The vine-dresser's theoretical and practical manual

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THE
. VINE-DRESSER’S
THEORETICAL AND PRACTICAL

MANUAL,

OR THE ART OF CULTIVATING

THE VINE;

AND MAKING - %
WINE, BRANDY, AND VINEGAR.

With descriptions of the Species and Varieties of the Vine; the Climates, Soils, and Sites
in which each can be successfully cultivated, with their times of blossoming and bearing; the
diseases of the Vine and means of prevention. With instructions for the preservation
of Wines, Brandies, Vinegars, Confections, &c. of the Grape; for the care of
the Wine-Cellar; the economy of the Vine-Yard; and a brief Sketch

of the diseases Incidental to the Vine-Dresser. i

ss

_ THIEBAUT “a BERNEAUD, (22

7
Perpetual Secretary of the Linnean Society of Paris, member of several Societies and Associations for the
Improvement of Agriculture ; and Editor of the Agricuitural Journal of Paris, §&

i

From the second French Edition, hy the Translator of

LE SOLITAIRE, LE NOTTI ROMANE, WC.
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NEW-YORK:
PUBLISHED BY PF. CANFIELD.

1829.

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INTRODUCTION.

Jé is proper to state here, that im the present translation, and the pub-
ication of the same, there has, perhaps, been no motive more powerful
with both translator and publisher, than the desire te disseminate the
instructions contained in the original werk, in accordance with the
views and wishes expressed by respectable officers of the Linnwan Socie-
ty of Paris, through their branch established in this country: one of the
mazims of that institution, to which its members liberally assent, being
that in their individual capacity they should devote their efforts and in-
jluence to encourage the diffusion of the information coliected by the Se-
ciety, especially such as is of practical adaptation, and iends to the im-
provement of any province of agriculture. And it is now a subject of
congratulation to the publisher, that this work will make its appearance
at a time when the spiret of enterprise in the Vine-Culiure is 30 for-
ward, and when so many possessed of capital and education, are turn-
ing their cares and attention to this new and promising article of
produce. He entertains the hope, confiding in the character of the ort-
ginal work & of its author, that this publication will, along with others
on the same subject, meet the call for information, and supply the neces-
sary general principles by which this culture should be regulated. The
two following introductory and explanatory letters, concerning the abil-
ity and merits of the author, are subjoined, in recommendation of the
selection of thts Manual for these purposes. .

The following is @ letter written by Dr. Samuel L. Mitchill, in

answer to anote to him from the translator, requesting kts opinion

of Thiebaut de Berneaud’s Manual on the Vine.

New-York, Jan. 30, 1229.

“I do myself the pleasure, as soon as practicable, to answer your let-
ter of yesterday, on the subject of the Vine-Dresser’s Manual. I. ap-
pears to be a regular treatise on the Grape-producing Vine. The sub-
ject is treated under the following heads: 1, the culture of th: Vine
and its introduction into France. 2, the diseases to which itis ubject.

INTRODUCTION.

their causes, and the means of preventing and removing them: 3, the
art of making wine: 4, preparation of brandy : 5, different uses of the
products of the Vine, indomestic economy: 6, a sketch of the diseases
peculrar to the Vine-Dressers.

“You ask my opinion of the author M. Thichaut de Berneaud. I have
no personal acquaintance with him; but have seen a considerable num-
ber of his writings and compilations. I consider him, independent of
his perpetual secretaru-ship to the Linnean Society of Paris, as hold-
ing a respectable and distinguished place among the savans of the pre-
sent teme. His productions contain abundant proofs of his industry
ang research. He may be fairly classed, I think, among the most zeal-
ous evliicators of nalural science, more especially botany, and its re-
lations to farming and horticulture. Though not a practical cultiva-
tor of the vine myself, I am nevertheless led to conclude that this work:
of his, possesses a full share of merit. Ihope your translation of it
into English will invite many readers. The high character of the au-
ther will doubtless,at this season of vine-culture, attract much attention.

Added to the preceding publications of able men, at home and abroad,
on the same subject, I anticipate from this tract, benefit to the country
and reward to the translator.”

Yours with sincere esteem and regard,

SAMUEL L. MITCHILL.

Honorary President of the New-York, Branch of the Linntean Society
of Paris.

pc

From Dr. F. Pascalis.

The Vine-Dressers’ Manual, Manuel du Vigneron of France, whick
after having passed through several editions, is now offered in a
good translation to the American public, is a work of standard
merit, and enjoys much celebrity where its usefulness has been tested ;
more particularly has u been held in great repute in that north-
ern section of France, where of late the culture and crops of the grape
have been more generally attended to than they were informer years and
rendered quite domestic. The author, Monsieur Thiebaut de Berneaud,
editor of the Paris Journal of Agriculture, and member of many learned
socretices, has himself been a powerful contributor to the extension of that
rich species of culture in climates where it was formerly thought as
nerfectly inadmissible, as tn the Belgicand other provinces of the Lou:

INTRODUCTION.

Countries. At present, however, both the fruit and excellent wine are
abundant in those parts, and in countries much beyond the 47th degree
of North Latitude.

No cultivator, whether horticuliurist or farmer, can read these pages
without admitting the practical merit of the clear instructions, and
recognising an experienced teacher, whose precepts can be adapted to
every climate and latitude in which the grape is found indigenous
and sufficiently productive for the important object of fermentation.
All the processes of this latter, are also given in the work, with the most
lucid and plain detail of circumstances. Monsieur Thiebaut, who has
been so long the principal agent and secretary of the Linnean Society
of Paris, and who in that capacity has given such admirable and valua-
ble assistance towards its extensive collection of Annals in Natural His-
tory and Philosophy, presented this work long since to the subscriber, in-
viting him to employ it for the encouragement of the culture of the
£rape-vine in this country, where that plant is a native, and where tt
needs but the industry of the inhabitants, and proper modes of cultiva-
tion, to insure a complete and general success inthe raising of wines.
Happy to have in part complied with his desire, and honored by being the
depository of his recommendation, I the more confidently presume to
subjoin my wishes to his, that we may yet sce yearly vintages on this
side the Atlantic, as regular as the harvests of grain.

FELIX PASCALIS M. D.
President of the Linnean Branch of Paris for the U. States of America

New-York, Febrnary 10th, 1828.

THE VINE-DRESSER’S
THEORETICAL AND PRACTICAL

WAMITAB.

CONTEN LS:

BOOK FIRST.

Pace
Cuarrer 1. . History of the Vine, «2-400 => Seago sateen eeeee
Cuap. IL Description of the Vine and its Varieties..e....+. 13
1. Early Black Morillon,...... nonin halt Sateageross, 15
2. The Miller’s Grape, ....: whan: ape te Peer oe 17
3. The Black Burgundy,........ Seba dd ae ee basic bie 6 18
4. The Tinto Grapeyscocsenc. ccccesecsess Vanities) 0.
5. Small Gamet, ov. . 6 scaswasen ee ae eee 2b.
6. Pearl Grape,....sse-s00% cece ce ces evanesinne dis ™ 19
7. Blue Girkin, « o.00>00cna0sas aspera tb.
S. White Grtset,....< cna eens eigen Sex . 2
9. Morillon, Shon nc mics as cpieee es ee ab.
10. White Mornain,.....-.2+.00. Vt eae ee . tb.
M42 Phe DRGs, <6 a tie oa oi Seminal sane cncce. DE
12... The Chasselas,. ..0< = scvasy ice ome oiahaictalsle Cubes 22
13. Croutat or Parsley-leaved, ...2.0<esssee = nian nin ab.
14, The COLne ds, ox «sin win wisn oinlni tel ay ee ib.
15. Aleppo Grape,..v..+seeeee ons senha ei ee 23
16. The Gouats,...... EARS ee Ss - ee 2b.
17. The Verjuice Grape,......- Sai 2 oie, tase» 24

18. Of other Species and Varieties,.... «sseree---- ib.

Cuap. Ll. Of the Soils and Exposures Suitable to the ae’ 26
IV. The Culture of the Vine,....--. ee 32

1. Of the Tall-Stock or Running Vine,.<ccsecees+s tb.

2. Of the Low-Stach, «<<+=< «s-seneeeeeeeene ee

ContTENTS.
Pace.
3. Counter-Espalier Training, »...22200-ccee002. 34
4. Pyramid Training,....0.+secseeeeeseees ae 35
5. Trellise Training ,......e.++se08-- “oF Seer. 2 39
Cuar. V. On the Selection and Setting Out of Sleps,....... 4i
VI. Of the Tillage of the Vine,.....+...-.. eaten asec 46
VII. Of the Manuring of the Vine, ...6..eeeceeeceee- 43
VIL. Of the Influence of the Weather on the Vine and
ss ths, Produets,....+..+.. ath ween es @aceenee OF
IX. On the Means of Renewing Vines and Vineyards 53
1. Of Layering, ....+- cai Ril < a "ea Bee Fie 2b.
2. Of Intrenching, ....-+ Roasts siats <aayn« aeLe @ 5 Sent oe,
pee Oe EEA 8 ei ain aan ain naan aes tal act aces
Crap. X. Ee eee oer Secgge-scc- OO
XI. OF Clppine aor Bedding... on c0s scnwecccess ace 61
XI. Of Propping or Supporting ,.......esceee2205- 63
eRe hurt ar idee sca iis oc ect cnic ces cace es 65
a OF Tomiie A. ot ese. incis Sania Meade dees cc 66
XV. re GerdGa®,. 2.5.65. Ss ata Pal ci abalste where win os 67
mE =O frrefing.. 6524.50 sprees Ese AAA Ae ae
NRE ONS POGEEMOT os cea c ede neck ddesseseccnase FO
BOOK SECOND.

Diseases and Casualties Affecting the Vine ; with the

: Means of Prevention and Cure,.....seece0e:-
Cuap. [. Oe BSE so oe geen ale inion wale GEIS es 77
& Of Hail Siorms: 2 2..2% 2.2% a on nee 5 URE? Me's 738
Se Oi BOTS aie atm cle yn dain wine eccvecee Pre or thee 79
AO tee Piash or Plethorae.acco0s va onc cndkess 80
5. Of the Goupillure or Stint,...... SOAPS Be ae
Rie ae EA Een cele Sh ajh's ms Dahm > a oS bees 81
wy Cankers... i; -.<s iefery sli a eicboe < EE wn s's ab.

8. Diseases of the Leaves, The Blast, the Rust, and
the Yellows,....... Bite seer. Ge a -e er ere 2b.
9. The Blight or Barrenness of the Blossom,....... 82
Cuap. I. ‘Of Animals that Attack the Vine,.............. 3
1 Of Quadrupeds,....... see eat Ce eee 2 ee 20.
me Op Bivdsyee see ss os sha eon ns St ee eee 2b.
fea OF Snails ot ig22) 28. Bite! eee 84
Cuap. IIT. Of Insects that Attack the Vine,...... ...2.2.: 85
i. The Melolonifia; (ov. <5» eee eee APP ee Heer 2b

CHap.

(CHAP.

ConNTENTS.

Pace

‘2. The Cryptocephalus vitis,......+. ee
Bo: The Weetil,: $52 sitece rece See ts Pee
4. The Red Chrysomela,c.ccsscccccccesscescnces 2.
5. The Coccinella globosa,..ccccsccccasscewavacss 0.
6. The Grasshopper, Gryllus grillo-talpa,....-+++- 88
7. The Mantis religiosa or Camel-Cricket,.....+2.+ w.
8. The Red-winged Cricket—Acrydium stridulum .. wb.
9. The Chermes vitis, or Vine-Fretter,....eeee0s mer J
30S The’ Wasp, foes ace eevee ee cccccccvacessscse 89
11. The Pyralis or Silver-moth,..... seleanend saline | OO.
12. The Tinea or Miner-worm,...... ee ee
13. The Sphinz,: :.-2.35--S02aee neem SS a 2
14. The Tinea of ‘the Cluster jc... ies -tueseheeeess- ok

BOOK THIRD.

Tse Art or Maxine WINE.

1. Of the Vintages... sos aunmee dfacweanwesescc “Oe
ik Of Stemming the Grapes,........ Puke whe cea oe
ITt. Of Crushing the Grapes,. a... s5ahe cease ees « 97
IV. Of the Vinous Fermentation,..2.....2sccccees 99
i: Of the Wine Vessels, Vats;@76-5<ie ene e anes on 104
VI... Of the Duration of the Fermentative Process,... 106
Vil. ” Of the Wine-Press,- 52.2 ceeen ee ee -«- 110
Vill. Of the Wume-Cellar,. .v- +} - pe eeeeeeee eseee IIL
1X. Of the Management of the Wine in Casks....... 112
x Of Rackuiy 62. sec see eee eee ee ereese 114
XI. Of. Ferme a. ee sens doen cuse seer Eres eee E - 116
AI. Of the Sulphuring or Stumming of Wines...... 117
NIll. . - Of - Bottling, 23.3 .222 2. a eee Beh Be 118
1. ‘Qualtty of the Corks;. .v>. eee cee 119

2. Of Securing the -Corksjo.0s. . Tee eee eee zb.

3 Of Piling the Bottless. . 22 “se eee eee 25.
XIV. Of the Mizture of Wines...... ob een eer bee aie 120
XV. Of the Degenerations and Alterations of Wine,.. 122
1. “Of Roping, . 2020 is 0656s. os ce ee ee See ease ab.

2. Of Acidity, Se5-2 ai: 5.0: 0.02. eee eet 123

3. (Of ‘Buierness;.....: . 2p ee eecess 124

CONTENTS.

Pace

4, Loss of Colour or Turbidness,....+...220.000 124
ROME EI RMIAIEE ald oe ain do gic acini < Sie 2 a2 35° sic eats 125

6. Of Mustiness,........ (2 ARO SA BRR BR 126

Se LAS ae ee a 2b.

ee MRE MAIENE a aicia! «nia ainiaia <ain'n ia a 4/5 4) = © <P Peet 127

BOOK FOURTH. -
Or Branpies.

1. Of the Selection of Wines,...+..0--+---. “gees 129
Il. Economical Method of Distulsiton,......-+.+0- 131
iil. Variowg Sorts of Brandy, ....2.c0ccesess cece 133
IV. Directions for Attending to the Still,.......... 134
V. eagnt cp ie teieicfa nin ceo dc <clcsceuive ce «4 137

BOOK FIFTH.

Domestic Usts oF tHe VINE Crop.

Cuar. |. Uses of the Leaves and the Sap, .....eeeeesee. 14
II. Wamestee Uses ap the (Vans i0 « « = -0\nis, << 0 oaeieas4 « 142
Til. Various Uses of the Must,...... rt stata cial qa siaiaiste 145
IV. Various Sorts of Made-wines,.......+.-.+++.+. 148
1. Made-wines,........... siete atla' a mistatstaie Saal ae ai 2b.
UR MANR RAE VRRM OS oo! 0) claim's a claseaviavoid aca,eiais oy claie- oaks 149
RRR IM-IEROS OO hs sitt ala Hai stulnie via ered eae sen. 150
4. Sparkling Wines... ..+ccceresencecs Stel fai crm aia = 151
Si SEER onli e win warain ain 2 4m « sink sie) sig sistance ota'e 2b.
Go Rape Wine «cnn as cee ne SEDER REC OUEr Oe COREE 152
Crap. V. TIRE ET CGT oR es eee CCE ECT oe oe
Domestic Vinegar....2..+++. Be ore. CR OrCOEE ab.
BESEEMEA SU CHERAT, oo sis pn tialaia e Shon a ce 3 coerce. 154
Aromatic Vinegar....--.. Ae hrc Core Ber Cmrme
Sallad Vinegar......0...:-. AOR RRC ECE Rb oce MERE ie
Vinegar Syrup.....++...: BOE COR ere BAe Cae 2b.

BOOK SIXTH, AND LAST.

Brief hints on the diseases incidental to the Vine-Dresser.. 155
Explanation of the Plate......+.+ eb ec bot C3
Vine Shears @erareccreneosetOvne e208 epee e ee severe 2h,

CONTENTS.

Quentin Durand’s Girdler....ceccccesescesseree i.
Bettinger’s Cutting Nippers.c.ccscccceeesseess il.
Acher’s Machine for Crushing the Grape....... 1b.
Guerin’s Machine for Crushing the Grape... .. iii
Syphon for file Casks _-..>--paeaee ee ee +> ah
Syphon or Funnel for Emptying Bottles...... » a.

VINE-DRESSER’S

THEORETICAL & PRACTICAL MANUAL,

&c. &c.

CHAPTER I.

HISTORY OF THE VINE.

The plant that bears the grape is one of those that has been for
many centuries under the closest cultivation. It was first dissemi-
nated over the earth by the Ethiopic colonies ; from the Ethiopians
the Arabians received it, and from the latter it passed into Judea.
Then following the coast of the Mediterranean it flourished in E-
gypt, Syria, the shores of Ionia, Greece, Spain and Italy. The above-
stated progression of the vine is drawn from the most authentic cir-
cumstantial evidence.

All knowledge of the first application of the vine to its present ob-
ject is denied us ; of that, as of every useful invention necessary to our
actual comforts, we enjoy the benefits, without concerning ourselves
about the benefactor. Ifwe must assign some probable period for the
discovery, we will place it as far back, as the very first cultivation
of the earth by tillage. The vine, in the very birth of society, must
have been an object of importance sufficient to fix the attention, and
arouse the industry of man. Mythology availed itself of this ignorance
of the first adoption of the vine, to give it a miraculous origin, and to
form fabulous accounts of the period, circumstances, and uses of the
discovery.

We should like to be able to say who it was that introduced it into
France, and at what date. But those who have busied themselves
with the antiquities of Gaul, can only draw vague conjectures from
the contradictory accounts of Greek and Latin writers. According

10

to Pliny (Hist. Nat. lib. xii. cap. 1.) the first who made known the
vine and its juice, and the advantages of its cultivation, was a Helve-
tian, named Helicon, who having made his fortune at Rome, wished,
on leaving Italy, to enrich his own country, and those parts of Gallia
he should pass through, with the knowledge of this precious plant.
Plutarch and Livy, on the contrary, affirm that it was aTuscan emi-
grant, who in revenge for his exile and expatriation intoxicated some
Gaulish chieftains with the finest Italian wines ; and by this tempta-
tion engaged them and their armed tribes to undertake the pillage
and sack of Rome, and possess themselves of the Peninsula. The
opinion of Cicero seems more to the purpose ; he thinks the introduc-
tion of the Vine due to the interchanges brought about by commerce ;
a sentiment confirmed by Varro, Strabo and Julius Cesar. Diodorus
of Sicily tells us the same, and that in the most positive manner.
Justin is another witness in its favor; he declares that the Phocian
colony of Marseilles brought with them to their asylum from tyranny,
the Vine, which they had cultivated at home with such signal success.

What or when its origin, at least we are certain that from the first
of its appearance in France, the cultivation spread into every dispo-
sable corner, wherever a fitting soil and exposure, and active arms and
spirits were to be found. Its rapid adoption and progress excited the
jealousy of Rome, who, under pretence of preventing the recurrence
of famine, decreed that the vine-yards should be turned into wheat
fields; and by a second edict, aimed directly at this merciless object,
ordered a general grubbing up of the Vine throughout the territories
of Gaul. This took place A. D. 92. It was so rigorously executed _
that the inhabitants were obliged to resort to metheglin, beer, and
fermented drinks, such as had been in use before the introduction of
the grape. This inroad on private rights was not committed with
impunity. The yeomanry, whose sturdy arms draw from the soil the
nourishment of a country, are prompt to resist the tyranny that would
grind them to the earth; they are not patient abiders of the yoke and
fetter. ‘The ferocious Domitian, who had decreed the extirpation of
the Vine, was forewarned of his fate in the following distich ; “ When
thou shalt have gnawed me down to the root, (says the Vine to the
goat browsing among her branches ) I still shall bear fruit enough for
a libation to be poured at the immolation of our Emperor.”

TI repeat it, the prevention of dearth was only a pretence made use
of to render Gaul entirely tributary to Italy, and to take from her the
high reputation she had gained by her wines, which were in request
among the most distant nations; for the edict was kept in force for
two centuries. It was not until A. D. 2x2 that Probus restored the

11

culture to our ancestors. The restoration was one long festival of
rejoicings, and every possible display of exuliation. Soldiers, old men,
women, and children, all united in the delightful labour of regenera-
ting the richest resource of the land. All seemed possessed with a
spontaneous eagerness to help in the task of breaking up the soil;
grubbing out the decayed, useless stocks ; ; digging trenches, and set-
ting out the hill-sides, once more, with the cherished and long regret-
ted plant. From the testimony of contemporary annalists, it was a
festive sight to witness the population of whole villages, swarming
forth into the fields, and beating the ground with frolicsome dances,
making the air ring with songs and shouts, and in the midst of the
frankest merriment, restoring to the glebe, the plant which had been
forbidden to decorate it with its grateful shade and rich fertility for so
long a revolution of seasons.

From that period, the vine, which had never been cultivated north
of the Cevennes, spread along the banks of the Rhone, the Saone, and
even to the shores of the Seine, the Marne, the Moselle, the Scheldt
and the Rhine ; becoming an object to the great land owners as well
as to the petty proprietor and cultivator.

The wild and baleful expeditions to the East, in the twelfth and
thirteenth*centuries, brought us from Cyprus, Alexandria, Corinth
and Palestine, grape-vine slips of an excellent species, till then un-
known to us. They were planted at the foot of the Pyrennees, and
from them we have the wines of Frontignac, Lunel, Rivesaltes, and
others.

The Vine continued to extend over every part of France, and threw
open a rich department to commerce. But in 1556, a new proscription
arrested it. It was said that it drew attention from tillage ; and that
vineyards encroached on the proportion of ground that should be dedi-
cated to the plough and the reaping-hook. The vines were again torn
up, and the hills laid bare of their embowering verdure. Eleven years
after the law was revcked; and the Vine was allowed free growth
until the beginning of the eighteenth century, when agriculture being
depreciated and debased by the heavy taxes and imposts of the times,
and the low esteem in which the most useful class of the country was
held, all sorts of cultivation languished ; the blame of which was laid
on the luxuriant and teeming vineyards, lovely with fertility in spite
of neglect. A royal decree forbade the setting out of new slips, or the
giving the least care to such as had been out of training for two
years, under penalty of a fine of $600 (3000 franks.) Far from reme-
dying the evil, it only added to the sum of misery and distress, as is
ever the case with proscription, that blindest and most headlong of

12
measures ; indeed, no interdict ever yet proved wholesome or salutary
that was laid on any branch of commerce ; and agriculture, the nurse
of traffic, can least be expected to thrive, without a latitude and
encouragement being given her, so wide and so thorough, that she
has no obstacle or thwart to abide, save those disasters of the seasons
of which Providence is the sole judge and giver.

The revolution of 1789, which restored to each owner of the soil the
full exercise of his discretion over his own rightful possessions, has
put an end for ever to the mischievous system of restraints and restric-
tions, and taught that private advantage is public interest. Industry
is now free to create and continue resources of wealth, without fear
of the bugbear of national evil. This liberal system of legislation gives
us the power of satisfying the home market for consumption, and
producing an adequate supply for exportation ; an advantage of which
we can scarcely be again deprived, even should the iniquitous intent
enter the conception of some foe to social rights.

CHAPTER II.

The Vine belongs to the natural order, Sarmentos@, a family of
plants with stem-like branches. The class is pentandria monogynia ;
leaves alternate, palmated, five lobed, more or less distinctly incised
or dentated: green or blueish ; with flowers in clusters, opposite to
the leaves, supported by a common peduncle, which turns a to tendril
ifthe blossom fails. The flowers are small, greenish ; the calyx very
small, whole and five toothed ; the corolla is formed of five deciduous
petals, sometimes united together at their summits like a crown, and
shed without being disunited. The stamens are five in number, oppo-
site to the petals ; their filaments subulate (bent like an awl ) and sup-
porting simple anthers. No style; stigmata sessile (close set) ina
five-chambered ovary. This ovary becomes a round or oval berry,
juicy, unilocular when ripe, with five stony seeds, two, three, or four
of which are abortive.

The fruit is only borne on the shoots of the year, and generally at
the fifth, sixth and seventh joint ; so that if the seventh joint has made
its appearance without sign of fruit, none need be expected from that
shoot.

The species or varieties of the vine are very numerous. Their
names must long remain ob-cure and empirical, in a measure ; for the
labor of arranging them in some regular nomenclature is greater than
can be imagined ; it can only be accomplished by the concurrence of
agricultural societies. It has been attempted for the vineyard of Ar-
bois ( Jura ) by Dumont, corresponding member of the Linnean Soci-
ety of Paris; and in Spain for the Vines of Andalusia, by a distin-
guished and learned naturalist, Dn. Simon Rojas Clemente; their
works only convince us how long we must be condemned to wait for
the completiun of this interesting portion of the history of the Vine.
The same names are attached frequently to distinct varieties ; and
often, the one variety is so altered or detoriated by different modes of
cultivation, soil and exposures, that it cannot be known by the name.
To obtain a clear summary of these varieties some certain rules or

14

designations should be chosen, and the value of the characteristics
taken to calculate upon, should be fixed and established.

The roots are partly penetrating, partly running, and thickly fring-
ed with capillary threads. ‘The stem is cylindrical, thin in proportion
to its length, and requires support. When young, the stem is more
or less strongly divided and marked by joints or bends. A single
plant of the vine is sometimes termed a slip, sometimes a stock ; the
latter name is more particularly given to that part of the vine which
answers to the trunk in trees; in the wild state, there is no certain
rate of length or thickness, both seeming to depend on accident ; but
they are regulated by the vine-dresser, according to his mode of cul-
tivation. The stock when young, is covered with a green or tawny
bark, which becomes brown with age ; it is uneven in thickness, and
irregular in adherence to the wood ; most frequently seamed and split
iengthwise, and loosened from the wood inlong, narrow layers or over-
lapping parcels, which are in the end entirely started and swept away
by the wind and rain. In cold countries the bark is more compact,
and more even.

From the stock or trunk, spring the shoots or branches, stem-like,
sometimes forked, smooth; of a reddish grey in the woody fibre, and
green in the herbaceous portion ; their number very various, and the
length indeterminate, only, that those growing upward, are shorter
than the lateral shoots which run horizontally ; and these again are
shorter than the lowermost, which trail on the ground. The thick-
ness is generally proportionate to that of the stock or trunk. In the
shoots of the season, or yearling branches, the pith fills the whole ring
of the woody part; the next year the wood is thicker and the pith
less; the third year, there is only a trace of pith, and in the fourth
year the weod is solid.

The short twigs springing from the principal branches, are termed
secondaries or second-shoots ; if the sap be poor and ‘scanty, there will
be, on the shoots, many buds or beads which perhaps do not unfold at
all; but if the juices of the plants are plentiful and vigorous, the sap
swells and drives all these buds into second-shoots of considerable
length, which bear fruit as well as the shoots proper. Young vines,
and those that have been topped by any accident; are liable to bear a
great many of these second-shoots.

On: the shoot we find the leaves, the fruit, in bunches opposite the
leaves, and the tendrzls by which it clings to other objects to support
itself. Sometimes the shoot terminates in a small bunch, the berries
of which are small, crowded, and generally round:

The leaves are mostly largest nearest the stock, and diminish in

a

i5

size towards the extremity of the shoot. The more the leaves are
sharply lobed, the less they preserve the orbicular figure. ‘The ribs
are very large and distinct, and sometimes have the same tawny or
reddish tinge as the leaf-stalk: The tendrils or czrrhi are a filamen-
tous growth, an elongation of vessels of the shoot. They are rarely
stationed at random, but generally opposite tothe leaf; they are branch-
ed or forked according to the strength of the species, the nature of
the stock, or the vegetative powers of the shoot. They may be con-
verted into fruits-talks by the following simple operation. When
branched or forked, the smallest or weakest. prong must be nipped off
closely and neatly ; three or four days after, on the prong that is left,
small buds will make their appearance, which increase and produce
well-formed bunches, and mature into excellent grapes. This experi-
ment was made for the first time in 1817, by M. Ristelhuber of Stras-
burg, and has been repeated by a great number of gardeners and
vinedressers, and always with perfect success.

The berry is round or oval, varies in size and hue, being lighter or
darker, of a blackish purple, foxy red or green, white or golden yellow.
The colour is principally confined to the skin, which is thin, leathery
or coriaceous; the pulp and the juice are very colourless, even in
black grapes. The delicate bloom which coats the berry when ripe, is
a symptom of maturity worthy of strict notice, according to Garidel
and Estevan Boutelon. Each berry is attached to a fruit-stem or foot-
stalk, which springs from the main peduncle or stem of the bunch ;
the assemblage of main and minor stems and berries, constitutes the
bunch.

The aroma of the Vine when in flower is highly prized in the East,
and thought to possess incredible virtues, It has a very volatile and
penetrating fragrance.

These general characteristics of the Vine, are suchas are least
known to vary or admit of change ; they are therefore taken as fixed
points, on which to append our descriptions of the several sorts and
varieties that are found the most profitable for cultivation.

1. EARLY BLACK MORILLON

Morillon Noiy Hatif.

Of this grape three are two kinds ; the one is indigenous and is
generally called the Magdalen grape; the other is exotic, and the
cultivation of it has only of late years attracted attention. It is known
by the appellation of the Ischian or thrice bearing vine.

16

The Magdalen kind is, according to some, a native of Italy; it has
a lower, shorter stock than most other kinds; the leaves are small,
and also the bunches, which are very compact ; the berry is not large,
and is roundish; the skin leathery, of a black purple, witha high
bloom ; the pulp greenish, slightly sugared, and almost insipid. It ri-
pens by the end of July, or at farthest by the beginning of August,
which is its only advantage. It figures on the tables of such as pride
themselves on early fruit, and has no other merit than that of flatter-
ing the pride of a fantastical taste. It requires a loose, red soil, expo-
sed to the south. It has erroneously been asserted to bear three crops
in a favourable season, by the aid of judicious pruning ; but the thing
is impossible. The kind to which Virgil alludes, (Geor. II.) and which
Pliny, (Hist. Nat.) calls trifera, thrice-bearing, imsana, mad vine, is
successfully cultivated by M. Borghers, of Lumigny, (Seine and
Marne; ) and since 1812, he has distributed a great number of scions
and cuttings. This kind is very vigorous, and yields, from the fourth
year of its setting out, an abundance of excellent grapes, provided it
be not pruned too close, and lopped too short. Owing to its great vi-
gour and tendency to luxuriance, it is necessary to allow, after the
second pruning, a considerable length to the wood or stock. When
this vine has attained its fourth year, the first crop, which is the lar-
gest, ripens in the 45th parallel of latitude, in a southern exposure,
from the 15th to the 20th of August; the second crop ripens from the
25th September to the 5th October ; and the third, which is merely a
demonstration, from the 25th October to the 10th November, if not
caught by the early frosts. The two latter crops are the result of
pruning ; the end of a shoot is cut off, two or three joints beyond the
last bunch, just as the blossom has fallen, and the berry is moulded ;
that is, from the 15th to the 20th of June. New branches or second-
shoots immediately spring from the joints that are left, and unfold the
clusters of the second crop; as soon as the blossom of this latter is
shed, the previous operation of pruning is repeated on these second
shoots ; and soon after, but less rapidly than upon the first operation,
the third crop appears, which it were better never to prune for in high
latitudes, as it is very scanty and seldom succeeds to reach maturity.

This plant requires a soft soil essentially light, and rich in vegetable
mould. During drought it should be at times watered. A southern
exposure and espalier training are rigorously indispensable to obtain
the three crops in the northern departments of France.

It seems that it is a native of the isle of Chios, whence it was car-
ried to Calabria and the island of Ischia, where it is called Uva di tre
volte anno. The berry is very sweet, of a highly agreeable flavour,

17

and with all the qualities requisite for furnishing a very fine wine.
We would invite the attention of cultivators of the Vine to this spe-
cies, recommending a trial of it in situations where it is difficult to
ripen the grape. If the wine itself should not be even equal to beer.
or cider, the grape itself would be one resource the more at harvest
time, and for the tables of the poor. .

Many writers have confounded this fine variety with the ae edie ,
to which it has no points in common, save color and early ripenin
To prove the error, I shall state the following facts.

Under the same tilling, training and pruning as the Ischian grape,
the Magdalen grape for several successive years, gave always an early
yield, but only the single crop the season; while the Ischian gave
three crops in 1822, and only two perfectly ripe in 1823—24, which
were unfavourable seasons. In 1825 the vine exceeded all expecta-
tion: slips trained in espalier gave an abundant crop, full ripe, the
18th August; the 20th September, the splendid second growth was
dead ripe, and the fruit fuller and larger than the first; while at the
same period, the berries of the third crop had filled and were begin-
ning to ‘turn, and the fourth crop was in blossom. The latter ripened
on the 30th October; it was very abundant, tolerably handsome, and
slightly acidulous; and the berries were of the size of small peas.

This vine, cultivated in the open field, with its branches wound
around strong posts, four feet in height, produced in 1825, on the 10th
September, a first crop which was in every view magnificent ; and
the 30th October a second crop perfectly ripe, and quite abundant ;
but the bunches were small.

9. THE MILLER’S GRAPE.

pe ge as
: e, oe

é The Miller’s grape is the earliest to ripen of any ; it is easily known
from all the other varieties, by the greyness of the leaves, which, es-
pecially in the spring, are covered with a thick, silky, whitish down.
It will thrive in a very meagre soil, and is not tender to the frost ; but
if nipped, it does not renew the blossom that season. The bunch-
es are thick and short; the berries rather crowded, round, large, of a
very pale yellow, and a sweet, agreeable flavour. The wine is passa-
bly good. This grape is very generally cultivated in all vine-yards,
and has one advantage attending it, that it is not subject to the Blight,
or barrenness of the blossom. %

3. THE BLACK BURGUNDY.
Le Bourguignon noir.

The sort generally known by this name, is sometimes called franc
Pineau, Farinau, Noirier, Auvernas. 'The leaf is coated with a cot-
ton-like down, is blunt at the summit and but slightly lobed. The
woody-fibre, the leafstalks and even the stems of the bunches are of a
deep, dark-red hue. The bunch is not over thick, is blunt-shaped and
not very compact; the berries oval, of a high coloured claret, and ri-
pening uniformly. Itis but a poor table fruit, but is highly prized for
wine ; and indeed is the staple kind for that object in France. It re-
quires a light, sandy or siliceous soil, and an eastern or western expo-
sure. It stands the frost very well. The wine is rich, keeps well, and
has an agreeable bouquet. The only draw back of this sort, is, that it
is not a thrifty bearer; the crops are small, and frequently, are only
yielded every other year.

%

4. THE TINTO GRAPE.

Le Tetnturier.

The wood and stems of this kind, are redder even than the preced-
ing variety. It is sometimes called Large Gamet, Noireau, ( Oliver
de Serres says Nigrier ) Large Black, or Spanish Black. Its leaves
are very remarkable by their high tinge of red. The bunch is short ;
the berries crowded; and of a dark crimson colour, middling large,
and very juicy. They are used to colour the must of other sorts ; the
wine made from them alone, without the addition of other grapes, is
flat, harsh and ill-flavoured; but can be rendered more lively by the
admixture of the juice of the common white grape. Spring frosts
are very severe upon it. It seems easily suited in soils and exposures.
The grape is unfit for the table, being sourish, harsh and hard.

5. SMALL GAMET.

Le petit Gamet.

his variety of the Black Morillon thrives best in a strong loam,
and any exposure will agree with it, though a northern one is the best.

ig

The leaves are pointed, divided into three distinct lobes, of a pale
green. Late spring frosts affect it; but when nipped, it sends out a
second crop of blossoms. The grape matures easily, and makes a
passably good red wine. It bears well; but the stock requires frecuent
renewing by layering, as it does not last many years.

G. PEARL GRAPE.

Le Raisin perle. :

The leaves are dentated, lobed, of a bright green; the bunches loose,
the fruit-stems very green; the berries of quite unequal sizes, but
mostly not large ; oval, of a pale pearly green, and full of a rich, su-
gared juice. This variety is the staple of a great proportion of the
vineyards. It likes a substantial loam, calcarious or marly, with a
declivity to the ground. Humidity is most injurious to it during the
blossoming ; spring and fall frosts are both highly prejudiciable to it ;
if once nipped, it does not bear again until the second year after. The
grape when full ripe is slightly musky, and the wine it makes, whether
white, pale, or red, is generous and excellent. The marmalade too is
very rich and fragrant. This variety does not require frequent lay-
ering; and when under the pruning knife, the cutting should be
made on intermediary shoots, and those not the strongest ones, which,
according to their strength, are allowed one or two large doublings or
bends, without any fear of their running out toa too great length.

