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VICTORIA, 
MELBOURNE IN 1869. 



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PREFACE. 



T0WABD8 the end of tlie year 1863j I omTecl in 
Melbourne from Sydney. I was greatly Btruck, at 
the time, with the appearance of Melboome, bat my 
stay there was bo short, that however much inclined 
to do so, I had no opportunity of studying tiie Yic- 
torian capital in detail, or of looking over the in- 
terior of the colony. However, time passed away, 
tmtil the beginning of 1869j when I found myself 
once more at Melbourne on a second visit. On this 
oooasion I was en route for England, but with ample 
leisure to examine minutely whatever seemed most to 
demand the notice of a stranger. 

Accordingly I began my tour of inspection with 
Melboome itself, including the environs ; after which 
I proceeded to several of the more important parts of 
the interior, including the gold-fields. Thus my pro- 
ject was carried out on a tolerably extensive scale. I 
came into contact with whatever was most note- 
worthy, and was brought faoe to iVtce with the great 
internal resources of a colony whose fame is already 
known in the most remote oomers of the world. Of 
a 
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the wealth and prosperity of Victoria I had, of 
course, heard much in commoii with thousands of 
other colonista in the neighbouring settlementSj but 
of its vast resources — of its rapid oommeroial pro- 
gress — I could Dot have formed any adequate idea : 
they altogether exceeded my expectations. 

Under this aspect, it appeared to me desirable 
that matters of fact, of so much importance to the 
world at large, should be made generally known to 
those more especially concerned in what is called the 
material progress of the age. I am not aware that 
any work has previously appeared, which treats, in a 
Bucciuct form, of the colony of Victoria as a whole, 
from the several points of view from ^hich I have 
considered it. I venture therefore to think that this 
little work will help to fill np a gap, and to supply a 
want, at a time when our relationships with the 
colonies are constantly under disoossion (sometuues 
in a very desultory fashion, displaying lack of know- 
ledge) and when the question of emigration is re- 
.oeiving an ajnonnt of public attention not bestowed 
iqran it at any former period within my memory. 
Sach at least were the impressions produced npoo 
my mind on my arrival in England, — where I soon 
learned that the distress I had read of had of late 
become a^p-avated ; that trade had been langnishiag; 
that the relationships with the colonies had become 

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somewbst critical, and that tlie minda of thousaads 
of artizans, labonrerSj and others thrown out of em- 
ployment, were tnmed towards emigration as the 
only effective agency for providing what may be 
termed (in a non-parochial sense) " permanent out- 
door relief" fiirthesarplaspopalatioDof the Empire. 
On ■ becoming folly acquainted with the actnal 
state of afiairs I no longer hesitated to publish 
the resnlta of my observations in Victoria. If 
the facta thai came under my notice appeared 
to me, a colonist of old standing, to be strilc- 
ing and remarkable, how much more surprising, 
I thought, must they be to the ordinary reader, who 
has no personal knowledge of colonial life. One 
great obstacle to the progress of emigration has been 
the absolute ignorance • and apathy that are to be 
found among the mass of Englishmen respecting 
the colonies. They bestow no thought upon them, 
snob as they freely give to the sensational topics of 
the day. They do not " body forth to their mind'a eye" 
the great fact that we possess colonies — territories 
of boundless ei:tent, with soil and climate equal to 
those of England : they do not dwell upon the sub- 
ject with sufficient persistence to enable them to 
picture to themselves, as an objective reality, the 
outlines — ^the form and features — of a great colonial 
Brnpite. 



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In the sketch which I have drawn of the colony 
of Victoria, I have studied correctness of outline 
rather than pictorial effect. My aim haa been to 
state facts and results, and to enable the reader to 
Bee the country as I saw it myself. I might easily 
have given objects a certain couleur de rose tint had 
I been so minded ; but it will be found that I have 
shown both sides erf" the picture — the dark as well 
as the bright surface. I have no personal or pe- 
cuniary interest in the colony. My principal object 
has been to call the attention of the public to the 
importance of the Australasian colonies generally, as 
adjuncts and outposts of the British Empire. And 
more especially to help forward the work of emigra- 
tion, in which I have always taken a lively interest, 
believing that it is the most, effectual means of re- 
lieving the distress that most always prevail in a 
densely peopled country of limited area — that has 
no longer space left for its redundant population. 

LOHDOM, Harch, 1870. 



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CONTENTS. 



iBTBOPronOTT: — Q^EITEBAI. BbMARES — AUSTBAI.I1. 

— ViOTOBiA — Poet Phillip — Comfakiboit of 

GOUNTBIBS . . . . .1 

CHAPTEE n. 
Abbital at Post Phillip Heads — The Has- 
B0I7B — The Yabba Tabba — OuB Hotel — 

BeFLECTIOHB oh the OBEAT PBOOBBae OP 

Helboubite — Sketob of the OBTOm abd 
bafid bish of viotoeia ahb its capital— 
Bauwats — The Pdblio Debt — Iupobtahoi 
of ylctobia ab a sepekdbkox op the eu- 

FIBB . . . 7 

CHAPTEE in. 
Melboubkx AMD ITS Stbeetb — Sbwebaob— The 
3iTE of Melbodbke abd itb Subdbbb — Hot 
"Wnroa— Cabs amd Cabmeh — The Pdblio 
Mabset, boexe thebb OS A Satubsat biqht 
— Cheap Mitttos , , . ,20 



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CHAPTER IV. 
Beuabeb 09 EinaBLiTTB -Hot Winds : tbkib 

BTVeCTS — &A.TE8 OF WaOBS ABD FbICB OF 
FbOTIBIOITS — BiCESSITK COSBUUPTIOIT OF 
ABDEHT SpIBITS — EDEAI/TH OF THE CoLOKIBTa 

— Atxbaox Moktautt — Met.boitbite Csta- 
TBET — The " WELCOioi NcaQET " — The 
"Welcome Stbaitobb" — A Foetukb fob 
TWO poob Mbh .... 

CHAPTER V. 
The Theatbk Botal — ^Thb Bkpbbshueht Babs : 

IlI0n>XirT8 OUTBIOK — GhDIBSII POPCLATIOir — 
GhIHBSB JoSB-HOnSE — ChUTESE CABVIRa — No 
GHABeS FOB ASUISBION — FASHIONABLE PbO- 

UIHADBS StXLB OF DbESS — PuBLIC PaBKS — 

Th£ TaBBA TaBBA — BOTABIOAL G-ABDES8 — 

SczniBT OF Studlet Fabe Airs the Tabu. 



GHAPTER VI. 

Pdblio BuixsiKaa — The CiraTou HoraE — 
Tbka^ubt — FABLiAicEirr House ~ Nttubeb 
OF Mekbebb — QuALiFiOATioira of Votebb— 
Thx Post Oifioe — JVEosbtth of Sciri.pTt;BK 
AKD PAnrraro— The Fbbe Ltbeabi— Bduoa- 
Tioir ... ... 



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CHA1?TEE Vn. 

-WuAJAxmaw — H 

UTAPPBOPBIATSIiY SO CU.LXD — TeK TaS 

Ybajx Bebestoib : thk Boad to rr and two 
TuBiTFixES— Tbk Besbbtoib; hb appeab- 
AWOK — Its CoBSTBFtfnoir ahd Cost — St. 

ElLBA, BbIOHTOB, and QsEITaOIIFT, AB 

VATEsraa PLACEa . . . .85 

CHAPTEE Vni. 
A Staet iob the Ihtebiob — The Railttat Sta- 
TioH— &BELOKe— The Coumtbt to Lal Lal — 

BAiLABAT— Goia> IN THE BOASa, AlTD GOU> 
VNOBB THE StBEETB AND HoTTBES — AfPEAB- 

ANcB or Ballabat — Svbeace BiaoiNes — 
Beep Sinking — The Ooldeit 'Btteb-bbs 
rNDXESBorND — Sebabtopol — The MiNnre 
Sttbubb — Its VNucTiTiire appeababce. 09 

CHAPTEE DC. 
Ballabat Mintno Companibb — Fbinoe op 
■Wales Gold Mining Compant, limitbd; 

NaTUBB op THEIB trSDEBaBOCND WOBKB — 

Shaptb and Tuhnklb — The Wobkb abote 
eBouHD— FuDDLiso Opebatkhtb — Wabhths 
AND Gold colleothio — Besultb— Debobip- 
TioN op the QaABTZ-CBUBHurei Psocbbb — 
Gold Btttihg : Deception — A Soknx at 
the Minebs' Hxchanse — East Ballakat . 118 



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CHAPTER X. 

A CO^OH-BIDE AOBOBB THE CoTTHTBT — Mr TSL- 
lOT-TRATBLLEBa — SlGQIHea IIT THR ViASeEB 

CbEBITIOE — A TOICAHIO rABHIlI« CotTHTET 

CaBTLBUAIKB — MOBQinTOEtl ECEUCA ; ITB 

PKODI.UBITIEB ASD PO8ITI0II — A BTBOLIi 

nTTO THB Anii.ouf't BrsH LAinra — Msn 

TTITH TWO* rtSV " CHDUB " ABD AK OLD 
HAND— A COTIASB IN A WOOD — ^THK OU) 
Mau'B TALB — AtTSTBAUAN BBABBT FlilJNB 
Alts BrBH — ArBTBAIiIAN TiMBBB, AND HXAT 
BZPEBIEKGXB ..... 

CHAPTEE XI. 

The 8BEAT Attbtbauait Eitxb — The Fsrbt — 
The Portoob BsisaB — FLooro nr the Mub- 

RAT — FbOBFECTB 07 A BaII.WAT BETWEEN StD- 
HBT AND MXLBDITBNE — TBS BiTBB StEAICBBB 
AND THE PebBTUAN — DiSOOTBBI OF THE 
MUBBAT BT SritBT — HiB ADTBHTimOITfl 

Fabbaoe — A Bow OS the Biteb — A Snah 
nr the WAT — A sanoeb bubhounted 

MIAPTEE XII, 

OvxB the MTTBBAr iBTo Nbw South "Wales — 
Fbeb Selxctobb' Land — The Fobebt Tbbeb 
—A Fbee Sxlbctob'b Houe — The Fabheb's 



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CONTSHTB. Xai 

WiTB ABD Fabmhtg OpEKATioira — Laud the 

COTBTKD PBIZE — ACSBAGB OP ViCTOEIA 

Lum Bbgulatioitb — Gu.saiPic&TioH' op the 
Labs in thi; Coloitt . . 169 

CHAPTEB XTTT . 
A BoiLDTG-Dowif Statics in thb Bush — Bhexp 

BI^nBHTEBIKQ — BoiXUfe THEM DOWN — EX- 

TKAornia the Tallow pkoh iheh — Mriioir- 
rsD Pioa — Cost op BoiLiBO-rowN — GrarsBAL 
OBSi^ATioira — ^ZicPOBiAircx oi Iboioatioh 160 

CHAPTEB XIV. 
The CovBTBr betwebit Echuoa aits SAtrsHirBST 

— SaTTDHUBBT — A BOEITB OP DE80LATI0F 

ABorT IT — This the gaitee op itb W^ealth 

— A PLEABANT PLACE, WITH A FAUILIAB 

IfAUE — Leave SASsmrBav roB CABTLEMAnrB 
Airs Melbouhbs— Ibibh Sbttlebb inrMEBOiTB 

— A Cosaip IS A Eauwai Oakbiasb — 
Opimiohb op a Viotobias CoLosiST— What 
Viotobiah Coloniitb hate dose fob theu- 

8BLTB8 — BsaLISH UIBAfPBEHBVaiOS OP Avt' 
IBiXIAS COLOSISTB — ThE DvKX OF BsiSBIfBOH 

— Ofisiosb on Colonial ass Xmpebial 

KELATIOBB — AsPBOT OP A BiTBAL DiSTBICT 

— GeHEBAL B.EMABEB .... 178 



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OBaEBVATIONS AND SUGGESTIONS ON 
EMIGfiAa:iON. 

IsTEODncTOBr BsuAssB— The "Wakt of Bfi- 

flOXUEKT iHD ITS OiUBKB— EmIGKATION So- 

cutim— What shoiiij> be tiqkib uxmura " 
AiH — Gbbai Bbitaik atFd hibvColokibb 

EQITALLT INTEBBSTXD IK EhISBATIOIT — ''A 

GoTiBKicxirr EuiaBATioir Boabd— Hoir t||e 

GOTZBMUEirT IfiaHT QITB ABBIBTAITCX — YlS* ■ 
TOBUK GoTIBirUENT ASBIBTAIfOBi TO Eui- 

SBAKTB — Bates fob EuiaBATios, FABoeHiAL 
AVD National — Dhiqbabtb cotttetbd bt 
STEAH-SHIPB — CoirCLUBIOB , . . 191 



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1 



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MAP OF 
THE PROVDfCE OF 

VII€^(D)IEI[A 

1870. 



J 



S^MMi Of'SiafJJj^^ 



MELBOUENE IN 1869. 



CHAPTER I. 



ISTBODUCnOK — GBHER4L EBMAKKB — AU8TEALI1 — TIC- 
TOKIA — POET PHILLIP— COMPABI30N OP COUNTBISS. 

Acfioss the Beae, at the antipodes, in the Sonthem 
Hemisphere, lies a conntiy nearly as lai^ as Enrope, 
called Australia. It is in this island-continent — 
where the sky ia bright, the air pure and clear- 
where the sun shines with Italian fervour, and where 
perpetual Bummer seema to reign (for the trees re- 
tain their verdnre in the winter), that millions of 
acres of land of virgin fertility await the hand of 
man to give forth their riches, in the shape of wheat, 
wine, and wool, anfficient at once to feed and to 
clothe in abundance the surplus population of ell 
Europe — even if they niunhered miUiona. 

In this land of sunshine, the vine-growers of 
Germany, the wheat-growers of England, shepherds 
from the Scottish hills, and labourers and artizans 
from the overcrowded factory towns and rural 
districts of Great Britain, may vie with, and mu- 
tually assist each other in founding new settle- 

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mentB and comfortable homes in the midst of plenty 
and general prosperity. This wonderful land pro- 
dnces gold, too, in larger qoantities, I ventore to 
say, than any other country in the world. The 
ezigtence of the precious metal in the soil has been 
a source of incalculable advantage ; and to Aus- 
tralia itself the results have been something marvel- 
lous. The ground, however, yields but one crop of 
gold : the first crop is the last. No amount of 
ploughing, sowing, or chemical hnsbandry, can 
produce a harvest of gold ; but fertile land, or land 
of aven^ fertility, nnder proper cultivation, is 
virtually inexhaustible : it will always grow crops. 
Towns and cities may cease to exist — nations may 
disappear— but the land remains to supply ma- 
terial for the production of food and clothing, and 
for the habitations of men so long as the world 
endures. 

What a stimulus to the poor unaspiring European 
labourer op artizan, "cribbed, cabined and con- 
fined" in his native home, would be the prospect of 
becoming the owner of a sung freehold estate of his 
own ! What good resolution^, what energy, would be 
summoned np, and what visions of future Arcadian 
happiness would flit before his imagination ! The ac- 
quisition of freehold land however is merely a dream 
which can never be realized by ninety-nine out ©f 



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IKTBOUrCTOBY SXUASE8. 3 

every handred men in the Umted Kingdom, tmder 
the peculiar ciroamstanceB by -which they are snr- 
roanded in their oum country. It ia a dream, never- 
theless, which may become a reality under certain 
conditions : — the saving of a few ponnds (by careful, 
and if need be, by rigid aelf-denial for a few years), 
and a brief sea voyage, may ensm^ the coveted 
prize. Tens of thousands of the hardy sons of toil, 
if they will only be sober and iuduatrions — if they 
will only put their shouldef to the wheel — if they 
will apply all their energies to a single point, with 
a purpose (and will save np), may eventoally become 
the owners of real property, either in Australia or 
in Kew Zealand. With natural advantages, equal in 
proportion to its territorial extent to those pos- 
Beased by Australia (as regards the production of 
wheat, wool, and gold), with a cooler and moister 
climate, and with unrivalled natural scenery. New 
Zealand, the Northern Island in particular, only 
awaits the eBtablisbment of peace with the natives, 
to open her ports and her lands to the fiiU and 
ever-flowing tide of immigration. 

It may justly be urged that these lands are dis- 
tant — a fact which cannot be gainsaid. At the 
same time it must not be forgotten that clipper 
ships will make the passage, say to Victoria, the 
most southerly part of Australia, in about ninety 



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days on an average ; while powerful steunera, nnder 
canvas and steam, will accomplish the transit ia 
sixty days or thereabonts.* 

Australia is divided into five colonieSj or provinces, 
each with a separate and independent government 
and legislature, namely r— Qneensland, New Sonth 
Wales, Victoria, Sonth Australia, and Western 
Australia. Tasmania, an island of considerable 
extent, forms a sixth colony, located oflF the southern 
extremity of Victoria. As I purpose, bowev,er, as s 
mle, to speak only of what came imder my own 
observation, during my visit, my remarks will be 
confined to the colony of Victoria. 

Victoria forms the most southern portion of 
Australia. Its capital ia the city of Melbourne, 
which, together with its harbour. Port Phillip, stands 
recessed in the centre of the southern shores of the 
colony. In territorial extent, Victoria is the smal- 
lest of the Australian colonies ; but it is the richest 
in available land and mineral products when con- 
Eidered in relation to its area. It is held to be the 
moat wealthy, important, and prosperous colony in 
the southern hemisphere. 

Its principal harbour. Port Phillip, was discovered 
as recently as 1802 ; and so little was known of the 

• While I WM in Melbourne thfl clipper ship Tbermopyln arrived 
ODt ia 62 dajB under ebiI aloce. 



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COUFABiaOH OT COUKTBTSS. 5 

conntry around it, that thongh a porfcion of it near 
the mouth of "the barbouc was selected, in the year 
1803, as the site of a convict settlement, yet it was 
(very fortunately) considered by Governor Collins 
as unfit for even this inferior purpose, and accord- 
iugly, the following year, the place was abandoned, 
the pend settlement being removed to Van Die- 
men's Land, now called Tasmania. For thirty 
years after this event, what has proved to be one of 
the richest countries in the world was virtually 
"condemned" — shut out from colonization; and 
remained neglected, and almost unknown, to the 
civilized world. 

A3 the size and extent of a conntry is best nader- 
Btood by comparison with others, it may afford a 
better idea of the territory of Victoria, if I give 
the area in square miles of this colony, in juxta- 
position with that of several weU-known countries, 
■q. milee. sq. miles. 

86,831 



89,644 



Victoria - 


. 


England 


. 50,922 


Wales 


- 7,398 


Scotland - 


-.26,321 


Scottish Isles - 


- 6,000 


Total - 


. 


Italy (withoat the islands of Sicily 




! 



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Italy (with all its islands) - 120^000 

NewZealand - - - 108,498* 

Australia proper itself constitutes the fifth great 

division of the world, and is estimated to cover the 

enonnona area of abont thi-ee millious of sqoare 

miles. 

* Eeitli Joliiutoii'a Onzetteer. 



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ABBITAL AT POST PBILUF HEADS — THE HASBOUB — TBE 
TAEEA TAK&A — OOB HOTEL — BEPLBCnONS ON THE 
GBEAT PROOBESS OF MELBODBNE — SKETCH Or THB 
OBiaiN AND RAPID RISE OE TICTOHU AND ITS CAPITAL 
— BAILWAT8 — THE PXTBLIC DEBT — IMPOETAHCB OF TIC- 
TOBIA AS A DEPBNDENCT OF THE EUPIBE. 

So much for a cnrsoiy glance at Victoria. And 
now for a brief account of what I saw and did during 
my sojourn witMn its limits. We arrived off Port 
Phniip Heads by steamer in the early part of January, 
1869. The weather was calm, and it was getting 
dusk when we entered the " Heads," — a narrow paa- 
mge about two miles wide, and formed by a high bluff 
on the left hand side, and a long low spit of land on 
our right. On thebluffis ahghthonseand BignaLLag 
apparatus. As we steamed along, the water all round 
hb appeared to be in strange commotion, as if agitated 
and inclined to boil over. This aingular phenome- 
non is designated the " rip at the Heads," and very 
often makes timid persouB feel uncomfortable as they 
gaze upon it, wondering at its cause. Howerer, 
we were soon beyond its influence, and safe within 
tlie then placid expanse of Port Phillip Waters, 



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wHch looked like an inland sea, about forty miles 
in length, by forty in width. 

On the shores of this great liarbonr are bnilt two 
towns and a city. On the western shore stands 
Gleelong, on Corio bay ; and at its northern end, in 
Hobson's Bay, are William's Town, and the far- 
famed city of Melbonme. From inside the Heads 
we steamed up the harbour in the dark. Over a 
large area the water in Port Phillip is shallow ; but 
as there are two good ship channels, well buoyed 
and marked off, but little danger or inconvenience 
is to be apprehended, especially with a pilot on 
board, as required of all vessels. It was nearly mid- 
night when we arrived opposite William's Town, 
which is about five miles from Sandridge by water. 
Here we cast anchor for the night, and here the 
Custom House officers came on board, as well as the 
reporters for the press, to glean the latest items of 
news. Where we lay was about three miles from 
Sandridge and its two fine deep-water piers, with 
lines of shipping ranged along tlieir sides, and a 
line of railway on the one called the Railway Pier. 
Sandridge is the landing port, and is a suburb of 
Melbourne, with which it is connected by an excel- 
lent railway, about two miles and a half long. 

By daylight next morning we were gratified by a 
view of these surprising and nnmistakeable eridenoea 

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THE TABEA TAEEA. 9 

of modem progress and civilization, as developed at 
tte Antipodes. Oar destination, however, was not 
for either of the two piers at S&odridge, bat direct 
to Melbourne City by water. Our anchor was hove 
np by 6 a.m., and we steamed towards WiUiam'a 
Town for the mouth of the Tarra Tarra river, whose 
channel we found running through mud £ats, of 
which we saw little, as it was high water. When 
foirly inside the Tarra Tarra, we found it to be a 
deep but narrow river, winding ita way hitiier and 
thither, first through swampy and serabby ground, 
next by bone works, gas works, boiling down works, 
&c., all more profitable to the owners than agreeable 
to the visual and olfactory senses of travellers by 
this roate. The windings of the Tarra Tarra were 
of such a serpentine character that one was puzzled 
sometimes to know how we should get round the 
sharp curves and angles of the river with oar 
steamer, which was 448 tons burden. The task, 
however, was accomplished, and we were safely 
landed in Flinders Street, a busy and central 
thoroughfare, the heart of commercial life at Mel- 



Afler a pleasant passage ttp the river of eight 
miles — which by rail irom Sandridge would only 
have been two and a half — ^we stepped ashore from 
our steamer, which in a few minutes was safely 

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10 TICTOEIA. 

moored close alongside Steam Point Wharf, in tte 
basin of the Tarra Tarra. 

We no sooner set foot on terra firma than we 
were surrounded by hoata of competitors for our- 
selvea amd Inggage. A car here, a cart there, a 
dray over the way, was speedily offered to onr 
choice by clamorons voices. From this embarras de 
rickesses, I aoon selected a conveyance to take me 
to the Port Phillip hotel, in Flinders Street, where 
I took np my qnartera for a short time. I liked the 
place well enough, and remarked to a fellow-travel- 
ler that it waa a fine hotel, and well conducted — 
" Only rather dear I" he obaerved in return. " Per- 
haps," I replied, " bat only consider the advantages 
—the agrSmens of the locality, for which, you must 
pay. Only look at the cool retreat at the back — a 
garden of tropical beauty, with an aepect ao green 
and refreshing ; and then think of that lively parrot, 
with hia droll chatter, hia singing and mimicry ; to 
Bay nothii^ of the good winea, the well-kept cuisme, 
the hajidsome apartments, and the luxury of a bath, 
and 1 believe you will agree with me that accommo- 
dation of this kind is not to be got pour rien d-a 
tovt, as the French say." My friend waa ailent, but 
this did not prove that he was satisfied or convinced. 

For a day or two I walked about MelboiuTie, look- 
ing at its wide streets and fine bnildings. I reflected 



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XELBOUBNE. 11 

OD its past lustoiy, and tlionglit of its present aspect, 
and was stmck with wonder and setonisbment at all 
I saw. Good reader, no donbt yon hare liogered 
over curioos legends and Eastern tales, which tell us 
of the wonders wrought in the olden times in far-off 
dimes, by all sorts of supernatural agencies — fairies, 
and genii, and magicians, by divers kinds of " en- 
chantment." Doubtless, too, yon have read in more 
recent times of the sudden rise of great and popu- 
lous cities in places which thirty or forty years ago 
were httle better than a "howling wilderness," 
amidst the vast soHtudes of boundless prairies and 
primeval forests in the New World — ^regions of the 
American continent unmarked by any tracks of 
oivilization, and set apart, as it were, in perpetuity 
to be the hunting grounds of nameless tribes of Red 
Indians. And in any case you have probably thought 
it was impossible to oatdo the murels of the past, 
as set forth by romance, or as achieved by modem 
enterprise and industiy. Yon may have thought 
that human progress, in the settlement of new conn- 
tries and the creation of great towns and cities, had 
reached its atmost bounds within the limits of the 
Great Republic. But if yon think so, I hope to be 
able to prove that you were mistaken ; for in a cer- 
tain British dependency — in an Dnglieh colony 
named Victoria — a solid basis of prosperity has 



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12 VICTOEU. 

been laid, accompanied bj a rapid advance in po- 
pulation, wealtiij trade, commerce, agricultnre, the 
arts and sciences {everywhere visible), which, 
considering the short time it has taken to bring 
this progress about, has no parallel in the history 
of colonization, or of the civilized world. Well 
might the irrepressible Yankee, George Francis 
Train, after his zigzag wanderings over various 
parts of the globe, exclaim, " There is no place like 
Melbonme I " 

Victoria was first colonized by a few free settlers 
under their leader Mr. Thomas Henty, &om Tasmania, 
in the year 1834. These pioneers of settlement 
located themselves at Portland Bay, 234 miles from 
Melbomme. In 1834, however, there was not » 
house or garden on any part of the land on which 
now stand Melbonme and its Bnbnrbs. Dnring the 
year 1835 Mr. John P. Fawkner and John Bat- 
man, with their respective parties, settled themselves 
down on the present site of Melbonme. Fawkner's 
party aotnally ploughed ap and sowed with wheat 
a patch of land of five acres, on which a portion of 
the metropolis of Tiotoria is now built. The entire 
population of Melbonme in 1836 numbered only 
224 souls. In 1887 its first land sales took place; 
in 1842 it was incorporated as a town; in 18&1 
Yictoria became a separate colony (from l^ew South 



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ITS o&iani AHD PBOOBEsa. 13 

Wales) ; and in 1851 a rich gold field was discoTered 
within 100 miles of Melbonrne, at Ballarat. Thia 
year, '51, will ever be memorahle in the histoiy of 
Victoria. No less than 10,000 persona were landed 
in Melbourne dnring one week of that year. From 
that time fonrard its population increased with ench 
astoniBhing rapidity, that at the end of 1867 the 
City of Melbotime and its sixteen Babarban town- 
ships (now BO contiguous to and nearly associated 
with the parent city, as to be destined before long 
to form one grand metropolis) contained 163,308 
Bonla— of which total the City of Melboums proper 
reckoned 48,500 — ^while it could boast of a corpo- 
rate income of £94,672 ; and while I was there tho 
corporation were erecting a fine town hall, with a 
front built of beautiful white treestoue, and in a 
style of arehitecture too, which, if not so imposing 
as that of the town halls of Leeds, Liverpool and 
Manchester, willj in my opiniouj be considered 
remarkably chaste and handsome. I may here men- 
tion that most of the houses in Melbourne are built 
of stone, many of brick, and a few of wood. Strik- 
ing as these results (with reference to Melbourne 
itself) may be, they are exceeded as regards the 
progress of Victoria, as a whole. On the 15th of 
Augustj 1835, the total population of the then 
"prOTince" of Victoria was /owWeere souls. In 1851 

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14 TJCTOSU. 

it had increBsed to 77,345 inhabitants. The great 
gold diacoreries sent it np to 530,262 in 1859, 
giving an nnpreoedented increase of 452,917 sonls 
in abont eight years. In the beginning of 1863 
the population of Victoria was 659,887; aad the 
net revenoe of the colony for the year 1867 was 
£3,043,899. Its imports for 1868 were estimated 
at £13,820,661, and its exports at £15,593,990. 
Bnt as these gross totals of imports and exports 
indnded a som of £1,305,825, the vain© of gold, 
the produce of New Zealand.(in transitu), the abso- 
lute value of Victorian imports was £12,014,836, 
whUe that of the exports amounted to the re- 
spectable sum of £14,288,165. 

In 1867 there were in the colony of Victoria 
nine millions of sheep, and 270,734 acres of land 
growing wheat. With a view to reduce the coat 
of transit from the interior to the aea-board, and 
at the same time to accelerate the speed, this young 
community had constructed and opened for trafEc, 
at the end of 1867, no less than 271 miles of rail- 
way, as substantial and as durable as an English 
railway, at an outlay of £11,706,066,* being at the 
rate of £43,195 per mile. An extravagant rate to 
be sore, bnt mainly owing to the high prices pre- 

* For ntf glati^ticsl fact* I &m ohieBj' indebted to the Ticlorian 
blne-botik of 1868, entitled " OfflcuU Statistics of Victoria for 1867." 



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FOBLIC DEBT. 15 

vailing at the Lime— <»)inbiiied with that lariah and 
■wafltefnl expenditure that too often takes place 
when other people's money — that ia to aay, borrowed 
capital — ^ia being dealt with, 

The public debt of Victoria on the Ist of Jannary, 
1868, amoTinted to £9,480,800} and while I was in 
Melbourne in the early part of 1869, a further sum 
of £300,000 waa actually borrowed by the Govem- 
ment at 5 per cent., — a tangible proof of the abon- 
dance of money in the market, and of the confidence 
which local capitaliBts place in the future resources 
of Victoria. About the same time a still larger 
amount, namely, £2,107,000, was about being 
floated on the London market, but for certain 
reasons best known to the Victoria Government, I 
am informed that it has been withdrawn from the 
mon^ market here.* I presume, nevertheless, that 
it will eventually be floated and placed, — for the 
money is required for railway extensions and for 
increased supplies of water for purposes of gold- 
mining and navigation. In that case the total 
amount of the debt of the colony will not be &r 

* On the 9t]i of March, I86B, tbu S per cent, loan, in £100 
bonds, was placed on the mailet, the minimum price being fixed at 
£100. Only £588,600 wa» taken np at that price. On the Ilth of 
January, 1870, the balance of £1,518,400 was offered at flOO. lOi. 
The result woe that the whole amount was taken Dp at a little OTer 
£101. 



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16 VICTOEIA. 

shoH of eleven and a-half millions sterlii^. Not at 
all a large debt for bo ricli a conntry, provided tliat 
borrowing be discontinued for a time, and that the 
capital raised by loans be expended on reprodnctiye 
works, and reduced annually by payment of part 
of the principal as well as the interest. 

Victoria produces more wheat and wine than she 
consumes, and with her exports of gold and wool 
she contribute a largely — together with the rest of 
Australia and New Zealuid — to matntmn London m 
the money marlcet of the world and tJie wool mart 
of Europe,* The imports into Victoria from the 

• The total imports of colonial wool into London for the year 
ending December Slat, 1869, were as under: — 

Nev South Wales and QaeeDsluid . 120,544 boles 

Victoria 306,188 „ 

Sonth Australia 66,097 „ 

Westetn AnsCralia 4,861 „ 

TasmaniH 17,363 „ 

New Zealand 8fi,339 „ 

Cape of Good Hope 134,163 „ 

Total 634,544 bales. 

If we deduct 134,163 bales imported &om the Cape of Good 
Hope, as shown above, we hare the enormons quantity of 500,381, 
or, in ronnd nambers, half a million of hales as the prodace of 
Australia and New Zealand for one year. Add to this the estimated 
Talue of the field of gold for Victoria and New Zealand alone, for 
the year 1869 — amonnting to seren millions sterling — and we may 
form a tolerably accnrate idea of the paramonnt importance of the 
Australasian colonies to Great Britain. Judging them by tbeir short 
pastcareertheie8iiltisstillmorestrikiug,fi>rItlud that the Customs' 



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IMPOETAHCB Of THE COLONIES. 17 

United Kingdom for the year 1867 were valued 
afc dght millions sterling. From this fact it will 
readily be observed how large a number of fac- 
tories and workshops, of merchants and traders 
throughout Great Britain are kept employed in 
supplying the wants of this single Australian 
province alone. If the 450,000 persons who 
have emigrated from the United Kingdom to Vic- 
toria had remained at home, they mnst hare been 
competitors for the limited amonnt of employ- 
ment in the home market ; and many of them, as 
paupers receiving parish relief, would have been 
eating up the resources of the parent country, in- 
stead of contributing to the general stock of wealth 
and comfort (their own to boot) as they now 
do.* The direct gain and advantage accruing to 
England in this respect, from her colonies, are 
too obvious to require any argument to prove the 
fact ; although a novel theory has been main- 

Talae of Auatnilian gold exported — mostly to London — from 1861 
to 31st Deccmlier, 1868, was orer one hundred and forty millions 
aterliag. or ia exact figures, £147,342,767. In fact, the Tulne of the 
gold railed in tha colony of Victoria olcna, from Ihe first discoTery of 
the gold fields in 1S6I to 1867, readied the enormoiu amonnt of 
£135.643,811. 

* From the Govemment Coloniiation Circalar I find that, from 
183S to lBS8,noleBathaii 937,815 persons emigrated to New Zealand 
and Anitrelia. Of these U 1,306 went to New Zealand, and 433,650 
to Victoria. 



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18 TICTOBU. 

tamed of late, that colonial possesBions, in general, 
are more burthensotne than profitable to the parent 
coontry. The AostraliaJi colonies may hare been 
very wayward, and Bometimee inclined to carry 
things with a high hand, but they &re loyal at he^ 
and still proud of their connection with the old 
country. Were the slender ties {in a constitutional 
point of view) that now bind these important depen- 
dencies to Great Britain to be suddenly and prema- 
turely severed, there would, I fear, spring up such a 
feeling of " every one for himself," that a diminution 
of trade with, and of kindly sentiment towards, the 
parent country, would be the eventual if not the 
speedy result. It is of the utmost importance to 
the manufacturers, traders and commercial men of 
Great Britain to take note of this fact. Their in- 
terests and those of the operative classes, present 
and prospective, are immediately concerned. Some 
persons may imagine that trade would continue to 
Aow in its old cbannela ; but this assumption is open 
to grave doubt. The bonds of a common nationality 
which now link the Australian colonies with their 
Imperial " mother," being once for all dissevered, 
the colonists would consider themselves free to look 
abroad in the world for new connections and other 
markets which they might consider more profitable 
both for buying and selling. If in their present 



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COLOSIES AND BBPARATIOS. 19 

undeveloped condition the trade of these colonies ia 
of material advantage to Great Britainj what must 
that trade be a century hence, when the population 
of Australia and of New Zealand, respectively, will 
coontby many millions? These facts must not be lost 
sight ofj either hy the mercantile man or the states* 
man who contemplates the probable fature as well 
as the present condition of this great empire in its 
wide relationships with the other parta of the civilized 
worldj which are already running a neck and neck race - 
with na in the great handicap stakes of commercial 
enterprise and organized industry. Our exports to the 
United States of America, if takea at so mnch per 
head of the population, are really trifling as compared 
with the amount of business which we transact with 
&a Australian colonies. We have now arrived at a 
point when all these matters must be well weighed 
and deliberately considered by the British public — 
bat mere especially by those with whom rests the 
responsibility of dealiog with imperial interests ia 
the last resort. My own impression is, that, at 
present, it is too soon topart. Still, if the family party 
is to be broken up, and if the sun is at length to set 
upon her Majesty's dominions, if we are to separate 
—let us, at all events, part as good friends. 



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CHAPTER m. , 

MELBOCENE AND ITS 8TEKETS — SKWEEAOE — THE SITE OF 
MELBODEKB AND ITS SCBPEBS — HOT WINDS — CAHS 
AND CARMEN — THE PUBLIC KAEKBT, SCENE THERE ON 
A SATDTIDAY NIGHT — CHEAP MUITON. 

The dtj of Melbourne and its suburbs stand on 
. a large block of land, which is mostly hilly and un- 
dulating, and through which " the ever-flowing 
Tarra Tarra" winds its course slowly to the sea. 
The city proper is so girt in and bo closely connected 
with its sixteen suburban municipalities, named 
respectivelyj Fitzroy, CoLingwood East, Richmond, 
Brighton, Brunswick, Emerald Hill) Flemington and 
Essendon, Footscray, Hawthorn, Eotham, Kew, 
Fentiidge, Prahran, Saadridge, St, Kilda and Wil- 
liam's Town — that they must eventually form one 
great metropolis. One suburb alone, Collingwood 
East, contains 20,000 inhabitants ; and when I 
walked out of Melbourne proper into Collingwood, 
I was not awure of having passed from the city to 
the township. It all appeared to me as one great 
town : a stranger cannot of himself diatingniah the 
difference ; for the streets of the city are continued 
BO as either to intersect, or nearly to communicate 



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Cmr 07 UXLBOUBNE. 21 

with, those of the nearest of the Bahnrban borongha. 
Tlie city of Melbourne itself is of course the most 
central, important^ wealthy, and business-buatling 
p^t of the great group. It is laid out in the form 
of a rectangular parallelogram or oblong square, 
divided into 18 streets crossing each other at . 
right angles. Its main frontage (its base line eo 
to speak) is to Flinders Street and to the widest 
part of the Tarra — the basin where the shipping 
liee. Flinders Street, with its great sombre looking 
but business 'like warehouses, built of du'k bhte 
stone, fronts and overlooks the wharves with their 
steamers, as well as the railway statioQ with its 
great goods depot, and the neat and spacious fish 
market. At right angles to, and back from Flindem 
Street, run nine other streets over hilly ground. 
They are each more than half-a-mile in length, and 
are continued to outside the city. They have a 
nniform width of 99 feet,are macadamized throughout 
and provided with flagged footways 12 feet wide. 
The centre one of these nine streets is called Eliza- 
beth Street J in point of position it stands the 
lowest, and seema to run almost on a dead level. 
It is, in iact, a valley between two adjacent hillsj 
over which extend eight streets, four on either side. 
Elizabeth Street is only 22 feet above the level of 
the sea; and when the rain comes down (as it some- 
times does with tropical violence in Melbourne) this 

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22 YIOTOBIA. 

street becomes floodedj and acts tlie part of a great 
wide open sewerj along whicli rushes — crossing 
Flinders Street and falling into the Tarra Taira — 
an immense accumulation of rain vater mixed with 
sewage matter. 

