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A   VOYAGE     ROUND    THE    WORLD: 

WITH    A 

HISTORY    OF 

THE 

OREGON     MISSION: 

AND    NOTKS    OF 

SEVERAL    YEARS    RESIDENCE    ON    THE    PLAINS, 

BORDERING    THE    PACIFIC    OCEAN.* 
COMPRISING     AN     ACCOUNT     OF     INTERESTING 

ADVENTURES  AMONG  THE  INDIANS 

WEST  OF  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 

TO    WHICH    IS    APPENDED    A    FDLL 

DESCRIPTION  OF  OREGON  TERRITORY, 

ITS  GEOGRAPHY,  HISTORY,  AND  RELIGION; 

DESIGNED    FOR    THE 

BENEFIT    OF  EMIGRANTS  TO  THAT  RISING   COUNTRY. 


BY  REV.  GUSTAVUS  piNES, 

LATE   MISSIONARY    OF    THE   METHODIST    EPISCOPAl'cHURCH,    TO    OREGON, 


BUFFALO : 
GEORGE  H.  DERBY  AND  CO. 


1850. 


m 


*2 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1850,  by 

GUSTAVUS    HINES, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  for  the  Northern  District  of  New  York. 


^ 


II 


JEWETT,  THOMAS  &  CO., 

STEREOTYPERS  AND  PRINTERS, 

BUFFALO,  N.   Y. 


PREFACE. 


^ 


If  this  volume  does  not  commeud  itself  to  the  favorable  considerations 
of  the  reading  public,  it  will  not  be  owing  to  any  deficiency  of  material 
in  the  possession  of  the  author,  to  enable  him  to  furnish  a  most  interesting 
and  instructive  work.  Though  his  opportunities  for  the  acquirement  of 
that  kind  of  knowledge  resulting  from  observation,  and  necessary  to  qualify 
one  to  instruct  and  entertain  mankind,  during  seven  years  of  constant 
journeyings  in  various  parts  of  the  world,  both  by  sea  and  land,  have  been 
perhaps  greater  than  usually  falls  to  the  lot  of  even  authors  of  books  of 
travel,  yet,  conscious  of  his  want  of  the  requisite  qualifications  to  array 
his  work  in  that  fascinating  drapery  necessary  to  charm  the  reader  at  once 
into  an  unqualified  approval,  the  author  casts  himself  upon  the  public 
with  all  due  deference. 

The  principal  apology  necessary  to  offer  for  the  publication  of  this  work, 
rs  a  desire  to  connect  with  entertainment  the  promotion  of  a  more  extensive 
and  particular  knowledge  of  those  interesting  portions  of  the  world  where 
it  has  been  the  privilege  of  the  author  to  travel,  and  make  his  observations. 

While  the  world  is  literally  teeming  with  fictitious  publications,  here  is 
presented  a  volume  of  facts,  for  the  most  of  which  the  author  is  alono 
responsible  ;  and  in  the  absence  of  the  tinsel  adorning  of  a  glowing  and 
high-sounding  style,  the  truthfulness  of  what  is  narrated  ia  the  principal 
merit  to  which  the  work  is  entitled. 

The  "  History  of  the  Oregon  Mission,  "  to  which  the  first  chapter  of 
the  work  is  devoted,  heis  been  drawn  from  the  most  reliable  sources,  and, 
principally  from  the  short  notes  of  the  late  Rev.  Jason  Lee,  and  the 
Journal  of  the  late  Cyrus  Shepherd,  the  first  missionary  teacher  in 
Oregon. 

This  part,  the  author  flatters  himself,  will  supply  the  Christian  public 
with  a  needful  desideratum,  with  respect  to  the  true  character  of  that 
important  Mission,  and  of  the  courageous  and  self-denying  men  who  were 
the  first  to  carry  the  Gospel  across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  to  proclaim 
it  along  the  shores  of  the  Pai  ific  Ocean. 

The  Journal,  commencing  with  the  departure  of  the  Missionaries  in 
the   Ship  Lausanne  in  the  fall  of  1839,  will   introduce  the  reader  to  all 


IV  PREFACE. 

that  is  interesting  relating  to  the  largest  expedition  of  the  kind  that  ever 
sailed  from  an  American  port.  It  will  acquaint  him  with  "  Life  on  the 
Ocean  Wave,"  and  the  different  interesting  phenomena  of  the  great  deep. 
It  will  introduce  to  him  the  people  of  other  countries,  and  give  him 
information  with  respect  to  many  of  their  customs.  It  will  present  him 
with  a  glimpse  of  oriental  scenery,  and  occasionally  unfold  the  beauties 
and  sublimitieB  of  the  mountain  landscape.  It  will  conduct  him  through 
perils  by  sea  and  perils  by  laud,  and  perils  among  the  most  savage,  de- 
graded and  treacherous  of  the  human  race. 

The  Atlantic,  the  Pacific,  and  the  Indian  Oceans  ;  Brazil,  Chili,  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  Oregon,  China,  the  Spanish  Islands,  and  even  Africa 
herself,  have  all  been  laid  under  contribution  to  enrich  the  Journal ;  and 
from  these  different  fields  of  observation  have  been  collected  facts,  circum- 
stances, and  incidents  of  histor}%  which  cannot  fail  to  enlist  the  attention 
and  excite  the  interest  of  the  reader,  and  to  induce  him  to  pursue  the 
narrative,  until,  with  the  author,  he  shall  have  circumnavigated  the  globe. 

The  last  few  Chapters  of  the  book  are  devoted  exclusively  to  the 
Geography  and  History  of  the  Oregon  Territory.  From  a  residence  of 
several  years  in  Oregon,  connected  with  the  fact  that  he  made  it  a  leading 
object  to  become  informed  from  personal  observation,  not  only  with  the 
geography  of  the  country,  with  its  productions ;  the  soil,  climate,  seasons, 
mountains,  valleys,  prairies,  forests,  rivers,  &c. ;  but  also  willi  every 
circumstance  of  importance  which  has  ever  transpired  in  connection  with 
either  the  civil,  political  or  religious  interests  of  the  country,  the  author 
believes  himself  to  be  qualified  to  present  the  inquiring  public  with  more 
correct  information  regarding  that  portion  of  the  world,  than  has  hitherto 
been  furnished  from  any  source.  For  some  of  the  facts  connected  with 
the  History  of  Oregon,  the  author  would  acknowledge  his  indebtedness  to 
the  able  and  interesting  Memoirs  of  Mr.  Greenhow,  the  recent  translator 
and  librarian  of  the  department  of  State,  at  Washington. 

With  these  remarks,  conscious  of  the  uprightness  of  his  intentions,  the 
author  would  now  place  his  offering  upon  the  public  altar  ;  counting  no 
other  favor  in  its  behalf  than  that  to  which  the  merit  of  his  performance  is 
justly  entitled. 


INDEX, 


Assistant  Missionaries— arrival 24 

Alarming  Phenomena 51 

Adventures  at  Valparaiso 70 

Affray  at  Sea 75 

Anniversary  of  landing  at  Oahu 81 

Astoria,  site  of 89 

Arrival  at  Mission 92 

Arrival  at  "  La  Butte," 127 

Affecting  History 186 

Arrival  at  Maui 201 

Arrival  at  Hong  Kong 262 

Arrival  at  New  York 315 

Astoria 370 

Another  tragedy  at  Fort  Stikier 394 

Ashley's  Expedition 407 

Brig  May  Dacre 11 

Bullfrogs  and  Snakes 97 

Bridge  River 98 

Baker's  Bay 199 

Babcock,  Dr.  J.  L 202 

Bermuda  Islands 313 

Blowing  up  the  "  Tonquin," 371 

Calapoa  Chief  shot 25 

Centennary  of  Methodism 45 

Christmas  at  Sea 63 

Cape  Horn,  doubling 64 

Columbia  River,  crossing  the  Bar 86 

Chenook  Indians i^ 

Columbia  River,  Journey  on ...  91 

Cooper — the  Indian  half-breed 126 

"         his  remarkable  adventures. ..126 

Cornelius  Rosers 137 

Charles  Roc^ 139 

Causes  of  Panic 143 

Complaint  of  the  Indians .147 

Cape  Horn,  Oregon 153 

Cascade  Range  of  Mountains 155 

Changes  in  Hawaiian  Government 211 

Churches  at  Sandwich  Islands -.214 

Catching  a  Porpoise ...249 

Chinese  Heathen  Temple  at  Macao 279 

Canion,  city  of 282 

Cape  of  Good  Hope 304 

Cape  Town 306 

Climate  of  Oregon 333 

Captain  James  Cook 354 

Captain  Vancouver 359 

Captain  Carver 366 

Clark,  Lewis  and  Williams 366 

Captain  Bonneville 410 

Constitution  of  Oregon 426 

Distillery  abandoned -  18 

Death  of  Mrs.  Maria  Ann  Lee 31 

Departure  fromHonolohu 85 

Departure  from  Umpqua 107 

Disaster  at  the  Umpqua ..115 

Death   of  Esquire  Crocker,  Cornelius 
Rogers,  wife  and  daughter 136 


Dorio,  Baptiste 165 

Departure  from  Oregon 192 

Description  of  Hong  Kong 266 

Desperate  Affray 435 

Elk  Mountain 118 

Estate  of  Mr.  Rogers  settled 140 

Excitement  continued 145 

Election  of  Chieftain 183 

Fort  Walla  Walla 11 

First  evening  on  board  ship 39 

First  Sabbath  at  sea 44 

French   man-of-war,  Ariimese 83 

Frenchman's  wife 101 

Frenchman's  story 109 

Flood  at  Champoeg 141 

Feathercap,  the  Kayuse  Chief 166 

Fin-back  Whale 197 

Fire  at  Honolohu 204 

First  arrival    of   Missionaries  at    the 

Sandwich  islands 212 

Final  departure  and  voyage  home 244 

Flower  Gardens  near  Canton 292 

Floating  population  of  China 298 

First  American  Ships  to  N.  W.  Coast-357 
Fort  Vancouver 383 

Grey,  Mr.  hair-breadth  escape 34 

George  Abernethey 1.31 

Great  Dalls,  the 158 

Gerritt  P.  Judd 222 

Governor  of  Canton 262 

Gutzlaff,  Rev.  Charles 263 

House  for  Missionaries  built 12 

Honolohu,  city  of. 77 

Hostile  demonstrations 142 

"HoaTita,"  the  vessel 203 

Health  of  Hong  Kong 273 

History  of  Oregon 318 

Hudson's  Bay  Company 380 

Indian  School  enlarged 15 

Infant  of  Mrs.  White  drowned 33 

Indian  fight 99 

Indian  cooking 102 

Indian  dresses 107 

Indians  of  Umpqua  valley 117 

Indian  war-dance 174 

Indian  credulity.. 177 

Indian  eloquence 182 

Indian  feast 184 

Indian  doctress  killed ..190 

Independence  of  Sandwich  Islands 223 

Island  of  Formosa 260 

Italian  sailor 310 

Incident  on  board  ship 312 

Journey  down  Columbia  River 11 

Joseph  Poornaffe— death 18 


IND  EX. 


