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A   VISIT 


TO 


SHEKWOOD   FOREST. 


1     A  VISIT 

TO 

SHERWOOD  FOREST, 


INCLUDING  THE 


nf  $etosteaft,  a&uffnrir,  $r  OTeHwfc; 
ANNESLEY,  THORESBY, 


AND 


HARDWICK  HALLS;  BOLSOVER  CASTLE, 


OTHER  INTERESTING  PLACES  IN  THE  LOCALITY. 


CRITICAL  ESSAY 
€>n  ttte  Eife  ana  Ctmeg  oC  tKoflin 


IL.UU8T- RAT-ED. 


LONDON; 

LONGMAN,  BROWN,  GREEN,  AND  LONGMANS  ; 

COLLINSON,  MANSFIELD ; 

ALLEN  ;    SHAW  AND  SONS,  NOTTINGHAM. 

1850. 


The  Copyright  of  this  work  is  protected  by 
Statute  5  &  6  Viet.  c.  45. 


PUBLISHER'S  PREFACE. 


A  series  of  bona  fide  letters  being-  placed  in  the 
hands  of  the  Publisher,  containing  (in  his  estimation), 
an  interesting  and  faithful  description  of  Mansfield 
and  the  neighbourhood,  with  historical,  statistical, 
and  other  information  of  some  rarity  and  value,  he 
thought  that  their  publication  in  a  cheap  form  with 
original  illustrative  drawings  might  not  prove  un- 
acceptable to  the  inhabitants  o/f  his*,  native  town, 

••:''2;«,:  ^t« 

to  whom  they  are,  in  this  little  volume,  "most  respect- 
fully dedicated. 

WEST  GATE,  MANSFIELD, 

1st  January,  1850.,         -X 


LETTER  I. 


MY  DEAR 


do  well  to  remind  me  that  I  have  not  yet 
supplied  you  with  my  promised  description  of  the  visit  I 
recently  made  to  that  most  ancient  of  all  the  Towns  on  the 
confines  of  the  forest  of  "  merrie  Shirewood,"  known  by  the 
name  of  Mansfield,  or  as  it  was,  centuries  ago,  more  quaintly 
termed,  "Mannysfeld  in  Shirewood  in  ye  County  of  Not- 
tingham." 

My  remembrances  of  this  place  and  its  neighbourhood  are  of 
the  pleasantest  kind  ;  and  you  will  not  wonder  if  you  consider 
the  character  of  the  district  to  which  I  was  introduced,  teem- 
ing as  it  does  with  wild  and  picturesque  scenery,  mouldering 
ruins  and  noble  remnants  of  the  grandeur  of  bye-gone  ages. 

I  was  not  idle,  my  friend,  for  as  I  wandered  over  the  classic 
locality  of  Sherwood's  once  mighty  forest,  and  was  led  on  from 
place  to  place  each  invested  with  the  charm  of  historic  associ- 
ation or  legendary  interest,  I  jotted  down  such  memoranda  as 
would  assist  in  my  promised  narrative. 


6 

Would  that  I  could  infuse  into  it  some  portion  of  the 
enthusiasm  with  which  I  pondered  over  the  time-hallowed 
scenes  around  me,  and  felt  in  imagination  carried  back  to  the 
days  of  our  first  Richards,  Henrys,  and  Edwards,  almost  fancy- 
ing that  I  could  hear  the  huntsman's  exciting  shout,  or  the 
boisterous  mirth  and  jovial  songs  of  those  heroes  of  our 
childhood,  "  bold  Robin  Hood  and  his  merrie  men !" 

Ah !  you  may  smile  at  these  foolish  fancies,  but  you  know 
they  are  themes  upon  which  I  love  to  dwell ;  for  whatever 
this  utilitarian  age  may  say  to  the  contrary  there  is  a  charm 
about  the  character  and  exploits  of  that  wonderful  Outlaw, 
and  in  the  customs  and  habits  of  our  Ancestors  when  under 
Norman  sway,  the  remembrance  of  which  is  well  calculated  to 
cause  a  thrill  of  delight  in  an  English  heart,  and  to  recall 
vividly  the  romantic  faith  and  impressions  of  our  boyhood. 

Before  taking  you  amid  the  more  interesting  scenes  of  the 
forest,  I  must  enter  upon  a  hasty  sketch  of  the  present  state 
and  early  history  of  the  town  of  Mansfield  itself,  which  is  now 
situate  on  the  border  and  was  formerly  in  the  very  bosom  of 
"  Shirewood,"  and  may  be  with  justice  termed  the  Capital  of 
that  Ancient  Royalty. 

It  is,  as  you  are  aware,  in  the  North  division  of  Notting- 
hamshire, and  one  part  of  its  extensive  parish  abuts  upon  the 
Scarsdale  Hundred  of  North  Derbyshire.  The  River  Man, 
or  Maun  (from  whence  it  derives  its  name)  flows  along  the 
Southern  and  Eastern  sides  of  the  town,  which  is  so  completely 
surrounded  by  a  beautiful  range  of  undulating  hills,  that 
approach  it  as  you  will,  it  has  an  air  of  coziness  and  comfort, 
calculated  to  create  a  very  favourable  impression  upon  the 
mind  of  a  stranger,  nor  is  this  impression  destroyed  by  enter- 
ing the  place,  which,  instead  of  being  as  I  once  remember  it, 


7 

a  dull,  dirty,  miserable  hole,  is  now  a  well  lighted,  well  paved, 
pleasing  little  town,  with  a  market-place  and  public  buildings, 
calculated  to  throw  those  of  more  important  towns  sadly  into  the 
shade.  Thanks  to  the  public  spirit  of  the  inhabitants,  and 
to  the  provisions  of  an  act  of  parliament,  passed,  I  think,  in 
1823,  called  the  Mansfield  Improvement  Act,  this  spacious 
and  elegant  market-place  is  now  looked  upon  by  its  noble 
own  hall,  savings  bank,  and  a  host  of  newly-erected  shops, 
where  once  stood  a  ponderous  mass  of  such  old  dilapidated  build- 
ings, as  would  have  disgraced  the  meanest  village. 

The  town  was  evidently  a  place  of  some  importance,  prior 
even  to  the  Norman  Conquest,  for  it  is  stated  to  have  been  a 
favourite  hunting  seat  of  the  Kings  of  Mercia,  be  this  as  it  may, 
it  is  quite  certain  that  Edward  the  Confessor  possessed  a  Manor 
here,  "  which  paid  Geld  or  Tax  for  three  Carucates*  or  six 
Bovates."f  "The  Land  being  nine  Plough  Lands."|  And 
it  is  also  certain  that  under  the  Conqueror  there  were  some 
nice  little  pickings  here,  to  wit,  "Two  Carucates  then  in 
"  demesne,  &c.  one  Mill,  one  Piscary,  and  a  Wood  two  miles 
"  long  and  two  miles  broad."  There  were  then  two  Churches, 
"  and  the  Towns  of  Schegby  and  Sutton  were  Hamlets  of  this 
"  great  Manor,  the  Soke§  whereof  extended  into  Warsop,  Clune, 
"  Carberton,  Clumber,  Buteby,  TuresLy,  Thorpe,  Scoteby, 
"Rounton,  Odenstow,  Grymeston,  Echering,  Raneby,  Bod- 
"  mescill,  &c.  It  had  likewise  Soke  in  Wardbeck  Wapentake." 

*  Carucate  (from  Carue  a  Plough)  a  Plough.  Land,  or  as  much  Land  as  may 
be  tilled  in  a  year  by  one  plough. 

f  Bovata  Terree.    As  much  Land  as  an  ox  can  till,  or  about  28  acres. 

J  Plough  Land  (ancient  Law  term)  a  certain  quantity  of  Arable  Land,  near 
a  hundred  acres. 

§  Soke.  (Saxon  Socnea.)  The  Territory  in  which  the  chief  Lord  exercised 
his  liberty  of  keeping  Courts  within  his  own  Territory  or  Jurisdiction. 


8 

In  35th  of  Edward  the  third,  say  A.  D.  1362,  Richard  d« 
la  Vache,  Kt.  is  called  Lord  of  Mansfield,  and  held  the 
Manor  from  the  King  during  life.  He  had  also  rent  of  Assize 
of  Freeholders  £\7.  13s.  4d.  and  two  Water  Mills  worth 
£8  yearly  in  the  Town,  one  in  Mansfield  Woodhouse,  and 
another  in  Sutton,  members  of  the  Manor  of  Mansfield. 

In  the  llth  of  Henry  the  sixth,  (1432).  "The  Jury  find 
"that  Alianora  the  Wife  of  Sir  Nicholas  Dagworth,  Knight, 
"  had  and  held,  the  day  on  which  she  died,  the  Manors  of 
"  Mansfield  and  Lyndeby,  in  Shirewood,  for  the  term  of  her 
"  life,  by  grant  of  Henry,  late  King  of  England,  Grandfather 
"of  the  present  King,  the  reversion  belonging  to  the  said 
"  King.  And  they  say  that  the  aforesaid  Manor  and  Lord- 
•'  ship  of  Mansfield  extend  themselves  into  the  divers  Towns  and 
"Hamlets  following,  to  wit,  "Mansfield,  Mansfield  Wood- 
"  house,  Sutton,  Warsop,  Scofton,  Neweton,  Budby,  Hokenall, 
"Clombre,  Nettleworth,  Rodmerthwayt,  Morhawe,  Le  Hill, 
"  Hotwayt,  and  Hayam  de  Fulwood." 

"  And  they  say  that  at  Mansfield  there  is  not  any  Manor 
"house  built,  but  there  is  there  a  site  and  that  ^£33  rent  is 
"  received  as  well  by  the  hands  of  divers  tenants  of  the  afore- 
"  said  Towns  and  Hamlets  as  for  other  rents  of  divers  tenants 
"  belonging  to  the  same  Manor.  And  that  there  are  within 
"the  precincts  of  the  same  Manor  divers  Woods,  to  wit, 
"  Lyndhurst,  and  Dalworth,  and  the  out  woods  thereof.  And 
"  there  are  there  three  mills,  and  there  is  a  Court  there  holden 
"  yearly,  from  three  weeks  to  three  weeks,  and  that  the  Leet 
"  or  view  of  Frankpledge  is  holden  there  twice  yearly,  and 
"  there  is  a  certain  Fair  there,  &c."  But  enough  of  these 
dry  details,  suffice  it  to  say,  that  the  Manor  which  is  Copy- 
hold and  of  the  Tenure  of  Gavelkind,  after  being  tossed  about 


9 

by  Royal  favor  from  one  Lord  to  another  (on  one  occasion 
given  by  Henry  the  eighth  to  Thomas,  Duke  of  Norfolk,  for 
his  great  victory  over  the  Scots  at  Flodden  Field)  ;  it  came 
by  descent  into  the  hands  of  the  present  noble  and  venerable 
owner  His  Grace  the  Duke  of  Portland. 

Several  of  the  Norman  Kings  used  to  frequent  this  place, 
in  consequence  no  doubt  of  the  facilities  it  afforded  them  for 
enjoying  the  sports  of  the  chase,  both  wolves  and  deer  being 
found  in  great  plenty  for  centuries  subsequent  to  the  Norman 
conquest.  In  consequence  of  these  repeated  Royal  visits  many 
privileges  were  granted  from  time  to  time  to  the  men  of 
Mansfield,  bearing  reference  chiefly  to  grants  of  fairs,  markets, 
and  most  important  rights  connected  with  the  forest  adjoining. 
King  John  built  a  palace  near  this  Town,  of  which  more  anon, 
and  it  is  a  singular  fact,  that  one  Gamelbere,  an  old  Saxon 
Knight,  was  allowed  by  William  the  Conqueror  to  retain  two 
Carucates  of  Land  at  Cuckney,  for  the  service  of  shoeing  the 
King's  palfrey  "as  oft  as  he  should  lie  at  Mansfield!"  And 
according  to  an  old  inquisition,  Sir  Henry  de  Faulconberge 
held  the  Manor  of  Cuckney  by  the  same  tenure. 

THE  CHURCH 

of  Mansfield  is  dedicated  to  St.  Peter,  or  as  some  authorities 
surmise  to  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul.  It  is  uncertain  when  it 
was  first  erected,  but  it  is  stated  to  have  been  nearly  destroyed 
by  fire  so  early  as  the  year  of  grace  1304,  and  was  shortly 
afterwards  restored  in  a  manner  worthy  of  that  period.  It  has 
however,  since  undergone  so  many  alterations  and  repairs  that 
in  the  present  structure  it  would  puzzle  you  to  detect  one 
solitary  specimen  of  the  original ;  the  lower  part  of  the  tower 
now  covered  with  stucco,  is  undoubtedly  the  oldest.  The 


10 

spire  is  ill  proportioned,  being  evidently  stunted  in  its  growth, 
two  hideous  modern  porches  protrude  on  the  South  side,  and 
with  windows  of  every  imaginable  size,  shape  and  style,  some 
with  mullions,  some  without,  you  have  a  "  tout  ensemble"  of 
ecclesiastical  architecture  now  happily  seldom  to  be  met  with. 
The  interior  has  once  been  good,  having  some  rather  pretty 
and  well  proportioned  specimens  of  the  lofty  pointed  arch,  but 
alas,  for  the  depraved  taste  of  the  last  century,  there  is  scarcely 
a  column  in  the  Sacred  Edifice  but  has  been  rudely  divested 
either  of  its  well  moulded  capital,  or  some  other  of  its  fair 
proportions,  in  order  to  make  room  for  a  lot  of  galleries,  or 
those  still  more  unsightly  religious  luxuries  called  pews  !  It 
contains  North  and  South  aisles,  with  a  spacious  nave  and 
chancel,  and  in  a  gallery  at  the  West  end,  stands  an  elegant 
and  tolerably  well  toned  organ,  which  was  purchased  by  sub- 
scription in  1755. 

There  were  formerly  ten  chantries  attached  to  this  church, 
the  Lands  whereof  were  given  by  Queen  Mary,  in  fee  to 
Christopher  Granger,  Clerk,  the  Vicar,  and  William  Wilde, 
and  John  Chambers,  the  Churchwardens  of  the  Parish,  by 
the  name  of  the  Governors  of  the  Lands  and  possessions  of 
the  Parish  Church  of  Mansfield,  (24th  February,  4th  and  5th 
Philip  and  Mary),  to  sustain  one  chaplain  or  priest. 

The  living,  a  Vicarage,  is  valued  in  the  King's  books  at 
£7.  7s.  6d.  present  value  (including  the  above  named  chap- 
laincy) about  £700  a  year,  now  and  for  many  years  past 
enjoyed  by  the  Rev.  Thomas  Leeson  Cursham,  D.  c.  L. 
Patron  The  Dean  of  Lincoln.  His  Grace  the  Duke  of  Port- 
land being  lay  Impropriator  and  Lessee  of  the  great  Tithes. 

Prior  to  the  Reformation,  the  windows  presented  some  fine 
specimens  of  stained  glass,  including  the  Armorial  bearings 


11 

of  the  Pierrepont's,  D'Arcey's,  Farrar's,  and  other  families  of 
distinction,  who  had  been  identified  with  the  town  as  benefac- 
tors or  residents,  but  alas,  the  destroying  hand  of  time,  or  the 
still  more  ruthless  one  of  puritanical  violence  has  swept  these 
memorials  away,  without  even  a  vestige  remaining. 

Neither  can  I  give  you  any  better  account  of  the  monuments, 
tablets,  and  crosses  which  you  would  naturally  look  for  in  a 
Church  of  such  Antiquity,  for  they,  if  ever  they  existed,  have 
shared  the  same  fate  as  the  windows,  save  and  except  that  hid 
behind  a  pew  in  the  South  aisle  lies  recumbent  a  stone  effigy, 
of  that  pious  and  charitable  benefactress  to  the  town,  Dame 
Cicely  Flogan,  who  nourished  in  the  days  of  Henry  the  eighth, 
and  who,  in  the  exuberance  of  her  kindness  left  '  inter  alia'  (as 
we  Lawyers  say)  an  Estate  to  the  Town,  subject  to  the  support 
of  a  Bull  and  a  Boar,  to  be  kept  for  the  gratuitous  use  of  the 
inhabitants  for  ever ! 

The  Cartwrights  of  Ossington,  from  whom  sprung  the  cele- 
brated politician,  Major  Cartwright,  formerly  considered  this 
their  family  burial  place,  and  here  repose  the  remains  of 
Captain,  or  as  he  was  more  generally  called  Labrador  Cart- 
wright,  brother  to  the  Major,  and  whose  habits  and  excentri- 
cities  are  frequently  the  theme  of  conversation  among  those  of 
the  "  old  standards,"  of  the  town  who  knew  him,  and  who 
still  remember  his  hawking  on  the  forest. 

THE  ROYAL  FREE  GRAMMAR  SCHOOL. 

On  the  South  side  of  the  Church  and  within  the  precincts 
of  the  Church  yard,  stands  the  Free  Grammar  School,  a  poor 
wretched  looking  edifice,  not  at  all  adequate  in  my  humble 
judgment  to  the  wants  of  a  town  of  ten  thousand  inhabitants, 
and  I  cannot  forbear  expressing  a  hope  en  passant  that  the 


12 

Trustees  will  ere  long  take  up  arms  against  the  sea  of  troubles 
which  encompasses  them,  and  out  of  the  splendid  endowment 
erect  a  School  and  School-house  commensurate  with  the 
Cf  spirit  of  the  age,"  and  worthy  in  every  respect  of  the  name 
and  intentions  of  its  noble  Founder,  the  "good  Queen  Bess." 

For  many  years  this  institution  was  of  little  or  no  advantage 
to  the  Inhabitants,  but  it  is  now  conducted  with  becoming 
energy  and  attention  by  the  two  Masters,  The  Rev.  A.  C. 
Row,  M.  A.,  and  Mr.  Espin. 

The  management  of  the  School  Estates  is  vested  in  the 
hands  of  the  Vicar  and  Churchwardens,  who,  as  before  stated, 
were  constituted  a  Corporate  body  for  possession  of  Church 
Lands  by  Philip  and  Mary,  and  were  also  singular  enough, 
again  constituted  a  Corporation  by  Elizabeth,  for  possession 
of  School  Lands,  both  these  Estates  have,  in  consequence  of 
mismanagement  and  ignorance,  become  so  intermixed  as  not 
to  be  distinguished,  consequently  only  one  Corporate  Seal  is 
now  used,  of  which  as  a  curiosity  I  send  you  a  pretty  wax 
impression. 


There  are  other  Schools  in  the  Town,  viz:  "Clerkson's 
Charity,"  founded  by  Faith  Clerkson,  in  1731,  for  the  clothing 
and  education  of  poor  boys  and  girls  belonging  to  the  parish. 


13 

This  charity  has  long  been  of  inestimable  benefit  to  the  poor, 
and  the  Trustees  are,  at  the  time  I  write,  erecting  a  spacious 
School-house  near  the  railway  station,  to  enable  them  still 
further  to  increase  the  utility  of  the  foundation. 

Thompson's  School  is  a  neat  unpretending  little  structure, 
situate  in  a  back  street  called  Toot-hill  Lane,  and  was  founded 
by  a  charitable  individual  of  that  name,  for  the  education  of 
poor  boys  and  girls. 

This  good  man  has  attained  considerable  celebrity  in  and 
near  Mansfield,  not  only  by  the  deeds  of  mercy  with  which  he 
adorned  the  latter  part  of  his  chequered  and  remarkable  life, 
but  also  from  the  singularity  of  directing  that  his  remains 
should  be  interred,  not  in  the  burial  place  of  his  family,  but 
beneath  the  wild  heather  of  his  native  forest !  His  reason  for  so 
singular  an  injunction  (which  was  fulfilled)  is  said  to  be  this. 
Being  one  of  the  survivors  of  the  disastrous  earthquake  at  Lis- 
bon, in  1755,  of  which  he  published  an  account  in  the  'Gen- 
tleman's Magazine'  of  that  date,  he  was  on  his  return  home, 
so  struck  with  the  similarity  of  the  situation  and  prospect  to 
that  of  the  hill  where  he  had  escaped  after  the  sudden  earth- 
quake, and  from  which  he  witnessed  the  succeeding  awful 
fire,  and  the  destruction  of  much  of  his  own  property,  that 
by  a  whimsical  fancy  he  resolved  to  be  here  buried. 

A  pleasant  morning's  walk  brought  me  within  the  hallowed 
precincts  of  "  Thompson's  Grave."  A  group  of  trees  encircled 
by  a  plain  stone  wall  denote  the  spot,  but 

**  No  sculptor's  art  exhausts  the  pomp  of  woe, 
Or  storied  urns  record  who  rest  below." 

The  prospect  from  this  interesting  spot  is  extremely  beautiful 
and  varied ;  with  a  back  ground  of  noble  oaks,  on  the  right 


14 

hand  and  before  you  the  wide  expanse  of  forest  wi£h  its  chang- 
ing carpet  of  brown  or  purple  heath  and  golden  crested  gorse 
stretches  itself  for  miles  at  the  feet,  bordered  in  the  distance  by 
the  more  highly  cultivated  rising  ground,  which  is  still  surmount- 
ed by  the  distant  hills  of  Yorkshire,  and  that  part  of  Lincolnshire 
where  stands  the  noblest  of  English  Minsters,  whilst  on  the 
other  side  may  be  seen  the  Churches  of  Sutton-in-Ashfield 
and  Kirkby,  and  the  lofty  turrets  of  Hardwick  Hall,  rising 
majestically  above  the  rich  woodland  seenery  with  which  they 
are  surrounded,  completing  a  landscape,  which  of  its  kind,  is, 
I  think,  unequalled. 

As  I  have  no  wish  to  fatigue  you  with  particulars  of  all  the 
charitable  institutions  of  the  town,  I  will  now  give  you 
a  brief  account  of  some  of  the  public  buildings.  To  begin 
then  with  the  recently  erected 

RAILWAY  STATION, 

It  stands  upon  a  portion  of  what  has  long  been  termed  the 
Portland  Wharf,  which  was  until  lately,  the  terminus  of  the 
Mansfield  and  Pinxton  Railway,  but  now  of  the  Nottingham 
and  Mansfield  Branch  of  the  Midland  Railway.  It  is  situate 
within  a  shorter  distance  of  the  market-place  than  any  station 
with  which  I  am  acquainted.  This  makes  the  inhabitants  the 
more  to  regret  that  their  turn  of  locomotive  accommodation  did 
not  arrive  in  the  high  and  palmy  days  of  railway  speculation, 
when  "thousands"  were  lavished  upon  all  kinds  of  cunning  and 
useless  devices  in  architecture.  Well,  indeed,  it  would  have 
been  had  the  company  on  all  occasions  exercised  the  same 
rigid  and  laudable  economy  which  has  directed  their  oper- 
ations here,  and  though  not  inclined  to  be  censorious,  it 
must  be  confessed  that  this  plain  brick  building  contrasts  by 


15 

no  means  harmoniously  with  the  strong  bold  fronts  of  stone 
around. 

The  passenger  platform  is  not  roofed  over,  but  being  rather 
elevated  above  the  neighbouring  land,  commands  a  view  of  a 
picturesque  though  not  extensive  landscape,  including  the 
High  Oakham  estate,  of  His  Grace  the  Duke  of  Portland, 
the  Barracks,  where  generally  repose  a  troop  from  Nottingham, 
and  an  undulating  graceful  range  of  hills  to  which  I  shall  have 
occasion  again  to  allude ;  and  in  the  centre  of  a  ploughed  field 
on  the  summit  of  this  range,  stands  the  ruin  of  a  square 
strong  building  celebrated  as  having  been  erected  by  a 
nervous  gentleman,  named  Elliott,  as  an  ark  of  safety  from  a 
virulent  fever,  which  in  the  last  century  raged  in  Mansfield. 
Scarcely  however  had  himself  and  family  removed  to  this  new 
residence,  when  they  fell  victims  to  the  destroying  hand,  from 
which  they  had  so  fearfully,  and  as  they  thought  securely 
fled*  The  habitation  has  since  been  known  by  the  appropri- 
ate name  of  the  "  Folly  House." 

To  the  right  as  you  enter  the  Station  stands  Broom 
House,  an  elegant  and  I  believe  well  managed  private  Asylum, 
or  Retreat,  as  it  is  more  generally  called.  Thomas  Wilson, 
Esq.  M.  D.  is  the  respected  superintendant. 


THE  TOWN  HALL 


may  be  considered  the  next 
building  of  interest,  and  it 
is  precisely  that  kind  of 
bold,  spacious,  and  noble 
building  of  which  almost 
any  moderate  sized  town 
would  have  just  cause  to 


16 

be  proud.  There  is  an  excellent  News-room  and  Library 
connected  with  it,  and  the  well  proportioned  front  contains 
one  of  the  best  Assembly  rooms  within  miles  of  the  place. 
From  a  neat  but  not  lofty  turret  shines  forth  the  illuminated 
fa$ade  of  a  public  Clock,  liberally  provided  by  the  company  of 
spirited  Shareholders,  who,  in  1836,  advanced  "the  needful'* 
for  the  erection  of  this  handsome  building,  and  the  adjoining 
Market-house,  but  who  by  the  bye  have  hitherto  received  a  very 
miserable  return  for  their  enterprise. 

The  Architect,  who  so  satisfactorily  justified  the  confidence 
of  his  employers,  was  Mr.  James  Nicholson,  of  Southwell, 
assisted,  I  believe,  by  his  son  Mr.  W.  Nicholson,  of  Lincoln. 

Almost  adjoining  the  Town  Hall  stands  a  very  pretty  little 
Savings  Bank,  well  adapted  to  the  wants  of  the  district,  and 
at  the  corner  of  West-gate  may  be  seen  the 

MOOT  HALL, 

with  its  handsome  pediment  of  Armorial  sculpture.  This  build- 
ing was  erected  in  1752,  by  the  Countess  of  Oxford,  then  Lady 
of  the  Manor,  and  maternal  ancestor  of  the  present  noble  Lord, 
the  Duke  of  Portland.  The  Armorial  bearings  before  named, 
are  her  Ladyship's  Arms,  who  built  it  at  her  own  expense,  as 
a  place  wherein  to  transact  the  business  of  the  Manor.  It  has 
long  also  been  used  for  the  nomination  and  belting,  as  the 
farmers  call  it,  of  "  Knights  of  the  Shire." 

The  Hall  was  originally  supported  upon  massive  stone 
columns,  the  space  being  left  open  for  the  use  of  the  market 
people,  but  it  was  many  years  ago  converted  into  a  shop  and 
private  residence. 


17 

THE  BENTINCK  MEMORIAL. 

From  the  funds    of   a    general  subscription,    is  now  in 

course  of  erection  in  the 
market-place,  to  the  me- 
mory of  the  lamented 
Lord  George  Bentinck. 
The  very  beautiful  de- 
sign is  by  Mr.  T.  C. 
Hine,  of  Nottingham, 
the  Architect,  and  the 
building  is  committed  to 
Mr.  Lindley  of  this  place. 
The  work  progresses 
well,  and  will,  when  fi- 
nished, be  an  exquisite 
structure  in  itself,  and  a 
fit  tribute  to  the  indomit- 
able courage  and  energetic 
eloquence  of  him  who 
stood  so  boldly  forward, 
and  so  ably  combatted 
what  he  deeply  felt  to  be 
changes  fraught  with  hazard  to  the  prosperity  of  his  country. 

"  'Twas  thine  own  genius  gave  the  final  blow, 
And  help'd  to  plant  the  wound  that  laid  thee  low : 
So  the  struck  eagle,  stretch'd  upon  the  plain, 
No  more  through  rolling  clouds  to  soar  again, 
View'd  his  own  feather  on  the  fatal  dart, 
And  wing'd  the  shaft  that  quivered  in  his  heart ; 
Keen  were  his  pangs,  hut  keener  far  to  feel, 
He  nursed  the  pinion  which  impell'd  the  steel ; 
While  the  same  plumage  that  had  warm'd  his  nest 
Drank  the  last  life-drop  of  his  bleeding  breast." 
B    3 


18 

The  natural  productions  of  Mansfield,  consist  of  two  kinds 
of  Stone  (red  and  white),  used  for  building  purposes,  and  held 
in  high  estimation  for  their  beauty  and  durability ;  an  excellent 
Limestone ;  a  Clay  suitable  for  making  the  coarser  kinds 
of  earthenware ;  and  a  singular  deposit  of  fine  micaceous 
Sand,  of  widely  known  value  to  iron  founders  for  producing 
the  finer  castings.  This  sand  is  found  in  one  of  the  hills  to 
which  I  directed  your  attention  from  the  railway  station  plat- 
form, and  the  quarry  is  worked  by  Mr.  Collinson. 

Connected  with  the  trade  or  commerce  of  the  town,  are  the 
various  and  extensive  Factories  stationed  at  intervals  along 
the  industrious  River  Man,  and  of  which  the  firm  of  Messrs. 
Richard  Greenhalgh  and  Sons  possess  three,  employing  nearly 
500  hands  in  doubling  cotton  yarns  for  the  lace  trade  of  Not- 
tingham, Buckingham,  Belgium  and  Calais,  as  well  as  for  the 
ribbon  manufacture  of  Coventry,  and  the  Orleans  and  Merino 
cloth  of  Bradford,  &c. 

