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MARKS
VISIT TO THE KING OF
BURMAH ATMANDALAY,
IN OCTOBER, 1868
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
A VISIT
TO THE
KING OF BUR M AH
AT MANDALAY,
IN OCTOBER, 1868.
WITH REMARKS ON THE PROSPECTS OF
CHRISTIANITY IN BURMAH.
BY THE
REV. J. E. MARKS,
MISSIONARY OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE PROPAGATION OF THE GOSI'EI.
AT RANGOON.
LONDON:
BELL & DALDY, 4 & 5, YORK STREET,
COVENT GARDEN.
LONDON :
R. CLAY, SONS, AND TAYLOR, PRINTERS,
BREAD STREET HILL.
BURMAH.
INTERVIEW WITH THE KING.
THE following important letter from the Rev. J. K. MARKS has
just reached the Society. Never before was so good an oppor-
tunity offered to any Christian Church for the propagation of the
Gospel in BURMAH as this which the Society is now invited to take.
Some of our readers may remember the striking letter n-hich the late
Bishop of CALCUTTA wrote in October, 1862, urging on the Society the
extension of Missions along the east side of India ; which was followed
in 1866 by an appeal on the subject from the Missions Committee and
the Standing Committee. Since then, through the energy and zeal of
Mr. MARKS and his fellow-labourers, the Missions of our Church have
been gradually pushed forward beyond Rangoon and Moulmein,
until they have now reached the capital of Burmah. In the present
state of the Society's funds some special effort seems necessary if
this advantageous post is to be secured to Christendom, and to be
made a base for farther operations. Our Missions and schools are
insufficiently manned, and we have no resident Bishop in Burmah.
"The British Residency, Mandalay, Upper I'urmah,
2oth October, 1868.
" IT is now my duty and my pleasure to address you with regard
to my Mission to the King of Burmah. My former letters have
put you in possession of the first stages of this attempt, but I
think it better that I should here briefly recapitulate them.
In 1863 I met, in Rangoon, the Thonzay Mintha (prince), one of
the sons of the King, who had fled from the capital. I gave him
several Christian books in Burmese, and spoke to him about their
contents. He became reconciled to the King, and, on his return to
Mandalay, asked me to come and see him at the capital. He has
several times since sent me kind messages, but, as you know, my
4 Bur mah. IntcrricK 1 -idt/i the King.
work and absence in Calcutta and England left me no leisure to visit
the capital.
After the Bishop of Calcutta's visitation last year, the way seemed
open to establish Mission schools and stations along the Irrawaddy ;
and accordingly, in two Missionary journeys, schools were formed
at Zelloon, Henzadah, Myan Oung, and Thyet Myo.
At this time I received several letters from Captain E. B. Sladen,
the British political agent at the Court of the King of Burmah, telling
me of conversations which his Majesty had had with him on the
subject of Christianity, and his (Captain Sladen's) belief that a Mission
of our Church in Mand.alay would not only not be opposed, but would
(under GOD) effect much good. One of these letters I forwarded to
the Bishop of Calcutta, who directed me to proceed to Mandalay
with the twofold purpose of ministering to the English residents, and
endeavouring to pave the way for a Church Mission. I met in
Rangoon Mr. J. S. Manook, an Armenian Burman, who is the King's
Kulla Woon, or minister for foreigners. I told him of our wish to
have an S.P.G. Mission in Mandalay, and he promised to lay the
matter before the King. Shortly afterwards I received from him the
letter, a copy of which I sent you, in which he said his Majesty the
King of Burmah was pleased at our proposal to establish in Man-
dalay a Christian church and school for the benefit of his people,
that he would give every possible assistance, and entrust the children
of the officials to us for education. I showed this letter to the Chief
Commissioner, Colonel Fytche (in 1865 a member of your Standing
Committee), and I sent it to the Bishop. Both agreed that it was an
opening of which the Society ought to avail itself, and that I should
proceed to Mandalay, and there ascertain what could be done.
Colonel Fytche furnished me with a letter to the King. It was,
however, advised that I should not enter Mandalay until I had heard
of the return to that city of Captain Sladen, who had been appointed
to lead an exploring expedition to reopen the old trade route through
Burmah to Western China.
Whilst waiting to hear of Captain Sladen's return, I received from
the Governor-General in Council, on the application of Colonel
Eytche, through the Bishop, an appointment as visiting minister of
Henzadah, Myan Oung, Prome, &c.
Mr. Chard, of St. Augustine's College, having opportunely joined
our Mission, I was enabled to leave Rangoon on my pastoral and
Missionary tour. Accordingly I left on the 28th of August, accom-
panied by six of my best first-class boys from Rangoon.
