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MR. ARCHIBALD FORDER IN EUROPEAN AND ARAB COSTUME

'VENTURES
AMONG THE ARABS

IN DESERT, TENT, AND TOWN

THIRTEEN YEARS OF PIONEER MISSIONARY LIFE

WITH THE ISHMAELITES OF MOAB, EDOM

AND ARABIA

BY
ARCHIBALD FORDER

LATE OF KERAK, MOAB

NEW YORK

GOSPEL PUBLISHING HOUSE
54 WEST 22D STREET

1909

O v

BY GOSPEL PUBLISHING HOUSE

Printing by

FRANCIS E. HTCH

New York

TO A MUCH LOVED AND HONORED

JFatfjer anti jHotijer

WHO WILLINGLY CONSENTED TO THEIR SON

GIVING HIS LIFE TO THE ARABS, AND FOR MANY

YEARS PRAYED DAILY FOR THE SUCCESS

OF HIS WORK, THIS BOOK IS

Of the world's pages, one is yet unread;
One land still waits the pioneer's tread;
'Tis Arabia, home of steed and palm,
With millions needing yet the Gospel's healing
balm,

Dim longings draw me on, and point my path,
To Eastern sands, to Kedar's mystic land,
The cradle of Islam.

PREFACE

THE object of this book is not to gratify a
love for sensational adventure, but to show
how a life wholly given up to God's service
can be used and spared under circumstances
varied and often seemingly hopeless, and in
the hope that many may be led to venture
something on behalf of that great peninsula of
Arabia of which it tells. It shows that the
ventures of the pioneer missionary are full of
adventures, trying, exciting, and interesting,
and should dispel the illusion that his life is
all honey and that in far-away lands he gen-
erally has a good time.

No attempt is made at literary perfection, or
at a detailed geographical, historical, or other
description of Arabia. My story is a simple
record of ventures just as they occurred, a tran-
script of personal experiences and beliefs. It
is sent forth to what I believe is a sympathetic

Vi PREFACE

public, and if through the perusal of its pages
any one is led to a fuller and deeper consecra-
tion in the work of evangelizing the nations of
the world, my time, labor, and thought will have
been well expended.

A. FORDER.

BOSTON, MASS,

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PACK

I. A Rough Reception I

II. Getting into Moab 6

III. Who was Captured 16

IV. " Who are the Bedouin " 24

V. New Experiences under Difficulties . . -31

VI. Through Trials Enemies become Friends . . 44

VII. Trying Times in Trying Places .... 52

VIII. Encouragement from Unexpected Quarters . . 65

IX. In Competition with Native Doctors ... 76

X. At the Mercy of Murderers, Brigands, and Raging

Seas 86

XI. Unlooked-for Changes and More Persecutions . 106

XII. Into New Regions, among Superstitious Zealots . 120

XIII. Arabia the Desert of the Sea . . . .130

XIV. Attempts to enter Arabia end in Capture, Prison,

and Broken Bones 141

XV. A Fourth Venture brings me to the Desert's

Edge 151

XVI. Between Druze and Arab I get into the Desert . 167

XVII. A Kind Chief but Unkind Subjects . . . 180

XVIII. Ten Days on the Desert 198

XIX. The Chiefs Plan to capture me for Islam . . 206

XX . A Calamity that nearly cost me my Life . . 224

Vlll

CONTENTS

XXI. Exciting Times in Desert and Town

XXII. The Religion of the Arabs .

XXIII. Customs substantiating Scripture

XXIV, Arabia in its Relation to the Bible
XXV. A Look Ahead

PACK
234
247
258
280
29O

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

An Arab Sheik 30

Arab Encampment 12

A Bedouin Tent 75

Archibald Forder in European and Arab Costume . . Title

An Arab Fiddler 277

Arabs of Moab, Dwellers in Tents 24

Arabs of Northern Arabia 212

Aaron's Tomb in Edom 128

Bird's-Eye View of Damascus 289

Bedouin Women, Daughters of the Desert 95

Castle of the Jowf 224

Coffee Maker, The 119

Caravan resting after a Journey 179

Calvary, Outside the Wall 152

Crossing the Desert 205

Christian Woman of Moab 150

Drawing Water at Beersheba 125

Druze Chiefs 166

Enjoying a Social Meal 102

Eastern Caravansary, An 119

Fords of Arnon, The 75

Forder, Mrs., the Wife of the Author 106

Gathering Salt in the Desert 224

Getting ready to move House 166

Hagar's Well in the Desert of Beersheba 125

x LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PACK

Interior of an Arab House 9

Mr. Forder's Home in Moab 52

Marid, the Stronghold of the Jowf 205

Map of Arabia 292

Mrs. Khykhan, the Chief's Wife 189

Mr. Forder when sitting with the Arabs 85

North Shores of the Dead Sea 102

Old Tower and Castle at Sulkhu 152

Ovens used by the Arabs 43

Palm with Fruit Ripe unto Harvest 233

Pharaoh's Treasury, the Masterpiece of Edom .... 286

Stone Doors, Bashan 160

Section of the Sik (Ravine) , Arabia Petrea 132

Temporary Hospital in the Desert, A 189

The Chief of Kaf 179

View on the River Jordan 9

View on the River Abana 257

Water Skins filled, ready for a Journey 197

Woman with Money on Head 64

Women grinding at the Mill 277

Woman churning Butter 242

INTRODUCTION

[Bv SPECIAL PERMISSION FROM " WITH THE ARABS IN TENT AND TOWN."]

CONSULATE OF THE UNITED STATES
OF AMERICA

To whom it may concern:

DEAR SIR OR MADAME, —

This letter introduces Mr. Archibald Forder,
who is well known to me. He is a tireless,
faithful, devoted Christian worker. He is fear-
less, and has labored with indefatigable zeal.
He enjoys pioneer and missionary work better
than any other man I have ever seen. Only
last year (1900) he went alone into the heart
of Arabia, and nearly perished because the
hardships were so great. He is a regular
Livingstone, and if there were still any " un-
known continent," Mr. Forder would be the
man to open it up to Christianity. In con-
nection with some established Society, or under

Xll ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

the direction of some judicious Board of Trus-
tees, I am sure that Mr. Forder would do
most excellent work. His character is above
reproach, and in this country he is respected
by all who know him.

I remain, yours respectfully,

(HoN.) SELAH MERRILL, LL.D.
U. S. Consul, Jerusalem.

SEPTEMBER 23, 1901.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

For the twin photographs reproduced as
frontispiece, we are indebted to J. C. Varney,
Haverhill, Mass., and for the photograph facing
page 85, thanks are due to Van B. Wheaton,
Amsterdam, N.Y.

'VENTURES AMONG THE ARABS
CHAPTER I

A ROUGH RECEPTION

IT was fast growing dark, and we were
eagerly anticipating the end of our long
and fatiguing journey. Four days we had been
on the way from Jerusalem, and one more night
should bring us to our new home among the
thousands of Ishmaelites, in Kerak, the old
Moabitish capital, on the highlands and in the
mountains of that little-known region.

The leader of our little caravan ordered the
loads to be put on the camels and mules for
this final stage of the journey. With fear and
trembling our faithful men adjusted them, then
grasping their heavy sticks and slinging their
flintlock guns over their backs, with a " Bis-
mallah" — "In the name of God" — led off,
hoping that before daybreak we would be
housed in the old city, only twenty-five or
thirty miles ahead.

We mounted our animals and brought up
the rear. In the twilight we could see the
caravan ahead of us urged on by our men, but

2 A ROUGH RECEPTION

no sound was uttered. For we were now in
the land of Moab, among a people noted for
their lawlessness, dwellers in houses of hair,
keepers of flocks and herds, whose hand was
against every man, and every, man's hand
against them — a people who looked with sus-
picion upon any one who dared to enter their
country uninvited, and who were ready at a
moment's notice to attack, rob, and even kill,
so that the purses and purposes of the chiefs
and their many attendants might be filled and
upheld ; and after plunder and even murder
return to their camps, pull down and fold up
their tents, and migrate to some region inacces-
sible to any who might purpose revenge for any
such treatment as just described.

Was it any wonder that our good Arab at-
tendants kept quiet lest they should bring down
on us some of the bloodthirsty, greedy children
of Ishmael ? But in spite of quiet and care we
were not to be allowed to pass unmolested or
to reach our mountain home without inter-
ruption.

It was about seven in the evening, and quite
dark, when suddenly, without any warning, we
were surrounded by a large number of fierce
fellows armed with rifles, spears, daggers, and
revolvers. They appeared to come from be-

A ROUGH RECEPTION 3

neath, so quickly were they upon us. Their
mode of operation was well planned and carried
out. First they separated us, then some drove
off the loaded animals that in the stampede and
surprise had been deserted by their drivers.
Others of these unexpected arrivals took as a
prisoner one of our little company, and in a
few minutes after the attack no one knew where
the other was.

Who were the newcomers ? some will be
asking. They were a company of Arabs be-
longing to the ruling family of Moab, and
known as the Mujellies. They were famous and
feared, because of their ferocity and daring.
Somehow they had learned of our coming and
had been lying in wait for us, prepared to give
us not only a surprise, but a rough and dis-
couraging reception to their country. It was
neither the place or time for talking, so each
one, still riding, was led off in charge of three
or four of these unwelcome fellows.

I heard my wife calling for me, her voice
came from somewhere on my right, so without
any notice to my captors I slipped off my horse,
and before they realized what had occurred I
was running in the direction from whence the
sound of my wife's voice had come. Stumbling
over stones and bushes in the darkness, I at

4 A ROUGH RECEPTION

last came upon a little group. In the midst
was my wife, still seated upon her mule. Around
her were some six or eight men, some on horses,
others on foot. They were trying to make her
understand that they wanted any valuables that
she might have.

Fierce and lawless as they were, their
social custom kept them from laying hands
on a woman, much as they might covet and
wish to have any valuables that she might pos-
sess. I had already been overhauled, with a
very poor result, however, for I had nothing
worth taking, having anticipated some such
experience as this. I had stoutly resisted the
first man who started to make the acquaintance
of my pockets and saddle-bags. Thinking to
frighten me into submission, he drew out a long
curved dagger and held it in a threatening way
over me, but I put up my arm and knocked
it out of his hands, and he thought it wise to
desist from interfering with me.

Pushing between the horses and men that
surrounded my wife, I, by signs and shouting,
protested against their actions. At that time
I only knew a few words of Arabic. They
were joined, a few minutes later, by my captors,
who had followed me after I had given them
the slip. Together we all moved off, I walking

A ROUGH RECEPTION 5

by the side of my wife's mule and doing my best
to encourage and cheer her. Many times our
captors urged me to ride, but to no purpose.

All this time we knew nothing about our
companions who were able to speak the lan-
guage, or anything about the loads or our faith-
ful attendants. For about an hour we went on
in the dark. Often I stumbled over stones, or
put my foot into some hole in the dry, parched
ground, but I held on to the bridle of the mule,
and in spite of sore feet and bleeding legs,
pricked by stout thorns or nettles, at last saw
in the distance the lights of camp-fires, and
knew that the homes of our captors were near,
and for a time, at least, this part of our journey
was about at an end. Furious dog* rushed
hither and thither, announcing out coming
with their shrill, harsh barking.

A few minutes later we halted beforo one of
the tents in a large encampment and vere in-
vited to enter, which we did, conscious of the
fact that we were the prisoners of the Be louin,
and our temporary prison a house of hail

GETTING INTO MOAB

THE previous chapter left my companions
and myself captives in a house of hair on
the wide plains of Moab. Let me now relate
how I reached the place and circumstances
already told.

My wife and self left England on Thursday,
September 3, 1891. We were sent off with
many good wishes and the blessings and ear-
nest prayers of our parents and friends. In due
time we reached Jaffa, the port of Southern
Palestine, and were welcomed there by Mr. and
Mrs. Lethaby, whose place we had come to take
for a time. Here I had my first Arabic lesson
— one that was short, comparatively easy, but
very helpful. The agent who undertook for us
in the landing and customs taught me the
equivalent in Arabic for " What is that ? "
Armed with my first two words of that difficult
language, I went ahead and soon learned the
names of many things, until able to converse
with the people.

GETTING INTO MOAB 7

As the way to Moab was through Jerusalem,
we hired carriages to drive to the Holy City
The railroad was not open in those days. After
a weary ride we reached Jerusalem and were
lodged in a comfortable home. On Wednes
day morning, September 30, we started foi
Moab. The old capital, Kerak, — Kir of the
Old Testament, — was our destination, and hail
we then known all that was to befall us, we
would not have set out so light-heartedly.
Our companions, Mr. and Mrs. Lethaby, rode in
rude crates slung across a camel's back. Mrs.
Forder and myself were accommodated in a
similar fashion. We moved along like snails,
and after having ridden until we were all stiff
and tired, our camel man at last yielded to our
pleadings and persuasions, and consented to
stop and rest awhile. In ten minutes we
started again. O dear! that day's journey to
Jericho is still in my mind ; the jolting and
rocking on that camel's back, under the scorch-
ing sun, was almost unbearable. To add to
our miseries, that stubborn camel would insist
on walking along the very edges of the steep
precipices so common on the Jericho road. If
we touched it on the neck to guide it to the
middle of the road, the beast would stop and
commence to kneel. The calmness of that

8 GETTING INTO MOAB

beast greatly added to our discomforts that first
day out. If it turned back its long neck to
knock a troublesome fly off its hindquarters, we
thought it was after a bite at our legs, that
dangled over the sides of the crates in which
we were seated.

At last we sighted Jericho in the plains
below, and at length reached the village. We
were tired and exhausted, and were grateful for
the shelter and warm water supplied by the
woman in charge of the Russian hospice there.
We tried to sleep, but the heat and innumer-
able occupants of our beds made it impossible.

About two next morning we were up and
again on the move. In the dark our camels
followed their master across the level plain of
Jericho. At daybreak we reached the banks
of the historic river, and our man, throwing
aside his garments, proceeded to ford the Jor-
dan. In turn both camels were led through
the river; two donkeys swam across, closely
following the camels. Our man carried our
packages across on his head, and after many
fordings at length got everything over. It was
an interesting sight in the cool and light of the
early morning. We rested about half an hour,
and had our breakfast off dry bread and Jordan
water, which, if not luxurious, was satisfying.

VIEW ON THE RIVER JORDAN

This view on the river is near the fords over which the Israelites crossed. It is about five
miles from Jericho. The picture was taken from the wooden bridge that spans the river
at that point. Mr. Forder crossed here on his first journey into Moab.

INTERIOR OF AN ARAB HOUSE

This shows the fireplace in the middle of the floor and the mud bins in which grain, salt,
or flour is stored. In the recesses on the left side the family sleep, the floor generally
being occupied by guests. These houses have neither windows nor chimneys.

GETTING INTO MOAB 9

The ride across the plains of the Jordan was
long and tiresome. The heat was terrific, and
the Moab mountains seemed never to come
nearer. But they at last were reached, and the
ascent commenced. Slowly and calmly those
camels went about their difficult task — up and
down places that seemed impossible for any
animal to venture, along the edges of deep
ravines, over rocks with surfaces worn smooth
and slippery by much traffic and exposure to
storms and winds, and at last out on to the
extensive and fertile plains of Moab, at that
season of the year dry and cracked after the
heat of the long summer. We passed close
under the shadow of Mount Nebo, but were
too weary to realize it or give much thought
to the first leader of Israel who died there on
that lonely spur in the mountain range.

Fifteen hours after leaving Jericho we
reached Medeba, a large village on the plain.
How thankful we were for the warm welcome
given us by the chief of the place ! He spread
rugs and comforts on the floor for us, on which
we lay, glad to stretch and rest our weary
limbs. The house was just one large room; on
each side were raised recesses, in which the
family slept or stored their goods. Wide
arches supported the roof, which was made

10 GETTING INTO MOAB

of a thick layer of mud and earth held up by
beams of wood.

In usual Arab style supper was prepared
and served. Two baked fowls, boiled rice, and
warm bread made a very decent meal. We
ate our fill ; what remained was given to those
who flocked in to gaze at us. Coffee followed,
served in small cups ; a tablespoonful was all
we got, and for us it sufficed, for it was thick
and strong, and minus milk or sugar. By that
time a lot of men had crowded the house and
had seated themselves around the fire, which
was in a hollow in the middle of the floor.
Midst their noisy jabber and the smoke of the
fire and numerous pipes we fell asleep, and for
a short time were oblivious to our new and
strange surroundings. Awaking soon after, we
were not long in discovering that myriads of
minute bloodsuckers had attacked us, evidently
with the intention of drawing all they could
from the newcomers. We learned to our dis-
may that Medeba was the residence of the king
and queen of the flea community, and that
they never delayed investigating any one who
tarried for a time in their domains. A few
snatches of sleep refreshed us and helped to
pass away that lively night.

I ought to have said that our heavy baggage

GETTING INTO MOAB II

left Jerusalem on five mules about two hours
before us the day we started ; these we over-
took at Medeba. We did not expect to set out
again for a day or two, but about ten o'clock
Friday morning they said they were going on.
Our camels had gone back to Jerusalem, so
we commenced the second stage of our journey
on horses and mules. The next two days' ride
meant danger and delay unless we were fortu-
nate enough to get along unseen.

Late in the afternoon we entered the enemy's
territory and kept moving on until quite dark.
About forty men and animals now formed our
caravan, many having decided to travel with
us, because in numbers there was safety.
Without a sound from each other we traversed
those plains in the dark. Suddenly we were
surrounded by ten or twelve men of the Ham-
eideh tribe, through whose country we were
travelling without consent. In the starlight
they looked awful fellows, armed with rifles,
revolvers, and swords, and spears about twelve
feet long. After much shouting and talk,
which to us was unintelligible, they separated
us, and drove off all the loaded animals, after
which they left us to come together again and
proceed on our way, not knowing what had
gone with our baggage.

12 GETTING INTO MOAB

After about two hours we reached an en-
campment of houses of hair, where we passed
the remainder of the night. Before morning
all the loaded animals were driven in, having
been regained by our faithful muleteers. By
daybreak we were again on the move, hoping
that before night we should be safely housed
in Kerak. Soon we descended into the grand
but deep gorge of Mojeb. We crossed the
river Arnon, which flows through the bed of
the valley, and were delighted with the abun-
dance of- white and pink oleanders that grew
on its banks. We reached the Kerak side of
that magnificent gorge about ten in the morn-
ing ; here we decided to stay till sunset, for we
had now reached the territory of the robber
chiefs of Moab, known as the Mujellies.

Our men knew that if we fell into the hands
of these dreaded chiefs, they would show us
no mercy. We found shade and shelter under
a large rock, so placed that even passers-by
could not see us unless we wilfully exposed
ourselves. We had not been in hiding long
when we heard a noisy wrangle going on
among our men. Mrs. Lethaby crept out
and caught sight of the long spear of a sheikh,
or chief. He had come upon our men and
said that some of them had robbed one of his

GETTING INTO MOAB 13

tribe of a gun, and he must have something in
return for it. After a stormy quarrel he drove
away a mule on which he had loaded our beds,
a box of our clothing, and my baby organ.
We gave up all hope of ever seeing them
again, but counted ourselves fortunate in get-
ting them returned to us several weeks later.

The remainder of the day passed quietly,
and the rest prepared us for the events re-
corded in the first chapter. There we were in
a Bedouin tent, and from that point I take up
the story.

My wife and self were taken into one of those
goat's-hair homes. Carpets were spread for us
to sit on. Men, women, and children crowded
in to stare at us, and we concluded that they
were all gratified at the capture that had been
made. Soon it occurred to one of them that we
might be hungry, so they asked us by means of
signs if we would eat. We nodded our assent,
and soon they baked us some large, thin cakes
of bread, which were very good. They also
made us coffee and brought us a large bowl of
milk. It was perhaps well for us that we could
not talk to them ; we wished we could have done
so, then we might have got tidings of our com-
panions and our belongings.

In about an hour's time one of our men came

14 GETTING INTO MOAB

to us and made us understand that we were
wanted elsewhere. We got up and followed
him. He led us to a tent on the far side of
the encampment, and there we found our com-
panions. They were in the tent of the chief,
surrounded by his wild sons and rapacious reti-
nue. The chief demanded money for our pas-
sage through his country. Fifty dollars must
be his before we were released, or else he would
keep us and all our goods. To many the sum
demanded would have been small, but to us
and to them it was much, so we refused to
gratify the crafty Arab's demands.

We prayed to God for wisdom and deliver-
ance, then laid down on the bare earth and fell
asleep. On awaking next morning, we saw
some of our boxes lying about the camp at
any one's mercy. Soon the women began to
pull down the tents and move the camp, and
we plainly saw that we must settle something
or else lose all we possessed.

We promised to pay the amount demanded
on the condition that we were escorted to
Kerak in safety, and all our baggage restored
to us. Three of the chief's sons were appointed
to go with us and take us to our mountain home.
Another start was made, but after an hour or so
we were accosted by more Arab horsemen, all

GETTING INTO MOAB 15

excited and furious. Every one was allowed to
pass but my wife and myself. These new
claimants to us were from another family con-
nected with the ruling sheikh, and they de-
manded their share of the plunder before we
could pass. After much wrangling our pro-
tectors got us away and we overtook the
others.

At three in the afternoon we reached Kerak,
all weary, tired, and faint, for we had had neither
food nor drink for fifteen hours. In this man-
ner I was introduced to the Arabs. Ofttimes
afterward I talked with those wild fellows
about that night, only to have them reply —
" What's past is past, and what's dead is dead."

Through all those first experiences, new and
hard on fresh comers, we showed no outward
signs of fear or terror. We realized then, as
we have many times since, that " the angel of
the Lord encampeth round about them that
fear him, and delivereth them." It was only
the commencement of much, and even worse,
that was to follow before the love, respect, con-
fidence, and admiration of those semi-civilized
children of Ishmael were gained, never to be
lost.

CHAPTER III

WHO WAS CAPTURED

SOME knowledge about the author of this
book and his early life will enable the
reader better to follow and understand all that
these pages may contain.

Silver spoons were not floating around in
the home where I first saw the light. I was
one of seven children, who were fortunate in
having godly parents in the fullest sense of the
word. Worldly prosperity was not ours, neither
were we poor, and the future promised no more
for me than the humdrum plod, plod, of every-
day life. It was when I was a lad of eight
years that an announcement, made throughout
my native city, created a desire in my young
mind to hear a public speaker. Robert Moffat,
the pioneer of missions in Africa, was coming
to speak, and I gained permission from rather
unwilling parents to go and hear him. The
unwillingness came not from any wish or
thought that it was no place for one so young
in years, but rather because they thought that

WHO WAS CAPTURED 17

bed was a more suitable place than a crowded
hall for one of so short an existence.

When the night came, I had a front seat in
that hall. The lights, crowds, close attention
paid to the speaker, and other things still linger
in my memory, but the veteran pioneer, with
his bald head and long, gray beard, held me as
no other ever did. The plea for the Hotten-
tots and for volunteers appealed to some, but
perhaps the thing that pleased me as a boy was
the story of the lion jumping out of the jungle
and gripping Mr. Moffat by the shoulder, and
his faithful servant killing the wild beast, thus
saving his master's life. Before that meeting
was over I had made up my mind that I would
be a missionary when I grew up. I made
known my boyish resolve to my mother on
my return home that evening, and for a time
no more was heard of it. Later on my interest
in foreign missions was renewed by hearing
one who had spent many years in China, and
I again determined to spend my life among the
heathen.

For a few years I was quite an enthusiastic
and successful collector for foreign missions.
Most of my half-holidays, which came on
Wednesdays and Saturdays, were given up to
going from door to door asking for contribu-

1 8 WHO WAS CAPTURED

tions in the box that I had gotten from a mis-
sionary society. Discouragements and rebuffs
did not deter me from going ahead, and I was
soon noted for being a successful collector.
This work was often made pleasant by some
incident like the following.

One hot afternoon I was out collecting. A
knock at a door brought a kind-hearted do-
mestic to inquire who was there. " Will you
please put something in my missionary box ?"
was the request. The response was not money,
but, " Come in, little boy, and I will ask my
mistress." I entered and was shown into a
nicely furnished room to await developments.
The servant told her mistress about me, and in
a short time the lacly of the house appeared.
She asked a few questions, which I answered,
evidently to her satisfaction, for she rang the
bell, and in came the servant again. " Bring
in some refreshments for this boy," said the
lady, and soon the domestic came back with a
small tray, on which were some fancy crackers,
cake, and a bottle of wine.

A glass of the latter was poured out and
offered to me, but being a Band of Hope boy,
I refused to accept it. My refusal resulted in
lemonade being substituted for the wine, to
which, along with the cake and crackers, I did

WHO WAS CAPTURED 19

boyish justice. After refreshments I returned
to business, and had the joy of seeing a coin,
worth about sixty cents, added to the collection
in my box.

When only thirteen years of age, I left home
and was apprenticed to the baking and grocery
business, in which I served for three years. At
the end of that time, and during a brief stay at
home, I was led to give my heart to Christ,
through the patience and persuasion of my old
Sunday-school teacher. No better prepara-
tion than this could possibly have preceded my
going to live in the great city of London,
a place full of dangers and temptations to
young fellows from country towns. Arrived in
the great metropolis, I soon got a good position
in a wholesale and retail grocery store, in which,
after a remarkably short time for one so young
in years, I soon became manager.

I owe my success in those days to two
things : my not being ashamed of my re-
ligious convictions and my strict adherence to
my temperance pledge. After business hours
my evenings, as well as my Sundays, were
given up to work in slum missions, Sunday-
schools, or young people's temperance societies.
I was made missionary secretary to a large
Sunday-school in London and raised the mis-

20 WHO WAS CAPTURED

sionary collections in that school from about
eighty dollars a year to more than three hun-
dred. I came into contact with missionary
pioneers and veterans from all parts of the
earth, and all the while was getting more
and more saturated with missionary zeal and
information.

About this time I applied to the pastor of
my church, who was in close touch with the
missionary society of the denomination to
which I belonged, and asked him if he could
assist me to get into the foreign-mission field.
He heard me patiently, and then with grave
face and solemn tones addressed me thus:
" Young man, I fear you are one of the most
unlikely to get into the mission field. Many
things are against you: you have no college
training, you do not come of a ministerial
stock," and other things, all true, but not neces-
sary to the preaching of the simple gospel in
any land. I left that study thinking that there
was no possibility of my ever leaving my own
land to preach the gospel in any other, so
settled down to do my best in the home land.

In 1888 I married, went into business on
my own account, but in my spare time kept
busy with Christian work of one kind and
another. I had yet to learn the truth of the

WHO WAS CAPTURED 21

words spoken by the ancient seer, " My ways
are not your ways ; " also that —

God moves in a mysterious way
His wonders to perform.

God looketh at the heart of man, and knows
his desires, whilst man looks at the outward
appearance and possibilities, so let none despair.
I was quite settled in my home and prosper-
ing in my business when unexpectedly my
opportunity came and my long desire was re-
alized. It was nearly three years after my inter-
view with the ministerial sage that the whole
course of my life was changed. I had returned
from my Sunday-school duties, and was reading
a missionary magazine. It contained an article
on mission work among the Arabs in the old
land of Moab on the east side of the river
Jordan. The work was one of great danger,
hardship, and difficulty, and was being carried
on by a married couple and one young woman.
As I read I was interested, and especially with
the last words, in which an appeal was made for a
young married man, practical, healthy, and ready
to rough it, to go and help in this work, so that
the tired-out workers might have a much-needed
rest. I closed the paper, and as I laid it aside
a voice seemed to say to me, " That is for you."

22 WHO WAS CAPTURED

I could not get away from the impression
made on me, and in a few days wrote to the
secretary of that little mission, which was sup-
ported by a few of God's own whole-hearted
people, most of them by this time in the glory
land.

The secretary was the Rev. George Piercy,
one of the pioneers of missions in China. The
answer to my letter was a visit from the head
of that work and a promise of favorable con-
sideration. But there were difficulties in the
way of my acceptance, — a paying business, a
comfortable home, — and it meant sacrifice to
give up these and go and start life among the
Arabs in the isolated and dangerous land of
Moab.

For four months the matter dropped. Then
came a letter saying — if I was still in the same
mind, the committee would consider sending us
out. We were accepted; in a short time my
business and home were disposed of satisfac-
torily, and we were free to go. A few months
of practical training in hospitals was given each
of us, which over and over again has proved
invaluable during the past fourteen years. My
leaving England for that far-away, little-known
land was a severe trial to my parents ; quite
recently they had buried two of my brothers, and

WHO WAS CAPTURED 23

my going away was like a third break in the
family circle. They, however, committed me to
God, and have never regretted the sacrifice it
meant to them to see me leave my own land,
possibly never to return.

The reader will now understand better the
conditions and reasons that led to my entering
the mission field. It was " Not by might, nor
by power, but by my Spirit, saith the Lord,"
and now that many years have passed since I
started that new life, and circumstances many
and various have been crowded into my life, I
can truly say, I am sure it was God's call to
me, and I have never regretted the step I took,
or the sacrifice I made, to enable less fortunate
ones to come to a knowledge of him who "is
not willing that any should perish, but thaf all
should come to repentance."

CHAPTER IV

" WHO ARE THE BEDOUIN "

THE preceding chapter has told briefly
what circumstances led the writer to a
people most of whom live " 'neath houses of
hair." It will here be suitable to introduce
the reader to the nation among whom the ex-
periences told in these pages occurred.

The modern Arab is a perpetuated reality of
the ancient Ishmaelite. Next to the Jews, no
nation has had such an unbroken or interesting
history. It would be out of place in this vol-
ume to attempt any detailed secular account
of the history of the Arab ; let the Biblical ac-
count suffice.

There can be no doubt that Ishmael was the
founder of the great Arab race. Four promises
made concerning the seed of Abraham and
Hagar are fulfilled before us in these days.
They were as follows : —

To Hagar (Gen. xvi. 10).

" I will multiply thy seed exceedingly, that it
shall not be numbered for multitude."

ARABS OF MOAB, DWELLERS IN TENTS
These are the three men who were with Mr. Forder when the horses so intelligently gave the
alarm on the approach of robbers. The man on the left-hand side is " Old Faithful," who
has accompanied the author on so many of his journeys among the Arabs. These men belong
to the same tribe, and generally camp east of Kerak in Moab.

«.WHO ARE THE BEDOUIN" 25

To Abraham (Gen. xvii. 20).

" As for Ishmael, Behold, I have blessed him,
and will make him fruitful, and will multiply
him exceedingly, . . . and I will make him a
great nation."

To Abraham (Gen. xxi. 13).

" Of the son of the bondwoman will I make
a nation, because he is thy seed."

To Hagar (Gen. xxi. 18).

" Arise, lift up the lad, and hold him in thy
hand ; for I will make him a great nation."

Thirteen millions of people, proud of their
descent from Abraham and Ishmael, represent
the fulfilment of these four promises.

" He shall dwell in the presence of all his
brethren" (Gen. xvi. 12) has its fulfilment in
an unbroken occupation of their land by the
Ishmaelites as a nation. Invaders, one after
another, have tried in vain to get the Arab's
country, but have failed. Ishmael, represented
by the Arab, dwells before all the nations of the
earth to-day, and no section of his country has
been taken by any of the Christian powers of
the earth, although at a few points on the coast
protection is guaranteed to some of the chiefs
by Great Britain or France.

The names of the twelve sons of Ishmael,
recorded in Genesis xxv. 13, 14, 15, have not

26 "WHO ARE THE BEDOUIN"

altogether been superseded by more modern
designations. Many of the names with only
some slight variation in pronunciation or trans-
posing are still found in Arabia. Towns, lo-
calities, and even families bear some of the
names exactly as they are given in the above
reference.

That Arabia has always been the home and
land of the Arab proper there is no doubt.
Long before the children of Israel possessed
the promised land, the descendants of Abra-
ham through Ishmael possessed their land.
"And they dwelt from Havilah unto Shur, that
is before Egypt" (Gen. xxv. 18) is sufficient
proof that they occupied the peninsula of
Arabia. A thousand years later their land was
spoken of by Isaiah as " the desert of the
sea" (xxi. i).

Division of the Nation. — The Arabs soon
became divided into two communities, — the set-
tled and the nomadic. The Revised Version
of Genesis (xxv. 16) speaks of the villages and
encampments of Ishmael. Hundreds of years
after, in Isaiah xlii. n, we read of the encamp-
ments that Kedar doth inhabit, " lit." Later
again Jeremiah speaks about the tents, cur-
tains, flocks, vessels, and camels of Kedar, and
also refers to this people as a nation, " wealthy,

"WHO ARE THE BEDOUIN" 27

dwelling without care, having neither gates nor
bars, dwelling alone" (Jer. xlix. 28-31). The
Bedouin are that section of the great Arab
nation that are referred to above.

Every Bedouin is an Arab, but all Arabs are
not Bedouin. A Bedouin is one who neither
ploughs nor sows ; he breeds flocks of goats and
sheep and herds of camels. His home is in
the wilderness or desert. His food he gets
from the towns and villages of Arabia, giving
stock in exchange for dates, grain, and the few
other necessities of life. The dwelling of the
nomad or Bedouin is a black tent, literally " a
house of hair," so called from its being made
entirely of goat's hair, which is collected, spun,
and woven by the women in those lands. " Black
as the tents of Kedar" (S. Sol. i. 5) is not
an imaginary expression, but a literal one, the
hair of the Arabian goat from which these
tents are made being black. Kedar, the second
son of Ishmael (Gen. xxv. 13), was probably
the founder of the nomadic section of the Arab
race now called Bedouin.

Nebaioth, the first-born of Ishmael (Gen. xxv.
13), settled in the caves and dens of the moun-
tains of Arabia, and later in their history built
houses which eventually became settlements.
The settled Arab looks despisingly at the

28 "WHO ARE THE BEDOUIN"

Bedouin and considers him much below him
in every way. Call a town or village dweller
a Bedouy and you insult him. On the other
hand, the desert dweller pities the settled peo-
ple, because they are debarred from enjoying
the liberty and healthy life of the desert.

Both sections, however, have many things in
common : their hospitality is proverbial and
wonderful ; in religion they hang together, al-
though the city people are more strict in their
religious observances than the unfettered nom-
ads. The style of dress varies little. The
women in the towns and villages are generally
secluded, whilst the women of the " houses of
hair " go unveiled and have their liberty.

The Arabs as a nation have not always been
prominent in either Biblical or secular history,
but certain allusions to them, from time to time,
strikingly remind us of their continuous exist-
ence. It was to a company of Ishmaelites that
Joseph was sold and taken into Egypt. Picture
the swooping down upon the servants of Job,
their being slain, and the oxen and asses being
driven off. Who were the marauders ? The
section of Ishmaelites known as the Sabeans.
From whence did the Queen of Sheba come
to visit Solomon ? From the land of the Arab.
And probably the men who came from the East,

"WHO ARE THE BEDOUIN" 29

seeking the infant Saviour, belonged to the
Bedouin of Arabia. The New Testament
gives evidence to the existence of the Ara-
bians, for they were present in Jerusalem at the
day of Pentecost (Acts, ii. n).

Later secular history occasionally pushes the
Arab to the front to be heard of for a short
time, and then to retire into seclusion again.
The experiences of the Arabs have not always
been of such a nature as to help them to a
better state either socially, religiously, or com-
mercially. From the time Ishmael with his
mother was driven away from the tent of
Abraham, their " hands have been against every
man, and every man's hand against them."
Physically, they are a fine race, slim and wiry,
able to stand fatigue and privation. To an
enemy they are treacherous and cruel, but to
their friends, faithful and kind. Once gain
the confidence of the Arab and you have made
a lifelong friend.

As a nation they have no contact with in-
toxicating drinks ; immorality is promptly and
severely dealt with by the killing of the guilty
parties. They are fond of their children,
especially their boys, the advent of a son into
the family causing a change in the name of
the father ; henceforth he will be known as the

30 "WHO ARE THE BEDOUIN"

" father of ," whatever the name of his first

son may be.

The greater part of the Bedouin are free
from any form of government. Every tribe
and family has its sheikh, or chief, to whom
they refer in times of doubt, difficulty, and
danger. His decision often settles matters.
The position is not hereditary, but is often
kept in the same family, the only reason for
choosing one from another family being the
inability of the son of the late chief to conduct
affairs or rule his people.

The events and experiences related in this
book may lead some of the readers to conclude
that the Arabs are a very unsociable and dan-
gerous lot to live among. After many years
among them, I firmly believe that ignorant fa-
naticism, coupled with deeply embedded super-
stition, has been the cause of much that I have
passed through. Give the Bedouin a chance,
gain his respect and confidence, and you have
made a faithful and lifelong friend. Since
the day that Ishmael was cast out into the
desert, it seems that every man's hand has
been against him, but a brighter day is dawn-
ing for him.

AN ARAB SHEIK

The sheik, or chief, is one who controls a tribe, town, -village or encampment. Tribal
disputes are referred to him for settlement. Among the nomads, he orders the camp to be
moved and selects the new " pitch." This sheik, who is a Christian, is the chief of Me-
daba, and a good friend to the author of this book.

CHAPTER V

NEW EXPERIENCES UNDER DIFFICULTIES

OUR arrival in Kerak was the cause of
much excitement for many days. The
enormous demands of the avaricious chiefs
caused us much annoyance. The Turkish
government had no authority in the region,
and we had no one to appeal to for help. The
ruling sheikh was unable to control either his
many sons or others who considered them-
selves of importance.

In time our baggage was brought in, but
we discovered that some of it had been opened,
and many things were missing. We made
our home in a room about twenty feet square,
half underground; there was neither window
nor chimney, and the only opening into it was
the door. The fireplace was in the middle
of the mud floor, and the smoke had to escape
as well as it could. If an adverse wind kept
it from going out at the door, we went out
instead, — driven by smarting eyes and chok-
ing lungs. We had no means of keeping out

32 NEW EXPERIENCES UNDER DIFFICULTIES

the many curious ones that came to investigate
the new arrivals, and the only way to get pri-
vacy was to close and lock the door and con-
sign ourselves to semi-darkness.

We found a small boy's school which had
been carried on by our predecessors. Many
of the lads spoke good English and had be-
come quite civilized and well behaved. One
of these lads was put at my disposal as inter-
preter; by his aid and my own persistence I
soon gained a practical knowledge of the
Arabic language. My time for the first few
weeks was divided between attending the sick
who gathered about my door and fixing up
our primitive home. Tables, stools, and cup-
boards had to be made from packing-cases,
and thankful I was that I had learned to use
a few tools. The Arabs were all interested in
my doings, and would sit for hours and watch
me. Gradually I became an M.A. to them, so
clever did they esteem me.