The  number  of  spindles  in  these  three  mills  is  about  30,000. 
To  the  courtesy  of  one  of  the  partners  I  was  indebted  for  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  at  their  Field  Mill,  a  large  water  wheel  of 
40  feet  in  diameter,  weighing  70  tons,  which  with  the  con- 
ducting water  courses  at  two  different  levels,  cut  out  of  the 
hard  limestone  rock,  is  a  fine  specimen  of  engineering  skill 
and  enterprise,  and  was  completed  at  the  cost  of  .=£2,300. 

I  cannot  help  mentioning  to  the  honor  of  this  firm,  the 
praiseworthy  sympathy  they  manifest  for  the  whole  well-being 
and  social  improvement  of  their  work  people,  and  I  heartily 
wish  them  a  continuance  of  the  prosperity  they  so  well  deserve. 

The  Bleaching  and  Dyeing  grounds  of  Mr.  Perry;  the 
Steam  Saw  Mills  of  Mr.  Lindley  the  eminent  Builder ;  the 
extensive  Iron  Foundry  of  ^Messrs.  Midworth  and  Sons;  the 


19 

Sherwood  Foundry  of  Mr.  Wakefield,  and  that  of  Messrs. 
Kirkland ;  the  LaceManufactory  of  Mr.  Marsh,  are  all  estab- 
_  lishments  of  importance  and  interest. 

The  town  I  understand  is  also  much  engaged  in  the  manu- 
facture of  Silk  and  Cotton  Hosiery,  with  which  in  fact  it  has 
been  identified  from  a  very  early  period,  and  many  are  the  tales 
now  told  of  the  terrors  and  prevalence  of  that  system  of  Lud- 
dism  which  prevailed  to  such  a  fearful  extent  some  forty  years 
ago.  Previous  to  that  time  some  of  the  first  houses  in  the 
trade  "took  in"  at  Mansfield.  Mr.  Orton  is  now,  I  am  told, 
the  principal  hosier  in  the  place,  and  possesses  a  superior 
kind  of  machinery. 

I  give  you  a  list  of  the  few  eminent 

LITERARY  MEN 

whom  this  town  has  produced,  and  then  for  the  present 
farewell  Mansfield, — in  whose  grey  substantial  walls  I  have 
experienced  much  hospitality,  and  received  much  delight, 
and  of  which  I  shall  then  have  given,  with  all  humility, 
be  it  spoken,  perhaps  a  more  accurate  account,  though  short, 
than  any  I  could  refer  you  to,  yet  so  ample  are  the  materials  for  a 
work  of  no  little  value,  that  at  some  future  time  I  may  endea- 
vour, if  not  anticipated,  to  weave  them  into  a  Complete  History 
of  the  many  striking  and  interesting  events  connected  with  its 
past  and  present  existence,  and  in  such  an  undertaking  I  have 
the  promise  of  most  able  assistance. 

First,  is  William  de  Mannesfield,  a  Dominician  Friar, 
who,  in  the  13th  century,  was  held  in  considerable  repute 
for  his  learning. 

Next  we  have  Henry  Ridley,  M.  D.,  who  was  born  here  in 
1653,  and  is  celebrated  as  the  author  of  several  important 
medical  works. 


20 

Dr.  William  Chappel, — a  learned  prelate,  was  born  of 
poor  parents,  and  educated  partly  at  the  Grammar  School 
here,  and  partly  at  Christ's  College,  Cambridge,  of  which 
he  was  elected  fellow.  He  disputed  with  King  James 
when  that  pedantic  Monarch  visited  Oxford,  in  1624,  and  as 
may  reasonably  be  imagined  foiled  his  Majesty,  who  was  after- 
wards pleased  to  remark  that  "he  was  glad  that  the  Doctor 
was  his  subject  and  not  another's,  lest  he  should  lose  the 
Throne  as  well  as  the  Chair."  In  1638  he  «was  appointed 
Bishop  of  Cork,  but  the  Irish  puritans  persecuted  him  with 
great  severity  as  "  popishly  inclined,"  though  it  is  remarkable 
that  when  he  was  at  Cambridge  the  high  churchmen  took  him 
to  be  a  "puritan."  Having  left  Ireland,  he  died  at  Derby  in 
1649,  and  was  buried  at  the  village  of  Bilsthorpe,  near  Mans- 
field. The  year  before  his  death,  this  pious  divine  printed 
"  Methodus  Concionandi,"  which  was  translated  into  English 
soon  after.  He  is  supposed  by  many  to  have  been  the  Author 
of  that  celebrated  work  the  "  Whole  Duty  of  Man." 

Last  and  not  least  in  local  estimation,  comes  Robert 
Dodsley,  the  eminent  bookseller  and  author.  An  amiable 
and  accomplished  man,  whose  memory  will  ever  be  esteemed 
as  a  remarkable  example  of  genius,  springing  up  and  advancing 
to  usefulness  and  honour  amidst  unfavourable  circumstances. 
He  was  born  at  Mansfield,  in  the  year  1 703,  of  poor  parents, 
and  though  his  father  was  then  master  of  the  Grammar  School, 
he  does  not  appear  to  have  had  the  inclination  or  the  power 
to  give  his  son  a  liberal  education,  as  the  subject  of  this  short 
memoir  frequently  alluded  to  in  his  writings  and  in  after  life. 

He  was  apprenticed  to  a  stocking  weaver,  but  feeling  a  dis- 
like to  that  employment,  he  induced  his  master  to  cancel  his 
indentures,  and  succeeded,  after  some  adversities  in  obtaining 


21 

the  situation  of  footman  in  the  establishment  of  the  Honorable 
Mrs.  Lowther.  His  first  attempt  as  an  author  took  place 
during  the  time  he  was  in  this  lady's  service,  when  he  pub- 
lished by  subscription,  a  volume  of  Poems,  called  the  "  Muse 
in  Livery,"  which  although  perhaps  destitute  of  any  great 
merit,  served  to  attract  both  public  attention  and  favor. 

He  now  entered  the  service  of  Mr.  Dartineuf,  a  noted  volup- 
tuary, and  one  of  the  intimate  friends  of  Pope,  and  here  wrote 
an  elegant  little  Dramatic  Satire,  entitled  the  "  Toy  Shop," 
a  just  and  good  natured  rebuke  on  fashionable  absurdities. 
The  merits  of  this  performance  attracted  the  notice  of  Mr.  Pope, 
who  continued  from  that  time  to  be  his  warm  friend  and  zealous 
patron,  and  by  his  influence,  the  piece  was  performed  at 
Covent  Garden  Theatre,  in  the  year  1735,  with  very  great 
applause.  Dodsley  was  now  enabled  by  his  profits  as  an 
author  to  set  up  a  Bookseller's  shop  in  Pall  Mall,  where  the 
same  prudence  and  worth  which  gained  him  esteem  in  his 
former  condition,  now  secured  for  himself  and  his  establish- 
ment the  countenance  of  many  of  the  first  literary  persons  of 
the  day,  including  Pope,  Lyttleton,  Chesterfield,  Johnson,  and 
Glover,  and  also  many  persons  of  rank,  and  he  shortly  became 
of  very  high  standing  in  the  Metropolis.  Proceeding  at  the 
same  time  in  his  career  as  an  author,  he  wrote  the  Farce 
called  the  "  King  and  Miller  of  Mansfield,"  founded  on  an 
old  ballad,  and  referring  to  scenes  with  which  he  had  been 
familiar  in  his  early  life.  This  succeeded  so  well,  that  he 
produced  a  sequel  to  it,  entitled  "Sir  John  Cockle  at 
Court." 

In  1741,  he  brought  out  a  Musical  Piece,  called  "The 
Blind  Beggar  of  Bethnal  Green,"  and  in  1744,  animated  by 
a  spirit  of  adventure  uncommon  in  his  own  time,  he  published 


22 

a  collection  of  Plays,  by  old  authors,  in  twelve  volumes.  In 
1 745  he  tried  to  introduce  on  the  stage  a  new  species  of  Pan- 
tomime in  "  Rex  et  Pontifex." 

In  1748  appeared  a  loyal  Masque  in  honor  of  the  Peace  of 
Aix-la-Chapelle.  His  next  work  was  the  well  known  "  Econo- 
my of  Human  Life,"  in  which  the  social  duties  are  treated  in 
a  style  intended  to  resemble  the  scriptures  and  other  oriental 
writings. 

Another  of  the  more  valuable  works  projected  by  Dodsley 
was  the  "Preceptor,"  first  published  in  1749,  and  designed 
to  embrace  what  was  then  thought  a  complete  course  of 
education.  In  1758,  he  ventured  to  rise  to  tragedy  and 
composed  "Cleoue,"  which  although  spoken  unfavourably 
of  by  Garrick,  long  drew  full  audiences  at  Covent  Garden, 
and  was  highly  admired  by  Johnson.  Annexed  to  this  Tra- 
gedy is  an  Ode  entitled  "Melpomene;  or  the  Regions  of 
Terrour  and  Pity,"  A  selection  of  Fables,  in  prose,  accom- 
panied by  a  well  written  Essay  of  Fable,  was  one  of  his  latest 
productions.  Besides  the  above,  he  published  a  collection  of 
his  own  works  under  the  modest  title  of  "  Trifles,"  in  1  vol. 
8vo.  and  "  Public  Virtue,"  a  Poem,  in  4to.  also  a  "  Collection 
of  Poems  by  different  hands,"  in  6  vols.  12mo.  He  also 
had  the  discernment  to  see  the  merit,  and  usher  into  notice,  two 
works  of  certainly  rather  opposite  character;  "Tristram 
Shandy"  and  "  Young's  Night  Thoughts."  For  the  first,  a 
publisher  at  York,  to  whom  it  was  previously  offered  by 
Sterne,  refused  to  give  3630 ! 

Never  forgetting  the  place  of  his  birth,  he  thus  exclaims 
in  one  of  his  poems 

"  O  native  Sherwood !  happy  now  thy  bard, 
Might  these  his  rural  notes,  to  future  time, 


23 

Boast  of  tall  groves,  that  nodding  o'er  thy  plain 
Rose  to  their  tuneful  melody.    But  ah ! 
Beneath  the  feeble  efforts  of  a  muse 
Untutored  by  the  lore  of  Greece  or  Rome 
A  stranger  to  the  fair  Castalian  springs 
Whence  happier  poets  inspiration  draw, 
And  the  sweet  magic  of  persuasive  song, 
The  weak  presumption,  the  fond  hope  expires." 

After  a  life  spent  in  the  exercise  of  every  social  duty,  and 
retaining  the  love  and  admiration  of  men  of  the  brightest 
abilities  and  highest  rank,  he  fell  a  martyr  to  the  gout,  at  the 
house  of  his  friend  Mr.  Spence,  at  Durham,  and  was  interred 
in  the  abbey  church-yard,  where  his  tomb  is  thus  inscribed : 

If  you  have  any  respect 
for  uncommon  Industry  and  Merit, 

regard  this  place, 
in  which  are  deposited  the  Remains  of 

Mr.  ROBERT  DODSLET  : 

who,  as  an  Author,  raised  himself 

much  above  what  could  have  been  expected 

from  one  in  his  rank  of  life, 

and  without  a  learned  education ; 

and  who,  as  a  Man,  was  scarce 

exceeded  by  any  in  Integrity  of  Heart, 

and  Purity  of  Manners  and  Conversation. 

He  left  this  life  for  a  better,  Sept.  25,  1764, 

in  the  61st  year  of  his  age. 

If  this  is  but  a  barren  list  of  eminent  men,  it  may  be  well 
eked  oat  by  those  who,  for  the  value  of  their 

INVENTIONS 

ought  to  be  eminent,  but  who  have  suffered  the  too  common 
fate  of  genius,  in  seeing  others  of  more  plodding  habits  make 


24 

splendid  fortunes  upon  the  foundation   of  their  discoveries, 
while  themselves  sink  into  comparative  obscurity. 

The  Circular  Saw  was  invented  here,  by  Joseph  Murray, 
who  worked  as  a  wood  and  iron  turner,  at  the  the  rock  valley 
mills,  under  the  late  Mr.  John  Brown.  The  very  first  that  was 
produced  of  this  now  important  instrument  is  in  possession  of  an 
intelligent  old  man,  who  keeps  it  as  a  choice  curiosity.  It  is 
made  out  of  plain  iron  plate,  measures  four  inches  in  diameter, 
and  dates  as  near  "  sixty  years  since"  as  makes  no  , matter. 

This  same  Murray  was  son  of  the  old  servant  of  that  name 
who  lived  at  Newstead  abbey  for  many  years,  and  who,  at 
length,  became  the  faithful  and  favourite  "  old  Joe  Murray" 
of  Lord  Byron. 

It  is  a  singular  fact,  that  a  fellow  workman  of  Murray's, 
named  Joseph  Tootel,  was  the  inventor  of  the  fluted  or  grooved 
Rollers  used  in  cotton  spinning,  and  now  known  by  the  name 
of  "stretchers." 

Two  other  inventions  of  great  consequence  to  the  cotton 
trade  were  made  by  the  late  John  Green,  a  native,  and  respect- 
able ironmonger  of  Mansfield.  These  are  the  Inclined  Plane 
movement  of  the  spindle,  and  the  Cone  movement ;  both  used 
in  the  process  of  spinning,  and  neither  of  which  have,  I  be- 
lieve, even  in  this  ingenious  day,  been  superseded. 


LETTER  IT. 


NEWSTEAD  ABBEY. 

)Y  former  letter  having  been  rather  more  prolix  than 
you  may  think  the  merits  of  its  subject  deserved,  I  will  en- 
deavor to  make  amends  by  now  leaving  the  comparatively 
insipid  records  of  a  market  town,  for  the  consideration  of  one 
of  the  most  interesting  places  in  the  kingdom,  whether  regard- 
ed as  the  ancestral  and  fondly  loved  domain  of  a  mighty 
poet ;  immortalized  by  his  repeated  and  ardent  apostrophes  in 
its  praise  and  to  its  memory;  or  from  being  in  itself,  in 
the  words  of  Washington  Irving,  "  one  of  the  finest  specimens 
in  existence  of  those  quaint  and  romantic  piles,  half  castle  half 
convent,  which  remain  as  monuments  of  the  olden  times  of 
England.  It  stands  too  in  the  midst  of  a  legendary  neigh- 
bourhood, being  in  the  heart  of  Sherwood  forest,  and  surround- 
ed by  the  haunts  of  Robin  Hood  and  his  band  of  outlaws,  so 
famous  in  ancient  ballad  and  nursery  tale !" 

It  was  a  fine  autumnal  morning,  that  I  sallied  from  my  pleas- 
ant quarters  at  Mansfield,  upon  this  long  anticipated  pilgrimage, 
and  after  a  walk  for  about  four  miles  upon  the  Nottingham 


26 

turnpike  road,  mostly  bounded  by  extensive  woods,  occasionally 
relieved  by  heathery  glades,  and  patches  of  cultivation,  and 
passing  within  a  few  score  yards  a  place  of  no  less  celebrity 
than  Fountain  Dale,  once  abode  of  the  "Saint  militant" 
Friar  Tuck,*  I  arrived  at  an  inn  called  "The  Hut"  lately 
rebuilt  in  old  English  style,  and  which  stands  by  the  road  side 
but  a  few  yards  from  the  entrance  to  Newstead  park,  "for 
the  accomodation  of  the  numerous  parties  who  arrive  to  visit 
the  abbey. 

Immediately  in  front  of  the  park  gates,  stands  a  magnificent 
oak  tree,  a  remnant  of  the  old  forest,  and  which  was 
preserved  from  destruction  by  the  liberality  and  good  taste 
of  several  gentlemen  of  Mansfield,  who  purchased  it  of  the 
poet's  grand  uncle  and  immediate  predecessor,  William, 
fifth,  or  as  he  is  called  "  the  wicked"  Lord  Byron,  in  order 
to  prevent  it  sharing  the  fate  which  he,  from  pecuniary  or  too 
probably  malignant  motives,  ruthlessly  dealt  out  to  hundreds 
of  its  noble  and  majestic  brethren.  The  growth  of  this  tree, 
as  if  conscious  of  its  importance,  has  been  so  supremely  beau- 
tiful both  as  regards  shape,  and  the  extent  of  its  spreading 
branches,  that  it  cannot  fail  to  call  forth  admiration. 

Leaving  the  hut  and  turnpike  road,  the  way  lead  through 
the  wilder  portion  of  the  park  for  about  a  mile  when,  as  though 
by  enchantment,  a  most  glorious  scene  burst  upon  the  view !  On 
the  right  hand  lay  a  splendid  sheet  of  water,  fringed  with 
young  woods  that  bow  their  whispering  homage  o'er  the 
margin, 

"  Her  great  bright  eye  all  silently 
Up  to  the  sky  was  cast," 

reflecting  all  the  depth  and  brightness  of  the  tranquil  heav- 

*  See  Appendix. 


27 

ens ;  aquatic  wild  birds  studded  the  silvery  surface,  as  though 
they  had  a  "vested  interest"  in  the  place,  and  possessed 
a  "protection  order"  against  all  molestation!  A  romantic 
waterfall  and  the  ruins  of  a  rustic  mill,  together  with  the  gentle 
murmuring  of  the  foaming  falls  added  to  the  richly  wooded 
country  around,  served  to  complete  a  picture  upon  which  me- 
mory, so  long  as  "  she  holds  her  seat,"  will  love  to  dwell. 

Turning  to  the  left,  the  venerable  abbey  rises  in  solemn 
grandeur,  the  long  and  lovely  ivy  clinging  fondly  to  the  rich 
tracery  of  a  former  age.  You  in  whom  the  poetic  tempera- 
ment is  strong,  would,  I  know,  pardon  any  expressions  of 
enthusiasm  that  I  might  indulge  in,  but  such  feelings  have 
been  so  often  and  so  well  "  done,"  that  I  leave  you  only  to 
conceive  what  every  man  must  feel  as  he  gazes  for  the  first 
time  upon  these  walls,  and  remembers  that  it  was  here,  even 
amid  the  comparative  ruins  of  a  building  once  dedicated  to 
the  sacred  cause  of  religion  and  her  twin  sister  charity,  that 
the  genius  of  Byron  was  first  developed.  Here,  that  he  paced 
with  youthful  melancholy  the  halls  of  his  illustrious  ancestors, 
and  trod  the  sombre  walks  of  the  long  banished  monks. — 
Feeling  as  he  expressed 

"  Xewstead !  fast  falling,  once  resplendent  dome ! 
Religious  shrine !  repentant  Henry's*  pride ! 
Of  Warriors,  Monks,  and  Danes,  the  cloistered  tomb 
Whose  pensive  shades  around  thy  ruins  glide. 
Hail  to  thy  pile  !  more  honor'd  in  the  fall 
Than  modern  mansions  in  their  pillar'd  state ; 
Proudly  majestic  frowns  thy  vaulted  hall 
Scowling  defiance  on  the  blasts  of  fate." 


*  Henry  the  second  founded  Newstead  immediately  after  the  murder  of 
Thomas  a  Bec"ket. 


28 

Newstead  abbey  was  founded,  by  Henry  the  second,  in  or 
about  the  year  1170,  as  a  priory  of  Black  Canons,  an  order, 
having  for  their  tutelary  Patron  St.  Augustine,  and  professing 
great  austerity  of  life  and  practice.  It  was  dedicated  to  the 
Virgin  Mary,  and  there  is  still  situate  in  a  conspicuous  niche  of 
the  chapel  ruins,  a  sculptured  Virgin  and  Child,  which  with  many 
other  specimens  of  early  English  sculpture  is  still  in  a  beautiful 
state  of  preservation.  It  continued  to  be  a  priory  of  some 
importance  until  the  time  of  Henry  the  eighth,  who,  in  his  zeal 
for  the  temporal  welfare  of  himself,  and  to  the  consternation  of 
the  then  'religious  world,'  set  about  the  wholesale  destruction 
of  the  monastic  institutions  of  the  country.  Newstead,  whose 
revenues  were  then  valued  at  £2 19.  18s.  8d.  was  too  choice 
a  morsel  to  be  overlooked,  and  it  consequently  fell  a  victim  to 
the  Monarch's  cupidity  and  sacrilege,  and  those  venerable  doors 
which  had  for  centuries  been  open  for  the  reception  of  the 
poor,  the  sick,  and  the  way  worn,  became  closed  to  their 
prayers  and  cries. 

Being  granted  by  the  same  Royal  favor  to  Sir  John  Byron, 
who,  at  that  time,  held  the  distinguished  and  important  ap- 
pointment of  lieutenant  of  the  forest  of  Sherwood,  it  was 
most  likely  held  by  him  as  an  official  residence,  at  all  events 
he  converted  it  into  one  of  more  than  ordinary  splendour. 
During  the  troubles  which  marked  the  history  of  the  great 
rebellion,  which  ended  in  the  martyrdom  of  the  unfortunate 
and  pious  King  Charles  the  first,  the  Byrons  distinguished 
themselves  as  warm  adherents  of  royalty,  and  Newstead 
bravely  sustained  a  siege  from  the  parliamentarians,  thus  as 
Lord  Byron  sings 

"  The  abbey  once,  a  regal  fortress  now 
Encircled  by  insulting  rebel  powers ; 


29 

War's  dread  machines  o'erhang  thy  threatning  brow 
And  dart  destruction  in  sulphureous  showers." 

The  "  roundheads"  were  not  the  men  either  to  forgive  or 
forget,  and  therefore  on  the  death  of  Charles,  the  Byron  estates, 
including  Newstead,  were  placed  under  sequestration,  in  com- 
pany with  a  host  of  other  delinquent's  estates. 

During  the  civil  war,  in  1643,  Charles  the  first  marked  his 
high  sense  of  Sir1  John  Byron's  loyalty  and  devotion,  by  rais- 
ing him  to  the  peerage,  and  immediately  after  the  restoration, 
Charles  the  second  restored  the  sequestrated  estates  to  their 
former  owner,  from  whom  they  passed  hy  descent  to  the  late 
Lord  Byron,  who  sold  the  abbey  and  estate  (consisting  of 
nearly  4000  acres)  in  1815,  to  T.  Clawton,  Esq.  for^!40,000, 
who  was  unable  to  make  good  the  purchase. 

The  present  esteemed  owner,  Colonel  Wildman  purchased 
them  in  1818  of  Lord  Byron,  for  about  £1 00,000,  and  has  since 
hy  his  judicious  alterations  and  improvements,  proved  him- 
self a  most  worthy  owner  of  a  place  at  once  the  pride  of  the 
forest,  and  the  admiration  of  thousands  who  have,  by  his 
courtesy,  been  permitted  to  traverse  its  spacious  galleries  and 
venerable  halls. 

Not  only  has  the  gallant  Colonel  laid  out  immense  sums  in 
its  restoration  and  adornment,  and  the  increase  of  its  orna- 
mental grounds,  but  he  has  rebuilt  nearly  every  farm  house 
upon  the  estate. 

At  one  time  the  park  was  of  immense  extent,  containing  no 
less  than  2700  head  of  deer,  who  could  browse  in  uninterrupt- 
ed seclusion  beneath  the  shades  of  the  broad  spreading  oaks, 
for  which  this  part  of  the  forest  was  renowned.,  but  the 
hand  which  destroyed  the  noble  timber  of  the  estate,  was 

influenced  also  by  the  same  motives  to  deal  death  and  des- 
c  3 


30 

traction  amongst  these  graceful  creatures,  and  that  to  such 
an  extent,  that  the  carcases  were  for  a  length  of  time  exposed 
for  sale  in  Mansfield  market  as  commonly  and  at  as  cheap  a 
rate  as  forest  mutton,  until  the  whole  of  the  noble  herd  was 
literally  exterminated. 

The  upper  lake  is  formed  by  obstructing  the  waters  of  a 
small  river  Leen,  a  work  probably  of  almost  equal  antiquity 
with  the  abbey  itself.  It  was  the  old  mill  dam  of  the  Monks 
by  which  their  corn  mill  was  worked,  and  it  possesses  as 
many  traditions  and  fables  as  every  other  part  of  this  romance 
haunted  valley. 

These  chiefly  relate  to  the  treasures  which  are  supposed  to 
lie  in  its  depths,  and  to  the  pranks  of  the  "wicked"  old  Lord, 
who,  by  the  way,  built  the  mimic  fortifications  on  each  side, 
a  poor  compensation  for  the  destruction  of  the  ancient  timber 
which  then  surrounded  it.  The  present  rising  woods  were  in 
excellent  taste,  planted  by  the  late  Lord  Byron. 

A  large  brazen  eagle  and  pedestal  of  antique  workmanship, 
was  some  years  ago  fished  up  from  the  bottom  of  the  lake,  and 
which  on  being  cleaned,  was  found  to  contain  in  the  hollow 
pedestal  a  number  of  parchment  deeds  and  grants,  bearing  the 
seals  of  Edward  the  third,  and  Henry  the  eighth,  which  had, 
no  doubt,  been  thus  sunk  by  the  Friars,  for  safety  in  some 
perilous  time. 

One  of  the  deeds  thus  discovered,  with  the  great  Seal  of 
England  attached,  is  erroneously  described  by  Washington 
Irving  as  an  "  indulgence,"  or  plenary  pardon,  for  all  crimes 
the  friars  might  choose  to  commit,  &c.  when  in  fact, 
it  has  nothing  whatever  of  this  character,  and  did  not  emanate 
from  the  Pope  or  Church  of  Rome  at  all ;  but,  when  Henry 
the  fifth  required  money  for  the  prosecution  of  his  wars  in 


31 

France,  Chicheley,  then  Archbishop  of  Canterbury  agreed  to 
find  it,  by  making  all  the  monasteries  and  religious  houses  which 
had  been  impeached  in  the  previous  reign  before  the  council 
at  Oxford,  purchase  (according  to  their  means)  a  General 
Pardon.  The  document  in  question  is  one  of  these  pardons. 

The  whole  are  carefully  treasured  by  Colonel  Wildman, 
and  the  eagle  has  been  transferred  to  Southwell  minster, 
where  in  the  chancel  it  fulfils  the  slightly  diverted  purpose  of 
being  used  as  a  lectern,  or  stand  for  a  folio  bible,  instead 
of  supporting  its  former  burden  the  missal. 

Before  visiting  the  interior  of  the  abbey,  it  is  well  to  enjoy 
a  walk  through  the  pretty  grounds,  which  have  during  the 
past  few  years  been  tastefully  arranged  and  enlarged  by  Colonel 
Wildman.  A  gently  winding  path  which  commands  a  fine 
view  of  the  lower  lake,  leads  to  an  aviary,  in  which  are 
some  beautiful  specimens  of  the  gold  and  silver  pheasant,  and 
after  passing  a  rusticated  Swiss  cottage  on  the  way  to  the 
kitchen  gardens,  my  guide,  the  intelligent  old  gardener,  with 
his  well  known  civility,  invited  me  into  his  own  dwelling  to 
exhibit,  if  not  the  identical  mysterious  and  inexhaustible  bottle, 
shewn  to  her  Majesty  at  Balmoral,  yet  one  quite  as  interesting 
and  hitherto  as  inexhaustible,  viz  :  a  bottle  of  port  wine,  which 
belonged  to  a  former  Lord  Byron,  and  now  more  than  a  hun- 
dred years  of  age !  of  course  the  crust  and  colour  too  have 
almost  disappeared.  Having  passed  through  the  kitchen 
gardens,  which  are  well  laid  out  and  ornamented  with  neat 
fountains,  I  was  next  attracted  by  a  dismal  looking  pond, 
enshrouded  by  some  aged  and  venerable  yews,  probably  as 
ancient  as  the  very  abbey  itself,  and  beneath  the  shade  of 
whose  "  melancholy  boughs,"  the  early  occupants  have,  doubt- 
less, oft  reclined.  At  the  head  of  this  pond  is  a  cold  crystal 


32 

spring,  which  though  I  suppose,  if  these  holy  men  are  not 
much  libelled,  must  have  afforded  the  monks  more  pure  water 
than  they  required,  was  certainly  much  esteemed  and  used  by 
Lord  Byron. 

The  dark  woods  in  which  are  two  leaden  statues  of  Pan  and 
a  female  Satyr,  very  fine  specimens  as  works  of  art,  are  next 
worthy  of  attention,  chiefly  because  a  tree  is  shewn  whereon 
Byron  once  carved  his  own  name  and  that  of  his  sister,  with  the 
date,  all  of  which  are  still  legible.  Lest  this  interesting  speci- 
men of  his  Lordship's  "  hours  of  idleness"  should  fall  a  victim 
to  that  love  of  destruction  to  which  we  English  are  prone,  the 
Colonel  has  very  properly  ordered  that  no  one  shall  be  allowed 
to  go  near  the  place  without  a  guide.  The  very  current  story 
of  a  lady  (?)  having  cut  out  and  carried  away  one  or  two  letters 
of  the  name  is  pure  fiction. 