Parallel to and in the rear of Flinders Street, are 
eight other streets (Flinders Street makes the ninth) 
running across the nine streets aboTe-mentioned. 
Fire of these, including Flinders Street, are each 
99 feet wide ; the four others, I regret to say, are 
but 33 feet each in width. These nine streets, how- 
ever, ore all of one length—nearly a mile long from 
end to end, and fire of them are the finest, and in 
fact, the principal streets in Melbourne, The names 
of these five leading streets are respectively Flinders, 
Collins, Bourke, Lonsdale, and Latrobe, streets. 
Brunning between, and in the rear of these five 
streets are the four narrow streets before-mentioned 
— which constitute in fact the " back slums." 
Here are situated the workshops with their mani- 
fold odours, noxious and innocuous ; here, too, 
many steady and indnstrioua families hare taken 
np their quarters, and here congregate aud herd 
together the lazy and disreputable classes — the 
Bcom to be found in every great commercial city. 
The names of these streets are not inappropriate — 
standing in contrast as they do with their more 
splendid neighbours. They are called respectively 

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CITY 01 misorsNs, 23 

Flindora Lane, Little Collins Street, Little Bourke 
Street, and Little Lonsdale Street. 

As Elizabeth Street is the centre of tlie block in 
its narrowest breadth, so Bourke Street is the main 
and central street of its greatest length. Bourke 
Street, like the other streets which run parallel with 
it, is depressed in the middle, where it crosses 
Elizabeth Street, and elevated at either end. During^ 
any fine afternoon Bourke Street is thronged with 
pedestrians ; but in the evening, and especially on 
Saturday nights, when the lamps and shop fronts 
are in full blaze of gas light, one sees, on looking 
down the street firom the Houses of Parliament, an 
endless concourse of people crowding this great 
thoronghfare — a spectacle which is enhanced by the 
glare of lamps which fringe the vista on both sides— 
and the buzz and ham of many voices. If you want to 
see a crowd as dense and as motley as that of Oxford 
Street and Tottenham Court Boad combined— go to 
Bonrke Street, Melbourne. If yon wish to pnt up 
at a palatial hotel, or to dine at a grand restaurant, 
or to ride in one of Cobb's coaches, or to visit a 
theatre or a concert room — go to Bourke Street. 
Do you desire to see bOnqueta of pretty barmaids, 
youthful, fast, or fascinating— go to Bourke Street 
East ; but if yon want a saddle for your nag, or the 
uag itself — pay a visit to Bourke Street West. 



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24 TICTOEIA. 

SHould the ladies of your family require fine dresses 
in the newest of fashions or the gayest of colours — 
they must betake themselves to Collins Street, 
where they get the longest credit, and — pay the 
highest price. If yon want a doctor, you have only 
to run to Collins Street East; and if you are in 
quest of a merchant or a banker, hasten to Collins 
Street West. From this it will be perceived jthat 
Melbourne, like London and Paris, has its special 
"quarters" for particular trades, callings and pro- 



Almost the first thing that attracted my attention 
at Melbonme, was the unusual width of the streets 
and the palatial appearance of its stone buildings. 
The next thing, I confess, was not quite so agree- 
able, for it not only caught the eye, bnt also offended 
the nose. There, before me, were very wide gutters, 
one on each side of the street, along which ran the 
liquid sewage of Melbourne, until it finally dis- 
charged itself into the once pure and limpid waters of 
the Tarra Yarra. I believe the solid closet sewage is 
disposed of in other ways. At all events, here before 
the eyes of the public, a foul-looking and still more 
foul-smelling fluid runs its daily and appointed 
course — a filthy compound of liquids discharged 
from factories, dyehouses, workshops and private 
dwellings— emitting vapours which are anything 



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DBAINA.OE or UELBOUSHE. 25 

but "odorous" — especially in bofc weather. It is 
ni^d, however, that these impurities are greatly 
diluted by the surplus waters of the Tan Yean reser- 
voir. This may be true to some extent, but still 
enough of the original "Tillainous mixture " remains 
to be at times peculiarly offeusiye to pedeetrians 
who walk along by the side of these open sewers. 
One day, while Btanding on the right bank of the 
Yarra^ in Flinders Street, looking at the dark and 
^till waters of the river, a steamer went past, plongh- 
iug up the stream with its screw, and displacing and 
bringing to the surface the under current. The 
water thus turned up appeared to be thick and of a 
blueish black hue, and emitted a most ofiensive 
odour — not unlike what our owu Father Thames 
was wont to send forth a few years back in the wake 
of the river steamers, anywhere between Battersea 
and Blackwall. From these indications, it is to be 
feared that this part of the Yarra, below the falls, 
will become shallower by degrees — to say nothing 
of the noxious smells and their consequences in a 
Banitory point of view ; little better in fact than a 
great open sewer. Surely this one great oversight 
in the original plan of the city— that of surface drain- 
age, will be remedied by a system of underground 
sewerage which shall utilise the sewage and provide 
the means of fertilizing thousands of acres of poor 



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fiat land tliat almost lie waste between Melbourne 
and William's Town and Geelong. No doubt tbe pro- 
cess would now be very expensive, and some sensible 
peraona may be diapoaed to let tHngs go on as here* 
toforej aided by a syatem of " deodomatioa." But 
depend apon it there is nothing like putting town 
sewage ont of sight, and so to speak — ont of smdl, 
by conveying it miles away firom where it was made 
— ^by an nndergronnd pass^^. In a city like that 
of Melbourne with its belt of saburbs, where the 
heat is often exceaaive, where the population is 
^ready above 150,000 (and in a few years more will 
probably be a quarter of a million), the question of 
sewer^e cannot be treated lightly — nor indeed can 
it be overlooked or neglected much longer by those 
who are concerned and responsible for the salubrity 
of the Bonthem metropolis— the Corporation of 
Melbourne. Otherwise a fatal epidemic may some 
day break out when least expected, and decimate 
the population — a far greater loss than the cost of 
a complete system of sewerage. In this respect 
Sydney is much better off. Melbourne is favoured 
with a plentiful supply of water, and abounds in 
wealth and engineering skill : let ua hope that the 
" authorities" will turn these advantages to account 
in the direction, which I, as a visitor, have ventured 
with all due deference to indicate. 



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MELBODKHE COHPABSD TO SOUK. 27 

The site of Melbonme, in its topograpliicsl fea- 
tnres, has been likened to that of Borne; for> 
including ita saborbsj it ia bnilt on Beven hills, 
namely, Richmond Hill, South Tarra Hill, St. 
Kilda's Hill, Emerald Hill, Batman's Hill, East 
Melbourne Hill, and West Melbourne Hill. The 
apparent similarity between these and the Boman 
hills might be carried further, by the likeness of 
the Yarra to the river Tiber. However, as Bat- 
man's Hill has almost disappeared to make way for 
railway improvements, the prospect of having an 
Australian seven-hilled city is seriously interfered 
with. In the city of Melbourne there are no squares 
or gardens, there is little else than streets and 
houses, suitable for business or pleasure — the order 
of the day. But the absence of squares is amply 
redeemed by the formation of fine parks and beau- 
tiful gardens in the suburbs. 

Only two days after I landed in Melbourne I 
experienced one of those little 'Sashes' of heat 
incidental to that city, and not, as I once supposed, 
peculiar to Sydney. It was hot — ^blazing hot I 
Though attired in light clothing, I found it excee- 
eively warm. As a screen from the heat my 
ombrella was of little use ; it was no shelter against 
a hot wind. The wind was literally scorching; the 
air was charged with heated dust, and my sensations 



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2o TICTOBIA. 

were quite on a level with the oppressive atmosphere 
by which I was smroiinded. I was at once hot, 
thirsty, and uncomfortahle. I took some light 
beven^, to cool the inner and outward man, but 
the more I drank the more I wanted to drink. I 
felt unwell, and perspired profiiselj, It seemed as 
if there was no escape from the intolerable heat. 
At length, however, I espied a fine large atone-bnilt 
cathedral — St. Patrick's, I think it is called (heaven 
bleaa him for having it put up !}— and remembering 
the coolness of continental churches, I fied for 
sanctuary — at least for shade— to the interior of 
this goodly temple, with its portala ever open to 
give refuge to weary wayfarers. I was not dis- 
appointed: it was as cool as a grotto — quite re- 
ireshing. I admire cathedrals in general, for their 
massiveness and external grandeur, as well as for 
their internal solemnity and splendour ; and I may 
add, that I fonad this fine building in no way de- 
ficient in any of these essential characteristics. 
These cathedral interiors, with their lofty propor- 
tions and chaste outlines, help one for the moment 
to forget the concerns of the outer world, and it may 
be to bestow a thought upon the world to oome. 
In short, I was loth to quit tins cool retreat, but at 
length I did so. On inquiring the way to my hotel, 
of a respectable-looking man, I casually remarked 



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CAB DBI7EBS. 2d 

that it was " a very hot i&j," when he stared at me 
with apparent surprise, and replied, " Hot I I don't 
call this here a hot day." Well, I thought to my- 
self, X wonder what it must be like when it is hotter. 
The next day, howevePj was fine and cool, and I felt 
quite well again. It is surprising, in fact, how the 
first cool day makes one forget the discomforts of 
the last hot one ; and it is equally afitoniahing how 
aoon people adapt themselves to the drawbacks and 
disadvanti^s of the climate they live in. The Lon- 
doner puts up with his fogs, his biting east winds, 
and his sadden changes of weather, and the Vic- 
torian with his occasional hot blasts — while each in 
his sphere, aa a rule, learns to accommodate himself 
to the country that gives him daily bread, and in 
which Providence has placed him. 

During the whole of my stay in Melbourne I 
never saw an omnibus, and only about a dozen caba 
at their stand in Collins Street, near the banks and 
merchants' offices. The universal and popular sub- 
stitutes for cabs, coaches, and omnibuses in Mel- 
bourne are two-wheeled cars in the American 
fashion. The bodies of these cars are squajre, open 
at the four sides, but covered over with a roof. In 
~ wet weather curtains are hung from the outer edges 
of this roof, so as to make the vehicle a sort of close 
carriage. Across the centre runs a doable seat, on . 



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which six paAsengers can sit back to back. As the' 
floors are raised in the centre, and have a elope out- 
wards back and front, those who occupy the back 
seat hare to hold on by a leather strap when going 
up hill or crossing the pared sewer-gutters, in order 
to avoid the risk of slipping from their seats. These 
cars— or " cabs," as I have sometimes heard tiiem 
called — may be very airy machines, but they are not 
easy to rido in, and those who are afraid of draughts 
must beware of a stiff neck. In some respects they 
are not unlike public conveyances which I have 
seen at Naples and elsewhere on the continent. 
When the vehicle is full, the driver (generally an 
Irishman) sits on the shaft, at the right-hand comer 
in front, while he urges on his poor heavy-laden 
jade with a ftee whip. In Melbourne, as in Loudon, 
the genus "cabby" is apt to charge more than 
his proper fare, whenever he has a chance ; but you 
can ride a considerable distance for 3d, and two 
miles for a shilling. Some of these Irish drivers 
are chatty and facetious. Thoy tell droll stories in 
an off-hand sort of way, and sigh for the times— the 
early gold-digging times — when they could oflen 
pick up from £3- to £5 in a day. But things are 
now altered, as there is great competition amongst 
car drivers. Some of the new arrivals, and of the 
old hands too, like to hang about the town, rather 



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PDBUC UABOT. 31 

ihan go into the conntiy wbere thej could get more 
money. Some car-drirers told ne that when they 
worked for employers their pay was about 20a 
per week, with board and lodging found — ^while 
a steady man, who hired a horse and car to drire on 
his own account, could clear, on an average, from 
35a to £2 a week. Their hours, as a rule, are 
8 o'clock in the morning untU 12 at night, Sundays 
incladed. 

Melbourne Market, at the top of Bonrke Street 
East, is certainly not a fine building. In appearance, 
arrangement, and accommodation, the public markefc 
at Sydney is far superior. The Melbourne market 
■ — chiefly for fruit and vegetables — consists of five 
very long open sheds, with semi-circular corrugated 
iron roofs, resting on posts. The double sheds have 
cart roads nmning between them. The market-days 
are Wednesdays and Saturdays. Early in the morn- 
ing on these days an animated scene is presented by 
the goodly attendance of buyers of potatoes, cab- 
^ges, pine-apples, peaches, apricots, plnms, and 
grapes, and a variety ot other fruits and vegetables 
too Domerons to mention. These animated ezhi* 
bij^ions of colonial market life attracted my attention 
on more than one occasion, in the months of January 
and February of 1869. This city market, however, 
is seen in all its glory on a Saturday night. It is 



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- then radiant witli gas which displays the stalls to 
advantE^Cj while crowds of people throng on every 
side. Here a vast congregation of men and women, 
baying and selling, and chaffering and ahonting; 
there a conflnx of boys and girls, walking, talking, 
gazing, laughing and flirting. The articles offered 
for Bale are as varied as the crowd, and present a 
nwnster collection of eatables and drinkables, wear- 
ables and tearables, hard goods and soft goods, of 
every description; in fact a little of everything 
spread out in the most incongruoos fashion. On 
one table were oysters, on the next stockings ; close 
at hand a display of crockery ware and shoes, car- 
penters' tools and scholastic books, piles of reli- 
gions works and collections of songs, children's toys 
and pickles, hard bread and soft batter, grapes and 
potatoes, old clothes and cheese, new clothes and 
bacon, live opoasnms and dead ducks, parrots and 
cabbages, cockatoos and cucumbers, English ferrets 
and Australian magpies, brush-ware and tin-ware, 
tame rabbits and black swans ; with divers sorts of 
vegetables and fruits, fish, flesh, and fowl — cheap 
and abundant. Above the din and clatter of the 
crowd, and the cries of vendors, might be heard tbe 
voice of a " Cheap Jack " bawling onfc " Sold again, 
to a gentleman with a thousand a year." I/ooking 
towards the upper end of the market, I caugh^ ^ighb 



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CHEAP MDTtOIf. 33 

of ' Jack,' tlie owner of the stentorian lungs, stand- 
ing on a platform in front of his covered cart, in the 
midst of his flimsy wares, and decked oat in the 
qaaint and flashy garb pecoHar to the mountebank 
fraternity at country fairs in England, These 
fellows know from experience that their piebald 
costume, their effrontery, and thoir volubility, will 
always draw around them a gaping multitude, ready 
for a " bargain " when offered " for nothing." Not 
far from our 'cheap' friend was set up another 
English institution — " Punch and Judy," with the in- 
separable dog Toby — all hard at work on a very hot 
evening, and affordiug great amusement, apparently, 
to the crowd of Antipodean bystanders. Again 1 
waa attracted by a loud voice, pitched from near the 
centre of the market, calling out, " This way for 
cheap mutton ! " I proceeded to where the sound 
came from, and soon found myself in the presence 
of a red-faced man in the garb of a butcher, standing 
on a barrow and surrounded by a crowd composed 
of both sexes. Around him were piled a number of 
half-carcaaes of sheep, ready dressed for cooking. 
Each half sheep would weigh, I should think, irom 
15 to 20 lbs. The mutton was sweet, and of fair 
average quidity. The salesmivn was standing on his 
barrow-platform, holding up the half sheep (cot 
length-ways through the middle) while he waved 



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34 TICTOEU. 

the other hand with ftnimated gestures towards his 
audience, " Cheap mntton here I come along, how's 
your time ; who'll buy my cheap nnitton ?" A pause 
ensues; the mutton ia lowered for a moment, to 
ease the arm ; up it goes once more, and then I hear 
him sing out, " Sold again, and got the sugar (a colo- 
ni£d slang word for ready money) — half a sheep for 
a shilling t " The purchaser this time was a little 
girl, who tottered along with her load, as if she held 
a little brother upside down. The price astonished 
me, and I thought there must have been some mis- 
take ; but I was soon undeceived, for a young man 
presently stepped forward and took another half at 
the same price. But notwithstanding the cheapness 
of the article, there were but few bidders ; the supply 
was greater than the demand, and it was certain that 
ihe salesman would have several half carcases re- 
maining unsold. While musing upon the scene 
before me, I was roused from my reverie by a loud 
voice shouting close to my ear in a sing-song tone, 
"Kangaroo boot-laces stout and strong — two yards 
long I" But I paid little heed to the itinerant mer- 
chant. My attention was absorbed in the contempla- 
tion of what I had jqst witnessed; and the words, 
" half a sheep for a shilling," still kept ringing in my 
ears. " How is this ? where am I V were the ques- 
tions that rose to my mind ; and the answer came 



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CHBAP MlrrTON. 35 

firom myself. "Wty, I am in the land of gold, of 
wioOj of wheat, of wool, and of mutton 15 Iba. for 
one shilling." What, I thought, would the starving 
poor, the employed and the unemployed classes of 
London and Manchester, and of the other great 
towns and cities of England, Ireland, and Scotland, 
think of this, half & sheep for a shilling and scarcely 
any bidders ? 



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CHAPTER IV. 

REHAEEa OH IMIOIfAKTB — HOT WISES : THELE EPPKCT8 
— E4TK8 OF WAGES AND PEICE Of PBOVI3ION8 — IS- 
CESSrVE COHSUMPTION OS AEDEUT SPIBIT8 — HEALTH 
OP THE COLONISTS — AVERAGE MOETALITY — MELBOUBNB 

CEMSTBET THK HDSBEM — THE "WELCOME KiraQBT" 

^^THB "welcome STBAliaEE "— -a FOETDNB FOB TWO 
FOOB HEN. 

As tbe advantageB of Victoria, as a wide field for 
emigration and settlement, far exceed its disad- 
vantages, the colony can well afford to have its 
drawbacks folly enumerated. In Victoria I have 
heard some old, and also some newly arrived, settlers 
complain that before leaving home they were shown 
the bright side only of the Anstralian pictm-e. Ac- 
cordingly, to prevent disappointment to those who 
may read these pages and afterwards emigrate to 
Victoria, I pmpose, as I have said before, to de- 
scribe as far as they came nnder my notice, the 
ehortcomings as well as the attractions of Victoria 
life. At tlie same time it may be observed that it 
is impossible to please every body, and that amongst 
any large number of emigrants, there are always the 



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HOT WIHDS. 87 

"gmmblers" to contend with; — i mean of conrsa 
the habitaal " grambler," who, wherever his lot is 
cast^ always seema discontented— the result pwhapa 
of a morbid or melancholy temperament which 
caosea the possessor to look upon the dark, rather 
than upon the bright side of nature. Or perhaps 
the individoal has led a dissipated (»■ indolent lifej 
Mid has no inclinatioa to earn bis bread by the 
sweat of his brow. 

In cwrying out my porpose of giving both sides 
of the question, I must again glance for a moment 
at the climate of Melbourne, as regards the heat. 
On the 27th of January of this year (1869) it wa3 
oppressively hot in that city. To a new arrival, the 
heat and dust together were well nigh insupportable, 
for Melbonme was in one of its melting moments, and 
on this day was enveloped in a cloud of heated dust, 
almost as dense as a fog. In a preceding chapter I 
alluded to a Melbourne citizen, who in answer to my 
complaint about the heat, replied, " Hot I I don't 
call this here a hot day I" Perhaps, if I had met him 
on this day, he would have made the same reply ; 
bnt if I had enconntered him on the 19th or 20th 
of the following month, February (on Friday, the 
19th of that month, the maxitnam heat was recorded 
by the thermometer at the Melbourne Observatory 
as 100,8" in the shade, and 137.1* in the sun) he 



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would liave modified his opinioQ. Indeed the tempe- 
rature has been higher than even this. For instance 
— on the Christmas ere of 1868, in some places in 
Victoria the thermometer marked 110 degrees in 
the shadej while it stood at 162 in the sun. On the 
occasion that I speak of, namely, the 20th February, 
it was hot indeed, and I felt it all the more severely 
as I had not been long in the colony, and had been 
walking about the streets for a part of the day. 
The sultry air Was perfectly broiling. I took a bath 
by way of " cooler " — ^but the water was warm. I 
lolled on an easy ohair — but the seat was scorching. 
I took hold of the brass knob of a front door upon 
which the snn's rays fell in full force, but I was 
Boon glad to let go, for the knob felt aa if it would 
have blistered my hand. All this time the perspi- 
ration issued from every pore, as if I stood in a 
Turkish bath. This produced a parching thirst. 
I drank ioed ginger-beer, ioed soda-water and 
brandy, and I even tried the noted American 
drinks at the "Albion;" but I found " imbibation" 
a delusion. And then the tormenting files which 
buzzed in swarms round one's eyes ! It was a 
" caution to snakes." As I looked up at the trees 
their leaves seemed to have shriveled op from the 
effeots of the heat. But notwithstanding this I saw 
Bome labouring men at work near Beily Street, break- 



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ing Btones otit in the open air. I also obaerred a 
number of men trencliing the ground two feet deep 
in Carlton Gardens. I aaked them how they were 
paid, and how much they made per day. They 
told me that this work was given, by the town 
authorities, to those who were destitute of employ- 
ment, as a temporary relief until they could find 
employment elsewhere. Some of them were old — 
others young. Several appeared as if they had 
never handled a spade before, and two or three 
looked aa if they did not care to handle one now. 
Altogether there were some 30 or 40 of them, and 
they were paid at the rate of 5» for every square 
rod of ground that they trenched. Those that really 
worked told me they could make 3s 6d — others 
who could not or who would not work earned only 
from Is to 2s 6(2 a day. I have no hesitation in 
Baying, that to pay these men at rates varying from 
le to SaGd a day, for work done, was better than 
any other form of government relief in the shape 
of doles of money — which is calculated to encourage 
' loafing' and vagrancy. The majority of the men 
I saw, were evidently of that 'ne'er-do-weel' sort, 
that hang on to towns and are content with a pre- 
carious existence. On quitting the Carlton Gardens 
■ — the 'hot-blaat' or furnace heat still raging — I was 
accosted by a stalwart man with the words, " Dread- 



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40 TIOTOEU. 

ful hot, air !" Well, I thotight, I have at last foimcl 
a Melbourne nan to agree with me about the 
heat, and bo it really mnat be hot. My new an- 
qnaintance waa a mason. He carried some of the 
implementB of hia trade and a bottle, in a bag, 
Blung over his shoulder. I entered into conversa- 
tion with him. He told me he had been dressing 
hard blue stone all day in the broiling sun, — there 
being no sheds for the men to wort in where he was ; 
and this was the case elsewhere as well. I said I 
thought this very wrong, and that it should be re- 
medied. He quite agreed with me; nevertheless 
Jie appeared to be quite satisfied with hia position, 
and informed me that he was paid 10« per day of 
eight honrs wort. The weather was too hot he 
6aid, now and then in snmmer, but it generally did 
not last long. At the time I was speating to him 
it had lasted ' long,' — two whole days. But the third 
came, and the heat was over. The next day, 
Sunday, was quite cool, the wind changed to the 
south, and it rained a little. Then the cabmen 
changed from cabbies in shirt sleeves to cabbies in 
great coats. I saw an old woman on her way to 
church with a fur boa round her neck. Still the 
change from extreme heat to extreme cold was 
welcome to man and beast, and grateful tQ the 
parched fields and vegetation. After experiencing 



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SATIS OF WAQia. 41 

the eflfeots of these hot winda, I no longer wondered 
at some Victorians, in Melbourne, sighing for the cool 
breezes and ever running atreams of New Zealand. 

Aa a rule the building trades in Melbourne work 
only eight hours per dayj but the eight homTs' 
system does not apply to the whole of the trades 
and oecupatious in Victoria. Wages are not as 
high as they were formerly — in the early days of 
the gold diggings; but this is made up to the 
workmen by the greatly reduced cost of living, con- 
sequent on much lower house rents and the extra- 
ordinary low price of provisions now prevailing and 
likely to prevail. From official aourcea, and also 
from private inquiries (with the results of which I 
have supplemented my government information) of 
practical men, I learned that carpenters, bricklayers 
and plasterers received from 8s to 10s for a day's 
work of eight hours. Masons were pmd a shade 
higher than these rates.* Ordinary town labourers 
received from 6s to 7s per day, and common farm 
labonrers from ISs to 15s per week, with board 
and lodging for the latter. Ploughmen received 
20a per week; shepherds, £30 to £40 a year; 
married couples, £50 to £55 per annum; female 

* Bccent adyicea op to lost December (1869) state the wages of 
carpenters (o hare risen to from 9t to IOj per daj, and masons 
to 134. 



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42 VICTOBIA, 

servants, £20 to £30 a year — all found in board 
and lodging. Sheep sliearera were paid 12s to 16g 
per hundred. The rates of wages were not all alike 
in the country distrieta or in the towns, depression 
or activity in trade tending to vary them. But the 
figorea I have given indicate the average rate. A 
fiiend of mine who has embarked considerable 
capital in wheat growing, on land situate at Majorca, 
told me that, daring harvest time, he had paid harvest 
labourers from 6s to ?« a day, besides their food. 
For a good farming man he paid 35a a week all 
the year round, and fonnd him a cottage to live in. 
The harvest men were fed in a most substantial 
way — no stint — meals frequent. I doubt if an 
English agricultural labourer, or a Scotch hind, 
would believe it unless he saw it. The harvest 
labourers of my friend commenced work at 5 in the 
morning; breakfast at 7; lunch at 10; dinner at 
12, noon J tea at 4 p.m., and supper at sunset, when 
they left off work, having had five hearty "feeds" 
during the day. Let the Dorsetshire labourer who 
toils wearily a field with an " empty belly," and has 
to make bis dinner off a short ration of bread and 
cheese, or (lucky when he can get it) a slice of fet 
bacon, think what a change it would be for him^ if 
he coidd get five good " tighteners," with plenty of 
meat, every day to help him along with his work ! 



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PHICB 0? PEOTISIOKS. 43 

In the principal towns of Victoria there are (aa else- 
where) high-priced butchora and bakers who deliver 
their bread and meat, give credit, lose money by bad 
debts, and are consequently obliged to charge more 
for their goods than working-people — who buy their 
bread and meat at shops and markets suitable to 
their wants — can or need give. "With mntton by the 
half carcase ranging from 1(2 to 3(^ per Ib.j retail, l^d 
to4rf; beef, 4d to 6rf; bread, IJrf to Ifrfperlb.; 
with colonial beer cheap, and grapes cheap, Victoria 
should be a happy land — the " working man's para- 
dise." And so it is to those who do not waste their 
money upon intosicating drinks — ardent spirits. It 
is useless to conceal the fact, that the population, 
high and low, of the Australian colonies indulge too 
freely in strong potations, and this too in a climate 
which is of itself stimulating, and where, accord- 
ingly, etimnlants are not requisite. But then, some 
Englishmen, Scotchmen, and Irishmen, think they 
must do as they did in their respective " old" {and 
cold) countries — even if they ruin their prospects 
and shorten their lives by doing bo. Why, in Vic- 
toria, out of a cuatoma' revenue of £1,432,073, for 
1867, no less a sum than £596,224 was derived from 
the duties levied on ardent spirits alone. In New 
Zealand the total revenue for 1867 was £843,804, 
of which unonnt £351,205 was actually raised from 



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44 TICTOSU. 

spiritnons liqaora. Ttie nnmber of gallons of Epirita 
imported into Victoria during tlie same year was 
1,910,819. If we allow for large qnantities re- 
exported, or sent across the Mnrray into New Sonth 
Wales, there would be, in ronnd nnmbers, al>otit a 
million and a-half of gallons left ae the consumption 
of the popolation (659,887) of Victoria. By far the 
greater portion of this would, of course, be con- 
sumed by the males, nombering — infants to adnlts 
inclusive— 372,239. Tbronghont the British Empire 
the consamption of strong drinks is enormoas, com- 
pared with what I hare seen in Tarions states of 
JEurope. The amotint of vice, crime, poverty and 
privation thus needlessly, and I might say, heed- 
lessly, engendered, is something feEu:ful to contem- 
plate. . The future henefactoBs of the British race 
will sorely be those men who devote their energies, 
with success, to the discovery of some cure for the 
deeprooted and destructive vice of drunkenness. 

The general appearance of the inhabitants of 
Melbourne is that of a weU-to-do people. The 
population have an air and look of independence 
and respectability. The citizens for the most part 
give one the idea that they are healthy and actdve. 
They seem to enjoy good hetJth, thongh their com- 
plexions are sometimes blanched. Some, I obserr^d, 
had a habit of keeping their eyelids half closed when 



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HXALIH Of COLONISTS. 45 

ont of doorsj doubtless to shat out the sun and the 
dazzUng effect of a bright atmosphero. Rosy cheeks 
were sometimes to be seen, but they generally be- 
longed to new arrJ-valB. I see no reason why Aus- 
tralians should not be as healthy and as long-lived 
as people in England — if they only oosformed to a 
mode of eating, drinking and clothing suitable to 
the climate. Batcher's meat three times a day, 
with a goodly accompaniment of strong drinks in 
between heavy mealSj is, I should imagine, too heavy 
and too stimulating a dietary for a warm climate. 
The atmosphere is dry, which condncea to health.' 
The hot winds are disagreeable, bat they only occur 
some few times in the year, and are soon over when 
th^ do come. On the other hand, the changes 
from heat to cold are sudden, and they require to 
be carefully guarded against, for they are inimical 
to persons of delicate constitution. When X have 
stated these facts, I havB said the worst of the 
Australian climate, in Victoria. The death-rate in 
Melbourne, in 1867, was 24'71 (or 24}) to every 
1000 inhabitants ; bat for the whole of Victoria it 
was only 18'06, or, in round numbers, 18 in eveiy 
thousand. In considering this favourable result, it 
most be borne in mind that the population of a 
young colony has not, as a rule, many aged people : 
it is mostly composed of the young and healthy of 



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46 TICtOEIA. 

both sexes : such only are fitted, and such only 
selected by emigration agents to perform the hard 
work of colonizatioa. Men in the prime and vigour 
of life are the men to give up home and comitry, to 
found another in distant, and at times unsettled, 
lands : the sick, the aged and infirm are left behind to 
increase the death-rate in a greater ratio than would 
be exhibited, if the men of yonth and enterprise 
had not gone away. The death-rate in the colony 
is low, because aU the health conditions are more 
favoorable than they are at home — at least as things 
are at present. I sabmit that this view of the 
subject is reasonable, and that a fair comparison 
between the rate of mortality in England and in her 
colonies, respectively, cannot fairly be instituted, 
until the whole of the present race of colonists has 
passed away and is succeeded by a generation of 
native-bom Australiana, (and, even then, there will 
be disturbing causes from fresh streams of emi- 
gration) who may be presumed to have discovered 
the best ways of accommodating themselves to the 
Australian climate — whereby, no doubt, they will 
have secured for themselves to an equal extent, if not 
to a greater, the blessing of health and longevity 
enjoyed by their British forefathers. 

No metropolis could be much better supplied with 
domains (in irhich original native trees stand in 



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UEZ-BOUBNE CEUETEBY. 47 

grass lauds) than is Melbourne and ita suburbs. 
These ample reserves have been appropriated for . 
parks and for variona other purposes of a public 
tdiaracter. The Cemeteiy reserve just outside the 
town, consisting of 160 acres, ia beautifully and 
artistically laid out with walks and ornamental 
shrubberiea. At the intersection of some of the 
walks are handsome aummer-houaes of an octagonal 
shape, affording shade from the sun, Etnd shelter 
from the rain. There are numerous tombs and monu- 
ments constructed of marble or Iree-atone ; and in 
the part of the ground where very poor people are 
buried, I noticed rows of fresh made graves aide by 
side. I inquired of the grave-digger under what 
regulations the poor were buried. From his explana- 
tions I learned that their graves were dug from 
seven to eight feet deep ; that the first coffin being 
lowered to the bottom of the grave is covered over 
with a "sprinkling of earth" just enough to hide it 
from view, for one or several d^s, as the case may 
be, until another ooffin arrives to t^e its place on 
the top of the one already in the grave; and that 
thia operation ia repeated until the grave is full- 
that ia to say, until it contains three or four bodies. 
Here they he packed closely together—" dust to 
dust" — stranger to stranger — seldom friend to 
friend. There is at least one good regulation con^ 



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48 VICTORIA. 

nected with the graves of the pooPj namelyj that the 
lid of the top coffin most be three feet below the 
surface of the ground, I looked into several graves 
containing each bnt one coffin with the customary 
" sprinkling " of earth thrown over them, and it 
occurred to me with some force, that if coffins were 
suffered to remain in this condition for several days 
in very hot weather, the results, in a sanitary point 
of view, might be, to say the leaat, objectionable. 
The charge for each body interred in this " poor" 
way is SOs — that is, I presume, if the friends of the 
deceased have the means of paying it. At all events, 
the general rule is that the proprietors of the ceme- 
tery receive £6, when each grave has taken in its 
*'faU" complement of four bodies. In order to meet 
the wishes of different religious bodies, there are 
separate portions of the ground set apart and ap- 
propriated to the various communities of Christians 
— as well as separate chapels for the performance of 
the last rites of religion. The grounds are well kept, 
and present the appearance of a garden filled with 
beautiful monuments; so far, at least, as the oft- 
repeated and freqnently inartistic designs of ceme- 
tery masons may claim to be regarded as ' beauti- 
ful.' To walk through this burial ground and see 
the tombs of so many young people, who left their 
northern homes full of life, aiterprise^ and high 



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"welcome HcaaET," 49 

. expectations is a melancliolj sigbt — relieved in some 
measure by the presence of flowers and evergreens 
mingling in abundance amidst the graves, and hol- 
lowing "God's Acre" with their fragrance and 
beautj. 

Ono day, I paid a visit to the Melbourne MuBenm. 
The Melbourne University forms a part of it — snp- 
plemented by a building at the rear— the latter 
being a large hall, 160 feet in length by 6Q feet in 
width. The space within this hall is further supple- 
mented by galleries running round its four sides. It 
contains a valuable and interesting collection of 
staffed birdp, animals and reptiles peculiar to Aus- 
tralia. Besides which it p<«sesses — what is of far 
more importance in a practical point of view — the 
finest and most complete collection of models of 
mines — alluvial and quartz — together with models of 
mining machinery — that is anywhere to be found. 
Here is also a model of the celebrated " Welcome 
Nugget" which was found at Ballarat, on the 9th of 
June, 185S, and which weighed unsmelted 184 lbs. 
9 oz. and 16 dwts,* This nugget was considered 
to be the largest in the world ; but during my stay- 
in Melbourne two poor labouring men, respectively 
named Deeson and Oates, who for some time had 
been at work digging and washing "stuff" for gold 
* One aalbaritf giveg the weight at 184 Iba. 9 oz. 6 dwis. 



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ho • VICTOSU. 

on some land in BuU-dog G-11II7, at Moliagul, in the 
Dunolly district of Victoria, found a still larger 
nugget. ' On the &th of Febmaiy, 1869, these two 
mon (aB related by the Dunolly Express) were at' 
work on their clainij digging about the roots of 
a tree, when Deeson's pick struck somethiug hard. 
As it struck the gronnd with the point, he remarked, 
" D — ^n i^ I wish it was a nngget, and had broken 
the pick." Sore enongh it was a nugget, which 
nature thousands of years ago had embedded in tbe 
earth, and here it had lain for countless generations, 
with bat two inches of soil over it to hide it from 
view. The men's hearts must have been well nigh 
ready to leap into their mouths, as they laboriously, 
and with great effort, unearthed this ponderous mass 
of gold. This nu^et they named the "Welcome 
Stranger." After Deeson's sitting op with their 
great prize the whole of tha night, they convoyed it 
to the London Chartered Bank at Dunolly, where it 
was broken dp. It took five hours to break and cut 
it to pieces by means of a eledge hammer and cold 
chisels. After this, it was melted, and found to con- 
tain 2268 oz. 10 dwts. 14 gr., equal to 189 lbs. 
10 dwts. 14 gr. troy, of pure gold, exclusive of about 
a pound weight of " gold chips " given away — 
before the mass was smelted — to their particular 
friends. It was fully five pounds heavier than the 



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"WELCOHZ STRUiaXB," 51 

"Welcome Nugget" (wtich was weighed before 
smelting); audit is therefore now the "Welcome 
Stranger" nugget, which, before being melted down, 
was the largest nngget of gold in existence, and 
brought the lucky finders nearly £10,000 Bterling. 



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CHAPTER T. 

THE THBATSB BOYAL — THE BEPEESHHEFT BABS : INCI- 
DENTS OCTSIDE CHINKSB POPULATIOH CHIITESB 

JOSS-H0D8E CHINESE CABTINO NO CHABQE FOB 

ADMISSION FASHIOSABIE PB0UENADE8 — STYLE OP 

DKES8 — PUBLIC PARKS — THE TAEKA-YABEA-^BOTAHI- 
CAb SABDSN5 — SCENERY OF STUDLEY PABE AND THE 
TABKA. 