One of my earliest experiences gave me a
good record among the men who were inclined
to shun me as one to be feared. I was passing
up through the narrow streets of that Moab
city, and hearing some yelling turned aside to
find out what it meant. I entered a house,
dimly lighted, and saw a man being held down

NEW EXPERIENCES UNDER DIFFICULTIES 33

by four or five others. One was leaning over
him and doing something to the fellow's mouth.
My appearance caused a pause in the opera-
tions, and on inquiring I was told the man
stretched on the floor had the toothache and
had come to the blacksmith to have it taken
out. I asked him why he yelled so. He told
me " because the man with the pinchers got
hold of several teeth and part of his tongue
and pulled." I suggested that I could make a
better job of it than the blacksmith, at which
he got mad, because that meant a loss of some
wheat which was to be his payment

My suggestion prevailed, and the sufferer
made his way to my house to await my return.
\Yhen I arrived, I found a good crowd waiting
to see what would be done for the man with
the toothache. I got my forceps, which were
thoroughly examined by all present. The suf-
ferer was fearful lest I should fail to accom-
plish what the blacksmith had attempted. He
asked for proof that I could remove his tooth.
I showed him a bottle with a few teeth in, and
assured him that what I had done for others I
could do for him. He yielded, and in a few
moments was relieved. Taking his tooth he
went out into the sunlight, threw it toward the
sun, exclaiming " O sun, take the tooth of a

34 NEW EXPERIENCES UNDER DIFFICULTIES

donkey and give me the tooth of a gazelle."
He then turned to me and asked me to put in
a tooth in place of the one I had extracted. I
told him it was impossible to do so, and he
went off disappointed but grateful. My fame
began to spread, and soon I had as much surgi-
cal and medical work as I could do. This gave
the natives confidence in me, and some that had
treated me badly began to become friendly.
They brought me all sorts of things to mend,
— boots, wooden bowls, saddles, boxes, — and
to the best of my ability I fixed them.

In the noon I had a class of boys that came
for one hour to learn English. I think I
learned more Arabic from them than they did
English from me, but the hour spent together
was a mutual benefit.

Often I would go to some encampment of
Bedouin 'to attend some who were sick or had
been wounded in a fight. One of my first
experiences in an Arab camp will be of interest
to the reader. We heard that a fierce fight had
taken place between some of the Keraki Arabs
and those of a neighboring tribe, the latter
being famed for their ferocity and daring. In
the fight eight were killed, and the next day
brought into the city to be buried. We heard
that many were wounded and three likely to die.

NEW EXPERIENCES UNDER DIFFICULTIES 35

Next day two men came to our house and
asked if I would give them medicine to take to
the wounded lying in a camp away on the
plains. At the same time a man came with a
message that the sheikh who was in the city
wanted to see me at once. With my lad as
interpreter, I went to him, and found him with
several of his sons and minor chiefs sitting on
a housetop holding a council. I shook hands
with them all round, and then took a seat by
the side of our chief. The last time I was in
their company was under very different circum-
stances. Then I was their prisoner in a house
of hair; now I was their guest, by invitation.
The old chief said to me, " It is my wish that
you go and doctor the wounded out in the
camp." It was about five hours' ride away from
the city, but they told me it was quite near.
The chief said I should have an escort to keep
me from interference, and that he would provide
a horse for me to ride. I told him I would go,
and would be ready in half an hour. My boy,
Mohammed, was to accompany me, to act as
interpreter.

After eating some food, for Mrs. Forder got
me a hasty meal whilst I packed my knapsack
with medicines and instruments which I thought
I should most likely require, I made my way

36 NEW EXPERIENCES UNDER DIFFICULTIES

up into the city. In a few minutes a horse was
brought for me and a mule for my boy, and
away we went with two wild-looking men, quite
intending to return on the morrow. It was a
very long ride, and tiring as well, up the hills
and over mountains, down into deep valleys and
across never ending plains, until just before sun-
set we came upon the camp of about ninety
tents pitched in a valley. I was very glad to
get off my horse and stretch my legs, but I was
anxious to do what I could for the sufferers be-
fore dark, so asked where they were, and also
for the man that was wounded the most.

I was taken to a large tent, in which lay a
man who had nine wounds from guns, spears,
swords, and daggers, and it was evident to me
that I needed the knowledge of a fully qualified
surgeon for the task that was before me. As I
stood over the man and saw the cuts from the
sword, some six inches long, and the gunshot
wounds, I shook and trembled like a leaf, but
offering up a short and silent prayer to my
Master in Heaven for courage and wisdom for
the task, I set to work to sew up and bandage
one place after another, until the poor man was
a little more comfortable than before. All the
time I was doing this I was surrounded by
some seventy or eighty men and women, who

NEW EXPERIENCES UNDER DIFFICULTIES 37

were surprised to see me sew up the open
cuts.

I then asked for the next man. Although it
was now dark, I said I would do the three men
that were so badly hurt, but they quickly told
me there were twenty-two like the one I had
just seen. Of course I could not attend to all
of them that evening ; so, doing my utmost for
three, I went back to my first patient, and asked
for something to eat. They said I was to sleep
in this tent, and then they set about making
bread for me and the lad ; this was made in
large, thin cakes, and was very good. They
gave us three eggs to eat with the bread. I
asked for water so that I could make some tea,
but what they brought was like mud, and I
could not use it. In a short time a man came
in with some sheep's milk, and we gladly drank
it; this was our evening meal.

Whilst we were sitting round the fire I told
my boy to ask if we should read to them from
God's Book. Some said yes ; so, having an
Arabic copy of Deuteronomy and of Matthew
with me, I told Mohammed to read the Com-
mandments, and I said a few words to accom-
pany them. Some of the men were attentive;
others only mocked and laughed at us.

In this tent there was the usual Arab

38 NEW EXPERIENCES UNDER DIFFICULTIES

mixture, and visitors are supposed to make
themselves quite at home amongst it all. The
varied inmates of our tent were : men, women,
and children, goats, kids, sheep, lambs, dogs, and
puppies, two donkeys, three cows and one calf,
two horses and one mule, and fowls without
number.

Now you will guess that, with the noises
from all these, I did not care much about the
situation, and outside the tent were hundreds
of goats and sheep contributing to the noise.
About eight o'clock the owner of the tent
asked if I wanted to sleep, and as I was very
tired, I said yes ; so he laid a thin rug over some
dry heather and grass, and motioned me to lie
down. After having silently prayed to God for
protection, Mohammed and I lay down without
a covering and tried to sleep; but the groans
and cough of the sick man, the coarse laughing
and shouting of the men and women, and the
different animals inside and out made sleep
almost impossible. At last I did fall into a
good sleep, and had forgotten all my surround-
ings, when I felt some one shaking me.

Opening my eyes, I saw the man who was
ill being held up on his legs by several men,
and, on awaking my lad, found out that they
said " he had a pain and wanted medicine " ;

NEW EXPERIENCES UNDER DIFFICULTIES 39

they thought it would do him good to walk
him about. I quickly made them lay him on
his rude bed, and told them that was the way
to kill him. Giving him a sleeping draught, I
again lay down and tried to sleep, but the
wind had risen in great force and was blow-
ing through the tent, and it was very cold.
At last I again fell asleep, when another good
shaking aroused me, to find that the rain was
coming down in torrents and dripping through
on me ; there was quite a pool in the place
where I was lying. For the rest of the night I
sat over the fire listening to the wind and rain,
and again and again wished that I was safe in
our humble abode at Kerak.

At last the morning dawned, but with it no
improvement in the elements. Having eaten
some bread and drunk some milk, I told them
I would see the other wounded. I dare not
attempt to describe the awful state of the poor
men ; every one of them needed the care and
attention of the best hospital in the world.
However, God made me useful to them, and I
carefully washed, sewed up, and bandaged all
their wounds. Some of them were very thankful
and kissed me over and over again ; some of
their mothers and wives gave me raisins and
prunes and other things to eat. By the time I

40 NEW EXPERIENCES UNDER DIFFICULTIES

had finished, the rain was over, and I asked to
be taken back to the city as arranged, but not
one man would move to go with us, so I said I
would walk. They all said I was to stay until
the wounded men were well, and they should
not let me go away from the tents. They also
said that our sheikh told them I was to stay
ten days ; this was a lie, and I told them so.
Then the rain began to pour down again, and
I and my lad started to walk to Kerak, and set
off up the hill. When we reached the top,
some twenty of the men came running after
us and took away my boy from me, and one
man, who afterward proved a true friend, took
off his large " abba," or cloak, and put it over me
to keep me dry. Then three or four of them
pushed and carried me back to the camp, and
put me in the tent where I had slept the night
before.

This tent was a miserable shelter, and the
man who covered me with his coat seemed to
understand that I was not as comfortable as
possible, so he took me away over another hill,
and we came on about twelve more tents, in
one of which he lived. Here he put plenty of
rugs for me to lie on, and then told the woman
to make a big fire, to warm and dry me. Next
he asked what I would eat — should they kill a

NEW EXPERIENCES UNDER DIFFICULTIES 41

sheep, goat, lamb, or kid ? Anything that " was
in my heart " he would do for me. I asked for
a fowl, and some salt and onions ; these were
quickly brought in, and I cleaned and cooked
this fowl in my own way, without any native
messes. They baked me bread, and Mohammed
and I made a decent meal, after which my Arab
friend made me coffee with sugar and milk in
it. We found out afterward that this man
had lived in Damascus and Beyrout, and had
seen a little of European ways and manners.

After we had eaten, we went round to the
worst of the patients and made them easy.
One man had his nose cut clean off, and his
mother produced this severed member for me
to sew on again, but I could not comply with
her request, although she entreated me to do
so. Night came on, and I was made very com-
fortable by the fire. I asked if we should read
to them from God's Book ; they assented, and
my lad read, and I explained the Command-
ments and a few verses from St. Matthew ; they
were very attentive. Afterward they began
to question me on many subjects : How much
money did I have to pay for my wife ? Where
was my sword, dagger, gun, and spear? To
the first I replied, " English people do not buy
their wives." To the other question I said that,

42 NEW EXPERIENCES UNDER DIFFICULTIES

God was stronger than man, and He took care
of me. They could not realize this, and one
man offered to give me his pistol. Questions
followed about the Queen ; then they asked
" whether the people in my country had such
nice tents to live in as they had." I told
them of the large and beautiful houses we had
in my land, in which they were interested.

At a late hour I fell asleep, and slept till
daybreak, when I arose ; having eaten some
bread and drunk some milk, I prepared to walk
to Kerak. I looked round for my Arab friend,
but he had gone away with some flocks. Then
one well-dressed man came up and said if I
would go and see his brother and dress his
wounds, he would take us both to Kerak. I
did so, and then looked for my man, but he was
missing ; three times I had been treated like
this, so I determined to set out, as there was
every prospect of a fine day. Again we climbed
to the top of the hill, some thirty or forty men
shouting after us to come back ; then they tried
again to force us back. In the middle of the
struggle my Arab friend suddenly appeared. I
believe God sent him just then. He quickly
scattered the ravening wolves, and said he
would take us to the city. As he had only
just recovered from an attack of fever, he said

OVENS USED BY THE ARABS

These ovens, made by the women and hardened in the sun, answer their purpose well.
Dried grass, chaff, manure and brushwood are used to heat these mud ovens, and once
heated, they remain hot for a long time. They take many days to construct and are
easily broken.

NEW EXPERIENCES UNDER DIFFICULTIES 43

he must go back to the camp and get a horse.
Leaving his "abba," pipe, big boots, and head-
dress, as a pledge of his return, away he went,
and in a quarter of an hour returned, and we
started for Kerak. After about three hours,
walking over ploughed ground and soft turf,
we came in sight of the old castle at Kerak,
but still two hours' ride from us. My lad said,
" See, Mr. Forder, the castle ; I am very joyful ! "
So was I, and sang in real earnest the beautiful
hymn, commencing : —

As when the weary traveller gains
The height of some o'erlooking hill,

His heart revives if 'cross the plains
He sees his home, though distant still.

We plodded on, passing two hyenas and
some foxes, and about three in the afternoon
reached Kerak. Our return caused quite a
commotion, but all seemed glad to see me
again. Thus ended my visit by invitation to
an Arab encampment. Though rather rough
and unpleasant, yet it was an experience that I
can now look back upon with pleasure. To be
used by God to help those poor ignorant people
was an honor !

CHAPTER VI

THROUGH TRIALS ENEMIES BECOME FRIENDS

THE first six months of my life among the
Arabs had passed quickly, and I trust
profitably, to those to whom I had gladly minis-
tered. A kinder feeling toward the mission
was manifest, especially from those who had
been its opponents since it was commenced.

Mr. and Mrs. Lethaby left Kerak two weeks
after our arrival and went to England for a well-
earned rest. Mr. Lethaby never returned, and
his wife only came back, with much sorrow of
heart, to take away their few things. Events
sad and mysterious prevented the founders of
that mission from returning to it, and I was left
to carry it on. Assisted by my wife, whom the
Arabs had learned to love and serve, I worked
from sunrise until evening, helping the people
and teaching the boys.

On Saturday morning, May 7, 1892, just eight
months after we entered Moab, my wife fell

ENEMIES BECOME FRIENDS 45

dead in our house. Without any sign of failing
health, or time for a parting word, she was
called from earth to heaven. The Arabs were
broken-hearted about it and showed me great
kindness in those days of darkness and sorrow.
The sad news spread rapidly, and before night-
fall many of our chiefs had come into the city.
We settled to bury my wife on Sunday morn-
ing; so early on the Lord's day the chiefs of
Moab carried to her grave the body of the first
one who had given her life for the salvation of
the Bedouin of Moab. Those same men a few
months before had captured us as we entered
their land, now they shed tears as they com-
mitted that body to the grave. After the burial
those same men came to me, saying, " You must
not think of leaving our country now. Having
buried your dead in our midst, you have become
a son of the land ; we are now brothers, so do
not go away." Enemies had become friends
through a variety of events permitted by an
All-wise God but hard to understand.

Our nearest post-office was a hundred miles
away, and it was necessary for me to go and
send home the sad news. I started the same
day and was escorted by two of our chief's sons
to the limit of their territory. I returned after
about eight days and was again met by some of

46 ENEMIES BECOME FRIENDS

our chiefs. They insisted on my going to their
tents with them, which I did. They killed a
sheep, made coffee for me, gave me presents of
milk, eggs, bread, and sundry other things, and
treated me in the kindest possible way. I slept
in the tent of the head man, and early next
morning set out for the city, accompanied by
two of the younger chiefs, who brought me to
my house safely.

The news had reached the city that I was
returning, and every one turned out to welcome
me. Our schoolboys and my English class
came running down the mountain side to meet
me. Meals were prepared in many homes for
me, and numerous presents of food, fruit, and
more things were forced upon me. What a dif-
ferent reception to the one I received less than a
year before, and since then matters have im-
proved and such experiences belong to the past.
My only companion and fellow-worker in those
days was an English woman who had gone to
Kerak two years before me. She, like myself,
made many friends among the Arabs, until cir-
cumstances compelled her to retire, never to
return to the mission field again.

My first letter home after my return gives
some account of how my time was spent and how
I made more friends ; a part of it reads thus : —

ENEMIES BECOME FRIENDS 47

" Now I must tell you how busy I have been
since I returned, and what dreadful doings have
taken place. Last Wednesday, the 25th, a
fight took place between Mujellies and the next
tribe, the Skour ; two brothers, sons of Sheikh
Khalil, were cruelly murdered, not killed in fair
fighting, but captured and killed in a barbarous
manner. These two were our best friends
among the Mujellies, so that it is to us a really
serious loss; they were fine young men, and
much respected by the Keraki. Besides these,
two more, sons of sheikhs, and two Keraki as
well, were killed.

On Thursday morning the sad news was
brought to the city, and at once men, women,
and children joined in the wailing, strong men
crying like children from real grief. Two hours
later the bodies arrived loaded on three camels ;
the sight was one I shall never forget, and the
wailing of the women cannot be described.
When the bodies were washed, I stood by and
saw all the wounds; it was a dreadful sight;
'such butchery I never want to see again.

During these proceedings and the funeral
following, a request came that I should at once
go out to the tents to see a wounded man, son
of one of the sheikhs, a cruel man. At first
I refused, as a boy only was to go with me,

48 ENEMIES BECOME FRIENDS

and the country was in such a disturbed state,
the Skour being bold enough to come into
Kerak territory; the sheikh then said, 'Wait
until the morning and I will go with you
myself.'

Next morning we started at six o'clock, tak-
ing plenty of medicines, etc., with us. After
four hours' ride we reached the tents, and I
found the poor fellow dreadfully wounded; I
sewed up spear and sword wounds, and made
him comfortable. In the afternoon the head
sheikh, who had lost his two sons, came from
the city, accompanied by all the other sheikhs ;
they did all they possibly could to make me
comfortable, killed a sheep for me, and kept me
well supplied with coffee and milk. I slept with
them that night, and the following day returned
to the city to get more suitable medicines.
This family of Mujellies, who have been so
cruel to Mr. and Mrs. Lethaby, now swear eter-
nal friendship, and I really think they would
not hurt a hair of our heads. I am glad that I
have been used of God for their good ; con-
tinue to pray for them especially, that they
may accept the Saviour. They sorrowed with
us, and we are permitted to be with them in
their time of trouble. It is to these I am going
in an hour or two.

ENEMIES BECOME FRIENDS 49

We had made up our minds to have a quiet
Sunday. The boys had come and gone, and I
was having a tune on the baby organ, previous
to a short service, when two heads appeared
over the gate. On inquiry, a request was made
for me to go out and see a man badly wounded,
lying in some tents about one and a half hours'
ride away; he had been wounded in a recent
fight, and had been brought on a camel as far
as he could come.

Feeling it to be a call of duty, I had to put de-
sires aside, and although very tired from the two
previous days' work, I soon packed my saddle-
bags and set off. I found the man in a dread-
ful state, the worst case I have had as yet. His
arm was deeply cut above the elbow ; I had to
put five stitches in it, in his chin two, chest one,
back two. With lint and plaster and bandages,
after two hours' work, I got him in a comfort-
able state. After eating some eggs and bread, I
started back again, reaching our house just
after 3 P.M., quite tired out. I shall have to
go out several times to this man before I can
leave him to the care of his own people. If I
could read and explain the Bible to the people,
I have plenty of opportunities to do so, but I"
am at present only the advertising agent of the
Kerak mission. In my spare time I read a

50 ENEMIES BECOME FRIENDS

little Arabic, and when possible read with the
boys in the school ; I get on very well with the
talking, but don't seem to make much progress
with the written language."

Hardly a week passed but I was called to go
to some village or encampment to attend some
sick or wounded man. Thanks to the simple
and open-air lives the people live, my patients
generally recovered, and the Arabs were sharp
enough to recognize that my presence among
them was a benefit rather than a misfortune.

These frequent visits to and sojourns in the
tents of the Arabs gave me splendid opportuni-
ties to observe and study the everyday life and
customs of the people. Gradually I got accus-
tomed to the rough-and-ready life, and could
eat almost anything they set before me pro-
vided I did not see it prepared.

I passed many sleepless nights in these
houses of hair, kept awake often by the furious
barking of the dogs, who were keeping off some
wild beast intent on attacking the flocks. The
wailing of the women over one of their men
lately killed deprived me of many a night's rest,
as did also the drawn-out groans of a one-
stringed fiddle played by the man whose duty
it was to watch and await any alarm of attack
on the camp or flocks.

ENEMIES BECOME FRIENDS $1

Under such circumstances as these I made
friends, some of whom have faithfully served
me during trying and dangerous journeys, even
risking their lives so that mine might be pre-
served. But this for another chapter.

CHAPTER VII

TRYING TIMES IN TRYING PLACES

AFTER my arrival in Moab, and gradual
acquaintance with the Arabs both in
town as well as in camp, the mission had pros*
pered sufficiently to encourage us to attempt
new things in the way of buildings. Medical
and school work could not be carried on satis-
factorily in the porches of our houses, and if the
work was to be efficiently carried on, something
must be done to procure more suitable accom-
modation. A short visit to England for consul-
tation with our committee resulted in sufficient
funds being raised to lease land and erect
houses, in a much better style than the ordi'
nary "dugout" of the Arab.

Our new buildings were above ground.
Windows, cupboards in the walls, good doors,
and other conveniences savoring of civilization
were innovations that interested the Arabs.
The woodwork and much of the plastering
had to be done by myself, and we were in-

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TRYING TIMES IX TRYING PLACES 53

deed thankful when we moved into our new
quarters.

On my return to Moab the journey from
Jerusalem was again one of exciting interest.
My sister returned with me and had her first
and only taste of life in houses of hair. Her
own words shall tell the story as written at the
time.

" We left Jerusalem about 7 A.M. with three
camels, three or four donkeys, and two men,
and kept on until eleven, when we reached a
khan and remained there for about half an hour.
Then we went on through mountains until
nearly 3 P.M., when we reached Jericho. The
hotel was shut up, as the season was over, so
we had to sit outside in a kind of farm-yard
with men, women, and children all around, and
animals as well. After a rest we made a start
for the Jordan ; this time we had a plain to
cross. It was ve'ry hot, as we were on a level
with the Dead Sea. At 6 P.M. we were on the
banks of the river ; it was so different to what
I expected. Instead of green hills and fields
it is all sand, quite like the seashore, and on
both sides very many people and animals were
waiting to cross. There is only one barge, and
this has to be pulled to and fro by means of
ropes. We managed to get over about seven

54 TRYING TIMES IN TRYING PLACES

in the evening, our boxes, camels, and men in
one load. I felt very tired after so much rid-
ing, and after making some tea we tried to
sleep, but it was impossible, owing to the noise
of the animals and men. Among the crowd
were hundreds of goats, and from these one of
our men obtained a supply of milk, which we
thoroughly enjoyed.

It was full moon, so we could see quite well,
and it looked so strange to see such a lot of
men and animals lying in the open air, and
the big blazing fires to keep off wild animals.
About two o'clock in the morning the men
told us they wanted to go on, and we were not
sorry, because then we should finish the Jordan
plain before the heat of the day. By six. o'clock
we were at the foot of the mountains beyond,
and by the waters of Heshbon I got my sponge
and soap and knelt on a stone and washed in
the river, which was very refreshing. Here
we had a meal, and by eight o'clock were on
our journey again. We went on up, up, up,
until I thought we should never have finished.
Men at the Jordan told us not to go to Medeba
as it was not safe, so we kept on till about
eleven o'clock, when we came to some Bedouin
tents and there put up, for we were tired of
riding. We went into their tents and lay

TRYING TIMES IN TRYING PLACES 55

down, but I could not bear it, the men and
women made such a noise with their talk, and
it was so fearfully hot ; and worse than that, the
women and children came crowding round us,
and they were so fearfully dirty. You cannot
imagine people living in such a state. After a
while we found a little shed place at the end of
the tents, which was much better than being
in the midst of the people.

We stayed here all the next day. At sun-
set the women began to make bread and pre-
pare supper; then the flocks and goats came
wandering over the hills, and they all had to
be milked ; some did one thing and some
another. They gave us plenty of milk, which
was delicious. When the men came home,
fires were made, and sitting around the same
pot we ate our evening meal. Again the
animals kept us from sleeping, and at two
o'clock the men said they were ready to go, so
up we had to get, and off once more, this time
for Mien instead of Medeba, which we reached
about eight in the morning.

We went to the native schoolmaster's house,
such as it was, and as soon as we got inside,
men, women, and children came flocking in
to look at us ; there they sat on the floor,
which was of earth, and smoked. Then our

56 TRYING TIMES IN TRYING PLACES

host brought us bread, and we had a tin of jam
with us, so we had our breakfast, and by this
time I had taken a survey of the house.

It was a fair-sized vault, underground, and
frequently we had showers of dust from the
roof. The room was very dark as the door was
small and low down. The only furniture was
two large heaps of stone covered with mud
plaster, one on either side; these were their
beds — of course no blankets, sheets, or pil-
lows. The family — father, mother, and two
boys, one about twelve years old and the other
about two — slept on one, and my brother on
the other. Arch made me a little room for
myself in one corner by standing our boxes
one on the other ; some boxes made a bed, so
I was better off than the others.

A coffee-pot was about the only civilized
thing they possessed, besides two or three tin
pans, which were used for everything — for us
to wash in and to eat from. They simply
poured a little water over their hands and let
it go on the ground when they washed. They
gave us plenty of their native bread and some
honey ; it all came in these tin pans, and we
had to sit one on each side of our boxes, the
pan in the middle on the box, and dip our
bread in, and this had to continue for a week,

TRYING TIMES IX TRYING PLACES 57

because we could get no men to take us on to
Kerak.

You can imagine the days seemed very
long, as we had nothing whatever to do. We
could not go outside all day because of the
heat. At last we got a man to promise to
take us on, but my brother had to pay him
good money before he would face the dangers
of the road ; then when we thought to start,
and had all our things ready for loading, the
man sat in his house doing nothing, and said
it was not convenient then — he would go in
the morning. Of course we could only wait,
and finally got away about eight o'clock next
day.

We started for the Hameideh tents to get
a guide to take us on ; these we reached about
5 P.M., very tired, but could not get free of the
women and children for some time. Directly
you are in the tents they swarm round you,
and some would feel my dress and boots, and
some my face, I suppose to see if I was flesh
and blood like themselves. We had some
milk when the goats came home, and one was
killed in honor of our visit, but I could not
touch it. I had tried it once before, and
that was enough. Again the goats, horses,
donkeys, camels, cows, sheep, dogs, etc., pre-

58 TRYING TIMES IN TRYING PLACES

vented our getting much sleep, and just as we
did get off, which was about three o'clock, the
men wanted to go on, so we got up and once
more made a start. The ravine of Mojib was
before us, so we. had to 'make our hearts
strong ' — a native expression.

It is impossible to describe what this place
is like so that you could fully understand. It
is like climbing enormous rocks; there is stone
enough to build cities. I thought we had
come to the top two hours before we did ; we
stopped about two hours by a little mountain
stream, and sat under oleander trees, which
were so lovely after the hot sun and glaring
rocks. I walked down a good way; it was
more than I could do to ride a horse down
such a fearful place.

Going along one very narrow mountain path,
one donkey slipped, or rather the earth gave
way under it, and the poor animal, loaded with
my tin box, another box, and my fiddle, wrent
sliding down about twenty or thirty feet I
stood and trembled for my fiddle, but it was an
earth hill, about the only one passed, and only
a little damage was done. We reached the
top about seven, where we came upon an en-
campment of tents made of goat's hair and had
to be stared at again, and then, after a good

TRYING TIMES IN TRYING PLACES 59

drink of milk and a rest for four hours, we
made our last start for Kerak, and this time
had level ground to go on.

It was just eleven when we set out. It
was not nice riding in the dark, but we had
rest and comfort in view, so did not mind ; we
came to the Mujelli tents about three in the
morning and passed them safely, and had a
first view of Kerak about six ; it looked so
nice from the hill, but we had to go down and
up before reaching it. We went down very
well and were about halfway up when we met
a young fellow who took a fancy to my brother's
morea — the rope round his head — . It was a
new one he had bought in Jerusalem. The
man wanted him to take his old one, and give
him the new one ; my brother remonstrated,
but the man was determined and pulled out
his dagger. I was terribly frightened, and to
quiet me the robber was allowed to have his
own way.

One of our men had gone on to tell that
we were near, so before long the school children
were scrambling over the rocks to meet us ;
Miss Arnold met us just outside her house.
The people soon brought us presents ; we
had thirty-three eggs, two live fowls, a big bowl
of butter, which is like lard, two bowls of honey

60 TRYING TIMES IN TRYING PLACES

in the comb, fish from the river, and several
other things, while the landlord killed a goat
for us, as a thank offering for our safe arrival."

After a stay of a few months in Moab, I ac-
companied my sister back to Jerusalem. Inter-
tribal fighting closed the way by Medeba and
Jericho, so we had to take the route round
the south end of the Dead Sea and through
Hebron. The journey this latter way is to be
dreaded for two reasons, the scarcity of water,
and the liability to attack by robbers, the
mountain region and the desolation being very
well adapted for the haunts of highway robbers.

We travelled with a company of traders,
mostly Hebron men, returning from the villages
and plains of Moab, where they had been among
the Arabs bartering the necessities of life for
native produce, such as sheep, goats, tobacco,
olive oil, butter, and other things that would
find a ready sale at good prices in the markets
of Hebron and Jerusalem.

This trip we rode on donkeys. All went
well for the first three or four days, when more
exciting experiences occurred, resulting in the
loss of our goods and a narrow escape with
our lives. One morning early, we left our
camp near the western shores of the Dead Sea,
and commenced the weary and steep climb

TRYING TIMES IN TRYING PLACES 6l

into the mountains. About eight o'clock we
halted for breakfast, unloaded the animals, and
prepared to rest under the rocks during the
heat of the day.

We were eating our simple meal when
twelve men appeared on the brow of a hill near
by. The word " robbers " was passed round,
and fear seized every one in the company.
They came down the hillside, guns in hand,
and when they got within easy distance of us,
they fired a volley at us, wounding two of our
company. This was followed by a volley of
stones, which scattered our men in all direc-
tions. Before we had time to realize what was
happening, a man covered my sister with his
large cloak, and lifting her up bodily made off
with her. He carried her some distance, then
put her in a cave in the rocks, where he knew
she would be out of harm's way. I picked up
my saddle-bags and followed, but was pursued
by one of the robbers, who shouted as he ran —
" Drop them, or I'll shoot you." I dropped the
bags, which he secured, leaving me to follow my
sister and find her hidden in the cave. She
had not realized what had happened, but sup-
posed that the men were hunting wild beasts.

After a time, wanting to know what was
going on, I crept out, and saw our men and

62 TRYING TIMES IN TRYING PLACES

the robbers quarrelling and fighting over the
spoil and animals. One of the robbers caught
sight of me, came over, and grabbed my cloak,
head-gear, and shoes, leaving me in my cotton
shirt, which, being native-made, reached to my
heels. Our comforts and rugs were taken,
and some of my sister's clothes; the latter were
returned, because it would be a shame, even
among robbers, to take away the things of a
woman. Money was demanded from me, but
having none, I was unable to meet the request.
The man at whose mercy I was saw on my
finger the wedding-ring of my late wife, so
determined to have it. Finding he could not
easily remove it, he applied his dagger, and was
about to cut off my finger, when the chief of
the robber band, seeing what he was about to
do, stopped him, saying, " Don't spill the Chris-
tian's blood ; let him alone," so I was spared
the loss of a finger, besides much suffering.
The animals were loaded and driven away
by the robbers, who made off over the hills,
taking with them our meal bags, water-skins,
animals, and coverings. I went after them and
begged a donkey for my sister to ride on, also
a covering for her use at night, both of which
they gave me. I then appealed to them for
my outer garment, which had been taken. It

TRYING TIMES IN TRYING PLACES 63

is against custom to keep that over night (see
Ex. xxii, xxvi, xxvii). All I got from the
robbers was an old sack, into which I slipped
during the three succeeding nights passed in
the open air on the Judean hills, exposed to
the dews and cold so frequent in those parts.

With my head-gear and shoes gone, and my
outer garments taken from me, I was exposed to
the burning sun by day and the cold winds of
those moonlight nights, but under such adverse
circumstances I experienced the fulfilment of
the promise, " The sun shall not smite thee by
day, nor the moon by night " (Ps. cxxi. 6).

After three days of weary travel, we reached
the vineyards and olive-groves of Hebron. At
daybreak I presented myself at the door of a
missionary's house, but my outward appearance
kept the servant from allowing me to enter.
She no doubt thought me a beggar. Persever-
ance conquered, and after continued knocking
and calling, those inside realized that some one
was in earnest. They recognized my voice
and at last admitted me, and accorded me a
hearty welcome. That same night I went on
to Jerusalem in the borrowed clothes of my
friend, my extremities conspicuous by reason
of the shortness and tight-fitting garments of
one so much shorter than myself.

64 TRYING TIMES IN TRYING PLACES

The night after my arrival in the Holy City
I was seized with violent pains and fever,
caused .by the long fatigue, exposure, and absti-
nence from food and drink. Good Dr. Merrill,
the American Consul and friend of the needy,
showed me great kindness at that time, and by
God's goodness I was soon raised up and back
again, ministering to those resident in stone
dwellings and in houses of hair also.

Following chapters will record other trying
experiences under trying circumstances ; for the
present these must suffice. We will now con-
sider a brighter and more encouraging side of
the life lived and spent in the interest of the
dwellers in the land of Moab and regions
beyond.

ARAB WOMAN WITH MONEY ON HEAD

This woman has one hundred and fifteen coins on her head. They are part of her wedding
dowry, and are much prized. Only in a few villages are such headdresses seen, and it is
considered a shame for a woman to expose herself sufficiently to be photographed. Mr.
Forder has frequently visited the village where this woman resides.

CHAPTER VIII

ENCOURAGEMENT FROM UNEXPECTED QUARTERS

I HAVE already stated that the work to
which I had devoted my life was sufficiently
encouraging to compel us to consider better
accommodation in which to carry it on. Many
pleasing incidents had come to our notice
that must be recorded, so that others may
be induced to go on with similar undertakings,
although beset by hindrances and unfavorable
surroundings.

\Ye were pleased by the action of two little
boys, brothers, who were in our small school,
and from whom we did not look for such things.
I had been absent from home for some time
attending some wounded men lying in an en-
campment some distance from our station.
Nothing had been heard from me, until one
morning a man leaned over the gate of our
school yard and informed the boys that I had
been murdered and that my body was lying out
on the sand, no one caring to interfere with it.
The report was a false one, for nothing had

66 UNEXPECTED ENCOURAGEMENT

occurred to suggest such a rumor. The lads
were much concerned about my safety and
troubled over the news they had heard. When
they were dismissed, they were more discon-
certed by hearing their relations and neighbors
discussing the rumor which one and all hoped
was untrue.

Two little fellows, on reaching their home, if
such a word is permissible to describe the
place where they lived, were met by their
father, who was ignorant, fanatical, hard-hearted,
and cruel. He detailed to the boys the news
of the morning, finishing up by telling the lads
to give no heed to the teaching of the mission-
aries about God caring for them, or to the be-
lief in Jesus as the Son of God. The little
fellows did not attempt to argue with their
father, but disappeared into an underground
vault. Their father wondered why they should
go there, so followed them. He heard them
talking something after this fashion: —

" We come in here to pray God for our mis-
sionary and to bring him safe home, and if we
pray, we must say something. What shall we
say ? " They settled that the Lord's prayer
would be the best they could repeat, and said
the elder lad, only about eight years old, " If we
do not say just the right thing, we shall have

UNEXPECTED ENCOURAGEMENT 6/

said something, and God will know what we
mean." Then a second difficulty came to their
youthful minds, viz. did God understand their
difficult language, or would the English lan-
guage be easier understood ? After a few mo-
ments' deliberation they decided to say their
prayer in both languages. So, kneeling on the
damp, dirty floor of that dimly lighted vault,
together they repeated the prayer, " Our
Father who art in heaven," first in English
and then in Arabic.

This over, they left the vault and were again
met by their father, who, with oaths and curses,
reviled them for daring to approach Ullah,
" God." Going up to the flat roof of the house,
they looked out over the city. Down the steep
mountain side away in the distance rode a
horseman. The lads saw him, then commenced
to run toward the mission house. On reaching
the gate, they shouted between their gasps for
breath, " He's coming, we saw him, God heard,
so we came to tell you." It was all true.
\Yhilst the little boys had been offering their
petition in the vault, I had crossed the ridge of
the mountains that encircled that Arab city.
The horseman they saw was their missionary,
and when I rode up to the gate of our house, I
was not received in Oriental style and with

68 UNEXPECTED ENCOURAGEMENT

voluminous salutations, but with such words as
these : " We knew you would soon come, be-
cause we asked God to bring you ; " the joyous
faces of the little fellows showing how happy
they were.

Would the reader not be encouraged by some
such experience as the following? After car-
ing for scores of people stricken with that dread
disease, smallpox, I at last was stricken with it.
For a long time I lay helpless and unconscious,
and to add to the fears of my native attendants,
delirious. No comforts or suitable treatment
were available, and I was at the mercy of such
food and doctoring as the Arab mind conceived.
Slowly I returned to consciousness and health,
and was pleased and encouraged to be told that
all through that long sickness four of those
Arabs had undertaken to attend me, two dur-
ing the day and two at night. Faithfully they
did their self-imposed duty, refusing to accept
anything by way of compensation. Every day
numbers of men and women came to my
humble abode and in subdued voices inquired
how I was, and when for a time they feared I
was dying, they begged to be allowed to enter.
My attendants refused their request, only to be
met with such words as these, " He was our
friend when we were in trouble, he came to us

UNEXPECTED ENCOURAGEMENT 69

when others were afraid, let us come in and
just look at him for a minute ; we will not speak
or make any noise, we only want to see our
friend." As I recovered the natives came to
congratulate me, some bringing with them as
a thank offering a few cakes of bread, some
eggs, milk, or fruit, others bringing a fowl
or some firewood. All tried to show their
gratitude for the help I had given them, and
although much of what they brought was un-
suited to one in my condition as a convalescent,
still it encouraged me to do more for the al-
most helpless and neglected descendants of the
bondwoman.

Soon after getting the good-will and confi-
dence of the people, I thought it well to let
them know the main reason for my being
among them. Every morning a crowd of men,
women, and children gathered about my door
for medical and surgical help. I thought such
an opportunity to preach the gospel ought not
to be missed, especially as most of the people
were unable to read for themselves, and all of
them quite ignorant of the things contained in
the Bible. Some came only once and would
never return, and unless they heard the Good
News when present, possibly no other chance
would be theirs.

70 UNEXPECTED ENCOURAGEMENT

One morning I introduced the Bible, telling
the people that it was God's word and I wanted
them to hear it read. Reverently and atten-
tively they listened as some portion of the Old
or New Testament was read and explained to
them. Some would ask questions, many of
them intelligent and surprising. Several came
time after time only to listen. Ofttimes they
were not satisfied with the portion chosen,
and because of its shortness and interest they
would request more. One morning I purposely
commenced giving the medicines without any
reading or even explanation, when I heard re-
marks such as these : " No reading to-day ! what
does it mean?" Then one man said, " You have
not read to us this morning." I replied, " Do
you want the reading and teaching from God's
Word ? " The general answer was, " Of course
we want to hear it ; no one but you reads and
tells us such good things, so you must not leave
off, and if you have no time, we will forego
the medicine and listen to you read and speak."

On Sundays I had morning gatherings for
men, which were well attended. During the
ploughing and harvesting seasons not so many
attended, but no Sunday morning came round
without some one coming to hear the Word
spoken and read.

