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Full text of "A voyage into the Levant, perform'd by command of the late French king : containing the antient and modern state of the islands of the archipelago : as also of Constantinople, the coasts of the Black Sea, Armenia, Georgia, the frontiers of Persia, and Asia Minor : with plans of the principal towns and places of note : an account of the genius, manners, trade, and religion of the respective people inhabiting those parts : and an explanation of variety of medals and antique monuments ..."

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VOYAGE 

INTO     THE 

LEVANT: 

Perform'd  by  Command  of  the  Late  French  King. 

CONTAINING 

The  Antient  and  Modern  State  of  the  Iflands 

of  the  Archipelago  ;  as  alfo  of  Conftantinople,  the  Coafts  of  the 
(Black.  Sea,  Armenia,  Georgia,  the  Frontiers  of  (perfia,  and 
Afia  Minor. 

WITH 

Plans  of  the  principal  Towns  and  Places  of  Note  $  an 
Account  of  the  Genius,  Manners,  Trade,  and  Religion  of  the  re- 
fpedtive  People  inhabiting  thofe  Parts  :  And  an  Explanation  of  Variety 
of  Medals  and  Antique  Monuments. 

Illuftrated  with  Full  Defcriptions  and  Curious  Copper-Plates  of  great 
Numbers  of  Uncommon  Plants,  Animals,  &c.  And  feveral  Obfer- 
vations  in  Natural  Hiftory. 


By  M.  TOVRNEFORT,  of  the  Royal  Academy  of  Sciences,  Chief 
Botanifl  to  the  late  French  King,  &c. 

-  ■  --  -  -  ■  ......  i  i  ■  i  ■  

To  which  is  Prefix'd, 

The  Author's  LIFE,  in  a  Letter  to  M.  Begon  :  As  alfo  his  Elogium,  pro- 
nounc'd  by  M.  FonteneUe,  before  a  publick  AiVembly  of  the  Academy  of  Sciences. 

Adorn'd  with  an  Accurate   MAP    of  the  Author's  Travels,  not  in  the  Reach 

Edition  :    Done  by   Mr.  Semx. 

In    Two    Volumes. 


LONDON, 
Printed  for  D.  Browne,  A.  Bell,  J.  Darby,  A.  Bf.  ttesworth,  J.  Pnvi- 

»S  R.  T  O  N,    C.  R  I  V  I  N  G  T  O  N,    J.  H  O  O  K  E,      R.  C  R  V  T  T  E  N  D  E  N    and     T-  C  O  X, 
J.  B  A  T  T  L  E  y,   E.   S  Y  M  O  N.      M.  DCC  XVIII. 


■..  v,  '/,»•■••'  •-    joj  . 


( a ) 


® 

© 


® 

@ 


@i^@®®#j®^@®©®@®®@0^®©^®^3§S^@®^@i8*^^ 


T  O 

Sir  SAMUEL    STANIER. 

- 

S  I  R, 

)\HE  more  than  equal  Share  1  have  had  in  rendering  into 
Englifli  this  Work^of  the  Celebrated  M.  Tournefort,  giving 

if  me  a  fort  of  (Right  to  make  a  particular  Dedication  5  I  take 
this  publick.  Opportunity,  inflead  of  begging  your  patronage,  to  return 
You  the  Tribute  of  my  Thanks  for  having  early  and  conflantly  honour  d 
me  with  it.  Such  Acknowledgments  were  indeed  the  Original  of \Ad- 
drejfes  of  this  kind, 

A  VOX  AGE  throughout  the  Levant  cannot  fail  of  Acceptance 
with  a  Gentleman,  who  has  him/elf  not  only  traVeXd  great  part  of  ity 
but  bears  as  great  a  Sway,  and  has  as  extended  an  Interefi  in  the 
Commerce  of  the  whole,  as  any  other  Member  whatever,  of  the 
ant'tent  and  opulent  Company  trading  thither.  A  Circumjiance  he- 
reditary fotlie  Staniers,  one  of  whom  1  find,  in  a  Dedication  of 
a  certain  Italian  fBookj  highly  prats' d  for  doing  good  Offices  to  fuch  as 
trafficked  into  the  Levant,  refided,  or  had  any  Correfpondence  there.    This 

A  2  was 


iv  The  Dedication. 

was  Mr.  James  Stanier:  and'  that  the  fame  good  Offices  are 
continu'd  abroad  by  Sir  Samuel  Stanier,  -his  'Beneficence  at 
home  leases  no  room  to  doubt. 

S  I  R, 

TO  U  ^  Iqiown  Skill  in  Languages,  together  with  your  Love  and  Tafte 
of  Polite  Literature,  may  have  already  engaged  you  to  read  this  Piece  in 
the  Original :  if  fo,  without  fore  flailing  your  Judgment,  I  cannot  but 
believe  You  found  this  Relation  of  M.  TournefortV  Voyage  into  the 
Levant  to  be  equally  entertaining  and  improving,  and,  as  it  were>  an 
Encyclopaedia,  a  Circle  or  Courfe  of  all  the  Arts  and  Sciences.  'Tis 
certain  he  himfelf  looted  upon  it  as  his  Maflerpiece,  and  was  much  fonder 
of  this  than  of  any  other  of  his  Performances .  It  may,  however,  be 
juflly  faid  to  be  fo  full  of  unufual  "Terms  and  peculiar  Modes  of  Ex~ 
prejjion,  that  it  required  fmne  Study  and  Pains  to  unfold  the  My  ft  cries  of 
this  Oracle  of  an  Author. 

,      THE  Verfion,  fuch  as  it  is,  1  fubmit  to  your  Candor-,  and  am,  U 

■ 

S  1  %> 

Jour  mofl  Obedient  Humble  Servant, 

John  OzclL  u 


(  V  ^ 


THE 


I    F    E 


0  F 

M,  TO  U  R  N  E  F  0  R  T: 

1  N 

A  Letter  to  M.  Begon,  Intendant  of  the 
Marine  at  Rochefort,  &c. 


SIR, 

| HE  Letter  you  was  pleas'd  to  write  to  my  Father,  fufficiently 
mews  your  Concern  for  the  Death  of  M.  Tournefort.  You 
at  the  lame  time. intimate  how  glad  you  mould  be,  to  know 
the  various  Circumftances  of  his  Life.  I  therefore  do  my 
ielf  che  honour  to  communicate  to .  you  all  the  Particulars  I  am  ac- 
quainted with  relating  to  that  Subject,  and  which  I  learnt  from  the  De- 
ceas'd  himfelf. 

VOUCHSAFE  me,  Sir,  fome  little  Thanks  for  the  Agonies  I  fuiFer, 
to  obey  you  j  fince  Vm  forced  to  a  frefli  Remembrance  of  thofe  happy 
Hours  fpent  ,on    me   by  M.  Tournefort,  to   inform  me  of  his  Travels, 

and 


vi  The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort. 

and  inftrudt  me  in  his  Syftems  and  Difcoveries :  Things  which  I  cannot 
depofite  in  better  hands  than  yours.  No  body  is  ignorant  of  the  Efteem 
you  had  for  him ;  nor  indeed  could  he  mite  it,  deferving  as  he  was  from 
all  Perfons  of  Merit.  Your  Efteem  is  a  fort  of  Tribute  you  think 
owing  to  the  Reputation  and  Memory  of  Great  Men:  witnefs  their 
Portraits,  with  which  you  adorn  your  rare  well-chofen  Library ;  witnefs 
too  that  noble  Hiftory  of  the  Great  Men  of  the  lad  Age,  for  which 
the  World  is  indebted  purely  to  your  Love  of  them. 

NO  doubt  there  will  be  found  excellent  Pens,  that  fhall  make  EIo- 
giums  truly  worthy  of  M.  Tournefort :  But,  Sir,  in  executing  this  me- 
lancholy Duty  which  you  have  engaged  me  to  perform  to  him,  well 
latisfy'd  that  I  only  fpeak  the  Language  of  the  Heart,  I  fhall  be  far  from 
envying  Them,  en  this  occafion,  their  Productions  of  the  Head.  As  I 
cannot  vie  with  them  in  Sublimity  of  Thought,  nor  Politenefs  of  Ex- 
preflion,  my  Endeavours  fhall  only  be  to  reprefent  with  cxa&nefs  fuch 
Facts  as  I  can  call  to  mind. 

JOSEPH  PITTON  DE  TOVRNEFORT  was  born  at  Aix  in 
Provence.  He  had  not  only  the  Birth,  but  Sentiments  and  Virtues  of  a 
Gentleman  :  Advantages  which  he  was  contented  to  pofTefs,  without 
being  ofteritatious  of  'em. 

FROM  his  earlieft  Infancy,  he  felt  that  PaiTioh'for  Plants,  which 
afterwards  caus'd  him  to  carry  the  Knowledge  of  'em  to  fo  high  a  pitch. 
His  innate  Genius  was  his  firft  Mafter  ;  impatient  to  break  out,  it  foon 
knew  how  to  difcover  itfel£  He  was  confefs'd  a  Botanift,  even  before  he 
himfelf  could  know  what  the  Word  meant. 

OFTENTIMES  would  he  Heal  away  from  his  Play. fellows,  to 
purfue  his  Inquiries  after  Vegetables.  His  frequent  Sallies  from  his  Fa- 
ther's Houfe  were  only  to  go  a  fimpling  ;  for  which  be  was  fbmetimes  a 
little  too  feverely  punifh'd,  through  their  Ignorance  who  knew  no  better : 
fucW  however  was  the  Prelude  of  his  Botanick  Excurfions.  He  was  not 
near  fo  much  concern'd  at  thefe  Chaftifements,  as  he  was  pleas'd  WlWn 
he  met  with  a  Vegetable  that  was  new  to  him.  From  hence  'tis  plain,  the 
Education  that  was  given  him  contributed  nothing  towards  his  Knowledge 
in  Botany.  The  Lights  he  acquir'd  therein,  were  fblely  owing  to  his 
happy  Dilpofition,  or  rather  to  a  fort  of  Scientifical  InftinC^. 

THIS 


The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort  vil 

THIS  however  maybe  faid,  that  Art  envying  Nature  the  Glory  of 
forming,  alone,  this  gto wing  Botanift,  threw  in  his  way  the  Works  of 
Diofcorides  and  Matthiolw.  Thefe  he  faw,  and  perus'd  again  and  again  ; 
with  Tranfports  of  Joy,  that  foretoken'd  how  great  a  Figure  he  would 
one  day  make  in  their  Art.  But,  not  content  with  feeing  the  bare  Re- 
prefentation  of  Plants,  becaufe  he  was  not  as  yet  of  an  Age  ripe  enough 
to  underfland  without  help  the  Explications  thofe  Mailers  have  given 
of  'em ;  he  was  refolv'd  to  learn  their  Names,  and  even  their  Properties  : 
and  accordingly,  by  one  means  or  other,  attain'd  his  Defires. 

WHAT  did  he  do,  or  rather  what  did  he  not  do,  to  improve  him- 
felf  in  this  Science  ?  No  place  was  inacceflible  to  him,  where  he  had 
any  iulpicion  of  Plants.  Once,  in  a  more  than  ordinary  Botanical  Fir, 
having  fcaled  a  high  Wall  in  queft  of  fomething  in  that  way,  he  had  like 
to  have  paid  for  his  Curiofity  with  the  lofs  of  his  Reputation,  and  almofl 
that  of  his  Life  too ;  being  taken  for  a  Thief  by  the  Owners  of  the 
Ground,  and  warmly  purfu'd  with  Vollies  of  Stones  and  Brickbats.  This 
Accident  made  him  indeed  more  wary,  but  not  lefs  ardent  in  his  Re-^ 
fearches. 

BOTANY  however  was  not  the  only  Object  of  his  Investigations: 
he  had  the  fame  Fondnefs  for  Chymiftry  and  Anatomy.  They  llrove 
which  fhould  have  the  preference  in  his  Bread,  or  rather  it  was  a  Con- 
tention among  thefe  Sciences,  which  of  'em  fhould  engrofs  him  to  it 
felf.  He  reconciled  their  emulous  Claims,  and  had  the  Art  to  fliare  him- 
felf  among  them  ;  a  fecret  Pre-dile&ion  made  him,  however,  lean  tc* 
Botany,  which  was  always  his  favourite  Study. 

WITH  fuch  Difpofitions,  it  was  impoflible  but  he  fhould  make  great 
advances.  Being  a  younger  Brother,  he  was  deflgn'd  for  the  Church, 
and  accordingly  had  begun  his  Theological  Courfes.  But  Heaven  having 
beftow'd  on  him  an  elder  Brother's  Portion  in  Gifts  of  the  Mind,  and 
being  as  it  were  pre-ordain'd  to  ftudy  the  Author  of  Nature,  in  her  re- 
fpe&ive  Operations,  rather  than  in  fcholaftick  Books,  he  fhew'd  no  great, 
liking  to  the  Ecclefiaftical  State.  He  could  not  take  up  with  Sciences  that 
were  indolent  and  purely  fpeculative ;  the  active  and  practical  fort  were 
thofe  which  alone  engaged  his  Attention.  His  Parents  could  not  in  con- 
fcience  withftand  fuch  laudable  Inclinations,    and  thought  themfelves 

obliged 


viii  The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort.: 

obliged  to  let  him  improve  his  "talent  his  own  way.  '  Then  it  Was  'he 
undertook  his  firft  Travels':  The  moil  unknown  Plants  of  Provence,  Sa- 
i-oj,  and  Daiip mny\  he  foon  became  thoroughly  acquainted  with.  For 
fome  time  he-  flroll'd  from  One  Country  to another,  indifferent  which 
way  he  diredtcd  his  Steps.  He  was  for  examining  all  things,  and  know- 
ing every  thing  at  once.  Yet  being  guided  by  VDifcretion  that  out- 
flript  his  Years,  he  well  law  that  his  Body  could  not  keep  pace  with  his' 
Mind,  and  therefore  was  of  opinion  'twould  be  better  to  conduct  himfelf 
as  it  were  by  Rule. 

HE  prefently  went  to  Mont  pettier,  where  he  bent  himfelf  to  the  Study 
of  Medicine,  and  by  the  Principles  of  Art  riveted  and  inlarg'd  thole: 
Endowments  Nature  had  already  beflow'd  on  him.  His  Tafle  loon  de- 
clar'd  it  felf :  he  contracted  a  fad  Friendfhip  with  M.  Magnol,  a  famous 
Botaniit,  who  would  have  been  the  firft  of  the  Age,  had  he  not  had 
M.  Tournefort  for  his  Contemporary.  This  Gentleman  accompany'd 
him  in  his  Herborizations.  Such  a  Difciple,  you  may  be  fure,  foon 
equal'd  his  Mailer ;  nay,  he  in  a  manner  became  his  Collegue,  and  dif- 
cover'd  divers  Plants  that  till  then  were  unknown. 

HERE  he  form'd  the  Defign  of  travelling  into  Spain.  He  fet  for- 
wards for  Barcelona,  furnifh'd  with  not  a  few  Recommendations,  particu- 
larly to  M.  Salvador,  no  lefs  skilful  in  Pharmacy,  than  famed  for  Bota- 
ny :  and  care  was  had  to  let  him  know  M.  de  Tournefort'^  Relifh  for  that 
Science,  as  well  as  the  Progrefs  he   had  already  made  therein. 

LONGING  to  acquire  further  Knowledge,  our  young  Traveller 
began  his  Journey  by  himfelf  about  the  Clofe  of  Winter,1  undaunted  at 
the  Severity  of  the  Seafbn,  or  the  Dangers  he  expos'd  himfelf  to,  and 
which  were  foretold  him  by  lome  of  his  Friends.  Which  Prediction  was, 
to  his  forrow,  fulfilPd  in  the  Pyrenean  Mountains,  where  the  Miquelets 
fliipt  him  to  his  Skin.  This  Misfortune  mov'd  him:  being  young, 
and  more  a  Botanift  than  a  Philofopher,  he  could  not  refrain  from  weep- 
ing. The  Cold  being  lrkewife  very  violent,  he  conjur'd  the  Robbers  to 
return  him  at  lead  his  Clothes.  May  there  not  be  lbme  particular  Effi- 
cacy in  the  Tears  of  a  Youth  born  to  Great  Things  ?  His,  'tis  certain, 
were  fo  perfoafive,  that  -one  of  the  Rogues  threw  him  his  upper  Coat 
again:  in  which,  by  an  unexpected  Good- fortune,  he  recover'd  fome 

Mony 


The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort.  ix 

Mony  he  had  ty'd  up  in  his  Handkerchief,  which  flipping  down  into  the 
Lining,  had  efcaped  die  Search  of  thefe  Thieves. 

THIS  Refource,  tho  no  extraordinary  one,  help'd  to  reftorc  his  Spi- 
rits.    Philofophy,  which  began  to  dawn  in  his  Soul,  was  his  Support^ 
and  ftrengthen'd  him  againfl:  the  Inclemency  of  the  Weather,  as  well  as 
againft  the  Badnefs  of  his  Fortune.     Yet,  as  Philofophers  have  a  Body 
as  well  as  a  Soul,  fo  M.  Tournefort  being  bare-legg'd,  had  much  ado  to 
reach  the  next  Town,  tho  not  far  off  the  place  where  he  was  robb'd. 
Here  he  put  himfelf  into  an  Equipage  luitable  indeed  to  the  Lowneis  of 
his  Circumftances,  but  far  inferiour  to  his  real  Merit.     In  a  word,  Sir, 
I  have  heard  him  more  than  once  relate  with  pleafure  this  Circumftance 
of  his  Life,    wherein  all  he  could  afford  himfelf  was   a  Thrum-Cap, 
Linen  Trowzers,  and  a  Pair  of  Wooden  Shoes.     And  yet  as  melancholy 
as  his  Cafe  was,  the  Lois  that  molt  afFe&ed  him  was  that  of  the  Re- 
commendatory Letters  he  was  carrying  with  him  to  Barcelona.     One  thing 
did  indeed  comfort  him,  and  that  was  the  Fertility  of  the  Plains,  where 
he  breath' d  a  fweeter  Air  than  in  the  Mountains  he  was  newly  got  out 
of :  to  charm  away  his  Sorrow,  he  gathered  Phyfical  Herbs  all  the  way 
he  went.     Divers  ftrange  Plants,  which  ceas'd  to  be  ftrange  to  him, 
made   him  amends  for  his  late  Sufferings.     He  flatter'^  himfelf  that 
thefe  would  be  his  beft  Credentials  with  the  Perlbn  he  was  directed 
to.     He  was  not  difappointed  of  his  Expectation;  for  no  fboner  had  he 
made  himielf  known,  but  he  was  recerv'd  with  all  the  Civility  he  de- 
ferv'd.     The  Condition  he  appear'd  in,  wrought  as  much  Companion  as 
his  Prefence  created   Pleafiire.      M.  Salvador  left  nothing  undone,   to 

make  him  forget  bisDifafter;  nor  was  it  long  before  his  Endeavours  had 

the  fuccefs  he  defir'd. 
DURING    the  time  that  M.  Tournefort  tarry 'd  in  Catalonia,  he  tra- 

vers'd  the  whole  Country,  accompany'd  by  feveral  Perfons  who  were 

Lovers  of  Botany  ;  and  his  coming  into  that  Country  leem'd  to  be  on 

parpofe  to  difcover  to  them  Variety  of  rare  Plants,  which  they  were  in 

pofTeiTion  of,  without  knowing  it. 

YET  did  he  not  in  this  firft  Journey  meet  with  every  thing  that  he 

had  promis'd  to  himfelf.     His  Return  into  France  had  like  to  have  been 

more  fatal  to  him,  than  his  Departure  out  of  it. 

VoL  L  a  IN 


x  The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort. 

IN  a  certain  Village  hard  by  Perpignan,  the  Houfe  where  he  took  up 
his  Quarters  fell  down  in  the  night-time;  he  continu'd  a  good  while 
bury'd  under  its  Ruins,  and  'twas  almoft  miraculous  he  was  not  fmother'd 
or  crufh'd  to  death. 

HE  return'd  to  Moxtpellier,  to  continue  his  Courfe  in  Medicine,  as 
alfo  his  Operations  in  Chymiftry  and  Anatomy:  in  faying  this,  I  fay 
enough  to  periuade  that  he  perfected  himfelf  in  every  one  of  thofe 
Sciences.  He  afterwards  went  to  Orange,  where  he  was  admitted  Do&or 
of  Phyfick. 

FROM  thence  he  repair'd  to  Jix  .•  But  his  Paflion  for  whatever  had 
the  appearance  of  Natural  Philofophy,  not  permitting  him  to  make  any 
long  ftay  here ;  he  refolv'd  to  try  whether  the  Alps  would  not  be  more 
propitious  to  him  than  the  Pyrenees.  While  he  travelPd  the  Countries 
that  parted  'em,  his  Thoughts  were  perpetually  employ'd  in  the  Study  of 
Vegetables  and  Nature.  High  Mountains  and  fteep  Precipices  were  to 
him  the  moll  inftru&ive  Books  in  the  World,  tho  no  lefs  difficult  than 
dangerous  to  run  over..  Many  a  time,  when  he  had  clamber'd  to  the 
top  of  a  mountainous  rugged  Rock,  'twas  as  much  as  he  could  do  to  get 
down  again. 

M  AUG  RE  fo  many  Fatigues  and  Dangers,  he  thought  he  could 
never  purchafe  tod  dear  the  Pleafure  of  improving  himfelf  y  he  knew  of 
no  greater. 

NEITHER  Plants  nor  Stones,  in  fliort,  nothing  that  relates  to 
Natural  Hiftory  efcaped  his  Attention  wherever  he  went :  he  examin'd 
every  thing  with  an  Eagernefs  that  never  flagg'd. 

THE  Lights  he  acquir'd  were  too  great  to  be  any  longer  conceal'd 
or  fiuitlefs.  Altho  Merit  be  proper  and  perfonal  to  a  Man,  yet  the 
Effects  it  produces  feem  to  be  in  a  manner  foreign  to  him.  This  kind 
©f  Paradox  was  verify'd  in  M.  Tournefort.  Whilfl  he  was  at  Aix  (whi- 
ther he  would  now  and  then  take  a  turn,  as  he  thought  fit)  intirely  bufy'd 
with  his  Phyfical  Obfervations,  his  Merir  was  operating  (without  his 
privity)  at  Paris.  Not  even  his  Prefence  (when  he  came  thither  him- 
felf) contributed  any  thing  to  the  Reputation  he  there  acquir'd  ;  for  his 
Fame  had  got  thither  before  him. 

AMONG 


The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort.  xi 

AMONG  numbers  that  fpoke  in  praife  of  M.  Tournefort,  none  did 
it  fo  efficacioufly  as  Madam  de  Venelk,  Sub-Governefs  of  the  Children 
of  France.  Having  always  been  in  Ariel  Friendship  with  M.  Tournefort's 
Family,  flie  was  minded  to  give  him  more  fobltantial  Proofs  of  it  than 
mere  Commendations.  She  engaged  him  to  come  to  Paris,  and  prefented 
him  to  M.  Fagon,  who  at  that  time  was  chief  Phyfician  to  the  Queen. 

M.  F  AGO  N's  Depth  of  Knowledge  foon  made  him  fenfible  of  that 
of  M.  Tournefort,  who  in  his  firft  Converlation  juftify'd  all  the  advan- 
tageous things  that  had  been  fpoken  of  him.  Overjoy'd  with  having 
lit  on  lb  rare  a  Man,  he  bent  all  his  thoughts  how  to  procure  him  every 
thing  his  marvellous  Talents  deferv'd.  He  made  it  his  Duty  to  the  Pub- 
lick,  and  a  particular  Pleafure  to  himfelf,  to  be  his  Protector ;  and  ac- 
cordingly he  got  him  nominated  Profefibr  of  Botany  in  the  Royal 
Garden. 

M.TOVRNEFO  fiT's  Abilities  foon  drew  to  him  a  numerous  Af- 
fluence of  Men  of  Learning,  or  of  fuch  as  endeavour'd  to  be  fo.  His 
Renown  was  not  confin'd  to  France  ;  foreign  Countries  furniih'd  him  a 
world  of  Admirers,  who  turn'd  their  Admiration  into  Friendfhip,  the 
moment  they  became  acquainted  with  him,  and  ever  after  counted  it  a 
Glory  to  carry  on  with  him  a  Correlpondeuce  of  Love  and  Literature. 

IN  his  Botanick  Lectures  he  join'da  ufeful  Pradtick  to  a  learned 
Theory ;  and  in  his  divers  Herborizations  (Simplings)  about  Parti,  he 
taught  to  know  on  the  (pot  the  feveral  Plants  he  had  before  given  a  de- 
fcription  of. 

FOR  the  ufeful  Ernbeliihment  of  the  Royal  Garden,  he  travel'd  to 
Spain  and  Portugal,  by  the  King's  Order ;  as  likewife  into  England  and 
Holland.  At  Oxford  he  had  feveral  Conferences  with  Dr.  Goddard,  who 
conceiv'd  fo  great  an  Efteem  for  him,  that  he  imparted  to  him  the  ad- 
mirable Secret  of  his  Drops.  So  true  is  it,  that  Men  of  real  Learning 
refpeel  and  cherifh  Merit  in  the  Perfon  even  of  their  Rivals  in  Learn- 
ing, tho  they  be  of  another  Nation  :  their  Intellectual  Parts  feem  to 
make  'em  all  of  one  Country. 

M.TOVRNEFORT  brought  home  from  his  Travels  very  large 
quantities  of  uncommon  Plants ;  and  many  more  were  fent  to  him  by  Per- 
fons  whofe  Acquaintance  he  had  cultivated  in  divers  Countries :  fo  that  by 

a  2  his 


xii  The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort. 

his  means  the  King's  Garden  is  become  the  richeft  Magazine  of  Plants 
of  any  in  Europe,  perhaps  of  the  whole  World ;  it  is,  as  one  may  fay, 
the  very  Seat  and  Manfion  of  Botany. 

HIS  Skill  and  Capacity  were  too  generally  acknowledg'd,  not  to  ob- 
tain the  Juftice  they  deferv'd.  The  King,  whole  liberal  Hands  were  con- 
tinually open  to  pour  Favours  on  Men  of  Worth,  found  M,  Tournefort  a 
Subject  truly  worthy  of  the  Academy  of  Sciences.  He  was  inftantly 
admitted  therein  among  the  number  of  Penfionaries  in  169 1. 

MONSIEUR  the  Chancellor  de  Pontchartrain,  who  was  at  that 
time  Comptroller-General  of  the  Finances  and  Secretary,  of  State,  had 
the  Academies  .under  his  Care.  Being  no  lefs  juflr  and  certain  in  the 
Choices  he  made,  than  profound  in  the  Sciences  to  which  he  condefcended 
to  apply  himfelf ;  he  intruded  the  Care  of  the.  Academy  of  Sciences  to 
his  Nephew  the  Abbot  Bignon,  to  whofe  good  Tafte  and  penetrating  Judg- 
ment we  owe  the  Nomination  of  M.  Tournefort.  Thus,  Sir,  the  Firft- 
fruits  of  his  Adminiftration  were  confecrated  to  the  Glory  of  the  Con> 
rnonwealth  of  Learning,  by  the  Choice  he  made  of  two  Men  of  fiich 
diftinguifh'd  Merit  as  the  late  M.  Tournefort  and  M.  Homberg,  who  fince 
has  alio  been  one  of  the  principal  Ornaments  of  that  Academy. 

THE  more M. Tournefort  came  in  view,  the  more  his  different  Qua- 
lifications were  taken  notice  of .  The  Philofophers,  the  Chymifts,  the 
Anatomifts,  and  the  Geometricians,  admired  in  him  thofe  rare  Talents  for 
which  themfelves  are  admired..  Tho  he  was  flricUy  only  of  she  Clals 
of  Botanifls,  yet  his  Genius  was  capable  of  every  thing. 

IN  order  to  juftify  his  Majefty's  Choice  to  the  Learned  World,  he 
publihVd  in  1694,  his  Element*  of  Botany,  or  Method  how  to  know  Plants, 
in  three  Volumes  in  Octavo.  The  firft  contains  the  Explications  of  fev&- 
ral  Plants ;  and  the  two  laft  confift  of  Plates  giving  an  analytical  De- 
fcription  of  the  Leaves,  Flowers,  Fruits,  and  Seeds  of  all  the  Plants  in 
the  firft  Volume  :  and  for  the  fake  of  Strangers,  M.  Tournefort  afterwards 
publiflfd  them  in  Latin,  with  the  Title  of  Injtitutiones  Rei  Herbaria. 

IN  this  Work  be  found  a  way  to  clear  the  main  Difficulties  of 
Botany,  by  reducing  the  Eight  Thouland  Eight  Hundred  Forty  Six 
Species  of  Plants  at  that  time  known,  to  Six  Hundred  Threescore  and 
Thirteen  Genera ;  and  thofe  Genera  into  Two  and  Twenty  ClalTes.    He 

exactly 


The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort.  xiri 

exactly  fpecifies  the  effential  Figures  and  Qualities  that  diftinguifh  them, 
as  well  in  their  Flower  as  in  their  Fruit  and  Seed.  And  as  Diofcorides 
treated  only  of  Six  Hundred  forts  of  Plants,  M.  de  Fontenelle,  in  his 
Hiflory  of  the  Academy  of  Sciences  for  the  Year  1700,  fays  with  his 
ufual  Delicacy,  That  by  the  Labours  of  M.  Tournefort,  we  are  now  ac- 
quainted with  more  Genera  of  Plants,  than  Diofcorides  knev  Species. 

AFTER  the  Reputation  M.  Tournefort  had  acquired,  did  he  not  de- 
ferve  to  be  of  a  Faculty  of  Phyfick  fb  famous  as  that  of  Paris  ?  'Twas 
even  necefTary  in  common  Decency,  that  he  fhould  be  received  into  it. 
M.  Fagon,  to  whom  he  dedicated  his  Thefis,  was  reciprocal  Surety  be- 
tween both;  and  therein  fhew'd  that  he  was  no  lefs  ftudious  of  the 
Glory  of  a  Body  under  his  Protection,  than  defirous  of  the  Advance- 
ment of  a  Man  that  was  likely  to  be  one  of  its  mod  eminent  Members. 

AFTERWARDS  M.  Tournefort  wrote  his  Hiflory  of  the  Plants  that 
grow  about  Paris,  with  their  Medicinal  Vfes.  It  came  not  out  till  1698. 
He  therein  fhews,  that  France  pofTefTes  within  her  own  Bolbm  whole- Trea- 
sures of  Remedies,  and  Springs  of  Health  which  fhe  was  ignorant  of,  and 
which  perhaps  might  have  frill  continu'd  unknown  to  her,  but  for  M.  Tour- 
neforfs  Application  and  Inquiries.  His  Elements  of  Botany  had  taught  how 
to  diftinguifh  one  Plant  from  another ;  this  Book  taught  a  way  to  learn  their 
Virtues  by  means  of  a  chymical  Analyfis.  The  Author  there  fhews  in 
a  convincing  manner,  that  any  Artifl  obferving  thereby  whether  Alkali, 
Acid,  Sulphur,  fome  of  the  Salts,  Earth  or  Water  prevail  in  them,  may 
clearly  diftinguifh  their  Qualities,  and  judge  in  what  Diftemper  each  Plant 
is  prevalent. 

NOT  fatisfy'd  with  having  made  an  Analyfis  of  Plants,  he  alfb  fta- 
dy'd  their  Anatomy  ;  and  diflinguifh'd  in  them  Parts  like  to  thofe  of 
Animals,  before  him  unknown.  His  Eye,  affifted  with  the  Micro- 
fcope,  difcover'd  Pipes  through  which  the  nutritious  Juice  of  the  Earth 
filtrated,  and  others  whereby  they  flow'd  back  again  ;  he  compares  them 
to  the  Veins  and  Arteries.  He  likewife  found  out,  by  his  Penetration 
other  Conduits  like  wreathed  Pillars,  by  means  whereof  the  Air  contri- 
butes to  the  Nourifhment  and  Support  of  Plants,  and  is  carry'd  into  the 
Trachian  Arteries,  or  what  we  may  call  the  Lungs,  which  till  then  were 
unknown  to  us. 
*  'TWAS 


xiv  The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort. 

'TWAS  too  incoufiderablc  a  thing  in  his  Thoughts  to  have  found 
out  in  Plants  a  Life  almoft  fenfitive ;  he  renew'd,  and,  which  is  more, 
demonstrated  a  Syltem  of  the  vegetative  Life  of  Stones.  Several  cu- 
rious Differtations,  which  he  read  to  the  Academy  of  Sciences  upon  this 
Subject,  acquired  him  abundance  of  Followers. 

W  E  alio  owe  to  him  a  thoufand  furprizing  Particulars  relating  to  the 
Formation  of  Corals,  Spunges,  Sea-Muflirooms,  Lithophites  and  itony 
Plants,  or  others  that  grow  at  the  bottom  of  the  Sea :  he  calls  them  by 
the  name  of. marine  Plants,  to  diftinguifh  them  from  the  maritime  ones 
that  grow  on  the  Sea-fhore. 

M.  TQVRNEFORT  extended  his  Syftem  of  Vegetation  to  Mine- 
rals, and  even  to  Metals,  Rock-Chryltals,  and  precious  Stones.  Some 
may  perhaps  imagine,  that  he  flung  out  thefe  Notions  at  a  venture : 
but,  Sir,  this  was  very  far  from  being  his  Character.  His  Refervednefs 
was  fo  great  in  this  relpecT:,  that  he  was  rather  fcrupulous  than  fanciful : 
bare  Conjecture,  unfupported  by  Proofs,  had  no  weight  with  him.  He 
built  wholly  upon  certain  Experiments  or  folid  Demonstrations :  fo  that 
every  thing  he  advanc'd,  tho  out  of  modefty  he  might  do  it  only  as  an 
Obfervatioo,  might  go  for  experimented,  with  a  Prabatum  eft. 

H  E  knew  how  to  draw  Profit  from  mere  Curiofity.     There  was  not 

a  thing  in  his  Collections,  but  what  fupported  fome  Point  of  his  Syltem. 

For  inftance,  he  had  maintain'd  that  in  a  certain  Seafon  of  the  Year  the 

Coral  emits,  at  the  extremity  of  its  Branches,  an  acrid  Liquor  heavier 

than  the  Sea- water,  which  confequently  finks  to  the  bottom,  and  being 

extremely  clammy,  fattens  to  the  firit  folid  Body  that  it  meets :  divers 

Corals,  which  he  had  gather'd  together,  were  the  proof  of  this  curious 

Propagation.     He  fhew'd  fome  of  all  Ages  and  of  all  Sorts,  from  their 

flrft  Stage  (which  is  as  it  were  the  Bud)  to  their  compleat  Formation. 

Among  the  Corals  he  pofTefs'd,  there  were  fome  of  different  forts  of  red, 

of  role-colour,  flem-colour,  white,  black,  and  fillemot :  fome  growing 

upon  Flints,  others  on  pieces  of  Wood,   on  Shells,  on  bits  of  broken 

Earthen- Ware,  and  even  on  a  piece  of  a  human  Skull;  and  they  all  as  it 

were  incorporated  with  thofe  various  Subftances  which  lay  at  the  bottom 

of  the  Sea,  and  on  which  they  commenc'd  their  Growth. 

*  AS 


The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort.  x  v 

AS  to  the  Vegetation  of  Stones,  we  are  obliged  to  M. Tournefort  for 
the  reviving  of  this  Hypothefis,  which  had  been  long  forgotten.     In- 
form'd  by  his  Reading,  but  much  more  by  his  Travels,  he  examin'd  with 
a  knowing  Attention  every  thing  in  general  that  could  have  the  lead  re- 
lation to  it.    When  he  had  made  fome  Difcoveries,  it  was  not  enough  to 
fatisfy  him  ;  he  not  only  fearch'd  the  Caufes  of  them,  but  he  muft  alfb- 
have  the  Proofs.     We  owe  thofe  Proofs,  and,  if  we  may  be  allow'd  to 
go  fb  far,  the  Evidence  of  this  Syftem,  to  the  Reflections  he  made,  and 
at  the  fame  time  to  the  Care  he  took  in  collecting  every  thing  that  could 
fupport  and  ftrengthen  his  Opinion. 

,  OBSERVING  that  the  Sea-Mufhrooms,  Corals,  and  the  other 
{tony  Plants,  were  Bodies  ever  organized,  and  conftantly  of  the  fame 
Conftru&ion,  each  according  to  its  Species,  tho  found  in  different  Coun- 
tries ;  he  concluded,  that  each  Species  had  its  peculiar  Germen. 

FURTHERMORE,  having  in  fome  Shells  found  very  hard  Chalk, 
and  in  others  Flint-ftones  of  much  larger  fize  than  the  Hole  of  the.  Shell 
could  admir ;  he  thence  infer'd,  that  thofe  Subftances  could  not  be  re- 
ceived therein  any  how,  but  when  they  were  liquid  or  only  in  their  firfl 
Speck  of  Entity,  and  that  afterwards  they  mufl  have  enlarg'd  and  har- 
dened, in  proportion  as  they  came  to  maturity. 

THIS  great  Philofbpher  went  further,  and  proved  that  Shells  vege- 
tate ;  that  by  a  kind  of  Fraternity  between  them  and  Stones,  they  mu- 
tually incorporated  the  one  with  the  other ;  and  that  fometimes  Stones 
invelop'd  the  Germina  of  Shells,  which  had  their  Growth,  fb  inclos'd  ;  and 
at  other  times  the  Shells  cover'd  over  the  Germina  of  Stones,  which 
throve  in  their  bofom.     He  had  Collections  of  both  forts. 

AS  to  the  Vegetation  of  Metals,  Minerals,  Rock-Chryftal  and  pre- 
cious Stones,  M.  Tournefort  proved  it  evidently  by  divers  Marcatfites,, 
wherein  Nature  had  taken  pleafure  to  make  a  mixture  no  lefs  curious  than 
humorous,   of  Sulphur,    Vitriol,   Iron,    Copper,   Marble  and  Chryftal, 
Some  more  rich  were  ftreak'd  with  Threds  of  the  pureft  Gold  and  Sil- 
ver, running  through  a  fine  Marble.     Other  Mar caffites,  flill  nobler  than, 
the  laft,  had  a  mixture  of  feveral  Metals  with  precious  Stones.     In  fome 
you  might  fee  Emeralds,  Silver,  or  Copper  enchas'd,  and  as  it  were  incor- 
porated. 


xv i  The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort. 

porated  together  :  in  others,  Rubies,  Arnethifts,  Topazes,  or  various 
Stones  of  Value,  which  Nature  had  employ'd  and  mingled  in  the  fame 
manner.  This  excellent  Naturalift  had  collected  Pieces  of  each  of  the 
Minerals,  Metals,  Marbles,  Chryftals,  and  precious  Stones  of  all  Quali- 
ties, and  even  of  all  the  different  Bakings  that  the  Earth  gives  them. 
Herein  he  had  lb  many  convincing,  tho  filent  Proofs  of  the  Syftern  he 
propos'd,  of  the  Formation  and  Growth  of  all  thefe  Bodies  by  way  of 
Vegetation.  Thus,  Sir,  one  might  fay  of  all  thefe  Difcoveries  made  by 
M.  Tournefort,  that  he  was  fo  watchful  a  Spy  upon  Nature,  that  at  length 
he  found  out  her  very  Recipe  in  a  vaft  many  of  her  Operations. 

'TWAS  not  out  of  a  vain  Curiofity  that  he  compofed  his  Cabinet, 
which  contain'd  within  it  lelf  feveral  others  o  f  different  forts ;  the  whole 
being  of  ineftimable  value.  Always  taken  up  with  his  Defigns  in  Natural 
Hiftory,  he  was  much  lefs  ftudious  about  making  it  curious,  than  about 
rendering  it  ufeful.  Upon  a  due  Examination  of  what  feem'd  in  him  to 
be  only  bare  [Amulement,  there  appear'd  to  be  Labour  and  Views ;  fo 
that  the  Agreeable  was  mix'd  with  the  Ufeful,  and  the  Ufeful  was  found 
even  in  what  leaft  feem'd  to  be  fb. 

WHAT  I  have  been  faying,  is  inanifeft  From  every  thing  in  his  Ca- 
binet. The  prodigious  quantities  of  Plants  that  he  had  collected ;  rare 
Woods  and  Fruits  ;  the  Druggery,  confuting  of  above  eight  hundred 
fimple  and  natural  Remedies ;  the  perfect  Collection  of  Shells,  the  molt 
fingular  in  every  kind  ;  the  Minerals ;  the  Marcaffites  ;  the  Metals ;  the 
precious  Stones,  the  extraordinary  and  even  die  common  ones ;  the  Pe- 
trifications j  the  Congelations  ;  the  different  Corals  ;  the  S.ea-Mufh- 
rooms  ;  the  Lithophites ;  the  feverai  marine,  maritime,  and  ftony  Plants  ■ 
the  ftrange  figured  Horns  of  Animals ;  the  fcarce  Infects,  Reptiles, 
Fifhes,  Birds,  Animals  ;  in  a  word,  a  great  number  of  other  things,  which 
in  the  eye  of  fome  People  might  feem  to  be  merely  curious,  all  had  their 
Offices  in  Natural  Hiftory.  His  Cabinet  (if  I  may  venture  at  fuch  a 
Metaphor)  was  a  fecond  Atky  to  which  the  Creatures,  animate  and  in- 
animate, were  come  to  own  themfelves  as  it  were  the  Tributaries  of  him 
who  had  brought  them  together;  for  each  Piece,  according  to  M.  Tourne- 
fort,  had  its  Quota  of  Proofs  to  pay  in. 

4-  HE 


The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort.  xvii 

H  E  had  formM  a  Defigu  of  writing  an  exact  and  methodical  Hiftory 
of  all  thefe  Cuiiofities :  but  he  was  prevented  by  the  Voyage  into  the 
Levant,  which  he  undertook  in  the  Year  1 700,  at  the  King's  Command, 
and  under  the  Aufpices  of  M.  the  Count  de  Pontcbartrain.  His  Majefty 
gave  orders,  that  M.  Tournefort  mould  carry  with  him  a  Painter,  to  take 
the  Views  of  the  Places  through  which  they  mould  pals,  and  to  draw 
(uch  curious  Plants,  Animals,  and  other  things,  as  he  mould  find  in  the 
Courfe  of  his  Journey.  For  this  purpofe  they  pitchM  upon  M  Jubriet, 
an  excellent  Painter  in  Miniature  ;  and  the  Academy  of  Sciences  named 
for  his  Companion  M.  de  Gundelfcheimer,  a  German  Phyfician,  excellently 
skilPd  in  Botany. 

M.TOVRNEFORT  laid  down  a  Plan  for  his  Voyage  truly  worthy 
the  Prince  that  commanded  it,  and  the  Subject  that  performed  it.  His 
Views  in  it  were  indeed  almoft  univerfal.  As  he  knew  himfelf  to  be  a 
Man  as  well  as  a  Scholar,  his  Defign  was  to  make  his  Travels  as  ufeful  to 
Mankind  in  general,  as  to  the  Sciences  in  particular. 

ONE  of  his  chief  Objects  was  Geography;  he  propos'd  to  explain 
the  antient,  and  efpecially  to  rectify  the  modern.  Not  only  Cities,  but 
whole  Provinces,  had  changed  their  Names  as  often  as  their  Matters. 
The  Sea  had  fwallow'd  up  many  Iflands,  taken  notice  of  in  antient  Au- 
thors. Others  had  appear'd  fince,  and  confequently  were  unknown  to 
them.  Whole  Towns  had  been  funk  into  the  Earth,  and  Lakes  formM 
in  their  places.  All  theie  Alterations  were  Co  many  Defects  in  Geogra- 
phy, which  M.  Tournefort  refolvM  to  rectify. 

THE  Advantages  likely  to  accrue  to  Botanicks  were  not  lefs  confide- 
rable.  He  allotted  it  for  one  of  his  ufeful  Diverfions,  to  examine  upon 
the  ipot  whether  what  Tbeofbraftus,  Diofcorides,  Matthiolm,  and  leveral 
other  Authors,  have  written  concerning  Plants,  were  conformable  to 
Truth.  His  Exactnels  ftrongly  inclined  him  to  inquire  whether  they 
had  not  imposM  upon  Nature,  or  whether  Nature  her  felf  had  not  dege- 
nerated fince  their  Obferyations. 

IT  had  been  accounted  Temerity  in  any  but  M. Tournefort,  fo  much 

as  to  doubt  of  what  the  Antients  have  once  faid  :  But  the  Sequel  has 

fully  juftifyM  his  Doubts,  which  were  as  laudable  as  ufeful.     Antiquity,  in 

this  Article,    has  gatherM  no   advantage  from   its   Priority  of  Birth: 

Vol.  I.  b  M. 


xviii  The  L  i  f  e  of  M.  Tournefort. 

M.  Tournefort  has  fet  it  right  upon  many  occafions.  Thofc  antient  Au- 
thors had  falfify'd  Nature,  with  a  view  perhaps  of  etnbelifhing  her : 
M.  Tourwfort's  Obfervations  have  in  a  manner  reftored  her  to  her  felf  • 
me  has  in  his  hands  recover'd  that  true  fimple  Beauty,  which  ought  to 
ihine  in  her. 

I N  more,  his  Intention  in  his  Voyage  was  to  collect  every  thing  in 
general  that  was  worthy  his  Attention  in  all  kinds  of  Sciences,  or  which 
might  any  ways  ferve  to  enrich  the  Study  of  Phyfick  and  the  Common- 
wealth of  Learning. 

ALMOST  three  Years  were  fpent  in  thefe  learned  Travels.  As 
Botanicks  were  his  chief  Delight,  he  fimpled  in  all  the  Iflands  of  the 
Archipelago,  upon  the  Coafts  of  the  Black  Sea,  in  Bithynia,  Pontm,  Cap- 
j>adocia,  Armenia,  Georgia,  quite  to  the  Confines  of  Perjia.  In  his  Return 
he  took  a  different  Road,  in  hopes  of  rinding  new  Subjects  of  Obferva- 
tion,  and  came  home  by  Galatia,  Mjfia,  Lydia,  and  Ionia. 

HIS  Reading  had  already  furniih'd  him  with  fuch ,  a  full  Know- 
ledge of  all  thofe  Countries,  that  when  he  came  there  he  found  himfelf 
as  it  were  naturalized  in  each  by  his  Learning.  So  that  he  was  the  pro- 
pereft  Man  in  the  world  to  examine  the  Truth  of  whatever  had  been 
related  of  them  extraordinary,  and  to  difcover  what  before  had  efcaped 
the  Inquiries  of  Travellers.. 

PHYSICK,  which  he  pra&is'd  with  the  moft  perfect  Difmtereft  a- 
mong  the  Rich,  and  with  extreme  Charity  towards  the  Poor,  gave  him 
entrance  every  where-  By  this  means  he  found  great  helps  towards 
the  Accomplishment  of  his  Defigns,  to  which  the  Cuftoms  of  thole 
Countries  were  very  contrary.  But  his  perfonal  Merit,  and  the  Obliga- 
tions he  laid  on  the  People  he  had  to  do  with,  eafily  made  them  forget 
he  was  a  Stranger.  We  may  fafely  affirm,  he  omitted  nothing  that 
might  fupport  with  dignity  the  Glory  of  the  Prince,  at  whofe  command 
he  undertook  his  Travels..  He  was  obliged  to  put  an  end  to  them,  and 
to  embark  at  Smjma  for  France,  with  the  regret  of  not  being  able  to  go 
into  Egypt  and  Syria,  upon  account  of  the  contagious  Diflempers 
which  then  infected  thole  Countries. 

I  F  it  had  been  in  M.  Toumeforfs  power  to  have  compleated  his  mighty 
Defigns,  and  feen  all  the  Places  he  intended,  how  vaftly  had  Phyfick 

%  been 


The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort.  xix 

been  enrichM  by  it !  Tho  he  faw  but  part,  yet  we  owe  to  him  the  Know- 
ledge of  Thirteen  Hundred  Fifty  Six  Plants  which  he  brought  home  with 
him,  and  which  before  were  never  heard  of.  Some  of  them  fell  naturally 
into  the  Genera  he  had  before  given  an  account  of.  All  the  trouble  he  was 
at  to  entertain  thefe  new  Botanical  Guefls,  was  to  form  Five  and  Twenty 
new  Genera,  under  which  he  mufter'd  fuch  Plants  as  did  not  agree  with 
any  of  thofe  he  had  before  eftablifh'd.  Of  thefe  he  compos'd  a  Book, 
intitled,  Corollarium  Inflitutionum  Rei  Herbaria.  And  in  order  to  immor- 
talize his  Gratitude  to  his  Protectors,  and  his  Affection  to  his  particular 
Friends,  he  gave  their  Names  to  many  of  thofe  Plants  that  wanted  them. 

WHAT  he  further  difcover'd  relating  to  Stones,  could  not  but  im- 
prove his  Syflem  of  their  Vegetation.  The  Defcription  he  read  to  the 
Academy  of  Sciences  of  a  Labyrinth  which  is  in  the  Ifland  of  Ca»diay 
and  the  Reflections  he  join'd  to  it,  have  carry'd  that  Syftem  up  to  a  Cer- 
tainty. He  had  obferv'd,  that  in  many  parts  of  that  Labyrinth  there  were 
written  upon  the  Walls,  which  are  a  quick  Rock  and  of  a  greyiih  colour, 
the  Names  of  People  who  had  been  there,  and  that  the  Letters  were  of  a 
much  whiter  colour  than  the  Stone  whereon  they  were  cut.  Thefe 
Names  could  have  been  carved  in  the  Rock  no  way  but  with  the  Chizzel, 
and  yet  they  jutted  out  about  two  lines  in  fome  places,  and  three  in 
others  :  fo  that  the  Letters,  which  at  flrft  were  hollow,  are  now  become 
embofTed.  Hence  he  infer'd,  that  the  nutritious  Juice  of  the  Stone  being 
extravafated,  and  finding  thofe  Fractures  where  there  was  an  Interruption 
of  the  Fibres,  had  made  a  kind  of  Callofky ;  in  the  fame  manner  as  it 
happens  to  Trees,  whereon  any  Letters  have  been  cut  or  graved.  He 
waS'fatisfy'd,  that  it  was  the  lame  natural  Mechanifin  which  produced 
the  like  Effects  in  both,  and  that  this  Mechanifin  could  be  nothing  but 
Vegetation. 

T  O  add  fome  further  Proofs  to  thofe  already  related,  M.  Tournefort 
fhew'd,  that  the  Stones  which  we  call  Jmmon' s-Horns,  Eagle-Stones, 
Toad-Stones,  Pyrites  whether  oval  or  cylindrical,  Judaick-Stones,  Ser- 
pents-Eyes, Aftroite,  Boulogne,  Florence-Stones,  which  always  reprefent 
the  fame  Landfchapes,  and  the  fame  ruinated  Towns  ;  the  Dendroides, 
or  a  fort  of  Agate  which  reprefents  Sea-Coafts,  Fortifications,  Shrubs, 
or  Landfchapes ;  all  Rock-Chryflals  cut  in  Panes,  or  with  feveral  Faces ; 

b  2  in 


xx  The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort 

in  a  word,  many  other  Stones  could  come  only  of  Germintt  particular  to 
each  of  them.  The  reafon  he  gives  for  this  Opinion,  is,  that  they  all 
retain  the  fame  Figures,  and  are  always  organized  exactly  in  the  fame 
manner,  each  after  its  Species.  From  this  Principle  he  concludes,  that 
it  was  a  proof  that  thefe  Stones  always  produced  their  like,  in  the  lame 
manner  as  each  Plant  and  Tree  follow  the  Species  of  the  Germen  in 
which  they  are  inclofed ;  Nature  never  making  any  miftake,  and  always 
diftributing  to  them  like  a  common  Mother  the  Juices  neceilary  for  their 
Increafe  and  Vegetation. 

THIS  Syftem  was  ftrengthen'd  by  feveral  Stones  which  M.  Tournefort 
produced;  they  had  been  broken,  in  all  probability,  at  the  time  of  the 
rifing  of  their  Sap  :  and  Nature  herfelf  had  pieced  them  together  again 
by  a  Solder,  which  was  nothing  but  a  Callofity  form'd  by  the  nutritious 
Juice  of  thofe  Stones,  which  after  having  rejoin'd  and  glu'd  the  pieces, 
had  cover' d  'em  over  again  for  about  the  thicknefs  of  half  a  line  :  nay, 
fome  were  found,  which  in  their  rejoining  had  inclofed  fome  Rock- 
Chryftals  and  fmall  Diamonds. 

THE  Hardnels  of  Stone  might  ferve  as  a  pretence  for  Incredulity  touch- 
ing the  Filtration  of  the  nutritious  Juice  through  their  Pores.  To  remove 
this,  M,  Tournefort  obferv'd,  that  the  Heart  of  BM-s/7-Wood,  Iron- wood, 
Guaiacum,  Ebony,  and  fome  other  Woods,  the  Bones  of  fome  Animals  and 
Fiffies,  equal'd,  if  not  exceeded,  the  Hardnels  of  Stones.  That  neverthelefs 
'twas  unconteftably  true,  that  thofe  Trees  and  thofe  Bones  received  Nou- 
rifhment,  the  one  from  the  Juices  of  the  Earth,  and  the  others  from  the 
Subftance  of  the  Animal  of  which  they  made  part. 

1  H  E  further  fupported  this  Opinion,  by  taking  notice  that  the  hardeft 
Stones,  Marble,  Porphyry,  Jewels,  and  even  Diamonds,  have  a  Thred 
and  Veins,  which  make  'em  eafier  to  cut  one  way  than  another ;  which 
{hews  that  they  really  have  Pores,  tho  thofe  Pores  are  very  compact 
and  imperceptible.  If,  fays  he,  we  have  not  hitherto  been  able  to 
find  the  Gertnina.  of  Stones,  flony  Plants,  Shells,  Minerals  or  Metals  ; 
that  is  no  manner  of  reafon  for  denying  their  Exiftence :  fince  it  is  cer- 
tain, we  have  not  yet  difcover'd  any  Seeds  of  Mufhrooins,  Nightfhades, 
Truffles,  Moffes,  nor  of  a  great  many  other  Plants ;  tho  in  good  Phy- 
ficks  nothing  comes  but  by  Generation  in  matter  of  Plants,  as  in  matter 
of  Animals  and  Infects.  THUS, 


The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort.  xxt 

THUS,  Sir,  M.Tournefort  may  be  call'd  the  Reflorer  of  the  Syftem 
of  the  Vegetation  of  Stones,  and  the  Founder  of  that  of  Univerfal  Ve- 
getation. 

AFTER  having  learnedly  explained  the  Formation  of  thefe  various 
Works  of  Nature,  he  gave  a  defcription  of  feveral  deep  Grottos  which 
he  had  feen  in  the  Courfe  of  his  Travels.  Among  the  different  Orna- 
ments with  which  Nature  had  embelifli'd  thofe  fubterranean  Palaces? 
M.  Tournefort  found  a  cylindrical  Block  of  Marble,  which  had  been 
broken  through  the  middle.  ■  He  obferv'd,  that  in  this  Marble  you  might 
diftinguiih  the  Heart,  the  Bark,  a  kind  of  Sap,  and  even  feveral  different 
Saps,  which  might  plainly  be  known  by  feveral  Circles,  each  iome  lines 
thick,  that  furrounded  it.  By  this  one  might  come  to  know  the  Age  of 
this  Marble,  as  we  know  the  Age  of  Trees  by  the  like  Circles,  when, 
they  have  been  cut  diametrically. 

THESE  Grottos  were  befides  enrich'd  with  Congelations  and  Chryf- 
tallizations  mofl  perfectly  beautiful,  and  irregularly  adorn'd  with  an 
agreeable,  tho  confufed  Mixture,  of  all  kinds  of  Metals,  Marbles,  and 
Rock-Chryftals  incorporated  together.  Several  different  pieces,  which 
he  brought  home  with  him,  were  the  proof  he  alledg'd  to  demonftrate 
the  Fluidity,  or  at  leaft  the  Supplenefs,  of  all  thefe  Bodies  at  their  For- 
mation, which  continues  in  part  as  long  as  they  are  flanding  upon  their 
Stocks  in  the  Bowels  of  the  Earth.  And  as  in  all  thefe  things  M.  Tourne- 
fort feem'd  to  have  become  Nature's  Confident  without  asking  her  Con- 
fent,  fb  he  thought  he  had  a  right  to  betray  her  for  our  benefit,  by  making 
her  Miracles  familiar. 

LASTLY,  Having  proved  every  thing  that  he  had  advanced,  he  was 
willing  to  give  it  Authority  from  the  Teftimonies  of  Authors  facred  and 
profane.  He  did  fb  by  a  PafTage  in  Tliny  the  Naturalift,  who  informs  u?y 
that  Theophraflus  and  Mutianus  fancy 'd  that  Stones  produce  other  Stones : 
and  by  a  PafTage  of  St.  Gregory  Naz,ianz,eny  where  this  Father  maintains, 
that  many  Authors  had  written  that  Stones  made  love  to  each  other.  This 
Love,  tho  very  cold,  is  neverthelefs  fruitful ;  fince  from  the  Creation  of 
the  firft  Stones,  the  Race  has  been  perpetuated  to  this  day ;  and  every 
one  of  'em  has  preferv'd  its  Species,  in  the  fame  manner  as  the  Trees 
and  Plants  have  done. 

AS 


xxii  The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort. 

AS  the  Birth  and  Generation  of  Stones  had  taken  up  M.  Tourneforfs 
Meditations,  fo  the  Caufes  of  their  Deftru&ion  feem'd  to  him  to  deferve 
to  do  the  fame.  He  made  exact  Obfervations  upon  the  Lithophagi,  a 
Name  given  to  certain  little  Worms,  which  fubfift  by  gnawing  of -Stones. 
One  would  think  it  no  eafy  matter  to  perfuade  one's  felf  that  Stones  can 
have  Inhabitants,  and  even  ferve  them  for  Food  as  well  as  Habitation. 
And  yet  both  thefe  Wonders  are  certain  ;  and  Stones  have  in  them  a  fort 
of  little  Republicks  of  thefe  Worms,  which  feed  upon  them.  They  are 
covered  with  a  very  minute  Shell,  greenifh  and  afh-colour'd ;  and  the 
Cavities  thefe  make  by  gnawing  the  Stones,  are  what  the  Vulgar  afcribe 
to  the  Impreflion  of  the  Moon. 

THE  different  Countries M. Tournefort  had  journey'd through, furnifli'd 
hiin  with  Subjects  for  feveral  particular  DilTertations.  Among  others,  he 
has  treated  of  the  Ifland  of  Milo,  where,  as  in  moft  of  the  Iflands  of 
the  JrcbipeUgOy  they  cannot  ripen  the  Garden-Figs  but  by  the  Punctures 
of  certain  Infects,  which  are  form'd  in  the  Wild-Figs,  and  which  they 
carry  on  purpofe  to  the  Trees  that  produce  the  former,  that  thole  Infects 
may  prick  the  Fruit  in  order  to  ripen  it. 

AFTERWARDS  he  explain'd  the  Caufe  of  the  fubterranean  Fires 
which  are  in  that  Ifland ;  and  he  afcribes  them  to  the  Filtration  of  the 
Sea-Water,  which  infinuating  through  the  Pores  of  the  Earth,  wets  the 
Iron-Mines  that  abound  in  it,  and  there  caufes  violent  Bubblings,  by  the 
Sea-Salt  that  mixes  with  them,  and  makes  them  take  fire.  This  Thought 
lias  been  found  true,  by  various  Experiments  made  by  the  moft  able 
Chymifts. 

WHILE  he  was  making  all  thefe  curious  Obfervations,  his  beloved 
Study  was  not  forgot.  The  Diftempers  of  Plants  and  Trees  had  a  due 
ihare  of  his  Inquiries.  He  afcribes  the  Caufe  of  them  either  to  the  too 
great  Abundance,  or  to  the  Want,  or  to  the  unequal  Diftribution  of  the 
nutritious  Juices ;  or  elfe  to  the  bad  Qualities  thofe  Juices  may  contract ; 
orlaftly,  to  divers  exterior  Accidents. 

WHO  would  imagine,  Sir,  that  a  Tree  could  be  fuffbcated?  This  at 
firft  feems  incredible ;  and  yet  M.  Tournefort  has  ihewn,  that  the  Over- 
abundance of  Nutriment  produces  this  Effect  in  certain  Trees,  becaufe  it 
clods  in  the  Veffels,  and  there  flops ;  fo  that  the  new  Juices  which  rife 

from 


The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort  xxiii 

from  the  Root,  finding  thofe  Paflages  obftructed,  get  by  little  and  little 
to  the  Channels  form'd  like  a  wreathed  Pillar,  and  which  are  as  it  were  the 
Lungs  of  Plants :  there  they  hinder  the  PafTage  of  the  Air;  and  the  Cir- 
culation being  thus  intercepted,  the  Tree  is  fuffocated  and  dies,  in  the 
fame  manner  as  an  Animal  that  is  ftifled. 

AS  to  the  feveral  exterior  Accidents  that  caufe  the  Diftempers  of 
Plants,  M.  Tournefort  fpecifies  Ibme  few  of  them. 

THE  fuft  is  Hail ;  it  bruiies  the  Fibres,  and  then  caufes  a  fort  of 
Obftructions ;  which  are  much  lefs  confiderable  when  the  Hail  is  mix'd 
with  Rain,  becaufe  the  Water  makes  thofe  Fibres  more  fupple,  which  in 
fome  meafure  deadens  the  Blow,  and  gives  room  to  the  Juices  to  flow 
with  greater  eafe. 

THE  lecond  is  Frofl ;  which  kills  them,  becaufe  the  watry  Particles 
of  the  Juices  being  condens'd  in  their  Pores,  fplits  and  tears  them,  as 
Water  frozen  breaks  the  VefTel  which  contains  it. 

THE  third  is  Mouldinefs ;  it  has  been  difcover'd  by  the  affiftance  of 
the  Microfcope,  that  this  is  nothing  but  the  birth  of  a  multitude  of  little 
Plants,  which  are  ne'er  the  lefs  real,  tho  they  efcape  our  fight.  They 
have  their  Leaves,  their  Flowers,  and  their  Fruits.  I  have  feen  of  them, 
Sir,  which  have  round  Flowers,  confuting  of  fix  Leaves ;  fome  with  Buds 
half  open ;  and  others,  which  after  having  been  fome  time  blown,  were 
faded  away.  They  are  little  Parafites,  that  fuck  away  part  of  the  Sub- 
fiance  allotted  by  the  Earth  for  the  Nutriment  of  the  Plant  to  which 
they  adhere.  Yet  the  greateft  mifchief  they  do  to  a  Plant,  is  not  their 
fubfifling  at  its  cofl :  But  as  their  Roots  are  very  flender,  they  infinuate 
into  the  Partitions  of  the  Pores,  and  enlarge  them ;  which  produces  a 
Rottennefs  or  Gangrene,  that  kills  the  Plant  if  not  timely  remedy'd. 

THE  other  Accidents  are  the  Punctures  of  various  Infects.  As  they 
depofite  their  Eggs  in  the  holes  which  they  pierce  in  the  Plants,  thofe  Eggs- 
caufe  Tumours  there;  thefe  little  Fractures  occafioning  the  fhedding  of 
the  nutritious  Juices,  which  run  into  the  neighbouring  Pores,  and  make 
them  fwell  in  proportion  as  they  dilate  their  Fibres.  What  alfb  hinders 
the  Juices  from  returning  their  ordinary  Courfe,  is  the  little  Obftructions 
that  the  Depofite  of  the  Eggs  of  thofe  Infects  caufes  in  the  Pores  of 
the  Plant.     This  is  the  Original  of  Gail-Nuts,  Sage-Apples,  Picea-Hives, 

and: 


xxiv  The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort. 

and  feveral  other  Tubercula,  that  grow  upon  the  Thiftle,    Eglantine 
and  alnioft  all  Turpentine-Trees ;  whole  Juices  being  very  vifcous,  re- 
fume  their  Courfe  with  greater  difficulty  than  thofe  of  other  Trees   when 
once  they  are  diverted. 

M.  TOV  RNEFORT  did  not  think  it  fufficient  to  have  found  out 
the  Dillempers  of  Plants,  and  penetrated  their  Caufes,  unlefs  he  alfodif- 
cover'd  the  Symptoms  by  which  they  may  be  known,  the  Method  of 
preventing  them,  and  the  Remedies  proper  to  cure  them :  all  this  he  has 
very  exactly  explain'd,  being  no  lefs  their  Phyfician  than  their  Anato- 
anift.  Thele  Inquiries  are  not  barely  curious,  they  may  be  reckou'd 
fome  part  of  his  Profelhon ;  fince  by  preventing  and  curing  the  Dillem- 
pers of  Plants,  he  puts  them  in  a  better  condition  of  preventing  and 
curing  the  Dillempers  of  Man.  I  believe,  Sir,  'twill  not  be  thought  ex- 
travagant to  fay  upon  this,  that  M.  Tournefort  feem'd  to  be  the  Genius  of 
Botany  and  of  Medicine ;  I  dare  not  go  Co  far,  as  to  call  him  that  of  Phy- 
ficks  and  of  Nature. 

N  O  leis  fond  of  the  Difcoveries  of  others,  than  capable  of  making 
them  himfelf ;  he  took  particular  pleafure  in  reading  to  the  Academy  of 
Sciences  an  Anatomical  DiiTertation  upon  the  Cailors  of  Canada.  There 
was  alio  in  it  an  account  of  all  the  Actions  of  thofe  amphibious  Crea- 
tures ;  their  way  of  living,  building,  and  defending  themfelves  againil 
Inundations ;  their  Cunning  and  their  Stratagems ;  and,  if  we  may  ufe 
fuch  Exprefllons,  their  Manners  and  Polity.  He  had  this  curious  Piece 
of  M.  Sarrazin,  Royal  Phyfician  in  Canada,  and  one  of  his  Correfpon- 
dents  for  Science  in  America. 

THIS,  Sir,  is  but  part  of  what  I  gather'd  from  M.  Tournefor^s  Con- 
version at  various  times.  'Twould  be  a  Work  of  too  great  length  to 
relate  all  the  other  things  which  he  dilcover'd  and  dilcours'd  of. 

HIS  Voyage  into  the  Levant,  which  will  make  two  Volume*  in 
Quarto,  now  printing  at  the  Louvre,  gives  a  thorow  Knowledge  oi  tl  e 
Man;  the  two  Volumes  contain  twenty  two  Letters,  wherein  he  lends 
M.  de  Pontcbartraw  an  exact  Account  of  all  the  Countries  through 
which  he  travel'd. 

I F  this  were  a  Poetical  Epiflle,  I  fhould  tell  you,  that  every  Letter  is 
as  it  were,  enamefd  with  an  agreeable  Variety  of  Subje&s.     It  contains 

j.  Remarks 


The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort.  xxv 

Remarks  upon  the  Situation  and  Geographical  Pofition  of  the  Towns, 
upon  their  Origin,  the  Nature  of  their  Climate,  and  their  different 
Names  j  Obfervations  upon  the  Manners,  Cuftoms,  Religion,  and  Dif- 
tempers  of  the  People  ;  and  a  Defcription  of  the  rare  Plants,  Animals, 
Filhes,  and  Birds  which  he  found,  as  well  as  of  the  Antiquities  he  faw. 

SO  many  painful  Travels,  no  lefs  glorious  to  M.  Tournefort  than  ad- 
vantageous to  the  Commonwealth  of  Learning,  gain'd  him  at  his  Return 
particular  Marks  of  Diftinction  from  the  King.  That  Prince  enter'd  with 
fo  much  Goodnefs  into  the  Fatigues  and  Dangers  M.  Tournefort  had  un- 
dergone, that  he  bemoan'd  him,  and  even  condelcended  to  let  him  know 
it  by  word  of  mouth. 

SOME  little  time  afterwards,  his Majefly  gave  him  the  Chair  of  Pro- 
felTor  in  Phyfick  at  the  College-Royal.     I  mould  not  affect,  "Sir,  to  fpeak 
of  the  advantageous  Polls  wherewith  M.  Tournefort  was  intruded,  if  his 
fole  Merit  had  not  rais'd  him  to  them.     Nay,  I  fhould  bury  in  filence  the 
Offer  that  was  made  to  him  of  the  Place  of  Firit  Phyfician  to  the  King 
of  Spain,  if  his  Refufal  of  it  did  not  fhew  what  a  Love  he  had  for  his 
Country,  and  how  little  he  was  ambitious.     Wholly  poffefs'd  with  a  De- 
fire  of  improving   the  different  Sciences  he  cultivated,  he  thought  of 
nothing  but  how  he  might  make  himfelf  yet  more  worthy  of  the  Favours 
which  the  King  had  been  pleas'd  to  heap  upon  him.     He  believed  it 
would  be  to  throw-  up  bis  Duty  with  relation  to  his  Prince,  to  be  want- 
ing to  his  own  Family,  and  to  abandon  his  Friends,  if  he  fhould  accept 
of  this  Place,  tho  ever  fo  honourable.     And  indeed 'twould  have  been 
robbing  his  Country  of  an  Honour  that  was  her  Right,  had  he  enrich'd 
any  other  Climate  with  his  Refearches  and  Dilcoveries. 

A  S  he  had  always  labour'd  to  increafe  them,  they  could  not  but  pro- 
duce him  the  Advantages  which  they  richly  deferv'd.  M.  the  Abbot  Big- 
non  took  him  for  his  Phyfician,  and  fhew'd  by  this  Choice  the  value  he 
fet  upon  his  Merit  and  Capacity  :  A  Preference  like  this,  exceeds  an  Elo- 
gium.  It  is.  certain,  he  could  not  trull  his  Health  to  the  hands'  of  any 
Man  that  better  knew  the  Confequence  of  it,  or  was  more  capable  of 
preferving  it.  M.  Tournefort  gave  very  eiTential  Proofs  of  what  I  fay  , 
and  they  flill  increaie  our  Grief  for  lofing  him,  fince  to  him  we  owe  the 
Prcfervation  of  that  illuflrious  Magiftrate,  who  may  be  look'd  upon  as 
Vol.  I.  c  the 


y 


xxvi  The  L  i  f  e  of  M.  Tournefort. 

the  protecting  Genius  of  two  famous  Academics,  which  he  every  day 
renders  more  arid  more  flourilhing. 

A  VAST  many  Peribns  of  Diftinction,  both  of  the  Court  and  City 
had  the  like  Confidence  in  M.Tournefort.  His  conftant  Vifitation  of  the 
Sick,  his  Attention  to  the  Accounts  of  their  Illnefs,  and  his  Skill  in 
judging  by  Symptoms,  gave  him  a  wonderful  Juftnefs  and  Exactnefs  in 
what  he  prefcribed  to  them.  He  charm'd  away  the  Melancholy  and 
Pain  of  his  Patients,  by  a  Converfation  extremely  agreeable,  and  always 
adapted  to  the  Condition  wherein  he  found  them.  By  this  means  he 
reftored  their  Minds  to  a  State  of  Tranquillity,  and  feem'd  to  Impend 
their  Ailment.  So  that  his  Converfation  may  be  faid  to  be  his  firft  Me- 
dicine ;  it  might  almoft  vie  with  thofe  which  Reading  and  Experience 
had  taught  him :  and  producing  upon  the  Mind  what  his  Prefcriptions 
did  upon  the  Body,  he  may  be  accounted  the  Phyfician  of  both. 

AN  unexpected  Accident  was  the  caufe  of  his  Death.  As  he 
Was  going  to  the  Academy  of  Sciences,  he  had  his  Breaft  violently 
fqueez'd  by  the  Axle-tree  of  a  Cart  which  he  could  not  avoid ;  and  if 
one  of  his  Friends  had  not  immediately  run  to  his  afllftance,  that  fatal 
Moment  had  been  the  laft  of  his  Life.  This  gave  him  a  fpitting  of 
Blood,  which  he  flighted;  His  too  great  Exactnefs  in  acquitting  him- 
felf  of  all  his  Duties,  made  him  continue,  notwithflanding  this  ill  State 
of  his  Health,  to  read  his  Botanick  LefTons  at  the  Garden  of  Simples,  his 
LefTons  of  Phyfick  at  the  College-Royal,  and  to  labour  at  the  Account 
of  his  Voyage. 

S  O  that  his  own  Skill  and  Experience  became  equally  ufelefs  to  him. 
He  hearkenM  more  to  his  own  Zeal  than  to  the  Advice  of  his  Friends ; 
and  in  order  to  perform  what  he  reckon'd  the  Duties  of  the  Polls  he 
held,  neglected  what  he  ow'd  to  himfelf :  fb  that  he  may  be  truly  call'd 
the  Decim  of  the  Republick  of  Letters,  fince  he  devoted  himfelf  to 
death  for  her  Service. 

HIS  Health  was  too  far  gone  to  be  recover'd.  After  having  lan- 
guiflfd  fome  months,  he  died  of  a  Dropfy  in  his  Breaft,  the  28th  of  De- 
cember 1708,  aged  Fifty  Three  Years,  with  fmcere  Piety,  and  profound 
Sentiments  of  Humility.  He  was  too  great  a  Philosopher,  and  too  well 
acquainted  with  the  Secrets  of  Nature,  not  to  acknowledge  the  Author 

thereof ; 


The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort.  xxvii 

thereof;  and  too  deeply  penetrated  with  the  Greatnefs  of  Religion,  not 
to  adore  both  its  Obje<ft  and  Principle. 

BY  his  laft  Will  and  Teftament  he  befought  the  King  to  do  him  the  ho- 
nour to  accept  of  his  Cabinet.  It  was  worthy  of  being  prefented  to  him  ; 
finceby  containing  the  Proofs  of  fo  many  Syftems,  it  had  fully  fatisfy'd  the 
Curiofity  of  the  Learned  in  divers  Nations,  and  of  feveral  foreign  Princes, 
and  drawn  the  principal  Perfons  of  the  Court  to  come  and  admire  it. 
His  Majefty  was  pleas'd  to  receive  this  Prefent,  and  gratify'd  M.  Tourne- 
fort's  Nephew  with  a  Penfion  of  a  thoufand  Livres,  to  fherv  him  (thefe 
are  the  very  Words  of  the  Warrant)  his  Majejlfs  Satisfaction  in  the  Services 
of  bis  Vncle,  and  even  to  make  him  fome  fort  of  Recommence  for  the  Legacy 
he  had  bequeathed  him. 

M.  TOV  RNEFO  RT  believing  he  could  give  the  compleat  Col- 
lection he  had  made  of  Botanical  Books  to  no  Man  that  was  better  ac- 
quainted with  their  Value,  than  M.  the  Abbot  Bignon ;  he  left  them  to 
him,  that  they  might  have  a  place  in  that  choice  and  numerous  Library 
which  his  Knowledge  in  all  the  Sciences  is  every  day  increafing  with 
new  Riches. 

ASM.  Tournefort  had  always  been  perfuaded  that  Celibacy  was  the 
Condition  moil:  irritable  to  a  Man  of  Learning,  he  kept  it  all  his  life, 
for  fear  the  Cares  of  a  Family  fliould  rob  him  of  fome  of  thofe  Moments 
which  he  devoted  wholly  to  Study  ;  well  knowing  that  the  Sciences  are 
jealous,  and  do  not  love  to  have  Partners  in  their  Votaries  Hearts. 

THE  Fruit  of  his  Travels  and  Obfervations  were  found  in  the  Manu- 
fcripts  he  left  behind  him  :  one  is  intitled,  Botanical  Topography,  or  a  Ca- 
talogue of  the  Plants  he  had  obferv'd  in  divers  places,  from  the  Year 
1676,  to  1690,  in  'Provence,  Languedoc,  the  Alps,  the  Pyrenees,  in  Spain, 
and  in  Portugal.  He  fets  down  precifely  in  what  Kingdom,  what  Pro- 
vince, and  near  what  Town  each  Plant  grows.  So  that  to  lee  how  he 
cantons  them  out  in  each  Country,  one  would  be  apt  to  fay,  that  they 
are  lb  many  Botanical  Conquefts,  the  Glory  of  which  is  wholly  owing 
to  his  Inquiries. 

H  E  had  alfo  compofed  another  Work,  which  he  intended  to  publifh 
with  the  Title  of  Phntaram  Adverfar'u  :    it  is  a  univerfal   and  critical 

c  2  Hiftory 


xxviii    -  The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort. 

Hiftory  of  Plants,  wherein  he  ranges  them  alphabetically,  collects  all 
that  the  moil  skilful  Botanifts  have  faid  of  each,  relates  the  difference  of 
their  Opinions,  and  adds  his  own,  which  may  ferve  as  a  Decifion  to 
theirs. 

HIS  Botanical  Lectures  at  the  Royal  Garden  will  make  a  Volume  no 
lefs  curious.  A  Learned  Englfiman,  who  calls  himfelf  Simon  Wbartony 
has  publifh'd  part  of  them  with  the  Title  of  Scbola  Botanica,  five  Cata- 
logus  Plant  arum^  &c.  I  have  feen  one  of  thofe  Books,  wherein  M.  Tour- 
nefort has  made  feveral  Corrections  and  Additions  in  his  own  Hand- 
writing, and  in  one  place  writes  that  this  Englifhrnan's  true  Name  was 
William  Sberard.  My  Father  has  put  it  into  his  Library,  with  the  reft  of 
M.  Toarnefort's  Works,  of  which  he  made  him  a  Prefent. 

IN  turning  over  his  Manufcripts,  I  found,  befides  thofe  already  fpoken 
of,  a  Volume  of  Obfervations  upon  the  Analyfis  of  feveral  Plants,  fpe- 
cifying  their  Natures  and  Qualities,  which  he  learnt  by  his  Chymical 
Experiments. 

I  F  O  R  G  O  T  to  mention,  that  he  had  made  it  his  method  to  divide 
his  Botanical  Coarfe  into  one  and  thirty  Demonftrations.  He  defcribed 
about  a  hundred  Plants  in  the  Courfe  of  each.  About  feven  and  twenty 
of  them  were  for  Plants,  and  four  for  Trees,  and  for  marine  and  maritime 
Plants.  In  the  fame  Idea  he  divided  his  Hiflory  of  the  Plants  that  grow 
about  Paris  into  fix  Herborizations.  And  as  he  therein  writes  of  Plants, 
which  in  company  with  his  Difciples  he  had  found  and  obferv'd  in  fix 
different  Days,  might  not  that  Book  be  call'd  the  Botanical  Hexameron  ? 

THESE  Pieces,  which  are  Works  of  immenfe  Labour,  give  the 
Commonwealth  of  Learning  an  exact  account  of  every  Moment  of 
M.  Tournefort's  Life ;  and  I  believe  I  may  add,  that  the  Sciences  he  cul- 
tivated cannot  upbraid  him  with  the  leafl  Fault  of  Omiflion  in  any  thing 
that  concern'd  them. 

,  DOES  not  what  I  have  faid  of  his  Works,  require,  Sir,  that  I 
fhould  add  fomething  touching  his  Perfon  ?  The  Quality  of  Scholar, 
which  he  carry'd  fo  far,  was  certainly  the  leafl  he  pofTefs'd.  It  was 
impoflible  to  know  him  without  efleeming  him.  Jealoufy  itfelf,  in  thofe 
that  were  fufceptible  of  it,  did  him  honour  \  fince  it  fuppofes  an  Efteem 

%  which 


The  L  i  f  e  'of  M.  Tournefort.  xxix 

which  a  Man  feels  in  fpite  of  himfelf.  So  that  his  Envycrs  (without 
defign)  have  only  hclp'd  to  coniecrate  his  Merit,  by  declaring  that  he 
was  worthy  to  be  envy'd. 

T  O  the  Knowledge  of  the  hatin  and  Greek,  he  join'd  that  of  the 
Spanifi  and  Julian.  He  was  as  laborious,  as  his  Genius  was  vaft.  La- 
Vifli  of  the  Treafures  of  his  Capacity,  he  beftow'd  them  liberally,  and 
(which  is  moft  rarely  to  be  met  with)  free  from  all  Oftentation.  Loving 
to  adorn  himfelf  inwardly,  better  than  to  mine  externally ;  he  ftudy'd 
rather  to  deferve  Applaufe,  than  to  obtain  it.  The  things  he  faid,  great 
in  themfelves,  and  naturally  beautiful,  had  no  occafion  for  foreign  Or- 
naments. His  Converfation  had  thofe  genuine  Charms,  which  pleafe 
before  one  takes  notice  of  their  doing  fo  :  one  perceiv'd  their  Effect 
only  upon  Reflection ;  and  the  delight  one  took  in  hearing  him,  was- 
juftify'd  by  the  Inftrudtion  arifing  from  it. 

A  S  he  had  cultivated  his  excellent  Talents  by  prodigious  Study,  there 
was  in  him  an  agreeable  Mixture  of  Nature  and  of  Art,  which  could  not 
be  diftinguilh'd,  but  which  never  fail'd  to  pleafe. 

WAS  he  to  difcourfe  of  Plants?  As  dry  as  that  Subject  appears  in 
itfelf,  he  lent  it  a  thoufand  Ornaments,  which  one  would  not  imagine 
it  to  be  capable  of;  he  in  a  manner  had  the  art  of  metamorphofing  it : 
And  we  may  juftly  fay  of  him,  in  the  words  of  our  modern  Horace,  as 
well  in  a  proper  as  figurative  Senie,  that  from  Bryars  and  Thiflles  he 
gather'd  Rofes  and  Pinks. 

BUT  whatever  Subject  he  handled,  Nature  feem'd  to  have  given  him 
a  particular  Title  to  a  good  Reception  of  whatever  he  faid.  She  inter- 
fpers'd  it  with  a  certain  Agreeablenefs,  which  fhe  alone  can  beftow,  and 
which  fhe  never  grants  but  to  her  Favourites.  In  a  word,  fire  bad 
blefs'd  him  with  it  in  fuch  abundance,  that  it  quite  effaced  the  feeming. 
Negligence  with  which  he  deliver'd  himfelf;  for  he  was  as  fimple  in  his 
way  of  Speaking,  as  he  was  fublime  in  Thinking  and  Writing. 

N  O  leis  profound  than  juft  in  his  Reafonings,  a  true  Philofbpher,  a 
good  Geometrician,  an  attentive  Anatomift,  an  exact  Chymift,  a  pene- 
trating Naturalift ;  in  every  thing  he  undertook,  the  Excellence  of  his 
Tafte  would  never  allow  him  to  reft  beneath  Perfection.     As  great  as  is 

his 


xxx  The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort. 

his  \Reputation,  it  is  ftill  very  much  below  the  Truth.     He  was  a  Man 
iu  his  kind  more  than  Rare ;  he  was  a  None-fuch. 

AFTER  having  faid  fo  much  of  his  Mind,  I  mould  never  forgive 
my  felf,  Sir,  if  I  were  filent  concerning  his  Heart.  The  Qualities  of  the 
one  exceeded  in  him  the  Talents  of  the  other.  He  was  a  good  Kink 
man,  a  faithful  Friend,  a  zealous  Citizen ;  incapable  of  the  leaf!  Jealoufy 
of  Great  Men  •  iilPd  with  a  prudent  Emulation,  that  ftirr'd  him  up  to 
imitate  them  ;  a  fond  Lover  of  them  ;  always  juft  and  equitable  ;  a  Fol- 
lower of  Truth,  as  much  through  Inclination  as  Duty,  as  well  in  his 
Words  as  in  his  Writings,  wherein  his  Exactnefs  exceeded  even  to  Scrupu- 
loufnefs;  circumfpedt,  more  than  can  be  exprefs'd,  in  the  Prefcription 
and  Compofition  of  his  Medicines,  which  he  made  up  himfelf,  for  the 
greater  fafety ;  difinterefted,  generous,  born  left  for  himfelf  than  for  his 
Friends,  whom  he  obliged  without  ihew  of  fo  doing,  endeavouring  to 
hide  it,  if  pofiible,  even  from  himfelf.  Accordingly,  he  died  beloved 
and  relpecied  of  the  Learned  of  all  Nations ;  efteem'd  by  the  Great  and 
Rich,  bewail'd  by  the  Poor,  having  always  been  obliging  to  the  one 
charitable  with  profufion  to  the  others ;  ufeful  to  all. 

THE  Praifes  he  has  received  from  a  vaft  many  People  whole  Merit  is 
equal  to  their  Quality,  and  the  Grief  he  has  coft  them,  are  the  moll  elo- 
quent Panegyricks :  After  which,  it  is  impoilible  to  add  any  thing  to 
that  Happinefs  which  may  be  enjoy'd  in  this  World  by  a  Man  that  no 
longer  exifts  in  it. 

H  E  deferv'd  them  fb  much  the  more,  becaufe  %;  never  courted  them. 
A  true  Modefty  crown'd  all  his  other  Virtues.  To  conclude,  he  was 
Matter  of  fo  many  excellent  Qualities,  there  was  no  knowing  him 
thorowly.  So  that,  if  .we  may  venture  to  praife  him  at  the  expence 
of  the  Sciences  which  ware  lb  dear  to  him,  we  may  lay,  He  was  a 
Man  that  was  to  be  ftudy'd  with  as  much  care,  as  he  himfelf  ftudy'd 
Nature. 

I  WISH,  Sir,  this  Account  may  anfwer  your  Expectation,  and  the 
Reverence  I  pay  to  the  Memory  of  M.  Tonrmfort.  I  ihall  think  niy- 
felf  but  too  happy,  if  in  fome  of  thofe  precious  Moments  which  you 

*  fet 


The  Life  of  M.  Tournefort. 

fet  apart  for  Reading,  I  can  in  fome  Imall  meafure  alleviate  thofe 
Pains  and  Labours,  which  the  Good  of  the  State  and  his  Majefly's 
Service  require  from  you.    I  have  the  Honour  to  be  with  Reipeft, 


XXXI 


SIRt 

Tour  molt   Humble  and 

Moji  Obedient  Servant* 

Lauthieiu 


r  h  e 


(  xxxii  ) 


::. 


i- 


wm'wwwwwmwwmwwm'ww^wT^^wwwwwm^wmw^ 


THE 

E  LO  G  I  U  M 

O  F 

M.  TOURNEFORT-. 

By  M.Fontenelle,  Perpetual  Secretary  of 
the  Royal  Academy  of  Sciences,  and  one  of 
the  Forty  of  the  French  Academy. 


gOSEPH  PITTON  DE  TOVRNEFORT  was  born  at 

dix  in  Provence,  the  fifth  of  June  1656.     His  Father,  Peter 

Iglll  Pitton  Efq;   was  Lord  of  Tournefort  :    his  Mother,  Aimare  de 

Fagoue,  was  a  Gentleman's  Daughter  of  Paris. 
H  E  went  to  School  to  the  Jefuits  of  Aix ;  but  tho  they  put  him  fblely 
upon  the  Study  of  Latin,  as  they  did  all  the  other  Scholars,  yet  the 
moment  he  call  his  eye  on  the  Vegetable  Part  of  the  Creation,  he  felt 
himfelf  a  Botanift :  He  was  for  knowing  the  names  of  the  leveral  Plants, 
and  criticizing  on  their  Differences  ;  and  fometimes  would  mils  his  School, 
to  go  a  fimpling  in  the  Fields,  and  to  ftudy  Nature  inftead  of  the  Lan- 
guage of  the  antient  Romans.  Mod  of  thofe  who  have  excell'd  in  any 
one  thing,  have  done  it  without  a  Mafter ;  this  was  his  Cafe  :  in  a  very 

fhort 


An  Elogium  on  M.  Tournefort.  xxxiii 

fliort  fpace  of  time  he  acquir'd  of  himfclf  the  Knowledge  of  all   the 
Plants  about  the  City  of  Jix. 

WHEN  they  enter'd  him  in  Philofophy,  he  took  but  little  liking  to 
that  which  they  taught  him :  inftead  of  Nature,  which  he  fo  much  de- 
lighted to  obferve,  he  faw  nothing  but  loofe  abftracled  Ideas,  that  lie  by 
the  fide  of  things,  as  'twere,  but  never  touch  'em.     In  his  Father's  Clo- 
fet  he  lit  of  the  Philofophy  of  Defcartes,  and  prelently  found  it  to  be 
what  he  wanted,  tho  but  in  fhiall  efteem  at  that  time  in  Provence.     He 
never  could  get  to  read  it  but  by  Health ;  his  Father  debarring  him  from 
fo  ufcful  a  Study,  made  him  the  more  eager  on't,  and  thus  unwittingly 
gave  him  an  excellent  Education.     Deligning  him  for  the  Church,  he 
made  him  ftudy  Theology,  nay,  put  him  into  a  Seminary.     But  natural 
Deftination  prevail'd.     Nothing  could  hinder  him  from  profecuting  his 
favourite  Study,  either  in  the  Gardens  of  Aix>  or  in  the  adjacent  Fields, 
or  among  the  Rocks  and  Cliffs. 

H  E  had  very  near  as  great  a  Paflion  for  Anatomy  and  Chymiftry,  as 
for  Botany.  In  fliort,  Natural  Philofophy  purfu'd  her  Claim  to  him  lb 
vigoroufly,  that  flie  loon  ejected  Theology,  which  had  unjuftly  gain'd 
pofleffion  of  him.  He  was  encouraged  by  the  example  of  an  Uncle  of 
his,  a  very  able  Phyfician,  and  in  great  vogue :  his  Father's  death  too, 
which  happen'd  in  1677,  left  him  intirely  free  to  follow  his  own  Incli- 
nation. And  accordingly  the  very  next  Year  he  perambulated  the  Moun- 
tains oiD-xufoiny  and  Savoy,  from  whence  he  brought  a  great  many  choice 
Plants,  which  began  his  Herbal. 

BOTANY  is  not  a  fedentary  idle  Science,  that  can  be  attain'd  at 
one's  eafe  by  the  Fire-fide,  like  Geometry,  Hiftory,  &c.  A  Botanill 
muftlcour  the  Mountains  and  Forelts,  climb  lieep  Rocks  and  PreciDices, 
venture  down  AbylTes.  The  only  Books  that  can  thorowly  inftrudt  m 
this  matter,  are  fcatter'd  up  and  down  the  whole  Face  of  the  Earth,  and 
not  to  be  gather'd  up  without  fatigue  and  peril.  Hence  comes  it  that  lb 
few  excel  in  this  Science  :  a  degree  of  Paflion  fufEcient  to  make  a  Vir- 
tuofo  of  another  kind,  is  not  fuificient  for  making  a  great  Botanill: ;  be- 
fides,  there  is  required  a  Stock  of  Health  that  can  follow  it,  a  Strength 
!bf  Body  to  anfwer  it.  M.  fotirhefor'tH'  Conftitution  was  lively,  laborious, 
athletick ;  an  exhauftlefs  Fund  of  unaffe&ed  Gayety  fupporred  him  in 
,r    VoI-J  d  his 


xxxiv  An  Elogium  on  M.  Tournefort. 

his  Travels,  and  both  in  Body  and  Mind  he  was  cut  out  for  a  Bo- 
tanift. 

IN  1679,  he  began  his  Journey  to  Montpeltier,  where  he  greatly  im- 
prov'd  himielf  in  Anatomy  and  Medicine.  Tho  the  Phyfick-Garden 
which  Henry  IV.  founded  in  this  City,  abounds  with  great  Variety  of 
Plants,  it  fell  fhort  of M.  Tournefort' 's  Expectation  :  he  went  about  ga- 
thering Phyflcal  Herbs  for  above  ten  Leagues  round  Mont  pettier,  and 
brought  with  him  a  noble  Crop  of  Vegetables  unknown  to  the  very 
Natives  of  the  Place.  But  even  thefe  Walks  being  too  confined  to  fatisfy 
his  Curiofity,  he  fetout  for  Barcelona  in  April  168 1  ;  and  arriving  in  the 
Mountains  of  Catalonia,  he  was  referred  to  and  follow'd  by  the  Phyfi- 
cians  of  the  Country  and  young  Students  in  Medicine,  jufl:  like  the  an- 
tient  Gymnofophifts,  who  led  their  Difciples  into  the  Defarts,  where  they 
kept  their  Schools. 

THE  high  Mountains  of  the  Pyrenees  were  too  near,  not  to  tempt 
him  to  pay  them  a  Vifit.  Yet  he  well  knew,  that  all  the  Subfiftence  he 
mould  meet  with  in  thole  vail:  Solitudes  would  be  mere  Hermit's  Fare ; 
and  the  wretched  Inhabitants,  from  whom  he  was  to  have  even  that, 
were  fewer  in  number  than  the  Robbers  that  haunt  thofe  places.  Many 
a  time  was  he  flript  by  the  Spanifb  Miquelets;  which  at  laflr  put  him 
upon  a  Contrivance  how  to  conceal  a  little  Mony  on  iuch  occafions  :  he 
inclos'd  Ibme  Ryals  in  a  Loaf  of  Bread  fb  black  and  hard,  that  as  fharp- 
fighted  and  ravenous  as  the  Rogues  were,  they  never  took  it  from  him, 
nor  fulpedted  the  Deceit.  His  predominant  Inclination  made  him  fur- 
mount  every  thing ;  thofe  frightful  and  almoft  inaccefTible  Rocks  which 
lurrounded  him  on  every  fide,  were  in  his  eye  a  magnificent  Library, 
wherein  he  had  the  pleafure  to  find  whatever  his  Curiofity  required,  and 
where  he  pafs'd  his  time  mod  delicioufly. 

TOWARD  the  Clofe  of  the  Year  1681,  he  return'd  to  Montpeltier, 
and  from  thence  went  home  to  Aix ;  where  he  diftributed  into  his  Her- 
bal all  the  Plants  he  had  pick'd  up  in  Provence,  Languedoc,  Dauphiny 
Catalonia,  the  Alps  and  the  Pyrenees.  Every  body  can't  conceive  that 
the  pleafure  of  feeing  fuch  numbers  of  'em,  all  intire,  in  perfect  good 
condition,  orderly  difoos'd  in  large  Books  of  white  Paper,  was  to  him  a 
fufficient  Recompence  for  whatever  they  had  coft  him. 

M. 


An  Elogium  on  M.  Tournefort.  xxxv 

M.  VAGON,  the  Queen's  chief  Phyfician,  was  always  very  ftudious 
of  Plants,  as  one  of  the  mod  curious  Parts  of  Natural  Philofophy,  and 
the  mod  effential  of  Medicine.  M.  Tournefort* s  Name  reach'd  him  from 
fo  many  different  places,  and  (till  with  fo  much  uniformity,  that  he  was 
defirous  to  get  him  to  Paris,  the  general  Rendevouz  of  almoft  all  the 
bright  Spirits  of  the  Kingdom.  To  this  end,  he  fpoke  to  Madam  VeneUe, 
Sub-Governefs  to  the  Dauphin's  Children,  who  was  well  acquainted  with 
M.  Toumeforfs  Family.  She  wrote  to  him  to  come  to  Pari*,  and  in  1685 
prefented  him  to  M.  Fagon,  who  that  very  Year  procured  him  the  Place 
of  Botanick  ProfelTor  in  the  Royal  Garden  of  Plants,  eftablifh'd  by 
Lewis  XIII.  for  the  Inftrudtion  of  young  Students  in  Medicine. 

THIS  Employ  did  not  prevent  his  going  feveral  Voyages.  IviAnda- 
lufta,  a  Country  abounding  with  Palm-Trees,  he  endeavour'd  to  find  out 
the  truth  of  what  has  been  fo  long  talk'd  of,  concerning  the  Amours  of 
the  Male  and  Female  Palm,  but  could  difcover  nothing  certain ;  fo  that 
thole  antient  Amours,  if  any  fuch  there  be,  continue  ftill  a  Myftery. 
In  Holland  and  England  he  gain'd  the  Efteem  of  many  famous  Botanifts  : 
infomuch  that  M.  Herman,  the  celebrated  ProfefTor  of  Botany  at  Leyden, 
would  fain  have  refign'd  his  Place  to  him.  He  wrote  to  M.  Tournefort, 
in  the  beginning  of  the  lafl  War,  very  preffingly  to  accept  of  it :  his 
Love  to  the  Science  he  profefs'd,  made  him  chufe  for  a  SuccefTbr,  one  that 
was  not  only  a  Foreigner,  but  of  a  Nation  then  in  enmity  with  his  own. 
He  promis'd  M.  Tournefort  a  Penfion  of  4000  Livres  from  the  States- 
General,  with  hopes  of  an  Augmentation  when  he  was  better  known. 
Tho  the  Stipend  belonging  to  the  Place  he  was  then  in,  was  but  a  very 
flender  one,  yet  out  of  love  to  his  Country  he  refufed  fo  advantageous  a 
Proffer.  He  added  to  this  another  Reafon,  among  Friends,  namely,  That 
he  thought  the  Sciences  were  at  leaft  in  as  high  a  degree  of  Perfection  in 
Trance,  as  in  any  other  Country.  That's  not  a  Virtuofo's  true  Country, 
where  the  Sciences  don't  flourifh :  His  was  not  ungrateful.  The  Aca- 
demy of  Sciences  being  in  1691  intruded  to  the  Care  of  the  Abbot  Big- 
non ;  one  of  the  firft  Inftances  he  gave  of  his  Authority,  was  to  afTociate 
into  this  Company  Meflieurs  Tournefort  and  Homberg,  tho  he  knew  nei- 
ther of  them  but  by  Fame. 

d  2  IN 


xxxvi  An  Elogium  on  M.  Tournefort. 

IN  1694^  appear'd  M.  Tourneforfs  firft  Work,  intided,  The  Elements  of 
Botanyy  printed  at  the  Louvre  in  three  Volumes.     The  Defign  of  it  is  to 
bring  into  order  that  prodigious  number  of  Plants  fo  confufedly  fcatter'd 
all  oyer  the  Earth,  and  even  beneath  the  Waters  of  the  Sea ;  and  to  diftri- 
bute  them  into  Genera  and  Species,  ib  as  to. make  the  Knowledge  of 
'em  cafy,  and  fpare  the  Memory  from  being  overloaded  with  infinite  num- 
bers of  Names.     This  Order,  fo  necefTary,,  is  no  way  eftablifh'd  by  Na- 
ture's felf,  who  has  prefer'd  a  noble  Confufion  to  the  Conveniency  of  the 
Philofophers.     And  'tis  their  bufinefs,  almoft  in  her  defpight,  to  difpofe 
the  Vegetable  World  into  Method,  and  form  a  Syftem  of  Plants.     As 
this  mull:  needs  be  a  Work  of  the  Brain,  'tis  eafily  forefeen  there  will 
be  Contrariety  of  Opinions,  nay,  that  fome  will  be  for  no  Syftem  at  all. 
That  which  has  been  pitch'd  upon  by  M.  Tournefort,  after  a  long  and 
learned  Difcuffion,    confifts  in  regulating  the  Genus  of  Plants  by  their 
Flower  and  Fruit  put  together ;  that  is,  all  Plants  which  are  refembling  in 
thole  two  particulars,  mall  be  of  the  lame  Genus :  after  which,  the  Diffe- 
rences, whether  of  the  Root,  the  Stalk,  or  Leaves,  mall  conftitute  their 
different  Species.     Nay,  M.  Tournefort  went  further  j  over  and  above  the 
Genera,  he  has  placed  Clafles  to  be  regulated  by  the  Flowers  only;  and 
he  was  the  firft  that  had  this  Thought,  which  is  of  far  greater  ufe  in 
Botany  than  can  prefently  be  imagin'd  :  for  as  yet  there  are  found  but 
fourteen  different  Figures  of  Flowers,  which  muft  be  imprinted  in  the 
Memory.    Thus,  for  example,  fuppofing  you  have  before  ye  a  Plant  in 
Flower,  whofe  Name  you  are  ignorant  of,  you  prefently  lee  to  what  Clafs 
it  belongs  in  the  foregoing  Book  of  the  Elements  of  Botany  :  fome  days 
after  the  Flower,  appears  the  Fruit,  which  determines  the  Genus  in  the 
fame  Book,  as  the  other  parts  give  the  Species  ;  fo  that  in  a  moment  is 
found  both  what  Name  M.  Tournefort  gives  it  with  reipec~t  to  his  own 
Syftem,  and  what  Names  have  been  given  it  by  other  eminent  Botanifts, 
either  with  reipecl:  to  their  particular  Syftems,  or  without  any  Syftem  at 
all.     This  puts  a  Man  in  a  way  to  ftudy  fuch  or  fuch  a  Plant  in  the  Au- 
thors that  have  treated  of  ir,  without  danger  of  afcribing  to  one  Plant 
what  they  may  have  faid  of  another,  or  of  afcribing  to  another  what 
they  may  have  faid  of  It.     A  prodigious  Eaie  this  Method  muft  be  to 
the  Memory ;  for  by  thus  retaining  only  14  Figures  of  Flowers,  you  de- 

fcend 


An  Elogium  on  M.  Tournefort.  xxxvii 

fcend  to  67$  Genera,  which  comprehend  8846  Species  of  Plants,  ei- 
ther of  Land  or  Sea  ;  which  were  all  that  were  known  at  the  time  this 
Book  was  publifh'd.  What  would  a  Man  do,  were  he  obliged  to  know  in 
the  firft  inftance  all  thefe  8846  Species,  and  that  too  by  the  different 
Names  the  Botanifts  have  been  pleas'd  to  impofe  on  'em  ?  What  I  have 
been  here  faying,  would  require  fbme  Reftrictions  or  Explications ;  but 
this  has  been  already  done  in  the  Hiflory  of  1700,  where  M.  Tournefort^ 
Syftem  has  been  more'  copioufly  treated  of. 

IT  feem'd  to  be  very  much  approved  of  by  the  Majority  of  the  Phy- 
ficiaus.  He  was  indeed  attack'd  in  fbme  things  by  M.  Ray,  a  celebrated 
Englijb  Botanift  and  Natural  Philofbpher  :  M.  Tournefort  publifh'd  an  An- 
f\verini697,  being  a  Lat in  DifTertation  addrefs'd  to  M.  Sherard,  another 
ingenious  Englifbman.  The  Difpute  was  carry'd  on  without  the  lead  Gall, 
nay,  with  extreme  Pohtenefs  and  Good-breeding  on  both  fides,  which  is 
a  thing  to  be  obferv'd.  Perhaps  you'll  fay,  the  Subject  was  fcarce  worth 
while  to  be  warm  for  ;  the  queftion  being  only,  whether  the  Flowers  and 
Fruits  were  fufficicnt  to  defignate  the  Genera,  whether  fuch  a  certain 
Plant  was  of  this  or  that  Genus.  'Tis  no  fuch  uncommon  thing,  how- 
ever, for  Men,  efpecially  the  Learned,  to  fly  into  a  Pafllon  upon  light 
occafions.  M.  Tournefort,  in  a  fubfequent  Work,  bellows  great  Praifes  on 
M.  Ray,  and  even  on  his  Syftem  of  Plants. 

H  E  took  his  Degree  of  Do&or  of  Phyfick  of  the  Faculty  of  Paris, 
and  in  1698  publifh'd  a  Book,  under  the  Title  of,  A  Hiflory  of  fuch  Plants 
as  grow  about  Paris,  with  their  Vfe  in  Medicine. 

YOU  may  well  think,  he  that  had  been  in  fearch  of  Plants  as  far 
as  the  Jlps  and  Pyrenees,  beftow'd  no  fmall  pains  on  thofe  in  the  Neigh- 
bourhood of  Paris,  after  he  was  fettled  there.  Botany  would  be  but  a  mere 
Curiofity,  did  it  not  refer  to  Medicine :  the  Botany  too  of  a  Man's  own 
Country  fhould  be  chiefly  ftudy'd  ;  not  only  becaufe  Nature  has  taken 
care  to  furnifh  each  Country  with  fuch  Plants  as  are  proper  in  the  Mala- 
dies of  the  refpective  Inhabitants,  but  becaufe  they  are  more  readily 
come  at,  and  are  full  as  prevalent  as  thofe  that  come  from  abroad, 
which  are  ne'er  the  better  for  being  far  fetch'd.  In  this  Hiftory  of 
Plants  growing  about  Paris,  M.  Tournefort  mufters  up  all  their  different 
Names,  and  then  gives  their  Defcriptions,  their  chymical  Analyfes  made 

*  by 


xxxviii        A'Elogium  on  M.  Tournefort. 

by  the  Academy,  and  their  beft  approv'd  Virtues.  This  Book  alone  is 
fufrkient  to  wipe  away  the  Alperfion  caft  fbmetimes  on  Phyficians,  as  if 
they  did  not  care  for  Medicaments  drawn  from  Simples,  became  they  are 
too  eafy,  and  have  too  quick,  an  effect.  'Tis  certain  M.  Tournefort  in  this 
Work  produces  great  numbers,  yet  are  they  for  the  molt  part  difregarded, 
and  by  a  fort  of  Fatality  they  are  ordain'd  to  be  much  coveted,  and 
but  little  ufed. 

AMONG  M.  Tournefort^  Works,  maybe  reckoned  a  Book,  or  at 
leaft  a  part  of  a  Book,  intitled,  Schola  Botanic  a,  five  Catalogus  Plant  arum, 
quas  ab  aliquot  annis  in  Horto  Regio  Parifienfi  Jhtdiofis  indigitavit  Vir  da- 
riffimus  Jofepbus  Pitton  de  Tournefort,  Doctor  Medicus,  ut  &  Pauli  Her- 
manni  Paradifi  Batavi  Prodromus,  dfc.  Amfielodami  1699.  An  Englifb- 
?nan,  whole  Name  was  Simon  Wharton,  compos'd  this  Catalogue  of 
Plants,  taught  him  by  M.  Tournefort,  under  whom  he  had  ftudy'd  Bo- 
tany three  Years. 

HIS  Elements  of  Botany  having  had  all  the  fuccefs  the  Author  him- 
felf  could  wifh  for,  he  publinYd  it  in  Latin,  for  the  benefit  of  Foreigners, 
in  the  Year  1700,  with  Additions,  under  the  Title  of  Injiitutiones  Rei 
Herbaria,  in  3  Vol.  in  40.     Whereof  the  firft   contains    the  Names  of 
Plants  difpos'd  according  to  the  Author's  Syftem,  and  the  other  two 
their  Figures  in  curious  Copper-Plates.     PrenVd  to  this  Tranflation  is 
a  large  Preface  or  Introduction  to  Botany,  wherein,  befides  an  ingenious 
and  folid   Eftablifhment   of  the   Principles  of  M.  Tournefcrt's  Syftem, 
there  is  a  very  accurate  and  agreeable  Hiftory  of  Botany  and  Botanifls. 
You  may  well  fuppofe  he  took  delight  in  a  Task,  that  illuftrated  the 
Object:  of  his  Love.     And  yet  was  he  not  fo  attach'd  to   Plants,  but 
that  he  had  almoft  an  equal  Fondnefs  for  all  the  other  Curiofities  of  Phy- 
ficks,    figured  Stones,    curious  MarcaiTites,  extraordinary  Petrifications 
and  Chryftallizations,  Shells  of  all  forts.     His  Love  of  Stones  was  the 
more  confident  with  his  Love  of  Plants,  in  that  he  took  Stones  to  be 
Plants  that  vegetate  and  have  Seeds ;  nay,  he  had  a  good  mind  to  ex- 
tend this  Syftem  to  the  very  Metals :  and  thus,  as  much  as  in  him  lay 
he  transform'd  every  thing  into  what  he  himfelf  loved  beft,  Vegeta- 
bles.    He  alfo  made  Collections  of  Habits,  Arms,  Tools  and  lnftru- 
ments  of  remote  Nations,  which  tho  not  the  immediate  Work  of  Na- 

#  ture, 


An  Elogium  on  M.  Tournefort.  xxxix 

ture,  become  philosophical  in  a  Philofopher's  hands.  Of  all  together  he 
form'd  a  Mufaeum  worth  50000  Livres.  So  great  an  Expence  would 
have  caft  a  blemifh  on  the  Life  of  a  Philofopher,  had  it  not  been  purely 
directed  to  a  philofophical  End.  It  evinces  that  M.  Tournefort,  in  Co 
narrow  a  Fortune  as  his  was,  could  not  beflow  much  on  Plealures  that 
are  more  frivolous,  and  yet  a  great  deal  more  fought  after. 

M.  TOVRNEFORTs    (Qualities  make  it  eafy  to  be  imagin'd  he 

was  the  fitted  Man  in  the  world   to    be  an    excellent  Traveller :   by 

this  Term  I  mean  not  thofe  who  barely  travel,  but  thofe  who  not  only 

have  a  moft  extenfive  Curiofity,  which  is  a  pretty  rare  thing  to  be  met 

wirh,  but  alfo,  what  is  rarer,  a  certain  Gift  of  Clearfightednefs.     Philo- 

lophers  feldom  fcour  about  the  World,  and  fuch  as  do,  are  generally  no 

great  Philofophers ;  which  makes  a  Philofopher's  Travels  to  be  extremely 

valuable.    We  therefore  count  it  an  honour  to  the  Sciences,  the  King's 

ordering  M.  Tournefort  in  1700,  to  travel  into  Greece,  Afia,  and  Afr tea. 

He  was  likewife  order'd  to  write  as  often  as  he  could  to  the  Count  de 

Font  char  train,   who  procured  him  all  poflible  Accommodations  in  his 

Voyage. 

M.TOVRNEFORT,  accompany'd  by  M.  Gundelfcheimer  a  con- 
fiderable  Phyfician,  and  by  M.  Aubriet  an  eminent  Painter,  pafs'd  as  far 
as  the  Frontiers  of  Perfia,  gathering  Simples,  and  making  Obfervations 
all  the  way.     Other  Travellers  go  by  Sea  as  much  as  they  can,  becaufe 
the  Sea  has  more  Conveniences ;  and  when  they  go  by  Land,  they  chufe 
the  moft   beaten  Roads :    Contrariwife,  M.  Tournefort  and  his  Compa- 
nions went  by  Sea  as  little  as  poflible,  and  on  Land  they  always  chofe 
untrodden  Paths,  and  ftruck  into  Places  till  then  deem'd  impracticable. 
You  will  by  and  by  read,  with  a  Pleafure  mix'd  with  Horror,  an  Ac- 
count of  their  Defcent  into  the  Grotto  of  Antiparos ;   that  is  to  fay, 
into  three  or  four  frightful  AbyfTes  one  under  another.     M.  Tour w fort  was 
highly  delighted  to  fee  therein  a   new  kind  of  Garden,  whofe  Plants 
were  all  different  Pieces  of  growing  Marble,  and  which,  according  to 
all  the  Circumftances  their  Formation  was  attended  with,   muft  needs 
have  vegetated. 

I N  vain  had  Nature  withdrawn  herfelf  into  fucb  deep  and  inacceffi- 
ble   Places   to   work  on  the  Vegetation  of  Stones:   thefe  bold  Cu- 

riofo's 


xl  An  E  l  o  g  i  u  m  on  M.  Tournefort. 

riofo's   of  ours   caught  her,    one  may    fay,   in  the    very  Fact. 

AFRICA  was  compriz'd  in  the  Defign  of  M.Toarneforfs  Voyage  ; 
but  the  Plague  then  raging  in  Egypt,  obliged  him  to  return  from  Smyrna 
into  Fiance  in  1702.  This  was  the  flrft  Obftacle  that  put  a  flop  to  his 
Progrefs.  He  came  home,  as  was  faid  by  a  great  Wit  on  a  brighter,  tho 
lels  ufeful  occafion,  laden  with  the  Spoils  of  the  East.  He  brought  away, 
befides  an  Infinity  of  different  Obfervations,  1 356  new  Species  of  Plants, 
great  part  whereof  came  naturally  under  lome  one  of  the  67 3  Genera  he 
had  eftablihYd  :  for  all  the  reft  he  was  obliged  to  create  but  25  new  Ge- 
nera, without  any  Increafe  of  Claffes ;  and  this  lhews  the  Convenien- 
cy  of  a  Syftem,  wherein  fa  many  exotick  unexpected  Plants,  fo  eafily 
enter'd.  Of  thefe  he  made  his  Coroliarium  Injlhutionunt  Rei  Herbaria, 
printed  in  1703. 

WHEN  he  was  return'd  to  Paris,  he  had  thoughts  ofrefuming  the 
Practice  of  Phyfick,  which  he  had  lacrificed  to  his  Voyage  into  the  Le- 
vant, at  a  time  when  he  began  to  be  at  the  top  of  the  Profeflion.  Ex- 
perience fhews,  that  in  all  things  which  depend  on  the  publick  Tafte, 
elpecially  in  this  kind,  Interruptions  are  dangerous :  the  Approbation  of 
Men  muft  be  forced,  and  requires  nothing  lefs  than  perlevering  to  the 
end.  M.  Tournefort  therefore  found  it  no  eafy  matter  to  renew  the 
Thred  he  had  dropt;  befides,  he  was  obliged  to  perform  his  former 
Exercifes  belonging  to  the  Royal  Garden :  to  thefe  he  join'd  alfo  thofe 
of  the  Royal  College,  where  he  had  the  Place  of  Profeffor  in  Medi- 
cine ;  the  Functions  of  the  Academy  too  required  fome  time  :  laftly, 
he  was  defirous  to  perfect  the  Relation  of  his  Voyage  into  the  Levant^ 
of  which  he  had  only  made  a  rough  Draught,  intelligible  to  none  but 
himfelf.  The  Hurry  and  Labours  of  the  Day,  which  made  the  Repofe 
of  the  Night  more  neceflary  to  him,  did  on  the  contrary  oblige  him  to 
pals  the  Night  in  other  Labours  :  and  if  one  may  fo  fay,  it  was  his  mif- 
fortune  to  be  of  a  ftrong  Conftituticn,  which  allow'd  him  to  take  a  great 
deal  on  himfelf  for  a  long  time  together,  without  feeling  any  fenfible  In- 
convenience. But  at  length  his  Health  began  to  fail,  and  yet  he  did  not 
favour  himfelf  e'er  the  more.  When  he  was  in  this  bad  State,  he  hap- 
pen'd  to  receive  a  very  violent  Contufion  on  his  Breaft,  which  he  pre- 

fcntly 


An  El  o  g  i  u  m  on  M,  Tournefort.  xli 

fcntly  conceiv'd  would  fhorten  his  days.  He  languifli'd  a  few  months, 
and  then  died,  the  28th  of  December  1708. 

BY  his  laft  Will  and  Teftament  he  bequeath'd  to  the  King  his  Cabinet 
of  Curiofities,  for  the  life  of  the  Learned :  his  Books  of  Botany  he  left 
to  the  Abbot  Bignon.  This  fecond  Article,  no  lefs  than  the  firft,  de- 
monstrates his  Love  of  the  Sciences :  'tis  making  a  Prefent  to  the  Scien- 
ces, to  make  one  to  him  that  watches  over  'em  Co  carefully,  and  favours 
them  ft)  tenderly. 

I N  the  Relation  of  his  Voyage  into  the  Levant ■,  you  will  find,  be* 
fides  all  the  Learning  we  have  hitherto  reprefented  M.  Tournefort  to  be 
Matter  of,  a  vaft  Knowledge  of  Antient  and  Modern  Hiftory,  and  an 
unbounded  Erudition,  which  we  have  faid  nothing  of,  fb  far  are  our  Elo- 
giums  from  Flattery.  One  prevailing  Quality  oftentimes  makes  us  over- 
look others,  which  yet  defer ve  their  mare  of  Praife,  and  to  be  fee  in  a 
proper  Light. 


. 


«*v 


Vot.  I.  c  The 


(  xlii  )  (K 

- 

The   Contents    of  the  Letters  m  the 

Firft  Volume. 

HE  Occaftop  and  Deftgn  of  this  Voyage.  *° '-"•  ■     '      '      pager 

Jl£3  6l  013   13V<  '.  . 

LETTER    I. 

Defection  of  the  If  and   of  Candia.  15 

LET.    it. 

Defection   of  Candid  tontinu'iL ■■'■>■  •'-  1o  a  45 

let.   in. 

T£<?  Pre/e/tf  SMte  0/  fjfe"  Greek  CWifr.  "     •  76" 

LET  IV 
Defcription  of  the  IJlands  of  Argentiere,  Milo,  Siphanto,  and  S'er'pho.   1 1 1 

LET.  V. 
Defcription  of  the  IJlands  of  Antiparos,  Paros,  and  Naxia.  144 

LET.     VI. 

Defcription  of  the  IJlands  of  Stenola,  Nicoujia,  Amorgos,  Caloyero,  Chei- 
ro,  Skinoia,  Raclia,  Nio,  Sikino,  Policand^  .Santorin,  Nanfio,  My- 
cone.  ">  177 

LET.    VII. 

Defcription  of  the  IJlands   of  Dek>&^  221 

LET.     VIII. 
Defcription  of  the  IJlands  of  Syra,  ^Tjjermia,  Zia,  Macronifi,  Joura,  An- 
dros,  and  Tinos.  245 

LET.    IX. 

Defcription  of  the  IJlands  of  Scio,  Metelin,  Tenedos,  and  Nicaria.        278 

LET.     X. 

Defcription  of  the  IJlands  of  Samos,  Patmos,  Fourni,  and  Skyros.         30$ 

L  E  T.     XI. 

t 

Defcription  of  the  Strait  of  the  Dardanelles,  of  the  Cities  of  Gullipofi  •  and 
Constantinople.  340 

LET.    XII. 
Continuation  of  the  Defcription  of  the  City  of  Constantinople.  366 


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V    O    Y    A   G    E 

INTO     THE 

LEVANT- 

By    the    KING  5s    Exprefs    Command. 


77>e  Occajion  and  Dejign  of  this  Voyage, 

[HE  Count  de Pontchartraiti,  Secretary  of  State,  towhofeCare 
the  Academies  are  committed,  and  who  is  ever  intent  upon 
I  promoting  the  Sciences,  mov'd  hisMajefty,  towards  the  End 
of  the  Year  1699,  to  fend  abroad  into  foreign  Countries  ibrne 
Perfons  that  were  capable  of  making  pertinent  Obfervations,  not  only 
upon  the  natural  Hiftory,  and  the  old  and  new  Geography  of  thole 
Parts,  but  likewile  in  relation  to  the  Commerce,  Religion,  and  Manners 
of  the  different  People  inhabiting  there. 

THE  King,  by  whole  Command  I  had  formerly  perform'd  lome  Voyages 

in  Europe^  was  pleas'd  to  pitch  upon  me  for  this  of  the  Leva/it  likewile. 

Vol.  I.  B  •  That 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant 

That  great  Prince,  who  by  his  Protection  and  Beneficence  is  ever 
contributing  to  the  Advancement  of  all  the  noble  Sciences,  being  al- 
ready exceedingly  pleafed  with  the  curious  Difcoveries,  which,  under 
his  Aulpices,  the  Gentlemen  of, the  Royal  Academy  of  Sciences  have 
from  time  to  time  made  in  the  mofl  diftant  Climates :  the  King,  I  lay, 
caus'd  it  to  be  fignify'd  to  me,  that  I  muft  fet  out  for  the  Levant,  there 
to  make  Remarks  on  every  thing  worthy  notice. 

I  WA  S  overjoy'd  at  this  further  opportunity  of  gratifying  the  flrong 
Pafllon  I  always  had  to  travel  into  .remote  Places,  where  by  perfonally 
ftudying  Nature  and  Men,  a  much  furer  Foundation  is  laid,  than  by  read- 
ing in  one's  Clofet.  I  begg'd  M.  de  Parte  bar  train  io  let  me  have  the 
chufing  of  the  Peffons  who.  were  to  accompany  me  in.  the  Execution  of 
this  Defign. 

I  WANT  ED  a  couple  of  ftanch  Men  that  could  be  depended  upon,  and 
who  were  of  a  humour  to  mare  with  me  the  Inconveniences  infeparable 
from  long  Journeys.  Nothing  is  fo  difmal,  as  to  fall  fick  in  a  Country 
where  one  knows  no  body,  and  where  Phyfick  is  unknown.  It  frets  a 
Man  too,  to  lee  fine  Objects,  and  not  be  able  to  take  Draughts  of  them  j 
for  without  this  help  of  Drawing,  'tis  impoffible  any  Account  thereof 
ihould  be  perfectly  intelligible.  By  a  fingular  good  fortune,  and  which 
anfwer'd  all  my  Willies,  I  found  in  the  Perfons  of  Meffieurs  Gundelfcbeimef 
and  Jubriet  two  real  Friends  ;  the  one  an  excellent  Phyfician,  the  other 
as  good  a  Paiutcr.  M.Gundelfchetmer,  a  Native ;<rf  Jnffach^  i\i  Franconia, 
is  at  this  time  Counfellor  and  Phyfician  to  the  Electoral  Prince  of  Bran- 
denburvb'.  To  an  extreme  Paflion  for  Natural  Hillory,  he  has  join'd  a 
compleat  Knowledge  of  Vegetables  and  Phyfieks  in  general.  I  am  be- 
holden to  his  Care,  for  great,  part  of  the  icarce  Plants  which  I  mall  men- 
tion in  the  courfe  of  this  Work. 

M.  AoBRJET  of  Chalons  m  Cbsappagne,  is  no  lefs  mduftrious  than 
skilful  in  paiuting  in  miniature  the  Plants  of  the  Royal  Garden.  No- 
thing has  hitherto  been  leen  fb  beautiful  in  that  way  :  and  accordingly 
his  Ability  has  merited  him  the  Place  of  Painter  ,f  the  Kjng'.s  Clofet. 

S  E  C  U  RE  that  thefe Gentlemen  were  my  Well-wilhci-s,  I  prefcnted  them 
to  M.  VAbb'e  Rigpfot  ;  whole  marvellous  Tafte.  for  all  the  Sciences,  made 
him  long  ago  fenfible  how  necefiary  it  was  to  go  and  afcertain  one's  felf 

upon 


The  Occafion  and  Dejign  of  this  Voyage.  3 

upon  the  fpot,  concerning  what  the  Antients  knew  of  Natural  Hiftory, 
and  principally  of  Vegetables.  And  indeed,  after  having  rang'd  under 
their  rcfpe&ive  Genus's  all  fuch  as  are  already  known,  what  could  a  Man 
do  more  advantageous  for  Botany,  than  to  enrich  it  with  new  Species, 
particularly  fuch  as  were  made  ufe  of  by  the  antient  Phyficians  in  the 
Cure  of  Maladies  ? 

SOME  rime  afterwards,  M.  de  Pontchartrain  fix'd  our  Departure  for 
the  ninth  of  March,  1700.  He  wrote  a  Letter  to  M.  VAbb'e  Bignon,  Pre- 
fident  of  the  Royal  Academy  of  Sciences,  to  let  him  know  that  the  King 
had  order'd  me  to  go  into  Greece,  to  the  Iflands  of  the  Archipelago,  and 
into  Apa  ;  to  make  diligent  Search  after  things  relating  to  Natural  Hifto- 
ry ;  to  inform  my  felf  touching  the  feveral  Diftempers  and  Medicaments 
in  thole  Countries ;  to  compare  the  Antient  Geography  with  the  Mo- 
dern •,  and  that  his  Majefty  had  granted  me  an  Afliftant,  as  likewife  a 
Painter,  and  would  defray  all  the  Charges  of  our  Voyage. 

THIS  Letter  was  read  in  the  AfTembly  the  16th  of  February.  The 
Society  exprefs'd  a  great  deal  of  Joy  at  an  Undertaking  which  promis'd 
fo  well  for  Phyficks,  and  which  fhew'd  how  much  his  Majefty  had  at 
heart  the  perfecting  the  different  parts  thereof.  At  the  fame  time  M.  VAb- 
be Bignon  propos'd  to  them  M.  Gundelfcheimer^  who  was  unanimoufly 
accepted,  and  his  Letters  were  expedited  in  quality  of  the  Academy's 
Agent,  to  aid  me  in  my  Labours.  He  thank'd  the  Society  at  the  firft 
Meeting,  and  was  prefent  at  all  the  reft  till  the  day  of  our  departure, 
which  was  the  fixth  of  March,  when  we  took  our  leave  of  them,  and 
afterwards  went  to  Versailles,  to  receive  the  laft  Orders  of  M.  de  Pont- 
chartrain, and  of  the  King's  chief  Phyfician.  M.  Fagon,  who  fb  diftin- 
guifhingly  poffefles  that  Poll,  not  content  with  having  oftentimes  fpoken 
to  the  King  concerning  the  Advantages  that  might  accrue  from  fuch  a 
Voyage  towards  the  illuitrating  of  Natural  Hiftory,  was  further  pleas'd  to 
introduce  me  to  his  Majefty  ;  who  with  his  wonted  Goodnefs  accep- 
ted a  '  Book  which  he  had  eiven  me  leave  to  dedicate  to  him.  ' In(liu 

D  It  ei  Hwbarix. 

THE  9th  of  March  we  fet  out  in  the  Flying-Coach,  and  reach'd  Lyons 
in  feven  days  and  a  half.  Here  we  law  the  Collection  of  rare  Plants, 
which  Ml  Gotjfon  obferv'd  in  the  Alps.  That  learned  Phyfician  promifes- 
the  Publick  not  only  a  Hiftory  of  the  Vegetables  growing  in  the  Ncigh- 

B  2  bourhood 


4.  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

bourhood  of  Lyons,  but  alio  feveral  uncommon  Obiervations  in  Ana- 
tomy ;  and  above  all,  fuch  as  concern  the  Structure  of  the  Ear.  M.  Gotf~ 
fon  brought  us  acquainted  with  Father  de  Colonia,  Library -Keeper  of  the 
Jefoits,  a  learned  Antiquary.  He  has  collected,  in  a  very  fhort  timer 
an  amazing  number  of  Greek  and  Latin  Medals,  Idols,  Utenfils  ferving 
for  the  Heathen  Sacrifices,  Weights  and  Meaiures  of  the  Antients,  Ta- 
Iifmans ;  and  in  fine,  every  thing  that  regards  Polite  Antiquity. 

THE  1 6th  of  March  we  fell  down  the  Rhone  to  Condrieu,  a  Village  in 
Dauphiny,  feven  Leagues  from  Lyons,  and  two  from  Vienne.     The  next 
day  we  lay  at  Pouzin,  a  little  Town  four  Leagues  below  Faience. 
A ;x.  THE  1 8th  we  went  aihore  at  Avignon,  from  whence  we  let  forward 

for  Aix,  a  Day's  Journy  from  Avignon.  Without  being  partial  to  the 
Place  of  my  Nativity  I  fpeak.  it,  Aix  for  its  biguefs  is  one  of  the  beft- 
built  agreeable  Cities  in  all  France.  After  I  had  embrae'd  my  Relations, 
we  went  and  paid  our  Refpects  to  M.  de  Boyer  d?  Aiguilles,  Counfellor  in  Par- 
liament :  and  however  curious  his  Pictures  are,  We  were  lefs  affected  by 
them  than  by  his  own  perfbnal  Merit.  That  learned  Magiftrate  not 
only  excels  in  the  Knowledge  of  Antiquity,  but  is  endow'd  with  that 
cxquifite  Tafte  for  Drawing,  which  gives  fuch  an  additional  Luftre  to  the 
Great  Men  in  that  kind.  M.  d?  Aiguilles  has  caus'd  to  be  grav'd  part  of 
his  Collection,  upon  a  hundred  large  Plates,  after  the  Originals  of  Raphael, 
Titian,  Michael  Angelo,  Paul  Veronefe,  Corregio,  Carrachio,  Tintoret,  Gui- 
do,  Pouffin,  Bourdon,  Le  Sueur,  Puget,  Valentine,  Rubens,  Vandyke,  and 
other  Mailers.  That  worthy  Gentleman  muft  permit  me  to  tell  the 
World,  that  fbme  of  thofe  Plates  he  grav'd  with  his  own  Hand  ;  that  the 
Frontifpieces  of  the  two  Volumes,  which  compofe  the  faid  Collection, 
are  of  his  own  Invention  ;  that  the  Ingravers,  for  the  Truth  of  the 
Contours,  and  the  Force  of  the  Expreflions,  were  directed  intirely  by 
himfelf.  There  cannot  be  a  nobler  Diverfion  for  a  Man  of  Quality, 
who,  over  and  above,  fb  worthily  difcharges  the  Duties  of  his  high 
Station. 

M.  DE  THOMASSIN  MJZjiVGVES  is  another  Counfellor  of 
the  Parliament  of  Provence :  a  Gentleman  of  diftinguiih'd  Merit,  who  puts 
us  in  hopes  of  a  Collection  of  Letters  by  M.  de  Peyrefc,  which  in  Manu- 
fcript  have  been  handed  about  through  the  whole  Kingdom.     That  indefa- 
tigable 


The  Occafan  and  Dejign  of  this  Voyage.  £ 

tigable  Man  left  above  ioo  Letters  all  of  his  own  Hand-writing,  as  M.  Sport 
oblerves.  It  is  confidently  reported,  that  M.  de  Peyrefc's  Heirs,  for  one 
whole  Winter,  made  uie  of  the  Papers  they  found  in  his  Clofet  for  Firing 
to  warm  themfelves.  Better  had  it  been  to  have  burnt  Cedar,  or  the 
Wood  of  Aloes :  Enough  of  both  thefe,  Nature  every  day  produces  ; 
but  luch  a  Man  as  M.  de  Peyrefc,  the  World  perhaps  may  never  fee. 

AMONG  the  other  Literati  of  our  Town,  is   reckon'd  M.  Gamier, 
Prior  de  la  Valette ;  that  great  Aftronomer,  fo  prais'd  by  Gajfendus.    '  Scaliger  'J^'5'  0puf' 
and '  Cafaubon,  who  were  not  over-lavifh  of  their  Encomiums,  agree  that '  r>e  satir, 
M.  de  Rafcas  de  Bagarris,  Clofet-Keeper  to  Henry  IV.  was  one  that  under- 
flood  all  the  antique  Monuments  wonderfully  well.     We  muft  not  forger 
Hannibal  Fabrot,  an  eminent  Lawyer,  and  who  was  a  perfect  Matter  of 
the  Greek  Tongue,  and  thorowly  knew  the  Oriental  Hrftory,  as  is  appa- 
rent from  the  Verfions  he  made  of  fome  Volumes  of  the  Byzantine  Hifto- 
ry,  and  his  learned  Notes  upon  the  raoft  obfcure  PafTages.     Father  Tho- 
majfin  and  Father  Cabajfut,  Priefts  of  the  Oratory,  will  for  ever  be  arv 
Honour  to  the  City  of  Jix.     Their  Erudition  was  unbounded,  as  like- 
wile  was  that  of  Father.  Pagi  a  Cordelier^  one  of  the  profoundeft  Chra- 
nologers  of  the  lad  Age. 

THERE  are  few  Cities  in  the  Kingdom,  or  perhaps  in  Europe,  where 
there  have  been  more  Cabinets  of  Curiofities  :  nay,  at  this  very  time  there 
are  very  fine  things  to  be  feen,  efpecially  at  the  Intendant  M.  le  Brefs.. 
Hardly  any  Ship  comes  from  the  Levant  to  Provence,  but  either  the 
Merchants  or  lome  of  the  Sailors  bring  with  them  Medals,  grav'd  Stones, 
or  other  Rarities  of  Antiquity ;  which  they  eafily  find  vent  for,  becaufe 
the  Parliament  and  the  other  fuperiour  Courts  being  held  at  Atx,  the 
Country  is  oblig'd  to  repair  thither  as  the  Centre  of  Bufinels. 

THE  27th  of  March  we  arriv'd  at  Marseilles.  The  firft  thing  I  did,  Marseille. 
was  to  wait  upon  the  Commiffioners  of  Trade,  to  whom  I  imparted  the 
Orders  M.  de  Pontchartrain  had  charg'd  me  with.  There  being  no  Ship 
ready  to  fet  out  for  the  Levant,  we  had  time  enough  to  view  the  Beau- 
ties of  that  City,  and  to  admire  the  Alterations  which  have  been  made 
there  in  this  Reign.  If  they  go  on  building  in  the  lame  magnificent  man- 
ner, Marfeilles  will  loon  recover  the  Luftre  it  had  in  the  time  of  the 
Greeks  and  Romans :  for  all  that  we  fee  there  of  the  old  Town  is  the 

Work. 


6  A  V  o  y  a  g  e  into  the  Levant. 

Work  of  later  Times,  which  even  then  had  a  tang  of  the  Gothick  Igno- 
rance and  Barbarifm. 

RevumGeog.  ST R  A  BO,  the  exacteft  of  the  antient  Geographers,  as  great  an  Ad- 
mirer as  he  was  of  the  Afiatick  Buildings,  wherein  nothing  was  ufed  but 
Marble  and  the  glittering  Granate,  defcribes  Marfeilles  as  a  City  very  hand- 
lomly  built,  and  of  a  confiderable  Largenefs,  difpos'd    in  manner  of  a 

■  AetriJiav.    Theatre  round  a  '  Haven  naturally  form'd  by  Rocks.     Peradventure  it 

Euftath.  ad  .       '       • 

Dionyf.Perieg.  was  yet  more  luperb  before  the  Reign  of  Auguftus,  under  whom  Strabo 
*'  .j5"        :  liv'd :  for  that  Author,  fpeaking  of  Cyzicus  as  one  of  the  bravefl  Cities  of 
Afia,  has  this  Obfervation,  That  it  was  beautify'd  M'ith  the  fame  Orna- 
ments of  Architecture,  as  had  been  formerly  leen  at  Rhodes,  Carthage, 
and  Marfeilles. 

THERE  are  not  to  be  found  any  Remains  of  that  antient  Splendour : 
it  were  but  labour  loft,  to  look  for  the  Foundations  of  Apollo's  and  Diana's 
'  tfliff(M$l&  Temples,  which  its  Founders,  the  *  Phoceans,  had  erected  there.     All  that 
MeeawAi*      we  know  of  the  matter,  is,  that  thofe  Edifices  were  in  the  higheit  part 
G^'.'iiiM.  of  the  Town      Neither  can   we  find  the  place  where  Pytheas  fix'd  his 
»  Tnifutr.      famous  ''  Needle,  for  determining  the  Elevation  of  the  Pole  of  Marfeilles. 
hb.V. '  '       Pytheas,  who  was  of  this  Town,  and  who   flourifh'd  in  Alexander's  time, 
was,  according  to  Gajfendtts,  the  antientcfl  of  all  the  Men  of  Letters  that 
the    Eaft,   produc'd.     Glorious  it  is  for  France,   as  M.  Caffini,  the  beft 
Aftronomer  of  our  Age,  obferves,  to  have  given  Birth  to  a  Perfbn  ca- 
pable of  carrying  his  Speculations  to  a  point   of  Subtilty,    which  the 
Greeks  had  not  then  been  able  to  attain,  though  they  afTum'd  to  tbem- 
felves  the  Invention  of  all  Sciences. 

MA  RSEILLES  may  not  only  boafl  of  having  given  the  Sciences  In- 
duction into  Gaul,  but  likewife  of  having  form'd  one  of  the  three  mod  fa- 
mous Academies  in  the  World,  and  of  having  fhared  her  Scholars  with  Athens 
*  Tacit.  mVit.  and  Rhodes.     4  Marfeilles  was  reforted  to  from  all  parts,  for  the  Study  of 
gr.  cap.  4.   ^e  -Qenes  Lettres  and  Philofbphy.     The  Romans,  on  account  of  its  Polite- 
neis,  lent  their  Children  to    be  educated  there  :    and  the  Gauls,    who 
were  not  over-proud  of  that  Virtue,  were  fo  delighted  with  the  Greek 
♦Strab.Rer.    Tongue,  which  was  ipoJten  in  its  Purity  at !  Marfeilles,  that  they  made 
0&'  '  '  4'  ufe  of  it  even  in  their  publick  Acts. 

THO 


The  Occafion  and  Dejign  of  this  Voyage.  7 

THO  the  People  of  Marfeilles  at  prefent  make  Trade  and  Com- 
merce their  principal  Occupation,  yet  it  is  a  Place  that  often  produces 
very  ingenious  Men  in  every  relpedt.  'Tis  with  juft  rcafon  that  France  has 
admired  the  Eloquence  of  M.  Mafcaron  Bifhop  of  Jpen.  The  Chevalier 
d'fleriicu  was  well  skill'd  in  the  Oriental  Tongues.  M.  Rigord  is  emi- 
nent among  the  Antiquaries,  as  is  Father  Feuillee,  a  Mininie,  among  the 
Aftronomers.  Father  Plunder  of  the  fame  Order,  and  of  the  lame  Town, 
has  immortaliz'd  himfelf  by  the  Difcovery  of  above  nine  hundred  Plants, 
which  had  elcap'd  the  diligence  of  other  Travellers  into  America.  He 
died  toward  the  Cloie  of  the  Year  1704,  at  Port  St.  Mary  over  a- 
gainft  Cadiz,  where  he  was  waiting  for  PafTage  to  Peru,  by  the  King's 
Order. 

W  E  were  not  long  at  Marfeilles  e'er  we  went  to  lee  the  lad  Performances  m.  Paget"* 
of  M.  Puget,  an  admirable  Sculptor,  great  Painter,  and  excellent  Architect.    ogMm' 
He  was  born  at  Marfeilles  in  1623,  of  Parents  who  had  not  Eftate  enough 
to  keep  up  their  Name.     The  happy  Difpofitions  he  had  for  Drawing* 
difcover'o!    themfelves    as  foon   as  he  could  well    hold  a  Pencil.     At 
fourteen  Years  of  Age  he  was  put  out  to  the  Sieur  Roman,  the  ablefl 
Sculptor  and  beft  Shipwright ;  who,  after  two  Years,   was  lb  fatisfy'd 
with  his  Difciple,  that  he  left  it  to  him  intirely  to  build  a  Gaily  of  con- 
fiderable  magnitude,   and  likewife  to  do  the  carving  parr.     After  this 
Specimen,  young  Puget  fet  out  for  Italy,  and  rarry'd  about  a  Year  at 
Florence,  where  he  wrought  half  a  dozen  graven  Stands  for  Candleflicks 
by  the  Great  Duke's  Order.    This  would  have  procur'd  him  more  confide- 
rable  Work,  if  the  ftrong  Defire  he  had  to  fee  Rome  had  not  indue1  d  him  to 
quit  that  Court.     At  Rome  he  apply'd  himfelf  intirely  to  Painting,  and 
gave  fo  well    into  Peter  de  Cortona's  Manner,  that  that  eminent  Artifl 
happening  one  day  to  pafs  by  a  Houfc  where  M.  Paget  had  fet  out  one  of 
his  Pictures  for  mow, ' fie  had  the  Cmiofity  to  go  in,  and  cngag'd  the' 
Author  to  accompany  him  to  Florence,  whither  he  wasfent  for,  to  paint 
a  Gallery  for  the  Great  Duke :  but  M.  Puget  loon  went  back  to  Romef 
being  promis'd  by  a  certain  Perfbn,  Agent  to  the  Queen  Mother,  that 
he  fhbuld  be  employ'd  by  her  Majefty   m  drawing  the  Jmeft  Pieces  of 
Antiquity.     He  acquitted   himfelf  perfectly  well    of  this  CommiiTIon, 
and  took  fuch  a  Relilh  for  Painting,  that  he  ftaid  there  near  fifteen  Years ; 

and 


8  A  VorAGE  into  the  Levant. 

and  had  not  come  away  then,  but  to  look  after  what  little  Matters  his 
Father  had  left  him.  The  Duke  de  Breze,  Grand  Admiral  of  France, 
order'd  him  to  make  a  Model  of  as  noble  a  Ship  as  he  could  invent : 
which  Model  was  follow'd,  and  the  Ship  was  named  the  Queen.  He 
then  invented  thole  beautiful  Galleries,  which  Foreigners  have  fo  much 
admir'd,  and  but  faintly  imitated.  He  drew  fome  Pieces  at  Thoalon,  a 
St.  Felix  in  the  Church  of  the  Capuchins,  an  Annunciation  for  the  Do- 
minicans, and  another  Picture  which  is  in  the  Cathedral.  At  La  Valette 
near  Thoulon  are  feen  three  Pieces  of  his ;  one  at  the  high  Altar,  repre- 
fenting  St.  John  writing  the  Apocalyple  ;  St.  Jofepb  in  the  Agony  of 
Death  ;  and  St  Hermentariiu. 

A  T  Marseilles  he  painted,  for  the  Church  de  la  Majour,  the  baptizing  of 
Qlovis,  and  that  of  Conjlantin :  but  that  Piece  of  his  call'd  the  Saviour 
of  the  World,  is,  if  pofiible,  more  beautiful.  The  Jefliits  have  in  their 
Houle  atjix  two  Paintings  by  this  excellent  Man,  the  Annunciation, 
and  the  Vifitation  of  the  Virgin.  The  Education  of  Achilles  is  the  laft 
thing  he  did  :  it  remains  in  his  Son's  Gallery, 

M.  PVGET  had,  in  1657,  fo  dangerous  a  Fit  of  Sicknefs,  that  after 
his  Recovery  he  was  advis'd  by  bis  Friends  and  Phyfician  never  any  more 
to  meddle  with  Painting.  But  how  was  it  poflible  to  check  fo  lively  a 
Fancy,  feconded  by  fuch  capable  Hands  ?  However,  whether  it  was 
becauie  Sculpture  was  eafier  to  him,  or  that  he  had  a  mind  to  go  on 
with  the  Models  he  was  then  upon  purely  for  his  diverfion,  he  never  ap- 
ply'd  himfelf  any  more  to  Painting.  Some  time  afterwards  he  began 
that  fine  Gate  of  the  Tovvn-Houfe  of  Thoulon,  whole  two  *  Termini 
under  the  Balcony,  the  Marquifs  de  Seignelay  was  fo  pleas'd  with,  as  to 
propofe  to  the  King  to  have  them  brought  to  ferfailles.  The  Arms  of 
France  in  BafTb-Relievo  of  Marble,  was  another  piece  of  V/ork  done 
about  the  fame  time  by  M.  Paget ;  and  is  one  of  the  chief  Ornaments  of 
the  Town-Houfe  of  Marseilles. 

HE  came  to  Paris  in  1659,  being  invited  thither  by  M.  Girardin ;  who 
for  fome  time  employ'd  him  at  his  Seat  of  Vaudretdl  in  Normandy,  to 
make  two  large  Figures-  which  M.  le  Pautru  was  fo  taken  with,  that  he 

*  Figures,  the  upper  part  like  a  human  Shape,  and  ending  in  a  Pedejlal ;  call'd  Termini  by  the  Antknts, 
who  ujtd  them- for  Boundaries,  and  number  d  them  among  their  Gods.     The  French  call  them  Termcs. 

advis'd 


The  Occctfion  and  Defign  of  this  Voyage. 

advisrd  M.  Fouqaet  to  make  ufe  of  fo  great  Mafter  in  the  Works  of  Faux- 
le-Yicomte.     Marble  being  a  fcarce  Commodity  at  Paris,  that  Minifter, 
who  had  an  exquifite  Tafte  for  every  thing  that  was  excellent,  order'd 
M.Pacct  to  go  to  Italy,  and  buy  up  as  many  Blocks  of  Marble  as  he 
pleas' d  :  by  this  means  he  was  the  firft  Man  that  made  that  beautiful  Scone 
io  familiar  to  us.     While  he  was  at  Genoa  freighting  three  Shipload  of  it, 
he  carv'd  that  noble  Hercules,  which  is  now  at  Seaux,  leaning  on  a  Shield 
charg'd  with  Flower-de-luces.     The  News  of  that  Minifter's  Diigrace, 
kept  him  at  Genoa  longer  than  he  propos'd.     He  left  there  two  admirable 
Figures,  St.  Sebajlian  and  St.  Ambrofe,  placed  among  the  Pillars  of  the  Cu- 
pola of  St.  Peter  de  C.arignan.     Under  that  of  St.  Ambrofe,  he  has  repre- 
fentcd  the  blefTed  Alexander  Saul/,  a  Prelate  of  an  exemplary  Life,  whole 
Anceftors  founded  that  Church.     M.  Paget  did  likewife  acquire  great  Fame 
by  his  Piece  of  the  Virgin,  which  is  in  the  Palace  of  Balbi. 

THE  Duke  of  Mantua  about  the  fame  time  caus'd  him  to  make  a 
Bafto-Relievo  of  the  Afiiumption,  which  drew  thither  the  Cavalier  Ber- 
nini ;  and  that  great  Man  allow'd  it  to  be  a  compleat  Piece.  The  Duke 
left  nothing  unattempted  to  engage  M.  Paget  in  his  Service,  and  pro- 
mis'd  him  lbme  confiderable  Pofts  in  the  Government ;  but  died  ibon 
after. 

MARIA  SAVLIy  a  Nobleman  of  Genoa,  who  after  the  example  of 
his  Anceftors  has    expended   great  Sums  for  adorning  the   Church  of 
St.  Peter  de  Carignan,  pray'd  M.  Paget  to   make  a  Model  of  a  Canopy 
for  the  great  Altar.     This  Work  fhews  to  what  a  degree  of  Perfection 
that  incomparable  Man  had  carry'd  Architecture.     Whilft  he  was  pre- 
paring to  execute  it,  M.  Colbert,  upon  M.  Bernini  s>  Character  of  him, 
oblig'd  him  to  come  to  Prance  by  the  King's  Command  ;  where  his  Ma- 
jefty  honour'd  him  with  a  Penfion  of  1 200  Crowns,  in  quality  of  Sculp- 
tor, and  Director  of  the  Works  which  regarded  the  Shipping  and  Gallies. 
M.  Paget,  defifous  to  go  upon  things  of  a  longer  duration,  ap      ha    .ig 
done  his  Duty  in  that  refpect,  undertook  a  BaiTo-Relievo  of  Alexander 
and  Diogenes  -.  it  is  the  grandeft  Piece  of  Sculpture  he  ever  perform'd  ; 
but  he  did  not  finifh  it  till  a  little  before  he  died.     Milo  Crotonienfis  was 
the  firft  and  fineft  Performance  of  M.  Paget,  that  ever  came  to  Verjailks : 
Anguiih  and  Rage  are  imprinted  upon  the  Vifage  of  Milo  j  every  Mulcle 
Vol.  I.  C  of 


10  ^  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

of  the  Body  is  expreffive  of  the  Stragglings  of  that  fturdy  Priie-fighter 
to  difingage  one  of  his  Hands  caught  fall  within  the  Trunk  of  a  rifted 
Tree,  which  he  was  trying  to  pull  in  pieces ;  whilft  with  the  other  he  is 
tearing  up  by  the  roots  the  Tongue  of  a  Lion  that  was  going  to  devour 
him  behind. 

THE  Marquifs  de  Louvois,  Super-Intendant  of  the  Buildings  after 
M.  Colbert's  Death,  wrote  to  M.  Puget,  that  his  Majefty  was  defirous 
he  would  undertake  a  Groupe,  to  accompany  that  of  Milo.  M.  Puget 
made  the  Model  of  his  Andromeda,  but  finding  himfelf  indiipos'd,  he 
caus'd  one  of  his  Difciples  to  rough-hew  it ;  and  after  he  himfelf  had 
finiih'd  the  lame,  it  was  prefented  to  his  Majefty  by  his  Son.  The  King 
not  only  honour'd  him  with  the  Character  of  a  moft  excellent  Sculp- 
tor, but  likewiie  ftiled  him  Inimitable. 

SOME  Years  afterwards,  patting  through  Marseilles,  I  told  M.  Puget 
that  the  Figure  of  Andromeda  was  thought  to  be  too  imall,  and  that 
Perfeus  look'd  a  little  oldifh  for  fo  young  a  Hero.  He  anfwer'd  me  very 
calmly,  that  one  of  his  Men  named  Verrier,  who  was  fince  grown  very 
eminent  in  Statuary,  had  in  the  rough-hewing  made  the  Figure  of  An- 
dromeda a  little  too  fhort ;  but  yet  that  there  would  be  found  in  it  the 
lame  Proportions  as  in  the  Venus  of  Media's.  As  for  that  of  Perfeus^ 
added  he  liniling,  the  Down  on  his  Cheeks  denotes  him  to  be  of  no  fuch 
advanc'd  Age. 

M.  PVGET  has  preferv'd  his  Father's  final  Work,  namely,  the  Baf- 

Relief  of  St.  Charles,  wherein  the  Plague  of  Milan   is  reprefented  in  fo 

moving  a  manner.     This  beautiful  Piece  was  long  ago  befpoke  by  the 

Abbot  de  la.  Chambre,  Curate  of  St.  Bartholomew  :  but  it  was  very  late 

e'er  M.  Puget  finifiVd  it.     His  Son  has,  in  Wax,  the  Equeftrial  Figure  of 

the  King,  which  was  to  have  been  erected  in  the  Royal  Square  at  Mar- 

feilles,  of  which  likewife  his  Father  had  drawn  the  Plan.     M.  Lauthier  a 

celebrated  Lawyer,  and  M.  Girardon  his  Majefty's  Sculptor  in  chief,  have 

lome  Sea-Pieces  done    with    a  Pen    by  M.  Puget :   they  are  perfectly 

charming. 

EQUALLY  happy  in  Invention,    Fecundity  of  Fancy,    Noblenefs 
of  Tafte,  and  Correctuefs  of  Defign,  he  animated  the  very  Marble,  anc 
made  it  as  it  were  breathe  :  The  hardeft  Stones  foften'd  and  grew  tender 

under 


The  Qccafion  and  Defign  of  this  Voyage. 

under  his  Chizzel,  and  acquir'd  from  his  Hands  that  Flexibility  which  is 
the  eflcntial  Character  of  Flefh,  and  which  makes  ye  fee  it  even  through 
the  very  Drapery.  This  Brisknefs  of  Fancy,  join'd  to  fuch  lively  and 
natural  Expreffions,  is  a  Gift  from  Heaven  not  to  be  attain'd  by  any 
Study.  How  many  Figures  do  we  meet  with,  to  the  laft  degree  cor- 
rect and  yet  as  cold  and  flifF  as  the  Marble  or  Brafs  they  are  made  of! 
M.  Pwet  died  at  Mar/eilles  in  1695,  aged  Seventy  Two  Years. 

THE  Arfenal  and  the  Gally-Dock  are  well  worth  the  feeing.  The 
Grandeur  of  the  King,  and  the  Vigilance  of  M.  de  Pontchartrain,  are 
confpicuous  in  every  corner  thereof.  The  Armory  is  one  of  the  nobleft 
and  beft-order'd  of  the  whole  Kingdom.  The  Rope- Yard,  in  its  kind, 
yields  not  to  the  fineft  Work-houfes  of  the  Dock.  The  very  Spinning- 
places  for  Sails,  the  Smithy,  the  Sheds  for  Oars,  all  confefs  the  exacl:  Re- 
gularity and  conlummate  Neatnefs  of  M.  de  Montmor,  Intendant  of  the 
Gallies. 

THIS  Intendant  does  not  take  cognizance  of  the  Affairs  of  Com- 
merce :  they  are  within  the  Jurifdiclion  of  the  Intendant  of  Juftice,  who 
fits  as  Chief  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce ;  a  particular  Court,  con- 
fiding of  the  Echevins,  and  a  certain  number  of  the  greateft  Traders  of 
Marseilles.  This  Chamber  gives  a  Penfion  of  18, coo  Livres  to  our  Em- 
balTador  at  the  Porte,  to  maintain  the  Rights  ftipulated  to  France  for  the 
Levant-Trade.  They  pay  6000  Livres  yearly  to  the  Intendant,  as  Judge 
Commercial ;  and  befides  all  this,  they  allow  confiderable  Salaries  to  the 
French  Confuls  and  their  Chancellors  in  the  Sea-ports  of  the  Levant. 
Thofe  Confuls  are  properly  Long-robed  Swordmen,  if  one  may  ufe  that 
Expreflion  ;  and  the  Chancellors  are  National  Notaries.  The  Chamber 
is  often  oblig'd  to  extraordinary  Expences,  cfpecially  in  Prefents  to  the 
Bafhaws  on  their  Arrival  in  the  Sea-ports,  and  in  making  good  the 
Damages  frequently  fuffer'd  by  the  French  from  the  OppreiTion  and  Ex- 
tortion of  the  Turks. 

THIS  Chamber  not  only  fetches  up  its  Charges,  but  makes  vafl 
Advantages  of  the  Conlulary  Duties  paid  in  the  Levant,  by  fitch  Com- 
modities as  are  laden  where  there  are  French  Confuls :  Thefe  Duties  are 
paid  to  the  Deputies  of  each  Port,  and  they  account  for  the  fame  to  the 
Chamber  of  Commerce  at  Marfeilles.    Thefe  Gentlemen  had  for  lbme 

C  2  time 


II 


12  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

time  the  Nomination  of  the  Confuls :  the  Court  has  now  taken  it  out 
of  their  hands,  and  the  CommiiTIoners  in  all  their  Tranfactions  are  fub- 
ordinate  to  the  Minifler  who  has  the  Super-Intendance  of  Commerce. 

THE  French  never  had  fo  confiderable  a  Trade  to  the  Levant  as 
now.  It  rivals,  nay  exceeds  that  of  all  other  Nations,  through  the  good 
Management  and  Oeconomy  fettled  therein  by  M.  de  Pontchartrain  .•  our 
Merchandizes  yield  quick  Returns  in  thole  parts,  when  they  are  of  the 
quality  requir'd.  There  needs  no  prodigious  Genius  to  carry  on  this 
Trade,  but  a  great  deal  of  Probity  and  Honefty  :  all  Bufinefs  there  goes 
through  the  hands  of  the  Jews,  The  Cuftoin  of  the  Country  muft  be 
comply'd  with ;  that  is  to  fay,  we  mull:  trull  them  with  our  Effects,  fell 
them  according  as  they  advife,  buy  up  Goods  of  the  Levant,  and  barter 
ours  juft  as  they  think  convenient.  The  Jews  make  all  the  Bargains ; 
for  which  they  have  Brokerage,  and  there's  an  end  of  the  matter  :  So 
that  if  a  Man  is  prudent,  he  need  not  doubt  growing  rich ;  efpecially 
if  he  avoids  Commerce  with  the  Greek  Women,  who  are  the  moft  dan- 
gerous Traders  in  the  World. 

THE  Shops  of  the  Coral-Merchants,  the  Druggifts Ware-houfes,  the. 
Sugar-bakers,  the  Manufacturers  in  Gold,  Silk,  and  thofe  of  Soap,  are 
worthy  of  a  Traveller's  Obfervation. 

THERE  are  no  Coral-Merchants  but  at  Mar  fellies  and  Genoa:  thofe 
of  Marseilles  have  much  the  greater  Dealings ;  the  whole  Eaft  is  fill'd  with 
their  Necklaces  and  Bracelets.  This  has  been  a  (landing  Commerce  for 
many  Ages  :  we  are  alTur'd  by  Pliny,  that  the  Gauls  wanted  Coral  at  home 
to  adorn  their  Arms,  having  fent  it  all  away  to  the  Indies,  where  it 
was  recommended  by  the  Priefts  as  a  Prefervative  againll:  all  Dangers.  The 
Coral  that  was  got  on  the  Coaft  of  Provence  about  the  Ifles  of  Hyeres, 
and  on  the  Coafts  of  Sicily,  was  mod  in  efteem.  There  are  (till  fbme 
Fisheries  of  Coral  in  thofe  parts  ;  but  the  greateft:  of  all  is  towards  Afri- 
ca,  about  the  Bafiion  de  France,  from  whence  'tis  fent  to  Marseilles. 

M.  S  A  L  A  D  E,  one  of  the  principal  Coral-Merchants  there,  flievv'd 
us  fbme  very  fine  Pieces  of  that  Commodity,  both  rough  and  wrought. 
Wrought  Coral  fells  for  about  five  Livres  an  Ounce :  I  have  of  feveral 
colours  in  my  Scrutore,  common  red,  as  well  as  pale  and  deep  red ;  rofe- 
colour,  fleili- colour,  white,   red  and  white,  fillemot,  gridelin  ;  this  lafl 

is 


The  Occajion  and  Dejign  of  this  Voyage.  i  g 

is  brought  from  America.  But  what  is  very  remarkable,  is  a  pretty- 
large  piece  of  Coral  I  have  feen  growing  upon  a  broken  piece  of  Earthen 
Ware  :  which  demonftrates,  that  Sea-Plants  are  not  nourifh'd  like  thofe 
which  grow  on  the  Land.  What  Nutrition  can  the  Coral  derive  from  a 
Brickbat,  a  piece  of  human  Skull,  a  broken  Glafs-Bottle,  a  hard  Flint- 
Stone,  a  dry  Shell  ?  Coral  has  been  taken  up  from  the  bottom  of  the 
Sea,  flicking  naturally  upon  all  the  forenamed  Subfiances.  I  have  given 
my  Thoughts  on  this  Subject  in  the  Second  Volume  of  Memoirs  of  the 
Royal  Academy  of  Sciences,  Anno  1700.    p.  27. 

AS  for  Drugs,  you  find  in  the  Port  of  Marfei/les  every  valuable  one 
that  comes  from  Smyrna,  Aleppo,  and  Alexandria  ;  that  is  to  fay,  the  bell 
Scammony,  Caffia,  Rhubarb,  Storax  in  Tears  (/.  e.  in  Drops  or  Grains) 
Storax  liquid,  Myrrh,  Frankincenfe,  Bdellium,  Tamarinds,  Galbanum, 
Opoponax,  Sagapenum,  white  Balfam  alias  Opobalfamum,  Pepper,  Cin- 
namon, Sal  Ammoniac,  and  a  multitude  of  other  things.  Yet,  fince 
the  Dutch  have  made  fuch  powerful  Settlements  in  the  Eaft-lndies,  much 
of  the  Trade  of  Marseilles  and  Venice  is  fallen  off  The  We f -India  Drugs 
come  to  Marfeilles  directly,  or  by  the  way  of  Cadiz, :  thefe  are  the  Ipe- 
cacuana,  the  Quinquina,  Ginger,  Caffia  of  the  Iflands,  Indigo,  Rocou, 
Balfam  of  Pern,  Balfam  of  Capivj,  &c. 

A  T  Marfeilles  they  refine  to  perfection  the  Sugar  of  our  American  Plan- 
tations :  the  Soap-Trade  is  likewife  very  confiderable,  as  appears  from 
the  Confumption  not  only  of  the  Oils  of  Provence,  but  likewife  thofe 
which  are  fetch'd  from  Candia  and  Greece. 

AFTER  we  had  vrevv'd  every  thing  of  Note  in  Marfeilles,  we  took  a 
turn  into  the  Country  adjoining,  the  Wind  not  as  yet  permitting  us  to  pro- 
ceed on  our  Voyage.  The  Chartreufe  is  a  ftately  well-contriv'd  Edifice  : 
the  Burghers  Houfes,  which  are  calPd  Bafiides,  are  only  remarkable  for  their 
Number ;  and  ftand  fo  thick  together  among  the  Vines,  the  Olive  and 
the  Fig-Trees,  that  they  make  an  agreeable  Landskip. 

THE  Soil  of  Marfeilles  is  a  well-cultivated  Garden.  Being  naturally 
lean  and  hungry,  they  take  care  not  to  lofe  the  leaft  Dab  of  Dirt  in 
the  whole  City ;  nay,  they  make  advantage  of  the  very  Excrements  of 
the  Gally-Slaves,  by  placing  at  one  end  of  the  Gallies  proper  VefTels 
for  receiving  a  Manure  fo  neceflary  to  the  Country.    The  Major  of  the 

Gallies 


i4  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Gallies  makes  confiderablc  Gain  of  this  fort  of  Commodity,  which  by 
warming  the  cold  and  husky  Land,  produces  excellent  Grapes,  good 
Olives,  and  the  bell  Figs  in  the  world. 

A  S  for  us,  whole  prevailing  Paffion  was  Simpling,  we  were  perpetually 
upon  the  hunt  all  round  the  City,  and  more  particularly  in  that  fandy 
Plain  which  extends  it  lelf  along  the  Sea,  from  the  Butt  of  the  little 
Monredon  to  that  call'd  the  great  Monredon.     We  went  likewile  and  vi- 

•  or  St.  John,  fited  the  Ifles  of  the  Caflle  of  Tf,  '  Pomegues,  '  Ratonneau,  de  Maire,  Pi- 

'  st.  Stephen,  hmtey^  Riou^  Conclu,  Collefareno,  Jarret. 

'  Mifttai.  IN  fine,  after  having  waited  for  aJ  Northweil  Wind  to  carry  us  to 

Candia,  we  left  the  Port  of  Marfeilles  the  23d  of  April ;  but  the  Wind 
being  too  frelh,  we  tarry'd  among  the  Ifles,  and  put  not  to  Sea  till  the 
next  day  about  eleven  in  the  morning.  Our  Bark,  which  went  by  the 
name  of  the  Holy  Ghofi,  was  commanded  by  one  Carles,  an  honeft  Tar ; 
who  landed  us  in  the  Port  of  Cane  a  the  jd  of  May,  without  touching  any 
where  in  our  Paflage.  So  quick  a  Voyage  happens  but  rarely.  We 
run  1600  Miles  in  nine  days,  leaving  the  Ifland  of  Malta  half-way  be- 
hind us. 

THE  Length  of  Miles  is  not  precifely  determin'd  in  the  Levant, 
efpecially  at  Sea,  where  they  are  lengthen'd  or  Ihorten'd  as  every  one 
pleaies.  I  never  yet  met  with  two  Pilots  that  were  of  the  fame  mind ; 
ibme  reckoning  no  lefs  than  1800  Miles  from  Marfeilles  to  Candia,  and 
others  allowing  but  1500  :  We  follow'd  the  moll  common  Opinion, 
which  is  1600.  'Tis  much  the  fame  thing  with  relpecl:  to  the  Land:  there 
are  places  where  the  Miles  are  fo  Ihort,  that  fcarce  four  of  'em  ihall  make 
a  French  League.;  molt  commonly  three  are  enough.  Hence  arifes  the 
Difference,  or  Corrclpondence,  that  is  found  to  be  between  the  Mea- 
fures  of  the  Antients  and  thofe  of  the  Moderns.  In  the  Ealt  they  know 
nothing  of  Geometry,  or  the  Art  of  liirveying  Land  ;  and  indeed  Land 
may  be  purchas'd  there  fo  very  cheap,  that  they  don't  give  themfelves 
ihe  trouble  to  meafure  it  with  any  exadnefs. 


&. 


9& 


LET- 


(*»*) 


OC«J 


LETTER     I. 

To  Monf eigne ur   the  Count  de  Pontchartrain> 
Secretary  of  State,  Sec. 

My  Lord, 

PURSUANT  to  your  Commands,  I  give  you  a  particular  Deftription  of 
M  Account  of  what  we  obferv'd  in  Candia,  that  fam'd  Ifland Candia. 
1  fb  well  known  in  former  Ages  by  the  name  of  Crete.  The 
Letters  which  I  had  the  honour  to  write  to  you  when  I  was 
upon  the  fpot,  are  fince  my  Return  grown,  as  it  were,  under  my  Pen. 
You  gave  me  leave  to  infert  fome  Touches  of  Erudition,  to  heighten  the 
Subjects  therein  treated  of.  I  fancy  fiich  Additions  will  make  'em  lefs 
tirefbme.  What  can  a  Man  fay  of  a  Country  inhabited  by  Tsrfa,  if  he 
is  confin'd  to  what  he  fees  of  it  in  its  prefent  Condition  ?  Almofl  their 
whole  Life  is  fpent  in  Idlenefs  :  to  eat  Rice,  drink  Water,  Imoke  To- 
bacco, fip  Coffee,  is  the  Life  of  a  Muffulman.  The  Speculative  Sort 
(of  which  there  are  not  many)  employ  themfelves  in  reading  the  Alco- 
ran, confulting  the  feveral  Interpreters  of  that  Book,  thumbing  over  the 
Annals  of  their  Empire  :  what's  all  this  to  us  ?  The  things  which  at- 
tract Strangers  thither,  muft  be  a  Search  after  Antiquities,  Study  of 
Natural  Hiftory,  Commerce.  Relations  of  the  Levant  would  be  but 
dry  fluff,  if  a  Man  were  to  defcribe  nothing  but  the  prefent  State  of  the 
Provinces  under  the  Ottoman  Domination. 

THE  Pafilon  my  felf  and  Friends  had  for  the  Difcovery  of  Plants 
and  antient  Monuments,  made  us  think  the  Voyage  very  long  from 
Marfeilles  to  Candla^  the  firft  Ifland  of  Greece  which  we  were  to  land  at, 

according 


\6  ^  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

according  to  your  Lordfhip's  Orders.  And  yet  it  was  next  to  irnpoffible 
to  have  a  happier  or  fhorter  Voyage.  The  Wind  was  conftantly  in  our 
Stern,  and  in  nine  days  we  reach'd  Canea. 

Cant  a.         YOU  know,  my  Lord,  that  the  Venetians  purchas'd  this  City,  toge- 
ther with  the  reft  of  Candia,   in  1204.     They  were  in    pofleffion   of 
•,.tjTo-  Canea  till  1645.     '  IJfoaf  the  Captain-Baihaw  coming  before  the  Place 

^chard'  '      with  eighty  Ships,  and  as  many  GaJ lies,  2  took  it  in  ten  days  time.     Sul- 

Voyag.  -ran  Ibrahim  caus'd  him  to  be  ftrangled  after  his  Return  to  Conjlavtinople, 
that  he  might  have  the  Confutation  of  his  Wealth,  which  however  could 

'  dh  Loir's     not  be  very  confiderable.     ;  He  had  juft  fucceeded  to  that  famous  Mujla- 

;  Amurathiv./^  whom  Sultan  4  Jslourat  fo  tenderly,  lov'd,  as  to  defire  to  die  in  his 
Arms. 

A  T  this  time  Canea  is  the  fecond  Place  of  the  Ifland.    Befides  its  being 

'  Begierbey.  not  fb  big  as  Candia,  5  the  Viceroy  of  that  City  commands  over  the 
Bafhaw  of  Canea,  and  him  too  of  Retimo.  The  whole  Ifland  pays  obe- 
dience to  thefe  three  General's,-  and  each  has  his  refpe&ive  Province.  There 
are  not  reckon'd  to  be  in-Cant  a  above  1  5  co  Turks,  2  oco  Greeks,  ^oJetvsy 
10  or  1 2  French  Merchants,  a  Conful  of  the  fame  Nation,  and  two  Ca- 
pucins  who  are  their  Chaplains.  The  Body. of  the  Place  is  good;  the 
Walls  well  fac'd  with  Stone,  and  well  terrafs'd,  defended  by  a  deep 
Ditch,  and  there  is  but  one  Gate  land-ward. 

THE  Venetians,  who  had  caus'd  this  City  to  be  fortify'd  with  great 
care,  might  eafily  have  retaken  it  in  the  laft  War,  had  they  but  laid  hold 
of  the  Difbrder  the  Turks  were  in,  when  the  Chf  iftians  came  before  it. 
There  were  hardly  200  Men  in  the  Town  fit  to  bear  Arms,  and  the 

"Bourma.  greateft  part  were  *  Renegadoes  :  that  is  to  fay,  Fellows  without  either 
Faith  or  Fidelity,  neither  Turk  nor  Chriftian  ;  who  always  fide  with 
the  ftrongeft,  and  feek  for  nothing  but  Plunder.  If  General  Mocenigo, 
inflead  of  lofmg  eighteen  Days  in  threatning  the  Turks,  and  fummoning 
them  to  furrender,  had  fir'd  briskly  on  the  Place,  he  had  doubtlefs  car- 
ry'd  it ;  whereas  the  Breach  was  not  made  till  after  the  Bamaw  of  Re- 
timo, who  was  known  to  be  a  good  Officer,  had  thrown  Succours  into 
it.  Add  to  this,  the  French  Deferters,  who,  after  their  Commander 
M.  de  St.  Paul  was  kilPd  with  a  Cannon-mot,  being  fed  with   nothing 

'  Prifope.       but 7  Bifcuit-duft  full  of  Moufe  and  Rat-dung,  went  over  to  the  Enemy 


in 


WftisaS^^JV^CTf 


cjfa  ytfute.  ^  ^Mjij*u'n>s 


Defer ipt ion  of  the  IJland  of  Candia.  1 7 

in  a  Fit  of  Defpair,  which  brave  Men  arc  often  driven  to  by  want  of  Letter  I. 

Neceflaries.     They  fhould  likewife  have  landed  at  la  Culata,  the  further  ^^^^^^ 

end  of  the  Gulph  of  la  Suda,  which  the  Venetians  are  even  at  this  day 

matters  of;  and  then  have  entrench'd  on  the  adjoining  Eminences,  in- 

ftead  of  leaving  them  to  be  polTefs'd  by  the  Bafhaw  of  Retirno,  who  in- 

cefTantly  harafs'd  the  Befiegers  with  his  Detachments.     The  Venetians, 

no  doubt,  believ'd  that  Candia  would  be  fuccour'd  by  Sea,  and  did  not 

think  it  convenient  for  their  Fleet  to  remove  from  the  Coaft  of '  St.  Odero. '  St.ThcoJore, 

A  Couple  of  Frigats  well  arm'd  had  been  fufficient  to  block  up  the  Port 

of  Canea. 

THIS  Port,  tho  expos'd  to  the  North  Wind,  (or  the  Tramontane,  as 
they  call  it  in  the  Mediterranean)  would  be  a  pretty  good  one,  were  it 
carefully  look'd  to.  There  are  (till  to  be  feen  the  Ruins  of  a  noble  Ar- 
fenal  built  by  the  Venetians,  towards  the  left  hand  at  the  further  end  of 
the  Bafon.  All  that  remains,  is  the  Arches  of  the  Work-houfes  where 
they  fitted  up  their  Gallies.  The  Turks  intirely  negledt  the  repairing  of 
Ports  and  Walls  of  Towns.  They  take  a  little  more  care  of  the  Foun- 
tains, becaufe  they  are  great  Water-Drinkers,  and  their  Religion  obliges 
'em  very  frequently  to  wafh  every  part  of  their  Body.  The  Entrance  of 
the  Port  of  Canea  is  defended  on  the  left  by  a  finall  Fortrefs,  where  there 
is  a  Light-houfe.  The  Caftle,  which  is  on  the  right  beyond  the  firft 
Baftion,  is  quite  ruin'd.  After  you  are  paft  the  Light-houfe,  there  is  a 
very  handfome  Mofque,  with  a  low  round  Dome.  The  Front  confifts 
of  feveral  Arches,  bearing  as  many  finall  Domes  of  the  lame  profil  'as 
the  great  one.  The  Houfe  of  the  French  Capuchins  Hands  by  this  Mofque : 
their  Chappel  is  a  Room,  ill  built,  worfe  furnifli'd,  ferv'd  by  two  Friars 
of  the  Province  of  Paris  ;  one  of  thefe  bears  the  Name  of  Superior,  and 
the  other  reprefents  the  reft  of  the  Community.  The  Chamber  of 
Trade  allows  them  1 40  Crowns  yearly  ;  and  they  receive  the  Charity 
of  our  Conful,  Merchants,  and  Sailors. 

A  S  for  the  Houfes,  they  are  here,  as  every  where  elie  in  the  Levant, 
very  ordinary  :  the  beft  are  but  two  Stories  high,  of  which  the  firfl 
(that  is,  the  Ground-Floor)  ferves  for  a  Parlour,  Ware-houfe,  Cellar,  and 
Stable.  The  Walls  are  Brick- Work,  with  Free-flone  Angles.  From  the 
firft  Floor  you  afcend  to  the  fecond  by  an  almoft  perpendicular  wooden 
Vol.  I.  D  Ladder  : 


i8  ^  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Ladder  :  this  fecond  Floor  is  divided  into  different  Apartments,  accor- 
ding to  the  Capacity  of  the  Place,  and  cover'd  Terrace-wife,  but -without 
either  Brick  or  Plafter,  only  fome  Deal-Boards  put  together  like  a  Cieling, 
fupported  by  Joyfts  of  Oak   laid  two  or  three  foot  afander :  outward  it 
is  cover'd  with  a  Lay  of  Earth  temper'd  like  Mortar  and  well  beaten, 
and  then  pav'd  with  fmall  Flint  Stones  and  Pebbles.     The  Terrace  is 
made  a  little  floping,  for  the  Rain  to  run  of£    In  fine  Weather  they 
walk,  and  in  the  great  Heats  will  lie,  on  thefe  Terraces.     You  fee  to 
what  a  pitch  of  Perfection  the  Candiots  have  carry'd  the  Art  of  Building. 
Thefe  Coverings  muft  be  repair'd  every  Year.     Befides  thefe  Terrace- 
Roofs,  every  Houfe  has  commonly  another  lmall  Terrace  on  the  lame 
Floor  with  the  fecond  Story  :  'tis  properly  but  an  open  Room,  adorn'd 
with  fome  Pots  of  Flowers,  and  is  of  great  benefit  to  their  Health  ;  for 
moll  of  the  Houfes  of  the  Town  being  turn'd  to  the  North,  they  fhut 
the  Windows  when  the  Wind  fits  in  that  Corner,  and  open  the  Door 
of  the  Terrace  which   faces   the  South.     Contrarywife  they  lhut  that 
Door,  and  open  the  Windows  to  the  North,  as  foon  as  ever  the  Southerly 
Winds,   fb  dangerous   throughout  the  Levant,  begin  to  be  felt:    thefe 
Winds  are  fometimes  fo  hot,    that  they  mfTocate  People  in  the  open 
Fields. 

THE  Country  about  Can  en  is  charming,  between  the  Town  and  the 
•  *o&  Tw-  firft '  Mountains  :  fo  is  it  likewife  all  the  way  between  the  Town  and 
g^trab.R^.  the  Gulph  of  la  Sttda ;  nothing  but  Forefts  of  Olive-Trees,  as  high  as 
thofe  of  Toulon  and  Seville :  thele  never  die  in  Candia,  becaufe  it  never 
freezes  there.     The  Forefts  are  diverfify'd  with  pleafant  Fields,  Vine- 
yards, Flower-Gardens,  purling  Streams,  fhaded  with  Myrtle  and  Laurel. 
M.  TRV1LHJRT,  on  whom  your  Lordlhip  confer'd  the  Place  of 
Conlul  of  Canea,  entertain'd  us  at  his  Houfe  with  great  Civility.     He 
f  Miftaches.     affur'd  us,  that  in  the  Year  1699,  the  Ifland  yielded  300,000  J  Meafures 
of  Oil;  of  which  the  French  bought  200,000  at  Canea,  Retimo,  Candia, 
and  Girapetra,  the  only  places  where  they  take  in  Freight.     The  Crop  of 
Oils  faiPd  that  Year  in  Provence,  and  the  Ports  of  Candia  were  crouded 
with  Ships  from  MarfeiUes,  to  fetch  Supplies  for  the  Soapmakers  there. 

THE  ordinary  Meafure  of  Oil  weighs  at  Canea  eight  Oques  and  a 
half;  at  Retimo  it  weighs  ten :  the  Oque  is  three  Pound  two  Ounces, 

which 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Candia.  1 9 

which  makes  400  Drams,  according  to  the  Eaftern  way  of  Reckoning.  Letter  I. 

The  Pound  is  128  Drams,  and  the  Dram  is  60  Grains.     The  beft  Oils  of  ^"v~"^-' 

the  Ifland  are  thole  of  Retimo  and  Canea :  the  Girapetra  Oils  are  black  and 

muddy,  becaufe  before  they  empty  their  VefTels,  they  take  a  ftick  and 

ftir  up  the  Sediment,  and  fo  fell  the  Oil  and  the  Lees  all  together.     In 

1700,  the  Oils  were  worth  but  j6  to  40  Parats  a  Meafure,  or  at  moil 

but  an  '  Abouquel,  which  is  worth  44  Parats  at  Canea,  and  but  42  at  'A  p5"^'* , 

*        *  Dutch,  which 

Retimo.  The  Eagernefs  of  our  Merchants,  notwithftanding  your  Lord-  m/wto  to  one 
ihip's  Orders  that  no  Ship  ihould  go  out  of  its  turn,  raisM  the  Market  to  %™rt  %Zch. 
60  or  66  Parats  the  Meafure  :  thefe  Parats  are  a  Silver  Coin  of  a  bafe  Al-  J*«  J3"^1 
lay,  worth  about  fix  French  Farthings,  or  eighteen  Deniers  of  Provence.     **«■  Name, 

,  ,  _       ,  Aflani,  from 

BESIDES  the  Forefts  of  Olive-Trees,  there  are  abundance  of  Gardens  the  figure  of* 
about  Caned,  planted  juft  like  all  the  reft  in  Turky,  without  Order,  Sym-  2jJJ 
metry,  or  Neatnefs;     In  thefe  neglected  Orchards,  the  Trees  produce  but  Man« 
forry  Fruit ;  and  indeed  they  plant  no  other,  nor  do  they  know  what 
Grafting  means.     Their  Figs  are  infipid,  and  the  Melons  almoft  as  bad. 
We  went  to  fee  the  *  Governour's   Houfe  at  Varrouil,  the  Garden  there  '  Difdar. 
being  cry'd  up  for  a  Terreftrial  Paradife.     Before  I  defcribe  it,  I  mud  ob- 
lerve  to  your  Lordfhip,  that  Varrouil  was  once  the  handforaeft  Village  in 
all  the  Ifland.     It  was  burnt  by  the  Turks  during  the  laft  Siege  of  Caneay 
to  prevent  the  Venetians  fettling  there.     The  Greeks  of  Canea  were  all 
oblig'd  to  go  and  lie  every  night  at  this  Village,  or  rather  Suburb,  and  re- 
turn'd  again  the  next  morning  at  a  certain  hour;  and  but  for  the  Lownefs 
of  their  Circumftances,   the  Government  would  have  made  them  re- 
build it.     Nothing  is  now  to  be  feen  there  but  Ruins  and  Demolitions 
made  by  the  Fire.     The  Deftruction  of  Varrouil  was  of  no  ufe  to  any 
but  the  French,  who  ruin'd  themfelves  there  in  Luxury  and  Riot. 

THE  Governour's  Garden  is  a  little  Wood  of  Orange-Trees,  Lemons, 
and  Cedars,  intermix'd  with  Plumb,  Pear,  and  Cherry-Trees.  The 
Orange-Trees  here  are  as  ftrong  and  vigorous  as  any  in  the  beft ;  Gardens  » Quimas,  v» 
of  Portugal,  tho  not  nearfo  carefully  look'dto  :  for  tho  they're  burden'd  PonuSuefc- 
wTith  either  dead  or  fuperfluous  Branches,  they  put  forth  with  profufion 
Bunches  of  Flowers,  cluttering  upon  one  another  in  large  heaps.  They 
cultivate  in  Portugal  none  but  that  excellent  fort  of  Orange,  call'd 
throughout  Europe  the  Portugal  Orange,  and  which  the  Pcrtngueje  then> 

D  2  felve-s 


20  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

'  Naranca  da   felves  call '  China  Orange :  it  is  not  known  in  Candia.  or  any  where  ehe 

China. 

in  Turk].     In  this  Country  every  Man  is  content  with  what  he  finds  in 

his  Garden,  juft  as  it  comes  up  fpontaneous  and  without  Culture.     The 

'  Malus  Au-     common  Orange  of  the  Levant  is  a  large  fweet  or  rather  infipid  *  Oranse. 

rantia  major,  °  °  r  D  " 

c.  b.  rin.436.  with  a  thick  Rind,  bitter,  and  as  it  were  fpungy.  They  raife  here  fbrne 
Citrons,  which  are  a  fine  Fruit  when  they  are  candy'd,  but  the  Natives 
know  not  how  to  go  about  it.  The  Governour's  Garden  was  kept,  or 
*  Caloyer.  rather  neglected,  by  a  Greek  5  Monk ;  a  Wretch  without  a  Shirt  to  his 
back,  who  could  neither  read  nor  write,  any  more  than  three  or  four  of 
the  fame  Fraternity,  who  were  almofr.  eaten  up  with  the  Itch.  The  poor 
Creatures  prefented  us  with  lome  Orange-Branches  full  of  Flowers  and 
Fruit :  and  we  put  them  in  a  way  to  cure  themfelves,  by  ufing  Brimftone. 

I N  our  Return  to  Canea,  we  were  almoft  poifon'd  with  the  abomina- 
ble Stench  from  the  Burying-places.  The  World  knows,  that  the  Turks 
interr  their  Dead  upon  the  Highways  :  this  Practice  were  extraordinary 
well,  did  they  dig  the  Graves  deep  enough.  Candia  being  a  very  hot 
Country,  thefe  Smells  are  very  ofFenfive  under  the  Wind.  The  Turks 
place  a  Stone  at  each  end  of  the  Grave,  fbmetimes  a  Pillar  of  Marble 
crown'd  with  a  Turbant  inflead  of  a  Capital :  this  is  never  done  but  to 
Perfons  of  ibme  Rank. 

I  CAN'T  forbear  mentioning  here,  how  aftoniflfd  M.  Gundelfcheimer 

and  my  felf  were  in  our  firft  Walk.     Being  landed  at  Canea,  we  had  fcarce 

paid  our  Reipects  to  the  Conful,  but  we  haften'd  to  the  Gate  of  the 

♦AAEfmenard.  Town,  with  the  4  Chancellor  of  the  Nation,  to  fee  what  rare  Plants  this 

fine  Country  of  Candia  produc'd,  which  we  fo  much  long'd  for  all  the  way 

*HefperisCre.  from  Mar fei lies.     There  grows  in  the  Streets  of  Canea  a  fort  of  s  Juliane, 

Ibiio  wa'iro'hi-  witn  a  ^ar8c  Fl°wer  and  fining  Leaves,  not  to  be  defpis'd  :  We  flatter'd  our 

cido,  magno   felves  we  mould  meet  with  lome  greater  Rarity  out  of  Town,  but  to  our 

no  finall  grief  we  did  not  hit  the  right  place.     Along  by  the  Walls  on  the 

right  hand  we  pais'd  through  a  fat  Soil,  over-run  with  Clover-Grafs,  and 

other  very  common  Herbs.     I  fancy'd  my  felf  at  Barcelona  •  where,  as 

•Ch.'yfanthe-  „    ,      «  ,,       .,      ,      r  ..  t-.  11 

mum,  floie  at  Canea,  all  the  Ramparts  are  cover  d  with  thole  yellow  Flowers,  which 
S^paafa  lu- trie  Greeks  knew  not  how  to  defignate  more  properly  than  by  the  name 
ieo,  c-B.Pin.  0£  «  Q0[^en  flowers.      Our  Aflonifliment  inereas'd    as   we    approach'd 

134.  &  Chry-  rr 

fanthemum     nearer  the  Sea,  where  we  hoped  to  find  fomething  that  might  recom- 

Creticum,Cluf,  r 

Hift.  335.  Penfe 


Defcription  of  the  Ifland  of  Candia.  2 1 

penfe  us  for  our  Difappointment  in  other  places.     And  indeed  we  began   Letter  I. 
to  cheer  up  at  fight  of  a  '  prickly  Acanthus,  which  we  had  never  feen  ^  Acamhus^ 
any  of,  but  in  the  Gardens  of  Europe ;  and  very  often  a  Man  is  as  much  ^'eatus,  c.b. 
pleas'd  with  finding  a  rare  Plant  in  its  natural  place  of  Growth,  as  to  light 
of  an  unknown  one. 

THIS  Place  is  a  Tra(5t  of  Ground  cover'd  with  the  downy  ■  Folium  '  Pol>'umGna- 

"    -  phaloides  Prof- 

of  the  famous  Alpinm,  Profeflor  of  Padua  ;  who  gave  a  Cut  of  it  fifty  peri  Alpini 
Years  ago,  as  a  Plant  different  from  that  which  Bauhinut,  the  celebrated 
Profeflbr  of  Bafil,  had  call'd  by  the  name  of  '  Gnaphalium  maritimuw.     I '  Gnaphalmm 
can  fafely  affirm,  there's  no  difference  at  all  between  theie  two  Plants,  a.  Pin.  263' 
Alpinus,  'tis  likely,  had  never  leen  the  Plant  of  Bauhinm,  tho  it  is  very 
common  in  Italy  on  the  Sea-fide.     But  to  return  to  the  Climate  of  C&- 
nea,  we  found  nothing  in  that  place  we  are  fpeaking  of,  except  the  prick- 
ly 4  Chicory  and  Thyme  of  Crete  ;  which  two  Plants  delight  in  Heath  *  cichorium 
and  Rocks.     I  was  rejoic'd  to  meet  here  with  the  5  Thyme  of  Crete, vin.  i26. 
which  fome  Years  before  I  had  obferv'd  growing  about  Seville  and  Car~  13hymus  ?*" 

o  o  pitatus,  qui 

mona  in  Andalufia.  However,  as  we  expedted  to  find  fbmething  more  D,°rcoridis»  c. 
curious  than  all  this,  our  Difoontent  return'd  at  every  ftep  we  took  :  for 
in  fine,  my  Lord,  we  went  to  Candia  purely  for  the  fake  of  fimpling,  upon 
the  Veracity  of  Pliny  and  Galen,  who  gave  the  Plants  of  this  Ifland  piece* 
dence  of  all  others  throughout  the  World.  We  ever  and  anon  look'd  at 
one  another  without  opening  our  mouths,  fhruggling  up  our  moulders, 
and  fighing  as  if  our  very  Hearts  would  break,  efpecially  as  we  follow'd" 
thofe  pretty  Rivulets  which  water  the  beauteous  Plain  of  Canea,  befet. 
with  Rufhes  and  Plants  fo  very  common,  that  we  would  not  have  vouch- 
fafed  them  a  Look  at  Paris ;  we  whofe  Imagination  was  then  full  of  Plants- 
with  filver  Leaves,  or  cover'd  with  fbme  rich  Down  as  fbft  as  Velvety 
and  who  fancy'd  that  Candia  could  produce  nothing  that  was  not  ex- 
traordinary ! 

WE  afterwards  met  with  what  made  us  amends.  The  Neighbour-* 
hood  of  Canea,  and  chiefly  thofe  high  Mountains  where  they  fetch  theis 
Snow  in  Summer,  are  the  mofl  fertile  of  the  whole  Ifland,  and  in- 
comparably more  to  be  valued  than  Mount  Idt,  or  the  Mountains.-  of 
Girapetra  :  thefe  of  Canea  not  only  afford  whatever  the  others  do,  but 
likewife  a  multitude  of  Rarities  not  to  be    found  elfewhere.     Theo- 

phrttjlttS)  . 


2  2  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant 

'  i  *  KivyJ  phraftus ',  Strabo,  Pliny,  and  Ptolomy  call'd  'em  the  white  Mountains,  on 
Thwphr.  Hiii.  account  of  their  being  perpetually  cover'd  with  Snow.  From  a  Paflage 
«^.  Ptaf.  in  8&k***  it  Should  feem  that  the  Mounts  *  Cadiftos  and  DiBymna  made 
lib.  3.  «p-«?.  part  of  thofe  Hills.  Whatever  }  Belonitu  fays  to  the  contrary,  "  Theo- 
strab.  Rer.  phrajltu  and  Pliny  with  juft  reafon  amrm'd  Cyprefs-Trees  to  grow  there 
A^Montes, '  naturally  amidft  the  Snow,  as  well  as  in  the  Valleys.  Belonins  did  not 
I i'"  s  «pN3a'".  »ive  himfelf  the  trouble  of  going  thither.  They  are  now  call'd  the 
9  soiin.  Poly-  Mountains  of  la  Sfacbia,  a  Village  of  the  fame  name,  which  is  difcern'd 

•obfer  iap  5.  ^rom  tne  t0P  °^  'em>  as  ^  ou  ^efcend  to  tne  Sea  Southward,  and  which  has 
4  Theophr.  &  perhaps  retain'd  that  of  one  of  the  antienteft  '  Towns  in  Crete,  the 
>  m  '  .  Saab.  Birth-place  of  the  famous  Epimentdes.  The  People  thereabouts  are  named 
Reran  GeoS.  Sfacbiots.  and  are  held  to  be  the  beft  Soldiers  of  that  Ifland,  and  the 

lib.  IO. 

mod:  dextrous  at  their  Bow.     The  Pyrrbick  Dance  is  ftill  in  ufe  among 
them,  as  will  appear  by  and  by. 

A  SEARCH  after  Plants  being  one  of  our  principal  BufmelTes,  it 
would  not  feem  improper  to  particularize  here  all  thofe  which  we  ob- 
ierv'd  about  Canea.     However,  fuch  matters  being  what  does  not  relifh 
with  every  body,  and  becaufe  they  would  not  only  fwell  this  Relation, 
but  utterly  break  the  Thred  of  it,  I  fancy  'twere  better  to  referve  this 
long  Detail  of  Plants  for  a  Work  by  itfelf;    and  only  here  to  give  a 
Defcription,  with  a  Sculpture,  of  feme  fuch  as  are  fmgular  and  not  known. 
'Tis  true,  diverfifying  the  Subject  is  pleafing  in  Relations  of  this  kind ; 
but  a  Man  mull  keep  within  certain  bounds,  which  can't  be  done  when 
once  he  undertakes  an  Enumeration  of  the  Plants  of  any  Country : 
Notice  mud:  be  taken  of  every  Individual,  tho  ever  fb  common,  that 
fo  the  moll  skilful  Botanifts  may  the  better  form  a  Judgment  of  the  Qua- 
lity of  each  Country.     For  example,  Candia  has  hardly  a  dozen  Plants 
peculiar  to  it  felf.     The  other  Plants  that  grow  there,  in  whatever  num- 
bers, are  alio  to  be  found  in  the  Iflands  of  the  Archipelago ;  nor  are  the 
greateft  part  of  'em  any  Rarity  in  Europe.     'Twould  be  wrong  to  fancy 
that  the  Levant  yields  nothing  but  extraordinary  Vegetables,  fince  in 
America  there   grow  Mallows,  Fern,  Nettles,  Pellitory  of  the  Wall,  as 
they  likewife  do  on  the  Coafts  of  the  Black  Sea,    among  the  fcarceft 
Plants. 

HERE 


/<V.  T 


Jizy.&j. 


_^_ 


Defer iption  of  the  IJland  of  Cand/a.  %  3 

HERE  follows  a  Defcription  of  one  of  the  moft  remarkable  Plants   Letter  I. 
about  Ctnei. 

ITS  Root  is  ligneous,  crooked,  a  foot  in  length,  reddifh,  inclining  STACHjsCre. 
to  brown,  furnilh'd  with  Fibres  not   ib  deep,  half  a  line  in  thicknefs,  inft.iuiHeib. 

