Vienna bread : instructions and recipes

LIBRARY

THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA

SANTA BARBARA

FROM THE LIBRARY
OF F. VON BOSCHAN

LIBR&fflT

VIENNA BREAD:

INSTRUCTIONS * RECIPES.

BY

CHARLES & JAMES SCOTT.

Xon&on :

THE "BAKER AND CONFECTIONER," LTD.,
61 & 62, CHANCERY LANE, W.C.

1909.

Printed by
'HAMPTON & CO.,

12-13,

Cursitor St.,

London, E.C.

*

CONTKNTS.

PAGE.

PREFACE. 5

CHAP. I. — INTRODUCTION 9

„ II. — FLOUR . . . . . . . . 12

„ III. — MILK, FAT, YEAST .. • • 17

„ IV. — OVENS AND STEAM . . . . 24

„ V. — METHODS : SPONGING . . . . 31

„ VI. — METHODS : STRAIGHT DOUGHS,

FERMENTS, ETC. . . . . 36

„ VII. — MATURITY OF DOUGH . . . . 44

„ VIII. — MAKING UP LARGE ROLLS . . 48

„ IX. — MAKING UP SMALL ROLLS . . 56

„ X. — BAKING THE ROLLS . . . . 73

XL— MISCELLANEOUS 81

PRBKACE.

I HAVE been asked by the authors of this book
to write a Preface to it, and I have no hesi-
tation in responding to such a reasonable
request. I do so with all the more pleasure because,
in my opinion, the matters treated of in this book
are of the very greatest practical importance to the
baking trade. The baker, so far as the ordinary
varieties of bread are concerned, differs from most
other manufacturers in not being able to expect any
increased demand for the goods which he supplies.
The growing prosperity of the country — and we have
increased enormously in wealth during the last twenty
or thirty years — has led to a largely increased demand
for most commodities, and the manufacturers of
those commodities have had with them all along the
great advantage of an expanding market. With the
baker, so far as household bread is concerned, the
case is entirely different. Exact figures are unfor-
tunately wanting, but there is no doubt that the per
capita consumption of bread has sensibly diminished.
When the first Bread Act was under discussion it was
stated that three-fourths of the population lived
almost entirely on bread. That remark was probably
quite true at the time it was made, but we have
travelled a long way since then, and the facts are
now entirely different. Well-to-do people eat very
little bread, and even the working classes, so far as
the adult members are concerned, are not the heavy
consumers they once were. The children are still
there, and big families still mean a large consumption
of bread. But there is no elasticity in the demand
for the baker's chief commodity, and a great deal of
the excessive competition about which bakers are

6 PREFACE.

continually complaining is due to this unpleasant
but significant fact. When we come, however, from
household bread to those fancy varieties which may
be roughly classed as Vienna Bread, the case is quite
altered. Here the baker may find an expanding
market and abundant possibilities for the future.
People who won't eat bread simply because it is the
cheapest food will eat it if it appeals to their palate.
Bread as one of the necessities of life is on a largely
reduced footing ; bread as one of the luxuries of the
table has a great future in front of it. It is to be
noted that there is already a certain vague sort of
demand for these fancy varieties of bread. One is
almost tired of hearing people, after a few weeks'
experience of foreign hotels, complain that they
cannot get in England " the delicious bread we find
on the Continent." Of course they can get it, but
they cannot get it easily enough or readily enough,
and so go on grumbling at the household bread and
eating as little of it as they can. The leading restau-
rants and hotels are quite alive to this, and do not,
as a rule, offer their customers slices or chunks of
household bread. Their fancy bread is not always
of the best, but, at any rate, the fact is recognised
that people do for the most part prefer these fancy
varieties. What people like abroad they like at
home, and there seems no reason why Vienna Bread
should not be regularly found on the tables of most
well-to-do or fairly well-to-do households. And let
the trade just consider what a possibility this opens
out of increased business and increased profit.

Only this bread must be the real thing, and not a
mere pretence. The warning with which our authors
have opened their work is emphatically necessary.
There seems to be an impression in some quarters
that fancy shapes are all that is necessary to develop
a trade in fancy bread. The public is not going to
be beguiled in that way. If a trade is to be built

PREFACE. 7

up in Vienna Bread, it must be built up by bread
which is nice to eat and not merely pretty to look at.

The development of the Vienna Bread business
is again of immense importance from the journey-
man's point of view. The introduction of
machinery has displaced a large amount of labour,
and there is no increased demand to find occupation
for those who are thus thrown out of work. The
journeyman's organisations are pressing on with
their Hours of Work (Bakehouses) Bill, not only
and not so much because they object to long hours,
but chiefly because they cherish the hope — which
will probably turn out to be delusive — that the
shortening of hours will provide occupation for the
men now out of work. Let the trade consider what
an immense amount of fresh employment would be
found by the development on a large scale of a
trade in Vienna Bread. Let them calculate on the
basis, say, of ten sacks converted from household
quarterns to Vienna Bread, and see what a difference
it would make in wages to workmen and in profit
to masters.

Probably what we have said above has already
occurred to a good many bakers. Yet the field
which promises such a fertile crop remains to a large
extent unoccupied. That this is so is probably due,
not so much to lack of enterprise as to want of proper
knowledge. It is this want which this book is in-
tended to supply. It has been written throughout
with the most rigid attention to practical require-
ments, and practical bakers will be at no loss in under-
standing the directions given. The names on the
title-page are pseudonyms. The authors do not
desire to disclose their identity, but it may be said
that they are both thoroughly practical men, and
have for a long time past been engaged in turning
out the goods which they describe in these pages.
The object of the book is twofold : it is intended

8 PREFACE.

in the first place to help those who are already
making Vienna Bread, to suggest to them new
varieties and improved methods of working. But it
aims also at popularising Vienna Bread with the
trade, and at inducing bakers to take up a branch of
business which will give satisfaction to their
customers and bring profit to themselves. How
far this second result is likely to be attained I won't
pretend to prophesy, but if in this respect the book
meets any great measure of success, its publication
will form an event in the history of the trade, and
the authors will be able to congratulate themselves
on having rendered the most substantial service to
the calling to which they belong.

EDITOR, "BAKER AND CONFECTIONER."

VIENNA BREAD.

Chapter I.

INTRODUCTION.

VIENNA bread is not now so popular in this
country as it was a few years ago, and
the reason for this probably is that the public
knows now what to expect when it asks for this
article. You can humbug the great British public
for a time, but sooner or later — generally sooner
— it (like your sins) finds you out. The British
public has found that the Vienna bread it has
been buying generally has been a delusion and a
snare, and to a great extent it steers clear of it now.
It is unfortunate that the British baker should lose
any chance of turning an honest penny, but when
we say that in many places Vienna bread is nothing
more than a piece of tin loaf dough shaped long,
hacked with a knife, baked, and smeared over with
bill-stickers' paste, then the only wonder is that the
great B.P. did not find it out long ago.

But what is Vienna bread ? Let us give a definition.
Vienna bread is to common bread what the light
Continental confections are to solid slab cake and
plum pudding. It is not a bread fit for appeasing the
appetite of a farm labourer. It is the bread of breads,
with a sweet milky nuttiness about it which makes
one think involuntarily of golden wheatfields and

io VIENNA BREAD.

lowing kine. It is that bread which makes one
wonder how the baker can put such a grand flavour
of butter in without the bread in any way feeling
heavy or greasy. It is bread with a soft creamy
crumb and a glossy golden crust, with a crispness
about it that is absent in all other breads. It is the
bread you can eat when you have no appetite ; it is
the bread you buy from the baker when you have
plenty of bread in the pantry ; in fact, it is the bread
that once eaten will always be eaten.

Now, it needs no comment of ours to bring home
to the average baker the fact that there is very little
bread answering to the above description on sale
anywhere, and that is exactly what we want to
emphasise at the commencement of this book.
To make Vienna bread to command a sale, it must
be made different from other breads, not only in
appearance, but in flavour ; and it might not be
out of place to point out that the people to
whom this bread appeals do not mind whether
the twopenny roll weighs ten, twelve, or fourteen
ounces, so long as it eats all right. This is an
age of cheapness, unfortunately, and the baker
feels that unless he gives a big chunk of bread his
customer will go elsewhere. This may be all right in
some things, of course, but when he starts on Vienna
bread he ought to take for his motto " Quality."
Unless he does this, puts in good material, exercises
every care, both in fermenting and finally working
off the dough, he would perhaps be more profitably
occupied making " pony " loaves.

The London Exhibition seldom draws out any
great samples of Vienna bread, contrary to what
might have been expected — that is, of course, in
our opinion — and so we have no ready means of
showing what good Vienna bread ought to be like.
In the following, however, we will try to explain how
good commercial Vienna bread ought to be made.

VIENNA BREAD.

ii

All the points will apply to the baker who already
possesses — or is contemplating erecting — a Vienna
oven ; but due importance will be given to the needs
of the man who may wish to try a small lot, but
who has neither the wish nor the money to build a
special oven for the purpose.

12 VIENNA BREAD.

Chapter II.

FLOUR.

THE all-important ingredient in Vienna bread,
we need hardly say, is the flour, and if the
prospective Vienna baker wants to make a
trade in this bread — or, if the expert Vienna baker
wants to keep the trade he has got — then he must
bake the best possible flour he can afford. Spare the
quality of this and you spoil the bread ; in fact,
unless you are prepared to bake good flour, your
customers will require some persuading to try a
second lot, particularly if your every-day bread
is of fairly good quality. The present writers are
fully cognisant of the conservatism of the average
British matron in the matter of bread, but she is
not yet proof against the kind of Vienna bread
we have in mind.

First of all, then, let us explode the theory that
really good Vienna bread can only be made with
Vienna flour. The reader of, these lines probably
does not require to be told about the superlative
merits of what some bakers call Vienna and others
call Hungarian or Austrian flour. Like many other
things this type of flour is not what it used to be,
although top grade still commands fancy prices ;
however, this is perhaps beside the mark. The fact
is that we have found it almost impossible to make
first-rate Vienna bread from Vienna flour alone,
although we ought to qualify this statement by saying
that this refers more particularly to the larger size
rolls — loaves, we might almost call them. For

VIENNA BREAD. 13

flavour, however, there is no doubt that a good dash
of Vienna flour, if not actually necessary, is, at least,
very desirable.

In practice, we have found that for small rolls,
i.e., horseshoe, Kaiser, etc., two parts of Vienna
flour and one part of Minnesota is hard to beat. We
are quite prepared to hear that these two flours are of
almost opposite natures, and therefore do not make
an ideal blend ; but in spite of the theory advanced
that only flours of a like nature blend well, we have
always found these two flours to work well together.
One thing about these flours is that each stands a
large quantity of water, and probably this is the reason
why we find them blending together admirably. For
the larger rolls, those weighing about a pound, we have
found that one part each of Vienna, Minnesota, and
English-milled Patent, makes an almost perfect
mixture for first quality bread. This blend produces
rolls of a quality which there can be no two opinions
about, if the goods get half a chance ; but, of course,
every baker is not able to bake first grades of these
brands. In such a case, he will still do well if he
sticks to these types and buys slightly under top
price. Referring back to good Vienna flour, we hope
it is not out of place here to say that of these flours
we have found such flours as "Victoria," " Empress,"
" E.O.P.," " Five Crowns," etc., to work splendidly.
Might we also say that grand Vienna bread can be
made from English-milled flours entirely, although,
curiously enough, some Hungarian process flour (flour
made specially for Vienna bread) we have found too
soft for our system of working. Such high-grade
flours as " Millennium," " National Choice," " As
You Like It," etc., make beautiful Vienna
bread ; and if there is a difference, it is that while
English milled flours give a crust which may be
likened unto Australian gold, a proportion of high-
grade Vienna gives an African gold tinge.

14 VIENNA BREAD.

At any rate, the Vienna baker, or prospective
Vienna baker, in selecting a good flour or flours, must
not forget that some comparatively dear flours carry a
great deal more water than some comparatively cheap
ones, and so it ought to resolve itself into a case of
whether the dear flour does not produce more dough
by taking up extra water. We might add that in
some places the blend of flour is softer than that
given, while in others quite half the mixture is
made up of Minnesota flour. In the first case,
the bread is slightly small and close, but deliciously
sweet, while in the second case the rolls are large,
the texture approaching to that of a tin loaf, and
the flavour almost nil.

It may be taken as a general rule then that the
more strong flour in the mixture, the larger the
bread and the poorer the flavour. It need not be
assumed, however, that big rolls can be got only with
strong flour, because that is not so. What is really
wanted is a sound flour of medium strength, or a
blend answering to that description. By sound flour
we mean flour which will take a normal quantity of
water and carry it well, without going soft and
sticky.