These  woods  were  planted  by  the  "  wicked  Lord  Byron" 
before  his  fatal  duel  with  Mr.  Chaworth,  and  before  the  in- 
dulgence of  his  wayward  passions  had  brought  him  to  the 
condition  of  a  solitary,  morose  and  savage  misanthrope. 

The  statues  used  to  be  called  by  the  country  people  the  old 
Lord's  devils,  and  the  wood  in  which  they  stand  the  Devil's' 
wood. 

After  crossing  an  interesting  and  picturesque  part  of  the 
gardens  I  arrived  within  the  precincts  of  the  ancient  chapel, 
near  to  which  stands  the  neat  marble  monument,  raised  by 
Lord  Byron,  to  denote  the  last  resting  place  of  his  favourite 
dog,  whose  death  he  thus  announced  to  his  friend  Hodgson. 

"  Boatswain  is  dead!  he  died  in  a  state  of  madness  on  the 
1 8th,  after  suffering  much,  yet  retaining  all  the  gentleness  of 
his  nature  to  the  last,  never  attempting  to  do  the  least  injury 
to  any  one  near  him." 


33 

You  are  aware  that  it  was  upon  the  death  of  this  favourite 
dog  that  the  exquisite  lines  beginning 

"  When  some  proud  son  of  man  returns  to  earth, 
Unknown  to  glory,  but  upheld  by  birth,"  &c. 

were    written,    in   addition  to    this  epitaph,  the    monument 
bears  the  following  inscription  : 

"  Near  this  spot 

are  deposited  the  remains  of  one 

who  possessed  beauty  without  vanity, 

strength  without  insolence, 

courage  without  ferocity, 

and  all  the  virtues  of  man  without  his  vices. 

This  praise,  which  would  be  unmeaning  flattery, 

if  inscribed  over  human  ashes 
Is  but  a  just  tribute  to  the  memory  of 

BOATSWAIN,  a  dog, 

who  was  born  at  Newfoundland,  May,  1803, 
and  died  at  Newstead  abbey,  November  18, 1808." 

By  a  will  which  his  Lordship  executed  in  1811,  he  direct- 
ed that  his  own  body  should  be  buried  in  a  vault  in  the  garden, 
near  his  faithful  dog.  This  feeling  of  affection  to  his  dumb 
and  faithful  follower,  commendable  in  itself,  seems  here  to 
have  been  carried  beyond  the  bounds  of  reason  and  propriety. 

The  next  point  of  attraction  in  these  gardens  is  the 
oak  tree  which  the  poet  himself  planted.  It  has  now  attained 
a  goodly  size,  considering  the  slow  growth  of  the  oak,  and  bids 
fair  to  become  a  lasting  memento  of  the  noble  bard,  and  to  be 
a  shrine  to  which  thousands  of  pilgrims  will  resort  in  future 
ages  to  do  homage  to  his  mighty  genius.  He  planted  it  on 
his  first  arrival  at  Newstead,  in  1798,  and  ever  after  displayed 
•  the  greatest  regard  for  its  prosperity,  actuated,  it  is  said,  by 


34 

an  impression  or  fancy,  that  as  the  tree  flourished  so  should 
he,  "as  it  fares,"  said  he,  "so  will  fare  my  fortunes." 
When  he  again  visited  the  abbey  in  1807,  he  found  his 
pet  tree  choked  up  with  weeds  and  almost  destroyed,  which 
circumstance  called  forth  those  charming  lines 

"  Young  oak,  when  I  planted  thee  deep  in  the  ground, 
I  hoped  that  thy  days  would  be  longer  than  mine ; 
That  thy  dark  waving  branches  would  nourish  around 
And  ivy  thy  trunk  with  its  mantle  entwine,"  &c. 

In  a  note  to  Murray's  edition  of  his  works,  it  is  stated  that 
shortly  after  Colonel  Wildman  took  possession,  he  one  day  no- 
ticed this  tree,  and  said  to  the  servant  who  was  with  him,  "  here 
is  a  fine  young  oak  but  it  must  be  cut  down,  as  it  grows  in  an 
improper  place"  "I  hope  not,  sir,"  replied  the  man,  "for  it  is 
the  one  that  my  Lord  was  so  fond  of,  because  he  set  it  him- 
self." Since  that  time  the  Colonel  and  all  around  have  taken 
every  possible  care  of  it,  and  strangers  inquire  for  it  as  the 
"  Byron  oak,"  so  that  it  promises  to  share  in  after  times  the 
celebrity  of  Shakspeare's  mulberry,  and  Pope's  willow. 

Return  we  now  to  the  abbey  and  consider 

THE  INTERIOR. 

"  Full  of  long-sounding  corridors  it  was, 

That  over-vaulted  grateful  gloom, 
Thro'  which  the  live-long  day  my  sonl  did  pass, 
Well-pleased,  from  room  to  room." 

THE  ENTRANCE  HALL 

Is  approached  by  a  gothic  porch,  the  door  being  ornamented  by  a  massive 
bronze  knocker,  of  antique  and  elaborate  design.  This  room  has  a  low  groined 
coiling,  and  contains  a  Canadian  canoe  and  two  plain  Egyptian  granite  pedes- 
tals. Next  comes 


35 
THE  MONK'S  PARLOR,  OR  RECEPTION  ROOM 

In  which  is  deposited  the  Visitors'  book,  containing  an  interesting  collec- 
tion of  the  autographs  of  the  parties  who  have  visited  the  abbey,  for  several 
years  past. 

The  windows  in  this  room  are  prettily  stained,  one  representing  a  vener- 
able figure,  probably  St.  Paul,  surmounted  by  a  cross. 

Ascending  a  narrow  stone  staircase,  you  are  next  shewn 

LORD  BYRON'S  BED  ROOM 

AYhich  is  now  carefully  kept  in  the  same  state  as  it  was  when  occupied  by 
his  Lordship.  This  room  commands  a  splendid  view  of  the  lake.  The  posts 
of  the  bedstead  are  gilt,  and  the  walls  are  adorned  with  a  portrait  of  Charles 
James  Fox,  and  several  views  of  Cambridge,  and  in  the  dressing  room  ad- 
joining, is  a  portrait  of  "  old  Joe  Murray,"  pipe  in  hand,  taken  at  the  desire 
of  his  indulgent  master.  Immediately  adjoining,  is 

THE  HAUNTED  CHAMBER 

A  dismal  room,  where  'tis  said  the  spirit  of  a  restless  Monk  still  at  times 
intrudes  his  ghostly  presence !  During  Lord  Byron's  time,  was  occupied  by 
his  page.     The  bedstead  is  a  specimen  of  good  carving.     You  now  enter 
THE  LIBRARY 

On  one  side  of  which  hang  four  portraits,  by  Sir  Peter  Lely,  viz : — The 
Countess  of  Rutland,  Nell  Gwynne,  Mrs.  Hughes,  and  The  Earl  of  Rutland. 
There  is  a  portrait  of  Sir  John  Byron,  sometimes  called  Longbeard,  the  first 
lay  owner  of  Newstead.  Two  portraits  of  Colonel  Wildman  and  Geo.  Wild- 
man,  Esq.  by  Lonsdale. 

There  is  also  a  curious  bell,  found  in  a  Budhist  temple,  at  Ningpo,  and 
presented  to  the  Colonel,  by  his  friend  Captain  Goldsmith,  R.  N.  It  is  un- 
doubtedly of  great  age  and  of  very  massive  and  curious  design. 

The  light  and  dark  oak  panelling  in  this  room  has  a  pleasing  effect.  The 
three  stained  windows  looking  from  the  library  into  the  cloisters,  are  some 
of  the  ancient  abbey  windows,  and  are  carefully  protected  from  injury  by 
plate  glass.  The  marble  mantel  piece  with  its  wreaths  of  grapes,  and  the 
antique  chairs  are  very  pretty.  From  the  library  you  pass  into 
THE  EASTERN  CORRIDOR 

By  a  doorway  surmounted  by  a  beautiful  specimen  of  carving,  representing 
an  elephant  and  warriors,  with  the  Austrian  eagle.  A  curious  and  antique 
ebony  couch,  and  several  beautiful  King  Charles'  chairs,  surmounted  by  the 
royal  crown,  stand  in  this  corridor,  from  which  you  ascend  by  a  few  steps 
into  the 


36 
TAPESTRY  BED  ROOM 

A  truly  splendid  apartment,  formed  by  the  Byrons,  for  tlie  use  of  King 
Charles  the  second,  over  the  marble  mantel  piece  is  a  portrait  of  his  Majesty, 
and  over  the  door,  is  one  of  his  royal  mother,  Q-ueen  Henrietta  Maria.  The 
STATE  BED,  is  surmounted  by  ostrich  plumes,  decorated  with  hangings  and 
coverlet  of  the  most  rich  and  costly  silk  tapestry  all  old  French  needle-work. 

The  ceiling  is  richly  decorated  with  the  Byron  arms,  in  the  centre  of  the 
various  heraldic  devices,  being  a  beautiful  representation  of  the  sky.  The 
Tapestry  upon  the  walls  is  both  "  rich  and  rare,"  two  of  the  pieces  being 
Bacchanalian  subjects,  and  the  other  an  Eastern  one.  There  is  a  beautiful 
inlaid  cabinet  in  this  room,  and  from  the  windows  a  fine  view  of  Boatswain's 
tomb  is  obtained. 

THE  TAPESTRY  DRESSING  ROOM 

Adjoining  and  communicating  therewith,  is  hung  with  some  of  the  most 
artistic  and  charming  specimens  of  tapestry  I  ever  saw,  in  six  divisions, 
representing  Time,  Ceres,  and  other  subjects.  The  representation  of 
Time  is  a  perfect  picture,  and  demands  especial  observation.  There  is 
also  an  antique  tapestry  couch.  It  also  contains  a  portrait  of  Sarah  Jennings, 
Duchess  of  Marlbro',  and  an  unknown  one,  supposed  to  be  one  of  the  Child 
family. 

In  the  lobby  adjoining  this  room  is  an  unfinished  stained  window,  the 
work  of  the  late  lamented  Lady  Gardiner,  and  underneath  is  a  rich  ebony 
cabinet  with  marble  slab.  You  next  enter 

KING  EDWARD  THE  THIRD'S  BED  ROOM. 

This,  which  is  a  richly  panelled  room,  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  rooms  of 
the  abbey,  and  was  used  by  King  Edward  the  third  on  his  visit  to  Newstead. 

The  mantel  piece  consists  of  rich  carved  oak,  surmounted  by  a  large  panel 
of  carved  heads  of  Saracens,  and  others,  each  occupying  a  separate  compart- 
ment, and  all  richly  coloured  in  heraldic  style. 

Here  is  a  beautiful  cabinet,  inlaid  with  plate  glass  mirrors,  a  dressing  table 
with  glass  over,  and  tripod  stand,  all  known  to  have  been  once  the  property 
of  Queen  Elizabeth.  This  room  contains  several  valuable  portraits,  including 
the  following  personages : — Queen  Mary  of  England,  Mary  Queen  of  Scots, 
Richard  the  third,  Henry  the  fourth,  Henry  the  eighth,  the  Duke  D'Artois. 

The  first  two  are  exquisite  little  gems,  whilst  that  of  the  Duke  D'Artois 
bears  date  so  early  as  1338.  Another  rich  oak  cabinet,  probably  of  foreign 
workmanship,  adorns  this  room.  The  bedstead  consists  of  massive  carved 
oak,  bearing  date  1630,  the  hangings  of  which,  green  and  gold,  were  worked 


37 

in  Mrs.  Wildman  and  several  friends,  whose  names  are  inscribed  upon  the 
borders.  To  this  room  is  attached  a  dark  panelled  dressing  room. 

The  Bed  room  of  His  Royal  Highness  the  Duke  of  Sussex,  or  as  it  is  called 
in  the  abbey  books 

KING  KENRY  THE  SEVENTH'S  LODGINGS 

is  the  next,  with  its  rich  tapestry  of  Indian  subjects,  and  antique  mantel- 
piece of  panelled  heads,  similar  to  those  in  the  best  bed  room.  This  room 
contains  a  crimson  four-post  bed,  surmounted  by  ostrich-feather  plumes,  and 
a  set  of  handsome  carved  oak  chairs,  the  seats  of  which  were  worked  by  Mrs. 
Wildman.  Over  the  door  is  a  portrait  of  the  unfortunate  Duke  of  Moii- 
mouth,  and  in  another  part  of  the  room  is  a  portrait  of  one  of  the  Byron 
family  in  a  masquerade  dress. 

Close  by  is  the  , 

THE  DUKE  OF  SUSSEX'S  SITTING  ROOM 

Perhaps  the  most  interesting  feature  of  this  room  is  the  portrait  of  poor 
Boatswain,  the  faithful  and  honored  friend  of  the  noble  poet.  There  is  also 
a  portrait  of  a  soldier  of  the  7th  Hussars  and  his  charger,  several  Landscapes 
and  a  Sea  piece.  At  one  end  is  an  elaborately  carved  cabinet,  covered  with 
figures,  and  containing  curious  drawers.  Another  beautiful  cabinet  inlaid  with 
ebony  and  tortoise-shell,  and  a  curious  oak  chest.  We  now  approach 

THE  GRAND  DRAWING  ROOM 

and  truly  a  noble  and  imposing  room  it  is.  The  richly  decorated  and  slightly 
arched  ceiling  with  massive  oak  framework  springing  boldly  from  beautifully 
carved  corbels,  the  splendidly  embossed  compartments  and  elegant  pendents, 
contrasted  with  the  oak  floor  so  bright  and  highly  polished,  that  you 
almost  fear  to  tread  upon  it,  combined  with  the  glittering  effect  of  a  large 
gilt  lantern-shaped  chandelier  suspended  in  the  centre,  amid  an  assemblage 
of  costly  furniture  and  richly  framed  paintings,  present  a  coup  d'ceil,  at  once 
effective  and  beautiful. 

The  East  end  is  adorned  with  the  following  paintings : — Dogs  and  Stag, 
by  Oudry,  very  fine.  Portrait  of  Thomas  Wildman,  Esq.,  M.  P.  (father  of 
Colonel  Wildman),  by  Romney.  Portrait  of  Lord  Henuiker,  by  Romney. 
Portrait  of  Sir  John  Gardiner  over  door,  and  on  the  other  side,  portrait  of 
Lady  Gardiner.  Along  the  North  side  are  portraits  of  George  the  first, 
Princess  Dowager  of  Wales,  (mother  of  George  the  third).  George  the 
second.  Queen  Mary  (wife  of  William  the  third).  The  celebrated  portrait 
D 


38 

of  Lord  Byron,  by  Phillips.  William  the  third  and  George  the  third,  by 
Ramsey,  and  a  fine  portrait  of  the  Earl  of  Arundel,  and  Boy,  by  Vandyck. 

At  the  West  end  as  a  centre  piece  is  a  fine  full  length  portrait  of  his  late 
Royal  Highness  the  Duke  of  Sussex,  by  Lonsdale,  in  massive  gilt  frame.  On 
either  side  are  portraits  of  Sir  Hildebrand  Oaks,  by  Russell,  Colonel  Ed- 
ward Wildman,  by  Russell.  Colonel  Wildman,  by  Phillips.  Mrs.  Wildman, 
by  Londsdale,  and  between  the  windows  on  the  South  side  is  a  fine  painting 
of  two  Sisters  and  Child,  by  Vandyck,  and  a  portrait  of  James  Wildman,  Esq. 
of  Chilham  Castle,  Kent.  Beneath  the  painting  of  the  Dogs  and  Stag 
stands  a  gilt  cabinet,  richly  inlaid  with  tortoise-shell  and  silver,  now  a  depo- 
sitory for  the  celebrated  scull  cup  of  Lord  Byron,  made  as  you  are  aware,  out 
of  the  cranium  of  one  of  the  Monks  of  Newstead.  It  is  mounted  in  silver, 
and  has  engraved  upon  it  the  inscription,  found  in  his  published  works, 
commencing 

"  Start  not — nor  deem  my  spirit  fled." 

The  chimney-piece  of  this  room  is  of  beautiful  Italian  marble,  having  in  the 
centre  a  spirited  piece  of  sculpture,  representing  Androcles  and  the  Lion, 
with  two  exquisite  busts  as  jaumbs  or  supporters.  There  is  a  splendid  gilt 
cabinet  placed  under  the  portrait  of  the  Duke  of  Sussex,  and  an  ebony  and 
tortoise-shell  one  opposite  the  fire  place.  The  antique  oak  chairs  and  richly  gilt 
furniture  not  enumerated  are  worthy  of  notice,  and  I  ought  not  to  omit  men- 
tioning that  under  a  glass  case  is  a  model  of  a  monument  to  Leopold  the 
first  of  Germany.  This  beautiful  piece  of  work  is  of  mother-of-pearl  and 
ebony,  and  is  exquisitely  conceived. 

Leaving  this  noble  room  we  descend  by  a  few  polished  oak  steps  into  the 
WEST  CORRIDOR,  from  which  you  enter  the 

GRAND  DINING  HALL 

a  noble  room,  being  the  ancient  refectory  of  the  abbey.  The  chimney-piece 
is  very  beautiful,  and  projects  boldly  from  the  wall.  The  ceiling  displays 
bold  oak  framework  springing  from  shield  corbels,  richly  decorated  with 
armorial  bearings,  and  the  walls  are  ornamented  with  suits  of  ancient  and 
modern  armour,  stag's  antler's  and  buffalo  horns,  &c.  with  excellent  effect. 
At  one  end  is  a  very  fine  gothic  screen,  in  three  compartments,  with  a  music 
gallery  over  it. 

The  doorway  leading  from  the  West  corridor  is  of  the  same  style,  and  a 
very  beautiful  specimen  of  carving.  This  room  is  pane  led  in  oak  to  the 
height  of  ten  feet  and  measures  about  fifty -four  feet  by  twenty-four,  and 
perhaps  thirty-five  feet  in  height. 


39 

THE  BREAKFAST  ROOM 

adjoining,  was  formerly  nsed  as  Lord  Byron's  dining  room.  The  ceiling  of 
this  room  is  richly  emblazoned  in  azure  and  gold,  in  square  compartments, 
and  is  ornamented  by  another  of  k  those  beautiful  many  headed  mantel- pieces 
before  described,  save  that  in  the  centre  of  this  one  are  the  Armorial  bearings 
of  the  Byrons,  upon  which  may  be  traced  in  ancient  letter  "  Sir  John  Byron, 
MD.L.VI."  The  chairs  are  covered  with  tapestry,  illustrating  many  of  the 
fables  of  jEsop.  There  is  a  beautiful  portrait  by  Rembrandt,  of  himself;  also 
the  Infant  Saviour,  by  Van  Eyck,  the  finest  specimen  of  this  master 
to  be  met  with  in  England. 

Descending  the  staircase,  you  are  introduced  into 

THE  CLOISTERS 

which  are  precisely  in  the  same  state,  saving  ordinary  dilapidations  as  in 
the  time  of  the  Monks. 

THE  CHAPEL 

a  small  dark  groined  room,  formerly  the  chapter  house  of  the  abbey.  In  it 
there  are  three  stained  windows  representing  the  twelve  Apostles.  Returning 
back  to  the  cloisters,  you  are  next  shewn  the  stone  coffin,  which  was  found 
near  the  high  altar,  when  the  workmen  were  excavating  the  vault,  intend- 
ed by  Lord  Byron  for  himself  and  his  dog.  The  coffin  contained  the 
skeleton  of  an  Abbot,  and  also  the  identical  skull  before  spoken  of.  In  the 
centre  of  the  cloisters  stands  an  old  gothic  fountain,  which  formerly  stood  iu 
front  of  the  abbey. 

THE  SERVANTS'  HALL 

although  not  usually  shewn  to  visitors,  interested  me  very  much,  not  only 
by  its  handsome  groined  ceiling,  &c.  but  also  from  the  fact  of  its  having 
formerly  been  the  Xenodochium  where  the  charitable  Monks  received  "  the 
lame,  the  blind,  the  halt,  and  the  poor,"  and  doled  out  with  kind  and  liberal 
hand  medicine  and  alms,  according  to  their  need. 

Upon  the  principal  staircase,  is  a  large  painting,  by  Walker,  representing 
Jacob  and  Rachel  at  the  well. 

Thus  have  I  completed  my  pleasing,  but  too  imperfectly 
executed  task  of  describing  Newstead.  To  do  it  full  justice, 
would  indeed  require  an  able  hand.  Even  Washington  Irving 
with  all  his  pleasant  gossiping  powers,  has  not  wholly  succeeded. 


40 

In  the  pages  of  her  poet  alone,  we  find  the  truest  notes  to  the 
feeling  this  subject  engenders  harmoniously  struck,  and  when 
pursuing  my  way  to  Annesley,  I  turned  to  take  a  parting  look 
at  the  venerable  abbey,  some  beautiful  lines  which  Mr.  Gait 
sent  to  one  of  the  magazines  as  original,  came  forcibly  to  my 
mind,  and  as  they  are  not,  I  believe,  in  any  edition  of  Byron's 
works,  I  cannot  end  better  than  by  writing  them  out  for  your 
perusal  too. 

"  In  the  dome  of  my  Sires  as  the  clear  moonbeam  fails, 
Through  silence  and  shade  o'er  its  desolate  walls ; 
It  shines  from  afar  like  the  glories  of  old, 
It  gilds  hut  it  warms  not,  'tis  dazzling  hut  cold. 

Let  the  sunbeam  be  bright  for  the  younger  of  days  ; 
'Tis  the  light  that  should  shine  on  a  race  that  decays, 
When  the  stars  are  on  high  and  the  dews  on  the  ground,. 
And  the  long  shadow  lingers  the  ruin  around. 

And  the  step  that  o'er  echoes  the  grey  floor  of  stone, 
Falls  sullenly  now,  for  'tis  only  my  own ; 
And  sunk  are  the  voices  that  sounded  in  mirth, 
And  empty  the  goblets  and  dreary  the  hearth. 

And  vain  was  each  effort  to  raise  and  recall 
The  brightness  of  old  to  illumine  our  Hall ; 
And  vain  was  the  hope  to  avert  our  decline, 
And  the  fate  of  my  fathers  has  faded  to  mine. 

And  their's  was  the  wealth  and  the  fullness  of  fame, 
And  mine  to  inherit  too  haughty  a  name  ; 
And  theirs  were  the  times  and  the  triumphs  of  yore, 
And  mine  to  regret,  but  renew  them  no  more. 

And  ruin  is  fixed  on  my  Tower  and  my  Wall, 
Too  hoary  to  fade  and  too  massive  to  fall ; 
It  tells  not  of  Time's,  or  the  tempest's  decay, 
But  the  wreck  of  the  line  that  have  held  it  in  sway." 

ANNESLEY 
After  a  picturesque  walk  through  a  country  every  footstep  of 


41 

which  is  more  or  less  associated  with  the  name  of  Byron,  I 
entered  the  wild  and  park-like  domain  of  Annesley,  which  is 
contiguous  to  the  Newstead  estates,  and  about  two  miles  dis- 
tant from  the  Abbey.  In  the  distance  the  eye  rests  upon  the 
interesting  range  of  hills,  so  famous  by  the  Poet's 

"  Hills  of  Annesley  bleak  and  barren, 
Where  my  thoughtless  childhood  strayed ; 
How  the  Northern  tempests  warring, 
Howl  above  the  tufted  shade. 

Now  no  more  the  hours  beguiling, 
Former  favorite  haunts  I  see ; 
Now  no  more  my  Mary  smiling, 
Makes  ye  seem  a  heaven  to  me." 

One,  the  most  conspicuous  of  these  wood-crowned  heights, 
is  more  particularly  interesting,  from  its  being  the  scene  of 
his  parting  with  Miss  Chaworth  (previous  to  her  marriage 
with  a  rival) ;  a  farewell,  as  he  then  thought  for  ever  to 
her 

"  who  was  his  life, 

The  ocean  to  the  river  of  his  thoughts, 
Which  terminated  all." 

In  the  "  Dream"  the  place,  and  most  heart  stirring  incident 
are  thus  vividly  remembered. 

"  I  saw  two  beings  in  the  hues  of  youth 
Standing  upon  a  hill,  a  gentle  hill, 
Green  and  of  mild  declivity,  the  last 
As  'twere  the  cape  of  a  long  ridge  of  such, 
Save  that  these  was  no  sea  to  lave  its  base, 
But  a  most  living  landscape,  and  the  wave 
Of  woods  and  cornfields,  and  the  abodes  of  men 
Scatter'd  at  intervals,  and  wreathing  smoke 
Arising  from  such  rustic  roofs ; — the  hill 
D    3 


42 

Was  crown'd  with  a  peculiar  diadem 
Of  trees  in  circular  array,  so  fix'd. 
Not  by  the  sport  of  nature,  hut  of  man : 
These  two,  a  maiden  and  a  youth,  were  there 
Gazing — the  one  on  all  that  was  beneath 
Fair  as  herself — but  the  boy  gazed  on  her ; 
And  both  were  young — yet  not  alike  in  youth. 
As  the  sweet  moon  on  the  horizon's  verge, 
The  maid  was  on  the  eve  of  womanhood  ; 
The  boy  had  fewer  summers,  but  his  heart 
Had  far  outgrown  his  years,  and  to  his  eye 
There  was  but  one  beloved  face  on  earth, 
And  that  was  shining  on  him." 

THE  HALL 

is  a  mansion  of  great  antiquity,  and  of  a  most  patchwork 
style  of  architecture.  So  early  as  the  Norman  conquest  it  is 
mentioned  as  of  the  fee  of  Ralph  Fitz  Herbert,  and  it  was 
afterwards  possessed  by  the  Annesley's  for  many  generations, 
from  whom  it  descended  by  marriage  to  the  Chaworths  of 
Wiverton,  whose  last  representative  by  name,*  the  ladye-love  of 
Lord  Byron,  married  John  Musters,  Esq.  August,  1805. 

Close  to  the  Hall  stands  a  venerable  little  church,  approach- 
ed from  it  by  a  shrubbery  and  almost  connected  with  it  by  a 
venerable  ivy  mantled  terrace.  A  number  of  broad  spreading 
trees  shelter  the  sacred  edifice,  and  shed  a  solemn  quietude 
over  the  silent  tombs. 

The  interior  of  the  Hall  is  rambling  and  irregular,  like  its 

*  John  Musters,  Esq.  a  gentleman,  whose  family,  under  the  name  of  De 
Musters  or  De  Monasteriis,  was  located  in  Nottinghamshire,  according  to 
Doomsday  book,  prior  even  to  the  Norman  conquest ;  their  chief  residence 
for  the  last  two  hundred  years  being  Colwick  Hall,  near  Nottingham,  which 
they  purchased  from  the  Byrons.  Mr.  Musters  who  ranked  as  one  of  the 
most  eminent  sportsmen  of  his  day,  died  at  Anncsley,  on  the  8th  of  Septem- 
ber last,  in  his  73rd  year. 


43 

outward  appearance;    but  the   whole  is  invested  by  Byron 
with  charms  that  no  modern  mansion  can  boast. 
In  the  "  Dream"  I  have  before  quoted  from,  he  says 

"  There  was  an  ancient  mansion,  and  before 
Its  walls  there  was  a  steed  caparison'd : 
Within  an  antique  Oratory  stood 
The  boy  of  whom  I  speak ;     *         * 


he  pass'd 

From  out  the  massy  gate  of  that  old  hall, 
And  mounting  on  his  steed  he  went  his  way ; 
And  ne'er  repass'd  that  hoaiy  threshold  more. 

The  "antique  Oratory"  has  long  been  a  perfect  and  dis- 
graceful ruin  ;  and  chilling  desolation  now  reigns  through 
the  old  halls  of  the  Chaworths,  in  consequence  of  the  recent 
death  of  Mr.  Musters.  Every  choice  memento  of  "  the  bright 
morning  star  of  Annesley"  and  her  long  line  of  ancestors, 
every  article  of  furniture,  antique  china,  paintings,  &c.  have 
just  been  "  scattered  to  the  four  winds"  by  that  most  relent- 
less of  all  dispersers  the  auctioneer's  hammer. 

William  Howitt  thus  touchingly  alludes  to  the  life  of  Mrs. 
Musters. 

"  There  is  nothing  in  all  the  histories  of  mortal  sorrows  and 
broken  affections  more  mournful  and  striking  than  the  idea 
of  this  lady  so  bright  and  joyous-hearted  in  her  youth,  sitting 
in  her  latter  years,  alone  and  uninterrupted  in  this  old  house 
weeping  over  the  poems  which  commented  in  burning  words 
on  the  individual  fortunes  of  herself  and  Lord  Byron." 

An  elegant  writer  in  "Tait"  thus  strikingly  impresses  the 
mind  with  the  same  deeply  interesting  but  melancholy  subject 


44 


THE  LADY  OF  ANNESLEY. 