UNEXPECTED ENCOURAGEMENT 71

I was called to a sick man on one occasion,
and after treating him asked him if I should
read to him from God's Book. He assented,
and I read and spoke to those assembled in that
simple home. After I was through, a man in
the company said, " Sir, I heard you read and
tell us that we must not curse or take God's
name in vain like we do, and I have not for-
gotten it ; every day I try not to do so ; your
book tells good things ; I want to obey it and
do as you teach us."

Many were the opportunities for sending
copies of the Bible or some tracts to some
part of the country we could not reach. We
always did so, believing that the " word would
not return void, but accomplish the thing
whereunto it was sent."

One day a man presented himself at my door
who had come a journey of two days. He had
been shot in the shoulder and wanted treat-
ment. For want of a better place we allowed
him to lodge in the porch of our room. We
noticed how attentively he listened to the daily
reading and exposition, and on leaving us he
asked for a book so that he might read for him-
self. We gave him a John's gospel in Arabic,
of which he was proud to be the possessor.
Two months later he turned up again, not for

72 UNEXPECTED ENCOURAGEMENT

more treatment for a lacerated or shot limb,
but with a request for a Bible. Said he : "I
have read the little book you gave me to the
people in my town; they like it very much;
now I have come to ask for a big book, so that
we might read and know more." Such inci-
dents encourage me to believe that many read-
ers of God's Word in different parts of the great
Mohammedan world, also in the lands where I
have travelled and preached, will come to a
knowledge of Him who " willeth not that any
should perish, but that ALL — even Arabs —
should come to repentance."

Was it no encouragement to know that a
party of Arab boys, taught in our school to
pray, were daily remembering me when out
among the Bedouin? If only those riper in
years and experience were as faithful in back-
ing up the worker in far-away lands by their
prayers, how encouraged many a weary one
would be, instead of feeling that he was alone
in the work! Was there no encouragement
in the fact that whereas an Arab would not
trust his best friend or nearest relation with
money or anything he valued, yet he would
come voluntarily and desposit any quantity with
me without even thinking of asking for a receipt
or paper of any kind ?

UNEXPECTED ENCOURAGEMENT 73

Surely it was matter for thankfulness, and
one full of encouragement, that when fighting
took place between the Keraky and Turkish
troops, and men were shot down before my eyes
that I had known for years, their wives and
children came to us for shelter and deliverance,
feeling perfectly secure and safe under our
roof; and then, when they had to leave for
their work in the open fields or gardens, to have
them put with us for safe-keeping their few
jewels and trinkets. And then at last when the
news spread that I was leaving, they came and
besought that we' would not leave them for
good, as they had no one but us to turn to for
help in trouble, threatening that they would
stop us setting out, which, to prevent, we did
one morning at dawn.

Later years have not been without signs of
encouragement. One day a young Arab pre-
sented himself at our door in Jerusalem, saying
he had brought his father to us for treatment.
He had come more than a hundred miles, prov-
ing that some amount of faith in our methods
had resulted from our life and work at Moab.
Was it no cause for joy to us when the old
chief of Moab, who in one day was bereft of
two of his sons, chose to turn aside to us for
comfort and cheer rather than be among the

74 UNEXPECTED ENCOURAGEMENT

howling crowd of his own relations and people ?
That man had been one of those that had
caused me to be taken prisoner and money
paid for my release when first I entered
Moab.

The account of my journey into Arabia,
given in other chapters, cannot be read with-
out seeing between the lines much that encour-
ages us to press forward ; the readiness of the
people to buy the Scriptures, the kindness
shown by those in high places, and last but not
least the workings of a watchful, kind, and
gracious Providence always bringing to mind
the remembrance that " The Lord reigneth,"
and that His Word says, " I will be exalted
among the nations." If any worker in either
the home or foreign field that reads these pages
is discouraged, let him take to himself the
promises that cannot be broken and go forward,
remembering that the " Well done " is not
promised to the good and successful worker,
but to the good asd. faithful servant, who is to
enter into the joy of His Lord.

Walking down the street called Straight, in
Damascus, a man accosted me that I had no
memory of. He was surprised I did not recog-
nize him. " You attended me in an encamp-
ment away in Moab when I had been shot in

A BEDOUIN TENT

This is the dwelling of the nomad, and named by him " the house of hair." These tents
are very strong and heavy, and last for many years. The sides are fastened to the top
by wooden pins about six inches long. So closely \\oven are they that water rarely pene-
trates through them.

THE FORDS OF ARNON, MOAB

This stream is in the bed of a very deep valley that terminates on the shores of the Dead
Sea. It divides the territory of the Amorites and Moabites. In the Pentateuch this place
is frequently mentioned. After heavy rain, this stream is impassable.

UNEXPECTED ENCOURAGEMENT 75

the neck, and when I left for my own place and
people, you gave me one of your gospels. We
have all read it and like it very much," was
what he told me. Before leaving me he asked
me to come among them and tell them of our
religion.

CHAPTER IX

IN COMPETITION WITH NATIVE DOCTORS

MISSION work of every kind in all lands
is always accompanied by times of dis-
couragement. That the former are allowed by
God it cannot be doubted, but all admit that
these times do come, and are ofttimes blessings
in disguise, although not always discerned at
the moment. Without such times coming into
our lives, there might be danger of pride or
self-exaltation over any little success that was
attending our work ; and so these discourage-
ments occur, maybe sometimes to remind us that
it is " not by might, nor by power, but by My
spirit, saith the Lord," all success in our labors
is brought about. Again, discouragement may
teach us many lessons and enable us to gain
valuable experience which otherwise we would
not have gained, and thus temporary dis-
couragement may result in lasting blessing, not
only to individuals, but also to communities.
New work in out-of-the-way places among a
strange and ignorant people always finds much

IN COMPETITION WITH NATIVE DOCTORS 77

to discourage. The idea in the mind of the
Arab is that you are among them for personal
benefit to yourself and not to them. The mon-
arch of the nation you represent has sent you
among them, and is paying you a heavy sum to
stay among a hard and degraded people, or, as
was often told me, I must have killed some one
or committed a great crime to cause me to leave
my own land and settle among the Arabs.
Such opinions as these from those whom you
are trying to benefit are neither helpful nor en-
couraging, rather the reverse, and ofttimes one is
sorely tempted to leave the people to their
foolish imaginations and go elsewhere.

Perhaps some of the greatest discourage-
ments I had was in connection with the medi-
cal work at Kerak. Although the Arabs there
were ready enough to apply to us in time of
need, it was with difficulty that we could get
them to exercise patience for any length of
time. Medical or surgical aid from us was
supposed to have an instantaneous effect on
the patient, and if it did not, very little persua-
sion was needed to put away the unknown
remedy or treatment, and apply one that was
suggested by the women near by. The native
doctor was our greatest hindrance, no doubt
because he was jealous for his craft, and al-

78 IN COMPETITION WITH NATIVE DOCTORS

though the natives acknowledged that our way
was best and our medicines more effective, yet
they preferred ofttimes to pay the native quack
a heavy fee for some visible and painful applica-
tion rather than have our untried, slow-restoring
remedies free.

They could not understand why, for a bad
headache, they should have medicine given
them to drink. Why not do like the native
doctor, apply a hot iron or a bleeding glass to
the spot and so scare away the pain? What
good liquids did for medicine when fever was
in the system could not be understood. Fire,
and blood taking, with a few dangerous drugs,
are the remedies for everything among the
Arabs. To wash a wound and allow it air or
drainage was madness, even sin, on my part;
they would plaster it with filth and exclude air,
and thus, instead of improving matters, make
them far worse. Rest and quiet are rarely per-
mitted to a patient; on the contrary, the
room, or tent, of the sick man will be crowded
with men, women, and children making plenty
of noise. I have known many a one to die that
might have lived if only our advice had been
carried out.

One case in particular comes to my mind
even as I write. One noon I was having my

IN COMPETITION WITH NATIVE DOCTORS 79

meal when a man ran into my room breath-
less, exclaiming, " Come — run — quick ; a man
murdered ! " I jumped up, seized my emer-
gency bag, and without coat or vest followed
the messenger. Up in the city, lying in the road
in the midst of a crowd was a man in a pool of
blood. He had been attacked from behind by
the avenger of blood, and his abdomen ripped
across, causing his intestines to protrude. I set
to work alone; no man cared to interfere, lest
the poor fellow should die and they get the
blame. Carefully I stitched up the gash, replac-
ing the protruding mass as I proceeded ; the
fellow behaved well and kept up beautifully.
Having finished, he was carried on a carpet
into a house near by and was supposed to re-
main there. I persuaded the men to go away
and leave him to get sleep and quiet, and hav-
ing given him a sedative I promised to return
in an hour. I did so, but found the house
fastened up. Inquiring of some people near,
I was told the owners of the house had gone
out to their tents, and the wounded man had
been helped to walk to another house. Thither
I went, to find the place crowded and the poor
fellow exhausted, yet being kept awake to talk
to these so-called friends. I scolded them and
sent them all out, and decided to stay myself.

80 IN COMPETITION WITH NATIVE DOCTORS

Soon he was asleep and rested quietly for two
hours. On waking I left him in charge of a
woman to go to another case, promising to re-
turn and possibly have him taken to my room
so that he might be well cared for. I returned
about sunset, and to my astonishment found
my man was not in the house I left him in.
The woman very coolly told me, " We feared
he would die, and did not want it to be under

our roof. You will find him in 's house."

Off I went and found him again, but he was
too low to be moved ; they told me he could
not walk, so they had put him on a donkey.
I saw the poor fellow was very exhausted, so
stayed with him until he died, which happened
about three hours later. Truly " the dark
places of the earth are full of the habitations of
cruelty." I went home disheartened, but had
learned a lesson never to be forgotten.

On another occasion I was called to a young
man that had violent fever. The native doc-
tor and the women had done all they knew,
but to no effect. I went and listened to all
they had to tell me ; then I told them if they
would leave off treating him, I would do what I
could. They agreed, and for some days all
went well, but the patient was not up and
about as they expected he would be. One

IN COMPETITION WITH NATIVE DOCTORS 8 1

morning I went as usual, but got a cold recep-
tion. I guessed something was up ; I gave the
medicine and left them. A little later on I
returned and gave them a surprise visit.
Before I reached the door I heard cries of
pain, so waited a minute, then crept gently to
the door and looked in. I saw my patient
being held up by three or four men whilst
others applied hot irons to his spine, causing
him to yell from pain. So intent were the men
and women on their cruel work that they had
not noticed me, so when I spoke, they were
surprised, though not ashamed of their doings.
The excuse they made was " he had a pain in
his back, so we were driving it away." After
that I left them a few days, but returned again
to treat both back and fever. The young man
recovered and was always very grateful.

Another time a young baby was brought to
us for treatment, " because it cried"; something
was given it, more to please the mother than
anything else — for babies will cry — and away
they went, and we heard no more of them.
Some days after I was in the encampment of
our sheikh and was asked to look at a baby
that was ill. It was brought to me ; on un-
covering the mite I found it was quite raw and
of a dark color. I asked what they had been

82 IN COMPETITION WITH NATIVE DOCTORS

doing to it to make it in such a condition.
The answer was, " Because it cried we rubbed it
with the medicine you gave the chief to paint
his knee with, but it did not profit." Some
time before I had given the old chief some
liniment iodine for a swollen knee, and they
thought what was good for that was good for
a crying baby. Needless to say, a little grave
was the result of such treatment. On me it
had a good effect, that of discouraging the
giving of medicine or drugs into the hands of
those ignorant of their use.

Our patience was sorely tried by another
family that we did our best to serve. A man
was cleaning his loaded pistol with his little
seven-year-old girl near to him ; suddenly it
went off, the charge entering the little maid's
thigh. Our help was asked and willingly given,
one of our lady helpers going twice a day to
dress the wound and do what was necessary for
the little sufferer. One morning she went as
usual and applied clean dressings. The after-
noon visit revealed a different state of affairs.
The fresh dressings had all been removed, and
in their place a plaster of various abominations
had been put. An old woman, supposed to be
very clever, had advised this, and so it had been
done, and a fee given for the advice and plaster.

IN COMPETITION WITH NATIVE DOCTORS 83

The parents were talked to about their foolish
doings, but to little effect. Patiently the dirty
plaster was removed, the wound cleansed and
dressed once more. All went \vell for a few
days, when again the good done was all upset.
A knuckle bone — supposed to work wonderful
cures — had been worked into the wound, caus-
ing the little girl excruciating pain as well as
opening the wound again. Here, then, was un-
done all the patient care and attention of weeks
past. The reason given was " that the native doc-
tor said there was blood and matter inside that
ought to come out," and they had listened and
acted accordingly. So discouraged were we
that we refused to take the case up again,
unless they paid for the dressings and trouble,
which they did, but the child is lame, owing no
doubt to the attack on the wound with the
knuckle bone.

One more instance must suffice ; although
discouraging and trying to the human being,
yet it eventually made us some good friends
from among those that had been our greatest
tormentors and hinderers. Our chiefs had gone
on "ghuzzu," — a plundering expedition, —
and in a skirmish the eldest son of our sheikh,
and heir to the chieftainship, was badly
wounded in the head, the scalp having been

84 IN COMPETITION WITH NATIVE DOCTORS

cut by a sword. I was called out to attend
him in his tent in an encampment about three
hours' ride from Kerak. I found an ugly
wound stuffed with ground coffee and flour
that had been mixed and forced into the cut
" to keep out the cold." It had set like cement,
but by dint of patient working I gradually
removed it, much to the objection of the inter-
ested onlookers. Doing what I could during
the few days that I stopped, I was able at last
to leave him, promising on the third day to
return and see him. They promised me they
would not interfere in any way with my dress-
ings.

The third morning I rode out ; it was snow-
ing, but I wanted to keep my word. I reached
the tent, tied up my horse, and before any one
was aware of it I had pushed aside the tent
cloth and entered. What did I see? The
native doctor at the head of my patient put-
ting on a plaster made of donkey's manure
and cow's urine ! I stood and looked ; no one
spoke. I went over to the patient, calmly took
the plaster off his head, and put it on the fire,
then told the native quack to get outside at
once. Without a word he obeyed. Then they
told me my medicine had not cured the man, so
they had called in the other and paid him five

MR. FORDER WHEN SITTING WITH THE ARABS

In Arab tents or houses chairs are practically unknown. With their legs folded under
them, the natives rest quite comfortably, whilst the large cloak covers any appearan
of awkwardness by sitting in such a position. The loose flowing garments of the Orients
are very suitable for such an attitude of repose.

als

IN COMPETITION WITH NATIVE DOCTORS 85

mejedies, about four and a half dollars, for his
supposed cure. I pretended to make for my
horse to leave them, but they begged me to stay
and do something; all the lint, bandages, and
ointment I had left had been burned by the
quack's orders, so I could do little but again
cleanse the cut of the filth of the past two days.
Three times they served me thus, but in the
long run I won, and the fellow got about
again. The ride through the snow-storm im-
pressed them, made because I would not break
my promise to be with them on the third morn-
ing. The recovery of the young chief was at-
tributed to my careful and wise treatment, and
many of that family became favorably disposed
toward us.

The foregoing have all been connected with
a people hardly semi-civilized, and so in some
ways to be pitied for their ignorance and treat-
ment toward those who wanted to help and be-
friend them, but the time came when heavier
burdens in the way of discouragements had to
be borne, from those who are supposed to be
civilized and rank with the nations of Europe.

CHAPTER X

AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS, BRIGANDS, AND
RAGING SEAS

IT is not given to every missionary to un-
dergo hardships, dangers, and trials. Some,
during long years of patient breaking-up of new
ground, or seed sowing, have to endure things
that the reaper has no experience of. The dan-
gers and trials endured by Mackay, of Uganda,
or John Paton, in the South Sea Islands, were
followed by remarkable times of reaping by those
that came after them. The workers at Kerak in
Moab are not called upon to endure 'the hard-
ships or humiliations of those who started that
mission in face of danger, fatigue, and privation.
How true the Scriptures respecting work of to-
day and many of the workers, " One soweth, and
another reapeth. I sent you to reap that whereon
ye bestowed no labor ; other men labored, and
ye are entered into their labors." Happy those
who so labor " that both he that soweth and he
that reapeth may rejoice together." Unfortu-
nately, sometimes the reaper forgets the long

AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS 87

years of weary breaking-up and sowing before
he went in to gather in the sheaves. " Render
therefore to all their dues; honor to whom
honor is due," and praise to whom praise.
The life of the pioneer, whether missionary or
otherwise, must of necessity be one full of
danger, trial, and fatigue. The difference be-
tween the two classes is this, that the explorer,
scientist, or hunter generally goes relying on
his firearms, or foregained knowledge of the
people or land, to carry him through, whilst the
missionary should, if he does not, rely solely on
God for protection and guidance under all cir-
cumstances. A man in the possession of fire-
arms will be sorely tempted to put his trust in
them when danger comes, and so weaken his
faith in God, and to spill blood among the
Arabs would mean lifelong enmity and per-
petual absence from the country and people
where such a thing had happened.

This chapter is not written to create sym-
pathy or pity, but that the reader may know
that there is a God that can, and will, deliver,
and also that a missionary's life is not all honey.
The first marked deliverance I had after I
reached Moab strengthened my faith in the
living God. As I was attending the patients
gathered about my door one morning, a big

88 AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS

burly fellow, son of one of the sheikhs, came
up, and, pushing his way through the crowd,
laid claim to my medicine chest. To him it
was useless, but he thought to me most valu-
able, because without it I could not doctor the
people, and so my allowances from the Queen
of England would cease and I would suffer loss.
He refused to give up the chest unless I gave
him money. He not only claimed the chest,
but entered the house and sat himself on the
ground, saying, " Here I stay until I get the
money." He sat some hours, although many
attempts were made to persuade him to go away.
But he was immovable ; I noticed that the key
of the door was in the lock on the outside, so
rising and going toward the door I jumped up
the four steps, pulled the door to behind me,
turned the lock, and had my unwelcome visitor
prisoner. He began to shout and kick the
door, asking that it be opened, but I went
away and left him inside. Up into the city I
went, and came upon my prisoner's father, and
other of our chiefs and their sons, sitting in a
circle in the sun. I went into the midst of them
and told them what had happened, and how I
had Abdullah prisoner. They laughed, but were
angry, told me to go and release him, and they
would tell him not to trouble me again. I

AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS 89

requested that two or three of them should go
with me and bring him away, so jumping up
three called me to follow them. I gave one of
them the key, and told him to unlock the door,
which he did, and out came the prisoner with a
bound, not to meet me, as he expected, but into
the arms of his fellow-chiefs. He cursed and
raved, and swore by the life of God and Mo-
hammed that next time he met me out he would
kill me. Thinking it likely he had taken some-
thing from my room whilst locked in, I asked
that he be searched. They felt his garments,
but found nothing, but I noticed that one of
his arms did not move freely, so got hold of it
and lifted it up before he knew what I was up
to. From under his cloak fell my small clock ;
he had secreted it in his armpit, thinking no
one would notice it. At last he was taken
away, and I was left alone with his threats in
my ear. I saw nothing more of him for three
weeks, although hearing from one and another
of his purpose to harm me.

One morning I was riding out to an encamp-
ment to attend a wounded man. I was alone.
Coming toward me over the plain, I saw in
the distance a horseman. Soon he commenced
to canter, then came on at full gallop. As he
came nearer I saw it was my prisoner of three

90 AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS

weeks before. He was armed with his long
spear, and as he rode up to me, pulled from his
side a revolver and levelled it at me, laughing
and saying, " God has given me my opportun-
ity; now I will kill you and throw your body
into a pit, and no one will know where you are
or what has come of you." I replied, " If no
one else knows, God will, and He will punish
you." At once he dropped the arm holding the
deadly weapon and said, " I never met a man
like you : had you been one of our own peo-
ple, you would even now be dead. Why are
you not afraid ? " " I trust God to protect me
from evil," I replied, "and that is why you
could do nothing." " No," he said, " when you
said ' God will know,' all the power went from
me." He then asked me where I was going,
and on being told said he would return with
me and see that no harm came to me. So he
did, and next morning returned with me to my
home, and from that time we were fast friends,
I ofttimes appealing to him for help in time of
difficulty or need. Some months later I had a
different experience, this time at night. I had
been to attend the chief of a village about six
hours' ride away. I found he had been badly
shot and cut about by some of the young
chiefs of Kerak, because of a quarrel over

AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS 91

some sheep some time before. By careful at-
tention to the wounded man, I was able, after
about eight days' stay, to return to my home in
Kerak. There were two ways to the place I
had gone to, one very lonely, leading through
large boulders of rock that had fallen down
from the sides of the valley. I had been taken
this route, but returned alone another way.

On arriving at my room I was asked by my
fellow-worker, a young woman who lived in the
next house, if I had been molested on the way.
I replied, "No; why?" I was told that the
three men that had tried to kill the chief I had
been attending were hiding between the rocks
on the way, with the intention of shooting me
on my return. They were very angry because
I had helped restore the wounded man to
health, hence their action ; but as I had taken
the other road home I had escaped them.
That night I had gone to bed and was asleep
in my room all alone. About midnight I was
roused by a banging at the door. I called to
know what was wanted, because it was so un-
usual to be disturbed in this way. The an-
swer was, " Open the door or we will break it
in, quick." " Who are you, and what do you
want ? " I asked from inside, but I only got
the same reply as before. I got up, lit the

Q2 AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS

lamp, put on some clothes, and went and
opened the door. Without any formalities, in
walked three men, their faces covered with
handkerchiefs, with only their eyes visible.
They shut the door behind them and said to
me, "We are come to kill you." I walked up
to them, one at a time, pulled the covering off
their faces, and recognized them, saying, " You
are Bedr, you Mc-mood, and you Salamey,"
three of the cruellest and most bloodthirsty of
our tribe. They were rather surprised at my
action and that I knew them. I asked them
to sit down, stirred up the ashes on the hearth
in the middle of the floor, and soon had a fire
going. Whilst I was doing this and making
some tea I had an eye to them. They had
daggers and revolvers with them, the latter
fully charged, as they soon showed me. They
made me sit down with them and answer ques-
tions. " Why do you go to our enemies ? "
" Where was the man wounded ? " " How did
you treat him ? " " Will he recover ? " and such
like, all of which I answered. Then they went
on to tell me why they had tried to kill the
man, how they had waylaid him and shot him,
and how angry they were when they were told
I had gone to doctor him. They said they had
been waiting five days for me to return, and

AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS 93

had intended shooting me from behind the
rocks. Hearing I had returned, they came to
the city, and without any one knowing had
come to me in the night with the intention of
murdering me. " In the morning you will be
found dead here; we shall be away from the
city before then, and no one will know who
killed you," they said. I told them I was not
afraid of being killed, but if no one was near
to see them, God would know all about it, as
He knew everything. They showed me their
daggers and pistols, and I told them to be
quick or to go and leave me. They were slow
to act and talked among themselves in an un-
dertone. At last they said, " If you will give
us each ten mejedies, — about ten dollars, — we
will do you no harm." I soon told them I
should do nothing of the kind. They lowered
the amount, and finding I still refused they be-
gan to threaten. I kept firm, and again they
held a conference, the result of which was a
demand to be shown the pictures — the magic
lantern. They had heard about it and must
have a show to themselves. I told them of the
trouble to fix up the sheet and lantern, but
they insisted, so I had to get it out, fix it up,
and give them an exhibition. They were
highly pleased with the pictures, all Scripture

94 AT THE MERCY Of MURDERERS

subjects, and what I had to say about them,
working in all the gospel I could. Having
seen about twenty, they asked to be shown " the
one that boils," meaning the chromotrope. I
put it in and set it turning, in and out, out and
in, and they were delighted. One of them, on
turning round to see the lantern, noticed that
the day was breaking and told the other two
of it, and they said they must be off or they
would be seen leaving and have to give an
account of themselves and their being out so
early. They asked me to promise them I
would never again go to their enemies, but I
refused. Then they asked me to give my
word that I would not tell any one of their
doings that night, and to please them I prom-
ised, and away they went, leaving me to ponder
over the night's doings and the wonderful way
I had been protected and upheld.

On another occasion I was sitting with two
of our lady workers in the living room after our
day's work was over, when all at once, without
any warning, the door burst open and in came
a young man named Fellah, the only son of his
father, a much-respected chief. This young
man was well known for his daring and bold-
ness, and so had taken the liberty to enter a
house in which were two single women, and

BEDOUIN WOMEN, DAUGHTERS OF THE DESERT

These three women faithfully represent millions who live in tents in the solitude of the
desert. Their large garment is of blue cotton and made in one piece. Few women wear
shoes or even sandals, and most of them smoke. They have many superstitions about
the " evil eye," which makes it very difficult to secure pictures of them. It was quite a favor
for Mr. Forder to be allowed to photograph these women.

AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS 95

that at night. I met him before he got far in
and ordered him to leave, but he only laughed
at me and refused. Finding he was obstinate,
I took him by the back of the neck, and before
he knew it I had him not only outside the
house, but beyond the outer gate. To be
treated thus hurt his dignity, and he com-
menced to shout and threaten all kinds of
things that he would do to me. Hearing the
noise, our landlord's son came over from their
room near by, and tried to pacify the young
man, telling him how different our customs
were from theirs and such like. But his anger
was roused ; he hurried to a house near by and
came back with a rifle. Placing a loaded car-
tridge in it, and one in the hand of the land-
lord's son as a confirmation of what he said,
— a custom among them, — he swore that he
would not sleep or eat until he had killed me.
He called on Abraham, Mohammed, and others
to witness the oath he had taken. Meanwhile
others had come, attracted by the shouting and
much talking. I was inside with the ladies, not
knowing then all that was going on outside.
In due time we had prayers, and I went out to
go over to my own room ; the young fellow had
taken up his position on my roof, but had not
seen me cross over to my room. I went to

96 AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS

bed, but was kept in mind of his presence on
the roof by the constant thump from the butt
end of his gun. He kept his watch all night,
and then day came. The people, as they
gathered for medicine, were much concerned
for me when they heard the story. I got up,
had my breakfast, and much against the wishes
of the natives commenced the medical work.
The young man on the roof was shouting
out threats against me, accompanied by awful
curses ; I bore it as long as I could and then
went out, up on to the roof, and straight up to
him. " If you want me, here I am ; do what you
wish, or else be off away from here," I said to
him. He was cowed and said nothing. I in-
sisted on him getting off the roof and leaving
me to my work ; after some hesitation he went
down and I followed him, and as he went
away he said, " I will give you a bullet when I
meet you out alone." Some of the leading men
of the city appeased him for the time by a little
raw coffee, but he stuck to his determination
to harm me, because of his vow and the car-
tridge he had given as a pledge, and which he
would not take back, although urged to do so.
The next time I saw that young man was under
very different and sad circumstances which it
may be of interest to relate, thus proving how

AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS 97

true the Arab's proverb, " Mountain may never
meet mountain, but man may meet man," teach-
ing that it is best on separating to be friends
and not foes.

There had been a wedding at an encamp-
ment some four hours' ride north of Kerak, and
all the young chiefs of the tribe had been
called to join in the festivities. As is customary,
the young men played on their horses, racing
and wrestling, the horses seeming to enjoy it as
much as the riders. A sham fight was in pro-
cess when my troublesome friend of some
weeks before galloped his horse across the
course of a bullet shot from a rifle, the missile
entering the windpipe on one side and coming
out on the other. He was carried to a tent, and
a horseman despatched for me, the name of
the wounded man being kept secret. On
arriving at the encampment, I was taken to
the tent, to find it was Fellah that was down
and needed attention. His first words, spoken
with difficulty, were, " How could you come to
me after the way I served you ? " My answer
was in their own style, " What's past is past and
what's dead is dead," equivalent to " Let by-
gones be bygones." I did my best for him, stay-
ing five days and nights. One afternoon he
was leaning on my arm, and I was feeding him

98 AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS

with some milk, when suddenly he fell back
dead on my breast. Great was the consterna-
tion among the crowd of sympathizers in that
tent; the women screeched and rent their
clothes, the immediate relatives falling on the
body, hugging and kissing it, whilst the men
wrung their hands in agony or cut off their hair
as a sign of their great grief.

At once the cry of " Revenge ! " was raised ;
the men jumped up, seized their rifles, and,
mounting their horses, were soon galloping in
the direction of the camp in which the young
man was from whose rifle that bullet had come
causing the death of the chief's son. Accidents
are not recognized among the Arabs; life had
been taken, and the custom requires a life in
return. I took the opportunity to ride away
on the only horse left, and was first to tell the
sad news in the city. Said one man to me
that evening, " Fellah swore to give you a
bullet, but got one himself ; it is the work of
God ; every one must eat his fate."

Next morning the body was brought in to
be buried, and the sight was one I shall never
forget.

To complete this incident I must tell that
the supposed murderer saw the armed horse-
men coming toward the camp, guessed what

AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS 99

had happened, and claimed the protection of
the chief of the encampment, and so saved
his life, although afterward the penalty of two
years' exile and the loss of all his belongings
was put upon him, the dead man's relatives
getting all the property that had been forfeited
as the price of their lost son.

Another narrow escape came about in quite
another way, and under very different cir-
cumstances. I had been into Jerusalem, and
was returning to Kerak, but had to take the
route by Hebron and the south end of the
Dead Sea, one generally avoided for two rea-
sons, viz. the scarcity of water and the fear of
robbers, because the road via Jericho and
Medeba was possessed by a tribe of Arabs
unfriendly to any from Kerak. I had with me
three Arabs, one an old man named Salem, who
had travelled much with me and had always
proved faithful, and to whom on this occasion
I owed my life, not excluding of course an all-
seeing Providence.

We were going along the eastern shore of
the Dead Sea, and came to a tiny stream of
fresh water, where we determined to camp, as
the sun was about setting. The place was
very stony, and not such a one as we generally
choose, preferring, if possible, open ground, so

100 AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS

that anyone or anything can be seen approach
ing, but as there was no water ahead of us we
had to stay there or go thirsty. We had oui
supper, and put the nose-bags on the horses, but
noticed that they did not eat. Old Salem said
to me, " The animals are restless and cannot
eat their suppers." Time passed and still our
patient steeds remained supperless, but not
motionless. With their ears pricked up and
their heads well lifted, they were keeping a
sharp lookout ahead of them, first in one di'
rection and then in another, turning this way
and then another. Their behavior told my
experienced old Arab that somebody besides
ourselves was about, and the horses could see
them moving about, although it was dark.
This was causing their restlessness and ab-
stinence from their suppers. We all made up
our minds to sit and watch, but weary with a
long day's ride I soon fell asleep under the
cover of a great boulder. It was about mid-
night, and I was lying half awake and half
asleep, when almost together, within a few mo-
ments of each other, the horses whinnied, and
old Salem called to me, " Get up, quick." Up
I jumped, and on looking out I saw three men
running away as hard as they could go. They
had crept up to us under cover of the large

AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS IOI

stones, no doubt thinking we were all sleeping.
But the horses saw the nearest one, and gave
Salem the alarm. He saw the nearest man
standing over me with a huge stone in his
hands that any moment might have been
dropped on my head and so have killed me.
As I jumped up quickly, the stone missed me,
the men making off on rinding that they were
discovered.

After this the animals settled down and ate
their supper. Old Salem would not sleep, how-
ever, for, said he, " Just before dawn, when it
is darkest, and the robbers think we are weary
with watching, they may return, so we must
be prepared for them." Sure enough, they came
again at the expected time, but a good fire
gave warning that we were about, and at dawn
we loaded up and went on our way. We never
knew who the thieves were, or where they came
from or went to. We were thankful for the
escape from them, and our steeds had an extra
feed for the share they took in warning us of the
presence of an enemy. That same morning
we met a band of wild fellows that far outnum-
bered us and helped themselves to such things
as they fancied as they leisurely turned over
our belongings, leaving us lighter than they
found us, and me with a few bruises from

102 AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS

blows of heavy clubs because I objected to
their behavior.

The foregoing dangers and deliverances all
have been experienced on dry land, but one
yet remains to be told that took place on the
water — not the blue ocean of either the At-
lantic or Mediterranean, but on the historical
salt sea, or, as is better known, Dead Sea.
Our recollections, however, lead us to let go
the title " Dead," and substitute " Living." It
came about in the year 1895, if memory serves
me right. I had come in from Kerak to Je-
rusalem to take back my wife and four-months-
old baby. About that time a good-sized sail-
ing boat was going, as wind permitted, between
the nearest point to Jericho on the north and
Morab on the east. By this route the journey
to Kerak could be shortened by three days,
and was less fatiguing.

We found out the time fixed for the boat to
set sail, viz. sunset, and made arrangements
accordingly. Our heavy luggage was sent by
mules, and some Keraky were to meet the boat
on the eastern side and take us up to the city.
Our party was made up of two friends going
on a visit with us to Kerak, my wife, baby, and
myself. We reached the seashore in good
time, saw our few belongings put into the boat,

THE NORTH SHORES OF THE DEAD SEA

This shows the only boat on the Dead Sea. It was just back from a rougn trip on the lake
when the picture was taken. The foam on the beach shows with what force the sea conies
up on the stony beach.

ARABS ENJOYING A SOCIAL MEAL

Among the Arabs, food is served in one large dish. The chief invites his guests to sit
id and eat but will not join them; he counts it an honor to serve. In the absence of
spoons and forks, fingers have to serve every purpose.

AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS 103

and then we took up our places. The boat
was loaded with iron girders and timber for
the Government in Kerak. This was good
because of the buoyancy of the water. A
good breeze blew from the north, and we
sailed along merrily. All went well for five
hours; the moon rose and we knew we must
be nearing our goal. The wind had increased,
and we were going at a good speed. Our two
boatmen, like real Arabs, were both asleep
when they should have been most awake. All
of a sudden we stopped, the boat veered over
on one side, and the \vaves, now quite high,
came dashing over us, wetting us through and
through before we could recover ourselves.
Poor baby got a drenching as well as all the
others. The sudden stop roused the man at
the rudder, and we soon found we had run
sideways on a sand-bank. So fast were we
going along that the boat had cut deeply into
the sand and was immovable. It was about
11.15 and moonlight. The men tried to move
the boat by pushing her off, then we got -down
into the water, which was chest deep, and
pushed, but all to no purpose. We threw the
iron girders into the sea, then the timber, but
the boat stuck. Baby was crying for milk, so
had to be content with it cold ; no spirit stove

104 AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS

would remain lit a minute for the wind and
water. Meanwhile the boat was getting more
and more on one side, so we perched up on
the side highest from the water. We guessed
we were near the land because reeds were near
by. I got down into the water and set out
landwards, but soon found that mud was abun-
dant and the water deeper as I neared the reeds,
so I returned to the boat to await the day-
break. We shouted ourselves hoarse, hoping
to attract the attention of any Arabs that might
be near, but it was no use. Then our two boat-
men, after many attempts and appeals to Abra-
ham and Mohammed for help, said they would
swim off and try and get help. So away they
went, leaving us alone until past daybreak.
Then we saw them away on the shore, and
they came off to us, followed by our kind
Arabs that had been waiting for us according
to our orders. They had heard the shouting
in the night, but thought it was the Arabs
near by keeping the wild pigs off the grain
and gardens, so had not responded. I made
one trip to land, walking through the sea and
mud for about three hundred yards, then, hav-
ing an idea of the way, returned to the boat,
took the baby, and carried him to land, held
high up out of the water. He enjoyed the

AT THE MERCY OF MURDERERS 105

trip more than I did, and was safely deposited
with an Arab on shore whilst I returned to
the wreck. My wife and our lady friend had
been obliged to take to the water, their skirts
making their progress difficult and slow, but
with the aid of our willing Arabs at last
reached the land and took shelter in the tent
that was pitched a short distance away. One
or two more returns to the boat brought our
belongings to land, all spoilt by the salt water
of that "lively sea." The boat remained fast
for some time, but at last was set free by the
combined strength of the Arabs of the district.
Our men had the good sense to have ready for
us a large pot of chicken broth, with plenty of
rice in it, and a good kettle of tea, of which we
imbibed a good quantity. Clothes were washed
in a stream of fresh water near by. Whilst this
was in process, the ladies were isolated in the
tent until their garments had dried sufficiently
to be donned. I stalked around in a pair of
my friend's trousers whilst my own were drying.
Fortunately the place of landing was in the
plains, and so very warm, or the consequences
to our health might have been serious after
the night's exposure to wind and waves. We
were thankful to have escaped with our lives,
although we lost nearly everything else.

CHAPTER XI

UNLOOKED-FOR CHANGES, AND MORE
PERSECUTIONS

THE first three years of my life among the
Arabs passed all too quickly. Although
there had been discouragements, opposition,
and bereavements, these had been counteracted
by advance, the breaking down of prejudice, and
the making of many and fast friends. Every-
thing seemed to be going well and promised
fair for the future.

During one of my brief visits to Jerusalem
I met my second wife. She had been in the
land some years and was already acquainted
with the language. Our aims were one, — the
salvation of the people. She returned with me
to Moab, where she lived until circumstances
compelled us to retire to Jerusalem. Much of
what is recorded in these pages is due to her
readiness to remain at home, and her willing-
ness for me to go into regions unknown so
that the way of the Lord might be prepared
in the desert. Let not a one-sided thanks-
giving or admiration be any result of the read-

106

MRS. FORDER, THE WIFE OF THE AUTHOR

Mrs. Forder is a Scotchwoman who has lived in the Orient for many years. She speaks
the Arabic language, and is much beloved by the Arabs where she is known to them. Ten
years ago her name was changed by the Arabs to " Umm Jerius," i. e., mother of George,
in honor of her first child whose name was George. She is in full sympathy with the work
being done by her husband among the Arabs.

UXLOOKED-FOR CHANGES 107

ing of this volume, but let all remember that
" as his part is that goeth down to the battle, so
shall his part be that tarrieth by the stuff."
Staying home without news for weeks and
months is more difficult to endure than the
actual being away, the anxiety and suspense
sometimes being increased by rumors of rob-
bery and even murder.

Progress had been made with new buildings
which were the admiration and wonder of the
Kerak people ; school, medical, and evangelistic
work were all going on in regular order and
with an encouraging measure of success. One
day we heard rumors of the coming of a Turk-
ish army to put our district under control, es-
tablish a civil capital, and place a garrison in
the very city in which we were living. We
were saddened by the news, because we knew
that the incoming of the Turk would mean
opposition and hindrance to our work, also
oppression, heavy taxation, and bloodshed for
the natives. We were not long in seeing and
experiencing all these come about.

A few weeks after the rumor several thou-
sand troops camped on the plains opposite our
mountain home. Field cannon were mounted
on the highest hills overlooking the city, and
every plan arranged to take the place. The

108 UNLOOKED-FOR CHANGES

people were alarmed ; women and children fled
to the encampments or the mountains on the
west side of Kerak toward the Dead Sea. The
men prepared to defend their city and homes
and meet the unwelcome enemy as soon as they
attempted to enter the place. Warning was
sent us that we had better leave at once, but
we preferred to stay by our many friends, be-
lieving that they would need our services before
very long. We were not mistaken, for as soon
as the enemy had gained an entrance into the
city they were turned loose on the helpless
people, and many of them were shot dead, or
wounded, because they defended their homes
and women from the intrusion and insults of
the soldiery.