We passed without stopping at Zelloon and Hen/.adah, and arrived
at MYAN OUNG late on Sunday evening, the 3oth. On the following
schools ^ a y ^ examined your Mission-school, which is under the
care of Moung Bah Glay, one of my pupils from Moul-
mein and Rangoon, whom I baptized at the latter place last year. I
had every reason to be pleased with the state of the school, helped
and fostered as it has been by the kind interest and liberality of the
Christian residents of the station. On the Wednesday evening we
i. Inti'rriw with tin" Kin^. 5
had divine service in the Court House, and there was a large atten-
dance. It was thought better that 1 should visit HKNZAJMH ; so on
the Saturday I left at eleven and arrived there at six. On Sunday I
held service in the Sessions Court in the morning, and in the evening
taught a large number of the Burmese boys. Our school there is
doing remarkably well. I left Henzadah on the Monday, and
arrived at three o'clock on Wednesday at MYAN OUNG. At half-
past five we had divine service attended by nearly all the Christians
at this happy little station. We left at three o'clock on the following
morning, and on Friday arrived at PKOME. On the Sunday we had
early morning service, with sermon and Holy Communion, in the
(Government school house. In the afternoon I gave religious in-
struction to my own and other Burmese boys, and in the evening we
again had service, with a very large congregation. I hope to be able
to build a church at Prome, shortly. The steamer came in on the
Monday, and I left at daylight on Tuesday, arriving at THYET MYO at
two o'clock. At the wharf I was met by our teacher, Arthur Moung
Tsway (who was baptized by Rev. C. A. Berry, from our Rangoon
school, in 1865), and twenty-seven of his pupils. I remained at
Thyet Myo from the i5th to 3oth of September, teaching our school
there, and endeavouring, by my Sunday help, to repay in some mea-
sure the kindness of the station chaplain, the Rev. J. R. Ward, who
has most energetically and successfully maintained our Mission-school
in efficiency. Whilst I dreaded to think of its finances, he had
managed, through the exceeding liberality of the good people of
Thyet Myo, not only to keep it solvent, but also to keep a balance in
hand.
We left Thyet Myo on the ist of October, in the steamer Lord
William Bentinck, which, with the flat Prome in tow, was crowded
with Burmese passengers. I need not detail all the incidents of our
voyage. I enjoyed it greatly, as I was going through a country
which I had not visited before, and the scenery was beautiful and
the weather pleasant.
We passed Ava and Amerapoora, and reached the capital city of
Mandalay on the 8th October, where we were most hospitably received
by Captain Sladen, who had but recently returned from his expedition.
On the following day the Kulla Woon came to tell me that the King
had been very impatient about my coming ; was very glad to hear of
my arrival, and would appoint an early day for an audience. On
Saturday I went out to see the city. It is large and well laid out,
the streets wide and at right angles, but the houses mean and
irregular. The city is inclosed by an embattled high brick wall,
with several imposing gateways. Both wall and gate appear to be
more for show than for use. The suburbs appear larger than the
city. A hill on the N.E. is completely covered with Buddhist
buildings and emblems. There are in Mandalay more than 20,000
yellow-robed Buddhist priests, iS;c. On Sunday we had English
senice at the Residency, but very few people attended, the notice
having been imperfectly circulated.
Bur malt. Interriav with the A'ing. 7
On Monday, October n, we had our first interview with the King
of Burmah. I went to the palace (which seems to occupy
about one eighth of the city, and is itself fortified by a
stockade all round) with Captain Sladen and the Kulla
Woon. The accompanying photographs will, better than any descrip-
tion which I can give, convey an idea of the King's palace. On
reaching the steps we all had to take off our shoes, and then walk a
considerable distance to the apartment in the garden where the King
was receiving. We entered the room, in which were very many
of the Burmese high officials and ministers seated on the floor. We
too seated, or rather squatted ourselves down. In a few minutes the
King came in attended by a little boy, one of his sons. The King
is a tall, stout, thoroughly Burmese-looking man, about fifty-five years
of age. He had on only one garment, the pulso or beautiful silk
cloth covering from his waist to his feet. He reclined on a velvet
carpet, near which the little prince placed the golden betel-box and
water-cup, and then reverentially retired. As the King entered every
Barman bowed his head to the ground and kept it there. His
Majesty, according to his usual custom, took up a pair of binocular
glasses, and had a good stare at us. He then asked if I was the
English Poongyee ? when did I arrive ? how old was I ? &c. &c. He
then asked me what requests I had to make to him, assuring me that
all were granted before 1 spoke. I said that I had four requests to
make : i. Permission to labour as a Missionary in Mandalay.
2. To build a church for Christian worship according to the use
of the Church of England. 3. To get a piece of land for a cemetery.