"  She  sat  in  silence  and  her  tears  fell  free 
Over  the  open  volume  on  her  knee  ; 
She  sat  unheeding  while  the  hollow  hlast 
Rushed  thro'  the  trees,  whose  shadows  overcast 
The  ancient  Terrace  walk.    Within  that  room 
The  very  aspect  of  decay  and  gloom 
Seemed  gathering  round  its  inmate ;  yet  her  eye 
Ne'er  glanced  npon  its  fallen  luxury. 
Her  bloom  was  gone  for  ever,  sad  and  pale, 
As  a  crushed  lily  withering  'neath  the  gale ; 
With  none  to  hreak  her  solitude,  or  view 
Her  tearful  eye,  her  cheek  of  marble  hue, 
The  few  grey  hairs  amid  each  braided  tress, 
And  anguish  fading  all  her  loveliness. 
'Twas  mournful  that  so  sad  a  change  should  fall 
Upon  the  Lady  of  that  silent  hall : 
Was  there  not  one  to  cheer  her  breaking  heart, 
To  bid  each  wild  and  fearful  dream  depart ; 
And  win  her  back  to  gladness !  could  it  be 
She  was  forgotten  in  her  misery  ? 
Forgotten !  by  that  oft-repeated  word 
What  bitter  memories  in  her  heart  were  stirred 
Of  him  whose  thoughts  through  all  his  wandering 
Were  ever  turned  to  her — whom  life  could  bring 
No  happiness.     She  thought  of  her  own  scorn 
And  all  the  wrong  that  Byron's  name  had  borne ; 
Then  wildly  gazed  upon  each  line  that  told 
Of  love  rejected — cherished  hope  grown  cold — 
Of  thrilling  agony — enduring  care — 
And  genius  fiercely  striving  with  despair ! 
Her  tears  were  dried  but  a  dark  shadow  grew 
Upon  her  smooth  white  brow — 'twas  then  she  knew 
How  fervently  he  loved  her — she  is  laid 
Within  her  silent  grave,  beneath  whose  shade 
All  anguish  is  forgotten. — Stern  decay 
Hath  found  a  home  within  her  mansion  grey ; 
Dark  ivy  clings  upon  the  Terrace  wall, 


45 

And  wild  plants  grow  around  the  mined  Hall ; 
"While  bending  there  its  branches  rich  and  green 
A  willow  stands  as  if  it  mourned  the  scene. 
Not  often  in  the  Court  is  heard  the  tone 
Of  human  accents ;  tall  weeds  have  overgrown 
The  fountain,  and  its  cooling  waters  lie 
Hushed  as  the  tears  that  flowed  in  Annesley  !" 

In  addition  to  the  exquisite  beauty  of  the  above  lines,  they 
convey  to  the  mind  such  a  melancholy,  yet  truthful  descrip- 
tion of  the  present  state  of  Annesley,  that  although  written 
thirteen  or  fourteen  years  ago,  I  cannot  resist  the  temptation 
of  transcribing  them  for  your  especial  edification. 

Poor  Mary  Chaworth,  well  remembered  is  the  awful  night 
which  proved  the  harbinger  of  thy  lamented  death  ! 

It  was  on  the  close  of  a  dark  drizzly  miserable  day,  in  the 
month  of  October,  1831,  that  a  mob  of  lawless  ruffians,  intoxi- 
cated, nay  maddened  with  success,  rushed  with  demon  shouts 
past  Sneinton  church  and  in  direction  for  the  quiet  and  seques- 
tered lane  which  leads  to  Col  wick,  near  Nottingham.  After  a 
momentary  halt,  occasioned  by  a  consultation  among  the  ring- 
leaders, the  fatal  cry  was  raised  "  To  Colwick  Hall  /"  That 
shout  was  received  with  acclamation  by  the  multitude,  and 
passed  from  mouth  to  mouth  with  oaths  and  threats  and  yells 
of  fearful  import.  Along  they  sped,  armed  with  broken 
palisades  and  such  other  weapons  as  the  requirements  of  their 
devilish  purpose  could  suggest,  or  the  emergency  of  the  mo- 
ment supply. 

Suddenly  the  noise  and  footsteps  of  the  lawless  intruders 
fell  upon  the  ears  of  the  few  inmates  of  Colwick  Hall ;  these 
consisted  only  of  Mrs.  Musters,  her  daughter,  and  a  few 
domestics,  who,  paralysed  with  fear,  fled  at  the  approach 
of  wretches  from  whom  they  had  nothing  to  expect  but 


46 

violence  or  murder,   especially  if  resistance  were  offered  to 
their  mad  career. 

A  few  minutes,  and  that  quiet  home  became  a  desolation, 
and  the  scene  of  violence,  drunkenness  and  crime,  rarely 
if  ever  surpassed.  Every  room  was  ransacked,  every  drawer 
and  cabinet  burst  open,  and  when  plunder  had  done  its 
worst,  the  collected  furniture  was  burnt  upon  the  lawn,  amid 
the  yells  and  execrations  of  the  followers  of  those  self-styled 
Reformers,  who,  only  the  day  before,  in  announcing  the  rejec- 
tion of  the  Cora  Bill  by  the  House  of  Lords,  headed  their 
placard  with  Nelson's  well  known  motto  "  England  expects 
that  every  man  will  do  his  duty."  How  fearfully  that  glorious 
watchword  of  our  greatest  hero  was  responded  to  by  the 
ignorant  and  the  vicious,  let  the  records  of  the  reform  riots  and 
this  fearful  tragedy  bear  witness  ! 

But  to  return.  These  horrible  proceedings  were  too  much 
for  the  delicate  and  already  emaciated  form  of  poor  Mrs.  Mus- 
ters to  withstand.  In  the  wild  excitement  and  terror  of  the 
moment,  she  with  her  daughter  fled  from  the  Hall,  and 
sought  refuge  beneath  the  thick  foliage  of  a  laurel  tree  in  the 
shrubbery ;  here  trembling  with  cold  and  wet,  for  it  rained 
heavily,  she  witnessed  the  sad  scene  of  devastation,  and  mourn- 
fully awaited  the  departure  of  the  destroyers. 

From  the  effects  of  that  fearful  night  she  never  entirely 
recovered ;  cold  and  terror  hurried  her  to  the  grave,  and  she 
died  at  Wiverton  Hall,  in  February,  1832,  a  victim  to  as 
diabolical  an  outrage  as  ever  disgraced  the  annals  of  an  Eng- 
lish mob.  Thus  died  the  beloved  of  Byron,  "  a  lady,"  says 
Mr.  Moore,  "  who  combined  with  the  many  worldly  advantages 
that  encircled  her,  much  personal  beauty  and  a  disposition  the 
most  amiable  and  attaching." 


47 
On  leaving  Annesley,  I  next  reached  the  rural  village  of 

LIN  BY, 

which  bears  evidence  from  the  monastic  ruins  still  to  be 
found,  of  having  some  centuries  ago  been  a  place  of  religious 
importance,  probably  connected  either  with  the  Priory  of 
Newstead,  or  the  one  at  Lenton,  near  Nottingham.  A  May- 
pole still  adorns  this  "  village  green/'  and  at  the  north  and 
south  ends  of  the  village  stands  two  venerable  Crosses.  The 
one  at  the  north  end,  from  its  exquisite  workmanship  and  fair 
proportions,  may  be  considered  as  fine  a  specimen  of  the  village 
cross  as  can  be  met  with  in  almost  any  part  of  England.  The 
neat  little  church,  dedicated  to  Saint  Michael  (and  which  con- 
tains some  ancient  monuments  of  the  Chaworth  family)  adds 
much  to  the  appearance  of  this  rural  spot,  of  which  "Washing- 
ton Irving  says,  "the  moss-grown  cottages,  the  lowly  mansions 
of  grey  stone,  the  gothic  crosses  at  each  end  of  the  village, 
and  the  tall  may-pole  in  the  centre,  transport  us  in  imagination 
to  former  centuries. 

Pursuing  my  walk  a  mile  further,  I  arrived  at 

HUCKNALL  CHURCH, 

which  has  for  ages  been  the  last  resting  place  of  the  Byron 
family,  and  where  repose  the  ashes  of  the  Poet,  marked 
only  by  a  neat  marble  slab,  bearing  the  following  inscription. 

Li  the  vault  beneath 
where  many  of  his  Ancestors  and  his  Mother  are 

Buried, 

lie  the  remains  of 

GEORGE  GORDON  NOEL  BYRON, 

Lord  Byron,  of  Rochdale, 

in  the  County  of  Lancaster, 

the  author  of  "  Childe  Harold's  Pilgrimage." 


48 
He  was  born  iu  London,  on  the, 

22nd  of  January,  1788. 
He  died  at  Missolonglii,  in  Western  Greece,  on  the 

19th  of  April,  1824. 

Engaged  in  the  glorious  attempt  to  restore  that 
countiy  to  her  ancient  grandeur  and  renown. 

His  sister,  the  Honorable 

Augusta  Maria  Leigh, 
placed  this  Tablet  to  his  Memory. 

This  last  home  of  the  Poet  is  much  frequented,  and  the 
Album  kept  for  visitors  bears  evidence  of  the  heartfelt  emotions 
of  many  a  pilgrim  to  his  tomb.  How  appropriate  for  instance 
are  the  following  lines,  composed  by  William  Howitt,  imme- 
diately after  the  interment. 

"  Rest  in  thy  tomb,  young  heir  of  glory,  rest ! 
Rest  in  thy  rustic  tomb,  which  thou  shalt  make 
A  spot  of  light  upon  thy  country's  breast, 
Known,  honoured,  haunted  ever  for  thy  sake. 
Thither  romantic  pilgrims  shall  betake 
Themselves  from  distant  lands. — When  we  are  still 
In  centuries  of  sleep,  thy  fame  shall  wake 
And  thy  great  memory  with  deep  feelings  fill 
These  scenes  which  thou  hast  trod,  and  hallow  every  hill." 

Turning  now  homewards,  I  found  I  had  crowded  too  much 
into  my  day's  purpose,  for,  still  on  the  way  objects  of  interest 
rise  before  the  traveller  rapidly  as  if  by  command  of  a 
magician's  wand.  Of  these,  Robin  Hood's  hills  near  Kirkby, 
deserve  from  their  picturesque  appearance,  a  passing  notice. 

Kirkby  Hardwick  too,  ought  not  to  be  forgotten,  formerly 
a  monastery  connected  with  Newstead  abbey,  or  perhaps  the 
neighbouring  priory  of  Felley.  This  ancient  mansion  was 
bestowed  upon  George,  Earl  of  Shrewsbury,  by  King  Henry 


49 

the  eighth,  and  is  noticed  by  Leland,  who  calls  it  Hardwick 
upon  Line.     It  is  now  the  residence  of  John  Clarke,  Esq. 

Here  Cardinal  Wolsey,  the  once  powerful  favourite  of  a 
tyrant  Monarch,  passed  a  night  wearied  and  heart  broken, 
immediately  before  his  death  at  Leicester. 

A  little  nearer  Mansfield  and  a  pleasing  view  of  Sutton  Hall 
and  Works  is  obtained,  and  the  beautiful  sheet  of  water  called 
the  King's  Mill  Reservoir,  which  was  made  by  the  Duke  of 
Portland  some  twelve  years  ago,  as  an  auxiliary  to  that  exten- 
sive system  of  irrigation,  which  has  for  years  occupied  his 
Grace's  attention,  and  of  which  I  shall  give  you  further  par- 
ticulars shortly.  The  waters  of  this  reservoir  cover  the  once 
romantic  dingle  where  stood  the  antique  water  mill  and  cottage, 
which  are  said  to  have  been  the  scene  of  the  humourous 
rencontre  between  the  King  John  and  the  redoubtable  Sir 
John  Cockle,  the  Miller  of  Mansfield,  and  which  was  drama- 
tized by  Dodsley  with  so  much  success. 


LETTER  III. 


HARDWICK  HALL 

"  What !  is  not  this  my  place  of  strength"  she  said, 
"  My  spacious  mansion  built  for  me, 
Whereof  the  strong  foundation-stones  were  laid 
Since  my  first  memory  ?" 


)T  is  hardly  to  be  expected  that  one  neighbourhood  can 
offer  other  scenes  so  interesting  as  those  associated  with  Byron's 
'  strange  eventful  history ;'  scenes  that  ever  acquire  a  grow- 
ing charm  as  the  lapse  of  years  softens  the  errors  of  the  man, 
and  confirms  the  genius  of  the  Poet.  It  is  time  indeed  that 
his  enemies  were  content  to  say  '  after  life's  fitful  fever  he 
sleeps  well,'  and  no  more  with  narrow  criticism  try  to  bare 
the  abysmal  deeps  of  his  great  Personality. 

Leaving  then  Abbey  and  Poet  with  all  their  recollections, 
accompany  me  now  to  Hall  and  Park,  and  Castle, 

"  Ancient  homes  of  Lord  and  Lady, 
Built  for  pleasure  and  for  state." 

and  first  upon  the  list  is  the  noble  building,  with  the  title  of 
which  I  have  headed  this  letter. 

Hardwick  Hall  is  little  more  than  six  miles  to  the  North-west 
of  Mansfield,  and  one  of  the  seats  of  that  princely  noble,  the 
Duke  of  Devonshire. 


•jfc&py.        ••...&*£  <    J 


II 


51 

It  is  a  substantial  stone  building,  in  pure  Elizabethan  style, 
and  stands  upon  elevated  table  land,  from  whence  there  is  a 
fine  view  of  the  long  chain  of  romantic  hills  bordering  upon 
the  Peak  of  Derbyshire.  The  park,  with  its  herds  of  deer, 
numerous  fish  ponds,  stately  oaks,  and  richly  wooded  scenery, 
presents  many  attractive  features. 

The  present  hall  was  built  by  the  celebrated  Countess  of 
Shrewsbury,  and  was  finished  in  the  year  1587.  It  is  of  an 
oblong  form  studded  with  antique  windows,  and  having  six 
square  towers  of  commanding  proportions,  rising  at  intervals 
sternly  above  the  rest  of  the  building,  which  is  ornamented  by 
neatly  carved  open  work  battlements  adorned  here  and  there 
with  the  noble  lady's  initials  E.  S.  surmounted  by  a  coronet. 
The  principal  front  is  about  390  feet  in  extent ;  a  spacious 
and  formal  flower  garden  surrounds  this  entrance,  and  giving 
excellent  effect  to  the  approach.  The  walled  yard  or  paddock 
near,  with  its  really  magnificent  range  of  stables  will  excite 
the  admiration  of  visitors,  for  they  give  a  most  exalted  idea  of 
the  state  or  hospitality  which  could  require  offices  so  extensive. 
Gay  and  busy  and  exciting  scenes  must  they  have  been  which 
these  court  yards  were  wont  to  witness  in  the  profuse  and 
hospitable  times  of  the  extraordinary  woman,  by  whose  liber- 
ality they  were  erected. 

A  short  distance  from  the  entrance  stand  the  noble  ruins  of 
what  is  termed  the  old  Hall,  only  upheld  from  yielding  to  the 
first  winter's  blast  by  most  gigantic  and  luxuriant  ivy  which 
clings  with  the  vigour  and  affection  of  oft  renewed  youth  to 
the  smitten  remnants  of  her  dismantled  turrets. 

I  find  no  satisfactory  account  of  the  time  the  old  hall  was 
built,  but  certain  it  is,  that  it  was  a  place  of  great  beauty  and 
importance  during  the  reign  of  Henry  the  eighth. 


52 

In  1203,  King  John  transferred  the  Hardwick  estate  to 
Andrew  Beauchamp,  and  it  passed  in  1258  to  William  de 
Steynesby,  who  held  it  by  the  annual  surrender  of  three 
pounds  of  cinnamon  and  one  of  pepper  !  John  de  Steynesby, 
grandson  of  the  above,  died  possessed  of  it  1330.  Soon  after- 
wards the  family  of  de  Hardwicke  were  established  here,  and 
possessed  the  estate  for  six  generations. 

One  majestic  room  is  now  all  that  remains  (except  the  outer 
and  lower  walls)  of  this  once  beautiful  residence.  It  measures 
60  feet  6  inches  by  30  feet  6  inches,  and  is  24  feet  6  inches 
high,  and  has  long  been  considered  a  model  of  most  elegant 
proportions ;  indeed  to  use  the  words  of  an  old  writer, 
"  the  old  house  has  one  room  in  it  of  such  exact  proportions, 
and  such  convenient  lights,  that  it  was  thought  fit  for  a  pat- 
tern of  measure  and  contrivance  to  the  most  noble  at  Blen- 
heim." This  room,  which  is  called  the  Giant's  chamber, 
from  two  colossal  figures  standing  there,  still  bears  evidence  of 
having  been  finished  in  a  superb  style.  In  the  north  east  end 
was  a  large  library,  containing  a  pair  of  globes  then  very 
valuable. 

This  part  of  the  brave  old  mansion  was  pulled  down  when 
the  late  Duke  of  Devonshire  built  what  are  called  the  grand 
stables  at  Chatsworth. 

The  noble  stable  court,  (perhaps  few  its  equal)  the  extensive 
park,  that  portion  of  the  present  park  which  lies  to  the  west 
and  south  of  the  house,  with  its  fish-ponds,  paddocks,  &c.  all 
evince  that  the  father  of  the  Countess,  John  Hardwick,  Esq. 
enjoyed  a  plentiful  estate,  and  its  convenient  accompaniments. 

Dr.  White  Kennet,  in  speaking  of  this  residence  says,  "  the 
old  Hall  is  where  the  Countess  was  born.  Before  part  of  it 
was  demolished  it  was  a  large  house,  and  contained  perhaps 


53 

thirty  rooms  capable  to  be  made  lodging-rooms,  besides  lower 
rooms  for  business."  "  It  was  built  at  three  different  times, 
the  middle  part  is  the  oldest,  the  west  or  south  west  end  the 
second  built,  the  north  east  end  the  third  building." 

As  the  name  of  the  Countess  of  Shrewsbury  is  so  intimately 
connected  with  the  history  of  this  district,  it  may  not  perhaps 
be  out  of  place  to  give  a  brief  memoir  of  her  life,  so  here  it  is. 

Elizabeth,  the  celebrated  Countess  of  Shrewsbury,  was  as 
previously  stated,  the  daughter  of  John  Hardwick,  Esq. 
and  of  Elizabeth,  the  daughter  of  Thomas  Leake,  Esq.  of 
Hasland,  in  the  county  of  Derby.  She  was  born  in  the  year 
1521,  and  when  scarcely  fourteen  years  of  age,  she  married 
Robert  Barley,  Esq.  of  Barley,  in  the  county  of  Derby,  a 
young  gentleman  of  large  estates,  all  of  which  he  settled  abso- 
lutely upon  his  young  wife,  and  therefore  by  his  death,  which 
happened  soon  afterwards  without  issue,  she  came  into  posses- 
sion of  a  valuable  addition  to  her  ancestral  property,  on  the  2nd 
February,  1532. 

After  remaining  a  widow  about  twelve  years,  she  married  Sir 
William  Cavendish,  by  whom  she  had  issue  as  follows,  viz : 

Henry  Cavendish,  Esq.  who  settled  at  Tutbury,  Stafford- 
shire. 

William  Cavendish,  the  first  Earl  of  Devonshire. 

Charles  Cavendish,  settled  at  Welbeck  Abbey,  and  the 
father  of  William  Baron  Ogle,  and  Duke  of  Newcastle. 

Frances,  who  married  Sir  Henry  Pierrepont,  of  Holme  Pierre- 
pont,  near  Nottingham,  from  whom  descended  the  Dukes  of 
Kingston  and  Earl  Manvers. 

Elizabeth,  who  espoused  Charles  Stuart,  Earl  of  Lenox, 
youngest  brother  to  King  James  the  first's  father.* 

*  The  issue  of  this  marriage  was  the  beautiful  and  accomplished  Lady  Ara- 
E    3 


54 

Mary,  who  married  Gilbert,  Earl  of  Shrewsbury. 

After  the  death  of  Sir  William  Cavendish,  her  Ladyship 
again  continued  in  widowhood  for  some  time,  but  at  length 
married  Sir  William  St.  Lowe,  captain  of  the  guard  to  Queen 
Elizabeth,  and  who  had  a  large  estate  in  Gloucestershire,  which 
in  the  articles  of  marriage,  were  settled  on  her  Ladyship  and 
heirs,  in  default  of  issue  by  Sir  William,  and  accordingly  hav- 
ing no  child  by  him,  she  lived  to  enjoy  his  whole  estate,  to  the 
exclusion,  not  only  his  brothers,  who  were  heirs  male,  but  also 
his  own  daughters  by  a  former  wife  ! 

During  this  her  third  widowhood,  the  charms  of  her  wit  and 
beauty  captivated  the  then  greatest  subject  of  the  realm, 
George  Talbot,  Earl  of  Shrewsbury,  whom  she  brought  to 
terms  of  the  greatest  honor  and  advantage  to  herself  as  well  as 
to  her  children,  for  he  not  only  yielded  to  a  considerable  joint- 
ure, but  also  to  an  union  of  families,  by  taking  her  youngest 
daughter  Mary,  to  be  the  wife  of  Gilbert,  his  second  son,  and 
afterwards  heir ;  and  also  giving  the  Lady  Grace,  his  youngest 
daughter  to  Henry,  her  eldest  son. 

On  November  18,  1590,  she  was  a  fourth  time  left,  and 
until  death  continued  a  widow. 

There  were  changes  of  condition  in  the  life  of  this  Lady, 
that  perhaps  never  fell  to  the  lot  of  any  other  woman.  To  be 
four  times  a  wife,  to  rise  by  every  husband  into  greater  wealth 
and  higher  honors,  to  have  a  numerous  issue  by  one  husband 
only,  to  have  all  those  children  live,  and  all,  by  her  advice  be 
creditably  disposed  of  by  marriage  in  her  lifetime,  and  after 
all  to  live  seventeen  years  a  widow  in  absolute  power  and 

bella  Stuart,  who  was  educated  at  Hardwick,  under  the  care  of  the  Countess, 
her  grandmother,  and  whose  affecting  and  melancholy  history  is  second  only 
to  that  of  her  kinswoman  Mary  Queen  of  Scots. 


55 

plenty,  and  in  addition  to  all  this,  to  have  been  as  it  were  the 
founder  of  several  of  the  most  nohle  houses  which  now  adorn 
the  peerage,  as  well  as  the  grandmother  of  a  Princess  of  the 
blood  Royal,  are  certainly  circumstances  which  seem  to  partake 
more  of  the  character  of  fiction  than  that  of  sober  reality. 

She  had  also  the  honor  to  be  keeper  to  Mary  Queen  of  Scots, 
for  many  years,  and  it  seems  probable  she  frequently  brought 
her  royal  charge  to  Hardwick  during  that  period. 

She  died  full  of  years,  honors,  and  worldly  comforts,  on  the 
13th  February,  1607,  and  was  buried  in  the  south  aisle  of  All 
Saint's  church  in  Derby,  (where  she  had  founded  an  hospital 
for  twelve  poor  persons)  under  a  costly  tomb  which  she  took 
care  to  erect  in  her  own  lifetime,  and  whereon  a  remarkable 
epitaph  was  afterwards  inscribed,  and  a  recumbent  marble 
effigy  of  her  Ladyship  placed. 

Most  of  this  Lady's  biographers  agree  that  she  was  of  noble 
and  commanding  appearance,  beautiful,  accomplished,  discreet 
and  talented,  although  perhaps  towards  the  latter  part  of  her 
life  rather  inclined  to  be  arrogant  and  despotic,  hence  her 
union  with  the  Earl  of  Shrewsbury,  (who  by  the  bye  was  not 
all  perfection  himself),  proved  anything  but  a  happy  one.  To 
her  credit  however  be  it  said,  that  in  their  disputes,  which 
ended  in  a  separation,  both  Queen  Elizabeth  and  Overton, 
Bishop  of  Lichfield  very  warmly  took  the  Lady's  part.  After 
a  careful  examination  of  the  character  of  this  extraordinary 
woman  I  am  driven  to  the  conclusion  that  she  was  more  "  sin- 
ned against  than  sinning,"  and  there  are  certainly  no  events 
connected  with  her  life,  which  could  in  my  opinion,  justify  any 
writer  in  speaking  of  her  with  such  severity,  as  does  one  of  her 
own  sex  who  says,*  "  His,"  the  Earl  of  Shrewsbury's  "  proud 

*  Miss  Strickland's  Lives  of  the  Queens  of  England,  vol.  7. 


56 

and  cruel  wife  whose  temper  could  not  be  restrained  by  any 
power  either  on  earth  or  in  heaven,  soon  became  jealous  of  the 
lovely  and  fascinating  prisoner,  and  led  her  husband,  a  noble 
of  exemplary  gravity,  and  a  grandsire,  a  terrible  life !" 

In  addition  to  her  other  extraordinary  propensities,  the 
Countess  was  undoubtedly  afflicted  with  what  in  modern  times 
is  not  inaptly  termed  a  "  building  mania,"  and  she  had  the 
honor  of  building  three  of  the  most  splendid  seats  that  were 
perhaps  ever  raised  by  any  one  person  in  the  same  county,  viz  : 
— Hardwick  Hall,  of  which  I  am  now  speaking,  Oldcotes,  near 
Chesterfield,  now  in  ruins,  and  that  prince  of  mansions,  and 
gem  of  the  Peak,  Chatsworth.  To  assist  in  the  erection  or 
rather  rebuilding  of  this  latter  noble  edifice,  she  caused  a  great 
quantity  of  the  materials  to  be  removed  from  the  old  Hall  of 
Hardwick,  which  circumstance  may  partly  account  for  the 
extremely  ruinous  state  of  that  ancient  building. 

To  account  for  this  Lady's  rage  for  building,  there  is  a  tra- 
dition (recorded  by  Walpole)  that  she  was  told  by  a  fortune- 
teller that  her  death  should  not  happen  while  she  continued 
building,  and  accordingly  she  expended  immense  sums  of 
money  in  so  doing ;  and  singular  enough  she  died  in  a  hard  frost 
when  the  workmen  could  not  proceed  with  building  operations ! 

Thus  much  for  the  history  of  Hardwick' s  noble  founder, 
for  the  leading  facts  of  which  I  am  indebted  to  a  copious 
memoir  of  the  Cavendish  family,  written  by  the  learned  Dr. 
Kennett,  once  chaplain  in  the  family,  and  afterwards  Bishop 
of  Peterborough. 

Leaving  the  romantic  foreground  and  interesting  ruins  of 
the  ancient  building, 

•'Where  now  the  spider  is  weaving  his  woof, 
Making  his  loom  of  the  sculptured  roof ; 


57 

Where  weeds  have  gathered  and  moss  hath  grown, 
On  the  topmost  ridge  and  lowest  stone  : 

I  will  proceed  to  give  you  as  accurate  a  description  as  I  pos- 
sibly can  of  the  interior  attractions  of  the  present  Hall. 

Passing  through  a  narrow  gateway,  you  approach  the  west 
front  along  a  wide  flagged  pavement,  and  are  admitted  into  the 

ENTRANCE,  OR  GREAT  HALL 

which  is  of  great  magnitude,  and  fitted  up  with  oak  wainscoting  and  tapestry, 
in  admirable  keeping  with  the  rest  of  the  internal  furnishing  and  decorations, 
which  as  a  whole,  is  said  to  he  the  most  faithful  illustration  of  the  domestic 
habits  of  the  days  of  Elizabeth,  that  any  building  in  England  affords. 

This  apartment  contains  a  bust  of  Mary  Queen  of  Scots,  by  Westmacott. 
On  a  pedestal,  bearing  an  armorial  escutcheon,  is  the  following  brief  inscrip- 
tion: 

Maria  Regina  Scotorum 

Nata  1542, 

A  suis  in  exilium  acta,  1568, 
Ab  hospita  neci  data,  1587. 

Along  the  west  end  of  the  hall  runs  the  Minstrel  gallery,  supported  by 
four  pillars,  and  forming  a  sort  of  vestibule  to  the  entrance. 
Leaving  the  hall,  we  ascend  by  the  north  staircase  into 

THE  CHAPEL 

hung  with  tapestry,  representing  some  of  the  leading  incidents  connected 
with  the  life  of  Saint  Paul,  including  his  conversion  and  shipwreck.  The 
chairs  and  cushions,  &c.  contain  some  rich  and  costly  specimens  of  antique 
needlework,  and  as  such  are  interesting  and  deserving  of  attention. 

THE  DINING  HALL 

is  fitted  up  with  small  panels  of  dark  oak  wainscoting.  Over  the  chimney- 
piece  is  the  following  motto. 

"  The  conclusion  of  all  thinges,  is  to  feare  God  and  keepe  his  commaund- 
mentes,"  underneath  are  the  initials  E.  S.  surmounted  by  a  coronet  and  the 
date  1597. 

There  are  several  portraits  in  this  room,  including  the  first  Duke  of  Devon- 
shire. Georgiana,  Duchess  of  Devonshire.  Horatio,  first  Lord  Walpole. 
The  Right  Honorable  Henry  Pelham,  and  the  Earl  of  Southampton,  Lord 
Treasurer  to  Charles  the  second. 