7. BLUE GIRKIN.

Cornichon violet.

The leaves are very large and but slightly scolloped or lobed; the
bunches are small and scantily filled; the grapes long, largest at the
base and rather curved or hooked at the apex, like young cucumbers.
The proportion of their length to their breadth is as 2 or 3: to I.
When ripe they are sometimes entirely blue ; but they oftener remain
sreen at one end, which is generally the largest. This is the case in
the neighbourhood of Paris where it is hard to find the Blue Girkin
perfectly ripe. There is a white variety of the same fruit which ma-
tures more easily. The wine of this sort is hard, and requires to be
sweetened by a mixture of milder grapes. It thrives ina strong soil,
well open to the south.

8. WHITE GRISEY

Le Griset blanc.

The leaf has a lively light green hue and is so slightly lobed, that at
first view it appears entire. The bunch is small, of very irregular
form, and composed of round berries, crowded together, greyish green
in colour, palatably sweet and of a highly agreable aromatic flavour.
The white wine made.from it is highly esteemed, and is reckoned the
third best in France ; it is very alcoholic and must be drunk in mode-
tation ; it has much body, is mellow, clear, and the bouquet very
sensible. The White Griset requires a gravelly soil, situated aslope
and exposed to the heat. .

Pa

=
9. WHITE MORILLON.

Le Morillon blanc.

The White Morillon or* Beaunier, has a large leaf, which is of a fine
lively green on the upper surface, white ‘and cloth-like on the lower ; A
and the five lobes are separated by shallow, irregular scollops. The
bunches are rather long and composed t of distinct clusters ; the berries
are not very thick set, roundish, and ‘middling sized; of a whitish
steen, mottled with white and pale yellow ; the pulp soft and sugary.
The fruit ripens easily : is fine for the table and for wine. It thrives
best on a clayey slope of ground, inclining to the west 3 the south.
When pruned, the pollard-stems are generally left long eno h te
a large bend. The wine keeps well; and the grapes may be ke P
through the season.

. * >
° ; ik %; 4":
10. WHITE MORNAIN. ale; aw,
- ont
Le Mornain blanc. %

The White Mornain greatly resembles the White Chasselas in the
bulk and shape of the bunch and the set of the berries, which are not
crowded, are very round and of a pale yellow colour. They become
tanned on the sunny side in the same manner ; the must is sweet and
well tasted; the frut ripens easily even m the north. This kind is

wi

known in some Vineyards under the names of White, Green and
Black Melier. The White Melier is preferable to the Black or Green
though the latter isa great bearer, but slightly ever subject to the
Blight of the blossom, and never takes the Yellows. It is found very
profitable to plant it along with white vines.

lj. THE Muscat.

Le Muscat.

The Muscat is generally preferred as a table-grape ; very little wine
is made of it, even at Rivesaltes, ( Eastern Pyrennees,) at Frontignan
and Lunel, (Herault.) The grapes are round, firm, and very large;
mostly very much crowded on the cluster, and of a very pleasant
musky flavour. There are White, Red, Black, and Blue varieties.

The overgrown bunch of the White Muscat is very long, narrow
and round at the point. The grapes are so thick set, that they re-
quire to be thinned to ripen well. They are firm, and brittle under
the teeth ; and are of a light green colour, amber-yellow on the sun-
ny side. The pulp is white, with a blue eye, and a strong flavour of
musk. 1t does not ripen easily as far north as the environs of Paris:
The wine made from it has much body, and a decided taste of the
fruit, with a most fragrant bouquet ; and it gains by age.

The Red Muscat has a less crowded cluster, and shorter bunch ;
the quite globular berry takes a bricky hue, or a pale mottle, where
shaded ; the sunny side is blue or purple. :

The Black Muscat is known by the slender cluster, loosely studded
with berries, which are very round, smaller and less musky than the
preceding ; the skin black, downy, or of a black purple. The pulp
is ted next the skin. This grape ripens easily, and by some, is highly
esteemed.

The Alexandrian Muscat, has the leaf smaller and more indented
than the other varieties: The clusters are very bulky and full of
long, large, oval berries, about an inch in length, of a light green,
slightly ambered or gilt, firm, brittle to the teeth, and of a musky,
-agreeable savour. The berries have often but one stone, sometimes
none. The fruit keeps a long while; and rarely ripens as far north
as Paris. It should be planted in a strong mould, with an exposure
to the south.

12. THE CHASSELAS.
Le Chasselas. be

This is an excellent grape, fine for the table; and is the one usually
chosen for arbours, trellises and palissades in gardens. It ripens well
under such training, and will keep from the end of September or
beginning of October, during all the fall and winter, even till the
month of May, The bunches are generally large, long, loose, and
formed of several clusters at top; the berries are white, round, firm
and of a size often varying on the same cluster; on the sunny side
they havea fine amber colour. The pulp is very melting, pale green
in colour, and full of a bland sweet juice; the skin, though very deli-
eate, is firm.

The White Chasselas is the most common. There is a black vari-
ety, that is to say, the grapes, as soon as they fill, take a black or
dirty red tinge on their white ground. It isa rich fruit, and by some
preferred to the White Chasselas, but it ripens later. There is also
another Chasselas, with musky fruit, The Musk Chasselas, the flavour
of which is even more exquisite and more remarkable than either of
the two others. The berries are thicker on the bunch than in the
white Chasselas; and are equally round, but more pulpy; the colour
yellowish white. It ripens early where the exposure is warm.

13. CIOUTAT, OR PARSLEY-LEAVED.

Le Cioutat.

Though this is generally looked upon as a simple variety of the
common Chasselas, it differs from it greatly. This sort has small
leaves, very much lobed, divided and laciniate ; the bunches small and
but thinly furnished; the berry smail and soft. I ought to add that
it differs also in every essential, being a grape of a decidedly inferior
quality. It is sometimes called Austrian or Tardaria grape.

14. THE CORINTH.

Le Corinthe.

We have four kinds that go by this name, the White, Blue, Red and
Large Corinth. The White, which is most prized. hasa large slightly

23

laciniate leat, of a clothy texture, deep green on the upper side,
and covered on the under side with a white down. The cluster is
middling thick,short, crowded and thick set with very small round
berries. They ripen in September, are white, with a slight tinge of
yellow ; and the white pulp is very sugary, melting, and extremely
agreeable to the taste. The grape contains no stones; and the rind is
so tender that it is eaten with the fruit.

The Blue Corinth is larger than the White and has also no stones,
butis very apt to bleed. The grape rots so rapidly that in the South-
eastern Departments it has taken the name of Passe or Passerille.
It requires in pruning, to be left longer than other Vines. The Red
Corinth is much liked ; the Large Corinth seems only a variety of the
White Chagselas with a smaller, and less sweet berry.

15. ALEPPO GRAPE.

Le Raisin D’ Alep.

This kind of grape was brought to France during the Crusades ;
and is now completely naturalized. The leaves are dark green and
distinctly lobed ; they become spotted with red and yellow in the fall.
The berries are rather large, and round or oval; some white, others
black, or marbled, or presenting stripes of the two colours on the
same bunch. They have but one stone; and are easy toripen. As
this grape is very subject to the Blight, care is taken in pruning to
leave the shoots long. This stock is a good bearer and durable, but
slow of growth; the wine is good, keeps well, and strengthens all
wines with which it is mixed; making them fiery, and helping to
preserve them.

16. THE GOUAIS.

Le Gouais.

Two kinds of grape bear the name of Gouais or Gouest; one isa
white grape, vulgarly called Verdin blanc, Marmot, and Mouillet; the
other blue, called Gros plant or Plant de Vigneron, Complant de lune,
Gros Tressant ; both are excellent for wine. The cluster is very
large, thick and long ; the berries either roundish, or oblong; moist,
yielding, more green than yellow, rather tasteless and insipid, but al-
most the whole berry dissolves to clear juice. This abundance of

24

must has lead to the preference of the Gouais for wie, wherever
quantity is more an object than quality. Vineyards once set out with
it, last a long time, especially if the White Gouais is the principal
variety used. It likes a loose, open, light, warm soil. The leaf is
heart shaped, the lobes but slightly marked ; both leaves and bark of

the shoots have a reddish brown tinge. Ties 3
3 ‘ wer
17. THE VERJUICE GRAPE. ig
: e- ;
Le Verjus. > .
* ‘

an ee ae

It is known also by the name of Bordelais; the Verjuice pe has
a large stout leaf, slightly divided. The bunch is generally thick,
long, and at the top several secondary bunches or clusters are grouped
together, making of the whole an enormous-looking production. The
berries are middling close, oblong, pointed, of a pale green colour, as
suming a slight degree of yellow whenripe. The skin is tnick, the
pulp firm, of a greenish white, very harsh-tasted at first, but becoming
passably mild towards the middle of October. This grape, which is
not fit for eating unless prepared, is excellent in conserve marma-
lades, and other confections; and is very suitable for the 3 mak
Verjuice. * .

There are three varieties of it, the White, Black and Red. SR
two latter are not in as much regard as the former. They may be
grafted on any stock; they succeed perfectly on those the stock of
which is apt to bleed, such as the Blue Corinth, the Alexandrian Mus
cat, &e. The coolest exposure suits them best.

mas
18. oF OTHER SPECIES & VARIETIES. .

If I were called upon to give here the nomenclature of all the spe-
cies, races, and varieties of the Vine that appear and pass away during
the course of years,and to which this or that canton’or vineyard is
peculiarly attached, I should only run the risk of repeatedly presen-
ting the same plant in the disguise of a new barbarous name, and of
falling into useless details and indifferent digressions. ‘T have found
many names in the books of the last century alone, of which it would
be difficult now to find a single one inuse. And now, under the sin-
gle name of Pinot or Pineau almost every red grape may be f und ‘sO
classed by the Vintagers, without any one being able to answer ¥ r wheth-
er this name, which only suits such sorts as have berries shaped
like the pine-cone. is given by them to the kind to which this name

23

belongs, and which is cultivated m the Departments of the Yonne,
Cote-d’Or, Saone and Loire ; or to that grape which yields the small
wines of Vosges and the flat wines of Haute-Vienne.

Distinctions of the varieties of the Vine must be always obscure and
empirical, since there are as yet, no universal points of agreement on
the real value of the expressions and characters by which they are
designated. And nothing, not even a whole life dedicated to it, would
be as powerful in extricating the history of the Vine from the laby-
rinth of confused names, as the communication of special committees
of every agricultural society, discussing individual researches, and
reducing them all under a uniform nomenclature. Cozumexra, the
wisest and best of Latin natural philosophers, who signalized 58 va-
rieties of the vine*; Crescrenzio, the restorer of Italian agriculture,
who tells of 40, peculiar to the Peninsula, in the third century? ;
Atonzo pe Herrera, who recognized 15 essential differences in the
Vines of Spaint; Dunamet pu Moncerav, who has given so exact a
description of 14 varieties deemed by him peculiar to France§, fur-
nish fine materials ; their treatises form excellent starting points for
the undertaking just indicated.

* De Re rustica, lib. III. cap. 2.

t Opus ruralium commodorum, lib. IV. cap. 3 and 4
t Agricultura generalis, lib. II. cap. 2.

§ Traite des arbres fruitiers, Art. Vigne.

CHAPTER II.

OF THE SOILS AND EXPOSURES SUITABLE TO THE GRAPE.

When we cast a glance at the extreme indigence of the great pro-
portion of the labouring class of the vineyards, we are at first induced to
blame the Vine as an uiprofitable coneern ; but on looking a little
more narrowly to the causes of this want and indigence, we discover
the true reasons. In the first place a heavy impost is levied on the
Vine and also on its liquor; and so arbitrarily laid, that the léast pro-
ductive Vines pay often as much, and even more, than the best ; while
the quality of the wine which gives it its value, does not enter into
the stipulations of the tax. The other causes are, erroneous modes
of cultivation ; such as not taking into calculation the nature of the
soil, the proper exposure, nor the outlays of labour and expense first
requisite ; or not choosing the stock with judgement ; or neglecting
the tillage, pruning, training or other operations necessary for the
perfection of the crop.

High imposts discourage the landed proprietor ; however, the remedy
is easily at hand, in the lessening of these burthens ; but wrong sys-
tems, or negligent processes of cultivation are equally an injury to
the state and to individuals; and both cases duly remedied, this cul-
ture would be the richest of any. If only proper agricultural cares
are resorted to, the returns are ample ones ; as every acre, judiciously
set out, tilled and trained, will yield a nett profit of from 5 to 600
francs (from one to one hundred and twenty dollars.)

The first point to be considered, after the climate is ascertained
to be suitable, is a knowledge of the soil; all climates are not favour
able to the crop ; the Vine, in the North, spends itself in a vigorous
vegetation, but the grape will not ripen sufficiently ; in the South it
has to encounter a long-continued withering heat ; and the qualities of
the fruit essentially degenerate when the plant is watered. The
climate therefore should be one of a temperate character; the Vine
does not prosper except between the 35th and Slst degrees of lati-
tude. Schiraz, a large and populous city of Persia, situated at the

a
D4

foot ef the mountains of Feristan, is thought to be the most southern
position in which it thrives; and Coblentz, at the confluence of the
Rhine and the Moselle, the most northern at which it yields in the
open ground. It is cultivated to the best advantage between the two
points of limit mentioned, between which lie the finest vineyards in
Europe ; such as those of Portugal, Spain, France, Italy, Germany,
Styria, Carinthia, Hungary, Transylvania, and a part of Greece. In
cold countries, by means of vineries, localities may be contrived that
will force the Vine, giving it in summer the degree of heat it receives
in climates naturally adapted to it. These shelters are so managed
as to refract the solar rays in proportion to their directness. The
exposure to the sun has so all-powerful an influence on vegetation,
that it should net be overlooked by the Vine-dresser. A northern
exposure is generally deemed the least suitable ; and an eastern one
would be the best, if it did not expose the plants, in the first early
warm days of spring, to the Blast, from the burning of the sun upon
the small] icicles which act as lenses. A southern exposure is in gene-
ral too hot in the summer; and a western one has least to recom-
mend it, as it throws upon the plant a direct heat, after the early
hours of the day have abstracted its moisture ; and thereby dries and
burns it. Asa general rule in southern regions, an eastern exposure
should be preferred; in northern ones, the Vineyards should face
the South.

Sometimes this rule has its exceptions, owing no doubt to the
face of the country influencing the courses of winds; as for instance.
the splendid Vine- grounds of the Marne and the Hills of Rheims ;
those which supply the rich tuns of Jouy, (Indre et Loire, ); those
of both banks of the Cher ; of Saumur ; of Angers ; &c. are, in general.
open to the northeast, and the greater number face due North. They
are less subject to the disastrous attacks of late frosts in the spring :
and their wines are good, with a delicate and perfumed flavour.

- The Vine can be suited bya variety of soils; but never with any that
are soaked with stagnant or decomposing waters. The kind it prefers
is a dry, light, sandy soil. The vine dressers of the department of
Arriege (at the foot of the Pyrennees ) cultivate it half way up their
highest mountains, in spots quite covered with large smooth stones;
and if they were a little more careful in their manner of making the
pee more choice in their selection of stocks, and more attentive

to tillage and training, they might make their wines equai to those
of Tokay, which are also the growth of Vineyards covered with large
ealearious pebbles, and lying on the highest flanks and ridges of a

28

promontory exposed to the North and West at the confluence of the
Bodrog and Thibisk. There are fat soils, entirely clear of pebbles or
gravel stones, which can be madeto yield very good wine ; such as
the home-made wines of Bellai, in the department of Maine and Loire,
which are generous, strong, finely flavoured, and preferable to those
from the stony knolls in the same department. But notwithstanding
this, fat soils and rich loams are not a proper choice ; experience has
taught us, that the excellence of the wine does not depend on the
luxuriance of the plant; and that dry, light earths should be reserved
for it.

Calcarious earths, especially those of a chalky formation, give a
magnificent crop to the Vine, and the wines are very pure, light and
inviting. Such are the Vineyards of the Marne, the Cher, the Creuse;
those of the Grouets, (Loire and Charente.) The growth is very
slow, it is true, but once well rooted, the advantage is found in the
long run. The more dry, arid, light, and unfit for other crops is the
calcarious soil, the better it turns out for the Vine. The water with
which it becomes impregnated at intervals, circulates and penetrates
freely through the stratum; the innumerable ramifications of the
roots imbibe it at every pore; the culture is easy, so thrifty is every
stock ; and the wine produced is lively.

Earths composed of mouldering granite, the disintegrated parts of
which are nearly reduced into a friable sand, furnish wines fine
coloured, full of zest, and spirit, and of an aromatic flavour, very
agreeable. Such are the Vineyards of Mans, Beaune, Reaucoulle ; of
Muret and Bessas* (township of Tain, department de la Drome ;) of
Cote-Rotic (department du Rhone,) of Mouwlin-a-Vent, (township of
Romaneche, department of Saone and Loire) ; those of Rochemaure,
department of Ardeche ; and those of the shores of the Rhine.

Strong, stiff, or clayey loams are not at all fitted for the Vine ; they
do not allow the roots to spreadand ramify sufficiently; besides which,
the constancy with which the layers of this compact earth are satu-
rated with wet, and retain moisture, keeps up, around the roots, a
permanent humidity, which rots their fibre, and is soon fatal tothe -
slip.

Voleanic grounds, and soils of mouldering tufo and basalt, are fa-
mous for delicious wines ; they offer an intimate mixture of every earthy
principle ; and their semi-vitrified particles, decomposed by the com-
bined action of the air and water, afford all the essentials of a brill-

*More generally known by the name of Hermitage wine; Vin de
UHermitaze.

29

iant vegetation to the plant ; and communicate to its liquor a portion
of the fire by which the soil has been permeated and impregnated.
‘The pest stocks of Italy are those which are planted among the ruins
of volcanoes. The crop of wine from the extinct volcano at the foot
of which the town of 4¢de is built, is one of the richest in the South
of France.

Thus, all light earths, whatever be their colour, that are porous,
fine and friable im their composition, and in which water does not
abide or collect, either on the surface or below, are such as are suit-
able for the plant, and requisite for the quality of the wine.

The knowledge of the soil being acquired, the next question will be,
the situation that should be selected. Some writers have recom-
mended high grounds for the Vine. Bacchus amat colles : says the
Latin proverb, to which they so strictly adhere, that they even de-
clare that the elaboration of the sap cannot be complete, unless upon
acelivities or flanks of hills; and that good wine cannot be raised on
‘plains! And yet,in the face of this, what excellent Vineyards are
there not in plains! Medoc, (department de la Gironde) is wholly a
champaign country ; and there we know, are situated the enclosures
of Lafitte, Chateau Margouz, Leoville, Larose, Branc-Mouton &c.
the wines of which are pure, very high, smooth, velvetty, full of force
and fire, with a flavour like the odour of the violet or the raspberry.
The Vines of Saint-Denis and Sandillon, (department du Loiret,)
and those which give the best Orleans wines, are the growth of plains.
‘The well-known Vineyards of Tonnerre, Chablis, (department de 1,’
Yonne,) Banks of the Rhone, and mostly all those which yield the
wines known in commerce by the name of Vins de Languedoc fins,
are situated on plains also.

Meanwhile I should not forget to say, that in warm countries the
Vine of course, thrives in elevated situations. Abyssinia, Mount Leb-
anon, the highest table lands of Mexico; the up-country in the Caroli-
nas; and the Cordillera over which passes the route from Buenos
Ayres to St. Jago de Chili, bear witness to the fact. The Vine meets
there with a temperature equivalent to the mildest regions.

Rising grounds are as good as any situation, if they ascend by a
- gradual slope and are not surrounded by dense woodlands. Thesum-
mits of hills or ridges, are, on the whole, unfavorable ; they lie open
‘to every change ofthe atmosphere, and every movement of the air
‘is felt upon them; which the Vine cannot bear, as it becomes worn
-and stunted if swept by winds. The fogs too that collect there are

very injurious; and there is no shelter on them from white frosts,

30

which are very fatal. The ground lying in swales, or at the base of
rising grounds, has also its inconveniences ; the soil is naturally con-
tinually saturated with humidity ; and the air is loaded with damp.
The skirts of hills when not too sudden in descent, and slopes gra-
dually swelling from a plain, are the true positions for the Vine.

Good stocks are rarely to be found in narruw vales, rayines, or
dells, through which a stream of water flows, en account ef the winds
and currents of cold air daily prevalent in such places; and the
fog-damp and mists incessantly maintained by the evaporation. But
we must not, from this fact, conclude that no good Vine can be raised
beside running water;as some agriculturists believe. A stream
adjacent is dangerous only, when the slopes that verge to it are not
open and free to the solar action. The wines of the Rhone, Gi-
ronde and Marne witness to this fact.

The direct action of the sun is one essential. It is this powerful
agency alone, that can mature the high qualities of the grape;
eyery tree therefore that may interpose a shade and exhaust the soil
should be cleared away. In some places, where frosts are apt to
fall upon the Vines, a custom prevails of planting the Vineyards with
trees, suchas the peach, apple, olive, nut, cherry, &c. which is wrong,
though we may mention by the way the year 1797, in which every
stock in the departments of L’ Yonne and Cote-d‘Or, that was not
sheltered by trees, was frozen. The principle, notwithstanding this
anomaly, is rigorously exact ; if we are anxious that the grape should
attain its full ripeness and saccharine properties, on which its value
and utility depend. Large plants deduct both light and heat from
the Vine ; the least hurtful are the peach, almond and olive trees.

Itsometimes happens in very superior vine-grounds, that m some
of the most suitable situations for the Vine, there are spots where
wines of a very poor quality are gathered elose beside those of the best.
Such, for instance, is the small Vineyard of Mont Rachet, (dept.
Cote d’Or;) it is distinguished by three divisions, separated from
each other only by a narrow path, and termed, Canton de l’Aine,
Canton-Chevalier, Canton-Batard. Though the exposure of allis en
tirely the same ; though the nature of the soil, at least, as for the Jay-
ers next.to the surface, is also the same in all; and that the stocks, all
of the same species, receive the same tillage and culture; and the
grapes are subjected to the same processes of fabrication ; still it is
an undeniable fact, that the wine of Mont Rachet-Aine, possesses
every requisite ef a finished wine; having body, mueh spirit and
heighth, a very pleasant nutty taste. and especially a fine zest and a

7
a

Go

bouquet, the strength and sweetness of which distinguish it above

every wine of that department; while that of the Rachet-Chevalier

does not posses those qualities in the same degree ; and scarce any of
them are found in the Rachet-Batard. This difference is owing, of
course, to the nature or position of the inferior strata or beds of the

soil; or, to tell the truth, it would be hard to assign the right cause.

But for my own part, I am persuaded that it results from the lower

layers, over which the tillage has no effect; forthe utensils we use

cannot be exerted to a greater depth than 3 feet, without a consider-

able expense, that may be useless, and in most cases beyond the
means of the Vine-dresser. In such cases it must be that the stratum
of cultivable soil is but shallow, with some rock or bed of clay be-
neath it, impermeable to the roots. It might be of service therefore.
te pierce from space to space deep holes with an auger, to give the
tap and running roots convenient entrances into which they might
insinuate themselves, to seek in the heats of summer and times of
drought for the proper decree of moisture, requisite for the thriving
ef + eg said

CHAPTER IV.

THE CULTURE OF THE VINE. arr +%

The greater number of those thi have written on the —" have
contented themselves with simply describing the culture in
their own quarters; and from that deduced principl
which they want to see applied as general rules fo
There are, indeed, general principles which may be
eases ; but every soil and every position, we may even say,
ner of the same hectare, demands some difference in the planting
lage, or manuring, with regard to the ground, its direction, natu
bottom, exposure, and a crowd of accidental circumstances. T
proprietor soon learns to calculate these chances dnd apply regular
rules to them: and it is his province ‘to discern between those =
may prove useful and those which are defective.

But there is one great question to be resolved on the mode of cul-
ture: it is one of importance, as the ripening of the grape depends
upon it; it is on the height to which the stock should be trained.
Some prefer that it should be kept tall, and spiry; others low and
running. To ascertain which is right, we must examine without pre-
judice, well appreciating the real motives of both parties ; after which
I shall give the result of my own observation, supported by the expe-
rience of several proprietors, men of sense and instruction.

OF THE TALL-STOCK, OR RUNNING VINE.

The mode of cultivating the vine by festooning and supporting it
on trees and palissades comes to us from the ancient Romans; it
is still peculiar to Upper Italy; and to the departments of Isere,
Drome, Alpes, Basses Pyrennes, Bas-Rhin, Charente-Inferieure, and
Arriege, which received it from the first Roman Colonies. The man-
ner is this; either one or two vine slips are set out near a mulberry,
cherry, elm or maple: if only one, it entwines its long’stems among

o3

ihe boughs of the tree ; and, together, they form a close shrubby cop-
pice; the grapes, hidden under the thick mass of leaves, are generally
green, and uninviting in taste, because deprived of the action of the
sun; the wine made from them is thin, poor and acerb, wanting both
sugar and spirit. When there are two slips, they rise together to the
fork, and then are divided and led off to neighbouring trees in oppo-
site directions.* This fashion is better than the former for ripening
the grape; and the intermediary ground is devoted to grain or pulse.
This method is very pleasing to the eye, but is rarely practised with
intelligence and discrimimation. The trees are ordinarily too close
and cast too much shade. There is, besides, some danger attending
the culture ; among the Romans there was an express stipulation al-
ways made between the proprietors and vine-dressers, that if the
latter, in pruning, should fall and lose their lives, the former should
be at the expense of the burial. Besides, the grapes on the very sum-
mit of the tree are the only ones that make good wine; the lower
branches are more loaded with clusters, but the wine, though abun-
dant, is coarse. =

There are some parts where, in place of trees, they make, use
of tall props 8 or 9 feet in height, of reasonable thickness, and with
ene or more forks or rests. They are placed as far asunder as their
height ; and the branches of the Vines are thrown along them from
one to the other, in tiers, forming festoons delightful to the eye,
and giving to the fields an air of opulence. This mode is in vogue
-at Saint Thierry (department de la Marne) and is very costly ; but
the grape ripens well, it is so exposed to the air and sun. It can
only be made use of in strong, substantial soils.

In some places, parficularly at Weissenbourg (department du Bas-
Rhine) the Vine is trained over arbours; aud in others, it is paled up
against walls of various heights. The arbour-training suits gardens,
but still it were better set aside, for the clusters are too much kept
from the sun, and the height at which they are borne exposes them
to the chilling infiuence of the winds. The method only answers
where there are yery heavy dues after hot days, exposing the fruit to
mildew.

2. Or THE Low sTock.
The low training is derived from the Grecians, and was introduced

into France by the Phocian colony of Marseilles. From the South
the Vine has spread over our country even into Beleium, and with it

: Among the Romans, one tree was made to bear as many as ten
slips, and never lessthen three. Colwmella, de re rustica, lib. V. cap. 4.
Plin. Hist. Nat. XVI. 23. The trees were placed 20 feet anart.

a 3)

34

the prevailing method of the low stock has been adopted; and it seems
the most natural, and is the most easy and advantageous.

It has undergone many different modifications, however ; sometimes
the plants are supported on props from 1 to 3 feet high; again the
whole Vine is trailing, one stem laying over another; or the stock
is kept so short that it stands alone, and the branches trail ; otherwise,
some slender poles or stakes are stuck into the ground around the
plant, forming a circle, around which circle the stems are led and fas-
tened. In the departments of Bouches-du-Rhone, Gard, Herault,
Aube, and indeed in almost all the most southerly ones, the slips
are kept very far apart, and their stock, which bears the yearling
wood, is allowed about two feet of heighth, clear of branches. These
are called running Vines. In the environs of Grenoble, Lyons, Au-
tun, Auxerre, Troyes, Orleans, Agen, Albo, Cahors, in all Medoc,
and even in some Vineyards of Rheims and Laon, the Vines
are fastened to low trellises, either in rows very wide apart, or a
trellise to each stock, but both raised only about 1 foot above the
ground. 7

On the hills near the burgh d’ Argence (department du Calvados)
and alsoin the environs of Rochelle, no props are used, and the Vines
lie on the ground till the fruit is nearly ripe; then the ends of the
branches are gathered together and tied, and the whole forms a heap,
on which the grapes are outwards ; they are thus exposed to the sun,
but the wine is scanty and of acommon sort. The young Vines of
Bordeaux, Lyons, Angers, &c. which used to be kept in this man-
ner are now tied against a prop, because the shoots are very long,
and have not strength enough to support themselves.

CounTER-ESPALIER TRAINING.

Roger Schabol, who was so well versed in the art of gardening,
isthe inventor of this system, which is now adopted in a great many
of our departments. It consists in disposing the plants in parallel
rows, athwart, so that they may enjoy the sun equally. The train-
ing is performed at the third or fourth year from the setting out, in
counter-espalier mode; strong posts, four feet high, are planted in
straight lines, the rows six feet apart; about mid-high on these
posts, and running from one end to the other of the row; there is
arange of slender rests laid crosswise, and at top, another range
laid in a straight line. When the Vines are fit to bind (in place of
training the shoots vertically or perpendicularly, as is done when
they are bound to props, or even when they are fastened to such trelli-

39

ses as are used at Auxerre,) the shoots, left and right, are slanted
backward and forward along the row of cross rests, till the espalier is
complete, and the space on both sides of the stem or stock, is filled up
completely. They are led along this way until they reach the top
rest, to which they are bound, and along which they form a close
wreath or cornice the whole length of the line. To make them close
and cover in the whole espalier well and handsomely, the ends of the
shoots must not be clipped until the rests seem to have as much as
they can bear ; and as fast as they grow they must be wound together.
This method produces immense quantities of perfect clusters ; owing
to the stems having the full advantage of the sun, and the sap by
that means being more mature ; the grape too is sure toripen, and
acquires a high flavour.

Another not less remarkable advantage is the lengthening of the
shoots, which are not stopped until they have spent their strength.
The Vine, by this means, does not exhaust itself in a continuous for-
mation of false buds and second shoots, which drain the’juices of
the wood, and impoverish its vigor: and the serpentining of the shoots
causes a circulation and impulsion of the sap, more regular and
useful to the plant.

Pyramip TRAINING.

In the view of rendering the cultivation of the Vine less laborious
and less costly, and more ready and productive, a great many French
Vine-growers, following the example of those of Baden, and for one
instance M. C. B. Prost, of Andelau, pear Strasburg, rear the Vine
in Cones, or to say better, Pyramids. This method is one which me-
rits being well known. I shall therefore enter into the closest possi-
ble details, to render the manner of it clear from first to last.

After having marked out the ground in parallel lines 8 feet apart,
there must, the first year, be set checker-wise along these lines, small
stakes 8 feet apart also. Cutting from the south, (or from whichever
aspect you intend the Vineyard to have) you then trench the gronnd,
opposite each stake, in oblong squares, 2 feet long and 1 foot broad,
and, according to the depth of the soil, from 18 inches to a foot in
depth ; the ground lifted out is heaped beside the stake, and serves,
at a future period, to lay over the roots. These trenches should be
thoroughly ridded of pebbles or stones, which, in the end, would cause
trouble in setting out the props. -

The young Vines, early in autumn, are to be set out in these slo-
ping trenches, without any previous digging or disturbing of the soil ;

36

the roots spread out without confusion, the stalk near at hand to the
stake, and the first eye, counting from the roots, 4 inches lower than
the surface of the ground. Nota root should be cut or shortened,
unless it has been broken and damaged. The strongest stem or stalk
is the only one to be left outwards ; all others must be laid down as
if they were roots. These small trenches are then loosely filled with
the earth that had been removed from them, as the eyes of the il
will thereby run less risk through the winter.

This manner of setting out young Vines allows the roots a fall
chance of penetrating the soil in every direction, and the heat of the
sun reaches them gradually and more thoroughly. In the spring as
soon as the weather is favourable, the earth should be cleared down
a little from the young plants, so as to lower the level of the soil
collected about the stake, and the stems or branches upon the main-
stem are to be pruned ; only one good eye 1s left ; the knife is laid as-
Jant, and the wood is cut sloping backwards opposite to the eye that
is kept, and about the third of an inch above it. The shoots as soon
as they grow long enough should be tied to the stake; there should
not be allowed more than two to each Vine.

The following year, these two shoots have now become woody
stems ; they too are pruned down toa single eye. But should there
have been only one sprout, the pruning-knife must leave upon it two
eyes. From these, there will, accordingly, be two shoots, and when
they are 18 inches long, they must be topped, and tied; the wood by
this, becomes the stronger.

In the spring of the fourth year, which is when the Vine buds for
the third time, the posts are to be set up where the stakes stood.
The two stems are then to be pruned, one to 5 and the other to 6
eyes. They are to be turned spirally around their prop, both in the
same direction, leaving about 3 or 4 inches interval between each
twist. Each of the stems are to be tied fast. The two uppermost
_ shoots also, are tied, and topped when they are large enough. Some
fruit is borne this season. As for the posts they should be round,
strong, straight, 6 inches in thickness and 9 feet in height ; of locust
for dry, light soils, and chesnut or heart of oak for others. The end
that is put in the ground should be thick painted with melted pitch.
In the fifth year the pyramids begin to take a form ; according to the
taste, they may be made triangular, square, five or six-sided, but a
circular form is preferable ; having no saliant points it is not inconve-
nient like the others. The two uppermost stems are pruned as before,
and-with them, the spiral, always in the same direction, is continued.
The other stems, which are called szde-runners. are cut down to three
eyes and are left gadding.

37

_ When the blossom has fallen and the berry is moulded, the shoois
on the side-runners are nipped or shred down to six eyes. They are
kept short to allow the Vine a free circulation of the air. The upper-
most ‘shoots are topped also and tied as before.

At this time the Vine which has not more than one eighth of the
height, and scarcely a sixth of the breadth which it has yet to attain,
furnishes already from twenty to thirty clusters; that is to say, it
produces as much asa Vine, kept in the ordinary way, that has its
full growth.

In the sixth year the pyramids begin to ascend, and look shapely.
The two uppermost sprouts are pruned as the year before, one down
to 5 eyes, the other to 6 ; and the spiral is continued ; care being taken
to wind and bind them before the buds begin to show out, not to risk
breaking them off, and spoiling the regularity of the Cone. The last
year’s sprouts on the side-runners are now cut down to4 eyes ; if there
are lateral sprouts on these again, they are not suppressed, but accor-
ding to their strength are left with 1 or 2 eyes at most. The upper-
most stems are tied up and topped when too long, as before ; this ope-
ration is performed when the berry has set. The Vines, this season
yield, from thirty to sixty clusters a piece.

In the seventh year, all the same processes are performed, the same
as the preceding year; and from fifty to a hundred clusters are gath-
ered fromevery Vine. During the eighth and ninth years, the same
attentions are given until the spiral has reached the top of the post.
From this time forth, whatever surmounts the post is to be pruned
down every spring, while the side-runners are to be allowed a little
Jonger than before. The diameters of the base and of the summit,
‘should be in the proportion of two to one, or three to one in places expo-
sed tothe force of the winds. There need be no anxiety about the
too great spreading of the outer circumference ; if determined to
prune it intoshape, allow the wood time to strengthen, and proportion
the clipping as the side shoots become firmand stout. But in no case
must there be more than two eyes left on a side shoot ; even ‘some
of the side runners, and at any rate some of the side shoots should be
thmned out, if they are too numerous and crowded ; without this
‘precaution they will:reciprocally weaken and stifle each other. A
Vineyard of 2000:stocks trained in the above manner, and thinned
inthe fall, m cool years, of those leaves which hide the sun from the
clusters, yields yearly 26.000 gals. of wine; while on the other hand,
‘6000 Vine-stocks trained im the ordinary way produce in common
seasons only from 780 te 1300 gallons, and in the very ‘best seasons
only about 2600 sallons.

~~

REMARKS ON THE PRECEDING MODES.