That flour is best which, in addition to having the
good properties already spoken of, will retain its
tightness in dough during fermentation. Some flours
as fermentation goes on "fall away"'; the dough
becomes softer, so that it is necessary when making
up a second lot of dough to make it slightly tighter
than it should be ; this is not a good feature in flour
for any kind of work, and it should at least be avoided
for Vienna bread, just as the flour which grows
tighter as it ferments should also be avoided, although
we prefer this to the other. Many of these flours are
all right, of course, when blended, so it may be taken
that we mean that any blend of flour used should not
have the undesirable characteristics referred to. If

VIENNA BREAD. 15

a trade is to be built up in Vienna bread every little
drawback should be eliminated, and doubtful samples
of flour used up in other ways, because at least the
beginner will find enough worries for a little while
without adding unnecessary ones.

In first grade bread the colour of the crumb calls
for a little attention, although it is not the leading
feature of any crusty bread. In the larger rolls the
crumb colour shows up, but if a flour is used which —
with proper fermentation — gives a clean-looking
crust, the crumb colour is generally all right. The
crumb of a good flavoured Vienna roll is never white,
except possibly when fermentation has proceeded a
little too far ; cream is the ideal. Flavour should
rank first, and we might here say that although a
good deal in this respect depends on the fermenta-
tion, probably a great deal more than the average
baker thinks is dependent on the flour. Raw flour
has a flavour of its own, but the average baker
seldom thinks of tasting flour. A little experience
in the tasting of flour teaches us a good deal, although
we should not like to say it is a good and reliable
guide to what the flavour of the resulting bread
will be. One important thing, however, will be
easily detected by tasting, and that is whether the
flour is sweet ; bitterness, sourness, and fustiness
will be easily detected — much more easily detected
than in the finished loaf. Flour becomes bitter, and
sour sometimes, through age, but more often through
being stored in a comparatively warm, moist atmos-
phere, such as is often found in the flour loft above
the bakery, and this flour, although it may make
bread with a fairly good smell, will never make
sweet-eating bread : once bitter, always bitter ; once
sour, always sour. " Fustiness " may be easily
detected by tasting, but it may also be smelt easily.
Fustiness is generally the result of storing in a
damp, badly ventilated store, and never will make

16 VIENNA BREAD.

either good-smelling or good-eating bread. Do not
be deluded into believing that fustiness will "bake
out," because it will not ; and, remember also, that
the flours most liable to go wrong in the ways spoken
of are the tender, good flavoured, softer varieties.

We will not take up more space now discussing
flour, our subject is rather Vienna bread, and we do
not think — much as we should wish — we would be
justified in dilating on flour, except in so far as it
concerns Vienna bread. A few words, then, sums
up the whole subject — select the best flour you can
afford, which flour should be of all things sweet and
free from taint ; it should not be used straight from
the mill, neither should it lie in the store until it
grows hoary with age ; a creamy shade is the best
colour, and it should be tough or the reverse, just
as you wish bigger or smaller bread, the happy
medium being the ideal.

VIENNA BREAD. 17

Chapter III.

MILK, FAT, YEAST, ETC.

THE next item of importance is milk, and a
great many bakers do not appreciate what a
good proportion of milk in bread means.
The average British baker is not afraid of adding
a bit of lard and some sugar ; he knows just
what to expect from a pound of lard ; but he
has quite crude ideas on the addition of milk.
The milk comes into the bakery, but, " What a
shame it is," he soliloquises, " to use good milk in
bread." So he winks at the water tap and has a good
drink of milk to start with ; then he takes a little more
and puts it aside for his tea ; then he adds what is left,
and is displeased with the very little difference there is
between the milk and the all-water bread.

Of all milks fresh full-cream milk is the best, and
ought to be used with water in equal quantities. In
certain places on the Continent certain breads are
made with milk only, but half milk and half water
gives excellent results. We are not sure if bakers
generally have noticed the binding effects of milk.
With a large proportion of milk the bread does not
spring so well, something seems to hold it from filling
out nicely ; that is what we mean by " binding
qualities." When such a thing occurs the proportion
of milk ought to be reduced to one-third to two-thirds
water, and all such trouble will disappear, or a larger
proportion of fat should be added. If this does not
effect a cure make the dough softer, and you will

B

18 VIENNA BREAD.

have no further trouble. But, if separated milk
can be had cheap, it certainly ought to be used,
and in this way. As most people are aware, separated
milk is simply fresh milk minus the cream or butter
fat. Now, as butter fat is seldom over four per cent,
of the total milk, and very often a good deal less,
it is not an expensive job replacing it, particularly as
it is not necessary to add the same kind of fat (butter)
as was taken away. A quart of separated milk,
then, and 2 ozs. of good sweet lard or neutral fat,
make quite as good bread as does fresh milk. At
any rate, do not be deluded by the common feeling
that separated milk is thinner, and therefore that
the use of more of it is necessary, because that is
quite wrong.

Let there be no mistake : one gallon of separated
milk and 7 ozs. of fat equals one gallon of fresh new
milk. But there are other milks ready to the hand of
the baker ; the most important, because the best
known and most popular, being sweetened condensed
milk. This milk is a most desirable substance from
a hygienic, an economic, and a handy point of view.
It may be used with water alone, or in conjunction
with separated or whole cream milk, with the reserva-
tion that it must be used for what it is, and if it is
condensed separated milk fat must be added to com-
pensate for the missing butter fat, as before spoken
of. Full cream condensed milk is best, of course,
but the baker will get almost as good results with
" condensed skimmed " (separated) with the addition
of a little fat ; and he will find it much cheaper
and much more economical. It may lack flavour
to a slight extent, but the difference in cost is so
great that it becomes a question of whether the
slight difference in flavour is worth the cost. This
m2k should be used at the rate of one small tin
and 3 ozs. of fat per gallon of water, and the baker
must assume that no shortening is being added —

VIENNA BREAD. 19

that is, if he is using shortening he must not count
this. One thing worthy of note about sweetened
condensed milk ; it acts as a yeast food, so that
yeast food is undesirable, generally, when sweetened
condensed is in use.

Unsweetened condensed milk is also to be had,
but the other suits the baker so well that it is not
worth his troubling about something which will
cost him more and give him no better results. Lately,
however, a new substance, dried milk or milk powder,
has been offered the baker. This substance is sup-
posed to be the solid constituents of milk, and
should be dissolved in warm water before use. There
is no added sugar present, and to get a liquid equal
to half milk and half water about 8 ozs. to 10 ozs. per
gallon of water should be used. In buying dried milk,
contrary to the procedure referred to in buying con-
densed milk, have nothing to do with dried skimmed
milk. The writers have vivid memories of some
experience with this substance. For a new brand of
dried whole milk now on the market we have nothing
but praise, and we think it not improbable that
before long it will be widely used.

Fat.

Referring, then, to fat, it is most important that a
little of this should be used, but its addition should
never be allowed to interfere with the sweetness
of the flour. If the public wants bread, give it bread ;
if it wants cake, let the confectioner attend to that.
Speaking of fats, then, the fat par excellence is butter ;
but although this is used in some places, we hardly
think the result warrants the cost incurred. We have
no hesitation, then, in saying that where butter is
used, either the trade in Vienna rolls is a very high-
grade one, or the parties using it are very stupid.
Most excellent results are got by using half margarine
and half good lard, or half margarine and half

20 VIENNA BREAD.

of any of the very fine neutral fats now adver-
tised. Some bakers think butter gives the roll a
really grand rich flavour, but in the proportion in
which it is used it is hard for the present writers to
believe that any other sweet fat with a proportion of
margarine will not do quite as well. We seldom use
butter, and we make some high-grade bread too. When
adding fat, allow f oz. of salt to all saltless fats ; and
if you should be using butter and wish to change,
allow only 13 ozs. of fat against every pound of butter,
because even in good butter there is about 3 ozs. of
salt and water in every pound. We would like to
impress this on bakers generally : it is no advertise-
ment puff to sell a butter substitute ; it is a statement
of simple fact. The semi-legal standard for good
butter allows sixteen per cent, of salt and water,
which is over 2.\ ozs. per lb., but 20 per cent, is common
and 25 per cent, (or 4 ozs. per lb.) is not unknown,
while poor vilified margarine has seldom more than
8 per cent. Lard also has a very small proportion
of water and no salt, and some of the fine and
cheap substitutes may be said to be water free.
Whatever fat is used, however, should be made
very soft before adding to the dough. Some
bakers melt their fats, and although there is much
to be said for this method, it most certainly ought
not to be followed if butter is used, because if
butter is used it is to get flavour. The flavour of
butter depends, among other things, upon the presence
of certain substances that are easily volatilised by
even moderate heat, so it is reasonable to suppose
that less flavour is got in the bread if the butter is
previously heated — this is an undoubted fact. The
same applies to margarine, but in a lesser degree.
Don't melt these fats then, soften them with moderate
heat and manual labour if you want to preserve
the flavour.

VIENNA BREAD. 21

Yeast.

From what has gone before, the reader will be pre-
pared to hear that for not only first grade Vienna
bread, but for all grades, we advocate the best yeast
obtainable. We know of a Transatlantic journal
which takes as its motto " The best is none too
good for the baker," and we parody the phrase by
saying " The best yeast is none too good for the
Vienna bread baker." There are several very good
yeasts on the market, particularly suitable for Vienna
work, and the baker should make it a point to be
content only with the best. The cost is nothing ; if
good yeast is used, less of it will do the work, and do
it better too. In this connection we have used the
words " particularly suitable," and we wish to explain
why a yeast is " particularly suitable." When the
reader gets the length of our processes, he will notice
that they are almost invariably short and the fermen-
tation strong. This is how we get bread with that
sweet nuttiness which is so desirable, but this can be
got only by the use of not only a vigorous but a quick-
working yeast, and yeasts vary a good deal in this
way. For Vienna bread, that is the best yeast which
brings the dough along fastest without using high
temperatures. This kind of yeast will always produce
bread of superior flavour, of greater bulk, and
generally of brighter, clearer crumb. Some bakers,
in selecting yeast, choose that yeast which, when
dissolved in water, is lightest in colour. As a matter
of fact, in this England of ours there is a district
where a milky-coloured yeast is demanded by all
bakers, and certain yeast firms, to our knowledge,
cater for this fad (for it is a fad). We don't think the
craze for white bread has got so far yet as to cause
the baker to use pale-coloured yeast, although there
is no saying where it may yet end. Meantime, the
most desirable colour in bread is a creamy whiteness,

22 VIENNA BREAD.

and we are quite confident in saying no average
yeast will interfere with that. But let our last
word be : a thoroughly sound, strong, quick-working
yeast is a most desirable article in the matter of
Vienna bread-making.

Yeast Foods and Etceteras.

On this subject a good deal of ink has been spilt
one time and another, and particularly since so many
proprietary articles have appeared. On this latter
part of the subject a great deal of cant has been written
by both buyers and sellers, and we only bring in the
seller here to assure him that many times we
have known him — (perhaps we had better say
his agents) — to make claims for his particular
article which were, to say the least, ridiculous,
and certainly were not calculated to ensure a
repeat order. If the sale of proprietary yeast foods
is to continue, they must be sold on their merit, and
merit is what sells the best known brands. It is a
simple question often asked, " Are these things any
good ? " The answer is quite as simple : they are.
If your bread is not quite the thing, a good yeast food
will increase the bulk, improve the texture, help the
crust bloom, augment the flavour, assist the colour,
and it becomes a question of, not " Is it any good ? "
but, " Can you afford to improve your bread in this
way ? " (A friend of ours, who is a great yeast food
disciple, says : " Can you afford not to use it ? ") Of
yeast foods, or bread improvers, not of the proprietary
description, the handiest is sugar — good white sugar —
and many times we have found it very good. Then
wre have our old friend malt extract — quite a desirable
commodity, to say the least ; and our younger friend
malt flour — also a very desirable commodity, and pre-
ferred by some because it is a handy dry powder.
Liquid glucose is not unknown, but it has not much
to recommend it. Also our dear old friend the potato,

VIENNA BREAD. 23

with its confrere — scalded flour. These last three,
however, may be left out of the art of Vienna bread-
making so far as we are concerned, and we need not
further discuss them. If personal affairs are of any
particular use to the baker, then let us say that,
when using yeast food along with condensed milk
(sweetened) — which, of course, is a food itself — we
prefer malt flour. As the whole subject is a some-
what thorny one, however, we will close this
paragraph by strongly urging all bakers interested
to make tests for themselves. They will find no
difficulty in getting trial samples, and they ought
not to allow the mere cost of a good food to influence
them.