Theatbical amusement is abundaut m tlie city of 
Melbourne — Melbourne has several theatres. The 
principal ones arc in Bourke Street. When I was 
there the Theatre Royal held the palm of superiority. 
It is connected with an hotel, and has its principal 
entrance from Bourke Street. The entrance leads 
to a fine hall, which in its turn leads to one of the 
interior doors of ingress into the theatre itself. 
This elegant hall has its modem attractions : it has 
two " refreshment bars," one to the right, the other 
to the left of you, as yon enter, lliese bars were at- 
tended to by ten (of coarse) good looking but rather 
Ehowy young ladies. Five men were placed on each 
side behind the barsj but they did not appear to be 
remarkable for politeness or good manners, and the 
ciYil phrase of "thank yon" was one which tbey 



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ts. S3 

had apparently forgotten— -if, indeed, they had ever 
learnt it. Perhaps they were not aware that a 
certain show of " colonial independence " is quite 
compatible with London civility, and tends to main- 
tain mntoal respect. Cases of this kind, however, 
are not general in Melbonme; bat I came across 
a similar instance of i^liin nncnltnred manner at a 
certain hotel, not far &om Heidelberg, where, having 
called for a bottle of wine, it was brought to my- 
self and party by a very yonng woman, who put 
down the tray, with the' glasses tamed npside 
down, took the money, and left iJie room without 
speaking, leaving us to arrange the glasses om-- 
Belves. This may seem a trivial matter, bnt it 
would not occur in England, and I only mention it 
to show that colonial manners are Bometimes ofT- 
handed, if not rude. However, .notwithstanding 
these little omissions of ceremony, which time will 
doubtless remedy, Melbourne is wonderfully like a 
great and prosperous commercial city in England. 
Melbourne, indeed, like the older cities of Europe, to 
some extent affords contracts between plenty on the 
one hand, and poverty on the other ; proving, by the 
"logic of facts," that poverty in one shape or an- 
other, is a permanent evil — inseparable from the 
social ayatem — always to be battled with and re- 
lieved, but never to be wholly extinguished. 



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bi TICTOBU. 

Wliile Bbaading od the pareinent in front of the 
Theatre Royal, I could almost fancy myself in iront 
of the Haymarket Theatre in London, There were 
groups of little girls selling bonquets of flowersj and 
a boy selling matches. I observed one cnrly-headed 
little fellow, abont six years of age, selling cigar- 
lights. He came np to me. " What does father 
do, my little man T" I asked him. " Be is sick, 
sir," he replied j "will yon bay a box of lights 7'* 
So I took two boxes of him, by way of enconrage- 
ment, but as I did not require such wares, I returned 
them again, which seemed to give him infinite plea- 
sure, and he toddled off grinning, to look out for 
other customers. 

Melbourne has its Chinese quarter in Little 
Boorke Street. Here are numerona rfiopa and 
houses occupied by Chinese, who supply the peculiar 
wants of their countrymen, including the staple 
requirements of tea, rice and opinm. There was 
nothing attractive in the appearance of these shops : 
they were dull, dark, and not very clean. I could 
find only one handsome Chinese shop in all Mel- 
bourne, and that was kept by a " celestial " indi- 
vidual rejoicing in the name of Fong Fat. He 
indeed, had an excellent display of Chinese fancy 
goods, in the way of carved ivoiy work, ebony 
work, pereelain baskets — besides tea and tobacco. 



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CHINESE POFUUTION. 55 

Numbers of theBe Chinese immigrants are hawkers 
aboat the Btreeta of Melbonrne. They carry their 
fancy wares in baskets suspended from the ends of a 
stout bamboo cane laid horizontally across the 
shonldcra. Their flat and tawny visages, peculiar 
dress and manners (which contrast so strangely with 
those of Europeans) form one of the singular sights 
of Melbourne, 

The first great influx of Chinese into Melbourne 
caused considerable anxiety. There was some alarm 
lest John Chinaman and his fellow celestials, with 
their remarkable institutions, should take root in 
the country; for in 1867 they numbered 34,874. 
They were nearly all ma],es, and it was said they had 
many objectionable customs and practices amongst 
them. Just before that apoU-taxof £10 "pernob" 
was imposed upon them to restrict their ingress 
into Victoria. However, eventually, the social diffi- 
culty proved not to be of such magnitude as had 
been asserted; and it was further abated by the 
gradual diminution of the Chinese population, &om 
34,874 in 1857, to 24,732 in 1861 ; at the latter 
date there were only eight women in the com- 
munity. At the close of 1867 there were 15,676 
Chinese employed in the gold fields, or 4458 less 
than the previous jeta. As iar as I could judge 
from what I saw of them, the Chinese appeared to 



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56 TICfTORU. 

be a fi-Qgal, temperate and indastrioua class. la 
gold-hunting they dng a^ray in gronnd npon which 
Europeans did not think it worth while to bestow 
their labour. In fact they were the ghanere of the gold 
fields. Moreover, they cultivated their ground with 
great labour and perseverance, producing abundant 
orops of vegetables in perfection. Still, practices of 
a debasing character were known to exist amongst 
them J and afW all th^ were only birds of passage. 
A few, howeverj got married to European women, 
and are likely to settle down where £hey are. The 
great bulk of them contributed to the resources of 
Victoria, and added to its wealth and revenue. These 
focts should not be forgotten in legislating for the 
Chinese. Exceptional laws are sometimeB accom- 
panied by injustice j and as there is now no fear of 
the population of Victoria being inundated by an 
exodus issuing forth from CIuDa (as appeared 
not unlikely to be the case at one time) it is but in 
accordance with the spirit of the age that restrictive 
legislation, aa regards the Chinese, should be re- 
considered. 

If the Chinese in Victoria did not bring with them 
from the celestial empire the "wives of their 
bosoms," they brought with them — en revanche— tiie 
idols of their forefethers. This fact, of which I had 
previonly beard, was made patent to me on a certain 



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CHINS8B JOSB-HOCSK. 67 

occasioB, when I paid a visit to Emerald Hill. On 
Emerald Hill, a suburb of Melbourne, stands a 
Chinese Joss House, or place of worship. It is an 
imposing edifice. It is high and biult of brick ; the 
front, incongrooos, bnt ornamental in style, is faced 
and finished in compo-^ork. Divers incriptions and 
characters, as well as a varietj of gay Chinese flags 
" hung oat," distingnish it in a marked manner from 
the Barronnding buildings. The front doors were 
closed when I first saw it ; bnt on looking about I 
perceived a Chinese attendant. I pointed to the 
joss-house, and intimated in dumb show that I 
should like to enter. He pointed to the door, and 
nodded his head. I went in by a side door, and 
found myself in a kind of ante-hall, in which was an 
altar, and which bore some resemblance to a Roman 
Catholic chapel. Passing through this I entered 
the grand hall, spacions and lofty. Here I could 
well have imagined myself inside a gigantic curiosity 
shop, decked out with ancient bnt motley-hued flags 
and streamers, bearing inscriptions, which to me 
were mysterious emblems and hieroglyphics. 

The hall was divided into two nearly equal paits. 
The back portion of it appeared to be the sacred 
part — the sanctum sanctorum. The effect of it was 
that of gloomy and grotesque splendour. The front 
or outer half, where I Btood, was more light and 



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58 TICTOBU. 

cheerful. Here the walls and the ceilings were hong 
with a profusion of gay banting, gaudy emblems, 
balloons, and long narrow boards : on most of them 
were inscriptiona in Chinese characters, executed in 
blue and gold, interblended with and relieved by 
beautiful red and green colours. These different 
objects were htmg so thickly as almost to hide the 
ceiling. In one comer stood what looked like a 
huge vertical umbrella. Imagine an umbrella with 
perpendicrdar sides — in fact a hoUow cylinder, about 
five feet high and three feet wide, formed out of 
beaatiAil tapestiy, fringed cdong the border, and 
supported and carried about by a long thick stick 
running up the centre to the cover at the top. 

The inner, or what I took to be the "sacred part" 
of the temple was shut off from the outer part by a 
railing, and the fioor was slightly raised and ap- 
proached by an ascent of two steps. I entered tiie 
fane. In the centre of the front of it were placed 
two altars, one behind the other. The base of the 
front one was exquisitely and elaborately carved in 
relief, the figures and foliage being gilded and 
standing oat from a black ground. Suspended 
above, but in advance of this altar-piece was another 
fine specimen of Chinese carving. It represented 
apparently a tournament, and was executed in high 
relief. The figures were coloupod green and gold. 



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CHINESl CASVTSO. £9 

and stood out from a panel having margins of red 
and black all round. The equestrian figm^s on this 
pane! appeared to stand oat trom a back ground of 
mosaic. The more I looked at this singnlar work of 
art, the more I felt conYinced, that in whatever else 
tiie Chinese may be deficient, they are oar maatera 
in many, if not all kinds of carmg. Arranged on 
these altars and abont them, were varions specimens 
of carving and gilding, representing brazen inatm- 
ments and figures of an imaginary character, unlike 
any natnral object, animate or inanimate. There 
were also some very fine porcelain vases, and a 
variety of nondescript articles — imconth "fixings" 
in brass and other met^s, and a mass of grotesque 
tenamentsj making np an "omninm-gathemm"' 
of celestial paraphernalia rarely met with outside 
China. All this time I was alone, and my eyes had 
become accustomed to the faint light of the place. 
Aa I peered curiously about me, I expected every 
moment to see a high priest of the temple, or at 
least an attendant, Start forth from one of the 
ifumeroTis recesses, or firom behind the drapery, and 
interrogate me, with "What dost thou here, O 
stranger ?" But I saw nobody— heard nobody : all 
was silent. There was a passage round and between 
the front and back altars. The farther I proceeded 
ia exploring these passages the darker it became. 



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60 TICTOEIA. 

Tlie only light was from two dim and glimmering 
lamps on the back altar. There might, I thought, 
be an open trap door in the fioor. I found none ; 
but in one comer I saw the figure of an animal — 
half goat — half pony. What effect was all this 
idolism and symbolism intended to produce ? If to 
create a sentiment of awe and fear on the part of the 
heathen worshippers, I confess the arrangements 
were well calculated to beget that result. At length 
I qnitted the temple as I had entered it, withoat 
having seen any one ; but on leaving, I looked in at 
a little oEBce or porter's lodge near the side entranoe, 
and with the recollection of European custom lin- 
gering in my memory, respecting the tolls levied of 
visitors at such places as Milan Cathedral and West- 
minster Abbey, I asked a CMuaman who was busy 
Bcmbbiug some utensils of brass — probably sacred 
vessels belonging to the temple — " What's to pay V 
He replied "No underBtand." So pointing to the 
Joss house, and holding up a shilling, I offered it to 
him. But waving his hand with a deprecating 
gesture, he said, " No money," which I interpreted 
to mean '^No charge for admission," and walked 
aw&y, not without some admiration for Chinese 
notions of ecclesiastical propriety. 

The inhabitants of Melbourne appear to be scarcely 
ever dull. During those warm, clear and beautiful 



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PASHIONJlTtLS PBOKENADBa. 61 

daya which in Victoria are neither " few nor far 
between," the good citizens of the Southern metro- 
polis (especially the female portion) "take their 
-walks abroad" and enjoy themselves with wonderinl 
zest. Kich or poor, geatle or simple, there they 
were, promenading, shopping, sightseeing or pic< 
nicing — some riding — some walking. The first- 
class carriages, I noticed, were generally filled witJi 
fashionably drossed people; the second-class with 
passengers respectably attired. I saw no third- 
class carriages on the suburban railways ; bat on 
one occasion I observed on the Castlemaine line 
third-class carriages open at the sides, and occapied 
mostly by Chinamen. In Collins, Bourke, Swanaton 
and Elizabeth Streets, on a fine afternoon may be 
seen, regardless of heat np to 80 degrees, hosts of 
ladies fiitting about in the most airy and fascinating 
style — fluttering like bo many butterflies in the sun- 
shine — some very pretty, but all interesting to look 
at, thongh generally baring pale complexions. As 
to their dresses, I am at a loss to describe them — 
BO great is the variety of tint and texture. I have 
seen the " Row," in Hyde Park, and Regent Street 
in London J the Champa Elys^es in Paris j the great 
square of St. Mark's, Venice; the Corso and the 
Pincian at Rome ; and the Toledo at Naples ; and 
in the matter of dress, I would nndertake to match 



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the ladies of Melbourne against the fashionable 
dames who frequent the promenades in question : in 
short, they dress in the extreme of fashion. There 
was the diminutiTe and dainty bit of a bonnet 
perched on the top of the head ; there were graceful 
robes of light texture and varied hue ; there were 
elegant but flimsy toilettes in white, artistically 
trimmed with a mazy outline of blue. The designer of 
these dresses and decorations (whether male or female) 
must have been something of ao architect, or an 
" artiste " acquainted with geometry, for there was a 
good deal of scroll and plain arabesque work displayed 
in the designs. Other ladies there were walking on 
the footpaths, and sweltering too, I shonld imagine, 
in sombre dresses and bonnets made of stuffs or silks 
—in various shades, from brown to black. Again 
yon may see a bevy of young ladies resplendent with 
ribbons of every hue in the rainbow — (theMelbonme 
*' girls of the period ") dangling down their backs 
or floating like streamers in the wind. All these 
diversities, however, harmonize very well together, 
and produce a picture of out-door life very agreeable 
to the spectator — very airy — ^very gay and lively ; 
and, no doubt, very satisfactory to the Pa's, Ma's, 
and husbands who could afford to " stand " so much 
fashionable finery. All this may possibly indicate 
. a tendency to extravagance, and a love of display ; 



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" DOST-BTORMS." 63 

but it indicates at the same time a large mine <^ 
wealth ia the backgrotmd — a certain amonnt of 
affluence and luxury, which proclaim the rapid 
Btridea which civilization has made, and the large 
«ai rapid fortunes which settlers are enabled to ao* 
cumulate, in the colony of Victoria. 

Many of the streets in Melbourne are famished 
with verandas, as wide as the footpaths — affording 
an agreeable shade Irom the sun on hot days, and 
shelter from the rain in wet weather. The main 
dioroughfares are well watered in summer; this 
cools the air, keeps down the dust, and makes it 
pleasant to walk about. Occasionally, however, the 
flying clouds of dust are so great, that no watering 
or other contrivance can overcome them. These 
dust-clouds will then envelope everything withia 
reach, and will even penetrate into the houses. For- 
timately these " dust-storms" are soon over, Wintet 
is considered to be the pleasantest season in Mel- 
■boume; only then the gay and pleasure-loving 
citizens miss the flowers, the fruit, and the pic-uics 
which the summer and autumn bring with them. 
But we are most of us hard to please — poor weak 
mortals that we are I I wonder what sort of a world 
it would be if we aU had the regulation of times 
and seasons, according to our caprice, or our "noble 
phantasy." Winter would he too wet and cold, or 



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64 VICTOBIA. 

Hammer would perliap3 be too warm and dry for tia. 
It reminds one of the words of the poet, "man 
never is, bat always — to be blest." I suppose the 
trae philosophy is to be content wtth things as we 
find them. 

GoUingwood is a large and important saborb of 
Melbourne. Most of the working people reside in this 
qnarter : there is room for improrement in its streets 
and dwellings. There are many shabby looking 
houses of the early days, and not a few wooden ones. 

As I have previoasly observed, there are but few 
places that can boast of such great public reserves 
of land as Melbourne possesses. What is called the 
Great Park appeared to me to be the largest of any, 
and to contain at least 1000 acres — if we include 
the Experimental Farm, Acclimatization Society's 
Grounds, the Cemetery, Prince's Park, Show Yards, 
Horse Market, and University Grounds, — all of which 
appear to be within its boundaries. The Uoyal and 
Prince's Parks may be said to be still in their pri- 
mitive state; tbey are green with native graasesj 
and dotted with scmbby and crooked native trees. 
I believe most of the large trees once there, were cut 
down to supply timber for the wants of the early 
settlers. The Acclimatization Grounds, when I sfeir 
them, were in excellent order and well stocked with 
choice collections of plants and shrubs, and with a 



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THE TAEEA AT PEINCE's BKIDOI!. 65 

great variety of birds and animals foreign and 
domestic, which it may be hoped, in the course of 
time, will spread their progeny abroad all over the 
colony. The Society's grounds are well worth a 
visit. 

The oatdoor sight which chiefly attracted my at- 
tention was the river Tarra, above Prince's Bridge. 
This fine stone bridge, a single arch of 150 ft. span, 
was completed in 1850, and separates the traffic or 
shipping portion of the Tarra from what may be 
called the raral or sylvan part of it, above the 
bridge. I looked over the parapet and up the 
stream, and then glancing downwards at the 
waters beneath me, observed that they were deep 
and dark>looking. This part of the river is not 
nearly so mnch contaminated by sewage as that 
below bridge, and being free from the flow of tidal 
water, is fresh, tbongh not used for drinking pur- 
poses. Before me in the stream was a pretty sight, 
that would have gladdened the eyes of amateur 
oarsmen and connoisseurs on the Thames, anywhere 
between Putney and Kew : — there lay a number of 
gaily painted sfeiSs and pleasure boats, of every 
size and variety, and of the most approved atyle of 
construction. These trim-built craft can be hired 
by the hour or distance, whether by parties pro- 
ceeding up the river, or by " ingenuous youngsters " 



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■who merely want to have a " pall " on tlie water. 
On the opposite side of the river was a boat-bnilding 
establiehmentj wliicli appeared to be pretty well 
patronizedj judging from the number of pleasure 
boats which I noticed passing up and down stream. 

At length I quitted my post of obserration on 
the bridge, to walk along by the side of the Yarra. 
To see a rirer, and to know that it ia never dry, is 
a pleasure most highly appreciated in Australia. 
The Yarra, starting from the bridge just mentioned, 
has " Richmond Park," with its famous Cricket 
ground, on the right bank, and the Botanical Gar- 
dens on the lell. I continued my walk along by 
the Yarraj passing first through a shady grove c^ 
acacias, and next through a plantation of willows, 
which brought me to some pleasant and well shaded 
tea gardens, where colonial wines, fruits, and cakes, 
could be obtained at moderate prices. I was now 
at the entrance to the Botanical Gardens. For 
some distance above and below this spot the Yarra 
is about 100 feet wide, and in some places from 20 
to 40 feet deep. A gardener who was watering 
some young trees recently planted on itn banks> 
told me that not far from here, at the iron bridge, 
the river was over 50 feet in depth. 

From out of the tea-gardens I stepped into the 
Botanical Gardens — a picturesque block of hilly and 



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BOTANICAL aABCENS. 67 

andulating land, witli a margin of flat srrampy 
groQiid by the river. These Gardens have their 
gravelled Tralksj their rare foUectiona of trees, 
shniba, and flowers, their hot-honees for ezotio 
plants, their aviaries, their pavilion for music, and 
their trophy of Knssian guns, encompassed by a 
spiked fence — similar to that which stands (or at 
least which formerly stood) in St. James's Park, 
London. How the Australians do like to copy Old 
Engluid ! There is no place like it, they say : 
they are proud of it — of having sprung from it ; and 
this sentimeat is almost as strongly cherished by 
the uew generation, who have never set foot on the 
ancestnd soil, as it is by native-bom Britons. And 
yet, perhaps it might be urged, they have not too 
mnch to thank England for, in the shape of mate- 
rial aid and aasistance in their start in life : from the 
outset they have been mostly self-supporting as 
colonists, and now it may be affirmed they are com- 
pletely so. At all events, they are intensely loyal as 
a whole. Does Great Britain take note of and 
valae this loy^ty ? If on no other aooounb but for 
the sake of her own greatness, let ns hope that she 
does. 

I passed out of the Botanical Gardens by a hand* 
some iron trellis bridge, which here spans the Tarra. 
From this place I entered the Richmond Park, or 



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68 VICTORIA. 

"Police Paddock," ae it is profanely called, and 
walked past the fine cricket ground, where a n amber 
of players in orthodox costume were in full " drive " 
about the wickets. The ground is surrounded 
by a belt of trees and shrubs. Here, then, was 
another "British Institution" which had been 
"acclimatized" in the southern hemisphere. It 
has already taken deep root in the new soil into 
which it haa been transplanted ; and the Antipodean 
batsmen and bowlers (though at present no match 
for the picked players of England) look forward to 
the time when they can send a chosen band — an 
" eleven" of their own — to contest the palm of 
victory at Lord*s or the Oval with the Mite of the 
Old Country — the pupils entering the arena with 
their former masters. Rivalry of this kind, on a 
grand " international " scale, ia at least as well 
calculated as official courtesies (not invariably conr- 
teons), to maintain the bonds of friendship between 
the people of different states, who are precluded by 
time and distance from personal intercourse. 

Some days after this, I paid a visit to another 
park outside Melbourne, called Studley Park. This 
is the place from which to view the picturesque and 
intricate sinuosities, the labyrinthine windings, of 
the Tarra, I crossed the Yarra into the park by 
Johnston Street bridge, a wooden structure, com- 



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STUDLET PAEK. 



posed of a aiogle arch by means of bent pknks^ 
and now, tliougli made of European red deal, fast 
rotting away. Studley Park is a hilly and remark- 
able looking recreation ground, sparsely dotted with 
native trees, spread over a surface of 203 acres. It 
is here that the ever-flowing and devious Tarra per- 
forms its most eccentric movements, and riota 
wantonly in its manifold loops and carves, as it 
bends and winds serpent-like, "'midst wandering 
mazes lost," elaborating peninsulas by the way, as 
it meanders hither and thither along its. tortuous 
course. Now it runs along between steep banks 
on either side, and then there is a change to low 
banks, or perhaps only one bank is high and the othei^ 
low. But where the banks are very high the gronnd 
remains in its primitive state ; while in places where 
they were low and dat, and the soil alluvial, I 
observed vegetable gardens laid out, vine-clad banks> 
and fruit trees, out of the midst of which peeped 
the homely but neat and trim cottage. 

(Generally speaking, for some miles above and 
below Studley Park, the Tarra-Tarra (to give it its 
full name) is from 70 to 100 feet wide, and its 
waters are smooth and deep; but there are two 
rocky ledges crossing its bed, one below Prince's 
Bridge, which I have previously alluded to as the 
'' falls," and the other at the upper point of Studley 

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70 TICTOBU. 

Parkj where the river forma a aort of double curve 
like the letter S. A large stream, called the Merri- 
Merri, emptira itself into a hollow of this cure; 
and here stands " Dight's Hill," a etone building 
opposite the ' falls.' These ' falls ' are, more cor- 
rectly speaking, rapids ; in the midst of which are 
two very small green islands. The banks of Stud- 
loy Park, overlooking these falls and the low-lyiog 
land on the opposite side, are, I should say, 100 feet 
in height and exceedingly steep. 

A walk in the early morning along by the ' banks' 
of Btndley Park, where they are fringed or bounded 
by the deep and dark^owing Yarra, has its peculiar 
charm ; the charm of deep silence and solitnde com- 
bined with the wild and picturesque beauty of the 
landscape — Nature's own handiwork— diversified 
here and there by a casual view of a garden or 
cottage— the work of man. There were vineyards, 
too, to be met with on the banks of the Tarra, 
which shewed the perfection and the facility with 
which grapes can be grown, even close to Melbourne. 
The vines generally were growing on sioall square 
plots of land^ and were supported by poles. The 
scene reminded me of various parts of France, 
south of Paris. In the suburbs of Melbourne it 
was not nnueual to see vines trained against the 
verandahsi with bunches of grapes hanging there- 
from. 

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FLOODS IK THX TABU. 71 

To look at &0 Yarra, as it flows quietly along in 
its low bed, who would imagine tliat it could ever 
swell to tlie dimenBiona of a grehi flooded river, as 
it did in 1863, when the waters rose irom 20 to SO 
feet, and in some places as much as 40 feet, and 
overflowed the lower parta of Melbourne and tha 
low-lying lauds between it and Sandridge. On 
that occasion the devastating waters caused great 
dama^ to the cultivators along its banks. Of 
some of the destruction oocaaioned to beautiful 
grounds, and to rare trees and plants, in the low 
parts of the Botanical Gardens, I wba myself an 
eye-witoeas on Cfaristm&8.day of 1863, after the 
floods had subsided. Fortunately, howeverj these 
great Yarra floods are few and Cu between. 



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CHAPTER YI. 

FDBIIO BtnLDIKaa — THI custom H0U8B — TBBASnET— 

PABLUHINT HOnSE — ^NUUBEB OF HCMBBBS QUALI- 

FIcinONS OP VOTERS THE POBT OFFICE — MDBEDlt 

or SCDLFTDBE IKC FAmTINQ THE FBES LIBiU.ET — 

EDITCITIOIT. 

No one, who has seen Melbourne, will aay that its 
GoTermQflnt has not made a splendid beginning in 
the yfaj of erecting pnblio buildings on a grand 
scalej — stmctoreB of great magnitude designed in 
the classical style of architecture. These buildings 
have but one fault ; they are not finished : they will 
have to " wait a little longer " — for the good time 
that's coming. Heaawhile the idea involved in the 
commercialsapremacy of Melbourne — that of making 
it the Great city of the South — is never lost sight of. 
But there is a limit to the revenue of Victoria j and 
as common sense, whether at home or abroad, 
always prevails in the long ran, and makes the or- 
namental give way to the nsefnl, we hare as a resnlt 
that the colony of Victoria is opened up to trade 
and oommerce by means of great public works— 
BQch as roads, bridges, railways, and waterworks j 



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CrSTOU HOUSS AJID PASLUUBNT HOUSE. 73 

while Melbourne, very properlyj iB allowed to wait 
(as it can afford to do) for tke ezteDBion and com- 
pletion of several of its largoBt public baildings. 
The imposing size of the Cnstom Honse, however ia- 
coqiplete, attracts the attention of most strangers 
on their first landing in Flinders Street. In fact 
the impression created is partly owing to the nn- 
finished state of the building, whose ootlineB thus 
present a certain incomplete and dilapidated aspect. 
Still the wonder is that so mnch has been accom< 
pliahed in so short a space of time. 

The Treasury forma an imposing block of build- 
ing, with a blue stone base, and is faced above with 
a warm-toned freestone. In the rear of it are 
foundations of blue stone, intended some day, per- 
haps, for official residences. The Treasury looks 
complete in itself, and may be considered a good 
Bpecimea of colonial architecture. 

The House of Parliament which stands on an 
elevated site at the head of Bonrke Street, still wants 
its grand facade and its tower (intended to be 250 ft. 
high] to render it complete according to the original 
design. The main front of this massive block of 
building is not yet erected ; the rear front is bnilt, 
and displays a mass of architectural ornamentation, 
exeonted in a brownish freestone which looks very 
well to the eye, but does not seem as if it would 



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74 TICTOBIA. 

stand the wear and tear of the weather very well. 
HowereTj if the present design be carried ontj I think 
tiiere is no doubt the building will be a m^nific^it 
gtructnre when completed. Internally, the chambers 
of the two branolies of the Legislature measure 
each 76 feet in length by 40 in width and 38 in 
height. They are both elaborately and profusely 
decorated; in fact the Upper House — that is to say 
the Legislative Oounoil — is gorgeous with excess of 
omanient,^-B style of art which, to my mind^ looked 
heavy and overdone. The columns of this chamber 
are of stone, and the shafts of one block. 

The library and reading-rooms are well stocked 
with books and papers, and are no less splendid in 
their appointments and style of architecture than 
the other chambers. I noticed in the library a new 
ooatrivance to supersede the use of ordinary stoves 
and chimneys. Inserted in the base of one of the 
Wge columns was a fire place of brass work — the 
shaft, I presume, being made to do duty as a flue. 
The idea was at least novel and ingenious— in- 
tended mayhap as a further experiment to solve the 
problem — how to get rid of smoky chimneys. 

The Legislative Council {the Victoria House of 
Lords) consists of 30 members, elected by and 
representing six Provinces. It is elected for tm 



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THX LEQISIATITE CODKCIL. 75 

years. The qualifications of Toteis for members of 
tile Legialative Coimcil are as under ^-" 

" Every male person 21 years of age (not sabjeot 
to any legal incapacity) who shall be a naturalijsed 
or denizen subject of Her Majesty^ and who ^lall 
have resided in Victoria for twelve moniths previoTUi 
to Ist day of January or July in any year, and shaU 
have been natoralised or made denizen at least three 
years, is qualified to vote for members of the Legie-> 
lative Council, if he — 1. Owns lands or tenements 
of the clear value of £1000, or clear annual valne 
of £100 ; or, 2. Owns a lease of lands or tenements 
originally granted for a term of not less than 
fire years; or, 3. Occupies lands or tenements for 
which he is liable to pay a yearly rent of not less 
than £100; or 4. Is a gradoate of any University 
in the British Dominions, or a bairiater-at-law, 
solicitor, or conveyancer, or a legally qualified 
medical practitioner, or a minister of any church or 
religions denomination, or a schoolmaster possess- 
ing testimonials that he is qualified to teach under 
the Commissioners of Education of Great Britain 
and Ireland, or having Hke testimonials that he ia 
qualified under some competent board appointed by 
the Government of this colony, or an officer or re- 
tired officer of Her Majesty's land or sea forces, or 
a retired officer of East India Company's forces. 



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76 TICTORIA. 

except on actual service. Persons in possession of 
any of the. first three qnalificationa must take out an 
elector's right hy making personal application, and 
paying Is to registrar of division of province in 
which property is situate; persona in poaseaeion of 
4th qualification must, after having resided three 
months in provinccj take out an elector's right by 
mating personal application, and paying Is to re- 
gistrar of division in which elector resides." 

The Legislative Assembly (the Victoria House of 
Commons) is composed of 78 members, elected by and 
representing 49 districts. This body is elected for 
three years. The qualifications of voters for members 
of the Legislative Assembly are aa follows : — ■ 

"Every male person 21 years of age (not subject to 
any legal incapacity) Trho sludl be a naturalised or 
denizen subject of Her Majesty, and who shall have 
resided in Victoria for 12 months previous to 1st 
day of January or July in any year, and shall have 
been natnrahsed or made denizen at least three 
years, is qn^ified to vote for members of the Legis- 
lative Assembly, if he— 1. Besides in any electoral 
district J or, 2. Owns lands or tenements of the clear 
value of £50, or of the clear yearly value of £5 j or, 
8. Is upon roll of ratepaying electors. Persons in 
possession of first qualificatioa, after having reaided 
three months in district, must take out an elector's 



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POST OFFICE. 77 

right by making personal application, and paying 
Is to registrar of division in which elector resides } 
persons in possession of second qualification must 
take out an elector's right by making personal ap- 
plication, and payiDg Is to registrar of division in 
which property is situate. All persons residing in 
city of Melbourne, town of Geelong, or in any 
borough, shire, or road district, who pay rates, are 
entitled without application to be enrolled upon a 
roll of ratepaying electors for division of electoral 
district in which property is situated, if all rates due 
within three months before 20th June in each year 
are paid on or before that date, but not otherwise." 
Of all the public buildings in Melbourne, the Post 
Office appeared to me to be the finest ; nor do I 
remember ever having seen in any city or town of 
Great Britain (art, style and convenience being con- 
sidered) any Post Office able to vie with it. True, 
the site is a low one, at the corner of two great 
thoroughfares — Bonrke and Elizabeth Streets : thia 
takes away from the effect ; but it has about it an 
aspect of grandeur combined with lightness, finish 
and elegance, which I failed to discover in any other 
government buildings in Melbourne. And yet it is 
not " finished," another wing being still required to 
complete it, as originally intended. The base is 
constructed of blue stone — g, sombre-looking mate. 



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rial, but I should say next to granite in hardness 
and durability. Above this base the two fronts 
bearing npon the two streeta respectirely, are faced 
with a beaatifal white freestone. At the front angle 
is a handsome clock tower, four stories in height, 
supported by clostered colnmns and pilasters rising 
tier above tier and producing a very graceful and 
harmonious effect. The three orders of Grecian 
architecture are employed (in the two facades as 
well as the angle tower) in the usual rotation : — 
the lower columns being in the Doric style, the 
middle one in the Ionic, and the upper one in the 
Corinthian; the whole surmounted by the clock 
Btory. Occupying the lower portions of the two 
fronts, and reached by an easy flight of steps, are 
two open colonnades — one facing Bourke Street and 
the other Elizabeth Street. Here people assemble 
to receive and post letters and papers, to buy stamps, 
or to make inquiries at the windows under the 
colonnade. On some of these windows are written 
the name of the department to which they belong; 
on others, the various letters of the alphabet. 
Persons expecting letters to be left for them here, 
apply at window A, B, C or D, as the case may be, 
according to the letter of the alphabet correB> 
ponding with the initial of the somame. Of 
course there is a complete system of postal deli- 



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FOBLIC LIBEA.RT. 79 

very in Helbonnie, bat as there are ao many 
persona arriving and departing daily, who have 
letters addresHed to be left at the Post Office, 
an arrangement of this kind in more reqaisite here 
than it would be in a town in England. Scales to 
weigh letters are fixed on brackets to the walla of 
the colonnade. Melbourne may justly be prond of 
its Post Office, which, I was told, had coat £180,000, 
— aa also of its Public liibrary, which at the time I 
was there had coat for the building itself £50,994. 
The books were set down at £34,285, and the works 
of art, at about £I3]000. Altogether, I believe, the 
cost has been little less than £100,000 for this fine 
library which is free to all clasaea of the public. All 
honour to the protaoters and founders for their pnblio 
spirit 1 

I entered the Public Library and Museum of 
Sculpture and Painting in Swanston Street (not 
under the portico— for that ia not yet built) and 
found myself in the reatibule, or what I abould rather, 
perhaps, call the " Hall of Baets." Besides this, 
there were two other " halls,"— one to the right and 
one to the left— filled with statues, most of which were 
casts taken from the antique — in fact irom the worka 
of the most celebrated masters, ancient and modem. 
At the end of the third, or right hand hall, was a 
large room containing a Tfdaable and interesting 



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oollectioii of portraits of Aastrali&n and New Zealand 
GK>Temors. In this room was also a collection of 
Chinese curiosities. From the portrait room yon 
enter a large picture gallery, in which was displayed 
a considerable number of clioice paintings — the 
uncleas of the Victorian " National Gallery " of the 
fntore — the gem of the " Palace of the Fine Arts," 
which our grandchildren will doubtless see Sourish- 
ing towards the middle of the next century. 

Over the three lofty and spacious haUs which I 
have already designated, and approached by a noble 
flight of stairs, stands the spacious and magnificent 
hall devoted to the purposes of the Free Library of 
Melbourne. This Library and Beading Room is no 
less than 230 feet long by 50 feet wido and 34 feet 
high. It looks like an arcade with columns ranged 
on each of its sides. It is principally lighted from 
the roof. I counted 40 fluted circular Ionic columns 
and eight square ones, assisting to support the roof, 
and at the same time dividing this vast haU into 
sections. A lai^ portion of the entablatures and 
caps to the columns were picked out in a variety of 
harmonious colours. Down the centre of the room 
were ranged a series of lai^e library tables for tlie ac- 
commodation of readers. On either side of this lon^ 
reading room, and opening into it were thirteen small 
side rooms filled with books. Tliese rooms, loo, are 



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UELBOCSHX 7BBX UBBABT. 81 

supplied witK seats and tables for the conTenience 
of readers. Over these rooms Kgain, another etoiy 
higher, are galleries well stored with books. 

The rules and regulations by which this Library ia 
condacted are similar to those that belong to pnblio 
libraries everywhere, only there is greater freedom. 
Any one, of course, can enter free of charge, ha can 
go to the Tarioos bookshelves and select any book 
he wishes to see, take his seat at a table aad read 
it. No book is allowed to be lent or taken oatside 
the Library, which is open from 10 o'clock in the 
morning until 10 in the evening. Ladies, too, are 
admitted, and one or two of the side rooms are 
specially reserved for their use. During the year 
1867, the attendance, or total number of persona 
who visited the Library, was 92,457. 

Besides paying the reading-room a visit during 
the day, I went on two occasions in the evening 
between 8 and 9 o'clock. It was then brightly 
lighted up with gas, and there were from 60 to 80 
persons present, seated at the various tables, a» 
readers. From their dress and appearance I should' 
imagine that those who frequent the Library consist 
of clerks, tradesmen, and persons m easy circum- 
stances, in a much greater proportion than of the 
working classes ;— working men, as in some of the 
defunct Mechanics' Institutions in Englaud,^ not 



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caring to avail themselves of the treasures of know- 
ledge placed within their reach, to anything like 
the extent that might be expected. Sut then the 
edacation of the British workman (thoi^h he seema 
quite unconscious of the fact) is still at a very low 
ebb in the inteUectoal scale ; — excepting always here 
and there a few reading and thinking men, who 
stand out from the multitude, and who have little 
in common with their fellow workmen (in point of 
intelligence and culture] but the name. I have 
dwelt upon these details at some length, in order to 
show the provision that is made for the intellectual 
requirements of the age, in a distant colony of Great 
Britain ; and what I have stated will prove how 
much Melbourne is in advance of some great cities, 
with larger populations, in the United Kingdom. 
Nor are some of the other Australian cities far 
behind Melbourne in this matter. Sydney University 
and ita Museum, with its collection of Egyptian An- 
tiquities, is an institution that England might well be 
proud of. Melbourne too is noted for the number 
and efficiency of its charitable institutions, and it 
possesses a noble looking hospital, extensive and 
well arranged. 