For a week we were besieged ; every day the
troops tried to scale the steep sides of that
Moabitish town. They were repulsed and
turned back by the huge stones rolled down
from above by the natives and by the bullets
of those possessing rifles. At length, through
bribery and the promise of large money and
costly presents, the chiefs of Moab allowed the
wily Turk to enter, believing him when he
said, " We will only stay three months." With
bullets whizzing over our heads every hour of
the day, cannons facing us from the hilltops,

UNLOOKED-FOR CHANGES 109

and an excited, fanatical army eager to take
possession, we entered into the experience of
the Psalmist under like circumstances. " The
Lord is my light and my salvation; whom shall
I fear? The Lord is the strength of my life,
of whom shall I be afraid? . . . Though an
host should encamp against me, my heart shall
not fear; though war should rise against me, in
this will I be confident."

The day the Turkish army entered Kerak
will long live in our memory. It was in No-
vember, 1893, and from that time on for another
three years obstruction, opposition, and humilia-
tion at length led to our separation from our
hardly won Arab friends and the land which
had become ours by adoption and, as the Arabs
often reminded us, by reason of my dead having
been buried in it.

The man who had been appointed civil gov-
ernor of the new district was one who had
been a leader in the massacres in Armenia,
and because of his successes in those parts
had been promoted to this important post.
He took up his abode in the Greek priest's
house, and turned the boys' school into a court-
house. The day after his arrival he requested
our presence, and informed me that from that
time on our school and medical work must

510 UNLOOKED-FOR CHANGES

cease. Said he, " You have the favor and
hearts of all these people, and now that I have
come for the Sultan of Turkey you must leave.
If I cannot wean the people away from you, I
will separate you by force and persecution."

Soldiers were placed around our premises to
keep the people from coming to us, and if by
any means some did reach our doors and were
caught going away, they were arrested, put into
prison, and heavily fined. The chiefs protested
to the governor, but to no purpose. They
argued thus with him, " You have deprived us
of the help our friends gave us when sick or
wounded, the schools in which our children
were being taught you have closed, our best
friend you forbid us to visit, and you give us
nothing to replace what the English were giv-
ing us."

The men working on the new buildings
under my supervision were again and again
driven off the work by the soldiers, who made
my innocent laborers' backs smart with the
lashes of heavy whips. Time after time I faced
that governor, demanding from him the return
of my tools and the liberty for men to work for
me. Again and again he told me, " If you
were an Arab, or one of our own subjects, I
would have had you killed long ago, for no one

UNLOOKED-FOR CHANGES III

has ever spoken to or treated me as you
have."

On every occasion he had to yield to my
demands, but not until after many stormy inter-
views which needed grace, patience, and wisdom.

I well remember one occasion when I made
this despot yield to my demands. I received
word one morning that my best man, " Old
Faithful " I called him, had been put into
prison without any apparent cause. His old
father appealed to me to get him released, assur-
ing me that there was no reason why his son
and my friend should be imprisoned. I went
at once to the governor and asked why the
man had been arrested and thrown into prison.
He told me because the man had said he would
become a Christian, also because he would per-
sist in coming to our house to supply us with
eggs and milk. Both these statements were
false, and had been fixed up by some enemy
of my " Old Faithful." I told the governor
the charges were untrue, that I had not seen
the man for quite a month, and that I wanted
him released at once. The hard-hearted, wily
Turk laughed a contemptuous laugh, and
said, " You have the hearts of all these Arabs ;
every day before me they are praising you, say-
ing that you are their father. I have tried to

112 UNLOOKED-FOR CHANGES

wean these people away from you, but now I
will force them to leave you, and this man now
in prison will be an example and a warning to
the others, for I will treat all thus, and will not
rest until you are compelled by me to leave
this land. I will not release the man ; let him
remain in the prison a time, so that others may
be afraid to disobey my commands."

Before a crowd of wondering Arabs, chiefs,
and soldiers, I stood my ground and persisted,
and finding that he would not yield, I finally
said, " I will not leave your room in which I now
sit until that man is released and given over to
me." Hour after hour I sat there ; time after
time he told me to go, it was useless to wait.
Supper time came, and I was still there ; bed-
time came, and I was prepared to pass the night
there. That official had to learn that my word
on such an occasion could not be changed ; one
of us had to yield and that one was not to be
the writer. It was nearly ten o'clock, and the
governor wished to retire, but could not go
away and leave me alone in his room. A last
persuasion and another refusal resulted in a
command to a soldier to have the man set free.
I demanded that he be brought from the prison
and delivered to me so that we might go away
together. From the prison in the old Moabit-

UNLOOKED-FOR CHANGES 113

ish fortress near by, my Arab friend was
brought, and together we left the official room
of that governor, who was none too pleased that
right had won and he had been humiliated
before the people.

Does the reader wonder that I have many
friends in Arab lands ? Few indeed have been
the friends poor Ishmael has ever had, and they,
like people in other lands, appreciate and re-
spond to kindness. Next morning I was sum-
moned before the angry official, who addressed
me thus, " Mr. Forder, if your Society are not
proud of you, they ought to be ; no man ever
faced me as you have. I am sorry you are an
Englishman, for you would make such a good
Turk. Yesterday you gained your victory, but I
will gain one yet, for I will not rest until I have
got you out of this place."

Then followed a time of trial, humiliation,
persecution, and suspense that few have had
to endure. That governor laid false charges
against me, to my Society and to our consul in
Damascus. Soldiers followed my wife and
myself wherever we went ; from early morning
until late at night our gates were guarded, and
no one was allowed to come to us with food or
other things to sell. Messages were sent us
again and again that unless we were gone in

114 UNLOOKED-FOR CHANGES

so many hours soldiers would be sent to
us out and break up our home. To ail this
we gave no heed ; we simply " committed our
way to the Lord, trusted also in him, and he
brought it to pass."

It would take a volume to detail all that we
endured for nearly three years at the hand of
that Turkish governor, but it must remain
untold in these pages. It sufficeth to say that
he went to such extremes that he overreached
himself, and at last, through our complaints and
the demands of an energetic consul in Damas-
cus, he was removed and degraded, much to
the delight of the natives and many of the
minor officials.

All through this time of opposition and dis-
couragement I forged ahead with the new
buildings, so that by the time the oppressor
was removed we had ready for our work five
roomy houses, all above ground, with windows,
air-shafts, and paved floors, also a dispensary,
consulting room, and large assembly hall, in
which the people now gather to listen to the
gospel message before being treated by the
medical missionary.

With the going of the governor the opposi-
tion and hard measures ceased, and better times
began to dawn. The coming of the Turk to

UNLOOKED-FOR CHANGES 115

Moab was not only a time of disaster for our
work, but also for the Arabs. Two calamities
followed the advent of the troops, viz. the
coming of the locusts, which resulted in a time
of semi-famine throughout the land. Midst
times of doubt and perplexity amusing inci-
dents occurred to break the monotony of the
situation.

On one occasion we had invited a lot of
women and children to partake of a warm meal.
They gladly responded to the invitation in spite
of the orders of the governor forbidding any
to enter our premises. As they were eating, a
furious knocking at the locked door was heard.
Those outside were soldiers, who had been sent
to take to prison the women and children who
were satisfying the demands of hunger at our
expense. I refused admittance to the soldiers,
so they decided to await the dismissal of the
frightened and helpless people. The feast
over, I helped the women and children to leave
by means of a ladder leading to our flat roofs.
Many got away without being detected, but
somehow the last ones were seen getting away,
followed by the soldiers, and stopped. The
order to line up and walk to prison was not
obeyed by the daughters of Moab. Instead,
they sat down in the street and mockingly told

Il6 UNLOOKED-FOR CHANGES

the soldiers, " If you want us in prison, carry
us there, otherwise we shall not get there."
Whilst this street scene was being enacted,
much to the delight of even the sedate Arab,
I was having a stormy interview with the gov-
ernor in his room, and sarcastically taunting
him with some such words as these, " The
government of the Sultan was becoming bad
indeed, when its representatives had nothing
better to do than to imprison women and chil-
dren for appeasing their hunger. Had it come
to prisons for women in a land and empire
where they were considered more or less free
from interference by men ? " Such arguments
prevailed, and orders were sent that the women
and children were to be released and not mo-
lested again.

Such trials and experiences endured for any
time unknowingly have their effect upon hu-
man nature; we felt the long strain severely and
were glad when it was relaxed. No sooner,
however, was one term of difficulty over than
another, from a less expected quarter, came.

We had been supported for some time by
the Episcopal Church Missionary Society, with
whom we had worked amicably and acceptably,
when the question was raised concerning our
denominational standing. I had been trained

UNLOOKED-FOR CHANGES 117

and brought up in the Wesleyan Methodist
Church, and was now employed by the State
Church of England. Everything, except in
one point, was favorable to my continuance as
a missionary of that denomination ; the missing
qualification was that I had never been con-
firmed. Ritualistic and religious barriers ex-
cluded my being engaged as a missionary of
an Episcopal Society, so I had presented to
me the choice of two things: first, being con-
firmed and becoming a fully fledged Episco-
palian and remaining where I was ; and second,
that of retaining the beliefs and teaching of
my early days and conscience, and sever my
relation with the Society I was serving. The
temptation to hold on was strong, but con-
science prevailed ; refusing to become an Epis-
copalian practically meant commencing life
over again, but God gave me courage and grace
to stand by my convictions.

A few months later we left the people and
land, both of which we loved and were willing
to spend our lives for. The separation was a
hard one; the people never understood why we
left them for others to take our place. God
grant that they never may know of the jeal-
ousies that keep men bearing the name of
Christ from becoming one under that name!

Il8 UNLOOKED-FOR CHANGES

At dawn one morning we quietly left oui
mountain home in Moab, driven out not by the
semi-civilized Arab or the jealous, fanatical
Turk, but by those who put ceremonial require-
ments and sectarianism before the qualifications,
suitability, and willingness of those willing to
give their life for those still in the bondage and
darkness of heathendom or Islam. I left Kerak
knowing that I had done my best for every one
I had tried to serve, whether the Moabite in his
city or the nomad in the wilderness. It was at
least encouraging to know that those I was
leaving were sufficiently satisfied with the way
I had served them to give me the following
recommendation : —

" Mr. Archibald Forder has been engaged in
mission work at Kerak on the east of the Jor-
dan for five and a half years, three of which
have been spent in connection with the Church
Missionary Society. Mr. Forder is a very ear-
nest Christian and a most energetic worker, and
the present promising position of the mission
work at Kerak is due largely to his zeal and
enterprise under God.

" During the first two or three years that Mr.
Forder was at Kerak the work was specially
difficult and full of danger on account of the
wild and uncivilized state of the people- They

AN EASTERN CARAVANSARY

These temporary shelters are found in all Eastern cities. Man and beast may have shelter
and drink for about six cents a night. A fountain in the center of the inclosure yields
a constant supply of fresh water.

THE COFFEE MAKER

Coffee is the only beverage of the Arab. After the berries are roasted, they are pounded
in a large mortar. The chief always drinks first, then serves his guests. No milk or sugar
is added. A woman is never allowed to make coffee.

UNLOOKED-FOR CHANGES Iia

were at that time beyond the control of even
the Turkish Government, and every man did
what was right in his own eyes. The greatest
credit is due to Mr. Forder for the tact with
which he dealt with the people, which was used
by God to the opening of doors for the procla-
mation of the gospel in very many ways. \Ve
are all very sorry to lose Mr. Forder from our
mission band, but we trust and pray that the
Lord will speedily thrust him forth into other
work for Him, and own and bless him even
more than whilst he was at Kerak. Wherever
he may take up work, the C. M. S. Palestine
Mission will always regard him as one of their
number.

"J. R. LONGLEY HALL.

" Jerusalem, February 17 th, 1897.*'

Thus, for sectarian reasons only, was lost to
a difficult mission field well-tried, acclimatized,
experienced, and all-round good workers. But
larger possibilities were in the future, although
the means are still needed to adequately carry
them to a successful issue.

CHAPTER XII

INTO NEW REGIONS, AMONG SUPERSTITIOUS ZEALOTS

AFTER leaving Kerak we retired to Jerusa-
lem, and began to consider plans for the
future. We had before us some serious and
important questions to face and answer.

1. Should the Arab suffer for our leaving
Moab ?

2. Should the commands of our Lord about
"all the world" and "every creature" be
passed by heedlessly, with our knowledge of the
need of Arabia and its people ?

3. Ought we to allow the action of those we
had served to hinder us from going ahead to
win the Arabs for Christ ?

To all this there could be but one answer —
No. My desire was to go ahead with what I
had in the way of experience and my knowledge
of the language. Prayer and patience were
soon answered, and doors opened, and supplies
forthcoming, to enable me to penetrate new
regions and reach tribes and peoples never
before preached to. For a time unevangelized
districts within easy reach of Jerusalem claimed

120

INTO NEW REGIONS

my attention, and some account of the visits
made to these localities will occupy the space
given in this chapter.

Some may ask why I did not stay in Moab
and carry on an independent work among the
people I knew so well. That was considered,
but finally abandoned, because we felt, as did
many of our best friends, that an opposition
mission would cause questionings among the
simple people that would be difficult to answer,
and we would not have any work ruined by the
Arabs knowing that among Protestants sec-
tarian differences were sufficiently strong to
allow one section of the church to treat another
as they had me.

But to return to my story. I spent three
weeks among the villages around Hebron and
with the Arabs in the wilderness of Beersheba.

For the first time in my journeys among the
Arabs I used a tent; a friend gave me some
money toward it, and by doing a little work
myself in spare time I made up the sum needed
to buy it. I found it very useful and a great
boon. It was a place for the people to come
to, so I always had a congregation. Of course,
tenting in that land is a hard life — sleeping
on the ground, always under a hot sun, and no
companions save the Arabs. I often get weary

122 INTO NEW REGIONS

and long for a soft bed and the comforts of
home. But this is the only way to reach these
wandering people, so I am thankful for health
and strength and the language of the people.
I left Hebron one morning about nine, my
things on a mule and I on a donkey, the owner
of the animals walking. After about four hours'
jogging up hill and down vale, we came to a
large village named Dawimee. At the entrance
I asked where the guest-chamber was; being
shown, I went there and found a lot of men in
it. I sat down and was given some coffee ; no
one welcomed me, and I saw I had a hard lot
to deal with. After about an hour a chance
occurred to me to talk about sin, leading up to
Jesus. Presently a man said to me, " Do you
know you are preaching in our mosque, and
you a Christian, unclean, an infidel, and one of
the heathen; only a short time ago we killed
two Jews here and you are all alone ! " Then
they all got up and went out very angry. I was
thinking what I should do, when in came a man
and asked me to go to his house and stay the
night. " The people are very bad here," he said ;
so I went with hhn. He put me in a corner of
his yard, and as ir was sunset I had my supper.
After this my host and his uncle came and sat
down with me and I began to tell them of Jesus

INTO NEW REGIONS 123

the Saviour. For two hours they listened very
attentively, and asked many questions. On into
the night we talked. They said, "We never
knew these things before, now we have no
excuse ; we are glad you came; there is no way
but Jesus."

Next morning early I lay as they thought
asleep, I heard them telling others all I told
them, so my visit was not in vain. I left during
the morning, glad that some at least were will-
ing to hear me. After riding about two and a
half hours I saw a man in a large cave near the
road. As it was noon and very hot, I went to
him. He received me kindly, invited me in, and
gave me dinner, — bread, oil, and dirty water.
Soon after came two more men that stayed
with him in the cave. They were there har-
vesting. I began to talk with them about Jesus,
and for a long time they listened. Then one
said he could read. If I had a book to give
him, he would like one. So I gave him the
Gospel of Matthew, and left him reading it to
his companions. From here I reached an en-
campment of Arabs, put up my tent, and soon
had a crowd to stare at me, but, finding them
noisy, I shut down the door and went to the
guest-tent. During the day I had no chance of
speaking about Jesus. The people had some

124 INTO NEW REGIONS

visitors and had business to settle, so I got my
supper of bread, onions, and water, and then,
when all was quiet, went and sat down on the
ground in the middle of some twelve or four-
teen men. As it was full moon I could see
them all. On telling them I wanted to speak
with them, they told me to go on and talk.
When I got to the death of Jesus, a man
began to play a native fiddle, but was soon told
by the others to be quiet, as they wanted to
listen. So here again, far on into the night, I
talked with them, and they agreed that all I had
said was good and true.

Next day found me at Beersheba, the home
and favorite camping-ground of the patriarchs.
Thousands of Bedouin gather there from all
parts of the sandy desert, to draw water for
their numerous flocks of sheep and herds of
camels. Beersheba remains much the same
as it was in the days of Abraham. The seven
wells dug by the " father of the faithful " still
remain, and from some of them water is still
drawn. During my first visit there an old Arab,
sunburnt, half clad, and ignorant, pointed with
pride to one of the wells, and was delighted to
inform me that their father Abraham dug it
and watered his flocks from it. The old stones,
deeply grooved by the rubbing and wear of the

DRAWING WATER AT BEERSHEBA

A primitive windlass turned by a camel is used to draw water from the wells at Beersheba.
These erections are quite modern, although water has been drawn trom the wells for centu-
ries. All the woodwork is done by native carpenters.

HAGAR'S WELL IN THE DESERT OF BEERSHEBA

The Arabs believe that this is the well from which water was taken by Hagar to give drink
to Ishmael (Gen. ai: 19). The grooves in the stones have been worn by the ropes of the
shepherds as they draw water, and prove how ancient this well is. Ihe shaft is about
ten feet in diameter and one hundred feet deep.

INTO NEW REGIONS 12$

ropes, bore undisputable testimony to the an-
tiquity of these life-giving resorts in the dry
and desolate region known as the Negeb.
It was not difficult to engage the Arabs in
conversation about religion, and to those able
to read, Scriptures were disposed of with a
prayer that the reader might get help from it.
Ofttimes fanatics had to be faced and dealt
with, and many unpleasant incidents occurred
which might have resulted seriously but for an
overruling Providence that makes even the
wrath of man to praise Him. Not only was Beer-
sheba visited, but farther into that dreary waste
I went. The story of the boy who became an
archer and dwelt in that same wilderness was
understood as never before, and the story made
doubly real and interesting when I stood by the
open well in the desert and from a Bedouin
shepherd listened to the story of Ishmael and
his distressed mother Hagar, after whom the
well is still named. No books have taught
these ancient truths to the nomads of the des-
ert ; they have come down to them from genera-
tion to generation with little change. It was
near the well of Hagar that I was forbidden to
linger, lest my presence should dry up the
water. Guns and clubs were ready to be used
if I persisted in remaining too long.

126 INTO NEW REGIONS

Falling in with a good-hearted chief, I accom-
panied him to his encampment, consisting of
about two hundred houses of hair. His people
were a surly lot, and but for my host I would
have fared badly. I stayed a few days with
these dwellers in the wilderness of Beersheba
and then induced the chief to accompany me to
the historic site of Kadesh-Barnea. Some few
men, scared at the presence of a Westerner,
attempted to stop me, but my temporary
guardian had sufficient influence in those parts
to conduct me safely to the oasis so closely
connected with the wanderings of the Israel-
ites. My presence at old Kadesh-Barnea was
resented and strongly objected to by the super-
stitious people I met there. Most of them
were shepherds, who feared the " evil eye " and
the coming into their parts of any with some
mysterious qualification that would enable them
to cause the springs to dry up and stop the
earth from yielding her produce. Rifles were
loaded as a warning to me if I attempted any of
my mesmeric performances ; but there was no
occasion for their use, as my actions did not call
for anything unusual. A drop of cold tea
emptied out of my flask on to the ground near
a spring caused much suspicion and excite-
ment, for surely I was attempting to stop the

INTO NEW REGIONS 127

flow of the water that meant so much to those
ignorant, isolated sons of the desert. Abuse
was freely and liberally showered upon my Arab
friend, and he deemed it wise to depart and
leave his fanatical neighbors to await any dis-
aster that might follow our visit. Strange it
seemed to the wanderer that no ill effects re-
sulted from my advent, either to spring, flock,
or individual, and on return visits a more hos-
pitable reception has been given me.

Not only did the country of the patriarchs
receive attention from me, but also those parts
south of Moab, terminating in the rock-hewn
city of Petra, with its magnificent ravines and
wonderful excavations, all tinted by nature in
every conceivable shade and pattern. Few
have penetrated these recesses. The wild na-
ture of the Bedouin and the absence of any
human help in case of need debar most people
from going to this ancient, rock-hewn city, which
is full of historic interest and fascination. My
knowledge of the land and people has enabled
me to pay many visits there with good results.

On my first visit I learned from an excited
and fanatical lot of zealots that I was on ground
jealously guarded by religious and sacred mem-
ory and instinct, and that the presence of the
Christian was unwelcome and undesirable.

128 INTO NEW REGIONS

By careful and diplomatic investigation I
learned from the Arabs of Petra that on the
summit of Mount Hor near by they had what
they called the Tomb of Aaron. By careful
drawing out I learned from them the history,
pedigree, and pathetic closing scene connected
with the first High Priest of Israel. After
hearing them, I read them from the Bible the
account of Aaron, dying on Mount Hor in
Edom, as it is recorded in Numbers xx. 23-29.
They were deeply interested, and assured me
that the old tomb on the mountain was still
preserved and jealously guarded by them. I
expressed a desire to visit so interesting a place,
but at once religious zeal and fanaticism came
to the front, and I was assured that any at-
tempts on my part to scale the mount and
approach the tomb would cost me my life.

They were prepared to preserve the sanctity
of Aaron's last and long resting-place, even if
it meant killing me. No Christian had ever
approached the place, and the doing so would
arouse the wrath of the dead, and bring devas-
tation and disaster upon the whole region.
So argued and believed these zealots of Arabia
Petrea, and the speedy production of firearms
and weapons showed that any attempt to force
a visit might result in disaster. Reluctantly

INTO NEW REGIONS 129

I left those parts, a sad but wiser man. Since
then, experience and a better feeling and
knowledge of the Arabs there have enabled
me to ascend the rugged mount and see for
myself the ancient, and without doubt authentic,
tomb of the brother of Moses.

I count myself fortunate in being the first
to secure photographs of this interesting shrine,
so carefully guarded and long preserved in the
rocky recesses of Mount Seir.

Many journeys were made from time to
time to untouched parts, and very profitable
visits made with the natives in town, village,
or camp. More than one volume would be
necessary to chronicle my many experiences
during first visits to new places. Patience
and perseverance, however, generally wins in
the long run, and those once opposed and in-
clined to be unfriendly are now on my side.
Succeeding chapters will reveal still more
thrilling and providential experiences and de-
liverances than any yet recorded in these
pages. All that I have escaped I owe to a
covenant and promise keeping God, and the
realization of the presence of One who said,
" Lo, I am with you alway, even unto the end
of the world."

CHAPTER XIII

ARABIA THE DESERT OF THE SEA

MUCH moving about among the Arabs
in the wilderness and region south and
southeast of Jerusalem had made me inter-
ested in the unknown beyond. From an occa-
sional visitor to some camp or town I would
hear of the cities, towns, and encampments of
Arabia, across the sandy plains that I had so
often looked on during my stay in Moab. As
I considered the vast expanse southeast of
Jerusalem, the desire grew upon me to pene-
trate the desert, and find out what the possibil-
ities were for one who ventured into those
regions, openly avowing himself a Christian.
The few works on Arabia, written by men
like Palgrave, Doughty, or Burton, did not
promise a good time to any who went among
the Arabians. I was encouraged to go ahead
by people interested in mission work in needy
fields, and so prepared to go, and if possible
reach the capital of the peninsula, a city named

Hayel, and have an interview with the inde-

130

ARABIA THE DESERT OF THE SEA 131

pendent ruler of that land, Abdul-Azeez-ibn
Rasheed.

I propose in this chapter giving a short
account of the land I was then preparing to
enter, so that a good understanding of its loca-
tion, history, and condition may be gained by
the reader.

Arabia. Its Location

The great peninsula known in these days
as Arabia is one of the oldest known parts of
the earth. Long before the sons of Jacob
went down into Egypt, the sons of Ishmael had
settled in the land Providence had assigned
them. The boundaries of Arabia are out-
lined as early in the Bible as Genesis, xxv. 18.
There is no doubt that many centuries ago
Palestine, Syria, and the Sinaitic Peninsula were
important parts of Arabia. Isaiah speaks of
it as the "desert of the sea" (xxi. i), and when
one considers it a land largely desert, almost
entirely surrounded by water, we conclude that
the ancient seer was not far wrong in his desig-
nation of the land. Arabia is between Egypt
and Persia, to put it widely, also between India
and Europe. It has a sea-coast of about four
thousand miles.

Its boundaries are: on the east, the Per-
sian Gulf and the Gulf of Oman; the south-

132 ARABIA THE DESERT OF THE SEA

ern coast is washed by the Indian Ocean ; the
Red Sea and the Gulf of Akaba form the
western boundary, whilst an undefined desert
on the north leaves us in uncertainty as to the
exact limit in that direction. Arabia covers an
area of over one million square miles ; the pen-
insula is about one thousand miles long and
about seven hundred broad. It is four times
the size of France, and larger than the United
States east of the Mississippi River.

Divisions

Arabia is divided into three parts, viz. Ara-
bia Felix at the southwest section of the coun-
try ; Arabia Petrea at the northwest end ; and
Arabia Deserta, the great interior deserts and
high lands. These three main divisions are
divided into districts, and known as Yemen,
including Hadramaut, Oman, Nejran, and some
minor places ; El Hejaz on the west coast,
which includes in its borders the two sacred
cities of the Mohammedans — Mecca, the birth-
place of their prophet, and Medina, the place
where he died and was buried ; Nejd, the great
centre, reaching far north and east, thus losing
itself in the districts of Aragand Hassa ; and
Jebel Shomer on the Syrian border, which is
really a part of Nejd.

PHOTOGRAPH BY A. FO10EK

A SECTION OF THE SIK (RAVINE), ARABIA PETREA

Arabia Petrea is ten days' journey south of Jerusalem, and famous for the wonderful rock-
hewn city of Petra. This city is entered through a long ravine called by the Arabs " The
Sik." The rock on either side is of many colors, and in places covered by ferns and creepers.
The gorge is about a mile long and terminates in front of a magnificent rock-hewn temple
(see page 286).

ARABIA THE DESERT OF THE SEA 133

Principal Cities

In Yemen are Sana the capital, Hodeida the
principal port, and many smaller towns, but none
of importance. Aden cannot properly be called
a city, although a considerable place. In reality
it is a fortress that guards the way to India.
In Hejaz the principal cities are Mecca and
Medina, also layf, not far distant from Mecca.
The port of Hejaz is Jeddah, and Yambo is
used during certain seasons of the year. Nejd
has for its capital Hayel. Riad, Aneeza, Bo-
reida, and Dooreeyah are large centres of popu-
lation tributary to and included in Nejd. Jebel
Shomer has only two places of importance, El-
Jowf and Sakkaka, both under the government
of Nejd. Arag has many towns and cities, of
which Baghdad is the most important. Kuweit,
Kateef, and H of oof keep up the prestige of
Hassa. In all these divisions and districts
towns and villages innumerable are found, but
to enumerate them would be beyond the scope
of this book.

Governmental Control and Influence

Three powers control the affairs and move-
ments in Arabia. Nearly all of Yemen, Hejaz,
Hassa, and Arag is under Turkish government

134 ARABIA THE DESERT OF THE SEA

and control, as is the eastern half of the Sinaitic
peninsula. The coast of the Persian Gulf and
a goodly track of country around Aden are con-
trolled by the British ; Nejd, the great interior,
has its own ruler, who is independent of any
of the great powers, even its neighbor, Turkey.
In spite of many attempts to gain Nejd for
Egypt and even Turkey, that great table-land
still remains free and independent. The time
may not be far distant when a more aggressive
and enlightened government may control the
peninsula, and use it as a bridge to join East
and West and reduce the distance and time
between them. What or who that power will
be, remains to be seen.

Population and Language

In a country so little known as Arabia, and
where no census is ever taken, it is very diffi-
cult to even estimate the population. Various
statements have been made from time to time
during the last century by those who ventured
into the land. Some have estimated eight mil-
lions as the total of the inhabitants of Arabia,
others have put the number at fourteen millions.
It is generally agreed that eleven millions is a
fair estimate for the three great divisions that

ARABIA THE DESERT OF THE SEA 135

are included in the peninsula. Whatever the
number of millions in Arabia may be, we have
fulfilled in them the four times repeated prom-
ise concerning Ishmael, " He shall become a
great nation, that shall not be numbered for
multitude."

The language of the whole country is Ara-
bic, with varying dialects, pronunciations, and
vocabularies in different parts. The purest
Arabic spoken is heard in Nejd, and may be
accounted for by its isolation and non-contami-
nation by other languages. The Arabic lan-
guage is one of the hardest to acquire.

Before leaving for the field the writer was
told by a lifelong Arabic scholar, " I have
studied Arabic for more than forty years, and
am only just beginning to understand it." Let
me quote Ion Keith Falconer, who, after pass-
ing the Semitic Languages Tripos at Cam-
bridge, and taking a special course in Arabic
at Leipzig, writes from Egypt, " I am getting
on in Arabic, but it is most appallingly hard."
Five years later he writes from Aden, " I am
learning to speak Arabic quite nicely, but it
will be long before I can deliver real dis-
courses." Progress in Arabic means years of
weary, ceaseless plodding and endless diligence.
Arabic for mission use is not picked up.

136 ARABIA THE DESERT OF THE SEA

Religion of Arabia

Arabia has always been a land of religion.
At different periods in its history it has had
its followers of and adherents to Judaism, prim-
itive Christianity, heathendom, that permitted
the most cruel, degrading, and disgusting prac-
tices. Star, sun, and fire worshippers have all
advocated their beliefs, forms of worship, and
sacrifices in Arabia, but it remained for the
great enthusiast of the desert to gather the
people of the " desert of the sea " under one
system and lead them to a belief in One God
and Mohammed as his messenger.

For thirteen hundred years the Arabs of
Arabia have clung tenaciously to the teaching
of the Meccan youth, and are now known as
Moslems or Mohammedans.

In Yemen, Arag, and on the Persian Gulf,
thousands of Jews still reside, tolerated by the
Moslem because of the service, plunder, and
use they can extort from them from time to
time. In Arabia the two branches of the de-
scendants of Abraham have no love or even
respect for each other, although they adore
and pride themselves on their patriarchal an-
cestry. In another chapter the present-day
religion of the Arabs will be described.

ARABIA THE DESERT OF THE SEA 137

Products of Arabia

From such a land much cannot be expected
and yet different lines of steamers carry away
cargoes of things to be used in other lands.
Yemen exports enormous quantities of coffee,
hides, senna, and incense. From the Persian
Gulf shores and the hinterland dates go to all
parts of civilization. Nejd, the great unex-
plored interior, furnishes the British army in
India and Egypt with thousands of camels and
horses. The great centres of population in
Palestine, Syria, and even Egypt ofttimes have
their meat supplies replenished by tens of
thousands of sheep and goats bred and fed on
the mountains and in the oases of the great
peninsula.

Animals, Wild and Domestic

The nature of the country is not conducive
to anything elaborate in this way. Under wild
animals may be named wolf, wild boar, jackal,
hyena, fox, wild cow, about the size of a donkey,
gazelle, and a few rabbits. Domestic animals
are few, but important, by reason of their great
utility. They include the camel, horse, mule,
donkey, cow, sheep, and goat. The dog is
everywhere found, and in the desert is the

138 ARABIA THE DESERT OF THE SEA

protector and alarmist on the approach of
strangers. A few birds and reptiles exist ; none,
however, except the ostrich, of any importance.

Means of Transportation

Until quite recently railroads were unknown
in Arabia, and even now only one is in process
of construction. Under the Turkish govern-
ment, paid for by money from all parts of the
Mohammedan world, a railroad is being laid
down from Damascus to Mecca. If ever this
is completed, it will be a modern miracle, and
no doubt will go a long way toward opening
up the land and helping inquisitive travellers
to get into Mecca. Time alone will answer
the inquiry, " Will it be finished ? " In the
mountains, where water can be had once a day,
the mule, horse, or donkey may be hired for a
journey at a very low rate.

If the desert has to be crossed, and the scarc-
ity of water reckoned with, then the unsightly
but useful camel must be sought. With his
spongy hoof, long neck, quick eye, and abil-
ity to abstain for ten days from water, the
camel is well equipped for the desert journey.
Treated kindly and regularly fed, this patient
but much maligned animal will do excellent
service and carry its rider many hundreds of

ARABIA THE DESERT OF THE SEA 139

miles. Wheeled vehicles are practically un-
known in Arabia, except on the coast.

What is being done to evangelize Arabia?
Little, but thank God something. At Aden a
small mission ministers to the physical needs of
the Arabs, and in the dispensary the gospel is
faithfully preached every day. One man bears
the burden there. In the Persian Gulf, on the
Bahrein Islands, the Dutch Reformed Church
of America has its headquarters of the Arabian
mission. On the coast they have a few stations,
and they, like others, await the time when,
by reason of ample men, means, and support,
they will reach the interior. May God speed
the time ! These two efforts, with the writer's
own, is all that at present is being done for the
evangelization and redemption of Ishmael.

The writer has been the first as a Christian
missionary to go any distance into the country,
the account of which succeeding chapters will
detail. Arabia needs at once,

The Pioneer Missionary,
The Medical Missionary,
The Evangelizing Missionary,
The Teaching Missionary.

Would that some readers of these pages might
give their money to help the missionary claim

140 ARABIA THE DESERT OF THE SEA

Arabia for Christ, just as readily as the million-
naires of New York are doing to fit out expedi-
tions to find the North Pole and get credit to
their country for so doing !

Can we, whose souls are lighted
With wisdom from on high ;
Can we to men benighted
The lamp of life deny ?

Judging from Arabia, it seems we can.

CHAPTER XIV

ATTEMPTS TO ENTER ARABIA END IN CAPTURE,
PRISON, AND BROKEN BONES

THE previous chapter has introduced to
the reader the country that it was my
desire to enter and open up for future mission-
ary operations. As the desire grew on me the
difficulties seemed to accumulate, and those
most interested in my movements and work
strongly urged me not to attempt the journey
alone.

For many reasons a companion was advisable ;
volunteers were called for, and in response two
young men offered their services, each assured
in his mind that he was called to such an under-
taking and work. The funds necessary for such
a movement as was anticipated were all pro-
vided, and I waited for my companion. Months
passed, and one excuse after another was made
for delaying the start. Eventually both volun-
teers decided to abandon the project, one because
he preferred to remain with his newly married
wife, and the other lacked the faith and cour-

142 . ATTEMPT TO ENTER ARABIA

age to set out on such a hazardous journey
without the assurance of any human help.
Since then I have been thankful that the young
fellows did withdraw, for the following chapters
will tell what trials and hardships awaited us,
and the possibilities are that those volunteers
would have been a hindrance to me rather than
a help.

Now the question arose: should the proposal
be longer delayed, or should I set out alone ?
I decided that I would start alone, so set to
work and in a short time was ready. Scrip-
tures were packed, my own few necessities
arranged, drugs and clothing put in readiness
for immediate use, and lastly animals and men
hired to convey me to the edge of the desert
on the east of Jerusalem. The name of the
place I was bound for, as the first stage in my
journey, was Maan, a twin town on the northern
edge of the great Arabian desert. From Jeru-
salem it was about two hundred miles' distance,
and from that twin town I felt sure I could find
Bedouin, or join a caravan that would take me
over the first stretch of desert that would have
to be crossed.

Toward the end of 1899 I set out, in com-
pany with three men known to me. My cases
were loaded on two mules ; a third one was at

ATTEMPT TO ENTER ARABIA 143

my disposal for riding. All went well for four
days, and then my progress was put a stop to
in not an unexpected way. We had reached a
large Arab encampment which was pitched on
the eastern border of the vast plains of Moab.
The people had seen me before, in fact I had
treated some of them after a severe battle with
an hostile tribe, so I had a hearty welcome and
was treated in the best style as an honored
guest. Next morning I was up early and ready
for another stage of my journey, but the people
insisted on my spending the day with them in
their tents, so I consented to do so.

Some part of that day was passed in the guest-
tent, where many of the men assembled to talk
and drink coffee, but they courteously agreed
to listen as I read and spoke to them concern-
ing the Saviour and their need of His atone-
ment. I found a few men that were able to
read, and they accepted Scriptures and tracts
from me. Visiting in the tents gave opportu-
nity to speak with individuals or give a kind
word to some of the women busy about some of
their many duties.

The evening came, and supper had been
served and disposed of, and the making of the
after-supper coffee was about to begin, when
the sound of horses' hoofs on the hard earth,

144 ATTEMPT TO ENTER ARABIA

and the clanking of chains and arms, was heard,
The word " soldiers " came from many lips, and
hardly had they been uttered when six Turkish
cavalry in charge of an officer rode up in front
of the long black tent. They dismounted, tied
their horses to the tent ropes or stakes, and
came into the tent. " Where is that traveller
you have here ? " they asked in sharp tonest
and for a moment received no reply from my
astonished and frightened friends, and as I wag
dressed in native costume I was not discernible
among the many.

I rose and went toward the surly officer, tell
ing him that I was the one he was inquiring
for, and asked him what he wanted. He told me
that he had been sent to arrest me and take me
to the Turkish governor in a place about thirty
miles distant. It- was suggested by the chief
that the soldiers spend the night in the camp,
but they refused. They demanded animals for
myself and baggage, which were soon forthcom-
ing, and in a very few minutes we were off, I
in the midst of the soldiers, and the baggage
animals urged on by the Arabs, who unwillingly
had been forced to undertake this night march.
We rode for about three hours, during which
little was said. Once the surly official cursed
me and called me a " dog," because I had been

ATTEMPT TO ENTER ARABIA 145

the cause of them being sent post-haste to
capture me. That gentleman said little else
to me whilst in my company, for he got the
length of my tongue, and a reminder that it
was neither politic nor advisable for him to call
an Englishman a dog. He took the scolding
and the warning meekly, and I hope became a
wiser and more cautious man ; if nothing else,
he certainly became a quieter one.