John  Day 161 

JohnRicord 224 

J.  R.  Morrison 270 

"Jos  House,"  near  Canton 286 

John  Jacob  Astor 368 

Kane's  Fork,  arrival  at 11 

Kayuse  Chief,  We-Iap-lu-Iekt 23 

Kiackamaa  Tribe ^ 144 

Kamehameha,  King 219 

Lee,  Rev.  Jason 10 

Lucy  Hedding — death 17 

Leave  Rio  de  Janerio 62 

Leave  Valparaiso 73 

Lee,  Rev.  Daniel 87 

Leave  Columbia  River 201 

Ladrone  Islands 258 

Leave  Hong  Kong 300 

Lumber  in  Oregon 346 

Missionary  Meeting  at  St  Louis 10 

Marriages  in  Oregon 25 

Mission  at  the  Dalls 29 

Medical  aid  sent  to  the  Dalls 32 

Mission  School 35 

Magellan  Clouds 53 

Mowi,  Island  of 76 

Manoah,  valley  of 83 

McLaughlin,  Dr.  John 90 

Missionary  Hymn 106 

McCary's  marriage 133 

Mount  Hood 150 

Murder  in  Oregon 248 

Macao,  city  of 276 

Mountains  of  Oregon 321 

Monopoly  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Co 385 

New  Houses  built - 26 

Native  Church  at  Honolohn 79 

Nez  Perce  Indians 178 

Ningpoo  Exchange 286 

North- west  Fur  Company 374 

Oregon  Mission — history 9 

Oregon  Temperance  Society 15 

Oregon  Missionary  Society  formed 28 

Out  of  sight  of  land 41 

Oahu,  island  of. 77 

"Old  Pomp," 115 

Oregon  Institute ...241 

Observations  on  the  Celestial  Empire. .296 
Oregon  Territory,  its  geography 317 

Parker,  Rev.  Mr.  arrival  at  Mission  ...  15 

Pacific  Coast — land  journey  to 27 

Passengers  on  the  voyage 42 

Porpoises 50 

Para,  visit  to 82 

Perilous  journey 114 

Pillar  Rock 195 

Population  of  Sandwich  Islands 209 

Punch  Bowl  Hill 228 

Productions  of  Sandwich  Islands 230 

Political  History  of  Oregon   417 

Rainy  Season 12 

Religious  excitement  at  the  Dalls 35 


Rio  de  Janerio 54 

Religious  state  of  Rio 56 

Royal  family  at  Honolohu 80 

Return  from  Umpqua 119 

Rev.  James  OUey.  drowned 123 

Rock  Island  Rapids 128 

Richard  McCary's  adventure 132 

Recovery  of  a  stolen  horse 147 

Reflections  on  the  banks  of  the  Colum- 
bia   - .- 151 

River  De  Shoots 160 

Red  Wolf. 170 

Roman  Catholic  Missionaries 217 

Return  to  Oregon 233 

Rev.  George  Gary 235 

Rivers  in  Oregon 325 

Restoration  of  Fort  George 377 

Slocum,  Wm.  A 21. 

Sea-sickness 41 

Storm  at  sea 47 

Slavery  at  Rio  de  Janerio 60 

Straits  of  Magellan 65 

Sharks  caught 74 

Sandwich  Islands,  description  of 78 

Smith,  Soublette  and  Jackson 110 

Smith's  fate Ill 

Search  for  the  body  of  Rev,  Mr.  011ey.l2S 

Second  Tour  to  Vancouver 129 

Sad  catastrophe 139 

Supper  at  Champoeg 140 

Sandwich  Islands,  view  of 207 

Seaman's  Chaplaincy  at  Honolohn 216 

Sabbath  observance  by  Hawaiians 231 

Straits  of  Sunda 302 

Sumatra  and  Java 303 

Soil  of  Oregon 338 

Spanish  discoveries 349 

Tour  to  the  Umpqua 93 

Talk  with  the  Indians 104 

Tour  to  Vancouver .120 

Third  visit  tathe  Sandwich  Islands 252 

Timber  of  Oregon 331 

Trading  Posts   West  of  Rocky  Moun- 
tains   r5S2 

Tragedy  on  Columbia  River 390 

Umpqua,  tour  commenced 29 

Umpqua  Fort 99 

Umpqua  Chief's  wife  killed 113 

Vancouver,  children  baptized 12 

Voyage  from  New  York  to  Oregon 38 

Valparaiso  city 66 

"  definition  of  name 71 

Valley  of  Lapwai 172 

Voluntary  interment  of  an  Indian 186 

Voyage  to  Ciiina 255 

White  Elijah 24 

Wallametie  River 31 

Whales  discovered 49 

Wallametie  Falls 91 

Wreck  of  the  Alcesta 301 

Young  and  Carmichael's  letter 20 

Yellow  Serpent,  and  other  Chiefs  -  -  -  -169 


HISTORY  OF  THE  OREGON  MISSION. 


CHAPTER   I. 

History  of   the   Oregon   mission,  from    its   commencement   lo  tJie  departure  of   the 
great  reinforcement,  in  the  fall  of  1839,  in  the  ship  Lausanne. 

In  the  year  1832,  four  Indians,  belonging  to  the  Flat 
Head  tribe,  living  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  per- 
formed a  wearisome  journey  on  foot  to  St.  Louis,  in 
Missouri,  for  the  purpose  of  inquiring  for  the  Christian's 
Book  and  the  white  man's  God.  Early  in  1833,  notice 
of  this  wonderful  event  was  given  in  the  Christian 
Advocate  and  Journal,  published  in  New  York,  and  a 
general  feeling  of  christian  sympath}^  was  produced  in 
all  the  churches  of  the  land  for  these  interesting  heathen, 
and  a  proposition  was  made  that  the  Missionary  Board 
of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  proceed  forthwith  to 
establish  a  mission  among  the  Flat  Head  Indians.  This 
measure  was  strongly  advocated  by  Dr.  Fisk,  Dr. 
Bangs,  and  many  others,  while  none  were  opposed  to 
the  accomphshment  of  so  worthy  an  object.  While  the 
subject  was  being  agitated.  Dr.  Fisk  corresponded  with 
the  Rev.  Jason  Lee,  of  Stanstead,  C.  E.,  having  for- 
merly been  his  tutor  in  the  Wilbraham  Academy,  to 
ascertain  whether  he  would  undertake  the  superintend- 
ence of  an  Indian  mission  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
Mr.  Lee  was  then  employed  on  an  Indian  mission,  under 
the  direction  of  the  Church  in  Canada  ;  but  yielding  to 
the  solicitations  of  Dr.  Fisk,  and  from  a  conviction  of 
duty,  he  left  Canada,  and  repairing  to  Boston  in  June, 
1 


10  HISTORY    OF 

1833,  where  the  New  England  Conference  was  then  in 
session,  he  was  received  into  that  body  as  a  member  on 
probation,  ordained  by  Bishop  Hedding,  and,  on  the 
recommendation  of  the  Board  of  Managers  of  the  Mis- 
sionary Society  of  the  M.  E,  Church,  was  appointed  to 
the  superintendence  of  the  Oregon  mission. 

In  the  following  August,  Rev.  Daniel  Lee,  a  nephew 
of  Rev.  Jason  Lee,  was  appointed  to  labor  in  the  same 
field.  When  they  received  their  appointment,  they 
knew  of  no  way  of  getting  to  the  field  assigned  them, 
unless  they  ventured  alone  across  the  continent,  through 
hostile  tribes,  or  could  find  some  vessel  bound  to  the 
North-West  coast,  around  Cape  Horn,  that  would  take 
them  on  board  ;  and  they  continued  in  suspense  in 
regard  to  their  mode  of  proceeding,  until  November, 
when  notice  appeared  in  the  public  journals  that  Captain 
N.  J.  Wyeth,  of  Cambridge,  Mass.,  had  recently  re- 
turned from  a  tour  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
that  he  contemplated  returning  to  Oregon  in  the  follow- 
ing spring.  On  receiving  this  intelligence,  J.  Lee 
immediately  repaired  to  Boston,  had  an  interview  with 
Capt.  Wyeth,  and  readily  obtained  permission  to  accom- 
pany him  back  to  Oregon.  Capt.  W.  had  also  made 
arrangements  to  send  a  vessel,  called  the  ''May  Dacre," 
round  to  the  Columbia  river,  loaded  with  goods  ;  and 
while  in  Boston  Mr.  Lee  procured  the  necessary  outfit 
for  his  mission,  and  shipped  it  on  board  of  Capt.  Wyeth^s 
vessel.  Here,  also,  by  the  consent  of  the  Board,  Mr. 
Lee  engaged  Cyrus  Shepard,  a  lay  member  of  the 
church,  to  accompany  him.  During  the  interval  be- 
tween the  time  that  they  received  their  appointment, 
and  the  period  fixed  upon  for  their  departure,  the  Lees 
held  a  number  of  missionary  meetings  in  various  parts 
of  the  country,  with  very  encouraging  results.  Early 
in  March,  1834,  they  left  New  England  for  the  west, 
and  on  arriving  in  Missouri,  P.  L.  Edwards,  also  a  lay 
member,  was  connected  with  the  mission  party,  which 
now  numbered  four. 

This  company,  after  holding  a  most  interesting  mis- 
sionary   meeting    at    St.    Louis,    proceeded    to    Fort 


THE     OREGON    MISSION.  11 

Independence,  on  the  frontiers  of  Missouri,  which  is  a 
place  of  general  rendezvous  before  starting  for  the 
mountains,  where  they  met  Capt.  Wyeth  and  his  party, 
on  the  24th  of  April,  1834. 

On  the  25th,  the  expedition  left  Independence,  and 
commenced  their  wearisome  and  perilous  journey  across 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  on  the  20th  of  June  they 
arrived  at  the  general  rendezvous  of  the  American  Fur 
Traders  on  Kane's  Fork,  which  is  a  branch  of  the  Colo- 
rado of  the  West. 

Here  they  continued  till  the  2nd  of  July,  to  recruit 
their  jaded  animals,  and  then  proceeded  on,  and  on  the 
15th,  arrived  at  a  place  on  the  Snake  river,  west  of  the 
mountains,  where  Wyeth  and  his  men  built  a  trading 
station,  which  he  called  Fort  Hall.  Here  the  mission- 
aries tarried  until  the  30th  of  July  ;  and  as  Capt.  Wyeth 
was  detained  longer  for  the  purpose  of  finishing  his  fort, 
the  mission  party  resolved  to  proceed,  in  company  with 
Mr.  Thomas  McKay  and  Capt.  Stewart,  and  on  the  first 
day  of  September  they  arrived  in  safety  at  Fort  Walla 
Walla,  on  the  Columbia  river.  They  ascertained,  on 
their  journey  down  from  Fort  Hall,  that  the  Flat  Head 
tribe  of  Indians  was  not  only  very  small,  but  very 
disadvantageously  situated  for  the  establishment  and 
support  of  missionary  operations  among  them;  and  this 
brought  them  to  the  determination  to  proceed  down  to 
the  lower  country,  to  find  a  more  eligible  site  for  the 
location  of  their  mission. 

Leaving  their  horses  at  Walla- Walla,  they  proceeded 
down  the  Columbia  in  one  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany's boats,  and  after  a  tedious  voyage  of  eleven  days, 
against  strong  head  winds,  they  arrived  in  safety  at 
Vancouver  on  the  15th  of  September,  and  the  following 
night  slept  under  a  roof,  for  the  first  time  for  one 
hundred  and  fifty-two  nights.  Worn  out  with  the  ex- 
cessive labor  and  fatigue  of  their  long  journey,  they 
could  well  appreciate  the  kind  hospitality  with  which 
they  were  entertained  by  the  gentlemen  of  the  Fort ; 
bat  they  gave  themselves  but  two  days  to  rest,  and  to 
consult  with  their  hosts,  who  were  well  acquainted  with 


12  HISTORY    OF 

all  the  Indian  tribes,  concerning  the  object  they  had  in 
view  ;  and  on  the  18th,  J.  and  D.  Lee  were  off  on  an 
exploring  tour  through  the  country,  to  ^'  make  observa- 
tions relative  to  the  best  location  for  the  mission." 

Examining  the  Wallamette  valley  and  other  portions 
of  the  country,  they  returned  to  Vancouver  on  the  27th, 
still  undecided  as  to  the  proper  place  to  make  the 
location. 

The  merits  of  the  different  portions  of  the  country 
were  considered,  the  Flat  Heads,  the  Nez  Perces,  the 
Kayuses,  and  other  tribes,  were  faithfully  reviewed,  but 
to  the  exclusion  of  all  others,  the  Wallamette  valley  was 
strongly  recommended  by  Dr.  John  McLaughlin  and  the 
rest  of  the  gentlemen  of  Vancouver,  as  the  most  eligible 
place  for  the  establishment  of  the  centre  of  their  ope- 
rations. 

