to the city's
past. Nothing about the present appears in its pages,
everything must have the sanctity of age before it is

358

admissible to its columns. As books go, it is also ex-
pensive — $20.00 per copy, in leather — yet it enjoys
considerable circulation. If any of my readers are of
an enquiring turn of mind and would like to know how
New York used to look, how its old social life was con-
ducted, how it grew up — in short, all the items that would
go to make a biography — let him look between the pages
of Valentine's Manual of Old New York, edited by the
author of this book, Henry Collins Brown.

The history of this unique publication strikes its roots
also deep into the past. It was first published by the
city itself in 1816 — a hundred years ago — as the "City
Hall Directory." In 1840 it was enlarged and changed
its name to the "Manual of the Corporation of the City
of New York." The city discontinued it in 1866 and it
lay dormant for half a century. In 1916 a number of
old New Yorkers revived the ancient publication, giving
it the name of the old editor, Valentine, who conducted
the former series for the city from 1840 to 1866 and
gained much fame thereby.

To those who have enjoyed this little Guide and have
antiquarian tastes, we can with safety suggest the "Man-
ual" as the next addition to their library. Any bookstore
has it.

359

•l llllllll llMMi lllllll i llll l lll l ll i l i l l llllll l l l l l l lM

m. '9.

\'^ , |.^-^~«l-^j ^.,

B o

Ihe Oe Witt I'luiton, first locomotive

INTERESTING DETAILS «
ABOUT THE GREAT CITY

'X^HREE and one-half million people travel every day
-*- in the subways and elevated railways, and over one
and one-half million in the surface cars.

A passenger train arrives every 52 seconds.

There is a wedding every 13 minutes.

Four new business firms start up every 42 minutes.

A new building is erected every 51 minutes.

350 new citizens come to make their homes every day.

4 transient visitors arrive every second.

There were 814,045 telephones in New York on July
31, 1919; more than in Chicago, Boston and Buffalo
combined; more than in all the states south of Mason
and Dixon's line and west of the Mississippi.

The telephone girls are the first to know it when New
York gets nervous. Then the big centrals light up like
Christmas trees.

There are other things that show in the little signal
lights. A shower keeps people off the streets and in-
creases the 'phone traffic by about 100,000 calls, and

361

on the day the Lusitania was sunk the jump, in the
Rector station alone, was from 71,526 to 92,055. A fire
or an explosion may suddenly light almost every lamp
in the nearby centrals, as the whole neighborhood de-
mands information at once.

More than 615,000,000 gallons of water are consumed
daily. It comes from the Catskill Mountains. One of
the deepest shafts of the Catskill Aqueduct is at the cor-
ner of Clinton and South Streets, and another is at the
crossing of Delancey and Eldridge. Each is as deep as
the Woolworth Building is high.

Each year this city adds enough people to make an
Atlanta, a Hartford or a New Haven, and for each addi-
/ed daily. It has been estimated that the increase in pop-
1 ulation from the time the work on the first Catskill aque-
Hional person another hundred gallons of water are need-
duct was begun until its completion was greater than the
entire population of Chicago.

New York's first barber shop for women is open at the
Hotel Majestic.

While New York State gets along on $70,000,000 or
$80,000,000 a year for expenses. New York City requires
$300,000,000. Chicago, $50,000,000; Boston, $30,000,-
000; Philadelphia, $46,000,000.

A child is born every 6 minutes.

30 deeds and 27 mortgages are filed for record every
business hour of the day.

Every 48 minutes a ship leaves the harbor.

Every night $1,250,000 is spent in hotels and restaur-
ants for dining and wining.

An average of 21,000 persons pass daily through the
corridors of the largest hotel. Over 25,000 through the
largest office building.

7,500 people are at work daily for the city in one
building — the Municipal Building.

362

300^000 pass the busiest points along Broadway each
day.

More than 1,000,000 immigrants land every year.

3,750,000 people live in tenements.

105 babies out of every thousand die.

1 00 gallons of water is supplied each individual daily.

Street lighting costs $5,000,000 yearly.

The public parks cover 7,223 acres.

Land reclaimed by filling with street sweepings covers
64 acres.