About ten o'clock we saw the flames of camp-
fires and soon alighted at the guest-tent. The
people knew me and were sorry to see me a
prisoner. They were not slow to tell the
soldiers how I had helped them in times past,
one man giving visible proof by showing the
mark on his arm where he had been cut by a
spear and I had sewn it up. That night I
slept between my captors, and early next morn-
ing was roused and escorted on the journey.
After about four hours we reached the place
from whence the soldiers had come. They
took me to the government house and delivered
me to the official in charge there. He soon
found that he had no great catch in me, but
told me that I must return to Jerusalem under
escort, as his orders were that no traveller was
to pass that way without special permission
from Constantinople. I stayed a week in that

146 ATTEMPT TO ENTER ARABIA

Arab city, disposed of most of my books, and
then in charge of three soldiers was sent to
Jerusalem.

The first attempt had ended in seeming
failure, but some knowledge and experience had
been gained, which afterward came in useful.
My disappointment was His appointment, and
was for a wise purpose.

Early the next spring I set out again, this
time in company with a gentleman who for
geographical purposes and scientific research
was visiting Edom and going to Maan. As
he had government permission, we in due time
reached the place I had set out for on my
previous trip, but failed to reach. After a few
days in Maan my friend returned, leaving me
alone, with the hope of soon proceeding farther
east. Here too in Maan I found men that
knew me because of surgical or medical help
they had received from me years before when
in Kerak. No one knows the value of the
medical missionary as an agency for opening
up new lands ; this is another instance among
others from other lands. Let none lightly
esteem the work of the medical missionary.
A house was put at my disposal, and my few
belongings and Scriptures deposited therein.

My bed was a sack on the hard floor and my

ATTEMPT TO ENTER ARABIA 147

only covering at night my large native cloak.
For three days all went well ; in return for
Scriptures I received eggs, bread, and fruit, and
from a spring near by I drew my water for
drinking and in it washed my clothes. Late in
the afternoon of the third day a soldier appeared
at the door with an order for me to appear at
once before the local governor. He was one
who had taken a leading part in the massacre
of the Armenians some time before, and by the
Turkish government had been rewarded by
the post of governor at Maan. I went to him,
and he began to bully me and ordered me to
leave the place within an hour. I told him I
was within my rights in being there, and pre-
sented my Turkish passport. He ridiculed
that, and said, " as he was governor there he
could do as he liked." He then ordered that
I should be shut up in a small room, de-
tained till morning, and then sent away under
escort. So I was put in safe-keeping with two
others, and left through the night. At day-
break two soldiers appeared with a mule, on
which were loaded my things. I was ordered
to mount, two cakes of dry bread were given
me, and in charge of two mounted men I was
sent away from Maan, and so for the second time
turned my back on Arabia, more and more de-

148 ATTEMPT TO ENTER ARABIA

termined that I would not be discouraged by
these seeming failures.

Having tried the southern way twice and
failed on both occasions, I determined to try
the northern route and endeavor to join a
caravan going down into Arabia from Da-
mascus. After a few days at home I made an-
other start, this time in quite another direction.

On the fourth day out, as we were slowly
ascending a zigzag road, the horse in front of
mine suddenly commenced to kick, and before
I knew what had happened I was lying under
my horse on the steep mountain path, with my
left leg broken. I lay there for several hours
while a man went back to the nearest place
to secure a doctor. He arrived, and with my
leg tied to a stout pole I was carried back
to the doctor's house. The bone had been
badly splintered, and for weeks I lay without
any progress being made toward the use of
my leg. At length I was carried home to
Jerusalem and was then informed that the
limb would never be useable by reason of the
bone being badly set. The only hope for me
was to go into a hospital, have my leg opened,
the bone broken down, some taken out, and
the limb properly adjusted. I did as I was
Advised and in a few weeks was able to get

ATTEMPT TO ENTER ARABIA 149

about on crutches, later with the aid of a
stick, and then to my joy without any help at
all.

The entrance into Arabia was again delayed,
and sufficient had occurred to quench any
superficial enthusiasm, if such had ever existed,
which, however, in my case had not. These
delays and seeming failures only made me the
more desirous to carry out what I believed to
be a God-implanted desire in me. Some ad-
vised giving it up, for surely Providence was
against me. But I could not see my way clear
to do that, for was not the EVANGELIZATION of
ISHMAEL and the REDEMPTION of ARABIA at
stake, and neither of these could or can be
accomplished without seeming failures, disap-
pointments, and trials, all permitted by One too
wise to err and who

Moves in a mysterious way
His wonders to perform.

The capture and imprisonment may have
been disappointing and humiliating, and the
broken limb looked upon as a bad job, but out
of all came blessing in the way of experience,
information, larger faith, an extended vision,
and, to crown all, the success that many had
prayed for and believed in, although long

150 ATTEMPT TO ENTER ARABIA

delayed. The sweets were all the sweeter, and
the joys more appreciated, because of what had
been experienced before they were realized.
My next will tell of better days and my arrival
fln the edge of the desert.

A CHRISTIAN WOMAN OF MOAB

This woman is a resident of Kerak, the capital of Moab, and is a member of the chief
family there. Compare her with the three women opposite page i so and the difference
made by Christianity is very apparent. Her family is famous among the Arabs for their
hospitality, and this woman and her husband always entertain Mr. Forder during his visits
to their city, in return for services rendered during a long time of sickness and trouble.

CHAPTER XV

A FOURTH VENTURE BRINGS ME TO THE DESERT'S
EDGE

PREVIOUS failures had not discouraged
me sufficiently to make me give up the
idea of reaching the district and town of the
Jowf, the most important and largest town in
Northern Arabia. Although difficulties, dan-
gers, and hindrances had come and might still
be expected, to have anticipated them would
only have led to discouragement. Many of my
friends thought that God's time had come for
another attempt to be made to reach some part
of the regions beyond Moab and Edom. We
had hoped that a travelling companion would
even then have been forthcoming, but no vol-
unteer was on hand. Accordingly, with some
reluctance, our little community had to let me
go alone. On Thursday morning, the thirteenth
day of December, 1900, a few friends came
to our home in Jerusalem, and in prayer \ve
committed each other to God's keeping, not
knowing how long it would be before we

152 A FOURTH VENTURE

should thus gather round the Mercy-seat again.
Meanwhile two packhorses were being loaded
outside.

Four cases of Arabic Scriptures, tracts, and
leaflets, the most limited quantity of bare neces-
sities for the anticipated journey, and one man
to accompany me the first few days of my
journey made up the advance party and equip-
ment of the first missionary journey into Ara-
bia from the north.

A few friends went with me a little way, and
the time came to say the final " Good-by."
It was easy enough to bid farewell to the
grown-ups, but the last straw came from my
little four-year-old, when, on stooping down to
kiss him, he said, in his childish voice, " Will
you be long, Dadda? " It was a question that
none could answer. The future was only
known to God. Jumping on top of one of
the loads, I got away, wondering when I
should see those same kind and praying friends
again, and pondering, as I rode along, what
would be the outcome of this quiet, simple,
and inexpensive movement toward the land
and birthplace of the great antagonist of Chris-
tianity, the religion of Islam.

Calvary, outside the wall, and the Mount of
Olives, on the east, were soon left behind ; a last

CALVARY, OUTSIDE THE WALL
The hill on the left side is Golgotha, i. e., the place of a skull. On the right is the north
wall of Jerusalem. The road leads to Jericho, and was traversed by Mr. Fonier when
attempting to enter Arabia.

OLD TOWER AND CASTLE AT SULKHUD

These ancient remains of the stone age are on the edge of the desert, southeast of Damas-
cus. How Mr. Forder passed this place in the fog is told on page 1 64. Turkish obstruc-
tion hinders modern travelers from visiting these interesting ruins.

A FOURTH VENTURE 153

look at Jerusalem from the Bethany road, and
then the quiet little village itself was passed, with
its screaming children clamoring for "back-
sheesh." Down into the valley, and on as far
as the Good Samaritan's Inn, where a drink of
water was begged from the lonely occupant of
that venerable hostel, who ekes out an exis-
tence by selling a few drinks and providing
hasty cups of coffee for passers-by. Soon we
reached Jericho and were accommodated by the
kind-hearted keeper of the Jordan Hotel. Here
I met that cordial friend of travellers to the
Holy Land, the Hon. Selah Merill, U.S.
Consul at Jerusalem, who, with his two sisters,
were seeking a short time of rest and refresh-
ment in the cool and quiet of Jericho. Early
next morning we were off again and pursued
our way over the plains of Jordan, crossed the
swiftly flowing river, on over the plains, and up
into the mountains of Gilead. Toward even-
ing we came to a Circassian settlement at the
head of the Wady Seir. In vain we tried to
get a shelter from the threatening storm. But
the Circassian in those parts has no love for
the stranger, and we were driven from door to
door, until we decided to spend the night in
the open, even if it involved sitting up and
watching all night.

154 A FOURTH VENTURE

On the outskirts of the village we met a
woman who shouted at us in a very unceremo-
nious style, " Where are you going at this time
of the day ; it is now sunset, and the night is
near." We replied, " We have tried to find a
guest-room, but no place is open to us." Her
reply was, " My house is open to all comers ;
turn aside, and spend the night with us."

So, accepting her invitation and obeying her
order to follow her, we soon found ourselves
lodged in her limited space styled a house.
We soon found that we were not the only
occupants of those four walls. One corner
contained not only our two horses, but the
owner's possession in the way of live stock —
a mule, two donkeys, a yoke of oxen, some sheep
and goats, and the usual crowd of cocks and
hens. Add to this our host and hostess, four
small dirty children, and the circle was com-
plete. It is needless to make mention of the
innumerable company of jumpers, who, by their
persistent efforts at feasting, kept me reminded
of their presence.

Supper of bread and fried eggs was served,
apologies made for the absence of coffee, and
then we settled down for a talk, which I soon
turned into a religious direction. Introducing
the Book, we spent a time in reading and speak-

A FOURTH VENTURE 155

ing of Salvation, much to the interest, and, I
trust, lasting good, of these simple people.
Tired out, we lay on the mud floor, wrapped up
in our native cloaks, and tried to get rest, but it
was difficult. Early next morning we were
about. The good woman kindly offered us a
batch of bread, if we would wait whilst she
baked it, which we did.

The next two days led us to Es-Salt — Ra-
moth-Gilead — and Gerash, and on to Edrei in
Bashan. On the way I met some of my Kerak
friends returning from Damascus, where they
had been compelled to go, carrying goods for
the Turkish Government. The next day, our
sixth out, dawned cloudy and windy, but hop-
ing for fair weather, we set out. We had been
going for about four hours, with our faces set
against a cold east wind, when it began to rain,
then hail, and soon we were drenched. We
could see far ahead of us the only place of
shelter, that being the old town of Bosrah, one
of the giant cities of Bashan, with its massive
castle and interesting ruins. Our intention
had been to evade this place, and so escape the
possibilities of being captured by the Turkish
officials and sent home under escort, as on
former occasions in the south. However, as
the storm continued, we were forced to enter

156 A FOURTH VENTURE

the town. We decided to seek the shelter of
some guest-room in the quarter of the town
farthest away from the castle in which the
soldiers and officers were quartered. But man
proposes and God disposes, to show that He
can and will deliver. We entered the town on
the north side, clambering over ruined houses
and tumbled-down walls. We tried the first
house we came to, only to find the guest-room
full to overflowing. We walked up and down
the narrow, muddy streets, hoping to find
shelter, but the same answer came from every
door: "The sudden storm has filled the guest-
room; you must seek elsewhere." One man
told us he had just come from the house of the
governor, and that his large guest-room was
empty. We turned away again, and were lead-
ing our beasts along a narrow street, when we
came face to face with a man whose dress
proclaimed him an official. He stopped and
asked us who we were, where we were from,
where we were going, to all of which we gave
answers. On hearing we were looking for
shelter, he said, " Come with me ; I will find
you and your animals shelter at the governor's
house." We could say or do nothing, but just
obey and follow. In a few minutes we entered
the large courtyard of the head man, and stood

A FOURTH VENTURE 157

at the guest-room door. The servants — in the
absence of the master — greeted us, and carried
our belongings into the large room. Our horses
were taken off to the stable. A large wood
fire was burning on the floor in the middle of the
room. We sat down and warmed ourselves at
the fire, thankful for the shelter from the cold
and rain outside. The official that had brdught
us to the place had gone away and left us. I
engaged the few men in conversation, and was
glad to learn that the governor was not a
Turk, but an Arab and of local descent. This
was encouraging, as I might look for better
treatment from such a one than from an out-
sider. After a time the official returned, clad
in full uniform, with his sword on, as his sign
of authority. He said to me, " My business as
inspector is to examine all cases and goods that
are brought into this place; get up and open
your boxes, so that I may see what they con-
tain." My reply was short, but to him bitter,
"Never; this is no custom-house." He tried
first by persuasion, then by threats, to get me
to open up my baggage. But I had one reply —
" No." At last he said, " If you will not open
them, I will." I said, " Go ahead then, when
you like." I had told him what they contained,
but he said I lied. " You have guns and

158 A FOURTH VENTURE

der with which to arm the Arabs and get them
to rise against the Government," he said. He
was, however, too wise a man to touch my
belongings, and he again tried persuasion. At
last I said, " I will only open my goods for your
inspection on two conditions. First, that you
bring from the British Consul, also the Turkish
governor in Damascus — three days' journey
distant — written orders that I must do so; or,
secondly, that you accompany me to Damascus,
and, in the presence of the British Consul, if
he so orders, I will open for your inspection."
With this he went away, saying he was going
off to see the head man. After we had supped,
the head man came to sit with us. He asked
many questions, which I answered. He re-
quested my Turkish passport, which I pro-
duced. After examining it, he handed it back,
saying it was all right. He then told me that
according to orders from the Government no
Europeans were allowed in those parts, and he
had orders to send back under escort all that
came along. " But," he said, " as you seem to
be almost an Arab, and are going to Damascus,
may God go with you and give you peace."
He little knew or thought what a long time it
would be, or what a long way round I was
going to get to Damascus. We settled down

A FOURTH VENTURE 159

to a talk. I told him about the officious in-
spector, and he told me not to mind him.
With this he came in, and asked to be given
permission by the head man — my host — to
open my luggage. He got this reply: "To-
night this man is my guest, and as such you
must not touch him or his belongings whilst
under my roof. In the morning, when he
leaves me, you can do as you like, but under
my protection he or his must not be interfered
with ; we respect and protect all who come
under our roofs." With this he went away,
and I saw no more of him. I then introduced
the New Testament, and we sat until past ten
o'clock reading and speaking about Jesus. On
leaving me to go to his own apartments he
accepted a copy of the New Testament in
Arabic.

Next day dawned dull and misty. We de-
cided to make a start, hoping for finer weather.
When we got outside the town and turned our
faces east, in which direction we were going,
we could see in front of us the old, but very
prominent, castle of Sulkhud, away some twenty-
five miles distant. It was our wish to get be-
yond that place and spend the night in Orman,
a large Druze settlement, where I was to give
up my man and horses and let them return to

160 A FOURTH' VENTURE

Jerusalem. Our way lay over a wide, level
plain, the road, a small worn path, ofttimes dif-
ficult to follow because of the stony nature of
the ground. About noon we reached a little
village called El-Ghusm, through the midst of
which we had to pass. I saw some very old
and interesting doors here, solid slabs of basalt,
turning on hinges that were a part of the stone,
and let into sockets. I was fortunate in getting
a good picture of these stone doors. After leav-
ing this place the sky clouded over, and another
storm came on. The wind, rain, and hail made
it impossible for us to hold up our heads and look
ahead ; our horses turned against it and got off
the track, and soon we discovered we had
lost the way. My compass told me we were
going south instead of east. Turning in the
latter direction we tried again, but all to no
purpose. For hours we persevered, but seemed
to get no further on. A mist had risen, enough
to cover from our view the old castle by which
we had to pass. We were cold and wet, and
began to think we might have to spend the
night in the open, for evening was drawing on.
Presently, Mohammed, my man, saw smoke
rising away in the distance. How gladly we
hailed it, and jumping off our animals, led them
in the direction that it was to be seen. We

STONE DOORS, BASHAW

™!!! ^L63""8 remains, of the stone age are found east of the Jordan in the Druze country.

; they turn on pivots let into sockets in the upper arid
? clear as a bell. Some doors still in use are nine feet

A FOURTH VENTURE l6l

found it going up from a small hamlet of about
thirty houses. We rode up to the door of the
first one we came to, and received a hearty
" Welcome " from the men inside. We would
not have chosen the place for its beauty or
cleanliness, but because of our condition and
the elements, we were glad to avail ourselves
of the accommodation. Our things were carried
in and huddled up in a corner. We were offered
seats on some old mats round the fireplace.
Some fuel, in the shape of dried manure, was
brought, and an attempt at making a fire made,
but it resulted in more smoke than flame or
heat, and I was made to weep bitter tears from
smarting eyes.

Some bread was brought us, and a kind of
molasses called " dibs," in which we dipped the
former. Hunger made it welcome and enjoy-
able. On asking where we were, we found that
we were about two hours off the track, and
some two-and-a-half hours' ride from the castle.
My idea had been to pass the castle about dusk,
so as possibly to escape the notice of the Turk-
ish soldiery that were stationed there. But
again my plans were put away in order that I
might learn by experience that if I " commit
my way unto the Lord, trust also in Him, He
will bring it to pass."

162 A FOURTH VENTURE

This I learned on the morrow.

After supper the men of the hamlet in which
we were, and which was named Moonaythree,
gathered in to talk and sip coffee with us. My
business was soon disclosed, and I introduced
Bibles and gospels. Some of the men could
read, and, to my surprise, intelligently. They
bought some books from me, paying for them
in kind — dried figs, flour, or eggs. When
the time came for sleep, clad in another man's
clothes, — because my own were too wet and
were hung up to dry in the smoke, — I curled
up on the hard floor, and in spite of small
company, cold, and draughts was soon wrapped
in Nature's sweet restorer, " balmy sleep." The
reader will gather from these records that pio-
neer mission work is not the easiest or most
conducive to comfort. Let the reader of these
pages take up the privilege of daily remember-
ing at the Throne of Grace those who represent
the home-section of the Church by going into
new fields and among new peoples, so that all
may at least know of a Saviour from sin.
Next morning I was accosted by a man that
had been driven in by the storm and had
lodged in a house near by. He had heard
about the books I had, and wanted some to take
to his town some distance away northeast. To

A FOURTH VENTURE 163

him I disposed of eight copies — six Testaments
and two Bibles — also giving him an assortment
of tracts and leaflets. I heard about these some
months later on, that they were well received
and were being read with much interest. As
the morning was fine, we did not stay long ; so,
getting directions how to regain the track, we
started.

Coming up out of the depression in which
we had passed the night, we saw ahead of us
the old castle, our landmark of yesterday. I
was almost certain if only we could get beyond
the castle, no more hindrances from the Govern-
ment might be looked for, because beyond that
place they exerted very little power. But the
thing was to pass unobserved, and as the path
passed close under the castle it seemed impossi-
ble to get by unnoticed. We could see the
soldiers moving about on the castle walls, and
as we drew nearer the north side, the sentry on
guard was very prominent. My man quite lost
heart and made up his mind to be taken and
sent back. I tried to encourage him by re-
minding him how we had escaped detention at
Bosrah, and told him that God would help us.
When we got quite near to the hill leading up
to the castle, a thick fog came on, quite an un-
usual thing in those parts, and under cover of

1 64 A FOURTH VENTURE

the fog we rode on until we came to several
paths leading in different directions. Had it
been clear, I could easily have found my way,
having gone over the country once before.
We took the wrong path and soon lost the
way, but could not right ourselves because of
the dense fog. I said to Mohammed, " If only
the fog would open for a moment and let me
see the castle, I should know where we were
and how to steer." No sooner had I said the
words than the fog divided for a moment, but
sufficient for me to catch a glimpse of the
castle, which I recognized as the northeast
angle. Getting off my horse, I led him back
and soon found the track again. Through that
dense fog we walked, passed and Saluted the
sentry, but did not see him, on past the govern-
or's house, and out on to the open ground be-
yond the castle and town. Five minutes after
passing these the fog disappeared, the sun
shone brightly, and we saw behind us the castle
and house that sheltered the representatives of
a Government opposed to all Christian move-
ments for the spread of the gospel.

I recognized in this second marked deliver-
ance the hand of God, and was encouraged to
go on, believing that God would prosper this
simple movement toward Arabia. One hour

A FOURTH VENTURE 1 6$

after passing this place we reached the large
Druze town of Orman, situated on the edge of
the sandy plains that lead away toward the
Jowf. This was the first stage of our journey,
and although some parts of it had been rough,
yet I felt that the good hand of God had been
on me, and I had the assurance that the next
stage of the journey would be accomplished in
His own way and time.

We put up in a large guest-room on the out-
skirts of the town. My hosts consisted of three
brothers, all of whom treated me kindly. I
proved here the truth of the Arab proverb,
" Mountain can never meet mountain, but man
may meet man." One of the brothers knew
me, having met me in Damascus two years be-
fore. My things were stowed away out of
sight, and I was given to understand that I was
to be quite at home. So on the 2Oth of
December I took up my quarters among these
strange people, the Druzes, with their secret
religion. Early next morning Mohammed left
me, taking with him the horses. He begged
me to return to Jerusalem with him, remind-
ing me of the danger and- hardships I should
have to endure if I went any farther. After he
had gone I felt that another cord had been
severed that was likely to have kept me from

1 66 A FOURTH VENTURE

the desire of many years. I was sorely tempted
to give way and return, but the thought of the
promises in Psalm cxxi settled the matter. I
had no idea what the future would reveal ; that
we must leave for the next chapter.

DRUZE CHIEFS

The Druzes live southeast of Damascus. They have a secret religion, and worship at
night. In manners and customs they are like the Bedouin; their white turbans distinguish
them from the Arabs. These two entertained Mr. Forder when going to Arabia.

GETTING READY TO MOVE HOUSE
The Bedouin move every few days. The work of pulling down and setting up the tents
is done by the women. Notice the baby slung on a tripod whilst the mother is preparing
to move. Early morning is the time generally chosen to move camp

CHAPTER XVI

BETWEEN DRUZE AND ARAB I GET INTO THE
DESERT

A PROLONGED stay at Orman gave me
a good opportunity for mission work
among a people that, to my knowledge, had
never been visited before. One thing is certain,
no copy of the Scriptures had been taken
there, or if so, had been lost sight of. My first
few days were spent in visiting among the
people in their homes. I inquired for the
Scriptures, but found no trace of them. I had
daily opportunity for speaking with the people
about salvation and the Saviour.

After supper, two hours were generally spent
with the guests that had come in to spend the
night. The best attention was given to all I
said, and these evening gatherings ofttimes re-
sulted in the sale of a few gospels or Bibles.
These were carried away to different places by
the owners as they went to their homes next
day. In Orman itself I left about forty copies
of the New Testament — many of them were
bought by big boys that were able to read

167

168 I GET INTO THE DESERT

quite well. Some kind friend had sent me
from England, some time before, fifty copies of
the life of Joseph and the gospel of John
bound together ; these I found very useful and
most acceptable among these people. One day
I entered a house and found, sitting on the
floor near the fire, an old Greek Priest. I en-
gaged him in conversation, and soon found that
he was, like hundreds of others in a like capac-
ity, entirely ignorant of salvation by faith in
Christ; he also told me he had never had a
Bible. He could read well, so having with me
a few extra good quality of binding Arabic
Bibles, given by friends in America, I offered
him one. He very reluctantly accepted it,
thinking that such good fortune was not for
him. The same day I saw him ride off to the
village he lived and officiated in, with his
newly acquired present wrapped in a handker-
chief, and stored away in his bosom. The
days spent in Orman were unpleasant and
comfortless. Most of the time it rained or
snowed, causing deep mud and slush. The
only fuel was dried manure. I much preferred
to endure the cold rather than the thick, stink-
ing smoke that issued from the smouldering
mass on the floor in the middle of the room.
At night I had to lie on the hard floor, with

I GET INTO THE DESERT 169

only a straw mat under me. A covering was
given me that was full of vermin, so that it is
needless to say I did not use it after the first
night. The people were very kind in asking
me to their homes to a meal, generally made of
large white peas, boiled, and then well covered
with oil or strong fat melted down. These
meals, always served hot, were very acceptable
and helped to warm me, and I was very thank-
ful to God for such a provision. There being
no shops, I was unable to buy any food, and the
Arabs will rarely sell food to a stranger. I shall
never forget the Christmas Day I spent in that
place. Heavy snow had fallen, followed by rain,
which turned the whole place into a mud pond.
It was also very cold, and as no fuel was to be
had because of the snow and rain, I had to sit
about all day enduring the cold and damp. The
roofs of the houses being only mud, it is an easy
matter for the rain to penetrate and come through
into the house. Such was the case this Christ-
mas Day. The rain was dripping through in
some eight places, and it was a difficult matter
to find a dry spot even in the house. Soon after
my advent into Orman, I began asking questions
as to the possibility of getting to the next place
I wanted to reach — a spot marked on the map
as Kaf.

170 I GET INTO THE DESERT

I gathered it was some six days' journey away
southeast, and the country between was waterless
and very dangerous to travel over because of
roving bands of Arabs that were always on the
lookout for passers-by. The people in Orman
were not much acquainted with the name Kaf.
I found in common, everyday talk they always
used the word " Kurrey-ya-tayn," which means
" two villages," or ofttimes they spoke of them
as " Deree-el-milh," that meaning the " salt dis-
trict," as the work of the Arabs there was that
of salt-gathering, which they sold to the people
who organized caravans for the purpose of get-
ting this everyday commodity. When I made
known the fact that I wanted to visit the settle-
ment of Kaf, the people shook their heads and
said, " Don't go ; the Arabs there are a bad lot ;
when we go there, in large parties, we never let
the rifles out of our hands." As I was importu-
nate, my host said he would try and find me a
Bedouin that would take me to Kaf. From
time to time such desert rangers came into
Orman, and for money could be induced to
conduct travellers over the sands. As they
knew fairly well the whereabouts of the Arabs,
they were the best suited to guide one in safety
to Kaf. Two or three such men were found,
but on being told that the intended traveller

I GET INTO THE DESERT I /I

was a Christian, they at once said they would
have nothing to do with such people, as their
religion made them the enemies of God and of
the followers of Mohammed. It was soon very
evident that I must wait a long time to find a
Bedouin willing to take me, so I requested my
host to undertake for me. He gave me many
fair promises, but kept none of them. After all
attempts had failed, and it seemed unlikely that
I should get on, I one day stated my case to the
sheikh — chief man — of the place, and asked
him to help me. He was a very nice, fatherly
old man, and set about advising me not to go.
Again I had brought before me the dangers of
the desert, the fatigue, and the possibilities of
death from thirst or the fanaticism of the
Arabs of Kaf.

I told the sheikh I was willing to face all that,
and as I was trusting God to protect and keep
me, I believed He would do so. Promising
to free the chief from all responsibility if he
would help me to get away, he at last said he
would make arrangements for me to go on the
morrow. I went back to my lodging, repacked
my books and few belongings, and sewed some
of my money into the waistband of my trousers,
giving the remainder to my host to keep for me
until my return at some unknown future date.

1/2 I GET INTO THE DESERT

Money given like this, as a trust, is quite safe,
even in a stranger's keeping. Next morning
I went to the sheikh. He began to make
excuses for not being ready to start me, went
over all I had heard before, and again he tried
to persuade me to give up the journey. I re-
minded him of his promise, and told him that
as a sheikh I looked to him to keep his word,
not break it. This put him on his mettle.
He called a man and told him to get a camel,
load up my things, letting me ride on top, and
take me out and hand me over to the owner of
the first Arab tent we came to. The order was
soon obeyed, and we rode off.

We went until sunset, but found no tents,
spent the night out, and early next morning
started again. In the afternoon we saw a few
tents away in the distance, and went to them.
Our reception was not a very hearty one, and I
saw I was not very welcome. We were asked in,
and my things were carried in and piled up one
on the other. The man that had come with me
told the men in the tent where I wanted to go ;
they received the news very sullenly. Then he
said he would return to Orman. But I felt con-
strained to ask him to stay the night with me,
and it was well he did. We had supper, all sit-
ting round the same dish, and used our fingers

I GET INTO THE DESERT 173

in place of spoons. Being very tired, I was soon
asleep, not waking until morning, and was then
roused by finding the heavy tent-cloth down on
me. I crawled out from underneath, and saw
the women pulling down the tent previous to
moving. I asked them why they were doing
this so early in the day. Their reply was,
" The men have ordered that we move to an-
other place; they fear to give shelter to a
Christian, one that is unclean, and would cause
trouble to come on us. Soon the tent and their
household goods were loaded up, the cocks and
hens tied on top of the load. The few sheep
and goats had been led off early in the morning.
The little nomad community were soon off,
leaving my companion of the previous day and
myself standing there alone. He suggested
that he should ride the camel and go and look
for more tents and return again to me. I was
to stay and watch over the luggage. I ob-
jected, as I knew that if once he got away on
the camel it was very doubtful if I should ever
see him again. So I said, " Leave the camel
with me, whilst you go and look for more
Arabs." He consented, and went off, leaving
me about seven in the morning. Noon came,
and he did not return, and I waited until
nearly four in the afternoon, and was begin-

174 I GET INTO THE DESERT

ning to think he had really left me, when I
saw him coming. He had found one tent near
by, and had spent the day with the men, talk-
ing, eating, and sipping coffee, not caring
about me out under the hot sun, hungry and
thirsty. Again we loaded, and set off for the
tent, reaching it in about an hour. I sat down
and ate some bread, and was glad to gather
from the conversation of the men that a large
caravan was expected to pass that night, on
its way to Kaf ; it was going to get salt. After
supper we talked, and settled that if possible I
should join the caravan, and so reach Kaf with
it. It was full moon; we were sitting round
the fire in the tent door, when a man came in
and said he could hear the bells of the camels,
and it was the caravan.

Quickly my things were loaded on a camel.
I jumped on top, and my new host led off into
the desert. By the light of the moon I could
see coming toward us a great dark mass: that
was the caravan. We went for about a quarter
of an hour, and then stopped to await the
arrival of the caravan. Soon some Arabs on
horses galloped up to us, shouting to us, " Who
are you ? What do you want ? " Their ques-
tions were soon answered. Then came the
first part of the great company, made up of

I GET INTO THE DESERT 175

about four hundred camels ; they passed us ;
then a second, then a third, and then the last
part. Each section was guarded by about fifty
horsemen, armed with long spears, rifles,
swords, and revolvers.

As they passed us, the man with me kept
shouting out the names of men he thought
likely to be in the company. The first three
sections of that great caravan, made up of six-
teen hundred camels, passed, and no one an-
swered the call of my man. In the last part,
however, some men were found, and with a
hasty explanation as to who I was and where
I wanted to go, my baggage and self were trans-
ferred to another camel, and I was soon in full
swing with that moving mass, on my \vay to
Kaf. No terms had been made as to payment
for the animal I was on, or any arrangement
made about food and water. I joined the
caravan at quarter to nine in the evening, and
was supposed to be four and a half days' jour-
ney from Kaf. As we rode along I got into
conversation with some of the men near me.
They told me we were to make the journey
in easy stages, because the camels, being
loaded with wheat and barley that was to be
bartered for salt and dates, could not travel
long distances without resting. But I soon

I GET INTO THE DESERT

found that they were only telling me lies, so
that, as they said when I told them afterward,
" I should not ride with a heavy heart." We
rode all that night, until half-past six the next
morning, when a halt was made. " If you
want to sleep, do so," they said, " for we only
rest two hours." I lay down on the sand,
covered myself with my native cloak, and was
soon fast asleep. But I was roused in a quarter
of an hour, and told to " Get up, the caravan is
off." And so it was ; they were nearly all gone,
and, jumping on my camel again, we soon
followed, just twenty minutes after we had put
down.

On and on we went, never stopping until
half-past five in the afternoon. The camels
were made to kneel down, and rumor said we
should rest for hours. As the men were about
to remove the loads a cry was raised that Arabs
were near.

Looking up, I saw on some high ground
overlooking us some mounted men — about ten.
Some of our horsemen jumped on their horses
and made off. The newcomers galloped away.
Our men, although riding as hard as they could,
fired their rifles after the pursued ; one was hit
in the arm, causing him to drop his spear. I
had mounted a hill near at hand and watched

I GET INTO THE DESERT 177

them. Our men were gaining on the others,
and soon came up with them. Being outnum-
bered, they threw down their arms. They
were from a large tribe that were camped
about a mile away. Our men made them re-
turn with them. The order was given to load
and start, and just fifteen minutes after putting
down we were on the move again. A man
thrust some hard bread into my hand as we
moved off, and I nibbled at it as I rode along.
The captured Arabs \vere made to go with us,
and were placed in the midst of the caravan.
This was to prevent them from returning to
their camp and calling others, who might have
harassed the caravan all night. We rode on
through that night. As the sand was hard in
those parts I walked a good bit of the way, for
two reasons — to keep awake, and to keep
warm. The day dawned, but no halt was made.
The captured Arabs were allowed to return, as
there was now nothing to fear from them or
their people. The sun rose, but on we went.
About ten o'clock some of the men called to
me, " Look ! see the palms, they belong to Kaf ;
we shall soon be there."

About eleven o'clock we rode into the place,
and in the square formed by the houses the
camels were made to kneel down, were un-

178 I GET INTO THE DESERT

loaded, and given food. We had ridden for
thirty-eight hours with only half an hour's stop.
The return journey was made in six days.
It is needless to say I was tired, thirsty, and
hungry, but the thought of really having got to
Kaf — the desire of years realized — made me
forget the fatigue of the journey in the joy of
being there. I left the hubbub of the square
and went off to the palm gardens near by and
jumped for joy, then sang the Doxology, and
afterward gave thanks to my Heavenly Father
for the fulfilment of the promises I had trusted
in, as written in the I2ist Psalm. I then went
to a spring of warm sulphur water and had a
wash, then returned to the men in the square.
They took me into a small mud house near by,
the owner of which was known to them. A
large tray of dates was brought in and we ate
as many as we could ; then, being tired after our
long and hurried ride, I lay down on the floor,
put my head on my saddle-bags, and was soon
asleep. When I awoke it was nearly five
o'clock, and the sun was getting low. I went
outside and found some of the men I knew.
One of them said to me, " Come, I will take
you to the chief's house, and ask him to care
for you." I went with him to the adjoining
village. He was sitting outside with a lot of

CARAVAN RESTING AFTER A JOURNEY

This shows the camels with their heavy loads off, after a continuous journey of thirty-
eight hours across the desert. The heavy saddles are rarely removed. The Arabs fear
the camels will get cold if too much air is allowed, for the beast is very susceptible to cold.

THE CHIEF OF KAF

This man showed great kindness to Mr. Forder during his stay with him. The Arabs
he rules over think much of him because of his bravery. Kaf, where he lives, is a twin town
hidden in the mi Jst of beautiful palm groves.

I GET INTO THE DESERT 179

men, but rose and came forward to greet
me. On being told about me, he said it would
be best if all my things were brought and put
in his guest-room, and I might lodge there.
He called a boy, told him to take a donkey, and
go and bring my things over. Just then I heard
a gun go off, and found it was the signal for the
caravan to load up and start on its return
journey. The men I had travelled down with
came to bid me farewell, and persuade me to
go back with them. u Why will you stay witk
these cursed people ? " they asked me. " They
will surely kill you, because you are a Chris-
tian." At last they left me, and I saw the
caravan go away. I watched it as it slowly dis-
appeared over the sand-hills, and was sorely
tempted to go after it, but grace and help was
given to overcome the temptation, and I went
back to the chief's house. Never shall I for-
get the feeling of loneliness that came over
me as I made my way back to that room.
Everybody about me strangers — not only na-
tionally, but religiously, and, as I well knew,
of a kind not favorable to Christians. The
thought that I was the only Christian in the
whole district was one that I cannot well
describe.

CHAPTER XVII

A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SUBJECTS

KAF is a large village in two sections, and
is divided one from the other by palm
groves. The dwellings are built of mud bricks,
and so arranged as to serve well for defence in
case of attack from outside, whilst the front of
the houses face on to a large square. In this
square all the business done by caravans is car-
ried on, and during the stay of one of the cara-
vans the scene is a busy as well as a noisy one.
Traders come from Syria, bringing with them
wheat and barley, which they exchange for
coarse salt. The Kafees get this salt by
evaporating strong brine, of which there are
numerous never failing springs quite near the
place. Kaf has an abundant supply of water :
some of the springs are sulphuric and quite
warm; these are used for medicinal purposes.
During a large portion of the year the people
migrate into the deserts, only returning to their
homes in the village for the date harvest, a

1 80

A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SUBJECTS I Si

time equal to the grain harvest in other parts.
The women are not secluded, neither do they
veil their faces, but do not sit with the men.
They have their liberty, and in this respect are
better off than thousands in other parts of the
Mohammedan world.

The palm trees and extensive groves of Kaf
pleased me immensely, and I passed many hours
in them in company with some of the men who
were kindly disposed toward me. On one side
of the village is a high mountain, most of the
stone as black as ink. On the top, which has
been levelled, are the remains of what was once
an extensive castle and fort. Much against the
wishes of the people, I climbed the mountain
and explored the ruins, but was not allowed to
make notes or take photographs. As I passed.,
the men of Kaf gathered in groups ; the only
word I heard was "Nisraney" — Christian — one
of the cursed ones, the enemy of God and all
Moslems. Not having been so exiled among
such isolated followers of Mohammed, I was
not quite sure what treatment I might expect
from them. On reaching the chief's room, I
found him and some men there. Supper was
brought in, served up in a large iron pot. I ate
my share, not knowing what it was, and even
now have no notion off what I supped. All

1 82 A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SUBJECTS

I know is, that it was very hot, slimy, greasy,
and tasty, the latter making it appetizing.

After supper we sat round the open fire on
the hearth, and coffee-making began. The
green berries are roasted over the fire, then
pounded in a large wooden mortar. When
sufficiently fine, the coffee is put in boiling
water, and allowed to filter to the bottom of
the pot ; then boiled up quickly for a few min-
utes, and set aside to settle. Sometimes, if
guests are on hand, spices are bruised and put
in to flavor the coffee. Having stood a few
minutes, a small quantity, say about a table-
spoonful, is poured into a handleless cup and
handed round, the chief tasting it first and then
the guests. About four ounces of coffee is put
to a pint of water. This makes a very strong
and black beverage, and it is drunk without milk
or sugar. A man's generosity is judged by
the quantity of coffee he gives his guests. A
favorite way of speaking about a good host is
to say " the coffee-pot is never off the fire."
Coffee is the only luxury these Arabs have; '
intoxicants have not yet reached them, and
they have no native-made drinks that take the
place of alcoholic liquors — long may they re-
main in such a state !