On  Sunday,  the  28th,  Jason  Lee  preached  twice  at 
Vancouver,  to  a  congregation  of  English,  Irish,  French, 
half-caste,  &c.,  which  wei'e  the  lirst  sermons  ever 
preached  in  the  place,  and  doubtless  the  first  that  many 
of  the  people  had  ever  heard. 

It  was  finally  decided,  ''  after  much  prayer  for  direc- 
tion as  to  the  place,"  to  locate  the  mission  in  the 
Wallamette  valley,  and  as  the  brig  May  Dacre  had 
safely  arrived  in  the  Columbia  with  the  goods  belonging 
to  the  mission,  measures  were  immediately  taken  to 
receive  them  from  Capt.  Lambert,  and  convey  them  to 
the  place  selected  for  the  station.  The  brig  lay  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Multnomah,  or  lower  mouth  of  the  Walla- 
mette, and  the  site  for  the  mission  was  seventy-five 
miles  up  the  river;  but,  after  "much  toil  and  hard 
labor,"  Mr.  Lee  succeeded  in  getting  up  all  the  goods, 
and  they  were  landed  on  the  mission  premises  on  the 
6th  day  of  October. 

The  rainy  season  was  commencing,  and  as  they  had 
no  bouse  to  shelter  either  themselves  or  their  goods 
from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather,  they  went  imme- 
diately to  work  to  prepare  logs,  &c.,  to  build  a  house. 
The  rain  fell  in  torrents  long  before  their  house  was 
erected,  yet  they  labored  constantly  during  the  day,  and 


THE     OREGON    MISSION.  13 

at  night  were  obliged  to  lie  down  together  in  a  small 
tent,  scarcely  large  enough  to  contain  them,  and, 
wrapped  in  their  wet  clothes,  seek  a  few  homes'  repose 
to  prepare  them  for  the  toils  and  storms  of  the  ensuing 
day.  Their  house  was  32  feet  by  1 8,  and  on  the  3d  of 
November  they  moved  their  goods  into  it,  though  they 
had  put  on  but  ten  feet  of  the  roof.  So  soon  as  they 
got  their  house  thus  partly  covered,  they  began  to 
receive  Indian  children  into  their  family,  with  the  design 
of  establishing  a  mission  school,  and  also  to  labor  for  the 
spiritual  benefit  of  all  the  Indians,  and  the  few  French 
people  who  had  settled  in  the  country.  Meetings  were 
estabhshed  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Joseph  Gervais,  and 
held  every  Sabbath,  the  principal  ^  attendants  being 
French  and  half-caste. 

On  the  14th  of  December,  Mr.  Jason  Lee  visited 
Vancouver,  where  he  preached,  and  baptized  four  adults 
and  seventeen  children.  In  consideration  of  these  ser- 
vices he  received,  in  donations,  from  the  gentlemen  of 
the  company,  the  sum  of  twenty  dollars,  for  the  benefit 
of  the  mission.  During  the  winter  of  1835,  the  missiona- 
ries were  alternately  employed  in  improving  their  house, 
procuring  supplies,  preaching  the  gospel,  and  teaching 
the  Indian  and  half-caste  children  to  read  and  write. 

Thrown  entirely  upon  their  own  resources,  in  the 
spring,  to  guard  against  future  want,  they  commenced 
cultivating  the  ground.  There  was  no  alternative;  they 
must  do  so,  or  starve.  While  they  saw  some  fruits  of 
their  labors  in  other  respects,  this  department  of  their 
work,  during  the  summer,  was  greatly  prospered,  for  in 
the  fall,  after  they  gathered  in  their  crops,  they  found 
themselves  with  a'good  supply  of  w^heat,  peas,  oats,  and 
barley,  and  two  hundred  and  fifty  bushels  of  potatoes 
in  their  cellar.  This,  with  six  barrels  of  salmon  which 
J.  Lee  purchased  fresh  of  the  Indians  at  the  Wallamette 
Falls,  and  salted  with  his  own  hands,  and  took  up  the 
river  to  the  mission,  furnished  them  wdth  the  means  of 
subsistence  for  the  following  year. 

Soon  after  the  missionaries  first  arrived,  Mr.  Cyrus 
Shepard  was  employed  at  Vancouver,  to  teach  the  chil- 


14  HISTORY    OF 

dren  belonging  to  the  Fort,  but  losing  his  health,  he  was 
obliged  to  leave  his  school.  On  the  ]st  of  March  he 
ascended  the  river  in  company  w^ith  Mr.  Lee,  and  from 
that  time  remained  on  the  Wallamette  station. 

Late  in  August  a  circumstance  happened  which  shows 
to  what  dangers  the  missionaries  were  exposed.  A  boy 
whose  Lidian  name  was  Ken-o-teesh,  belonging  to  the 
Si-le-lah  tribe,  was  received  into  the  mission  in  April, 
and  died  on  the  19th  of  the  following  August.  A  few 
days  after  his  death,  his  brother  came  to  the  mission, 
determined  to  seek  revenge  for  the  death  of  Ken-o- 
teesh,  by  taking  the  hfe  of  Daniel  Lee  and  Cyrus 
Shepard.  He  remained  over  night,  and  was  prevented 
from  accomplishing  his  design  only  by  the  interposition 
of  an  Indian  who  accompanied  him.  Bent  upon  glut- 
ting his  vengeance  on  somebody,  he  crossed  the  river, 
and  fell  upon  a  band  of  unarmed  Indians,  and  savagely 
murdered  several  of  them. 

In  the  month  of  September,  nearly  the  whole  mission 
family  were  attacked  with  the  intermittent  fever,  and 
the  mission  house  was  converted  into  an  hospital,  with- 
out an  attending  physician.  A  scene  of  distress  now 
presented  itself,  and  our  missionaries  not  only  suffered 
personally,  but  were  obliged  to  descend  to  the  most 
menial  services,  in  waiting  upon  the  Indian  children,  for 
whose  comfort  they  manifested  the  utmost  care. 

Mr.  Daniel  Lee  and  Mr.  P.  L.  Edwards  left  the 
mission  premises  the  last  of  September,  the  former  for 
Vancouver  to  obtain  medical  aid,  and  the  latter  to 
embark  on  board  the  Brig  May  Dacre  for  the  United 
States.  Remaining  awhile  at  Vancouver  without  bene- 
fit to  his  health,  Mr.  Lee,  by  the  advice  of  Dr.  Mc- 
Laughlin, embarked  on  board  one  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company's  ships,  bound  for  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and 
in  consequence  of  this,  Mr.  Edwards  relinquished  the 
idea  of  leaving  the  country  at  that  time,  and  returned 
to  the  mission,  and  late  in  October  established  a  school 
for  the  winter,  at  Campment  du  Sable,  on  Champoeg. 

To  provide  for  future  contingencies,  the  missionaries 
sowed  that  fall  twenty-seven  bushels  of  wheat. 


THE    OREGON    MISSION.  15 

On  the  26th  of  November,  the  Rev,  Mr.  Parker  a 
Presbyterian  Clergyman  from  the  State  of  New  York, 
arrived  at  the  mission,  vi^here  he  was  most  cordially 
received.  He  had  been  sent  out  by  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M. 
to  explore  the  country,  and  ascertain  the  most  eligible 
site  for  a  mission.  He  remained  at  the  station  two  da3^s 
only,  when  he  returned  to  Vancouver.  Dr.  Marcus 
Whitman  accompanied  him  over  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
but  on  arriving  at  the  Snake  river,  the  doctor  returned 
to  the  States  for  the  purpose  of  inducing  the  Board  to 
appoint  missionaries  forthwith  to  Oregon. 

The  enlargement  of  the  mission  family  by  receiving 
Indian  children  from  time  to  time,  rendered  it  necessary, 
at  the  close  of  this  year,  for  the  missionaries  to  build  an 
addition  to  their  house,  32  by  16  feet  This  they  did 
principally  with  their  own  hands.  In  reviewing  the  year^ 
the  missionaries  found  cause  for  thankfulness  in  the 
success  which  had  attended  their  labors,  though  they 
had  been  called  to  pass  through  some  tr3ang  scenes, 
and  to  meet  with  many  discouragements.  They  had 
received  fifteen  children  into  the  family,  of  whom  four 
had  died,  and  one  had  been  dismissed,  leaving  ten  under 
their  instruction.  These  were  making  rapid  progress 
in  manners,  science,  and  useful  labor ;  and  by  the  bless- 
ing of  God  the  missionaries  had  a  sufficiency  of  whole- 
some food  for  themselves  and  the  children. 

In  February,  1836,  hearing  it  rumored  abroad  that 
certain  Americans,  who  had  arrived  in  the  country, 
were  about  to  commence  the  manufacture  of  rum,  and 
fearing,  from  a  knowledge  of  the  material  of  which  the 
Oregon  community  was  composed,  that  intemperance 
would  sweep  over  their  field  of  labor,  the  missionaries 
invited  the  settlers  to  the  mission  house,  and  formed  the 
Oregon  Temperance  Society,  the  first  organized  west 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Three  only,  besides  the 
members  of  the  mission,  signed  the  pledge  at  first,  but 
subsequently  the  number  increased  to  eighteen. 

About  the  first  of  March  a  vessel  arrived  in  the  Co- 
lumbia from  the  Sandwich  Islands,  bringing  intelligence 
that  the  health  of  Daniel  Lee  had  much  improved,  but 


16  HISTORY    OF 

for  the  general  good  of  the  cause  he  had  concluded  to 
remain  till  another  opportunity  should  present  itself  for 
returning  to  Oregon.  The  natives  of  Oakee  had  made 
a  contribution  to  Mr.  Lee  for  the  benefit  of  the  Oregon 
mission,  amounting  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars. 
At  the  same  time  that  this  intelligence  reached  the  mis- 
sion, a  letter  was  received  by  Jason  Lee  from  Dr. 
McLaughlin,  inclosing  a  subscription  for  the  benefit  of 
the  mission,  to  the  amount  of  one  hundred  and  thirty 
dollars,  all  from  the  gentlemen  at  Vancouver.  As  the 
letter  shows  in  what  light  these  intelligent  persons 
viewed  the  mission  at  that  time,  I  insert  a  copy.  It  is 
as  follows  : 

^'FoRT  Vancouver,  1st  March,  1836. 
The  Rev.  Jason  Lee  : 

Dear  Sir, — I  do  myself  the  pleasure  to  hand  you  the 
inclosed  subscription,  which  the  gentlemen  who  have 
signed  it  request  you  will  do  them  the  favor  to  accept 
for  the  use  of  the  mission,  and  they  pray  our  Heavenly 
Father,  without  whose  assistance  we  can  do  nothing, 
that  of  his  infinite  mercy  he  may  vouchsafe  to  bless  and 
prosper  your  pious  endeavors — and  believe  me  to  be, 
with  esteem  and  regard,  your  sincere  w^ell  wisher  and 
humble  servant, 

John  McLaughlin.  " 

The  business  of  the  mission  continued  as  usual,  with- 
out any  thing  especial  taking  place,  until  the  30th  of 
April,  when  we  find  Mr.  J.  Lee  at  the  death  bed  of  G. 
Sergent,  a  native  of  New  England,  whom  he  found  in 
extreme  agony  both  of  body  and  mind.  As  Mr.  Lee 
entered,  the  dying  man  told  him  that  as  he  had  lived  a 
life  of  wickedness,  he  was  about  to  die  an  awful  death. 
The  missionary  pointed  him  to  the  Redeemer  of  the 
world,  and  commended  him  to  God  in  prayer.  He  ap- 
peared deeply  affected,  and  responding  a  hearty  amen, 
in  a  short  time  ceased  to  breathe. 