It takes 1,800 drivers to collect city refuse.

The public schools cost over $87,000,000 annually.

The foreign commerce is nearly one-half of the entire
country.

Three million messages are sent and received by tele-
phone daily.

100 new telephones are added each day.

Subways and elevated traffic increases 100,000,000
yearly.

More people living in its confines than in fourteen of
our States and Territories.

The record for being the greatest purchasing muni-
cipality in the world, not excepting London.

More than one-half the population of the State of
New York.

The majority of the banking power of the United
States, which has two-thirds of the world's banking
power.

An annual population increase of more than 100,000,
besides its own product of births.

1,562 miles of surface, subway and elevated railways,
operating 8,514 passenger coaches, carrying daily 4,849,-
012 passengers on cash fares, and 419,779 on transfers.

A density of population (in Manhattan) of 96,000
per square mile, six times that of any other city in the
United States. Chicago, the next largest city, has 10,-
789 per square mile.

363

Some Simple Don'ts

Don't ask a pedestrian where a certain street is. He
is usually too busy to stop, and if polite enough to stop,
won't know. No New Yorker knows anything about New
York. Consult this Guide.

Don't cross the street in the middle of a block. In
Paris they arrest you for doing that, in New York they
simply run you down. Use the corner crossings only.
Traffic police guard important crossings. "Stop" and
"Go" as they direct.

Don't leave finger rings and personal jewelry on the
wash stands of public dressing rooms while you go out-
side to telephone. It is bad form, especially if you want
to wear the hardware again.

Don't buy the Woolworth Building, Brooklyn Bridge,
the Metropolitan Tower, the City Hall or any prominent
structure because a stranger happens to want to sell it
to you for a few hundred dollars. Buy Thrift Stamps
instead.

The Gold Brick industry is still a flourishing business
in New York.

Don't hand your baggage to a porter outside Grand
Central Terminal unless he wears a red hat. These out-
siders are not allowed to pass the gate and you get stung
for another quarter from the gate to the car. This is a
species of petty imposition which the railroad company
itself ought to suppress, but doesn't.

364

Don't travel with a dog. Bring somebody else's kid
if you can't your own. Children are great company.

Don't take the recommendation of strangers regarding
hotels. Enquire of the Travellers Aid Society, whose
representatives are in the stations.

Don't get too friendly with plausible strangers. Bu-
reaus of information are in every hotel, policemen are on
every street corner, telephone books are handy and there
is little excuse for the deplorable results that sometimes
follow a departure from this advice.

Don't gape at women smoking cigarettes in restaur-
ants. They are harmless and respectable, notwithstand-
ing and nevertheless. They are also "smart".

Don't forget to tip. Tip early and tip often. This
is where they raise the palms for Palm Beach.

Don't block the sidewalk. New Yorkers will gather in
crowds to see a young lady demonstrate a new razor in
a shop window or a safe going up the side of a building.
Ignore such gatherings ; show our ex-hicks that you come
from a real town.

Don't judge the importance of a man by the number of
times he is "paged". That's old stuff!

Don't telephone if you are in a hurry. Walk. It's
quicker, though it used to be the other way 'round.

Don't act, however, as if you were another Daniel in a
Lion's Den, simply because we have pointed out a few
obvious precautions. New York is just like your own
home town, only bigger and the vast majority of its
people are decent, likeable citizens. But there are also
others.

365

End of the City at Inwood Heights.

North from Fort George to Inwood Hill and Spuyten Duyvil Creek
and Northern end of Manhattan Island. Ferry to Inter State Palisade
Park at Dyckman Street. Dyckman House at 212th Street and Haw-
thorne Avenue. Old Kings Bridge spanned the Harlem just beyond the
Elevated. New Isham Park at 215th Street. Go down the road at
extreme end of Inwood Hill to Cold Spring, see Indian Rock House
and great Tulip Tree 6^ feet in diameter, possibly 300 years old, also
place where Hudson landed with part of crew.