Whilst coffee was proceeding, we were talk-

A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SUBJECTS 183

ing about the possibilities of my getting farther
into the country. Opinions were divided ;
some thought I could go safely, others said
there was much danger, besides hardship and
fatigue. The chief advised my return to
Orman, but saw no way of sending me back.
Then a man came in and said a party of Arabs
had arrived, that were leaving early in the morn-
ing for Jowf, a large town some eleven days'
journey southeast. I had intended, if my way
was prospered, to reach this town, it being the
largest and most important in Northern Arabia,
and I may mention here that Kaf, the place I
was then in, was under the government of Ibn
Rasheed, the Sultan of Arabia, resident in
Hayel. The chief, whose name was Moham-
med-el-Bady, sent for the man in charge of the
caravan. He soon came, and was told that I
wanted to go with them to the Jowf. Would
they provide me a camel and let me journey
with them? The man at once saw I was a
Christian, and gave his answer. " If I took a
Christian to the Jowf, I am afraid Johar — the
chief there — would have me killed for doing
such a thing, so I cannot do it."

Other men were called in, but all gave nearly
the same answer. One said to me, " If ever you
want to see the Jowf, you must turn Moslem, as

184 A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SUBJECTS

no Christian would be allowed to live there many
days." This was somewhat discouraging, but
the chief told me to " keep my heart strong "
and we would try again in the morning before
they started. Then the matter dropped, and I
introduced the Bible. A man present, being a
good reader, took the Book and began to read.
I found him the third chapter of John's gospel,
and as he read a verse I would speak on it. I
ofttimes get a man to read for me so that those
listening may believe that what they hear is
really written in the book they see. Arabs
have said that I have made up some of the
things that I have read to them, but one of
their own number reading does away with that
foolish idea. The men that were gathered in
were most attentive to all I said. It was some-
thing quite new to them.

They asked me lots of questions about the
religion and customs of the Christians, pitied
us because we could only have one wife at a
time and because we had no date-palms in our
country. Before separating for the night, the
man that had been reading for us asked me to
give him a Bible. I told him he must buy it.
He said he could pay for it in dates if I would
take payment that way. I agreed: so next
morning he brought me some dates and took

A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SUBJECTS 185

away his book ; this led to the sale of eight or
nine other copies, either Psalms and Luke
bound together, or Genesis and John. I was up
early in the morning and out with the sheikh,
who did his best to get the men that were
leaving to take me along with them, but they
were firm in their refusals. So I had to see
them load up and leave, feeling that the possi-
bility of getting on was a very poor one. That
day I spent in the homes and gardens of the
people. They treated me in a kindly way, but
it was spoilt by their continual hard sayings
against me as a Christian. That same evening
another party of men called in at Kaf to stay
the night. In vain my host tried to induce
them to take me on, but the same excuse as
the previous night was made. I saw them
leave next morning and wondered if ever I
should get away. After they had gone, Mo-
hammed, my host, came to me and said, " As
no one will take you with them I will go with
you to the next place, named Ithera, and per-
haps from there you can get on to the Jowf."
About noon he called one of his servants to
bring in a camel and his horse, and we were to
make a start. The things being loaded on the
camel, I got on top, he mounted his horse, and
we were just riding out of the gate that led

186 A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SUBJECTS

into the town when we met about twelve men
mounted on camels. They were chiefs from a
tribe camped near by, and had come to visit
my host. So we turned back, and I had the
choice of waiting another few days, or being
sent on in charge of two young men, servants
of the chief. I chose the latter; they mounted
the camel, and I was given the horse to ride.
We rode off again, and about sunset saw in the
distance the palms of Ithera, just about four
hours' ride between the two places. I noticed
the two men ofttimes got off the camel, and twice
made it kneel down as if to adjust the load, but
I found out later on that they had rifled my
belongings and had buried them in the sand.

When I returned, nearly three months after,
the sheikh of Kaf handed me the things the
two men had robbed me of. They had told
their townspeople how they had treated me,
and the chief, hearing of it, made them give him
my things and gave them a good thrashing for-
their treatment of me, his late guest.

Ithera is a much smaller place than Kaf and
has its own chief. The population would be
from six to eight hundred all told. The place,
like others in Jebel Shomer, is built of mud
brick and surrounded with palm groves. A
good spring in the centre of the village sup-

A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SUBJECTS 187

plies drinking water for man and beast. All
the houses consist of one large room, many of
them doorless and quite bare of furniture. I
noticed and thoroughly examined a large ruin,
now in the middle of the place ; it was built of
large blocks of stone, roughly hewn and black
in color. I concluded that it was at one time
a guard-house, as there was ample accommoda-
tion for man and beast. Some of the chambers
in the ruin have been turned into dwellings and
storehouses and are more substantial than the
more modern structures. Here too I noticed
that the women were quite free and went un-
veiled.

The guest-room of the chief of Ithera was
quite near the principal entrance to the place.
We rode up to the door of the simple room,
and I, writh my few belongings, was put down at
the entrance. The younger of the two men
that had come over with me from Kaf went
into the room and shouted to all the men sit-
ting round, " We have brought a Christian and
stick him on to you ; do what you can with
him." In this manner I was deposited in
Ithera, and delivered to no one in particular.
According to custom, the chief should have
been sought out and I handed over to him per-
sonally. As it was, no one was responsible for

1 88 A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SUBJECTS

me. I carried my goods inside and put them
in a corner. There was no salutation of wel-
come, and no one made room for me. I was
left standing just inside the doorway. It was
a very large place, about thirty feet long and
fifteen wide. The doorway was in one of the
side walls. It was as usual very void of com-
forts. The floor was strewn with sand, on
which the men, about thirty in number, were
squatting. A black man with piercing eyes
and face like a demon sat at the coffee, pour-
ing it out and handing it round. The chamber
was put to two uses. The part on the right
hand of the doorway was set apart for the
accommodation of the men and visitors ; that
on the left side was used as a stable, and was
abominably dirty. There were some horses
and camels tied up there that belonged to some
Arabs of the Beni Sakhr tribe, that had come
in to transact business and were to stay the
night. As I stood in the entrance awaiting an
invitation to join the men, I heard them specu-
lating as to who or what I was. They no
doubt thought that I did not know Arabic and
so could not understand what they were talking
about. A man sitting 'near me informed the
others that I was a Christian from Jerusalem
and was to be shunned, because he had visited

A TEMPORARY HOSPITAL IN THE DESERT

To this tent the author was sent to keep company with an old man suffering from a very
loathsome disease. The Arabs hoped Mr. Forder would catch the disease and die, and
so they would be saved the trouble of killing him.

MRS. KHY-KHAN, THE CHIEF'S WIFE

This woman is preparing the morning meal. Bread is baking on a hot sheet of iron. Mr.
Forder was kindly treated by this woman during his enforced stay in her town. The look
of surprise was caused by her interest in the camera.

A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SUBJECTS 189

that city and had seen the Christians there —
not Protestants — worshipping pictures and
images. This, unfortunately, is all too true,
and can be seen in any of the churches belong-
ing to the Eastern sects representing Christi-
anity. A man sitting in another part of the
assembly differed from the first speaker, and
volunteered the information that " I was not a
Christian, but one from among the Jews." But
a third thought he knew better, and speaking
in a loud voice said, " This is neither a Chris-
tian or Jew, but one from among the heathen,
an infidel, one that knows not God, nor his
apostle Mohammed, on whom be peace." — This
information, however, did not satisfy the whole
company, evident by one man, who, with more
boldness than the others, rose and said, " This
is neither Christian, Jew, nor infidel, but a

Pig."

All that know anything about Mohammedans

will know that this was the greatest insult pos-
sible to offer any one. To call a man a dog is
bad enough, and sufficient to cause lifelong
enmity, but to liken one to a pig would be be-
yond forgiveness, and possibly result in death.
Having given vent to his ideas about me, the
speaker left the place, maybe from fear of what
he had said, and in came the chief man of the

190 A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SU3JFCTS

place. He heard the last words of the dis
appearing speaker, and also what I had ventured
to say in reply to criticisms about me. I just
said, " Men, I am neither pig, infidel, nor Jew; I
am a Christian, one that worships God, the same
God as you do, but not of those Christians who
bow down to and worship pictures and images ;
as there are four fingers on your hands, each
one different from the other, so there are dif-
ferent kinds of Christians." The old sheikh
then addressed me, saying, " If you are a Chris-
tian, go and sit among the cattle." I did as I
was told, and went and sat on the ground be-
tween a camel and an old white mare.

I had not been sitting long when in came a
man, by whose dress I knew must be a stranger.
He soon proved it by walking over to me, put-
ting out his hand, and shaking mine. Never in
my life was a proffered hand more acceptable
than that. It spoke in a very assuring way of
sympathy, pity, and comfort. He sat down
beside me, and then followed this short, but to
me instructive, conversation in an undertone : —

Stranger. — Who are you and from where
do you come ?

Answer. — From Jerusalem. I am a Chris-
tian, a preacher.

Stranger. — What do you want here ?

A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SUBJECTS 191

Answer. — I am come to see the land, people,
towns, villages, and have with me books for
sale.

Stranger. — If you value your life, you will
get out of this as quickly as you can, or the
men, who are a bad lot, will kill you.

Question. — What kind of a man is the chief?

Stranger. — Very kind, and has great influ-
ence ; makes much of his guests.

Question. — Who are you and what do you
do here ?

Stranger. — I am a Druze, and have the only
shop here. I am allowed to remain because I
pretend to be a Moslem.

With this he got up and went away, and I
saw him no more during my short stay there.
I then pricked up my ears to hear what the
men at the far end of the room were saying. I
heard them discussing with the chief plans for
getting rid of me ; one man offered to cut my
throat whilst I was sleeping that night. But
the old chief said, " I will not have the blood
of a Christian on my house and town." An-
other suggested that the supper that was given
me should be poisoned ; that would save them
killing me, as I should die in my sleep ; then I
could be buried, and if any one from my people
or Government came looking for me, — as they

would, — my grave could be shown, and, if nec-
essary, my body, but no marks would be seen to
show that I had been done away with. To
this, however, the chief objected, and it was
suggested that I be driven out into the desert
to die of hunger and thirst. It was at last
settled that I be left until the morning, and the
old chief said, " Lest any harm come to our
beasts by having a Christian with them, he had
better spend the night in the gardens under the
palms." Then supper was brought in, and, after
all the others had supped, I was called to eat.
I sat down by the large round bowl, and, being
hungry, ate and enjoyed an unknown mixture,
conveying it to my mouth with my fingers in
place of- spoon or fork, things evidently un-
known in those parts. Having seen the others
partake of the same food, I knew there was no
harm in the dish. Then I was called to follow
the chief, and he led me out into the gardens
quite near by. I sat down under a large palm
tree and prepared to spend the night in the
open. After half an hour the chief came back
again, saying, " I fear if you stay here you will
affect the palms in some way, and my crop of
dates will fail this year; come with me." He
led off, and I followed him. It was nearly
dark. We got outside the walls of the place,

A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SUBJECTS 193

and he showed me a solitary tent near by, under
the shadow of some old walls. " Go in there
and stay," said he; and I did so. Inside this
tent I found there was an old man suffering
from a very loathsome disease, much like lep-
rosy; he was in a bad state, and was most
repulsive. He told me he could no longer be
tolerated inside the village, so had been isolated
until death relieved him from his sad state. I
felt if ever there had been a time that I needed
courage and help, it was now. I had, by oft
reading, learned by heart the i2ist Psalm, and
I laid claim to verse 7 as never before. The
next morning I was up early, and awaited the
events of the day. No one came near. I had no
idea where my things were. All I had was my
pocket Bible, and all I could read in it was the
Psalm I have just named, viz. 121. Toward
noon I saw a few men with the old chief,
whose name was Khy-Khwan, crossing over in
front of the tent. I followed them unobserved.
They sat down and began to talk, not knowing
I was near and listening to all they were say-
ing. I gathered from their conversation three
things : —

i st. That a caravan was to be made up to
leave for the Jowf on the following Friday —
this was Wednesday.

194 A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SUBJECTS

2d. That the old chief himself was to con-
duct the caravan.

3d. That the two parties I had seen leave
the last town, Kaf, had both for some cause or
other been delayed, and were to join the cara-
van leaving on the Friday.

These things made me glad, and I determined
to face the chief about them. The men having
gone away, I followed Khy-Khwan and spoke
to him thus : " You are going to the Jowf ; will
you take me with you ? " He gazed at me in
wonderment. Said he, " You will never leave
here alive, and if you did and reached the Jowf,
you would surely be killed. This is the land
of the Moslem ; no Christians come here ; you
are our enemy and the enemy of God." I
replied, " I will pay you to take me with you,
and am ready to face the Jowf with its dan-
gers." His answer was : " Do you know how
far it is to the Jowf ? It is ten days' journey.
The desert journey, the dangers from robbers,
hunger, thirst, and fatigue will kill you." Again
telling him I was prepared for all that and had
no fear, I asked him, " How much do you want
to take me — for the ten days' journey there
and back again, provide me a camel, food, and
water for the journey, and help me all you can
whilst we stay in the Jowf? "

A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SUBJECTS 195

His answer was short and decided, " Two
English pounds a day, equal to ten dollars —
ten days going, ten returning, and a stay of
fifteen, making thirty-five days — put me down
seventy gold pieces, English ones, and I will
take you." I told him it was impossible, that it
was more money than I had ; he must ask less.
" If you can't give it, go back to your place,"
he said ; so I returned to the isolated tent. I
was strongly impressed that it was God's order-
ing that I had come to Ithera just when I did.
To find a man like Khy-Khwan just about
starting to conduct a caravan to the Jowf was
most providential, as was the fact that the dif-
ferent parties I had seen leave Kaf had been
delayed here in Ithera. I felt it was the time
to act, so on returning to the tent I sat down
to pray and meditate. I was led to make an
offer of money to the chief, but not as large a
sum as he expected. I had a few Napoleons —
French gold pieces, value four dollars each —
sewed into the band of my trousers, so ripping
out four of these I went off to find the sheikh.
I found him alone in the guest-chamber.
Walking up to him, I held in my hand the
money, at the same time saying, " If you will
let me go to the Jowf with you, find me a
camel, water, and food, I will give you these

196 A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SUBJECTS

four gold pieces." He looked at the money
and then at me, then said, " Give them to me
now, and we'll start after to-morrow." I said,
" No ; you come outside, and before the men of
the place I will give them to you ; they must
be witnesses." Had I given him the money,
most likely he would have denied ever having
had it. So away we went, and, in presence of
the men of Ithera, the money was handed over
and the bargain made. That night I was
allowed to sleep in the guest-room, with a horse
on one side of me and a camel on the other,
my only fear being that the horse might tread
on me, as I was on the floor. But I had a
good night's rest, and on waking next morning
found the place empty. I went out to a spring
near by, had a wash, the first one for many
days, then went in search of some of the men.
I met a woman, who turned out to be Mrs.
Khy-Khwan ; she kindly asked me to go into
her house. I did, and she set before me a dish
of dates, some warm bread, and a bowl of sour
milk. Off this I made a sumptuous breakfast.
She talked long with me and sympathized and
pitied me because I had had to run away from
my own land, people, and kindred, and seek
shelter among the Arabs. " Tell me," she
asked, " what crime you committed, or who you

WATER SKINS FILLED, READY FOR A JOURNEY

These skins are removed from the carcass without being cut, and after curing are used to
carry liquids in. The four seen above filled with water were for the use of Mr. Fc.nlcr and
the chief that accompanied him for ten days across the desert. When nut in use. olive <>il is
rubbed on and put into the skin to prevent it from drying and cracking, and so becoming useless.

A KIND CHIEF BUT UNKIND SUBJECTS 197

murdered, that you had to run away." I told her
the real reason why I had come to the desert
region of Arabia, but she, poor thing, could
not believe that I would leave wife, children,
home, and country, and live such a life as I was
enduring, just to tell people about a Saviour.
I asked about the proposed journey. She told
me her husband went once a year, and this was
the time. He was taking the yearly tax from
the district that had to be paid to the chief of the
Jowf, who would send it on to the capital
city, Havel. She told me the men were a
" cursed " lot, but encouraged me by saying, " If
you are with Khy-Khwan, no one will hurt
you." I spoke to her about her soul, but I got
the usual reply, " We women are no better than
our camels or 'donkeys ; we have no souls ; when
we die, there is an end of us." Then I went
out, and in walking about saw water-skins on
all hands being prepared for the journey. In
a garden by a cistern there were four ready to
be hung on the camels. I knew that the start
\vould soon be made and I was not disappointed.

CHAPTER XVIII

TEN DAYS ON THE DESERT

THE call to noonday prayers was heard,
and I returned to the house. As soon as
prayers were over a hurry and bustle began.
A camel was driven in, and I was told to load
up my things quickly, as the caravan was off.
I put my belongings on the camel, jumped on
top, and rode outside the village. There I met
thti chief, who sent a man to get me a stick to
guide my beast with, as it had no halter or
rope on its head. Then we started ; my load
slipped off — so did I — because it was not tied
on. Some men were sent to adjust and secure
it, and I soon overtook the others. I counted
3,bout one hundred and twenty camels and
about eighty men in the party. Some of them
were especially unpleasant and rude fellows.
They gathered round me, showing their dag-
gers and guns, telling me over and over again
that such things were for Christians. They
told me I should never reach the Jowf alive ;
they would leave my dead body on the sands.

198'

TEN DAYS ON THE DESERT 199

They began extolling the religion of Islam, and
told me I must change mine if I lived in their
country. The start for the Jowf was not en-
couraging from a human point of view, but in-
wardly I felt that God was with me, and the
arrangements I had been able to make, and for
so small a sum of money, encouraged me to
believe that all would be well. I did not ignore
the fact that there were dangers, but relied on
the promise that they should not prevail over
me. We rode away from Ithera about one
o'clock, and went on until sunset. Just before
five o'clock a cry was raised, " Look behind."
Coming after us, as hard as they could ride,
was a party of wild Bedouins ; they were rob-
bers. The camels were all driven up close
together, and made to kneel down ; this was for
protection. The old chief came to me and
said, " Your being with us has caused us this
trouble, and the first day out, too." He then
told me to lie down and seek shelter between
the camels, for he feared I should be hit by a
bullet, as they had begun to fly about us. I did
not care to take such an undignified position
as was suggested, and told Khy-Khwan so. He
said he feared I might be killed, and he very
vehemently cursed the day that I came to him.
Quite an exciting battle took place between the

200 TEN DAYS ON THE DESERT

enemy and our men, some of the latter acquit-
ting themselves very well. I congratulated
them afterward, and we became more friendly.
The robbers made off, and the order was given
to spend the night where we were. My supper
of dates and warm, heavy bread was given me,
after which I lay down on the sand and was
soon asleep. The robbers appeared again after
about two hours, but were driven off.

Next morning we moved off at sunrise, and
soon reached a spring of brackish water. Here
we filled up the skins, and moved on as quickly
as possible. We never linger around water.
Other Arabs might come up, and, if unfriendly,
a quarrel might ensue. Much of the fighting
among the Bedouin and Arabs is caused by
quarrelling over water — springs and wells
(Gen. xxvi. 18-21). That night we drank
all the water we had carried away from the
spring, and hoped next day to find more. But
we found none for five days, and consequently
were very thirsty. The evening of the fifth
day I induced our men to search for water, and
they set out in all directions to do so. Pres-
ently one was seen waving his " abba " — cloak
— over his head, thus indicating that he had been
successful. The camels set off at a run toward
him ; I brought up the rear. On reaching the

TEN DAYS ON THE DESERT 2OI

spot I saw about ten of the men down on their
knees digging in the sand, just as a dog would
do. I asked where the water was, and received
the answer, " Wait ; you are a town man and
don't know the wilderness ; we are sons of the
desert, and know how to manage." Down
they dug — three feet, four feet, five feet, but
no appearance of water. Then, instead of sand,
came gravel, and soon the valuable liquid that
we were all so anxious to have a drink of. In
turn we were given drink. The men had pity
on me and gave me the first draught, knowing
I was not used to such long abstinence. The
water was dipped up in their dirty, greasy skull-
caps, that had never known soap and very little
fresh air, being worn next the head, under the
large handkerchief that serves as a covering for
the "head. It was no time to stand on cere-
mony ; we were all too eager for a drink to
care how it was conveyed to our mouths from
its gravelly bed. My cup and enamelled bowl
would have come in useful there, had they not
been stolen by some one anxious to relieve the
Christian of those useful additions to a very
limited outfit. Having water, we could have
bread for supper instead of dates. Dough was
made, and baked in a bed of hot ashes on the
sand. When taken from the hot coals, the

202 TEN DAYS ON THE DESERT

thick cake was divided between us ; sometimes,
if the divider was not kindly disposed toward
me, I came off badly, only getting a small piece.
On one occasion I had only received a tiny
share, not enough to nearly satisfy me, so re-
membering I had in my saddle-bag the remains
of what was given me in Orman, sixteen days
before, I took it out, intending to eat it. It was
musty and as hard as a stone. Knowing the
dislike the Arab has of seeing bread thrown
away, I determined to soak it and give it to
my camel to eat. I did this, thinking no one
had seen me. Next morning, bread was made
and divided out as usual, but none was given
to me. I did not ask for any ; that would be
contrary to custom. So we started on another
day. How sorry I was I had given the camel
the hard bread ; it would have served me now
I was so hungry. I might have damped it and
managed to allay the hunger, but it was gone.
Little did I think that my feeding the camel
with these few hard pieces would result in my
having to go hungry for the next day, but such
was the case. Some of the men saw me soak
the musty remains and give it to my camel,
and they thought me wasteful. I told the old
chief about it during the day. He said he
thought I had been given my share, as the

TEN DAYS ON THE DESERT 203

usual quantity of flour had been doled out as
hitherto. On asking the men who made the
bread why none had been given me, the answer
given was, " The Christian feeds his camel on
bread, and as he is wasteful we did not give
him any." I tried to explain, but I had com-
mitted an offence that could not be easily over-
looked. I learned a lesson I shall not soon
forget. I well remember the night that fol-
lowed that day. We put down near a wild
palm ; water was brought from a small spring
about half a mile away. It had been windy all
the day, but at sunset a terrible wind from the
northeast commenced to blow, whirling the
sand in all directions, and so keen and sweep-
ing was the wind that we could not even have
a fire — it was carried in all directions. The
chief kindly made a barricade of some of the
sacks of wheat we were carrying, but it was of
little use, and did not shelter us much. The
cold made sleep impossible and I rested little,
and was glad when the day broke. The wind
teased with the sunrise, but I was chilled
through and was obliged to walk for quite two
hours so that I might get warm. \Ye were
getting near our journey's end, and all were
eager to reach the Jowf. Beyond the fatigue
of the journey all had gone well. The attitude

204 TEN DAYS ON THE DESERT

of the men had changed toward me, but they
never lost an opportunity of trying to frighten
me because I was a Christian. We ofttimes
saw skeletons of camels on the sand, and twice
saw human remains. On coming across a skull
one day, the men called my attention to it and
tried to impress me with the fact that it was a
Christian's skull — one that like myself had
ventured into the land of the Moslem, but
had perished in the desert, and his remains had
been left as a warning to any Christians that
came after. " Such will be your fate " was the
comforting assurance they offered me. The
last night we were out I made another unfor-
givable mistake. As usual, I was up before
daybreak, and had boiled a drop of water to
make me a cup of beef tea before starting out.
There was no food that morning, as we were
nearing the end of the journey, and, on picking
up my kettle to put into my saddle-bag, I found
it still had a drop of water in it, not more than
a teacupful. Here was a chance for a wash, so
filling my hand I rinsed my face and hands,
glad to be able to remove the top layer of dust
and dirt. I thought no one had seen me, but
alas, eyes were on me, and on asking for a drink
later on I was told, " If you use water for wash-
ing, you cannot have it for drinking." To ex-

THE CASTLE OF THE JOWF

This shows the chief's residence, on the outskirts of the town. The picture was taken
after the accident that nearly killed the chief, hence only three towers appear on the walls.
It was never known that this picture was taken, or the Arabs would have made more
trouble than they did.

MARID, THE STRONGHOLD OF THE JOWF

This castle is at the north end of the oasis of Jowf. It is very large and circular in shape.
The Arabs believe that much treasure is hidden under the walls, and only the Christians
know where to locate it. Once a year worship is conducted by the Arabs inside this mas-
sive ruin.

TEN DAYS ON THE DESERT 205

plain was useless. I had done a dreadful thing,
and could not be forgiven. Soon after I saw
the men empty all their water-skins out on the
sand. And what I fain would ha"/e quenched
my thirst with was wasted before my eyes.
Before us in the distance could be seen the
palms of the Jowf, and rearing itself above the
palms was the fine old circular castle, no one
knows how old. I was forbidden to go near it
for various reasons. About four in the after-
noon we entered this secluded desert-bound
town, and were soon lodged in the spacious
guest-room of the three sons of the chief,
whose name was Johar — or Aboo Amber, i.e.
the father of Amber.

CHAPTER XIX

THE CHIEF'S PLAN TO CAPTURE ME FOR ISLAM

SOON after sighting the old castle I saw
men, women, and children coming out to
meet their relatives and friends that were
arriving from the desert journey with its dan-
gers and fatigue. For a time all attention
was taken off me by the greetings, salutations,
and welcomings of the long-separated relatives.
But soon it was discovered that a stranger was
with the party, and for him there was no word
of welcome. Such expressions as these were
meant for me : " May God curse him ! " " The
enemy of God and the Prophet, may we be
delivered from him ! " " Infidel, Unclean ! " and
such like were hurled at me by all classes,
especially the women and children. I was
much interested in the old mud towers that
I saw on all hands as I entered the Jowf from
the north. I found out afterward that they
were for the purpose of defence. It was im-
possible to get any pictures of them because of

206

THE CHIEF'S PLAN TO CAPTURE ME 207

the constant eyes on me. We rode along the
side of this beautiful oasis in the desert. The
beauty and prosperous condition of the thou-
sands of palms impressed me. The Jowf as a
town is about two miles long, and, on an aver-
age, a quarter of a mile wide. The houses,
many of them, are hidden away in the palms,
and so give one the impression at first sight
that the place is thinly populated. I learned
from the chief, later on, that there were about
forty thousand inhabitants in the Jowf, all told.
The buildings, except the castle, are all of mud
and sand brick, dried in the sun ; some of the
houses have three stories, built, of course, in a
very primitive style. The roofs are all flat,
protected by a wall about waist high. The
women, there secluded, frequent these roofs, as
they are free from all observation. The interior
of the houses are as bare as possible, the hand-
mill, coffee-pounder, and an old rug or two
being about all that is visible. Most of the
houses are doorless, owing to the scarcity of
wood. The people live mostly out of doors,
in the hottest months seeking the shade of the
palm groves and gardens, and in the cooler
months basking in the sun on the sand. Rain
is scarce in the Jowf ; they told me three falls a
year were about all they had. The water

208 THE CHIEF'S PLAN TO CAPTURE ME

supply is good, drawn up by camels from
springs deep down in the earth. There are
some warm, sulphurous springs there, used by
the people for ablution purposes. I saw no
shops in the town, and on asking how the
people got the necessities of life, such as cloth-
ing, cooking utensils, coffee, etc., they told me
they relied on caravans that came from Mecca,
Bagdad, or Damascus.

The men make their own " abbas " — cloaks
— on rude looms, also a few for sale. I got a
very good one for about three and a half dol-
lars. The abbas of the Jowf are much valued
and sought after in Palestine and Syria. I
also saw men making "mereers," the double
rope that they wear on their heads, and was
intensely interested in the simple, yet neat, way
they did it. Saddle-bags and carpets are also
included in the industries of the Jowf. The
staple food of the place is dates and " temmin,"
the latter a cereal inferior to rice. Bread is a
luxury and is only eaten by the head men of
the place, and that not every day, A kind of
bread is made from flour, ground from a small
seed almost as fine as sand and dark red in
color. The name of the seed is "semmah,"
and the taste of the finished article abominable.
The people are fortunate in having a good

THE CHIEF'S PLAN TO CAPTURE ME 209

supply of fruit. Besides the many varieties
of dates, they told me they had grapes, apricots,
plums, citron, melons, tomatoes, cucumbers,
beans, pumpkins, and other things not known to
me in English. Like all Eastern towns, there
were no sanitary arrangements. The only
beverage of the Jowfees is coffee ; intoxicants
there are none — long may it be so ! Many of
the men smoke, not all. I was agreeably sur-
prised to find so many of the men and boys
able to read intelligently, and also to see that
many of them possessed watches. The igno-
rance of outside affairs surprised me. Absence
of posts, telegrams, newspapers, and railways
keeps them isolated. Truly Ishmael dwells
alone (Jer. xlix. 31). The government of the
Jowf, as also Ithera and Kaf, is in the hands
of Abdul- Azeez-Ibn Rasheed, who resides at
Hayel, a city six days' journey from the Jowf.
He is represented in the Jowf by a very in-
fluential old man named Johar, whose fame I
had heard some years before. Just, liberal,
open-hearted, and firm, he is feared and re-
spected by all that know him or have anything
to do with him. He is also responsible for the
taxes and good behavior of a town six hours east
of the Jowf named Sakaka; report said it was
as large and flourishing a place as the Jowf.

210 THE CHIEF'S PLAN TO CAPTURE ME

Time and circumstances did not allow me to
pay a visit to this unknown place, much as I
should have liked to do so.

Having introduced the reader in this brief way
to the Jowf and its people, I will return to my
story. A sharp bend in the road revealed the
imposing castle of Johar with its four lofty towers
on the corners of the outside wall. Our com-
pany had gone into all directions, and I was
riding behind Khy-Khwan. He pointed out the
castle to me and told me it was the residence of
Johar, the chief. He rode on, I following, until
we reached a large square with many men sitting
about in the sun. Near by was a large house.
We dismounted ; many were the greetings for
my conductor, but none for me. Then we
were invited inside and were asked to be
seated. I was the object of attention, every-
body asking the same question, " What does he
want here ? he is a Christian." I kept quiet, and
left Khy-Khwan to answer all questions, which
he did in his own way, not always telling the
truth, however. As it was " Rumathan " — the
month observed by Moslems for fasting by day
and feasting by night — no coffee was made or
food brought. We had not been sitting long
when a man came in to say Johar had heard of
our arrival and was coming to see us. In a few

THE CHIEFS PLAN TO CAPTURE ME 211

minutes he appeared, accompanied by six or
eight of his attendants and a short, thick-set
negro, clad in many and various-colored gar-
ments and carrying a heavy whip in his hand.
We all rose to receive him, and he was given the
seat of honor at the far end of the large room.
He invited Khy-Khwan to sit on his right and
me on his left hand. Salutations were ex-
changed and a few questions asked, and then
Johar turned to me, "You are a Christian, eh?"

" Yes."

" What brings you here ? "

" To see the Jowf and its people, also to sell
God's Word to any that will buy."

" Are you not afraid of the people, or myself ? "

" No ; I believe God will keep me, and I
believe that under your protection no harm will
come to me."

" Have you heard about me before ? "

" Yes, in Kerak. I ofttimes heard of you from
the Bedouin that came in to buy grain. Your
name is sweet everywhere, and I am glad to be
in the Jowf and under your protection."

" I fear you will get killed if you go about
here alone. The people are haters of Chris-
tians, and may harm you."

" I will be careful and not go far away from
the houses," I replied.

212 THE CHIEF'S PLAN TO CAPTURE ME

He then ordered a man to go and bring a
tray of the best dates for me, saying to me:
" We are fasting and dare not eat. You must
be hungry ; don't be ashamed ; ' kool wahud ala
deenoo' — every one to his religion. Eat," for
the dates were before me, enough for twenty
men to feed off.

I hesitated, not liking to eat alone, knowing
that every one else was fasting. " I can wait
until sunset," I said. " Like you, like me."

But he insisted, and I ate a few of the dates,
and whilst thus engaged he rose and went out,
followed by his eldest son, named Faleh, and his
attendants. Soon I was called outside, and was
addressed by Faleh, who, here I must say, was
a very nice, kind-hearted young man of about
twenty-five. " My father says you must not be
allowed to remain in the guest-room with the
men. Being a Christian, you will defile them ;
you are unclean ; you are to have a small place
near by where you must sleep and sit. He will
also send three men that will be with you when
you go outside — one of them will always be
with you in your room." He showed me a
small place adjoining the guest-room. It was
about twelve feet deep, four feet wide, and
seven feet high, entered by a rude doorway
about four feet high; it had a door without

ARABS OF NORTHERN ARABIA
These three men, residents of the town of Jowf in North Arabia, were my guardians during
my stay in that extensive oasis. In reality they were set over me to take note of all I did
and report to the chief. The one on the left-hand side roused the fanaticism of the Arabs
after the castle had fallen in and injured the chief.

THE CHIEF'S PLAN TO CAPTURE ME 213

any fastening on it to secure me from intruders
by day or night, The floor on which I had to
lay was made of large stones set edgeways in
mud. No air or light could enter except by
the door, and that entrance was darkened by a
flight of steps that led to an upper chamber,
which was the sleeping apartment of the young-
est son. My belongings were carried in and
put down anyhow. The place was filthy, hav-
ing been used as a stable and general rubbish-
room. I was grateful for this separate place ;
although not all that could be desired, I had
some privacy, and was enabled to pray and
meditate without a crowd of curious spectators,
and I also had my nights to myself, and was
thus saved the unpleasant task ever)- night
and morning of looking through my clothes
in search of sundry irritating and undesirable
creatures that abound in Arabdom and quickly
transfer themselves from man to man, encour-
aged no doubt by the prospect of something
fresh in the way of drink and food. I got my
share of visitors in spite of my semi-seclusion ;
I was invited to supper in the guest-room, and
did my best to empty the dish, having been with-
out food for nearly twenty-four hours. In spite
of Johar's orders, I was invited to join the men
round the fire and partake of coffee with them.

214 THE CHIEFS PLAN TO CAPTURE ME

Next morning I was up early, and spent a
time at a warm spring, washing my clothes.
The sight of soap induced others to join me, to
take the opportunity of using soap on their
hands and heads; so my soap quickly vanished.
After a breakfast of dates from a large trayful
that had been put in my small room so that I
could eat when I liked, I thought I would go
over and see Johar at his castle. There were
no men about the premises, and I could not
find any women. So off I started, and in about
fifteen minutes reached the outer wall of the
castle. I walked round it to find the entrance,
when suddenly, on the south side, I came upon
Johar holding his daily Court of Inquiry. He
was mounted on a dais about three feet high,
with his scribe at his side. Before him in a
semicircle sat scores of men, listening to the
various cases presented to him to give judg-
ment about. On seeing me, he beckoned me
to him, and asked me to sit by his side. He
finished the case he had in hand, and then
turned to me : —

" Did you come over here alone ? "

" Yes."

" Were you not afraid ? "

"No."

" Have you no fear of any one ? "

THE CHIEF'S PLAN TO CAPTURE ME 215

" Yes, I fear God and the devil " — a com-
mon saying among them.

" Do you not fear me ? "

" No."

" But I could cut your head off."

" Yes, I know you could ; but you wouldn't
treat a guest thus."

" No," he said, " I wouldn't ; but I would Khy-
Khwan, — turning to him, — if he were not such
an old friend of mine, for bringing you down
here with him."

Then, calling one of my neglectful attend-
ants, he told him to return with me to the
house, have bread made for me, and see that I
was never hungry, " and don't let him go out
alone," he bawled out as we departed.

I passed a few hours quietly with my com-
panion, reading and writing in my diary, —
afterward I was strictly forbidden to write, —
when we were told that Johar was coming.
Soon he arrived, and a crowd with him. The
large hall was filled with men, and I was called
in before him. He asked me a few things

about our country and religion, and I answered
him. Then he said he wanted to see God's
Book. So I went and brought in a lar^e Ara-

o o

bic Bible, bound in morocco, with gilt orna-
mentation. I had brought this book for him,

2l6 THE CHIEF'S PLAN TO CAPTURE ME

but did not want to force it on him. We un-
covered it, and he took it, kissed it, and ex-
amined it from outside, and concluded it was
a nice book. Then he opened it, put on some
ancient spectacles, and commenced to read.
Opening at Genesis, he read the whole of chap-
ter xxiv, shut up the book, and asked me to give
it to him. " You must buy it," I said ; " it is
worth an English pound, i.e. five dollars. I
will sell it you for half." He said, " Leave
it till to-morrow." Then he said, " Christian, I
want to speak to you." I said, " Good ; speak
on." Said he, " You are come into the land
of the Moslem, the believers in Mohammed,
the prophet of God ; here are no Christians ;
we don't allow them to stay here; we are taught
by our religion to kill all such. I must ask you
to give up your religion and become as one of
us. What do you answer ? "

Here was a strait place to be in. I remem-
bered that to displease Johar might cause seri-
ous times for me; also, that hundreds of miles
of desert lay between me and any Christian,
and I could tell that the whole thing had been
arranged.

Johar went on to say : " I praise God that
through my influence six Christians that came
here at different times have become Moslem,

THE CHIEF'S PLAN TO CAPTURE ME 21 7

and one Jew also. There is a man living here
in Jowf that was formerly a Christian, but has
resigned himself to God and the true religion.
[This latter was true, for I met the man ofttimes
after, although he was ashamed to speak to me.]
Repeat the witness, ' There is no God but God,
and Mohammed is His Prophet,' and at once
you will become one of the faithful, and be
acceptable to God and His people." They were
all awaiting my answer. With a short, silent
prayer to God for words to speak, I replied,
" Chief Johar, I would ask you two questions
and hear your answers." " Good," he said ;
" speak." " First, if you were in the land of
the Christians, guest of the Queen [I did
not know she was dead], and she asked you
to become a Christian and give up your own
religion, would you do it ? " " No, not if she
had my head cut off," he replied. " Secondly,
which do you think it best to do, to please God
or please man ? " " To please God," was the
ready reply he gave. Then I said, " Johar, I
am just like you: I cannot change my religion,
not if you cut off two heads, if I had them, and
I must please God by remaining a Christian.
If I repeated ' the witness,' you would all be
pleased, but it would only be from here (touch-
ing my lips); my heart would still remain

218 THE CHIEF'S PLAN TO CAPTURE ME

Christian, and so by pleasing you I should
grieve God by becoming a liar and deceiver.
I cannot do what you ask me ; it is impossible."
He rose and went out, much displeased. I was
glad to get away to my room. Here was an
attack on the soul, not the body, and the verse
in my Psalm came home forcibly to me : " He
shall preserve thy soul." The men came to me
frequently that evening and told me how fool-
ish I had been not to do as Johar had asked
me.

" To-morrow is our great feast day, and your
conversion would have made it a great time of
rejoicing," they said.

I was glad when night came, so as to be
alone, and I prayed earnestly for guidance and
help for the coming day, then lay down on the
stones to sleep, body and mind not in the most
perfect state of rest. Next morning, just after
daybreak, I was aroused by two men, fully
armed, pushing open the door, coming in, and
shouting, " Christian, get up ; Johar has sent us
for you ; come quickly to the castle." " What
does he want," I asked, "and where is your
authority ? " " We don't know ; here are our
swords, showing we are on duty."