1  86 

feven  or  eight  inches  long.  The  Stalks  are  near  two  foot  high,  iquare, 
two  or  three  lines  thick,  cover'd  with  a  white  velvety  Down ;  at  each 
Knot  two  Leaves,  three  inches  long,  an  inch  and  a  half  broad,  roundilTi 
at  their  Bafis  like  a  human  Ear,  lefTening  inlenfibly  to  a  ibrt  of  bluntifli 
Point.  Thefe  Leaves  feel  rough,  they  are  wrinkled,  full  of  Veins, 
grcenifh-white,  waved,  curPd,  moderately  notch'd  :  they  diminiih  con- 
fidcrably  from  the  middle  of  the  Stalk  towards  the  top,  and  are  not 
above  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  and  eight  or  nine  lines  broad  ;  towards 
the  Extremity  of  the  Plant  they  are  fcarce  half  an  inch  in  length.  After 
thefe  Leaves,  along  the  Stalk  and  Branches  grow  Flowers  difpos'd  in 
Rings,  pretty  dole  to  each  other.  Every  Flower  is  a  Tube,  half  an 
inch  long,  one  line  thick,  with  a  hole  towards  the  bottom,  whitifh, 
opening  into  two  Lips  of  a  Rofe-colour ;  the  upper  more  than  half  an 
inch  long,  guttering,  hairy  on  the  back,  obtufe,  and  as  it  were  cut 
Hoping  at  the  point :  the  nether  Lip  of  the  fame  length,  flanVd  into  three 
parts,  the  two  of  each  fide  very  finall,  and  the  middlemoft  four  lines 
long,  and  half  an  inch  broad.  The  Cup  is  another  Tube,  half  an  inch 
long,  white,  cotton-like,  widening  iuto  five  points,  purpurine,  hard,  and 
fharp-pointed :  they  inclofe  a  Piftiie  with  four  Embryos,  lurmounted  by 
a  Filament  gridelin,  forky,  attended  with  fome  Chieves  faften'd  in  their 
firil  Formation  to  the  innermoft  Edge  of  the  Tube,  or  Pipe  of  the 
Flower.  The  Embryos  afterwards  come  to  be  fo  many  Seeds  one  line  in 
length,  roundifh-back'd,  pointed  on  the  other  fide,  blackiih.  The 
Flower  has  no  Smell,  and  the  Leaves  without  any  notable  Savour. 

THE  propereft  places  for  herborizing  about  Canea,  are  Calepo,  St.  George ,  KaAwc* 
St.  Eleutherim,  a  Monaftery  a  mile  and  a  half  off,  where  fome  place  the  j~^f  £*~" 
Epifcopal  See  of  Cjdoma,   tho  there  are  no  Ruins  of  any  great  antiqui-  "A;;<*  uir,tc{+ 
ty  there.     According  to  StrabO)  CyJ.onin.  was  a  maritime  Town  ten  miles  Remm  Geog. 
from  Jpteron  :  now  Canea  is  exactly  that  diftance  from  P/ileocafiro,  which  k^aqniA. 
is  certainly  the  Town  of  After on,  as  we  fliall  hereafter  make  appear.     So  £ydohia. 
potent  a  City  as  C)domay  which  us'd  to  turn  the  Ballance  to  which  ever  strab;  ibid, 

fide 


24  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

fide  it  efpous'd,  in  the  Contefts  between  Gnojftes  and  Gortyna :  this  Cy- 

T.Liv.Hift.    donia,    I  fay,    which  fingly  withflood   the  Force  of  thofe  two  Cities 

link'd  together  to  deilroy  it,  mufl  have  had  a  good  Haven,  and  confe- 

quently  Inhabitants  ready  at  all  times  to  lay  Chains  acrofs  it,  and  hinder 

■  tcfctofa  $    their  Enemies  from  feizing  it.     Now  in  all  that  part  there  is  '  no  other 

s«&.pS£'  Haven  but  that  of  Canea,  or  that  of  la,  Suda.     Tho  la  Suda  feems  ftill  to 

in  voce  k?iitc.  confer  ve  fbme  Fragments  of  the  Name  of  Cydonia,  yet  it  is  built  in  an 

Ifland,  and  not  oppofite  to  the  Lacedemonian  Territories  in  the  Peloponne- 

'  Bibiiot. Hift.y^}  by  which  '  Diodoru-s  Siculus  and5  Strabo  flx'd  the  Situation  of  Cydo- 

'  Smb.  ibid.   ni&.     For  the  fame  reafon,  the  Ruins  of  that  Town  mufl  net  be  look'd 

for  above  Culata  at  the  bottom  of  la  Suda,  as  ibme  pretend  ;  much  leis  at 

Paleocajlro,  which  is  on  one  fide  of  la  Suda,  where  it  feems  Ptolemy  has 

•  Contra  cy-   plac'd  Cydonia.     In  fliort,  4  Pliny  pofitively   decides  the  Pofition  of  that 

&  duxBudroi.  Town,  fince  he  marks  it  as  over  againfl  three  fmall  Iflands,  which  doubt- 

Piin.Hiii.  Nat.  lefe     e  the  Ifle  of  Su  Qd        and  the  Rocks  or  shelves  of  Turluru. 

ho.  4.  cap. 12.  ' 

1  P<lufan_  De.  THE  City  of  Cydonia  was  befieg'd  to  no  purpofe  by  s  PbaUcus,  Prince 
fcliP^  G[xc-  of  the  Phoceans,  who  perifh'd  there  with  his  Troops :  being  hard  prefs'd 
Diod.  sic.  Bib-  by  "  Nothocrates,  ilie  lent  a  Deputation  to  Eumenes  King  of  Pergamus, 
«Poiyb  Legat.  w^°  caus'd  che  Siege  to  be  rais'd  by  one  of  his  Generals.  The  Conqueft 
79.  of  it  was  referv'd  for  7  Metellm,  to  whom  it  yielded  after  the  Defeat  of 

Roman,  lib. 3.  Lajlhenes  and  Panares.  s  In  the  Wars  of  Augujlus  and  Antony,  the  Cydo- 
«p.  7-  „ianj  declar'd  for  the  former,  and  after  the  Battel  of  Atfium  they  re- 

8  DionCnffius,  ,  „  ,         ^  1,11  1 

lib.  51.  ceiv  d  Marks  of  his  Gratitude.     Nothing  does  more  honour  to  Cydoniay 

than  the  ftriking  of  Medals,  with  a  proper  Legend  relating  to  the  State 

of  that  Place,  and  with  the  Heads  of  Augujlus,  Tiberius,  Claudius,  Nero 

Jritellius,  Vefpafian,  Domitian,  Adrian,  and  Antoninus  Pius. 

'  Mavctnetrnf      THE  1 2th  of  May  we  went  and  lay  at  the  Convent  of  the  '  Trinity, 

JmTedJks.  half  a  day,§  journey   from  Cafje^  juft  by  Cape  Melier.     Formerly  this 

>,is  novo  fro-  Convent  had  '"  a  hundred  Monks  :  at  prefent  there  are  not  fifty,  tho 'tis 

Itlmht  to  be  the  befl  Monaftery  of  the  Ifland,  except  that  of  Arcadi.  Each  Monk 
"£f/j  Sf°Ai"»'  Pays  ^eveu  Crowns  to  the  "  Capitation-Tax.     The  "  Superior  made  us 

from  y&kU  very  welcome,  according  to  the  Cuftom  of  the  Oriental  Chriftians,  to 

jtjw'.old.  lodge  the  Pranks  in  Monafleries.     It  cofts  a  Man  more  when  he  goes 

••  Cantcb,  or  awaV)  than  was  expended  on  him  while  he  ftaid:  but  then  he  has  the 

**".  conlolation  of  being  among  Chriftians.     The  Revenues  of  this  Convent 

'-' H^^-  confift 


l/.V.J-. 


-Sy-  <fS- 


ft/'r/iv  Trtr/r'ra,  /ruzzftniz., 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Candia.  25 

confift  in  Oil,  Wine,  Wheat,  Oats,  Honey,  Wax,  Cattel,  Cheefe,  Milk.  Letter  I. 
Sometimes  the  Crop  of  Olives  is  To  great,  that  the  Monks  not  being  -^^^^^ 
fufficient  to  get  it  in,  are  forc'd  to  give  half  the  Fruits  on  the  ground  for 
gathering  the  other  half:  they  give  Mony  for  beating  down  luch  as  are 
on  the  Trees  ;  but  with  their  Poles  they  dcftroy  half  the  young  Shoots 
laden  with  Buds  and  BloiToms.  They  never  prune  or  lop  thole  Trees, 
nor  do  they  ever  cultivate  the  Earth  about  'em,  but  only  to  fow  fome 
Seeds  in  it. 

HERE  I  might  properly  enough  mention  the  Rule  which  thefe 
Monks  follow  ;  but  your  Lordfhip  will  give  me  leave  to  go  on  with  the 
Relation  of  our  Walk,  and  to  keep  againfl  another  time  what  Knowledge 
I  have  gain'd  of  the  prefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church.  We  took  notice 
of  many  rare  Plants  growing  about  this  Monaftery,  among  which  is  a 
fort  of  '  Orchis  with  a  Flower  of  a  furprizing  Beauty.  'Orchis 

THE  Root  confifts  of  two  Knobs,  white,  flefliy,  almoft  oval,  about  m3>  flore  Pai- 
fifteen  lines  long,  full  of  Juice,  more  hairy  than  are  the  Knobs  of  thofe  formafcforoi 
of  this  kind,  whofc  Fibres  only  iflue  from  the  lower  part  of  the  Trunk. Inft,ReiHerb- 
The  Trunk  or  Stalk  we  are  fpeaking  of,  is  about  a  foot  high,  four  lines 
thick,  adorn'd  from  the  beginning  like  the  Sheath  of  a  Knife,  with  two 
or  three  Leaves  of  about  three  inches  long,  and  near  an  inch  and  a  half 
broad,  veined,  light  green,  much  imaller  along  the  Stalk,  elpecially  in 
thole  places  where  they  are  fucceeded  by  Flowers.     The  CoirF,  or  upper 
part  of  thefe  Flowers,  confifts  of  five  Leaves,  three  great  and  two  fmall ; 
the  great  are  fix  or  feven  lines  in  length,  three  or  four  in  breadth,  warp- 
ing, fharp-pointed,    rofe-colour'd,  ftreak'd  with  green  on  the  back :  the 
two  fmall  Leaves  are  plac'd  alternately  among  the  great ;  they  are  hardly 
three  lines  long,  and  a  line  in  breadth.     The  Under-leaf  of  this  Flower, 
which  is  larger  and  fairer  than  any  of  the  reft,  is  about  fifteen  lines  long, 
and  begins  in  form  of  a  Pidgeon's  Breaft,  yellowifh  green,  the  Head 
inclining  to  green ;  the  reft  of  the  Leaf  is  a  fort  of  a  Bifhop's  Cope, 
cut  into  three  parts,    of  which    the    middlemoft  is   the  leaft,  mode- 
rately  indented  and    fomewhat  floping  ;   the  other   two    parts  more 
picked.     The  Cope  is  of  a  dun  colour,  fhagg'd  like  Velvet,  embellifh'd 
with  a  fort  of  a  purple  and  brilliant,  like  the  back  of  a  Bee ;    two 
fharp  Eminences,  greenifh-yeliow  and  nappy,  rifing  a  little  beneath,  and 
Vol.  I.  E  on 


26  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

on  one  fide  of  the  Pidgeon's  Breaft,  which  makes  part  of  an  oblong 
Cartouche,  the  lower  part  whereof  is  a  tawny  yellow,  fet  off  with  yel- 
lowifh  Fleurons,  terminating  like  an  Anchor.  The  Tail  of  this  Flower 
is  about  an  inch  long,  two  lines  thick,  and  fbmewhat  crooked  •  this  in 
time  becomes  Fruit :  we  faw  it  not  in  its  maturity. 

FROM  the  Convent  of  the  Trinity  we  went  and  lay  at  that  of 

Mwadti  n  St.  John,  at  the  entrance  of  Cape  Metier,  in  a  little  Plain  which  has  an 
eafy  Defcent  all  the  way  to  the  point  of  the  Cape.  On  the  way  there's 
another  Monaftery  of  the  lame  name,  which  has  Co  often  been  rifled  by 
the  Corfairs,  that  they  let  it  run  to  ruin  ;  tho  it  was  a  handlbme  Struc- 
ture, and  fituated  in  an  agreeable  Solitude  :  We  enter  into  it  down  a  De- 
fcent of  1 1 5  Steps  cut  in  the  Rock,  among  terrible  Precipices,  bedeck'd 

'Origanum  wjth  that  fine  '  Dittany,  of  which  the  Antients  report  fb  manv  Mira- 

Creticum  lati-  _        *        ,         . .  L  J 

fbiiuiiyomen-  cles :  here  it  flouriihes  almolt  all  the  Year,  as  it  does  at  Paris  in  the 
IwCwi-  King's  Garden.  Cmdia  was  the  only  place  we  faw  it  in ;'  and  had  '  Dio- 
ciis    inft.Rei  rcor^es  been    there  himfelf,   he  would  not  have  faid,  it  neither  bears 

iievb,  199.       J 

*  Diofc.  iib.3.  Flowers  nor  Seeds.  Cape  Metier  is  one  of  the  belt  places  of  the  whole 
cap.  36.  ifland  for  fimpling :  there  it  was  we  firft  faw  that  noble  Plant,  which 
3  Ebenus     Procerus  Jlpinus  calls  the  *  Ebony  of  Crete,  tho  it  has  not  any  refem- 

Cretica  P.  Alp,  ,  .  .  „. 

Exot.  278.     blance  to  the  true  Ebony. 

S^Sfci  CAPE  Metier,  (to  the  Eaft whereof,  and  under  covert,  lies  the  Ifle 
ticajfmtefcens,  ancj  Xown  of  I  a  Suda,  and  which  the  Venetians  are  in  pofTefTion  of;)  is 
fpicato,  purpu-  call'd-G^o  Maleca :  but  what  Name  the  Antients  call'd  it  by,  is  not  cer- 
BieynTiSU.  tainly  known.      If  we  follow  4  Ptolemy  s  Account  of  the  remarkable 

*  Geog.  iib.3.  Places  of  Crete,  perambulating  the  Northern  Coaft  from  the  Eaft  to  the 
"P.  l7.         Weftj  ^g  Guiph  0f  iA  Suda,  the  beft  and  only  Bay  of  the  Ifland,  mould 

*  'a^*^a~<  feem  to  be  that  of  s  Amphimalla  ;  fince  he  names  it  immediately  after 
Ibid™'  Retimo.  What  occafion  had  that  Author  to  fpeak  of  a  crooked  winding 
'Aff^A">"  Road  between  Ret imo  and  la  Punt  a  de  Drepano,  where  there  is  no  fhelter 
**■  stephan.  for  Shipping;  ?     Therefore  the  Cape  Metier  muft  be  the  Cape  Drepanum 

Amphimalla.  l  l         r  .  1  1         n  1      /-     .  1    . 

plin.Hift.Nat.  of  Ptolemy,  fince  it  is  beyond  and  weltward  of  the  Gulph  of  Amphimalla ; 

tb.4.  cap.12.  wYnch  with  good  reafon  is  fuppos'd  to  be  that  of  la  Suda.  But  then  again 
here's  another  difficulty ;  they  now  call  la  Punt  a  de  Drepano  another  Cape 
fituated  eaftward  of  the  Gulph  of  la  Suda,  in  the  way  to  Retimo :  And 
it  is  from  the  Refemblance  of  the  Names  Drepanum  and  la  Punta  de  Dre- 

fanOy 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Candia. 

pano,  that  all  this  Perplexity  arifes.  Either  Ttolemy  was  mif-inform'd,  or 
that  PafTage  in  him  is  corrupted,  or  the  People  of  the  Country  have 
fince  confounded  the  old  Names.  If  we  chufe  Ptolemy's  Defcription  be- 
fore that  of  Strabo,  the  Road  of  Retimo  will  be  that  of  Amphimalla  ;  the 
Punt  a  de  Drepano,  Cape  Drepanum  ;  Paleocajlro,  which  is  over  againft 
U  Suda  will  be  the  Town  of  Cydonia  :  Cape  Melier  muft  be  taken  for 
Cape  Cyamum;  Cape  Spado,  for  Pfacum,  and  that  of  Grabufes  for  Coryc us -. 
But  would  it  not  be  better  to  fuppofe  that  Ptolemy  means  the  Gulph  of 
U  Suda,  by  the  Name  of  Amphimalla,  than  to  arraign  him  of  forgetting 
the  fineft  Bay  of  the  Ifland,  to  take  notice  of  an  unfecure  open  Road  ? 
■  Pliny's  Account  of  the  Towns  of  that  Coaft,  affords  us  no  light :  he  'Hift,Nat.ib. 
names  them  without  exa&nefs,  tho  he  feems  to  aim  at  Method,  by  run- 
ning a  Courfe  from  Weft  to  Eaft.  To  return  to  Cape  Metier,  or  Maleca, 
as  the  Greeks  and  Italians  pronounce  it ;  if  we  take  Amphimalla  for  la  Suda, 
the  word  Maleca  may  be  an  Abridgment  of  Amphimalla,  as  the  Name  of 
the  City  of  Jix  is  certainly  the  Skeleton  of  Aqu&fexti&.  Firfl  they  calt. 
away  Ampbi,  as  fuperfluous  ;  then  of  Malta  they  made  Maleca  or  Meleca ; 
and  of  Meleca,  Melier. 

WE  return'd  to  Canea  to  houfe  our  Harveft,  and  on  the  24th  of  May 
we  fet  out  for  Retimo.  We  lay  at  Stilo,  a  Village  ten  miles  from  Canea : 
The  2  5th  we  dined  at  Almyron,  ten  miles  fiom  Stilo.  Almyron  is  a  fmall 
Fort,  with  four  forry  Baftions :  jufl  by  it,  is  a  Houfe  of  Entertainment, 
fuch  as  it  is,  with  only  two  large  Cufhions,  Water,  and  Coffee ;  fb  that 
if  we  had  not  brought  our  Provifion  along  with  us,  we  might  have 
ftarv'd.  Some  paces  from  this  Houfe  rife  two  curious  Springs  of  Water, 
one  fweet,  the  other  fait,  from  whence  comes  theN&me  of  Almyron.  We  "bxpu&f,  fal- 
walk'd  fbme  fpace  on  the  edse  of  the  Coaft,  till  we  came  to  a  fmall  .f;.     , 

1  Ifia.Theop. 

River  :  after  which,  for  four  miles  or  more,  the  Way  is  perfectly  fright-  Hift.  Plant. 
ful,  cut  through  a  Rock  till  we  come  within  fight  of  Retimo.     This  Road  x^'/Aiw-''* 
is  paved,  as  one  may  fay,  with  the  Plant  call'd  a  Ixia  by  Theophrajlus,  ^^\flofc' 
and  White  Chamdeon  by  his  Interpreters,  as  likewife  by  Diofcorides.     I  CnicnsCarJinse 
have  marfhaPd  it  under  the  Tribe  of  Cnicus,  on  account  of  the  Structure  gUmmifer,acu- 
of  its  Flower  and  Fruit.     Columna  has  given  an  excellent  Sculpture  of  it :  p"pi,reo? Co- 
that  of  Carduus  pinea  Theophrajli  by  Profperus  Alpinus  reprefents  it  when  «';.l  n'VRei 
it  is  run  up  to  Seed,  and  the  Leaves  fcorch'd  by  the  Sun.     Theot>hra(lus  column*  part 

-  J  l       /  1.  Profp.Alp. 

E  2  lays,  exm.  12-t. 


28  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

lays,  this  Plant  yields  a  Gum  in  Crete :  the  Inhabitants  chew  it,  as  they 

do  Maftick  of  Sew,  not  only  to  make  'em  lpit,  but  to  fweeten  their 

Breath.     This  Plant  is  very  common  in  the  Ifles  of  the  Arches,  in  Greece, 

Italy,  Portugal. 

Retimo,  v'i-      RET  I  MO  is  the  third  Place  of  the  Country  :  the  Turks  took  it  in 

GTO*'iibt0h   ^47>  and  fince  that  time  it  has  been  govern'd  by  a  Bafhaw,  under  the 

cap.  17.         Viceroy  of  Canea.     Retimo  extends  alone  the  Haven,  and  look'd  more 

Rithymna,  J  ■  n 

PHn.Hift.Nat.  gay  and  ferene  than  Canea,  tho  it  is  lefs  in  compafs  ;  and  has  Walls  fitter 
>.4.  cap.12.  ro  indole  a  Park  for  Deer,  than  to  keep  out  an  Enemy.  The  Citadel 
was  built  for  the  Security  of  the  Haven :  it  Hands  on  a  lharp  Rock, 
ftretching  into  the  Sea,  and  would  be  of  great  ftrength,  were  it  not  com- 
manded by  a  flat  Rock  which  is  on  the  road  to  Almyron.  This  Citadel 
commands  a  Fort  they  have  built  at  the  other  end  of  the  Town,  to 
guard  the  Haven.  This  Fort  is  at  prefent  ruinous,  and  the  Haven 
utterly  neglected:  Ships  of  War  ufed  formerly  to  be  laid  up  here 
below  the  Citadel :  at  prefent  there  is  Icarcely  Depth  enough  for  fmall 
Craft. 

WHILE  the  Turks  were  befieging  Famagoufta  in  the  Ifle  of  Cyprus, 
Ali  Bafhaw,  their  Admiral,  would  needs  attempt  an  Invafion  of  Candia  : 

Leunci.  Suppi.  but  every  Place  was  fb  well  provided,  that  none  but  Retimo  was  fack'd  by 
Vlus-Ali,  General  of  the  Barbary  Squadron. 

THE  Champain  of  Retimo  is  all  Rock  on  the  Weft  fide:  the  Road 
towards  Candia  is  very  delightful.  All  along  the  Shore  there  is  nothing 
to  be  feeii  but  Gardens :  Cherries  are  earlier  here,  than  in  any  part  of 
the  Ifland.  All  their  Fruit  is  better  tailed  :  their  Silk,  Wool,  Honey,. 
Wax,  Ladanum,  Oils,  &c.  are  prefer'd  to  all  others.  The  Water  that 
lupplies  this  Town,  comes  gufhing  out  of  a  narrow  Valley,  a  quarter 
of  a  League  from  the  Town  foutherly :  they  have  cut  a  Channel,  to 
bring  it  to  Retimo,  but  they  lofe  one  half  of  it  by  the  way.  On  the 
Road  leading  to  the  Valley,  there  is  a  handfbme  Mofque ;  in  the  Court- 

•  Caravan-      yarc}  0f  w    a  certain  Turk  has  founded  '  a  Houfe  of  Reception,  where 

Sarai,  KajC*-  ...  „ 

C<*'?nf, « Houfe  Travellers,  that  arrive  after  the  Gates  of  the  Town  are  Ihut,  or  who 
dafimf^ca-  defign  to  fet  out  before  they  are  open'd,  may  lodge  and  eat  for  nothing. 
ravam.         TJiis   Houfe    is  well  look'd  to  :   they  raife   here   a   beautiful  fort   of 

Calves'* 


J572- 


7Z6Z. 


2kif.ii.<?. 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Candia.  29 

'  Cakes-Foot,  which  has  been  taken  by  mod  Authors  for  the  Coloeafia  of  Letter  F. 
the  Antients  :  the  Natives  eat  it  in  their  Broth.  ■  Amm  mnxi. 

THE  Malmfy  Wine  of  Retimo  was  in  great  efteem  when  the  JW- SJJ^jgj 
tuns  held  the  Ifland.     '  Belo/iius  reports,  that  they  ufed  to  boil  this  Li-  vjg&  Coloca- 
quor  in  large  Kettles,  along  the  Seafide.     Such  little  quantities  are  made  Pin.  i93'.  ' 
now,  that  we  could  not  get  a  drop  for  a  tafle,  tho  we  lodg'd  at  the  * obferv-  lib. 
French  Viceconlul's,  Doctor  Patelaro  ;  where  we  lived  in  Clover,  as  the 
Saying  is.     He  is  a  fine  old  Gentleman,  has  Wit  at  will,  and  crowns 
Converfation  with  the  Charms  of  that  Greek  Eloquence,  which  is  the 
Soul  of  Good-Fellowfhip.     He  was  very  young  when  the  Turks  made 
themfclves  mailers  of  Cane*  :  his  Mother  was  carry'd  away  to  Confian- 
tinop/e,  and  there  prefented,    for  a  beautiful  Slave,  to  Sultan  Ibrahim, 
who  beflow'd  her  on  the  Prime  Vifier.     This  latter  had  one  Male  Child 
by  her,  who  was  kill'd  at  the  laft  Siege  of  Vienna,  where  he  was  a  Ge- 
neral Officer. 

THIS  Viceconful  is  of  the  Greek  Communion.  He  was  brought 
up  according  to  the  Faihion  there ;  but  his  Parents  difcovering  more  of 
a  Genius  in  him  than  in  Lads  of  his.  Age,  fent  him  to  Padua  to  ftudy 
Law,  and  take  his  Degrees  there.  Being  return'd  to  Candia,  he  fet  out 
for  Conftantinople  to  fee  his  Mother,  who  was  grown  vaflly  rich  ;  he 
made  himfelf  known  to  her  by  a  Wart  behind  his  Ear :  This  Wart,  which 
he  took  care  to  ihew  us,  is  crovvn'd  with  a  blackifli  Spot,  not  unlike  a 
Half- Moon  in  form.  She  prefently  remember'd  this  Mark,  and  would 
fain  have  made  ufe  of  it  as  an  Argument  that  he  was  ordain'd  to  be  a 
Mujfulman;  which  to  bring  about,  no  Sollicitations  were  wanting:  he 
was  ply'd  night  and  day  with  'em ;  they  went  fo  far,  as  to  get  him  to 
accept  of  Lands  to  a  great  value  in  Wallachia.     But  all  this  won  nothing  ....    ,  . 

r  °  o  '  Atnplex  lati- 

upon  him  ;  he  foon  refign'd  the  Lands,  and  declared  he  would  die  in  the  folia>  five  Ha~ 

Religion  of  his  Forefathers.     He  leads  an  agreeable  Life,  under  the  Pro-  fil^Morjijft. 

te&ion  of  France.  ?xon-  Part  2° 

607.  - 

THE  Hedges  which  run  along  the  Shore  from  Retimo,  confifl  of  no-  "aa/(w,  Diofc, 
thing  but  that  fore  of  '  Arroche,  which  was  known  to  the  Antients  by  H«ba"AA/fw* 
the  name  of  Hdimus.    Solinus  fancyM  it  to  be  peculiar  to  the  Ifle  of  SrfkdiSiS 
Crete;  but  I  met  with  a  great  deal  cf  it  in  Spain,  mJndalufia,  and  in-Jj?1""'^ 
the  Kingdom  of  Granada,  &  hsec  Cretka 

^-,TT       eft.  Solin.  Po- 
i  <lk  !:l.:ft.  C.1JMI. 


30  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

THE  26th  of  May  we  din'd  under  a  fair  Plane-Tree,  by  a  running 
Spring,  ten  miles  from  Retima,.  on  the  way  to  Candia :  this  Stream,  which 
iffues  from  the  Hollow  of  a  Rock,  would  turn  many  Mills.  Here- 
abouts we  took  notice  of  fome  very  fine  Plants ;  above  all,  an  odd  fort 

■  rhiomisCrc-  of  a  ,  pyiom;s    wnich  we  faw  not  in  the  other  Iflands  of  the  ArchppeUaa. 

tica,  fruticol.i,  '  1       6 

folio  fubicnm-  That  night  we  took  up  our  Quarters  at  Daphnedes7  a  large  Tcwn,  whole 
corol.  Jnft.  '  Accefs  is  a  fort  of  Ladder-like  Footing  cut  in  the  Rock,  very  dangerous 
RuHerb.io.  for  Horfes  to  afcend:  but  our  Guides,  afharn'd  for  us,  put  on  oriskly, 
and  made  their  Palfrys  mount  the  Stair-cafe  with  an  aftoniihiog  roldnefs. 
We  folio w'd,  and  as  it  happen'd  came  off  with  flying  Colours.,  as  well 
as  they.  We  were  conducted  to  a  Papas,  who  was  the  chief  of  the 
Town :  here  we  refrefh'd  our  felves,  to  our  hearts  defire.  The  Town  is 
encompafs'd  with  low  eafy  Hills,  of  a  charming  Verdure  :  the  Olive- 
Trees  and  Vines  afford  a  delightful  Proipe#,  amongft  little  Woods  of 
Mulberry  and  Fig-Trees. 

THE  27th  of  May  we  travel'd  but  feventeen  miles,  and  ftopt  at 
Damajia,  another  Town,  the  Champain  whereof  look'd  as  if  it  would 
afford  us  matter  for  Simpling ;  but  we  were  miferably  difappointed.  Next 
day,  through  a  very  rugged  barren  Country,  we  arriv'd  at  Candia,  eigh- 
teen miles  from  Damajia.  I  do  my  ielf  the  honour,  my  Lord,  to  fend 
you  the  Profil  of  this  famous  Place,  as  it  appears  towards  the  Road 
of  Retimo. 
Candia.  C  AND  I A  is  the  Carcafs  of  a  large  City,  well-peopled  in  the  time 
of  the  Penetrans,  flourifhing  in  Trade,  and  very  ftrong :  at  prefent  it  is 

■  Bazar.         iittie  better  than  a  Defart,  all  but  the  3  Market-place   and  thereabouts 

where  the  principal  Inhabitants  dwell  ;  the  reft  is  hardly  any  thing  but 

Rubbifli,  ever  fince  the  lafl  Siege,  which  was  one  of  the  moft  confidera- 

3  chardm'j     ble  that  has  been  undertaken  in  our  memory.     We  are  told  by  '  M.  Cbar- 

oya"'  din,  that  in  the  Reprefentation  prefented  to  the  Divan  by  the  High  Trea- 

furer  of  the   Empire,    concerning   the  extraordinary  Expences  for  the 

three  lafl:  Years  of  the  Siege  of  Candia,  there  is  mention  made  of  700,000 

Crowns,  given  as  Rewards  to  fuch  Deferters  who  turn'd  Turks,  and  to 

the  Soldiers  who   had  diftinguifh'd    themfelves  ;    and  to  fuch  as  had 

«  j  Gold  coin,  brought  in  Heads  of  Chriflians,  for  which  they  were  allow'd  a  *  Sequin 

crowm  and  *  per  Head.     This  Reprefentation  fets  forth,  that  100,000  Cannon-Bail  had 

half,  , 

been 


/:>/.z. 


Ta.7.$o . 


3 


Defcription  of  the  Ijland  of  Candia.  g  r 

been  fir'd  againft  the  place  ;  that  feven  Balhaws  had  laid  their  Bones  Letter  I. 
there,  as  aho  fourfcore  principal  Officers,  10,400  Janizaries,  befides  (-*v*-' 
other  Militia. 

THE  Port  of  Candia  is  fit  for  nothing  but  Boats :  Ships  of  Burden 
keep  under  the  Ifle  of  Dw,  almoft  directly  fituated  againft  the  Town 
North-Eaft,  and  which  the  Franks  nonienfkally  call  '  Standia.     It  is  plain  ■  'e«  tW 
to  be  feen,  that  the  Saracens  built  Candia  on  the  Ruins  of  the  ancient 
City  of  Heraclea.     '  Strabo  fupplies  us  with  a  demonftrative  Proof  of  this, '  Rer.  Geog. 
in  defcribing  the  Ifle  of  5  Thera,  which  he  fays  anfwers  to  the  Ifle  of ,  ^nt."En'oi 
Dia ;  and  this  Iflaud,  according  to  the  fame  Author,   is  fituated  over  cr  San">lin. 
againft  Heraclea,  a  Sea-Port  belonging  to  the  Gnojjims. 

THE  Town  of  Candia  is  indifputably  the  Candace  of  the  Saracens. 
It  is  a  Remark  of  Scylitz.es,  that  in  the  Language  of  thefe  People,  *  Chan- 4  Xw-c&g. 
dax  fignifies  an  Intrenchment  :  and  lure  enough  'twas  there  where  the  '} ' 
Saracens  were  advis'd  by  a  Greek  Monk  to  intrench  themfelves,  in  the  time 
of  the  Emperor  Michael  the  Stammerer.     It  feems  more  natural  to  deduce 
the  Name  of  Candia  from  Chandax,  than  from  Candida,  as  !  Morofini  calls  '  Hift.  Vener, 
it.     Pi  net  as,  in  his  Tranflation  of  Pliny,  unwarrantably  takes  Mirabeau-  ' 
for  Heraclea.     According  to  "  Strabo,  Heraclea  was  oppofire  to  Dia ;  and  '  'h^kasw 
according  to  Ptolemy,   hard  by  Cape  Salomon.     We  muft  abide  by  the 
Decifion  of  Strabo,    who  was  far  better  inform'd  of  the  Pofkion  of 
Towns  than  Ptolemy  was. 

THEY  who  believe  Candia  to  be  the  antient  Town  of  Matium  re- 
built by  the  S.tracens,  are  perhaps  fomewhat  towards  the  Truth ;  fuppo- 
fing  that  in  the  Specification  7  Pliny  gives  of  the  Iflands  on  the  Coaft  of »  Hift.  Nat. 
Crete,  we  ought  to  read  (and  it  is  not  at  all  unlikely)  Dia  infteadof  Via  llb-4-  "F' I:> 
or  Cia,  as  they  ftand  in  the  Editions  of  Dalechamp  and  Gronovius.  In 
this  cafe  Heraclea  and  Matium  would  be  perhaps  one  and  the  fame  Town, 
bearing  different  names  at  different  times.  It  is  to  be  obferv'd,  that  Strabo 
and  Ptolemy  make  no  mention  of  Matium,  and  Pliny  writes  thefe  two 
Names  all  of  a  piece  :  peradventure  it  muft  be  read  Matium  Heraclcu, 
without  a  Comma  between ;  as  who  fhould  fay,  Matium  late  Heraclea. 
It  may  be  likewife,  that  Matium  and  Heraclea  were  two  feveral  Towns 
adjoining  clofe  to  each  other,  and  confequently  both  oppofite  to  the 
Ifland  of  Dia :   for  this  Ifland,  which  is  North-Eaft  of  Candia,  might 

make 


g2  ^  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

make  a  Triangle  equilateral  with  the  two  Towns  in  queftion  ;  (b  that 
Strabo  and  Pliny  were  in  the  right,  to  defignate  their  Pofition  by  that  of 
Dia.  Confidering  how  pofitive  Strabo  is,  that  Heraclea  was  the  Sea  Port 
of  the  Gnoffians,  the  powerfulleft  People  of  Crete,  there's  no  doubt  but 
Candid,  the  only  confiderable  Sea-Port  in  all  thofe  parts,  was  built  on  the 
Ruins  of  Heraclea.  According  to  this  Conjecture,  the  Town  of  Maiium 
ihould  be  more  to  the  Eaft. 

T  H  O  the  Town  of  Candia  be  at  prefent  difregarded,  yet  its  Walls 
are  good  Walls,  and  well  terraced :  this  was  done  by  the  Venetians,  for 
the  Turks  have  hardly  repair'd  the  Breaches  of  the  laft  Siege.  There  are 
computed  to  be  in  this  Town  about  800  Greeks  paying  Capitation:  their 
Archbiihop  is  Metropolitan  of  the  whole  Kingdom.  The  Jews  are  about 
1000  in  all.  As  for  Armenians,  they  have  but  one  Church  here,  and 
fcarce  exceed  200  in  number.  Of  French  there  are  no  more  than 
three  or  four  Families,  a  Viceconful,  and  two  Capuchins,  who  have 
purchas'd  a  very  pretty  Houle  near  the  Sea.  The  reft  of  the  Inhabitants 
of  this  Town  are  all  Turks,  diftinguifh'd  according  to  the  following 
Mufter-Roll ;  which  will  ferve  to  give  an  Idea  of  thofe  Troops  that  are  in 
Places  of  War  among  the  Turks. 

JANIZ^ARIES  of  the  Port,  cali'd  Capicoulou,  ioco;  in  ten  Com- 
panies of  a  hundred  Men  each. 

T. A  MA  CH  CAPICOVLOV,  or  Soldiers  detach'd  from  feveral  Com- 
panies, 1 500  Men ;  exempted  from  ordinary  Duty. 

TERLI-COVLI,  or  Janizaries  of  the  Country,  2500;  in  twenty 
eight  Companies. 

SPA  HIS,  or  Horfe  of  the  Country,  1400  Men;  divided  into  two 
Regiments,  of  nine  Companies  each. 

AZ^APS,  another  fort  of  Country-Cavalry,  in  two  Regiments  of  700 
Men  each. 

DISDARLI,  Militia  of  the  Lieutenant  of  the  Cattle  ;  a  Regiment 
of  400  Men,  in  fixteen  Companies. 

TOPTCHIS  and  Gebegis,  that  is,  Canoneers  and  others  belonging  to 
the  Ordnance;  two  Regiments  of  500  Men  each,  arm'd  with  Sabre, 
Half-pike,  and  Coat  of  Mail. 

SOV- 


Defcription  of  the  TJland  of  Candia.  33 

SOVCOVLELIS,  that  is,  Troops  appointed  for  the  Guard  of  the  Letter  I. 
great  and  little  Fort  of  the  Sea,  400  Men ;  350  for  the  great  Fort,  and  ^f^f^J 
50  for  the  little  Fort. 

FOR  the  other  Forts  of  the  Town,  1 000  Men. 

THESE  ought  to  be  the  Troops  in  Candia,  according  to  the  Repre- 
fentation  communicated  by  their  Paymafter  to  our  Viceconful.  There's 
good  reafon  to  believe  that  none  of  thele  Bodies  were  compleat  at  the 
time  the  Venetians  befieg'd  Canea,  fince  in  the  whole  Ifland  they  could 
not  raife  above  4000  Men  to  relieve  it ;  and  yet  they  left  none  but  In- 
valids in  Candia  and  at  Retimo. 

THE  Country  about  Candia  confifls  of  fpacious  fruitful  Plains,  en- 
rich'd  with  all  forts  of  Grain.     It  is  prohibited  to  export  Wheat  out  of 
the  Ifland,  without  the  '  Viceroy's  leave.     In  1700,  the  Viceroy  was '  Begierbey. 
Hal)  Bafhaw,  that  voluptuous  Minifter,  who  continu'd  Prime  Vifier  but 
nine  months  in  the  laft  War :  his  Ingenuity  fav'd  his  Life.     Mahomet  IV. 
upbraiding  him  with  being  too  good  a  Man,  the  Vifier  confefs'd  it,  and 
pray'd  his  Highnefs  to  eafe  him  of  that  heavy  Burden,  which  was  im- 
mediately done.     Some  Years  after  this,  he  was  appointed  Viceroy  of 
Candia,  where  he  was  fore  troubled  with  a  Diflemper  which   can't  be 
cur'd  without  the   help  of  Mercury.     The  Greeks  being  unacquainted 
with  this  Remedy,    intreated  our  AmbaiTador,  the  Marquifs  de  Ferriol, 
who  on  his  way  to  Conftantinople  put  in  at  Candia,  to  lend  him  Ibme 
skilful  Man  to  doctor  him.     The  AmbaiTador  recommended  a  certain 
Irifb  Surgeon  he  had  on  board,  and  who  had  ferv'd  a  long  time  in  the 
Troops  of  France.     This  Surgeon,  after  having  examin'd  into  the  Vice- 
roy's lllnefs,  very  wifely  put  him  into  the  Powdering-Tub  ;  but  in  the 
heighth  of  the  Salivation,  the  Great  Man  thinking  himfelf  in  danger  of 
Death,  call'd  together  his  Council,  to  advife  what  to  do  with  this  fame 
Surgeon  ;  raid  was  the  firft.  that  fentene'd  him  to  have  a  hundred  Bafti- 
nadocs :  the  Council,  wifer  than  he,  were  of  opinion  the  Surgeon,  fince 
he  had  made  a  beginning,  ought  to  go  on  to  the  end.     In  fine,  the  Inflam- 
mation of  his  Throat  and  other  parts  went  off,  and  the  fick  Man  per- 
fectly recovciM.     Upon  this,  the  biggelt  Lords  of  the  Ifland  would  needs 
try   this  Operator's  Art,  one  after  another ;  infomuch  that  Teagae  was 
[  atoiofl  tired  out  of  his  Life  in  'nointing  the  Muffulnta/ii.    When  we  were 


Vol.  I.  F 


in 


34 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

in  Candia,  the  Viceroy  was  bufy'd  in  creeping  a  Mofque  :  for  which  pur- 
pofe  all  the  Greeks  were  fetch'd  in  from  the  adjoining  Villages,  with 
their  Tools  and  Infhuments  :  like  a  hackney  Horfe,  they  had  com- 
monly more  Whipcord  beflow'd  upon  'em  than  Corn.  It  mufl  however 
be  confefs'd,  that  fometimes  to  comfort  'em  up  when  they  were  hard 
wrought,  they  would  give  'em  a  Sup  or  two  of  Wine  •  which  the  Vice- 
roy's Officers  would,  without  any  Ceremony,  fetch  out  of  the  Vice- 
conful's  and  French  Merchants  Cellars. 

THE  generality  of  the  Bafhaws  are  rapacious,  and  in  regard  they  buy 
their  Places  at  Conjlantinople,  where  every  thing  goes  by  Auction,  they 
fpare  nothing  to  lick  themfelves  whole.  He  of  Canea  having,  at  entring 
on  his  Government,  receiv'd  from  our  Factory  among  other  Prefents  a  Veil 
of  rich  Brocade,  he  fent  to  ask  fuch  another ;  and  wonder'd  that  French  Peo- 
ple, who  are  noted  for  Good  Breeding  and  Polite  Manners,  fhould  occafion 
a  Diforder  in  his  Family :  adding,  that  the  Conful  fhould  have  known  he 
had  a  couple  of  Wives,  and  confequently  could  not  give  the  Vefl:  to 
one,  without  difobliging  the  other.  This  Demand  being  five  or  fix  times 
repeated,  the  Conful  fent  anfwer  there  were  none  of  thofe  Stuffs  to  be 
had  in  that  Country,  but  he  mull  wait  till  they  could  be  fetch'd  from 
France.  In  fine,  he  was  teaz'd  fo,  that  a  fecond  Vefl  was  deliver'd  to 
theBafhaw,  by  order  of  the  Company.  The  Turks  mufl  never  be  ufed 
to  Prefents,  or  thofe  Prefents  mufl  never  be  difcontinu'd :  they  look  on 
the  firfl  as  a  Contract  for  the  future.  The  toppingefl  Lords  think  it  no 
lhame  to  beg,  and  laugh  at  ye  if  ye  talk  of  Generofity. 

WE  happen'd  to  be  in  the  City  of  Candia,  the  night  before  the  Iefler 
Bairam  ;  that  is  to  fay,  the  Eve  of  the  Day  on  which  the  Caravan  of  Pil- 
grims arrives  at  Mecha.  The  Commander  of  the  Janizaries  march'd  round 
the  Town  in  Cavalcade,  with  the  Captains  of  Companies  and  the  fub- 
altern  Officers  ;  the  People  were  bufy  in  cutting  the  throats  of  Sheep 
and  Lambs  at  the  doors  of  the  principal  Houfes :  the  Peafants  crouded 
the  ftreets  with  thofe  Creatures  alive,  on  their  backs,  in  the  fame  Attitude 
as  the  Good  Shepherd  is  ufually  painted.  The  Heads  of  thefe  Animals 
they  fmear  with  red,  yellow,  or  blue  ;  and  then  make  Prefents  of  'em  up 
and  down:  this  Rejoicing  holds  three  days.  The  30th  of  Maj,  the  Day 
of  Pentecoft,  and  the  firfl  Day  of  the  Bairam,  we  went  to  the  Baihaw's 

Houfe, 


Defer iption  of  the  //land  of  Candia.  gc; 

Houfc,  where  by  his  order  were  diih'd  out  early  in  the  morning,  after  Letter  I. 
cheir  religious  Worfhip  was  over,  no  lefs  than  fifty  Muttons  or  Lambs,  **  ■>"v">*-' 
(bme  roafled  whole,  or  cut  in  quarters ;  others  boil'd,  or  in  Ragou  :  nor 
was  there  any  want  of  Pullets  and  Rice.  We  had  the  pleafure  to  be- 
hold the  Tttrkifh  Rabble  fcrambling  for  this  Meat,  and  /hatching  it  from 
one  another,  either  to  eat  it  therafelves  or  carry  it  off:  the  Viceroy 
(landing  all  the  while  at  a  grated  Window,  ready  to  fplit  with  laughing: 
20  or  25  Fellows  playing  on  Inflruments,  Drums,  Trumpets,  Bagpipes, 
Tabors,  and  the  like,  feem'd  to  increafe  the  Difbrder ;  thefe  Muficians 
went  in  a  Body  to  the  prime  Men  of  the  Town,  for  Donatives.  M.  Va- 
lentin, Viceconful  of  France,  at  whofe  Houfe  we  were,  order'd  them 
twenty  Crowns :  the  Eve  of  the  Feaft  he  had  fent  the  Viceroy  a  Prefent 
of  Coffee,  Sugar,  and  Confecls.  There's  not  the  meanefl  Water-Porter 
but  will  have  a  hand  in  this  Feflival :  thefe  go  to  the  principal  Mens 
Houfes,  where  they  empty  their  Water-Budgets  on  the  Threfhold,  to 
(hew  their  Refpects,  or  rather  to  get  a  few  '  Parats.  In  every  Hcufe  ■  a  Coin 
there's  Merry-making;  fome  dancing,  others  eating  and  drinking:  heie  TeZ^Denien. 
they  repeat  Verfes,  there  they  range  the  Streets  with  mufical  Inftrumcnts ; 
while  others  take  their  pleafure  on  the  Water.  In  fhort,  this  Nation,  (b 
grave,  and  which  always  feems  to  be  on  one  pin,  is  of  a  fudden  quite 
off  the  hinges,  and  run  about  like  fo  many  mad  things  :  happy  that  thefe 
Feflivals  return  no  oftner. 

YOUR  Lordfhip  will  believe  me,  without  (wearing,  that  we  were 

perfectly  fick  of  thefe  Gambols ;  but  our  Guides  durft  not  proceed  a 

flep  during  the  three  days  of  the  Bairani.     All  this  while  we  had  met 

with  nothing  very  extraordinary  in  Candia  relating  to  Plants,  and  we 

pleas'd  our  felves  with  hopes  of  finding  fbmething  uncommon  towards 

the  South.     We  began  therefore  our  Journey  to  Girapetra  the  lafl  Day  of 

May,  and  we  lay  eighteen  miles  off  of  Candia,  at  a  Town  call'd  Trapftno, 

where  they  drive  a  great  Trade  in  Earthen  Pots,  Paris,  and  huge  '  Crules  2  k<*°s. 

for  Oil.     We  had  a  mind  to  take  in  our  way  the  Valley  of  Mir'abeau  :  for 

vhich  reafon  the  next  day  we  fet  our  faces  towards  thofe  great  Moun- 

ains  Northward.     We  went  and  lay  at  Plati,  another  Village,  ten  miles 

rom  Trapfano,  after  we  had  crofs'd  over  many  a  frightful  Hill,  from 

y hence  we  could  fee  the  SnoW,  which  all  the  Year  round  covers  the  tops 

F  2  of 

I 


36 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 


of  tliofc  Mountains.     'Tis  being  ib  near  this  Snow,  that  makes  the  Wine 
of  PUti  fo  flat :  the  Grape  hardly  ever  ripens  there,  and  the  Wine  they 
brought  us  feem'd  to  be  Wine  de  Brie  :  and  yet  we  found  abundance  of 
■  or  of  Siti.    Plants  there.     The  Plain  of  '  PUti  uied  to  pay  the  Venetians  40,000 

*  Each -weigh-  '  Meafures  of  Wheat  by  way  of  Tythe  :  for  want  of  hands,  the  Country 

ing  45  Found.  _  ,     .  .  . 

now  is  in  a  very  lorry  condition.  The  Turks  never  trouble  themlelves 
for  the  matter.  Befides  the  Capitation-Tax,  they  exact  half  what  Corn 
each  Inhabitant  gets  off  the  ground. 

THROUGH  a  Paflage  full  of  Precipices,  we  entred,  the  2d  of 
June,  into  the  Valley  of  Mirabeau  ;  fhut  in  with  other  Mountains,  which 
look'd  very  agreeable  to  the  Eye,  the  Valley  being  difpos'd  in  manner  of 
an  Amphitheatre,  from  whence  it  flretches  out  as  far  as  to  the  Sea.  All 
this  Tracl:  abounds  in  Oil  and  all  forts  of  Grain,  as  being  populous 
enough  and  well  labour'd.  That  night  we  reach'd  Commeriaco,  a  Towi 
fifteen  miles  from  PUti :  here  we  lay  at  the  Sign  of  the  Moon  and  feven 
Stars  (anglice  in  the  open  Air)  among  certain  Monks,  who  had  remov' 
all  the  Furniture  of  the  Houfe  into  the  Churchy  to  make  way  for  the 
Silk- Worms  in  the  Cells  and  Dormitories.  The  3d  of  June  we  arriv'd  at 
Critza,  about  three  a  clock  in  the  afternoon.  This  Town  ftands  on  the 
highefl  part  of  a  very  fruitful  Plain,  at  the  foot  of  a  fteep  Rock,  abound- 
ing with  noble  Plants.  From  this  place  we  difcern'd  the  Road  of  Mira- 
beau, which  is  very  much  expos'd,  tho  it  feems  to  be  cover'd  by  higr 
Mountains.  The  Cadi  of  Critza  defir'd  we  would  come  to  his  Houfe,  tc 
feel  his  Pulfe  :  'tis  the  way  of  the  Turks,  tho  they  ail  nothing.  His 
Abode  was  in  a  noble  Park:  almoft  every  Alley  in  it  was  terrae'd  anc 
planted  with  Orange,  Pomegranate,  Cyprefs,  and  Myrtle-Trees  :  the 
Kitchin-Garden  is  full  of  Apple,  Pear,  and  Apricock-Trees,  kept  a  U 
mode  de  Turkji ;  that  is,  left  to  themfelves,  as  if  they  were  in  a  Forefr. 
The  Houfe  is  ready  to  fall  about  one's  ears,  for  want  of  repairing  the 
top :  it  once  belong'd  to  a  Family  of  the  Cornaros  of  Venice,  as  appears 
by  fome  Remnants  of  Infcriptions. 

THE  /  th  of  June  we  went  down   to  the  Road  of  Mirabeau,  in  viev 
of  the  great  Mountains  of  U  Side,  known  to  the  Antients  by  the  name 

*  HA!*1iio£«f  of  3  Diffe,  about  twelve  miles  and  a  half  from  Cape  Salomon.     The  Iflanc 
suTk  i&r.      is  Yery  much  pinch'd  in  between  the  Road  of  Girapetra  and  Mhabeau. 

Geo£.  lib.  10..  Ja 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Candia.  37 

In  lcfs  than  two  hours  we  got  to  the  Town  :  the  Land  being  pinch'd,  Letter  t, 
as  I  faid,  is  what  makes  the  Peninfula,  where  in  time  paft  flood  the  Town  <^~^''m**>J 
of  Pr.tfos,  the  Capital  of  the  Eteocretes,  whom  Homer  calls  Men  of  high 
Spirits :  they  had  erected  a  Temple  to  Dittxan  Jupiter,  but  this  Town 
was  deftroy'd  by  the  Inhabitants  of  Girapetra,  alias  Hierapytna. 

'  HIERAPTTNA  was  a  good  Place  when  Me  tellies  undertook  the  ^IAEPArTrT" 
Conqueft  of  Crete.     Ariflion,  after  he  had  beaten  Lucius  Baffin,  retreated  Hierapytna,  or 
thither,  and  put  it  into  a  very  defenfive  Condition.     '  Oaavius,  after  he  had  Girapetra. 
been  worfted  by  Metellits,  repair'd  thither  likewiie,  to  confer  with  Arijtion  :  j?iod-  ^c- 
Advice  being  brought  them  that  the  forenamed  General  was  coming  to  lib.  36. 
befiege  'em  in  Perfon,  they  quitted  the  Caftle,  and  fail'd  away. 

AT  prefent  Girapetra.  is  a  fmall  Town,    defended  by  a  fquare  Fort, 
built  upon  a  !  crooked  Coaft,  on  all  fides  expos'd  :  from  hence  are  dif-  *  ei;  xoW&>  J9 
cern'd  the  Rocks  call'd  the  +  ljles  of  Affes.     The  Ruins  of  the  old  Town  strab.  Rer. ' 
confift  of  ibme  very  thick  Quarters  of  Walls,  and  feveral  pieces  of  Pil-  f  e°s' llb',10 
lars  up  and  down  in  the  fields.     Gr  titer  us  records  ibme  Infcriptions  of chryfo&Gau- 
Hierapytna,  and  there  are  extant  Ibme  5  Medals  of  Caligula,  on  the  Re- Nat.  lib. 4- 
verfe  whereof  is  an  Eagle  perch'd  as  it  were  upon  a  Thunderbolt :  thecap*12* 
Tree  which  is  by  the  fide  of  the  Eagle,  teems  to  be  a  Palm-Tree.     Now       eot 
I  am  fpeaking  of  thefe  Medals,  I  remember  there  are  no  Palm-Trees  i*E^°nr0- 
about  Girapetra,  and  but  very  few  in  the  whole  Ifland  ;  the  Dates  they     n  1  n  n. 
eat  there,  being  brought   from  Africa.     M.  Spanheim   mentions  another  IE  pa  n  re- 
■  Medal  of  the  fame  Town,  whofe  Genius  is  reprefented  by  a  Woman's 
Head  charg'd  with  Turrets:  on  the  Reverie  is  alio  a  Palm-Tree  and  aniEPAnre- 

N  I  Q.  N 

Eagle.      As  for  thefe    pretended  Palm-Trees,    they  are  fb   bunglingly  imepaios^- 
done,  that  they  may  pafs  for  Pines.     I  very  well  know,  Tbeophrajlus  af- 
firms there  were  ieveral  forts  of  Palm-Trees  in  Crete;  but  that  Author 
never  travel'd  any  where  himfelf,  and  hardly  advances  any  thing  but  by 
hearfay.     We  muft  like  rife  cbferve,  that  the  Medal  we  are  fpeaking  of 
has  a  Border  of  a  couple  of  Olive-Branches ;    this  is  a  very  common 
Tree  about  Girapetra  :  Perhaps  the  Intent  of  reprefenting  this  Tree,  as 
alfo  the  Pine,  was  to  indicate  that  thefe  two  Trees  were  what  grew  moft 
frequent  about  the  City ;  the  Pine  on  the  Mountains,  and  the  Olive  in. 
the  Champian,  where  they  are  careful  in  watering  it.     Our  Countrymen- 
come  heie  to  freight  Oils,  Cheefe,  and  Wax. 

SIR  ABO, 


38 


A  Voyage  into  /^Levant. 


ST R  A  BO,  for  determining  the  Breadth  of  the  Ifthmus  of  the  Penin- 
fula  of  U  Si  tie,  feems  to  have  oppos'd  the  Town  of  Minoa  againft  that  of 
Hierapytna  ;  between  which  he  places  LyBium.  If  this  be  fo,  then  Mi- 
noa can't  be  far  from  the  Ruins  of  the  Caftle  of  Mirabeau  ;  and  the 
diftance  which  we  have  obferv'd,  correfoonds  to  that  of  Strabo,  who 
■  (o  Stadia,  makes  this  Ifthmus  to  be  about '  feven  miles  and  a  half  broad, 
nb.  10.  THE  5th  of  June  we  went  to  vifit  the  great  Mountains,  which  are 

on  the  Northweft  of  Girapetra  :  they  are  Continuations  of  Mount  Ida. 
'  T»i  0  IJto  '  Strabo  informs  us,  that  the  City  of  Hierapytna  took  its  name  from  a 
*V  ?  Js^VJ-  Mountain  call'd  Pjfm,  which  in  all  probability  is  the  Mountain  of  Males  : 
&  l^Rer'  tnat  ^Zy  wentDy  tne  nanie  of  Cyrba  before,  as  Stephens  the  Geographer 
-<3eog.  lib.  io.  relates ;  then  Pytna,  afterwards  Qamirw,  and  at  laft  Hierapytna.  Ptolemy 
'U(>cr:  riir&.  calls  it  Hierapetra,  which  is  now  turn'd  into  Girapetra. 

Ptol.  Geo«.  r         7  ' 

lib. 3.  cap.  17.      WE  went  the  lame  day  and  lay  at  Calamafca,  z  Village  within  feven 
,miles  of  Girapetra.     The  6th    of  June  we  pafs'd  through  Anatoli,  and 
got  to  Males,  about  eight  miles  off  Calamafca :  we  alcend  thefe  Moun- 
tains, without  once  lofing  fight  of  the  Southern  Sea.     The  7th  of  ^«»e> 
we  made  the  beft  of  our  way,  and  yet  were  fain  to  Ipend  the  night  in  a 
ftrange  By-place,  near  a  Fountain,  where  we  fupp'd  by  the  Light  of  a 
•  ilex  acukata,  dozen  huge  Holni- Trees,  and  as  many  '  Kermes  or  Scarlet-Berry- Trees, 
ra.c.B. pin.  which  our  Greek  Conductors  iht  fire  to:  thefe  lighted  us  all  the  night 
AJ  Tree  prod*- l°ng>  an^  excited  in  the  Air  a  Warmth  that  was  very  comfortable  to  us. 
ring  the  ve,-   i"hat  day  we  got  no  further  than  the  firft  Snows  at  the  foot  of  other 

milion  or  Scar-  J  ° 

let  Grain.  Mountains  far  higher,  on  which  we  walk'd  the  day  after.  Though  thefe 
4  Acei  AfPhen- Mountains  are  very  cold,  yet  the  Holm-Oaks  are  very  flour ifh in s,  and 

dgnnos.  Belon.  J  »  °7 

obf.  lib.  1.  the  Kermes  grow  as  tall  as  our  common  Oaks  :  there  are  alio  fine  4  Ma- 
Arer  cretica,  pies,  with  Leaves  flafh'd  into  three  points.  Nothing  is  more  furprizing 
p.Aip.Exot.9.  than  afort  of  «  p]umb.Tree,  which  all  thefe  Rocks  are  embellilh'd  with, 

»  Piiinus  Cre- 

ticn,  montana,  and  which  flourifhes  in  proportion  to  the  melting  of  the  Snow :  its 
™fa,inflorcf™-  Stalks  are  not  more  than  half  a  foot  in  heighth ;  the  Branches  are  very 
co"oMnft  bufhy,  loaded  with  Flowers  of  a  flefh-colour :  its  Fruit  is  hardly  bigger 
Rei  Herb.       tnan  a  white  Goofeberry. 

fSSSSmL-  THE  wild  Goats  mention'd  by  Solinut,  and  which  *  Belonitu  has  given 
pranim  oopio-  a  prjnt  0f  run  Up  and  down  thefe  Mountains  in  Herds ;  the  Greeks  call 

fus  eft.    Solin.  '  r  ' 

poiyhift.cn.  ^m  Jprimia,  a  Name  they  give  to  all  Deer.     We  wonder'd  to  fee  Olive- 

*  Obferv.  ^  _, 

hb.  1.  cap.  13.  Irees 


Defer iption  of  the  Ijland  of  Candia.  go 

Trees  in  thefe  Parts,  and  fo  near  the  Snow  too,  /bringing  up  naturally,   Letter  I. 
and  molt  of 'em  refembling  thofe  which  are  rais'd  by  Art  :  wild  Olive-  ^^^r^-1 
Trees  are  diftinguifhablc  not  only  by  the  Fruit,  but  alfo  by  the  Leaf, 
which  is  rounder  and  harder.     If  Hercules  the  '  Cretan  had  been  inform'd  'orthtiitaaj, 

and  the  Cu- 

that  thefe  Olive-Trees  grew  in  Crete,  he  would  not  have  given  himlelf  retes. 
the  trouble  of  going  among  the  2  Hyperboreans,  to  bring  'em  into  Greece.  '  Paufan.  Pe- 
Dtodonts '  Siculus  with  good   reafon  obferves,  that  Minerva  tranfpianted  Eliacfe  prion 
from  the  Woods  into  Orchards  your  domeflick  Olives  ;  there  are  whole ,'  Bibli°th-Hift. 

lib.  5. 

Mountains  cover'd  with  'em,  on  the  road  from  Smyrna  to  Ephefus. 

AFTER  we  had  wander'd  about  in  the  Snow,  and  pick'd  up  fuch 
Plants  as  occur'd,  we  went  down  to  Males,  and  fo  to  Girapetra,  the  9th 
of  'June.  The  10th  we  took  the  fliorteft  Cut  to  Candia,  where  we  tarry'd 
the  13  th,  and  lay  at  Dinajla  the  14th  ;  the  15  th  we  lay  at  Daphne  des; 
the  1 6  th  on  the  Coaft  of  Almyron,  partly  wet  and  partly  dry,  among  the 
Rulhes:  the  17th  at  Canea,  where  having  difcharg'd  our  felves  of  our 
Luggage,  we  again  vifited  the  Neighbourhood  of  that  City  and  Cape 
Melter,  to  look  upon  fome  Vegetables  that  were  but  juft  fpringing  up  the 
beginning  of  the  pall  Month 

THE  28th  of  June  we  left  Canea,  to  go  fee  Mount  Ida,  the  Labyrinth 
and  the  Ruins  of  Gortyna.     Our  firft  Stage  was  Almyron,  our  fecond  Re- 
timo.     The  30th  we  went  and  lay  at  the  Convent  of  Ar cadi,  within  Arcadi. 
twelve  miles  of  Retimo.     This  Convent,  the  handfbmeft  and  richeft  of 
all  the  Monafteries  in  the  Ifland,  feems  to  have  retain'd  the  Name  of  the 
antient  City  of  Arcadia,  mention'd  by  4  Seneca,  Pliny,  and  Stephens  the  *  Quart.  Nat. 
Geographer :  but  it  is  rtrange  that  Seneca  and  Pliny  mould  prefiime  to  pVn!  Hiftl'Na'r* 
vouch  Theophrafim  to  an   incredible  thing;  namely,  that  after  the  De-  llb-3'-  "P-4- 
ftrudion  of  this  Town,  all  the  Springs  round  about  were  dry'd  up,  and 
never  ran  more  till  it  was  rebuilt.     In  times  paft,  5  Arcadia  was  honour'd  *  Novel,  imp, 
with  the  third  Biihoprick  of  the  Ifland :  all  that's  now  left,  is  a  great 
Convent  feated  in  a  Plain,  like  a  Platform,  on  the  top  of  a  Mountain, 
at  the  foot  of  Mount  Ida.     The  Accefs  of  this  Platform  is  through  an 
agreeable  Valley,  divided  into  Orchards,  Vineyards,  and  arable  Lands  ; 
overfpread,  in  fuch  places  as  are  unmanur'd,  with  Holm-Oaks,  Kermes, 
Maples,    Phillyrea,    Myrtles,    Maftick-Trees,    Turpentine-Trees,  Pifla- 
choes,  Laurels,  Cyprefs,  Storax.     The  place  is  full  of  Springs  and  Ri- 

■yulets. 


^.o  ^  Votage  into  the  Levant. 

Esi  3  bgeivn  >fc  vulets,  and  revives  the  Idea  of  antient  Crete  ;  which,  as  Strabo  defcribes 

'i%i  si  dvk£-  it,  is  lull  to  be  perceiv  d  here. 

GeU^fe)  THE  main  PiIe  of  Building  is  grand  and  regular;  the  Church  has 
two  Naves,  adorn'd  with  Gothick  Pictures.  Is  it  not  a  furprizing  thing, 
that  the  Greeks,  whole  Forefathers  fo  juftly  follow'd  Nature,  mould  dege- 
nerate into  the  Tafte  of  the  Goths,  who  were  fuch  ill  Imitators  of  her  ? 
This  can  be  no  otherwife  accounted  for,  than  becaule  fine  Performances 
require  too   much  Time  and  Study;     In  this  Houfe  there  are  about  a 

1  Caioycrs.      hundred  '  Monks,  and  two   hundred  Out-liers,  employ' d  in  Husbandry 

Me76^,  Fa™.  ^^  improving  their  Farms.     The  *  Superior,  a  genteel-fpirited  Man,  en- 

cwi£  *'  tertain'd  us  with  wonderful  Civility :  Perfons  in  his  Poll  being  for  the 
mod  part  grave,  and  of  a  venerable  Mien,  'twould  be  an  Affront  to 
offer  them  Mony  when  one  goes  away  :  the  Cuftom  is,  to  drop  a  few 

'  ^  Gold  coin  3  Sequins  into  the  Bafon  of  the  holy  Bread,  which  they  prefent  to  you 

worth  two  i  r  J    l  j 

crowns  and  when  Mais  is  over. 

THE  Cellar  is  one  of  the  handfomeft  places  of  the  whole  Monaftery  : 
there  are  no  lefs  than  200  Butts  of  Wine  in  it;  the  bell:  Piece  is  mark'd 
with  the  Superior's  Name,  and  no  body  dare  touch  it  without  his  leave. 
By  way  of  blefling  this  Cellar,  he  once  a  year,  after  Vintage  is  over, 
repeats  the  following  Prayer,  printed  in  the  Greek  Ritual :  tranflated,  it 
runs  thus;  0  Lord  God,  who  lovest  Mankind,  cast  thy  eyes  on  this  Wine, 
and  on  thofe  that  fhall  drink  it  ;  hlefs  thou  our  Butts,  as  thou  didft  of  old 
the  Well  of  Jacob,  the  Pool  of  Siloam,  and  the  Drink  of  thy  holy  Afojlles. 
0  Lord,  as  thou  wast  pleased  to  be  prejent  at  the  Wedding  at  Cana,  where  by 
changing  Water  into  Wine,  thou  tnadelt  thy  Glory  manifejt ;  fend  down  now 
thy  Holy  Spirit  on  this  Wine,  and  blefs  it  in  thy  Name.     Amen. 

THE  Lands  of  this  Religious  Houfe  reach  as  far  as  to  the  Sea  to- 
wards Retimo,  and  to  the  top  of  Mount  Ida  on  the  South.  We  were 
told  that  the  Monks  had  gather'd  this  year  above  four  hundred  Meafures 
of  Oil,  tho  one  half  of  their  Fruit  was  loft  for  want  of  hands  to  get  it 
in.  Below  Arcadi,  verging  to  the  Sea,  is  the  Convent  of  Arfeni,  which 
is  reported  to  be  a  very  handfbme  Building  ;  but  we  had  not  time  to 
vifit  it. 
h  1  ah  THE  firft  of  July  we  fteer'd  our  courle  to  Mount  Ida,  in  company 

Ida  Mons.      with  two  Fryars,  who  were  order'd  by  the  Superior  of  Arcadi  to  conduct 

Mount  H 1.  %.  nS 


Defer iption  of  the  IJland  of  Candia.  41 

us  through  the  Defarts,  which  our  Guides  were  ftrangers  to.     Our  Con-  Letter  1. 
voys  brought  us  to  a  Fountain  eighteen  miles  from  the  Convent,  and  ten  •^m^T^-' 
miles  from  the  top  of  Mount  Ida.    There's  no  going  on  horfeback  be-  ^tZhaTto 
yond  this  Spring :  the  whole  Country  here  is  quite  bare,  and  very  ftony.P)'.  H|'gh 
We  left  our  Horfes  to  the  Care  of  a   Monk,  who  has  a  Lodge  by  this  J4«aw  \a(. 
Fountain,  and  is  a  fort  of  a  Stud-mafter  to  the  Monaftery.     Our  Guides  r/^nj^y** 
took  with  'em  Provifion  for  three  days.     The  two  Monks  taking  their  Se«w'-V°'w- 

•>  °  -rev.  otrab.Rer. 

leaves  of  us,  we  were  left  to  the  Stud-mafler,  who  conducted  us  to  a  Geog,  lib,  M, 
Sheep-fold  fix  miles  from  the  Fountain :  we  were  obliged  to  flop  here, 
and  tho  it  was  a  very  uncomfortable  place  to  take  up  one's  Quarters  in, 
yet  it  was  neceiTary  to  us,  becaufe  it  was  the  only  place  that  had  Water 
all  thereabouts.  From  this  Well  to  the  top  of  the  Mountain,  they 
reckon  four  miles :  we  afcended  it  with  much  difficulty,  on  the  third  of 

THIS  mighty  Mountain,    which  covers  almoft  the  middle  of  the 
Ifland,  has  nothing  of  note  but  its  Name,  fo  renown'd  in  antient  Hiftory. 
This  celebrated  Mount  Ida  exhibits  nothing  but  a  huge  overgrown,  ugly, 
fharp-rais'd,  bald-patcd  Eminence ;  not  the  leafl  fhadow  of  a  Landskip, 
no  delightful   Grotto,  no  bubbling  Spring,  nor  purling  Rivulet   to  be 
feen :  tljere  is  indeed  one  poor  forry  Well  with  a  Bucket,  to  keep  the 
Sheep  and  Horfes  from  perifhing  with  Thirfl.     All  the  Cattel  bred  on 
it,  are  a  few  fcrubby  Horfes,  fbme  Sheep  and  ftarveling  Goats,  which 
are  fore'd  to  brouze  on  the  very  Tragacantha ;  a  Shrub  lb  prickly,  that  Tejtft&p&t, 
the  Greeks  call  it  Goats-thorn.     Begging  '  Dionjfius  Periegetes's  pardon,  as  •orbi/rT- 
likewile  his  Commentator's,  the  Archbilhop  of  Theffdonica ;  the  Praifes  fc'jpt.ver.$8i. 
they  beftow'd  on  this  Mountain,  feem  to  be  ftrain'd,  or  at  leaft  are  now  vei-c'eundem. 
pad  their  feafbn.     They  who  have  advane'd,  that  the  upper  parts  of 
Mount  Ida  were  quite  '  bald,  and  that  Plants  could  not  live  there  for  «  $«Aa'«^/ 
Snow  and  Ice,  came  much  nearer  the  Truth.     Tbeofhraflm  talks  of  a^^g^"1/"^ 
fort  of  Vine  growing  here,  and  Pliny  has  done  no  more  than  tranflated  Eyfant: 
the  Defcription  of  it.     We  look'd  about  to  fee  if  we  could  find  any  fuch  ^ifa  &  ^ 
Vine,  but  to  no  purpofe  ;  and  yet  it  can't  be  doubted  but  thofe  Authors  ^.^  £f 
meant  Mount  Ida  of  Crete  :  for  on  that  of  Phrwia  there's  neither  Snow  **'***?;.„ The_ 
nor  Ice  to  be  feen.     On  whatever  fide  we  turn'd  our  eyes,  from   one  Pimt.iib.  3. 
Heighth  to  another,  we  faw  nothing  but  bottomlcfs  Quagmires,  and  deep  pifn.iuft.Nat. 
Vol.1.  ^G  -AbyiTes1*-1'4-^-' 


a 2  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Abyfies  fill'd  with  Snow  ever  fince  the  Reign  of  King  Jupiter,  the  firft 
of  the  Name. 

FROM  the  top  of  Mount  Ida,   which  is  the  higheft  place  of  the 

Ifland,  you  difcern  the  Sea,  South  and  North  ;  but  why  all  this  pother 

to  fee  it  at  fuch  a  diftance  ?    and  yet  this  was  the  reafon  of  its  being 

>  cited  in  the  caU'd  j^    jn  the  earlieft  Antiquity.     According  to  '  HelLidius.  it  was  the 

Bibliotheque  of  \  ,,  .    ,,    ,/  .  . 

photius.         common  Appellative  of  all  Mountains  from  whence  a  great  Extent  of 
^"ijw.videre.  Country  could  be  difcover'd :  and  if  a  Suidas  may  be  credited,  all  Forefls 
that  afford  an  agreeable   Profpecl,  were  call'd  Ide.     As  for  us,  whole 
Heads  at  that  time  were  not  bent  to  fiich  book-learn'd  Thoughts,  and  out 
of  humour  that  we  found  nothing  but  Flint-Stones,  and  but  a  few  uncom- 
mon Plants,  being  fcarce  able  to  draw  one  Leg  after  the  other  ;  yet  that 
we  might  have  nothing  to  upbraid  our  felves  withal,  we  exerted  our 
utmoft  Strength  to  reach  the  furthermoft  Summit,  in  fpite  of  the  Winds 
which  beat  us. back  again;  and  getting  under  the  covert  of  a  perpendu 
cular  Rock,  a  fancy  took  us  in  the  heads  to  make  a  little  Sherbet.     That 
which   the  Turks  uiually  drink,  is  nothing  but  an  Infufion  of  Raifins, 
into  which  they  throw  ye  a  handful  of  Snow  :  the  Ptifane  of  the  Hotel- 
Dieu  of  Paris  is  a  much  better  Draught.     We  fill'd  our  Cups  with  clean 
chryflalliz'd  Snow-Drops,  and  here  and  there  a  Lay  of  Sugar  between :  on 
this  we  pour'd  a  quantity  of  excellent  Wine ;  and  then  making  the  Cups, 
the  whole  prefently  dilTblv'd.     We  did  our  felves  the  honour  to  drink 
the  King's  Health  and  wifh  his  Majefty  long  Life   and  Happinefs :  after 
which,  we  the  more  manfully  clamber'd  up  to  the  very  point  of  this 
Rock,  deep  as  it  was.     Whither  would  not  one  go,    with  fuch  good 
Wine,    and  commanded  by  fo  great  a  Prince  ?     This  Wine  was  of  the 
colour  of  Alicant,   without  any  Lufcioufnefs,    rich,  racy,  ftrong-body'd, 
deep-colour'd,  perfumed  with  a  penetrating  Spirituoufhefs.     The  Supe- 
rior of  Arcadi  made  us  a  Prefent  of  it,  or  rather  we  had  it  in  barter  for 
fome  Polychreft  Pills,  and  a  few  Dofes  of  Emetick  Tartar,  which  fome 
of  his  Religious  had  reap'd  no   fmall  benefit  from.     Emeticks  fuit  the 
Greek  Conftitutions  in  many  cafes :  moil:  of  them,  especially  the  Eccle- 
fiafticks,  who,  to  give  'em  their  due,  are  none  of  the  meagereft  of  the 
Country,  have  a  broad  Cheft  and  a  very  capacious  Belly,  which  is  eafily 
mov'd  by  the  leaft  Attacks  of  Antimony. 

AS 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Candia.  4.3 

AS  for  Plants,  there's  none  on  Mount  Ida  but  what  may  more  com-  Letter  I. 
modioufly  be  come  at  on  the  Mountains  of  Canea  ;    whole  Frefhncfs,  Vw/^/r^-' 
Verdure,  and  limpid  Streams  are  really  inviting  to  a  Herborizer.     We 
had,  however,  the  fatisfa&ion  of  fully  obierving  the  '  Gum  Adragant  on  '  a  -Drug  u/ed 
Mount  Ida.     I  can't  understand  how  '  Belonius  comes  to  aflert  fo  pofi-  „rieSj  ^'iaI 
tively  that  there's  no  fuch  thing  in  Candia.  -.  fure  he  had  not  read  the  firft  S^£j22H 
Chapter  of  the  ninth  Book   of  Tbeophrajttts's   Hiftory  of  Plants.     The  *«. 
little  bald  Hillocks  about  the  Sheep-fold  produce  much  of  the  Tragacan-  t  ap^ij!  ' 
tha,  and  that  too  of  a  very  good  fort.     Belonita  and  Projper  Alpinus  were  Tragacamha 
doubtlefs  acquainted  with  it,  tho  'tis  hardly  poffible,  from  their  Defcrip-  f^f^T'' 
tions.  to  diftinguifh  it  from  the  other  kinds  they  make  mention  of.     This  1'neis  PU1 '» 'ure''s 

rf  ftriato.   Corol, 

Shrub  Spontaneously  yields  the  Gum  Adragant  towards  the  end  of  June,  inft.  Rei  Herb. 
and  in  the  following  Months ;  at  what  time  the  nutritious  Juice  of  this  29' 
Plant,  thicken'd  by  the  Heat,  burfts  open  moil  of  the  VefTels  wherein 
it  is  contain'd.  It  is  not  only  gather'd  in  the  Heart  of  the  Trunk  and 
Branches,  but  alfo  in  the  Inter-fpaces  of  the  Fibres,  which  are  fpread  in 
a  rcund  Figure  or  Circle  like  Rays  of  the  Sun,  as  appears  in  the  Trunk 
mark'd  A.  This  Juice  is  coagulated  into  fmall  Threds,  which  palling 
through  the  Bark,  hTue  out  by  little  and  little,  according  as  they  are 
protruded  by  the  frefh  Supplies  of  Juice  arifing  from  the  Roots :  this 
Subftance  being  expos'd  in  the  Air,  grows  hard,  and  is  form'd  either 
into  Lumps,  or  flender  Pieces  curl'd  and  winding  in  the  nature  of  Worms, 
more  or  lcls  long,  according  as  matter  offers:  it  feems  as  if  the  Con- 
traction of  the  Fibres  of  this  Plant  contributes  to  the  expreiTing  the 
Gum.  Thefe  delicate  Fibres,  as  fine  as  Flax,  being  uncover'd  and  trod- 
den by  the  Feet  of  the  Shepherds  and  Horfes,  are  by  the  Heat  fhrivel'd 
up,  and  facilitate  the  Emanation  of  the  extravafated  Juice. 

'TWAS  not  without  fome  furprize,  we  found  that  a  Plant  which 
Profper  Alpinm  made  no  difficulty  to  lift  under  the  Species  of  Traga- 
ctntba.   ought  to  have  been    plac'd  among  thofe  of  Limonium.     Who  Limonium 

11  '     1  1  r     1       1  1  .1  n,  _  Creticum  Tuni- 

could  imagine  that  there  was  any  luch  thing  in  the  world,  as  a  Plant  of  peri  folio,  co- 
this  laft  kind  with  Juniper-Leaves  ?     Now  I'm  mentioning  Juniper,  that  Heri,.a<; 
which  grows  on  Mount  Ida  riles  not  above  two  or  three  foot  high  :  its  Ecllinus>  ''d  *& 

*?  °  Ti'.igacantna 

Twigs   Spreading  out  on  the  fides,    form  a  Shrub  like   the  Juniper  of  altera,  p.  Alp. 
the  Alps,  and  there's  no  diftinguilhing  'em  but  by  their  Fruit :  that  of Exot" 5  * 

G  2  Candia. 


44.  A  Vo  y  A  g  e  into  the  Levant. 

jimiperus  de-  Candia  is  as  large  and  as  red  as  that  of  the  red-berry'd  Juniper,  fb  fre- 
ratiffimo.  Ki-  quent  in  Provence  and  L.tnguedoc.  Befides,  the  dry  Wood  of  the  Candia. 
rmn  reKmo-  Juniper,  is  colour'd  and  lcented  juft  like  that  kind  of  American  Cedar, 
num.    coroi.  wjth  which  at  Paris  they  make  Borders  for  Stamps. 

Inft.ReiHerb.  J  L 

41.  FOR  want  of  better  Accommodation,  we  were  forc'd  to  come  back 

to  the  Sheep-coat.  The  next  day,  being  the  14th  of  Juljy  we  dined  at 
the  Spring  where  we  had  left  our  Horfes ;  and  ftriking  towards  the  South- 
weft,  we  defcended  down  horrible  Precipices,  almofl  winding  about  like 
a  Snail  as  far  as  the  foot  of  Mount  Ida,  the  View  whereof  grew  more 
and  more  frightful :  afterwards  we  were  all  of  a  fudden  raviih'd  with  a 
delectable  Contrail.  We  enter'd  into  a  large  open  Valley  between  Mount 
Ida  and  Mount  Kjntro,  all  over  planted  with  Olive,  Orange,  Pomegra- 
nate, Mulberry,  Cyprefs,  Walnut,  Myrtle,  Bay,  and  all  lorts  of  Fruit- 
Trees  ;  the  Villages  are  numerous,  and  the  Waters  admirable.  Mount 
Ida,  is  a  huge  Lembick,  which  fupplies  all  around  it  with  Liquor,  viz. 
almofl:  one  third  of  the   Ifland.     The  Valley  we  fpeak  of,  lofes  it  felf 

'  l*  Meforia,  infenfibly  in  the  fined  and  fruitfulleft  '  Plain  of  all  Candia :  this  Plain 

or  Materia.  .      1  ■  t 

ltretches  as  far  as  Girapetra. 

W  E,  according  to  cuflom,  retir'd  to  a  Monaftery ;  the  Name  of  it  is 
cA<7»V?«f5    *  Jfomatos.  that  is  to  lay,  the  Monaftery  of  Angels  :  the  Superior,  who 

un-bcdy'd,  or  111  ' 

the  Monzjhry  lpoke  Italian,  accommodated  us  the  belt  he  could ;  and  underftandin» 
ofAnga.  that  we  were  in  purfuit  of  Simples,  he  fhew'd  us  fome  Colocajia  aloncr  the 
Brooks  thereabouts.  We  were  exceedingly  rejoic'd  to  meet  with  a  Monk 
that  was  going  to  Canea :  he  was  fo  kind  as  to  take  charge  of  a  Packet 
of  Letters  for  our  Conful,  who  was  difpatching  a  Bark  to  Marfeilles.  I 
with  pleafure  laid  hold  of  the  opportunity  of  alluring  your  Lordlhip 
that  I  am, 

My    Lord, 
Tour  very    Humble  and 

Mofi  Obedient  Servant, 

TOURNEFORT. 


L    E   T- 


(45) 


m%m%m%'M%m%Mmm£mm%m%:m3m%m$m£mxi 


LETTER     II. 

To  Monfeigneur   the  Count  de  Pontchartrain, 
Secretary  of  State,  &c. 


My  Lord, 

N  regard  our  Enquiries  were  not  limited  to  Natural  Hiflory  %'/"¥'<>»  °f 

0  1  J   Candia  con* 

alone,  we  left  Afomatos  the  fifth  of  July,  to  go  lee  the  Ruins  of  thud. 
Gortyna,  24  miles  diftant  from  that  Monaftery.  We  paft'd 
through  Apodoulo,  a  Village  within  fix  miles  of  it ;  and  flill 
coafting  along  Mount  Ida,  crofs  very  barren  Mountains,  where  nothing 
grows  but  the  prickly  Pimpernelle,  we  took  up  our  Lodging  very  near 
the  Sea,  Southerly,  at  la  '  Trinit'e,  another  Town  fix  miles  and  a  half  'Ay!*Tet*- 
from  Afodoulo.  The  fixth  of  July  we  pafs'd  through  Novi-Caftelli,  a 
Hamlet  ten  miles  ofTJ  where  we  arriv'd  in  very  good  time.  The  Ruins 
of  Gortyna  are  but  two  miles  from  this  place. 

THE  Origin  of  Gortyna  is  as  obfcure  as  that  of  molt  antient  Towns,  gortyna. 
What  fignifies  it  to  us,  whether  its  Founder  was  '  Gortyn,  Rhadamanthus's  &  p"o*' 
Son,  or  5  Taurus,  he  that  ran  away  with  Eurofa  on  the  Coaft  of  Pheni- '  befaLGnec. 
cia  ?     Certain   it   is,  that  after   the   Decadence  of  Gnoffus,  which  the  ,  Cedren. 
Romans  made  it  their  bufinefs  to  humble,  4  Gortyna  became   the  moll  ComPen- Hift. 
puifTant  City  of  Crete ;  nay,  it  had  iTiar'd  the  Sovereignty  of  the  Ifland,  Geog.  lib.  10. 
before  the  Romans  Conquefl:  of  it;     Hannibal  thought  himlelf  fafe  there 
againft   thofe  very  Romans,   after  the   Defeat  of  Antiochus  :  i  the  vaft  •.Juftfo.Hift. 
Treafure  which'  that  fam'd  African  carry'd  thither,   rais'd  him  a  great 
many  Enemies ;  but  he  skreenM  himfelf  from  their  Infults,  by  pretending 
to  depofite  his  Riches  in  the  Temple  of  Diana,  whither  he  caus'd  to  be 

carry'd 


46  A  To  y  a  g  e  into  the  Levant. 

carry 'd  fome  Veffels  fill'd  with  Lead.  Not  long  after,  he  repafs'd  into 
JJia,  with  his  Gold,  which  he  had  hid  within  the  Images  of  the  Deities 
he  worfhip'd. 
K"7?'  X  h.  THE  Ruins  of  Gortyna.  are  not  above  fix  miles  from  Mount  Ida,  at 
rbpvrfer  «6-  the  foot  of  low  Hills,  as  you  enter  the  Plain  of  Mejfaria,  which  is  pro- 
Geog.  lib.  10.  perly  the  Granary  of  the  Ifland.  Thele  Ruins  Ihew  indeed  how  magni- 
ficent a  City  it  once  was,  but  'tis  impoiTible  to  look  on  'em  without  con- 
cern :  they  plough,  low,  feed  Sheep  among  the  Wrecks  of  a  prodigious 
quantity  of  Marble,  Jalper,  Granate-Stone,  wrought  with  great  curiofi- 
ty  :  in  the  room  of  thole  great  Men  who  had  caus'd  luch  ftately  Edifices 
to  be  erected,  you  fee  nothing  but  poor  Shepherds,  who  are  fo  flupid  as 
to  let  the  Hares  run  between  their  legs,  without  meddling  with  them  ; 
and  Partridges  bask  under  their  very  nofes,  without  offering  to  catch 
'em.  The  chief  thing  we  difcover'd  among  thele  Ruins,  was  a  Relick  of 
one  of  the  City-Gates ;  tho  the  bed  Stones  of  it  are  miffing,  yet  it  is 
dill  evident  that  the  Arch  was  finely  turn'd  ;  the  Walls  which  are  con- 
1  strab.  ibid,  tiguous  to  this  Gate,  may  have  been  thofe  which  '  Ptolemy  Philoparor, 
King  of  Egypt j  had  caus'd  to  be  rais'd ;  the  Mafonry  of  'em  is  very  thick, 
and  fae'd  with  Brick.  This  Quarter  fecms  to  have  been  one  of  the 
belt  of  the  Town  ;  we  met  with  two  Pillars  of  Granate,  eighteen  foot 
long:  not  far  off  are  yet  to  be  feen  divers Pedeftals,  rang'd  equally  two 
by  two  on  the  fame  Line,  for  fupporting  the  Columns  of  the  Frontifpiece 
of  fome  Temple.  Here  are  a  world  of  Capitals  and  Architraves ;  per- 
adventure  they  are  the  Remains  of  the  Temple  of  Diana  before-men- 

•  Jupiter  Heca-  tion'd,  or  of  that  of  '  Jupiter  to  whom  Menelaus  facrifie'd,  after  he  had 
Phot.  Bib-  heard  the  News  of  his  Wife  Helenas  Flight,  according  to  Ptolem&us  He- 
l'°(.  llb-5-     fi)ejijcn->s  Report,  which  Photius  has  prelerv'd  fome  Extracts  of     As  for 

Apollo's  Temple,  mention'd  by  Stephens  the  Geographer,  it  flood  in  the 
'  X  the  Py.  middle  of  the  5  Town,  and  confequently  remote  from  the  place  we  are 
now  defcribing.  Among  other  Columns  ftill  remaining,  there  are  fome 
of  an  exceeding  beauty,  cylindrical,  and  gutter'd  fpirally  ;  the  thickeft 
are  not  more  than  two  foot  four  inches  diameter.     It  is  notorious,  the 

♦  fA  %-  Turks  have  carry'd  away  the  fineft  of  'em,  and  accordingly  there's  a 
Town  of  the    4  Village  within  two  Musket-ihot  of  thele  ruinous  Fragments,  where  the 

Tea  Saints.       -  O  O  > 

Garden- 


A  V.J-  ".  - 

■j  7^7////-  6yy  j/i&  of 

t/lt.  J{//v//,t  . 

J^.-H/ /■///,•/- 


yl///  '//, :  /  of  CrOJUTlTJV^d . 


S.  W2>^  Jf//-/??<p  /ti/7t/7/2 

J///y?/i/  y  ^M>?l.'ri  ft 

7%2/sr. 
tf-  3%s  S7<7//sr/J//r/-  {fas 

dtrf ' r^ri  /-ry  tf/fc/zr 

A?  fAs  ^7on/n . 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Candia.  47 

Garden-Gates  are  of  two  antique  Columns,  between  which  they  place  a  Letter  If. 
Hurdle  of  Wood  for  a  Door.  <S^T\^ 

THIS  Place  was  calPd  Alona :  it  has  gone  by  the  name  of  the 
Town  of  the  Ten  Saints,  ever  fince  the  ten  illuflrious  Chriftians,  Natives 
of  this  Ifland,  fuffer'd  Martyrdom  there,  in  the  Perlecution  of  the  Em- 
peror Decius.  Theie  Martyrs  were  Theodulus,  Saturninus,  Euporus,  Ge-  Su™»- 
lafius,  Eumcianus,  Zgticas,  Cleomenes,  Agatbopus,  Bafdides,  Evarijius.  The 
Chappel  of  this  Village  is  ftill  crouded  with  antique  Columns,  but  there's 
nothing  to  be  leen  of  the  Tomb  of  the  Martyrs,  mention'd  by  the  Con- 
tinuator  of  Conji inline  Porpbyrogenetes.  Thefe  Martyrs  are  reprefentcd  L,b>  2- 
in  the  principal  Picture  in  two  Rows,  in  the  lame  Pofture  and  on  the 
fame  Line,  erect  and  ftifT  as  Stakes.  The  Greeks  celebrate  their  Feftival 
the  2  jd  of  December,  and  the  Latins  have  folio w'd  'em  therein. 

AMONG  the  Ruins  of  Gortyna  are  Columns  of  red  and  white  Jafper, 
refembling  that  of  Cofne  in  Languedoc :  others  we  law  juft  like  Campan, 
which  is  ufed  at  Versailles.  As  for  Figures,  there  are  but  few,  the  bell 
having  been  carry'd  away  by  the  Venetians.  The  Statue  which  is  on  the 
Fountain  of  Candia,  hard  by  the  Mofque  beyond  the  '  Market-place, ' Bazai' 
was  fetch'd  from  among  thele  Ruins :  the  Drapery  of  it  is  excellent,  but 
the  Figure  is  without  e'er  a  Head  ;  the  Turks  having  an  abhorrence  to 
the  Reprefentation  of  the  Heads  of  things  animate,  unlefs  upon  Coins, 
which  they  are  fond  enough  of,  no  People  more.  Rumaging  in  a  By- 
place,  we  met  with  half  a  Figure  in  Marble  well-drapery'd :  the  Leg 
was  artfully  jointed,  and  the  Toes  wonderful. 

A  T  the  further  end  of  the  Town,  between  the  North  and  the  Well, 
hard  by  a  Brook  which  doubtlefs  is  the  "  River  Lethe ;  which,  if  we  may  \&<*ih  5 
give  credit  to  Strabo  and  Solwus,  ran  among  the  Ruins  of  Gortyna;  are  A».s*7of wow- 
to  be  feen  fome  curious  Remains  of  an  autient  Church,  in  the  Quarter  (feog^k  w>! 
calPd  Metropolis.     Though  the  Architecture  of  this  Church  is  good,  yet  253J*Fn" 
towards  the  left  there's  a  piece  of  Painting  half  effaced  ;  but  quite  afPr*te,flu'M»q 
the  Gotbick  Tafle ;  it  was  in  all  probability  a  Reprelentation  of  lbme  <*orfc  Gortywi 
Story  of  the  Virgin :  there  are  ftill  legible  in  large  Characters '  m*  g?j  SSTfcSS- 
We  were  not  able  to  unfold  a  large  Infcription  in  Greek,  which  is  in  the  17h,'ft«  caP- '  fc 
Chancel :  it  is  plac'd  too  high,  and  much  worn  by  Time.     We  however 
fancy 'd  there  was  ibmewhat  of  the  Name  of  Cyrille,  which  is  not  un-  ktpiaaos. 

likely  ; 


48  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant 

likely  :  for  Hiftory  makes  mention  of  two  Cyrilles  Bilhops  of  Gortyna, 
one  martyr'd  about  the  beginning  of  the  third  Age  under  the  Emperor 
Decius,  and  the  other  by  the  Saracens  in  the  ninth  Age  under  Michael  the 
Stammerer.     We  inquir'd  concerning  thefe  holy  Bilhops,  among  the  Pa- 
pas thereabouts ;  but  they  knew  nothing  of  the  matter.     One  of  them 
told  us,  that  Titus,  to  whom  St.  Paul  wrote  an  Epiflle,  was  Nephew  to 
n^  Tiny  <t  a  Bilhop  of  Gortyna ;    wherein   he  was    egregioufly  miftaken.      Titus, 
Ju%Siw    whom  St.  Paul  calls  his  dearly-beloved  Son,  was  himfelf  the  firft  Bilhop 
'£r  wiieL    °f  Crete ;  and  it  is  highly  probable,  his  See  was  at  Gortyna  :  which  was  at 
,*  &c.  Epift.  that  time  the  principal  City,  and  afterwards  it  had  conftantly  the  honour 
of  being  the  firft  Bilhoprick,  of  the  Illand. 

NEAR  to  the  Ruins  of  the  Metropolitan  Church,  we  met  with  more, 
which  feem'd  to  be  the  Remains  of  fome  Monaftery  :  the  Shepherds 
there  have  built  them  forry  Sheltring-places,  with  huge  pieces  of  antique 
Marble,  among  which  there's  a  Capital  adorn'd  with  two  Rofettes,  and 
a  Crofs  of  St.  Job  ft  of  Jerusalem.  The  Town,  doubtlefs,  was  not  de_ 
ftroy'd  till  after  the  Eftablimment  of  the  Knights  Hoipitalers,  who  now 
are  at  Malta.  Their  Inftitution  began  in  1099,  by  Girard  Te/tque  de 
Martigues  in  Provence.  Clofe  by  thefe  Ruins,  on  the  Brook-fide,  is  the 
Refidue  of  an  Aqueduct,  the  Arch  whereof  is  fix  or  ieven  foot  high : 
on  the  fide  of  it  is  a  noble  Cellar,  vaulted  by  Bands,  and  which  feems  to 
have  been  a  Refervatory  for  lupplying  another  Aqueduct,  which  is  on 
the  way  to  the  Town  of  the  Ten  Saints ;  the  Canal  of  this  Aqueduct  was 
barely  a  foot  broad. 

•  Hift. Phot.       '  THEOPHRASTVS,  '  Varro,  and  '  Pliny,  fpeak  of  a  Plane-Tree 
=  d  ReRuf  wmch  was  at  Gortyna,  and  which  ufed  to  Hied  its  Leaves  according  as 

•  lie-  new  ones  fprouted  forth :  perhaps  there  are  ftill  fome  of  this  kind  to  be 
l'liTn  cap'  1  found  among  thole  which  grow  numerous  along  the  River  Lethe,  which 
4  soiin.  Poly-  Europa  fwam  up  as  far  as  Gortyna,  on  the  back  of  her  4  Bull.  This  Plane- 
-  * '  ■  ■■„  Tree,  always  green,  was  thought  lb  odd  a  thing  by  the  Greeks,  s  that 
$sk&i jtuivi  they  gave  out  that  the  firft  Loves  of  Jupiter  and  Europa  were  tranfacted 
fsSlTzsuf.  under  the  fhade  thereof.  This  Adventure,  however  fabulous,  was  what 
Theoph.  ibid.  jn  ajj  appearance  gave  occafion  to  the  Inhabitants  of  Gortyna  to  ftrike 
'  Legend.  a  '  Medal,  which  is  in  the  King's  Cabinet,  with  Europa  on  one  fide,  fir- 
ms', ting  melancholy  on  a  Tree,  partly  the  Plane  and  partly  the  Palm- Tree, 

*  at 


Description  of  the  I/land  of  Candia.  4p 

at  the  foot  whereof  is  an  Eagle,  to  which  fhe  turns  her  back :  the  fame  Letter  II. 
Princefs  is  reprefented  on  the  other  fide,  fitting  on  a  Bull  encornpafs'd  ^^r^j 
with  a  Border  of  Bay-leaves.     Antonius  Augujlinus,  Archbifhop  of  Tar-  Dialog.  t. 
ragona,-  takes  notice  of  the  like  Type.     Pliny  lays,  Endeavours  were  ufed 
to  multiply  in  the  Iflaiid  the  Species  of  this  Plane-Tree ;  but  it  dege- 
nerated :  that  is  to  fay,  thofe  of  the  new  Plantation  fried  their  Leaves  in 
Winter,  as  well  as  the  ordinary  Planes. 

THERE  are  yet  extant  Medals  of  Gortyna,  ftruck  with  the  Heads 
of  Germanics,  Caligula,  Trajan,  Adrian,  the  '  faireft  of  which  is  to  be  '  Legend. 
feen  in  the  King's  Cabinet :  it  tells,  that  they  ufed  to  aiTemble  at  Gortyna,  kpht°n 
to  celebrate  the  publick  Games  in  honour  of  Adrian.  roprrs. 

BESIDES  the  Infcriptions  of  Gortyna  reported  by  Gruterus,  which 
Honorio  Belli,  Author  of  lbme  Letters  to  Clufius,  concerning  the  Cretan 
Plants,  had  communicated  to  Pigafeta,  we  copy'd  two,  which  had  efcaped 
the  Inveftigation  of  Belli. 

ryh  erpoNXQNTiPOBON'  rC 

^TO.NLAAMHPOTAT  0  yj/ 

ANQTTlAr  ON  JKA2/2> 

ATJO  TTlAPXOJSniEAJTOJTIQN 

Is  VjOPTT.NIWKTBOX^HC 

OJKOTMeMOCAOCI0€OC 
AOKAHTUOAOTO  C  £P 
OAAMT1P  0  TAT  0  C  Y  71AT I 

KO  CAtfSCT  HC€N^T 

B  Y  Decree  of  the  lllufinous  Senate  of  Gortyna,  Oecumenius  Dofitheus 
Afclepiodotus  of  the  mott  lllujlrious  Confulary  Dignity,  erecled  this  Monu- 
ment to  the  mofl  Muflrious  Proconful  and  Prefectus  Pretorius,  Petronius 
Probus. 

HERE  follows  one  that  is  not  fo  antient. 
Vol.I.  H  Enr. 


$o  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant 


4GuI0€:0AUP0TTOTAriCO^^Xr€niCK: 

K^TUATOTT  OT nePIB^NGTTlATO  T 
erTYXC0CAN^e0J>0HKOT.,.OTOIY0C 

fo^Tl  nicOWOCTOTAAM^INA^  + 

•  oftUccn-      THE  Reverend  Father  '  Bernard  de Montfaucon,  a  Perfbn  of  profound 
s^Maur?       Learning,  and  of  a  univerfally-allow'd  Capacity,  has  found  out  the  true 

Palaeog.  Grace.  ~      r     tUelpQe 
lib.  2.  p.  175.  SemC    Ulcrcul* 

'E7n  ©t<a5b'§8  T»  aytoTara  a.p;£e7n<rjto7ra  fc,  A.  niAi's  to  zreg(6A£7rfs  av,9u7raTS 
ttTVX&  avevtco^n  Kou  ....  0  Torj/ps  -ccrocTS  *A«6/s  'A7r7ri'6)V0?  to  Aa^7rgoTaT» 
ivtas^i's  B. 

THIS  Wall  was  hazily  rebuilt  under  the  mott  Holy  Archbifhop  Theodo- 
rus,  and  under  the  Illufirious  Proconful  A.  Pilius,  in  the  fecond  Tear  of  the 
Confulate  of  the  most  Illufirious  Fl.  Appion. 

MOST  of  the  other  Infcriptions  which  are  in  the  Fields  thereabouts, 
are  either  fra&ur'd,  or  Co  worn  away,  that  there's  no  decyphering  'em# 
The  Seafon  advancing  apace,  and  the  mofl  favourable  time  of  the  Year 
for  Simpling  being  come,  we  were  obliged  to  quit  Gortyna,  without  being 
jui-.  Geo*,      able  to  examine  its  antient  Ports.     According  to  Strabo,  the  chief  was  at 
^  10*         Lebene,  ninety  Stadia  from  the  Town,  towards  the  South,  which  is  ex- 
actly true  :  for  they  reckon  but  thirteen  Miles  from  the  Ruins  of  Gortyna 
to  the  Sea,  and  twenty  four  Miles  from  the  laid  Ruins  to  Candia.     The 
other  Port  of  Gortyna  was  at  Metallum,  within  fixteen  Miles  of  the  Town, 
and  more  to  the  Weft  than  Lebene ;  for  the  Lebenians  were  Neighbours 
to  the  Praifians,  a  People  beyond  Girapetra,    and  confequently  to  the 
South-eaft  of  Gortyna.     Strabo  has  fb  well  mark'd  the  Situation  of  molt 
of  the  Towns  of  Crete,  that  it  would  be  an  eafy  matter  to  find  them  out : 
and  yet  our  Geographers  are  very  erroneous  in  placing  them. 

THE  firft  of  July,  after  we  had  furnim'd  our  felves  with  Flambeaux 

■  Protopapas.  at  the  '  Arch-Prieft's,  we  fet  forward  to  fee  the  Labyrinth;     This  famous 

#/AcIL'ia.TH  Place  is  a  fubterranean  PafTage  in  manner  of  a  Street,  which  by  a  thou- 

fand  Intricacies  and  Windings,  as  it  were  by  mere  chance,  and  without 

the 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Candia.  5 1 

the  leafl  regularity,  pervades  the  whole  Cavity  or  Infide  of  a  little  Hill  Letter  II. 
at  the  foot  of  Mount  Ida,  Southward,  three  miles  from  Gortyna.  utT'V^hj 

THE  Entrance  into  this  Labyrinth  is  by  a  natural  Opening,  (even  or 
eight  paces  broad,  but  fo  low,  that  even  a  middle-fiz'd  Man  can't  pafs 
through  without  {looping.  The  Flooring  of  this  Entrance  is  very  rugged 
and  unequal ;  the  Cieling  fiat  and  even,  terminated  by  divers  Beds  of 
Stone,  laid  horizontally  one  upon  another.  The  firft  thing  you  come  at, 
is  a  kind  of  Cavern  exceeding  ruftick,  and  gently  (loping  :  in  this  there 
is  nothing  extraordinary,  but  as  you  move  forward,  the  place  is  perfectly 
iurprizing ;  nothing  but  Turnings  and  crooked  By-ways.  The  principal 
Alley,  which  is  lels  perplexing  than  the  reft,  in  length  about  1 200  paces, 
leads  to  the  further  end  of  the  Labyrinth,  and  concludes  in  two  large  beau- 
tiful Apartments,  where  Strangers  reft  themfelves  with  pleafure.  Tho  this 
Alley  divides  it  felf,  at  its  extremity,  into  two  or  three  Branches,  yet  the 
dangerous  part  of  the  Labyrinth  is  not  there,  but  rather  at  its  Entrance, 
about  fome  thirty  paces  from  the  Cavern  on  the  left  hand.  If  a  Man  ftrikes 
into  any  other  Path,  after  he  has  gone  a  good  way,  he  is  bewilder'd  among 
a  thoufand  Twiftings,  Twinings,  Sinuofities,  Crinkle-Crankles,  and  Turn- 
again  Lanes,  that  he  could  fcarce  ever  get  out  again  without  the  utmoft 
danger  of  being  loft.  Our  Guides  therefore  chofe  this  principal  Alley 
without  deviating  either  to  the  right  or  left :  in  traverfing  this  Alley,  we 
mealur'd  1160  good  Paces;  it  is  from  feven  to  eight  foot  high,  ciel'd 
with  a  Stratum  of  Rocks,  horizontal  and  quite  flat,  as  are  mod  Beds  of 
Stone  in  thofe  parts.  And  yet  there  are  fome  places  where  a  Man  mud: 
ftoop  a  little :  nay,  about  the  middle  of  the  Route,  you  meet  with  a 
PafTage  fo  very  ftrait  and  low,  that  you  muft  creep  upon  all  four  to  get 
along.  Generally  (peaking,  the  grand  Walking-place  is  broad  enough  for 
three  or  four  to  go  a-breaft :  its  Pavement  is  fmooth,  not  many  Ups  nor 
Downs  :  the  Walls  are  either  cut  perpendicular,  or  made  of  Stones  which 
formerly  choak'd  up  the  PafTage,  and  which  are  difpos'd  with  a  ftudy'd 
regularity ;  but  fo  many  Alleys  offer  themfelves  on  all  fides,  that  you 
muft  take  the  utmoft  care  how  you  proceed. 

BEING  beforehand  refolv'd  to  make  the  beft  of  our  way  out  of  this 
(iibterranean  Maze,  our  firft  Care  was  to  poft  one  of  our  Guards  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Cavern,  with  order  to  fetch  People  from  the  next  Town, 

H  2  to 


IM 


t'2  ^f  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

to  come  and  help  us  out,  in  cafe  we  return'd  not  before  night :  in  the 
fecond  place,  each  of  us  carry'd  a  large  lighted  Flambeau  in  his  hand  : 
thirdly,  at  every  difficult  Turning  we  faften'd  on  the  right  hand  Scrolls 
of  Paper  numbcr'd :  fourthly,  one  of  our  Guides  dropt  on  the  left  fmall 
bundles  of  Thorns,  and  another  fcatter'd  Straw  all  the  way  on  the 
ground.  In  this  manner  we  got  fafe  enough  to  the  further  end  of  the 
Labyrinth,  where  the  grand  Walk  divides  it  felf  into  two  or  three  Bran« 
ches,  and  where  there  are  likewife  two  Rooms  or  Apartments,  almoft 
round,  about  four  Tories  in  breadth,  cut  in  the  Rock.  Here  are  divers 
Infcriptions  made  with  Charcoal ;  fuch  as  Father  Francifco  Maria  Pefaro, 
Capuchin.  Frater  Tadeus  Nicolaus  ;  and  over  againfl  it, - 1 5  39.  Further  on, 
1444  ;  as  likewife,  Qui  fu  el  firenuo  Signor  Zjn  de  Como  cap™  de  la  Fas- 
ter i  a  1  526  :  in  Englijb,  Here  was  the  valiant  Signor  John  de  Como,  Captain 
of  Foot,  1 5  26.  In  the  grand  Walk  there  are  alio  great  numbers  of  Cyphers 
and  other  Marks ;  among  the  reft,  that  which  is  in  the  Margin,  which 
feem'd  to  be  put  by  fbme  Jeluit.  We  oblerv'd  the  following  Dates, 
1495,  1560,  1579,  1699.  We  too  wrote  the  Year  of  the  Lord  1700, 
in  three  different  places,  with  a  black  Stone.  Among  thefe  Writings 
Hiftory  of  the  there  are  fbme  really  wonderful :  This  corroborates  the  Syftem  propos'd 
^"fsciencT  by  me  f°me  Years  ago,  concerning  the  Vegetation  of  Stones,  which  in 
A»no  1702.  thiS  Labyrinth  increafe  and  grow  fenfibly,  without  being  fufpe&ed  to 
receive  the  leafl  adventitious  Matter  from  without.  When  the  Perlbns 
were  graving  their  Names  on  the  Walls  of  this  place,  which  are  of  living 
Rock,  little  did  they  imagine  that  the  Furrowings  wrought  by  their  Pen- 
knives would  be  infenfibly  filPd  up,  and  in  time  adorn'd  with  a  fort  of 
Embroidery,  about  a  line  high  in  fbme  places,  and  near  three  lines  in 
others :  lb  that  thefe  Characters,  inftead  of  being  hollow  and  concave,  as 
they  were  at  firft,  are  now  turn'd  convex,  and  come  out  of  the  Rock 
like  BafTo-Relievo.  The  Matter  of  them  is  white,  tho  the  Stone  they 
ifTue  from  is  greyifh.  1  look  upon  this  BaiTo-Relievo  to  be  a  kind  of 
Callofity  form'd  by  the  nutritious  Juice  of  the  Stone,  extravafated  by 
little  and  little  into  the  above-mention'd  Channellings  made  by  the 
Graver,  like  as  Callofities  are  form'd  at  the  extremities  of  the  Fibres  of 
broken  Bones. 

HAVING 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Candia.  53 

HAVING  taken  thefc  precautions,  \x  was  eafy  enough  to  find  our  Letter  II. 
way  out :  but  after  a  thorow  Examination  of  the  Structure  of  this  Laby-  ^^^  ^^ 
rinth    we  all  concur'd  in  opinion,  that  it  could  never  have  been  what 
Belonius  and  fome  other  of  the  Moderns  have  fancy'd ;  namely,,  an  an-  °M<*».  •">• «« 

cap.  o« 

tient  Quarry,  out  of  which  were  dug  the  Stones  that  built  the  Towns  of 
Gortyna  and  Gnojfus.  Is  it  likely  they  would  go  for  Stone  above  a  thou- 
fand  paces  deep,  into  a  place  Co)  full  of  odd  Turnings,  that  'tis  next  to 
impoffible  to  dif-entangle  one's  felf  ?  Again,  how  could  they  draw  thefe 
Stones  through  a  place  fo  pinch'd  in,  that  we  were  forc'd  to  crawl  our 
way  out  for  above  a  hundred  paces  together  ?  Befides,  the  Mountain 
is  fb  cragoy  and  full  of  Precipices,  that  we  had  all  the  difficulty  in  the 
world  to  ride  up  it. 

WE  look'd  about  for  the  Cart- ruts  mention'd  by  Belonius,  but  all  to 
no  purpofe.     It  is  likewife  obfervable,  that  the  Stone  of  this  Labyrinth 
has  neither  a  good  Hue  nor  a  competent  Hardnefs;   it  is  downright 
dingy,  and  rel'embling  that  of  the  Mountains  near  which  Gortyna  flands. 
As  for  the  Town  of  Gnojfus,  it  was  at  a  diftance  from  this  Labyrinth,  Smb.  iter. 
towards  the  Northern  Coaft  of  Crete,  about  3125  paces  from  Gortyna,  be- 
yond the  Mountains  ftretching  towards  Candia,  adjoining  to  fbme  '  poor  '  K^a?- 
Gutter  of  Water,  on  the  Banks  whereof  were  celebrated  the  Nuptials  of  &im.  Diod. 
Jupiter  and  Juno.     Belonius,  of  all  Men,  might  have  determin'd  the  Si-  HjftfJJ°?"' 
tuation  of  Gnojfus ;  he  who  boafts  of  having  feen  the  Tomb  of  *  Jupiter,  *  obr.  lib.  1. 
juft  as  'tis  defcrib'd  by  the  Antients :  that  Tomb  mutt  certainly  have  sepukhrum 
been  in  the  Town  of  Gnoffus :  and  according  to  Belonius's  Route  from  eius  eft  in  Cie- 

•£  ta,  in  oppido 

Candia  to  Mount  Ida,  Gnojjus  was  in  his  way.  Cnoflb.  Lac- 

IT  is  therefore  much  more  probable,  that  the  Labyrinth  is  a  natural  ""£'  ^  u 
Cavity,  which  in  times  paft  fome  body  out  of  curiofity  took  a  fancy 
to  try  what  they  could  make  of,  by  widening  molt  of  thofe  Paflages 
that  were  too  much  flraitned.  To  raife  the  Cieling  of  it,  they  only  took 
down  fome  Beds  of  Stone,  which  quite  throughout  the  Mountain  are 
horizontally  pofited  •,  in  fbme  places  they  cut  the  Walls  plumb  down, 
and  in  clearing  the  PafTages,  they  took  care  to  place  the  Stones  very 
orderly.  The  reafon  why  they  meddled  not  with  that  narrow  Neck 
mention'd  before,  was  perhaps  to  let  Pofterity  know  how  the  reft  were 
naturally  made ;  for  beyond  that  place  the  Alley  is  as  beautiful  as  on  this 

■x  fide 


^  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

fide  it.  It  would  be  a  difficult  task  to  rid  away  the  Stones  beyond ;  unlefs 
they  were  broke  to  pouder,  they  could  never  be  brought  through  this  gut- 
like PafTage.  The  antient  Cretans,  who  were  a  very  polite  People,  and 
ftrongly  devoted  to  the  fine  Arts,  took  a  particular  pleafure  in  flnifhing  what 
had  been  but  sketch'd  out  by  Nature.  Doubtlefs  iome  Shepherds  having 
difcover'd  thefe  fubterranean  Conduits,  gave  occafion  to  more  confiderable 
People  to  turn  it  into  this  marvellous  Maze,  to  ferve  for  an  Afylum  in  the 
Civil  Wars,  or  to  skreen  themfelves  from  the  Fury  of  a  Tyrannical  Govern- 
ment :  at  prefent  'tis  only  a  Retreat  for  Bats  and  the  like.  This  place  is 
extremely  dry,  not  the  lead  Water- fall,  Congelation,  nor  Drein  to  be  feen : 
we  were  told,  that  in  the  Hills  nigh  the  Labyrinth  there  were  two  or  three 
other  natural  Openings  of  a  vail:  depth  in  the  Rock,  which  they  may 
try  the  lame  experiments  upon,  if  they  have  a  mind.  Through  the  whole 
Ifland  there  are  a  world  of  Caverns,  and  moll  of  quick  Rock;  efpecially 
in  Mount  Ida,  there  are  holes  you  may  run  your  head  in,  bored  through 
and  through :  many  very  deep  perpendicular  AbyfTes  are  feen  there  ; 
may  there  not  be  alio  many  fubterranean  horizontal  Conduits?  efpe- 
cially in  fuch  places  where  the  Lays  of  Stone  are  horizontal  upon  one 
another. 

I  QJU  E  S  T I O  N  not  but  they  who  in  France  dug  the  Amphitheatre 
LipfiusdeAm-  of  Douvai  near  the  Font  de  Ce,  were  invited  thereto  by  fbme  Cavern  open 
at  top,  like  the  mouth  of  a  Well :  the  Beauty,  or  perhaps  the  Oddnefs  of 
the  Place,  put  'em  upon  enlarging  it,  and  forming  it  like  an  Amphitheatre, 
whofe  Outfide  is  all  cover'd  with  Earth,  except  the   Entrance.     This 
Work  is  as  wonderful  in  its  kind,  as  the  Labyrinth  of  Candia  ;  which,  by 
the  way,  People  mult  not  believe  to  be  that  which  the  Antients  fpeak 
■  Bibiiotii.Hift.  of.     '  Diodorm  Siculus.  and  *  Pliny  tell  us,  there  was  not  the  lead  foot- 
*  Hift.  Nat.     ftep  of  it  remaining  in  their  time.     It  was  made  after  the  model  of  the 
^•r^  "P-1 3-  Labyrinth  of  Egypt,  one  of  the  fainoufeft  Fabricks  in  the  world,  embel- 
foipt.  Grax.in  lifh'd  at  the  Entrance  with  a  great  number  of  Pillars,  and  a  hundred 
in  Thefeo.    '  times  bigger  than  this  of  Crete,  which  from  antique  Medals  appears  to 
have  been  in  the  Town  of  Gnoffm.     It's  pretty  plain,  that  the  Labyrinth 
which  flill  fubfilts  in  Candia,  was  known  to  the  following  Authors.     CV- 
Compend.Hift.  drenus  fays,  that  Tbefeus  palling  into  Crete,  at  the  requeft  of  the  Sena- 
tors of  Gortyna,  the  Minotaur,  feeing  himfelf  forfaken,  and  going  to  be 

*  deliver'd 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Candia.  5  5 

deliver'd  up,  went  and  hid  in  one  of  the  Caverns  of  a  certain  place  Letter  II. 
call'd  the  Labyrinth.  The  Author  of  the  grand  Greek  Dictionary  re-  ^^s^"* 
ports,  that  the  Labyrinth  of  Crete  was  a  Mountain  full  of  nothing  but  t*Kw» vnet^ 
Caverns  ;  and  the  Bifhop  of  Candia,  George  Alexander,  quoted  by  Vola-  owk<uw.  Er/- 
terranus,  defcribes  it  not  only  as  a  hollow  Mountain,  but  made  fo  by™'^^1' 
manual  Labour;  and  not  to  be  perambulated  without  a  Guide,  and 
lighted  Flambeaux,  by  reafon  of  its  infinite  Variety  of  Turnings. 

THE  7th  of  July  we  lay  at  Novi-Cafielli,  at  the  Houfe  of  Signior 
Gieronimo,  where  we  had  dined  in  our  way  to  Gortyna.  He  fhew'd  us  a 
piece  of  Antiquity,  wonderfully  well  fancy'd  :  'tis  a  Head  of  a  Ramy 
adorn'd  with  Feftoons,  which  was  found  among  the  Ruins  of  that  fa- 
mous Place. 

THE  8th  of  July  we  travel'd  24 miles,  to  get  to  the  Monaftery  of  Afo~ 
matos,  and  next  day  we  went  on  to  the  Mountain  of  Kjntro,  being  told  K^7e?. 
of  a  hundred  and  one  Springs  ifluing  from  it :  may  not  this  be  the  Moun- 
tain Tbeopbrajlus  calls  Kjdrios,  and  which  he  places  very  near  Mount  Ida  ?  K«JW  The-; 
In  truth,  this  Mountain  is  not  above  four  miles  from  the  Monaftery  of  pfant.  lib;  3. 
Afomatos,  feparated  from  Mount  Ida  by  the  Valley  we  have  been  ipeakingcap"'5* 
of,  which  lofes  it  felf  in  the  Plain  of  Majferia  or  Meffaria,  according  to 
the  Greek  Pronunciation.     Kjntro  is  a  bare  dry  Mountain  to  look  at, 
tho  it  fends  forth  many  fine  Springs  of  Water,  which  take  their  courfo 
to  a  large  Village  call'd  Brices,  on  account  of  the  faid  Springs :  here  we 
lay,  and  were  very  much  pleas'd  with  our  Difcoveries.     We  went  back  to 
Afomatos,  to  fetch  our  Baggage,  and  lay  fix  miles  from  thence  in  the  Con^ 
vent  of  Arcadi.     The  '  Arhute-Tree  of  Greece,  a  Plant  we  had  till  then  ■  Arbutus  folio 
fought  in  vain,    rejoic'd  us  not  a  little :    it  grows  between  thofe  two  cB^vin.^o. 
Monafleries,  in  the  chinks  of  a  Rock  on  the  High- way.     Here  is  one  AdrachneThe-- 

....  .         ..    ,  _        ,  ophrafti,  Cluf, 

of  the  belt  places  for  herborizing  in  all  the  Illand. .  Hift.  48. 

I  FORGOT  to  tell  that  at  Brices  we  Jodg'd  with  an  old  Papas,  very 
zealous  for  his  Way  of  Worfliip,  and  wretchedly  ignorant.  He  would 
have  periuaded  us  in  his  Balderdafh  Italian,  that  there  was  an  antient  Pro- 
phecy wrote  on  the  Walls  of  the  Labyrinth,  importing  that  the  Czar  of 
Mufcovywzs  very  foon  to  be  Mafter  of  the  Ottoman  Empire,  and  deliver 
the  Greeks  from  the  Slavery  of  the  Turks  ;  adding,  that  he  very  well 
remembred,  when  the  Siege  of  Candia  was  carrying  on,  a  certain  Greek 

afTur'd 


c6  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

aflur'd  the  Vifier  Cuperli  that  he  mould  take  the  Place,  according  to  ano- 
ther Prophecy  of  this  fame  Labyrinth.  Whatever  Scrawlings  are  made 
upon  the  Walls  of  the  Labyrinth  by  Travellers,  thefe  Simpletons  fwallow 
down  for  Prophecies. 

A  T  our  Return  to  Retimo,  we  were  told,  that  then  was  the  Harveft- 
-  a  pmgufed  time  for  '  Ladanum:  and  if  we  had  a  mind  to  fee  it,  we  might  go  to 

by  the  Afcthe-  '  °        ° 

caries  and  per-  Melidoni,  a  pretty  Village  lying  to  the  Sea,  22  miles  from  Retimo  :  we 

lay  there  the  2  2d  of  July  at  a  Papas,  to  whom  we  were  recommended  by 

Dr.  Patelaro.    This  Papas  promis'd  to  mew  us  all  the  Curiofities  of  the 

Country,  and,  erpecially,  an  Infcription  as  you  go  into  a  Cavern  near 

that  Town.     The  next  day  we  were  mortify'd  at  the  Proceeding  of  a 

1  soubachi,  or "  Turk,  who  was  gathering  the  ?  Tythe  in  thofe  parts,  and  whom  we  were 

cieri;>  subde-  afraid  to  invite  to  Supper,  becaufe  we  had  nothing  to  eat  but  a  Pig.     This 

legate.  T^k   underflandins    our   Defien,    came   to  the  Papas,    and   forbid  him 

3  Decatie  in  "  r  it 

Lingua.  Fran-  mewing  us  to  that  Cavern,  laying  we  were  Spies,  and  that  we  made  re- 
DLme,"?!'.:-  marks  on  every  thing  •  that  he  had  been  infonn'd  the  very  Trees  and 
>J,rn,  <«  A>r   Plants  did  not  efcape  us ;  and  that  he  would  not  let  us  proceed  in  this 
tum  decimae    manner,  or  fuffer  us  to  go  and  confalt  thole  old  Marbles  fill'd  with  Prophe- 
cies relating  to  the  Grand  Signior  :  Though  I  caus'd  him  to  be  told  over 
and   over  again,  that  we  were  profefs'd  Phyficians ;  that  all  we  defir'd, 
was  to  oblige  the  People  of  the  Country,  by  diftributing  to  them  our 
Medicaments  gratis  ;  and  that  if  we  took  Draughts  of  the  Plants,  'twas 
purely  for  our  own  Inftxuc'tion,  and  'twas  what  could  not  poflibly  do  any 
hurt  to  any  body.     He  did  not  value  what  we  laid,  but  threaten'd  both 
the  Papas,  and  all  the  other  Greeks  of  the  Town,  with  tne  Baflinado. 
*&py*(fMi<>u  Our  4  Interpreter  in  vain  reprefented  to   him,  that  we  were  Frenchmen, 
nsi^Tae-    who  were  come  to  Melidoni  out  of  curio fity  to  fee  how  the  Ladanum  was 
ma^Dra.'-uf- !  gather'd,  and  that  we  fhould  be  very  glad  to  fee  the  other  Rarities  of  the 
man,  Drago-   Country.     Upon  this,  I  took  one  of  our  Guides  by  the  hand,  that  he 

man,  Tiuche-  *  ,  *■  '  J  7 

man.  might  fliew  us  to  the  Cavern,  hoping  to  find  in  that  Infcription  the  Name 

of  fbme  antient  City,  on  whofe  Ruins  Melidoni  was  founded.  We  pleas'd 
our  felves  hugely  with  the  very  thoughts  of  it :  but  our  Guide  could  not 
be  prevail'd  on  to  ftir  a  (lep,  any  more  than  the  People  of  the  Place, 
who  trembled  like  Criminals  fentenc'd  to  Death.  The  Turk  did  but 
laugh  at  'em  •  he  caus'd  them  to  tell  me,  that  tho  indeed  he  had  no 

power 


av.  r. 


^V-^7 


Defcription  of  the  Ijland  of  Candia.  57 

power  over  us,  yet  he  had  over  the  Greeks,  and  he'd  make  'em  know  it :  Letter  II. 
adding,   that  if  we  were  minded  to  buy  Ladanum,  we  need  not  take  the 
pains  to  go  to  the  place,  for  that  he  would  lend  for  lbme  of  the  belt. 
After  which,  he  repeated  his  Prohibitions,  and  charg'd  'em  more  elpe- 
cially  not  to  inform  us  how  they  prepar'd  that  Drug.     Seeing  the  Man 
lb  obflinate,  we  e'en  went  into  the  Papas's  Houfe,  to  pack  up  our  things, 
and  be  gone.     However,  I  defir'd  they  would  fell  us  the  '  Inflrument  they  '  *e?>«;-»«  «j 
ule  in  gathering  the  Ladanum.     It  is  a  fort  of  Whip  with  a  long  Handle,  influent': 
with  two  Rows  of  Straps,  as  you  fee  it  reprefented  in  the  Figure.     The  '^f'J^ff 
poor  Greeks  were  fb  intimidated  with  the  Waiwod's  Menaces,  they  did  *  sll°p or  * 
not  dare  to  fell  it  without  his  leave.     We  whiiper'd  'em  to  bring  it  pri-  Bum-Bailies 
vately,  and  put  it  under  the  Garden-Gate ;  fay  what  we  would  to  'em,  itf^h0f  E£££ 
figuify'd  nothing,  fuch  an  Awe  had  the  Officer  over  'em.  P'?s  "  f4""* 

°      *  a  -when  they 

WHILE  this  was  palling,  a  Mefienger  came  to  us  from  a  Papas, have  hdg'd 
who  happen'd  to  break  a  Leg  fome  few  days  before  :  we  told  him  what  ^2  £  on» 
he  was  to  do  to  get  cured,  and  then  went  back  to  our  People.     The  {mbt  the? 

o  '  x.  borrow  jrorm 

other  Papas,  who  was  at  the  bottom  of  all  this,  came  and  told  us  with  the  Greek. 
a  pleafing  Afpect,  that  he  had  found  out  a  way  to  procure  us  two  of 
thofe  Whips,  notwithstanding  the  Prohibition  of  the  lurk  ;   that  thofe 
Inftruments  were  ufiially  fold  at  two  Crowns  a-piece,  but  in  regard  we 
were  Dr.  Patelard's  Friends,  we  fhould  have  'em  for  a  Crown  and  a  half. 
I  paid  him  three  Crown-pieces  in  prefence  of  the  Turk,  who  flill  con- 
tinu'd  fretting  and  fuming,  teeth  outwards.     As  for  going  to  the  Cavern, 
the  Papas  told  us  it  was  not  a  practicable  thing,  becaufe  the  Officer  really 
believ'd  there  were  fome  Prophecies  there,  which  concern'd  the  State : 
but  as  for  the  Ladanum-Bufmefs,    he   would  himfelf  conduct:  us  a  By- 
way,  and   the  Turk   know  nothing  of  the  matter.     Not   in   the    leafl 
diftrufting  this  Priefl's  Sincerity,  I  afTur'd  him  we  would  not  fail  to  gra- 
tify him  for  his  trouble  ;  and  thereupon  we  took  horfe,  and  follow'd  after 
him :  but  we  were  fcarce  gone  a  quarter  of  a  League,  e'er  the  Turk  came 
up  with  us  florming  like  a  Fury,  threatning  the  Papas  .with  the  Baftinado, 
and   that    he   would  inftantly   let  the  *  Aga  of  that  Precinct  know  of1  Comma«- 
his  favouring  of  Spies.     Our  Papas,  who  was  mounted  on  a  very  hand-      " 
fome  Mule,  anfwer'd  him  like  a  Bravo,  he  might  write  what  he  would 
to  the  Aga.    We  went  forward  on  our  way,  looking  out  fharp  for  fome 
Vol.  1.  I  curious 


58 


A  Vo  y  A  a  e  into  the  Levant. 


curious  Plant  or  other ;  but  a  while  after,  this  long  carrot-bearded  Trick- 
fler  bid  our  Convoy  tell  us,  that,  to  ferve  us,  he  expos'd  himfelf  not 
only  to   the  Infamy  of  the  Baftinade,    but  likewife  to  the  Forfeiture 
of  all  he  was  worth.     I  made  anfwer,  we  had  better  go   back,  for  that 
we  mould  be  very  forry  to  fee  him  a  Sufferer  in  any  wife  on  our  account. 
After  fome  formal  Argumentations,  it  was  agreed  we  fhruld  give  him 
three  Crown-pieces,  one  for  himfelf,  and  a  couple  to  appeafe  the  Wai- 
wode.     This  gave  us  a  fufpicion  there  was  a  Fellow-feeling  between  him 
and  the  Turk,  and  that   they  jointly  contrivM  to  worm  us  out  of  this 
Mony :  The  Greeks  have  not  quite  forgot  thofe  ways  of  their  Forefa- 
fyhkfui  xj    thers  in  this  Ifland,  which  Plutarch  calls  Cretifm.     The  Knavery  of  this 
n'Sn'pIuio  Fellow  was  grofs  :  he  had  been  better  paid,  and  we  mould  have  thought 
Xvt-'r       <  him  an  honeft  Man  into  the  bargain,  if  he  had  gone  and  given  the  Turk 
xjJTaj.  suid.  the  two  Crowns  when  firft  he  fpoke  to  him,  to  prevent  his  writing  to 
the  Aga. 

"TRAVELLING  on  towards  the  Sea,  we  at  length  found  our  felves 
Kfeupfr  among  thofe  dry  fandy  Hillocks,  overfpread  with  the  little  Shrubs  that 
yield  the  Ladanum.  It  was  in  the  Heat  of  the  Day,  and  not  a  Breath  of 
Wind  ftirring ;  Circumftances  neceffary  to  the  gathering  of  Ladanum. 
Seven  or  eight  Country-Fellows  in  their  Shirts  and  Drawers  were  brufh- 
ing  the  Plants  with  their  Whips  ;  the  Straps  whereof,  by  rubbing  againft 
the  Leaves  of  this  Shrub,  lick'd  up  a  fort  of  odoriferous  Glue  flicking  on 
the  Leaves :  'tis  part  of  the  nutritious  Juice  of  the  Plant,  which  fweats 
through  the  Texture  of  thofe  Leaves  like  a  fatty  Dew,  in  fhining  Drops, 
as  clear  as  Turpentine. 

WHEN  the  Whips  are  fufficiently  laden  with  this  Greafe,  they  take 
a  Knife,  and  fcrape  it  clean  off  the  Straps,  and  make  it  up  into  a  Mafs 
or  Cakes  of  different  fize :  this  is  what  comes  to  us  under  the  name  of 
!  a*  Oque-  La  Annum  or  Labdanum.  A  Man  that's  diligent  will  gather  '  three  Pounds 
two  Ounces  per  day,  and  more,  which  they  fell  for  a  Crown  on  the  fpot : 
this  fort  of  Work  is  rather  unpleafant  than  laborious,  becaufe  it  inuft  be 
done  in  the  fultry  time  of  the  Day,  and  in  the  deadefl  Calm  ;  and  yet  the 
pureft  Ladam<m  is  not  free  from  Filth,  becaufe  the  Winds  of  the  preceding 
days  have  blown  dull  upon  thefe  Shrubs.  To  add  weight  to  this  Drug, 
they  knead  it  up  with  a  very  fine  blackifh  Sand,  which  is  found  in  thofe 

*  parts ; 


Dtfcription  of  the  TJland  of  Candia.  59 

parts ;  as  if  Nature  her  felf  was  minded  to  teach  them  how  to  adulterate  Letter  II. 
this  Commodity.     It  is  no  eafy  matter  to  difcover  the  Cheat,  when  the  ,*-''~W-< 
Sand  has  been  well  blended  with  the  Ladanum  :  you  mull  chew  it  a  good 
while,  to  find  whether  it  crackles  between  the  teeth ;  or  elle  you  muft 
ftrain  it  after  you  have  difiblv'd  it,  in  order  to  purify  away  what  has  been 
added   to  it. 

THE'  Shrub  which  produces  the  Laianum.  is  full  of  Branches,  and  '  5:ftu!,La'Ja' 

r  «  mfera,  Cretica, 

riles  two  or  three  foot  high.     The  Flower  is  an  inch  and  a  half  diameter,  flore  purpm-eo. 
compos'd  of  five  roie-colour'd  Leaves,  ragged,  round,  though  narrow  at  Rei  Herb.  "19. 
firft,  mark'd  with  a  yellow  Speck,  and  oftentimes  torn  in  the  edges ;  Lajanum^n 
from  the  Centre  of  thefe  Leaves  arifes  a  numerous  train  of  yellow  Threds  Cieta  coVii'- 
or  finall  Chieves,  topt  with  a  fmall  Button  of  a  fillamot  colour  :  they  ferv.  lib."  1. 
inviron  a  Piftile  of  two  lines  in  length,  ending  in  a  Thred  rounded  at  its  SSanim  cre- 
extremity.     The  Cup  confifts  of  five  Leaves,  feven  or  eight  lines  long,  £Cum'8g-  AIp' 
oval,  veiny,  hairy  at  the  edges,  picked,    and  mofl  commonly  curvated 
downwards  :  when  the  Flower's  gone,  the  Piftile  or  Pcintal  is  chang'd 
into   a  Fruit    or  Cod  about  five  lines  long,    almoft  oval,  hard,  obtufe, 
brown,  cover'd  over  with  a  filky  Down,  wrapt  within  the  Leaves  of  the 
Cup,  divided   all  along  into  five  Apartments  or  Seed-VeiTels,  in  which 
are  contain'd  a  world  of  Seeds,  red,  angular  or  corner'd,  near  a  line  in 
diameter.     The  Root  of  this  Shrub  is  ligneous,  divided  into  thick  Fibres 
or  Sprigs  about  eight  or  nine  inches  in  length,  and  hairy  ;  the  infide  of 
the  Root  is  white,  the  Bark  is  reddilli  inwardly,  brown  outwardly,  and  full 
of  Chaps  as  well  as  the  Trunk.     This  Trunk  at  firft  is  divided  into  thick 
Branches,  about  the  compafs  of  one's  little  Finger,  hard,  brown,  greyifh, 
fubdivided  into   other  Branches  of  a  brick-colour,  bearing  Leaves  that 
grow  by  couples,  oblong,  of  a  dark  green,  wav'd  at  the  edges,  thick, 
veiny,  chagrin'd,  eight  or  nine  lines  in  breadth,  an  inch  or  fifteen  lines 
long,  blunt-pointed,  iupported  by  a  Pedicule  or  Stalk  three  or  four  lines 
long  and  one  broad ;  thole  next  the  Flowers  are  almoft  round,  and  their 
Pedicule  two  lines  broad.     The  whole  Plant  is  fbmewhat  ftiptick,  and 
taftcs  bwtriffl  :  it  thrives  at  Paris  in   the  King's  Garden,  and  much  re- 
lembl.  s  that  kind  of  Ciftus,  which  is  degenerated  from  that  *  Ciftus  which  ' Ciftl,s  mas. ' 

j  folio  Chamac- 

has   Germander  Leaves.     This  laft  fort  is  diftinguifti'd  by  the  Nerves  drys.   c.  b. 
crofling  the  length  of  its  Leaves.  .  Pin,4<S4- 

I  2  IN 


So  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

*  Herod. iib.3.      IN  the  time  of  Diofcorides,  and  '  before,  they  ufed  to   gather  the  La- 
quo*A,',„w    danum  not  only  with  Whips,  but  they  alio  were  careful  in  combing  off 
tobum/*     mch  °f  ic  as  was  f°un(l  flicking  to  the  Beards  and  Thighs  of  the  Goats, 
which  fed  upon  nothing  but  the  Leaves  of  the  Ciftus.     The  fame  Author 
AnAt.  Diofc.  has      ^  defcribed  this  Plant  under  the  name  of  Ledo». 

lib. I.  cap.  1 28. 

THIS,  my  Lord,  istheRefult  of  what  we  remarked  about  Melidoni : 
all  this  while  we  hanker'd  after  the  Cavern  and  Infcription ;  it  ran  in  my 
head,  that  the  antient  Name  of  this  Village  muft  be  mention'd  there,  and 
yet 'twas  nofuch  thing.     I  have  found  out  in  the  heart  of  Paris,  what  I 
was  not  able  to  fee  in  Candia.     Turning  over  Gruterns's  Collection  of 
Tag.  mixviii.    infcriptions,  I  lit  upon  that  of  the  Cavern  of  Melidoni,  when  I  lead 
aptemis  h  thought  of  it  J  it  fpeaks  of  one  Artemis  or  Sallonius,  offering  Sacrifice  to 
02.  Mercury  on  occafion  of  his  Wife's  Death.     This  being  a  thing  of  no  man- 

ner of  importance,  'twere  needlefs  to  fet  down  the  Infcription  here  •  it 
confifls  of  a  dozen  Verfes,  yet  fb  much  may  be  faid,  we  find  in  it  a 
'ovfix  t*a-  p0int  of  Geography,  namely,  That  Mount  Tallia,  which  Mercury  made 
vtia,  Ma«Ji(  the  place  of  his  Refidence,  and  which  had  given  a  Sirname  to  Jupiter 
iltl'tU  i  was  not  for  fr°m  Melidoni.  The  Cretans  held  thefe  two  Deities  in  great 
Zswfc*  KfiiTu-  veneration :  Jupiter  is  often  call'd  Cretan  and  Idean.  on  Medals  •  and  Mer- 

Hefycn.  ^    l  '  ' 

'£<&{  ivo.ua.    cury,  by  the  People  of  this  Ifland,  was  ftiled   the  Beneficent  God,  the 

jSEpt*?  Wte  Djftributor  of  Good  Things. 

tV**W|*«        THE   13th  of  July  we  took  up  our  Lodging  at  Veribolia,  a  fmall 

moi.mag.  Edit.  Town  a  mile  off  Retimo  ;  where  nothing's  to  be  feen  but  Gardens  pro- 
J  u^-P-3'7-  ducing  mofl;  excellent  Cucumbers.  In  vulgar  Greek  the  word  Periboli  fie 
nines  a  Garden.  The  14th  of  July  we  refted  at  Neocorio,  another  Town 
ten  miles  off  Jlmyron,  and  two  from  Stilo,  at  the  foot  of  huge  Moun- 
tains contiguous  to  thofe  of  la,  Sphacia :  a  fine  fort  of  Sage  grows  plen- 
tiful all  hereabouts. 

salvia  Craica,      IT  isa  Shrub  very  branchy,  about  two  or  three  foot  high;  the  Body 

frutefcens,  po-      .  .  1      j     i_        j-  •  1  i  ■  ■  O     '  J 

mifeta,  foiiis  01  it  is  crooked,  bending  in  and  out,  brittle,  two  inches  thick,  between 
ianfs&'cnipil"  red  and  yellow>  cover'd  with  a  grey  Bark,  chapt ;  divided  into  feveral 
Branches,  thick  as  one's  little  Finger,  fubdivided  into  Sprigs,  whofe 
Shoots  or  Buds  are  four-fquare,  that  grow  by  couples,  inclining  to  white, 
foft  like  Wool,  garnifh'd  with  Leaves,  which  likewifegrow  by  couples, 
two  inches  and  a  half  long,  fometimes  more,  about  an  inch  or  fifteen 

lines 


canis  Sc  crilp 
Corol.  Inft. 
ReiHerb.  10 


AV.J^ 


Myr.tfo. 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Candia.  6 1 

lines  in  breadth,  chagrin'd,  whitifh,  rugged,  neatly  vein'd,  fliff,  hard,  Letter  II. 
pointed  beneath,  fupported  on  a  Pedicule  or  Stalk  feven  or  eight  lines  long, 
cottony  and  ridgy.  The  Flowers  grow  like  an  Ear  of  Corn  in  Rows, 
very  clofe  together :  every  Flower  is  an  inch  or  fifteen  lines  long ;  it  is 
like  a  Pipe  whitifh,  four  or  five  lines  thick,  widen'd  into  two  Lips, 
whereof  the  upper  is  hollow'd  like  the  Bowl  of  a  Spoon,  hairy,  bluilh 
more  or  lefs,  eight  or  nine  lines  long.  The  undermoft  Lip  is  foraewhat 
longer,  flafh'd  into  three  parts,  the  two  outermoft  whereof  border  on 
the  Opening  which  is  between  the  two  Lips  ;  the  middlemoft  is  rounded, 
and  falls  down  like  a  Man's  Band  cut  Hoping  or  hollow,  rough,  bluilh, 
marbled,  flreak'd  with  white  towards  the  middle.  The  Chieves  (or  little 
Threds  Handing  out  of  the  Flowers)  are  whitifh,  divided  much  like  the 
Os  Hjoides  :  the  Piftile  or  Pointal,  which  bends  and  is  forky  in  the  upper 
Lip,  is  garnifh'd  with  four  Embrio's  in  its  lower  part,  which  turn  to  fo 
many  Seeds,  oval,  blackifb,  a  line  long.  The  Cup  is  a  Tube  half  an 
inch  long,  dark  green,  mix'd  with  purple,  irregularly  cut  into  five  points, 
widening  like  a  Bell. 

THIS  fort  of  Sage,  in  Smell  partakes  of  the  ordinary  Sage  and  La- 
vender. The  Buds  of  this  Plant,  being  wounded  by  the  fmall  Beak  or 
Sting  of  certain  Infedts,  fwell  up  into  Blifterings,  hard,  flefhy,  eight  or 
nine  lines  in  diameter,  almofl  fpherical,  afh-colour'd,  cottony,  of  an 
agreeable  tafte,  mofl  commonly  garnifh'd  with  fbme  Leaves  like  a  RufT: 
their  Flefh  is  hard,  and  fometimes  transparent  as  an  Icicle.  Thefe  Tu- 
mours or  Bladders  are  rais'd  by  the  nutritious  Juice  being  pour'd  out  from 
the  VefTels  or  Fibres,  which  were  fb  torn  by  the  Infect.  The  like  Tu-  Salvia  Cretica, 
mours  are  alfo  found  on  the  ordinary  Sage  of  Candia  :  they  carry  'em  to  auniiift.343. 
market,  where  they  fell  'em  by  the  name  of  Sage- Apples. 

THE  1 5  th  of  July,  after  rambling  about  thefe  Mountains,  we  repair'd 
to  another  'Town  of  the  fame  name,  three  miles  from  Canea  ;  and  con-  ■  Peribolia,  or 
tinuing  our  progrefs  towards  the  Eminences  cover'd  with  Snow,  we  there  Ivle(bl&llianj- 
met  with  more  Curiofities  of  the  Vegetable  Kind,  than  we  had  done 
throughout  the  reft  of  the  Ifland,  notwithflanding  all  the  care  and  pains 
it  had  cofl  us.  We  were  oblig'd  to  return  the  1 8  th  to  C&nea^  to  unlade 
our  Treafure,  and  to  fet  our  Plants  a  drying  in  frefh  Paper  :  after  which, 
we  could  not  forbear  revifiting  a  Country  fo  pronrifing  of  Difcoveries. 

But 


62  A  Voyage  into  iht  Levant. 

But  when  we  had  reach' d  the  Sumraities  where  we  hoped  to  find  fbme 
very  uncommon  things,  we  were  forc'd  to  give  over  our  defign  by  the 
Fog  and  Snow.  The  2  2d  of  July  we  began  our  Journey  to  the  Cape  des 
Grabufes. 

THE   23d  we  coafled  along  the  Shore,  in  fight  of  the.  Ifle  Saint  Odero 
•Plin.Hift.    or  St.  Theodore,  antiently  known  by  the  name  of1  Leuee.     We  lav  that 

Nat.  lib.  4-  .  ,  ,  *  • 

cap.  12.  night  at  Placatona  I  the  24th  we  pafs'd  through  Chifamo,  a  imall  Town  on 
1  Neocorio-  the  Sea-fide,  thirty  miles  from  Canea,  and  ftopt  at  a  poor  '  Village  two 
miles  beyond  Chifamo,  and  eight  miles  from  Cape  des  Grabufes.  Chifamo 
'Plin.Hift.  is  the  old  Town  of "'  Cifamum,  mention'd  by  Strabo,  Pliny,  and  Ptolemy, 
«p.' 12.         Here  was  eftabliih'd,   in  former  times,   the  4  twelfth  Bilhoprick  of  the 

Ki^ooj.Strab.    ^       , 
Rer.Geog.        iliaiia. 

lib.  10.  T  H  E  25th  of  July  we  rambled  about  the  Mountain  des  Grabufes,  and 

Leon? '  '  '  defcended  down  a  moft  horrible  Country  to  the  point  of  the  Cape,  and 
in  view  of  the  Fort  des  Grabufes,  built  upon  an  ill-favour'd  Rock,  ac- 
company'd  with  two  other  fmall  foriaken  Iflands.  There's  no  taking 
this  Fort  but  by  ftarving  it ;  nor  that  way  neither,  becaufe  as  on  the  one 
hand  whoever  would  prevent  its  re-vidtualling,  mull  keep  the  Sea  all  the 
Year  round  ;  fo  on  the  other,  the  North  Wind  would  hinder  their  ft 
doing  in  the  Winter.  The  Turks  had  a  good  Pennyworth  of -this  Place  : 
the  Venetian  Commander  Ibid  it  'em  fome  years  ago  for  a  Barrel  of  Se- 
quins ;  at  Conjlantinople  all  the  name  he  goes  by  is  Captain  Grabufe. 
This  Fort  was  one  of  the  three  Places  which  the  Republick  was  in  pof- 
fefTion  of,  belonging  to  the  Ifland  \  all  they  have  now,  is  la  Suda  and 
Spinalonga.  It  is  highly  probable,  the  Ifles  des  Grabufes  >  are  the  Ifles  of 
Poriper&  H^ft  C°rtce  and  Mjle->  f'nce  tne>"  are  oppofite  to  the  Peloponnefm,  or  Ifle  of 
Nat.  1.4.  c.i 2.  Pelops,  now  call'd  the  Morea,  from  the  vaft  number  of  Mulberry-Trees 
(in  Latin,  Moras)  that  have  been  planted  there. 

THERE'S  no  room  to  doubt,  that  the  Cape  des  Grabufes  is  the  Cape 
■'jA^MeA*  *  Cimaros  of  Strabo.  According  to  him,  the  Ifland  of  Crete  is  divided 
ReTGeog.  '  into  tw7o  Capes,  a  Southern,  call'd  the  Rani's '  Front,  and  a  Northern 
i'^°V  >w  call1 'd  Cimaros.  So  that  this  Name  can  luit  no  other  than  Cape  des  Gra- 
KfSf&mmr.  bufes,  or  Cape  Spada  ;  but  befides'  that  the  latter  is  neither  at  the  extre- 
mity of  the  Ifland,  nor  oppofite  to  the  Cape  of  the  Rain's  Front,  it  is 

^jnEwbr!  ceitaia  that  the  CaPe  fyad*  is  the  CaPc  ■  Vttfymea  of  Strabo,  fituate  on 
stiab.  ibid.  Mount 


Defcription  Jof  the  IJland  of  Candia.  6% 

Mount  Titytos  3  that  is,  on  the  Mountains    of  Canea,  where  flood  the  Letter  II. 

Temple  of  Diana  Duiynma.  *-<^v-^j 

TRISTANVS  and  Segainus  have  publifh'd  a  fine  Medal  of  Trajan  )    L^end. 

AIKTtnim  a 

on  the  Reverie  is  a  Woman  fitting  on  a  Mountain,  by  which  perhaps  is 
meant  Diana  on  Mount  Tityros,  or  on  the  '  Dittynnean  Mount,  which  I  ' Mons  Die- 
take  to  be  Cape  Spada.       lis  nottmoully  known,  that  Diana  was  ho-  iib.4.  cap. i2. 
nourM  in  Crete  under  the  name  of  Diciyune  or  ]  Britomartis,  on  account  of  ^jf^f™ 
a  Nymph  fo  calPd,  who   was  tenderly  lov'd  by  her ;  and  was  named  T*fu*  HefydS. 
Diciynney  from  being  the  firft  that  contriv'd  Toils  to  catch  Deer.     We  tv"  apud  o-e- 
had  better  hold  to  what 5  DtoAorm  Siculus  fays  of  the  matter,  than  to  any  ^"  y"1^' . 
of  the  Fables  concerning;  Dtctyane.  .  »^eI\o^r 

«,  ■  77;  dulcis  Vir- 

THE  26th  of  July  we  went  to  view  the  Ruins  of  Paleocaftro,  or  Old  go.    vide 
Crf/?/?,  according  to  the  vulgar  Greek.     The  People  of  the  Country  know  ah^wm*'" 
not  its  antient  Name ;  it  is  however  not  unlikely,  that  it  was  the  old  f  *™w'  re\e- 
Town  of  Apteron,  mice  Strabo  delivers,  that  Chifamo  was  its  Arlenal  and  lib.  5. 
Port.     Chifamo  is  indeed   a   Sea-port,    on  a  large  Road  form'd  by  the  n«^*'^^f- 
Horns  of  the  Cape  des  Grabufes  and  Cape  Spada  :  now  the  Ruins  of  Paleo-  Geog'5Ti'b.  10.* 
cajlro  are  in  fight  of  that  Port,  on  a  fteep  Rock  fortify'd  by  Nature.     At  Apferon.  plin. 
the  foot  of  this  Rock,  between  the  Town  and  the  Sea,  was  that  famous  Hift-  Nat- lib- 

.  4-  cap.  12. 

4  field,  where  the  Sir-enes  being  overcome  by  the  Mufes  in  aTryal  of*M(j^wA_ 
Skill  in  Mufick,  loft   their  Wings,  if  we  may  credit  feme  antient 5  Au- n'w  <*  »«- 
thors.     'Tis  even  pretended,  that  the  Town  took  its  Name  from  this  &*U-rlwh 
Fable;  for  Apteron  (\gp\fas  Wing~Ufs  ■ :  and  yet  the  Etymology  given  of , ^ ah"' 
it  by  Eufehius  of  Cefarea,  is  more  likely  to  be  true  ;  he  fays  that  After  as  magn.  Suidas. 
King  of  Crete  was  the  Perfon  that  gave  it  his  Name,  after  he  had  built  it. !  X™  j^t 
THERE  are  not  many  antient  Marbles  anions  the  Ruins  of  Apteron,  V^*  W/? 

tm  V-  11^  i*\itruf>  Eufeb. 

though  they  fpr  ead  a  great  way.  There  s  a  pretty  Frize,  which  lerves  for  chron.  Grsc. 
a  Lintel  of  a  Door  to  a  Chappel,  fabricated  in  a  Rock;  and  by  the  way  • 
it  mufl  be  obferv'd,  -that  this  is  one  of  thofe  parts  of  the  Ifland  that  is 
fulled  of  Grots,  and  Caverns.  Contiguous  to  the  Rock,  on  one  of  the 
antient  Gates  of  the  City,  there  is  ken  IMP.  CAESAR,  011  a  long 
Stone,  in  wonderful  fair  Characters.  We  could  not  find  the  reft  of  the 
Infcription,  to  inform  us  who  this  Princ*  was.  Upon  another  Stone, 
which  ferves  for  a  Lintel  to  a  Door  of  a  Home-fted,  thefe  Characters 
are  to  be  read;  IVIJ.  COS.  III.    By  all  which  it's  plain,  that  it  was  a 

con- 


H 


A  Vo stage  into  the  Levant. 


considerable  Town  in  its  day,  and  there  would  be  no  room  to  doubt  of 
Paleoca/lro's  being  the  Refidue  of  the  old  Town  of  Apteron,  were  it  not 
for  Strdo's  placing  it  within  ten  miles  from  Canea  :  but  the  Meafures  of 
the  Antients  is  what  can't  be  certainly  depended  upon.  Perhaps  too  this 
Place  in  Strabo  is  corrupted. 

B«f«wi3w  BERECTNTHVS,    a  celebrated  Mountain  with   the  Antients,  is 

doubtlefs  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Apteron :  This  Name  being  loft,  it  is 
very  difficult,  if  not  impoflible,  to  diftinguilli  it  among  thofe  which  ad- 
join to  that  City.     It  would  however  pleafe  a  Man,  to  know  the  place 

pio J. sic.  Bib-  Qf  Berecyatbasy  becaufe  one  would  never  forget  the  name  of  a  Mountain 

liot.Hilt.  I10.5.  J  '  D 

where  the  Daclyli  Idxi  found  out  the  life  of  Fire,  Iron,  and  Copper. 
Who  thefe  Daciyli  ldxi  were,  and  what  opinion  may  be  entertain'd  of 
'em,  will  appear  in  the  Elucidations  we  ihall  deliver  concerning  antient 

•BMd&jTi    Crete.     Meurftus  has  made  an  excellent  Remark  on  that  PafTase  of'  Dio- 

X,*W>  ">Jh3ii  dor  us  Siculus,  which  (peaks  of  Afteron. 

eaiw.  dod.  THE  27th  of  July  we  went  to  the  Convent  of  Cougna,  juft  at  the 
Entrance  of  Cape  Spada,  in  fight  of  Canea :  we  defign'd  to  view  this 
Cape  very  attentively,  but  we  had  not  time  ;  being  advis'd  by  an  Ex- 
prefs  from  the  Conful  of  Canea,  that  a  Bark  of  Provence  was  departing 
for  the  Negropont,  and  that  he  had  bargain'd  with  the  Owner  to  carry 
us  to  Mtlo.  We  look'd  on  it  as  a  fair  opportunity  of  going  to  the  Archi- 
pelago ;  but  the  Wind  fuddenly  the  next  day  fell  to  a  Calm,  which  gave 
us  full  time  to  pack  up  our  things  at  Canea,  and  to  commit  to  writing 
the  Reflections  I  had  at  my  leifure  made  in  that  Ifland ;  fince  when,  I 
havemadefome  additions. 

Creu  jovis         THE  Ifle  of  Candia  is  about  1600  miles  from  Marfeilles,  and  600 

magni  medio     r  „  .         ,_,,  ,  ..  ■        ,.       *      • 

jacet  indiia  from  Lonjtanttnopk.  Iney  reckon  400  miles  from  Candia  to  Damietta  in 
!cneid.  lib?-.  Egjpti  3°°  t0  Qprus>  IO°  to  Milo,  and  40  to  Cerigt.  Never  was  Situa- 
v.  104-  tion  niore  favourable  than  this  of  Candia,  for  eftablifhing  a  mighty  Em- 

pubLi.j.c.io.  pire,  as  Arijlotle  well  obferves  :  in  the  midft  of  the  Sea,  and  within  reach 

•  'Aapfreur    0f  Europe,  Afta,  and  Africa. 

ueog.  lib.  10.  THE  Length  of  Candia  is  to  be  taken  from  Cape  *  des  Grabufes  to 
&*.uuvioi>.  e-  Cape  '  Salomon:  from  one  to  t'other  are  computed  250  miles.  Strabo 
,ufde'n' .        makes  this  Ifland  to  be  287  miles  and  a  half  in  length  :  4  Pliny  270,  be- 

*  Hift.  Nat.  '  °       *    -  J      '     ' 

tib.  4.  cap.  1 2.  caufe 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Candia.  6$ 

caufe  they  counted  from  Cape  '  St.  John  (by  forne  (till  calPd  Cabo  Crio)  to  Letter  IF. 
Cape  Salomon.     According  to  the  Calculation  of'Scylax,  it  is  $12  miles  .  -f^>? 
and  a  half  in  Length.     As  for  the  Breadth  of  Candia,  it  is  not  above  5  5  gg*"*" 
miles   as  '  Pliny  obferves :  towards    the  middle  it  is  broader  than  in  any  >  periPi. 
other  part.     Strabo  and  Scylax  were  in  the  right  to  fay  it  was  narrow, ' Ibid- 
long,  extending  from  Eaft  to  Weft:  fo  likewife  Stephens  the  Geographer 
takes  notice,  that  it  went  by  the  name  of  the  Long  IJland. 

BELONIVS  was    not  well  appriz'd  of  the  Compafs  of  the  lfle  of  ^JJ*  Jib*  u 
Candia;  he  makes  it  to  be  1520  miles  :  whereas  it  is  not  above  600, 
according  to  4  Mr.  de  Breves.     The  Natives  are  of  the  fame  opinion,  and  l%j£*l* 
this  Meafure  anfwers  to  that  of  Strabo  and  Pliny  ;  the  !  firft  gives  it  62  5  ?*™  1628. 
miles  in  circumference,  and  the  6  other  590.     It  is  much,  that  the  Mea-4  ^  ^' 
fures  of  the  Antients  fliould  fbme times  be  10  conformable  to  thofe  of  thelib-4.  cap.  12. 
prefent  Greeks :  -fure  thefe  laft  muft  have  preferv'd  'em  by  Tradition ;  for 
they  have  no  certain  Meafure,  and  only  go  by  the  common  Paces  5  that 
is,  a  Stride  of  about  two  foot  and  a  half  each.     In  the  Courfe  of  this  Re- 
lation it  will  likewife  fometimes  appear,  that  the  antient  Reckoning  was 
very  wide  of  the  modern. 

THE  Inhabitants  of  Candia.  both  Turks  and  Greeks,  are  naturally  tall  ,e*»5c«?«»5i» 

'j         T£?£gv ac  De- 
proper  Men,  vigorous,  robufl ;  they  love  mooting  with  the  Bow,  an  Ex-  fciipt.  Gnecio 

erciie  they  have  been  diftinguiih'd  for  in  all  Ages,  and  Paufanias  fays  it 
was  almoft  peculiar  to  them,  of  all  other  People  of  Greece:  and  there- Goitz.Gwc. 
fore  we  fee  nothing  but  Quivers  of  Arrows  reprefented  on  the  antientefl 
Medals  of  the  Ifland.     7  Ephoms  has  handed  down  to  us  a  Law  of  Minos,  Geo^'iib"^ 
ordaining  the  Children  to  be  taught  Archery :  the  Cretan  Bowmen,  com- 
manded by  Stratocles,  were  a  great  help  in  the  s  Retreat  of  the  Ten  Thou- !  De'Expdk4' 
fand.     It  is  but  reading  9  Jrrian,  to  fee  what  ufe  they  were  of  to  Jlexan-  Mex- 
der  :  their  Arrows  were,  in  all  probability,  made  of  that  fort  of  frnall  nea,  acufeata. ' 
Reed,  hard,  flender,  picked,  which  grows  among  the  Sands  of  the  Ifland,  ExoiTio4.' 
along  the  Sea-fide.     Theophraflits  and  Pliny  have  made  mention  of  it ;  and  Nec  Goityn;*- 

0  i       j  j  »  ca  calamus  le- 

Profperus  Jlpinas  has  given  an  untowardly  Cut  of  it.  vis  exit  abar- 

T  H  E  Cretans  were  likewife  very  expert  at  the  Sling  :  at  this  time  lib!  7. 
they  know  nothing  of  it.     Livy  has  not  forgot  the  Advantages  which  SfSffi? 
Eumenes  and  the  Conlul  Manilas  made  of  the  Archers  and  Slinsers  of  "Pr'od-rIT?i-r- 

,..._.  °  Theop.  Hul. 

tnis  Ifland  •  one  at  that  famous  Battel  where  Antiochus  was  overcome  Piam.L4.c13. 

Vol«  *•  K  byiib.rV.cap.^. 


66  A  Vo  y  A  g  e  into  the  Levant. 

t.  Liv.  Hift.    by  Sc ipio,  the  other  at  the  Battel  of  Mount  Olympus,  where  the  Gauls 
&i.738.C'c.2i.  were  worfted.     'Tis  obferv'd  by  Jppian,  that  there  were  Cretan  Slingers 
Athen.  Deipn.  at  -pharfalia  in  Pompefs  Army.     The  other  Exercifes  of  the  Body,  Dan- 
cing, Hunting,    Foot-Racing,   Riding,  they  excell'd  in.     As  for  their 
Morals,  in  fpite  of  all  the  Care  their  Legiflators  took  to  mould  them, 

•  Lib.  6.         they  have  been  found  tardy  in  many  things.     '  Polybms  writes,  that  of 

all  Mankind  the  Cretans  were  the  only  People  that  thought  no  Lucre 

*  KfS-ny  <t» •  fordid.    *  St.  Paul  palfes  no  Compliment  upon  'em,  any  more  than  '  Con- 
Smei*,  yc^c-t  ft  amine  Porpbjrogenetes.     Suidas  and  *  Callimachus  give  'em  the  Character 


afyti, 


Ad  Tit. 


of  Lyars  and  Impoflors.    The  Impurity  of  their  Amours  are  but  too  no- 
Kji'wm,  km/-  torious,  witnefs  the  Account  given  us  of  'em  by !  Strabo,  \  Serviust  and 

■m]rs.xj<&.        7  Athen AUS. 

^kIto  "tt      T  H  E  Prefent  Race  is  not  fo  bad :  they  have  no  Beggars  in  this  Ifland, 
4<Csa.i.  Cain-  nor  Pick-pockets,  nor  Cut-throats,  nor  Highway  Robbers.     The  Doors 

h>  jCovem,™8.  of  their  Houfes  are  faften'd  with  nothing  but  flight  wooden  Bars,  which 

5  Strab-  £*-    ferve  for  Bolts.     When  a  Turk  commits  a  Theft,  which  rarely  happens, 

Ceog.  lib.  io.  '  J         r*         ' 

*  serv.  /Eneid.  he  is  ftrangled  in  Prifon,  for  the  honour  of  the  Nation  :  then  they  put 
lib  io.  v.325-  his  Bocjy  into  a  gack  fun  0f  Stones,  and  fo  call  it  into  the  Sea.     A  Greek 

'Deipn.  1.  13.  J  ' 

«c  alibi.         that  is  guilty  of  the  fame  Crime,  is  fentenc'd  to  be  baftinado'd,  or  hang'd 

*  Boarma.      up  on  the  next  Tree.     The  Turks  throughout  the  Ifland  are  moftly  ?  Re- 

negadoes,  or  Sons  of  fuch :  the  true  Turks,  take  'em  one  with  another 
are  much  honefter  Men  than  the  Renegadoes.  A  good  Turk  fays  no- 
thing when  he  fees  the  Chriftians  eat  Svvines  Flefh,  or  drink  Wine :  a  Re- 
negado  fhall  fcold  and  infult  'em  for  it,  tho  in  private  he  will  eat  and  drink 
his  fill  of  both.  It  mud  be  confefs'd,  thefe  Wretches  fell  their  Souls  a 
Pennyworth  :  all  they  get  in  exchange  for  their  Religion,  is  a  Vefl,  and 
the  Privilege  of  being  exempt  from  the  Capitation-Tax,  which  is  not 
above  five  Crowns  a  year. 

THE  Greek  Peafants  wear  on  their  head  nothing  but  a  red  Leather 
Cap,  like  that  of  our  finging  Boys  of  the  Choir.  In  the  Country,  to 
skreen  themfelves  from  the  Sun,  they  have  no  other  way  but  to  make  a 
fort  of  an  Umbrella  of  their  Handkerchief,  by  putting  it  over  their  Cap, 
and  bearing  up  one  of  the  Corners  with  their  Stick.  The  Turks  do  the 
iiiftSi-  fame.  The  Greeks  drefs  light;  nothing  but  a  Pair  of  blue  Callicoe 
Drawers,  very  wide,  and  falling  down  to  their  feet :  but  thefe  Drawers 
*  are 


<rs. 


Defcription  of  the  Ijland  of  Gandia.  6j 

are  fb  deep  behind,  it  makes  'em  look  ridiculous.    Every  body  here  is  Letter  II. 
very  neat  about  the  Legs,  whereas  in  Europe  the  Peafants  are  moft  of  'em  *-^~v~^»J 
bare-footed,  or  fadly  out  at  heels.     In  Town  the  Greeks  wear  red  Turkj- 
Leather  Pumps,  very  pretty  and  light :  in  the  Country  they  ufe  Buskins,  vnianos,  Ruf- 
or  a  fliort  fort  of  Boots  of  the  fame ;  thefe  will  lad  years,  and  are  as  *£J^    Rufi 
handfome  Wear  as  that  of  the  antient  Cretans  in  the  time  of  Hippocrates. ticus- 
That  famous  Phyfician  (peaks  of  it  as  a  very  commodious  Coverture  for  Amc.'  1,b'de 
the  Leg  and  Foot ;  and  Galen,  his  Commentator,  fays  it  reach'd  up  to  Gaienus  Con> 
the  Calf,  that  it  was  made  of  a  good  Skin,  with  holes  in  proper  places  lTb.^xdio™ 
for  the  Straps,  to  fatten  'em  on,  and  keep  'em  from  falling  down.  Hippocr. 

A  S  for  their  Women,  we  faw  fome  very  pretty  ones  at  Girapetra ;  the 
reft  are  but  queer  Pieces :  their  Habit  difcovers  no  Shape,  which  yet  is 
the  beft  thing  about  them.  This  Habit  is  very  plain  :  a  fort  of  an  upper 
Coat  of  reddifh  Cloth,  full  of  Pleats,  hung  on  the  moulders  by  a  couple 
of  Thred-Laces  ;  their  Bofbm  is  left  quite  bare.  The  Females  of  the 
Archipelago  wear  Drawers ;  thofe  of  Candia  have  nothing  but  a  Shift  under 
the  Coat  we  have  been  {peaking  of:  their  Head-Drefs  is  much  the  fame 
tor  Simplicity ;  a  white  Veil,  which  falls  very  becomingly  on  their  moul- 
ders. In  other  refpe&s,  thefe  Women  are  none  of  the  moft  taking.  Few 
or  none  of  the  Turkijb  Women  appear  in  the  Streets,  and  when  they  do, 
not  only  their  Face  is  cover'd,  but  their  whole  Body  is  muffled  up  in  a 
Veft  of  Cloth.  The  Jevvilh  Women  are  good  clever  Girls  :  The  Negrefles 
are  the  uglieft  of  the  whole  Ifland. 

N  O  People  under  the  Sun  are  more  familiar  than  the  Greeks ;  where- 
ever  we  went,  they  would  come  and  join  company,  Women,  Girls,  Old 
Men  and  Boys :  they  examin'd  our  Clothes,  Linen,  Hats ;  the  whole 
Town  would  be  up,  lbme  furrounding  us,  others  ftanding  on  the  Ter- 
races :  not  to  affront  us  in  the  leaft,  but  out  of  curiofity  to  look  on  us, 
elpecially  when  we  went  in  fearch  of  Simples  among  the  Mountains, 
where  no  Stranger  was  ever  before  feen.  After  flaring  a  fufficient  pe- 
riod at  each  other,  both  they  and  we  too  would  fall  a  laughing ;  they  at 
our  Garb,  and  we  at  their  Folly.  This  was  in  the  Street,  while  our 
Guides  were  bufy'd  in  looking  out  a  Lodging  for  us :  when  a  Lodging 
was  found,  we  began  our  March,    convoy'd  by  half  the  Town.     We 

K  2  .  gene,- 


(58  A  Vo  y  a  g  e  into  the  Levant. 

generally  tarry'd  fome  time  at  the  door,  till  they  within  had  let  out  the 
Smoke,  and  driven  away  the  Flies,  Gnats,  Bugs,  Fleas,  and  Pifmires. 

THIS  Interval  they  laid  hold  of,  to  confult  us  :  the  Sick  were 
brought  out  into  the  Street,  as  in  the  time  of  Hippocrates.  We  often- 
times made  ufe  of  the  firft  Plant  that  came  to  hand  ;  and  in  Cafes  of 
NecefTky  we  made  'em  a  Prefent  of  fome  Vomitive,  to  carry  off  the 
Leven  of  the  worft  Diftempers.  This  we  did  moft  commonly  to  the 
Greeks  :  towards  the  Muffulmans  we  adted  with  more  caution,  efpecially 
in  Places  through  which  we  forefaw  we  mult  pals  in  our  return  back. 
Who  knows  but  they  might  have  taken  it  in  their  heads  to  compliment 
us  with  the  Baftinado,  if  our  Prelcriptions  had  wrought  too  hard  ?  We 
remember'd  the  Example  of  the  Bafhaw  of  Candia,  and  we  could  not  in 
that  cafe  have  purfu'd  our  Travels  in  lefs  than  fix  weeks.  In  the  Turks 
Territories,  they  very  gravely  apply,  by  way  of  Percuflion,  an  Inftru- 
ment  cali'd  a  Batoon  to  the  Soles  of  a  Man's  Feet :  they  have  a  Chape- 
let,  or  a  String  of  Beads,  of  which  they  drop  one  at  every  Blow  ;  and 
fometimes  regale  you  with  a  few  Salutes  over  the  Shoulders :  this  they  do 
into  the  bargain,  without  asking  you  any  Queftions  whether  you  like  it 
or  no. 

THOUGH  we  had  left  our  fober  Air  behind  us  at  Paris,  yet  we 
could  not  help  being  every  moment  teaz'd :  they  would  run  after  us  in 
luTfo?  j£j7«t'-  Crouds,  bauling  out,  Phyficians,  prescribe  us  fome  Plants  to  cure  our  Diftem- 
pers. If  we  continu'd  any  time  on  the  Highways,  either  to  examine  or 
take  a  Draught  of  a  Vegetable,  immediately  were  brought  out  their  Chil- 
dren or  difeas'd  Old  Men ;  we  very  readily  gave  'em  our  Medicines  and 
Advice,  which  made  us  lofe  a  great  deal  of  time  :  but  befides  the  Con- 
ization we  had  in  doing  good,  we  improv'd  thofe  Opportunities  to  learn 
the  vulgar  Names  of  the  Plants  we  met  with.  I  regarded  the  Brain  of 
thefe  poor  Greeks,  as  fb  many  living  Infcriptions,  ferving  to  retain  the 
Names  quoted  by  Theopbrafttts  and  Diofcorides ;  thefe,  though  fubject  to 
divers  Alterations,  will  doubtlefs  lafl:  much  longer  than  the  moft  folid  Mar- 
ble, becaule  they  are  every  day  renew'd,  whereas  Marble  wears  off,  or 
is  deftroy'd.  Thus  the  Infcriptions  I'm  (peaking  of  will,  to  Ages  yet  to 
come,  preferve  the  Names  of  many  and  many  a  Plant,  well  known  to 
thofe  learned  Greeks,  who  lived  in  more  enlighten'd  happier  Times  ;  we, 

in 


N 


Defcription  of  the  Ifland  of  Candia.  69 

in  this  manner,  got  above  500  of  thefe  vulgar  Names,  which  by  their  Letter  II. 
Analogy  to  the  antient  Names,  are  of  great  affiftance  to  the  bed  Bota-  ^-*~v^* 
nifts    in  deciding  even  the  mod:  familiar  Plants. 

FOR  this  purpofe,  we  principally  addrefsM  our  felves  to  the  Papas 
and  the  Caloyers ;  whom  we  efteem'd  as  Defcendants,  in  a  right  Line, 
of  thofe  fa<*e  Curetes,  in  whole  Heads  was  inclos'd  all  the  Knowledge  of 
their  time  :  '  and  yet  they  are  mere  Ignoramus's.  They  know  indeed 
how  to  feather  their  Nefts  a  little  better  than  their  Neighbours  ;  and 
accordingly  the  faireft  and  fatteft  PoiTeiTions  of  the  Ifland  are  theirs.  Is 
there  a  Spot  of  Ground  better  than  ordinary,  a  fertile  Plain,  fine  Olive- 
Trees,  well-cultivated  Vineyards  ?  you  need  not  ask  who  they  belong  to, 
the  Monaftery  is  prefently  found :  if  no  Monaftery,  a  Papas  lives  not  far 
off!  All  the  bell;  Farms  depend  on  the  Convents ;  this  perhaps  is  what 
has  ruin'd  the  Country,  for  your  Monks  are  none  of  the  fitted  Peo- 
ple to  keep  up  an  Eftate.  Thefe  Greek  Monks,  it  is  true,  are  a  good 
fort  of  People ;  they  mind  nothing  but  tilling  the  Earth,  and  never  con- 
cern themfelves  about  Medicine  :  they  fare  hard ;  the  Wild-Fowl  of  the 
Country  were  created  in  vain,  but  for  other  Perfons  who  know  their  ufe. 

THE  Burghers  of  Candia  eat  well.     In  the  Ifland  they  breed  a  world  Quicquid  in 

,  ■     _  ^,,  ,  ,  _    Creta  nafcitur3 

of  Poultry,  Pidgeons,  Beeves,  Muttons,  Swine.  They  have  likewife  infinko  prxftac 
great  plenty  of  Turtle-Doves,  red  Partridge,  Woodcocks,  Wheatears,  ™t£m 
Hares ;  no  Rabbits.     Their  Butchers-Meat  is  excellent,  except  in  Winter;  S6"'^  pli"- 

71  '  Hift.  Nat.  lib, 

when,  for  want  of  Pafture,  they  are  oblig'd  to  feed  their  Cattel  along  the  25-  cap.  8. 
Sea-fide  among  the  Rufhes,  which  makes  'em  fo  lean,  that  their  Flelh  is 
mere  Flax.  The  Greeks  doa't  much  mind  that ;  they  quicken  their  Ap- 
petite with  Roots  :  and  this  is  what  gave  occafion  to  the  Proverb,  which 
fays,  That  a  Greek  would  grow  fat  on  what  would  ftarve  an  Afs.  This  is 
literally  true,  the  AfTes  eating,  none  but  the  Leaves  of  Plants,  whereas 
the  Greeks  devour  the  very  Root.  We  often  wonder'd  at  their  way  of 
living :  Our  Seamen,  for  days  together,  eat  nothing  but  forry  Bifcuit, 
with  fbme  of  that  briny  Mofs  which  grows  on  the  Rocks  of  the  Sea. 

THOUGH  there  is  not  in  the  Ifland  half  enough  People  to  cultivate 
it,  yet  it  produces  more  Grain  than  the  Inhabitants  can  confume.  It  not 
only  abounds  in  Wines,  but  it  alfo  fupplies  Strangers  with  Oils,  Wool, 
Silk,  Honey,  Wax,  Cheefe,  Ladanum.    They  raife  but  little  Cotton  and 

*  Se- 


jo  ^  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Sefame :  their  Wheat  is  excellent,  efpecially  about  Candid,  and  in  the 
Plain  of  Meffaria,  but  they  know  not  how  to  make  Bread :  theirs  is  a 
flabby  Dough,  rather  bruis'd  than  kneaded  ;  and  this  they  fb  under-bake, 
that  it  flicks  to  the  teeth  like  Glue.     The  French  People  there  make  very 
good  Bread,  well  bak'd  and  well  leven'd ;  the  Turks  are  mighty  Lovers 
of  it. 
Goitz.  gxc       THE  Wines  are  exquifite,  Red,  White,  and  Claret.     No  wonder  we 
fee  Medals  of  the  remoteft  Antiquity  flruck  on  account  of  the  Cretans, 
Xarga  vitis  mi-  the  Reverfe  whereof  reprefents  Garlands  of  Ivy  interwoven  with  Bun- 
gemia.  Soiin.  ches  of  Grapes.     The  Wines  of  this  Climate  have  juft  Tartnefs  enough 
cap.  ii.         t0  quaijfy  their  Lufcioufhefs  :  this  Lufcioufhefs,  far  from  being  fulfom,  is 
attended  with  that  delicious  Balm,  which,  in  thofe  who  have  once  tailed 
die  Candia,  Wines,  begets  a  Contempt  for  all  other  Wine  whatever.     Ju- 
piter never  drank  any  other  Nectar,  when  he  reign'd  King  of  this  Ifland. 
Comment.  3.  Though  thefe  Wines  are  full  of  Fire,  yet  Galen  met  with  a  fort  in  this 

inlib.Hippocr.  °  J 

de  viftus  ra-    place,  temperate  enough  to  be  given  in  a  Fever. 

a'cw.6"10101  '  THE  Turks  can't  forbear  this  tempting  Juice,  at  lead  in  the  night- 
time ;  and  when  they  get  to  a  Tub  of  it,  they  make  clear  work.  The 
Greeks  drink  it  night  and  day,  without  Water,  and  in  final!  Draughts, 
happy  that  they  can  thus  bury  the  Remembrance  of  their  Mifery.  When 
Water's  pour'd  on  thefe  Wines,  the  Glafs  looks  as  if  'twere  full  of 
Clouds,  ihot  through  with  fluctuating  curling  Threds;  occafion'd  by 
the  great  quantity  of  ethereal  Oil  which  predominates  in  this  divine  Li- 
quor.    An  excellent  Spirit  might  eafily  be  drawn  off  it ;  and  yet  no- 

;  P*w;  Raki.  tkjng  is  more  jeteflable  thari  the  '  Brandy  of  this  Country,  as  likewife 
of  the  whole  Levant.  They  make  it  in  the  following  manner  :  Upon 
the  Husks  or  Skins  of  Grapes,  after  the  laft  preflmg,  they  pour  Water : 
this,  when  it  has  digefled  fifteen  or  twenty  days,  they  exprefs  with  flat 
heavy  Stones  laid  on  it;  then  they  diflil  it  to  one  half,  and  throw  away 
the  refl :  they  would  do  better  to  throw  it  all  away,  for  their  Brandy 
has  no  manner  of  Strength,  and  fmells  of  nothing  but  burning  ;  it  is  of 
a  tawny  colour,  and  prefently  corrupts. 

THE  Wool  of  Candia,  like  that  of  Greece,  is  fit  for  nothing  but 
coarfe  Stuffs.  Their  Silk  would  be  exceeding  good,  if  they  knew  how 
.to  manage  it.    The  Honey  is  excellent,  and  finells  of  the  Thyme  which 

the 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Candia.  7 1 

the  whole  Country  abounds  with :  its  Scent  does  not  agree  with  every  Letter  II. 
body ;  it  is  the  colour  of  Gold,  and  more  liquid  than  that  of  Narbone.  *****  *^ 
The  Wax  and  Ladanuni  of  this  Ifland  are  not  defpicable.     There  comes  a 
Chcele  from  the  Mountains  of  Spbachia,  which  is  much  in  requeft.     Athe-  D^n.  lib.  14. 
naits  reports,  that  in  C  rete  they  ufed  to  make  a  fort  of  thin  broad  Cheefe 
to  burn  in  Sacrifices ;  doubtlels  they  were  excellent  good,  for  in  thole 
Ceremonies  they  made  ule  of  nothing  that  was  not  fb.     Though  CandU 
is  a  rich  Country,  yet  the  belt  Land  in  it  is  cultivated  but  by  halves ; 
nay,  two  Thirds  of  this  Kingdom  is  nothing  but  Mountains,  bald,  dry, 
unpleafant,  cut  fteep  down,  and  fitter  for  Goats  than  human  Creatures. 

THEY  breathe  a  very  good  Air  in  Candia,  only  the  South  Wind  is 
dangerous :  Canea  was  like  to  be  abandon'd  twice  or  thrice  upon  that 
very  account.     We  have  before  taken  notice,  that  it  often  fuftocates  Peo- 
ple in  the  open  Field :  we  were  in  the  like  peril  as  we  came  from  Cape 
Metier  to  Canea.     As  for  Water,  there's  none  better  in  the  world.     All  Macros.  Piin. 
things  confider'd,  this  Ifland  may  be  faid  to  be  happily  fituated  :  and  4.  cap.  i2.  " 
accordingly,  in  time  paft,  it  was  call'd  the  Fortunate  Ifland ;  the  very  Nonnuiiietiam 
Stones  it  produces,  are  valuable.  ITSiS?^" 

MOST  of  its  Villages  are  built  of  white  Marble,  but  in  rugged  un-  ™£">  ^'jj' 
hewn  Pieces :  they  make  ule  of  Marble,  only  becaufe  it  is  more  common  to».   soiin. 
than  other  Stones,  for  the  lame  reafon  as  they  ufe  Gold  and  Silver  in  Ame-   ° )  ' 
rica,  becaule  they  are  more  common  than  Iron.  What  would  the  Dip&nus's, 
the  DedduSs,  xhtScyllis,  the  Ctejiphons,  the  Metagenesis  fay,  were  they  to  lee 
Marble  whiten'd  over  with  Lime  ?     Except  Dedalus,  all  thefe  brave  Sculp-  Plin.H.'ft.  Nar. 
tors  and  Architects  were  Cretans,  and  the  two  lafl  built  the  Temple  of  Dia~  &  lib."^^' 
na  at  Efhefus :  Thefe  great  Men  did  not  employ  Mud  inflead  of  Mortar,  as  J*™* ^rA* 
the  Greeks  now-a-days,   who  only  dilute  Earth  in  Water,  without  mixing 
either  Lime  or  Sand  with  it.     In  the  Villages,  the  Houfes  have  but  one 
Floor,  divided  into  two  or  three  Apartments,   illuminated  each  by  an 
Opening,  wherein  they  place  a  flone  Pitcher  of  a  foot  and  a  half  dia- 
meter, open  at  both  ends,  and  wrought  into  the  Roof ;  which  is  a  kind 
of  Terrace,  confiding  of  a  Lay  of  Earth  half  a  foot  in  thicknefs,  fpread 
upon  Faggots,  fupported  by  Joyfls  plank'd  over.     Our  Countrymen  of 
Awvergne  and  Limoge  would  find  full  employment  here. 

IN 


72  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

I N  time  of  Peace,  'tis  pleafant  living  in  this  Ifland ;  but  when  there's 
a  War,  the  whole  Country  is  ravag'd  and  laid  wafte  by  the  Cains .-  fb 
they  call  the  Greeks,  that  run  over  to  the  Venetians  at  la  Suda  or  Spina- 
long*.  Thele  Cains,  or  falfe  Brothers,  burn,  plunder,  ravifh,  and  com- 
mit all  forts  of  Inhumanity  :  they  principally  endeavour  to  take  the 
Turks  prifoners,  and  make  'em  pay  dear  for  their  Ranfom.  If  a  Cain 
happens  to  be  taken,  they  give  him  no  quarter  ;  he  is  either  impal'd  or 
■  a  dreadful  '  gaunch'd.  In  the  laft  War,  there  was  a  Fellow  offer'd  to  buy  off  this 
me'ntfo'Zird.  laft  Punifhment  for  '  2000  Crowns  :  the  Balhaw  would  not  liften  to't, 
*  lour  Pur/is,  but  caiTS'd  him  to  be  impal'd  with  the  Mony  about  his  neck. 
5QD&MMW.  WHEN  a  Wretch  is  to  be  impal'd,  they  lay  him  naked  on  the 
ground,  his  Face  downward,  his  Hands  ty'd  behind  his  Back,  on  which 
they  place  a  Pack-Saddle ;  aftride  of  this,  fit  two  of  the  Executioner's 
Servants, '  to  -  keep  the  Criminal  from  ftirring,  while  a  third,  with  both 
his  Hands  fqueezing  the  Nape  of  his  Neck,  keeps  him  from  turning  his 
Head :  a  fourth  Officer  thrufts  a  Stake  in  at  the  Fundament.  This  Stake 
or  wooden  Pike,  after  he  has  fhov'd  as  far  as  he  can  with  his  hands,  is 
leilurely  driven  up  with  a  Beetle  or  Mallet  till  the  Stake  comes  out  at 
the  Shoulder  or  Breaft :  then  are  they  ty'd  upright  to  Polls  fix'd  in  the 
Highway,  and  fo  left.  If  they  chance  not  to  die  immediately,  the 
Turks  that  are  moil  zealous  for  the  Government  come  about  them,  not  to 
exhort 'em  to  turn  MuiTulmans,  i.e.  Believers,  but  to  rail  and  call 'em  a 
thoufand  Names.  The  Turks  are  fo  fully  perfuaded  that  a  Man  who  com- 
mits any  great  Crime  is  unworthy  to  be  a  MiuTulman,  that  when  a  Muf- 
fulman  is  condemn'd  to  die,  no  body  will  ailift  him  in  the  leaft,  becaufe 
they  believe  his  Crime  has  render'd  him  Jaour,  that  is  to  lay,  an  Infidel 
and  a  Chrrftian. 

THE  Gaunch  is  a  fort  of  Eftrapade,  dually  fet  up  at  the  City-Gates : 
The  Executioner  lifts  up  the  Criminal  by  means  of  a  Pully,  and  then 
letting  go  the  Rope,  down  falls  the  Wretch  among  a  parcel  of  great 
Iron  Flelh-hooks  ;  which  give  him  a  quick  or  lafling  Mifery,  as  he  chances 
to  light :  in  this  condition  they  leave  them.  Sometimes  they  live  two 
or  three  days,  and  will  ask  for  a  Pipe  of  Tobacco,  while  their  Com- 
rades are  curfjng  and  blalpheming  like  Devils.  A  Baihaw  palling  by  one 
of  theie  places  in  Candia,  an  Offender  that  was  hanging  on  the  Gaunch, 

calls 


Defer iption  of  the  IJland  of  Candia.  75 

calls  out  to  him,  with  a  fheer,  Good  my  Lord,  fince  you  are  fo  charitable  ac-  Letter  II. 
cor  dim  to  your  Law,  be  fo  kind  as  to  {boot  me  through  the  head,  to  put  an  ^-^^S***** 
end  to  this  Tragedy. 

THOUGH  the  Candiots  live  a  flothful  Life,  yet  they  are  often  on 
horfeback  a  hunting  ;  they  have  no  notion  of  hunting  a-foot :  the  great 
Men  have  for  the  moll:  part  Barbary  Horfes,  exceeding  beautiful,  and 
which  will  hold  out  much  longer  here  than  in  France,  where  the  Damps 
that  fall  after  Sun-fet,  together  with  the  Hay,  make  'em  fhort-winded 
and  fubjed  to  Defluxions.  The  Horfes  of  the  Ifland  are  fiery  little  Tits, 
finely  chefted  and  long-taiPd :  molt  of  'em  are  fo  gaunt- belly 'd,  the  Sad- 
dle wont't  keep  on  their  backs.  They  are  Stone-Horfes,  and  have  fuch 
a  way  of  clinging  to  the  Rocks,  that  'tis  amazing  to  behold  how  fwift 
they'll  climb  the  fteepeft  Heights.  In  the  moft  hideous  Defcents,  which 
are  frequent  enough  in  this  Ifland,  they  tread  firm  and  lure  ;  but  then 
you  mull  give  them  their  head,  and  truft  intirely  to  their  management : 
they  never  mifcarry  when  they  are  left  to  themlelves,  any  more  than 
when  they  bear  Burdens  almoft  twice  the  weight  of  a  Man :  when  they 
fall,  ^tis  generally  occafion'd  by  their  Riders  holding  too  (trait  a  Rein ; 
for  then  their  Head  being  rais'd  too  high,  they  can't  fee  how  to  place 
their  Feet.  Whenever  I  happen'd  to  be  on  the  edge  of  a  Precipice, 
inftead  of  pretending  to  regulate  my  Horfe's  Motion,  I  fhut  my  eyes, 
that  I  might  not  fee  the  danger,  or  elfe  alighted  with  my  Friends  to 
fearch  after  Simples. 

OUR  Pains  were  generally  recompens'd  with  fome  new  Plant,  and 
thefe  forts  of  Plants  are  call'd  rare,  only  becaufe  they  who  apply  them- 
felves  to  Botany,  rarely  take  the  trouble  of  going  to  luch  wild  Places ; 
it  is  more  natural  to  walk  about  in  a  Wood.  In  the  firfl  Ages  of  the 
World,  the  Plants  call'd  ufual  or  common  Plants  were  only  in  ufe,  be- 
caufe of  the  facility  Men  had  in  coming  at  'em.  It  is  no  eafy  task  to  ac- 
count why  thofe  Vegetables  which  grow  in  the  Cliffs  of  a  Rock,  are  fo 
different  from  fuch  as  are  produe'd  in  a  pleafant  Spot  of  Ground  :  to  re- 
fer it  to  the  difference  of  the  nutritious  Juice,  is  making  us  jufl  as  wife 
as  we  were  before ;  it  is  tumbling  out  of  one  Difficulty  into  another,  the 
common  Fault  of  Phyficians. 

Vol.  I.  L  TO 


y  4  A  Vo  y  a  g  e  z»f 0  ffe  Levant. 

TO  return  to  the  Horfes  of  Candia,  the  Turkiflj  or  Greek  Ladies, 'who 
can  ufe  no  other  Carriage,  by  reafbn  of  the  Roughnefs  of  the  Roads, 
are  never  known  to  difinount ;  nor  does  any  ill  Accident  happen  to  'em 
by  their  Horfes  falling.  Thefe  little  Creatures  are  marvellous  for  courfing 
a  Hare  :  this  Sport  and  Hawking  are  what  the  Turks  moft  delight  in  : 
their  Hawks  are  excellent,  and  as  well  train'd.  They  drove  a  fort  of 
Trade  of  thefe  Birds,  when  the  Venetians  were  mafters  of  the  Ifland ; 
and  they  ftill  continue  to  export  ibme  into  Germany,  by  the  way  of  Ve- 
nice: the  greateft  part  are  fent  to  Conjlantinople,  as  well  as  thole  which 
are  bred  in  Ibme  other  Iflands  of  the  Archipelago. 

THE  Dogs  of  Candia  are  all  a  Baftard-Greyhound ;  mif-fhapen,  thrn- 
flank'd,  and  look  to  be  all  of  one  Breed  :  their  Hair  is  ugly  enough,  and 
they  feem  to  be  between  a  Wolf  and  a  Fox.  They  ftill  retain  their  an- 
tient  Quieknefs  of  Scent,  and  are  all  naturally  Catchers  of  Hares  and 
Pigs :  when  they  meet  one  another,  they  don't  run  away,  but  flop  ihort, 
and  begin  to  fnarl  and  mew  their  teeth,  which  is  not  the  uglieft  thing 
about  'em ;  then  they  very  fedately  ieparate.  There's  no  other  Species 
of  Dogs  in  all  this  Country ;  it  feems  they  have  been  preferv'd  there  ever 
fince  the  time  that  Greece  flourifli'd  :  the  Antients  fpeak  of  no  Dogs  but 
thole  of  Crete  and  Lacedemon,  though  inferiour  to  our  Greyhounds, 
which  are  very  common  in  Afta,  and  about  Confiantinople ;  where  they 
find  wherewithal  to  exercife  their  Talents,  in  the  Plains  of  Thrace  and 
Anatolia. 

WE  had,  in  our  Service,  one  of  thefe  Candia  Dogs,  who  fometimes 
was  our  Purveyor  in  places  remote  from  any  Town :  Arab,  for  that  was 
our  Dog's  Name,  had  fc  great  an  averfion  to  any  that  wore  either  a 
Turbant  or  Cap,  that  he  would  go  and  hide  himfelf  in  a  corner  of  our 
Conful's  Porch,  where  he  would  patiently  wait  till  they  brought  him 
ibmething  to  eat,  without  daring  ro  enter  the  Kitchen.  As  foon  as  he 
fet  eye  on  any  that  wore  a  Hat,  he  would  run  and  fawn  upon  'em  with- 
out end :  we  took  a  huge  liking  to  this  Automaton,  when  we  were  told 
of  his  ufcful  Qualifications,  and  becaufe  he  feem'd  fonder  of  us  than  of  any 
other  French  People :  when  we  went  abroad  in  the  fields,  'twas  but  giving 
him  the  Signal,  by  clapping  our  hands,  and  calling  him  three  or  four 
times  by  his.  name,  away  would  he  troop,   and  never  return  without 

bringing 


Defcription  of  the  Tjland  of  Candia, 


75 


bringing  us  a  Hare  or  a  Pig.     In  the  time  of  antient  Crete,  Pigs  were  not  Letter  II. 
expos'd  to  fuch  Infults ;  they  were  deem'd  a  facred  fort  of  Animal,  ac-  *-/">vrV-» 
cording  to  a  Fragment  of  Jgatbocles  the  Babylonian,  preferv'd  by  Jthe-  Deipn.  lib.  5. 
nxus :  and  yet  their  Veneration  for  Swine  was  founded  upon  nothing  but 
a  Fable,  of  Jupiter's  being  born  on  Mount  Difte,  and  fuckled  by  a  Sow  : 
Arab  and  his  Friends  had  fared  but  forrily  in  thofe  days ;  the  poor  Cur 
follow'd  us  to  the  Sea-fide  when  we  went  to  take  fhipping,  but  he  never 
was  on  board  any  thing  like  a  Ship  in  all  his  life :  he  avoided  them  with 
as  much  precaution  as  the  Turbants ;  as  if  he  was  refolv'd  to  tarry  in  the 
Ifland,  to  courfe  Hares  or  hunt  Pigs  for  the  benefit  of  the  other  French 
Folks  that  continue  there.     I  have  the  honour  to  be,  with  the  pro- 
founded  Refpecl:, 

My   Lord, 

Tour  moft  Humble  and 

Mojl  Obedient  Servant, 

TOURNEFORT. 


L   I 


LET- 


(76) 


& 


*£»« 


& 


itimiiM 


&L 


.?&.    ife 


&.     ,■<%,     M. 


I  fe&d^«^«^«SI&«$fc!» 


Jg 


&. 


in. 


m 


LETTER 

To  Monfeigneur  the  Count  de  Pontchartrain, 
Secretary  of  State,  &c. 


T/>«  Prefent 
State  of  the 
Greek  Church. 


In  I453« 


My  Lord, 

^  S  in  the  Courle  of  this  Journey  I  fhall  frequently  mention  the 
Patriarchs,  Papas,  Caloyers,  and  other  Minifters  of  the  Greek 
Church ;  I  believe  that,  to  avoid  Repetitions,  it  will  be  the 
belt  way  to  throw  together  in  this  Letter  all  that  I  have  learnt 
concerning  the  prefenr.  State  of  that  Church. 