There is only one thing more we wish to say a word
on, i.e., salt. Do not believe that one salt is as good
as another. Any fine white salt, however, will do all
right, and at any rate avoid rock salt. By rock salt
we mean the salt with the rock in it. This salt is
easily known by the pieces of stone or rock which
settle at the bottom when the salt is dissolved. In a
word, such a salt is low grade and ought not to be
used in good-class work.

24 VIENNA BREAD.

Chapter IV.

OVENS AND STEAM.

AND now that we have given a few words of
advice on the ingredients used in the making
of Vienna bread, we take up the subject
of ovens as being, if not the most important
item in connection with the Vienna cult, at least
one of the most important. The most apparent
peculiarity of good Vienna bread is its beautiful
gloss, and this gloss is got by the action of steam
on the bread while it is baking. But if steam is to
be used at all, not only must it be in abundance,
there must be also some way of keeping the oven full
up even when the door is open. The peculiar con-
struction of the Vienna oven allows the baker to open
and close the door as he wishes, without allowing
steam to escape. The subjoined sketch, which is a
rough sketch-drawing of a hot-air, or externally-fired,
Vienna oven, will explain to those readers who have
not seen a Vienna oven, perhaps better than words.
The main idea is based upon the fact that hot gases,
being lighter than the atmosphere, always rise (this
is not quite the scientific way of saying it), and so the
lowest part of the oven crown is made lower than the
lowest part of the oven sole. This ensures that before
steam can issue from the mouth of the oven every
particle of every roll which may be in the oven at the
time must be thoroughly enveloped. Before steam
can issue from the oven mouth the oven must be full

VIENNA BREAD. 25

up in every corner. The difference between the
Vienna oven and the ordinary bread oven will be at
once apparent. When the oven door of the latter
is opened, all the steam escapes, except a little,
which lies above the level of the top of the door.
Reference to the sketch will show that the sole is
slanted. This becomes necessary in order to keep the
oven full of steam down to the sole : it comes in very
handy, however, when drawing small rolls, as the
merest touch makes them trundle right out of the oven

L,3ht

Door

Quo'1

without further trouble. One thing more about the
Vienna oven — it must not be high crowned, because a
good sound heat is necessary first of all ; but,
secondly, the steam present in the oven reduces the
temperature greatly, and both science and experience
has taught us that in such a case the source of heat
must be brought pretty close to the object to be
heated or baked if economy is to enter into the
problem. Different builders have different ideas, of
course ; but the main idea is not to allow a thick

26 VIENNA BREAD.

cushion of steam between the source of heat and the
rolls. As to what type of oven is the best for Vienna
bread, it would be difficult to say. We have seen
excellent results from a steampipe oven (Vienna
type) with the usual iron sole, and we have seen
excellent results got from the hot-air type with tile
soles. Also we have seen some of the finest Vienna
bread it has been our pleasure to handle baked in a
side-flue oven (Vienna type) — that is, a side-flue oven
with the sole slanted as it is in the sketch on page 25.
One particular thing we like about this type of oven
is that, when desirable or necessary, the main flue
damper may be drawn out. The drawing of the main
flue damper in this case is a different thing from
what it is in the other types, because in^the former
case it only affects the fires, while in the latter case
it affects, in addition, the condition of the atmosphere
of the oven, which is a most important thing : readers
generally know enough about the design of a side-flue
oven to understand what we mean. Under the head
of " Baking," however, we will be able to better
discuss the matter. As to utilising the ovens at each
reader's convenience a good deal might be said, but
this also we will be in a better position to treat on
under the head of " Baking." What we are chiefly
concerned about now is the typical Vienna oven
with its necessary supply of steam. We may be taken
as saying, then, that if much bread is to be made a
Vienna oven with a proper steam supply will not only
give best and most regular results, but it will also be
found most economical. We favour a tile sole,
but we are also quite prepared to agree that an iron
sole does very well indeed. The small damper on
patent oven in sketch we shall refer to under " Bak-
ing," and meantime we have a few words to say on
steam. We would specially draw the reader's
attention to the damper handle as being very handy
where dampers — as in Vienna ovens — are set high :

VIENNA BREAD. 27

to start this damper you pull the handle, which
works on a pivot.

The small damper could be easily arranged to
be worked from the front of the oven and this
would be very handy.

Steam.

A good deal of nonsense has been written about
steam in connection with Vienna bread - making,
at one time and another, but happily we are
progressing towards the light. Some bakers in days
gone by advocated low pressure for boiler steam,
while others, more advanced (save the mark !), sought
to show how equally good results could be got by
either 6 Ibs. or 60 Ibs. pressure ; while later, we had the
advocate of the happy medium. What may, for
convenience sake, be called the low-pressure bakers
denounced high pressures, because in such cases
they said the steam is " dry," while any novice
knows that for Vienna rolls " wet " or " saturated "
steam is the ideal. Then the high- or any-pressure
men retorted that no matter at what pressure steam
was in the boiler, when it reached the oven — when it
•emerged from the steam pipe — it was at atmospheric
pressure. The medium man then, like a second
Daniel, advanced the scientific fact that when high-
pressure steam is allowed to expand to a lower
pressure without doing work, it becomes super-
heated, or, if not actually superheated, the water
with which it is saturated becomes steam and, there-
fore, if we don't actually get superheated steam, we
get dry steam. Now, it has been asserted that
steam condenses on the cold rolls ; in fact, most
people are agreed that that is so, but if that is the
prime cause of the glaze, we cannot see why dry
:steam will not condense quite as readily as satu-
rated steam, because as often as not dry steam

28 VIENNA BREAD.

issuing from a pipe — and particularly if the pressure
is moderately high — is cooler than low-pressure
saturated steam. The truth is, however, that the
glazing is not catised so much by the steam as by the-
water mechanically mixed with the steam. Let us
explain. Suppose you dip your finger in water — you
wet it, of course ; touch a piece of dough then, and
you leave some of the water adhering. It is the same
with steam. Steam is made in that part of the
boiler where the fire strikes ; it rises through, and
out of, the water, and, like your finger, is wetted ;:
it is very easy to imagine, then, that the many
millions of particles of steam passing off carry a
great amount of water with them. The particles
of steam are wet ; they are said to be saturated
when we think of them collectively as an elastic fluid
called steam. Immediately the steam comes in
contact with the cool dough it is said to be con-
densed, but it is really the water that is deposited
which wets the loaf most. If corroboration of this
be necessary, we have only got to look carefully inside
the oven, and we will see moisture deposited on iron-
work which may be easily 100° hotter than the
steam, and we need hardly add that it is impossible
to think of steam condensing under such conditions.
In a practical matter like this, such things may
be unimportant, but we are trying to make it clear
that steam generation for Vienna rolls may be — in
fact, is — quite a different thing from steam generation
for power purposes. What may be very good in one
case, may be very bad in the other. Of course, where
steam is used as the motive force for driving"
machinery, it can very easily be utilised in the
Vienna oven. In this case, it is a very good and
common plan to have a reducing valve fitted
betwgen the boiler and the oven. Good results are
got in this way, but we fancy a small generator close
by the oven, or, failing that, we like to have the-

VIENNA BREAD. 29

boiler as near the ovens as possible. This may be a
fad of ours, but, at any rate, in our long experience we
have always got bast results in that way. Just a word
here about the steam inlet. Some bakers like a pipe,
extending the length of the oven, with innumerable
small holes, but we have always found such to be
superfluous ; a single jet extending a few inches into
the oven is all that is necessary, and if this is placed
in the corner the drips fall on a part of the oven
sole which is never used. A drip cock must be fixed
outside the oven, of course, to run off water before
turning steam on ; but even then there will be a drip
unless the steam jet is kept going almost all the
time. That part of the oven which steam enters
sometimes gets cool, and the long perforated pipe
is an idea to overcome this drawback, but it is quite
unnecessary.

And here let us say that a proper supply of steam
can only be got from a boiler or small generator.
What is wanted is a large quantity of saturated
steam, and this can be got only with the appliance
indicated. Pots of water, steam setters, and such
things are no earthly use for glazing purposes, for the
simple reason that even an ovenful of these things
would not generate a sufficient quantity of steam to
glaze rolls. If steam is not available, the rolls can still
be glazed in another way by the use of a preparation
we will describe further on ; in such a case, however, no
attempt need be made at producing steam. We
have seen tins of water run into the oven ; but unless
holes are plentiful in the bottoms of the tins, no
appreciable steam results. With perforated tins,
we get some steam, spoil the oven, and often some
of the rolls, by the water spreading and running
under them. We will conclude this dissertation on
steam by reiterating what we have already said : satis-
factory glazing steam can only be obtained from a
pressure boiler or generator, as volume is wanted ;

30 VIENNA BREAD.

also, as a Vienna oven does not require a vast amount
of steam, a high-pressure will be found quite unneces-
sary— from 5 Ibs. to 15 Ibs. will do all right — 10 Ibs.
being, in fact, quite high enough. Steam will be
further referred to when we come to the baking of
the rolls. Meantime we will proceed to explain how
they are made.

VIENNA BREAD. 31

Chapter V.

I

METHODS : SPONGING.

N writing what follows now we have aimed first
and all the time at simplicity. The careful
reader will note that in quantities given a
definite aim has been kept in view ; that aim is to put
the formulae in a way that will enable the reader not
only to grasp the details, but to remember them. In
the making up of Vienna goods (any goods, for that
matter) it is imperative that a standard be fixed to
work from so that when filling up an order some idea
may be arrived at as to how much flour, water, etc.,
is necessary ; how much of the several constituents
may be weighed up in order to have as much dough
as will make a given number of rolls. It is, of course,
quite immaterial what standard is fixed, or how and
why it is fixed on it, but the easiest way is the best,
say we, and therefore our practice is to take i qrt.
of liquor as the standard for small rolls, and i gall,
of liquor for rolls of a larger size and different mixing.
These standards wre find suit very well where small
lots only are made. When the trade is large, we
generally go by the gallon for small rolls and by the
ovenful for the larger size rolls. For convenience
sake at present we have adopted a one-gallon stan-
dard for all kinds, knowing full well that any reader
of these pages will have no difficulty in halving or
quartering the mixing for small rolls, and multiplying,
if necessary, for large rolls. This standardising will

32 VIENNA BREAD.

show in a graphic way the prime differences between
the different recipes given. In these recipes we
have purposely left out fat, to which we will refer
later, in order to save undue multiplication of recipes.
The first formula will be

SPONGE AND DOUGH, 5 HOURS (No. i).

2 qrts. water, 105° F. \

5 Ibs. flour, 68° F. [ Sponge, i£ hours.

2 ozs. yeast. J

Soften down the yeast thoroughly in the water,
then add the flour and give the whole a thorough
mixing and toughening. Make it smooth and tough,
then dust over with flour, and leave aside in a warm
place to come up and drop. The sponge will have
reached that stage in i£ hours, but let it be under-
stood the sponge is to be allowed to come up and
commence settling down again before it is taken.
In bakehouse parlance, take it on the turn, and make
into dough with the following :

2 qrts. water, 80° F. \

1 2 Ibs. flour. L Dough, 3^ hours.

3 1 ozs. salt. j

Make into a nice smooth dough, and do not be
afraid to stretch it and fold it well. At the end of
i£ hours knock it up by stretching and folding, as
distinct from punching — do not punch it. In another
hour repeat the folding, and in still one more hour
scale off. This is a total of five hours to scaling
time, but it will take at least one more hour to clear
it thoroughly after scaling and handing up. We are
great believers in giving the dough a rest after scaling
and handing before finally shaping. As a matter of
fact, the night before these lines were written this
formula was being worked off into small rolls
when the house was very cold. Well, this dough
lay on the board two hours before being finally
shaped, and afterwards took one hour to prove
before baking, or a total to oven of eight hours, and

VIENNA BREAD. 33

we do not mind saying that we do not wish for any-
thing superior to the finished goods, although the
time was abnormal. Nevertheless, we do not advise
long systems. Slow -working dough, however, has
this great benefit : when working off large quan-
tities the whole lot proves well together ; with
quick-working doughs the first of the rolls are often
ready for the oven before the last is finally shaped.
One important thing, however, should be remem-
bered : if for any reason a long system is desired,
always use a sponge process. When using a long
system we have never had as good results from
straight dough as from the sponge process.

SPONGE AND DOUGH, 4 HOURS (No. 2).

2 qrts. water, 100° F. ^|

5 IDS. flour, 68° F. [Sponge, i hour.

3 ozs. yeast.