The greater the height at which the Vine is kept, the less it ma-
tures well; especially in a northerly latitude ; it will, however, reach
the ripening point if planted in a sandy ground: but that will be vainly
looked for in a compact, clayey soil. As far north as Paris, the Vine
should be planted in rows rather wide apart, and the stocks kept
no higher than 18 or 20 inches. To give full play to the circulation
of the air, and to allow the humidity to be absorbed more easily and
promptly, the ranges or rows should be palissaded espalier-like, that
the shoots may keep in the hedge-row form.

To cultivate the Vine in festoons, or the tall-stock training, requires
a warm country. The low-stock is more generally suitable, agreeing
with all climates, and all soils. The pyramid training has all the ad-
vantages of the counter-espalier mode, conducted in the most discrim-
inating manner. It requires it is true, a perfect knowledge of the
pruning of trees, to attend to it as it should be done; but happily
the Vine is so tenacious of life, that a few mistakes will not be fatal
to it. Beside the economy of time in training, the considerable in-
crease of the crop, both for quality and quantity, and the remarkable
diminution of expense in the cultivation, the pyramid mode permits
the Vine-grower to raise, at the same time, the grain necessary for
his subsistence, and reduces to one third, the expense of timber for
posts. These two latter considerations are important ; in France it
is so costly to be obliged to cut saplings for props, that a method by
which they can be spared to the forests 1s very welcome; and by gi-
ving a variety of crops to small vine-yards, the owners will not, in
barren grape seasons, be forced to run into debt for their very bread.

This mode, it may be said, requires time, which is true, especially
when setting out on this plan; but the return is so much more
abundant than by the usual methods, and is given so long before
the finishing hand has been put to the architecture of the pyramids,
that patience becomes less of a burthen than would be expected.
It can be easily adapted to Vines kept in counter-espalier ; and to be
introduced into Vineyards kept under any other sort of training, costs
very little expense ; and even the first year, not a third of the crop
is lost by it. To train counter-espalier Vines in this way, the posts
should be set out checker-wise, on the first, third, fifth lines and so
on; the two stems of old wood, that are nearest left and right, are
drawn tothe post ; and as the shoots of counter-espalier Vines spring
from very low, the two lowermost shoots are selected ; one from each

~
seo!

3g

of the above mentioned old runners, and with these the spiral is com-
menced. The intermediary range of espalier is suffered to remain ;
and the remainder of the wood-work left, should be sufficient to sup-
port the rest of the stocks that still keep the old hedge-row.

To change the fashion of any other Vines,it is necessary to begin
in the spring, by lopping with a sloping cut, every other stock, in
every other row; they should be lopped as low as possible; it is
even advantageous to cut nearly an inch or two below the surface of
the ground, if the upper roots will allow. The edges of the wound
should be drawn together, and anointed well with gardener’s wax, to
prevent bleeding. The old posts are left standing to support the new
shoots which will sprout from the shortened stocks, on which only
two shoots apiece are to be allowed; and they must be topped when ~
they are two feet in length, to give them a chance to grow stronger.
The following spring the spiral must be commenced ; the Vines sprout
vigorously, and the shoots bear that fall. By degrees, as the pyramids
increase in height, the runners of the other stocks are pruned shorter
and shorter, until finally even the stocks themselyes must be cut
through underground, enough to destroy vitality.

TRELLISE TRAINING.

By this title I do not mean to designate the paling of Vines against
walls or trellises in gardens, but that culture only which is practised
on the largest scale on the Chasselas grape in the village of Thomery
near Fontainbleau. There alone is this sort of training so conducted
as to yield a handsome revenue to the cultivators. It will be perceiv-
ed that it is adapted to the climate of Paris. The wall against which
the Thomery Vine-dressers plant the slips is 7 feet in height, and roof-
ed with tiles that jut 8 inches beyond it, forming a cornice destined to
shelter the grape from the rain, without shading it too much. The
wall is carefully rough cast, with mortar ; and at every 3 feet of space
iron hooks, soldered fast with lead, are cramped into it, to support the
rungs of the trellise. An easterly exposure, on which the sun falls
till one or two o’clock in the afternoon is esteemed the most favourable

The trellise is formed, from top to bottom, by nine horizontal sup-
ports or bands, slung into the iron cramps; and which are to support
the main-runners of the vine. These runners are called wreaths
or belts,and are led off on the right and on the left. The perpendicu-
lar supports or joists are about 2 feet high, and are tied fast with iron
wire, to the horizontal ones.

‘Phe slips with roots* having been carefully prepared and kept,

—$<—<—$<—————
* Each slip is set out in a slender basket ; this precaution renders the
first crop a year earlier; it is gathered the following autumn.

40

during a year, in good ground, mixed with vegetable mould, are
set out in the month of November, with their first roots, at about 4
inches from the wall ; they are planted 15 inches deep, and over against
the perpendicular joists 2 feet high. Each slp gradually gives a belt
on both sides of the stalk, which is led horizontally along the rungs
or supports ; the ground is not to be manured until the second year
after planting, and to preserve its nutritive freshness, large flat stones
are laid around the slips along the walls, and are not removed or
displaced for a number of years.

Commonly towards the close of February, and always at the wane
of the moon, the prunig is performed by cutting away all the brush -
of the last year or preceding years, until there is but one bud left on
each branch or stem from the main stalk, these pruned shoots must
also be 7 inches apart from each other. The ascending main-stalk
is allowed one bud.

In the month of March or May, aecording as the season is early or
not, the clippmg is performed; only two spurs are to be left on each
second shoot ; and it is always those nearest the wall that will feel the
refraction of the sun the most, that are to be preserved. The binding
or act of fastening the new stems to the horizontal rungs, with old,
soaked rushes, is to be begun when they have obtained such a length
that there is danger of their bemg broken by the rain or the wind.

The flower, fragrant as mignonette, opens during the last 10 days
of June; the green berry soon follows; upon which, im abundant
years, that the large wood may not be exhausted or overdrawn, so
as to injure the next year’s crop, upon each shoot the two finest bunch-
es only are to be left. The leaves cover and shelter the young fruit
against the too great heat of the sun, and damages from heavy rains
or hail. But as soon as the heat becomes more temperate, a part of
the foliage is taken off, leaving only what is necessary to protect the
fruit, without hindering the effect of the sun, which colors the grape,
or the dews, which mellow it. The cluster being so near the hot
surface of the wall, gilds easily, and offers the fragrant, firm, sugary,
bland fruit, which is the wealth of Thomery. To keep this grape
fresh, the bunches are hung from the ceiling by a string slung
through the upper branches of the bunch, not tied to the end of the
bunch stalk.

CHAPTER V.

ON THE SELECTION AND SETTING OUT OF SLIPS.

It must be already evident, from what has been previously stated,
that every Vineyard is not planted with the same species; some even
are composed of as many as twelve or twenty hap-hazard sorts, from
which it results, that in the vintage season, very few of the bunches
collected are at the same seasonable point of ripeness; all others, each
with the mixture of tartar peculiar to their kinds, give to the wine
as many different degrees of tartness ; which can only be overcome
by adding to the must the saccharine matter that is wanting. A
selection of several kinds should be planted; not to do so, is wantonly
to run the chance of a failure of the whole crop. And, there should
not be more than five or six kinds chosen, but these should be of the
best species for wine; and all sorts should be rigidly rejected that
are subject to the Blight, or Damping off of the blossom; as well as
those that cannot stand drought, and also such as are liable to rot in
rainy seasons. By thus setting out from five to six varieties of the
Vine, there is some one kind that will bear, when meteoric changes
of the weather have been unfavorable to all others; and the wine
from such a mixture is always preferable.

As each variety has a date for ripening, the utmost variation of
which is from twelve days to a fortnight between the several kinds,
the intelligent vinedresser will study to give them such an aspect as
will equalize this difference as much as possible. The early kinds

~ should be planted in the higher parts of the Vineyard, and the later
in the middle, especially if the Vineyard is on the side of a hill.

Many planters look out for varieties that are great bearers; this is
not good policy, for it is well known that the more fruitful the Vine,
the less excellent the wine ; the grapes are too crowded, not enjoying
the free contact of the air : they cannot ripen so generally as is need-
ed, and not having the full benefit of the sun, their juices are coarse,
and not sufficiently eliminated. In consequence of this false calcula-
tion many a Vine-dresser has become reduced in circumstances; and
the Vines of Argenteuil, near Paris, that enjoyed a very high reputa
tion in the fifteenth century, are latterly of an inferior character
especially since 1750, in consequence of this false policy.

G

Great consideration therefore should be given to the nature of the
species selected, as the quality of the wine depends upon it. Propi-
tious situations and fertile soils are wasted upon poor varieties; the
must that is hard and carb ance never be turned into good wine.
The best grape is that which contains the most pulpy matter ; and
wiges of price are uniformly from such grapes.

To make a sure, correct, and safe selection, it is necessary to exa-
mine well one’s own vineyard and those of the neighbouring districts,
a week before the harvest. From these the slips should be selected,
as the plant best naturalized is the most thrifty, and most certain to
yield perfect fruit. It is not so advantageous as some are fain to say
and to believe, that the scions should be taken from the vineyards of
the South; the growth of them there is more rank than in more
northerly climates ; and when transplanted to a situation not analogous
in temperature and rapid evolution of earthy gaseous compounds,
although they may seem to prosper awhile, they soon dwindle and fail.

The custom is, to mix the red and the white grape. Three fourths
of the Vineyard should consist of the former. It contains the most
colouring matter, and is less susceptible of the vinous fermentation ;
by prolonging which operation, and delaying the insensible spirituous
fermentation, which the red grape does effect, the acid fermentation
is put off, The white grape refines the wine, imparting to it flavours
that are racy and delicate.

Several months before planting it is advisable to have the ground
dug to the depth of l or 2 feet. This preliminary operation is too
often neglected, but has a sensible effect on the prosperity of the
Vineyard. The sccond point to which attention is solicited, is, not
to place a new Vine in the spot from which an old one has been
just removed. The earth must be allowed time to resume its vigour :
when this is neglected, the new Vine sprouts feebly, and soon lan-
guishes.

The setting out should be done in the fall, by which a year is
gained,—it may be said two. Of a certain number of Vine slips, let
half be planted in the fall, and half in the following spring, in the
same soil and beside each other; at the end of the fifth year the
former will have borne fruit for the third time, while the latter, at
the same period, have barely proved their species. Besides, it is an
established fact, that trees planted in the latter part of the year usually
succeed, while those set out in spring, send forth but weakly shoots,
and few survive. But in all things, climate must be consulted ; in
the South, the setting out should be done at the fall of the leaf, be-
cause the roots during winter grow and spread, and stretch to great

45

distances im search of the nutritious juices destined for the plant,
which, by this means, can brave the drought which threatens its
existence during the warm season. But in our northern plantations
the most auspicious time is when the dangerous period of hard frosts
and frequent rains is over, that is, about the 20th of February. To
delay it until April, when the earth begins to be warmed by the sun ;
and when ‘the evaporation of moisture, and of the rains and dews is
rapid, leads to much disappointment. The slips perish entirely in
dry springs; and at any rate are disturbed in taking root, and are
evidently thrown back, by the stir and movement of the season of
germination.

For setting out, either suckers or layers, or slips, are used. Suck-
ers or layers are raised with a root afier the vintage ; the slips are
from cuttings picked out at the time of pruning. The Vines are put
down in straight lines where the descent is not too rapid, in curves
or amphitheatre-like where there is a great declivity. The plants
should be about ten feet from each other in the line, and between each
-line should be left an interval of four and an half feet; they must
be set so as to face one anrther im every other line, which gives a
proportionate distance between them on every side. The layering of
layers for a new plantation is very hurtful to the old stocks, owing to
their. young and vigorous roots which drain the parent plant ; it is
esteemed better to have recourse to cuttings , they are pianted in good
fresh ground, and when they take root are easily transplanted. It is
well to observe by the way, that the cuttings need not be set out ina
rich soil; when this precaution is neglected in the nurseries of young
Vines, the slip sprouts rapidly, the roots shoot far and increase fast ;
but when transplanted, it is not often that the new soil is equal to
the old; in which case, to the planters chagrin, his slips dwindle and
deeline. An opposite treatment insures great vigor and the prospect
of long duration to the new Vines. A Vineyard from cuttings lives
the longest, and is the most fruitful, one from scions yields sooner.
The former mode is preferred by those who know how to sacrifice the
present for the future ; the latter by those who must be gratified im-
mediately. Those who adopt the former mode have an eye to the
prospects of their children as well as themselves ; and such not un-
frequently, have their Vineyards renewed every forty years from plan-
tations of seedlings. ‘This mode certainly rerenerates those primitive
qualities of the species which successive planting from cuttings seems
to weaken; the wine acquires a very agreeable bouquet; and the

vield is considerable.
It is hest to set a greater number of cuttings than will be wanted,

44

which gives a chance to select the strongest and most forward slips.
Before transplanting them, isolated pits, or what is better, trenches,
the whole length of the intended line should be opened, of a depth
and width according to the nature of the soil; if it is very meagre,
they should be both deep and wide ; the roots will have to travel far,
and put under contribution a greater superficies; in these parts, the
trench is made about 2 feet deep, and 14 feet wide. In good soil,
a foot and a half of depth against a foot of breadth is sufficient.
When placing the new slip in the trench, care must be taken to pul-
verize the soil that 1s to cover the roots; the vegetable earth on the
surface is to be turned down upon them; that which, having been
underneath, has not been mellowed by exposure to the air, is unfit
to give them a favorable start. “Very old stocks are slow of growth,
and bear no good wood for cuttings, which should be taken from se-
ven or eight year old Vines; the last year’s shoots are not proper
for this purpose ; it is the two year old wood that is found preferable
in every point of view; the best time for setting them out is when
the ground is not over moist. Where there is a rocky bottom near
at hand, [in which we counsel the use of the auger,] the roots will
not speedily take the same volume as in good, fair soil; therefore at
the bottom of the pit in which the slip is to be set, moistened ashes
should be laid, which keeps up the freshness of the ground, pre-
venting the baking and reflected heat from withering and drying the
thinly covered roots.

Our Vine-growers are so oppressed by imposts, that they are obli-
ged to increase their income by continually renewing their Vines.
It is a pity that this necessity exists; the aged Vines, it is true, are
scant bearers, and the fruit is very small ; but the wine is always of a
very superior quality. Young Vines are full of fruit, but the wine
from them is inferior ; still it is very profitable, and though less flavo-
rous, furnishes abundantly for distillation. A proof of this difference
I may give ; the wines of Clos-Vougeot (Cote d’Or,) which are so very
fine and choice, have diminished in value, since the frequently hun-
dred-year-old stocks have been grubbed up and new ones planted.

It has been stated that trees were injurious in Vineyards ; the ques-
tion now is, are all other kinds of vegetation equally improper. All
kinds of vegetables are hurtful when the Vines are planted in close
rows. Lentils and lupins are never injurious. All sorts of grain
beans, pease and potatoes, injure the Vines more or less according
to the vigor with which each drains the soil, or the poor or rich
nature of the ground. It is astonishing how much they will throw
back a Vineyard in the first three years of its plantation. It is bet-

45

ter to sow nothing and dig the ground frequently; and the crops
repay the labour with usury.

There are many weeds which trouble Vineyards and which should
be kept down as much as possible; the few that are turned in by
ploughing or digging enrich the soil. Ofthese the marygold, aristo-
lochia, vervain, mercury and briar are accused of imparting a bad
flavour to the wine. It is to be presumed that these accusations are
exaggerated.

Of all the means employed or proposed to give additional vigour
to the Vine, there is none more effectual than that intimate ming-
ling and shifting of the soil produced by frequent and well directed
tillage. This incorporation increases the quantity of salts already in
the soil, and like a leaven, excites a fermentation in them which leads
to fresh combinations, and gives a new impulse to vegetation.

CHAPTER VI.

OF THE TILLAGE OF THE VINE,

Tillage assists the efforts of nature, by developing those principles
of fertility inherent in the soil. The mode, frequency, and season fer
tilling, varies according to localities. Where the ground is dry it
should be only slightly raked; when the layer is not very deep, it
should be well turned up. In many of our southern departments, the
plough or the hoe are used ; in the North, pick-axes of different forms.
some times even the dibble, or even a large rake. The plough is
the most economical means. It cuts up and divides the soil deeply,
and throws it up against the stock. It neither hurts the branches
nor second-shoots, when, in the first tilling, the yoke is four feet ten
inches long. :

Next to the plough the mattock is the best. The one in use in
the neighbourhood of Paris, is a foot long and six inches wide, with a
short and crooked wooden handle ; but it obliges the vine-dresser to
stoop much, and is very fatiguing. Three sorts of hoes are used; a
square one for compact mould destitute of stones and gravel ; a trian-
gular one for hard soils full of sand and gravel; a third kind with two or
three teeth, is reserved for light and gravelly, or pebbly ground. Hoe-
ing must be carried deep, and requires great strength; it is the sever-
est sort of tillage. The gardener’s dibble and the rake are an expense
quite disproportioned to their utility; in other words, they are not
worth the money they cost for all the good they procure. Where the
Vineyard is situated on a declivity, it is best to till the ground diagon-
ally in preference to digging or ploughing up and down, which assists
the rains in carrying away the lightest and best soil from the upper
parts. After planting, there must be one hoeing to level ridges and
heaps, and loosen them to give the young roots free access on all
sides. In tilling, a small hollow must be formed around the foot of
each Vine, to detain a proper moisture for the tender roots. The tali-
stock training requires four tillings ; there is only one time for tillage
with the low-stock ; when the shoots begin to spread there is a risk
of breaking the branches and losing the fruit. The ploughing should
be done as early as possible, and the digging as late as possible, say
about the end of August. This operation kills the weeds. loosens the

4%

sou, admits the air, and the penetration of the solar heat, all which
imerease the sweetness of the grape, and tend to secure its ripening
richly.

It is, above all, necessary to till the ground frequently in the first
years of a new plantation. By keeping the soil loose, it is more easily
enriched by the dews and depositions of the air. The ground should
be disturbed thoroughly and the roots next the surface cut and torn
up; it gives an added vigor to those which remain, and makes them
spread to a greater distance. After which, when the plantation has
become a Vineyard to all intents and purposes, it is just as well to give
one deep winter ploughing, and two or three dressings with the spade _
in the course of the summer, to lay down the weeds which are rife. The
first dressing is usually practised just before the flewering ; the second
when the berry is half filled ; and the third when it has reached its full
srowth and begins to ripen. Some vine-dressers suppress the last til-
lage, and delay the second, which is wrong.

But it must be understood, that in insisting on the necessity of
deep tillage, it is only for loams and clayey soils; in dry and stony
ground the dressing should be light and superficial; deep digging
would favor too much the evaporation of the moisture. In cold
ground, with a moist bottom, frequent tillage is highly efficacious ; in
light rich soils, it gives the reflection of the heat too great a play, and
renders the vegetation puny.

Some authors have asserted that tillage disturbs the Vine without
profit, and is a useless labour; Vines planted in gardens, say they,
are neither ploughed nor hoed, and yet succeed well, and bear well ;
in Spain, on the rocks of Condrieux and through all the Lyonnois
they neither plough nor dig, and yet the Vineyards are beautiful and
the grapes splendid. I shall first remark in answer, that garden soil
is very loose and often moved, consequently tillage is not required by
Vines in gardens. The false reasoning in this case, originates in an
erroneous idea. But as for Spain, they there till twice in winter and
twice in the spring ; they practise beside, in May, a slight hoeing to
level the soil, and make a hollow around the stock. They employ for
the ploughing a single horse, fastened to the plough of the ancients ;
some times the same yoke draws two ploughs, each one held by a la-
bourer. At Condrieux and in the Lyonnese district, the Vineyards
receive three dressings; one after the pruning or topping, another
after the flowering, and the third just before the grape begins to turn.
So it is, that writers desirous of building up a system will distort
facts, or quote without beins certain of them; and deceive for the
sole satisfaction of deceiving.

CHAPTER VII. |

OF THE MANURING OF THE VINE.

Numerous and striking examples exist to prove the ill results at-
tending the imprudent manuring of Vineyards ; there are vine-grow-
ers, however, who think it useful to apply it in considerable quanti-
ties. But a quantity not only injures the quality of the fruit, but dimin-
ishes the quantity, and the wine is apt to become ropy. It is destruc-
tive even to the stock itself in many cases; the leaves the first year
grow yellowish, the second year they become quite yellow, and the
third season new Vines must be set out. This has been remarked in
many parts of France; we have witnessed the same in Italy and Ger-
many, and I learn by my correspondence that it is no uncommon oc-
currence in Hungary. There is a mean term between too much ma-
nure and a total disuse of it; and itis the quality of the article, and
the discreet application of it which will make the great difference. Sta-
ble-yard litter is the least advantageous ; it renders the ground moist
and gives the wine an earthy flavour. If spread fresh, as has been
recommended by some, its inconveniences are still greater ; the parts
not being sufficiently rotted and incorporated, shelter multitudes of in-
sects and give birth to millions of weeds. When well worked and tho-
roughly mellowed, it helps the ground and imparts an ill flavour only
the first year; but it is altogether and remarkably advantageous
when it is used ina compost, combined with mould, lime, ashes and
dead leaves. The litter of horses, asses, mules, sheep and hogs, suit
hard, stiff soils ; that of horned cattle, geese and ducks, should be ap-
plied to light soils, to which it gives coherence and body; but the
litter of sheep and goats is preferable for the latter purpose. The
dung of fowls, hair, feathers, shavings of horn, all which decompose slow-
ly during a moist, hot spell, are useful. Pigeon dung is the most ac-
tive and fertilizing manure, but it contains a great proportion of alkali,
and should be spread with the greatest parsimony. It will. agree with
almost any sort of soil, according to Oliver de Serres, and gives no ill
taste to the grape. The cleansings of ditches, ponds,and running
streams, as well as the filth ofroads, yards and streets, will make a
good manure ; but must be used with great moderation. Owing tothe

49

excessive use of the street-dirt of Paris, the vine-growers of Surene
have destroyed the reputation of their wine, which was formerly in high
esteem.

But the enterprising vine-dresser will find admirable manures in
the vegetable kingdom, by ploughing under plants in flower, to ferment
and decompose in the soil; and beside the economy of this method, it
does not injure the wine. On the splendid hills of Damazan, ( Lot
and Garonne) where the Vines form broad luxuriant screens, and
produce a coloured wine that has an agreeable perfume and much de-
licacy, they have a custom of sowing the lupin. This plant is in flower
during the time of tilling; they turn it under, and it forms, without
the expense of transportation, a manure that is evidently strong and
profitable, from the abundance of their grapes and the fertility of
the soil, the greater portion of which is sandy. Buckwheatalso is
recommended, sown just after the Vintage, and ploughed in by the
first winter tillage. Brambles, briars, heaths also ameliorate the soil ;
but the most likely application is the clippings of the Vine, buried
around the stock as soon as cut; many vine-dressers consider this
the best. Others prefer the use of the green Vine leaves. They easily
decompose, and cannot alter the flavour of the wine. Lucerne and
clover also restore to the earth more principles of fertility than they
have abstracted fromit. In the environs of Toulouse, in Vine-yards
which are situated on heights, and where the soil is stiff, clayey and sub-
ject to be carried off by the rains, they sow sanfoin every ten years.
While it is growing the only care they take of the Vines is to prune
them,and they yield scarcely any thing; but when the sanfoin has
stood two or three years, they plough it under in the third or fourth
season ; the soil is re-invigorated and the vintage is abundant.

Wrack and sea-weed are used in some Vine-yards near the sea shore;
but they have to be mixed with other manures, and employed in mo-
deration. The grape takes a taste like the rankness of the sea-weed ;
the wine also receives a large addition of soda from this manure,
and is never fit for any thing but the making of brandy. But of all
the manures, a compost of different earths is the most acceptable to
the Vine; earth, for instance, raised from meadows, woods, &c. and
of qualities different from the soil of the plantation; that is, if light
and open , a close compact loam should be added; if on the contrary,
heavy and hard, light dry kinds of earths should be used. This mixture
produces the happiest effects.

There are several ways of applying new earths on the Vine-yard ;
a2 scuttle-shaped basket is very convenient where the Vines are ona
slope; the wheel-barrow and dung-cart are more economical; but

7

3U

tor the wheel-barrow,the ground to be removed should not be far dis-
tant from the Vineyard.

The dung-cart requires the assistance of two oxen and two labourers,
and may injure the runners and shoots; therefore it should not enter
the Vineyard; but the earth should be discharged outside, and the
barrow will serve to transport it tothe Vines. The time at which this
is done, is generally from the latter part of April to the beginning of
June; it is better to do it in the fall or beginning of winter. In
cold countries it should be delayed until pruning.

According to the observations of Rozier, the Vine needs no manur-
ing so long as the stock retains a deep brown hue ; but when it takes
a lighter shade verging upon the yellow, it is an infallible sign of weak-
ness ; then it will require the earth to be renewed every five or six years.
The duration of the fertilizing properties of the new soil, depend
on certain points in its quality ; if it is earth that has been washed
away by rains from the Vineyards, its effects will not last long. If
the new layer is fresh soil, and a thick coat of it be spread, the Vine--
yard will require no other for ten, twelve, or fifteen years; and so in
like proportion, if the layer be slender, the needs of the Vine will again
return in a few years.

CHAPTER VUl.

OF THE INFLUENCE OF THE WEATHER ON THE VINE
AND ITS PRODUCTS.

After having pointed out the effects on the Vine and its products
of the soil, the mode of culture, the tillage and manuring, it may be
most proper to state, what is the influence exerted by the state of the
atmosphere. A cold and rainy year, whether in southern or north-
ern latitudes is hurtful in every point; the Vine is fond of a regular
heat, and it requires a hot sun to ripen the grape. When the atnios-
phere is cold and damp, the Vine languishes, and the fruit is neither
sugary, nor fragrant; the wine is insipid, and sours easily, or soon
turns ropy. Winter rains, especially in places where the ground is
marly and liable to become miry, prevent the ploughing, pruning, and
other operations which the Vine requires. In the spring, at the bud-
ding season, great rains will cause a premature unfolding of the buds
and leaves, and lessen the production of fruit. When the bunch is
in flower, they blight the pollen of the blossom, especially if they are
cold and heavy; when the berry is half-grown, they prevent its in-
crease; when it is a little further advanced, they deprive it of the su-
gary savour peculiar to it, or make it ripen late ; or if they take place
at the vintage season they rot the grape, making it furnish, on fer-
mentation, only a tartish-tasted, watery beverage.

High winds are always prejudicial ; they dry and harden the ground;
they blast the young shoots; they prevent the fecundation of the
flower, and deprive the berry of its inherent moisture.

Spring frosts and hail are two severe scourges of the Vine; in one
moment they diminish or destroy utterly, the hopes of a whole year
of labours. '

Fogs are equally hurtful to the stock, the flower, and the fruit. Be-
sides their rendering them more apt to suffer from frosts, the clammy
moisture they deposit over every part of the plant, wets it more
completely than the earth, and exposes it, the sun drying in a mo-
ment this superficial humidity, to a heat the more injurious, because
so sudden.

a2

Too much heat also has an evil effect; great heat, it is true
is necessary to ripen, refine and perfume the grape, but if excessive,
and continued, and at a time when the earth is dry, it burns and does
not vivify. Its results are similar to those of fall frosts and tempes
tuous winds. They are worse felt in the North than in the South, be-
cause, in the latter the roots of the plant are much stronger and larger.

The most favourable season is when the flower opens during a
dry, warm, tranquil spell; when light rains occur frequently to
nourish the growing berry; when a regular heat without interval
of foggy, muggy weather developes the bunch, and ripens the fruit;
and when fair weather presides at the joyous period of the vintage.

CHAPTER IX.

ON THE MEANS OF RENEWING VINES AND VINEYARDS.

The proper methods for renewing the Vine are layering ; intrench-
ing ; stripping the old bark, and pruning. Ofthe latter we shall treat
ina chapter by itself.

Or LayERInG.

. Layering creates new stocks; but if too often repeated on the same
roots it eventually renders them sterile and useless. The process
of layering need scarcely be described it is so universally known.
But its application to the Vine consists in putting down and burying
an old-wood stem in a pit about a foot large, allowing only five or six
of the branches, Gf weak, and if strong, but two) to remain above
~ground. This is not only a mode of restoring Vines, but the way
usually practised for perpetuating good roots of the grape, such for
example as bear long bunches, with a double row of close-set ber-
ries, flattened by their pressure against each other. The time for
the operation varies according to the climate. In warm countries
the fall is best; if done later it does not succeed well, the months
of April and May being, in such climates, altogether wanting in
those mild rains that so happily foster the young layer. In cold coun-
tries it must be deferred until the 15th of February. There, by layer-
ing in fall, the heavy winter rains, and surface water and moisture,
chill and weaken the sucker; but even there by delaying the opera-
tion till spring, it disturbs the main direction and impulse of the
sap, and drives it into all the buds, when the grand object is to keep
it for a few. But in mid-February, there is no diversion made to
the flow of the sap, the channels of which are unoccupied.
The sucker, when removed from the old stem, is to he pruned with
a cut slanting backward and downward from above the eye that is
kept, and ending opposite toit. When set out it should show only
three or four joints, and be provided with a prop to prevent it from
giving straggling, slender shoots, which would suffer from the plough
in the first tillage. Great care must be taken not to let the earth fill
up the trench in which the layers are set out, or the best roots will

o4

spread there and by being so close to the surface expose the plant
to all the casualties of the weather, and all the various operations
of tilling and training, that must .be carried on about the Vine.
But neither layering nor the setting out of layers should ever be in-
trusted to the hired vine-dresser or labourer. The injuries that may
be done by careless digging and hasty work to the young stocks
can scarcely be calculated. When done with the attention and care
due to the operation, it has these advantages besides those already
enumerated. The sucker yields plentifully and affords a strong wine ;
it allows the bunch to be kept near the ground, in places where the
low culture is strictly indispensable : and the stocks from layers will
last considerably : there are even instances of immense duration, as
in the vineyards of L’Yonne, Cote d’Or, and Saone and Loire, which
are two hundred years old, and the wines of which, as also of the
vine-grounds of La Chainette and Migrenne near Auxerre, are gene-
rous, delicate, and strong; and those too of Mares-d’Or, (district of
Dijon) which are racy, nourishing and of a high relish.

In some districts they only layer in young plantations, in others
they do it from time to time to renew old stocks ; and im others they
annually layer a quarter, or sixth, or eighth, or even less, of the
whole of their Vines. The first method is improper when it is done
to multiply the original number of stocks, because by the frequent
repetition it wears out the virtues of the variety, and renders it in-
ferior. But when practised to fill up the space of occasional dead
stocks it is perfectly recommendable. For the second case it must
be said, that it is needless to wait till a Vineis dead to renew it;
the proper time is when its pristine vigor declines ; and when its pro-
duce diminishes in quantity, or what is of more consequence, in
quality. The third method cannot meet the approbation of any man
of science, because its purport and tendency is to perpetuate the
culture of the Vine in the spot it actually occupies for any period of
years, and the Vine, like all other plants, will in time exhaust the
earth of those principles which alone nourish it.

After a certain lapse of time it should cede the soil to some other
growth, that by the alternation of other vegetation, the mould may
become lively and fertile, in place of being impoverished and dead.

Or IsTRENCHING.
When a Vine either by age or the poverty of the soil begins to

fail, the vine-dresser may postpone its ultimate fate by this operation,
which will reanimate it, and it will vield in consequence for five,

ar)

ten, or fifteen years longer. Intrenching is practised irom the montis
of December until March, or until the buds begin to swell. This
operation must never be attempted on any part of the plant save
the stock itself; if done upon a branch, that branch attracts to itself
the nourishment of the whole plant, and the rest of the Vine bears
feebly, and its leaves soon fall ; those also who do attempt this, gene-
rally make such a shallow trench that the new roots are continually
cut up by the plough, the hoe, and the mattock. It is still worse
if any thing can be, to select the side-branches instead of the main,
or upward branch. The former give to the hand more easily, but
the latter requires less nourishment, and does not drain the sap as
rapidly and entirely. :

The best case for intrenching is when a young stock becomes di-
seased. J have known several Vines attacked by the Yellows, which
were intrenched in consequence, and have prospered amazingly ; be-
cause new roots were distributed horizontally and near the surface,
instead of penetrating downward to the cold, stiff, moist layer of
earth, which had been fatal to the first roots.

A whole vineyard may be renewed, by intrenching the old stocks in
entire. By this the stock, existing for itself, fills itself with nourish-
ing fluids, and performs the offices of an immense root, giving birth
to three, four. or five new stocks, all vigorous and long-lived. The
pit that is opened for this purpose must be dug so as to allow of
carefully grubbing out the earth from under the old stock; the roots
are then cut loose, and the trench deepened so as to lay down hori-
zontally the old trunk, and the branches are disposed of in the corners
of the trench. The earth is then lightly thrown in over the whole,
and a little stable manure scattered over the top of it. After the
third season the new stocks are separated from the old trunk.

Or Barxuine.

Several vine-growers of Ville Franche (Saone and Loire) and others
of the Lyonnois, have adopted of late years the plan of scraping and
tearing off all the old bark from their Vines. It revives the plant
greatly, and also destroys an immense number of insects which shel-
ter in the long rents of the bark. It increases the quantity of the
grapes without injuring their quality, and heightens the natural fla-
vour. Barking is a preventative and also a cure for many diseases
or injuries that are severe upon the vineyard, and is as safe as efft-
eacious, .

CHAPTER X.

" ON PRUNING.

The Vine if left to itself shoots up too high, it bears for two or
three years, but after that degenerates, languishes and yields only
slender clusters. This is the origin of the necessity of pruning,
which confines the powers of the sap toa few branches, thereby in-
creasing the produce and rendering the grape more, honied and ma-
ture. Pruning is therefore essential ; he who undertakes it must be
both intelligent and wary ; and habituated by theory and practice to
the knowledge of its effects, so as to be able to account as he goes
for every application of the knife; for it influences not only the
coming crop, but also the health of the Vine, and consequently its
future duration and profit.

As the Vine only yields fruit on the new wood, it follows of course,
that the pruning must be so cast as to keep up the lowermost and
most vigorous shoots, and must be adapted to the age, strength, and
character of the plant, to the nature of the soil and the mode of
training.

The first pruning is easiest, it is performed by clipping im entire
the shoot that originated from the uppermost of the two eyes left above
ground on the slip, and by clipping the other shoot close above the
eye that is left.

At the second pruning, if the plant is to be dwarfed, the lower-
most branch only is to be left; if a low-trained Vine, two branches
with buds are left; if a middling Vine, three branches are left, and
pruned, and all’ the rest are cut off as close as possible to the main
stem ; but in all cases alike, on the branch or branches that are spar-
ed, only one eye apiece and that the nearest to the trunk, is left
behind; the rest of the wood is lopped away. In the third pruning
one more eye is allowed to each of the above-mentioned main or first
shoots which are to be the main branches. Of these, three, or perhaps
four, is enough for the middling Vine, or even a tall-stock one; two
are enough for a low-stock Vine; and as in dwarf Vines the fruit-
bearing wood is to spring directly from the trunk, they must be kept
low, but not so much so that the grapes should lie on the ground.

a7

_ Ji is of frequent occurrence in the third season, for a vigorous
shoot or scion to spring from the foot of the Vine—It will injure the
plant unless the head of it be clipped.

In the fourth year the Vine begins to yield fruit; the two or three
most likely and able branches must be cut down to two eyes apiece,
and this is all the wood left standing.

In the fifth pruning, not more than five runners are tv be left stand-
ing; the lowermost shoot must have but one eye; and the other
strong branches are to be pruned to two eyes apiece.

When the Vine has reached the sixth year it is shaped as far as
pruning goes; from that time it must be regulated according to cli-
mate, the training of the stocks, their number, the space between
them, and the quality of the soil. The pruning then is classed into
short and long.

The number of runners that are to be left, varies; however, all
must undergo the operation of pruning, save Vines that lie fallow.

The tall-stock Vine can be allowed four runners with nine eyes
to each ; but to prevent the sap from rising too fast and running to
leaves, the branch must be twisted at its origin; this increases the
fertility of the plant, and improves the grape.

In a middling Vine, where a head, or pollard, of three or four main-
branches is allowed, five or six runners may exist on each of these
branches, and each runner may be permitted to retain from five to
Six eyes.