I T  is  fallen  into  fuch  terrible  diforder  fince  the  taking  of  Constantinople 

by  Mahomet  II.  that  no  Man,  who  has  the  leafl  Zeal  for  Religion,  can 

reflect  upon  it  without  ihedding  Tears :  and  yet,  as  defirous  as  the  Turks 

have  appear'd  of  humbling  the  Greeks,  they  never  forbad  them  either  the 

Exercife  or  Study  of  their  Religion  ;  on  the  contrary,  the  afore-mtntion'd 

Sultan,  to  fhew  them  that  he  did  not  intend  to  make  any  Change  in  it, 

honour'd  the  firft  Patriarch  that  was  elected  in  his  Reign,  with  the  fame 

Prefents  as  the  Greek  Emperors  were  wont  to  make  upon  thofe  occafions. 

Thofe  Prefents  were,  a  thoufand  Crowns  in  Money,  a  Paftoral  Staff  of 

Silver,  a  Camlet  Robe,  and  a  white  Horfe. 

IT  is  therefore  to  nothing  but  the  Ignorance  of  thofe  who  govern  the 
Greek  Church,  that  we  are  to  afcribe  its  Decadence,  and  this  Ignorance 
is  the  Confequence  of  the  Miferies  of  Slavery.  The  mofl  Learned  a- 
mong  the  Greeks,  after  the  Lofs  of  the  Capital  of  their  Empire,  took 
fhelter  in  various  parts  of  Chrijlendom  ;  they  carry'd  away  with  them  all 
the  Sciences,  and  confequently  all  the  Virtues  of  their  Country.     Thofe 

who 


The  Trefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church  77 

who  continu'd  in  the  Ottoman  Empire,  and  efpecially  their  SuccefTbrs,  Letter  III* 
did  fo  grofly  neglect  the  antient  Greek,  that  they  were  no  longer  able  v-/""v~*-' 
to  have  recourfe  to  the  true  Sources  of  Chriftianity ;  and  by  this  means 
grew  incapable  and  unworthy  of  explaining  the  Gofpel.  This  Corrup- 
tion frill  remains  among  the  Greeks ;  fcarce  can  they  read  what  they  are 
far  from  underftanding :  'tis  great  merit  in  the  very  Clergy  to  be  able  to 
read ;  and  you  will  be  furpriz'd,  my  Lord,  to  hear,  that  in  the  whole 
Turkifh  Dominions  there  are  hardly  twelve  Perfons  thorowly  skilPd  in  the 
knowledge  of  the  antient  Greek  Tongue. 

THE  Greeks  flatter  themfelves  with  hopes  that  the  Great  Duke  of 
Mufcovy  will  one  day  free  them  from  the  Milery  they  are  in,  and  deftroy 
the  Turkifb  Empire :  but  befides  that  there  is  no  likelihood  of  this  Re- 
volution, their  Knowledge  would  not  be  at  all  improv'd  by  this  changing 
their  Mailer.  The  Muscovites  themfelves  have  all  their  Inftruction  from 
the  Monks  of  Monte-Santo,  who  do  not  delerve  the  name  of  Theologifls.   "o^t  "ASar, 

WHAT  can  we  think  of  a  Church,  whofe  Head,  inflead  of  being %%,"*»" 
pitchM  upon  by  the  Holy  Ghoft,  is  very  often  named  by  the  Grand  Sig- 
nior  or  his  Prime  Vifier,  who  have  the  utmoft  abhorrence  for  the  Chrif- 
tian  Name  ?  There  cannot  be  a  more  melancholy  Consideration,  than 
that  the  Greeks  themfelves  were  the  Authors  of  this  Abomination.  The 
Turks  never  exacted  any  thing  but  a  Sum  of  Mony  for  the  delivery  of-^^,  fr 
the  new  Patriarch's  Letters-Patent ;  the  Greeks  were  the  beginners  of 
letting  the  Patriarchate  to  fate,  without  waiting  for  the  Death  of  the  In- 
cumbent. This  Dignity  is  now  fold  for  fixty  thoufand  Crowns.  'Tis  in 
vain  to  alledge  that  this  Mony  is  given  only  for  the  obtaining  the  Con- 
firmation of  a  Canonical  Election  :  one  Patriarch  very  often  dethrones 
another,  and  lome,  after  having  been  perhaps  twice  diiplaced,  do  again 
afcend  the  Chair.  Crufim  afTures  us,  that  Simeon  of  Trebifond  was  the 
firft  that  undermined  the  Patriarch  Mark,  by*  prefenting  a  thoufand  Se- 
quins to  Mahomet  II. 

NOT  that  we  believe  that  all  Promotions  of  Patriarchs  are  Simo- 
niacal :  on  the  contrary,  we  are  fully  fatisfied  that  there  are  Holy  Men  in 
the  Greek  Church,  who  wculd  not  for  the  world  arrive  at  that  Dignity  by 
Purchafe,    and  who  after  their  Election  canonically  perform'd  by  the  : 
Bifhops,  do  give  the  Vifier  the  ufual  Sum,  only  with  the  view  of  ob- 

*  taining 


73 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 


Caimaca^ 


taming  their  Patents,  as  is  practis'd  by  our  own  Prelates  with  relation  to 
their  Bulls.  This  Conduct:  cannot  be  at  all  found  fault  with ;  but  neither 
can  the  Greeks  deny  that  many  of  their  Clergy  have  at  times  -dethroned 
their  Patriarch,  while  yet  alive,  and  in  full  health,  by  bidding  a  greater 
Sum  than  what  he  had  given.  Is  not  this  a  direct  Purchafe  of  the  Pa- 
triarchate, and  can  fuch  a  Practice  be  call'd  by  any  other  name  than 
Simony  ?  When  therefore  a  Caloyer  is  fo  far  blinded  by  Ambition,  as  to 
be  defirous  of  purchafing  his  Miffion  of  Satan,  he  forms  a  Party  of 
fuch  Biihops  as  are  his  Friends,  who  very  probably  are  no  Lofers  by  his 
Promotion :  he  never  fails  making  a  Prefent  to  the  Prime  Vifier ;  the 
Bargain  is  foon  flruck,  and  the  Pretender,  tho  poor,  is  in  no  danger  of 
wanting  rich  Merchants,  who  in  expectation  of  a  confiderable  and  cer- 
tain Profit,  make  all  the  neceffary  Advances.  If  the  Prime  Vifier  is  not 
at  ConftAntitiofle,  the  bufinefs  is  treated  with  the  '  Governour  of  the  City. 
The  Patents  are  granted  upon  payment  of  the  Mony ;  and  the  new  Pa- 
triarch, accompany'd  by  the  Bifhops  of  his  Faction,  without  giving  him- 
felf  any  uneafmefs  about  what  the  old  Patriarch  or  the  reft  of  the  Clergy 
may  fay  to  it,  goes  to  receive  the  Caftan  of  the  Vifier  or  Governour  : 
This  Caftan  is  a  Veil:  of  Linfey-Woolfey,  or  of  fbme  other  Stuff,  which 
the  Grand  Signior  preients  to  AmbafTadors,  and  Perfbns  newly  inverted 
with  fbme  confiderable  Dignity.. 

THE  Biihops  of  the  Patriarch's  party  do  alfo  receive  each  of  them 
his  Veft,  and  then  proceed  in   a  kind   of  Triumph  to  the  Patriarchal 
£»¥>&•        Church,  in  the  Quarter  of  the  Town  call'd  Balat,  preceded  by  a '  Guard 
*pfSZ£i  "  oi  the  Portet  ty  two  '  Exempts  of  the  Grand  Signior's  Guard,  by  one 
chiaout'e.       0f  tne  Secretaries  either  of  the  Prime  Vifier  or  of  the  Governour  of  the 
City,  and  by  a  Troop  of  Janizaries  :  the  Bifhops  and  Caloyers  bring  up 
the  Rear  of  the  March.     When  they  are  come  to  the  Gate   of  the 
Church,  they  read  the  Patriarch's  Letters  Patent,    whereby  the  Sultan 
commands  all  the  Greeks  in  his  Dominions  to  acknowledge  fuch  a  one  for 
the  Head  of  their  Church,  to  allow  him  the  Sums  neceffary  for  the  Main- 
tenance of  his  Dignity,  and  the  Payment  of  his  Debts :  all  this  upon 
pain  of  the  Baftiuade,  Confifcation  of  Goods,  and  Interdiction  from  the 
Church.     Fine  Marks  thefe,  of  Apoftolical  Million !     After  the  reading 
of  the  Patent,   the  Gate  of  the  Church  is  open'd,  and  the  Prime  Vi- 

fier's 


The  Trefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church.  j? 

Tier's  Secretary  having  placed  the  Patriarch  in  his  Seat,  withdraws  with  Letter  III* 
the  reft  of  the  Turks,  who  have  each  of  them  his  Spill  of  Mony.  v>~\T~vj 

W  E  need  not  at  all  doubt  but  the  new  Patriarch  makes  the  bed  of 
his  time ;  Tyranny  fucceeds  to  Simony :  the  firft  thing  he  does,  is  to 
fignify  the  Sultan's  Order  to  all  the  Archbifhops  and  Biihops  of  his  Cler- 
gy. This  new  Head  of  the  Church  is  call'd  not  only  Tour  Holinefs,  but  nix^-mx 
Tour  All-Holinefs.  He  continues  always  to  drefs  like  a  plain  Caloyer  J*^*** 
and  when  you  falute  him,  you  kils  his  Hand  or  his  Chapler,  carrying 
it  from  your  Mouth  to  your  Forehead.  His  greateft  Study  is  to  know 
exactly  the  Revenues  of  each  Prelate  ;  he  impofes  a  Tax  upon  them, 
and  injoins  them  very  ftri&ly  by  a  fecond  Letter  to  fend  the  Sum  de- 
manded, otherwife  their  Diocefes  are  adjudg'd  to  the  higheft  Bidder. 
The  Prelates  being  ufed  to  this  Trade,  never  fpare  their  Suffragans  ■  thefe 
latter  torment  the  Papas;  the  Papas  flea  the  Parifhioners,  and  hardly 
fpr inkle  the  leaft  drop  of  Holy  Water,  but  what  they  are  paid  for  be- 
forehand. 

IF  afterwards  the  Patriarch  has  occafion  for  Mony,  he  farms  out  the 
Gathering  of  it  to  the  higheft  Bidder  among  the  Turks:  he  that  gives  mofT 
for  it,  goes  into  Greece  to  cite  the  Prelates.  Ufually  for  twenty  thou- 
fand  Crowns  that  the  Clergy  is  tax'd  at,  the  Turk  extorts  two  and  twen- 
ty, fb  that  he  has  the  two  thoufand  Crowns  for  his  pains,  befides  having 
his  Charges  borne  in  every  Diocefs.  In  virtue  of  the  Agreement  he  has  * 
made  with  the  Patriarch,  he  deprives  and  interdicts  from  all  Ecclefiaftical 
Functions,  thofe  Prelates  who  refufe  to  pay  their  Tax  :  if  they  have  not 
Mony  by  them,  they  borrow  of  the  Jews  at  exorbitant  Intereft,  upon 
the  Security  of  their  Diocelans.  This  is  now  that  Church,  which  was 
formerly  fo  flourifhingandfo  glorious,  in  having  had  for  Paftorsthe  Atha- 
nafuts's,  the  Bafils,  the  Chryfojioms. 

THE  Hierarchy  of  the  Greek  Church  confifts  of  fome  other  Patriarchs 
who  acknowledge  him  of  Conjlantinople  for  their  Head  ;  namely,  the 
Patriarch  of  Jerufalem,  who  governs  the  Churches  of  Palejline,  and 
of  the  Confines  of  Arabia  ;  that  of  Antioch,  who  refides  at  Damafctis, 
has  in  his  care  the  Churches  of  Syria,  Mefopotamia,  and  Caramania  ;  that 
of  Alexandria  dwells  at  Gran  Cairo,  and  governs  the  Churches  of  Africa 
and  Arabia.     All  the  other  Greek  Churches  under  the  Ottoman  Empire 

depend 


8o  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

depend  immediately  upon   the  Patriarch  of  Qonftwtinoyle  :   the  Arch- 
bilhops  are  next  in  Rank  to  the  Patriarch  ;  and  after  thefe  come  the 

•  Anhprkp.  Bilhops  ;  next  the  '  Protopapas,  then  the  "  Papas,  and  laflly  the  Ca- 
\  Curatts-  loyers.  When  you  falute  an  Archbifliop  or  a  Bilhop,  you  kifs  his  Hand, 
a«  *me9™    ancj  caj[  him  i  iour  M-Priejlhood,  or  4  Tour  Beatitude ;   Priefts  are  call'd 

4  Ma^ei'oTH  ,         t  r  t-     r 

^5,  !  lour  Holinejs. 

*  • 'ApinW*  THE'  Caloyers  are  Monks  of  the  Order  of  St.  Bsfil ;  there  is  no  va- 
\lfotfiun.  riety  of  Colour  in  their  Habits.  This  Body  fupplies  the  Greek  Church 
'  n*V«,  «■  with  all  its  Prelates.  The  7  Papas  are  properly  no  more  than  fecular 
n*Vw«.  pneftc  and  can  never  rife  higher  than  to  be  Curates  or  s  Archpriefts. 
«.  The  firft  Order  confer'd  on  thofe  that  dedicate  themlelves  to  the  Church, 
>  AHtQwfait.  is  that  of  9  Reader,  whofe  Office  is  to  read  the  Holy  Scripture  to  the 

>**Aim.     People  on  high  Feftivals :  thefe  Readers  come   to  be  ,0  Chanters,  then 
■•  TTra/^'w-    "  Sub-Deacons,  and  fing  the  Epiftle  at  Mafs;  afterwards  they  are  made 
t?AMtfr*     "Deacons,    and  fing  the  Gofpel :    the  laft  Order  they  obtain,    is  the 
"  uSanr».     <i  Prieilhood.     As  for  Clerklhip,  they  do  not  reckon  it  to  be  properly  one 
of  the  Sacred  Orders  ;  they  call  Clerks  all  the  Perlbns  in  general  that  are 
of  the  Body  of  the  Clergy  :  in  fome  places  they  apply  this  Name  to 
•♦  KtmvJtw  ,4  thole  who  give  out  the  Anthems  to  the  Chanters,  to  inform  them  what 
IMW''  they  are  to  fay  :  any  Child  that  is  prefent  may  do  as  much  ;  for  almoil: 
all  of  them  are  taught  to  do  it.     The  Sub-Deacon  takes  care  of  the  Sa- 
bered Ornaments  and  VeiTels :  it  is  he  that  prepares  the  Bread  for  Confe- 
cration,  and  that  lays  it  upon  the  Table  of  Shew -bread  ;  he  receives  the 
To  UcuMmov,  Offerings,  drefles  the  Pried,  gives  him  the  Water  to  waih  and  the  Cloth 
fryr,  to  dry  his  hands.     The  Deacon  holds  the  Stole,  and  a  Fan  to  drive  away 

To  gm'Jlp,    Fiies  from  the  Altar. 

Tan. 

THE  Prieils  are  allow'd  to  marry  once  in  their  life-time,  provided 
they  engage  themlelves  in  the  Bonds  of  Matrimony  before  they  are  or- 
dain'd :  they  mull  for  this  purpofe  declare  in  Confeilion  to  a  Papas, 
that  they  arc  Virgins,  and  they  intend  to  marry  a  Virgin.  If  they  ac- 
cufe  themfelves  of  having  known  a  Woman,  they  are  incapable  of  being 
Priefts,  unlefs  they  corrupt  their  Confeflbr  with  Mony.  When  the  Con- 
felTor  has  received  the  Depofition  of  the  Deacon,  he  certifies  to  the 
Bilhop  that  fuch  a  one  is  a  Virgin,  and  defigns  to  marry  a  Virgin  :  he  is 
marry'd,  and  afterwards  receives  the  Order  of  Prieilhood ;  but  he  mull 

not 


The  Vrejent  State  of  the  Greek  Church  81 

not  enter  into  a  fecond  Marriage :  for  which  reafbn  he  chutes  the  ■  hand-  Letter  III. 
fomeftGirl  in  the  Village,  and  one  whole  Complexion  feems  to  promife  Vr^^^-' 
Length  of  Days.  As  to  Flefh,  the  Papas  are  not  oblig'd  to  abftain  from 
it  more  than  two  Days  in  the  Week,  any  more  than  the  Laymen.  The 
Library  of  thele  Priefts  is  ufnally  very  finall ;  their  Breviaries  and  other 
Forms  of  Prayer  being  very  dear,  becaufe  of  the  neceflity  they  are  in 
of  fetching  them  all  from  Venice ;  they  difpenfe  with  the  Repetition  of  the 
Office,  tho  'tis  in  the  vulgar  Greek :  as  to  Mafs,  they  fay  it  not  every  day, 
becaufe  it  is  not  lawful  for  them  to  lie  with  their  Wives  the  Eves  of  the 
Days  on  which  they  are  to  celebrate. 

THE  Papas  are  diftinguifh'd  from  the  Caloyers  by  a  white2  Fillet,  'n«c«V 
about  an  inch  broad,  which  goes  round  the  bottom  of  their  Caps :  and 
there  are  many  places  where  both  Papas  and  Caloyers  wear  a  piece  of 
5  black  Cloth  faften'd  on  the  infide  of  their 4  Caps,  and  hanging  down  on  '  n*&"*»- 
the  back ;  this  gives  them  the  Air  of  fo  many  little  Prelates.     All  their  ♦  Ka^W-^p 
Caps  are  of  the  fame  form,  and  made  at  Monte  Santo,  flat  at  top,  black,  %  k**"**''- 
and  Hoping  down  over  the  ears ;  their  5  Habit  is  deep  brown,  a  kind  of  «*****'*. 
plain  Caflbck,  over  which  they  wear  a  Girdle  of  the  fame  colour.  riu*vS)j». 

THE  Caloyers  take  the  Vow  of  Obedience,  of  Chaftity,  and  of  Ab- 
ftinence ;  they  never  fay  Mafs,  if  they  mean  to  continue  in  their  Rule : 
if  they  take  the  Priefthood,  they  become 6  facred  Monks,  and  never  ce-  '  Uepiuviyct 
lebrate  but  upon  the  highefl  Feftivals  ;  upon  which  account,  in  Convents  ^L^l^". 
there  are  Papas  kept  to  ferve  the  Church.     Thus  the  Sacred  Monks  really 
differ  from  the  Caloyers  only  as  to  Priefthood. 

THOSE  that  would  be  Caloyers,  apply  to  fbme  Sacred  Monk  to  re- 
ceive the  Habit,  and  this  Ceremony  cofls  about  a  dozen  Crowns.  Before 
the  Decadence  of  the  Greek  Church,  the  7  Superior  of  a  Convent  was  wont '  H^tyw. 
to  examine  the  Candidate  very  ftrictly,  and  for  a  proof  of  his  Call,  obliged 
him  to  remain  three  Years  in  the  Monaflery :  after  the  expiration  of  which 
term,  if  he  perfevered  in  his  defign,  the  Superior  brought  him  into  the 
Church,  and  fpoke  to  him  as  follows  ;  "  My  Brother,  behold  us  now 
"  ftanding  here  in  the  pretence  of  the  Angel  of  the  Lord,  before  whom 
"  we  muft  not  lye :  Is  it  not  to  avoid  the  Punifhment  of  fome  Crime, 
•*  that  you  would  retire  into  this  Houfe  ?  Is  it  not  fome  domeftick  Difc 
"  appointment,  fome  Crofs  in  Love,  fbme  criminal  Affair,  that  brings 
Vol.  I.  M  «  you 


82  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

*  you  among  us  ?  No,  Father,  ufaally  reply'd  the  Perfon  examin'd ;  it 
"  is  with  no  other  defign  than  to  work  out  my  Salvation,  that  I  defire 
"  to  quit  the  World  and  its  Vanities."  Then  the  Superior  gave  him  the 
Habit,  and  after  lome  Prayers  he  cut  off  a  Lock  of  his  Hair,  which  he 
faften'd  with  a  piece  of  Wax  againft  the  Wall  near  the  Altar. 

THERE  is  noDifcipline  now  left  among  the  Greeks;  they  receive 
their  Monks  very  young,  and  efpecially  in  the  Convents,  where  you  mall 
have  fbme  not  above  ten  or  twelve  Years  old  :  they  are  moft  commonly 
the  Sons  of  the  Papas,  who  are  taught  to  write  and  read ;  befides  which, 
they  are  employ'd  in  the  meaneft  Offices,  and  this  ferves  them  for  their 
Noviciate.  In  the  more  regular  Convents,  the  Noviciate  is  further  pro- 
long'd  two  Years  after  taking  the  Habit :  thefe  Convents  are  thofe  of 
Monte  Santo,  of  St.  Luke  near  Thebes,  of  Arcadi  in  Candia,  of  Neamoni  at 
Scio,  of  Mavromolo  upon  the  Bofphorus,  the  Monafleries  of  the  I/les  of  Prin- 
ces, &c.  Thefe  poor  Novices  are  fadly  troubled  with  Vermin  ;  we  taught 
•  Delphinium  them  the  ufe  of '  Staves-ager,  or  Loufewort,  to  kill  them :  the  Lord  has  pro- 

Platani  folio,  ii/-ityi- 

staphifagria     vided  for  them  very  well,  for  the  Herb  is  common  all  over  that  Country. 

ReiHab.428.  THE  Caloyers  and  other  Ecclefiafticks  are  very  flovenly,  their  Hair 
and  Beard  are  utterly  neglected ;  for  moft  of  them  get  their  Livelihood 
by  the  Sweat  of  their  Brows,  and  betake  themfelves  to  all  forts  of  Em- 
ployments, efpecially  to  tilling  the  Earth,  and  cultivating  the  Vine.  The 
Lay -Brothers  are  of  the  coarfeft  Make,  and  are  like  our  Freres  Donnez, : 
I  don't  know  what  they  call  them  among  the  Greeks ;  they  are  honeft 
Countrymen,  that  after  the  death  of  their  Wives  give  all  they  have  to 
fome  Convent,  where  they  fpend  the  reft  of  their  days  in  labouring  the 
Earth.  All  thefe  Monks  live  upon  nothing  but  fbme  forts  of  Fifh,  Pulfe, 
Olives,  dry'd  Figs:  their  Refectory  is  not  in  the  leaft  better  furniih'd 
than  that  of  U  Trappe,  except  as  to  Wine ;  and  the  very  worft  Wine  in 
Greece  is  incomparably  better  than  the  beft  Perche  Cyder.  Strangers  eat 
Meat  in  the  Houfes  of  the  Caloyers,  but  then  they  mult  bring  it  with 
them  They  are  generally  well  provided  with  green  Olives  faked,  which 
are  extremely  agreeable :  black  Olives  are  alfo  common  among  them,  and 
of  a  better  Tafte ;  they  are  put  with  Layers  of  Salt  in  great  Pitchers, 
where  they  will  keep  without  Water  for  above  a  year  :  I  have  try'd  to 
prelerve  them  in  Provence  the  fame  way,  but  it  would  not  do. 

IN 


The  Vrefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church.  83 

IN  the  Greek  Monafteries  their  Commons  are  all  equal ;  the  Superior  Letter  III. 
is  not  better  fed  than  the  meaneft  Monk ;  and  the  fame  Rule  is  obferv'd  ^-/~v_^~» 
in  all  the  other  NecefTaries  of  Life.     When  the  Superior  leaves  his  Of-  nt^y^tu 
fice,  he  is  flript  only  of  his  Authority :  when  he  is  in  Office,  he  never 
dares  abufe  it,  efpecially  with  relation  to  the  Punifhments  and  Penances 
due  to  the  Faults  of  his  Monks  ;  the  leaft  Severity  would  ibmetimes  put 
them  upon  taking  the  Turbant  inftead  of  the  Cap  of  Monte  Santo.     AIL 
Penances  therefore  are  voluntary  in  their  Cloiflers  •  they  are  not  at  all 
acquainted  with  Submiilion  and  Humility  :  thofe  Virtues  are  practis'd 
only  by  their  Cooks,  who  proftrate  themfelves  at  the  door  of  the  Re- 
fectory, to  receive  the  Benediction  of  the  Monks  as  they  come  out. 

A  S  there  are  three  States  of  Perfection  in  the  Monaftick  Life  among 
the  Greeks,  the  Monks  are  accordingly  diftinguifh'd  by  three  forts  of  Ha- 
bits :  the '  Novices  wear  only  '  a  plain  Tunick  of  the  very  coarfeft  of*  A.?%te.Uu 
Cloths  ;  the  ProfefTed  have  a  !  larger  and  neater :  they  call  the  moreFer- '  ~£mf  $ 
vent  the  *  Monks  of  the  little  Habit,  to  diftinguifh  them  from  thofe  who  '  MtuJJlm, 
lead  an  indifferent  fort  of  Life  like  the  reft  :    laftly,  the  5  Cowl  and  S^^ 
'  Scapulary  are  beftow'd  upon  the  moft  7  Perfect,  whom  they  do  not  fcru-*  mm^'j^/. 
pie  to  compare  to  Angels.     They  are  bury'd  in  thofe  Ornaments,  for  in  ,  ***? x""' 
their  life-time  they  wear  them  only  for  feven  days.  » Uiyt^   ' 

I N  fome  parts  of  Greece  the  Caloyers  are  divided  into  Anchorets  and lW/' 
Afceticks  or  Hermits :  The  Anchorets  live  three  or  four  together  in  a 
Houfe  own'd  by  the  Convent,  of  which  they  hire  it  for  their  Lives. 
There  they  have  their  Chappel,  and  after  Prayers  employ  themfelves  in 
cultivating  Pulfe,  Vines,  Olive,  Fig,  and  other  Trees,  which  furnifh  them 
with  Fruits  in  their  feafon.  Thefe  Monks  differ  from  the  conventual 
only  in  their  converfing  lefs  with  the  World,  and  being  in  fmalier  numbers 
in  their  Retreat. 

THE  Life  of  the  Afceticks  or  Hermits  is  the  ftricteft  of  all ;  they  arc 
reclufe  Caloyers,  and  voluntarily  retire  into  the  moft  frightful  Rocks : 
they  eat  but  once  a  day,  except  upon  Feftivals ;  they  fcarce  take  enough 
to  fatisfy  the  Calls  of  Nature  :  the  Pacomujfes  and  Macairiuffes  never 
lived  more  aufterely.  Without  a  very  particular  Vocation,  I  hardly  be- 
lieye  it  is  lawful  for  Men  to  put  their  Life  to  fuch  a  Teft ;  it  is  certainb/ 
the  Will  of  God  that  we  fhould  preferve  it  as  much  as  in  us  lies,  whereas 

M  2  thefe 


H 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 


thefe  Men  deflroy  themfelves  without  any  necefTky ;  on  the  other  hand, 

thefe  great  Auflerities,  join'd  to  a  perpetual  Solitude,  very  often  turn 

their  Brains.     Mofl  Afceticks  are  apt  to  fall  into  piteous  Fancies,  that 

have  nothing  at  all  to  do  with  the  true  Knowledge  of  our  Duty  ;  fb  that 

by  little  and  little  their  Heads  grow  fo  full  of  Vifions,  that  they   are 

little  better  than  diftra&ed.     Thefe  poor  Hermits  are  nor  mendicant . 

the  Monks  from  time  to  time  bring  them  a  little  Bifcuit,  which  with  a 

few  wild  Herbs  is  all  their  Support. 

•  K*\<vei<t,        THE  Greek  Nuns  '  do  by  no  means  live  fb  auflerely  as  the  Hermits ; 

K*o  °« 'k*"h-  tneY  are  m°ftty  Magdalen s  reform'd,  that  towards  the  Decline  of  their 

y&ia,  pod    ^pc  make  a  Vow  to  be  more  obfervant  of  fome  Virtues  that  they  have 

old  Woman.  °  J 

ttfjryeltu,  very  much  neglected  in  their  Youth  :  they  then  retire  into  Monafleries, 
KaAoyepv  tjjere  t0  ieacj  a  Life  left  fcandalous,  under  the  Infpe&ion  of  a  kind  of 
am?*I.       '  Abbefs,  who  is  not  over-fevere. 

"  W^71**-      A  S  to  the  Greek  Monks,  they  apply  themfelves  to  Contemplation  left 

than  the  Afceticks :  thefe  Monks  rife  conflantly  an  hour  and  a  half  after 

Midnight  to  pray  together.     The  Night  between  Saturday  and  Sunday 

Tbteiwi*?   they  rife  exadly  atone  :  the  Nights  of  the  Eves  of  the  Afcenfion,  Pen- 

™  $&3i   tecofl,  St.Jobn  Baptift,  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  the  Transfiguration  of  our 

VUKTJX.0V)    *"*  *  «/  *  *  '  «-? 

offiitof  m»-   Saviour,  the  Feafl  of  the  Virgin,  are  wholly  fpent  in  Prayers.     Ulually 

tl  OKaixmv  after  tne  midnight  Office,  the  Monks  retire  to  their  Cells,  and  return  to 

ii  OKimamv  church  about  five  to  fay  Matins,  5  Laudes,  and  Prime,  which  is  begun  at 

prayers  that    Sun-rife  :  after  this,  each  Man  goes  to  his  work ;  thofe  that  flay  in  the 

"igh"-'         Convent  go  again  to  Church  to  fay  Tierce  and  Sixte,  and  to  aflifl  at  Maft. 

1  "Of%«.       From  Mais  they  go  directly  to  dinner  in  the  Refectory,  where  they  have 

Reading  in  the  fame  manner  as  in  our  Communities  :  after  Dinner,  they 

return  to  work :  at  four  they  fing  Vefpers,  fup  at  fix  ;  after  Supper  they 

fay  Complines,  and  at  eight  go  to  bed. 

BESIDES  the  Fafts  of  the  Church,  the  Caloyers  have  three  parti- 
cular ones :  the  firfl  is  inflituted  in  honour  of  St.  Demetrius ;  this  Fall  be- 
gins the  firfl:  of  October,  and  ends  not  till  the  twenty  fixth  of  the  fame 
•EejTMrafM-  Month,  which  is  the  4  Feafl  of  St.  Demetrius  martyr'd  at  Tbeffalonica  : 
^nZrli"^  tne  iecond  Fafl  is  of  but  fourteen  days,  namely,  from  the  firfl  of  Sep- 
j  h  t-4«?<  y  tember  to  the  Feafl  of  the  '  Invention  of  the  Crofs  :  the  lafl  is  the  Fafl 
tu7Tc™™«  of  St.  Michael ;  it  begins  the  firfl  of  November,  and  ends  the  eighth, 
**=  «*"*=•  *  which 


The  Trefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church.  8  £ 

which  among  the  Greeks  is  the  Feaft  of  '  St.  Michael,  St.  Gabriel,  and  all  Letter  III. 
the  Hoft   of  Heaven.     There  are  Caloyers  that  obferve  the  Fafts  of  ^X^. 
St.  Jthanafius  and  St.  Nicholas  Bifhop  of  Myra  ;  the  firft  begins  the  feventh  a*'  *Sj^'Af- 
of  January,  and  ends  the  eighteenth  of  the  fame  Month  ;  in  fhort,  Qf&fo,  Ent- 
ail Chriftians  the  Greeks  are  the  greateft  Fafters  next  to  the  Armenians.       ££&£  ^ 
EVEN  the  Laymen  keep  four  Lents;  the  *  firft  lafts  two  Months?  \  Mi^ai  ^ 
and  ends  at  Eajler,  for  which  reafon  they  call  it  the  great  Lent,  or  the  M^,  '***&' 
Ealier-Lent :  in  the  firft: '  Week  of  this  Lent,  it  is  lawful  to  eat  Cheefe, '  T»ety»  *)  m- 
Milk    Fifh,  and  Eggs;  all  which  they  are  forbidden  during  the  following  ntf,  which 
Weeks :  they  feed  wholly  upon  Shell-fifh,  and  fuch  other  as  they  believe  cheefe,  * 
to  be  without  Blood,  as  are  the  Polypus  and  the  Cuttle-fifh  5  they  alfo  eat 
the  Eggs  of  certain  Fifh  faked,  and  efpecially  thofe  of  the  '  Mullet  and  V'flrf  -ma^ 
t  Sturgeon  :  the  firft  are  prepared  upon  the  Coafts "  of  Ephefus  and 7  Mile-  targo,  or  p0- 
tus,  and  the  others  on  thofe  of  the  Black  Sea.     The  Shell-fiih  molt  eaten  ^^^ 
in  Greece,  are  the  red  s  Naker,  the  9  common  Oyfters,  which  are  perfectly  '  xa£ta.tl> 
delicious,  and  infinitely  better  than  the  red  ,?  Oyfters,  which  do  not  agree  s  ^j1 
with  all  Stomachs.     The  Greeks  alfo  eat  a  Fifh  calPd  "  Goats-Eyes,  Mufcles, '  Paiatia. 
Perewinkles,  and  Sea- Hedgehogs.     The  Caloyers  in  Lent  live  almoft  upon  '  uirvf  Met. 
nothing  but  Roots:  the  Laymen,  be  fides  the  Fifh  aforemention'd,  ufe  *°x2jk-d- 
Pulfe  and  Honey,  and  drink  Wine ;  that  Liquor  was  forbid  them,  as  well  f- 
as  Oil,  as  St.  John  Chryfofiom  obferves.     They  eat  Fifh  on  Palm-Sunday,  AiS*^ 
and  the  2<;th  of  March,  the  Day  of  the  "  Annunciation,  provided  that  Homil-  *■  « 

^  ,,  1       tt    1      ur      .  Gen.&Homil. 

Day  does  not  fall  in  the  Holy  Week.  <*.  ad  popu]. 

ON  Maundy-Thurfday  the  more  zealous  among  the  Bifhops  wafh  the  ,^'°d^ 
Feet  of  twelve  Papas  :  this  Ceremony  was  formerly  accompany'd  with  a  a/^  rSs 
little  Exhortation,  but  now  they  excufe  themfelves  from  that  trouble.  ^^J'/^ 
On  Good- Friday,  to  celebrate  the  Memory  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  two  "h&t»*lis' 
Papas  in  the  night  carry  upon  their  moulders  in  procefllon  the  Reprefen- 
tation  of  a  Tomb,  wherein  Jefus  Chrift  crucify'd  is  painted  on  a  board :  on 
Eafier-day  that  Tomb  is  carry'd  out  of  the  Church,  and  the  Prieft  begins 
to  fing,  Jefus  Chrifi  is  rifen  from  the  Dead  ;  he  has   overcome  Death,  and 
given  Life  to  thofe  that  were  in  the  Grave.     This  Reprefentation  of  the 
Holy  Sepulchre  is  carry'd  back  again  into  the  Church,  where  it  is  iu- 
cenfed,  the  Office  is  continu'd,  the  Pneft  and  Congregation  every  mo- 
ment repeat,  .Jefus  Christ  is  rtfen  from  the  Dead..    Then  the   Perfon  that  Xeigii*risii.\ 

officiates 


86  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant 

officiates  makes  three  Signs  of  the  Crofs,  and  kiffes  the  Gofpel  and  the 
Image  of  Jefus  Chrift  :  after  this,  he  turns  the  other  fide  of  the  board, 
where  Chrift  is  reprefented  arifing  from  the  Sepulchre ;  the  Pried  kifTes 
k,  reiterating,  Chrift  is  rifen  from  the  Dead :  and  the  Congregation  does 
the  fame,  embracing  and  reconciling  themfelves  one  to  another ;  they 
even  fire  off  Piftols  feveral  times,  which  often  finges  the  Beard  and  Hair 
of  the  Papas.  At  this  frefh  noife  every  body  cries  out,  Christ  is  rifen  from 
the  Dead.  This  fpiritual  Rejoicing  continues  not  only  the  whole  Eafter- 
Week,  but  alio  till  Pentecoft.  In  the  ftreets,  inftcad  of  the  ordinary  Form 
noM/'x&iw.    of  Salutation,  which  is,  7 'wifh  you  Length  of  Tears  ;  they  only  fay,  Jefus 

Chrift  is  rifen  from  the  Dead. 
Th  Siwfltt-       THE  fecond  Lent  is  that  of  Chrifimas,  and  lafts  forty  Days  ;    in  this 
^IZllt^ot  tney  eat  Fifh?  except  on  Wednefdays  and  Fridays ;  fome  abftain  alfo  on 

CSJST  Mo»d*ys- 

auarantam.        THE  third  Lent  bears  the  Name  of  the  Apoftle6  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul : 

^w^bot?    ic  begins  the  firft  Week  of  Pentecoft,  and  ends  on  St.  Peter's  Day ;  thus 

n  v\$Ti*  ^   ic  is  ^on§er  or  morter>  according  as  Eafter  falls  higher  or  lower  in  the 

Year.     During  this  Lent,  it  is  lawful  to  eat  Fifh,  but  nothing  made  of 

Milk.    They  are  even  forbid  to  eat  Flefli,  if  the  Feaft  of  the  ApofUes 

happens  to  be  a  Faft-Day. 

•  TeaM^M^  'THE  lafl  Lent  begins  the  firft  of  Augufi,  and  ends  at  the  Feaft  of 
™  ?50£,"£"  the  AfTumption  ;  on  which  account  it  is  call'd  the  Lent  ef  the  Holy  Vir- 
raa.{^'i/>s.       gjn,    Theuie  of  Fifh  is  forbidden  in  this  Lent,  unlefson  thefixth  of  the 

*  MtTTttulftpo-  iame  Month,  which  is  the  Day  of  our  Saviour's  Transfiguration  \  All 
™f .™  the  other  days  they  are  confined  to  Shell-fifli  and  Pulle.     During  all 

thele  Lents,  the  Monks  live  upon  nothing  but  Pulle  and  dry'd  Fruits,  and 

drink  Water. 

sncfpxflf  $       THE  reft  of  the  Year  the  Greeks  faft  every  Wednefday  and  Friday : 

on  Wednefday,  fay  they,  becaufe  on  that  day  Judas  took  Mony  of  the 

Jens  to  betray  our  Lord ;  on  Friday,  becaufe  on  a  Friday  he  was  crucify'd. 

If  Chrif  mas-Day  falls  upon  a  Wednefday  or  Friday,    the  Laymen   eat 

Flefh,  and  the  Monks  are  dilpens'd  from  fafting.     The  Greeks  are  very 

much  fcandaliz'd  at  our  fafting  on  Saturdays  iu  the  Latin  Church,  upon 

XeKVKl'orot      account  of  a  PafTage  mifunderftood  in  St.  Ignatius  the  Martyr ;  who  fays^ 

£plft.  vfad'   that,  they  who  faft  on  Saturdays,  do  crucify  the  Lord  anew. 

Plulippcufes.  T  H  F 


The  Trefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church.  87 

THE  Laymen  eat  Meat  from  Chrijlmas  to   the  fourth  of  January :  Letter  III. 
the  fifth  of  January,  which  is  the  Eve  of  the  Epiphany,  they  faft,  be-  TbuTZfii!*1 
caufe  they  fancy  Chrifl  was  baptiz'd  the  fixth  of  that  Month ;  it  is  for  Jjjjj  n<t^' 
this  reafon  that  the  Bifhops,  or  their  chief  Vicars,  do  on  that  day  about 
Evening  make  '  Holy  Water  for  all  the  enfuing  Year;  they  drink  of  it, '  W*p^W 
and  fprinkle  their  Houfes  with  it :  if  they  happen  not  to  make  enough,  ,a<  a?/*^. 
when  that  is  out,  they  make  *  more.     Every  Man  carries  a '  Pot-full  of  it  ^°-J^t 
to  his  own  Houfe ;  but  they  never  put  Salt  into  it,  and  find  great  fault  •  a^j-^s- 
with  our  doing  fo  :  the  Papas  go  and  fprinkle  the  Houfes  of  every  private  fyjt"_°pyc~t% 
Man  with  their  Holy  Water.     The  Day  of  the  Epiphany  they  alio  make 
4  Holy  Water  in  the  Morning  at  Mais  ;  it  ferves  to  give  to  fucb  Peni-  *  "p  a>/*>>(* 
tents  to  drink,  as  are  excluded  from  the  Communion,  to  purify  Churches  the  Epiphany 
that  have  been  profaned,  and  to  exorcife  Demoniacks.     On  that  day  they  '  eyca  *ara' 
blefs  the  Springs,  the  Wells,  and  even  the  Sea :  this  Benediction  is  very 
fblemn,  and  brings  in  Grift  to  the  Clergy,  who  to  ftrike  the  Imaginations 
of  the  People,  fling    into  all  thofe  Waters  little  wooden  CrofTes  before 
they  fay  Mafs.     We  faw  it  done  at  Mycone,  by  a  Bifhop  delegated  from  him 
of  the  Ifland  of  linos ;  he  march'd  in  proceflion  in  his  Pontifical  Habits, 
with  his  great  •  Veil  upon  his  head,  and  his  Paftoral '  Staff  in  his  hand.        '  h**ri  k*- 

T  H  E  Greeks  faft  again  on  the  fourteenth  of  December •,  in  honour  of  faw^tLr, 
the  Invention  of  the  Crofs  ;  they  alfo  faft  the  Eve  of  St.  Job/t  the  Baptift:  °  ^aewfcuw. 
and  during  thefe  Fafts  they  abftain  from  Fifh,  and  eat  hardly  any  thing 
but  Pulle ;  as  they  do  alfb  the  Monday  in  Whitfun-Week  :  that  Day  is 
fet  apart  for  putting  up  their  joint  Prayers  to  the  Lord  to  fend  his  Holy 
Ghoft  upon  the  Faithful,  which  they  do  in  the  Evening.  But  they  make 
themfelves  amends  for  this  laft  Faft  the  following  Wednefday  and  Friday, 
for  then  they  return  to  eating  of  Flefh,  for  joy  of  the  Defcent  of  the 
Holy  Ghoft.  In  a  word,  the  Devotion  of  the  Greeks  confifts  hardly  in 
any  thing  more  than  a  regular  Obfervation  of  their  appointed  Fafts. 

I  CONFESS,  my  Lord,  I  mould  have  made  a  very  fbrry  Greek,  efpe- 
cially  if  Travellers  had  not  a  difpenfation  from  the  Law  of  Failing,  which 
the  Natives  here  certainly  have  not  ;  Children,  Old  Men,  Women  with 
child,  fick  Perfbns,  are  not  excus'd :  they  are  much  left  anxious  about 
the  Practice  of  the  Chriftian  Virtues;  It  is  true,  this  is  lefs  their  fault 
than  that  of  their  Teachers ;  who  though  much  more  numerous  than  in 

any 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

any  other  Chriftian  ^Country,  do  not  perform  the  Duties  of  their  Mi- 
nifhy  :  you  fee  in  Greece  ten  or  twelve  Monks  or  Papas  to  one  Layman. 

THIS  Multitude  of  the  Clergy  is  certainly  the  occafion  of  the  vaft 
number  of  Chappels  that  are  in  Greece ;  new  ones  are  daily  built,  though 
K«J>'< ;  <"■ ,K«-  permilTion  muft  firft  be  purchas'd  of  the  Cadi,  e'er  it  can  be  done  :  nay, 
it  is  forbidden  to  rebuild  fuch  as  are  fallen  or  burnt,  till  after  having  paid 
the  Dues  of  that  Officer.  Each  Papas  thinks  he  has  as  much  a  right  to 
poiTefs  one  Chappel,  as  he  has  to  marry  one  Wife.  Few  of  thole  Priefts 
care  to  celebrate  in  the  Church  of  another,  and  this  perhaps  is  the  only 
thing  in  which  they  are  fcrupulous  :  iuch  Celebration  is  in  their  opinion 
a  kind  of  fpiritual  Adultery.  It  is  poilible  too,  this  Multiplicity  of 
Chappels  may  be  a  Relick  of  the  antient  Cuftom  that  prevail'd  in  Greece, 
of  raifing  little  Temples  to  their  falfe  Gods.  It  is  certain,  the  Greeks  re- 
tain many  of  the  Pagan  Ceremonies,  and  among  others  that  of  dancing 
their  Saints  to  theMufick  of  Fifes  and  Tymbals;  which  is  pra&is'd  alio 
..even  in  Provence  on  great  Holidays. 

A  S  the  antient  Greeks  found  the  whole  Earth  in  Gods  and  Goddelfes, 
:Lib.  ?.  deCi- as  St.  Aufiin  obferves,  they  were  obliged  in  honour  to  build  them  Tem- 
ples in  their  own  Country  :  thofe  Temples  were  fmall,  but  magnificent, 
adorn'd  with  Columns,  Architraves,  Pediments,  whole  Workmanlhip  was 
far  more  valuable  than  the  Marble  they  were  built  of.     This  Marble  grew 
So  beautiful  under  the  hands  of  luch  Mailers  as  Phidias,  Scopas,  Praxi- 
tiles,  that  it  became  the  Object  of  the  Adoration  of  Mankind  :  dazzled 
by  the  Majefty  of  their  Gods  of  Stone  or  Brals,  their  Eyes  were  fbme- 
times  too  weak  to  bear  the  Luftre  of  their  fight.     Whole  Cities  have 
been  known  to  be  fo  foolilhly  prepoiTefs'd,  as  to  imagine  they  law  altera- 
tions in  the  Countenances  of  their  Idols  :  Stories  of  this  nature  are  told 
Hift.Nat.  lib.  by  Pliny,  of  the  Statues  of  Diana  and  Hecate,  one  of  which  was  at  Scio, 
:-  "^  5"      and  the  other  at  Ephefm  ;  the  Situation  of  feveral  of  thefe  Temples  are 
yet  difcoverable  by  bits  of  Pillars  ftrew'd  about  the  fields.     The  Greeks 
have  been  very  happy,  that  Churches  are  fubftituted  in  the  place  of  thole 
antient  Edifices. 

THOSE  Churches  now  are  very  indifferently  built,  and  very  poor; 

but  Chrift  is  adored  in  them,  inftead  of  the  falfe  Deities,  which  were  ib 

long  the  Gods  of  their  Forefathers.     Except  67.  Sophia  at  Conjlantinople, 

<  there 


The  Vrefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church.  89 

there  have  been  very  few  great  Churches  among  them,  not  even  when  their  Letter  III. 

Empire  was  in  the  heighth  of  its  Glory.    Some  old  Churches  that  ftill  re-  '^~^r^~' 

main,  have  two  Naves,  both  cover'd  in  with  fharp-rais'd  vaulted  Roofs ;  and 

the  Steeple,  which  might  as  well  be  left  out  of  the  Building  for  any  Bells 

it  is  troubled  with,  ftands  between  the  two  Roofs  in  the  Front :  all  thefe 

Structures  are  generally  upon  the  fame  Plan,  moft  of  them  in  the  fhape 

of  a  Greek,  that  is,  a  fquare  Crofs.     The  Greeks  have  preferv'd  the  an- 

tient  Ufe  of  Domes,  which  they  do  not  execute  much  amifs  :  the  Choir 

of  the  Churches  always  faces  the  Eaft  ;  and  when  they  pray,  they  turn  to 

that  fide.     Their  ufual  Prayers,  after  reiterated  Signs  of  the  Crofs,  confifl 

in  the  frequent  Repetition  of  thefe  words,  Lord  have  mercy  upon  us !  Chrift  J^4  «*«w» 

b.tve  mercy  upon  us  !  mis^  \hinmv 

THEY  are  too  obfervant  of  the  Laws  of  Nature  in  the  Greek  Church,  wk'v.*" 
not  to  forbid  the  Women  entrance  into  their  Churches  at  certain  times : 
they  are  obliged  to  remain  at  the  Door ;  and  as  if  their  Breath  was  tainted, 
they  are  not  fufFer'd  to  communicate  in  that  condition,  nor  to  kifs  any 
Image.     They  are  not  fo  fcrupulous  in  thole  Monafleries  where  they  keep 
Women  to  warn  the  Monks  Linen.     The  Images  in  their  Churches  are 
all  flat,  and  you  never  fee  any  Sculpture  there,  except  it  be  fome  flight 
Incifion.     In  greater  Churches,  they  have '  Sextons,  '  Door-keepers,  and  '  2«w?w«?. 
'  Church-wardens  :  formerly  there  was  a 4  Pulpit  fet  apart  for  the  Preacher,  *  Tvfu&{-f 
but  they  are  very  rarely  to  be  met  with  now,  Preaching  being  almofl  ti  K«*/WX'*V ' 
wholly  difufed  among  them ;  and  if  a  Papas  does  undertake  to  meddle  JJ^  Sa  «. 
with  it,  he  acquits  himfelf  moft  wretchedly,    and  does  it  only  for  the  £*»'>  *)*% 
fake  of  the  two  Crowns  that  are  allow'd  for  the  Sermon,  which  is  not 
worth  the  Mony.     It  is  a  fhame  to  hear  thofe  Priefls  fpend  half  an 
hour  in  diflilling  as  it  were,   about  twenty  words   fadly  mifmatched, 
which  for  the  generality  the  Curate  underftands  as  little  as  the  Congre- 
gation. 

THE  Monafleries  are  built  in  a  uniform  manner;  the  Church  always 
ftands  in  the  middle  of  the  Court,  fb  that  the  Cells  lie  round  about  it. 
Thefe  People  have  not  that  Variety  in  their  Tafle  that  we  have  ;  a  De- 
fect not  at  all  to  be  prais'd,  fince  Variety  is  of  great  ufe  to  the  perfecting 
of  Arts.  It  is  vifible  by  the  old  Belfries  of  the  Monafleries,  that  the 
Greeks  never  had  any  great  Bells ;  and  fince  the  Turks  have  forbidden 
Vol.  I.  N  them 


po  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

them  the  ufe  of  all,  they  hang  with  Ropes  to  the  Boughs  of  Trees,  Plates 
of  Iron,  like  thofe  Rims  which  are  fix'd  round  Cart-Wheels,  crooked, 
about  half  an  inch  thick,  and  three  or  four  broad,  with  a  few  holes  drill'd 
through  them  :  they  chime  upon  thefe  Plates  with  little  Iron  Hammers, 
to  call  the  Monks  to  Church.  They  have  another  ibrt  of  Chime,  which 
they  endeavour  to  tune  to  the  fame  Key  with  thofe  Iron  Plates:  they 
'  To  SiVar-  hold  in  one  hand  a  wooden '  Lath,  about  four  or  five  inches  broad, 
'tkIw.  '  which  they  ftrike  with  a  wooden  Hammer ;  you  may  imagine  what  a  Con- 
tort it  makes.  That  which  they  have  at  their  Feafts  on  High  Days,  is  but 
little  more  tolerable  ;  they  jingle  a  Copper  Bowl,  by  ftriking  upon  it 
with  the  Haft  of  a  Knife,  while  the  Monks  fing  through  the  Nofe  like 
our  Capuchins. 

AS  to  the  Exterior  of  Religion,  it  mull:  be  own'd  to  be  flill  pretty 

regular  among  the  Greeks :  their  Ceremonies  are  fine,  and  that's  all ;  never 

ask  them  for  an  Account  of  their  Faith,  for  they  are  miferably  tutor'd. 

Neither  are  we  to  expect  to  find  among  them  thole  regular  Churches  of 

old,  which  their  Hiftorians  delcribe,  and  which  were  divided  into  three 

parts;  to  wit,  the  Veftibulum  or  Fore-Nave,  the  Nave,  and  the  Sanctua- 

'  n*'$^5  £    ry  :  there  remain  no  more  now,  than  thefe  two  laft  parts.     The  *  Vefti- 

bulum  was  the  firft  part  you.  met  with  at  entring  the  Church :  it  was 

f  b*»W«»'  properly  a  By-place,  let  apart  for  the '  Baptiftery,  for  thole  that  were 

4k*7»x*kV«>  condemn' d  to  do  Penance,   for  4  Catechumens,  and  for5  Energumenes; 

be  inflrueicd :  and  feparated  from  the  reft  of  the  Church  by  a  Wall  or  Partition,  about 

fefn?*0'  "    the  heighth  of  a  Man.     Two  of  thefe  Veftibulums  were  contriv'd  at  the 

'  trtfyifj/itsi  Entrance  of  the  Church  of  St.  Sophia  at  Confiantinople. 

EnrJusoafi.     FROM  this  Fore-Nave,  you  pafs'd  into  the  *  Nave  by  three  Doors, 

' N**'"  ,  „  the  chief  of  which  was   call'd  the  7  Gate-Royal :    the  Nave  is  (till  the 

x)  z*nkrM.    greateft  Divifion  of  the  Greek  Churches.     They  fit,  or  rather  ftand,  in 

Chairs  fix'd  up  againft  the  Wall,  in  fuch  manner  that  the  People  leem  to 

•  ©o>'w.       be  upon  their  legs.     The 8  Patriarch's  Seat  is  the  highefl:  of  all,  in  the 

Patriarchal  Churches ;  thole  of  the  other  Metropolitans  are  lower :  the 

» KvitxoyAov.   Readers,  Chanters,  and  meaner  Clerks  fit  oppofite ;  and  the  9  Desk  upon 

which  the  Scripture  is  read,  is  placed  there  alio.     The  Nave  is  feparated 

'•'E/mkoju'-    from  the  Sanctuary  by  a  Partition'0  all  gilt  and  painted,  rais'd  from  the 

Ground  to  the  very  Cieling :  this  Partition  has  three  Doors  ;  the  middle- 

moft 


,»,. 

K&      1          /I 

-fbp.&o. 

'||»*8Mlllll  llllllWB^^^^JBIfe-/^ 

Be/A/  t\/2///i 

>L      IV             ^Prl 

L  77?<??tA*(  to 

1        \                W: 

/            \                 Ml'     : 

A 

2Lun  *\y     Rr-"  s 

Mm 

""^T    L^    8 

fjKfc    i 

^^^^^^^= 

> 

-7<r 


The  Prefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church.  9  r 

moft  is  call'd  the  '  Holy  Door,  which   is  never  open'd  but  during  fo-  Letter  III. 
Jemn  Offices,  and  at  Mafs  when  the  Deacon  goes  out  to  read  the  Gofpel ; .  r^TJ^ 
or  when  the  Prieft  carries  in  the  Elements  to  confecrate  them  ;  or  laftly, 
when  he  takes  his  Seat  there,  to  give  the  Communion. 

THE  '  Sanctuary  is  the  higheft-rais'd  part  of  the  whole  Church,  and  ',^'f'«"; 
terminates  in  a  '  Half-Arch,     Here  they  celebrate  the  Holy  Myfteries .  hfw  bW  *j 
for  which  reafbn  none  are  admitted  into  it,  befides  the  Minifters  of  the"""**'""1'' 
Lord,  the  Patriarch,  the  Archbifhops,  the  Bifhops,  the  Priefts,  and  the  Kife. 
Deacons ;  the  Greek  Emperors  themfelves  had  no  place  in  it,  but  fate  in 
the  Nave.     There  are  three  Altars  rais'd  in  the  Sanctuary:  the 4  Holy  *  '&*>  '"&> 
Table  ftands  in  the  middle,  and  upon  this  they  fet  the  Crofs  and  the  Book  r^m^. 
of  the  Gofpels.     This  Altar  was  formerly  cover'd  by  a  fort  of  s  Canopy . s  KiCawr. 
the  *  Altar  on  the  left  hand  as  you  go  into  the  San&uary  is  not  fo  large  "n^W. 
as  the  Holy  Table  ;  here  they  lay  the  Bread  that  is  to  be 7  confecrated. '  ~r&-m& 
The  third  Altar  is  on  the  right,  and  made  ufe  of  to  hold  the  facred  Vef-  $  ^muvnir- 
fels,  the  Books,  and  the  Sacerdotal  Habits :  the  Deacons  and  Sub-deacons 
fland  near  this  Altar,  which  is  of  the  lame  fize  and  form  as  that  on  which 
they  put  the  Bread  that  is  defign'd  for  Confecration. 

THE  Prieft  that  is  to  fay  Mafs,  begins  with  making  three  *  Signs  of 's-w^V*^ 
the  Crofs,  in  honour  of  the  Holy  Trinity ;  firft  upon  his  Forehead,  then  rTe*""""*e"* 
on  his  right  Shoulder,  and  afterwards  on  his  left :  and  concludes  with  a 
profound  Inclination  of  Body  at  each  Sign  of  the  Crofs. 

H  E  firft  puts  on  a  kind  of 9  Albe,  of  brocaded  Silk,  or  fbme  other  •  st^j* 
Stuff  tolerably  rich ;    for  the  Greeks  fpare  no    Coft    to  get  fumptuous  B,Zfi'Jn^he 
Ornaments.    Secondly,  he  puts  on  a  "  Stole  :  Thirdly,  a  broad  "  Girdle,  jj*»  alfi , 
flat  like  a  Ribband:   Fourthly, " brocaded  Cuffs  :    Fifthly,   a  piece  of f»- 
fquare  "  Brocade,  about  fevenor  eight  inches  large,  faften'd  by  one  of  its  ^  £^71^' 
corners  to  his  Girdle  on  the  right  fide :  Sixthly,  a  '4  Cope  of  Brocade  open  *""'• 
only  at  top,  and  which  the  Prieft  tucks  up  above  his  Arms ;  to  this  Cope  ■  ■  rJuwin 
they  faften  with  a  Pin,  between  the  Shoulders,  a  little  fquare  "  piece  of  $  k****'***. 
Brocade,   three  inches  large,  placed  in  form  of  a  Lozenge.     All  rhefe  >$  -n  rmjg- 
Pieces  are  pretty  well  defcribedin  our  Plate,  except  the  firft  fquare  Piece  v*™i  q^  . 
of  Brocade,  which  inftead  of  falling  down  upon  the  right,  feems  there"'  *f»i^">"* 
to  be  on  the  left,  becaufe  the  Figure  was  turn'd  in  taking  off  the  De-  »»aW>  *a,W 
fign.    The  poorer  fort  of  Papas  make  all  thefe  Ornaments  of  Linen.         *' n*-** 

N  2  THE 


9 2  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

THE  Prieft  being  veiled,  lets  about  the  Preparation  of  the  Bread 
andWineatthe  little  Altar  on  the  left  hand;  inftead  of  which,  in  ordi- 
nary Chappels  they  make  ufe  of  a  Hole  cut  into  the  Wall :  hence  he 
'  n&w&'    takes  the  Bread  defign'd  for  the  Sacrifice.     This  '  Bread  is  of  Wheat  le- 
1  ZtswJ*.    vened,  and  there  is  ftamp'd  upon  it  with  a  wooden  2  Mold,  before  it  is 

put  into  the  Oven,  the  following  Characters,  which  fig- 
■v-  nify,  Jefus  Chrift  is  Conqueror.  If  there  is  no  Bread  fb 
mmm4    ftamp'd,  the  Papas  draws  thofe  Characters  upon  a  common 


N/xct.  1.V* 


►« 


Nr      K       ^oa^  wit^  t^ie  ^oint  °^  a  K-niie  ;  then  he  cuts  the  piece  of 
Craft,  upon  which  they  appear,  into  a  Square.     In  doing 
I'AyiaAcftf.  this,  he  muft  ufe  a  Knife  that  is  ihaped  like  a s  Lance,  to  reprefent  that 
with  which  the  Side  of  our  Lord  was  pierced. 

THIS  Piece  being  put  into  the  Balbn,  he  pours  the  Wine  and  Water 
into  the  Chalice  :  he  afterwards  lifts  up  a  piece  of  the  Craft  of  the  lame 
Loaf,  which  he  cuts  into  a  Triangle  of  about  an  inch  long,  and  much 
fmaller  than  the  great  Piece  which  contains  the  Letters.  He  then  offers 
the  Sacrifice  to  the  Lord,  in  the  Name  of  the  Virgin. 

HE  takes,  with  the  Point  of  his. Knife,  a  Piece  of  Cruft,  as  big  as 
a  Lentil,  for  St.  John  the  Baptift,  whofe  Name  he  pronounces;  doing  in 
like  manner  at  lifting  up  each  of  the  following  Parcels  :  that  is  to  fay, 
pronouncing  the  feveral  Names  at  each  Parcel. 

ANOTHER  Parcel  for  the  Prophets  Mofes,  Aaron,  Eli  as,  Eli/hah, 
David. 

THE  fame  for  St.  Peter,  St.  Paul,  and  the  reft  of  the  Apoftles. 
FOR  the  Holy  Fathers  and  Doctors,   St.  Bajil,  St.  Gregory,  St.  John 
Chryfofiom,  St.  Athanafius,  St.  Cyril,  St.  Nicholas  Bifhop  of  Myra. 

FOR  the  firft  Martyrs,  St.  Stephen,  St. George,  St.  Demetrius,  St.  The- 
odore. 

FOR  the  Hermits,  St.  Anthony,  St.  Euthymius,  St. Saba,  St. Onuphrius, 
St.  Arfenius,  St.  Athanafius  of  Mount  Athos. 

FOR  St.  Cofmus,  St.  Damian,  St.  Pantaleon,  St.  Hermolaus. 
FOR  St.  Joachim,  St.  Anne,  and  for  the  Saint  in  whofe  honour  they 
perform  the  Mafs. 

FOR  the  Perfon  that  caufes the  Mafs  to  be  faid. 
FOR  the  Patriarchs,  and  for  the  Chriftian Princes. 

HE 


The  Trefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church.  03 

H  E  lifts  up  as  many  Parcels  of  the  fame  Cruft,  as  he  recommends  Letter  III* 
Perfbns  to  God.  v-#v%-» 

H  E  does  the  like,  in  praying  for  the  Dead. 

LASTLY,  He  puts  a  Crofs  '  of  Silver  or  Tin  over  the  *  Bafon,  in  ''o^dam. 
which  are  all  the  Portions  of  Bread  that  are  to  be  confecrated :  this  Crofs  A(°WfA>,°f 
hinders  the'  Veil  with  which  he  covers  it,  fromfwagging  down  upon  thofe  >  -ra  a/w^-. 
Portions.     After  having  fet  theBalbn  at  the  foot  of  the  Chalice  wherein  M(irA' 
are  the  Wine  and  Water,  he  leaves  them  on  that  little  Altar,  and  goes  to 
the  great  one  to  begin  Mafs ;  but  he  returns  to  take  the  Bafon  and  Chalice 
at  the  time  of  the  Confecration  :  then  he  carries  them  to  the  great  Altar, 
palling  through  the  little  Door  on  the  left  hand,  and  re-entring  into  the 
Sanctuary  by  the  middle  Door.     Through  inexcufable   Ignorance,   the 
Greeks  adore  the  Bread  and  Wine  in  this  PalTage,  though  they  are  not  yet 
confecrated ;  whereas  at  the  time  of  their  Confecration,  they  extinguifh 
the  Candles,  and  think  no  more  of  that  Holy  Myftery.     This  may  per. 
haps  be  a  Remnant  of  the  Herefy  broach'd  by  Mark  of  Ephefas,  that  the 
Confecration  was  done  by  the  Prayers  of  the  Prieft,  and  not-  by  virtue 
of  the  Sacramental  Words.     Be  this  as  it  will,  it  is  certain  thefe  poor 
Wretches,  for  want  of  being  better  taught,  fhew  much  more  Devotion 
and  Refpedt  before,  than  after  the  Confecration.     The  Prieft  having  fet 
the  Chalice  and  Bafon  upon  the  great  Altar,  breaks  the  biggeft  piece  of  A?nyj,&ti<tr 
Cruft  crofs-wife,  and  puts  the  four  parts  into  the  Chalice,  with  all  the 
Parcels ;  he  pours  a  little  hot  Water,  repeating  the  Sacramental  Words  :  ©eft*3»  £ 
if  there  are  no  Communicants,  the  Papas  alone  confumes  all  that  is  in 
the  Bafon  and  Chalice:  if  there  are  Communicants,  he  gives  them  each  ..    ,   ,„ 
a  Spoonful :  Come  mar,  fays  the  Prieft,  ftanding  at  the  Door  of  the  Sane-  &*i *r'men  $ 
tuary,  come  near ,  with  the  Fear  of  God,  with  Faith,  and  with  Charity.  tnAtliT^' 

THOSE  that  are  to  communicate,  prepare  themfelves  by  re-iterated  'h  'eu^/j/*.-. 
Signs  of  the4  Crofs,  accompany'd  with  profound  Inclinations  of  the  Bo-  \  ^^"V*. 
dy.    s  Adoration  and '  Penance  differ  among  the  Greeks  in  this ;  in  Ado- « n(\a 
ration  they  make  Inclination  only  with  half  their  Body,  mixed  by  fe- 
veral  Signs  of  the  Crofs ;  whereas  in  Penance,  befides  the  Inclinations 
of  Body  and  Signs  of  the  Crofs,  they  fall  down  upon  their  knees,  and 
kifs  the  Earth.     In  order  to  make  the  Sign  of  the  Crofs  regularly,  they 
join  together  the  three  firft  Fingers_of  the  Right  Hand,  to  figuify  that 

there 


l&vcia. 


94.  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

there  is  but  one  God  in  three  Perfons.    They  carry  this  Hand  to  the 
Forehead,  afterwards  to  the  right  Shoulder,  and  then  to  the  left,  repeat- 
*A}to(  l  &««,   ing  theie  words ;  Holy  God,  Holy  and  Mighty  God ;  Holy  and  Immortal  God, 
"AyioiJ&t'vA-  have  mercy  upon  us  ! 

JJS^JSb         THE  Papas  puts  the  Ritual  upon  the  Head  of  the  Communicant, 

-p^yfMM^  and  lays  the  Prayers  for  the  Forsivenefs  of  Sins ;  while  the  Communi- 

cant  fays  foftly  to  himfelf,  /  believe,  0  Lord,  and  confefs  that  thou  art  truly 

the  Son  of  the  living  God,  and  thou  camejl  into  the  World  for  the  Salvation 

of  Sinners,  of  which  I  am  the  greatefi.     The  Papas  giving  him  in  a  Spoon 

■  A«C/f,  a*-  >  the  conlecrated  Bread  and  Wine,  pronounces  thefe  words  ;  Thou,  calling 

jtS,.  him  by  his  Chriflian  Name,  Servant  of  God,  receive  the  precious  and  mofi 

holy  Body  and  Blood  of  our  Lord  Jefus  Chrifl,  for  the  Remiffion  of  thy  Sins, 

and  for  Eternal  Life. 

THE  antient  way  of  Communion  among  the  Greeks,  was  a  little  dif- 
ferent from  what  it  is  now :  the  Penitent  being  come  to  the  Door  of  the 
San&uary,  proftrated  himfelf,  and  worlhip'd  God,  with  his  Face  to  the  Eaft: 
then  turning  to  the  Well,  he  addrefs'd  thele  words  to  the  Congregation ; 
Let  us  forgive  one  another,  my  Brethren  :  we  have  finned  in  our  Actions,  and 
in  our  Words.  The  Congregation  anfwer'd,  God  will  forgive  us,  my  Bre- 
thren. He  repeated  the  lame  Ceremony  towards  the  South  and  North. 
Then  advancing  towards  the  Priell,  he  ufed  this  beautiful  Form  of 
Speech  ;  0  Lord,  I  will  not  give  thee  the  Kjfs  of  Judas  ;  but  I  will  confefs 
thy  Faith,  after  the  example  of  the  good  Thief :  Remember  thy  Servant,  0 
Lord,  when  thou  comefi  into  thy  Kjngdom.  The  Priell  gave  him  the 
Communion,  faying,  The  Servant  of  God  receives  the  Communion,  in  the 
Name  of  the  Father,  of  the  Son,  and  of  the  Holy  Ghojl,  for  the  Remijjion  of 
his  Sins.     So  be  it. 

THE  Holy  Sacrament  is  not  carry'd  with  due  Refpect  to  the  Houles 

•  M*f>*f,77,    of  the  Sick ;  the  Conlecrated  Elements  are  in  a  a  wooden  Box,  that  is  kept 

fm.    ?7tffl"  in  a  Linen  Bag  hung  up  in  the  Sanctuary  of  the  great  Churches,  where 

there  is  a  Lamp  burning  night  and  day :  this  Bag  is  put  behind  the  door  in 

ordinary  Churches ;  the  Priell  takes  it  under  his  Arm,  and  goes  his  way 

to  the  fick  Perlbn  by  himfelf. 

W  H  AT  remains  of  the  Loaf,   off  of  which  the  Priell  has  cut  the 
Pieces  to  be  confecrated,  is  divided  into  little  Bits,  and  dillributed  to  the 

Faithful 


The  Trefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church.  og 

Faithful  by  the  name  of  Holy  Bread.     The  Man  or  Woman  that  kneads  Letter  III. 
the  Bread  defign'd  for  Confecration,  muft  be  pure ;  that  is  to  fay,  the  ^/£V 
Man  muft  not  have  known  his  Wife,  nor  the  Woman  her  Husband,  the  ^,l  &&' 
Eve  of  the  Day  on  which  the  Bread  is  made.     So  mnch  for  the  Mafs  and 
Communion  of  the  Greeks. 

AS  to  Confeffion,  it  was  practis'd  among  them  in  a  very  edifying  confession. 
manner  before  the  Decadence  of  their  Church.     The  Prieft  began  with        «*'•'*•• 
this  wholefome  Advice ;  The  Angel  of  the  Lord,  is  at  ■your  elbow,  to  hear  from 
your  own  mouth  the  Confeffion  of  your  Sins  :  take  good  heed  how  you  conceal  the 
leafl  Particular,  either  out  of  fhame,  or  any  other  motive.     After  Declara- 
tion of  his  Sins,  he  again  exhorted  him  to  hide  nothing,  to  perform  Acts 
of  Contrition,  enjoin'd  him  Penance,  and  gave  him  Ablblution  in  thefe 
terms :  By  the  Power  which  Jefus  Chrifi  vefted  in  his  Apojlles,  when  he  faid 
to  them,  Whatever  ye  fhall  bind  upon  Earth,  fhallbe  bound  in  Heaven  ;  by  that 
Power  which  the  Apojlles  communicated  to  the  Bifhops,  and  which  I  received  of 
him  that  gave  me  the  Prieflhood,  thou  art  abfolved  from  thy  Sins  by  the  Far- 
ther, the  Son,  and  the  Holy  Ghofi  :  So  be  it.     Thou  fbalt  receive  among  the- 
Jujl  the  Inheritance  which  is  due  to  thy  Works. 

AT  prefent  thofe  wretched  Papas  that  do  the  Function  of '  Confef-  nX^Wc "' 
fors,  know  not  fb  much  as  the  Form  of  Ablblution :  If  a  Penitent  ac- 
cufes  himlelf  of  having  ftolen,  they  firft  ask  him  whether  from  a  Native 
or  a  Prank ;  if  he  replies,  from  a  Frank,  there's  no  Sin  in  that,  quoth  the  r 
Papas,  provided  we  mare  the  Spoil.      Confeffion  among  the  modern 
Greeks  is  in  effect  no  more  than  the  Exaction  of  the  Tax,  which  the 
Priefts  have  arbitrarily  impos'd  upon  each  Sin,  with  an  eye  to  the  Sub- 
ftance  of  the  Perfons  that  confefs  themfelves  guilty.     The  Monks  of  •  "Ea*«„,  £~ 
Monte  Santo  roam  all  over  Greece,  and  Mufcovy  too,  during  Advent  and  Ztld  Tepeikn-  - 
Lent,  to  fell  their  *  Oil :  and  thofe  Monks  vifit  Peoples  Houfes,  to  hear dos,  moibos 

'     ■  *  r  '  utebantur.  Vid. 

Confeftions  (for  the  Curates  feldom  meddle   with   that  Office)  and  toViiams.  pa- 
give  Extreme  Unction  to  Perfons  in  full  health;  they  anoint  the  Peni-  30. &vS 
tent's  Backbone  for  each  Sin  that -he  declares,  always  taking  care  to  lofe  n'4E7utych" 
neither  their  Oil  nor  their  Pains  ;  the  lead  Unction  whatsoever  cofts  a  ;'  wt**  **fi 
Crown:  that  which  is  perform'd  for  the  Sin  of  the  Flefh,  is  the  deareft  *5*y85^!£ 
of  all;  and  as  this  Sin  is  moft  common,  you  may  judge  what  the  Tax/^/^t" 
amounts  to.     Thofe  that  apply  this  Unction   moft  regularly,  make  ufe  fed  [". throw 

f  r  •>  °  J '  ma  bit  of  the 

Of  true  Crof), 


96 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 


'hW*  nn-  of  facred  Oil,  and  pronounce  at  each  lick,  the  words  of  the  1 24th  Pfalrrr 
f/H<  Ippu'^H-     The  S  ft  are  is  broken,  and  we  are  delivered. 

^m^^Ta,  T  O  continue  to  defcribe  the  Pra&ice  of  the  other  Sacraments  among 
&  nos  liber.™  fa  Greeks,  you  will  permit  me,  my  Lord,  to  put  you  in  mind,  that  a- 
Baptism.  mong  them  Baptifm  is  perform'd  by  Immerfion ;  it  is  reiterated  three 
^k^tri'w*'  timesj  at  eacn  time  plunging  in  the  whole  Body  of  the  Child,  which  the 
Eaptifttry.      Curate  holds  under  the  Arms.     At  the  firft  Immerfion  he  pronounces  in  his 

Language  a  Form  of  Words,  that  fignify,  Such  a  one the  Servant  of  God, 

is  baptized  in  the  Name  of  the  Fathe-,  now,  for  ever,  and  in  Secula  Seculorum, 

At  the  fecond  Immerfion  he  fays,  Such  a  one the  Servant  of  God,  is 

baptized  in  the  Name  of  the  Son,  8cc.     At  the  third,  In  the  Name  of  the 

•  AydJb^i.     H0iy  Ghofi.     The  '  Godfather  anfvvers  every  time,  So  be  it.     The  Parents 

do  not  ufually  prefent  the  Child  till  eight  days  after  its  Birth  ;  on  the 

day  of  its  Baptifm,  they  take  care  to  warm  a  quantity  of  Water,  and  to 

throw  into  it  Flowers  of  a  grateful  Scent :  after  the  Papas  has  blown  it 

and  blefs'd  it,  pouring  into  it  fome  facred  Oil,  with  which  they  anoint 

the  Body  of  the  Child  fo  thorowly,  that  hardly  any  of  the  Water  can 

J  ri  smMtsi-  dwell  upon  it,  they  throw  into  a  *  Hole  that   is  under  the  Altar,  all  that 

has  been  ufed  in  this  Ceremony.      The  Greeks  fb  firmly  believe  that 

fprinkling  of  Water  on  the  Head  of  the  Child  among  us  is  infiifficient  for 

Baptifm,    that  frequently  they  rebaptize  the  Latins  who  embrace  their 

Communion. 

conftrma-       AFTER  having  baptiz'd  the  Child,  and  faid  fome  Prayers,  they  give 

rmv'tw  n    ll  Confirmation  :  This  is  the  Seal  of  the  Gift  of  the  Holy  Ghofi,  fays  the 

Xfirt"1."-      Curate,  applying  the  holy  Chrifm  to  its  Forehead,  Eyes,  Noflrils,  Mouth, 

Ears,  Breaft,  Hands,  and  Feet :  they  afterwards  give  it  the  Communion, 

tho  oftentimes  it  throws  out  half  the  confecrated  Bread  and  Wine  that 

is  put  into  its  mouth.     Seven  days  after  Baptifm,  they  carry  the  Child 

to  Church,  to  perform  the  Ablution  ;  the  Curate  repeating  the  Prayers  fet 

down  in  the  Ritual,  not  only  wafhes  the  Child's  Shirt,  but  with  a  new 

•  To  s*£*v<*.  Spunge,  or  a  neat  [  Linen  Cloth,  cleans  its  whole  Body,  and  fends  it  away 

with  this  Form  of  Words  ;  Thou  hafi  now  been  baptized,  enlightened  with 

the  Heavenly  Light,  fort  iff  d  with  the  Sacrament  of  Confirmation,  fanfiiffd 

and  waflSd,  in  the  Name  of  the  Father,  of  the  Son,  and  of  the  Holy  Ghofi. 

THE 


ir     j 


The  Prefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church.  97 

THE  Greeks  more  frequently  confer  Extreme  Un&ion  upon  Perfons  Letter  III. 
in  Health  than  upon  the  Sick,  as  we  juft  now  laid:  ufually  they  anoint  e^^v~* 
only  the  Forehead,  Cheeks,  Chin,  and  Hands  of  the  Sick,  with  common  j?^10^ 
Oil  that  has  never  been  blelTed ;  afterwards  with  the  fame  Liquor  they 
dawb  all  the  Rooms  in  the  Houle,  all  the  while  repeating  of  Prayers,  and  goXvft  c 
draw  great  CrolTes  upon  the  Walls  and  Doors,  while  they  fing  the  90th  fc^o- 

Plalm.  rioAhiffirai, 

THEY  do  not  give  Priefthood'  to  Deacons  upon  account  of'Ho-  ,,„T 
linels  of  Life  or  Proofs  of  Learning  ;  they  rely  intirely  upon  the  publick 
Voice,  which  is  not  always  lb  fure  a  Recommendation,  as  an  exacl:  Search 
into  the  Life  and  Manners,  and  a  due  Examination  of  the  Doctrines  of 
the  Perfbns  that  offer  themfelves.  They  never  now  confult  the  antient 
Canons  about  the  requifite  Age,  or  about  the  Interval  that  mould  be  kept 
between  the  feveral  Orders  ;  the  Bilhop  confers  them  all  in  courfe,  in  three 
or  four  days :  in  a  word,  any  Deacon  may  be  admitted  Prieft,  tho  but  fifteen 
Years  old,  provided  he  have  Mony,  and  no  avow'd  Enemy.  The  Bilhop 
puts  the  queftion  to  the  Congregation  aloud  in  the  Church,  whether  they 
think  the  Deacon  there  prefent  to  be  worthy  of  the  Priefthood :  if  all 
cry,  worthy,  which  they  generally  do,  his  Confecration  prefently  fol-  *A§wf*Ag«. 
lows:  if  on  the  contrary  but  one  oppofes  it,  he  is  incapacitated  for  that  'AvJZw. 
bout  ;  he  muft  try  to  appeafe  his  Enemy  either  by  Mony  or  Submiflion. 
He  is  generally  allow' d  a  fecond  or  a  third  Prefentation ;  yet  fome  have 
been  known  to  ruin  themfelves  in  Expences,  and  never  arrive  at  it.  The 
Greeks  are  very  revengeful,  and  a  Family-Quarrel  cannot  always  be  made 
up  among  them  with  Mony ;  they  are  not  apt  to  pardon  even  Relations. 

THE  Ceremonies  of  Marriage  amus'd  us  agreeably  one  day  at  Mycone  ;  Marriage. 
we  accompany'd  the  Couple  to  Church  with  their  Godfather  and  Godmo-  <*fM< 
ther,  they  are  even  permitted  to  chuie  three  or  four ;  and  this  is  done 
chiefly  when  the  Bride  is  the  eldeft  Daughter  of  the  Family.  I  have  not 
been  able  to  learn  for  what  realbn  ihe  has  the  advantage  above  the  reft  of 
the  Family  :  for  a  Man  that  has  ten  thoufand  Crowns,  for  example,  gives 
five  thoufand  to  his  eldeft  Daughter  ;  and  though  there  be  a  dozen  other 
Children,  they  have  no  more  than  ihares  of  the  other  half. 

AFTER  the  Papas  had  receiv'd  the  Company  at  the  Gate  of  the 
Church,  he  ask'd  the  Confent  of  the  Parties,  and  put  upon  each  of  their 
Vol.  I.  O  heads 


9 8  ^f  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

ib  zrw>-  heads  a  Garland  of  Vine-Branches,  adorn'd  with  Ribbands   and  Laces : 

&  he  afterwards  took  two  Rings  that  were  on  the  Altar,  and  put  them  on 

their  Fingers ;  to  wit,  the  Gold  Ring  on  the  Bridegroom's,  and  the  Silver 

on  the  Bride's;  laying,  Such  a  one the  Servant  of  God,  efpoufeth  fuch 

a  one m  the  Name  of  the  Father,  of  the  Son,  and  of  the  Holy  Ghoft,  now 

and  always,  and  for  evermore.     So  be  it.     He  changed  the  Rings  from  the 
Finger  of  one  to  that  of  the  other  above  thirty  times  ;  putting  the  Bride's 

upon  the  Finger  of  the  Bridegroom,  he  laid,  Such  a  one the  Servant  of 

God,  efpoufes,  &c.  Then  he  again  fell  to  changing  the  Rings  feveral 
times,  and  left  the  Gold  Ring  with  the  Bridegroom,  and  the  Silver  with 
the  Bride.  Thus  far  we  had  nothing  to  grumble  at ;  but  we  thought  it 
very  ftrange,  that  the  Godfather  and  Godmother  mould  fpend  as  much 
time  as  the  Papas  had  done,  in  the  fame  fport :  you  may  guefs  what  a 
fine  tedious  piece  of  work  'tis,  when  there  are  four  Godfathers  and  as 
many  Godmothers.  The  two  that  were  concern'd  in  this  Wedding 
rais'd  the  Garlands  three  or  four  inches  above  the  heads  of  the  Bride  and 
Bridegroom,  and  with  them  went  three  times  in  a  round,  while  the  Com- 
pany, Relations,  Friends,  Neighbours,  very  civilly  gave  them  Kicks  and 
Cuffs,  according  to  I  know  not  what  ridiculous  Cuftom  which  they  have 
in  that  Country  ;  there  was  no  body  but  we  that  (pared  them,  and  they 
imputed  our  fb  doing  to  our  want  of  Good-Breeding.  After  this  Dance, 
the  Papas  cut  little  pieces  of  Bread,  which  he  put  into  a  Porrenger  with 
lome  Wine  ;  he  eat  of  it  firit  himfelf,  and  then  gave  a  Spoonful  to  the 
Husband,  and  another  to  the  Wife :  all  the  Company  tailed  of  it  too ; 
and  we  fhould  have  been  counted  very  rude,  had  we  refus'd  it.  Thus 
ended  the  Efpoufals  :  the  Prieft  did  not  fay  Mats,  becaufe  the  Ceremony 
was  done  in  the  Evening.  The  fame  day  their  Relations,  Friends,  and 
Neighbours  fent  them  in  Sheep,  Calves,  Fowls,  and  Wine  ;  they  lived 
merrily  for  two  months :  and  fo  they  do  after  Burials,  which  among  the 
Greeks  are  the  greateft  times  of  Jolhtry.  Thefe  Burials  are  perform'd  in 
mod  doleful  fort ;  we  were  furpriz'd  at  one  in  the  Ifland  of  Milo :  the 
bufinefs  pafs'd  as  follows. 

THE  Wife  of  one  of  the  principal  Men  in  the  City,  over  againft 
whofe  Houfe  we  lodg'd,  expired  two  days  after  our  Arrival.  Scarce  had 
/he  given  up  the  Ghoft,  before  we  heard  extravagant  Cries,  which  made 

us 


The  Prefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church.  pp 

us  inquire  what  was  the  matter  I  they  told  us,  that  according  to  the  an-  Letter  III. 
tient  Greek  Cuftom  the  publick  '  Weepers  were  doing  their  Duty  over  the  ,v-y^^>^ 
Body  of  the  Deceas'd.     Thefe  Women  really  earn  their  Mony  hard,  and  ?pu  «;  m^- 
Horace  had  good  reafon  to  fay,  that  thele  Folks  give  themfelves  more  /aMm!"'^' 
plague  and  uneafmefs,  than  thole  that  mourn  naturally.     Thefe  hireling  w?nluHereslIa'd.' 
Gnevers  lhriek  and  beat  their  Breads  mod  luftily,  while  fbme  others  of  'amemandum 
their  gang  fing  '  Elegies  in  praife  of  the  dead  Peribn  :  and  their  Songs  are  duct*,  qUK 
fo  contriv'd,  as  to  ferve  for  any  Age,  Sex,  or  Quality  whatfbever.     During  pu^endi'mo- 
this  Clutter,  they  from  time  to  time  apoftrophiz'd  the  Lady  newly  de- y™- . Fe^tm 
fund: :  we  thought  the  Scene  a  very  odd  one.     Thou  art  happy,  laid  they  ;  "pJoram  in 

thou  may  ft  now  marry  fitch  a  Man. And  this  Man  was  fbme  old  Friend,  &  (admit  pro- 

that  cenforious  People  had  talk'd  of  for  the  Deceas'd.     We  recommend^™^' 
our  Kjnsfolk  to  thee,  laid  one  :  Our  Service  to  Gaffer  fitch  a  one,  laid  t'other :  mo-  Hor-  & 
and  a  thoufand  fuch  Fooleries.     After  this,  they  fell  again  to  their  cry- ,  Na.nia  „   - 
ing,  fhedding  floods  of  Tears,  interrupted  by  Sobs  and  Sighs,  that  feem'd  carmen  quod 
to  come  from  the  bottom  of  the  heart  3  they  fcratch  their  Breafts  ;  they  dand;  gratia, 
tear  their  Hair,  they  refolve  not  to  outlive  the  Deceas'd.  blTwil 

THE  March  of  the  Funeral  began  by  two  young  Peafants,  that  car-  s™3'""  *  (jr 

°  J  jo  nodali  edicto 

ry'd  each  a  wooden  Crofs,  follow'd  by  a  Papas  in  a  white  Cope,  attended  excommunka- 
by  fome  Papas  in  Stoles  of  different  colours,  their  Hair  uncomb'd,  and  quiln  eiTdem* 
but  indifferently  furnifla'd  with  Shoes  and  Stockins:  next  to  thefe  went  ^fu?enb"s)    - 

J  mulicas  &  que- 

the  Body  of  the  Lady  uncover 'd,  drefs'd  after  the  Greek  manner  in  her ru,as  nugatio- 
Wedding-Clothes ;   the  Husband  follow'd  the  Bier,   lupported  by  two  pro  Epitaphio 
Perfons  of  good  Confideration,   who  endeavour'd  with  weighty  Argu-  cdeb^"1™ 
ments  to  keep  him  from  expiring  :  though  by  the  way  it  was  whifper'd,  ^ifaraon  m 
that  his  Wife's  Dileale  was  nothing  but  Vexation.     One  of  her  Daughters,  Conc.Canhag. 
a  tall  handlbme  Girl,  her  Sifters,    and  fome  She-Relations,  march'd  in 
their  turn,   their    Hair  dilhevel'd,    and  leaning   on  the  Arms  of  their 
Friends.     When  their  Voices  fail'd  them,  and  they  knew   not  what  to 
fay  next,  they  laid  violent  hands  upon  their  Locks,  which  they  tugg'd 
heartily  from  one  fide  to  t'other.     As  Nature  cannot  long  conceal  it  lelf, 
it  is  eafy  to  diltinguifh  upon  thefe  occafions  which  of  them  adt  fincerely, 
and  which  counterfeit.     If  there  is  a  fine  Suit  of  Clothes  in  the  Town,  speaatm 
it  is  lure  to  come  out  this  day  :  the  She-Relations  and  Friends  are  glad  of  "'""'> 

t  ipectei™ 

the  opportunity  of  mewing  themfelves  in  all  their  belt  rigging  ;  whereas  ip&.    Ovid. 

Olib.  i.  de  Arte 
2  among  Amand. 


m  ve- 
veniunt 
enrur  ut 


ioo  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

among  us  it  is  dual  for  every  body  to  be  in  black:  but  all  this  does  not 
hinder  them  from  groaning  terribly.  It  mufl  be  own'd  the  Greeks,  both 
Men  and  Women,  are  very  tender-hearted :  when  any  body  dies  in  the 
Neighbourhood,  Friends,  Enemies,  Relations,  Neighbours,  Great  and 
Small,  think  themfelves  bound  to  fhed  Tears  ;  and  a  Man  would  be 
thought  a  very  ftrange  Fellow,  that  did  not  pretend  at  leaft  to  weep  as 
well  as  the  reft. 

THEY  do  not  fay  Mafs  for  the  Dead  on  the  day  that  the  Perfon  is 
bury'd ;  but  the  next  day  they  caufe  forty  to  be  faid  at  each  Parifh,  at 
Seven  Pence  per  Mafs.  When  the  Procefiion  was  come  to  the  Church, 
the  Papas  faid  with  a  loud  Voice  the  Office  for  the  Dead,  while  a  little 
Clerk  repeated  fome  of  David's  Pfalms  at  the  foot  of  the  Bier :  the  Of- 
fice being  ended,  they  diftributed  twelve  Loaves,  and  as  many  Bottles  of 
Wine,  to  fome  poor  People  at  the  Church-Gate  ;  they  gave  ten  Gazettes, 
or  Venetian  Pence,  to  each  Papas,  a  Crown  and  a  half  to  the  Bifhop  that 
■  'owwfcof.    accompany'd  the  Body  :    the  '  Great  Vicar,  the  '  Treafurer,  the  *  Archi- 

'  K^o2§.'vift>  wno  are  PaPas  tnat  P°ft&  tne  chief  Dignities  in  the  Church  after 
the  Bifhop,  received  double  what  was  given  to  that  Prelate.  After  this 
Diftribution,  one  of  the  Papas  put  on  the  Stomach  of  the  Defunct  a 
piece  of  broken  Potiherd,  whereon  was  graved  with  the  Point  of  a  Knife 

jefuso/Naza-  a  Crois,  and  the  ufual  Characters  INBI.     Then  they  took  their  leave 

reth,  King  of  1-11  1  111 

the  jews.        of  the  dead  Perlon ;  the  Relations,  and  particularly  the  Husband,  kifs'd 

her  Mouth  ;  this  is  an  indifpenfable  Duty,  tho  flie  had  died  of  the  Plague : 

her  Friends  embraced  her ;  her  Neighbours  faluted  her,  but  they  fprinkled 

no  Holy  Water  after  the  Interment.     They  waited  upon  the  Husband 

back  to  his  Houfe :  at  their  departure,  the  Weepers  began  their  noife  a- 

Su^dAfmmen-d  new>  anc*  at  nignt  tne  Relations  fent  in  the  Husband  a  good  Supper,  and 

wm  coaum,    came  to  give  him  comfort,  by  debauching  with  him  all  night. 

5 i)Tgiwiis a'i-      NINE  days  afterwards  they  fent  the  <  Colyva  to  Church  ;  Co  they  call 

mails  seTa-  eat  Bafon  fifo  of  fotfd  wheat,   garniih'd  with  blanch'd  Almonds, 

mum  dicta.  O  >     c  ' 

inft.  Rei  Herb,  dry'd  Raifins,  Pomegranates,  s  Sefamum,  and  fet  round  with  Sweet-Bafil, 
•xhe  seed  of  or  lbme  other  odoriferous  Herbs :  the  middle  is  rais'd  up  like  a  Sugar- 
'gkJ  a'gccd  Loaf,  top'd  with  a  Nofegay  of  artificial  Flowers  which  are  brought  from 
nitjh  to  the     yenice  ■  and  round  the  Rims  of  the  Bafon  they  lay  either  Susar  or  dry'd 

Bread  :  and  is  '  J        J  o  J 

tommonUj  cat  Comfits,  in  the  form  of  a  Crofs  of  Malta.     This  is  what  the  Greeks  call 

h)  the  People  ef  "  , 

■ht  Levant.  *  tne 


TheVrefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church.  101 

the  '  Offering  of  the  Colyva,  eftablifh'd  among  them  to  put  the  Faithful  in  Letter  III. 
mind  of  the  Refurre&ion  of  the  Dead,  according  to  Cbrift's  own-  words  ■  Y.ixvcH^ 
in  St.John  :  Verily,  verily,  I  fay  unto  you,  except  a  Corn  of  Wheat  fall  into  f^^" 
the  ground  and  die,  it  abideth  alone  ;  but   if  it   die,  it  bringeth  forth  much 
Fruit.     The  Defign  of  men   Ceremonies  cannot  be  difcommended,  and  mum  of  the 
thofe  that  instituted  them  were  full  of  the  Holy  Scripture  :  the  Comfits  Nfceph'caliift. 
and  Fruits  are  added  to  it,  only  to  make  the  boil'd  Wheat  lefs  difagree.  "tf^w^ia. 
able.    The  Grave-digger  carries  the  Colyva  on  his  head,  preceded  by  a 
Perfon    holding   two   large    Candleflicks   of  gilt  Wood,    adorn'd  with 
Rounds  of  very  broad  Ribband,  edg'd  with  a  Lace   half  a  foot  deep : 
this  Grave-digger  is  follow'd  by  three  Perfons,  one  carries  two  great  Bot- 
tles of  Wine,  another  two  Baskets  of  Fruit,  and  the  third  a  Turky-Carpct, 
which  they  fpread  on  the  Tomb  of  the  Defunct,  as  a  Table-Cloth  for  the . 
Colyva  and  Collation. 

WHILE  this  Offering  is  carrying  to  the  Church,  the  Papas  fays  the 
Office  for  the  Dead ;  he  then  devours  a  good  fhare  of  the  Feafl :  they 
invite  the  People  of  Fafhion  to  partake  of  their  Wine,  and  what  is  left, 
is  diftributed  among  the  Poor.  When  the  Offering  lets  out  from  home, 
the  Weepers  fet  up  their  throats  again  as  they  did  at  the  Burial:  Relations, 
Friends,  Neighbours,  make  the  fame  Grimaces.  In  recompence  for  all 
this  Sniveling,  each  Weeper  has  but  five  Loaves,  four  Pots  of  Wine, 
Half  a  Cheefe,  a  Quarter  of  Mutton,  and  Fifteen  Pence  in  Mony.  The- 
Kinsfolk  are  obliged  by  the  Cuftom  of  the  Country  to  weep  often,  over 
the  Tomb ;  and  to  fhew  the  Excefs  cf  their  Grief,  they  never  fhift  their. 
Clothes  in  that  time ;  the  Husbands  neglect  to  be  ihaved,  and  the  Wi- 
dows iuffer  themfelves  to  be  half  devour'd  with  Vermin  :  in  fbme  Iflands 
they  weep  inceffantly  in  their  Houfes.  Neither  the  Widows  nor  Wi- 
dowers fet  foot  into  the  Church,  nor  frequent  the  Sacraments,  during  the 
time  of  their  Mourning :  fometimes  the  Bifhops  and  Papas  are  obliged  to 
conftrain  them  to  communicate,  with  Menaces  of  Excommunication, 
which  the  Greeks  dread  more  than  Fire  it  felf.  As  to  the  Ceremonies  we 
have  mentioned,  they  differ  in  different  places ;  and  at  My  cone,  where  we 
winter'd,  we  faw  them  practis'd  as  follows. 

A  S  foon  as  the  Perfon  has  given  up  the  Ghoft,  they  ring  one  of  their 
Bells  •,  the  Relations,  Friends,  and  Weepers,  mourn  round  the  Body,  which 

they 


»2 


^'Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

they  carry  to  the  Church  loon  afterwards,  nay  they  feldom  Hay  till  'tis  quite 
cold  :  they  get  rid  of  it  as  foon  as  they  can,  without  giving  themfelves 
the  trouble  to  inquire  whether  it  died  of  a  lingering  Sicknefs,  or  whether 
it  be  only  dead  in  appearance,  as  Apoplecticks  have  fometimes  been,  and 
yet  recovered.  The  Funeral  flops  in  the  middle  of  the  chief  place; 
where  they  weep  very  bitterly,  at  lead  in  appearance.  The  Papas  fay 
the  Office  of  the  Dead  round  the  Corps  :  'tis  then  carry'd  to  the  Church, 
where  it  is  inhumed  after  reciting  a  few  Prayers,  accompany'd  with  Tears, 
Groans,  and  Sobs,  true  or  counterfeit. 

•  THE  next  day  they  again  ring  their  Bells  :  they  ferve  up  a  Colyva  in 
the  Houfe,  on  a  Carpet  fpread  on  the  ground ;  their  Friends  and  Rela- 
tions place  themfelves  round  it,  they  weep  for  two  hours,  while  Mafs  for 
the  Dead  is  faying  at  Church.  In  the  Evening  they  fend  thither  another 
Colyva,  with  a  Bottle  of  Wine  :  all  the  Kindred  and  Children  of  the  De- 
funct that  are  marry'd,  do  the  like.  This  is  divided  among  the  Papas 
that  recite  the  Office :  each  Man  eats  and  drinks  his  fill,  upon  condition 
that  he  drops  a  few  Tears  now  and  then,  for  Manners  lake. 

THE  third  day  in  the  morning  they  fend  other  Coly  vas ;  and  as  it  is 
ufual  to  lay  but  one  Mafs  a  day  in  Church,  the  Papas  take  their  fhare,  and 
officiate  in  their  own  Chappels.  The  other  days,  till  the  ninth,  they  fay 
MafTes  only  ;  the  ninth  day  they  perform  the  fame  Ceremony  as  the 
third. 

THE  fortieth  day  after  the  Perfon's  Death,  and  at  the  end  of  the 
third,  ftxth,  and  ninth  Months,  and  the  end  of  the  Year,  they  do  the 
lame  as  on  the  third  day;  never  failing  to  beftow  a  due  quantity  of  Tears. 
Every  year  the  Heirs  fend  the  Colyva  to  the  Church,  on  the  day  of  the 
Death  of  their  Father  and  Mother :  and  it  is  only  then  that  the  Cere- 
mony palTes  without  grief. 

EVE  RY  Sunday  in  the  firft  Year  after  the  Perfon's  Death,  and  fome- 
times in  the  fecond  too,  they  give  a  great  Cake,  with  Wine,  Meat,  and 
Fifh  to  fbme  poor  Man :  on  Chrifimas-Dny  they  do  the  fame,  fb  that  you  fee 
Quarters  of  Mutton,  Woodcocks,  and  Bottles  of  Wine,  continually 
palling  along  the  ftreets.  The  Papas  diftribute  what  part  of  it  they  think 
fit  among  the  Poor,  and  make  merry  with  the  reft  :  for  all  thefe  Offer- 
ings are  carry'd  from  Church  to  their  Houfes.     Thus  thefe  Gentlemen 

have 


The  Trefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church.  i 03 

have  more  than  they  well  know  how  to  confume  •  and  befuks  thele  Per-  Letter  III. 
quifites  of  the  Church,  they  are  loaded  with  other  Prefents.     The  Heirs,  s-'~v~"v-' 
during  the  firfl  Year,  give  to  the  Poor  night  and  morning  the  Portion  of 
Meat,  Bread,  Wine  and  Fruit,  that  the  Defuncl:  would  have  eaten  had  he 
lived. 

W  E  were  prefeiit  at  a  very  different  Scene,  and  one  very  barbarous, 
in  the  fame  Ifland,  which  happen'd  upon  occafion  of  one  of  thofe '  Corpfes, '  Vr°u«>]acas. 
which  they  fancy  come  to  life  again  after  their  Interment.  The  Man  b?«w'a«w,  $ 
whole  Story  we  are  going  to  relate,  was  a  Peafant  of  Mycone,  natu-  b^Wa^,  <* 
rally  ill-natur'd  and  quarrelfome ;  this  is  a  Circumftance  to  be  taken  ^o/J^ad' 
notice  of  in  fuch  cafes :  he  was  murder'd  in  the  fields,  no  body  knew  Bedy  and  * 

■  Demon. 

how,  nor  by  whom.     Two  days  after  his  being  bury'd  in  a  Chappel  in  the  some  think 
Town,  it  was  nois'd  about  that  he  was  feen  to  walk  in  the  night  with  great  'J^f^^'l 
hafte,  that  he  tumbled  about  Peoples  Goods,  put  out  their  Lamps,  griped  ^fl-  Je"y'd 
them  behind,  and  a  thoufand  other  monky  Tricks.     At  firfl  the  Story  was  "«'•  z?im  & 
receiv'd  with  Laughter ;  but  the  thing  was  look'd  upon  to  be  ferious,  n*Jj™%nkZg 
when  the  better  fort  of  People  began  to  complain  of  it :  the  Papas  them-  fj^u^'l'^ 
felves  gave  credit  to  the  Fact,  and  no  doubt  had  their  reafbns  for  fb  ^flom  <>f old 
doing ;  MaiTes  mud  be  faid,  to  be  fure  :  but  for  all  this,  the  Peafant  AdKxllknl 
drove  his  old  trade,  and  heeded  nothing  they  could  do.     After  divers fies  a  Dtuh° 
Meetings  of  the  chief  People  of  the  City,4  of  Priefts  and  Monks,  it  was 
gravely  concluded,  that  'twas  necefTary,  in  confequence  of  fbme  mufly 
Ceremonial,  to  wait  till  nine  days  after  the  Interment  fhould  be  expired. 

O  N  the  tenth  day  they  faid  one  Mafs  in  the  Chappel  where  the  Body 
was  laid,  in  order  to  drive  out  the  Demon  which  they  imagin'd  was  got 
into  it.  After  Mafs,  they  took  up  the  Body,  and  got  every  thing  ready 
for  pulling  out  its  Heart.  The  Butcher  of  the  Town,  an  old  clumfy 
Fellow,  firft  opens  the  Belly  inflead  of  the  Bread :  he  groped  a  long 
while  among  the  Entrails,  but  could  not  find  what  he  look'd  for  ;  at  lafl 
fomebody  told  htm  he  mould  cut  up  the  Diaphragm.  Tne  Heart  was 
pulfd  out,  to  the  admiration  of  all  the  Spectators.  In  the  mean  time,  the 
Corple  flunk  fo  abominably,  that  they  were  obliged  to  burn  Frankincenfe  • 
but  the  Smoke  mixing  with  the  Exhalations  from  the  Carcafs,  increas'd 
the  Stink,  and  began  to  muddle  the  poor  Peoples  Pericranies.  Their 
Imagination,  ftruck  with  the  Spectacle  before  them,  grew  full  of  Vifions. 

*  It 


1 04  A  Vo yage  into  the  Levant. 

'  Ic  came  into  their  noddles,  that  a  thick  Smoke  arole  out  of  the  Body ; 
we  durft  not  lay  'twas  the  Smoke  of  the  Incenfe.  They  were  incelTant- 
ly  bawling  out  VroucoUcas,  in  the  Chappel  and  Place  before  it:  this  is  the 
name  they  give  to  thele  pretended  Redivivi.  The  Noile  bellow'd  through 
the  ftreets,  and  it  feem'd  to  be  a  Name  invented  on  purpofe  to  rend  the 
Roof  of  the  Chappel.  Several  there  prefent  averr'd,  that  the  Wretch's 
Blood  was  extremely  red  :  the  Butcher  iwore  the  Body  was  flill  warm; 
whence  they  concluded,  that  the  .Deceas'd  was  a  very  ill  Man  for  not 
being  thorowly  dead,  or  in  plain  terms  for  fuffering  himfelf  to  be  re-ani- 
mated .by  Old  Nick ;  which  is  the  Notion  they  have  of  a  VroucoUcaSi 
They  then  roar'd  out  that  Name  in  a  ftupendious  manner.  Juft  at  this 
time  came  in  a  Flock  of  People,  loudly  proteftiug  they  plainly  per- 
ceiv'd  the  Body  was  not  grown  ftifT^  when  it  was  carry'd  from  the  Fields 
to  Church  to  be  bury'd,  and  that  conlequently  it  was  a  true  Vrousolacas; 
which  word  was  ft  ill  the  Burden  of  the  Song. 

I  DON'T  doubt  they  would  have  fworn  it  did  not  ftink,  had  not 
we  been  there;  fo  mazed  were  the  poor  People  with  this  Difafter,  and 
fb  infatuated  with  their  Notion  of  the  Dead's  being  re-animated.  As 
for  us  who  were  got  as  clofe  to  the  Corpfe  as  we  could,  that  we  might  be 
jmore  exadt  in  our  Obfervations,  we  were  almoft  poifbn'd  with  the  into- 
lerable Stink  that  ifTu'd  from  it.  When  they  ask'd  us  what  we  thought 
of  this  Body,  we  told  them  we  believ'd  it  to  be  very  thorowly  dead : 
but  as  we  were  willing  to  cure,  or  at  leaft  not  to  exafperate  their  preju- 
diced Imaginations,  we  reprefented  to  them,  that  it  was  no  wonder  the 
Butcher  ihould  feel  a  little  Warmth  when  he  groped  among  Entrails  that 
were  then  rotting  ;  that  it  was  no  extraordinary  thing  for  it  to  emit 
Fumes,  fince  Dung  turn'd  up  will  do  the  lame ;  that  as  for  the  pretended 
Rednefs  of  the  Blood,  it  ftill  appear'd  by  the  Butcher's  Hands  to  be  no- 
thing but  a  very  {linking  nafty  Smear. 

AFTER  «dl  our  Reafons,  they  were  of  opinion  it  would  be  their 
wifeft  courfe  to  burn  the  dead  Man's  Heart  on  the  Sea-more :  but  this 
Execution  did  not  make  him  a  bit  more  tradable ;  he  went  on  with  his 
racket  more  furioufly  than  ever  :  he  was  accus'd  of  beating  Folks  in  the 
night,  breaking  down  Doors,  and  even  Roofs  of  Houfes ;  clattering  Win- 
dows; tearing  Clothes;  emptying  Bottles  and  Vefiels.    Twas  the  moft 

thirfty 


The  Prefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church.  105 

thirfty  Devil  !  I  believe  he  did  not  fpare  any  body  but  the  Conful  in  Letter  III. 
whole  Houfe  we  lodg'd.  Nothing  could  be  more  miferable  than  the  Con-  {^^r^-i 
dition  of  this  Ifland ;  all  the  Inhabitants  feem'd  frighted  out  of  their 
fenfes  :  the  wifeft  among  them  were  ftricken  like  the  reft :  'twas  an  Epi- 
demical Difeafe  of  the  Brain,  as  dangerous  and  infectious  as  the  Madnei; 
of  Dogs.  Whole  Families  quitted  their  Houfes,  and  brought  their  Tent- 
Beds  from  the  fartheft  parts  of  the  Town  into  the  publick  Place,  there  to 
fpend  the  night.  They  were  every  inftant  complaining  of  fome  new  In- 
iuit ;  nothing  was  to  be  heard  but  Sighs  and  Groans  at  the  approach  of 
Night :  the  better  fort  of  People  retired  into  the  Country. 

WHEN  the  PrepofTeffion  was  fo  general,  we  thought  it  our  belt  way 
to  hold  our  tongues.  Had  we  oppos'd  it,  we  had  not  only  been  ac- 
counted ridiculous  Blockheads,  but  Atheifts  and  Infidels.  How  was  it 
poflible  to  ftand  againft  the  Madnefs  of  a  whole  People  ?  Thofe  that 
believ'd  we  doubted  the  Truth  of  the  Fact,  came  and  upbraided  us  with 
our  Incredulity,  and  ftrove  to  prove  that  there  were  fuch  things  as  Frou- 
cvlacajfes,  by  Citations  out  of  the  ■  Buckler  of  Faith,  written  by  F.  Ri-  '  T*'?^  r»s 
cbard  a  Jefuit  Miflionary.  He  was  a  Latin,  fay  they,  and  confequently  >^sm- 
you  ought  to  give  him  credit.  We  fhould  have  got  nothing  by  denying 
the  Juftnefs  of  the  Confequence :  it  was  as  good  as  a  Comedy  to  us  every 
Morning,  to  hear  the  new  Follies  committed  by  this  Night-Bird ;  they 
charg'd  him  with  being  guilty  of  the  moft  abominable  Sins. 

SOME  Citizens,  that  were  moft  zealous  for  the  Good  of  the  Publick, 
fancy'd  they  had  been  deficient  in  the  moft  material  part  of  the  Cere- 
mony. They  were  of  opinion,  that  they  had  been  wrong  in  faying  Mafs 
before  they  had  pull'd  out  the  Wretch's  Heart :  had  we  taken  this  Precau- 
tion, quo'  they,  we  had  bit  the  Devil,  as  lure  as  a  Gun ;  he'd  ha'  been 
hang'd  before  he'd  ever  ha'  come  there  again  :  whereas  faying  Mafs  firft, 
the  cunning  Dog  fled  for  it  a  while,  and  came  back  again  when  the  Dan- 
ger was  over. 

NOTWITHSTANDING  thefe  wife Refledions,  they  remain'd  in 
as  much  perplexity  as  they  were  the  firft  day  :  they  meet  night  and  morn- 
ing, they  debate,  they  make  Proceflions  three  days  and  three  nights; 
they  oblige  the  Papas  to  faft  ;  you  might  fee  them  running  from  Houfe  to 
Houfe,  Holy-Water-Brufh  in  hand,  fprinkling  it  all  about,  and  wafhing 
Vol.  L  P  the 


io<5  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

the  doors  with  it  j  nay,  they  pour'd  it  into  the  mouth  of  the  poor  Vrou- 
coUcas. 
imramt.  WE  fo  often  repeated  it  to  the  Magiftrates  of  the  Town,  that  in 
Cbrifiendom  we  fhould  keep  the  llrictefl  watch  a-nights  upon  fuch  an  occa- 
fion,  to  obferve  what  was  done ;  that  at  lafl  they  caught  a  few  Vagabonds, 
who  undoubtedly  had  a  hand  in  thefe  Diforders :  but  either  they  were  not 
the  chief  Ringleaders,  or  elfe  they  were  releas'd  too  loon.  For  two  days 
afterwards,  to  make  themfelves  amends  for  the  Lent  they  had  kept  in 
Prilbn,  they  fell  foul  again  upon  the  Wine-Tubs  of  thofe  who  were  fuch 
fools  as  to  leave  their  Houfes  empty  in  the  night  :  fo  that  the  People 
were  forc'd  to  betake  themfelves  again  to  their  Prayers. 

ON  E  day,  as  they  were  hard  at  this  work,  after  having  thick  I  know 
not  how  many  naked  Swords  over  the  Grave  of  this  Corpfe,  which  they 
took  up  three  or  four  tirnes  a  day,  for  any  Man's  Whim ;  an  Jlbaneze  that 
happen'd  to  be  at  Mycone,  took  upon  him  to  lay  with  a  Voice  of  Autho- 
rity, that  it  was  to  the  lait  degree  ridiculous  to  make  ufe  of  the  Swords 
of  Chriflians  in  a  cafe  like  this.  Can  you  not  conceive,  blind  as  ye 
are,  lays  he,  that  the  Handle  of  thele  Swords  being  made  like  a  Crols, 
hinders  the  Devil  from  coming  out  of  the  Body  ?  Why  do  you  not  ra- 
ther take  the  Turkijb  Sabres  ?  The  Advice  of  this  Learned  Man  had  no 
effect :  the  VroucoUcas  was  incorrigible,  and  all  the  Inhabitants  were  in  a 
flrange  Confirmation ;  they  knew  not  now  what  Saint  to  call  upon, 
when  of  a  Hidden  with  one  Voice,  as  if  they  had  given  each  other  the 
hint,  they  fell  to  bawling  out  all  through  the  City,  that  it  was  into- 
lerable to  wait  any  longer  ;  that  the  only  way  left,  was  to  burn  the 
VroucoUcas  intire  ;  that  after  fo  doing,  let  the  Devil  lurk  in  it  if  he 
could  ;  that  'twas  better  to  have  recourfe  to  this  Extremity,  than  to  have 
the  Ifland  totally  deferted  :  And  indeed  whole  Families  began  to  pack  up, 
in  order  to  retire  to  Syra  or  Tinos.  The  Magiftrates  therefore  order'd  the 
VroucoUcas  to  be  carry'd  to  the  Point  of  the  Ifland  St.  George,  where  they 
prepared  a  great  Pile  with  Pitch  and  Tar,  for  fear  the  Wood,  as  dry  as 
it  was,  mould  not  burn  fall  enough  of  it  lelf.  What  they  had  before  left 
of  this  miferable  Carcafs  was  thrown  into  this  lire,  and  confumed  prcfent- 
ly  :  'twas  on  the  full  of  January  1701.  We  law  the  Flame  as  we  re- 
tuin'd  from  Delus  1  it  might  jultly  be  call'd  a  Bonfire  of  Joy,  fince  after 

this 


The  Prefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church.  107 

this  no  more  Complaints  were  heard  againft  the  Vroucolacas  ;  they  faid  Letter  III. 
that  the  Devil  had  now  met  with  his  match,  and  fome  Ballads  were  made  ^^~^^^ 
to  turn  him  into  Ridicule. 

ALL  over  the  Archipelago  they  are  perfuaded,  that  only  the  Greeks  of 
the  Grecian  Rite  have  their  CarcaiTes  re-animated  by  the  Devil :  the  In- 
habitants of  the  Ifland  of  Santorini  are  terribly  afraid  of  thefe  Bulbeg-  Sant-Erini. 
gars.     Thole  of  Mycone,  after  their  Vifions  were  clearly  diipers'd,  began 
to  be  equally  apprehenfive  of  the  Profecutions  of  the  Turks  and  thofe  of 
the  Bifhop  of  Tinos.     Not  one  Papas  would  be  at  St.  George  when  the 
Body  was  burnt,  for  fear  the  Biihop  mould  exact  a  Sum  of  Mony  of 
them,  for  taking  up  and  burning  a  Corpfe  without  permiilion  from  him. 
:   As  for  the  Turks,  it  is  certain  that  at  their  next  Vifit  they  made  the  Com- 
munity of  My  cone  pay  dear  for  their  Cruelty  to  this  poor  Rogue,  who 
became  in  every  refpecl'  the  Abomination  and  Horror  of  his  Country- 
men.    After  fuch  an  Inftance  of  Folly,  can  we  refufe  to  own  that  the 
prefent  Greeks  are  no  great  Grecians ;  and  that  there  is  nothing  but  Igno- 
rance and  Superftition  among  them  ? 

WHATEVER  their  Genius  may  be,  they  want  Inftru&ion,  and 
know  nothing  but  by  Tradition,  which  among  them  is  not  always  infalli- 
ble ;  fb  that  it  is  no  wonder  they  mould  {till  continue  in  their  anticnt 
Herefy  concerning  the  Holy  Ghoft,  which,  according  to  moll  of  their 
Doctors,  does  not  proceed  from  the  Son :  But  which  of  them  troubles 
hirnfelf  with  Theological  Diiputes,  except  a  few  Monks  of  Monte  Santo  ? 
Moll  of  the  Papas  whole  Opinions  we  ask'd  upon  that  head,  did  not  lb 
much  as  know  the  State  of  the  Queflion.  They  are  much  better  in- 
form'd  as  to  the  Eucharift,  and  reply'd  boldly,  and  as  it  were  in  pafllon, 
thinking  we  doubted  their  Faith,  He  is  prefent  corporally,  when  we  ask'd  5«p«7«wV., 
them  in  what  manner  they  believ'd  Chrift  to  be  in  the  Sacred  Hofl. 

A  S  to  Purgatory,  they  know  not  what  to  fay  to  it ;  molt  of  them 
imagine  that  no  body  mall  be  judg'd  till  the  end  of  the  World  :  and  tho 
they  do  not  determine  the  Place  where  the  Souls  of  the  Dead  are  kept 
till  the  Day  of  the  Refurrection,  they  however  pray  for  the  Departed, 
in  hopes  that  the  Mercy  of  God  may  be  moved  thereby  :  nay,  there  are 
lome  of  them  that  believe  the  Pains  of  Hell  not  to  be  eternal ;  but  as 

P  2  they 


io8 


Iktvayiu. 


B/o/  S.yuv' 
Venet.  1621. 
©Hjat/£?f,  Pa- 
mafceni  Thcf- 
falonicenfis. 
Venet.  1618. 
'O  Nee*  0ir- 

Venet.  1621. 


A  Voyage  /»/o  the  Levant. 

they  are  very  indifferent  Geographers,  they  are  as  much  puzzled  where 
to  place  Hell,  as  where  to  place  Purgatory. 

OUR  Miflionaries  find  it  very  difficult  to  recall  the  Greeks  to  their 
true  Belief,  efpecially  in  Towns  remote  from  the  Sea-Coaft,  where 
the  King's  Charities  cannot  eafily  reach.  Their  Devotion  to  Saints, 
and  particularly  to  the  Holy  Virgin,  wants  very  little  of  Idolatry : 
thev  carefully  burn  a  Lamp  before  her  Image  every  Saturday ;  they  are 
continually  calling  upon  her,  and  returning  her  thanks  for  the  good  Suc- 
cefs  of  their  Affairs :  their  Promife  is  inviolable,  when  they  give  it 
with  either  a  Kifs  or  a  Touch  of  her  Image ;  but  then  they  fbmetimes 
grumble  at  her,  and  expoftulate  with  her  in  their  Misfortunes :  this  Breach 
is  prefently  made  whole  again,  they  return  to  killing  her,  they  call  her, 
The  JH-Holy,  and  at  their  Deaths  leave  her  cither  a  Vineyard  or  a  Field. 
Moll  of  their  Chappels  are  dedicated  to  her ;  the  Papas  lofe  nothing  by 
this  ;  they  are,  as  it  were  by  Birth,  Heirs  of  all  the  Goods  belonging 
to  the  Virgin* 

THO  the  Greek  Chappels  are  not  very  neat,  they  however  never 
fail  to  perform  the  Office  in  them  regularly  every  Sunday  and  Holiday  : 
this  Office  is  very  long,  and  holds  above  five  or  fix  hours.  After  the 
ufual  Prayers,  they  read  fome  Paflages  of  the  Holy  Scripture,  arid  even 
the  Lives  of  the  Saints  in  vulgar  Greek  ;  we  were  affured  that  there  are 
many  apocryphal  Fa&s  in  thole  Hiftories  :  all  this  while  they  lean  on  a 
fort  of '  Crutches,  which  all  their  Churches  are  very  well  furniiTi'd  with ; 
it  would  be  impoffible  for  a  Man  to  keep  fo  long  upon  his  legs,  with- 
out this  help.  The  Office  begins  very  early  in  the  Morning,  according 
to  the  Cuftom  of  the  Primitive  Chriflians  •  and  befides,  the  Greeks  may 
pray  more  free  from  Interruption,  while  the  Turks  are  afleep :  they  come 
therefore  to  Church  two  hours  after  midnight,  and  carry  Victuals  and 
Drink  with  them. 

THEIR  Country -Feftivals  are  great  Days  among  them ;  the  Eve  of 
thofe  Days  is  fpent  in  Dancing,  Singing,  and  Feafting :  Vollies  of  Muf 
ket-fhot  make  a  great  noife  all  over  the  Iflands  of  the  JrchipeUgo  ;  he 
that  makes  the  greateft  bouncing,  is  reckon'd  the  braved  Man.  The 
Day  of  the  Feflival  is  fet  apart  for  the  fame  Diverfions,  provided  they 

pay 


The  Trefent  State  of  the  Greek  Church.  1 09 

pay  fbmething  to  the  Turkifh   Officer   for    liberty    of  Merry-making :  Letter  III. 
they  themfelves  will  join  with  them,  but  they  do  it  efpecially  in  the  v-/"^/"^~' 
night-time,  for  fear  of  being  cenfured.     The  handfomeft  Women  never 
fail  to  be  there ;  and  nothing  is  fo  little  thought  of,  as  the  Saint  they  are 
celebrating:  inftead  of  invoking  him,  they  eat  '  Fritters  fry'd  in  Oil ; '  TV"*^'*. 
fometimes,  inftead  of  a  Bean,  they  mix  with  them  a '  Parat,  and  he  whofe  \f  fmaU 

'  L        -  Silver  Com. 

mare  it  falls  to,  is  King  of  the  Feaft.     We  may  fwear  they  don't  forget 
drinking  and  joking :  their  way  of  dancing  is  very  fingular,  and  has  no 
variety  :  the  Dancers  generally  hold  by  one  another's  Handkerchiefs ;  the 
Man  cuts  a  thoufand  Capers,  while  the  Woman  hardly  fo  much  as  ftirs. 
The  higheft  of  thefe  Feftivals  are  thofe  of  St.  Michael,  St.  Andrew,  St.  Ni-  JJ&Si. 
cholas,  St.  George,  and  the  Forty  Martyrs.     Formerly  they  ufed  to  recite 
the  Panegyrick  of  the  Saint  whofe  Memory  they  honour'd,  but  that 
Practice  is  now  difcontinu'd  in  the  Iflands  of  the  Archipelago.     He  that 
is  at  the  charge  of  the  Feaft,  only  gives  a  few  poor  People  fbmething 
to  eat ;  and  this  is  an  Imitation  of  the '  Banquets  of  the  Primitive  Chrif- '  aj«W,  Ad- 
rians, which  *  St.  Peter,  5  St.  Paul,   and "  St.  Jude,  found  great  fault  with,  that  were  kept 
What  would  thole  Holy  Apoftles  lay  to  lome   Rogueries  now  commit-  %£  //^ 


or  pro- 


tcd  by  the  Curates?     On  Twelfth-day,  for  inftance,  and  at  Eafier,  upon  ™otim °fchtl- 
pretence  of  giving  little  '  Wax-Candles  to  the  Children  gratis,  they  dearly  *  2  Ep;ft  iu 
fell  thole  which  they  diftribute  among  the  grown  People  ;    like  lbme  *3- 
Quacks,  who   ask  nothing  for  the  Vifits  they  pay  to    the  Sick,    but  Corinth,  dud. 
who  make  themfelves  hearty  amends  in  their  Demands  for  their  Phy-  ,  '  ■!' 

J  J     *  Epift.ver.12. 

fick.  In  mod  Villages,  on  the  firft  Sunday  in  Lent,  every  Family  car- '  Uoxwmuov. 
ries  a s  four-corner'd  Loaf,  each  Corner,  as  alio  the  Middle  of  the  Loaf, 5  ^fus-?^- 
mark'd  with  the  Name  of  Jefus  Chrift  :  the  Papas  blefTes  it,  and  diftri- 
butes  the  Corners  to  four  Perfons  of  the  Family,  whether  Mafters  or 
Servants ;  the  Middle  is  given  to  fome  fifth  Perfon,  that  happens  to  be 
there  by  chance:  and  thefe  five  give  to  the  Curate  twelve  or  fifteen  Pence 
in  all,  upon  his  alluring  them  that  this  Bread  has  more  Virtue  in  it  than 
the  common  Holy  Bread.  Laftly,  the  Curate  receives  the  moft  zealous 
of  his  Parifhioners  at  the  Church-Door,  with  a  Glafs  of  Brandy  in  his 
hand  ;  being  very  certain,  that  this  Glafs  will  procure  him  a  Jug  of 
Wine,  and  a  Hollow  Bit.    Many  fuch  Abufes  as  thefe  were  committed  - 

among 


iio  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

among  us,  before  the  Eftabliftiment  of  Seminaries :  we  are  to  look  upon 
thofe  Houfes  as  fo  many  Nurferies  of  True  Shepherds  and  Holy  Priefts  j 
but  we  dare  not  hope,  that  fo  wholelbme  a  Remedy  will  yet  this  long 
while  be  ufed  in  the  Greek  Church.  The  Convents  of  Monte  Santo,  tho 
regular  in  appearance,  breed  up  the  molt  dangerous  Trickfters,  inftead 
of  Apoftolical  Teachers,  that  might  reftore  their  Ecclefiaftical  Difcipline. 
I  have  the  honour  to  be  with  the  profoundeft  Refpecl:,  ejre. 


LET- 


(Ill) 


LETTER    IV. 

To  Monfeigneur  the  Count  de  Pontchartrain,- 
Secretary  of  State,  &c. 


My  Lord, 

T  is  fo  dangerous  going  from  Candia  to  the  Ifles  of  the  Arcbi-  r>efiriptioyf 

»  &        &  the  lflands  of 

pelago,  on  board  the  Shipping  of  the  Country,  that  we  durfl  Argemiere,Mi- 
not  attempt  it :  the  PafTage  is  a  hundred  miles,  and  thefe  Vef-  wserpho? 
fels  or '  Boats,  not  above  fifteen  foot  long,   are  presently  over- '  Kaimn, 
with  a  fudden  Gufl  of  the  North  Wind.     Befides,  there's  no  fheltring-   ai<l"e° 
place  on  the  way,  which  is  a  grievous  misfortune  at  Sea,  when  a  Temped 
rhreatens.     We  therefore  refblv'd  to  wait  for  a  French  Bark :  by  good 
.  luck  there  was  at  Canea  one  of  thofe  which  your  Lordfhip  has  forbid  pic- 
'  Peering  from  Ifland  to  Ifland  for  Plunder.     I  promis'd  the  Matter  not  to 
nform   againft  him,  and  fo  he  convey'd  us  to  Argentiere,  the  firft  of 
Auguft. 

THIS  Ifland,  by  the  Greeks-  calPd  Chimoli,  took  the  name  of  Areen-  Kr\inA02- 
>iere  at  the  time  when  the  Silver  Mines  were  firft  difcover'd  there  :  there  Geog.  lib.  w, 
are  Hill  to  be  feen  the  Work-houfes  and  Furnaces  where  they  ufed  to  pre-  vulgar  Greek 
pare  this  Metal ;  but  at  prefent  they  dare  not  meddle  with  this  fort  of  S'.mo'u£  XT 

r  J  Plm.  Hilt.  Nar. 

Work  without  leave  of  the  Turks,  who  under  pretext  that  the  Inhabi-  lib-  4.  caP.i2. 

_  Argentina 

rants  of  the  Ifland  reap'd  great  Advantages  therefrom,  would  be  fure  to  load  iaW. 
em  with  Imports.    The  Inhabitants  are  of  opinion,  that  the  principal  LA'eennc'e* 
vlines  are  towards  the  Poloni  fide,  a  fmall  Port  of  the  Ifland  Milo.     Thefe 
[flands  are  net  above  a  mile  afunder  from  Cape  to  Cape,  as  the  Geo- 
graphers phrafe  it }  but  the  PafTage  is  twice  as  much.     The  Port  ofArgerr- 

tiere 


H2  u#Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

tiere  is  not  large,  nor  has  it  depth  enough  for  Ships  of  Burden  ;  which 
'  S'10C«         therefore  flop  at  the  Road  of  the  '  South-Eaft,  under  covert  of  the  Ifle 

of  Polino,  calPd  Burnt-Ifland  by  the  Franks. 
cimoius  quae  V  LI  NT  writes,  that  Cimolus  was  antiently  call'd  the  Ifland  of  Vipers : 
PK«!^)id.  the  Breed  of  'em  muff  be  now  extinct,  for  the  People  afTur'd  us  they 
never  law  any  of  thofe  venomous  Creatures.  Pinetus,  Plinfs  Tranflator, 
and  fome  other  modern  Geographers,  thought  this  was  the  Ifle  of  Sican- 
dro :  for  my  particular,  I  take  Siccwd.ro  to  be  an  imaginary  Ifland  ;  Fm 
Jure  we  could  get  no  tidings  of  it  in  the  Archipelago. 

THERE'S  but  a  fingle  Village  in  Argentiere,  and  that  a  very  poor 
one :  the  Ifland,  which  is  parch'd  up  and  full  of  barren  Mountains,  is 
but  eighteen  miles  about.  They  low  no  Barley  nor  Cotton  but  round 
this  Village  :  they  drink  Wine  of  Milo  and  Rain-water,  for  they  have  no 
Fountain  in  the  whole  Country,  only  a  few  forry  Wells.  The  Vines 
yield  no  Grapes  but  for  eating :  all  the  Olive-Trees  were  cut  down  by 
the  Venetians,  when  they  had  war  with  the  Turks.  In  fine,  this  Ifland 
is  become  wretchedly  poor  ever  fince  the  King  put  down  the  Trench 
Corfairs  in  the  Levant.  Argentiere  ufed  to  be  the  place  of  their  Rende- 
vouz,  where  they  fpent  in  horrible  Debaucheries  the  Booty  they  took 
from  the  Turks ;  to  the  great  advantage  of  the  Ladies,  who  are  none  of 
the  coyeft  nor  uglieft :  this  is  the  moil  dangerous  Rock  to  fplit  upon,  in 
all  the  Archipelago ;  but  he  mufl  be  a  mere  Ignoramus  that  can't  avoid  it. 

THE  whole  Trade  of  the  Ifland  confifts  of  this  fort  of  rough  Gal- 
lantry, fuitable  enough  to  Sailors  who  have  none  of  the  nicefl:  Stomachs : 
the  Women  have  no  other  Employment  but  making  Love  and  Cotton 
.Stockings.  Thefe  Stockings  are  none  of  the  neateft,  tho  they  fapply 
the  neighbouring  Ifles  with  'em.  The  Men  ufe  the  Sea,  and  in  time  grow 
to  be  very  good  Pilots.  As  for  Religion,  they  are  not  over-burden'd 
with  it  here,  any  more  than  in  the  other  Ifles  of  the  Archipelago  ;  where 
they  are  thorowly  ignorant  and  illiterate,  confequently  very  ibrry  Chrit 
tians,  I  may  fay,  downright  Villains.  The  People  of  Argentiere  are  almoft 
all  of  the  Greek  Communion,  and  are  flill  in  poiTeffion  of  a  fcore  of 
fmall  Bells  in  their  Chappels  \  a  notable  Privilege,  confidering  the  Go- 
vernment they  live  under  !  The  Latins  here  are  few  in  number,  and 
there's  ne'er  a  Barrel  the  better  Herring  between  them  and  the  Greeks. 

*  The 


T>efcription  of  the  Ifland  of  Argentiere.  113 

The  Latin  Church  is  fupply'd  by  a  Vicar  of  the  Bifhop  of  Mtlo,  to  which  Letter  IV. 
Argentiere  is  a  fort  of  Suburb.     Juftice  is  adminifter'd  here  by  a  Judge  ^"v'^» 
Itinerant,  who  is  the  only  Muffulman  of  the  whole  Ifland  :  he  is  mod 
commonly  without  either  Man  or  Maid-Servant,  and  dares  not  talk  big, 
for  fear  the  Inhabitants  ihould  fend  him  packing  on  board  fome  Corfair 

of  Malta. 

ARGENTIERE  is  never  mention'd  in  antient  Hiflory  :  it  is  an 
liland  that  always  follow'd  the  Fate  of  Milo.  In  the  Overthrow  of  the 
Greek  Empire  by  the  Latins.  Marco  Sanudo  a  Venetian  Nobleman  annex'd  Hiitory  of  the 

-.  1  ■  1     r  1  ,n        1         i-     •    •  Dukes  of  the 

it  to  the  Dutchy  of  Naxia,  together  with  iome  other  Iilands  adjoining ;  Arching*. 
it  was  afterwards  involv'd   in  the  Conqueft  of  the  Archipelago  by  Bar- 
barojfd. 

AS  poor  a  place  as  Argentiere  is,  it  pays  the  Turks  1000  Crowns  for 
the '  Capitation  and  *  Land-Tax,  which  confifts  in  the  fifth  part  of  all  ■  K=$«War. 
Commodities :  befides  thefe  Duties,  the  Inhabitants  prefent  the  Collectors  ,  ™^6e   . 
with  j  or  400  Crowns.  &n&-mi,  De- 

THERE  are  but  two  things  in  this  Ifland  which  concern  Natural 
Hiitory ;  the  Terra  Cimolia,  and  the  Vegetables  :  as  for  the  Silver  Mines, 
they  are  no  more  to  be  thought  of. 

The  J  Terra  Cimolia,  fo  highly  efteem'd  by  the  Antients,  is  a  white  •  'h  y»  Kif^. 
Chalk,  very  heavy,  without  any  tafle,  abounding  with  a  fmall  Grit  that  Ge^TiKc.* 
lets  one's  teeth  on  edge :  this  Chalk  is  eafily  crumbled,  but  it  does  not Crecx  Plura 

0  J  genera ;  ex  lis 

ferment,  nor  has  the  leaft  EfTervelcence  when  'tis  put  in  Water ;  it  only  cimoiix  duo 
melts  away,  and  turns  to  a  Glue :  its  Solution,  which  is  greyilh,  makes  penineinia,5 
no  alteration  in  the  Tindure  of  Turn-fole,  nor  is  it  in  the  leaft  affected  SSSSfa 
by  Oil  of  Tartar.     Spirit  of  Salt  ftrew'd  on  the  Terra  Cimolia  ferments  'neKnans.piiw. 
cold,  as  do  all  flony  Subftances  :  which  makes  me  believe,  that  this  fortM.35.  M/-.17. 
of  Chalk  is  the  fame  with  that  which  is  found  about  Paris,  only  the 
former  is  more  fat  and  loapy  ;  and  accordingly  it  is  ufed  in  warning  of 
Linen,  to  fave  the  Expence  of  Soap,  but  it  does  not  waih  near  fo  white. 
I  fancy  any  fort  of  Chalk  would  do  as  well ;  only  care  muft  be  taken  in 
this  of  Argentiere  to  feparate  the  Grit,  which  would  tear  the  Linen.     To 
conclude,  thefe  Iflanders  make  no  other  Lye  to  wain  with ;  and  this  has 
been  a  very  old  Cuftom  here,  fince  I  Pliny  declares  they  made  life  of  it  in  ♦  lblJ 
cleanfing  of  Stuffs. 

Vol.I.  O  AS 


ii4 


Cretofaque  ru- 
ra  Cinioli. 
W.atn.  lib.  7 


MHA02. 
Strab.  Ker. 
Geog.  lib.  10. 
Melos.  Plin. 
Hifi.  Nat. 
lib.  4.  cap.  12, 
Milo,  or  Le 
Milo. 

*  Ha;c  inful.i- 
rum  omnium 
rotundifiima. 
Plin.  ibid. 


'  'H  Utihoi 

t'vtwv.  Strab. 
ibid. 


I  Lib.  5. 


*  Thucyd.  1.  2, 

5  Lib.  5. 

*  Narrat,  jdL 

I  Thucyd.  1.  3 

*  Diod.  Sicul. 
Biblioth.  Hift. 
!ib.  12. 


^  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

A  S  for  the  Medicinal  Virtues  of  the  Terra  Cimolia,  the  Antients  em- 
ploy'd  it  in  difcufling  of  Tumours :  the  Moderns  would  do  better,  in  the 
room  of  it,  to  fubftitute  Potters  Earth  rather  than  Cutlers.  Ovid,  ipeak- 
ing  of  Cimolm,  very  truly  fays  it  was  a  very  clayey  Country  ;  it  is  almoft 
all  over  white  with  it :  we  found  none  inclining  to  red  ;  perhaps  the  other 
fort  of  Cimolia,  mention'd  by  Pliny,  lies  deeper. 

A  S  for  Vegetables,  they  were  all  burnt  up  when  we  arriv'd  at  Ar<ren~ 
tiers :  'tis  the  lame  in  the  other  Iflands,  towards  the  end  of  July  ;  the 
annual  Plants  are  all  gone;  there's  no  knowing  'em  but  by  their  Skele- 
tons, as  one  may  fay,  or  by  their  Seeds  ihed  on  the  ground,  and  which 
grow  up  after  the  firfl  Rains  of  the  Autumn. 

BEING  incumbred  with  our  Baggage,  and  repofing  no  great  Confi- 
dence in  the  People  of  the  Place,  we  went  over  to  the  Ifland  of  Milo  in 
lefs  than  half  an  hour,  on  the  fecond  of  Augutt,  in  the  ordinary  Ferry 
which  goes  and  comes  every  day  from  one  Ifland  to  the  other.  Strabo 
places  Milo  24  miles  off  Cape  Skilli  in  the  Morea,  and  almoft  the  fame 
diftance  from  Cape  Spada  in  Candia.  A  hundred  miles  between  theie  two 
Iflands,  is  the  general  Computation.  Milo  is  a  fine  Ifland,  almoft '  round, 
about  fixty  miles  in  compafs,  well  cultivated  ;  and  its  Haven,  which  is 
one  of  the  beft  and  largeft  of  the  Mediterranean,  ferves  as  a  Retreat  for 
all  Shipping  that  ufe  the  Levant :  for  it  is  fituated  at  the  Entrance  of  the 
Archipelago,  which  was  known  to  the  Antients  by  the  name  of  the 
Eaean  Sea. 

o 

THIS  Ifland,  tho  fmall,  was  very  "  confiderable  in  the  time  that 
Greece  flourilh'd.  Milo,  lays  Thucydides,  enjoy'd  a  perfect  Liberty  700 
Years  before  the  famous  War  of  Peloponneftts,  which  he  gives  io  exact  a 
Defcription  of :  a  War  wherein  not  only  Greece  was  concern'd,  but  all 
the  neighbouring  Iflands  and  principal  Towns  of  the  AJiatick  Coaft.  In 
this  hurly-burly,  the  4  Miliotes,  notwithstanding  ftrong  Court  was  made 
to  'em  by  the  Athenians,  refolv'd  to  ftick  to  a  Neutrality  :  peradventure 
becaufe  they  were  delcended  of  the  Lacedemonians,  according  to  '  Thucydi- 
des and "  Conon  ;  tho  Stephens  the  Geographer  makes  Milo  a  Colony  of 
Phemcians.  1  Nicias  the  Athenian  General  came  to  Milo  with  a  Fleet  of 
60  Sail,  and  2000  Soldiers  on  board,  who  landed,  and  laid  the  whole 
Country  wafte :  yet '  was  he  fain  to  raife  the  Siege  of  the  Town,  which, 
^  according 


i  >///,/ ,  >  '/J,/,/// .  rL  y/  Dv/U*  sf <?////  ruSaAjt  twin*  ZJlcuub .       *  '  l/  ^ 


£//////-  Zs/a/id 


Definition  of  the  IJIand  of  Milo.  1 1  5 

according  to  '  Syncellus,  is  as  antient  as  Minos  the  Son  of  Europa.     Some  Letter  IV. 
Years  afterwards  the  Athenians  made  another  Defcent  with  3000  Men,  !"£^f. 
commanded  by  Cleomedes  and  Tijias;  who  after  a  tedious  Conference  "l.Annai. 
with  the  Chiefs  of  the  Ifle,  block'dup  the  Town :  but  the  Miliotes  tuirfd      ucy  '  "5 
their  Works.     At  length  Philocrates  bringing  a  frefli  Reinforcement  from 
Athens,  they  furrendred  at  dilcretiou  ;  and  then  happen'd  that  mighty 
Maflacre,  fpoken  of  by  Strabo,  Diodorus  Siculus,  and  Thucydid.es.     The 
Athenians,  by  advice  of*  Alcibiades,  put  to  death  all  the  Inhabitants  of ' P'utaixh. in 
Milo,  except  the  Women  and  Children, +  which  were  carry'd  away  Slaves  4  xhucyd.ibid. 
into  Attica.    Five  hundred  Perlbns  of  the  lame  Country  were  brought 
over  to  fettle  a  Colony  in  the  Ifland  :  mean  while,  5  Lyfander  the  Lacede-  JSJjy"^ in 
monian  General  having  obliged  Athens  it  felf  in  its  turn  to  furrender  at 
diicretion,  the  remainder  of  the  Miliotes  were  reftor'd  into  the  Ifland,  and 
the  Colony  of  Athenians  fent  back  again. 

MILO  afterwards  underwent  the  fame  Fate  with  the  other  Illands  of 
the  Archipelago,  that  is  to  fay,  it  fell  under  the  Yoke  of  the  Romans,  and 
then  under  the  Greek  Emperors.     Marco  Sanado,  firft  Duke  of  the  Archi-  Sa«ut'  Kb.  r. 
pelago,  join'd  this  Ifland  to  the  Dutchy  of  Naxia  in  the  Reign  of  Henry    r  I207.P 
of  Banders,  Brother  to  the  Emperor  Baldwin.     It  was  difmember'd  from 
this  Dutchy  by  John  Sanudo,  the  fixth  Duke  of  the  Archipelago,  who  H,ftor>' of  the 
yielded  it  up  to  Prince  Marco  his  Brother,  who  gave  it  for  a  Dowry  with  Archipelago. 
his  Daughter  Florentia  to  Francis  Crifpo.     This  Crifpo,  who  was  delcended 
of  the   antient  Greek  Emperors,    found  means  to  re-unite  Milo  to  the 
Dutchy  of  Naxia,  by  procuring  Nicholas  Carcerio,  the  ninth  Duke  there- 
of, to  be  aflaffmated :  whereby  Crifpo  became  the  tenth  Sovereign  of  the 
Dutchy  of  the  Archipelago.     This  Ifland,  and  molt  of  the  others  of  this 
Dutchy,  were  redue'd  by  Barbaroffa  to  the  Obedience  of  Solyman  II. 

W  E  have  leen  in  our  days  a  Miliote,  whole  Name  was  Capji,  let  him- 
felf  up  for  King  of  Milo  :  he  wanted  neither  Courage  nor  Talents  for  go- 
verning •,  but  he  was  fo  indilcreet,  as  to  delcend  from  his  Throne,  and 
without  his  Guards  pay  a  Vifit  to  a  Turkish  Captain  of  a  Ship,  who  was 
come  to  make  him  lome  advantageous  Propofitions  from  the  Grand  Vifier, 
to  whom  this  new  Sovereign  had  given  ibme  trouble :  loon  as  Capji  was 
on  board,  they  hoifted  fail,  and  carry'd  the  Wretch  away  to  Confianiino- 
ple ;  where,  after  a  Reign  of  three  Years,  he  was  hang'd  at  the  door  of 

Q^  2  the 


1 1 6  ^f  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

■  n  Bagno.  t]ie  .  prifon  for  Slaves.  Not  Co  imprudent  were  the  antient  Inhabitants  of 
De  vh-timbiis  ^/^  mention'd  by  Plutarch ;  they  having  planted  a  Colony  at  Cryajfa,  a 
Town  of  Can  a,  caus'd  their  Wives  to  conceal  each  a  Dagger  in  her 
Boibm,  with  which  they  very  feafonably  murder'd  the  Inhabitants  of  the 
Town,  who  dcfign'd  to  have  done  as  much  by  them,  and  to  that  end 
had  invited  'em  to  a  Banquet. 

W  E  landed  at  a  place  calPd  Poloni,  on  account,  I  fuppofe  of  lome  an- 
tient Temple  of  Apollo  :  here  we  were  fain  to  tarry  till  Noon,  before  we 
could  get  Horfes ;  for  it  is  five  miles  from  Poloni  to  the  Town,  which  is 
call'd  after  the  name  of  the  lfland,  according  to  the  old  Cuftom  of  Greece 
De  slmP^Me-  noted  by  Galen.    After  travelling  more  than  half-way  amidft  Hills  and 
lib.  9.  §.  11.  barren  Fields,  you  come  into  a  very  pleafant  Plain,  which  extends  itfelf 
as  far  as  the  Town  of  Milo.     This  Town  contains  near  5000  Souls,  and 
is  prettily  built,  but  abominable  nafty ;  for  when  they  make  an  Erection 
of  a  Houfe,  they  begin  with  the  Hogfty,  beneath  an  Arch  even  with  the 
ground,  or  a  little  lower,  and  always  fronting  the  Street :  in  a  word,  it 
is  the  Jakes  of  the  whole  Houfe.     The  Ordure  that  gathers  there,  join'd 
to  the  Salt-marines  on  the  Sea-fide,    the  mineral   Exhalations  of  the 
lfland,  the  Scarcity  of  good  Water,  fb  infecl:  the  Air,  that  it  breeds  very 
dangerous  Diftempers.     The  Houfes  of  this  Town  are  far  beyond  thofe 
of  Ca.nd.ia.  ;  the  former  being  two  Stories  terrace-wife,  the  Mafbnry  well 
perform'd,  the  Material  an  uncommon  fort  of  Stone,  like  a  Pumice,  but 
hard,  blackifh,    light  of  weight,    not  fufceptible  of  ImpreiTions  of  the 
Air,  and  very  fit  for  fharpning  all  forts  of  Iron  Tackle.     'Tis  not  likely 
De  Lapidib.    Theophrafim  and  Pliny  meant  this  fort  of  Stone,  when  they  faid  the  beft 
Jib.36.cap.21.  Pumice-Stones  were  found  in  this  lfland;  for  the  Antients  ufed   it  to 
dorunUmpeN  foften  the  Skin,   and  make  it  look  fleek.     It  is    certain,  the  common 
cujus  textma    pumices  are  much  fitter  for  this  purpofe,  but  thofe  of  Milo  did  not  feem 

ad  pumicem  r      r 

accedit  ?  to  us  to  have  a  finer  Contexture  than  thofe  which  are  on  the  fhores  of  all 
the  Grecian  Iflands ;  they  come  all  out  of  the  fame  Quarry,  as  hereafter 
we  fliall  fee.  The  Terraces  at  Milo  are  made  juft  as  thofe  of  the  other 
Towns  of  the  Archipelago ;  that  is  to  fay,  a  Lay  of  Earth  well  beaten 
up,  which  fplitting,  lets  in  the  firft  Rain- Water  through  a  thoufand 
Chaps ;  but  it  becomes  ftronger  and  firmer,  as  it  imbibes  the  Water,  and 
its  Crevices  Clofe  up  very  leifurely. 

*  THE 


r&.x. 


2Ja4.J17 . 


Defcription  of  tte  Ifland  of  Milo.  1 1 7 

THE  French  Capuchins  are  well  lodg'd  in  this  Ifland,  at  the  Entrance  Letter  IV- 
into  the  Town  on  the  right  hand  coming  from  the  Port :  fome  years  ago  s-/^/  ^ 
their  Convent  was  demolifh'd  by  the  Turks,  under  pretence  that  they  con- 
ceal'd  the  Plunder  made  by  the  Rovers ;  the  Houfe  is  rebuilt,  and  the  new 
Church  is  very  pretty,  confidering  the  place :  the  King  contributed  i  ooo 
Crowns  towards  this  Building ;    the  French  Merchants,  the  Captains  of 
Ships,  and  the  very  Corfairs,  beftow'd  their  Benefa&ions  according  to 
their  refpe&ive  Abilities,  the  Capuchins  themfelves  being  every  where 
very  poor.     In  the  Levant  they  lay  out  what  they  can  fpare  towards 
the  maintenance  of  poor  Chriftian  Families,  nor  do  they  omit  any  oppor- 
tunity of  relieving  or  delivering  of  captive  Slaves.     One  of  the  two  Fa- 
thers that  are  in  the  Convent  of  Milo,  keeps  a  School  for  Greek,  the  other 
for  Italian  r  they  have  in  their  Garden  an  antique  Figure  without  a  Head,  . 
and  in  other  refpeclrs  much  maim'd  ;  'tis  thought  to  have  been  a  Statue  of 
Pandora,  what  is  left  of  it  is  very  curious.      I  rather  took  it  to  be  a 
Diana,  fuch  as  we  fee  her  reprefented  on  fome  Medals  of  Domitian,  Tra-  aptemis 
jan,  Marcus  Attrelius,  Commodus,  and  others.  to2>  Diana  • 

THE  Miliotes  are  good  Sailors ;  being  much  ufed  to  the  Archipelago,  p^f  mant~ 
they  ferve  as  Pilots  to  moft  Ships  trading  thither  from  abroad.  When 
the  French  Corfairs  were  mafters  of  the  Sea  in  the  Levant,  this  Ifland 
abounded  with  all  manner  of  Accommodations  :  they  ftill  have  in  their 
mouths  the  Atchievements  and  heroick  Actions  of  Meffieurs  Benevitte 
Temericourt,  Chevalier  d? Hoquincour,  Hugh  Cr livelier,  and  others  who 
ufed  to  bring  in  their  Prizes  thither,  as  the  principal  Fair  of  the  Archi- 
pelago :  Merchandize  ufed  to  {ell  cheap,  the  Burghers  retail'd  them  again  . 
with  good  advantage,  and  the  Ships  Crews  made  conlumption  of  the  Pro- 
duel:  of  the  Country. 

THE  Ladies  likevvife  made  no  ill  hand  of  it ;  they  are  as  arrant  Co- 
quettes as  at  Argentiere  •  they  all  make  ufe  of  the  Powder  of  a  Sea-Plant 
to  beautify  themfelves;  it  gives  a  Ruddinefs  to  their  Cheeks,  but  it  loon  Akyonium  c'j. 
goes  off;  and  fpoils  the  Complexion,  as  well  as  deftroys  the  upper  Skin. ,um  Impcr* 
The  Ladies  of  both  Iflands  follow  the  lame  Drefs  ;  it  is  a  very  diiadvan- 
tageous  one  to  the  Fair  Sex,  and  muft  needs  look  very  odd  in  the  eyes  of 
all  Foreigners  :  it  utterly  mif-mapes  them,  and  reprefents  the  prettiefl  of 


'em 


ii8  A  Voyage  Into  the  Levant. 

'em  with  monftrous  mill-poll  Legs,  fie  for  nothing  but  to  be  painted  on 
Skreens  or  Fans. 
cadi.  I N  Milo  there  are  none  but  Greeks,   except  the  '  Judge,  and  he's  a 

•  Hewhokvies  Turk.     The  2  Wayvod  is  ufually  a  Greek,  who  not  only  levies  the  Land- 
Tax,  but  alio  has  power  of  chaftizing  Offenders,  and  inflicting  the  Bafti- 
nade,  in  like  manner  as  the  Aga  of  the  Janizaries  in  the  Towns  of  Turk)- 
In  the  Year  1700,  the  Land-Tax  amounted  to  5000  Crowns,    and  the 
like  Sum  was  paid  to  Me&omorto,  the  Captain-Bafhaw,  for  the  Capitation. 
EmT&KK,      Every  year  they  chufe  three  Confuls  at  Milo ;  they  are  call'd  Epitropi,  and 
iritendant.    '  thole  who  go  out,  Primati  or  Vechiardi,  that  is,  antient  Confuls.     The 
Confuls  for  the  time  being  have  the  management  of  the  City-Rents,  ac- 
cruing from  the  Cuftoms,  the  Salt-pits  and  Mill-flones  :    the  whole  is 
farm'd  out  at  no  more  than  1000  Crowns  a  year.     The  Cuftoms  are  3  per 
Cent,  on  all  forts  of  Wares.     The  Hand-Mills  made  here  are  very  neat, 
and  the  Stone  excellent :  they  are  exported  to  Constantinople,  Egypt,  the 
Mi/a<*.  Morea,  Zjnt,   Ceph&lonia,    and   even  Ancone.     Mylos  in  Greek  fignifies  a 

Mill ;  'tis  faid  the  Ifland  borrow'd  its  Name  from  the  great  Trade  it  drove 
in  thefe  Mills,  but  'tis  much  more  likely,  that  it  has  preferv'd  its  antient 
Name  of  Melos,  (now  Milo)  which  Fefius  derives  from  a  Phenician  Cap- 
tain call'd  Melos. 
'  Kiho.  AS  for  Salt,  it  cannot  be  faid  to  be  fold  here  ;  for  the  ordinary  f  Mea- 

*22oOques.  fure,  which  weighs  +  66  Pounds  French,  is  to  be  had  for  feven  Pence. 
The  Salt-pits  are  two  miles  from  the  Town :  in  Winter  the  Sea-water 
fills  the  Cifterns  with  it,  and  in  the  great  Heats  the  Salt  chryftallizes 
therein. 

THE  Confuls  have  the  Nomination  of  all  the  Officers  to  collect  the 
Capitation  in  the  Town  :  each  Head  is  rated  at  five  Crowns  ;  they  then 
pay  over  this  Mony  to  the  Captain-Balhaw's  Order.  The  Turks  are  con- 
tinually griping  thefe  poor  Greeks :  for  example,  when  we  were  there, 
they  would  take  Sequins  at  no  more  than  two  Crowns,  whereas  they  are 
worth  feven  Livres  ten  Sols  ;  another  year  they  will  be  paid  in  fuch  Goods 
of  the  Country,  as  are  like  to  produce  moft  Gain,  fuch  as  Silk  and  fpun 
Cotton  :  more  than  that,  you  mufl  make  'em  large  Prelents,  if  you  would 
avoid  being  put  in  Irons  or  baftinado'd.  The  Turks  are  more  inlblent 
than  ever  in  the  Iflands,  fince  the  difappearing  of  the  French  Corfairs,  fo 

that 


Defer ipt ion  of  the  Ifland  of  Milo.  119 

that  the  Greeks  are  at  a  lofs  what  to  wife  :  the  Corfairs  kept  the  Turks  in  Letter  IV. 
awe,  and  eat  up  the  Profit  of  their  Captures  in  the  Country ;  but  then  •" 
they  were  fometimes  none  of  the  eafieft  Guefts  to  be  dealt  with. 

SUITS  in  Law  come  firft  before  the  Confuls  and  Primati  ;  from 
whom  an  Appeal  lies  to  the  Cadi,  if  the  Party  pieafes :  but  the  Confuls, 
who  afllft  at  the  Cadi's  giving  Judgment,  will  not  only  threaten  to  turn 
him  out  of  the  Ifland,  but  often  aclually  do  fo,  if  he  does  not  do  juftice. 
The  Grand  Cadi  of  Scio  has  the  right  of  fending  another  :  the  new  Cadi 
is  treated  for  three  days  by  the  Officers  of  the  Town,  who  afllgn  him  a 
Lodging,  he  paying  the  Rent.  He  has  i  o  per  Cent,  out  of  the  Effects  that 
are  litigated ;  fometimes  he  takes  Silver  of  one  fide  and  Gold  of  t'other : 
the  bigger  Sum  determines  his  Decree.  If,  as  it  fometimes  happens,  he's 
an  honeft  Man,  he  orders  immediate  Payment  in  Mony  or  Merchandize  • 
if  the  Debtor  has  no  EfTe&s,  he's  undone,  unlels  he  craves  time  to  make 
Satisfaction ;  if  he  denies  the  Debt,  his  Oath  is  taken,  and  he  exemp- 
ted from  farther  Profecution :  a  Papas  is  fent  for,  to  be  prelent  at  his 
fwearing  by  the  Gofpel ;  or  if  he  has  no  mind  to  flay  till  the  Papas 
comes,  he  fwears  him  by  the  Alcoran. 

THERE  are  two  Bifhops  in  this  Ifland,  the  one  a  Greek,  the  other 
a  Latin ;  this  laft  has  but  one  Prieft  for  his  whole  Body  of  Clergy,  tho 
he  be  Bifhop  of  Milo,  Argent iere,  and  Sipbanto,  where  he  keeps  only 
fimple  Vicars  :  the  See  was  vacant  in  170c,  and  'twas  thought  the  Pope 
would  have  none  but  an  Apoftolical  Vicar  there,  in  regard  the  Church  of 
Milo  is  not  endow'd  with  above  1 50  Crowns  Rent ;  formerly  it  had  500, 
but  the  Grand  Signior  after  the  War  of  Candia  having  caus'd  the  Iflands  to 
be  vifited,  and  the  Titles  of  thofe  who  were  poffefs'd  thereof  examiu'd, 
the  Latin  Bilhop  of  Milo,  who  under  leave  of  the  Venetians  enjoy'd  Burnt- 
IJland,  was  found  to  be  without  Title  :  whereupon  this  Ifland,  which  ad- 
joins to  Argent  iere,  was  put  to  fale  by  Auction,  and  fold  for  500  Crowns. 
The  laft  Bifhop  died  fo  neceffitous,  that  he  had  pawn'd  the  Chalice,  Mi- 
tre, and  all  the  Ornaments  of  his  Church :  he  had  ftarv'd  to  death,  had 
not  the  King  allow'd  him  a  Penfion.  The  Epifcopal  Church  is  in- 
titled  St.  Cofmus  and  St.  Damianus  ;  it  was  heretofore  a  Greek  Chappel, 
fold  to  the  Latins  :  the  Bifhop's  Lodge,  which  is  exactly  oppofite,  is  very 
handfome.     This  Bifhop  has   no  contcft  with   the  Greek  Bifhop  about 


thei 


I.20 


'  'OlXfiVOfiU!. 
*  2*l«SAAtt- 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

their  Income,  tho  M.  Thevenot  affirms  the  contrary :  perhaps  the  Occa- 
fton  of  their  Difference  is  ceas'd. 

THE  Greek  Biihop  is  rich.  We  law  him  not  J  he  was  gone  to  Con- 
(htntmople  to  be  confirmed  by  the  Patriarch,  who  had  appointed  a  new- 
one  with  defign  to  extort  Mony  from  the  old  one. 

THE    principal  Church   of  Milo  is  our  Lady  of  the  Port,  nctvxyix 

nO£7T«XVW. 

THE  others  are  St.  Normantinm,  a  Hermit  of  Mount  Sinai.  The 
Greeks  call  this  Saint  Kxa^KciSo^  as  who  mould  lay,  a  Saint  that  is  in- 
voked in  cafes  of  Leprofy :  Kag^  fignifies  Black,  and  a&Gos  a  Leper. 

THE  Grand  St.  George,  '*yiv>  napyioi  (AtyxKos. 

ST.  George  the  Hermit,  'a}<os  recogj^os  /ACvovx<snioftt$. 

THE  Annonciade  near  the  Square,  'tvxyfchWty. 

ST.  Anthony  near  the  Caftle,  ' hyice,  avtow'os. 

S  T.  Demetrius  in  the  lame  Quarter,  \yio%  ah/wht^i'oc. 

ST.  Michael,  the  Archangel,  '&ym<;  Ta|i'«gxHS. 

ST.  John  Baptist,  't>.yi@j  icsxvvk  ngo'^,go/u<§H. 

THE  Grand  St.  Nicholas,  'Ay!&  Nmo\a©j  iAiyxh(Qj; 

THE  Little  St.  Nicholas,  'A.y!&  NwoA.a©-'  ftwgos. 

THE  Holy  Gholt,  ' Ay iov  mivi&x. 

S  T.  Athanajius,  'Ayi&  A3rtv&ai&. 

ST.  Spiridion,  'Ayl&  s^g/^?. 

01) R  Lady,  Uxvxy'ix  Kugi'a. 

THE  Forty  Saints,  'a>i'o«  salvia. 

ST.  Polycarpas,    a/®-'  noAvstagTrcs. 

S  T.  Eleutherius,  'Ayi&  hhitttp^ 

THESE  Churches  are  fo  many  Pariflies,  and  each  hath  its  Papas. 
Next  to  the  Biihop,  the  '  Economus  is  the  firfl;  Dignity  Ecclefiaftick ; 
he  walks  on  the  right  hand  of  that  Prelate,  whole  Subftitute  or  Vicar 
he  is.  The '  Treafurer  walks  on  the  left  :  the '  Archivift  or  Record- 
keeper  comes  next ;  all  his  Places  are  in  the  Bilhop's  dilpofal :  more  than 
this,  he  has  thirty  Priefts  under  him. 

BESIDES  the  Chappels,  which  are  very  numerous  in  this  Illand, 
there  are  thirteen  Monafteries  :  to  wit, 

OVR  Lady  of  the  Cajtle,  uxmyiA  Kot^iocvw,  two  miles  from  the  Town, 
Eaftvvard.  ,  5  71 


Defcription  of  the  Ijland  of  Milo.  i  2 1 

S  T.  Helen,  towards  the  North,  a  mile  from  the  Town,  'a^x  z\(w.         Letter  IV* 

OV  R  Lady  of  the  Veil,  on  a  little  Hill,  Eaflward,  a  mile  and  a  half  ^r^r^^J 
from  the  Town,  nxvxyix  "a^u^m. 

6"  T.  Michael  the  Archangel,   depending  on  the  Convent  of  the  fame 
Name,  which  is  in  the  Ifle  of  Serpho,  'Ayv^rxlix^wi. 

THE  Monapry  of  Chritf,  dependant  on  the  Convent  of  St.  John  de 
Patino  or  Patmos,  'o  x^scs. 

5  T.  Saba,  belonging  to  the  Patriarch  of  Jerafalent,  \ylx  xa€«. 

5  T.  Johtr  de  Fer,   fituated  below  the  Mountain  of  St.  Elijah,  rAy& 

OVR   Lady  of  the  Mount,   Eafhvard,   four  "miles  from  the  Town, 
uxvxyx    B8v«5b. 

OVR  Admirable  Lady,  four  miles  ofF  in  like  manner,  uxvxylx Oio-Qxvt. 

OV  R  Lady  of  the  Garden,  nxvxyix  Kynro. 

S  T.  Elijah  near  Cajlro,  on  a  Hill  over  againfl  the  grand  Mountain  of 
St.  Elijah,    on  the  top  whereof  is  a  Solitude,    where   there's  but  one 
Caloyer;  'a>«s  'bKU<;. 

ST.  George  the  Bald,  on  a  Hill  near  St.  Elijah,  in  fight  of  the  Port, 
'Ayloi  rs&pj/ios  koc7t»a.us. 

ST.  Marine,  a  Convent  below  St.  Elijah,  'a-^x  m«?i'vm. 

THIS  is  the  faireft  Monaftery  in  all  the  Ifland  :  they  drink  admira- 
ble Wine,  not  at  all  inferiour  to  that  of  Candia.  There  are  more  Olive- 
Trees  hereabouts,  than  any  where  elfe  throughout  Milo.  The  Spring  that 
waters  the  Gardens  of  this  Convent,  is  very  beautiful,  and  runs  down 
into  a  huge  Well.  The  Orange  and  Cedar-Trees  would  be  perfectly  fine, 
did  they  but  know  how  to  manage  'em.  The  Neighbourhood  of  the 
Houfe  is  pleafant,  cover'd  with  Maflick  and  Arbute-Trees,  which  are 
elfewhere  very  fcarce ;  for  they  burn  nothing  m  this  Ifland  but  Under- 
Wood,  and  for  fifteen  or  twenty  Pence,  they  buy  an  Afs-load  of  it. 

A  S  for  what  concerns  Natural  Hiflory,  Milo  muft  be  look'd  upon  to 
be  an  almofl  intirely  hollow  Rock,-  fpungy,  and  fbak'd,  as  one  may  fay, 
vvith  Salt-water  of  the  Sea.  The  Iron  Mines  which  are  found  there,  and 
Tom  whence  a  certain  Tract  of  Land  takes  the  denomination  of  St.  John  s//»^-w<> 
le-  Fer,  maintain  perpetual  Fires :  the  following  Experiments  feem  to  de- m 
nonftrate  this  Metal  to  be  the  chief  Caufe  of  fubterranean  Fires.  A 
VbL  I.  R  Prin- 


122  A  Voyage  into,  the  Levant. 

Principle,  which,  well  evinc'd,  will  help  to  explain  the  Production  of 
the  Minerals,  which  this  Ifland  fo  abounds  with. 

'TIS  certain,  Filings  of  Iron,  fteep'd  in  common  Water,  will  grow 
confiderably  warm,  and  much  more  lb  in  Sea-water  ;  and  if  you  mingle 
therewith  fome  Sulphur  powder'd,  you  will  fee  this  Mixture  really  burn 
fome  time  after  'tis  inoiiten'd.  It  is  therefore  probable,  that  the  Fires 
which  are  conftantly  felt  in  this  Ifland,  are  folely  occafion'd  by  a  ferru- 
ginous Matter,  and  by  Sulphur,  which  no  place  in  this  Ifland  is  without  : 
thefe  Materials  are  heated  by  being  drench'd  with  Sea-water.  Coafting 
round  the  Ifland  in  a  Boat,  a  Man  difcovers  multitudes  of  fubterranean 
Mouths,  through  which  the  Sea-water  ingurgitates,  and  by  means  where- 
of the  Sea-falt  is  convey'd  into  the  minutefl  Cavities  of  this  ipungeous 
Rock. 

'T I S  highly  probable,  this  Salt  undergoes  much  the  lame  Procefs  as 
that  we  put  in  our  Retorts :  namely,  the  Fire  which  is  continually  heat- 
ing the  Bowels  of  this  Ifland,  caules  an  acid  Spirit  to  feparate  from  this 
Salt,  which  Spirit  is  not  unlike  that  we  draw  from  Sea-falt  by  common 
Fire.  To  the  forefaid  Acid  muft  be  refer'd  the  Production  of  Alum  and 
Sulphur,  which  are  the  commoneft  Minerals  in  Milo :  for  this  Liquor  pe- 
netrating infenfibly  the  hardeit  Rocks,  diflblves  'em,  incorporates  with 
'em,  and  is  converted  into  Alum.  We  can  hardly  make  a  queftion  of 
this,  fince  by  pouring  Spirit  of  Salt  upon  common  Stones  or  upon  Chalk, 
aluminous  Concretions  are  produced  :  the  fame  acid  Spirit,  mix'd  with  the 
Brimflone  which  pervades  the  Veins  of  the  Earth,  occafions  the  Forma- 
tion of  Sulphur.  No  body  denies  that  Sulphur  is  only  a  fat  Subftance 
fix'd  by  an  acid  Spirit :  the  Sulphur  which  is  artificially  made,  and  the 
Analyfis  of  common  Sulphur,  put  this  Truth  out  of  all  difpute.  The 
Water  of  the  Sea  is  not  only  fait,  but  bitter  and  fat :  for  all  things  well 
confider'd,  what  can  become  of  that  vaft  quantity  of  Oil  which  mufl  be 
depofited  therein  by  the  Fifh,  which  are  continually  corrupting  ?  No 
wonder  the  Sea  is  fbmetimes  in  a  flame,  when  agitated  by  Tempefts. 
Perhaps  this  Fat  is  partly  the  Matter  of  Brimflone,  of  which  the  com- 
mon Sulphur  is  made ;  and  this  may  be  the  realbn  of  Sulphur's  being  or- 
dinarily found  in  places  lying  to  the  Sea,  where  Earthquakes  are  but  too 
frequent.     Such  are  the  famous  Vulcanoes  that  vomit  Flames  of  Fire ;  Ve- 

fuvius, 


Defer iption  of  the  Ifland  of  Milo.  123 

fuvias,  Stromboli,  Mount  JEtna,  Mountains  in  Ireland,  Fayal,  Pic-Tene-  Letter  IV- 
rife.  In  thefe  Iflands,  and  on  the  Coafts  of  the  Terra-frma  of  America,  t-*s^v-**^ 
there  are  Fires  which  have  been  burning  from  the  beginning  of  the  World. 

T  O  return  to  the  Ifland  of  Milo,  it  certainly  abounds  with  all  the 
Materials  neceffary  to  the  Production  of  Alum  and  Sulphur.  As  for 
Nitre,  there's  none  at  all,  whatever  the  Inhabitants  fay,  who  confound  it 
with  Alum.  The  Sulphur  of  Milo  is  very  beautiful,  and  has  a  greenifh 
mining  Call,  which   made  the  Antients  prefer  it  to  that  of  Italy  •  it  is  Sed  nobiiifll- 

,.,  .  iii-  1  11         muminMelo 

found  in  this  Ifland  in  large  pieces  when  they  dig  up  the  ground,  and  in  in&U.    pu». 
huge  Veins  in  the  Quarries  whence  they  draw  their  Mill-ftones.     If  the  f^'cf?"t1\lf' 
other  Iflands  are  without  thefe  forts  of  Minerals,  it  is  becaufe  their  inte-  tivv£tu  3 
rior  Structure  favours  not  the  Introduction  of  the  Sea-water  into  the  Hoi-  Z'^"/"*,. 
lows  of  the  Rocks,  and  becaufe  they  are  empty  of  ferruginous  Particles.    •**»•  Diofc* 

^  J  r /  °  lib. $.  cap.  1 24. 

THUS  is  the  Ifland  of  Milo  a  natural  Laboratory,  wherein  is  conti- 
nually preparing  Spirit  of  Salt,  Alum,  Sulphur,  by  means  of  the  Sea-wa- 
ter, Iron,  and  Rocks ;  and  by  the  Angular  Structure  of  the  Interior  of  the 
Ifland,  which  is  lb  form'd  as  to  flrain  the  faline  and  fat  part  of  the  Sea- 
water  :  thefe  parts  are  put  in  motion  by  the  Violence  of  the  Burnings  exci- 
ted therein  day  and  night  by  the  Iron  and  Sulphur  •  which  Burnings,  pro- 
duced by  the  Spirit  of  Salt,  give  birth  to  the  Sulphur  and  Alum.  Tis 
oblervable,  that  this  fpungy  cavernous  Rock,  on  which  Milo  is  founded, 
is  a  kind  of  Stove,  gently  warming  the  Earth,  and  caufing  it  to  bring 
forth  the  bed  Wines,  and  Figs,  and  mofl  delicious  Melons  of  the  Archi- 
pelago. The  Sap  of  this  Earth  is  admirable,  and  is  always  at  work  ;  the 
Fields  there  are  never  at  reft.  The  firfl  Year  is  fbwn  Wheat,  the  fecohd 
Barley,  and  the  third  they  raife  Cotton,  Pulfe,  and  Melons,  all  higgledy- 
piggledy.     The  Champain  is  cover'd  over  with  all  manner  of  good  things: 

the  Lands  are  ib  many  Gardens,  feparated  from  each  other  by  Walls  of 
dry  Stone,  without  either  Mortar  or  Mud.     In  time  of  War  they  fow  x>  ion  five 
but  little  Cotton,  becaufe  the  Armies  are  furnifh'd  from  thence  with  Corn,  ba^eum"01 
French-Beans,  and  other  Pulfe :  in  time  of  Peace  they  don't  gather  Corn  f*au"'  *' 
enough  for  the  Inhabitants ;  but  they  fow  a  great  deal  of  Cotton,  which 
yields  a  better  Price.     Cotton  in  the  Cod,  that  is,  wrapt  in  its  Fruit,  is 
worth  a  Sequin  the  Hundred  Weight,  and  ten  or  a  dozen  Livres  when  it  7  l>v.  jo  s. 
is  ftript.  140  Liv. 

1  weight. 

R  2  FROM 


124.  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant 

FROM  the  Town  to  the  Road  for  Ships,  the  length  of  two  miles, 

there's  nothing  to  be  feen  but  Gardens,  and  Fields  crouded  with  Wheat, 

Barley,  Cotton,  Sefamum,  Frencb-Beanss  Melons,  Gourds,  Coloquintida ; 

thefe  Fields  are  terminated  by  the  Salt-pits,  and  the  Salt-pits  by  the  fore- 

faid  Road,  the  Heights  whereof  are  cover'd  with  fine  Vineyard  Plots, 

Olive  and  Fig-Trees. 

THIS  Road  may  eafily  contain  a  large  Naval  Army :  its  Entrance 

Miftwi.  faces  the  North- Weft,  and  the  Ships  he  fecure  from  every  Wind  towards 

rifUTt.5*-       the  Protothalaffa,  where  is  good  Anchorage.     The  two  fmall  Rocks  at  the 

teZ'uM,       mouth  of  the  Road  are  call'd  Jcraries,  that  is  to  lay,  Eminencies :  Anti- 

milo  is  a  defart  Ifland  rifing  like  a  Sugar-Loaf,  between  the  Weft  and  the 

North- Weft  j  the  Greeks  call  it  Remomilo,  and  the  Franks  continue  to  call 

it  after  its  old  Name  Antimilo.     Prafonifi  is  another  Ifland  near  the  Port 

of  St.  John  de  Fery  behind  the  Mountain  of  St.  Elijah,  on  the  left  of  the 

Road,  as  you  come  from   the  Town.     There  are  likewife  many  fmall 

Shelves  or  Rocks  round  Milo ;  but  they're  too  inconfiderable  to  be  taken 

particular  notice  of. 

IN  Spring-time  Milo  and  the  reft  of  the  Iflands  of  the  Archipelago  are 
all  like  a  Carpet,  thick-fet,  and  as  it  were  ftudded  with  Anemonies  of  all 
Colours ;  they  are  fimple,  and  yet  from  their  Seeds  come  the  moft  beau- 
tiful Kinds  that  arefeenin  our  Parterres.     Of  all  the  rare  Plants  growing 
rimpinelia  fpi-  in  this  Ifland,  the  prickly  Pimpernelle  was  that  which  pleas'd  us  moft :  we 
peahens fem  na(*  met  with  it  before  in  Candid,  but  I  could  not  perfuade  my  felf  that 
Mor.umb.^.  tnjs  plant,  which  requires  great  Care  to  raife  in  our  Gardens,  could  be  Co 
common  in  the  Archipelago.     It  is  an  Under- Shrub,  call'd  in  vulgar  Greek 
Stcebida :  befides  the  Relemblance  of  its  Name,  it  aniwers  in  its  Virtues 
2t»/«.  Diofc.  to  the  Step  be  of  Diofcorides.     The  prickly  Pimpernelle  is  of  marvellous 
ufe  in  this  Ifland,  towards  multiplying  tiic  Pafturages,  and  transforming  as 
it  were  the  Heaths  into  Meadows.     In  Augujl,  when  it  blows  North,  and 
this  Plant  is  dry'd  up,  they  let  fire  to  the  foot  of  it ;    in  an  inftant 
the  Wind  carries  the  Flames  far  and  wide,  even  to  the  very  Mountains. 
The  firft  Autumn-Rains  that  fall,  fetch  out  an  excellent  Herbage  from 
thefe  burnt  Lands  :  and  this  much  lboner  than  in  France,  becaufe  it  never 
freezes  in  this  Ifland,  and  very  rarely  fnows;  when  it  does,  the  Snow 
melts  away  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour :  the  Cold  here  is  not  at  all  preju- 
dicial 


Defcription  of  the  Tjland  of  MWo.  12$ 

dicial  to  the  Olive-Trees,  as  in  Provence  and  Languedoc,  where  the  Con-  Letter  IV. 
texture  of  the  Bark  of  thofe  Trees  is  torn  by  the  Dilatation  of  the  Water,  *-»V»* 
which  freezes  in  the  Pores  of  their  Fibres.     This  happy  Temperature, 
and  the  Goodnefs  of  the  Pafturage,  contribute  mainly  to  the  Excellence 
of  the  Cattel  bred  in  this  Ifland  ;  where  you  fee  fine  Flocks  of  Goats,  of 
whofe  Milk   they  make  admirable  Cheefe.     '  CL,..cns  Alexa.nd.rinm  and  '  P«dagog. 
•  Julius  Pollux,  in  reckoning  up  the  niceft  things  ferving  for  Food  iftt-^JJ. 
Greece,  have  not  forgot  the  Goats  of  Milo.  v{£\?™~ 

WINE  is  one  of  the  beft  Commodities  of  this  Ifland  ;  throughout  cap.  10. 
the  Archipelago  they  make  it  thus  :  Every  private  Man  has  in  his  Vine- 
yard a  fort  of  a '  Ciftern,  of  what  dimensions  he  thinks  fit ;  it  is  made  '  n*7»we*. 
fquare,  well  wall'd,  and  cemented  with  Brick-Mortar,  open  at  top.     In  „  m^J-prefil 
this  they  flarnp  the  Grapes,  after  letting 'em  lie  in  it  two  or  threcdaysto  ""^£^1 
dry  :  as  faft  as  the  Muft  or  Liquor  runs  out  at  a  certain  hole  of  Commu-  This  Refervoir 
nication  into  a  Bafon  plac'd  below  the  Ciftern,  they  pour  it  into  Leather  ;.,-.V;  i->  it 
Budgets,  and  away  with  it  to  Town,  where  they  empty  'em  into  Casks  c'rlpLflkh 
of  Wood,  or  into  large  Earthen  Jars,  bury'd  up  to  the  neck  in  the  ground :  *«s»  fiat 

'  "  in.ii  Stones  fiat  d 

in  thefe  Veffels  this  new  Wine  works  as  it  lifts ;  they  throw  into  it  three  at  to?. 
or  four  Handfuls  of  white-lime  Plafter,  with  the  addition  now  and  then 
of  a  fourth  part  of  frefh  or  fait  Water,  according,  to  the  Conveniency  of 
the  place.  After  the  Wine  has  fufficiently  work'd,  they  flop  up  the 
VelTels  with  Plafter ;  which  is  no  fcarce  thing  here,  efpecially  towards 
Poloni :  for  want  of  Wood,  they  burn  it  with  Cow-dung. 

THEIR  way  of  warning  Linen,  is,  to  let  it  fteep  in  Water  ;  then 
fmear  it  with  a  white  Earth  or  Chalk,  the  fame  as  the  Terra  Cimolia 
mention'd  before.     A  finer  and  whiter  fort,  I'm  apt  to  think,  might  be 
found,  if  they  would  take  pains  to  dig  for  it.     Diofcorides  and  Pliny  call  Meiinnm  can- 
it  the  Earth  of  Milo,  becaule  in  their  days  the  beft  was  found  in  this  eft  optimu^™ 

jn        .  .  inlnfulaMelo. 

"W*'  Plin.Hifi.Nat. 

THE  Waters  of  Milo  are  not  very  good  to  drink,  efpecially  in  low ''*•  35  •  M/«  6» 
places,  where  they  a*e  infected  with  a  Smell  of  Sulphur  and  rotten  Eggs. 
They  have  fcarce  one  good  Spring  but  that  of  Cafiro,  which  is  warm  at 
its  Source,  but  grows  very  cold  two  hours  after  'tis  drawn  up ;  and  for 
Lightnefs  of  Weight,  none  can  compare  with  it.  In  the  time  of  the  laft 
War,  General  Morofini  fent  fome  Galliots  to  fetch  a  quantity  of  it  for 

his 


126 


A»T£$t.       'Pit 

■ja  Akt£«, 
ad  Balnea. 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

his  Tabic.  Ca/lro  is  a  Village  (landing  on  a  Mountain,  on  the  left  hand 
as  you  enter  the  Road.  The  People  of  Provence  call  it  Six-Ovens,  from 
its  refembling  a  Village  of  the  fame  name  not  far  from  Toulon.  Our 
Abode  for  fome  days  in  this  Ifland,  gave  us  an  opportunity  to  make  the 
following  Remarks. 

THE  publick  Baths  are  at  the  foot  of  a  fmall  Hill  on  the  right,  going 
down  from  the  Town  to  the  Port :  The  Greeks  call  thefe  Baths  Loutray 
and  not  Staloutra,  as  the  Franks  pronounce  it ;  who  on  this  occafion, 
as  well  as  many  other,  corrupt  the  Expreffion  ufed  by  the  Greeks, 
when  they  call  to  one  another  to  go  to  the  Baths.  You  enter  in  at  a 
Cavern,  which  you  muft  (loop  to  go  through  ;  but  after  you  are  ad- 
vane'd  about  fifty  paces,  you  find  two  Ways,  one  of  which  is  Co  narrow, 
a  Man  mult  crawl  on  his  Hands  and  Knees :  yet  this  is  prefer'd  to  the 
other,  becaufe  the  latter,  tho  more  fpacious,  is  extremely  rugged  and  un- 
even :  both  lead  to  a  Chamber  form'd  by  Nature ;  adjoining  to  this  Cham- 
ber, is  a  Confervatory  of  lukewarm  Salt-water,  in  which  they  fit  to 
bathe.  It  is  Co  exceffive  hot  in  this  place,  that  the  Sweat  gufhes  out  in 
huge  Drops ;  this  is  much  better  than  your  artificial  Baths,  where  the 
Bread  ufually  fufFers  :  thofe  who  go  there  only  to  fweat,  fit  themfelves 
down  at  the  further  end  of  the  Chamber  in  a  place  fomewhat  rais'd. 
This  natural  Stove  would  be  proper  for  Perfons  afflicted  with  the  Pally, 
Rheumatifm,  or  other  Fluxions  independent  of  die  Secret  Difeafe,  which 
is  not  to  be  conquer'd  by  Sweatings  excited  by  external  Remedies :  and 
yet  the  Stove  we're  (peaking  of,  is  frequented  by  none  but  old  batter'd 
Debauchees,  who  can  never  be  cured  without  Mercury  ;  and  this  is  what 
brings  thefe  places  very  much  into  difcredit.  The  Water  of  the  Baths 
makes  no  manner  of  alteration  in  the  Tincture  of  Turn-fole :  it  is  nothing 
but  Sea-water  heated;  it  whitens  and  coagulates  Oil  of  Tartar;  Sea- 
water  quite  cold  will  do  the  fame.  The  Water  of  thefe  Baths  naturally 
glides  away  into  the  Salt-Marfhes  fome  paces  diflant. 

BELOW  thefe  Baths  on  the  (hore,  juft  by  Protothalajfa,  we  found 
bubbling  through  the  Sand  variety  of  little  Springs,  (b  hot  as  to  burn 
one's  Fingers :  having  never  a  Thermometer,  nor  any  other  Inftrument 
for  meafuring  the  Degree  of  Heat,  a  Thought  came  into  my  head,  to 
drop  a  dozen  of  Eggs  into  this  Water,  to  fee  iC  it  would  harden  'em  in 

five 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Milo.  127 

five  or  fix  minutes,  as  common  Water  will  over  the  fire  ;  but  to  our  great  LetteriV. 
furprize  we  found,  that  after  half  an  hour's  waiting  there  feem'd  to  be  v-/*^-' 
little  or  no  alteration  in  the  Yolk  of  thofe  Eggs.  We  open'd  lome  other 
of  our  Eggs  an  hour  after,  but  they  difTer'd  very  little  from  the  firfl ;  nor 
indeed  after  two  hours  continuing  in  the  Water  was  there  Co  much  as  one 
boil'd  as  it  mould  be.  We  obferv'd  that  fome  other  which  were  bury'd 
in  the  Sand,  were  fufficiently  boil'd,  and  fit  for  eating :  this  mews  that 
there's  as  much  difference  between  the  Warmnefs  of  Water  and  that  of 
Sand,  as  between  the  Balneum  Maria  and  the  Fire  of  Sand.  This  Phe- 
nomenon however  feem'd  to  me  to  be  fbmewhat  furprizing ;  for  I  remem- 
ber'd  I  had  feen,  at  Fort  des  Bains  in  Roufflllon,  Soldiers  eat  Pullets  boil'd 
in  that  large  fine  Conlervatory,  built  and  magnificently  arch'd  by  the 
Romans,  for  preferring  a  Spring  of  boiling  Water*  which  gufh'd  out  in  the 
high  Road.  All  the  Sources  of  boiling  Water  which  I  have  met  with  in 
different  Countries,  feem'd  to  me  to  be  equally  hot,  having  no  other 
Thermometer  but  my  Hand ;  and  I  can  fafely  fay,  I  did  not  meet  with 
any  one  of  them  that  I  could  dip  my  Fingers  in  without  burning  me. 
They  all  finoke  alike  ;  yet  there  is  this  difference  between  'em  in  relation 
to  Eggs:  in  fbme,  an  Eggfhall  not  be  boil'd  in  two  hours,  and  in  others 
four  or  five  minutes  will  do  the  bufinefs ;  as  we  obferv'd  fbme  time  after  in 
thofe  of  Proufa  the  Capital  of  Bithynia,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Olympus 
in  Afta.  The  Sediments  or  Bottoms  of  every  one  of  thefe  boiling  Wa- 
ters, feem'd  to  me  to  be  of  the  colour  of  Ruft  :  which  makes  me  fancy, 
that  they  participate  much  of  a  ferruginous  Matter. 

THIS  is  no  place  for  fpeaking  of  the  Virtue  of  hot  Waters :  all  I 
fhall  fay,  is,  that  a  Gentleman  of  Cepbalonia,  being  over-run  with  an  in- 
veterate Itch,  and  the  ufual  Remedies  proving  ineffectual,  was  cured  by 
bathing  25  days  in  the  Waters  of  Milo ;  which  were  brought  to  Town  by 
order  of  Dr.  Stai  a  Candiot,  a  Man  of  Senfe,  and  a  good  Phyfician.  This 
Perfon  had  better  luck  than  he  that  Hippocrates  tells  us  of,  who  after  be-  Epid.  lib,  5, 
ing  cured  of  the  fame  Difeafe  as  above,  by  ufing  the  Milo  Waters,  be- 
came hydropick,  and  died.  A  very  authentick  Proof  of  the  Goodnefs 
of  the  Baths  in  this  Ifland ! 

THE  1 5  th  of  Augutt  we  went  to  fee  the  purging  Fountain:  it  is  fix 
miles  off  the  Town  Northward,  between  St.  Conjlantine  and  Caftro.    This 

*  Spring 


128  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Spring  rifes  on  the  very  edge  of  the  Sea,  in  a  deep  place,  but  it  flows  on 
a  level  with  the  Sea-water,  and  often  mixes  with  it :  there  is  another  that 
bubbles  up,  a  little  beyond  it,  where  the  Sea  reaches  not  in  cairn  Wea- 
ther. They  are  almoft  lukewarm,  and  not  at  all  Salt-tafted,  but  rather 
of  a  vapid  Sweetnefs ;  and  yet  they  coagulate  Oil  of  Tartar,  tho  they 
have  no  effect:  in  other  Trials.  In  May,  when  the  Sea  is  low,  the  Greeks 
go  and  drink  of  this  Water,  by  way  of  Purgative ;  they  fwallow  whole 
Jugs  of  it,  and  after  they  have  voided  the  grois  Dejections,  they  go  on 
drinking  till  it  comes  out  at  the  Anus  as  clear  as  it  went  in  at  the  Os. 
Thus  are  they  purg'd  once  for  the  whole  Year,  as  Dogs  are  by  eating  the 
Herb  calfd  Dogs-grafs  in  the  Spring. 

AFTER  we  hadvifited  the  mineral  Waters,  we  went  to  fee  the  Alum 
Mines,  the  chief  of  which  are  half  a  league  from  the  Town  towards 
Sl  VeneranAa, :  they  are  at  prelent  unwrought,  for  fear  of  freih  Exactions 
from  the  Turks,  en  account  of  the  Profits  that  might  accrue  therefrom. 
They  made  a  thoufand  Scruples  before  they  would  let  us  lee  them ;  only 
to  skrew  a  little  Mony  out  of  us,  a  common  Practice  in  the  Levant  for 
the  leaft  Trifles.  The  Entrance  is  through  a  narrow  PafTage,  which  leads 
to  certain  Chambers,  or  hollow  Places,  formerly  made  fo,  when  they 
wrought  for  Alum :  thefe  Vaults  are  four  or  five  foot  high,  nine  or  ten 
broad,  incruftated  almoft  throughout  with  Alum,  which  grows  in  the 
form  of  flat  Stones  from  nine  to  fifteen  lines  thick  :  as  faff  as  they  take 
thefe  away,  there  come  new  ones ;  and  'tis  plain  the  Spirit  of  Salt,  which 
penetrated  thefe  Stones,  did  as  it  were  make  7em  exfoliate  according  to 
their  refpective  Veins.  The  Solution  of  this  Alum  natural  and  unpre- 
pared, is  acrid  and  ftiptick :  it  ferments  and  coagulates  Oil  of  Tartar,  in 
like  manner  as  Alum  purify'd,  from  which  it  differs  in  nothing  but  hav- 
ing a  greater  quantity  of  ftony  Matter.  The  plumous  or  feather'd  Alum, 
which  is  found  there  likewife,  performs  the  fame  Alterations  when  try'd: 
but  neither  of 'em  emits  any  urinous  Smell,  when  Oil  of  Tartar  is  pour'd 

thereon;  which  allows  no  room  to  fufpect  there's  any  mixture  of  Salt 

Ammoniack. 
THIS*  plumous  or  feather'd  Alum  is  one  of  the  moft  curious  things 

*  So  call' J,  becaufe  inftead  of  farting  into  Scales,  it  rifes  in  while  foft  Thrtdt  or  Filaments,  like  tht 
leathers  of  a  Quill,  from  whence  comes  its  Name. 

in 


Defcription  of  the  Ijland  of  Milo.  1 29 

in  all  the  Levant,  with  refpect  to  Natural  Hiftory.     No  Traveller,  that  I  Letter  IV 
know  of,  has  ever  given  an  account  of  it.     It  rifes  in  large  Lumps  com-  *S~Y~^J 
pos'd  of  Threds  fine  as  the  foftefl  Silk,  filver'd  over,  mining,  an  inch 
and  a  half  or  two  inches  in  length,  of  the  fame  tafte  with  the  Stone-Alum. 
'Tis  a  vulgar  Error,  to  think  the  feather'd  Alum  to  be  the  fame  with  the 
Lapis  Amianthus,  or  incombuftible  Stone.     Whenever  I  ask'd  for  feather'd 
Alum,  either  in  frame,  Italy,  England,  or  Holland,    they  always  fhew'd 
me  ?  bale  fort  of  Amianthus  brought  from  Caryfio  in  the  Negropont :  it  is 
eafy  to  break  and  divide,  and  of  all  the  kinds  of  Amianthus  is  certainly  the 
mod  defpicable  ■  but  it  does  not  melt  or  conlume  either  in  Fire  or  Water, 
any  more  than  the  Amumhus  of  Smyrna,  Genoa,  and  the  Pyrenees*.    T© 
make  ihort,  the  Amianthus  is  a  flony  infipid  SublTance,  which  fbftens  in 
Oil,  and  thereby  acquires  Supplenels  enough  to  be  fpun  into  Threds :  it 
makes  Puries  and  Handkerchiefs,  which  not  only  refill  the  Fire,  but  are 
whiten'd  and  cleans'd  in  it.     The  plumous  Alum,  contrariwile,  is  a  true 
Salt,  not  differing  from  the  common  Alum  otherwiie  than  as  it  is  divided 
into  fmall  Strings :  the  Stones  through  which  this  Alum  protrudes,  are 
very  light  and  friabie.     From  the  furthermoit  of  thele  Vaults  to  the  Ca- 
vern at  the  Entrance,  we  counted,  as  we  cajme  back,  a  hundred  paces  : 
and  we  were  often  fore'd  to  creep  on  our  Bellies  from  one  Vault  to 
another. 

THE  Antients  were  acquainted  with  all  thefe  forts  of  Alum.     Pliny  Concreti  aiu- 
declares,   that   next  to  the  Egyptian  Alum,   this  of  Melos  was  molt  in  genus  schifton 
efteem;  it  being,  hes  fays,  iblid.  liquid,  and  hairy  :  there  cannot,  in,  my  *j>P;„ a^" 
opinion,  be  an  aptcr  u  mpurifbn  made  of  plumous  Alum,  than  this  of  menta  iuadam 

1  r    r      1  canefi-entia  de- 

Hairinefs.  '  Diojcorides,  who  likewiie  fpoke  of  it  before  him,  lays,  that  hifcens ;  unde 
the  Alum  of  Mdos  hinders  Women  from  conceiving ;  this  may  be  but  a^n^u'sap'" 
falfe  Oblervation.  Yet  thole  Authors  who  are  commonly  look'd  upon J^^- 
as  falle  Hiftorians  of -Nature,  were  far  better  acquainted  with  thefe  Alums  w-3^.  ^.15. 
than  any  of  us.  According  to  J  Diodcrus  Si  cuius,  the  Antients  drew  but '  'H^l>'el* 
little  Alum  from  the  Ifle  we're  {peaking  of;  and  they  knew  of  none,  but lib-^.  cap.I2> 
the  Mines  of  Lipara  and  Melos.  ^Biblfoch.  Hift. 

FOUR  miles  from  the  Town,  Southward,  on  the  edge  of  the  Sea,  in 
a  very  fteep  place,  is  a  Grotto  about  fifteen  paces  deep,  whither  the  Wa- 
ter of  the  Sea  penetrates  when  it  is  rough  Weather.     This  Grotto,  which 
V©1.  I.  S  "  is 


i go  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

is  from  fifteen  to  twenty  foot  high,  is  all  crufted  over  with  Alum  fubli- 
mate,  white  as  Snow  in  fbme  places,  reddifh  in  others,  and  golden- 
colour'd  like  the  Chymical  Flowers  of  Salt  Ammoniack  ;  which  doubdels 
proceeds  from  fbme  mixture  of  Iron  or  Oker.  All  the  Rocks  round  the 
Cavern  are  lin'd  with  the  like  Concretions,  of  which  there  are  a  great  many 
which  are  only  of  Salt  Marine  fublimated,  as  foft  and  fine  as  Peruke- 
Powder  ;  you  may  fee  the  holes  through  which  appears  the  Alum  per- 
fectly pure,  and  as  it  were  gritty,  but  exceflively  hot :  thefe  Concretions 
ferment  cold  with  Oil  of  Tartar. 