We are now at the end of Manhattan Island on which is located the

nIH Ciiv r,f ■Nr*>w Vr,»-lr tir^,„ ^r,^1^A +V, » "Tt^r-r^,,rrU ^f A^a r, Vi o tf -. r, "

GENERAL INFORMATION

Patronize legitimate shops and regular stores,
of well-known^ reliable establishments follows:

A list

STAURANTS

Alps Restaurant, 1022 Sixth Avenue.

Archambault, 2678 Broadway.

Bal-Tabarin, 1646 Broadway.

Browne's Chop House, 1424 Broadway.

Louis Bustonoby, Sixth Avenue and 40th Street.

Cafe Boulevard, Broadway and 41st Street.

Cafe des Beaux Arts, 80 West 40th Street.

Campus Restaurant, 900 Columbus Avenue.

Castle Inn Restaurant, 3360 Broadway.

Childs Restaurants, Throughout City.

Churchill's, Broadway and 49th Street.

Delmonico's, Fifth Avenue and 44th Street.

Drakes Restaurant, 119 West 42nd Street.

Engrel's Chop House, 61 West 36th Street.

Fifth Avenue Restaurant, Fifth Avenue and 23rd Street.

H. Gertner, 1446 Broadway.

Gossler Bros., Inc., 900 Columbus Avenue.

R. M. Haan & Co., 13 Park Row.

Healy's Restaurant, 30 East 42nd Street.

Jack's Restaurant, 761 Sixth Avenue.

Keen's Engrlish Chop House. 107 West 44th Street.

Lafaj'ette Restt^iirant, 9th Street and University Place.

Lorber's Restaurant, 1420 BroadM^ay.

Lusser Restaurant, 149 West 43rd Street.

Mouquin's Restaurant, 454 Sixth Avenue.

Palais Royal, 1590 Broadway.

Pes WofRn^ton Coffee House. 11 East 44th Street.

Rig-ETS Restaurant, 43 West 33rd Street.

Rector's, 160O Broadway.

Rog-ers, 801 Si^th Avenue.

M. Strunsky. 34 West 35th Street.

Wolpin's Restaurant, 1216 Broadway.

Haberdashers

Samuel Budd, 572 Fifth Avenue.

John David, Broadway and 32nd Street.

Herald Men's Shop, 1217 Broadway.

Emanuel Kalish, 1243 Broadway.

Kaskel & Kaskel, 535 Fifth Avenue.

Nat Lewis, 1578 Broadway.

Rollins. 1296 Broadway.

Wallach Bros., Broadway and 29th Street, and Branches.

Weber & Heilbroner, 1505 Broadway and Branches.

General Outfitters

Brill Bros., 44 East 14th Street, and Branches.

Brokaw Bros., 1457 Broadway.

Brooks Bros., 346 Madison Avenue.

Browning King & Co., 1265 Broadway.

Monroe Clothes Shops, 50 East 42nd Street, and Branches.

Park Taylor, Inc., 1333 Broadway, and Branches.

Rogers Peet Company, 842 Broadway, and Branches.

Department Stores

B. Altman & Co., Fifth Avenue and 34th Street.
Bloomingdale Bros., Third Avenue and 59th Street.
Gimbel Bros., Broadway and 33rd Street.
James A. Hearn & Son, 20 West 14th Street.
H. C. F. Koch & Co., 132 West 125th Street.
Jas. McCreery & Co., 5 West 34th Street.
R. H. Macy & Co., Broadway and 34th Street.
Rothenberg & Co., 34 West 14th Street.
Saks & Co., Broadway and 33rd Street.
John Wanamaker, Broadway and 10th Street.

Jewelers

Black, Starr & PYost, Fifth Avenue and 48th Street.

Robert S. Chapin, 634 Fifth Avenue.

Darcy & Hayes, 366 Fifth Avenue.

Dreicer & Co., 560 Fifth Avenue.

Frederics, 547 Fifth Avenue.

B. M. Gattle & Co., 630 Fifth Avenue.

Hallmark Jewellers, 469 Fifth Avenue.

Theodore A. Kohn & Sons, 321 Fifth Avenue.

Marcus & Co., 544 Fifth Avenue.

Reilly & Cheshire, 512 Fifth Avenue.