A low Vine with only two main-branches, should have no more
than that number of runners on each, so as to cause an equal and
regular flow of sap, and prevent it from flowing to one side more than
the other. If the Vine prospers, yet does not bear for two or three
years, the pruning must leave the wood long ; and on which ever side
it seems least fertile there should be a little manure applied, which
is better than to cut some of the roots on the more luxuriant side,
as some recommend.

‘or a dwarf Vine, three or four runners, with one or two eyes
apiece, are enough to be left by the pruning knife. If the Vine is
old, it should be pruned down very low and topped often. If any
shoots should spring from the foot of the stock they are from an
old Vine acceptable and welcome, and are to be scrupulously taken
care of, as they may serve to renew the stock.

When the plants have been much bruised and broken by hail, the
old and new wood both, must be cut close to the main stem. Ifa late
frost has caught the new shoots or destroyed them, those which are
any way hopeful must be topped; and the vear after, that wood

8

a Of
VO

alone is kept and dressed by the knife which has sprouted sub-eyes.
There is no need for hurry in clearing off the frozen wood, nor even
the buds partially caught; for it is no rare thing for the latter
sprouts to bear. If the Vine bleeds, length must be amply allowed
to all the wood and but little be removed, all which the year after
can be properly redueed. When the mould is deep, a plenty of run-
ners, or main-branches may be allowed, but not so if the soil be thin
and poor; in any case it exhausts the stock if there are more than
four runners with three buds oneach. In apoor soil, two branches
to the stump, with three buds or eyes on each, areenough. Ina
wet loam, pruning must be cautiously given, if at all. In dry years
the Vine makes very little wood ; then the pruning may be thorough :
the Vine should be thinned out greatly and pruned short; especially .
if there has been a severe winter.

Some varieties require to be left long, others to be dressed very
close; but with all kinds alike, the operation should be performed
with sharp instruments, and that wood which is old and dry and will
delay the circulation of the sap, be cleaned out and cut very close to
the healthy stems.

The vine-dresser when he prunes, ought always to have at his
side a sharp mattock to clear away the earth from the root of the
Vine so as to cut off as deeply as possible, all the suckers; when
this is done without opening the ground, they sprout up again more
numerous than ever, and by abstracting sap from the fruit-buds
injure them considerably. Each one has a particular motive in his
manner of pruning; one does it for the present crop; another to
make his Vine look handsome; a third for the crop two years ahead ;
a fourth who keeps the main chance in view, takes care of the large,
vigorous stems, and heeds little whether the Vine is too high or ill
formed, only considering the crop; as the proverb says, rather a
stock well filled than one well trained.. The principal point is, to.
know and seize the right time for pruning. To do it too soonad-
vances vegetation and exposes the young buds to the nipping of the
cold, or even spring frosts; if too late, it retards the development.
of the buds, and perhaps destroys the fruit-buds by their becoming
drenched with the bleeding sap during the night; or perhaps a late
frost happens, and finds the retarded sprouts so backward and ten-
der that it will entirely destroy them.

In warm countries, some pruning should be performed ‘after the
fall of the leaf; it gives the grape a greater chance for ripening and
becoming sugary; but to prune in fall or beginning of the winter,
in cold countries, is imprudent; it is proper to wait until the black

59

trost is over. The first fortnight in March is the best time for the
vineyard in the centre and North of France, and it should only be
done when the weather is fair, dry, and without appearance of rain.

After the sap begins to circulate, it is improper to prune the Vines,
unless such as are sprouting too luxuriantly, and which require to be
weakened, those in a proper condition it weakens too much ; they
seem exhausted and yield only poor fruit.

‘In pruning it is important to do the topping neatly ; it should be
done with a sharp knife, and the cut be made cleanly, and slanting
backwards and downwards from about an inch and an half above the
last eye that is left. The rain does not penetrate such a wound,
nor the frost, if there is any in the months of April and May, reach
the neck of the joint through it. In several districts they have a
way of cutting the branch in pruning straight off; but it is a worth-
less fashion ; it exposes the bud to all the stress of the weather, and
ifthe bud be crushed or split, the loss of the fruit follows of course.
It is a mode productive of great disappointment and loss.

When one single eye alone is left, there is always some risk that
that eye may meet with an accident, in which case the stock or
stem will be likely to perish, especially if it be weak or unthriving.
To avoid this inconvenience, prudent vine-dressers always preserve
two eyes, at liberty to make afterwards a more rigorous lopping.

In pruning for the wine crop solely, many more branches are left
than i in simple pruning for the preservation of the Vine ; but it soon
exhausts the plant and hastens the necessity of replanting. This
is the mode pursued by vine-dressers who work vineyards on shares,
and planters who follow the old adage, the Vine should sink under
its crop. But they generally neglect to bend in time the long runners,
stems and sprouts ; they leave them very long with the intention of
having much fruit ; but the sap ascending with too much ease, de-
velopes the uppermost or woody buds, that is, the buds above those
which turn out to be fruit bearers, and if the season is hot and moist,
or the plant is very vigorous, the fruit-buds will dwindle and be
lost entirely. As a general rule for the application of pruning, it
should (according to the different kinds and varieties or situation of
the plants, independent of other differences) be made so as to leave
‘the wood long, and but a few branches, for kinds that have a dry,
solid wood; of such as have a very pithy wood, the main-branches
may be many in number, but their stems should be left very short.
The newness of the soil in the culture makes a modification of the
necessity for pruning; there are situations, such for instance as the
island of Santori in the Archipelago where they never prune until
the tenth year a

6U

For the last twenty years in the department of Marne they have
made use of a very simple and expeditious means for pruning, by
which a child of ten years may do without fatigue the work ofan able
dresser. It consists of a crooked knife that does not close, and which
has a wooden handle about four inches long and an inch thick; the
thumb of the hand that holds the knife is provided with a hard white-
wood thimble or thumb-case, large enough to fit well. With the left
hand the workman puts the twig to be cut between the edge of the
knife and the thumb-case, and clips it with perfect ease, without so
much as moving the arm or the wrist. The twig is cut three inches
above an eye; and this sort of cutting is found on trial to be as useful
as simple. This process singularly diminishes the fatigue, and sim-
plifies and hastens the operation of pruning, which has often to be
done with promptness, The child can neither wound himself nor his
neighbours, and cuts the stem boldly, rapidly, and neatly. There is
also a newly invented pair of shears for pruning, controlled by a spring
with which even the most ignorant hands can do the pruning expedi-
tiously and regular. They are known by the name of the Vine Shears,
(ciseauz pour la vigne) of Edme. Regnier.

CHAPTER XI.

OF CLIPPING, OR BUDDING.

-

Clipping is an operation intended to divest the plant of superfiuous
branches, and strengthen those which are bearing fruit. It is a
means of making the Vines flourish and yield grapes that are long,
full, well gilt, having much mucilaginous pulp, and fit to produce
superior wine.

It has an influence on the duration of the stock, and the crops of
successive years. The execution of it is almost always abandoned to
women or even children, which would not be the case if it were only
generally understood that it requires as great a combination of ideas
as pruning ; in that case it would be reserved for sensible and instruct-
ed vine-dressers. ’

A stock well clipped, with the superfluous sprigs shorn clean tothe
stem, is easier to prune next year. But a female day-labourer or child
ean scarcely be competent to judge what shoots to suppress or which to
leave, especially if the Vine has but few branches. Suppose there
are two or three weak stems, each with a bunch, and two vigo-
rous shoots, springing from the foot, but without fruit, as often hap-
pens in years when there have been hard spring frosts,—they will
suppress those two fine shoots without perceiving that they deprive
the vine-dresser of one resource for the layering of the following
‘year. When there is a superflux of grapes, they are not apt to cut
off the foot-scions, because those too have grapes upon them; and
being left, they materially weaken the powers of the fruit-bearing
stems. If they find on the newly pruned wood, shoots too large to be
easily taken off by the hand, they generally twist them off rudely,
and make a large gash in the new wood, instead of cutting them off
with a sharp knife quite close to the knob of the eye. Ifthe spring
has been, unfavorable, and there are a great many branches without
grapes, they will not be likely to leave on the newly pruned wood
three, four, or perhaps five of the strongest shoots, according to the

op74

strength of the stem, so that the sap may be drawn in that direction,
and the next year’s harvest not suffer entirely in consequence of
the want of good wood.

As may be seen from the above suppositions, the regulation of this
process is of serious importance ; it depends on the localities, on the
degree of richness in the soil, of the present and previous state of
the atmosphere ; so also, the period at which it must be done. ;

As a general rule—the vine-dresser, before he begins to clip, and
crush away useless buds, must wait until the fruit is formed; it must
be done in fine weather, when the sun has well dried the ground and
rendered it firm, so that the trampling and beating down of the feet
around the plants need not have as serious effects as if the earth were
moist or miry. To wait until the Vine is in blossom exposes it to
blighting. By leaving too many shoots for wood, that is sterile shoots,
the fruit-bearing branches are deprived of the necessary aliment ; and by
leaving too many fruit-bearers, the stock is exhausted, and several
bad seasons are the consequence.

No clipping should be performed without the aid of the pruning-
knife; by breaking off large shoots, already grown woody, large
wounds and rents are apt to made in the main-stems, which are hard
to be healed, and lead sooner or later to untimely decay.

CHAPTER XII.

OF PROPPING OR SUPPORTING.

The use of props is not general; in some vine-yards they only tie
together the stems at top, without giving them any other support
than they lend to each other; this practice was in use among the
Grecians. But in the greater number of vineyards, especially those
im the northern departments, propping is looked upon as one of the
most profitable modes of cultivating the Vine. A long pole or prop,
or post is put down beside each stock and the large shoots are tied to
it with straw, or rushes, or osiers. There is a diversity of opinion on
this subject among our most celebrated vine-growers. Those who are
in favor of it, say that a propped Vine yields wine of a superior quali-
ty ; that it resists the force of the winds; that there is a long period
during which it can receive tillage; that it is not subject to being
choked up by the weeds; that the fruit is clean and free from being
spattered with dirt by the rains; that it is less lable to rot; and is
more exposed to the genial influence of the sun.

According to the others, propping is more injurious than bene-
ficial; that, firstly, wood being scarce and high, it unprofitably swells
the list of troubles and expenses attendant on the cultivation; se-
condly, that the grapes are held too far from the ground for a fully suffi-
cient ripeness; thirdly, that great and long continued heats render
_ the ascending movement of the sap dilatory, and the elevated stock is
therefore not as productive ; fourthly, that the bunches pressed against
each other, shade each other too much, and deprive each other of the
sun and air; fifthly, that the post or prop, presses, wounds, breaks
or tears the roots, and opens a passage for the rains, which conse-
quently makes them mould, and necessarily brings on the rot.

I shall not discuss or contradict the one or the other, There is both
truth and exaggeration on both sides. Custom is law; whether the
prop be planted at the foot of each stock, or whether in the centre of
four, trained over it in hive or dome-fashion, the difference is all one

b4

’ tome, i shall only examine the manner in which the posts should
be made.

The most proper wood is, without denial, heart of oak; the next
best, chesnut and mulberry; even elm, ash or maple may be used;
but willow or poplar should be avoided, and also alder, the porous,
sappy wood of which scarcely lasts a year. Coppice-wood or sap-
ling props are very poor, although the wood be seven or nine years
old. Good props should be of logs of fifteen or twenty year old wood,
five feet long, six inches thick, and split in four; the corners well
smoothed by the hatchet, the sharp end charred, and the bark strip-
ped entirely. The time for putting down the props is just before the
first spring tillage and before the shooting of the buds. They must
be put down deep enough to stand *he winds and drought, but with
care.soas not to injure the roots.

CHAPTER XIIL.

OF TYING OR BINDING.

There are, properly speaking, two sorts of tying or binding; the
first for espalier Vines is binding, and consists in nailing up the
branches and shoots against the wall with loops of osier. ‘The second,
for propped Vines, is tying ; it is to fasten the yourtg shoots against
the prop or palisade of posts.

The tie is put round the third or fourth joint above the Jast bunch
of the uppermost shoot. If there is considerable new wood of differ-
ent sizes on the stock, and these shoots would be forced too much
from their natural position by tying all together, the tying should be
performed in two or three places ; otherwise the grapes will be hable
to rot. A twist of rushes, bass or rope of straw is used for this purpose.
In clipping, there are often some shoots or sprigs neglected fo be
removed; they should be cleared out at the time of tying, as also
those that have grown out since the time of clipping.

The most favorable time for tying is immediately after the flower-
ing. Then the new wood is all nearly quite evolved, and is tender
and requires to be fastened, to allow no purchase to the wind, which
stunts the shoots, or what is worse, breaks them short off at their origin.

In the larger part of Southern France, tying is thought useless ; in
all the northern part part its excellent effects are highly prized. We
owe to it the superior wines of the Marne, and much also is due to it
for the support it gives to the slender, thin stems of the Pineau or
pine-cone grape, the staple of the renowned vineyards of Cote-d’Or
of L’Yonne, and of Saone and Loire. Doubtless, tying is expensive,
but its advantages compensate the time and money that it requires.
In the South, they may get through without it, butin our northern
departments it is indispensable.

[seek
ag

CHAPTER XIV.

OF TOPPING.

This is an operation which is performed on the shoots and lateral
wood, after they have been fastened to the prop and are from two
and a half to three feet long. The young shoot is brittle, and so is
generally broken at the joint, or else cut with the pruning knife ;
it should be cut about an inch above the knot and care should be
taken to keep the leaf just below it. It is always done at the same
time as the training, and is left to the skill of the women, though
wrongly so :—because the operation is sometimes useless and even
to a certain point injurious; at other times it is necessary, to give
play to the sap and accelerate its influx in the direction of the fruit
It takes but little time or trouble to do it well. On Vines trained
along low trellises, all the strong shoots should be topped at the
ninth or tenth joint ; perhaps a little higher or lower according to
their situation. The shoots that gad above the props are topped,
to allow them no higher than their props; and all feeble new wood
is topped at the seventh or eighth joint. If it has not reached that
number of joints it must be let alone until the second topping: in the
first week of the month of August.

The second operation requires more care than the first; it consists
in cutting at the second joint all the sub-shoots that have sprouted
out on the already topped new wood ; it is done to force the sap te
retrograde and aid more efficiently in strengthening the stem, ma.
turing the fruit, and predisposing the lower part of the yearling
wood to form fruit-buds. It is sometimes delayed till the vintage
is near at hand, especially if the weather is very hot and dry.

There are some stocks that will require to be topped three times
in the season; the third topping is done when the grapes seal to
turn, never before.

The toppings are given to horses, cows, and sheep, who eat them
very greedily : but as they are very heating, it is best to spread and
‘dry them and then stack them for winter fodder. This fodder has a
sweet and high relish to cattle.

CHAPTER XV.

OF GIRDLING.

Girdling is a means of forcing the ripening of the grape, and in-
creasing its size and qualities. By the oldest records we have, it
appears that it is a process that has been long and well known, and
‘was used to prevent the blighting of the Vine. All writers on agri-
culture, from Theophrastes and Pliny, down to Julius Hygin, speak
of it in the most unequivocal terms, as a practice in use among all
the gardeners and vine-dressers of their time.

It was accomplished by twisting, wrenching or half-breaking
the branches; by driving large pegs into the trunk ; or finally, as I
have seen done by many farmers in Italy, by taking off from the
stems circular bands of bark, of indifferent breadths, shortly before
the opening of the fiower. Notwithstanding its utility, the method
had been lost or dropped during the middle ages, or only used in some
eireumseribed localities.

In the beginning of the XVIIth century Olivier de Serres revived
it in Franeés since his time Magnol recommended it asa means of
increasing the quantity and quality of the olive crop. Buffon and his
worthy disciple, Duhamel Dumonceau, tried it on other fruit-trees.
Rozzer, on his side, tried many experiments with it which are record-
ed in the Agricultural Transactions ; while my late friend, the cele-
brated Andre Thouin, of the Institute, has demonstated its surprising
results; not only on all the trees comprised under the head‘of stone
or seed-fruit, nut or berry-bearing trees, but on woody plants of very
distant families. Fora practical proof of its application to the Vine,
I may cite M. Lambry, who owns a large nursery at Mandres, near
Brie-Comte-Robert, (Seine and Oise,) and who has girdled his Vines
regularly for the last forty years, and constantly recovered large and
excellent crops. Such is the abridged history of girdling, against
which, from time to time, some idle ignoramus raises here and there,
a solitary voice. .
; Girdling should be resorted to when a cold or damp spell retards

68

the evolution of the fruit, and six or eight days before the blossom
opens, rarely longer and sometimes less. It may also be done at
any time from the commencement of the ascent of the sap, and so long
as the blossom lasts, but it is better that it should be rather near to
the time of flowering than distant from it. If done late it is of no
service to prevent blighting, though still it preserves its other proper-
ties, those of hastening the ripening, and of securing an abundance
of fruit, and of a finer quality than can be had otherwise. It may be
done as well on the old as new wood ; that is, on the stock, the main-
branches, the old laterals, and the shoots of the year. However,
last year’s wood should be preferred; the wood of the year bears the
fruit, and is too tender at the season for girdling to allow the operation
to succeed well.

The way it is done is to remove a ring of the bark or cortex, clean
to the true wood; not a particle or fibre of the pellicle, (the liber,)
between the wood and the bark should be left. The size of the ring
should vary from the 1-14th of an inch, to an inch in breadth,
accarding to the subject, the soil, the season, the exigence of the case
and the intention proposed by the operation. This ring insensibly
spreads ; the foliage takes a maturer look; the leaves become of a
swarthy red if the wood is affected. Some days after, a fortnight at
furthest, the cambium, (the viscous sap between the wood and the
liber,) exudes from under the bark, like a gum, gradually hardening,
and extending over the wood without adhering to it, and forming a
slightly salient, barky collar, or pad, around the stem. This pad at
first runs rapidly, then more slowly, until it reaches the lower edge of
the ring, to which it unites itself, resembling the barkeas much as
possible, and in the second year becomes a real cortical formation.
When the encrustation becomes complete around the wound, then
the grapes swell, begin to change their colour, and by their forced
maturity are ready for the wine-vats eight or ten days sooner than
they w6uld have been without girdling. If the supplemental bark
does not form, the girdled branch dies the next spring. This is of no
importance to the Vine, as at that time it would of course have all the
last year’s sprouts, (with the exception of stools from two or three at
most, to be left for the new wood to spring from,) cut off and cleared
away. Ifthe girdled branch does not bear enough of fruit the second
year, the operation may be repeated.

In good seasons, girdling should not be resorted to; it is then quite
as hurtful as it is of service in rainy seasons. For a general rule,
also, 1t must not be done every year, unless on stocks that are very
sterile, and hard to bear or are given te blighting. On stool-vines

69

that is, vines that are low and support themselves without propping,
girdling too often repeated, would be fatal. For low vines, the inci-
sion should be made on the wood of the preceding year, below every
fruit-bearing shoot. The wood above the incision profits by it, while
that which is below, together with the root, suffers: but, as the part
which has profited at the expense of the rest, becomes a root next
year, by layering, with the strongest fibres springing from the barky
ring, because that is the thickest part, there is, finally, nothing lost
by it, but rather a gain.

In tall-stock traiming the girdling is done at the spring of the bend ;
that is, the fruit-bearing branches that are twisted to stop the elonga-
tion of the wood, and prevent the descent of the sap, have the incision
made just below the wrench. In stool-vines, it is the fruit-bearing
stem itself that is girdled, unless the shoot is too young and slender
to allow any operation. If every one of the stems were to be girdled,
the new wood would profit at the expense of the old wood, and as,
(unless they be layered,) all that new wood will be pruned off
next spring, the Vine would suffer a great waste of substance
without any sort of use: and would soon sink under such unna-
tural handling. It has been said that girdling can only be an
agreeable occupation for an amateur or market-gardener speculating
in early fruit ; a physiologist studying the secret springs of nature;
or an enlightened agriculturist, seeking remedies for an irregular dif-
fusion of the sap; all such, finally, as can afford to sacrifice branches
or even the plants themselves, for the sake of their profit or instruc-
tion. On account of this character of inutility having been imputed
to girdling, experiments have been undertaken in several vineyards. I
shall give them as they have been transmitted to me.

In the department of Cote d’Or, shoots of the Pine-cone grape ( Pi-
neau) and Gamet, girdled in the spring, yielded bunches more filled
with berries and those of a larger kind and more sugary flavour, than
the rest: they also ripened twenty days sooner than those on the
neighbouring plants that were not girdled ;—but it was remarked,
especially at Beaune, that the juice gave but slight indications of
tartaric acid, the presence of which is thought to assist in the preser-
vation of wines. It was by some, recalled to mind, that girdling had
been formerly in use in that department, under the title of controlling,
but was given up on account of its weakening the stocks and
causing the wine that was made from them to be unfit for keeping.
In the department of L’Yonne, several rows were submitted to the

operation, alternately, every other row being left untouched. The
consequence was, that none of the girdled Vines blighted, and the
fruit on them ripened ten days earlier.

mo

In the vine-grounds of Epernay, Champagne, (de le Marne) the
shoots ofa number of stocks, subject to blighting every year, no mat-
ter how favorable the season, were girdled with perfect success. The
grapes were large and full, while the Vines that had not been experi-
mented on, bore none at all, or very meagre ones. The planters of
those vineyards do, nevertheless, think girdling an unsuitable opera-
tion. ‘Our high, delicate, neat wines,” say they, “are made from
‘- grapes picked out with great care, from among the slenderest and
‘‘most thinly furnished bunches; such, of course, as have been
“‘affected by the blighting of the Vines. By preventing blighting,
‘therefore, it is very likely that we may injure the quality of our
‘‘wines, which is essentially the basis of their great value, high
‘price and extensive consumption.

In the departments of Rhone, de l’Ain, and Loire, where girdling
has been in use since 1790, at which time Lancry, a botanist and far-
mer of great acquirements made it the vogue, they are well convin-
ced of its importance, but it is thought that its advantages are at the
expense of the girdled stems, which are apt to wither and finally
cause the loss of the branch, if the edges of the wound do not become
encrusted in time. In the departments of Seine and Marne, la Ven-
dee, Deux Sevres, Gironde, Basses Pyrennes, and in all those
situated on the sonthern shores of the Rhone, its effieaey in prevent-
ing blighting has been fully established. All the stocks that it has
been tried on have given fine grapes which rapidly attained their
natural size, and were full ripe long before all others.

At Meudon (Seine) and in a few other places, it has been observed
that the wine from girdled stems is pale and less alcoholic; on the
contrary, in the vineyards of Meurthe it is.of a richer colour and every
way better than that from the branches that have not been subjected
to the annular incision.

In the department of Ariege, it was found that girdling on young
wood makes it liable to break with the first blast of wind, but that
this inconvenience does not exist when it is the old wood that is
operated on, the shoot of which is solidly attached to a prop.

The reader should be warned not to draw a rigorous conclusion
from these various opinions and singular facts; our theories in vege-
table physiology are not yet complete enough to account for all the
curious. accidents that now and then occur. Sufficient attention also
is not given to the inequalities of contexture in the different species
of the Vine, to the influences of the soil, exposure, climate, manner
of culture, &c. &c. All these points, which are now either obscurely
understood, or very difficult to estimate, may cause very different
results in cases absolutely the same to appearance.

71

What 1 can affirm is, that far from having observed that grapes
from girdled stems were less rich in colour, less sugary, or more
watery than others, I have always seen on the Vines of those plant-
ers who used this operation, that the grapes were larger, more plenti-
ful, more sugary and more vinous. Moreover, these qualities, indispen-
sable for a superior wine, must be the result of girdling, the undispu-
ted and positive advantages of which are, Ist. infallibly to prevent
blichting, if done skillfully and opportunely ; 2nd. to hasten the matu-
rity by twelve or fourteen days, thus securing a long and excellent
period for the ripening before the vintage.

There are cases when it cannot be done; two of them [ shall no-
tice ; when, for instance the branch is to be trained in a spire, or bent
into an arch ; because the welt of bark formed around the twig is so
brittle’ that the branch is endangered if tightly bent. In spiral-trained
Vines only lateral shoots should be girdled. The second case is, when
the planter is convinced that the peculiar excellence of his wine
depends upon the stocks being suffered to blight; girdling must be
reserved for stocks to which damping-off or blighting is ruinous.

We have many instruments good for girdling, but there is a choice
among them. Some make too large a ring, which renders the healing
of the cut more difficult; others are apt to become clogged every
minute and must be cleaned out with a thin blade, which causes delay.
The best are those which assist to effect it speedily and without risk.
The cutting nippers (pince incisive) of Bettinger. and the girdler
(bagueur) of Quentin Durand are of this kind, (figures are given of
these instruments in the plate.) They are calculated to loosen the
skin and the pellicle, but require a careful workman. If any of
the pellicle be left, the sap continues to run; if the cut goes too
deep, there is much danger of the branch being ruined ; therefore,
these patent instruments are highly necessary.

CHAPTER XVI.
OF GRAFTING,

A well planted vineyard lasts from fifty to sixty years, often longer,
and during all that time bears well, if properly attended to. But it is
not in full bearing until the sixth or even the seventh year. This in-
convenience, which falls heavy on the planter, is relieved by grafting.

If through any negligence or ill habit, the Vines begin to languish,
and make no adequate return for the care of their cultivation, it is in that
case best to resort to grafting. Indeed if we consider the trouble of
replanting, of grubbing out old stocks, of the long and arduous atten-
tion already spent on each stock, any means that will prolong the
existence of the plants is worth attending to. In certain districts of
the departments of Bouches-du-Rhone, Gironde, Cote d’Or and
L'Yonne, grafting is much in use and very generally liked. I have
understood that it is practised at Vevay in Ohio, where a good wine
is raised by the emigrant Swiss.

The principal aim of grafting is to renew the Vine the same season
that. it meets an injury from frost or drought ; or to substitute to a
poor plant, a slip of a better quality or different species. Grafting,
also, as is well known, has a remarkable power of ameliorating the
nature of the fruit. It is a very ancient art ; when applied to the Vine
it is easily done, and its success certain. The sap of the Vine ascends
by all the capillary vessels indifferently, without any distinction be-
tween the liber, cortex or wood ; a particular in which it is very differ-
ent from such plants as have their conduits of the sap exclusively
between the wood and the bark. This peculiar contexture of the
Vine fits it for slit-grafting through the whole of the wood. It is un-
important whether the scion be inserted vertically or slantwise ; the
wood unites to the wood no matter in what way they are joined.
The slit soon fills up, and does not canker as grafted trees usually do.

Grafting, it must be said, is only applied to thick large Vines; it
has been discovered, at least so the Vine-growers of Marne insist,
that it does not agree with slender ones.

73

For gratting the Vine, the thickest and strongest lateral wood must
be taken ; if the cuttings are of thin twigs they will be likely to wither
with the sun and wind. The foot or lower part of a cross-shoot, where
there are two or three eyes, very close together, is the kind most
likely to succeed ; the wood in such a specimen is solid, fibrous, thick ;
and the circulation plentiful and free. These grafts must be cut before
hard frost, tied in bundles, and put away in a cellar or vault, or
under loose earth.

There are several kinds of grafting used for Vines; shoulder-graft-
ing succeeds well on old stocks; so does budding, or insertion ; but
the most common are slit-grafting and tongue-grafting : latterly es-
cutcheon-grafting has been much used in spring before the ascent of
thesap. Grafting by approach also will succeed ; but the most favor-
able of all methods is crown-grafting on the root.

Grafting on the root is the best of all; but I should first remark,
that in some circumstances, grafting should be performed on the stock ;
for instance, when it is wanted to have from one plant that is thriving,
others of the same kind by layering, to fill up empty spots. The sci-
ons to be used in grafting, are to be cut before the sap ascends into
them. It is best to gather them in the fall, and bury them for six
inches of their length into loose mould, secure from frosts, and the
earth be dampened sufficiently to prevent them from drying away.
The same preeaution must be used with cross-branches cut in the
spring, before the ascent of the sap. But the best time for gathering
the grafts is just after the fall of the leaf. A vine-dresser with proper
foresight should always have such in reserve, that they may be ready
in the spring if wanted. If no grafts are needed, these same scions
can be planted out to take root, and provide nurseries of slips.

The graft should comprise both yearling and two year old wood;
the former should be 8 or 9 inches in length, and the latter, which is
to form the wedge to be inserted in the root, should be 3 or 4 inches
ain length.

Before undertaking the operation, the Vine should be allowed to
exhaust the first access of the sap, which is so overflowingly abundant
in the first fine spring weather; because it is rather distilled water
than juice, and the quantity would be likely to drown the grafts. It

‘is therefore more prudent to wait, as is commonly expressed, until the
Vine has done weeping, at which time the buds are so far evolved as
to show the leaves. The«sap has then acquired a consistence suffi-
cient to agglutinate the graft to the incision, and the grafts having
been cut before the rise of the sap, will not have budded, and will be
the more ready to suck the sap and set in motion the circulation that

is to cement them to the Vine.
: 39

-~

é4

Wien Speed and economy are te be consulted, two men anda child
ten or twelve years of age, are necessary. One lays bare the stocks
with a hoe to the depth of sixteen inches, and cleans them sufficiently
of the earth around for the ingrafter to work at his ease. One of the
workmen saws the stems about six or seven inches below the level
of the ground ; while he is thus employed on the first row, the ingraft-
er shapes his grafts and arranges them, as fast as he fixes them, ina ba-
sin, in which there is enough of water to cover entirely the wedges or
inserting-points of the grafts ; these points must be three or four inches
long, and as slender as possible. The sloping of these wedges, in
other words their trimming, should commence immediately below the
joint or knot by which the two-year-old wood is attached to the year-
jing wood.

The first row being dug down and sawed, the ingrafter, with a
very sharp grafting-tool smoothes the sawed part of the root, makes
the slit, and inserts one, two, or three grafts, according to the strength
of the root, and in such a way as to make the separations between
the grafts as small as possible. It is even more easy ard certain not
to insert the third graft until after the ligature has been put on. The
ingrafter is followed by the child who hands him the knife, the grafts,
or the strings, or osier, as they are wanted. The child carries also a
basket filled with short mould. The ligature being tied, the ingrafter
lays on a good handful of the mould from the basket, and fills the hole
up with the loose earth around, leaving only two eyes of each graft
above ground. After this, there are no precautions necessary save
not to derange the jgrafts during the tillage necessary in the vine-
yard. Women should not be allowed to enter it, lest their clothes
might brush the loosely fastened scions. The tillage should not be
very deep; nothing more need be done than simply to clear away the
weeds by slightly raking the ground. In striving to do more there is
a danger of disturbing the new roots that are forming and shooting
from the grafts at their insertion.

An expert ingrafter may operate on two hundred Vine roots and
more, in the course of aday. In many districts, the Bordelais espe-
cially, the workman is paid three francs the hundred for all that take.

Vegetation is not very obvious upon them until the month of July ;
but then the shoots sprout with a surprising rapidity; and if the
eyes above ground were really good buds, they will bear grapes which
will be ripe in time for the vintage. Large props should not be put
down beside the grafts the first year. The purchase they give to the
wind causes a shaking-of the ground, that puts back theroots. Slen-
der wands a yard long are quite sufficient for props. If the shoots

12) ae

£0

exceed that height, care must be taken to top them down to that mea-
sure during the summer.

To succeed well in grafting, only such species should be joined, as

are analogous in their fruit and the texture of their wood. Those
kinds that bear thick strong stems will never thrive on stocks of frail
and slender branches; but those varieties that have long delicate
stems will become more vigorous and productive if grafted on those
having a coarser, stronger sort of wood. But the white kind should
not be crossed with the red; the grape only leses by it, if intended for
wine ; at least the red grape does.
' There are many species that are ameliorated by grafting, made to
bear choicer fruit and also in greater quantity. And all kinds that
will not thrive in the soil, by being inserted into roots that do succeed
in it, flourish without difficulty.

Calm clear weather is the only time for grafting. If a heavy rain
takes place after it, there are many chances against its ultimate
success. Then the superabundant moisture makes the sap watery,
and too thin to cement and agglutinate the scion to its new root. As
soon as the grafts do take they must be freed from the weeds. The
topping of the shoot also, should not be forgotten.

CHAPTER XVII.

OF LEAFING.

Leafing helps the crop and tbe vine; the former it renders more
flavorous and rich, and the latter stouter in the wood. It is done in
the following manner. The day before undertaking the second til-
lage, which is generally done in June or July, according as the wea-
ther is more or less favorable, a workman who understands pruning
is sent to remove the large leaves from the lower and middle parts of
the stock. He then trims from the end of the main-stem, the sprigs
and small laterals which have sprouted out there in consequence of the
great flow of sap, and allows to remain at the head of it, only the large
leaves belonging to the eyes and sub-eyes of two or three shoots.
There is no need in doing this, for the use of any instrument; the
fingers are sufficient for lifting the leaves; but, immediately after the
first tillage, care must have been taken to cut away below the ground,
those scions to the origin of which the pruning-knife could not reach.
It is known that the more surface is presented to the air by the
vine, the more moisture it absorbs; which, if it is more than can be
transpired, liquefies the sap, and makes the wine watery and liable to
spoil. . Leafing, therefore, by diminishing the extent of surface, makes
the sap richer, the grapes more bulky and the wine more alcholic.
Besides, it throws the action of the sun upon the fruit, forcing the
juices to become more elaborate and perfecting the ripening to the
most desirable degree.

Those cultivators who leaf their vines assure me that they are less
injured by storms; less given to blighting; that the fruit is evidently
enriched, and there is every argument in favor of the supposition, that
it will lengthen the term of life for the plant. But it must be re-
marked that all this is meant for such vines as are growing inmoist and
heavy soils ; in dry earths and warm exposures, leafing is hurtful. This
is an observation that has not escaped the notice of Theophrastus. In
Calabria, and more particularly near Reggio and Scylla, far from
removing a single leaf, during the great heats they protect the vines
with a matting of ferns, lest the fruit should be wilted and stinted by
the burning of the sun. 2 Oe

BOOK SECOND.

—_—j>-—

DISEASES AND CASUALTIES TO WHICH THE VINE IS
LIABLE; WITH THE MODE OF PREVENTION & CURE.

CHAPTER IF.
OF FROST.

As the Vine is a native of warm climates, frost is the most likely
and the most common enemy it has to encounter. It is the early fail
frosts that disorganize the shoots not yet completely hardened into
wood; the greatest ravages are caused by these late attacks, which
result often in immedicable injuries to the fruit-bearing branches.
Hard winter frosts are by no means as dangerous; they never, at least
in France, hurt any vines but those in low grounds and cold soils.
Nature has supplied the bud of the Vine with a species of downy co-
vering, and as it contains scarcely any watery secretion it has not
much to fear from the cold. It is an extremely rare case for the Vine
to be frozen entirely; when it is only the stems that have suffered,
they are pruned just before the rise of the sap. Spring frosts, some-
times, have serious consequences when they are very heavy and very
late; more generally, however, they have but a slight effect upon

the shoots.

To prevent the all-important shoot from being nipped by the frost,
the Vine-dresser follows this plan. He puts between the rows, and
along the edges of the vine-yards, on the windward side, heaps of dry
grass and dead leaves, litter, spoiled hay ; these are covered over with
wet brush, and a little earth; and are set on fire an hour before
sunrise. The thick smoke intercepts the rays of the sun, warms the
air, and melts the frost into dew. This is tke means used on the

78

banks of the Rhine, where the north wind blows severely ; and if it
were not for this cheap and simple remedy against frost, there would
be little chance for the hope of the vintager in that quarter.

Another means recommended, is sprinkling before sunrise by means
of an engine; or the use of certain frost-conductors, invented by M.
Bienenberg, cultivator at Lignitz, in Siberia. The inventor assures
us that he has derived great advantage from them on fruit-trees for
several years. His frost-conductors are made with ropes of straw, or
hemp, or bark; he winds them round the trees and coils the other
end at the bottom of a vessel filled with spring water. A single ves-
sel is sufficient for all the trees of a large espalier. Several of these
ropes may be put together to surround a definite space, but then both
of the ends must be led to the vessel, which should be at least 4 or 6
yards distant from any tree, on account of the frost deposited in it,
and which, if too near, would strike back to some of the ransomed
trees. This singular preservative is used in several parts of Prus-
sia and Poland. Instead of moveable vessels, stationary reservoirs
might be put down with small expense, along the borders of every
vine-vard. It is an experiment worth trying on a large scale.