AMONG  thefe  Concretions,  we  difcover'd  two  forts  of  Flowers  very 
white,  fine  as  Silk-Thred :  the  one  aluminous  and  acrid,  the  other  utter- 
ly infipid  and  ftony.  The  aluminous  Threds  are  but  three  or  four  lines 
long,  and  faften'd  to  Concretions  of  Alum  ;  fb  that  they  differ  nothing 
from  the  plumous  Alum  :  but  the  ftony  Threds  are  longer,  a  little  more 
flexible,  and  iflue  from  thofe  Rocks.  'Tis  highly  probable  this  is  the 
2,;b.5.cap.i2>  Stone  which  Diofcorides  compares  with  the  plumous  Alum,  tho  it  be,  as 
he  fays,  taftelefs  and  non-aflringent :  the  fame  Author  diftinguifhes  it  from 
the  Lapis  Amianthus.  Be  that  as  'twill,  this  Concretion  fhould  feem  to  be 
a  Vegetation  of  the  Rock  it  felf;  for  there  are  found  parcels  of  thefe 
Threds  that  have  loft  their  Flexibility,  and  are  become  very  Stones  rbr 
hardnefs,  and  yet  the  Direction  of  the  Threds  not  confounded  nor  ef- 
faced :  this  may  furnifh  new  Lights  towards  the  Knowledge  of  the  Vege- 
tation of  Stones,  which  I  propos'd  in  the  Hifiory  of  the  Academy  Royal  of 
Sciences.  The  fame  Direction  of  Fibres  appears  fenfibly  in  every  Species 
of  the  Amianthus,  efpecially  in  that  of  the  Pyrenees  and  Smyrna.  Thefe 
Stones  are  very  hard  for  a  certain  fpace  of  time,  and  ftriped  according  to 
their  length :  afterwards  they  de-compound  thernlelves,  I  can't  tell  how, 
and  their  Strings  or  Filaments  feparate  themfelves  from  each  other  in  par- 
cels, as  if  they  had  been  glued  together  at  firfl,  and  now  were  unglued. 
We  likewife  very  fenfibly  perceiv'd  the  fame  Direction  in  the  Stone 
whence  is  taken  that  beautiful  Plafter  of  Spain  :  this  is  a  very  common 
Stone  in  Provence.  I  have  in  my  poffeffion  fbme  pieces  of  Plafter  of 
Montmartre,  where  are  the  like  Concretions'. 

THE  Flexibility  of  thefe  Stones  of  Milo,  which  properly  fpeaking  are 
nothing  elfe  but  ftony  Embryos,  may  help  to  account  fot  a  wonderful 

Stone, 


Defcription  of  the  IJlcrnd  of  Milo.  1 3  r 

Stone,  which  M.  Lattthier  has  a  long  time  prefcrvM  in  his  Cabinet :  this  Letter  IV* 
Stone,  which  was  very  hard,  a  fort  of  a  brown  Free-done,  fquare,  near  ^^^^^ 
two  inches  thick,  and  one  foot  long,  had  a  certain  Flexibility,  fo  that  it 
would  vifiblybend  in  your  hand,  when  you  held  it  in  the  middle  in  an 
Equilibrium,  and  let  it  poife  even. 

SOME  paces  from  this  Cavern  on  the  Sea-ihore  is  another  Grotto, 
the  bottom  whereof  is  fill'd  with  Sulphur,  which  is  incefTantly  burning, 
fo  as  there's  no  going  into  it.  All  the  places  near  are  continually  fmoking,. 
and  fometimes  caft  out  Flames  of  Fire ;  there's  feen  Sulphur  perfectly  pure? 
and  a*  it  were  mblimated,  which  is  incefTantly  inflamed  in  certain  places  : 
there  are  others,  from  whence  diflils  drop  by  drop  a  Solution  of  Alum,  much 
more  acrid  than  that  of  common  Alum  ;  this  Solution  is  of  an  almoft  cor- 
rofive  Stipticity,  and  ferments  briskly  with  Oil  of  Tartar.  According 
to  appearance,  this  fhould  be  that  fort  of  Alum,  which  Pliny  calls  liquid 
Alum,  and  which  he  pofitively  affigns  to  the  Ifle  of  Melos :  however, 
this  kind  of  Alum  was  not  liquid,  as  may  be  feen  in  Diofcorides.  It 
feems  as  if  the  Liquor  which  flows  from  this  Grotto  fhould  be  only  a 
Spirit  of  Salt,  which  in  Solution  contains  terrene  and  aluminous  Particles : 
this  confirms  the  natural  and  continual  Production  of  Spirit  of  Salt,  in 
the  Bowels  of  this  Ifland.  They  who  are  troubled  with  the  Itch,  go  and 
fweat  in  this  Grotto  ;  they  gently  bathe  and  foment  with  this  Liquor  of 
Alum,  luch  parts  of  their  Skin  as  are  moft  affected ;  then  they  wafh 
themfelves  in  Sea-water,  and  are  generally  cured  without  any  more  ado. 

I  SHOULD  never  make  an  end,  were  I  to  defcribe  all  the  various 
Caverns  of  this  Ifland.  There's  not  a  hole  in  thefe  Rocks,  but  if  you 
put  your  Head  down,  you'll  feel  a  confiderable  Warmth.  When  the 
Corfairs  were  Maflers  of  this  Ifland,  they  caus'd  to  be  repair'd  an  an- 
tient  Stove,  which  ftill  bears  their  name.  They  made  in  it  very  con- 
venient Rooms,  where  they  would  go  and  fweat  fome  days  together : 
this  Stove  is  a  natural  Cavern,  fituated  on  one  fide  of  the  Mountain  of 
St.  Elijah,  and  heated  by  the  Vapours  of  fome  warm  Water  like  that  of 
the  Baths.  'Tis  plain  this  is  no  dry  Exhalation,  becaufe  it  fupples  and 
mollifies  the  Skin,  thereby  facilitating  Tranfpiration  :  they  would  be  of 
great  ufe  in  Rheumatifins  and  certain  Palfies  ;  but  as  it  is  frequented 
only  by  fuch  as  labour  under  Venereal  Diftempers,  moft  of 'em,  inftead 

S  2  of 


XJ>( 


132  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant 

of  being  better,  are  the  worfe  for  it ;  becaufe  only  the  mod:  fubtile  part 
of  the  Poifon  being  carry'd  off  by  Sweating,  what  remains  behind  of 
that  Humour  turns  fb  acrimonious,  that  it  deftroys  the  Contexture  of  the 
Bones. 

AFTER  examining  the  Cavern  whence  diftils  this  aluminous  Liquor, 
A)4t>s  Kvel*.-  we  were  led  to  a  Chappel  dedicated  to  St.  CyrUcu-s ;  not  far  off  it,  is  a 
Spot  of  Ground  that  is  incelTantly  burning,  and  the  Fields  about  it  con- 
tinually fraoking  ;  fome  of  'em  as  yellow  as  if  they  were  cover'd  with 
Marigold  Flowers  :  this  is  owing  to  the  Sulphur,  that  colours  the  Earth 
fb.  The  burning  Fountain  of  Dauphine,  which  more  juftly  is  call'd  the 
burning  Earth,  is  of  the  lame  nature. 

T  H  O  the  Air  of  Milo  is  very  unwholefome,  and  the  Inhabitants  fub- 

ject  to  dangerous  Diftempers,  yet  they  lead  a  merry  Life :  they  regale 

very  cheap  ;  Partridges  are   not  above  a  Groat  or  Five-Pence  apiece : 

Turtle-Doves,    Quails,  Wheatears,  Wood-Pidgeons,    and  Ducks,   are  in 

.great  plenty ;    as  likewife    good   Figs,    Melons,    and  excellent  Grapes. 

BraflkaGon-  Roots  of  the  Cabbage-Kind  are  not  bad ;  nor  is  there  any  want  of  deli- 

%n.  "'  C* B'  cate  Fifti  on  Faft-days :  there  are  alio  very  good  Oyfters,  but  thole  call'd 

'  TcuJk&Tri-   I  red  Oyfters  are  tough  as  Whit-leather,  and  intolerably  fait ;  the  Shell-fifh 

f6'  ,.  call'd  '  Goats-eyes  are  perfectly  delicious,  and  bigger  than  in  Provence. 

WHEN  we  were  in  this  Ifland,  there  raged  a  terrible  Diftemper,  not 
uncommon  in  the  Levant ;  it  carries  off  Children  in  twice  twenty-four 
hours.  It  is  a  Carbuncle  or  Plague-Sore  in  the  bottom  of  the  Throat, 
attended  with  a  violent  Fever ;  this  Malady,  which  may  be  call'd  the 
Child's  Plague,  is  epidemical,  tho  it  ipares  adult  People.  The  beffc 
way  to  check  the  prcgrefs  of  it,  is  to  vomit  the  Child  the  moment 
he  complains  of  a  fore  Throat,  or  that  he  is  perceiv'd  to  grow  heavy- 
headed  :  this  Remedy  muft  be  repeated  according  as  there's  occafion,  in 
order  to  evacuate  a  fort  of  Aqua-fortis  that  difcharges  it  felf  on  the 
Throat.  It  is  necefTary  to  fiipport  the  Circulation  of  the  Juices,  and  the 
Strength  of  the  Patient,  with  fpirituous  things ;  fiach  as  Treacle,  Spirits 
volatile,  aromatick,  unc~Hous,  and  the  like.  The  Solution  of  liquid  Styrax 
(commonly  call'd  in  Engliflj  Storax)  in  Brandy,  is  an  excellent  Garga- 
rifhi  upon  this  occafion ;  which  tho  a  Cafe  that  requires  the  greatefl  di£ 
patch,  yet  the  Levantines  are  as  flow  as  if  'twere  a  chronica^  not  an 

acute 


Defcriptlon  of  the  IJland  of  Milo.  133 

acute  Diftemper.    The  Surgeons  here  arc  for  the  moft  part  arrant  Ignora-  Letter  IV. 

mus's    and  either  French  or  Italian  all  of  'em.     Yet  at  Conjlantinople  we  ^-/"v'^-' 

met  with  an  able  Surgeon,  M.  Defchiens,  who  was  bred  in  the  Hotel  Dieu 

of  Parii.     Among  the  Phyficians,  M.  le  Due  holds  the  firft  place  ;  he  is 

of  Fire  in  Normandy,  and  pra&ifes  Phyfick  with  great  Succefs  and  Credit. 

We  were  likewife  acquainted  with  another  excellent  Perfon,  who,  to  the 

Practice  of  Phyfick,  of  which  he  has  no  fmall  fhare,  has  join'd  the  Study 

of  Mathematicks  and  Natural  Philofophy ;  and  this  is  M.  Spoleti,  Profef- 

for  of  Padua,  who  formerly  was  a  Retainer  to  M.  Soranzo  the  Venetian 

AmbafTador. 

THE  Phyficians,  all  over  the  Levant,  are  generally  Jews  or  Natives 
of  Candia,  old  Nurfelings  of  Padua,  who  dare  purge  none  but  fuch  as  are 
upon  the  mending  hand.  The  whole  Science  of  the  Orientals,  in  mat- 
ter of  Diftempers,  confifts  in  giving  fat  Broths  to  fuch  as  are  in  a  Fever, 
and  in  reducing  their  Diet  to  next  to  nothing :  that  is  to  lay,  for  the  firft 
fifteen  or  fixteen  days  of  a  continual  Fever,  happen  what  will,  they  will 
not  fuffer  the  Patient  to  take  any  thing  but  a  flender  Panade  twice  a  day, 
or  two  Doles  of  Rice-water;  Thefe  Panadoes  are  Bread  crumb'd,  and 
boil'd  in  Broth  not  made  of  Flefli-Meat :  they  let  a  certain  quantity  of 
Crumb  of  Bread  foak  in  warm  Water,  and  then  boil  this  Water  till  the 
Crumb  is  almoft  diflolv'd ;  fometimes  they  add  a  little  Sugar  at  laft.  This 
Food  agrees  better  with  the  Conftitution  of  Carthusian  Monks  than  Lay- 
men, who  muft  be  blooded  or  purg'd  at  certain  times,  in  order  to  prevent 
fuch  Accidents,  as  without  luch  precaution  would  be  the  death  of  'em. 
Thus  fares  it  with  thefe  poor  Greeks,  whom  the  flighteft  Fever  (with  their 
way  of  managing)  reduces  to  Skin  and  Bones,  and  they  are  whole  Years 
in  recovering.  Hippocrates,  the  learnedeft  of  all  the  Greek  Phyficians, 
has  reafon  good  to  condemn  this  outrageous  way  of  Dieting,  and  pre- 
fcribes  Purgatives  as  foon  as  ever  the  Symptoms  fufficiently  appear. 

I F  the  Patient  grows  light-headed,  he  is  prefently  look'd  upon  as  pof-  "E%t  **e**»r> 
fefs'd  by  the  Devil :  the  Phyficians  and  Surgeons  are  ftrait  difmifs'd,  and 
the  Papas  fent  for ;  who  after  they  have  extoll'd  the  fage  Conduct:  of 
his  Parents,   fall  to  repeating   I  know  not  what  Prayers,  and  almoft: 
drown  the  Patient  with  Holy  Water  :  and  fo  torment  him  with  Exor- 
cifms,  that  inftead  of  abating  his  Delirioufhefs,  they  add  to  it.     At  My- 

*  cone 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

cone  they  calPd  us  Madmen,  for  propofmg  to  the  Relations  of  a  Woman 
of  Quality  to  have  her  blooded  in  the  Foot,  to  fettle  her  Head.     The 
Papas  were  going  to  ring  us  a  Peal:  What  could  we  fay  to  People  that 
won't  hear  Reafon?     Not  content  with  fplitting  her  Brains  two  or  three 
days,  under  pretence  of  driving  the  Devil  out  of  her  Body  nolens  z'olens, 
they  carry'd  the  poor  Woman  to  Church,  and  threaten'd   to  bury  her 
quick,  if  ilie  did  not  declare  the  Name  of  the  Demon  that  pofTefs'd  her ; 
could  we  but" learn  his  Name,  quo'  they,  we'd  loon  make  him  know  his 
Lord  God  from  Tom  Bell.     For  want  of  this,  they  were  fadly  at  a  non- 
plus, for  they  knew  not  how  to  fpeak  to  him.    The  Papas  were  in  a 
Muck-fweat  upon't,  and  as  uneafy  as  if  they  trod  upon  thorns  :  at  length 
the  fick  Party,  whofe  Diftemper  was  a  mod  malignant  Fever,  made  her 
Exit  in  fuch  ftrong  Convulfions,  as  frighten'd  every  body.     The  whole 
Art  of  the  Papas  terminated  in  making  the  By-ftanders  fenfible  of  the 
Violence  of  the  Conflict  between  the  Devil  and  the  Patient,  who  for 
not  making  a  vigorous  Defence,  thefe  Doctors  faid  fhould  not  be  bury'd 
in  confecrated  Ground  ;    and  accordingly   they   carry'd  her  from  the 
Church  to  the  Country,  whereas  others  are  brought  from  the  Country  to 
the  Church.     Whenever  any  one  recovers  after  fb  tragical  a  Scene,  the 
People  cry  a  Miracle,  and  the  Papas  go  for  Wonder-workers. 

BEFORE  we  le&Milo,  we  went  to  the  top  of  St.  Elijah  (the  high  eft 
Mountain  of  the  Country)  for  the  pleafure  of  furveying  the  adjoining 
Iflands  ;  'tis  one  of  the  fined  Views  of  the  Archipelago  .•  'twas  a  glorious 

■  imerfufa  m-  ^ne  D^y^  ancj  yielded  us  a  fight  of  an  Infinity  of  Iflands,  which  glitter 

xquoia  Cycia-  m  tne  Sea,  as  '  Horace  exprefTes  it. 

das.  Hor.lib.l' 
Od.  12. 

siphanto.        WHEN  we  were  defcended  from  this  Mountain,  we  embark'd  for  the 

Ifle  of  Siphanto,  which  is  not  above  3  6  miles  from  Milo.     Siphanto  retains 

its  old  Name  of  Siphnos,  which  Stephens  the  Geographer  derives  from  one 

SI4N02.    Siphma  the  Son  of  Sun'ton  :  for  before  that,  it  was  call'd  Merope,  according 

Hift.  Nat.      to  the  fame  Author ;  and  Merapia  and  Acis,  according  to  Pliny,  who  makes 

1  .4.  cap.  12.  .^  ^^  ke  ^g  miles  in  Circumference,  tho  'tis  reckon'd  at  40. 

THE  Ifle  of  Siphanto  is  in  a  fine  Air :  they  efpecially  think  fb,  who 
arrive  there  from  Milo,  where  the  fulphureous  Vapours  are  perfectly  in- 
fectious.    There  are  Men  at  Siphanto  1 20  Years  old  :  the  Air,  Water, 

Fruit, 


Defer ipt ion  of  the  IJland  of  Siphanto.  1 35 

Fruit,  Wild-Fowl,  Poultry,  every  thing  there  is  excellent ;  their  Grapes  Letter  IV; 

are  wonderful,  but  the  Wines  not  delicate,  and  therefore  they  drink  thole  ^* 

of  Milo  und  Santorin.     Tho  Siphanto  is  cover'd  over  with  Marble  and 

Granate,  yet  is  it  one  of  the  molt  fertile  and  beft-improv'd  Ifles  of  the 

Archipelago :  it  fupplies  Corn  enough  for  its  Inhabitants,  who  are  a  good 

fort  of  People.     Their  Ancestors  Morals  were  very  iiandalous.     When 

any  one  was  upbraided  of  living  like  a  Siphantine,  or  keeping  his  Word  like 

a  Siphantine,  it  was  as  much  as  calling  him  Rogue ;  according  to  Ste-  ^h"'' 

then s  the  Geographer,  Hefychms,  and  Suidas.  Sty/fa  *#*- 

THE  Inhabitants  of  Siphanto  employ  themfelves  in  improving  theirs  Suid. 
Oils  and  Capers.     The  Silk  of  the  Ifland  is  very  good,  but  they  have 
not  much  of  it ;  there's  great  demand  for  their  Callicoes.     The  other 
Commerce  of  Siphanto  is  in  Figs,  Onions,  Wax,  Honey,  Selamum ;  they 
work  likewife  in  Straw-Hats,  which  are  Ibid  all  over  the  Archipelago  by 
the  name  of  Siphanto  Caftors.     This  Ifland,  wherein  there  are  above  5000 
Souls,  wastax'd  in  1700,  at  the  rate  of  4000  Crowns  to  the  Capitation 
and  Land-Tax.    Befide  the'  Cattle  fituated  on  a  Rock  by  the  Sea-fide,  'PrtbtBurgh. 
and  perhaps  built  on  the  Ruins  of  the  old  Apollonia,  there  are  five  Vil-  AnoAAn- 
lages,  Artimone,  Stavril,  Catavati,  Xambela,  and  Petali  ;    four  Convents 
of  Caloyers,  Brici  or  the  Fountain,  Stomongoul,  St.  Chryfofiom,  and  St.  Eli- 
jah ;  two  Convents  of  Nuns,  one  containing  about  20,  and  the  other  40, 
in  a  place  calPd  Camarea.     Thefe  1  Maidens  do  not  always  lead  the  mod  2  Caloyeres  or 
regular  Lives  :  ibmetimes  they  come  hither  from  the  Archipelago,  to  mak.e   3  °swes' 
their  Vows.     There  are  500  Cbappels,  and  60  Papas,  who  lay  Mais  but 
once  a  year,  the  day  of  the  Dedication  of  their  Chappels. 

THE  Harbours  of  the  Ifle  are  Faro,   Vati,  Kjtriani,  Kjroniflo,  and 
that  of  the 3  Cattle.     Faro  has  doubtleis  preferv'd  the  Name  of  an  antient '  LaCalanque. 
Phare  or  Light-Houfe,  which  lerv'd  for  the  Direction  of  Shipping.     Golt- 
zim  gives  us  a  Medal,  where  on  one  fide  is  reprefented  a  Tower  with  a    legend. 

■»,  1  L  l.      tt        i        rev       •  J-  a-  SI*NOT. 

Man  at  top ;  on  the  other,  the  Head  of  Jupiter,  according  to  l\omm  \ 
for  my  part,  I  rather  take  it  to  be  a  Head  of  Neptune.     M.  Foucault,  who 
has  the  bell  Collection  next  the  King's,  has  a  Medal  of  this  Ifland  ;  the     Legend. 
Type  is  a  Head  oiGordiantis  Pius,  and  the  Reverfe  a  Pallas  with  a  Head- Cl*NIflN' 
piece  on,   and  darting  a  Javelin.     The  Ports  of  Siphanto  were  pretty 
much  frequented  about  fifty  Years  fince  :   one  Bafili,  a  rich  Trader  of 

*  this 


136 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant 


this  Ifland,  and  who  lies  inter'd  in  the  Monaflery  of  Brici,  drew  thither 
by  his  Induftry  and  Ingenuity  a  great  Refort  of  Ships  from  Frame  and 
Venice. 

S1PHJNTO,  in  days  of  yore,  was  famed  for  its  rich  Gold  and  Sil- 
ver Mines :  at  prefent  they  fcarce  know  the  places  where  thole  Mines 
were.  To  mew  us  one  of  the  principal,  they  carry'd  us  to  the  Sea- 
fide  near  San-Softi,  a  Chappel  half  in  Ruins  ;  but  we  law  no  more 
than  the  Mouth  of  the  Mine,  and  we  could  move  no  farther  becaufe  of 
the  Intricacy  and  Darknefs  of  the  place.  Its  Situation  did  however  re- 
Defcrip.  Gr«c.  ca\[  t0  our  mind  the  account  Paufanias  gives  of  this  matter ;  namely,  that 

Phocic.  r  1         1  1  1 

Apollo  appropriated  to  himfelf  the  tenth  part  of  the  Gold  and  Silver 
which  was  got  out  of  the  Mines  of  Siphnos,  and  that  they  were  deftroy'd 
by  an  Inundation  of  the  Sea,  which  aveng'd  that  God  for  the  Contempt 
fhewn  him  by  the  Inhabitants,  in  refuting  to  pay  that  fort  of  Tribute. 
Lib.  3.  Herodotus  fpeaks  of  another  Misfortune,  which  thefe  Mines  brought  upon 

this  Ifland.  Such  of  the  Samians  as  had  declar'd  War  againft  Poljcrates 
their  Tyrant,  finding  themfelves  forfaken  by  the  Lacedemonians  after  the 
Siege  of  Samos  was  rais'd,  fled  to  Siphnos,  where  they  wanted  to  borrow 
ten  Talents.  Siphnos  was  at  that  time  the  richeft  of  all  the  Iflands,  yet 
they  refus'd  to  comply  with  the  Samians  :  whereupon  thefe  lad  fell  to 
plundering  the  whole  Country,  and  the  Inhabitants  were  forc'd  to  give 
them  a  hundred  Talents  by  way  of  Redemption.  'Tis  pretended  that 
the  Pythcr/efs  had  foretold  this  Difafler  :  being  confuked  by  the  Siphnians 
how  long  their  Wealth  would  hold  out,  Hie  bid  'em  beware  of  a  red 
EmbalTy  at  a  time  when  their  Town-houfe  and  Market-place  was 
white.  This  Prophecy  was,  it  feems,  fulfill'd  upon  the  arrival  of  the 
Samians,  whole  Ships  were  painted  red,  according  to  the  old  Cuflrom  of 
the  Infularies  who  have  plenty  of  Bolus ;  and  the  Town-houfe  of  Siph- 
nos, as  well  as  the  Market-place,  was  faced  with  white  Marble. 

BESIDES  the  Mines aforefaid,  they  have  plenty  of  Lead  :  the  Rains 
make  a  plain  difcovery  of  this,  go  almofl  where  you  will  throughout  the 
whole  Ifland.     The  Oar  is  greyifh,  fleek,  and  yields  a  Lead  like  Pew- 
ter.    This  Lead,  which  is  a  fort  of  natural  Cerufe,  eafily  vitrifies ;  and 
•  Hift  Nat '   ma^es    trie  Seething-pots   of  the  Ifland    exceeding   good.     '  Theopbraf- 
jib.36.  cnp.22.  tf#y  '  Plii/j,  5  ljUorusy  write,  that  at  Siphnos  they  uled  to  carve  out  of  a 

On'g.  lib.  16. 

<ap.  4.  certain 


Defcription  of  the  I/land  of  Siphanto.  137 

certain  foft  Stone,  a  fort  of  Pots  to  boil  Meat  in ;  and  that  thefe  Pots  Letter  IV. 
would  turn  black,  and  grow  very  hard,  by  being  fcalded  in  boiling  Oil :  v-/"^r^-' 
the  Drinkins-Cups  that  uled  to  be  made  here,  were  likewife  much  in  2'>«"  n*r»- 

0        r  e<ev.  Steph. 

requeft. 

ABOUT  fifty  Years  ago  there  came  to  Siphanto  fame  Jews,  by  order 
of  the  Porte,  to  examine  into  the  Lead-Mines ;  but  the  Burghers  fearing 
they  fhould  be  conftrain'd  to  work  'em,  bribed  the  Captain  of  the  Galliot 
that  had  brought  over  thofe  Jems,  to  fink  hisVeflel,  which  according- 
ly he  did  by  boring  holes  in  it  while  the  Jews  were  aboard,  with  a 
Cargo  of  Oar  confign'd  to  Thejfalonica.  This  Officer  laved  himlelf  in 
hisChaloupe,  the  reft  went  to  the  bottom.  After  this,  fome  other  Jews 
came  over  on  the  like  Errand,  but  made  no  better  a  hand  on't.  The 
Siphantines,  to  get  rid  of  'em  at  once,  gave  a  Sum  of  Mony  to  a  Corfair 
of  Provence,  who  was  at  Milo,  and  who  cannonaded  a  fecond  Galliot 
laden  with  Jews  and  Lead-Oar :  fb  that  the  Turks  and  Jews  both  gave  over 
their  Enterprize. 

THE  Turks  did  not  dare  to  appear  much  abroad  in  thefe  Mauds  before 
the  departure  of  the  French  Privateers,  who  would  often  go  and  take  'em 
by  the  beard,  and  away  with  'em  on  board  Ship,  where  they  made  Slaves 
of  'em.  Our  Privateers  have  been  fometimes  more  fuccefsful  in  the  Pre- 
fervation  of  Chriftianity,  than  the  molt  zealous  Miflionaries  :  witnefs  the 
following  Example.  Some  Years  ago,  ten  or  a  dozen  Families  of  Naxos 
embrac'd  the  Mahometan  Religion :  the  Chriftians  of  the  Latin  Commu- 
nion got  'em  fnapt  up  by  the  Privateers,  who  carry'd  'em  to  Malta.  Since 
which,  no  one  has  thought  it  worth  while  to  turn  Mahometan  at  Naxos. 
The  famoufeft  Corfairs  of  the  Archipelago  had  nothing  odious  but  the 
Name  of  Corfair.  They  were  Men  of  Quality  and  diftinguilh'd  Valour, 
who  only  follow'd  the  Mode  of  the  Times  they  liv'd  in.  Did  not  Mef- 
fieurs  de  Valbelle,  Gardane,  Qolongue,  come  to  be  Captains  and  Flag-Offi- 
cers  of  the  King's  Fleet,  after  they  had  cruis'd  upon  the  Infidels?  How 
many  Knights  of  Malta  do  we  fee  fupporting  in  the  Levant  the  Chriftian 
Name,  under  the  Banner  of  Religion  ?  Thefe  Gentlemen  minifter  Juftice 
to  fuch  as  addrefs  themfelves  to  'em.  If  a  Greek  infults  a  Chriftian  of  the 
Latin  Communion,  the  latter  need  but  complain  to  the  firft  Captain  that 
puts  into  that  Port ;  the  Greek  is  fent  for,  taken  up  if  he  refuies  to  pay 
Vol.  I.  T#  obV 


138 


XTVttOfMVIMV 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

obedience,  and  baftinado'd  if  he  has  done  amifs.  The  Captains  put  an  end 
to  Suits  of  Law,  without  Lawyers  or  Attorneys.  The  Evidence  is  carry'd 
on  board  Ship,  and  the  Party  againft  whom  the  Tryal  goes,  is  fentenc'd 
to  make  fatisfa&ion  either  in  Mony  or  dry  Blows :  All  this  is  done  gratis 
by  the  Judges,  without  Fee  or  Reward,  unlefs  perhaps  a  Hogfliead  of 
Wine  or  a  good  fat  Calf. 

W  E  faid  before,  that  the  Bifliop  of  Milo  was  Biihop  of  Siphanto :  he 
has  but  one  Vicar  there,  and  his  Church  is  very  poor.  The  Greek  Arch- 
bilhop  is  rich  ;  for  he  is  Spiritual  Lord  of  the  Ifles  of  Nanfio,  Poticaxdro, 
Nio,  Serf  ho,  My  cone,  Sikino,  Stampalia,  and  Amorgos. 

THE  Ladies  of  Siphanto,  to  preferve  their  Beauty,  when  they're  in 
the  Country,  cover  their  Face  with  Linen  Bandages ;  which  they  roll  fo 
artfully,  that  you  can  fee  nothing  but  their  Mouth,  Nofe,  and  White  of 
their  Eyes.  You  may  be  fure  they  have  no  very  conquering  Air  in  luch 
a  Difguife,  but  rather  look  like  fo  many  walking  Mummies  :  and  accor- 
dingly they  are  more  careful  to  avoid  Strangers,  than  thofe  of  Milo  and 
Argent iere  are  eager  to  meet  them. 

THE  Antiquities  of  the  Ifland  have  met  with  very  ill  Treatment. 
Going  from  the  Port  to  the  Cattle,  near  a  Well  on  the  left  hand  of  the 
Road,  there's  an  antique  Tomb-ftone,  which  ferves  for  a  Hog-trough  \ 
it  is  Marble,  a  noble  Defign,  fix  foot  eight  inches  long,  two  foot  eight 
inches  broad,  two  foot  four  inches  in  height;  it  is  adorn'd  with  Acanthus- 
Leaves,  Pine-Apples,  and  other  Fruit.  Jufl  by  this  Monument  is  ano- 
ther piece  of  Marble  mortis'd  into  the  Wall,  and  which  was  the  Fragment 
of  fbme  other  Tomb-ftone. 

SOME  paces  farther,  at  the  foot  of  a  Hill,  juft  by  the  Ruins  of  an 
eld  Temple,  which  may  have  been  that  of  the  God  Pan,  antiently  ador'd 
in  that  Town,  there's  ftill  to  be  feen  a  Marble  Tomb-ftone  eight  foot 
long,  three  foot  four  inches  deep,  two  foot  eight  inches  broad ;  but  the 
Ornaments  mere  Baubles :  Children  holding  up  Feftoons,  from  whence 
there  hangs  a  huge  Bunch  of  Grapes.  The  Fore-part  of  another  fuch- 
like  Tomb-ftone  is  fix'd  into  the  Front  of  a  Houfe  in  the  principal  Street 
in  the  Burrough  :  this  has  an  Infcription,  but  fo  blind  as  not  to  be  read, 
unlefs  it  be  part  of  a  word,  b  a  2 1  a  e. 

%  AT 


7)efcription  of  the  IJland  ofSiphanto.  139 

AT  the  Monaftery  of  Brici,    contiguous  to  a  fine  Spring,  there's  a  Letter  IV. 
Tomb-ftone  of  Marble,  ferving  to  a  very  different  purpofe  from  that  it  1^-*"v"^» 
was  defign'd  for,  it  being  turn'd  into  a  Ciftern  to  water  Cattel  at :  this 
Tomb-ftone  is  but  three  foot  eight  inches  long ;  but  tho  the  Ornaments 
of  it  are  deftroy'd,  yet  Time  has  fpar'd  the  three  Children  in  the  Fore- 
part, which  Figures  mew  that  the  reft  was  done  by  an  excellent  Hand. 

OVER  the  City-Gate  that  opens  to  the  Port,  are  fbme  Fragments  of 
two  Marble  Figures  of  an  indifferent  Beauty,  one  naked,  the  other  cloth'd. 
At  the  corner  of  a  fort  of  fquare  Tower  on  the  left  hand  of  the  Caftle- 
Gate,  is  a  Bas-Relief  of  Marble,  which  is  taken  to  be  the  Hiftory  of  - 
Tobit :  I  rather  think  it  the  Remainder  of  fome  Tomb-ftone.  In  the  fame 
Wall  there's  the  Head  and  Breaft  of  a  Lion. 

ON  an  o&ogon  Pillar  of  Marble,  near  the  Caftle-Gate,  is  to  be  read 
in  Gothick  Characters,  M  CCC  LXV  MI  SLCE.  Tandoly  de  Coronia. 
This  Lord,  we  were  told  by  the  principal  Men  of  the  Ifland,  was  of  Bo- 
lonia  in  Italy,  Father  to  Otuly  de  Corogna,  who  gave  his  only  Daughter  in 
Marriage  to  Angelo  Gozadini,  Lord  of  Siphanto  and  Thermia.  Siphanto  had 
been  difinembred  from  the  Dutchy  of  Naxos ;  for  'tis  certain  that  Marco  Sa-  Hiftory  of  th<s 
nudo  made  a  Conqueft  of  it,  and  annex'd  it  to  this  Dutchy  under  Henry  II.  5«Afr5!ijc 
Latin  Emperor  of  Confiantinople.  We  faw  at  the  Houfe  of  the  Vicar  of  the 
Latin  Church,  the  Inftrument  by  which  Otuly  de  Corogna  fettled  an  Eftate 
in  1 46  2,  for  the  benefit  of  the  Church  in  the  Caftle.  The  Family  of  the 
Gozadini  were  in  pofieffion  of  Siphanto  till  Barbaroffa  made  himfelf  mafter 
of  it  under  Solyman  II.  This  Family  is  at  prefent  reduc'd  to  three  Bro- 
thers, who  are  confin'd  to  their  Beds  almoft  all  the  Year  round  ;  one  by 
the  Gout,  another  by  a  grievous  Rheumatifm,  and  the  youngeft  by  a 
Palfy.  The  Wife  of  M.  Guidn,  the  French  Conful  at  Siphanto,  is  of  this 
Noble  Family :  this  Conful,  who  is  a  learned  Perfon,  and  fpeaks  many 
Languages,  preferves  the  Seal  of  Angelo  Gozadini}  by  which  it  appears  he 
was  Lord  of  Siphanto  and  Thermia.  He  allured  us,  that  the  publick  Foun- 
tain which  is  at  the  further  end  of  this  Valley  leading  to  the  Port,  was  a 
Work  of  the  remoteft  Antiquity,  and  came  out  of  an  Alley  cut  in  the 
Rock  above  a  mile  deep. 

T  2  BEING 


i 4.0  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Serpho,  tn        BEING  fb  near  the  Ifle  of  Serpbo.  we  had  the  curiofity  to  20  thither* 

■vulgar  Greek.  '  J  ° 

serphanto  tis  but  twelve  miles  from  Srpbanto,  reckoning  from  Cape  to  Cape;  but 
no,  <»  Italian. '^  twice  as  inuch  from  the  Caftle  of  S/phanto,  whence  we  fet  out  the 
TrkmlSme  24ch  ofJuguffj  to  that  of  Serpbo.  '  Pliny  allows  this  Ifland  but  a  Circuit 
of  the  ifle.      of  1 2  miles ;  but  'tis  certainly  36. 

iib"JaP?i2.  THE  Mountains  of  Serpbo  are  fo  rugged  and  fleep,  that  the  Poets 
feign'd  that  Perfetis  transform'd  into  Stone  the  very  Natives  of  the  Place. 
Rer.  Geog.  Strabo  fays,  and  they  who  pleafe  may  believe  it,  that  on  this  Coaft  was 
Apoiio'd.  Bib-  finVd  up  a  Cheft,  wherein  Jcrifius  had  fhut  up  Perfeus  and  his  Mother 
Loth.  1.2.  c.  4.  i)mae^  Polydectes,  who  reign'd  in  this  Ifland,  would  have  oblig'd  him  to 
bus  Perfeus  ait,  marry  her;  and  his  Subje&s  joining  in  the  fame,  Perfeus,  who  had 
ore  Medlfeo  brought  Medufa's  Head  along  with  him,  tum'd  them  into  Stone.  There's 
filicem  fine      great  likelihood  that  the  Iron  and  Load-Hone  Mines  of  this  Ifland  were 

fanguine  fecit.   ° 

ovid.  Metam.  not  known  at  that  time ;  for  otherwiie  they  had  certainly  attributed  the 
Production  of  thefe  likewife  to  the  Power  of  the  Gorgon.     Thefe  Mines 
lie  very  mallow  in  the  Earth ;  they  are  laid  open  every  day  by  the  Rain. 
The  Iron  Mineral  is  feeded  with  Stars  in  feveral  places,  like  the  Regulus 
'  'h  k«**«     StelUtus  of  Antimony.     Thofe  of  the  '  Load-ftone  are  very  plentiful ; 
hLn"  but  if  a  Man  would  have  good  pieces,  he  mud  dig  deep,  which  is  very 

difficult  in  a  Country  where  amidft  Co  much  Iron  they  have  fcarce  Tools 
fit  to  turn  up  the  Onions,  which  they  cultivate  among  their  Rocks  in 
little  moifl  Bottoms  :  thele  Onions  are  very  fweet,  whereas  the  Onions  of 
SiphantOy  which  are  not  water'd,  are  as  four  as  thofe  of  Provence  ;  but  let 
M.  Spon  fay  what  he  will  of  them,  the  Onions  of  the  Levant  are  not 
better  than  fbme  about  Parti.     In  fhort,  the  Inhabitants  of  Serpbo  are  Co 
proud  of  their  Onions,   that  it  never  once  enters  into  their  pates  to 
catch  the  Partridges  that  devour  half  their  Corn  and  Grapes.     There  is 
in  this  Ifland  but  one  Burrough,  that  bears  the  fame  name,  and  a  poor 
•£««»«  n<nt  beggarly  Hamlet   call'd  St.  Nicolp.      The  Burrough  incircles   a  hideous 
^rVcyi?     frightful  Rock,  three  miles  from  the  Port,  which  is  a  very  handfome  one 
Per,p1,  and  ferves  only  for  a  Retreat  to  fuch  Ships  as  happen  to  be  put  out  of 

their  way  by  tempeftuous  Weather :  the  Inhabitants  are  as  arrant  Drones, 
contra  Ceif.  and  as  contemptible  as  their  Forefathers.  Origen  being  minded  to  let 
l  '  Celfus  know  how  ridiculous  it  was  to  reproach  our  Saviour's  Birth,  tells 

*  him; 


Defcription  of  the  I/land  of  Serpho.  141 

him,  that  even  tho  he  had  been  born  in  the  Ifland  of  Seriphus,  even  tho  Letter  IV. 
he  had  been  born  of  the  very  Scum  of  the  Seriphixns,  yet  it  muft  be  ^^ms^m^J 
granted  that  he  made  more  noiie  in  the  World  than  the  Themijlodes's,  the 
Plato's,  the  Pythagoras'' s,  than  the  wifelt  Greeks,  than  their  greateft  Kings 
and  Generals; 

THE  Inhabitants  of  Serpho  pay  but  800  Crowns   to  the  Capitation 
and  Land-Tax :  accordingly  their  Crop  of  Barley  and  Vintage  is  but  fmall. 
The  belt  Lands  belong  to  the  Monks  of  St.  Michael  the  Archangel,  whofe 4™*™  *! 
Convent  is  Northward  near  the  Sea,  within  fight  of  Thermia  and  Serpho-  raijUfjc*- 
poula,  a  bafe  Rock,  where  thefe  Monks  breed  their  Goats  and  Swine, 
under  the  infpecTion  Of  a  Caloyer.     Altho  in  the  vulgar  Greek  the  word 
Poula  fignifies  little,  yet  there's  no  probability  that '  Ovid  and  2  Juvenal '  Te  tame" 6 
meant  Serphopoula,  under  the  name  of  Parva  Seriphus ;   for  this  Rock,  Poiydefta  Se- 
which  is  not  a  mile  in  compafs,  was  never  inhabited.     3  Origen  and  thofe  \b,d.' 
Authors  call  it  Serpho,  a  fmall  Ifland,  became  in  fact  it  is  no  more  than  ' Ut  Gyar* 
36  miles  in  circuit.     Here  it  was  Poly  defies  reign'd ;  and  here  are  flill  to  pamqae.Ie- 
be  feen  thofe  dreadful  Rocks,  on  which  the  Fable  of  Perfeus  was  grounded,  "j^nf*** 

EVE  RY  Inhabitant  of  this  Ifland  is  of  the  Greek  Communion :  the  J  Minima  & 
Cadi  is  itinerant,  as  well  as  h|  of  Stphanto.     The  Waivod  of  Serpho,  a  f2\z^™ 
Turk  of  Negropontus,  to  whom  we  were  recommended  by  M.  Guion,  gave ibid- 
us  a  hearty  Welcome,  and  earneftly  invited  us  to  fee  the  Gretks  dance  at 
la  Madona  de  la  Mafferia,  which  is  the  prettieft  Chappel  in  the  Ifland.    It 
is  certain  the  Greeks  have  not  abfolutely  loft  that  Jocularity,  nor  that 
.Genius  for  Satire,  which  fhone  fo  conlpicuous  in  their  Anceftors  ;  they 
are  every  day  making  very  witty  Ballads :  nor  is  there  any  manner  of 
Pofture  they  do  not  put  themfelves  into,  when  they  dance.     The  Feaft 
feem'd  to  us  to  be  fomewhat  fcandalous,  and  much  more  tedious,  in  re- 
gard it  lafted  all  the  night :  far  from  languifhing  after  the  Fair  Ones  of 
the  Country,  we  were  impatient  to  be  going  to  the  Ifle  of  Thermia,  which 
is  not  above  twelve  miles  from  Serpho  ;  buton  the  morrow  there  role  lb 
flrong  a  Wind  North,  that  we  durft  not  venture  out. 

WE  mull  not  look  for  Antiquities  in  Serpho:  it  is  a  place  that  never 
was  either  powerful  or  magnificent,  tho  its  Port  made  it  recommendable, 
even  in  the  time  when  Greece  was  illuftrious.     According  to  Herodotus,  Lib.  8, 
the  Inhabitants  of  Seriphos,  Siphnos,  and  Melos,  were  the  only  Iflanders 

that 


142  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

that  refiis'd  to  admit  Xerxes^s  Troops  and  Fleet,  when  that  Prince  aiming 
-at  the  Conquefl  of  Greece,  would  fain  have  fecur'd  fuch  as  fided  with  him. 
Herodotus  deduces  the  Miliotes  from  the  Lacedemonians,  and  thofe  of  Siphnos 
and  Seriphos  from  the  Athenians,  who  took  the  name  of  lonians  from  one  of 
their  Generals,  Ion  the  Son  ofXuthus.  After  the  Battel  ofArtemi/ium, where- 
in  'twas  a  meafuring  Call  as  to  the  Advantages  gain'd  either  by  the  Greeks  or 
Per  fans,  the  Athenians  juftly  anxious  for  the  Prefervation  of  their  City,  fent 

I  Colomi.      away  their  Wives  and  Children  into  the  Ifle  of '  Salamis,  and  made  fuch 
ftrenuous  Inftances  to  the  other  People  of  Greece,  that  they  prevail'd  to 
have  a  common  Fleet  afTembled  round  this  Ifland.    The  Inhabitants  of 
Melos  lent  thither  two  Gallies,  thofe  of  Seriphos  and  Siphnos  the  fame. 
THE  Romans  look'd  on  Seriphos  as  a  place  fit  to  make  enormous  Of- 

in  faxo  Sen-    fenders  die  of  the  Spleen.     Augufttts  banifh'd  to  this  place  the  Orator 

phio  confenuit. 

Tacit.  Ub.\.  CaJJius  Severus,  who  could  not  be  cured  of  giving  foul  Language  by 
Annai.  c  21.  feventeen  Years  Banifhment  into  Crete.  Vefitlia  the  Wife  of  Labeon,  con- 
Gr.  &  Lat.  '  vi&ed  of  Adultery,  was  likewife  banifh'd  thither :  and  Stratonicus  found 
£j 15.8'  ,  this  place  fb  very  uneafy,  that  he  one  day  ask'd  his  Hoft,  what  fort  of 
Exii.  Offence  was  punifh'd  with  Banifliment  in  his  Country :  Perjury,  faid  the 

Hoft.     Why  doft  not  thou  forfwear  tia  felf  then,  cry'd  Stratonict/s,  to 
be  difmifs'd  from  this  curfed  place  ? 

THE  greatefl  pleafure  we  took  in  this  Ifland,  was  to  hear  the  Frogs 
Hift.  Nat.  croaking  in  the  Marines  round  the  Port.  Pliny  and  Elian  fay,  they  were 
lib  ^"ap-V-  mute  in  Serphos ;  and  recover'd  their  Voice  again,  if  tranfported  elfewhere : 
this  Race  of  mute  Frogs  muft  needs  be  loft.  Hermolaus  Barbaras  has  re- 
flor'd  the  PafTage  in  Pliny  where  this  Fad  is  reported :  for  in  the  antient 
Copies  it  is  Grafs-hoppers,  not  Frogs.  Theophrajlus,  fays  Elian,  does  not 
pretend  it  was  Jupiter  who  flruck  the  Frogs  of  Seriphos  mute,  at  the  de- 
fire  of  Perfeus,  who  could  not  fleep  for  their  noife :  that  Philofbpher 
refers  the  Caufe  of  it  to  the  Chillnefs  of  the  Water  there.  We  roam'd 
all  about  this  Marfh  in  fearch  of  Plants  ;  and  we  found  the  Water  as  it 
were  lukewarm.  However,  this  falfe  Obfervation  concerning  the  Frogs 
of  Seriphos,  gave  occafion  to  the  Proverb  quoted  by  Stephens  the  Geo- 
grapher and  Suidas,  Such  a,  one  is  a  Frog  of  Seriphos  ;  that  is,  he's  a  Fool, 
and  can't  fpeak. 

NEXT 


/.V.  J . 


3>sij.J4.3 . 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Serpho.  143 

NEXT  to  the  Mines  of  Load-ftone,  the  molt  curious  thing  in  the  Letter  IV* 
Ifle  of  Serpbusy  relating  to  Natural  Hiftory,  is  a  fort  of  Clove- jf7//j-Flower ;  ^"W^ 
the  Trunk  whereof  comes  up  like  a  Shrub,  in  the  Chinks  of  thofe  hor- 
rible Rocks  which  are  above  the  Town.  This  Plant  has  not  chang'd, 
tho  raisM  from  the  Seed,  and  cultivated  in  the  Royal  Garden  at  Taris> 
where  it  maintains  the  Honours  of  Greece,  amidft  an  infinite  number  of 
fcarce  Plants  come  from  the  fame  Country.. ,-. 

ITS  Root  is  thick  as  a  Man's  Thumb,  covered  over  with  a  Bark,  caryophyiiu. 

'  '  Graecus,  arbcr- 

brown,  hard,  ligneous^  divided  into  feveral  other  Roots  ibmewhat  hairy  :  reus,  Leucoii 
it  pafnes  through  the  Chinks  of  the  Rocks  a  crooked  Trunk,  two  foot  £.' cT"u*/. 
high,  about  two  inches  thick,  brittle,  hard,  dingy-colour'd  within,  cloth'd  R»Hfr*-23» 
with  a  Bark  blackifh,  chapt,  rugged,  and  as  it  were  adorn'd  with  fbme 
Ringlets :  this  Trunk  likewife  produces  feveral  Stalks,  all  branchy  and 
brown,  except  towards  the  top,  where  the  young  Buds  are  of  a  fea-green, 
garnifh'd  with  Leaves  of  the  fame  colour,  an  inch  long,  three  or  four 
lines  broad,  obtufe  at  the  point,  oppofite  two  by  two,  brittle,  bufhy, 
bitter  as  Gall.  Thefe  Buds  extend  the  length  of  half  a  foot,  laden  with 
Leaves  like  the  former,  but  narrower,  and  ufually  fupport  a  fingle  Flower, 
fometime*  a  pretty  large  Clutter :  each  Flower  confills  of  five  Leaves,  an 
inch  and  a  half  long,  which  run  not  above  half  an  inch  out  of  the  Cup, 
rounded,  indented  like  a  Cock's  Comb,  giidelin,  ftriped  with  Veins  darker 
towards  their  Bafe,  the  other  Stripes  a  deep  purple.  The  Tail  of  thefe 
Leaves  is  narrow,  white,  and  inclos'd  in  the  Cup :  this  Cup  is  a  Pipe 
an  inch  long,  a  line  in  diameter,  fbmewhat  puffy  toward  the  bottom, 
where  it  is  accompany'd  wish  another  Cup,  with  many  Scales  pointed, 
and  lying  one  on  another :  from  the  bottom  of  the  grand  Cup  rife  flender 
white  Threds  or  Chieves,  each  charg'd  with  a  gridelin  Summit.  The 
Piftile  or  Pointal  is  but  five  lines  long,  cylindrical,  pale  green,  terminating 
in  two  white  Horns,  which  mrmount  the  Threds.  When  the  Flower  is 
gone,  this  Piftile  becomes  a  fort  of  Cod  or  Shell,  reddiih  when  'tis  ripe, 
fwelling  toward  the  middle  ;  at  the  point  it  opens  into  five  parts,  and  dif- 
plays  the  Seeds ;  black,  flat,  flender,  white  within,  fome  oval,  others  cir- 
cular, faften'd  to  finall  Threds,  which  from  the  Body  of  the  Placenta 
convey  to  them  the  nutritious  Juice. 

I  am.  My  Lord,  &c. 

LET- 


(  H4-  ) 


LETTE  R    V. 

To  Monfeigneur  the  Count  de  Pontchartrain, 
Secretary  of  State,  &c. 

My  Lord, 
Dcfcriftion  of  M^Ma,  H  O  Auturnn  is  a  very  agreeable  Seafon  in  the  Jichipelaeo,  yet 

the  I/lands  of    ipHZnlSS      ,        „,  ,.,,.-  n.     r        ■>*  f 

Amiparos,  Pa- fsf'-T  p  the  Sky,  which  began  to  be  overcalt,  ieemd  to  threaten  us 
NaxiaT^        fatllll  witn  Storms  and  Tempefts  ;  which  were  what  we  fear'd  more 
than  any  other  Adventure  whatever  :  and  as  Storms  do  general- 
ly^ follow  the  Change  of  Seafons,  the  Apprehenfion  of  the  Rains  which 
conftantly  fall  in  the  Levant  ax.  the  beginning  of  September,  put  us  upon 
making  more  difpatch  than  we  mould  have  done  at  another  time.     Our 
Defign  was,  if  pofllble,  to  fee  the  whole  Archipelago  ;  and  fince  our  De- 
parture from  Candia,  we  had  as  yet  been  at  no  more  than  four  Iflands  of 
it.     We  let  out  therefore  from  Serpbo  for  Siphanto,  and  embark'd  for  the 
Ifland  A/itiparos,  which  is  eighteen  miles  diflant  from  it. 
Aktiparos.    -  '--A  NT1PA  ROS  -isa  Rock  about  fixteen  miles  in  circuit,  flat,  well- 
stfph^02'     cultivated,  and  produces  as  much  Barley  as  ferves  fixty  or  feventy  Fami- 
fiAEApos,    lies,  inhabiting  a  fbrry  Village  a  mile  from  the  Sea,  who  pay  700  Crowns 
Oliaros,      for  their  Land-Tax,  and  500  Crowns  Capitation,  tho  all  their  Trade  lies 
in  a  little  Wine  and  Cotton.     Every  Year  they  chufe  two  Confuls,  fbme- 
timesbutone,  who  has  ten  Crowns  for  taking  care  of  the  Affairs  of  the 
Ifland.     In  Spiritual  Matters,  it  depends  upon  the  Greek  Archbifhop  of 
Aaxia ;  but  he  has  very  bad  Parifhioners,  for  the  greateft  part  of  the  In- 
habitants of  the  Ifland  are  French  and  Maltefe  Corlairs,  \vfho  are  neither 
Greeks  nor  Latins. 

THE 


Defcription  of  the  Ijland  of  Antiparos.  14.5 

THE  beft  Eftate  in  the  Ifland  belongs  to  the  Monaftery  of  Brici  at  Letter  V. 
Siphanto,  which  fends  two  Caloyers  to  gather  in  the  Harveft :  it  brought  "^^v***-* 
in  a  confiderable  Revenue,  before  the  Venetians  burnt  its  Olive-Trees  ;  but 
they  did  not  fpare  the  very  Joyfts  of  the  Houles  in  thofe  places  where 
their  Fleet  winter'd  during  the  Candian  War.  As  to  Good  Cheer,  the 
People  know  not  what  it  means,  except  in  Fifli ;  for  Butchers  Meat  is 
often  impofiible  to  be  had:  they  have  neither  Hares  nor  Partridges,  but 
only  Rabbits  and  wild  Pigeons.  The  Confirmation  was  fo  great  there 
when  we  arrived,  that  they  had  not  left  fo  much  as  a  Table-Cloth  or  a 
Napkin  in  their  Houfes  •  but  had  buryM  every  thing  in  the  Fields  at  fight 
of  the  Turktflf  Army,  which  was  exa&ing  the  Capitation.  It  mud  be 
confefs'd,  the  Cudgel  of  the  Turks  has  very  great  Vertues,  the  whole  -**«  Falaque. 
Ifland  trembles  at  the  lead  mention  of  the  Baftinade  :  the  Beft  among  them 
dare  not  mew  themfelves  but  in  the  moft  humble  pofture,  their  Heads 
cover'd  with  a  dirty  Cap ;  and  moft  of  them,  to  avoid  fo  great  a  fhame, 
hide  themfelves  in  Caves.  The  Turks,  who  fufpect  that  the  moft  valuable 
of  their  Goods  are  conceal'd,  baftinade  the  Officers  that  are  upon  Duty, 
and  this  Ceremony  continues  till  their  Wives  have  brought  out  their  own 
Ornaments  and  thofe  of  their  Neighbours.  We  may  eafily  conceive  what 
Lamentations  attend  thefe  Proceedings  :  oftentimes  the  Turks,  after 
having  feiz'd  all  their  Jewels  and  other  Finery,  will  throw  the  Husbands, 
Wives,  and  Children  into  Irons. 

THE  Port  of  Antiparos  is  navigable  only  for  frnall  Barks  and  Tar- 
tanes ;  but  in  the  middle  of  the  Canal,  between  this  Ifland  and  that  of 
Paros,  there  is  depth  for  the  biggeft  Veffels :  this  Canal,  which  is  no  more 
than  a  mile  broad  between"  the  Rocks  ofStrongilo  and  Defpotico,  which  are 
fituated  a  little  on  one  fide  of  its  Opening,  is  full  of  other  fmall  Rocks 
that  have  no  names. 

THIS  Ifland,  as  defpicable  as  it  appears,  has  in  it  one  of  the  greateft 
Rarities  that  perhaps  is  in  Nature,  and  which  proves  one  of  the  impoxrant 
Truths  of  Philofophy,  to  wit,  the  Vegetation  of  Stones.  We  were  re- 
folv'd  to  be  fatisfy'd  ocularly  of  it,  and  therefore  went  to  the  fpot,  that 
we  might  be  able  to  philofophize  thereon  with  greater  certainty.  Thi 
admirable  place  is  four  miles  from  the  Village,  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
Vol.  I.  U  from 


ia.6  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

from  the  Sea,  in  fight  of  the  Iflauds  Nio,  Sikino,  and  Policandro,  which 
are  but  35  or  40  miles  diftant. 

A  ROUGH  Cavern  is  the  firft  Object  that  offers  it  felf  to  you, 
about  thirty  paces  broad,  vaulted  in  a  kind  of  Arch,  and  inclofed  with 
a  Court  made  by  the  Shepherds :  this  place  is  divided  into  two  by  fbme 
natural  Pillars,  on  the  biggeft  whereof,  which  looks  like  a  Tower  fix'd 
into  the  top  of  the  Cavern,  there  is  feen  an  Infcription  very  antient  and 
very  broken :  it  mentions  fome  proper  Names,  which  the  Natives,  by  I 
know  not  what  Tradition,  fuppofe  to  be  the  Names  of  the  Confpirators 
againft  Alexander  the  Great ;  who  after  having  faiPd  in  their  Defign,  took 
refuge  in  this  place,  .as  the  lafeft  they  could  think  of. 

AMONG  thefe  Names,  there  is  only  that  of  Antipater  that  can  fa- 
Bibiioth.  Hift.  your  the  Tradition  of  the  Greeks :  for  Diodorus  Siculus  relates,  that  fome 

«b.  17. 

Hiftorians  accufed  Antipater  of  Alexander's  Death.  Every  body  knows 
that  that  Prince  left  Antipater  Regent  in  Europe,  when  he  fet  out  for  the 
Conqueft  of  Perfia ;  but  that  Minifler,  enraged  at  the  ill  Offices  done  him 
by  Olympias  with  his- Mafter,  was  fufpected  of  having  caus'd  him  to  be  poi- 
fbn'd  by  his  Son,  who  was  one  of  the  King's  Cup-bearers:  however  whether 
that  Sufpicion  was  well  or  ill  grounded,  Diodorus  takes  notice  that  Anti- 
pater neverthelefs  retain'd  part  of  his  Authority  after  Alexanders  Death : 
fo  far  was  he  from  having  occafion  to  fly  to  this  Ifland  for  Concealment. 

W  E  could  read  only  part  of  the  Infcription ;  but  it  was  communicated 
to  us  quite  intire  by  a  Citizen  of  the  place,  who  keeps  a  Copy  of  it : 
he  affiired  us,  that  it  had  been  decypher'd  by  a  more  learned  Man  than  us, 
who  pafs'd  through  Antiparos  fome  years  fince.  Thefe  are  the  Contents 
of  the  Infcription : 

Enl  UNDER 

kpitcnos  The  Magiftracy  of  Crito, 
oiAEHAeoN  Game  to  this  place, 

MENANAPOS  Menander, 

SOxapmos  Socarmus, 

Menekaths  Menecrates, 


ANTiriATpos  Antipater, 

in  n  o  m  h  a  n  n  Ippomedon, 


Arifteas, 


Tkfcription  of  the  I/land  of  Antiparos. 


API2TEAS 

ArifleaSy 

*  IAE  AS 

Phileafy 

ropros 

GorgtUj 

Al  OTENH2 

Diogenes^ 

*I AOKPAT H2 

Philocrates, 

ONES  I MOS 

Onejimus. 

PERHAPS  they  are  the  Names  of  the  Inhabitants  of  the  Ifland, 
who  in  the  Magiftracy  of  Crito  were  the  firft  that  ventured  to  delcend 
into  the  Grotto,  to  take  a  view  of  it; 

BENEATH  this  Infcription  is  a  long  fquarifh  hole,  in  which  was 
formerly  flx'd  a  piece  of  Marble  that  now  lies  not  far  from  it,  but  which 
is  not  very  antient,  as  appears  by  a  Figure  of  the  Crofs :  'tis  a  BafTb- 
Relievo  done  in  the  time  of  the  Chriftians,  fb  ill  handled,  that  you  can 
make  nothing  of  it ;  and  if  we  may  judge  by  Appearances,  it  was  never 
thought  worth  carrying  away.  On  the  left  hand,  at  the  bottom  of  a 
Rock  cut  into  an  inclining  Plain,  is  to  be  feen  another  Greek  Infcription 
more  worn  than  the  former. 

BETWEEN  the  two  Pillars  that  are  on  the  right  hand,  is  a  little 
Platform  gently  Hoping,  feparated  from  the  innermofl  part  of  the  Cavern 
by  a  low  Wall :  in  this  place  was  graved  fome  years  ago,  at  the  foot  of 
a  Rock  that  is  pretty  flat,  the  following  words  : 

HOC  ANTRUM  EX  NATUR/E  MIRACULIS  RA- 
RISSIMUM  UNA  CUM  COMITATU  RECESSIBUS 
EJUSDEM  PROFUNDIORIBUS  ET  ABDITIORIBUS 
PENETRATIS  SUS  PICIEB  AT  ET  SATIS  SUSPICI 
NON  POSSE  EXISTIMABAT  CAR.  FRAN.  OLIER 
DE  NOINTEL  IMP.  GALLIARUM  LEGATUS.  DIE 
NAT.  CHR.  QJJO  CONSECRATUM  FUIT.  AN. 
MDC  LXXIII. 

YOU  afterwards  go  forward  to  the  bottom  of  the  Cavern  by  a 
greater  Defcent  of  about  twenty  paces  long  :  this  is  the  PafTage  into  the 
Grotto,  and  this  PafTage  is  only  a  very  dark  Hole,  in  which  you  cannot 
walk  upright,  nor  without  the  help  of  Torches.     Firft,  you  go  down  a 

U  2  frightful 


14.8  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant 

frightful  Precipice  by  means  of  a  Rope,  which  you  take  care  to  fatten  at 
the  very  Entrance.  From  the  bottom  of  this  Precipice  you  Hide  down 
into  another  much  more  terrible,  the  fides  very  flippery,  and  deep  Abyf- 
les  on  the  left  hand :  they  place  a  Ladder  afide  of  thefe  Abyffes,  and  by 
its  means  we  tremblingly  got  down  a  Rock  that  was  perfectly  perpendi- 
cular. We  continu'd  to  make  our  way  through  places  fbmewhat  lefs 
dangerous  ;  but  when  we  thought  our  felves  upon  flue  ground,  the  mod 
frightful  Leap  of  all  flopt  us  fliort,  and  we  had  infallibly  broken  our  necks, 
had  we  not  had  notice,  and  been  kept  back  by  our  Guides.  There  is 
ftill  the  Remains  of  a  Ladder,  which  M.  de  Nointd  had  placed  there : 
but  as  it  is  noW  grown  rotten,  our  Guides  had  taken  care  to  bring  ano- 
ther brand-new.  To  get  down  here,  we  were  forced  to  flide  on  our  backs 
along  a  great  Rock ;  and  without  the  aiTIftance  of  another  Rope,  we  had 
fallen  down  into  horrible  Quagmires. 

WHEN  we  were  come  to  the  bottom  of  the  Ladder,  we  again  rolled 
for  fbme  time  over  Rocks,  fometimes  on  our  backs,  fometimes  on  01 
bellies,  according  as  we  found  moft  eafe ;  and  after  all  thefe  Fatigues,  we  at 
length  enter'd  into  that  admirable  Grotto,  which  M.  de  Nointel  had  juft  rea- 
fon  to  fay  he  could  never  fufficiently  admire.     The  People  that  conductec 
us,  reckonM  it  1 50  fathom  deep  from  the  Cavern  to  the  Altar  mark'd  A.  anc 
as  many  more  from  that  Altar  to  the  deepeft  place  you  can  go  down  into. 
The  bottom  of  this  Grotto   on  the  left   hand  is  very  rugged :  on  the 
right  it  is  pretty  even,  and  this  way  it  is  that  you  go  to  the  Altar.     Fror 
this  place  the  Grotto  appears  to  be  about  forty  fathom  high,  and  fiftj 
broad :  the  Roof  of  it  is   a  pretty  good  Arch,  in  feveral  places  rifins 
out  into  large  round  knobs,    fome  bridling  with  points  like  the  Bol 
of  Jupiter,    others  regularly  dinted,    from  whence  hang  Grapes,    Fei- 
toons,  and  Lances  of  afurprizing  length.     On  the  right  and  left  arena 
tural  Curtains,  that  ftretch  out  every  way,  and  form  on  the  fides  a  fbi 
of  channelPd  Spires  or  Towers,  for  the  moft  part  hollow,  like  fb  man] 
little  Clofets  all  round  the  Grotto.     Among  thefe  Cabinets,  one  large 
Pavilion  (B)  is  particularly  diftinguifhable  ;  it  is  form'd  by  Productions 
that  fo  exactly  reprefent  the  Roots,   Branches,    and  Heads  of  Colly- 
Flowers,  that  one  would  think  Nature  meant  by  this  to  mew  us  how  fhe 
operates  in  the  Vegetation  of  Stones.     All  thefe  Figures  are  of  white 

Marble 


i49 

Letter  V; 


• 


r 


Defcription  of  the  Ifland  of  Antiparos.  149 

Marble,  traofoarent,  chryftalliz'd,  and  generally  break  aflant  and  in  difre-   Letter  Vl 
rent  Beds,  like  the  Judaick  Stone.     Moft  of  thefe  pieces  even  are  cover'd 
with  a  white  Bark,  and  being  ftricken  upon,  will  found  like  Copper. 

ON  the  left,  a  little  beyond  the  Entry  (C)  of  the  Grotto,  rile  three 
or  four  Pillars  (D)  or  Columns  of  Marble,  planted  like  Stumps  of  Trees 
on  the  tuft  of  a  little  Rock.  The  higheft  of  thefe  Stumps  is  fix  foot 
eight  inches,  and  one  foot  diameter,  almoft  cylindrical,  and  of  equal 
thickneis,  except  in  fome  places,  where  it  is  as  it  were  wavy  ;  it  is 
rounded  at  the  top,  and  Hands  in  the  middle  of  the  others.  The  firft  of 
thefe  Pillars  is  double,  and  nor  above  four  foot  high.  There  are  on  the 
fame  Rock  fome  other  budding  Pillars,  that  look  like  the  Stumps  of 
Horns;  I  examin'd  one  which  was  pretty  large,  and  that  probably  might 
be  broken  in  1A.de  NointePs  time:  it  exactly  represents  the  Stump  of  a. 
Tree  cut  down  \  the  middle,  which  is  like  the  ligneous  Body  of  the  Tree, 
is  a  brown  Marble  approaching  to  an  iron-grey,  about  three  inches  broad, 
furrounded  by  divers  Circles  of  different  colours,  or  rather  by  fo  many 
old  Saps,  diftinguifh'd  from  each  other  by  fix  eoncentrick  Circles,  about 
two  or  three  lines  thick,  whofe  Fibres  run  from  the  Center  to  the  Circum- 
ference. Thefe  Stems  of  Marble  muft  certainly  vegetate ;  for  befides  that 
not  one  fingle  Drop  of  Water  ever  falls  into  this  place,  it  would  not  be 
conceivable,  if  they  did,  how  a  few  Drops  falling  from  a  height  of  25  or  50 
fathom,  could  form  cylindrical  pieces,  terminating  like  round  Caps,  and 
always  of  the  fame  regularity  :  a  Drop  of  Water  would  much  rather  diili- 
pate  in  the  fall ;  it  is  certain  that  none  diftils  through  into  this  Grotto,  as 
it  does  into  common  fubterranean  Cavities.  All  that  we  could  find  here 
of  this  nature,  was  fbme  few  indented  Sheets  of  Stone,  the  points  of 
which  let  fall  a  pearly  Drop  of  Water  very  clear  and  very  infipid,  which 
no  doubt  was  forin'd  by  the  Humidity  of  the  Air,  which  in  fuch  a  place 
mufl  condenfe  into  Water,  as  it  does  in  Apartments  lined  with  Marble. 

IN  the furthermoft  part  of  the  Grotto  to  the  left,  appears  a  Pyramid 
much  more  furprizing,  which  ever  fince  M.  de  Nointel  caus'd  Mafs  to  be 
celebrated  here  in  167  j,  has  been  calfd  the  Altar  (A).  This  piece  ftands 
by  it  felf,  quite  feparate  from  the  reft ;  it  is  24  foot  high,  fomewhat  like 
a  Tiara,  adornM  with  feveral  Chapiters  fluted  length-ways,  and  fuftain'd 
on  their  feet,  of  a  dazling  whitenefs,  as  is  all  the  reft  of  the  Grotto. 

This 


i£o  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

This  Pyramid  is  perhaps  the  fined  Plant  of  Marble  that  is  in  the  world: 
the  Ornaments  with  which  it  is  cover'd,  are  all  in  the  fhape  of  Colly- 
flowers  ;  that  is  to  lay,  terminating  in  large  Bunches,  more  mafterly  de- 
fcribed  than  if  a  Sculptor  had  juft  given  them  the  finifhing  Touch.  Once 
again  I  repeat  it,  'tis  impoilible  this  fhould  be  done  by  the  Droppings  of 
Water,  as  is  pretended  by  thofe  who  go  about  to  explain  the  Formation 
of  Congelations  in  Grottos.  It  is  much  more  probable,  that  thefe  other 
Congelations  we  fpeak  of,  and  which  hang  downwards,  or  rife  out  diffe- 
rent ways,  were  produced  by  our  Principle,  namely,  Vegetation. 

AT  the  foot  of  the  Altar  are  two  Half-Columns,  on  which  we  placed 
Flambeaux  to  illuminate  the  Grotto,  that  we  might  view  it  more  nar- 
rowly. M.  de  Nointel  caus'd  them  to  be  broken  ofTJ  toferveas  a  Table 
for  the  Celebration  of  midnight  Mafe.  Upon  the  Balls  of  the  Pyramid, 
the  following  Words  were  carv'd  by  his  Order : 

HIC    IPSE    CHRISTUS    ADFUIT 
EJUS  NATALI  DIE  MEDIA  NOCTE  CELEBRATO 

M  D  C  L  X  X 1 1 1. 

I N  order  to  go  round  the  Pyramid,  you  pals  under  a  great  Mafs  or 
Cabinet  of  Congelations,  the  backfide  of  which  is  hollow  like  the  Roof 
of  an  Oven :  the  Door  into  it  is  low ;  but  the  Drapery  of  the  fides  is 
Tapeftry  of  great  beauty,  whiter  than  Alablafler :  we  broke  off  fome 
bits  of  it,  and  the  infide  look'd  like  candy'd  Lemon-peel.  From  the 
top  of  the  Roof,  juft  over  the  Pyramid,  hang  Feftoons  of  an  extraordi- 
nary length,  which  form  as  it  were  the  Attick  of  the  Altar. 

MONSIEUR  theMarquifs^  Nointel,  AmbalTador  of  France  to  the 
Porte,  pafs'd  the  three  Chrifimas  Holydays  in  this  Grotto,  accompany'd 
by  above  five  hundred  Perfons,  as  well  his  own  Domefticks,  as  Merchants, 
Corfairs,  or  Natives,  that  were  curious  to  follow  him.  A  hundred  large 
Torches  of  yellow  Wax,  and  four  hundred  Lamps  that  burnt  night  and 
day  were  fb  well  placed,  that  no  Church  was  ever  better  illuminated. 
Men  were  pofled  from  fpace  to  fpace,  in  every  Precipice  from  the  Altar 
to  the  opening  (C)  of  the  Cavern,  who  gave  the  fignal  with  their  Hand- 
kerchiefs, when  the  Body  of  J.  C.  was  lifted  up;  at  this  fignal  fire  was 

put 


Defcription  of  the  I/land  of  Antiparos.  1 5 1 

put  to  24  Drakes,  and  to  feveral  Patcreroes  that  were  at  the  Entrance  of  Letter  V. 
the  Cavern:  the  Trumpets,  Hautbois,  Fifes,  and  Violins,  made  the  Con-v">" 
fecration  yet  more  magnificent.  The  Ambaflador  lay  in  the  night  almoft 
oppofite  to  the  Altar,  in  a  Cabinet  feven  or  eight  foot  long,  naturally  cut 
in  one  of  thofe  large  Spires  which  we  mentiou'd  before.  On  one  fide  of 
this  Spire  is  a  hole  that  is  an  Entrance  into  another  Cavern,  but  no  body* 
durft  go  down  into  it. 

THEY  were  very  much  perplex'd  to  bring  Water  from  the  Village  to 
ferve  fo  many  People.     The  Capuchins,  that  were  his  Excellency's  Chap- 
lains, were  not  in  pofTeflion  of  the  Rod  of  Mofes.     After  much  fearching 
they  found  a  Spring  to  the  left  of  the  Afcent ;  it  is  a  little  Cavern,  in  the- 
hollow  of  the  Rock,  that  ferves  as  a  Receptacle  to  the  Water. 

M.  DE  NOINTEL  was  the  Man  that  renew'd  the  Memory  of  this 
Grotto.  The  Natives  themfelves  durft  not  go  down  into  it  before  he 
came  to  Antiparos ;  he  encouraged  them  by  LargefTes.  The  Corfairs  of- 
fer'd  to  accompany  any  that  would  ihew  them  the  way :  thole  Gentlemen 
thought  nothing  difficult  that  might  be  a  means  of  making  their  court  to 
his  Excellency,  who  was  a  pailionate  Lover  of  luch  Curiofities,  and  elpe- 
cially  of  any  thing  antique.  Perhaps  upon  the  credit  of  the  Infcription' 
we  have  inferted  above,  he  imagin'd  lome  precious  Monument  might  be 
found  there.  He  carry'd  with  him  two  very  skilful  Draughts-men,  and 
three  or  four  Mafons  with  Utenfils  that  would  loofen  and  lift  away  the- 
moft  lumberfbme  pieces  of  Marble.  Never  did  AmbaiTador  return  from, 
the  Levant  with  fo  many  fine  things :  and  by  good-fortune  molt  of  thele 
pieces  of  Marble  are  in  the  hands  of  M.  Baudelot  of  the  Academy  Royal 
of  Infcriptions  and  Medals ;  they  were  referv'd  for  a  Perfon  of  his  Merit. 

I  HAVE  but  one  word  more  to  fay  of  the  Grotto  of  Antipater ;  fo 
they  call  a  little  Cavern,  into  which  you  enter  by  a  fquare  Window  open 
at  the  hindermoft  part  of  that  Cavern,  which  ferves  as  a  Veftibulum  to 
the  great  Grotto.  That  of  Antipater  is  all  lined  with  Marble  chryftalliz'd 
and  fluted ;  it  is  a  kind  of  Parlour  of  the  fame  Floor  with  its  Opening, 
and  would  be  extremely  agreeable  to  a  Man  that  had  not  been  dazzled 
with  the  Miracles  that  are  in  the  large  Grotto. 

THE  top  of  the  Mountain  where  thele  Grottos  are,  is  as  it  were 
paved  with    traniparent    Chryftallizations,    like    common    Talc ;  bur 

*  which 


i  £2  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

which  always  break  into  Lozenges  or  Cubes :  and  I  fancy  thefe  Chryftal- 
lizations  are  Symptoms  of  fubterranean  Grottos.  I  have  feen  the  like  at 
Candia  upon  Mount  Ida,  and  at  Marfei/ks  at  St.  Michael  D'Eau  Donee. 
From  the  Ridges  of  the  Cavern  of  Jnt /faros  hang  fome  Roots  of  that 

Capparis  n°n  fine  Caper-Tree  without  Thorns,  whofe  Fruit  they  candy  in  the  Iflands. 

ma^ore.  c.  b.  The  reft  of  the  Mountain  is  fpread  with  Cretan  Thyme,  falfe  Dittany, 

pin.ito.  Cedars  with  Cyprefs-Tree  Leaves,  Lentifques,  Squills :  all  thefe  Plants 
are  common  over  the  Iflands  of  Greece,  and  Jntiparos  would  not  be  worth 
vifiting,  were  it  not  for  this  charming  Grotto. 

W  E  crofs'd  the  Canal  that  runs  between  Jntiparos   and  Paros,  with 

LabeJi.  a  South-Weft  Wind,  that  blew  in  our  poop,  and  carry'd  us  fix  miles 
in  lefs  than  an  hour's  time  :  for  tho  the  Canal  is  not  above  a  mile  broad, 
it  is  reckon'd  fix  or  leven  from  the  Port  of  Jntiparos  to  that  of  Faros. 
This  Diftance  fatisfy'd  us  that  Jntiparos  is  the  Ifland  which  the  Antients 
knew  by  the  name  of  Oliaros :  there  is  no  room  for  doubting  it,  from  a 
Paflage  which  Stephens  the  Geographer  has  preferv'd  to  us,  of  the  Treatife 
of  the  Iflands  by  Htraclides  Ponticus,  who  makes  Oliaros  to  be  a  Colony 

ivin  ftad.  0f  Sidonians,  and  places  that  Ifland  about  feven  miles  from  Paros ;  which 
agrees  exactly  with  the  Length  of  our  Paflage.  Our  Boat  was  bravely 
tofs'd  about,  and  the  Rain,  which  fell  in  fheets,  wetted  us  to  fbme  pur- 
pofe :  it  was  the  laft  Day  of  JuguH,  and  the  firft  time  we  had  feen  it 
rain  in  the  Jrchipelago. 

nAPOS.         WE  landed  the  fecond  of  September  at  the  Gate  of  theCaftle  of'P*- 
v  ar°s! '  h  rechia,  the  chief  Town  in  the  Ifland  Paros,  built  on  the  Ruins  of  the 
the  Franks.     antient  and  famous  Paros,  which,  according  to  Stephens  the  Geographer, 
was  the  biggeft  and  moft  potent  of  the  Cyclades.     When  the  Perfians,  by 
order  of  Darius,  crofs'd  over  into  Europe  to  make  war  on  the  Jthenians, 
jierod.  lib.  6.  Ptros  fided  with  the  Jftaticks,  whom  fhe  affifted  with  Troops  for  the 
Battel  of  Marathon.    Mtltiades,  laden  with  Glory  after  that  great  Day, 
obtain'd  of  the  Jthenians  a  ftrong  Fleet,  and  aflured  them,  without  de- 
claring for  what  purpofe  he  defign'd  it,  that  he  would  carry  their  Army 
into  a  Country  where  it  Ihould  win  great  Riches  without  much  trouble, 
com.  Nepos   Payos  was  befieged  by  Land  and  Sea :  the  Inhabitants  feeing  their  Walls 
&  Miiuad.      ja.j  iQ  j^jfl^  defired  to  capitulate ;  but  perceiving  a  great  Fire  on  the  fide 

of 


Description  of  the  Ijland  of  Paros.  153 

of '  Mycone,  they  imagin'd  it  to  be  the  Signal  of  fome  approaching  Sue-  Letter  V. 

cour,  fent  them  by  Datis  one  of  the  Perfian  Generals ;  whereupon  they  ^steph!~^ 

would  not  any  more  hearken  to  Capitulation  :  and  this  gave  occafion  to 

the  Proverb,  To  keep  one's  Word,  after  the  Parian  manner.     Miltiades,  who  kvttm&l- 

ivas  in  apprehenfion  of  the  Enemy's  Fleet,  burnt  all  his  Machines,  and 

retired  haftily  to  Athens. 

HERODOTVS,  who  defcribes  this  very  carefully,  far  from  faying  iWd. 
:hat  the  Befieged  were  inclined  to  capitulate,  relates,  that  Miltiades  de- 
pairing  to  carry  the  Place,  confulted  Timon,  a  Prieftefs  of  the  Country, 
yho  advifed  him  to  perform  fome  fecret  Ceremony  in  the  Temple  of 
Zeres  near  the  City.     That  General  follow'd  her  Counfel  ;  but  endea- 
vouring to  leap  over  the  Inclofure  of  the  Temple,  he  broke  his  Leg.    In 
ill  probability  the  Ceremony  did  not  fucceed ;  he  was  obliged  to  raife  the 
Jiege ;  the  Senate  condemned  him  to  pay  the  Charges  of  the  Expedition : 
le  was  thrown  into  Prifbn  till  he  mould  pay  the  Debt,  and  there  he  died 
)f  his  Wounds.    This  Siege  was  very  glorious  to  the  Parians,  notwith- 
Unding  they  were  reckon'd  People  without  Faith  for  their  behaviour  in 
r ;  for  Miltiades,  who  had  been  unable  to  fiibdue  it,  was  the  greater!:  Sol- 
der of  his  Age.     After  the  Battel  of  Salamin,  Themifiocles,  tho  buiy'd  in  Herod,  lib.  S. 
he  Siege  of  Andros,  rais'd  Contributions  upon  Paros,  and  made  it  tribu- 
ary  to  Athens,  becaufe  itjbad  favoured  the  Afiaticks  more  than  any  other  of 
be  Iflands.    This  is  what  is  to  be  found  of  moft  certainty  in  the  Greek 
liftory  relating  to  the  Ifland  of  Paros.     If  we  go  back  beyond  the  Power 
f  the  Athenians,  we  fhall  even  then  meet  with  fbraething  confiderable  of 
bis  Ifland ;  and  this  would  give  occafion  to  fpeak  of  the  different  Matters 
hat  pofTefs'd  thefe  famous  Cyclades,  among  which,  Paros  was  not  the  leaft 
onfiderable. 
PERHAPS  Sefofiris,  that  great  King  of  Egypt,  who  call'd  himfelf8"*^  Bal- 
ing of  Kings  and  Lord  of  Lords,  receiv'd  the  Submiffion  of  Paros,  as*tntZmr 
'ell  as  of  moft  of  the  reft  of  the  Cyclades,  that  is  to  fay,  of  fome  other  ££.  Sttoth. 
lands  of  the  Archipelago  that  lie  almoft  in  a  Circle  round  the  famous  Hift-lib«I« 
)elos.    The  Phenicians  muft  have  poflefs'd  thefe  Iflands,  fince  they  were  Thucyd.  lib.i. 
le  firft  Matters  of  the  Grecian  Sea ;  but  it  is  no  eafy  matter  to  reconcile 
hucydides  and  Diodorus  Sicultts,  about  the  time  when  the  Carians  fettled  Biblioth.  Hift. 
1  thefe  Iflands.    Thucydides  pretends  that  Minos  drove  thofe  People  out  ' 
Vol.  I.  X  of 


_  ^4.  A  V6  y  a  g  e  into  the  Levant. 

of  them  ;  and  Diodorus  on  the  contrary  advances,  that  they  did  not  fa 
much  as  go  thither  till  after  xhzTrojan  War,  and  that  they  forced  the  Cre- 
tans to  leave  them.  Stephens  the  Geographer  affirms,  that  the  Arcadians 
mix'd  with  the  Cretans,  and  gave  the  name  of  one  of  their  Generals, 
calFd  Par  os,  to  the  Ifland  we  are  now  fpeaking  of;  for  before,  it  went  by 

H;ft.  Nat.       that  of  Minos,  as  Pliny  obferves. 

HwLh?«b  £      ACCORDING  to  Apollodorus,  it  was  in  this  Ifland  that  Minos  learnt 

"P-  J4.  the  Death  of  his  Son  Androgen,  who  was  kill'd  in  Attica,  where  he  had 
diftinguifh'd  himielf  at  the  publick  Games.  That  unhappy  Father,  who 
was  then  facrificing  to  the  Graces  at  Paros,  was  fo  ftruck  with  Grief,  that 
he  threw  his  Garland  to  the  Earth,  and  would  not  play  on  the  Flute. 

idem  Biblioth.  Eurydemon,  Chryfes,  Nephaliom,  and  Philolaut,  other  Children  of  Minoti, 
were  retired  to  Paros,  when  Hercules  pafe'd  through  it  to  go  in  queft 
of  the  Girdle  of  Hypolita,  Queen  of  the  Amazons,  by  order  of  £a- 
ryftheti-s.  I 

I T  is  alfo  certain,  that  Paros  did  not  refufe  the  Propofals  of  Xerxes 
Son  of  Darim,  when  that  Prince  demanded  of  the  Grecian  Iflands  Earth 
and  Water ;  fincc  of  all  the  Iflanders,  there  were  only  the  Inhabitants  of 

Herod.  lib.  8.  Melos,  Siphnos,  and  Seriphos,  that  would  Hot  grant  him  his  Demand.  The 
Inhabitants  of  the  other  Iflands  deferted  the  Athenians,  and  did  not  own 

Biblioth.  Hift.  their  Sovereignty  till  after  the  Storm  was  blown  over.     Diodorus  Sicalns 
1  '  ie>'         remarks,  that  they  were  plunder'd,  in  fpite  of  the  Athenian  Fleet  appointed 
to  defend  them  from  the  Infults  of  Alexander  Tyrant  of  Phenea,  who  fur- 
prized  and  routed  that  Armament. 

IT  appears  by  that  famous  Monument  of  Adtd 'as,  Co  exactly  defcribed 
Topogr.chrif-  by  Cofmos  of  Egypt,  and  fo  well  ilruftrated  by  the  R.  F.  Dom  Bernard  de 
tian.deMuodo,  -^ontjaucon-j  tnat-  tne  Cyclades,   and  confequently  Paros,  were  under  the 

dominion  of  the  Ptolemies,  Kings  of  Egypt :  for  that  Monument,  which 
is  of  the  time  of  Ptolemy  Evergetes,  the  third  of  the  Name,  makes  mention 
of  thofe  Iflands.  •  From  the  dominion  of  the  Egyptians,  if  fell  again  into 
De  Bello  Mi-  that  of  the  Athenians.  Mithridates  for  a  little  while  was  Matter  of  the  Cy- 
clades \  but  being  forc'd  to  givC  way  to  the  Good-fortune  of  Sylla,  to  the 
Valour  of  LucvHu-s,  and  to  the  Greatnefs  of  Pompey,  as  "Florin  expreffes  it 
he  retired  towards  the  North.  The  Romans  continif  d  quiet  PolTefTors  oJ 
Athens  and  the  ArclJipel.tgo,  the  Iflands  of  which  were  erected  into  a  Pro- 

1     vince 


Defcription  of  the  I/land  of  Paros.  155 

vince,  With  Lydia,  Phrygia,  and  Carta.     This  Province  was  afterwards  Letter  V. 
under  a  Proconful,  together  with  the  Hellefpont  and  Afia  Minor.  *-^v^V> 

THE  Greek  Emperors  in  their  turn  were  Mailers  of  the  Archipelago, 
till  Marco  Sanudo,  a  Noble  Venetian,  was  made  Duke  of  Naxia  by  Henry       1 207, 
Emperor  of  Conflantinople.     This  new  Duke  united  Paros,  and  ievcral 
other  neighbouring  Iflands,  to  Naxos.     Paros  was  difmembred  from  it  bv  ^''J01')'  °f  ^e 

00  *    Dukes  of  the 

Florentia  Sanudo,  Dutchefs  of  the  Archipelago,  who  gave  it  as  a  Portion  Archipelago, 
to  Mary  her  only  Daughter,  the  Wife  of  Gafpar  de  Scmmerive :  this  was  a  Summaripa. 
^reat  Lord,  who  afterwards  juftly  pretended  to   the  whole  Dutchy  of 
Naxos  ;  but  he  was  obliged  to  take  up  with  Paros,  being  unable  to  refill 
Francis  Crifpo,  who  having  caus'd  Nicholas  Carcerio  to  be  aflaflinated,  en" 
ter'd  into  pofleflion  of  the  reft  of  the  Dutchy. 

SOME  Years  after,  Paros  came  into  the  Muftrious  Family  of  Veniert 
by  the  Marriage  of  Francis  Venter,  a  Noble  Venetian,  with  Florentia  de  Som- 
fnerive,  eldeft  Sifter  to  Courftn  de  Sommerive,  to  whom  ihe  was  fole  Heireis. 
Francis  Venier  was  Grandfather  of  that  famous  Venter  who  yielded  the  Iiland 
of  Paros  toBarbarojfa,  Captain-Baihaw  under  SolymanW.  only  becaufe  he  was 
utterly  deftitute  of  Water  ztKjphalo  in  Fort  St.  Anthony.  Leunclivius  makes  supplem. 
mention  of  a  Greek  call'd  James  Heraclides  and  Bafilicus,  who  deduced  him-  Anna1, 
felf  from  the  Princes  of  Wallachia,  and  bore  the  Title  of  Marquils  of  Paros. 
The  Wallachians  put  him  to  death  in  1563  ;  but  it  is  not  probable  he  ever 
was  in  pofTeflion  of  that  Iiland,  in  regard  theTarks  took  it  from  the  Venetians, 

A  S  to  the  Caftle  of  Paros,  or  Parichia,  its  Walls  are  built  of  nothing  but 
antient  pieces  of  Marble.  Moil:  of  the  Columns  are  placed  in  it  long-wile, 
and  Ihew  only  their  Diameter :  fome  of  thofe  that  ftand  upwards,  fupport 
Corniches  of  an  amazing  bignefs.  On  whatever  fide  you  caft  your  eyes, 
you  lee  nothing  but  Architraves  or  Pedeftals,  mingled  with  great  pieces 
of  Marble,  that  were  formerly  employ'd  in  nobler  Works.  ■  To  make  the 
Door  of  a  Stable,  which  ufually  ferves  for  that  of  the  whole  Houfe,  they 
fet  up  two  Ends  of  Corniches,  the  Moldings  of  which  are  admirable: 
a-crols  thefe  they  lay  a  Column  to  iervc  for  a  Lintel,  without  much 
minding  whether  'tis  placed  according  to  Rule,  and  level,  or  no.  The 
Natives,  who  find  this  Marble  ready  cut  to  their  hands,  put  it  together  as 
well  as  they  can,  and  oftentimes  whiten  it  with  Lime.  As  for  Infcrip- 
tions,  they  are  not  hard  to  be  met  with  round  the  Town ;  but  they  are 

♦X  2  fo 


itfi 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 


fo  mauled,  that  you  can  make  nothing  of  them.    The  French,  Venetians 
and  Englijb,  have  carry'd  away  the  beft,  and  they  every  day  break  to  bits 
the  fineft  pieces  that  they  find,  for  the  inclofure  of  their  Fields;  Frizes* 
Altars,  Bafio-Relievos,  nothing  can  efcape  the  Ignorance  of  the  Greeks, 
Wretched  Cutters  of  Saltfellers  and  Mortars  are  all  you  can  find  here,  in 

US nSs.  c^e  room  of  t^10^e  §reat  SculPtors  aiK*  skilful  Architects,  who  formerly 
rUn.Htfi.Nau  made  the  Marble  of  this  Ifland  more  famous  than  that  of  the  neighbour- 
'  ing  Iflands ;  for  this  beautiful  fort  of  Stone  is  no  lefs  common  at  Naxos 
and  at  Tinos,  but  they  wanted  Men  of  Skill  to  work  upon  it,  and  bring, 
it  into  repute. 

THEY  carry'd  us  three  miles  from  the  Caftle  to  fee  fome  antient 

Quarries,  where  there  is  nothing  left  but  a  few  Trenches  all  covef  d  witl* 

broken  Bits  and  Rubhiih  of  Stone,  as  frefh  as  if  they  had  been  lately 

work'd  in  :  Mandrake  and  falfe  Dittany  grow  plenty  about  them.     The 

Lapis  Lychni-  moft  antient  Quarries  are  a  mile  from  thence,  above  the  Mill  belonging 

kcemasTcu-  ro  fhe  Monaftery  of  St.  Minos.    In  one  of  thofe  Quarries  is  an  antique 

niculis  oedere-  Bafib-Relievo,  wrought  upon  the  Marble  it  felf,  which  in  that  place  lies 

ttir.  Plm.   lib.  i  '  r 

36.  cap.  5.  naturally  almoft  perpendicular  at  the  bottom  of  a  great  Cavern  that 
*j£"  *&•  now  is  ufedfor  a  Sheep-fold,  from  whence  it  is  probable  they  got  this  fine 
Deipn.  lib.  5.  Marble  by  the  Light  of  Lamps.  There  is  great  likelihood  that  the 
SfctrxHy  Mountain  where  this  Cavern  Hands,  is  Mount  Marfefus,.  mention'd  by 
V'jfJSufc  *#M*wi  and  Stephens  the.  Geographer. 

Marpefos  mons     THIS  BafTb-Relievo  is  four  foot  long,  and  its  higbeft  part  is  two  foot 
fuiar.3"*^    five  inches;  the  bottom  of  it  is  cut  level,  the  top  is  pretty  irregular,  be* 
i».  j£»tid.e.  caufe  the  Performer  fitted  it  to  the  Figure  of  the  Rock.     Tho  this  Work 
has  been  very  ill  handled  by  Time,  it  neverthelefs  appears  to  be  a  kind 
of  Bacchanal,  or  if  you  will  a  Country-Wedding,   containing  twenty 
nine  Figures  tolerably  well  defign'd,  but  ill  put  together.    Gf  twenty  of 
thefe  Figures,  which  are  upon  a  line,  the  fix  biggeft  are  feventeen  inches 
tall ;  they  reprefent  Nymphs  dancing  a  fort  of  Brawl :  there  is  another 
fitting  on  the  left  hand,  that  feems  to  draw  back,  tho  prefsM  to  dance. 
Among  thefe  Figures  appears  the  Head  of  a  Satyr  with  a  long  Beard,  that 
laughs  till  his  fides  crack.     On  the  right  are  placed  twelve  fmaller  Figures, 
which  feem  to  come  only  to  be  Spectators.     Bacchus  fits  quite  o'  top  of  the 
Baflb-Relievo,  with  AiTes  Ears,  and  a  huge  gundy  Gut,  furrounded  with  Fi- 
gures 


Defer iption  of  the  Ifland  of  Paros.  1 57 

gures  in  (everal  Attitudes ;  they  all  feem  perfectly  merry,  efpecially  a  Letter  V. 
Satyr  that  ftands  in  the  front,  with  Ears  and  Horns  like  a  Bull.     The  ^'^r^-' 
Heads  of  this  Piece  were  never  finifhM :  'twas  a  Whim  of  fome  Carverr 
who  diverted  himfelf  with  loading  his  Marble,  and  who  wrote  at  the 
bottom  of  his  BafTo-Relievo, 

A  A  A  m  a  2 

O  A  P  T  2  H  S- 

NTM4AIS. 

AdamaS  Odryfes  reared  this  Monument  to  the  Girls  of  the  Country.    An- 
ciently the  Ladies  call'd  themfelves  Nymphs,  as  Diodorus  Siculus  informs  *jj*"*'  HHfc 
U9  ;  and  Bart  bias  proves  pretty  plain,  that  this  Name  was  peculiarly  ap-  Aiiimad.  ad 
ply'd  to  thofe  that  were  not  marry'di  ,at#  part  2" 

IN  a  word,  the  Marble  of  this  Ifland  grew  fb  famous,  that  the  beft  °mnes  "■Jf 

7  a  '  tantum  candi- 

Carvers  ufed  no  other.     Strabo  had  reafon  to  fay,  that  it  is  an  excellent  d°  marmore 
Stone  for  Statues  ;  and  Pliny  tells  us,  that  it  was  lent  for  from  Egypt,  to  infuia.  piin. 
adorn  the  Frontifpiece  of  that  celebrated  Labyrinth,  which  was  counted  ^\s"'ap  fc 
one  of  the  Wonders  of  the  World.    As  to  Statues,  the  beft  Judges  agree,  Asfo  ©g?v 
that  the  Italian  Marble  is  preferable  to  the  Grecian.     Pliny  juftly  affirms*  y«ffiffi§£ 
that  that  of  '  Luna  is  much  whiter.     The  Grecian  Marble  has  a  large  ~* llb* IO* 
chryftalline  Grain,  that  gives  falfe  Lights,  and  flies  in  little  bits,  if  not  The  f&rrm 
cautioufly  managed ;  whereas  that  of  Italy  obeys  the  Chizzel,  being  of  a  caaa!mi* 
much  finer,  and  clofer  Grain*-  'W*'  »•  *«; 

THE  Quarry  of  Marble  that  is  in  Provence  between  Marfeilles  and 
les  Pennesy  feems  to  be  of  the  fame  Grain  with  the  Grecian  Marble  :  per- 
haps it  would  be  fbfter,  if  they  dug  to  a  certain  depth.  There  is  alfb 
found  in  thofe  parts  a  very  hard  Stone  like  Porphyry,  but  the  Spots  of  it 
are  pale  ;  the  only  way  to  know  the  Beauties  of  thefe  Quarries,,  is  to 
©pen  them.  Who  would  ever  have  thought,  that  a  Reprefentation  of  .In  v*™ma>. 
Silenus  would  be  found  in  thofe  of  Parosr  had  they  not  gone  very  deep  rabifc  prod.tur 
to  difcover  that  Miracle  I  E&Sk 

AFTER  vifiting  thefe  Quarries,  we  went  to  fee  the  principal  parts  of  ^^nt.ium . 
die  Ifland    Ther&  ftill  remains  at  Naufa  or  Jgoufa  a  ruinated  Fort  built  nen»  siieniin- 
in  the  Sea,  on  the  Remains  of  which  are  to  be  feen  the  Arms  of  Venice  :  pfiS^^toi 
the  other  chief  Villages  are  Coftou,  LephcbU^  Marmara,  Chepidc,  and  Dra-l,b'i>  *&*• 

goula-. . 


crnl 


r-58  A  Voyage  into  rf>e  Levant 

goal  a.  Thefe  three  laft  Villages  are  at  Kjphalo,  a  part  of  the  Ifland  very 
^-^  weli  known  by  means  of  Fort  6>.  Anthony,  which  Barbarojfa  had  not  con- 
quer'd,  but  that  the  Soldiers  in  it  died  of  Third.  Venter,  the  Lord  of 
the  Ifland,  who  defended  it  fo  vigoroufly,  got  away  to  Venice,  whither  he 
had  before  lent  his  Wife  and  Children.  The  Fort  AS  demolifh'd,  and  no- 
thing is  left  but  the  Monaftery  of  St.  Anthony.  At  prefent  they  make 
ufe  of  the  Marble  dug  from  the  Quarries  of  that  part  of  the  Ifland,  and 
efpecially  from  thofe  of  Marmara,  whence  they  carry  it  in  Boats  to  Pa- 
rechia  ;  whereas  that  of  the  antient  Quarries  can  go  thither  only  by  Land- 
Carriage,  which  is  very  fcarce  in  the  Illands. 
iSttSte;  PL1NT  very  well  fixes  the  Bignefs  of  the  Ifland  Pares,  in  faying  it 

'  is  but  half  as  large  as  Naaos,  which  he  reckons  75  miles  round:  by  this 
Reckoning,  Pwmuft  be  but  36  or  37,  the  uiual  Meafure  of  the  Na- 
tives. They  fuppofe  it  to  contain  about  1500  Families,  commonly. tax'd 
at  4500  CrownsvCapitation  ;  but  in  1700,  they  forced  them  to  pay  6000; 
and  7000  for  the  Land-Tax.  Indeed  this  Ifland  is  well  cultivated  ;  they 
feed  abundance  of  Flocks :  tlieir  Trade  confifts  in  Corn,  Barley,  Wine 
Pulfe,  Sefamum,  Calicoes.     Before   the  Candian  War,   they  gather'd  a 

v  great  deal  of  Oil  ;  but  x\\zVenetian  Army  burnt  all  the  Olive-Trees  of 
Paros,  in  nine  or  ten  Years  that  it  continu'd  there.  This  Ifland  is  fo  well 
ftock'd  with  Partridges  and  wild  Pigeons,  that  we  bought  three  Partridges 
and  two  Wood-Pigeons  for  eighteen  Pence.  Their  Butchers-Meat  is  good, 
and  they  do  not  want  for  Hogs  :  they  have  here,  as  in  the  reft  of  the 
.Broufims.  Iflands,  excellent  little '  Mutton,  which  they  feed  in  their  Houfes  with 
Bread  and  Fruits.  Their  Melons  are  -  perfectly  delicious;  but  they  have 
no  opportunity  of  eating  them  when  the  Turkiflj  Army  is  among  them: 
for  they  in  a  few  days  confume  all  the  Fruits  of  the  Archipelago-. 

AT  Paros  we  faw  it  rain  for  the  firft  time  fince  We  left  France.  The 
Earth  was  fo  parch'd,  that  it  required  a  little  Deluge  to  allay  its  Thirft. 
The  Cotton,  the  Vines,  and  the  Fig-trees  would  be  quite  burnt  up,  were 
it  not  for  the  Dews,  which  are  fo  abundant,  that  our  great  Coats  were 
dripping  wet  with  them,  when  we  lay  in  the  Fields,  or  in  Boats,  which  we 
were  often  drove  to  do,  in  pafling  from  one  Ifland  to  another.  To  fet 
out  in  a  Calm,  won't  fave  you  :  as  they  have  no  Compaft,  you  are  forced 
to  put  in  at  the  firft  Lee-fhore,  when  a  brisk  Gale  begins  to  blow. 

THE 


Beftripthn  of  the  IJland  of  Paros.  159 

THE  Cadi,  the  Confnls  of  Frhtifi  England,  and  Holland,   refide  at  Letter  V' 
Parechia,  where  two  Confuls  are  chofen  every  year  :  the  Office  of  Cadi,L^^r^J 
and  that  of  Vaivode,  when  we  were  there,  were  exercis'd  by  Conflantachi  Thi%^t2'>'. 
Condili,  the  richeft  Greek   in   the  Ifland,  Brother  of  Miquelachi  CondilL^K  Dimi- 

_       ,.  ,       _  _,  .  ,        r-  t-.i  «       r->       1  trachi    Nicola- 

Coniul  of  France  :  it  is  a  mark  of  great  Elegance  among  the  Greeks,  to  chi,  Gourjachi, 
have  their  Names  terminate  in  acbi.     They  lay,  Confidntacbi,  Miquelachi  pi^1™"^* 
Janacbi,  inftead  of  Conftantine,  Michael,  "John  ;  and  in  this  Ifland  they  Franc.fcachi . ; 
[peak  with  more  propriety  than  in  the  rcll  of  the  Archipelago.  ter,  Anthony, 

THE  Inhabitants  of  Pares  have  always  been   accounted  People  oT Nicholas  ' 
good  Senfe,  and  the  Greeks  of  the  neighbouring  Iflands  often  make  them  ^en^phuf' 
Arbitrators  of  their  Diiputes.     This  puts  me  in  mind  of  the  Choice  the  Francis. 
MdcCians  formerly  made  of  lome  wife  Parians,  to  put  their  City,  which  H«od.  iib^„ 
was  ruin'd  by  Parties,  into   a  Form  of  Government :  thofe  Parians  re- 
Tiew'd  the  Country  of  Miletus,  and  named  to  the  Magiftracy  thofe  whole 
Lands  were  bed  cultivated ;  realbnably  concluding,  that  they  who  took 
due  care  of  their  own  Eftates,  would  not  neglect  the  Affairs  of  the 
Publick. 

ST.  MARTS  is  the  belt  Port  in  the  Ifland;  the  greateft  Fleet  may 
anchor  there  with  fafety,  and  more  conveniently  than  in  that  of  Agou- 
fa,  which  is  clofe  to  ir.     The  Port  of  Parechia  is   fit  only  for  Small- 
Craft  :  they  have  a  mighty  efteem  for  that  of  Drio,  where  the  Turkip  or  Tieou, 
Fleet  generally  cafts  anchor.     The  Road  of  Drio,  which  is  on  the  Weftern 
part  of  the  Ifland,  leaves  Naxia  to  the  Eafl,  and  Aio  to  the  South.     The 
mod  Eafterly  of  the  two  Rocks  that  lie  in  the  middle  of  this  Road,  is 
not  above  500  paces  long,  and  the  other  is  almofl  Soo  :  here  the  Fleets 
have  good  Mooring,  and  the  South-Weft  is  the  Wind  that  blows  into  the 
Road.     Oppofite  to  this  latter  Rock,  in  a  Plain  at  the  foot  of  a  little 
Hill,  runs  a  fine  Stream,  iffuing  from  four  Springs  not  above  eight  or  ten 
paces  one  from  the  other  '.  thefe  Springs  firft  form  a  little  Stream  divided 
into  three  Gutters,  where  the  Turks  have  within   thefe  few  years  cut 
Cifterns  for  Bathing  and  making  their  Ablutions ;  thefe  Gutters  run  down 
into  the  Sea,  and  when  the  Ships  water,  they  flow  into  the  Casks  in  the 
Boats,   by  means  of  Pipes  made  of  boil'd  Leather^  which   they'  call 
Hand-Leathers.  :      ' 

T  H  E 


i6o  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant 

THE  Panagia  or  Madona,  which  (lands  out  of  the  City  of  Parechia, 
is  the  largelt  and  handfomeft  Church  in  the  Archipelago :  this  is  no  very 
great  Commendation ;  its  Light  is  good,  and  the  Arches  of  the  Roofs  are 
tolerably  beautiful :  but  as  the  Columns  were  taken  out  of  the  Ruins  of 
the  City,  and  are  of  different  Orders  and  Models  ;  the  whole  is  fad- 
ly  miiinatched.  The  great  Dome  on  the  outfide  has  the  form  of  the 
Helm  of  a  Lembick  :  the  Sculpture  of  the  Frontifpiece  is  execrable, 
and  the  Painting  of  the  Choir  very  coarfe.  The  Greeks  call  this  Church 
Kcmm\Uvn-  Catapoliani.  It  is  not  at  all  probable,  that  it  was  built  upon  the  Ruins  of 
Ad  Ann.  902.  that  magnificent  Church  dedicated  to  the  Virgin,  defcribed  by  Earonius. 
That  was  in  the  midfl  of  a  great  Foreft,  which  was  the  Retreat  of  St.  The- 
otfifta,  the  Patronefs  of  the  Ifland ;  and  Catapoliani  is  at  the  Gate  of  Pa- 
rechia, that  is,  of  the  antient  City  of  Paros,  on  the  Sea-fhore. 

THE  Convent  of  French  Capuchins,  which  is  on  the  right  hand  as 
you  go  to  this  Church,  is  very  well  built ;  its  Church  is  pretty,  and  its 
Garden  agreeable  :  there  are  but  two  Fathers  in  it,  who  live  upon  Alms, 
and  teach  Greek  and  Italian.  It  is  the  Rendevouz  and  Comfort  of  the 
Latins,  who  are  but  very  few  in  this  Ifland. 

AMO  NG  the  Chappels  in  the  Town,  St.  Helena's  is  much  efteem'd : 
indeed  it  is  a  very  great  pity,  that  the  Parian  Marble,  formerly  lb  great 
an  Ornament  to  Greece,  ihould  be  fo  ill  apply 'd.  Nothing  can  be  more 
ridiculous  than  to  fee  poor  Plates  of  Earthen  Ware  inchafed  in  that  beau- 
tiful Stone,  inftead  of  Sculpture,  to  adorn  the  Frontifpieces  of  their  Chap- 
pels  :  'tis  like  letting  a  Flint  Stone  in  Gold.  They  reckon  no  lefs  than 
fixteen  Monasteries  in  Paros,  viz. 

S  T.  Minas  the  Martyr,  the  biggeft  Convent  in  the  Ifland,  tho  it  has  but 
rwo  Caloyers ;  'w@J  mhmcs. 

ST.  Michael  the  Archangel,  'a>ws  T«|/a^x«. 

THE  Convent  of  the  Apofiles,  'Ayloi  AirozoKot. 

OV  R  Lady  of  the  Lake,  nxvxyia,  AxyoyzcfySb. 

ST.  John  the  Rainy,  'Ayios  iaavvus  Kaugex*- 

ST.  George  of  the  Goofeberries,  a  Fruit  pretty  rare  in  the  Eaft  ;  'a>*os 

TlbpyvK  Mt<>8^, 

ST.  Andrew,  'a}«>s  Av/g&xs. 
ST*  Anthony,  \ym  avt&vi'os. 
•  ,  *  THE 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Paros.  161 

THE  Holy  Solitude,  '*yx  mo'vh.  Letter  V- 

0  V  R  Lady  of  all  Forejight,  nxvxylx  2£K«?i«v»f.  s-T^T^t 

ST.  John  Adrian,   Ay/05  icdvm  a«A?<«»/. 

ST.  Cyriac,  or  St.  Dominic,   AyiosKvewnds. 

ST.  John  of  the  Seven  Fountains,  ' Ayict  iaxm$  yiafyiom. 

OVR  Lady  of  the  Vnrvholefome  Place,  navayia  tottxqxvcl. 

ST.  Noirmantinus,  the  Hermit  of  Mount  Sinai,  Ay/os  Ka^A&g^. 

THE  Monafiery  of  Chrift,  'o  x?isfc. 

'  ARCH1LOCHVS,  the  famous  Author  of  Iambick  Verfes,  diftiu- ' Suab- *er- 

Geog.  lib.  10. 

guifh'd  himfelf  among  the  Great  Men  of  Paros.     Horace  was  in  the  right  Archiiochum 
to  fay  that  Rage  infpired  that  Poet :  his  Verfes  were  fo  biting,  that  Ly-  l^°t  [f^s 
ca-mbas,  his  Antagonift,  was  fiich  a  Fool  as  to  hang  himfelf  for  defpair.  bo-  H°ra*.  d* 
Archilochus  lived  in  the  time  of  Gyges  King  of  Lydia,  and  was  Cotempo-  TinftaLycam- 
rary  with  Romulus.  be.°  fanSuine 

J  _  tela  madent. 

W  E  are  at  a  lofs  for  the  Name  of  an  excellent  Man  of  that  Ifland,  0*  m  Am. 
who  was  the  Author  of  the  nobleft  Monument  of  Chronology  that  is  in  Herod*  lib-  '• 
the  World,  which  is  now  to  be  feen  in  the  Sheldonian  Theatre  at  Oxford : 
upon  this  piece  of  Marble,  which  M.  de  Peirefc  purchas'd  in  the  Levant,  Gaffend.  in 
with  feveral  others,  that  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Earl  of  Arundel,  are  via  Eeuefc' 
engraved  the  moit  noted  Greek  Epochas  from  the  Reign  of  Cecrops,  the 
Founder  of  the  Athenian  Monarchy,  to  Diognetes  the  Magiftrate  ;  that  is 
to  fay,  the  Courfe  of  1 3 1 8  Years.     Bifliop  Vjher  believes  that  this  Chro- 
nology was  written  26  3  Years  before  Chrift. 

THIS  Marble,  which  could  not  be  corrupted  like  a  Manufcript,  in  - 
forms  us  of  the  Time  of  the  Foundation  of  the  moft  famous  Cities  of 
Greece,  and  the  Age  of  the  greateft  Men  that  were  Ornaments  of  that 
Nation.  For  inflance,  by  this  we  know  that  Hefwd  lived  27  Years  be- 
fore Homer,  and  that  Sappho  wrote  not  till  about  200  Years  after  that 
Poet.  Thefe  Marbles  fix  the  Magistrates  of  Athens,  and  are  of  vaft  help  'o  va«^>v. 
to  us  in  the  Wars  of  thole  Times :  but  this  is  not  a  proper  place  to  enter 
into  thefe  Particulars  •  it  is  our  bufinefs  now  to  relate  our  PafTage  into  the 
Ifland  of  Naxia,  known  to  the  Antients  by  the  Name  of  Naxos. 

W  E  arrived  there  the  feventh  of  September,  in  lefs  than  two  hours  ;Naxia, 
for  the  PafTage  from  Port  Agoufa  {which  is  at  the  North  Point  of  Paros)  n  a  x  v  »/ 
Vol.  I.  Y  is 


J  62 


Hift.  Nat. 
lib.  4.  cap.  1 2 


De  Excidio 
Theflalon. 

Ann.  904. 


Bomdi<ious. 


Diod.  Sicul. 
Biblioth.  Hift. 
lib.  3. 


*  Mogts. 

•  Siroc. 

\ 


4  Voyage, 
Tom.  3. 

5  Lib.  6. 


'  Geoig.  Syn- 
tell.   2i/JjuA- 
>,cf,  in  eadem 
cella  liabitans. 
Ajftftant  of  the 
Patriarch, 


A  Vo  y  a  g  e  into  the  Levant. 

is  but  nine  miles  over,  and  the  Canal,  in  a  diredfc  line,  is  but  fix  miles  broad : 
fo  that  Vliny  has  very  well  fettled  the  diilance  between  thefe  two  Iflands  at 
7  miles  500  paces.  Naxia  is  a  Corruption  of  Naxos :  every  body  knows 
that  the  Greek  Tongue  has  undergone  great  Changes  in  the  Decadence  of 
the  Empire.  The  word  Naxia  is  to  be  found  in  John  Cameniatas,  who 
wrote  of  the  taking  of  Tkejfalonica  by  the  Saracens :  he  was  taken  and 
carry 'd  to  C  audi  a  with  the  other  Slaves.  The  Fleet  of  the  Saracens  r  in 
which  they  were,  anchor'd  at  Naxia,  fays  he,  to  exacl:  the  accuftom'd 
Tribute ;  but  it  fufFer'd  very  much  in  the  Port  of  the  '  Fifhpond,  which  is 
now  calPd  the  Port  of  the  Saltpits,  to  the  right  of  the  Gate  of  the  Caftle. 
They  (till  catch  abundance  of  Mullets  and  Eels  in  this  Port,  by  means 
of  certain  Hurdles  of  Reeds  faften'd  together :  thefe  Hurdles  fold  like 
our  Skreens,  and  are  fo  order'd,  that  the  Fifh  which  get  into  them  at 
holes  left  on  purpofe,  cannot  difengage  themfelves.  They  make  ufe  of 
Machines  like  thefe,  but  much  bigger  and  better-contriv'd,  in  the  Canal 
of  Martigues  in  Provence :  the  Invention  is  very  antient.  The  hhthyo- 
pbagi  of  Babylonia  apply'd  themfelves  to  this  kind  of  Fifhing,  and  without 
trouble  caught  more  Fifh  than  they  knew  how  to  diipofe  of.  Thefe 
Hurdles  laft  a  long  while,  and  are  very  portable,  like  thofe  which  we  ufe 
as  Pens  for  Sheep. 

THE  Fifhery  of  Naxia,  the  Cuftoms,  and  the  Saltpits  of  the  Towr%  j 
arefarm'd  but  at  800  Crowns:  accordingly  you  may  have  twelve  or  fif- 
teen Meafures  of  Salt  for  a  Crown,  and  each  '  Meafure  weighs  1 20  French 
Pounds.  The  Port  of  the  Saltpits  is  not  fit  for  large  VefTels,  no  more  than  1 
the  other  Ports  of  the  Ifland,  which  are  all  open  tothe  North  ox'  Soutb- 
Eaff. :  their  Names  are  Calados,  Panormo,  St.JohnTriangata,  Filolimnarez 
Potamides,  and  Jpol/ona,  which  perhaps  retains  that  Name  from  the  Tei 
pie  of  Apollo,  which  the  Athenians  built  at  the  point  of  Naxos,  oppofite 
to  the  Ifland  of  Delos.  We  muft  have  a  care  not  to  confound  the  IflanC 
of  Naxos,  as 4  M.  Spon  has  done,  with  a  Town  of  the  fame  Name  in  &• 
cilj ;  where,  according  to  s  Tbucjdides,  the  People  of  the  Ifland  Eubau 
rais'd  an  Altar  to  Apollo. 

NAXOS,  tho  without  Ports,  was  a  very  flourifhing 6  Republick,  anc 
commanded  the  Sea,  at  the  time  when  the  Perjians  pafs'd  into  the  Archi- 
pelago.    It  is  true,  they  were  in  pofTeffion  of  the  Iflands  of  Paros 

Andres 


Defer  ipt  ion  of  the  Ijland  of  Naxia.  1 63 

Andros,  whofe  Ports  are  excellent  for  the  Reception  and  Entertainment  Letter  V. 
of  the  greatefl  Fleets.  '  Ariftagoras,  Governour  of  Miletus  in  Ionia,  laid  ■^HirodT^^ 
a  defign  to  furprize  Naxos,  under  pretence  of  reiloring  the  greatefl:  Lords 

I  in  the  Ifland,  who  being  driven  out  by  the  Populace,  had  taken  refuge 
with  him.  Darius  King  of  Per  fa  furnifh'd  him  not  only  with  Troops 
for  landing,  but  alfo  with  a  Fleet  of  two  hundred  Ships.  The  Naxiotes 
being  fecretly  forewarn'd  by  Magabates,  the  General  of  the  Per  fans,  with 
whom  Arijlagoras  happen'd  to  fall  out,  prepared  a  warm  Reception  for 
him.  He  was  forced  to  draw  ofT,  after  a  Siege  of  four  months :  and  all 
the  Service  he  could  do  the  Iflanders  that  had  retired  to  Miletus,  was  to 
obtain  leave  to  build  them  a  Town  at  Naxos,  to  cover  them  from  the 

;  Infults  of  the  People. 

THE  Per  fans made  a  fecond  Defcent  upon  this  Ifland,  when  they  ra- 

•  vaged  the  Archipelago.     '  Datis  and  Artapbemes  meeting  with  no  refiftauce,  *  Heiod.  lib.6. 

'  burnt  the  very  Temples,  and  carry'd  off  a  vaft  number  of  Prilbners. 
Naxos  recover'd  it  felf  from  this  Lois,  and ;  fent  four  Ships  of  War  to  that '  i<km>  l»M. 
powerful  Grecian  Fleet,  which  beat  that  of  Xerxes  at 4  Salamin,  in  the  ♦  colouri. 
Gulph  of  Athens.  The  Remembrance  of  the  Mifchiefs  the  Per  fans  had 
done  to  Naxos,  and  the  Fear  of  provoking  them  to  new  ones,  obliged  the 
People  to  declare  for  the  Afiaiicks :  but  the  Officers  of  the  Ifland  were  of 
a  contrary  Opinion,  and  carry'd  the  Ships  which  they  commanded,  to 
join  the  Grecian  Fleet,  by  order  of  Democritus,  the  moil  potent  of  the 
Citizens  of  Naxos.     Diodorus  Siculus  informs  us,   that  the  Naxiotes  gave  BibHoth- Hift- 

lib.  *\ 

great  proofs  of  Valour  at  the  Battel  of  Platea,  where  Mardonius,  another 
Per  fan  General,    was   defeated  by  Paufanias.      Mean  while  the  Allies  Thucyd.  lib.  i." 
having  given  the  Command  of  the  Army  to  the  Athenians,  thefe  latter 
declared  War  againil  the  Naxiotes,  to  puniih  the  Favourers  of  the  Per  fans. 
The  City  therefore  was  befieged,  and  forced  to  capitulate  with  its  primi- 
tive Mailers  ;  for  Herodotus,  who  places  Naxos  ■  in  the  Diftrict  of  Ionia,  Lib-  7- 
and  calls  it  the  happiefl  of  Iflands,  makes  it  an  Athenian  Colony ;  and  re-  fowvmftf 
lates  that  Piftfiratus  had  in  his  turn  been  in  pofleflion  of  it.  '  ™™v-  Herod- 

THESE  are  the  moil  remarkable  Events  that  happen'd  to  the  Ifland  Wem,  lib.  r. 
of  Naxos  in  the  polite  Times  of  Greece.     If  we  fearch  into  remoter  Anti- 
quity, we  find  in  Diodorus  Siculus  and  Paufanias  the  Origin  of  the  firil  Diod.  sic.  Bib* 
People  that  fettled  there.     Butes,   the  Son  of  Boreas  King  of  Thrace,  Vmh' Hirt' :" 

Y  2  having 


164. 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 


having  attempted  to  furprize  his  Brother  Ljcurgus  in  an  Ambufh,  was  by 
his  Father's  Order  obliged  to  leave  the  Country  with  his  Accomplices: 

2TP01TT-  their  Good-fortune  brought  them  to  the  Round  Ifland,  for  lb  they  named 
this  we  are  now  (peaking  of.  As  the  Thracians  found  in  it  few  or  no  Wo- 
men, and  moil  of  the  Iflands  of  the  Archipelago  uninhabited,  they  made 
(bme  Irruptions  upon  the  Continent,  whence  they  brought  off  Women, 
among  whom  was  Iphimedia  the  Wife  of  King  Aloeus,  and  his  Daughter 
Pancratis.  That  King  enraged  at  fuch  an  Injury,  commanded  his  Sons 
Otus  and  Ephialtes  to  revenge  him  :  they  beat  the  Thracians,  and  made 
themlelves  mailers  of  the  Round  Ifland,  which  they  named  Dia.    Thefe 

ljb.9.  Princes  lbme  time  afterwards  kiJl'd  each  other  in  Combat,  as  Paufanias 

lays  ;  or  were  kill'd  by  Apollo,  according  to  Homer  and  Pindar  :  thus  the 
Thracians  remairfd  quiet  PoflelTors  of  the  Iiland,  till  a  great  Drowth  con- 
flrain'd  them  to  leave  it,  above  two  hundred  Years  after  their  Settlement. 

awbton*^  It  was  afterwards  held  by  the  Carians ;  and  their  King  Naxios  or  Naxos. 

»«.  steph.  according  to  Stephens  the  Geographer,  gave  it  his  own  Name.  He  was 
fiicceeded  by  his  Son  Leucippus,  the  Father  of  Smardius,  in  whole  Reign 
Thefeus  returning  from  Crete  with  Ariadne,  landed  in  the  Ifland,  where  he 
left  his  Miftrefs  to  Bacchus,  whofe  Menaces  had  terribly  frighten'd  him  in 
a  Dream. 

THE  Inhabitants  of  Naxos  pretended  that  that  God  was  brought  up 
among  them,  and  that  this  Honour  had  procured  them  all  manner  of  Fe- 
licity.    Others  believed  that  Jupiter  had  intruded  him  with  Mercury,  to 

Ab»'a*S<  *)     be  educated  in  the  Cave  of  Njifa  on  the  Coafts   of  Phoenicia,  on  that  fide 

sic.^Bibibth.'  that  comes  neareft  to  Nile  :  from  whence  Bacchus  was  calPd  Dionyjiuu 

Hift.  lib.  4.  &  j^is  is  not  a  pr0per  piace  to  difentaugle  the  Story  of  Bacchus.     Diodorus 

Siculus  relates,  that  there  were  three  of  them,  to  whom  we  are  obliged 
not  only  for  the  Cultivation  of  Fruits,  but  alio  for  the  Invention  of  Wine, 
and  for  that  of  Beer,  which  one  of  them  brought  into  ule,  in  favour  or' 
fuch  Nations  as  could  not  raife  Vineyards  in  their  own  Country, 
idem  Biblioth.  THE  famous  Epocha  that  the  lame  Author  has  preferv'd  us  relating  to 
,ib*  ">•  the  overflowing  of  the  Pont  us  Euxinus  into  the  Grecian  Sea,  gives  us  great 

light  into  moft  of  the  Adventures  that  happen'd  in  fome  of  thofe  Iflands. 
That  Epocha  at  lead  difcovers  to  us  the  Foundation  of  many  Fables  that 
have  been  publifli'd  of  them  :  it  will  not  be  improper  to  mention  it  here  by 

the 


Defcription  of  the  I/land  of  Naxia.  1 6$ 

the  way,  that  the  Readers  may  not  wonder  at  certain  things  which  we  Letter  W 

fhall  fpeak  of  in  our  Delcription  of  the  other  Iflands.     Diodurus  then  af-  v-^"v""5!*»«-» 

fures  us,  that  the  Inhabitants  of  the  Ifland  of  Samothrace  had  not  forgot  sanmandiaki. 

the  prodigious  Alterations  made  in  the  Archipelago  by  the  Overflows  of 

Pontus  Fuxinns,  which  of  a  great  Lake  that  it  was  before,  became  at  laft  a 

confiderable  Sea  by  the  Concourfe  of  the  many  Rivers  that  dilgorge  into 

it :  thefe  Overflows  laid  the  Archipelago  under  water,  deftroy'd  almoft  all 

the  Inhabitants,  and  reduced  thofe  of  the  higheft  Iflands  to  the  neceffity 

of  climbing  up  to  the  tops  of  the  Mountains.     How  many  large  Iflands 

were  then  fplit  into  divers  pieces,  if  we  may  ufe  that  Expreflion  ?     Was 

there  not  reafbn  after  this,  for  looking  on  thefe  Iflands  as  a  new  World, 

that  could  not  be  peopled  but  in  procefs  of  time  ?     Is  it  at  all  furprizing, 

that  the  Hiftorians  and  Poets  ihould  publifh  fo  many  ftrange  Adventures, 

that  happen'd  in  thofe  Iflands  in  proportion  as  People  of  Courage  left: 

the  Continent  to  go  to  view  them  ?     Is  it  any  wonder  that  Pliny,  the 

Epitomizer  of  fb  many  Books  now  loft,  Ihould  fpeak  of  certain  Changes 

incredible  to  thofe  that  do  not  reflect  upon  what  has  happen'd  in  the  Uni- 

verfe  during  fo  many  Ages  ?     What  we  have  further  to  fay  of  Naxia,  is 

lefs  remote  from  our  Age. 

DURING  the  Peloponnejian  War,  this  Ifland  declared  for  Athens,  with  Thucyd.  lib.  2. 
the  other  Iflands  of  the  /Egean  Sea,    except  Milo  and '  Then.      Naxos ,  Santorin, 
afterwards  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Romans  :  after  the  Battel  of  Phdippi,  Appian.  lib.  5, 
Murk  Anthony  gave  it  to  the  Rhodians ;  but  took  it  from  them  again  fbme 
time  afterwards,  becauie  their  Government  was  too  rigorous.     It  was 
under  the  dominion  of  the  Roman,  and  afterwards  of  the  Greek  Empe- 
rors, till  the  taking  of  Constantinople  by  the  French  and  the  Venetians;  for      l 
three  years  after  that  great  Revolution,  as  the  French  purfu'd  their  Con- 
quefts  of  the  Provinces  and  Places  upon  the  Continent,  under  the  Em- 
peror Henry,  the  Vemtians  being  mafters  of  the  Sea,  gave  permiffion  to  Flav  BIond 
fuch  Subjects  of  the  Republick  as  would  fit  out  Ships,  to  polTels  them-  ?reviar-  Rsr- 
felves  of  the  Iflands  of  the  Archipelago,  and  other  maritime  Places,  upon 
condition  that  the  Acquirers  of  them  did  homage  to  thofe  to  whom  they  h^"/^. 
belong'd,  according  to  the  Partition  made  between  the  French  and  Venetians.  <fc  Conftant. 
Marco  Sanudo  then  got  pofTeffion  of  Naxia,  Paros,  Antiparos,  Milo,  Argen-  Hftor,  of  (h 
tiere,  Siphanto,  Policxndro,  Nanfio,  Nio,  and  Santonni,     The  Emperor  Henry  Dukes  of  the 

erected        i    ° 


1 66  j4  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

erected  Naxia  into  a  Dutchy,  and  gave  Sanudo  the  Title  of  Duke*  of  the 
Archipelago' zv\d  Prince  of  the  Empire.  F.  Sanger,  a  Jefuit  Miffionary  very 
much  efteem'd  in  the  Levant  by  the  name  of  F.  Robert,  has  happily  clear'd 
np  the  Succeffion  of  the  Dukes  from  Marco  Sanudo  to  'James  Crifpo, 
the  2 1 ft  and  laft  Duke  of  the  Archipelago,  who  was  outed  by  the 
Turks  under  Selim  II.  and  died  of  Grief  at  Venice.  His  Father  John 
Crifpo  had  enter'd  into  an  Engagement  fome  years  before,  to  pay  Soly- 
man  II  a  Tribute  of  fix  thoufand  Crowns  in  Gold,  when  Barbarojfa  made 
his  Defcent  upon  the  Ifland,  and  plunder' d  it.  Thus  ended  the  Sove- 
reignty of  the  Archipelago,  after  having  been  above  three  hundred  Years 
Ducas  H.ft.     jn  tjje  nancjs  0f  LAtin  Princes.    A  long;  while  before,  the  Ifland  had  been 

Byzant.  cap. 7.  o  1  ■" 

ravaged  by  Homur  a  Mahometan  Prince,  Cotemporary  with  John  Paleo- 
logus,  and  Mafter  of  Smyrna  and  the  Coaft  of  Ionia. 

T  H  O  this  Ifland  is  one  of  the  moft  agreeable  in  the  whole  Archi- 
pelago, yet  to   us  it  feem'd  fitter  to  infpire  Grief  than  Joy :  you  muft 
traverfe  it   all   over    to   find  out  the  fine  parts  of  it,   which   are  the 
Campo  de  Naxia,    the   Plains  of  Angarez,    of  Carchi,    of  Sangri,    of  Si- 
deropetra,  of  Potamides,  of  Livadia ;  the  Valleys  of  Melanes  and  of  Pe- 
rato.     The  whole  Ifland  is  cover'd  with  Orange,  Olive,  Lemon,  Cedar, 
Citron,  Pomegranate,  Fig,  and  Mulberry-Trees  ;  it  has  alfo  a  great  many 
•  M«g£  y'i-    Streams  and  Springs.     '  The  Antients  were  not  in  the  wrong,  when  they 
3wthem.lib?i.  call'd    it  Little  Sicily.      Archilochm  in  Athenxus  compares   the  Wine  of 
«>p.  5-  Naxos  to  the  Neclar  of  the  Gods.     There  is  a  '  Medal  of  Septimim  Seve- 

'  Legend.  '  rusi  on  trie  Reverie  whereof  Bacchiu  is  reprefented  holding  in  his  Right 
n  a  5 1  n  n.  Hand  a  Goblet,  and  a  Thyrfus  in  his  left.  They  drink  excellent  Wine  at 
Naxia  to  this  day  :  the  Naxiotes,  who  are  the  true  Children  of  Bacchus, 
cultivate  the  Vine  very  well,  tho  they  let  it  run  along  the  ground  eight 
or  nine  foot  from  the  Trunk ;  which  is  the  occafion  that  in  great  Heats 
the  Sun  dries  the  Grapes  too  much,  and  they  are  more  eafily  rotted  by 
the  Rain  than  at  Santorini,  where  the  Vine-Stumps  grow  like  Shrubs. 

STEPHENS  the  Geographer  relates  two  Fables  out  of  Afclepiades, 

which  fhew  the  Goodnefs  of  this  Ifland.     It  is  given  out,  fays  he,  that 

MoxDionyf.a-  tne  Women  are  brought  to  bed  at  the  end  of  eight  Months,  and  that 

da  ivinearum  there  flows  a  Spring  of  Wine  in  that  Ifland  :  this  Wine  no  doubt  20t.it 

temhtate  ap-  *        D  o 

peiiamnt.  pim.  the  name  of  Dionyftai,  which  Pliny  mentions.     That  Author  allows  Naxos 

Hifi.   Nat.  -J  J 

lib.  4.   w/i.12.  tO 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Naxia.  1 6j 

to  be  no  more  than  75  miles  about;  but  the  Inhabitants  fay  'tis  ico.  Letter V. 
Its*Form  is  almoft  oval,  and  ends  in  two  Points,  one  looking  towards  **-'r~v~^ 
Nio,  and  the  other  pointing  between  Mycone  and  Nicaria. 

THO  there  is  no  Port  at  Naxia,  that  is  likely  to  draw  a  great  Trade, 
yet  they  carry  on  a  confiderable  TrafHck  in  Bailey,  Wine,  Figs,  Cotton, 
Silk,  Flax,  Cheefe,  Salt,  Oxen,  Sheep,    Mules,    Emerils  and  Oil :    they 
burn  only  Maftick  Oil,  tho  for  a  Crown  you  may  have  eight  Oques  of 
Olive-Oil.    Their  Maftick-Trees  are  loaded  with  a  prodigious  quantity  of 
Seed,  which  when  it  is  ripe  they  fet  to  concocl,  and  prefs  fome  days  after- 
wards :  this  Oil  is  good  againft:  a  Loofenefs,  the  Whites,  the  Gonorrhea, 
the  Cholick:  they  anoint  with  it,  in  the  falling  of  the  Anus.     '  Diofco-  '  Lib.i.c.50. 
rides  recommends  it  for  cutaneous  Diftempers.     The  Ladanurn  gather'd  in 
this  Ifland  is  fit  for  nothing  but  the  Ufe  of  the  Inhabitants  ;  it  is  full  of 
Dirt,  Goats-hair,  and  Wool :  for  they  do  not  take  the  pains  to  get  it 
with  Whips,  as  they  do  in  Candia  ;  they  only  cut  off  the  Wool  and  Hair 
of  fuch  Animals  as  have  rubb'd  againft  the  Bullies  of  that  fort  of  Ciftus 
which  we  have  defcribed  before,  and  which  is  very  common  at  Naxia. 
*  Herodotus  and  !  Diojcorides  mention  this  way  of  gathering  Ladanurn.  *  Lib.  3. 
Wood  and  Coal,  which  are  things  very  rare  in  the  other  Iflands,are  in  great '  Lib-i-c-irt- 
plenty  in  this.     The  People  eat  well ;  Hares  and  Partridges  are  extremely 
-  cheap ;  they  catch  their  Partridges   in  wooden  Traps,  or  eife  by  means 
of  an  Afs,  under  the  belly  of  which  a  Peafant  hides  himfelf,  and  fo  drives 
them  into  the  Nets. 

IT  is  probable  the  City  of  Naxia,  the  Capital  of  this  Country,  was  n^«  Nk  « 
built  upon  the  Ruins  of  fome  antient  City  of  the  fame  name,  which  Zlos.  Iib?j. 
Ptolemy  feems    to  have  mention'd.     The  Cattle  fituated    on   the  moftcap-15, 
elevated  part  of  the  Town,  was  the  Work  of  Marco  Sanudo,    the  firft: 
Duke   of  the  Archipelago :    it  is   a  Circuit   flank'd  with   great  Towers, 
within  which  Hands*  a  very  large  fquare  one,  whofe  Walls  are  very  thick, 
and  which  was  properly  the  Palace  of  the  Dukes.     The  Defendants  of 
the  Latin  Gentlemen  that  fettled  in  the  Iiland  under  thofe  Princes,  are 
ftill  in  poiTeflion  of  the  Scite  of  this  Cattle.     The  Greeks,  who  are  much 
more  numerous,  enjoy  all  from  the  Cattle  down  to  the  Sea.     The  En- 
mity between  the  Greek  and  Latin  Gentry,  is  irreconcilable:  the  Latins 
would  rather  make  Alliance  with  the  meaneft  Peafant,  than  marry  Greek 

Ladies ; 


i*58  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Ladies ;  which  made  them  procure  from  Rome  a  Difpenfation  to  inter- 
marry with  their  Coufin-Germans.  The  Turks  ufe  all  thefe  Gentlemen, 
of  both  forts,  juft  alike.  At  the  arrival  of  the  meaneft  Bey  of  a  Gal- 
liot, neither  Latins  nor  Greeks  ever  dare  appear  but  in  red  Caps,  like  the 
common  Gally-Slaves,  and  tremble  before  the  pettieft  Officer.  As  foon 
as  ever  the  Turks  are  withdrawn,  the  Naxian  Nobility  relume  their  former 
Haughtineis  :  nothing  is  to  be  feen  but  Caps  of  Velvet,  nor  to  be  heard 
of  but  Tables  of  Genealogy  ;  fome  deduce  themfelves  from  the  Paleolo°i 
or  Comnenii ;  others  from  the  Jujliniani,  the  Grtmaldi,  the  Summaripa's. 

THE  Grand  Signior  never  need  to  fear  any  Rebellion  in  this  Ifland  • 
the  moment  a  Latin  ftirs,  the  Greeks  give  notice  to  the  Cadi ;  and  if  a 
Greek  opens  his  mouth,  the  Cadi  knows  what  he  meant  to  lay  before  he 
has  fhut  it.  The  Ladies  here  are  moft  ridiculoufly  vain ;  you  mall  lee 
them  return  from  the  Country  after  Vintage,  with  a  Train  of  thirty  or 
forty  Women,  half  on  foot  and  half  upon  AfTes ;  one  carries  upon  her 
head  a  Napkin  or  two  made  of  Cotton,  or  a  Petticoat  of  her  Miftrefs's ; 
the  other  marches  along,  holding  in  her  hand  a  Pair  of  Stockings,  a  done 
Kettle,  or  a  few  Earthen  Plates :  all  the  Furniture  of  the  Houfe  is  ftt 
to  view,  and  the  Miftreis  forrily  mounted,  makes  her  Entry  into  the 
City  in  a  kind  of  Triumph  at  the  head  of  this  Proceffion.  The  Chil- 
dren are  in  the  middle  of  the  Cavalcade,  and  the  Husband  ulually 
brings  up  the  Rear.  The  Latin  Ladies  fometimes  drefs  after  the  Venetian 
manner  ;  the  Habit  of  the  Greek  Ladies  here  differs  a  little  from  that  of 
the  Women  of  Milo :  we  fliall  mention  all  their  Clothes,  in  our  Defcrip- 
tion  of  the  Drefs  of  thole  of  Mjcone. 

TO  come  to  fomething  more  ferious:  There  are  two  Archbifhops  in 
Naxia,  one  Greek,  and  another  Latin ;  the  Latin  one  is  very  eafy  in  his 
Circumftances,  and  is  named  by  the  Pope :  his  Church,  which  is  call'd 
the  Metropolitan,  was  built  and  endow'd  by  the  firffDuke  of  the  Ifland; 
and  accordingly  the  Chapter  confifts  of  fix  Canons,  a  Dean,  a  Chanter,  a 
Provoft  and  a  Treafurer,  befides  nine  or  ten  affiftant  Priefts,  that  make  up 
the  reft  of  the  Clergy. 

THE  Jefuits  have  their  Refidence  near  the  Ducal  Tower  ;  they  gene- 
rally are  feven  or  eight  Priefts,  not  only  employ'd  in  educating  the  Youth, 
but  alio  in  performing  Millions  into  the  other  Iflands  of  the  Archipelago, 

which 


/,y.j. 


Jh*/-ifS. 


*&• 


Calam'tii. 


Defcnptton  of  the  Ijland  of  Naxia.  169 

which  they  do  with  a  great  deal  of  Zeal.     The  Capuchins  have  alio  a  Letter  V 
Settlement  ax  Naxia,  and  apply  themfelves  no  lefs  ardently  and  fuccefs-  *-^v*j 
fully  to  the  Inftrudion  of  the  Chriftians.     The  Houfe  of  the  Cordeliers 
is  without  the  Town ;  but  there  are  only  one  Prieft  and  one  Lay-Brother 
that  lodge  in  the  antient  Monaftery  of  St.  Anthony,  which  was  formerly 
erected  into  a  Commandery  of  Rhodes,  and  given  to  the  Knights  by  the  Boffu,  h». 
Dutchefs  frames  Crifpo.  <fcs  chevaU 

P  H  YS I C  K  is  pradtis'd  by  all  thefe  Religious.  The  Jefuits  and  Capu- 
chins have  very  good  Apothecaries  Shops.  The  Cordeliers  fet  up  for  the 
Trade  as  well  as  the  reft  :  their  Superior  was  Surgeon-Major  to  the  Vene- 
tian Army  during  the  laft  War,  and  got  himfelf  naturaliz'd  at  Venice,  that 
he  might  be  Mailer  of  his  Convent,  which  is  dependent  on  thatRepub- 
lick,  tho  it  is  in  the  Dominions  of  the  Turks.  Thefe  are  the  Doctors 
that  compofe  the  Faculty  of  Phyfick  at  Naxia ;  they  are  all  French,  and 
yet  agree  together  very  indifferently. 

THE'  Country-Houfe  belonging  to  the  Jefuits  is  pretty  enough,  cou- 
ntering it  is  among  a  People  that  know  nothing  at  all  of  Building. 
The  Greeks,  who  can  but  juft  make  a  fhift  to  place  a  Ladder  on  the 
Outfide  of  their  Houfes,  to  get  up  to  the  firft  Story,  admire  the  Stair- 
cafe  of  this,  which  is  within :.  this  exceeds  the  Conception  of  their  Ar- 
chitects. We  admired  their  Gardens  and  Orchards  :  their  Fields  ftretch 
quite  to  the  Valley  of  Melanez,,  which  is  one  of  the  mofl  agreeable 
Places  in  the  whole  Ifiand.  ,* 

THE  Greek  Archbifhop  of  Naxia  is  very  rich;  Faros  and  AmiPros 
are  dependent  upon  him  in  Spiritual  Matters :  he  hath  in  the  Town  ? 
Priefts,  or  Sacred  Monks,  that  are  under  his  Direction.     Here  follow  the 
Names  of  his  principal  Churches. 

THE  Metropolitan,  'h  mwt pdinKis. 

TWO  Churches  call'd  by  the  name  of  ChriJt,  'pxp.srV. 

THE  Church  of  the  Crofs,  'o  ztou/xJs. 

01)  R  Lady  the  Merciful,  Tlxvxyla.  EAesow. 

OVR  Lady  Protetfrefs  of  the  I/land,  mvtyiu  riaiSifoja. 

ST.  John  the  Evangelist,  \yo%  \cchm  &u>K6y&. 

ST.  Demetrius,  'a^;  ah^mt^©-. 

.ST.  Pantaleon,  or  the  Great  Almfgiver,  'w&  nttmhi;^^ 

V°U-  Z  TV,..- 


17a  yf  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

TWO  Churches  call'd  St.Veneranda^nx^sKwa.- 

ST.  John  Baptifl,  'Ay  log  teams  nec'J^o^©-. 

ST.  Michael  the  Archangel,  'Ayiog  Tccf/o^x115. 

ST.  Elijah,  'Ayio%  'nMocg. 

THE  Church  of  the  Favourite  of  God,  'Ayi'os  eiMiTRtsv*. 

ST.  Theodofia,  'A-yrx  eeoSbofa. 

5  T.  Dominica,  'ajix  Rug/aw*. 

S  T.  Anafiafia,   'ajIk  Av«y«n«. 

5  T.  Catharina,  'ajicl  KoeSagfax. 

THE  Annunciade,  'ftglgftfeM* 

The  chief  Monasteries  in  the  Ifland  are, 
THE  Virgin  of  Publication,  uxvxyix  *«vajgo/ttm. 
THE  moft  Elevated  Virgin,  nxmytx  'r^hdm^, 
THE  Holy  Ghofi,  Ktfpi®'  kmbt*&Q^ 
ST.  John  Give-Light,  'a>ic?i<d«vw$  <j>oTo5iynj5. 
THE  Convent  of  Good  Infiruclion,  KccAugmiow. 
THAT  of  the  Crofs,  'o  *tccv&. 
THAT  of  St.  Michael,  *o  t«|i«?^s. 


The  Villages  of  the  Ifland  are, 


Comiaqui, 

Votri, 

Scados, 

Checrez, 

Apano  Sangri, 

Cato  Sangri, 

Cheramoti, 

Siphones, 

Mont, 

Perato, 

Caloxylo, 

Charami, 

Filoti, 

Damariona, 


Engarez, 
Danaio, 
Tripodez, 
Apano  Lagadia, 
Cato  Lagadia, 
Metochi, 


Vourvouria, 

Carchi, 

Acadinti, 

Mognitia, 

Kjnidaro, 

Aiolas,  meiocm, 

Sealaria,  where  the  Pots  Fyrgos, 

are  made  ;  Apano  Potamia, 

Couchoucherado)  Cato  Potamhy 

Gizamos,  Aitelini, 

Damala,  Vazokilotifa, 

Melanez,  St.  EleutheritVy  the  0 
Cabonez,  of  which  is  call'd  Fa 

Courmcorio,     [tail/  foaiUiu 

thes: 


/.V.J-. 


ui-a  u/?f7n  a    Lft<?c£  near  y  JfltisLs/  af^  \/<zrcv . 


**"<£■  JZ^,- 


rDefcription  of  the  IJland  of  Naxia.  1 7 1 

THESE  Villages  arc  not  all  very  populous ;  the  Jefiiits  afliired  us,  Letter  V. 
there  were  not  above  8000  Souls  in  the  Ifland.  In  1700,  the  Inhabitants  <^~^r^-^ 
paid  5000  Crowns  Capitation,  and  5500  Crowns  Land-Tax.  They  every 
Year  in  the  City  ele<5t  fix  Adminiftrators.  At  the  time  when  we  were 
there,  the  Cadi  was  not  accompany 'd  with  more  than  feven  or  eight 
Tark/{b  Families,  and  the  Vaivode  was  another  Turk  deputed  by  a  Bey  of 
a  Galley  of  Scios. 

THE  Gentlemen  of  Naxia  keep  wholly  in  the  Country  in  their 
Caftles,  which  are  pretty  handfbmc  fquare  Homes,  and  vifit  one  another 
but  very  rarely :  Hunting  is  moll:  of  their  Employment.  When  a  Friend 
comes  to  fee  them,  they  order  one  of  their  Servants  to  drive  the  firfl:  Hog 
or  Calf  he  can  light  of  into  their  Grounds  :  thefe  Animals  thus  caught 
ftraying,  as  they  call  it,  in  their  Territories,  are  confifcated,  and  put  to 
death  according  to  the  Cuftom  of  the  Country  ;  and  they  feaft  upon  his 
Carcaft.  Pliki  is  a  part  of  the  Ifland  where  they  fay  there  are  Stags : 
the  Trees  are  not  very  tall  ;  we  faw  none  but  Cedars  with  Cyprefs-  Cc^^  Mio 

_  Cuprefll  me- 

J-eaVeS.  '  dia,  ruajonbus 

ABOUT  aMusket-fhot  from  the  Ifland,  near  the  Caftle,  rifes  outa^f-  c'  B' 
little  Rock,  on  which  is  to  be  feen  a  very  beautiful  Gate  of  Marble,  a- 
mong  lbme  large  pieces  of  the  fame  Stone,  and  fome  bits  of  Granate- 
Stone ;  the  Turks  and  Chriftians  have  carry'd  away  the  reft :  they  fay 
thefe  are  the  Ruins  of  the  Palace  of  Bacchus ;  but  it  is  much  more  likely 
they  are  the  Fragments  of  a  Temple  of  that  God.  This  Gate,  which 
confifts  but  of  three  pieces  of  white  Marble,  is  remarkably  noble  in  its 
Simplicity :  two  pieces  form  the  Mounters,  and  the  third  the  Lintel ;  the 
Threfhold  was  of  three  pieces,  the  middlemoft:  of  which  is  gone.  The 
Gate  in  the  clear  is  eighteen  foot  high,  and  eleven  foot  three  inches  broad : 
the  Lintel  is  four  foot  thick ;  the  Mounters  are  three  foot  .and  a  half 
broad,  and  four  foot  thick.  All  thefe  pieces  were  cramp'd  with  Copper  ; 
for  bits  of  that  Metal  are  to  be  found  among  the  Ruins. 

K,1A,  which  is  thehighefl  Mountain  in  the  Ifland,  fignirles  the  Mount  a  1  a,  «»i^ 
of  Jupiter,  and  has  retain'd  the  name  of  Dia,  which  was  formerly  that  zfa'.^'"* 
of  the  Ifland.     Corono,  another  Mountain  of  Naxia,   keeps  that  of  the 
Nymph  Coronis,  the  Nurfe  of  Bacchus ;  which  feems  to  give  authority  to 
the  Pretenfion  of  the  antient  Naxiotes,  who  maintainM  that  the  Educa- 

Z  2  rioa 


172  y^  Voyage  into  the  Levant 

tion  of  that  God  was  intrufted  to  the  Nymphs  Coronisr  Philiay  and  Cleit 
Bibiioth.  Hift.  (whofe  Names  are  to  be  found  in  Diodorns  Sictdus)  in  their  Ifland.     Fanari 
is  another  of  the  Mountains  of  Naxia,  and  is  pretty  confideraWe. 

TOWARDS  the  bottom  of  the  Mountain  Zja,  on  the  right  hand  of 
the  Road  to  Perato,  in  the  very  Road,  you  fee  a  Block  of  rough  Marble, 
eight  foot  big,  which  naturally  juts  out  about  two  foot  and  a  half  be- 
yond the  reft.     Underneath  this  Marble,  we  read  this  antient  Infcription  j 

O  P  O  2     A  I  O  2     MHAO.SIOT. 

The  Mountain  of  Jupiter,  the  Preferver  of  Flocks. 

Mike!.  Erad.  m.  Galand,   of  the  Academy  Royal  of  Infcriptions,   who  aceompany'd 

M.  de  Nointel  in  his  Voyage  into  the  Archipelago,  communicated  this  In- 

iiiftory  of  the  fcripti0n  to  M.  Spon,  and  F.  Sanger  has  tranfcribcd  it  alfo.     The  wav  of 

Dukes  of  the  *  ■•       '  °  J 

Archipelago,    writing  underneath,  or  to  lay  better,  on  the  inferiour  Surface  of  a  piece 
of  Marble,  is  a  very  good  means  of  prelerving  the  Letters. 

WE  were  alfo  fhew'd  the  Grotto  where  they  pretend  the  Bacchantes 
celebrated  the  Orgies  :  but  for  want  of  Torches  we  could  not  go  into  it. 
As  for  the  King's  Arms,  which  M.  de  Nointel  caus'd  to  be  carv'd  upon  that 
Rock,  our  Guide  inform'd  us  that  they  had  been  deftroy'd  by  Thunder, 
and  that  he  did  not  know  what  was  become  of  them. 

A  S  to  the  Natural  Hiftory  of  the  Ifland,  they  pretend  that  near  the 
smeriiio.  Caftle  of  Naxia  there  are  Mines  of  Gold  and  Silver.  Thole  of  Emeril 
are  at  the  bottom  of  a  Valley  beyond  Perato,  in  the  Territories  of  M.  Co- 
ronello,  Conful  of  France,  and  of  M.  de  Grimaldi.  They  find  the  Emeril 
as  they  plough  the  Earth,  and  carry  it  down  to  the  Sea-Coafl,  to  put  it 
on  board  Ships  at  Triangata  or  at  St.  John.  The  Englifh  often  ballaft  their 
Ships  with  it :  it  is  fo  cheap  upon  the  fpot,  that  you  may  have  twenty 
Quintals  of  it  for  a  Crown,  and  every  Quintal  weighs  140  Pounds.  The 
Mountains  of  this  Ifland  are  of  Marble  or  Granate :  we  were  adored  that 
Terpentine  Stona  was  alio  to  be  found  there. 

W  E  fimpled  in  the  Marines  towards  the  Port  of  the  Sakpits  at  Cala- 
tnitia,  where  the  Jeluits  regaled  us  ;  at  Pliki ;  at  Perato,  where  the  Conful 
for  fome  days  gave  us  very  agreeable  Entertainment ;  at  Fanari,  and  at 
Zja.  Before  we  come  to  give  a  general  Defcription  and  Catalogue  of  the 
Plants  of  this  Ifland,  we  fhall  here  mention  three,  that  are  rare    enough 

to 


/:>/.  t 


-fty-'W 


Scrvp>/u//ar/si  a/az/rt? 


Defcription  of  the  I/land  of  Naxia.  173 

to  deferve  the  Attention  of  fuch  as  apply  themfelves  to  Studies  of  this.  Letter  V. 
nature. 

SCROPHVLARIAy  gUtuo  folby  in  amplas  lacinias  divifo.     Corol. 
Inft.  Rei  Herb.  9. 

ITS  Root  is  afoot  and  a  half  long,  the  Neck  an  inch  and  feme  few 
lines  big,  hard,  reddiih  within,    brown  without,  picked  at  the  bottom, 
divided  into  hairy  Fibres.     The  Stalk,  which  often  rifes  two  or  three  foot 
high,  is  full  of  Branches  from  the  very  bottom,  ligneous,  and  comes  to 
be  an  Under-Shrub,  quite  bare  of  Leaves  except  towards  the  top :  its 
Leaves  are  eight  inches  long,  fleek,  ihining,  divided  almofl  like  thofe  of 
the  Thapfia  ;  that  is  to  fay,  into  parts  oppofite  two  and  two,  cut  in- 
quite  to  the  Stalk,  and  flafh'd  very  deep  length-ways.     This  Stalk  em- 
braces part  of  the  Branches,  and  furnifhes  very  vifibleVeffels,  the  Sub- 
divifions  of  which  ftretch  out  towards  the  edges  of  the  Leaves :  they  di- 
minifh  quite  to  the  Extremity  of  the  Branches,  among  feveral  fmall  Stalks 
laden  with  Flowers  like  thofe  of  the  other  forts :  thefe  Flowers  are  Cups 
five  lines  long,  greenifh,  three  lines  diameter,  divided  into  two  Lips  deep. 
purple,  the  uppermoft  of  which  is  feparated  into  two  roundifh  parts,  ter- 
minated in  a  point,  underneath  which   are  two  other  little  parts  of  the 
fame  colour.     The  Cup  of  thefe  Flowers  is  a  Bafin  of  one  fingle  piece, 
divided  into  five  rounded  parts,  from  the  bottom  of  which  rifes  a  Piftile. 
terminated  by  a  pretty  long  Thred  :  this  Piftile  joints  in  with  the  Flower 
by  way  of  Gomphofis,  like  the  Teeth  in  the  Jaws,  and  afterwards  becomes 
a  Cod  four  lines  long,  almofl  round,  terminating  in  a  point  hard,  prickly, 
brown,  which  opens  in  two  parts,  and  difeovers  two  Cells  full  of  black 
Seeds  pretty  fmall.     This  Plant  grows  in  the  clifts  of  the  Rocks  along 
the  Sca-lhore,  and  is  not  rare  in  the  other  Iflands  of  the  Archipelago  :  it 
is  bitter,  and  fmelis  ill. 

HELIO TR  OP IV M,  humi fufum,  flore  minimo,  femine  magno.  Co- 
rol. Inft.  Rei  Herb.  7. 

ITS  Root  is  about  two  inches  long,  no  more  than  one  line  thick, 
hairy,  white,  and  puts  forth  feme  Stalks  that  creep  wholly  upon  the. 
grouud,  the  longeft  of  which  are  above  half  a  foot,  pale  green,  hairy,, 

full 


174  ./?  "Voyage  into  /7j*  Levant. 

full  of  Branches,  with  Leaves  alrnoft  oval,  half  an  inch  long,  fonr  lines 
broad,  thofe  alio  a  pale  green,  hairy,  vein'd,  and  of  the  lame  texture 
with  thofe  of  the  Wart-wort,  but  of  a  much  fourer  tafte :  they  do  not 
diminiih  towards  the  top,  .except  juft  at  the  fummits,  where  they  are  but 
two  or  three  lines  long.  All  the  Branches  end  in  an  Ear  like  a  Scorpion's 
Tail,  from  an  inch  to  fifteen  lines  long,  laden  with  two  Rows  of  white 
Flowers,  of  the  lame  figure  as  thofe  of  the  common  kind  ;  but  their  Bafln 
is  fcarce  half  a  line  broad  :  the  bottom  of  it  is  greenifh,  and  the  Rims 
cut  into  ten  points,  five  alternately  bigger  one  than  the  other.  The  Piftile 
is  accompany'd  with  four  Embryos,  but  ufually  moit  of  thefe  Embryos 
are  abortive  \  and  when  the  Flower  is  gone,  you  find  nothing  but  one  Tin- 
gle Seed  a  line  and  a  half  long,  rifing  out  on  one  fide,  flat  on  the  other, 
pointed  at  one  end,  cover'd  with  a  whitifh  Skin,  under  which  is  another 
almofl:  black,  which  covers  a  fort  of  Cod,  full  of  white  Pith.  This 
Plant  grows  in  the  fields  round  the  Port. 

■ 

SCO  R  Z^O N  ERA  Gr.eca,  faxatilis &  tmritima,  foltis  varie  hcimntis, 
Corol.  Inft.  Rei  Herb.  36. 

THE  Root,  which  is  a  foot  long,  as  thick  as  a  Man's  Thumb,  not 
very  fibrous,  produces  a  Stalk  a  foot  and  a  half  high,  ftrait,  brittle,  hairy, 
.{triped,  pale  green,  full  of  Sap,  the  lower  part  furnifh'd  with  Leaves 
hairy  alio,  fliff^  feven  or  eight  inches  long,  three  or  four  inches  broad, 
cut  in  deep  as  far  as  the  Stalk,  and  notch'd  unequally  about  the  edges; 
Thofe  Leaves  that  grow  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Stalks,  lie  very  far  one 
from  t'other,  are  much  fmaller,  rais'd  with  a  large  white  Rib  in  the  fame 
manner  as  the  lowermoft  ones :  the  laft  Leaves  are  fmall,  and  notch'd  only 
about  the  rims ;  the  Stalks  lometimes  divide  themielves  into  Branches 
almofl;  naked,  each  of  which  fupports  a  Flower  of  an  inch  and  half  dia- 
meter, yellow,  like  that  of  the  common  Vipers-grafs :  the  Demi-fleurons  are 
one  inch  long,  fiflulous,  and  white  at  their  firft  fpringiug,  obtufe  and  notch'd 
at  their  extremity,  garnifh'd  at  the  opening  of  the  Fiftula  with  a  kind  of  a 
Sheath  a-crofs,  which  runs  a  Thred  with  two  Horns :  each  Fleuron  bears 
upon  an  Embryo  of  Seed,  thin  and  barbed.  The  Calix  or  Cup  is  fhaped 
like  a  little  Pear,  an  inch  long,  feven  or  eight  lines  thick,  cover'd  with 
ieveral  Scales  that  are  pale  green  or  reddifh  towards  the  middle,  but  white 

and 


/:•/.  j. 


J'af.JfJ 


Defcriptim  of  tfo  IJland  of  Naxia.  1 75 

and  finall  towards  the  edges  :  the  Demi-fleurons  are  about  twenty  lines  Letter  V? 
long,  white  and  fiftulous  in  the  Gup,  yellow  elfewhere,  jut  out  about  an  inch, 
fquare,  notch'd  at  the  point,  two  lines  broad.  From  the  Fiftula  arifes  a 
Sheath  three  lines  long,  which  lets  out  a  yellow  Thredfork'd  with  Horns 
curling  downwards.  Each  Demi-fleuron  bears  upon  an  Embryo  of  Seed, 
white,  a  line  long,  which  comes  in  time  to  be  a  Seed  greyifh,  hairy, 
near  a  line  thick,  channel'd,  two  lines  and  a  half  long,  pointed  at  bot- 
tom, full  of  a  white  Pulp  :  this  Seed  is  a  little  crooked,  adorn'd  with  a 
tuft  nine  or  ten  lines  long,  of  a  dingy  white  approaching  to  red,  pretty 
dry  and  brittle,  confifting  of  a  dozen  hairs.  Thus  by  the  Structure  of 
the  Seed,  this  Plant  may  be  rang'd  under  the  Genus  of  Catanance. 

"THE  Height  of  the  Mountain  ZJa  invited  us  to  make  a  geographical 
Station  upon  it.    After  regulating  our  univerfal  Quadrant,  we  obferv'd 

that,  V"'-;!     ~  tm^r  ■■-■ 

Stenofa  lies  to  the  Eaft-North-Eaft.     Acmes,  a  Rock  between  Naxia 

and  Stenofa,  is  uponthe  lame  Line,  but  much  nearer  to  Naxia. 
Amorgos  is  to  the  Eaft«-South-Eaft,  asalfo  are  CheuozadCopriez, 
Nicouria  is  between  the  Eaft  and  Eaft-South-Eaft. 
Stampalia  to  the  South^Eaft. 

Skinofa  between  the  South-South-Eaft  and  the  South. 
Raclia  between  the  South  and  the  South-Weft. 
Nio  between  the  South-South-Weft  and  the  South-Weft. 
Sikino  to  the  South- Weft. 

Volicand.ro  between  the  South-Weft  and  the  Weft-South-Weft,  - 
Santorin  between  the  South  and  South-South-Weft. 
Milo  between  the  Weft-South-Weft  and  Weft. 
Nicaria  between  the  North-Eaft  and  the  North-North- Eaft. 
Samos  between  the  North-Eaft  and  the  Eaft-North-Eaft. 
Vatmos  to  the  North-Eaft. 

Tinos  between  the  North-Weft  and  the  North-North- Weft. 
Mycone  between  the  North-North- Weft  and  the  North. 
•  The  two  Iflands  of  Delos,  the  lame  as  Tinos. 
Andros  between  the  Weft-North- Weft  and  the  North- Weft. 

Sjra 


ij6 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant 

• 

Sjra  to  the  North- Weft. 
Thermit  to  the  Weft-North- Weft. 
Paros  to  the  Weft. 
N*nfio  to  the  South-South-Eaft. 

I  am,  My  Lord,  &c. 

■ 

■ 


\ 


p 


. 


- 


LET- 


■ 


( I77 } 

'    ■ 


LETTER    VI. 

To  Monfeigneur  the  Count  de  Pontchartrain, 
Secretary  of  State,  &c. 

My  Lord, 

HHHf?  E  fct  out  from  Naxos  the  15th  of  September,  withdeilgn  to  go  Definition  «/ 
1  to  Patmos,  to  vifit  the   Grotto  where 'tis  thought  St.  John  Lm^Ni-^ 


wrote  the  Apocalypfe  ;  but  the  '  South-Well  Wind  obliged  us couri*>  ,Amor- 

r  J  t       >  o  gos,  Caloyero, 

to  put  in  at  '  Stenofa,  a  fcurvy  dangerous  Roek  uninhabited,  cheiio,  ski- 
and  not  above  ten  or  twelve  miles  about.     Stenofa  is  Eaft-North-Eaft,  Nk>,'  sikin'oj 
eighteen  miles  from  Naxos,  reckoning  from  Cape  to  Cape  :  for  from  one  satwrif  Nan- 
Port  to  t'other,  it  is  36.     There's  nothing  in' Stenofa  but  a  Sheep-fold,  a  fio>  Mycone. 
Iheltring-place  for  five  or  fix  poor  Goat-herds,  who  for  fear  of  falling '  Labech-AW- 
into  the  clutches  of  the  Corfairs  or  Banditti,  betake  themfelves  to  the  ijifnd.  "" 
Rocks  at  fight  of  the  leatt  Cock-boat.     Once  in  three  months  Bilcuit  is 
fent  to  thele  miferable  Wretches  :  ;they  can  hardly  find  Water  in  the 
Illand,  which  however  is  fertile  in  fine  Plants,  and  cover'd  with  Len- 
tisks,  Kerms,  and  Ciftus's.     It  belongs  to  the  Community  of  Amorgos. 

BAD  Weather  detaining  us  at  Stenofa  longer  than  we  expected,  and 
our  Provifions  beginning  to  fail,  we  were  reduced  to  make  Pottage 
with  Sea-Snails,  and  we  had  leifure  enough  to  direct  them  :  they  are  far 
better  than  the  Goats-eye  Shell-fiih,  if  eaten  raw ;  and  preferable  to 
Land-Snails,  if  boil'd.  It  was  the  only  Ragou  this  Iiland  fupply'd  us 
with  ;  for  we  had  neither  Nets,  nor  Hooks  for  fiihing  :  and  the  Goat- 
herds taking  us  for  Banditti,  durft  not  come  near  us,  tho  our  Sailors,  who 
knew  not  where  to  look  for  frefh  Water,  had  difplay'd  all  the  white 

'  Vol.  I.  A  a  Rags 


178  -^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Rags    they  could  mufter  up,    as  a  Token  that  we   were  peaceable 
Folks. 

THE  Sea-Snails  are  of  the  fame  kind  with  thofe  in  our  Gardens ;  their 
Shell  is  much  of  the  fame  form  and  fize,  but  near  a  line  in  thicknefs.  It 
is  a  mining  Naker  within,  the  Outfide  is  mod  commonly  cover'd  with  a 
tartarous  greyifh  Bark,  under  which  the  Naker  is  marbled  with  black 
Spots,  chequer-wife :  fome  there  are  without  a  Bark.  This  Filh,  which 
keeps  a  long  time  out  of  water,  trails  ov«r  the  Rocks,  and  draws  its 
Horns  jufl  as  a  Land-Snail:  they  are  (lender,  five  or  fix  lines  long,  con-- 
filling  of  longitudinal  Fibres,  with  two  Planes  external  and  internal,  in- 
terfpers'd  with  fome  Rings  or  annular  Mufcles ;  by  the  playing  of  thefe 
Fibres,  the  Horns  go  in  or  out  as  the  Creature  lifts.  The  Forepart  of 
this  Snail  is  a  large  Mufcle  or  Plaftron  cut  beneath  in  manner  of  a  Tongue, 
towards  the  Root  whereof  is  faften'd  a  round  Blade,  fine  as  a  Carp's 
Scale,  mining,  fupple,  four  lines  broad,  reddifh,  mark'd  with  feveral  con- 
centrical  Circles.  The  Plaftron  is  fo  faften'd  by  its  Root  to  the  Shell 
that  the  Creature  can't  be  parted  from  it  till  after  'tis  boiJ'd ;  then  it 
comes  out  intire,  and  'tis  perceivable  that  this  Root  bending  backwards, 
anfwers  to  the  turning  of  the  Snail.  In  its  interior  Surface,  the  Plaftron, 
which  is  hollow'd  gutter-wile,  fupports  the  Vifcera  of  the  Creature  wrapt 
up  in  a  fort  of  Purfe  like  a  Worm  of  a  Gun,  where  concludes  the  Con- 
duit of  the  Mouth. 

THE  Ifle  of  Stenofa  would  not  deferve  to  be  mention'd,  were  it  not 
for  fome  rare  Plants  it  produceth,  and  efpecially  a  kind  of  Ptarmica,  which 
we  no  where  elfe  met  with :  this  Plant  is  fo  rare,  that  I  can't  difpenfe 
with  giving  a  defcription  of  it. 
Ptarmica         i  X  S  Root  is  ligneous,  greyifh  towards  the  neck,  three  or  four  lines 
lis  criftatis.      thick,  accompany'd  with  reddifh  Fibres,  about  half  a  foot  long,  crooked 
uZt.'-'f.' R"  and  hairy  :  it  puts  forth  feveral  Heads,  where  grow  in  bunches  very  white 
Leaves,  two  inches  and  a  half  long,  on  which  are  rang'd  fometimes  al- 
ternately, and  fometimes  in  couples,  other   Leaves  two  or  three  lines 
long,  one  line  and  a  half  broad,  flafh'd  like  a  Cock's  Comb,  cottony, 
white,  aromatick,  bitter  :   from  thefe   Heads  grow   Stalks  nine   or  ten 
inches  high,  one  line  thick,  cottony  likewife,  white,  garniih'd  with  fome 
Leaves  like  the  undermoft,  but  imaJJer. :  each  of  thefe  Stalks  is  terminated 

by 


/;■/./. 


Jiiy.jys. 


N 


VcV-X. 


r^,/-    ',7.9: 


Defer iption  of  the  Tjland  of  Nicouria.  179 

by  a  Bunch,  an  inch  broad,  flat  above,  confuting  of  feveral  Flowers  very  Letter  VI. 
thick  &t,  fupported  by  unequal  Tails  ;  the  Cup  of  thefe  Flowers  is  two  ^7~v~***> 
lines  long,  one  line  broad,  with  manifold  Scales,  white,  hairy,  pointed, 
thefe  embrace  the  Fleurons  and  Demi-fleurons  as  ufual :  the  Fleurons  are 
a  pale  yellow,  flafh'd  into  five  points ;  the  Demi-fleurons  of  the  lame 
colour,  a  line  broad.  All  thefe  pieces  are  borne  on  the  Embryos,  which 
afterwards  become  flat  Seeds,  half  a  line  long,  fbmewhat  more  narrow, 
brown,  with  a  whitifh  Border,  feparated  from  each  other  by  little  mem- 
branous Leaves,  folded  up  gutter-wife. 

THIS  fine  Plant  comforted  us  for  the  Irkfbmnefs  of  abiding  fb  long 
in  fo  difmal  a  place.  The  North- Wind  a  fecond  time  made  us  lay  afide 
our  Defign  of  going  to  Patmos.  There's  no  wreftling  againft  Molus  ;  he 
threw  us  towards  the  Ifle  of  Amorgosy  which  well  deferves  a  Traveller's 
Obfervation :  but  the  Sea  running  high,  we  put  in  at  Nicouria^  a  fteep 
Rock  within  a  mile  of  Amorgos. 

NICOVRIA  is  a  Block  of  Marble  in  the  midfl  of  the  Sea,  not  very  Nicouria. 
high,  but  about  five  miles  in  compafs ;  on  it  is  feen  nothing  but  lean 
knk-gutted  Goats,  and  red  Partridges  of  a  wonderful  beauty,  which  made 
us  amends  for  the  fbrry  Fare  we  met  with  at  Stenofx :  our  Greeks  made 
horrid  havock  among 'em;  dry  and  tough  as  they  were,  we  thought 'em 
as  delicious  as  thofe  of  Perigord.  As  for  Simpling,  we  made  no  great 
hand  of  it  here  ;  yet  there  are  two  undefcribed,  tho  they  grow  in  fbme 
other  Iflands  of  Greece. 

AS  PARAGVS  Creticus  fruticoftu,  crafjioribfu  &  brevioribus  Actdeis 
magno  fratfu.     Corol.  Infl.  Rei  Herb.  21. 

THIS  Plant  pufhes  through  the  Chinks  of  the  Rocks  in  long  Stalks 
from  one  to  two  foot  long,  about  three  lines  thick,  crooked,  angulous, 
greyifh,  oftentimes  curvated  below,  branchy  from  their  birth,  fubdivided 
into  feveral  gutter'd  Branches  a  line  thick,  yellow-green,  inclining  to  a 
fea-green,  garnifh'd  here  and  there  with  large  Prickles  in  clutters:  the 
thickeft  of  thefe  Prickles  are  feVen  or  eight  lines  long,  one  line  thick ; 
the  others  are  half  as  fhort,  but  all  are  firm,  yellow-pale,  ftriped,  red- 
dilh,  and  fometimes  blackifh  at  the  point.  From  the  Bafe  of  thefe  Pric- 
kles iffue  feveral  Flowers  all  along  the  Branches,  fupported  by  very  flender 

A  a  2  Tails: 


180  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Tails  ;  each  Flower  confifts  of  fix  greyifli  Leaves,  inclining  to  a  yellow 
difpos'd  like  a  Star,  ufually  turning  back  in  the  lower  part,  two  lines  and 
a  half  long,  one  line  broad,  pointed  and  ftriped.  The  Piftile  is  a  three- 
corner'd  Button,  one  line  long,  furrounded  with  fix  Grieves  or  Threds 
two  lines  long  each,  topt  with  a  yellow  Summit,  the  Flower  fmells  ram- 
mifh.  The  Fruit  is  half  an  inch  diameter,  adorn'd  with  three  round 
rifings,  pulpy,  and  feparated  into  three  Cells,  each  fill'd  with  a  fpherical 
hard  Seed.  This  Plant  varies,  there  is  a-  fort  whofe  Prickles  are  an. 
inch  long. 

J?  JVM  Gr*cum  faxatile,  Crithmi  folio.     Corol.  Inft.  Rei  Herb.  2 1. 
THE  Stalk  of  this  Plant,  which  likewife  iflues  out  of  the  Rocks 
rifes  to  about  two  foot  high,  thick  as  one's  little  Finger,  intercut  with  fe- 
veral  Knots,  crooked,  branchy,  attended  with  feveral  Clufters  of  thick 
Cntfcmum,five  Leaves,  refembling  thofe  of  the  Percepierre  which  is  pickled  in  Vinegar 
maritimum      half  a  foot  long,  three  or  four  inches  broad,  fea-green,  flelliy,  brittle 
mmus.  c.  .   jjjyjjgd  ancj  fubdivided  into  three  pieces,  nine  or  ten  lines  long,  one  line 
broad,  pointed,  an  aromatick  pungent  tafte :  the  Bafis  of  thefe  Leaves  is 
pleated  gutter-wife,  and  invelops  part  of  the  Stalk,  which  is  ftriped,  full 
of  Pith,  ufually  thick  fet  with  Branches  below  ;  garnifh'd  with  Leaves 
like  the  former,  but  not  above  two  or  three  inches  long  ;  thofe  of  the 
Branches  are  not  above  an  inch  or  an  inch  and  a  half  long :  all  which 
Branches  and  their  Subdivifions  terminate  in  clufters  about  two  inches 
round,  whofe  Rayons  are  but  an  inch  and  a  half  in  height,  hairy,  as  well 
as  the  Summit  of  the  Plant,  and  laden  with  other  fmall  clufters  of  Flowers 
compos'd  of  five  white  Leaves,  but  one  line  and  a  half  in  length.     The 
Piftile,  alias  Pointal,  and  the  Cup  of  thefe  Flowers,  turn  to  Seeds  about  a 
line  and  a  quarter  long,  greyifli,  lefs  than  half  a  line  broad,  picked  at 
both  ends,  a  little  bending,  gutter'd,  bitter,  aromatick. 

'TIS  on  the  fteepeft  Rock  of  Nicouria,  where  this  fine  Plant  grows: 
it's  ftrange  that  Plants,  which  are  not  to  be  feen  in  the  Plain,  fliould  be 
produced  in  places  higher  by  many  fathom  than  the  reft  of  the  Country. 
rui'**'*-  Being  landed,  we  fail'd  not  to  inquire  for  lbme  Chappel  of  the  Virgin; 
well  afTured  we  ihould  find  it  in  a  Situation  of  the  moft  difficult  accefs 
and  confequently  fitteft  for  our  Searches  :  the  whole  Devotion  of  the 
Creek  Populace  confifts  in  vifiting  thefe  Chappels.     It  fweats'em  as  much 

as 


■ 


/My. 


J"af.jSo. 


Savati/t' \  67'uA/nc 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Nicouria.  18 1. 

as  a  Bagnio,  to  get  thither :  and  this  Fatigue  is  juftly  look'd  upon  by  the  Letter  VL 

Greeks  as  one  of  the  fevered  Penances  that  can  be  undergone  in  this.^*'r~v^>-' 

World.     There,  diflblv'd  in  their  own  Greafe,  they  huddle  over  a  dozen . 

Signs  of  the  Crofs,  and  as  many  Bowings  of  the  Head  and  half  the  Body ;  Stok^V. 

then,  if  the  Lamp  is  not  lighted,  they  take  out  their  Tinder-box,  and  to 

work  they  go;  burning  two  or  three  Grains  of  Frankincenfe  on  a  broad. 

flat  Stone,  kifling  the  Image  of  the  Virgin,  and  the  reft  that  are  there : 

thefe  Images  are  not  graven  nor  carv'd,  for  fuch  they  can't  endure  ;  they 

are  a  coarle  Painting  on  pieces  of  gilded  Wood.     Such  of  'em  as  are  call'd' 

Painters  in  this  Country,  not  knowing  how  to  dcfign,  make  ufe  of  a, 

Draught  prick'd  and  rubb'd  over  with  Coal-dud,  to  delineate  the  Features 

of  the  Figures ;  thefe  Draughts  are  perpetuated  by  Tradition  from  Father 

to  Son  ever  flnce  the  time  of  St.  Luke;  for  all  their  Madonna's  are  in*. 

the  Attitude  of  that  Saint.     While  the  Incenfe  is  burning,  thefe  Inno-  - 

cents  recommend  their  Affairs  to  the  Virgin,,  and  look  out  for  a.  Papas  to 

fay  Mafs ;  there's  nothing  amifs  fo  far :  but  how  ridiculous  is  it  for  them 

to  expoftulate  with  the  Virgin  and  Saints,  if  things  don't  go  as  they'd 

have  'em  !     The  good  Women  bring  with  'em  for  the  mod  part  a  Pot  of 

Oil  for  the  Lamp,  or  a  fine  Wax  Taper  ;  or  elfe  they  leave  behind  'cm  a 

Parat  in  the  bottom  of  the  Lamp,  to  buy  Oil  with,  to  burn  before  the 

Image. 

BUILDING  being  an  eafy  Expence  in  this  Country,  'tis  common - 
for  the  Greeks  on  their  Death-bed  to  bequeath  a  fcore  of  Crown-pieces 
for  the  ereding  a  Chappel :  this  is  what  makes  all  the  Iflands  fo  thick  fet 
with  fuch  Edifices.     To  the  great  fcandal  of  Chriftianity,  there  are  fcarce- 
any  other  places  for  Travellers  to  lodge  in  ;  here  they  put  up  their  Lug- 
gage and  Merchandize :  here  they  drefs  their  Victuals,  and  likewife  make 
their  beds ;  a  Cuftom  of  very  great  antiquity.     Diana,  and  Juno  ufed  often  \ . 
to  complain  of  their  Temples  being  profaned  ;  God  preferve  the  Chappels 
we  are  fpeaking  of,  from  the  like.     None  but  the  Greeks  of  the  Latin. 
Rite  can  give  any  account  of  their  Belief,  or  the  Worfhip  of  the  true  • 
God  :  and  they  too  know  but  little  of  the  matter.     Such  as  do  not  con- 
verfe  with  our  MuTionaries,  are  as  ignorant  as  the  mofl  favage  Barbarians. 
The  whole  Qualification  of  the  Papas   lies  in  infpiring  them  with  an 
Horroux  to  the  Roman  Church, 

THIS, 


1 82  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant 

THIS,  you'll  fay,  is  a  Digreffion  very  foreign  to  an  Account  of  Ni* 
cottria,  where  there's  not  a  Man  either  of  the  Latin  or  Greek  Communion ; 
but  pray,  what  can  be  faid  of  an  Ifland  unknown  to  the  Antients  and 
Moderns,  and  which  befides  affords  nothing  uncommon,  nothing  fingft- 
lar  ?  And  therefore  we  only  flaid  there  to  take  breath,  and  then  pafs'd 
over  to  Amorgos  by  night. 

Amorous,        JMORGO  S  is  not  famed  in  antient  Hiflory  for  the  Valour  of  its 

amorgos2'    Inhabitants  ;  they  were  rather  devoted  to  the  Arts  of  Peace :  and  hereof 

AMOpn-       we  have  very  confiderable  proofs.     Goltz,im  mentions  two  Medals  of 

nan.  Jpollo's  Head,  the  Reverfe  of  the  one  is  an  Aftronomical  Sphere  refting 

on  a  Tripos;  of  the  other,  the  Reverfe  is  likewife  a  Sphere  and  a  Pair  of 

CompafTes :   thereby  indicating,  that  the  People  of  this  Ifland  apply'd 

thernfelves  to  the  Study  of  Ailronomy  and  Geometry. 

THEY  had  once  a  Manufa&ury  of  a  fort  of  Stuff  which  bore  the 

name  of  the  Ifland,   as  did  likewife  the  red  Colouring  it  was  dy'd  with. 

SuidJsEtymoi.  The  Tunicks  of  Amorgos  were  much  in  requeft :  they  were  call'd  Amorgis, 

Pol!  lib.  7.     as  likewife  was  the  Flax'  they  were  made  of.     It  is  agreed  by  Hefychius, 

■  cap  16.         -paufaniat  cited  by  '  Eultathitts,  and  others,  that  this  Stuff  went  by  the 

'  Ad  Verfum  i  ~^i  ■     r  rr    ■  1  1     i-  t  1 

$?6.  Dion,     name  of  Amorgos.     There  is  iumxient  ground  to  believe,  that  m  dying  it 

et"s'  red  they  made  ufe  of  a  fort  of  Lichen,  which  is  very  common  among 

the  Rocks  of  this  Ifland,  and  thofe  of  Nicouria.     This  Plant  is  flill  fold 

for  ten  Crowns  the  Hundred  Weight,  and  is  tranfported  to  Alexandria 

and  England,  where  the  Dyers  ufe  it,  as  we  do  the  Pare/le  of  Awvergne. 

To  give  a  defcription  of  this  Lichen,  (which  I  think  no  body  elfe  has 

yet  done  ;) 

■lichen &«-      IT  grows  in  clutters,  greyifh,  two  or  three  inches  long,  divided  into 

d«!  dnftoriw.  ^a3i^-  Slips  as  fine  as  a  Horfe-hair,  and  fplitting  into  two  or  three  little 

coroi.  infl.  Ret  Horns,  flender  at  firft,  rounded  and  ftiff ;  but  afterwards  near  a  line  in 

Uirb.  40.  '  » 

thicknefs,  hooked  like  a  Sickle,  and  terminating  fbmetimes  in  two  points. 
The  whole  Plant  is  folid,  white,  of  a  fait  tafte :  it  is  no  fcarce  Plant  in 
the  other  Iflands  of  the  Archipelago,  but  its  Ufe  in  Dying  is  known  only 


at  Amorgos. 


ST R  A  BO  makes  this  Ifland  to  be  the  Birth-place  of  the  Poet  Simo- 
nides,  fb  famed  for  his  Iambicks.     Stephens  the  Geographer  informs  us, 

that 


Defcription  of  the  Ijland  of  Amorgos.  1 83 

that  the  antient  Towns  of  Amorgos  were  call'd  Arcefwe,  Minoa,  /Egiale ;  Letter  VI- 
the  Ruins  that  are  to  be  feen  about  the  Weftern  Bay,  are  the  Remains  of  ,*>~v~v-» 
fpme  of  thefe  Towns  ;  but  of  which,  there's  no  certain  determination 
£anbe  made,  without  the  help  of  Infcriptions,  and  we  met  with  but  two 
Stumps  of  Columns  in  a  Chappel  in  the  lower  Town.    The  Southern  k*t*™'a/<. 
Harbour  is  the  belt  they  have :  and  here  it  was,  according  to  all  appea-  **"**•* 

J    '  '  °  l  *■  Fortuna  Alex. 

ranee,  that  Clitus  the  Lydian,  Admiral  of  Polyfperchorfs  Fleet,  grafping  a  Orat.  2. 
Trident  in  his  hand,  aflumed  the  Name  of  Neptune,  after  he  had  fonk£0't°hd,^Kb' 
three  or  four  of  Ant  lochias  Galleys.  llb- 18> 

HER  AC  LIDES  agrees  that  Amorgos  was  very  productive  of  Wine,  Amorgus  vlni, 
Oil,  and  other  Commodities :  for  which  reafon,  Tiberius  baniih'd  Vibius  fy tiiiflfma  eft. 
Serenus  thither  ;  the  Emperor  being  of  opinion,  that  when  a  Man's  Life  De  Poltt- 
was  granted  him,  he  ihould  not  be  deny'd  NeceiTaries.  ufus  cui  vita 

THE  Ifland  of  Amorgos  is  at  prefent  well  improv'd  :  it  yields  f$££*22L 
enough  for  its  Inhabitants,  and  more  than  enough  of  Wine  and  Corn :  Wi  4.  '«p.3o» 
this  Fertility  invites  thither  the  Tartanes  of  Provence.  The  Ifland  is  not 
above  36  miles  about,  and  ftretches  from  North  to  South:  it  is  terribly 
ftsep  towards  the  South-Eaft  :  the  Burrough  is  three  miles  from  the  Well 
Port,  built  in  form  of  an  Amphitheatre  round  a  Rock,  where  (lands  the 
old  Caftle  of  the  Dukes  of  the  Archipelago,  who  for  a  long  time  were 
matters  of  Amorgos.  The  People  are  not  of  the  Latin  Church :  there  was 
neither  a  Cadi  nor  a  Vaivod  on  the  Ifland  when  we  were  there  ;  their 
Law-Suits  were  carry'd  to  Naxia  or  Stampalia  :  the  former  is  thirty  miles 
fsom  Amorgos,  the  latter  fifty. 

THE  belt  Places  of  Amorgos  belong  to  the  Monaftery  of  the  Virgin,  nw/crfcu 
whither  they  come  from  afar  to  affifl:  at  Mais :  for  all  extraordinary  Situa- 
tions ftrike  Devotion  into  the  Populace.  Three  miles  from  the  Burgh, 
on  the  edge  of  the  Sea,  is  built  a  large  Houfe,  which  at  a  diftance  refem- 
bles  a  Cheft  of  Drawers  fix'd  toward  the  bottom  of  a  hideous  Rock,  na- 
turally perpendicular,  and  exceeding  in  height  that  of  La  Sainte  Baume  in 
Provence.  This  Cheft  of  Drawers  does  however  afford  convenient  Lodg- 
ing to  a  hundred  Caloyers ;  but  there's  no  entring  without  very  good  Re- 
commendation, and  by  a  fmall  Opening  contriv'd  in  one  of  the  corners 
of  the  Building,  the  Door  of  it  cover'd  with  Iron  Plates.  Within  is  a 
Guard-Room  furnilh'd  with  huge  wooden  Clubs  like  that  of  Hercules, 

fit 


1% 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant 


fit  to  knock  down  an  Ox  at  a  blow  :  there  did  not  feem  to  be  much 

need  of  this  Precaution  ;  for  with  a  Kick  of  a  Foot  they  might  eafily 

turn  off  a  Man  from  the  top  of  the  Ladder  by  which  they  afcend  to  this 

Door.     The  Ladder  has  a  dozen  wooden  Rounds,  without  reckoning 

iome  ftone  Steps  againft  which  it  refts.     After  this,  you  pafs  up  a  very 

narrow  Staircafe;  but  neither  the  Cells  nor  the  Chappel  are  cut  in  the 

Rock,    as  hath  been  reported.      The  Religious  aiTured  us,   that  their 

Houfe  was  built  by  the  Emperor  Comnenius,  who  likewife  handfbmly  en- 

Coirtuberna-    dow'd  it  j  lam  not  flack  to  believe  as  much :  Anne  Comnenius,  his  Daugh- 

•rtbiiioribus      ter,  takes  notice  that  the  Mother  of  that  Prince  had  caus'd  him  to  be 

SSSiS-  bred  up  in  a  Monaftery  till  the  day  of  his  Marriage.     Thofe  of  Amorgos 

tris  quoad       „jye  out    that  this  Foundation  was  occafion'd  by  a  miraculous  Imaee  of 

uxorem  diixit.    O  '  J  O 

siiexMd.iib.i.  che  Virgin  painted  on  Wood,  which  they  keep  in  their  Chappel  for  a 
mighty  Relick ;  pretending  that  this  Image  being  profaned  in  the  Ifle  of 
Cyprus,  and  broke  in  two  pieces,  was  conveyM  in  a  fupernatural  manner 
by  Sea  to  the  foot  of  the  Rock  of  Amorgos,  where  thefe  two  pieces 
join'd  themfelves  again  ;  that  the  fame  hath  wrought,  and  does  ftill  work 
divers  Miracles.     The  Image  feem'd  to  us  to  be  altogether  finoke-dry'd, 
and  of  a  very  imperfect  Defign :  the  Caloyers  that  keep  it,  are  very  flo- 
wenly  ;  their  Houfe  has  the  Savour  of  a  mufty  Guard-Room,  and  this  Con- 
vent looks  more  like  a  Harbouring-place  for  Highway-men,  than  a  Re- 
ligious Retreat.     As  there's  no  departing  handfomly  from  a  Monaftery 
without  bellowing  fomething  by  way  of  Benefaction,  we  dropt  them  a  few 
-vius  uva  per-  Pieces,  and  the  Monks  regaled  us  with  a  Plate  of  Grapes,  the  Bunches 
maximis"^-  whereof  were  about  a  foot  long ;  each  Berry  almoft  oval,  fifteen  or  eigh- 
b\\S-'  *ibus'd'  "teen  ^nes  *on§'  wniri'n  §reen>  exceeding  fweer,  and  of  an  exquifite  tafte. 
.11  Wt»,  »<*  fA  This  Convent  having  nothing  about  it  but  the  Sea  and  frightful  Rocks,  I 
giS'corum re-   could  not  forbear  asking  the  Monks  whence  they  had  luch  fine  Fruit: 
' 7"™;  Rei -they  anfwer'd,  from  another  part  of  the  Ifland  near  a  Chappel,  where 
^2-       >vvas  preferv'd  that  famed  Urn,  which  at  a  certain  time  of  the  Year  fills 
it  felf  with  Water,  and  then  empties  it  felf  again. 

CHRISTIANITY  has  not  alter'd  the  fabulous  Difpofition  of  the 

Greeks  :  On  the  morrow  we  went  to  the  Chappel,  to  iatisfy  our  felves 

•concerning  this  Prodigy,  and  to  eat  of  thofe  fine  Grapes.     St.  George  Bai- 

[ami,  fo  is  the  Chappel  call'd,  is  four  miles  off  the  Town,  on  the  left  ot 

the 


Defer iption  of  the  Ifland  of  Amorgos.  185 

the  Weft  Port,  clofe  to  an  Orchard  of  Fruit-Trees  terraced,  at  the  fur-  Letter  VI* 

ther  end  of  a  Kitchen- Garden  vvater'd  with  a  fmall  Spring,  among  a  parcel  ^'^^VJ 

of  well-cultivated  Vineyards :  a  charming  Abode,  as  we  thought,  for  a 

Papas.     Tho  the  Chappel  is  no   more  than  fifteen  foot  long,  and  ten 

broad,  yet  it  is  divided  into  three  Naves  with  good  Walls,  as  if  'twere  a 

large  Church  ;  but  the  Side-Naves  are  fo  narrow,  that  but  one  Perfon  can 

pad  in  front.     You  enter  the  Chappel  by  a  corner  of  the  Nave  on  the 

left ;  and  we  prelently  fpying  a   Spring  of  Water  over  againfl  the  Door, 

judg'd   that  this  pretended  Miracle   was   not  difficult  to  be  explain'd. 

This  Spring,  which  is  a  very  little  one,  is  reftrain'd  in  a  Confervatory 

five  foot  four  inches  long,  two  foot  eight  inches  broad ;  the  Water  was 

not  then  above  a  foot  deep  :  fix  paces  from  it,  below  a  Clofet  wrought  in 

the  fame  Nave,  is  bury'd  even  with  the  Surface  of  the  Earth,  the  fb  much 

celebrated  Urn,  which  is  confulted  as  the  Oracle  of  the  Archipelago  :  it  is 

a  VefTel  of  Marble  almoft  oval,  about  two  foot  high,  fixteen  inches  broad ; 

the  Opening  of  it,  which  is  round,  and  eight  inches  diameter,  is  cover'd 

with  a  piece  of  Wood  faflen'd  by  an  Iron  Bar  placed  crofs-wife. 

THE  Clofet  is  more  carefully  fhut,  and  they  never  open  it  till  you 
have  given  'em  fome  Mony  towards  faying  Maffes ;  we  were  not  fhort  in 
our  refpects  of  that  kind,  and  fo  had  the  pleafure  to  fee  the  Urn  uncover'd 
and  to  mealure  the  Water,  which  was  feven  inches  nine  lines  deep  :  but 
they  would  not  let  us  fearch  further,  nor  examine  the  bottom  of  the 
Urn,  which  is  cover'd  with  Mud.  The  Papas  only  told  us  it  was  the 
ordinary  Depth  of  the  Water :  we  pray'd  him  then  to  explain  to  us  the 
Secret  of  this  mighty  Miracle.  It  confifts,  faid  he,  in  that  the  Water 
riles  and  finks  feveral  times  in  the  Year.  'Twas  anf  wer'd,  that  the  Over- 
plus of  the  Confervatory,  which  is  clofe  to  it,  might  more  or  lefs  pais 
through  the  Earth,  and  be  infenfibly  imbibed  by  that  Marble,  which  was 
no  more  than  an  inch  thick,  and  perhaps  crack'd  at  the  bottom  :  this 
place  is  very  dark,  and  the  Urn  muft  be  empty'd  e'er  it  can  be  Well 
fearch'd  into  ;  for  Father  Richard  afferts,  that  the  bottom  of  this  Veflel  De<"c>'pt.  de 
is  nothing  but  white  Clay.  The  Papas  thought  it  enough  to  tell  us  it 
was  a  great  Miracle. 

WE  defiredhimto  tell  us,  whether 'twas  true  that  the  Urn  was  fill'd 

fometimes  in  the  fpace  of  half  an  hour,  and  empry'd  it  i'elf  vifibly  feveral 

Vol.  I.  B  b  times 


1 86 


A  Voyage  inta  the  Levant. 