368

Principal Theatres and Amusement Places

Audubon — Broadway & 165th St.

Academy of Music — E. 14th St. & Irving PI.

A I ham bra— 7th Ave., 126th St.

American — Eighth Ave., 42nd St.

Astor — Broadway and 45th St.

Adman Hall— 29 W. 42nd.

Belasco — 44th St., near Broadway.

Berkeley Lyceum— 19 W. 44th St.

Booth— 22 W. 45th.

Broadway — Broadway, 41st St.

Carnegie Lyceum — 57th St. & 7th Ave.

Carnegie Music Hall— 57th St. & 7th Ave.

Casino — Broadway, 39th St.

Century — Eighth Ave. and 52d St.

Circle^ — Broadway and 60th St.

Cohan's — Broadway, 43d St.

Collier's— 41st St., east of Broadway.

Colonial— Broadway and 62d St.

Comedy — 41st St. bet. Broadway and 6th Ave.

Cort— 48th St., east of Broadway.

Criterion — Broadway, 44th St.

Daly's— Broadwav, 30th St.

Eltlnge— 236 West 42d St.

Empire — Broadway, near 40th St.

Fifth Avenue — Broadway, near 2Sth St.

Forty-eighth St. — 48th St., east of Broadway.

Forty. fourth St.— 216 W. 44th St.

Fulton — W. 46th St., near Broadway.

Gaiety— 46th St. and Broadway.

Garden — Madison Ave., 27th St.

Garrick — 35th St., near 6th Ave.

Globe— Broadway, 46th St.

Grand Central Palace — Lexington Ave., 46th St.

Grand Opera House— 23d St., 8th Ave.

Hackett— West 42d St.

Harris— West 42d St.

Herald Square — Broadway, 35th St.

Hippodrome — Sixth Ave. and 43d St.

Hudson— W. 44th St.

Irving Place — Irving Place.

Keith's— 14th St., near Broadway.

Knickerbocker — Broadway, at 3Sth St.

Lenox Lyceum — E. 59th St.

Lexington Opera House — Lexington Ave., 58th St.

Liberty— West 42d St.

Lincoln Square — 1947 Broadway.

Little — 44th St., west of Broadway.

Longacre — 4Sth St., west of Broadway.

Lyceum — 45th St., near Broadway

Lyric — 43d St., near 7th Ave.

Madison Square Garden — Madison Ave., 26th St.

Majestic — 59th St. and Broadway.

Manhattan— West 34th St.

Maxine Elliott's — 39th St., near Broadway.

Metropolis— E. 142d St. and Third Ave.

Metropolitan Opera House — Broadway, 40th St.

369

Murray Hill— Lexington Ave., 42d St.

New Amsterdam — 42nd, 7th Ave,

New York— Broadway, 44th St.

Palace — Broadway, 47th St.

Punch and Judy— 44th St., east of 7th Ave.

Playhouse— 48th St., east of Broadway.

Princess — 29th St. and Broadway.

Proctor's— (1) 23d St. (2) 58th St. (3) Broadway

and 28th St. (4) E. 125th St.
Rialto— 42nd and 7th Ave.
R I vo 11— Broadway and 49th St.
Savoy — 34th St. and Broadway.
Schubert— 225 W. 44th St.
Strand— Broadway and 48th St.
Stuyvesant— West 44th St.

Thirty-ninth Street— 39th St., near Broadway.
Victoria— Broadway and 42d St
Vitagraph— Broadway and 43d St.
Wallick's— Broadway, 30th St.
Weber's— Broadway, 29th St.
West End— 12.5th St., Sth Ave.
Winter Garden— 50th St. and Broadway.

Moving- Picture Shows are scattered throughout
the city in every section, and range in price from
5 cents to 25 cents, though special attractions are
as high as $2.00.

370

The Man Who Entertains You in New York — -

John McE. Bowman^ Who Runs Six of the Big

New York Hotels.

Elsewhere in these pages we have made reference to
the fact that the great hotels of New York are themselves
an object of keen interest to the tourist. Here gather
prominent men and women from all parts of civilization.
It is a kaleidoscopic view of the world at large; the
movement, life and gaiety of things, form a never-ending
source of attraction.