Make up as before, giving a thorough toughening,
then dust with flour and lay aside in a warm place.
By the way, probably you are thinking, why dust
the sponge with flour ? This is a proceeding which
seems peculiar to Vienna bread bakers, and we do not
believe we could convince a sceptical English baker
that it is necessary. Some Vienna bakers assert
that the flour in the sponge loses its flavour by
evaporation, and the flour spread over the sponge
absorbs it : we think this explanation of the practice
erroneous. But the dusting keeps in the heat, and
possibly much gas, and it certainly also keeps a.
cold draught from affecting the top of the sponge :
add to this the fact that the Vienna man has studied
the appearance of dusted sponges and, therefore, is
more skilful in telling when they are exactly right,
and probably we are right in concluding that these
reasons are the real ones which go to perpetuate
a custom. Still, you know that there are more
things in heaven and earth than are dreamt of in
our philosophy, and the baker may be forgiven if in

c

34 VIENNA BREAD.

the present state of our knowledge he refuses to
take chances. Make into dough with the following :

2 qrts. water, 104° F. ")

12 Ibs. flour. I Dough, 3 hours.

3£ ozs. salt. j

Make a smooth dough by stretching and folding,
no tearing and punching, then lay aside for i£ hours.
At the end of that time fold up again and lay aside
for another hour ; repeat the operation, and in a
further half-hour scale and hand up. This dough will
be at its best when it has lain on the board fifty
minutes. Shape, then prove for about 45 minutes,
and bake. Total time, four hours to scales. In the
oven in about 5! hours.

Here, again, is another process extending over
three hours only. It is our intention to give processes
to suit everyone.

SPONGE AND DOUGH, 3 HOURS (No. 3).

2 qrts. water, 104° F. ]

5 Ibs. flour, 68° F. /-Sponge, 45 minutes.

4 ozs. yeast.

Proceed as before directed, remembering that the
yeast may be. with perfect safety, dissolved in water
at 104° F. In fact, we take it, as a rule, that yeast
will take no harm in water in which we can hold
our hands. This latter temperature borders on
120° F., which many bakers think is dangerous
to the life of yeast. We are not prepared to deny
this, although we practise it continually. Yeast,
however, must not lie long in water at so high a
temperature.

2 qrts. water, 100° F. ~|

12 Ibs. flour. vDough, 2j hours.

3^ ozs. salt.

Make up as before, then lay aside and turn in one
hour. Again turn in 45 minutes, and half-an-hour
later scale ; give 45 minutes on the board, then shape,

VIENNA BREAD. 35

prove about 45 to 50 minutes, and finally bake.
The following is a still shorter process :

SPONGE AND DOUGH, 2} HOURS (No. 4).

2 qrts. water, 100° F. ]

I^S.6^ Sponge. 30 m,nu,e,

1 oz. sugar. J

Proceed to make sponge as before. This is a very
quick sponge system, as sponge is ready in half-an-
hour. Next take the following :

2 qrts. water, 105° F. "I

12 Ibs. flour. /Dough, ij hours.

3^ ozs. salt.

Make up as before directed, and lay aside in a
comfortable place for one hour. At the end of that
time fold and stretch as already explained, and lay
aside for a further 45 minutes ; then scale, hand up,
and allow to lie for at least 45 minutes ; shape, and
prove for another 40 to 45 minutes; then bake.

36 VIENNA BREAD.

Chapter VI.

STRAIGHT DOUGHS, FERMENTS, ETC.

WE would here draw the reader's special atten-
tion to the fact that although sponging
in England is getting out of date, real
Vienna bread — i.e., bread made in Vienna — is made
on the sponge system. We do not claim super-
excellence for the system ; as a matter of fact,
wa have almost abandoned it, except for French
bread, of which, by the way, not a great quantity
is sold. Straight doughs are so much handier,
particularly for small lots, that we have no
hesitation in recommending them to the reader.
We work mostly with straight doughs and find they
suit very well. Of course, the drawback of the sponge
process, as generally understood, hardly applies here
because the sponges given are not sponges as most
bakers understand them. They are, rather, Vienna
sponges, and can hardly be said to militate against
flavour unless carelessly handled. Before going on
with some straight processes, we would like to
impress on the reader the fact that the three
processes given are what may be termed foundation
doughs. These systems may be applied to the making
of ordinary large Vienna rolls, French bread, horse-
shoes, etc., with some slight modifications to be
added immediately after we have given some more
processes.

STRAIGHT DOUGH, 5 HOURS (No. 5).

i gall, water, 105° F. 2 ozs. yeast.

17 Ibs. flour, 72° F. sf ozs. salt.

VIENNA BREAD. 37

Make a bay with the flour ; dissolve the yeast
thoroughly in about i pt. of the water, and dissolve
the salt in the remainder ; then mix all together, pour
into the bay, and proceed to make into good smooth
tough dough. Do not be all day about it, either;
but get it made, covered up, and placed away in a
comfortable corner, there to lie for two hours, when
it should be brought forth and doubled up, stretched,
and doubled again. After resting for ii hours, it should
get the same again, and in a further i| hours
it should be doubled up, scaled, and handed. In
working off this dough we have got best results by
allowing a further hour (almost) on the board
before shaping, and comparatively slow -working
stuff like this will take about an hour 1o prove,
and should not be hurried. The following is a
shorter system :

STRAIGHT DOUGH, 3^ HOURS (No. 6).

i gall, water, 100° F. $% ozs. yeast.

17 Ibs. flour, 64" F. 3f ozs. salt.

Make up as already directed for straight dough,
and lay aside for i£ hours. At the end of that time,
double up and fold as has been repeatedly directed,
and let lie for another hour. Double up again and
lay aside for a further hour, then fold up and scale.
In from 30 to 40 minutes shape and put to prove.
The rolls will be ready for the oven in about
45 minutes.

STRAIGHT DOUGH, 2\ HOURS (No. 7).

i gall, water, 104° F. 8 ozs. yeast.

17 Ibs. flour, 62° F. 3£ ozs. salt.

2 ozs. sugar (or yeast food).

Take i pt. of the liquor, dissolve the sugar in it,
crumble down the yeast into it and give a stir round.
Set this aside while you prepare the flour, and weigh
the salt ; then make up the liquor to a gallon, stir

38 VIENNA BREAD.

in the salt, and get the whole lot of ingredients into
dough in the shortest possible time. Afterwards
lay aside for one hour, fold up, and lay aside again
for 45 minutes ; fold up again at this stage and
in a further 45 minutes scale, and make up in
from 40 to 50 minutes. This is a most excel-
lent short system, and is easily split up into
quarts, I qrt. being one-fourth of the above
dough, which will yield (without additions of any
kind) at least 6| Ibs. dough. The following is a
still shorter system, but on a regular commercial
basis :

STRAIGHT DOUGH, 2 HOURS (Xo. 8).

i gall, water, 106° F. 10 ozs. yeast.

17 Ibs. flour, 64° F. 3 \ ozs. salt.

3 ozs. sugar (or yeast food).

Dissolve the yeast and half the sugar in about a
pint of the water (106° F. will not harm yeast), and
allow this to lie while the other ingredients are being
prepared ; afterwards get all together into a smooth
elastic dough as fast as possible, and lay aside in a
comfortable corner for 40 minutes, double up then,
and leave for half-an-hour more, then repeat the fold-
ing and leave for another half-an-hour. At the end
of that time, fold over again and scale in a further
20 minutes. In . half-an-hour proceed to make up
and prove. These rolls should be ready for the oven
in 30 minutes. This process (to the oven) is much
faster than No. 7, but it sometimes happens that a
small lot of rolls is wanted in a hurry, or again it
is sometimes found that enough dough has not been
made to fill all the orders ; a very fast dough in
such a case comes in very handy. It must not be
considered a regular commercial process, but is all
right for commercial work under the circumstances
described : the resultant rolls have the peculiar and

VIENNA BREAD. 39

delightful sweetness which only goes with short
process goods. Take the following :

EMERGENCY STRAIGHT DOUGH, i HOUR (No. 9).

i gall, water, 116 F. 14 ozs. yeast.

17 Ibs. flour (barley), 62° F. 3^ ozs. salt.
3 ozs. yeast food.

Give the yeast a start with some sugar, or good
reliable yeast food, as explained in No. 7 ; then make
up into smooth elastic dough, keep in a warm place,
and fold up in half-an-hour. The dough by this
time should be not less than 88° F. (a very high
temperature, only warranted by the case). In
15 minutes fold up again and scale in a further
15 minutes, or in exactly one hour from dough being
made. As soon as dough shows signs of proving, make
up into rolls and set to prove. A short time only is
necessary for this part of the process as the rolls
jump weh1 in the oven. Now, we say again that this
system is meant for particular cases only. In these
cases it will be found invaluable, and under hurrying
conditions will always give best results. It is a very
fast dough, and so unless the baker is actually waiting
on it, it is very liable to go too far unnoticed.

We have already given two completely different
series of formulae, but there is still another which
has a vogue in some places — this is ferment and
dough. Now, many readers will call our sponge
system a ferment system, and we cannot say that
it is not. When we add flour to water, say 4 ozs.
to 8 ozs. per quart (with yeast), we say that is a
ferment. But when we add, say, 4 Ibs. per quart,
we say we are making sponge. Exactly where, a
ferment leaves off and a sponge begins is a matter
of opinion, and the writers have never worried about
it, although they are inclined to say there is a pro-
portion where neither of the words properly conveys
the correct impression to the technical mind. Where

40 VIENNA BREAD.

the proportion of flour runs almost equal in weight
with the liquor, the mixture ought to go under the
name of " Batter sponge." The reader will note
that the sponges in this system belong to that ilk.
Of ferment proper, the following is a good example :

FERMENT AND DOUGH, 3^ HOURS (No. 10).
3 qrts. water, 98°^

Ferment, about 15 mins.

i oz. sugar.

Dissolve the yeast and sugar in i qrt. of the liquid,
then add the flour, stir well, and when smooth add
the rest of the water, stir vigorously, then cover up,
and allow to come up and drop. This will take about
15 to 20 minutes. Now take the following :

i qrt. water, 105° F. 15^ Ibs. flour.

3f ozs. salt.

Make a bay with the flour, into which pour the
ferment ; then dissolve the salt in the quart of water,
and with the latter rinse out the ferment bucket.
Make all up into smooth clear dough, and lay aside
for one hour. Turn then and lay aside for another
hour, fold up again, and it will be ready for scaling
in from 30 to 40 minutes afterwards. In another 30 to
40 minutes make up and prove for about 45 minutes.
This makes a very good roll but, providing the yeast
gets a start as before spoken of, there is nothing to be
gained by working thus except a small saving in yeast.
As a matter of fact, if the reader refers back to Straight
Dough No. 6, he will find this process and No. 6 do
not appreciably differ, except in this matter. Dough
from ferment, however, is perhaps a trifle livelier
than straight when the yeast for the latter has
simply been added and mixed. No amount of yeast
seems to compensate foi the want of even five
minutes in a sugary solution before making into
dough. Bearing in mind the close relationship

VIENNA BREAD. 41

between ferment and dough, and straight dough, we
feel we can occupy our space with more valuable
things than mere recipe making. We employ a regular
ferment only when yeast is working slowly, and
then we give it the full straight dough allowance.
And now we will deal with true mixings.

Until now we have given only foundation doughs.
We give now one or two little items which may be
added to any one of the previous mixings in order
to secure a particular result. There are, or at least
use, four different kinds of dough : French Roll dough,
Kaiser or Empress dough, Horseshoe or Crescent
dough, and Vienna dough. The first we will call

A, or French Roll Dough.

This is what we call an all-water dough ; in this
dough also there is no fat, simply the mixing as it is
given. This is the real dough for French long rolls.
It should be made very soft (about 15^ Ibs. flour
only per gallon) and should be folded and stretched to
make it tough — this is how the bright shining texture
and glazy holes are got ; well fermented dough — pulled
about, folded, stretched, and stretched again. But
this bread has not a great vogue in England, so we
pass on with, we hope, not undue haste, to

B, or Kaiser Dough.

This dough is made from a mixture of half milk
and half water — when fresh milk is used, or about
14 ozs. condensed milk to I gallon of water, when
such is used. Example :

STRAIGHT DOUGH (No. 6).

£ gall, water. \ ( i gall, water.

£ gall. milk. / \I4 ozs. condensed milk.

17 Ibs. flour. si ozs. yeast.

3f ozs. salt.

The small tin of condensed milk weighs fully I Ib.
gross, and for Kaiser dough we find two tins exactly

42 VIENNA BREAD.

right for 2| gallons of liquor. Then, not to dwell
too long on this subject, we have

C, or Horseshoe Dough.

This is our favourite, and is made by adding fat in
some quantity to any of the standard doughs when
making up, together with a similar proportion of milk
to that used for Kaiser dough. We discussed under
" Fat " the pros and cons of the subject so that it
only lies with us now to give the quantities. Our
favourite mix is i Ib. of good cake margarine and
i Ib. of pure sweet lard, with 3 ozs. of white sugar,
and at least i Ib. of flour per gallon of liquor half
milk (or condensed milk in proportions already
alluded to). This is a little complicated ; let us make
it clearer by adding it on to the first standard recipe
given (No. i).