4. To build, with his Majesty's help, a Christian school for Burmese
boys. With regard to the first, the King said very courteously that
he welcomed me to the royal city : that he had impatiently awaited
my arrival, &c. &c. I was to choose, with Captain Sladen's advice,
a piece of land for a cemetery. That with regard to the church and
school his Majesty would build them entirely at his own cost. I told
him that the Bishop of Calcutta had most .liberally offered zoo/,
towards the church. The King replied, ' It is unnecessary, I will
do all myself.' He directed me to prepare the plans, adding that
the school was to be built for 1,000 boys. The King said that it
was his wish to place some of his own sons under our care, and he
sent for nine of the young princes, fine intelligent-looking lads of
about ten years of age, and formally handed them over to me. He
handed me a hundred gold pieces (worth 5o/.) to buy books, &c. for
the school. The King talked about his high regard for Captain
Sladen, whose word he could so implicitly trust ; of his desire to do
all the good in his power, and especially to be friendly with the
English. He asked me whether I would procure machinery for him
from Europe. I said that, with every desire to oblige his Majesty,
I must decline all commercial or political business; that my province
was simply that of a religious teacher. The King was evidently
pleased with my answer. The interview having lasted over two
hours, his Majesty concluded by inviting my boys and self to break-
Bur niah. Intenriew with the King, 9
fast in the palace on the following clay. He kindly accepted the
presents of beautifully bound books which the Calcutta Committee
had been good enough to forward to me for him.
Tuesday, i3///. Captain Sladen being too poorly to accompany
us, my five boys (Moung (lyee, Moung Hpo Too, Moung Bah Ohn,
Moung Tsan Hlah Oung, and Moung Hpo Ming) went with me to
the palace at nine o'clock. We travelled in covered bullock-carts,
as it is considered very wrong for a poongyee to ride on horseback.
We found the King in the Hman nan dor (or glass palace) attended
by several of his queens and daughters. My boys prostrated them-
selves, as did the other Burmans, whilst I squatted down in a cramped
position, being obliged to keep my feet out of sight. The
King was seated on the highest of a flight of six steps. uS^ieV
He began by asking if I was comfortably housed and
cared for. He reiterated his promises of yesterday, and expressed
his hope that all would not be in vain. He made me tell him about
each boy, and he addressed some kind words to them. I presented
him with a pretty telescope, and the boys gave a lot of English toys
to the young princes. In return the King gave two pussoes (silk
cloths) valued at 3/. to each boy. I also presented to the Queen,
through his Majesty, a box of beautiful needle and crotchet work
made and presented by the Burmese girls in Miss Cooke's school.
The King pulled out two or three pieces of work, but did not seem
to know much about them. He tossed them to the ladies behind
him, who evidently valued them highly. The King began to speak
to the boys about religion. He told them that they should not
lightly forsake their ancestors' creed. I interposed, when he laugh-
ingly said, 'Oh, Pone-dor-gyee' (high poongyee, the name he always
gives me) ' I and you will talk about these matters alone by ourselves. 3
I replied, that I should be delighted to converse with his Majesty
on those subjects which were of the highest moment to all mankind.
The King said that he only wanted to guard the boys against being
rash and foolish, or changing their religion to please men ; that he
was perfectly tolerant ; that he had never invited a Mussulman,
Hindoo, or Christian to become a Buddhist; but that he wished all
to worship according to their own way. He told me to make what
use I pleased of his steamers between Rangoon and Mandalay. and
to grant passages to and fro to any boys whom I might wish to send.
W r e were then conducted to another apartment, where a sumptuous
breakfast was served to us in English style. My boys and I sat down
to table, the Burman attendants wondering to see our lads freely
using knives and forks instead of the orthodox fingers in eating.
Suddenly my boys and all slipped off their chairs on to the ground,
and when I looked up to see the cause, I found that one of the elder
princes, a lad of about seventeen, had entered, having been deputed
by his father to see that all was right. More than thirty different
kinds of sweetmeats, all made by the Queen's own hands, were
offered to us. After breakfast we were conducted by one of the
woons or governors over the royal gardens, which are unlike what are
io Bunnah. Interview with the King.
generally known as gardens elsewhere. There were very few flowers,
but a number of shrubs and young trees, planted in no order as far
as I could discover. The place is neatly kept, and is divided into
two parts by a canal of stagnant water.
I went again to the palace by appointment, with my boys, yesterday
morning, to take the plans for the school and teacher's residence. I
send you a rough copy of the plan for the school ; that for the
teachers' houses is in the same style, but smaller. The King was in
the same part of the palace the Hman nan dor. He approved of the
MANDALAY. THE KINGS BARGE, OR WATER PALACE.
Flans for
building.
plan with one exception, viz. that the school must not have a triple
roof, such being only for princes and poongyees. My house is to be
so honoured. The King's minister for Public Works was called into
the presence, and ordered at once to commence the work, and to use
all expedition in its completion. The King gave me ioo/.
towards school furniture. I told him that I would pro-
cure a plan in Rangoon for the church. He repeated
that it would trouble him very much if no English poongyee came
to Mandalay. I assured him that his liberality would not so be
despised, but that I really would myself return and open the school.