The modern hotel of the first class is so vastly su-
perior to anything even dreamed of in the past that no
comparison can be made. The famous Pershing Square
group is perhaps the most conspicuous example of the
new school in public entertaining and is so readily ac-
cepted as the highest type of the new era that a sketch
of the young man resiDonsible for this wonderful de-
velopment is of more than passing interest. We no
longer speak of the head of such a vast enterprise as
a hotel man. He is the executive of a huge business
organization, employing millions of capital and with a
working force exceeding ten thousand persons. The
office requires ability of so many different kinds as to
make its holder distinguished even among the many
Captains of Industry and Finance in a great city like
New York.

One of the main differences between the old and the
new type of big hotel executive is that the modern host
lias practically ceased to be a host at all.

Unlike the late George C. Boldt, whose personality
was the corner stone of the Waldorf-Astoria, and who
^vas a familiar figure in the lobby, John McE. Bowman
takes extreme measures to avoid the public rooms of any
of his hotels. Bowman operates six great New York
hotels — the Biltmore, the Commodore, the Manhattan,

.■^71

the Belmont^ the Murray Hill, and the Ansonia. He
also controls two great resort hotels, the Belleview, at
Belleair, Florida, and the Griswold, at New London, Con-
necticut, and the Westchester-Biltmore Country Club
at Rye, N. Y. His recent jDurchase of the Sevilla, at
Havana, is his first excursion into foreign fields but Is
not likely to be his last. Though only forty-three years
old, his is probably the most responsible hotel job in
the world.

You might stay at the Hotel Biltmore in New York
for a year without ever catching a glimpse of Bowman.
Rarely does he ever set foot in the lobby. If he wishes
to go from his office, on a balcony floor of the hotel, to
a room opposite, he is likely to take an elevator to the
basement, and then come up again on the other side, like
a prairie dog.

Indeed you might have difficulty in seeing Bowman
even if you went to his office; for he finds that, with six
New York hotels to manage, it is essential to practice
rigid conservation of his time, and frequently he is in-
accessible except by appointment.

This is not because Bowman doesn't enjoy meeting
people — for at heart he is a rollicking, sociable boy —
but because he believes that he can make the seven
thousand guests in his hotels more comfortable by devot-
ing his energies to work of a purely executive sort.
Bowman knows by experience that a journey of only
one hundred feet through the Biltmore lobby requires
at least half an hour ! Somebody among the guests recog-
nizes him as the manager and stops him to ask a question.
By the time he has finished with that guest, another one
is waiting for him with other questions or requests. And
all the while Bowman has something in his own mind
that he is extremely anxious to dispose of.

Consequently, because he is in a hurry to be on his
way, he is not at the moment quite the ideal person to

extend hospitality and to pat on the back the guest
within his doors. Moreover, the interruption interferes
with his train of thought and makes him less competent
for the moment to handle the executive task on which
he has set out.

Bowman, therefore, delegates the genial host function
to assistant managers, whom he pays well for being cour-
teous talkers, good hand-shakers, and discreet arbiters
of guests' minor difficulties.

"They handle the guests far better than I can," ex-
plains Bowman, "for they have nothing else on their
minds. In order to have plenty of patience and poise
in liandling the public, a man should be free from finan-
cial and organization worries. For that reason, I aim
to see to it that our assistant managers, who have most
of the actual handling of the public, do not have to
concern themselves about anything else."

There you have the theory on which the directing
head of this biggest hotel enterprise remains personally
an invisible force in the background.

Because he is not often seen about the premises,
a guest might receive the impression that Bowman is not
on the job. And that brings us to another Bowman
theory — that he can, in a sense, be on the job more by
being on it less.

That sounds paradoxical, but here is the idea: He
believes in a short, intensive day for an executive, rather
than a long, dilly-dallying day. Sometimes Bowman
works six or seven hours and then dashes up to his farm
in Westchester County until the next morning. And he
believes he accomplishes vastly more by this system
than if he were at his desk, with precision and regularity,
the same number of hours each day.