HORSESHOE DOUGH.
Sponge. Dough.

I qrt. water. i qrt. water.

1 qrt. milk. I qrt. milk.

5 Ibs. flour. 1 3 Ibs. flour (fully).

2 ozs. yeast. 3^ ozs. salt.

i Ib. margarine,
i Ib. lard.
3 ozs. sugar.

The whole thing is thus made clear in this way.
We select a sponge process to show that fat, extra
flour, etc., should be added at dough stage. The
milk is shown as divided between sponge and dough,
but this is not necessary. All the milk may be added
at dough stage, but it is often more convenient to
add the milk at both stages because the water may
be drawn from the tap at a temperature to heat the
generally cold milk. With straight doughs all is
made up together, of course.

D, or Vienna Dough.

To each gallon of water is added 3 ozs. white
sugar, 6 ozs. of lard, and the proportion of salt is

VIENNA BREAD. 43

generally placed at 4 ozs. No milk is used in this
dough, although there is no reason why a small
quantity should not be added if the reader feels so
inclined. Example :

STRAIGHT DOUGH (Xo. 6).

i gall, water. 4 ozs. salt.

17 Ibs. flour. 6 ozs. lard.

5j ozs. yeast. 3 ozs. sugar.

There is more crumb in this roll, and there
is no salt in the fat. Both these things point to a
larger amount of salt, but after all, the amount
of salt must always be fixed according to the tastes
of customers ; 4 ozs. is a good sensible quantity, but
the amount should depend on customers' tastes. A
greater or less quantity will tend to retard or
hasten fermentation respectively, but in these doughs
it will be in a minor degree only.

44 VIENNA BREAD.

Chapter VII.

MATURITY OF DOUGH.

IN the preceding pages we have made it pretty
clear that a given quantity of yeast in a given
quantity of dough at a definite temperature will
always ferment at a given rate — i.e., it will make
the dough ready in a definite time. If the quantities
and heats we have given are carefully attended to
there will be no doubt about the result, but we
hasten to add that the times and heats must be
taken by the sound practical man as not infallible,
because some flours require more fermenting than
others, while yeasts vary in strength. A few prac-
tical hints, then about how the several doughs
ought to feel when ready will not be out of place.

First, it might be well to revert again to the
mixing of dough, because a healthy fermentation can
only be obtained in properly mixed dough.

We have found that Vienna dough can be best
made by machinery ; that is, the amount of labour
required in making up a fair sized dough is best
furnished mechanically. Excellent dough can be,
and is, made by hand, but under modern commercial
conditions, machine-made dough is best. It is not,
of course, necessary to call in the aid of machinery
to the making of small lots, but in whatever way
dough is made, it must be made thoroughly. Dough
when properly made should feel smooth and tough,,
and the baker ought to be able to take a small piece
and stretch it out with his fingers into a thin square
skin through which it will be almost possible to see.

VIENNA BREAD. 45

When this dough lies a little while it commences
to rise, but a great deal cannot be learnt from the
height to which it rises, for the good and sufficient
reason that it must not be allowed to rise much ; in
that direction lies coarseness of texture and crumb-
liness. First of all, then, to describe the " feel "
of a straight dough. Let us take No. 6, as it is a
medium long dough (3^ hours). This dough first of
all will get soft, then it will rise ; at the end of i£
hours, when it is handled, it will feel a little lively,
but the gas will be easily knocked out. When it is
folded over, however, it will squeak, and as the
dough is flattened down large gas bubbles will be
formed only to be burst, of course. When the turn-
ing is finished the dough should feel springy. Left
to itself again, it will rise as before, and in an hour
more, when turning commences, should feel drier
(much less sticky). The gas will not now be so easily
knocked out and the bubbles formed will be quite as
numerous, but much smaller than at the first turning.
Dough will be more elastic, and on that account
harder to flatten out ; it will also have become a little
shorter — a fact, however, only noticeable when fold-
ing up ; the skin breaks easier. The " feel " of the
dough goes in this direction until the final scaling.
If flour used is at all soft or easily fermented, the
dough will feel more mature at this stage and prepara-
tions should be made to scale a little earlier. The
first signs of full maturity — not to say actually over
maturation — is a slight tightening of the dough
unaccompanied by any extra liveliness, and as the
dough ferments the tightness increases. This is a
dangerous sign and everything should be done to get
the rolls worked off expeditiously.

The sense of smell is not a good guide in diagnosing
a dough as to its state of maturity. If the reader
doubts this statement let him smell his dough before
and after turning, and he will find that smell depends

46 VIENNA BREAD.

simply on whether gas is allowed to remain in the
dough ; that means if the dough is turned often it
will have very little of the sharp smell at any
time, and a strong smell if the dough is left
much alone. Also, in short doughs the feel will be
different and the smell possibly less apparent. At
first turning of, for instance, No. 8, the dough
will feel " readier " than No. 6 at first turning. In
fact, it may be taken as a rough guide that very
short hot doughs always feel more mature than they
really are, and thus it is " green " (or under-fermented
stuff) is very often met with when working quick
processes. Care, of course, must be taken that the
dough does not become exhausted, as from quick
dough it is possible to get dough completely
worked out, yet sweet enough, and the direct
opposite applies to long doughs ; for instance, it
is not uncommon to meet with sour bread made
from long dough which shows every sign of having
been made from a " lively " dough. In long doughs,
therefore, watch sourness ; in short doughs, watch
exhaustion. The feel of a long dough is also directly-
opposed to that of the short dough, inasmuch as it
is very often a good deal better matured than the
feel of it would lead you to believe. This remark
also applies to Horseshoe dough (dough with fat).

As to dough made from sponge, it begins to strike
out right away and in a comparatively short time
shows quite evident signs of maturity. Much the
same may be said of these doughs as has been said
of " straights " but there always seems to be a good
"bottom" in them, if that word is allowable. In
working up such doughs, however, one must never
forget the state of the sponge when made into dough.
If sponge has been well ready, then the dough won't
stand any nonsense ; but if sponge has been taken
sharp, then a few minutes longer in dough will not
hurt resultant bread. Watching the progress of a

VIENNA BREAD. 47

sponge is accomplished with more accuracy. The
sponge rises right up, then flattens a little and a
mark appears across the top, then bubbles begin to
burst freely, and the whole mass sinks, leaving a
kind of margin all round the tub which marks the
" length of the fall." In a few minutes, however, it
will commence to rise again and will again drop. It
is important, then, to watch a sponge when nearly
ready, as one might easily mistake the going down
of the sponge for the second time as the first drop,
and this may make all the difference between grand
and indifferent bread. We think it unnecessary to
say more now on this matter than to commend its
careful re-perusal by all readers, assuring them
that the above remarks are the results of long years
of careful observation.

48 VIENNA BREAD.

Chapter VIII.

MAKING UP LARGE ROLLS.

NOW that we have our dough made and fer-
mented, it is time to devote ourselves to the
task of making it up into rolls. In this matter
we might preface our remarks by saying that the
novice will have to go slow at first ; it will take him
quite a while to acquire expertness in the making up
of Vienna dough, but this fact need not dishearten
him if the results attained are at all passable. He
will find, however, that the less the pieces are handled
the better will be the appearance of the finished
goods.

Suppose we take the easiest form first, i.e., the
large Vienna roll. It should be scaled and allowed
to lie according to the directions previously given
with each recipe. When ready for making up, lift
the piece in one hand and give it a smart slap on the
table : this will make it slightly oval. Lay the piece
.down on the table now the longest way from left
to right, just as if you had stretched the piece in
front of you with both hands. Then fold the part
of the dough next you fully half-way over from you,
run the heels of your hands along it to make sure it
will stick, then fold the side furthest from you over
towards you, again running the heels of the hands
along ; this time not only to stick the pieces together,
but to make a slight hollow, just enough to enable you
to double the roll over. Having done this, fold the
further half back on the half next you, and use the
heels of your hands again to " close," as a Scotch

VIENNA BREAD. 49

baker finishes a batch loaf or as most bakers finish
a tin loaf. Now flatten your hands and move them
backward and forward towards the ends of the roll,
the idea being to make a roll full in the centre and
pointed at the ends. Now, the correct way to prove
these rolls is to take a board and a bag (either cotton or
jute opened at the seam will do), the bag to be a good
deal bigger than the board. Spread the bag out,
then put on one roll, closing up, draw up the rest
of the bag slightly so that it makes a fold, then put
another roll against this, next another fold, and so
on until the board is full of rolls with a fold of the
bag between each one. In this way the rolls are
kept in beautiful shape and do not flatten out in any
way ; nevertheless, the writers make a good many rolls
every day and they have gradually taught themselves
to do without all this trouble. They simply put the
rolls on to boards dusted slightly with rice flour,
closing down, and they get the rolls all right. When
running the rolls into the oven, in the former case
it is desirable to wash them with clean water only.
In our case we may prove them in a moist press and
they may be run in without washing : in the pre-
vious case, as they are proved closing up, they
must be turned before being washed and cut ; in the
latter case, they are simply cut and run into the
oven. These rolls go under the name of Tafel Brodt
(table bread) in Germany, and of the larger varieties
of Vienna bread are certainly the most popular in
this country. These are the rolls with the familiar
diagonal cuts, of which more anon. They are made
from D dough, and are weighed at from 14 ozs.
to 16 ozs. for 2d. There is a smaller roll often made
from this dough, to sell at one penny, which in some
localities is a great favourite. It is scaled at from
6 ozs. to 8 ozs. and worked off in the same way as
the twopenny article ; in some cases, though, the cut
is made down the centre.

VIENNA BREAD.

VIENNA BREAD. 51

Another popular roll is known as the Long Roll,
Lemon Roll, or Banbury. This roll is sold at three-
pence and weighed accordingly. It is moulded in the
same way as the twopenny roll, and of the same
length. As it is much bigger (say, i Ib. 10 ozs.) it
is much fuller in the centre. It is always proved
closing down on dusted boards and gets one cut
only, and that lengthwise. It is customary to bake

BANBURY.

these rolls in steam, but the steam should be regu-
lated so that they are not glazed. This is easy
of accomplishment and will be explained under
"Baking."

The Coburg also might be included here ; although
it can hardly be called Vienna bread, there is no good
reason why it should not be made from Vienna dough.
In fact, we so make it daily and it goes very well.
Take D dough and scale off at about 22 ozs. Hand
up and allow to lie about twenty minutes ; then

52 VIENNA BREAD.

mould up firmly in round shape, and prove for thirty
minutes ; wash over with clean water, cut across
twice (hot cross bun style) with a sharp knife, and
transfer at once to the oven, a very little steam only
being necessary, else the cuts will not burst. It
makes an improved sole if the Coburgs are proved
upside down ; in fact, it is an improvement all round
— sole, burst on top, texture, and general boldness —
but it means more trouble and it resolves itself into
a case of whether the improvement is worth the
trouble.

The Coburg made of smaller size and of slightly
better dough is also a great favourite, as it provides
plenty of crust. Take B dough and proceed as
above, bearing in mind again that only a little steam
should be used if this roll is baked in the Vienna
oven, or the cuts will not burst, and mind, it is the
.burst or crack which gives it the appearance of
having a crisp sweet crust.

Rolls of the Banbury description are in some places
made to burst without cutting. This is accomplished
by laying from end to end a thin strip of un-
proved (but of somewhat richer) dough. These rolls
are known as Barges, and they look all right. Again,
the same roll is made with a fine twist laid down
the centre before it is set to prove ; the roll then
bursts a little at each side of the twist.

Batons, however, are distinct from the above. The
dough should be better, say 12 ozs. of lard and 6 ozs. of
sugar per gallon of liquor, which may have a little
milk in it. They may be weighed at 12 ozs. to 14 ozs.
for twopence, and for one penny in proportion. They
are moulded up in the same way as the twopenny
Vienna, but are proved, closing up, on boards well
dusted with rice flour. When proved enough, they
are turned over on to the peel, given three diagonal
cuts, and are baked in a hot oven with very little
steam in. The cuts, owing to there being little steam

VIENNA BREAD.

53

54 VIENNA BREAD.

present, crack and open, which gives the white roll
quite an unique appearance.