58 

A  door  on  the  north  side  of  this  room  opens  into 

THE  CUT  VELVET  BED  ROOM 

which  was  formerly  hung  with  ancient  silk  drapery,  richly  embossed  with 
emblematical  figures,  in  gold  and  silver  lace  and  thread ;  but  is  now  hung 
with  tapestry,  in  good  preservation,  pourtraying  Flemish  subjects.  Over 
the  doors  are  specimens  of  the  old  needlework  decently  restored. 

The  arms  of  Cavendish,  Shrewsbury,  and  Hardwick  are  emblazoned  over 
the  chimney-piece. 

Returning  through  the  dining-room,  and  proceeding  along  the  gallery  be- 
fore alluded  to,  and  from  which  there  is  a  commanding  view  of  the  entrance 
hall,  you  enter 

THE  DRAWING  ROOM 

which  is  also  wainscoted  in  beautiful  dark  oak  panels  for  a  considerable 
height,  above  which  is  some  fine  tapestry,  representing  the  story  of  Esther 
and  King  Ahasuerus. 

In  this  room  are  several  portraits,  including  Sir  William  Cavendish,  taken 
in  his  42ud  year,  and  considered  fine.  Charles  James  Fox  and  Countess 
Spencer,  mother  of  Georgiana,  Duchess  of  Devonshire.  Over  the  chimney- 
piece  are  the  Hardwick  arms,  surmounted  by  a  coronet,  and  supported  by 
two  stags,  underneath  is  the  following  distich. 

"  Sanguine,  cornu,  corde,  oculo,  pede,  cervus  et  aure. 
Nobilis  at  claro ;  pondere  nobilior." 

By  the  south  door  of  this  room  you  enter 

THE  DUKE'S  BED  ROOM 

which  is  hung  with  splendid  tapestry,  representing  Abraham  and  the  angels, 
Isaac  and  Rebecca,  and  other  scriptural  subjects. 

A  DRESSING  ROOM 

adjoins,  looking  south,  in  which  are  some  interesting  specimens  of  the 
Countess  of  Shrewsbury's  needlework. 

Returning  through  the  drawing  room,  you  reach  the 

GRAND  STAIRCASE 

the  walls  of  which  contain  some  splendid  specimens  of  tapestry,  on  which 
may  readily  be  traced  the  story  of  Hero  and  Leander. 

There  is  a  curious  ancient  chest  near  the  drawing  room  door,  supposed  to 
have  belonged  to  George  Talbot,  Earl  of  Shrewsbury. 


59 

On  arriving  at  the  top  of  the  staircase,  a  fine  old  door  (surmounted  by  the 
Hardwick  arms)  presents  itself,  and  which  enters  into  the 

STATE  ROOM,  OR  PRESENCE  CHAMBER 

a  noble  room,  65  feet  long,  33  feet  wide,  and  26  feet  high.  The  walls  to  the 
height  of  15  feet  are  adorned  with  rich  tapestry,  representing  the  chief 
events  of  the  Odyssey. 

Above  the  tapestry,  there  is  a  basso  relievo  representation  of  a  stag  hunt, 
and  the  court  of  Diana.  The  arms  of  England  are  over  the  fire-place. 

The  furniture  in  this  room  is  extremely  rich,  and  chiefly  of  the  time  of 
James  the  second,  together  with  some  curious  old  chairs  and  stools  recently . 
restored. 

At  the  north  end  of  the  room  is  a  canopy  of  embroidered  black  velvet, 
with  chair  and  foot-stool  to  match,  the  inside  being  ornamented  by  the  Hard- 
wick  arms  quartered  with  the  Brace's  of  Elgin.  In  front  of  the  canopy 
stands  a  long  table  of  Queen  Elizabeth's  time,  beautifully  inlaid. 

In  a  spacious  recess  stands  the  state  bed,  with  rich  crimson  velvet  canopy, 
and  noble  ostrich  plumes.  The  curtains  are  of  crimson  velvet  and  elaborately 
covered  with  gold  and  silver  tissue,  and  there  are  also  carved  chairs  and 
stools  covered  with  the  same  material,  to  match.  The  whole  are  in  a  good 
state  of  preservation.  We  next  come  to  the 

LIBRARY 

the  walls  and  doorways  of  which  are  hung  with  tapestry.  From  the  windows 
of  this  room  a  splendid  prospect  may  be  obtained. 

The  library  contains  a  considerable  number  of  curious  and  valuable  works, 
and  the  walls  are  graced  with  several  paintings,  including  the  celebrated 
Countess  of  Shrewsbury  herself.  A  fine  portrait  of  the  fourth  Duchess  of 
Devonshire  on  horseback.  (The  horse  was  painted  by  Van  Blooman,  the 
landscape  by  Horizonte,  and  the  portrait  by  Kent,  in  1747).  The  first  Duke 
of  Devonshire  when  a  youth,  and  Jeffery  Hudson,  the  celebrated  dwarf  (painted 
by  Vandyck).  From  this  to  the 

GREEN  ROOM 

the  walls  of  which  are  now  hung  with  beautiful  silk  tapestry.     The  library 
and  green  room  were  originally  the  same  height  as  the  presence  chamber. 
You  next  enter  the  interesting  room  known  as 

MARY  QUEEN  OF  SCOTS'  ROOM 

which  is  somewhat  small,  situate  in  one  of  the  square  towers.     The  prin- 


60 

cipal  object  of  attention  in  this  room  is  the  Queen's  bed,  which  being  hung 
with  black  velvet,  has  rather  a  gloomy  but  not  unpleasing  appearance 
the  hangings  are  richly  embroidered  with  flowers  in  colored  silk,  by  the 
hands  of  the  Royal  prisoner  and  her  attendants. 

Over  the  door  are  the  Royal  arms  of  Scotland,  with  the  initials  M.  R.,  and 
round  the  whole  is  the  inscription 

"  Marie  Stewart,  par  le  grace  de  Dieu,  Royne  de  Scosse,  Douariere  de 
Trance."  Crest  a  lion.  Motto,  "  In  my  Defens." 

THE  BLUE  ROOM 

amongst  other  attractions,  contains  a  representation  of  the  marriage  of 
'Tobias,  placed  over  the  mantel-piece. 

The  next  and  perhaps  most  attractive  room  is 

THE  PICTURE  GALLERY 

which  extends  the  whole  length  of  the  eastern  front,  measuring  166  feet  in 
length,  forty-one  feet  in  width  (including  the  window  recesses)  and  26  feet 
high. 

Some  very  ancient  tapestry  (removed  from  the  old  Halls  at  Chatsworth 
and  Hardwick)  may  be  seen  in  this  noble  apartment,  part  of  it  bearing  date 
so  long  since  as  1478. 

The  windows  in  this  gallery,  although  no  larger  than  the  others  on  the 
same  story,  are  of  most  enormous  proportions,  and  are  altogether  computed 
to  contain  27,000  panes  of  glass.  Hence  no  doubt  the  origin  of  the  saying, 

"Hardwick  Hall, 
More  glass  than  wall." 

There  are  two  splendid  chimney-pieces  here,  composed  of  black  marble  and 
alabaster,  one  surmounted  by  a  piece  of  sculpture,  representing  "Pity," 
the  other  a  companion-piece,  representing  "  Justice ;"  they  are  supposed  to  be 
the  work  of  either  Stephens,  a  Flemish  sculptor,  or  Valerio  Vicentino,  an 
Italian  artist. 

The  immense  number  of  paintings  hanging  in  this  room,  consist  chiefly  of 
family  portraits,  a  catalogue  of  which  would  far  exceed  my  limits.  The  fol- 
lowing will  however,  be  probably  found  the  most  interesting,  viz  : — 

Queen  Elizabeth ;  the  Countess  of  Shrewsbury ;  the  beautiful  Arabella 
Stnart ;  Henry  the  seventh  and  Henry  the  eighth ;  (cartoon,  by  Holbein) ; 
Mary  Queen  of  Scots  when  young ;  William,  first  Duke  of  Devonshire,  the 
same  on  horseback ;  Lord  William  Russell ;  Georgiana,  Duchess  of  Devon- 
shire ;  Third  Earl  of  Burlington ;  Robert  Boyle  the  Philosopher ;  Thomas 
Hobbes ;  Seventh  Earl  of  Derby  j  Lord  Treasurer  Burleigh. 


61 

Hardwick  was  for  many  years  the  abode  of  the  semi-infidel 
philosopher  Hobbes,  who  having  in  early  life  been  tutor  in 
the  Cavendish  family,  found  here  an  asylum  in  his  declining 
years,  and  here  also  after  being  more  or  less  domesticated 
with  the  family  for  nearly  seventy  years,  this  eccentric  man, 
who  with  all  his  philosophy,  would  never  allow  himself  to  be 
left  in  the  dark,  died,  or  as  he  himself  terms  it,  "  crept  out  of 
the  world,"  at  the  advanced  age  of  ninety-one  years.  He  was 
buried  at  the  little  church  of  Ault  Hucknall  close  by;  an 
edifice,  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  one  of  the  ancient  stone 
churches,  built  by  the  Saxons. 

Thus  much  for  the  noble  Hall  of  Hardwick,  its  history,  its 
present  state,  and  its  associations.  Having  refreshed  myself 
at  the  little  Inn  below  the  Hall,  kept  by  the  loquacious  and 
obliging  Mrs.  Riggott,  I  proceeded  through  a  highly  cultivated 
and  beautiful  country  to 

BOLSOVER  CASTLE 

distant  perhaps  three  miles  from  Hardwick,  another  ancient 
seat  of  the  princely  Cavendishes,  now  the  property  of  the 
Duke  of  Portland,  and  occupied  by  the  Rev.  Hamilton  Gray, 
the  present  highly  esteemed  and  accomplished  incumbent  of 
Bolsover. 

The  town  of  Bolsover,  which  is  about  eight  miles  from  Mans- 
field, is  a  quiet  ancient  looking  place,  and  was  at  one  time  of 
sufficient  importance  to  rank  as  a  market  town.  It  is  spoken 
of  as  such  so  early  as  1225.  The  market  was  held  on  Fri- 
day, but  was  discontinued  about  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth 
century. 

The  manor  is  copyhold,  of  a  similar  tenure  to  that  of  Mans- 

F 


62 

field.     His  Grace  the  Duke  of  Portland  being  the  present 
Lord. 

The  "Bolsover  buckles,"  which  were  held  in  so  much 
repute  by  our  grandfathers,  were  formerly  made  here  in  great 
quantities.  Their  celebrity  arose  from  a  peculiar  process  of 
case-hardening,  which  not  only  enabled  the  manufacturer  to 
impart  a  most  brilliant  polish,  but  also  rendered  them  of  so 
exceedingly  good  temper,  that  it  was  said  a  loaded  cart  might 
pass  over  a  Bolsover  buckle  without  injuring  its  shape. 

The  church  is  a  plain  Norman  structure  with  a  tower  and 
low  spire,  and  is  dedicated  to  Saint  Mary.  The  present  value 
of  the  living  being  about  ^8130  ^  annum.  In  the  interior 
are  some  elaborate  and  costly  monuments  to  several  members 
of  the  Cavendish  family. 

On  approaching  the  town  from  the  Glapwell  road,  the  most 
glorious  scenery  lay  extended  before  me,  as  all  at  once  I  found 
myself  on  the  very  ridge  of  a  range  of  hills  which  fell  some- 
what precipitately  from  where  I  stood  and  formed  with  a  cor- 
responding range  rising  in  the  distance  a  long  sweeping  valley, 
of  the  greatest  extent,  variety,  and  beauty.  To  the  extreme 
left,  the  noble  woods  and  lofty  turrets  of  the  hall  I  had  just 
visited  rose  in  grandeur ;  the  village  of  Heath  with  Sutton  Hall, 
the  seat  of  one  of  the  Arkwright's  formed  a  pleasing  front ; 
and  with  the  vast  iron  districts  of  Staveley  and  Renishaw  on 
the  right,  completed  a  magnificent  panorama ;  the  noble  hills  of 
the  Peak  and  the  Yorkshire  moors  extending  themselves  as  a 
misty-shaded  back  ground  along  the  distant  horizon.  The 
varied  and  glowing  tints  of  a  rich  autumnal  foliage  although 
somewhat  sad  precursors  of  approaching  winter  added  greatly 
to  the  beauty  of  the  charming  landscape. 

On  nearer  acquaintance,  the  town  bears  evident  traces  of 


63 

having  been  at  some  period  of  its  history  strongly  fortified. 
I  found  the  Castle  all  I  had  been  led  to  expect. 

"  A  mighty  maze  but  not  without  a  plan." 

There  is  no  doubt  that  William  de  Peverell  (to  whom  the 
manor  was  granted  by  his  father  William  the  Conqueror)  built 
a  Castle  at  Bolsover,  and  there  is  still  a  road,  called  the 
Peverell  road,  leading  in  direction  of  South  Wingfield,  where 
he  possessed  a  manor  house.  The  ancient  Castle  formed  one 
of  the  strong-holds  of  the  disaffected  Barons,  during  part  of 
the  troublesome  reign  of  King  John,  but  it  was  at  length 
reduced  by  Ferrars,  Earl  of  Derby,  who  was  afterwards  ap- 
pointed its  governor. 

In  1552,  Edward  the  sixth  granted  a  lease  of  the  manor  to 
Sir  John  Byron,  and  two  years  afterwards  granted  the  same 
in  fee  to  the  Talbots,  by  whom  it  was  leased  in  1608  to  Sir 
Charles  Cavendish  for  1000  years,  at  a  rent  of  ^£10  ^  annum, 
and  in  1613,  he  bought  the  manor;  the  purchase  deed  being 
enrolled  in  chancery  on  the  20th  August  that  year. 

At  that  time  the  Castle  was  in  ruins,  but  there  was  even 
then  too  much  mettle  in  the  Cavendish  blood  to  allow  it  to 
continue  so,  consequently  the  same  year  Sir  Charles  commenced 
the  erection  of  the  present  mansion,  under  the  superintendance 
of  Huntingdon  Smithson,  who  was  sent  to  Italy  by  the  mu- 
nificent owner  expressly  to  collect  materials  for  his  designs. 
This  celebrated  architect,  died  at  Bolsover  in  1648,  and  was 
buried  in  the  chancel  of  the  church. 

A  great  portion  of  the  buildings  then  erected  are  now  in 
ruins,  but  there  is  nothing  particularly  picturesque  in  their 
appearance,  which  partakes  more  of  the  effect  produced  by 
having  being  dismantled  by  careful  workmen,  than  of  succumb- 


64 

ing  to  the  ravages  of  time ;  the  massive  grey  walls  being  still 
as  firm  and  free  from  decay  as  can  well  be  imagined. 

Some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  style  and  magnitude  of 
this  splendid  range  of  buildings,  from  the  fact,  that  one  gal- 
lery now  standing,  measures  220  feet  in  length,  by  28  feet  in 
width.  The  dining  room  was  78  feet  by  33  feet,  and  a  lodg- 
ing room  36  feet  by  33  feet,  the  out  buildings  are  in  propor- 
tion, the  whole  range  measuring  2/6  feet  from  the  east  corner 
of  the  house. 

It  was  in  these  noble  rooms  tjiat  William,  the  right  loyal 
and  princely  Earl  of  Newcastle  (A.  D.  1634)  entertained  King 
Charles  the  first  and  his  Queen  on  a  scale  of  magnificence, 
seldom  if  ever  equalled  in  the  annals  of  Baronial  liberality,  in 
fact,  according  to  the  Duchess  of  Newcastle's  memoirs  of  her 
husband,  it  cost  him  no  less  a  sum  than  from  14  to  £  15, 000  ! 
The  table  linen  alone  cost  £1 60.  On  this  occasion,  Ben 
Jonson  was  employed  as  a  sort  of  master  of  the  ceremonies  to 
prepare  the  speeches  and  scenes,  and  Welbeck  Abbey  was  set 
apart  for  their  Majesty's  lodgings. 

Having  alluded  to  the  munificence  of  the  first  Earl  of  New- 
castle, it  may  be  interesting  to  mention  the  extent  of  his 
resources  and  the  generous  sacrifices  he  made  in  support  of 
his  Royal  Master's  cause. 

From  the  memoirs  of  the  Duchess,  it  appears  that  in  the 
year  1649,  when  the  King  found  it  necessary  to  raise  an  army 
to  subdue  the  disaffected  Scotch,  the  Earl  of  Newcastle  find- 
ing his  Majesty's  exchequer  exhausted,  generously  lent  his 
Majesty  .£10,000,  and  raised  a  troop  of  horse  consisting  of 
one  hundred  and  twenty  gentlemen,  (which  was  afterwards 
called  the  Prince  of  Wales'  troop),  all  well  equipped,  and  each 
attended  by  his  own  servant  without  charge  to  the  King. 


65 

His  Lordship  also  fortified  and  garrisoned  the  town  of  New- 
castle, Bolsover  Castle,  and  other  places  at  his  own  expense, 
and  gained  many  advantages  over  the  parliamentary  forces. 
By  a  survey  made  of  his  estates  in  1641,  he  possessed  a  rent 
roll  of  £22,393.  9s.  3d.  a  prodigious  income  for  those  days. 

After  the  murder  of  the  King,  these  splendid  estates  were 
placed  by  the  parliament  under  a  sequestration,  the  Earl  him- 
self having  fled  to  Antwerp,  where  he  chiefly  resided  until 
his  return  to  England  at  the  restoration. 

The  Duchess  computes  her  husband's  losses  consequent 
upon  those  unhappy  and  disgraceful  struggles  at  no  less  than 
56941,303.  Os.  Od.  for  which  she  thus  accounts : 

The  loss  of  his  estates  during  the  civil  war  and  his 
banishment,  amounted  with  interest  to 

Estates  actually  lost,  producing  an  annual  income  1 
of  565229,  she  estimates  at J 

Sold  for  payment  of  his  debts ^656,000 

Value  of  his  woods  which  were  cut  down ^645, 000 


Grand  total 30941,303 

What  a  melancholy  picture  does  this  statement  present, 
of  the  troubles  and  adversities  which  then  so  heavily  oppressed 
our  land,  and  how  fervent  ought  our  aspirations  to  be  for 
deliverance  "  from  all  sedition,  privy  conspiracy  and  rebellion." 
Although  Bolsover  Castle  was  strongly  fortified,  and  well 
provided  for  by  the  Earl  of  Newcastle,  it  could  not  withstand 
the  overpowering  influence,  openly  and  covertly,  of  the  vic- 
torious Puritans,  and  it  surrendered  upon  honorable  terms  to 
Major  General  Crawford,  in  1644.  From  the  account  of  its 
capture  it  appears  to  have  been  well  manned,  strongly  fortified 
with  great  guns,  "one  whereof  carried  eighteen  pound  bullets," 
and  was  well  stored  with  ammunition  and  provisions.  One 
F  3 


66 

hundred  and  twenty  muskets,  two  mortars,  nine  barrels  of 
powder,  besides  pikes,  halberts,  drakes,  matches,  &c.  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  victors,  who  bestowed  great  pains  in  demo- 
lishing this  splendid  edifice,  in  order  as  well  to  enrich  them- 
selves as  to  shew  their  spleen  against  the  noble  and  loyal  owner. 

After  the  restoration  some  feeble  attempts  were  made  by 
the  Earl,  by  this  time  created  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  to  repair 
the  injuries  the  fabric  had  sustained,  but  with  a  shattered  for- 
tune and  advancing  years,  a  total  restoration  was  not  attempt- 
ed. Enough  was  accomplished  however  to  enable  various 
branches  of  the  family  to  reside  there,  but  as  this  took  place 
during  a  time  in  which  is  little  worthy  of  record,  it  is  sufficient 
to  mention  that  this  and  several  other  estates,  including 
Mansfield  and  Welbeck,  descended  from  that  noble  branch  of 
the  Cavendishes  through  those  of  Holies  and  Harley  to  the 
present  owner  and  Lord  of  the  Manor,  His  Grace  the  Duke 
of  Portland. 

As  before  stated,  the  only  part  of  the  Castle  now  occupied 
is  the  residence  of  the  Rev.  J.  H.  Gray,  and  is  not  shewn  to 
casual  visitors  when  the  family  are  at  home.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  what  is  termed  the  star  chamber,  there  is  little  perhaps 
beyond  the  glorious  prospects  from  the  windows  to  interest 
the  visitor. 

The  gardens  belonging  to  the  Castle  are  pretty  though  small, 
and  are  graced  with  a  classically  designed  fountain  of  elaborate 
work,  ornamented  with  the  busts  in  alabaster  of  eight  of  the 
Roman  Emperors,  and  a  statue  of  Venus  in  the  act  of  getting 
out  of  a  bath  with  wet  drapery  in  her  hand,  but  the  water  which 
once  played  around  the  lovely  goddess  has  long  ceased  to 
dance  and  sparkle  at  her  feet. 

And  here  I  must  conclude  my  account  of  Hardwick  and 


67 

Bolsover,  once  places  of  almost  regal  splendour,  and  now  so 
interesting,  that  no  lover  of  either  his  country's  history,  or  of 
the  picturesque  in  scenery  ought,  if  "within  a  day's  march," 
to  neglect  visiting. 

To  vary  the  ramble,  I  returned  to  Mansfield  by  way  of  the 
village  of  Houghton,  and  so  to  the  charming  little  valley  of 
Pleasley  Forge,  where  'I  found  two  spacious  and  noble  looking 
cotton  mills,  recently  erected  Phrenix-like,  upon  the  ashes  of 
their  more  humble  predecessors,  which  by  a  singular  fatality 
were  burnt  down  within  a  few  years  of  each  other,  to  the  great 
loss  of  several  insurance  offices. 

Leaving  this  valley  with  its  busy  mills  and  lakes,  its  stately 
swans  and  richly  wooded  declivities,  I  passed  the  spot  celebrated 
as  being  the  site  of  two  Roman  villas  of  considerable  pretensions, 
which  were  discovered  by  Major  Rooke,  in  1 786,  and  of  which 
he  sent  an  interesting  account  to  the  Antiquarian  Society, 
(vide  Archseologia,  vol.  8,  p.  363),  but  nothing  is  now  to  be 
seen  save  the  ruins  of  a  wall,  which  the  Major  in  his  Antiqua- 
rian zeal  caused  to  be  erected  over  the  spot,  in  order  to  pro- 
tect the  remains  from  that  total  annihilation,  which  notwith- 
standing has  long  since  been  their  fate. 

Passing  on,  I  soon  reached  the  village  of 

MANSFIELD  WOODHOUSE, 

an  ancient  and  respectable  little  place,  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  Mansfield,  and  once  the  seat  of  the  Digby  family,  eminent 
for  their  loyalty  and  zeal  in  the  service  of  the  first  Charles. 

The  church  in  this  village  is  of  great  antiquity.  It  is  dedi- 
cated to  Saint  Edmund,  and  so  early  as  1304  appears  to  have 
suffered  by  fire,  after  which  the  steeple,  previously  of  timber, 
was  rebuilt  with  stone,  of  which  there  are  several  quarries  in 


the  parish  consisting  chiefly  of  that  durable  kind,  called  mag- 
nesian  limestone. 

On  approaching  the  church  I  found  to  my  delight  that  the 
spirit  of  restoration  had  been  abroad  in  her  purest  form,  the 
whole  body  of  the  church  being  in  course  of  rebuilding  in  a 
most  admirable  manner. 

The  tower  records  show  that  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the 
sixth,  Sir  Robert  Plumbton  held  one  bovate  in  this  parish,  by 
the  service  of  winding  a  horn  to  frighten  the  wolves  away  from 
the  town,  which  at  that  time  was  (like  Mansfield)  surrounded 
by  a  densely  wooded  forest.  There  is  still  a  large  tract  of 
forest  belonging  to  this  parish,  but  an  act  of  parliament  has 
been  obtained  during  the  last  session  for  its  enclosure.  The 
inhabitants  of  Mansfield  are  applying  for  similar  powers  with 
regard  to  that  part  of  the  forest  lying  within  their  parish,  so 
that  ere  long  the  heath  covered  hills  of  old  Sherwood  will  be 
clad  with  verdure,  and  the  waving  cornfields  will  usurp  the 
place  of  the  graceful  ferns  (filices),  or  the  still  more  pleasing 
golden  crested*  ulex  Europceus,  furze,  gorse,  or  whin,  which 
ever  you  please  to  call  it. 

Thus  it  has  remained  for  the  utilitarians  of  the  nineteenth 
century  to  demolish  the  last  remnant  of  "  merrie  Shirewood," 
the  most  ancient,  most  extensive,  and  decidedly  most  interest- 
ing of  all  the  royal  forests. 

*  See  Appendix,  Note  2. 


LETTER  IV. 


WATER  MEADOWS,  ETC. 

)NXIOUS  to  see  the  ruins  of  King  John's  palace,  and 
that  splendid  vestige  of  ancient  Sherwood  called  Birkland, 
I  set  out  at  day-break  in  the  direction  of  what  is  generally 
called  the  Flood  Dyke,  and  by  its  side  on  a  private  road  of  the 
Duke  of  Portland's,  leading  from  near  Mansfield  for  several 
miles  through  his  Grace's  estates.  It  proved  both  a  lovely 
and  an  interesting  walk,  inasmuch  as  it  displayed  a  system  of 
irrigation  which  although  the  work  of  one  individual,  may  safely 
take  its  stand  as  one  of  the  most  important  and  comprehensive 
ever  recorded  in  the  annals  of  agricultural  improvement.  A 
man  of  ordinary  mind  and  means  might  have  shrunk  from 
such  an  undertaking  with  dismay,  but  the  indomitable  per- 
severance of  this  noble  projector,  has  enabled  him  to  overcome 
every  obstacle,  and  to  reap  the  reward  of  a  long  and  honorable 
life  passed  in  improving  his  estates,  and  in  developing  the 
productive  resources  of  the  district. 

The  waters  of  the  river  Man,  after  turning  the  thousands  of 
spindles  which  whirl  and  dance  over  its  stream,  are  diverted 
from  their  natural  channel  by  means  of  an  artificial  canal 
to  a  much  higher  level  parallel  to,  but  at  some  distance 


70 

from  the  bed  of  the  river,  by  which  means  the  land  lying  be- 
tween the  two  streams,  that  is,  between  the  natural  river  and 
artificial  the  one  can  be  with  the  assistance  of  the  shuttles, 
carriers.  &c.  readily  irrigated  at  pleasure. 

These  are  the  apparently  perfectly  simple  and  successful 
means  adopted,  and  it  is  when  considered  how  comprehensively 
they  are  carried  out,  and  that  the  land  was  formerly  rough, 
boggy,  and  valueless,  that  the  scheme  and  its  effects  can  be 
thoroughly  appreciated,  and  no  lover  of  agriculture  can  look 
upon  the  now  verdant  meadows  and  luxuriant  pastures  which 
meet  his  gaze  in  long  and  pleasing  succession,  without  the 
very  highest  admiration  and  even  wonder. 

His  Grace  first  commenced  this  system  of  improvement 
about  thirty-six  years  ago,  and  has  had  I  believe,  a  staff  of  men 
locally  called  "  the  Duke's  navigators,"  more  or  less  employed 
ever  since,  so^  that  at  the  present  time  his  flood-meadows 
represent  an  amount  of  capital  invested  for  improvement 
literally  astonishing. 

Thinking  the  particulars  of  these  works  might  interest  you, 
I  obtained  them  from  an  authentic  source  by  the  courtesy  of 
a  friend,  and  now  send  them  merely  premising  that,  independ- 
ently of  the  formation  of  the  "King's  Mill"  dam  (named  hi  a 
previous  letter)  these  beautiful  works  have  cost  upwards  of 
one  hundred  pounds  ^  acre  1 

These  then  were  His  Grace  the  Duke  of  Portland's  water 
meadows,  in  the  county  of  Nottingham,  on  the  25th  October, 
1849. 

A.         E.      P. 

In  Clipstone  and  Clipstone  Park,  called  Clipstone loin     o  i  o 
water  meadows    ] 

In  Mansfield  Woodhouse,  called  Mansfield  Wood- 1    ,--     j  2(j 
house  water  meadows j 


71 

A.          R.      P. 

In  Mansfield  and  Sutton,  called  High  Oakhaml    ~-     i   04 
water  meadows    j 

At  Lindhurst,  called  Lindhurst  water  meadow    . .    48     2     3 

In  Gleadthorpe  (Warsop  Parish),  called  Glead-1    ?*     «     « 
thorpe  water  meadow J 

In  Carburton,  called  Carburton  water  meadow    . .    56     0  27 

In  Welbeck  and  Norton,  called  the  Kennel  water] 
meadows J  33 

making  a  grand  total  of. 586     0  34 

To  this  statement  may  be  added  a  large  extent  now  forming 
at  Cuckney,  and  a  further  one  at  Milnthorpe,  in  Norton  town- 
ship. 