Hiftory  of  the  times  a  day  in  the  fame  fpace  :  whether  'twas  true,  that  in  a  moment  'twas 

Duk«s  of  the     r    c  u  ,,  ,  '"',     ' 

ArunHligo.  io  full  as  to  run  over,  and  the  next  moment  lo  dry,  as  if  there  never  had 
been  a  drop  of  Water  in  it :  the  good  Man  diftrufting  us,  and  not  being 
(6  great  a  Fool  as  he  feem'd  to  be,  anfwer'd,  That  we  needed  but  tarry  a 
little  time  to  have  ocular  Demonftration ;  that  as  for  himfelf,  he  had  never 
feen  it  either  quite  full  or  quite  empty,  but  that  it  was  the  EfFecl:  of  a 
Miracle,  and  oi  the  Virtue  of  the  Great  6Y.  George ;  that  fuch  as  came  to 
coniult  the  Urn,  before  they  undertook  any  Bufinefs  of  Importance,  mii- 
carry'd  if  the  Water  was  lower  than  ufual ;  that  as  for  us,  we  ought  to 
rejoice  it  was  otherwife  when  we  came.  We  tarry'd  about  two  hours  in 
the  Neighbourhood  of  the  Chappel,  to  make  Draughts  of  Plants,  or  eat 
Grapes  ;  detaching  from  time  to  time  lome  one  of  us,  with  a  Wax-Candle 
in  his  hand,  to  go  and  lee  whether  the  Water  role  or  fell :  but  it  con- 
ftantly  anfwer'd  our  Plumb-Line,  which  was  a  Stick  gaged  at  feven  inches 
nine  lines  deep.  In  fine,  we  thought  we  could  not  do  better  than  abide 
by  the  Explication  given  us  of  it  by  our  Servant ;  he  was  a  Lad  of  good 
Senfe,  and  perceiving  we  were  under  fome  perplexity  concerning  this 
Myftery,  without  recurring  to  the  Tranipiration  of  the  Water  through 

Tiutctyisb  the  Earth  and  Marble,  without  naming  St.  George  or  the  Virgin  Mtry9 
told  us  with  great  Indifference,  that  the  Papas,  to  make  his  own  Pot  boil, 
had  the  Art  to  empty  and  fill  this  Urn  out  of  the  Conlervatory,  with  his 
Pot-Ladle,  whenever  he  met  with  fuch  as  were  willing  to  be  impos'd  on, 
as  are  for  the  greateft  part  thole  who  hunt  after  miraculous  things 

THIS  blunt  Speech  made  us  laugh.  We  took  our  leaves  of  the  Pa- 
pas, who  judging  by  our  Behaviour  that  we  wanted  Faith  concerning  the 
Urn,  came  in  hafte  after  us,  to  tell  us  a  convincing  Story  of  it.  A  cer- 
tain Greek  Bifhop,  laid  he,  with  his  pockets  full  of  Gold,  was  going  to 
Conjtantinople)  to  purchaiefbme  more  confiderable  Dignity,  and  by  the 
way  had  a  mind  firft  to  coniult  the  Urn,  as  to  the  Succefs  of  his  Voyage  5 
but  he  found  it  almofl  empty.  Mortify'd  at  this,  he  fpent  four  or  rive 
days  in  Prayer  and  Lamentation :  the  Papas  feeing  him  fo  dilpirited^ 
pioufly  relolv'd  to  pour  a  good  Pot-full  of  Water  into  the  Urn,  but  to 
his  own  great  furprize,  when  he  brought  the  Bilhop  to  vifit  it,  he  found 
the  Water  juft  as  low  as  before.  They  redoubled  their  Prayers  to  the 
great  St. George;  nay,  they  went  to  the  principal  Convent,  to  conjure 

the 


7  U.I 


J^.aS7 


( \ia&nu/7i  Dtctamsu.   Cretid 

*%;?/<•/,'  ^S?>//1~  cr&zjtT  rums  tiY/cjo- 
X&unc  c//a/w-  (?vv//.2rtjt.  Jt?( 


,  AV-r 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Amorgos.  187 

the  Virgin  to  fend  Water.  Would  ye  think  it,  Gentlemen,  (continuM  Letter  VI. 
our  Papas  with  an  Air  of  AfTurance)  the  Water  one  fine  Morning  was  ^^Krs^-J 
found  there  in  great  plenty.  The  Billiop  departed,  after  returning  a  thou- 
fand  thanks,  and  was  no  fooner  arriv'd  at  Paros,  than  he  was  inform'd  to 
his  exceeding  great  comfort,  that  while  he  was  at  Amorgos,  that  is,  while 
there  wds  a  Failure  of  the  Water,  the  Sea  was  cover'd  with  Corfairs, 
who  meeting  with  nd  Prize,  had  faiPd  away,  fome  to  the  Morea,  others 
towards  the  Gulph  of  Thejfalonica.  Furthermore,  added  he,  our  holy 
Urn  favours  the  Privateers,  whether  they  be  Chriftians  or  Barbarians: 
they  make  us  mad  when  they  come  to  confult  the  great  St.  George,  who 
is  the  true  General  of  the  Heavenly  Militia,  and  not  St.  Michael  otSerpha,  A?^rf*w^?. 
as  is  pretended  by  the  Caloyers  of  that  ifland.  After  this  fine  Difeourfe, 
which  we  made  no  other  reply  to  than  bowing  our  heads,  we  took  our 
leaves^  very  well  fatisfy'd  with  each  other :  the  Papas,  that  he  had  rela- 
ted to  us  his  Story,  and  we  with  difcovering  the  Frauds  of  the  Monks, 
and  Credulity  of  the  People  who  are  thus  abusM  in  the  Countries  of  Ig- 
norance and  Superftition. 

THE  Inhabitants  of  this  Ifland  are  affable,  and  the  Women  pretty  • 
their  Head-drefs  is  a  Scarf  of  yellow  Linen,  which  covers  the  upper  part 
of  the  Head  and  lower  part  of  the  Face,  winding;  it  afterwards  in  manner 
of  a  Turbant,  with  one  of  the  ends  hanging  down  the  back :  the  Appa- 
rel of  thefe  Ladies  is  as  ridiculous  here  as  in  the  other  Iflands.  We  ihall 
by  and  by  give  a  defcription  of  the  different  parts  of  it. 

WE  rauft  not  leaVe  Amorgos,  Without  defcribing  one  of  the  rareft 
Plants  in  all  the  Archipelago :  we  found  it  no  where  but  in  the  Slits  of  that 
horrid  Rock,  where  Hands  the  Convent  of  the  Virgin. 

ORIGANVM  Ditfamni  Cretici  facie,  folio  craffo,  nunc  villofo,  nunc 
glabro.     Corol.  Inft.  Rei  Herb.  ij. 

I T  S  Root  is  fometimes  thick  as  a  Man's  Thumb,  ligneous,  about  a 
foot  long,  brown,  chapt,  reddiih  within,  attended  with  hairy  crooked 
Fibres ;  it  puts  forth  ibme  Heads,  whence  arife  Stalks  eight  or  nine 
inches  thick,  fquare,  fea-green,  fome  of  them  plain,  others  branchy, 
garnifh'd  with  clofe-fet  Leaves,  oppos'd  in  couples,  round  or  oval,  termi- 
nating infenfibly  in  points  alrhoft  like  a  Gothick  Arch,  nine  or  ten  lines 


.; 


long,  much  like  thofe  of  Cretan  Dittany  :  but  of  the  Leaves  of  the  Ori 

Bb  2  ganum 


1 88  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

ganum  we  are  mentioning,  fome  are  iometimes  thick  as  the  Coin  call'd  a 
Double,  flefhy,  and  fleek ;  the  others  thinner,  and  flightly  hairy  i  {bme 
are  infipid,  others  poignant,  odoriferous :  they  do  not  leiTen  except  to- 
wards the  top  of  the  Branches  and  Stalks,  which  commonly  divide  them- 
felves  into  two  Ears,  where  they  conclude  in  a  fingle  one :  each  Ear  is 
fifteen  or  twenty  lines  long,  five  or  fix  lines  broad,  form'd  by  four  Rows 
of  Scales  of  a  wamy  purple,  oval-pointed,  four  or  five  lines  long.  After 
thefe  grow  Flowers  which  open  fucceflively,  nine  or  ten  lines  long :  they 
are  Pipes  or  Tubes  half  a  line  long,  whitiih,  widening  into  two  Lips,  the 
upper  whereof  is  two  lines  and  a  half  long,  obtufe,  and  bent  gutterwife : 
the  undermoft  is  of  the  lame  bignefs,  rounded  and  divided  into  three 
obtufe  parts,  terminated  behind  by  a  Spur  half  a  line  long ;  the  Chieves 
are  longer  than  the  upper  Lip,  but  of  the  lame  colour,  and  charg'd  with 
Summities  divided  into  two  Purfes.  The  Cup  is  a  Tube  two  lines  and  a 
half  long,  yellow-green,  cut  like  a  Flute,  in  the  bottom  whereof  ripen 
two  or  three  Seeds  very  fmall,  blackifh ;  for  of  four  Embryo's  which  are 
at  the  bottom  of  the  Piftile,  there  are  always  fome  which  mifcarry.  Thefe 
Seeds  have  thriven  in  the  Royal  Garden,  where  the  Plant  is  not  at  all 
chang'd  by  Culture :  it  is  eafily  preferv'd  in  a  Green-houfe,  where,  with 
other  Aromatick  Plants,  it  requires  now  and  then  a  new  Air  warm'd  bv 
the  Sun-beams. 

THE  Ifland  of  Amorgos  wants  Wood ;  they  burn  nothing  but  Maflick 

Cedrus  folio    and  Cyprefs-leav'd  Cedar,  which  the  Fire  conlumes  in  an  inftant.     The 

jor/fruftufla-  Greeks  makeufe  of  this  Cedar  to  go  a  fifhing,  or  rather  a  fpearing  with : 

piff.en*t/k.'B'  ^ey  break  it  into  fmall  pieces,  which  they  lay  over  a  Gridiron  at  the 

Stern  of  their  Gaily -boat,  and  burn  it  in  the  night-time,  thereby  to  draw 

the  Fifh  to  'em  by  means  of  the  Light  it  calls,  which  while  the  Fifh  are 

following,  they  ftrike  'em  with  their  Tridents  or  three-fork'd  Javelins  : 

this  Wood  is  brought  to  Amorgos  from  Calojero,  Chtiro,  Skinofa,  and  other 

adjoining  Rocks. 


caloyero.  THE  2 2d  of  September,  aswepafs'd  clofe  by  Caloyero,  an  ugly  Rock 
K*&CoxjJ?n<-  twelve  miles  from  Amorgos,  the  Mailer  of  our  VelTel  would  needs  climb 
^bTlT^tr\f  ODe  °f  *ts  ^arP  P°mts  to  take  fome  young  Falcons  out  of  the  Nell ;  we 
the  skiff.        did  not  dare  to  follow  him ;  this  Man  not  only  knew  how  to  run  up  the 

^  Shrouds, 


JU.T- 


JPa^^iS  S 


Description  of  the  IJland  of  Caloyero.  189 

Shrouds,  but  would  fcale  the  fteepeft  Rocks  with  a  fiirprizing  Agility  :  Letter  VI. 
we  defir'd  him  therefore  to  bring  us  all  the  Plants  he  could  light  of,  aflu-  vu*~v"s,&~» 
ring  him  we  would  willingly  refign  to  him  our  fhare  of  the  Falcons.     He 
accordingly  brought  us  fbme  Plants,  which  we  could  have  prefer'd  to  all 
the  Birds  of  Paradife  in  Arabia.     The  Defcription  of  one  of  thefe  beauti- 
ful Plants,  take  as  follows  : 

LVNA  RIA  fruticofa,   peretwii,   incana,   Leucoii  folio.     Corol.   Inft. 
Rei  Herb.  15. 

IT  has  a  Root  as  thick  as  a  Man's  Thumb,  reddifh,  chapt,  accom- 
pany'd  with  long  hairy  Fibres :  its  Stalks  are  ligneous,  about  a  foot  tall, 
cover'd  with  a  Coat  reddiih  and  chapt  underneath,  whitifh  afterwards, 
garnifh'd  at  firfl  with  many  clufters  of  Leaves  like  thole  of  the  white  Vio- 
let Plant,  bufhy,  an  inch  or  eighteen  lines  long,  four  or  five  lines  broad, 
cottony,  white,  without  either  taile  or  fmell :  they  lefTen  along  the  Stalks, 
which  grow  in  length  in  form  of  an  Ear  of  Corn,  charg'd  with  Flowers 
confuting  of  four  yellow  Leaves,  nine  or  ten  lines  long,  oval  at  that  end 
which  is  oppofite  to  their  tail.  This  Flower  is  cover'd  with  a  Cup  con- 
fifting of  four  white  Leaves,  the  Cup  inclofes  a  Piftile  of  the  fame  colour, . 
oblong,  terminated  by  a  fmall  Head,  and  furrounded  with  Chieves  with 
yellow  tops :  when  the  Flower  is  gone,  this  Piftile  or  Peftle  turns  to  a 
Fruit  almoft  oval,  about  an  inch  high,  eight  or  nine  lines  broad,  quite 
flat,  cottony  and  white,  in  the  frame  whereof  are  faftea'd  one  or  two 
Seeds  flat,  reddifh,  round,  about  two  lines  in  diameter,  edg'd  with  a 
clearer  Leaf,  very  fine,  a  little  floping  in  the  Cut.  The  Flefh  of  this 
Seed,  which  likewife  is  brown,  is  bitter  and  of  a  hot  tafte.  This  Plant 
blows  in  the  beginning  of  the  Spring,  but  bears  no  good  Seed  in  the 
Royal  Garden. 

WE  anchor'd  at  the  Ifle  of  Cheiro,  within  Musket-fhot  of  Caloyero  7 c h e  1  r o. 
the  Falcons  were  there  eaten  according  to  the  Cuftom  cf  the  Levant, 
where  they  never  let  their  Meat  mortify :  the  Flefh  of  thefe  Birds  is 
white,  delicate,  and  of  an  excellent  tafte ;  they  would  be  marvellous, 
if  roafted  and  larded :  we  eat  ours  broil'd  over  the  Coals,  and  without 
either  Pepper  or  Vinegar.  Cheiro  is  a  defart  Ifland  eighteen  miles  about ; 
here  the  Monks  of  Amorgos  fend  their  Caloyers  at  the  time  of  Cheefe- 

making. 


ipo  A  Vovage  into  the  Levant 

making.  They  breed  here  abve  500  Goats  or  Sheep;  We  obferv'd  a 
rare  kind  of  Campanula. 

CAM  PA  NVLJ  faxatilif,  folia  Inferior  thus  Belli  dis,  ceteris  Nummula- 
ris.    Corol.  Inft,  Rei  Herb.  j. 

ITS  Root  is  thick  as  a  Man's  Thumb,  infinuating  into  the  Clefts  of 
the  Rocks,  white,  fweet,  full  of  Milk ;  its  firft  Leaves  are  like  thole  of 
the  little  Daizy,  difpos'd  in  a  round  dark  green,  mining,  two  inches  and 
a  half  long,  half  an  inch  broad  :  thofe  that  accompany  the  Stalks,  are 
more  like  the  Leaves  of  the  Money-wort  or  Nummularis  and  are  flefhy, 
fleek,  bright  green,  eight  or  nine  lines  long,  terminating  infeafibly  in  a 
point,  luftain'd  by  a  very  fhort  Tail,  thick  let  on  the  Stalks  about  eight  or 
nine  inches  long,  and  which  often  hang  from  the  Clefts  of  the  Rocks,  a 
line  thick,  milky,  and  full  of  white  Marrow.  From  the  Bafis  of  the 
Leaves  grow  along  the  Stalks,  Flowers  like  a  Bell,  feven  or  eight  lines 
long,  four  or  five  lines  broad,  wafhyblue,  flafh'd  in  five  parts  like  a  Go- 
thick  Arch  ;  the  Peflle  comes  forth  from  the  bottom  of  this  Flower,  white, 
and  terminated  in  an  anchor  with  three  Crampirons  or  Hooks,  furrounded 
at  the  Bale  with  five  Chieves,  white,  laden  each  with  a  yellow  Summit, 
yery  narrow.  The  Cup  is  a  Bafon  five  lines  long,  dark  green,  three  lines 
broad,  purfled  on  five  fides,  flafh'd  into  five  points  ftar-like  :  it  becomes 
a  Fruit  with  three  Apartments  fill'd  with  Seeds,  reddifh  brown,  fleek,  po- 
lifh'd,  fhining,  oval,  a  third  of  a  line  in  length.  The  whole  Plant  is 
infipid. 

s  k  1  k  o  s  a.       A  F  T  E  R  we  had  made  the  Tour  of  Cheiro,  we  pafs'd  over  to  Skinoft, 

another  defert  Rock,  twelve  miles  about,  eight  miles  from  Cheiro,  and 

twelve  from  Naxia.     Skinofa,  for  aught  appears  to  the  contrary,  is  the 

Hift.  Nat.       ifle  Skinuffa  mark'd  by  Pliny  to  be  near  Naxos  and  Pholegandros.     The 

'  '  ~     '«/  Greeks  doubt  not  that  Skinofa  took  its  Name  from  its  abounding  with 

5,M^S^»»     -Tic  J  O 

fj&>  Maftick-Trees,  tho  this  Tree  is  not  more  common  in  Skinofa  than  in  the 

rt?us?f'  Len  adjoining  Iflands.  There  remains  in  Skinofa  nothing  but  the  Rubbifh  of 
a  ruin'd  Town,  affording  no  one  thing  worth  obfervation ;  which  occa- 
fion'd  our  flaying  but  two  hours  there,  to  fearch  for  Simples. 

THE  Ferula  of  the  Antients  grows  very  plentiful  in  this  Ifland;  it 
Nct'f5«^       has  preferv'd  its  old  Name  among  the  modern  Greeks,  who  call  it  Nartheca, 

from 


/^/■-z- 


/W  ■-».<?' 


T)efcriptim  of  the  Ijland  of  Skinofa.  19  r 

froin  Nartbex.  '  It  bears  a  Stalk  five  foot  high,  three  inches  thick,  everyLetter  VE 
ten  inches  there's  a  Knot  ox  Knurr,  branchy  at  each  Knot,  cover'd  with  ^^(T^ 
a  hard  Bark  two  lines  thick  :  the  Hollow  of  this  Stalk  is  full  of  white  'Jf"**  slnuco 
Marrow,  which  being  well  dry'd,  takes  fire  like  a  Match  ;  this  Fire  holds  n-aflkmo  ad 
^ good  while,  and  confqmes  the  Marrow  very  gently,  without  damaging raniofofcum- 
the  Bark;  which  makes  them  ule  this  Plant  in  carrying  fire  from  one belIlfero-  Ce- 

J      °  rol.  Infl.  Ret 

place  to  another ;  our  Sailors  laid  in  good  ftore  of  it.     This  Ule  is  of  the  ««-*•  22. 
earlieft  Antiquity,  and  may  help  to  explain  a  Paffage  in  Htfiod  ;  who  ej>»»ia«»n«?- 
fpeaking  of  the  Fire  which  Prometheus  ftole   in  Heaven,  fays,    that  he  0lT&  Dies!  ' 
brought  it  in  a  Ferula.     The  Foundation  of  this  Fable  doubtlefs  proceeds  ver'-';2* 

Clin   Prnm*» 

from  Prometbeus's  being  the  Inventor  of  the  *  Steel  that  ftrikes  fire  from  tha  mimere 
|he  Flint.     In  all  probability  Prometheus  made  ule  of  the  Marrow  of  the  ^",v.  al!' 
Ferula  inftead  of  a  Match,  and  taught  Men  how  to  preferve  Fire  in  the  ''*•  **« 
Stalks  of  this  Plant.  sw."2T" 

THE  Stalks  are  flrong  enough  to  be  lean'd  upon,  but  too  light  to  ^blioth-  Hlft- 
hurt  in  ftriking :  and  therefore  Bacchus,  one  of  the  greatefl  Legiilators  of  idem,  lib.  3.. 
Antiquity,  wifely  ordain'd  the  firfl  Men  that  drank  Wine,  to  make  ule  of 
Canes  of  this  Plant,  becaufe  being  heated  with  exceflive  drinking,  they  'f'^  $  <&> 
would  often  break  one  another's  Heads  with  the  ordinary  Canes.    The  Pl«.  i^^. 
Priefts  of  the  lame  God  iupported  themlelves  on  thefe  Stalks  when  they 
walk'd  j  and  Pliny  oblerves,  that  this  Plant  is  greedily  eaten  by  AiTes,  ***■  **■ 
tho  to  other  Beafls,  of  Burden  'tis  rank  Poifon :  we  could  not  try  the 
Truth  of  this  Obiervation,  there  being  nothing  but  Sheep  and  Goats  on. 
the  Ifland.     The  Ferula  of  Italy  and  France  differs  from  that  of  Greece  ; 
therefore  when '  Martial  faid,  that  the  Ferula  was  the  Pedant's  Scepter,  '  £nifePBr 

r  triftes  fceptra- 

becaufe  they  ule  it  in  the  correcting  of  their  Scholars,  he.  doubtlefs  meant  Pa=dagogo:iim 
that  fort  which  grows  in  Italy,  France,  and  Spain,  on  the  Coaits  of  the  to.  Epm-ami. 
Mediterranean. 

THIS  cf  Greece  ferves  now-a-days  to  make  low  Stools  of:  they 
take  the  dry'd  Stalks,  of  this  Plant,  and  by  alternately  placing  'em  in 
length  and  breadth,  they  form  'em  into  Cubes,  fatten' d  at  the  four  cor- 
ners with  Pegs  of  Wood :  thefe  Cubes  are  the  Vifiting-Stools  of  the 
Ladies  of  Amorgos.  What  a  different  ufe  is  this  from  that  the  Antients 
put  the  Ferula  to  ?  Plutarch  and  Strabo  take  notice,  that  Alexander  kept 
Homers  Works  in.dos'd  in  a  Casket  of  Ferula,  on  account  of.  its  Light- 

nefs  ■; 


1 92  ^  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

nefs  :  the  Body  of  the  Casket  was  made  of  this  Plant,  and  then  cover'd 
with  fome  rich  Stuff  or  Skin,  fet  off  with  Ribs  of  Gold,  and  adorn'd 
with  Pearl  and  precious  Stones.  We  made  incifions  into  fome  Stalks  of 
the  Ferula;  the  Milk  which  came  out,  as  like  wife  the  Clots  which  were 
naturally  form'd  on  other  Stalks  of  the  fame  Plant,  did  not  at  all  favour 
oiGa.lba.num:  this  Drug  proceeds  from  an  umbelliferous  Plant  growing 

Oreofelini»i»    in  Africa,  which  has  been  a  long  time  preferv'd  in  the  Royal  Garden. 

Gaibanifeium,  and  which  I  have  lifted  under  the  Tribe  of  Oreofelinum,  from  the  Struc- 

fiutefcens  Ani-  n  .       _ 

fi  folio,    mft.  ture  of  its  Fruit. 

Rei  Htrb.  3  19- 

Racua.  FR O M  Skinofa  we  pafs'd  to  Raclia,  another  Rock  at  three  miles 
diftance,  fituated  between  Naxia  and  Nio:  we  lay  at  Raclia  the  23d  of 
September,  defigning  to  fet  out  immediately  for  Nio  ;  but  there  run  fb  high 
a  Sea,  we  were  forced  to  flay  three  days  on  this  bale  Rock,  which  is  not 
above  twelve  miles  about ;  whereas  Nio  is  a  very  agreeable  Ifland,  and 
much  bigger.  The  Monks  of  Amorgos,  who  are  mafters  of  Raclia,  have 
a  Breed  here  of  8  or  900  Goats  or  Sheep  ;  there  are  not  above  two  Ca- 
loyers  to  look  after  them :  thefe  poor  Caloyers  live  on  black  Bisket  and 
Shell-fifh ;  their  Cheefe  is  very  good.  Thefe  Monks,  who  keep  their 
abode  towards  the  top  of  the  Mountain,  near  a  very  plentiful  Spring  of 
Water,  are  every  moment  alarm'd  by  the  Corfairs,  who  often  land  there 
to  catch  a  few  Goats ;  there  hardly  paffes  a  Saick,  but  the  Seamen  Ileal 
one :  in  two  days,  our  Seamen,  who  were  but  three  in  number,  knock'd 
o'  th'  head  feven,  and  pick'd  the  bones  of  'em.  We  went  our  felves  and 
inform'd  the  Caloyers,  and  paid  them  fifteen  pence  a-piece  for  the  Goats : 
pleas'd  with  this,  rhey  prcfented  us  a  Cheefe,  and  a  Goat  which  prov'd 
very  good,  becaufe  we  let  it  mortify  fome  hours. 

AT  firft  blufh  it  mould  feem  as  if  Raclia  borrow'd  its  Name  from  He- 
r  raclea ;  but  befides  that  the  antient  Geographers  make  no  mention  of  any 
Jic'^tjv'  Ifland  of  this  Name,  there's  a  great  probability  that  this  we're  ipeaking 
srtfh01&*^'of>  vvas  known  by  the  Name  of  '  Nicafia,  placed  near  Naxos,  by  Pliny 
Suid.  and  others.     Having  but  little  to  do  at  Raclia,  we  took  occafion,  while 

im&Jwi i  we  waited  for  a  Paflage  to  Nio,  to  make  a  Geographical  Station  on  the 
N/y^n*  «*»-  top  0f  the  higheft  Rock  in  the  Country :  that  is  to  fav,  after  we  had 
Euftat.  ad       well  regulated  our  univerfal  Quadrant,  we  ask'd  the  Caloyers  the  Names 

vei-f.e^o.  Dio-  J 

nyf.  Peiieg.  Of 


Toil. 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Raclia.  193 

of  the  circumjacent  Iflands,  and  obferv'd  to  what  Point  of  the  Compafs  Letter  VI. 
they  lay :  we  found  +Jrm\T\j 

Naxia  to  be  North  of  Raclia. 
Stenofa,  North-North-Eaft. 
Skinofa,  North-Eaft. 
Cbeiro,  Eaft -North-Eaft. 
Amorgos,  Eaft. 
St  amp. ilia,  South- Eaft. 
Paros,  North-Weft. 
There  are  but  two  Cales  or  finall  Ports  at  Raclia,  the  one  North,  over  caianque,  in 
againft  Naxia,  the  other  North-North-Eaft :  here  we  difiected  foine  of  the  ca  •,  k*^:- 
Shell-fiih  call'd  '  Goats-eyes,  of  which  we  eat  various  forts.  jTcreik™'" 

.THE  Shell  of  this  Fifh  is  a  Bafon  of  one  intire  piece  A.  about  an  .  Lepas. 
inch  or  two  in  diameter,  almoft  oval,  eight  or  nine  lines  deep,  form'd  like 
a  Funnel,  terminating  in  a  point,  filPd  by  a  Fifh  which  at  firft  prefents 
you  with  a  large  pectoral  Mufcle  B.  greyiih  brown,  the  Rims  reddifh,  and 
flightly  waved  :  the  Surface  of  this  Mufcle  moves  in  little  grains  or  par- 
ticles juft  as  Water  ieething  over  a  fire  before  it  boils  ;  this  Surface  is  fup- 
ple,  cover'd  with  a  gluey  flabber-like  Liquor  :  by  all  which,  the  Fifh  is 
fo  fitted  for  infinuating  it  felf  into  the  minuteft  Inequalities  of  the  Rocks, 
.and  will  ftick  thereto  fofaft,  that  there's  no  making 'em  quit  their  hold, 
but  with  a  fharp-pointed  Knife.     This  Mufdc  is  tough  as  Whit-leather 
about  three  lines  thick,  and  generally  an  inch  in  length,  exactly  refem- 
bling  the  pectoral  Mufcle  of  your  Land-Snails :  the  inner  Surface  C.  of 
the  pectoral  Mufcle  is  fleek,  mining,  hollow'd  gutter-wife,  at  the  bot- 
tom whereof  is  placed  a  Tendon,  which  leparates  it  into  two  Ventricles ; 
this  Mufcle  is  lurrounded  with  a  Border  or  RufF  D.  which  has  a  very 
quick  Motion  (independent  of  the  Mufcle)  when  'tis  prick'd :  this  RufF 
or  Border  is  compos'd  of  tranl'verfe  Fibres,  rang'd  from  the  Center  to  the 
Circumference ;  which  would  make  one  fufpect  it  did  the  Office  of  the 
Jfpera  Arteria,  if  by  means  of  its  Tendon  it  did  not  adhere  ib  faft  to 
the  Shell,  infomuch  that  there's  no  loofening  it  without  a  Knife. 

THE    Head   of  the   Fifh  comes  out  of  a  fort  of  Coif  fring'd  and 

ruffled,  produced  by  Elongation  of  the  Border  or  RufF  abovemcntion'd  : 

this  Head,  not  unlike  that  of  a  fucking  Pig,  is  four  or  five  lines  long, 

Vol.  T.  C  c  half 


1 94  'A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

half  as  broad,  rounded  upwards,  ending  in  a  reddifh  Mouth,  two  lines 
broad,  and  edg'd  with  a  large  Lip  :  on  each  fide  its-Front,  ilTues  a  Horn, 
which  are  pulh'd  out  or  contracted  like  other  Snails ;  only  they  bend 
back  much  like  a  Cow's  Horn. 

TH  E  other  parts  of  this  Creature  are  inclos'd  in  a  Bag  E.  where  the 
Efbphagus  meets,  as  in  its  Center :  this  Bag,  about  an  inch  and  a  half 
long,  nine  or  ten  lines  broad,  narrowing  at  the  Head,  is  exactly  kid  on 
the  Gutter  of  the  pectoral  Mufcle,  and  contains  a  flabby  Subflance,  good 
to  eat,  interlpers'd  with  blackilh  VefTels. 

THE  pectoral Mufcles  ferve  for  Legs  and  Feet  to  the  Creatures,  as 
likewife  to  all  Snails  and  Frfh  whole  Shell  confifts  but  of  one  fingle  piece. 
When  the  Fim  we're  (peaking  of  would  move  forwards,  they  prefs  hard 
on  the  foremoft  Edge  of  this  Muicle ;  and  when  they  would  go  back- 
wards, they  do  the  like  on  the  hindmoft  Edge  of  the  fame  Muicle. 

WE  examin'd  likewife  another  fort  of  Goats-Eye,  whole  pectoral 
Mufcle  is  much  thicker,  and  ferves  the  lame  purpoies  as  that  of  the  ordi- 
nary Goats-Eye  :  its  Head  has  alio  two  Horns,  but  ihorter.  The  Bafbn 
or  Shell  is  longer,  more  oval,  and  has  a  hole  at  top,  through  which  it 
feems  to  lpout  Water. 

j  0  s#  THE  Wind  was  fo  favourable  to  us,  that  we  -got  to  Nio  before  we 

1 02.       ^   were  aware  :  the  Antients  call'd  this  Ifland  Ios,  from  the  '  hni.rns  its  firft 
•  ste  b**   V'  Inhabitants.     'Tis  forty  miles  about,  remarkable  for  nothing  but  Homer's 
ios  Homeii     Tomb  :  this  famous  Poet  parting  from  Samos  to  Athens,  put  in  at  Ios,  and 
nePranda!p/!».died  in  the  Port.     They  erected  him  a  Tomb-flrone,  on  which  (a  long 
lib.  4.  M/.12.  Cjme  after)  was  grav'd  th   Epitaph  related  by  Hevodotn*,  the  iuppos'd  Wri. 
» Rer.  Geo",  ter  of  Homer's  Life.     *  Strabo, s  Pliny,  and c  Pai/Janias,  mention  this  Tomb  : 
lib.  10.         5tjs  acJdecj  by  the  latter,  that  the  Tomb  of  Cljmene,  the  Mother  of  Ho- 
4 Lib.' 10.      mer->  was  likewife  ihew'd  there;  and  furthermore,  that  there  was  an  an- 
tient  oracular  Refponfe  at  Delphos  grav'd  on  a  Column  fupporting  the  Sta- 
tue of  that  excellent  Man.     By  this  Infcnption  it  appear1  d,  that  his  Mo- 
ther was  of  the  Ifle  of  Ios .-  We  read  the  lame  Oracle  in  Stephens  the 
Geographer,  who  has  been  follow'd  by  Eujlathius  on  Homer  ;  but  'tis  al- 
Noft.  Attic,     ledg'd  by  Aulm  Gellim,  that  according  to  Artftotle,  Homer  mufl  have  been 
'  born  in  the  forefaid  Ifle.     Be  it  as 'twill,  we  could  meet  with  no  Remains 

of 


te/.z. 


-Faa  u.o  -f 


//<•/<•  in,  u- Stead- . 


Defer ipt ion  of  the  I/land  of  Nio.  19$ 

of  this  Tomb  all  about  the  Port :  all  we  met  with,  was  an  excellent  Letter  VL 
Spring  of  freih  Water,  bubbling  through  a  marble  Trough  but  one  pace  ~*~>S^>' 
from  the  fait  Water. 

PLINY  has  rightly  fix'd  the  diftance  between  Nto  and  Naxia  at  24 
miles  :  as  likewife  that  between  Nto  and  Santonn  at  2  $  miles,  tho  ftrictly 
'tis  i  o  ;  but  that's  an  inconsiderable  difference. 

MARCO  SANVDO.  the  firft  Duke  of  Naxia,  annex'd  Nio  to  his  HiftoiT °/ *e 

t  11   cv  Dukes  of  the 

Dutchy  ;  nor  was  it  difmembred  till  John  Crijpo,  the  twelfth  Duke,  gave  Archipelago. 
it  his  Brother  Prince  Marco ;  who  built  a  Caftle  on  an  Eminence,  two 
miles  above  the  Port,  as  well  for  the  Security  of  his  own  Perfbn,  as  to 
defend  his  iinall  Domains  againft  the  Mahometans :  he  likewife  fent  for 
fome  Albanian  Families  to  manure  the  Land,  which  wanted  nothing  but 
Hands  to  improve  the  natural  Fertility  of  the  Soil.     Thus  in  a  ihort  time 
did  this  Ifland  (which  was  look'd  upon  as  a  Deiart)  become  very  popu- 
lous and  flourilhing.     The  Burgh   now  fubfiftmg,   was  built  round  the 
Caftle  like  an  Amphitheatre,  probably  on  the  Ruins  of  the  antient  Town 
of  los ;  for  the  Author  of  Homer's  Life  relates,  that  the  Inhabitants  of 
the  Town  came  down  to  the  Sea-fide,  to  adminifter  ail  the  help  they  could 
to  that  wonderful  Man.     'Twere  needlefs  to  lay,  that  Nio  fubmitted  in  its 
time  to  both  the  Roman  and  Greek  Emperors:  it  came  into  the  Family  of 
Pifatii  by  the  Marriage  of  Prince  Marco's  -only  Daughter  with  Lewis  Pi- 
fani  a  Venetian  Noblemen. 

THEIR  Cuftom  is  once  a  Year  to  chufe  a  Coniiil  or  two.     The  In- 
habitants paid  the  Grand  Signior,  in  the  Year  1700,  two  thouland  Crowns 
for  the  Capitation,  and  3000  for  the  Land-Tax.     The  Ifland  is  well  cul- 
tivated, and  not  fo  fteep  as  the  other  Iflands :  fo  that  M.  Bocbarfs  Ety-  Geogt.  Saa. 
mology  of  it,  won't  hold.     There's  great  call  for  the  Wheat  it  produces,  llbl  *'  caF<14* 
but  Oil  and  Wood  are  fcarce.     No  Palrn-Trees  are  now  to  be  leen,  tho 
'tis  likely  this  fort  of  Tree  was  what  antiently  caus'd  it  to  be  calPd  Pha- 
uice,  as  is  obicrv'd  by  Pliny  and  others.     In  the  King's  Cabinet  there's  a 
Medal  of  this  Iflaud,  with  JupiteSs  Head  on  one  fide,  and  a  P.i/Us  with  ihtjin. 
a  Palm-Tree  on  the  other.     Father  Hardouin  mentions  a  Medal  of  this  NUm.  Pepul. 
Ifland,  with  a  Head  of  LucilU  on  it.  &-Urb- 

THERE  remains,  no  Footftep  of  Antiquity  in  Nio  :  The  Inhabitants 
have  no  notion  of  any  thing  but  the  Pence:  tbev  are  all  Thieves  by 

Cc  2  Pro- 


ipd  ^  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Profeffion,  and  therefore  the  Turks  call  it  Little  Malta  ;  'tis  a  Harbouring, 
place  for  mod  of  the  Corfairs  of  the  Mediterranean.  The  Latins  there 
have  but  one  Church,  fupply'd  by  a  Vicar  of  the  Bifhop  of  Santorin  •  the 
other  are  Greek  Churches,  depending  on  the  Bilhop  of  Siphanto. 

PRIVATEERS  frequent  this  Ifland,  attracted  by  the  Beauty  of  its 
Havens  :  that  below  the  Burgh  is  one  of  the  fecureft  throughout  the  Ar- 
chipelago, its  Entrance  verges  from  South  to  South-South-Ea{l.  The  Port 
?he  Machine-  0f  '  Manganari  faces  the  Eaft,  and  affords  a  fafe  Retreat  for  the  largeft 
MavjWfM.  Fleets.  The  Pilots  of  Nio  and  Milo  are  reckon'd  the  beft  of  any  in  the 
Levant,  becaufe  they  have  a  thorow  Knowledge  of  the  Coafts  of  Syria 
and  Egypt,  where  the  richeft  Prizes  are  taken.  M.  d'e  Cintray,  a  Cruifer 
put  into  Port  while  we  were  there :  He  came  on  fhore,  attended  by  his 
Levantines,  arm'd  up  to  the  very  teeth  ;  he  took  a  Dinner  at  the  French 
Consul's,  and  then  return'd  on  board  his  own  Ship.  He  wanted  Bisket 
and  a  Pilot,  which  if  the  Conful  had  not  procured,  the  Cadi  or  Waivod 
would  for  Mony. 

A  S  we  were  going  in  fearch  of  Simples,  to  our  great  furprize  we  law 
our  Sailors  coming  down  from  the  Mountains,  fo  feared  that  they  knew 
■  corfahs  of  not  whether  their  Saick  was  carry'd  off  by  Maltefe,  '  Barbarees,  or  Ban- 
Barbary.  ig^  *T\\\s  Adventure  concern'd  us  a  little :  but  we  loon  learnt  at  the  Con. 
ful's  Houfe,  that  the  Veffel  was  in  the  Port,  that  the  Seamen  had  quitted 
it  to  get  alhore,  at  fighc  of  one  of  M.  Qintrafs,  Galliots  ;  and  that  in 
fhort  M.  Tourtin,  who  commanded  it,  being  inform'd  the  Goods  on 
board  belong'd  to  Frenchmen,  fet  it  at  liberty.  One  is  fubjed:  to  thefe 
petty  Alarms  in  the  Archipelago,  where  one  can't  pals  from  one  Me  to 
another  but  in  Boats  with  two  or  four  Oars,  which  never  go  except  in 
calm  Weather :  'twould  be  (till  worfe  to  make  ufe  of  large  Veffels,  which 
tho  they  are  fecure  from  the  Banditti,  yet  they  wear  out  one's  patience  in 
flaying  for  a  Wind. 

THESE  Banditti,  who  are  dreaded  in  all  parts  of  the  Archipelago,  are 
a  parcel  of  Villains,  who  are  forced  by  Indigence  to  lay  hold  on  the  firft 
Veffel  they  light  of,  and  lie  in  wait  for  others  at  the  Turn  of  fome  Cape 
or  in  fbme  Creek :  Thefe  Wretches,  not  content  with  plundering  People, 
throw  'em  over-board  with  a  Stone  about  their  necks,  for  fear  of  be- 
ing feiz'd,  upon  the  Complaints  of  thofe  they  have  ill  ufed.    We  under- 

ftcod, 


/:-/.j. 


-Paf-JSf- 


fU-T. 


3* 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Nio.  1 97 

Hood,  fome  days  afterwards,  that  M.  de  Ctatray  had  made  prize  of  two  Letter  VI. 
VefTels  belonging  to  thefe  Banditti,  who  were  carrying  off  a  Ship  laden  v-/~vr">*-' 
with  Timber,  and  eighteen  Turkifi  PafTengers. 

THE  People  of  Nio  will  never  forget  the  great  Actions  of  the  Che- 
valiers cC Hoquincourt  and  Temericourt :  the  firft  came  thither  to  refit,  after 
having  in  the  Port  of  Scio  fingly  fought  thirty  Galleys  commanded  by  the 
Captain-Baihaw ;  the  fecond,  by  means  of  a  favourable  Wind,  forced 
fixty  Galleys  to  fheer  ofr^  after  feveral  of  'em  had  been  well  bang'd. 
This  Fleet  had  all  the  difficulty  in  the  world  to  get  away  to  Cavdia, 
where  it  was  carrying  2000  Janizaries. 

IT  had  been  very  agreeable  to  have  {laid  at  ATio,  had  there  been  Fruits 
and  Refrefhments  :  but  the  Soil  affords  nothing  but  Corn.  The  Wo- 
mens  Apparel  in  this  Ifland  is  as  odd  as  in  the  other  Iflands.  As  for 
Plants,  the  Ifland  produces  none  uncommon ;  yet  we  found  a  fort  of 
Cakile  which  is  not  yet  defcribed,  and  which  we  met  with  an  Mtlo  and 
fome  other  Iflands. 

THIS  Plant  is  branchy,  a  foot  and  a  half  or  two  foot  high ;  its  Stalk  cakhe 
is  three  lines  thick,  dusky  green,  moderately  hairy,  angulous,  full  offo*™^?™* 
white  Pith,  fubdivided  into  feveral  Branches,  attended  with  Leaves  here  ftriat,3>  bIev,\ 

*  Corel,  bift.  Ret 

and  there,  like  thofe  of  the  Garden-Rocket:  they  are  about  two  inches  Herb.  49. 
long,  deep  green,  flefhy,  acrid,  mucilaginous,  cut  in  as  far  as  the  Stalk, 
and  growing  lefs  the  nearer  they  are  to  the  Flowers.     From  the  Bafe  of 
thefe  Leaves  grow  finall  Threds  adorn'd  with  yet  fmaller  Leaves ;  the  Ex- 
tremities of  the  Branches  are  laden  all  along  with  Flowers  eonfifting  of 
four  white  Leaves,  five  lines  long,  which  however  do  not  rife  out  of  the 
Cup  above  two  lines :  the  Cup  alfo  confifts  of  four  leaves,  and  from  its 
Center  grow  fix  white   Chieves,  with  yellow  tops.     The  Peftle  is  but 
three  lines  long,  and  turns  afterwards  to  a  Fruit  five  or  fix  \  lines  long, 
two  lines  thick,  gutter'd,  picked,  eonfifting   of  two  pieces,  jointed  end 
to  end,  fo  as  the  lower  part  fomewhat  hollow  receives  the  Tuberofity  of 
the  upper ;  both  are  of  a  lpungy  Subflance,  and  each  inclofes  in  a  ieparate 
Cell  a  reddifh  Seed  half  a  line  long. 

BEING  delighted  with  making  Geographical  Stations,   we  went  to 
one  of  the  highefl  places  of  the  Port,  and  found  that 

Argentine  is  between  the  Weft  and  Weft-North- Weft  of  Mo. 

^  Sipbavto, 


198  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Siphanto,  between  the  North- Weft  and  Weft-North-Weft. 

Santorin,  to  the  South-South-Eaft. 

Chriftidtta  declines  frorij  the  South  to  the  South-South-Weft. 

Sikino  is  at  the  Weft-South-Weft. 

Avelo  declines  from  the  North-North-Eaft  to  the  North. 

Sicinus  &        AT  Break  of  Day  weembark'd,  and  according  to  Strabo's  Advice  we 
s'ikhno's.    t0°k  the  Road  towards  the  Weft,  in  order  to  repair  to  the  Ifle  of  Sikino. 
sikino.        We  are  told  by  Pliny,  ApoSonius  Rhoditu,  and  Stephens  the  Geographer, 
oinoih.      that  it  was  antiently  call'd  the  Wine  Iftand,  becaufe  of  its  Fertility  in 
Vines :  upon  which  the  Scholiaft  of  Apollonins  oblerves,  that  it  took  the 
Aot  2/xic«  i}»  name  of  Sikinm  from  a  Son  of  Thoxs  King  of  Lemnos,  the  only  Perfon  of 
CcTvJpm"1  tne  Ifland  who  efcaped  with  Life  by  means  of  his  Daughter  Hypfipile,  in 
Rhod'  aFvetf.  t^at  Crue^  Ma^acre?  when  all  the  Women   murder'd  in  the  night  not 
525.  lib.  1.     only  their  Husbands,  but  all  the  unmarry'd  Men  of  the  Country,  for 
preferring  to  them  the  captive  Slaves  they  had  newly  taken  in  Thrace. 
Tboas  landing  in  this  Ifland,  was  very  kindly  receiv'd  by  a  Nymph,  of 
whom  he  begot  Sikinm. 
'  fl  vtf-nuv     THERE  is  ftill  Wine  enough  in  Sikino '  to  merit  its  antient  Name, 
f^rJLfrT  abundance  of  Figs,  but  little  Cotton  :  the  green  Figs  are  excellent,  not 
mna  aim)  *>-  f0  tne  dry  ones,  becaufe  they  bake  'em  in  an  Oven  to  preferve  'em  from 
Schoi.  Apoi.    Worms.     This  Ifland,  which  is  but  eight  miles  from  Nio,  and  about  twen- 
ty in  circuit,  ftretches  from  the  South- Weft  to  the  North-Eaft :  it  is  well 
cultivated,  its  Wheat  is  counted  the  beft  in  the  Archipelago ;  the  People  of 
Provence  catch  it  up:  they  fvvept  away  all  the  Corn  in  1700,  and  mud 
continue   to  do  lb,   if  the  Commerce  of  Cape  Negre  be  not  reftored. 
There  is  however  fome  difficulty  to  lade  Corn  in  the  Levant ;  being  often 
forc'd  to  run  from  one  Ifland  to  another,  before  you  can  get  a  full  Cargo, 
and  then  it  muft  fometimes   be   half  Wheat,  half  Rye.     In   1700,  the 
Turks  of  Volo  and  Theffalonica  being  under  apprehenfions  of  a  Famine, 
would  not  fufter  the  People  of  this  place  to  fell  Corn  to  Strangers,  any 
more  than  in  Candia :  but  as  the  Mujfulmans  will  do  any  thing  for  Mony, 
they  let  the  Provenfals  fhip  it  off  by  night. 
Hiftorypfthe      SIK^INO    was  part  of  the  Domains  of  the  Dukes  of  Naxia  ;   the 
AnhipUp*  Burgh,  which  is  call'd  after  the  name  of  the  Ifland,  is  on  an  Eminence  to 

*  the 


TH.X 


v  Su?t7/u  6r>  r<  'te/n  7?//  znfomeun ,  /i  viettA/une. 


T)efcription  of  the  IJland  of  Sikino.  199 

the  Weft-Soutl>Weft,  by  a  frightful  Rock,  which  hangs  over  the  Sea  Letter  VI. 

juft  as  if  it  were  falling  into  it :  This  Burgh  contains  not  above  200  In-  ^^^*-* 

habitants,  who  when  we  were  there  paid  850  Crowns  to  the  Capitation 

and  Land-Tax.     The  French  Corfairs  that  marry  there,  are  exempt  from 

the  Capitation  ;  but  the  Greeks  are   very  fevere,    in  making  them  pay 

Taxes  for  the  Lands  they  pofTefs.     There  can't  be  a  greater  Punifhment 

than  for  an  old  Fifherman  to  marry  in  Greece ;  their  Wives  have  neither 

Virtue  nor  Mony  :  and  yet  they  will  venture  upon  'em,  notwithstanding 

the  King's  Uriel:  Orders,  who  for  the  Nation's  Honour  has  very  wifely 

forbid  any  of  his  Subjects  marrying  in  the  Levant,  without  leave  of  his 

AmbafTador,  or  lbme  other  of  his  Reprelentatives. 

THE  Ifle  of  Sikino  has  no  Port ;  we  landed  at  San  Bourgnias,  an 
ugly  Road  ;  the  Entrance  of  it  is  South-South-Eaft,  but  the  Saicks  mull: 
be  tow'd  aihore  :  there's  a  pretty  Chappel  to  lodge  in,  if  a  Man  has  not 
a  mind  to  go  up  to  the  Burgh.  There  are  no  Latins  in  this  Ifland :  the 
Cadi  goes  the  Circuits  ;  the  Waivod  is  moll  commonly  a  Greek,  or  a 
frank  from  the  adjoining  Ifles.  The  Confal  of  Trance  was  a  Maltefe,  he  signer  Fnm- 
gave  us  a  kind  Entertainment,  and  is  a  very  good  fort  of  Man. 

OUR  inquiring  after  Plants,  together  with  the  South-South- Weft 
Wind,  kept  us  here  till  the  fecond  of  Oclober.  We  found  a  Muftard- 
Plant  of  a  very  beautiful  fort,  which  is  ftill  kept  in  the  King's  Garden. 

ITS  Root  is  nine  inches  long,  white,  two  lines  thick,  hard,  crooked,  SlNAPI  Gr*- 

,  .11  cum  raa™- 

©f  a  burning  tafte,    attended  with  iome  Fibres  a  little  hairy  :   it  puts  mum,  tenuifli- 
forth  a  Stalk  a  foot  high,  branchy,  fpreading  wide,  fo  that  the  whole  floVprpu"™' 
Plant  is  not  fo  tall  as  'tis  broad,  except  when  'tis  run  up  to  Seed ;  for  raifcente-  c°; 
then  its  Stalks  lengthen  confiderably.    The  Leaves  next  the  ground  are  Herb.  1.7. 
three  inches  long,  fleihy,  and  flaih'd  as  far  as  the  Stalk  into  feveral 
pieces  an  inch  long,    two  lines  broad,    furrow'd    and  rolling  up.     As 
tbefe  Leaves   approach  nearer  to  the  Flowers,  they  grow  lefs ;    thele 
Flowers,    which   at    firil    are    in   a    duller,    feparate   themfelves   from 
each  other  in  blowing  :    each  Flower   confills  of  four  purple  Leaves, 
and  fometimes  whitifh,  feven  lines  long,  round  at  the  point,  two  lines 
broad,  and  rife  half  their  length  out  of  the  Cup.     The  Cup  confills  of 
four  Leaves,  pale  green,  four  lines  long,  one  broad ;  fix  Chieves  pofTefs 
the  middle,  topt  yellowifh,  difpos'd  round  a  Peftle  three  lines  long,  fine 

as 


2oo  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

as  a  Thred,  and  which  turns  to  a  Pod  or  Cod  half  an  inch  long,  reddifh, 
almofl  cylindrical,  about  a  line  in  diameter ;  it  has  two  Apartments, 
wherein  are  fome  Seeds  almofl  fpherical,  reddifh,  half  a  line  in  diameter  ; 
the  Partition  concludes  in  a  fort  of  fpungy  Horn,  two  lines  long,  in 
which  there's  a  Seed  like  the  others.  The  whole  Plant  has  an  acrid 
poignant  tafte. 

THE  great  Rock  on  the  fide  of  the  Burgh,  is  the  befl  place  for  Sim- 
pling :  we  obferv'd  there  with  our  univerfal  Quadrant,  that  Milo  is  to  the 
Weft-North- Weft,  and  Policandro  declines  from  the  Weft  to  the  Weft- 
South-Weft. 


Toucan-  IT  is  highly  probable,  that  Policandro  is  the  Pholegandros  of  Strabo 

*OAtrAN-  and  Pliny  :  for  befides  the  Similitude  of  Names,  Strabo  fays  exprefly,  that 

Phole'gan-  in  facing  from  los  Weftward  you  meet  with  Sicenos,  Lagufa,  and  Phole- 

dros.  oundros.     As  for  Lagufa,  I  take  it  to  be  Cardiotiffa,  an  ill-favour'd  Rock 

*IAOKAN-     *>  £>  J    J  ,  i         , 

APOS-  Ptoi.  between  Sikino  and  Policandro,  where  there  s  a  famous  Chappel  of  the 
A;i»;}ral8s>  yjr2in  rnuch  reforted  to  on  occafions  of  Feftivity.  What  y/ni/«f  lavs  of 
thli  sixwof  Pbotezandros,  is  applicable  to  Policandro ;  namely,  that  it  was  call'd  the 
foKiyLvScst    Iron  Ifland.     Stephens  the  Geographer  lays,  it  took  its  Name  from  a  Son 

Si/  hfj.m  en-        _      ,. 
^tiriioyJ..   of  Minos. 

C»  cO*  tw  j  T  has  n0  part .  we  landed  the  2d  of  October  at  a  ■  Creek  to  the  Eaft- 
StraK  Rer.      South-Eaft.    The  Bursh,  which  is  about  three  miles  from  the  fhore,  near  a 

Geo»    lib.  10.  1 

$ohLivS,o<  terriD^e  R°c^>  has  no  other  Walls  but  what  are  form'd  by  the  back  parts 
w«  «$r  fw  of  the  Houfes :  it  contains  1 20  Families  of  the  Greek  Worlhip ;  Anno  1 700 
m^mto  they  paid  1020  Crowns  to  the  Capitation  and  Land-Tax.  As  ftony  and 
uivaos.  tep  •  parcj1»cj  as  this  Ifland  is,  it  yields  the  Inhabitants  as  much  Corn  and  Wine 
stario  Carina-  as  they  have  occafion  for.     They  are  wanting  of  Oil :  all  the  Olives  are 


Tithymalus 


pickled  againft  Faft-days.     The  Country  is  full  of  the  Shrub  Tithymale, 

arboreus.  p.   which  for  want  of  better  Wood  ferves  for  Fewel.     The  Ifland  is  poor, 

*'1*'   *        and  deals  in  nothing  but  Cotton  ;  you  may  have  a  dozen  of  Napkins  for 

a  Crown,  but  then  they  are  not  above  a  foot  fquare  :  for  the  fame  price 

you  may  have  eight,  fomewhat  larger,  and  laced  about. 

THERE'S  no  want  of  Papas  and  Chappels ;  that  of  the  Virgin  is 
very  pretty,  it  ftands  on  a  huge  Rock  near  the  Ruins  of  Caftrc,  the  old 
Caftle  of  the  Dukes  of  Naxia,  which  no  doubt  is  built  on  the  Founda- 
tion 


i>« 


Defer iption  of  the  IJland  of  Policandro.  20  r 

tion  of  the  antient  Town  call'd  Philocandros,  as  Ptolemy  lays.  In  this  Letter  VI. 
Chappel  there  are  fome  Remains  of  marble  Columns.  As  for  the  old  Sta-  *-*"V"^ 
tue  Ipoken  of  by  Thevenot,  we  were  told  it  has  been  faw'd  to  pieces  to 
help  to  make  a  Door-cafe  of:  fome  years  ago  they  found  the  Foot  of  a 
Figure  in  Brals,  which  they  melted  down  to  make  Candleflicks  for  the 
Chappel.  The  old  Monaftery  of  the  Caloyers  is  no  longer  in  being :  the 
Nunnery  of  St.  John  Baptist  has  but  three  or  four  Nuns.  The  Ifland 
looks  gay,  as  dry  as  'tis  :  we  lodg'd  at  the  Houfe  of  Georgachi  Stay  a 
Candiot,  a  Man  of  Wit  •  he's  the  Conful  of  France,  he  likewife  executes 
the  Offices  of  Adminiftrator  and  Waivod. 

WE  were  told  of  a  very  fine  Grotto  in  this  dreadful  Rock;  but  we 
could  not  lee  it,  becaule  there's  no  going  into  it  but  by  Boats  in  calm  Wea- 
ther, and  the  Sea  was  then  very  rough.  The  Rock  is  the  belt  place  in 
the  Ifland  for  Simpling  :  we  gather'd  there  the  Seed  of  the  faireft  fort  of 
Campanula  in  all  Greece ;  this  Seed  has  happily  grown  up  in  the  King's 
Garden,  and  produced  the  Plant  I'm  going  to  defcribe. 

THE  whole  Plant,  which  is  not  above  two  foot  tall,  is  round  like  an  Campanu- 
Under-Shrub:    its  firft  Leaves    are  eight  inches  long,    two  and  a   half  faxatilis  jaco- 
broad,  and  begin  with  a  tail  four  inches  long,  guttering,  very  fine  edges :  c*oLinft.Rei 
beyond  this  Tail  the  Leaves  enlarge,  deeply  flalh'd,  ihining,  vein'd  white  Herb' 3* 
as  well  as  the  Stalk.     The  Leaves  along  the  Branches  are  not  more  than 
two  or  three  inches  long ;  the  lalt  Leaves  are  four  or  five  lines  broad,  an 
inch  and  a  half  long,  moderately  indented  and  pointed  :  the  Stalk  of  this 
Plane  is  woody,  thick  as  a  Man's  Thumb  at  firft,  laden  with  Flowers  at 
its  extremities ;  each  Flower  is  bell-faihion'd  about  fifteen  lines  deep,  widen- 
ing to  near  two  inches,  walhy  blue,  flaih'd  into  five  parts.     The  Cup  is  an 
inch  long,  cut  into  five  fharp  points ;  the  Peftle  rifes  from  the  Center  of 
the  Flower,  white  and  hairy  to  the  middle,  afterwards  greenifh,  termi- 
nating like  a  five-ray'd  Star  ;  attended  with  five  white  Chieves,  two  lines 
long,  three  broad,  bending  towards  the  Peftle,  laden  with  a  Summit  four 
lines  long  :  the  Cup  turns  to  a  Fruit  round  like  a  Man's  Head,  nine  or 
ten  lines  in  diameter,  fplitting  in  five  Cells ;  each  whereof  is  gamifli'd 
with  a  Placenta  charg'd  with  Seeds  flat,  Ihining,  brown-colour'd.     The 
whole  Plant  yields  Milk,  and  has  no  manner  of  Smell :  the  Leaves  are 
fbmewhat  aftringent ;  it  is  bis-annual. 

Vol.  I.  D  d  ON 


202  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

O  N  the  fame  Rock  we  obferv'd  that 

Cardiotijfa  declines  from  the  Eaft-North-Eaft  to  the  Eaft. 

Mdo  remains  between  the  Weft-North- Weft  and  the  Weft. 

Polino,  or  Burnt  IJland,  is  between  the  Weft-North-Weft  and  the 

North-Weft. 
Argentiere  is  in  a  right  line  on  the  back  of  Polino. 
Sfpbfio  is  between  the  North- Weft  and  the  North-North-Weft. 
Jijtipuros  between  the  North-Eaft  and  the  North-North-Eaft. 
Paros  between  the  North-North-Eaft  and  the  Eaft. 
Naxos  between  the  North-  Eaft  and  the  Eaft-North-Eaft. 
WE  defign'd  to  return  to  Naxia,  but  the  Wind  being  North,  obliged 
us  to  put  in  at  Sikino ;  and  it  continuing  in  that  Corner,  we  ihaped  our 
Courfe  for  Santorin,  and  arrived  there  the  16th  of  October.     It  is  36  miles 
round,  and  diftant  &onx  Candia  70  miles,  from  Hikino  30. 

KAAAISTH.  SJNTORIN,  or  Ssnt-Erini,  was  calPd  CatHfte,  or  the  Handfome 
OMEPA.  4"  lfwd.  Cadmus  thought  it  lb  agreeable,  that  he  left  his  Kiniman  Menu 
i>\ nt-erin i.  ^xres  jn  jt  wftn  {ome  Phenicians  to  people  it :  were  they  now  alive, 
they  would  not  know  it  again  ;  it's  cover' d  over  with  Pumice,  the  whole 
Ifland  is  a  mere  Quarry  of  it,  where  you  may  cut  as  large  Scantlings  as 
you  pleafe,  juft  as  any  other  fort  of  Stone  in  their  refpeclive  Quarries. 
The  Coafts  all  round  the  Ifland  is  almoft  iuaccefllbly  craggy  and  rugged, 
occafion'd  I  iuppofe  by  Earthquakes. 

•  ibid.  '  HERO  DOTVS,  '  Paufanias,  and3  Strabo  write,  that  Therasy  one  of 

*  Lb.  3,  &  7-  Cadmus1*  Defendants,  gave  this  Ifland  the  name  of  Thera :  that  not  liking 
Geog.  ]i\f.  8.  to  live  at  Lacedemon,  he  went  ever  to  C&lifta,  after  he  had  had  the  Re- 
gency of  Sparta  during  the  Minority  of  his  Nephews,  Sons  of  Arijtode- 
mm.  Cd-(t.t  was  then  in  poflefllon  of  Membliaresys  Descendants.  Tberas 
feiz'd  the  Ifland,  with  the  help  of  fome  Mjmans  who  had  got  out  of  pri- 
fon  at  Lucedemon  by  a  Stratagem  of  their  Wives :  the  Story,  my  Lord,  is 
too  pretty  not  to  remind  you  of  it. 

YOUR  Lordihip  knows  that  the  Mynims  were  the  Progeny  of  fome 
of  thofe  famed  Heroes  that  accompany'd  Jafo*  to  Coles's.  In  their  Re- 
turn back,  they  ftopt  at  Lemnos,  where  their  Pofterity  retain' d  the  name 
ofMwi*9S\  who  afterwards  being  overpower'd  by  the  Fel.ij^ians,  auo- 

ther 


/,:/.  /. 


J>,7<7  ao  a  ■ 


^  7/7/7/7,/  of  i£,  LVT-fiJtIXJ . 

or    iSautorui  . 


Defer ipt ion  of  the  IJland  of  Santorin.  203 

ther  People  of  Greece,  they  were  driven  out  of  Lemnos :  upon  this,  they  Letter  VI. 
went  to  Lacedemon,  where  they  were  fa  well  entertain'd,  that  they  had  ^"v"v-' 
not  only  Lands  given  'em,  but  their  Men  were  allow'd  to  marry  Lace- 
demonian Women,  and  their  Women  Lacedemonian  Men.  Yet  being  the 
Race  of  a  parcel  of  vagrant  ambitious  Heroes,  they  foon  diicovcr'd  they 
had  not  quite  loft  the  Inclinations  of  their  Anceflors ;  and  in  Ihort  they 
attempted  to  leize  the  Supreme  Authority,  and  veft  it  in  thcmielvcj : 
hereupon  they  were  taken  up,  and  fentenced  to  death  ;  but  as  gocd  luck 
would  have  it,  they  were  not  to  be  executed  but  in  the  night-time,  ac- 
cording to  the  Cuftom  of  the  Lacedemonians.  Mean  while  their  Wives 
Fondnefs  fuggcffcd  to  them  the  means  of  their  Efcape :  they  petition'd  the 
Magistrates  to  let  'em  take  a  laft  Farevvel  of  their  Husbands ;  which  being 
granted,  they  changed  Clothes  with 'em  :  the  Men  went  off  diigub'd  like 
Women,  and  thefe  itaid  behind  in  the  Prifon  difguis'd  like  Men. 

HERODOTUS,  who  tells  this  Story,    has  recorded  the  Names  of  ibid. 
two  of  Theras's  Defendants  who  reign'd  in  this  Ifland,  A'jani/is  and  his 
Son  Grynus ;  the  latter  went  to  coniult  the  Oracle  of  Delphos,  accom- 
pany'd  with  the  moft  eminent  Peribnages  of  Ther  a,  among  whom  was  Cyrene  autem 
Battus  the  Son  of  Polymnejtes  (or  Cyrnus)  a  Man  of  Quality,  and  very  Liftaeo,  mi 
much  in  efteem  among  the  Mynians.     The  Oracle  bade  'em  build  a  Town  j^^^f" 
on  the  Coafl:  of  Lybia,  and  the  Prieftefs  pointed  to  Bat  t us  i  this  they  neg-  ob'Untionem. 

,    ,      ,  ,  1  •  r    /  11  Hujus  pater 

lecled  to  do,  nor  did  they  know  where  Lybia  was  ;  but  the  Drought  cymus  rex 
which  lafled  leven  years  in  Ther  a,  and  kill'd  every  Tree  but  one  through-  &c^Jj)^ 
out  the  Ifland,  obliged  the  King  to  return  to  the  Priefleis,  who  order'd''^ '3-  caM- 
'em  a  fecond  time  to  build  a  Town  in  Lybia.     They  did  lb,  and  this  was 
the  Origin  of  Gyrene,  the  Country  of  the  Poet  Cailimachus,  who  calls  it 
the  Mother  of  good  Horfes :    and  indeed  at  this  very  time  the  finefl: 
Barbs  of  Africa  come  from  the  Kingdom   of  Barca  or  Cyrene  ;    for  this 
Kingdom  has  borrow'd  its  Name  from  the  antient  City  of  Bare e. 

ST R  A  BO,  who  places  Ther  a  between  Crete  and  Egypt,  allows  it  butJbid. 
25  miles  compafs,  and  fays  it  is  inform  very  long.     Things  are  mightily 
chang'd  fure,  fince  that  time.     Ther  a  lies  between  Cand/a  and  the  Cycla- 
ses ;  it  is  j 6  miles  about,  and  in  figure  is  exactly  like  a  Horfe-Shoe.     As 
for  its  Situation,  the  PalTage  in  Strabo  muft  be  corrected  by  that  of  his 

Compiler,  who  places  Ther  a  between  Crete  and  Cynuru,  a  Region  of  the  Ste?h-  Byzam. 

r\  A    ~  v>i     Kea!l  &w*et** 


204.  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Peloponnesus,  belonging  to  the  Lacedemonians.     As  for  the  Figure  or  Form 
of  it,  no  wonder  itreprefents  a  Half-moon ;  for  fuch  confiderable  Changes 
have  happen'd  in  its  Neighbourhood,  that  this  is  but  a  fmall  matter.     Be- ' 
fides  the  Mutation  of  its  Form,  it  has  gain'd  eleven  miles  in  length 
more  than  it  had  in  Strabo's  days ;  but  then  it  has  loft  all  its  fine  Towns, 
Lib.  4.         of  which  Herodotus  fays  there  were  no  fewer  than  feven.     It  muft  like- 
wife  have  been  confiderable  for  its  Power,  fince  Thera  and  Melos  were  the 
only  places  that  in  the  famous  War  of  Peloponnefus  durft  declare  for  the 
Lacedemonians  againft  the  Athenians,'  who  had  all  the  other  Ifles  of  Greece 
on  their  fide. 
Wftory  of  the      THE  Revolution  of  the  Greek  Empire,  after  the  taking  of  Conftan- 
Archinia«o. *  tinople  by  the  French  and  Venetians,  occafion'd  the  annexing  of  Santorin 
to  the  Dutchy  of  Naxia  ;  but  John  Crifpo,  who  was  the  twelfth  Duke  there- 
of, yielded  it  up  to  Prince  Nicholas  his  Brother,  who  was  calPd  the  Lord 
of  Santorin.     It  was  united  to  the  Dutchy  after  the  death  of  William 
Crifpo,  the  fifteenth  Duke,  who  by  Will  appointed  for  Succeflbr  the  Lord 
of  Santorin  his  Nephew :  it  was  afterwards  mortgaged  to  the  Lord  of 
Nio,  by  James  Crifpo  the  feventeenth  Duke  of  the  Archipelago,  who  was 
fain  to  borrow  excefilve  Sums  to  carry  on  the  War  againft  Mahomet  II.  in 
that  famous  League  he  was  enter'd  into  with  the  Venetians  and  the  King  of 
Perfia.     Laftly,  Santorin  furrender'd  it  felf  to  Barbaroffa  under  Solyman  II. 
ri  N»ffi  *»«        IT  is  no  eafy  matter  to  find  out  when  the  Ifle  of  Thera  took  the  name 
dyt'M  'E;f,',-    of  smt^rmi .  but  in  all  likelihood  'tis  deriv'd  from  that  of  St.  Irene  the 


w, 


sanftx  Irenes.  Patronefs  of  the  Ifle,  and  from  Sant-Erini  'tis  become  Santorin.     This 

Saint  was  of  Thejfalonica,  and  fuffer'd  Martyrdom  on  the  firft  of  April  in 

3  04,  under  the  ninth  Consulate  of  Diode  fan,  and  the  eighth  of  Maximian 

Hercules :  the  Latin  Church  obferves  it  as  a  Holiday  at  Santorin,  where 

are  ftill  nine  or  ten  Chappels  dedicated  to  St.  Irene, 

hmtviAiejui.        W  E  were  fet  afhore  at  Port  San  Nicole  below  Apanomeria,  which  is  on 

the  left  as  you  enter  the  Port.     We  were  very  much  tired  in  getting  to 

the  Town,  for  it  is  not  to  be  imagin'd  how  fteep  the  way  is.     The  other 

t3  Kd<rejv  to  Towns  of  this  Ifland  are  Scaro  or  Caflro,  Pyrgos,  Emporio  or  Nebrio,  and 

2>»'f«'  Acrotiri,  fituated  on  the  left  fide  of  the  Port  oppofite  to  that  of  Apano- 

tpirieiot.       meria.     This  Port  is  like  a  Half-moon  in  form  ;  as  fine  a  Port  as  it  looks 

hKcyriw       to  be,  no  Ship  can  anchor  in  it,  for  no  bottom  could  ever  yet  be  fovthd 

by 


Defer ipt ion  of  the  IJland  of  Santorin.  205 

by  the  Plumb-line :  it  has  two  Entrances,  one  at  the  South-Weft,  the  Letter  VL 
other  at  the  Weft-North- Weft,  under  fhelter  of  the  fmall  Ifle  of  Tbira-  '^^^^ 
fta,  feparated  from  Santorin  by  the  Port  of  San  Nicolo,  a  fmall  Strait 
where  Boats  ply  :  over  againft  the  other  Entrance,  there  are  three  Rocks 
lefs  than  Thirafia.     '  The  white  Ifland  is  out  of  the  Port,  the 2  fmall  Ifland  '  ^tt^iW. 
is  within,  and 5  Burnt  Ifland  is  fituated  between  'em  both  :  the  latter  re-  *™'laJmS  ^ 
ceiv'd  a  confiderable  Increafe  in  1427,  the  25th  of  November,  as  is  re-  P6* 
corded  in  fome  Latin 4  Verfes  graved  on  a  Marble  at  Scaro  near  the  Church  ,  DT^T'- 

<J  Reported  in 

Of  the    JeluitS.  the  Relation  of 

'TIS  laid  all  thefe  Iflands  role  from  the  bottom  of  the  Sea.     What  a  Father Ri- 
frightful  fight  to  lee  the  teeming  Earth  bring  forth  fuch  unwieldy  Bur- chards' 
dens  !    What  prodigious  Force  mult  there  needs  be,  to  move  'em,  dis- 
place 'em,  and  lift  'em  above  the  Water  !     No  wonder  the  Port  of  San- 
torin has  no  bottom  :  the  Hollow  whence  that  Ifland  iflu'd,  muft  by  me- 
chanical Neceflity  at  the  lame  time  have  been  occupy'd  by  a  like  Bulk  of 
Water.     What  Shocks,  what  Concuflions  muft  have  been  excited  in  the 
Neighbourhood  of  it,  when  this  Abyfs  lb  of  a  fudden  fill'd  it  felf  up  again  ! 
Sure  this  new  Ifland  was  not  call'd  by  the  name  of  Beautiful  till  long  after 
its  birth  ;  for  emerging  as  it  did  out  of  the  Waters,  it  could  be  nothing  elfe 
but  a  Mafs  of  Stone  cover'd  over  with  Slime  and  Mud :  numbers  of  Years 
muft  have  been  requifite  to  the  forming,  out  of  thole  Subftances,  a  Soil 
proper  for  Production  ;  I  can't  imagine  whence  it  got  the  Seeds  of  Plants 
it  was  adorn'd  with. 

THERASU,  fays  Pliny,  was  loofen'd  from  it  afterwards;  the  Re-  Hfft.  Nat. 
femblance  of  the  Name  is  the  caufe  that  many  have  taken  Thirefia,  a  bale      4* cap" I2, 
Rock  feparated  from  Samorin  by  the  Port  of  San  Nicolo,  for  Pliny's  new 
Ifland.     I  can't  help  fulpedting  that  the  Antients  call'd  Tberajia  the  white 
Ifland,  and  gave  the  name  of  Hiera  to  Thirefia  :  if  my  Conjecture  is  falfe, 
all  the  Authors  that   have  mention' d    the  Tranfa&ions  between  Thera 
and  Tberajia,  have  been  under  a  miftake,  except  Strabo,  who  alone  has  RemmGeog. 
call'd  by  the  name  of  Therafia  the  Ifle  of  Chriftiana ;  otherwife  that  Au- 
thor had  ill  exprefs'd  himfelf,  in  faying  that  Tbera  is  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Aiiapbe  and  of  Therafia,  fince  Jnapbe  is  18  miles  diftance  from  it.     Pto-  Ge0„.  ^,j 
lemy  has  placed  a  Town  on  Therafia  ;  certainly  it  muft  not  have  been  on  "P-1^ 
the  prefent  Thirafia,  which  has  not  extent  enough  to  build  a  Caftle  on. 

*  THIS 


2o6  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Qukft.Nat.  THIS  Obfervaticn  may  help  to  juftify  Seneca,  who  refers  to  his  time 
'  "?,*!'  the  Apparition  of  the  Ifle  of  Thaufta  :  this  likewife  mews  that  Pliny  was 
not  Cotemporary  with  Strabo,  nor  confequently  with  Diofcorides,  fince 
befides  his  fpeaking  of  Tberafia  as  a  Spot  of  Ground  bran-new,  torn  from 
the  lfle  of  Tbera  by  the  Violence  cf  the  Sea,  he  alio  advances,  that  the 
Rock  Automate  or  Hiera  appear'd  to  view  fome  time  after  between Tbera 

Hift.  Nat.  and  Tberapa.  How  can  this  Paffage  of  Pliny  be  explain'd,  if  we  take  the 
cap'7  '  Rock  of  Tbirajia  for  the  Tberafia  of  that  Author  ?  For  'tis  certain  that 
between  Santorin  and  Thirefia  there's  only  the  Port  of  San  Nicolo,  where 
there  would  not  be  room  fo  much  as  for  a  fingle  Rock  of  any  bulk.  In  our 
days,  continues  Pliny,  has  been  feen  ifluing  out  of  the  Sea  another  Rock 
call'd  Tbia,  juft  by  Hiera  :  Would  it  be  going  too  far,  to  take  for  granted 
thefe  two  Rocks  to  be  Tbirefia  and  Cammeni,  fuppofing  that  Afpronifi  is 
the  real  Tberafia  of  the  Antients  ? 

THE  Situation  of  all  thefe  Rocks  can't  otherwife  be  comprehended : 

'  Lib.  30.       '  'Jufti'h  f°r  example,  reports  that  there  was  lb  great  an  Earthquake  be- 

«p.4-  tween  the  Ifles  of  Tbera  and  Tberafia,  that  a  new  Ifland  was  with  great 

•  in  notis  ad  admiration  beheld  fpringing  forth  amidlt  the  hot  Water.  '  Father  Har- 
iib.2"  Hift.  doiitn  has  perfectly  well  corrected  Plinfs  Text  upon  the  Origin  of  Tbera. 
Nat  Dm.       3  Yy-wn  Qajjjtts  fpeaks  barely  of  the  Apparition  of  a  fmall  Iiland,  which 

♦  in  Claud.    fhew'd  it  fclf  near  Tbera  in  Claudius's  time.     4  Jurelius  Victor  fays,  it  was 

confiderable ;  and  Syncellus,  who  places  it  in  the  46th  Year  after  Chrift, 
aiTigns  it  between  Tbera  and  Tberafia :  laflly,  Ptolemy  places  a  Town  on 
Tberafia. 
Compend.  CEDRENVS  fays,  that  in  the  tenth  Year  of  Leo  the  Ifaurian,  that 

Chrift.  713.  grand  Iconoclaft,  there  appear'd  for  fome  days  together  lb  thick  a  Dark- 
ncfs  between  Tbera  and  Tberafia,  that  it  feem'd  as  if  a  burning  Kiln  or 
Furnace  was  rifing  up :  this  cloudy  Subftance  incraffated  and  harden'd  it 
felf  arnidft  the  Flames,  after  which  it  faften'd  on  the  Ifle  Hiera,  and  in- 
creas'd  the  bulk  thereof.  Mean  time  there  were  cad  up  luch  quantities 
of  Pumice  Stones,  as  cover'd  the  Coafts  of  Macedon  and  Afia  Minor,  even 
as  far  as  the  Dardanelles.  Cedrenus  has  done  nothing  more  than  copy 
Theoph.chro-  Tbeopbanes  and  Nicepborus ;  the  firft  refers  this  Facl;  to  the  Year  712 
the  other  to  720. 

THE 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Santorin.  207 

THE  Natives,  tho  very  ignorant,  fail  not  to  acquaint  Strangers  Letter  VL 
that  all  the  petty  Rocks  about  this  Ifland  were  brought  into  the  World  ^-'^^^^ 
by  Earthquakes.     We  learn  from  Father  Richard  the  Year  when  the  lit-  Rcbt;  ?e. 

J  x  Sant-tnnu 

tie  burnt  Ifland  appear'd ;  his  Words  are  thefe :  "  There  are  many  old 

*'  Men  in  this  Ifland,  who  affirm  they  law  an  Ifland  form  it  ielf  by  Fire 

<*  in  the  middle  of  the  Sea,  in  the  Year  1575.  which  Illand  was  tbere- 

"  fore  call'd  Micri  Cammeni,  that   is  to  fay,  Little  Burnt  I/land"     Now 

we're  Ipeaking  of  Fire,  Strabo  lays  that  the  Sea  was  obferv'd  to  boil  four  j^mm  Ge0S- 

days  together,  between  Thera  and  Therafia  ;  that  it  cad  forth  flames,  and 

that  an  Ifland,  1500  paces  in  compafs,  manifeftly  appear'd,  as  if  it  had 

been  pluck'd  up  from  the  bottom  of  the  Water  by  Engines. 

M.  TH  EVE  NOT  relates  fomething  like  what  is  recounted  by  Theo-  R^f-  cap.68» 
pbanes,  Nicephoruty  and  Ceirsnus  ;  namely,  that  about  53  Years  ago  a 
prodigious  quantity  of  Pumice-Stones  was  feen  to  ariie  from  out  of  the 
Port  of  Santorin  ;  that  they  afcended  from  the  bottom  of  the  Sea  with 
fuch  noife  and  impetuofity,  that  one  would  have  thought  'em  to  be  the 
Burfls  of  Cannon.  At  Scio,  above  200  miles  from  the  place,  they  fan- 
cy'd  the  Venetian  Army  was  fighting  the  Turks,  Thefe  Pumice-Stones- 
flew  lb  thick  on  the  Coafts  of  the  Levant  Sea,  that  the  Inhabitants  of 
the  Iflands  make  no  manner  of  doubt  they  came  from  Santorin. 

AS  for  the  Formation  of  Iflands  now  under  confideration,  can  any 
thing  be  more  demonftrative  than  what  we  find  in  the  publick  News  from 
Conjiantinople  ?  "  In  November  lafl^  1707,  the  fubtcrranean  Fires  pro-  Gazette  <.f 
u  duced  at  Santorin  an  Ifland,  already  two  miles  in  circuir,  and  was 
"  actually  growing  bigger  the  firft  of  December  by  additional  Rocks,  and 
w  other  new  Matter  which  the  Flames  coutinu'd  to  caft  forth.  The 
"  Burning  was  preceded  by  violent  Earthquakes,  follow'd  by  a  thick 
"  Smoke,  which  iflu'd  out  of  the  Sea  in  the  day-time,  and  Flames  in  the 
"  night-time,  and  accompany'd  with  terrible  Noiies  under  ground."  To 
this  may  be  adc!ed  the  appearing  of  a  new  Ifland  out  of  the  Sea,  amiofl:  a  Not.  in  r>io»,_ 
dreadiul  Hurricane  in  10 58,  near  the  Ifland  of  St.Micbxel,  one  of  the 
Azores :  Gaffendu*  reports  this  new  Illand  to  be  three  Leagues  in  lengthy 
and  one  and  a  half  in  breadth. 

I T  is  high  tame  we  entePd  into  a  more  exact  Detail  of  the  Lie  of 
S*stj>rin.    Nothing  is.  more  dry  and  barren  than  its  Soil ;  and  yet  tho  \is 

all 


;i 


208  ^  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

all  a  mere  Pumice,  the  Inhabitants  by  Labour  and  Ingenuity  have  made  a 
peifed:  Orchard  of  the  mod  ungrateful  Spot  of  Ground  in  the  World ; 
and  however  dilagreeable  its  Coaft  may  be,  yet  is  Santorin  a  Jewel  com- 
pared to  the  Iflands  about  it :  whereas  in  Nanfio,  not  above  eighteen  miles 
from  it,  you  fee  nothing  but  Thirties  and  Brambles,  tho  the  Land  is  na- 
turally excellent.  Santorin  affords  indeed  little  Wheat,  but  a  deal  of  Bar- 
ley, abundance  of  Cotton,  and  Wine  in.  profufion  :  this  Wine  has  the 
colour  of  Rheniih,  but  it  is  potent  and  fpirituous ;  'tis  exported  to  all 
parts  of  the  Archipelago,  and  as  far  as  Confiantinople :  the  main  Trade  of 
the  Ifland  confifts  in  this  Liquor  and  their, Cotton  Manufactures.  The 
Women  here  are  bufy'd  in  cultivating  the  Vineyards,  while  their  Hut 
.  bands  are  abroad  felling  their  Wines.  The  befl  Vineyards  are  in  a  Plain 
beyond  Pyrgos  at  the  foot  of  the  Mountain  of  St.  Stephen ;  their  way  of 
Culture  is  much  like  that  of  Provence :  their  Cotton  comes  in  a  Shrub  like 
our  Gooleberry-Trees ;  they  don't  pluck  'em  up  every  Year,  as  is  prac- 
tis'd  in  the  other  Iflands  :  it  is  the  fame  Species  with  that  which  Bauhinus 
calls  Herb-Cotton,  and  which  he  has  diftinguifh'd  from  Shrub-Cotton. 

FRUIT  is  fcarce  in  this  Ifland,    except  Figs:    they  fetch  their  Oil 

from  Candia,  and  Wood  from  Raclia ;  the  Scarcity  of  the  latter  is  the 

realbn  of  their  hardly  ever  eating  new  Bread  in  Santorin  :  generally  fpeak- 

ing,  they  make  Barley-Bread,  and  this  but  three  or  four  times  in  the 

■  Ziclozf  from  Year ;  it  is  a  black  forry  fort  of  '  Bifcuit.     They  kill  Beeves  but  at  one  time 

Sndof^*"' of  the  Year;  after  they  have  cut  them  to  pieces  and  boned 'em,  they  fee 

cMtfi  the^s    ^  YXeQn.  to  fl.eep  jn  Vinegar  wherein  Salt  has  been  difTolv'd  :  this  Fle/h 

no  eating  em  11 

without  break-  expos'd  in  the  Sun  feven  or  eight  months,  grows  as  hard  as  Wood  ;  fome 
eat  it  dry,  others  boil  it. 

THERE  are  reckon'd  to  be  in  Santorin  ioooo  Souls:  befides  the 
Towns  noted  upon  our  Plan,  there  are  five  populous  Villages,  Carte- 
rado,  Mafferia,  Votona,  Gonia,  and  Megalo-Chorio.  The  Inhabitants  ol 
this  Ifland  are  all  Greeks  ;  you  never  hear  the  Name  of  a  Turk  mention'd. 
but  when  they  fpeak  of  the  Taxes.  In  1700,  they  paid  4000  Crowns  to 
the  Capitation,  and  6000  to  the  Land-Tax.  Among  the  Greeks,  there'i 
not  above  a  third  of  the  Inhabitants  who  follow  the  Latin  Way  of  Wor/hip . 
the  Gentry  live  at  Scaro,  a  fmall  Town  built  at  the  further  end  of  the  Port  on 
a  Rock  that  ftands  almoft  by  it  felf,  and  very  rugged  ;  here  too  the  Conful 

ol 


Defer iption  of  the  IJland  of  Santorin.  209 

of  France  refides,  and  the  Jefuits  have  a  good  Houfe  :  Sophiano  Bifhop  of  Letter  Vh 
Santorin  reftored  them  thither  in  1642,  and  gave  'em  the  place  of  the  Ducal  Relation  tf^ 
Chappel  to  build  a  Church  on.     We  were  handfomly  treated  by  their  Sa"t'Er""' 
Superiour  ;  he  diftributes  Medicines  very  mccefsfully  as  well  as  charita- 
bly.    However  holy  and  zealous  the  Miffionaries  be,  it  were  to  be  wifh'd 
there  were  but  one  fort  of  Religious  in  each  Ifland :  Experience  mews 
that  the  Chriftian  Religion  is  propagated  and  maintain'd  with  more  Edi- 
fication in  Syr  a,  where  there  are  none  but  Capuchins,  and  in  Santorin 
I \  where  there  are  none  but  Jeiuits,  than  in  thofe  Iflands  where  there  are  of 
both  forts.     The  two  Biiliops  of  the  Ifland,  one  whereof  is  a  Greek,  the 
pother  a  Latin,  refided  at  Scaro  when  we  arrived  there :  there  is.  in  the 
lame  Town  a  Curate,  and  five  or  fix  Canons  of  our  Communion.     The 
Greek  Nuns   of  the  Order  of  St.  Bajil,  are  2  5  in  number ;  the  Latin  but 
I15,  and  follow  the  Rule  of  St.  Dominic k  :  thefe  Nuns  make  the  bell  Cal- 
licoes  in  the  Country ;  they  are  carry'd  to  Candia,  the  Morea,  and  to  all 
,   parts  of  the  Archipelago. 

THE  Cadi  of  Santorin  is  fometimes  itinerant ;  when  he  refides  in  the 

Ifland,  'tis  commonly  at  Pyrgos,   the  prettied  Town  in  all  the  Ifland, 

ii;built  on   a  rifing  ground,  from  whence  you  difcern  two  Seas,  and  the 

:.  ;5neft  Vineyards  in   the  world  :   there  wants   nothing  but  Water,   of 

nvhich  there  is  but  one  Spring  in  the  whole  Country,  (on  the  Moun- 

c  ;.ain  of  St.  Stephen)  and  that  but  a  forry  one.     'Tis  true,  they  every  where 

lave  places  to  receive  and  *eep  Rain-water  dug  in  the  Pumice,  and  well- 

i:emented.    Molt  of  the  Houfes  are  Caverns  dug  in  the  fame  Stone,  like 

.Jadgers  Holes,  or  thofe  fort  of  Chymical  Furnaces  call'd  Athanors :  they  riie**> 

it  arch'd  over  with  very  light  Stones,  reddiih,  which  look  to  be  a  half- 

mmice.     The  Coaft  of  the  Port  is  the  moft  frightful  of  any ;  not  lb  much 

s  a  Blade  of  Grafs  to  be  leen,  and  the  Rocks  of  the  colour  of  Iron  Drofs. 

THE  feventh  of  October  we  went  to  the  Mountain  of  St. Stephen,  fb yo#f  & *y* 
:alPd  from  a  Chappel  dedicated  to  that  Saint.  It  is  very  extraordinary,  ^'P*1"*' 
0  fee  a  Block  of  Marble  grafted,  as  one  may  fay,  on  Pumice-Stone. 
)id  it  afcend  from  the  bottom  of  the  Waters,  or  has  it  been  found  fince 
he  birth  of  the  Ifland  ?  There  is  ftill  to  be  feen  on  one  of  its  little  Hills 
t  the  foot  of  a  Rock,  the  Rubbiih  of  an  antient  Town,  and  the  Ruins 
f  a  marblc-column'd  Temple.  It  may  have  been  that  of  Neptune,  built 
Vol.  I.  E  e  there 


K 


210  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

on  the  fourth  there  by  the  Rhcdians ;  but  the  Scholiaft  of  Pindar  obferves,  that  there 
was  another  of  Minerva,  and  that  the  Ifland  of  Thera  was  confecrated 
Comment  to  Apollo  :  and  therefore  Pindar  calls  it  a  Holy  Ifland.  Trijlanas  mentions 
pag.  695.  a  Medal  of  Ve nus,  on  the  Reverfe  whereof  is  reprefented  a  fort  of  Boun- 
Legend.  dary-God,  which  that  Author  fufpe&s  to  be  the  Figure  of  Jupiter,  God 
zet2   o-   of  Confines  or  Limits. 

jiJre/Sn-'  HERE  follow  the  Infcriptions  that  are  found  among  the  Ruins  of 
terminus.  tne  fineft  '  Town  of  the  Iiland,  confiderable  even  when  Rome  was  in  its 
$  "ow.  Pwi.  Glory,  fince  it  had  leave  to  confecrate  Monuments  to  its  Emperors. 

Geog.  lib.  3. 

*»P»  J5-  T  I  B  E  P  I  O  N       K  A  A  T  A  I  O  N 

K  A  I  2  A  P  A      2EBA2TON 

TEPMANIKON      K0IPAN02 

ATNO20ENOT2      RAI       OTIOS 

ATTOr      ArNO20ENH2 

TI1EP       TOT       AHMOT. 

Coeranus  Son  of  Agnoflhenes,  and  Agnoflhenes  his  Son,  in  the  Name  of 
the  People  teflify  their  Attachment  for  Tiberius,  Claudius,  Casfar,  Auguftus, 
Germanicus. 

ATTOKPATORA      KAI2APA      MAPKON 
A  T  P  H  A  I  O  N       ANTnNEINON 

2EBA2TON 

f 
H      B  O  T  A  H      K  A  I      O      A  H  M  O  S 

O       ©HPAIHN 


THN       EniMEAElAN       KAI      THN 
ANA2TA2IN      nOIHjAMENfiN 
APXONTQN        A2KAHnlAAOr         B~ 
KAI      KOIHTOT      B~     KAI      AAEsANAPOT 
ET*POSTNOT      IEPA2AMENOT 

noATOTXOr    b~ 

Under  Afclepiades  and  Quietus,  Magiftrates  for  the  fecond  time,  with  Alex 
ander  Son  of  Euphrofynus,  the  Senate  and  People  of  the  Ifland  of  Then 
have  caused  to  be  eretted  the  Statue  of  the  Emperor  Caelar,  Marcus  Aurelius, 
Antoninus,  Auguftus,   confecrated  by  Polyuchus  the  High  Priett  for  the 
fecond  time. 

'TIS 


If 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Santorin.  2 1 1 

»TI  S  faid  the  Fragments  of  the  Statue  are  not  far  from  the  Infer  iption ;  LetterVI 
)ut  this  Statue  is  without  a  Head. 


w/-v^w» 


ATTOKPATOPA      K  A  I  2  A  P  A 
A.     2  E  n  T  I  M  I  O  N       2  E  B  H  P  O  N 
nEPTINAKA      2EBA2TON 
H       BOTAH       KAI       O       A  H  M  O  2 
O      0  H  P  A  I  n  N. 


"he  Senate  and  the  People  of  Thera  affure  the  Emperor  Caelar,  L.  Septimius 
everus,  Pertinax,  Auguftus,  of  their  perfect  Devotednefs. 

ATTOKPATOPA      KAI2ARA      M.    A  T  P  H  A  I  O  N 
2EBHPON      ANTQNEINON      ET2EBH 
2EBA2TON      APABIKON      AilABHNIKON 
nAPGIKON      TEPMANIKON      METI2TON 
H       BOTAH       KAI       O       A  H  M  O  2       O       ©HPAIQN 
APXI2.      M.     ATP.     I20KAE0T2      A2KAHITIAAOT 

TOB      KAI      AT  P. 
KAEOTEAOT2     TTPANNOT     KAI    ATR.     *TAOsENOT 
ABA2KANTOT    THN    tlPONOIAN    TH2    nAPASKEBHS 
KAI     TH2     ANA2TA2ER2     TOT      ANaPIANTOS     nOIH" 

2AMEN0T 
TOT     nPOTOT     APX0NT02     ATR.    I20KAE0T2    TO    £ 


nder  the  Magifirates  M.  Aurelius  Ilbcleus,  Son  of  Afclepiades ;  Aurelius 
ieoteles,  Son  of  Tyrannus ;  and  Aurelius  Philoxemus,  Son  of  Abafcan- 
s ;  by  order  of  the  Senate  and  People  of  Thera,  Aurelius  Ifocleus,  Chief 
agiftrate  for  the  fecond  time,  has  with  Expence  both  of  Time  and  Mony,  erected 
j  Statue  of  the  thrice  mighty  Emperor  Casfar,  Marcus  Aurelius,  Severus 
■onions  Pius,  Auguftus,  Arabicus,  Adiabenicus,  Parthicus,  Germanicus. 

ATP.  TTXACIOC   TON   nATEPA 
KAI   EAnlZOTCA   TON   I  A  I  O  N 
STMBION   TTXACION 
A  #  H  P  n  I  2  A  N. 

tjrelius  Tychafius  for  his  Father,  and  Elpizoufe  for  her  dear  Husband  Ty« 
afius,  confecrate  the  Tefiimonies  of  their  mutual  Love. 

Ee  2  KAPnos 


212  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

KAPnOS       TAN 

I  A  I  A  N       TTNAIKA 

SHEIAA     a*hpoisen 

T  H  2       MONANAPON. 

Carpus  has  confecrated  by  this  Monument  his  Love  towards  his  deareft  Wife 
Soeide,  who  had  no  other  Husband. 

I  COPY'D  thefe  Inscriptions  at  Paris  from  M.  Spon's  Collection  of 
curious  Antiquities.  Our  Guides  at  Santorin  had  not  the  Wit  to  conduct 
us  to  the  noble  Ruins  of  the  Ifland ;  fo,  after  we  had  view'd  the  Chappel 
of  St.  Stephen,  they  perfuaded  us  we  had  feen  whatever  was  worth  Obfer- 
vation  in  that  Country  :  mean  while  the  Weather  was  fo  very  tempting 
for  us  to  go  to  Nanfio,  that  our  Mariners  advis'd  us  to  lay  hold  of  the 
opportunity. 

n  a  n  f  i  o.       tfj  NFIO  is  alfo  one  of  thofe  Iflands  which  made  part  of  the  Dutchv 

A  N  A  $  H»  ( 

A  nap  he.  of  Naxia,  under  the  Princes  of  the  Line  of  Sana  do  and  Crifpo.     James\ 
Hiftory  of  the  Crifpo,  the  twelfth  Duke,  who  may  juftly  be  (tiled  the  Pacifick,  gave 
jir Zfeiago.    this  Ifland  to  his  Brother  William,  who  rais'd  a  Fortrc-fs  there,  the  Ruins; 
whereof  are  yet  to  be  feen  on  a  Rock  above  the  Town :  he  was  Duke  ofll 
Naxia  after  his  Brother  'James  died;  his  only  Daughter  Florentia  Crifpo\ 
remain'd  Lady  of  Nanfio,  nor  was  the  Ifland  annex'd  to  the  Dutchy  till|i 
after  her  Death. 
membaia.        MEMBLIJROS  was  the  antient  Name  of  Nanfo,  a  Name  taken: 
from  Membliares,  a  Relation  of  Cadmus,  and  who  fettled  at  Thera  inftead 
of  following  that  Hero  in  his  Adventures.     The  Ifland  we  are  fpeaking  of 
Tok  3  Ajj*-   waS  namecj  jnAphe,  on  occafion  of  its  being  difcover'd  by  the  Argonauts. 
yja(wv°<  r&-  after  a  violent  Tempeft,  which  had  driven  'em  to  the  further  end  of  the 
*$l°wvnt*-  Archipelago;  it  was  no  very  great  catch  of  a  Difcovery,  the  Ifland  bein£ 
v^ccvh^o.  a-   k     flxteen  miies  about,  without  ever  a  Haven,  and  its  Mountains  bare  a; 
w/.  StePh>     a  Bone  :  yet  is  it  not  deftitute  of  noble  Springs,  fufficient  to  fertilize  th< 
Fields,  with  ever  to  little  Application  and  Ingenuity. 

ALL  the  Inhabitants  are  of  the  Greek  Communion,  and  under  th< 
Bifhop  of  Siphno  \  there  are  no  Turks  nor  Latins  among 'em:  the  Cad 

anc 


.Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Nanfio.  213 

and  Waivod  go  the  Circuits.    They  are  an  idle  fort  of  People,  and  their  Letter  VI. 
whole  Trade  confifts  in  Onions,  Wax,  and  Honey  :  as  for  Wood,  I  don't  -^^^^^ 
think  there's  enough  to  roaft  the  Partridges  the  Country  affords  ;  there 
are  fuch  prodigious  numbers,  that  for  the  prefervation  of  the  Corn,  they 
take  up  all  the  Eggs  they  can  light  of  about  Eajrer-tide,  and  they  gene- 
rally amount  to  ten  or  twelve  thoufand  :  they  ufe  'em  in  all  their  Sauces, 
in  Omelets  chiefly.     Yet  in  ipite  of  this  Precaution,  we  fprung  a  Covey 
every  foot ;  they're  of  a  very  antient  Breed,  and  came  from  '  AJlypalia  : '  Stampaiia. 
if  any  credit  may  be  given  to  Hegefonder,  a  Burgher  of  this  Ifland  brought  Athen.  Deipn. 
but  a  Brace  to  Anaphe ;  but  they  mukiply'd  ib  faft,  the  People  could  fcarce 
live  for  'em  :  for  which  reafbn  they  ever  fince  have  made  it  their  practice 
to  deftroy  the  Eggs. 

ONCE  a  year  they  chufe  two  Confuls,  lometimes  but  one:  thefe 
Magiftrates  had  not  Authority  enough  to  procure  us  Bacon  to  lard  our 
Partridges  ;  the  Greeks  know  nothing  of  larding ;  fo  we  were  forced  to 
cat  'em  half  boil'd,  half  roafled :  this  was  not  our  greatefl  grievance ;  we 
underflood  there  were  Banditti  hovering  about  the  Ifland,  efpecially  at 
Anophi-poula,  an  ugly  Rock  in  fight  of  the  Town.  A  Tartane  of  Mar- 
tigues  luckily  putting  in,  diflipated  our  Fears :  the  Mafter  made  us  a  Pre- 
fent  of  excellent  Wine  of  Cadiere  near  Toulon,  and  had  he  been  bound  to 
any  Ifland  of  the  Archipelago,  we  had  gone  along  with  him ;  lb  we  chofe 
rather  to  flay  and  roam  about  the  Ifland,  till  the  Banditti  had  quite  clear'd 
the  Coafl. 

TO  the  Sea,  Southward,  going  to  the  Chappel  of  '  our  Lady  of  the '  rw*,/« 
Bull-ruin,  you  fee  upon  a  fmall  Rifing  the  Ruins  of  a  Temple  of  Apollo  >  KeJ  ^^mv 
3  Egletes  or   Refulgent.     Strabo,  who  [peaks  of  this  Temple,   fays  not  *?£*  Az*v» 
upon  what  occafion  it  was  built ;  it  is"4  Cotton  we  learn  it  from  :  accor-  yhfrnhxA- 
ding  to  him,  Jo-fin's  Fleet  in  its  Return  from  Colchis  was  overtaken  with  strah.  R?r? 
'  fo  terrible  a  Storm,  they  had  no  Reiburce  but  Vows  and  Prayers.     Apollo  ^|^b^°" 
:  was  gracioufly  •  pleas'd  to  relieve  fo  many  Heroes  ;  and  accordingly  a  g°r- 
1  '  Thunderbolt  from  Heaven  falling  into  the  Sea,  immediately  rais'd  up  an  t    """•  **• 
Ifland  for  their  reception ;  upon  which  they  erected  an  Altar  to  Apollo,  cem  edo, 
the  Saviour  of  the  Argonauts  :  they  return'd  their  thanks  to  that  God,  ^(" coms 
amidil  an  Affluence  of  Wine  and  good  Cheer.     Medea  and  the  Ladies  of 
her  Court  perform'd  the  Honours  of  the  Feftival :  Wine  and  Joy  infpired 
I  '  *  'em 


<2 1  a  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

'em  with  Flights  of  Wit  and  facetious  Repartees ;  the  Heroes,  fays  Cow//, 
were  the  Butt  of  all  the  Railleries ;  for  betraying  their  Fear  in  the  Storm, 
'tis  like :  the  whole  Night  was  fpent  in  Sallies  of  this  kind.  Conon  adds, 
that  after  this  Ifland  was  peopled,  the  Inhabitants  celebrated  the  Anni- 
veriary  of  this  Efcape,  by  iacrificing  to  Apollo :  there  was  no  want  of 
Wine,  nor,  according  to  the  Spirit  of  the  Inftitution,  could  Pleafantry 
be  mining  :  the  Greeks  are  admirable  Fencers,  where  Wit's  the  Weapon. 

THE  Ruins  of  this  Temple  confift  in  fome  pieces  of  Marble  Co- 
lumns :  there  is  a  beautiful  Architrave,  with  a  very  long  Infcription ;  men- 
tioning, belike,  this  Story  of  Conors,  but 'tis  fb  worn,  there's  no  making 
any  thing  on't.  Not  far  off,  is  built  a  Chappel,  with  the  Materials  of 
the  Temple.  The  Marble  Quarry  is  hard  by,  at  the  foot  of  one  of  the 
moil  frightful  Rocks  I  ever  faw,  and  on  which  Hands  a  Chappel  of  the 
Virgin.  In  the  Neighbourhood  you  alfo  fee  the  Ruins  of  a  noble  Edi- 
fice of  Marble,  which  looks  to  be  none  of  the  moil  antique,  but  of  the 
time  of  the  Dukes  of  Naxia, 

AFTER  we  had  fcaled  this  Rock,  we  rang'd  through  fuch  places  of 
the  Ifland,  as  afforded  beft  matter  for  Simpling :  I  there  obferv'd  the  Fa- 
gonia  Cretica  fpinofa.  Inft.  Rei  Herb,  which  is  not  much  more  prickly 
than  that  I  met  with  in  Spain,  in  the  Kingdom  of  Granada,  and  which  I 
call'd  Fagotti*  Hifpanica,  non  fpinofa.  Inft.  'Tis  my  opinion,  thefe  two 
Kinds  are  but  Varieties  of  the  fame  Plant. 

BEING  lure  the  Banditti  were  gone  off",  we  prepared  to  pais  over  to 
Stampalia,  an  Ifland  forty  miles  from  Nanfio,  between  the  Eaft  and  Eaft- 
North-Eaft ;  but  the  Wind  being  againft  us,  we  were  forced  to  go  to 
Mycone,  which  we  did  not  reach  till  the  2  2d  of  October,  after  putting  in  at 
ieveral  places. 

THE  Ifle  of  Mycone,  which  ftretches  from  Eaft  to  Weft,  is  36  miles 

about,  j  o  miles  from  Naxia,  40  from  Nicaria,  and  1 8  from  the  Port  of 

Tine ;  tho  the  Canal,  which  is  between  Cape  Trullo  of  Mycone  and  le  Tttte, 

is  but  1 8  miles  broad :  that  of  Mycone  at  Delos  is  no  more  than  three 

A     '    1      miles  from  Cape  Alogomandra  of  Mycone  to  the  neareft  point  of  Delos  : 

park  for       for  p/j>«    who  perhaps  counts  from  one  Port  to  another,  makes  it  but 

Horfes.  J  *  L  ' 

ngwjwa,      1 5  miles  to  this  Canal.     You  fee  there  the  two  fmall  Rocks  of  Prafonifi, 

lfit  of  Leek:.  which 


_/',r_. t.  -J.  1./  . 


S/,l/e  crt/a 


t  ■irrri*:si<ij  ft 


Jyh/3*lt?o*'a*rt.    -=" 


r<istT/i/s/ 


De/ov . 


fart S."~ Shan  . 


'I%s  greater  ^Dt:/cfz< .  <?r 


br&  of  <_yfo/>*i 


-T.l.'.JL 


- 

1 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  My  cone.  2 1 5 

which  MeiTieurs  Spon  and  Wheeler  took  to  be  Tragonifi  or  Dragonera,  ano-  Letter  VI. 
therRock  towards  the  Eaft-South-Eaft,  and  confequently  out  of  the  Canal  j^^yt 
we're  fpeaking  of.  of  Goats. 

THE  Port  of  Mycone  is  very  open,  and  lies  between  the  Well:  and 
Weft-North-Wcfl: ;  but  the  Gulph,  which  is  on  one  fide  the  Port,  and  is 
impervious,  is  deep  enough  for  the  largeft  Ships,  which  likewife  it  fecurcs 
from  the  North  Wind  by  means  of  a  natural  Jettee,  form'd  by  Rocks  on 
a  level  with  the  Water's  Surface.  You  enter  this  Gulph  between  the 
North  and  North-North- Weft :  the  Port  of  Ornos  is  oppofite  to  the  fur- 
ther end,  and  looks  between  the  South  and  South-South-Eaft.  The  Ifle 
of  St.  George  is  at  the  point  of  the  Gulph  on  the  right  hand  :  the  other  T^ofynvin,  rjk 
Ports  of  the  Ifland  are  Port  Palermo  and  Port  St.  Anne  ;  Port  Palermo  is  nat'w'feof 
a  very  large  one,  but  too  much  expos'd  to  the  North  Wind ;  Port  St.  Anne  Pon  ,0  ,f 

J         °  '  r  ceive  all  forts 

is  likewife  very  bleak,  and  looks  to  the  South-Eaft.  »/  ships. 

MTC ONE  produces  the  beft  Sailors  of  any  in  the  whole  Country  • 
there  are  at  leaft  500  fea-faring  Men  in  the  Ifland,  and  above  100  Barks, 
befides  40  or  50  large  Saicks  for  the  Trade  to  Turkey  and  the  More  a  :  that 
to  Turkey  confifts  in  Hides,  elpecially  of  '  Goats,  which  they  take  in  at  '  Cordouans. 
*  Siagi  near  Smyrna  and  Scalanova ;  the  Morea  Trade  at  prelent  lies  in  Wine,  *  Teos. 
which  the  Mycomots  fupply  the  Venetian  Army  with,  at  Napoli  di  Roma- 
nia.    There  are  fbrne  Saicks  of  Mycone,  which  carry  7  or  800  Barrels  of 
Wine,  each  Barrel  weighs  1 50  Pound  French ;  for  the  molt,  part,  'tis  mere  50  Oqu«s, 
colour'd  Water,  and  the  Venetians  pay  'em  accordingly :  the  Greeks  can't 
forbear  playing  their  tricks.     Mycone  ufaally  affords  25  or  50,000  Barrels  Authoiitasvi. 
of  Wine  a  year  :  the  Vine  has  been  very  antiently  cultivated  there.  TtinJn^iT 
M.Wheeler  bought  upon  the  fpot  a  Silver  Medal  with  J uf  iter's  Head  on  ^f'/'14' 
one  fide,  and  a  Bunch  of  Grapes  on  the  other.  mtk  o, 

THE  Ifland  of  Mycone  is  very  dry,  and  its  Mountains  of  no  great  >  H;ft  N 
height ;  the  two  mod  noted  are  call'd  by  the  Name  of  St.  Elijah :  one  is  ,,b-  4-  «p.i2. 
juft  by  Cape  Trullo,  as  you  enter  the  Canal  of  Mycone  and  of  Tine ;  the  iem' Myconum 
other  is  at  the  Extremity  of  Mycone,  over  againft  Tragonifi.  The  Name  £«°r*pe '« 
Dimaftos,  which '  Pliny  gives  to  the  higheft  Mountain  of  the  Ifland,  will  mtrfh.  ln>.j. 
quadrate  with  both  of  'em,  fince  each  has  a  forky  Summit.  I  Ovid,  who  12£jji 
in  his  Voyage  to  Pontus  had  a  nearer  View  of  Mycone  than  5  Virgil,  was  &  li,tora  cir- 

,  Clim  errantem, 

in  the  right  on't  to  fay  it  was  a  low  Ifland ;  whereas  Virgil  fays  quite  the  Mycone  ceifa, 

Gyaioque  re- 
^  COn-  yinxit.  JE.n.1, 


2  id 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 


lib.  10. 


'  Mvkuvhx 

Strab.  ibid. 

♦  Ad  Dionyf. 
verf.  526. 
1  Quippe  My- 
conii  carentes 
pilo  gignuntur 


contrary  :  not  but  that  Humilis  InfuU  may  likewife  be  taken  for  a  mean 
Myconos,  hit-  delpicable  Ifland,  as '  Statins  calls  the  Ifland  of  Seripho. 
pto?lS"i.      ST  R  J  BO  reports,  that  the  Poets  made  My  cone  to  be  the  Bury ing- 
'  n<w8'  dfo    place  of  the  Centaurs  defeated  by  Hercules  ;  whence  the  Proverb,  *  Every 
k  *•!  GeosT'"'  'thing  is  in  My  cone,  of  one  that  pretends  in  one  and  the  lame  Difcourfe 
to  touch  upon  all  things.     Stephens  the  Geographer,  who  copy'd  Strabo 
in    this   place,    as   in  many  others,   delivers,    that  this  Ifland  took  its 
Name  from  one  Myconus  Son  of  ALnius  ;  but  one  is  as  little  known  as 
t'other  :  'tis  a  common  thing  for  old  Authors  to  be  guilty  of  this  Error. 
The  Remark  of !  Strabo  and  4  Euftathius  is  much  better  warranted,  that 
the  Myconiots  were  apt  to  grow  bald,  fince  at  this  day  mod  of  the  In- 
habitants lofe  their  Hair  at  20  or  25  Years  old.     5  Pliny  has  another  Ob- 
■  fervation,  that  the  Children  are  born  without  Hair ;  for  all  that,  the  Inha- 
bitants are  a  very  handfome  comely  People :  they  were  heretofore  reckon'd 
w?«S.i7.  arrant  Parafites,  and  would  be  ftill  fo,  were  they  to  light  of  Cullies.     We 
read  in  Athenatts  Ibme  Verfes  of  Cratinus  not  much  in  their  praife,  but  he 
excules  them  on  account  of  their  Poverty. 

OUR  Franks  call  this  Ifland  Micouli ;  it  yields  enough  Barley  for  the 
Inhabitants,  abundance  of  Figs,  but  few  Olives :  Water  is  very  fcarce  in 
Summer ;  a  huge  Well  ferves  the  whole  "  Town,  which  is  the  only  one 
of  the  Ifland,  and  contains  fcarce  3  000  Souls  :  but  for  one  Man,  you  lee 
four  Women,  oftentimes  lying  among  the  Hogs  in  the  open  Street ;  the 
Men  ufe  the  Sea  very  much.  Two  Confals  are  named  every  year  to  take 
care  of  the  publick  Affairs.  In  1700,  the  Myconiots  paid  5000  Crowns  to 
the  Capitation  and  Land-Tax  :  the  Ifland  was  then  under  the  Government 
of  Mezomorto,  the  Captain-Bamaw  :  in  the  laft  War  it  was  under  the 
obedience  of  the  Bey  of  Stanchio,  call'd 7  Cajfidi,  who  at  this  time  has  the 
Command  of  fome  Galliots  to  fcour  the  Archipelago  of  petty  Rovers. 

STRANGERS  find  it pleafant  living  at Mycone,  provided  they  have 

a  good  Cook,  for  the  Greeks  are  the  word  in  the  world.     Partridges  are 

very  cheap  and   plentiful,    as  alfo  Quails,  Woodcocks,   Turtle-Doves, 

Rabbits,  Wheatears  ;    there  are  delicious   Grapes,   and   excellent  Figs. 

vi^aiuftf"  They  make  their  Salads  with  a  kind  of  !  Sowthiftle,    very  whetting 

fbiius   c.B.  t0  the  Appetite  when  the  Plate   is   rubb'd  with  Garlick.    The  Adra- 

Couejio  couiiil-  *  ' 

Hero.  lida 


•if; 


*  Muhovx  » 
<vbKlf.  Ptol 
Geog.  lib. : 
«.ap.  I?. 


1C 


'  Or  Scald- 
headed. 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Mycone.  2  r  7 

lida  '  and  the  Radice  '  are  much  in  repute  there  :  the  firfl  is  a  fort  of  Vi-  Letter  VI. 
pers-grals,  defence*!  in  a  preceding  Letter ;  the  Radice  is  prickly  Chico-  hko^n^ 
ry,  whofe  young  Shoots  naturally  grow  white  in  the  Sand  along  the  ^"ri^atlllJ 
Sea-fide.  In  time  of  Lent  they  make  a  good  Ragou  with  boil'd  Vrouhs ;  foljisvarie  la- 
the  People  here  make  delicious5  Cheefe:  their  pickled  Quails  are  execra-  infi.ReiHcrb, 
ble ;  they  reduce  thefe  Birds  in  Vinegar  to  a  fort  of  Pap  :  the  Natives  f f,df"/a* 

'  J  o  l    ?  Cichorium 

admire  'em,  becaufe  it  laves  the  Expence  of  Fire  to  drefs  'em.    The  Fewel  fpinofum.es. 
ufed  here  is  Under-wood  fetch'd  from  Delos.  'Pouino- 

MTCONE  was  fome  years  together  poifefs'd  by  the  Dukes  of  Naxia.  Hiftory  of  the 
Father  Sanger  fays,  that  John  Crifpo,  the  twentieth  Duke  of  the  Jrchipe-  Anfr'qtlap. 
logo,  gave  it  in  Marriage,  together  with  the  Ifle  of  ZJa,  to  his  Daugh- 
ter Thadde.t,  Wife  to  Francis  de  Sommerive,  who  enjoy'd  it  not  long-,  and 
the  Venetians  being  become  Mailers  of  Tinos,  found  Mycone  to  be  conve- 
nient for 'em,  and  fo  the  Proveditor  of  Tinos  is  to  this  very  day  caiTd 
Proveditor  of  Mycone.  Barbarojfa  the  Captain-Balhaw  reduced  it  to  the 
Obedience  of  Solyman  II.  with  almoft  all  the  Iflands  which  the  Repub- 
lick  had  in  the  Archipelago. 

IT  mull  not  be  forgot  here,  that  Mycone  and  Tinos  were  conquer'd  in  the 
Reign  of  the  Emperor  Henry  by  Andrew  Gi&i,  Ibme  years  after  the  taking 
oiConftantinople  by  the  French  and  Venetians.    Jerome  Gizi,  his  Brother,  had 
for  his  Allotment  Skyro  and  Scopoli.     From  this  Andrew  defcends  the  Sieur 
:  Janachi  Gizi,  fb  well  known  to  your  Lordlhip  for  his  Services,  and  for 
:  whom  you  have  procured  Patents  for  Conful  of  Mycone  and  of  Tinos ;  his 
1  Family  has  always  behaved  it  lelf  honourably  ever  fince  the  Latins  became 
1  Mailers  of  the  Empire  of  the  Eafl.     Our  Conful,  who  is  a  very  religious 
Perfon,  has  built  at  Mycone  a  Chappel  to  St.  Lewis ;  and  he  keeps  in  his 
;  Houfe  a  Prieil  of  our  Communion  to  lay  Mafs.     The  Latin  Church  of 
the  Burrough  depends  on  the  Bilhop  of  Tinos,  who  has  put  in  a  Curate, 
and  gives  him  25  Roman  Crowns  a  year  for  his  Stipend  ;  M.  Giz,irs  Chap- 
lain is  better  provided  for  :  not  that  the  Bilhop  of  Tinos  is  to  be  blamed, 
fince  the  4  Congregation  allows  no  more  to    the  Vicars  of  the  other  *  r>e  ptopa- 
Iflands :  nay,  fome  Biihops  allow  but  1 5  Crowns  a  year  to  their  Vicars,  §anda  fiJe* 
which  they  find  enow  ready  to  accept  of,  the  Priells  of  the  Archipelago 
being  very  eager  after  thefe  Polls,  that  they  may  live  honourably  at 
their  homes. 

VoL  I.  Ff  AS 


2i 8  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

AS  fox  Greek  Churches,  there  are  fifty  in  Mycone ;  each  has  its  Papa? 
and  almofl  all  the  Inhabitants  are  of  the  Greek  Rite :  there  is  but  one 
Turk;  and  he  the  Cadi,  who  goes  the  Circuits.  Thefe  Cadi's  purchafe  a 
Commiffion  of  the  Grand  Cadi  of  Scio,  and  then  range  the  whole  Archi- 
pelago ;  caufing  notice  to  be  given  wherever  they  pafs,  that  all  fuch  as 
have  any  Law-Suits  on  their  hands,  bring  their  Papers  or  WitnefTes,  and 
they  iliall  be  immediately  and  with  a  moderate  Charge  difpatch'd.  The 
Greeks,  who  are  naturally  litigious,  are  fuch  Fools  as  to  come  to  this  Tri- 
bunal, inftead  of  making  up  matters  amicably  before  the  Adminiftrators 
and  Papas. 
■  n****-  THERE  are  many  Chappels,  and  fbme  Monafteries,  at  Mycone.     •  Pa- 

TnmnZlurcb  leoca.jiria.ni  is  a  Nunnery  with  three  or  four  Nuns,  feated  near  the  middle 
cf  the  caftu.  Qf  ^  jflancj  about  *  Paleocafiro,  an  antient  decay'd  Fortrefs  on  a  pleafant 
JX&  ?  Ptol.  Hill.  The  Church  of  la '  Trinit'e  is  in  the  Circuit  of  Paleocafiro  :  that  of 
cap!SiV'  St.  Marina  is  not  far  off;  every  year  they  celebrate  (on  the  17th  of  July) 
jyU'TW  sH  a  Eighty  Feftival,  where  they  dance  and  drink  after  their  fafhiou,  that 
pfriP1-  r  is,  all  day  and  night  too.  On  the  fide  of  Paleocajiro,  in  a  fine  Plain  in 
j^*the  hv%  fight  of  Port  St.  Anne ,  is  the  great  Monaftery  of  ♦  Trulliani,  pofiefs'd  by 
Trinity.         ten  or  tweive  He-Caloyers  and  fbme  old  She-ones :  they  have  great  Pot 

*  TjkmwJ,  feflions  in  the  Plain  of !  Anomeria,  the  befl:  and  fruitfolleft  part  of  the 
IZclZdrli.  Ifland.  The  Convent  of  St.Pantaleon  is  on  this  fide  Paleocajiro,  near 
'Mo^k'^tbe  port  Palermo',  but  k  contains  not  above  three  or  four  Religious.     The 

•  n««j/«MS-  forfaken  Monafteries  are  that  of  the '  Virgin,  St.  George,  and  our  Saviour  J  i 
mva,,  the  vir-      BESIDES  the  Conful  of  France,  there's  one  for  England,  another  for 

£/»  of  Mycone.  7  -  ■,    ] 

lA)hi  Tt*>r    Holland,   tho  no  Ship  of  either  Nation  comes  thither :    but  the  Greeks     i 
''os\  fhelter  themfelves  from  the  Tyranny  of  Turks,   under  covert  of  fuch 

Patents.  The  French  Ships  bound  to  Smyrna  and  Confiantinople  pafs  the 
Canal  of  Tinos  and  of  Mycone,  fleering  between  the  North  and  North- 
Eaft  :  in  foul  Weather  they  ufually  put  in  at  Mycone,  to  get  intelligence 
about  the  War.  The  ordinary  Route  of  the  Englifo  and  Dutch  is  between 
Negropont  fand  Macronift.  There  often  arrive  at  Mycone  French  Barks,  to 
lade  Corn,  Oil,  Cotton,  and  the  like  Commodities  of  the  neighbouring 
'  Iflands. 


THE  Ladies  of  Mycone  would  not  be  difagreeable,  were  their  Habits 
but  a  little  lefs  ridiculous ;  and  yet  an  ordinary  Suit  fhall  coft  'em  200 

Crowns- 


/.y-^ 


JPay  aJf- 


/;>/.  i. 


J',././  .   Uj? 


/////A  v  '-2ti  >t/dice  . 


\ 
9 


(7  jirr/-  of  eutdsr   Pe&zaHUr 


J/ivvf///, 


Other  varfo  of  tike*  ////t-r/u/t//  tfomens  ///.>// ij/y/. 


/<■•/.  /  ■ 


Tax?.  ijj7l 


P/r/v   rr  f//f  tLmfrarel  of  /At  »  //i/rrvt/si/i  7/(^7/1^/7 


* 


m.i. 


Xhy  .pj-j 


tl '  {2<rr~<&e£> . 


J/IS-07U . 


j'/^r,:.. 


<j7////?tKr  ■ 


§ 


^//ur  parte  of ' {Ae^sffluccn/a/i  7/cm<vi.<  <////?<//•/•/. 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  My  cone.  2 1 9 

Crowns  ;  fornc  there  are  that  come  to  1 50  Sequins.     'Tis  true,  the  La-  Letter  VI. 
dies  for  the  rnofl  part  clothe  themlelves  but  once  for  their  whole  Life ;  v~^yr"v-' 
their  Husbands  have  not  the  mortification  of  feeing  'em  follow  the  Modes, 
and  dipping  their  hands  in  their  Purfe  every  Change  of  the  Seafon.     I 
am  going  to  defcribe  the  feveral  Parts  of  their  Drefs,  which  is  all  over 
Grotefque. 

THE  firfl  is  a  fort  of  '  Under-Smicket  A  it  has  wrift-banded  Sleeves, '  m^w.1 
and  is  ufually  made  of  Muflin,  or  a  kind  of  fine  Buckram,  or  Silk  let  oftnw&mn. 
with  Gold  Lace  or  Embroidery :  and  thus  are  their  rich  eft  Smickets  no  bet- 
ter than  a  penitential  Shirt,  their  Trimming  making  a  Print  on  the  Skin. 

OVER  this  Smicket  they  wear  a  large  '  Smock  B.  of  Cotton  or  Silk, '  iW^ier. 
with  Sleeves  as  large  as  a  Surplice  :  this  reaches  to  their  Mid-leg,  and 
fervesforan  Under-Petticoat.     It  is  garnifli'd  with  Lace,  or  embroider'd 
with  Silk  or  Thred  of  Gold  and  Silver. 

THE  third  Piece  is  a  fort  of  J  Gorget  or  Stomacher  C.  cover'd  with !  Zni**%wt: 
Gold  or  Silver  Embroidery ;  this  they  apply  to  their  Neck. 

THEN  they  clap  on  a  4 Corflet  D.  with  two  Wings  on  the  fides,  and  *  m^sd?^- 
two  Openings  to  let  the.Arms  through  j  'tis  a  kind  of  Bodice,  without  pronounced  like 
Sleeves:  'tis  embroider'd.vvith  Gold  and  Silver,  adorn'd  with  Pearls;  in&^k*"/^: 
Winter  they  wear  'em  with  \  Sleeves.  c^k*  x?w 

THIS  Bodice  extends  three  or  four  inches  over  the  *  Colubi,  a  kind  e«7»'?H. 
of  Under-Petticoat  F.  very  thick  and  full  of  Pleats,  reaching  no  farther  '  M^^*'cf- 
than  the  Knees :  they  fallen  k  before  with  Ribbands.  *,»,. 

THE  fixth  Piece  is  an  7  Apron  H.  made  of  Muflin  or  embroider'd '  x,^,0"% 

*  Colibi,  or  Co- 

Silk.     Embroidery  being  an  Invention  of  the  Levant,  they  wear  nothing  low. 

without  it :  and  to  lpeak  truth,  they  excel  even  the  French  in  that  fort  of  ^  c/»«T 

Work,  as  to  Neatnefs ;  but  their  Patterns  are  not  fo  well  fancy'd.  *nd  *"fil*n' 

IN  Summer  they  wear8  Cotton  Stockings,  and  in  Winter  red  Cloth, » K*fT£«. 
trimm'd  with  Gold  or  Silver  Lace :  thele  Stockings  are  all  full  of  Pleats, 
for  they  wear  four  or  five  pair  one  over  another.     Their  Garters  are  Rib-  K*ezt6Ate« 
bands  edg'd  with  Gold  and  Silver  Lace,  faften'd  through  Loop-holes. 

THEIR  Slippers  are  Velvet;  but  the  upper  part  fo  fhort,  that  they  Ksw^wW 
cover  nothing  but  the  Toes,  which  gives  the  Ladies  an  ill  Gait  in  walk-  *"* 
ing.    Some  among  'em  have  Venetian  Shoes,  which  they  tie  with  huge 
laced  Ribbands. 

Ff2  LASTLY, 


220  •    ^  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

i&tij?&»i     LASTLY,  Their  Kerchief  is  a  Veil  of  Muflin  or  Silk,  ufually  feJ 
nfgfA*.        yen  or  eight  foot  iong^  an{j  tw0  broad,  which  they  twine  about  their 

Head  and  round  their  Chin,   in  a  very  agreeable  manner,   and  which 

gives  'em  a  fprightly  Air. 

THIS  Ifland  produces  no  extraordinary  Plants;    yet  we  met  with 

an  Iris  Tuberofa,  folio  angulofo.  C.  B.  Pin.  which  we  lit  not  of  in  any  other 

of  the  Iflands :  I  have  made  a  particular  Genus  of  it  under  the  name  of 

Hermodatfylus. 

WE  obferv'd  on  that  Mountain  of  St.  Elijah  which  is  by  CapeTW?,' 

that 

Mxia  lies  between  South-South-Eaft  and  South. 
The  letter  Debs  between  South-South- Weft  and  South- Weft. 
Paros  in  the  fame  Line.  ^ 

The  middle  of  the  greater  Delos  and  Cabronifi  to  the  South-Weft. 
Tragonifi  to  the  Eaft-South-Eaft. 
TW„W,  Jjh     TRAGONISI  is  an  ugly  Rock  three  miles  about,  one' mile  from 
ir^SL     ty'one  from  Cape  to  Cape,  below  the  Mountain  of  St.  Elijah  to  the  Eaft, 
tho  you'll  find  it  near  twenty  miles  to  go  from  the  Port  of  Mycone  to  that  ; 
of  Tragonifi :  at  prefent  there's  neither  He  nor  She-Goats,  which  former-     1 
ly  it  fo  abounded  with,  as  to  be  call'd  the  Goat-Ifland.     The  Burghers     i 
of  Mycone,  efpecially  the  Monks'  of  TruBani,  breed  their  Cartel  there;.     I 
but  the  Shepherds  are  obliged  to  take  >em  up  in  Afrit,  when  the  Rain-     l 
water  begins  to  fall  ihort.     The  Sheep-coat  is  pretty  enough,   but  the     ( 
twoChappels,  built  there  fometime  fince,  have  only  four  Walls. 

STAPODIA  is  five  miles  off  Tragonifi;  it  is  a  Rock  form'd  in  lhape     i 
of  a  Saddle,  and  is  cover'd  with  four  or  five  pretty  Plants :  there's  nei- 
ther Shepherd  nor  Sheep,  becaufe  there's  not  a  drop  of  frdh  Water,  and 
k  is  frequently  oveflowM  by  the  Sea  in  many  places. 

1  am,  &c. 

A    A   ^ 


l W  W 


LET- 


( 221 ) 


LETTER    VII. 

To  Monfeigneur  the  Count  de  Pontchartraii^ 
Secretary  of  State,  &c. 

My  Lord, 

H  E  Greeks  to  this  very  day  call  by  the  name  of  •  Dili  two  Rocks  Defcriptton  of 

„    .  .      .  .      ,  ,  .  ,     , ,      __  ,        ,    -  .  .  the  Iflands  of 

of  the  Archipelago  ;  they  are  both  of  'em  utterly  deierted,  and  Ddos.. 

only  ferve  for  a  Retreat  to  Pirates  and  Robbers :  the  *  largeft '  A"*«- 
"°  was  antiently  callM  the  Ifle  Rhenia,  and  the ;  other  was  known  Ao?  p^.««>an" 
by  the  name  of  Debs,  the  Center  of  the  famous  Cyclades.     This  latter,  ^uorurn- 
which  is  not  above  feven  or  eight  miles  in  circuit,  tho  +  Pliny  allows  it  quor.  ' 
fifteen,  was  look'd  upon  as  a 5  Sacred  Place,  from  the  moment  a  Report  *!'*,%*  f^** 
was  fpread,  that  Latona  was  there  deliver'd  of  Jpo/Io  and  Diana.     TheF^nks  cali 
Greeks,  who  were  famed  for  Wit  and  Ingenuity  before  the  Romans,  were  *  ma.  Nat. 
fo  attach'd  to  Delos,  fix'dfo  many  Honours  upon  it,  and  made  it  lb  mag-s1,b*4'cap'12* 
nificent,  that  it  became  the  Admiration  of  After-Ages :  never  was  Ifland  Geog/iib-io. 
fo  highly  extoll'd;  Pindar  and  CaUimachws  compos'd  Hymns  in  its  ho- 
nour.    Eryfichton,  Son  of  Cecraps  the  firft  King  of  Athens,  erected  there  a 
Temple  to  Apollo  :  this  Temple,  which;  afterwards  became  one  of  the  E"kb.  anon,, 
ftatelieft  Edifices  upon  earth,  Hood  at  the  entrance  of  a  mighty  City  CedreiTcom- 
built  all  with  Granate-ftone  and  Marble,  adorn'd  with  a  Theatre,  Piazza's,  WeLchro  i 
a  Bafon  for  the  Reprefentation  of  Sea-Fights,  a  Gymnafium,  and  a  pro-  noKjca(MS. 
digious number  of  Altars.  SfSSf* 

JUDGE,  my  Lord,  how  impatient  we  were  to  fee.  a  Country  fo  cele-  v«c  266, 
brated  by  Authors.     The  Ifland  of  Delos,  which  is  full  three  times  as 
long  as 'tis  broad,  ftands  between  two  fine  Canals,  the  one  towards 

pfycone} 


222  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Mycone,  and  the  other  towards  the  Ifle  Rhenia  .-  in  that  of  Mycone,  which 
n&mvimi,    is  Eaft-North-Eait,  are  a  couple  of  fcurvy  Shelves,   accompany'd  with 
Lceki."  "'      forae  Rocks.     The  Canal  is  three  miles  over,  from  Cape  Alcgomandra  in 
Mycone  to  the  neareft  Point  of  Delos  ;  but  they  reckon  it  fix  miles  from 
the  Port  of  Mycone  to  the  little  Port  of  Delos,  the  ordinary  Landing- 
place  :  it  is  fifteen  miles  from  this  little  Port  to  that  of  St.  Nicolo  of  Tinos. 
Pliny  was  not  well  acquainted  with  the  diftance  between  Mycone  and  Delos  • 
for  he  determin'd  it  fifteen  miles  :  he  is  likevvife  miflaken  in  that  between 
Delos  and  Naxia,  which  is  forty  miles,  tho  he  reckons  it  but  eighteen.    As 
for  that  between  Delos  and  Nicaria,  he  is  right  in  faying  it  is  fifty  miles. 
rPs(*tTw>?>        THE  Canal  which  runs  between  the  two  Dtlos's  is  fcarce  half  a  mile 
laborans:  'Pe-  broad  towards  the  greater  Rematiari,  a  Rock  fo  call'd:  the  oddnefs  of  its 
£bm5?  ST  Name  rais'd  in  me  a  Curiofity  to  fearch  after  its  Etymology  ;  and  tho  it 
Ptt///.*x<£W.   was  a  dilcovery  of  no  great  importance,  yet  I  can't  help  being  pleas'd 
with  it.     Rematiari   in  the  vulgar   Greek  fignifies   a  Perfbn  fubjedt  to 
Fluxions:  now  as  this  Rock,  being  fomewhat  flat,  is  frequently  over- 
flow'd  by  the  Waters  of  the  Canal,  the  Greeks,  who  are  a  facetious  Peo- 
ple, have  given  it  the  name  of  Rematiari ;  that  is  to  lay,  an  Ifland  fub- 
je&toRheumatiiins,  or  to  be  often  overwhelm'd  with  Water.     The  An- 
•Ewtk  n»<™  tients  held  this  Rock  in   great  veneration,  and  confecrated  it  to  Dianx 
WrliZ  n>*  under  the  name  of  Hecate  :  for  we  read  in  Suidas,  that  it  was  call'd  the 
«/jw,  &c.     jQan<j  0f  Hecate,  or  Pfammite,    from  the  name  of  certain  Cakes  there 
ofter'd  in  facrifice  to  that  Goddefs. 

A  S  this  Rock  ftands  in  the  narroweit  part  of  the  Canal,  it  was  in  all 
likelihood  pitch'd  upon  by  Polycratcs,  the  famous  Tyrant  of  Samos,  for 
Ttmcyiiib.;.  extending  that  Chain  mention'd  by  Thucyd.id.es,  which  faften'd  the  Ifland 
Rhenia  to  Delos,  and  is  a  proof  they  confecrated  the  former  to  Delia* 
Plutarch,  in  Apollo.  It  is  alio  probable,  that  this  was  the  very  place  where  Nicias 
crofs'd  the  Canal  to  enter  into  Delos ;  nothing  can  excel  the  Pompoumefs 
of  this  Entrance.  Nicias  being  inform'd  that  the  Priefts  deputed  from  the 
Grecian  Cities  generally  landed  in  a  diibrderly  manner,  and  that  they 
were  often  enjoin'd  to  fing  the  Hymns  of  Apollo  without  giving 'em  time 
to  dreis,  order'd  the  Victims,  and  Prefents,  and  whole  Retinue,  to  put 
alhore  in  the  Ifland  of  Rhenia,  In  the  night  they  laid  a  Bridge  over  the 
Canal,  and  next  day  to  every  body's  great  lurprize  was  feen  this  Proceflion 

marching 


j&iand  df$)J5ZOS . 


Jhtib   of  a  .  jf/fc 


But  ofp    t/r,.;/,-,-  £W<v    <■</// U  t/is  Ir/mu/  7t/tS,U,7 


j  .Liff/f  LaAs 
■2 .  'jX.-y/iin,/  J/rrut./ 

3  .J3.ljt/L  dff/'U  tip .   ' 

J  /''.U'/I./UJ  Sf'tl'/iu 

S.P,'}fi>:'  i/i  wins. 

y.'lbnm  in  rtasts . 

S.SvtuUairt  \'/'  if '.  tfa/tots, 

ji   ,/sii  '■•,///. V, V  Si,iji.j/ir. 
jo.  t  tettm,  .//y 
jr.  Tti/istr  -of  d/io/iitt  U.    , 
j zJirsAsn  /ns,-£S  <•/■*.  /£"/■/' 
2,a>ns 


i+Fd&uv cfgiutiitft '( 
Jt.l/v  -I?u.i}n 
&.&,,  ffltm. 

iS.Jluifw  tfihi  '/>■'<■" 
j  j.  J7ts  !&n  -ri  (f.tt£  ' 

£>*/J/7t//llt2SI  .  tl&OHtM 

zjBumj  of  (fit  fen'o  ■;> 
(Ju  J/U 

It h f:'xr  i 


222 


I"T£$!!n>!'iicn>/, 
the  JJles  of 
Leeks. 


Rheumatifmo 
laborans:  'Ps- 
IMTi^eiV,  aquis 
obrueie,  pro 


My. 
is  ) 
fbn 
My, 
rhe 
phi 
Pli 
for 
De, 
for 

bro 
Naj 

was 
wit 
Flu 
flo\ 

pie, 

je<2 

'EUtk  Nmotj  tien 

xeJ-mi  77  Nil-    Ulia 

ffv'J)wt   &C.  Tfl.li 

Suid.  llU! 

offe 
1 
like 
ext< 
Kft 
Jpo 
crol 
oft 
Gre, 
vver 
to  c 
aftu 
Can 


-V^t 


Thucyd.  lib. 


Plutarch,  in 
Nkuu 


7/Z<ZS?     /& 


'•   'JC71-7J   i 


Defer ipt ion  of  the  Iflands  of  Delos.  223 

marching  over  the  Bridge,  cover'd  with  rich  Tapeftry,  with  Parapets  Lett.  VIL 
painted  with  Gold  and  beautify'd  with  Flowers  ;  all  which  was  brought  '-^"V*^ 
Horn  Athens :  the  Company  proceeded  in  good  order,  finely  deck'd  out, 
and  finging  moll:  melodioufly.  In  Apollo's  Temple  they  perform1  d  the 
Sacrifice :  Games  were  not  omitted,  nor  magnificent  Repafts  forgot.  A'/'- 
eias  caus'd  to  be  rais'd  a  tall  Palm-Tree  of  Brafs,  which  he  confecrated 
to  the  God  of  the  Ifland  :  he  did  more,  he  appropriated  the  Income  of  a 
confiderable  Farm  for  a  yearly  Entertainment  of  the  Delians,  thereby  to 
procure  the  Blefling  of  the  Gods  by  Sacrifice.  This  Donative,  to  render 
it  authentick  and  irrevocable,  was  grav'd  on  a  Pyramid. 

THE  Canal  above-mention'd  is  three  miles  broad  from  Camels  Cape  to  cabo  Caa&j 
Port  Pjrgos  of  the  greater  Delos ;  one  of  its  Mouths  is  to  the  South,  the 
other  to  the  North.     The  great. Rewatiari  is  to  the  South- Weft,  the  little 
Rematiari  to  the  Weft  :  the  diftance  between  'em  is  the  fame  as  from  the 
little  Delos  to  the  great  Rock ;  but  the  diftance  of  this  great  Rock  and 
the  greater  Delos,  is  far  more.     Ships  of  War  call  anchor  towards  the 
j  South  Point  of  the  great  Rematiari,  where  is  good  Anchoring ;  and  no 
Iefs  than  ioo  Ships  of  War  have  been  leen  there   after  the  Battel  of Herod-  llb-8v 
j  Salamin,  to  refcue  Ionia  from  the  Tyranny  of  the  Perjians :  Diodorus  Si-  Bibiioth.  Hifc. 
:ftf/#*faysitconfifted  of  2  5oGallies. 

SHIPS  pais  between  the  two  Rocks  and  the  greater  Delos,  when 
they  would  go  out  by  the  North  Paflage :  the  Gallies  anchor  a  little  lower 
to  the  South.  The  other  part  of  this  Canal,  which  is  between  the 
Rocks  and  the  lefler  Delos,  ferves  as  a  PalTage  to  the  Galliots  and  Saicks. 

WE  fet  out  from  Mjcone  with  M.  Gizi  Conful  of  France,  who  was  fb  oflober24i 
■kind  as  to  give  us  his  Company  in  examining  into  the  Ruins  of  this  ' 
Ifland :  our  impatience  to  get  thither,  did  not  permit  us  to  go  fo  far  as 
the  little  Port;  we  landed  at  a  narrow  piece  of  Land  (i)  to  the  North- 
Eaft,  the  utmoft  Extremity  of  the  Ifland,  a  fmall  Lake  (2)  about  twenty 
miles  broad,  which  is  never  dry  but  in  the  hotteft  Weather,  and  is  full  in 
Winter.  The  Tamarisks  which  grow  about  it,  rejoiced  us;  the  more, 
becaufe  we  needed  not  fear  perifhing  with  Thirft  in  that  place,  as  Met 
fieurs  Spon  and  Wheeler  ran  a  rifque  in  1675.  This  Lake  is  fifty  paces 
from  the  Sea,  on  that  fide  which  faces  the  greater  Delos y  and  280  from 
che  Point  of  Land  where  we  put  afhore. 


224  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant 

-fywZoTo;      IT  fhould  feera,  that  this  piece  of  Water  is  that  Morafs  Ipoken  of 

vi£j?t  eppss      by  Callimachus  and  Herodotus ;  for  the  Name  of  Morals  can  by  no  means 

Hym.'  on  Dd!  aSree  witn   tne  Fountain  Inopus,  forafmuch  as  Callimachus  makes  feparate 

verf.  261.      mention  of  'em  :  neither  is  it  credible  that  this  Morafs  Ihould  be  the  oval 

AR^rHerod.  Baf°n  wherein  they  uled  to  perform  mock  Sea-fights,  becaufe  it  is  not  at 

lib.  2.  an  likely  they  Ihould  give  the  name  of  a  Morafs  or  Lake  to  a  Balbn  made 

by  manual  Labour,  very  well  cemented,  and  which  they  uled  to  fill,  as 

we  fhall  make  appear,  with  Sea-water,  when  they  had  a  mind  to  repre- 

Naufttejd'*.      fent  Naval  Engagements.     It  mull  therefore  be  concluded  that  our  Lake, 

which  belike  has.  been  partly  fill'd  up  fince  then,  is  the  round  Morafs 

of  CalUmachus  and  Herodotus. 

WITHIN  255  paces  from  this  Lake,  beyond  a  fmall Eminence,  is  a 
very  flat  Spot  of  Ground,  with  one  of  the  noblelt  Springs  (j)  in  all  the 
Archipelago;  'tis  a  fort  of  Well,  about  twelve  paces  diameter,  incloled 
partly  by  Rocks,  and  partly  by  a  Wall ;  the  Compafs  of  it  is  in  Winter 
laid  under  water  :  in  October  there  were  24  foot  of  Water,  and  above  $0 
in  January  and  February.  This  wonderful  Spring  is  1 00  paces  from  the 
A  Coaft  which  faces  the  greater  Delos ;  but  it  is  much  farther  from  that  which 

is  oppofite  to  Mycone. 

SURE  LY  this  Spring  mull  be  the  Fountain  hioptis  of  Pliny  ;  for  I 
have  heard  'em  fay  at  Mycone,  that  this  of  Delos  role  and  fell  at  the  fame  1 
liifd"  Ge0=*   time  with  the  River  Jordan.     £  Strabo  fays,  'tis  carrying  Prodigies  too  1 , 
MuDeioin-   far,  to  bring  the  Nik  as  far  as  Delos.     [Pliny  goes  more  ferioufly  to., 
fonVeTm     work,  and  lays  that  the  Fountain  Inopus  rofe  and  fell  as  the  Nile  did :  the , ., 
quo Nilus .mo-  peopie  0f  Mycone  have  retain'd  this  Fable  by  Tradition,  but  they  con- 
cimi  eo  dcaef-  found  Jordan  with  the  Nile.     I  Callimachus  Ipeaks  of  Inopus  as  a  deep  Wa- 
Cp)mM™.xat. ter,  and*  Strabo  as  a  little  River.     Our  Spring  has  24  foot  of  Water  in 
Kb.*,  cap.101.  Summer,  asisfaid  before.     The  Venetian  and  Turkijh  Fleets  water  there; 
'J*  vaf.263.  and  I'm  perfuaded  that  antiently  it  fupply'd  both  the  Delos' 's  with  Water, 
4  no7»^c<  5   for  there's  no  Spring  in  Rbenia.     Strabo  mull  have  been  wrong  inform'd ; 
Jo7i*v™V£  neither  is  there  any  Rivulet  in  Delos,  except  fome  Trenches  for  con- 
v-w  >b  #j   Ve.yin2  Rain-water, 


"i[ 


stiab.  Rcr.  WITHIN  124  paces  from  this  noble  Spring,  near  the  Illhmus  which 

parts  from  the  reft  of  the  Illand  the  Tongue  or  Point  of  Land  we  de- 

4.  bark'd 


I 


Defcription  of  the  IJlands  of  Delos.  22 £ 

bark'd  at,  is  another  (4)  Hollow  very  deep,  but  dry ;  we  were  told  'twas  Lett.  VII. 
full  in  January  and  February. 

THE  upper  end  of  this  Ifthmus,  on  the  left,  you  enter  the  Ruins  of 
the  (5)  antient  City  of  Delos.  We  at  firft  difcover'd  the  Shafts  or  Shanks 
of  fix  Pillars  of  Granate,  one  foot  four  inches  in  diameter,  pofited  on 
the  fame  line,  three  upright,  one  Hoping,  and  two  bury'd  fo  as  we  could 
only  fee  the  Diameters. 

WITHIN  196  paces,  towards  the  left,  in  a  line  with  the  fame  Ruins 
(6),  you  fee  within  thirty  or  forty  paces  from  the  Sea  five  fair  Columns 
of  Marble,  fixteen  inches  diameter,  dilpos'd  likewile  in  the  fame  rank. 
And  twenty  five  paces  farther  there  are  pieces  of  other  Columns  of  Marble 
gutter'd,  two  foot  three  inches  diameter :  near  hand  are  found  fbme  other 
pieces  of  Marble,  and  a  little  higher  up  along  the  Sea  (7)  rife  two  Pillars 
of  Granate,  fquare,  very  flender.  Thefe  are  all  the  Remains  of  Antiqui- 
ty on  the  Coaft  of  Delos,  over  againfl  Mycone :  this  was  not  the  beau- 
tifulleft  part  of  the  City  ;  the  Ports  which  are  between  the  two  Delos's 
made  the  Weftern  Coaft  be  juftly  prefer'd  to  that  of  the  Eaft-North-Eaft, 
'where  are  nothing  but  Shallows. 

THE  City  therefore,  inftead  of  extending  to  the  Coaft  of  Mycone, 
made  a  fort  of  Angle  through  the  Ifland,  towards  the  Weft,  and  following 
the  Hope  of  a  fmall  Hill  (8),  came  and  join'd  one  of  the  proudeft  Edi- 
;:fices  (9)  of  the  Ifland,  if  we  may  judge  from  its  Ruins  ;  it  was  perhaps  a 
Portico  fupported  by  a  Colonnade,  as  is  apparent  from  the  Moulds  and 
'Pilafters:  the  Ruins  of  this  Building  are  within  330  paces  from  Mycone, 
almoft  over  againft  the  two  Pillars  of  Granate  (7)  mentioned  before.     To- 
wards the  grand  Delos,  they  anfwer  to  the  Calanque  of  Scardana  (i})> 
which  is  523  paces  off:  you  fee  among  thefe  Ruins  nothing  but  broken 
Marbles,  Pedeftals,  Pilafters,  Architraves,  wooden  Moulds  for  Arches,  and 
•evers'd  Bafes ;  molt  of  the  Columns  were  carry'd  off:  thofe  that  remain, 
ire  but  fixteen  inches  diameter,  and  the  Pilafters  are  a  foot  five  inches 
jroad.    The  Moulds  are  of  one  fingle  fquare  piece,  five  foot  diameter, 
rut  fcmicircular,  broad  in  the  clear  three  foot  four  inches,  with  Mouldings 
Df  a  noble  Simplicity.     There  are  Pedeftals  three  foot  two  inches  diz- 
neter,  three  foot  and  a  half  deep,  cylindrical ;  and  on  the  Body  of  one 
jf  thefe  Pedeftals  are  yet  to  be  feen  the  Traces  of  a  very  long  Infcrip- 
Vol.  I.  G  g  tion ; 


226  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

tion ;  but  fo  worn  by  Time,  that  better  Antiquaries  could  make  nothing: 
of  it.  After  much  difficulty,  we  perceiv'd  the  following  Characters^. 
A  N 1 1 G  \,  which  perhaps  form'd  the  beginning  of  the  Name  of  Antio- 
chus ;  that  which  feems  to  be  a  A.  may  have  been  an  A.  the  firft  I.  may 
ferve  for  a  Leg  of  a  T. 

ANTIOCHVS  EPJPHJNES,  or  Epimanes,  King  of  Syria,  had 
embeliih'd  Delos  with  many  Altars  and  Statues ;  as  appears  by  a  PafTage 
Deipn,  lib.  5.  in  Polybius,  quoted  in  Atbenxus.  The  Fragment  of  the  41ft  Book  of 
Livy  feems  only  to  be  a  Copy  of  what  Polybius  had  publiih'd  concerning 
that  Javifh  Prince  :  peradventure  he  had  caus'd  to  be  built  that  Portico 
where  had  been  rais'd  his  Statue  on.  the  Pedeftal  we're  fpeaking  of ; 
among  thefe  Pedeftals,  are  two  Corinthian  Chapiters,  the  others  have 
been  carry'd  away  to  make  Mortars  of,  according  to  the  Cuftorn  of  the 
Levant. 

AFTER  perufing  thefe  Ruins,  we  went  up  a  fmall  Hill  on  the  right  (8)j    * 
where  we  difeover'd  fome  refidue  of  a  Building.     Advancing  toward  the    a 
Sea,  we  went  up  a  fteeper  Mountain  (10),  but  yet  not  fo  fteep  as  Mount    L 
Cynthus  which  we  had  flill  in  our  eye.     Between  thefe  two  Hills  are  two 
Citterns  (n,  12),  with  no  Rain-water  in'em,  and  the  Remains  of  feme 
Marble  Columns,  which  may  have  been  Materials  of  a  Temple;     On  the     ? 
Mountain  ( 1  o)  you  lee  the  Foundations  of  part  of  the  City,  which  ftretch'd     ( 
as  far  as  the  Sea :  Mr.  Wheeler  fufpedts,  not  without  reaibn,  that  this  was    " 
the  new  Athens  of  Adrian,    built  by  the  Athenians  at  that   Emperor's 
©ATMmEi-  charge,  and  call'd  Olympieion  by  Stephens  the  Geographer..    This  Name  is- 
©N.  Steph.     derived  from  the  Sirname  of  Olympian,  mark'd  on  a  Medal  of  the  Nice- 
©5>{OMi'fx-    medians,  where  Adrian  is  call'd  Olympian  God:  the  fame  Name  is  given    :i 
Nwpijiw'    him  on  a  Medal  of  the  Ephefutns,  where  he  is  reprefeuted  with  Lucius '  w 
'Av™.  Ka/-   yirus,     Adrian  being  at  Athens,  built  a  Temple  and  an  Altar  there,  which 
cW/Kiwej,  a«-  he  himfelf  confecrated  by  the  name  of  Olympian  Jupiter. 
3SU^!*Le-       ON  one  fide  the  City  of  Adrian  extended  to  the  Gymnafium  ( 15),  and     • 
gend.  £<pi<nov.  on  tfre  other  to  the  Portico  of  Antiochus,  without  any  interruption  be- 
n  y&yltM  a   tween  that  new  Town  and  the  great  one  where  was  the  Tempie  of  -.i  .1- 
I^Ih'vqk-  1°  '•  nor  are  r^ere  to  ^  round  hi  any  other  part  of  the  Town  either  Foun- 
a«  ?5fi«w.      dations  or  Rubbiih :  from  whence  we  may  conjecture  that  they  made  but 

Calhm.Hymn.  J  J 

on  Delos,       one  fingle  powerfiil  City  of  all  the  little  Towns  which  gave  Xlalltmtchtts 

verf.  266. 

occa- 


Ib 


Defer ipt ion  of  the  Ijlands  of  Delos.  227 

occafion  to  call  Delos  a  many-town'd  Ifland.  It  appears  from  an  Infcrip-  Lett.  VII. 
rion,  reported  by  M.  Upon,  the  Marble  whereof  is  in  M.  Baudelofs  MiCIu^ 
Clofct,  That  there  were  feveral  Temples  in  the  new  Athens  of  Delos ;  *""* fea*10* 
namely,  thofe  of  Apollo,  Hercules,  Neptune. 

FROM   this  Mountain  you  difcern  the  Calanque  of  Scardana  (ij), 
where  landed  Meflicurs  Spon  and  Wheeler,  and  which  they  took  for  a  fmall  &m*w  *) 
Port :  but  this  finall  Port  is  higher  up  towards  the  Point  of  the  little  Re-    **"*" 
tnatiari. 

ON  the  fide  of  this  Calanque,  within  170  paces  of  the  Sea,  in  a  flat 
Spot  (1 5),  arc  flill  Handing  fix  Pillars  of  Granate,  and  a  fquare  Pillar  of  the 
fame  Stone :  there  were  eleven  Columns  (landing  when  Meflieurs  Spon  and 
Wheeler  arrived  there;  we  counted  25  thrown  down;  both  forts  feem'd 
to  have  been  pofited  fquare  :  fome  are  a  foot  and  a  half  diameter,  others 
two  foot  within  two  inches ;  moft  of  'em  are  nine  foot  and  a  half  high. 
Tradition  will  have  it,  that  this  Place  was  the  Gymnafium  of  the  Ifland ; 
and  therefore  the  Corfairs  call  this  Delos  the  School,  to  diftinguifh  it  from 
the  grand  Delos.  This  pretended  Gymnafium  was  all  of  Granate,  or 
Stone  of  the  Country  :  the  Granate  was  drawn  out  of  Mount  Cynthus  ; 
The  Infcriptions  fpeaking  of  Gymnafiarchs,  are  in  an  oval  Bafon  I'm  go- 
ing to  defcribe. 

O  N  the  left  hand,  about  forty  five  paces  from  the  Gymnafium,  in  a 
narrow  Bottom,  is  the  Fountain  of  the  Maltefe  (16),  a  fmall  Well  whole 
Mouth  is  even  with  the  ground,  and  lozenge-faihion  :  in  Ofiober,  January, 
and  February,  the  Water  was  not  above  feven  or  eight  foot  deep. 

WITHIN  a  hundred  paces  of  the  Gymnafium,  almoft  on  the  fame 
line,  and  within  345  paces  from  the  Sea,  is  an  ovalBafbn  (17),  being  289 
foot  long,  200  broad,  furrounded  with  a  Wall  about  four  foot  high,  al- 
moft wholly  faced  with  a  very  thick  Cement,  and  fit  to  keep  Water  ;  it 
^mpty'd  it  felf  through  a  Canal  a  foot  and  a  half  broad,  which  came  from 
:he  Sea,  and  whole  Mouth  was  oppofite  to  the  Gymnafium.  This  Bafon  xoeer^xjx*- 
,is  at  this  day  calVd-  the  Dancing-fpot,  or  a  place  proper  to  dance  in;  and  t^v71™' 
indeed  'tis  fit  for  nothing  but  Sailors  and  Fifhermen  to  dance  in.  The 
intient  Authors  do  not  lay  pofitively  that  they  ufed  to  reprcfent  Naval 
3attels  at  Delos,  yet  this  Balon  feems  to  have  been  defign'd  for  fuch-like 
Sxercifes ;  but  then  the  Ships  muft  have  been  very  fmall  ones  :  whereas 

G  g  2  the 


228  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

the  open  Canal  between  the  two  Delosrs  feems  to  be  an  admirable  place 
for  fuch  Spectacles  in  a  fair  Day,  fince  the  People  of  both  Wands  might 
from  the  Coaft  behold  'em  with  all  the  convenience  in  the  world;  befides, 
there  was  fpace  and  depth  enough  for  Gallies  and  common  Ships  to  ad. 
Be  that  matter  as  it  will,  the  Rain-water  which  had  gathered  in  the  faid 
Bafon  was  briny  and  almoll:  bitter,  whereas  that  of  other  Pools  of  Rain 
was  fweetifh ;  which  feems  to  argue  that  this  Balbn  was  formerly  fill'd 
with  Sea-water,  whole  Salt  and  Slime  is  in  great  quantities  (till  remaining. 
I T  is  not  furprizing,  that  Meflieurs  Spoa  and  Wheeler  took  this  Balbn 
for  the  Morals  of  Callimachus ;  they  had  ill  Guides,  and  faw  neither  the 
round  Lake  we  have  been  defcribing,  nor  the  Fountain  Inopus :  the  difc 
covery  of  this  Fountain  was  owing  to  our  Impatience ;  for  we  had  not 
feen  the  Slip  of  Land  where  it  is,  had  we  gone  as  far  as  the  little  Port: 
whereas  thofe  Gentlemen  coming  from  Tinos,  pafs'd  quite  through  the 
grand  Canal,  and  landed  at  Scardana.  The  Comparifon  made  by  He* 
lib.  2.  c.170.  roAotus  of  the  Morals  which  is  in  Egypt  at  Sau  near  Minerva's  Temple 
with  that  of  Delos,  appears  at  firfb  fight  to  favour  their  Sentiment,.' 
fince  that  of  Sais  was  inclos'd  with  a  very  handfome  Wall,  as  well  as 
the  Balbn  we  are  (peaking  of;  but  that  Author's  Comparifbn  mould 
feem  rather  to  fall  upon  the  Figure  and  Largenefs  of  the  Morafs  of  Delosy 
than  on  its  Ornaments. 

GOING  down  into  this  Balbn  (now  half  fill'd  up  with  Earth)  we 
prelently  dilcover'd  a  Iquare  Pedeftal,  two  foot  five  inches  high,  and  two 
foot  one  inch  broad,  half  broken,  and  only  affording  part  of  an  Infcrip- 
tion,  which  (peaks  of  the  Gymnafiarch  Seleucus  of  Marathon.  It  is  here 
underneath  reported  intire,  juft  as  Meflieurs  Spon  and  Wheeler  read  it  in 
1675.  the  fide  that's  crofs'd  (hews  what  is  milling;  for  atprefcnt  there 
is  no  finding  any  more  than  what  remains  on  the  right  hand. 

©PAAATOY 

XEAETKOS 
rTMNASIAPXilN- 


AS 


Defcription  of  the  IJlandr  ofDdos.  229 

A  S  for  the  Inscription  of  MithrMates  Eupator,  mention'd  by  Meflleurs  Lett.  VIL 
Spun  and  Wheeler,  it  has  fince  then  perhaps  been  taken  away  :  it  is  not  at  l->r"v^y^ 
all  furprizing  to  meet  with  Statues  to  thofe  two  Princes  in  this  Ifland ;  to 
Mithridates  Evergetesf  on  account  of  his  Benefactions ;  to  his  Son  Eupa- 
tcr,  on  account  of  his  Formidablenefs :  he  caus'd  Delos  to  be  plunder'd 
and  fack'd,  under  pretext  that  me  had  deferted  his  Friends  the  Athenians,  smb.  Rer; 

Geo°\  lib    1 22 

During  the  Difbrder  therefore  which  his  Troops  caus'd  there,  the  Statues  F|or°  £ ' 
Ox  Mithridates  were  fpared,  but  no  Refpect  at  all  {hewn  to  thofe  of  other  caP-  J* 
Princes* 

W  E  perceiv'd  on  the  left  hand,  and  in  the  fame  Bafon,  a  Relique  of 
another  Pedeftal,  in  figure  cylindrical,  half  bury'd  in  the  Sand :  after  we 
had  uncovered  and  wafh'd  it,  we  read  on  it  part  of  an  Infcription  fbme- 
what  maul'd  by  Time  or  Accidents,  which  makes  mention  of  the  King 
Nicomedes  Epiphanesy  and  of  a  Gymnafiarch  who  had  caus'd  a  Statue  to 
be  erected  to  him.  This  Pedeftal  is  feventeen  inches  diameter  j  the  In- 
fcription is  as  follows. 

BA2IAEK2       NIKOMHA.- 

TOT    ETTONOT    BASUEQS  * 

NIKOMEAOT      Enl*ANOT 

....KOTPlAHS    aIOSKOPUOTm 

PAMNOTSIOS      TTMNA2IAPXO. 

IT  is  the  fame  Nicomedes  as  put  his  Father  Prufias  to  death,  and  who  Appian.  d« 

»  J  Bells  MiwiJa» 

was'fiicceeded  by  Nicomedes  Philopator  his  Son.  I  bought  at  Erzeron  a 
Silver  Medal  of  Nicomedes  Epiphanes :  the  Head  is  admirable,  but  the  Re- 
verfe  was  not  done  by  the  fame  Hand. 


ON 


230  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

O  N  the  right  hand  of  this  Bafon,  towards  the  bottom,  about  fifty 
paces  as  you  go  up  a  fmall  Eminence  (18),  there  are  ftill  fubfrfting  the 
Fragments  of  fome  glorious  Temple,  by  what  may  be  gather'd  from  fe- 
veral  Marble  Columns  about  twenty  two  inches  diameter,  half  fluted,  and 
half  pannel'd,  or  perhaps  fluted  at  both  ends,  and  cut  in  fquare  Panes  in 
the  Inter-ipaces ;  the  Flutings  i^or  Channellings)  and  the  Panes  are  three 
inches  and  a  half  broad.  We  could  only  read  the  word  aiontsiot 
on  the  Remnant  of  an  Altar,  cylindrical,  far  bigger  than  the  preceding 
Pedeflals,  adorn'd  with  Heads  of  Oxen,  Feftoons,  and  Bunches  of 
Grapes :  the  .upper  part  of  this  Altar  is  ibmewhat  hollow,  and  proper  to 
burn  Incenfe  on  ;  by  this  we  rauft  diftinguifh  Altars  from  Pedeflals  that 
fupported  Statues,  and  which  confequentiy  were  quite  flat.  Thele  Altars 
are  frequent  in  both  Delos's ;  we  met  with  one  fo  very  fine,  I  caus'd  it  to 
be  graved. 

SOME  paces  from  thence,  on  one  end  of  a  Marble  Architrave,  is  to 
be  read  in  very  fair  Characters  three  inches  deep,  ontsiot  e t,  the 
Remnant  of  a i o n t 2  1  o r  etttxot,  mention'd  by  Meffieurs  Spo» 
and  Wheeler ;  but  the  latter  places  it  too  near  the  Portico  of  Philip  of 
Maeedon. 

M.  SPO  A7  doubts  whether  that  Dionyfias  Eutyches  was  the  Son  of  that 
famous  Tyrant  of  Sjracufe,  with  whom  the  Carthagittians  had  fuch  bloody 
Wars  :  it  is  however  certain,  that  the  Sirname  of  Happy  fuits  better 
''Euiu%&.tk.  with  his  Father,  whom  Diodorus  Siculus  calls  very  fortunate :  contrariwife, 
m^it lli(t'  trie  Son  was  themofl  unhappy  of  all  Men;  about  the  end  of  his  Life,  he 
was  obliged  to  keep  a  School  for  his  Bread.     If  the  Infcription  means 
the  fir  ft  Tyrant  of  Sjracufe,  it  fhould  feem  as  if  that  Deflroyer  of  Tem- 
ples had  a  mind  to  atone  for  his  Wickednefs  by  making  Prelents  to  Apollo. 
Why  may  not  this  Dionjfius  have  been  one  of  the  Tyrants  of  Heracleat 
who   reign'd  very  happily  for  the  fpace  of  thirty  Years,  according  to 
1  ApuJPhot.    •  Mention  ?  '  Diodorus  isictdus  extends  his  Reign  to  thirty  two  Years,  and 
*  BibHo^KHift.'  '--dthenjeus  to  thirty  three.     He  better  deferves  the  name  of  Happy  than 
lib.  14,  &  20.  Dionyfius  of  Syracufe,  who  was  the  Curie  of  the  Age  he  lived  in. 
ci/.'le.1  12       FROM  this  Architrave,  verging  Sea-ward,  you.come  to  the  Ruins  of 
part  of  a  Town,  along  the  Coafl.     Two  paces  from  the  fame  Architrave 
you  meet  with  fome  Remains  (19)  of  Lions  in  Marble  much  broken,  tho 
fa  more 


Defcription  of  the  Ijlands  of  Delos.  235 

Hiore  eafy  to  difcovcr  than  thofe  which  are  on  the  fide  of  Apollo's  Temple.  Lett.  VII. 
The  Sieur  OJlovichi,  one  of  the  mod  lubftantial  Burghers  of  Mycone,  who  V-<^V^*J 
is  every  day  a  hunting  at  Delos,  allured  us  that  fome  time  ago  he  faw  five 
whole  ones. 

AFTERWARDS  are  difcover'd  the  Ruins  (20)  of  a  mod  ftately 
Building,  at  the  end  of  an  oval  Bafon  facing  the  Temple  of  Apollo  ;  an  in- 
finite number  of  Marble  Pillars  demonftrate  that  they  were  laid  out  hi  a 
Square  as  broad  as  the  little  Diameters  of  this  Balbn :  it  was  perhaps  a  Por. 
tico  built  by  Dio»yfius  Eutyches,  whole  Infcription  we  had  feen ;  for  the 
Architrave  and  Altar  with  that  Prince's  Name  thereon,  are  juft  by  thole 
Ruins :  fome  of  the  Columns  are  ftill  Handing  ;  moll  of  'em  are  down 
and  broken  to  pieces  :  there  are  plain  ones  twenty  inches  diameter,  and 
others  cut  in  Pannels  eighteen  inches,  both  intermix'd  with  huge  Pillars 
of  Granate. 

FROM  this  Portico  towards  the  little  Port  (14),  there's  nothing  but 
Marble  Columns  and  Pillars  of 'Granate  :  thefe  Columns  are  two  foot 
diameter,  and  their  Channellings  four  inches  broad.  Thele  Wrecks  (21) 
are  lo  magnificent,  that  we  took  *em  for  Fragments  of  LutoncCs  Temple.      T°  autoo?. 

°  '  &  r  Strab.  Rer. 

THEY  reckon  about  24a  paces  from  the  oval  Baibn  to  Apollo's  Tern-  Geog.  lib.  io-3 
pie  (22),  the  Ruins  whereof  are  Hill  more  relplendent  than  thofe  of  the 
other  Edifices  of  the  Ifland :  this  Temple,  lb  refpected  among  the  An- 
tients,  fituated  near  a  hundred  paces  from  the  little  Port,  was  the  Work 
of  all  the  Powers  of  Greece,. who  contributed. to  its  Erection  and  Main- 
tenance. Plutarch  tells  us  it  contain'd  one  of  the  leven  Wonders  of  the  DeSokit.  . 
World,  which  was  an  Altar  built  with  Horns  difpos'd  with  marvellous  Art, 
without  either  Glue  or  Pegs.  It  is  to  be  fear'd  this  Author  exaggerates 
the  Beauty  of  this  Piece,  as  much  as  the  Alcyons  Nells. 

THE  Remains  of  Apollo's  Statue.  (2  3),  are  almofl:  at  the  firfl  of  thele  ■ 
Ruins,  and  confift  in  two  pieces ;  the  Back  for  "one,  the  Belly  and  Thighs 
for  the  other  :  they  have  left  him  neither  Head,  nor  Arms,  nor  Legs.  It 
Was  a  Colofiial  Statue  of  one  fingle  Block  of  Marble,  the  Hair  falling 
ibout  his  moulders  in  large  rings.  The  Back  is  fix  foot  broad,'  but  there 
irenofigns  of  any  Ornament  to  be  leen,.  nor  do.  the  oldeft  Inhabitants 
tfMycone  remember  they  ever  law  that  Figure  whole;  the  Trunk  of  it  is 
quite  naked,  and  is  ten  foot  from  the  Haunch  to  the  Knee.    The  Sculpr 

tors 


2Q2  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant 

t6t$  of  thofe  Times  knew  better  than  to  place  fo  large  a  Figure  at  an 
ordinary  diftance  :  in  all  probability  it  was  defign'd  for  the  Frontifpiece 
of  a  Temple,  whence  it  might  appear  no  bigger  than  the  Life ;  and  there- 
by we  may  judge  of  the  Height  of  that  Edifice.  We  may  alfo  con- 
jecture by  the  Ruins,  which  are  above  500  paces  long,  that  the  Frontif 
piece  of  that  Temple  fronted  the  greateft  Delos,  and  that  it  was  cover'd 
with  a  Dome  of  a  great  diameter. 

THESE  Ruins  are  at  prefent  huge  pieces  of  broken  Columns,  Ar- 
chitraves, Bales,  Chapiters,  in  difbrderly  heaps ;  among  the  reft,  is  a 
quarter  of  a  Marble  well  fquared  out,  which  doubtlefs  ferv'd  as  a  Plinth 
to  Apollo's  Statue  :  it  is  fifteen  foot  and  a  half  long,  ten  foot  nine  inches 
broad,  and  two  foot  three  inches  thick,  with  a  hole  in  the  middle,  as  if 
chey  had  a  mind  to  fcoop  it  to  make  it  the  lighter.  It  bears  this  Infcrip- 
tion,  in  very  fair  Characters  : 

k 

KASIOI      AnOAAflNl.  j  \: 

k 

*o  A  <bsmi         PLVTA RCH  relates  in  the  Life  of  Nicias,  that  that  illuftrious  Athe-  - 
&fV0viJLSfm,v  n"in  caus'd  t0  De  fet  UP  near  tne  Temple  of  Delos  a  huge  Palm-Tree  of 
lmt*.<u?Li<     Brals,  which  he  confecrated  to  Apollo ;  and  that  the  Winds  afterwards  threw 
N<4i*>"  dvfer  down  this  Tree  on  a  Cofeffial  Statue  rais'd  by  the  Inhabitants  of  Naxos :  ! 
i^'x*v'vr£' ll  is  beyond  doubt,  that  this  was  the  Statue  of  Apollo  we  are  fpeaking  of 
4f :  A1"' in  As  for  the  Infcription,  'tis  certainly  of  thole  Times,  and  mews  that  the 
Stone  which  bears  it  was  the  Plinth  of  the  Statue ;  but  then  we  muft  alfo 
conclude,  that  this  Statue  was  as  yet  upon  the  ground,  or  that  the  Palm- 
Tree  which  threw  it  down  was  on  the  top  of  the  Temple. 

O  N  the  Plinth  over  againft  the  Infcription  of  the  Naxiots,  you  read 
another  in  Characters  fo  uncouth,  that  they  puzzle  the  moll:  ingenious 
Men  of  thofe  Iflands.  M.  Spon  at  firft  fancy'd  'em  a-kin  to  the  antient 
Tufcan  Letters ;  but  M.  Wheeler  and  he,  after  a  thorow  Examination,  con- 
cluded 'em  to  be  vulgar  Greek,  tho  they  could  not  interpret  them  :  the 
following  is  an  exact  Copy. 

TWO 


Defer iption  of  the  I/lands  of  Delos.  233 

TWO  of  the  greateft  Men  of  this  .Age,  without  being  told  whence  Lett.  VII. 
I  had  this  Infcription,  and  without  once  feeing  each  other,  without  con-  t^TX^0 
ferring  together,  explain'd  it  ofF  hand,  and  jump'd  fb  exactly  in  their  Opi-  nuJ  de  Mont- 
nions,  that  it  perfectly  furpriz'd  rae.     Father  Hardouin  thinks  that  the  Congregation 
four  firfl  Letters  intend  fome  proper  Names ;  and  Father  Dom  Bernard  "Lf'^her 
doubts  not  but  they  are  antient  Ionian  Characters,  anfwerins:  to  the  fol-  "aidouin "/ 

'  '  «  the  Society  of 

lowing :  f*[m. 

To    Xido  i$l)   '<XV<fl$tX$    >(Cf.l    TO    GCpilwi. 

Hnic  lapidi  ineji  Jlatna  &  fcabellam,  according  to  Father  Hardouin  :   In 

lapide  fum  (vel  efi)  Statua  &  Bafts,  according  to  Father  Bernard.  fealawg.  gr. 

lib.  2.  cap.  I. 

THE  nobleft  Columns  were  in  the  Front  ;  cylindrical,  but  aimoft  n^W. 
oval,  cut  plat-band  before  and  behind,  with  the  fides  rounded  and  fluted ; 
jtheir  biggeft  Diameter  was  three  foot  five  inches,  and  that  from  one  Plat- 
jband  (or  Lift)  to  the  other,  two  foot  four  inches  and  a  half:  the  Plat- 
bands were  one  foot  five  inches  broad,  and  the  Flutings  near  four  inches. 
Thefe  Columns  were,  in  feveral  Lays,  pofited  one  on  another,  and  pieced 
together  by  three  Keys,  whereof  thoie  on  the  fides  were  fquare,  and  en- 
ter'd  into  holes  two  inches  diameter  ;  that  in  the  middle  went  into  an 
Opening  half  a  foot  long,  an  inch  broad,  about  feven  inches  deep, 
with  a  fort  of  cylindrical  Nut,  as  appears  by  the  Figure  in  the  Margin. 
'Among  thefe  noble  Columns,  there  were  likewife  fome  round  and  fluted, 
|two  foot  two  inches  diameter. 

THIS  Temple  was  embcliihM  with  Variety  of  Statues,  and  innume- 
rable Altars :  moll  of  thofe  now  in  being  are  three  foot  within  two  inches 
diameter,  and  two  foot  two  inches  high  ;  but  their  Ornaments  have  quite 
loft  their  Beauty.  There  is  but  one  Corinthian  Chapiter  amongft  a  world 
of  Marble  Studs,  fuch  as  we  fet  at  a  Street's-end  to  keep  off  Carnages. 

THE  frightful  Heap  of  Marble  Ruins  feems  to  indicate  the  Situation 
of  fome  confiderable  Dome,  fupported  by  Columns  of  a  fingular  Order, 
:ach  Lay  being  faften'd  in  its  Centre  with  Keys  of  Copper,  fquare,  three 
inches  diameter  :  the  Lays  are  commonly  three  foot  fave  two  inches 
broad,  two  foot  eight  inches  deep ;  fome  of  thefe  are  cut  in  Panes,  others 
fluted  very  prettily. 

Vol.  I.  H  h  THE 


o 


oa  A  Vo  y  A  g  e  into  the  Levant. 

THE  Chapiters  of  thefe  Columns  were  very  extraordinary;  their 
Abacus  is  three  foot  five  inches  diameter,  three  inches  deep :  the  Tim- 
panum  is  nine  inches  deep,  and  is  a  fort  of  Quarter-round,  the  Bofs  (or 
Relievo)  whereof  leffeniug  like  a  Pear,  falls  on  a  Fafcia  two  inches  deep, 
with  three  Fillets,  beneath  which  begin  the  Flutings;  the  Plane  of  the 
Chapiters  which  bear  on  the  Shank  of  the  Columns  is  two  foot  diameter. 

HARD  by  the  Ruins  of  the  Temple,  you  fee  four  huge  pieces  of 

Marble  (24),  lb  mif-fliapen,  no  body  would  take  *em  to  be  Lions,  had 

not  Tradition  authoriz'd  them  for  fuch.     There  are  likewife  two  broken 

Termini,  (or  Bounder-Gods ;)  one  has  the  Head  of  a  Horfe,  the  other 

that  of  an  Ox :  thefe  Heads  are  fadly  batter'd,  nor  do  the  Termini  them- 

felves  feem  to  have  been  more  than  moderately  beautiful ;  yet  they  pur 

irefe  &  h     us  in  mind  of  the  Hippodrom,  or  Running-place  for  Horfes.     The  Athe- 

A  v''f  d>r""  nlm$  fa^d  fuch  kind  of  Exercifes  in  this  place ;  the  Infcriptions  are  alt 

tummy  iy  w- very  much  injured  by  Time. 

veph&th*.  WE  next  vifited  the  Portico  of  Philip  King  of  Mace  don  (25),  within 
lib.  3>WC)  '  about  fifty  paces  of  the  Temple-Ruins  ;  this  Portico  confifts  of  Columns 
and  Architraves  truly  magnificent,  and  becoming  the  Grandeur  of  a  mighty 
Prince  :  we  obferv'd  two  forts  of  Marble  Pillars  ■  the  pieces  of  the  big- 
ger kind  are  twelve  or  thirteen  foot  long,  half  fluted  and  half  pannell'd,. 
five  inches  five  lines  broad,  and  are  in  the  fame  pofition  with  thole  of  the- 
Frontifpiece  of  the  Temple,  but  they  are  no  more  than  two  foot  diame- 
ter from  one  Plat-band  to  another ;  the  Plat-bands  are  feven  inches  two* 
lines  broad;  the  Flutings  of  the  fides  are  two  inches  and  a  half  broad:: 
the  largeft  Diameter  of  thefe  Columns,  is  two  foot  four  inches. 

AMONG  the  Architraves  there  are  three  lying  pretty  near  each 
other,  with  Philip  of  Macedorfs  Infcription  :  each  Architrave  is  ten  foot" 
in  length,  two  foot  and  a  half  in  thicknefs,  one  foot  eight  inches  deep- 
On  one  of  thefe  pieces  is  graved  in  Characters  feven  inches  in  height, 

*  1  a  1  n  n. 

b  a  2  1  a  e  n  2,  on  the  other . - 

makeaonon,  on  the  third. 

THESE  Architraves  have  efcaped  breaking  and  carrying  away,  be- 
ing enchas'd  into  the  top  of  the  Columns  with  two  huge  holes  fquare 

and 


Defer ipt  Ion  of  the  IJlands  of  Delos.  235 

and  deep:  thefc  Columns  had  been  very  carefully  chofen,  and  mark'd  in  Lett.  VII. 
the  Quarry  with  an  oand  a  $  on  their  diameters;  fignifying,  as  I  fuppofe, 
c  p«<n\tu?,  the  King. 

FROM  this  Portico,  about  500  paces  on  the  left,  you  lee  (26)  on 
the  Hope  of  a  little  Hill,  the  Remains  of  a  beautiful  Marble  Theatre: 
the  (pace  between  thefe  two  Buildings  is  full  of  nothing  but  Ruins  of 
Houfes  built  either  with  Brick  ^or  Stone  of  the  Country.  In  all  appea- 
rance, this  part  of  the  Town  was  the  befl  peopled,  on  account  of  the 
Temple.  Thefe  Heaps  of  Rubbiih  contain  fome  Pillars  of  Granate ;  and 
clofe  by  the  Theatre  there  are  fome  of  Marble  fluted,  which  doubtleis  be- 
long to  fome  Temple. 

THE  Opening  of  the  Theatre  faces  the  South-Weft ;  it  was  all  of 

Marble  cut  different  ways  :  there  are  few  fquare  pieces,  moll:  of  'em  are 

flanting  and  with  various  Angles,  as  if  they  had  a  mind  to  husband  'em, 

by  not  diminiihing'emmore  than  needs  muft,  and  fb  would  not  cut  'em 

fquare ;  fome  are  cut  diamond-falhion.     The  Diameter  of  the  Theatre, 

including  the  Steps,  is  250  foot,  and  500  in  compafs:  the  left  Angle  of 

this  Edifice  was  fupported  by  a  fort  of  Tower  (27)  about  nineteen  foot 

:  thick  and  thirty  long.     The  Hill  in  this  place  falls  off,  whereas  on  the 

i  right  it  helps  to  fupport  the  Theatre.     Ten  or  twelve  paces  from  the 

!  Wall  there  was  a  large  Edifice  (28),  among  whofe  Ruins  there  is  ftill  a 

Cellar  or  Receptacle  for  Rain-water,  with  a  Mofaick  Pavement  about  the 

■,  edges. 

FORTY  paces  from  the  Opening  of  the  Theatre  (29)  even  with  the 
ground,  there's  a  fquare  Spot  a  hundred  paces  long,  twenty  three  foot 
wide,  and  of  a  confiderable  depth,  parting  in  nine  feparate  Lodges. 
M.  Spon  fufpe&s  'em  to  have  been  Receptacles  for  Water,  becaule  of  a 
Canal  which  feems  to  have  ierv'd  as  a  Feeder  to  one  of  thefe  Lodges :  but 
it  is  more  likely  their  ufe  was  to  keep  Lions  and  other  Beafts  for  the  pub- 
lick  Spectacles;  the  Canal  fupplying  'em  with  Water  to  drink.  Thefe 
Lodges  were. not  arch'd  over,  but  cover'd  with  huge  pieces  of  Granate 
cut  like  Beams,  with  proper  Openings  to  enlighten  the  place,  and  let  the 
Beads  pafs  to  and  fro.  From  thefe  Lodges  to  the  Sea,  they  reckon  345 
paces ;  fo  that  the  Theatre  could  not  be  above  380  paces  from  the  Sea. 

4.  Hh2  FROM 


2  %6 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 


FROM  the  Theatre  we  went  to  an  anticnt  Gate  (3 3)  of  the  City,  on 
the  Declivity  of  Mount  Cynthw  (32).     In  the  way  you  fee  three  Columns 
of  Granate  (30)  on  the  fame  line,  befides  a  great  many  others  tumbled 
down :  near  the  foot  of  the  Mountain  there  are  Remains  of  a  Temple 
(31),  as  may  be  fuppos'd  from  the  nine  Pillars  of  Marble  difpos'd  in  a 
round,  three  (landing  upright,  and  fix  fallen  to  the  ground :  rumaging  the 
Rabbit-holes,  they  lately  difcover'd  under  thefe  Columns  molt  beautiful 
Cellars.     The  Pavement  of  the  Temple  was  Mofaick. 
•o&i'»  KuV-       MOUNT  Cynthw  (32),  whence  Apollo  was  calPd  Cynthian,  is  an  ugly 
SiJ  Hill,  crofting  almofl  the  whole  Ifland  obliquely  :  this  Mountain  properly 
te.  plin.  Hift.  fDeakjna,  is  nothine  but  a  Block  of  Granate  of  the  ordinary  fort,  com- 

tfat.  In/.  4.        r  o  °  *  ' 

(a}.  12.        jnon  in  Europe;  that  is  to  fay,  a  fort  of  greyilh  Marble,  naturally  made 
up  of  little  bits  of  blackifh  Tak,  glittering  like  Glafs :    I  have  fome 
pieces  with  bits  of  Talc  as  thick  as  one's  Thumb.     There's  fcarce  an; 
Ifland  in  the  Archipelago,  but  what  abounds  with  this  Granate,  and  the 
Granitus  ex    Ro?nans  ufed  to  fetch  great  quantities  of  it  from  the  Ifland  Elba  on  the 
-•Etiwha.         Q0:xft  of  Tufcany.     M.  Felibien  fays,  the  Pillars  of  the  Pantheon  were  made,  jj c 
Diar.  itai.      thereof ;  but   Father  Montfaucon,  who  made  fuch  fine  Obfervations  irm* 
Italy,  gives  us  to  underfland,  that  of  the  fixteen  Pillars  of  the  Portico    ' 
of  that  Church,  part  is  of  Egyptian  Granate,  taken,  Suetoniw  fays,  out    M 
of  the  Quarries  of  Thebais ;  and  that  Granate  is  incomparably  beyond 
the  European  :  I  have  feen  Pillars  of  it  at  Confiantinople,  of  a  yellow- ■! 
dun,  with  here  and  there  a  fpot  of  the  colour  of  Steel.     The  Emperor 
Helio«abalw,  as  Lampridiw  informs  us,  defign'd  to  have  his  Statue  placed    « 
on  a  Column  of  Granate,  to  have  been  carv'd  like  that  of  Trajan,  but 
they  could  not  find  a  piece  long  enough  in  the  Quarries  of  Vpper  Egypt. 

I N  Lower  Normandy  there  are  Quarries  of  ordinary  Granate  on  the 
fide  of  Granville  ;  and  I  have  been  told  by  M.  Simon  of  the  Royal  Aca- 
demy of  Sciences,  who  let  me  have  fome  pieces  in  1 704,  that  it  was 
daily  ufed  in  that  Country  for  Door-cafes  and  Chimney-pieces.  Thefe 
Quarries  muft  reach  a  great  way,  fmce  M.  Gaudron  of  St.  iSlalo  lent  me 
feveral  Sea-plants  naturally  flicking  to  pieces  of  Granate.  Father  Trachet 
being  emplay'd  by  the  King  to  render  the  Dordogne  navigable,  dilco- 
■yer'd  the  fined  Granate  in  the  world  among  the  Sources  of  that  River. 

THE 


v! 


Defer iption  of  the  Iflands  of  Delos.  237 

.THE  Columns,  which  vulgarly  pafs  for  melted  Stone,  are  of  this  Lett.  VII. 
common  Granate :  thofe  of  St.  Saviour  at  Aix  in  Provence,  at  Orange  in 
the  Market,  at  Lyons  in  the  Abbey  of  At  nay,  are  of  the  fame  fort  of  mat- 
ter ;  and  we  may  aflure  our  felves,  that  all  Stones,  of  whatever  kind, 
calcine  in  the  Fire  inftead  of  melting. 

THE  Inhabitants  of  the  Iflands  about  Delos  call  Mount  Cyntfms  by  TWy»«7*dl 
the  name  of  Cajlro  ;  and  tho  it  is  hardly  fb  high  as  Mount  Valerian  near  "oyt  utyh  5 
Paris,  Strabo  makes  it  a  very  confiderable  Mountain.     From  the  Ruins  of  xj! Rel^Jeff. 
the  Town  at  an  old  Gate,  you  go  up  a  pair  of  Stairs  cut  in  that  Rock  : L,b' I0' 
this  Gate  (33)  is  a  fort  of  Corps-de-garde,  which  has  very  much  the  air 
of  the  primitive  Times ;  it  is  not  above  fix  paces  long,  five  broad :  the 
top,  which  a  Man  on  tip-toe  can  hardly  touch  with  his  hand,  is  cover'd 
with  pieces  of  Granate,  flat  like  Planks,  but  very  thick,  nine  foot  long, 
pofited  in  a  fharp-rifing  manner.     From  this  Corps-de-garde  you  go  up 
to  the  top  of  a  little  Hill  by  means  of  a  Marble  Stair-cafe,  mod  of 
whofe  Steps  have  been  taken  away,  and  carry'd  to  Mycone  to  make  Win- 
dow-cafes of.     On    the   top  of  the   Mountain  runs  a  finall  Efplanade,  Ax#?nfe«i 
where  are  ftill  to  be  feen  the  Remains  of  a  Citadel  that  commanded  the 
whole  Ifland  ;  the  Foundations  thereof  are  very  thick,  rectangular  :  this 
contain'd  fome  {lately  Edifice,  Temple,  or  Portico  ;    you  fee  likevvife 
Mofaick  Pavements,  Columns,  and  very  fine  Marble  Monuments. 

THE  Town  reach'd  no  farther  than  the  top  of  Mount  Cyntbm,  ex- 
tending to  Port  Fottrni  (3$);  and  in  its  compafs  was  the  Theatre,  as  is 
demonltrable  from  an  Infcription  now  in  St.  JS'Iarlfs  Library  at  Venice  : 
Father  Montfaucon  has  tranferibed  it  with  more  Care  and  Correctnefs  thanDiar,I,a1,  c-  ^ 
Gruteras  did.     It  tells,    that   among  the  Regulations  introdue'd  under  Pa3-  405. 
Ariftechmus,  in  favour  of  the  Athenian  Inhabitants  of  Delos,  they  fhould 
be  honour'd  with  a  Crown  of  Gold  when  they  folemniz'd  Minerva's  Fefti-  **»«&"»£ 
val,  and  that  Proclamation  thereof  iliould  be  made  on  the  Theatre  fituate  Minw -\-a\h 
in  the  City. 

TO  TE  nPftTON  nANA0HNAIOl2  E  n  O  I  H  2  E  N  TON  AH- 
MON  TON  A0HNAIAN  T  ft  N  EN  AHAfi  TIMH0HNAI  XlT- 
2P-I  ZTEfANjlI  ANAT.O  PET  MENftl  EN  TiiJ  EN  A2TEI  0EA- 
TPfll,  &c, 

THIS 


o 


r>8  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

THIS  Town  ran  on  from  Port  Foumi  beyond  the  little  Port  (14) 
as  far  as  the  Calanque  of  Scares*  (i j-),  taking  in  Philip  of  Macedon'i 
Portico  (25),  the  Temple  of  Apollo  (22),  the  Portico  of  Dionyfius  Euty- 
ches  (20),  the  oval  Baton  (17),  and  the  Gymnafium  (15).  The  Sea 
ferv'd  as  a  Rampart  to  that  Quarter  of  the  Town,  and  all  the  fine  Edi- 
fices flood  to  open  view.  From  Scardana  it  ipread  to  the  neighbouring 
Hill  (10),  and  join'd  New  Athens ;  afterwards  it  crofs'd  the  Ifland  as  far 
as  the  Coafl  oppofite  to  Mycone,  and  concluded  at  the  Iflhmus  of  the 
Tongue  of  Land  («)  at  the  North-Eafl :  it  did  not  flretch  far  Eaflward, 
becauie  of  a  very  rugged  Rock  thereabouts ;  and  it  is  fbmewhat  ftrange, 
that  the  Greeks,  who  were  of  an  enterprizing  Spirit,  did  not  level  thefe 
Inequalities.     The  Town,  in  fliort,  took  up  the  only  Plain  that  was  in 

Her.  Geog.     the  Ifland  :  and  this  is  the  Situation  Strabo  gives  it, 

AT  the  foot  of  Mount  Cyntlms  we  were  lhewn  a  fmall  Lodge,  where 

Afiutajr.  lived  feme  years  ago  an  Afcetick,  as  the  Greeks  call  'em  :  his  Name  waSi: 
Maximus,  he  was  a  Caloyer  of  Monte  Santo,  and  he  return'd  thither  to 
confine  himfelf  in  a  difmal  Solitude,  far  from  any  new  Object  to  diflurb 
his  Repofe  ;  for  the  Myconiots,  who  go  daily  to  Delos  to  cut  Wood,  to 
fifli,  or  to  hunt,  gave  him  too  frequent  Diftraclions.  He  dwelt  fome  time 
at  Stapodia,  a  bafe  Rock  beyond  Myeone  ;  but  he  was  faiti  to  quit  it,  on 
account  of  the  Scarcity  of  Water  to  drink.  This  humble  zealous  Re- 
clufe  was  going  to  Salonica,  to  preach  publickly  againfl  the  Mahometan 
Religion,  and  thereby  merit  Martyrdom  ;  but  his  Ghoflly  "Father  dif 
fuaded  him  from  it,  reprefenting  to  him  that  the  Turks  would  doubtlefs 
wreak  their  Rage  upon  the  other  Caloyers,  that  were  lefs  in  love  with 
being  impaled  than  he  was. 

HIS  Lodge  or  Hermitage  at  Delos  was  not  far  from  the  Ciflern  (54), 
which  was  fo  refrelhing  to  Meffieurs  Spon  and  Wheeler,  placed  on  the  Sum- 
mit of  the  Mountain,  over  againfl  the  great  Rematiari :  this  Ciflern,  or 
Receptacle  of  Water,  feems  to  have  belong'd  to  fbme  confiderable  Houfc : 
the  Arch-work  of  it  is  admirable. 

AFTER  wc had  fctch'd  a  compafs  round  Mount Cynthus,  we  fet  for- 
ward on  the  Road  to  Port  Foumi  (j$),  and  left  towards  the  South  fome 

A«M4f  h>  >&•  other  lefTer  Hills,  diverfify'd  with  thofe  Valleys  which  Euripides  calls  fer- 
iphij-T  ci^e :  at  Pre^eut  tney  are  far  from  being  fb,  accordingly  the  People  leave 


'cm 


Defcription  of  the  IJlands  of  Delos.  239 

Jem  unmanured,  whereas  thofe  of  the  Ifle  Rhenia  are  duly  cultivated.   Lctt.VIL 
On  our  way  to  the  Port  we  difcovcr'd  fome  Marble  Pillars  (36),  which  "-"^  v  ^~* 
look'd  as  if  they  bclong'd  to  a  Temple  :  we  faw  fome  of  Granate  Stone 
ready  form'd,  but  never  ufed;  as  alio  huge  unwieldy  Blocks  of  the  fame 
Stone,  which  were  doubtlefs  intended  for  confiderable  Works  :  the  Gra-    . 
nate  therefore  was  drawn  not  only  from  Mount  Cynthus,  but  likewife 
from  the  neighbouring  Hills,  between  the  Weft  and  the  South. 

PORT  Fourni,    the  Entrance  whereof  is  between  the  South   and 
South- Welt,  looks  to  the  South  Point  of  the  great  Rematiari ;  but  it  is  fit 
for  nothing  but  fmall  VefTels.     Along  the  Coaft,  you  fee,  in  the  very  Wa- 
ter, Remnants  of  antient  Foundations ;  lb  that  Port  Fourni,  likewife  call'd 
the  great  Port,  was  at  one  of  the  Extremities  of  the  Town :  there  are 
ibove  ilxty  Pillars  of  Granate  (37)  on  this  Coaft,  rnoft  of  'em  ftill  (land- 
ing ;  the  Remnants,  belike,  of  fome  Warehoufes    for  Merchandize :  the 
Antients  not  being  wont  to  ufeWood  in  their  Buildings,  thefe  Pillars  of 
1  Stone  ferv'd  inftead  of  wooden  Ports,  and  the  Architrave  over  'em  form'd 
!  :he  Door-cafe  of  their  Shops.     On  the  right  (3  8)  a  little  higher  than  thefe 
hilars,  you  lee  fome  Columns  of  Granate  pofitcd  in  the  lame  line,  as  if 
hey  had  been  the  Ruins  of  fome  Portico. 

THE  little  Port  (14)  was  likewife  fet  round  with  Buildings.  Where-  A7/M»ra*Mjj 
:ver  they  dig.  they  find  Mofaick  Pavements,  compos'd  of  fmall  Cubes  of 
slack  and  white  Marble,  fix'd  in  a  Lay  of  Mortar  a  foot  thick.  The 
*Jorth  Wind  does  not  in  the  leaft  affecl:  the  Saicks  in  this  Port;  for  it  has 
'  iwo  Elbows,  one  to  the  right,  the  other  to  the  left :  that  on  the  right, 
owards  the  Point  of  the  little  Rematiari,  has  a  Quickfand  or  Shelf  made 
>y  the  drift  of  Sand  and  Gravel. 