Teaching  the  children,  preaching  to  both  the  settlers 
and  natives,   visiting  the   sick,   attending  funerals,   and 


THE    OREGON    MISSION.  17 

harvesting  their  crops^  employed  the  time  of  the  mis- 
sionaries during  the  summer  ;  and  in  the  fall,  to  make 
their  ''  bread  sure,  "  they  sowed  thirty-four  bushels  of 
wheat. 

In  the  latter  part  of  August  there  arrived  a  vessel  in 
the  Columbia  river  from  England,  by  the  way  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  having  on  board  the  Rev.  Daniel  Lee, 
who  had  recovered  his  health,  and  Rev.  Mr.  Beaver 
and  lady.  Mr.  Beaver  had  been  sent  out  as  chaplain 
to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  at  Vancouver.  He  was 
a  clergyman  of  the  Church  of  England.  Mr.  Lee 
arrived  at  the  mission  at  a  very  seasonable  time  to 
render  himself  useful,  not  only  in  his  appropriate  mis- 
sionary work,  but  also  in  assisting  to  take  care  of  the 
sick  members  of  the  mission  family.  At  this  time  Mr. 
J.  Lee  was  suffering  under  a  severe  attack  of  the  inter- 
mittent fever.  Partially  recovering  from  this  attack,  he 
started  for  Vancouver  on  the  6th  of  September,  taking 
with  him  a  favorite  Indian  girl  whom  he  called  Lucy 
tiedding,  to  obtain  medical  aid  in  her  behalf. 

On  the  12th,  he  returned,  bringing  information  of  the 
arrival  at  Walla- Walla  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Spaulding  and 
wife.  Dr.  Whitman  and  wife,  and  Mr.  Grey,  who  had 
been  sent  out  as  missionaries  by  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M. 
As  Mr.  Lee  had  taken  the  lower  country,  they  decided 
upon  locating  their  mission  in  the  interior,  among  the 
Kayuse  and  Nez  Perce  Indians.  These  were  the  first 
American  ladies  that  ever  crossed  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
and  their  arrival  in  the  country  formed  an  epoch  in  the 
history  of  Oregon. 

During  the  month  of  September,  nearly  all  the  mission 
family  were  sick  at  once,  with  the  intermittent  fever, 
and  another  was  taken  to  Vancouver,  by  Mr.  Edwards, 
for  medical  aid.  Mr.  Edwards  returned  on  the  30th, 
bringing  with  him  Lucy  Hedding,  who  had  received  no 
benefit  from  medicine.     She  died  on  the  5th  of  October. 

On  the  22nd,  J.  Lee  had  a  third  attack  of  the  fever, 
so  severe  as  to  deprive  him  of  reason  for  a  short  time. 
He  continued  to  suffer,  without  medical  advice,  until  the 
21st  of  November,  when,  in  a  very  reduced  state,  he 


18  HISTORY    OF 

set  out  for  Vancouver,  where  he  arrived  tv^o  days 
afterwards. 

During  his  absence,  died  Joseph  Pournaffe,  a  member 
of  the  mission  school,  aged  17  years.  This  lad  was 
very  attentive  to  religious  instruction,  and  left*  off  play 
and  work  on  the  Sabbath,  immediately  on  being  told  it 
was  wrong.  He  often  expressed  much  thankfulness 
that  the  missionaries  had  come  to  the  country,  to  learn 
him  to  read,  and  tell  him  about  God.  He  was  a  pro- 
mising youth,  and,  if  he  had  lived,  would  probably  have 
been  a  blessing  to  the  country.  As  it  was,  the  missiona- 
ries had  much  consolation  in  his  death,  for  he  gave  them 
satisfaction  that  their  labors  had  not  been  in  vain. 

On  the  28th  of  December,  after  an  absence  of  five 
weeks,  J.  Lee  returned  from  Vancouver  with  his  health 
somewhat  improved,  though  still  quite  feeble. 

Eighteen  children  and  adults  had  been  admitted  into 
the  mission  family  during  this  year ;  two  had  died  and 
one  had  run  away.  The  missionaries  found  on  their 
hands,  the  last  day  of  December,  twenty-five  persons  ; 
but  having  enlarged  their  farming  operations,  by  the 
blessing  of  God  they  found  themselves  in  the  possession 
of  suppHes  amply  sufficient  to  sustain  them  until  another 
harvest. 

On  the  2nd  day  of  January,  1837,  the  members  of 
the  mission  found  cause  to  rally  their  forces,  to  support 
the  cause  of  temperance.  A  meeting  of  the  Temperance 
Society  was  called  at  the  mission  house ;  one  member 
who  had  violated  the  pledge,  was  excluded,  and  three 
more  were  added  to  the  Society.  As  the  reports  con- 
cerning the  distillation  of  ardent  spirits  were  about  to  be 
verified  by  a  couple  of  men,  named  Young  and  Carmi- 
chael,  it  was  unanimously  resolved  by  the  meeting  to  send 
them  a  written  request,  signed  by  all  the  members  of  the 
Oregon  Temperance  Society,  to  desist  from  their  unholy 
enterprise.  The  following  is  a  copy  of  the  correspond- 
ence which  took  place  between  the  Society  and  Messrs. 
Young  &  Carmichael,  and  is  inserted  to  show  what 
stand  the  missionaries  took  in  guarding  the  morals  of 
the  community,  and  the   extent  of  the  influence   they 


THE    OREGON    MISSION.  19 

exerted.     But  for  these  measures,  intemperance  would 
have  devastated  the  country. 

"  Messrs.  Young  &  Carmichael  : 

"  Gentlemen,  —  Whereas  w^e,  the  members  of  the 
Oregon  Temperance  Society,  have  learned  with  no 
common  interest,  and  with  feelings  of  deep  regret,  that 
you  are  now  preparing  a  distillery  for  the  purpose  of 
manufacturing  ardent  spirits,  to  be  sold  in  this  vicinity; 
and,  whereas,  we  are  most  fully  convinced  that  the 
vending  of  spiritous  liquors  will  more  effectually  para- 
lyze our  efforts  for  the  promotion  of  temperance,  than 
any  other,  or  all  other  obstacles  that  can  be  thrown  in 
our  way;  and,  as  we  do  feel  a  Hvely  and  intense  interest 
in  the  success  of  the  temperance  cause,  believing  as  we 
do,  that  the  prosperity  and  interests  of  this  infant  and 
rising  settlement  will  be  materially  affected  by  it,  both 
as  it  respects  its  temporal  and  spiritual  welfare,  and  that 
the  poor  Indians,  whose  case  is  even  now  indescribably 
wretched,  will  be  made  far  more  so  by  the  use  of  ardent 
spirits  ;  and  whereas,  gentlemen,  you  are  not  ignorant 
that  the  laws  of  the  United  States  prohibit  American 
citizens  from  selling  ardent  spirits  to  Indians  under  the 
penalty  of  a  heavy  fine  ;  and  as  you  do  not  pretend  to 
justify  yourselves,  but  urge  pecuniary  interest  as  the 
reason  of  your  procedure  ;  and  as  w^e  do  not,  cannot 
think  it  will  be  of  pecuniary  interest  to  you  to  prosecute 
this  business  ;  and  as  we  are  not  enemies,  but  friends, 
and  do  not  wish,  under  existing  circumstances,  that  you 
should  sacrifice  one  penny  of  the  money  you  have 
already  expended ;  we,  therefore,  for  the  above,  and 
various  other  reasons  which  we  could  urge, 

"  1st.  Resolved,  That  we  do  most  earnestly  and  feel- 
ingly request  you,  gentlemen,  forever  to  abandon  your 
enterprise. 

"  2nd.  Resolved,  That  we  will  and  do  hereby  agree 
to  pay  you  the  sum  you  have  expended,  if  you  will  give 
us  the  avails  of  your  expenditures,  or  deduct  from  them 
the  bill  of  expenses. 


20  HISTORY    OF 

"  3d.  Resolved,  That  a  committee  of  one  be  appointed 
to  make  known  the  views  of  this  society,  and  preseni 
our  request  to  Messrs.  Young  &  Carmichael. 

"  4th.  Resolved,  That  the  undersigned  will  pay  the 
sums  severally  affixed  to  our  names,  to  Messrs.  Young 
&  Carmichael,  on  or  before  the  thirty-first  day  of 
March  next,  the  better  to  enable  them  to  give  up  their 
project." 

Then  followed  the  names  of  nine  Americans,  and 
fifteen  Frenchmen,  which  then  embraced  a  majority  of 
the  white  men  of  the  country,  excluding  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  with  a  subscription  of  sixty-three  dollars, 
and  a  note  appended  as  follows: 

"  We,  the  undersigned,  jointly  promise  to  pay  the 
balance,  be  the  same  more  or  less. 

''  Jason  Lee, 
Daniel  Lee, 
Cyrus  Shepard, 
P.  L.  Edwards." 

To  the  above  request  Messrs.  Young  &l  Carmichael 
returned  the  following  answer: 

"Wallamette,   13th  Jan.,   1837. 
"  To  THE  Oregon  Temperance  Society: 

*'  Gentlemen,  —  Having  taken  into  consideration  your 
request  to  rehnquish  our  enterprise  in  manufacturing 
ardent  spirits,  we  therefore  do  agree  to  stop  our  pro- 
ceeding for  the  present.  But,  gentlemen,  the  reasons 
for  first  beginning  such  an  undertaking  were  the  innu- 
merable difficulties  placed  in  our  way  by,  and  the 
tyranising  oppression  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
here  under  the  absolute  authority  of  Dr.  McLaughlin, 
who  has  treated  us  with  more  disdain  than  any  Ameri- 
can citizen's  feelings  could  support.  But  as  there  have 
now  some  favorable  circumstances  occurred  to  enable 
us  to  get  along  without  making  spiritous  liquors,  we 
resolve  to  stop  the  manufacture  of  it  for  the  present; 
but,  gentlemen,  it  is  not  consistent  with  our  feelings  to 


THE    OREGON    MISSION.  2^1 

receive  any  recompense  whatever  for  our  expenditures, 
but  v^^e  are  thankful  to  the  Society  for  their  otfer. 
"  We  remain,  yours,  &c., 

"  Young  &  Carmichael." 

The  missionaries  from  the  first  had  proved  a  great 
blessing  to  the  country,  not  only  in  a  spiritual  and  moral 
point  of  view,  but  in  furnishing  employment  to  many 
individuals  otherwise  without  the  means  of  livelihood ; 
and  setting  an  example  of  industry  and  perseverance  in 
the  temporal  departments  of  their  work,  they  gave  a 
spur  to  all  business  operations,  and  the  community 
seemed  at  once  to  spring  from  that  state  of  inactivity 
into  which  it  had  been  thrown  by  the  domineering 
policy  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  into  one  of 
great  enterprise  and  prosperity.  In  the  early  part  of 
January  a  circumstance  transpired  which  enabled  the 
members  of  the  mission  and  others,  to  carry  out  a  design 
which  they  had  previously  formed,  and  in  the  execution 
of  which  the  temporal  interests  of  the  country  would  be 
greatly  promoted.  This  design  was  to  send  an  expedi- 
tion to  California  to  purchase  and  drive  to  Oregon  a 
band  of  neat  cattle  for  the  supply  of  the  settlers.  The 
circumstance  referred  to  was  the  arrival  in  the  country 
of  Wm.  A.  Slocum,  Esq.,  of  the  United  States  Navy. 
Up  to  this  period  there  were  no  cattle  in  the  country, 
except  what  belonged  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
and  they  would  not  sell,  but  compelled  the  settlers,  if 
they  had  cattle  at  all,  to  take  cows  merely  for  their 
milk,  and  return  them  with  their  increase.  This  looked 
too  much  like  oppression  to  Mr.  Jason  Lee,  and  he 
resolved,  if  possible,  to  break  up  the  cattle  monopoly, 
believing  that  he  would  thereby  confer  a  lasting  benefit 
to  the  country.  On  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Slocum,  he  pro- 
posed to  take  to  Cahfornia,  any  number  of  persons  that 
might  be  needed,  free  of  expense  except  board  ;  and 
a  meeting  was  immediately  called  at  the  mission  house, 
for  the  purpose  of  forming  a  California  Cattle  Company, 
and  making  the  necessary  arrangements  for  the  expedi- 
tion.    Each  person  belonging  to  the  Company  was  to 