2. Of Hail Storms.

Next to the injuries of Frost, may be counted those of Hail; a sin-
gle shower of which, in spring or summer, is sufficient to destroy the
hopes of the whole season. The hail tears the leaves, bruises the
shoots, breaks the stems, in fine, covers the whole vine with wounds
and hurts, and gives it the most dismal aspect. The only thing to be
done is to wait until the dreadful gust has passed, and immediately
prune the plant to re-establish it. The cutting should be made on the
old wood; only a few main-branches, and those cut short, are to be
left. All the condemned shoots must be cut away clean to the branch.
Not long after, the stock sends out a new crop of buds, which give
grapes the following year, and indemnify the owner the third year
by a most luxuriant vintage. Those who will not take the pains to
do this justice by their vines, have scarcely crops worth the name,
even at the third year.

However, if the hail storm happens after the middle of July, it is
better to remove the wounded wood and no more, for there is then
but little to be gained by severe pruning. In the greater number of
places, the wood, from that time, will not have a chance to ripen, and
of course will be destroyed by the first winter frosts. But the hail

79

rods, (paragreies,) vented by M. Laposiolle of Amiens, and brought
to perfection by Professor Trollard of Tarbes, are the only proper
preventative of the damages of hail. To make the hail-rod, a rope of
straw is the first thing necessary ; it must be made of ripe rye or
wheat-straw, soaked and twisted, then plaited with three strand, and
then plaited with four ply, making twelve strand tothe rope. This
cable of straw must be 25 feet long, and through the centre of it
there must run a strong twine of tow yarn of twelve or fifteen strands
to the twist; and it must be fastened at top and bottom to a stake
of the same length, solidly fixed in the ground, and armed at the top
with a metallic point of latten, (tin,) and not of iron. The stake
should be a pole of firm wood, entirely cleared of the bark which
makes it liable to rot. The rope is fastened at each end by a wire of
tin or what is better, red copper; and must be stretched tight and tied
to the pole at every foot and a half with the same wire. The tin
point at top should be 14 inch. thick and 8 inch. long, and be in
direct contact with the tow-yarn. These hail-rods should be about
600 feet apart, and fixed in the most elevated points, such as the
tops of hills, the roofs of houses, or the trunks of stout trees. Among
us they cost about a franc a piece, (20 cents,) and last at least fif-
teen years. Public experiments, on a very large scale have been
made with them in several districts that used to be incessantly afflict-
ed with hail storms, and the most unequivocal success has been the
result. To prove, however, how error and deception forever are at
hand to pervert all human undertakings, we may make the passing
remark, that several learned men have opposed the authority of their
names, well known in science, against this discovery and endeavoured
to explain away its utility by any and every accidental cause. But
the fact is, that the cantons in Italy, Switzerland and France (vide
Linnean Annals,) which are guarded with hail-rods, find the clouds
that used to break over them with desolating hail and thunderbolts,
now pass away or descend in imrain. The principle on which they
act, is thought tobe, by their attracting and detaining vapours in a
lower region of the air than the one in which frost is formed.

Of Fogs.

Fogs are less hurtful to vines that is commonly thought; they
fertilize when they happen during tillage ; in autumn they assist the
ripening of the grape; but if they last too long, they rot the berry ;
and cold mists render the plant more susceptible to frost and dispose

3U

it to blight in the Spring. The skill of man has never yet discovered
either remedy or preventative to this surcharge of moisture in the
atmosphere and its effects.

4 Of the Plush or Plethora.

This disease proceeds from the too great abundance of nourishing
juices that are afforded to the plant, by a hot, deep soil. It only
happens in those excellent and heavy bottoms in which the lower lay-
ers are richer than the surface. It shows itself firstly by the vines,
sprouting jets and spriglets at every joint, at the expense of the fruit,
the most of which dwindles away ; the wood swells and reddens, and

spreternaturally thick; it is full of buds and eyes, and becomes brit-
tle. At first, of the berries that ripen, some are enormously large,
others of small, irregular sizes; but in a season or so, the grapes be-
come dwarfed and are not bigger than small peas. The Gamet and
Melier kinds are most liable to this distemper. The only method
is to tear up the diseased stock; to dig deep and lay open the soil
that it may mellow freely; to open trenches to isolate and confine
the roots; to replace the earth taken out by worn out, washed soil,
sand, moor sods, &c.; and to set out a new slip and not plant it deep-
er than 6 inches.

Of the Goupillure or Stint.

This disease is owing to a soil too poor, the deceitful surface of
which has induced the planter to set out, while the bottom is only of
clean sand. It rarely shows itself until ten years after planting, and
just after a remarkably fine vegetation and crop; but it then is irreme-
diable. The plant having then sprouted its roots to the uttermost,
without being able to obtain the aliment it seeks from the sandy
substratum, pines, and grows feeble, gives a meagre crop, and instead
of sprouting its leaves in an oblique direction, they stand horizontally.
There is no cure, the stocks must be grubbed out.

A complete knowledge of the nature of the ground chosen for the
vine-yard, is the only safe-guard against the invasion of this complaint.
In such soils as will produce it, the only way is to plant no deeper
than 9 inches, and in the fifth or sixth year to intrench the stocks;
the roots then must run near to the surface and keep deriving their
sustenance from the laver of good earth, without piercing deeper.

6. Of the Mildews.

This disease does not, in the least. resemble the mildew of wheat, it
should rather be termed a palsy of the vitality of the plant, which,
in fact, is the name given it in several places. It is caused by an un-
remitting excess of moisture, damp, or humidity around the roois,
or kept up around the plant by evaporation; it shows itself by the
diluted vigour of the sap, which runs all te wood; the stems are
blackish and dry to the pith. It generally strikes newly planted slips
that are set out in an improper situation.

7. Of Cankers.

Cankers often happen to the branches; they may origmate in some
internal cause not yet observed or understood; but they can generally
be traced to a stroke of the sun after a frost, a hard bruise, or the
touch of a heap of stable dung. In unfavourable seasons the rapidity
is astonishing, with which this disease will run through its diffe-
rent stages; but usually its progress is but slow. The remedy is to
run a knife above and below the part, around the stem, cutting
through the bark and pellicle to the wood, or binding the part tightly
with a string.

S. Diseases of the Leaves.

The Blast, the Rust, and the Yellows.

The Blast takes place in the summer, owing to hot South winds af-
tera fog. It appears suddenly; the leaves take a red hue and two
days after, fall off. The grapes wrinkle and dry up. The vine-dres-
sers, near Paris, call it the rougeau, the red piague. There is ano-
ther kind that is rarely dangerous; it is attributed to a hot sunshine
after rain, the rays passing through the drops that hang upon the plant
as through burning lenses. It gives the leaves a speckled appearance,
marbling them with large and small white spots.

The Rust is owing to a parasite fungus, the Erineus of the vine; it
forms on the lower surface of the leaves, spots of a tawny colour, of
irregular size and shape, and disorganizes the leaf. making it unfit to
fulfil its functions.

it

a2

The Yellows gives the plant a sad’ appearance; the wood will noi
become solid ; the fruit is scarce worth the name, and the poor, small
bunches fall off entirely. The disease affects the crops for two years.
When the leaves have fallen in consequence of the Blast, a light cap
or matting of straw fixed at top of the prop will, if any thing can,
shield the grapes and allow them to ripen. If the Rust has made its
appearance, cut the affected leaves before the seed-like shoots of the
fungus have ripened, and burn them. For the Yellows, the cure is
to warm the substratum if possible; intrenching is good, if no other
means can effect a restoration of the plant; but the most usual and
powerful means is, to turn in, around the foot of the vine, heating
manures, such as kennel mud and filth, ashes, street sweepings im-
pregnated with suds, slaughter-house rinsings, urines, &c.

9. The Blight or Barrenness of the Blossom. -

This is not exactly a disease, but only a casualty, arising from -
heavy, continued rain during the flowering. The rain carries away
the vivifying dust of the stamens and prevents the fecundation of the
germs in the capsule. Gzirdling isthe remedy. It may result from a
cold rain or severe frost, during the blossoming, or owing to the fa-
tigue caused by furious storms of winds; or by a thin ill-assimilated
sap. The effects may be prevented by girdling the fruit-stalk in
time. The strength of languishing vines may be restored by pier-
cing the trunk, by tying up the stems, by twisting the end of the
branches, or by watering the roots with diluted animal matters, wa-
ters slightly salted, or by liberally scattering over them soaked wood-
ashes.

CHAPTER II.

OF ANIMALS THAT ATTACK THE VINE.

J. QuADRUPEDS.

Wild hogs, foxes and’ weasels are excessively fond of the ripe
grapes. As these animals willingly return where they find a plentiful
supply of enticing food, they are killed at night with guns or snares.
Most other quadrupeds will eat the vine-shoots, leaves and fruit; but
itis the domestic dog that makes the most incalculable ravages in
the vine-yard- In several villages, and particularly at Espira de fa
Gli, near Perpionan, (Pyrenees Orientales,) several planters’ names
have been given me, who have been obliged to throw up this cultiva-
tion, on account of the depredations of the dogs, that carried away
nearly the whole of their crops. :

Vines in enclosures are not attacked by the dogs; they only prey
upon the crops of vineyards that are open and unfenced. To attempt
to poison either dogs or foxes by nux-vomica, as seme planters do, is
highly injudicious: ‘cattle or children are as likely tu fall victims as
those for whom the bait is laid. The right way is to diminish the
number of useless dogs, to oblige owners to tie up those they keep,
and to use guns to get ridded of the rest.

2. Of Birds.

There are many sorts of birds that are passionately fond of the
grape, and several of those are rendered quite luscious eating by the
delicate fare afforded them in the vintage season. They should be
caught with nets. The orioles and the finches are insatiable; where
the vintage is late, the thrushes cause great ravages. The starlings,
the blackbirds and several other birds of passage come down on the
vineyards in flocks; and, if let alone, will sometimes clear the whole
crop. And the same with the wild sparrows. However, their pillage

is nothing, When regulated by guns and scare-crows, compared to
their services in destroying the myriads of dangerous insects, whose
ravages are not easily to be forgotten.

3. Of Snails.

In general, snails, whether with or without shells, are not much to
be feared, though they live on the leaves of the vine. But there is
one kind, the vintager snail, which does severe damage in rainy sea-
sons. In the fall it deposits in the ground a great number of eggs,
which it conceals with much care ; they are white, spherical, covered
with a soft, membraneous skin, and united in clusters. These eggs
hatch in spring, and at the approach of winter, the snails, several
together, hide in holes, and keep in their shells, which they shut with
a calcarious operculum, and do not make their appearance until the
following spring. They work at night and eat the young shoots to
the wood; in the day, when tne atmosphere is dry and warm, they
keep under the largest leaves.

The hedge-hog and the tortoise devour these snails; the former, if
caught, is a saleable article for ragouts The snails can be destroyed
by means of powdered lime, or rather a dilution of lime sprinkled du-
ring the night, when the weather is rainy.

CHAPTER Iii.

OF INSECTS THAT ATTACK THE VINE.

The smaller that insects are, the more difficult of investigation does
their chain of being become, the greater is the care of nature for
their preservation, and the more numerous and active are their means
of reproduction. Insects attack every created thing ; and there is not
a plant that does not bear one or several families. Some prefer the
roots, others the trunk; some the leaves, cthers the flowers and
fruit; indeed there is no part of the plant which is not consumed by
insects.

The Vine, when introduced from its native country, brought with
it the peculiar insects it was destined to support; and it has also
made acquisitions of others which might as well be spared; and
which too often cut off the hopes of the vine-dresser, and deprive him
of the dues of his cares and labours. The vine-eating insects the
most troublesome in France are, the tree-beetles, or chaffers ; some
kinds of weevils; the red chrysamela and the lady-bug among the
coleopterous kinds; among the orthoptera, the grass-hopper, the red-
winged cricket, and the camel-cricket ; of the hemzptera; the Cher-
mes-vitis or Vine-Fretter, of the hymenoptera, the Wasps; of the
lepidoptera, some of the Pyralis; the several Sphinges; the moth
that attacks the berry, and the Miner-moth.

1. The Melolontha.

Of the coleopterous genus under which this family ranks, there are
two individuals which are severe on the Vine, the common cock-
ehaffer and the Vine-chaffer.

The cock-chaffer, or Melolontha vitis, in the perfect state devours
the leaves; the larva, or white grub is very troublesome about the
roots in vineyards newly set out. The species are abundant every
where, but more particularly troublesome in the northerly depart-
ments. They also feed on the leaves of the willow, poplar, and fruit
trees. The Vine-chaffer, (Scarabeus vitis) has but half the size of the

S6

€ommon beetle, and its ravages are more to be feared in the southern
provinces, where its destruction is frequently great. The perfect
insects can only be got rid of by watching upon what trees they
take their rest for the night ; these trees must be stoutly shaken ear-
ly in the morning before the dew dries, at which time the insects
are too weak to fly much; they fall to the ground in showers, quite
motionless, and by having here and there a hole ready in the turf,
and by sweeping them in with a rake or a shovel, a little straw and
shavings heaped over them and set on fire destroys the pest effec-
tually. The larve must be destroyed by the hoeing in May; when
they may be gathered by thousands, as they, at that time, work their
way up close to the surface, and are easily turned out. They may be
heaped and burned, or given as pasture to poultry, fowls and turkies
being especiaily fond of them.

Some have proposed as a remedy against the beetle and its grub
sprinklings of tallow, ashes, lime, lettuce seed &c. but all these are
inferior or ineffectual compared with the means just laid down.

2. The Cryptocephalus vitis.

is known under a great variety of common names, Clerk-beetle for

instance, from the traces like letters which it makes on the leaves
which it attacks.
This scourge of the vineyards is the Cryptocephalus vitis of Ento-
mologists. It is three lines and a half in length; the antennze black,
and yellow at the base; the head, corslet, belly and feet are black
and slightly velvetish ; the wing-cases are reddish-chesnut, rufous and
downy.

It lives on the leaves and tender shoots; it eats the foot-stalk of
the bunch, just as the blossom opens; it pierces the berry when ripe,
to deposit its eggs, which give birth to myriads of larve, and cause
a rotting of the fruit which cuts off the crop sometimes at the very
moment of gathering. The larva winters in the ground, mines and
countermines, penetrating among the roots, which it gnaws some-
times to the utter destruction of the plant. About the first of March
the larva begins its transformation and shortly after the insects come
out and couple in May.

There is no really effective means of putting an end to is Tavages
of this insect ; the peculiar meteorological changes of the air have
sometimes caused them to disappear for years. The only human re-
source against them is, the ploughing and tillage just before winter,
which exposes the larvee, when they may be raked out and destroyed ;
or the catching and killing of the perfect insect.

87

3. The Weevil.

The satin green weevil, Rhyncttes Bacchus, is small and generally
found in pairs. It settles on the young cluster, pierces the foot-stalk,
takes possession of a leaf, curls it and deposits its eggs init, ag-
glutinated to it by some viscous matter. These eggs are about the
size of a small pin’s head and of a yellowish white. The larva is
hatched in a fortnight ; it is without feet, six lines long, white, smooth
and witha yellow head. It first feeds upon the leaf in which it
was hatched ; and grubs in the ground or under dung during winter,
until its metamorphosis in the spring.

There are some seasons in which the Rhyncites rudens is so plenty,
that it pricks the forward grapes and sucks them, and rolls aimost
every leaf, which is a great injury, as the leaves are renewed at
the expense of the fruit, and the bunch, deprived of its nourishment
and support, wastes, wilts, and comes to nothing. The curled leaves,
nets, purses &c. in which the eggs are deposited, must be clipped off
and earefully carried to a distance from houses, woods, hedges &c.
and there burned; and about the close of the winter, the manure, if
any, around the root of the Vine, must be raised and set fire to; as
it is the place of refuge not only to this, but many other grubs. This
measure will make a pretty thorough clearance.

Another weevil called the grey weevil is highly destructive in the
South. It attacks the sprouts just as they begin to unfold and pre-
vents their full developement. In the departments of Aube, Gard
and Haute-Garonne, they use against it the usual precautions against
catterpillars in general.

4. The red Chrysomela.

This insect, the Chrysomela lucida of Linneus, feeds on the Vine
leaf, but the injuries it occasions are so small as to escape notice
except in seasons when they are uncommonly numerous ; but even
then, they are nothing to be compared to the ravages of those already
mentioned. .

®. Fhe Coccinella glebosa.

The larvz of this insect, commonly called lady-bug, eat the Vine-
leaves, but they will also, it is said, destroy the 4phides; they are
sometimes so numerous as to cover the stems; they have a horny
head, a naked body and tail, annular, with six feet.

ao
wo

6. The Grasshopper or Gryllus grillo-talpe.

This voracious insect gnaws holes in the joints of the Vines, which,
if they do not kill outright, will at least throw the plant into a state
of languor and debility which is finally fatal to its produce. This
grasshopper, a kind of mole-cricket, cuts the roots that lie in its way
and makes an active chase after other insects which it greedily de-
vours. The best means proposed to destroy it, is to keep -the soil
moist; but then it does not agree with the Vine. It may fora time
be the lesser evil of the two.

7. The Mantis religiosa or Camel-Cricket.

This insect is falsely accused of more injuries to the Vines than it
in reality commits. It is only in the larva state that it feeds on the
tender leaves. In its perfect state i‘ ‘ives on insects; it catches them
with singular address; and in eating, always commences upon one
end of the abdomen.

8. The red-winged Cricket —Acrydium stridulum.

The extremities of its red wings are black and folded lengthwise
under two coriaceous sheaths. The corslet is ridged and the hinder
legs are formed for leaping. It cats the leaves; is very voracious, and
its prodigious fertility make it formidable at times. The female lays
her eggs towards the close of autumn, in the cracks of fat soils,
where they remain until the first fine day in spring. By the end
of May the young crickets come forth ; they are not winged, and cast
their skins several times before the perfect state. eas

In our northern departments they are not numerous, and are caught
in nets; but they infest the South in some seasons to that degree,
that they have to be routed like armies. The starlings and some
other birds are fond of them. .

9. The Chermes viiis or Vine-Freiier.

Commonly called gall-fiy ; it is brownish, and settles on the irunk
and branches of the Vine, where it lays great quantities of eggs
which it protects with a light covering of white down from its bodr.

8g

The eggs are reddish, oblong and shining ; the young insect does
not pass through the larva state, and is of a light brown colour; the
greater number are devoured by another insect called ichneumon
coccorum. ‘Those which escape this enemy mostly attack the trel-
lised or arbour Vine ; the sap of which they so exhaust as to cause
the death of the plant, iftheir number is great. They adhere so firm-
ly to their hold, thatto clear them, a knife must be passed between
them and the bark, a very delicate operation, which must be per-
formed with great care.

10. The Wasp.

This insect attacks the very finest sorts of grapes; thus the Musk-
Chasselas, from which the Grenache wine is madeis, its favorite.
It pierces the epidermis, insinuates its trunk and sucks away the sacche-
rine mucilage tosuch a degree that the skin is often left a mere
empty shell.

But it should be told, that if the wasp does select the ripest grapes |
the berries it has pricked always contain less fermentable matters and
thereby influence the quality of the wine.

il. The Pyralis or Silver-Moth.

The male caterpillar of this kind commits great ravages in tiie
vineyards of the black Morillon. It is nearly two inches in length,
with sixteen feet, the head black, and smaller than the body, which
is ferruginous and composed of six rings with here and there a few
hairy moles. Its mouth is armed with nippers that cut the leaves,
stems, footstalks and epidermis of the berry. The injured parts gradu-
ally dry, and the caterpillar then spreads over them some very slen-
der, white silky threads. In this manner it makes a lodgement in
the flower or on the fruit just formed, and blights the crop. It comes
out from its cell at sunset, or sooner if the day is dusky, especially
when it is rainy, but it does not journey far. in one month the larva
assumes the chrysalis state and its white cones are mingled confu-
sedly with the remnants of the withered flowers and husks of the
berries. In a fortnight the phalena makes its appearance; grey
wings, striped with black; the body yellow and velvetty ; and the
antenne slightly pectinate.

This night-butterfly places its eggs in the woody fibres of the stalks

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30

from which, early in the spring, the caterpillar comes out. In hot
Seasons it does not do much damage ; but in rainy ones it ereates
severe losses.

Roberjot, who was assassinated at the congress of Rastadt, cleared
the Maconnais of the Pyralis which infested the rich vineyards. by
burning for an hour at night-fall, on the heights in the vicinity of the
vineyards, fires of straw, litter, small faggots &c. The phalena are
attracted from a great distance; and thus with a few cents of ex-
pense millions of these hurtful creatures are consumed. These fires
attract not only these, but all other night-flying insects, the larva
of which is hurtful to fruit and forest trees. These fires must be so
stationed as to cause an eddy of the smoke and flame. From the
first of July to the fifteenth of August, according to the locality, is
the proper time for this to be done; and when once begun they must
be continued for ten days together until the weather is suddenly cold,
or rainy, or windy, at which time the insects cannot be tempted to fly-

12. The Tinea or Miner Worm.

Is rife in southern vineyards; the larva is very small; and har-
bours and feeds between the upper and lower skin of the leaf, where
it eats out long galleries. When the time of metamorphosis ap-
proaches, it cuts two very thin pieces of epidermis, oval and per-
fectly alike ; it glues them by the edges with its silk, leaving one end
open; and as its body is only composed of close rings, it has recourse
to skill to move itself, even over smooth surfaces, to a place of secu-
rity. It comes out of its cocoon, and fastens down a little heap of
silk; to this it attaches a thread by which it draws up its house and
itself; this process it repeats until it has reached its destination;
aud its place of retreat is discovered by the clue of silk which it
has left on its track. ;

The Miner worm is less destructive than the moth-caterpillar ;
it is eaten besides by a red ichneumon spotted with yellow, which
pierces the body of the caterpillar and buries its eggs in it, whick
when hatched. nourish themselves on the juices of the Tines.

13. The Sphinz.

The larve of the Sphinz cipenor, S. celeno, S. porcellus, devour
the leaves of the Vine; but they never appear in great numbers and
their injuries are not much felt. The caterpillar of the S. celena.

91

is brownish, with eyes on the sides of its neck, and two white lines
down the sides. In July and August it feeds, and in a month curls
some leaves, glues them ina spire and becomesa brown chrysalis
darker at one end than another.

14, The Tinea of the Cluster.

This larva is naked, red, with sixteen feet and is called by the
vine-dressers’ Vine-worm. It feeds in the inside of the berry. In Oc-
tober it eats the grape-stene ;—the berries thus injured detoriate the
wine, as they are entirely deprived of the saccharine principle ; this
requires the greater attention on the part of the vintner to clear out
such injuredgrapes, as it is difficult, if not impossible, to destroy
the insect.

BOOK THIRD.
- i p——-.

THE ART OF MAKING WINE.

CHAPTER I.

OF THE VINTAGE.

The art of making wine comprises a long series of operations of
different degrees of delicacy, but all of equal importance, in consum-
mating the article to a degree of excellence and durability fit for the
purposes of commerce. Two faults in the fixing of the time for the
vintage may be noticed; the one when from a fear of the grapes being
robbed, they are gathered before they are full ripe; the other when
they are left to hang too long, which makes the wine weak, hard to
clear, and very apt to be full of phlegm.

The mark of the proper term of ripeness, is when the pellicle is
thin, transparent, and does not yield short to the teeth; when the co-
jour is at the deepest; the white becoming grey, the reddish purple
deep black ; when the stem of the bunch is dry and woody, and the
colour brown like the bark ; when the cluster depends, hanging down-
wards visibly, for the maturity increases the weight; when, which
is an unfailing sign, the berry comes off with a touch, leaving on the
stem a transparent blob of the pulp, of a winy colour.

This term is generally waited for in all the south of France; but
in the more northerly parts, where the early frosts of September and
October are much to be feared, they gather earlier. Dead ripe black
grapes may, in extreme cases, be left to the attacks of slight frosts;
but if unripe, a frost does them great injury: there will be a loss of
one fifth in the quantity of the wine : and it will be weak. pale, and apt
to sour and turn ropy.

Ss

The vintage should take place of a fair day, and when the sun has
dried the dew. It must be done with the greatest aotivity and des-
patch, because dry sunny weather at that period of the year is variable.
If rain comes on, the vintage must be put back; the delay of a day
or two is better than to manufacture, from wetted grapes, a wine
that will not keep. Grapes gathered during a hot and dry time, or
at a middling temperature, ferment the quickest and strongest.

To gather the fruit, some use a pruning hook, or knife, others their
hands, and the greater number, slender shears. The pruning hook is
wholly unfit; the instrument is clumsy, and in cutting the stem of the
bunch, the plant necessarily suffers a shock which makes the ripest
berries fall, and also dried leaves, which soak up the juice, diminish
the quantity of the must and communicate an acrid savour to it. The
pruning knife gives the plant a still stronger shake. The abuse is
even greater where the vintagers are allowed to use their fingers; the
stem rarely breaks at the first pull; and when repeated, the jerk it
communicates to the branch, rains down berries and leaves over the
whole ground. The only advantageous way is to use a very long,
slender pair of shears, which divide the stem with care and occasion
no loss.

The vintager’s basket should be small, and he should lay the bunch
in it as lightly as possible, for fear of bruising the grapes. In large
baskets, the fruit is heaped and crushed, and the richest part of the
juice runs to waste. A deep basket, holding two pecks, narrow at
bottom, and gradually spreading broader to the brim, is the proper
kind. This shape allows the weight of the fruit, instead of resting
on the bottom entirely, to fall more on the sides of the basket, which
prevents the crushing of the lowermost bunches. The vintager, as he
cuts, should pick out and throw away the dry, rotten, or green ber-
ries. The dried berries soak up the must and give out an acid taste ;
rotten grapes ruin the wine ; the green ones give a harsh rough taste,
and make the wine likely to sour. If such grapes are not picked out,
there will result, among the other evils they occasion, an unequal fer-
mentation of the saccharine and aqueous matters anda striking detoria-
tion in the quality, which cannot be masked. The fruit is transported
to the wine vats in waggons, or on the shoulders of men, or in pan-
niers slung across horses. The gatherings of each vintager are re-
moved into larger willow baskets, or into barrows expressly for this
use. ;,

The custom of using willow panniers is none the better for being
the most ancient known; owing to their elasticity the slightest move
ment causes the fruit to sagg and the skins to break. consequently the

9A

juice is constantly leaking. The waggon jolts too violently to be a
proper means of carriage ; wooden barrows transported by men, or by
horses or asses, carry the grapes to the vat, without loss, or bruising
or overheating. The grapes de la Marne (for Champagne wine) are
deposited in broad baskets slung across horses ; the baskets are care-
fully covered with large cloths to keep off the heat of the sun and
prevent an untimely effervescence.

A careful vine-dresser therefore will have the vintage only undertaken
in fine weather; he will allow no awkward vintager to endamage his
crop ; he will hire labourers enough to finish the work in one day ; he
will superintend the work himself, with the assistance of a strict and
able overseer; he will have the stems of the bunches cut as close to
the cluster as possible; he will require his vintagers to pick out and
throw away the rotten berries, and to leave on the plant the unripe
bunches; he will supply them with small baskets only; and will see
that the clusters are removed into the panniers gently and with due
care, and transported to the press by horses or carried by hand.

CHAPTER II.

OP STEMMING THE GRAPES.

Vine-dressers are still divided on the question whether it is better
to remove or to leave the stems of the bunch in the press. Rozier
recommends stemming ; and owing to him it is universally practised
in the neighbourhood of Lyons, and particularly in the famous vine-
grounds of Ampuis and St. Cyr. Near Bordeaux they carefully stem
all the red grapes from which they wish to make a better wine than
common ; and it is generally done, also, wherever pure, superior wines
are wanted.

The authority of the celebrated Rozier, and of the vine-grounds
mentioned seems beyond questioning ; and yet the stemming of grapes
has had to be given up in the Orleannois and all those districts which
do not raise sweet grapes. Experience goes before science, says
Bernard de Palissy; the facts are such, and science has resolved the
problem.

We now therefore know that stemming is proper in the South.

where the wine is rich and generous; while in the North, where the
wine is weak or insipid, in seasons that the grape is very ripe and
juicy, it is better not to stem, or if it is done it is better to spare the
stems of at least part of a the crop.
-_ The stem contains an acerb astringent principle which renders the
wine rough during the two first years, but contributes to its preser-
vation. This principle corrects the weakness of the must, and facili-
tates the fermentation according to the temperature of the year. It
then becomes an agreeable quality, and by increasing and heightening
the flavour of the wine, adds to its value.

There are several ways of stemming; the readiest and easiest is
that practised in the district ot Besancon. A large vat is constructed,
ten or twelve feet in circumference, or 3: in diameter by 2: feet in
height. On the inside, about ten inches below the rim of the staves,
there are three brackets to support a false bottom; this is made of
three or four pieces of plank [fastened together by two cross-pieces
nailed athwart,] shaped round, to fit close in the vat. It is pierced
with holes large enough for two or three grapes to pass at once ; and

96

the holes so close that it is a perfect riddle. The false bottom can be
raised or put down by the hand, if made properly and not too tight.
The stemmer throws in upon it several clusters, and shakes and rubs
them in all directions until the stems are left bare. He puts in but
a few clusters at a time, that the grapes may escape the more easily.
A handy workman will clean by this means from 1000 to 2000 gallons
in a day.

In some places they make use of an instrument like a hay-fork,
which the workman shakes and moves circularly in the vat among
the grapes. By doing it very rapidly, he removes the fruit from the
stem and collects the stems at the surface, from which he removes
them with his hand. Some also stem with a common willow sieve,
the bands of which are from 3 to 3+ inches apart, and the brim plaited
uncommonly thick and strong.

White grapes ought not to be stemmed ; it is observed that wine
from such is less alcoholic and more apt to become turbid.

Ky

CHAPTER Ii.

OF THE WINE PRE3S.

‘The Grecians, before putting the fruit into the wine-press, used to
spread it ona frame and expose it to the sun for ten days; it was
then kept five days in an airy, but shady place, to ripen it and make it
sweeter, say their writers. The operation is in practice to this day m
several isles of the Archipelago, and also in Spain, especially near St.
Lucar; in parts of Italy, for instance Calabria, and in some of our
North-eastern departments.

The crushing of the grape assists fermentation. It is generally
attended to as the vintage arrives from the vineyard. What is mostiy
used for this purpose are square boxes open at top and pierced at bot-
tom with holes, into which a workman gets, who is shod for the pur-
pose with large wooden clogs or stout shoes. He treads and stamps
as fast as he is able. The expressed juice runs into the vat below ;
and when all the berries are mashed, he either throws the murk into
the vat, or on one side, according as the murk is to be fermented with
the must or not ; and then recommences his tramping.

In other places they press the grapes in troughs, mieh is more
suitable ; or they wait for the vat to be sufficiently full and then send
into it two or three men, naked, who tread the grapes with their feet,
aud squeeze with their hands those that swim. These methods are
dangerous for those who tread, and are also imperfect, as much of
the fruit remains entire ; the fermentation must be carried to the point
of bursting these berries, which delays the general fermentation and
is contrary to the principle that it should proceed uniformly.

To remedy these inconveniencies, Parmentier recommends the
mode in use in the Vine-grounds of Champagne ;—to select the bunch-
es that are entirely ripe; to transport them carefully to the press,
and arrange them without bruising on the press, and then to lower the
screw. But this method is tardy, and when the grape has a hard
skin, opposes too great a resistance. De Bournissac and Gay of
Montpellier (see Bulletin de Pharmacie, tom. IV. p. 411 and 558)
have invented a press that 1s much too expensive; a cabinet maker
of Castres, one Guerin, has invented one much simpler, which is

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98

thus spoken of in the Agricultural Transactions of Toulouse. “ This
machine works by two wooden cylinders, [at the bottom of a hopper]
turning in opposite directions by means of two toothed wheels. An
experience of five years has tested the machine and shown its econ-
omy and perfection.” It costs from 70 to 84 francs. I may as well
also notice one to which I myself gave the finishing hand. The first
idea belongs to J. J. S. Acher de Chartres; its merit is its cheap
construction, and its affording every advantage required. It is about
the height of a man; and censists of a wooden frame, from which
is suspended a hopper, into which the grapes are flung, and one side
of which is continued down, projecting out, with guards on each side,
and forming an open gutter or slide. The hopper is closed at bottom
by a cylinder garnished with large, fiat nail-heads, and provided with
a handle ; a man stands and turns it with ease; the cylinder is 3 feet
long, and one foot thick ; in front of it there is adjusted a comb of iron
nails, which work between the nail-heads on the cylinder and clean
away obstructions. There is not a single berry that escapes, and
the juice, skins and stones flow down the open slide into a tub, whieh
is moved away as fast as filled.

The operation of crushing must be perfect, and every grape in the
vat ought to go through it, to make a complete, finished wine; the
above machine is so simple and easy of construction that any vine-
dresser can provide himself with one, and by the equal and simultan-
eous fermentation of the must, have a chance to rival the wines of
price, for which no pains or expense is spared in the pressing.

CHAPTER IV.

OF THE VINOUS FERMENTATION.

Every farmer of the least care wili have his vats cieaned out with
the greatest attention before the beginning of the vintage. Some
rub them with very ripe Portugal quinces; others, if the vats are
of stone, give them several coats of quick-lime, to destroy the malic
acid in the must. If the vats are of wood, some wash them with
warm water; dry them and pour brandy down the sides ; others rub them
with decoctions of aromatic herbs, with salt and water, with boiling
must, &c. All these methods are good, when cleanness is the result ;
but quick-lime has, I fear, some inconveniencies; the calcareous salts
formed by this application, by mixing with the wine may communicate
a bad taste to it, and properties injurious to health.

The quickest fermentation is the best ; to make sure of it, a vat that is
begun must be filled on the same day; the grapes also are not to be
eatried to the vat until towards ten o’clock, or even noon, so that the
heat of the sun may warm the must. If it is foreseen that the vat
cannot be filled in twelve hours at furthest, the vintage had better
be deposited carefully in puncheons, and the pressing be deferred
until next day. It is unsafe also to have vats of too great a size; be-
cause in cold seasons, they are harder to heat, and more difficult to
fill, and the wine is apt to lose its bouquet inthem. The farmer who
can master these objections does well to prefer the large vat, because
the fermentation is always more active in a large body of must than a
small one.

The presence of sugar and water are not @lone necessary for fer-
mentation ; heat also is required up to 12 degrees of Reaumur at least.
To this effect several gallons of the must are to be heated in kettles,
and poured into the vat. One precaution must be remembered; the
must is to be removed from the fire the instant it has reached the
boiling point, or it will acquire a sweetness that will make the wine
unfit for keeping. If the vintage has taken place during a very warm
spell, or even during a middling temperature, the fruit will contain
heat enough, and no external assistance be required to promote the

1G0

fermentation. If the crop is not as sugary as usual, owing to a cold
summer, a half pound of brown sugar must be allowed for every ten
barrow-fulls of grapes. The must also may be scented with the young
sprouts of peach or almond trees, and some few handfulls of dried
elder-flowers. As soon as ever the vat is filled, the whole mass of
juice must be stirred up briskly, and covered down with a lid or cover,
or boards, laid over it.

Ina few hours the fermentation is in full train; but sometimes
it is delayed for several days for want of the contact of the external
air. When fermentation begins, the substances become troubled, dis-
placed, and effervescent, as if about to separate. The heat rises to
20° of Reaumur ; the liquid swells to a greater volume; then, much
carbonic acid gas is evolved, and the wine ismade. ‘That gas once
Ict loose, the stir is appeased, the liquid falls, grows cold, the foreign
substances precipitate, and the wine becomes a limpid fiuid.