IN  the  Beginning  of  the  Year  1701,  there  was  nothing  to  be  feen  all 
bout  Mount  Cynthus  but  fmall  Gutters  of  Water  ;  the  biggeft  of  'em  ran 
rom  the  South-Eaft  to  the  South,  and  form'd  a  kind  of  Lake,  which  di£ 
harging  it  felf  at  the  foot  of  the  Mountain,  difappear'd  amidft  the  Ruins 
f  the  Marble  Temple  (3 1).  Toward  the  end  of  January  all  thefe  Gutt- 
ers were  dry,  and  nothing  but  a  Meer  (or  Pool  of  ftanding  Water)  re- 
lain'd  :  fo  that  it  is  not  probable  that  the  River  Inopas,  which  Strabo 
■laces  in  this  Ifland,  was  in  any  part  hereabouts.  Pliny  more  juftly  calls 
y  this  name  the  Fountain  (3)  which  is  below  the  Head-land  (1)  where 

we; 


240  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

we  landed.  We  made  fuch  diligent  Perquifition  in  this  Ifland  the  four 
Voyages  we  made  thither,  that  we  may  affirm  there's  no  running  Water 
there. 

AS  for  the  Stone  employ'd  in  all  thefe  large  Edifices  in  Delos,  we  ob- 
ferv'd  none  but  white  Marble,  Granate,  reddilh  Shards,  and  Bricks :  we 
law  but  one  Quarry  of  red  and  white  Jafper,  like  that  of  Langueioc. 
The  greatefl  part  of  the  white  Marble  is  thought  to  come  from  Faros  and 
Tenos,  where  are  ipacious  Quarries  towards  the  Coafl  that  faces  the  Ifle 
oiAndros ;  that  of  Naxos  is  likewife  full  of  white  Marble  :  as  for  Gra. 
nate,  Delos  and  Mycone  are  not  without  it. 

'TWERE  needlefs  here  to  recite  the  different  Names  which  were  for- 
/.*?•'*•  merly  given  to  the  Ifle  of  Delos ;  that  of  Lagia,  for  inflance,  does  not 

at  all  befit  it :  there  being  no  Hares  now  in  this  Ifland,  but  great  ftore  of 
Rabbits    magnificently  lodg'd  in  Marble ;    generally  thefe  two  forts  of. 
Creatures  deftroy  each  other,  and  cannot  live  together.     The  abundance, 
of  Quails  occafion'd  the  two  Delos 's  to  be  named  Ortygia  •  but  this  Name, 
would  more  properly  be  given  to  all  the  Iflands  of  the  Archipelago,  fmce 
in  certain  Seafons  of  the  Year  all  parts  of  'em  are  cover'd  with  thofe 
ir.vev.  U29-  Birds.     The  Scholiaft  of  Apohnias  pretends  that  Delos  was  named  Ortyrint 
u.i«t!'     s     from  a  Sifter  of  L&tona,  and  that  Delos  was  the  firfl  Name  of  the  Ifland : 
in  all  probability  this  Name  was  given  it  by  the  Inhabitants  of  the  neigh- 
bouring Iflands,  at  the  time  of  the  Inundation  caus'd  by  the  overflowing 
of  the  Euxine  into  the  Archipelago.     This  Ifland,  which  had  been  over- 
whelm'd  with  the  Waters,  appear'd  again,  and  once  more  manifefied  it 
felf,  as  its  Name  imports. 

THERE  are  at  prefent  no  Partridges  in  Delos,  but  a  world  of  Wood- 
cocks :  we  law  fome  Vipers  and  Land-Crocodiles,  or  beautiful  Lizzards, 
nine  or  ten  inches  long,  exactly  refembling  the  common  Crocodiles; 
their  Skin,  which  is  greyilh,  is  befet  with  fmall  pointed  Rifings  in  fome 
places,  and  as  it  were  fcaly  :  they  are  a  harmleis  Creature,  and  the  Chil- 
dren brought  us  a  great  many,  which  they  had  taken  at  Mycone  in  the 
holes  of  the  Walls.  Field-Mice  are  alfo  frequent  in  Delos,  where  they 
live  on  nothing  but  young  Rabbits :  the  belt  parts  of  the  Ifland  being  co- 
ver'd with  the  Ruins  and  Rubbiili  of  Marble,  are  by  no  means  fit  for  Cul- 
c  of  any  fort. 

ALL 


ftI4uL~L£. 


L/zstrd  catt  'd  Ko££o  £  ^A  o  s . 


Jo 


Defer iption  of  the  //lands  of  Delos.  241 

r  AL  L  theMafons  of  the  adjoining  Iflands  relbrt  hither  as  to  a  Quarry,  Lett.  VII. 
to  make  choice  of  fuch  pieces  they  beft  like  :  they  will  break  to  pieces  a  ^^^^^ 
fine  Column,  to  make  Steps  to  a  Stair-cafe,  Jambs  for  Windows  or  Doors  • 
they  will  carry  away  a  Pedeflal  to  turn  into  a  Mortar  or  the  like.  Both 
Turks,  Greeks,  and  Latins,  come  and  make  what  havock  they  pleale ; 
and  what  is  very  odd,  the  People  of  Mycone  pay  but  ten  Crowns  Land- 
Tax  to  the  Grand  Signior,  for  pofTefling  an  Ifland  which  was  the  Repo- 
fitory  of  the  publick  Treafure  of  Greece,  the  then  richeft  Country  of 
Europe. 

T  H E  Situation  of  Mount  Cynthut  tempted  us  to  make  a  Geographi- 
cal Station  on  it. 

The  Citadel  of  Twos  ftands  to  the  North-North- Well. 

Mycone  North-Eaft,  and  Cape  Alogomandra  Eaft-North-Eaft. 

Prafonifi  between  the  Eaft  and  Eaft-South-JEaft. 

Stapodia  Eaft. 

The  great  Delos  Weft. 

Syra  Weft. 

:Joura  Weft-North-Weft. 

Siphanto  South-Weft. 

Serpho  between  the  South- Weft  and  Weft-South-Weft. 

Serpho-PouU  Weft-South- Weft. 

Antiparos  South-South-Weft. 

Paros  between  the  South  and  South-South- Weft.  1 

Sikino  between  the  South-Eaft  and  Eaft-South-Eaft. 

NaxU  between  the  South-South-Eaft  and  South-Eaft. 

Amorgos  between  the  South-Eaft  and  Eaft-South-Eaft. 

FROM  the  lefier  Delos  we  went  over  to  the  greater  the  25  th  of  OBo-  tf  Staaia; 
her  1700,  by  the  Canal  which  feparates  thefe  two  Iflands,  and  which  is  £"£ Ei£' I0> 
not  above  five  hundred  paces  broad,  according  as  Strdo  has  determined  phnath. 
it.     This  Author,   Herodotus,  and  Stephens  the   Geographer,   call  the  PHN^  V'K' 
greater  Delos  by  the  name  of  Rhenia  :  it  is  eighteen  .miles  about,  and  is  m^  p"* 
as  it  were  divided  into  two  parts.  *  Rhene,  Arte- 

POLTCRATES  Tyrant  of  Samos,  Cotemporary  with  Cambyfes,  midc  3J£2jJS2J 
himfelf  mafter  of  this  Ifland  \  and  as  a  tokenof  his  confecrating  it  to  Deliw lib-12-  cnf-u 

nr    1    t  t  •  a     tr     Thucvd.  lib.t- 

VOl.  J.  I  1  ApOliO,  &  lib.  3. 


242  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Apollo,  he  faften'd  a  Chain  to  it  from  the  Ifle  of  Delos.  DatU,  GeneraF 
Herod.  Hb.  6. 0f  the  Rev  [tans,  declining,  out  of  refpeCt,  to  land  at  Delos,  went  aihore 
at  Rhenia ;  where  being  inform'd  that  the  Inhabitants  of  Delos  were  fled 
to  Tinos,  to  avoid  the  Fury  of  his  Troops,  he  difpell'd  their  Fears,  by 
protecting  to  them,  that  according  to  his  Prince's  Commands  and  his  own 
Intentions,  he  would  never  permit  any  ill  Treatment  of  a  Country  fo  re- 
verable  for  the  Birth  of  Apollo  and  Diana  t  and  he  confirm'd  his  good  In- 
tentions by  a  Prefent  of  three  hundred  Pound  of  Frankincenfe  to  burn  on 
their  Altars. 

THE  greater  Delos  is  no  longer  inhabited ;  its  Mountains  are  none  of 
the  higheft,  abounding  with  excellent  Paflurage ;  its  Soil  is  proper  for 
Corn  and  Wine.  The  Inhabitants  of  Mycone,  who  are  diligent  in  the  Cul- 
ture of  it,  breed  there  Horfes,  Beeves,  Sheep,  and  Goats  :  but  in  regard 
they  are  often  vifited  by  the  Corfairs,  who  come  thither  for  Quarters  of 
Refrefhmenr,  the  Myconiots  traufport  their  Flocks  back  into  their  owai 
Ifknd.  They  pay  the  Grand  Signior  but  twenty  Crowns  to  the  Land 
Tax  for  the  greater  Delos. 

OVER  againft  the  great  Rematiari,  at  the  foot  of  a  little  Hill  (i), 

where  the  Corfairs  place  their  Centry,  are  the  Ruins  of  a  large  Town 

Foot  of  a  Ga-  whichrun  along  the  Sea-fide  to  the  Point  of  GUropoda  :  this  Name  feems 

Ihagot,  in     t0  be  of  great  antiquity  ;  for  we  read  in  I  CaUimachus,  that  Delos  had  plenty 

SJf&^BM  of  thefe  forc  of  Birds  call'd  Cormorants  or  Gabians. 

M<ft*aGabian     THE  large  Pillars  of  am-colourM  Marble,  and  fbme  pieces  of  fluted: 

■i vi  Provence  * 

it  is  {caru  any  Columns  fcatter'd  on  the  top  of  this  Hill,  declare  there  had  been  fbme 
\heht  tbt.h"  ftately  Temple :  we  immediately  fix'd  our  eyes  on  the  moft  remarkable 
^fal'arJk  -  Column ;  tho  broke,  it  is  14  foot  long,  and  2  diameter  :  nothing  is  to  be 
c'ock  inking,  feen  all  round  but  Bales  of  Marble  ;  there  remains  indeed  but  one  fingle 
•'AiSuinf  *}  Corinthian  Chapiter.    The  Town  faced  that  of  Delos,  and  began  below 
foiiof  >**}?  tne  Temple,  as  may  be  judg'd  from  the  Ruins  :  part  of  this  Town  was 
Hy^n'.inDe-  defign'd  for  the  Burying-place  of  the  Delians  ;  and  in  that  Purification  o 
lum,  verf.  12.  jyeios  which  wasmade  under  the  Archon  Euthydemus,  all  the  Urns  of  th» 
Dead  were  carry'd  thither :  we  fhall  enlarge  on  this  Purification  by  and  by. 
GOING  down  to  the  great  Rematiari,  you  fee  nothing  but  Marbl< 
Tomb-ftones,  among  heaps  of  broken  Columns :  there  is  a  noble  one 
tho  without  Infcription,  ending  like  a  Dome,  flat  at  top,  adorn'd  with 

Foliage 


/■•/.J. 


Jii^.Z-f-2. 


•-5 


1 


///i  ////r////t  2c?n/v/{'//i   jfi//  to  /<"  ^<<vf  ///  yareater 


Ue/vrf . 


&v'&tar  cf  BdccAus  in.  /As  ///?/<-  Dc/oj 


Defcription  of  the  Tjlahds  of  Delos.  243 

Foliage.    The  Coverture  of  moft  of  the  reft  is  like  a  Cradle,  a  lit-  Lett.  VII. 

tie  doping  on  each  fide,  and   on  which  are  cut  in  Relievo  Plates  0f  yA?^v/^J 

Marble  faften'd  by  fmall  Ribs  :  the  Ridge   of  theie  Covertures  bears 

a  fort  of  a  fmall  Trough  as  in  the  Figure.    We  at  firft  fancy'd  the  ufe 

of  it  was  to  preferve  Water  for  the  Birds  to  drink ;  but  there's  no  need 

of  luch  a  Precaution  in  a  Country  where  it  but  feldom  rains:  it  is  more 

likely  this  Trough  was  to  receive  the  Libations;  for  Athen&ns  obferves,DeiPn-lib."-! 

that  Libations  were  made  on  the  Tomb-ftones.    The  following  Epitaph 

is  on  one  of  thefe  Tomb-ftones ;  by  the  Stile  it  is  exceeding  antient. 

IlAfiTIA      ATAOT 
TTNHXPHSTH       X  A  I  P  E. 

T  O  our  great  (urprize,  we  counted  above  fixfcore  Altars  on  our  way 

.to  Glarof/oda,  amidft  the  Ruins  of  Houfes  which  to  this  very  day  look 

.ftately  :  they  were  not  the  Hofpitals  nor  Country-Houfes  of  the  Delians, 

as  we  at  firft  believ'd.    By  the  vaft  multitude  of  Marble  Fragments,  the 

Town  mult  have  been  very  populous,  and  accordingly  it  is  call'd  a  Me-  phnmn 

r  ,  ,  MHTPOnO- 

tropolis  on  the  Reverie  of  a  Medal  of  Alexander  Severn  ;  this  Reverie  aic.  Gokz. 
reprefents  a  Pallas  with  a  Buckler  in  her  Right  Hand,  and  a  Spear  in  her 
Left.     There  is  in  the  King's  Cabinet  a  Medal  of  this  Ifland,  with  the 
Head  of  Maximus ;  on  the  Reverfe  is  a  Goddefs  clad  in  a  plain  Tunick, PHNinN- 
ihe  bears  Victory  in  her  Right  Hand,  and  a  Spear  revers'd  in  her  Left. 
'Tisftrange  that  Strabo,  otherwife  very  exact,  and  who  has  not  omitted  fP«f«*  ijSfss 
the  Tombs  of  the  Ifland  of  Rhenia,  mould  call  it  a  little  defart  Ifland.      iZ,  &!L  Rer. 
A  S  for  its  Magnitude,  it  is  three  times  bigger  than  Delos,  nor  was  it  Ge°2'     ' l0" 
much  inferior  in  Magnificence,  if  we  may  guefs  by  its  Monuments  of 
Antiquity  :  moft  of  the  Altars  are  cylindrical,  adorn'd  with  Feftoons 
With  Heads  of  Oxen  or  Rams ;  theie  Altars  are  moft  commonly  three 
foot  and  a  half  high,  and  three  foot  fave  two  inches  diameter :  that  which 
I  have  caus'd  to  be  grav'd,  was  perhaps  dedicated  to  Bacchus,  as  is  proba- 
ble from  the  Bunch  of  Grapes  hanging  below  the  Feftoons.     There  are 
no  Statues  left  among  theie  old  Marble  Monuments  ;  they  were  too  near 
the  Sea,  and  confequently  too  liable  to  be  ihip'd  ofT     To  conclude,  it  is 
not  likely  this  Town  was  built  after  Strabo's  death  ;  for,  according  to 

I  i  2  him. 


244  «  Voyage  info  the  Levant. 

him,  the  little  Delos  rather  run  to  decay,  than  grew  more  flouriflihig, 
after  Aaguftus's  Reign ;  and  the  Ifland  Rhenia  had  nothing  to  fupport  it 
ielf,  but  the  Commerce  of  this  little  Ifland. 

THE  Point  of  Glaropoda,  where  the  Town  concluded,  was  bounded' 
by  fome  magnificent  Edifice,  built  in  a  round  figure,  and  adorn'd  with ! 
„  Columns  and  Architraves  of  Marble.     Port  Colonne,  fituate  on  another; 

Point  over  againft  Glaropoda,  ihews  likewife  that  it  was  border'd  with  I 
magnificent  Buildings,  which  they  are  every  day  demolifhing,  fbr  lbme 
vile  ule  or  other.     We  obferv'd  there  a  Crofs  of  Jerufalem-,  and  we  were 
told  that  the  Stones  were  carry'd  away  to  Mycone,  where  were  feveral  of  I 
theie  CrofTes  well  carv'd. 
THESE  CrofTes  left  us  no  room  to  doubt  that  this  was  a  Fort  oi 
Tf.it)  (uiM&    the  Knights  of  St.  John.     Cantacuzenus  reports,  that  the  Emperor  or-i 
S^*!**.  ^&  the  Building  of  a  Fortrefs  in  the  Ifle  of  Scio,   to  cover  it  from; 
Hift.  Lb.  4.    t^e  iufuits  of  their  Neighbours,  and  efpecially  the  Hofpitlers  of  Delos- :' 
Deium  tunc    on  which  Rontanus  obferves,  that  at  that  time  the  Knighrs  of  Rhodes  were 
nus'Teiigiofb-  in  poiTeffion  of  Delos,  invited  thither,  doubtJefs,  by  the  Conveniency  of; 
^Pomificf  its  Harbours.     The  Mahometans  began  to  infeft  all  the  Archipelago,  and  the 
ahUdii'&Me-  KniSnts  found  Delos  t0  De  of  great  ufe  to  'em  againft  thofe  Pirates  :  the 
iitenfes  appei-  Knights  favour'd  the  Defigns  of  the  Genoefe,  and  fupply'd  Domimck  Cau~ 
t7n.ZXcap,Ti.»ea  with  five  Galliesto  go  and  teize  Lesbos,  as  will  be  fhewn  hereafter. 
'£££'        BEYOND  Glaropoda,  the  Ifland  is  hoUow'd  like  a  Half-moon,  at  the 
farther  end  whereof  is  a  narrow  piece  of  Land  which  joins  the  two  parts 
and  is  not  above  fifty  paces  broad ;  in  time  the  Waves  may  chance  tol 
carry  it  away,  and  then  the  great  Delos  will  be  divided  into  two  Iflands. 
iWSkinc*.  The  beft  Port  of  Rhenia  is  call'd  the  Maftick-Port,  from  the  abundance 
of  Maftick-Trees  that  grow  about  ir. 


1  am,  dec, 


LET- 


/.->/./. 


J'a.J  ■  1.4- f  ■ 


tel.X. 


flJ3a/j-c>  Jb//sifo  af^  //ar/-/f.  /i'///Wi  /rrnnt/w  ///  //  J/7s  ofJpra  . 


■jJ^Sas-reut 


u*f  *  w'^L 


K4.1-  &93*L 


t?f^  /k/r/i/w/ts  i/i  tfu  IsLi/id  ofJh//io<r. 


C  245  > 


t»*& 


LETTER    Vim 

3Tb  Monfeigneur  the  Count  de  Pontchartrain, 
Secretary  of  State,  &c 

My  Lord, 

E  are  now  got  into '  Syra,   the  moft  Catholick  Ifland  of  all  oefiriftua »/ 
the '  Archipelago.     To  (even   or  eight  Families   of  the  Greek  svwj 'tw 
Communion,  there  are  above  6000  Souls  of  the  Latin  ;  and  mia'r'3TT  ^ 

7  cionilij  joiTra, 

when  thefe   intermarry  with  the  Greeks,  the  Children  are  all  Andi°s>  «»<* 
Roman-Catholicks :  whereasat  Naxos  the  Boys  follow  their  Father's  Way  .  2Tp0v 
of  Worlhip,    and  the  Girls  that  of  the  Mother.     Thefe  Bleflings  axe  Strab- 
©wing  to  the  French  Capuchins,  who  are  mightily  belov'd  in  this  Ifland,  Nwb/w  2*- 
and  are  very  intent  upon  inftru&ing  a  People  naturally  inclined  to  Good,  ^  *?omer- 
avow'd  Enemies  to  Fraud,  full  of  worthy  Sentiments*  and  fo-laborious^.- 
there's  no  fleeping  in  this  Ifland;  not  in  the  night-time,  becaufe  of  theSvR,0S,SYRAa 
univerfal  Din  made  by  the  Hand-mills  each  Man  works  at  to  grind  his 
Corn  ;  nor  in-  the  day-time,  becaufe  of  the  Rumbling  made  by  the 
Wheels  for  fpinning  of  Cotton. 

THE  Houfe  and  Church  of  the  Capuchins  are  prettily  built,-  we  were 
rejoic'dto  lee  the  Banner,  of  France  difplay'd  at  the  corner  of  their  Ter- 
rafs:  Father  Jacinthe  of  Amiens,  a  fenfible  Man,  and  the  Conful  o£Ti- 
tjw's  Subftitute,  entertain'd  us  in  the  moft  obliging  manner..  Thefe  Fa- 
thers direct  the  Confciences  of  twenty  five  Nuns  of.  the  third  Order  of 
St.  Francis,  who  lead  an  exemplary  Life,  tho  not  cloifter'd.  The  Greeks 
have  but  two  Churches  in  Syr  a,  ferv'd  by  a  Papas.  There's  but  one 
Turk,  viz.  the  Cadi;  and  he  too  is  fain  to  take  flicker  among  the  Capu- 
chins, 


■i 4.6  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

chins,  when  there  appears  any  Corfair  about  the  Ifland.  They  chufe 
two  Adminiftrators  every  year:  in  1700,  the  Capitation  and  Land-Tax 
amounted  to  4000  Crowns. 

W  E  landed  there  the  26th  of  OEtober.    Syra  is  about  thirty  miles  from 

Mycone,  reckoning  from  one  Cape  to  the  other ;  but  it  is  forty  from  the 

Port  of  Mycone  to  that  of  Syra :  this  Port  will  receive  the  biggeft  Ships, 

'Syu>5<iujm  its  Entrance  is  to  the  Eaft.     I  The  Ifland,  which  is  but  25  miles  about, 

vig?ntiUmiiHae  wants  for  no  manuring,  and  produces  excellent  Wheat,  tho  but  a  fmall 

STSs,  quantity,  abundance  of  Barley,  plenty  of  Wine  and  Figs,  as  alfo  Cotton 

Mmianuscen-  ancj  Olives,  which  the  Inhabitants   pickle  for  ufe.     Tho  Syra  is  verv 

tuin  fexaginta.  '  *•  J  J 

pim.  lib,  4.  mountainous,  it  is  deftitute  of  Wood,  and  all  their  Fewel  is  Shrubs  ;  the 
.tap.  u,  ^ir  -s  jaumicjj  an(j  cqI^j.  rnan  1q  moft  of  the  other  Iflands  of  the  Arcbi- 
ZuGolot,  'iv-  pelago  :  Homer  has  given  an  advantageous  Deicription  of  it. 
«-a»3»V,*W-  THE  Burrough  is  a  mile  from  the  Port,  incircling  a  finall  but  deep 
Sdfffi  T'  Hill,  on  the  point  whereof  are  fituated  the  Biihop's  Houfe  and  the  Epif- 
yerf.  405.  COpai  Church  dedicated  to  St.  George :  that  Prelate's  Income  is  but  400 
Crowns  a  year,  but  for  his  Confolation  he  has  the  bed  Body  of  Clergy 
in  all  the  Levant,  confiding  of  forty  Priefts.- 

O  N  the  Port  are  feen  the  Ruins  of  an  antient  and  large  City,  call'd 

Ctpoc.    in  former  times  Syros,  as  well  as  the  Ifland  ;  as  appears  by  an  Infcription 

brought  from  the  Sea-fide  to  the  Burgh,  and  fix'd  into  a  corner  of  the 

Church  :  therefore  'tis  a  miftake  to  think  that  Syra  comes  from  a  vulgar 

*k^'  *;&;•  Qreek  '  Word,  fignifying  a  Miftrefs  or  Lady. 

a^'itki*.  O  N  the  left  hand  of  the  Bifliop's  Door  on  a  Baft-Relief  is  repreiented 
a  Siftrum  of  the  Antients,  or  an  Inftrument  ufed  in  Battel  inftead  of  a 
Trumpet,  as  likewife  lome  other  Inflruments ;  it  was  taken  out  of  the 
fame  Ruins,  among  which  is  flill  to  be  feen  a  fair  flat  Front  of  a  Wall, 
built  of  huge  Scantlings  of  baftard  Marble,  cut  facet-wife.  There  have 
been  likewife  hewn  thence  feveral  pieces  of  white  Marble,  and  elpecially 
of  Columns,  which  ftand  before  the  Capuchins  Church. 

THE  chief  Spring  of  the  Ifland  is  very  antient,  and  runs  pretty 
near  the  Town :  the  People  have  I  know  not  what  Tradition,  that  in 
antient  times  the  cuftom  was  for  every  body  to  go  and  purify  themfelves 
in  it,  before  they  came  to  Delos.  There  is,  it  feems,  an  Infcription  at 
this  Spring,  but  they  told  us  of  it  too  late  to  go  fee  it. 

THE 


AV.  Z. 


r.i,>  z-ir? 


-^•J^w//^'  SYRA  . 


ik 


Defer ipt ion  of  the  I/land  of  Syra.  247 

THE  Iflands  round  Syra  cannot  be  the  Anticyrx  fo  renown'd  for  the  Lett.  VIII. 
Herb  Hellebore :  thefe  are  in  the  Gulph  of  Zjiton  beyond  the  Negropont,  V^"V"N^ 
over  againft  Mount  Oeta,  where  Hercules  is  faid  to  have  breath' d  his  laflr. 
Inftead  of  Hellebore,  we  found  in  Syra.  near  the  Haven  a  Plant  which 
pleas'd  us  exceedingly ;  it  is  that  which  produces  the  Manna  of  Perfia. 
Rauvolphus  a  Phyfician  of  Ausbourg,  who  difcover'd  it  in  his  Voyage  to- 
the  Levant  in  1537,  lpeaks  of  it  under  the  name  of  Albagi  Maurorum', 
but  he  is  fb  very  luccincl,  as  the  manner  was  then,  that  I  thought  it  not 
amifs  to  examine  it  fully  on  the  fpot,  left  we  fhould  not  meet  with  it 
again  in  our  Voyage.     It  feem'd  fomewhat  odd  for  a  Plant,  which  is  one 
of  the  Beauties  of  the  Plains  of  Armenia,  Georgia,  and  Per  fa,  to  be  as 
it  were  confined  to  the  Iflands  of  Syra  and  Tims.    M.  Wheeler  (aw  \i  in 
Tims,  and  took  it  for  a  Plant  undefcribed.    I  have  made  a  particular  Ge-  coroi.jnji.iLi} 
nus  of  it,  under  the  name  of  Alhagi.  Herb'  54' ' 

ITS    Roots  are  woody,  four  or  five  lines  thick,  brown,  not  very  AmAc-iMa* ;- 
hairy ;  its  Stalks  are  near  three  foot  high,  about  two  lines  thick,  pale  Voif.  94.  Ge-. 
green,  {leek,  hard,  branchy  below,  attended  with  Leaves  like  thofe  of  "'fnaJ^':il™ 
Rupturewort :  the  biggeft  are  feven  or  eight  lines  long,  three  broad,  pale  liis  Poiygom. 
green,  and  fleek,  faften'd  to  a  very  fliort  Pedicule,  rounded  at  the  other  Genifta  fpin«^ 
end  where  they  are  terminated  by  a  very  delicate  point  j  which  is  nothing  b^  wild] 
elle  than  the  Extremity  of  the  Stalk  croiTing  the  Leaves  without  forming  Polygonum 
any  fenfible  Nervation  :  by  the  Leaves  is  a  hard  firm  Prickle,  from  five  J^f1'^. 
lines  to  an  inch  long,  ftreak'd  and  reddiih  at  the  end.     The  Prickles  of 
the  Branches  are  lefs,  and  grow  out  of  the  Bafes  of  the  Leaves ;  thofe 
where  the  Branches  and  Stalks  end,  are  an  inch  and  a  half  long,  finer 
than  the  others,  and  with  two  or  three  leguminous  Flowers  on  each3 
about  half  an  inch  long,  purple-colour'd  in  the  middle,  reddifh  about  the 
lims,  and  rounded.    The  Under-leaf,  which  is  obtufe  and  purple-colour'd;  - 
ferves  as  a  white  Wrapper  to  a  white  Sheath,  fring'd,  yellow-topt,  and 
covers  a  Peftle  four  lines  long,  ending  in  a  Thred...   The.  Cup  is  a  line 
and  a  half  long,  pale  green,  fleek,  moderately  fluted.     The  Flower  being 
gone,  the  Peftle  turns  to  a  Cod  about  an  inch  in  length,  bending  like  & 
Sickle,  articulated,  reddiih,  two  lines  thick  where  the  Seeds  are  inclos'd  3 
for  the  Articulations  are  very  narrow  and  eafily  broken,     Thefe  Seeds  are 
brown,  a.  line  long,  fomewhat  more  than  a  line  broad ;  the  Structure  of 

(ft: 


248  A  VotAge  into  the  Levant. 

the  Cod  or  Pod  is  what  diftinguifhes  this  Plant  from  the  Species  of  Broom 
and  GemJiaSfartium. 

I  K  NO  W  not  whether  the  Alhagi  yields  Manna  in  the  Ifles  of  Syr* 
and  Tinos ;  but  this  I  know,  the  People  of  the  Country  are  ignorant  that 
this  Plant  furnifhes  a  Drug  that  purges  full  as  well :  it  is  chiefly  about 
Taurti,  a  Town  in  Perjia,  that  iris  gather'd,  under  the  name of  Trungibin 
©r  Terenjabin,  reported  in  AvicmnorzxA  in  Serapion ;  thofe  Authors  thought 
it  fell  upon  certain  prickly  Shrubs,  whereas  it  is-  only  the  nutritious  Juice 
of  the  Plant  we  have  been  defcribing. 

DURING  the  great  Heats,  you  perceive  fmall  Drops  of  Honey  fhed 
on  the  Leaves  and  Branches  of  thefe  Shrubs  ;  thefe  Drops  harden  into 
Grains  about  the  oignefs  of  Coriander-Seed.  They  gather  thofe  of  the 
Alhagi,  and  make  'em  into  reddifh  Cakes,  full  of  Duft  and  Leaves,  which 
alter  the  Colour,  and  leflen  their  Virtue.  This  Manna  is  very  inferior  to 
the  It  dim  1  two  forts  are  fold  in  Perjia  ;  the  befl  is  in  little  Grains,  the 
other  is  like  a  Pafte,  and  contains  more  Leaves  than  Manna.  The  ordi- 
nary Dofe  of  both  is  from  25  to  50  Drams,  as  they  term  it  in  the  Levant, 
where  they  difTolve  it  in  an  Infufion  of  Sena. 
Strab.Rer.  PHERECTDES,   one  of  the   antienteft  Philofophcrs  of  Greece, 

m>«  Laert  Mailer  of  Pythagoras,  and  the  Difciple  of  PitUcus,  was  born  m  Sjra, 
in  pherec.  where  they  kept  his  Solar  Quadrant  as  a  Monument  of  his  Capacity : 
Iherec?  V°Ce  many  afcribe  the  Invention  to  him ;  others  are  of  opinion  he  learnt  it  of 
Cic.  Quift.  -the  Phenicians,  whofe  Books  he  was  well  acquainted  (with.  But  Cicero 
cap.C'i56.'  commends  that  great  Man  on  a  far  more  remarkable  account,  namely, 
2»<>-m/  $  $  /for  being  the  firft  that  taught  the  Immortality  of  the  Soul;  tho  he  is 
w  zj&  if    chargrd'  by  Suidas  with  publifhing  the  Tranfmigration  of  the  Soul  from 

Vhq.  Diog.      one  Body  int()  another# 

BEFORE  we  left  Syr  a,  we  fail'd  not  to  make  our  Geographical 
Obfervations : 

Andros  is  to  the  North  of  this  Ifland. 

'Jour a  to  the  North-  Eaft. 

Zi*  to  the  Weft-North-Weft. 

Thermia  between  the  Weft  and  Weft-North- Weft 

■Mycone  to  the  Eaft. 

■;twos'tQ  the  North-Eaft. 

The 


*&**» 


AV.S, 


Ta.-^/J' 


Defer iption  of  the  IJland  of  Thermia.  24.9 

The  Great  Debs  between  the  Eaft  and  the  Eaft-South-Eaft.  Lett.  VIII. 

The  Mountain  of  Zja,  of  Naxos  between  the  South-Eaft  and  the  ^-^V^v»* 
Eaft-South-Eaft. 

FROM  Syra  we  directed  our  courfe  to  Thermia,  another  Ifland,  25  Thermia. 
miles  from  Syra  from  Cape  to  Cape,  but  above  40  from  one  Port  to  the 
other  :  for  if  you  would  go  into  the  Canal  of  Thermit,  you  mult  fetch  a 
compafs  of  almoft  one  half  of  Syr  a.  For  the  fame  realbn  they  reckon 
but  12  miles  from  Thermia,  to  ZJa,  tho  'tis  $6  from  one  Port  to  the 
other.  The  N'earnefs  of  Thermia  to  ZJa,  fuffers  us  not  to  doubt  that 
Thamia  is  the  Ifland  of  Cythnos,  fince  Dtc&archns  places  it  between  Ceos  De  statu  Grace 
and  Ser'tpbus ;  it  produced  an  eminent  Painter,  whom  Euflathius  calls  Cv_  Comment- ad 

r  '         r  '  J  J     Dionyf.Pciieg. 

di:t.<.     The  Cheefes  of  Cythnos  were  much  efteem'd  by  the  Antients,  ac- 
cording; to  the  Report  of  Stephens  the  Geographer  and  Julius  Pollux :  it  k*} _  kJ^-w 
was  likewife  here  that  a  Tempeft  drove  the  counterfeit  Nero,  a  Slave,  a  Zk\  \uyeJ- 
great  Lutenilt,  together  with  his  Followers,  Birds  of  the  fame  Feather,  pof-  StePh" 
as  Tacitus  tells  us.  Hift.  lib.  2. 

5        ft 

W  E  arrived  at  Thermia  the  Night  between  the  30th  and  3  ift  of  Otto-  c  p"   ' 
her,  and  were  forced  to  lie  in  a  Chappel,  where  we  were  like  to  have  our 
Throats  cut.     Some  Turks  of  Negropont,  who  were  in  a  large  Caick  near 
ours,  feeing  our  Sailors  ftripping  off  the  Skins  of  a  couple  of  Sheep  we 
had  bought  at  Syra,  went  and  rais'd  the  Town  upon  us,  as  if  we  were 
Banditti,  come  to  plunder  the  Port.     Upon  this,  the  Country  People  took 
to  their  Arms:  but  as  good-fortune  would  have  it,  the  Conful  of  France 
M.  Janachi,  whom   they  rais'd  out  of  bed  to  go  along  with  'em,  in- 
quiring what  fort  of  figure  thefe  pretended  Banditti  made,    and  being 
told  that  four  of  'em  wore  Hats,  rightly  concluded  they  could  not  be 
Banditti,  who  feldom  have  fo  much  as  a  Thrum-Cap  to  their  pates.     He 
■herefore  pray'd  the  Townfmen  of  Thermia  to  go  home  again,  affuring 
:hem  that  they  were  Merchants,  Frenchmen  belike,  come  to  buy  Corn 
ind  Silk  :  for  all  that,   they  made   him  difpatch  away  two  of  his  Do- 
nefticks,  to  go  and  get  intelligence  of  us.     We  were  furpriz'd  about  Three 
11  the  Morning,  to  fee  entring  the  Chappel  two  Perfons,  who  with  their 
Carbines  cock'd  demanded  who  we  were,  and  all  that  :  when  we  had 
atisfy'd  them,  they  told  us,  that  had  it  not  been  for  the  prudent  Remon- 
Vol.  I.  K  k  ftrances 


250  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

ftrances  of  the  C©nful  of  France,  we  had  gone  to  pot,  every  Mother's 
Son  of  us.  Being  recover'd  from  our  Fright,  we  waited  on  the  Conful 
to  thank  him :  there  we  had  the  mortification  to  fee,  among  our  Accu- 
fers,  a  Turk  whom  we  knew  Waivod  at  Serpho,  and  who  was  more  alarm'd 
than  any  other,  becaufe  he  had  pack'd  up  and  was  carrying  off  his  ill- 
gotten  Treaiure  ;  he  begg'd  us  a  thoufand  pardons,  and  recommended 
us  earneftly  to  the  Conful's  Favour  and  Protection. 

THE  Ifland  of  Thermia,  unlike  moft  of  the  Iflands  of  the  ArchU 
pelago,  is  not  fteep  ;  its  Soil  is  good  and  well-improv'd,  it  affords  little- 
Wheat,  but  a  great  deal  of  Barley,  and  a  fufficiency  of  Wine  and  Figs 
fcarce  any  Oil  at  all.  The  Silk  of  this  Ifland  is  faid  to  be  as  good  as 
that  of  Twos :  this  of  Thermit  ufually  fells  for  a  Crown  a  Pound,  iome- 
times  a  hundred  Sous,  nay  two  hundred,  which  brings  confiderable  Profit 
to  the  Country ;  for  they  make  there  above  1200  pound  weight  of  char 
Commodity.  Their  other  Trade  lies  in  Barley,  Wine,  Honey,  Waxy 
Wool ;  their  Cotton  Manufacture  is  only  for  their  own  ule  1  they  make-; 
a  pretty  fort  of  gauze  or  yellow  Veils,  which  the  Women  of  the  Ifland 
wear  about  their  heads.  Thermia  likewife  affords  plenty  of  Provifion  • 
there  is  fuch  a  prodigious  quantity  of  Partridges,  that  they  export  Cages 
full  of  'em  to  the  neighbouring  Iflands,  where  they  fell  'em  for  two  Pa- 
rats  (Three-pence)  a-piece  •  the  place  has  few  Rabbits,  and  no  Hares  at 
all :  as  for  Wood,  they  have  none  to  fpeak  of,  Co  they  burn  nothing 
but  Stubble. 

THE  principal  Village  of  Thermia  bears  the  fame  Name ;  the  other 
which  is  not  fb  large,  is  call'd  Silaca  :  both  together  contain  about  6 poo 
Souls ;  the  Inhabitants  of  the  whole  Ifland  generally  pay  5000  Crowns  to 
the  Capitation,  and  to  the  Land-Tax  they  were  made  to  pay  6000 
Crowns  in  1700.  As  for  their  Religion,  they  are  all  of  the  Greek  Rite, 
except  ten  or  twelve  Latin  Families,  moft  of  'em  French  Mariners,  who 
have  but  one  Chappel,  and  that  a  poor  one,  in  the  Conful's  Counrry- 
Houfe :  it  is  lupply'd  by  a  Vicar,  who  is  allow'd  fifteen  Crowns  a  year 
by  the  Bifhop  of  Finos.  The  Greek  Biihop  there  is  pretty  well  to  pafs, 
and  has  above  fifteen  or  fixteen  Churches  in  the  Town  of  Thermia  alone. 
1  s«t«£c«.  xjie  principal  Church  is  dedicated  to  our  '  Saviour  ;  it  Hands  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  Town,  and  is  a  very  handfbme  Building :  the  Monafteries  are 

X  Bioft 


Defer option  of  the  IJland  of  Thermia.  2  5  r 

mod:  of  'em  empty,  except  two  call'd  by  the  name  of  the '  Virgin,  and  as  Lett.VIIT 
many  by  that  of  '  St.  Michael  the  Archangel.  '^u^;^* 

The  Port  of  Sant-Erini,  two  miles  from  the  Village,  is  very  conve-  "°  T4'*£- 
nient  for  Merchant-Ships,  as  well  as  that  of  St.  Stephen  to  the  fide  of 
Silaca :  this  latter  looks  South-South-Eafl,  but  the  other  North-North- 
Eaft  and  North-Eaft. 

BESIDES  the  Wells  that  are  round  the  Villages,  the  Ifland  wants gepmos, 
for  no  Springs  ;  the  molt  noted  are  the  hot  ones,  and  from  them  the  u>kt/ucma 
Ifland  takes  its  name :  thefe  are  at  the  bottom  of  one  of  thofe  parts  of  Th"mia>  *"<* 

r  by  Corruption 

the  Port  that  is  impervious,  North-Eaft  as  you  enter  on  the  right.  The  Femiij  and 
chief  of  the  Springs  boils  up  at  the  foot  of  a  little  Hill  in  a  Houfe,  whi- 
ther they  go  to  wain  their  Linen,  and  fweat  when  they're  indifpos'd ;  the 
others  bubble  up  Ibme  paces  further  off^  and  form  a  Stream  which  runs  into 
the  Sea,  from  whence  all  thefe  Waters  come ;  for  they  are  very  brackifh, 
and  no  doubt  contract  their  Heat  in  eroding  the  Hill  amidfl  Iron  Mines 
or  ferruginous  Subftances,  which  are  the  Caufe  of  moll  hot  Waters,  as  I 
have  laid  down  in  my  Defcription  of  Milo.  Thefe  of  Thermia,  turn  the 
Oil  of  Tartar  white,  but  caufe  no  alteration  in  a  Solution  of  corrofive 
Sublimate,  any  more  than  the  warm  Springs  of  Protothalajfa  in  Milo,  which 
are  abundantly  hotter  than  thefe  we're  (peaking  of.  The  antient  Baths  of 
Therwia  were  in  the  midft  of  the  Valley,  where  flill  remain  the  Fragments 
of  a  Repofitory  built  of  Brick  and  Stone,  with  afmall  Trench  to  conduct 
1  the  Water  to  what  part  they  pleas'd  :  thefe  Waters  flill  preferve  their  Vir- 
tue, but  have  loll  their  Reputation,  becaufe  none  refort  to  'em  but  fuch 
Invalids  whom  all  the  mineral  Waters  in  the  World  will  never  cure. 

I N  this  Ifland  you  fee  likewife  the  two  antient  Towns  of  Hebreocajtro 
and  Paleocaftro :  Hebreocaftro,  or  the  Jews  Town,  is  to  the  South- Weft 
on  the  edge  of  the  Sea,  and  on  the  flope  of  a  Mountain  near  a  Port 
where  is  a  finall  Rock.  The  Magnificence  and  Grandeur  of  thefe  Ruins 
arc  urprizing,  and  plainly  fpeak  it  to  have  been  a  puifTant  City,  nay  that 
very  City  Dic^nrchm  makes  mention  of.  Among  thefe  Ruins,  we  were  De  Statu  &■«• 
led  into  three  beautiful  Caverns  cut  in  the  Rock  by  manual  Labour,  and 
cemented,  to  keep  the  Rain-water  from  leaking  in.  By  the  remainder 
of  the  Walls,  built  of  huge  Stones  lozenge-cut  and  pointed  like  a  Dia- 
mond, we  guefs'd  'em  to  be  the  Ruins  of  lbme  antient  Citadel  \  but  we 

Kk  2  could 


252  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

could  find  no  Infcription,  to  let  us  into  the  name  of  the  Town.  They 
iliew'd  us  a  very  fine  Marble  Grave-ftcne,  almoft  half-bury'd  in  the  Earth, 
and  embeliih'd  with  Bafs-Reliefs ;  as  iikewife  a  Bounder-God  of  Marble, 
the  Drapery  whereof  is  admirable. 

PJLEOC ASTRO  is  another  part  of  the  Ifland,  and  tho 'tis  quite 

empty,  yet  is  not  Co  ruinous  as  the  other  ;  but  it  affords  no  Remains  of 

any  thing  grand :  however,  we  obferv'd  fome  very  fine  Plants,  and  elpe- 

Medicago  ni-   dally  one  which  the  Turks  very  much  ufe  the  Trunk  of,  to  make  the 

fo«ana.  ft/fT  Gripe  of  their   Sabres  with.     They  fay  there's  ftill  in  this  Town  10 1 

ReiHerb.        Churches  •  we  law  many  forfaken  Chappels,  but  we  had  not  curiofity 

enough,  or  rather  patience,  to  count  'em. 

OUR  Univerlal  Quadrant  gave  us  occafion  to  make  fbme  Remarks 
with  refpe<5t  to  Geography. 

Serpho  is  South  of  Thermia. 

Serphopoula  South-Eaft. 

Siphanto  between  the  South-Eaft  and  South-South-Eaft. 

Milo  lies  from  the  South  to  the  South-South- Weft. 

ZTA, KEflS.       THUS  much  for  Thermia :  the  Ifland  of  Zia  affords  a  larger  Field 

cea'.        '    for  Difcourfe. 

■  semusin         '  ARISTEVS,  Son  of  Apollo  and  of  Cyrene,  griev'd  for  the  Death  of 

Vn-g.Georg.i.  ^jg  $on  jffeofJy  retired  fwmThebes  at  the  permafion  of  his  Mother,  and 
went  over  to  Ceos,  now  known  by  the  name  of  Zja,  and  then  uninha- 

•  Bibliot.  Hift.  bited.  "  Diodorus  Skulus  iays  he  went  into  that  of  Cos  ;  but  'tis  likely 
this  Name  was  common  to  the  Country  of  Hippocrates,  and  to  the  Ifland 
of  Kjos  or  Ceos  and  Cea  :  for  Stephens  the  Geographer  has  uled  the  word 
Kj>s  f°r  Kfost  unlefs  you'll  have  it  be  an  Error  both  in  him  and  in  Diodo- 
rus.    Be  this  as  it  will,  the  Ifland  of  Ceos  became  ib  populous,  that  a 

Strab.  Rer.  Law  pals'd,  no  left  cruel  than  Angular,  That  all  Perfons  upwards  of  Sixty 
eV  '  •  •  years  of  Age  ihould  be  poifon'd,  that  others  might  have  wherewithal  to 
fubfift.  Mean  while  this  Country  was  cultivated  to  the  utmoft  degree,  as 
is  manifeft  by  the  Walls  that  were  built  to  the  very  Extremity  of  the 
Mountains  to  preferve  their  Lands:  the  truth  is,  they  of  this  Ifland  made 
flight  account  of  Life.    Strabo  reports  likewife,  that  the  Athenians  rais'd 

the 


AY  -T. 


Defcription  of  the  Ifland  of  Zia.  253 

the  Siege  of  Ioulit,  upon  being  infbrm'd  they  had  taken  a  Refblution  to  Lett.VIII. 
kill  all  the  Children  of  a  certain  Age.  *>~/~Y^v-» 

WE  arrived  at  ZJa  the  15  th  of  November  in  very  foul  Weather,  which 
retarded  our  Paflage  not  a  little:  for  they  count  36  miles  from  Thermia 
to  Zj*,  tho  'tis  but  1 2  from  Cape  to  Cape.  This  Ifland  mud  have  been 
beyond  comparifon  much  bi^eer,  if  Pliny  was  rightly  inform'd  of  its  Re-  Hift-  Njt-  !*• 

\  -  •  *"  i-  1  •  •  „  ,      ,      2.  cap.92.  5: 

volutions:  in  antient  times,  according  to  him,  it  was  of  a  piece  with  the  lib. 4.  cap.12. 
Ifland  Eubea,  but  the  Sea  broke  'em  aiiinder,  and  carry'd  away  great  part  Negropont, 
of  the  Lands  looking  towards  Beotia  .-  this  indeed  tallies  exactly  with  the 
Figure  of  ZJa,  for  it  lengthens  from  North  to  South,  and  is  contracted 
from  Eaft  to  Weft  ;  occafion'd  perhaps  by  the  Overflowing  of  the  Black 
Sea,  fpoken  of  by  Diodorus  Siculus. 

OF  the  four  famous  Cities  which  were  in  Ceos,  none  but  Car  the*  re-  ?«j.s*'*.n«'* 

lie. ja.  Strab. 

mains,  on  whole  Ruins  is  built  the  Burrough  of  ZJa :  this  no  body  can  PoeeeiTa,  pim- 
doubt,  that  reads  Strabo  and  Pliny :  the  latter  fays,  that  Pceeeffa  and  Co-  Ko^<t>Strab- 

7  if  11  Coreflus,  Plin. 

reffus  were  fwallow'd  up ;  and  Strabo  writes,  that  the  People  of  Pceeeffa  I&it,  Smb. 
went  over  to  Carthea,  and  thole  of  Coreflus  to  hulls.     Now  the  Situation  Ptolemyf.fi*" 

'  ■"  mention  like- 

of  Ioulis  is  lb  well  known,  that  it  admits  of  no  doubt :  therefore  all  that's  u'>fi  »f  th* 
left  is  Carthea,  ftill  full  of  innumerable  pieces  of  broken  Marble,  lying  yund.  ° 
abroad  or  ufed  in  the  Houfes.  K»f  **«*<  «•  •» 

THIS  Burrough,  or  the  old Cartbea,  is  on  a  Height  three  miles  from  k*?»w&,  fc- 
the  Port,  at  the  further   end  of  a  difagreeable  Valley  :  'tis   a  kind  of  Geog/i.b3*^ 
Theatre  of  2500  Houfes,  built  in  Stories  and  terrafs'd  ;  that  is  to  fay,cap" I5' 
their  tops  are  quite  flat,  as  they  are  all  over  the  Levant,  but  firm  and 
ftrong  as  a  Street-way.     This  is  no  wonder,  in  a  Country  where  there's 
no  Carts  nor  Coaches,  and  where  they  walk  in  nothing  but  Pumps.     To 
the  left  is  an  empty  Citadel,  where  fixty  Turks  made  a  brave  defence 
asainft  an  Army  of  Venetians,  with  only  two  Firelocks^  which  was  all  the 
Arms  they  could  fave  in  the  Shipwreck  they  had  newly  fufTer'd :  they  had 
not  furrender'd,  but  for  want  of  Water.     Among  the  Marble  Monuments, 
the  word  Gymnafurch  is  found  in  two  Inlcriptions,  pretty  hard  to  be  read  : 
we  faw  too  a  Bafs-Relief  with  the  Figure  of  a  Woman  well- draper'd. 

THE  Town  oi  Car  the  a  extended  into  the  Valley  w7hich  comes  to 
the  Sea-  fide :  here  are  many  pieces  of  Antiquity,  efpecially  an  Infcrip- 
tion  of  forty  one  lines,  tranfpoxted  into  St.  Peter's  Chappel;   the  be- 
ginning 


254  -^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

ginning  is  wanting,  and  mod  of  the  Letters  fb  expung'd,  we  could  fcarce 
pick  any  thing  out  but  Gymnafiarch. 

TO  fee  foraething  more  worth  while,  we  directed  our  fleps  towards 
I0TM2.    the  South-South -Eaft,  where  are  the  Remains  of  the  old  Town  of  Ioulisy 
now  call'd  Polls,  as  who  fhould.  lay  the  Polls,  or  City.     Thefe  Ruins  take 
up  a  whole  Mountain,  at  whofe  foot  the  Waves  are  always  beating;  but  in 
Straps  time,  they  were  three  miles  off  it.  Carejjus  ferv'd  it  for  a  Port ;  now 
there's  but  two  forry  Creeks,  and  on  the  Cape's  Point  are  the  Ruins  of  an 
antient  Citadel.     Hereabouts  you  difcover  a  Temple,  from  the  Magnifi- 
cence of  its  decay'd  Remains ;  mod  of  the  Columns  have  their  malt 
half  plain  and  half  fluted,  their  diameter  two   foot  within  two  inches, 
their  flutings  three  inches  broad  :  they  led  us  down  to  the  Sea-fide  through, 
a  noble  Stair-cafe  cut  in  the  Marble,  where  they  iliew'd  us  a  Figure  with- 
out either  Arms  or  Head ;  its  Drapery  is  well-contriv'd  and  regular,  the 
Leg  and  Thigh  well-jointed :  'tis  thought  to  be  the  Statue  of  the  Goddefs 
Nemefis,  it  being  in  the  pofture  of  a  Perfon  purfuing  fbme  body.     The 
Remains  of  the  Town  are  on  the  Hill,  and  extend  as  far  as  to  the  Valley 
itfjifefcUfe  h  where  glides  the  Fountain  loulis,  a  beautiful  Spring  from  whence  the  place 
tMhKiAr    ^as  *ts  namc*     I  never  law  fach  huge  Quarters  of  Marble,  as  thofe  which 
Kfnm.  steph.  are  made  ufe  of  in  the  building  thefe  Walls :  fbme  of  'em  are  above  twelve 
foot  long. 

AMONG  thefe  Ruins,  in  a  Field fown  with  Barley,  we  found  a  bro- 
ken Marble  with  the  word  iaAi'te,  the  Accufative  of  iaA/s  ;  the  word 
ZTe^pavos  is  twice  there. 

WE  went  from  this  Town  to  Cartbea^  through  thefineft  Road  perhaps 
that  ever  was  in  all  Greece,  and  which  ftill  continues  for  above  three  miles- 
together,  parallel  with  a  ftrong  Wall  cover'd  with  a  flat  Stone  greyifh  and 
fplitting  like  a  Slate :  with  thefe  they  cover  the  Houfes  and  Chappels  in 
mod  of  the  Iflands. 
Rer.  Geog.  10 V LIS,  according  to  Strabo,  was  the  Country  of  Simonides  the 
hb.  iq.  Lyrick  Poet,    and  of  Bacbylides   his  Coufin.     Erafifiratus   a   renown'd 

Phyfician,  and  Jrifio  the  Peripatetick,  were  alfo  born  here.     The  Ojc- 
Epoch.  <;<;.     ford  Marbles  tell  us,  that  Simonides  Son  of  Leoprepk,  invented  a  fort 
Tj  Mmjuri-    of  artificial  Memory,    which  he   fhew'd  the   Principles  of  at  Athens  ; 
and  that  he  was  defcended  of  another  Simonides,  a  great  Poet  likewiic, 

much 


te/j 


,/W  ■?.-/- 


Defer ipt ion  of  the  Tjland  of  Zia.  255 

much  in  efteem  here,  and  fpoken  of  in  the  Epoch  50  :  one  of  thefe  two  Lett.  VIII. 
Simonides  invented  thole  doleful '  Verfes  which  ufed  to  be  fung  at  Funerals.  ■^Q'T^V-J 
AFTER  the  Defeat  of  Cajfias  and  Brutus.*  Mark  Anthony  gave  the  ^aeniaB-  ,*j* 

,  J    D  Horat.   lib.  2, 

Athenians  Cea,  Egina,  Twos,  and  fbme  other  adjoining  Iflands  :  it  is  be- o^.  i. 
yond  all  doubt,  that  Cea  was  fubje&cd  to  the  Roman  Emperors,  aira:*  APP,aB«L5« 
afterwards  fell   under  the  dominion  of  the  Greeks.     1  know  not  what 
Year  it  was  annex'd  to  the  Dutchy  of  Naxos,  but  Pierre  Jnftiniani  and  Du  Can3e 

*  J   J  Hift.  of  Con- 

Dominique  Michael  leiz'd  it  in  the  Reign  of  Henry  IJ.  Latin  Emperor  of  flam.  lib.  2. 
Constantinople.     Father  Sauger  obferves,  that  during  the  Wars  of  the  Ve-  Hiftory  of  the 
netians  and  Genoefe,  Nicholas  Carcerio,  the  ninth  Duke  of  the  Archipelago,  ^ "J^  f  ° 
declaring  for  the  former,  Zja,  which  belong'd  to  him,  was  befieged  by 
Philip  Doria  Governour  of  Scio  :  the  Garilbn,  not  confiding  of  more  than 
a  hundred  Men,  furrender'd  at  difcretion  in  the  Citadel   of  the  Town. 
\1. du  Cange,  who  places  this  Expedition  in  the  Year  1553,  was  °*  °pi~ lDki-  "lj-  ' 
lion  that  ZJa  belong'd  to  the  Genoefe  ■  but  we  had  better  ftick  to  Father 
laager,  who  exainin'd  into  the  Archives  of  Naxos,  on  the  very  foot  it  ibid. 
elf.     ZJa  was  afterwards  yielded  up  to  the  Dukes  of  the  Archipelago,  who 
tcpt  it  till  the  Declenfion  of  their  State.     James  Crifpo,  the  laft  Duke, 
•ave  it  in  Dower  to  his  Sifter  Thadea,  Wife  of  John  Francis  de  Sommerive,  Stitntoarfpaj 
he  eighth  and  laft  Lord  of  Andros,  drfpoiTels'd  by  Barbarojfa  under  So- 
yman  II. 
THE  Ifle  of  ZJa  is  at  prefent  well  manured,  and  very  fertile  :  they  Et  cult01'  nCi 

r   moiiim  cui 

>reed  good  Cattel,  but  gather  little  Wheat  •  they  abound  in  Barley  and  pfngnia  Cex 
Wiie  :  they  have  more  Silk  than  at  Thermia,  and  much  of  Velani;  fo  they  veiwnS^ 
all  the  Fruit  of  one  of  the  faireft  Species  of  5  Oak  id  the  world  :  the  meta  iuY.e,aci- 

--,    *  ,  ..  Georg.  I  ft-,  I. 

Loot,  Trunk,  Height  of  it,  is  the  lame  with  the   ordinary  Oak;    it&verf.tA. 
ranches  very  full  and  thick,  wide-fpreading,  crooked,  whitifh  within, '  Q.uer™s  ca- 

I  7  1  T-L  T  ,VCe  ecl,in;"0, 

over'd  with  a  Bark  greyifh,  and  in  many  places  brown.  The  Leaves  giande  majors 
row  thereon  in  clufters,  and  are  three  inches  long,  two  broad,  round  at 
leir  Bafe,  deeply  indented  on  the  edges,  each  Tooth  whereof  (if  we 
lay  fo  call  'em)  terminates  in  a  flabby  reddvih  point :  thefe  Leaves  are 
lick,  hard,  pale  green,  fomewhat  glittering  in  the  upper  part,  cover'd 
ith  an  almoft  imperceptible  Down,  wjiite  beneath,  and  as  it  were  cot- 
my,-  fupported  by  a  Tail  about  ten  lines  long.  The  Acorns  are  very 
iffbrent  from  thofe  of  the  ordinary  Oak ;  each  of  'em  begins  by  a  Button 

aluioft 


2$6 


A  Voyage  into  ^Levant. 


almofl  fphcrical,  and  increafes  to  about  an  inch  or  fifteen  lines  diameter, 
flat  before,  and  hollow  like  a  Navel,  open  enough  to  fliew  the  Point  of 
the  Fruit  within  its  Wrapper  ;  whereas  our  Acorns  have  only  a  flight  fort 
of  Cap,  that  covers  no  more  than  a  third  part  of  'em.  The  Wrapper  of 
the  Acorn  we  are  fpeaking  of,  is  a  fort  of  Box  let  off  with  feveral  Scales 
pale  green,  three  or  four  lines  long,  pretty  firm,  a  line  and  a  half  broad, 
'h  BAArtrof,  blunt-pointed :  when  we  were  there,  the  Fruit  was  not  ripe ;  the  Greeks 
call  them  Vehni,  and  the  Tree  VeUnida. 

HERE  is  likewife  a  fine  fort  of  Phlomos  or  High-Taper,  white,  its 
Leaves  wavy  and  cottony,  very  different  from  that  of  Provence  and  La?i~ 


an  Acorn. 


guedoc. 

o 


VE  RBASCVM  Grscum^  fruticofum,  folio  fwuato  candidiffimo.     Co 
rol.  Inft.  Rci  Herb.  8. 

ITS  Root  is  woody,  a  foot  long,  bigger  than  one's  Thumb,  chapt, 

bitterifh,  hairy-fibred :  its  Stalk  too  is  thicker  than  one's  Thumb,  hard, 

white  within,  cover'd  with  a  greyifhCoat,  a  foot  and  a  half  lone,  with 

Leaves  clufter'd,  feven  or  eight  inches  long,  white,  cottony,  three  or  four 

inches  broad,  but  more  undulated  and  prettier  crifp'd  than  thofe  of  our 

Vevbafcum  lu-  white  High-Taper,  (or  Bouillon.)     The  Leaves  of  the  middle  of  the 

p^erfs  cor-  Clutters  are  thicker,  yellowiih  white :  other  Stalks  rife  from  the  Center 

p.™lati'  C'  B'  of  tnefe  Clufters  to  about  two  foot  high,  garnifh'd  with  fome  Leaves,;* 

fhorter,  thicker,  whiter.     From  their  Bafes  grow  along  the  Stalks,  anc 

as  it  were  in  Balls,  yellow  Flowers,  an  inch  broad,  flafh'd  into  five  parts 

round,  the  two  upper  fomewhat  lefs  than  the  other.     All  thefe  Flowers 

have  holes  at  the  bottom,  and  from  thence  arife  five  purple  Stamina  oi 

Threds,  cover'd  with  a  thick  white  Down ;  hooked,  top'd  with  Summi 

ties  of  an  Orange-colour.     The  Cup  is  a  Cod  five  lines  long,  cottony. 

divided  into  five  points,  from  the  bottom  whereof  rifes  a  Piftile  termi 

nating  in  a  reddifh  Thred :  this  Piftile  turns  to  a  red  Cod,  four  lines  long 

two  broad,  hard,  pointed,  divided  into  two  Cells,  and  opening  in  t\v( 

parts  fiil'd  with  fraall  blackifh  Seeds.     This  Plant  has  not  degenerated  ii 

the  King's  Garden. 

THE  belt  trading  Commodity  of  the  Ifland  is  of  the  fcre-defcribe< 
VeUniy  of  which  in  the  Year  1700,  they  gather'd  above  5000  Hundrci 
Weight.     The  iinall  VeUni  are  the  young  Fruit  gather'd  off  the  Tree 

\  an* 


/;•/.  /. 


3,a$.Z$<f 


/Pr/uisf/////  araseusrv iyrulic0tfu/ri  ,/b{io  /isuisi-fio  m/i 
d/WiS  si'/n*?-  faro//. Irut-. list  Aerv.S. 


- 


A>/  --1 


j>.7/7.2.*r  ■ 


Defcription  of  the  IJlcrnd  of  Zia.  257 

and  much  more  valuM  than  thofe  full  ripe  that  fall  of  themfelves :  both  Lett.  Vlir. 
are  ufed  by  the  Dyers  and  Tanners.     The  young  fort  generally  fetch  a  v-/^v/^-» 
Crown  the  Hundred,  whereas  the  other  is  not  worth  above  half  as  much : 
but  moll:  commonly  they're  mix'd.     We  left  in  the  Port  of  ZJa  a  Vene- 
tian Ship  that  was  lading  with  thefe  VeUni. 

THIS  Port,  whofe  Entrance  is  between  the  Weft-North-Weft  an4 
the  North-Weft,  admits  the  largeft  VefTels  :  the  beft  Anchoring  is  on  the 
right,  and  the  Spring  of  frefh  Water  is  not  far  ofF  (8).  On  the  left  is 
a  Road  for  Ships  call'd  the  Cow's -Buttock,  fit  for  none  but  finall  VefTels. 
The  Chappels  where  Travellers  ufually  lie,  are  number'd  (i)  (2)  ($)  (4). 

THIS  Ifland  produces  a  Lead  like  that  of  Siphanto,  and  chiefly  be- 
yond the  Monaftery  of  St.  Morina  :  thereabouts  alfo  is  a  Chalk  like  that 
of  Briancon.  ZJa  is  deftitute  of  Oil  and  Wood  :  there's  ftore  of  Wild- 
Fowl,  particularly  abundance  of  Partridges  and  Pidgeons ;  but  the  Inha- 
bitants have  feldom  either  Powder  or  Ball  to  kill  'em.  The  Venetian 
Army,  which  was  at  Napoli  di  Romania,  had  fb  famifh'd  this  Ifland  when 
we  pafs'd  that  way,  that  a  Pullet  fold  for  Fifteen  Pence. 

I N  all  ZJa  there  are  not  above  five  or  fix  Families  of  the  Latin  Commu- 
nion ;  their  Church  is  poor,  ferv'd  by  a  Vicar,  to  whom  the  Bifhop  of 
Tinos  allows  but  fifteen  Crowns  a  year,  and  this  he  muft  go  for  as  far  as 
Tinos ;  for  there's  no  fuch  thing  as  Bills  of  Exchange  here. 

THE  Greek  Biihop  is  very  rich,  and  the  Ifland  is  full  of  Papas  and 
Chappels  :  there  are  five  Monafteries  of  this  Communion,  St.  Pantaleon, 
St.  Anne,  la  Madona  d'Eprfcopi,  Dapbni,  and  St.  Marina,  where  they  lliew, 
as  a  Wonder  of  the  Country,  an  antient  fquare  Tower  of  ordinary 
Stone,  cut  oblique  on  the  fides,  facet-wife  ;  I  thought  it  no  Curiofity  at 
all.  Below  St.  Marina,  towards  the  Sea,  runs  a  finall  Brook :  it  may  have 
been  the  Elixm,  which  ran  on  to  Carejfus.  EssgdEAjgg 

THE  Burghers  of  ZJa  generally  get  together  in  knots  when  they  fpin  Xi^KmUv. 
their  Silk ;  they  fit  upon  the  very  edge  of  their  Terrafs-Roofs,  and  let  Strab*  lib- IO- 
fall  the  Spindle  into  the  ftreet,  and  then  draw  it  up  again  in  winding  the 
Thred.  We  found  the  Greek  Bifhop  in  this  pofture ;  he  ask'd  who  we 
were,  at  the  fame  time  giving  us  to  understand  that  'twas  a  fign  we  had 
not  much  to  do,  if  we  came  thither  only  to  hunt  for  Plants  and  Pieces 
of  Antiquity  :  to  which  we  reply'd,  we  mould  be  much  more  edify?d 
Vol.  I.  LI  to 


258 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant 


4 


to  find  him  reading  St.  Chryfoftom's  or  St.  BafiPs  Works,  than  winding  off 
Bottoms  of  Silk. 

THE  mart  Clokes  of  Goats-hair  wrought  ia  this  Ifland,  are  very 
commodious,  and  keep  out  the  Rain  a  long  while  ;  at  firft-  'tis  a  fleafy 
fort  of  Stuff",  but  thickens  and  contracts  by  being  well  prefs'd  on  the  Sea- 
Sand,  which  for  that  purpofe  they  wet  again  and  again  :  after  'tis  tho- 
row  ly  foak'd  and  made  lupple,  they  lay  it  in  the  Sun  on  Tenters  with, 
ftone  Weights  on  it,  left  it  iliould  fhrink  too  foon,' 

PL1NT  and  his  Compiler  Solinus  write,   that  Silk-S  tuffs  were   in- 
vented here ;  but  it  might  be  eafily  made  appear,  it  was  in  the  Ifland  of 
5n  cw  infuU  Cos,  the  Country  of  the  renown'd  Hippocrates.     The  lame  Pliny  obferv'd, 
fe*nfunt.m'    that  in  Zja  they  ufed  to  drefs  the  Fig-Trees  with  much  care;  they  ftiU     k 
primo  few  fe-  coatmue  to  ^0  fa.     To  underftand  aright  this  Manufacture  or  Husbandry 

quens  CVOC.1-  cr  J 

mv,  fequenti    0f  Figs  (call'd  in  Latin,  Capnjjcatio)  we  are  to  oblerve,  that  in  moft  of 
t\ id  caprffican-  the  Iflands  of  the  Archipelago  they  have  two  forts  of  Fig-Trees  to  ma. 
m^'it  nage :  the  firft  is  call'd  Ornos,  from  the  old  Greek  Erinos,  a  Wild  Fig-Tree,  I 
caP-  2~t-         Caprifcus  in  Latin ;  the  fecond  is  the  Domeftick  or  Garden  Fig-Tree :  the  iii 
done'1  vidl""   Wild  f°rt  bears  tnree  kinds  of  Fruit,  Fornites,  Cratitiresr  Orni,  of  abfo-     Hi 
Theopimft.     |utc  neccffity  towards  ripening  thole  of  the  Garden-Fig.  & 

lib.  2.  de  Cau-  J  t      J 

fis'piaiu.  c.i:.      THE  Fornites  appear  in  August,  and  hold  to  November  without  ripen-     i 
dprificus  vo-  nig  •  jn  thefe  breed  fmall  Worms,  which  turn  to.  certain  Gnats  no  where 
"i'geneie  Ficus  to  be  feen  but  about  thefe  Trees :  in  October  and  November  thefe  Gnats 
tuS?,  fed"  of  themfclves  make  a  pun&ure  into  the  fecond  Fruit,  which  is  call'd  Crati- 
quodipfo  non  t;m   and  which  don't  fhew  themfelves  till  towards  the  end  of  September; 

habet  alus  tn-  '.  t. 

buens.  plin.    and  the  Fornites  gradually  fall  away  after  the  Gnats  are  gone  :  the  Crati~ 
™.  wj.V.'"  tires,  on  the  contrary,  remain  on  the  Tree  till  May,  and  in-clofe  the  Eggs 
depofited  by  the  Gnats  of  the  Fornites  when  they  prick'd  'em.     In  May 
the  third  fort  of  Fruit  begins  to  put  forth  from  the  fame  Wild  Fig-Trees     ] 
«  which  produced  the  two  other ;  this  is  much  bigger,  and  is  call'd  Orni : 

when  it  is  grown  to  a  certain  fize,  and  its  Bud  begins  to  open,  it  is  prick'd 
in  that  part  by  the  Gnats  of  the  CraJitires,  which  are  ftrong  enough  to  go 
from  one  Fruit  to  the  other  to  difcharge  then  Eggs. 

IT  fbmetimes  happens  that  the  Gnats  of  the  Cm  it  ires  are  flow  to 
come  forth  in  certain  parts,  while  the  Orni  in  thofe  very  parts  are  dik 
pos'd  to  receive  them  :  in  which  cafe  the  Husbandman  is  obliged  co  look 

for 


j 


Defer ipt ion  of  the  Ijland  of  Tail.  259 

for  the  Cratitires  in  another  part,  and  fix 'em  at  the  end  of  the  Branches  Lett.Vin. 

of  thofe  Fig-Trees  whofe  Orni  are  in  fit  difpofition,  in  order  to  be  prick'd  ^^V^* 

by  the  Gnats  :  if  they  mifs  the  opportunity,  the  Orni  fall,  and  the  Gnats 

of  the  Cratitires  fly  away.     None  but  thofe  that  are  well  acquainted  with 

this  fort  of  Culture,  know  the  critical  Minutes  of  doing  this ;  and  in 

order  to  it,  their  Eye  is  perpetually  nVd  on  the  Bud;  of  the  Fig  •,  for 

that  part  not  only  indicates  the  time  that  the  Prickers  are  to  ilTue  forth, 

but  alfb  when  the  Fig  is  to  be  fuccefsfully  prick'd.     If  the  Bud  be  too 

hard  and  too  compact,  the  Gnat  can't  lay  its  Eggs,  and  the  Fig  drops 

when  this  Bud  is  too  open. 

THESE  three  forts  of  Fruit  are  not  good  to  eat ;  their  Office  is  to 
help   ripen   the  Fruit  of  the  Garden  Fig-Trees,  in  manner  following. 
During  the  Months  of  Jane  and  July,  the  Peafants  take  the  Orni  at  a  time 
that  their  Gnats  are  ready  to  break  out,  and  carry  them  to  the  Garden 
Fig-Trcc :  if  they  don't  nick  the  moment,  the  Orni  fall, ,  and  the  Fruit  of 
the  Domeftick  or  Garden-Fig  not  ripening,  will  in  a  very  little  time  fall 
in  like  manner.     The  Peafants  are  fo  well  acquainted  with  thefe  precious 
Moments,  that  every  morning,    in  making   their  Inipe&ion,  they  only 
transfer  to  their  Garden  Fig-Trees  fuch  Orni  as  are  well-condition'd, 
otherwiTe  they'd  lofe  their  Crop :  'tis  true,  they  have  one  Remedy,  tho 
an  indifferent  one ;  which  is,  to  ftrew  over  the  Garden  Fig-Trees  the 
Afcolimbros,  a  very  common  Plant  there,  and  in  whole  Fruit   there  are  ^°'^ie. 
certain  Gnats  proper  for  pricking:  perhaps  they  are  the  Gnats  of  themof  c.B.pin. 
Orni,  which  are  ufed  to  hover   about  and  plunder  the  Flowers  of  this  haw^/y£esi. 
Plant.     To  wind  up  all  in  a  word,  the  Peafants  fo  well  order  the  Orni, 
that  their  Gnats  caufe  the  Fruit  of  the  Garden  Fig-Tree  to  ripen  in  the 
compals  of  forty  days. 

THESE  Figs  are  very  good,  green:  when  they  would  dry  them, 
they  lay  'em  in  the  Sun  for  fbme  time,  then  put  'cm  in  an  Oven  to  keep 
'em  the  reft  of  the  Year  ;  Barley-Bread  and  dry'd  Figs  are  the  principal 
Subfiftence  of  the  Boors  and  Monks  of  the  Archipelago.  But  thefe  Figs 
are  very  far  from  being  fo  good  as  thofe  dry'd  in  Provence,  Italy,  and 
Spain  ;  the  Heat  of  the  Oven  deftroys  all  their  Delicacy  and  good  Tafte  : 
but  then,  on  the  other  hand,  this  Heat  kills  the  Eggs  which  the  Prickers 

LI  2  of 


2<fo  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

of  the  Orni  difcharg'd  therein  ;   which  Eggs  would  infallibly  produce 
finall  Worms  that  would  prejudice  thefe  Fruits. 

WHAT  an  Expenee  of  Thne  and  Pains  is  here  for  a  Fig,  and  that  but 
an  indifferent  one  at  laft  !  I  could  not  fufficienriy  admire  at  the  Patience 
of  the  Greeks,  bufy'd  above  two  months  in  carrying  thefe  Prickers  from  one 
Tree  to  another  ;  I  was  fbon  told  the  reafon  :  one  of  their  Trees  ufually 
bears  between  two  and  three  hundred  Pound  of  Figs,  and  ours  but 
twenty  five. 

THE  Prickers  contribute  perhaps  to  the  Maturity  orthe  Fruit  of  the 
Garden-Fig,  by  caufing  to  extravafate  the  nutritious  Juice  whofe  Veffels 
they  tear  afunder  in  depofiting  their  Eggs :  perhaps  too,  befides  their 
Eggs,  they  leave  behind 'em  fome  fort  of  Liquor,  proper  to  ferment  gently 
with  the  Milk  of  the  Fig,  and  to  make  the  Flefh  of  'em  tender.  Our 
Figs  in  Provence,  and  even  at  Paris,  ripen  much  iboner  for  having  their 
Buds  prick'd  with  a  Straw  dipt  in  Olive-Oil :  Plumbs  and  Pears  prick'd 
by  fome  Infect  do  likewife  ripen  much  the  falter  for  it,  and  the  Flefh 
round  fuch  Puncture  is  better-tafled  than  the  reft.  It  is  not  to  be  diiputed 
but  that  a  confiderable  Change  happens  to  the  Contexture  of  Fruits  fb 
prick'd,  juft  the  fame  as  to  the  Parts  of  Animals  pierced  with  any  fbarp 
Inftrument. 

'TIS  fcarce  poffible  well  to  underftand  the  antient  Authors  who 
have  treated  of  Caprifkation  (or  husbanding  and  dreiTIn  g  of  Wild  Fig- 
Trees)  if  one  is  not  well  appriz'd  of  the  Circumftances  ;  the  Particulars 
whereof  were  conflrm'd  to  us  not  only  at  ZJa,  Twos,  Mycone,  and  Scio  ; 
but  in  molt  of  the  other  Iflands.  Before  we  left  ZJa,  we  afcended  to 
the  Tower  of  the  Monaftery  of  St.  Pantaleon,  where  we  made  the  fol- 
lowing Geographical  Station. 

Macronifi  and  Cape  Colvnne  Weft-North-Weft. 

Gaidaronifi  and  Porto-Leone  of  Athens  Wefl. 

St.  George  of  Mora  and  Hydra  Weft-South- Weft. 

Engia  or  Egina  between  Weft  and  Weft-South-Weft.. 

Thermit    between  the  South  and  South-South-Eaft. 

Serf  ho  and  Siphanto  South. 

Milo  between  the  South  and  South-South-Weft* 

Sjra  Eaft-South-Eafh 

Andres 


Defcription  of  the  Ifland  of  Macronifi.  26t 

Andros  North-Eaft.  Lett.  VII L 

Carifio  North-North-Eaft.  ^-v^j 

Jour*  Eaft. 

Tinos  between  the  Eaft  and  Eaft-South-Eaft. 
Cape  Skilli  Weft. 
Negropont  North. 
Port  Raphti  North-Weft. 
THEY  count  from  Zja  to  Fort  Colonne  18  miles,  to  Cape  Oro  40 
miles,  and  from  Cape  Oro  to  Cape  Colonne  60  miles. 
•. 

W  E  began  to  be  quite  fick  of  Zja,  where  the  contrary  Winds  detain'd  Macrons. 
U9from  the  5th  of  November  to  the  2jft ;  at  what  time  we  were  invited  st,  Long 
by  the  Serenity  of  the  Weather  to  pafs  over  to  Macronifi,  an  abandon'd lfland* 
but  famed  Ifland,  twelve  miles  from  Zja,  reckoning  from  one  Cape  to  ano- 
ther, and  feparated  from  the  Terra-frma  of  Greece,  or  from  the  Coaft  of  * 
Cape  Colonne,  by  a  Strait  feven  or  eight  miles  over.     Pliny  fays,  that  the  Hift.  Nat. 
Ifland  Helene,  or  the  Macronifi  of  the  modern  Greeks,  is  equally  difrant1,M,cap'12' 
from  Cea  and  Cape  Sunittm  or  Cape  Colonne,  where  are  the  Ruins  of  the 
Temple  of  Minerva  Suniades :  he  fettles  the  diftance  at  5000  paces  :  it  is 
probable  the  Sea,  which  has  wrought  fo  many  Revolutions  in  Zja,  occa- 
fions  the  difference  of  our  Meafures. 

THIS  Ifland  which  is  calTd  MacrU,  according  to  Stephens  the  Geo-  makpis.. 
grapher,  and  which  Pliny  fays  was  feparated  from  the  Ifland  Eubea  by  the 
Impetuoufnefs  of  the  Sea,  was  not  above  three  miles  broad,  and  feven  or 
eight  long;  which  is  not  very  wide  of  the  Dimenfion  Strabo  makes  it  to  60  Stacks-. 
be  of,  and  which  oceafton'd  its  being  call'd  the  Long  Ifland.     This  Geo-  ?-er-  GeoS- 
grapher  writes,  that  it  was  antiently  call*d  Cranae,  rugged,  craggy ;  but 
it  took  the  name  of  Helen  after  Paris  had  brought  thither  that  Grecian  eaenh. 
Beauty,  whom  he  had  newly  run  away  with.     Stephens  the  Geographer  i„  Attic. 

pretends,  with  Paufanias,  that  this  was  not  done  till  after  Troy  was  ta-  in  Attide  He- 

i  ,  .    •   •     1       l    T/i     1  •   •    lene  eft  nota 

ken  •  the  Date  is  of  no  great  concern :  but  certain  it  is,  that  the  Illand  is  in  fuipro  Helens, 

the  very  fame  condition  Strabo  defcribed,  namely,  an  uninhabited  Rock ;  situorfjit.^ 

fb  that  Helen  belike  had  but  an  indifferent  time  of  it  there.     Nor  indeed  caP- 1- 

could  I  be  brought  to  believe  it  ever  was  inhabited,  but  that  Goltzius  ^^'*SiH»b. 

fDeaks  of  two  Medals  relating  to  the  Inhabitants  of  it :  we  pafs'd  over  its ibid- 

r  ,  *  eaenitkn. 

•V  cras§y 


262  ^Voyage  into  ^Levant.     3 

craggy  Top,  to  get  a  fight  of  the  Terra-firma  of  Greece.    Macronif  has 

only  a  lorry  Creek  looking  Eaft  ;  there's  hardly  Water  enough  to  whet 

one's  Whiffle  in  the  whole  Ifland,  and  none  but  the  Shepherds  of  Zja, 

know  where  that  is. 

*  n  k  11,  sen-      W  E  lay  in  a  Cavern  near  the  Creek ;  but  we  were  heartily  feared  in 

the  Night  :  fome  Sea-Calves,  which  had  taken  up  their  quarters  in  the 

next  Cavern  to  ours,  fet  up  iuch  hideous  Cries,  that  we  thought  'em  fbme 

Fiends  from  the  other  World  ;  our  Mariners  laughing,  put  us  into  heart 

again.     Whether  thefe.  Creatures  make  this  notfe  waking  or  fleeping,  I 

Hift.  Nat.      know  not :  it  is  a  great  diipute  among  the  Commentators  of  Pliny  ■.  Her- 
Jib, 9.  cap.  iS.  ^ 

woUus  Bar  bams  thinks  it  is ,  the  latter,  but  be  is  not  back'd  by  the  old 

A?"T  V  °Ss1  Manufcripts  of  Pliny  ;  befides,  they  oppofe  to  him  a  Text  of  Arijlotle 

Arift.  in  ft.      conformable  to  thele  Manufcripts :  without  entring  into  this  DhTertation, 

capbi2.         it  is  better  abiding  by  what  our  Mariners  told  us  of  the  matter,  •  namely, 

-  That  thele  Calves  were  at  that  time  making  love,  or  catterwawling.     At 

Day-break  they  quitted  their  Cavern,    and  dived  fb  fwift  into  the  Sea, 

there  was  no  catching  'em. 

THE  only  Pleaiure  we  had  in  this  Ifland  was  Simpling,  and  in  this 

particular  it  is  the  lrioft  agreeable  of  the  whole  Archipelago :  the  Plants 

here  are  larger,  frefher,  and  fairer  than  elfewhere ;  we  met  with  feveral 

we  had  not  let  eye  on  fince  we  left  France. 
helianthe-      THAT  which  Glvfiw  calls  Ciftus  with  Thyme-Leaves,  anfwers  ex- 
foik/ehbr™1  a^y  to  P^/s  Defcription  of  his  Helenium  ;  he  advances,  that  it  was  to 
ir.ji.  Re,  Herb.  ^  founcj  in  the  Ifland  Helene.  and  that  it  fprung  from  Helen's  Tears :  he 

Otitis   toho  '  1 

Tiiymi.  ciuf.  leems  here,  according  to  his  wonted  Cultom,  to  have  copy'd  part  of  the 
Hdenium,  a  Defcription  Diofcorides  gives  of  Helenium  of  Egypt,  which  was  found  on 
i'enxydk-u"e"  tne  Coaft  near  C-wo/f,  in  an  Ifland  likewife  call'd  Helene,  from  the  fame 
namm,  &  jdeo  pj  jnce{s.  Jf  we  will  believe  the  Author  of  the  Grand  Greek  Dictio- 
fuia  buJatifli-  nary,  who  likewife  relates  the  Fable  of  Helen's  Tears,  this  Plant  grows. 
a"cm  fmL  about  Alexandria  :  probably  thefe  Tears  [fang  very  eafily.  As  for  the 
luimi  fc  ip.ir-    common  ■  Helenium,  4t  does  not  grow  in  Macromfi  •  xhe  'After  with  white 

•_;ens  dodranta-  '  °  ■'     '  J 

fibus  ramuifs  Phlomos-Leaves  may  be  fufpeclcd  to  be  the  firft  fort  of  Helenium  of 
pillo.  plin.  Diofcorides.,  it'  the  Structure  of  its  Root  correfponded  better  with  the 
W^-''2I'C,I°' Defcription  this  Author  makes  of  it.     This  After  is  common  enough  at 

■  Aun*e.  I 

=  After  tomen-  Macromfi. 

tofus,  Verbifti  _  _  .  .  ,  ,„ 

Jb'.io.  ii.  K.  P.  IjLI.Nu 


toLl. 


r 


<■'•'■■' 


■  ■J£\J>  , 


I 

I 


ill 


: 

: 


Defer iption  of  the  IJland  of  Joura.  263 

BEING  apprehenfive  of  two  Inconveniences  in  this  Illand,  namely,  Lett. VIIL 
Banditti  and  Famine,  we  tarry'd  but  24  hours  in  it :  and  happy  was  it  we  w  ^^  >^> 
return'd  to  ZJa,  for  from  the  8th  of  November  to  the  21ft,  the  Weather 
was  fo  very  tempeftuous,  we  had  certainly  perifh'd  in  that  wretched 
place,  not  having  brought  with  us  above  five  or  fix  days  Provifion  :  lb 
we  got  away  as  loon  aspoffible  to  Zja,  from  whence  we  could  not  let 
forward  before  the  2  a  ft  of  November,  and  thence  we  fteer'd  to  Jour  a.. 

THE  Romans  knew  what  they  did,  when  they  banihYd  Offenders  to  jour  a. 
this  Ifland  ;  there  is  not  a  more  diiagreeable  barren  place  in  all  the  Archi-  gy-arus 
felago,  not  fb  much  as  a  Plant  of  any  curio fity  :  we  found  nothing  butGi'ARA\ 
huge  Field-Mice,  perhaps  of  the  Race  of  thofe  that  forced  away  the  In-  brevibqsGyari* 
habitants,  as  ■  Pliny  reports.     Some  ?  Authors,  to  let  forth  the  Wretchednefs  nu^  ^HVJi 
of  the  Country,  made  no  fcruple  to  fay  that  thefe  Creatures  were  forced  Sau 
to  gnaw  the  Iron  juft  as  'twas  drawn  out  of  the  Mines.     This  fhews  lib.  ?.'  cap.3?s 
there  were  Iron  Mines  in  Jour  a,  and  truly  the  Soil  looks  difinal  enough  '  Amfeon.c* 

*\  *  '  °     rift.  Natrat. 

to  confirm  it.  Miwb.  c.2r, 

JOVRA  at  this  day  is  intirely  abandon'd,  and  affords  not  any  Foot-. A,rift: libA- de 

•J  J  J  '  J  Mir.ib.  Aufc. 

fteps  of  Antiquity ;  'tis  'true,  it  was  ever  poor :  s  Strabo  found  in  it  but  .©ian.  Hift. 

one  Village,  and  that  inhabited  by  none  but  beggarly  Pifhermen,  one  of  Aa""Ij" "^ 

whom  was  deputed  to  Auguflus,  to  obtain  a  Diminution  of  their  Tribute  steph.  Byzam.  . 

fet  at  i^oDeniers.     We  recollected  the  Idea  of  this  Miiery  at  fight  of'Rer.  Geog, 

three  ghaflly  Shepherds,  who  had  been  flarving  there  ten.  or  twelve  days ; 

they  look'd  as  if  they  had  been  cut  down  from  a  Gibbet :  they  came  to 

us,  and  without  any  Ceremony  fell  to  rumaging  our  Caick  for  Bisker, 

which  they  fwallow'd,  hard  as  'twas,  without  ever  chewing ;  confeffing 

they  were  forced  to  eat  their  Meat  without  either  Bread  or  Salt,  fince  the 

Badnefs  of  the  Weather  had  prevented  their  Matters,  the  Burghers  of 

Syra,  from  fending  them  their  ufual  Allowance. 

JOVRA  is  but  12  miles  about,  andP//>j  well  knew  the  Compafs  of 
ir:  it  is  12  miles  from  Syr  a,  coafling  it,  and  18  from  Zja  from  one  Cape   * 
to  the  other ;  but  above  25,  to  go  from  thd  Port  of  ZJa  to  the  Creek 
of  Joura,  whole  Entrance  is  between  the  South  and  South-South-  Eaft,  near 
the  ugly  Rock  of  Glaroniji,  or  the  Ip  of  Cormorants, 

m 


264.  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant 

I N  the  Map  of  Greece  done  from  M.  Baudrand,  there's  mention  of  the 
Ifle  of  Joura,  placed  between  Sjra  and  Andros,  and  much  larger  than  the 
firft  of  thofe  Iflands  :  in  all  probability  they  meant  the  Joura  we're  fpeak- 
ing  of;  yet  the  Author  of  that  Map  fets  down  another  Jour  a  near  Delos 
where  'tis  certain  there's  no  fuch  place.     He  put  Tragonifi  and  Stapodia 
juft  by  Nicaria,  tho  Tragonifi  is  that  he  calls  Rocbo,  a  mile  from  Mycone, 
and  Stapodia  fix  miles  farther,  and  above  thirty  miles  off  Nicaria.     'Tis  a 
common  thing  for  Geographers  to  add  to  the  Creation,  and  form  ima- 
ginary Countries,  not  of  God  Almighty's  making.     The  fame  Author 
marks  round  Milo  feparately  the  Ifles  of  Rencomilo  and  Antimilo,  tho  they 
are  only  two  Names  of  the  farce  place,  call'd  Rencomilo  by  the  Greeks,. 
and  Antimilo  by  the  franks.     There's  no  Ifland  of  Caura  between  Zjt 
and  Andros,  unlefs  it  be  perhaps  a  fmall  Rock  juft  by  Port  Gaurio  of  the 
Ifland  of  Andros,  call'd  Gaurionifi.      I  could  not  find  the  Ifle  Camera, 
placed  by   this  Author  between  Nio  and  Nanjio;  he  calls  Sikino  that 
which  he  fhould  have  call'd  Policandro :  the  Ifle  of  Sicandro  not  bein« 
known  in  the  Archipelago,  'tis  likely  it  was  fwallow'd  up  by  the  Sea.     I 
fay  nothing  of  the  Situation  of  the  Iflands  or  their  Towns,  which  for 
the  mod  part  are  topfy-turvy  in  this  Map,  and  much  worfe  in  that  of 
Sophianits.     That  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea  by  M.  Bert  helot,  Profeflbr  of 
Hydrography  at  Marseilles,  is  the  belt  that  has  yet  been  publifli'd,  efpe- 
cially  for  the  Latitudes.     M.  Berthelot  is  an  ingenious  Man,  and  rectifies 
his  Maps  every  day  from  the  Journals  of  Pilots ;  Jiowever,  as  Men  often 
go  from  one  place  to  another  by  different  Winds,  'tis  not  furprizing 
there  fhould  be  fbmething  to  be  chang'd  in  the  Pofition  of  fbme  Iflands, 
efpecially  in  the  Contours  of  the  Coafts  of  the  firm  Land.    The  Ifle  of 
JScio  and  Cape  Carabouron  are  very  well  mark'd  there ;  but  there's  fbme- 
thing wrong  in  the  Ifle  of  Meteline,  and  the  Terra-frma  of  Afia.     The 
Archipelago  of  Mark  Bofchini  is  full  of  faults,  as  well  as  the  Charts  of  that 
Sea  done  in  Italj.     The  Plans  of  Towns  by  Bofchini,  are  no  better  than 
thofe  of  Porcachi.     To  make  a  good  Chart  of  the  Mediterranean,  a  Man 
fhould  follow  the  Defign  of  the  Flambeau  de  la  Mer,  printed  in  Holland  in 
1705.  and  flick  to  the  Chart  of  M.  Berthelot  for  the  Latitudes:  thefe  are 
two  valuable  Performances.    M.  de  Life,  of  the  Academy  Royal  of  Scien- 
ce%  has  newly  publifli'd  an  excellent  Chart  of  the  Archipelago,  from  the 

Memoirs 


I" 


n/.-l. 


^:AL-     - 


■■" 


AXDROS 


4:111 


Defer  iption  of  the  Ijlctnd  of  Andros.  265 

Memoirs  of  feveral  Perfbns  who  have  been  perfbnally  there;  being  an  Lett. VIII. 
able  Cofmographer  and  skilful  Aflronomer,  he  has  corrected  their  Ob-  {^^r^-* 
fervations  with  great  exadlnefs,  and  redrefs'd  many^things  with  refpec"l  to 
antient  Geography. 

THESE  are  the  Reflections  we  made  atjoura  in  the  night-time,  as 
we  lay  in  a  ruinated  Chappel,  where  we  durfl  not  fleep  for  fear  the 
Field-Mice  mould  come  and  gnaw  our  Ears  ;  fo  we  did  not  wait  till  Day 
to  be  going  over  to  Andros. 

AiVDROS,  which  Pliny  fets  down  to  be  ten  miles  off  Caryjto,  and  JSSSSs 
!  thirty  nine  from  ZJa,  had  many  Names  antiently.     '  Paufania-s  fays,  thatf  Andrus. 
jof  Andros  was  given  it  by  Andrew  ;  and  Andrew,  according  to  *  Diodorm  cauro's,  Lafia 
\Siculw,  was  one  of  the  Generals  whom  Rbadamanthus  appointed  in  this  jj^^g*  "y" 
Ifland  :  which  made  a  free  Gift  of  it  felf  to  him,  in  like  manner  as  mofl  g»s-  vUn.mii. 

I.  4.    c.  12. 

|of  the  neighbour  Iflands.  *  Phocfc. 

*CO  NO  N  carries  the  Genealogy  further,  and  tells  us  that  this  fame  '  Bibiiot.  Hift. 

lib.  5. 

indreus  or  Andrus  was  Son  of  Anius,  and  that  Anius  was  Son  of  Apollo  and  ♦  Narrat. 
Ireufa.     The  Ifland  we're  fpeaking  of,  was  named  Antandros,  becaufe,  fays  Am  m%  «V 
ie,  Afcanius  Son  of  Apneas,  who  was  its  Lord,  gave  it  in  ranfbm  to  the  v^'  pr° 

\Pelafgians,  whole  Prifbner  he  was.  Stephens  the  Geographer  fays  nothing 
particular  of  Andros,  only  he  doubts  whether  Andrus  was  Son  of  £«rj- 
Mchus  or  of  Anius  his  Brother. 

THE  Ifle  of  Andros  flretches  from  North  to  South,  and  is  but  eighteen 
liles  from  Joura ;  but  above  thirty  from  one  Port  to  another.  We  ar- 
ived  the  2  2d  of  November  at  the  Port  of  the  Caflle,  the  chief  Town  of 

[iche  Ifland  ;  the  Greeks  call  it  the  lower  Caflle,  to  diftinguifh  it  from  the  Cato-cafeo, 
jper  Caflle,  ten  miles  diflance.  The  old  Marble  Monuments  of  this  0rCoJ!  ' 
ower  Caflle,  fliew  plainly  it  was  built  on  the  Ruins  of  fome  antient  and 
lately  Town;  perhaps  by  the  Lords  of  Andros,  who  chofe  this  place  for 
heir  Refidence,  and  who  built  there  a  Fort  on  the  Point  of  Land  which 
eparates  the  Port  in  two  :  the  Entrance  of  the  Port  is  between  the  North 
nd  Eafl-North-Eafl ;  but  'tis  only  fit  for  fmall  VefTels.  The  Gentry 
hink  themfelves  fecure  from  the  Corfairs  in  this  Caflle  ;  more  than  that, 
c  is  the  mofl  agreeable  and  fertile  part  of  tho  Illand. 


Vol.I.  Mm  4.  GOING 


<i66 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant 


twCJLS),  Ah- 
Qo-M-n-,  Pia- 
tiirn,   loa 

amcena. 


GOING  out  of  this  Burgh,  yon  enter  one  of  the  fineft  Champains 
in  the  World ;  on  the  left  is  the  Plain  of  Livadia,  i.  e.  agreeable  Spot : 
it  is  planted  with  Orange,  Lemon,  Mulberry,  Jujeb,  Pomegranate,  and 
Fig-Trees ;  nothing's  to  be  feen  but  Gardens  and  Rivulets.  The  Cabbage 
Braflica  Gon-  call'd  Chou-rave  is  very  common,  as  in  all  the  other  Iflands ;  'tis  the 
%£.  ei  '  fame  with  that  which  at  Paris  they  call  Qhou  de  Siam,  fince  the  Ambaffa- 
dors  of  Siam  came  to  the  Court  of  France,  tho  this  Plant  was  long  be- 
fore known  in  Europe. 

ON  the  right  hand  of  the  Caftle  of  Andros,  you  enter  the  Valley  of 
'Megnitez,  as  pleafant  as  the  other,  and  water'd  with  thole  pretty  Springs- 
which  come  from  about  the  Madona  of  Cumuloy  a  noted  Chappel  above 
the  Valley  :  thefe  Springs  turn  eight  or  nine  Mills ;  one  of  the  moft  con- 
fiderable  of  them  iflues  from  the  fame  Rock  as  makes  part  of  the  ChappeL 

The  other  Villages  of  the  Ifland  are, 


I 


MeJTty 

CureUij 

Arna, 

Lardity 

Strapurinsy 

Pitrofoy 

AmelochOy 

Gianifiesy 

La  Picbia, 

Megnitez, 

Atinatiy 

Gridiat 

Livadia, 

LamirOy 

Vouniy 

Pifcopio, 

Merta  Chorhy 

Jpfltiy 

CaftanieZ) 

Capraria, 

Aladina, 

Steniezy 

Cochiluy 

Aipatia* 

Falicay 

Vurcortiy 

' 


IB 


1 


THE  Village  of  Arm  is  built  in  feparate  Clufters,  adorn'd  with  Plane- ,  3fi 
Trees  and  ftreaming  Rivulets :  to  go  to  it,  you  crofs  the  higheft  Moun-  ., 
tain  of  the  Ifland.  Both  it  and  Amelocho  are  inhabited  by  none  but  Alba-  ,. 
noisy  (till  drefs'd  in  the  Mode  of  their  Country,  and  continuing  to  live  J£ 
fo  ;  i.e.  without  Faith  or  Law.  The  Turks  engaged  'em  to  come  hither,  •, 
where  are  Icarce  4000  Souls :  the  Lands  look'd  to  be  well  manured; 
Pliny  makes  this  Ifland  to  be  but  93  miles  about  7  the  Inhabitants  fay 
'tis  120. 

THE  principal  Riches  of  Andros  confift  in  Silk  ;    tho  'tis  good  for    - 
nothing  but  to  make  Tapeftry,  no  more  than  that  of  Tbermia,  Caryfio7    : 
and  Volo,  yet  does  it  fetch  a  Crown  and  a  half  per  pound  on  the  fpot;  they 
make  above  10000  pound  per  am.  perhaps  if  it  were  well  prepared,  it 
might  ferve  for  Stuffs,  Ribbands,  and  Sewing- work.     The  Ifland  yields 

X  Wine 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Andros.  26 j 

Wine  and  Oil  enough  for  the  Inhabitants  ;  Barley  is  in  much  greater  plcn-  Lett. VIII. 

ty  than  Wheat,  which  they  are  often  forced  to  fetch  from  Fob.     The  ^-'^V^V-^ 

Mountains  of  Andros  are  cover'd  with  Arbute- Trees  in  many  places ;  the 

Fruit  thereof  they  diftil  to  make  Brandy  :  the  black  Mulberries  yield  alfb 

a  fiery  Spirit,  not  difagreeable,  and  they  feed  the  Silk-worms  with  the 

Leaves  of  this  Mulberry.     The  Pomegranates  are  exquifite,  you  may 

have  a  hundred  for  Three-pence ;  Lemons  are  almoft  as  cheap,  and  lb  Two  parats. 

~-a.   >  r,v,ft„r  '  Malus  Medi- 

ate    Citrons.  c  „    . 

THE  Cadi  refides  in  the  Cattle,  with  the  Gentry  of  the  Country  and  gemi mbaofo. 
the  Adminiftrators :  one  or  two  of  thefe  latter  are  created  every  year.  Ponciie  0'r 
The  Ifle  paid  1 5000  Crowns  to  the  Capitation  and  Land-Tax  in  1 700.        Cedie' 

W  E  went  and  paid  our  Refpeclrs  to  the  Aga  Commandant  of  the  Ifland ; 
he  lives  in  an  old  fquare  Tower,  to  which  you  go  up  by  fourteen  (lone 
fteps,  whereon  is  placed  a  wooden  Ladder  of  the  fame  length,  directly 
aulwering  to  the  Door-fill :  upon  the  lead:  apprehenfion  of  Corlairs  on 
the  Coaft,  the  Ladder  is  drawn  up,  and  the  Fire-locks  prepared  to  give 
'em  a  Reception.  The  Aga's  Tower  is  out  of  town,  we  found  him  much 
indiipos'd  ;  he  took  very  kindly  a  Prefent  we  made  him,  namely,  a 
Chryftal  Bottle  full  of  a  Volatile,  Aromatick,  Oily  Spirit,  proper  to  eafe 
him  in  his  Afthmatick  Fits.  The  whole  Ifland  is  full  of  luch-like  Tower?, 
where  the  molt J  Subftantial  make  their  abode :  they  are  ftrong,  and  have  *  "&?&,  "V 
only  Dormer-Windows  and  Sky-lights,  as  in  Dungeons  of  Prifons.  -S^ayf,  *a- 

THE    Inhabitants  of  this  Ifland  are  all   of  the  Greek  Communion,  ?J7(Pro' J* 
except  Meffieurs  de  U  Grammatics  two  very  rich  Brothers,  and  very  Zea- bilis  Dominus> 
lous  for  the  Latin  Church  :  in  their  Chappel  it  is  that  the  Conlul  of 
France  hears  Mais.     The  Latin  Bifliop  has  but  300  Crowns  a  year  ;  lome  Te«tj7«>.A- 
Icime  ago  a  lad  Accident  befel  him :  as  he  was  palling  over  from  Andros 
ho  Ataxia  the  place  of  his  Birth,  with  his  Robes  and  Church-Plate,  he 
was  taken  by  the  Turks,  ftript,  baflinado'd,  put  in  the  Gallies,  and  was 
fain  to  pay  500  Crowns  for  his  Deliverance  :  he  never  could  difcover  the 
'.ea(l  colour  of  realbn  for  their  ferving  him  lb, 

THE    Greek  Bilhop  has  500  Crowns  a  year,    and  many  comforta- 
ble Additions  in  this  Ifland,  which  is  fo  well  ftock'd  with  Papas  and  Ca- 
oyers :  its  chief  Monafteries  are  Crufo  Pigni,  Panacrado,  and  San  Nicolo 
ioras.     And  yet  fuch  is  the  Ignorance  of  thefe  Religious,  that  the  Burghers 

M  m  2  were 


268  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

were  obliged,  for  the  Education  of  their  Children,  to  recall  the  Capu- 
chins.    Signior  Nicolo  Condofialvo,    a  rich  Merchant  of  Andros  now  at 
Venice,  contributed  a  hundred  Crowns  towards  rebuilding  their  Convent 
and  fettled  fixty  Ducats  a  year  for  ever  towards  its  Maintenance,  befides 
the  Prefent  he  made  'em  of  the  Sacerdotal  Veftments,  and  the  Plate  for 
Divine  Service.     M.  Nicolachi  de  la  Grammatica,  and  fbme  other  Lords 
of  the  Country,  tho  of  the  Greek  Perfiiafion,  have  likewife  been  con- 
fiderable  Benefactors  to  the  Church  of  thefe  good  Fathers  dedicated  to 
St.  Bernardin,  but  not  made  ufe  of  thefe  fifty  Years  pad.     What  M.  Theve- 
not  relates  concerning  the  Proceffion  on  Corpus-Cbrijli-Day  in  Andros,  is 
ftill  pradtis'd  there ;  viz.  that  the  Latin  Bifhop,  who  carries  the  Body  of 
our  Lord,  treads  upon  the  necks  of  the  Chriftians  that  proftrate  them-      \ 
felves  in  the  ftreets,  of  whatever  Communion  they  be.     The  Jefuits  had 
a  good  Hofpital  in  this  Ifland ;  but  they  were  forced  to  quit  it  fome      t 
Years  ago,  through  the  Oppreffions  of  the  Turks. 

THE  27th  of  November  we  went  to  fee  the  Ruins  of  Paleopolis,  two 
miles  from  Arna,  to   the  South-South-Weft,  beyond  Port  Gaurio :  this      i 
Lib.  3.  Town,  which  bore  the  Name  of  the  Ifland,  as  we  are  told  by  Herodotus      It 

De  Simpl.Ms  d.  ~ 

racuL  lib.  9.    and  Galen,  was  very  large,  and  fituated  advantageoufly  on  the  Brow  of     m 
a  Hill  that  commands  the  whole  Coaft  ;  there  are  (till  to  be  feen  the  Re-      rii 
licks  of  a  very  folid  Wall,  efpecially  in  a  certain  remarkable  place,  where     loi 
.Lib.  31.  C.4S.  f^ood  belike  the  Citadel  mention'd  by  Livy.     Here  are   fine  Columns,     p 
Chapiters,  Bafes,  and  fome  Infcriptions,  fbme  of  which  fpeak  of  the  Se- 
nate, People  of  Andros,  and  Priefls  of  Bacchus  ;  which  made  me  fancy     m 
the  faid  Infcription  was  placed  either  on  the  Walls  or  in  the  famous     loi 
Temple  of  that  Deity,  and  confequently  that  it  might  point  out  the  Si- 
tuation of  that  Fabrick.  fro 
ADVANCING  among  thefe  Ruins,  we  lit  on  a  Figure  of  Marble,     4c 
without  Head  and  Arms;  its  Trunk  was  three  foot  ten  inches  high,  and    .Jin 
the  Drapery  very  fine.     On  the  fide  of  a  fmall  Brook  that  fiipply'd  the 
Town  with  Water,  we  oblerv'd  two   more  Trunks  of  Marble  Statues, 
which  difcover'd  the  maflerly  Hand  of  the  Carver :  this  Brook  put  me 
A,Sf'0so<fcW.in  mind  of  the  Spring  caU'd  JUpiterh  Prefent,  but  we  could  not  find  it       [ 
lib?*  c  ic- .  out ;  it  may  be  bury'd  among  thefe  Ruins,  or  perhaps  this  is  the  very 
Brook  that  went  by  that  name.     Be  that  as 'twill,  this  Spring,  according 

to 


Defer iption  of  the  IJland  of  Andros.  2<5p 

to  the  Report  of  Mutianus,  had  the  tafteof  Wine  in  January,  and  could  Lett.VIII. 
not  be  far  off,  fince  Pliny  places  it  near  the  Temple  of  Bacchus,  men-  ^^f^* 
tion'd  in  the  above  Infcription.     The  fame  Author  fays  this  Miracle  lafted  h;i>.  Nat. 
feven  days,  and  that  this  Wine  became  Water,  upon  being  carry' d  out '  "il* 
of  view  of  the  Temple.     Paufanias  makes  no  mention  of  this  Occur- 
rence ;  but  advances,  that  it  was  the  general  Belief  that  every  year  du- 
ring the  Feafts  of  Bacchus,  Wine  flow'd  from  the  Temple  of  that  God  in 
Andros :  the  Priefts,  no  doubt,  took  care  to  keep  up  this  Belief,  by  con- 
veying a  quantity  of  Wine  through  fecret  Canals. 

THE  Port  Gaurio  is  hard  by  thefe  Ruins  to  the  South-Eaft,  and  may 
contain  a  large  Fleet.     Alcibiad.es  put  in  there  with  a  Fleet  of  a  hundred  Dl'°f  sic- 
Ships;  he  took  and  fortify'd  the  Caftle  of  Gaurium,  whence  comes  the  lib.  13. " 
word  Gaurio  or  Gabrio.     The  Andrians  withftood  the  Athenians  with  all 
their  Forces,  join'd  with  the  Succours  they  had  receiv'd  from  Peloponne- 
fus  ;  but  they  were  beaten,  and  conftrain'd  to  fhelter  themfelves  within 
the  Walls  of  their  Town ;  which  Alcibiades  not  being  able  to  take,  went 
and  ravaged  the  Iflands  of  Rhodes  and  Cos,  after  he  had  left  a  ftrong  Gari- 
fon   in  the  Caftle  of  Gaurium,  commanded  by  Thrafybulus.     This  was 
not  the  firft  time  the  Athenians  had  vifited  the  Ifle  of  Andros :  Themifto- 
cles  had  humbled  the  Andrians  fome  years  before ;  for  they  having  been  a 
long  time  under  the  dominion  of  the  Naxiots,  were  the  firft  that  took 
party  with  the  Perfians,  whole  Fleet  had  reduced  almoft  the  whole  Archi- 
pla^e.     The  Greeks  confederating,  refolv'd  to  attack  the  Town  of  An-L^' ^J&  8* 
dros,  and  Themifiocles  not  being  able  to  levy  Contributions  on  it,  laid 
formal  fiege  to  it :  he  being  an  excellent  Soldier,  as  well  as  a  rare  Wit, 
order' d  the  Commandants  of  the  place  to  be  told,  that  the  Athenians  had 
brought  with  them  two  mighty  Deities,  Perfuajion  and  Neceffity  ;    and 
therefore  he  muft  have  fbme  of  their  Mony  by  fair  means  or  by  fouL 
They  made  anfwer,  that  truly  for  their  parts  they  had  no  other  Dei- 
ties but  Poverty  and  Impoffibility.     The  Town,  'tis  like,  was  taken  by 
Storm,  and  the  Ifland  roughly  treated,  fince  Pericles  fbme  time  afterwards  Plutarch.  ia 
fent  thither  a  Colony  of  250  Men ;  whereas  the  Andrians  were  accuftom'd 
to  fend  Colonies  abroad  into  Thrace  on  the  fide  of  AmphiplU,  fubdu'd  by  Diod  sfc 
Brafidas  a  Lacedemonian  Captain.  gbiioth.  Hiifc 

'  PTOLE- 


2yo  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

'  lagus.  *  PTOL  EMT,  the  firft  of  tke  Name,  being  refolv'd  to  free  the  Towns' 

Diod.sic.  ibid,  of  Greece,  travers'd  the  whole  Archipelago  with  a  ftrong  Naval  Force,  and 

ilb,2°'  obliged  the  Garifon  of  Andros,  then  engaged  on  the  fide  of  Antigonus,  to 

furrender  themfelves,  and  quit  the  place  :  whereby  he  reflored  that  Town 

to  its  priftine  Liberty. 

ATTALVS  King  of  Pergamus  laid  fiege  to  Andros  with  a  Rowan 
Lib.  31.C.45.  Army,  which  landed  at  VortGaurio,  call'd  Gauroleon  by  Liij :  the  Town 
made  no  great  refinance,  and  the  Garifon  retiring  into  the  Citadel,  capi- 
tulated three  days  after.  The  Romans  had  all  the  Plunder :  Attains  had 
the  Ifland  for  his  ihare,  which  to  prevent  the  difpeopling  of,  he  perfuaded 
the  Macedonians  that  were  prefent,  and  the  Natives,  to  continue  there. 
The  Romans,  upon  the  death  of  that  Prince,  being  Heirs  to  all  his  Pof- 
feffions,  kept  the  Ifland  till  the  Greek  Emperors  got  it  from  'em. 
1203.  ANDROS  farrender'd  to  Alexis  Comner.es,  in  his  return  from  Italy  to 

implore  the  Succour  of  the  Crufaders  towards  re-inthroning  John  Angela 
Du  CaugeHift.  Comnene s  his  Father,  Who  was  difpoflefs'd,  imprifon'd,  and  depriv'd  of  Sight 
Couft.  b.i.    by  his  Brother  Alexis  Comnenes  Andronicus.     Some  time  after  the  taking 
of  Confiantinople,  Marinas  Dandalo  feiz'd  the  Ifland  of  Andros  ;  it  was 
idem,  b.  2.     afterwards  poiTefs'd  by  the  Houfe  of  Zjno,  and  given  in  Dower  to  Can- 
Hiftory  of  the  tiana  %eno  efpous'd  to  Courfin  de  Sommerive,  as  is  obferv'd  by  Father  Sau- 
Ardnfeiago.    ger,  in  the  Life  of  James  Crifpo  eleventh  Duke  of  Naxia.     Courfin,  the 
third  of  the  Name,  and  feventh  Lord  of  Andros,  was  flript  by  Barbarojfa  ; 
but  at  the  Solicitation  of  the  Ambaflador  of  France,   Solyman  II.  re- 
inflated  him  in  his  Domains.     John  Francis  de  Sommerive  was  the  laft 
Lord  of  this  Ifland ;  and  his  Subjects  of  the  Greek  Communion,  after 
attempting  to  aflaflinate  him,  gave  themfelves  up  to  the  Turk,  that  they 
might  intirely  get  rid  of  the  Yoke  of  the  Latins. 

PORT  Gaurio  is  the  beft  Port  of  the  Ifland,  and  the  Venetians  come 
thither  to  refrefh  when  they're  at  war  with  the  Turks.  Over  agaiufl  it, 
is  a  very  long  Range  of  Rocks  call'd  Gattrionifi  ;  perhaps  the  Ifle  call'd 
Caura  by  Baudrand.  Night  coming  on,  hindred  us  from  fearching  after 
the  Veftigia  of  the  Caftle  of  Gaurium. 
..t  WE  were  forced  to  lie  at  the  Monaftery  of  the  Virgin;  an  ordinary 

piece  of  Building,  tho  the  Monks  are  very  rich.     They  have  laid  afide 
2.  good  Cuflom  the,y  had  in  M.  Thevenofs  time,  that  is  to  fay,  Feafling 

of 


AVJ 


^y  ■*;.-• 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Tinos.  1 7 1 

of  PafTengers :  we  muft  have  faded  whether  we  would  or  no,  but  for  Lett.VIII. 
M.  Gafparachi,  who  lent  us  half  a  Sheep,  with  fome  excellent  Wine  and  ^^^v*^ 
other  Refrelhnients.     Next  day  we  faw  at  Mafs  abundance  of  Albanois 
Women  finely  drefs'd,  much  beyond  the  Greek  Women,  who  don't  drefs 
near  lb  well  as  any  of  thele  Wanders.     The  Women  of  Andros  ftmT  their 
Coats  with  great  Rolls  of  Cloth,  which  makes  'em  look  like  a  Fardingalc. 

THE  Weather  beginning  to  be  cold,  and  the  Sea  rougher  every  day 
than  other,  we  went  over  to  Tinos,  in  order  to  withdraw  to  Mycone,  and 
wait  there  for  better  Weather  :  the  Archipelago  is  very  dangerous  in  Win- 
ter.    Dionyfius  the  Geographer  had  juft  realbn  to  fay  there's  no  Sea  toffes  T"^*1  t5 
its  Waves  higher,  becaufe,  as  he  very  well  obferves,  being  full  of  I  (lands,  phcc^yw  w» 
the  Waves  dalhing  againft  them  with  impetuofity,  muft  create  a  great  "^  ^^~. 
agitation  :  and,  as  Hefychius  fays,  the  Surges  refemble  fo  many  Goats  f^"i 
skipping  and  bounding  the  fields.  rpivatojiu* 

*T  I S  but  a  mile,  as  Pliny  obferves,  from  Jndros  to  Tinos :  we  crofs'd  ^!"vet°.%  i, 
over  the  firft  of  December  in  a  Caick;  for  by  realbn  of  the  fix  Rocks  ^32'133* 
that  are  in  the  middle  of  the  Canal,  large  VeiTels  can't  pafs.     It  is  forty  yuft*  *«&£>- 
miles  from  the  Port  of  the  Caftle  of  Jndros  to  that  of  St.  Nicolo  of  77-  Hefych' 
nos,  where  we  arrived  not  till  Seven  in  the  Evening ;  and  the  Officers  re- 
futing at  that  hour  to  take  the  trouble  to  perufe  our  Certificate  of  Health, 
or  to  fend  to  the  Conful  of  Trance,  we  were  fain  to  lie  in  our  Boat :  they 
were  indeed  io  civil,  as  to  make  us  an  offer  of  the  Lazaretto,  in  company 
of  fome  Slaves  who  were  devour'd  with  Vermin. 

NEXT  day  the  Conlulof  Trance  difpatch'd  a  Viewer  to  the  Fortrels3 
to  his  Excellency  M.  Lewis  Cornaro,  Proveditor  of  the  Wand,  who 
granted  us  what  they  call  the  Pratique,  i.  e.  Licence  to  come  afliore. 

THE  We  of  Tine  was  antiently  call'd  Tencs,  according  to  Stephens  the  tise. 
Geographer,  from  one  Tenos  who  firft  peopled  it.  Herodotus  lays,  frWasTg^os 
part  of  the  Empire  of  the  Cyclades,  which  the  Naxiots  polfefs'd  in  days 
of  yore.  Mention  is  made  of  the  Tenians  among  the  People  of  Greece, 
who  had  furnifh'd  Troops  at  the  Battel  of  Plate  a,  where  Mardoniiis  Ge- 
neral of  the  Perfians  was  worfted ;  and  the  Names  of  all  thele  People 
were  graved  on  the  right  hand  of  a  Bafis  of  Jupiter's  Statue,  looking 
Eaftward.     By  the  Infcription  quoted  by  Paufanias,  the  People  of  this  Eiiac'pnor. 

Wand 


272  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Ifland  fliould  feem  to  be  at  that  time  equal  in  Power  to  thofe  of  Naxos 

Herod,  lib.  3.  if  not  fuperiour.     And  yet  thofe  of  Tenos,  the  Andrians,  and  moft  of  the 

other  Iflanders,  whofe  Interefts  were  interwoven,  being  frighten'd  at  the 

exorbitant  Power  of  the  Orientals,  made  no   hefitation  in  Tiding  with 

them :  Xerxes  made  ufe  of  them,  and  of  the  People  of  the  Ifland  of 

Eubea,  to  recruit  his  Army.     The  maritime  Strength  of  the  Tertians  is 

Thniqn.  noted  in  a  very  old  Medal  (truck  with  the  Head  of  Neptune,  revered  in 

torn??.  °>aS'  an  efpecial  manner  here;  the  Reverie  reprefents  the  Trident  of  that  God, 

accompany'd  with  a  couple  of  Dolphins  :    Goltzim   likewife  fpeaks  of 

Comment.      nvo  Medals  of  Tenos  with   the  fame  Type.     Tri (tanas  too  mentions  a 

riiit.  torn,  2«  *i  \.  j 

fiiver  Medal  of  the  Tenians  with  Neptune's  Head,  and  a  Trident  for  the 
Reverfe. 

THE  Burrough  of  St.  Nicolo,  built  on  the  Ruins  of  the  antient  City 
of  Tenos,  inftead  of  a  Harbour,  has  nothing  but  a  forry  Creek  looking 
to  the  South,  from  whence  you  defcry  the  Illand  of  Syra  to  the  South- 
South-Weft.     Tho  there  are  not  above  150  Houfes  in  the  place,  yet  the 
Name  of  Polls,  which  it  ftill  retains,  and  the  feveral  Medals  and  Monu- 
ments of  Marble  that  are  from  time  to  time  dug  up  there,  permit  us  not 
Rer.  Geog.     to  doubt  its  having  been  the  Capital  of  the  Ifland.     Strabo  fays,  it  was  no 
great  City,  but  that  there  was  a  very  handlbme  Temple  of  Neptune  in  an 
adjoining  Grove :  this  Temple  had  an  Afylum,  the  Privileges  whereof 
Tacit.  Anna!,   were  regulated  by  Tiberius,  as  were  likewife  thofe  of  the  moft  eminent 
6C63'. CJp"  °5  Temples  of  the  Levant.     Philocorus,  cited  by  Clemens  Alexandrinus,  re~' 
Adrrion.  ad      lates,  that  Neptune  was  honour'd  in  Tenos  as  a  great  Phyfician ;  and  the 

Gentes,  , 

fame  is  confirm'd  by  fbme  Medals  :  the  King  has  one,  mention'd  by  Trif. 
Comment.  tanus  and  Pal  in  ;  the  Head  is  of  Alexander  Severas,  on  the  Reverfe  is  a 
Hift.  tom.  2.  Trident  witn  a  Snake  wreathing  about  it,  the  Emblem  of  Phvfick  with 
Ophiufli.  riin.  rhe  Antients :  befides,  this  Ifland  was  call'd  the  Snake-Ifland. 

I T  is  fixty  miles  in  circuit,  and  ftretches  from  North-North-Weft  to 
South-South-Eaft ;  full  of  bald  Mountains,  but  the  beft-mauured  of  any 
in  the  Archipelago.  All  its  Fruit  is  excellent ;  Melons,  Figs,  Grapes :  the 
Vine  thrives  there  to  admiration,  and  has  doubtlefs  fo  done  a  long  time  • 
Numifm.Grxc  for  M.  Vaillant  fpeaks  of  a  Medal  ftruck  with  the  Legend  of  this  Ifland, 
on  the  Reverfe  whereof  is  a  Bacchus,  holding  in  his  Right  Hand  a  Bunch 
of  Grapes,  and  a  Thyrfus  in  his  left ;  the  Head   is  of  Antoninus  Pius. 

The 


;:; 


ipn 


nJ.x. 


Taj.-jyz.  .;■. 


I  1 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  T'mos.  273 

The  Medal  M.  Spon  bought  here  is  more  antient ;  on  one  fide  is  the  Lett.VIII- 
Head  of  Jupiter  Hammon,  and  on  the  other  a  Bunch  of  Grapes.  They  <**~t'iiS*' 
fow  but  little  Wheat  in  this  Ifland,  tho  a  great  deal  of  Barley. 

THE  Fig-Trees  of  Tinos  are  very  low  and  branchy :  the  Olives  come 
up  very  well,  but  there's  not  many  of  'em  ;  they  fetch  their  Wood  and 
Sheep  from  Andros.     The  Country  is  agreeable  and  well  water'd  with 
Springs,  which  occafion'd  the  Antients  to  call  it  Hydruffa,  as  they  did  Steph. 
mod  of  the  Iflands  abounding  with  Springs  :  we  took  notice  before,  that 
it  went  by  the  name  of  Snake-IJland,  and  Hefycbius  of  Miletus  tells  us,  that  Trift-  c?m: 
Neptune  made  ufe  of  Storks  to  clear  the  Ifland  of  'em ;  whether  that  be  two.  2.  ' 
fb  or  not,  'tis  certain  no  Snakes  are  now  to  be  feen  there. 

THE  Riches  of  Tinos  confifts  at  prefent  in  its  Silk;  they  get  16000 
pound  weight  every  year :  when  we  were  there,  it  was  worth  a  Sequin  The  Seiuin  " 
per  pound  ;  fometimes  it  rifes  to  three  Crowns :  our  Countrymen  bought  crowns  and  a 
up  thegreateft  part.     Tho  the  Silk  of  this  place  is  the  belt  prepared  of**''' 
any  in  Greece,  yet  is  it  not  fine  enough  for  Stuffs,  but  very  fit  for  fewing 
and  to  make  Ribbands  :  the  Silk  Stockings  of  this  Ifland  are  very  good ; 
but  nothing  can  compare  in  beauty  with  the  Gloves  which  are  knit  here 
for  the  Ladies.     They  who  ihip  off  Silk  for  Venice,  pay  no  Duties  of 
Export ;  they  give  Security  to  pay  the  Duties,  if  it  mall  be  difcover'd 
that  the  Silk  was  carry'd  to  any  other  place  :  the  reafon  is,  this  Commo- 
dity paying  the  Duties  of  Import  at  Venice,  it  would  in  fuch  cafe  pay 
twice  in  the  Territories  of  that  Republick. 

THE  Fortrefs  of  Tinos  is  on  a  Rock  that  overlooks  the  Country,  and 
is  ftronger  by  Nature  than  Art ;  the  Guard  of  it  is  committed  to  fourteen 
ihabby  Soldiers,  (even  of  them  are  French  Deferters :  we  counted  about 
forty  Brafs  Cannon  here,  and  two  or  three  Iron.  The  beft  People  of  the 
Ifland  dwell  here,  tho  there  are  not  above  500  Houfes,  which  are  much 
incommoded  by  the  North-Wind,  as  cutting  as  at  Paris.  The  Provedi- 
tore's  Palace  is  a  forry  Building  :  it  is  impoflible  for  any  Marble  to  con- 
tinue long  here,  becaufe  of  the  continual  Moifture  occafion'd  by  the 
Fogs,  and  the  Chinks  of  the  Terraces.  The  Jefuirs  are  well  lodg'd  ;  but 
their  Church  is  too  little  to  hold  one  half  of  their  Votaries.  Father  Pr.u 
ti,  Superiour  of  the  Houfe,  gave  us  a  genteel  Reception,  and  we  had  the 
pleafure  to  dine  with  the  Fathers  Forefii,  Qa;nutty  and  Federic.  His  Exccl- 
Vol.  I.  N  n  lency, 


274 


A  Vo  r  A  g  e  into  the  Levant.1 


lency,  whom  we  waited  on  to  pay  our  Refpe&s  to  him,  invited  us  like- 
wife  to  dinner,  and  offer'd  us  Guards  to  attend  us.  M.  Antonio  Betti,  one 
11  Poi-go.  of  the  moft  noted  Lawyers  of  Tinos,  lent  us  his  Houfe  in  the !,  Suburbs 
without  the  Fortrefs,  where  there  are  not  above  150  Houfes  ;  but  then  you 
have  free  Egrefs  and  Regrefs  at  any  hour,  whereas  the  Gates  of  the  For- 
trefs are  ihut  early,  and  open'd  late. 

BESIDES   the  Fortrefs  of  St.  Nicole,    the   chief  Villages   of  this 
Illand  are, 


II  CampOj 

roughs,  viz.  Pyr- 

Comiadot 

Meffl, 

11  Terebadoj 

gos,  Vacalado,  Co- 

Arnado, 

Muofulu] 

Lotra, 

zonari,  Bernarda- 

Pergado, 

Stignij 

Lazaro, 

do  and  Platia ; 

Cazeradot 

Potamia, 

Peraftra, 

Cijlernia, 

Caticado, 

Cacro, 

Cumij 

Cardiani, 

Srnordea, 

Triandaro, 

Carcado, 

Difado, 

Cozonaraf 

DouiCaJlelli, 

Cataclifma, 

Mondado, 

Tripotamo, 

Diocarea, 

Aitofolia, 

Majlro-mercato, 

Cigalado, 

Cica!adaf 

Cbilia, 

Micradoy 

Agapi, 

ScUvo-corhy 

Oxomeria,    con- 

Carea, 

Volacosj 

Croby 

taining  5  Bur- 

Filipado, 

Fa!Iatadof 

Monajterio. 

THE  Proveditore's  Pofl  does  not  bring  him  in  above  2000  Crowns, 
and  therefore  at  Venice  they  look  on  it  as  a  Place  of  Mortification :  hej 
has  the  Tenth  of  all  Wares,  except  Silk,  for  which  he  has  about  three 
Crowns  every  Hundred-weight,   if  it  be  bound  for  any  place  6efideS: 
Venice  ;  otherwife,  nothing  at  all.  f 

THE  Bilhop  ofTinos  has  500  Crowns  a  year  fettled  Income,  and  200 
Crowns  the  Emoluments  of  his  Church ;  his  Clergy  too  are  a  notable 
Body,  and  amount  to  above  1 20  in  number.  The  Greeks  have  full  200  Pa- 
pas, iubjed  to  a  Protopapas ;  but  they  have  never  a  Bifhop  of  their  Commu- 
nion, and  in  many  things  are  dependent  on  the  Latin  Bifhop :  a  Greek 
can't  be  a  Priefl  till  this  Bifhop  has  examin'd  him.  After  the  Candidate 
has  upon  Oath  acknow  ledg'd  the  Pope  and  the  Apoftolick  Roman  Church, 
the  Latin  Bifhop  gives  him  his  DimifTory  Letter  in  cafe  he  be  25  Years 
old ;  then  he  is  confecrated  by  fome  Greek  Bifhop  from  an  adjacent  Ifland, 

to 


u/.x. 


-o 


cm?men,  ofl/u  Isle  of^^^ 


Defcription  of  the  Ifland  of  Tinos.  27$ 

to  whom  he  allows  ten  or  twelve  Crowns  for  his  Voyage.     On  the  Day  of  Lett.  VIII. 
Confecration,  the  new  Prieft  gives  three  pound  of  Silk  to  the  Provedi-  v-^~v~s^> 
tore,  the  like  to  the  Latin  Biihop,  and  a  Crown  and  a  half  to  the  Proto- 
papas  who  had  given  his  Atteftation  as  to  his  Morals. 

IN  all  Proceflions,  and  Ecclefiaflical  Functions,  the  Latin  Clergy 
have  the  precedence  :  whenever  the  Greek  Priefts  enter  the  Latin 
Churches  in  a  Body,  they  uncover  their  Heads  according  to  the  cuf- 
tom  of  the  Latins,  which  they  do  not  in  their  own  Churches.  When 
Mais  is  faid  in  prefence  of  both  Bodies  of  Clergy,  after  the  Latin  Sub- 
deacon  has  fang  the  Epiftle,  the  fecond  Dignitary  of  the  Greek  Clergy 
fings  it  in  Greek  ;  and  when  the  Latin  Deacon  has  fung  the  Gofpel,  the 
firft  Greek  Dignitary,  or  the  Chief  of  the  Priefts,  fings  likewife  the  Gof- 
pel  in  Greek.  In  all  the  Greek  Churches  of  the  Ifland,  there's  one  Altar 
for  the  Latin  Priefts ;  they  have  full  liberty  in  the  Greek  Church  to  preach 
on  any  Controverfial  Subjects  between  them  and  the  Latins. 

IN  the  Latin  Churches,  none  but  fimple  Chaplains  are  amovable  at 
pleafure  of  the  Bifhop.  One  Nuncio  Vafielli,  a  Surgeon  of  Malta,  having 
acquired  an  Eftate  at  Tinos,  and  being  without  Iffue  of  his  own,  adopted 
the  Recolet  Friars,  and  built  them  a  Church  and  Convent  in  the  Coun-  Zoccolamf. 
ay :  thele  Fathers  are  exceedingly  beloved,  but  they  have  not  many 
Houfes  in  the  Levant. 

THE  Wives  of  Citizens  and  Peafants  are  drefs'd  after  the  Venetian 
nanner :  the  other  like  the  Candiot  Women. 

AS  for  what  concerns  the  Hiftory  of  this  Ifland,  your  Lordfhip  knows 
t  is  the  fble  Conqueft  remaining  to  the  Venetians,  of  all  that  they  won 
Imder  the  Latin  Emperors  of  Conjlantinople.     Andrew  Gijci,  from  whom 
S  delcended  the  Sieur  Janachi  Giz,i,  whom  you  have  made  Coniul  of  this 
fland  and  that  of  Mjcone,  fubdu'd  Tinos  about  the  Year  1207.  and  the 
iepublick  has  enjoy'd  it  ever  fince,  in  fpite  of  the  Turks.     It  was  in- 
ked very  near  being  taken  by   that  Barbarojfa,  who    in  1537  reduced 
dmoft  all  the  Archipelago  for  Solyman  II.     Andrea  Morojini  fays  it  furren- 
lei'd  without  flriking  ftroke,  of  which  being  fbon  after  afhamed,  they 
ent  to  the  Proveditore  of  Candia  for  Succours,  with  whofe  help  they 
liove  out  their  new  Matters.     They  don't  tell  the  Story  exactly  in  the 
ame  manner  at  Ttnas :  Barbarojfa,  they  tell  you,  fo  ftraitned  the  Gari- 

N  n  2  ton, 


aj6  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

fon,  that  they  beat  a  parley ;  but  the  Gentry  perceiving  none  but  the 
Inhabitants  of  the  Towns  of  Arnado,  Triandaro,  and  Doui  Cajtelli,  dit 
pos'd  to  capitulate,  fell  upon  the  Turks  fo  vigoroufly,  they  were  forced 
to  raife  the  Siege  :  they  add,  that  the  Soldiers  of  the  Garifon,  in  their 
fury,  blew  up  the  Officer  whom  the  Captain-Baihaw  had  fent  to  regulate 
the  Articles  of  Capitulation. 

EVER  fince,  by  way  of  reproach  to  the  Inhabitants  of  thefe  three 
Villages,  the  firft  of  May  the  Proveditore  accompany'd  with  the  Peafants 
and  Feudatories  of  the  Republick,  follow'd  by  the  Militia  with  the  Stan- 
dard of  St.  Mark,  marches  on  horfeback  to  the  Church  on  the  Mountain 
of  Cetro ;  and  there  after  thrice  crying  aloud,  St.  Mark  for  ever  f  there  is 
great  firing  of  fmall  Arms  :  then  they  go  to  dancing,  and  conclude  with 
a  Banquet.  The  Feudatories  who  fail  to  appear  at  this  Ceremony,  are 
fined  a  Crown  the  firft  time ;  and  Jofe  their  Fiefs  for  ever,  if  they  make 
default  three  times. 
snpfiem. An-  LEVNCLAVIVS  lays,  that  in  1570,  the  Emperor  Selim  fent  to 
nai.  Tore.  demand  of  the  Senate  of  Venice  the  Reftitution  of  the  Ifle  of  Cyprus ; 
and  on  his  refufal,  Pialis  Captain-Baihaw  made  a  Defcent  at  Tinos,  where 
Hid  Venet.  he  put  all  to  fire  and  fword.  Morofini  lays,  that  in  the  fame  Year  the 
Turks  laid  vigorous  fiege  to  the  Fortrefs  of  Tinos  ;.  that  Eva  Mujlapha 
landed  8000  Men  there,  and  that  this  was  done  at  the  requeft  of  the 
Andrians ;  but  it  mifcarry'd,  becaufe  the  Proveditore  Paruta  had  made 
fuch  preparation  to  receive  'em,  that  the  Turks  were  conftrain'd  to  raife 
the  fiege  and  be  gone,  after  having  burnt  the  faireft  Villages  of  the  Ifland. 
Two  years  after,  they  ravaged  it  the  third  time,  under  the  command  of 
Cangi  Alii* 

T  H  O  the  Venetians  have  no  regular  Troops  in  this  Ifland,  yet  in  cafe 
of  an  Alarm  they  can  at  the  firft  fignal  get  together  above  5000  Men : 
each  Village  maintains  a  Company  of  Militia,  furnifh'd  with  Arms  at 
the  Prince's  charge,  and  frequently  mufter'd  and  exercis'd.  In  the  laft 
War  Mezomorto  the  Captain-Bafhaw  wrote  to  the  Proveditore,  the  Gen* 
try,  and  the  Clergy  of  the  Ifland,  that  he  would  deftroy  Man,  Woman, 
and  Child,  unlefs  they  paid  him  the  Capitation-Tax  :  he  was  told,  he 
might  come  and  fetch  it;  and  when  he  appear'd  with  his  Gallies,  the 
Proveditore  Moroy  a  good  Soldier,  march'd  out  of  the  Intrenchments 

of 


Defer iption  of  the  Ifland  of  Tinos.  277 

of  St.  Nicolo  at  the   head  of  a  thoufand  Men,   who  with   their  brisk  Lett.VIIL. 
firing  prevented  the  Bafhaw's  landing,  andfenthis  Gallies  packing.     To  ^-'~v^-' 
make  a  Conqueft  of  Tinos,    there    needs  no   more  than    to  amufe  the 
Troops  at  St.  Nicolo  while  a  Defcent  is  carrying  on  at  Palermo,  the  beft  Palermo  »  de- 
Port  of  the  Ifland  to  the  North :  thefe  Troops,  which  might  ruin  the  ruLjfOfc. 
Country,  and  eafily  get  Subfiftence  from  Andros,  would  foon  flarve  the  £™h}™"'/J  4 
Fortrefs,   the  only  Bulwark  of  the  Ifland  ;   for  St..  Nicolo  is  open  on  fort  °f  sliiP- 
every  fide. 

THE  Badnefs  of  the  Weather  hmder'd  our  Simpling  at  Tinos;  yet 
we  took  notice  of  fbme  fine  Plants,  among  others  that  which  yields  the 
Manna  of  Perjia :  but  we  could  not  go  fee  the  other  Curiofities  of  the 
Ifland,  fuch  as  the  Cavern  of  Eolus,  the  Damfels  Tower,  the  Relicks  of 
Neptune's  Temple,  the  Madona  Cardiani ;  happy  that  we  had  crofs'd  the 
Canal  of  Mycone,  where  we  arriv'd  not  without  danger  of  being  overfet. 
This  confirm'd  us  in  the  Sentiment  of  thofe  who  fancy'd  the  Archipelago 
was  call'd  by  the  Antients  the  JEgean  Sea,  becaufe  the.leaft  Blaft  of  Wind  *Aj£... 
fets  the  Waves  a  dancing  like  fo  many  Goats,  as  has  been  faid  before* 

WE  fhall  clofe  this  Letter  with  the  Geographical  Statioa  we  made 
from  the  top  of  the  Fortreis  of  Tinos. 

Joura  Weft 

Syra  South-Weft. 

Andros  between  the  North- Weft  and  North-North- Weft. 

Faros  South. 

Delos  between  the  South-South-Eaft  and  the  South. 

Scio  between  the  North-Eaft  and  the  NorthrNorth-Eaft 

Cape  Carabouron  North-EafL 

Scala-nova  Eaft-North-Eaft. 

Samos  between  the  Eaft  and  Eaft-North-Eaft, 

Nicaria  Eaft. 

fourni  Eaft-South-Eaft.. 

Mycone  South-Eaft. 

Jmorgo  between  the  South-Eaft  and  South-South-Eaft. 

Naxia  between  the  South-South-Eaft  and  the  South. 

I  am,  &c» 

LET. 


(278) 


LETTER    IX. 

To  Monfeigneur  the  Count  de  Pontchartrain, 

Secretary  of  State,  &c. 

... 

Mlf.LoRD, 

Defection  of  |p||§||i  H  E  Hiftory  of  Scio  is  too  voluminous  to  be  brought  into  the 
tl1JlZt-I  WhHm  compai's  of  a  Letter  :  all  that  I  ihall  therefore  do  at  prefenr. 


scio,'  Metdin,  sgglj  X  §   f  comPais  °$  *  Letter  :  all  that  I  ihall  therefore  do  at  prefent, 
Tenedos,  and  ||JlLJ|§  is  to  entertain  you  with  what  has  occurr'd  there  in  our  days. 

as  likewife  with  a  plain  Defcription  of  the  Ifland. 
ANTONIO  Z^tAO,  Captain-General  of  the  Venetian  Army,  came 
before  the  Xown  of  Scio  on  the  28th  of  April  1694,  with  14000  Men; 
and  began  to  attack  the  Caflle  towards  the  Sea,  the  only  Place  of  Re- 
fiftance  throughout  the  Country  :  it  held  out  but  five  days,  tho  defended 
by  ScoTurks,  and  fupported  by  above  1000 Men  well  arm'd,  that  might 
throw  themfelves  into  it  without  the  lead  oppofition  to  the  Land- fide 
Next  Year,  Tebr.  1  o.  the  Venetians  loft  it  with  the  fame  eafe  they  had  ta- 
'A/  Nmm  'o/-  ken  it,  and  precipitately  abandon'd  it  after  the  Overthrow  of  their  Naval 
libTi'.'         '  Army  in  the  Iflands  of  Spalmadori,  where  the  Captain-Bafhaw  Mezomorto 
Thucyd.  lib.  g.  commancied  the  Turkt[h  Fleet.     Xhe  Xerror  was  fa  great  in  Scio,  they  kft 
behind  'em  their  Ammunition  and  Cannon ;  the  Xroops  ran  away  in  dif- 
order,  and  'tis  at  this  day  a  common  Saying  in  the  Ifland,  Xhat  the  Sol- 
diers took  every  Fly  to  be  a  Xurbant. 

XHE  Turks  enter'd  it  as  a  conquer'd  Country  ;  but  the  Greeks  very 
artfully  threw  all  the  blame  on  the  Latins,  tho  they  had  no  hand  in  the 
Irruption  of  the  Venetians.     Xhey  hang'd  four  of  the  mofl  eminent  Per- 
fons  of  the  Latin  Permafion,  and  who  had  honourably  bore  the  chief  Of- 
fices; 


Defer iption  of  the  Ijland  of  Scio.  279 

fices ;  Pierre  Jujiiniani,  Francefco  Drsgo  Burgbefi,  Domenico  StelLi  Burgbefi,  Letter  IX. 
Giovanni  Cafielli  Burgbeji.  The  Latins  were  forbid  to  wear  Hats ;  they  v-^'V^-^ 
were  alfo  obliged  to  get  iliaved,  quit  the  Genoefe  Habit,  light  from  their 
Horle  at  the  City -Gate,  and  refpectfully  falute  the  meaneft  Muffulman  : 
the  Churches  were  pull'd  down,  or  turn'd  into  Mofques ;  the  Latin  Bi- 
fliop  Leonardo  Babarini,  and  above  fixty  of  the  belt  Families,  follow'd 
the  Venetians  to  the  More  a,  where  died  this  Bilhop  fome  time  after  he  had 
been  prefented  to  a  new  Bilhoprick  :  the  Sufpicion  which  the  Turks  had 
conceiv'd  of  him  and  the  Latins  favouring  this  Expedition,  was  increas'd 
by  the  Marks  of  Efteem  the  Venetians  fhew'd  this  Prelate.  Thefe  poor 
Latins,  who,  at  the  mitigation  of  the  Greeks,  are  every  day  teaz'd  with 
frelh  Dilputes,  take  all  very  patiently,  and  ailifl  very  devoutly  at  Divine 
Service  m  the  Frencb  Vice-Conful's  Chappel,  which  is  a  very  large  one 
and  well  ferv'd. 

THE  publick  Exercife  of  the  Catholick Religion  was  the  moil  valua- 
ble Privilege  the  Sciots  enjoy'd,'  through  the  means  of  the  Kings  of 
France ;  but  it  has  been  taken  away  under  colour  of  Rebellion  :  Divine 
Service  was  perform1  d  there  with  the  lame  Ceremonies  as  in  the  heart  of 
Chrijlendom  it  felf.     The  Priefts  bore  the  holy  Sacrament  to  the  Sick  in 
full  liberty  at  Noon-day  :  the  ProceiTion  of  Corpus-Cbrifii  was  made  with 
the  utmoft  Solemnity  3  the  Clergy  walking  in  their  proper  Habits  under 
Canopies,  and  bearing  Centers  in  their  hands  :  in  fine,  the  Turks  uled  to 
call  this  Ifland  Little  Rome.     Befides  the  Churches  in  the  Country,  the 
Latins  had  feven  in  Town  :  the  Cathedral  is  converted  into  a  Molque, 
as  alfo  the  Church  of  the  Dominicans  ;  the  Church  of  the  Jefuits  dedi- 
cated to  St.  Anthony,  is  turn'd  into  an  Inn ;  thole  of  the  Capuchins  and 
the  Recolets,  our  Lady  of  Loretto  and  that  of  St.  Anne,  are  pull'd  down. 
The  Capuchins  had  alfo  within  500  paces  of  the  Town  the  Church  of 
St.  Koch,  where  they  ufed  to  bury  the  French  ;  but  it  has  ihared  the  fame : 
Fate  with  the  reft.     The  Country-Churches  were  Sa  Jofefb,  two  miles 
diftance  from  the  Town  ;  Our  Lady  of  the  Conception,  two  miles  and  a 
half;  St.  James,  a  quarter  of  a  mile ;  the  Madona,  a  mile  and  a  half;  the: 
Madona  of  Eliflja,  two  miles  and  a  half;  St.  John,  half  a  mile. 

THE  Latin  Fathers  hadlikewife  liberty  to  fay  Mafs  in  ten  or  twelve 
Greek  Churches  ;  and  fome  Gentlemen  had  Chappels  in  their  Country— 

Houfes. 


280  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant 

Houfes.  The  Bifliop  had  an  allowance  of  200  Crowns  from  the  Pope, 
befides  confiderable  Per  qui  fires.  There  are  ftill  at  Scio  24  or  25  Priefts, 
without  reckoning  the  Religious  of  the  French  and  Italian  Nations,  who 
have  loft  their  Convents.  After  Scio  was  taken,  the  Turks  afTefs'd  the 
Priefts  to  the  Capitation-Tax ;  but  M.  de  Riants,  Vice-Conful  of  France 
got  'em  exempted :  the  Nuns  are  not  cloifter'd  here,  any  more  than  in 
the  other  parts  of  the  Levant ;  the  principal  are  of  the  Order  of  St.  Fran- 
cis or  St.  Dominick,  both  under  direction  of  the  Jefuits. 

THE  Gre<?&  Bifhop  is  in  very  good  Circumftances ;  he  has  above  3 00 
Churches  in  Town,  and  the  whole  Ifland  is  full  of  Chappels :  the  Greek 
Monasteries  tnere  enjoy  large  Revenues ;  that  of  St.  Minas  confifts  of  fifty 
Caloyers,  and  that  of  St.  George  of  about  twenty  five  :  the  raoft  confidera- 
>j=tf^tf,N*w  ble  is  Neamoni,  that  is  to  lay,  New  Solitude,  fituated  within  five  miles  of 
the  Town  ;  we  went  thither  the  fifth  of  March  1701.     This  Convent 
pays  5 00 Crowns  to  the  Capitation  :  it  has  150  Caloyers,  who  never  eat 
Together  but  on  Sundays  and  Holy-days ;  the  reft  of  the  Week  they  pro- 
vide for  themfelves  as  well  as  they  can,  the  Houfe  allowing  'em  no- 
thing but  Bread,  Wine,  and  Cheefe :  fuch  of  'em  as  have  wherewithal, 
live  voluptuoufly,  and  keep  their  Horfes.     This  Convent  is  very  large, 
and  looks  more  like  a  Town  than  a  Religious  Houfe ;  it  is  faid  to  pofTefs 
an  eighth  part  of  the  Revenue  of  the  whole  Ifland,  and  has  coming  in 
above  50000  Crowns  a  Year  Penny-Rent.     Over  and  above  the  conti- 
nual Acquifitions  by  way  of  Legacies,  there's  not  a  Caloyer  but  helps  to 
enrich  it;  they  not  only  pay  down  100  Crowns  for  their  Admiflion,  but 
at  their  death  they  muft  give  all  they  are  worth  either  to  the  Convent  or 
fbme  of  their  Kindred,  who  can't  inherit  above  a  Third  of  it ;  nor  that 
unlefs  he  becomes  a  Member  of  the  fame   Religious  Community :  thus 
have  they  found  the  Secret  of  hedging  in  the  whole.     The  Convent  is 
on  a  little  Hill  well  manured,  but  very  lonely,  amidft  huge  Mountains' 
very  difagreeable  to  the  View. 

THO  the  Church  is  dark,  yet  it  is  reckon'd  one  of  the  belt  in  all 
the  Levant ;  it  is  intirely  Gothick,  except  the  Moulds  for  the  Arches : 
the  Paintings  are  fo  horribly  done,  they'd  frighten  ye,  in  fpite  of  the 
Gilding  they  are  loaded  with ;  each  Saint's  Name  is  put  at  the  bottom, 
left  you  Jhould  miftake  him  for  his  Neighbour.     The  Emperor  Conftanttne 

*  Mono- 


Defcrijption  of  the  IJland  of  Scio.  28 r 

Monomchm,  who,   as  the  Monks  told  us,   caused  this  Church  to  be  Letter  IX. 
built,  is  painted  there,  with  his  Name  to  it.     The  Columns  and  Cha- U6?"V",*J 
picers  are  Jafper,  of  the  growth  of  the  Country,  but  clumfily  difpos'd ; 
the  Stone  has  no  manner  of  Luftre  :  there's  enough  of  it  about  this 
Monaftery,  but  that  which  is  employ'd  in  this  Church,  was  dug  out 
of  the  antient  Quarries  of  the  Ifland  hard  by  the  Town.     Strabo  has  A*^' ,    , 
taken  notice  of  thefe  Quarries,  and  Pliny  lays  the  firft  Tafper  was  difco-  <™  ^  a*™- 
ver'd  there  :  when  thefe  Walls  were  raifing,  Cicero  happening  to  be  there,  ^fsf^bi* 
they  fhew'd  him  this  Stone  as  a  Curiofity;  he  told 'em,  it  was  a  beau- ^ber,iGe°s- 
tiful  Stone,  but  it  would  be  much  more  fo,  if  it  came  from  Tivoli  r  there-  Multo,  ;'»$«//, 
by  infmuating,  that  they  would  be  Matters  of  Rome  if  they  had  Tivoli,  ™ SKST' 
or  that  their  Stone  would  be  more  efteem'd  if  it  were  far  fetch'd.     In  aUlaPidefecifl«is< 
likelihood  it  was  here  that  Cicero  was  inform'd  of  a  Satyr's  Head  found  in  chiomm 
in  thefe  Quarries,  naturally  defcribed  on  one  of  thefe  Stones.  aXffo'capui* 

THE  Inhabitants  of  Sao  agree  that  their  Ifland  is  120  miles  about:  «"**■■**■ 

~  -  Ck.  de  Dnm. 

Strabo  makes  it  but  900  Stadia^  that  is,  1 12  miles  and  alhalf ;  Pliny  mounts 
it  to  1 25000  paces.    'All  this  may  be,  true;  for  befides  that  the  difference 
of  thefe  Meafures  is  no  great  matter,  the  mealiiring  the  Circumference  of 
an  Ifland  is  the  leaft  ex  act  Method  for  finding  its  dimenfions,  becaufe  of 
the  Inequality  of  the  Cqafts,  which  moft  commonly  are  only  guefs'd  at, 
The  Ifland  of  Scio  ftretches  from  North  to  South-;  but  it  is  narrower  to- 
wards the  middle,  terminated  to  the  South  by  '  Cabo  Maftico  ox*  Cato/neria,  ■  An.  ii  n0- 
and  to  the  North  by  that  of  >  Jpanomeria.     The  Town  of  Scio  and/e  Cam-  ^j^"'  Suab- 
t>o  are  about  the  middle  Eafterly  on  the  edge  of  the  Sea  :  this  Town  is  *' 'Lower  part 
large,  delightful,  and  the  belt-built  of  any  in  the  Levant ;  the  Houfes  are  fLLf^' 
beautiful  and  commodious,  the  Roof  terminates  in  Timber- Work  cover'd  »/'&  $*»*• 
with  either  flat  or  ridge  Tiles :  the  Terraces  are  well  cemented,  and  'tis 
slain  the  Sciots  have  retain'd  the  Gexoefe  Way  of  Building,  that  Italian 
People  having  embelifh'd  all  the  Towns  of  the  Eaft,  where  they  once 
ettled.     To  conclude,  after  we  had  fpent: a  Twelvemonth  in  the  Ar.cbi- 
->elago,  andfaw  nothing  but  Mud-Houfes,  the  Town  of  Scio  look'd  like  a 
Jewel,  tho  not  very  lightfome,    and  paved  with  Flint-Stones  like  our 
Towns  in  Provence :  the  Venetians  in  the  laft  War  beautify'd  Scio,  by  le- 
velling the  Houfes  about  the  Cattle,  where  is  now  a  fine  Efplanade. 

Vol.I.  Oo  THIS 


282  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

THIS  Caftle  is  an  old  Citadel  built  by  the  Genoefe  on  the  edge  of  the 
Sea,  it  can  batter  the  Town  and  the  Port ;  but  there's  one  part  of  the 
Town  by  which  it  feems  to  be  commanded :  'tis  faid  there  are  1400  Men 
in  Garifon ;  there  ihould  be  2000,  in  proportion  to  its  Circuit.  'Tis  de- 
fended by  round  Towers,  and  an  indifferent  Ditch  :  within  it  there's  no- 
thing but  Gutters  of  Houfes  inhabited  only  by  Mufiulmans,  or  the  Latin 
Gentry,  as  appears  from  the  Coat- Armour  of  the  Jujtiniani,  Sec.  fet  up 
in  many  places.  The  Turks  are  every  day  repairing  the  Damage  done  to 
their  Houfes  by  the  Venetian  Bombs  \  they  have  likewife  built  a  neat 
Mofque. 

THE  Port  of  Scio  is  the  Rendevouz  of  all  Shipping  that  goes  either 
up  or  down ;  that  is,  either  to  Confiantinople,  or  from  thence  into  Syria 
Rer.  Geog.    and  Egypt :  yet  is  it  none  of  the  belt  Harbours,  tho  Strabo  fays  it  can 
hold  a  Fleet  of  fourfcore  Ships.     At  prefent  there's  only  a  fbrry  Mole, 
built  by  the  Genoefe^  form'd  by  a  Jettee  level  with  the  Surface  of  the  Wa- 
ter ;  the  Entrance  is  narrow  and  dangerous  by  reafbn  of  the  Rocks, 
which  are  but .  juft  cover'd  with  Water,  and  could  hardly  Be  avoided, 
were  it  not  for  the  Light-houfe  fet  upon  the  Rock  of  St.  Nicholas-.     We 
left  in  this  Port  feven  Turkijh  Gallies  and  three  Tripoli  Men  of  War :  ge- 
nerally there  remains  here  a  Squadron  of  Gallies. 
'h  #  jiwwis*     A  S  for  the  Country,  Athen&ut  had  good  reafbn  to  call  it  a  mountainous 
^f^stv^i.  rugged  Ifland  ;  and  yet  at  that  time  thefe  Mountains  were  render'd  more 
Athen. Deipn.  agreeable  by  the  Woods,  whereas  they  are  now  very  bare:  yet  infbme: 
places  there  are  abundance  of  Orange,  Citron,  Olive,  Mulberry,  Myr-\ 
tie,   Pomegranate-Trees,   without  reckoning   Maftiek   and  Turpentine/ 
The  Country  does  not  want  for  Corn  ;  but  it  not  yielding  a  fufficient' 
quantity,  they  fetch  it  from  time  to  time  from  the  Terra-firma :  and  for 
this  reafon  the  Chriftian  Princes  could  not  long  keep  this  Ifland,  if  they 
were  at  war  with  the  Turks.     Cantacu&enus  reports,  that  Bajazet  ftarv'd  all 
the  Iflands,  by  prohibiting  Corn  to  be  carry'd  to  'em  :  it  would  be  diffi- 
cult to  maintain  a  Settlement  in  the  Archipelago,  without  being  in  pof 
feffion  of  the  Morea  or  Candia,    to  fupply  Provifions.     The  Town  of 
Gefme,  which  fbme  will  have  to  be  the  antient  Town  of  Erjtbrea,  ufed  to 
furnifh  Scio  with  Corn;  the  Fertility  of  Jfia  is  incredible:  Gefme  is  over 
againfl  Scio,  on  this  fide  Cape  Carabouron. 

AS 


Tbefcription  of  the  //land  of  Scio.  283 

AS  for  Wine,  Scio  has  enough  and  to  fpare;  it  is  pleafant  and  ftoma-  Letter  IX. 
chical,  quantities  are  exported  to  the  neighbouring  Iflands.     Theopompus  Ddpn^Ub^ 
in  Athen&us  fays  it  was  Oenepion  the  Son  of  Bacchus  that  taught  the  Sciots 
the  Culture  of  the  Vine  ;  that  the  firfl  Red  Wine  was  drank  here,  and 
that  the  Inhabitants  fhew'd  their  Neighbours  how  to  make  Wine.     Virgil  £,n"°^j™ 
and  Horace  had  no  averfion  to  the  Wines  of  Scio  :  St  rah,  who  fpeaks  of this  A™'fa 
*em  as  the  bell:  Wines  in  Greece,  extols  particularly  one  part  of  the  Ifland  5.  wrf.  7if* 
oppofite  to  that  of  Pfyra,  or  Pfara  acthey  now-adays  pronounce  it ;  and  H  ,Ae««»*  m 
Pfara  has  nothing  elfe  but  this  Liquor  to  make  it  felf  known  by  in  the  <ywV4"«* 
Levant.    Not  long  ago  the  Troops  of  Mezomcrto  deftroy'd  the  Vineyards  fj^™t*fv' 
of  Antipfara,    which  likewife  was  wont  to  produce  great  quantities  ofGe°g.  lib.  3, 
Wine.     Pliny  often  ipeaks  of  the  Wines  of  Scio,  and  quotes  Varro,  theHift'Nat> 
moft  Learned  of  the  Romans,  to  prove  that  they  ufed  to  prefcribe  it  at lib-  J*  caP-  7* 
Rome  in  Stomachical  Cafes.     Varro  likewife  reports,  that  Hortenfius  left 
above  10000  Pieces  of  it  to  his  Heir.     C<efar  regaled  his  Friends  with  it,  Cxfa.  Epulo 
in  his  Triumphs  and  Sacrifices  to  Jupiter  and  the  other  Deities  :  but  At  he-  ^  n  ™"b  u 
tjxus  defcends  more  circumftantially  into  the  Nature  and  Qualities  of  the 
Wines  of  Scio;   they  help,  he  fays,    Digeftion,   they  fatten,   they  are 
wholefome,  and  exceed  all  other  Wines  in  Delicioufhefs  of  Tafte,  efpe- 
cially  thofe  about  Ariufa. 

AT  Scio  they  plant  their  Vines  on  the  Hills,  and  cut  the  Grapes  in 
I  August,  and  let  'em  lie  in  the  Sun  to  dry  for  feven  or  eight  days,  after 
\  which  they  prefs  'em,  and  then  let  'em  (land  in  Tubs  to  work,  the  Cellar 
i  being  all  the  while  clofe  ihut.     When  they  would  make  the  bell  Wine, 
I  they  mix  among  the  black  Grapes  a  fort  of  white  one,  which  finells  like 
!  a  Peach-Kernel ;  but  in  making  Nectar,  fo  call'd  even  to  this  day,  they  'A/  &&**!, 
make  ufe  of  another  kind  of  Grape,  fomewhat  ftiptick,  which  makes  it  Avi^l*tn-' 
1  difficult  to  fwallow.     The  Vineyards  moft  in  efteem  are  thofe  of  Mejla,  fi,cum* , 
from  whence  the  Antients  had  their  Ne&ar :  Mejla  is  as  it  were  the  Ca* 
pital  of  that  famous  Quarter  call'd  by  the  Antients  Arioufia. 

FROM  hence  we  may  eafily  comprehend,  why  we  fee  in  Goltzius Deinfui.G«a 
'fome  Medals  of  Scio  with  Bunches  of  Grapes  for  the  Imprefs  :  on  others  Tab,I5>8ci6, 
were  reprefented  '  Pitchers  or  Jars  fharp-pointed  at  bottom,  and  with  two  •  Diota. 
Ears  at  the  neck  ;  this  Figure  was  proper  for  feparating  the  Lees,  which 
precipitated  to  the  point  after  they  had  bury'd  'em  :  then  they  rack'd  off 

Oo  2  the 


284. 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 


the  Wine.  But  it  is  not  eafy  to  account  for  the  Reprefentation  of  a 
Sphinx  on  the  Reverfe  of  theie  Medals,  unlefs  the  Sphinx  ferv'd  the  Sciots 
for  a  Symbol,  as  the  Owl  did  the  Athenians. 

THERE  is  not  much  Oil  got  in  Scio,  the  bed  Crop  yields  but  about 
200  Hogfheads  ;  each  Hogftiead  weighing  400  Oques :  the  Oque  at  Scio 
is  but  three  Pound  two  Ounces.  Our  Countrymen  get  a  good  deal  of 
Honey  and  Wax  off  of  this  Ifland  ;  but  the  moft  confiderable  Mer- 
chandize is  their  Silk :  of  this  they  make,  one  year  with  another,  6cooo 
MafTes,  according  to  their  way  of  reckoning  j  that  is,  30000  Pounds,  the 
Mafs  weighing  half  of  our  Pound.  Almoft  all  this  Silk  is  ufed  in  the 
Ifland  in  the  Manufactures  of  Velvet,  Damask,  and  other  Stuffs,  defign'd 
for  Afia,  Egypt,  and  Barbary :  ibmetimes  they  mix  Gold  and  Silver  in 
thefe  Stuffs,  according  to  the  Fancy  of  the  Workers  or  Merchants.  Eve- 
ry Pound  of  Silk  pays  at  the  Cuftom-Houfe  four  Timins,  that  is,  twenty 
pence  ;  in  1700,  it  fold  for  35  Timins  the  Pound:  the  Buyer  pays  the 
Cuflom.  The  Turks  and  French  pay  3  per  C  ent.  for  all  the  Commodities 
of  the  Ifland :  the  Greeks,  the  Jews,  and  the  Armenians  pay  5  per  Cent. 
Hfty  Purfes.  Thefe  Duties  are  farm'd  at  25000  Crowns,  payable  to  the  Chief  Trea- 
surer of  Constantinople. 

THE  other  Wares  of  the  Ifland  are  Wool,  Cheefe,  Figs,  and  Maffick: 
the  Traffick  of  Wool  and  Cheefe  is  not  fo  confiderable  as  that  of  Figs; 
befides  what  are  fpent  in  making  Brandy,  they  fend  away  great  quanti- 
ties of  'em  to  the  neighbouring  Iflands.  Thefe  Figs  they  rear  by  Capri- 
fication ;  but  to  preferve  'em  they  are  forced  to  oven  'em,  where  they 
lofe  their  tafte.  They  have  no  Salt-pits  in  Scio ;  they  fetch  their  Salt 
from  Naxia  or  Fochia. 

BEFORE  we  fpeak  of  the  Maffick,  we  muff  obferve  that  the  Towns 
of  the  Ifland  are  diftinguifh'd  into  three  ClafTes ;  namely,  thole  del  Campo, 
thole  of  Apanomeria,  and  thofe  where  they  plant  Lentisk-Trees,  from 
whence  the  Maffick  in  Tears  is  produced.  The  Villages  del  Campo,  or 
thofe  in  the  Neighbourhood  of  the  Town,  are  BaJilionica,Thymiana,  Char- 
kios,  Neocorio,  Berber -ato,  Zjphia,  Bdtiti,  Daphnona,  Caries,  and  Petrana  ; 
this  laft  almoft  empty. 

THE  Villages  of  Apanomeru  are  St.  George,  Lithilimiona,  Argoui, 
where  Charcoal  is  made,  Anobato,  Sieroanta,   Piranca,  Purperia,  Tripez, 

St. 


Defer iption  of  the  IJland  of  Scio.  285 

St.Helene,  Caronia,  Kjramos,  Aleut  opoda,  Amarca,  Fit  a,  Cambiay  Viki,  A-  Letter  IX. 

malthos,  Cardamila,  Pytios,  Majatica,  Volijfo,  where  'tis  faid  they  can  fen-  ^-'v"^-' 

fibly  difcern  the  Sea  to  boil  ;  peradventure,  not  unlike  thofe  Bubblings 

of  hot  Water  in  Milo.     Spartonda  is  another  Village  in  the  fame  Quarter,  T<  vt**tvAur 

at  the  foot  of  Mount  Pelince,  the  higheft  Mountain  in  all  the  Ifland,  and 

now  known  by  the  name  of  Spartonda  :  on  its  top  is  built  the  Chappel  T»  °eg  ™f 

of  St.  Elijah,  hard  by  an  excellent  Spring ;  there's  the  Ruins  of  no  body 

knows  what  old  Caftle  fituated  on  the  fame  Mountain.     Near  the  Village  2«/&f«  k*- 

of  Calantra  there  are  feveral  hot  Springs. 

THE  Lentisk-Tree  Villages  are  Calimatia,  Tholopotami,  Merminghi, 
Dhidhinta,  Oxodidhima,  Paita,  Cataraffi,  Kjni,  Nenita,  where's  the  fa- 
mous Chappel  tof  St.  Michael,  Vounos,  Flacia,  Patrica,  Calamoti,  Armoglia, 
where  they  make  Stone-Pots,  Pirghi,  Apolychni,  Elimpi,  Elata,  Vejta7 
Mejla  in  the  renown'd  Arvifian  Field. 

ALL  the  Lentisk-Trees  belong  to  the  Grand  Signior,  and  they  can't 
be  fold  but  under  condition  that  the  Purchafer  pay  the  lame  quantity  of 
Maflick  to  the  Emperor  :  generally  the  Land  is  Ibid,  and  the  Trees 
referv'd. 

THESE  Trees  are  very  wide  fpread  and  circular,  ten  or  twelve  foot 
tall,  confuting  of  feveral  branchy  Stalks,  which  in  time  grow  crooked ; 
the  biggefl  Trunks  are  a  foot  diameter,  cover'd  with  a  Bark  greyilh,  rug- 
ged, chapt :  the  Branches  are  fubdivided  into  variety  of  Boughs  laden 
with  Leaves,  confiding  of  divers  Couples  rang'd  on  a  Slip  hollow'd  gut- 
ter-wile, two  inches  long,  and  a  line  broad.  The  Leaves  are  difpos'd  in 
three  or  four  Couples  on  each  fide,  about  an  inch  long,  narrow  at  the 
beginning,  pointed  at  their  extremity,  half  an  inch  broad  about  the 
middle.  From  the  Junctures  of  the  Leaves  grow  Flowers  in  Bunches  like 
Grapes:  the  Fruit  too  grows  like  Bunches  of  Grapes,  in  each  Berry 
whereof  is  contain'd  a  white  Kernel.  Thefe  Trees  blow  in  May ;  the 
Fruit  does  not  ripen  but  in  Autumn  and  Winter.   * 

THEY  plant  a  great  many  Lentisks  in  Provence  and  Languedoc,  but 
their  Leaves  are  not  fo  large  as  in  the  Levant.     Gajfendus  obferves,  that  via  Pefrefa 
about  Toulon  they  yield  fome  Grains  of  Maftick,  if  they  are  cut:  all 
things  confider'd,  it  is  not  the  Culture  makes  'em  productive  of  Maftick, 
as  is  commonly  thought  j  even  in  Scio  there  are  many  that  yield  hardly 

any 


2  8  6  .//Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

any  thing :  fuch  Stocks  therefore  as  plentifully  fhed  their  nutritious  Juice 
by  Incifions,  mull  be  preferv'd  and  propagated.  They  fometimes  prune 
'em  by  Moon-light  in  Otfober.  Perhaps  if  they  made  Incifions  in  thefe 
Trees  in  Candia,  in  the  Wands  of  the  ArcbipeUgc,  and  in  Provence  too, 
fbme  of  'em  would  yield  as  much  Maftick  as  thefe  of  Scio.  How  many 
Pines  do  we  fee  in  the  fame  Forefts  which  fcarce  afford  any  Rofin,  tho 
they  are  the  fame  Species  with  thofe  that  give  a  great  deal :  the  Struc- 
ture of  the  Roots  more  or  lefs  compact,  may  be  the  caufe  of  this 
difference. 

THEY  begin  to  make  Incifions  in  thefe  Trees  in  Scio  the  firfl  ofJu- 
gust,  cutting  the  Bark  crofs-ways  with  huge  Knives,  without  touching 
the  young  Branches  :  next  day  the  nutritious  Juice  diftils  in  fmall  Tears 
which  by  little  and  little  form  the  Maftick  Grains  ;  they  harden  on  the 
ground,  and  are  carefully  fvvept  up  from  under  the  Trees.  The  height 
of  the  Crop  is  about  the  middle  of  Augutf,  if  it  be  dry  ferene  Weather  • 
but  if  it  be  rainy,  the  Tears  are  all  loft. 

LIKEWISE  towards  the  end  of  September  the  fame  Incifions  furnifh 

Maftick,  but  in  lefler  quantities :  they  fift  it  to  clear  it  of  duft,  which 

Hicks  fo  faft  to  the  Faces  of  thofe  employ'd,  that  they  are  forced  to  uie 

Oil  to  wafh  it  off!     There  fometimes  comes  an  Aga  from  Conjlantiuople    to 

receive  the  Maftick  due  to  the  Grand  Signior,  or  elfe  they  appoint  the 

Cuftom-houfe  Officers  of  Scio  to  receive  it ;  who  go  to  three  or  four  of 

the  chief  Towns  before  named,  and  give  notice  to  the  Inhabitants  of  the 

reft,  to  bring  in  their  Contingent :  all  thefe  Villages  together  owe  286 

Chefts  of  Maftick,  weighing  1 00,025  Gques.    The  Cadi  of  Scio  takes  three 

Chefts  each  weighing  eighty  Oques,  one  Cheft  goes  to  him  that  keeps 

the  Accounts ;  the  Officer  at  the  Cuftom-houfe  that  weighs  the  Maftick 

takes  a  handful  out  of  each  Man's  parcel ;  the  Garbler,  or  Sifter,  likewife 

has  as  much  for  his  pains.     If  any  Perfon  is  caught  carrying  Maftick  to 

fuch  Towns  as  do  not  plant  the  Tree,  they  are  fentenced  to  the  Gallies 

and  ftript  of  all  they  are  worth.     Such  of  the  Peafants  as  gather  not 

enough  Maftick  to  pay  their  Quota,  buy  or  borrow  of  their  Neighbours ; 

and  thofe  who  have  more  than  enough,  keep  it  for  the  next  year,  or  fell 

it  privately.    Sometimes  they  compound  with  the  Cuftom-houfe  Officer, 

who  takes  it  at  one  Piafter  the  Oque,  and  fells  it  for  two  or  two  and  a  half. 

*  The 


Defer iption  of  the  Ifland  of  Scio.  287 

The  Planters  of  the  Lentisks  pay  but  half  the  Capitation,  and  wear  the  Letter  IX. 
white  Safh  round  their  Turbant  as  well  as  theTurks.  •*fDr\j 

THE  Sultanas  confume  the  greateft  part  of  the  Maftick  defign'd  for 
the  Seraglio  :  they  chew  it  by  way  of  Amufement,  and  to  give  an  agree- 
able Smell  to  their  Breath,  especially  in  a  Morning  fading ;  they  alfo  put 
fome  Grains  of  Maftick  in  perfuming  Pots,  and  in  their  Bread  before  it 
goes  to  the  Oven.  Maftick  is  likewiie  beneficially  ufed  in  Diftempers  of 
the  Stomach  and  the  Vrima  Vixy  to  flop  Bleeding,  and  fortify  the  Gums. 

THE  Turpentine  Harveft  is  likewife  made  by  cutting  crofs-ways  with1*'"'''*?*" ?  $ 
a  Hatchet  the  Trunks  of  the  biggeft  Turpentine-Trees,  from  the  end  of  **««  J#  x^» 
July  to  October :  the  Turpentine  runs  down  on  flat  Stones  placed  under  Diofc.  Tib.  u 
the  Trees;  they  fell  it  on  the  fpot  for  30  or  3 5  Parats  the  Oque,  that  is, caP-9°- 
three  Pound  and  a  half  and  an  Ounce.     The  whole  Ifland  produces  not 
above  200  Oques:  this  Liquor  is  an  excellent  natural  Balfam,  afovereignn^^b5"** 
Stomachick,  and  good  for  provoking  Urine ;  but  care  mult  be  taken  not  Vm  »)  T4p- 
to  give  it  to  Perfons  that  have  the  Stone,  nor  indeed  any  other  Diure- (bi^'ap.'iii* 
ticks,  which  have  been  found  by  experience  to  do  hurt  rather  than  good 
to  fuch  Perfons. 

THESE  Trees  grow  here  without  Culture,  on  the  Borders  of  the 

Vineyards,  and  along  the  Highway ;  their  Trunk  is  as  tall  as  rhat  of  the 

Lentisk,   as  full  of  Branches,    cover'd  with   a  chapt  afh-coIourM  Barki 

The  Leaves  grow  on  a  Rib  about  four  inches  long,  reddifh ;  thefe  Leaves 

ire  about  two  inches  long,  an  inch  broad,  pointed  at  both  ends,  bright 

*reen,  and  have  an  aromatick  Tafte,  with  fbmewhat  of  Stipticity^     It  is 

,vith  the  Turpentine  as  with  the  Lentisk  ;  that  is,  fuch  Branches  as  bear 

1  Flower,  have  no  Fruit  ;    and  mch  as  bear  Fruit,  have  generally  no 

"lower :  thefe  Flowers  grow  at  the  extremity  of  the  Branches  towards 

he  end  of  April,  before  there's  any  appearance  of  Leaves ;  they  grow  in 

:Iufters  like  Grapes,  four  inches  long.     Each  Flower  has  five  Stamina^ 

vhich  are  not  a  line  long,  charg'd  at  top  With  Summits,  yellowifh,  full 

)f  duft  of  the  fame  colour.     The  Fruit  begins  with  Embryos  cluftering 

lfo  like  Bunches  of  Grapes,  three  or  four  inches  long,  which  rife  from 

he  Centre  of  a  Cup  confiding  of  five  greeniih  pointed  Leaves,  fcarce  a 

ine  long.     Each  Embryo  is  fhining,    ileek,  light  green,   oval-pointed; 

hey  turn  afterwards  to  a  Cod,  firm,  three  or  four  lines  lgng,  oval,  cover'd 

with 


2 83  ^Voyage  into  ^Levant. 

with  an  orange-colour'd  Skin,  foniewhat  flefhy,  ftiptick,  acrid,  refinous  ;' 
the  Cod  contains  a  Kernel,  flefhy,  white,  wrapt  in  a  reddifh  Coat  :  the 
Wood  of  the  Turpentine  is  white. 

IN  time  of  Peace  the  Cadi  governs  the  whole  Country:  in  War-time 
a  Balhaw  is  fcnt  to  command  the  Troops.     The  Mufti  of  Conjtantinople 
names  the  Cadi  of  Scio,  (he  is  a  Cadi  of  500  Afpers  a  day,  that  is,  one 
of  the  firft  Rank ;)  for  in  Turkj,  tho  there  are  no  Appointments  for  thefe 
fort  of  Officers,  yet  they  are  diftinguiih'd  into  feveral  honorary  ClafTes ; 
namely,  thofe  of  500  Afpers  a  day,  of  400,  of  300,  of  250:  all  thefe 
Judges  Subfiftence  ariies  from  a  Fee  of  8  or  10  per  Cent,  out  of  the  Caufes.- 
they  try.     There's  no  Waivode  here,  only  an  Aga-Janizary,  who  has 
under  him  about  150  Janizaries  in  time  of  Peace,  and  3  or  400  in  War-, 
time.     In  all  Scio  there  are  not  above  iocoo  Souls  of  the  Turks,  3000.     ' 
of  the  Latins ;  but  'tis  reckon'd  there's  100,000  Greeks. 

THE  Capitation  is  divided  into  three  ClaiTes  in  this  Ifland ;  the 

higheft  is  ten  Crowns  three  Parats,  the  middlemoft  five  Crowns  three. 

Parats,  the  loweft  two  Crowns  and  a  half  and  three  Parats ;  the  three 

Parats  are  for  him  that  gives  the  Acquittance  :  Women  and  Maids  pay  no 

Capitation.     In  order  to  diflinguilh  who  are  to  pay  this  Tax,  they  take 

rneafure  of  their  Neck  with  a  String  ;  then  doubling  this  meafure,  they- 

put  both  ends  into  the  Party's  mouth,  and  throw  the  String  over  his  head, 

which  if  it  can  get  clean  through  this  meafure,  the  Perfon  is  fubjecl:  to ' 

the  Tax,  other  wife  he  is  exempt.     They  pay  no  Land-Tax,  but  only  fome 

arbitrary  Imports  to  clear  off  the  Debts  of  the  City,  the  Affairs  whereof 

go  through  the  hands  of  four  new  Deputies  elected  once  a  year,  and  eight 

Antients  :  in  each  Village  is  chofen  two  Admin iflrators  and  four  Antients. 

'h  Ka?^fxi-       THE  1 2th  of  March  we  went  to  the  North  of  the  Ifland,  to  fee  the 

lib'.  s.lMi)  '    Ruins  of  an  antient  Temple  five  miles  from  Cardamjla,  a  Village  eighteen 

To  AeAjlww  miles  from  Scio.  beyond  Port  Dolphin.     Cardamyla  and  the  Port  Dolphin 

ibid.  have  retain'd  their  old  Names :  as  for  the  Temple,  'tis  unknown  whom 

it  was  confecrated  to  ;  but  there  are  no  Vefligia  of  any  flately  Edifice. 

It  was  built  in  an  ugly  narrow  Valley :  the  Situation  of  the  Place,  and  the 

Paufan.Achak.  Amours  of  Neptune  with  a  Nymph  of  this  Illand,  made  us  fufpect  it 

was  dedicated  to  that  God;  for  as  for  the  Temple  of  Apollo,  mention'd  by 

Strabo>  it  was  to  the  South  of  the  Ifland,  and  confeauently  very  far 

*  from 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Scio.  289 

from  this.    Below  this  pretended  Temple  of  Neptune,  runs  a  fine  Spring  Letter  IX.' 
out  of  a  Rock,  arid  which  perhaps  gave  occafion  of  rearing  this  Edifice  ^>"v>^ 
there  :  'tis  not  likely  that  this  Spring  was  the  Fountain  of  Helen,  in  which 
Stephens  the  Geographer  lays  that  Princels  was  accuftom'd  to  bathe.     The 
Cafcade  of  it  is  very  pretty,  ifiuing  from  a  Rock ;  but  there's  no  Re- 
mains of  thofe  Marble  Steps  Ipoken  of  by  M.  Thevenot :  that  Traveller 
was  doubtlefs  mifinform'd,  or  rather,  in  that  Manufcript  whence  his  chief 
Defcription  of  Scio  was  taken,  they  had  confounded  the  Spring  of  Naos 
with  the  Fountain  of  Sclavia,  which  runs  on  a  Marble  Bottom  in  the  Es, ,»  KfWj 
moft  delicious  Spot  of  Ground  in  the  whole  Ifland,  which  is  fhewn  to  *kV" .'?  ? 
Strangers  as  one  of  the  Wonders  of  Scio.  to.  steph. 

AS  for  that  other  Spring  in  Scio,  which  Vitruvius  reports  to  have  de-  Lib.3.  cap.  3. 
priv'd  of  their  Senfes  whoever  drank  of  it,  and  for  that  reafon  there 
was  an  Epigram  put  over  it  by  way  of  Caution  to  PalTengers ;  we  had 
fome  tranfient  Difcourfe  concerning  it  withM.  Ammiralli,  who  hadftudy'd  **m\vlt  y 
at  Paru,  and  at  prefent  practifes  Phyfick  with  much  applaufe  in  his  na-    ^"^ 
tive  Country  Scio  ;  he  allured  us  there  was  no  talk  now  of  any  luch 
Fountain,  nor  of  the  Scio-Earth  mention'd  by  Diofcorides  and  Vitruvius. 
'Tis  true,  Natural  Hiflory  is  what  no  body  in  this  Country  bends  their 
Minds  to  :  even  the  old  Greek  Tongue  is  very  much  neglected.     M.  Am- 
miralli, who  has  tranflated  Bourdon's  Anatomy  into  that  Tongue  ;  the 
Papas,  Gabriel  and  Clement ;  are  the  three  only  Perlbns  of  this  Ifland 
that  underfland  it:  they  highly  efteem  Budaus's- Greek  Letters,  andM.Af<?- 
nage's  Poems  in  that  Tongue. 

THIS  Ifland  has,  in  times  pall,  produced  very  extraordinary  Men  •  Strab.  Rer. 
Ion  the  Tragick  Poet,  Theopompus  the  Hiftorian,  Theocritus  the  Sophift :  Ge0S*  lib- 10« 
the  Sciots  pretend  too,  that  Homer  was  their  Countryman,  and  to  this 
very  day  fliew  the  School  he  went  to  ;  it  is  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Epos  on 
the  Sea-fide,  four  miles  from  the  Town :  it  is  a  flat  Rock,  wherein  has 
been  hew'd  a  fort  of  round  Bafon,  twenty  foot  diameter,  the  Edge  made 
lb  as  to  fit  on  •  out  of  the  middle  of  this  Bafon  arifes  a  piece  of  a  Rock 
cut  like  a  Cube  or  Dye,  about  three  foot  in  height,  and  two  foot  eight 
inches  broad,  on  the  fides  whereof  were  antiently  carv'd  certain  Animals, 
now  fo  disfigur'd  there's  no  knowing  'em,  tho  fome  fancy  'em  to  bear  the 
refemblance  of  Lions. 

Vol.  I.  P  p  'TIS 


spo  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant 

"tori*  mha(  ■     T I S  difficult  to  decide  what  Town  Homer  was  of;  he  feems  to  have 
fiCw^om*,  induftrioufly  conceal'd  the  Place  of  his  Birth;  for  he  drops  nor  the  lead 
K^*i!s*-f'  **iQt  concerning  it,  in  any  of  his  Works.     '  Leo  Allatius,  a  very  Learned 
**p{f>  Xl^>  Man,  a  Native  of  Scio,  has  taken  a  great  deal  of  pains  to  prove  him  to- 
vm.  Aui.Geii.be  of  this  Ifland  :   all  things  well  weigh'd,  tho  feven  renowned  Cities 
So".  Hb!\.  contended  for  the  Honour  of '  Homerh  Birth,  'tis  highly  probable  this 
~-  Leo  Allat.  de  Great  Man  was  either  of  Smyrna  or  Scio.     Peradventure  the  School  raen- 
tion'd  above,  ferv'd  for  a  Study ing-plaee  to  fuch  as  were  defirous  to  get 
his  Verfes  by  heart  ;  for  all  Authors  agree,  the  Homerides  were  Inhabi- 
tants and  Citizens  of  this  Ifland :  they  are  faid  to  defcend  from  Homer  ;. 
and  in  this  Superftition  'tis  poffible  they  caus'd  this  Rock  to  be  cut,  to* 
ferve  for  a  School  to  young  People  that  were  willing  to  inflrucl;  themfelves 
in  the  Works  of  Homer,  as  being  the  Prince  of  Poets,  an  excellent  Hifto-^ 
rian,  and  moft  complear  Geographer  :  this  School  therefore  may  have 
been  the  place  where  they  repeated  their  Leflons  ;  the  Matter  fitting  om 
the  Cube,  and  the  Scholars  on  the  Rim  of  the  Bafbn. 
Lib.  i.  contra     NEVER  did  any  Work  pafs  through  (6  many  hands  as  that  of  Ho- 
pimmch.  in    mer-    tyfefius  fays,,  that  his  Verfes  were  preferv'd  by  way  of  Tradition 
Lycurg.         from  rne  firft  moment  they  appear'd,  and  that  without  writing  'em  down* 

Herac.dePolit.    ,  i  L       l  r  U  J    t         n 

.*Han.  verf.     they  were  commonly  got  by  heart ::  Lycurgits,.  the  renowned  Legiflator 

wp!'i4.  *3'   °^  Lacedemon,  found  all  thefe  pieces  in  Ionia,  from  whence  he  brought 

'em  into  Peloponnefus.     'Twas  cultomary  to  repeat  thefe  Parcels  of  Homer 

Laerun  Solon.  ,        ,  m  <.  t  .    ■  n  r      n   ^ 

cic.de  Orat.  under  different  names,  as  we  do  now-a-days  the  Airs  of  our  nneit  Ope- 
Jib.  3.  ras  .  ^ur  Solon,  Pififiratus,  and  Hipparchus  his  Son,  pieced  'em  together,, 

Paufan.  in  and  reduced  'em  into  two  regular  Bodies;  the  Iliad  and  the  Odyflee. 
Achaic-  ..  Ariftotle,  by  Command  of  Alexander  the  Great,  revis'd  thefe  Poems ;  nay,, 
strab.  lib.  13.  that  Conqueror  himfelf  would  needs  affift  therein,  together  with  Callifihe- 
nes  and  Anaxarchus.  This  Edition  of  Homer's  Works  was  call'd  the 
*****  w3£f  Edition  of  the  Casket,  becaufe  it  was  lock'd  up  in  a  Casket  which  Alexan- 
Plutarch,  in     jer  ufe(j  to  ]ay  uncjer  his  Pillow  a-nights.     He  afterwards  had  this  Book. 

Alex.  &  Strab.  »■  D 

ibid.  put  into  a  little  perfumed  Box,  adorn'd  with  Gold,  Pearl,  and  the  molt 

^in-H,^at' precious  Stones..    3  Zjnodotus  of  Ephefus,  Preceptor  of  the  Ptolemy  s,  Ara- 

\  Suid.  tus,  Arijlophanes  of  Byzantium,  Ariftarchus  of  Samothr&ce,,  and  many  other 

bright  Wits,  undertook  to  reflore  to  Homer  his  original  Beauties;  but 

they  have  made  fo  many  alterations  in  it,  that  'tis  faid  if  Homer  were 

4--  alive, 


I 


* 


/«v.->r. 


T'a.'.a.gj 


S.7;'.-!.JJ 


ffs/?f,-/i  c^fr/tr Isfa/nY  cy 


|j   to 


*Defcription  of  the  IJUnd  of  Srio.  291 

alive,  he  would  fcarce  know  it  to  be  his  Work.  It  muft  however  be  al-  Letter  IX. 
low'd  to  be  the  compleateft  Piece  in  its  kind  that  ever  was  produced  *~/"VVj 
among  the  Greeks.  Paterculus,  according  to  his  ufual  cuftom,  has  in  a 
few  words  given  it  its  due  praifc :  He  is  the  only  Poet,  fays  he,  that  me- 
rits that  name ;  and  what  is  wonderful,  is,  there  was  no  Man  before  him 
whom  He  tould  imitate,  nor  after  his  death  any  body  to  be  found  that  could 
imitate  Him. 

BESIDES  Homer's  School,  they  fliew  his  Dwelling-Houfe,  where 
lie  compos'd  mod  of  his  Poems.     This  Houfe,  you  may  be  fure,  is  in 
none  of  the  beft  condition  ;  for  Homer  lived  961  Years  before  Chrift.     It  Mum.  o.w., 
Hands  in  a  place  which  bears  the  Poet's  Name,  to  the  North  of  the  Bpoch"  3°* 
Ifland  near  Voltjfo,  calPd  Bolijfus  by  the  Author  of  Homer's  Life,  and  Thu-  bSa/ww.  Tiw- 
cydides.     Voltjfo  is  in  the  midft  of  the  Arvifian  Fields,  which  fupply'd  the  Author  vit* 
Nectar;  and  perhaps  this  Liquor  was  what  did  not  a  little  help  to  elevate  Homer. 
the  Poet's  Genius.     He  is  reprefented  on  a  Medal  of  Cardinal  Barberinfs  Leo  Aiiat.  de 
Collection,  fitting  on  a  Chair,  holding  a  Scroll  of  Writing  :  the  Reverfe  Fatria  Homer* 
is  a  Sphinx,  the  Symbol  of  Scio.     Father  Hardouin  (peaks  of  a  like  Me-  xiqn. 
dal ;  M.  Baudelot  has  fbme  of  Smyrna,  with  the  fame  Type,  but  a  difle-  smtp- 
rent  Legend. 

TO  conclude,  'tis  pleafant  living  at  Scio,  and  the  Women  there  are  x»« 'Opmar 
better  bred  than  «n  the  other  parts  of  the  Levant.     Tho  their  Drefs  looks  f /°^X* 
odd,  yet  they  have  a  diftinguifhing  Neatnefs.     There's  good  Cheer  at  Jui.Poii.  iib-9» 
Scio :  the  Oyfters  they  bring  from  Metelin  are  excellent ;  and  Wild-Fowl 
they  have  in  great  plenty,  efpecially  Partridge  :   they   are   as  tame  as 
Hens.     Some  about  Veffa  and  Elata  breed  'em  up  with  care  :  in  the  Morn- 
ing they  carry  'em  into  the  fields  to  feek  their  Meat,  like  Flocks  of  Sheep ; 
each  Family  traits  its  Stock  to  a  common  Keeper,  who  in  the  Evening 
brings  'em  back,  after  he  has  call'd  them  in  with  a  Whiftle.     If  any  Owner 
has  a  mind  to  have  his  brought  home  in  the  day-time,  the  fame  Signal 
does  the  bufmefs,  and  you  fee  'em  come  without  the  leafl  confufion.     I 
have  feen  a  Man  in  Provence,  who  ufed  to  lead  Droves  of  Partridges 
into  the  Country,  and  call  'em  to  him  when  he  pleated  ;  he  would  take 
'em  up  with  his  hand,  put  'em  in  his  bofom,  and  afterwards  difmifs  'em  to 
pick  up  a  Livelihood  with  the  reft. 

P p  2  AS 


292  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

AS  for  Plants,  the  Ifle  of  Sclo  produces  very  fine  ones.    The  two 

Species  of  Leontopetalov,  (Lion's-blade)  which  I  have  taken  notice  of  in. 

the  Corollary  of  Botanick  Institutions^  are  very   common  here  in  certain 

places.     We  obferv'd  near  the  Town  a  fort  of  Ariflolochia,  (Birthwort) 

whofe  Flower  feem'd  to  me  too  extraordinary  not  to  take  down  the 

figure  of  it. 

Ariftoiochia         THE  Root  of  this  Plant  is  a  foot  and  a  half  long,  two  inches  thick, 

fubhlrfuevfo-  picked  at  the  bottom,  hard,  woody,  crofs'd  by  a  very  folid  Nerve,  yel- 

\\o  obiongo,    i0Wjfh    marbled  white  and  red,  cover'd  with  a  Bark  fleihy,  moderately 

flore  minimo.  '  '  *  '  J 

ctr.i.  Rcimft.  purple.  This  Root  is  accompany'd  with  a  few  Fibres,  but  it  is  intolera* 
bly  bitter,  and  puts  out  many  Stumps  or  Heads  producing  whitifh  Buds, 
ending  in  Stalks  a  foot  high  in  the  Spring-time  ;  they  afterwards  ftretch 
to  two  foot,  firm,  folid,  two  lines  thick,  pale  green,  rough,  gutter'd, 
purple  at  their  beginning,  and  lying  along  the  ground.  Thefe  Stalks  are 
adorn'd  with  a  Leaf  at  each  Knot,  about  three  inches  long,  and  two  and 
a  half  broad  at  the  BalTs ;  which  Bafis  twirls  or  is  rounded  like  two  Ears, 
below  which  it  grows  narrower  infenfibly,  and  terminates  in  an  obtule 
Point,  winch  ends  in  a  little  ihort  Beak.  The  upper  part  of  the  Leaf 
is  dark  green,  Alining,  veining  our  into  irregular  Squares  :  the  under 
part  is  gteenifh,  fet  off  with  a  very  fenfible  Nervation.  From  their  Junc- 
tures grows  a  Flower  fupported  by  a  Stalk  an  inch  or  two  long,  termina- 
ting in  an  angulous  Cup,  with  fix  large  Channellings  about  half  an  inch 
long.  Each  Flower  is  crooked  like  the  Letter  S,  three  inches  and  a  half 
long.  It  begins  with  a  Cod  eight  or  nine  lines  thick,  pale  green,  angu- 
lous, which  lengthens  into  a  retorted  Pipe,  half  an  inch  thick,  ending 
in  a  huge  Mouth  almoft  oval,  eighteen  or  twenty  lines  diameter,  the 
Rims  equally  round.  The  Hollow  of  this  Mouth  is  almofl  cover'd  with 
white  Hairs,  a  line  and  a  half  long.  The  Ground-work  thereof  is  pur- 
ple, black,  and  livid,  with  fome  clearer  Spots,  and  fet  off  with  a  large 
Rifing  in  the  place  where  the  Mouth  begins  to  contract  it  felf  into  a.  Pipe : 
the  Infide  whereof  is  alio  purple-colour'd,  hairy,  as  is  the  Infide  of  the 
Cod,  which  is  pale.  At  the  bottom  of  this  Cod  is  a  Hexagonal  Button, 
two  lines  and  a  half  in  diameter,  fet  off  with  large  Stalks,  between  which 
there  are  Summits  which  fhed  a  yellow  Duft.  This  Flower  has  no  Scent 
at  all ;  the  whole  Plant  is  bitter. 

*  THE 


•    /I'/.J'. 


J\,.a    a.:?2. 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Metelin.  293 

Letter  DC. 

THE  flxong  defire  we  had  to  feeConftantinople,  made  us  depart  from  ^*r~sr^*' 
Scio  the  27th  of  March  on  a  Turki(b  Saick  ;  the  28th  we  reach'd  C Afire-, 
the  Capital  of  the  Ifland  of  Metelin,  formerly  call'd  Lesbos.     It  is  pretty  Mt->»n>»V- 
plain,  from  Strabo's  Defcription  of  the  two  Ports  of  Mytilene,  that  Cafiro  su.ib.  r«.' 
was  built  on  its  Ruins.     This  Geographer,  and  Steph.wus  Byzantinus  who-  e°3'  '  ,l3* 
often  copy'd  him,  term  Mytilene  a  very  large  City.     Cicero  and  Vitruvius  ^[^-^^%c 
fpeak  of  nothing  but  its  Magnificence ;  nor  indeed  is  there  any  thing  Co  viuw,  lib.  1. 
be  feen  but  Stumps  of  Columns,  mod  of  'em  white  Marble,  or  am-C3P,d* 
colour'd ;  fome  of  'em  are  fluted  direct,  others  fpiral ;  fbme  are  oval,  let 
off  with  Plat-bands  like  thofe  of  the  Temple  of  Delos  t  but  thofe  of  Me-^ 
telin  are  not  fluted  on  the  fides.     Among  thefe  Ruins  'tis  incredible,  the 
number  of  Chapiters,  Frizes,  Pedeftals,  Scraps  of  blind Infcriptions,  with  » 
the  word  Gymnafiarch  up  and  down. 