Closely allied in the mode of manufacture to some
of the foregoing is the French Roll. These rolls,
for reasons which it is unnecessary to discuss
here, are not widely sold. In some localities,
however, they are in great request by hotel-keepers,
restaurateurs, and caterers generally, for use instead
of dinner rolls. In one locality we remember it was
the only Vienna bread made (if we may express the
fact that way) ; in that case it was called Stick Bread.
It was weighed at i|- Ibs., sold at fourpence whole-
sale, and was about 2 ft. long. The handiest size of
French Roll, however, is undoubtedly the twopenny
size made from the dough classified under " A," and
weighed at from 10 ozs. to 12 ozs. The mode of
making is much like that followed for the previous
rolls. The piece is lengthened out with a slap on the
table which helps to knock out the inclination to
shrink, then it is folded from the worker, again to
the worker, flattened down as before, doubled over,
and finally firmly closed. It is then rolled out to a
length of 10 ins., but in this case care is taken to
make the roll the same thickness from one end to
the other. These rolls are in some cases proved in
long baskets made for the purpose, one roll in each
basket ; but the British baker wants as little nonsense
as possible with his work, and so we have no hesita-
tion in saying he will get good results by following
our plan, which is to prove the rolls in folds of cloth,
as before explained. As they are long and thin,
particularly the larger sizes, they may be found
troublesome to get on to the peel without knocking
out the proof. In this case they may be turned on
to a thin piece of wood, then slipped on to the peel,
although our practice is to get the peel close, then
pick them up smartly and lay gently on the peel.
It is not necessary to wash them, simply give three
cuts with a knife, if short rolls, and four or five if

VIENNA BREAD. 55

longer, and slip them into the steam oven. As we
have already said, these rolls are much used for
dinner bread ; they come cheap, of course, for hotel-
keepers. They are sliced jam roll fashion, and as many
as eighteen portions can be taken out of the four-
penny roll above spoken of, and seven or eight from
the twopenny roll. So that they may give symme-
trical slices, it is necessary that they should have a
round sole, and to obtain this a sound oven is neces-
sary first of all, but the rolls should also be left
out to take a skin on the bottom before being turned
over on to the peel. Just one final word about this
roll. Although we have given straight dough formulae
for French Rolls, as for the others, our practical
experience has been that sponge and dough, as given,
undoubtedly gives the best results. This applies to
French Rolls only — in fact, we are inclined to favour
straight doughs for everything else in the Vienna
line, on the point of flavour particularly. Note. —
These rolls may be put in a warm press but must not
be proved in steam. Also the photographs here
reproduced were taken from finished rolls — that is,
baked rolls ready for the table.

The Baton or Spike is a roll of the large class also,
but quite different from Batons already given. Take
a piece of Kaiser dough (B dough) and scale off at
14 ozs. for a twopenny roll. Hand up round and allow
to prove for fifteen minutes or so. Then proceed as
just described for the making of French rolls, the
idea being to get a roll of the same thickness through-
out. When the Batons are made up they should
be placed in pans, such as are used for French rasped
rolls, but of larger size, and set to prove, after-
wards baked in steam, and washed on top with clean
water, or a very thin solution of scalded cornflour,
as they are drawn from the oven. The pans for
these rolls are generally joined up in fours for handi-
ness, and in this way resemble a piece of corrugated
zinc, 12 ins. long, with ends fixed on.

VIENNA BREAD.

Chapter IX.

MAKING UP SMALL ROLLS.

THE next roll we will describe is the well-known
Kaiser or Empress. The making up of this
roll, which is made from B or Kaiser dough,
can be better practically demonstrated than explained
by words. However, the process is briefly this : get

FIG. i. — KAISER.

the piece nice and round to begin with, then when
proved a little, flatten down, fold in one edge
almost half-way across, as shown in Fig. i, and
lay your left thumb on the fold. Now fold
the edge furthest from you over your thumb and

VIENNA BREAD.

57

bring the edge of the right hand firmly down on
it at that part just past the end of your left thumb ;

FIG. 2. — KAISER (FIRST FOLD).

fold up the edge again, this time a little further along,
but don't move your left thumb, bring down the edge
of your right hand again firmly, just missing the

FIG. 3. — KAISER (SECOND FOLD).

point of the thumb as before. (The folding up
should be done with the first two fingers of the left

58 VIENNA BREAD.

hand, but it must be done somehow.) Repeat this
four times to make a five-point Kaiser (five points
are ample); when you finish the fourth time there

FIG. 4. — KAISER (THIRD FOLD).

will be a long tail left. Now draw your left thumb
and push this tail into the cavity left, press it firmly
down; then to finish give the edges of the points

FIG. 5. — KAISER (FOURTH FOLD).

(the first and fifth) a final squeeze together at the
base or bottom, turn the roll upside down, and set
to prove. There must be no steam used — in fact, it

VIENNA BREAD. 59

may be taken, as a general rule, that steam may be
used when rolls are proving, as they are to be baked,
i.e., with closings down ; but steam must not be used
on rolls proving upside down.

FIG. 6. — KAISER (FINISHED).

The Kaiser needs most steam of all Vienna varieties,
and should not be attempted in any oven other than
the Vienna type. This roU should be baked on the
oven bottom.

Many varieties of small rolls may be made from
Kaiser dough. A nice little thing called Split Brod-
chen is very simply done. Mould up the piece of dough
round and lay aside for a few minutes, then with a
very thin rolling-pin press firmly across the centre
almost down to the board. This will almost divide
the roll in two. Place the edges close together again,
and prove bottom upwards, then turn over before
putting into the oven. When it springs in the oven
the mark opens. This roll should also be baked on
the oven bottom if at all practicable.

Another popular line, which goes by the name of
the Semmel, is easily made. Mould up round as
before and prove bottom upwards. Just before
putting into the oven, turn up the right side and

60 VIENNA BREAD.

give one cut with a sharp knife, then run them in
on the oven bottom. This roll bursts out at the cut.
The small Banbury is another very effective shape
made from the same dough. Mould up round,
then roll slightly oval with one hand, after-
wards with both hands roll to a point at each
end. Prove v/ith closing up as before until ready,

FIG. 7. — HORSESHOE.

then turn over, give one cut from end to end, and
slip them in on the oven bottom. The cut bursts
out well and makes a fine showy roll.

Salt Rings and Salt Sticks also may be made
from Kaiser dough. These are greatly appreciated
by many people, as they help to sharpen a jaded
appetite. For rings the pieces are scaled about
ij ozs., simply rolled out long but even, and the

VIENNA BREAD. 61

two ends pressed firmly together, after which they
are washed with water and. dipped lightly in coarse
dry salt. The salt should be thoroughly dried on
the oven-stock, and a rolling-pin afterwards run
across it to ensure the absence of lumps. The sticks
are made in the same way, but are left straight, and
care is taken to make them all of a size.

Also an exceedingly nice thing, called French Roll,
or Rasped Roll, may be made from B dough.

FIG. 8. — HORSESHOE.

These rolls are weighed to suit the trade, i£ ozs.
to 2 ozs. being about right for a halfpenny. Rolled
up under hand and made slightly oval, they are then
transferred to a pan with rounded bottom, about
six in a line. The pan is shaped like the iron gutter
under the eaves of your house and may be easily
made out of a piece of tin. These tins are sometimes
in pairs or fours, and thus resemble, roughly, a piece of
corrugated zinc. The rolls, when proved, are baked

62

VIENNA BREAD.

in a sound oven, and afterwards, when still hot, have
the outside skin peeled off with a rasp. They are
unique in their way, crisp, and delicious.

Our favourite dough, however, is that from which
Horseshoes are made. From this dough endless

FIG. 9. — HORSESHOE.

varieties of rolls may be made which will delight the
customer who is sick of tea bread and pastry. There
is only one thing which must be remembered when
working up rolls from this dough : they must be
thoroughly baked in a sound oven. If this be kept

FIG. 10. — HORSESHOE.

in mind the rolls will eat like crisp butter biscuits,
yet with a flavour peculiar to good flour properly fer-
mented. We will here ask the reader to remember
what we said about butter, and would specially
caution him against increasing the proportion of

VIENNA BREAD. 63

margarine above that given. The writers have tried
all these little things before, and have here set forth
the result of their experience.

FIG. ii. — PERFECT HORSESHOE.

To make the Horseshoe, have the pieces handed
up round, then when ready take a rolling-pin and pin

FIG. 12. — HORSESHOE (How not to do it).

each piece out oval. Pin out a good number, using
a little dust during the operation. Now catch one

64 VIENNA BREAD.

of the ends with the left hand and hold it while with
the right you proceed to roll up the piece tightly ;
this is done by rolling with the flat of the right hand
and with the heel of the thumb, as it were, pushing
the roll back, By continuing this the piece still

FIG, 13. — CANNON ROLL.

unrolled is kept stretched and thin and the roll itself
gets longer. Finally, roll all up and fine down the
ends to symmetrical proportions — the roll should be
full in the centre and should taper towards the ends
— afterwards bringing the points round with a sweep.
Remember, also, now that the last fold across the
centre of the roll should be towards the inside of the

Fie. 14. — CANNON ROLL.

shoe and should be far enough over to be gripped
between the body of the roll itself and the tin on
which the rolls are to be proved. These rolls should
be proved on tins in a moist press and finally baked
off in a sound oven in steam.

VIENNA BREAD. 65

The Crescent Roll is different from the Horseshoe
only in that it is made in the form of a crescent or
half moon, as distinct from the almost circular form
of the Horseshoe.

The Cannon Roll is handed up with a slight waist
and this becomes exaggerated by simply pulling at
the ends — in fact, the making of a Cannon Roll very
much resembles the making of a Horseshoe, with the
difference that both hands are rolling up. The
broad ends of the roll are rolled up towards each

FIG. 15. — CANNON ROLL,

other and the piece between kept stretched; and
finally the two pieces are rolled up close together
side by side, and turned upside down. This makes
quite a dainty looking shape ; it is, like the Horse-
shoe, proved and baked in steam on a tin.

Here is another most delightful little thing for the
tea- or lunch-table ; it is bread as distinct from buns :
yet with tea or coffee, or even as an adjunct to the
light lunch-table, it will be preferred to even rich buns
by nine persons out of ten. We call it a French

E

66 VIENNA BREAD.

Crescent, but it may be made in the, perhaps, more
pleasing form of a horseshoe. For that matter, quite
a variety of nice shapes may be made from the
following dough, which will be appreciated because
they will be found to eat well. Take the follow-
ing : say, i Ib. of B dough (Kaiser dough) when
ready for scaling off, shape it square and pin it
out long and fairly thin ; then take £ Ib. of
good sweet fat, say half margarine and half lard
— unless you want to do something particularly

FIG. 1 6. — CANNON ROLL (FINISHED).

high-class, when you may use all butter — or half
butter and half margarine. Half margarine and
half lard, however, is our favourite for good-class
trade. Nip the fat into pieces and spread them
over one half of the sheet of dough ; then fold the
other half over, making very sure that the edges
are knit well enough to keep the fat from coming
out when you proceed to pin the sheet out, as you
now must proceed to do. Pin this out as the con-
fectioner pins puff paste and fold it in three — that

VIENNA BREAD. 67

is, fold one-third part of the dough nearest you over
on the centre third ; then bring the third part fur-
thest from you over on top of all. This will give
you a square piece of dough with three layers or
leaves. Now turn this half-way round — that is,
turn it round so that the ends will be where the sides
were ; let lie a few minutes to recover, until toughness
goes slightly away ; then pin out again and fold in
three as before ; let lie a little while again and repeat
the operation. The dough will thus have got three
turns, and will then be ready for working off. To
do this proceed as follows — pin out moderately thin,
still keeping the piece square, and then cut in strips
about 1 1 ins. to 2 ins. wide ; then cut across so as to
separate the sheet into a number of squares ; or,
after having cut the dough into strips, take each
strip separately and snip off squares with the knife,
seeing that each square weighs i oz. (this for a half-
penny article ; double that, of course, for a penny).
When all are cut, give a slight dust of flour and pro-
ceed to handle them as already described for horse-
shoes, i.e., pin out, keeping a point of what may be
now called a diamond shape towards you, and, of
course, one point from you. You will then start
rolling up the piece, and you will find the side points
make the ends of the shoe. This roll is best proved
in a dry heat and baked in the same way, but it
should be lightly glazed with a little thin egg-wash
before reaching the oven ; the glaze should not be
strong enough to make the roll glossy, but just
enough to give it the bloomy crust inseparable from
good Vienna bread. This makes a most delightful
roll, as we have already said, and will be eaten when
all other kinds of rolls are thrown aside.

Small Vienna rolls, made from C or Horse-
shoe dough, also form a dainty morsel. These
are moulded oval, then fined down at the ends ;
put on tins to prove, and just before being run into

68 VIENNA BREAD.

the oven get three oblique cuts with a sharp knife in
the same way as the larger rolls.