As regwrds education in Victoria, out of an esti- 
mated population of 664,570 in March, 1867, there 
were 119,149 children attending schools, or about 



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I to every 5^ of the population. It ia farther stated* 
that "the actual attendance of each child on the 
roll equalled 132 school days, while in Canada the 
average attendance does not exceed 96 days, and in 
England 129 days. In Ireland the average attend- 
ance is 34.72 per cent, of the total number attending 
school ; in Victoria it is 48.68 per cent." One of 
the most agreeable sights in Melbourne ia the ex- 
tensive range of buildings constructed of stone, for 
the most part bnt one story in height, and known 
as the national model or training schools. Here the 
Australian " youngsters," part of the future " people" 
of, it may be, an independent State, may be seen at 
work or play— doing either by turns with equal 
satisfaction to themselves, to their parents, and to 
the Government that famished the means. 

I think I have now said enough about Melbourne 
ia 1 869. I eonld add much more, but time is pass- 
ing, and the space in my book is limited— besides 
which I have no wish to exhaast the patience of my 
readers; I will therefore change the scene and take 
them outside Melbourne a little way and then into 
the country, which produces the gold sent to 
England; the wool sent to Engluid; the wheat — 
some of which comes to England; the beef and 



* "Victorian Almanac, I 



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84 TICTOSU. 

mntton (preserved) tliat come to England; and, 
hatij, the vine, -which might he aent hither in greater 
qnantitiea than it ia ; — all these commodities, which 
are in a manner essentials, are sent to England not 
to he paid for in coin, bnt to be exchanged for 
BrUiih goodt. 



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CHAPTEK Vn. 

8AHDKIDGS PIEG — ^WILLIAUSTOWH — BIIDILBEBG, INAF- 
PBOPBIATELY 80 CALLED — THE TAH TEAK BXSER- 
VOIB: THK ROAD TO IT AHD TWO TiniNPIKBS — THE 
RE9SB70IB ! ITS APPEARAHCE — ITS COKSTRtTCTIOH AND 
COST — ST. EILDA, SBIQHTOlir AND QOEXKSCLIFI, AS 
WATERINQ PLACES. 

WiLUAHSTOWH is a Suburb of Melbourne j it may 
fairly be considered a suburban aea-porb of tihat 
city. Going round by the bay, it is nine miles from 
Melbourne by railway. I wanted to see it, and took 
the short cutj so I started from Melboome and 
went to Siuidridgd Pier, a distance of 2^ miles, 
across low, swampy and sandy flats lyin^ between 
Hobson's Bay and Melboome. Sandri^e is a 
noted place. Who that haa been there can easily 
forget it ? It is the great place for embarcation to 
and debarcation from Barope, as well for passengers 
as for merchandise. It is the great landing place 
for all Victoria; and when a Melbourne man 
leaves for England, scores of friends and aa- 
qoaintances come trooping down the pier to see the 
ship, which is to bear relatives or friends away, as 



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they hopej bat for a time. It ia then tliat one sees 
the big clipper ahip movQ arway from the wharf, 
and one hears many a cheer rise from the pier, and 
many a fervent "good bye,^' "pleaaant voyage," 
and "God bless you" from friends and strangers, 
and from the crews of other passenger ahipa, which 
are soon to follow and be cheered in their tm^. 

Sandridge pier ia oonstmoted of wood, and ia 
1200 feet in length by 5S in width. On each side 
of it are ranged noble-looking merchantmen. It 
looks like a long straight street out through a forest 
of masts. Steam looomotives are running to and 
fro. Mercantile men in yellow alpacha blouses, 
white hats, and light waistcoats, are hurrying on 
board Vessels. Captains, with black hats and red 
foceS] are ofiF to town to see their agents or owners. 
Steam-engines are at work, lading and unlading 
reesela : here is a Chinaman — there a Frank. Irish 
labourers, Scotch mechanics, English sailors, — all 
at work on board the shipping ; while others are 
spectators, who look on from purs curiosity, or 
because they have nothing else to do. So wags 
the world at Uie Antipodes. I took the steamer 
from this pier across to Williamstown, a distance 
of five miles, I found it to be a half-dead-and- 
alive sort of place, but possessing a fine deep- 
water pier, a pat^it slip, and great facilities for 



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THZ AIJBBD OEAVnia DOCS. 87 

repairiQg ships, and if need be for building them; and 
these facilities were abont to be further greatly in- 
creased and extended by a fine large dry-dock, then 
in couree of oonstmctioQ out of the solid rook. I was 
shown orer the works, found them well adranced, 
of a most Bobstantial and permanent character, and 
when completed capable of docking the very largest 
ships. This dry-dock is called the Alfred Graying 
Dock, The foundation stone was laid by his Eoyal 
Highness the Dake of Edinburgh. The gold trowel 
presented to him on the occasion— coat £250. The 
amoont expended on the Graving Dock was — up to 
September 1869— the sum of 4100,759. Williams- 
town has the advantage of a level site ; and may yet 
boast of its ship-building capabilities. Its popu- 
lation is 6000. 

One day, not a sunshiny day, but a cloudy one, 
chosen purposely by way of change, I made up my 
mind to go to Heidelberg, eight miles from Mel- 
bourne. The very name of the place had charms 
for me. " Tou will find it a beautiful place," said 
one informant; "It's a pretty place, but not so 
romantic as Fern Tree Gully," said another. So 
I started for the " Hotel " in Bwanston Street, 
where the Melbourne " Br&dshaw" told me I should 
find ft 'Coach' at lOJ a.h. I found the 'Hotel' 
to be an ordinary public house, and the 'coach.' 
to be a street car with a lanky horse. " Eeally now, 

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and did yon expect a coacli ? " said tlie country 
driver, in reply to my inquiries as to where the 
, coach was, " This is the coach that goes to Heidel- 
berg," he exclaimed, pointing to his car, "and III 
engage to take yon down there and back safely." 
So I mounted to the back seat with other passen- ' 
gers, and away we went as fast as a lean horse, 
well-whipped, could drag us. The time of the year 
was summer. The snmmer of 1868-9, was a very 
dry one j it was more than diy, for the whole country 
was parched up, and thousands of sheep and cattle 
had died in the outlying districts for want of water. 
Under these circumstances I was going to see the 
country nnder its worst aspect, that of a droughty 
Australian summer. The rainfall for Melbourne in 
1868 was only 18-3 in. The average for the last 
ten years was 25*2 in. The greatest annual fall 
during these ten years was iu 1 863, when it was as 
high as 36'4 in. It was in this year that the great 
Yarra floods occurred.* As we left the town, and 
got on to the country road leading to Heidelberg, 
the fields, gardens, and farm-honses, had a neat 
English look about them. There were gentlemen's 
villas, too, with their plantations and pleasure- 
grounds, all beautifully, arranged, and laid ont 
with great neatness and style. Still I missed the 



* Melbonme ObKiratorj BeoordB. 



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A TICTOKIAH HEIDBLBEBO. OV 

fFeshuess and exuberant verdure wluch chSraclerise 
a midsummer English laudscape. Everything wore a 
parched look, save where a little irrigation had been 
resorted to ; there all was green and ajlvan ; but 
generally speaking the grass was burnt up, and the 
trees and shrubs looked thirsty. How dififerent, on ' 
this occasion, did the parks and fields about Mel- 
bourne appear to me, as compared with the green- 
ness and freshness which they displayed, when I 
saw them in the early part of the summer of 1863. 

We arrived at Heidelberg by mid-day. It con- 
sisted of several shops, a few private houses scattered 
abont, a handsome stone-built church, and two public- 
houses. The country sl\ round is a very pretty farming 
district, but rather hilly. Close to the village or 
hamlet of Heidelberg runs the Tarra- Yarra — which 
I looked upon as an old friend, rather diminished 
in volume compared with its appearance at the 
Botanical Guldens — still it was the same dark and 
sluggish stream, winding its way between the banks 
through an undulating country. I presume this 
place is called after Heidelbei^ in Germany, but 
though I looked about, for some features in the 
landscape, which might have suggested the propriety 
of naming this locality after a place famous for its 
scenery and historical associations, I looked in vain. 
Certainly there was the river Yarra, looking pic- 



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90 TICTOBU. 

toresque ; it liad a ruin, too, on ibs banks (an old mill 
bniltofvood). It was a spot, perhaps, that might be 
attractiTO to a pic-nio party; but there was nothing 
that conld recall the Neckar, nor the beautifully 
wooded heights above it, on which stand the still mag- 
nificent ruins of the Castle of Heidelberg. This is but 
a single instance out of hundreds or thousands that 
might be mentioned, of the singular inappropriate- 
ness of the names bestowed upon new localities by 
settlers in our colonies. Sometimes it ia grandilo- 
quent — applying old historical names to petty 
places ; but more frequently the nomenclature is 
slangy, Tolgar or triTial, or else it is barbarous and 
nuconth. This is a fact that must have occurred 
forcibly to all persons who have travelled iu the 
colonies. However, to return from this digression, 
as we could get nothing to eat at the ' Hotel ' but 
some biscuits, and as there was nothing more to be 
seen, we returned to town in oar jolting car, in not 
the best of spirits. There was one view, however, 
that I had not seen— a water-view, always an agree- 
able object to look at iu Australia. This was the 
Tan Yean Reservoir which supplies all Melbonme 
and its vicinity with water. It is situated near the 
foot of & range of hills called the Plenty Banges, 
and is about 600 feet above high-water mark at 
Hobson's Bay. In going to see the Tan Tean we 



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THE BOAD TO TAN TEAS, 81 

made ap a amall pic-nic party, the sheet of water 
in qaestion being a favourite resort of parties of 
this kind. The Yan Yean is 22 miles by road from 
Melbonme, but tbe length of the water-pipes, being 
laid in a straight line, is only 19 miles. We com- 
menced our journey early, as wo had to go end 
return on the same day, which would make the total 
distance to travel 44 miles. We had a conveyance 
to ourselves. 

The country through which we passed was of a 
rolling or undulating character. The road was a 
well-macadamized one, fenced in on both sides with 
three and four-post and rail fences for nearly the 
whole distance. Most of the land through which 
we passed was covered with ugly gum-trees, with a 
brownish yellow grass under them. Now and then we 
saw the black Anstraliau crow, looking exactly like 
an English one, only lai^r. Occasionally we heard 
the scream of some gandy-plumaged birds, and 
sometimes saw them fluttering about or disporting 
themselves irom tree to tree. This part of the 
country evidently was not famous for its agricultural 
produce : Uiere was but little cultivation. The land 
was bare of vegetation, and of a doll yellowish 
coloui^— the colour of the roads. The grass was 
wholly burnt np on the aurfaee; but the roots 
beneath were all safe, which were to send up their 



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mjriada of green bladesj and change the entire 
aspect of the country, as soon as their roots should 
have been watered by a copious rainfall. Here and 
there, were some smaU farmhouses with a field or 
two " stnmpt " and ploughed. I obaerred several 
blue-stone houses, with neat gardens, which helped 
to reheve a luidscape otherwise monotonous. 

We had travelled about 20 miles or more, and 
were getting near the object of our visit, when we 
were stopped at a cross road by two barriers placed 
across the highway, " What does this mean V I 
naked of the driver, who was getting down from hia 
seat. " Why, Sir, those 'ere are two tnmpike-gates, 
at which they makes us pay — a great shame— to 
rfljae money in this way to pay for keeping the 
roads." It is often considered a " great shame " to 
be made to pay taxes. In this case I fancied I 
understood the matter at once. Although a small 
rate on the adjoining lands would have answered 
the same purpose, yet, as the Australians love to 
keep the traditions and local institutions of the old 
country, they felt constrained, no donbt, to set on 
its legs once more, thia relic of a barbarous and 
fireebooting age — when the challenge of the high- 
wayman {and of his brother the toll-bar keeper) was 
" stand and deliver 1" 

We alighted here and walked on towards the 



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TAK TEAN BXBEBTOIB, 93 

Tan Yean reservoir. Aa yet we conld see no signa 
of it. I expected to find tke water pent np in a 
golly. The conntry now began to look a little billy, 
with a range of higher hills peeping out in the 
distance. We passed through a gate and ascended 
the slopes of aomo high ground. Here we met one 
of the officers in charge of the works, whom I foond 
very conrteoas, and who informed me that the 
reserroir, when full, covered an area of 1460 acres. 
" Oo on a little further, and yon will soon see it," 
he aaid. So I went. I came upon it suddenly. The 
full view struck me with aatonishment. What, a 
reservoir T No : an artificial lake nine miles in cir- 
cumference. There it lay at my feet, still and 
smooth as glass, what ia probably the largest arti- 
ficial sheet of fresh water in the world. We sat down 
upon the smooth tarfy banks to have some creature 
comforts. Many a pic-nio party had preceded ua 
on the ground,— -judging at least from the dihria of 
broken bottles and glassea, the fragments of biscuits 
and scraps of paper scattered about in all directions. 
At that moment a slight breeze ruffled the anr&ce 
and rippled the edges of the lake. It was cool and 
refreshing as it oame across the waters to fan the 
faces of our party as we sat lunching on the grass. 
The lake looked very picturesque ; it hesin a shallow 
and smooth yalley — at some distance from wiy high 



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94 TICTORU. 

ranges. On three sides it is BUrrounded by low and 
irregular baolEs; on the fourth, or itB lower and 
aarrow end is a huge dyke or great embankment 
thrown across to dam np the waters. It has been 
saggested to me tibat the idea of the reserroir has 
probably been borrowed from the Vartry Water- 
works in the connty Wicklow near Dablin. Upon 
this I can offer no opinion, as I have not seen the 
works in question, whioh, howerer, I am told are on 
a magnificent eoale — the " sheet of water " being 
about three miles in length by half a mile broad, 
formed in a sort of natural basin, snrrotmded on three 
sides by some of the Wicklow hills. The Anstialian 
lake is miu^ longer, and varies in width from one 
to two and a half mUes. There it was, indenting 
the land in one place, forming bays here and pro- 
montories there; at its head and sources it is 
backed by a range of wooded hills and bounded by 
grassy slopes, sparsely wooded on its two sides. On 
every side its aspect was agreeable and refreshing ; 
and it looked all the more striking in that it was the 
gigantic work of a very young community. The 
depth of these waters, when I was there, a dry 
season, was 20 feet in the deepest part, which is in- 
creased to 25 feet during the winter. The waters 
are used not only for drinking and culinary pur- 
poses, bnt also for irrigating gardens about Mel- 



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TiN YEAN EESECTOIE. 95 

bourne. This reservoir is eatimated to contain abont 
6,500,000,000 (six thonsand five hundred millions) 
gallons; — being a snpply caJcolated to laat three 
yeara at the rate of 30 gallons per day to each per- 
son of a population of 200,000 persons,* 

The gigantic embankment, which bems in and 
keeps back this immense body of water, is 8159 
feet in length, 170 feet wide at the bottom, 20 feet 
wide at the top, and 30 feet in height. The elope 
towards the water ia three to one and is paved with 
stone ; tbe outer, or land slope is two to one, and is 
merely tnrfed with sods. In the centre of tiie em- 
bankment is a wall of "puddle " 10 feet in thickness 
at the top and 30 feet at the bottom — ^where it is 
snnk seyeral feet below the natural level of the 
ground. The total cost of the works was £664,4&2 
—or in round numbers a little less than two-thirds 
of B million sterling. 

I walked along the top of the embankment. It is 
so wide that a carriage and pair might easily be 
driven over its entire length. The outer slope was 
covered with long wiry grass. As I ascended it, 
my guide told me to look out for sm^es ; I did so, 
but fonnd none. Snakes are often seen near water 
holes, but they like to bask about in the sun. The 
bite of some of them is very deadly. From what I 
* Falifax'i Aoslrslii. 



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BBW tnyeelf and from all I heard, the risk of being 
bitten by snakes is fortunately much less than has 
been generally supposed. Nor, indeed, were the 
musquitoes — those letes noires of travellers in some 
parts of the tropics — so troublesome as I had ex- 
pected. The air and the ground are too dry for 
them in most parts of Victoria; but when you go 
near water or Bw<vmpy ground, then look out ! Bat 
why give the caution f — for before yon had time to 
" look ont" they would get on to yon and torment yon 
— especially if you were a new comer, for it is eaid 
they prefer fresh arrivals to old hands— foreign to 
domestic produce. 

We left the pleraant waters of Tan Yean, situated 
in the parish of Yan Yean, highly satisfied with onr 
visit to them, and vrith having seen what a priceless 
treasure Melbourne possesses in her waterworks. 

Melbourne, among other matters, is well provided 
with watering places. She has St. Kilda, with its 
fine esplanade, within 10 minutes railway ride, and 
Brighton-on-the-Beach,- on the same coast, wiUiin 
85 minntes by rail, and possessing a very fine hall and 
bathing estabhshment. The fntnre Brighton of Vic- 
toria will, I fancy, be QoeensoliS', though not at present 
connected by railway with Melbourne. By sea {only 
across the harbour) it is but S2 miles distant, and is 
eitnated at and forms part of the "Heads" at tha 



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IKDIFFEHBNCK TO COLOKIEa. 97 

entrance of Port Phillip. Being more southerly, 
and almost Burrounded by water, it is much cooler 
than the sea beach near Melboame. Here on the high 
grounds are the Lighthouse and the apparatus for 
signalling ships as they arrive and depart. On 
the one side is the view of Port Phillip Waters, on 
the other the sea, forming Bass' Straits, can be aeen. 
Excursions can also be made inland with ease and 
pleasure. Those who choose the beach for a walk 
cau find infinite amusement in gathering sea-weed, 
which for its brilliancy aud the variety of its tints 
is already celebrated. There are moreover several 
good hotels, and symptoms are visible that a build- 
ing mania will set in ere long in this quarter. I 
have myself visited all the three places I have named, 
and my opinion is that Queenscliff will eventually 
become as fine a watering place as could be desired, 
aud that for this purpose it will take the lead in 
Victoria. 

I think I have now said all that I intended to say 
about Melbourne Mid its suburbs; but I trust I 
have advanced enough to prove to the large class of 
Englishmen, who know but Uttle and perhaps care 
still less about the Australian colonies, or about 
colonies in general, that Melbourne with its suburbs 
fs one of the marvels of modern progress ; — founded 
and built up, as it has been, by their own country- 



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meo mthin & single generation. If I liare thus far 
sncceededj by the proofa I hare adduced, in pointing 
ont and establishing the twit, as beyond question, to 
a portion of the British public, I may fairly hope, that 
for the time to come, they will evince more interest 
in, and exhibit more consideration towards the Aus- 
tralian colonies than has heretofore been shown 
them, whether by British statesmen or by the leaders 
of public opinion— in what is still called the Mother 
Country, 



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CHAPTER Vin. 

A START TOE THE IKTEEIOK — THE RAILWAY STATION — 

GKELONG THE COUNTET TO I.AL LAL — BALLAEAT — 

GOLD IN THE EOADS, AND GOLD UNDEE THE 8TKBETS 
AND HOUSES — APPE4B4NCB OP BALLAEAT — BUBTAOE 
DlOaraOS — DEEP SIHKINO — THE OOLDBK EIVEE-BED 
UKDBEaEOUND — SBBASTOPOL — THE MINING 8DBDEB — 
ITS UHINVJTIITG APPEAEANCE. 

Havtnq explored the greatest city in Australia, I am 
now going to see the country wliich has made it so. 
But before I start, some of my readers will probatly 
ask me the pertinent question, " How do you propose 
to travel — On foot, by bullock-dray, on horse- 
back, by coach, car, or cab ?" By none of these ap- 
proved, but antiquated modes of conveyance, good 
reader. On this occasion my journey will be per- 
formed in the most modem and orthodox fashion, — 
speed in travelling — as in making fortunes — being 
the order of the day. By the time I have answered 
these questions, I find myself at the Spencer Street 
Railway Station by help of the inevitable and irre- 
pressible "car" — the two wheels of which were 
"backed" against the kerb stone, or something 



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100 ncTOBU. 

which answered tliat purpose, in front of the station, 
and from my position on the back seat, I was as 
good as "flhot" out on to the pavement, "Just in 
time," exclaimed my Irish friend the driver,* " tould 
ye I would do it, aur," and then with a grin he 
added : " A little extra fare, aur," which I willingly 
gave Mm ; for it was no fault of hia if the jolting 
and lumbering vehicle which he drove, and which is 
in use all over Melbourne, had nearly " pitchforked 
me — all of a heap " into the street. 

Here I was then at an Antipodean Itailway Station 
at 6 o'clock in the morning. A real railway station— 
with areal platform — real line of rails — real engine and 
i-eal carriages all before me. There were first, second, 
and, I believe, third class carriages in the train, with 
every variety of accommodation, from plain boarded 
Beits, to spring cushions and padded backs. And 
then, too, there were real ticket clerks to take your 
money and to give you, in return, a real pasteboard 
pass-ticket of the proper colour, — of the same length, 
same width and same thickness, as if you were at 
the Faddington Station in London. Moreover, there 
was a real live specimen of the well-known geuos, 
" Newspaper-boy," lustily shouting out, " Argus — • 
Argus," " Herald - — Harald," &.c. Furthermore, 

• On most occarions I hired the eomo cnr. The drirer thnB be- 
csnie kr.owD to me, and iru aliravs liiil and obliging. 



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AHTIPOUEAH EA.ILWAT &TATIOK. 101 

there was a real stall for tlie sale of fruit and cfikes, 
and a reaJ porter who rang a noisy bell and told me 
to "be quick, tlie train's a goin' to start." Orer 
and above this, there were real pasaengere in real 
desperation to get into the carriages. Then once 
more the burly (and surly) porter rang out a final 
peal, while another banged the doors with a crash- 
ing thud. (Why do railway porters and guards in- 
variably do this at home and abroad 7 Is it to show 
their strength, or to frighten the passengers — or 
both?) And then the signal was given to the 
engineer, who stood ready with his hand on the 
crank. The train moved — first with a shriek — then 
a puff and a snort — nest a gruff noise which grew 
fainter,— and at length we glided ont of the station 
as smoothly and regulwly as if we had been leaving 
one of the great stations of London or Paris. 

I had taken a ticket direct for the " Golden Town^* 
of Ballarat, distant from Melbourne 96J miles by 
rail. The fares for this distance were, first class 3Qs, 
second class 22s, return tickets being 453 and SSs 
respectively. Once a day, in the afternoon, a third 
class train ran from Melbourne to Ballarat- The 
fare, by this train, was l\d per mile. 

We passed Footscray, Williamstown Junction, 
Werribee, and Duck Fonda Stations, and arrived at 
Gleelong, 45 miles from Melbourne, at 7.29 a.u. — 



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102 nCTOBu. 

having started at 6 in the morning. Throughout 
this distance of 45 miles the railway may be said to 
run alongside the waters of Port Phillip, at distances 
varying from three to nine miles. The land through 
which the line passes is mostly fiat, and has a bleak 
appearance. This arid and hungry-loohing soil 
would gladly absorb the noxious sewage of Mel- 
bourne, and the railway might perhaps be made the 
base line from which to distribute it. The land was 
generally fenced in with post and rail, or else with 
stone wall fences, divided into large blocks for graz- 
ing purposes. Here and there we came across farm 
houses and duck-ponds. The soil in some places 
had a reddish hue, — some of it good, most of it im- 
proreahle by draining and manuring ; and as already 
observed the sewage of Melbourne would irrigate 
and fertilize it at the same time. When the virgin 
lands in the interior get taken up, these wastes will 
become more available and moro valuable; — the 
more so as they are situated between two Wge 
towns. 

Qeelong stands on uneven ground, overlooking 
the waters of its harbour. It has the appearance of 
a quiet and pleasant seaport town in England. It was 
at one time a formidable rival to Melbourne, bat it has 
jiow saccnmbed to fate, and become the second sea- 
port in Victoria — instead of taking the lead. It has 



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some fine atone buildinga, and tree-planting haa 
greatly improved its appearance. The population 
of Creelong, exclusive of its suburbs, was 16,000 in 
1867. One of its suburbs, Newton and Chilwell, 
contains 4000 inbabitants — the other 1400. Our 
train stopped for only nine minutes at Oeelong. In 
travelling from Melbourne to Qeelong, I had re- 
marked a high range of hills to the north on our 
right, and now that we were about leaving Geelong 
our train headed in the direction of these hills. In fact 
we had ceased to run by the sea coast line, and had 
now turned and were running nearly at right angles 
to it — right into the interior towards Ballarat. 

Shortly after leaving Gleelong, the land on both 
sides of the line improved in quality and appear- 
ance. Farms became more numerous, and cultiva- 
tion more general, though the country presented a 
burnt-np aspect. The weather threatened rain, and 
the air felt damp, and one could not see a long dis- 
tance because of a mist that prevailed. How cheer- 
ful my fellow-passengers were at the prospect of 
rain 1 "We shall have rain soon" — "What a great 
deal of good it will do" — "The country is parched 
in the inland district " — " Stock ia perishing there " 
— " It's many years since we have had such a dry 
summer as this," were some of the casual observa- 
tiona exchanged by those aboat me, aa our train 



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104 TICIOBU. 

approatdied a wooded country and a primitive-look- 
ing place with a station called Lai Lai, 83^ miles 
from Melboome and 12| from Ballarat. 

About Lai Lai and on towards Bdlarat the country 
wore a foreet-like and wild aspect. Here and tbere 
timong the woods there were patches that had been 
cleared, in token of which might be seen the stumps 
of trees, some blackened, some fresh looking, stand- 
ing in the groond. Scattered about were some 
woodmen's hats of rade construction, with piles of 
newly riven posts and rails for fencing. The locality 
through which we were passing appeared to be 
sacred to the craft of sawyers and wood-splitters. 

By 9.38 A.u. I had reached the substantial and 
handsome looking station of Ballarat— the chief 
''Gold City" of Australia. It is a large and popu- 
lous inland town built upon veritable 'deposits of 
gold,'— founded and erected by means of the gold 
discovered underneath and around it. While I was 
there, some " early birds," in the shape of China- 
men, were caught tn flagrante delicto one fine 
morning, stealing the "dost" and metal from the 
road leading out of the town, for the purpose of wash- 
ing it and abstwicting the gold which they had found 
out it contained. They were accordingly taken up 
by the authorities, but after a severe admonition 
they were dismissed. After this who will venture 



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GOLDEN TALES. 105 

to assert tbat tlie streets and roads of Ballarat are 
not macadamised — if they are not actnally " paved " — 
with gold ? Here is an illustration of the adage 
that "truth is stranger than fiction." I travelled 
with several respectable "diggers" who knew Bal- 
larat in it6 early days, and who are well known 
" men on 'Change " at the present day. The mar- 
vellous tales they related about the richness of some 
of the alluvial diggings around and near Ballarat — 
particularly of some, so famous for the richnesB of 
their yield, that they were called. " the Jewellers' 
shops," will I trust some day "see the light," and 
be handed down among the annals of these truly 
Elysiaa (Gold) Fields. They told me that in many 
instances the streets and houses had been under- 
mined — ^like so many catacombs— in the eager pursuit 
of gold; and that in one street in particular, which 
they named, several wooden houses had sunk, and 
had to be raised again — ^the foundations having 
given way — owing to the subterranean excavations. 
Not only this, but the street itself had actually sunk 
four or five feet, and had to be raised and re- 
made. The proprietor of a brick honse, whom they 
knew and whose name they mentioned, had agreed 
with some diggers to allow them to " prospect " and 
dig for gold on his ground and about his house. 
They set to work accordingly, and dug " with a 



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106 VICTOBU. 

wiD/' — the proprietor all the while watching them 
narrowly for fear they Bhonld get too near the foun- 
dation of his brick mansion. But the cunning 
diggers proved more than a match for him. A^ 
they approached the forbidden gronnd on which the 
house stood, they found the soil very rich. Great 
was the temptation before them ; great too the re- 
sponsibility of breaking their agreement. But "Faint 
heart never won Fair Lady :" silentlyj secretly and 
cleverly the house was undermined, and "robbed" 
of its precious treasure — "unbeknown" to the pro- 
prietor, — who however discovered his loss and the 
" artful dodges " of the wily diggers — only when it 
was troo late. The " steed was stolen out of the 
stable :" the foundations began to give way, and the 
building had to be taken down — to save it irom 
falling. It appears the proprietor subsequently 
commenced an action at law against the aggressors, 
for what I suppose the lawyers call "breach of 
covenant," or "trespass and entry upon the pre- 
mises ;" but whether an action in that caae would 
lie, or did lie, or whether the defend^its ever 
" showed up " to " put in an appearance " to the pleas 
of the; irate plaintiff, my informants were unable (or 
perhaps unwilling) to aver. 

Ballarat stands, as a whole, upon an irregular and 
uneven site — a rough plain surrounded by hills. It 



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BAtlASAT. 107 

consistB of two townships called East and West 
Ballarat, divided by a smidl stream called the 
TaiTOwee Creek. The portion of the town called 
East Ballarat is the lowest as to situation, and the 
oldest. It stands on a flat piece of land, — while 
West Ballarat stands on higher ground, and is partly 
built on the slope of a hill. The two townships 
which together constitnte Ballarat, contained in 1 867 
a popidation of 35,000, which with its suburb 
" Sebastopol " makes up a total of 40,000. Ballarat 
stands 1433 feet above the level of the sea, and has 
therefore a cooler and more agreeable climate than 
Melbourne— whose central street, Elizabeth Street, 
is but 22 feet above the sea level. 

The appearance of the suburbs and of the country 
immediately about Ballarat is extremely unprepos- 
sessing, whether to the eye of the fanner or to the 
lover of the pictnresqne. The thoughts of the one 
run upon luxurious crops— of the other upon the 
beauties of nature and art. Not so, however, with 
the hardy, ventnrons and speculative gold miner who 
looks for riches underground. All round Ballarat 
the digger has left his mark — his " tracks " in the 
shape of confused and irregular moimds of dirty 
white earth, — " rudis indigestaque moles " — and 
beside them the gaping holes from which the earth 
was taken. These meet the eye in every direction. 



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108 VJCTOBIA. 

BalUrat is environed with hillsj gullies and flats, 
wbich liave already yielded np their gold in abund- 
ance. On the eastern side of the town is a remark- 
ahle hill called the Black Hill. It is a desolate and 
dreary looking eminence, cut up into innumerable fan- 
tastic shapes and forma — whose white, rather than 
"blaok,"J£^gedpointa,heapa of loose earth and yawn- 
ing pits bear witness to the gradual demolition and 
removal piece-by-piece of the greater portion of a 
great solid hiU to be " washed down " for the gold 
it contained. Everywhere about here there are 
traces of the digger. Here and there the " shallow 
sinker "-~-the surface di^er— has dug and dug till 
he has disturbed, broken up and brought to the 
surface almost every square yard of gold-bearing 
ground, extending over an immense local area. This 
earth he has washed in water. By this process the 
soil, sand, gravel or stones, as the ease may be, are 
separated from the gold, which by the commotion 
or " shaking up " of the water and earth together 
in a tin dish or " cradle," has by its greater weight 
subsided to the bottom of the vessel, while the earth 
held in suspense by the water is carried off- 
No sooner did the shallow sinking diminish in 
extent, than the enterprising Ballarat miner turned 
bis thoughts to deep sinking. Did the "wash dirt" 
extend onder the high lands of the district ? Was 



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A GOLD BITXB BSD. 109 

it to be found hundreds of feet below the surface in 
some places where there was a mass of hard blue rock 
overlying it and to penetrate through t The shallow 
sinking^ were supposed to have been found in the 
ancient hed of a river, the course of which appeared 
to hare been arrested by high lands. Here was a 
problem to bo solved, and the miner pondered it 
well : — Did the course of this ancient river actually lie 
hidden under these hills, which had by soma convul- 
sion of nature, been thrown down ages ago — filled np 
its bed and changed the face of the country ? Who 
could satisfactorily solve this question ? The Geolo- 
gist miglit well remain silent, and the practical man 
feel confounded ; and after all nothing but actual ex- 
periment could-settle the point. Shrewd miners — 
daring practical men— set to work without ostenta- 
tiou. They sank shafts hundreds of feet in depth, and 
eventually cleared up the mystery by coming upon, 
what is believed by many to have been, the former 
bed of a river — of " pre-historic times ^'—permeated 
with gold. Here was a subterranean — What shall I 
call it ? a gold-laden river-bed, with branches, and 
giving indications that the stream which had once 
filled this channel, pursued its coarse to the sea — 
and that its bed will now be found following in the 
same track to the same destination. 

There is no room for hyperbole or exaggeration 



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110 TICTOKU. 

in describing iheae matters, althoDgh tte im^ina- 
tion does not at first realise fully the mysterious 
workings of Nature, in first forming and then hiding 
away this golden river bed— or the hibours of Art — 
the unflinching audacity of man, in letting the light 
of day shine in once more upon the dark recesses — 
the fabled caves — that lie " stowed away full many 
a fathom deep" in the bowels of earth. But to 
return to liM-d practical matters of fact : — The sub- 
terranean river-bed which we are speaking of, and 
which is " supposed " to extend to the sea, winding 
in its course, varies from 800 to 500 feet in width, 
and from 5 to 7 feet in depth or thickness. The 
bed of this old river or "deep lead," technically 
called by miners "drift" or "wash-dirt," or "wash- 
ing stuff" — 18 generally composed of clay, gravel, 
quartz, stones, and sand richly interspersed with 
gold, varying in size from small particles to lumps 
of the precious metal. This presumed river-bed rests 
on what is termed the bed rock or reef, — in the holes, 
clefts and crevices of which, generally speaking, gold 
is found in greatest quantities. 

Overlying this river bed, and between it and the 
surface of the earth, are various strata — igneous 
and aqueous; — the igneous, mostly basalt (hard blue 
rock) ; the aqueous consisting of slate, marl, and 
clay ; the whole mass or belt varying from 300 to 



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esBAaiopoL. Ill 

500 feet in thickneas. Tkrougli this solid composite 
body or " crast," holes or shafts, square or rectan- 
gular in shape, have to be cut, the rock exoavated, 
and the entire aperture or perpendicular shaft lined 
throughout with wood, down to the bottom, till the 
river bed, or " gutter," ifl reached. Up these shafts 
the "wash-dirt" is drawn to undergo the necessary- 
process for extracting the gold from it. 

I visited the principal gold mining Bahurb of Bal- 
larat, called Sebastopol. This place is a wonderful 
sight, industrially considered ; but I cannot say it 
is either picturesque or pleasant to look at- The 
ground about here is utterly deranged and distorted 
in appearance, — spotted, or, I might say, " blotched" 
with scurvy -looking cottages, or shabby -looking 
shanties — mean and dingy looking at the same time; 
an evident proof that some of the miners bestow as 
little thought upon domestic comfort as they do 
upon personal appearance and cleanliness; that, in 
short, where their treasures are, there, too, are their 
hearts. The noise of the steam engines, and the 
tall, smoking steam chimneys gave diversity and 
animation to a scene in which artificial white mounds 
and hills of rock and clay, fields of mud and pools of 
dirty water were the principal and most conspicnons 
features. Still the sight is a singular — a wonderful one 
to ga^ upon. One looks for miles ahead; and from 



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112 TICTORIA. 

the works which generally stand over the bed of the 
" gutter," or viver, can be traced the windings and 
the direction of the underground river bed. These 
" works," which sometimes combine quarfcz-crashing 
operations with deep-sinking for "wash-dirt," con- 
sist of an agglomeration of low buildings and of 
great piles of scaffold-like building, tall chimneys, 
and weather-boarded towers standing out like 
beacons, to indicate where gold ia being got, and how 
far, and in what direction, the golden river bed be- 
neath extends. The tall wooden erections constitu- 
ting these "works" presented, to my mind, a strong 
resemblance to the operative machinery connected 
with coal mines in England. There were tall timber 
structures and the same naked and desolate appear- 
ance, only the debris of the gold pits at Sebaatopol, 
were white, and the refuse of the coal pits in 
England is black. 



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fiALLABAT UTNTHQ COHPANIBS — PSINCE OF WALES OOLD 
UINIKa COUFAMY, LIUITSD ; MATUBE OF TEEIB tJNDEB- 
QEOUMD W0BK8 — 8ECAFT8 AKD TOKNELS— <rHB W0RK3 
ABOVBGBOUND — PUDDUKQ OPKaATlONS — WASHINQ AKD 
OOLD COLLKCTINQ— EESTILTS — DBaCBIFTION OF THE 
QUABTC-CBDSHINO PROCESS — OOLD BUYINQ : DECBP- 
HON— A 8CENH AT THB SUHEBS' EXCHANQB — EAST 
, BALLABAT. 

In alluvial " surface diggings," one, two, or tln-ea 
men can aet up business for themselTes, with only a 
very small amount of capital, or even of skill ; but in 
"deep-sinking" for "waaMng stuff," or in mining 
for qoartz, it is necessary tkat tbere should be a 
combiaatioii of intelligence, patience, labour, skill, 
and capital — each in a high degree. In BaUarat, 
accordingly, steady, intelligent, and hard-working 
men, with only a small capital at their command, 
found it expedient to form themselves into compa- 
nies, and some of their number continued to labovir as 
workmen in their own concerns. Indeed, Ballarat 
owes its high and prosperous position to the individufJ 
and joint exertions of such men as these, rather than 



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114 TICTOBIA.. 

to tlie asaistance and support derired from tlie all- 
powerful modem capitaliBt. Tlie mon gave their 
labonr, and the gronnd yielded the capital — gold. 
The result has been the estahliahmeut of many 
wealthy and prosperons mining companies in Bal- 
larat. It mnstj at the same time, be admitted that 
gambling and specnlation in mines, reefs and mining 
shares in this district was, and is still, carried on to 
«n onhealthy and injnrions degree. Nerertheless 
gold-mining has been redaced, or rather matured, 
to a system ; and it is now condncted st Ballarst, 
and other gold fields in Anstralia upon sound, solid, 
and SQCcessful principles. The prosperons compa- 
nies and the safe nuning rnrestments are far in ex- 
cess, numerically considered, of the bnbble schemes 
got np from time to time by adventnrers and " birds 
of passage," who have nothing to lose. 