I quickly dressed, all the time wondering
what was going to happen, for I had made up

THE CHIEF'S PLAN TO CAPTURE ME 219

my mind to keep quiet and not expose myself,
because the people would be so excited keeping
feast, and my presence might have excited them
more and caused me harm. I followed the men
over to the castle and saw crowds of people going
toward it from all directions. On reaching the
same spot as I had before, I saw Johar mounted
on his elevated seat, clad in garments of many
colors. He was all smiles and greeted me
heartily. I gave him the usual salutations and
the special ones customary on high days and
festal occasions. He was pleased, but surprised
that I could do this. He bade me sit by him.
There were hundreds of men and boys sitting
in the sun on the sand in front of him.

Said he : " To-day is a great feast with us,
and we have been to the old castle and had
prayers and service; why did you not come and
4 furrage ' [i.e. to quiz in a curious way] us at
our prayers and see all that we did ? " I replied,
" We do not think that people should go to
prayers just for the sake of quizzing what others
do ; prayers to us are sacred, and we like to be
quiet and alone, and I thought you would not
like me to come and watch you." The answer
pleased him, and he patted me on the back, say-
ing, " You are better people than we are, if only
you would accept the Prophet as we do." Then

he told his servants to bring out the things pre-
pared for breaking their fast.

The great castle door with its iron plates on
it were opened, and inside I saw a rusty old
cannon. In a few minutes several men appeared,
carrying on a carpet a circular dish about four
feet in diameter, filled with meat and " temmin,"
— a cereal inferior to rice, — strongly flavored
with curry and cayenne and soaked in liquid
grease. This was placed in front of Johar and
myself. Nine other dishes followed and were
placed round in a circle. Then Johar told me
to sit down on the sand, as he already had done,
which I did. He called Khy-Khwan and one or
two others. Then saying in a loud voice, " Bis-
millah ! " — In the name of God, — he told all to
eat, and the men began to feast. The meat —
camel's flesh — was in large lumps, but was
soon torn into fragments and devoured. The
quantity consumed by one man was astonish-
ing. Johar was very attentive to me and kept
putting into my hand lumps of meat, and espe-
cially fat, the daintiest part, that he had pulled
off the lump in the midst of the bowl. " Eat,
Christian ; enjoy yourself ; don't be ashamed,"
he said The sight was sufficient, but I had to
eat. I was glad when Johar got up and went
back to his seat. I quickly followed. We

THE CHIEFS PLAN TO CAPTURE ME 221

watched the crowd pushing and grabbing to
get their share of the provision. I shall never
forget that sight. How I wished I could have
taken some pictures of it, but it was impossible.
Said Johar, " See the savages, like dogs ; do
you thus in your land, Christian ? " I said " No,"
and he laughed.

After the dishes had been emptied and well
cleaned they were taken back into the castle,
and the assembly broke up. I then went in-
side the castle and had coffee with the sheikh.
Johar then called one of my attendants and
told him to go back with me to my room and
stay with me, lest any one should harm me. So
we went back. I learned that three camels and
four loads of temmin had been cooked at Johar's
expense for the feast. He did this ever)' year.
We stayed indoors for an hour or so, and then
I said I would like to go into the palm groves
and gardens and spend a time. The people, all
being taken up in visiting one another to ex-
change greetings, had no thought for me, so I
slipped away alone, and in the quiet time made
use of my camera. Late in the afternoon Johar
came again. I was out in the groves when a
man came to call me. I hurried back and found
the large guest-room full of men. I was invited
to sit by Johar. All were very silent. Then

222 THE CHIEF'S PLAN TO CAPTURE ME

Johar addressed me. " Christian, what I asked
you yesterday was a hard thing, and I think there
must be things that make it difficult for you to
become a Moslem, but I will help you. Are
you married ? "

" Yes.''

" Have children ? "

" Yes, three."

" Have you money ? "

" No."

" Do you trade, or keep a shop ? "

" No. God sends me what I need."

" Well, listen : If you will become Moslem, I
will give you four wives instead of the one you
have, and you will soon have more than three
children. I will also give you camels, palms,
and money, so that you can trade and soon
become rich. We will give you a house and
all you need if you will become a Moslem like
we are."

I thanked him for his kind offer, but told him
I could not change my religion for all he might
offer to give me.

He got up quickly and went away to his
castle, murmuring " that it was a cursed day
when I came among them, and that if I stayed
in the Jowf, some harm would befall them."

That evening he sent Faleh, his son, to me,

THE CHIEFS PLAN TO CAPTURE ME 223

requesting that I give him the Bible he had
seen. So I sent it to him.

Next morning early, two men came to me with
this message, " Johar has sent us to tell you
that you must leave the Jowf at once ; you
must not stay here ; you will do some harm if
you remain."

My answer was, " Respects to Johar. Tell
him I can't leave the Jowf alone ; I have no
one to go with. When Khy-Khwan returns, I
will go with him ; I have paid him for the
return, so cannot go with any one else." They
went off and told him, and soon returned, say-
ing, " Johar says you must leave at once ; you
cannot stay here." I said, " You go and tell
Johar if he wants me to leave this place at once,
he must send a camel and some men that will
go with me to Ithera, where I came from. If
he won't do that, I must wait till our party
returns." Soon they were back again with this
message, " Johar says you may stay, but must
not leave your room. If the Sultan at the
capital hears you have been here doing as you
like, he might punish Johar for allowing you
to remain." This was a relief to me, but I felt
I must be careful.

CHAPTER XX

A CALAMITY THAT NEARLY COST ME MY LIFE

A FEW days after the events recorded in
the last chapter, as I sat by the fire in
the guest-room with about twenty men, the
head man of the community, a sort of priest
and a fanatic, came in and launched into a
sermon full of hatred against the Christian
religion. He repeated all that the Koran had
to say against Christians, and reminded the
listeners that the words of their prophet com-
manded the faithful to exterminate the unbe-
lievers whenever they came across them. The
whole thing was directed against me, but I
took no notice of it. The preacher went away,
and I went to my dark corner and prayed for
help and guidance.

Early next morning kind-hearted Faleh came
to me and said, " Don't fear, Aboo Jerius [my
name among the Arabs, meaning " Father of
George," the name of my eldest son], no harm
shall come to you if I can help it. Don't
make the people angry; some like you, but

224

PHOTOGRAPH BY A. FOROEH

CROSSING THE DESERT

This picture was taken from a camel's back as the author rode along. It shows a caravan
on the desert. At any sign of danger, the camels are brought together and made to kneel
down. ITie Arabs find their way across these trackless plains by watching the sun and
stars.

GATHERING SALT IN THE DESERT
In northern Arabia there are many brine springs. From these the Arabs get quantities
of good crystal salt, which they barter to traders for wheat, clothing and sometimes money.
Iwo sacks or salt, a camel load, is worth about thirty cents.

A CALAMITY NEARLY COST ME MY LIFE 225

some that are ignorant hate you." That day,
as on previous ones, I sold and distributed
many Scriptures to both men and boys, all
having proved to me that they could read. In
the afternoon Faleh came to me with three
men that he said were from Hayel, the capital.
They were just starting back, but each wanted
a Bible to take with them. Would I give
them one each ? I was glad of this opportunity
of getting the Word taken on to Hayel, espe-
cially as I could not reach it myself, so, bring-
ing out three nicely bound copies, I gave them
to the men, and they left me and started for
the seat of government in Central Arabia.
Some day we may hear what was done or
caused by these three books taken into this
stronghold of Islam.

That afternoon, late, I was alone in my room,
when a most unfortunate affair happened that
nearly cost me my life, and that more than
ever set the majority of the Arabs in the Jowf
against the Christian.

I have already stated that Johar, the chief,
resided in a castle a little distance off the Jowf
at the south end. This castle, made of mud,
bricks, and stones, had three walls, and on each
corner of the outside wall rose a lofty tower
about forty feet high. The apartments of

226 A CALAMITY NEARLY COST ME MY LIFE

Johar were in the centre of these walls. These
towers were for the purpose of defence.

The morning of the day I am writing about
there had been rain and a strong wind blow-
ing from the east. The rain had thoroughly
soaked the exposed side of one of the towers,
and, being only mud brick, had softened it to
such an extent that it fell. Unfortunately it
fell in and not out, and, to make matters worse,
crushed the apartment in which Johar was
sitting reading the Koran, and the much re-
vered and feared governor of the Jowf was
buried under the accumulation of rubbish.

Sitting alone in my room, I heard shrieking
and shouting outside. I went to the outer
gate and saw men and boys running toward
the castle, and I wondered what had happened
to cause such excitement in the Jowf. I soon
learned what had happened, but thought best
to stay where I was. Johar was, after a time,
rescued and dragged out from the debris. It
was soon found that a leg was broken, and that
he was cut and bruised badly. As he lay on
the sand of the courtyard of his castle some
one remarked, " This is the Christian's doing ;
he must have been out and looked at the tower
and affected it so that it has fallen ; it is the
beginning of evil." This was like a spark to

A CALAMITY NEARLY COST ME MY LIFE 22/

a keg of gunpowder. It was quickly agreed
to be my doing, and the cry was raised, " Let
us kill the Christian." As I stood at the gate
of the court I saw the crowd come round the
corner, and heard the yell, " Kill him, kill him,
the Christian, the Christian ! " They had clubs
and daggers and some revolvers. On they
came, nearer and nearer. I did not run away ;
to have done so might have meant death, and
would have appeared as if I had done some-
thing. When they got within about eighty
yards of me, Providence interposed. Three
men came from behind and ranged themselves
in front of me, crying out, with their revolvers
in their hands, " Not one of you come near this
Christian." The crowd stopped, and I was
slowly backed into my room, the three men
remaining at the door. The crowd soon

melted away, and my deliverers came in to me.
I thanked them for their kind and ready help
and asked what led them to act as they did.
Their answer was a good one. "We have
been to India and have seen Christians there,
and know that they work harm to no man ; we
have also seen the effect of the English rule
in that land and in Egypt, and we will always
help Christians when we can ; we wish the
English would come here; Christians are

228 A CALAMITY NEARLY COST ME MY LIFE

better than Moslems. These people of the
Jowf are ignorant of the ways of Christians
and would have killed you if we had not come
along and defended you." Then my host and
kind friend, Faleh, came, broken down and cry-
ing because of the accident to his father. He
said, " Don't fear, Aboo Jerius, I know this is
not your doing; it was decreed, and had to
happen ; I hope my father won't die." Then
in came the other two sons and sat with me,
and I did my best to comfort them. Next day
I kept in or near the house. Faleh said it
would be better. My old chief, Khy-Khwan,
was missing. I had not seen him for two days
and wondered what had become of him.
Toward evening a man came to me saying,
" Khy-Khwan has sent me to bring you to him ;
he is in a house at the other end of the town ; "
so, believing him, I got up and followed him.
It was quite half an hour's walk to the house
I was taken to, but no Khy-Khwan was there.
I asked for him and was told he would come at
sunset.

But the sun set, and he did not come. I said
I would return to my room, as by the actions
and bearing of the men about me I suspected
mischief. Some dates were brought and I was
told to eat. " We will have supper later on,"

A CALAMITY NEARLY COST ME MY LIFE 229

they told me. I ate a few dates and made as
though I would return, but it was dark and the
men would not let me go. I insisted on going
to Khy-Khwan or him coming to me, but was
made to sit down again. About ten a dish of
food was brought in and put before me and I
was told to eat. I do not know what it was.
I tasted it, but did not like it, so refused to eat
any more, and as none of the others were asked
to eat I suspected it was poisoned. At last it
was carried out untouched, and they asked if I
would sleep. I said " No." I guessed they
meant mischief, and had enticed me away there
by saying my travelling chief wanted me. All
that night I sat up. Many times they begged
me to lie down and sleep, but I refused. At
last the morning came, and as I was preparing
to leave these men, I was glad to see appear at
the door the best disposed of my three attend-
ants. He said, " I only missed you this morn-
ing and set out to find you ; you must not go
off alone like this." When I got back, there
was Khy-Khwan sitting at the fire. He said he
had never sent for me ; so it was a trap to get
me alone and do me harm, but it failed. We
had been now many days in the Jowf, and I
had disposed of a number of Scriptures. One
morning, on opening the door of my room, I

230 A CALAMITY NEARLY COST ME MY LIFE

found most of them piled up in a heap, having
been returned during the night. I put them
inside, knowing that if I kept quiet, I should
find out why they had been brought back.
Soon Faleh came to me, saying, " You must not
be angry at the books being returned ; my
father gave orders that the people must return
them ; he says there is something bad in them."
I asked him what it was. He told me it was in
the 2d Psalm, verse 7, " Thou art My Son,
this day have I begotten Thee." I said, " Many
others will be glad to have these books, but
why has not your father sent back his book ? "
" He wants to keep and read it," was the answer
I was glad to hear. That day Khy-Khwan told
me we must leave soon. " I wanted to stay a
month, but for your sake we must get away
soon," he said. Next day the people came
back and asked for their books. I reminded
them of what Johar had said. Their answer
was, " We have done as we were told and
returned the books ; we were not ordered not to
take them a second time. Give them back to
us, and we will hide them until you are gone
away." So I gave them the books again and
heard no more of them. That afternoon I
went to the castle to say good-by to Johar, as
we were to leave early next day. I was kept

A CALAMITY NEARLY COST ME MY LIFE 231

at the castle door whilst word was given him I
.was there. I was allowed inside and saw the
old man lying on a bed on the mud floor in
one corner of a large room.

Many men were sitting with him. I was not
permitted to go near him, so from the doorway
said, " I am journeying to-morrow and came to
say farewell ; thank you for your kindness ; may
God grant you peace and soon restore you and
your leg." Then a hand was put on my arm,
and I was led away outside the castle. Thus
ended my intercourse with Johar, aboo Amber,
the much respected and feared chief over the
town and district of the Jowf. I have heard no
more of him from that time up to the present.
Maybe some time in the future I shall return to
those parts ; past experiences encourage me to
do so, believing that on a second visit I should
fare better. That night I had gone to rest and
was asleep when I was aroused by men shouting
outside the door. I got up, and upon opening
the door found two men, and by the- light of a
tiny lamp they had I saw that between them
they were bearing something in a sack. They
pushed their way in and deposited their burden
on the floor, saying, " Faleh has sent you these
dates to eat on the journey. He may not see
you in the morning, so he sends 'salaams'

232 A CALAMITY NEARLY COST ME MY LIFE

[respects] and wishes you a safe journey."
They emptied the dates, about two bushels,
into my largest saddle-bags, and then produced
a good-sized skin of dates, saying, " These are
from Faleh also ; they are for your wife and
children in Jerusalem ; you must carry them to
them with many ' salaams.' "

Next morning I was up early and saw that
preparations were being made for a start, but
ere we set out my companion Khy-Khwan and
myself had six invitations to breakfast, which
we accepted, eating a little at each house. On
returning to our lodging, the camels were at the
door ready loaded. Faleh was on hand, and
with him a bag of warm bread, which he gave
me, saying, " It will serve you a few days, and
help you over the desert."

Farewells were exchanged, and with mingled
feelings of joy and regret we rode off. Faleh
was very kind to me all the time I was there.
Every morning about ten o'clock he would come
or send for me and take me on to the roof,
three stories up, and give me a good breakfast
of bread, date syrup, native butter, and milk.
This was the best fare the Jowf could produce.
" Eat and enjoy it ; we don't give such to or-
dinary guests; you are my friend, hence bread,"
was always his set speech. He would sit and

A DATE PALM WITH FRUIT RIPE UNTO HARVEST

The date is to the Arab what bread is to the European. There are many varieties and
sizes. The bunches hanging on the palm shown above would make a heavy load for a
man to carry. No part of the palm-tree is wasted; ropes, mats, baskets and boards
are produced from it. Even the date stones are utilized. After soaking they become
soft and make good feed for the cattle.

A CALAMITY NEARLY COST .ME MY LIFE 233

eat with me, not being afraid to put his hand
in the same dish as the Christian. He told me
he had been twice to Mecca, and I observed
he was most careful to remember the times of
prayer.

Arriving at the north extremity of the town,
the caravan was waiting for us. Khy-Khwan
got down, kissed the men all round, and then
gave the word to start. With ejaculations to
Allah, — God, — Abraham, and Mohammed to
prosper and protect them, we said farewell to
the Jowf and its fertile gardens and shady palm

CHAPTER XXI

EXCITING TIMES IN DESERT AND TOWN

FOR four days we journeyed over the desert
without finding water. We had expected
to find surface water, but were disappointed.
Two hours after sunset on the fourth day water
was found in a large basin in some rocks that
we had come amongst. It was dirty and strong,
caused by camels having bathed and stood in
it during the day, and ere we could fill our
skins our camels pushed their way in, stirring
up the sediment and adding to the filth. We
were thankful for the find and drank freely,
also using it for making bread.

The next day, whilst on the move, my camel
dropped down under me and refused to get up
again. I called some of the men, and they,
seeing tears streaming from the beast's eyes,
informed me, " Your camel is drunk — cannot
walk because it is giddy." It had been eating
some herb that had made it so. They called
for water, damped some grass, and tied it on

EXCITING TIMES IN DESERT AND TOWN 235

the beast's head, then set about making a syrup
of some dates, mixing in salt and flour. Hav-
ing prepared this draught, the camel's mouth
was held open and the mixture poured down its
throat. In about half an hour the tears ceased
flowing, and the now sober beast got up and
went on with the others. That night we found
a pool of water, worse than the other, and
camped not far from it. Next day we had a
fright by seeing a man in the distance coming
toward us. Some of our men went off to meet
him, not knowing if he were the scout of friend
or foe. They brought the poor fellow in with
them. He could not speak. He signed for
a drink, which was given him. Then he told us
that he was one of nine that had started out
over the desert with their camels, well provided
with food and water, but they had been met by
robbers who had taken everything from them,
and for eight days they had been without food
or drink. His companions were lying helpless
on the sand some distance off. They had seen
us in the distance, and he being the strongest
had come after us. A skin of water, some flour,
and dates were given him, and we left him re-
joicing in his good fate.

That evening, as we camped in a valley full
of brushwood and stones, we had another alarm,

236 EXCITING TIMES IN DESERT AND TOWN

which, happily, ended peaceably. The men
were seated round the fires when the word was
passed round that voices had been heard com-
ing up the valley. All were silent, and, sure
enough, on the still night we could distinctly
hear the sound of men talking. Those of our
party that had arms got ready for an attack.
The fires were quickly douted by sand being
thrown over them. We were ready for what-
ever might come. As no one came down on
us our men went out to find out who was
about. Soon we heard the report of the guns
and guessed that the sound of voices had come
from enemies. But following the firing of the
guns came the welcome shout : " Friends !
friends ! " In about ten minutes our men re-
turned, bringing with them twelve of the
wildest-looking fellows it was possible to come
across.

One look at them was sufficient to tell that
they had suffered privation and fatigue. The
fires were relighted, and conversation began
again. Coffee was given the newcomers ; then
they told their story, which in brief was as
follows : They had set out from the Jowf two
weeks before, intending to get to Damascus
and find work. They had no camels, but suf-
ficient food to last if all went well, and skins

EXCITING TIMES IN DESERT AND TOWN 237

to carry water if they found it, as they supposed
they would. The skins they had with them
were hard and cracked, proving their long fast
from drink.

Not knowing the way any too well, they got
off the track and were lost in the desert. Food
and drink were finished. For five days they
had been wandering about hungry, thirsty, and
weary. That day they came across the foot-
prints of our camels and men, had followed them,
and so overtaken us as we were camped. Bread
was made for them, and, whilst baking, I took
them a good lump of my dates, for which they
were grateful. Next morning they journeyed on
with us, and the next day, the noon of the tenth
since leaving the Jowf, we saw in the distance
the palms of Ithera once again. We had been
absent thirty-three days, instead of thirty-five,
as Khy-Khwan had said we should. On arriv-
ing at Ithera, the first thing I noticed was the
absence of the tent that sheltered the diseased
man. I suppose he had died and the tent had
been removed. After a few hours' rest Khy-
Khwan, who had faithfully completed the con-
tract made for the four gold pieces, came to
me, and leading me a little distance away from
the guest-room showed me a small hut built of
mud brick, with a door about three feet high and

238 EXCITING TIMES IN DESERT AND TOWN

two wide, and told me it was to be my lodging
place as long as I stayed at Ithera. I told him
I should like to get away as soon as I could. I
had been away from my home and friends for
some months, and no news had been exchanged
between us. There was no opportunity. I
went into the hut ; it was very dirty and dusty.
Lying about were old earthen jars and a few
rough, wooden boxes. These had some old dates
in them, and I was told I could eat all I wanted.
The dust on the floor was inches deep. I
carried my two saddle-bags up there and sat
down. Evening came and I was given a bowl
of water and a little bread. No light was
brought, so I went in search of Khy-Khwan
and asked him for a lamp, and something to
lie on and cover myself with. These were
refused me, and I was told to return to my
place. I did so, and being weary I lay down in
the dust, put a large mud brick for a pillow, and
tried to sleep. But I soon found I was not
alone ; creepers were in abundance. I felt them
on my face and hands, got up and struck one
of my precious matches, and revealed a variety
of creeping things, including scorpions and
lizards. The situation was not inviting, and I
could only keep on the move all that night and
wait for the morning. At last it came, and I

EXCITING TIMES IN DESERT AND TOWN 239

sought out Khy-Khwan and told him he must
send me on my way home. I would not stay
in the hut he had consigned me to. He said
he was going my way in three or four days,
and we would journey together. He took me
to his house and told his wife she was to give
me breakfast. I then went among the men of
the place, asking if any of them would go with
me to Orman, a six days' journey. They all had
one answer, " Give three English pounds a
day [fifteen dollars], and we will convey you to
Orman." I soon found that a price had been
fixed for me to pay to any one that I could ar-
range with. Almost every day of the eleven I
was detained by the immovability of the people.
I saw companies of men leave for the districts
north and west. If they had been able to pro-
vide me a camel to ride, I might have gone with
them, but they were walking. I made friends
with one man, who, I think, pitied me. He
would go with me into the palm groves and tell
me all about the treatment of the palm. I
learned some interesting things, helping me to
understand Psalm xcii. 12 in much of its teach-
ing. The palm is useful, beautiful, fruitful
when joined to another, grows from inside and
not from the exterior, rejoices the heart of man,
and other things, all possible to the righteous.

240 EXCITING TIMES IN DESERT AND TOWN

The same man took me out and showed me
how the Arabs there, as well as at Kaf, pro-
cured the salt they sold to the caravans. In
the sand were many springs of strong brine.
This was ladled up and poured into beds on
the sand, and allowed to remain until nearly
all the moisture had evaporated. Then a man
with a basket and a board waded into the
deposit and scraped up the snow-white crystals.
These were put up in heaps to dry, and then
carried to the village and stored in bins of mud
brick to await buyers. The money value of a
camel load of salt was about thirty cents.

During three days of my enforced stay there
I had fever, but no one cared. The nights
were the worst part of the time. I could hear
the creepers moving about overhead and around
me, and one morning saw in the dust distinct
traces of a snake that had passed by me. I felt
that I was a prisoner and that the story of the
chief going my way was all false. He hoped
the delay would have made me offer money,
but I had none to offer, for all had been taken
from me, as well as my shoes, kettle, soap, comb,
towel, underclothes, and many other things all
useful to me.

One morning I saw a man come in that I
had seen in Kaf. I went to him, and he told

EXCITING TIMES IX DESERT AND TOWN 241

me what I had heard the third day of my ar-
rival, viz. that the chief of Kaf was away.
Had he been at home, I would have walked
over to Kaf and thrown myself on his mercy.
At last I made up my mind to tackle Khy-
Khwan in earnest. It was the morninsr of the

eleventh day. I found him and said, " If you
don't send me away to-day, I will start out into
the desert alone, and if I die, my blood will be
upon you."

He began to excuse himself, but I kept at
him. At last he said, " Well, I will send you
away ; and may you never return again ! " He
called a man and told him to go and bring a
beast for me. In about an hour a poor, skinny
donkey was brought that could hardly carry my
now almost empty saddle-bags.

I asked for a camel so that I might ride, but
was told I must walk. So, minus breakfast and
farewells, I set off with this unknown man.
He had been told that he was to leave me with
the first lot of Arabs he came across.

Walking through heavy sand under a hot
sun was hard work, and after two hours I gave
in and sank down on the sand exhausted. The
man was a little ahead with the donkey; I
called to him, and he stopped, took the bags off
the donkey, and turned all the contents on to

242 EXCITING TIMES IN DESERT AND TOWN

the sand. He handled the boxes of exposed
plates, and their weight made him think it was
money. With his dagger he ripped open two
boxes and emptied two dozen plates out on the
sand, not knowing what to make of such things.
He appropriated my last pair of socks, some
papers, and a jar of beef tea, thinking it was
ointment. An empty soup tin I had kept to
boil a drop of water in he took. Having buried
these things in the sand, he came back to me
and told me to get up and follow or he should
go and leave me ; I rose and hobbled after him,
keeping it up for two hours, although in agony
from aching limbs and thirst. At last we saw
in the distance a palm and pitched near it, an
Arab house. Never was a sight more welcome,
or a shelter so acceptable. The owner of the
tent came out to me and carried in the bags,
then helped me in, and gave me a corner in the
tent. The children, nearly naked, and his four
wives, sat down near me and watched me, giv-
ing vent to expressions of pity for me and
curses and oaths for those who had thus
treated me. Some dates were given me to
eat and some dirty butter to help them down.
I stayed five days with these simple people of
the desert, and they showed me no small
kindness.

PHOTOGRAPH BY A. FOtOEK

AN ARAB WOMAN CHURNING BUTTER

The Arabs make many things from milk, which is plentiful in the springtime. Here is seen
a very primitive churn, — it is a sheepskin slung on a tripod. By being jerked to and fro, the
fat in the milk accumulates and becomes butter, which is eaten with dates and considered a
great luxury.

EXCITING TIMES IN DESERT AND TOWN 243

On the fifth day a party of men with camels
came to the tent. They were on their way to
Damascus. I had hoped to be able to go due
west and so reach Jerusalem, but it was im-
possible. So after much bickering with the
leader of the party, composed of twelve camels
and eighteen men, he consented to take me on
to Orman on payment of about two dollars.
But I had no money, and he insisted on pay-
ment beforehand. I told him I had money at
Orman, and at last he said he would let me
ride on the top of one of the loads; so I set
off on another stage of my homeward journey.
All went well for the first two days ; the men
were a decent lot and kindly disposed. On
the third morning I got up, ready for an early
start as usual, but was told that six of the
camels had strayed away during the night and
some of the men had gone off to look for them.
We wasted that day staying where we were, but
no trace of the camels could be found, so the
six loads of salt, twelve sacks, were emptied out
on the sand, the sacks buried, and it was settled
to start about midnight. The next two days
passed and I asked when we should reach
Orman. The answer was, " We are not going to
Orman ; I killed a man there once and I am
afraid to enter the place. We will leave you

244 EXCITING TIMES IN DESERT AND TOWN

at a village named Umm-Rowman, about two
hours away from Orman." I was sorry to hear
this, as it meant going among strangers again
and having to arrange to get to Orman, and,
being moneyless, it was hard to do.

On the afternoon of the sixth day we came
to the hamlet of Umm-Rowman, the inhabit-
ants being Mohammedans, Druzes, and a few
Catholics. I was lodged with a man known to
the one that had come with me, and he made
arrangements for me to be taken to Orman,
and for the man that took me to bring back the
money in payment for my journey. Next day
I was taken to Orman, and had a hearty wel-
come from the people I had left many weeks
before. It was most encouraging to me to
hear them say, " We have never let a day pass
without asking God to keep you and bring you
back to us safe and well." Of course I had
to tell them what had taken place and all that
had occurred on my journeys. The man I had
left my money with gave it back to me as I
had given it to him.

I stayed a few days with these kind people,
and was besieged for Scriptures, but I was sold
out. Then, mounted on a donkey, in company
with one man, I left for Damascus. The night
before I left a soldier came to the guest-room

EXCITING TIMES IX DESERT AND TOWN 245

asking: for the Christian that had returned from

the Jowf. The official at Sulkhud, the castle
and town I had passed in the fog, had heard of
me, and wanted to see me, and I was to take
him a Bible, if I had one. So next morning I
went over to him. He was very civil ; told me
I had done a bold and dangerous thing, and he
would have stopped me had he known about
me earlier. I did not enlighten him as to how
I passed him three months before. He was
glad of the Bible, and told me he wanted to
read it. Five days later I looked down on
Damascus, the earthly paradise of the Arab,
and soon after was lodged in the home of one
of my native friends there. A hearty welcome
was given me by my kind friends, Mr. and Mrs.
Richards, at the British Consulate. They were
much relieved at my turning up after so long an
absence. From there I sent word of my safe
return to my family and friends, who, by this
time, were getting anxious as to my safety.
Having rested a few days, I set off again, this
time under better circumstances, for my home
in Jerusalem, and, after nine days' riding, at last
looked down on the Holy City once more, just
three and a half months from the time I had
left it. The first move toward Arabia from the
north was over ; fifteen hundred miles had

246 EXCITING TIMES IN DESERT AND TOWN

been traversed during the journey ; about two
hundred and fifty Arabic Scriptures were sold
or distributed among these hitherto neglected
people ; hundreds of leaflets and booklets given
away, all bearing on the plan of salvation ; and
it is not saying too much to say that many
hundreds heard by the spoken Word that with-
out faith in Jesus the Son of God there could
be no forgiveness of sin or eternal life. Look-
ing back on these accomplishments, we ask,
" What will the harvest be ? " and, looking on,
wonder how long must elapse ere —

Arabia's desert ranger

To Him will bend the knee,

and " the kings — chiefs — of Sheba and Seba
offer gifts, and fall down before and serve
Him" (Ps. Ixxii. 10, 1 1). If the perusal of
these pages will lead the reader to take an in-
terest in the inhabitants of Kedar, and give
themselves to obey the command of Matthew
ix. 38, the fatigue, hardships, and dangers of
my journeyings will be amply repaid.

Let all be in the spirit of expectation for the
fulfilment of Psalm Ixxii. 9, when " The dwell-
ers in the desert shall bow before Him."

CHAPTER XXII

THE RELIGION OF THE ARABS

MANY years of close intercourse with the
Arabs, of both town and tent, have
given me a fairly good insight into their re-
ligious as well as social life. The religion of
Islam, embraced by the majority of the Arabs,
is one that holds its adherents as in a vice.
There is nothing in it that is ennobling or
helpful to social or domestic life. On the con-
trary the followers of Mohammed are under a
heavy yoke because of the requirements of
their religion. I will try and give the main
beliefs of this people to show the reader how
earthly and exacting are the things that the
Arab has to carry out in order to get the favor
of God and Mohammed. But first a short ac-
count of the institutor of this religion with its
more than two hundred millions of adherents.

In the sixth century the Jews and the Chris-
tians had their synagogues and churches in
Arabia. In that land of freedom the Magians
reverenced and practised the doctrines of Zoro-

247

248 THE RELIGION OF THE ARABS

aster, and the Sabians adored their planetary
deities. The worship of the sun, moon, and
fixed stars was the primitive religion of the
Arabs, and was a system naturally formed and
adopted by a people who, in travelling through
immense deserts, contemplated and were guided
by the regularity of the motions of the heav-
enly bodies.

Of all the various tribes of the Arabians,
that of the Koreish held the distinguished
rank. To them had been consigned the honor-
able office of guarding the Caaba, the sacred
temple at Mecca, and the supremacy in reli-
gious affairs was accompanied with submission
to their temporal sway. Of this tribe came
one, Abdullah, who married the fair Amina of
the noble tribe of the Zarites, and from them
came the victorious enthusiast of the east.
The dawn of Mohammed's fame was dark with
many clouds. The death of his father in early
infancy left the future Lord of Arabia the pos-
sessor of five camels and one slave. The child-
hood of Mohammed was soon deprived of
maternal care, and he was — so tradition says
— put out to nurse with a Bedouin family.
He remained in obscurity until about twenty-
five, when the office of manager to a wealthy
widow, and soon the possession of her hand

THE RELIGION OF THE ARABS 249

and fortune, raised him to an equality with any
in Mecca.

When Mohammed was a youth, and before
he married, he made several journeys with
yearly caravans into Syria. When not engaged
in bartering or trading, he used to visit a mon-
astery near the camping-ground of the caravan.
The youth from the desert was favorably re-
ceived by the monks, and during his short stays
and occasional visits, they told the thoughtful
lad about the True God, the maker of the uni-
verse and all that it contains. The Meccan
youth learned also from the monastery resi-
dents that God alone was to be worshipped and
none other. This teaching was new to Mo-
hammed, and contrary to anything he had
learned or seen among his own people in and
about Mecca. Two results came from the
teaching of the monks. First, the recovery of
all Arabia from idolatry to the worship of God,
and the birth and spread of a religious system
that has become the greatest antagonist Chris-
tianity has ever had to contend with.

He had always been remarkable for a serious
deportment and strict attention to devotional
exercises ; every year he was wont to retire for
a month to a cave for the purposes of fasting,
prayer, and meditation. Such a life urged him

250 THE RELIGION OF THE ARABS

at length to proclaim himself a prophet sent
from heaven to preach the unity of the God-
head, and to restore to its purity the religion of
Abraham and Ishmael. Thus was founded the
religion of Islam in the year 609 A.D., with
" There is no God but God, and Mohammed is
His Messenger" for its simple creed. This
sentence repeated in sincerity by any outsider
constitutes him " one of the Faithful."

So rapid has been the spread of this religion
that there is hardly a land to be found without
its adherents, and that in the short space of
about 1 2 90 years. The requirements of Islam
are many ; only a few of the principal ones can
be mentioned in this chapter. First and fore-
most comes

Prayer

At the appointed times, viz. daybreak, noon,
late afternoon, sunset, and two hours later, the
Muazzin, inviter, with his face turned toward
Mecca, proclaims at the top of his voice from
the gallery of the minaret that the hour of de-
votion has come. This is the proclamation:
" God is great, God is great, God is great, there
is no God but God, and Mohammed is His
Messenger; come to prayer, Great God, there
is no God but God." In the morning he adds,

THE RELIGION OF THE ARABS 25 1

" Prayer is better than sleep, prayer is better
than sleep." As soon as the voice of the crier
is heard the devout Moslem prepares for
prayer. Ministers of State suspend business;
the tradesman gives up his dealings with his
customers and converts his shop into a mosque.
In four or five positions the prayers are re-
peated ; these prayers are merely a vain repeti-
tion of the first chapter of the Koran, with
petitions added for the prophet and patriarchs,
and being interpreted would mean —

In the name of God, the Merciful, the Compassionate.

Praise be to God who the two worlds made ;

Thee do we entreat, and Thee do we supplicate ;

Lead us in the way, the straight,

The way of those on whom Thou hast compassion,

Not of those on whom is hate,

Nor those that turn aside. — AMEN.

Purification or Ablution

No religious act is acceptable to God un-
less the body, not heart, has previously been
cleansed. In the courtyards of all mosques
are to be found cisterns or fountains, to which
the faithful resort to prepare themselves for
the prayers. The face, arms, and feet have to
be well washed, and whilst this operation is in
progress, the devotee is muttering short ejacu-

252 THE RELIGION OF THE ARABS

lations to the effect that Satan may be removed
far from him. The Koran permits the traveller,
in place of water, to rub the prescribed parts
with sand and so cleanse himself from all out-
ward defilement. Having no water near at hand
ofttimes makes a good excuse to omit prayers
and go on with some more urgent business;
even in the desert the hour of prayer is faithfully

observed.

Fasting

In the religion of Islam fasts take an impor-
tant place, but none so important as the Fast
of Rumathan, observed in remembrance of the
yearly visit of Mohammed to a cave to medi-
tate, pray, and fast for a month, during which
period the Koran was revealed to him. Perfect
abstinence from every kind of support to the
body is commanded, from the rising to the set^
ting of the sun. The pious pass the hours in
meditation and prayer, the careless grandee
sleeps the tedious time away, whilst the indus-
trious mechanic or husbandman, compelled to
work, feels the rigor of the fast. Night, minus
the light, is turned into day, and vice versa.
When the fast falls on a month in the summer,
with its long days and extreme heat, the absti-
nence is almost intolerable ; men get fretty and
cross, and ofttimes are sorely tempted secretly to

THE RELIGION OF THE ARABS 253

give way and break the fast. The Feast of
Rumathan is the most important time of the

year.

Pilgrimage

The feast being past, the pilgrimage to Mecca
begins to occupy the mind of the faithful. The
men of rank, weakly through ill-health, or tied
by business, perform this arduous duty by the
sending and devotions of a substitute. The
desert journey is more acceptable to God as
entailing more fatigue, danger, and expense,
and consequently is more meritorious. On
arriving at the precincts of the Holy Land, a
prescribed circle around Mecca, the pilgrim
must make an entire ablution with water and
sand, repeat a prayer almost naked, clothe him-
self with the Ihram, or sacred garment, and
sandals to defend the soles of his feet from the
hot sand. So-called spiritual meditation is now
the employment, worldly occupations and pleas-
ures being forbidden. Many are the ceremo-
nies and observances of the days spent at Mecca.
The offering of sacrifices on Mount Ararat, in
commemoration of the offering up of Ish-
mael, not Isaac, according to Arab belief by
Abraham, and stoning the devil are two of the
principal things of the pilgrimage at Mecca.
The return of the pilgrim to his far-away town

254 THE RELIGION OF THE ARABS

and village is a time of general rejoicing, and
forever after the pilgrim is a much-honored
man.

Almsgiving

One of the early caliphs said, " Prayer car-
ries us halfway to God, fasting brings us to
the door of his palace, and alms procure us
admission." A tenth part of the property
which has been for twelve months in the pos-
session of an individual is the demand on his
charity by the Mohammedan law. The duty
of almsgiving is not, however, considered to be
performed in all its extent. The productions
of cornfields, olive groves, and vineyards are
not gathered in the East with minute scrupu-
losity. To the poor are assigned the gleanings.
Mohammed permits his followers to enjoy corn,
dates, olives, pomegranates, and all other bless-
ings, but commands that in the harvest and
vintage the poor shall have their share. A
Mohammedan never refuses food to one that
begs for such, and ofttimes accompanies the gift
with a coin. On feast days they are unusually
liberal.