Rundstuck shape is also dainty. The Rundstuck
rightly is a roll by itself, made with all milk for liquor
(no water). There is no fat in its composition other
than that contained in the milk. It is made from a
very soft dough — as all doughs should be made in
which milk is present in large quantities — and requires
a great deal of hard work in the way of kneading and
stretching. The rolls are finally made long-shaped
with pointed ends, are proved, and when about to
go into the oven, give each one cut with a sharp
knife straight across. Although the demand for

FIG. 17. — TWIN OR DOUBLE ROLL.

this particular roll as it ought to be, is probably
limited in this country, the shape might well form a
pleasing item amongst the several varieties from
Horseshoe dough.

The Twin or Double Roll is simply the halfpenny
roll halved in two, moulded round and placed so close
together on the tin that they adhere when baked.

In some places the Coburg shape is popular ; for
this shape the roll is moulded round, then flattened
down and proved ; afterwards, as it goes to the oven,
it gets two cuts, one at right angles to the other.
But we draw the line at Coburgs — it is a nice shape

VIENNA BREAD. 69

and easy to make, which is a great deal more than
can be said for the crusty cottage shape which we have
noticed some bakers working at.

Until now we have ignored twists of all kinds. No
Vienna baker worthy of the name wants to spend
half the day making twists, neither does the public
care for the weird and wonderful shapes one some-
times sees. We could hardly pass the Penny Vienna
Twist, however. This twist should be a simple three-

FIG. 18. — PENNY VIENNA TWIST.

piece plait. The pieces are first scaled, then split
in three, and each of these three pieces is rolled out
to about 8 ins. in length with tapering ends. The
pieces are now laid across each other until they
resemble a six-pointed star. Afterwards three of the
pieces are plaited in the well-known way (from the
centre towards the end), and finally the three other
ends are manipulated in the same fashion. Although

70 VIENNA BREAD.

the plaiting may be started at the end all right, the
way described will be found to give a shapelier roll
generally, and it occupies no more time. The roll,
may be made from any of the given doughs, but are
appreciated most when made from Horseshoe dough.
They are, of course, baked on pans.

A Lunch Roll of the same class as French Crescent,
but not quite so rich, is made as follows — Put down
as a small sponge i qrt. water (100° F.), 2 ozs. yeast,
2\ Ibs. flour. Let this come up and drop ; then
make up with I qrt. water (90° F.), 4! Ibs. flour,
1 1 ozs. salt, i Ib. fat, 8 ozs. brown sugar. The sponga
should be ready in about one hour, and the dough
in two hours more. Double up at least once while
fermenting, afterwards scale off, say, 4 ozs. for id.,
hand up and lay aside for about twenty-five minutes ;
then mould up long shape. When you have moulded
up a few, take each separately, lay across the table —
that is, with ends pointing to and from you — and pin
out ; afterwards dip a clean brush in fat which has
been made semi-liquid by heat, and brush over the
piece of dough. Roll up as you would a horseshoe,
but do not roll tight ; afterwards curl the short, thin
ends in towards the body of the roll. This is in shape
like a half-moon with a good full centre and the points
bent sharply in towards, but without touching, the
body.

This Dinner Roll in some places is in very great
demand, and is easily made up. Take the Vienna
dough (D dough) and scale off in ounce pieces, let
lie for twenty minutes, then mould up round and
put the pieces on a flat pan, setting close together,
either directly opposite each other to form square
rolls, or honeycomb fashion, in which case they will
have six sides and appear almost round. British
bakers are fond of improving on things, so these
rolls often may be seen with a small bash hole on
top, which makes them appear like English crumby

VIENNA BREAD. 71

bread. There is not much trouble in making the
rolls to look like crumby bread, but although we
appreciate novelties and think no baker should
be content to follow slavishly the shapes he has
been taught, we draw the line at making English
crusty loaves of a few ounces each — that is, if we
have not already drawn it at the weird and won-
derful twists we sometimes see labelled Vienna
bread ; all the same, we must not forget that
English people like any amount of sweet crust.

Weckel is another nice roll for the tea-table. Take
the horseshoe dough (D) when ready for scaling, scale
off in pieces about 3 ozs. in weight, split in two as
you hand them up, and after allowing the pieces to
recover, mould up into a small roll pointed at the
ends, afterwards transfer to a tin, prove, and bake
in steam without making any kind of mark on them.
Something a little richer may be made by scaling at
2 1 ozs., splitting and handing up as before, and after
allowing to lie a little while, handing up again, round.
The pieces should be pinned out a little, then some
well softened, but not melted, butter (or a mixture
of margarine and lard) brushed over and the pieces
rolled up lightly, as you would a horseshoe. Do
not make them too long. Place now on tins, prove
dry, glaze with a weak egg-wash, and bake without
steam.

The Dinner Stick, however, is a most dainty
little thing, and there is not a tremendous lot of
work connected with it when you set about it in
the right way. The piece of dough which makes one
halfpenny roll should be split into four and after
undergoing a slight moulding action should be rolled
out under the hands held flat, until the pieces are, say,
5 ins. long. These pieces are then placed on pans side
by side in neat rows and allowed to lie some little time
to allow for shrinking. The ends are then cut off with
a scraper : afterwards they are set to prove, and are

72 VIENNA BREAD.

finally baked crisp. The idea of trimming them is to
get them square at the ends and all of a size ; in
some places, where a large business is done in these
little things, a great deal of pains is taken in the way
of marking pans and such like to ensure that the
sticks are as near alike as the proverbial two peas ;
These dainties, by the way, when served at table, are
tied up in threes or fours with bright-coloured ribbon,
and a small bundle laid to each guest.

For Tea Sticks take any good rich dough, such as
Horseshoe dough, and work off in much the same way
as described for Dinner Sticks, but make them a little
longer. The absolutely necessary features about
these are flavour and crispness. Bake crisp in a quick
oven, and do not mistake hardness for crispness.
Varieties may be made by proceeding as for Weckel,
using a smaller piece of dough and dusting a little
granulated sugar on after brushing with the butter,
as directed in the making of that other tea roll.

The Soft Tea Stick is a nice adjunct to the tea-
table. Good rich dough should again be used, and
scaled off at about i| ozs. Afterwards, this should
be split in two, rolled out a few inches, then the
two pieces taken and twisted, rope fashion, the same
thickness all through, placed on tins so that they
will touch, then proved and baked in steam.

It would be a simple matter giving a long list of
shapes of rolls, but we think that no good purpose
would be served by so doing. Our aim is to make
this little book as useful as possible. We will stop
then, at Aniseed and Poppy Seed Rolls, and such
shapes as horseshoe twists, believing that we have
given quite a reasonable variety of rolls which are
completely different one from another, and all
eminently suitable for the British trade.

VIENNA BREAD. 73

Chapter X.

BAKING THE ROLLS.

WHEX the rolls are finally ready for the oven
there are a few details which require close
attention. We have already referred to
the Vienna oven and the reason for its peculiar
shape ; we also have spoken of steam, and now we
will explain how the best results may be got by these
two in combination. It is superfluous to discuss
the working of the oven further than to say that the
fire should be kept in a healthy condition if the oven
is a patent one, so that the temperature may be under
proper control. We need hardly say that dirty fires
are not fuel-savers, and wdth such fires it is almost
impossible to keep up steady heats for any length of
time ; neither is it possible to raise or lower open
temperatures quickly under such conditions.

Having got the oven up to baking temperature,
and boiler pressure at a point to ensure a copious
supply of steam, proceed to turn on the steam. First
turn on the lower of the two cocks and blow out all
the water that has collected in the pipes ; this cock
is called the " drip " cock, and is fixed in a way
that will ensure all water (condensed steam) running
out of the pipes when it is opened. When steam only
conies from this cock (and not till then), shut it,
and turn on the oven cock (the cock which con-
trols the flow of steam to the oven) ; let the steam
blow in for half a minute or so, then slack it off ;
in another half minute or so turn on the steam

74 VIENNA BREAD.

full, and let it blow in until the oven is full up,
i.e., until the steam begins to issue from the oven
mouth ; the oven is then ready for work. The
reason why steam is blown in, then slacked off,
is to sweep out the air before finally filling up with
saturated steam. If this is not done, you may be led
sometimes to think the oven is full of steam by the
vapour issuing from the door, when, as a matter of
fact, it is the displaced air bringing with it a quantity
of the steam. The whole thing, of course, is to get the
oven full of saturated steam ; we do not want the
atmosphere of the oven saturated with steam, we
want no atmosphere in the oven at all — as atmosphere
is understood, anyway. Of course, to those who
are acquainted with the laws which govern gases
we need not say the atmosphere creeps into the oven
(let us put it that way), but we want to make sure first
that the atmosphere is swept out of the oven, and,
secondly, that it is kept out. When once we accom-
plish the first, the second is easy : we simply keep the
steam blowing gently — moderately — into the oven.

As explained before, saturated steam is simply the
fine molecules of steam wetted, and we have also
hinted that when this water comes in contact with
anything cooler than the particle of steam it is adher-
ing to it immediately becomes disengaged and settles
on the cooler body. It is in this way that the rolls
are glazed. The hot water is deposited on the dough
and in the presence of the oven heat actually boils the
skin of the dough — that is, it acts on the dough
exactly as boiling water does : it gelatinises the
starch, and this gelatinised starch, in the presence of
much water runs smooth. The water, however, does
not penetrate far, and so the action soon ceases, the
skin becomes warm, and water ceases to be deposited
because the skin is reaching the temperature of the
steam particles. Water now is being withdrawn
not only from the crust, but from inside the roll.

VIENNA BREAD. 75

The crust, however, now undergoes a change, the
starch charging to sugar. The chemical aspect
need not concern us here further than that it is worth
remembering that when the crust reaches that rich
golden which reminds you of corn-fields, the sugar is at
its maximum. If we then have the sugar at its
maximum we have the crust of the roll at its sweetest,
and as crust bulks largely in Vienna rolls, we need not
occupy space by pointing out the importance of
having the rolls not only thoroughly baked, but of a
light golden-brown colour.

When the oven is ready and the rolls proved, the
latter are lifted lightly on to a long peel and slipped
into the oven. The Vienna oven peel is not like the
ordinary peel, except in that it has a " rod " and a
"" head." One kind of peel — a very handy one, too —
is almost all head ; it has a long narrow head capable
of holding five or six twopenny rolls, end to end, and a
rod of not more than 2 ft. The idea is to put in as
many rolls as possible at one time, because the oven
door has got to be opened and shut every time the
peel is used. It is customary, then, when using this
style of peel to have two — one with a shorter head
to go round the corners — and both these peels arc
loaded and emptied with one opening and shutting
of the door. For small rolls that are baked on the
open bottom a short broad peel is good, say 18 ins.
long by 12 ins. broad. By using this kind of peel you
will surprise even yourself at the short time it takes to
get a big lot of small rolls into the oven. For those
rolls baked on pans, cf course, the ordinary pan peel
is best.

Let us digress for a moment to enable us to give
one or two more recipes.

When firing off French rolls or large Vienna rolls,
lay the peel on the table, which should be drawn up
•close to the oven ; then, if the rolls are proved upside-
down, turn them on to the peel ; wash with water

76 VIENNA BREAD.

if you have any doubts about their taking a glaze ;
then give three or four cuts quickly with a sharp thin
knife. Open the oven door, run them in, and slip
them all off at once at one side of the peel. Withdraw
the peel, shut oven door, and load up again. If the
rolls are fully proved, they should have a shallow
cut, almost a scratch; but if slightly under-proven,
they must have a good cut. The bursting of the
cut, however, depends more on the amount of steam
in the oven than on the deepness of the cut. We like
to see every cut burst just a little bit, and we accom-
plish this by regulating the steam. If you keep plenty
of steam in the oven the cuts will come out as so many
marks on the loaf only. Of course, this is all a matter
of taste. In this connection, however, care must be
exercised in using steam, or the water held in sus-
pension will be deposited on the peel itself, and this
will cause the rolls to stick and get spoiled. Water
will form also on the door and drop off on the rolls as
you pass them into the oven.

If the larger rolls are proved " closing down,"
an assistant may help by washing, if washing is
necessary. To get best results, however, rolls ought
never to be cut until on the peel. Those small rolls
proved on pans should not require washing, a puff of
steam in the prover will fix them. It is a question, by
the way, what rolls ought to be baked on pans and
what ought not. There is no hard-and-fast rule, but
it may be taken as a general rule that all rolls with
a fair proportion of fat should be baked on pans,
while all others should be baked on the oven bottom.
Still, every man must use his own judgment. At the
present time one of the writers is baking all his Kaiser
and such like small rolls on pans, for the one sufficient
reason that his Vienna oven almost always carries too
much bottom heat ; on the other hand, we have
heard a friend declare that he often bakes even his
horseshoes on the oven bottom, because of the

VIENNA BREAD. 77

rounded bottom it gives. In this matter the " shoes "
are proved straight and curled only when put on the
peel ; for our own part, we never try such jinks.