In  the  words  of  the  Rev.  J.  Curtis  "  the  value  of  this  pro- 
ject is  very  perceptible,  during  its  whole  length  a  perennial 
fertility  is  maintained,  and  luxuriant  crops  of  grass  and  clover 
flourish  over  a  district  where  comparative  sterility  once  reigned 
in  absolute  and  apparently  interminable  power.  If  it  has  not 
already,  it  will  in  time  amply  repay  the  immense  outlay  incur- 
red in  uVformation." 

Proceeding  for  several  miles  through  these  verdant  mea- 
dows by  the  lower  road,  which  is  on  the  edge  of  a  charming 
little  trout  stream,  I  then  passed  through  a  wood  of  stately 
young  oaks,  called  Cavendish  wood,  and  shortly  found  myself 
close  to  the  stack  yard  and  buildings  of  the  Lodge  in  Clipstone 
park  (built  on  the  site  of  a  former  mansion,  part  of  the  remains 
of  which  are  incorporated  with  the  present  edifice)  and  used  as 
the  farm  house,  which  with  its  spacious  and  convenient  ap- 
pendages, its  ingenious  excellent  and  numerous  implements,  is 
altogether  an  object  of  high  and  pleasing  gratification.  Dean 
Swift  has  observed  that  he  is  the  best  patriot  who  causes 


72 

two  ears  of  wheat  to  grow  where  one  grew  before.  The 
noble  proprietor  of  this  domain  has  done  more — he  has  dis- 
pensed upon  a  district  of  rigid  barrenness  the  grateful  aspect 
of  verdure  and  abundance.  Nobility  well  deserves  its  honors, 
its  privileges,  its  influence,  and  its  authority,  when  its  revenues 
are  thus  expended  in  "scattering  blessings  over  a  smiling 
land." 

Leaving  this  interesting  farm  yard  with  its  healthy,  well  clad 
labourers,  majestic  horses,  implements  in  endless  variety,  first 
rate  stock,  its  unequalled  stack  yard,  its  host  of  one  horse 
carts  and  Dutch  barns,  I  entered  the  little  rural  happy  looking 
village  of 

CLIPSTONE. 

I  say  happy  looking,  and  when  I  tell  you  that  the  labourer's 
cottages  have  all  the  neatness  and  beauty  of  country  villas, 
with  their  trellised  porches,  climbing  honeysuckles  and  blush- 
ing roses,  in  addition  to  gardens,  homesteads,  and  cottage 
cows,  you  will  think  that  I  use  the  term  advisedly.  This 
village  although  now  a  comparatively  obscure  hamlet,  was 
evidently  at  one  time  a  place  of  much  importance ;  some 
writers  even  asserting  that  during  the  Saxon  heptarchy  a  palace 
was  built,  and  occupied  by  one  of  the  Kings  of  Northumber- 
land, be  this  as  it  may,  it  is  certain  that  it  was  a  Royal  manor, 
and  possessed  a  Royal  residence,  very  soon  after  the  Norman 
conquest,  and  that  it  was  a  frequent  and  favorite  residence 
of  King  John.  It  was  also  here  that  the  lion-hearted  Richard 
received  the  congratulations  of  the  King  of  Scotland  on  his 
return  from  the  Crusades.  These  incidents  are  enough  to 
clothe  the  place  with  more  than  ordinary  interest.  I  there- 
fore eagerly  sought  out  all  that  remains  of  the  Palace  ruins, 
and  found  in  an  arable  field  surrounded  by  a  contented  flock 


73 

of  forest  sheep,  a  pile  of  thick  and  rugged  walls,  perforated 
with  what  were  once  no  doubt  richly  traced  gothic  windows. 
This  remnant  still  frowns  upon  the  storm  and  defies  its  power, 
and  may  if  permitted,  endure  for  ages  to  come,  for  I  found 
on  examination  that  the  walls  are  composed  of  small  pieces 
of  the  imperishable  magnesian  limestone,  and  a  concrete  as 
hard  and  durable  as  that  by  which  the  massive  foundations  of 
the  discovered  Roman  remains  are  generally  cemented. 

Although  this  place  has  been  by  some  writers  designated  a 
mere  "  hunting  box,"  there  can  be  no  doubt  it  was  from  its 
magnitude  more  deserving  of  the  name  of  a  Palace,  for  in 
addition  to  the  incidents  connected  with  its  history  already 
stated,  I  find  that  not  only  are  several  of  the  Royal  grants  to 
Nottingham  and  elsewhere  dated  from  it,but  also  that  in  1290, 
King  Edward  the  first  held  a  parliament  or  royal  council 
here ;  and  immense  cellars  and  extensive  foundations  near 
the  present  ruins  existed  but  a  few  years  ago. 

On  a  bold  bleak  eminence  some  distance  from  the  "Palace" 
ruins,  stands  another  structure  which  although  of  modern  date, 
is  not  the  least  attractive  feature  of  this  district.  This  is  a 
beautiful  gothic  Lodge  recently  erected,  and  called  by  the 
villagers  "  the  Duke's  Archway,"  a  name  by  the  bye  hardly 
calculated  to  attract  the  notice  its  beauty  will  well  repay.  As  it 
lay  however  in  the  most  direct  route  for  Birkland,  I  made  a  virtue 
of  necessity  and  paid  the  Archway  a  visit,  little  expecting  to 
find  a  building  rich  in  decoration,  perfect  in  its  various  styles 
of  architecture  (for  it  is  scarcely  pure  gothic)  admirably  ap- 
propriate to  its  situation  and  purpose,  and  displaying  that  taste 
and  refinement  in  details  for  which  its  eminent  architects 
(Scott  and  Moffatt)  are  so  justly  celebrated. 

The  first  stone  was  laid  in  June,  1842,  and  the  building 

G 


74 

was  completed  in  1844,  under  the  able  superintendence  of 
Mr.  Lindley,  whose  eminence  and  taste  as  a  builder  I  have 
before  had  occasion  to  allude  to.  It  is  built  of  the  beautiful 
limestone  found  at  Mansfield  Woodhouse,  the  surface  of  which 
being  highly  dressed,  its  countless  magnesian  particles  glitter 
in  the  sun  as  if  sprinkled  with  diamond  dust. 

CLIPSTONE  LODGE 


In  the  centre,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  drawing  is  a  noble 
carriage  way,  and  on  either  side  are  comfortable  dwellings, 
while  the  principal  room  which  is  over  the  archway,  is  dedi- 
cated by  its  noble  founder  to  the  cause  of  education,  for  the 
benefit  of  the  villagers  of  Clipstone. 

The  prospects  from  this  room  are  most  beautiful,  including 


75 

Birkland  with  its  thousand  aged  oaks,  the  venerable  church  of 
Edwinstowe,  and  a  wide  expanse  of  splendid  forest  scenery. 
Some  of  these  views  have  been  recently  taken  by  a  London 
artist  for  His  Grace,  and  the  paintings,  which  are  of  large  di- 
mensions, adorn  the  walls  of  the  school. 

Placed  in  the  very  centre  of  the  locality  identified  with  their 
exploits,  the  Duke  has  happily  adopted  this  tasteful  work,  to 
commemorate  the  heroes  of  the  famous  "  Garland/'  for 


our  gpactou*  fele  3t  tln'nfc  t£ere  te  not  one 
33ut  j&e  of  &o6m  $ootr  jfcQ  fceartr,  antr  Utttle 
&nlr  to  tlje  entr  of  time,  tBe  taleg  sbzll  ne'er  fce  tone 
<®l  Jrrarlet,  (&eorge*a*<&reen,  antr  iHud^,  t&e  mtller*^  gon  ; 
(0f  Cucfc  t^e  merrg  frtar,  ieijtc^  mang  a  sermon  ntalfe 
$n  prafee  of  Mofiin  l^ootr,  \)i&  outlaid  antr  t^efr  tralre," 

In  three  niches  on  the  south  side  of  this  elegant  exterior  are 
beautiful  and  characteristic  statues  in  Caen  stone,  of  the 
redoubted  Outlaw  himself,  his  friend  scarcely  less  famous 
Little  John,  and  the  loving  and  devoted  Maid  Marian,  or  Clo- 
rinda;  whilst  looking  northward,  stand  the  lion-hearted 
Richard,  the  Merry  Friar,  and  the  brave  and  gentle  minstrel 
Allan-a-dale.  As  works  of  mechanical  art,  these  figures  are 
worthy  of  high  admiration,  but  most  so  is  the  happy  realization 
of  the  ideal  of  these  sylvan  heroes.  Four  hares  (symbolic  of 
the  chase)  are  placed  at  intervals,  whilst  over  the  eastern  and 
western  door-ways  and  surrounding  the  Ducal  arms,  are  two 
significant  mottos  from  the  well  known  lines  of  Horace. 

Tu  secanda  marmora 

Locas  sub  ipsum  funus,  et  Sepulchri, 
Immemor  struis  domos  : 

Lib.  2.  Car,  18.  V.  17. 


76 

Leaving  the  Lodge  and  following  the  course  of  a  wide  grassy 
road  extending  for  miles,  known  as  the  Duke's  drive,  I  soon 
entered  that  noble  vestige  of  the  ancient  forest  called  Birkland, 
which  with  the  adjoining  wood  of  Bilhagh,  was  granted  by  the 
Crown  to  the  Duke  of  Portland,  in  exchange  for  the  perpetual 
advowson  of  St.  Mary-le-bone.  The  former,  containing  94  7| 
acres,  still  belongs  to  his  Grace,  but  the  latter,  which  lies 
nearer  the  Thoresby  estates,  was  conveyed  by  exchange  to 
Earl  Manvers,  in  lieu  of  estates  at  Holbeck  and  Bonbusk, 
contiguous  to  that  of  "Welbeck  Abbey. 

In  the  reign  of  King  John  the  Abbey  of  Welbeck  appro- 
priated six  acres,  and  one  Robert  Lesington  eight  acres,  and 
in  1 290  the  same  Abbey  obtained  a  grant  of  free  warren. 

By  a  survey  made  in  1609,  there  were  found  to  be  21,009 
oak  trees  in  Birkland,  and  28,900  in  Bilhagh,  and  they  were 
in  general  even  at  that  time  past  maturity.  In  104  years,  that 
is,  from  1686  to  1790,  there  had  been  cut  down  no  less  than 
27, 199  trees! 

The  indefatigable  Major  Rooke  published  "descriptions 
and  sketches"  of  some  remarkable  oaks  in  this  locality. 
From  this  account  it  appears  that  in  cutting  down  some 
trees  in  the  Hays  of  Birkland  and  Bilhagh,  letters  were  found 
cut  or  stamped  in  the  body  of  the  trees  marking  the  King's 
reign.  One  with  the  letters  I.  R,  about  one  foot  within  the 
tree  and  the  same  distance  from  the  centre.  These  the  Major 
concludes  were  for  James  Rex.  Another  contained  W.  M. 
and  a  crown,  about  nine  inches  within  the  tree  and  three  feet 
three  inches  from  the  centre,  these  he  thinks  were  for  William 
and  Mary.  A  third  contained  the  letter  I.  with  an  imperfect 
impression  of  a  blunt  radiated  crown,  resembling  those  repre- 
sented in  old  prints  on  the  head  of  King  John.  These  were 


77 

eighteen  inches  within  the  tree,  and  above  a  foot  from  the 
centre,  and  the  Major  presumes  were  cut  or  stamped  upon  the 
outside  of  the  tree  during  the  reign  of  King  John.  Two  of 
these  trees  were  felled  in  1786,  the  other  1791.  "This  ex- 
tensive grove  of  ancient  and  majestic  oaks,"  says  Major  Rooke, 
"is  beautifully  diversified  by  the  slender  and  pendant  branches 
of  the  silver-coated  birch,  with  which  this  wood  abounds. 
Many  of  these  remarkable  oaks  are  of  great  antiquity,  one  may 
venture  to  say  a  thousand  years  old.  Several  of  them  measure 
above  thirty-four  feet  in  circumference,  and  notwithstanding 
the  hollowness  of  their  trunks,  their  tops  and  lateral  branches 
are  rich  in  foliage." 

Although  the  woodman's  work  of  destruction  has  progressed 
rapidly  since  Major  Rooke' s  time,  many  of  these  ancient 
picturesque  denizens  of  the  forest  are  yet  left  to  us.  Per- 
haps of  these,  the  two  most  remarkable  are  the  "major  oak" 
and  the  "butcher's  shambles,"  both  of  enormous  proportions, 
the  major  being  ninety  feet  in  circumference,  and  his  branches 
covering  a  diameter  of  240  feet!  The  "butcher's  sham- 
bles" has  been  said  to  be  the  identical  tree  wherein  Robin 
Hood  kept  his  venison  !  but  this,  though  popularly  credited, 
will  hardly  meet  your  belief,  and  in  fact  all  it  can  legitimately 
boast  of  in  this  way  is,  that  it  was  the  depository  of 
the  mutton  unlawfully  slaughtered  in  the  wood  by  a  daring 
and  notorious  sheep  stealer,  who  many  years  ago  nourished 
at  the  neighbouring  village  of  Clipstone!  But  though  I 
dispel  the  savory  legend  connected  with  this  tree,  I  have  no 
wish  to  underrate  its  really  surprising  bulk,  on  which  alone  it 
may  be  content  to  rest  its  claims  to  notice. 

Another,  and  perhaps  the  most  interesting  tree  of  the  dis- 
trict, is  the  "parliament  oak,"  which  stands  a  short  distance 
G  3 


78 

from  Birkland,  on  the  turnpike  road  leading  to  Mansfield  from 
Ollerton.  With  a  massive  trunk  shattered  and  rent  asunder, 
bereft  of  his  noble  arms,  branchless,  and  decrepit,  this  patriarch 
of  the  forest,  once  of  sufficient  consequence  to  invite  even 
Royalty  beneath  his  shade,  now  leans  for  support  against 
the  sturdy  props  with  which  he  has  been  surrounded. 

This  aged  tree  bears  the  distinguished  name  of  the  parlia- 
ment oak,  from  the  well  authenticated  fact,  that  beneath  its 
wide-spreading  branches  King  John  and  his  Barons  held  a 
brief  but  earnest  consultation,  in  consequence  of  intelligence 
having  been  brought  to  the  Royal  party  (whilst  hunting  in 
Clipstone  park)  of  a  second  revolt  of  the  Welsh.  This  took 
place  in  1212,  and  the  first  result  was,  according  to  Rapin, 
the  execution  of  twenty-eight  Welsh  Hostages,  then  confined 
in  Nottingham  Castle. 

Passing  through  the  village  of  Edwinstowe,  which  is  most 
charmingly  situate  within  the  very  midst  of  the  forest,  and 
which  boasts  an  ancient  though  recently  restored  church, 
with  a  tall  and  somewhat  graceful  spire,  I  was  not  long  e're  I 
reached  the  ancient 

ABBEY  OF  RUFFORD 

Here  indeed  is  one  of  nature's  sweetest  solitudes,  where  no 
sound  is  heard  save  the  melody  of  the  woodland  songsters, 
the  hurried  splash  of  the  water  fowl,  and  the  low  booming  of 
the  venerable  corn  mill  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  where,  acccord- 
ing  to  tradition,  the  holy  fathers  of  Rufford  were  wont  to 
resort  for  the  purpose  of  grinding  their  corn. 

The  estates  of  Rufford  or  Rugforde,  were  previous  to  the 
Norman  conquest,  held  by  Ulf  a  Saxon  Thane,  but  after  that 
period,  passed  to  Gilbert  de  Gaunt,  nephew  of  the  conqueror, 


79 

whose  grandson  Gilbert,  having  been  created  Earl  of  Lincoln, 
founded  in  1148  on  his  Rufford  estate  an  Abbey  for  monks  of 
the  Cistercian  order,  and  in  honor  of  the  blessed  Virgin  Mary. 
It  was  endowed  with  the  lands  of  Ruiford  and  other  estates, 
colonised  by  monks  brought  by  the  founder  from  Rivaulx 
Abbey  in  Yorkshire.  Few  remains  of  the  holy  brotherhood 
can  now  be  traced  save  the  noble  building  they  inhabited, 
the  history  of  both  superiors  and  inferiors,  abbot  and  monk, 
being,  like  their  mortal  remains,  hidden  in  dust  and  obscurity. 

At  the  period  of  the  destruction  of  monastic  houses  by 
Henry  the  eighth,  only  fifteen  monks  were  found  in  the  Abbey, 
with  an  annual  revenue  of  56254.  After  their  expulsion,  the 
Abbey,  together  with  the  estate,  were  granted  by  the  King  to 
George,  Earl  of  Shrewsbury,  in  exchange  for  some  estates  in 
Ireland.  They  passed  by  the  marriage  of  the  grand-daughter 
of  the  Earl  of  Shrewsbury  to  Sir  George  Saville,  of  Barrowby, 
in  Lincolnshire,  from  whom  they  have  descended  to  the  pre- 
sent noble  owner  The  right  Honorable  John  Lumley  Saville, 
eighth  Earl  of  Scarbrough,  Viscount  and  Baron  Lumley,  and 
Lord  Lieutenant  of  Nottinghamshire,  who  makes  Ruiford  his 
principal  seat,  and  to  whom  it  is  much  indebted  for  its  resto- 
ration and  present  beauty. 

The  interior  has  many  attractions,  amongst  which  is  shewn 
the  room  used  by  George  the  fourth,  on  his  visit  to  Rufford, 
when  Prince  Regent,  and  to  whose  honor  the  then  noble  owner 
made  Rufford  Abbey  as  it  were  an  "  open  house,"  and  caused 
the  whole  domain  to  resound  with  amusement,  festivity,  and 
joy.  Apropos  of  his  Royal  visit  to  Rufford,  I  may  tell  you 
that  the  elder  Dibdin  was  engaged  as  a  sort  of  master  of  the 
ceremonies.  During  one  of  those  delightful  rambles  in  the 
neighbouring  woods  of  which  the  Poet  frequently  availed  him- 


80 

self,  he  was  struck  with  the  occupation  and  manner  of  an  aged 
woodman,  beneath  whose  axe  a  venerable  oak  had  just  fallen. 
This  common-place  incident,  although  trifling  in  itself,  was 
not  lost  upon  the  sensitive  mind  of  Dibdin,  it  in  fact  gave  rise 
to  his  celebrated  song  "The  Woodman's  Stroke,"  which  was 
first  sung  by  the  author  on  one  of  the  evenings  during  the 
Prince's  stay  at  Ruff  or  d. 

Some  four  pleasant  miles  from  Rufford  stands  the  less  in- 
teresting, but  more  splendid  residence  called 

THORESBY 

the  residence  of  that  best  of  landlords  the  generous,  warm 
hearted  Sailor-Lord,  Earl  Manvers. 

This  mansion  was  built  by  the  last  Duke  of  Kingston,  on 
the  site  of  the  old  house  which  was  burnt  down  on  the  4th  of 
March,  1745.  It  is  a  brick  erection,  standing  upon  a  rusti- 
cated stone  basement,  and  the  principal  front  is  adorned  with 
a  beautiful  stone  portico  of  the  Ionic  order. 

There  is  a  tone  of  grandeur  and  magnificence  about  the 
interior  arrangements  of  this  residence  well  calculated  to 
gratify  the  visitor,  but  both  time  and  space  will  prevent  me 
from  giving  you  a  detailed  account  of  its  respective  internal 
attractions. 

The  court  yards,  stables,  offices,  &c.  are  unusually  spacious 
and  well  arranged ;  and  the  gardens  speak  much  in  favor  of 
the  taste  of  the  celebrated  Duchess  of  Kingston,  under  whose 
superintendence  the  greater  part  of  them  were  constructed ; 
but  all  these  appendages  fall  into  utter  insignificance  when  com- 
pared with  the  surpassing  beauty  of  its  very  queen  of  Parks. 

Severed  from  ancient  Sherwood  whilst  yet  in  her  pri- 
mitive splendor,  this  noble  domain,  forming  an  area  of  about 


81 

thirteen  square  miles,  has  escaped  the  rude  hand  of  the  de- 
stroyer, and  exists  a  glorious  vestige  of  nature's  unsparing 
handiwork  and  never  failing  beauty.  Time  defying  oaks  and 
lofty  beeches  crowd  upon  the  view  at  every  turn,  whilst  hun- 
dreds of  deer  sport,  recline,  and  browse  beneath  their  wide- 
spread branches.  The  spacious  and  placid  sheets  of  water 
lend  additional  and  refreshing  beauty  to  the  scene,  the  minia- 
ture fort  and  full  rigged  vessel  guarding  the  large  lake,  indica- 
ting the  early  predilections  of  Thoresby's  present  Lord. 
The  village  of 

BUDBY, 

which  as  I  have  before  stated,  lies  within  the  King's  great 
Manor  of  Mansfield,  is  situate  at  the  south  west  comer 
of  Thoresby  Park,  under  a  thickly  wooded  aclivity  with 
the  river  Meden  gently  flowing  past.  This  village  belongs 
solely  to  Lord  Manvers,  and  is  looked  upon  as  the  very 
model  of  village  comfort  and  beauty,  and  in  truth  it  well 
deserves  the  celebrity.  The  cottages  are  all  built  in  the 
Swiss  or  Gothic  style,  and  every  attention  must  have  been 
paid  to  the  picturesque  in  their  erection.  The  neat  and  lux- 
uriant gardens  with  which  they  are  surrounded,  combine  to 
make  this  pretty  little  town  all  that  the  most  romantic  and 
fastidious  taste  could  wish.  But  why  should  I  dwell  upon 
one  single  scene,  when  all  around  is  lovely !  And  indeed  I  see 
my  space  is  nearly  exhausted,  therefore  I  must  reserve  for 
another  letter,  the  last,  though  not  least,  of  the  attractive  Man- 
sions I  have  been  permitted  to  visit,  the  seat  of  the  vener- 
able Duke  of  Portland. 


LETTER  V. 


WELBECK  ABBEY. 

'  And  one,  an  English  home — gray  twilight  pour'd 

On  dewy  pastures,  dewy  trees, 
Softer  than  sleep — all  things  in  order  stored, 

A  haunt  of  ancient  Peace. 


)N  passing  through  the  almost  endless  plantations  which 
appear  to  surround  this  venerable  seat,  it  is  impossible  not  to 
admire  both  the  rich  beauty  of  the  scenery,  as  well  as  the 
luxuriant  evidences  of  the  unprecedented  zeal  of  his  Grace 
and  his  immediate  predecessor,  in  promoting  the  growth  of 
timber.  And  all  the  country  around  is  a  wide  model  of  that 
fine  system  of  farming,  for  which  the  noble  owner  and  his 
tenantry  have  long  been  celebrated. 

The  original  Abbey  was  founded  in  the  reign  of  King  Ste- 
phen, for  Prsemonstratensian  Canons,  and  was  dedicated  to 
St.  James,  and  eventually  became  one  of  the  richest  Abbeys 
in  Nottinghamshire.  In  13th  Henry  the  eighth  (the  year  of 
its  dissolution)  its  annual  revenues  amounted  to  j£250.  It 
was  first  purchased  by  Richard  Whalley,  from  whom  it  passed 
to  Sir  Charles  Cavendish,  who,  as  I  have  before  stated,  was 


83 

the  youngest  son  of  the  Countess  of  Shrewsbury.  Sir  Charles' 
son  became  Duke  of  Newcastle,  and  wrote  the  celebrated  trea- 
tise upon  horsemanship,  and  he  it  was  who  erected  the  beau- 
tiful riding  house  at  Welbeck  (1623)  which  for  extent  and 
fine  proportion  is  not  equalled  probably  by  anything  of  the 
kind  in  the  kingdom.  From  this  family  the  present  Duke  of 
Portland  is  maternally  descended. 

Few  remnants  of  the  ancient  Abbey  now  remain,  and  these 
are  old  sepulchral  monuments  affixed  to  some  of  the  inner 
walls,  the  rest  having  been  erected  so  recently  as  1604;  the 
style  however  is  in  strict  accordance  with  its  former  character, 
and  its  pointed  gables,  clustered  chimneys,  battlements,  turrets, 
and  towers,  all  unite  in  giving  to  Welbeck  Abbey  a  remarkable 
and  antiquated  appearance. 

Pleasing  and  beautiful  though  this  mansion  from  its  situation 
undoubtedly  is,  I  do  not  find  many  very  remarkable  reminis- 
cences connected  with  its  history,  except  that  it  has  on  several 
occasions  been  visited  by  Royalty. 

In  1619,  King  James  paid  Sir  William  Cavendish  a  visit 
at  Welbeck,  where  he  was  entertained  with  the  greatest 
magnificence.  The  following  year  Sir  William  was  created 
Baron  Ogle. 

In  1633,  King  Charles  the  martyr  making  his  progress  into 
Scotland  to  be  crowned,  did  the  noble  proprietor  the  honor  of 
resting  at  Welbeck,  where  his  Majesty  and  Court  "were 
received  in  such  a  manner,  and  with  such  excess  of  feasting  as 
had  scarcely  ever  been  known  in  England."  On  this  occasion 
the  services  of  Ben  Jonson  were  secured  to  write  plays,  or 
masques,  the  performance  of  which  was  for  the  amusement  of 
the  Royal  party.  The  first  of  these  is  entitled  "  Love's 
Welcome;  the  King's  entertainment  at  Welbeck,  in  Not- 


84 

tinghamshire,  a  house  of  the  right  honorable  William,  Earl 
of  Newcastle,  Viscount  Mansfield,  Baron  of  Bothal  and 
Bolsover,  &c.  at  his  going  into  Scotland,  1633."  Gifford,  in 
speaking  of  this  masque  says,  "  the  object  was  merely  to  in- 
troduce in  a  kind  of  anti-masque  a  course  of  Quintain,  per- 
formed by  the  gentlemen  of  the  county,  neighbours  of  this 
great  Earl,  in  the  guise  of  rustics,  in  which  much  awkwardness 
was  affected,  and  much  real  dexterity  probably  shewn."  The 
following  eulogium  upon  the  unfortunate  Monarch  appears  to- 
wards the  conclusion  of  the  piece,  which  being  now  rare,  may 
not  be  an  uninteresting  extract, 


such  a  King 


As  men  would  wish,  that  knew  not  how  to  hope 
His  like,  but  seeing  him  !  A  Prince,  that's  law 
Unto  himself;  is  good  for  goodness'  sake — 
And  so  becomes  the  rule  unto  his  subjects ; 
That  studies  not  to  seem  or  to  shew  great, 
But  be: — not  dressed  for  other's  eyes  and  ears, 
With  visors  and  false  rumours,  but  make  fame 
Wait  on  his  actions,  and  thence  speak  his  name." 

The  Welbeck  gardens  are  much  celebrated  for  their  beauty 
and  extent,  and  are  well  supplied  with  rare  exotics  and  choice 
fruit. 

Within  the  precincts  of  the  park  the  following  trees  may  be 
fairly  classed  in  the  catalogue  of 

REMARKABLE  OAKS. 

The  Greendale  oak,  which  has  not  been  inaptly  called  the 
"Methuselah  of  trees." 

Major  Rooke  in  speaking  of  this  tree  in  1779,  says,  "this 
famous  oak  is  thought  to  be  above  700  years  old,  and  from 
its  appearance,  there  is  every  reason  to  suppose  it  has  attained 


85 

to  that  age  at  least.     The  circumference  of  the  trunk  above 
the  arch  is  35  feet  3  inches,  height  of  the  arch  10  feet  3  inches, 

width  about  the  middle  6  feet 
3  inches,  height  to  the  top 
branch  54  feet.  The  Countess  of 
Oxford  had  several  cabinets  made 
of  the  branches  and  ornamented 
with  inlaid  representations  of  the 
oak."  The  height  of  this  tree 
at  the  present  time  is  about  50 
feet,  andTts"principal  attraction  consists  in  its  having  an  archway 
cut  through  its  sturdy  trunk  sufficiently  wide  as  the  "  natives" 
say  for  a  carriage  to  drive  through! 

THE  PORTER  OAKS, 

Are  so  called  from  there  having  been  a  gate  between  them. 
The  dimensions  of  these  trees  as  given  by  Major  Rooke  are, — 
height  of  one  98  feet,  the  other  88  feet ;  circumference  of  the 
former  at  bottom  38  feet,  the  latter  34  feet. 


,  THE  SEVEN  SISTERS 

is  another  interesting  tree,  and  so  called  from  its  having  had 
seven  stems  or  trunks  issuing  out  of  one  stool  in  a  perpendi- 
cular direction.  The  same  authority  gives  the  height  of  this 
tree  as  88  feet,  and  the  circumference  at  the  bottom  at  34  feet. 

THE  DUKE'S  WALKING  STICK 

is  described  by  the  Major  as  being  in  height  111  feet  6  inches, 
solid  contents  440  feet,  weight,  1 1  tons !  "  It  may  be  doubted," 
says  he,  "  whether  this  admirable  tree  can  be  matched  by  any 


86 

other  in  the  kingdom."  This  noble  fellow  has  alas !  long 
ceased  to  exist,  and  its  title  transferred  to  a  fine  young  oak 
near  the  Abbey,  straight  as  a  pike  staff,  and  nearly  100  feet  in 
height,  and  70  feet  to  the  branches;  this  "youngster"  is 
about  130  years  old. 