Wishing to see some of the operations and machi- 
nery, in detail, of one of these enterprising compa- 
nies, I was recommended to go orer the Works of 
the Prince of Wales Mining Company, at Sebaa- 
topol. So I hired the inevitabls " car " to take me 
there. I found two distinct and separate "Works," 
a short distance apart from each other, bnt connected 
by galleries nndergronad. One of these establish- 
ments was devoted to qnartz-crashing ; %e other to 
washing the "staff" obtained from the "gutter," 



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GOLD WOBKS UNDEBOBODlfD. 115 

or Babterraneon river-bed. Tlie quartz for cmsliing 
porposea waa obtained from a gold-bearing quartz 
vein, 20 feet wide, wbioh had been diecorered on the 
Company's claim in the bed rock, at aboat 200 feet 
below the surface of the ground : and this vein ex- 
tended downwards, ia an oblique direction to an 
unknown depth. 

I gathered &om some sectional working drawingsof 
the undergronnd works that the main shaft, about 8 
feet square, waa sunk, chiefly through hard blue rock, 
into the grottnd to a depth of 884 feet, and waa 
slabbed, or boxed in, from top to bottom. It would 
appear that thia Company had had a disappointment 
at the outset ; for their " first main prospect drive " 
was driven horizontally, at a depth of about 324 feet 
from the Buriace, for a distance of 610 feet on the bed 
rock, without finding the "gutter." However, after 
a drive of 450 feet in length, through an elevation 
of the reef, at nearly the same level, bat in a con- 
trary direction, they "broke into the gutter." This 
drive was called the " upper main level." A " drive " 
is a small tunnel, iu this case boxed in with wood, 
Uie roof being supported by slabs and posts. It 
was about seven feet high, wide enough for narrow 
waggons to travel in, and waa used in the first place 
for "prospecting" to find the deposits in which was 
the precious metal ; and secondly, as a passage or 



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116 TICTOEli. 

gallery througli wUch the waBhing staff and qnartz 
were oonreyed to the main shafl in amall waggons. 
This drive, cut or trarersed the qoarta rein before 
reaching the "gutter." 

Forty-five feet below the " upper main level drive" 
waa another drive to further attack the quartz vein, 
and also to reach another part of, the " gutter." 
This drive communicated with the bottom of the main 
shaft, and at 300 feet distance from it, cut the main 
quartz vein, and so continued on the same level till 
it reached a distance of 540 feet, when, by means of 
an upward inclined shaft, called, I believe, "a monkey 
shaft," rising 40 feet in height, it was connected 
with a third drive, which led to, and ended in the 
" gutter," at a distance of 600 feet &om Uie bottom 
of the main shaft. In these damp, dreary, and often 
dark passages, hardy ouners work on from day to 
day, apparently as contented and as cheerful as if 
working in a quany above ground. 

I have entered somewhat into detail with respect 
to this nnderground mining to shew the large amount 
of skill and labour required for an enterprise of this 
kind ; the chances of a working man, who elects to 
go upon " his own hook," or otherwise ; and the lact 
that miners must be an intelligent body of men to 
.have accomplished the results which I have here 
glanced at. Being neither a miner nor a geologist 



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GOLD WOEKS ABOVl-OBOUHD. 117 

myBelf, I feel at eome disadvantage in describing 
these works. For my pnrposej however, it 18 not 
necessary to treat the snbject from the point of view 
of the technical *• expert " or man of science ; my 
object is simply to give the reader a general idea of 
the natare, extent, and importance of the vBrions 
operations carried on in the process of gold-finding. 
Above-gronnd, the Works of the company, before 
mentioned, have a thorongb business-like appear- 
ance. Some of the bnildings are constructed of 
stone. The first works I inspected were those used 
for rising the " wash dirt," and for puddling and 
sluicing operations. Rising high above the rest of 
the buildings was the lofty brick chimney, to carry 
off the smoke from the flues connected with the fires 
of the lai^e boilers of the engine. These fires were 
fed and wholly snatained by wood instead of coal. 
Kear this chimney, and almost of the same height, 
was a tall tapering, weather-boarded square tower, 
not unlike a lighthouse. Within this erection do- 
Boended empty little waggons, in (I think) iron 
boxes oaUed " cages," down the main shaft to tho 
months of the drives below; and, when filled, as- 
cended rapidly, and with a startling noise high above 
the month of the shaft to a stage with a roof over it. 
On this stage the "wash dirt," a wet mass of dark- 
blue stones and earth (in which I could perceive no 



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1 18 TICTOSU. 

tracea of gold] was emptied into a paddling machiiiey 
and slniced with water. The iron cages were drawn 
up hy steam power, and by means of a flat wire band. 
The puddling machines and sluice house occupied 
a large building two stories in height, and con- 
structed of wood. The puddling machine was a 
large circular Teasel, in fact a great iron tub, about 
12 feet in diameter by 2 feet 6 inches deep. In the 
centre of it was a vertical iron spindle, to whicb, at 
tiie height of the tub, were attached two iron arms 
revolving round and round, and dragging with them 
two circular and small iron harrows through -the 
wash-dirt and water, — till the gold with the finer 
waah-dirt had sunk to the bottom of the puddling 
machine. Then two labourers, called puddlers (who 
were paid 7g 6d per day of eight hoars work), 
stopped the revolving apparatus, and with boots on 
up to their knees, stepped into the muddy mass 
aud commenced picking out all the big stones with 
a large fork. The remainder of the puddled stuff 
looked somewhat like newly made mortar, and was 
dropped, through a hole in the bottom of the pud- 
dling machiue, on to another stage below, where it 
lay in a great heap . From this heap it waa shovelled 
into the wide bopper-like end of an inclined trough, 
measuring about a foot in width and nine incliea in 
depth. Water was then pumped in at the upper 



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wASHnro-oirr gold. 119 

eod of the troiigIi,->«t the same time that the wash- 
dirt waa stirred abont with a foi^c-like implement ; 
and as the water ran down the trough in a stream 
it washed the " dirt" off the gold (which being the 
heavier body in the washing stuff, sank to the 
bottom of the trough) and carried away the lighter 
particles of earth and gravel. When the heap was 
thus washed and dispersed, they looked for the 
gold that was left behind — as a deposit. The greater 
portion of ibis gold was found at the upper, or hopper 
end,where the washing stoffwas first pat in. The gold 
which I then saw taken oat varied in bulk fW)m the 
size of a grain of sand to the dimensions of a bean. 
Every precaution is taken to save as many of 
the miuQts pulicles of gold as possible. Just 
before the mortar-like wash-dirt, before deaoribed, 
is taken from the puddling machine, the water with 
which it has been slniced, and which then covers it> 
and has become a thick muddy fluid, holding in 
auspension the finest particles of the gold, is allowed 
to run off, and is oondncted to a sluicing machine 
(similar to a puddling machine] ; here it is diluted 
with water, stirred about, imd after the water has been 
drained off, the residuum, by means of an admixtore 
of mercury, has the gold extracted from it — an 
attraction for gold being one of the properties of 
mercury. When the mercury has thus sucked op. 



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120 vicToaiA. 

OF rather become amalgamated with the gold, it is 
collected ani placed in a chamois leather ha^. This 
bag of mercnryjin a certain state of combination with 
the goldj is next subjected to pressure on its sides, 
by the hands, when a considerable portion of the 
quicksilver is forced throngh the pores of the bag, 
leaving what is called the "amalgam" to be further 
dealt with, by placing it in a retort and subjecting 
it to a high degree of heat, — when the whole of the 
mercury is eliminated and runs off through a pipe 
in the side of the vessel, leaving the gold in a plate- 
like shape at the bottom of the retort. 

The gold I have spoken of as sinking to the 
bottom of the inclined trough went tiirough a pro- 
cess pecoliar to itself. It waa coDected and placed 
in a perforated tin basin. Being sifted about, the 
basin retained the small stones and fine gravel, while 
the gold and sand dropped through the holes at the 
bottom, — falling into another tin basin underneath, 
in which water was placed. This second basin being 
shaken in a peculiar way, allowed most of the still 
i-emaining sand and dirt to escape over its sides- 
leaving the residue nearly all pure gold. This gold 
was then t«^en to the oESce and put into a vessel 
resembling a frying-pan, which was placed over the 
fire till its contents became dry, when they were 
{turned into a copper basin with a projecting month. 



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OOLD HAHIFUL&TIOKB. 121 

Once more the golden residae was sliaken, and (to 
clear it still further of all foreign matter) was well 
blown by a pair of Tigorons hnman bellows^ hj the 
person entmsted with this important fonctionj until 
all the particles of fine sand had been got rid of j 
when nothing remained with the gold but bits of 
quartz. These were picked out with the fingers, 
and when foond to contain any gold they were 
pounded in a mortar and the gold separated. The 
total weight of the precions metal thns obtained 
was fifty onnces, worth nearly £200 — the result of 
one day's operations in one portion only of the 
Company's Works. 

In another department of these Works they were 
mining a qoartz reef, which I have spoken of as 
measuring twenl^ feet in width. The quartz was 
quarried below and brought up the shaft in the 
same way already described respecting the " wash' 
ing stuff." It is then taken to the quartz-crushing 
machine, and placed in. the rear of the battery of 
"stampers" — where (often on higher ground) it is 
laid in heaps, composed generally of pieces about 
the size of a man's fist ; if much larger, they are 
broken smaller by the man who attends to supply 
the " stampers" with their hard food : to a great 
extent these " stampers" are self-feeding. 

But what is a " Battery of stampers f" my readers 



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122 YICTOBU. 

may fairly mqnire. It is a powerftil and pouderona 
qnartz^cmshiiig machine kept in motion by eteam- 
power, and so effective in its action as quickly to 
redace the hardest of stone to powder and fine 
particles. In the Works which I have endeavonred 
partially to describe they had a Battery consisting 
of sixteen square-headed stamps, in four bays, with 
four stampers to each. This battery has crashed 
140 tons of quartz per week — the quartz yielding 
about 15 dwts. of gold to the ton. In looking at 
the quartz in bulk I coold see no gold in it; but it 
was impregnated with gold nevertheless. One 
piece which was shewn to me in the ofBce waa richly 
streaked with the precious metal. 

This Company's battery was placed in a long shed 
at the upper op rear side of which were placed pon- 
derous stampers, lifted up and let down alternately 
by ingenious contrivances, kept in motion by 
steam. The stamps went up with a clinking noise, 
and came down with a crunching thud. They ap- 
peared to me somewhat like the piston-rods of a 
steam engine, with club ends to them : in reality 
they are so many pestles and mortars worked by 
machinery and on a gigantic scale. They are pound- 
ing machines doing their "crushing" work most 
effectually. The lower or club ends (or heads) of the 
stamps, work in a trough-like iron box. They are 



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CBUSHIHO QUAETZ FOB OOLD. 123 

plentifnll; sappUed mfh water. The broken qnartz 
at the back of the stamps is so disposed as to 
fell, of itself, and find its way under the stamps 
where it is speedily reduced to atoms — to powder. 
I'hese iron boxes are provided in front with a move- 
able door or front (I have seen some of them locked 
np when the battery was at work) made of perfo- 
rated sheet iron, with the perforations so minnte, 
as Bcarcely to allow a pin's head to pass through 
them : some of these perforations in the front are 
BO fine and dose tojj^ther as to have 120 holes to 
the square inch. Crush, crash, go the stamps in- 
cessantly when at work, — at the same time the 
heaviest gold sinks to the bottom of the boies, 
while the muddy and dirty water charged with pul- 
verized quartz and particles of fine gold, rushes 
through the perforated box fronts (technically called 
" gauzes") on to inclined wooden platforms, some- 
times osdllating, over which are spread woollen 
cloths called " blankets." Across this inclined plane 
grooves are cut in the wood to hold qnicksilrer and 
arrest the gold contained in the muddy waters, forced 
oat of the stamp boxes. At the lower end of the 
platform is a gutter, also containing quicksilver. 
This gutter receires the surplus waters from the 
inclinej and i^tains whatever gold has escaped the 
grooves and the blankets. ' 



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124 VICTOEU. 

According to official records for 1867 the power 
and weight reapectiTely of these " stamps '' vary at 
the different qmu-tz worts in the Ballarat district. 
The weight of the stamps, inoloding the Htamp-lieads, 
shanks and lifts range from 4 cwt. to 8 cwt. 2 qrs. 
The distance they rise and fall- in the process of 
crashing is from eeren to ten inches; and the 
quantity of quartz crashed by each stamp in 24 
hoors varies from one to fonr tons. Li the same 
space of time the quantity of water nsed by each 
stamp averages from 864 to 950 gallons. The number 
of holes in the " gaozes " are as few aa 40 — some- 
times as many as 200 to the square iach. After the 
thick mnddy water leaves the " gauzes " it leiaurely 
flows over the blankets (sometimes green baize] 
and over the grooves into the gutter, from which it 
is allowed to escape — deprived, or nearly so, of ita 
precious freight. The results are — that by reaflon 
of its gravity a portion of the gold remains attached 
to the blankets ; another portion has been abstracted 
and taken up by the quicksilver in the grooves ; 
while a third portion has been arrested and absorbed 
by the mercory in the gutter. At the Prince of 
Wales Works I pat my hand into the gutter and 
found it about half fidl of mercury. 

The " golden fruits " of these operations are dis- 
posed of as follows : — Tbe bits of quartz and quartz 



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COLUCiraQ TES GOiD, 125 

s&nd are taken out of tbe stamp-box and the gold 
readily separated from the droBB by the means I 
have described* The blankets are washed in hot 
water, and the gold-dnst, sand and dirt which they 
contain find their way into a barrel containing mer- 
cury ; the barrel is made to revolvej and the gold 
becomes attached to the mercmy. The gold and 
mercnry in the gatter, having formed an " tansigain," 
the latter, together with the amalgam from the 
barrel is " retorted," and the gold cake produced as 
before described. Such then is a somewhat detailed, 
if not a complete acooont of the complicated process 
ofgoldfindingand gold mioing; as &ras I was able 
to discover irom personal inspection of the elaborate 
machinery constmcted for that purpose — first at the 
Prince of Wales Works at Ballarat, and afterwards 
at tbe Hostler's Beef Works atBendigo. 

Ballarat gold is noted for its pnrity. It averages 
in fineness from 23 carats 2 grains to 23 carats 3 
grains, and is wortli as much as £4. la per omice. 
Inconsequence of this high standard value, it was 
much sought aher in the early days of the gold 
fields } — 80 much so, that a great deal of sharp 
practice and deception prevailed in the purchase 
and sale of it. The inferior quality gold of other 
districts was too often sold as Ballarat gold, and the 
buyer felt justified in passing it off again as Ballarat 



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126 TicToiaA. 

gold to tlie next pnroliaseT ; just as a person wlio 
Las taken a bad coin in change from Bomebodj 
thinks bhat somebody elae onghtj in retom, to take 
the Bpariona article off bis hands. There were, of 
conrse, not the same facilities for assaying gold then 
as there are now, and purchasers were bound at their 
own risk to adopt the necessary precautions, and to 
remember the old legal maxim " Oaveai Emptor." 

A well-known and eztensiTe gold buyer for the 
Banks related to me how this disreputable trade was 
conducted. " We used to carry on," he said, " a 
fine game at one time, in early Ballarat days, in 
buying inferior gold at Castlemaine and other 
places, and taking it to Ballarat and selliDg it to 
novices as Ballarat gold, at Ballarat prices, which 
were from S« to 4a per ounce higher than the 
prices current at some other gold-bearing districts. 
Sometimes we re-melted a bar of inferior gold, and 
stamped it with the mark of a district noted for the 
fineness and purity of its met&l. Tbonsands of 
pounds sterling were made in this way." "And 
did you consider this honest trading f" I inquired. 
" As honest as any other trade," he replied. " Be- 
sides," he continned, " I was employed by the Banks 
to do it, and sometimes I sold the inferior gold of 
one Bank, to another Bank as the best gold : one Bank 
relished doing another ; and if respectable Banks, 



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THICKS IM GOLD BITTING. 127 

oflen to protect themselves from loss, engaged in 
this trade, -wty shouEd not private persons do so 
likewise. The Banks would do it t^uu if they had 
the chance. You see one porchaser was sold andhe 
reconped himself hj selliu g another. If a man bnys 
what he is no jadge of, he is likely to be taken in, 
and perhaps he deserves it for dabbling in what he 
don't understand." Snch were the free and easy 
and mature opinions— matured by \orxg practice ap- 
parently—of my informant. Thme opinions, how- 
ever, it should be observed, applied to an unprece- 
dented state of afiairs that once existed in Victoria. 
But these axe now things of the past, which are 
never Hkely to occur again : as a rule the trade in 
gold is now conducted with as much regard to com- 
mercial probity, as any other kind of merchandise. 

Ballarat West is the principal part of the town 
for banks, merchants and hotels. Its main street — 
Start Street, is a noble central thoroughfare about 
200 feet in width, having a considerable portion of 
its centre and length occupied with a garden, planted 
with trees. It is in this street that the "Mining 
Exchange " is situated, and also the handsome stone- 
built banks, and other pubHo edi£ces and institu- 
tions. There is too a handsome and spacious theatre, 
and the houses are mostly brick or stone built. The 
Mining Exchange ia a stand point and centre of 



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attraction ; it is eometimes termed the " Corner :" 
why, I do not know, for the next house to it is the 
Unicom Hotel, which occnpiea the comer position. 
To accoont for this, however, I was tohi that tii© 
opposite comer to the Unicom Hotel — now the site 
of the London Chartered Bank, was at one time the - 
habitat of the mining offices and the real " Comer." 
From ten to twelve o'clock in the morning — at 
times — the street and the pavement in front of the 
Miners* Ezchacge present a crowded, bustling and 
animated appearance. One morning I saw a crowd 
collected at the Exchange, standing nnder its large 
verandah, stretdiing across the pavement and extend- 
ing into the street. This assemblage was made np of 
stock jobbers, shareholders, specnlators, lookers on 
and idlers. It was a motley gronp. The individnals 
composing, it bore but little resemblance to the 
" Men on 'Change " of a London or Liverpool Stock 
Exchange. Kot the least in fact. They appeared 
bo me to be s plain practical and orderly lot of people 
engulfed in some absorbing business or exciting 
pnrsuit. Some of them indeed were "seedy" look- 
ing parties — haggard of face and pallid of cheek ; 
others were smartly dressed enough and had an ex- 
pressionofnoncAoZonceandof tZa«^anconcem. Some 
few were excited, and many anxious and careworn. 
Little knots here and there were eageriy discussing 



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MINBBS OH "CHANOB." 129 

the prices of sliares and the prospects of North 
dunes Consols, Black Wood, GMibaldi, Queen 
Victoria and other Compauiesj long established and 
just commenciDg practical operations. Taking the 
assemblage as s whole it resembled, in outward ap- 
pearance, a crowd of respectably dressed working men 
waiting ontside a large London contractor's estab< 
Usliment on some day when a number of fresh hands 
were to be taken on. Only that the head gear of 
the Ballarat men was distinctive : the felt wide- 
awake was all hut nnirersal, and in shape, height, 
, form and colour, it displayed eveiy variety — from 
the low crowned " Jim Crow " to the wide-brimmed, 
sugar-loaf-peaked sombrero of the Spanish or Italian 
brigand-i— a species of picturesque "roofing" which 
bids fair to be adopted in London before long. 

Some of these "mea on 'Change" were worth 
their thousands. A few, no doubt, were desperately 
hard up, but all eager to make money by speculating, 
and not seldom by gambling in mining transactions 
-— nuder diBerent circumstances, but on like prin- 
dples to those that influence their brethren on the 
Stock Exchange of London. 

From the Exchai^ I walked down to Bridge 
Street, in East BaUarat. It commences where Stnrt 
Street ends, and in width and appearance presents b, 
striking contrast to it. Compared with Sturt Street 



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130 VICTOEIA. 

Bridge Street is qmtow — about a cbain wide — both 
sides of it closely packed with sbops for the sale of hard 
and sofl goods, of edibles and potables, and of divers 
miscellaQeoas wares and commodities, to a popnla- 
tion that looks fresh and healthy. Some of the 
payementa, in Bridge Street, were planked with wood. 
East Ballarat is sometimes designated as "the old 
town;" yet where it stands was a wild forest bat 
nineteen years ago. With West Ballarat it now 
forms one great inland city, the lai^est in Australia, 
which, from the vast treasures of gold yet to be 
brought to the sur&ce of ita auriferous lands — 
from the great agricultural capabilities of the coun- 
try which snrronnds it — from its thriving loct 1 
industries — and last, but not least, from its salubrity 
— ^is certain to go on improving and prospering, and 
attracting settlers for many years to come. 



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A COACH-RIDE ACROSS THE COUKTBT — MY FELLOW- TEA TEL- 
LERS — DIOQINGS IN THB RANflEa — CRESWICK — A VOL- 
CANIC FABMIHO COnUTEt CA8TLBMAIBB — HOSQUITOES 

— BCHIJCA: ITS PBCTJLIABTTIES AND POSITION — A STROLL 
INTO THB ADJACENT BUSH LAND3 — MEET WITH TWO 
NEW " chums" and an OLD HAND — A COTTAGE IN A 

WOOD THB OLD MAN'S TAtB— AUSTEALUN GEA88T 

PLAINS AND BD8H — ^AUSTRALIAN TIMBER, AND HEAT 
EZPBRIENCES. 

Bima bent on seeing as much of tlie interior of 
Victoria as possible, I took Cobb's coach for a fifty- 
mile ride in the country situated between Ballarat 
and Caatlemaine. The railway from Melbourne to 
Ballarat goes no farther than the latter town, but 
coaches run daily to connect Ballajrat with Castle- 
maine, which latter is on the draiid Trunk line of 
rail that extends from Melbourne ma Castlemaine 
and Sandhurst, to Echnca, on the banks of the river 
Murray. 

Our coach had four wheels to carry it, four horses 
to draw it, and a fat, rubicund "whip" to drive it. 
He was a joUy, and, withal an unassuming fellow, 
who understood his business. I rode inside with 



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132 VICTOBU. 

other passengers, fanners and differs — apparently 
all intelligent men. One of them, who sat next to 
me, was smoking hard. He saw I did not like 
smoking, and said, " Does the smoke annoy you ?" 
" Yes, a little," I replied. " Oh, then, I'll drop it," 
and saying so, he pnt away his pipe. Now, in a 
country like the interior of Australia, where so many 
people smoke, and become rougk and ready in their 
habits, I hardly expected this mark of civility wid 
consideration inside a Cobb's coach. I found this 
fellow-passenger had his mate with him. I entered 
into conversation with them, and discovered that 
they were miners going to "prospect" some lands 
they had heard of as gold bearing. They imparted 
to me a variety of useful information, founded on 
many years' experience in this part of the oountry. 

Shortly after leaving BaUarat we commenced cross- 
ing a range of wooded hills that divide BaUarat, in 
the county of Grant, from Oreswick, in the connty 
of Talbot, As we continued the ascent of the hillB 
by a good macadamised road, I noticed surface 
diggings in many places on both sides of it — in 
gnllies and on flats. To dig the ground the trees h^d 
been cut down, and young trees had actually sprung 
up again in their places, from the stumps and roots 
of the old ones. They were growing luxuriantly, 
frOm six to ten feet high, looked fresh and beautiful^ 



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A jAxitma DistsicT. 133 

as very young gum-trees always do, and were likely, 
if left undisturbed, to obHteratej by means of a new 
forest, the white heaps, the holes, and the nprooted 
gronnd where surface diggings have been carried on, 
to the great diBfignrement of the landscape. Trees, 
I imagine, would grow well at these diggings, for 
the gronnd has certainly had the advantage of being 
well trenched. 

Eleven miles firom Ballarat, we arrirod at the 
pretty village town of Creswick. It presented a 
new and smart appearance, thongh its population 
was only 8670. Prom here to Glengower (repre- 
sented by a sii^te pnblic-house) a distance of about 
IS miles, I travelled over a fine agricultural country. 
Here was a rich soil, easily cultivated, combined 
with a beautiful landscape. The district wore a vol- 
canic aspect, being dotted over with low, cone-like 
hills, and the soil was generally of a chocolate colour. 
In one place I counted ten of these cone-shaped 
hills, all in sight at once. They resembled so many- 
extinct volcanoes. There was a marked absence of 
trees and woods — &e country looked smooth and 
frnitfal. It is not unlike the volcanic area abont 
Auckland, New Zealand. The macadamised road 
over which we travelled vma fenced in on both 
sides with post and rail fences. The whole coun- 
try aroond was onder cultivation, end was enlivened 



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134 ncToBU. 

b; nnmeroiiB farm-houaes^ fidlda, gardens, and or- 
cliards. Several of the conical hills I hare spoken 
of were andei^oing a course of ploughing. The 
farm-honseB, often built of wood, were not so neat as 
I expected to find them ; neither were there (except 
in isolated cases) the quickset hedges and thriving 
plantations which give such charms to ta UngliBh 
landscape. But, then, we mnst take note of the 
difference in age of the two countries. This district 
was only survejed and laid out in 1854. It had 
scarcely been known twenty years, whereas the man- 
sions and the farm-houses, and the cottages of 
England, with their respective groves and avenues, 
their hedge-rows and plantations, their lanes and 
thorn fences, their fruit gardens and flower beds, 
are the result of centuries end centuries of cultiva- 
tion under the most favourable circumstances. As a 
matter of course, then, rural life in Australia still 
lacks that beauty and wealth of culture that have 
been lavished so abundantly npon the ancient and 
mellow homesteads of the Old Country. But the tree 
of civilization has been planted, and will bear &nit 
in due season. 

We stayed a short time at Glengower, and soon 
after we had left it, found that our road was no 
longer made or macadamised, and that we had now 
to cross the forest ranges between here and Oastle- 



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HCSQUITOES. 135 

maine as best we could. Our coa<^ went jolting 
along tln^^ugh the bush ; sometimea we had to vary 
Qur course, from the direct line, to avoid a soft hollow 
in one place^ a deep hole in another, a tree yonder, 
ajid the atump of a tree close by. But the ground 
was generaUy hard, and we arrived first at Joyce^s 
Creek, and next at Gastlemaine, at 6.80 p.m., having 
done the distance of about 52 miles in eight hours. 

Castlemaine is the centre of a digging district. 
It contains a population of 9000. It has some new 
and handsome public buitdingSj with a number of 
neat private dwellings, and looks like an oasis in a 
desert of optimied ground. Castlemaine is just 
half-way between Melbourne and Echuca, the dis- 
tance being 76 miJes, which I got over by train, in 
three hours and twenty minutes, and arrived at my 
destination, Echuca, at ludf-past ten o'clock. 

On getting into bed I quite espected to be worried 
by mosquitoes, for if they should come, there were 
no muslin curtains to keep them off. However, I 
slept soundly, and never saw or heard, and what was 
better, never /eli, the presence of any of these petty 
tormentors. In Melbourne there were mosquito 
curtains to the beds at the Fort Phillip Hotel, and 
there the lively little insects were rather troublesome, 
as well as numerous, owing, no doubt, to the proximity 
of the waters of the Tarra. In no other place, how- 



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ever, did I see precautions taken against those 
"ticklisli cuBtomeTE j" bnt^ in fact, as I have else- 
where observed, mosqnitoes abound chiefly in loca- 
lities that are at once warm and moiat, and there 
they are found in myri^da. I have seen the air 
black with them, buzzing and darting abont, as if 
bent, like so many vampires upon sucking the life 
blood out of one's veins. In Echaca and other 
places the air is too dry for them. The awamps and 
fitreama are moatly dried np at this season, and so 
there is no harbour left to ^ve them shelter. 

Next morning, on getting up and walking out 
into the open air, the sun had just risen with that 
peculiar splendour that belongs to the Australian 
Aurora. The aky waa clear, the air cool enough to 
be refreshing, yet of such a balmy warmth, as to 
make it deliciously pleasant and exhilarating to walk 
about. 

The inland Port of Echnca is eitnated at the bottom 
of a bight or deep bend which the Murray makes in 
the northern boundary of Victoria. It lies about 150 
nulea due north of Melbourne, with which it is con- 
nected by a direct line of railway, 156 miles in length. 
The River Murray is here, and for many miles to the 
east and west of Echnca, navigable, and forms the 
boundary line that separates Victoria from New South 
Wales, Strange to say, the waters of the Murray are 

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DTLAUD TBlFnC TACILITISB. 137 

all within the limits of the colony of New Soath 
Wales — the Tictorian boundary being simply the 
soathem bank of the river, instead of extending 
to the middle of the etream. From this circnm- 
Btance neither a bridge can be thrown acroas, nor a 
ferry established over the Mnrray without the pre- 
vioos sanction and assent of the New South Wales 
Government. This, however, baa not prevented the 
Victorian authorities from taking the fall advantage 
of Yiotoria's fervourable geographical position, by 
constmcting across the narrowest part of that colony 
a substantial and durable raQway fromj I may say, 
the sea at Melbourne to the waters of the river 
Murray, at Echuca, By this stroke of policy a rail- 
way is carried throngb fine agricultural districts, im- 
portant townships — ^in fact, right across the entire 
Colony from its southern limits to its northern boun- 
dary. This great artery of traffic and transit cuts 
Victoria into two almost equal halves; and not only 
commands the traffic to the right and to the lefl 
along its coarse, but also at its terminua at Echuca, 
on the banks of the Murray, it taps the trade of the 
southern territory of New South Wales, and drains 
it off to Melbourne. This gives to Echuca an im- 
portance which will increase with every year that 
passes away ; not only that, Echuca is also the centre 
of a pastoral and agricultural district of great extent. 



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138 TICTOBU, 

Tbe railway lias in reality its temduoa at a fine 
and commodious station at the outskirts of Eclmcaj 
but from here a branch line, of a mile or two, con- 
nects the terminus with a large and substantial 
wooden wharf erected on the bank oi the river 
Hurray, to load and unload the steamers aB they 
ascend and descend that riAr. 

At present (1869) Schuca is a straggling place 
with a population of about 1500 souls. It possesses 
6 good hotel and several minor ones, a few neat 
private dwellings aad shops coi^tmcted of red 
bricks. It has also a pretty circular water-tower 
&ced with tastefully arranged red and white bricks. 
It is two stories in height, and is surmounted by a 
large circular iron tank, into which the waters of 
the Murray are pumped and stored for the supply 
of the town. There is no stone saitable for build- 
ing or paving purposes about here. The soil is 
generally sandy alluvial deposit liable to bake in hot 
weather. Some of the streets, I observed, were 
paved with wood in this manner: — ^The natural snrfacD 
of the road was levelled and rounded transversely; 
across the rounded street were laid narrow gum 
boards one inch thick ; and upon these was laid a 
pavement formed by round blocks of wood placed 
close together — the interstices being filled with the 
sandy soil. Hot winds blow occasionally here. I 



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COnKTEY ABOUT ICHDCA. 139 

experienced one myself, 'wben the dost and heat 
were as nsnal very dis^reeable, but they did not 
last long. Here also I might mention there is a 
fine vineyard. 

Sarly one morning I set out to examine the 
Ticinity of Eohnca. It is all flat land, and forms 
part of a great plain throngh which nms a never- 
dry river — the Murray. Where I was, the country 
was sparsely covered with timber, and presented a 
tnonotonoQS appeartmce. Ab I walked along jnst 
outside Echuca, I came to a river called the Cam- 
pasp6. It looked like a monster ditch, 30 feet deep, 
100 feet wide at the top and 20 feet at the bottom. 
To my Borprise this "river" in some places con- 
tained no water, while in other parts here and there 
were detached pools of stagnant water. I descended 
one steep bank and walked across the bed of the 
"river" dry shod, and climbed np the opposite 
bank, whidi was also steep. Here I found myself 
is a wood— a clear grass plain being visible outside 
it. The trees in the wood stood wide apart — the 
spaces between them being clear of onderwood and 
open. The ground, the grass and the trees, seemed 
dried up. It must be borne in mind that it was 
now in the height of an unnsnally dry summer. 
Hardly a blade of grass was to be seen. The ground 
looked as if it were baked, and was cracked and 



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140 vicroEU. 

destitute of vegetation. The leaves of die trees had 
a scorched and withered appearance, and among the 
branchea might be seen flitting &bont numbers of 
black-and-white birds, yellow-breastedj and blue 
and green parrots, — uttering discordant cries as 
though lamenting the want of rain. Yes rain- 
rain — that Austrian bleBsing, would come in a 
week or perhaps a month hence; — ^when, after a 
few days, it would transfer as if by magic the whole 
Bcene, — changing the dull and dismal yellow all 
round, into a bright emerald green, — enough at 
once to make the heart of man rejoice, and the 
beasts of the field exhibit signs of gladness. 

As I oontinned my walk in the bush, I came up 
with two labouring men fresh from the old country. 
They had small packs on their backs and were in 
good spiritB ; they were going further into the in- 
terior in search of work. They had had cheap 
lodging, for they had slept out all night under a 
tree. Further on I espied a conical shaped hut. It 
resembled a bee-hive. It had a hole in its side and 
a tree apparently growing out through its top. 
When I got close up to it, I found that it was a hut, 
or in native AufitraUau parlance— a mia-mia. It 
was constructed of the branches of trees, resting on 
their thick ends, spread out in the form of a circle 
on the gronnd, and meeting so as to form a round 



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TKK OLD man's HDT. 141 

top at the Bnmioit. The tnmk of the tree, under 
which it waa built, was at the rear of il, and there 
waa a hole close to the groiind, large enough for a 
man to creep through. As the braaches were close 
together and had their leaves on, they formed a 
shelter &om rain and a screen from the cold night 
wind. Curiosity prompted me to look in. The in- 
terior of this primitiTe mansion was abont aeren 
feet in diameter. It seemed rather snng — ^if not 
very oommodions — the floor being spread all orer 
with a syhan carpet of small branches covered with 
leaves. Close ontaide the mia-mia stood an aged 
labouring man, — stont, tall, and blear-eyed, bnsily 
engaged in driving ofiF the Sies from his blood-shot 
visual organs. I accosted him with the onstomary 
salutation — "(Jood morning," which he returned. 
" Have yoa been sleeping here f" I inquired, point- 
ing to the hnt. " Tea," he replied. " I fonnd this 
mia-mia empty, and Fve been sleeping in it. Ton 
see it keeps out the winds bat not the insects, of 
which there we lots at this eeeaon of the year." 
" Have you no employment," I asked. He replied 
that he hod not, and then continued, " I'm out of 
work J I'm in search of work ; I have no home ; I'm 
getting old; I have no money: I've had ft good 
deal of money in my time — but it's all gone." 
" How then do you get your food ?" I said, *' Why, 



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142 ncTOEiA. 

you Bee, I travel from station to station to get 
work. At moat of the etations they give me some- 
thing to est, and I sleep oat at night." This man 
was what would be called in England a "tramp" — 
or, in other words — a candidate for the "casnal 
ward " of the nearest Union. Here in Australia he 
wa8 one of that class who would continne sober and 
work hard at fencing, or other station work, for a 
'^epell" of Bix or twelve months, and then having 
made a little money— a few poands — strike work 
and spend his hard earned money in roystering 
about and getting dmnk — until all was gone. 
What finally becomes of these men, in the interior, 
it is difficult to say. A friend of mine, a New South 
Wales settler, told me that some of these tramps 
are a lazy set of fellows. Many of them work hard 
and drink hard all their Uvea; and as there are 
neither workhouses nor hospitals in the bush or in 
tlfe unsettled districts— when these men become old 
and infirm and are searching for work or food, the 
probability is that in some cases they walk on until 
they can proceed no fnrthei^-until at length they 
lie down in the nn&eqnented bush, to die under a 
gum-tree. 

From the Campasp^ Bush, I went on to the open 
plain on Mr. Q-laas's Hon. Mr. Olaes was one of the 
great Australian run-holders. He had a good run 



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ADSTKAUAK FOKESTfi. 143 

here, and a fine hoose and garden on tiie banks of 
the Murray, The great flat plains about here, where 
the plains alternate with belts and clumps of bush, 
present a very Btriking and agreeable aspect. And 
yet there is a certain sameness and monotony in this 
constant repetition of bush and plain, plain and bush 
throQghout Australia. Years &go I had read of the 
park-like appearance of these Australian plains, and 
how you could drive a carriage through the bush. Bat 
I must confess that those which I saw, bordering on 
both banks of the Murray, produced a certain feeling 
of disappointmentj so far, at least, as regards the 
appearance of the trees in the bush. Trees there 
were, it is true, wide apart, with but little under- 
wood or scrub, and the hollows that occurred here 
and there, and the unerenness of the ground in 
some placesj did not prevent the passage of horse- 
men and drays through the bush. But, then, the 
trees for the most part had a stunted, dwarfed, and 
weird appearance, crooked in the trunks, gnarled in 
the branches, and with such a eparseness of ffiliage, 
as to leave the limbs exposed in all their naked 
deformity. Nothing could be more unlike the um- 
brageous and stately trees peculiar to English' parks, 
than the trees I have described as they are foucd in 
the Australian forests on the plains, where hot winds 
blow, and the soil is so often parched up for lack of 



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144 TICTOBU. 

moisture. In the valleys, however, and in the bnsli- 
rangeB, proper, of Aofltralia the case ia widely differ- 
ent. There the trees attain a gigantic size, and 
exhibit a dense foli^;e. While I was in Melboome 
a gain tree was felled in the Dandenong ranges, 
measuring 365 feet to the topmost branch, and 
295 feet np to the first branch. The tmnk was qnite 
straight, and the topmost branch measured 3 feet 
across where it had been broken off by the wind or 
other causes. One gum tree felled at the Black 
Spur is stated to have been 480 feet in length.* 
The gum tree, of which there are several varieties, 
is of the eucalypti tribe. It is the oak of Austr^ia, 
and about as hard, as durable, and as strong as the 
English oak, which it resembles in colour and in the 
strength of its fibres. 