2^  HISTORY    OF 

share  in  proportion  to  the  amount  of  money  he  invested, 
and  the  persons  who  went  with  the  expedition  were  to 
be  paid  a  stipulated  sum  per  month  in  cattle.  P.  L. 
Edwards  and  Ewing  Young,  were  appointed  to  take 
charge  of  the  Company,  and  Thursday  the  19th  of 
January  was  fixed  upon  as  the  day  for  the  vessel  to  sail. 
Mr.  Slocum,  while  in  Oregon,  manifested  a  deep 
interest  in  the  welfare  of  the  rising  settlement,  and 
especially  in  the  prosperity  of  the  Oregon  mission.  He 
highly  approved  of  the  method  the  missionaries  had 
pursued  to  benefit  the  Indians,  and  said  he  was  perfectly 
astonished  at  the  improvement  those  had  made  who 
were  under  the  care  of  the  mission.  In  company  with 
Mr.  Jason  Lee,  he  visited  the  several  farms  in  the 
settlement,  and  on  the  14th,  took  his  leave  of  the  Walla- 
mette,  Mr.  Lee  accompanying  him  to  Vancouver.  A 
letter  signed  by  the  missionaries,  commendatory  of  the 
course  Mr.  Slocum  had  pursued  in  the  country,  had 
been  put  into  his  hands  before  leaving,  and  he  returned 
them  the  following  answer,  which  contained  a  donation 
of  fifteen  dollars  for  the  benefit  of  the  mission.  This 
letter  was  put  into  the  hands  of  Mr.  Lee  during  his  last 
interview  with  Mr.  Slocum. 

"  American  Brig  Loriot,  off  the  Wallamette,  ) 
Oregon  river,  18th  January,  1837.  5 

"  My  dear  Sirs  : — I  have  much  pleasure  in  acknow- 
ledging the  receipt  of  your  kind  favor  of  the  16th,  and 
I  beg  leave  to  thank  you  for  the  expressions  of  regard 
contained  therein.  It  was  indeed  a  source  of  regret 
that  I  could  continue  no  longer  at  your  mission  on  the 
banks  of  the  Wallamette,  for  the  visit  was  to  me  one 
of  exceeding  interest.  On  my  return  to  the  civilized 
parts  of  our  country,  I  shall  not  hesitate  to  express  my 
humble  opinion  that  you  have  already  effected  a  great 
public  good,  by  practically  showing  that  the  Indians 
west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  are  capable  of  the  union 
of  mental  and  physical  discipline,  as  taught  at  your 
establishment.  For  I  have  seen  with  my  own  eyes, 
children,  who,  two  years  ago,  were  roaming  their  own 


THE    OREGON    MISSION. 


native  wilds  in  a  state  of  savage  barbarism,  nov^  being 
brought  within  the  knowledge  of  moral  and  religious 
instruction,  becoming  useful  members  of  society,  by 
being  taught  the  most  useful  of  all  arts,  agriculture,  and 
all  this  without  the  slightest  compulsion. 

"  As  an  evidence  of  my  good  will  towards  the  lauda- 
ble efforts  you  are  making  in  this  remote  quarter, 
debarred  of  almost  every  comfort,  deprived  of  the 
associations  of  kindred,  and  of  home,  I  beg  you  to  accept 
herewith,  the  sum  of  fifty  dollars  ;  only  regretting  that 
my  means  at  present  will  not  allow  me  to  add  more,  I 
pray  you  to  accept,  my  dear  sirs,  the  assurances  of  the 
unfeigned  regard  of, 

'^  Your  friend  and  ob'nt  servant, 

"  Wm.  a.  Slocum,  U.  S.  N." 

Mr.  Slocum's  vessel  left  the  Columbia  river  about  the 
first  of  February,  and  arrived  safely  in  the  Bay  of  San 
Francisco,  on  the  coast  of  California.  The  cattle  com- 
pany proceeded  immediately  to  purchase  a  large  band 
of  cattle,  and  a  number  of  horses,  with  which  they 
started  for  Oregon.  In  crossing  a  range  of  mountains 
separating  the  two  countries,  they  were  attacked  by  the 
Rascal  Indians,  and  a  number  of  their  cattle  were  killed, 
but  they  at  length  succeeded  in  driving  back  their  foe, 
and  saving  the  remainder.  Contrary  to  the  predictions 
and  wishes  of  the  members  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, who  indirectly  opposed  them  at  the  outset,  they 
arrived  in  safety  in  the  Wallamette  valley  with  six 
hundred  head  of  cattle,  and  distributed  them  among  the 
settlers,  according  to  the  provisions  of  the  compact. 
This  successful  enterprise,  which  laid  the  foundation  for 
a  rapid  accumulation  of  wealth  by  the  settlers,  was 
mainly  accomplished  through  the  energy  and  persever- 
ance of  Rev.  Jason  Lee. 

Sometime  in  July,  1836,  We-lap-tu-Iekt,  an  Indian  of 
the  Kayuse  tribe,  came  to  the  mission  on  the  Walla- 
mette, and  brought  two  of  his  sons,  whom  he  desired  to 
have  remain  to  be  educated.  He  had  travelled  with  the 
missionaries,   while  on  their  wav  from   Fort   Hall    to 


24  HISTORY    OP  ^ 

Walla- Walla,  and  seemed  very  attentive  to  religious 
instruction,  and  desirous  that  missionaries  should  settle 
in  the  Kay  use  country  ;  but  none  having  yet  come,  he 
resolved  to  visit  the  mission  in  the  loM^er  country.  He 
v^^as  so  well  pleased  that  he  determined  to  return  to  his 
country,  and  bring  his  family  dov^^n  to  the  mission,  as 
soon  as  possible.  This  he  accomplished  by  the  6th  of 
September,  when  he  settled  his  family  near  the  mis- 
sion station.  Some  of  his  children  attended  the  school, 
and  appeared  to  be  making  rapid  improvement,  but  in 
February,  1837,  his  family  began  to  suffer  with  disease. 
Two  of  his  children  died  in  quick  succession,  and  a  third 
was  fast  sinking  with  a  burning  fever.  We-lap-tu-lekt 
was  frightened,  and  supposed  that  all  his  family  would 
die,  if  he  did  not  leave  the  place.  He  accordingly  fled 
in  a  canoe,  but  just  at  the  moment  of  his  landing  at 
Vancouver,  another  of  his  family  expired.  These  re- 
peated deaths  in  one  family,  and  the  fact  that  most  of 
the  mission  children  were  sick,  and  some  had  died  but 
recently,  began  to  create  a  prejudice  in  the  minds  of  the 
Indians,  against  having  their  children  remain  with  the 
mission,  and  after  this  it  was  not  so  easy  to  procure  and 
retain  them. 

In  February,  1835,  Mr.  Lee  addressed  letters  to  the 
Board  in  New  York,  earnestly  soliciting  them  to  send 
out  a  reinforcement.  In  compliance  with  this  request, 
the  Board  appointed  Dr.  Elijah  White  and  wife,  Mr. 
AJanson  Beers  and  wife,  Miss  Ann  Maria  Pitman,  Miss 
Susan  Downing,  Miss  Elvina  Johnson,  and  Mr.  W.  H. 
Wilson,  assistant  missionaries.  This  company  sailed 
from  Boston  in  July,  1836,  and,  after  several  months 
detention  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  entered  the  mouth  of 
the  Columbia  river  in  May,  1837.  Intelligence  of  their 
arrival  in  the  Columbia  was  received  on  the  18th  of 
May,  and  the  following  day  J.  Lee  went  down  the  river 
in  a  canoe  to  meet  them  and  conduct  them  to  the 
station.  On  the  27th  he  returned  with  five  of  them,  the 
others  remaining  awhile  at  Vancouver.  Their  arrival 
in  the  country  was  hailed  by  the  four  lonely  brethren, 
who   had   hitherto  composed   the   mission,   with   great 


M  THE     OREGON    MISSION.  25 

gladness,  and  the  more  so  because  they  were  thenceforth 
to  be  cheered  by  the  presence  and  sympathy  of  intelli- 
gent females,  from  their  own  native  land,  especially  as 
they  had  found,  long  before  this,  that  "  it  was  not  good 
for  man  to  be  alone." 

The  next  day  after  the  arrival  of  the  reinforcement  at 
the  station,  Sam-nik,  a  Calapooa  chief,  was  brought  to 
the  mission  house,  dreadfully  mangled,  having  been  shot 
by  another  Indian,  while  sleeping  in  his  lodge.  He 
desired  surgical  aid.  This  was  the  second  circumstance 
of  the  kind  that  had  transpired  within  a  short  time. 

The  last  of  May,  the  mission  was  visited  by  Captain 
Hinckley  and  lady,  of  the  vessel  that  brought  out  the 
reinforcement,  and  the  first  of  June,  J.  Lee  accompanied 
them  back  to  Vancouver.  On  his  return,  the  13th  of 
that  month,  he  found  Cyrus  Shepard  dangerously  sick 
with  inflammatory  fever;  but  under  the  faithful  care  of 
Dr.  White,"he  soon  recovered. 

On  the  4th  of  July,  the  annual  meeting  of  the  Oregon 
Temperance  Society  was  held  at  the  mission  house, 
when  short  and  appropriate  addresses  were  delivered  by 
J.  Lee,  D.  Lee,  A.  Beers,  W.  H.  Wilson  and  Dr.  White. 
Twelve  new  members  were  added,  and  a  most  satisfac- 
tory influence  was  gained  for  the  cause  of  temperance. 

On  Sabbath,  the  16th  of  July,  a  large  assembly  for 
Oregon  convened  in  the  pleasant  grove  of  firs,  in  front 
of  the  mission  house,  for  the  purpose  of  religious  worship. 
The  services  were  conducted  by  Rev.  Daniel  Lee,  and 
commenced  by  his  uniting  in  lawful  matrimony,  accord- 
ing to  the  form  laid  down  in  the  Methodist  Discipline, 
the  Rev.  Jason  Lee  with  Miss  Ann  Maria  Pitman,  Cyrus 
Shepard  with  Miss  Susan  Downing,  and  Charles  Roe 
with  Miss  Nancy,  an  Indian  girl  of  the  Calapooa  tribe. 
This  was  followed  by  an  appropriate  discourse,  and  the 
sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper.  It  was  a  season  of 
thrilling  interest  to  all  present.  Two  persons  who  pro- 
fessed to  have  recently  experienced  the  comforts  of  reli- 
gion, united  with  the  church,  and  one  of  them,  though 
brought  up  a  Quaker,  was  baptized,  and  both  partook  of 
the  sacrament. 


SJ©  HISTORY    OF 

No  particular  change  took  place  in  the  mission  in 
consequence  of  the  arrival  of  the  reinforcement,  with 
the  exception  of  the  enlargement  of  its  financial  opera- 
tions. Two  log  houses,  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
families,  and  a  blacksmith  shop,  were  immediately- 
erected.  A  short  time  after,  a  frame  house  was  built, 
located  one  mile  from  the  station  back  from  the  river, 
and  w^as  occupied  by  the  family  of  Dr.  White.  This 
was  the  only  comfortable  house  as  yet  owned  by  the 
mission.  During  the  same  season  Mr.  Lee  bought  out  a 
Frenchman  who  had  built  a  small  house,  and  opened  a 
farm  so  near  the  mission  premises  as  to  be  much  in  the 
way.  By  this  purchase  the  mission  enlarged  its  farm- 
ing improvements,  and  having  now  a  large  band  of 
cattle,  resulting  from  the  California  expedition,  Mr. 
Josiah  Whitcomb  was  employed  by  the  mission  to  take 
charge  of  the  farming  operations,  as  it  was  impossible 
for  the  Lees  to  attend  to  them  and  look  after  the 
spiritual  w^ants  of  the  people. 