All enlightened practice proves that air is a vehicle necessary and
favorable to fermentation; and that if preserved from the contact of
the air the must can be long kept from change or alteration. But the
experiments of some chemists prove that although the must in tight
vessels goes very slowly through the process of change, it never-
theless does become wine, and that of a very rich kind. From which
arises two doctrines concerning the making of wine, one that it should
ferment quick, the other that it should ferment slow ; the one decla-
ring that atmospheric air aids the process and assists in carrying off
the gaseous matters which must disengage themselves from the liquor,
to perfect it into wine; the other insisting that wine fermented be-
yond the contact of the air is richer, with more bouquet and more
alcohol, which the carbonic acid gas carries away where the fermenta-
tion is open. The difference of these two parties is mostly in words ;
and the gordian knot is easily unloosed. To make good wine there
is one ferment with agitation required, which, to be complete must go
on quickly ; and needs the contact of the air to evolve it thoroughly.
The term of this ferment is the sinking of the scum or head. Then
comes on the second fegment, which is slow and progressive. This is
the time to close the vats so close as only to leave issues for the
carbonic acid gas to escape.

Modes of making wine differ according to the quality or species of
the grape, the nature of the soil of the vineyard, the temperature the
latter enjoys, and even we may say, according to the notions of the
vintner. In some districts the wine only remains in the vats from
36 to 40 hours; in the neighbourhood of Lyons, it is left from 6 to
S days at most: in many places the termis usually from 12 to 20 days:

101

ia the Southeast departments it remains 29, 30 and 40 days; at Narbonne
it issometimes left 70 days. Ifyou ask why, when the fermentation is
over, and the wine is made, it is thus left upon the lees to clarify in
the vat, the answer is, it is the custom; if you say that there will be
great loss, that the head will grow dry and sour, the answer is still
the same.
When the fermentation has gone through the necessary degrees,
and the suspended residuum has been expelled to the surface of the
fluid, forming the chaplet or head, as it is called; if there is heat
enough in the vat to harden the upper part of the head, and procure
a certain siccity which makes it like a crust or solid substance, and
if some oily or resinous particles float upwards and make the head
compact and closely adhering to the sides of the vat, there is no rea-
son why the wine may not be left untouched. So long then as the
wine is covered from the air, and there are no openings to favour the
evaporation of the alcchol, the thick head serves as well as any lid to
protect the fluid beneath. And if the head isso firm as to remain
in its place notwithstanding the falling of the wine from the slow
fermentation, the wine beneath will be better than any of the same
crop that has been exposed to immediate racking off. However, no
wine can remain without injury 30, 40, or 70 days in the vat, without
being a bad wine, and the vat too warm. IJ say a bad wine, because
it must be wanting in the saccharine phlegm that holds in solution,
or serves to incorporate, the aqueous part with the oily and resinous
ones. When this tract or mucilage is plentiful, it will absorb and
keep back those oily and resinous particles which must rise and cling
to the scum to preserve the latter from mould, and make it fit to pre-
tect the liquor from the air. If the warmth of the vat is great, it
attenuates these oily particles and the head becomes poreus or filmy,
unfit to shelter the wine, and acetous f-rmentation begins. On the
other hand, when the phlegm and spirit are in an uncommon propor-
tion, they make the insensible perspiration so brisk and tumultuous,
that the heat evolved draws from the head a carbonic gas with which
the wine becomes charged, and is in consequence, harsh, hard and
heady, as dangerous for use as it is unpleasant to the palate.
But wine in France is mostly fermented exposed tothe air. The
my custom is rendered respectable by experience, and by the wisest culti-
‘vators and farmers who reason on all their customs and all the tradi-
ions that guide them. I have therefore no great idea of the new
method known by the name of the Elizabeth Gervais’ Patent, and

102

which seems to have been borrowed from my late friend Fabironc* or
Don Casbois of Metz, who constructed in 1782 an hydraulic valve, of
the same characters as the wine-making apparatus of Gervais; or
from Goyon de la Plombanie, who in 1757 described an analogous pro-
cess; or from the Neapolitan Porta, or the German Chemist Becker
who lived in the beginning of the seventeenth century. The new
invention is intended to prevent the escape of the spirituous and bal-
samic portions; but the more rapid and agitated is the fermentation,
the less is the chance for the alcohol and aroma to be carried off, owing
to the vehement disengagement of the carbonic gas which keeps them
down. The more quiet and slowly this disengagement operates, the
more completely this gas saturates itself with the alcohol and fra-
grance. It is intended also to keep the scum and film from growing
sour, or putrescent, which they never do, when the vintner knows his
business and takes proper care. It has, moreover, been proved by
public experiments, Ist, that the old method is the only one that
preserves the peculiar aroma and inherent qualities of the species ;
2nd, that the Gervais Patent does not increase the product by a thou-
sandth part,; 3rd, that the liquor which rises and is condensed in
the retort-cover, is three parts water, and the rest a brandy, fetid with
the odour of tin; 4th, that there is much to be gained by covering
the vat closely, with the precaution, however, of leaving the sufficient
openings for the carbonic gas to go off readily ; 5Sthly, that tart, weak
wines, treated by the patent, do not become rich or even agreeable ;
they only gain a higher colour.

As for the vinification, the vimtage in loosely covered vessels, un-
dergoes a thorough transformation into wine and spirit : both the must
and the lees; while in the close or slow fermentation, the assimilation
is irregularly completed in the racking casks, and the lees, on distil-
lation, afford two or three degrees less of alcohol.

The Gervais-Patent, also, gives to delicate, rosy wines a deeper
colour, which, iv commerce, may injure their sale, the characters
and appearances of such wines being established ; but it does not make
them purer or more fragrant. Whether the wines prepared by it will
keep as well, either, remains to be seen; they are, as yet, too green
for an opinion to be given.

We would not have taken such pains to show the errors of this
system, save from a rooted antipathy of such attempts to profit by
the restrictive conditions of a process, first patented and then falsely
cried up. Recommendations given with mercantile complaisance and

* Dell’ arte dz fare il vino, in vo. page 169 of the Florence editions
of 1785, 89, and 1790. and p. 21, of the French translation of 1301.

i103

facility, or extorted by importunity, have been paraded for the purpose
of enriching the inventor, which, in an age when science throws open
the gates of benefit to all, is a poor effort at monopoly, and falls with
expense and disappointment on the laborious and diligent manipulator
of the products of the Vine. Finally it may be said that it is profit-
able in the South to cover the vats partially, because otherwise the
wine would be likely to sour; but in the North the vats must be ex-
posed during the violent fermentation, and closed up as soon as it is
over. The wine, it is true, is not as rich, but experience proves that
this is the only proper mode to prevent its being soured.

CHAPTER V. Bags dh

OF THE WINE VESSELS, VATS &c-

‘The casks, like the vats, should be made ready before the vintage.
if they are new, the wood employed in their construction will have
an astringency and bitterness that may be imparted to the wine ;
this serious evil is prevented by soaking them well with cold water,
then with hot water in which peach leaves have been infused, and
finally with salt and water. Each time the cask must be well rolled
and shaken, and the different waters left in 1t long enough to penetrate
the substance of the wood and draw out the hurtful principle. After
the salt and water is emptied out, two pints or a gallon of fermenting
must, brought to boiling heat, must be thrown in, and the cask bunged
and shaken; after which the must is allowed torun out. But some
vine-dressers, in place of the above operations, only rinse well with
hot wine.

If the casks are old, and have been used, the head is taken out,
and the gravel, or coat of tartar that skirts the inner side, is scraped
off with a sharp instrument; after which the whole is thoroughly
rinsed with warm water, or hot must, or hot wine. If easks have
contracted any bad taste ; if they have been touched with mould, they
must be burnt; nothing can ever be done to conceal or repair these
faults, save transiently ; they soon re-appear and spoil the wine. To
prevent such accidents, the casks, as soon as empty, must be well
drained and turned over on the side, and an inch square of brimstone
match burned in at the bung-hole ; then bunged as tight as possible
and stowed away in a dry place. Before using a cask it should be
ascertained that it has not soured, which can be found out by introdu-
cing a burning match, or a piece of lighted paper; if they go out,
it requires purifying. It should be turned down, the bung open, over
running water, or the sandy floor of the cellar, for four and twenty
hours, then rinsed and sulphured by burning a match in it. The
heops should be examined, to see that none are started or in bad
order; water should be poured in to find whether the staves are tight.
If they are loose, water must be put in, and the eask allowed to
stand awhile on one side, then turned to the other. until there is no
leaking ; it must then be drained.

105

Casks are mostly made of oak ; some districts prefer them of beech
wood, because, say they, the wine ripens better in such, and takes a
pleasant taste. They vary greatly in size, but more generally are 4
feet 3 inches long ; of cylindrical form, slightly bulging at the middle,
like an egg with the two ends squared off. The invention of them is
attributed to‘the people of the Alps,* who varnished them with wax
inside, and outside with pitch or rosin. There are inconveniencies
annexed to them, such as the qualities of the wood which are soluble
in the wine ; the shrinking or swelling of the staves according to the
state of the weather, and thus giving access to the external air and
allowing internal gases to escape from the liquor. They go in differ-
ent places by the several names of puncheons, casks, pipes, butts,
barrels; when larger, they are termed hogsheads, and when of enor-
mous size they are called tuns. The latter are excellent for hastening
the ripening of wine ; a large quantity of wine together, sooner_takes
the characters of age than small portions, kept separately.

It has been frequently recommended, in place of casks to use pot-
ter’s vessels, glazed the like high-glazed pottery ofthe ancients. Such
vessels, have undoubtedly, the advantage of preserving a more equal
temperature ; but they are all more or less porous, and, in the long
run, may change the wine. We might, like the Romans, remedy this
porosity by coating them with wax inside and pitch outwards, or
else with a cement of lime ; &c. but wax will sour the wine, and lime,
as I have already elsewhere stated, may add to it disagreeable proper-
ties. But worse than this,—these vessels are awkward to be moved,
and very brittle, not permitting the multiplied handlings that casks
receive without injury.

* Pliny. Hist. Nat. lib. XLV. cap. 21.

14

CHAPTER VI.

OF THE DURATION OF THE FERMENTATIVE PROCESS.

As yet there is no other rule than custom to determine the moment
for drawing off from the vat. The rule with some, is when the wine
drawn off has no bubbles in it, nor froth upon it; with others, they
work a stick around in the liquid and see whether it wheels, as it is
called, or makes a circle of foam; others judge by the deep colour:
others by the coldness of the vat ; others again by the mild and sweet
taste.

As a principle, Ist if the vat is very large and warm the must should
remain in it but a short time; 2d if the saccharine matter abounds, and
the must is thick, and the temperature low, the fermentation will be
longer. 3d A defective fermentation in the vat, may, in a manner, be
remedied, in the casks, by closing them sooner; 4th, but there are no
means of curing a wine that has overpast the due limit and become
tart, or musty, or spoiled with carbonic acid, so as to restore it to its
prover qualities.

The wines of St. Basle, Verzy, Versenay, and Mailly (de la Marne)
known for their fine colour, great delicacy, high raciness and fra-
grance, remain only 6 hours in the vat. The most superior wines of
the departments of Saone and Loire, Cote-d’or and I’Yonne, and
especially those from the Vine-grounds of Pouilly, Meursault, Ton-
nerre, and Chablis, cannot stand the vat longer than from 6 to 10
hours. The wine from Volney, which is the lightest, most delicate
and agreeable of all the wines of the hills of Beaune, or even of all
France, is left in the vat no more than 6 hours. But there are some
wines not yet perfect after nine days of fermentation.

The length of time required for the vat is sometimes only important
on account of the colour; as in the case of Pomard wine for instance.
But if the pressing crushed the whole of the grapes sufficiently, so

107

that the colouring matter would mingle with the must without our
having to depend on the brisk or,violent fermentation to extract it,
it might, I think, be found, that the stem and the stone are both
better cleared away than left in the vat, notwithstanding their appa-
rent advantage in some cases. This idea is merely hazarded to elicit
experiments by well-informed vine-dressers. Meanwhile let us look
to the matter in hand.

The proper time for drawing off is when the transformation to wine
is complete ; but, the sinking back of the chaplet, or sheet of scum,
though it shows that the strongest fermentation is over, yet, as there
are several degrees of change to be undergone by the liquid beneath,
before it falls as low as it should go, it remains to be seen how low it
must have sunk to afford a sure indication to judge of the completion
of the wine. The motion of the wine, or its limpidity and ealmness
when a glass is drawn off, are by no means signs worth resting on.

Colour and taste would be preferable indications, but taste and smell
are senses so differently enjoyed by different individuals, and of the
infinite shades of colour it isso difficult to render a just idea, that
neither can be looked to. As the heat developed by fermentation
depends on the sugar and spirit in combination, it is idle to refer to
what is so perpetually variable. Indeed, vats will often have reached
their maximum of heat at the end of 21 or sometimes 10 hours, and the
wine not be complete till 206 cr 26 hours after. The therinometer
alone is therefore no infallible guide of vinification.

The essential point is, then, to find a fixed, invariable method, inde-
pendent of circumstances, and at the same time capable of application
by intellects of the meanest grades, so that not the dullest workman
need fail to comprehend it. My late friend Belfroy de Beauvoir had
turned his attention to this subject, and from him { have received
the following account of his observations.

‘<7 have long busied myself about the regulation of the drawing off.
I have thought, that if it could be rated by some simple, economical,
mechanical process, the art. of making wine would be quite a household
affair, no matter what the climate, soil, or quality of the grape, or ail
the other accessaries which often make the usual indications swerve
from their exactness. ;

“‘ My idea was to find a measurement of the degrees of fermentation
from the first sensible movement until the complete vinification, that
is to say, a scale affected by the first sensible repulsion of solids from
the fluid, which shows that the ferment is begun, until the equally
sensible retrogression or reaction, showing its decrease has taken
place ; for it seemed to me that there must be a fixed relative propor-

108

tion between the expansion of the fermenting must, and its subsidence ;
and I thought I could deduce from what I saw, that the drawing off
should be practised as soon as the film or scum had settled down-
wards. I therefore marked degrees ona yard-stick, placed upright
in the middle of the vat, and I watched the ascension and fall; the
wine was perfect at the time proposed. But in dry and hot years,
when the grape is very ripe and contains more fire than sugar, if the
wine is left until the scum has sunk, it is hard, heady, rough and
fiery. In rainy years, when the grape is full of water, the wine, at
that degree, is not perfect ; in seasons that are dry without being too
hot, seasons generally remarkable for the abundance of sugar in the
fruit, the moment the retrogression of the head i is accomplished, is the
exact time for drawing off the wine.

“* With the help of these facts, and knowing that the same princi-
ples, mere chemical combinations, were at work to effect the sinking,
that accomplished the expulsion and ascent of the chaplet or head, I
deemed that the time, be it greater or less, required in the ascent and
in the fall were proportioned to each other, and by that, some lights
might be given. I therefore tried it, whether, allowing as long an
interval from the stagnation of the head, to the drawing off, as had
occurred between the crushing ofthe fruit and the first degree ofsensible
ascension, would allow time for the wine to be completed, in cases
where it was not finished at the settling of the head. The first year
I was completely suceessful The next the season had been very
different ; and I was somewhat behind-hand in the wine; the next
season, the wine was a little overdone. As my regulator was not
more than an inch thick, and simply thrust into the vat without being
firmly fixed, I attributed these different results to some displacing, or
my own careless inaccuracy. The next season, I took a piece of
poplar plank, 5 inches broad, two thirds of an inch thick, and nearly
as long as would reach across the vat. Through the middle of it I
passed the yard-stick, fastened down; and the plank, being perfectly
flat and extremely light, would work up and down with perfect facility
following the swell or decline of the scum. This method was more
exact, and I have found it of use for three years past. I intendto
perfect it much more; by combining the strength of the fluid and the
heat of the vat with my other calculations, and making the matter so
clear, that the most unlettered farmer, may seize with half'an eye, the
proper minute for drawing off, no matter what the previous or attend-
ant circumstanees”—Such was his statement; but exile and death
have prevented him from keeping his word.

To draw off, the tap of the vat is turned and the liquor removed to

1093

the cask in measures made for the purpose. But the first thing to
be done is to remove the scum which has soured by exposure to the
air, with the utmost precaution, by means of a wooden spaddle. For
should this film turn under, the whole vat of wine will be good for
nothing. Wines of peculiar excellence are drawn off by funnels and
syphons that prevent the open air from striking the wine, as it does
in the common method, both when it falls into the measure, and again
when itis emptied into the cask. *

CHAPTER VIL.

OF THE WINE PRESS.

As soon as the wine is drawn off, the murk, or pumice, is to be lifted
out and subjected to the press ; it affords a wine nearly equal to that
which has flowed freely from the vat. It is distinguished into first,
second, and third qualities, according to the first, second, and third
cutting of the murk. The wine produced by the first cut is the most
lively, that from the third, the tartest, hardest, coarsest, and deepest
in colour. The residue is kept near Montpellier for the fabrication
of verdegris; in other places it is packed down, well sprinkled with
bran, and dealt out as fodder for cattle; or is used as a manure for
vineyards, or food for pigeons, who eat it with a sort of gluttony ;
others apply water to it, and draw from it beverages slightly vinous and
tart, that ‘go by the name of pricked wines.

Some make a practice of mingling the vat and press-wines together
as soon as made, which is wrong; it is better to keep them apart
until it is seen whether it be necessary to add the press-wine to the
other to heighten its strength or colour. Otherwise there is a risk
of entirely depriving the wine from the vat of all its perfume and
delicacy ; and also to render it hard, dull, thick, and indigestible ;
press-wines alway being tart, harsh, and dark coloured.

When the murk is to be used for vinegar, only one turn is given
to the press.

There are many sorts of presses ; of the two most in use, one requires
from ten to twelve men, breaks often and is slow; the other, every
way less costly, requires but four men and has a greater effect than
the former. But both of them cut the murk at each turn, which
gives the harsh taste of the stem to the wine. A third press, called
the single or double box-press (le pressovr a coffre simple ou double ;)
is the best yet invented; the wine that proceeds from the highest
pressure is separated from that which flows first, because of inferior
quality; but there is no cutting of the murk. The press is filled
seven feet thick with the pumice, which it reduces to 18 inches,
yielding one fifteenth more wine than is obtained by any other sort
of press.

CHAPTER VIL.
OF THE WINE-CELLAR.

The cellar is all-important for the preservation of the wine. The
best cellars are such as are dug out under uninhabited dwellings, as
is seen in the districts most famous for wines ; exposed to the North,
and 50 or 60 French feet deep, according to the dryness or dampness of
the soil. A certain constant, but not excessive humidity is necessary ;
if too moist, the casks rot and are apt to make the wine musty; if
too dry, the staves shrink and the wine leaks out. The light should
enter moderately, by openings at suitable distances; these windows
should be protected by narrow pent-houses and closed when it is too
hot or too cold. The ceiling of the cellar should be solidly vaulted
and very thick, to prevent the shocks and pressures which it receives
from being communicated to the casks below. In summer, as in
winter, it is well to cover the floor above with dry rushes, straw, or
any such material to prevent either violent heat or cold from extend-
ing to the cellar. The floor of the cellar should be very smooth and
beaten hard; that part of it intended for the bottled wine should be
sanded. The cellar should be kept clean ; if too damp it should have
more and larger windows ; if too dry, fewer windows and those made
smaller. When badly situated it is easy to shelter it from the rays of
the sun by building small buttresses in front of the windows, or by
stopping them with a board covered with earth, or sods, which is
better.

The casks should be set perfectly horizontal on a stilling 6 or seven
inches high, made of squared joists; and be supported with wedge-
shaped pieces 4 inches long and 3 inches thick, which must be driven
between the staving and joists quietly and with great care. Neither
stilling nor casks should touch the wall in any place; thus fixed they
are firm, and safe from rotting. If the casks lean forward, the lees are
carried to the front and stop up the tap; if they incline backwards
the evil is worse ; when the cask must be lifted up to let the liquor
run off, the whole becomes troubled. If perfectly horizontal the lees
‘settle in the lowermost part of the side and every drop of the limpid
wine runs off clear.

Garden stuff, green wood, flowers, fruit, &c. must never enter a
wine-cellar. Sooner or later they are sure to sour the wine, by the
exhalations that arise from them, |

CHAPTER IX.

OF THE MANAGEMENT OF THE WINE IN CASKS.

5

The wine works in the casks from the first day that it is transferred
tothem. If the ferment in the vat was regular and continued, the
new commotion will be almost insensible, and vice versa. It is the
carbonic acid gas which excites this agitation; it tends incessantly
to escape, it swells the size of the liquid and makes it froth out at
the bung. The casks, therefore, should not be entirely filled; a
space of two inches should be left and the bung be driven in close
enough to prevent the air from penetrating ; the spigot-hole beside
the bung should now and then be opened to allow the gas to eseape ;
but this must not be done too often nor too freely, as it risks souring
the wine. Instead of bunging tight, and opening the spigot-hole some
vine-dressers cover the bung-hole with folds of cloth covered with a
coat of sand; others with Vine leaves held down by a piece of tile.
When this ferment is over, and the liquid sinks back, the casks shonld
be filled up and bunged tight ; the bung wrapped with hemp or tow,
or old linen, which must be fresh and clean, as a film gathers on the
bung that may be hurtful to the wine.

In some districts they fill up every day during the first month, every
four days the second month, and after that every eight days until
the racking off. This is the method used with the Hermitage wines,
around Bordeaux ; they fill up after the first week ; a month after they
bung the casks lightly, and fill up every week, gradually tightening
the bung. In other places they fill up regularly every ten days during
the first months, then once a month until the racking off. And in some
they do it every two months, if the cellars are passably dry, and every
three months if they are damp. The filling-up should be done in coe!
dry weather, and the wine employed never be of a quality inferior to
that in the cask. The cellar should be visited at least once a day, so
as to remedy on the spot any accident that may have taken place,
through wormeaten spots in the staves, by the shaking of the casks in

113

rolling them into the cellar; by mould on the hoops or heading trom
the damp; or from the shrinking of the staves. The wine also should
be tasted from time to time, to observe what alterations have ocvur-
ed, thatithey may be remedied promptly.

When the filling-up is neglected, a white mould collects on the
surface of the wine. This must be attended to immediately, as the
acid fermentation commences by this symptom. The air in the space
must be first forced out; to this effeet the nozle of a bellows is
introduced at the bung and the air drawn in from everyside. A
lighted match is then put in, the bung closed, and the match allew-
ed to burn; after this the cask must be entirely filled up, and then,
several smart raps on it expel the bubbles of air that are lodged in
erevices and drive the mould towards the bung-hole ; in a few minutes
a slight jolt must be given to the cask with the knees, which will make
the wine at the bung run over a little, when, by blowing upon it, the
film is carried down ; the filling-up must be repeated, and this pro-
cess tried again, until not a vestige of the mould is perceived.

The wine also works in a singular manner when the Vine begins
to shoot, at the time of flowering, and when the grape turns. Buffon
attributes all this working and all the changes cf the juice of the
grape from the state of must to that of vinegar, to the action of organic
molecules. According to Fabbron: and the remarks in confirmation of
his by Astier of Toulouse, these phenomena of vegeto-animal matter
are only remarked when the organic molecules have not been separa-
ted from the wine by a sufficient quantity of alcohol. “ Then,” says
Astier, “(as these elements of organization cannot remaio idle while
the Vine is busy with growth, and as, in the vat or cask they cannot
produce leaves, flowers, and fruit, they will produce something anima-
ted, vintage gnats, wine-mould, or the microscopic eels of vinegar.
These phenomena” he adds, “ prove that life, though unapparent in
the whole, subists in the parts, though detached and separated, and
preserves in spite of death, a certain relation with the general life
of the species to which the individual belongs.”

These phenomena may be prevented by the use of anti-fermentative
substances, such as sulphuric acid, sulphate of lime, mercurial oxyds,
alcohol, garlic, camphor, the cold of ice, boiling heat. The manner
of using all these various means shall be spoken of hereafter.

- When the fluid seems at rest, though turbid, it is complete. The
turbidness is caused by the foreign substances in suspension, which,
with time and quiet, sink to the bottom; when the pulp and murk,
colouring matter and tartar, form the lees. The tartar separates par-

tjally antd crystallizes on the sides of the casks.
a =
29

CHAPTER X.

OF RACKING.

But the lees, once precipitated, may mingle anew, and muddy the
clarified wine ; or even produce a new fermentation and injure the
quality. For this reason the wine must be removed from the lees.
Some rack the wine in December, if it is well cleared, and they
wish to transport it; others do it only once a year in February or
March. In some places the wine requires to be racked twice during
the first year, once at the beginning of spring and a second time at
the end of September, or towards the end of December during sharp,
clear frost, and about the middle of May. Wines that are mild
should be racked soonest, with harsh, hard wines it should be de-
layed longer. Rich high-flavoured wines may lie on the lees three
and four years, and only be shifted every two years, without injury.
Such are the red wines of the Marne river, and especially from the
St. Thierry enclosure near Rheims. But in general, wines should
be removed from the coarse lees before the spring equinox. There
are, however, cases, in which the lees and wine are better left toge-
ther than separated, for the sake of prolonging the fermentation and
ripening the wine; but it must be done with great watchfulness ;
the moment the wine shows a tendency to pass to the acid degree of
fermentation, it must be racked without delay and transported into
a colder place ; if it is turbid, it should be fined before racking. The
most suitable time for the operation is fine, clear weather, especially
as regards the first racking. It should never be attempted while the
Vine isin blossom ; at that time the wine undergoes an accelerated
internal ferment, and should be kept as quiet as possible.

For racking, the head of the cask must be pierced about three fin-
ger’s breadths from the chine; this is done with a tap-augur large
enough to make the opening at once ; as soon asa drop of the liquor
shows, it has pierced enough ; the gimblet is withdrawn and the cock
put in its place; the faucet must be turned just so far that the wine
will fow through the channel without the air disturbing the surface
of the liquid as it passes. As soon as the cock is fixed, the bung must
be gradually lifted as gently as possible, to give entrance to the exter-

£15

nal air. When it bas done running, the cask is raised by levers, and
care must be taken to be sure that the raising has not made the wine
turbid ; if it is troubled it must not be mixed with the clear wine. This
is the most general way of racking, and the most expeditious. But
it is not a good method for wines that have a delicate bouquet, be-
cause they are so much exposed to the air when running from use
tap, and when pouring into the funnel.

At Beaune (Cote-d’Or) the wines of which have the reputation of
being the most relishing of all the wines of old Burgundy, they rack
with copper taps, to which a leathern pipe is attached terminated by
a wocden tube, that is slightly conical. The cask to be filled is laid
on the side, and pierced on the topmost part with some small gim-
blet-holes ; when it is filled, the holes are stepped and it is rolled over
on the bung.

At Condrieu (Rhone) they rack the wine the week afier it is made,
and before the end of the month, they fine it, to divest it of clammi-
ness; every fortnight or twenty days they rack it over for the space
of a month or two; by this means they give it that perfectly limpid
elearness for which it isso remarkable. Each time it is thus racked,
the cask is sulphured strongly, even more than fer red wines; this
increases the bedy of the wine. This white wine lasts from fifteen
to twenty years; as it grows old it acquires the colour and taste of
Malaga; its repute has been at its present height for several centu-

ies. It is thought that the species of the grape was brought from
Dalmatia; it is known by the name of vionnier. The Hermitage
wine owes its origin te the vineyards of Condrieu. *

If the casks have to be moved three or four months after racking,
it is advisable to rack them anew first, lest the deposit they have
made should rise and eloud the wine, and change the taste.

*It is related that an inhabitant of Condrieu having turned hermit, he built himself
a cel] on an uncultivated sterile mountain, in the neighbourhood of Tain, and employed
his leisure hours in breaking to pieces the recks around his dwelling, Haviog planted
slips from: Condrieu they succeeded perfectly. His example excited emvlation, and
valuable vineyards soon covered the stony sides of the mountain, from which the Her-
-Mitase wines are still raised.

CHAPTER XI.
OF FINING.

Wines, which are not elear after racking, contain a sediment of such
divisibility, that it can only be removed by fining, and a secondracking.

The most usual substanees employed for this purpose, are isinglass
and whites of egys.

Isinglass must be unrolled, shred thin, and soaked in wine. It swells,
softens, arid then becomes a viscous jelly, which must be poured into
the cask. The wine should be well beaten with a whisk, and allowed
torest. The quantity of isinglass used, is about a half ounce to every
250 or 300 gallons of wine.

Whites of eggs are preferred in the South to fish-glue; they are
well beaten with wine, and poured into the cask, which is then stirred
either with a whisk, made of split wood, or made of tufts of horse
hair fixed to an iron handle. The wine is left to rest for ten days or
a fortnight, and then racked in a North wind. From six to ten eggs
are required for every 25 gallons of wine, according to the paleness or
depth of the colour. Some farmers make use of gum arabic in pow-
der; others of hartshorn shavings, calcined ground flints, starch, rice,
milk, beech-wood éhips boiled in water, and sun or oven-dried. But,
none of these substances produce as well or as quickly the results
obtained by fish-glue or whites of eggs.

There is a reddish-brown powder which is sold at a very high price,
for the clarifyiny of wines; but it is nothing more than dried blood.
It only acts through the albumen contained in blood; and a couple
of eggs would have the same efficacy, without altering the bouquet of
the fine wines, by the fetid, glue-like odour of the dissolved dried
blood. The gelatine of bones is still worse than blood. Common
and new wines lose a portion of their rawness by fining; good wines
require more subtilty of relish and appearance.

CHAPTER Xil.

OF THE SULPHURING OR STUMMING OF WINES.

This process is the impregnation of the wine with sulphureous va-
pours,by burning over it sulphur matches. The matches are simple
er compound. The simple are made of a slip of cloth or muslin, 6 or
7,inches long, and 12 inches in breadth, that is soaked in melted sul-
phur. Compound matches are prepared by adding aromatics to the
sulphur, such as pounded cloves, cinnamon, ginger, coriander, or Flo-
rentine orris root ; or nips of thyme, lavender, or marjoram ; or orange-
flowers, &c. Those fabricated at Strasburg and which are rolled in
violet-leaves, are esteemed the most.

The match is lighted, and suspended by an iron wire in at the
bung-hole, which is then closed tight, and the match allowed to burn.
While it is burning, the internal air escapes with a hissing sound from
every fissure ; these should be instantly stopped with any coarse luting
at hand. Stumming discolours the wine and renders it turbid, but
it soon recovers. Wines that have been sulphured keep longer, but
red wines are faded by it, consequently, sometimes diminished in va-
jue. Owing to this, of late years, the following plan has been adopted.
A smail quantity of brandy is poured into the cask, and set on fire
by a burning string, and while it is burning, the hand is he!d over
the bunghole without closing it entirely. This is now the prevailing
custom in all the department of Herault.

In Marseillan, and wherever the Picardan wines are made, a sort
of syrup is prepared from white grapes and called stum, which is
used in preference to sulphuring. It is prepared in the following
manner : as soon as the juice of the grapes flows from the press, it is
stoutly stummed, to prevent its fermenting, and is poured into casks
one fourth filled. Several matches are burned over the liquor, and the
cask bunged and repeatedly shaken, until, when the bung is opened,
no gas escapes by the opening. More must is then poured in and
matches burned again, and the process of shaking repeated ; this is
continued, until at last the cask is filled. Must prepared in this
manner, never ferments; it has a sweetish taste, a strong smell of
sulphur, and if a proportionate quantity of high proof alcohol is added
to it, it makes a very hot cordial wine, called Calabrian wine; and is
employed fo give strength or sweetness to wines that are tart or peor.

CHAPTER XIII.

OF BOTTLING.

So long as the wine remains in the cask, it is slowly making alter-
ations for the better. There are some very superior, generous wines
that will stand the cask for three or four years, such asthose of the
Clos Saint-Thierry, which unite the hue and the bouquet of Burgun-
dy, to the lightness and liveliness of Champagne ; such also are those
of the Clos-Vougeot ; but it is only in well corked bottles that wine
acquires all the finish of its properties. The more spirit, nerve or
raciness, and bedy that a wine has, the better it is for it to be bottled ;
but light, delicate, tender wines do not bear it so well. Bottling will
not bear negligence ; very good crops now and then are so injured
by bad bottling as not to be recognizable. It should be done 13 months
after the vintage ; the selection of bottles and corks, and the prepara-
tion of the pitch or wax to cover the cork should not be entrusted out
of the hands of the master.

Bottles carelessly tempered, or of poor glass, change the wine ;
those that have been used are apt to take a bad taste from the eellar:
especially if they have been stowed away standing, and it is very hard
to clean them; if not thoroughly cleansed they are sure to spoil the
wine. If not of regular sizes and dimensions, it is hard to arrange
them smoothly, and they are very subject to break in the pile. That
the bottles be of equal sizes, and from some manufactory of reputa-
tion, is the first requisite. The second is to rinse them twenty-four ,
hours before they are used, not with duck shot as some recommend.
which is a dangerous practice, but with gravel-stones, or a piece of
steel chain. They must be stood to drain on drilled boards ; and if they
are to be used for any weak wines, a little brandy should be poured
in them first; this rinsing with brandy is not to be practised if they
are to hold fine wines, the bouquet of which would be destroyed by
the brandy.

Every bottle with a flaw, or coat of tartar, or the slightest musty
smell, should be rejected without fail. Bottles for Champagne should
be of very thick glass, well annealed, and from some known glass- -
works, or the wine is risked with a dead certainty of loss.

Quality of the Corks.

‘They should be round, new, and very sound; round, that they may
fill up the neck compactly ; new, to give no ill taste to the wine; and
very sound to prevent breaking as much as possible. They should
be elastic ; a stiff cork will break the neck of the bottle, or else does
not fit well. In France there isa trade carried on in old corks by
houses that consume a great number; they are re-peeled and offered
for sale, but may be known by the dirty brown colour of the pores; the
new cork is always of a reddish brown in the streaks. These fur-
bished corks are only fit for bottles that are to be used immediately
The corks are driven in witha wooden mallet.

Of Securing the Corks.

Unless the corks are waxed, if kept any time, the wood-lice gnaw
them, or they rot from the damp, and the liquor leaks out. The best
wax is made of the following articles and in the following proportions
for 300 bottles :-—2lbs. rosin and lb. of Burgundy pitch, 4b. of yellow
bees wax, and a small sprinkling of red mastic, melted together over
the fire, and taken off as soon as the scum rises, properly stirred and
imcorporated, and put back on the fire to melt for use. Tallow may
be substituted for bees wax, but in smaller quantity ; too much tal-
low and the wax will not harden; too little wax or tallow, or none,
and it will not cleave. The neck of the corked bottle is plunged into
this liquid for about two thirds of an inch, and then turned up to harden.

Of Piling the Bottles.

The bottles must be laid, so that the deposit may fall on one
side of the bottle: and the cork be kept constantly moist. The
ground should be perfectly level and well sanded. The bottles are
ranged side by side, with some scantling under the necks to sup-
port them; a layer of sand an inch or an inch and a quarter deep
must be strewn over the first range of bottles before a second can
be piled upon them; and so on with every range. The piles.are
made a yard high ; they may be laid in the middle of the cellar if with
the precaution adopted in the department of Marne, of interposing a
thin seantling or frame work of lathes, supported at the ends. The
upright bits to which the horizontal pieces are fastened, sustain the
mass and give strength to the pile.

CHAPTER XIV.

OF THE MIXTURE OF WINES.

Do not seek to make artificial wines ; it is a loss of time and money:
you cannot imitate nature, or deceive any connoisseur, and most
often you will have to reproach yourself with having been the origin
of many a dyspepsia, and poisoned old men and invalids. Throw
away your recipes for Spanish and Rhenish wines, artificial wines
are a deception that may induce immedicable injuries in the sys-
tems of their drinkers.

All wines that depend for their credit on their bouquet, should be
preserved pure. But it is the vinedresser’s interest to mingle the
slightly altered or middling wines with those that are more generous ;
it should be a point of honor, however, to acknowledge mixed wines,
and not pass them off for those of a known growth or season.

Sometimes a pure wine has an earthy taste, or a tartness that strikes
the palate ; or its colour is so deep as to be disagreeable ; the addition
of an inferior white wine, well fermented, and rich of the taste of the
fruit, will convert it into an excellent liquor.

Wines of a bad season may be mixed with those of a good year. If
you have white wines disposed to mottle and turn yellow, they may
be mixed with very high-colored red wines ; making them more pleas-
ant to the taste, and apparently older.

In the neighbourhood of Bourdeaux they correct the slight roughness
of their wines by mixing them before they are racked, with Hermitage
wines from the department de la Drome, with those of Cahors, (Lot,)
and those of the best vine-grounds of Gard, Herault &c. A very lively
fermentation begins between them, and terminates in the complete
fusion of both into one, under the name of Medoc.