At  the  bottom  end  of  the  beautiful  winding  lake  at  Welbeck, 
and  within  sight  on  one  side  of  the  Abbey,  and  on  the  other 
of  the  Mansfield  and  Worksop  turnpike  road,  the  noble  Duke 
is  now  erecting  at  an  enormous  expense,  a  beautiful  Iron 
Bridge  of  graceful  proportions,  and  calculated  to  have,  from 
every  point  of  view,  a  most  imposing  effect.  A  short  distance 
from  it  is  the  gate  and  the  oak  tree,  near  which,  on  the  21st, 
September,  1848,  the  lifeless  body  of  Lord  George  Bentinck 
was  found. 

On  the  west  side  of  Welbeck  park  is  an  ancient  and  exten- 
sive mansion  called  Woodhouse  Hall,  which  is  even  now 
surrounded  by  a  moat,  and  presents  a  venerable  appearance. 
Thoroton  says  that  the  first  Earl  of  Kingston,  who  died  in 
1 643  resided  here,  and  there  is  no  doubt  but  it  originally  be- 
longed to  the  neighbouring  village  of  Cuckney,  and  was  in 
fact  the  site  of  the  Castle  of  Cuckney,  erected  by  the  founder 
of  Welbeck  Abbey.  This  rarely  visited,  but  interesting 
residence,  is  now  occupied  by  a  respectable  farmer. 

In  concluding  this  account  of  Welbeck  Abbey,  I  would  fain 
have  expatiated  upon  the  many  noble  qualities,  generous  im- 
pulses, and  exalted  virtues  of  its  present  aged  and  venerated 
owner  the  Duke  of  Portland,  but  the  sentiments  of  those 
around  him  are  so  well  expressed  in  an  address,  which  was 
presented  to  his  Grace  some  time  ago,  that  I  prefer  sending 
you  a  copy  of  it. 


87 

TO  THE  MOST  NOBLE  WlLLIAM  HENRY  CAVENDISH  SCOTT, 

DUKE  OF  PORTLAND  : 

We,  the  inhabitants  of  Mansfield  and  its  vicinity,  in  public 
meeting  assembled,  beg  most  warmly  to  congratulate  your 
Grace  upon  an  eveiit  which  cannot  but  be  hailed  with  pleasure 
by  every  one  to  whom  your  many  virtues  are  known,  namely, 
that  of  completing  your  eightieth  year. 

It  is  under  ordinary  circumstances  highly  gratifying,  to  see 
the  good  and  the  great  in  life,  enjoying  a  revered  and  honor- 
able old  age,  but  when  such  blessings  fall  to  the  lot  of  one, 
possessing  so  large  a  share  of  our  veneration  and  regard  as 
your  Grace  has  ever  done,  we  feel  a  pleasure  which  language 
can  but  feebly  express. 

As  a  liberal  benefactor  to  the  district  in  which  we  reside, 
and  as  a  promoter  of  every  object  calculated  to  soothe  and 
alleviate  the  sorrows  and  sufferings  of  our  poorer  fellow  crea- 
tures, or  to  advance  the  cause  of  religion  and  education ;  at 
once  kind,  charitable,  and  humane,  your  name  is  affectionately 
endeared  to  us ;  and  our  earnest  hope  is,  that  it  may  please 
Almighty  God  to  continue  His  blessing  towards  you,  so  that 
you  may  long  remain  in  the  uninterrupted  enjoyment  of  health 
and  happiness,  and  also  of  that  peace  of  mind  "  which  passeth 
understanding." 

Dated  at  Mansfield  this  2/th  day  of  June,  1848. 
Signed 

FRAS.  HALL, 

Chairman. 

Here  then  my  pleasant  task  concludes.  Hurried  and  im 
perfect  as  these  descriptions  are,  they  may,  I  hope,  both  gra- 
tify and  amuse  you ;  beyond  this  I  do  not  aspire.  For  my 


88 

own  part,  in  looking  back  upon  my  rambles ;  whether  I  think 
of  the  Sacred  Edifices  which  the  zeal  and  devotion  of  former 
generations  raised  to  the  service  of  God,  or  of  the  extent  and 
splendour  of  the  Baronial  Halls  I  have  attempted  to  describe, 
or  of  all  the  interesting  scenes  with  which  nature's  most 
lovely  domain  "  Old  Sherwood"  is  studded,  I  feel  more  than 
gratified  with  my  visit  to  this  charming  portion  of  our  native 
land,  and  exclaim  with  the  American  Poet, 

"  O  what  a  glory  doth  this  world  put  on, 
For  him,  who  with  a  fervent  heart,  goes  forth 
Under  the  bright  and  glorious  sky,  and  looks 
On  duties  well  performed,  and  days  well  spent ! 
lor  him  the  wind,  ay,  and  the  yellow  leaves, 
Shall  have  a  voice  and  give  him  eloquent  teachings." 


ERRATA. 

Page  22,  line  IS,  for  Essay  of  Table, 
read  Essay  on  Fable, 

46,  line  10,  for  Corn  Bill, 

read  Reform  Bill. 

70,  line    3,/or  artificial  the  one, 
read  the  artificial  one. 


APPENDIX. 


Note  1.     Page  26. 
ROBIN  HOOD. 

It  will  scarcely  be  expected  that  one  should  be  able  to  offer  an  authentic 
narrative  of  the  life  and  transactions  of  this  extraordinary  personage.  The 
times  in  which  he  lived,  the  mode  of  life  he  adopted,  and  the  silence  or  loss  of 
contemporary  writers  are  circumstances  sufficiently  favorable  indeed  to  romance, 
but  altogether  inimical  to  historical  truth.  The  reader  must  therefore  be 
contented  with  such  a  detail  however  scanty  or  imperfect,  as  a  zealous  pur- 
suit of  the  subject  enables  one  to  give ;  and  which  though  it  may  fail  i<? 
satisfy,  may  probably  serve  to  amuse. 

The  industrious  Sir  John  Hawkins,  from  whom  the  public  had  been  pre- 
viously taught  to  expect  ample  gratification  upon  the  subject,  acknowledges 
that  the  history  of  this  popular  hero  is  but  little  known,  and  all  the  scatter- 
ed fragments  concerning  him  could  they  be  brought  together,  would  fall  far 
short  of  satisfying  such  an  inquirer,  as  none  but  real  and  well  authenticated 
facts  will  content ;  "  we  must,"  he  says,  "take  the  story  as  we  find  it."  It 
is  not  therefore  pretended  that  the  present  attempt  promises  more  than  to 
bring  together  the  scattered  fragments  to  which  the  historian  alludes.  This, 
however,  has  been  done,  according  to  the  best  of  the  compiler's  information 
and  abilities  ;  and  the  result  is,  with  a  due  sense  of  the  deficiency  of  both, 
submitted  to  the  reader's  candour 

ROBIN  HOOD  was  born  at  Locksley,  in  the  county  of  Nottingham,  in  the 
reign  of  Henry  the  second,  and  about  the  year  of  Christ  1160.  His  extrac- 
tion was  noble,  and  his  true  name  was  Robert  Fitzoot-hes,  which  vulgar  pro- 
nunciation easily  corrupted  into  Robin  Hood.  He  is  frequently  styled,  and 
commonly  reputed  to  have  been  Earl  of  Huntingdon ;  a  title  to  which,  in  the 
latter  part  of  his  life,  at  least,  he  actually  appears  to  have  had  some  sort  of 
pretension.  In  his  youth  he  is  reported  to  have  been  of  a  wild  and  eztra- 
H  3 


90 

vagant  disposition  ;  insomuch  that,  his  inheritance  heing  consumed  or  for- 
feited by  his  excesses,  and  his  person  outlawed  for  debt,  either  from  necessity 
or  choice,  he  sought  an  asylum  in  the  woods  and  forests,  with  which  im- 
mense tracts,  especially  in  the  northern  parts  of  the  kingdom,  were  at  that 
time  covered.  Of  these  he  chiefly  affected  Barnsdale,  in  Yorkshire,  Sherwood, 
in  Nottinghamshire,  and,  according  to  some,  Plompton-park,  in  Cumberland. 
Here  he  either  found  or  was  afterwards  joined  by  a  number  of  persons  in  similar 
circumstances, 

"  Such  as  the  fury  of  ungovern'd  youth 
Thrust  from  the  company  of  awful  men." 

who  appear  to  have  considered  and  obeyed  him  as  their  chief  or  leader,  and 
of  whom  his  principal  favourites,  or  those  in  whose  courage  and  fidelity  he 
most  confided,  were  LITTLE  JOHN,  (whose  surname  is  said  to  have  been  NailorJ, 
WILLIAM  SCADLOCK  (Scathelock  or  Scarlet),  GEORGE-A-GREEN,  pindar  or 
pound-keeper  of  Wakefield,  MUCH,  a  miller's  son,  and  a  certain  monk  or  friar 
named  TUCK.  He  is  likewise  said  to  have  been  accompanied  in  his  retreat 
by  a  female,  of  whom  he  was  enamoured,  and  whose  real  or  adopted  name 
was  MARIAN. 

His  company,  in  process  of  time,  consisted  of  a  hundred  archers;  men, 
says  Major,  "  most  skilful  in  battle,  whom  four  times  that  number  of  the  bold- 
est fellows  durst  not  attack."  His  manner  of  recruiting  was  somewhat  sin- 
gular ;  for  in  the  words  of  an  old  writer,  "  wher soever  he  hard  of  any  that 
were  of  unusual  strength  and  '  hardines,'  he  would  desgyse  himselfe,  and, 
rather  then  fayle,  go  lyke  a  begger,  to  become  acquaynted  with  them ;  and, 
after  he  had  tryed  them  with  fyghting ;  never  givethem  over  tylhehadusedmeans 
to  drawe  them  to  lyve  after  his  fashion :"  a  practice  of  which  numerous  in- 
stances are  recorded  in  the  more  common  and  popular  songs,  where,  indeed, 
he  seldom  fails  to  receive  a  sound  beating.  In  shooting  with  the  long  bow, 
which  they  chiefly  practised,  "  they  excelled  all  the  men  of  the  land ;  though 
as  occasion  required,  they  had  also  other  weapons." 

In  these  forests,  and  with  this  company,  he  for  many  years  reigned  like 
an  independent  sovereign ;  at  perpetual  war,  indeed,  with  the  King  of  Eng- 
land, and  all  his  subjects,  with  an  exception,  however,  of  the  poor  and  needy, 
and  such  as  were  "  desolate  and  oppressed,"  or  stood  in  need  of  his  protec- 
tion. "When  molested,  by  a  superior  force,  in  one  place,  he  retired  to  another, 
still  defying  the  power  of  what  was  called  law  and  government,  and  making 
his  enemies  pay  dearly,  as  well  for  their  open  attacks,  as  for  their  clandestine 
treachery.  It  is  not,  at  the  same  time,  to  be  concluded  that  he  must,  in 
this  opposition,  have  been  guilty  of  manifest  treason  or  rebellion;  as  he 


91 

most  certainly  can  be  justly  charged  with  neither.  An  outlaw,  in  those  times, 
being  deprived  of  protection,  owed  no  allegiance:  "his  hand  'was'  against 
every  man,  and  every  man's  hand  against  him."  These  forests,  in  short,  were 
his  territories ;  those  who  accompanied  and  adhered  to  him,  his  subjects : 

The  world  was  not  his  friend,  nor  the  world's  law. 

and  what  better  title  King  Richard  could  pretend  to  the  territory  and  people 
of  England  than  Robin  Hood  had  to  the  dominion  of  Barnsdale  or  Sherwood 
is  a  question  humbly  submitted  to  the  consideration  of  the  political  philoso- 
pher. 

The  deer  with  which  the  royal  forests  then  abounded  (every  Norman  tyrant 
being,  likeNimrod,  "a  mighty  hunter  before  the  Lord),"would  afford  our  hero 
and  his  companions  an  ample  supply  of  food  throughout  the  year ;  and  of 
fuel,  for  dressing  their  venison,  or  for  the  other  purposes  of  life,  they  could 
evidently  be  in  no  want.  The  rest  of  their  necessaries  would  be  easily  pro- 
cured, partly  by  taking  what  they  had  occasion  for  from  the  wealthy  passen- 
ger, who  traversed  or  approached  their  territories,  and  partly  by  commerce 
with  the  neighbouring  villages  or  great  towns. 

It  may  be  readily  imagined  that  such  a  life,  during  great  part  of  the  year, 
at  least,  and  while  it  continued  free  from  the  alarms  or  apprehensions  to 
which  our  foresters,  one  would  suppose,  must  have  been  too  frequently  sub- 
ject, might  be  sufficiently  pleasant  and  desirable,  and  even  deserve  the  com- 
pliment which  is  paid  to  it  by  Shakspeare,  in  his  comedy  As  you  like  it,  (act 
1.  scene  1),  where  on  Oliver's  asking,  "where  will  the  old  duke  live?" 
Charles  answers,  "  They  say  he  is  already  in  the  forest  of  Arden,  and  a  many 
merry  men  with  him;  and  there  they  live  like  the  old  Robin  Hood  of  Eng- 
land ; and  fleet  the  time  carelessly  as  they  did  in  the  golden  world." 

But ,  on  the  other  hand,  it  will  be  at  once  difficult  and  painful  to  conceive, 


When  they  did  htar 


The  rain  and  wind  beat  dark  December,  how, 
In  that  their  pinching  cave,  they  could  discourse 
The  freezing  hours  away! 

Their  mode  of  life,  in  short,  and  domestic  economy,  of  which  no  authentic 
particulars  have  been  traditionally  preserved,  are  more  easily  to  be  guessed 
at  than  described. 

That  our  hero  and  his  companions,  while  they  lived  in  the  woods,  had  re- 
course to  robbery  for  their  better  support  is  neither  to  be  concealed  nor  to 
be  denied.  Testimonies  to  this  purpose,  indeed  would  be  equally  endless  and 
unnecessary.  Fordun  in  the  fourteenth  century,  calls  him'  "  ille  famossisi- 
mus  siccarius"  that  most  celebrated  robber,  and  Major  terms  him  and  Little 


92 

John,  "famatissimi  latroncs"  But  it  is  to  be  remembered,  according  to 
the  confession  of  the  latter  historian,  that,  in  these  exertions  of  power,  he 
took  away  the  goods  of  rich  men  only ;  never  killing  any  person,  unless  he 
was  attacked  or  resisted  :  that  he  would  not  suffer  a  woman  to  be  maltreated ; 
nor  ever  took  any  thing  from  the  poor,  but  charitably  fed  them  with  the 
wealth  he  drew  from  the  abbots,  I  disapprove,  says  he,  of  the  rapine  of  the 
man  ;  but  he  was  the  most  humane  and  the  prince  of  all  robbers.  In  allusion, 
no  doubt,  to  this  irregular  and  predatory  course  of  life,  he  has  had  the  honor 
to  be  compared  to  the  illustrious  Wallace,  the  champion  and  deliverer  oi  his 
country ;  and  that,  it  is  not  a  little  remarkable,  in  the  latter's  own  time. 

Our  hero,  indeed,  seems  to  have  held  bishops,  abbots,  priests,  and  monks, 
in  a  word,  all  the  clergy,  regular  or  secular,  in  decided  aversion. 

"These  byshoppes  and  thyse arrhebyshoppes, 
Ye  shall  them  bete  and  bynde," 

was  an  injunction  carefully  impressed  upon  his  followers :  and,  in  this  part 
of  his  conduct,  perhaps,  he  may  find  ample  justification  in  the  accounts  of 
the  pride,  avarice,  uncharitablenes,  and  hypocrisy  of  a  portion  of  the  clergy 
of  that  day  who  were  supported  in  pampered  luxury,  at  the  expense  of  those, 
whom  the  craft  of  the  Romish  priesthood  retained  in  superstitious  igno- 
rance and  irrational  servility.  The  abbot  of  St.  Mary's,  in  York,  from  some 
unknown  cause,  appears  to  have  been  distinguished  by  particular  animosity ; 
and  the  sheriff  of  Nottinghamshire,  who  may  have  been  too  active  and  offi- 
cious in  his  endeavours  to  apprehend  him,  was  the  unremitted  object  of  his 
vengeance. 

Notwithstanding,  however,  the  aversion  in  which  he  appears  to  have  held 
the  clergy  of  every  denomination,  he  was  a  man  of  exemplary  piety,  according 
to  the  notions  of  that  age,  and  retained  a  domestic  chaplain  (friar  Tuck  no 
doubt)  for  the  diurnal  celebration  of  the  divine  mysteries.  This  we  learn 
from  an  anecdote  preserved  by  Fordun,  as  an  instance  of  those  actions  which 
the  historian  allows  to  deserve  commendation.  One  day,  as  he  heard  mass, 
which  he  was  most  devoutly  accustomed  to  do,  (nor  would  he,  in  whatever 
necessity,  suffer  the  office  to  be  interrupted),  he  was  espied  by  a  certain  sheriff 
and  officers  belonging  to  the  King,  who  had  frequently  before  molested 
him,  in  that  most  secret  recess  of  the  wood  where  he  was  at  mass.  Some  of 
his  people,  who  perceived  what  was  going  forward,  advised  him  to  fly  with  all 
speed,  which  out  of  reverence  to  the  sacrament,  which  he  was  then  most  de- 
voutly worshipping,  he  absolutely  refused  to  do.  But  the  rest  of  his  men 
having  fled  for  fear  of  death,  Robin  confiding  solely  in  him  whom  he  rever- 
ently worshipped,  with  a  very  few,  who  by  chance  were  present,  set  upon  his 


93 

enemies,  whom  he  easily  vanquished ;  and,  being  enriched  with  their  spoils 
and  ransom,  he  always  held  the  ministers  of  the  church  and  masses  in  greater 
veneration  ever  after,  mindful  of  what  is  vulgarly  said : 

Him  God  does  surely  hear 
Who  oft  to  th '  mass  gives  ear. 

Having  for  a  long  series  of  years,  maintained  a  sort  of  independent  sove- 
reignty, and  set  kings,  judges,  and  magistrates  at  defiance,  a  proclamation 
was  published,  offering  a  considerable  reward  for  bringing  him  in,  either  dead 
or  alive ;  which,  however,  seems  to  have  been  productive  of  no  greater  success 
than  former  attempts  for  that  purpose.  At  length  the  infirmities  of  old  age 
increasing  upon  him,  and  desirous  to  be  relieved  in  a  fit  of  sickness,  by  being 
let  blood,  he  applied  for  that  purpose  to  the  prioress  of  Kirkley's-nunnery, 
in  Yorkshire,  his  relation,  (women,  and  particularly  religious  women,  being 
in  those  times,  somewhat  better  skilled  in  surgeiy  than  the  sex  is  at  present) 
by  whom  he  was  treacherously  -suffered  to  bleed  to  death.  This  event  hap- 
pened on  the  18th  of  November,  1247,  being  the  31st  year  of  King  Henry 
III.  and  (if  the  date  assigned  to  his  birth  be  correct)  about  the  8?th  of  his 
age.  He  was  interred  under  some  trees,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  house ; 
a  stone  being  placed  over  his  grave,  with  an  inscription  to  his  memory. 

Such  was  the  end  of  Robin  Hood  :  a  man  who,  in  a  barbarous  age,  and 
under  a  complicated  tyranny,  displayed  a  spirit  of  freedom  and  independence, 
which  has  endeared  him  to  the  common  people,  whose  cause  he  maintained, 
(for  opposition  to  tyranny  is  the  cause  of  the  people),  and  which  in  spite  of  the 
malicious  endeavours  of  pitiful  monks,  by  whom  history  was  consecrated  to 
the  crimes  and  follies  of  titled  ruffians  and  sainted  idiots,  to  suppress  all 
record  of  his  patriotic  exertions  aud  virtuous  acts,  will  render  his  name  im- 
mortal. 

"  Dum  juga  mentis  aper-fluvios  dum  piscis  amabit, 
Dumque  iliyinu  pascentur  apes,  dum  rore  cicadse, 
Semper  bonus,  uomenque  tuum,  laudcgque  mauebunt." 

With  respect  to  his  personal  character ;  it  is  sufficiently  evident  that  he 
was  active,  brave,  prudent,  patient ;  possessed  of  uncommon  bodily  strength, 
and  considerable  military  skill ;  just,  generous,  benevolent,  faithful  and  be- 
loved or  revered  by  his  followers  or  adherents  for  his  excellent  and  amiable 
qualities.  Fordun,  a  priest,  extols  his  piety,  and  piety  by  a  priest,  is  regard- 
ed as  the  perfection  of  virtue ;  Major  (as  we  have  seen)  pronounces  him  the 
most  humane  and  the  prince  of  all  robbers;  andCamden,  whose  testimony  is 
of  some  weight,  calls  him  <: prcedonem  mitissimum"  the  gentlest  of  thieves. 


94 

As  proofs  of  his  universal  and  singular  popularity :  his  story  and  exploits 
have  been  made  the  subject  as  well  of  various  dramatic  exhibitions,  as  of  in- 
numerable poems,  rhymes,  songs,  and  ballads :  he  has  given  rise  to  divers  pro- 
verbs ;  and^to  swear  by  him,  or  some  of  his  companions,  appeal's  to  have  been 
a  usual  practice  ;  he  may  be  regarded  as  the  patron  of  archery  :  and,  though 
not  actually  canonized,  (a  situation  to  which  the  miracles  wrought  in  his 
favor,  as  well  in  his  lifetime  as  after  his  death,  and  the  supernatural  powers 
he  is,  in  some  parts ,  supposed  to  have  possessed,  give  him  an  indisputable 
claim),  he  obtained  the  principal  distinction  of  sainthood,  in  having  a  festival 
allotted  to  him,  and  solemn  games  instituted  in  honor  of  his  memory,  which 
were  celebrated  till  the  latter  end  of  the  sixteenth  centuiy  ;  not  by  the  popu- 
lace only,  but  by  kings  or  princes  and  grave  magistrates,  and  that  as  well  in 
Scotland  as  in  England  ;  being  considered,  in  the  former  country,  of  the 
highest  political  importance,  and  as  essential «to  the  civil  and  religious  liber- 
ties of  the  people;  the  efforts  of  government  to  suppress  them  frequently  pro- 
ducing tumult  and  insurrection :  his  bow,  and  one  of  his  arrows,  his  chair, 
cap,  and  slipper  were  preserved  with  great  care  till  within  the  last  centu- 
ry ;  and  not  only  places  which  afforded  him  security  or  amusement,  but  even 
the  well  which  quenched  his  thirst,  still  retain  his  name :  a  name  which,  in 
the  middle  of  the  present  centuiy,  was  conferred  as  an  honorable  distinction 
upon  the  prime  minister  to  the  king  of  Madagascar. 

After  his  death  his  company  was  dispersed.  History  is  silent  in  partiru- 
lars:  all  that  we  can,  therefore,  learn  is,  that  the  honor  of  Little  John's 
death  and  grave  is  contended  for  by  rival  nations ;  that  the  place  of  his  (real 
or  reputed)  burial  was  long  "  celebrous  for  the  yielding  of  excellent  whet- 
stones ;"  and  that  some  of  his  descendants,  of  the  name  of  Nailor,  which  he 
himself  bore,  and  they  from  him,  were  in  being  so  late  as  the  seventeenth 
century. 


95 


NOTE  2.    Page  68 

To  the  courtesy  of  an  accomplished  medical  friend,  the  publisher  is  indebted 
for  the  following  list  of  Plants  growing  about  Mansfield  Forest : 

Vaccinium  myrtillus Bilberry 

Vaccinium  Vitis  Idcea,  Red  wliortellcrr  <  €•••,  ;  berry 

Drosera  rotundifolia     Round  leaved  Sundew 

Erodium  maritimum Sea  Storks-bill 

Ulex  Europceus Common  Furze,  Whin,  or  Gorse 

Ulex  nanus   Dwarf  Furze 

Genista  tinctoria  Dyer's  Green-weed,  Wood-waxen 

Genista  Anglica    Petty  Whin,  Needle  Green-weed 

Tormentilla  officinalis  Common  Tormentil 

Tormentilla  reptans  Trailing  Tormentil 

Conyza  squarrosa Ploughman's  Spikenard 

Gnaphalium  dioicum Mountain  Cudweed 

Calluna  vulgaris Common  Heath,  Ling 

Erica  cinerea    Fine  leaved  Heath 

Erica  Tetralix Cross  leaved  Heath 

Verbascum  Thapsus Mullein 

Pinus  sylvestris    Scotch  Fir 

Typha  latifolia Great  Cats-tail 

Eriophorum  vaginatum Hare's-tail,  Cotton  grass 

Eriophorum  angustifolium    Common  Cotton  grass 

Batrychium  lunaria Common  Moonwort 

Lycopodium  clavatum  Club  Moss,  Stag's-horn  Moss 

Lycopodium  Selago  Fir  Club  Moss 

Lycopodium  inundatum    Marsh  Club  Moss 

Cladonia  rangiferina    Rein  Deer  Moss 


FINIS. 


INDEX. 


PAGE 

Annesley  Hall 40 

Birkland  and  Bilhagh      76 

Bolsover  Castle        61 

Budby      81 

Clipstone 72 

Lodge       74 

HardwickHall 50 

Hucknall  Church 47 

Linby        47 

Mansfield : 5 

Woodhouse 67 

Newstead  Abbey      25 

Oaks  (Butcher's  Shambles,  the) 77 

-(Major,  the) ,     ..      ..  77 

Parliament,  the) 77 

Oaks  of  Birkland 76 

Welbeck      84 

Plants,  indigenous    .  / 95 

Robin  Hood  (Life  of)      89 

Rufford  Abbey 78 

Thoresby      80 

Water  Meadows       69 

Welbeck  Abbey       82 

Collins  on,  Printer,  Mansfield. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


To  Railway  Travellers  &  others. 


In  consequence  of  the  extensive  alterations  which  have  recently 
heen  made  in  the 

' 
The  Proprietor  confidently  solicits  the  support  of  Visitors 

and  others,  assuring  them  that  they  will  meet  with  every 
comfort  and  attention  which  the  most  fastidious  can  desire. 


(Driven  by  experienced  guides) 

TO  BIRKLAND,  NEWSTEAD,  &  HARDWICK, 

and  all  other  attractive  places  in  the  Neighbourhood. 


GENERAL  FURNISHING  IRONMONGERY,  CASTING, 

AND  AGRICULTURAL  IMPLEMENT  WAREHOUSE, 
MARKET  PLACE,  MANSFIELD. 

MESSRS.  JOHN  &  JAMES  ALDR1DGE, 

PROPRIETORS  OF  THE  ABOVE  ESTABLISHMENT, 

Beg  to  assure  their  Friends  and  the  Public  generally,  that  they  shall  ever 
feel  grateful  for  the  kind  encouragement  they  have  already  met  with,  proving  t 
as  it  does,  that  their  system  of  conducting  business,  viz  :—  THAT  OF  PUR- 
CHASING ON  THE  BEST  POSSIBLE  TERMS,  and  being  satisfied  with 
A  I  AIR  AND  REASONABLE  PROFIT,  has  been  properly  appreciated  by 
that  best  of  tribunals,  Public  opinion,  before  which  absurd  and  empty  pro- 
fessions of  "  Extraordinary  Advantages,"  "  Cheap  Bargains,"  &c.  must  sooner 
or  later  explode  like  the  soap-bubbles  of  childhood.  They,  however,  venture 
to  assert,  that  every  article  purchased  at  their  establishment  will,  on  compa- 
rison, be  found  as  cheap  and  good  as  those  supplied  by  any  other  respectable 
house,  however  attractive  and  high  sounding  their  boastings  may  be. 

Having  recently  fitted  up  a  range  of  commodious  Workshops,  and  secured 
the  services  of  first-rate  workmen,  they  are  enabled  to  execute  all  kinds  of 
Engineering  and  Smith's  Work,  Bell-hanging,  Brazing,  and  Copper,  Zinc, 
and  Tinplate  Work,  in  a  superior  style,  and  with  expedition. 

They  beg  respectfully  to  call  public  attention  to  their  present  extensive 
and  carefully  selected  stock  of  GOODS,  of  which  the  following  is  merely  a 
summary,  viz  :  — 

A  GENERAL  ASSORTMENT  OF  CASTINGS, 

Consisting  of  Kitchen  Ranges,  Cooking  Apparatus,   Stove  Grates,  elegant 

Black  and  Bronzed  Fenders,  Warm  Air  Stoves,  Bronzed  and  Berlin- 

black  Hat,  Coat,  and  Umbrella  Stands,  Door  Steps,  &c.  &c. 


CONSISTING  OF  MOST  OP 

CROSSKILL'S  CELEBRATED  IMPLEMENTS, 

GILLOTT'S  PATENT  GUILLOTINE  STRAW  CUTTER, 

being  decidedly  the  best  ever  invented. 