Meditation

The sacred book of the Mohammedans is
the Koran, believed to have been bound in

THE RELIGION OF THE ARABS 255

sections in silk and adorned with gems. It
contains the substance of Mohammed's pre-
tended revelations from heaven, which were
given to him in his yearly visits to a cave dur-
ing the month called Rumathan. The sub-
stance of the revelations was inscribed on blade
bones, leaves of palm trees, and the skins of
animals. A copy of these fragments was in-
trusted to the charge of one of Mohammed's
favored wives, and was eventually put into
volume form. The Koran is divided into one
hundred and fourteen chapters, and these again
into verses. The Mohammedans are supposed
never to touch or read this book without wash-
ing their hands, neither must it be held below
the waist.

The teachings of the Koran are many: No
God but God ; four angels of great importance,
and so to be had in dread — Gabriel, Michael,
Azriel, the angel of death, and Israfeel, the
angel of the resurrection ; prophets and Scrip-
tures, the latter of which contained God's will
for man, but they have been entirely lost, and
what now exists is only a fabrication written
and framed to suit the Christian religion. The
Koran teaches that Jesus the Son, not of God,
but of Mary, was the last prophet of the Jews,
the true Messias, the worker of miracles, and

256 THE RELIGION OF THE ARABS

preacher of righteousness; but the crucifixion
is denied. Jesus escaped from the Jews and was
caught up into heaven, and another in his form
and image suffered on the cross. Although
the divinity and atonement of Christ are
denied, they do admit that he was born in a
miraculous manner at the command of God.
Thus it will be seen that in this so-called reli-
gion God's plan of salvation is ignored and in
its place nothing substituted.

The Moslem, if honest, will admit that in his
religion there is no salvation from sin, but com-
forts himself with the assurance, " God is merci-
ful — I will be as good as I can and leave the
rest to Mohammed." A paradise full of every-
thing to satisfy the sensual gratification of the
follower of the Koran is promised to him who
faithfully observes the commands of God and
his prophet. In contradiction to the seventh
day observed by the Jews and the first day
kept by the Christians, the founder of Islam
commanded that the Friday be set apart for
worship and teaching, hence the name " Yowm-
el-Jumma," the day of gathering. All that are
able must attend the service at noonday to
listen to the sermon given by the religious
head of the place. In the towns of the East
one can ofttimes see fishing-nets spread over

VIEW ON THE RIVER ABANA, DAMASCUS

One of the attractions of Damascus is the beautiful river that flows through it, turning
mills and looms, and causing many acres of land to produce large crops. On the banks of
the river are many beautiful gardens, and groves of fruit trees, under which the natives sit
and pass much of their time. The Abana rises in the Lebanon.

THE RELIGION OF THE ARABS 257

the entrance to a store, meaning that the
keeper of the place is gone to prayers.

This short sketch will give the reader a
simple idea of the religion and requirements
of Islam. Surely the conclusion must be that
these people are as far from the salvation of
God as the heathen of the islands of the sea,
and are as much in need of the gospel being
preached to them as any other of the " all the
world." " Pray ye therefore the Lord of the
harvest " for these who are in the bondage and
darkness of Islam.

CHAPTER XXIII

CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE

IT is not my purpose to enter into all the
details of the everyday life and manners of
the Arabs, but only to mention a few that
stand out prominently among many others,
which have their origin in the scriptures. It
is interesting to remember that, although the
foregoing are in daily practice, it is not because
the people get their instructions from the Bible;
with them it has been the custom for thou-
sands of years, and has been passed down from
generation to generation. The perusal of these
things also makes the Bible very real and,
without doubt, true. Being in close touch
with these people of the East and the land of
the Bible gives special facility for the study
of everyday life.

Hiding Valuables

Genesis xxxv. 4 : " And they gave unto Jacob
all the strange gods which were in their hand,
and all their earrings which were in their ears,

258

CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE 259

and Jacob hid them under the oak which was
by Shechem." Joshua vii. 21: "When I saw
among the spoils a goodly Babylonish garment,
and two hundred shekels of silver, and a wedge
of gold of fifty shekels weight, then I coveted
them, and took them ; and, behold, they are hid
in the midst of my tent." Hidden treasure is
always being found even in these days. One
popular idea of the Arabs about a stranger
coming among them is that he is seeking
buried treasure, and being in the possession of
books knows just where to locate and find it.
The custom of burying treasure and valuables
was, no doubt, caused by the absence of any
safe deposit with man in which to put things
for keeping. Anything buried was only known
to the hider, and it ofttimes happened that
death or war carried off the depositor, and so
his hoard was left to be turned up long years
after. That this custom is still common will
be substantiated by the following.

In company with an Arab I was travelling
over the Plains of Moab ; my man had with
him a revolver that he valued very much, and
if it had been seen by the authorities, it would
have been taken from him. We saw coming

toward us a body of men that we thought were
Turkish soldiers — as they turned out to be.

260 CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE

He was alarmed for his weapon, but was equal
to the occasion ; coming on a large, flat stone,
he sat down by it, and called me to do the
same. I did so, and watched him. He care-
fully turned over the stone, scooped out a hole,
and put his revolver in it, then covered it with
earth and replaced the stone as before. He
told me at some future time he would get the
weapon, which he did a month later.

Another time, when living in Kerak, a man
came to me begging some oilcloth and sealing-
wax to wrap a small bag of money in. He told
me he was going out into the mountains to
hide it. " I cannot trust my father, brother, or
son to keep it, so am going to put it in a safe
place," he said ; and away he went alone to
hide his possessions.

Retaining Garments

Exodus xxii. 26, 27: "If thou at all take
thy neighbor's garment to pledge, thou shalt
deliver it to him by that the sun goeth down :
For that is his covering, it is his only covering,
wherein shall he sleep."

Going to bed is a very simple matter with
Arabs; more often than not the place where
you may be reclining becomes your bed.
Guest-rooms and tents are bare of furniture;

CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE 261

mats and rugs are spread, and on these we
sleep. Nothing in the way of covering is pro-
vided, so that every one must possess his own.
Here comes in the utility of the large cloak —
abba — of the Arab. When he wants to sleep,
it is capacious enough to cover him, and being
closely woven keeps out the cold or wind.
With one of these handy the sleeper can cover
himself just where he happens to be. To keep
a man's outer covering is a great crime, as I
found out once by experience. It happened in
Kerak.

I was sitting in our room with my face
toward the open door, when I saw a sheet that
had been hung out to dry slowly disappear
upward. I ran out and up on to the roof of
the house, and saw a man running off with the
sheet under his arm. I gave chase and soon
overtook him, but could not get hold of him
because of his loose, flying garments. I held
on to his outer cloak, and finding he was likely
to be captured, he dropped the sheet and
slipped his cloak, leaving it in my hands, he
making off as hard as his legs could carry him.
I returned to mv room with sheet and cloak in

«•*

my possession. This was about noon. Soon
some men came asking the return of the cloak.
I said the thief must come for it himself,

262 CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE

Twice they applied, but I refused to give it
to them. They told me I was doing wrong
by retaining it, but I was ignorant of their cus-
tom then. Just before evening the chief, with
some of his sons, came and asked for the cloak,
telling me that I was withholding the man's
covering for the night, and if he died from
exposure, his blood would be upon me. They
told me of their custom, and impressed me
with the fact that by my action I was doing
very wrong. So I gave up the garment, and
have since learned that custom with them is a
thing not easily broken, even under such cir-
cumstances.

Pronunciation

Judges xii. 5, 6 : " And the Gileadites took
the fords of Jordan toward Ephraim: and it
was so, that when any of the fugitives of
Ephraim said, Let me go over, that the men
said unto him, Art thou an Ephraimite ? If
he said, Nay; then said they unto him, say
now Shibboleth, and he said Sibboleth : for he
could not frame to pronounce it right."

Here the distinguishing feature between
these two tribes was not dress, action, or ap-
pearance, but the pronunciation of certain
words, and by this it was known, if they were

CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE 263

friend or foe. To-day a man only has to speak,
and by the pronunciation of certain words the
listener can detect from what town or village
he hails from. The pronunciation of Hebron
is very different from that of Damascus, and
even that of Jerusalem and Bethlehem, only
about five miles apart, is very marked. It
would be rude, on a stranger entering a guest
or other room, to ask him where he is from ;
the Arabs wait until he begins to talk, and
then from the words he uses and his pronun-
ciation they can generally tell where he comes
from. A smart man, to conceal his native
place, will ofttimes use the terms of those he
may be among for the time being.

Hospitality

Judges xix. 4, 5 : " And his father-in-law,
the damsel's father, retained him, and he abode
with him three days : so they did eat and drink,
and lodged there. And it came to pass on the
fourth day, when they arose early in the morn-
ing, that he rose up to depart," etc.

Every town and village among the Arabs is
provided with a room open for the accommo-
dation of all comers — the stranger and the

traveller. It is the pride of a settlement to
have it said about it, " Every house is a guest-

264 CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE

room." To the traveller these places are most
valuable, affording as they do shelter for the
night, protection from robbers, and provision
for man and beast. The head man of the place
generally likes to entertain the guests, although
the humblest inhabitant will gladly provide
food and shelter for any that present themselves
at their doors. A saying of the Arab runs
thus, " The guest comes in the place of God,
and we willingly give what he needs." The
guest is entitled by custom to three days' hos-
pitality ; during that time he is supposed to be
able to transact the business that has brought
him to the place. The host likes to have his
guests on hand early in the afternoon, so that
the best supper possible may be prepared for
them. Another saying runs, " The guest of
the evening does not sup," because no time has
been allowed to prepare for him, so he has to
take what he can get. If circumstances keep
a man in a place longer than three days, he
must go to another house for accommodation.

An Arab is judged by the way he treats his
guests. " The coffee-pot is never off the fire "
speaks well for a good host. Whilst under
the roof or tent of an Arab, the belongings of a
guest are considered safe, also his life. Great
indignation was caused during my stay at

CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE 265

Ithera because one evening my saddle-bags
were rifled. It was the duty of my host to find
the thief or to replace my stolen goods, but I
spared him the trouble. The person of the
guest is also much respected, and no one,, even
an enemy, must molest him whilst under a
host's roof. The story of Genesis xix. i-n is
made plain, and the action of Lot understand-
able, when wre remember the respect the east-
ern has for his guest. Lot refused to give his
guests to the howling Sodomites, offering to
them his two daughters rather than expose his
two visitors to the evil designs of the men of
Sodom. I have ofttimes experienced the bene-
fit of this custom, especially when assailed by
the Turkish official, as recorded in another part
of this book ; he — my host — would rather
offend a member of the government than
allow me, his guest, to be interfered with.

A liberal host keeps his guests well supplied
with coffee, This beverage, taken without
milk or sugar, has many little ways in being
dealt with. No more than a tablespoonful must
be given at a time — to fill one of the tiny cups
would be an insult — and not more than two
pourings out is allowed ; if a third one is given,
it is a decided hint that the receiver is not
wanted and had better get away as soon as

266 CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE

possible, possibly because some enemy or the
avenger of blood is near. This custom, how-
ever, only rules amongst some of the principal
Bedouin tribes. The coffee is generally made
by the host himself ; on no account is a woman
allowed to make it. The green berries are
roasted in a kind of a frying-pan, as required,
and the average amount of coffee for a pint of
water is about four ounces. More often than
not one cup has to serve for a number of peo-
ple ; every one drinks from the same cup without
it being washed.

Hasty Meals

Genesis xii. 2-8; Judges vi. 19: In these
two instances Abraham and Gideon had re-
ceived unexpected visitors. In Abraham's
case he concluded that his visitors had been
turned aside to his tent by hunger; v. 5 very
plainly teaches this, " I will fetch a morsel of
bread, and comfort ye your hearts, after that ye
shall pass on, for therefore are ye come to your
servant." A very real picture of Arab life and
custom this.

Food is never given the traveller early in the
day. The first meal of the Arab is taken
about ten o'clock, so that the journeyer would
lose the best part of the day if he stayed for

CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE 267

breakfast. If a village, encampment, or even
tent is passed, it is quite permissible to turn aside
and rest for a time and have some food. The
Arab women are quick at getting a meal ready.
Dough is kneaded and soon baked ; whilst this
is in process, another is frying eggs, or melting
some fat in which to dip the bread, whilst the
old mother of the host or his eldest wife will be
diving into the recesses of a sack or bundle of
clothes for some very savory morsel wherewith
to flavor the dish being prepared. If time per-
mits, a lamb or kid is brought in from the flock,
killed, dissected, and cooked, and served up in
a very short space of time.

I remember well a hasty meal being prepared
for me. It was in the country south of Beer-
sheba. We had been riding nearly all day and
were hungry. We saw a tent in the distance
and were soon sitting in it. Coffee was made,
bread baked, and a fairly good meal served in
about twenty-five minutes, and in a minute less
than half an hour from the time we had alighted
at the tent we were on our way again. As soon
as we have eaten from what has been provided
we resume our journey. Hearty thanks would be
ill-mannered ; a hurried " May you always have
plenty, if God will ! " is all the payment given for
the kind, ready hospitality of the willing giver.

268 CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE

Feasting

Genesis xxi. 8; xxix. 22 and 27; 1. 10;
Judges xiv. 12 ; Esther i. 5 ; Job ii. 13.

These Scriptures all bear on feasts held on
occasions of weddings, deaths, or some other
time prominent in the lives of those mentioned.
The reader will note that the limit of the time
for rejoicing or otherwise was seven days, and
that time is still observed among the Arabs of
city, village, town, or desert. It may not be
out of place to briefly describe the mode of
procedure on these occasions. First, we read
of a feast being made on the day that Isaac was
weaned. A child is rarely weaned under two
years of age ; ofttimes a child even at three years
may be seen at the breast. Having attained the
age of two years, the child, especially a boy, is
supposed to be able to do without nourishment
from its mother and to take solid food enough
to sustain it. It has passed through the first
stage of life, and having lived to enter the
second stage, it becomes a time of rejoicing.
All the relations and near friends are invited to
a meal, then the neighbors, and any others
that may be around, even strangers, are all
given an open invitation to come in, feast, and
rejoice with the parents because their child has

CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE 269

been weaned. This is kept up for seven days,
and is no small expense to the family, although
made lighter by presents in kind to the fortunate
child passing into a fresh state of its existence.

Other of the references given refer to times
of mourning. The Easterners do not keep their
dead long after death. Climatic influences are
against that custom. On the approach of death
some of the male members of the family go out
to dig a grave. Immediately after death the
body is washed with warm water, wrapped in a
new shroud, and carried out to be buried.

Instances sometimes occur when persons are
buried before they are dead ; having gone off
into a state of collapse, the watchers conclude
that death has taken place. I well remember a
case that occurred in Kerak of a woman that
was buried and resurrected. She had been ill
and suddenly collapsed ; the relatives, thinking
she was dead, carried her out and buried her,
before the husband, who was away, knew what
had occurred. On his return he went to the
grave, and as he sat by it thought he heard
moaning. He scraped away the earth and
stones and found his supposed dead partner
alive and able to speak. The earth is kept off
the body by means of slabs of stone laid
crossways on other stones. The woman was

2/0 CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE

taken back to her home and recovered, and
as far as I know is still alive. I have seen
her many times and talked with her. After
that I had many calls to examine persons to
see if they were really dead, the natives hav-
ing great faith in the stethescope, or, as they
call it, " The Scales of Life."

The short time that has elapsed between
death and burial is so occupied with other
things that mourning to any extent is ex-
cluded, but on returning to the house or tent
the voice of mourning is at once heard. The
men — for a man, not a woman — will give
way to chanting the praises and virtue of the
one dead ; the women will gather in the yard,
or on the roof of the house recently bereaved.
They will join hands and form themselves into
a ring. One, in the centre, will compose lines
on the dead man ; this will in turn be taken up
by the others and sung in unison. Every few
stanzas they will dance round in a circle, the time
and harmony they keep being quite remarkable.
On these getting weary, another batch will take
their place, and so this goes on from early
morning until past midnight. The immediate
relatives of the dead will visit the grave, and wail
and mourn there. These observances are kept
up for seven days, during which time outsiders

CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE 2/1

keep the bereaved family supplied with food,
thus enabling them to be free for the mourning.
If an important personage, such as a chief or
religious head, dies, the usual mourning not
only takes place, but all business and work is
suspended for seven days.

I had practical proof of this on the death of
my wife in Kerak. \Ye could not understand
why the Arabs shunned us at such a time. It
was very noticeable that those that were most
friendly to us did not come near. After a time
they visited us again, and on being asked where
they had been during some days they replied,
" We have spent the days in our houses mourn-
ing the death of the lady; we did not know
your custom at such a time, so have stopped
work, shut our shops, and mourned according
to our own way."

The Arabs east of the Jordan have another
custom which shows a kindly feeling one
toward another. If a man's horse dies, — next
to his eldest son his best companion, — his
neighbor will bring in another horse and put
it in the stall of the dead one and allow it to
remain seven days, thinking in some measure
to make up for the loss of the dead animal.
The women also do something similar when
a baby dies. A relation or friend will give the

272 CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE

bereaved mother their baby to nurse and care
for during seven days ; in that time the parent
is supposed to become reconciled to her loss.

Memory calls up a touching incident that
occurred in our domestic life in Moab. Soon
after our advent into that land my wife had
the misfortune to lose a little one. It soon
became known, and the women were very
grieved about it. A day or two after, a young
chief that had always been kindly disposed
toward us presented himself at our door. I
asked him in ; he entered, and from under his
cloak brought a tiny white lamb. He put it
into my wife's arms, saying, " I am sorry for
your loss, and if I had a baby, would have lent
it to you to care for until you had got over
your grief; I had this lamb, so have brought
it for you to look after, feed, and care for."
He then went away, and next time I saw him
he was dead, having been cruelly murdered by
a hostile tribe near by. A month of mourning
was observed for him, because he was so brave
and generous and such a favorite with all the
people. Not only in the country is seven days
the time for mourning, but also in the towns
of Palestine and Syria.

Marriages are times for rejoicing and feast-
ing, always of seven days' duration. The week

CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE 2/3

previous to the union of the two parties is
wholly given up by the families of each one
to pleasure. The bride and bridegroom, each
in their own homes, are isolated in separate
apartments to receive the congratulations and
presents of relatives, friends, and neighbors.
The males do not visit among the women, that
would be a great breach of etiquette. " Every
kind loves its kind," an Arab proverb, finds its
place at these times. Outside, for seven days,
continual feasting and coffee-drinking is going
on. In a good family, twenty or twenty-five
sheep will be slain to provide food for the
visitors who come to rejoice with the family;
in addition to these, quantities of rice and
wheat will be cooked to fill up the corners.
Fat and grease in abundance speaks much for
the liberality of the contending families. In-
side, among the women, the shy bride has to
undergo daily washings and purifications to
prepare her for the bridegroom. This is the
only good washing she gets during her lifetime,
so a very important time for her, and an arduous
one for those told off to scrub her. The bride-
groom does not get off without his share of
scrubbing ; in addition he is smoked with vari-
ous perfumes to make him sweet. At the end
of the seven days' rejoicings a short religious

274 CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE

service brings a week of hard work to a close,
The circumcision of a boy is also a time of
rejoicing among both sexes. Enough has been
said to show that the seven days of the Bible
has in no way been shortened, proving how
slow has been the advance of civilization
among the descendants of Ishmael. Truly
"They dwell alone" (Jer. xlix. 31).

Buying Land

Genesis xxiii. 17: "And the field, and the
cave which was therein, and all the trees that
were in the field, that were in the borders
thereof, were made sure unto Abraham."

It is very noticeable how particular the
patriarch was in making this bargain. He
might have bought the field, thinking that
with it he was buying all that it contained, but
on coming into possession, and going to pre-
pare the cave for his dead, he would have been
stopped by the late owner, and told, " You only
bought the field, not the cave or trees that are
in the field." So Abraham, in the deeds, had
all in the field and the borders thereof made
sure to him by being written down. It is a
common thing in the East for a man to own
a well in the middle of a garden or field that
belongs to some one else. The well was found

CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE 2/5

by the man who had bought the ground, and
not having been specified in the deeds, the
well, according to custom, belongs to the
former owner of the land. So in buying land
from the Arabs some such terms as the follow-
ing are used : " A buys from B land in such
a place, also all that can be seen on the land,
trees and stones, also all that shall be found
under the ground." This secures to the pur-
chaser all that he finds, even treasure. This
custom makes Abraham's action very under-
standable. An ignoramus would soon be taken
in at buying land in the East ; the seller would
keep quiet so as to get a double benefit. This
transaction, we read, took place in the presence
of witnesses, a very needy precaution in a land
and among a people that do not consider lying
or cheating a sin, and where \vriting and docu-
ments are almost unknown.

Leviticus xix. 14: " Thou shalt not curse the
deaf, nor put a stumbling block before the
blind," is strictly observed by the Arabs of
to-day. Any one afflicted is the object of pity
and special care, and many of the mistakes
made by any that are afflicted are always over-
looked because of their infirmity.

Deuteronomy xxiv. 20 : " When thou beatest
thine olive tree, thou shalt not go over the

2/6 CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE

boughs again ; it shall be for the stranger, for
the fatherless, and for the widow."

This command, given to the children of
Israel three thousand years ago, is still obeyed
by the fortunate possessors of olive trees. The
olive harvest commences in November. The na-
tives go to the groves armed with sticks or bam-
boos, ladders, baskets, and sacks. Some of the
men go up into the tree, and give it a good
beating, causing the berries to fall on the
ground ; the women and children pick them up
and put them in sacks and baskets. A return
to the tree is not made ; what is left on or under
it is for the poor. The olive forms part of
the food of the Eastern, and a family owning
one or two olive trees is fortunate indeed.

Deuteronomy xxiii. 24, 25: "When thou
comest into thy neighbor's vineyard, then thou
mayest eat thy fill at thine own pleasure, but
thou shalt not put any in thy vessel. When
thou comest into the standing corn of thy
neighbor, then thou mayest pluck the ears
with thine hand ; but thou shalt not move a
sickle unto thy neighbor's standing corn."

To eat grapes, or parch nearly ripe corn, is
quite permissible in the gardens or fields of
the Arabs ; none will forbid you, but you
must carry none home, except it be given you.

AN ARAB FIDDLER

The Arabs have two kinds of music. This picture shows a youth playing a one-stringed
fiddle, which is homemade. The other instrument is a double flute made from fine bamboos,
and generally played by the shepherds when tending their flocks.

WOMEN GRINDING AT THE MILL

Steam mills among the Arabs are unknown. The women grind the flour as they need it.
The mill consists of two stones, the upper revolving on the lower. The mill is fed through
a hole in the center. It is considered a disgrace for a man to grind at the mill.

CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE 2/7

Grinding at the Mill

Part of a woman's work is to grind the flour
for daily use. No house or tent is without its
hand-mill, and although everything else was
stolen or bought from a dwelling or family, Deu-
teronomy xxiv. 6 would be strictly observed,
" No man shall take the mill to pledge, for he
taketh a man's life to pledge." An expression
of hard times is conveyed by saying, " The mill
is silent," meaning, of course, that there is
nothing to grind. House mills are of two
kinds, those turned by the women and those
turned by a donkey. In the latter case the
beast is blindfolded so that he may not become
giddy by having to go round a circle. It is
considered a disgrace for a man to grind at the
mill, hence the humiliating spectacle of Samson
at the mill in the prison-house, fitted for such
work by having had his eyes put out.

Yearly Lamentations

Judges xi. 39 : " And it was a custom in
Israel that the daughters of Israel went yearly
to lament the daughter of Jephthah the Gil-
eadite four days in a year." Visits to shrines
form an important part in the life of an Arab.
Every district has a shrine devoted to some

2/8 CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE

saint or great personage that was supposed to
have had unusual power in bestowing special
blessings. These places are called " meezars,"
or " willeys," and anything deposited near them
is perfectly safe — supposed to be under the pro-
tection of the saint of the shrine. It is quite
a common sight to see tents, sacks of corn,
ploughs, etc., left near these places ; no one
would risk the wrath of the spirit by removing
any of these deposits.

Yearly visits are made to these shrines, and
special blessings asked upon the family or flocks
of the visitor to the shrine. Each section of
the Mohammedans has shrines to those whom
they most revere and whose teaching they fol-
low, but there are a few shrines to which all go
and either keep feast or make lamentations.

Some of the principal shrines in Palestine
and Arabia are those of Moses near the Jordan;
Aaron on the summit of Mount Hor in Edom ;
the prophets, Samuel, Jonah, and Reuben. The
cave of Machpelah at Hebron is an important
shrine to both Moslems and Jews alike. The
burying-place of Mohammed at Medina, in
Arabia, is, of course, the most important to
every follower of the Arabian messenger.

This chapter plainly demonstrates that the
customs and practices in vogue thousands of

CUSTOMS SUBSTANTIATING SCRIPTURE 2/Q

years ago and in constant use to-day by these
isolated, semi-civilized people, goes a very long
way toward substantiating the accounts of
events and other things recorded in the Scrip-
tures. The little advance made by civilization
in Arabia has helped to preserve in detail and
continuation many other interesting customs
not dealt with in these pages, but all too com-
mon among the descendants of Ishmael.

CHAPTER XXIV

ARABIA IN ITS RELATION TO THE BIBLE

ARABIA, though chiefly an arid, sandy
desert, is a country of much biblical and
historical interest. It extends from west to
east, commencing at the mouth of the Nile in
Lower Egypt, to the Euphrates and Persian
Gulf, a distance of about a thousand miles, and
fourteen hundred miles from the Arabian Gulf
to Syria in the north. The Arabs make two
great divisions of their land ; the northern
which they call Sham, or " the left," and the
southern called Yemen, or " the right." But
geographers have divided it into three separate
regions : Arabia Deserta, Arabia Petrea, and
Arabia Felix.

The ancient Hebrews denominated this
region "the east country" (Gen. xxv. 6), and
its inhabitants " the children of the east "
(Judg. vi. 3; Job i. 3; i K. iv. 30; Isa. ii. 14).
By Arabia they only meant a small district of
the country now so called (Ezek. xxvii. 21;
2 Chron. xxi. 16, 17). Thus the Arabians are

280

ARABIA IN ITS RELATION TO THE BIBLE 281

placed in connection with the Philistines (2
Chron. xxvi. 7). By " all the kings of Arabia "
(i K. x. 15; Jer. xxv. 24), we may understand
the chiefs of wandering tribes who lived in
tents. When the Apostle Paul speaks of having
visited Arabia (Gal. i. 17), some imply that the
country near Damascus is intended, others in-
sist on Edom being the part visited. Which-
ever is right, Arabia is included, and when he
speaks of Sinai in Arabia (Gal. iv. 25), he used
the name in its extended signification.

Arabia is supposed to be so called from
Arabah, that is, the desert, a district in Idumea.
In Deuteronomy ii. 8, we read of the way of
"the plain " in connection with Elath and Ezion-
geber; in the original it is Ha-Arabah. As the
Ishmaelitish inhabitants wandered over the ad-
joining territories, the name became extended
to them also. The Arabah consists of a great
valley, deep, dreary, and desolate, beginning at
Elath and Ezion-geber and extending to the
Dead Sea, which is called "the sea of the plain,"
or Arabah, in Deuteronomy iv. 49 and Joshua
iii. 1 6.

The parts of the country bordering on Pales-
tine and Egypt were originally peopled by
Cush, the son of Ham, hence Cush became a
general name for Arabian and African Ethiopia.

282 ARABIA IN ITS RELATION TO THE BIBLE

The pure Arabs trace their descent to Jok-
tan, or Kahtan, the son of Heber of the pos-
terity of Noah. Moses mentions thirteen sons
of Joktan (Gen. x. 26-29), several of whose
names are identified by Niebuhr and others with
the provinces and towns of Southern Arabia.
A native who can clearly trace his genealogy in
this line is called "an Arab of the Arabs" to
mark the purity of his descent. A third class,
and probably those more generally found in
these days, are the descendants of Ishmael,
whose sons became twelve princes according to
their nations in fulfilment of the Divine promise
to Abraham in Genesis xvii. 20. Others of
the tribes sprang from the second wife of Abra-
ham, Keturah by name.

The whole of these tribes is divided into
two classes, the Arab-el-mudn, the dwellers in
houses, and the Bedouin, whose habitation is
the " house of hair," so called because the tent-
cloth is composed of goat's hair, which is spun
and woven by the women. This latter class
lives entirely in the wilderness and desert, tend-
ing their numerous flocks and herds, and to a
considerable degree they maintain the pro-
phetic declaration, " He will be a wild man ;
his hand will be against every man, and every
man's hand against him " (Gen. xvi. 1 2).

ARABIA IN ITS RELATION TO THE BIBLE 283

Arabia Deserta is mostly an extensive desert,
with scarcely enough vegetation to support the
camels by which it is traversed, and with only
a few brackish springs and pools of water.
Here and there on the highlands large cities are
found around which palm groves and gardens
have been cultivated. No river or perennial
stream blesses Arabia Deserta, bringing fertility
to its barren stretches and life to its isolated
dwellers. The desert is encircled or intersected
by barren mountains, with summits rising in
rugged peaks. The air is dry, and whole years
occasionally pass without rain. Scripture gives
an impressive picture of Arabia, " a land of
deserts and of pits, a land of drought and of
the shadow of death, a land that no man
passeth through, and where no man dwelt " (Jer.
ii. 6). A large portion of the country is to
the present day but little known, and awaits
the advent of the pioneer missionary, who of
all pioneers should be the first one to cross
and recross that isolated land.

Arabia Petrea or Rocky Arabia derives its
name from Petra, " the rock," from the many
rocky districts found within its limits. To
this wild but interesting region belongs a
reverence which no other part of the earth,
Judea excepted, can claim. It was the theatre

284 ARABIA IN ITS RELATION TO THE BIBLE

of many awful and extraordinary events re-
corded in Jewish history, the sacred emi-
nence of Sinai, on whose cloudy summit the
deity made his pavilion of darkness when
he first issued a system of written laws to
the human race ; Horeb, with its burning bush
and its caves, which gave shelter to Elijah when
he fled from Jezebel ; the pastoral solitudes,
where the Jewish deliverer, then an exile from
Egypt, kept the flocks of Jethro, the priest of
Midian ; Shur and Paran, with the bitter wells
of Marah, and the smitten rock that yielded
water ; the land of Uz, the scene of the wealth
and woes of Job, of the trial of his patience and
the triumph of his piety ; all these locations are
comprehended within the geographical limita-
tions of Arabia Petrea.1

Arabia Felix, or " the Happy " is so called
because of its superior fertility. It is moun-
tainous, well watered, and yields good crops of
grain, coffee, and fruit. The present inhabit-
ants of the land are in a state of poverty, owing
to many years of drought and the heavy taxa-
tion of the Turkish government. In Arabia
Felix, or, as it is better known, Yemen, thou-
sands of Jews reside, having had their settle-
ments there for many centuries.

iCrichton's "Arabia."

ARABIA IN ITS RELATION TO THE BIBLE 285

Among the people who did and who still
occupy the three great divisions of Arabia the
following are the most considerable : —

i. The Edomites. The country of the chil-
dren of Esau, " who is Edom," after he " went
from the face of his brother Jacob," was at
Mount Seir, an elevated tract stretching from the
southern point of the Dead Sea to the Gulf of
Ezion-geber. Its earliest inhabitants were the
Horims, or dwellers in caves (Deut. ii. 12, 22).
It was in after ages called, by the Greeks and
Romans, Idumea. The Edomites were a war-
like race, and gradually spread eastward and
southward over an extensive country. They
established several ports on the Red Sea, which
were taken by David, and the kingdom of
Edom was annexed to his house, until it re-
volted in the days of Jehoram (2 Chron. xxii.
8-10).

About one hundred and fifty years before the
' Christian era, the Edomites were again subdued,
and were from that time gradually incorporated
among the Jewish people, and their national
name became extinct. The land which once
contained many cities and villages, and was
the emporium of the commerce of the East, is
now one of the most inaccessible parts of the
Orient.

286 ARABIA IN ITS RELATION TO THE BIBLE

The chief city, Petra, — probably the Jok-
theel of Scripture, — was situated in a deep
ravine, or defile of rocks, which rises on either
side to a vast height and forms a remarkable
natural citadel of defence. In these rocks,
reaching many hundred feet in height, are cut
many of the dwellings and sepulchres of its
former inhabitants, fully justifying their being
compared to eagles' nests. Silence and ob-
scurity hung over the ruins of this rock-hewn
city for ages, until they were brought to light
by Burckhardt early in the nineteenth century,
and later by Laborde and Robinson. The
writer has six times visited these interesting
ruins, no doubt breaking any record concern-
ing visits to Petra.

The Edomites were in all ages hostile to
the Hebrews ; hence, by a figure of speech, the
enemies of the true Israel of God are designated
Edomites.

2. The Moabites. The land inhabited by
the descendants of the eldest son of Lot is
on the east of Jordan and the Dead Sea; its
history is very closely connected with the chil-
dren of Israel. The people formed a powerful
tribe, though too feeble to offer resistance to the
progress of the Hebrews when on their way to
Canaan. They, however, succeeded, conjointly

PHAROAH'S TREASURY, THE MASTERPIECE OF EDOM

This temple is cut from the rock, which is of rose-pink color. It is over eighty feet high
and more than two thousand years old. It contains three chambers, one thirty-five feet
square, and two twenty-five feet square. Its sheltered position has preserved the elegant
carving -from i destruction by the weather. The Arabs call this temple " the treasury of
i'naroah. No one knows for what purpose this elaborate excavation was used.

ARABIA IN ITS RELATION TO THE BIBLE 287

with the Midianites, in enticing the children of
Israel into idolatry and sin (Num. xxv). Their
capital city was Ar, or Rabbath Moab, on the
south side of the great gorge of Mojeb, through
which flows the Arnon. By the Greeks it was
called Areopolis, or "the city of Mars." Its
ruins are very extensive and fairly well pre-
served.

The citadel or stronghold of Moab was Kir,
now known as Kerak, where the writer of these
pages lived for many years. The prophet Isaiah
describes many of the chief towns of Moab as
grieving over the conquest and desolation of the
country, caused by the invasion of the Assyrians.

3. The Amalekites had their possessions on
the west of Edom-; they were called in the
prophecy of Balaam " the first of the nations "
(Num. xxiv. 20). They are described as occupy-
ing the whole region from Shur in Egypt to
Havilah, or the Persian Gulf (i Sam. xv. 7).

4. The Midianites were the descendants of
Abraham and Keturah, through their son Mid-
ian ; they settled near Mount Horeb. A con-
siderable part of their land was traversed by the
Israelites on their way from Egypt to Canaan.
There was a division or class of this people who
were the allies of Moab (Num. xxii. 4, 5), and
were overthrown by Gideon (Judges vi).

288 ARABIA IN ITS RELATION TO THE BIBLE

5. The Ammonites, the offspring of Ben-
Amomi, the son of Lot, inhabited the country
between the rivers Arnon and Jabbok. They
were driven by the Amorites more to the east.
These people were in constant hostility with
the Israelites, and against them Jeremiah,
Amos, Ezekiel, and Zephaniah were directed
to prophesy. Their name disappears from his-
tory before the birth of Christ ; they no doubt
were merged into one of the great Arab tribes
among whom they lived.

6. The Ishmaelites. Nebajoth and Kedar
were the two eldest sons of Ishmael (Gen. xv.
13); the former gave the name to the region
about Mount Hor ; the latter wandered far into
the desert, and abode in tents made of black
goat's hair, hence the expression in Songs of
Solomon i. 5, " black as the tents of Kedar."
They are rich in herds (Isa. Ix. 7), and were
expert and warlike archers (Isa. xxi. 16, 17;
Ps. cxx. 5, 7) ; Dumah, the third son of Ish-
mael, directed his way to the east, near the Per-
sian Gulf. A prophecy was directed against
his descendants (Isa. XXL n). Tema, the ninth
son (Gen. xxv. 15), is spoken of in Isaiah xxi.
14, in connection with the caravans of Dedan.

The other sons of Ishmael spread over that
part of Arabia which lies south of Palestine,

ARABIA IN ITS RELATION TO THE BIBLE 289

going as far as Shur, near Egypt, with which
latter country they carried on commerce as
early as the days of Jacob (Gen. xxxvii. 25,
xxxix. i).

The names of the twelve sons of Ishmael are
perpetuated in tribes, families, villages, and
districts still existing in Arabia,

7. The Kenites, a .tribe of Arabs dwelling
near or among the Amalekites in the south-
west part of Arabia Petrea. They showed
kindness to the children of Israel when they
came out of Egypt, and in return, Saul, when
he went against the Amalekites, desired them
to withdraw, that they might not share the fate
of his enemies (Num. xxiv. 20, 21 ; i Sam. xv. 6).

CHAPTER XXV

A LOOK AHEAD

IN a closing word, let me say that I hope
my "'Ventures among the Arabs " are not
yet over. I have told what it means to pioneer
in the land of the Arab. Every year will make
such work easier, and every journey will mean less
opposition, and the more seen by the Arab of
Protestant Christianity in contrast to the Chris-
tianity of the Orient, so much more will misun-
derstanding, prejudice, and fanaticism lessen.

Of necessity, mission work in Arabia must
for some time mean isolation, hardship, danger,
and it may be death, but such always precede
the success and ultimate triumph of the gospel,
as illustrated by Judson in India, and Calvert
among the cannibal of the South Seas.

Mission stations, churches, and congregations
may not for a time be established in Arabia, but
that should not hinder the obeying of the March-
ing Orders.

" Go ye into all the world and preach," and
thus by faithful witnessing, constant preaching,

290

A LOOK AHEAD 29!

and the distribution of the Word, the Arabs of
tent and town may be gradually won for Jesus
Christ, as the Africans were by Mackay's faithful-
ness and the Chinese by Piercey's persistency.

The work that has been represented in these
pages has been partly independent. Organized
societies have rarely supported pioneer move-
ments in their initiative stages. The conse-
crated means of God's people have again and
again been put at the disposal of the pioneer
and used for the opening up of new lands, so it
seems to me it must be in the case of neglected
Arabia. If some such result comes from read-
ing this book, my labor in writing it will not
have been in vain.

God has thus far used me, and knowing well
the terrible need, my heartfelt desire is, with the
cooperation of others, to consummate the worlc

The opportunity to evangelize Ishmael is
given us. Doors long closed are slowly open-
ing, the years fast going by, and the arduous
work still undone. Reader,

"This matter belongeth unto thee " (Ezra x. 4).
For the time is not far distant when,

"The night shall be filled with music,
And the cares that infest the day,
Shall fold their tents, like the Arabs,
And as silently steal away."

2Q2 A LOOK AHEAD

The prayerful interest of the reader for the
success of "'Ventures among the Arabs," past
and prospective, will be much appreciated.

Communications may be addressed to

MR. A. FORDER,

Care Austrian P. O.y

Jerusalem* Palestine,
or to the publishers.

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Full text of "'Ventures among the Arabs in desert, tent, and town, thirteen years of pioneer missionary life with the Ishmaelites of Moab, Edom and Arabia"

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