The forests of Australia, in the valleys and in 
the ranges, have sufficient moisture, while on the 
plains they have either too much or too little. In 
the hills there is uniformity in the appearance of 
the conntry all the year ronod. On the plains there 
are exhibited the striking contrasts of scorched 
vegetation and scarcily of food fof stock in summer, 
on the one hand ; and on the other, the Inxuriant 
p^tnres and rich grassy plains — the land of plenty^ 

* See TUuttratid AmtraHan Ifemt of Febrouy S2, I8S9. 



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CUKATIC XXFSBIXNCX. US 

for flocks and herds, and the result of the aatumnal 
rains, as I hare noticed elsewhere. 

About Ecbuca, I heard no complaints from the set- 
tlers, of intense heat. One gentleman, the man^;er 
of a large station, told me he could not bear cold. 
"When the sun is 100 or 110 in the shade I don't 
mind it, I like it," were his words. Another gen- 
tlemanj a iriend of mine, a settler on the Lirerpool 
Plains of Kew South Wales, was warm in admiration 
and praise of the climate of his own Colony, which 
he affirmed to be the finest in the world. " It is 
always warm— yoa can sleep out all night in the 
open air. If yon are out on horseback, and get 
soaking wet, your clothes will be dry on your back 
by the time yon're at home." " But are you not 
likely in after years to suffer from rheumatism from 
such exposure f" I inquired. " Well, perhaps so," 
he replied, " but I hare felt no ill effects from it at 
present. We can do things here with impunity, as 
regards exposure to the weather, that would be death 
to OS in England. Besides, when we are engaged 
about the dntira and the work that belong to station 
life we seldom think of the effect they may hare 
upon our health." 



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TSB OEIAT ACBTEILIAN BIVXB — THB PEKRT — THB PON- 
TOON BBIUOE FLOOUe IN THB MUEKAT PEOSPECTa 

0¥ i. BAILWAT BBTWBKN STDNBT AND MELBOUENK 

THB BIVKK BTKAMEaa AWD THE FXBSTUAN — DIB- 

COTEET Ot THB MOEBIT HT STUET HIB ADVENTUEOPfl 

PASSAGE — ^A BOW OK THE EIVEB — A 8NA0 IN THB 
WAT — A DANOXB BURHOUMTED. 

How many thonaanda of persona there are who 
have heard of the great American river— the Miasia- 
aippi ! How few there are on the contrary who have 
heard of the great river Murray in Anatralia 1 Yet 
the Murray is to Auatralia what the MiBsisaippi is to 
the Continent of America : it ia the largeat river in 
Auatralia. It ia about 2400 milea in length, is navi' 
gable for 2000 miles, and drains 800,000 sqnare 
miles of country. Veaaels naed formerly to go from 
the aea mouth of the river up to Albury, a diatance, 
by the windings of the river, of nearly 1750 milee. 
Latterly they have aacended much higher — into the 
upper waters of the Murray above Albury. Albury ia 
a town on the north bank of the river in New South 
Wales, and ia estimated to be 413 milea from Kchuca. 
Small steamera have gone up the river for a distance 



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. AT THE riBBT HOUSE. 147 

of 450 miles above Echuca. Throaghont the winter 
the Murray Sows deeply, and thougli shallow, in some 
places, in smnmer, yet it is very deep in others, and 
is never dry in any part of it. The Darling, one of 
the tributaries to the Murray, has a course of over 
1800 maes. 

I recroased the Campaap^ by a good wooden 
bridge, 120 feet in length and about 13 feet in width, 
outside measurement. It had a singular appearance 
in spanning a river almost dry, and which jnst below 
here falls into the Murray. From the Campaap^ I 
proceded to the Murray. I am now at the Ferry- 
house on the Victorian side of the Murray, The 
opposite side is New South Wales territory. I am 
looking down on its dark waters. The Ferryman 
has handed me a glassful of Murray water, it is the 
colour of gin, and tastes very well. I cannot see 
far up or down the stream. I perceive that its 
course is tortuous and its current sluggish,and that its 
banks are high, steep and thinly covered with trees 
— atraighter, more leafy, and better looking than the 
treea on the plains close at hand. Though below 
the summer level, the river is here 18 feet deep, and 
at the surface of the water about 180 feet wide. A. 
short distance up the river is the Steamboat and Bail-. 
way landing-wharf; there, steamers are laid up, and 
just above them the river takes a turn, almost, at 



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a right angle. Below me is the Feny, oonsisting 
(when all together) of a pontoon bridge of nine spans, 
formed by thirteen punts on which are laid, from punt 
to punt, 18 arches — nine on each side of the bridge 
roadwaj. These arches are light and low — each form- 
ing a segment of a circle with its chord line at botli 
ends resting on two pnnts : the arches are formed of 
bent plank, and about 80 feet in length, and as they 
span from punt to punt they alao carry the platform 
of the bridge ; and when all the nine spans are in 
place and connected it enables the river to be crossed 
in a flood, when it is 270 feet wide. Originally, I 
was told, the pontoon bridge was 354 feet in length, 
which, I should say, was nearly the full width of 
the river, from high bank to high bank. The river 
being now at its low summer level, there are but six 
spans, which makes the bridge only 180 feet long. 
In one place a double punt is moored, in such a way 
as to admit of quick removal, to enable steamers to 
pass through the bridge of boats. This bridge is 
only for horses and foot passengers — light traffic. 
For the crossing of drays and heavy vehicles there 
is a large punt worked by a rope and windlass. 
While I was standing talking to the Fenyman the 
two " new chums" I had met in the Campasp^ bush 
came up to cross the bridge. As they said they 
had no money, the Ferryman refused to let them 



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b, Google 



b, Google 



b, Google 



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THE OBXAT FLOOD. 149 

pass without the nsnal payment of 6d each, I think ; 
after some grumbling, however, he did so, on my 
B&ying I would pay for them. He had, he said, been 
taken in before and was not to be taken in again by 

In October, 1867, there was a great flood in the 
Murray, It was the largest known for twenty 
years, — so at least Mr. Hopwood, the founder of 
Kchuca, and the " oldest inhabitant," is reported to 
have said. On the occasion of this great flood the 
river at the Perry was 45 feet deep. A short dis- 
tance from the Ferry, at the Steamboat and Bailway 
landing-wharf (which rises, from- the anmmer level 
of the rirer to the platform of the wharf, to the 
height of 40 feet), the flood waters rose up to a 
height of 31 feet. This is proved by a mark made 
on one of the front piles of the platform. Echuca, 
with the flood waters of the Murray on one side, 
and those of the Campasp^ on the other, was, for 
the time being, almost an island. The Murray at 
Ijchuca was nearly a mile wide, and the passage of 
goods and wool was stopped for several weeks. At 
length, however, the waters subsided — when the 
accumulation of goods to supply the several stations, 
and bales of wool for Melboiune, was enormous, and 
had become so serious a matter, that when the first 
dray load of wool passed over, the occasion, I waa 



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150 TICTOBU. 

told, was made a great day of rejoicing. What 
with the punt — freighted with a team of horaesj a 
dray laden with bales of wool, pile above pile, and 
a crowd of passengers and spectators — the scene 
must have been both bustling and exciting, and 
8uch a one as had never before been witneseed on 
the banks of the Murray. 

The floods in the Murray are not, as a rule, of a 
very serious character, aa regards the damage they 
may do. From the height of the banks, and Ihe 
naturally slow current of the river, the floods cannot 
commit the devastations which are sometimes occa- 
sioned by more rapid-flowing rirera and mountain 
streams. 

A bridge is much wanted where the Ferry now is 
at Echuca. I shoidd Hiink that the cost of a light 
iron trellis bridge — for ordinaiy road traffic, or even 
a light railway — would not exceed £15,000. It 
might be made to spaa &om bank to bank. But as 
the wider the span— the higher the sides or girders 
would have to be ; the latter might become incon- 
veniently high, and therefore one span, of about 150 
feet, and two, each 80 feet might suffice, and be sup- 
ported on abutments : and two piers ; the latter 
formed by moajis of 4 — 6 feet cast iron cylinders, 
sunk 15 or 20 feet below the bed of the river, and 
filled with concrete. 



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IHLiSD SAILWATB. 151 

It is to be hoped that the VictoriEui and New 
South Wales authorities may come to some amicable 
arrangement, whereby each government shall contri- 
bate in proportion to the benefit it receives &om the 
bridge. New South Wales is folly alive to the ad- 
vantages of rapid commnnication between its capital, 
Sydney, and iti river Port, Albury on the Murray. lu 
a very few years, it is said, the Railway, which now 
extends from Sydney to the city of Goulboum, a 
distance of about 128 miles, will be continued on to 
the town of Albury, and there be connected with the 
sanctioned line of Railway from Melbourne to the 
banks of the Upper Murray opposite Albury : then 
penions will be able to travel all the way from Mel- 
bourne to Sydney by rail.* Albury is about 207 
miles, by road, from Melbourne, and it ia nearly 
351 miles from Albury to Sydney, making a total 
journey between the two capitals, Sydney and Mel- 
bourne, of 558 miles, or thereabouts. 

* From tlu folloiriiig extract, fh>m the ipeeeh of the GoTernor of 
Tictorii., deliTond on hU clonng the parliusentsiy seuion of ISGH. 
itwillbeaeenthat arailva; tolheopper welenof IheMnrray (which 
apper water* mtj be aaid to commeiKe at Albniyj 1» decided nputi. 
The Bill for eonitnicting this new line of lallwaj ii entitled " The 
EfeendeD and Upper Mnrraj Bailwa/ Conatroctiun 'Biil : — 

" Preliminary atept have bean already taken for oommenciTig the 
important woi^ of the rallwa; to the Upper Mamy , ant) it will be 
the dnty of the Goremraeat (o prosecute the undertalii^jg to com- 
pletion with all co&Tenient ipeed." 



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152 TICTOBU. 

The steamers which ply on the Murray are of 
yarions kinda : they are small bat compact, and built 
specially for inland river mirigation. They range 
from thirty to ninety and up to 200 tons harden. 
" About 36 steamers are engaged in the trade on 
the riTer," said my informant, the san-bnmt Feiry- 
man. He had been twenty -one years on the Murray 
and knew "all aboat it." He was quite a character 
in his way. An elderly man, with a square and 
aafiran- coloured frontispiece dotted with small brown 
spots. An expression of jollity pervaded his jocund 
countenance. In stature He was a broad-built stout 
man — muscalar and well-fitted for hard river-work, 
and was shrewd and intelligent. As the river wm so 
low at this time, the greater number of the steamers 
had ceased running. As a general rule, these river 
boats can only run, continuously, for about five 
months in the year— owing to the shallows and 
sand banks which occur here and there in the 
Murray : one of these shallows was about four milea 
below Echnca; and a little above and below this 
place several steamers were laid up. One steamer 
that I saw was two stories in height — in imitation of 
the American river-boats — only of oourse on a 
much smaller scale. Another was propelled by a 
stem wheel, like boats I have seen on the Seine in 
France. The paddle, or side-wbeeled steamers, how. 



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DIBCOVXBT OF THl XUKRAY. 158 

ever, appeared to be most in uee, aod best adapted 
to the river. 

Thongh navigable — to a great extent — ^for only a 
few montlis of tbe year, the Murray is certainly a 
noble river. 1 was not disappointed with its ap- 
pearance. On the contrary, its aspect, volume and 
magnitude, exceeded my expectations. 

The upper waters of the Murray were first disco- 
vered and crossed by those bold pioneers of settle- 
ment, Messrs. Hume and Hovell, in the year 1824. 
The lower waters of this river were first brought to 
light by the adventurous explorer, Sturt, who was 
also the first to launch upon them his " frail bark." 
Mr. Sturt made his discovery in the year 1830j when 
he little expected it. After endeavouring (during 
the years 1828-9) to find out the riveriae system of 
this part of Australia, in the year 1830, he com- 
mitted himself with his trusty companions in a 
small boat, to the mercy of the, then, unknown 
waters and currents of the MnrmnLbidgee, a river of 
New South Wales. Down the Murrumbidgee he was 
borne, until he reached a swift-flowing and narrow 
part of this river, when he was suddenly and rapidly 
floated oat of the Murmmbidgee, into the wide and 
deep river Murray some distance below Elchacs. To 
the eyes of Mr. Sturt the Murray must have ap- 
peared a majestic river, all the more striking and 



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154 TICTOBIA. 

atb^ctive, because it eoabled him to claim the 
honoor of having firat solved the Bonth AnstraliaiL 
river problem. 

Bent upon farther exploring those waters, he par> 
sued his boating expedition down the couree of the 
Murray, until he reached Lake Alexandrina by the 
Bea, on the south-west coast of Austr^ia. From here 
Start and his followers had now to row back against 
the current of the Murray for nearly a thousand 
miles, by the windings of the river, to the mouth of 
the Mnrrumbidgee, and then up this river till they 
reached their depdt on its banks. They had spent 
eleven weeks on the waters of the Murray in their 
little boat; during which time the hardships and 
sufferings to which they had been exposed, from 
heat, -fatigue, and shortness of food were almost 
without parallel, until they at length regained their 
starting point. 

As all the steamers were at this time laid up, I 
hired a man and a boat for a row on the Murray. 
Years ago I had read with deep interest Bturt's nar- 
rative of his discovery and navigation of the Murray- 
Its thrilling incidents were etill fresh in my memory. 
I pictured to myself the then solitary grandeur of 
this noble stream (now the commercial highway of 
three great colonies) bearing along into unknown 
regions, Sturf s frail craft, with its little crew of 



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A. BOW ON THK BITCB. 15& 

daring explorers, the Tangoard and harbingers, eo 
to speak, of that new civihaation which was so speedily 
to dawn Dpon the AnstraliaD horizon, a result which 
they coold not have anticipated in their most sanguine 
foreboding?. In imagination, I contemplated, aa they 
first appeared to Start,* the bonndlesa and unte- 
nanted plains, the wide nncultirated tracts of terri- 
tory that everywhere met the eye along his ronte ; 
and was struck with wonder and astonishment at 
the marrellouB changes that had been brought 
about in theae regions within the brief compass of 
a single generation — since the tide of civilization 
first began to flow towards the Australian shores. 
These, howsver, are ideas which mnat naturally 
occur to any one who takes what may be called a 
cosmopohtan view of " Social Science," or who in- 
vestigates the great problem of Emigration on the 
apot, with the logic of accomplished facta staring 
him hard in the &ce. 

To return to our boat on the Murray. We quietly 
rowed down the river, at the rate of four or five 
miles an hour, — assisted by a slow current. We 
passed the mouth of the Campasp^, where it flows 
into the Murray — the banks of which just below 
here were steep, high, dry, and lined with trees. 

* CtpUia Sturl died in England daring th« jew 1S89. 



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1S6 noTosiA. 

We ooald see nothing of the anrronnding country — 
BO mocb were we below its level. The colour of the 
river was very dwlc, and its coarse exceedingly 
tortuous. We had to steer round tong-projecting 
points — having corresponding indentations on the 
opposite banks. Parts of the river were alternately 
deep and shallow, with snags over and under water 
in endless variety. These peculiarities, I was told, 
were characteristic features for many miles above 
and many miles below Ecbnca. This makes travel- 
ling up and down the Murray somewhat monotonous, 
and a few miles sail, up or down-stream, enables one 
to form a tolerably accurate idea of the aspect pre- 
sented by the river, over a great part of its length. 
Near Ecbnca I noticed in one or two places that the 
banks were green and garden-like— the result of 
cultivation. In the future it will be the recurrence, 
at frequent intervals, of these cnltivated spots that 
will give an agreeable variety to ihe landscape along 
the banks of the Murray. 

As we proceeded a little further down the river 
the scenery was still the same; so I decided to 
" 'bout ship," and our boat was accordingly beaded 
for Echuca. It was a stiff poll for my boatman, 
agaiust the current, particularly in rounding the 
points. There was some danger too from the 
snags under water — though " snag boats" are em- 



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A NAEHOW KBCiPH. 167 

ployed to remove them. We kept a aharp look out, 
first to one Bide and then to the other, bat we ooidd 
not Bee well a-head. So we thought it beet to 
hag the shore a little, rather than keep out in the 
middle of the stream. I held the rodder lines, and 
I suspect I most have been steering badly, for bs 
we worked slowly np the river, I snddenly felt the 
boat give a lurching lift, as its keel grated harshly 
against a hard substance in the water nnder it. I 
graaped at the higher side of the boat, near to whioh 
there stood out of the water the arm of a dead tree. 
" Keep quiet, sir," said the boatman, " fear often 
makes danger when there is none." So I kept still. 
The boat had stopped. We looked over the side. 
We were in deep water ; and there low down was 
the trunk of a huge tree with large limbs. It looked 
like some " vasty monster of the deep " — black and 
misshapen — ^with long crooked legs and arms out- 
stretched, as if to bid the unwary traveller " stand 
and deliver — his boat or his life " — or both. At all 
events we soon found that our boat was fast caught 
on one of the branches, — not exactly " impaled " or 
"stove in" — ^but arrested. In sb'^rt we felt that, 
in more senses than one, we were " in a fix." What 
was to be done f The boat was slightly tilted to 
one side, so we naturally threw our weight into tha 
opposite scale, lest another larch might cause ua to 



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158 TIOIOBU. 

come " keel upwards." Not knowing exactly what 
to be at to extricate onrselTes fi^m tliis dilemma, 
we continued gazing into the darl: waters — ^wben 
after a brief period of sospense, the branch on which 
we had been fixed broke or gave way, and to our 
great relief we fonnd onrBelTes onoe more s^ely 
afloat — ^having escaped one of the dangers incidental 
to boating in some parts of the Murray. However, 
I retomed to Echuca well satisfied with my first ex- 
cnrsioa on Murray Waters. 



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CHAPTEE Xn. 

07BB THE MUBRiY DirO HEW SOUTH WALES — fEBB 
BELIJCTORB' land — THB lOREBT TEEK8 — A VRZS 
SXLECTOK'S HOKE — THB fABUBB'B WIFE AND FABH- 
INO OPBBATIOKS — LAMD THB COVBTBD PRIZE — ^ACBBAOB 
OF TICTUBIA — LAin) BEQCLATIONS — CLABBIFICATIOM 
or THE LAND IN THE COLONT. 

Beins desirouB of seeing Bometfaing of the New 
South Wales side of the river, I hired a four-wheeled 
car, with a livelyand voluble Frenchman for my driver. 
We crossed the Murray by the ferry-boat, and after 
having ascended the bankfor some distance byarough 
road, Ifonnd myself in the bush in New South Wales 
territory. The land all about here was as level as a 
bam-floor, and was lightly timbered with scr^gy 
" box" bush and light underwood — or scrub. We con- 
tinued our drive for about four miles through the bush, 
till we came to a plain which now looked greenish 
from a recent fall of rain. Beyond thia plain was bush, 
and beyond this bush was plain again, alternating 
in this way for many miles. My driver appeared to 
be familiar with the country all round, and his 
accounts of it were verified by what I saw myself. 



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160 TICTOMA. 

I was now in the district in which the New Sonth 
Wales " Free Selectors" had chosen their lands. 
The part selected, which is occupied by small 
farmers, ia situated in the bnsh, near the banks of 
the Murray. I expressed a wish to see a part of the 
"Fiee Selectors'" land, and my Jehu accordingly 
drore me round it. I here saw that bosh had been 
fiUlen, fences raised, and land oleared in a rough- 
and-ready sort of way. In one of the " paddocks " 
I noticed yoong trees of the gum tribe shooting up 
again. This iadicated slovenly farming: the ground 
had not been properly cleared of the roots — an ex- 
pensive job no doubt for a man of small means. 
One would perhaps imagine that it would be an 
easy task to get rid of these young gum shoots, 
and prevent the paddocks from becoming embryo 
forests; but these blue gums are endowed with 
wonderful vitality : a fire may pase through them — 
you may cut them down to the ground — ^you may 
lop them and top them at all times of the year — ^you 
may mutilate them as yon will — but this will not 
prevent them growing again. - Nothing succeeds 
but total extirpation. They will not however grow 
from cuttings, but are easily raised from their 
seeds. Nowhere have I seen them grow so rapidly 
and luxuriantly as in New Zealand : the English 
climate is too cold for them. Though frequently 



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SHALL FABUDia. I6t 

Btnall ia size and scnggj in appearance they are 
excellent as firewood ; and where the trunk ia 
straight and of good girth they are extremely valu- 
able a3 heavy timbers for carpenters' work. The 
wood is too hard for the purposes of the joiner, but 
is well adapted for wheelwrights' work, and for 
fencing, ^n bark is another hard wood found in 
the colony, possessing nearly the same qualities as 
the blue gum, and almost equally osefnl, but of 
a reddish colour; this, together with the Sidney 
cedar (a wood equal in colour to Honduras maho- 
gany, and as easily worked), grow in certain 
localities only, and the growth of the latter is, I 
believe, confined to New South Wales and the 
country north of it. 

In the course of my excursion I called at the 
house of one of the small farmers — better known as 
"Free Selectors." The house was a comfortable 
weather-boarded cottage. The farmer's wife only 
was at home. She waa a stout, civil, and middle- 
aged " Scotch boddie." She kindly invited me in, 
asked me to sit down, and inquired if I was " thirsty." 
No need of such a question in such a thirsty 
climate. She then gave me some tea, and apolo- 
gised for not having any milk to put in it. In 
answer to a string of inquiries on my part, she 
replied, "We grow fine wheat on our land. In 



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very good seasons we grow 40 bnatels to tlie acre ; 
but in bad dry years like irbat we now have, we 
can only get about 15 bnsbels to the acre. The 
land is good, bnt gets ' baked' in smnmer. It ia 
too warm for potatoes, but maize and wheat grow 
well : wheat likes a dry heat when well ap out of the 
groond, and vines thrive. We should have nothing 
to complain of if we conld only depend apon the 
aeaaons. [All farmers would be of the same opinion.] 
Ab it is we are doing well enough." In her torn she 
asked if I was on the look out for land to select from ? 
I told her not — that I was going to England. " Oh, 
are you — I come from Scotland ; and are yon going 
to the NoHk ?" I replied, it was quite possible — 
when she continued, " Please, then, if you go through 
Gretna Green call on Mr. G — , he is my brother, 
and is the Station-Master there ; — tell him you saw 
me, and he will be so glad to see you." Of course 
I promised to comply with her request, should the 
opportunity offer. Aa I mounted the conveyance, 
and we were drivii^ away, she called after me, 
" Good bye, sir 1 miod you call upon my brother if 
yon can." I rejoined — "All right!" From the 
land of the " Selectors " I returned to my comfort- 
able brick-buUt and well appointed inn near the 
Ferry at Echnca. 
Jjand, from the earliest periods of civilized society. 



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LAND TBI BS8T P&OFZBTT. 163 

has been the great prize coveted hj the bulk of 
mankind, — eagerly songht for by the meaj but only 
attained by the few. Nor can we marrel that snch 
shonld be the case. Beyond doubt it ia the most 
"Holid" and "substantial" [ex reinaturd) kind of 
property that a man can possess ; and if only mode- 
rately fertile, it is a source of " perennial wealth." 
It is a " standing concern" to all intents and pur- 
poses : it cannot run away like a &anddtent banker 
or merchant : it cannot collapse, like a bubble 
company: it cannot "repudiate" like a dishonest 
or bankrupt State : it cannot melt away like flocks 
and herds smitten by plague or murrain : — in short 
it cannot be lost, stolen, or burnt up — ^nor other- 
wise " improved off the face of the earth :" it ia a 
"perpetual treasure** to its fortunate possessor. 
What wonder then if Victoria with such " solid " 
and abundant wealth of this kiud at command, should 
possess so many powerful attractions for the great 
army of the Lacklands, who "vegetate" ignobly 
Dpon their native soil at home, without ever a hope 
of calling one square foot of it their own ? Abun- 
dance of load — as well as of gold — are the rich gifts 
which Victoria has to bestow upon those who seek 
them with energy at her hands ; and her favours are 
chiefly reserved for the " unsophisticated children of 
nature" — the hardy — the "iron-fisted sons of toil," 



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164 VICTOEIA. 

who are preparedj with all their might, to seize upon 
and appropriate the wealth that lies within their 
grasp. These are no idle figures of speech : they 
are facts. Let na "condescend to particulars." 

The total acreage territory of Victoria comprises 
about (55,644,160) fifty-five millions six hundred and 
forty-four thousand one hundred and sixty acres of 
land. Of this there were at the end of 1867 no 
leas than 20,848,623 acres of unsold land available, 
temporarily, I may add, in the occupation of 
squatters. Besides thia there were of waste lands, 
unoccupied, 15,463,747 acres. 

The disposal and allotment of these waste lands 
has hitherto been regulated by the Land Act of 
1862 and by the Amended Land Act of 1865, lAider 
which. Selectors could apply for lots varying from 
40 to 640 acres of agricultoral land: the latter 
number not to be exceeded. These Land Begula- 
tions are now altered by another Amending Land 
Act (No. 360, Vic. 33) passed (December last) in 
the Session of 1869. This newest and latest Land 
Act of the Victorian Parliament, is along Bill and is 
intended to amend and consolidate the various Acts 
passed for the regulation, occupation and sale of the 
several descriptions, of the Crown Lands of the 
Colony of Victoria. 

The Amended Land Act of 1869 appears to me 



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LAND BXQULiTIOHS. 165 

to deal even more liberally witli the agricaltnraJ and 
pastoral intereste than did former Land Acts. The 
great object of the promoters of this Act would seem 
to hare been, to give real encouragement to the 
occupation and coltiration of the agricnltnral lands 
of the Colony by bond fide settlers. The wisest 
plan a colony can adopt. 

1. The Act of 1869 places squatting on a legal 
basis by giving the ronholdere ten years further 
occupation by leases — to be annually renewed— and 
subject to a proviso, that any portion of the Ifuids so 
leased may be selected for Agricultural Settlement. 

2. The standard price of land remains at £1 per 
acre, under various conditions of sale and occupa- 
tion. Every year 200,000 acres of land— but not 
more — may go to auction, for cash, at the upset 
prioeof£l peraore. £200,000 worth of land revenue 
is annually to be set aside for railway purposes. 

3. The most important portion of the Land 
Regulations, are those relating to the disposal of the 
Agricultural Lands, under an improved system of 
Free Selection. Under these regulations, of the 
Bew Act, persona have a right of free selectioa-— 
onder certain restrictions — extending over the whole 
of the unsold or undisposed of lands of the colony, 

4. The principal conditions under which selections 
are to be made, may be briefly described as under .— • 



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168 TICTOEIA. 

S. A Free Selector can appi; for a license to 
occupy an allotment of land of £rom 40 to 320 acres 
in extent : tlie latter number not to be ezceedecL 
On selecting the land be mtut pay half a year's rent, 
aa a deposit for &e same. 

Q. Tbe license entitles bim to occtipy tbe land, so 
leaeedj for a period of tbree years at tbe rate of 2* 
per acre per annnm. 

7. The license further atipvdates : — That the rent 
is to be paid, half yearly, in advance. 

8. That certain improvements, in substantially 
fencing in the -whole of the ground, and cultivating 
one acre out of every ten acres of tbe total nnmbei^— 
flball be eEFected within two years of the issue of the 
license ; and before tbe end of tbe third year, a total 
of improvements, te the value of £1 per acre of tbe 
Allotment, must be performed. 

9. Tbe whole of the conditions being complied 
with at the end of tbe three years : then, in that 
case, the licensee can obtain tbe fee-simple of his 
land-^on payment of 14* for each €U^re of his allot- 
ment. 

10. Should he not be prepared to pay the 14^ per 
acre at the end of his three years Hcense, he baa 
the further privilege and right to take up a seven 
years' lease, at the same annoal rental as before, 
namely, 2a per acre. 



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LAKD ESaTTUTIOKS, 167 

11. At the expiratioii of the Heren yeara' lease 
(if the lessee has complied with the conditioiiB] he 
vill have been ten years in oocapation of his land, 
and haVe paid, in annual rents, the snm of 20s (the 
standard price) which will entitle him to a Grown 
Grant for his allotment. 

12. Should Hie lessee possess the means and hare 
complied with the conditions, he may at any time- 
between the three and ten years — ^pmvhase the free- 
hold by paying tiie remainder of the rent in 
advance. For instance, if he has been in oocnpation 
for a period of six years, he will have paid in annual 
rents the sum of 12«;per acre, and if at tiie end of tiiat 
time be wisbeato porcbase the ireehold be has only to 
pay down 8a per acre more, which process is simply 
paying in advance the four years rent his lease has 
to run, and makeB the total of 20* per acre. 

From the above it will be seen — that amy settler in 
Vidoria can a£quire a fa/na of. Jrofn 40 to 320 acres 
in eideatf by oceupymg tt, improvva.g it and paying a 
rent of 2t per aore far a period pf tm^ years. 

Land tbos aoqnited ia. paid for at the rate of 20< 
per acre; by a system of deferred payments on 
which no interest is chalrged. The late system of 
free selection was popular ; the present mode onght 
to be more so. 

The best proof of the snccess of the late land 



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168 TICTOBIA. 

Bystem under tie Regulations of 1862 and 1865, is 
that up to December, 1867, no less tlian 2,571,172 
acres had been taken np, at a rental of 28 per acre 
per anmiTO, and (under the certificate seleotion) of 
an exhaustive rent of 2b 6d per annnm. 

The foUo^ng is the official detailed classification 
for 1867, of the whole of the lands comprised in the 
colony of Victoria :— 





Acres- 


Land held in fee simple . 


. 7,343,275 


Eoads, &c., in connection therewith 


367,163 


Leased agricnltural lands, at 28 an< 


1 


2s M per acre per annum 


2,571,172 


Roads, &c., in connection therewith 


128,586 


Held under residence and cnltivatioi 




licenses, at 2s 6d per acre • 


226.150 


Occupied as commonage . . 


1,845,444 


Held under pastoral license, at 2.07d 




per acre .... 


20,848,623 


Unavailable land held in connection 




with above 


6,850,000 


Waste lands unoccupied . 


15,463,747 


Total 


55,644,160 



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CRAPTBR Sm. 

A BOILINQ-DO'WH STATION IN THB BTJSH — SHEEP HU.UOS- 
TBEraa— BOILIHO 1EE1S DOWM — SSTSACTIMa THE 
TALLOW FEOM THEK — MnTTOM-PSD PIGS — COST OP 

BOILINO-DOWN aSNEKAL OBS&fiVATIO»B — lUPOBTAIICi: 

OP IBRIQATION. 

I' HAD noTT been across, and some vbj doTni the 
Murray, bat as yet I had not been np stream. Not 
quite satisfied, therefore, and thinking there might 
Btill be something more worth notice higher ap, I 
took a conveyance one aflemooti, accompanied bj a 
gentleman from the hotel, intent upon visiting A 
boiling-down estabhshment. It was bat a short dis' 
tance from Bchuca, and situated on the left or Vic 
torian bank of the Murray. Onwards we went 
through the woods, in the midst of which, hidden 
away, we found the establishment in question. There 
Were trees all around it, and clumps of trees scattered 
here and there, the ground being partially cleared. 
The Murray, though close at hand, was not visible. 
The " establishment," was the property of Messra.- 
Zjeanord and Symerton, and consisted of a group of 



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170 VICTOEIA. 

biiildiiigs Btrongly coiiBtructed of rougli timber feeak - 
from the bash. Some of the workmen's huts were 
built of branches of trees, mia-mia Eashion. The 
works had been recently set up, and bad a new and 
nnfinished appearance as a whole. Still the concern 
was in fall working order, and nambers of sheep were 
sent to the slaughter-hoaBe daily. The manager, in 
a most obliging way showed me over the premises, 
and gave me all the information in his power. 

" What is your first process in yonr boiling-down 
bosiness F" I inqnired of the manager. " The first 
process," he jocularly answered, "is to follow the 
instracttons of Mrs. Glass as nearly as we can : first 
catch your sheep. The other stag^ in oar mode of 
proceeding yoa can see for yourself} whatever is 
not clear to yoa I shall be happy to explain." And 
with this brief introdnction, he took me at once to 
the large sheds and pensj where active operations 
were in progress. 

When duly " canght," and brought into the pre- 
mises, the sheep were pat into pens, where they' 
w«re knocked on the head, by the " barrowman," 
with the blast head of an axe. Thos stanned, they 
were fordiwith dragged oat of the pens ap into a 
shed, where they were laid on a large floor in rows 
— aboat 50 sheep to each row — with their heads 
towards a gutter. The heads were then cat off, the 



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A BOILIHO-DOWN XSTABLISHHIKT. 171 

blood being carried away, by tbe gutter, to a recep- 
tacle, or trough, where it waA speedily eaten op by a 
host of piga. The headless sheep yfetQ next hong np 
on hooks by the hind legs, skinned and " visoerated/' 
A good hand wHl skin on an average about 200 
flheep per day. The entrails were sent down below 
throngh a trap door to the " gutmen," to take off 
the fat. From 20 to 30 of these carcases, thos 
" gutted," were then placed on a truck working on 
a tramway, and taken to another higher floor, called 
the "boiler platform." Here two large iron boiler 
were fixed standing on their ends, with mon-holeB 
at the top, and capable of holding from 500 to 600 
carcases packed and wedged close together, by a 
man placed inside the boiler for that porpose. This 
man's occupation appeared to me to be anything but 
pleasant, with the eon at 90 ia the shade. Under 
the old boiling-down system, the boilers were sap- 
plied with lumaces, and, in skipper's lingo, "when 
tiie cargo wae duly stowed away in the hold, and 
the hatchways were battened down ;" or, in other 
words, the man-hole at the top was closed, and the 
fires were lighted. The boilers being heated, made 
their own steam for aeparatiog the fat and oil from 
the other parts of the carcases. This was the old pro- 
cess. Bat by the new mode, the steam was generated 
by means of two other boilers fixed at some distanoe 



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172 TICTOEIA. 

from the carcase boilers, the steam being conveyed 
b; pipes from the former to the latter. The car' 
caeea were then allowed to eteam in the two boilers 
for about fire honrs, at a presanre of from 25 lbs. to 
30 Iba. When the steaming process was completed, 
cold water was poured on the sodden and seething 
mass of sheep's flesh, to " settle " the dirt, which 
was thus precipitated, by the cold water, to the 
bottom of the boiler. This operation effected A 
two-fold pnrpose, for it served also to raise the fat( 
or tallow and oil to a level with the " fat-coct," or 
tap, which was fixed about half-way np the boiler. 
The tallow and oil isening from this tap were then 
conveyed, by means of sponting, and made to pass 
through strainers, to a large cooler. This cooler is 
first prepared by water being placed in it; the fat is 
then allowed to nm into it, and more water poored 
upon the fat. This process of running water under 
and over the fat, has, I understood, the double effect 
of purifying the tallow, and of raising it up to the 
"fat-cock." This done, the tallow is still liquid 
enough to be run off into casks. And finally, when 
in the cask, (which holds about 7 cwt.) the entire 
mass of fluid matter is well stirred up to mix the oil 
with the tallow, and at the same time to allow the 
remaining steam to escape. The process of tallow- 
making for the English market is thus completed. 



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fiOIUNQ-DOWN SESDLTS. 173 

The casks are then headed up, and sent off by railway 
to Melbourne. 

In these great " Tallow Factories," as I may call 
them, all sorts of sheep are boiled down, young and 
old, male and fem^e, fat and ieaa ; nothing comes 
amiss. A good fat sheep nill yield about 24 lbs. of 
tallow; one moderately fat of average condition, 
about 15 lbs. ; but an old lean and scraggy animal 
will only yield from 1 lb. to 2i lbs. of t^low. Besides 
the tallow there are the skins of the slaughtered 
sheep. These skins are "fell-mongered" for their 
wool by a process of soaking in water and sweatings 
by which means the wool is easily separated from the 
skins, leaving the pelts to be dressed for sale. 

Over-stocked sheep-owners wishing to have their 
sheep slaughtered for their tallow and skins, send 
their flocks, great and small, to this establishment to 
be boiled down, at so much per head. The prices 
charged for this operation, were, for any number 
under 5,000, la per head ; from 5,000 to 10,000 
only 9d per head. By special arrangements these 
prices might probably be varied, but these were the 
terms as given me by the manager. The owner of the 
sheep agreeing to these terms, takes the tallow and 
pelts as his share; the former being casked and deli- 
vered to hia agents in Melbourne, free of expense. 
The pecuniary result of this arrangement is that for 



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] 74 TICTORU. 

certain flocka of aheep, which average per head 
15 lbs. of tallow, the net proceeds accming to the 
owner will amount to from 3a 9d to 4ia per head, at 
the present market price of tallow. This amonnt 
will, of course, vary with the size and fatness of the 
sheep. 

The proprietors of the Boiling Down Establish- 
ment employ a large number of men at a consider- 
able ei^nse; but they work on safe principles — for 
they are sore of their 9d or Is per head. Beaides 
this, there is a little short wool from each skin, and 
all the raw offal and boiled mutton to feed pigs with. 
I noticed from 300 to 400 pigs of a goodbreedroam- 
ing about the ground — some three or four acres in 
extent. In one place I saw what might be termed 
a " pigs' acre '' or " pigs' paradise " — being a field 
coTered aU over with raw sheep's heads laid close 
together — ^upon which the porcine goarmands re- 
galed themselves, when their appetites had been 
satiated with feasts of boiled mutton, and literally— 
orgies of "blood." Passing along, I looked into a 
shed where a gannt Scotchman was engaged in 
cmring thousands of sheep's tongues, and as it was a 
little enterprise of his own, he seemed much in- 
terested in his work. Among other matters, I 
asked "hirn if the mutton-fed pigs turned out well, 
as to the quality of their flesh F He told me that 



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PIO-PIBDIHO AND "LOCAL INDUSTEIES." 175 

when they were " corned up" and hardened with 
maize they made excellent bacon and hams for the 
Helboome market. I ehoxild expect, however, that 
the flesh of animalsj fed in thia way, wonld eavonr 
fiomewhat of mutton, for it is a well known fact that 
in parts of Great Britain, where swine are fed to a 
great extent upon fish and oflal, the flesh of this 
omnivorous animal tastes strongly of its fishy diet. 
It WB8 intended when these works were completed 
that they shonld he devoted to the several operations 
of tallow-making, tanning, wool-washing, tongue- 
curing and pig-feeding on a large scale. 