I should by the way observe, that all Hermitage wines that have
a decided flavour of raspberry are fraudulent wines ; some indeed have
said that the red Hermitage has the bouquet of the raspberry ; but this
is erroneous, and has given rise to a thousand devices and imapositions.

12

In general, all the wines of Roquemaure; of Saint-Giles-les-
Boucheries ; of Bagnols, (Gard,) of Saint-Georges; of Orques; of
Verargues; of Saint-Christol; of Saint-Drezery; of Saint-Genies ;
of Castries; (Herault,) of Cunac; of Casaignet; of Saint-Juery ;
of Saint-Amarans ; of Gaillac, (Tarn) of Narbonne ; (l’Aube); those
of Rivesaltes, Baixas, Corneilla de la Ribera, of Saint-Jean Lasseille ;
of Banyuls-des-Aspres ; of Argeles and of Sorrede (Eastern Pyren-
nees,) are all employed, most usually, to add body, colour, or taste to
the wines of other departments.

CHAPTER XV.
OF THE DEGENERATIONS AND ALTERATIONS OF WENE.

Theugh prepared with many cares, the best wines are subject to
alterations and changes. The duration of wines depends on the temper-
ature of the season, the stock, the grape, the mode of cultivation, the
wine-making and the cellar. The Marne-river wines last at most
from 6 to 12 years; the Rhenish wines outlive a century ; the wines of
the South will count as meny as 20 or 30 years. White wines seldom
can bear the cask more than two years, and the bottle four or five ;
the red are more lasting.

The most frequent changes of the wine are from Roping, Acidity,
Bitterness, Turbidness, Pricking, Mustiness, Freezing, and Sediment.

1. Of Roping.

Roping is a milky alteration undergone by wines produced from
crops in a rainy season ; when the fermentation has been weak; they
jase their natural fluidity and become as viscid as oil. White wines
are but slightly subject to this, unless very weak and meagre; those
that have scarcely any spirit will rope even when well corked, but
recover and become limpid of themselves. This recovery generally
takes place about the first or second succeeding season. The whitish
sediment that was the first characteristic, becomes brown, dry and
deposited in scales, restoring its former transparence to the wine. It
is not, however, prudent, always to wait for this moment ; cream of tar-
tar should be resorted to, or, as the chymists term it, in wordy style,
sur-deuto-tartrate of potass is necessary to cure the roping. For a
barrel containing 75 gallons take two gallons of wine, whether ropy or
sood wine the effect is the same, and heat this quantity to boiling
heat; then throw into it from 6 to 12 ounces of very pure cream of
tartar, dissolved with its weight ofsugar; pour the whole boiling hot inte
the cask, wifich must be bunged and luted air-tight, then shaken and

123

rolled for five or six minutes. Ifthe heads of the casks appear strain-
ed during this operation, a spigot hole must be instantly made near
the bung, but only a very slight portion of the gas must be permitted
to escape ; it is the carbonic acid gas which destroys the vegeto-ani-
mal principle which is the cause of ropiness. Two days after, the wine
must be fined; but instead of whisking with the bung open, the cask
must be only rolled and then left to rest. Five days after, the wine
will be found limpid, clear, clean, free from roping ; it must then be
racked off. Bottled wine that needs clearing, must be poured into a
cask and proceeded with in the same manner.

There are other remedies pursued, such as drawing the wine over
fresh lees; fining and stumming with care; raising the tempera-
ture of the air; bringing the bottles into the open air ; fining with is-
inglass and whites of eggs together ; all these things may be repeat-
ed over several times, if need be, taking care to pour the wine from
a considerable height, that by its agitation it may become imbued
with atmospheric air. But to tell the truth, the wine is never as
good, cured by these prompt measures, as when it slowly re-esta-
blishes itself.

2. Asidity.

All wines may sour, but weak ones are most liable to turn a¢id.
This change is very common at the rise of the sap, or during the flower-
ing ; it must be remedied in the very onset, as it is a constantly in-
creasing fault. The wine must be drawn off into a cask that has been
highly impregnated with sulphur from burning matches; this cask
must be placed in a colder spot than that where the wine was stored
previously, and must be jfilled-up faitlifully, as is done with the new
wine. Every vintner has his own®ecipes. One boasts that one fifth
of skimmed milk added to the cask will cure it ; another that honey or
barley-sugar melted in the wine is the thing ; another commands the
wine to be saturated with acetate of magnesia ; another that it be fined
with bone-glue. But the best means is to pass the wine, during
the vintage, through the vat,after having drawn off the new wine.
This will restore it to its taste, but it must be consumed as fast as
possible ; because it is very sure to return to its previous state during
the next shooting of the Vines.

If the acidity has arrived at the second degree of fermentation,
nothing can be done ; and it must be converted into vinegar. If the
acidity is only on the surface there is a way of remedying, which 4s

124

this ; the cask must be quictly unbunged, and the canula or funnel in-
vented by M. Horpin plunged pretty deep into the cask; good wine
being poured through this instrument, the spoiled wine on the top
runs over at the bung, without mingling with the wine of the cask,
or that used in filling up.

3. Of Bitterness.

This complaint generally befals only the best wines, and is one
of, the results of age. The wines of L’Yonne, a part of Cote’d’Or,
and of Saone and Loire, which are very subject to it, have, when
mature, a slight undertaste of acerbity; they are often limpid while
labouring under this alteration. If they are in casks they may be re-
stored by passing them over new lees, or renewing them with fresh
wine of the same vineyard; but they have lost their bouquet, and are
perpetually on the brink of relapsing. ‘They must be drawn off and
employed immediately, or else made into brandy. A cask may be fined
with the whites of four fresh eggs, and left to settle a month or two;
and then, if perfectly clear, be racked off into a fresh well-sulphured
vessel.

If the wine is bottled, it may be hoped that it will re-establish itself
at the end of two or three years, if not touched or disturbed. The
wine has then lost in its bouquet, and colour, but gained in finish and
delicacy ; is very agreeable to drink and cordial tothe stomach. It must
be drawn off before it is moved abroad; some Vine-growers accele-
rate the recovery of the bottled wine by carefully drawing it off when-
ever they perceive that it has deposited a sediment.

4. Loss af Colour, or Turbidness.

All wines as they grow old become paler and are the better for it ;
but the loss of colour which is an injury, renders the wine opake ;
red wines become black, and white wines take a livid tyellow hue, and
the taste becomes very disagreeable ; they are then called scorched.

The first thing to be done is to remove the bung and air the wine ;
then rack it off into a well-sulphured cask, plate it in a very cool cel-
lar, there rack it anew and fine it. If these means do not suffice,
there must be a mixture tried of stout and bland wines, old and new
wines ; but only those must be used that are of the same vineyard.
If none such are on hand, recourse may be had to those already

125

ientioned as used for mixing; but the new should not be under ten
months, and if possible should be a year old. If wines of four or five
months old are added to those of three or four years, not to say older,
their principles are not in harmony, and the evil ferment will redouble
instead of being allayed.

Though some bottled wine, attacked by this change, has been known
to recover by itself, it would be very unsafe to risk the loss of all the
wine in expectation of such a fortunate circumstance. It is best
to stum, fine, and rack.

5. Of Pricking.

This seems to be occasioned by the contact of the external air ; and
seldom comes from any other cause than negligent bunging up. The
wine is impoverished, grows pricked, and loses its bouquet; white
filaments are seen in it, a proof of the alteration of the vegeto-ani-
mal principle. At first it may be easily relieved, especially if the
wine has body and strength: it must be racked off into an empty cask
which has lately held good wine, and which has been thorough-
ly sulphured ; the cask must be filled up and luted; a fortnight after,
the wine must be fined, racked, and bottled.

But if the taste is very sharp, one third or more of newer, strong,
and more alcoholic wine must be added ; or what is preferable, 15 or
20 gallons of fresh lees to a cask containing 240 bottles; mix it up well
with the altered wine once a day at noon for three or four days; then
let it rest a month, rack it off and bottle it. Ifthe accident happens
during the vintage it would be well to pass the altered wine over
the murk.

It is almost neediess to add that by fresh lees is meant the lees
from which new wine is racked, and that there may be substituted
for it, for some wines, either brandy or alcohol in certain proportions.
But the drugs in recipes for this purpose, such as salts of saturn,
ceruse, litharse—are to be avoided; they are preparations of lead and
all poisonous.

One vine-grower has saved his wines from pricking by watering the
outsides of the casks, during the season that the products of the
Vine are disquieted by an internal ferment, with cold well-water or
even applying ice. The cold promptly arrested the elementary fer-
mentation, and prevented its developement.

—
eS
a
we

6. Of Mustiness.

Many causes may give rise to this serious accident. An ill-con-
ditioned cask, a rotten egg used in the fining, an immense quantity
of insects crushed with the fruit, or spoiled grapes that have got into
the vat, will give the best wine a musty taste, and take away its
bouquet.

Racking off into a well-conditioned, sulphured cask, and throwing
in a handful of cracked peach-pits, shells and kernels both, sometimes
remedies the evil when taken at the commencement. Some ad-
vise that beech-wood charcoal should be put into the cask; others
to cut dead ripe medlars into quarters, string them and let them ma-
cerate in the wine for a month; or to take a slice of toasted bread or
a handful of toasted wheat, put it in a bag and hang it in at the bung,
for three or four days. But if the alteration is decisive, it is useless to
deceive yourself; for it will be next to impossible to re-establish the
wine, even by a mixture with other wines. It even makes a bad
brandy, and the vinegar from it is hardly passable.

7. Of Freezing.

When the wine, as will sometimes happen in a cellar not sufti-
ciently tight, or during transportation in winter, is caught by the frost,
1¢ must be immediately racked off, carefully avoiding to break or
disturb the ice, and so bring it away with the liquor. This ice will
make the wine weak and flat ; though the water of which it is com-
posed was one of the constituent parts of the wine, yet, by freezing
it has been rendered insipid and raw. But with due precaution,
though there will be a loss in quantity, the wine will be sensibly bet-
tered, when separated from the aqueous part which disposes light
wines to sour; the liquor is more alcoholic, and if new, loses much of
its harshness. For this reason many vine-growers expsose their casks
to hard frost.

But if the vessels are overlooked and a thaw should strike them, the
consequence is that the liquor is turbid, pale, and sometimes of a livid
colour. This is remedied in part by racking into sulphured barrels,
and adding a little more than a gill of alcohol to every cask containing

0b ottles, then bunging air-tight : and if the wine is settled in a few

10°74

gays, fining and bottling it. [If it is still too weak, it musi be
heightened by mingling with it a stronger wine.

&. OF Sediment.

As they acquire age, and according to the crops and seasons whicia
have produced them, some wines are subject to form settlings, of a na-
ture different from the lees. These are of two kinds ; the one becomes
amass at the bottom of the vessel, or coats the sides; the other,
specifically lighter, keeps suspended in the liquor.

This sediment has the appearance of litharge, and to discover its na-
ture the following test is used. Dry it and throw it on live coals, if it
burns with a thick smoke and the smell of burning tartar, keep
up the heat and it 4fill leave a small white residuum, which is simply
potass ; if the presence of litharge is suspected, a few grains of flower
of sulphur thrown into atumbler of the wine will immediately make
it known by a heavy black precipitate.

' Tartar precipitates in the form of scaly crystals in almost all wines,
even the best; in fat oily wines it looks like a muddy sand, so also
in mixed wines that have not equally fermented. Tartar gives no ill
taste and but slightly affects the limpidity of the liquor; it is even
thought that it makes it neater, less subject to alterations, and more fit
for keeping. Bottled wine should never be changed unless for im-
mediate drinking ; except where the wine is to undergo transporta-
tion ; in that case it must be put into new bottles, because the moving
would shake up the old sediment and injure the taste and transpa-
rency perhaps without remedy.

This pouring off from one bottle to another requires patience and
address ; care must be taken to_keep that side of the bottle down-
warks which has always been the lowermost, and the pouring must be
done slowly, and with a firm hand, to the last spoonful, which must
not be allowed to enter the new bottle.

A funnel to facilitate this operation and to prevent waste, has been
invented by M. A. Jullien, author of several works on rural economy.
He names it Cannelle aerifere ; and its construction leaves nothine
to be desired.

Red wines cast a heavier sediment than white wines. Those, the
sediment of which isso light that it mixes with the liquor the mo-
ment the bottle is moved, cannot be poured off clear; Such for in-
stance are tlie sparkling wines.

BOOK FOURTH.

OF BRANDIES.

Wine as soon as well-fermented, with the whole saccharine muci-
lage transformed into spirit, is convertible by distillation into what
is termed brandy. I shall touch upon the process merely to lay before
the farmer and vine-grower, the most simple, easy and expeditious
means of distilling in the small way, which is often a highly advan-
tageous family resource to those who cultivate vineyards. I shall con-
fine myself to the strictly necessary directions, leaving the distiller on
a large scale to recur to the professional works on that subject.

The process is so entirely of modern date, that there is not on re-
cord a single fact of its being known or practised before the thirteenth
century, even by the Arabians so well acquainted with the distil-
lation of perfumes and essences. It is generally conceded that the
invention is due to Arnaud de Villeneuve of Lyons. It was not
brought to perfection tillso late as 1801, when, for the first, an econom-
ical and complete method was introduced by Edouard Adams of Nismes.
Happening to be present at a chymical lecture where Woulf’s ap-
paratus was exhibited and discussed, he, though a mere manipula-
tor, was struck with the idea of a new still for wines, and succeeded
to arrange one; by which, with one heating, the whole spirit of the
wine might be drawn over, and the brandy be not only equal to
Dutch proof, but to 35, 36, and 37 degrees, proof* The only im-
provement of which Adams’ method was susceptible has been made
by Isaac Berard, and the art of distilling owes to them both the high-
est gratitude. ;

* These are distiller’s terms for such spirit as stands at 290. in the areometer of
Cartier ; Qnd. such as stands at 340. of the areometer, and was drawn over by the 12h;
rectification in the old method; 3rd. such as was produced by the 13th rectification, and
stood at 360 of the areometer.

CHAPTER I.

SELECTION OF WINES.

Brandv can be obtained from all wines, but in very different propor-
tions and qualities ; the heaviest wine gives the most and the richest.
‘Fhe wines of the South yield the best brandy ; one very rich wine of the
department of Drome gives one third of its bulk in brandy ; wines of
Herault yield one fourth; of la Gironde, one fifth ; and of la Cote-
d’Or, only one eighth. Further north the product ts still less.

The sweeter the wine the more excellent the brandy; and from
old wines it is better than from new. Common coarse wines fur-
nish it plentifully, but rather weak, and very subject to have an em-
pyreumatie flavour. Wine on the turn will yield alarge quantity,

but of inferior quality, and containing much malicacid. From wine
high-charged with tartar the brandy is still poorer. Brandy from
wines made of green grapes, or grapes gathered in cold and rainy
weather, is inferior and scanty. Austere wines yield an abundance
before the souring is complete, but after that, it is of a very poor quality.

White wines are generally preferred to red for distilling, not be-
cause they produce more brandy, but because they are cheaper, and
the liquor of a milder and pleasanter taste. The white grapes of the left
bank of the Charente, of the environs of Rochelle, of Saint Jean d’An-
gely, of Surgeres, of la Tremblade, of the isles of Oleron and Re,
especially the white grape called la Folle-blanche* 1n the west of France
the wine of which is unsavoury but very spirituous, yield the brandies
so highly appreciated in commerce under the name of Cognac.

In Gard and Herault where brandy is made yearly in great quanti-
ties, they distil only red wines, and the quality is inferior, generally
speaking, to that manufactured in the West, both in taste and smell,
notwithstanding the incontestible superiority of the wine.

As yet the causes of this difference are not understood ; whether
owing to the grape, or the processes employed, or whether owing to

a nt

*It is most rife in Champagne, inthe environs of Cognac, Jarnac.
Rouillac, Ruffec, andAigre.

17

130

the neighbourhood of the sea and the wrack used for manure. Another
point on whieh there is little agreement, is the time at which the
wine is fittest for distilling. Some insist that it should be a year
old, others that it should be distilled immediately after the vintage,
er at most two months, while many keep their wines till March or
April. These variances are doubtless owing to the nature of the
wines or the weather of the districts, and may be fairly regarded as
nothing more than approximative data.

The only general rules are these ; Ist, that weak wines should be
put in distillation souner than strong wines, because more apt to
sour; 2nd, rich, racy wines, deep coloured though clear, should have
time to settle, precipitate, and refine, or the brandy will not be as
fine flavoured, and will be apt to take the burnt taste; 3rd, that
the more perfect the fermentation, the richer the wine is of sugar,
and the older it is, the better the brandy. These are the principles
adhered to by vine-growers the most intelligent and successful in their
brandies, and therefore merit some consideration.

CHAPTER II.

ECONOMICAL METHOD OF DISTILLATION.

‘The new machines invented for distilling are very costly, apt to
get out of order, and are as much injured by being laid up as by
being in use ; of course they are only suitable for large establishments.
The old are imperfect, but cheap ; easily repaired, handled and stow-
ed away ; but they require a great deal of fuel, and much attendance,
and therefore reduce the final profits by fartoo much. Between the
disadvantages of these two, it is incumbent on small proprietors to
make a.choice, or else endeavour to obtain a modification of the evils
of both, a desideratum which seems to have been discovered by Astier
of Toulouse in his yearly experiments ever since 1808. He is a cor-
respondent of the Linnean Society, and has modestly preserved an
anonymous fame; but his services to chymistry and rural economy
sway my feelings and make me consider it a duty to betray his name.

He thus expresses himself—

“The main point of the new apparatus consists in profiting of the dif-
ference between the degree of temperature which condenses waiter
and that which condenses alcohol, by which the spirit is kept from
alloy. This 4dam has taken advantage cf by his oval vases* Berard
by his cylinder, Bagliont by his cone. The same separation con-
stantly takes place in any ordinary worm, but as the worm has but
one beak, the phlegm and spirit afterwards unite, and thus united reach,
the cask. This is a fact of which I am certain; and I do insist that by
one and the same distillation may be obtained apart from common
wine, aleohol, Dutch proof-spirit, and simple brandy, all by reject-
ing the phlegm.

“As soon as the still is in operation, the steam from the capital, in the
first turn of the worm is at a temperature of 80° or 1002 Reaumur.
Here, only water condenses; and the alcohol in vapour passes into
the second turn, where it also condenses by the lower temperature.
If the condensed liquid is drawn off from the upper turn it is mere
phlegm or water; while that from the second turn is alcohol or spirit.

- So theory would incline us to believe, and I have found that it is ac-

*The vessels furthest off from the boiler, through which the
worm passes; they are kept full of water during distillation and are
called condensers.

132

tually the case by practice. Having so constructed a worm that I
could draw off separately the products of each of the four turns, I ob-
tained from a very weak Toulouse wine seven eighths Dutch proof
spirit; the same wine by the old method gave only one eighth plain
brandy. The intercepting of the product at each turn I effected in
the following manner. Each turn was furnished with a very slender
lateral pipe, about the thickness of a finger and ending in a faucet and
tap. A crescent-shaped valve placed just before the opening of the
pipe into the worm obliges tle condensed liquid to trickle into the
pipe, and a slight elbow above and below the pipe prevents any
of the steam from running in the same direction. Each of these
pipes follows the main-worm in all its convolutions, comes out of the
condenser by the same opening ; and is led thence, each to its own
recipient. The pipe of the upper turn bas also a second branch with
faucet, which lets out the phlegm as soon as condensed, which is
perfectly worthless. A prover indicates the moment when the feints
should be separated, according as simple brandy or proof-spirit is
wanted. These feints are either detained in the boiler or set aside for
rectification, in all cases necessary for the last spirit which comes
over, without which it is not worth the fire that raises it.”

With this simple apparatus, every thing in proportion may be ob-
tained, that is produced by the most complicated stills, that is to say,
plain brandy, Dutch-proof and even thirty-five and thirty-six proof, but
in small quantities.

Any one who has a worm of the old construction, may at a small
expense adapt it for this method; nothing more is required than
three or four small pipes arranged as already described, and holes
made in the worm for the insertion of the pipes.

Besides producing more spirit, and saving three-fourths out of the
feints, the worm thus furnished shortens the term of distillation by
one half, and consequently there is that much of a saving in fuel. It
took formerly ten hours to work a still, by this method it takes but
five ; so that, easily, and without night watching, the still may be set
twice a day.

Finally, what is still better, by 4stier’s method, a sour wine may
be distilled as well as any other, without (so I am assured by many
correspondents, who have tried it) the least taint being perceptible
in the brandy. Of course, the spirit is less in quantity, because
the acidified proportion of the wine renders none; but whatever is
obtained, is free from acerbity; and all the acid separates and flows
out by the first pipe, which gives an opportunity of turning the ace~
#ous portion to profit.

CHAPTER Iii.

VARIOUS SORTS OF BRANDY.

In every district where the wine is valuable and the press is not
forced, the grape-murk is distilled, as in the Marne vineyards, under
the name of Aixne brandy, and elsewhere by the name of murk or
pumice brandy.

The murk is taken from the wine-press, and after being stirred with
wooden forks or shovels, is thrown into vats and slightly moistened
with water. The vats are well covered down with a woollen cloth ;
and fermentation soon commences. So that the murk may be kept
moist, though not soaking, a small quantity of soft water at the tem-
perature of 120 or 15° of Reaumur is added daily; of the quantity habit
must be the judge ; as soon as the vinous character is perceptible the
murk is ready for the still, and should be treated with a very slow fire.

This brandy is inferior, and it is very difficult to preserve it from
the burnt taste. This latter evil may be prevented either by submit-
ting the murk to a very heavy press, and distilling only the liquor ;
or by using the sand-bath, or by raising the pumice from the bottom of
the boiler by a wicker frame. By these two latter methods pumice
brandy is in no wise different from the spirit of wine; but the
quantity is not as great as when distilled in actual contact with
the fire.

Some vine-growers put the lees of wine to the still; this makes
a still inferior sort ; with a marked acid taste; and is more difficult
to rectify than any other kind.

Almost all the spirits known in commerce by the name of Andaye
brandies, are counterfeits. The real kind is direct from Andaye,
(Lower Pyrennees) is renowned for its mildness and fennel odour,
a flavour peculiar to the wine of those parts. It is imitated with
old Cognac brandy, to every gallon of which one sixth of syrup is
added, and one tenth distilled aniseed-water.

The fenouillette of the isle of Re is only common brandy distil-.
led over fennel. A handful of bruised fennel is thrown into a boiler
that holds 60 gallons, or in place of that a large bunch of the fen-
nel itself gathered in flower.

CHAPTER IV.

DIRECTIONS FOR ATTENDING THE STILL.”

Before pouring the wine into the boiler, it should be so thorough-
ly rinsed and washed that the last water comes off clean. A negli-
gence in this point gives rise to two evils; the one, the formation of a
crust of tartar, lees and extractive matter, which causes the ruin of the
boiler, by preventing the immediate contact of the liquid on the metal
and exposing it to the whole action of the fire; the other is to give,
after the still has been several times used, a certain taint of burning to
the brandy.

As soon as the boiler is clean, the wine is poured in generally fill-
ing it three fourths. A sufficient space must be allowed to prevent the
froth of the boiling liquor from passing over into the worm. Distillers
know by experience how full they may fill; they guage with slips of
wood plunged perpendiculaily into the boiler ; knowing from practice
the capacity of the boiler and the quantity of wine it can hold with-
out inconvenience ; but the surest method is to have a pipe witha
tap at the proper height, and to leave it open when pouring in, and as
soon as the pipe runs, no more should be poured. Another advantage
of the pipe is to allow the internal air to escape as fast as expelled
by the introduction of the wine, and, to enter, when water is poured
in upon the drawing off of the refuse. Chaptal tells of a very large
boiler that collapsed, and burst like thunder, by the pressure of the
external air, as the assistants were pouring in ccld water while it
was still hot.

When the boiler is filled, the next object is to set it in operation ;
the first thing to be done is to station the vats or tubs for receiving the
spirit, and the next to lute the capital to the boiler, and the worm
to the capital. This must be done with care and attention,.to pre-
vent waste.

After the fire has been set, which must be slow and kept as much as

* This chapter is a close abstract from Chaptal ; I could have no bet-
ter resource for such directions. .

1305

possible at the same grade, the air begins to rush out from the free
extremity of the worm; and gradually, the rising steam warms the
capital, and there trickles from the worm a weak, unsavoury bran-
dy, which is caught and set aside to be re-distilled or rectified. The
spirit which succeeds this, is the finest, and is called proof brandy ;
the quantity of it is increased by a careful attention to the regularity
of the fire.

By tasting, trying, &c. it is discovered when this first brandy is fol-
lowed by a weaker kind containing more water ; the first is set aside, .
and the second quality is caught by the receiver. The further the
distillation advances, the more water is contained in the product ;
finally it reaches that point that the distillation contains no longer any
spirit; this is discovered by the taste, and by throwing a few drops

:. of it-on the capital, it turns into steam, which burns with a blue flame

“on the approach of a lighted candle if it contains spirit; if not, it
will not kindle. In the latter case, the fire is immediately put out, and
the refuse is drawn from the boiler.

The quantity of proof i7 andy is in ratio of the quality of the wine.
In the department of Charente, for instance, a boiler containing 60
gallons gives from 23 to 28 quarts proof spirit; that is to say about
one tenth of its bulk of proof brandy, and a little more, of second-
proof. In Gardand Herault, from 60 gallons they obtain 12 quarts
of proof brandy and the same proportion of second-proof. The second-
proof brandy or feznt as it is called, is rectified with a slow fire to
obtain the alcohol; sometimes the feint is put in with the next por-
tion of wine into the still.

Whatever the brandy is distilled from, whether from the wine, the
murk, or the lees, it is put for preservation into casks; there it acts
upon the wood and acquires a peculiar flavour according as the casks
are of beech or oak, which is called the smack of the staves; it be-
comes also yellowish-tinted, which can only be prevented by keep-
ing it in vessels of glass or metal, 2 mode too expensive or too ha-
zardous in case of transportation.

Brandies put into new barrels draw the sap from the staves, and while
they deepen in colour, losea portion of their strength. To prevent dis-
appointments on its arrival in distant places, if brandy of any parti-
cular rate of proof has been ordered, it will be necessary to soak
the casks in bad brandy, or else put up a brandy of a proof a little
higher than the order.

With the old still, all the brandies made for sale had a flavour of
burning, almost inseparable. To this, northern consumers had be-
come so accustomed, that for a long time after the new distilling ap-

156

paratus was introduced, the mild, smooth, sweet spirit had to be a-
dulterated with empyreuma to obtain any sale. This flavour of burn-
ing, which in so many cases rendered white brandy unfit for the
uses of rectified spirit, for instance in the making of cordials, was
lovked on as a sign of strength by the people of the North, whose
rigidity of fibre requires a rough agent to excite its sensibility. And
from the same cause, the spirits distilled from malt, acrid, empyreu-
matic and excoriating,are preferred to the spirits of wine in cold coun-
tries.

Before the new apparatus came into use, the higher rates of proof
in spirits of wine were obtained by rectification or re-distilling. There
were two modes; the one re-distilling im the same boiler, never al-
lowing the heat to exceed 75° of Reaumur.

At that degree the spirit rises and the water is simply warmed; the
spirits all escape through the worm in steam, and the water remains
in the boiler ; the highest proof comes first and the succeeding pro-
duct constantly grows weaker and weaker. By collecting various
rates of proof in due time, into different receivers and mixing them
afterwards, any rate can be obtained; for instance, if the first that
comes over is 36, the sccund 354, and the third 35, you can have 353 by
mixing them all together.

The other process was to rectify with the Sand-bath, by the heat
of boiling water, into which the boiler was plunged; by this means
the brandy could never be struck by a degree of heat equal to the dis-
tillation of water; and this mode, the surest and safest, was therefore
the one most preferred.

CHAPTER V.

USES OF THE MURK.

Press Wines ——After the crushing, the murk is still soaking with
juice ; which is obtained from the murk, by the wine-press, and is near-
ly ag good as that which flows freely.

Pricked Wine, or Piquetie—The refuse of the vintage, consisting
of grapes not quite ripe, must be crushed, and these with the murk
from the wine-press, and the addition ofa little water heated to 150 of
Reaumur, and a few ounces of syrup, put to ferment, produce a low
wine of tolerable strength ; two or three handfulls of young peach
leaves, a bunch of mignonette in bloom, and a little orris-root must
be thrown into the vat, to give it a favour and fragrance. It has a good
face, though rather pale in colour; and is a delightful beverage to the
mowers, when labouring in the fields under a hot sun.

This piquette is liable to sour immediately on exposure to the air; to ,
make it less apt to turn, some add to it honey, which gives it a body.
Others throw into the vat tartar or cream of tartar, which makes the
fermentation stronger and the beverage more spirituous.

The best piquwetie or pricked wine, is made from the pumice of the
white grape; that from the red grape is not so good. Eight or ten
days is enough for the fermentation.

Gravelled Ashes.—The murk, after the piquette is drawn off, if burned
alfords potash in considerable quantities ; from 3500 pounds of the murk,
500 pounds of ashes are obtained, and from these the yield is 110 pounds
of potash.

Spirit of Wine-lees—If warm water is added to the murk and the
whole put into the still, a very fair brandy can, with proper precautions,
be obtained, as I have already noted, under the head of Various Soris
of Brandies.

Verdigris—This name is given to that oxyd of copper which is
formed by the acetic acid of the murk. It is a very important and
extensive object of manufacture, formerly timited to Montpelier, and
which employs a great many hands in all the Vine-srowingdistricts.

18

156

‘The sheets of copper, cut to sizes fitting the vessels that are used,
are covered with the murk, which is distributed layer by layer be-
tween every sheet of copper. Over the whole is poured some low or
soured wine, or acid refuse from the still. As soon as the copper
is sufficiently oxydized, it is rasped and put up in skins for exportation
and trade.

Vinegar.—By a last and very strong pressure, a liquid is extracted
from the murk which is a superior vinegar. To obtain it, the murk is
first well aired and exposed until it sours.

Fodder of Grape Husks—In general the grape husks are a fine
nourishment for all herbivorous animals. Given dry, loose and min-
gled with other substances, the murk is a favorite food of cows, sheep
and fowls; the latter, while they feed onit, lay frequently. It is given
fresh in some places to cows and mules, but improperly; because,
when eaten in a moist state it shortens the lives of those animals ; they
become inebriated and heated ; the milk of the former sours quickly,
and the latter grow weak and feeble.

Manure.—The murk makes a fine sort of manure, and does not, like
all other manures, injure the quality ofthe wine. Itis composted with pi-
seon dung by the following measures. Daily after the vintage large bask-
et-fills are scatt@red around the pigeon-house ; the stones are greedily
eaten by the birds, and they grow fat and multiply fast on this food.
At the end of two months, it is raised, and transported to the hog-
stye, and laid in a trench that runs the length of the pen and into which
the sluices from the pen will drain; this trench is to be prepared for the
murk, and coated at the bottom with a thick layer of soil from the stye.
Into this trench also is collected the dung of geese, ducks and other
fawls upon the farm. As the litter of hogs is of a cold and fat nature,
and the dung of pigeons dry and heating, there results from these and
the murk, a compost exactly suited for the vine. It is carried to the
the vineyard in the month of February, if the weather is fine; day-
Jaberers are employed to loosen and turn up a little of the earth around
eaeh stock ; and women or children carrying baskets of this manure,
throw in a little around each stock, and cover it over lightly with the
earth. ‘The next rains cause the vegetable salts of this compost to
penetrate down to the roots ; and the same season the crop bears witness
to the good effects of this dressing.

Grape-seed oil—Some make a business of washing out the grape-
seeds from the murk with water, and drying the seeds, which, on grind-
ing, yield an oil superior to nut-oil, and which is used in cooking, in
tanning, and forlamps. Thisoil, on burning, emits a flame as brilliant
as olive oil. and with scarcely any perceptible smoke or smell.

139

ft is quite a new thing, even in Italy, where it was first employed.
During my sojourn in the celebrated Peninsula, I saw simple presses,
worked by a single hand, and of extraordinary strength which were
used for this purpose. All my inquiries could discover no earlier date
for it than 1750, about which time Grape-seed oil was extracted in
Bergamo; in 1780 it was made at Rome and around Ancona; in 1818
at Naples, Castellamar and Resina. Since 1791, attempts have been
made to fabricate it in several parts of France, even at Paris, which
have perfectly succeeded. At Berne in 1781, and in several districts
of Germany since 1787, the thing has been attempted; but nowhere
on the great scale asin Italy. It does not with us cover the cost of fa-
brication, because olive-oil is so excellent and cheap, and the other oils
of commerce so cheap and abundant, that no competition can hold
out with them. The Italians beside extract nine per cent. of oil; a
quantity never as yet obtained in France; exertions to that effect are
now under way.

Fuel from the dried Murk. The most usual custom is to take the
murk from the press, break it while still compact into large or small
clods ana stack it under a shed todry: it is then burned in winter,
hike turf or tan.

Pumice baths. Finally, the healing art places the new murk in the
list of strengthening articles in the Materia Medica, very active in
rheumatic pains, old sprains, and weaknesses of the legs and loins in
consequence of rickets. Its efficacy in consolidating cured fractures
is also much boasted. It is thus employed: the diseased part is buried
under a heap of the fresh murk, in a state of fermentation, under
which it is to be kept for a longer or shorter period of time, according
to circumstances. It excites very plentiful sweats, which give great
ease and determine a prompt cure. This is the mode of application
called pumice baths ; it should rather be, pumice cutaplasms.

BOOK FIFTH.

DOMESTIC USES OF THE VINE CROP.

The vine, the fruit, and the wine also, contribute to many uses,
either of importance to commerce, or as additional resources to domes-
tic economy. Of these I shall now treat, as a necessary complement
to the preceding part of my labours. But I shall not make mention of
any other than such recipes as J can warrant, or such usesas long ex-
perience hassanctioned.

CHAPTER I.

USES OF THE LEAVES AND THE SAP.

“ The Leaves.—The leaves of the vine are greedily devoured by ail
cattle, especially the cow, sheep and hog, which are excessively fond
of them. They are a great resource during a dearth of fodder. But
it should not be forgotten that the wood will not ripen without the
leaves; and that they are a great protection against the frost; as
well as an essential towards a mature and plentiful crop. They
should not be plucked; but,as they fall, should be gathered, heaped in
a dry place, or salted and packed hard in barrels. They may be pack-
ed alternately with straw or hay, which soaks the taste of the leaves
and becomes a new delicacy to the cattle.

In some of the southern departments they actually admit the herds
or flocks into the vine-yard itself, to browse, as soon as the vintage is
over. At Alais and Anduse (Gard) they prune off the leaves as soon as
the grapes are gathered ; this method is preferable, as it preserves the
stock, and keeps a leaf to the eye that is in want of shelter against
next year.

Tears of the Vine—Few plants are more abundant in sap than
the vine at the moment of budding. It bleeds extravagantly for the
slightest wound. The bleeding at the bud does the plant no harm; it is
a needful evacuation; but the sap from a cut or wound at this season
is often a fatal injury. To this very limpid liquor many healing pro-
perties are attributed in various country parts.

To collect it, an empty bottle must be buried in the ground, and a
stem, the end of it cut, must be bent over, without breaking, and in-
serted into the neck of the bottle. In afew days the bottle will be
filled.*

* In Missouri it has been noticed that the tears of the native grape
are an excellent substitute for gum arabic, and scarcely distinguishable
from it, in taste or appearance — Translator.

CHAPTER II.

DOMESTIC USES OF THE VINE. —

To keep grapes fresh—There are several ways practised of pre-
serving the grape fresh for the use of the table ; one is to leave it on
the stock, first twisting the foot-stalk ; to hang the bunches each in a
paper bag ; or suspend them in a clean airy room, or spread them out
inaloft onstraw. Thesugar of very sweet grapes will preserve them
dry in this condition for a time; but they soon mould, especially ifthey
have not been slightly dried in a stove, or in the bread-oven, when no
longer hot enough for baking; and they are certain to fail, unless
they have been gathered while the sun was shining, and put up in a
dry place, beyond the reach of the air or light.