The  number  of  children  and  adults  in  the  mission 
continued  to  increase,  notwithstanding  the  numerous 
deaths  that  had  taken  place,  until  the  average  number 
attending  the  day  and  sabbath  school  w^as  from  thirty  to 
thirty-five.  The  school  was  under  the  judicious  man- 
agement of  Cyrus  Shepard,  and  at  this  period  was  in  a 
very  flourishing  condition.  The  scholars  were  taught 
the  English  language,  and  made  rapid  proficiency  in 
reading,  writing,  spelling,  geography,  and  arithmetic. 

As  the  sickly  season  came  on,  some  of  the  missionaries 
performed  two  tours  through  the  country,  for  the  benefit 
of  their  health.  On  the  2d  of  August,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Lee  and  Mr.  Shepard,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Desportes 
as  a  guide,  started  up  the  Wallamette  river  on  horse- 
back, and  journeying  leisurely  for  several  days,  towards 
the  south,  took  a  circuit  eastward,  and  striking  the  head 
waters  of  the  Molala  river,  followed  down  that  stream 
to  the  north,  towards  where  it  forms  a  junction  with 
the  Wallamette.  Crossing  the  latter  river  at  Champoeg, 
they  returned  in  safety  to  the  mission,  after  an  absence 
of  ten  days.     They  saw  and  imparted  instruction  to  a 


THE    OREGON    MISSION.  27 

few  bands  of  Indians  on  their  route,  and  returned  with 
reanimated  health. 

On  the  14th  of  August,  Mr.  J.  Lee  and  Mr.  C.  Shep- 
ard,  with  their  wives,  accompanied  by  Joseph  Gervais 
as  guide,  left  the  mission  to  perform  a  land  journey  to 
the  Pacific  coast.  They  traveled  one  day  and  a  half, 
through  a  very  beautiful  and  fertile  country,  crossing 
the  Wallamette  and  Yamhill  rivers,  and  encamped  the 
second  night  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  which  separate 
the  Wallamette  valley  from  the  Pacific  ocean.  Next 
day  they  commenced  crossing  the  mountains,  but  found 
the  trail  exceedingly  difficult,  on  account  of  the  abrupt- 
ness of  the  ascending  and  descending,  and  the  numerous 
large  trees  that  had  fallen  across  it.  This  rendered 
their  progress  very  slow,  and  the  third  night  they 
encamped  in  a  deep,  dark  valley,  among  the  mountains, 
twelve  miles  from  the  shore.  During  the  night  it  was 
very  rainy,  and  also  the  following  day  ;  but  they  moved 
camp  in  the  morning,  and  at  5  p.  m.  pitched  their  tent 
in  a  beautiful  cypress  grove,  within  a  short  distance  of 
the  shore,  so  that  their  encampment  commanded  a  fine 
view  of  the  broad  expanse  of  the  Pacific  ocean. 

Here  they  continued  for  one  week,  visiting  the  Kille- 
mook  Indians,  who  inhabit  that  portion  of  the  country, 
and  preaching  to  them  as  they  were  able.  They 
enjoyed  the  clams  and  other  shell-fish,  which  they  pro- 
cured from  the  delightful  sandy  beach,  and  invigorated 
themselves  by  frequent  bathing  in  the  salt  water.  On 
the  26th,  they  left  their  pleasant  encampment,  and  after 
four  days'  toil  in  crossing  the  mountains,  jumping  the 
logs,  fording  the  streams,  and  traveling  over  the  prai- 
ries, they  arrived  at  the  mission,  after  an  absence  of 
sixteen  days.  They  were  better  qualified,  from  the 
improvement  of  their  health,  to  pursue  the  business  of 
their  calling. 

On  the  4th  of  September  following,  Mr.  Daniel  Lee 
and  Mr.  Shepard  started  for  Vancouver  on  business, 
and  arrived  there  on  the  6th.  On  the  following  day,  a 
canoe  arrived  at  Vancouver,  direct  from  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  bringing  the  Rev.  Daniel  Leslie  and  Rev.  H. 


28  HISTORY    OP 

K.  W.  Perkins,  who  had  recently  entered  the  river,  in 
the  ship  Sumatra.  They,  with  Mrs.  Leshe  and  three 
children,  and  Miss  Margaret  Smith,  constituted  a  second 
reinforcement  to  the  Oregon  mission.  They  sailed  from 
Boston  on  the  20th  of  January,  1837,  and  reached  the 
place  of  their  destination,  on  the  Wallamette  river,  the 
20th  of  September.  Soon  after  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Per- 
kins, a  union  betwixt  himself  and  Miss  Elvira  Johnson, 
who  came  out  in  the  former  reinforcement,  which  had 
been  long  in  contemplation,  was  consummated.  They 
were  married  on  the  21st  of  November,  1837,  by  Rev. 
David  Leslie. 

On  the  25th  of  December,  a  general  meeting  was 
called  at  the  mission  house,  and  an  Oregon  Missionary 
Society  was  formed.  A  liberal  subscription  was  raised, 
to  be  expended  the  ensuing  year,  for  the  benefit  of  the 
Calapooa  Indians. 

At  the  close  of  this  year,  the  missionaries  were  all 
residing  at  or  near  the  Wallamette  station,  and  were 
laboring  in  their  respective  departments,  not  without 
effect,  some  in  sustaining  the  interests  of  the  mission 
school,  some  in  preaching  to  the  Calapooas,  and  the 
white  settlements,  some  in  different  mechanical  branches, 
and  some  in  taking  care  of  the  farm  and  the  rapidly 
increasing  stock  of  cattle  and  horses.  Several  members 
of  the  mission  school  had  died  during  the  year,  and 
mortal  diseases  unceasingly  prevailed  among  the  Indians 
throughout  the  country;  yet,  in  view  of  all  the  circum- 
stances of  the  case,  the  missionaries  were  encouraged, 
and  began  to  take  measures  for  the  enlargement  of  their 
operations. 

Attending  to  the  interests  of  the  temperance  cause, 
Mr.  J.  Lee  set  out,  soon  after  the  1st  of  January,  on  an 
exploring  tour  to  the  Umpqua  country,  in  company  with 
Mr.  Birnie,  one  of  the  traders  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company.  This  country  lies  some  two  hundred  miles 
south  of  Vancouver,  and  it  was  reported  to  contain 
several  thousand  Indians,  and  as  offering  a  fine  field  for 
missionary  operations.  The  late  rains  had  swollen  the 
rivers  and  creeks  to  such  a  degree,  that  it  was  almost 


THE    OREGON    MISSION.  29 

impossible  for  Mr.  Lee  to  proceed;  yet,  after  several 
days  of  toilsome  and  dangerous  journeying,  through  the 
mud  and  rain,  and  fording  the  rapid  streams  that  crossed 
his  path,  he  succeeded  in  reaching  the  trading  post  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  situated  on  the  Umpqua 
river,  forty  miles  above  its  mouth.  The  information  he 
received  here  was  of  an  encouraging  nature,  and  such 
was  the  difficulty  of  traveling,  that  he  resolved  to 
extend  his  observations  no  farther.  Accordingly  he 
returned  to  the  Wallamette,  where  he  arrived  on  the 
11th  of  March,  1838,  under  the  impression  that,  so  soon 
as  a  competency  of  missionaries  could  be  provided,  a 
station  should  be  established  somewhere  in  the  Umpqua 
valley. 

About  this  time,  a  meeting  of  all  the  missionaries, 
preachers,  and  laymen  was  called,  to  consult  on  the 
subject  of  establishing  a  new  station;  and,  after  the 
merits  of  several  portions  of  the  country  were  presented, 
it  was  unanimously  resolved,  that  a  mission  be  com- 
menced at  the  Balls,  on  the  Columbia  river,  about  ninety 
miles  above  Vancouver.  Daniel  Lee  and  H.  K.  W. 
Perkins  were  appointed  by  the  superintendent  to  the 
new  mission.  They  left  the  Wallamette  station,  to 
repair  to  their  new  field,  on  the  14th  of  March,  Mr. 
Perkins  leaving  his  wife  behind,  until  they  could  make 
arrangements  for  the  convenience  of  a  family. 

Before  Daniel  Lee  and  Mr.  Perkins  left  the  Walla- 
mette, a  general  consultation  was  held  on  the  subject  of 
a  still  greater  enlargement  of  the  missionary  work,  in 
Oregon.  In  the  estimation  of  the  meeting,  "the  harvest 
was  plenteous  and  the  laborers  were  few."  The  Umpqua, 
Killamook,  Klikitat,  Clatsop,  Chenook,  Nezqualy,  and 
many  other  tribes,  were  destitute  of  missionaries  ;  and 
in  view  of  these  different  stations,  and  the  general  wants 
of  the  country,  they  passed  a  unanimous  resolution,  ad- 
vising the  Rev.  Jason  Lee  to  make  a  visit  to  the  United 
States  for  the  purpose  of  representing  before  the  Board 
of  Managers  of  the  Missionary  Society  of  the  M.  E. 
Church  and  the  public  generally,  the  true  condition  of 
the  country,  and  of  the  Indians,  and  soliciting  the  men 


30  HISTORY    OF 

and  means  which,  in  their  judgment,  were  necessary, 
for  the  successful  prosecution  of  the  missionary  work. 

Mr.  Lee  concurred  in  the  opinions  thus  expressed  by 
the  members  of  the  mission,  and  accordingly  took  leave 
of  his  wife  and  brethren  on  the  Wallamette,  on  the  26th 
day  of  March,  1838,  and  commenced  the  long  and 
hazardous  journey  back  across  the  Rocky  mountains. 
He  was  accompanied  by  P.  L.  Edwards,  of  the  mission, 
a  Mr.  Ewing,  of  Missouri,  and  two  Indian  boys  of  the 
Chenook  tribe,  called  Wm.  Brooks  and  Thos.  Adams. 
It  was  a  trying  scene  when  Mr.  Lee  took  his  departure 
from  his  companions  in  labor  and  suffering  in  Oregon, 
and  the  more  so  from  the  consideration  that  he  was 
leaving  his  beloved  wife,  to  whom  he  had  been  married 
less  than  a  year  ;  but  in  his  opinion,  it  was  his  duty  to 
return,  and  call  for  fellow-laborers  ;  and,  though  worldly 
interests  and  enjoyments  demanded  his  continuance  in 
Oregon,  yet  he  practised  on  the  principle,  that  all  such 
things  should  give  place  to  considerations  of  duty. 

It  was  the  first  of  April  before  Mr.  Lee  found  himself 
prepared  to  take  his  departure  from  Vancouver,  towards 
the  Rocky  mountains  ;  but  before  we  follow  him  in  his 
toilsome  and  perilous  journey  home,  we  will  contem- 
plate some  of  the  circumstances  which  were  transpiring 
among  those  whom  he  had  left  in  the  valley  of  Oregon. 

On  the  21st  of  April  Rev.  H.  K.  W.  Perkins  arrived 
at  the  mission  from  the  Balls,  and  brought  a  favorable 
report  from  the  new  station.  The  Indians  are  known 
by  the  name  of  the  Wasco  tribe,  and  they  call  the  place 
where  they  live,  Wascopam.  They  were  found  to 
number  from  twelve  to  fifteen  hundred ;  were  much 
pleased  with  the  idea  of  the  establishment  of  a  mission 
among  them,  and  were  willing  to  assist  in  preparing  a 
place  for  the  accommodation  of  the  missionaries. 