After some further general conversation the King spoke to the boys,
and especially to one Arracanese boy whom I adopted in 1863. He
repeated what he had said before about not forgetting the religion of
his ancestors. I said that the boy's ancestors had not heard the
good news which I taught him. The King took no notice of what
Burmah. Interview with the King. 1 1
I said, but continued to the boy, ' Always remember the Yittanah
thon bah (the three objects of devotion), the Payah' (deity), Tayah'
(law), and Thingah (clergy).' I said, ' Christianity teaches us to
worship the everlasting GOD, to obey His law, and to receive instruc-
tion from the clergy.' The King seemed annoyed for a time, and
then repeated, in his usual good-humoured manner, ' I cannot talk
with you about religion in public ; we will talk about it privately on
your return.' He added, ' Do not think me an enemy to Toleratlon ^
your religion. If I had been I should not have called
you to my royal city. If when you have taught people they enter
into your belief, they have my full permission ;' and then, speaking
very earnestly, ' If my own sons, under your instruction, wish to
become Christians I will let them do so. I will not be angry with
them.' I could not help thinking at that moment of poor Judson
and his associates in 1823-24. What a wonderful change has come
over the land since that time ! May it not be that GOD is even now
answering the fervent prayer of those devoted men in-the time of their
greatest peril, ' O Lord, open the eyes of the King of Burmah?' He
was brought up as a priest or poongyee ; is learned and devout as a
Buddhist. But he has not yet found peace. He is now earnestly
seeking to acquire merit by the performance of good deeds. He has
asked me to be his almoner ; to send his bounty to my brother at
Ceylon (the sacred island of Buddhism), and to other places. The
Kulla Woon told the King that on the previous day (Sunday) he had
been present at our service, and had heard me pray for his Majesty
and the royal family. The King was much interested, and told me
that he had ninety children. I gave him a copy of our Prayer-book
in Burmese. He read aloud the ' Confession/ and then read two or
three pages silently. He said that he would study it attentively.
I have now told you, at greater length than I fear you will care to
read, the result of my mission to this country. I have now to ask
for help to carry out this work, whose commencement GOD has so
blessed. I return to British Burmah (D.V.) in about a week, on my
way to Rangoon, having to start three new schools viz. at Shway-
doung, near Prome : at Kyangyin, a town of 10,000
\r /~\ J 1 T i Hew schools.
people near Myan Oung ; and at Yandoon, a very large
town on the junction of the Panhline, or Panlang river, with the
Irrawaddy. I wish to be in Rangoon early in December so as to
liberate Mr. Warren, who goes up to Calcutta for ordination.
I have written to the Bishop of Calcutta to ask you to send out a
clergyman, ordained before he leaves England, who, after a brief stay
at Rangoon, would come up here and relieve me. His
salary here should be 3oo/. per annum (Rs. 250 per men- c gj T g?
sem) of which I believe the English Government would
pay Rs. 100 a month for his services to the English residents. With
the Bishop's permission, I shall come back here and commence work
as soon as Mr. Warren returns to Rangoon. But very earnestly do
I ask your help. A great door and effectual is opened unto iis, and
GOD in His providence has called us to work for Him. There will
be no expense except the Missionary's salary, and more than one-
third of that will be paid here.
The opening up of the old trade route to Western China via
Bhamo will give increased importance to Mandalay. Captain Sladen's
most successful expedition will doubtless produce great results, and
as these long dormant nations seem rising into new life and into con-
tact with the Western World, so let us avail ourselves of the opening
which GOD has made for us, and hold up the light of our Christianity
to those who have so long been enthralled in the gloom of Buddhism,
the religion which is ' without hope, without GOD in the world.'
The plan for our church I will try to procure in Rangoon or
Calcutta. It will be built of wood, but will, I hope, be a handsome
structure. I look for gifts. It may be that some of those kind friends
at home whom I met in 1865 may be inclined to help me in furnish-
ing our church for I can hardly allow the King to do more than
the building. For the altar and altar-cloths, communion-plate, font,
harmonium, &c, I must appeal to Christian liberality, and I hope
that I shall not ask in vain.
I have now only to apologize for this long letter, and most earnestly
again to urge this new Mission on your immediate attention."
Subscriptions or Donations to the General Fund of the SOCIETY
FOR THE PROPAGATION OF THE GOSPEL IN FOREIGN PARTS, or for
any particular Diocese or Mission, are received at the Society's Office,
5, Park Plate, St. James's Street, London, S. W.
LONDON : R. CLAY, SONS, AND TAYLOR, PRINTERS.
CALIF, LIBRARY* LOS
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