As to temperatures of ovens, it is difficult to give
figures which may be universally applied. For large
rolls 400° F. to 410° F. should be right, while for rolls
of the horseshoe description 400° F. should be the
maximum — a sound, rather than a hot, oven is
necessary. Then for rolls of the Kaiser order 400° F.
or slightly less makes a good job, but care must be
taken that the sole is not heavy. All rolls, but par-
ticularly small ones, should be baked crisp, and, if
fermentation has been correctly looked after, they will
remain crisp until almost stale. If they do not
remain crisp, it may be because of several things — the
chief one probably being under-fermentation. It is
almost impossible to get under-fermented rolls to
keep crisp. The want of crispness may also be due
to the use of too strong flours ; although, of course,
the prime reason may be under-fermentation as a
consequence. Then want of crispness may be, and
often is, due to the fact that baking has been com-
pleted in an atmosphere of saturated steam, whereas
crispness can only follow on baking in a dry heat,
and for this reason we spoke a good word for the side-
flue Vienna oven, because of the ease by which a dry
atmosphere can be exchanged for one thoroughly
saturated with moisture, when the rolls are half
baked. For this reason also we introduced into
our Vienna oven sketch a " suggested damper."
The use of this damper is to carry off the steam once
the rolls are glazed, and as this is accomplished within
a few minutes of the rolls entering the oven, certainly
crispness is bound to be the result. We offer the
suggestion of this most desirable feature to Vienna
oven builders, believing that it is a long-felt want.

There is a subject which we have not treated on
until now, and that is the very important one of

78 VIENNA BREAD.

baking rolls in other than Vienna ovens. We will
not occupy a great deal of space on it, however,
believing that, so far as steam glazing is concerned,
the ordinary oven is a failure. Even with an enorm-
ous quantity of steam, such could not be got to come
down on top of the rolls unless some special appliance
is used. The best thing to use in such a case is a sheet
of iron the size of the oven door with a very small
door in it at the bottom. In this way a few rolls may
be made, but the quantity of steam required is great,
and there is the additional disadvantage that no
light can be had inside the oven. With the draw-
plate oven it is easier ; in fact, given plenty of
steam, there is no reason why first-class Vienna
bread may not be turned out properly glazed. The
plate should be withdrawn, filled quickly with rolls,
the same washed and cut ; while all the time these
operations are proceeding, the door should be shut
(with plate out) and the steam kept blowing in. Now
the door is opened, the plate pushed in, and the
steam turned on full ; in a few minutes steam issues
forth from the chinks of the door. Now shut off
the steam, and know that the rolls will be all right.
When half baked open the door for a minute to let
away a quantity of the steam, and so get crisp
crusts on your rolls.

With an ordinary oven it is better not to attempt
to produce glaze in the oven, unless plenty of pressure
steam is to be had and you have your mind set on
the matter. We recommend, as an alternative, the
use of prepared wash, and can speak with confidence
of the results of its careful use. We hasten to say
right away, however, that steam in the oven serves
more than the purpose of glazing, so that although
washes are used, and you get almost the same kind
of glazed crust, you do not always get the same
results. The moist atmosphere keeps the dough
from setting at one side faster than another, and, in

VIENNA BREAD. 79

fact, does not allow the crust to set until the roll
has got up to its full height. The result is that with
a fair amount of proof, much more shapely rolls can
be got with the Vienna oven, and also more regularity.
Thus it is, although we think the ordinary oven a
failure so far as glazing is concerned, we see no
good reason why steam should not be used where
procurable. The glazing can be very easily accom-
plished by using the following : —

Our Favourite Glaze.

I qrt. warm water (105° F.). 2\ ozs. flour.

Stir the flour well in so that there shall be no lumps r
then transfer to the gas-ring and bring to the boil,
stirring well all the time ; let boil for a minute or
two, then lay aside for use either hot or cold. The
warm water is used simply because it comes to the
boil faster. The rolls should be washed with water
before they are put into the oven, then they should
be washed as they come from the oven with the above
glaze ; they must on no account be allowed to lie
before glazing.

In glazing with washes, care must be taken to avoid
making the crusts streaky. The latter is very often
the result of an attempt to get an extra good gloss by
using a thick wash. You must on no account use a
thick wash. If the gloss is not sufficiently bright,
slip the rolls back into the oven for a fraction of a
minute after washing, then withdraw and wash
again ; any degree of gloss can be got in this way.
In the matter of other glazes, we may give it as our
experience that nothing better than the above need
be desired. Cornstarch or cornflour may be sub-
stituted and does all right. It is used by some
Vienna bakers in preference to ordinary flour ; but
whilst appreciating it, we know nothing of it to
warrant our preferring it to the flour that is always
at hand. It is used at the rate of 2 ozs. per quart,

8o VIENNA BREAD.

and prepared as above by boiling. The proportion
of either corn or wheat flour may be varied at will,
but take our advice and make it thin. Egg-wash
thinned with water is sometimes used, but we only
mention it here to get a chance of discouraging its use
amongst amateur Vienna bread bakers. If it be
used, it should be used on the rolls before they are
baked. In this connection it might be well to point
out that a wash is sometimes made like the following: —

I qrt. water. 2 ozs. cornstarch.

2 eggs.

The wash is prepared by boiling as before, but the
eggs are left out until it has cooled. We do not recom-
mend this wash, and certainly it must not be used
after the rolls are baked, as the egg turns white when
it comes in contact with the hot crust. This applies to
all washes containing eggs, even in very small pro-
portion, and ought to be remembered. Our favourite
wash has this to recommend it ; it gives the rolls
actually the same kind of glaze as steam, not only in
appearance, but in chemical composition, and there-
fore— which is important — in flavour.

VIENNA BREAD. 81

Chapter XI.

MISCELLANEOUS.-

BEFORE writing "Finis" we have been tempted
to add a few miscellaneous items, which we
hope will be found equally useful with what
has gone before.

A roll of a very desirable kind, and of the large
type, is the Sweet Rye Roll. Rye bread is much
consumed on the Continent, and there we really get
rye flour ; we do not think, however, that rye bread,
as used on the Continent, would be appreciated here,
but with good rye and a little wheat flour a very
enticing roll may be made. Take —

2 Ibs. medium to strong 2- ozs. yeast.

flour. i oz. salt.

2 Ibs. rye flour (not 6 ozs. golden syrup.

meal). i quart water (no'J F.).

Mix the rye and wheat flours together, then make
up into dough as described under Straight Dough, in
Chapter vi, and allow to lie for an hour. At the
end of that time turn the dough and well toughen it
by stretching and folding. Repeat this in half-an-
hour, and in a further half-hour — or at the end
of two hours from starting — scale off and hand
up. Let lie for almost twenty minutes ; then make
up as described for French Roll, i.e., the same
thickness all through (see French Roll illustration).
Prove on dusted boards with closing down, and
bake on the oven bottom in a little steam. Do
not cut with a knife, as described for French Rolls

F

82 VIENNA BREAD.

— simply give about four docks with a thin skewer
instead. This makes a beautiful roll, which eats
well and lends itself admirably to slicing.

Sometimes customers may ask for the sour variety,
but, as this will happen but seldom, we content our-
selves with giving a simple, if not right, way to
make a few. Make up half the above, leaving out
the syrup and yeast, and allow it to lie all night.
Next morning make up half the above, minus the
syrup, but with 2 ozs. of yeast ; add the dough
made the previous night and a few carraway seeds.
This dough will be ready for scaling in about i£ hours,
but will want turning during that time. Make up
this roll pointed at the ends, prove as before, and,
just before it goes to the oven, dock about four
times with a thin skewer.

Another roll, which we intended to leave out, but
which on second thoughts we include, is called Bretzel.
This is a small roll and is made from dough like
Horseshoe dough. Take : —

1 8 Ibs. flour i Ib. margarine,

i Ib. lard. 2 qrts. milk.

3i pts. water. 14 eggs.

With 6 ozs. yeast for three hours. As it is probable
only a few of these will be made at one time, it will be
easier to take, say, i£ Ibs. of Horseshoe dough, one
hour before it is ready for scaling, and mix in one egg
and a dust of flour. The simplest way to make
these is to pin out the dough until £ in. thick, then
cut it up in strips with a sharp knife. These strips are
then rolled out long. Afterwards you take an end
in each hand, give one hand a quick jerk, which makes
a loop with a double twist at the neck, then lay the
ends over to catch the bend of the loop ; keep the
ends well apart, then press down.

VIENNA BREAD. 83

Stollen.

This is like a rich fermented cake and is very nice
indeed. For a small lot take

4 eggs. 4j Ibs. flour.

1 pt. milk. 3 ozs. yeast.
And water sufficient with 6 ozs. sugar.

the eggs and milk to fill Pinch of salt,
a quart measure.

Eggs, milk, and water should be heated together
to 100° F., and all made up into a straight dough ;
or, the water, milk, sugar, yeast, and half the flour
may be made up into a batter sponge, allowed to
come up and drop, and the rest of the ingredients
incorporated. By the straight dough method the
dough will be ready in forty-five minutes. It should,
of course, be kneaded well, say twice during that
period and, at any rate, should be good lively dough.
Into this dough now mix

14 ozs. butter. \ Mo. lemon peel (shred).

2£ Ibs. sultanas. £ Ib. citron peel (in small

£ Ib. shred almonds. cubes).

The butter should be softened previously, and the
fruit warmed. If this be done, the dough will begin
to show signs of life right away, and as soon as it
has made a fair start, scale off. Afterwards mould
up oval on to baking-sheets, or put into square pans,
prove slowly, and bake in a mild oven. When
drawn, wash light with a little water, and dust with
pulverised sugar. This may be made in any size and
should bring in easily at the rate of 6d. per Ib.

Sunday Bread (Small Mixing).

2^ Ibs. flour. \\ ozs. yeast.

2 ozs. sugar. i egg.

3 ozs. butter (margarine). i pt. liquor (fully).

Take up the liquor (which should be half milk and
half water) at 94° F., and with a pinch of salt dough

84 VIENNA BREAD.

up. The dough should be ready in two hours,
and should be scaled at 12 ozs. for 2d. It should be
moulded pan shape, care being taken to leave one
side of the closing longer than the other. This piece
should be flattened down somewhat and folded over
the loaf loosely. The loaf is then put in a small pan
(oval or square) with the loose part uppermost. When
the loaf is proved and finally baked, this loose part
bursts at one side and shows the fine creaminess of the
loaf.

Vienna Brioche.

8 ozs. flour. 2 eggs.

2 ozs. sugar. i oz. yeast.

4 ozs. butter. Milk.

FIG. 19. — SUNDAY BREAD.

Take all warm new milk, as much as will make
a medium dough ; allow it to lie in a warm place
until well proved, then double up and scale a few

VIENNA BREAD. 85

minutes afterwards at 2\ ozs. for a penny. Work
off in the form of cottages with a very small head
pushed well down. Prove on tins, then snip three or
four times round the edge of the bottom half with
scissors ; egg- wash, and bake. In some places this
dough is made at night and placed in the ice cave ;
is laid on warm, boards in the morning, and then
worked off. The appearance of these dainties is
improved by baking them in cheese cake pans ;
this plan is not at all troublesome.

German Brioche.

3j Ibs. flour. 4 eggs.

6 ozs. sugar. 2 ozs. yeast.

14 ozs. butter. ij pts. liquor.

Liquor — half milk, half water, at 96° ; dough up
tight as for horseshoes, prove well, knock out, prove
again, then knock out and a few minutes later scale.
iMake up into horseshoes and three-plait twists,
and before they go into the oven wash and sprinkle
with sugar.

The above can be modified, df course. No doubt
many will think that Vienna Brioche is unduly rich.
Still, if it is compared with such things as puff paste
it is not. It is, of course, an extra rich mixing, but
it eats remarkably nice when properly made, and
is not at all heavy or sodden. It is just the kind of
thing that will catch on with good-class customers
when they have grown tired of everything else : and
how often does the average baker wish for some-
thing unique under such circumstances.

And now the time has come to close this series,
not because we have said ah1 we have to say, or
written all we might have written on the subject.
The foregoing does not pretend to be an exhaustive
treatise on the subject of Vienna bread making,
and for this one reason, elaborate treatises are

86

VIENNA BREAD.

prone to dryness, because of their exhaustiveness —
one can have too much even of a good thing ; and so
it has been our aim all through to make this little
book not only educative and instructive, but in-
teresting. Exactly how far we have succeeded in
this we leave the reader to judge.

THE END.

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