He gets a tremendous amount of work done, because,
by virtue of his frequent hours of recreation, he comes

Z7Z

to his work fresh, full of enthusiasm and physical en-
ergy. He eats and sleeps when he feels most like it,
and he works somewhat the same way. That is, when
he feels particularly energetic he may work without
cessation from early morn until late at night, without
even going out for a meal. But he doesn't plan to do
that every day, for he does not regard his job as an
endurance test.

Moreover, Bowman finds that much of the really im-
portant work of an executive can be done better away
from one's office than in it. He can think out a problem
better, oftentimes, while chopping down a tree at his
farm than while seated at his desk.

Bowman, of course, has a lot of energy and initiative
and a knack at making capital of previous experience,
else his career would not be such a record of proceeding,
mainly upward. Only a comparatively few years ago
he was connected with Durland's Riding Academy. His
love for horses still clings to him, and with Mr. Vander-
bilt he now runs the Annual Horse Show in New York,
but the story of his being a truck man is unfortunately
not true. It made a picturesque background.

Bowman's first hotel job was at a little resort in the
Adirondacks, when he was only nineteen years old. Be-
cause of the short season there, he desired a permanent
place at some good hotel in New York City. A wealthy
man gave him a letter of introduction to the manager
of what was then one of the best hotels in New York,
a place that Bowman had thought a suitable field for his
talents after seeing a picture of it in a little booklet.

With this letter of introduction in his pocket, and the
assurance of his acquaintance that it would indubitably
land him some kind of position in the big hotel. Bowman
burned his bridges behind him and came to New York
to make his fortune. He mailed the letter of introduc-
tion to the hotel manager, and requested permission to

374

call. But he got no response. He wrote again and
asked for the return of his letter of introduction. Even
then he got no reply, and he formed a strong opinion
about the character of the man who had exhibited what
seemed to him such gross and needless discourtesy.

Years later Bowman became president and directing
manager of the company that took over that same hotel,
and his first official act was to discharge the manager
who had failed to answer his letter. He did not dis-
charge him to" vent personal spleen, but because he
thought the man lacked that sense of courtesy and con-
sideration which should be among the qualifications of a
successful manager.

Having failed to get the hotel job he sought in New
York, Bowman had to do whatever work he could find.
Frequently he was obliged to be so economical that each
meal was a genuine problem. He found that the food in
the cheaper uptown restaurants was of such a light,
frivolous nature that it failed to stick to his ribs. Con-
sequently, it was not unusual for him to walk from up-
town New York clear down to the lower end of the
Bowery in order to find food that was both substantial
and cheap. He has distinct recollections of the satis-
fying qualities of the beef stew that was available at one
place for the sum of ten cents. To-day Bowman is mak-
ing capital of the knowledge he gained as to food values
in those difficult days.

Incidentally, right in this connection. Bowman thinks
that there might be less complaint over the high cost of
food if people made the same effort that he made, to
locate good food at reasonable prices.

"The truth is that, with a proper system of distribu-
tion, high prices in hotels really ought to make for
cheaper prices in the less pretentious places. I have in
mind particularly the item of meats. The more the
dealer can get for the choicest cuts of meat, the more

375

cheaplj^ he should be able to sell what is left. Hence
high prices in hotels for the choicest cuts of meat should
have a tendency to reduce the cost to the consumer of
the slightly less desirable cuts, in the cheaper restau-
rants. However, in practice it does not always work
out in just that way.'*

After he had knocked about New York in various
jobs, Bowman was more convinced than ever that hotel
work was the only line in which he could permanently
be satisfied. He determined that he would work not
only in a hotel, but in one particular hotel, which he had
selected as a desirable place to learn the business on a
high-grade basis.

The hotel he had in mind was the Holland House,
famous for its cuisine and for being the first modern
hotel in the United States to adopt the European plan
of serving only a la carte meals. Bowman did succeed in
making the acquaintance of the proprietor of this estab-
lishment, one Gustav Baumann, and agreed to be a bright
young willing worker if Baumann would employ him.
Later on, he became Baumann's secretary. Baumann
headed a company that put up the Hotel Biltmore and
Bowman was to be its manager. A few months after
the hotel was ready for occupancy, Baumann died. In
a short time Bowman had so thoroughly convinced the
board of directors of his ability, that he not only was
permanently retained as manager but was made president
of the company.