THIS  recall'd  to  our  minds  the  noted  Epicurus,  who  read  publick  Lec- 
tures at  Mytilene  at  $2  Years  of  Age,  as  we  are  told  by  Diogenes  LaertitU' 
Arifiotle  refided  alio  here  two  Years,  according  to  that  Author..    Marcellus^ 
after  the  Battel  of  Pbarfaliar  not  daring  to  appear  before  C&far,  retired  hi- 
ther to  fpend theremainder  of  his  days  in  Study;  nor  could  Cicero  prevail* 
on  him  to  come  to  Rome,  to  experience  the  Conqueror's  [Clemency,  1 

MTTILENE  has  produced  Great  Men  antiently.     Pittacus,  -one  ofr 
the  feven  Sages  of  Greece,  whofe  Sentences  were  written  on  the  Walls  of 
Apollo's  Temple  at  Delphos,  in  order  to  refcue  his  Country,  Mytilene,  from/ 
the  Servitude  of  Tyrants,  afTumed  the  Government  himfelf,  but  fteelyj 
refign'd  it  again  to  his  Fellow-Citizens.     The  Poet  Alc<eus,  and  Sappho- 
whom  Strabo  calls  a  Prodigy,  were  of  Mytilene,  and  lived  about  the  fame: 
time.     They  ftruck  Medals  at  Mytilene  in  honour  of  thefe  three  illuftrious      „        „ 
Perfons      'Tis  from  thefe  Medals  we  learn  that  the  Name  of  this  Tovvru  aakaios.  • 
mud  be  written  with  a y,  tho  in  Str&bo  'tis  with  an  /'.     Pittacus  is  reprefent-.  'o/M/7v,v>^ 
ed  on  one  fide  of  one  of  thefe  Medals,  and  Alctus  on  the  other.    M.  Spon  ^j  £  J^Jjft 
hascaus'done  to  be  graved,  where  Sappho  is  fitting,  with  a  Lyre  in  hec"'^^7?"' 
hand;  on  the  other  fide  is  the  Head  of  Naujicaa,  Daughter  of  Akinous7'nu\  ctpa. 
whofe  Gardens  are  fo  extol'd  by  Homer.    The  Memory  of  this  Towiv^0^'^; 
will  never  be  loft  among  Antiquaries  ;  the  Cabinets  of  the  Curious  are  fu!lrtore  H,e™c!e° 

01  '  And  on  the 

of  Medals  of  Mytilene,  ftruck  with  the  Heads  of.  Jupiter,.  Apolloy  Livia±°th^  fide,  h- 

Tibe-  cikaan.     " 


294-  >£  Voyage  into  the  Levant 

Tiberius,  Cuius  Cafar,  Germanicus,  Agrippina,  Julia,  Adrian,  Marcus  Aa- 
relius,  Venus,  Commodus,  Crifpina,  Julia  Domna,  Caracalla,  Alexander  Se- 
verus,  Valerian,  GeHian,  Salouina.  Long  after  Ptttacus,  Mytilene,  Strabo 
fays,  produced  the  Rhetorician  Diopbanus ;  and  in  the  Age  of  Auguftus, 
Potamon,  Lesbode,  Crinagoras,  and  Tbeophanes  the  Hiftorian,  who  was  fo 
well  known  on  account  of  his  Friendlhip  with  Pompey,  whofe  glorious 
Actions  he  had  a  great  fhare  in. 

CASTRO,  or  the  antienr  Mytilene,  at  this  time  is  far  inferiour  to  the 
Town  of  Scio;  but  the  Ifle  of  Metelm  is  much  bigger  than  the  Ifle  of 
Scio,  and  ftretches  far  towards  the  North-Eaft.     Strabo  makes  Lesbos  to  be 
137  miles  and  a  half  in  compafs,  and  Pliny  and  Jfidcrus  168  miles,  nay 
195.     We  were  told  there  were  flill  in  this  Ifland  120  Villages,  among 
Esgwaf.         which  is  Eriffo,  doubdefs  the  anrient  Town  of  Ereffus,  the  Birth-place  of 
Tbeophrajlus  and  Phanias,  the  two  famed  Difciples  of  Arifiotle.     But  we  had 
not  time  to  go  to  Erijfo^  being  only  Paflengers  in  a  Turkijfj  Bark.     Strabo 
has  fb  exactly  noted  the  Situation  of  the  antient  Towns  of  Lesbos,  that 
'tis  no  hard  matter  to  find  'em  out  by  perambulating  the  Country.     No- 
thing gives  more  pleafure  to  a  Traveller,  than  to  behold  the  Birth-places 
of  Illuftrious  Men ;  This  Ifland  has  turn'd  out  a  good  number  of  flich. 
fiut»rA.  de     Plutarch  writes,  that  the  Lesbians  were  the  greateft  Muficians  of  Greece  : 
the  famous  Arion  was  of  Meilrymne,  the  Ruins  whereof  to  this  day  exift 
here.     Terpander,  who  was  the  firft  that  fitted  feven  Strings  to  the  Lyre 
was  a  Lesbian  ;  which  occafiou'd  the  Fable  of  Orpbeus's  Head  being  heard 
to  fpeak  in  this  I  Hand  after  it  was  cut  off  in  Thrace,  as  is  ingenioufly  ex- 
AdVerC537.  plain'd  by  Eufiathius,  in  his  Notes  on  Dionyfius  Alexandrinus.     Eujlathius 
alfo  obferves,  that  the  Ifland  was  named  Mytilene  from  the  Name  of  the 
Rer.  Geog.     Town.     It  is  plain,  Metelin  is  made  of  Mytilene.     Strabo  adds  alfb  to  the 
number  of  the  Lesbian  Worthies  Hellanicus,  a  celebrated  Hiftorian    and 
C alii  as,  who  made  Notes  on  the  Poems  of  Alctus  and  Sappho. 
AifZ'icw,  V      SO  much  for  the  bright  fide  of  the  Lesbians ;  now  let  us  turn  the  ta- 
bles, and  wefhall  find  they  werefo  corrupt  in  their  Morals,  that  a  worfe 
thing  could  not  be  faid  of  a  Man,  than  that  he  lived  like  a  Lesbian.    In 
Gelt d us  there's  a  Medal  which  does  no  great  honour  to  the  Ladies  of 
this  Ifland;  yet  to  do  juftice  to  its  prefent  fiir  Inmates,  they  are  not  fo 
great  Coquets  as  thofe  of  M'do  and  Argenttere.     Their  Drefs  is  not  fo  im- 

niodeft, 


AV^ 


f&i.x. 


Jky-agj.     ^7 


Dejcription  of  the  IJknd  of  Metdin/  295 

modefr>  tho  they  expofe  their  Breads  a  little  too  much :  fome  go  into  Letter IX. 
the  other  Extreme,  and  let  ye  fee  nothing  of  them  but  the  Roundnefs  *~*?~**^*j 
through  a  piece  of  Linen; 

THE  Soil  of  Metelin  looks  to  be  very  good  :  the  Mountains  there  are  Hic  wmmrf* 
cool,  and  cover'd  with?  Wood  in  many  places.     The  Ifland  produces  good  duces  fab  um. 
Wheat,  excellent  Oil,  the  beft  Figs  in  the  Ar cbipelago  :  nor  have  its  Wines  q&  *'"£  Ir 
loft  any  thing  of  their  antient  Reputation.  Strabo,  Horace,  Atbenxus,  Elian,  Non  eatJem 
would  like  'em  full  as  well  now  as  in  their  own  time.    Arifiotle,  in  the  Ago-  arbonbus  pen- 
ny of  Death,  pronoune'd  in  favour  of  the  Wine  of  Lesbos.     Upon  debating  noftris, 
about  a  Perfon  to  fucceed  him  in  the  Lyceum,  proper  to  keep  up  the  Re-  2fa£*3^r* 
putation  of  the   Peripatetick  School,   Menedemus  of  Rhodes  and  Theo-  £'  de  PaIm"e 
fhrajlus  of  Lesbos  put  in  for  ir.     Arijlotle  call'd  for  fome  Wine  of  each-^.  2.  betrpu 
Kland,  and  after  he  had  deliberately  tafted  it,  They  are  both  excellent  Wines,  Utmmque,  in- 
ery'd  he,  but  this  of  Lesbos-  is  moft  agreeable  of  the  two ;  thereby  giving  to  bonum Pfed° 
underfland,  that  Theophrajlus  as  far  excel'd  his  Competitor,  as  the  Lesbian  ifwiAtfr'l 
Wine  did  that  of  Rhodes,.    Trifianus  gives  the  Type  of  a  Medal  of  Geta,M- 13.  "»m.- 
who,  according  to  Spartianus,  was  a  dear  Lover  of  good  Wine :  the  Re-  S?^?/ 
verfe  reprefents  a  Fortune  holding  in  her  right  hand  a  Rudder  of  a  Ship,, 
and  in  her  left  a  Cornucopia,  with  a  Bunch  of  Grapes  among  other  Fruit. 
Pliny  praHes  the  Wine  of  this  Iflandj  on  the  Authority  of  Erafijlratus, 
one  of  the  greateft  Phyficians  of  Antiquity. 

THE  fame  Author  and  If  dor  us  fpeak  of  the  Jafper  of  Lesbos  \  but  we 
had  not  leifure  to  fee  it,  any  more  than  the  Pine-Trees  which  yield  a. 
black  Pitch,  and  Planks  to  build  fmall  Veffels.     Our  Captain  made  us 
pay  at  the  Port  of  Petra,  from  whence  we  durft  not  ftir,  left  he  fhould' 
go  away  and  leave  us :  the  T»rki[h  Captains  make  their  PafTengers  pay 
before-hand,  and  never  trouble  themfelves  afterwards  about  'em.    Petra. 
is  a  poor  Place  ;  all  the  pleafure  we  had,  was  to  drink  Coffee  at  z  Turk's 
Houfe,  who  had  been  long  a  Slave  at  Marfeilles^  and  who  inform'd  us  con- 
cerning the  Ports  of  the  Ifland,  which  areCaftro,  or  the  antient  Mytilene, 
Port  Olivier,  Calcni,  and  Port  Sigre..    He  allured  us  there  were  in  the 
Ifland  many  Turks  mix'd  with  the  Chriftians  of  the  Greek  Rite,.    The 
Cadi  and  the  Janizary-Aga  refide  at  Cajlro,  as  alfo  the  Vice-Conful  of 
Trance,,  who  is  fent  by  the  Conful  of  Smyrna.     Cajtro  is  not  the  only 
Port  of  the  Ifland;.    Jero,  known  to  the  Franks  by  the  Name  of  Port  Oli- 
vier 


> 


296  y^  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

'-5non.         vjer,  and  whofe  Entrance  is  between  the  Eaft  and  the '  South-Eaft,  is 

ieckon'd  one  of  the  largeft  handfomeft  Ports  of  the  Mediterranean.     The 

1  KaMSw,      other  Ports  of  Metelin  are  Calor/i  and  Sieve.     '  Caloni  is  the  beft  of  the 

apuJCantacuz.  ° 

lib.  2.  cap.  30.  two,  and  looks  Southward,  but  you  mult  leave  on  the  left  a  Rock  Weft- 
'  %pe#t:  ward  of  it  :  die  Entrance  of  Port  \  Sigre  is  between  the  South  and 
.MsLeJj.        4  South-Weft. 

TH  E  Canal  of  Lesbos  is,  according  to  Strabo  and  Pliny,  feven  miles 

>    7^  r»0m   and  a  half:  at  its  mouth  are  the  Iflands  of  Mofconifi,  which  fpread  to  the 

u^u^rj-nf  Coaft  of  the  autient  Town  of  Phocea  •  fome  of  whole  Inhabitants  not 

£ib*'ub*il'  DrOQ^iug  the  Perfian  Government,  came  to  the  Coaft  of  Provence,  and 

founded  MarfeiUes. 

WE  fail'dfrom  Port  Petra  the  25  th  of  March,  an  hour  after  Midnight, 
and  at  Break  of  Day  we  found  our  felves  in  fight  of  Tenedos.  Strabo  de- 
termines the  diftance  of  thefe  two  Iflands  62  miles,  and  Pliny  56 ;  they 
generally  reckon  60,  at  a  medium. 

Te-ke  dos.  TENEDOS  has  retain'd  its  Name  ever  fince  the  Trojan  War  :  all  the 
autient  Authors  agree,  that  this  Ifland,  which  was  wont  to  be  call'd  Leu- 
copbrys,  was  call'd  Tenedos,  from  one  Tenes  or  Tennes,  who  brought  a  Co- 

BibUoth.  Hift.  jony  thither.  Diodorus  Siculus  fpeaks  of  it  like  a  true  Hiftorian :  Tennes, 
fays  he,  was  illuftrious  for  his  Virtue  ;  he  was  Son  of  Cycnus  King  of  Co- 
lone  in  Troas,  and  after  he  had  built  a  Town  in  the  Ifle  Leucophrys,  he 
gave  it  the  Name  of  Tenedos.  He  was,  during  his  Life,  beloved  by  his 
Subjects,  and  adored  by  'em  after  his  Death ;  for  they  rais'd  a  Temple, 
in  which  they  offer'd  Sacrifice  to  him.  Diodorus  treats  as  fabulous  whan 
the  Inhabitants  of  Tenedos  publiih'd  concerning  him ;  but  Paujanias  and 

Phocic.  Suidas  fpeak  of  it  very  ferioufly,     'Tis  faid,  in  lhort,  that  Tennes  was  Son 

of  Cycnus  and  Proclea,  Sifter  of  Caletor,  who  was  kill'd  by  A]ax  at  the 
time  he  attempted  to  burn  the  Ships  of  Protefilaus.  After  the  death  of 
Proclea,  Cytnus  marry'd  Philonome,  who  thereby  became  Stepmother  of 
Tenne s  and  Hemithea  his  Sifter.  The  Hiftory  adds,  that  this  Stepmother 
(aw  fo  many  Charms  in  Tennes,  and  fo  little  difpofition  to  make  himfelf 
be  beloved  by  her,  that  flie  complain'd  to  her  Husband  how  her  Son  ) 
would  have  ravifh'd  her.  Stephanus  Byzantinus  adds,  that  the  Witnefs 
(he  produced  in  proof  of  her  Charge,  was  a  Player  on  the  Flute.     Cycnus, 

as 


;>/.i. 


Huj.  dfftP- 


IfU  of  TEREDOS 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Tenedos.  297 

as  much  affected  with  his  Wife's  Virtue,  as  incens'd  at  his  Son's  Auda-  Letter  IX- 
cioufnefs,  caus'd  him  to  be  lock'd  up  in  a  Cheft,  wherein  his  Sifter  He-  ^"W-i 
mithea  would  needs  accompany  him.     They  were  thrown  into  the  Sea, 
which  caft  'em  on  the  Ifland  we  are  fpeaking  of:  thefe  two  charming  Per- 
fbns  were  receiv'd  with  fuch  Applaufe,  that  Tennes  was  declared  King 
thereof     Some  time  after,  Cycnus,  convinced  of  his  Son's  Innocence, 
took  a  Refblution  to  go  to  Tenedos,  and  exprefs  his  Concern  for  what  had 
been  done  :    but  Tennes,  inftead  of  receiving  him,  went  to  the  Port, 
where  with  a  Hatchet  he  cut  the  Cable  that  faften'd  his  Father's  Ship.- 
The  Hatchet  was  not  loll :  Periclytm,  a  Citizen  of  Tenedos,  took  care  to  Suid. 
fee  it  carry'd  to  Delpbos,  into  the  Temple  of  Apollo ;  and  the  Tened.ia.ns 
confecrared  two  of  'em  in  the  Temple  of  their  City. 

THESE  Adventures  made  a  noife,  and  gave  birth  to  two  Proverbs : 
When  any  one  was  minded  to  reproach  a  falfe  Witnefs,  he  would  lay  he 
was  a  Flutenist  of  Tenedos  ;  and  when  any  Affair  was  to  be  diipatch'd  in  TtvUiocdstd* 
the  inftant,  they  brought  in  the  Hatchet  of  Tenedos.     Arijlotle,  cited  by  j^^".' 
Stepbanus  Byzantinus,  explains  the  thing   in  another  manner.     He  lays,  ***"*• Suid* 
that  a  King  of  Tenedos  having  by  an  exprefs  Law  condemn'd  Adulterers  to 
be  beheaded  by  a  Hatchet,  the  firft  Example  was  made  in  the  Perfon  of 
his  own  Son :  this  Geographer  affirms,  there  were  reprefented  on  the 
Medals  of  the  Ifland  the  Heads  of  the  two  Lovers  back  to  back,  and 
on  the  Reverie  the  Hatchet  with  which  they  were  executed.     Goltzius 
has  given  a  Type  of  a  like  Medal.     It  might  be  explain'd  according  to 
the  Remark  of  Stephens  •  but  the  Conjecture  of  M.  de  Boze,  perpetual  Diflert.  on  the 
Secretary  of  the  Academy  Royal  of  Infcriptions  and  of  Medals,  is  much  Amients. the 
happier,  and  perfectly  natural.     That  Academician,  whole  Learning  out- 
flrips  his  Years,  is  of  opinion  that  thefe  two  Heads  are  of  Tennes  and 
Hemitbea  his  Sifter  :  his  Thought  is  conflrm'd  by  another  Medal  of  the 
Cabinet  of  M.  Bwdelot,  on  which  thefe  two  Heads  (back  to  back)  have 
a  fort  of  Diadem  over  them. 

M.  BAVDELOT,  wTho  is  fruitful  in  ingenious  Conjectures,  thinks 

one  of  thefe  Heads  is  that  of  Jupiter,  and  the  other  that  of  an  Amazon, 

,who,  when  thofe  Heroines  ufed  to  make  Incurfions,  had  founded  fbme 

Town  in  Tenedos.     This  is  not  wide  of  Probability,  and  the  Inhabitants 

of  this  Ifland  were  perhaps  dcfirous  to  preferve  the  Remembrance  of  it 

Vol.  I.  Q_  q  on 


2?8 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant 


, 


on  their  Coins ;  as  did  thofe  of  Smyrna,  Ephefus,  and  many  other  Towns  of 
Afia.  The  Hatchet  on  the  Reverfe  makes  intirely  for  M.  Baudelofs  Opi- 
nion; for  every  body  looks  on  this  Inftrument  as  the  Symbol  of  the. 
Amazons.  Yec,  on  the  other  hand,  it  has  been  thought  this  was  the  In- 
ftrument ufed  by  the  People  of  Tenedos  in  their  Executions  of  Criminals,  i 
To  exprefs  an  unmerciful  Judge,  'twas  a  Saying,  according  to  Suidat  I 
Tmf)c(  fyvv-  Such  an  one  is  an  Advocate  of  Tenedos*  Hatchets  were  in  fo  great  ufe 
«Ss«7jw.  in  this  Ifland,  that  there  ufed  to  be  continually  behind  the  Judge  an  Offi- 
cer bearing  a  Hatchet,  and  ready  to  exercife  it  on  luch  as  bore  falfe  wit- 
nefs :  the  King  himfelf  would  lbmetimes  be  the  Executioner  of  this  vk 
vere  Juftice. 

NOTHING  has  renderM  this  Ifland  more  famous  in  Antiquity,  than 
Eft  in  con-  the  Siege  of  Troy.  Virgil  rightly  lays,  that  Tenedos  was  within  fight  of 
do*,  nmiffima  that  powerful  City,  and  fuppofes  that  the  Greeks  conceal'd  themfelves  in 
inoSa  dives  a  Port  of  tnis  Ifland,  when  they  made  as  if  they  quitted  the  Siege.  After 
opum,  Piiami  t^e  pau  0f  Troy,  its  Circumftances  were  fo  miferable,  they  were  fore'd  to 
manebant.  give  themfelves  up  to  their  Neighbours,  who  built  Alexandria  on  the  Ruins 
v,r&d..         o£Tr<y,  zsPaafanias  obferves. 

T  HIS  Ifland  was  one  of  the  nrft  Conquefts  of  the  Per  fans,  who  after 
the  Overthrow  of  the  lonians  at  the  Hie  of  Lada  right  againit  Miletus, 
Hevod.  lib.  6.  made  themfelves  mafters  of  Scior  Lesbos,  and  Tenedos.     It  was  reduced 
SST      ^>y  tne  Athenians,  or  at  leaft  took  party  with  them  againit  the  Laeedema-  . 
nians,  fince  Nicolochus,  who  ferv'd  under  Antalcidas,  Admiral  of  Lacedp\ 
mon,  ravaged  this  Ifland,  and  raifed  Contributions  on  it,  in  lpite  of  tfye 
Vigilance  of  the  Athenian  Generals  who  were  at  Samothrace  and  Thajfe.x 
This  perhaps  was  the  realbn  why  the  Tenedians  causM  to  be  graved  qd  ' 
their  Medals  an  Owl,  as  is  apparent  from  that  of  M.  Baudelot ;  the  Owl  , 
being  the  Device  of  the  Athenians. 

THE  Romans  enjoy'd  Tenedos  in  their  day,  and  the  Temple  of  thai  ,,, 

Town  was  plunder'd  by  Verres,  who  impioufly  did  the  fame  by  thole  o; 

Scio,  Erythrea,  Halicarnajfus,  and  Delos :  he  carry'd   away  the  Statue  oi 

cic.  pro  Lege  Tennes,  Founder  of  the  Town ;  which  threw  the  Inhabitants,  Cicero  lays 

pro  Arch.      into  the  greateft  Concern.     The  fame  Author  frequently  lpeaks  of  thai 

Poeta'  memorable  Battel  won  by  Lucullus  at  Tenedos  over  Mithridates,  and  the 

Captains  whom  Sertorius  had  brought  into  his  Army. 

TENE- 


» 


Defcrlption  of  the  Ijland  of  Tenedos.  299 

TEN E  DOS  fliared  the  fame  Fate  with  the  other  Iflands  under  the  Letter IX. 
Roman  Emperors,  and  under  the  Greek  Emperors.    The  Turks  laid  hands  ^-^^^"^J 
on't  betimes,  and  (till  have  it  in  poffefilon  :  it  was  taken  by  the  Venetians  Theven. 
in  1656,  after  the  Battel  of  the  Dardanelles ,  but  the  Turks  took  it  again  Voyas*  tom'u 
almoft  as  fbon. 

ST  R  A  BO  makes  this  Ifland  eighty  Stadia  about,  i.e.  ten  miles  :  it  is 
a  good  eighteen,  and  would  be  almoft  circular,  but  for  its  Elongation  to 
the  South-Eaft.     This  Author  determines  the  diftance  of  the  Terra-firma 
at  eleven  Stadia,  equivalent  to  1575  paces,  tho  they  reckon  about  fix 
miles.     Pliny  made  a  better  Judgment,  in  removing  it  twelve  miles  and 
a  half  from  the  antient  Sig&urn,  which  was  on  Cape  "Janizary :  the  diftance 
1  between  Lesbos  and  Tenedos  he  fettles  at  fifty  miles.     All  that  Strabo  fays 
'of  this  Ifland,  is,  that  it  had  one  Town,  two  Havens,  and  a  Temple 
dedicated  to  Smynthian  Apollo.     Who  would  think  this  Sirname  of  Apollo 
•  was  occafion'd  by  Mice  ?     And  yet  thefe  Vermin  were  reprefented  on  the 
;  Medals  of  the  Ifland ;  they  are  call'd  by  the  Cretans,  Trojans,  and  Eo- 
\lians,  2<uiv6of.     Elian  relates,  that  they  made  fuch  devaftation  in  the  Fields 
of  the  Trojans  and  Eolians,  they  were  obliged  to  confult  the  Oracle  of 
Delphos.    The  Anfwer  imported,  that  they  fhould  be  deliver'd  from  them, 
if  they  facrificed  to  Smynthian  Apollo.     We  have  two  Medals  of  Tenedos,  teneaos 
'  with  Mice  graved  on  'em ;  the  one  with  Apollo's  Head  irradiated,  and  a 
Field-Moufe  under  it ;  on  its  Reverie  is  a  two-edged  Hatchet :  the  other 
Medal  is  with  two  Heads,  back  to  back ;  the  Reverfe  is  the  fame  Hatchet 
1  erected,   and  beneath  it  two  Mice  are  placed.     Strabo  delivers,  that  a  2w^o<  a- 
Moufe  was  graved  at  the  foot  of  Apollo's  Statue  in  the  Temple  of  Chryfa,  r^gco*?  ' 
to  unfold  the  reafon  of  his  being  firnamed  Smynthian,  and  that  it  wasllb' I?" 
done  by  Scopas  the  famed  Sculptor  of  Paros. 

A  MERCHANT  of  Conjlantinofle,  who  was  on  board  our  Ship, 
told  us  there  were  no  Relicks  of  Antiquity  now  in  Tenedos  :  And  indeed 
all  its  Magnificence  fell  with  that  of  Troy.  For  our  parts,  we  had  no 
great  defire  to  hunt  after  the  Ruins  of  thofe  Granaries  Jnfiinian  built 
there,  for  a  Staple  or  Repofitory  of  Corn  brought  from  Alexandria  for  Con~ 
flantinople,  which  oftentimes  corrupted  by  being  kept  on  fhip-board  by 
contrary  Winds,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Dardanelles.  Thefe  Magazines,  Procop.  « 
Procopius  tells  us,  were  280  foot  long,  and  90  broad.     Their  Height  was  i^ f^!f£' 

Q.q  2  very 


300  A  Vo  y  A  g  e  into  the  Levant. 

very  confiderable,  and  confequently  mull;  have  been  extraordinary  flout 
Buildings.     We  admired  that  wife  Emperor's  Forecaft  ;  but  all  this  was  no 
Hift.  Nat.    ^  Spur  to  our  Curiofity,  any  more  than  the  Spring  which  in  Pliny's  time 
overflowed  its  Bafon  in  the  Summer  Solflice,  from  three  a-clock  after  mid- 
night till  fix.     A  much  greater  Attractive  with  us,  was  the  Mufcat  Wine  | 
of  this  Ifland,  the  mofl  delicious  of  all  the  Levant.     I  fhall  never  forgive 
the  Antients  omitting  to  make    the  Panegyrick  of  this  Liquor,    they 
who  affected  to  celebrate  the  Wines  of  Scio  and  Lesbos.    'Tis  no  excufe 
to  fay  the  Vine  was  not  at  that  time  planted  in  Tenedos ;  the  contrary 
may  eafily  be  proved,  by  the  Medal  of  Tenedos  in  the  Cabinet  of  M.  Batt- 
delot.    Thereon  is  reprefented,  on  the  fide  of  the  two-edged  Hatchet,  a 
Branch  of  a  Vine  charg'd  with  a  very  handfbm  Bunch  of  Grapes,  in 
token  of  this  Fruit's  abounding  in  the  faid  Ifland.     Our  Concern,  on  this, 
occafion,  was  fufficiently  alleviated  at  Conjlantinople,    by  Monfieur  the 
Marquifs  de  Ferriol  Ambaflador  of  France  there.     He  drinks  the  beft  Wine 
of  Tenedos,  and  keeps  the  beft  Table  in  all  the  Eafl,  even  from  Conftati 
tinople  to  China  or  Japan, 
jp  of  Moors,      w-  £  pafs'd  the   26th  of  March  very  near  the  Ifland  of  Rabbits,  or 
JJlands  of  Moors,  known  to  the  Antients  by  the  name  of  the  Calydnes ', 
thefe  Iflands  are  abandoned.     The  Sea  being  very  calm,  our  Ship  had 
little  or  no  motion  ;  fo  that  M.Jubriet  had  full  opportunity  to  draw,a| 
Plan  of  Tenedos :  To  it  I  fhall  add  a  very  exact  Draught  of  the  whole 
Ifland,  communicated  to  me  fince  my  Return. 

YOUR  Lordfhip  will  permit  me,  before  I  leave  the  Archipelago,  to 
give  you  an  account  of  what  I  learnt  at  Mycone  concerning  the  Ifland  of 
Nicaria,  from  a  Papas  of  that  Country,  who  pretended  to  be  of  the  Fa- 
mily of  the  Paleologi,  tho  he  had  not  a  Shoe  to  his  Foot,  and  was  forc'd 
to  flit  Deal-Boards  for  a  Livelihood.  We  attempted  twice  to  pafs  over 
to  Nicaria,  but  were  repuls'd  by  the  Weather. 

NlCARIA. 

ij»ef*  >y  \w      THIS  Ifland  is  fixty  miles  about,  and  extends  from  the  Point  call'd 
■whence  Nica-  Papa,  looking  towards  Mycone,  as  far  as  to  the  Point  of  '  Fanar,  over 

*  Ajw«7if'<yoK    againft  Cape  *  Catabate  in  the  Ifle  of  Samos.    Strabo  gives  to  Nicaria  but 
sfib^'"'      3°°  Stadia  of  Circumference,  which  is  no  more  than  $7  miles  and  a  half. 

•  k^antiov  He  determines  the  diftance  of  thefe  two  Capes  at  eighty  Stadia,  which 

KapScteioir.  . 

itrab.  W 


ai 
c 

d 
K 
I 
tl 

lit 
o 

I 


iDefcription  of  the  IJland  of  Nicaria.  goi 

is  but  ten  miles :  and  yet  the  Grand  Bougas,  or  the  Canal  which  is  be-  Letter  IXv 
tween  Samos  and  Nicaria,  is  1 8  miles  over.  ^-/~v^v-* 

NICARIA  is  very  narrow,  and  crofs'd  quite  through  by  a  Chain  ofAn:ea  vocata 
fharp-rais'd  Mountains ;  for  which  reafon  it  formerly  was  eall'd  the  long  C1is.  piin.lbid, 
narrow  Ifland.     Thcfe  Mountains  are  cover'd  with  Wood,  and  fupply  the 
whole  Country  with  Springs.  The  Inhabitants  have  no  other  Trade  to  live 
by,  but  the  Sale  of  Planks  of  Pine,  Oak,  and  Timber  for  building  or  burning, 
which  they  carry  to  Scio  or  to  Scalanova .-  and  indeed  the  Nicarians  are  lo 
very  poor,  that  they  beg  Peoples  Charity  as  foon  as  ever  they're  out  of 
their  own  Ifland  ;  yet  'tis  intirely  their  own  fault,  for  not  improving  their 
Lands  as  they  ought.     They  gather  little  Wheat,  but  a  good  deal  of 
Barley,  Figs,  Honey,  Wax:  but  after  all,  they're  a  parcel  of  Sots,  Churls,, 
and  Demi-Savages.     They  make  their  Bread  in  proportion  to  what  they 
mean  to  eat  for  Diuner  or  Supper.     This  Bread  is  nothing  but  Buns  with- 
out Leven,  which  they  half-bake  on  a  flat  Stone  heated  very  hot :  if  the. 
Miftrefs  of  the  Houfe  be  big  with  child,  flie  has  a  double  Portion  of 
thefe  Buns,  one  for  herfelf,  and  another  for  her  Child  ;  the  fame  Civility 
is  paid  to  Strangers. 

THIS  Ifland  was  never  well  peopled.     Strabo  mentions  it  as  an  un- 
cultivated  Country,  whole  Paftures  were  of  great  ufe  to  the  Samians. 
'Tis  thought,  at  prefent  there  are  not  above  iooo  Souls  in  it:  the  two 
principal  Towns  have  about  ioo  Houfes  each ;  one  is  cali'd  Majferia,  and  Ma^eta. 
the  other  Peramare.     The  Villages  are  Aratafa,  where  there  are  but  four  a&T*Z~J 
Houfes,  which  is  a  great  many  ;  for  at  Ploumara  they  have  but  three,  two  j^W' 
at  Nea,  four  at  Perdikis  near  Fanar,  five  at  Oxo,  feven  at  Langada,     They  r%JW. 
call  a  Village,  in  this  Ifland,  any  place  that  has  above  one  Houfe  in  it.      a*£«a. 

Nl  CA  R I A  has  not  chang'd  its  Name ;  it  is  cali'd  Icaria,  juft  as  in 
days  of  yore  :  but  the  Franks,  who  don't  underfland  Greek,  corrupt  moil 
Names.     Every  one  knows  that  this  Name  is  afcribed  to  hat  -us  Son  of  leans,  qua 
Dedal&sx  who  was  drown'd  hereabouts  in  the  Sea,  whence  'twas  named  dedir.  pfo,. 
the  Icarian  Sea.     Strabo  takes  Leros  and  Cos  into  this  Sea.     Pliny  makes  ff^p'^'^' 
its  Extent  only  from  Samos  to  Mycone.     M.  Bochart  alone  derives  the  Name  ich«hyoei& 
of  haria  from  the  Phenkian   word  Icaure,  which   fignifies  full  of  Fijb  ;      ' 
which  however  is  not  very  different  from  the  Greek  the  Antients  cali'd  lyji-JUem, 
the  fame  Ifland  by.     Be  it  as  it  will,  the  Fable  of  Icarus  is  very  prettily  Step  * 

%  explain'd 


302  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

iiift.  Kit.  explain'd  by  Pliny,  who  attributes  the  Invention  of  Ship-Sails  to  Icarus 
Baeotic.C3P '  '  FM[anias  will  have  it  to  be  Dedaltu :  but  take  it  which  way  you  will,  in 
all  appearance  the  Wings  which  the  Fable  gives  harm  to  make  his  efcape 
into  Crete,  were  no  other  than  the  Sails  of  the  Ship  that  carry'd  him  to 
the  Ifland  we  are  fpeaking  of,  and  where  he  fufFer'd  ihipwreck  for  want  of 
knowing  how  to  work  the  Sails. 

ALL  the  Inhabitants  of  Nicaria  are  of  the  Greek  Communion,  and 
'tis  faid  their  Language  comes  nearer  the  old  Greek  than  that  of  the  other 
Iilands,  where  Commerce  has  occafion'd  the  Settlement  of  many  Strangers 
who  have  introduced  infinite  numbers  of  Words  and  Terminations  of 
their  refpe&ive  Countries.     'Tis  highly  probable,  this  Ifland  has  foliow'd 
the  deftiny  of  that  of  Santos,  its  Neighbour  and  Miftrefs.     The  Ifle  of 
Nicaria  is  no  where  fpoken  of  in  the  Relations  of  any  War,  but  that  be- 
H'ft0f  I*      tW€en  Baldwin  II.  Emperor  of  Conftantinople,  and  Vatace  Son-in-Law  of 
of  conft.  1. 4.  Iheodorm  Lafcaris :  for  the  Fleet  of  Vatace  took  in  1 247  the  Ifles  of  Afc. 
gor^uic!^  telin,  Scio,  Santos,  Icaria,  and  Cos,  as  we  learn  from  Gregoras. 

THE  Nicarians  acknowledge  the  Biihop  of  Samos  in  Spirituals.     He 
has  a  Protopapas  there,  under  whom  there  are  twenty  four  Papas   who 
have  the  care  of  feveral  Chappels.     There's  but  one  Monaftery,  call'd 
'AyUbirti*'  St.Lesbia,  whofe  Body  they  have,  as  they  believe:  but  this  Monaftery 
abounds  with  Monks  all  one  as  the  Villages  do  with  Inhabitants-  for 
there's  but  one  Angle  Caloyer  belonging  to  it, 
THE  Ifland  wants  Ports,  as  Strabo  has  obferv'd.     One  of  the  -prin- 
•bttLvjtsw.      ,cipal  Calanques  is  at  Fanar,  where  was  the  antient  Town  Dracanon.     The 
K*f*e«5«.     otner  looks  to  Scio,  and  is  call'd  Caraboujtas,  that  is,  the  Calanque  or  the 
jEnot,  strah.  Port.     The  Ruins  of  the  Town  of  JEnoe  are  hard  by,  in  a  place  call'd 
rh  bfan  •  dimply  the  Field,  or  the  Field  of  Rujhes.     Here  feems  to  be  the  place 
tl  KttK&i+i-     where  the  Miletians  brought  a  Colony  :  and  as  Caraboujtas  is  the  belt  Port 
GeoS.  of  the  Country,  there's  ground  to  believe  'tis  this  that  was  call'd  I  fit  at 

Isw.  strab.  tnat  time>  xhe  good  Ports  of  thefe  Quarters  are  in  the  Ifles  of  Fourni 
which  have  borrow'd  their  Names  from  their  Figure  ;  for  they  are  natu- 
rally hollo w'd  in  the  Rocks  like  the  Roofs  of  Ovens.  Thefe  Iflands  are 
equally  diftant  from  Nicaria  and  Samos  to  the  Leeward,  and  confequently 
more  Southern.    There's  nothing  to  be  feen  but  Wild-Goats. 

STRABO 


jDefcr "iption  of  the  Ifland  of  Nicaria.  003 

STRJBO  affirms,  there  was  in  Nicaria  a  Temple  of  Diana,  call'd  Letter  IX. 
Tauropolium ;  and  Callimachus  made  no  fcruple  to  fay  that  of  all  Iflands  this  ^v7vC^v-> 
was  the  mod  delighted  in  by  Diana.    Goltzius  has  given  the  Type  of  a  Me-  -riyufKi^t 
dal,  reprefenting  on  one  fide  a  Huntrefs  Diana,  and  on  the  other  a  Perfon  on  t£S&uw 
a  Bull,  which  may  be  taken  for  Europa  ;  but,    according  to  the  Conjecture  &rj/N""5h 
of  Nonim,  it  is  rather  the  fame  Diana,  the  Bull  denoting  the  Luxuriance  ikapIqn* 
of  the  Paftures  of  the  Ifland,  and  the  Protection  of  that  Goddefs.     This 
Medal  was  (truck  in  the  Ifland  we  are  fpeaking  of,  and  not  in  another 
Ifland  of  the  fame  name  in  the  Sinus  Perficus.     Dionyfius  Alexandrinus  ad-  Verf.6o8,  &<-r 
vances,  that  they  ufed  to  offer  Sacrifice  in  this  latter  to  Apollo  Tauropolti* 
Eujlathius,  his  Commentator,  fays  no  more  than  that  it  was  a  very  fa- 
mous Ifland ;  but  he  adds,  that  they  likewrfe  paid  great  Veneration  to 
Apollo  and   Diana  Tauropoles  in  the  Ifland  of  Jcaria  of  the  Egean  Sea  : 
whence  we- muft  conclude^  that  thefe  Deities  were  the  ObjecT:  of  Worfhip 
among  the  Inhabitants  of  thefe  two  Iflands.     Tauropolis  in  this  place  fig- 
nifies  a  Protector  of  Bulls;  and  not  a  Merchant,  as  one  would  think  by 
the  name.    'Twould  be  tedious  to  relate  the  Sentiments  of  the  antient 
Authors  concerning  this  Name  ■;  we  muft  abide  by  that  of  Suidas :  it  is 
fufficient  to  obferve,  that  Diana  Tauropolu  was  not  only  honour'd  in  the 
Iflands  of  Jcaria,  but  alio  in  that  of  Andros,  and  at  Amphipolu  in  Thrace, 
as  we  learn  from  Lity.     We  mud  not  confound  the  Name  of  Tauropolis  Lib.  44. 
with  that  of  Taurobolis, which  likewife  belong'd  to  Diana.     The  Tauro- 
bolii  properly  was  a  Sacrifice  altogether  Angular,  which  Prudentius  has 
very  well  defcribed,   and  has  fince  been  molt  learnedly  explain'd  by 
M.  de  Boze. 

THE  Fanar  or  Fanari  of  Nicaria  is  an  old  Tower,  which  ufed  to  ferve  $rfvJ?w>  tant- 
for  a  Light-houfe  to  direct  Shipping  between  this  Ifland  and  Samos ;  for  this  bh"',"^  Light~ 
Canal  is  dangerous  when  the  Sea  runs  high,  tho  'tis  eighteen  miles  over. 
That  of  Nicaria  at  Mycone  is  near  forty  miles,  and  from  one  Port  to  the 
other  above  fixty.  Meflieurs  Fermanel  and  Thevenot  were  miftaken  in 
fpeaking  of  Nicaria  :  they  took  it  for  Niffaro,  where  are  the  famoufeft 
Divers  of  all  the  Archipelago.  The  Inhabitants  of  Nicaria  are  wretched- 
ly poor,  and  have  nothing  to  do  but  to  cut  Wood :  they  are  without 
either  Cadi  or  Turk ;  all  their  Affairs  are  managed  by  a  couple  of  Ad- 
miniflrators,  who  are  chofe  annually.    In  1700,  they  paid  525  Crowns 

*  to 


3°4 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

to  the  Capitation,  and  130  Crowns  to  the  Cuftomer  of  Scio  for  the  Land- 
Tax,  and  more  particularly  to  have  the  liberty  to  go  fell  their  Wood  out 
of  the  Ifland.  They  ufe  nothing  but  Hand-mills,  fetch'd  from  Milo  or 
Argentiere  ;  but  the  Milo  Stones  are  the  bell:.  Thefe  Mills  confift  of  two 
flat  round  Stones,  about  two  foot  diameter,  which  they  rub  one  on  ano- 
ther by  means  of  a  Stick,  which  does  the  office  of  a  Handle.  The  Corn 
falls  down  on  the  undermoft  Stone,  through  a  hole  which  is  in  the  middle 
of  the  uppermoft,  which  by  its  circular  motion  fpreads  it  on  the  under- 
moft, where  it  is  bruifed  and  reduced  to  Flower :  which  Flower  working 
out  at  the  rim  of  the  Mill-ftones,  lights  on  a  Board,  fet  on  purpofe  to  re- 
ceive it.  The  Bread  made  hereof  is  better-tailed  than  that  of  Flower 
ground  either  by  Wind  or  Water-mills :  thefe  Hand-mills  coft  not  above 
a  Crown,  or  a  Crown  and  a  half. 

I  am,  &c. 


■ 


■ 

LET* 

1- 


I 


n.Jiutns  ofJunoir^i/ryt/Af  ■ 

jjttu/is  of '{isii+l/ur  ansi&U- 'Jlmsn  . 
/; .  //h/su/t-  or  Sa/>i/i/i?ri!f  /TZeiuUzu/i  . 
o.Jiui/u  of'un  an£4£*ir  "C^/f/i 

j.Jiu//ts  ty~asi  afLceetiff-Ihfi/n. .' 

S.  7/ltisi<t.  li&r&a&cNiwidiov  Na£OruGLj  Jtm£: 

g.^7t'  /2ys  tj\\<yv/ruu:  .Awpomqc^i: 
-ri-i-r  n  fort  Jet.' 

lo   Wo&etdioi' 


-^PiH 


S^jjtfos 


In 


(3°5) 


LETTER    X. 

To  Monfeigneur  the  Count  de  Pontchartrain^ 
Secretary  of  State,  &c. 

My  LorpJ 

O  T  to  break  the  Defcription  of  the  Arcbipelagot  I  mall  here  Defection  of 
entertain  you  with  an  Account  of  Samosy  Patmosy  and  Skyros  ;  sarnot"rat-^ 
tho  we  law  them  not  till  out  Return  from  Anatoli  a.  mof»  }™™\ 

and  Skyros. 

WE  let  out  from  !  Scalanova  far  Samos  the  25th  of  January)  ■  NsaW«  » 
1702,  on  a  Tartane  of  Captain  Duboisy  who  was  picking  up  Turkijb  Pil-  ft^-q"  & 
grims,  on  the  Co  alls  o£AJiay  to  conduct  'em  to  Ale  xandria.     Thefe  PU-$s«f<iW. 
grims  are  call'd  y^gxr,  and  go  from  Alexandria,  to  Mecha.     The  Opportu- Geog.  lib.  14. 
j'nity  was  favourable,  in  fecuring  us  againft  the  Banditti,  who  lurk  in  the 
S1  Boshas  of  Samos.    Thefe  Boghas  are  the  Straits  at  the  two  Points  0f,^»«^.c*i 

•  b  O  nals,  Straits, 

the  Ifland.     The  little  Boghas  is  at  the  Eaft-South-Eaft,  and  its  Mouth  Bogazi,  in 
)  ooks  to  the  South.     Strabo  allows  it  to  be  but '  875  paces  broad,  tho  'tis  in  ,  5l..,w'Stad;a; 
eality  above  1000,  and  in  length  3000.     It  parts  the  Ifle  oi Samos  from 
he  Terra-fir  ma  ofAfia:  this4  Strait  is  fhut  in,  according  to  the  fame  Au-  42*>;n8f9- 
.hor,  between  the s  Cape  of  Neptune  and  the  Mountain  of4  Mjcale,  which  S^."" 

I;  iuft  over  aeainft  it  in  Jfia.     This  Mountain,  the  higheft  thereabouts,  f'f  • '*'* 
nd  forky  at  top,  is  to  this  very  day  in  the  iame  lute  Strabo  delcnbes  it ;  jw.  strafe, 
amely,  a  very  fine  Country  for  Hunting,  well  wooded,   and  full  of^«^^. 
i»eer  ;  'tiscall'd  the  Mountain  of  Sam  [on.  becaufe  of  a  Village  of  the  fame  w  ^&J^»- 
.  une,  not  far  off,  and  which  in  all  appearance  was  built  on  the  Ruins  ibid, 
'the  antient  Town  of  Priene,  where  Bias  one  of  the  feven  Wife-men  oinatmh.  Syab. 
reece  had  his  birth.     The  Robbers  that  haunt  thefe  parts  in  troops,  did 
Vol.  I.  R  r  not 


306  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

not  permit  us  to  get  a  nearer  infight  into  this  matter,  nor  likewife  whether 
the  Village  of  Tcbangli  ftands  in  the  fame  place  where  was  the  famous 
Hu'^A  ^aniontumt  where  aflembled  the  Deputies  of  the  twelve  Towns  of  IonUt 
Mvvfhnt  '/*■  among  which  Samos  held  a  confiderable  rank :  in  this  Sacred  Place  the 


110V    «S7    7« 

iieiod.  lib.  i.  moft  weighty  Affairs  were  wont  to  be  regulated,  after  (acrificing  to  Nep- 
Strab.  lib.  8.  tune^  fciungli  is  between  Samos  and  Scalanova,  to  the  North  of  Mycaley 
m\K.  exaclly  in  the  Pofition  Strabo  affigns  to  Panionium,    There  wants  only 

an  Infcription  to  authorize  this  Point; 
Ww/Aar «  i  pg  tne  middle  of  this  Strait  towards  its  Southern  Mouth  on  a  Rock, 
s«tab.  Rer.  is  erecled  an  antient  Chappel ;  and  the  little  Ifland  which  the  Antients  call 
eog.  i  .14.  jyartecjs  js  place<j  between  this  Rock  and  the  Ifle  of  Samos.  N Art  ecu 
UmtJ&m*  helps  to  determine  the  Situation  of  Neptune's  Cape,  which  took  its  name 
^^W/wii  from  a  Temple  dedicated  to  that  God.  The  King  has  a  Medal  of  Com- 
j2^'J  modus,  the  Reverfe  whereof  reprefents  Neptune  and  Jupiter  ;  the  Legend: 
GAMinN.  is  of  the  Samians. 

■  A4.ubecb..     TH  E  grand  Boghas  is  to  the '  South-Weft  of  the  Ifland,  between  the 

Stab,  lib.'  14.  Weftern  Point,  call'd  the  '  Cape  of  Samos,  and  the  grand  Ifle  of  Eourni. 

This  Strait  is  eight  miles  broad,  and  not  above  ten  miles  diftance  from. 

Nicaria :  accordingly  they  reckon  eighteen  miles  from  Stmos  to  Nicaria% 

from  Cape  to  Cape.     AH  the  Ships  coming  down  from  Confiantinople    ^ 

into  Syria  and  Egypt,  after  refting  at  Scio,  are  obliged  to  pais  through  one   j,, 

of  thefe  Straits.    The  fame  mult  they  do,  that  go  up  from  Egypt  to  Coif'   p]r 

ftantinople.     Here  they  meet  with  good  Harbours,  and  it  would  be  too-  ^ 

long  a  Courfe  for  'em  to  pafs  towards  Mycone  and  Naxia :  fb  that  thefe  ^ 

Boghas  are  very  proper  places  for  the  Corfairs  to  fpy  what  Ships  pafs  to  u 

and  fro.  ^ 

T  H  O  the  Paffage  from  Scalanova  to  Samos  is  but  twenty  five  mile$r    y 

we  were  obliged,  by  reafbn  of  a  Calm,  to  put  in  behind  a  finall  Rock  ,j„ 

H&totn**      call'd  Prafoniji,  very  near  the  little  Boghas.     We  went  afhore  next  day,  y 

the  30th  of  January,  and  in  two  hours  and  a  half  got  to  Vati,  a  Village 

in  the  North  of  the  Ifland  on  the  defcent  of  a  Mountain,  within  a  mile  of 

the  Port.     There  are  fcarce  more  than  500  Houfes  in  tin's  Village,  witb)fJ(. , 

five  or  fix  Chappels ;  but  both  the  one  and  the  other  are  fcurvily  builty  tho;  \  , 

this  is  one  of  the  moft  confiderable  Places  of  the  IflancL  j  u|fa, 

THE 


K 


Defer iption  of  the  Ifland  of  Samos.  307 

THE  Villages  of  the  Southern  Coaft  are  Cora,  which  in  vulgar  Greet  Letter  X, 
fignifies  the  City,  and  yet  it  fcarce  contains  600  Houfes,  and  i  moll  of^^T^- 
'em  empty  ever  fince  the  Country  was  ravaged  by  Morofni,  General  of  the 
Venetian  Army.  Cora  is  two  miles  from  the  Sea,  adjoining  to  the  Ruins 
of  the  antient  Town  of  Samos.  Its  Air  is  at  this  time  unwholefome,  be- 
caufe  of  the  Waters  ftagnating  in  the  Plain,  which  formerly  empty'd 
themfelves  in  the  Sea ;  yet  is  the  Country  fruitful  and  plealant  to  the  Eye. 
Within  a  league  of  Cora  is  a  fmall  Village  call'd  Miles,  or  the  Mills ;  next  M,A"f'  . 

&  111  BtwovJk, 

comes  Bavonda,  four  miles  from  the  Sea :  the  other  Villages  to  the  South,  Nai^e^. 
are  Neocorio,  two  miles  from  the  Coaft  ;  Gueitani,  three  miles  ;  Maratro-  Ma^aims. 
camp,  the  like  diftance ;  Eforeo,  five  miles  ;  Spatarei,  on  Cape  Coloune  ;  ^  ^ 
Sureca  is  hard  by.     Paleocafiro  is  two  miles  from  the  Sea,  North;  Vour~^m-^^' 
totes,  the  like;  Fourni,  three  miles;  Carlovaffi,  one  mile  ;  and  Caflania  is  x\<ausi^t^t. 
at  the  foot  of  the  Mountain  Catabate,  as  is  alfo  Albaniticorio.     We  muft  k2a^. 
add  to  thefe  Villages,  Platano,  the  handfomeft  of  'em  all ;  Pyreos  and  Co-  Ka^via- 
marea,  w  hich  are  about  the  middle  of  the  Ifland.     This  Ifland  is  full  of  e/o. 
Eminences  and  Precipices,  whence  it  had  its  Name ;  for,  according  to  n^- 
Conjlantine  Porphjrogenetes,  the  antient  Greeks  uled  to  give  the  Name  of  KoW~*' 
'Samos  to  foch  places  as  were  very  high.     There's  nothing  agreeable  in 
this  Ifland  but  the  Plain  of  Cora.     The  great  Chain  of  Mountains  crofting 
Samos  from  one  end  to  t'other,  was  ufed  to  be  call'd  Ampelos.     Its  Weflern  Kuv^emv. 
Part,  which  dips  into  the  Sea  towards  Nicaria,  retain'd  the  fame  Name ;  k  tT'L*  "/4" 
was  alfo  call'd  Cantharium  and  Cercetetts.     'Tis  this  terrible  Rock  that  ?***"*£• 

Stiab.  lib.  10. 

makes  the  Cape  of  Samos.     The  Greeks  have  preferv'd  to  it  the  Name  of  Kt-mGd-m, 
'Kjrki,  which  founds  fomewhat  like  Cercetem.     They  alfo  call  it  Catabate,  *„%)"'!. 
[  which  fignifies  a  Precipice.  dc*™ifdo''** 

WHILE  Greece  was  in  its  fplendour,  this  Ifland  was  very  populous  0r ilfi  thls 
md  well-manured.     At  top  of  the  Mountains  are  flill  to  be  feen  Rows  of ' ouafion'dfrom 
iValls  for  bounding  the  Lands.    I  don't  think  there  are  at  prefent  in  Samos  fir"^",!, 
.bove  1 2000  Men,  all  of  the  Greek  Church.     There  are  not  above  three  V"tndV,: 

KcLTet£a.7tif 

ramilies  of  Turks  ;  that  of  the  Cadi,  that  of  the  Aga,  who  live  both  at  tieit,  ^ri 
"or a  ;  and  that  of  the  Aga's  Subdelegate,  who  reftdes  at  Carlovaffi,  or  at  %L$%It, 
ratt,  the  Manfion  of  the  Vice-Conful  of  Prance.  The  Aga  is  properly  Ji^t*" 
nly  a  Waivod,  fent  to  colledt  the  Land-Tax.  ™us  Legat.  ad 

Julian.  Paufar.. 
Eliac.  prior. 

Rr  2  ONCEPharnutu^f 


qo8 


A  Vo  y  A  g  e  into  the  Levant; 


Tovij cogna-       ONCE  a  year  they  chufe  an  Adminiftrator  or  two  in  each  Village,. 

minibus,  ffeak  J  \ '      -  .  ,  . 

«/ Jupiter,  k*-  except  Cora,  Vati,  and  Carlovafp,  where  they  elect  two  Papas  and  four 

TtSt™?*1"  Burghers,   in  cafe  there  be  fo  many :   otherwife,  they  take  Matters  of 

Thunder.       Caicks,   or   Labourers.     The  Papas   themfelves  are  nothing  but  Pea- 

fants  advanced  to  Orders,  without  any  other  Merit  but  that  of  laying 

Mafs  by  heart.     There  are  above  200  of  'em,  and  the  number  of  Ca- 

loyers  is  dill  greater;  fb  that  the  Ifland  is  governed  by  Churchmen, 

n*!'*?*  i*-    who  pofTefs  feven  Monafteries,  namely,  Our  Lady  of  the  Girdle,  Our  Lady 

n&UyMtep-of  the  Thunder,  Our  Lady  the  Great,  St.  Elijah,  the  Convent  of  the  Crofs, 

Ito^dc  St.  George,  and  St.  John. 

C**  „,  THERE  are  four  Nunneries  in  Santos  •  one  at  St.  Elijah,  another  near 

2t*y£«.  Our  Lady  the  Great,  a  third  at  Bavonda,  and  the  lafl  at  the  Monaftery  of 
Zy.u  icdtm.  the  Crofs  :  we  were  furthermore  told,  there  were  above  300  private 
"■*«■■       Chappels. 

THE  Biihop  of  this  Ifland,  who  is  alfo  Bifliop  of  Nicaria,  refides  at 
Cora,  and  enjoys  about  2000  Crowns  annual  Income.  Befides  which,  he 
draws  a  confiderable  Revenue  by  blefling  the  Waters  and  the  Cattel, 
which  Ceremony  is  perform'd  the  beginning  of  May.  All  the  Milk- 
meats  and  all  the  Cheefe  that  are  made  that  day,  belong  to  the  Bifliop: 
he  has  likewife  two  Beafts  out  of  every  Herd. 

THE  Samians  live  at  their  eafe,  and  are  not  tyranniz'd  over  by  the 

Turks.    The  Ifland  is  rated  at   1290  Billets  to  the  Capitation,    at  five 

Crowns  a  Billet ;  which  comes  106450  Crowns.     The  Aga,  who  puts  his 

Seal  on  every  Billet,  exacts  likewife  one  Crown ;  and  the  Papas,  who  will 

be  meddling  in  every  thing,  and  who  fettle  the  Allotment  of  the  Billets, 

xw«  Twins,  claim  ten  Pence  each  Billet,  fo  that  the  private  Men  pay  fix  Crowns 

ten  Pence,     The  Ouflorns  of  the  Ifland  are  farm'd  but  at  10000  Crowns: 

'tis  thought  the  Aga  who  levies  the  Duties,  gets  full  as  much.     Whenever 

a  Greek  dies  without  Male  Iflue,  the  Aga  is  Heir  to  all  his  arable  Lands: 

the  Vineyards,  the  Olive-Plantations,    and  tire   Gardens  belong,  to  the 

Daughters,  and  his  Relations  may  have  the  Refufal  when  the  Lands  are 

to  be  fold.     The  Aga's  Silk  pays  4  per  Cent.  Cuftom :  the  Aga  has  great 

Perquifites  out  of  this  Commodity. 

THE  Women  of  this  Ifland  are  very  nafty  and  ugly,  and  don't  fhift 
above  once  a  month.    Their  Habit  is  a  Veil;  after  the  TurktfJj  manner,  with 


?g/-i- 


Fap-^oS- 


cf/orris/i  '&f 'Jhsnv&. 


i?S 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Samos.  309 

a  red  Coif,  and  a  Taflel  yellow  or  white,  which  hangs  down  their  back,  Letter  X. 
as  does  their  Hair,  which  rnofl  commonly  they  part  into  a  couple  of  ^f^f^-* 
TrelTes,  at  the  bottom  whereof  hangs  a  Bunch  of  fmall  Plates  of  Block- 
Tin  or  Silver  of  a  coarfe  Alloy,  for  they  have  fcarce  any  other  in  this 
Country. 

THE  Land-Tax  here  is  about  12000  Crowns.     A  Tenth  is  likewife 
paid  out  of  all  forts  of  Grain  and  Fruit,  without  excepting  the  very 
Onions  and  Gourds  :  they  have  abundance  of  Melons,  Lentiles,  French- 
Beans,  &c.     The  Mufcadine  Grapes  are  the  belt  and  beautifullefl  Fruit  of  . 
the  Ifland  :  when  they  are  ripe,  the  Vineyards  are  crouded  with  People, 
every  body  eats  his  fill,  and  picks  and  chufes  where  he  thinks  fit.     Good 
Wine  might  be  made  of 'em,  if  they  knew  how  to  make  it,,  and  put  it 
into  wooden  Casks ;   but  the  Greeks  are  extremely  nafty,  and  befides, 
they  can't  forbear  mixing  Water  with  it :  yet  have  I  drank  excellent 
Mufcadine  Wine  at  Samos,  which  had  been  carefully  made  for  the  account- 
of  our  Smyrna  Merchants.     They  gather  about  3000  Barrels  of  Mufca*- 
dine  at  Samos.     Each  Barrel  weighs  1 58  Pounds  4  Ounces  ;  and  a  Load  of  fifiy.  °v>'T>. 
this  Wine,  which  is  a  Barrel  and  a  half,  fells  on  the  fpot,from  4  to  7  Liyres 
io  Sous ;  that  of  red  Wine  is  worth  but  4  Livres,  or  ico  Sous  :  this  is  a 
deep-colour'd  Wine,  and  would  be  good,  if  it  were  not  mix'd  with  Water  j 
'tis  carry'd  to  Scio,  Rhodes,  and  Napoli  di  Romania.     The  Greeks  pay 
4  or  5  per  Cent,  for  exporting  this  Wine,  or  more,  jufl  as  the  Cuftom- 
houfe  Officers  pleafe  :  the  French  pay  but  half  as  much.     No  Duty  is  paid 
to  the  Grand  Signior  ;  but  every  '  Piece  of  a  Vineyard  that  has  fifty  paces  ;  Er^wx, 
in  length,  and  twenty  in  breadth,  pays  him  '  forty  Sous  per  ann.  >  An  folate. 

THE  Import  on  Oil  is  after  the  rate  of  1  o  per  Cent*    The  Greeks  for 
the  Export  of  this  Commodity  pay  4  per  Cent,  and  the.  French  1  per  Cent*    . 
but  the  whole  feldom  exceeds  8  or  900  Barrels,  each  weighing  as  much  as 
the  Barrels  of  Wine,  /'.  e.  158  Pound.     They'll  fell  you  1139  Pound  for 
a  Crown. 

THEY  every  year  lade  three  Barks  with  Wheat  for  France.  Each 
Bark  contains  8  or  90b  Mealiires,  that  is,  60000  or  675,00  pound  weight,, 
for  each  Meafure  is  7  5  pound.  It  is  eall'd  a  Quilot ;  the  Quilot  is  three 
Panaches,  each  Panache  is  8  Oques,  and  the  Oqucs  are  25  pound.  Be- 
fides the  common  Grain,  they  fow  in  Samos  a  great  deal  of  large  white 

Miller, 


31  o  A  Voyage  Into  the  Levant. 

Milium  arun-  Millet,  which  they  call  Cbicri.  The  poorer  fort,  in  making  their  Bread, 
no  aiboque  fe-  mix  half  Wheat  and  half  Barley  and  white  Millet.  Some  mix  only  Mil- 
jnme.  c,  b.    ^  aud  Barley,  of  both  which  they  have  great  plenty  in  this  Ifland. 

WHAT  Figs  they  dry,  are  only  for  their  own  ufe :  they  are  very 
white,  and  three  or  four  times  as  big  as  thole  of  Marfeilles,  but  not  of 
fb  delicate  a  tafte :  Caprifi  cation  is  not  pra&is'd  in  this  Ifland,  and  there. 
fore  the  Fig-Trees  are  lefs  fruitful  here  than  elfewhere.  We  thought  their 
Cheefe  none  of  the  befl ;  they  put  'em  new  into  Leathern  Veffels  with 
Salt-water,  and  let  'em  drain  and  dry  at  leifure :  the  cuftom  is  to  fend  once 
a  year  three  Bark-load  of  it  to  France;  ioo  pound  weight  cofts  but  two 
Crowns,  or  a  Sequin. 

THE  Pine-Trees,  in  the  North  of  the  Ifland,  yield  about  500  or  400 

Quintals  of  Pitch :  'tis  worth  a  Crown  a  Quintal,  and  pays  4  per  Cent. 

Kihivt  £  bj-  Cuftom.     Velanides  is  another  Commodity  this  Ifland  exports  to  Venice, 

and  Ancona ;  'tis  that  fort  of  Acorn  which  the  Tanners  ufe  when  reduced 

to  Powder,  and  of  which  I  have  given  a  defcription  already.     Santos  was 

Afu«*fe  steph.  antiently  call'd  the  I/land  of  Oaks,  upon  occafion  of  the  vafl  numbers  of  j 

Oaks  it  produced. 
18 or  20  n.       THE  Silk  of  this  Ifland  is  very  fine;  'tis  worth  4  livres  10  fols,  or 
pound.         1 00  fols  a  pound;  this  Traffick  one  year  with  another  may  be  rated  at 
twenty  or  twenty  'five  thouland  Crowns.    Their  Honey  and  Wax  are  ad- 
mirable :  fifty  pound  weight  of  Honey  fells  for  a  Crown,  but  their  Wax 
is  worth  nine  or  ten  Sous  a  pound.     They  gather  no  lefs  than  200  Quin- 
tals of  Honey  ;  but  of  Wax,  fcarce  100  :  the  Quintal  weighs  140  pound, 
as  it  does  in  all  the  other  patrs  of  Turkey. 
v.&yjj.*™  k,       THE  Scammony  of  Santos  is  not  over-good :  it  is  of  a  red  colour 
hard,  tough,  and  confequently  not  eafy  to  break.     It  not  only  purges 
with  violence,  but  oftentimes  occafions  Gripings  of  the  Bowels,   and 
very  uneafy  Super-purgations :  we  did  not  fee  the  Plant  it  comes  from 
becaufe  it  flioots  not  before  the  end  of  March  or  beginning  of  April.    They 
convolvulus    fliew'd  us  for  the  Plant  of  Scammony,  the  youno  Stalks  of  a  fort  of 
fis.  c.  b.      Bind-wccd,  whole  Leaves  are  not  unlike  thole  of  our  little  Bind-weed 
but  that  they  are  larger,  hairy,  flafh'd  at  their  Bafis  not  fo  prettily  as 
thofe  of  the  Syrian  Scammony.     The  Scammony  of  Santos  anfwers  per- 
fectly well  to  Diofcorides^s,  Defcription  of  it ;  it  grows  in  the  Plains  of 

Mjfa 


lla/jM 


377  «• 


yz>Lx. 


Ta^.3,1. 


'■/■} 


the.  ffaty/iss. 


rDefcription  of  the  IJland  of  Samos.  grr 

My  fa  between  Mount  Olympus  and  Mount  Sipyli :  but  'tis  flrange,  tliat  in  Letter  X. 
the  days  of  Diofcorides  they  fhould  prefer  the  Juice  of  this  Species  to  ^~v^*j 
that  of  Scammony  of  Judea,  which  is  the  fame  with  that  of  Syria  ;  for 
Experience  obliges  us  to  reject  that  of  Myjia  or  of  Smyrna,  and  flick  to 
the  ufe  of  that  of  Aleppo  or  Syria.  That  of  Samos  and  Scalanova  is  con- 
joined in  Anatolia.  It  is  Cuftom-free  ;  and  but  little  is  tranfporred  to  the 
Weflern  Parts  of  the  World. 

THE  Fecundity  of  the  Ifland  of  Samos  was  matter  of  admiration  with  "on  fa  $ 
theAntients.     Strabo  was  ravifh'd  with  every  individual  thing  in  it,  ex«  Jr^p£f*' 
eept  the  Wine  :  but  belike  he  never  tailed  its  Mufcadine  Wine,  or  perhaps  y'wfejK 
they  never  bethought  themfelves  of  making  any.     Athen^m,  after  jEthUtts,  Geog,  Kb.  i4* 
reports  that  the  Fig-Trees,  Apple-Trees,  Role-Trees,  and  the  Vines  too  ^hen- D^n. 
of  this  Iflandr  bore  Fruit  twice  a  year.    Pliny  takes  notice  of  the  Pome-  Hift.  Njr, 
granates  of  Samos,  fome  of  which  had  red  Seeds,  others  white.    Befides  ,'b•  **'  *  I?* 
Fruit,  the  Country  is  at  this  time  full  of  Wild- Fowl,  Partridge,  Wood- 
cock, Snipe,  Thrufhes,  Wood-Pidgeons,  Turtle-Doves,  Wheatears.     Its- 
Poultry  too  is  excellent :  Heath-cocks  are  not  common  there,  but  keep 
to  the  Sea-fide  between  the  little  Boghas  and  Cora,  near  a  marihy  Pool,  Tomtit,  flte- 
which  we  havenot  omitted  in  our  Chart ;  they  call  'era  Meadow- Partridge,  "f^.     * 
There  are  no  Rabbits  in  Samos,  but  abundance  of  Hares,  WildrBoars, 
Coats,  and  fome  Deer.    They  breed  much  Cattel  :    they  have  fewer 
Sheep  than  Goats.     The  French  lade  a  Bark  with  Wool  once  a  year :  'tis 
fold  at  the  rate  of  5  Ibis  for  $  pound  2  oz.  weight. 

PAR  T  R  TD  G  E  S  you  may  have  for  three-pence  a  Brace.  The  Na- 
tives not  knowing  how  to  moot  flying,  wait  for  'em  along  the  Brooks- 
where  they  come  to  drink  in  Droves,  like  Larks ;  they'll  kill  ye  feven  or 
eight  at  a  time,  nay  fifteen  or  twenty.  The  Mules  and  Herfes  of  the 
Ifland  are  not  handfome,  but  are  good  Goers ;  and  tho  they  let  'em  graze- 
as  they  lift,  without  confining  'em  to  Inclofures,  they  never  flray  from, 
their  Owners  Houfes,  and  are  eafily  taken  up  whenever  there's  occafion.. 
They  breed  a  great  many  Beeves,  but  know  not  what  a.  Buffalo  is.  The: 
Wolves  and  Jackals  do  fbmetimes  a  deal  of  mifchie£  They  have  fome 
Tygers  too,  which  come  from  the  Terra-frma  by  the  little  Boghas- 

SAMOS  does  not  want  for  Iron  Mines;  mofl  of  the  Land  looks  of 
the  colour  of  Rufl.     All  about  Bavonda  is  full  of  a  Bolus,  deep  red,  very 

fine,. 


rxs. 


oi2  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant  I 

s«_mia  Ufa  fine,  very  dry,  and  flicks  to  the  Tongue.  It  is  a  natural  Saffron  of 
efcuienris  lau-  Mars,  from  whence  they  extract 'Iron,  by  the  afliflance  Of  Linfeed  Oil ; 
hIjl'IZ1!"'  s*™m  was  heretofore  famed  for  Earthen  Ware  ;  perhaps  it  was  this  Earth 
NosSamiode-  about  Bavonda.  According  to  Aulus  Gelliw,  the  Samians  were  the  firft 
invwm.  "'  Inventors  of  the  Pottery-Trade ;  now  no  body  follows  it,  and  they  ufe 
Aui.Geii.  iib.5.  the  Anconx  Ware  intirely  :  the  '  Jars  for  Brandy  and  Wine  come  from 

,  K^fJ^ot'  v  ^cio'  ^itn  ta^in§  ever  *°  nct^e  Pains>  one  vvould  find  at  Samos  *  thofe 
feig.  Dwj'c.    two  forts  0f  white  Earth  which  were  ufed  medicinally  by  the  Antients  a 

lib.c.   c.  172.  **»»», 

pim.Hift.Nai.  DUC  tney  don't  concern  themfelves  about  fuch  Inquiries,  any  more  than 
lib.  3  2.  cap.  1 6.  for  the  Samian  Stone,  'which  was  not  only  of  ufe  to  polifh  Gold  withaL      a> 

*  Diofc.  ibid.  *  ^ 

cap.  173.       but  was  very  prevalent  in  many  Diftempers. 

5J*J2j*jj  THE  Emery  Stone  is  not  fcarce  in  this  Ifland.  Oker  is  common  a- 
bout  Vati :  it  takes  a  very  fine  yellow  being  put  in  the  fire,  and  if  it  lies 
there  long,  turns  to  a  brownifh-red ;  it  has  no  manner  of  tafte,  and  natu- 
rally (tains  a  fillamot  colour.  There  is  found  about  Carlovaffl  a  very 
black  and  fine  Earth,  but  altogether  infipid;  which,  becaufe  it  ferves  to 
dye  lowing  Thred  of  a  black  colour,  fhould  feem  to  partake  of  Vitriol. 

ALL  the  Mountains  of  this  Ifland  are  of  white  Marble.  On  the 
way  from  Vati  to  the  little  Boghas  there's  a  very  beautiful  Pillar,  not  yet 
loofen'd  from  its  Quarry.  I  was  told  there  was  a  fine  Jafper  towards  PU- 
tuno.  Thefe  Mountains  are  very  cool,  .full  of  Springs  cover'd  over  with 
Trees,  and  very  delightful.  The  molt  noted  Streams  are  that  of  Metelu 
now,  and  that  which  runs  beyond  the  Ruins  of  the  Temple  of  'Juno. 

THE  Port  of  Vati,  which  looks  to  the  North-Weft,  is  the  ."heft  of  bi 
the  Ifland.  Ships  come  to  an  anchor  on  the  right,  in  a  fort  of  a  Bay 
form'd  by  a  little  Hill  jutting  out  like  a  Pot-hook.  This  Port,  which 
-is  capacious  enough  for  a  large  Fleet,  gave  occafion  to  build  a  Town 
•there;  its  Ruins,  tho  without  any  Badges  of  Magnificence,  look  to  be 
of  a  vaft  extent :  it  has  been  forfaken  a  long  time  by  the  Inhabitants,  for 
fear  of  the-Corfair-s.  Fetching  a  compafs  round  thelfland,  from  this  Port 
Wefhvard,  you  eome  to  the  Coaft  of  Carlovatfi,  which  is  fit  for  nothing  v 
but  Caicks  or  large  Boats,  and  thofe  too  muft  be  tow'd  afhore.     The  Pore 

Seit.Hi,  :n  Tur-         .  .        .  . .  _.      <  -^ 

kifh L*ngua&.  beitan  is  nine  miles  oft  Larlovaffi ;  but  it  is  the  worft  Port  of  the  whole 
£-?'  '**  I^and,  and  the  North-Wind  is  fatal  to  moll  VefTels  there.  Beyond  Seitan, 
TUnCd™,  de  the  liland  terminates  by  the  Mountain  of  Catabate,  which  makes  the  Cape 

Eelcenliis.  of 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Samos.  3 1 3 

of  Samos,    and  the  Cape  forms  one  of  the  fides  of  the  great  Boghas*:  Letter  X. 

when  a  Storm  threatens,  you  muft  retreat  into  fome  Port  of  the  Iflands  v-'^v_^-' 

of  Four  My  on  the  right.     After  doubling  the  Cape  of  S.tmos,  you  come  to 

MarairoiAmpo    thence  you  pals  between  the  Ifland  of  '  Samapoula  and  the  '  Ripara.  pU»> 

Cape  Cologne,  named  the 2  Cape  of  Juno  on  account  of  a  Temple  hard  by, ,  r'c  H  J, 

facred  to  that  Goddcfs.     From  this  Cape  you  enter  into  a  very  convenient Stiab-  Rer- 

Port,  but  too  much  expos'd  to  the  South-Eafi:  Wind ;  which  made  the  They \ifo  call 

Antients  to  build  on  the  Coaft  of  Cera,  over  againft  the  Town  of  Samos,  corafmt 

a  beautiful  Mcic,  to  Ihelter  their  Gallies :  this  Mole  now  goes  bv  the  whi,e  CaPe- 

D  •*         a  a-!r^  ^CD- 

name  of  Tigani?  bxaufe  of  its  Roundnefs;  for  in  vulgar  Greek,  Tigam 

fignifies  a  round  Cake. 

I N  the  little  Boghas,  over  againft  the  Mountain  of  Samfon,  is  a  Re- 
treat for  Ships  call'd  the  Gallj-port ;  about  which  we  difcern'd  the  Ruins 
of  an  antient  Town  and  the  Remains  of  two  Temples,  as  we  conjectured 
from  five  or  fix  Columns  lying  on  the  ground.  The  one  was  built  on  an 
Eminence,  and  the  other  in  a  Bottom  :  the  Ruins  of  the  Town  are  full 
of  Bricks,  interfpers'd  with  fome  pieces  of  white  Marble  and  bits  of  Co- 
lumns of  Jafper  ftain'd  red  and  white.  At  the  Point  of  the  Port,  the 
narrowed  part  of  the  Boghas,  are  the  Foundations  of  an  antient  Tower 
of  Marble  :  the  People  of  the  Country  pretend  there  ufed  to  be  Chains 
a-crofs  to  bar  the  Strait ;  adding  withal,  that  there  are  ftill  to  be  feen  on 
the  other  fide,  which  is  on  the  Terra-firma,  certain  mafTy  Rings  of  Brafs 
for  that  very  purpofe.  The  laft  Port  of  the  Ifland  is  that  of  Prafonif, 
behind  a  Rock  fo  call'd,  between  the  Boghas  and  the  Port  of  Vati.  Be- 
fore you  difcover  this  Port,  you  pafs  by  three  or  four  Rocks,  the  chief  of 
which  is  call'd  Didafcalo  or  Dafcalio,  within  Gun-fhot  of  the  Ifland :  this, 
they  lay,  was  formerly  the  College  or  School  of  the  whole  Country. 

I  H  A  V  E  nothing  further   to  add,  in  relation    to  the  Ports  of  the 
Ifland.     The    old  Town  of  Samos  extended   from  the  Port  of  Tigani, '  o  \i£&mi 
which  is  three  miles  from  Cora,  to  as  far  as  the  \  great  River  which  runs  st™fti,  t 
within  5  co  paces  of  the  Ruins  of  the  Temple  of  Juno  :  for  4  Strabo  ad-  Me?f'*«  «•■ 
vances,  that  one  of  the  Suburbs  of  this  Town  was  at  the  Cape  of  Juno ;  g*r  Greek. 
the  fame  Author  writes,  thziTembrio,  and  Vrocles  after  him,  built  Samos.  *T°,<w?'*"«- 

'  '  ov  in  zzgef  rot 

The  Tranflation  has  it  Patrocles,  but 'tis  much  more  probable  it  mould  be  H^fa.  stiab. 

ibid. 

King  Vrocles.     Vitruv'ms  pretends,  the  Town  of  Samos,   and  the  thirteen  Archit.  Hb# 4> 
VoL  I.  Sf  Towns  "P*  •■ 


g 1 4-  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Towns  of  Ionia,  were   the  Work  of  Ion  the  Athenian,  who  gave  Ionia 
its  Name. 

T  H  O  Santos  is  intirely  deftroy'd,  yet  may  it  be  divided  into  Upper 
and  Lower,  for  the  better  understanding  the  Plan.  The  Upper  Town 
took  up  the  Hill,  North  ;  and  the  Lower  ran  along  the  Sea-more  from 
Port  Tigani  to  the  Cape  of  Juno.  Tigani,  which  is  the  Gaily-Port  of  the 
Antients,  as  I  laid  e'en  now,  is  in  form  of  a  Half-Moon,  and  regards  the 

Lb-  3-  South-Eaft  :  its  left  Horn  is  that  famed  Jettee,  which  Herodotus  reckon'd 

among  the  three  Wonders  of  Samos ;  this  Jettee  was  20  Toiles  in  height, 
and  advanced  above  250  paces  into  the  Sea.  So  extraordinary  a  Work  at 
that  time  of  day,  is  an  Evidence  of  the  Samians  Application  to  Marine 

Thucyd.  lib.i.  Matters  :  and  fo  we  find  'em  receiving  with  open  Arms  Aminocles  the  Co- 
rinthian, the  ableft  Shipwright  of  his  time,  who  built  'em  four  Ships, 
about  300  Years  before  the  end  of  the  Peloponnejian  War.  It  was  the  Sa- 
mians that  carry'd  Batus  to  Cyrene,  above  600  Years  before  Chrift;  in 

Hia.  Nat.  fhort,  we  have  Plinfs  word  for't,  that  they  were  the  Inventors  of  Tranf- 
port  Ships  for  carriage  of  Cavalry. 

FROM  the  Port  of  Tigani  we  afcended  an  Eminence  thick  fet  with 
Marble  Tomb-ftones,  without  either  Sculpture  or  Infcriptions.  Thence, 
Northward,  begin  the  Remains  of  the  Walls  of  the  Upper  Town,  on  the 
flope  of  a  rugged  Mountain.  This  Compafs  continuing  to  the  top,  form'd 
a  lafge  Angle  towards  the  Weft,  after  running  the  whole  length  of  the 
Mountain's  fide.  Thefe  Walls,  by  what  appears,  were  very  noble,  espe- 
cially thofe  in  fight  of  Cora  ■  they  were  ten  foot  thick,  and  in  *fbme 
places  twelve,  built  with  huge  Scantlings  of  Marble,  cut  for  the  moft 
part  facet- wife  like  Diamonds.  We  "law  nothing  in  all  the  Levant  to 
compare  with  them  :  the  Inter-fpaces  were  Mafonry  ;  all  the  Redoubts 
were  of  Marble,  and  had  their  FaufTe-ports  to  throw  in  Soldiers  on  oc- 
cafion. 

THE  Brow  of  the  Mountain,  Southward,  was  cover'd  with  Houfes  in 
form  of  an  Amphitheatre,  and  faced  the  Sea.  Below,  is  flill  feen  the 
place  of  a  Theatre,  the  Materials  whereof  have  been  carry'd  away  to 

n*v*>(*  ka<- build  Cora.     It  was  fituated   on    the  right   of  a  Chappel,    call'd,  Our 

*?^/«*  £    Lady  of  a  thou/and    Satis,    or  Our  Lady  of  the  Grotto,  on  account  of  a 
remarkable  Grotto  fill'd  with  Congelations.     In  the  places  about  the 

Cblippel 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Samos.  g  r  5 

Chappcl  are    abundance  of  Marble  Pillars,   forne    round,  others  pan-  Letter  X. 
nel'd.  ^J^T>^ 

GOING  down  from  the  Theatre  to  the  Sea,  you  behold  a  world 
of  broken  Pillars,  moil:  of  'em  either  channel'd  or  in  pannels ;  lome 
round,  others  channel'd  on  the  fides  with  a  Plat-band  before  and  be- 
hind, like  rhofe  of  the  Frontifpiece  of  Jpollo's  Temple  at  Delos.  There 
are  alio  feveral  other  Columns  with  different  Profils  on  lome  adjacent  Ri- 
fings :  their  Dilpofition  flill  is  round  or  in  fquares,  which  makes  me  guefs 
they  lerv'd  for  Temples  or  Porticos.  The  like  we  fee  in  many  other 
places  up  and  down  the  Ifland. 

THE  Ruins  of  the  Houfes,  among  which  they  now  drive  the  Plough,    - 
are  of  ordinary  Mafbnry,  mix'd  with  Bricks  and  lome  pieces  of  Marble, 
adorn'd  with  Mouldings,  or  fimply  fquared  out.     We  law  no  Infcriptions : 
thoie  made  when  Greece  was  in  its  Glory,  are  either  fb  broken  or  defaced, 
they  can't  be  underftood. 

A  S  for  the  Breadth  of  the  Town,  it  took  up  part  of  that  fine  Plain 
which  comes  from  Cora  as  far  as  to  the  Sea,  Southward ;  and  Weftward, 
as  far  as  to  the  River  that  runs  beyond  the  Ruins  of  Juno's  Temple.  The 
Water  was  convey'd  by  an  Aqueduct,  the  Remains  whereof  are  ftiil  in 
part  to  befeen  as  you  come  from  Miles  to  Pjrgos,  as  likewife  at  the  Port 
of  the  '  Farm  of  the  grand  Convent  of  our  Lady.  Thefe  Canals  or  Aque-  ■  uiiiyt  T« 
duels  were  of  excellent  Brick  made  of  Bavonda  Earth,  and  were  very  ^K,,i  ,JJS"" 

'  J    ttya.i. 

neatly  fet  in.  Uai%,wkkk 

BESIDES  this  Aqueduct,   the  Waters  that  come   from  MetelwousfgirGnxka 
empty   themfelves  likewife  at  the  Entrance  of  the  Lower  Town,  after  ^yX«/^*r 
having  pafs'd  under  the  Arches  of  an  Aqueduct  crofs  the  Dale  leading;  comef  from 

"  r  °  [JLimiuHnf,  ha- 

from  Cora  to  Vati.  On  the  right  of  this  Dale  is  the  Mountain  whereon  bitatio. 
is  built  the  Upper  Town  :  on  the  left  is  a  Mountain,  which  I  fhail  here- 
after call  the  perforated  Mountain,  for  certain  Reafons  which  fhall  be 
given.  You  pais  over  this  fmall  Stream  along  the  Sea-fhore,  going  from 
Tigani  to  the  Ruins  of  the  Temple :  hereabouts  are  flill  to  be  feen  the 
Badges  of  a  very  confiderable  Chriftian  Church.  Beyond  this  Stream, 
you  crofs  another,  which  comes  directly  from  Cora,  and  in  all  appearance 
fcrv'd  the  Upper  Town  with  Water. 

S  f  z  ON 


a  1 6  A  Vo  y  a  g  e  into  the  Levant. 

ON  the  left  of  the  Dale,  near  to  the  Aqueduct  that  croffes  it,  are 
certain  Caverns,  the  Entrance  of  fome  of  'em  was  artificially  cut; 
and  if  we  may  believe  the  People  of  the  Country,  they  have  ferv'd  for 
above  2000  Years  as  Sheltring-places  to  the  Sheep,  Goats,  and  Cows : 
and  for  that  reaibn  the  Land  there  is  full  of  Nitre.  We  were  told  they 
had  fhut  up  one  of  thefe  Caverns  where  this  Salt  is  perfectly  cbryf- 
talliz'd ;  the  Turks  are  neither  induflrious  nor  ingenious  enough  to  make 
ufe  of  it,  and  would  lay  by  the  heels  fuch  Greeks  as  mould  prefume  to 
touch  'em. 

I N  all  appearance  fbme  of  thefe  artificial  Caverns  were  what  Herodotus 
lays  were  rank'd  among  the  mod  wonderful  Performances  of  the  Greek 
Nation.  Eupalinus  the  Architect  of  Megara  was  the  Contriver  of  this  like- 
wile.  The  Samians,  to  ule  the  words  of  Herodotus,  bored  through  a  Mountain 
150  Toifes  deep;  and  in  this  Opening,  which  was  875  faces  long,  they  formed 
a  Canal  twenty  Cubits  deep  and  three  foot  broad,  to  convey  to  their  Town  the 
Waters  of  a  beautiful  Spring.  The  Entrance  of  this  Opening  is  Hill  to  be 
feen  ;  the  other  parts  have  been  filPd  up  fince  then.  The  beautiful  Spring 
which  tempted  'em  to  go  upon  fo  great  a  Work,  is  doubtlefs  that  of  Me- 
telinous,  which  I  mall  take  notice  of  in  its  proper  place  ;  for  this  Village 
is  feated  on  the  other  fide  of  the  bored  Mountain.  From  this  marvellous 
Canal,  the  Water  pafs'd  through  the  Aqueduct  that  croHes  the  Dale,  and 
proceeded  to  the  Town  by  a  Conduit  which  took  the  lame  turn  as  the 
Canal  of  Cora.  The  Canal  that  crofs'd  the  Mountain  is  of  a  furprizing 
deepnels  ;  but  this  perhaps  they  were  obliged  to,  for  preferving  the  Level 
of  the  Spring.  Laurentius  Valla  had  no  good  grounds  for  believing  that  the 
Breadth  of  its  Canal  was  triple  its  Depth ;  for  certainly  the  Opening,  by 
what  now  appears  of  it,  could  not  be  above  fixty  Cubits  broad  :  befides, 
a  Canal  of  this  diameter,  and  twenty  Cubits  deep,  would  be  capable  of 
Aw  niya.MK  carrying  a  large  River  inflead  of  a  Spring.  M.  du  Ryer  teems  not  to  have 
Tm!  underftood  this  Paflage  of  Herodotus ;  for,   according  to  his  Tranflation, 

the  Spring  mould  ilTue  out  of  the  bored  Mountain  ;  whereas  the  Moun- 
tain was  bored  on  purpofe  to  bring  the  Water  that  way. 

SOME  500  paces  from  the  Sea,  and  almofl  the  like  diftance  from  the 

River  Imbrafus  towards  Cape  Cora,  are  the  Ruins  of  the  famous  Temple 

iie)v  t«       of  Samian  Juno,  that  is,  Juno  the  Protectrels  of  Samos.    The  more  inge- 

Lb.  i5«  4-  mous 


Hefrription  of  the  IJland  of  Samos.  g  1 7 

mous  lore  of  Papas  ftiil  call  it  by  the  name  of  Juno's  Temple.     Menodo-  Letter  X. 
tus  the  Samian,  cited  in  Athen&us  as  the  Author  of  a  Tractate  about  the 
Curiofities  of  Samos,  fays  that  it  was  built  by  Car  teas  and  lome  Nymphs  ; 
for  this  Ifland  was  firft  in  poiTeflion  of  the  Carians.     Paujanias  fays,  it 
was  luppos'd  to  be  the  Work  of  the  Argonauts,  who  had  brought  from 
Argos  to  Samos  a  Statue  of  the  Goddefs,  and  that  the  Samians  afferted 
that  Juno  was  born  on  the  Banks  of  the  River  lmbrafus  under  one  of 
thofe  Trees  we  call  Aenus  Callus.     It  is  true  thefe  Trees  are  very  frequent  At/;«  '"  ""' 
along  this  River,  and  indeed  throughout  the  Ifland,  and  the  whole  Archi-  dun  Greek. 
pelago.     The  Stump  of  the  Agnus-Cajlus  was  Ihewn  in  way  of  Veneration 
for  a  long  time  in  the  Temple  of  Juno.     Paufanias  proves  alio  the  Anti- 
quity of  this  Temple  from  that  of  the  Goddels's  Statue,  which  was  the 
Workmanfhip  of  SmilU  Sculptor  of  Egina,  Cotemporary  of  Dedalus.    Cle- 
mens Alexandrinus,  on  the  Credit  of  ALtblius  a  very  antient  Author,  ob- 
ferves  that  the  Statue  of  Juno  at  Samos,  was  only  a  Stump  of  Wood, 
afterwards  form'd  into  a  Statue.     Atbenxus,  on  the  Veracity  of  the  lame 
Menodotus  whom  we  juft  now  mention'd,  forgets  not  a  famous  Miracle 
which  happen'd  when  the  Tyrrhenians  would  have  carry'd  off  Juno's  Sta- 
tue :  thofe  Pirates  were  wind-bound,  till  fuch  time  as  they  reftored  it  again 
to  its  place.     The  Ifland  was  much  relbrted  to  on  account  of  this  Pro- 
digy, which  had  fpread  its  Fame  far  and  near;  the  Temple  was  burnt  by  Paufaiu  533, 
the  Perfians,  but  it  was  not  long  e'er  it  was  rebuilt,  and  fo   heap'd  with 
Riches,  that  in  a  very  mort  Ipace  of  time  there  was  no  room  for  the  Sta- 
tues and  Pictures.  "  Verres  in  his  Return  from  Afia,  notwithftanding  the 
Example  of  the  Tyrrhenians,  made  no  fcruple  to  rifle  this  Temple  of 
whatever  was  valuable  :  Cicero  very  juftly  reflects  on  him  for  this  Impiety. 
Neither  did  the  Pirates  ftiew  any  more  relpecl:  to  this  Edifice  in  Pompefs 
time.     Strabo  calls  it  a  great  Temple  fill'd  with  Pictures  and  antique  Or- 
naments :  among  which,  doubtlefs  was  that  of  the  Loves  of  Jupiter  and 
Juno,  reprefented  fo  natural,  that  Origen  reproaches  the  Gentiles  with  it.  Lib.  4.  tonus 
There  was  likewife  in  the  Temple  of  Samos  a  Court  or  Yard  for  the  Sra-    e  ' 
rues,  among  which  were  three  Coloflus-like  by  Myron,  on  the  lame  Bafe. 
Mark  Anthony  carry'd  'em  away,  but  Augujlus  reftored  thole  of  Minerza. 
and  Hercules,  and  only  lent  that  of  Jupiter  to  the  Capitol,  to  be  placed 
in  a  little  Temple  he  caus'd  to  be  built  there. 

OF 


3 r 8  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

O  F  Co  many  fine  things,  we  found  but  two  Reliques  of  Columns,  and 
fome  Bafes  of  the  beautifulleft  Marble  I  ever  faw.  Some  years  ago  the 
Turks  imagining  that  one  of  thele  Columns  was  full  of  Gold  and  Silver, 
attempted  to  demolifli  it  by  firing  fbme  Cannon  at  it  iirom  on  board 
their  Gallies :  and  accordingly  damaged  it  very  much. 

SOME  Bafes  of  Columns  are  Hill  to  be  ieen,  and  look  to  be  fquared 
out  into  a  Parellallogram  (or  long  Square)  but  being  intermix'd  with  fe- 
veral  Tympanums  of  demoliih'd  Columns,  there's  no  afcertaining  the 
Difpofition,  and  confequently  the  Plan  of  the  whole  Edifice,  which,  ac- 
k.  h  cording  to  Herodotus,  was  the  third  Wonder  of  Samos  :  that  Author  owns 

it  was  the  moil  fpacious  Temple  he  ever  beheld,  and,  but  for  him,  we 
had  never  known  who  was  the  Architect ;  he  was  a  Samian,  one  Rhxcus 
by  name. 

THIS  Rh*cus  had  therein  employ'd  a  very  particular  Order  of  Co- 
lumns, as  may  be  leen  by  the  Figure.     It  is  indeed  neither  better  nor 
worfe  than  the  Ionian  Order  in  its  infancy,  void  of  that  Beauty  it  after- 
wards acquired.     The  Bafis  of  the  great  Column  juft  now  mention' d  is 
two  foot  eight  inches  high,  with  a  large  round  Cordon  below,  an  inch 
high:  the  Bale  is  adorn'd  with  five  annular  deep  Channellings ;  the  other 
part  of  this  Bale  is  of  the  diameter  of  the  Shaft,  but  it  is  terminated  by 
a  little  Cordon  or  Edging  :  this  Bafis  is  pofited  on  a  Pedeftal  eight  inches 
high,  girt  with  five  Rings  like  io  many  Hoops.     There  remains  but  one 
fingle  Chapiter,  which  we  caus'd  to  be  uncover'd,  for  it  was  bury'd  in  the 
Inclolure  of  the  Temple  :  this  Chapiter,  which  at  this  time  is  the  only 
one  in  the  World  of  its  kind,  is  one  foot  feven  inches  high,  and  anfwers 
to  the  Profil  of  its  Bafe.     Its  Tympanum  has  a  large  Rouleau  one  foot 
high,  on  which  are  cut  Eggs  in  Relief,  each  within  its  refpective  Bor- 
der ;  and  from  the  Interfaces  of  the  Borders  hang  Points  like  Flames  of 
Fire.     There  is  a  fmall  Aftragal  below  the  Rouleau  •  the  Plan  which 
bears  upon  the  Shaft  or  Body  of  the  Column,  is  four  foot  three  inches 
diameter,  and  concludes  alio  in  a  finall  Aftragal.     The  Frontifpiece  of 
the  Temple  faces  the  Eaft  and  the  Town  of  Samos,  as  may  be  guefs'd  from 
the  Range  of  the  two  Columns  mention'd  before  ;  for  they  range  from 
North  to  South.     We  dug  above  two  foot,  to  come  at  the  Pedeftal  that 
fupports  the  Bafe  of  the  largeft  Column,  and  this  Pedeftal  bears  on  a  well- 

fquarcd 


' 


/fr/.  I. 


Ta$.3lS . 


.  4  thbttn/i  'aftA*:  TOm/rle 
of  Juste)  a£~  Jarruhr. 


$ 


9 

* 


T>efcription  of  the  IJland  of  Samos.  gip 

fquared  Piece  of  Marble,  which  perhaps  was  pare  of  the  Steps  of  the  Letter  X. 
Temple.     Standing,  as  it  does,  in  a  bottom,  no  wonder  the  Water  has  in  y~/^^/~^--> 
fo  long  a  fpace  of  time  brought   Earth  enough  to  cover  'em.     If  thefe 
Conjectures  are  true,  the  Face  of  the  Temple  muft  not  have  been  above 
24  Toifes  long,  for  there's  but  that  diftancc  from  the  great  Column  to  that 
with  one  Tympanum :  however,  as  we  have  H(rodotm  and  Strabo^s  word 
for  it  that  it  was  a  great  Temple,  it  is  highly  probable  this  is  but  part  of'  J»no  Pro- 
thatFace.     We  muft  not  be  govern'd  by  the  Draught  of  that  Temple,  as  , 
we  find  it  on  the  old  Medals  ;  for  oftentimes  they  reprefent  different  Tem- '' ,Hl.m  &  »w- 
pics  under  the  fame  Form,  as  I  my  felf  have  obferv'd  in  fbme  of  the  2>-rtempiumejus 
v'antj  where  the  Temples  of  Epbeftes  and  Samos  were  of  the  fame  Defign.    fim^Su^ 
A  S  for  the  Goddefs,    /lie  was  differently  habited,   accord i no;  to  the  '" !,abi'11  nu- 
parts  flie  acted  :  fhe  was  made  to  prefide  in  '  Marriage,  in  2  Child-birth,  tum:  pcftcra 
and '  other  Accidents  natural  to  Women  :  but  as  for  the  Garb  peculiar  to  ,-,'a  tw$inm 
each  refpective  Ceremony,  he  muft  be  a  better  Antiquary  than  I  am,  -to  [jj  "'^"n" 
afcertain  it.     All  I  know  of  the  matter,  is,  that  the  Crefcent  or  Half-  m-}-  defalk 
Moon  on  her  head,  and  under  her  feet,  denoted  the  monthly  Influence  •junoLuctoa 
fhe   had  on  the  Fair  Sex  :    whence  me  was  call'd  the  Goddefs  of  the  9ud  Te^»t. 
Months.     For  thisreafon,  perhaps,  fhe  was  reprefented on  the  Medals  mfie».i.  juno 
this  Tfland  with  Bracelets  hanging  from  her  Arms  down  to  her  Feet,  with  V^Kq.utDp. 
a  Crefcent  over  all.     The  Crefcent  figuify'd  the  Months,  and  the  Bracelets  Ttus'     , 

0       J  '  J-ucma,  ab  to 

fhew'd  that  fhe  had  taught  the  Women  how  to  reckon  certain  Days :  as  we  iuod  w  l"fm 
ftill  fee  the  People  of  the  Eaft  caft  their  Accounts  by  the  Beads  of  their  apild  noftros 

Bracelets  .T«non«n  Lu- 

Draccicts.  cinam  in  pa- 

AFTER  all,  I  know  nothing  more  obfeure  than  thefe  pretended  Brace- riendo  inv°- 

cant,  ait  Cic. 


lets  of  Jtwo ;  for  I  fee  no   foundation  to  believe  with  *  Triftanus,  that  Mr.  \.  de 

Kat.  Deoi 
J  Dea  Mena 


what  I  take  for  Bracelets  fhould  be  Beards  of  a  Ship's  Anchor.     Be  it  as  A 


'twill,  there's  no  great  harm  in  venturing  fometimes  into  the  Ocean  of  menftruis  fluo- 
Difcoveries,  tho  it  abounds  with  Fictions.     I  therefore  propofc  it  to  the  Aug.  dtcw. 
Curious  to  examine,  whether  thefe  fame  Bracelets  with  a  Crefcent  oyer  De,'['7'c'11' 
'em  may  not  be  an  Attribute  of  Ju»o,  betokening  what  I  have  faid  above     wiqn, 
concerning  Women,  or  elfe  whether  they  are  only  a  fort  of  Ornament  0}' / mITJi  of 
which  lano  advis'd  'em  to  wear  :  for  that  Goddefs  was  the  Inventor  of  ^uguftus  w 
Drefs,  according  to  St.  At ban 'a fins.  Numifm.imP. 


Rom. 

4  Comment. 
TRJS-Hift.  torn.  1, 


320  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

TRISTANVS  has  given  a  Type  of  a  Medal  of  the  Samians,  repre- 
fenting  Juno  with  a  very  bare  Neck.  She  has  a  Tunick  reaching  to  her 
feet,  with  a  Girdle  very  tight  about  her ;  the  Folding  of  the  Tunick  makes 
a  ibrt  of  Apron :  her  Veil  hangs  from  the  top  of  her  Head  to  the  bottom  ' 
s  G3&toTa  of  the  Tunick-  The  '  Reverfe  of  a  Medal  in  the  King's  Cabinet,  repre- 
sents this  Veil  at  its  full  ftretch,  making  two  Angles  on  the  Hands,  one 
Angle  on  the  Head,  and  another  at  the  Heels.  I  have  lome  Medals  of 
Same/,  where  Juno's  Neck  is  cover'd  with  a  Ibrt  of  Camail,  beneath 
which  hangs  a  Tunick  with  the  Girdle  placed  crofs-wile.  The  Head  of 
thefe  laft  Medals  is  crown'd  with  a  Hoop  refting  on  each  Shoulder,  and 
lupporting  on  the  top  of  its  Bow  a  fort  of  Ornament  picked  below,  widen- 
ing above,  like  a  Pyramid  revers'd.     On  one  of  the  Medals  in  the  King's 

•  n*7t«  eivV  Cabinet,  that  Goddefs  wears  on  her  Head  a  "  Bonnet  fharp-pointed.  ter- 
iiefych.  minated  by  a  Crelcent :  on  other !  Medals  in  the  fame  Cabinet,  is  feen  a 
Spanhcim/L  kind  °f  Basket  ferving  that  Goddefs  for  a  Head-Drefs,  the  other  parts  of 

her  Habit  refembling  our  Benedictine  Monks.  The  Head-geer  of  the 
Turkifb  Women  is  very  like  this  of  Juno,  and  makes  'em  look  very  grace- 
ful :  that  Goddefs  was  undoubtedly  the  Inventrefs  of  this  becoming  Drefs 
for  the  Head,  and  which  our  Commodes  have  fince  imitated.     Juno,  who 

*  nvKim  in  prefided  at  Nuptials,  wore  a 4  Crown  of  Cyperus  (a  fort  of  Ruih)  and  of 
lib.  14.  thofe  Flowers  call'd  by  us  Immortal :  a  little  Basket  was  fill'd  with  'em,  and 
cap.  16.    ' ?  faften'd  to  the  top  of  the  Head ;  from  hence  perhaps  comes  the  cuflom  now 

in  trie  in  the  Levant,  of  putting  Crowns  on  the  Heads  of  the  new-marry'd 
cam  1  an.  Couple.  The  Abbot  de  Camps  has  a  fine  Medallion  of  Maximin,  on  the 
Reverfe  whereof  is  the  Temple  of  Samos,  with  Juno  in  the  Nuptial  Ha- 
Athen.  ibui.  bit,  and  two  Peacocks  at  her  Feet :  this  Habit  differs  not  from  thofe  we 
have  been  fpeaking  of,  and  Peacocks  are  repreiented  on  it,  becaule  they 
were  bred  about  that  Goddefs's  Temple,  as  Birds  lacred  to  her. 

BESIDES  all  thele  Medals  I  have  been  mentioning,  I  met  with  a  very 
fair  one  of  TranquiMwa,  on  the  Reverie  whereof  is  Meleager,  or  rather 
Gordianm  the  Husband  of  that  Emprels,  who  Hew  a  Wild-Boar  in  hunt- 
ing. In  the  King's  Collection  there  are  more  Medals  of  the  fame  Type, 
and  another  with  the  Head  of  Decieu. 

THE  third  of  January  we  lay  within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  Cora,  in 
the  Farm  of  the  great  Convent  of  the  Virgin  :  this  Farm  is  but  a  quarter 

of 


Description  of  the  I/land  of  Samos.  321 

of  a  League  from  the  Ruins  of  a  Temple,  in  a  Plain  full  of  Vines,  Olive,  Letter  X. 
Mulberry,  and  Orange-Trees,  efpecially  about  Miles,  which  is  not  above  ^f^*-* 
two  miles  from  the  Farm.  The  firft  of  February  we  let  out  for  the  great 
Convent  ten  miles  from  the  Farm,  and  dined  there :  it  is  fituated  half-way 
up  agreeable  Mountains,  cover'd  with  Holm-Oaks,  Pine-Trees,  Philarea, 
Adrachne  ;  we  found  fome  Stocks  of  this  Tree  with  large  Fruit  ending  in 
a  point ;  it  mail  be  defcribed  hereafter,  as  alio  a  fine  fort  of  Germander 
with  Betony-Leaves,  which  grows  about  the  lame  place.  After  we  had 
eaten  Ibme  Olives,  and  drank  a  Glafs  or  two  of  rat-gut  Wine,  in  this 
Convent,  we  went  to  Pyrgos,  a  Town  feven  miles  off;  the  Neighbour- 
hood whereof  abounds  with  a  fine  fort  of  Cachrys.  which  at  this  time  Cach/1r)'s  ^ieti~ 

J    '  ca,  Angelicas 

was  in  flower.     The  fecond  of  February  we  went  through  Platano,  eight  folio,  Afpho- 
miles  from  Pyrgos,  thence  by  the  Convent  of  St.  Elijah  four  miles  off;  rli.7njLiei~ 
that  Evening  we  lay  at  Neocorio,  which  is  one  of  the  three  Villages  that  lfer*'2> 
form  the  Town  of  Carlovaffi  two  miles  from  the  Sea. 

THE  third  of  February  we  took  horfe  for  the  great  Mountain  of  Ca- 
tabate,  which  is  at  the  further  end  of  the  Ifland :  our  Guides  led  us  di- 
rectly to  Marathrocampo,  eight  miles  from  Carlovaffi,  and  we  fpent  the 
Night  in  St.  George's  Farm  belonging  to  the  Convent  of  St.  John  oiPatmos. 

THE  fourth  of  February  we  went  to  fee  the  Chappel,  or  rather  the 
Hermitage  of  Our  .Lady  of  fair  Appearance,  which  is  four  miles  off,  in  a  n<°'*?'*  *** 
Bottom  commanded  by  fbme  hideous  Rocks :  the  Solitude  is  charming, 
but  the  Mouth  of  the  Cavern  where  the  Chappel  Hands,  is  frightful ;  you 
go  up  by  a  Stair-cafe  almofr  perpendicular.  In  the  bottom  of  the  Cavern 
they  have  cut  a  beautiful  Confervatory  of  Water,  which  they  draw  up 
from  an  amazing  Profundity.  This  Chappel  is  as  homely  as  the  other 
Greek  Chappels. 

OUR  Guides  cou'd  by  no  means  be  prevaiPd  on  to  advance  farther  on 
the  Mountains ;  the  Cold  was  very  piercing,  and  their  Mules  would  have 
been  ftarv'd  with  hunger  in  thofe  defart  places :  fb  we  return'd  to  Mara- 
throcampo,  in  order  to  vifit  another  Solitude  more  gloomy  than  the  former, 
and  very  properly  named,  Our  Lady  of  the  Bad  Way.  We  did  not  get  UamjU  k«- 
thither  till  next  day,  after  having  crofsM  over  not  a  few  Mountains  over-  W5*fes**"' 
run  with  Pine-Trees,  Broom,  and  Arbute-Trees :  this  folitary  place  gave 
us  hopes  of  finding  fbme  Plants  worthy  notice. 

Vol,  L  T  t  THE 


Q24  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

contrary  to  it :  M.  Lappazttolo,  a  Greek  by  Nation,  and  Conful  of  Venice 
at  Smyrna,  never  drank  any  thing  but  Water,  and  yet  lived  to  be  118 
Years  of  Age.  So  that  no  conclufive  Argument  can  be  drawn  from  the 
Ufe  of  Drinks  ;  for  M.  Luppazuolo  could  not  endure  even  Coffee  or 
Sherbet :  but  what  redounds  more  to  the  honour  of  his  Memory,  is,  his 
having  one  Daughter  18  Years  old,  and  another  85,  without  reckoning 
a  Son,  who  dy'd  near  100  Years  old. 

W  E  were  prevented  by  the  bluftering  of  the  Weather  from  narrowly 
infpectiiig  fome  fine  forts  of  Renunculus  with  a  blue  Flower :  there  was 
but  little  Snow  on  the  Mountains  the  23d  of  February,  but  a  great  deal 
of  Hail  big  as  Peas.     Thefe  Mountains  are  cover'd  with  two  forts  of 

Ea*'t«.  Pine-Trees ;  but  there  are  no  Fir-Trees,  whatever  the  Inhabitants  lay,  who 
call  by  that  name  a  beautiful  fort  of  Pine,  which  is  at  Parti  in  the  Parterre 
of  the  Royal  Garden,  with  Leaves  about  five  inches  long,  and  one  line 
broad,  ftifT^  flat  on  one  fide,  round  on  the  other :  its  Fruit  is  four  inches 
long,  an  inch  and  a  half  thick,  very  picked,  confuting  of  very  large  and 
hard  Scales,  Thefe  Pines  rife  to  a  great  height,  and  are  fit  to  make  Ship- 
Mafts  ;  they  yield  abundance  of  Turpentine,  but  it  runs  in  wafte,  tho  'tis 

pinus  fyivef,  very  ciear  anxj  well-looking.    The  other  Pines  on  thefe  Mountains  are  the 

«is,  mantima,  J  "J . "    .'  . 

conis  firmiter  common  fort  growing  m  all  hot  Countries. 

Sbi^B.  FROM  thek  Mountains  we  crofs'd  the  Ifland  for  Cora,  where  we  had 
hopes  given  us  of  finding  fbme  antient  Infcriptions  ;  yet  we  met  with  no- 
thing but  a  few  Epitaphs  fince  the  Chriftian  iEra,  and  thofe  in  private  Houfes. 
The  Ladies  of  Cora  feeing  us  fo  intent  on  Plants,  brought  us  one,  and  caus'd 

Thymelza  feu  us  to  be  ask'd  if  we  knew  its  Virtues  :  it  was  very  like  that  call'd  Tarton- 

llni7<Ms*i-  rA're  at  Marfeilles.     After  thanking  them  for  their  Nofegay,  we  caus'd  'em 

gemeis.  coroi.  t0  be  told  they  were  in  too  good  a  Hate  of  Health  to  need  the  ufe  of  it. 

4*.  and  that  even  in  France  it  was  never  preicribed,  but  to  Perfons  of  the 

ftrongeft  Conftitution :  they  burft  into  a  Fit  of  Laughter,  and  pointed  to 

-  their  Head-drefs,  which  our  Interpreter  told  us  was  to  let  us  know  they 

made  ufe  of  this  Plant  to  dye  their  Veils  yellow.    A  moment  after,  he 

fhew'd  us  two  or  three  of  thefe  Ladies  fweeping  their  Terrace,  and 

s*{«j«*'ne^i  pointing  at  their  Brooms,  to  fignify  that  it  was  call'd  Broom-Herb.    When 

sTL^'a'  tney  u^e  "-  to  ^e  wit^  tney  ca^  tne  t0Ps  0^  t^ie  ^er^  iflto  boiling  Wa- 
jBroom.  ter  ;  after  fbme  Bubblings,  they  add  a  little '  Alom-Powder,  then  put  in 
'^'  the 


Defcription  of  the  Ijland  of  Samos.  325 

the  Linen,  Cloth,  or  Skins,  and  let  'em  foak  all  night,  off  the  fire :  it  Letter  X. 

dyes  a  very  good  Yellow,  but  I'm  of  opinion  a  more  per  fed:  Colour  might  v->r>l/r^^ 

be  made  of  it  by  more  skilful  hands.     This  Plant  differs  not  from  that 

on  the   Coafls  of  Provence,  only  its  Leaves  arc  narrower  and  longer. 

M.  Wheeler  has  obferv'd  the  difference.  ,    Voyage  into 

THE  24th  of  February^  maugre  the  bad  Weather,  we  got  to-  ^/vGm«)wm.i, 
defigning  to  embark  for  Scalanova,  and  fo  to  pafs  to  Smyrna ;  but  we  were 
detain'd  by  the  continual  Rains  and  contrary  Winds  at  Vati  till  the  middle 
of  March.  It  was  a  little  Deluge,  nothing  but  Torrents  running  down 
from  the  Mountains,  which  at  another  time  are  calcinM  in  a.  manner ; 
whence  its  Name  of  Samos,  i.  e.  a  dry  fandy  Soil.  s<««  quaff 

I N  the  interim  we  went  to  fee  a  handlbme  Village  call'd  Metelinous,  E/wa  geni- 
two  miles  off  Cora.    Metelinous  took  its  name  from  the  Iile  of  Metelin,  .,r£  lax  de' 

'  lectatur  arena, 

being  built,  or  rather  rebuilt,  by  a  Colony  of  Inhabitants  of  this  Ifland,  J™,  sat.  i<5. 
transported  thither  after  Sultan  Se lint  had  given  Samos  to  the  Captain-Bafhaw 
Ochiali.     Ever  fince  that  Admiral's  death,  the  Revenue  of  Samos  is  appro-  Relation  of 
priated  to  a  Mofque  he  caus'd  to  be  built  ztTopana,  one  of  the  Suburbs  of  voya«e.. 
Confiantinople  :  this  Mofque  ftill  bears  the  name  of  its  Founder,  and,  the 
Suburb  that  of  the  Artillery  which  is  caft  there ;  for  Top  in  Turktfh  fignL- 
fies  a  Cannon,  and  Hana  a  Houfe  :  thus  Top  ana,  is  an  Arfenal  or  Foundery 
for  Cannon. 

THE  Spring  of  Metilonous  is  the  belt  in  the  Ifland,  and  mud  be  one  Giganho  &> 
of  thofe  two  mention'd  by  Pliny.     I  make  no  doubt  it  was  conducted  to  Natc.  hIjl, 
the  Town  of  Samos,  crofs  the  Mountain  mention'd  by  Herodotus :  this  /,^"3*~ 
Author  calls  it  the  great  Spring,  and  the  Mountain  is  between  Metelinous 
and  the  Ruins  of  Samos.    The  Difpofition  of  the  Places  proved  perfectly 
favourable,  the  moment  they  had  conquer'd  the  difficulty  of  boring  it  j 
but  in  all  probability  they  were  not  exact  enough,  in  levelling  the  ground, 
for  they  were  obliged  to  dig  a  Canal  of  twenty  Cubits  deep,,  for  carrying 
the  Spring  to  the  place  defign'd :  There  mud  have  been  fbme  miftake  in 
this  PaiTage  of  Herodotus.    Jofeph  Georgirene,  Biihop  of  Samos,  was  no 
doubt  a  very  diligent  Inquirer  into  all  thefe  things  ;  but  the  Defcription  he 
has  given  of  Samos,  Nicaria>  and  Patmos,  is  fo.  fcarce,;  tho  tranflated  out 
cf  vulgar  Greek  into.  Englifh,  that  I  have  not  been  able  to  procure  if.. 

*  AT 


326  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

AT  the  corner  of  the  Church  of  Metelinous  before  this  Spring,  is  fee 
in  bread-high  an  antient  Bas-Relief  of  Marble,  perfe&ly  fine,  which  a 
Papas  found  fome  years  ago,  digging  up  a  Field :  it  is  two  feet  four  inches 
long,  fifteen  or   fixteen  inches  high,  three  inches  thick,  but  lying  low 
to  the   ground,  the  heads  of  it  are  extremely  batter'd.     The  Bas-Relief 
contains  feven  Figures,  and  reprefents  the  Ceremony  of  imploring  the 
Succour  of  Efculapius  in  the  cale  of  feme  fick  Man  of  Quality  :  he  is  fit- 
ting up  in  his  Bed,  his  Head  and  Breaft  rais'd,  holding  a  Pitcher  by  both 
Handles ;  the  God  of  Phyfick  is  leen  on  his  right  hand,  towards  the  Bed's- 
feet,  in  the  fhape  of  a  Serpent :  the  Table,  which  is  right  againlr.  the  Pa- 
tient, and  (landing  on  three  feet  like  Goats-feet,  is  fpread  with  a  Pine- 
Apple,  two  Flaggons,  and  two  things  like  Pyramids  placed  at  each  end. 
On  the  right,  fits  a  Woman  in  an  Elbow-Chair  with  a  very  high  back  to 
it ;  the  Drapery  of  this  Figure  is  very  good,  and  the  Sleeves  fit  pretty 
tight :  her  Face  fronts  ye,  and  ihe  feems  to  be  giving  directions  to  a  He- 
Slave  clofe  by  her,  and  who  is  habited  in  a  loofe  Coat  over  a  Veil.     At 
the  foot  of  the  Bed  is  another  Woman  fitting  on  a  low  Stool,  cover'd 
to  the  ground  with  Cloth  :  fhe  is  habited  like  her  in  the  Elbow-Chair,  but 
you  only  fee  her  fideways ;  this  perhaps  is  the  fick  Man's  Wife,  for  there 
Hands  before  her  a  young  Child  naked,  with  a  Dog  fawning  about  him. 
A  young  She-Slave  is  alio  placed  behind  this  Woman,  and  is  drefs'd  in  a 
Ihort  Coat  without  Sleeves,  under  which  falls  a  fort  of  Under-Petticoat 
full  of  Pleats  :  Ihe  reds  her  left  hand  on  her  Breaft,  and  in  her  right, 
which  is  eredt,  Ihe  holds  a  Heart  with  the  point  upwards.     Farther  off 
at  the  extremity  of  the  Bas-Relief,  is  feen  another  He-Slave  Hark  naked 
who  with  one  hand  is  taking  Drugs  out  of  a  Mortar,  to  put  'em  in  a 
Cup  which  he  has  in  the  other  hand,  and  to  whom  EfcuUpius  leems  to  be 
giving  order  to  pour  them  into  the  VelTel  held  by  the  Patient.     Along 
the  top  of  the  Bas-Relief  runs  a  kind  of  Border,  broken,  and  divided 
into  four  long  fquare  Pannels  :  in  the  full  is  reprelented  a  very  fine  Head 
of  a  Horfe ;  the  fecond  contains  two  Flames ;  the  third  is  adorn'd  with  a 
Helmet  and  Cuirafs ;  the  fourth  is  broken,  and  leaves  nothing  to  be  leen 
but  the  Rim  of  a  Buckler.     Doubtlels  thefe  Attributes  were  intended  to 
fet  forth  the  Inclinations  and  Employments  of  the  Patient. 

WHILE 


Defer ipt ion  of  the  Ijland  of  Samos.  227 

WHILE  we  were  confideriug  the  Beauty  or'  this  Bas-Relief,  they  Letter  X. 
prefented  us  with  fome  Medals;  the  bed  whereof  was  that  of  the  famed  v-/~v  v-' 
Pythagoras,  who  will  be  for  ever  an  Honour  to  this  Ifland,  on  account  of 
the  Rank  he  held  among  the  antient  Philoiophers  :  but  I'll  be  fworn  there 
are  none  of  his  Difciples  now  left  in  Samos ;  for  the  Samians  are  no  more 
fond  of  fading,  than  they're  Lovers   of  Silence.     The  Medal  we  are 
(peaking  of,  has  the  Head  of  Trajan :  Pythagoras  is  on  the  Reverie,  fitting  TPA.IANOC 
before  a  Column,  which  bears  a  Globe,  on  which  that  Philoibpher  feems  Legend. 
to  be  pointing  to  fomething  with  his  Right  Hand.     The  fame  Type  is  in"^®*™; 
Tulvim  Vrfimu.  but  Pythagoras  refls  his  Left  Hand  on  the  Globe.     TheMIQN- 

ATTOKPA- 

like  Medals  are  alfo  feen  with  the  Heads  of  CaracalU  and  EtrufcrlU,  the  thp  kai- 
fairefl  I  ever  law  in  the  King's  Cabinet,  ftruck  with  a  Commodus  on  it,  and  Kos  atph- 
on  the  Reverfe  Pythagoras  pointing  with  a  Rod  to  a  Star  on  a  Celeitial  ^'° 20K0/c" 
Globe:  this  mud  be  the  Star  of  Venus,  which  he  was  the  firft  Difcoverer  bastos. 
of,  as- we  are  told  by  Pliny.  Hid.  Nat. 

O  N  the  left  hand  of  the  Spring  of  Metilonous,  is  an  Infcription  whofe  I,b* 2' cap" 8* 
Characters  have  the  appearance  of  being  well  done  ;  but  they  are  not 
now  legible  :  perhaps  the  Name  of  the  Spring  may  be  pick'd  out  by  fome 
abler  Heads;  perhaps  too  this  Infcription  records  the  Names  of  thole, 
who  undertook  to  convey  this  beautiful  Spring  to  Samos.  This  Spring 
at  prefent,  falls  into  a  little  Brook,  that  empties  it  felf  in  the  Port  of 

Tigani. 

A  T  length,  not  knowing  how  to  diipofe  of  our  time,  we  made  an 
inquiry  among  fome  of  the  moll  eminent  Men  of  the  Ifland,  concerning 
a  pretended  Light  which  the  Mariners  fancy  they  fee  in  the  Cape  of  Sa- 
tnos  when  they're  out  at  Sea,  and  which  is  invifible  on  fhore.  Thefe 
Doctors  allured  us,  it  appear'd  in  fo  deep  a  place,  that  no  Perlon  could  be 
fufpe&ed  to  inhabit  there,  and  that  this  Fire  mud  needs  be  miraculous : 
for  my  part,  I  am  perfuaded  of  the  contrary ;  and  luppofing  that  any 
fuch  Fire  was  ever  perceiv'd,  I  doubt  not  but  it  was  kindled  either  by 
the  Caloyers  or  Shepherds,  partly  to  divert  themfelves,  and  partly  to 
preferve  the  memory  of  a  thing  the  Papas  of  the  Ifland  call  a  great  Miracle.  uiy*s  s«fy<*. 

W  E  catch'd  at  a  Glance  of  the  Sun,  to  make  our  Geographical  Re- 
marks. 

ScaUnova,  is  between  the  North- Eaft  and  Ead. 

Cape 


528  ^Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Cape  Coraca,  between  the  North  and  North-North-Weft. 

Cape  Blanc  between  the  North- Weft  and  the  North-North-Weft. 

Seh  North- Weft. 

Patmos  between  the  South  and  South-South- Weft. 

StAgi  North. 

Ephefus  North-Eaft. 

The  higheft  Top  of  Mycale  or  Samfon,  between  the  Eaft  and  Eaft- 
South-Eaft. 

The  Ifle  of  Arco  between  the  South-South-Weft  and  the  South- Weft. 

Gatonifi  South. 

Cos  or  StAnchio  between  the  South  and  the  South-South-Eaft. 

PaIaua  or  Miletus  South-South-Eaft. 
THIS,  my  Lord,  is  all  I  have  to  fay  touching  the  Ifland  of  Samos, 
We  muft  return  to  Port  SeitAn-,  to  give  an  account  of  4our  Voyage 
to  VAtmos.  Notwithstanding  our  Eagernefs  to  go  to  Nicaria,  we  were 
fain  to  tarry  in  this  Port,  for  want  of  a  fair  Wind ;  Co  we  refolv'd  to  range. 
11702.  the  Coaft  and  Cape  of  Samos  in  the  mean  time :  this  Cape  is  ten  miles 
from  Seitan.  Our  defign  was  to  enter  the  greater  Boghas,  which  is  be- 
tween this  Ifland  and  that  call'd  the  Great  Fourni. 

. 
■Patmos.        THEY  reckon  forty  miles  from  the  Cape  of  Samos  to  the  Ifle  of 

PAtmoSy  now  call'd  PAtino :  we  caft  anchor  in  Port  de  la  ScaIa,  which  is 
one  of  the  fineft  Ports  throughout  the  Archipelago,  and  faces  the  North. 
Weft  and  the  Eaft.  That  of  Gricou  is  likewife  an  admirable  one,  it  is  in 
the  South-Eaft,  and  has  two  Openings  form'd  by  a  Rock  juft  at  the  En- 
trance :  one  of  thefe  Openings  is  turn'd  to  the  South-Eaft,  and  the  other 
to  the  North- Weft.  Saj>[iU  is  another  good  Port,  between  that  of  ScaIa 
and  Gricouy  but  expos'd  to  the  North :  the  Port  of  DiAcorti,  which  is  in 
the  South-Eaft  of  the  Ifland,  and  into  which  the  South  and  Labech  blow 
fo  as  to  hinder  the  coming  out,  is  not  fit  for  Barks,  any  more  than  that 
of  MericA,  which  is  turn'd  to  the  Miftral,  and  which  is  on  the  Weft  of 
that  of  Ia  ScaIa, 

PATMOS  is  confiderable  for  its  Ports,  but  its  Inhabitants  are  not 
much  the  better  for  'em.  The  Corfairs  have  obliged  'em  to  quit  the  Town 
which  was  in  the  Port  of  Ia  ScaIa,  and  to  retire  two  miles  and  a  half,  up 
the  Hill  about  St.  Jobtfs  Convent, 

THIS 


Pitino. 


AY..T. 


ISZE  of  R1THMOS 


Fa^Sn  8 


Oaite  (/"/«■('  /Kile*  i/r.<  A. 


7* 


s* 


Defer Ipt ion  of  the  Ifland  of  Patmos.  329 

THIS  Convent  is  as  a  Citadel,  confiding  of  feveral  irregular  Towc-iS;  Letter  X. 
it  is  a  very  fubftantial  Building,  on  a  very  fteep  Rock  :  we  were  told,  that  *-*^"v"*^-» 
the  Emperor  Alexis  Comnenes  was  the  Founder  of  this  Monaftery.     Its 
Chappel  is  linall,  and  painted  after  the  Greek  manner,  than  which  no- 
thing can  be  more  paltry  :  the  Sexton  made  us  pay  a  Crown  for  mew- 
ing us  the  Body  of  St.  ChriJtodulttSy  that  is,  Servant  of  Christ ;  they  be-  'Aj!ot  xe^- 
liev'd  that  it  was  at  this  Saint's  perfuafion  the  Emperor  caus'd  the  Home  *** 
to  be  built.     This  good  Father  for  t'other  Crown  would  tain  have  drawn  \ 
out  the  Shrine,  to  let  us  fee  they  had  the  whole  Body ;  but  we  had  enough 
of  his  Head  and  Face.     This  Convent  has  an  Income  of  6coo  Crowns: 
the  Church-Plate  is  very  handfome ;  but  their  greateft  Rarity  of  all  is 
two  large  Bells  over  the  Gate-way,  for  in  the  Levant  it  is  a  very  extraor- 
dinary thing  to  meet  with  a  large  Bell.     But  the  Turks  having  a  Veneration 
for  St.  John,  they  allow  the  Caloyers  of  Patmos  the  liberty  of  this  ad- 
vantage :  there  are  above  a  hundred  Caloyers  in  this  Monaftery,  but  ge- 
nerally not  above  fixty  are  refident,  the  reft  are  looking  after  their  Farms 
in  the  neighbouring  Iflands. 

T HE  Iile  of  Patmos  is  one  of  the  bafeft  Rocks  in  all  the  Archipelago ; 
it  is  bleak,  uncover'd,  without  Wood,  and  very  barren :  it  is  indeed  re- 
plenifh'd  with  Hills  and  Mountains,  the  higheft  whereof  is  call'd  St..  Eli- 
jah. "John  Cameniatesy  who  was  one  of  the  Slaves  whom  the  Saracens 
made  at  the  taking  of  Thejfalonica  his  native  Place,  and  conducted  to  Can-  Ann.  904. 
dia.  affirms  that  thele  unfortunate  Wretches  tarry'd  fix  days  at  Patmos,  *rJ£t*$«^ 

'  •>  J  '  Id  TH  7VTH  i- 

and  had  not  Water  to  drink :  they  might  have  fared  well,  had  they  been  ««'£*»»  rh 
fuffer'd  to  hunt ;  for  the  Ifland  abounds  with  Partridges,  Rabbits,  Quails^ ,',  j}\*..  cn- 
Turtles,  Pidgeons,  Snipes:  it  does  not  produce  much  Wheat  or  BarJjey  \ dd/Thej&i. 
they  have  their  Wine  from  Santorin,  for  the  Growth  of  Patmos  Icarce  "P' 6S# 
amounts  to  1000  Barrels.     They  practifc  Caprification  on  the  Fig-Trees, 
but  there  arc  not  many  of  'em :  fo  that  the  whole  Bufincfs  of  the  Iiland 
confiftsin  the  Induftry  of  the  Inhabitants,  who  with  a  dozen  of  Caicks, 
or  other.fmall  Boats,  go  and  fetch  Corn  on  the  Terra-firma,  and  even  as 
far  as  the  Coafts  of  the  Black  Sea,  for  Cargoes  to  the  French  Ships. 

THE  Ifland  of  Patmos  is  but  eighteen  miles  in  compais:  it  may  be 
reckoii'd  twice  as  much,  including  all  the  in-and-out  Windings  from  Cape  VMmos  ™m 

0  D  r     ru  triginta  ra 

to  Cape  ;  fo  that  Plinj  may  be  forgiven,  for  making  it  thirty  miles  in  cir- 1«  paifami. 

T7    t    t  it  -  Plm.Hift.Nat. 

v  01.  I.  U  xi  cumicrcncc. ; . . ■  .  ■,„. . ; , 


33< 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

cumference.  Patmos  is  fixty  miles  diftance  from  the  Ifles  of  Cos,  Sum- 
palfa,  and  My  cone ;  it  is  but  eighteen  miles  from  hero,  and  forty  five  from 
pjic&ria. 

THERE  are  hardly  500  Men  in  Patmos,  and  to  one  Man  there  are  at 
Ieafl  twenty  Women  :  they  are  naturally  pretty,  but  disfigure  themfelves 
fo  with  Paint,  they  are  really  frightful ;  yet  that  is  far  from  their  Inten- 
tion, for  ever  fince  a  certain  Merchant  of  Marfeitles  inarry'd  one  of  'em 
for  her  Beauty,  they  fancy  there's  not  a  Stranger  comes  thither  but  to 
make  the  like  Purchaie.  They  look'd  upon  us  as  very  odd  Fellows,  and 
feem'd  to  be  mightily  furpriz'd  when  they  were  told  we  only  came  to  fearch 
for  Plants  ',  for  they  imagin'd,  on  our  arrival,  we  would  carry  into  France 
at  lead  a  dozen  of  Wives.  It  is  ftrange,  that  in  fb  poor  a  Country  the 
Hoivfes  are  better  built  than  in  the  Iflands  where  there's  more  Trade: 
the  Chappels  are  arch'd  over,  and  very  neatly  cover'd ;  they  reckon  above 
250  of  them  in  the  Ifland,  yet  there  were  but  nine  or  ten  Papas  when  we 
were  there,  the  Plague  having  fwept  away  the  others,  as  we  were  told- 
Tho  theBifliop  of  Santos  calls  himfelf  Bilhop  of  Patmos,  yet  they  fetch 
what  Bilhop  they  think  fit,  when  they  are  minded  to  confecrare  any 
Papas. 

THE  Civil  Affairs  are  managed  by  two  Adminiftrators,  chofen  every 
year  ;  thefe  levy  the  Capitation,  which  amounts  to  800  Crowns,  and  the 
Land-Tax,  which  is  200,  without  including  the  Prefents  that  mull:  be 
made  to  the  Captain-Balhaw  and  his  Officers,  when  they  come  to  receive 
the  Grand  Signior's  Dues.     There  are  neither  Turks  nor  Latins  in  this 
Ifland :  the  Conlul  of  France's  Office  is  perform'd  by  a  Greek,  tho  he  has 
no  Patent  or  Power  for  fo  doing.     He  told  us,  that  purely  to  do  the  Na- 
tion ferviee  his  Family  had  taken  upon  them  thar  Office  for  three  Genera- 
tions from  Father  to  Son,  by  virtue  of  an  old  Parchment- Writing  in  fome  of 
our  Kings  Reign,  they  know  not  which  ;  we  judg'd  it  might  be  Henry  IV. 
By  fome  Accident  or  other,  this  Parchment  was  not  to  be  found  when  we 
defiredto  lee  it.     This  fame  Conlul  is  a  good  lort  of  Man  -r  all  Strangers 
addrefs  themlelves  to  him,  and  in  cafe  of  need  he  would  take  upon  him 
to  be  Conlul  of  all  Nations  that  come  thither  :  he  lofes  nothing  by  it ;  for 
if  we  were  well  received  in  his  Houfe,  it  colt  us  more  than  it  would  have 
done  any  where  elfe.    They  don't  fpeak  French  at  his  Houfe,  but  Hammer 

*  * 


AV.  /. 


Tay.33o. 


+  -+-   'Jru  iVu/iAj  of y  JiwA  iArv  n'6/M.  y  fi&/y  iffo/h  is /hid  to  Aav*  dJ4€&&&&(-  £0  SrJ<?/?si- 


Defcription  of  the  Ifland  of  Patmos.  33 r 

a  fort  of  Provenfal ;  and  as  the  Inhabitants  of  the  Ifland  are  all  of  the  Letter  X. 

Greek  Rite,  we  had  pafs'd  our  time  but  very  ill  with  them,  had  not  the  ^"v****** 

Ladies  reforted  hither  to  us,  under  pretence  of  picking  and  cleanfing  the 

Plants  we  brought  from  out  of  the  Country.     There  arc  not  any  Reliques 

of  note  in  this  Ifland  ;  only  three  or  four  Stumps  of  Marble  Columns  in 

the  Port  of  la  Scda :  they  feem  to  be  of  a  good  defign,  and  are  certainly 

the  antientefl  in  the  Archipelago,  where  they  have  long  fince  forborn  amu- 

fing  themfelves  with  fuch  things  :  it  is  not  unlikely  thefe  are  the  Relicks 

of  lbme  Temple  of  the  chief  Town  which  bore  the  Name  of  the  Ifland, 

according  to  Galen's  Remark.     In  the  Porch  of  St.  John's  Church,  there's 

an  Infcription,  but  Time  has  render'd  it  illegible,  as  it  has  another  in 

the  Nave. 

THE  Houfe  call'd  the  Apocalyfpe  is  a  poor  Hermitage,  depending  on  AnoKA- 
the  great  Convent  of  St.  John.    The  Superior  has  given  it  for  Life,  for  200 
Crowns,  to  an  antient  Bifliop  of  Samos,  who  received  us  very  civilly :  this 
is  thought  to  be  the  Place  where  St.  John  wrote  the  Revelations ;  perhaps 
fo,  for  that  Holy  Evangelift  fays  it  was  in  the  Ifland  of  Patmos,  whither 
he  was  baninVd  in  the  Perfecution  of  Domitian,  which  began  Anno  95.  Ghrcx  Ann- 
after  Chrift.     The  fame  Year  St.  John  was  dipt  into  a  Cauldron  of  boil-  JJ^  Ann. 
ing  Oil  at  Rome,  and  then  banifiYd  to  Patmos.     The  next  Year  Domitian  1,b- ll- 
was  kill'd  on  the  18th  of  September,    a  Year  after  the  Baniihment  ofp^cLHift! 
St.  John :  but  the  Senate  having  annull'd  what  he  had  done,  Nerva  re- 
call'd  all  thofe  that  were  banifh'd ;  and  thus  that  Evangelift  return'd  to 
Ephefus  in  February  or  March,  Anno  97.  and  his  Exile  lafted  but  eighteen 
Months.     The  Author  of  the  Chronkon  Pafchale  makes  St.  John  continue 
in  Patmos  fifteen  Years,  and  St.  Iren<ew  fixes  it  at  five  Years.     St.  Fitfo-  Biblioth.  Patr. 
rinus  Bifliop  of  Pettau,  and  Primatius  a  Bifliop  in  Africa,  affirm  St.  John  to  fr"1,'^'^79' 
have  been  lent  to  Patmos,  to  work  in  certain  Mines  there,  now  unknown.    Comment,  in 

THE  Hermitage  of  the  Apocalypfe  is  on  the  fide  of  a  Mountain  fitua-  P°C 
ted  between  the  Convent  and  the  Port  de  la  Scala.  The  way  to  it  is  very 
narrow,  cut  half-way  in  the  Rock,  and  leads  to  the  Chappel ;  this  Chap- 
pel  is  not  above  eight  or  nine  paces  long,  and  five  broad;  the  Arch -Work, 
tho  of  the  Gothick,  is  pretty  enough :  on  the  right  is  St.  John's  Grotto, 
the  Entrance  whereof  is  about  feven  foot  high,  with  a  fquare  Pillar  in 
the  middle.     Over-head  they  fliew  Strangers  a  TilTure  or  Chink  in  the 

U  u  2  quick 


gas  A  Vo  y  a  g  e  zWo  *Af  Levant. 

quick  Rock,  through  which,  they  tell  ye,  the  Holy  Ghoft  dictated  to 
St.  John,  when  he  wrote  the  Apocalypfe :  the  Grotto  is  low,  and  has  no- 
thing remarkable.  The  Superior  prefenting  us  with  fome  pieces  of  this 
Rock,  aflured  us  they  had  the  Virtue  to  expel  evil  Spirits,  and  cure  di- 
vers and  iiindry  Difeafes ;  in  return,  I  gave  him  fome  PiluU  Febrifuge 
which  he  had  no  little  occafion  for,  to  expel  an  Ague  that  had  hung  upon 
him  fome  months. 

W  E  went  once  more  to  the  grand  Convent  of  St.  John,  to  make  a 
Geographical  Station; 

Lero  is  between  the  South-Eaft  and  Eaft-South-Eaft 

Lipfo  Eaft. 

Calimno  South-Eaft. 

Auaria  North-Weft. 

Jrco  between  the  North-Eaft  and  Eaft-North-Eaft.  • 

WE  departed  from  Patmos  the  15th  of  February  in  moft  ferene  Wea* 
ther,  which  at  this  time  of  the  Year  is  much  to  be  fuipe&ed,  being  ge- 
nerally a  Prognoftick  of  a  Storm  ;  our  Defign  was  to  pafs  over  to  Nic&- 
Skoc  ria :  the  South-Eaft  was  fo  bluftering,  we  were  obliged  to  put  in  at  St.  Mi- 

'A*"z&*lur- f}ai>  one  °^  tne  *^cs  °^  F°urf2h  where  we  happily  arrived  about  Evening. 
tyr,_u-bofe  Nex-t  day  the  Wind  increafing,  we  went  a  fimpling  through  a  Storm  of 
celebrate  on  Rain,  Hail,  Thunder  and  Lightning  ;  and  in  the  Evening  return'd,  laden 
Becemb,  10.  ^^  curjous  piants .  buC  as  there  are  no  Caverns  in  this  IfJand,  or  ar 

leaft  none  that  we  could  find,  our  Seamen,,  to  lecurcus  from  the  Weather? 
had  bufy'd  themfelves  all  the  day  in  taking  to  pieces  an  old  French  Bark 
that  had  been  lately  caft  on  the  more  by  a  Tempeft.  With  the  Remains 
of  this  Veffel  we  eredted  a  lorry  Hut,  which  let  in  the  Rain  on  all  fides  ; 
and  what  was  ft  ill  worle,  a  Hidden  Guft  of  Wind  over-fet  our  Edifice, 
when  we  thought  our  lelves  mod  lecure.  We  were  forced  once  more  to 
let  it  up,  with  huge  Stones  placed  on  it,  to  prevent  the  like  Difafter-: 
weftopt  theDoon-way  with  the  Sail  of  our  Caick,  but  were  under  con- 
tinual apprehenfion  of  having  our  Roof  of  Planks  bore  away  by  a  Hur- 
ricane, and  our  Brains  beat  out  by  the  Stones. 

THE  third  day,  which  was  Febr.  17.  having  nothing  to  eat  but  Bif- 
ket,  nor  to  drink  but  Rain-Water,  which  pour'd  down  from  the  Rocks 

full 


Defcription  of  the  IJlands  of  .Fourni.  jaj 

foil  of  Mild,  we  made  an  Eflay  to  get  aboard,  and  had  like  to  have  been  Letter  X. 
fwallow'd  up  by  the  Sea;  the  Billows  whereof  taking  our  Caick  in  flank,***"^^ 
very  near  turn'd  it  Keel  upward  more  than  once,  notwithstanding  our 
Sail,  which  was  of  little  ufe  to  us  againfl  the  Fury  of  the  Wind.  You 
may  be  fure  we  were  not  very  ealy  in  a  Boat  but  fifteen  foot  long,  with 
three  ignorant  Fellows  to  manage  it,  and  who  were  almoft  frighted  out 
of  their  wits :  one  row'd,  another  fteerM,  the  third  ply'd  the  Sail; 
while  we  empty'd  out  the  Water  with  our  Hats. 

OUR  Fear  redoubled  at  the. fight  of  lome Citrons  which  came  floaw 
ing  on  the  Water,  in.  token  of  a  Shipwreck;  which  happen'd  to  be  of 
a  large  Caick,  withibme  of  whofe  Crew  we  had  been  drinking  the  day 
before.  They  trailed  to  the  Goodnefs  of  their  Veflel,  being  quite  new ; 
but  having,  no  Compafs,  any  more  than  we  had,  and  not  having  a  clear 
fight  of.  the  Cape  ©f  Samos,  they  fplit  on  the  Rocks.  We  then  held  a 
Council,  and  after  mature  Deliberation,  mftead  of  going  to  Nicaria,  W4 
thought  our  befl  way  would  be  to  double  the  Cape  of  Samos  ;  as  good> 
luck  would  have  it,  we  gain'd  the  North  of  the  Ifland,  where  we  found 
the  Sea  as  fmooth  as  Oil,  according  to  the  Seamens  Phrafe  in  a  Calms. 
We  call  anchor  at  Carlovajji, .  and  fent  for  lbme  Papas  to  come  and  fay  Mais 
in  way  of  Thanklgiving. 

THE  Ifle  of  St.  Mm  as  is  in  the  grand  Boghas  between  Samos  and 
Nicaria,  below  the  grand  Fourni :  all  the  Ifles  to  the  Leeward  are  calFd 
Fourni,  becauie  the  Greeks,  as  we  faid  before,  fancy  their  Ports,  which 
are  better  than  ordinary,  to  be  fhaped  like  an  Oven.  Thefe  Iflandsi  are 
calPd  by  the  Geographers  Cruftar  Tragia,  Dipfo,  Ponelli ;  but  the  Greeks 
know  nothing. of  theie  Names:,  at  leaft  our  Sailors,  tho  Natives  of  the 
Place,  never  heard  of  any  fuch.  True  it  is,  there's  an  Ifland  call'd  L/pj6 
eight  miles  from  Patmos,  and  confequently  a  good  diftance  from  the  : 
Iflands  of  Fourni^  Thofe  neareft  the  grand  Boghas,  are  the  grand.  Fourni, 
St.  Minos,  or  the  little  Fourni,  Fimena  :  the. others  are  Jlacbopetra,  Prafa- 
nifi,  Coucounes,  Airopofages,  Agnid.ro,.  Strongylo,  Daxalo,  and  many  more  - 
which  have  no  name,  making  in  all  about  eighteen  or  twenty,  but  not 
any  one  of  'em  inhabited. 

THAT  of  St.  Minas  is  not  above  five  or  fix  miles  in  compafs ;  it  is 
in  form  like  an  Afs's  Back,,  and  confifts  as  one  may  fay  of  two  parts ;  that 


facing; . 


33+ 


A  *Vo  y  A  g  e  into  the  Levant. 


facing  Patmos  is  of  ordinary  Stone,  cover' d  over  with  Mould  and  Under- 
wood ;  the  other,  which  feems  to  be  glued  to  it,  is  of  the  moll:  uncom- 
mon Marble  I  ever  faw  :  and  'tis  in  the  Chinks  of  this  Marble  where  the 
convolvulus    belt  Hants  of  the  Ifland  grow  ;  among  others,  the  Liferon,  (Bind-weed) 
Sra™' .*  Shrub  with  Leaves  filver'd  o'er,  like  thofe  of  the  Olive. 
ms.Mfi.sti        MOST  of  the  other  Iflands  are  long,  narrow,  and  travcrs'd  through 
iiorycnium.     with  a  Ridge  of  Mountains :  Candia,  Samos,  Nicaria,  Patmos,  Macronifi, 
JS"!  f"''  arc  of  this  form.     It  feems  as  if  the  lower  Country  being  of  a  moveable 
Foundation  had  been  gradually  carry'd  away  by  the  Sea,  and  nothing  left 
but  the  Ruins  of  the  Mountains  which  refilled  the  Force  of  the  Waves. 

t5-K?p.os.  l  SHOULD  here  conclude  my  Account  of  the  Archipelago,  but  that 
1  lBuft  intreat  a  few  more  moments  of  your  Lordfhip's  Attention  in  favour 
of  Thefeus  and  Achilles,  fo  far  as  concerns  the  Ifland  of  Skyros  •  where  the 
former  was  bury'd,  and  the  latter  made  love :  tho  it  is  very  remote  from 
Samos,  and  we  faw  it  not  till  our  Return  from  Smyrna  to  Marjeilles,  yet 
I'm  apt  to  think  it  would  be  better  to  fpeak  here  of  it,  than  to  feparate  it 
!  SL«:h.  from  the  other  Illands  of  the  Archipelago.     The'  PeUfgtms  and  the  Ca- 

rinas were  the  firft  Inhabitants  of  Skyros ;  but  we  find  it  not  in  Hiftory, 
s  pimaioh.  in  before  the  Reign  of  Lycomed.es,  who  ruled  there  when  2  Thefeus  King  of 
Th?£  Athens  retired  thither  to  enjoy  the  EolTeffions  of  his  Father.     The f  us  not 

only  demanded  the  Reftitution  of  his  Patrimony,  but  liied  for  Aid  of  the 
King,  againft  the  Athenians :  but  Lycomedes,  either  through  apprehenfion 
of  that  Great  Man's  fuperior  Genius,  or  becaufe  he  would  not  fall  out 
with  Mnefiheus,  who  had  forced  him  from  Athens,  led  Thefeus  to  the  top 
of  a  Rock,  under  pretext  of  fhewing  him  his  Father's  Lands ;  but  Hiftory 
records,  he  caus'd  him  to  be  call  head-long  from  the  Rock.     Some  fay 
Thefeus  fell  off*  accidentally,  as  he  was  taking  the  Air  after  Supper :  be  it 
as 'twill,  his  Children,  whom  he  had  fent  into  the  Ifland  Eubea,  went  to 
the  War  of  Troy,  and  reign'd  at  Athens  after  the  death  of  Mnefiheus. 
Rer.  Geog.         THE    Ifle   of  Skyros  became  famous,    fays  Strabo,   by  the  Alliance 
^Eneid.  ?T      which  Achilles  flruck  up  there  with  Lycomedes,  by  Marriage  with  Deidamia 
nmit  rufus.  n*s  Daughter,  by  whom  he  had  Neoptolemus,  call'd  Pyrrhus  on  account  of 
his  yellow  Hair.    He  was  bred  in  the  Ifland,  from  whence  he  drew  the  beft 
Soldiers  that  he  carry'd  to  the  War  of  Troy,  to  revenge  his  Father's  Death. 

The 


/■U~r. 


1/U  of 
SKYROS 


Jh^  .334. 


Defer iption  of  the  Ifland  of  Skyros.  335 

The  People  of  this  Ifland  were  very  warlike :  Pallas  was  the  Protectrefs  Letter  X. 
of  the  Country  ;  her  Temple  flood  on  the  edge  of  the  Sea,  in  the  Town  p^jnQ^ 
that  bore  the  fame  Name  with  the  Ifland.     Of  that  Temple,  there  ftillce,el?l'abatSk>_ 

1  _  ros  nonoram 

remain  fbme  bits  of  Columns,  and  Cornifhes  of  white  Marble  clofe  by  a  Fo«e  diem. 
forfaken  Chappel,  on  the  left  hand  going  into  Port  St.  George :  we  could  utdi  /,-//,',* 
find  no  Infcription,  but  by  the  old  Foundations  and  the  Beauty  of  the  ^&i  nm 
Port,  we  may  be  pretty  fure  the  Town  flood  there.     If  they  be  not  «feS>.3<  Up.  13! 
Relicks  of  the  Temple  of  Pallas,  they  are  at  leafl  thofe  of  that  of  Nep- 
tune, who  was  worfhip'd  here.     Goltzius  has  given  the  Type  of  a  Me-  SKtppiaw, 
dal,  with  Neptune  holding  his  Trident  on  one  fide,  and  on  the  other  the 
Prow  of  a  Ship. 

AFTER  the  War  of  Troy,  the  Athenians  perform'd  great  Honours  to 
the  Memory  of  Thefeus,  and  recogniz'd  him  for  a  Hero;  nay,  they  were  Plutarch.  ia--i 
commanded  by  the  Oracle  to  gather  up  his  Bones,  and  preferve  them 
with  reverence.     Marcian  of  Heraclea  affirms  that  the  People  of  Chalcis, 
the  Capital  of  Eubea,  fettled  themfelves  at  Skyros,  being  allured  'tis  like  by 
the  Convenience  of  its  Port.     Going  through  this  Ifland,  I  bought  a  ; 
filver  Medal,  which  was  fbme  years  ago  dug  up  among  the  Ruins  of  the 
Town  as  they  were  at  plough  ;  it  is  flruck  in  the  name  of  the  Chalcidians, 
who  tho  Inhabitants   of  Skyros,   yet  retain'd  the  Name  of  their  own 
Country,  to  diflinguifh  themfelves  from  the  Pelafgians,  the  Dolopes,  and 
others  who  were  come  and  fettled  at  Skyros  i  this  Medal  is  flamp'd  with 
>  beautiful  Head,  but  whofe  I  know  not,  the  Name  being  quite  worn 
away ;  on  the  Reverfe  is  a  Lyre.     This  Piece  bearing  the  Name  of  the 
Chalcidians,  one  would  not  believe  it  to  have  been  flruck  at  Skyros,  had  it  xAAxfot. 
not  been  dug  up  there.  iiN* 

NOW  Pm  fpeaking  of  the  Dolopes,  Plutarch  takes  notice  of  'em  as  %?yl-mi  kzm) 
forry  Husbandmen,  but  eminent  Pirates,  whole  common  practice  it  was mcimon?" 
to  rifle  and  imprifon  fuch  as  came  to  traffick  with  'em.     Some  of  thefe 
Villains  having  been  fentenced  to  reflore  their  ill-gotten  Goods  to  the 
Merchants  of  The J] "aly,  to  avoid  doing  it,  they  fignify'd  to  Cimon,  SbAThtaydiiib.j.i 
of  Mihiades,  that  they  would  furrender  to  him  the  City  of  Skyros,  if  he 
would  but  come  before  it  with  his  Fleet :  by  which  means  he  became 
Mailer  of  the  Place.    Diodorus  Skulks  adds,  that  in  this  Expedition  the  Bfbiioth.  wttjA 

Ifland  ,ib'li' 


^6  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Ifland  was  caft  lots  for,  and  that  the  Pelafgians  heretofore  poflefs'd  it  con- 
jointly with  the  Dolopes. 

CI  MO  N  ufed  his  utmoft:  endeavours  to  find  out  where  they  had  bury'd 
the  Bones  of  Thefeus :  at  length  an  Eagle  was  feen  fcratching  the  Earth 
with  his  Beak  and  Talons  on  a  fmall  Hillock  ;  which  moved 'em  to  fearch 
the  fame  place,  where  they  found  the  Coffin  of  a  tall  proper  Man,  with 
his  Sword  and  Pike  lying  by  him :  this  was  enough.  Plutarch  (in  his 
Life  of  Thefeus)  does  not  lay  whether  they  were  the  Arms  of  an  Athenian, 
a  Carian,  a  Pelafgian,  or  a  Dolopian.  They  made  no  further  fearch,  but 
lent  away  this  Coffin  to  Athens  400  years  after  that  Hero's  death.  The 
Remains  of  fo  great  a  Man  were  received  with  great  Demonftrations  of 
Joy ;  they  even  offer' d  Sacrifices  on  that  occafion  :  the  Coffin  or  Bier 
was  placed  in  the  heart  of  the  City,  and  ferv'd  for  an  Afylum  to  Of- 
fenders. 

SKJTROS  was  wrefted  out  of  the  hands  of  the  Athenians  during  their 
Bickerings  with  their  Neighbours ;  but  it  was  reftored  to  'em,  by  that  fa- 
mous Peace  which  Artaxer  xes  King  of  Per  fa,  gave  to  Greece,  on  the  Solii- 
citation  of  the  Lacedemonians ,  who  deputed  Antalcidas  to  him  to  obtain 
it.  After  the  death  of  Alexander  the  Great,  Demetrius  the  full  of  the 
nokiHKnri*    Name,  call'd  the  Town-Taker,  refolv'd  to  refcue  the  Towns  of  Greece,  took 

DioJ.Sic.  Bib-  '  ' 

liotii.  Hiit.      that  of  Skyros,  and  turn'd  out  the  Garifon. 

o.  p.  2        'TWER/E  needlefs  to  mention  that  this  Ifland  was  reduced  to  the 
Du  Cange       Obedience  of  the  Roman  Empire,  and  then  to  that  of  the  Greeks*     An- 

Hill,  of  the  1  1  /-  1  1 

Emp.ofce»/?.  drew  and  Jerom  Gizi  reduced  Skyros,  after  the  taking  of  Confiantinople  by 
HtfWy  of  the  the  Frew// and  Venetians:  the  Dukes  of  Naxia  at  length  poiTeis'd  them- 

Dufces  of  the  °        * 

Mchipeiap.  felves  of  it.  William  Carcerio  made  a  Conqueft  of  it,  and  left  it  to  his 
Defcendants  :  his  Grandfon  Nicholas  Carcerio,  the  ninth  Duke  of  the  Ar- 
chipelago, caus'd  the  Caftle  to  be  fortify'd  with  the  utmoit  care,  on  advice 
that  the  Turks  had  an  intention  to  feize  it :  and  indeed  they  did  make  a 
Deicent,  but  were  ihamefully  beat  ofT  About  the  Town  are  flill  to  be 
feen  the  Ruins  of  thofe  Fortifications,  which  the  Mahometans,  who  are 
now  Matters  of  the  Place,  have  let  run  to  decay. 

'TIS  obvious  why  this  Ifland  was  call'd  Skjros  {i.e.  rugged)  by  .the 
Antients,  the  whole  Country  being  thick-fct  with  Mountains :  nor  is  it 
lurprizing,  that  in  Strafo's  time  its  Goats  were  more  valu'd  than  thole  of 

any 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of  Skyros.  337 

any  other  Ifland  ;  for  thofe  Creatures  delight  in  SteepnefTcs,  and  will  Letter  X. 

browze  on  the  fharpeft  Point  of  the  higheft  Rock.     The  fame  Author 

too  praifes  the  Metals  and  Marble  of  this  Country,  but  at  prefent  there 

are  no  Mines   that  they  know  of  in  this   Ifland  ;  and  for  their  Goats, 

we  law  no  difference  between  them  and  thofe  we  had  met  with  elfewhere . 

we  ate  in  Skyros  excellent  Cheele,  made  of  thele  Goats  Milk  mix'd  with 

fome  Sheep's.     This   Ifland,  tho  every  where  bridling  up  with  fharp- 

rais'd  Hills,  is  very  agreeable,  and  well-manured  for  the  lew  People  it 

contains;  there  not  being  above  300  Families  in  it,  tho  it  meafures  fixty 

miles  in  circumference. 

THE  Inhabitants  pay  5000  Crowns  a  year  to  the  Grand  Signior,  in 
lieu  of  all  forts  of  Impofrs :  they  have  enough  Wheat  and  Barley  for  their 
Subfiflence ;  the  French  themfelves  come  thither  fometimes  for  thele  forts 
of  Grain.  The  Vines  make  the  Beauty  of  the  Ifland :  their  Wine  is  ex- 
cellent and  cheap  enough  ;  a  Crown  a  Barrel :  great  quantities  are  tranf- 
ported  to  the  Venetian  Army  in  the  Morea.  As  for  Wax,  they  fcarce  ga- 
ther a  hundred  Quintals.  There's  no  want  of  Wood,  as  in  the  other 
Klands  :  befides  Copfes  of  Holm-Oak,  Lentisk,  Myrtle,  drc.  we  were 
told  there  were  beautiful  Pines.  Skyros  is  the  only  Ifland  I  know  of,  that 
produces  Eleagn/ts's ;  they  are  in  the  Plain  going  from  Port  St.  George  to 
the  Village. 

THE  18th  of  April  1702,  the  South-Eaft  Wind,  attended  with  a  Storm 
of  Hail  and  Rain,  forced  us  into  that  Port ;  which  is  a  very  good  one, 
as  is  likewile  another  call'd  the  Port  of  three  Mouths. 

THERE'S  but  one  Village  in  all  Skyros,  and  that  on  a  Rock  running 
up  like  a  Sugar-Loaf,  ten  miles  from  the  Port  of  St.  George.  The  Mo- 
naftery,  which  bears  that  Saint's  Name,  makes  the  fineft  part  of  this  Vil- 
lage, tho  it  has  not  above  five  or  fix  Caloyers,  who  carefully  preferve  an 
Image  of  Silver,  on  a  very  thin  Leaf,  on  which  there  is  a  coarle  Repre- 
lentation  of  St.  George's  Miracles  :  this  Leaf,  which  is  about  four  foot 
deep,  and  two  broad,  is  nail'd  on  a  piece  of  Wood  which  has  a  Handle 
to  it  like  a  Crucifix,  and  which  they  carry  as  they  do  a  Banner.  They 
pretend  this  Image  efcaped  the  Fury  of  the  Iconoclajies,  and  alio  performs 
great  Miracles  daily,  cxercifing  particular  Severities  on  inch  as  neglect  to 
fulfil  the  Vows  made  to  Si.  George.  There  are  not  greater  lmpoftors  in 
Vol.  I.  Xx  the 


qc$8  ^f  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

the  world  than  the  Greeks :  Hear  what  they  would  have  made  Father  Sanger 
wftory  of  the  belie ve  concerning  this  matter.     "  This  Image,  {ays  he,  painted  very 
ArMpiage*  "  bunglingly  on  a  Log  of  Wood,  is  placed  over  the  great  Altar  of  the 
"  Cathedral  dedicated  to  St.  George,  and  ferv'd  by  Schifmaticks.    When 
"  the  Church  is  full  of  People,  the  Image  is  feen  to  move  of  it  felf;  and 
"  notwithstanding  its    heavinefs,  will  tranfport  it  felf  through  the  Air 
M  into  the  midft  of  the  AfTembly :  among  whom,  if  there  chances  to  be 
"  one  that  has  fail'd  to  perform  his  Vows,  the  Image  fingles  him  our, 
"  iquats  it  felf  on  his  fhoulders,  where  it  flicks  dole,  and    plies  him 
"  with  furious  BufTetings,  till  he  pays  what  he  owes  to  the  Church.     The 
"  Cream  of  the  Jeft  is,  the  Image  is  not  only  endu'd  with  this  Virtue 
"  within  the   narrow  Limits   of  the  Church,  but  generally  throughout 
"  the  whole  Ifland,  where  it  will  go  and  unkennel  a  Man  in  the  moft 
"  fecret  Lurking-place.     It  goes  its  rounds  in  an  extraordinary  manner  ;  a 
"  blind  Monk  carries  it  on  his  moulders  ;  the  Image  all  the  while,  by 
"  an  occult  Impreflion,  directing  him  where   he  mall  go :  the  Debtor 
"  feeing  'em  coming,  makes  off^  you  may  be  lure,  as  fall  as  he  can ;  but 
"  all  to  no  purpofe  :  let  him  dodge  and  play  at  bo-peep  as  much  as  he 
u  pleafes,  the  Monk  is  fteddy  in  his  purfuit,  afcends,  defcends,  palTes, 
"  repafles,  enters  all  places ;  foon  as  ever  he  finds  his  Man,  the  Image 
"  leaps  on  his  neck  to  rights,  and  fb  belabours  him,  that  fome  have  told 
"  me  they  thought  the  poor  Wretch  would  be  murder'd." 

WITHOUT  having  recourfe  to  Magick,  as  does  Father  Sanger,  the 
befl  way  is  flatly  to  deny  the  Facl:,  as  we  did,  when  they  would  have 
paum'd  thefe  Impertinences  on  us.  A  very  honeft  Gentleman,  in  com- 
pany with  us,  had  a  mind  to  convince  himfelf  of  the  thing,  and  pro- 
mifed  St.  George  ten  Crown-pieces,  with  an  intention  never  to  pay  him : 
in  our  return  back,  we  went  to  the  Church,  to  fee  if  the  blind  Image- 
Porter  with  his  Burden  would  come  and  claim  his  Promife,  or  knock  him 
down  for  Non-performance  ;  but,  Heaven  be  prais'd,  both  Image  and 
Image-bearer  happen'd  to  be  out  of  the  fpleen  that  day. 

FATHER  Sanger  was  likewife  mif-inform'd  as  to  the  Nature  of  the 
Image  :  it  is  not  painted,  but  only  carv'd  on  a  Plate  of  Silver,  which  the 
more  ftirpriz'd  us,  becaufe  fuch  fort  of  Sculptures  are  an  Abomination  to 
the  Greeks.    The  Chappel  where  it  is  kept,  is  very  fmall,  adorn'd  with 

Gildings 


Defcription  of  the  IJland  of Sky ros.  339 

Gildings  after  the  Greek  Mode  :  the  Convent  is  very  nafty,  but  we  drank  Letter  X. 
admirable  red  Wine  there.  It  is  certain  we  did  not  (mart  for  our  Curiofi-  ' 
ty  and  the  Monks  feeing  by  our  Countenances  that  we  were  not  over- 
burden'd  with  Credulity,  only  laugh'd  at  our  Queftions ;  but  (till  (luck  to 
their  main  Point,  of  not  promifing  any  thing  to  the  Image,  unlefs  a 
Man  has  a  Will  and  the  Means  to  be  as  good  as  his  word.  We  aflcnted 
to  this  Propofition,  and  commended  their  Devotion  to  St.  George,  ab- 
ftra&ed  from  their  Knavery. 

THE  Inhabitants  of  this  Ifland  are  all  of  the  Greek  Communion : 
they  have  another  Monaftery  call'd  after  the  name  of  St.  Demetrius,  but 
it  is  a  beggarly  one ;  that  of  St.  George  belongs  to  the  Caloyers  of  St.  Lau- 
ra, who  live  at  Monte-Santo,  and  who  depute  none  of  the  fimpleft  among 
the  Fraternity,  to  keep  up  the  People's  Zeal  for  St.  George .-  they  take 
particular  care  to  inftrudt  the  Monk  that's  blind,  or  pretends  to  be  fo. 

THE  Cadi  is  the  only  Turk  on  the  Ifland :  the  Adminiftrators  are  ob- 
liged to  ranfomhim,  if  the  Corfairs  mould  chance  to  kidnap,  him.  The 
Cadi  is  very  pafllve,  and  acts  e'en  as  the  Adminiftrators  would  have  him : 
thefe  latter  are  three  in  number,  and  chofen  once  a  year ;  they  exercifc 
Uriel:  Juftice,  efpecially  on  leud  Women.  When  any  fuch  are  caught  in 
the  Fact,  be  they  fair  or  be  they  foul,  they  mount  her  on  the  back  of  a 
She-Afs,  and  make  her  ride  through  the  Town,  while  every  body  has  a 
fling  at  her,  fome  with  Mud,  fome  with  Cow-dung,  others  with  rotten 
Eggs,  and  the  like. 

THE  Bifhop  of  Skyros  is  very  indigent,  he  lives  in  a  manner  upon 
Charity,  and  is  lodg'd  in  a  Dungeon  rather  than  a  Houle.  A  Man  may 
live  very  cheap  in  this  Ifland  ;  you  may  have  a  good  fat  Sheep  for  forty 
Pence,  and  Lambs  for  half  that  price :  there's  plenty  of  Wild- Fowl,  of 
every  kind  and  fort,  efpecially  Partridges.  Their  Water  is  admirable,  and 
every  Rock  affords  a  Spring :  the  Brook  that  empties  it  felf  into  Port 
St.  George,  is  very  pretty  ;  when  the  Ships  take  in  a  Provifion  of  frefh 
Water,  they  fend  their  Boats  to  more,  and  convey  the  Water  into  Barrels 
through  a  Leather  Pipe. 

I  am,  &c 

1 
X  x  2  LET- 


C  34°) 


#  *  *  *  *  v  4  <»4  ##$#$#^##&##s!?&<*w£^  3?  <#  <&  *  ##  <£  4?  &  *  s# 

■ 

LETTER    XI. 

To  Monfeigneur  the  Count  de  Pontchartrain, 
Secretary  of  State,  <3ee. 


My  Lo r d> 
Defection  of  |j|§|||i||p  E  let  fail  for  Conjlantinople  the  15th  of  March  1701,  from  rhe 
/A*  Darda-     ^HwlS  *>orC  °^  ^f  r*  m  rne  South  part  of  the   Ifland  of  Metelm  i 
neiies,  of  the  i||U-J|lj  having  a  fair  Wind,  we  in  a  few  hours  sot  fight  of  Tenedos, 

Cities  o/Galli-  :lfflji|8gg||@/|3  s  . 

poii  and  Con-  sSSsss^"—3  between  which  and  Troas  we  pafs'd,  and  in  a  few  hours 
more,  enter'd  that  famous  Canal,  which  feparates  the  two  faireft  Quar- 
ters of  the  Earth,  Europe  and  Afta :  'tis  call'd  the  Hellefpont,  the  Strait 
of  Gallipoli,  the  Canal  of  the  Dardanelles,  the  Arm  -of  St.  George,  the 
Mouths  of  Conjlantinople ;  the  Turks  know  it  by  the  name  of  Boghas, 
or  Strait  of  the  White  Sea. 

THE  Hellefpont,  every  one  knows,  fignifies  the  Sea  of  Helle ;  for  the 

Er  fatisamifla,  Antients  believed   that  a  Daughter  of  At  ham  as  King  of  Thebes,  whole 

mis  ab  Helle.   Name  was  Helle,  was  drown'd  therein  as  flie  was  going  to  Colchis  with  her 

Ve'ai'tL^d'    Brother  Phryxus,  to  carry  the  Golden  Fleece.     According  to  all  appea- 

utron,  ranee,  the  Name  of  Dardanelles  comes  from  Dardane,  an  antient  City  not 

far  off  it,  and  would  have  been  bury'd  in  oblivion,  but  for  the  Peace 

Plutarch,  in     which  was  there  concluded  between  Mithridates  and  SjlU  General  of  the 

Roman  Army :  this  Strait  was  call'd  the  Arm  of  St.  George,  on  occafion 

rise/san*-      of  a  Village  beyond  Gallipoli,    call'd  Peri/la/is,  where  there's  a  famous 

Church  of  St.  George,  much  refpedted  by  the  Greeks. 

THE  Canal  is  in  a  fine  Country,  bounded  on  each  fide  with  fruitful 
Hills,  on  which  you  fee  lbmetimes  Vineyards,  fbmetimes  Olive- Planta- 
tions, 


-^~U  ... 


/<>.•.-./"//;.'//>•/    ///v/-    t',is//y   ,w     //<*  -i/ia/isA    tied** 


/</<•<■  ,>/' ///<■  /f/:-r  //*//■   ///..//'  .'//  *S&?   /'//nyj,\ifi  Jiife 


'W.'+jL: 


De/cripti 
the  Stra. 
the  Dan 
nelles,  o 
Cities  of 
poli  ant 
ihntinoj 


Er  fatis 
locus  hi 
mis  ab  I 
Ovid.  1 
JLtand. 
Heron. 


Plutarc 
Syll. 


n<e/f 


Defcription  of  the  Strait  of  the  Dardanelles.         34.  r 

tioiis,  and  a  deal  of  arable  Land.  As  you  go  in,  you  leave  Thrace  and  Letter  XF. 
'  Cape  Greek  on  the  left  hand ;  Phrygia  and  '  Cape  ^aniffari  on  the  right : ,  f^^* 
the  Propontis,  or  Sea  of  Marmara,  prelents  it  felf  on  the  North  ;  the  Ar- lkln'  Maftufo. 
chipelago  remains  in  the  South.  The  Mouth  of  the  Canal  is  four  miles/;,. 4. cap.  1  %'. 
and  a  half  over :  it  is  defended  by  the  new  Caftles  which  Mahomet  IV.  cap'eh.'TiLd! 
built  there  in  i6<o,  to  fecure  his  Fleet  from  the  Infults  of  the  Venetians.  m«W«  «- 

r  '  KQcf..    Ptol.  lib. 

who  ufed  to  come  and  attack  it  in  fight  of  the  old  Caftles.  The  Generals  3.  cap.  12. 
Morofini,  Bemfo,  Mocenigo,  fignaliz'd  themfelves  here  more  than  once,  A€°feiy,  ^^ 
during  the  Candian  War.  .'  '3" 

Pi'omonto- 

THE  Waters  that  pais  through  this  Canal,  from  out  of  the  Propoxt  is,  rium  Sig*uin. 
are  as  rapid  as  if  they  flow'd  beneath  a  Bridge :  when  the  North  Wind  sw^L*. 
blows,  no  Ship  can  enter;  but  when 'tis  South,  you  hardly  perceive  any  j^-^-^ 
Current  at  all :  only  beware  of  the  Caftles.  indefumuHei- 

AND  yet  this  PafTage  might  be  forced  without  much  danger,  the marTmcum- 
Caftles  being  above  four  miles  afunder  :  the  Turkijb  Artillery,  however  fW^ 
monftrous  they  look,  would  not  much  annoy  the  Ships,  if  they  had  di=ns>  donec 

3  '  11  Afinm  abrum- 

a  good  Wind,  and  went  in  a  file.  The  Port-holes  of  the  Cannon  be-  pat  Europe. 
longing  to  thefe  Caftles,  look  like  Coach-houfe  Doors ;  but  the  Cannon,  ub^Hfa^t 
which  are  the  largeft  I  ever  beheld,  not  being  fet  on  Carriages,  can't  fire 
above  once.  And  who  would  dare  to  charge  'em  in  the  prefence  of 
Ships  of  War,  that  would  pour  in  fuch  Broadfides  upon  'em,  as  would 
foon  demolifh  the  Walls  of  the  Caftles  which  are  not  terrafs'd,  and  bury 
beneath  their  Ruins  both  Guns  and  Gunners?  half  a  dozen  Bombs  would 
do  the  bufineis. 

SUCH  Merchant-Ships  as  come  from Conftantinople,  flop  three  days 
at  the  Caftle  of  the  Jfian  fide,  to  befearch'd  whether  they  have  any  of 
the  Turks  Slaves  on  board ;  and  yet  there  pafTes  not  a  day,  but  lbme  or 
other  of  thefe  poor  Creatures  make  a  fhift  to  efcape :  no  Ship  of  War, 
of  whatever  Nation,,  is  exempted  from  being  thus  vifited,  without  ex- 
prefs  Order  from  the  Porte ;  it's  true,  'tis  rather  a  Ceremony  than  a-Searclv 

THE  Geographers  are  generally  of  opinion,  that  the  Caftles  of  the 
Dardanelles  are    built  on  the  Ruins  of  Sejlos   and  Jhjdos,    two  antient  Abydos  magni. 
Towns  famed  for  the  Loves  of  Hero  and  Leander ;  but  they  are  ffldaiimoris  comt 
feftly  miftaken,  for  the  Caftles  are  dire&ly  oppofite  to  each  other,  where^-  .  ™crcio  in%n»> 
as  thofe  two  Towns  were  fituated  very  differently  :  Sejlos  was  fo  far  ad-  **«>■«*.  lib.  1* 

vanced       '9* 


342  A  Vo  y  a  g  e  into  the  Levant. 

Rer.  Geog.     vanced  towards  the  Propontis,  that  Strabo  reckons  3750  paces  from  the 

lib    12 

Hciod.  lib.  7.  P°rt  of  ^J^  t0  tnat  °f  5e/w.  Leander  muft  have  been  a  (lout  Blade 
to  fwira  fuch  a  length  to  fee  his  Miftrefs ;  and  accordingly  he  is  repre- 
fented  on  the  Medals  of  CaracalL  and  Alexander  Severus,  as  conducted  by 
a  Cupid  flying  before  him  with  a  Torch,  no  lefs  an  Affiflance  to  him  than 
the  Beacon  his  Miftrefs  took  care  ihould  be  kindled  on  the  top  of  the 
Tower  where  (he  ufed  to  wait  his  coming :  a  Man  muft  be  no  Milk-fop, 
to  make  love  in  that  (brt.  Stra.bo's  Account  of  the  Situation  of  Sejlos  and 
Abydos,  is  our  beft  Rule  to  go  by  :  not  only  (b,  but  there  are  no  Remnants 
of  Antiquity  near  the  Caftles,  and  the  narrowed;  place  of  the  Canal  is 
three  miles  further,  on  the  fide  of  Ma.it  a  in  Europe.  There  are  dill  to  be 
ieen  alfo  (bme  remarkable  Foundations  and  old  ruinous  Buildings  on  the 
Jjia  fide,  where  Abydos  flood. 
XERXES,  whofe  Father  caus'd  that  Town  to  be  burnt,  to  cut  off 

Kerod.  ibid,  from  the  Scythians  an  Entrance  into  Aft  a.  Minor,  judicioufly  chofe  this 
Strait  to  pafs  his  Army  over  into  Greece  ;  for  Strabo  writes,  that  where  he 
made  his  Bridge,  'twas  about  a  mite  over.  Out  of  a  ridiculous  Vanity, 
as  if  he  had  a  mind  to  lord  it  over  the  Elements,  that  Monarch  order'd 
300  Ladies  to  be  given  to  the  Sea,  and  a  Pair  of  Hand-Fetters  to  be  cad: 
into  it,  for  its  daring  to  break  down  the  firft  Bridge  he  laid  over  it :  the 
Workmen  fared  worfe,  for  they  had  their  Heads  flruck  off.  Some  days 
after  this,  Xerxes  being  defirous  to  reconcile  himfelf  with  the  Sea,  made 
Libations  to  it  out  of  a  golden  Bottle,  and  befbught  the  Sun  to  remove 
the  Obftacles  that  impeded  his  fubduing  all  Europe :  the  Bottle  was  thrown 
into  the  Canal,  with  a  gold  Cup  and  a  Scymeter.  I  cannot  determine, 
lays  Herodotus,  from  whom  we  learn  this  Ceremony ;  whether  Xerxes 
by  calling  thefe  things  into  the  Water,  meant  it  as  a  Sacrifice  to  the  Sun 
or  whether  out  of  Compunction  of  Mind,  for  caufing  it  to  be  fcourg'd 
he  fought  by  his  Offerings  to  make  amends  for  the  Outrage  he  thought  he 
had  done  to  it. 

DeBofph.  M.  GILLES  thinks,   that  the  Greek  Poets  father'd  this  Folly  on 

cap.  12.         Xerxes,  and  that  Herodotus  took  the  thing  too  ferioufly :  the  300  Ladies 
according  to  M.  Gilles,  betoken  fo  many  Anchors,  which  they  had  cafl 
into  the  Sea  to  fix  the  Ships  that  ferv'd  toward  the  building  this  fecond 

%  Bridge ; 


343 

.etterXI. 


<u  I 


jiLZ. 


Sraca  rf' 


rrian.  lib.r. 
!  Exped.Alex. 

Herod,  ibid. 

Bibliotli.  lib. 

p.irt  2. 
In  Panathe* 

ic. 

Var.  Hift. 
>.  13.  cap.  3, 
In  Themift. 


\nna1.Sultam 
fmen.  8c 
ft.  Muflulm. 

;rod, 

menlic  lfTar, 
/orry  Town 
1  miles  from 
Jlipoti. 


Uhe  fftdsOzJtb  oh  y\A/taiLck   Side. 


Wis  tVJ  tajtit-  an    //  Sifc&xreezn    .'/</<' 


1  imiii    t 


Defer Iption  of  the  Strait  of  the  Dardanelles.         343 

Bridge;  and  by  the  Pair  of  Fetters  is  defign'd  the  two  Iron  Chains  that  Letter  XL 
falTen'd  'em  together  at  both  ends,  and  on  each  fide.  ^>~v->w 

OVER  this  fecond  Bridge,  within  the  compafs  of  feven  days  and  feven  taian.  iii-.r. 
nights,  march'd  Seventeen  Hundred  Thoufand  Foot-Soldiers,  according  e  X¥eu,Akx' 
to '  Herodotus,  and  Fourfcore  Thoufand  Horfe,  exclufive  of  the  Camels '  Herod,  ibid. 
and  Carriages  :   *  Diodorm  Stculm  fays,    but    Eight  Hundred  Thoufand  '  Biblioth.  lib. 
Foot;  '  lfocrates,  not  fo  many  by  a  Hundred  Thoufand  ;  4  AHianus  holds  >i„  p'an^;ie. 
to  this  Number  for  all  the  Troops  together,  Horfe  and  Foot ;  Jujlin  and  "a,c* 
Orofius  add  thereto  Three  Hundred  Thoufand  Auxiliaries :  laftly,  s  Come-  lib.  13.  cap^g. 
lius Nepos  fixes  the  Infantry  at  Seven  Hundred  Thoufand,  but  increafes' lnThemi{i 
the  Cavalry  to  Four  Hundred  Thoufand. 

THE  Turks,  when  they  made  their  firfl  Incurfions  over  this  Canal, 
came  very  fhort  of  fiich  Numbers  ;  but  before  we  fpeak  of  that,  'tis  good 
to  obferve  that  Parmenlo  was  order'd  by  Alexander  the  Great  to  tranfport 
his  Cavalry,  and  moft  of  the  Infantry,  from  Sefios  to  Abydos,  for  which 
Service  they  employ'd  160  Gallies,  befides  Ships  of  Burden.  Chalcon- 
dylu-s  affirms,  that  under  the  Ottoman  Empire  8000  Turks  took,  as  i& 
were,  a  Leap  over  the  Hellefpont,  and  penetrated  beyond  the  Danube, 
where  they  were  repulsM  by  the  Scythians,  and  forced  back  into  Afia  • 
while  the  Emperors  of  Confiantinople,  Andronicus  the  old  and  the  young, 
of  the  Family  of  the  Paleologi,  were  ruining  the  Empire  by  their  Divifion : 
the  Mujfulmans  however  were  not  fo  totally  expelFd,  but  that  there  ftill 
remain'd  behind  fbme  of  'em,  particularly  in  Thrace,  whither  they  after- 
wards drew  greater  numbers  under  Solyman  the  Son  of  Orcan. 

ACCORDING  to"  Leunclavius,  it  was  five  miles  from  the  Darda- s  Annahsuitam 
nelles,  where  this  Transfretation  was  perform'd  ;  for  he  fuppofes  that  Hrft.  Mu&ha. 
1  Malta  is  but  three  miles  diflance  therefrom,  on  the  Europe  fide ;  and  he  '  M*^«- 

Herod. 

places,  two  miles  from  Malta,  the  Cattle  of  8  Zjmen/c,  where  the  Turks'  yle,A^T0\. 
landed.     Solyman  walking  one  day  along  the  Borders  of  Phrygla,  which  a'^fV^' 
he  had  newly  conquer'd,  was  fo  ftruck  with  the  Ruins  of  Troy,  that  he  2°  «#«/«» 
fuddenly  fell  into  a  profound  Meditation,     ^ufuph  Ezes  Bey,  one  of  his 
principal  Officers,  could  not  forbear  asking  him  the  occafion  of  it :  I 
would  (faid  Solyman)  gladly  crofs  the  Sea  to  Greece,  without  the  privi- 
ty of  the  Chriftians.     Ezes,  to  pleafure  him,  puts  himfelf  into  a  Boat 
with  but  one  Friend,  and  off  he  goes  to  the  Europe  fide,  where  he  feizes 

and 


344- 


Hift.  MuflTulm. 
lib.  4. 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

and  carries  back  a  Greek  to  his  Mafter,  who  treated  him  fo  well,  that  he 
undertook  to  mew  that  Prince  the  Ihorteft  way  to  enter  Greece  by  Health. 
Seven  or  eight  hundred  pick'd  Soldiers  being  carry'd  over  by  night,  the 
Prilbner  led  them  directly  to  theCaftle  of  Zjmenic,  where  they  met  with 
no  refiftance,  the  Inhabitants  being  buiy'd  about  their  Harveft,  and  the 
CafUe  almoft  bury'd  under  huge  heaps  of  dung.  The  Turks,  far  from 
mal-treating  the  People,  exprefs'd  the  greatefl:  Love  to  them,  and  gave 
'em  Prefents ;  they  did  indeed  fend  away  a  few  Prilbners  to  Solyman,  to 
aflure  him  of  the  Place's  being  taken :  ihortly  after,  the  Cavalry  repair'd 
thither  likewife.  At  length  Ga/lipoli  was  attack'd  and  taken,  Anno  1357. 
Soljman  died  the  fame  Year  with  a  Fall  from  his  Horfe  in  hunting.  Qr- 
cm  furvived  him  but  two  months :  he  was  fucceeded  by  Mourat,  his  fecond 
Son,  who  took  Jdrianople  in  1360,  and  made  it  the  Capital  Seat  of  his 
Empire  in  Europe,  as  Prufa  was  in  AJia. 

I  HAVE  been  often  told  at  Conjlxntinople,  that  the  Turkijb  Annals 
were  cramm'd  with  Stories  and  Stratagems,  which  the  Turks  boafl  of,  in 
their  Conquefts  over  the  Chriflians.  The  following  is  one  related  by 
Leunclaz'tus,  and  tranflated  from  the  Turkiflj  Original.  The  lame  Soljman, 
mention'd  before,  fends  fourfcore  Fellows  over  the  Heliefpont  :  theie 
lurking  in  the  Vineyards  till  Break  of  Day,  laid  hold  on  half  a  dozen 
Husbandmen,  as  they  were  going  to  their  Work ;  the  next  night,  feventy 
of  thefe  Muffulmans  put  themlelves  in  ambulli  near  the  Town,  while  the 
other  ten  remain'd  further  off  with  their  Prilbners,  four  of  whom  they 
murdefd,  and  hung  on  Trees  upon  a  rifing  ground,  with  their  heels  up- 
wards, and  ript  out  their  Bowels  as  Butchers  do  Sheep  in  the  Shambles : 
one  of  'em  was  put  on  a  Spit  like  a  Pig,  and  fuch  as  remain'd  alive  were 
obliged  to  turn  the  Spit,  and  roafl:  him  at  a  lire.  Next  day  the  Turks  took 
more  Prilbners,  who  happen'd  to  be  decrepid  old  Men,  that  could  hardlv 
creep  along  :  they  were  ltrangely  frighten'd  to  hear  they  were  Turks,  and 
lived  upon  nothing  but  Man's  Fleih  ;  after  Ibme  very  dilinal  Dialogues  thcy 
ditmifs'd  'em,  telling  'em  they  were  ufed  to  better  Meat,  but  bade  'em 
be  lure  to  lend  'em  Ibme  young  Folks  to  feed  upon.  About  goes  the 
Spit  all  the  while.  The  old  Men,  not  having  feen  above  ten  Turks,  rc- 
;  urn'd  to  Town  fader  than  they  went  out,  and  fell  a  fwearing  like  mad 
at  their  Townlmen :  What  a  deyil  do  ye  Hand  here  for,  with  your  fingers 

4-  in 


Defcription  of  the  Strait  of  the  Dardanelles.         345 

in  your  mouths  ?    Look  yonder !  lee  thofe  Turks,  there's  but  half  a  fcore  Letter  XL 
of  'em,  and  they're  roafting  one  of  our  Brethren,  and  would  have  done  ^*s/~*i!*J 
the  fame  by  us,  but  that  we  were  too  tough  and  skinny :  nothing  but 
young  Flefh  will  down  with  them.    The  Commandant  of  the  Place, 
who  was  in  the  Prime  of  his  Years,  order'd  out  all  the  young  Fellows 
immediately  to  go  and  kill  the  Turks  :   accordingly,  out  they  all  run. 
Mean  while  the  feventy  Muffulmans,  who  lay  conceal'd  among  the  Bufhes, 
entered  the  Place  and  feiz'd  the  Gates,  as  fbon  as  they  law  the  Croud  at 
a  proper  diftance.     The  Populace  flill  prefs'd  forward,  without  fufpe&ing 
the  Stratagem :  at  laft  the  Turks  that  were  roafting  the  Chriftian,  inftead 
of  running  farther  into  the  Country,  made  the  belt  of  their  way  to  the 
Town.     What  Fools  are  they,  faid  the  Greeks,  to  take  refuge  in  our 
Houfes !  let  'em  go,  let  'em  go,  we'll  deflroy  'em  all  together.    But  as  fbon 
as  thefe  fame  Fools  were  got  into  the  Town,  they  fhut  the  Gates,  and 
mounted  the  Walls  with  their  Comrades,  and  mod  of  the  Children  which 
were  left  in  the  Houfes.     The  poor  Greeks  look'd  very  fheepiih  at  this 
Spectacle :  they  were  told,  unlefs  they  return'd  to  their  Houfes,  they 
would  cut  the  throats  of  all  the  Children  •,  but  if  they  would  fubmit, 
they  mould  have  no  harm  done  'em.     The  Populace,   not  knowing 
what  to  do,  accepted  of  the  Offer  :  but  the  Perfons  of  Diftin&ion 
flood  out,  till  the  Turks  had  fworn  on  the  Alcoran  not  to  take  their 
Eftates  from  'em.     Tho  no  Oath  can  be  propos'd  that  a  Villain  will  not 
take,  yet  they  had  recourfe  to  a  kind  of  mental   Reftri&ion,   unex- 
pected by  the  Greeks:  the  Men  of  Note  were  all  put  to  death,  tho 
their  Eftates  were  not  touch'd,  which  the  Turks  allured  'em  they  would 
not.      The  Mujfulmans  are  very  good  at   thefe  Diftin&ions  :    Maho- 
met II.  after  the  taking  of  Negropont,  caus'd  the  Governour  to  be  faw'd 
through  the  Body,  faying,  he  had  promis'd  to  fpare  his  Head,  but  not 
his  Trunk. 

THE  Greek  Hiftorians  differ  in  all  thefe  Adventures;  fot  Ducas  pre. 
tends,  that  the  Turks  pafs'd  not  the  Hellefpont  for  the  firft  time  till  the 
Years  1356  and  1357.  that  it  was  Homur  Son  of  Attn,  and  Orcan,  who 
ravaged  all  Thrace  ;  one  was  mafler  of  Smyrna  and  Ephefus,  and  the  other 
of  Prufa.  Certain  it  is,  the  Mujfulmans  did  not  infecl:  Europe  till  about 
700  Years  after  the  Eftablifhment  of  Mahometilm  in  Jfi* :  for  the  Egira, 
Vol.  I.  Y  y  or 


2^.5  A  Vo  y  A  g  e  into  the  Levant. 

or  Mahometan  /Era,  which  rakes  its  date  from  Mahomet's  Flight  from 
Mecha,  began  in  the  6  2  2d  Year  of  Chrift;  and  Othoman,  the  firfl;  Empe- 
ror of  the  Turks,  died  not  till  Anno  1528. 


GALUPOLr.       GALLIPO  LI  was  the  firfl  Town  they  cantonM  themfelves  in. 

piiJTtiLX    the  Situation  of  that  Place  is  fo  convenient  for  paffing  into  Thrace,  that 

cap-  '.'•        the  Princes  who  have  had  defisns  on  that  Province,  have  ever  begun  bv 

making  themfelves  mailers  of  that  Town.     It  fell  to  the  lhare  of  the 

•  Giegor.  ix.  Venetians,  after  the  taking  of  Conjlantinople  by  the  Latins :  but '  Vat  ace 
Du  cm.^e  ' '  Emperor  of  the  Gr eeks,  who  made  his  refidence  at  Magnefia  of  Mount 
Hid.  of  the     Sipylw,  being  at  war  with  Robert  de  Cotirtenai,  fourth  French  Emperor* 

Emp.ofCun/?.      iJ  D  '  *  > 

lib.  3.  befieg'd  it,  took  it,  and  utterly  deftroyM  it  in  '  1 2  3  5.     The  Catalans,  wha 

S"  bmST  fignanz'd  themfelves  in  fo  many  Rencounters  in  G>we,  fortify'd  them- 
generque The- fclves  at  GaUipoli  in  i?o6,  under  Roger  de  Fl or  Vice-Admiral  of  Sicily. 

odovi  Lafcaris,    „-,,,  ,11  iu^/» 

imperii  fedem  After  the  death  of  that  General,  who  was  murder  d  at  C on/rant inople,  in 
fifad-s^pyUmi i  violation  of  a  Iblemn  Oath  made  by  the  Emperor  Andronicm,  by  the 
annis33.  Image  of  the  Virgin  painted  by  St.  Luke;  the  Spaniards  cut  to  pieces 
nyzant.  moft  of  the  Burghers,  and  Co  well  intrench'd  themfelves  in  the  Towd,; 
ibid^bT    That  Michael  Paleologm,  the  Emperor's  Son,  was  fain  to  raife  the  Siege. 

•  Pachim.  lib.  '  Remond  Montaner,  and  the  WiVes  of  the  Catalans,  whole  Husbands  were 
ie,  cap.  24,   in  t^e  A^y  tjiat  ^ept  tne  Country,  made  fb  gallant  a  Defence  againft 

Anthony  Spinola,  who  fbrm'd  a  fecond  Siege  by  order  of  the  Emperor,, 
that  the  Genoefe  were  conflrain'd  to  retire.  At  length  the  Catalans,  per- 
luaded  that  they  could  not  hold  out  long  in  Ga/lipoli,  level'd  the  Works 

•  Du  cange    in  *  1307.    Thus  Soljman  Son  of  Qrcan  mult  have  got  it  cheap  in '  i  $57, 

•  Calvin  ^r  r^e  Town  was  at  that  time  difmantled,  and  the  Emperor  *  John  Pa~ 
*'Aaai\.  Turc.  leologuf,  to  comfort  himfelf  for  the  lofs  of  it,  faid  he  had  only  loll  a  Jar 

of  Wine  and  a  Stye  for  Hogs  ;  alluding,  doubtlefs,  to  the  Magazines  of 

>  Procop.  de    Victuals  and  Cellars  built  by  7  Jufiinian,  not  only  for  maintaining  a  flrong 

lib.'^'cap'.ip.  Garifon  within  the  Town,  but  Troops  without.     In  the  fame  view  that 

Emperor,  according  to  Procopius,  caus'd  GaUipoli  to  be  fubilantially  wall'd 

about.     Bajazet  L  knowing  the  Importance  of  this  Poll  for  palling  from 

Prufa  to  Adrianople,  which  at  that  time  were  the  two  Capital  Seats  of  the 

»DucasHift.    Ottoman  Empire,  caus'd  GaUipoli  to  be  repair'd  in 8  1391  ;  he  llrengthen'd 

'  '  it  with  a  huge  Tower,  and  made  a  good  Port  for  hisGallies.    Mafia- 

*  fha? 


I 


AY  -- 


nu7.3^/r 


Jisn^  iyf  //'ii/Z/pa// 


Defcription  of  the  City  of  Gallipoli.  34.7 

pha,  '  one  of  his  Sons,  fail'd  not  to  feize  it  after  the  death  of  Mahomet  I.  Letter  XI. 
in  order  to  bar  the  Entrance  of  Amurat  I.  into  Europe :  but  this  latter,  mumd^c^J! 
who  was  his  Nephew  and  lawful  SuccefTor,  retook  Gallipoli  and  Adriano- 
pie,  where  he  hang'd  up  Mufiapha. 

THE  Genoefe  facilitated  to  Amur  at  the  Paflage  of  the  Canal.     *  Due  as  *  Cap.  25,  & 
reports,  that  it  was  done  by  the  help  of  the  Ships  of  John  Adorne  Po-  1' 
At  fiat  of  the  new  Phocea ;  but  this  Podeftat,  young  as  he  was,  improved 
the  Opportunity  like  a  wife  Man :  In  the  middle  of  the  way  he  ask'd  the 
Sultan  an  Exemption  from  the  Tribute  paid  yearly  by  the  Genoefe  for  the 
Alum  of  Phocea,  and  obtain'd  it.     ?  Chalcocondylus  mentions  nothing  of  the '  L,b'  *>' 
Alum,  but  affirms  this  Tranfportation  was  procured  by  dint  of  Mony ; 
and 4  Leunolavim  adds,  that  Amurat  gave  no  left  than  one  or  two  Ducats  *  p*nd.  Hift. 

,_.,,.  Jun.  cap.8?. 

for  each  Soldier. 

GALLIPOLI  is  ftill  a  large  Town  at  the  mouth  of  the  PropontU,  or 
Sea  of  Marmara,  in  a  Strait  about  five  miles  broad ;  it  is  2  5  miles  from  the 
Dardanelles,  40  from  the  Ifles  of  Marmara,  and  1 2  from  Confiantinople. 
Gallipoli  is  in  a  Peninfula,  which  has  two  Ports,  one  to  the  South,  and 
the  other  to  the  North.  They  reckon  in  it  about  10000  Turks,  3500 
Greeks,  not  quite  fb  many  Jews.  The  Bazar,  or  the  Bezejlein,  the  place 
where  the  Merchandizes  are  fold,  is  a  handfome  Houfe  with  feveral  Domes 
cover'd  over  with  Lead :  the  Town  has  no  Walls,  and  is  only  defended 
by  a  fbrry  fquare  Caftle,  with  an  old  Tower,  which  doubtlefs  is  that  of 
Bajazet.  We  were  aflured  the  Doors  to  the  Greek  and  Jews  Houfes  were 
not  above  two  foot  and  a  half  high,  and  the  like  in  many  Towns  of 
Turky,  to  prevent  the  Turks  in  their  Frolicks  from  coming  a  horfe-back 
into  their  Houfes,  where  they  would  commit  a  thoufand  Outrages. 