But the following process is simple, and the success certain. Take
a new cask, dry and strongly hooped; stand it in some spot where
the temperature is always very nearly equal; cover the bottom of it
with bran that has been well dried in the oven; and put into it the ripe,
unblemished, perfect bunches, layer by layer, filling in with the bran,
before another layer is laid down. When filled, the head must be fasten-
ed down air-tight. Grapes thus put up will keep so well, that 7 months
after the vintage they will be unspecked, without mould or foreign
flavour, even the greyish-white down upon them, the same as if
fresh that moment from the vine. Kiln-dried spent-ashes are used by
some instead of bran; or, as FRANKLIN recommends, very dry millet
seed. It was his custom to keep grapes fresh in kegs lined with Chinese
sheet lead, and filled compactly with millet-seed. The Spaniards
use saw-dust, dried in the sun ; and the casks are previously painted
inside with pitch.

Boxes with rows of wires and hooks te keep the bunches suspended
and separate, are used for this purpose, the joints plastered with mor-
tar, and the boxes are then buried in dry ashes or fine sand ; but grapes
thus put up are nothing equal to those preserved in casks of bran. For
my own part, I cannot say much in favour of the method above men
tioned of spent-ashes sifted into the cask, instead of bran, although it
is asuccessful one ; before the grapes can be eaten they must be put in-

143

to water and shaken, or water poured on them to wash off the parti-
cles, and the crust here and there formed with the juice; and after all,
some portions always remain, which is found extremely disagreeable
in eating.

To dry Raisins —This excellent mode of preserving a delicious
fruit has been in use from time immemorial. The Grecians twisted
the foot-stalk and left the bunch on the vine until it withered, when
it was gathered and dried inthe shade. Raisins, with them, formed
quite a branch of commerce.

The small town of Roquevaire, (Bouches-du-Rhone,) having gain-
ed an established reputation by its raisins, I shall give the recipe there
practised. The Calabrians prepare them well also, but far less suc-
cessfully than the inhabitants of Roquevaire. In that smalltown they
only dry white grapes. They select the largest, pulpiest kinds, with
few stones, and thinly scattered onthe bunch. These are culled dead-
ripe. Every berry with the least speck of rot upon it is picked out
and thrown away. A strong ley is then prepared from wood ashes,
from 12° to 15° of strength for the salts of potash, ascertained by the
aerometer. When on the point of boiling over, the bunches are
plunged in and drawn out as soon as the berries are wrinkled. They
are next put to drain; after which they are spread on hurdles or reed
mats, and kept in the sunshine from sunrise to sunset; during the
night they are sheltered under awnings. Ten fair days are encugh to
dry them; but if the weather is rainy it takes longer.

Roquevaire raisins are considered excellent ; they have a slightly
acidulous, agreeable taste. Calabrian raisins are blackish, which is a
fault, but they are sweeter than those of Roquevaire. Spanish raisins
are finer flavoured than either, but are generally prepared with too
much negligence; they do not keep as well, and are mixed with
very small dry berries. The sort of Syrian raisins called Damascus,
and which have a gilded hue, are highly prized for their exquisite fla-
vour and property of keeping without alteration for two seasons. The
Corinth raisins and currants from Zante and Lipari, also enjoy great
reputation; those of Lipari are often the worse for a little dirt or gra-
vel; but those of Zante are unexceptionable. They are small, rich,
with the flavour of violets and but a single seed. They are prepared
from white and red grapes indiscriminately.

Any family may prepare its own raisins, from perfectly ripe, handsome
srapes; but before exposing them to the heat of the stove or sun,
they should, positively, be bleached in boiling ley. Many persons think
boiling water sufficient ; it is not; and the alcali of the ley, which has a
sreat effect on fruits fo the North, renders the skin tender. Asif

144

does not penetrate into the fruit it does not injure the acid which is the
charm of the dried grape, without which it is cloying and dull.

Grape Syrup or Sugar.—Parmentier has left us quite a complete
treatise on this subject, which should be consulted by ail desirous of
making the most of grape syrup.

This liquor is made by taking from the vat, the must of dead-ripe
white grapes ; if these cannot be had, the juice of black grapes ex-
pressed on purpose; and depriving it of its acids by mixing with it chalk
marble-dust, gypsum, or spent-ashes. If it is to be prepared as soon
as expressed, it need not be sulphured, but stumming is indispensa-
ble to prevent fermentation, if there is to be a delay of only four and
twenty hours. It must be sulphured two,or three times, and each
time be poured out to cool very quickly in shallow trays or dishes.
This syrup does not always need clarifying ; if it should, whites of
eggs, (in proportion to the quantity,) must be whisked in the liquid be-
fore it is perfectly boiled. ‘This syrup is an excellent resource to the
farm-house.

In small vineyards, tne wine of which is not very sugary, or when
the grapes do not ripen as is desirable,this syrup, added to the vat, cor-
rects that fault. When not boiled to so concentrated a strength, this
syrup will, if put to ferment, make very pleasant cordial wines.

In domestic economy, it is an advantageous substitute for sugar;
fine sweetmeats are made with it ; the very best of marmalade, and very
good brandy-fruits, &c.

Grape Cordial_—This I have tried myself for many years, and find
that it is well worth the trouble of making. Take dead-ripe black
grapes, pick them and bottle them; the vessels only half filled with the
fruit, must then be filled with plain brandy, corked, and stood in the
sun for a fortnight. After which they must be emptied into anew, high-
glazed, clean tureen, and the fruit must be mashed withthe hand. The
whole is then to be squeezed through a thick cloth, wlach must be
wetted beforehand with brandy. The liquor thus strained, is returned
into the bottles, with the addition of a little cinnamon and some peach-
stones, cracked, and thrown in, shells and all. The bottles are to be
corked and stood in the sun another fortnight. The liquor must then
be filtered through blotting paper; and is a delightful drink, very cor-
dial and stomachic, and becomes the better the longer it is bottled.

CHAPTER IU.

VARIOUS USES OF THE MUST.

Marmalade—With the must, various excellent marmalades are
made; that of Montpelier enjoys the highest name ; it is made from
white grapes, boiled in the must to aclear jelly and scenjed with ci-
tron and cedraty. The marmalade of L’Yonne and Loiret depart-
ments, though esteemed, is inferior to the former; it is a little more tart
and mixed with stone and seed fruits.

The pears used for this purpose, are the Cressane, Bergamot,
ihe Jargonelle, the Virgouleuse, the winter Bon Chrctien, the Rus-
seting, or other firm kinds. Quinces are thought the most suitable
mixture in marmalades ; apples and plums come next ; and lastly pump-
kins, the rinds of green mangoes and melons, and sugary roots, such
as Carrots, parsnips &c. These fruits must be selected very sound, cut
small, and spread out on fair straw to mellow before used. Table fruit
is not fit for marmalade; it is only fruit in an acerb state that suits ;
that which falls before ripening is put aside for this purpose. The
fruit must be pared perfectly, and the seeds, stones, and hearts, cut out.

In the North and South both, two sorts of marmalade are prepared,
simple and compound. That made at the South, does not require as
much cooking as that at the North. It contains, all other things be-
ing equal, less water, tartar and extractive matter, and more sugar.
Parmentier has described the two modes; and my reader will thank
me for giving the very words of this amiable and excellent man whose
whole life was devoted to useful pursuits, and the means of turning to
advantage every article of rural economy.

“For the simple marmalade of the South, take 6 gailons of must ;
one half must be put ina preserving pan over a quick fire, and the
other half be gradually added every time the liquid boils up; this boil-
ing liquor must not be lost sight of for a moment, and the scum must
be removed as fast as it rises; and it must be strained hot through a
thick cloth. It must then be put back on the fire, and constantly
stirred with a wooden spaddle until it is boiled to a jelly ; this is fountl

19

146

by dropping a little on a dish, when, if it cools into a jelly, it has boiled
sufficiently.

“¢ As for the simple marmalade of the North, when the 6 gallons have
been skimmed and are reduced by boiling to 4 gallons, the pan is
taken from the fire and the liquor poured into stone pans, where it is
left for 48 hours in a cool place. At the end of that time the sur-
face is covered with crystals of salt of tartar, which must be remov-
ed with great caution with a skimmer ; the separation of this: quantity
diminishes the too marked acidity of the preserve, and increases its
sweetness. This process is highly necessary in the North, and ac-
cording to the season the tartar is in greater or less quantities; but
in the South, the presence of tartar is rather desirable to relieve the in-
sipid sweetness of the sweetmeat, which is so great, that aromatics
have to be used to give ita flavour. When skimmed of the tartar,
the must is strained through a thin cloth, decanted and put back on
the fire, where it must be stirred without ceasmg. The must has
become marmalade when it sets in a jelly, on being stood to cool.

Compound marmalade of the South. When the must has been boil-
ed to one half, and been sufficiently skimmed, it must be strained; and
the peeled and quartered fruits must be thrown into the pan; pour over
them the liquor, which by the first boiling up, melts into the necessa-
ry fluidity for acting on the fruit, and softening it into a pulp; stir
constantly, until the boiled fruit is mashed and incorporated, and the
whole syrup is?one homogeneous mass. Towards the last, the fire
should be gradually moderated. To know when it is done, take about
the size of a hazel-nut and drop it on a china dish; if it does not sink
flat, and if no moisture escapes from it forming an areola around it,
the jelly is done. If the fruit has, on account of the vintage ripen-
ing late, been previously stewed—before adding it, the must should
have nearly reached its final consistence.

For the compound marmalade of the North: after the must has been
thickened by boiling, and freed of its superabundant tartar,it is put back
upon the fire with the fruits that are to be mixed with it, precisely re-
gulating the whole in the way already mentioned for the compound
marmalade of the South. But, as the fruit selected is sometimes so
acid that the preserve could not be used without the addition of some
sweetening, a little grape syrup is added, while boiling; the syrup of
sweetmeats, or Southern marmalade. The housekeepers to the North,
who have not at command these means, first clay the must, that is,
neutralize it with powdered chalk; then boil it toa syrup, and after-
wards add the fruit, and proceed with the reduction of the whole as
before mentioned.

147

An excellent marmalade is made from clayed must and pears in the
proportion of 100 or 120 pears to 4 gallons of sweet must, and 4 or 6
quinces; it is sweet and mellow, with a slight tartness that heightens its
fragance and flavour. The Northern marmalades are, on the whole
preferable to those of the South, in which the sugar and tartar are not
in such relishing proportions. The conserve must be covered in pots
from the air, and stood in adry place. When it candies, a little must
may be added to it, or the pots be stood in boiling water for several
hours and the jelly well stirred.

Grape Butter ; in place of adding fruits of various kinds to the boil-
ing must; some only adda certain portion of must that has been eva-
porated and concentrated to thickness; the whole boiled to the con-
sistence of jelly, is a very agreeable and healthy addition to the
table in falland winter. This preserve is poured into pots, with cinna-
mon and cloves, and put in the bread-oven to bake, before it is con-
sidered sufficiently prepared for keeping. Before serving it on the table
it is slightly warmed and is eaten with buttered toast.

CHAPTER IV.

VARIOUS SORTS OF MADE-WINES.

This chapter will refer more particularly to the wines prepared in
the domestic way, and to cordial wines. Vinegar and its compounds
shall be treated ofseparately.

1. Made Wines.

Under this head we must not include the syrups prepared from the
must, because they do not contain a drop of alcohol. These syrups
are only used for sweetmeats, or cordials, or for vats that are filled
with meagre fruit ; or, as is practised in some parts of the Archipelago
and Egypt, to make a delectable sherbet, that will keep in wooden
vessels, if stored in a cellar, for some time.

By made-wine is understood a fermented table-drink, obtained from
a mixture of concentrated must, brandy, and some spices or aromatic
seeds. The preparation of these wines belongs to the housekeeper or
her daughters.

The use of these drinks is very ancient; it passed from Asia to
Greece; from that all over Europe ; they are still in request in Italy,
Spain, especially in the neighbourhood of San Lucar, and in some
departments of France, mostly in the Bouches-du-Rhone. The follow-
ing is the most general recipe.

Pick the ripest, finest, and most sweet smelling grapes of the Maivo-
sie and the Muscat kinds, at the hottest time of day, to avoid the
least humidity. Lay them on hurdles and transport them with great
caution to the spot in which they are to be exposed to the sun. Here
they must be left for 5 or 6 days ; turned three times a day, and shelter-
ed at night. The sixtH day they are to be crushed in the vat. Of
the must thus obtained, only the upper part is taken out for this pur-
pose, the lower not,being considered so exquisite and rich. Thiscream
of the must is put in a copper boiler over a clear charcoal fire, or at
least a fire without smoke, where it must boil until reduced to one
third, being in the mean time carefully skimmed. It is then poured
into new, or perfectly elean, wooden vessels, and when cold is transfer-

149

red to casks and bunged tightly. The wine it makes is of a pretty
amber colour, rich, delicate, and should be racked and bottled promptly.

In some southern districts, as the liquid boils up, they throw in some
aniseed and coriander ; cinnamon; six apricot stones, shells and all,
six peach-pits the same, and after it has stood forty-eight hours, it is
strained through a wet cloth. It is then put away in vessels and
stands the whole winter; when it is drawn off clear, strained through
ajelly-bag and bottled.

The best made wines come from Corsica; in the commerce with
the North they pass for Spanish and Canary wines; and when they
have reached their highest point of activity, and have become real
cordial wines, they are sold for old Cyprus, Tinto, Malaga, and
Madeira wine of the first quality.

To make a wine that will ripen sooner, the liquid must be taken
from the fire just as it is about to boil up, and poured into a cask and
well bunged; it will be fit to drink in three months; and will then
seem to possess all the properties it would have naturally had in the
course of six or ten years. Claret wine 2 or 3 years old, treated in
this manner, assumes in a few hours, the colour, taste, and properties
it shows in ten or twelve years.

Cordial wine is that, the sugar of which is not entirely converted
into aleohol. France produces a considerable number, of good qua-
lity, fit to compete with expensive imported wines of this kind. ‘There
are red and white ; those rated best, are the white Muscats of Rive-
saltes (Eastern Pyrennees,) which connoisseurs liken to the best Mal-
voisy ; Frontignac and Lunel, (Herault); the red Grenache wine
from the vireyards of Bagnyals, Cosperon, Rhodes, and Collioure
(Eastern F; 2nees,) the keen zest of which rivals the Rota or even
Cyprus wine; the white Macabeo, made at Saleeta, (same depart-
ment,) and which somewhat favours Tokay ; and the Museats called
Picardan, Catabrian, Malaga and Madeira imitations &c. which are
prepared in several of the vinegrounds of the department of Herault.

These cordial wines would enjoy a still higher reputation, if it
were not, that by a most blameworthy cupidity, botched wines of this
sort, mended with drugs, are often offered in the market as genuine.
They are adulterated with raisins, Socotrine aloes, cherries, raspber-
ries, peaches, orris or galanga root, or pitch or other like substances,
selected nowadays with peculiar audacity for the purposes cf decep-
tion. The wines thus adulterated are not really unwholesome, but
they have neither the tonic powers of the genuine, nor their fragrant
aroma. As I will lend no encouragement to these fabrications, I shall
give none of the recipes for imitating foreign cordial wines ; but leave
it to the vine-grower to discover among the flavours pf the fruits

150

of his own soil, the clues to still more appetising mixtures; while he
gives his best endeavours to the cultivation of the plant and the per-
fect manipulation of the wine-making process.

3. Straw Wines.

These are so called from the grapes being formerly spread for
several months on straw, or hung on ropes of straw, before being
stemmed and crushed. Straw wines are still prepared in several
vineyards of the district of Colmar (Haut Rhin,); in the neighbour-
hood of Nancy, (de la Meurthe) and at l’Ermitage (de la Drome). As
the modes of pressing are different, it may not be amiss to give a
succint description of them.

In the department of Upper Rhine, straw wine is only made in
very favorable seasons; the best and ripest bunches are selected from
those varieties called retizende or refined ; they are hung upon poles
across the beams; and are visited daily, to pick out rotten or specked
berries. They are exposed to the currents of air until frost, when,
they are covered to protect them from the cold. The grapes are
stemmed in March and carried to the press. As the grape is half
dry it affords but little must, which ferments slowly. The liquor is
drawn off as soon as the fermentation subsides; and it is one tenth
the quantity of what it would have been at the time of the vintage.
It is extremely sweet and smooth, and must be clarified and bottled.
This wine bas no fault save a slight tang of tartness which disappears
as the wine mellows. When six or eight years old it is very neat
and agreeable.

In the departments of Meurthe and those in the neighbourhood, the
grapes are prepared the same way, but they are squeezed in December.
In March the liquor is bottled, corked, waxed and stowed away in
garret lofts. There it completes its fermentation and becomes spark-
ling like Champagne.

The Hermitage straw wine is of a golden colour, and has a fla-
vour like the flavour of raisins. It does not begin to ferment until
several months after it is put into the cask, and therefore, in speaking
of its age, the first year is never counted. The fermentation some-
times lasts six years, and it is not until two or three years after, that
it is ripe enough to please; but then it is reckoned one of the best
cordial wines in the world. Very little is made of it, doubtless on ac-
count of the minute cares and many details requisite to fabricate it in
perfection ; and the difficulties besides, in the way of sale, of an arti-
cle so necessary to be warranted, and costly in all cases.

4. Sparkling Wines.

It is only in the neighbourhood of Rheims and Epernay (Marne,)
that the famous sparkling wines are produced. These wines are ob-
tained by a skilful admixture of black and white grapes; the bunches
selected are the ripest and soundest, and are cleansed from all wither-
ed, green, or rotten berries. They are crushed by a press, that screws
thrice ; the first pressure affords the must for the wine; the second,
‘which gives higher coloured and more spirituous wine, is added in
the proportion of one tenth or twelfth to the sparkling wine ; and the
product of the third pressure is used to add strength to the common red
wines of the country. Sparkling wine is bottled in the month of March
after the vintage; the ebullition commences two months after ; it is very
strong in June, during the flowering of the Vine, and also in August
when the grape begins to ripen; at which time the vine-grower-meets
with great losses from the breaking of bottles. This ferment grows
feeble in autumn, and the next season it causes fewer accidents.

There are two kinds of this wine, the sparkling and the still. The
sparkling is made in those seasons when the grape is not as perfect as
possible, in seasons when the wines are apt to be light, tart, and not
spirituous ; but the séz/l is made from the crops of seasons which were
warm and regular, and in which the grape had come to perfection.
The sparkling often lose their sweetness and fire in growing old, but
become the livelier, the carbonic acid gas being constantly on the in-
crease.

5. Rose Wine.

The grapes in the department of Marne, intended for rose wine,
are culled and gathered with the same precautions as those for the
sparkling wine; they are also crushed in the press; before being put
to the press, they are stemmed and slightly bruised in vessels for
this purpose, and left until incipient fermentation, by which the co-
lonring matter begins to give a rosy tinge to the must.

This is the usual method; but some make use of a mixture called
from the place of its manufacture, Vin de Fumes, Fimes wine. It is
made from elder berries boiled with cream of tartar, and filtrated. A
few drops of this liquor will give the colour ; it is of a finer hue and keeps

152

longer than that obtained by fermentation ; and it is thought that it
does not in any degree impair the taste or wholesomeness of the wine.
Nevertheless, I cannot second the use of it with my recommenda-
tion, as I do not believe that any adulteration or imitation can equal
native excellence.

G. Rape Wine.

Rape wine is manufactured in the neighbourhood of Orleans and in
several other departments from stemmed grapes to which feints are
added, or from grapes laid in layers with Vine sprouts, or by mace-
rating Vine sprouts inthe must. It is boiled afterwards, and the liquor
thus obtained is used to colour the low wines of cold and wet places,
or to give them strength.

CHAPTER It.

OF VINEGAR.

The last article of produce from the grape is the acetic acid, or
vinegar, the most generaland useful of acids. The characteristics of
vinegar are its peculiar odour, sharp without acrimony ; a sour taste
neither pungent nor disagreeable; a winy colour paler than any red
wine ; and a rate of concentration usually from four to six degrees.

Beside the constant tendency of wine to sour, there are modes and
means of hurrying or promoting its acid fermentation. One way is to
macerate in the wine, Vine shoots, stems of the bunch, green grapes, &c.
but this foreign leaven is not enough, without the contact of the open
air, and a temperature of from 18 to 20 degrees ; the wine too should
abound in alcohol and not be deep coloured. It should at least be a
year old also, and never have been stummed. But these remarks only
apply to the making of the choicest vinegar; for all deteriorated and
injured wines, not reclaimable for other purposes, are properly set aside
for vinegar; still the violent ferments that have previously injured their
qualities, continue to show their effects, when the liquor is converted
into vinegar. The taste, smell, and strength are inferior. The re-
eipes of the vinegar-merchant indicate the necessary steps for bring-
ing this acid to its highest degree of strength ; and the whole princi-
ples of the art may be found fully developed in the tenth volume of the
first edition of the Cours Complet d’agriculiure of Rozier. But as
I only write for vine-dressers, heads of families, and the rural man-
sion, I need only give the directions necessary for making vinegar as
a household preparation.

Domestic Vinegar.—Have a barrel expressly for this use ; and pre-
pare it with the mother as it is called, to communicate a high degree
of acidity. ‘Tothis effect pour in several quarts of boiling vinegar,
which allow to remain inthe unbunged cask for seven or eight days ;
the barrel should stand where the temperature is mild and equal.
Draw this off, and pour in the souring wine, and leave the bung open

cM 20

154

When it has become vinegar, and needs clarifying, take out a few gal-
lons, into which pour a tumbler of boiling milk and shake strongly ; let
it stand till it settles, and the result is a straw-coloured vinegar, with
the fragrance perfect, which would have been lost by distillation.

Distilled vinegar is white and very sharp, but retains an odour of
burning for a long while; this inconvenience is only to be obviated by
distilling in the sand-bath ; orif the still is heated by boiling water which
has been thickened by a strong solution of muriate or nitrate of lime,
which raises the heat above that of boiling water, the distillation is
easily effected in a perfect manner.

Aromatic Vinegar.—For this, white vinegar is necessary ; lavender,
thyme, or rosemary nips, or tarragon sprigs, are picked fresh, and
spread before a hot fire to give them a quick and sudden drying, just
enough to deprive themof any excess of moisure. They are then
to be shred fine into the vinegar; which, when it seems strong-
ly imbued with the requisite flavour, must be strained clear to pre-
ventits growing mouldy, or changing in its colour and properties from
the presence of foreign substances.

The above are the aromatic flavours most in request ; however, use
is also made of citron, raspberry, roses, elder-flowers, &e. The man-
ner in which it is done is the same as for the tarragon, &c.

Sallad Vinegar—The recipe for this Compound Vinegar is due
to Parmentier. It is highly agreeable and tonic.

Take tarragon, summer savory, cives, shallots, and garlic, of each
3 eunces; mint-tops and blossomed balm, each a handful; dry the
whole and shred the articles into a two-gallon demijohn, which fill
with vinegar and leave a fortnight infusing in the sun; then decant
the vinegar, strain and squeeze through a jelly bag, and filtrate and
bottle it; the bottles must be well corked.

Vinegar Syrup—This is a very healthy and agreeable summer
beverage.

Fill a gallon of vinegar with as many clean picked, ripe raspberries
as will take up the liquer. Let it stand a week; then pour the
whole out into a silk sieve, and let it run through without squeezing.
To every pound of this liquor put two pounds of loaf-sugar, broken
small, and put the vinegar and liquor in a close alembic in the sand-
bath, over a very moderate fire; as soon as the sugar is melted, put
out the fire; when the syrup is nearly cold, bottle it, cork it well and
set it in a cool place.

BOOK SIXTH AND LAST.

BRIEF HINTS ON THE DISEASES INCIDENTAL TO THE
VINE-DRESSER.

In general, our vine-dressers toil laboriously and fare poorly ; and if
excessive exertion occasions diseases, bad nourishment weakens and
deranges the vital functions. Undoubtedly the necessity of doing
with promptitude the labours requisite about the Vine, is the reason
why such extraordinary and zealous activity is indispensable in the
labourer ; but if amid this driving of work, poverty or what is worse,
cupidity, refuses to afford the necessary and nourishing aliments,
serious and complicated debilities are the consequence. The labour-
ing countryman requires healthy food : he requires four meals a day,
and five during the vintage, but these should be frugal. Frugality
sustains and strengthens the native powers of the digestive organs,
and bestows a robustness of health, tc which toil seems light, and rest
after fatigue a luxury. I have seen men, who had lived the greater
part of their lives on no other nourishment during the better half of
the year than bread, cheese and water, able to work with an unremit-
ting ardour, and retaining their strength at an age which the inhabit:
ant of cities rarely reaches without being overwhelmed with infirm-
ities. The activity of the digestive organs in the rustic lahourer
is a proof of the justness of the remark of Tissot, that we are supported
not by what is eaten, but by what is assimilated.

Cleanliness in clothing and salubrious dwellings are points of great
importance to the vine-dresser ; the looseness and size of his vest-
ments is all extremely proper, but the vine-dresser is too frequently
incautious in not resuming them when he rests from his exertions.
By this want of foresight inflammatory diseases are very frequent ;.

156

inflammations of the joints, acute rheumatisms, dysentery, and inter-
mittent fevers.

One essentially dangerous vice is, the habit of drinking wine or
brandy to excess, which is here and there to be seen among the vine-
dressers. These excesses sharpen and render inflammatory the
diseases that befal the young, and cause incurable dropsies in the old.
It is far from my thoughts to forbid that wine to the labourer which
he has toiled so hard to produce with the sweat of his brows; wine
is necessary to the labouring man to support his strength; but it is
the abuse against which I speak ; it is so hard a sight to behold the
useful man dishonoured and degraded, and reduced to the level of the
dangerous and burthensome sluggard.

But these are general considerations; let us look more closely to
those diseases inherent in the condition of the vine-dresser.

In nearly every operation about the Vine, the labourer must keep
himself bent double, which causes such pains in the back, as with
the alternatives of heat, and cold, and wet, disposes him, with age,
to remain bowed, or round-shouldered ; I have seen very aged labour-
ers whose backs seemed bent at right angles, but they walked very
well with a stick. This may be prevented by the distribution of
labour, and the use of bathing ; but the vine-dresser too often prefers
to doas his fathers have done before him, and to march off to the
tavern from the vineyard, rather than to take care of himself. These
pains in the back can be relieved by frictions of camomile, olive, or
nut oil, with one twelfth part of volatile alcali; a woollen girdle or
sash, also, should be worn next the skin.

The vine-dresser feels no inconvenience from the spring sun, but
in the summer, the heat upon the head sometimes induces violent
pains, turgidness of the bloodvessels, vertigo, bilious vomiting &c.
When the evil is violent enough to call for prompt remedies, the
physician should be sent for ; and in the mean time the patient should
be kept remote from the light and from noise ; water, acidulated with
vinegar, given him to drink ; his feet should be soaked in very warm
water saturated with salt or mustard, and emollient enemas be
administered.

There is no labourer more subject to hernias than the vine-dresger.
From the moment of attack every precaution is necessary, if he
wishes to feel able to continue devoted to his usual tasks, or even to
any of the slightest severity.

A silly notion of economy too often leads the sufferer to look to
some tailor or seamstress for a bandage ; but the use of a regular truss
applied by a physician of judgement and experience, is the only course

157

to be pursued, if he would act with justice to himself or family.
A false bandage, instead of being the means of sure and easy com-
pression, is useless and embarrassing, and fitter to increase the evil
than diminish it.

During the first ferment of the wine enclosed in the vat, or even
when it is in the cask in small cellars, that have no draught, and are
very low, vapours are disengaged, which are inebriating, and occasion
vertigo, vomiting, numbness of the limbs, and overpowermg stupor.
These symptoms are not dangerous ; rest and the open air, and drinks
of hot coffee or acidulated water are sufficient to restore the individual
to health ; but too long an exposure to the carbonic acid gas renders
the numbness dangerous, and asphyxia and sudden death are near at
hand. It is better that these accidents should be prevented by fore-
sight, than to trust to curative means to rescue the victims. Before
entering a cellar, endeavour to discover by the smell whether the
mephitic gas pervades it ; if, on slightly opening the door, the peculiar
odour is perceived, throw it open and leave the spot immediately, to
give a chance to the expansive gas to escape from the confined pre-
cincts. If the smell does not satisfy you, open cautiously and look
steadily into the cellar; if you perceive a mist in it hovering, and
about to rise above the vat or casks, do not enter, but use means to
disturb the air in the cellar, and if possible establish a draught. If
neither of these directions give satisfactory results, if the presence
of the mephitic air is suspected, notwithstanding appearances to the
contrary, then drop alighted candle by a string into the cellar, over
some vat or cask. Ifthe flame grows yellow, faint, and expires, the
air of the place is dangerous to life, and must be renewed.

When asphyxia has taken place, the assistance should be immediate
and persevering, but not hurried or careless. The first thing is to
bring the unfortunate individual into the fresh air; after which,
every part of the dress that might obstruct respiration must be
loosened, and not a ligature or tightness of any sort be allowed
around the body or limbs. Cold water and vinegar must be
sprinkled, or dashed, over the face and skin, and light frictions be
applied to the chest. If these means seem unavailing, the lungs must
be inflated, either by an apparatus, or by some bystander breathing
into the mouth of the patient, and then pressing the hand lightly
on the chest and abdomen, to re-establish the mechanical operation
of respiration in the lungs; purgative enemas should next be tried,
blisters be put on, or even leeches applied in various parts of the body.
Such exertions as these must not be discontinued for several hours ;
the least negligence or impatience may accelerate death, while these

158

humane efforts, stéadily persisted in, are very seldam ineffectual.

I shall say nothing of such diseases as the vine-dresser is liable
to, in common with every cultivator of the soil; nor those which may
afflict him in common with every human being. My sole purpose has
been to give a few hints of advice that may be useful, happy if my
task has been fulfilled in a manner to satisfy the reader and to evince
the sincerity of my wishes to see my country prosperous in agricultur-
al arts, those nurseries of health, and happiness; whose influence
is so closely united with the duration and final destinies of a nation.

THE END.

PT oe a ae

EXPLANATION

OF THE

PLATE.

Figure 1]. VINE-SHEARS.

These shears were invented by M. de Molleville, and have receiv-
ed such improvements through the late Edme Regnier, that the
pruning-hook, not one of the disadvantages of which belong to the
shears, is now entirely supplanted by them.

The instrument, on the principle of a pair of nippers or pincers,
is composed of two handles, a a, one of which terminates at top in a
curved or hooked slope b, and the other in a cutting blade of tem-
pered steel. By means of the double steel spring, d d, the branches
of the shears are kept open ; to assist in closing them, a loop, passed
through a hole in the end of the handle, is jerked by the hand of the
operator.

A. The instrument closed.

B. The same open; by closing the branches a a, the blade c, cuts
through the wood, shoot, or stem, against the slope 5, with the
cleanness and certainty of a sharp knife, without giving any shock to
the plant. It sells at the price‘of five francs, ($1,) and is to be had in
all directions. ;

Fievre Il. QUENTIN DURAND'S GIRDLER.

With this instrument girdling can be performed without danger to
the plant, and with certainty of neatness and precision ; also with the
saving of half the time.

A. The instrument in front.

-B. A side view.
Tt has steel blades, a; two cutting edges, crescent-shaped ; a guard
to prevent the edges from cutting too deep; and springs to regu-

il

late the force applied to the handles. The dotted lines ) show the
circuit from left to right made by the instrument during the operation
of girdling.

Fieure Il]. BETTINGER’S CUTTING NIPPERS.

Bettinger’s utensil deserves to be preferred to all others for safety
and expedition in girdling. The inventor is a lock-smith in Paris,
Rue du Faubourg-du-Temple, No. 94.

A. shows it in front, B. in profile. The several parts are a, the
handles ; 6, spring to keep them open ; ¢, four steel edges; d, screws
to fasten the edges. From the shape of these edges, which are set
free in the prongs or nippers of the instrument, and are screwed
across 8n opening, there is a passage above and below them, as, they
work, by which the bark and skin is carried off. The edges, as-they
are mounted, do not project further in face of the prongs than is
necessary for cutting the bark without hurting the wood.

Figure lV. MACHINE FOR CRUSHING THE GRAPES.

The idea of this machine originated with M. Acher, of Chartres:
but has been brought to its present perfection by the author of this
treatise. Not the smallest berry can escape its action which redu-
ces them to pumice with celerity, exactitude, and neatmess.

It is composed of a wooden frame-work, to the upper part of which
a hopper, @, is attached, into which the grapes. are thrown. From
this, the berries pass under a cylinder, 6, which is turned by an iron
handle, c; the cylinder is garnished with nail heads which scrape,
as the cylinder revolves, against. the teeth of an iron comb, d, which
is firmly suspended from the hopper a, by two screwed hinges, e.

The cylinder 6, should be afoot in diameter and three and a half
iong. The nail-heads must be driven into it im bias or slant-wise
lines; the spindle of it should be iron, and for the convenience of the
workman, should have a turned wooden handle &, over the iron
spindle. The spindle is slung at both ends, inte a noteh 2; and the
back of the hopper, and a portion of the sides of it, are carried down.
beyond the cylinder, in such a manner as to form a projecting, broad, -
open gutter or slide, down which pours the bruised pumice into such
vessels as are stationed to receive it.

ill

‘Fhe teeth of the comb are perpendicular to the spindle of the
cylinder, and the use of this comb is to clean from the nail-heads, ali
obstructions that might clog them.

Fieurr V. THE CRUSHING MACHINE OF M. GUERIN.

A. The machine seen from above; B, a perpendicular section of
the same. There are two rollers a a, which, by pressure and rub-
bing mash the fruit. They are put in motion by two toothed wheels 66
of different sizes, which causes one of the rollers to move more rapidly
than the other. Each wheel is attached to its roller by the spindle;
the handle belongs to the smallest wheel. The largest wheel is ten
inches' broad ; the smaller is only six and a half inches in diameter.

These cylinders lie along the bottom of a hopper, ¢c, mto which the
stemmed grapes are thrown, and open upon a trough, d, below, that is
five feet nine inches in length.

Frevre VI. KVSTRUMENT FOR FILLING CASKS.

The inyentor of this instrument is M. Horpin of Metz; it is eal+
culated for the purpose of preventing the spoiled wine on the surface
from mixing with the rest in the cask. The long tubé of this funnel
is plunged in at the bung-hole to a considerable depth, and new
wine is poured through it without disturbing the cask, and the spoiled
wine is led off at the same time without any commotion.

This funnel has a wide mouth and a long vertical tube, a, through
which the wine is poured ; and a jointed tube 6, through which the
layer of spoiled wine escapes. Both these tubes pass through a bung
of aconical shape, c, made of tin, and which is wrapped with linen,
to fit it to the bung-hole for the operation; d, isa handle of iron
wire fastened to a cork e, whith cluses the lower orifice of the funnel.

It can be made of tin; the tube a should be from 15 to 18 inches
long ; and four inches broad across the mouth ; in the centre it should
be 8 lines broad, and the lower opening should be two lines in breadth.
The tube 6 should be four lines broad, and from 3 to 4 inches long.

The false bung is made solid on all sides, is three inches broad above,
an inch and a half below, and the same in thickness. The wire d, must

ili

pass through the cork, and be fastened above and below with screw-
taps; or instead of the cork, may be used; vive of varnished silk,

opening from above, downwards.

FUNNEL.

Fisure VII. JULLIEN’S SYPHON.

' The use of this is for the transferring of wine from one bottle to
another. The syphon 4, is introduced into the bottle to be drawn off,
up to the conical cork b, which must close the neck perfectly, and
allow the end of the syphon c, to touch the upper side of the bulge of
the bottle. This syphon terminates outwardly in a beak d, and is
opened and closed at will by the faucet or screw e. The wine enters
the syphon by small holes made in g near the cork b. A small horn
or hook h, is soldered to the beak of the syphon to receive the loop of
wire j, by which the small funnel / is fastened to the syphon. The
screw i, should be open when the syphon is introduced into the bottle.

A. The syphon.

B. The funnel. The neck of the syphon fits to the mouth l, of
the funnel; and is fastened by the wire-loop j, to the small horn /
of the syphon. The extremity m of the funnel és curved s0 as to
lead the wine against the side of the bottle. The funnel must be
made fast before the operation is begun, and, should not be moved

until the drawing off is over.

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