Then he branched out, and he has now bought four
other hotels, besides building the new Hotel Commodore.
Thus, Bowman, who only a few years ago came to New
York to hunt a job, finds himself at the topmost place
among hotel operators. He must satisfy the daily wants
and whims not only of seven thousand guests but also of
seven thousand employees — for in a big modern hotel
there is, on the average, an employee for every guest.

376

OUR SISTER BOROUGHS

The Boroughs of Brooklyn, Bronx^ Queens
AND Richmond

T^HIS is the second Borough in importance of the
Boroughs that make up Greater New York, and is
said now to slightly exceed Manhattan in the actual
number of residents. It has certainly grown tremen-
dously in the last year or two and has a larger physical
area. It is essentially a city of homes. Most of its
people have business in New York. It is connected by
four bridges and three subway tunnels, to which more
will soon be added.

Greenwood Cemetery in Brooklyn was at one time a
great mecca of tourists to New York. So much so, that
Brooklyn was at one time described as "lying between
Pleasure and the Grave." It is, nevertheless, one of the
most beautiful Cities of the Dead in the world. Public
taste has changed of late years and Greenwood has to a
certain extent lost its attraction to visitors. Yet one will
never regret an hour or two spent in this God's Acre.
Many noted men and women are buried here, and the
beauty of its monuments, its shaded paths, its atmosphere
of profound peace, yields a restful sensation that is long
remembered. If time permits, pay a visit to this old

hallowed spot. It is something you will never regret.
Brooklyn is as different from New York as day is from
night. It thinks differently, lives differently, acts differ-
ently. Marshall Wilder became rich through his famous
bon-mot : that the subways were built so that a New York
man could go to Brooklyn without being seen. It is a
city of churches, as well as of homes, and has a strong
religious life. It cannot seem to outgrow its village
origin. It has, however, a rare intellectual life.

People from abroad and our own people from other
states speak of Brooklyn as a beautiful city. It often
perplexes the Brooklynite to know what this terra
means. Evidently it is not meant in the sense that a
statue is beautiful or even a building, for there are only
a few conspicuously fine statutes or buildings in the bor-
ough. And yet it is evident to any one who has been
in Brooklyn even for a short time that the description
is true. There is something in the atmosphere that
induces the kindly feeling, and perhaps this again is
produced by the long streets and avenues of homes, for
Brooklyn is preeminently the city of homes. Already
the population numbers over two millions and the influx
of people is growing greater with every new bridge or
tunnel that is built. Happily there is an immense area
yet to be filled up, land that is admirably suited for the
building of homes and all within easy reach of business
centers in Manhattan.

Of the five boroughs of Greater New York, Brooklyn
has distinctively the flavor of Art and Letters. The
trend of the population is easily discerned in the large
audiences that attend the lectures given almost every
night during eight months of the year at the Brooklyn
Institute and elsewhere. A Brooklyn audience, as has
often been remarked, is discriminating and exacting.
Perhaps no teacher or lecturer embodies the Brooklyn
idea more distinctly than our late minister to Holland,

378

Henry Van Dyke, himself a Brooklyn man and a fine
scholar. His unafFected manner, his extensive knowl-
edge of literature and his mastery of the arts and subtle-
ties of humor, represent in actual life the ideals of the
Brooklyn mind.