I have but little doubt that this boiling-down and 
pig-faeding establishment will become as extensive 
as successful. It appeared to be simply and syste- 
matically managed, though so far away in the bush. 
In fact, it may continue to prosper until the influx of 
population treads upon its heels, and bids it cease 
its operations in the destruction of human food in the 
shape of mutton. At present it utilizes surplus 
stock — fiooka of sheep, which otherwise must be left 
to starve, dis, and corrupt on their runs. 

Having completed my inspection of all the arrange- 
ments connected with this boiling-down station, and 
expressing my thanks to the obliging manager, I 
prep^^ to return to Bchaca. Hy hotel-friend was 
with me. He had made a cursory survey of the 



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176 TICTOHIi. 

establishment, aod wondered why I had ma^e ft 
detailed one. Was I going to set np a boUing-down 
business f He merely wanted to ascertain what 
nnmber of sheep this place would boil down in a 
. giren time, and the price per head for doing BO. I 
informed him that mj object was purely to see the 
place, and to understand what I saw of the working 
of it, that I might be enabled to impart to others the 
nature and current mode of operation, in a modem 
Australian boiling-down station. We returned to 
Schuca just in time to see tbe colonial sight of a 
dusty coach, dusty horses, and dusty and heated 
passengers of a Cobb's coach cross the Perry — having 
arrived from Deniliquin in New South Wales, and 
taken the greater part of a day to perform the jonmey 
of 51 miles. 

The river Port of Bchoca is likely to have 'local 
industries' of its own, 'Loctd industries' are fa- 
vourite terms in Australia, and mean foundries, ma* 
chine works, breweries, tanneries, saw mills, tallow 
factories, soap factories, wine-making, potteries, 
paper millsj and workshops for making tinware, fur- 
niture, &c. An attempt, on a more ambitious scale, 
htw been made in Victoria by the formation of dis- 
tilleries and one or two woollen cloth factories. The 
former are generally successful ; but the latter, the 
distilleries and cloth manniactoriesj may be said to be 



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IHFOBTANCX 07 IBEIOATION. 177 

on their trial. The "local industries" of Echnca, 
would, I presume, "be confined to some of the former. 
Irrigation would be of immense advantage to the 
lands about Echuca and the borders of the Murray. 
It has been proposed to utilize the waters of the 
Murray, for irrigaticnal requiremeuts, by means of 
locks in that river.* To effect this on a large and 
profitable scale, no doubt, a large amount of capital 
and skill would be required. But if the rich, pros- 
perous and progressing colonies of New South 
Wales and Victoria were entirely to lay aside local 
jealousies — now yearly decreasinginforce — and would 
combiue to accomplish an object so desirable and 
mutually beneficial, as a system of irrigation works 
on a large scale, there is little doubt bub that, even- 
tually, they would succeed in the enterprise. What 
would the teeming populations of India, Egypt, and 
nearer home, of Italy, do without their fructifying 
systems of irrigation ? and what may not yet be done 
for the lands on both banks of the Murray if the vast 
waters (now waste) of that river are only made avail- 
able for irrigative purposes ? As it is, Echuca will 
become an important town, but with irrigated land all 
around, it might speedily become a populous inland 
City. 

* See VictoriaD Blae Book of 1867— contain ing Tolaminou juid 
intemticg information on thie vital subject. 



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CHAPTER XIV. 

THE COHWTBT BBTWBBN BCHUCi AND BANDHtTB«T — 
8AMDBUBST — A 8CEHB OF DESOLATION ABOUND IT — 

THIS THE CADBK off ITS TTBAITH A FLEA8ANT 

PLACB, WITH A rAHTLIAB NAHE — LEAVE SANDHDKST 
FOB CABTLEUAINE AND UELBOUBNE — IBISH BBTTLBB8 

NCUSROnS A OOSeiF IN A BAILWAY CABBIAQK 

OPINIONS OP A TICTOBIAN COLONIST WHAT TICTO- 

BIAN COIOKISTS EAVB DONE FOB THEMSELVES 

■NQUSH KTSAFPBEHENBION OF AU8TBALIAN COLomSTB 

— THE DUKE OF EDZHBUBSH OPINIONS OH COLONIAL 

AND IHFEBIAL BSLATIONS — ASPECT OF A BtTKAL 
DISTRICT — QEHERAL BEHABE8. 

EcHDCA is a very qoiet place. So quiet that a person 
residiDg in it, without something to employ his time 
mnat soon feel dull and troubled with a sense of 
ennui. I had " done " Echuca : seen all I thought 
worth seeing ; and so, early on one lovely morning, 
I left by the first train for Sandhurst, a distance 
of 55 \ miles from Echuca. 

From Echnca, to within four or five miles of 
Sandhurst, the railway runB through a fine sheep 
farming country, consisting generally of s seriea of 



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MITDHUBST. 179 

plains, more or leas level, and belts of bnsli present- 
ing^ a very agreeable and pictareBqne appearance^ 
the snn-bnmt yellow plain forming a striking con- 
trast with the long stretches of green bosh. I ob- 
served that a great portion of this land was fenced 
in, — bat there were only some half-a-dozen farm- 
^rds and houses, and three or fonr ploaghed fields 
in sight for a distance of 40 to 45 miles. The thonght 
natoTolly occurred to me, as it muat to any one, 
what an immense popniation this extensive area of 
available land would maintain in abundance — if only 
capital and the labour of the husbandman were added 
to the fine soil and Australian climate ! Sheep- 
runs and bonndless untenanted plains would then 
speedily be converted into " broad-acred " farms 
and thriving homesteads ; — nay^ the country seats 
of rich landowners would spring up from the ashes 
of the bosh, and all the outward symbols of ease, 
cultivation, luxury and refinement which characterize 
the "ancestral halls" and "stately homes" of 
Englandj would, in the coarse of a generation or two, 
mark the progress of that civilization which the sons 
of Britain would have carried with them to their new 
abodes. 

Tn due time I arrived at Sandhurst — ^the second 
gold-field town in Victoria, and situated in the noted 
Bendigo diatrict. It contains a population of 1 7,000 



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180 VICTOBIA. 

inhabitanta. In retormng, after a visit I had paid to 
two of the Sandhurst quartz-mining Works, I took 
my stand on the top of a hill that commands a view 
of the snrronnding conntry — Sandhnrab included. I 
obBorred, as far as the eye could reaoh, that Sandhurst 
was surrounded at some little distance by ranges of 
low wooded hills. Between these hills and the town 
the country presented a broken up and desolate ap- 
pearance. There were countless low mounds and 
heaps of white and yellow earthy looking like minia- 
tnre roloanoes — features in fact resembling those 
exhibited by the debris of the surface digging around 
Ballarat. There were, too, numerous tall chimneys 
which seemed as if they had grown up out of the 
ground, and that their foundations must be sought 
for a long way below the surface, where the adven- 
tnrons miner was hard at work, delving away in the 
bowels of the earth at hard quartz veins ; instead of 
loose stuff like that in the deep sinking of the 
" gutter " at BaUarat. 

Such were the surroundinga of Sandhurst, which 
latter stood out in bold relief from the dreary back- 
ground, to which it offered a striking contrast. 
Sandhurst is an active and bustling corporate town, 
with well-formed streets, well-built churches, hoapi- 
tals, banks, hotels, gaols, and other public buildings; 
neat red brick dwelling-houses, and trim gardens. 



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BAHDHUBflT. 181 

In short, it is a smart, compact town in tbe midat of 
a mining country. But, strange to say, it is to the sur- 
rounding desolation that this town owes its existence, 
otherwise it would have been merely a village. The 
picturesque and the nseful seldom go hand in hand; 
utility and beauty are rarely combined. Tme, the 
surface of the country about Sandhurst has been cut 
up and disfigured — for a time at least — until nature 
and art combine to remove the scars and wounds of 
the miner's pick, and make the face of this virgin 
soil "beantiinl for everj" but in the mean time 
thousands of men and their families have found pro- 
fitable employment in the neighbourhood, and have 
established homes for themselves supplied with every 
English comfort. When I was there it was on a 
Saturday afternoon ; many of the labouring class 
were assembled on a large plot of ground in Sand- 
hurst, enjoying themselves in the Bunshiae, with 
games of quoits, and other amusements. 

In the town of Sandhurst is a very plesant walk, 
or promenade. It is called by the familiar, but 
aristocratic, name of Pall Mall. On one side is a row 
of fine shops, in which are tempting displays of arti- 
oles of various kinds, both useful and ornamental, 
which yon can admire at leisure from under a 
verandah that shelters you firom the rain and shades 
yoa ftom the noonday sun. On the other side of 



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182 TICTOBIl. 

the street is a garden with green trees, and green 
laceme as a good substitute for grass. 

From Saadhnrst I continned my journey on to 
Castlemaine, through a park-like country, with hat 
little cnltiration risible. The distance between the 
two places is 22} miles. From Castlemaine to Mel- 
bourne the distance is 78 miles. Along tiiis stretch 
of country I saw much gold land. The country 
about here has not that monotonous appearance 
peculiar to the great Australian plains, the surface 
in places being hilly and nndulatiag, and if fenced 
in with hve hedges would have a very English 
appearance. The soil is fertile, and is better watered 
than other parts of Victoria. Li the carrit^ in 
which I travelled were one or two land agents, and 
several farmers, many of the latter being Irishmen. 
In fact, I was struck with the number of well-to-do 
L^h settlers of both sexes, as well in the country 
parts as in Melbourne. They were eng^jed in various 
oapacitiea — farmers, publicans, cabdrivers, barmaids, 
labourers, and domestic servants, being chiefly con- 
spicDOus. I should imagine that the Irish element 
oonstdtntes a fifth, at least, of the population of Vic- 
toria. In the carri^ife in which I sat, the doings of 
the Fenians in Bngland were alladed to, but only in 
terms of disapproval; the price of land, however, 
and the prospect of large importations of New 



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A colohist's opimiohs. 183 

Zealand oats lowering the price of that grain in 
Melbonmej were discnssed with animation, shewing 
that the pttblio took more interest in business that 
touched themselvesj than in politics, that did not. 
The second arrival of the Duke of Edinburgh also 
formed s topic of conrersation. I asked a fellow- 
pASsenger sitting next me if the Dnke was popular 
in Australia. He replied, "Yes, I think so." "Are 
yon going to make another fnsa with him this 
time ? " " Certainly not ; in the first place, we can't 
afford it, and in the next, we look npon his coming 
back again ae merely intended for a short visit, to 
shew his courage, and to prove that he has no fear 
in trusting himself among Australians." "Do you 
think the Australian colonies are at all likely to 
separate from the mother country f " This was a sort 
of leading question put for the purpose of eHciting 
the opinion of my interlocutor, whom I perceived to 
be a sort of representative man — intelligent and 
shrewd. His answer was thoughtful and deliberate, 
and to the following purport; — "We are not — 
exactly — ready for it — yet. I dare say people in 
England think us a burden. Some say we are not 
taxed to support England. I say why ahould we 
beT We have our own poor, our schools, our 
obnrchea, and oor law courts to keep up, our roads 
to make, our public works to cany out, and to bear 



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1 84 TICTOSU. 

iJI the expeoBfi of onr militia and volunteers, and of 
a local and geneml Goremment as extensive (in 
proportion to onr population) in its ramifioations as 
that of England. Why, then, should we be taunted 
with not contributing to the reyenues of England ? 
Sorely it can't be expected that we should keep up 
two Governments. England contributes nothing to 
ours ; she merely supports her own. But the fact is, 
English people don't take the trouble to understand 
the Australians. They don't know the value of the 
colonies, nor how loyal the colonists are. We have 
had to make the country and provide certain special 
laws for its government. We have fitted it with 
social and political institutions, imported, it is true, 
from onr native conutry, like ao many manufactured 
goods for general adoption, if not consumption. Tet, 
we have done this during the life of the present gene- 
ration. These are great facts which ought, and 
must, go far to outweigh our short-comings in the 
scales of impartial criticism. As regards the Duke 
of Edinburgh, he is a little wild, like many other 
young men, but when he has sown his wild oats, 
and is sobered down a little, I shouldn't wonder 
(if the present good feeling towards England con- 
tinnea), when we do set np for ourselves — as one of 
the Confederated States of Australia — some day, 
perhaps, in fifteen or twenty years' time, or less, if 



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ENGLAND AND HEB COLONIAL POLICT. 185 

he were to be asked to put himself at the head of our 
Government." My intelligent companion was here 
cut short in hia observations by the arrival of the 
train at Taradale Station, where he got out, and I 
saw no more of him j but I am bound to say that 
the interpretations of his remarks, as I have here 
given them, express my own and the prevalent 
sentiments of the more intelligent Australians upon 
the points at issue between the colonies and the 
parent conn try. 

There can be no doubt of the loyalty of the Aus- 
tralian colonies : but beneath an exuberant loyalty 
there sometimes peeps oat an under current of ad- 
verse criticism — if not feelings of irritation — at the 
persistence of the Imperial Government in, what 
has been described as a " haggling" policy, of re- 
questing and receiving payment for one or more 
companies of soldiers stationed in some of the Aus- 
tralian colonies. It is not that they complain of the 
amount they have to pay, but rather that such a 
small amount — as a sort of tribute — should be as^ed 
for by Government, of the richest and Greatest 
Empire the World has ever seen.* This policy is, 

* I Bud, from the Anny EBtimates of 1670-71, that the contri- 
bations from the Colonial Hevenaea of ADglratin to the Imperial 
Government ExpenditDre irere, for the year 1869, as folloiri : — New 
Sonth Wales, £S4,09S i Vicloria, £23,590 ; QneeasUnd, £6340 ; 



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186 TICTOEU, ■ 

by many persoDS, viewed as tmwise, ehort-sigbted, 
and unworthy of a country like Great Britain. For 
after all what does she get oat of it ? bat a few 
thoosands to add to her rerenae of over seventy 
milHoas sterling. Irrespective of this view of the 
case, a certain number of British troops most be 
kept somewhere ; and the expense of doing so most 
SoDth Aastrtlja, £6043 ; making & total Australian coDtribatiou, 
for ona jear, of £60,088. The mUitary espenditare for New Zea- 
land for 1870-71 is the sum of £S00. 

If one ma; jndge ftom the fbllowiDg statement in the Timet of 
Febrnaiy Sftth, 1870, the probable withdrawal of nearly all the 
tToopt (excepting a few in the conyict settlement of Weatem Ana- 
Iralia) in the Ansinlian Colonies — ia leriouslji contcmplatad. and 
therefore the Colonial contribntioa, for 1B70-7I, ma; be exceedingly 
•mall OT nil; — 

" Thb Armt IB THB CoLOHiEH.— The Army Esliinato inclnde 
chat^ea Car military parpoaex in the Colonies a« follows: — Aastraliau 
coloniea, £2S.S7B. of wbicb sum nearly £19,000 is for Western 
Aostratia; British North America, £a!6,!93; Bermada, £187,134; 
Sonth Africa, £132,376; WeK Africa, £34,754-, West Indies, 
£197,998; Mlaritins, £78,N3S ; Ceylon, £160,026; Btraita Settle- 
ments, £78,748; St. Helena, £30,630; China, £166,523; Gib- 
raltar, £270,O0S; Malta, £329,343. The total is £I,905,G38, being 
£684,000 less in (be financial year 1869-70, now nearly closed. The 
probable Colonial coniribntions in aid of this militniy expeaditore 
in the year 1870-71 amonnt to £309,000. They are as follows :— 
Ce7lon,£160,000; Straits Settlements, £69,300; ManriU as. £45,000; 
Hongkong, £30.G0O ; Malta, £6200; West Indies, 4000; Sonth 
Aftica. £13,fi00; Labnan, £1000. This statement of Imperial ex- 
peodltnre ia exdnriTC of the cost of arms, accontreineDtB, barrack, 
hMintal, and other stores, the greater portion of which is supplied 
fhun this country ; it is also exclnure of any proportion of re- 
imiting expenses, head-qnarter adnuoistrative expeotes, and non- 
efftetire charges.'' 



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INQLAND AHD HIB COLONIAL POLICT. 187 

be incarred in England, or ont of it. If it costs, 
aay — for the sake of u^ument — fifty per cent, more 
to support troops in the Anstraliui Colonies th&n in 
Gbeat Britain, and if Australia pays the whole 
Colonial expense of maintaining the troops she is 
permitted to retain, she not only pays the extra cost 
of keeping them in Australia — but also what they 
would cost if they were stationed in Great Britain. 
If a whole regiment waa wanted by an Australian 
Colony the request for payment would not appear 
unreasonable. 

A resort to the alternative of withdrawing the 
troops altogether, and leaving an important British 
Colony without an Imperial soldier in it, would, I 
imagine, be attended with grave consequences, and 
be considered as an unprecedented eVent — the begin- 
ning of a new colonial policy, the results of which 
no one could foretell. If such an event were to take 
place, there would be, in the Colony, but the Go- 
vernor to represent her Majesty the Queen, and the 
Union Jack as the sole symbol of British authority 
in that portion of the empire. The Governor would 
be without a British soldier to place as a sentry in 
front of his residence, and the "Flag" without a 
single red coat for its defence. Then the Colony 
might oome to think itself abandoned. 

I leave my readers to judge for themselves^ 



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whether such a state of affairs would not he cal- 
culated to prepare the way for speedy separation 
under irritating circumatstices, instead of, as I have 
before stated, parting as good friends. 

It is far from agreeable to give exprcHsion to such 
fears as these, but, as I know them to exist to a 
wide extent, it appears to me desirable that they 
should be more fully known ; for — if it is not an «.n- 
daretood intention to break np our Colonial Empire — 
there is yet time to counteract their effects. 

It is not the Colonies that will lose by separation. 
At first it wonld be a shock to their social and 
political ideas. It wonld be but a temporary de- 
rangement of their relations with the mother country, 
residting, eventually, in proportionately leas loyalty 
towards and less trade with England. 

I was much stmck with the EngUsh appearance 
of tbe country on both sides of the railway, at 
Malmesbary, Kyneton Woodend, and all about 
Mount Macedon, The soil was of a light reddish hue, 
and was nearly everywhere under cultivation. The 
whole country wore a picturesque yet homely aspect. 
There were hiUs, dales, flats, ravines, some woods, 
and many fields : there were cottages, farm houses, 
villages and towns to complete an Australian scene 
of rural life. The river Campaspe, which flows 
inland to the Marray, takes its rise in the ranges 



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QENXaAL AKD COKfABATin BEHARES. 189 

here about Motint Macedon. From Echaca, by rail, 
we had partly followed ita directioa, and croBsed 
and re-cro38ed it Beveral times. A resident farmer 
of t^is distriot informed me that the lands about 
heroj which had been under cultivation, were worth 
from £8 to £10 per acre. It was good land, and 
yields crops well. They were always sure of water 
by sinking for it, at a depth of from 15 feet to 
40 feet. 

In due course I arrived at Spencer Street Station. 
And now my journey was over : my excursions in 
the interior of the colony at an end. I had now 
gratified a curiosity which I had long felt a craving 
to satisfy — I had seen some of the principal sources 
of the wealth — commercial — mineral and agricul- 
tural of the great colony of Victoria — tha wealth 
that is produced from the surface of the ground, 
and that which is raised from the bewels of the 
earth. The recollection of all these scenes is still 
fresh in my mind — of Ballarat and the banks of the 
Hurray. Imagination dwells with pleasure upon 
the visions of thriving homesteads, of green fields, 
of villas and lawns, of pleasure grounds and shrub- 
beries, of rills and streams, that will one day border 
and occupy the now lonely forest banks of the river 
Murray. No snows are there here in winter to 
cover the grass and hide it from view ; no locking 



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190 TICTOBU. 

up the land by frost; no suspension of out-doOT 
labonr for three or fonr montlis of the year; no 
raising fodder to feed the cattle and sheep in the 
winter; no housing of stock, because of inclement 
weather and lack of ont-door food ; no closing of the 
Murray from ice in the winter — as in Canada and 
the Northern parts of the United States. But 
much as there has been done, how much more might 
there not hare been accomplished, if Australia (and 
New Zealand) had had bnt a tithe of the capital and 
the new blood which have been poured into the 
United States — emigrants counted by hundreds of 
thousands year after year. Australia is no donbt at 
a disadvantage from its distance away from the mul- 
titudes who want to emigrate — from the European 
hive. Steam has done much for Australia in shorten- 
ing the voyage, but it will do much more. Mean- 
while Australia can wait until ihller knowledge shall 
enable Englishmen to perceive the superior advan- 
tage, which the Australian Gcloniea hold out to 
settlers, and until they can realise the fact that there 
is no country in the world bnt Australia that can 
ofier such attractions to emigrants — as the " British 
El Dorado." 



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OBSERVATIONS AND SUOGESTIONS ON 
EMIGRATION. 

INTBODDCTO&T RBUABK8 THE WANT or EUPLOTmNT 

AND 1T8 CAtrSES — BUORATION BOCIBTIXS ' — WHAT 
SHOULD BB THEIB ULTIUATB AIM — OBEAT BBITAIM AND 
HXB COLONIES EQDALLT INTEBBSTED IN SUIORATIOM — 
A OOTBBNICEMT XKIORATION fiOABS — HOW THE OOTIBH- 
HENT HIOHT GIVE ASSISTANCE — TICTOBtAN QOVEBN- 
MBNT A88I8TANCE TO EHJGBANT8 — aATBS SOB EKIGBA- 
TION, PABOCHIAL AND NATIONAL — EUIQBANTB CONTBTXD 
BY BTKAM-flHIPS — C0NCLD8I0N, 

In the course of writing this work, the emigration 
question has natnraUy been bronght vividly before 
me and engrossed mnch of my attention. I may, 
Uierefore^ with propriety make a few observations 
and suggestions on this all absorbing topic. Besides 
several years experience of colonial life have made 
me familiar with the subject, and without any undue 
pretensioDB to exclusive soorces of information, I 
may add that I have bad special facilities for gaining 
a practical knowledge of all that pertains to emigra- 
tion, — knowledge derived from many years of per- 
flonal intercourse with settlers of every social grade 



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in towns and cities and rural districts. None of 
this knowledge ia " second -hand " — it was acquired 
on the spot ; — so that what I state may be relied 
on. But I might even further add, that long before 
the commencement of my career aa a colonist, now 
twenty years back, my attention had been turned 
to the all-important question of emigration — of 
which I have never since for a moment lost sight. 
It is under these circumstances that I thought it 
would not be inopportune (in Gonnection with the 
foregoing chapters) to offer some hints and observa- 
tions which may, in some nteasure, hare the effect of 
promoting diacnasion npon, and of creating an in- 
terest in colonial topics in general — more especially 
as they bear upon emigration. This result, at least, 
may be attained, even though my views or sugges- 
tiona may not be adopted. 

I have painted the province of Victoria as I found it 
— one of the most promising and prosperous emigra- 
tion fields within the British dominions. The picture 
is not overdrawn. It will be for that portion of the 
public who take an active interest in the welfare of the 
colonies, and in the well-being of the industrious 
classes of the United Kingdom, to turn the informa- 
tion and the facts here set forth to a practical ac- 
count. Individual readers will of course apply the 
subject matter of my observations to their own par- 



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DIBTBISB or THI WOBKINa-0LABa£3. 198 

ticnlar case, wbenerer they have tlie meanB of doing 
80. But it mnat alwaya be borne in mind that to 
benefit and relieve the parent coantiy to any per- 
ceptible extent, and at the same time to develop 
the resonrcea and the wealth of our great Colonial 
Empire in a sensible degree. Emigration must be 
carried out on a large "national" scale, and not by 
driblets — not by the deaaltory, thongh laudable, 
efforiis of philanthropies, of small societiea, or of 
individual exertion a. 

To whatever causea the depressed condition of 
trade now bating may be attributed, the fact is 
patent to observing men that distress is wide-spread 
and deep-seated, and that an alarming amount of 
destitution pervades the ranks of the working clasaea. 
And what is no leas deplorable, thia untoward state 
of affairs presents no immediate prospect of a change 
for the better — no visible symptom that matters are 
about to mend — no solid gronnds for believing that 
we are in a mere " state of transition," or that the 
fiiture will provide a remedy for the Want, that, 
gannt and grim-featured, has of late knocked at 
the door of many a British working man, and — ^found 
an entrance. 

If we take the Metropolis itself as a gauge of the 
present condition and future prospects of the laboor 
market, with reference say to the building and other 



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194 TICTOEIA. 

trades and occupations dependent on tbem, we find 
that Buch gigantic public works as tlie High, Middle 
and Low-level Sewers, the Thamea Embankment, the 
Undergound Railway, St. Thomas's Hospital, Hol- 
born Yiadnot, Blackfriara Bridge, the monster Rail- 
way Stations and Hotels, the palatial Warehonses and 
Offices in the city, the opening up of new Streets, 
and the mania for Saborban buildings, hare all con- 
tributed' to attract thousands of aiiizans and labourers 
from the country to London. Now the works jost 
enumerated are nearly all completed. Those few 
which are not, will be 80, during the incoming sum- 
mer, and there is no likelihood of other great public 
works being undertaken to supply their places. As far 
as one can see, the New Law Courts, some additional 
Government Offices in Downing street, the new Tele- 
graph Offices, Tramways, and a few other projected 
building operations, are the only public works, of any 
great importance, likely, for the present, to be a 
source of employment to the working classes of the 
metropolis. Ratepayers cannot always be effecting 
great sanitary improvements, nor can railway or otiier 
companies be continuously erecting immense piles 
of building — for there is a limit to their means and to 
tiie public requirements. As to speculating builders 
— they appear to have accomplished one object at 
least very effectually — ^namely, (many of them) their 



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WAHT OF HUPLOTIiaNT. 195 

own min (judging from the number of them who have 
appeared in the " Gazette " within the last twelve- 
months). They have also, for a time, overbuilt 
London. A like resnlt has been bronght about in 
some of onr large provincial towns ; and the conse- 
qaence is— a general cessation of building and exca- 
vating operations throughout the kingdom. If to 
this we add the commercial and manufacturing 
depression that exists, can we wonder that eo many 
thousands of working men are out of employment, 
and that there are but faint hopes that public works 
on any considerable scale, as in the last few years, 
will be nndertaken for years to come ? 

These labourers and artizans without occupation 
— these men of brawny arms and vigorous muscle — 
are the very class of which Victoria stands most in 
need — now more tfum ever. For she has succeeded 
within the last two months in raising a loan of over 
a million and a half sterling on the most favourable 
termsjforthecons traction of railways, waterworka,&o. 
And as a guarantee that the colony is fully warranted 
in embarking upon costly enterprises of this charac- 
ter, we find, from the latest accounts &om Melbourne, 
that such is the vigour and elasticity of the revenue 
for the past year (1869) that the receipts have ex* 
ceededthe estimates by no less a sum than £200,000, 
This fact has been made known within the last few 



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196 yicTOBU, 

days, and it afibrds a strildiig corroboration of the 
statements wkict I have put forward in the fore- 
going work as regards the flourishing condition of 
the colony. And more particnlarly so as regards 
my statements of the rates of wages, which I was 
anxious (to prevent disappointment) should not be 
overrated. It is therefore a source of gratification 
to myself to find that I have understated rather than 
overstated them, as may be seen from the following 
extract I hare cut out of the Melbourne Argus of 
January 8rd, 1870: — "For the information of our 
readers in Great Britain, numbers of whom we hope 
to include among our readers iu Victoria, we have 
been at some pains to collect irom independent and 
authentic sources the rates of wages actually current 
at this moment in Melbourne. They will be found 
in another column, and it will be seen that for skilled 
labour generally — for artisans engaged in the build- 
ing trades, for example — the rate is 10« per diem, 
the working day being limited to eight hours. For 
cabinetmakers, ironfounders, and mechanical engi- 
neers, this may be taken as the minimum, the maxi- 
mum ranging firom 12s to 143, according to the 
quality of the work to be performed and the special 
capacity or technical skill demanded for its per- 
formance. Builders' labourers receive 7«, and 
pick-and-shovel men Ge per day of eight hoars. 



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aii;B0UKK8 BATXS 07 WAOBB, 197 

Good tailors are said to be scarce, and can earn 
from £3. to £3. 15« per week, but in the factori^ 
they do not average more than from £2. 10s to £3. 
Tailoreseea earn from 30^ to 40«, and machinists 
from 20a to 30s. For girls the rate varies from 
12s 6d to i7s." 

Many men amongthelaboaringclaaaea in England, 
and now residing in towns, have been brought up to 
agricultnral work, and are accordingly well adapted 
for those rural colonial operations now so much ia 
demand. 

Jndging from what we read in the colnmna of the 
press day after day, the public are at length fnlly alive 
to the importance of emigration, as a means of allevia- 
ting the existing distress. The only difficulty is how 
to work out the problem in an effectual manner. 

There are several societies in London, each doing 
good in a smtdl wayj but they are like a variety of 
little rivulets that never combine to form one goodly 
river. Men of wealth and position, as well as in- 
telligent working men, are strenuous in their efforts 
to forward the cause of emigration through local 
committees and otherwise ; but they all act without 
co-operation, without any systematic and combined 
mode of action. The result is a waste of power, from 
the forces being disti-ibnted over too wide a surface, 
instead of being united for the working out of a 



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198 



object. It is like nsing hand-labour 
instead of poweiful machinery worked by steam : 
the amount of work turned out is very small — thongh 
good of the kind. But in order that the emigration 
movement should have an appreciable effect both at 
home and in the colonies, it nmst be carried out on 
a broad basis — on a large scale ; — the movement 
must become essentially a national one. But now 
comes the difficulty that assails philanthropy, men 
of action, and it may be statesmen : — Given plenty 
in the Colonies and want in the United Kingdom, 
the problem is to find a terfhm, quid — an efficient 
means — ^by which Poverty and Plenty shall be 
brought together, and the former absorbed — " taken 
up and done for" — by the latter. 

One party maintains that the Government should 
take the matter in hand, another, that the Colonies 
themselves should do so j another party advocates 
parochial action, by the levying of a special rate ; 
another thinks that the wealthy should subscribe 
largely; another recommends that the working classes 
should help themselves, and each other, by contribu- 
tions to emigration clubs j another is of opinion that 
the " Emigrant and OoloniBt's Aid Corporation's " 
plan of acquiring lands in the Colonies and assisting 
emigrants to settle on them, is the proper way ; while 
yet another party in the country denies the neces- 



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BCHIHES lOB BKIOiUTIOy. 199 

aitj of emigration altogether, and advocatCB a Bcteme 
of its own — ^that of locating the unemployed and 
Burplns population upon the waste lands of the 
TTnited Kingdom — as a panacea for existing distress. 
Whatever may be the merits of the last-mentioned 
plan {and I will not for a moment deny that it pos- 
Besses certain claims to attention, considering the 
lai^ amount of nnreclaimed land in some parts of 
England and Scotland and more especially in Ire- 
land) I mnst here decline to entertain or discuss them, 
beyond stating that I have grave doubts of the feasi- 
bility of such a scheme. The "waste lands" of 
Gireat Britain are not public property : they belong 
for the most part to private individuals~-^x.Cieptmg 
forests and crown lands ; but in any case, even if 
such a proposal were entertained and could eventually 
be carried out, there would be great delay and diffi- 
culty, and its application would be remote ; whereas 
emigration affords immediate relief to distressed 
working men, who must needs starve if they have 
to wait until the British Legislature (in which the 
landed interest is paramount) may be constrained, 
at some future period, after long years of agitation and 
irresistible pressure, to introduce a Waste lands bill, 
to carry it through both Houses of Parliament, to get 
the lands surveyed and allotted, and to provide the 
" settlera " with everything they require at starting, 



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to wit, farming implements, seeds and live stock— 
leaviog "capital" out of the qneetioQ. 

Now in each of the other plans which I hare enu- 
merated, there appetu'S to me to be contained a germ 
of practical wisdom and utility, and if we could only 
Buooeed In combining them systematically and har- 
moniously — of welding them together into a con- 
Biatent whole — then we might be able to produce a 
simple and uniform scheme of emigration, applicable 
to the kingdom at large. 

But first of all we must clearly understand, that 
besides the persons immediately interested — namely, 
the emigrants themselves, there are two other 
parties whose interests are also involved in any 
general scheme of emigration : the one, the Mother 
country, the other the Colonies — or what may, per- 
haps, be termed the chUdren'e country. Both par- 
ties are gainers by emigration, and perhaps in an 
equal degree. The parent country is at once re- 
lieved of a surplus population for which she cannot 
find employment, and which become a burden to 
the ratepayers and a danger to the state j — for times 
of distress are apt to beget terrible commotions, 
and to breed lawlessness and crime. On the other 
hand the Colonies, are glad to receive a population 
that supplies them with abundant labour, and that 
enables them to develop all the resources of the 



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GOTXBNXBNT AID IS BHIOEUTIOIf. 301 

soil ; while the rapid increase of colonial wealth and 
popalation is directly beooficial to the parent coantry 
by the growth and extension of commercial relation- 
ships and by the great additional conanmption of 
British manufactnrea. 

It is no part of my wish or intention here to 
argue the question from a colonist's point of viewj 
and if I do so it is done nncoDscionsly. I am desi- 
rous of regarding it in the light in which a disin- 
terested British subject, anzionB for the welfare and 
integrity of the whole empire, would consider it. If, 
then, the position nhich I have taken up be allowed, 
that emigration is a reciprocal benefit to the old and 
to the new countries alike, it will, I think, be granted, 
as a necessary consequence, that the expenses of any 
great scheme of emigration should, for a time at 
least, be shared equally by Great Britain and her 
Colonies. The Imperial Government, so far as I am 
aware, has hitherto contributed nothing in aid of Aus- 
tralian emigration. Becently it has done a little as 
regards Canada (and, I may add, wisely too) in the 
way of lending vessels of transport ; and thus the 
injudicious rule oinot doing something now, for the 
reason that it had never been done before, because 
there was no " precedent" for it, and that it was not 
so urgently required, has at length been broken 
through, and there is a bright prospect that efficient 



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state support and assistance will io future be given 
by the Imperial GoTemment, if those gentlemen who 
are agitating so strennonsly for assistance to enable 
the unemployed to emigrate, wHl be reasonable in 
their demands and will put forward practical 



Now, if every Emigration Society, or Clnb, or 
Board of Guardians, acting and keeping within its 
own sphere or district, would contribute the money 
it raises by subscriptions or weekly payments, or 
rates, aa the case may be, to a General Fond, to be 
placed in the hands of an Emigration Board to be 
set on foot by the G^ovemment, for the purpose of 
sending out emigrants chosen by each society, in 
proportion to its contributions, the work could be 
done on a large and uniform scale and upon economi- 
ccd principles, instead of each local body acting for 
itself, one sending out a few emigrants, and another 
a few, by passenger vessels taken at random, and at 
rates exceptionally high. Another waste of force I 
The motto of Emigration Socities should be, " Oon- 
cenirate your energies." A Government Emigration 
Board, established to promote and control emigra- 
tion to the Colonies, might be grafted on, or might 

■ Since these remarks were penned an important debate on emi- 
gration haa taken place in the HonM of Commons, dnring which 
tlie Gorenunent — tbrongh Mr. Glnditone— baa girei) > definite pro- 
miM to gire uaigianre, in ihipa, in the good work of emigration. 



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A OOTIBlTIIXirT BOIBD. 208 

saperBode the Park Street Emigratiou Commie- 
sioneis, who appear to have little or nothing to do. 
A Board of this kind, constituted of practical meuj 
who understand the wants of the colonies, and who 
are sufficiently conversant with the working details 
of emigration, whether at home or in the colonies, 
to be able to deal with ship-owners and agents on 
equal terms, and to enter into contracts without 
being obliged to depend upon the judgment of third 
parties^ — of deputies' deputies — a Board of this kind — 
which should be eseentially aworkmg Board, and not 
a mere ornament, sitting for a few hours daily round 
a table, and requiring an expensive set of offices, 
with a regular staff of clerks to make a show — would 
accomplish more in the course of a twelvemonth, in 
results, than could be effected in as many years by 
. the desultory efforts of individuals, by societies, or 
by boards of guardians. A Government Board of 
this character would enjoy the confidence of colonial 
Governments, in conducting negotiations that may 
be necessary for inducing them to take part in the 
colonial management of emigration, for contributing 
to its cost, and for directing their various London 
agents to act in concert with the Imperial Board in 
selecting such emigrants— on the Board's books — as 
the agents might deem eligible for their respective 
colonies. I cannot too strongly insist upon the fact 



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204 TICTOBIA. 

that the Board here contemplated maet not be an 
expensive one ; if it be, it will be above its work, 
and worse than useless. In short, we want a Board, 
some of the members of which will go down to the 
docks and examine the ships for themselves, overhaul 
the stores, test the provisions, look into the accommo- 
dations, and tell the emigrants by word of month 
what line of conduct they are to pursue on their 
voyage, and what course of action they will have to 
adopt on landing in the colony. Work of this kind 
is generally considered beneath the "dignity" of 
most Boards ; bnt emigrants are not an over-refined 
class, and they can dispense with the shadow, when 
they geb the substance. 