TTTOEW 

£&Unnotoing 
REVILL'S  PATENT  BARLEY  CHOPPER. 


ALDRIDGE'S  IMPROVED  IRON  LAND  ROLLER, 

of  great  power  and  utility  for  pressing  light  soils. 

Fergette's  Patent  Waterproof  Covers,  for  Carts,  Waggons, 
and  Stacks. 

IMPROVED  CAST  IRON  MANGERS,  RACKS,  AND  TROUGHS. 

Turnip  arid  Corn  Skeps,  of  all  sizes. 

Iron  Hurdles  and  Gates  ;  also  Wire  and  other  Fencing,  of  the  most  fashion- 

able and  elegant  designs,  and  adapted  for  Parks  and  Pleasure  Grounds, 

as  well  as  for  general  farming  purposes. 

SOLE  AGENTS  FOR  GODDARD's  CELEBRATED 

LEICESTERSHIRE  HALT  REMEDY, 

for  the  cure  of  Foot  Rot  and  Lameness  in  Sheep  and  Cattle. 

GARDENING  fy  HORTICULTURAL  IMPLEMENTS, 

and  Ornamental  Work  of  first-rate  quality  and  most  admirable  designs, 

Consisting  in  part,  of  Elegant  Cast  Iron  Bordering,  Flower  Stands,  Wire 
Trellis  Work  for  Arbours  and  Verandahs,  Patent  Garden  Engines,  Syringes 
and  Rollers  ;  also  a  large  stock  of  Hoes,  Rakes,  Spades,  Shears,  fyc.  suitable 
alike  for  the  Workman,  the  Amateur,  or  Lady-florist. 

AN  ENDLESS  VARIETY  OP 

GENERAL  FURNISHING  IRONMONGERY, 

Including  Joiner's  Tools,  Brass  Furnishings,  Cornice  Poles,  Rings,  and  Cur- 
tain Bands,  of  the  most  modern  and  elaborate  designs  ;  Locks  in  every  variety, 
including  Chubb's  Bramah's,  Ducie's,  and  Windle  and  Co.'s  Patents.  Bath* 
of  every  description.  Elegant  Trays.  A  splendid  assortment  of  Cutlery  : 
and,  in  fact,  almost  every  article  required  in  the  domestic  Leconomy  of  either 
the  Mansion  or  the  Cottage. 

J.  and  J.  ALDRIDGE  would  also  call  the  especial  attention  of  Sportsmen 
to  their  splendid  stock  of 


And  to  assure  them  that  they  can  be  supplied  at  their  establishment,  not  only 
with  these  articles,  but  also  with  POWDER,  SHOT,  PERCUSSION  CAPS, 
WADDINGS,  and  every  other  article  required  by  the  sporting  world,  on  such 
reasonable  terms,  as  will,  the  proprietors  confidently  hope,  insure  them  a  con- 
tinuance of  their  future  commands.  Guns,  &c.  repaired  by  experienced  and 
competent  workmen. 

AGENTS  TOR  THE  SALE  OP 


which  they  are  now  prepared  to  offer  at  the  reduced  price  of  5s.  *$  gallon. 

The  extraordinary  success  which  has  attended  the  use  of  ALDRIDGE'S 
IMPROVED  COWL  FOR  THE  CURE  OF  SMOKEY  CHIMNIES,  in- 
duces the  proprietors  to  strongly  recommend  their  adoption  by  those  troubled 
with  this  hitherto  incurable  nuisance. 


OLD  ESTABLISHED 
WINE!  AND  SPIRIT  VAULTS, 

WHOLESALE  AND  RETAIL, 

W  ©AM,  It  AM  IF  HUE,  ID. 


Begs  to  announce  that  he  is  appointed  sole  Agent  for 


ROASTED  IN  SILVER  CYLINDERS, 

WHICH  IS  NOW  SO  GENERALLY  USED, 
A   TRIAL   IS   SOLICITED. 


A  choice  assortment  of  GENUINE  and  PURE 

TEAS,  SUGARS,  SPICES, 

And  every  Article  connected  with  the  Grocery  business  of  the 
best  quality,  and  on  the  most  reasonable  terms. 


THE  STOCK  OF 


"HE  GREATEST  CARE, 

recommenTleel    tO^arties  who  wish  to  have  a 
lowest  rqjrmnerating  price. 


AHB  IHSIFIBNSIH©  (BHIBIflltSV. 


Takes  this  opportunity  to  thank  his  Friends  and  the  Public, 
for  their  liberal  support,  especially  since  he  entered  upon  his 
present  Central  Premises. 

His  determination  is  and  ever  will  be  to  deal  only  in  the  best 
and  purest  Articles  known  in  the  trade,  and  to  personally  super- 
intend the  dispensing  of  Prescriptions  and  Family  Recipes. 


HORSE  AND  CATTLE  MEDICINES. 


§S>JE!EMI  (DHLS* 

<&&$tntt  oC  &iu(0bf*$,  Jrauceg  anlr 


Sole  Inventor  and  Preprietor  of  Oldham's  celebrated 

FOOT  ROT  OINTMENT  FOR  SHEEP. 


Rich  Cut  Glass  Smelling  Bottles  and  Articles  for  the  Toilet. 


.  j£aTmmt5j>0  aW&ratrtr  df amtlg  ^ilte, 

Roper's  Plasters,  and  other  established, Patent  Medicines. 

'—ri 

*  Observe  near  the  Town  Hall,  Market  Place,  Mansfield^ 
13  \ 


In  the  press  and  shortly  will  he  published,  uniform  with  Foster's  Popular 
Charts  of  Home,  France,  and  Britain  ;  English  History  and  the  Colonies. 

Drawing  Columbier,  Price  3s.  6d.,  Beautifully  Printed. 
A  CHRONOLOGICAL  CHART  OF 


FROM  THE  CREATION  TO  THE  PRESENT  TIME. 

Compiled  from  the  most  authentic  sources,  and  comprising 
nearly  2,000  events. 

The  whole  forming  a  most  interesting  and  valuable  work  of  reference,  and 
one  which  ought  to  have  a  place  in  every  house  in  the  empire. 

BY  RICHARD  ALLEN. 

ii. 
THIRD  EDITION.  32mo.  Cloth,  Gilt.  Price  6d. 


Consisting  of  simple  consonantal  signs  of  the  same  thickness ;  with  fifteen 
vowel  signs,  or  STENOGRAPHY,  PHONOGRAPHY,  PHONOTYPE,  and 
SHORT  HAND  made  easy;  easily  written  and  as  easily  read.  A  New 
System,  capahle  of  the  greatest  abbreviation  and  the  most  perfect  legibility ; 

A   BOOK   FOR  THE    MILLION! 

For  the  Minister,  the  Missionary,  the  Day  and  Sunday  School  Teacher,  the 
Clerk,  the  Reporter,  and  all  those  who  have  little  time  or  weak  memories. 

ALSO  FOR  THE  BLIND. 

Not  a  book  of  rules  and  arbitrary  characters,  but  of  principles  clearly 
explained,  and  elucidated  by  examples. 

BY  W.  PLUMB. 


in. 
Third  Edition.    Royal  8vo.  Sewed  3s.    Handsomely  bound  in  cloth,  gilt,  5s. 

P  E  S  T  U  S. 

A  POEM. 
BY  PHILIP  JAMES  BAILEY. 

A  very  limited  number  of  copies  of  this  extraordinary  work  only  remain  to 
be  disposed  of,  and  as  it  is  not  probable  that  another  cheap  edition  will  be 
issued,  an  early  application,  by  those  who  are  desirous  of  possessing  it  at  its 
present  low  price,  is  requested. 

LONDON : 

Pickering,  177>  Piccadilly;  Hamilton,  Adams,  &  Co.,  33,  Paternoster  Row; 
Collinson,  Mansfield  ;  Allen,  Nottingham,  and  all  BookseDers. 


(g) 

(SUCCESSORS  -TO  MR.   BUNTING) 

CHEMISTS  &  DRUGGISTS, 

MARKET  PLACE,  MANSFIELD. 


PHYSICIAN'S   PRESCRIPTIONS  AND  FAMILY   RECIPES   CAREFULLY 
DISPENSED  WITH   MEDICINES  OF  THE  PUREST  QUALITY. 

N.  B.  Every  Prescription  is  entered  in  the  Prescription  Book,  and  numbered, 
and  may  be  referred  to  at  any  future  time. 

GENUINE  PATENT  MEDICINES. 

FAMILY  MEDICINE  CHESTS  SUPPLIED  AND  REFITTED. 

Best  London  Vinegar  for  Pickling.    Pickles  and  Fish  Sauces  of  all  kinds,  fyc. 
Camphine,  and  superior  Sperm  Oil  for  Lamps. 

Wax,  Sperm,  and  Composite  Candles. — Wax  and  Composi- 
tion Night  Mortars,  of  superior  quality. — BelPs  Wax  Vesta 
Matches  and  Fire  Boxes. — All  kinds  of  Paints,  Oils,  and  Water 
Colours. — Manufacturers  of  Mustard,  Soda  Water,  &  Lemon- 
ade.— Lemon  Kali. — Seidlitz  and  Soda  Powders. — Horse  and 
Cattle  Medicines. — Sheep  Ointment  (warranted). — Foot  Halt 
Ointment  and  Dipping  Composition. — Farmers'  Friend  for 
preventing  the  Smut  in  Wheat. 

H.  and  H.  beg  respectfully  to  thank  their  numerous  Friends 
and  the  Public  for  the  very  liberal  patronage  they  have  received 
since  they  succeeded  to  the  above  business,  and  trust  that  by 
strict  personal  attention,  and  the  sale  of  none  but  Genuine 
Drugs  and  Chemicals,  to  merit  a  continuance  of  that  distin- 
guished patronage  so  long  conferred  on  their  predecessor. 


JOHN  BIRKS, 

BOOT  AND  SHOE  MAKER, 


Returns  his  sincere  thanks  to  the  Nobility,  Clergy,  Gentry, 
and  Inhabitants  of  the  town  and  neighbourhood  of  Mansfield, 
for  the  very  liberal  patronage  and  support  conferred  on  him 
for  the  last  twenty-six  years,  and  hopes,  by  a  due  regard  to  the 
selection  of  the  best  Materials,  combined  with  superior  Work- 
manship, to  ensure  a  continuance  of  their  favors  in  that  depart- 
ment of  his  business  executed  to  order. 

J.  B.  also  takes  this  opportunity  of  stating,  that  he  has 
constantly  on  hand  a  very  large  assortment  of  every  description 
of  useful  Goods  connected  with  the  trade,  from  the  first  quality 
downwards,  and  which  he  is  determined  to  offer  at  the  very 
lowest  remunerating  price. 


TOBACCO,  SNUFF,  and  CIGAR 


(OPPOSITE  THE  BENTINCK  TESTIMONIAL), 
MARKET  PLACE,  MANSFIELD. 

Cigar  Cases,  Fancy  Pipes,  and  Snuff  Boxes  in  great  variety. 


TO  GENTLEMEN  PARTICULAR  IN  DRESS. 


The  NEW  PALETOT  and  SHOOTING  COAT,  made  from  the 
finest  Llama  Cloth,  in  every  variety,  at  reasonable  prices. 

AN  ASSORTMENT  OF  THE  NEWEST  STYLES  IN 

TROWSERINGS,  WAISTCOATINGS,  &c. 

Mourning  to  any  extent  at  a  few  hours  Notice. 


HUNTING  and  DRESS  COATS,  LIVERIES,  LADIES'  HABITS, 
which  for  workmanship  and  style  are  unsurpassed. 

LEEMING  STREET,  MANSFIELD. 


MILLINER  AND  DRESS-MAKER, 

Invites  the  attention  of  the  LADIES  to  her  Fashionable 
assortment  of  MILLINERY,  STRAW  &  CHIP  BONNETS, 
RIBBONS,  FLOWERS,  &c.  Also  to  her  superior  style  in 
DRESS  and  MANTLE  making. 

Ladies  supplying   their  own   materials   will  receive   every 
attention. 

APPRENTICES  AND  IMPROVERS  WANTED. 

West  Gate,  Mansfield, 


CHURCH  STREET,  MANSFIELD; 
WHOLESALE  AND  RETAIL 

All 

SILK  MERCERS, 
$a6rrtra0i)n*0,  posters,  patters,  &t. 

FUNERALS  COMPLETELY  FURNISHED. 

Gentlemen's  Clothes  made  in  the  highest  style  of  fashion. 
MOURNING  IN  A  FEW  HOURS  NOTICE. 

A  GOOD  STOCK  OF  CARPETS 

ALWAYS  ON  HAND. 

THOMAS  BENTON, 

BOOT  AND  SHOE  DEPOT, 


Begs  most  respectfully  to  thank  the  Public  for  the  kind 
encouragement  he  has  hitherto  received,  and  to  assure  them 
that  every  Article  sent  from  his  Establishment,  is  of  the  very 
best  workmanship,  and  may  be  relied  upon  for  durability. 

AH©  <D®:EK 

IF  REQUIRED. 


STOCKWELL  GATE,  MANSFIELD, 

FOUR  DOORS  FROM  THE  MARKET  PLACE. 

WM.  BUTTERWORTH, 

GROCER  AND  TEA  DEALER, 

Takes  pleasure  in  announcing  to  the  Public,  that  the  favour 
awarded  to  the  TEAS  and  COFFEES,  supplied  by  him,  is 
attributable  to  the  experience  and  judgment  in  their  selection, 
and  to  the  small  profit  charged  upon  their  cost. 

W.  B.  has  ever  avoided  appearance  of  extreme  cheapness 
on  the  one  hand,  and  extravagant  charges  on  the  other.  He  is 
now  supplying  excellent 

TEAS 
Congou  Tea,  @  4s.  ^  ft.     Rich  and  full  flavoured,  4s.  8d.  and 

very  superior  ditto,  5s.     Fine  Hyson,  4s.  8d. ;  5s. ;  5s.  4d. 

to  6s.     Gunpowder  Tea,  4s. ;   4s.  8d. ;    5s.  4d. ;    6s.  to 

6s.  8d. 

COFFEES, 
Ceylon,   Is.;  Is.  4d.     Plantation,  Is.  4d. ;  Is.  6d. ;   Is.   8d. 

Jamaica  Is.  6d. ;  Is.  8d. ;  2s. 

TORDOFF  and  SON'S  Cocoa,  8d.  ^  ft.  in  £  ft  packets. 
THORNE  and  Co.'s  Cocoa,  8d.  ^  ft.  in  £  ft  packets. 
Durham  Mustard,  loose  and  in  £  and  |  ft  packets. 

SEEDS. 

Hemp,  Rape,  Canary,  and  Carraway. 

HOPS. 

North  Clay,  Kent,  and  Sussex. 

CHEESE,  &c.   WHITING,  CHALK,  &c. 

WHOLE  and  SPLIT  PEAS.     LINSEED  and  SALT. 


CHURCH  STREET,  MANSFIELD, 

Returns  his  sincere  thanks  to  his  Friends  and  the  Public  for 
the  kind  patronage  he  has  received,  and  begs  to  assure  them 
it  will  ever  be  his  study  to  merit  a  continuance  of  their  sup- 
port. 


PRESCRIPTIONS 


AND 


ACCURATELY  PREPARED. 


AN  EXQUISITE  PERFUME. 


FAMILY  APERIENT  PILLS. 


Camposituim 
HORSE  AND  CATTLE  MEDICINES 

Of  every  description,  from  the  most  approved  Recipes. 


FISH  SAUCES,  &c. 


G-.  CORRALL, 

IPILMIB,  EA 

Respectfully  announces  that  he  has  just  replenished  his  Stock 
with  a  selection  of 


T?  TT  *ffi?  T^3  T^? 

li  ±LQ  w  jSfl  las 

JEWELLERY, 

PLATE  AND  PLATED  ARTICLES, 

AMERICAN  &  OTHER  CLOCKS,  &c.  &c. 

The  quality  of  which  he  can  confidently  recommend,  and 
which  he  will  offer  at  such  prices  as  shall  give  entire 
satisfaction. 


Orders  for  Plate  executed  on  the  shortest  notice  and  most 
reasonable  terms. 


G.  C.  takes  this  opportunity  of  sincerely  thanking  the 
Clergy,  Gentry,  and  Inhabitants  of  Mansfield  and  its  Vicinity, 
for  the  liberal  patronage  he  has  hitherto  received,  and  which 
it  will  ever  be  his  study  to  merit. 


EVERY  DESCRIPTION  OF 

WATCHES,  CLOCKS,  PLATE,  &  JEWELLERY 

CAREFULLY  REPAIRED. 


ALLEN  &  COMPANY, 

IflXB®,  (BffiETOOT 


WHOLESALE  AND  RETAIL 

GROCERS,  TALLOW  CHANDLERS,  &c. 


DEALERS  IN 


WAS,  8FBIKID,  &  ©MTOOTE  (BAKDILIES. 


MERCHANTS. 

TEAS,  COFFEES,  SPICES. 

Bfpj  f?  CTf3  1?  (^  "ra?     *tfffiff  TT  "ii^f  T^3  © 
Jjx»  «iL  Ji  cU.  csD  Joi.      VAy   «LL  j^\iJ  jso  g)rt 

OF  SUPERIOR  QUALITY. 

N.  B.     A.  &  Co.  avoid  quoting  low  prices  as  quality  makes 
Articles  cheap. 


ARTIST, 

CHURCH-SIDE, 
MANSFIELD, 


HAIR  MEMENTOS. 


Every  description  of  HAIR  JEWELLERY,  in  Chain 
Brooches,  Pins,  Rings,  Bracelets,  &c.  made  and  elegantly 
mounted  in  fine  gold. 


Gentlemen's  Wigs,  &c.  made  to  any  colour,  on  the  shortest 
notice,  which  for  elegance  and  durability  cannot  be  surpassed. 

A  SUPERIOR  ASSORTMENT  OF 

TOMTJHI,  (DIL©ra0  MTIO)  EIMIB  lEB 

SHELL,  HORN  AND  IVORY  COMBS. 


ACCORDIONS,  VIOLINS,  BOWS,  BOW-HAIR  AND  STRINGS. 

Work  Boxes,   Dressing  Cases,  Carpet  Bags,  Hair  Trunks, 

Rope  and  Wool  Mats,  Cricket  Bats  and  Balls,  selected 

from  the  stocks  of  the  best  makers. 


PRIVATE  ROOMS  FOR  HAIR  CUTTING 

FAMILIES  ATTENDED. 

CHAPMAN, 


WEST  GATE,  MANSFIELD, 

TWO  DOORS  FROM  THE  MARKET  PLACE. 


TEA  &  COFFEE  WAREHOUSE 

WEST  GATE,  MANSFIELD, 

JJo  (Bo 


Teas  are  considerably  cheaper  as  will  be  seen  from  the  follow- 
ing list  of  prices  :  — 


BLACK  TEA,  ^  ft. 

s.  d. 

3  .  4  Good  and  useful  Tea 

3  6  Excellent  and  full  flavoured 

4  0  Fine  rich  Congou 

This  Tea  is  strongly  recommended  to 
families  and  large  consumers. 

4  8     Truly  fine  and  choice  Tea 

5  0     First  class  Tea,  very  superior. 


GREEN  TEA,  ^  ft. 

d. 

0  Hyson  flavour 

6  Good  family  Tea 

0  Full  and  rich  flavoured,  strong- 
ly recommended 

8  Choice  Tea,  cannot  failto  please 

0  Superior  rich  Tea 

0  Bright  silvery  leaf.  Rich  and 
delicate  flavour. 


Good  small  Tea,  @  2s.  6d.  ^  ft.,  in  ift.  and  ilb.  packets. 


d. 
0 

4 

6 

10 


COFFEE,  V-  ft. 

Good  strong  Coffee 

Rich  and  full  flavoured,  a  sterling  family  article 
Fine  rich  Jamaica,  much  recommended 
Rich  delicate  flavour,  very  choice 


J.  C.  Hawkes  invites  particular  attention  to  his  COFFEE 
packed  as  under : 

s.  d. 

2fts  of  rich  mellow  Coffee 2  6 

lib  „  ditto  ditto     ditto 1  4 

|ft  „  ditto  ditto     ditto 0  8 

£ft  „  ditto  ditto     ditto 0  4 

This  Coffee  requires  no  boiling,  and  is  a  combination  of  six 
sorts,  peculiar  for  strength  and  richness.  To  prove  its  sterling 
quality,  it  only  requires  to  be  tested  \vith  the  packed  Coffee 
sold  by  Agents  at  a  much  higher  price. 


WORKS  PRINTED  AKD  PUBLISHED 


PARK  STREET,  WORKSOP. 

THE  VISITOR'S  HAND-BOOK  TO  WORKSOP  and  its  Neighbour- 
hood, containing  a  descriptive  and  Historical  account  of  the  Antiquities, 
Noblemen's,  Seats,  and  other  objects  of  interest,  in  this  beautifully  pictu- 
resque locality  ;  with  numerous  Engravings,  by  Measom,  Williams,  Dahtiel, 
£c.  from  drawings,  by  Mr.  F.  Trachsel.  Compiled  by  Robert  White. 

Price  6d.,  cloth  9d.  Second  Edition,  carelully  corrected  (will  be  ready 
about  May). 

MISSIONS  ;  OR  A  WORD  FOR  THE  HEATHEN,  being  Facts  and 
Anecdotes,  selected  from  the  Journals  and  Letters  of  Missionaries. 

BY  ROBERT  RAMSDEN, 

Author  of  "  Triumphs  of  Truth  :"  with  four  Engravings  by  Blanchard,  from 
Drawings  by  J.  Gilbert,  12ino.  Price  5s.  London:  James  Nisbet  and  Co., 
Berners  Street. 

IS  "  INDEPENDENCY"  OF  GOD?  THE  QUESTION  CONSIDERED, 
in  a  Letter  containing  a  brief  summary  of  reasons  for  leaving  that  system. 

BY  W.  HUGILL,  late  Independent  Minister,  Worksop. 
London  :  J.  K.  Campbell,  High  Holborn.     Price  Four-pence. 

HEAVENLY  SHADOWS  displayed  in  the  Tabernacle  and  its  Furniture, 
executed  on  a  scale  of  £  of  an  inch  to  a  cubit,  in  Illuminated  Papyro-plastics. 

BY  EDWIN  SMITH. 

accompanied  with  a  Book  of  descriptions,  and  a  Plan  of  the  Camp  of  Israel. 
Price  £1.  Is. 


SHORTLY  WILL  BE  PUBLISHED, 

AN  AUTHENTIC  REPORT  OF  THE  DISCUSSION  between  the  Rev. 
R.  P.  BLAKENEY,  B.  A.,  Incumbent  of  Hyson  Green,  and  the  Rev.  J.  B. 
Naghten,  Roman  Catholic  Missionary  Priest,  Brigg.  Held  in  the  Music 
Hall,  Worksop,  on  the  Evenings  of  January  30th,  31st,  and  February  1st, 
1850,  with  four  Illustrations,  (will  be  ready  in  April). 

BIBLE  ASSOCIATION  REPORTS,  by  HELEN  PLUMPTEE,  Author  of 
"  Scripture  Stories."  18nio.  cloth.  Second  Edition. 

THE  TABERNACLE,  its  uses  to  Israel,  and  Spiritual  application,  with 
a  variety  of  Illuminated  Illustrations,  representing  the  various  metals  and 
colors  peculiar  to  the  original  Mosaic  structure.  Cloth.  Demy  4to. 
Price  10s.  6d. 


A  PROSPECTUS  of  Interesting  Biblical  and  Educational  Models  and 
Illustrations,  may  be  had  on  application. 


WHOLESALE  AND  RETAIL  DEALER  IN 

CORN,  FLOUR,  CHEESE,  &c. 
STOCKWELL  GATE,  MANSFIELD, 

Begs  to  solicit  from  his  Friends  and  the  Public,  a  continuance 
of  that  support  which  he  has  hitherto  enjoyed. 

TILLAGES  of  the  hest  quality,  including  LINSEED  CAKE, 
GUANO,  RAPE  DUST,  and  AGRICULTURAL  SALT, 
on  the  most  reasonable  terms. 

A  carefully  selected  variety  of  TURNIP  SEED,  from  the 
most  eminent  growers,  warranted  true  to  kind,  and  from  pure 
Stocks. 

JOHH  RYCROFT, 
PLUMBER,  GLAZIER,  &  GAS-FITTER, 

WEST  GATE,  MANSFIELD. 


IRON  PIPES  OF  ALL  SIZES,  GAS-FITTINGS,  &c. 
ON  HAND. 


GUARDIAN  FIREAND  LIFE 

INSURANCE  OFFICE. 



COUNTY  HAILSTORM  INSURANCE  COMPANY. 

Insurances  may  be  effected  on  the  most  reasonable  terms,  and 
every  information  obtained  on  application  to 

MR.  C.  J.  WEALS, 

Land  Surveyor  and  Valuer,  Mansfield. 


WILLIAM  WATSON, 

AUCTIONEER,  APPRAISER,  &  AGENT, 

STOCKWELL  GATE,  MANSFIELD, 

Respectfully  informs  the  Public  that  he  is  prepared  to  submit 
for  public  sale  or  private  contract,  property  of  every  descrip- 
tion, on  liberal  terms. 

Real  Estates,  Commercial  Property,  Household  Furniture, 
Publican's,  Grocer's,  Draper's,  &c.  Fixtures  and  Stocks 
valued  either  for  Sale,  Transfer,  Partnerships,  Administrations, 
Assignments,  &'c.  &c. 

W.  W.  will  be  happy  to  render  assistance  to  Executors, 
Administrators,  Assignees,  or  other  persons  who  may  require 
the  services  of  a  person  accustomed  to  general  business. 

All  confidential  communications  attended  to  and  regarded 
with  the  strictest  fidelity. 


Fashionable  French  and  Beaver  HAT  WAREHOUSE; 
CAPS  in  Cloth,  Furs,  &c.  in  the  newest  style ;  an  extensive 
stock  of  Berlin  Wools  and  Patterns ;  Silk ;  Canvass ;  Purse 
Ornaments,  Knitting  and  Crotchet  Books;  Materials  for 
Ladies'  Work,  Hosiery,  &c. 
Observe  the  Address,  W.  Watson,  Stockwell  Gate,  Mansfield. 

THE  NORWICH  UNION 
Fire  Insurance  Society. 

SUBSCRIBED  CAPITAL 
£550,000. 

Insurers  in  this  Old  Established  Society,  are  entitled  to  a 
liberal  return  of  profits. 

MR.  JAMES  CARTER,  Church  Street,  Mansfield, 
Agent  for  this  District. 


LORD  BYRON'S  POETICAL  WORKS. 

THE  PUBLIC  ARE  CAUTIONED  against  deceitfully  spurious 
Editions,  which  are  lettered  "Byron's  Poetical  Works,"  "By- 
ron's Poems,"  &c.,  but  do  not  contain  more  than  half  his 
works.  No  EDITION  is  COMPLETE,  excepting  those  Published 
by  MR.  MURRAY,  as  he  alone  is  the  Proprietor  of  all 
COPYRIGHT. 

Tlw  following  are  the  only  complete  and  Copyright  editions. 
I. 

LORD  BYRON'S  LIFE  AND  LETTERS. 

By  THOMAS  MOORE.     With  Portraits  &  Vignette.     One  Vol.  lloyal  8vo.  15*. 

n. 
LORD  BYRON'S  LIFE  AND  WORKS. 

Collected  and  arranged  with  Notes  by  Moore,  Ellis,  Ileber,  Jeffrey,  Lockhart, 
£c.     Plates.     17  vols.  fcap.  8vo.  63*.;  or  half  morocco,  90*. 
in. 

LORD  BYRON'S  POETICAL  WORKS. 

With  Vignettes,  10  vols.  18mo.  25*. ;  or  gilt  edges,  35*. 

LORD  BYRON'S  POETICAL  WORKS. 

With  Portrait  and  Vignette.     One  Volume.     Royal  8vo.  1 5*. 

LORD  BYRON'S  CHILDE  HAROLD. 

Wrtth  Portit.it  and  Sixty  Vignette  Engravings.     8vo.  21*. 

LORD  BYRON'S  CHILDE  HAROLD. 

With  Vignette.     24mo.  2*.  6</. 

VII. 

LORD  BYRON'S  TALES  AND  POEMS. 

With  Vignettes.     2  vols.  24mo.  5*. 

VIII. 

LORD  BYRON'S  MISCELLANIES. 

With  Vignettes.     3  vols.  24mo.  7*.  6</. 

LORD  BYRON'S  DRAMAS. 

With  Vignettes.     2  vols.  24mo.  5*. 

LORD  BYRONS'  DON  JUAN. 

With  Vignettes.     2  vols.  24mo.  5*. 

LONDON  :    JOHN  MURRAY,  ALBEMARLE  STREET, 

AND  ALL  RESPECTABLE  BOOKSELLERS. 


DA  670  .835  C3  1850  IMST 

Carter,  James, 

A  visit  to  Sherwood  Forest 

47229079 


STUOifr* 


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