On the other hand, the utilitarian side has its votaries,
as is shown in the crowded halls of the various institu-
tions offering technical instruction, with also such ad-
vantages for social recreation as have always character-
ized tiiis city. Even without the attractions of splendid
theatres and great amusement places, Brooklj'^n contrives
to get along in these matters perhaps even better than
Tier sister borough of Manhattan. As for the drama,
Brooklyn has several dramatic societies which, although
entirely composed of amateurs, rival some of New York's
best companies and surely furnish amusement and recre-
ation far excelling them. These societies have produced
some of the best talent in the histronic art. Ada Rehan,
who lived in Brooklyn with her mother a great part of
her life, was wont to say of them that they were the
nurseries of New York's dramatic talent. Music also has
its votaries, and the many societies for the cultivation
of this art contribute greatly to the pleasure of living
in Brooklyn. An orchestra composed entirely of women
and led by a woman gives three concerts every year
-during the season, and its performances can scarcely
he rivalled anywhere. As an art center Brooklyn has
achieved distinction and contributed her full share of
glory to the country. There are a number of art schools
and art clubs in Brooklyn. In one of these clubs, the
Two Hour Sketch Club, made up partly of earnest young
artists and partly of ambitious amateurs, one of Amer-
ica's most virile and famous artists. Frederic Remington,
was a member during a part of his student days. He
is remembered today by those of his associates who re-
Tuain for his strong, daring and progressive methods,

380

and loved for his warm, generous and manly spirit.

The Brooklyn Institute of Arts and Sciences is to be
credited with much of the impetus that is given to the
intellectual life of the city and it undoubtedly supplies
also that higher order of amusement which takes the
place here of the mammoth movie palaces of other large
cities. The Museum is on a par with the finest in New
York and the building, which is beautifully situated in
Institute Park, on Eastern Parkway, one of Brooklyn's
finest boulevards, will vie in size and beauty with any
that has been erected for this purpose anywhere. The
famous collection of paintings by Tissot, depicting the
life of Christ, and the water color paintings by Sargent
are alone well worth a visit, but there are many other
collections of rare and valuable objects to be seen.

Not far from the Museum is the plaza, on which stands
the magnificent arch, crowned with the work of Amer-
ica's greatest sculptor, MacMonnies, and here also is
Park Slope, a residential section containing many of the
finest homes in Brooklyn. Directly through Prospect
Park from the plaza is the fair and enticing suburb of
Flatbush, which has been frequently spoken of as the
most beautiful suburb of any in the United States, ex-
celling the famous suburbs of old Boston. Perhaps the
only thing to criticise is its newness, many of the fine
old Dutch houses having disappeared. The America
of today, with its merchant princes and its palatial
homes, is quite in evidence here, but not, however, to
the exclusion of the more modest cottages and dwelliftgs
of that class which has made Brooklyn the city of homes.
A walk along Ocean Avenue is a delight and may be
continued all the way to the ocean. One ©f the old
landmarks of Flatbush which still remains and is cher-
ished is the old Erasmus Hall, a school of "ye olden
time." It is enclosed now by the great buildings of
the Erasmus Hall High School, a seat of learning which

381

ranks perhaps first among New York's public schools.
The great, massive tower on the principal building makes
one think of the old college towns of Europe. Oppo-
site Erasmus is the Dutch Reformed Church, the oldest
on Long Island.

Brooklyn is well provided with colleges and schools —
Adelphi College is an old Brooklyn institution, and
Brooklyn College, the center of Catholic instruction for
the city, is the most recent. Pratt Institute and the
Arbuckle Institute are mainly for instruction in tech-
nical subjects and have a very large attendance of both
sexes. The Polytechnic is for young men and is a pre-
paratory school. There are several other seminaries,
academies and private schools. On the grounds of the
Arbuckle Institution is a fine statute of Henry Ward
Beecher as he appeared on the platform.

To the query, where is Brooklyn's business district,
the answer might well be given there is not any, for
there is no stock exchange, no financial district, no curb
market, no produce, no cotton, or wool exchange, no
newspaper row and no great railway centers. There is,
however, a fine shopping district with several establish-
ments rivalling the best in Manhattan. From Flatbush
Avenue to the Borough Hall on Fulton Street there is
8 succession of fine department stores, and the sidewalks
in the neighborhood are crowded from morn till night
with a continuous stream of Brooklyn's fair daughters,
giving a few moments of their precious time to the prac-
tical affairs of life.

Further on beyond the Borough Buildings is the old
and aristocratic section, which still retains its old time
air of exclusiveness, though fast undergoing great
changes. Columbia Heights, at all times regarded the
ideal residence quarter, is a bluff rising high above the
sea level and overlooking the river and the bay. No
finer site could be imagined for a residence and the

382

n^ti(;

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