Under these circumatanceB, and taking all the 
foregoing facts into consideration, would it not be 
good policy on the part of Her Majesty's Govern- 
ment to relinquish the project of selling off the best 
of the various war ships which have lately been put 
into the market, as being— from recent changes in 
naval warfare — ^no longer useful for the purposes for 
which they were built, and of placing them, under 
certain conditions, at the service of an Emigration 
Board F These are good ships, and have cost the 
nation many thousands oi pounds sterling. If put 
up for sale they would not fetch a tithe of their 
original value, not having been designed for mer- 



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BnSPLDS ITAX-SHIFS. 206 

oantile pnrposeH. Instead, therefore, of selling these 
Tesaela at a merely nominal price, would it not be 
wise on the part of the Goremment, at a great crisis 
like the present, to have these veaaela, as well as 
eome of the spare troop-ships, fitted ap for the 
transport of emigrants, under their own direction F 
It cannot be that the British taxpayer, or the British 
public, would raise any objections to a scheme of 
this kind on the score of economyj or otherwise; 
the outlay would be inconsiderable ; the boon to the 
emigrant solid ; the adnuitage to the nation at large 
obvious and palpable. 

To any large free grant of money from the pubKc 
purse for the purposes of emigration, I see obsta- 
cles. There would, probably, be many objections 
raised. It might, perhaps, have the effect of giving 
an midne stimnlus to emigration for a time, and of 
causing a reaction when the fond was exhaosted. 
This is a danger to be avoided. Emigration is a 
stream that must be fed from the regular and con- 
stant sonrces of the country— sources which can 
never run dry. In other words, emigration, to be 
successful, must in ihe main be self-supporting. 
Can it be supposed that the Colonies would vote 
money in aid of emigration, if emigrants were sent 
to them "free gratia for nothing?" Or, again, 
what inducement would there be to some workmeai 



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206 TICTOBTA. 

to save up and contribiite to their passage expenaes, 
if it were once known that Govemment had relieved 
them of all care and responsibility in looking after 
themselves? And, finally, wonld the public give 
donations, or would vestries levy rates for the sup- 
port of emigration, if Government were to as- 
sume the task of sending oat the surplus popu- 
lation — the paupers in posse, if not in esse — at the 
eicpense of the nation ? 

It might fairly be presumed that when it ia proposed 
to extend Imperial assistance, in the way of loans, 
to Irish tenant-farmers, to enable them to purchase 
lands they now hold as tenants at will, there would not 
be any sound objections to the Government advancing 
certain sums as loans, to send out assisted emigrants 
to such colonies as are not in a prosperous financial 
condition — provided the Govemment of each of such 
colonies so assisted guaranteed the repayment of 
principal and moderate interest added thereto. Tas- 
mania and Western Australia offer but limited fields 
for emigration. Bat to New Zealand, with its teem- 
ing and undeveloped resources, the offer might be 
gracefully made, and would, I should imagine, be 
gratefully received and accepted. 

Such are a few of the difficulties that beset one 
at the outset iu cousideriug the problem how far it 
is possible and feasible for the Imperial Govern- 

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FltOFOBSB KlUGRATtOH BCHXHB. 207 

meat to deal with the question , of emigrattOQ on a 
"national" scale. If, however, a practical arrange- 
ment could be arrived at, by which the Govern- 
ment contributed, by ships and management, to the 
value of £3, 10» per head, for each eligrible emigrant 
to be sent out to Australia or to New Zealand, and 
the public gave, by aubscriptione and special poor- 
rates, £4. Ids per head — the varioas Anstralian 
Qovemments supplementing the sum by a like 
amount (£8);^ — this would make a total of £16, 
which might be expended in this way : — £12. lOs as 
the passage rate, £3 assistance and outfit, and lOs 
to each emigrant on landing. A scheme of this 
kind, if it could be carried oat, would relieve the 
strong, able-bodied, and unemployed poor. The qua- 
lification entitling a man to relief in this way would 
be the fact, testified by competent evidence, that 
the recipient had been oat of work for many montha, 
and was utterly destitute of the means of support for 
himself^nd his family. . In this way, and after being 
duly approved by their respective colonial agents, 
the Colonies might also not object to take a consi- 
derable number of the school-trained workhouse 
lads and girls above 14 years of age. The lads 
would be found very useful at light work apon the 
farms, while the girls would be foimd very valuable 
(especially if properly trained to do washing, cook- 



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208 TICTOBU. 

ing, and cleaning), as domsstdc Berrants, for whicli 
there is a universal demand. 

The Coloniee, as a rule, will take out no confinned 
panpers or " street Arabs" as emigraitts : — ^but an 
honest man, steady, able and willing to work — ^who, 
to save himself from starving, has accepted out- 
door relief — surely should not be shut out from the 
benefits of emigration. 

The Victorian Government at present grants 
free passages to eligible single women under 35 
years of age, and "assisted passages" to males 
under 1 5 years of age at £2 per head ; under 40 
years £5 per head, and 40 years and upwards £8 
per bead. For females under 15 the chai^ is £1 
per head ; under 40, £2 ; and 40 and upwards, £5 
per head.* The sums I have named are the total 
amounts required to be paid as passage money by 
the emigrants. There is, however, this condition 
attached, which is somewhat restrictive, that the 
parties accepted under the above terms most have 
been nominated by their friends in Victoria. It is 
not likely that these conditions could be extended 
to persons recommended by ordinary Emigration 
Societies in England. Nevertheless, a Government 
Board, acting under Imperial Authority, might fairly 
be expected to succeed in negotiating with the 

* The contract price for taUng oat emigranta to Tictoru, nnder 
good regnlaiioiifl, Tuici from £13 to £13 per adult. 

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NATIONAL IKIOBATION BA.TB, 209 

AiutraliaD GoTenunente for an extension of this 
eystem npon equitable and satdafactory terms. 

In any scheme that ms; be adopted, it is Mghly 
expedient tliat tlie emigrant ahonld be landed in 
the colony, wholly free from indebtedness on acooont 
of his passage money — ^repayment of which, to any 
great extent (where the emigrant's note of hand — 
payable to the Gkiremmenl — is the sole security), 
judging from my own experience of the system, can- 
not be relied upon, and the resolts in most cases are 
nnsatisfactory. 

As regards the application of parochial rates to 
the purposes of emigration in Loudon, metropolitan 
rate-payers might perhaps urge, "If we levy an 
emigration rate we shall have the poor from the 
provinces flocking in to participate in it." But the 
remedy for this would be, that all persons selected 
to emigrate should be required to hare resided a 
certain time — say 12 months at the least — in the 
parish by which the rate is levied. But if the 
distress is general (which is an admitted fact) why 
not levy a uniform national emigration rate — which 
need only be moderate ; — in which case each district 
or parish wonld be entitled to nominate as many 
eligible persona as would absorb the amount it con- 
tributed in rates. 

There ia but little fear that too many of the in- 
duBtrions bees would thus be taken away from ihs 



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210 rtcTOBU. 

British hive, with ite thirty milHoiis of people. The 
population Bwarms too rBpidlj for that — too fast in 
fact for the pace at which trade moTCB. It should 
aleo be borne in mindj that Great Britain no longer 
commanda or monopolizes (as it did formerly) the 
greater part of the trade of the world : much of it 
has passed into other bands ; and those who reinse 
to encourage emigratioii on the ground that we 
may shortly anticipate a revival of trade, as well as 
others who look for the development of Malthnsian 
tiieories, may probably be disappointed in their ex- 
pectations, and may live to witness (if emigration 
on an extended scale be not resorted to] a state of 
indigence and crime — which may prove diaastroas 
to the welfare and stability of the Empire. 

Besides, the unemployed aad destitute poor to 
whom I have here been alluding, there is another 
large class daily becoming poorer: I mean those 
who have saved a little money — and who, through 
dearth of employment, or total lack of employment, 
are anxious to improve their condition by emigra- 
tion. Now, as many of this class of persons have 
not the means of paying the high rates of passage 
to Australia, they emigrate to the United States, 
to which they can go qoiokly and comfortably by 
steam for from £6 to £8. This is all in favour of 
America and against Australia as a field for emigra- 



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mOIUTIOH BX BTEAM-SHIPS. 211 

tion. To counterbalance these drawbacks aa against 
Anstralia, a powerfiil Steamabip Company was an- 
nounced to be formed in Melbourne at the close of 
tlie year 1868. So feasible did the scheme appear 
that the Victorian Government itself took up the 
matter. The first thing they did was to advertize 
on the 28th of January, 1869, for tenders for a 
monthly postal steam service for the conveyance of 
mails and immigrants aid the Cape of Good Hope 
(both ways) . The steamships were not to be leas than 
2500 tons burthen, and were to be capable of carry- 
ing 600 steerage passengers comfortably. Tenders 
were to be sent to the Victorian Government not 
later than the 25th of November, 1869 ; — so there is 
at present hardly time to know what their decision 
is. It is known, however, that tenders to perform 
tiie service have been sent in. It was calculated 
that the distance from England to Hobson's Bay 
might be done in 46 days, at the rate of the high 
speed of lOJ knots per hour for a distance of 11,000 
miles. Thisjin point of time (if practicable), would 
compete with the overland route vid Suez ; and if 
the Victorian Government would fix a low rnte of 
passage money, they would attract a large popula- 
tion, and become successful rivals of the Unitod 
States. It is impossible to exaggerate the im- 
portance of an enterprise of this kind, and I know 



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212 vicTosu. 

of no other moasnre that would promote, in an equal 
degree, the emigration of persons of small means, 
and contribute at the same time to the material 
weliare and prosperify of Great Britain and of her 
Anstralian ColonieB. I tmst, therefore, that the pro- 
ject ma^ find favoar with English capitaliats, who 
already derive so mnch advantage from successfnl 
enterprises connected with the Australian Coloniea.* 
The whole of the six Colonies which constitote 
Anetralia Proper, contained in 1867 a European 
population of 1,697,839 soola. New Zealand, at 
the same time, had a European popolation nnm- 
bering 218,668 souls. At present the total po- 
pnlation of Australia and New Zealand togeUier 
may be estimated at two millions — every man, 
woman, and child of whom are consumers of British 



* Bince the above was written, I set — ftom ths recent speeoh of 
his Eicellencj S!r J. H. T.Matmen Satton, delivered in proroguing 
the Victorian Parliaiiieiit in December last — that the consideiMion . 
of the project for otablisbbg thi« line of eteamera is pos^Kmed 
□nd] next session. Tbcu full dnie will be given for the derelt^ 
ment and setlkment of IhU most important meosore. The following 
ia a cop; of the paragraph referred to : — 

" In leeponie to a notice pnblished in the colon/ and in London, 
tendera have been received for the eatabliBbmeat of a postal and 
passenger service with Great Britain bj the waj of the Cape of 
Good Hope. H; adTiiers regard the eataUishment of •och a line 
o( commonication as of great importance ; bnC in the absence of 
Iw^lative anthoritr for any expenditure for immigration, flirther 
action must be deferred until the re-assembling of Fartiament" 



D,g,t,ioflb,GoOglc 



COHCLUBIOH. 218 

tnaiiDfaotures. Besides wheat, wine, and wool, tlie 
staple produce of each of the fonr principal Colonies 
in Australia, South AnBtralia is well known for its 
copper mines j New Bonth Wales is noted for its 
coal minee ; Queensland is attracting attention for 
its cotton growth ; and Victoria is tamoas for its 
gold mines. Here we have Wheat, Wine, Wool, 
Copper, Goal, Cotbon, and Gold, as the solid bases 
of Anstralian prosperity. 

And now, in conclusion, to reiterate the pith of the 
foregoing snggestions in a few words. I would recom- 
mend combined action of all local Bocieties, whether 
clabs, parochial bodies, or otherwise — all acting ander 
a central working Board, appointed by the Govem- 
ment. By this means there will be a saving of 
time, labour, and expense. I also recommend that 
strong preasore from without should, if neoeasary, be 
brought to bear upon the Government, to induce 
them to give up their surplus war-ships for emigra- 
tion pnrpoBes. On the whole, it appears to me both 
nnwiBO and impolitic to delay any longer the orga- 
nization of a scheme of emigration to our colonies. 
It was never more urgently needed than at present, 
and years may elapse before we have a change for 
the better. There are not wanting indications that 
point to a continuance of commercial depression. 
Great Britain is at present surrounded by mantdao- 



D,g,t,ioflb,Google 



214 TIOTOBU. 

tnring populations. Fraaoe, Belgium, and Germany 
compete BooceSBfully witli us, not only for the ta»de 
of Uie whole world, bat even, in some caaes, for tlie 
internal trade of England itself. We have only to 
look at the daily increasing consumption of articles 
of foreign manufacture, in wool, in iron, and cotton, 
our own staples. At one time we had none of these 
foreign rivals, now so formidable, — ^but at present 
we have to encounter them by land and sea. Never- 
thelesB, with all these odds gainst ns, we need not 
despair. Keener competition in the contest for 
foreign trade should raider stimnlate us to increased 
exertions. AH the energies, all the abilities, all tJie 
inventiTe faculties, and all the industrial resources 
of our race — which has given to the world the 
benefits of its machinery, its railways, and its elec- 
tric telegraphs — are not yet " used np " j but they 
will be taxed and strainecl to the utmost to enable 
us to hold our own for the time to come. One 
source of consolation we have left, if we can so 
regard it-^we have still Uie Colonies to fall bade 
upon — at least while we can yet caU them our own ; 
and there we can find a home for our surplus popu- 
lation and a market for our surplus manofactoreB. 



D,g,t,ioflb,Google 



SELECTED 



THE BRITISH COLONIES 



ESWABD STANFORD, 
6 & 7, CEASING CEOSa. LONDON, S."W". 



J<w(puJiUi7)ed,>uii«r royal Ifimo. eht\ U id, 
(TJDifoim with " Ticloru" Uie " Biitish El Dorado,") 

FOUR YEABS IN QUEENSLAND, 

Br. E. B. KENNEDY. 
With Photograph of a " Sqnatter's House," aod a Coloubbd Maf, 
(Scelo 64 miles to an inch ; size, S3 inches bj IS) abowiug all Ihs 
latest Discoveries from Private and other Sources, with the Agri- 
coltoral Districts and Gold Fields clearljr defined. 



SELECTED OPINIOITS OF THE PBES8. 

cootilat <n B mull compua > mtuB at uKmi iDggtrtlong to InMndlDii emlgnoM, 
Thoroughlf interutdiig mi rendKbls froin iHglnnLnKtfl cud."— fiomtner. 



" Thta it ths kind or book which ■ 
to Jod^ mora eiactlr u to hlj toCoj 



There li more Tihmbls mitter Is tbla amiUbook thin nlll Mfnnnd InmAor 
'id mnch groster protonBloDe. It 1b marked tij 
BdB Uke jui honest book. "-^JTaveAei^fr i?ttirrfiaii. 



thOrDUffb 



D,g,t,ioflb,Google 



QXTEENSLAND, the futc^ Coxroir-Fua/D op Gbeat 
BiuTAiM, and a htghlj eligible Field for Emignttioa ; witli a Dis- 
qoisiiion on the Origin, Honnen, and CnsbiinB of the Aborigines. 
By John Uubmohe Labo, B.D. A.M. Second Edition, post 8to. 
witb Two Colooied Mips, price I2t. 



OVERLAlfD from SOnTHAUPTON to QTIEEHSLAin). 

Bj M. H. MiBSH, M.A., F.B.O.S. With Ttiree Colonred Mi^. 

Crown 8to. cloth, 3i Srf. 

"Tbere li scu-cel; > mbject opon vlilcb the tnTeller or smlgnint IrliliM lo be 
Infansed whlcb [i not dlKosied wltta the grutAit etie, ud siiplMD«d iritli the 
ntmnit pceclKneSL"— AclTj Wnilf JfuMtngtr. 

HEW ZEALAND, THE BBITAIN OF THE SOUTH. 

With an Appendix on the Native War in New Zealand and onr 
Fatore Native Tolic/. Bj CHAS. HURSTHOUSE. Second 
Edition, tiiorooghlj levised and conected, post 8vo. nith two 
Coloored Maps, price ISa 



.._., „, .- — i «> there, and how imd 

HlUe. sad what Co do irben tliers. tbli Is the book of hooka. There ii 






to HtUewlHlj ud well."— Cotly Bern. 

COLONIAL POLICY and HISTORY -REVIEW of 

" THE COLONIAL FOLICT OF LOKD J. RUSSELL'S 
ADMINISTRATION, BY EAHL GREY, 1853,'" and of SUB- 
SEQUENT COLONLA.L HISTORY, bj the Bight Hon. Sir C. 
B. Abubblet, E.C.M.G., M.P. Demj 8to. clolii, 9t. 
" The eppearuice or thla voIdiha ie fiitTAmely oppartime * * *. A Compledc 
Smnmery o! oui recent Colooinl Bl>toi7."~£iluiWvA Bitita. 

BEITAIN and HER C0L0HIE8. ByJ.B. Hublbubt, 

M.A., LL,D., Member of the Convocation of the University of 
ToroDlo, Canadian CominiHeioner and Juror at the lotenutional 
Exhibition, London, 1862, &c. Demy 8vo. cloth, 10*. 

between "firitUnuid her Ccdoniai," uid nKDDiineadUfortbsmoiteirneit mii- 
elderulon of ill time who uv engaged la tbe develapraeat of the weeUh of the 
leHm.-'-Biiri Wailf Meuager. 

OUR RELATIONS with the COLONIES and CROWN 

COLONIES. An Attempt of the Faisage between Scylla and 
Cbarybdis. With some Remarks on Pilots. I'l-ice It &J. 
COLONIES and EMIORATION.— A Liat of BOOKS 
B'ld MAPS on the BRITISH COLONIES, &c may be had 
GralJB on spplicatioii.or perpost forone statnp. 

jMvaos : EDWARD STANFORD, 6 & 7, Cbabino Cboss, S.W. 



MAPS. 

AUSTBALASIA. 
STASPOBD'S LIBKABT KAP of AUSTKAIASIA. 

Scale, 64 miles to an inch ; size, E5 incbes bj SS. Thia Map deli- 
neates the Cokmiea of New South Wales, Victoria or Fort FUIlip, 
8ontli AnatrallB, Queensland, and Western Australia, divided into 
Counties ; with all the Discoveries of Burke, Wills, Stuart, Ore- 
gory, and others. Tasiukia and Nbw Zealand are shown in 
their relative position to Australia, and the latter contains va- 
tioDB impioTemeDtB over former Maps. New Caledoijia, New 
GtJiirKA, and adjacent parts of the Asiatic Abchifbi^oo, are 
also included. Coloured and Mounted on Linen, in Morocco Cas^ 
£3. 13« 6di at, on Boiler, Varnished, £S. ; SpriDg Boiler, £fi. 
ATJSTEALIA. 

STAHTORD'S H£W HAP of AUST&ALU : com- 
piled from the latest add most anthentic Documents, embracing 
all the recent SDrre^s of Mosars. Burke, Wills, Giegorj, Stoart, 
McEinlaj, Walker, and others. Scale, 64 miles to an inch ; size 
48 inches bj 44. On Two Sheets, Fall Coloured, Bis ; Uonnted 
on Linen, in Case, 35«i or, on Boiler, Varnished, SOs. 

HAP of ATTBTBAIiIA, ebowing the Frorinces and 
ConntieB, Towns, Villages, &c Scale, 66 miles to an inch; siie, 
42 inches by 34. Price, Coloured and Moouted on Linen, in 
Case, or on Roller, Varnished, 9s. 

AUSTRALIA.— Stanford's Map of tlie AuBtralian Colo- 
nies. Scale,135milesto aninch I sue, 28 inches by 17. Coloured 
and folded in Cover, Is 6d ; Monnted on Unen, in Caw, 3s 6d. 



VICTORIA.— A Kew Map of the Province of Victoria, 
showing all the Boads, Kirera, Towns, Counties, Gold Diggings, 
Sheep and Cattle Stations, &c. Scale, 20 miles to an inch ; size, 
31 inches b; SI. In Sheet, 2a 6d; Mounted, in Case, 4s ed. 

(JUEBNSIiAND.— Stanford's New Map of Queensland ; 
showing all the latest Discoveries from Private and other Sources, 
with the Agricultural Districts aad Gold Fields clearly defined. 
Scale, 64 miles to an inch. Size, 23 inches by IB. Jn Sheet, 
Coloured, 2< Sd ; Mounted on Linen, in Case, 4j 6d. 

QUEENSLAND. — Ham's New Map of Queensland, com- 
piled from the most authentic and recent Public and Private Sur- 
veys, showing the Squatting Districts sjid Explorers' Routes, with 
the valuable Discoveries <a Londsbomugh, Walker, Burke, and 
Wills. ' Scale, 40 miles to an inch. Size, 26 inches by 83. Sheet, 
Coloared, 7i ; Mounted in Case, ICU ; B«ller, Varnished, I2i Gd. 

LoHDOF : EDWARD^STASFOED, 6 and 7, CHiamo Ckobs, S.W. 

D,g,t,ioflb,Google 



NEW ZEALAND. 
HAP OF NEW ZEALAND; coDstructed from the 

most recent Offldal DoComents. Scale, 95 miles to sn inch. 

Size, 12 inches by 34. Price, Calonred and Moanted on TJnen, 

in Ctue, or on Bailer, Varoished, 9«. 
STANFORD'S HAP OF NEW ZEALAND: Compiled 

from the moBt recent Docaments. Scale, 64 miles to an inch. 

Size, 17 inches by 19. Full Coloored, in Sheet, 2s ; Moanted 

on IJnen, in Case, 3j 6d 
POCKET HAP OF NEW ZEALAND; Size, 17 iDcbea 

by 14. Coloared and folded in Cover, \i ; or Moanted on Linen, 

in Case, it 6d. 

CANADA. 
STANFORD'S MAP of CANADA, New Brunawick, Nova 
Scotia, Prince Edward and Breton Islands, extendiag from t^e 
Gulf of St. Lawrence to laka Superior, inclsding the adja^eat 
parts of the United States, from New York to Chicago, with the 
Railways, BoOds.and Canals. Second Edition Scale, 29) milea 
to an inch. Size, 60 inches by 33. Four Sheets, 12s ; Mounted on 
Linen, in Ca»e, 1S« ,- on Roller, Varniahed, 25a,- also in separate ■ 
Sheeta, Si6d; in Case, 5i each- 

CANADA. — Upper and Lower Canada, with tlie Eail- 
waye. Maps of these Provinces. Scale, 26^ mileg to an inch. 
On two Sheets, 17 inches by 15 each. Folded, li ed ; Uoonted 
on Linen, in Case, 3j 6d. The lams Map can also be hod with the 
Map of Nova Scotia and New Brunanick. Moanted on Linen, 
in C«se, 6t 6d. 

DNITED STATES. 

STANFORD'S NEW RAILWAY AND COUNTT HAP 

OF THE UNITED STATES AND TERRITORIES, 

together with Canada, New Brunswick, Nora Scotia, and the Ontf 
of St Lawrence. Scale, 54) miles to an inch. Size, 57 inches 
W S6. Two Sheets, ColouTed, Sli; Mounted on Liaen, in 
dase, S5i ; Rollers, Yaraisbed, 30f . 

STANFORD'S SMALLER RAILWAY MAP of the 

UNITED STATES ; distinguishing the Unsettled Territories, tha 
Bailways, Citiea and Towna according to the Population, oLio the 
State Capitals and Connly Towns. Scale, 120 milea to an inch. 
Size, 29 inches byHJ. Two Sheets, Coloured, 4j erf; Mounted 
on Linen, in Case, G( 6d. 

LoKDOH : EDWABD STANFORD, 6& 7, Chabimq Cboss. S.W. 



D,g,t,ioflb,GoOglc 





^essasai^ 


i LIST OF 


BOOKS / ' 


PDBLISHGD 


BY 


EDWAED STANFOKD, 6 and 7. CHARTNG CROSS. 


LONDON, 


S.-W. 


AGENT, BY APPOINTMENT, FOB THE SALE OF THE ORDNANCE AND GEOLOGICAL 
SURVEY PUBLICATOKS, OD THE ADMIRALTY CHABT8. 




C 

DMn;.:„G00glc C 





OONTEKTS. 



BooEB, Alpbasetical Libt or 

Bbitibh Armt, Sketches or Bbitibh Soldibbh .. 

Oedbakcb Sdbvbt Publications, &c 

National Mastscriptb 

Obdnafoe Tbiookombtbical StrBvar or thb United Kinodok 

Photogkaphb op Sinai 

Pai;e8tinb EsPLOBATioN Fund Photoqbaphb 
Pampelets 



D,g,t,ioflb,GoogIe 



OctAer, 1869. 

LIST OF BOOKS 



EDWARD STANFORD, 
e and 7, caAsnra oboss, London, s.w., 

NT, BY APPOISTHENT, FOR THE BAIE OF THE OBDNA.KCB MAPS, 

GEOLOoicAi anavar maps, and ADmaALiT chabts. 



ADDERLEY CBir C.).-EEVIEW of "THE COLONIAL 
POLICY of LORD J. RUSSELL'S ADMINISTRATION, BY" 
EARL GKEY, 1853," and ol SUBSEQUENT COLONIAL HIS- 
TOKY. By the Right Hon, Sir 0. Addehlbt, MJ. Part I.— Culonies 
with RepreabDtatiTb Goveruments. Demy tJTO, boards, 2a. ijd. 

DITTO. Parts II. and HI. [Preparinj. 

AITDUirS (Baron) OAAMHAS and EET to tiie OESMAK 
LANGUAGE : Being hq eaBj and complete System for acqnlring 
this useful tongne: with ProgreBaire Eiareisea, 4e. By thu Baroh 
Vos AsBLAU, Director of the GCTman. Freuch, and Classieal College, 
ClaphMQ Ri^, London. Fourth Edition, revised and greatly enlargal. 
Domy 12ma, 3i. 6<i. cloth. 

GEBMAK BEADING BOOK: Containing SentenceB, De- 

KriptioDB, Tales, aod I'oetry, with the necesBBir ££plaaati<«H in 
Eoglish, for the Use of Schools, Private, aod Self Iiistruotioa. First 
Course. Demy 12mo, 3i. 6(j. cloth, 

EtEKHAN EEADINO BOOK. Sooond Oonise. Demy 

12mo, cloth, 4s, 6<t 

ATLASES. See Special Catalogue of Atlases, Maps, and 
Globe*. 

BAILET, — CENTEAL AMEEICA: Describing each of the 
States of Guatemala, Honduras, Salvador, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica 
—their Natural Features, Products, Population, and remarkable 
capacity for Colonization. Witli Three Views. Cloth, 5t. 

BEAUVOISIN'B CHariot de) EEENCH VEEB8 at a OLAKCE : 
A Summary of the French Verbs, embracing an entirely New Bysleni 
of Conjugation, by which tho forms of any French Verb may be 
ascertained at a ghince, together with numerous Practical lUustratlonB 
of their Idiomatic Construction, copious Notea, and a Uat of the 
Principal Verbs. New Edition, Sixteenth Thousand, enlarged and 
entirely rerfrilten. Demy 8vo, price U. 

EDWABS BTANrOBD, S ft 7, OHABINa OBOSS, S.W. 



BEAUVOISHTft (Muiot de) COLLECTIOH of ABBCDOTES 

and STORIES in FRENCH : Interspersed with Epigrams, Bon-Moti, 
Bepartees, MHiima, 4o. In Pmso and Veree, with an Eiplanation of 
the DiBcult Wordi, Phrases, and Idiuma, at the end. Post Svo, cloth, 

FIS8T BOOK of GIL BLAS: Arranged for StfodaitB of 

the French Ijanguage, Witli an Introductory Engliali Verbal Col- 
lateral TranaUtion, and nmneraus Giammatiral and Idinmatical Notes, 
eiplaining the DiMcalties of the Tezl. New EdiUon. Demy 8vo, 
U.6d. 
BOILAERT (Wm.).-The WABS of SUCCESSION of FOBTU- 

GAL Bud SPAIN, from WIS to 1840 : Conlaining an Account of 
the 9ie°;e of Oporto, 1832-3 ; ReminisceneeB, Polilical, Military, io. ; 
with Re'sum^ of Political History lo the Present Time. By William 
BOLLAEHT, F.R.O.8., Corr. Mem. Univ, Chile ; Ethoo. 8ocs.. I»ndoa, 
New York, &e. With Map and IllostiatioDa. 2 Tola, demy 8vo, cloth, 
80a [Preporinj. 

B00E-KZEPnrG.--TH0'D'OHTS on BOUBLE ENTBY and 
BALANCE SHEETS. Addressed tnore particularly to Shareholden 
in Joint Stuck Campanies. Post 8vo. cloth. [^Freparing. 

B0TTL0Oir£.-OUII>E to BOTTLOaiTE and iti ENVIB0N8. 
With Maps and lUostraliong. Demj 12mD, cloth, 2s. 6d. 

BBABLET (Lonsdale, F.O.S.).— An ENQUIBT into tbe DEPO- 
SITION of LEAD ORD in the MINERAL VEINS of SWALE- 
DALE, YOBEtjHIBE. With Qoological Hap of Swaledale, and 
minerona Geokigical Sections. Royal 6to, cloth, 21i; 

BBE£8.-PICT0BtAL ILLVSTBATIOITS of NEW ZEA- 
LAND. B; S. C. Brkbs, late Principal Engineer and Surveyor lo the 
New Zealand Company. Cloth, 21s. (publislied at 42f.>. 

BBITISH ABMT, The. SKETCHES OF BRITISH SOL- 
DIEBS; a Beriea of Coloole'd Prints, from the dianingB made by 
Command for Her Hajeety the Queen, by Qeoboe H. Thoku^ and 
gtacioualy lent for publication. 

The Series Comprises : 
1. Life Ouarila and Kojal Horse Guards. 

5. Dragoon Guards and Light Dragooaa. 

3. Royal Artillery. 

4. Hoyal Engineers and Military Tmin. 

6. The Guards. 

a Begimeuts of the Line. 
On Six Sheets, ^ze of each 25 iDohes by 19, price 2Ts; the set ; or, M>Id 
Wpaiately, price 5s, each. 
*f * This heautiM Series of Coloured Lithographs is printed on Saper- 
llae Tbick Paper, and can he had fMmed in any style to order. 

SDWAXD ffCAinou), a * 7, OHABnra oboss, b.w., 



BBOWNB <T. A., LL,D.).— The mTEtCSAlTT'S HAHBBOOK. 

A Book of Beference for the dm of those engaged in Domaatio and 
Foreign Commeroe. Demy 12ina, cloth, 5i. 

This work affords full &nd reimble JDformatLoii about the currencies 
and moneys of accounl^ and the weight* and meaanrea of all M\e great 
oommeroul counltiei in tho world. 

The information it contains is to a great extent official, having been 
almost wholN sapplled by Foreign HinisterB nnd Consuls in the 
tJoited Kingdom, and British Mtnieteni and Consuls abroad. 

It abows tlio Engiish and Metric values of Foreign Weighia aud 
Ueaanres. It enumerates under distinct heads the gold, silver, and 
ooppet coins oC the several countries, and gives their Sritiah valuea. 

HOKET, WEIGHTS, and HEASITIIES of the CHIEF 

GOMMEKCIAL NATIONS in the WOELD; with the British 
equivalents. Fonrth Edition. Demy 12)aa, olotb, li. Sd ; ot paper 

AEITHMETICAL EXAMPLES for MILITAEY and 

CIVIL eEBVIOE STUDEHTS: Being a Complete Treatiae on 
Arllbmetic. Consisting of the Questions that have been given at the 
Military and Civii Service ExaminalioiiB, with Bules, Solutions, and 
Answers. Demy 12ma, cloth, 5«. 
KEY to same. By Matbbs. Demy I2mo, ototh, if. ed. 

CIVn. SEHVICE TESTS in ARITHMETIC : Being 

Specimens of the more DiScalt Qneations iu the Civil Service Reports, 
with full Solntions. To which are appended the Quostiona la the 
Eleventh Bepoit, with Antwera. I>emy 12mo, eloth. 2f. 64. 
AEITHMETICAL aUESTIOKS in the Bth CIVIL SEE- 
VICE BEPOBT, WITH SOLUTIONS. Demy Igmo, 1«. 

CIVIL SEEVICE GUISE to HIBTOHY imd aEOORAFHT. 

Fait I., being the Historical Questions in the Civil Service Beports. 
Arranfred under the aereral Periods and Bagna to vhich they belung. 
Demy 12mo. cloth, 2e. Gd. 

SmO. Part IL, being the Geographical Qneetiona in the 

Civil Servioe Reporla, showing thoie that reter to the different Countrleii. 
Demy 12wa, Si. 

8PECIMEH8 of HAJMltWAITlNO; Approved by the 

civil Servioe OotmniffiioueiB. Demy Svo, 2d, 

CAFPER.-ATIBTEALIA, as a FIELD for CAPITAL. SKILL, 

and LABOUB, with Useful Information for (Migrants of all ClBesea. 
By Jomr Cappeb, lale Editor of 'The Emigrant's Journal,' Anthor of 
'Ooi Gold Colonies,' &c 1». 

WHOUBALB A2FD BBTAIL BOOK AHD XAP BBXAHB. 



CHAPHAV (Jamei, F.a.G.S.)-TBATELB in the mTEEIOB 

of SOUTH AFBICA, coaprimng Fiftten Yeats' UuntlneBud Trading 
Experiences; with Journejs aciosa tlie Continent finm Natal ta 
Walvisch Bay, and Visita to I-ake Ngami and Vittotia Falls. With 
Maps and numerous EagiaTiugs. 2 toIb. dem; Svo, cloth, S2a. 

CHEBfULOVD'S (Prof. J.) BOOK of TEKSIONB ; or, Guide 

to Freiioti Tmnslation and ConBtructioo. New Edition, revised. Bj 
Ftof. C. J. Dbullb, late of the Cit; of London School. Demj 12iiio, 
3t. 6d. bound. 

KEY to the ABOVE. - PARTIE FEANCAISE da 

UVKE de VERSIONS; ou. Guide ti la Traduction 'de I'AngUJa 
en Fiangais. B; ProC C. J. Delille. Demj 12nio, 3i. Gd. bound. 

CHBOKOLOOICAI FICTUBEB of EHGLI8H HtSTOBT, 
from the ANCIENT BRITONS to the Reign o! QUEEN VIC- 
TORIA. A Series of 4U Plates, containing bGO IlluBtiationfl, beuuti- 
fully tinted. Deaigned and Drawn on Stone, by John (iiLBERT. The 
P Btes are accompanied with Tabular Sheets of Letterpiesa, carefully 
compiled ; each Plate illustmtesa period o . .» ■. ^.. .i- 

the Auto^raphsof the gorereigns and them 
are attached^ Imperial folio. 



CIJHlflNO'B (Bev. J. Q.) OTJIDE to the tSLE of HAH, ita 

Appruncbes. and Places of Resort, with numeroua Walks, Drives, and 
Excursions ; its History, Geology, Botany, &c., Ac. By the Rev. J. G. 
CcHMiNQ, M.A., F.G.S, Vice-Principal of King William's College, 
Caatletovin. With Map. Fcap. Svo, cloth, 4s. 6d. 

SALLT (F. F.).-ainDE to JERSEY and OUEBITBET; with 

Notes on Iheir History, Geology, Climate, Agriculture, Laws, iSc. By 
F. F. Dally, Esq., Author of an ■ Easay on the Agriculture o( the 
Channel IblaniiB.' Third Edition. With Maps. Fcap. Svo, cloth, 
3f , Gd, ; or separately, vie, Jersey, 2a. ; Guernsey, 2$. 

SAMOH (Robert). -CHTIDE to the OEOLOaY OF WEY- 
MOUTH and the Island of Portland : containing a Map of the District, 
Geological Sections, Coast Views, Figures of the characteristic Fossils, 
and other Blustratione : with numarous Notes on the Botany and 
Zoology of the Coast and Neighbourhood, Fcap, Svo, cl(ith, 5s. 

A Supplement to the above, consistiog of Nine LilJiographio Plates 
of Fossils, drawn by BoHB, 2i. Gd. 

BDWASD STANFOBD, 6 & 7, OBABJsa GBOSS, B.W., 



BEMP8ST.— Oim OCEAS HiaEWAYS. A GONDET^SED 
ALPHABETICAL OAZBTTEEB AND TRAVELLERS' HAND- 
BOOK BY RAIL AND SEA, for all Chiof Cities and Noted Pl&ces 
throughout tbe World ; giving also tbo latest Stalietical and C immerciol 
information about the yaiious Porta of Departure and of Cull (xinnected 
with the Great Ocean Steam Liuea of Europe and America, with 
THhulBi Lists of Chief Offices, Hates of Passage, Dntee of Sailing, 
togetLcT villi i'elegraphic, Monetazy, and other Tables. By J. 
ALiuaicE pEUFBEi, Crown 8to, cloth, di. 

EAST IVDIA CIVIL SERVICE EXAHIVATIOH PAPEES, 

for 1867, 1866, 1S65, 1864, 1S60, 1859, Fcap. folio, 2s. 6d. each. 
Further Examination Papers. 1863. Foap. folio, 2«. 6d. 

EAST X^BSSOKS in EREKCE C0F7ERSATI0N, adapted to 
the tt^ica generally inleieating to Schoolboys. Dtni; 12!no, li. Gd. 
cloth. 

ETIENVE'S LITTLE BOY'S PIS8T FRENCH BOOK: 

Oil the plan of Arnold's Ivory's First Lattn Book. Second Edition. 
Demj 12mo, 2>. 6d. doth. 

FOSTER (A. F.),-HAKTrAL of GEOORAFHICAL PROinnir- 

CIATION and ETYMOLOGY. By A. F. Fosteb, A.M.. Author of 

'A General Treatise on Geography, and other Educational Works; 

late Editor of ' CShambers's Educational Course ; ' Asdistant-Commis- 

wonerto the Royal Edooation Inquiry, 4c. Fifth Edition, Fcap. 12mo, 

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