I  CAN  fay  no  more  of  Gallipoli,  not  having  been  perfbnally  in  it: 
we  anchor'd  in  a  Port  fix  miles  below  it,  the  North  Wind  detaining  us  AnPoitusCoc 
there  till  the  Holy  Saturday,  and  we  had  the  mortification  not  to  land  l2),Z  Man!' 
at  Gallipoli :  all  we  could  do,  was,  as  we  pafs'd  by,  to  take  a  Draught  oV'k  -• 
it,  wherein  we  were  favour'd  very  opportunely  by  a  Calm  of  Weather. 

W  E  were  told,  that  on  the  Afia  fide,  right  againfl  Gallipoli,  there  was 
a  Village  call'd  Chardac  oxCamanar,  whither  they  come  from  Smyrna  to 
pais  the  Canal,  and  take  the  way  to  Gallipoli  by  Land,  and  that  the  Winds 
were  not  favourable  for  going  by  Sea  to  Conjtantincpk  .-  we  would  gladly 

Yy  2  have 


cat>,  2. 


04.8  A  Vo  y  a  g  e  into  the  Levant. 

have  taken  this  Road.  On  the  way  (lands  Rodofio,  Heradea,  Sclhrea, 
and  other  Places,  touching  which,  lundry  Obfervations  might  be  madej, 
but  our  Captain  would  not  put  in  any  where  on  the  Europe  fide,  and  the 
Wind  rifing  South-Weft,  foon  brought  us  in  fight  of  the  Ifles  of  Mar* 
mxray  on  the  fide  whereof  is  a  beggarly  Town  named  Lartachi,  fav&  to  be 
the  old  City  of  Priapus.  The  Wind  wafted  us  over  the  VropontU,  and 
prefcnted  us  the  fineft  View  in  the  world,  I  mean,  the  Seven  Towers  and 
the  Coaft  of  Conjlantinople,  which  poflefles  the  Entrance  of  the  Thracian 
Bofphoms,  call'd  likewife  the  Canal  of  the  Black  Sea. 


constant*.  CONSTANTINOPLE,  with  its  Suburbs,  is,  beyond  diipute,  the 
N0FLE'  largely  City  of  Europe  ;  its  Situation^  by  confent  of  all  Travellers,  and 
•  Poiyb.  Hift.  even  the  antient '  Hiftorians,  is  the  moft  agreeable  and  the  mod  advaa- 
Tscit  Ann.  tageous  of  the  whole  Univerfe.  It  feems  as  if  the  Canal  of  the  Darda- 
8b.  12.  nelles,  and  that  of  the  Black  Sea,  were  made  on  purpofe  to  bring  it  the 

Riches  of  the  four  Quarters  of  the  World:  thofe  of  the  Mogul,  the///- 
dier,  the  rernoteft  North,  China  and  Japan-,  come  by  the  way  of  the  Black 
Sea  ;  and  by  the  Canal  of  the  White  Sea,  come  the  Merchandizes  of  Ara- 
bia, Egypt,  Ethiopia,  the  Coaft  of  Africk,  the  Weft-Indies,  and  whatever 
Europe  produces.     Thefe  two  Canals  are  as  the  Doors  of  Conjlantinople ; 
the  North  and  South,  which  are  the  ordinary  Winds  there,  are  as  it  were 
the  two  Leaves  of  the  Door  i  when  the  North  Wind  blows,  the  South 
'£/**>.'£'«<  Door  is  Hurt,  that  is,  nothing  can  come  in  from  the  Southern  Coaft ;  this 
™"&dw$  Door  opens,  when  the  South  Wind  reigns:  if  you  will  not  allow  thefe 
#f«*  &**"  Winds  to  be  call'd  the  Doors  of  Constantinople,  you  muft  agree  'em  to  be 
xjn^tti  ce«>  its  Keys  at  leaft. 
%t$$!2S       M..THEVENOT  will  have  Constantinople  to  be  not  fo  big  as  Paw, 

at  bm^  and  kut  ten  or  twelve  mu*es  aD°ut ;  M.  Spon  allows  it  fifteen  :  for  my  part, 
I  believe  its  Compals  to  be  twenty  three  miles ;  to  which  if  you  add 
twelve  for  the  Suburbs  of  Galata,  Caffun-Pacha,  Pera,  Topana,  Fundukliy 
the  Circumference  of  this  vaft  City  will  be  34  or  3  £  miles.  I  can't  hold 
with  them,  who  reckon  Scutari  among  the  Suburbs  of  Conjlantinople,  be- 
caufe  'tis  only  parted  by  the  breadth,  of  the  Canal :  neither  on  the  other 
hand  can  1  come  into  their  Sentiment,  who  cut  off  from  Conjlantinople  all 
the  Suburbs  beyond  the  Port ;  fince  even  under  the  firft  Chriftian  Em- 
perors, 


Defcription  of  the.  City  of  Conftanthiople.  349- 

perors,  Galata  was  the  thirteenth  Region  of  the  City :  the  Fig-Tree  Quar-  LetterXf, 
ter,  which  is  the  fame  as  Galata,  makes  part  of  the  City,  according  to  the  ,^?'"v~^> 
Emperor  AnaftafiM,  and  Jujliwan  placed  it  in  the  new  Circumference.  Novel-  w 
By  little  and  little  they  have  join'd  to  Galata  the  neighbouring  Towns,  ^st'.E^l' 
as  at  Paris  the  Faux-bourg  St.  Germain,  the  Faux-bourg  St.  Antcin,  and 
others. 

W  E  mud  then  diftinguifh  the  two  parts  in  Conjlantinople,  that  on'  this 
fide  the  Port,  and  that  on  the  other  fide :  the  firft  is  the  antient  Byzantium  ; 
and  Conjlantinople,  whofe  Plan  is  of  a  triangular  figure :  two  of  its  fide& 
are  waftYd  by  the  Sea,  namely,  that  of  the  Port,  which  is  the  crookedeft 
of  all,  and  that  which  goes  from  the  Point  of  the  Seraglio  to  the  Se- 
ven Towers;  the  third  is  longer  than  the  reft,  and  is  on  the- firm1 
Land.  To  each  of  the  two  firft,  they  ufually  allow  feven  miles,  and 
nine  miles  to  the  other:  the  firft  Angle  of  this  City  is  at  the  Sevea 
Towers,  the  fecond  at  the  Point  of  the  Seraglio,  and  the  third  at  the 
Mofque  of  Ejouby  towards  the  frefh  Waters. 

THE  Walls  of  Conftantinople  are  very  good  ;  thofe  of  the  Land-fide 
have  a  double  Range  twenty  foot  from,  each  other,  and.  defended  by  a 
flat-bottom'd  Ditch  fome  twenty  five  foot  broad:  the  outer  Wall,,  which 
is  about  two  Toifes  high,  is  defended  by  250  low  Towers;  the  inner - 
Wall  is  above  twenty  foot  high,  and  its  Towers,  which  anfwer  to  thofe 
of  the  outer,  are  well-proportion'd.     The  Battlements,   the  Courtines, 
the  Port-holes,  are  well-contriv'd,  but  we  law  no  Artillery :  Free-ftone- 
is  what  it  moftly  confifts  of.     I  think  we  counted  five  Gates  on  this  fide : 
it  might  be  eafily  fortify'd,  for  the  Situation  is  naturally  Hoping;  very 
far  from  commanding  the  City. 

THE  Walls  from  the  Seven  Towers  to  the  Seraglio,  and  thofe  along 
the  Port,  look  to  be  fbmewhat  more  difregarded  :  there's  no  going  round 
'em,  becaufe  of  feveral  Out-jettings  to  the  Water.  There's  no  Wharf  or 
Key ;  fome  part  of  the  Walls,  efpecially  toward  the  Port,  is  (addled 
with  Houfes  :  the  Towers  of  both  fides  are  let  at  a  proper  diftance,  but 
have  been  often  damaged  by  Storms,  and  repaired  as  often  by  the  Greek' 
Emperors  Theofhiliis,  Michael,  Bafil,  Conjlantine  Porphjrogerretes,  Manner 
Csmnenesy  'John  Paleologus ;  as  may  be  feen  by  the  Infcriptron*  onthe  Se- 
ven Towers,  ancj  other  places  in  and.  about  the  Walls. . 


35° 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant 


in   en 
xn    ATT o 
KPATOP02 
nAAAIO 
A  o  r  o  T. 


Of  John  Paleologus  Emperor 
in  Jefus  Chrift. 

■    - 

THESE  following  are  as  you  go  from  the  Seven  Towers  to  the 

nASl'  PQMAI0I2     METAS     AESHOTH2      eVe-I-P  £     PGMANOS 
NEON   nANMEflSTON     TQNAE    flTPTON     EK    BAQPflN. 

Romanus,  Illufirious  Emperor  of  all  the  Greeks,  did  rebuild  from  the 
very  Foundation  this  new  large  Tower. 

JO 

TITPrOE      BA2IAEIOT     K  A  I     K  O  N  S  T  AN  T  I  N  OT     niSTflN     EN 
Xfl    ATTOKPATOPfiN    ETSEBEI2    BASIAEI2    P  CI  M  E  fl  N. 

The  Tower  of  Bafilius  and  Conftantine,  faithful  Emperors  in  Jefus  Chrift, 


pious  KJngs  of  the  Romans. 


rrrpros   ©eosiaot    en 
KPISTfl    at  tokpatop  02. 


■ 


The  Tower  of  Theophilus  Emperor  in  Refits  Chriff. 

pit  pros   geo*iaot   kai   mi. 

_ 

XAHA    nlSTON     EN    xa    .  .  . 

ATTOKFATOPOH. 

The  Tower  of  Theophilus  and  Michael,  faithful  Emperors  in  Jefus  Chr itt. 

ANEKA1N120H  En  I  3A2  I AE  I  O  T  KAI  KONSTANTINOT  TON 
noP*TPOr£NNHTnN  ^IaO-KEIST^ON  SEBASTfiN  AEsnOTflN 
E'N    ETE    K.4>.  K.  A. 

This  Tower  w*s  renewed  under  Bafil  and  Conftantine  Porphyrogenetes, 
Servants  of  Jefus  Chrift  y  auguft  Emperors  in  the  Tear 

ANE. 


Defcription  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople. 

■ 
ANEKAINlSSH    Eni    MANOTHA    TOT      HAOXFl     BASlAElOs; 

PftME  IOT,,-ir'fOT     EN KAI     ATTOK.PATOPOS     p  O  M  A  I  Cl  N     TOr 

KOMNHNOT    EN    ETEI     4XOBMC. 

This  Tower  was  renewed  under  Manuel,  Servant  of  Jefus  ChriH,  Roman 
Emperor,  Son and  of  the  Roman  Emperor  Comnenes,  in  the  Tear 


ON    THS     0AAA2SH2    0PAT2MO2    MAPKQ     KPONfl    KATAONI 
nOAAfi     KAI    ^OiPJJ    PH  TNT  MEN  ON     nEsEIN     KATENArKASE 

nrproN   ek   baqpcn   basiaeios   eteipe   etzebhs   anas. 


■ 


This  Tower,  which  the  Concujjions  of  the  Sea,  violently  and  often  repeated 
had  brought  to  ruin,  was  rebuilt  from  the  Foundation  by  the  pious  J\Jng  Bafil, 

THERE  are  feven  Gates  from  the  Point  of  the  Seraglio  to  the  Seven 
Towers ;  five  land-ward,  and  eleven  on  the  Port :  but  whichever  Gate 
you  go  in  at,  you  mount  an  Afcent.  Conftantine,  who  defign'd  to  make 
Conftantinople  like  Rome,  could  not  have  found  a  better  Spot  for  Emi- 
nences :  it  is  a  very  tirefome  City  for  Foot-Travellers ;  Perfons  of  note 
go  on  horfe-back.  Before  we  enter  the  Town,  we  muft  once  more  ad- 
mire the  Outiide :  Nothing  upon  earth  can  be  more  delightful,  than  with 
one  Glance  of  the  Eye  to  difcover  all  the  Houfes  of  the  biggeft  City  in 
Europe,  whofe  Roofings,  TerrafTes,  Balconies,  and  Gardens,  form  a  Va- 
riety of  Amphitheatres  fet  off"  with  Bezeftains,  (Places  like  our  Changes, 
fof  felling  Wares)  Caravan-Serais,  (Houfes  of  Hofpitality)  Seraglios,  and 
efpecially  Mofques  or  Churches,  which  far  outflieW  ours  in  France.  Thefe 
Mofques,  tho  hideous  for  their  Bulk,  yet  in  appearance  they  have  nothing 
about  'em  but  what's  beautiful ;  the  Defects  and  OddnefTes  of  the  Turkijb 
Architecture  not  being  difcernable  lb  far  off:  on  the  contrary,  their 
principal  Domes,  aecompany'd  with  other  little  Domes,  both  cover'd 
with  Lead  of  Gilding ;  their  Steeples,  if  I  may  ufe  that  word  for  Towers 
very  flender  and  extremely  high,  with-the  Crefcent  at  top  :  all  together 
yield  a  charming  Spectacle  to  one  that  (lands  at  the  Entrance  of  the 
Canal  df  the  Black  Sea  ;•  nay,  this  Canal  it  felf  flrikes  you  with  admira- 
tion, for  Fanari-KJofc,    Chalcedony  Scutari^   and  the  adjoining  Country, 

have 


35 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant 


have  an  agreeable  efTed  upon  the  Eye,  when,  no  longer  able  to  bear  the 
Luftre  of  Constantinople,  you  turn  your  Face  to  the  right. 

•I  MUST  however  confefs,  that  the  Objects  we  had  feen  from  our 
Ship,  appear'd  quite  different,  on  comparing  them  with  thofe  that  pre- 
fented  rhemfelves  to  us  when  we  went  afliore.  I  know  not  whether 
it  was  the  Onions  they  fell  at  the  corner  of  every  Street,  that  awaken'd 
in  us  the  Idea  of  thole  famous  Temples  in  Egypt,  whofe  Outfide  dazled 
the. Beholder's  Eye  ;  but  I  could  not  help  comparing  Conjtantinople  with 
thoie  {lately  Edifices,  wherein  were  nothing  but  Crocodiles,  Rats,  Leeks, 
Onions,  which  thole  Idolaters  regarded  as  fo  many  Deities.  The  Houfes 
of  Galata,  where  we  landed,  are  low,  built  moftly  of  Wood  and  Mud, 
fo  that  a  Fire  confumes  thoufands  of  'em  in  a  day  ;  a  Difafter  which  fre- 
quently befals  'em,  either  from  the  Turks  fmoking  in  bed,  or  elfe  done  on 
purpole  by  the  Soldiers,  for  the  fake  of  pilfering :  it  would  be  no  great 
damage,  if  nothing  but  the  Houfe  was  deftroy'd,  for  they  cofl:  but  a 
trifle  to  build  again,  and  there's  Wood  enough  on  the  Coafts  of  the  Black 
Sea  to  rebuild  Conjtantinople  once  a  year,  if  occafion  were;  but  a  world 
of  Families  are  utterly  undone  by  the  burning  of  their  Merchandizes. 
'Tis  afmall  matter,  when  they  (peak  but  of  2  or  3000  Houfes  burnt:  a 
Man  has  •oftentimes  the  mortification  to  fee  his  Houfe  pull'd  down  and 
pillaged,  tho  the  Fire.be  200  paces  off;  efpecially  when  the  North-Eafl, 
«Cari-fei.  which  the  Turks  call  the  black  Wind,  is  in  its  fury.  They  have  found  no 
other  Remedy  to  prevent  the  whole  Town  from  being  devour'd,  but  only 
-"  to  blow  up  a  great  many  Houfes,    otherwife  the  Conflagration  would 

become  general.  The  foreign  Merchants  have  of  late  Years  wifely  be- 
thought themfelves  to  build  at  Galata  very  fiibflantial  Ware-houfes  of 
Free-flone,  (landing  fingle,  and  having  no  more  Windows  than  are  bare- 
ly necefTary;  the  Shutters  whereof,  as  well  as  the  Doors,  are  eover'd 
with  Iron  Plates. 

THE  Plague  and  the  Leventis,  next  to  Fire,  are  the  two  Scourges  of 
Conjtantinople :  it  is  true,  the  Turks  are  unworthy  to  live,  they  Hand  and 
fee  5  or  600  die  in  a  day  of  this  cruel  Diflemper,  without  doing  the  leaft 
thing  either  to  avoid  it  or  flruggle  againfl  it,  and  never  begin  then:  Pro- 
ceflions  till  it  fweeps  away  about  1 200  in  a  day.  They  buy  and  fell  the 
Goods  and  Houfhold  Stuff  of  the  Infe&ed,  juft  as  if  they  had  died  of 
I  Old- 


Defer iption  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  353 

Old- Age  or  a  violent  Death.  As  for  us,  we  had  the  Forecaft,  when  we  Letter  XT. 
let  out  from  Marfeilles,  to  lay  in  a  provifion  of  Lapis  Infernalis ;  and  if 
the  lead  Spot  had  appear'd  on  our  Body,  we  mould  not  have  fail'd  to 
tap  it  with  a  Lance,  fcarify  it,  and  clap  fome  of  this  cauterizing  Stone 
upon  it,  to  cat  away  as  foon  as  poilible  that  part  where  the  Strength  of 
the  Poiion  difcharges  it  felf :  befides  this,  we  would  have  made  ufe  of 
Treacle,  Or  vie  tan,  Englijh  Drops,  and  other  cordial  and  ipirituous  Me- 
dicaments, which  we  had  Box-fulls  of.  Theie  Remedies  mull  be  pre- 
ceded by  the  Uie  of  Emetick  Tartar,  which  is  to  be  repeated  according 
to  occafion  without  delay,  the  moment  the  Head  ails  any  thing,  or  the 
lead  Loathing  is  felt. 

AS  for  the  Lewntis,  who  are  Soldiers  of  the  Gallies  that  infult  Peo- 
ple with  their  Cutlafles  in  their  hand,  and  make  ugly  Faces  to  frighten 
iuch  as  don't  know  'em  ;  ibme  years  ago  the  Caimacan,  or  Governour 
of  the  City,  at  the  follicitation  of  the  EmbalTadors,  gave  Strangers  a 
perniiffion  to  defend  themfelves  againll  theie  diforderly  Rake-lhames, 
who  have  been  often  quclPd  by  dint  of  Sword  and  Piftol.  Tho  the 
Turkijb  Bravoes  look  on  us  as  a  parcel  of  very  aukard  Fellows,  that  know 
not  how  to  handle  our  Arms  nobly  and  with  a  good  grace ;  yet  they  fly 
from  the  Point  of  our  Swords.  Tbefe  Chrifiian  Dogs,  lay  they,  run  & 
Man  through  the  guts  at  once,  without  giving  him  time  to  defend  himfelf. 
Our  Swords  do  their  bufinefs  off-hand,  whereas  ibme  Movements  of  the 
Body  are  required  for  the  Ufe  of  a  Scymeter.  As  loon  as  ever  you  per- 
ceive in  the  ftreets  of  Conjhntinople  any  Perfons  making  towards  ye,  m 
a  Waillcoat  and  Drawers,  barc-legg'd,  with  only  Pumps  on,  and  a  Ponyard 
in  their  hand,  you  muil  uniheath  your  Sword ;  fome  have  the  precaution 
to  carry  it  naked  under  their  Coat  :  if  you  wear  a  Veil,  you  mould  not 
ilix  without  Pocket-Piflols,  well  charged  and  primed,  or  at  leaft  ibme- 
thin'g  like  'em.  A  certain  French  Merchant  one  day  put  to  flight  a  couple 
of  rhefe  Levant  is,  with  a  large  Ink-horn.,  which  they  took  for  fome  Fire- 
Arms:  they  fancy  our  Canes  have  Tucks  within  'em,  and  always  take 
their  meaiurcs  from  the  Countenance  we  bear  towards  'cm.  To  avoid 
their  Inlults,  People  ibmctimes  take  Janizaries  for  their  Guard. 

THE  Marquiis  de  Ferriol  gave  us  ibme  of  his   Guard  to   go  fclong 

with  us  :  he  lodg'd  us  in  the  Chateau-Ga/l/ard,  a  Quarter  in  the  Palais 

VoL  L  Z  z  tie 


354  &  Voyoae  into  the  Levant 

de  Trance,  which  he  had  allotted  for  us :  this  Palace  feem'd  to  us  to  be 
an  inchanted  Place,  for  the  Mifery  we  had  feen  in  the  Archipelago,  had 
given  us  a  very  difadvantageous  Notion  of  the  reft  of  Turk],  The  Pa- 
lace of  frame  is  the  moft  agreeable  Houfe  in  all  Conjlantinople,  to  Per- 
fons  bred  up  in  Europe ;  it  was  built  by  order  of  Henry  IV.  when  M.  de 
Breves  was  Embaflador,  but  there  were  fine  Apartments  made  bv  M.  de 
Nointel :  Gentlemen  there  meet  with  every  thing  that's  fit  for  'em.  Out 
of  this  Palace,  they  know  not  what  Good  Eating  means;  no,  not  if  you 
were  to  go  to  the  further  end  of  Japan.  The  Embaffador's  Table  is  as 
well  fupply'd  as  the  beft  in  Paris  •  inftead  of  Copper- VefTels  tinn'd  over 
which  even  the  Grand  Signior  ufes  in  the  Seraglio,  you  fee  nothing  in  his 
Excellency's  Houfe  but  Piles  of  filver  Plates,  and  Buffets  charg'd  with 
Bafons,  Ewers,  Salvers,  Vafes,  and  Goblets  of  the  fame  Metal.  All  the 
Nations  of  the  World  are  tempted  thither  by  the  Magnificence  and  en- 
gaging well-bred  Behaviour  of  the  Owner :  we  cannot  fufficiently  admire 
with  what  Refblution  the  Marquifs  de  Ferriol  maintains  the  Grandeur  of 
the  French  Name,  at  a  Court  where  one  is  every  day  expos'd  to  the  Ca- 
prices of  new  Minifters. 

WHILE  our  Turkijb  Habits  were  making,  we  rambled  about  the 
Town  in  our  French  Drefs,  with  a  Sword  to  our  fide,  a  powder'd  Wig 
and  Hat  cock'd,  tho  nothing  is  more  ofFenfive  to  the  Muffulmans,  efpe- 
cially  fuch  as  live  further  up  in  the  main  Land.  'Tis  not  lb  with  thofe 
of  Conjtantinople  and  Smyrna  ;  by  a  frequency  of  feeing  us  in  our  ordinary 
Equipage,  they  are  familiarized  to  our  ways.  We  mould  have  made  no 
difficulty  of  walking  the  flreets  without  Janizaries,  if  my  Lord  EmbafTa- 
dor,  in  regard  we  were  employ'd  by  his  Majefty,  had  not  order'd  fome  to 
attend  us  wherever  we  went. 

THE  Streets  of  Conjtantinople  are  very  ill  paved,  fome  not  at  all  • 
the  only  Street  that  is  practicable,  is  that  which  goes  from  the  Seraglio 
to  the  Gate  of  Jdrianople :  the  reft  are  clofe,  dark,  deep,  and  look  like 
To  many  cut-throat  Lanes ;  and  yet  you  frequently  meet  with  good 
Buildings,  Bagnios,  Bazars,  and  fome  Houfes  of  Great  Men,  built  with 
Lime  and  Sand,  and  angled  with  Free-ftone,  the  Apartments  running 
very  cleverly  into  one  another. 

4  WE 


///;-<'A   ft ' cvnc/K  of  fbiri/basi/zsiopr/i 


7-c/-J. 


Taa.3S.<>  . 


///,;•/'//<?///<■//  ///  //////•  0uirlfbfvru. 


•' 


Defcription  of  the  City  of  Gonftantinople.  3*55 

WE  thought  the  Place  more  populous  than  they  told  us  it  was;  the  Letter XI. 
Houfes  arc  but  two  Stories  high,  and  are  well  filfd.     I  make  no  queflion 
but  there  are  as  many  People  at  Conjlantinople  as  in  Paris :  you  meet  with 
but  few  Turks  in  the  ftreets,  they  keep  within  doors,  without  concerning 
themfelves  about  what  partes  abroad,  except  certain  Women  belonging  to 
the  abfent  Baihaws,  and  thefe  have  no  averfion  to  Strangers;  but  their 
Intrigues  are  attended  with  Danger,  and  Tendernefs  is  lbmetimes  iuc- 
ceeded  by  Cruelty.     TheHusbands,  that  they  may  have  no  pretence  for 
.  going  abroad,  have  made  'em  believe  there's  no  Paradile  for  Women ;  or 
if  there  be  one,  they  may  attain  it  by  faying  their  Prayers  at  home. 
To  amufe  'em,  they  build  Baths  for  'em,  and  treat  'em  with  Coffee  :  but 
notwithftanding  all  this  Precaution,  a  way  is  often  found  to  introduce 
haudibme  young  Fellows,  difguiied  like.Female  Slaves,  with  Toys  to  fell. 
The  JemjJj  Women  i  are  dextrous  at  promoting  the  Belles  PaJJions ;  how- 
ever, there  is  not  nearfo  much  intriguing  here,  as  with  us:  and  moil  of 
fneTurkijb  Ladies  are  obliged  to  ftay  at  home,  and  bufy  themfelves  in 
Embroidery,  for  want  of  better  Employment.     The  Greek,  Jewijf),  and 
Armenian  Women,  have  more  liberty,  but  don't  go  abroad  fb  often  as 
our  Women,  becaufe  the  Slaves  do  all  that's  to  be  done  without  doors, 
as  going  to  Market,  c?c     Paris  would  feem  far  lefs  populous,  did  we  not 
all  the  day  long  meet  in  the  ftreets  Women  of  all  Ages  and  Conditions. 

MANY  things  have  contributed  to  fill  Constantinople  with  People, 
beyond  die  other  Cities. of  Turky :  Traffick;  Hopes  of  rifing  at  Court, 
where  there  are  no  People  of  Quality,  and  confequently  it  is  natural  for 
a  Man  to  flatter  himfelf  that  he  may  be  advanced  for  his  Merit  and 
Mony ;  the  Mifery  that  is  fuffer'd  in  the  Provinces,  where  the  Bafhaws 
have  always  exercifed  grievous  Cruelties;  laftl.y,  that  prodigious  Trade  of 
Slaves,  which  is  inceffantly  carrying  on :  thefe  latter  increaie  and  mul- 
tiply by  Marriage,  and  fwell  the  number  of  Inhabitants.  In  all  Ages  it 
feems  to  have  been  a  Maxim  to  bring  to  Confantinople  powerful  Colo- 
nies ;  I  fpeak  not  of  the  Roman  Families,  which  Confiantine  engaged  to 
•fettle  there:  Glyas  affirms,  that  that  Emperor  having  confer'd  on  the 
Senators  that  follow'd  him  the  Command  of  his  Armies  in  Perfia,  he 
made  'em  leave  their  Rings  behind  'em ;  thefe  he  lent  to  their  Wives,  to 
•oblige  'em  to  quit  Rome,  and  come  away  to  their  Husbands,  and  fix 

2z2  them- 


^6  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant 

themfelves  at  his  Court.  Mahomet  II.  having  taken  Amafiris,  belonging 
to  the  Genoefe,  on  the  Co  ails  of  the  Black  Sea,  ient  away  almoft  all  its 
Inhabitants  to  Conftantinople,  Ann.  1460.  In  1514,  Selim  having  made 
himfelf  mailer  of  Tauris  in  Perfia,  brought  from  thence  all  the  Mecha- 
nicks.  Barbarojfa  often  tranfported  thither  the  Inhabitants  of  iuch  Iflands 
as  he  conquer'd  in  the  Archipelago  :  in  155  7,  he  caus'd  16000  Prribners 
to  pais  thither  from  Corfu.  In  the  lail  Wars  of  Hungary,,  what  Shoals  of 
both  Sexes  were  carry'd.  away  to  Conjlantinople  ! 

THE  firil  Walk  a  Stranger  ufually  takes  in  Conflantinople,  is  to  the 
Royal  Moiques ;  of  which  there   are  feven  06  call'd.     Theie  Edifices, 
which  are  very  handfbme  in  their  kind,  are  compleatly  finiih'd,  and  kept 
in  perfect  good  condition  -r  whereas  in  France  we  have  fcarce  iuch  a  thing 
as  a  finiih'd  Church :  if  the  Nave  is  admired  for  its  Largeneis  and  Beauty 
of  its  Arch-work,  the  Choir  is  imperfect ;  if  theie  two  parts  are  eom- 
pleat,  the  Frontiipiece  is  not  begun  :  raoit  of  our  Churches,  efpecially  in 
Paris,  are  hedg'd  in  with  profane  Buildings,  and  Tradeiinens  Shops,  to 
make  advantage  of  every  the  leail  Spot  of  Ground;  the  Church  is  often 
Co  choak'd  up  with  Houies,  there's  no  Avenue,  no  Vacancy  left.     Where- 
as the  Moiques  of  Constantinople  iland  fingle,  within  a  ipacious  Incioiure, 
planted  with  fine  Trees,  adorn'd  with  delicate  Fountains :  they  iufler  not 
a  Dog  to  enter,  no  one  prefumes  to  hold  difcourfe  there,  or  do  the  leail 
irreverent  Action  ;  they  are  well  endow'd,  and  far  exceed  ours  in  Riches : 
tho  their  Architecture  is  inferior  to  ours,  yet  they  fail  not  to  make  an 
knpreflion  on  the  Beholder  by  their  Largenefs  and  Solidity.     In  all  parts 
©f  the  Levant,,  the  Domes  are  well  executed ;  thoie  of  the  Moiques  are 
©f  art  exact  Proportion,    and  accompany'd  with  other  imaller  Domes, 
which  make  'em  appear  full  and  comely  to  the  Eye  :  it  is  not  ib  with  their 
Minarets,  which  are  Spires  as  high  as  any  of  our  Belfries,  and.asimall 
about  as  a  Nine-pin,  in  a  manner.     Theie  Minarets  are  a  great  Ornament 
to  the  Moiques,.  and.  to  the  whole  Town  :  however,  tho  we  have  no 
Work  of  that  Boldnefs  among  us,  our  Eyes  are  form'd  to  our  Belfries, 
and  our  Ears  to  the  Sound  of  our  Bells,  which  are  more  harmonious 
chan.  the  Singings  of  the  Muefins. ;  ib  they  term  thoie  who  call,  the  Peo- 
|»le  to  Piayers^  in  a  fingjng.Tone,  from  the  top  of  the  Minarets;. 

ST. 


Defcription  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  357 

ST.  SOPHIA  is  the  mod  perfect  of  all  thcfe  Mofques ;  its  Situation  Letter XI. 
is  advantageous,  for  it  (lands  in  one  of  the  bed  and  fined  parts  of  Con-  v-'"v~"*-' 
jlantinople,  at  top  of  the  antient  Byzantium.,  and  of  an  Eminence  that 
defcends  gradually  down  to  the  Sea  by  the  Point  of  the  Seraglio.  This 
Church,  which  is  certainly  the  fined  Structure  in  the  world  next  to  St.  Pe- 
ter's at  Rome,  looks  to  be  very  unwieldy  without :  the  Plan  is  almod 
fquare,  and  the  Dome,  which  is  the  only  thing  worth,  remarking,  reds 
outwardly  on  four  prodigious  large  Towers  ;  which  have  been  added  of 
late  years  to  fupport  this  vad  Building,  and  make  it  immoveable,  in  a 
Country  where  whole  Cities  are  often  overthrown  by  Earthquakes. 

THE  Frontifpiece  has  nothing  grand,  nor  anfwerable  to  the  Idea  Men 
have  of  St.  Sophia.:  you  fird  enter  in  at  a  Portico  about  fix  Toifes  (Fa- 
thom) broad,  which  in  the  time  of  the  Greek  Emperors  ferv'd  for  a 
Yedibulum.  This  Portico  communicates  with  the  Church  by  nine  Mar- 
ble Folding-Doors,  the  Leaves  whereof,  which  are  Brafs  adorn'd  with 
BafTo-Relievo's,  are  extremely  magnificent :  on  the  middlemod  of  'em 
you  fee  tome  Figures  of  Mofaick  Work,  nay,  fome  Paintings  toe  The 
Vedibulum  is  join'd  to  another,  which  is  parallel  to  it,  but  has  no  more 
than  five  brazen  Doors  without  Bas-Reliefs :.  the  Leaves  were  charg'd  with 
CrolTes,  but  the  Turks  have  only  left  the  upright  Pod.  of  thefe  CroiTe.% 
and  have  taken  away  the  Crofs-Beam  of  'em.  You  don't  enter  front-wife 
into-  thefe  two  Vedibulums,  but  only  at  doors  open'd  on  the  fides ;  and 
according  to  the  Rules  of  the  Greek  Church,  thefe  Vedibulums  were  ne- 
cefTary  for  the  placing  thofe  that  were  didinguifh'd.  either  for  being  about 
to  receive  the  Sacraments,  or  undergo  publick  Penance.  Parallel  to 
thefe  Vedibulums,  the  Turks  have  built  a  great  Cloider^  for  lodging  the 
Officers  of  the  Mofque. 

'A  DOME  of  an  admirable  dructure  holds  the  place  of  a  Nave  ■ '  7&c<  y* 

•  '•'  •  •'      ; ' -'  '  111,  SnAo?,  trallus, 

at  the  foot  of  this  Dome  runs  a  Colonnade,  which  bears  a  Gallery  five  miib,  hemif- 
Toifes  broad,  the  Arch-work  whereof  is  exquifite..    In  the.  Interfaces  Rido."""'  te " 
of  the  Columns,  the  Parapet  is  adorn'd  with  CrofTes  in  Bas-Relief:  thefe  ??*P**5'" 
the  Turks  have  ufed  very  ill :  by  fome  it  is  call'd  Conftantine's  Gallery  ;  it  c)xh'  A  D,m^ 
was  formerly  fet  apart  for  the  Women.     At  the  Roof,,  and  on  the  Cornifh 
of  the  Dome,  runs  a  fmall  Gallery,  or  rather  a  Baludrade,  no  broader 
than  juft  for  one  Perfon  to  pafs  at  a  time  •  and  above  this,  there's  alfb 

another :. 


3S8 


A  "Vo  yage  into  ifo  Levant. 


another:  thefe  Baluftrades  make  a  marvellous  figure  in  time  of  their  Ra- 
mezan,  when  they  are  all  adornM  with  Lamps.  The  Columns  of  this 
Dome  have  fcarce  any  belly  or  fwelling,  and  their  Chapiters  look'd  to  be 
of  a  fingular  Order  :  the  Dome  is  eighteen  Toifes  in  the  clear,  (that  is, 
from  Wall  to  Wall)  and  reds  upon  four  huge  Pillars,  about  eight  Toifes 
thick  ;  the  Arch  feems  a  perfect  Demi-fphere,  illuminated  with  twenty 
four  Windows,  difpofed  in  a  Circumference. 

FROM  the  Eaft  part  of  this  Dome,  you  pafs  (trait  on  to  the  Demi- 

•  The  space  be- dome  which  terminates  the  Edifice.  '  This  Dome,  or  Shell,  was  the 
'vome  lad  the  Sandtuary  of  the  Chriftians,  and  the  great  Altar  was  placed  there.  Ma~ 
faTd "xZl *  b°met  H-  having  conquer'd  this  City,  went  and  fat  here  with  his  Legs 
K6fx«,  vb<?«>  crofsM  under  him  after  the  manner  of  the  Turks ;  after  faying  his  Prayers, 

he  caus'd  himfelf  to  be  fhaved ;  and  then  faften'd  to  one  of  the  Pillars 
where  was  the  Patriarch's  Throne,  a  fine  piece  of  embroider'd  Stim^ 
with  Jrabick  Characters  onit,  which  had  ferv'd  as  a  Skreen  in  theMofque 
of  Meca.     Such  was  the  Confeeration  of  St.  Sophia  !     There  is  at  prefent 

•  Maharab.  in  this  Sancluary  nothing  but  the  '  Niche  where  they  keep  the  Alcoran ; 
Marai4'.  ^  looks  towards  Meca,  and  the  Mttjfulmdns  always  turn  that  way  when 
Guebic.         they  fay  their  Prayers :  the  Mufti's  Chair  is  hard  by,  it  is  rais'd  on  feve- 

ral  fteps,  and  on  the  fide  of  it  is  a  kind  of  Pulpit,  for  the  Officers  to  re- 
peat certain  Prayers. 

THIS  Mofque,  built  like  a  Greek  Crofs,  is  in  the  clear  42  Toifes 
long,  38  broad:  the  Dome  fakes  up  almofl  all  this  Square.     They  al- 
lured me  there  were  no  fewer  than  107  Columns  of  different  Marble,  of 
Porphyry,  or  Egyptian  Granate ;  we  had  not  time  to  count  'em  our  felves. 
The  whole  Dome  is  lined  or  pav'd  with  Varieties  of  Marble :  the  In- 
-cruftations  of  the  Gallery  are  Mofaick,  moftly  done  with  Cubes  or  Dice 
of  Glafs,  which  are  loofen'd  every  day  from  their  Cement,  but  their  Co- 
■KemxeyWre  lour  is  unalterable.     Thefe  glafs  Dice  are  real  Doublets,  for  the  variega- 
T'Kit?yjp™  te^  ^^  is  cover'^  w^tn  a  piece  of  Glafs  very  thin,  and  glued  on,  fo  as 
**^e>raK.    nothing  but  hot  boiling  Water  can  make  it  fcale  off:  if  ever  Mofaicks 

Anonym,  vt-  o  o 

ftript.Conftan.  fhould  come  again  in  fafliion  among  us,  we  could  eafily  do  the  like.     Tho 

•the  Application  of  thefe  two  pieces  of  Glafs,  containing  the  colour'd 

Plate,  be  trifling,  yet  it  proves  the  Invention  of  Doublets  not  to  be 

inew.     The  Turks  have  defhoy'd  the  Nofe  and  Eyes  of  fbme  Figures, 

as 


Defer iption  of  the  City  of  Confbntinopie.  359, 

as  well  as  the  Faces  of  four  Cherubims  placed  in  the  Angles  of  the  Letter  XI. 
Dome,.  v^vv^ 

THIS  Church  is  not  the  firft  that  in  Conjlantinople  bore  the  Name  V*  20?;a. 
of  St.  Sophia  i  '  Conjtantine  the  Great   was   the  firft  that  confecrated  a '  Tteophin. 
Chappel  there  to  the  Wifdom  of  the  Uncreated  Word;  but  whether  that  p.V.Diac.L-L 
Building  was  too  finall,  or  whether  it  was  lome  time  after  deftroy'd  by  ^e11,b°l,Ca!* 
an  Earthquake,  '  Conftantim  his  Son  caus'<f  a  larger  Church  to  be  built  CJP- 49. 
inftead  of  the  former:  the  Sanctuary  and  the  greateft  part  of  this  Church  CA^l\  '  ,2' 

were  ruin'd  in  the  Reign  of  Arcadius,  when  a  Tumult  was  ftirr'd  up  I>h,loftor§- l;b- 

D  f  ;,   op.  3. 

againft  St.  'John  Chryfojlom  Patriarch  of  '  Conjl antinople ;  nay,  his"  Party  isNicephor.CaU 
faid  to  have  fet  it  on  fire.     It  was  again  burnt  under  Honorius.  and  re- ,  '     '  K.'V 

O  '  '  Socrat.  lib. 6, 

eftablifh'd  by  youngTheodoJiits ;  but  in  the  fifth  Year  of  Juftinian,  St.So-"P-  >6- 
phia  efcaped  not  the  general  Burning,  in  that  5  Infurrection,  wherein  Hy-  ,  "^^u 
patius  was  made  Emperor  in  his  own  defpite.     Jyjlinian  having  quelPd  the  *  Manuel. 
Sedition,  and  punifh  d  thofe  that  raifed  it,  caufed  the  fame  year  to  be  &dif,  Efeeant 
built  the  ftately  6  Edifice  ftill  exifting.     7  M.  du  Cange  proves,  that  it  was  '  in  Notis  in 
finifh'd  in  five  years,  and  not   feventeen,  as  fbme  Greek  Authors  have 
written :  the  Emperor  was  fo  highly  pleas'd,  he  burft  into  an  Exclama- 
tion, 1  have  outdone  thee,  0  Solomon  !  but  in  the  $2d  Year  of  Juftiman,  N«mm&,  n< 
an  Earthquake  threw  down  the  Demi-dome,  and  the  Altar  was  crufh'd  vfcuTsa'io- 
with  its  Fall :  it  was  re-edify'd,  and  the  Church  confecrated  a-new.     Zp-  ™0"'  Coi'\ 

J      '  ^     de  Qng.Conft. 

naras  obferves,  that  Jujtinian  did  great  injury  to  polite  Literature,  in  ap- 
plying to  this  Building  the  Stipends  that  were  ufuaily  given  the  ProfefTors 
in  every  Town  all  over  the  Empire.     Rather  than  not  gratify  his  Itch  of 
Building,  he  melted  down  the  filver  Statue  of  Theodofmsy  which  Arcadim 
had  erected,  and  which  weigh'd  7400  pound.     To  cover  the  Dome  of 
St.  Sophia,  Juftinian  employ'd  the  Leaden  Pipes  which  ferv'd  to  carry- 
moft  of  the  Water  for  the  ufe  of  the  City.     The  chief  Architects  that 
were  concern'd  in  this  famous  Church,  were  8  Anthemius  of  Tralles,  and  8  procop.  & 
lfidorus  of  Miletits :  the  firft  was  efteem'd  the  greateft  Mechanift  of  his  mi~-  W- 
time :  he  was,  fbme  think,  no  ftranger  to  the  Art  of  making  Gunpow- 
der ;  for  9  Agathias  avers,  that  he  would  exactly  mimick  Thunder,  Light-  ,  Lib 
ning,  and  Earthquakes.     The  Emperor  Bafu  the  Macedonian  caus'd  the  - 
Weftern  Demi-dome  to  be  ftrengthen'd :  laftly,  this  Church  was  fo  da- 
maged by  another  Earthquake. under  the  Empreis  Anne  and  John  Paleo- 

logus 


3<5o  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

logus  her  Son,  that:  it  required  much  Expence  of  Time  and  Treafare  to 

repair :  for  which  reafbn  the  Marriage  of  the  Emperor  with  Helm  Daughter 

Cantacuz.  ub.  of  Cantacu&enus,  was  folemnized  in  the  Church  of  Blaquernes,  dedicated 

Limd.Hift.   to  the  Holy  Virgin.     Mahomet  II.  was  Co  pleas'd  with  St.  Sophia,  that  he 

Mufliilm.  5S2.  caufe<j  in  to  j)C  repaired,  and  the  Turks  have  ever  fince  kept  it  with  the 

utmoft  care. 

AFTER  vifiting  St.  Sophia,  we  were  carry'd  thirty  or  forty  paces  ofF 
Twbc.  t0  be  fhewn  the  Maufoleums  of  certain  Ottoman  Princes :  they  are  four 

fmall  low  Buildings  with  Domes  cover'd  over  with  Lead,  fupported  by 
Columns  hexagonally  placed.  The  Baluflrades  are  of  Wood,  and  the 
Coffins  cover'd  with  plain  Cloth :  the  Emperors  are  diftinguiih'd  from 
their  Wives  only  by  their  Turbant,  which  is  on  a  Pillar  at  the  head  of 
the  Coffin,  and  this  Coffin  is  fomewhat  "bigger,  as  well  as  the  Torches 
that  burn  at  each  end.  There's  no  Torch  to  that  of  Sultan  Mourafs 
Brother,  tho  there  are  to  every  one  of  the  Grand  Signior's  Wives.  They 
pointed  us  to  fome  Handkerchiefs  like  Cravats  round  the  Necks  of  cer- 
tain Figures,  in  number  120,  being  Reprefentations  of  that  Emperor's 
Children,  which  were  all  ftrangled  in  a  day  by  his  SucoefTbr's  order. 
They  have  not  been  fparing  of  Marble  in  thefe  Maufoleums,  which  are 
conftantly  illuminated  night  and  day,  not  only  with  the  Torches  about 
the  Coffins,  but  many  others  :  they  have  alio  chain'd  thereto  feveral 
Copies  of  the  Alcoran,  to  be  perufed  by  fuch  as  refbrt  thither  to  pray. 
Befides  thofe  who  come  out  of  Devotion,  there  are  .here,  as  alfo  in  the 
other  Maufoleums,  a  Company  of  poor  Alms-People,  who  have  a  Foun- 
dation hard  by  :  thefe  wear  wooden  Chaplets,  the  Beads  whereof  are 
about  the  fize  of  a  Musket-Ball.  I  have  forgot  the  Names  of  the  other 
Saltans  who  are  in  thefe  Maufoleums-  I  think  they  mention'd  to  us- 
Sultan  Selnn  and  Sultan  Muftapba, 

HARD  by  isfeen  an  old  Tower,  faid  to  have  ferv'd  as  a  Church. to 
the  Chriftians ;  they  keep  in  it  feveral  wild  Beads,  fuch  as  Lions,  Leopards, 
Tvgcrs,  Linxcs,  Jackals :  thefe  lafl:  are  between  a  Fox  and  a  Wolf,  and 
in  the  night  make  a  crying  like  Children  pain'd  with  Gripings. 

THE  other  Royal  Moiques  of  Conf.antinople  may  be  reckon'd  &  many 
Copies  of  St.  Sophia,  more  or  iefs  rcfembling  this  Original ;  they  are 
Domes  of  a  goodly  appearance,    accompany'd  with  many  other  leifer 

4-  Domes : 


-KzLJ^ 


Defcription  of  the  Gty  of  Conftantinople.  361 

Domes:  the  Building  always  ftands  by  it  felf  in  an  Inclofure  planted  with  Letter  XL 
Trees,    adorn'd  with  Fountains,    Oratories  to   pray  in,   and  all  other  ^-<?s*v^»-* 
Conveniences  necelfary    to    the  Exercife  of  the  Mahometan  Religion. 
As  for   the  Minarets,   that  is,    thofe    flender  Spires   before  mention'd, 
there's  no  Royal  Mofque  without  two  at  lead ;  fome  have  four,  nay  fix 
of  'em. 

AT  the  antient  Hippodrome  (or  Running-place  for  Hodes)  now 
call'd  Atmeidan  Mofque,  each  Minaret  has  three  ftone  Galleries :  before 
you  enter  this  Mofque,  you  go  through  a  Periftyle,  which  is  a  fort  of 
Cloifter,  arch'd  over,  and  cover'd  with  little  Domes,  and  fupported  by 
Columns.  The  Pavement  is  of  a  very  beautiful  Marble,  as  alfo  an 
hexagonal  Fountain  which  is  in  the  middle,  cover'd  likewife  with  a  Dome 
form'd  by  Grates  of  gilded  Iron.  This  Mofque,  and  the  other  Royal 
Maufoleums  which  the  Mujfulmans  have  built,  are  lighted  with  a  great 
many  more  Lamps  than  St.  Sophia ;  and  among  the  Lamps  of  the  new 
Mofque  are  placed  Chryftal  Balls,  branch'd  Candlefticks,  Oflrich-Eggs, 
and  fiich-like  pieces,  to  pleafe  the  Eye.  They  fhew'd  us  a  Globe  of  Glafs, 
wherein  was  reprefented  in  Bas-Relief,  with  wonderful  patience,  the  Plan 
of  the  Mofque.  The  Turbe,  or  Maufoleum  of  Sultan  Achmet,  is  behind 
this  Mofque,  Northward. 

OF  all  the  Mofques  in  Conftantinople,  there's  none  comes  near  to 
St.  Sophia  in  the  Beauty  of  its  Dome,  but  the  Solymania,  founded  by  So- 
lyman  II.  the  mofl  magnificent  of  all  the  Sultans ;  nay,  its  Outftde  out- 
does St.  Sophia  :  its  Windows  are  larger  and  better  difpofed,  its  Galleries 
more  regular  and  flately  ;  the  Whole  is  built  of  the  fineft  Stones  that 
could  be  found  among  the  Ruins  of  Chdcedon.  The  indifpenfable  Necef- 
fity  the  Mujfulmans  are  under  of  making  their  Ablutions,  obliges  'em  to 
build  large  Cloifters  near  the  Royal  Mofques :  the  Fountain  is  always 
placed  in  the  middle,  and  the  Wafhing-places  round  about. 

THE  Maufoleum  of  its  Founder,  and  that  of  the  Sultana  his  Wife, 
are  behind  the  Mofque  under  very  rich  Domes  :  Solyman's  Coffin  is  co- 
ver'd with  a  fine  piece  of  Embroidery,  reprefenting  the  Town  of  Meca, 
from  whence  it  was  brought.  At  the  head  of  that  Prince's  Coffin  are 
two  Heron's  Feathers  befet  with  precious  Stones :  here  are  conflautly 
burning  feven  huge  Tapers,  and  a  great  many  Lamps ;  Copies  of  the 
Vol.  I.  A  a  a  Alcoran 


i&8  A  VoroAE  into  the  Levant. 

Alcoran  are  chained  up  and  down  in  divers  places,  and  Perfons  in  pay 
to  read  'em :  the  Turks  think  the  Dead  are  relieved  by  Prayers. 

THE  Validea,  Co  callM  from  Valide  its  Fouudrefs,  Wife  of  Ibrahim, 
and  Mother  of  Mahomet  IV.  is  another  fine  Edifice  placed  on  the  Port 
hear  the  Seraglio.  The  Inftde  is  lined  with  fine  Dutch  Ware,  but  its 
Colonnade  is  of  Marble,  with  Chapiters  after  the  TurkifJj  way  *,  mofl  of 
the  Columns  were  fetch'd  from  the  Ruins  of  Troy  :  its  Lamps,  branch'd 
Candleflicks,  ivory  Balls,  chryftal  Globes,  are  very  ornamental.  The 
whole  Work  feems  to  be  more  delicate  than  the  other  Mofques,  and  has 
nothing  Gothick,  tho  much  in  the  Turkijb  Tafte :  the  Arches  over  the 
Doors  and  Windows  are  well  defign'd  ;  its  two  Minarets  have  each  three 
handfbme  Galleries :  'tis  furprizing  that  the  Turks,  who  don't  often  raife 
fuch  Fabricks,  mould  find  Architects  skilful  enough  to  build  'em. 

THE  Situation  of  this  Mofque,  which  is  full  in  fight  of  the  Seraglio, 
and  in  the  mofl  frequented  part  of  the  Town,  makes  it  be  prefer'd  be- 
fore all  others  on  publick  Rejoicing-Days  :  they  don't  content  themfelves 
with  crouding  with  Lamps  the  Galleries  of  its  Minarets,  but  throw  fe- 
veral  Cords  at  different  heights  between  one  Spire  and  another ;  thefe 
Cords  not  only  fupport  the  Name  and  Cypher  of  the  Grand  Signior,  re- 
prefented  by  imall  burning  Lamps,  but  like  wife  the  Reprefentation  of 
Towns,  and  the  principal  Victories  that  give  occafion  to  the  Feflival. 

I N  thele  Illuminations,  every  thing  glitters,  the  very  Crefcents  are  in 
a  blaze.     Were  the   antient   "Byzantines  to  return  to  Life,  they  would 
doubtlefs   be  aftonifh'd   at    the   prodigious  Dimenfions    of  their   City, 
which  at  this  day  extends  to  the  furthermoft  part  of  the  Haven,  where- 
as in  their  time  it  took  up  only  the  Southern  Entrance :  but  they  would 
not  be  furprized  to  fee  the  Crefcent,  it  being  the  Symbol  of  Byzantium. 
Sc^ir.  Byzam.  We  are  told  the  reafon  of  it  by  Stephens  the  Geographer,  a  Native  of 
this  City.     Philip  of  Macedon,  Father  of  Alexander  the  Great,  meeting 
with  mighty  difficulties  in  carrying  on  the  Siege  of  Byzantium,  took  the 
opportunity  of  a  very  dark  Night  to  fet  Workmen  to  undermine  the 
Walls,  fo  as  to  make  a  Breach  for  his  Troops  to  enter  the  Place,  with- 
out being  percciv'd  by  the  Enemy  :  but  luckily  for  the  Befieged,  the 
Moon  appearing,  gave  'em  light  into  the  Defign,  and  made  it  mifcarry. 
The  Inhabitants^  in  acknowledgment,   erected  a  Statue  to  Hecate  on 

the 


Defcription  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  363 

the  Port;  and  this  place,  which  before  was  call'd  Bofphorm,  on  account  Letter  XL 
of  an  Ox's  fwimming  it  over  to  Afta  on  a  certain  time,  went  afterwards  ^~V-"^J 
by  the  name  of  Phofphorus,  on  occafion  of  Diana  the  Light-bringer :  'tisH^TJiA^Tw- 
likely  that  the  Church  of  St.  Plwtina  of  Topana  was  built  on  the  Foun- 
dation of  fome  Temple  of  the  fame  Diana.     Triflanus  has  publifh'd  the  Comment. 
Tvoe  of  a  beautiful  Medal  of  Trajan,  on  the  Reverfe  whereof  is  a  Cref-      '      ' 

J 1  J      '  BTZANTI- 

cent  furmounted  by  a  Star;    and  in  the  Legend  'tis  notify'd,  that  theNH  zaT. 
Town  was  faved  by  favour  of  that  Crelceut,  or  by  the  help  of  Diana,  vlaix, ' 
whole  Symbol  it  was.    There  are  feveral  Medals  of  the  fame  Type  in 
the  King's  Cabinet,  in  the  name  of  the  Bj&antines,  with  the  Heads  of  btzanti- 
Diana,   Trajan,   Julia   Domna  Wife   of  Severus  i    the  Turks  have  Only 
adopted  the  Crelcent,  which  they  met  with  up  and  down  among  the 
antient  Buildings  of  the  City. 

O  F  all  the  Sultanas  that  ever  meddled  with  Politicks,  Valide,  before 
mention'd,  was  the  moft  fagacious  in  managing  the  Affairs  of  the  Porte, 
and  acquired  to  her  felf  an  incredible  Authority  and  Intereft :  file  pitch'd 
upon  the  moft  advantageous  place  of  all  Conftantinople,  to  difplay  her 
Magnificence ;  before  her,  no  Sultana  had  the  privilege  to  erect  a  Royal 
Molque ;  for  as  to  that  of  St.  Francis,  befides  its  being  no  Royal  one, 
the  Mother  of  Sultan  Achmet  III.  now  reigning,  only  converted  into  an 
ordinary  Molque  the  Church  of  the  Italian  Francifcans,  belonging  to  the 
Suburbs  of  Galata. 

A  SMALL  matter  fuffices  to  maintain  an  ordinary  Molque :  as  for 
the  Royal  Mofques,  the  Sultans,  according  to  their  Law,  can't  build  one 
till  they  have  obtain'd  fignal  Victories  over  the  Enemies  of  the  Empire ; 
nay,  the  Charges  of  building  and  endowing  them,  mull  be  defray'd  out 
of  their  Conquefts :  for  which  reafon,  Sultan  Achmet  having  built  a  new 
Mofque  againft  the  Advice  of  the  Doctors  of  the  Law,  who  reprelented 
to  him  in  vain,  that  he  having  taken  no  Town  nor  Caftle,  ought  not  to 
undertake  fo  expenfive  a  Work,  thefe  Doctors  gave  it  the  name  of  the 
Mofque  or  Temple  of  an  Incredulous. 

THESE  Mofques  require  fuch  immenfe  Sums  for  their  Support,  that 
they  coniume  a  Third  of  the  Land-Revenue  of  the  Empire.  The  Kiflar- 
Aga,  or  Chief  of  the  black  Eunuchs,  is  the  Super-Intendant  of  them ; 
'tis  he  that  difpoles  of  all  the  Ecclefiaftical  Offices  belonging  to  the 

Aaa  2  Royal 


36+ 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 


Royal  Mofques,  the  chief  of  which  are  at  Confiantinople,  Adrianople,  and 
Prufa.    'Tis  affirm'd,  that  the  Revenue  of  St.  Sophia  is  800,000  Livres^ 
The  Grand  Signior  pays  for  the  Ground  on  which  the  Seraglio  is  built,. 
1 00 1  Afpers  per  day.     Thefe  Revenues  are  appropriated  to  keeping  up- 
the  Buildings,  paying  the  Salaries  of  the  Officers  of  the  Mofque,  pro- 
viding Food  for  the  Poor,  who  come  to  the  Gate  at  certain  hours,  main- 
taining the  Hofpitals  that  adjoin  thereto,  educating  and  breeding  up  of 
Scholars  in  the  Law  of  Mahomet,  relieving  indigent  Tradefmen  and  Arti- 
zans,  and  the  like :  the  reft  goes  into  the  Treafury  of  the  Mofque,  to 
anfvver  any  fudden  unforeseen  Call,  fuch  as  the  falling  of  Houfes,  Damages 
by  Fire,  &c.     This  Treafure,  as  well  as  that  of  the  other  Mofques,  is- 
kept  in  the  Caftle  of  the  Seven  Towers,  and  the  Grand  Signior  can't  in 
confcience  touch  it,  but  upon  urgent  occafions,  when  their  Religion  is- 
at  flake.     The  Villages,  whofe  Revenues  belong  to  the  Royal  Mofques, 
have  large  Privileges ;  their  Inhabitants  are  exempt  from  quartering  Sol- 
diers, and  from  being  opprefs'd  by  the  Bafhaws,  who  when  they  travel 
that  way,  turn  afide. 

IN  all  the  other  Towns  of  the  Empire,  each  Houfe  pays  annually  a 
JJ* or  Va'  Quit-Rent  to  thefe  Mofques.     The  Quit-Rents  belonging  to  St.  Sophia, 
arife  from  Smyrna,  Validea  from  Rodojlo,  Sultan  Bajazet  from  Adrianople  y 
the  Mofques  of  Adrianople  enjoy  the  Quit-Rents  of  Galata.     When  the 
Greeks,  Jews,  and  Armenians  die  without  Male  IfTue,   their  Houfes  de- 
volve to  the  Mofque,  befides  the  Quit-Rent  it  before  receiv'd  thereout ; 
but  among  the  Turks,  the  Brothers  and  Coufins  inherit  the  Houfe,  and 
pay  only  the  Quit-Rent  to  the  Mofque.     To  redeem  or  buy  out  thefe 
Quit-Rents,  it  is  permitted  to  purchafe  for  the  ufe  of  the  Mofque  any 
Shop  or  Shops,  or  any  fort  of  Effects,  which  may  be  an  Equivalent  for 
the  Quit-Rent. 

THE  other  Royal  Mofques  are  not  fo  confiderable  as  thofe  already 
mention'd  :  they  are  cali'd  by  their  Founders  Names,  Sultan  Bajazet,  Sal- 
tan Selim,  Sultan  Mahomet.  The  Mofque  of  Ejoup  is  not  counted  & 
Royal  Building,  tho  built  by  Mahomet  II.  who  caus'd  the  whole  City  to 
be  repair'd,  and  founded  many  Colleges.  This  Mofque  confifls  in  but 
one  Dome,  famous  for  nothing  but  the  Ceremony  of  crowning  the 
new  Sultan ;  the  Ceremony  is  not  long  \  they  have  nothing  to  do  with 

4:  Crowns 


Defcription  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  36$ 

Crowns  or  other  Royal  Ornaments.     The  Emperor  afcends  a  kind  of  Letter  XI. 

Roftrum  of  Marble,  and  the  Mufti  girds  a  Sabre  to  his  fide,  as  an  Em-  ,~/~v  v' 

blem  of  his  being  Lord  of  the  whole  Earth  ;  for  at  this  Court,  all  the 

other  Kings  are  call'd  Sultanons,  except  the  King  of  France,  to  whom 

they  give  the  name  of  Padifcha,  that  is,  Emperor,     The  Mofque  of  Ejoup 

is  at  the  Efflux  of  the  freih  Waters ;  this  lame  Ejoup  is  efteem'd  by  the 

Turks  as  a  great  Prophet,  as  well  as  Captain.     They  don't  however  deny 

he  was  worded  before  Constantinople,  and  that  he  was  kill'd  there  at  the 

head  of  an  Army  of  Saracens,  whom  he  commanded.     His  Sepulchre  is 

no  lefs  refbrted  to  than  thofe  of  the  Sultans  :  there  is  continual  praying 

at  it,  which  fort  of  praying  is  what  a  great  many  People  in  Turk)  get  a 

handfbme  Livelihood  by. 

FROM  Ejoup- 's  Mofque  we  went  to  fee  an  old  ruin'd  Edifice,  call'd 
the  Palace  of  Confiantine ;  but  it  has  nothing  confiderable  :  it  is  a  ruinous 
decay'd  thing,  about  400  paces  from  the  Walls  of  the  City  ;  there  are 
left  two  Columns,  that  bore  up  a  Balcony  over  the  Gate :  the  whole 
looks  like  fbme  Gallery  to  which  they  afcended  by  a  Marble  Stair-cafe, 
Ibme  of  the  Steps  yet  remaining ;  it  is  perhaps  the  refidue  of  fome  Houfe 
built  by  Confiantine  Porphjrogenetes,  for  the  Palace  of  Confiantine  the  Great 
was  in  the  firft  Region  of  the  Town,  where  now  the  Seraglio  ftands. 
Z^zimus  affures  us,  that  there  was  no  finer  in  all  Rome  :  Codinm  calls  it  Yam\d±  $  ™ 
the  Palace  of  the  Hippodrome.  ™m$(£ 

WE  afterwards  crofs'd  the  Quarter  of  Balat,  to  go  down  to  the  Port,  Hift-  llb*  '° 
which  is  one  of  the  Wonders  of  the  City.    The  Greek  Emperors  ufed 
heretofore  to  take  the  diverfion  of  Hunting  at  Balat  •  which  is  therefore 
call'd  in  vulgar  Greek  the  Park  or  the  '  Hunter.     Here  is  nothing  but  the  « Km^f, 
"  Patriarchal  Church,  that  can  engage  a  Stranger's  Attention,  and  that  *  n*Te«tp- 
more  for  its  Name  than  Beauty;  it  is  about  200  paces  from  the  Porr.^**1 
The  Greeks  inuft  not  dare  to  beflow  any  Coft  on  this  Church,  even  tho 
they  were  ever  fb  rich ;  for  the  Turks  would  not  fail  to  lay  hands  on 
whatever  Mony  mould  be  offer'd  to  be  apply'd  that  way. 

I  am,  &C. 

L  E  T- 


(3«) 


LETTER    XII. 

To  Monfeigneur  the  Count  de  Pontchartrain, 
Secretary  of  State,  Sec. 

My  Lord, 
Dtfrripthn  of  ||||||||||  H  E  Port  of  Conjl antinople  can  never  be  too  much  admired. 
v\*coMrimSd.      'hr  iP  ^e  went  rounc^  ic  in  a  ^oat'  in  very  ferene  Weather :  thefe 


Boats  are  fmall  Gondolas,  exceeding  light,  and  marvelloufly 
neat  and  pretty ;  they  are  in  fuch  numbers,  they  cover  the 
whole  Haven,  especially  the  PafTage  to  Galata.  The  Antients  never  put 
a  better  thing  into  the  Oracle's  mouth,  than  when  they  made  him  give 
this  Anfwer  to  Ibme  who  confulted  him  about  building  a  Town  here- 
abouts :  Let  it  be,  faid  the  Oracle,  over  againtf  the  Country  of  blind,  Men. 
For  the  Port  of  Chalcedony  which  is  on  the  oppofite  Shore,  is  lb  odd  a 
place,  that  they  may  well  be  call'd  blind,  that  firft  pitch'd  on  it.  The 
Haven  of  Confiantincple  is  a  Bafbn  feven  or  eight  miles  in  circuit  towards 
the  City,  and  as  much  on  the  Suburbs  fide :  its  Entrance,  about  600 
.  pl0m0nt0-  paces  broad,  begins  at  the  Point  of  the  Seraglio,  or  the  Cape  of  St  De- 
rium  chryfo-   metr-ms  fituated  in  the  South ;  it  is  the '  Cape  of  Bofphorus,  where  flood 

tens.  Pun.  \  A  ■"■  ' 

Hifl.  Nat.  nb.  the  antient  Town  of  Byzantium.  Thence  to  the  Weft,  the  Port  extends 
Bofphorium     like  a '  crooked  Horn,  which  may  more  juftly  be  compared  to  that  of 

^oii^cap^.  an  ^x  r^an  a  Sta§>  as  StrAbo  nas  ir>  f°r  r^e  Coaft  has  no  in-and-out  Turn- 
'  K'nhmi  t5  ings  like  Divifions :  it  is  true,  M.  Gilles  5  obferves,  there  have  been  many 
K^f«  VbJ-*  Alterations  that  have  deftroy'd  its  antient  Form.  This  Port  opens  to  the 
jj**^  Eaft,  and  faces  Scutari ;  Galata  and  Cajfun-Pacha  are  to  the  North  :  laftly 
lib.  7.  it  terminates  to  the  North-North-Weft,  where  the  River  Lye  us  empties 

'  De  Bofph.  J  r 

Thrac.  Ll.C.J.  it 


Defcription  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  367 

it  felf.     This  River  is  made  up  of  two  Streams ;  the  biggeft,  on  which  Lett.  XII. 
is  the  '  Paper-Mill,  comes  from  Belgrade,   the  *  other  flows  from  the  'SJCm^- 
North-Well:.    The  Lycm  is  not  every  where  navigable,  and  therefore  f^ZmMf* 
there  are  Stakes  to  point  out  the  fureft  places.     The  Stream  that  comes  eaWdh^fffa. 
from  the  North- Weft  is  not  practicable  for  Boats  farther  than  the  Village  ^t™ 
of  Hali-bei-cui.     The  other  is  deep  enough,  for  about  four  miles  :  to  go 
from  Vera  to  Adrian ople,  you  crofs  thefe  two  Streams  over  Bridges.    s  Apol- *  s«¥0i-?o£ 
loniits  Thyan&w  perform'd  a  world  of  Magick  Ceremonies  on  thefe  Wa- 
ters :  they  are  of  wondrous  ufe  to  cleanfe  the  Haven,  for  defcending  from 
the  North- Weft,  they  wafh  all  the  Coaft  of  Cajfun-Pacha  and  Galata, 
while  part  of  the  Waters  of  the  Canal  of  the  Black  Sea,  which  defcend 
from  the  North  like  a  Torrent,  as  *  Dion  Cajfim  obferves,  dafh  violently 4  Apud  xipfea. 
againft  the  Cape  of  the  Bofphorus,  and  recoil  to  the  right  towards  the 
Weft :  by  this  motion  they  fweep  away  the  Mud  that  might  gather  about 
Conftantinople,  and  by  a  piece  of  natural  Mechanifm  ihove  it  on  by  de- 
grees as  far  as  the  frefli  Waters.     Thefe  freih  Waters  help  to  preferve  the 
Shipping,  for  Experience  fhews  that  they  are  lefs  iubjecl:  to  be  worm- 
eaten  in  fiich  Ports  where  there's  frefli  Water,  than  where  there's  fait  : 
the  Fifli  too  take  greater  delight  in  fuch  Waters,  and  are  better  tailed. 
The  Port  of  Conftantinople  abounds  with  Tunny-fifh,  call'd  Pelamides  by  lantw  pam«, 
the  Antients:  we  fee  them  frequently  reprefented  on  the  Medals  of  By-  T^ZTmZx- 
zantium.  with  the  Heads  of  the  Emperors  Caligula,  Claudiu-s,  Caracalla, re  aut"mm> 

7  tr  .  comitantur. 

Geta,  Gordianm,  Pias,  Gallien,   and  the  Emprefies  Sabina,  Lucillia,  Crif-  Limofi  vera  i 
Una,  'Julia  Mcefa,  and  Julia  Mamcea.     Pliny  fays,  that  under  the  water  maprant"!©. 
towards  Cbalcedon,  there  were  white  Rocks  that  feared  the  Tunnies,  and  ca">  &  c^" 
forced  'em  into  the  Port  of  Byzantium  :  Dolphins  too  fbmetimes  appear  feie  tewpm; 
there  in  fuch  numbers,  the  Port  fvvarms  with  'em ;  they  are  often  fifh'd  mft.Nat,  uL 
for,  their  Teeth  are  like  a  !  Saw  :  but  Pliny  was  miftaken  in  the  Story  of9'  ("p'  *5* 

7  ;         IT2AN* 

the  white  Rock  above-mention'd,  for  the  Tunny-filh  go  as  far  as  Choi-  t  i  a  n. 
cedon.  where  there  are  caught  great  numbers  of  them.  £"ft-  N"-  „ 

PROCOPIVS,  in  commendation  of  the  Port  of  Conftantinople,  fays  »Prift«s. 
it  is  ^Thorough-Port ;  that  is,  you  may  anchor  in  any  part  of  it:  and  Aw  j1  &j* 
'tis  juftly  obferv'd  by  him,  that  the  Ships  there  have  their  Prow  on  land  r>71$i?fli. 
while  the  Poop  is  in  the  water j  as  if  thefe  two  Elements  contended  llb' '   *"'1p- 5* 
which  fhould  be  moft  ferviceable  to  the  City.     In  fhallowcr  places,  you 


363 


A  Vo vaoe  into  the  Levant. 


Xipbilin. 

.Zonar.  Hill 
Jib.  12. 


go  upon  a  Plank  into  the  biggeft  Ships ;  fo  there's  no  occafion  for  a  Cha- 
loupe  to  lade  or  unlade  'em.  Goltzius  makes  relation  of  a  Medal  of 
Bjzas  Founder  of  Byzantium,  on  the  Reverfe  whereof  is  a  Ship's  Prow. 
In  the  King's  Cabinet  there  are  two  Medals  in  the  name  of  the  By- 
z,aritines,  on  one  is  reprefented  a  Ship  hoifting  fail,  on  the  other  a  hu- 
man Figure  with  a  Pike  in  its  hand,  and  feeming  to  Hand  Centry  on 
the  Prow  of  the  Ship.  By  all  which  it  is  plain  the  Byzantines  loved  the 
Sea,  and  knew  how  to  improve  the  advantages  of  their  Harbour ;  I 
wonder  they  omitted  to  grave  on  their  Medals  thole  Gallies  with  two 
Helms,  one  at  the  Head,  the  other  at  the  Stern :  there  ufed  to  be  a 
Abridgment  of  Steerfman  at  each,  according  to  Xiphilin's  Defcription.  The  Gallies  of 
impevoi &-  the  Byzantines,  at  the  time  when  that  Emperor  befieged  their  City,  went 
forwards  and  backwards  in  a  direct  line  by  means  of  thefe  two  Pieces : 
and  therefore  the  ufe  of  two  Helms  in  one  Gaily,  is  no  new  Invention. 
The  Defcription  of  Bjzantium,  and  of  that  famous  Siege,  is  one  of  the 
fineit.  things  in  Antiquity.  The  Byzantines  fignaliz'd  themfelves  by  Land 
and  Sea  :  their  Divers  would  not  only  go  and  cut  the  Enemy's  Ships  from 
their  Anchors,  but  would  tye  Ropes  to  'em  under  water,  and  fb  drag  'em 
wherever  they  would ;  in  fuch  manner,  that  the  Ships  ieem'd  to  come  of 
their  own  accord,  and  furrender  themfelves.  They  employ'd  the  Beams 
of  their  Houfes  to  build  Ships  with,  and  the  Hair  of  their  Wives  Heads 
ro  make  Ropes  and  Cordage  :  they  would  dart  into  the  Enemy's  Tren- 
ches the  Statues  that  adorn'd  their  Town,  and  after  they  had  confumed 
all  their  Leather,  would  feed  upon  each  other. 

WOULD  the  Turks  bend  their  thoughts  to  Navigation,  they  might 
make  themfelves  formidable  that  way  j  for  they  have  the  bell  Harbours 
of  any  in  the  Mediterranean  :  they  would  be  mailers  of  all  the  Trade  to 
the  Eaft,  by  favour  of  their  Ports  in  the  Red  Sea,  which  would  open  'em 
a  door  to  the  Eajl-Indiest  China,  Japan  ;  Places  which  the  Chriftians 
can't  reach  without  doubling  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  But  the  Turks  hug 
themfelves  at  home,  pleas'd  to  fee  all  the  Nations  of  the  World  come 
to  them. 

NOTHING  but  the  Eafl:  Wind  can  difturb  the  Port  of  Con  ft  antinomic, 
it  being  totally  expos'd    thereto  :    whenever  it  blows  hard    from  tha: 
Quarter,  cfpccially  if  it  be  in  the  night,  it  occafions  a  frightful  hurly- 
burly  ; 


I 
Defcription  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  369 

burly  ;  for  the  Seamen  make  fuch  a  bawling,  and  the  Dogs  fiich  a  barking,  Lett.  XII. 
that  one  would  think  the  Town  was  going  to  be  fwallow'd  up,  if  onew>~v  >w 
were  not  appriz'd  of  the  caufe  of  it. 

THE  Seradio  it  felf  is  not  free  from  this  Alarm :  for  that  Palace  is Padifcha-Serai, 

0  Palace  of  the 

jutl  at  the  mouth  of  the  Port,  and  flands  on  the  very  fpot  of  the  old  Bj- 
zantiurn,  on  the  Point  of  the  Peninfula  of  Thrace,  exactly  where  the  Bof-  p*™J?tt$%A 
phorus  is.     The  Seraglio  (the  Workmanlhip  of  Mahomet  II.)  is  near  three  p^'^a  an 
miles  about :  it  is  a  kind  of  Triangle,  whole  fide  next  the  City  is  the  uund.  H.'ft. 
biggeft ;  that  next  the  Bofpboras  is  at  the  Eaft,  and  the  other,  that  forms  ^"falm.  Pa3- 
the  Entrance  of  the  Port,  is  in  the  North.     The  Apartments  are  on  the 
top  of  the  Hill,  and  the  Gardens  below,   ftretching  to  the  Sea  :  the  Walls 
of  the  City,  flank'd  with  their  Towers,  joining  themfelves  to  the  '  Point  '  Serai-bomnu, 
of  St.  Demetrius,  make  the  Circumference  of  this  Palace  towards  the  Sea.  ^esmuiu 
As  great  as    the  Compafs  of  it  is,  the  Outfide  of  the  Palace  has  no-  A,*£*  X?1""" 
thing  curious  to  boaft  of,  and  if  one  may  judge  of  the  Beauty  of  its  ^    ' 
Gardens  by  the  Cyprefs-Trees  which  are  difcernable  in  'em,  they  don't 
much  exceed  thofe  of  private  Men.     That  the  Inhabitants  of  Galata,  and 
other  Places  in  that  Neighbourhood,  may  not  fee  the  Sultanas  walking  in 
thefe  Gardens,  they  are  planted  with  Trees  that  are  always  green. 

T  H  O  I  faw  only  the  Outfide  of  the  Seraglio,  I  am  perfuaded  that  its 
Infide  can  mew  nothing  of  what  we  call  flately  and  noble ;  becaufe  the 
Turks  have  hardly  any  Notion  of  Magnificence,  and  follow  no  one  Rule 
of  good  Architecture :  if  they  have  made  fine  Mofques,  it  is  becaufe  they 
had  a  fine  Model  before  their  eyes,  the  Church  of  St.  Sophia  ;  a  Model 
which  indeed  is  .not  to  be  follow'd  in  the  Erection  of  Palaces.  By  the 
Turkijb  Pavilions  (a  larger  fort  of  Building)  a  Man  may  eafily  perceive 
he  is  moving  from  Italy,  and  approaching  towards  Perfta,  nay  China  it  felf. 

THE  Apartments  of  the  Seraglio  have  been  made  at  different  times, 
and  according  to  the  Capricioufheis  of  the  Princes  and  Sultanefles :  thus 
is  this  famed  Palace  a  heap  of  Houfes  cluttering  together  without  any 
manner  of  Order ;  no  doubt  they  are  fpacious,  commodious,  richly  fur- 
niih'd.  Their  beft  Ornaments  are  not  Pictures,  nor  Statues  ;  but  Paint- 
ings  after  the  Turkijh  manner,  inlaid  with  Gold  and  Azure,  diverfify'd 
with  Flowers,  Landskips,  Tail-pieces,  (fuch  as  the  Printers  adorn  the 
End  of  a  Book  or  Chapter  with)  and  Compartments  like  Labels  contain- 
Vol.  I.  B  b  b  ing 


los  Leones. 


cqo  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

ing  Arabian  Sentences,  the  fame  as  in  the  private  Honfes  of  Conjlantinonle  .-■ 
Marble  Bafons,  Bagnios,  fponting  Fountains,  are  the  delight  of  the  Orien- 
tals, who  place  them  over  the  firft  Floor,  without  fear  of  over-preflW 
the  Cieling.  This  too  was  the  Tafte  of  the  Saracens  and  Moors,  as  ap- 
pears by  their  antient  Palaces,  efpecially  that  of  Alhambra  at  Granada  in 
Spain,  where  they  ftill  fhew,  as  a  Prodigy  of  Architecture,  the  Pave- 
ei  Qiiato  de  ment  of  the  Lions  Quarter,  made  of  Blocks  of  Marble  bigger  than  the 
Tombftones  in  our  Churches. 

I F  there's  any  thing  curious  in  the  Seraglio,  'tis  what  the  EmbaiTadors 
of  foreign  Princes  have  brought  thither,  fuch  as  French  and  Venice  Glafs, 
Perfian  Carpets,  Oriental  Vafes.  'Tis  faid  moft  of  the  Pavilions  are 
fupported  by  Arches,  under  which  are  lodg'd  the  Officers  that  ferve  the 
Sultanas  :  thefe  Ladies  dwell  over-head,  in  Apartments  commonly  termi- 
nated by  a  Dome  cover'd  with  Lead,  or  by  Spires  with  gilded  Crefcents  ; 
the  Balconies,  the  Galleries,  the  Cabinets,  the  Belvederes,  are  the  moft 
agreeable  Places  of  thefe  Apartments.  In  fhort,  notwithstanding  what 
has  been  faid,  take  it  all  together,  it  is  anfwerable  to  the  Greatnefs  of  its 
Mafter  ;  but  to  make  a  fine  Edifice  of  it,  it  muft  be  pull'd  down,  and  the 
Materials  employ'd  to  build  another,  on  a  new  Model. 

THE  principal  Entrance  of  the  Seraglio  is  a  huge  Pavilion,  with 
eight  Openings  over  the  Gate,  (or  Porte.)  This  Porte,  from  whence  the 
Ottoman  Empire  took  its  name,  is  very  high,  fimple,  femicircular  in  its 
Arch,  with  an  Arabian  Infcription  beneath  the  Bend  of  the  Arch,  and 
two  Niches,  one  on  each  fide,  in  the  Wall.  It  looks  rather  like  a  Guard- 
houfe,  than  the  Entrance  to  a  Palace  of  one  of  the  greateft  Princes  of 
the  World  ;  and  yet  it  was  Mahomet  II.  built  it :  fifty  Capigis  or  Porters 
keep  this  Gate;  but  they  have  generally  no  Weapon  but  a  Wand  or 
white  Rod.  At  firft  you  enter  into  a  large  Court-yard,  not  near  fo  broad 
as  long ;  on  the  right  are  Infirmaries  for  the  Sick,  on  the  left  Lodges  for 

the  Azancoglans,  that  is,  Perfons  employ'd  in  the  moft  fordid  Offices  of 

the  Seraglio  :  here  the  Wood  is  kept,  that  ferves  for  Fuel  to  the  Palace ; 

there  is  every  year  confumed  40000  Cart-load,  each  Load  as  much  as  two 

Buffaloes  can  well  draw. 

ANY  body  may  enter  the  firft  Court  of  the  Seraglio  ;  here  the  Do- 

roefticks  and  Slaves  of  the  Baihaws  and  Agas  wait  for  their  Mafters  re- 
turning, 


Defer iption  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  qji 

turning,  and  look  after  their  Horfcs ;  but  every  thing  is  fo  dill,  the  Mo-  Lett.  XII. 
tion  of  a  Fly  might  be  heard,  in  a  manner :  and  if  any  one  mould  pre- 
sume to  raiie  his  Voice  ever  lb  little,  or  lhew  the  lead  want  of  Relpecl: 
*©  the  Manfion-place  of  their  Emperor,  he  would  inftantly  have  the 
Baftinado  by  the  Officers  that  go  the  rounds ;  nay,  the  very  Horles  leem 
to  know  where  they  are,  and  no  doubt  they  are  taught  to  tread  ibfter 
here  than  in  the  Streets. 

THE  Infirmaries  are  for  the  Sick  that  belong  to  theHoufe;  they  are 
carry'd  thither  in  little  clofe  Carts  drawn  by  two  Men.  When  the  Court 
is  at  Conjlantinoph,  the  chief  Phyfician  and  Chirurgeon  vifit  this  place 
every  day,  and  'tis  allured  they  take  great  care  of  the  Sick  :  'tis  even 
faid,  that  many  who  are  in  this  place  are  well  enough,  only  they  get 
thither  to  refrelli  themlelves,  and  drink  their  Skin-full  of  Wine  :  the  life 
of  this  Liquor,  tho  feverely  forbid  ellewhere,  is  tolerated  in  the  Infirma- 
ries, provided  the  Eunuch  at  the  Door  does  not  catch  thofe  that  bring 
it ;  in  which  cafe,  the  Wine  is  fpiit  on  the  ground,  and  the  Bearers  fen- 
tenced  to  receive  2  or  3  00  Baftinadoes. 

FROM  the  firft  Court,  you  go  on  to  the  fecond,  the  Entrance  where- 
of is  alfb  kept  by  fifty  Capigis.  This  Court  is  fquare,  about  joo  paces 
diameter,  but  much  handlbmcr  than  the  firft :  the  Path-ways  are  paved, 
and  the  Alleys  well  kept;  the  reft  confifts  of  very  pretty  Turf,  whole 
Verdure  is  only  interrupted  by  Fountains  which  help  to  prelerve  its  Frelh- 
nefs.  The  Grand  Signior's  Treafury  and  the  little  Stable  are  on  the 
left :  here  they  ihew  a  Fountain,  where  formerly  they  ufed  to  cut  off  the 
Heads  of  Baihaws  condemn'd  to  die.  The  Offices  and  Kitchens  are  on 
the  right,  embelifh'd  with  Domes,  but  without  Chimneys :  they  kindle  a 
Fire  in  the  middle,  and  the  Smoke  goes  out  through  the  holes  made  in 
the  Domes.  The  firft  of  thefe  Kitchens  is  for  the  Grand  Signior,  the 
fecond  for  the  chief  Sultanefs,  the  third  for  the  other  Sultanas,  the  fourth 
for  the  Capi-Aga  or  Commandant  of  the  Gates;  in  the  fifth  they  drels 
the  Meat  for  the  Minifters  of  the  Divan  ;  the  fixth  belongs  to  the  Grand 
Signior's  Pages,  call'd  the  Ichoglans ;  the  feventh  to  the  Officers  of  the 
Seraglio  ;  the  eighth  is  for  the  Women  and  Maid-Servants ;  the  ninth  for 
all  fuch  as  are  obliged  to  attend  the  Court  of  the  Divan  on  days  of  Scf- 
fion.     They  don't  provide  much  Wild-Fowl,  but  befides  40000  Beeves 

Bbb  2  fpent 


37 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

fpent  yearly  there,  the  Purveyors  are  to  furnifli  daily  200  Muttons,  100 
Lambs  or  Goats  according  to  the  Seafon,  10  Veals,  200  Hens,  200  pair 
of  Pullets,    ioo  pair  of  Pidgeons,    50  Green-Geefe  :    Victuals  enough, 
you'll  fay.  * 

ALL  round  the  Court,  runs  a   low  Gallery  cover'd  with  Lead,  and 
fupported  by  Columns  of  Marble  :  none  but  the  Grand  Signior  himfelf 
enters  this  Court  on  horleback,  and  therefore  the  little  Stable  is  in  this 
place,  but  there's  not  room  for  above  thirty  Horfes  :   over-head  they 
keep  the  Harnefs,  than  which  nothing  can  be  richer  in  Jewels  and  Em- 
broidery. The  great  Stable,  wherein  there  are  about  a  thoufand  Horfes  for 
the  Officers  of  the  Grand  Signior,  is  toward  the  Sea  upon  the  Bofphoms. 
Such  days  as  the  foreign  Embaffadors  are  admitted  to  Audience,  the  Ja- 
nizaries in  very  handfbme  Apparel  range  themfelves  on  the  right  beneath 
the  Gallery.     The  Hall  where  the  Divan  is  held,  that  is,  Juftice-Hall,  is 
on  the  left,  at  the  further  end  of  this  Court :  on  the  right  is  a  Door  which 
lets  into  the  infide  of  the  Seraglio ;  none  pafs  through,  but  fuch  as  are 
fent  for.     The  Hall  of  the  Divan  is  large,  but  low,  cover'd  with  Lead, 
wainfcotted  and  gilt  after  the  Moorifo  manner,  plain  enough.    On  the 
Eftrade  is  fpread  but  one  Carpet  for  the  Officers  to  fit  on :  here  the  Grand 
Vifier,  affifted  by  his  Couniellors,  determines  all  Caufes  civil  and  crimi- 
nal, without  Appeal ;  the  Caimacan  officiates  for  him  in  his  abfence,  and 
the  Embafladors  are  here  entertain'd  the  day  of  their  Audience.     Thus 
far  may  Strangers  go  in  the  Seraglio :  a  Man's  Curiofity  might  coft  him 
dear,  fhould  he  proceed  further. 

THE  Outfide  of  this  Palace  towards  the  Port  has  nothing  worth  no- 
tice, but  the  Kiofc  or  Pavilion  right  againft  GaUta  :  it  is  fupported  by  a 
dozen  Pillars  of  Marble ;  it  is  wainfcotted,  richly  furnifh'd,  and  painted 
after  the  Per  fun  manner.     The  Grand  Signior  comes  thither  fbmetimes  to 
divert  himfelf  with  viewing  what  pailes  in  the  Port,  or  to  take  the  plea- 
lure  of  the  Water  when  he  has  a  mind  to't.     The  Pavilion  which  is  to- 
ward the  Bqfphorm,  is  higher  than  that  of  the  Port,  and  built  on  Arches 
which  fuppoit  three  Salons  terminated  by  gilded  Domes..    The  Prince 
comes  thither  to  (port  with  his  Women  and  Mutes  :  all   thefe  Keys 
are  cover'd  with  Artillery,  without  Carriages ;  molt  of  the.  Cannon  are 
planted  level  with  the  Water :  the  largeft  Piece  is  that  which,  they  fay, 

forc'd; 


rDefrription  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  373 

forc'd  Babylon  to  furrcndcr  to  Sultan  Mcurat,  and  by  way  pf  diflinclion  Lett.  XII. 

has  an  Apartment  to  it  ielf.     This  Artillery  is  what  the  Mahometans  re-  ^^  v  ^ 

joicc  to  hear,  for  when  they  are  fired,  'tis  to  notify  that  Lent  is  at  an  Ramraan  w 

'  J  J  Ramazan. 

end  ;  they  arc  likewife  fired  on  publick  Rejoicing-Days. 

WHEN  the  Grand  Signior  is  atConJlantinople,  he  fometimes  amufes 
himfelf  with  ubferving  from  this  Kiofc  the  ridiculous  Ceremonies  of  the 
Greeks  on  the  Transfiguration-Day,  at  a '  Fountain  hard  by.  They  not  •  ApWf<*>f£* 
only  fancy  this  Water  will  cure  a  Fever,  but  all  other  Diftempers  prefent  Ho  y 
and  to  come.  And  therefore  they  don't  content  themlelves  with  carrying 
thither  their  Sick,  to  drink  of  the  Water,  but  they  bury  'em  in  the  Sand 
up  to  the  Chin,  and  then  take  'cm  out  again  the  moment  after  :  fuch  as 
are  well,  waih  in  it,  and  drink  of  it  till  it  comes  out  as  clear  as  it  went 
in.  All  Greece  is  full  of  fuch  Fountains,  but  they  are  not  mineral ;  their 
whole  Reputation  is  owing  to  the  Peoples  Credulity.  There's  a  large 
Window  near  the  Source,  out  of  which  are  thrown  in  the  night  fuch 
as  have  been  ftranglcd  in  the  Seraglio ;  and  for  every  Perfbn  fb  ferv'd, 
there  is  a  Cannon  difcharg'd.  The  Grand  Signior's  Barge-Houfes  are 
near  thefe  Kiofcs,  and  are  under  the  care  of  the  Boftangi-Bachi :  thefe 
Barges  or  Gallies,  are  made  ufe  of  when  the  Grand  Signior  goes  to  the 
Seraglio  from  Scutari...  They  are  fteer'd  by  the  Boftangi-Bachi  when 
the  Grand  Signior  is  on  board  ;.  are  very  light  and  very  neat :  their  Oars 
are  painted  and  gilded.  Fanari-Kjofc  is  a  Pavilion  that  Socman  II.  built 
at  the  foot  of  the  Light-houfe  on  the  Cape  of  Cbalcedon :  'tis  faid  this 
Pavilion  is  exceeding  fine,  and  that  its  Gardens  ate  better  contrived  than 
thofe  of  the  Seraglio. 

AFTER  viewing  the  Greeks  Fountain,  we  enter'd  the  Port,  and  made 
towards  the  Seraglio  of  Looking-Glaffes :  it  is  of  no  large  compafs  j  behind 
its  Walls  is  the  place  where  the  Turks  exercife  themfelves  in  ihooting  with  Ocmeidan,. 
the  Bow.  Near  it  is  a  kind  of  Gallery,  where  the  Turks  go  in  Procef- 
fion,  to  pray  for  good  Succels  in  an  approaching  Battel ;  and  fometimes 
to  deprecate  the  Plague,  when  it  is  very  raging,  that  is,  when  it  carries  off 
1000  or  1200  in  a  day. 

WHILE  we  were  ranging  about  the  Port,  we  were  fhewn  fbrne 
Stakes  or  Foils  Handing  in  the  Water,  to  notify  how  far  the  great  Ships 
mi^ht  find  Anchorage.    From  hence,  we  proceeded  to  the.  Coaft  of  Cafiutt- 

■k  Puhoj. 


374  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

Pachit,  where  is  the  Arfenal  call'd  Ters-hana,  from  the  Perfian  word  Ttrs 
Ships,  and  Nana  a  Place  to  build  in.  Here  are  built  the  Grand  Signior's 
Ships;  we  counted  28  fine  ones,  from  60  to  100  Guns.  There  are  120 
Houfes  arch'd  over  head  for  keeping  the  Galleys :  the  Store-houfes  and 
Work-houfes  are  under  very  good  OeconOmy  ;  all  here  is  lubjecl  to  the 
Captain-Balhaw.  The  chief  Sea-Officers  are  lodg'd  here ;  and  but  few 
Chriftians  are  leen,  unlefs  it  be  the  Slaves  who  are  in  the  Bagno,  that  is 
in  one  of  the  lidded  Prifons  in  the  world.  It  has  three  Chappels,  one  for 
fuch  Chriftians  as  are  of  the  Greek  Perfuafion,  and  two  for  thole  of  the 
Latin ;  one  of  the  latter  belongs  to  the  King  of  France,  the  other  to  the 
Venetians,  Italians,  Germans,  and  Poles  :  the  Miffionaries  confefs  there, 
fay  Mais,  adminifter  the  Sacraments,  make  Exhortations  in  full  liberty, 
paying  a  final!  Acknowledgment  to  the  Commandant  of  the  Bagno; 
whofe  Place  is  in  the  Captain  Bafhaw's  Gift,  who  is  almoft  abfolute  in  his 
Office,  accountable  to  none  but  the  Grand  Signior,  for  which  reafbn  'tis 
reckon'd  one  of  the  bell  Polls  in  the  Empire. 

FROM  the  Suburb  call'd  Cajfun-Pacha,  you  croft  fome  Burying- 
sW<  3  ew-  places  to  go  to  Galata,  which  is  the  handfomeil  Suburb  of  the  whole 
foTeM  A'-  City,  and  formerly  made  its  thirteenth  Region.  It  is  built  over  againll 
!£°wS'  the  Seraglio,  in  the  Fig-Tree  Quarter.  '  Jupnian  repair'd  this  Suburb, 
(cm>*.  Socrat.  and  gave  it  the  name  of  Jufliniana :  'tis  not  known  why  it  was  call'd  Ga- 

1    1 1     c.  30. 

2»<s*}.Hefych.  ^Atx  f°me  time  after  that  Emperor's  death,  unlefs  with  Tz.etz.es  you'll  have 
Miles.  it  derived  from  the  G dates  or  Gauls,  who  crofs'd  the  Port  about  this 

de  .tdif.  juft.'  place.  But  Codings  Thought  is  more  probable :  he  makes  it  come  from 
*yS<aw  <&"  a  Gaul  or  Galate,  as  the  Greeks  pronounce  it,  who  fettled  himfelf  in  this 
tuwok  n  To.-  Suburb,  call  d  by  the  Greeks  Galatou,  and  fince  Galata.  The  Greeks  of 
iw'tw.  ""  Constantinople  have  a  kind  of  Tradition,  that  Galata  comes  from  Gda 
Theophan.  w  hich  in  their  Tongue  signifies  Milk  :  fo  this  part  of  the  Town  was 
fuohixvw-  named  the  Suburb  of  Milk,  becaufe  the  Milk- Women  lived  there. 
nfeT'ntM-  GALATA  forms  the  Entrance  of  the  Port  Northerly,  and  here  it  was 
linri  »-r«t-  they  laid  the  Chain  that  barricado'd  it :  Xipbiltn  has  not  forgot  this  Chain 
PadJym*  Du*  in  the  defcription  he  has  given,  after  Dion  Qaflim,  of  the  Siege  of  Byzan- 
tas.  nz.  tuim  ^y  tjie  j;mperor  Seve'rtfs.  Leo  lfaurittt,  according  to  Tbeopbanes, 
took  away  this  Chain,  when  the  Saracens  came  before  the  Place  to  be- 
fiegc  it,  which  made  'em  give  over  their  Defign ;  for  they  were  afraid  left 

-I-  the 


Defer iption  of  the  City  of  Conitantinople.  275 

the  Chain,  after  they  were  enter'd  the  Port,  mould  be  laid  again,  and  Lett.  XII 
ihut'em  in.     '  Michael  the  Stammerer,  on  the  contrary,  made  uie  of  it  'z-iwr.  ^^ 
to  hinder  Thomas  from  coming  in.     '  Conftantiae  Paleolcgus,  the  laft  Greek  'Chalevcond. 
Emperor,  opposM   this  Chain  to   the  Fleet  of  Mahomet  II.  nor  did  that 
mighty  Conqueror,  haughty  as  he  was,  dare  fo  much  as  to  attempt  to 
cut  or  force  it  :  he  perform'd  however  fomething  more  extraordinary,  for 
by  his  orders  were  dragg'd  by  human  Strength  leventy  Ships,  befides  Gal-  Hi,K  iuxta  Ga* 
lies,  up  the  Hill  on  the  Coaft  of  Pera  ;  where  after  he  had  rigg'd  and  eoiiem  quem- 
inann'd 'em,  he  launch'd 'em  into  the  Port,  fill'd  with  Artillery.  milem  tranfi*" 

GAL  AT  A  is  defended  by  pretty  good  Walls,  flank'd  with  old  Towers :  Portari  L  vel 

J    l  J   a  >  '  lx  naves  in 

but  thefe  Walls  have  been  beaten  down  and  built  again  at  different  times.  Lif«°  cui-avir, 
Michael  Paleologus  having  mafter'd  Confiantinople   through  the  Valour  pf  utfi  in  fcari  * 
Strategopule,    or   the  little  General,    who    obliged  Baldwin  II.    the    laftj^8!*^" 
French  Emperor,  to  retire  ;  gave  this  Place  to  the  Genoefe,  with  whom  he  H;/]-  Mujfulm. 
had  made  an  Alliance  :  this  was  after  he  had  razed  its  Walls,  according  to 
%Pachymerus  and4  Gregoras.     The  Emperor  rather  choie  to  rid  himfelf  of  Padiym. !ib. 
fuch  cunning  Blades  as  the  Genoefe,  and  coop  'em  up  in  this  Quarter,  ♦  Gregor.  lV 
than  leave 'em  in  Conftantitwple,  from  whence  they  might  peradventure      12?I- 
have  expell'd  him  himfelf.     '  The  Donation  was  made  on  the  following  c.  3! ]  )m' 
Terms :  1 .  When  their  Podejlat  mould  arrive  there,  he  was  by  way  of  ^acuz-  L  u 
Homage  to  come  and  kneel  to  the  Emperor  at  the  Door,  and  in  the  Cod'n« 
middle  of  the  Audience-Chamber,  before  he  prefumed   to   kiis  his  Feet 
and  Hands.     2.  The  Genoeje  Lords  mould  do  the  fame,  whenever  they 
came  to  pay  their  court  to  him.     j.  The  fame  Honours  to  the  Emperor 
mould  be  paid  by  the  Genoeje  Ships,  as  were  accuftom'd  to  be  done  by 
thofe  of  the  Grecians  when  they  enter'd  the  Port.    The  '  Genoefe,  notwith-  *  Gregor,  L5, 
Handing  thefe  advantageous  Conditions,  were  not  long  e'er  they  quarrel'd 
with  the  new  Emperor  ;  the 7  Venetians  themfelves  attack'd  'em  finartly  1  idem,  lib.  & 
under  Andronicus  the  Old,  who  fucceeded  Michael :  all  this  obliged  them  ^  \u    ... 

'  o  pachym.  lib. 9. 

to  fortify  themfelves  with  good  Ditches,  and  build  Country- Houfes,  like  caP*5- 
fo  many  little  Redoubts  ;  but  they  had  the  vexation  to  fee  'em  pull'd 
down  by  order  of8  Andronicus  the  Younger,  from  whom  they  had  ra-  '  GregorJ.it. 
vilh'd  the  Ifle  of  Metelin,  which  put  'em  upon  thefe  Meafures  of  making 
head  againft  the  Emperors.    In  fhort,  during  the  Troubles  of  the  Em- 
pire, they  fo  well  fortify'd  Galata  under 9  John  Paleologus  and  Cantacuzenus, '  Cawacuz.' 

,         lib,  4.  «p.  Bio 


qj6  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

that  it  was  look'd  upon  as   a  Citadel  dangerous  to  Conflantinople  it  {elf. 

The  Turks  having  attacked  Galata,  obliged  the  Greeks  and  Tartars  too 
i4<n.  28june.  to  fheer  off';  but  at  laft  the  Genoefe  were  overpower'd,  and  their  Podejtat 
lib.  8.  deliver'd  up  the  Keys  to  Mahomet  II.  the  fame  day  that  Constantinople  was 

J2ucas'caP-39' taken. 
Phianz.  lib.  3.      THERE  are  flill  to  be  feen  on  the  Tower  of  Galata  fome  Coats  of 

cap.  1  'i. 

Arms,  and  Infer iptions  relating  to  fome  of  that  Nation :  thefe  forts  of 
Monuments  moulder  away  of  themfetves,  the  Turks  never  pull  'em  down 
unlefs  they  want  Materials  for  building  Mofques,  Bazars,  or  Bagnios,  in 
which  cafe  nothing  can  efcape  'em.  Galata  is  divided  into  three  Quar- 
ters, from  Caffun-Pacha  as  far  as  to  Topana  .«  the  Walls  and  Towers  that 
feparate  thefe  Quarters,  are  flill  in  being.  The  Quarter  of  Hafap-Capi 
begins  about  Caffun-Pacha,  and  ends  at  the  Mofque  of  the  Arabs,  where 
terminates  the  Partition-Wall  that  runs  from  the  Tower  of  Galata  to- 
wards the  South-Wefl :  thence  as  far  as  the  Cuftom-houfe  is  that  Quarter 
call'd  Galata  of  the  Cufloms,  and  the  Partition- Wall  reaches  to  the  great 
Tower  of  Galata.    Cara-cui  is  the  third  Quarter,  and  ends  at  Topana. 

THE  Mofque  of  the  Arabs  was  a  Church  of  the  Dominicans,  as  an- 
tient  as  the  time  of  St.  Hyacinth,  who  procured  it  to  be  built,  as  like- 
wife  another  Church  at  Conflantinople.  The  Mofque  of  the  Arabs  was 
taken  from  the  Dominicans,  about  a  hundred  Years  ago,  as  a  Forfeiture, 
and  apply'd  to  the  ufe  of  the  Mahometan  Granadins :  there  is  no  altera- 
tion made  in  it ;  the  Gothick  Windows  and  Infcriptions  continue  on  the 
Gates;  the  Belfry,  which  is  a  fquare  Tower,  ferves  for  a  Minaret.  The 
Dominicans  have  alfo  a  Church  at  Galata  dedicated  to  St.  Peter,  of  which 
they  have  been  in  pofTeflion  for  above  300  Years.  The  Trench  Capu- 
chins have  had  there  for  above  100  Years  a  Church  call'd  St.  George;  it 
belongs  to  the  Genoefe.  The  Greeks  have  three  Churches  in  the  Quarter 
of  Cara-cui,  and  the  Armenians  one  by  the  name  of  St.  Gregory.  The 
Latins  polTefs  that  of  St.  Benedict^  which  in  the  time  of  the  Genoefe  be- 
iong'd  to  the  Benedi&ines  ;  but  it  was  given  to  the  Jefuits  by  the  Com- 
munity of  Pera.  The  Recolets,  or  Zocolanti,  have  a  Being  at  Per  a  right 
againft  the  Holpital  of  the  Fathers  of  the  Holy  Land,  whofe  fole  Bufinefs 
at  Conflantinople  is  to  take  care  of  the  Affairs  of  the  Holy  Places.  The 
Cordeliers  were  Curates  at  Galata  for  400  Years,  but  their  Church  is  con- 
verted 


Defcription  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  377 

verted  to  a  Mofque,  call'd  by  the  Franks  the  Mofque  of  St.  Francis,  and  Lett.  XII. 
by  the  Turks  the  Mofque  of  Valide  the  prefent  Sultanefs,  who  has  contri-  V-C?^V^>J 
buted  to  the  rebuilding  of  it.  This  Church  was  loft  purely  by  the  fault 
of  the  Italian  Monks,  who  lived  a  molt  irregular  Life  :  they  fold  by  re- 
tail Wine  and  Brandy,  a  moft  abominable  Trade  in  the  eye  of  a  Turk. 
They  have  fondly  inferted  in  the  Letters-Patent  of  its  Foundation,  That 
they  have  converted  a  Place  of  Scandal  and  Infamy,  into  a  Houfe  of  God. 
The  Cordeliers  at  prefent  are  withdrawn  to  Per  a,  where  they  receive  their 
Parilhioners  in  a  Room  of  their  Houfe,  which  they  have  turn'd  into  a 
Chappel :  their  Superior  is  Vicar  to  the  Patriarch  of  Conftantinople,  who 
is  ufually  a  Cardinal. 

ONE  taftes  in  Galata  a  fmatch  of  Liberty,  not  to  be  found  elfe- 
where  throughout  the  Ottoman  Empire.  Galata  is  as  it  were  Chrifiendom 
in  Turky :  Taverns  are  tolerated,  and  the  Turks  themfelves  refrain  not 
from  'em,  but  freely  refort  thither  to  take  a  chearful  Glafs.  The  Fifh- 
Market  is  worth  feeing,  and  furpafTes  that  on  the  other  fide  the  Port  go- 
ing to  St.  Sophia  :  this  of  Galata  is  a  long  Street,  furnim'd  on  both  fides 
with  the  fined  Fiih  in  the  world. 

YOU  go  up  from  Galata  to  Per  a,  which  is  as  it  were  its  Suburb,  and  rit^s,  trans, 
was  formerly  confounded  under  the  fame  name.     Pera  is  a  Greek  Word, 
fignifying  beyond ;  and  the  Greeks  of  Conjtantinople,  when  they  are  minded 
to  go  beyond  the  Port,  ftill  ufe  this  word,  which  has  been  taken  by 
Strangers  for  the  whole  Quarter.     This   Quarter  including  Galata  and 
Pera,  is  call'd'  Perea  by  Nicetas,  by  Gregoras,  by  Pachymerus,  and  plain '  ns^cia. 
Pera  by  other  Authors  •  but  at  prefent  Pera  is  diftinguiih'd  from  Galata, 
and  is  precifely  nothing  but  the  Suburb  fituated  beyond  the  Gate  of  that 
Town.     The  Greeks  in   like  manner  call  Paflage-Boats  Peramidia,  and  n^.*, 
the  Franks  by  Corruption  Permes.     The  Situation  of  Pera  is  perfectly  tLTy  pjfap 
charming;  from  it  you  have  a  View  of  the  whole  Coaft  of  Afia,  and  of^w/ 
the  Grand  Signior's  Seraglio.     The  EmbafTadors  of  France,  England,  Ve-  ^Effort- 
nice,  and  Holland,  have  their  Palaces  in  Pera :  the  Embaflador  of  the 
King  of  Hungary,  (for  under  that  Title,  and  no  other,  the  Emperor  fends 
him)  thofe  of  Poland,  and  of  Ragufa,  are  lodg'd  in  Confiantinople.     We 
have  already  taken  notice  of  the  Palace  of  France,  the  Chappel  whereof 
is  ferv'd  by  Capuchin  Fryars,  who  are  likewife  the  Teachers  of  certain 
Vol.  I.  C  c  c  young 


373 


A  Votage  into  the  Levant. 


young  Lads  the  King  fends  thither  to  learn  the  Turkish,  Arabian,  and 
Greek  Languages,  that  they  may  afterwards  ferve  for  Interpreters  to  the 
French  Confuls  in  the  Ports  of  the  Levant.  The  foreign  Merchants  have 
their  Houfes  and  Ware-houfes  in  Pera,  as  well  as  in  Galata,  promifcuoufly 
with  the  Jews,  Greeks,  Armenians,  and  Turks.  There's  a  Seraglio  in  Per  a, 
where  are  brought  up  the  Children  of  the  Tribute,  i.  e.  fuch  as  have  been 
chofen  out  by  the  Grand  Signior's  Officers  from  among  the  Greeks  in 
Europe,  to  ferve  about  the  Perfbn  of  his  Highnels  after  they  are  made 
Muffulmans,  and  are  inftructed  in  the  neceffary  Exercifes.  This  Cuftom 
being  difcontinu'd,  the  Seraglio  runs  to  decay. 

FROM  Per  a  you  go  down  to  Topana,  another  Suburb,  juft  as  you 
enter  the  Canal  of  the  Black  Sea :  here  fuch  as  have  a  mind  to  divert 
themfelves  on  the  Water,  ulually  take  Boat.  Nothing  is  fb  agreeable  as 
the  Amphitheatre  form'd  by  the  Houfes  of  Galata,  Pera,  and  Topana9 
running  from  the  tops  of  the  Hills  as  far  as  the  Sea.  Topana  is  fbme- 
wbat  lefs  than  either  of  the  other.  Mezomorto,  who  was  Captain-Baihaw 
in  1 701,  built  a  handfbme  Seraglio  here.  A  hundred  paces  from  the 
Sea  Hands  the  Arfenal  or  Foundery  for  Cannon  (call'd  Topana  in  Turkijb) 
it  is  a  Houfe  cover'd  with  low  Domes,  and  has  given  its  name  to  the 
whole  Quarter.  The  Turks  call  very  good  Cannon,  they  ufe  good  Stuff, 
and  obferve  a  juft  Proportion ;  but  their  Artillery  is  as  plain  as  poffible 
without  the  leaft  Ornament. 

THE  Turks  are  no  Draughts-men,  they  have  no  Notion  of  Drawing, 
nor  ever  will,  being  forbid  by  their  Religion  to   deflgn  any  manner  of 
Figures  ;  and  without  Figures  the  Tafte  can't  be  form'd,  either  in  Sculp- 
ture or  Painting :  the  Turks  therefore  are  ne'er  the  better  for  thole  An- 
tiques they  have  up  and  down  among  'em.     There  are  but  two  Obelisks 
and  fome  few  Columns  at  Conftantinople,  befides  fbme  Bas-Reliefs  at  the 
Codin.  &       Seven  Towers.     The  Obelisks  are  in  a  place  call'd  Atmeidan,  mention'd 
before  to  have  been  the  antient  Hippodrome  or  Running-place  for  Horfes  • 
the  Turks  have  done  little  more  than  tranflate  the  Name  of  it,  for  At  in 
Turki[h   fignifies  a  Horfe,  and  Meidan  a  place  ;    it  is  about  400  paces 
long,  and  100  wide. 

EVE  RY  Friday,   for  the  mod  part,  when  Service  is  over  at  the 

Mofques,  the  young  Turks  that  pretend  to  Feats  of  Activity,  get  together 

*  at 


Defer iption  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  qjc? 

at  this  place,  well  drefs'd  and  handfomly  mounted;  where  they  divide  Lett. XII. 
thcrnfelves  into  two  Companies,  at  each  end  one.  On  giving  a  Signal,  a  ~*^"V~^J 
Horfeman  darts  from  each  fide,  and  runs  full  fpeed  with  a  long  kind  of 
Dart  in  his  hand ;  the  Excellency  of  their  Performance  confifts  in  throw- 
ing this  Dart  and  hitting  their  Advcrfary,  or  in  avoiding  the  Blow :  their 
Motion  is  inconceivably  fwift,  and  their  Dexterity  and  Addrefs  on  horfe- 
back  miraculous. 

THE  Obelisk  of  Granate  or  Thebaick  Stone  is  ftill  in  the  Atmeidan  :  T«T?*TWe?p 
it  is  a  four-corner'd  Pyramid,  of  one  fingle  Piece,  about  fifty  foot  high,  fM'"K'^"'- 
terminating  in  a  Point,  charg'd  with  Hieroglyphicks,  now  unintelligible : 
a  Proof  however  of  its  being  very  antient,  and  wrought  in  Egypt.    By  the 
Greek  and  Latin  Infcriptions  at  the  Bafe,  we  learn  that  the  Emperor  Theo- 
dofius  caus'd  it  to  be  fet  up  again,  after  it  had  lain  on  the  ground  a  con- 
fiderable  time ;  the  Machines  which  were  made  ufe  of  in  rearing  it,  are 
reprefented  in  Bas- Relief.     Nicetas,  in  the  Life  of  St.  Ignatius  Patriarch  Nicetas  Paph- 
of  Conftantinople,  obferves  that  this  Obelisk  had  at  its  top  a  brazen  Pine-  ag'  „. 
Apple,  which  was  thrown  down  by  an  Earthquake.  caw. 

HARD  by  are  feen  the  Remains  of  another  Obelisk  with  four  Faces, 
built  with  different  Pieces  of  Marble  ;  the  tip  of  it  is  fallen,  and  the  reft  coioflus  ftruc- 
can't  long  continue :  this  Obelisk  was  cover'd  over  with  brazen  Plates,  as 
is  apparent  from  the  holes  made  to  receive  the  Pegs  that  faften'd  'em  to 
the  Marble.  Thefe  Plates  were  certainly  fet  off  with  Bas-Reliefs  and 
other  Ornaments  ;  for  the  Infcription  at  the  bottom  fpeaks  of  it  as  a 
Work  altogether  marvellous.  Bondelmont,  in  his  Defcription  of  Conftan- 
tinople, makes  the  other  Obelisk  to  be  24  Cubits  high,  and  this  58  ;  per- 
haps it  (imported  the  brazen  Column  of  the  three  Serpents.  The  Infcrip- 
tion tranflated,  is  as  follows :  The  Emperor  Conftantine  now  reigning,  Fa- 
ther of  Romanus  the  Glory  of  the  Empire,  has  made  much  more  wonderful 
than  it  was  before,  this  admirable  fquare  Pyramid,  which  Time  had  deftrofd, 
and  which  was  crouded  with  fublime  things ;  for  the  incomparable  Coloffus  was 
at  Rhodes,  and  this  furprizing  Work  here. 

I T  is  not  known  what  were  thefe  fublime  things,  nor  what  relation 
there  was  between  this  Work  and  the  Coloffus  of  Rhodes,  unlefs  their 
being  both  wonderful  in  their  kind.    In  fhort,  'tis  a  perfect  Riddle. 

Ccc  2  THE 


38< 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 


THE  Column  of  the  three  Serpents  is  no  better  known ;  it  is  about 
fifteen  foot  high,  form'd  by  three  Serpents  turn'd  fpirally  like  a  Roll  of 
Tobacco ;  their  Contours  diminilh  infenfibly  from  the  Bafe  as  far  as  the 
Necks  of  the  Serpents,  and  their  Heads  fpreading  on  the  fides  like  a  Tri- 
pos, compofe  a  kind  of  Chapiter.     Sultan  Mourat  is  faid  to  have  broke 
away  the  Head  of  one  of  'em  :  the  Pillar  was  thrown  down,  and  both  the 
other  Heads  taken  away  in  1700,  after  the  Peace  of  Carlowitz.    What's  be- 
come of  'em,  no  body  can  tell,  but  the  reft  has  been  fet  up  again,  and  is 
among  the  Obelisks,  at  like  diftance  from  each  other :  this  Column  of 
Brafs  is  of  the  very  earlieft,  fuppofing  it  brought  from  Delpbos>  where  it 
ferv'd  to  bear  up  that  famous  golden  Tripod,  which  the  Greeks  after  the 
Battel  of  Platea  found  in  the  Camp  of  Mardonius.     This  Tripos,  Hero- 
L>b.  9-         dotus  lays,  was  borne  on  a  brazen  three-headed  Serpent :  it  was  confe- 
crated  to  Apollo,  and  placed  near  the  Altar  in  his  Temple  of  Delphos. 
Paufanias,  General  of  the  Lacedemonians  at  the  Battel  of  PUtea,  was  for 
Paufan  Pho-   exPrefliHg  this  piece  of  Gratitude  to  that  God.     Paufanias  the  Gramma- 
mic.  rian,  who  was  of  C<efarea  in  Cappadocia,  and  who  in  the  fecond  Age  pub- 

lifh'd  a  fine  Delcription  of  Greece,  takes  notice  of  this  lame  Tripod : 
After  the  Battel  of  Platea,  fays  he,  the  Greeks  made  a  Prefent  to  Apollo  of 
a  golden  Tripod  (landing  on  a  brazen  Serpent.  It  is  by  no  means  un- 
likely this  mould  be  it ;  for  befides  that  Z^zimm  and  Sozomenes  affirm  the 
Emperor  Conjlantine  caus'd  the  Delpbick  Tripods  to  be  brought  hither, 
Euftbiiis  relates,  that  this  Tripod  fo  tranlported  did  Hand  on  a  Serpent 
folded  fpirally. 

SUCH  as  will  have  thefe  Serpents  to  be Talilmans,  have  lome  colour 
for  lb  thinking,  from  the  Byzantines  praying  Apollonius  Tkyantus  to  drive 
away  the  Serpents  and  Scorpions,  as  Gljcas  writes.  'Twas  a  common 
Trade  with  Apollonius,  to  reprefent  in  Brais  the  Figures  of  luch  Creatures 
Amui.Giyc.  as  he  pretended  to  expel:  for  the  lame  Gljcas  writes,  that  he  erected  a 
brazen  Scorpion  in  Aniioch,  in  order  to  deliver  that  City  from.  Scorpions. 

I N  the  Street  call'd  Adrianople,  they  ihew'd  us  the  burnt  Column ;  and 
well  may  it  be  call'd  ib,  for  'tis  fb  black  and  irnoke-dry'd  by  the  frequent 
Fires  that  have  happcn'd  to  the  Houfes  thereabouts,  'tis  no  eafy  matter 
to  find  out  what 'tis  made  of.  But  upon  a  narrow  Inipe&ion,  it  appear'd 
to  be  Porphyry-Stones,  the  Junctures  hid  with  Copper  Rings.    'Tis 

^  thought 


part; 


Ttefcription  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  381 

thought  Confiantine's  Figure  flood  on  it ;  by  the  Infcription  we  Iearnr,  Lett.  XIL 
That  that  admirable  Piece  of  Workmanship  was  refiored  by  the  molt  pious  Em-  t/sXiT^ 
per  or  Manuel  Comnenes.     G  lye  as  reports,  that  towards  the  Clofe  of  the  w>  &c- 
Reign  of  Nicephorus  Botoniates,  who  was  fhaven  and  put  into  a  Cloifter^ 
Confiantine's  Column  was  ttruck  with  Thunder,  and  that  this  Column  flip- 
ported  the  Figure  of  Apollo,  then  call'd  by  that  Emperor's  Name. 

THE  Column  call'd  Hifiorical  is  not  of  fo  valuable  StuffJ  it  being 
only  plain  Marble ;  but 'tis  remarkable  for  its  height,  which  is  147  feet; 
and  for  its  Bas-Reliefs,  which  are  well-defign'd  for  thofe  times,  'tis  pity 
the  Fire  has  10  disfigur'd  'em  :  they  reprefent  the  Victories  of  the  Empe- 
ror Arcadius  ;  the  conquer'd  Towns  appear  under  the  fhape  of  Women  y 
whole  Heads  are  crown'd  with  Towers :  the  Horfes  are  finely  done  ;  bur; 
the  Emperor  is  fitting  in  a  kind  of  Elbow-Chair  in  a  Fur-Gown,  not  un- 
like a  Judge.  The  Labarum,  or  Imperial  Standard,,  is  over  his  head, 
held  by  two  Angels  with  the  Device  of  the  Chriftian  Emperors,  Jefus  *■  x.Nnta*. 
Chritt  is  Conqueror.  As  for  Martian's  Column,  tho  it  be  of  Granate,  it 
is  not  much  inquired  after ;  it  does  more  honour  to  MelTieurs  Span  and 
Wheeler  who  firft  difcover  d  it,  than  to  Tatianus  who  erected  it :  it  may. 
have  been  the  Urn  wherein  that  Emperor's  (Marcianus)  Heart  was  put, 
'Tis  fbmewhat  flrange  this  Column  efcaped  the  Curioficy  of  M.G/lles,  in- 
his  exact  Defcription  of  Constantinople :  it  Hands  in  a  private  Court -yard, 
clofe  by  the  Street  call'd  Adrianople,  near  the  Baths  of  Ibrahim  Bafhaw. 

AFTER  well  obferving  this  Street,  the  longefl  and  broaden:  of  any 
in  the  City,  the  next  Walk  ufually  is  the  Bazars  or  Bezeflins,  Places  like 
our  Changes  for  felling  fine  Wares  of  all  forts.  The  old  and  new  Bazar 
fland  pretty  near  each  other  ;  they  are  large  fquare  Buildings,  cover'd  with 
Domes  fupported  by  Arches  and  Pilafters.  In  the  old  one  there  is  but? 
little  fine  Merchandize ;  it  was  built  in  1461  :  here  they  fell  all  forts  of  nucaS)  H.Tt, 
Weapons,  efpecially  Sabres ;  and  likewife  Horfe-Harnefs,  fbme  of  which  B?z'  "F'^1- 
are  enrich'd  with  Gold,  Silver,  and  precious  Stones.  The  new  Bazar  is 
replenilh'd  with  all  manner  of  Merchandize ;  and  tho  there's  none  buc 
Goldfmiths  Shops,  yet  they  fell  Furs,  Verts,  Carpets,  Stuffs  of  Gold  and 
Silver,  Silk,  Goats-hair ;  nor  is  it  without  Jewels  and  China- Ware.  They 
are  now  repairing  it ;  it  will  be  much  more  lightfome  than  before  :  there- 
will  be  Apartments  for  Officers  that  have  the  guard  of  it,  and  go  their 

rounds. 


382  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

rounds  day  and  flight;  The  Goods  are  well  fecured  in  thefe  places  ;  the 
Gates  lhut  betimes.  The  Turks  retire  to  their  own  homes  in  the  City, 
but  the  Chrifiian  and  Jetvijb  Merchants  crof's  the  Water,  and  return  next 


morning. 


THE  Market  for  Slaves  of  both  Sexes  is  not  far  off;  here  the  poor 
Wretches  fit  in  a  melancholy  pofture :  before  they  cheapen  'em,  they 
turn  'em  about  from  this  fide  to  that,  furvey  'em  from  top  to  bottom,  put 
'em  to  exercife  whatever  they  have  learnt  •,  and  this  feveral  times  a  day, 
without  coming  to  any  Agreement.  Such  of  'em,  both  Men  and  Wo- 
men, to  whom  Dame  Nature  has  been  niggardly  of  her  Charms,  are  fee 
apart  for  the  vileft  Services  ;  but  fuch  Girls  as  have  Youth  and  Beauty, 
pafs  their  time  well  enough,  only  they  often  force  'em  to  turn  Mahometans. 
The  Retailers  of  this  Human  Ware  are  the  Jews,  who  take  good  care  of 
their  Slaves  Education,  that  they  may  fell  the  better :  their  choiceft  they 
keep  at  home,  and  there  you  mufl  go,  if  you'd  have  better  than  ordi- 
nary ;  for  'tis  here  as  'tis  in  Markets  for  Horfes,  the  handfbmeft  don't 
always  appear,  but  are  kept  within  doors  :  thefe  Jews  teach  their  beauti- 
ful She-Slaves  to  dance,  fing,  play  on  Inftruments,  and  every  thing  elfe 
that  may  inlpire  Love.  Sometimes  they  marry  very  advantageoufly,  and 
feel  nothing  of  Slavery  ;  they  have  the  fame  liberty  in  their  Houfes,  as 
the  Turkijb  Women  themfelves. 

NOTHING'S  fo  pleafant,  as  to  fee  inceffantly  coming  from  Hun- 
gtry,  Greece,  Candia,  RuJJta,  Mengrelia,  and  Georgia,  Swarms  of  young 
Wenches  defign'd  for  the  Service  of  the  Turks.  The  Sultans,  the  Ba- 
fhaws,  and  the  greatefl  Lords,  often  chufe  their  Wives  among  'em. 

THE  Women  whom  Fortune  allots  to  the  Seraglio,  are  not  always 
the  belt,  difpos'd  of :  'tis  true,  a  poor  Shepherd's  Daughter  may  come  to 
be  Sultanefs,  but  then  what  numbers  of  'em  are  neglected  by  the  Sultan  ? 
After  the  death  of  the  Sultan,  they  are  fliut  up  for  the  reft  of  their  days 
in  the  old  Seraglio,  where  they  pine  themfelves  away  unlefs  fbme  Bafhavv 
courts  'em.  This  old  Seraglio,  which  flands  hard  by  Sultan  Bajazefs 
Mofque,  was  built  by  Mahomet  II.  Here  are  confined  thefe  poor  Wo- 
men, to  bewail  at  leifure  the  Death  of  a  Prince,  or  that  of  their  Chil- 
dren, whom  the  new  Sultan  often  caufes  to  be  ftrangled :  'twould  be  a 
crime  to  fhed  a  Tear  in  the  Seraglio  where  the  Emperor  refides ;  on  the 

con- 


Defcription  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  383 

contrary,  every  body  ftrives  to  exprefs  their  Joy  for  his  Acceflion  to  Lett.  XII. 
the  Throne.  *•- f~V"v- 

THE  great  Square  near  the  Mofque  of  Sultan  Bajazet,  is  the  place 
where  the  Mountebanks  and  Jugglers  with  their  Cups  and  Balls  play  their 
Tricks.     We  had  not  time  to  lee  them,  nor  a  thouland  other  things  be- 
fides.     We  endeavour'd,  but  to  no  purpofe,  to  fee  the  Caftle  of  the  Seven  'Evlnmnim 
Towers,  fituated  at  the  further  end  of  the  Town  toward  the  main  Land  ^edl™ule>ieP- 

'  tem  Turres, 

and  the  Sea  of  Marmara.     Every  body  knows,  this  Caflle  took  its  name »  a^W/? 
from  thofe  fame  Towers  cover'd  with  Lead  :  'tis  a  kind  of  Baftile  or  Pri-  w6?7h*  et7<s 
fbn  for  Perfons  of  Diftinciion ;  but 'tis  afiured  they  admit  no  Strangers  t&T4futJii" 
fee  it,  fince  the  Chevalier  de  Beaujeu,  who  was  there  confined,  found 
means  to  efcape.     He  had  made  fuch  confiderable  Captures  on  the  Turks, 
that  the  Grand  Signior  reveng'd  himfelf  on  the  Head  of  the  Governour, 
by  caufing  it  to  be  (truck  off.     The  gilded  Gate,  which  was  the  molt 
confiderable  of  Conftantinople  under  the  Greek   Emperors,  is  within  this 
Prifon-Wall.      In  the  time  of  the  Greek  Emperors,  there  was  at  this 
Gate  a  kind  of  Caftle  call'd  the  '  Round  Caftle.     '  Cantacuzenm,  who  was  ■  kuxa^/oc  ? 
Emperor  for  fbme  time,   lets  us  know  that  he  render'd  it  almoft  impreg-  Ka^^tw 
nable  by  adding  new  Fortifications,  which  were  demolilh'd  by  John  Pa~  TheoPhan>. 
leologus,  his  Son-in-Law,  who  thruft  him  into  a  Monaftery  :  Bajaz,et  mean  =  Canwcuz 
while  threatning  to  befiege  the  Town,  Paleologus  ftrengthen'd  with  new  I,b- 4- «p- 4^ 
Works  the  gilded  Gates ;  but  fcarce  had  they  finiih'd  'em,  when  Bajazet 
by  his  Menaces  made  'em  demolifh  'em.     If  this  Sultan  had  not  had  Tar 
merlane  upon  his  hands,  he  had  certainly  befieged  and  taken  Conftantinople ; 
for  Paleologus  was  too  weak  to  hinder  it.     The  Conqueft  of  this  City  was  Duca.3  c—^ 
reierv'd  for  Mahomet  II.  'twas  he  that  put  the  Caftle  in  the  condition  'tis  chalcocondyi.. 
now  in.     For  fecuring  his  Treafure,  he  added  three  Towers  to  thofe  that  LeUn°. pand 
were  at  the  gilded  Gate,  and  caus'd  it  to  be  wall'd  in :  theie  three  Towers  Turc'  num* 
are  within  the  compafs  of  the  City,  for  the  fide  the  gilded  Gate  is  of, 
looks  towards  the  Country.     The  Place  is  pentagonal,  but  not  large, 
and  has  no  Ditch  on  the  fide  of  Conftantinople. 

W  E  had  a  mighty  defire  to  fee  the  Bas-Reliefs  of  this  Gate.  M.  Span 
afTures  us,  there  are  three  principal  ones  ;  Phaeton's  Fall  is  repreien- 
ted  on  the  firft  ;  the  fecond  fhews  Hercules  dragging  Cerbertu  ;  and 
the  third,  Venus  lighted  by  Cupid's  Torch,  iurveying  the  Beauties  of  an 

Adonis 


1 39. 


384 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 


Adonis  flccping  :  but  we  prefer'd  the  March  of  the  Grand  Vifier  to  all 
thefe.  Such  Strangers  as  cannot  make  a  long  flay  in  Confiantinopley  would 
be  to  blame  did  they  neglecT:  to  fee  this  Spectacle  :  we  were  dazled  with  it ; 
the  Ceremony  lafted  half  a  day  :  we  had  a  full  View  of  it  in  the  Adrianople 
Street,  at  a  private  Houfe.  All  the  Balhaws  of  the  Empire  that  were  then 
at  Conjlantinople,  accompany'd  the  Prime  Vifier  on  horfeback,  all  whole 
Domefticks  were  gallantly  mounted  and  richly  habited  :  the  other  Vifiers 
ailifted  in  it  with  their  Beglerbeys  and  the  Sangiacks,  who  on  fuch  occafions 
are  obliged  to  march  with  all  their  Officers  and  Domeflicks.  The  Agas 
fail  not  to  appear,  nor  any  ProfefTbrs  of  the  Law,  who  have  bufinefs 
with  this  Lieutenant-General  of  the  Empire  :  'tis  indeed  a  Triumph  with 
refpect  to  him.     You  lee  the  finell  Horfes  of  all  the  Levant,  cover'd 

gt/fft*,  Amum  with  Houfings  fvveeping_along  the  ground,  embroider'd  with  Gold  and 
Silver  fo  fubftantially,  as  to  ferve  for  many  Generations;  the  other  part 
of  the  Harnefs  befet  with  precious  Stones.  The  Variety  of  Turbants 
and  Caps  is -extremely  delightful.  Sabres,  Quivers,  Arrows,  long  Darts, 
Veils,  Fur-Gowns,  &c.  exceed  all  defcription.  The  only  thing  I  dif- 
liked,  was  the  Officers,  inftead  of  Piflols,  carrying  at  their  Saddle-bow 

Mataras.  huge  Leather  Bottles,  pyramidally  ihaped,  which  they  fill  with  Water 
every  Spring  they  come  at. 

THESE  Cavalcades  are  much  more  fplendid,  you  may  well  believe, 
at  fuch  times  as  the  Sultan  is  there  in  perfon.  And  yet  I  can't  help  think- 
ing the  Kings  of  France  would  make  a  better  figure  than  what  I'm  de- 
fcribing,  would  they  but  order  the  whole  Royal  Family,  and  all  the 
Lords  of  the  Court,  to  attend  them  whenever  they  went  to  the  Army, 
or  a  Progrefs :  but  every  Country  has  its  Cuftoms,  and  the  European 
Princes  are  not  ufed  to  travel  in  fiich  flate. 

NOT  long  after  this,  the  EmbafTador  did  me  the  honour  to  permit 
me  near  him,  when  he  had  Audience  of  the  Grand  Vifier,  who  was  under 
his  Tents  four  miles  from  the  Town,  on  the  Road  to  Adrianople.  No- 
thing furpriz'd  me  ib  much  as  thefe  portable  Houfes  ;  they  are  prodi- 
gioufly  magnificent,  rich,  large,  beautiful ;  the  Proportions,  Defign,  Or- 
naments, every  thing  is  admirable.  His  Excellency  being  in  that  of  the 
Vifier,  fat  down  on  a  Stool,  the  Vifier  on  a  Sopha,  his  Officers  on  the 
right  and  left,  the  Janizaries  in  Rows  along  the  Walls  ;  we,  who  were  of 

the 


Defcription  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  385 

the  Embatfador's  Train,  forin'd  a  good  thick  Column  behind  his  Stool,  Lett.  XII- 
A  refpeclml  Silence  was  obfeiv'd  throughout;  the  Druggermans  on  both 
fides  did  their  Duty,  and  when  they  had  explain'd  their  Mailer's  Inten- 
sions, every  body  departed  without  the  lead  Ceremony. 

I  HAD  alfo  the  honour  to  accompany  Monfieur  the  EmbafTador  in 
fome  Vifits  ;  he  was  attended  by  thole  of  our  Nation,  very  neatly  drels'd 
and  well  mounted.     As  we  pals'd  by  the  Tent  of  Maurocordato,  his  Ex- 
cellency, after  the  ufual  Civilities,  was  pleas'd  to  prefeut  me  to  him.    Mau- 
rocordato is  a  very  ingenious  Man,  and  tho  a  Greek  by  Nation  and  Religion, 
has  been  promoted  to  the  Oillce  of  Ccuniellor  of  State:  he  was  born  at 
Seioj  and  ftudy'd  Phyfick  at  PaJu.t,  where  he  took  the  Degrees  of  Doctor 
in  that  Faculty :  he  has  writ  a  Treatile  of  Reipiration  and  of  the  Mo- 
tion of  the  Heart.     Having  much  Genius,  and  underitanding  Medecine 
better  than  the  generality  of  thole  who  pretend  to  it  in  the  Seraglio,  he 
foon  was  taken  noiice  of.     He  not  long  after  laid  afide  the  Practice  of 
Phyfick,  for  certain  Reafons,  and  refolv'd  to  make  the  moll  of  his  Know- 
ledge in  Languages,  of  which  he  has  attain'd  a  great  Maftery.     As  he  is 
well  inform'd  in  foreign  Affairs,  and  no  flranger  to  the  Interefls  of  the 
Princes  of  Europe,  he  met  with  a  thouiand  opportunities  of  ihewing  his 
Capacity,  and  in  a  few  years  came  to  be  chief  Interpreter  to  the  Grand 
Signior.     He  made  himfelf  fo  neceflary  in  the  lafl  War  with  Germany, 
that  he  was  appointed  Plenipotentiary  at  the  Peace  of  Carloivitz ;  and 
that  this  Character  might  fit  the  better  on  him,  he  was  made  a  Counfellor 
of  State.     He  has  a  good  ihare  of  Wit,  and  a  very  promifing  Phyfiogno- 
my  ;  and  has  accordingly  attracted  the  Confidence  of  the  chief  Lords  of 
the  Court,  and  of  the  Sultan  himlelf,  on  account  of  his  Qualifications 
in  Politicks  and  Medicine.     He  feem'd  to  me  to  be  one  that  would  tem- 
porize in  the  Practice  of  that  Science,  and  own'd  to  me  that  he  was  an 
Admirer  of  the  Boldnefs  of  the  European  Phyficians,  but  that  he  was  too 
old  to  imitate  them,  and  alter  his  own  Method.     I  faid  that  in  Europe  we 
enter'd  into   the  true  Mind  of  Hippocrates,  and  endeavour'd  to  lay  hold 
of  thole  precious  Moments  that  orler'd  themielves  in  acute  Diflempers- 
that  the  illuftrious  M.  Eagon,  firft  Phyfician  to  the  Emperor  of  France,  had 
happily  taught  us  to  exert  our  utmoft  Diligence  in  every  Inilance  recom- 
mended by  that  famous  Greek  in  iuch  Cafes  as  required  diipatch,  and  that 
Vol.  I.  D  d  d  there- 


g86  ^  Voyage  into  tie  Levant. 

therefore  we  made  ufe  of  Remedies  unknown  to  him,  and  all  the  Greeks 
that  concern'd  themfelves  in  Medecine ;  and  inftead  of  that  formidable 
Hellebore,  Thymelea,  and  other  Purgatives,  that  are  attended  with  ugly- 
Accidents,  we  ferv'd  our  felves  of  Caffia  and  Manna,  and  Preparations  of 
Antimony,  which  root  out  the  Caufe  of  the  moft  dangerous  Maladies, 
without  begetting  frefh  Symptoms.  How  do  ye  manage  as  to  bleeding, 
ask'd  he  ?  I  told  him  we  often  practis'd  it,  both  before  and  after  the 
Evacuations  I  had  been  fpeaking  of,  according  as  the  Cafe  requir'd :  ad- 
ding, that  it  was  a  Secret  we  were  indebted  to  the  faid  M.  Fagon  for,  in 
oi  er  to  avoid  Inflammations  that  fometimes  fucceed  ftrong  Purgings.  He 
exprefs'd  himfelf  to  be  fatisfy'd  with  this  Method. 

FROM  Medecine  we  pafs'd  to  Botany  :  his  Head  running  fblely  upon 
Politicks,  he  wonder'd  I  came  fo  far  only  to  hunt  for  new  Plants ;  and  his 
Surprize  increased,  when  I  aflur'd  him  that  the  Royal  Garden  at  Paris 
abounded  with  greater  numbers :  for  he  had  never  feen  any  but  that  of 
Padua,  where  they  won't  be  at  the  charge  of  fuch  Inquiries.     I  added, 
that  in  my  ordinary  Lectures  in  the  Royal  Garden  I  once  a  year  demon- 
flrated  above  jooo  Plants  in  fix  weeks  time,  exclufive  of  fuch  as  could 
not  then  be  fliewn,  became  not  in  their  feafbn.    Theophrafius  and  Diofco- 
rides,  I  told  him,  would  be  fbrangely  aftonifh'd,  (were  they  alive  again) 
to  behold  fuch  a  prodigious  Collection  of  Plants,  as  is  to  be  feen  ia 
our  Gardens ;  many  of  which  they  knew  nothing  of.    We  came  after- 
wards to  talk  about  the  Greek  Tongue ;  he  with  a  Smile  faid,  we  were  in 
the  wrong  to  pretend  to  teach  Them  how  to  pronounce  it,  and  that  he 
mould  be  glad  to  hear  my  Opinion  of  that  matter.     I  refer  my  felf  in- 
tirely  to  you,  cry'd  I,  fince  you  {peak  Latin  fb  well,  and  have  fo  carefully 
read  Cicero  :    Thar    Great  Man,  you   know,    had   been  at  Athens  and 
Rhodes  ;  and  it  is  highly  probable,  he  pronoune'd  the  Greek  Tongue  as  it 
ufed  to  be  pronoune'd  in  Greece :  why  mould  he  write  it  Delos  and  De- 
moftbenes,  if  the  Greeks  pronoune'd  it  Dilos  and  Demofihenis  ?     He  did 
not  altogether  difapprove  this  Reflection ;  then  ask'd  me  if  I  had  met 
with  many  Medals  in  my  Voyage  through  the  Archipelago :  I  anfwer'd,, 
I  had  not,  but  that  I  was  well  enough  pleas'd  with  fome  Infcriptions  I  had 
feen.    After  the  ufual  Civilities,  we  parted ;  he  made  me  promiie  to  fee 
him  again  after  my  Return  out  ofAJia,  and  made  a  Tender  of  his  Service 

with 


r~/.  t. 


.  7lia.3St- 


i//n/^'  cj u~ (Iw/inritifwyp/t' ,  /v/r// 
<yf/t  //A;-  ,i  ///////////  /*/ ij 


Defer iption  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  387 

with  the  utmoft  Complaifance.  I  thank'd  his  Excellency  for  procuring  Lett.  XII. 
me  an  Interview  with  ib  great  a  Man :  I  have  fince  underflood,  that  he  ^"V"v-# 
had  like  to  have  loll  his  Life  in  the  Alterations  that  happen'd  on  the  death 
of  Fefoui/U  Mufti,  who  was  knock'd  o'  the  head,  dragg'd  through  the 
Streets  of  Adrianople,  and  call  into  the  River :  Maurocordato,  who  was 
in  his  Confidence,  found  means  to  conceal  himfelf,  and  fecure  moll  of  his 
Effects.  There's  nothing  permanent  at  the  Ottoman  Porte ;  it  is  a  Wheel 
that's  inceiTantly  turning.  The  Abbot  Michaelis  has  writ  me  from  Con- 
ftantinople,  that  Maurocordato  was  return'd  to  Court,  as  much  in  efleem 
as  ever. 

1 F  we  made  no  dilcoveries  in  Conftantinople  with  relation  to  Antiqui- 
ties, we  however  met  with  fome  fcarce  Plants  for  the  Embeliihment  of 
the  Royal  Garden,  unknown  to  all  that  had  travell'd  the  Levant  before 
us :  the  Antients  themfelves  have  made  no  mention  of  what  Plants  grow 
about  this  great  City,  tho  they  flruck  Medals  to  Bacchus  and  Get  a  with  btzanti- 
huge  Bunches  of  Grapes,  fome  of  which  Medals  ate  in  the  King's  Cabi- 
net ;  yet  the  Wine  about  Conftantinople  is  none  of  the  bell,  nor  was  ever 
reckon'd  otherwife.  This  Country  is  fertile  in  fine  Plants,  but  Mon- 
fieur  the  Marquifs  de  Ferriol  having  propos'd  to  us  to  take  a  Journey  to 
Trebifond,  and  improve  the  opportunity  of  the  Departure  of  Numan  Cu- 
perlif  Balhaw  of  Erzeron,  who  was  going  thither  by  the  way  of  the 
Black  Sea ;  we  thought  of  nothing  but  preparing  our  lelves  for  that  Jour- 
ney, His  Excellency  procur'd  us  the  Bafhaw's  Protection,  nor  was  he 
himfelf  difpleas'd  to  have  fome  Phyficians  in  his  Company.  But  before  I 
quit  Conftantinople,  your  Lordfliip  will  give  me  leave  to  fend  you  the  De- 
fcriptions  of  fome  rare  Plants  we  met  with  at  the  very  Gates  of  that  City. 

BORRAGO  Conftantinopolitanat  Flore  reflexo,  deruleo,  Calyce  veficario, 
Corol.  Intl.  Rei  Herb.  6. 

ITS  Root  is  as  big  as  one's  little  Finger,  about  four  or  five  inches 
in  length,  blackiih  without,  flelhy,  accompany'd  with  Fibres  of  the  lame 
colour,  which  are  about  half  a  foot  long,  whitiih  within,  fill'd  with  a 
clammy  Humour.  It  puts  forth  Leaves  about  half  a  foot  long,  and  about 
four  or  five  inches  wide,  picked  at  the  ends,  but  at  their  Bafe  divided  into 
two  round  Ears  ;  thefe  Leaves  are  fupported  on  a  Pedicule  or  Stalk  leven 
or  eight  inches  long,  rounded  on  the  back,  hollow'd  pipe-wife  on  the 

Ddd  2  other 


3  88  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

other  fide,  whitifh,  diftributing  it  felf  into  many  thick  Nerves,  extending 
to  the  very  edges :  thefe  Leaves  are  befides  pale-green,  rough,  and  ftudded 
with  fmall  Tumours ;  they  tafte  flat  and  mucilaginous,,  as  do  the  Roots, 
The  Stalk  is  a  foot  high,  fblid,  rough,  hairy,  two  or  three  lines  thick, 
branchy  below,  garnifh'd  with  fmall  Leaves  like  the  other,  but  no  more 
than  two  inches  long,  to  one  and  a  half  broad.  The  Flowers  grow  at  the 
top  of  the  Branches,  they  are  very  fleekf  and  of  a  pale-red  colour :  each 
Flower  is  eight  or  nine  lines  diameter,  Handing  on  a  Stalk  near  half  an 
inch  long,  fwelling  behind  like  a  Bladder,  whitiih,  and  hardly  a.  line 
broad.  This  Flower,  which  is  a  sky-blue,  is  divided  into  five  parts  dif- 
pos'd  like  a  Wheel,  a  line  broad,  turning  back,  obtufe  at  the  point :  from 
the  middle  of  the  Flower,  which  is  whitiih,  tho  the  reft  is  blue,  arifc 
five  Chieves  or  Threds  three  lines  long,  hairy  at  their  Bale,  white  likewife, 
each  charg'd  with  a  blue  Apex.  The  Cup  is  cut  into  five  points,  hairy  j 
and  from  its  Centex  arifes  a  Piflile  or  Pointal  fcruare,  furmounted  by  a  purple 
Thred,  half  an  inch  long :  this  Cup  dilates  into  a  Bladder,  four  or  five 
lines  diameter,  half  an  inch  long,  augulous,  bridling  up  with  Hairs  a  line 
and  a  half  long :  the  Piflile  turns  to  a  Fruit  with  four  Seeds,  each  of  which 
bears  the  figure  of  a  Viper's  Head,  but  are  no  more  than  a  line  long, 
ihining,  bright-green  at  firft,  afterwards  blackifh. 

STMPHTTVM  Conftdntinopolitamm,  Borraginit  Folio  &  Facie,  Flore 
albo.     CoroL  Infl.  Rei  Herb- 

I T  S  Root  is  half  a  foot  long,  five  or  fix  lines  thick,  divided  into 
large  Fibres,  hairy,  whitiih  within,  cover'd  with  a  black  Skin,  flender, 
and  as  it  were  chapr.  Its  Stalks  are  upwards  of  a  foot  in  height,  and 
about  four  lines  thick,  pale-green,  moderately  hairy,  fulL  of  Juice,  as  is 
alfo  the  reft  of  the  Plant  j,  hollow,  unequally  channel' d,  attended  with 
Leaves  diforderly  placed,  like  thole  of  Burrage :  the  undermoft  are  foui 
ox  five  inches  long,  two  inches  and  a  half  broad,  terminating  in  an 
Ova),  pointed,  pale-green,  of  a  flat,  mucilaginous  tafte  like  its  Root,  fuf- 
tain'dby  a  Stalk  about  three  lines  broad  at  firft,  guttering  on  one.  fide 
rounded  on  t'other :  thcic  Leaves  are  fmaii,-  as  they  arc  nearer  the  main 
Stem  ©f  the  Plant.  From-  their  bofoms  fpring  little  Bunches  of  other 
LeaveSj,  and  the  Branches  are  lubdivided-  info  finall-  Sprig?,  generally 
•charg'd.  with,  a  couple;  of  imail  Lea^,.  in  the  miufjt  whereof  are  iorne 

white 


JALZ, 


J'aa-asa. 


J'jg.3fi> 


fierasiuuri  Oriental*-  toJu/n/>//i/t/n 
\Zlore  t/i<ia-///te  .  (ZsaAo-ckli  rathc& 
(o/o//.  If  is/  -.  TL't  /n//> .  ac . 


Defcription  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  389 

white  Flowers,  rang'd  like  a  Scorpion's  Tail,  and  blowing  fucceffively  Lett.  XII". 
one  after  another  :  each  Flower  is  a  Pipe  bending  downwards,  about 
(even  lines  long ;  half  of  this  Flower  which  is  out  of  the  Cup,  widens 
it  felf  like  a  Bell,  about  three  lines  in  the  Opening,  fhallowly  cut  on 
the  edges  into  five  points :  the  other  half  of  the  Flower  is  inclos-'d  in 
the  Cup,  and  is  but  a  line  diameter.  From  within  the  Cup,  where  it  be- 
gins to  dilate,  arife  five  Leaves,  white,  a  line  and  a  half  long,  to  a  quar- 
ter broad  at  their  Bafe ;  and  from  their  Junctures  or  Bolbms  (Armpits, 
the  Author  calls  'em)  arife  five  Stamina  of  the  fame  colour,  a  line  high, 
with  Apices  :  the  bottom  of  the  Pipe  is  perforated  by  the  Piflile,  which 
is  furmounted  by  a  very  fine  Thred  about  eight  lines  long.  The  Cup  is 
another  Pipe  about  four  lines  long,  hairy,  cut  into  five  parts.  The  four 
Embryos  of  the  Piftile  turn  to  ib  many  Seeds,  form'd  like  a  Viper's 
Head  :  we  law  'em  before  they  were  ripe. 

ALL  the  Meadows  about  donftantinople  are  fill'd  with  a  beautiful  fort 
of  CraJti's-Bexky  which  J  have  call'd  by  the  name  of  Geranium  Orientaley 
totumbinam  Flore  ?ndximo,  Jfylwdeli  Radice.  CcroL  Inft.  Rei  Herb.  20» 
For  it  is  found  in  feveral  other  places  of  the  Levants 

ITS  Root  is  like  a  Clutter  of  French  Turnips,  about  two  inches  and 
a  half  long,  flefhy,  brittle,  ftiptick,  reddifh  within,  brown  without,  a- 
bout  three  lines  thick,  tapering  to  a  Point,  delicate  and  hairy.  The 
Body  of  this  Root,  which  generally  lies  athwart,  and  is  ligneous  when 
the  Plant  is  old,  produces  fbme  Stalks  eight  or  nine  inches  high,  one 
line  thick,  pale-green,  hairy,  thofe  towards  the  bottom  of  the  Plant 
lying  flat  on  the  ground,  the  others  rifing  up ;  garnifh'd  with  Leaves  twa 
and  two  at  each  Knot,  exactly  like  thofe  of  the  Crain's-Beak  call'd 
Pidgeorfs-Foot\.  They  have  a  Pedicule  three  inches  long,  fine,  hairy. 
The  Flowers  grow  along  the  Branches,  and  arife  out  of  the  Bolbms  of 
the  Leaves,  which  as  they  grow  nearer  the  tip,  diminiili-:  theie  Flowers 
blow  one  after  another,  are  fuflain'd  by  fome  Tails  ordinarily  fork'd, 
three  or  four  inches  long  :  each  Flower  confifts  of  five  Leaves,  djfpos'd 
in  form  of  a.  Role,  h.Jf  an  inch  about,  three  lines  broad,  round,  faint 
purple.  From  their  Center  grows  a  Pifiile  two  lines  high,  furmounted 
by  1  purple  Tuft  :  the  Stamina  are  white,  very,  fine  to  feel,  and. the 
Ariices  yellow  ill       I  i    Cup  confifts  of  five  Leaves  four  lines  long,  picked, 


3po 


•nin.Hift.Nat, 
lib. l<5.  cip.34, 

Diofc.  lib.  2. 
.tap.  210.   & 
noth.  166. 

HederaDiony 
'•  lios.  C.  B. 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

pale-green,  flreak'd,   difpos'd  like  a  Star:   the  Fruit  was  not  forward 
enough  to  be  capable  of  a  defcription. 

AS  we  pafs'd  through  the  Herb- Market,  we  bought  two  or  three 
Bunches  of  Berries  of  the  yellow-fruited,  Ivy ;  they  grow  as  common  here 
as  the  ordinary  Ivy  at  Paris,  and  the  Turks  ufe  them  in  Cauteries.     The 
Antients  apply'd  them  to  a  nobler  purpofe ;  for  Pliny  affirms,  that  it  was 
confecrated  to  Bacchus,  and  deftin'd  to  crown  the  Poets  wfth.     Its  Leaves, 
as  that  Author  obferves,  are  of  a  brighter  green  than  thofe  of  the  com- 
mon Ivy.     Dalechamp  has  not  well  defcribed  it ;  I  am  apt  to  think  the 
.two  forts  differ  in  nothing  but  the  Colour  of  their  Fruit.     Might  not 
the  Seed  of  the  red-fruited  Holm  produce  Stocks  with  yellow  Fruit? 
Has  not  the  fame  thing  been  obferv'd  of  the  Species  of  Elder  ?     Time 
will  difcover,  whether  the  Ivy  we  are  fpeaking  of  is  the  common  Ivy, 
only  varyM :  this  laft  is  not  fcarce  about  Conftantinople,  and  the  Stocks 
which  have  rais'd  the  Seed  from  the  yellow  fort  in  the  Royal  Garden, 
have  hitherto  been  all  of  'em  like  the  Stocks  which  raife  Seed  from  the 
black  :  their  Leaves  are  corner'd,  and  one  can  hardly  perceive  any  diffe- 
rence.    Diofcorides  feems  to  have  treated  both  Species  as  a  Variety  of 
the  fame. 

I  OBSERVD  the  Fruit  of  the  former  to  be  in  large  Bunches  two 
or  three  inches  diameter,  compos'd  of  feveral  Berries  fpherical,  tho  fome- 
what  angulous,  four  lines  thick,  fomewhat  flat  before,  and  mark'd  with 
a  Circle,  whence  arifes  a  Point  half  a  line  high.  The  Skin,  which  is 
fillamot,  indoles  three  or  four  Berries,  each  two  lines  and  a  half  long, 
white  within  ;  greyifh,  vein'd  black,  and  let  off  with  fmall  rifings  with- 
out :  they  have  no  tafte,  and  are  fhaped  like  a  fmall  Kidney.  The  Flefh 
that  covers  thefe  Berries  is  at  firft  fweetilh,  afterwards  it  feems  muci- 
laginous. 

PL  I N T  has  taken  all  he  fays  of  this  Plant  out  of  Theophraftus  and 
Diofccridest  who  have  only  given  a  confus'd  Account  of  Ivy :  that  which 
they  dclcribe  with  white  Leaves  arid  white  Fruit,  I  never  law ;  it  mufl 
have  been  in  Greece.  As  for  the  Thraciat,  Ivy,  mention'd  by  them,  we 
met  with  fome  Stocks  of  it  on  the  Borders  of  the  Black  Sea.  No  won- 
i  der  the  Bacchantes  heretofore  made  ufe  of  the  Ivy  to  adorn  their  Thyrfi 
and  Head-drefTes,  fince  all  Thrace  is  covefd  over  with  it. 


Defcription  of  the  City  of  Conffantinople.  391 

I  CAN'T  hold  from  adding  to  thefe  Plants  a  very  pretty  Flower,  Lett.  XIL 
with  which  they  garnifh'd  the  Dimes  at  our  Embaffador's  Table  :  I  had  r,  *uxv^~' 
before  feen  it  in  Portugal.     Its  Root  confifts  of  two  Tubercules,  flefhy, talis  &  Lufita. 
roundifh,  dingy  white,  full  of  a  clammy  infipid  Humour :  the  biggeft  is  maximo,  pa. 
an  inch  diameter,  the  other  is  as  it  were  wither'd,  both  are  nothing  but  kVem^oW 
hairy  Threds.     Its  Stalk  rifes  to  about  half  a  foot,  two  or  three  lines  InP-  Rei  Herb' 
thick,  wrapt  in  a  few  Leaves  alternately,  the  Sheaths  whereof  lie  on  one 
another,  and  afterwards  dilate  themfelves  into  Leaves  like  thole  of  the 
Fower-de-lys,  mining,  fleek,  vein'd,  pointed,  two  or  three  inches  long 
to  one  broad  :  they  neareft  the  Flowers  are  not  by  a  great  deal  fo  big,  but 
much  more  picked.     Thefe  Flowers  form  a  Bunch  at  the  Extremity  of 
the  Stalk  :  each  Flower  has  fix  Leaves,  five  whereof,  which  are  upright, 
make  a  kind  of  purple  Coif,  ftreak'd  ;  the  three  outward  ones  are  near 
half  an  inch  long,  the  two  inward  are  narrower  and  fhorter,  but  very 
fharp-pointed  ;  the  Under-leaf  is  biggeft  of  all,  and  is  the  Ornament  of 
the  Flower ;  for  it  gives  it  in  a  manner  the  figure  of  a  Butterfly  that's 
upon  the  wing.     This  Leaf  terminates  above  in  a  frnall  Neck  furmounted 
by  a  deep  purple  Head,  behind  it  ends  in  a  Tail  or  Spur,  whitifh,  four 
lines  long :  the  reft  is  like  a  RufF  about  an  inch  broad,  curl'd  on  the 
edges,  above  half  an  inch  high,  white,  very  prettily  ftreak'd  with  purple 
Veins.     The  Pedicule  of  the  Flower  is  four  lines  long,  to  one  and  a 
half  thick :  it  twifts  fpirally,  is  pale-green,  and  at  laft  comes  to  be  a  Cap- 
fula  like  #fmall  Lantern,  half  a  foot  long  to  three  lines  broad,  confifting 
of  ftiff"  Stalks,  which  admit  as  many  membranous  reddifh  Pannels,  whole 
lower  Surface  is  charg'd  with  a  Velvet  Band,  which  is  nothing  but  a  Down 
of  very  fmall  Seeds,  like  the  Sawings  of  Wood.     The  Flower  is  without 
fmell,  and  appears  towards  the  end  of  Afril :  the  whole  Plant  has  a  flat 
clammy  tafte. 

THERE  are  many  other  fine  forts  of  Ore  his  at  Conftantinople,  but 
can't  be  propagated  in  Gardens,  they  delighting  in  nothing  but  the  Air 
of  the  Fields.  'Tis  not  (6  with  the  RenunculufTes,  which  are  perpetually 
multiplying,  and  acquiring  new  Beauties  from  the  hands  of  the  Curious,  . 
For  fome  years  paft,  the  Turks  have  been  careful  to  cultivate  thefe 
forts  of  Flowers.  Cara  Mufiafha,  he  who  mifcarry'd  before  Viennay  is 
laid  to  have  brought  RenunculufTes  firft  in  fafhion.     This  Vifier,  to  amufe 

*  his 


392  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

his  Mailer  Mahomet  IV.  who  extremely  loved  Hunting,  Privacy,  and 
Solitude,  infenfibly  infpired  him  with  a  Fancy  for. Flowers;  and  under- 
flanding  that  the  RenuncululTes  were  what  he  was  moil  pleas'd  with,  he 
wrote  to  all  the  Baihaws  throughout  the  Empire,  to  fend  him  Roots  and 
Seeds  of  the  fineft  forts  they  could  lay  hands  on.  The  Baihaws  of  Candia, 
Cyprus,  Rhodes^  Aleppo,  Damafcus,  outdid  all  the  others  in  making  their 
court  to  him.  From  thence  came  thole  admirable  Species  of  Renuncu- 
lufles  which  are  to  be  feen  in  the  fine  Gardens  of  Conjlantinople  and  Paris. 
The  SeSds  which  were  lent  to  the  Vifier,  and  thofe  propagated  by  private 
Men,  produced  vail  Varieties.  The  EmbaiTadors  prided  themielves  in  (ending 
them  to  their  reipe&ive  Mailers  :  in  Europe  they  were  re&ify'd  by  Culture. 
M.  Malaval  contributed  not  a  little  thereto  at  Marseilles :  he  furniih'd  France 
with  'em,  and  France  all  foreign  Countries.  Except  Pinks  and  July-ilowers, 
we  have  no  fine  Flowers  but  what  originally  come  from  the  Levant.  A 
Virtuofo  of  Paris,  one  M.  Bachelier,  brought  from  thence  in  1615,  the 
firil  Indian  Cheilnut-Tree  and  double  Anemonies.  The  Tuberofes,  the 
Hyacinths,  NarciiTus,  Flower-de-lyfTes,  came  from  the  fame  Country; 
but  have  been  re&ify'd  in  our  Gardens.  There  are  Cantons  in  France 
very  proper  for  the  multiplication  of  certain  Flowers.  They  raife  in 
Normandy  double  Jonquils,  and  very  beautiful  Anemonies :  the  Ciimate 
of  Toulouze  is  extremely  agreeable  to  thefe  forts  of  Flowers.  Now  I  am 
upon  the  Topick  of  Anemonies,  there  goes  a  Story  of  a  certain  Lawyer, 
to  whom  M.  Bachelier  had  refus'd  to  communicate  the  Seed  of  ^hefe  fine 
Anemonies;  which  when  he  could  obtain  neither  for  Friendihip  nor 
Mony,  nor  by  way  of  Truck,  a  Fancy  took  him  to  go  and  vifit  M.  Ba- 
chelier, with  three  or  four  of  his  Friends  who  were  in  the  Plot :  he  or- 
der'd  his  Lacquey,  who  bore  the  Train  of  his  Gown,  to  let  it  drop  on 
fome  Pots  that  were  in  fiich  an  Alley ;  in  thefe  Pots  were  the  Anemonies 
ke  wanted,  and  their  Seed  was  ready  to  fall.  They  walk'd  a  good  while, 
and  talk'd  about  the  Times :  as  fbon  as  they  were  come  to  the  very  Spot 
of  Ground,  a  merry  Gentleman  of  the  Company  began  a  Story  which 
engaged  the  whole  Attention  of  M.  Bachelier  ;  and  at  the  fame  rime  the 
Lacquey,  who  was  no  Fool,  let  fall  his  Mailer's  Train :  the  Ai  emony- 
Secds  having  a  downy  Coat,  fluck  to  the  Gown,  which  the  L  ibou 
gather"  d  up  again,  and  die  Company  went  forward.     The  Virtuolo    (ok 

leave 


Defcription  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  393 

leave  of  M.  -Bacbelier,  and  went  his  ways  home,  where  he  carefully  pick'd  Lett.  XII. 
off  the  Seeds  which  had  ftuck  to  his  Robes ;  he  fow'd  'em  the  lame  day,  ^-*~v~^-' 
and  they  produced  very  beautiful  Flowers. 

THE  Garden  of  the  French  Palace  at  Conftantinople  is  at  prefent  well 
kept ;  it  has  a  Terrace,  from  whence  may  be  difcover'd  the  Plains  of 
JfiOj  but  there's  no  need  to  ftretch  the  View  fb  far  :  the  EmbafTador 
caufes  to  be  cultivated  within  his  own  Walls  the  fined  Orange-Trees,  Re- 
nunculufles,  Anemonies,  and  all  fuch  Flowers  as  are  beautiful  and  agree- 
able in  their  Sealbns. 

I  CAN'T  conclude  this  Letter  better,  than  by  a  Relation  of  what 
pafs'd  at  the  Audience  M.  de  Ferriol  had  of  the  Grand  Vifier,  and  at  that 
which  was  prepared  for  him  at  the  Grand  Signior's  :  a  Perlbn  of  Quality, 
who  had  the  honour  to  be  prefent  at  it,  communicated  to  me  the  follow- 
ing Account. 

THE  King's  Ships  the  Bizarre  and  the  Affeure  came  to  anchor  in  Relation  of  ^ 
the  Port  of  Conftantinople  the  eleventh  of  December  1699.  the  fame  day  ™a}.  deFer- 
the  EmbafTador  was  complimented  on  his  happy  Arrival,  by  the  Secretaries  "ftshfpdr^cee 
of  the  leveral  EmbafTadors,  and  by  Prince  Tekeli.     Next  day  his  Excellence  vifier^  &c 
landed,  and  fent  his  chief  Interpreter  to  the  Grand  Vifier,  to  notify  his 
Arrival.     Some  days  after,  this  Minifter  fent  to  compliment  him  by  Mau- 
rocordato  the  Father,  Counfellor  of  State,  and  chief  Interpreter   to  the 
Forte :  the  Audience  was  fix'd  for  the  25  th  of  December.     That  day  being 
come,  M,  de  Chute auneuf  Caftagnieres,  the  former  EmbafTador,  and  M.  de 
Ferriol,    departed  from  the  French  Palace   half  an   hour  after  Twelve. 
M.  de  Chateauneuf  on  the  right,  and  the  new  EmbafTador  on  the  left,  pre- 
ceded by  their  Houfhold,   and  follow'd  by  a  dozen  Gentlemen  who  had 
waited  on  M.  de  Ferriol   to  Constantinople ;  all  of  the  French  Nation  at- 
tended them.     The  March  was  perform'd  very  orderly  to  the  Sea-fide, 
where  the  two  EmbafTadors,  who  alone  rode  on  horfeback,  alighted,  and 
were  receiv'd  by  fixty  Officers  belonging  to  the  Sea,  who  embark'd  with 
all  the  reft  for  Conftantinople  on  Caicks  prepared  for  them.     When  the 
EmbafTadors  pafs'd  by  the  King's  Ships,  they  were  faluted  with  21  Shot 
from  each  Ship. 

THE  Grand  Vifier  had  fent  two  Horfes  richly  harnefs'd  for  the  Em- 
bafTadors, and  threefcore  for  the  Gentlemen,  Officers,  Guards-Marine, 
VoL  I.  E  e  e  and 


394-  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

and  the  Retinue  of  M.  de  Ferriol :  this  number  had  not  been  fiifficient  for 
fo  great  a  Train,  but  his  Excellence  had  caus'd  to  be  brought  above  fifty 
to  the  Port,  and  all  the  French  Merchants  had  fent  theirs.  The  Caval- 
cade began  with  fourfcore  Janizaries,  whom  the  Grand  Vifier  had  order'd 
to  the  Key  ;  then  follow'd  the  Domeflicks  of  the  Embafladors,  that  of 
3VL  de  Chuteaaneuf  on  the  right,  and  that  of  M.  de  Ferriol  on  the  left.. 
M.  de  FerrioPs  twenty  five  Footmen  were  cloth'd  in  Liveries  trebly  laced, 
rhe  middle  gold,  the  other  filk.  Half  a  dozen  Janizaries  belonging 
to  M.  de  Chateauneuf,  and  as  many  to  M.  de  Ferriol,  walk'd  with  their 
Caps  of  Ceremony  before  the  Druggermans.  A  dozen  Gentlemen* 
and  the  Chancellor  of  M.  de  Ferriol,  preceded  the  Embafladors :  thefe 
Gentlemen  were  fb  magnificently  habited,  that  the  Turks  confefs'd  they 
never  faw  any  thing  like  it,  The  Chiaoux  Bachi,  who  came  to  receive 
his  Excellency,  march'd  immediately  before  the  Embafladors  ;  and  Met 
fieurs  de  Cour  and  de  Broglio,  Captains  of  the  King's  Ships,  follow'd  at 
the  head  of  the  Officers  and  Guard-Marine,  who  march'd  two  and  two, 
according  to  their  Rank.  The  French  Merchants  clos'd  the  whole,  in 
the  fame  order.  The  Company  was  fo  numerous,  there  was  hardly  room 
enough  for  'em  in  both  Courts  of  the  Vifier ;  yet  was  every  thing  fb  or- 
derly, that  when  the  Embafladors  enter'd,  the  Janizaries  and  the  ChiaouX: 
made  a  Lane  for  them  to  pais.  The  twelve  Gentlemen,  with  M.  de  Fer- 
rioPs Chancellor,  were  alighted  from  their  Horfes,  to  expect  the  Embafla- 
dors at  the  bottom  of  the  Stair-cafe :  they  follow'd  into  the  Audience- 
Chamber,  as  did  alio  the  Sea-Officers.  The  Embafladors  took  their 
Seats  on  low  Stools  which  were  placed  on  the  Sopha,  M.  de  Chateauneuf 
on  the  right,  and  M.  de  Ferriol  on  the  left:  all  the  reft  Handing. 

THE  Grand  Vifier,  with  his  Cap  of  Ceremony,  came  in  as  fbon  as 
the  Embafladors  were  placed ;  and  fat  him  down  at  a  corner  of  the  So- 
pha, which  is  the  Place  of  Honour.  M.  de  Chateauneuf  fpoke  firfl,  tel- 
ling the  Vifier  that  the  King  had  chofen  M.  de  Ferriol  to  lucceed  him : 
then  M.  de  Ferriol  prefented  him  a  Letter  from  his  Majelty,  which  he  put 
in  the  hands  of  the  chief  Chancellor,  who  was  Handing  at  the  Vifier's 
elbow,,  together  with  the  chief  Officers  of  the  Empire.  M.  de  Ferriol 
■oausM  that  Minifter  to  be  told.  That  the  King  his  Mailer  had  with 
oleafure  heard  that  his  Highuefs  had  committed  the  principal  Affairs  of 

■fe  the . 


Defcription  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  095 

the  Empire  to  a  Perfon  of  his  Underftanding,  and  that  he  made  no  Lett,  XII. 
doubt  but  he  would  contribute  his  utmoft  to  maintain  the  Union  and  ^"V5*-* 
Correipondence,  which  had  been  fb  long  fettled  between  the  two  Em- 
pires.    After  this  Compliment,  they  brought  in  fome  Sweetmeats,  and  a 
couple  of  Difhes  of  Coffee  for  the  EmbafTadors  ;  and  then  prelented  the 
Sherbet  and  Perfume.   The  Vifier  caus'd  M.  de  FerrioL  to  be  ask'd  how  long 
'twas  fince  he  left  France :  Maurocordato  reported  in  Latin  to  M.  de  Fer- 
riol what  it  was  the  Vifier  ask'd  him ;  M.  de  Ferriol  anfwer'd  in  the  fame 
Tongue.     Then  they  diitributed  very  rich  Vefts  to  M.  de  Ferriol  and 
M.  de  Chateauneuf :  thofe  which  were  given  to  the  Officers  of  their  Re- 
tinue were  worth  five  or  fix  Sequins  apiece.     After  this  Diftribution,  the 
EmbafTadors  rofe  from  their  Seats,  and  went  out  of  the  Chamber  of  Au- 
dience :  they  were  follow'd  in  an  orderly  manner,  and  when  they  got  on 
horfeback  M.  de  Ferriol  took  the  right,  as  did  his  Houfhold  ;  M.  de  Cha- 
teauneuf put  himfelf  on  the  left  with  his :  the  reft  of  the  Train  obferv'd 
the  lame  Order  as  in  coming.    The  Streets  were  crouded  with  Specta- 
tors.    The  EmbafTadors  re-embark'd,  after  M.  de  Ferriol  had  thank'd  the 
Lieutenant  of  the  '  Chiaoux  Bachi  for  accompanying  him  with  his  Chiaoux. .  Thechiaoax~ 
The  EmbafTadors  Canoe  was  faluted  by  the  Ships  as  before  :  And  when  Bachi  comes 
they  landed,  they  proceeded  in  the  fame  Order  to  their  Palace,  and  took  mm  the  nm- 
leave  of  each  other  in  the  firft  Court.     Next  day  M.  de  Ferriol  forted  £fi*5£i 
his  Prefents  to  be  fent  on  the  morrow  to  the  Grand  Vifier  :  there  was  a  l'"ck  hf  deff" 

bis  Lieutenant 

very  large  and  richly-ornamented  Glafs ;  a  great  Pendulum,  with  the  *°  accompany 
Dial-plate  mark'd  in  the  Turkijb  manner :  the  reft  confifted  of  Veils,  a 
dozen  whereof  were  made  of  the  fineft  Stuffs  of  Gold  and  Silver  that 
are  wrought  at  Lyons,  the  other  of  the  fineft  Englifh  Cloth. 

THE  3 1  ft  of  December  the  Grand  Signior  caus'd  the  EmbafTador  to  be 
acquainted  he  fhould  have  Audience  the  fifth  of  'January.  M.  de  Ferriol 
diipos'd  himfelf  for  it,  and  the  night  before  fent  to  the  Seraglio  the 
Prefents  defign'd  for  the  Grand  Signior :  they  are  ufually  carry'd  before 
the  EmbafTador  when  he  is  going  into  the  Audience-Room. 

THE  fifth  of  January  1700,  M.de  Ferriol  by  break  of  Day  fet  out 
from  his  Palace,  preceded  by  his  Houfhold,  accompany'd  by  twelve 
Gentlemen  of  his  Retinue,  and  all  thofe  of  the  French  Nation.  At  the 
Strand  he  found  the  two  Commandants  of  the  King's  Ships,  and  thirty 

E  c  e  2  Officers 


em. 


gp6  A  Votage  into  the  Levant. 

Officers  or  Guards-Marine,  named  by  M.  Bidaud  to  "attend  him.  The 
EmbafTador  embark'd  on  his  Canoe,  and  was  fbllow'd.  by  the  whole 
Company  in  feveral  Caicks.  The  Chiaoux  Bachi  waited  for  his  Excellent 
cy  on  the  Wharf  towards  Confront  i#ople,  with  the  Janizaries  of  the  Port, 
and  fixty  of  the  Grand  Signior's  Horfes;  that  defign'd  for  the  EmbafTa- 
dor was  richly  harnefs'd.  The  March  began  by  fix  Janizaries  of  his  Ex- 
cellency's Family,  as  many  Valets  de  Chambre,  twenty  five  Footmen  in 
Liveries,  and  half  a  dozen  Eftafiers  in  Turkijb  Habits  marching  before 
and  about  his  Horle :  the  Drogmans  or  Interpreters  came  after  his  Do- 
mefticks,  and  next  to  them  the  twelve  Gentlemen.  The  Chiaoux  Bachi, 
preceded  by  his  Chiaoux,  went  immediately  before  M.  de  Ferriol,  becaufe 
when  he  was  about  to  take  the  right  hand,  his  Excellency  bid  hinv  go  to 
the  left,  unlefs  he  would  rather  walk  before  ;  which  was  what  he  chofe 
to  do.  The  EmbafTador  was  foUowrd  by  the  Officers  of  the  Marine, 
walking  two  and  two  according  to  their  Rank :  all  of  the  French  Nation 
did  the  like.  They  pafs'd  the  firft  Court  of  the  Seraglio  on  horfeback  ; 
but  had  notice  given  to  diimount  at  the  Gate  of  the  fecond.  His  Excel- 
lency alighting  from  his  Horfe,  was  receiv'd  by  eight  Capigis,  which  led 
the  way  to  the  Hall  of  the  Divan. 

A  T  the   Entrance  of  the  fecond  Court,  4000  Janizaries  j  who  were 
erouded  up  to  the  Wall  on  the  right,,  on  a  fudden  fcamper'd  away,  to  go 
leizethe  Pots  of  Rice  which  were  placed  for  them  at  lbme  diftance  ofT. 
His  Excellence  enter'd  the  Hall  of  the  Divan  at  the  lame  time  that  the 
Grand  Vifier  did  the  like  by  another  Door.-    After  mutual  Salutation  he 
lat  him  down  on  the  place  that  was  prepared  for  him,  arid  the  Grand 
Vifier  on  a  Bench,  with  three  Vifiers  at  his  right  hand,  and  the  two  Cadi- 
lefquers  at  his  left.     Some  Caufes  were  firft  heard,  and  Petitions  dif- 
patch'd  ;    after  which  they  brought  Water  to  the  EmbafTador  to  warn 
with,  as  likewife  to  the  Grand  Vifier,  but  in  different  Bafbns ;  that  pre- 
fented  to  his  Excellency  was  of  Silver,  the  other  Copper^    Water  was 
alfo  cany'd  to  the  Vifiers,  Captains  of  the  King's  Ships,  and  all  thofe 
that  were  to  dine  at  the  five  Tables  fpread  in  the  fameHalL    None  but 
the  EmbafTador  ate  with  the  Grand  Vifier,  the  Captains  of  Ships  with  the 
Vifier c,  the  two  Cadilefquers  ate  alone,  and  fix  Petfons  named  by  his  Excel- 
lence at  t\\  o  other  Tables  with  the  principal  Officers  of  the  Empire.    The 
1  five 


Defcription  of  tie  City  of  Conftantinople.  397 

five  Tables  were  ferv'd  alike  with  upwards  of  thirty  Dilhes  each,  which  Lett.XIE. 
were  brought  in  one  after  another,  and  taken  away  again  almoft  as  foon.      *S~V^ 

T  H  O  the  Turkiflj  Dilhes  are  very  different  from  ours ;  his  Excellency, 
in  refpecl:  to  the  place,  neglected  not  to  tafte  of  every  thing  :  after  dinner, 
Water  was  again  brought  to  wafh  with. 

MJVROCORDJTO  the  Father,  and  the  Sieur  Fonton  chief  DrugT 
german  to  the  King,  ferv'd  as  Interpreters  all  dinner-time.  There  was  a 
grated  Window  over  the  Embaflador's  Table,  at  which  his  Excellency 
perceiv'd  the  Grand  Signior  now  and  then  taking  a  look.  Orders  being 
now  brought  for  admitting  the  EmbaiTador,  there  was  brought  into  the 
Hall  of  the  Divan  a  Looking-glafs,  which  his  Excellency  was  to  give  his 
Highnefs;  the  Glals  was  89  inches  deep  to  62  wide  :  all  the  Company 
were  furpriz'd  at  it,  and  the  Grand  Signior  ey'd-  it  through  the  Grate 
where  he  ufually  is  during  the  holding  of  the  Divans  The  Looking- 
glais  was  brought  to  the  Door  of  the  Hall  of  Audience,  together  with 
a  Pendulum  far  exceeding  that  presented  to  the  Grand  Vifier,  as  likewife 
an  admirable  Piece  of  Clock-work,  which,  befides  the  Hours  and  Mi- 
nutes, exhibited  the  Motion  of  the  Moon,  the  Degrees  of  Cold  and 
Heat,  and  the  Variations  of  the.  Seafbns.  More  than  this,  there  were 
twenty  Vefts  of  very  rich  gold  Stuff's,  and  a  world  of  other  Verts  made 
of  the  fined  Etiglifb  Cloth.  The  Prefent  appear'd  fb  magnificent,,  that 
the  Grand  Vifier  caus'd  the  EmbaiTador  to  be  ask'd  whether  it  was  the 
King's  or  his  own  :  he  reply'd,  it  was  a  Prefent  from  himfelf. 

THE  Grand  Vifier  wrote  to  his  Highnefs,  to  know  if  they  ihould  in- 
troduce the   EmbaiTador :  the  Telkidgt,  who  carry'd  the  Letter,  brought  TeikMo,-  ;s  an. 
back  the  Grand  Signior's  Anfwcr  in  writing,  which  having  firft  kifs'd  and  MrrieslhTuf 
mov'd  to  his  Forehead,  he  caus'd  to  be  read  :  which  done,  the  proper  Uri  *>hkh 
Officers  led  his  Excellency  to  a  certain  place  of  the  Court,  where  they  *ht  p,i>»e  vi- 
diftributed  threefcore  and  ten  Veils  among  his  Retinue  ;  the  EmbaiTador  JGr<mdt^nkr. 
receiv'd  him  fitting  on  a  Bench  cover'd  with  Icarlet  Cloth.     Hitherto 
every  thing  was  done  according  to  the  Rules,  and  his  Excellency  could 
not  but  be  highly  delighted  with  the  Honours  he  had  receiv'd  ;  but  as 
they  were  moving  into  the   Grand  Signior's  Apartment,    the  Chiaoux 
Bachi,  who  was  galPd  at  the  EmbalTador's  refufing  him  the  right  hand  in 
the  March,  went  and  infoxm'd  MaurocordatOy  who  was  at  his  Excellency's 

dbow, 


A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

elbow,  that  he  perceiv'd  the  Embaflador  had  his  Sword  on,  and  that  none 
were  lufter'd  to  enter  the  Grand  Signior's  Chamber  arm'd.     Maarocordato 
was  for  conniving  at  it,  the   rather  for  that  the  EmbalTador's   Sword 
was  cover'd  with  his  '  Caftan  :  but  the  Chiaoux  Bachi  threatning  to  ac- 
quaint the  Grand  Vifier,  he  could  not  avoid  ipeaking  to  his  Exceliency,  and 
told  him,  with  fome reluctance  apparent  in  his  Vifage,  that  he  could  not  fee 
the  Grand  Signior  with  any  Weapon  about  him,  and  therefore  begg'd  he 
would  lay  afide  his  Sword,  which  the  Chiaoux  Bachi  had  juft  now  hap- 
pen'd  to  call  his  eye  on.  The  Embaflador  reply'd,  That  in  wearing  a  Sword 
he  did  no  more  than  had  been  praclis'd  by  M.  de  Chateauneuf-,  and  that  the 
Sword  being  part  of  a  Frenchman's  Habiliment,  nay  the  chief  part,  he 
would  not  relinquish  it.     This  Dilpute  was  carry'd  to  the  Grand  Vifier, 
who  was  flill  in  the  Hall :  he  lent  word  to  the  Embaflador,  that  he  mull- 
not  lee  the  Grand  Signior  with  a  Weapon  about  him.     His  Excellency 
again  quoted  the  Example  of  M.  de  Chateauneuf,  and  laid  it  did  not  be- 
come him  to  behold  Co  great  a  Prince  as  his  Highnefs,  without  having 
on  every  Ornament  the  French  Habit  confifls  of.     The  Conteft  lafted  a 
lull  hour,  Maurocordato  carrying  the  MelTages  to   and  fro :   at  laft  the 
Grand  Vifier  propos'd  to  the  Embaflador,  that  if  he  would  quit  his  Sword 
the  Grand  Signior  would  write  a  Letter  to  the  King  in  his  excule.     His 
Excellency  anfwer'd,  there'  needed  no  Excuie,^4or  he  would  not  commit 
the  Fault.     The  Grand  Vifier  reply'd,    he  would  give  an  Atteflation 
fign'd  by  himfelf  and  all  the  Grandees  of  the  Empire,  by  way  of  Aflu- 
ranee  that  no  EmbalTador  whatever  for  the  future  Ihould  lee  the  Grand 
Signior  with  Arms  about  him.     The  Embaflador  reply'd,  that  the  Porte 
might  alter  its  Ceremoniale  for  time  to  come,  that  then  it  would  be  the 
Affair  of  his  Succeflbrs,  and  of  all  the  other  Nations  ;  but  that  they 
fhould  not  begin  with  him  to  take  from  EmbalTadors  the  Honours  they 
were  in  polTeflion  of;  and  that  he  having  the  honour  to  be  the  chief  of 
Chriftian  Embafladors,  if  he  were  to  give  any  Rules,  it  Ihould  be  to  en- 
large their  Privileges  inftead  of  yielding  to  have  'em  diminilh'd.     The 
Grand  Vifier  caus'd  his   Excellency  to  be  told,  that  if  he  perfifted  to 
keep  his  Sword,  he  mull  not  lee  the  Grand  Signior,  who  was  come  fif- 
teen Leagues  off^  on  purpole  to  give  him  Audience.     The  Embaflador 
made  anlwer,  he  Ihould  count  it  a  very  great  Misfortune ;  but  as  s^reat 


T>efcription  of  the  City  of  Conitantinople.  399 

a  Felicity  as  it  was  to  fee  his  Highnefs,  be  would  not  purchafe  it  at  the  Lett.  XII.. 
price  of  the  King  his  Mailer's  Glory,  nor  by  proflituting  the  Character  he  l-c?^v^>-> 
was  honour'd  with.     The  Grand  Vifter  added,  that  no   EmbalTador  ever 
faw  the  Grand  Signior  with  Arms  about  'em.     His  Excellency  repiy'd, 
that  M.  de  Chatenuaeuf  was  a  Man  of  Honour,  and  that  he  would  not 
prelume  to  impoie  on  the  King  his  Mailer  ;  that  he  was  Hill  in  Conftmti- 
nople,  and  might  be  call'd  to  teflify  the  truth ;  that  he  was  furpriz'd  they 
ihould  pick  fuch  a  quarrel  with  him,  but  proteiled  he  would  foonerparr 
with  his  Life  than  his  Sword.     Maurocordato  not  knowing  what  to  do, 
defir'd  M.de  Ferriol  to  take  counfel  of  the  French  Officers.     His  Excel- 
lency anfwcr'd,  that  in  fuch  things  as  concern'd  the  Glory  of  the  King 
his  Mailer,  he  was  the  fole  Interpreter  of  his  Will.     Maurocordato  went 
again  to  the  Grand  Vifier,  and  returning  to  the  EmbalTador,  told  him  he 
would  kindle  a  Fire  that  would  not  be  eafily  extinguifli'd,  and  that  he. 
would  be  the  caufe  of  ibme  great  misfortune.     So  much  the  worle  for  the 
Weakefl,  reply'd  M.de  Ferriol;  yet  I  fhall  not  relinquilh  my  Sword  but 
with  my  Life,  the  Honour  of  my  Character  being  faften'd  to  it.     Then 
the  Grand  Vifier  lent  the  oldefl  of  the  Capigis-Bachis  to  tell  the  Embaf- 
iador,  that  it  was  attempting  an  Innovation  in  the  Ceremouiale,  and  that 
they  could  allure  him  they  never  had  feen  any  EmbalTador  take  Audience. 
of  the  Grand  Signior   with  his  Sword  on.     M.  de  Ferriol  reply'd,  that . 
M.  de Cbateauneuf  was  at  leafl  as  worthy  to  be  believ'd  as  they..   The. 
Janizary-Aga  came  afterwards  with  the  principal  Officers  of  his  Corps,  to 
allure  the  EmbalTador  that  tho  he  was  a  General  Officer  of  the  chief." 
Militia  of  the  Empire,  he  never  enter'd  arm'd  into  the  Grand  Signior's 
Chamber ;  no,  not  the  Grand  Vifier  himfelf,  tho  his  Highnefs's  Lieute- 
nant.    M.  de  Ferriol  reply'd,  that  the  Grand  Vifier  and  he  were  Subjects, , 
and  fo  the  Law  was  made  for  them ;  but  as  for  himfelf,  having  the  ho- 
nour to  reprelent  the  Perlbn  of  a  great  Prince,  he  was  not  in  the  lame- 
llate of  Dependauce.     The  two  Cadilefquers  came  in  their  turn,  and  after 
them  the  Vifiers  of  three  Horfe-Tails,  and  all  the  Officers  of  the  Pcrte, 
to  try  if  they  could  prevail  on  the  EmbalTador,  but  he  was  immovable. 
The  Grand  Vifier,  who  was  inform'd  of  all  that  pafs'd,  fancy'd  he  could 
by  Stratagem  obtain  what  he  was  not  able  to   compafs  by  Argument : 
He  therefore  fent  to  let  the  EmbalTador  know  it  was  high  time  for  him 

to-.) 


aoo  A  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

to  go  take  his  Audience.     The  Embaflador  ask'd  whether  it  fliould  be 
v\  ith  his  Sword  on  :  they  anfwer'd,  yes.     So  on  he  march'd,  and  being 
come  to  the  door  of  the  Grand  Signior's  Apartment,  he  turn'd  his  head 
to  look  for  the  fifteen  Perfons  he  had  named  to  follow  him  into  his  High* 
neis's  Chamber,  to  pay  their  Obeifance  according  to  Cuftom.     To  his 
great  fiirprize  he  law  but  fix ;  the  Chiaoux  and  the  Capigis-Bachis  had 
ftopt  the  reft  at  the  door  of  the  great  Arch  leading  to  the  Audience- 
Hall.     The  Embaflador  then  began  to  fufpecl:  they  had  fome  defign  upon 
Jiim ;  fo,  being  deterrnin'd  to  lofe  his  Life  in  maintenance  of  what  he 
-had  faid  and  done,  he  clapt  his  left  hand  on  his  Sword,  holding  in  his 
light  the  King's  Letter  to  the  Grand  Signior  :  two  Capigis  Bachis  took 
him  under  the  Arm,  as  is  the  cuftom ;  mean  while  up  comes  a  third,  of  a 
gigantick  ftature,  who  {looping  down,  laid  violent  hold  of  the  Embafla- 
dor's  Sword  to  force  it  from  him  ;  but  hot  being  able  to  do  it,  the  Em- 
-baflador  enraged  gave  him  fuch  a  Salute  with  his  Right-hand  and  Knee, 
that  he  threw  him  four  paces  off;  and  then  call'd  out  to  M-a:irocordatot 
Is  it  thus  you  violate  the  Law  of  Nations  ?     After  which,  feeing  the  Ca- 
pigi  Bachi,  whom  lie  had  fpurn'd,  making  towards  him  again,  he  by  main 
force  broke  from  the  two  other  Capigis  Bachis,  who  ftill  had  him  by  the 
Arm;  and  then  half  drawing  his  Sword,  he  ask'd  Maurocordato  aloud, 
Are  ne  Emmies  or  how  ?    Maurocordato  feem'd  perfectly  aftonifh'd,  and 
had  not  a  word  to  fay.     M.  de  Ferricl  made  no  doubt  but  things  would 
be  carry'd  to  the  laft  extremity  ;  but  in  that  moment  appear'd  at  the 
door  of  the  Grand  Signior's  Apartment,  the  Capi-Aga  or  chief  of  the 
white  Eunuchs,  who  making  a.  fign  with  his  Hand  not  to  commit  any 
violence  upon  the  Embaflador,  drew  near  him,  and  faid  that  if  he  would 
enter  without  his  Sword,  he  fhould  be  welcome ;  but  that  if  he  perfifted 
to  wear  it,  he  might  return  back  to  his  Palace.     M.  de  Ferriol  reply'd, 
he  neither  could  nor  would  part  with  his  Sword,  and  fo  went  his  ways, 
leaving  his  Caftan  at  the  door,  and  order'd  all  thofe  of  his  Retinue  to 
do  the  like  ;  which  they  did,  putting  them  into  the  hands  of  an  Officer 
of  the  Grand  Signior's:  this  pafs'd  without  giving  any  Subject  of  Com- 
plaint. 

T  H  E  Embaflador  being  got  near  the  great  Gate,  the  Grand  Vifier 
fent  word  to  the  Sieur  Fonton  to  come  and  take  back  the  Prefents  his 

.*  Excel- 


Defrription  of  the  City  of  Conftantinople.  401 

Excellency  had  brought :"  which  was  accordingly  done.  M.  de  Ferriol Lett.  XII. 
behev'd  there  would  be  no  Ceremony  in  his  Return;  but  yet  he  found 
the  Grand  Signior's  Hories,  the  Chiaoux  and  the  Janizaries,  who  accoin- 
pany'd  him  to  the  Sea-fide,  in  the  fame  Order  as  had  been  obfei  v'd  in 
going  to  the  Seraglio.  There  were  infinite  Swarms  of  People  in  the 
Streets  and  at  the  "Windows,  every  body  being  psrfuaded  the  Embaffador 
had  taken  his  Audience  ;  and  when  he  arrived  at  the  Sea  fide,  he  put 
himfelf  into  his  Canoe,  which  as  it  pafs'd  by  the  King's  Ships  was  faluted 
with  42  Carmorr-fhot.  M.  de  Ferriol  being  return'd  to  his  Palace,  caus'd 
feveral  Tables  to  be-  fpread  for  the  King's  Officers,  and  all  of  the  French 
Nation,  whom  he  treated  with  exceeding  magnificence. 

IT  mult  nor  be  forgot,  thitMaurocordato  affected  all  along  to  hold  in 
hugger-mugger  the  Negotiation  of  the  Sword,  and  therefore  talk'd  to 
M.  de  Ferriol  in  Whiipers ;  but  as  it  was  an  Affair  of  Ufage  and  Juftice, 
the  EmbafTador  continually  anfwer'd  aloud,  to  the  end  that  the  feveral 
Foreigners  who  were  prefent  out  of  curiofity,  might  hear  what  pafs'd. 

'TWAS  known  fome  days  afterwards,  that  the  Grand  Sign ior  chid 
the  Grand' Vrfi erTor  exr3ofing  'him  to  lb  dflagreeable  a  Scene ;  telling  him» 
he  might  have  forefeen  it.  The  laft:  Action  of  the  Grand  Vifier  was  ge- 
nerally condemn' d,  for  going  to  circumvent  the  EmbafTador,  and  take  his 
Sword  from  him  by  foul  means :  the  Turks  themfelves  could  not  but  cry 
fliame  on  it.  M.  de  FerrioPs  Prefence  of  Mind  in  all  his  Anfwers,  and 
his  firm  Refoiution,  were  admired  by  all  that  were  WitnefTes  thereof. 

IT  may  not.  be  amiJs  here  to  obfepve  to  our  Merchants,  how  advan- 
tageous it  is  to  *em,  to  navC  at  Conjlantinofle,  in  the  Perfon  of  the  Em- 
bafTador, a  natural  Judge,  and  one  not  to  be  appeal'd  from,  in  all  Civil 
and  Criminal  Cafes  that  may  happen  among  'em. 

BY  the  24th  and  43d  Articles  -of  a  Treaty  made  May  26.  1604.  be- 
tween Henry  the  Great  and  Sultan  Acbmet  I.  Emperor  of  the  Turks,  it 
was  ftipulated,  That  the  EmbaiTadors  and  Confuls  of  our  Nation  fhould 
diftribute  Juftice  to  iuch  Merchants  and  Tradersas  were  his  Majefly's  Sub- 
jects, according  to;  their  own  Laws  and  Cuftoms,  without  the  Cognizance 
of  any  Turkijb  Officer  whatever.  Upon  which,  as  I  have  been  inform'd, 
in  1673  there  being  a  Suit  between  the  Sicur  Fabre  and  the  SiexxxsGleyfe 
of  Marseilles,  it  was  determin'd  by  a  definitive  Sentence  of  M.  de  Noi»tel, 
Vol.I.  Fff  then 


I 


402  /  Voyage  into  the  Levant. 

then  EmbafTador  at  the  Porte :  but  the  Sieurs  Gleyfe  pretending  to  get 
this  Decree  revers'd  in  the  Courts  of  Provence,  it  was  on  the  contrary 
confirm'd  by  an  Arret  of  Council  from  above,  dated  Sept.  1.  167  j.  in 
the  following  Terms. 

Extract   cf  the  %egifters  of  the  Council  of  State. 

<  Hp  H  E  King  in  Council  confirms  the  Judgments  pafs'd  by  the  Sieur 
1  de  Nointel,    the  4th  of  December  1671.  the  2d  &  18th  of  July 

1  1672.  Orders  the  fame  to  be  executed  according  to  their  Form  and 
'  Tenour ;  and  in  confequence,  his  Majefty  has  made  void  and  of  no 
'  effect  the  Judgment  given  by  the  Lieutenant  of  the  Admiralty  of  Mar- 
1  feilles  the  1 2th  of  November  lad,  and  every  thing   that  follow'd  there- 

*  upon :  forbidding  him  to  take  any  Cognizance  of  the  Difpute  between 

*  the  faid  Gleyfe  and  Fabre  ;  nor  are  the  faid  Gleyfe  to  make  any  further 

*  or  other  Proceedings  on  the  faid  account,  upon  pain  of  3000  Livres 
1  Forfeiture,  befides  Cods  and  Damages.     Done  in  the  King's  Council  of 

*  State,  held  ztBriftc  the  firftDay  o£  September  1673.  Collated.  Signed 
'  Colbert.    VtraCopia,  Lauthier.' 

1  am,  My  Lord,  &c. 


The  End  of  the  Firfi  Volume. 


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