On  the  26th  of  April,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Perkins  left  the 
Wallamette  in  a  canoe  manned  by  Indians,  to  take  up 
their  residence  at  Wascopam.  The  voyage  from  the 
Wallamette  station  to  the  Balls,  was  first  down  the 
Wallamette  river  the  distance  of  seventy  miles  to  its 
mouth,  and  then  up  the  Columbia  river  the  distance  of 


THE    OREGON    MlSSIONi.  31 

ninety-five  miles.  Both  rivers  are  dangerous,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  numerous  rapids,  but  after  several  days 
of  exposure  and  fatigue,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Perkins  arrived 
in  safety  at  the  Dalls,  and  by  the  assistance  of  Mr.  D. 
Lee  and  the  Indians,  soon  established  themselves  in 
comfortable  quarters.  Mr.  D.  Lee  had  already  acquired 
a  knowledge  of  the  Chenook  language  as  spoken  in  the 
vicinity  of  Vancouver,  v^hich  the  Wascoes  generally 
understood,  and  could  preach  immediately  to  the  Indians 
without  the  aid  of  an  interpreter.  As  the  Walla- Walla 
tribe  was  contiguous,  and  their  language  understood  by 
many  of  the  Dalls  Indians,  Mr.  Perkins,  in  addition  to 
learning  the  Chenook,  applied  himself  to  the  acquire- 
ment of  the  Walla- Walla,  and  it  was  not  long  before  he 
could  preach  to  the  Indians  in  both  languages.  The 
plan  adopted  was  to  circulate  among  the  Indians,  and 
preach  to  them  wherever  they  could  be  found ;  and 
from  the  reception  which  the  missionaries  met,  and  the 
apparent  attention  given  to  the  gospel,  seldom  was  there 
ever  an  Indian  mission  established  under  more  favorable 
auspices. 

Things  moved  on  quite  prosperously  in  all  the  depart- 
ments, under  the  direction  of  Rev.  David  Leslie,  whom 
Mr.  Jason  Lee  had  appointed  his  substitute  during  his 
absence,  until  the  26th  day  of  June,  when  an  event 
transpired  among  the  little  band  on  the  Wallamette, 
which,  from  the  circumstances  attending  it,  threw  a 
gloom  over  the  hitherto  cheering  aspects  of  the  mission. 
Ann  Maria,  wife  of  the  Rev.  Jason  Lee,  gave  birth  to  a 
son  on  the  6th  of  June,  which  she  was  doomed  to  see 
expire  a  few  days  afterwards.  At  the  time  of  its  death 
unfavorable  symptoms  appeared  in  Mrs.  Lee,  and  on 
Tuesday,  the  26th,  at  six  o'clock  A.  M.,  she  calmly  closed 
her  eyes  in  death.  The  following  day  the  afflicted  band 
of  missionaries  committed  to  the  grave  the  remains  of 
this  youthful  mother,  with  her  httle  son  clasped  in  her 
arms.  When  this  took  place  Mr.  Lee  had  been  absent 
three  months,  and  was  far  on  his  way  to  the  United 
States  ;  but  through  the  kindness  of  Dr.  McLaughlin, 
an  express  was  sent  off  immediately,  to  carry  to  Mr. 


32  HISTORY    OF 

Lee  the  sad  tidings  of  the  death  of  his  companion.  It 
was  about  the  first  of  September  when  Mr.  Lee  arrived 
at  the  Methodist  mission  among  the  Shawnees,  on  the 
frontiers  of  Missouri,  then  under  the  superintendence 
of  Rev.  Mr.  Johnson,  and  having  retired  to  his  room, 
late  in  the  evening,  he  was  offering  up  a  tribute  of 
thanksgiving  to  Him  who  had  been  his  preserver  while 
on  his  toilsome  journey  through  the  hostile  tribes  of  the 
mountains,  when  he  heard  a  rap  at  his  door.  Rising,  he 
admitted  the  stranger,  who  placed  a  package  of  letters 
in  his  hands,  and  immediately  left  the  room.  He  broke 
the  black  seal  of  one,  and  the  first  line  conveyed  to  him 
the  heart-rending  intelligence  that  his  Ann  Maria,  and 
her  little  son,  were  numbered  with  the  dead.  Leaving 
the  afflicted  missionary  to  indulge  his  grief  alone,  we 
return  to  review  other  scenes  in  the  valley  of  the 
Columbia. 

On  the  14th  da,y  of  August,  information  w^as  received 
in  the  Wallamette,  that  Mrs.  Perkins,  at  the  Balls,  was 
very  sick,  and  stood  in  great  need  of  medical  aid,  and 
other  assistance.  Accordingly  Rev.  D.  Leslie,  Dr.  L 
Bailey,  and  Mrs.  White  with  her  little  daughter  then 
eight  months  old,  embarked  for  the  Dalls  in  a  canoe 
manned  by  Indians,  and  six  days  afterward  arrived 
there  in  safety.  In  the  mean  time  Dr.  Whitman,  from 
the  mission  in  the  interior,  had  visited  Mrs.  P.,  and 
when  the  company  arrived  froni  the  Wallamette,  her 
health  was  nearly  restored  ;  consequently,  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  22nd,  Mr.  Leslie  and  Mrs.  White  left  the 
Dalls  to  return  home.  They  descended  the  Columbia 
to  the  cascades  the  first  day,  and  the  next  morning 
made  a  portage  of  some  three  miles,  and  again  all 
were  seated  quietly  in  the  canoe,  and  the  Indians  struck 
out  into  the  strong  current.  Below  them  were  rapids 
which,  in  consequence  of  the  high  water,  were  worse 
than  they  anticipated.  The  river  at  this  place  is  about 
one  mile  and  a  half  wide,  and  the  canoe  was  about  one- 
third  of  a  mile  from  the  nearest  shore.  They  saw  the 
dashing  of  the  waters  before  them,  but  such  was  the 
strength  of  the  current  that  already  bore  them  down, 


THE    OREGON    MISSION.  33 

that  it  was  impossible  to  shun  the  dangerous  point. 
Soon  the  canoe  was  carried  among  the  rolHng  surges, 
filled,  capsized,  and  instantly  all  were  plunged  into  the 
frightful  gulph.  Mr.  Leslie,  on  rising  to  the  surface  of 
the  river,  thought  of  Mrs.  White,  and  seeing  her  be- 
neath his  feet,  immediately  plunged  after  her,  if  possible 
to  bring  her  to  the  surface.  He  caught  hold  of  her 
clothes,  and  came  up  to  the  surface,  struggled  for  a 
moment  to  keep  her  above  the  water,  but  was  obliged 
to  relinquish  his  hold.  He  now  thought  that  by  giving 
her  up  he  might  possibly  save  his  own  hfe,  but  it  then 
occurred  to  him  that  she  was  entrusted  to  his  care,  and 
at  once  resolving  to  do  his  best  to  save  her  if  he  died  in 
the  attempt,  plunged  after  her  again,  and  seizing  her 
clothes,  brought  her  to  the  surface.  Discovering  the 
canoe  drifting  but  a  short  distance  from  him,  bottom  up, 
he  soon  regained  it,  and  got  hold  of  the  hand  of  an  Indian, 
who  had  risen  on  the  other  side  of  the  canoe,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  keeping  the  head  of  Mrs.  White  above  the 
water.  By  this  time  they  had  been  carried  by  the 
current  partly  across  the  river  towards  the  farther 
shore;  and  fortunately  some  Indians  were  on  that  side 
with  a  canoe,  who,  on  discovering  their  situation,  imme- 
diately put  off  to  their  relief.  These  friendly  natives 
took  them  into  their  canoe,  and  then  taking  the  capsized 
canoe  in  tow,  succeeded  in  gaining  the  shore.  All  were 
safe  but  the  babe;  that  was  missing,  but  on  righting  the 
canoe,  it  was  found  to  have  drifted  along  with  it  to  the 
shore,  but  the  vital  spark  had  fled.  They  were  forty 
miles  distant  from  a  civilized  habitation,  but  the  Indians 
kindly  profiered  to  take  them  into  their  canoe,  and 
carry  them  down  to  Vancouver.  Wrapped  in  their 
wet  blankets,  with  the  corpse  of  the  Httle  infant  lying 
in  one  part  of  their  canoe,  they  descended  to  that  place, 
where  they  had  all  the  assistance  afforded  them  which 
sympathy  could  devise,  or  their  distressed  circumstances 
demand.  On  Friday,  the  24th,  they  left  Vancouver,  and 
on  Satui'day  evening  they  arrived  at  the  Wallamette, 
and  the  following  day  deposited  the  body  of  the  infant 
in  the  mission  burving  grounds,  Mr.  Leslie  improving 
2 


34  HISTORY    OF 

the  occasion  by  an  appropriate  discourse  founded  on 
Deut.  viii.  6:  ^*0,  how  wonderful  in  working  is  our 
God,  and  his  ways  past  finding  out. " 

Thus  the  missionaries  were  constantly  exposed.  If 
they  passed  from  one  portion  of  the  country  to  another, 
they  were  obliged  to  commit  themselves  in  their  frail 
craft,  to  the  treacherous  element,  or  travel  by  land 
through  hostile  tribes  of  savages. 

Mr.  Grey,  of  the  mission  in  the  interior,  made  about 
this  time  a  hair  breadth  escape.  While  on  his  way 
from  the  Rocky  mountains  to  Missouri,  with  one  or 
two  white  men  and  a  number  of  Indians,  he  was  attacked 
by  a  band  of  Sioux  warriors  ;  his  Indians  were  all 
killed,  and  himself  w^as  twice  wounded  by  musket  balls. 
While  he  and  the  white  men  with  him  were  making 
their  escape  on  horseback,  across  a  river,  the  Indians 
fired  at  them  from  the  shore,  and  a  ball  passed  through 
the  hat  of  Mr.  Grey,  cutting  the  hair  from  the  top  of 
his  head.  The  white  men  escaped  with  one  horse 
apiece,  having  been  robbed  of  every  thing  besides. 

About  the  first  of  September,  Rev.  Daniel  Lee  left 
the  Dalls  with  a  party  of  Indians,  to  go  to  the  Walla- 
mette  station  by  land  across  the  Cascade  mountains,  to 
ascertain  whether  it  would  be  practicable  to  drive  back 
a  small  band  of  cattle  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
mission  farm.  Supposing  that  a  week  would  be  the 
longest  time  that  it  would  require  to  perform  the  jour- 
ney, he  took  provisions  to  last  him  only  during  that 
time  ;  but  in  consequence  of  the  extreme  difficulty  of 
the  traveling  through  the  dense  thickets,  over  the  high 
mountains,  up  and  down  the  precipices,  and  fording  the 
rapid  streams,  it  required  twice  as  long  as  he  antici- 
pated. Consequently  they  consumed  all  their  provisions, 
and  after  going  hungry  for  some  length  of  time,  they 
were  driven  to  the  necessity  of  killing  a  poor,  jaded 
horse,  on  the  flesh  of  which  they  supported  themselves 
till  they  arrived  at  the  Clakamas,  where  they  procured 
salmon,  having  consumed  the  last  morsel  of  their  horse 
that  very  day.  Not  at  all  discouraged  by  these  diffi- 
culties, Mr.  Lee   resolved  to  drive  the  caUle  through, 


THE    OREGON    MISSION.  35 

and  engaging  two  men  from  the  settlement  to  accompany 
him,  he  started  with  his  band  on  the  26th  of  September. 
After  ten  days  of  excessive  labor  and  fatigue,  he  arrived 
safely  at  Wascopam  without  loss.  This  measure  for 
stocking  the  little  farm  they  had  opened  at  the  Dalls, 
was  adopted  by  the  missionaries  for  the  purpose  of 
securing,  at  less  expense,  the  means  of  subsistence. 

In  the  month  of  December  of  this  year  the  Rev.  D. 
Leslie  had  the  misfortune  of  losing  his  house,  and  most 
of  his  furniture,  bedding,  clothing,  &c.,  by  fire.  This 
loss  was  the  more  severely  felt,  as  it  was  difficult  in  that 
new  country  to  replace  the  articles  destroyed. 

At  the  close  of  this  year  the  mission  school  under  the 
care  of  Cyrus  Shepard,  had  increased  to  nearly  forty 
scholars,  notwithstanding  the  fearful  mortality  that 
reigned  among  the  children.  About  one-third  of  all 
that  had  been  received  up  to  this  period,  had  died,  and 
most  of  the  remainder  were  in  a  sickly  condition.  At 
this  time  Mr.  Shepard  was  obliged  to  give  up  the  care 
of  the  school,  in  consequence  of  personal  affliction.  A 
swelling  appeared  on  one  of  his  knees,  which  at  first 
created  but  httle  concern,  but  at  length  assumed  a  very 
alarming  aspect.  All  the  medical  and  surgical  skill  of 
the  country  were  expended  upon  him  to  no  purpose  ; 
the  limb  was  amputated,  but  it  was  too  late  to  save  life. 
Death  ensued  a  short  time  after  the  operation.  In  Mr. 
Shepard  the  mission  lost  one  of  its  most  valuable  mem- 
bers, a  fond  wife  was  bereft  of  a  kind  and  faithful 
companion,  and  two  little  girls  were  rendered  fatherless. 

Soon  after  this  event,  by  an  arrangement  of  the  mis- 
sion, Dr.  Elijah  White  connected  with  his  professional 
duties,  the  care  of  the  mission  school ;  and  the  business 
of  the  various  departments  proceeded  as  usual  through 
the  winter. 

At  the  Dalls  a  great  religious  excitement  prevailed 
among  the  Indians  through  the  labors  of  D.  Lee  and  H. 
K.  W.  Perkins.  This  excitement  extended  fifty  or 
seventy-five  miles  along  the  Columbia  river,  chiefly 
among  the  Wasco  and  Chenook  Indians,  of  whom  more 
than  one  thousand  hi  the  course  of  a  few  weeks  appa- 


36  HISTORY    OF 

rently  embraced  the  christian  rehgion.  Such  were  the 
evidences  of  a  genuine  change  in  these  Indians,  that  the 
missionaries,  after  witnessing  their  praying  habits  for  a 
few  weeks,  baptized  them,  and  received  them  formally 
into  the  church.  They  were  then  formed  into  classes, 
and  stated  preaching  was  established  in  the  different 
villages  where  they  resided  ;  and  for  the  time  being  the 
hearts  of  the  missionaries  were  encouraged,  from  be- 
holding the  apparently  happy  success  with  w^hich  their 
labors  were  crowned. 

On  the  Wallamette  also,  under  the  labors  of  Rev.  D. 
Leslie,  a  revival  of  religion  took  place  among  the  white 
settlers,  the  Hawaiians,  who  were  in  the  employment  of 
the  mission,  and  the  Indians  connected  with  the  mission 
school.  A  number  of  each  class  were  converted  and 
received  into  the  church. 

While  these  things  were  transpiring  in  Oregon,  Rev. 
J.  Lee  was  zealously  employed  in  accomphshing  the 
objects  of  his  visit  to  the  United  States.  He  arrived  in 
the  city  of  New  York  about  the  first  of  November,  and 
on  the  14th  he  was  present  at  a  meeting  of  the  Mission- 
ary Board,  and  stated  at  length  the  object  of  his  visit. 
He  urged  with  much  earnestness  the  importance  of 
extending  the  missionary  work  in  Oregon  ;  and  in  view 
of  this  he  plead  with  great  zeal  the  necessity  of  sending 
to  that  country  a  large  reinforcement.  In  his  opinion  it 
was  essential,  for  the  prosperity  of  the  mission,  to  sup- 
ply it  with  the  requisite  means  to  furnish  itself  with 
food,  buildings,  etc.  ;  and  all  the  necessary  implements 
for  husbandry,  and  mechanical  purposes,  should  be  sent 
out  by  the  Board.  To  meet  all  these  demands  would 
require  a  very  heavy  outlay,  and  for  this  and  some  other 
reasons,  Mr.  Lee  met  with  warm  opposition  from  some 
of  the  members  of  the  Board,  who  sincerely  doubted 
the  expediency  of  the  measure  ;  but  the  superintendent, 
who  had  just  come  from  the  field  of  operation,  perse- 
veringly  and  powerfully  urged  the  claims  of  the  mission, 
and,  sustained  by  Dr.  Fisk,  Dr.  Bangs  and  others,  finally 
succeeded  in  obtaining  from  the  Board  all,  yea  more 
than  he  demanded ;   for  in  his  opinion  but  two  ministers 


THE    OREGON    MISSION.  37 

were  required,  but  in  the  estimation  of  a  majority  of 
the  Board,  if  there  were  to  be  as  many  laymen  sent  out 
as  Mr.  Lee  called  for,  two  ministers  would  not  be  suffi- 
cient. Accordingly,  on  the  6th  of  December,  1838,  the 
Board  passed  a  resolution  to  send  to  Oregon  five  addi- 
tional missionaries,  one  physician,  six  mechanics,  four 
farmers,  one  missionary  steward,  and  four  female  teach- 
ers ;  making  in  all  thirty-six  adult  persons.  These 
were  all  selected  and  appointed  within  a  few  months,  the 
laymen  by  Dr.  Bangs  and  Mr.  Lee,  and  the  missionaries 
by  the  Bishop  having  charge  of  the  Foreign  missions. 
The  appointments  took  place  from  various  parts  of  the 
United  States,  the  New  England,  NewYork,  Troy,  Gene- 
sec,  Illinois,  and  North  Carolina  Conferences  contributing 
more  or  less,  to  make  the  numbers  of  the  reinforcement 
complete.  During  the  summer  of  1839,  Mr.  Lee,  at- 
tended by  Wm.  Brooks  and  Thomas  Adams,  the  two 
Indian  boys  whom  he  brought  with  him,  traveled  quite 
extensively  through  the  New  England  and  Middle 
States,  holding  missionary  meetings  in  all  the  important 
places,  and  collecting  funds  for  the  Oregon  mission. 
His  success  was  unparalleled,  and  an  interest  was  excited 
throughout  the  land  amounting  to  enthusiasm.  Crowds 
thronged  to  see  and  hear  the  pioneer  missionary  beyond 
the  Rocky  mountains,  and  the  converted  Indians  who 
accompanied  him.  Liberal  collections  were  taken  up 
for  the  Oregon  mission  in  almost  every  place,  and  these, 
with  the  appropriations  of  the  Board  for  the  purchase  of 
goods,  amounted  to  forty  thousand  dollars.  Furnished 
with  all  kinds  of  tools  for  agricultural  and  mechanical 
purposes,  and  with  the  necessary  articles  for  the  con- 
struction of  a  saw-mill  and  grist-mill,  the  great  rein- 
forcement, with  Mr.  Lee  at  their  head,  at  length  found 
themselves  ready  for  sea. 


CHAPTER   11. 

Journal  of  a  voyage  from  New  York  to  Oregon  — Time  and  circumstances  of  departure 

—  First  evening  — Last  look  at  the  Highlands —  Initiatory  rites  —  Great  distress 

—  Sea-sickness  indescribable  —  Fourth  day  —  Captain  Spaulding  —  First  and 
second  officers  —  Passengers  in  the  cabin  —  Character  of  the  expedition  —  First 
Sabbath  at  sea  —  Police  regulations  —  A  rich  treat  —  Centenary  meeting  —  Results 

—  Vessel  ships  a  sea  —  Wind  mcreases  —  Tremendous  gale  —  North- East  trade  — 
Description  of  the  trades  —  Whale  —  Allowance  of  Water  —  Porpoise  —  Vessel  — 
Amusing  surprise  —  Astronomy  —  Northern  constellations  —  Magellanic  clouds  — 
Interesting  Sabbath  —  Land,  ho  !  —  Cape   Frio  —  Lighthouse  —  Splendid  scenery 

—  Arrival  at  Rio  de  Janeiro  —  Historical  sketch  —  Don  John  —  Brazil  indepen- 
dent —  Don  Pedro  the  first  —  Compelled  to  abdicate  —  State  of  the  country  — 
Foreign  residents  —  Religion  —  City  —  Buildings  —  Missionaries  —  Slavery  —  Re- 
flections. 

It  was  in  the  evening  of  the  9th  day  of  October,  1839, 
that  a  company  of  fifty-two  persons,  sixteen  of  whom 
were  children,  were  collected  together  on  the  quarter 
deck  of  the  ship  Lausanne,  which  then  lay  quietly  in  the 
bight,  betwixt  the  east  coast  of  New  Jersey  and  Sandy 
Hook.  The  preceding  day  had  been  one  of  most  thrill- 
ing interest  to  every  person  composing  that  excited, 
though  confiding,  group.  They  had  bidden,  as  they  all 
then  supposed,  a  last  adieu  to  the  land  of  their  nativity; 
and  all  the  endearing  ties  that  bound  them  to  home  and 
friends,  had  been  surrendered.  In  their  hearts  burned 
an  intense  desire  to  become  the  instruments  of  intro- 
ducing the  blessnigs  of  religion  and  civilization,  to  the 
benighted  heathen  in  a  foreign  land;  and  for  this  purpose 
they  had  resolved  upon  braving  the  dangers  of  the  deep, 
and  to  endure  the  difficulties  and  deprivations  incident  to 
a  residence  in  a  heathen  land. 

It  fell  to  the  lot  of  the  writer  to  be  associated  with 
this  self-denying  band,  to  mingle  with  them  while  they 
lingered  on  their  native  shore,  as  if  loth  to  make  the 
sacrifice,  to  witness  them,  as,  at  the  given  signal,  they 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON,  39 

hastened  to  commit  themselves  to  that  frail  bark,  which 
was  destined  to  become  their  prison  home  for  so  many- 
tedious  days  and  stormy  nights,  and,  with  them,  to  share 
the  perils  of  a  voyage  of  more  than  twenty-two  thousand 
miles. 

Before  we  take  our  departure  from  Sandy  Hook,  the 
reader  w^ill  expect  to  be  entertained  with  some  of  the 
principal  events  which  took  place  the  day  preceding  the 
evening  on  which  these  voluntary  exiles  were  for  the 
first  time  assembled  on  the  deck  of  the  Lausa.nne. 

The  m.orning  rose  beautiful  and  serene,  with  not  a 
cloud  to  obscure  the  rising  sun,  and  not  a  breath  of 
wind  to  ruffle  the  surface  of  the  waters.  It  was  at  nine 
o'clock  of  this  day,  when,  by  a  previous  arrangement, 
the  mission  family,  attended  by  their  beloved  friends  of 
New  York  and  vicinity,  assembled  at  White  Hall  Dock, 
at  the  foot  of  Broadway,  where  lay  the  steamboat  Her- 
cules, which  had  been  engaged  to  take  the  passengers  to 
the  Lausanne,  which  then  lay  in  East  River,  and  then 
to  tow  the  ship  down  through  the  Narrow^s,  into  the 
vicinity  of  Sandy  HooL  Two  hundred  and  fifty  per- 
sons, who  had  endeared  themselves  to  our  hearts  by 
their  kindness  and  solicitude  for  our  welfare,  accom- 
panied us  on  the  steamboat,  when  we  embarked,  and 
among  them  were  the  Rev.  N.  Bangs,  D.  D.,  and  the 
Rev.  Dr.  Anderson,  the  former  being  the  secretary  of 
the  Missionary  Society  of  the  M.  E.  C,  and  the  latter, 
the  secretary  of  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M. 

It  was  precisely  fifteen  minutes  past  ten  o'clock,  when 
the  signal  was  given  for  the  boat  to  leave  the  wharf, 
and,  in  a  few  moments,  we  were  along  side  the  Lausanne, 
while  the  multitude  that  lined  the  shore,  were  invoking 
many  blessings  on  our  entei'prise,  and  by  words  and 
signs  were  bidding  us  a  last  farewell. 

The  ship  was  immediately  fastened  to  the  boat,  and 
we  were  speedily  gliding  down  the  beautiful  harbor  of 
New  York,  first  looking  back  upon  the  city,  whose 
hundred  gilded  steeples  were  flashing  in  the  sun  light, 
and  then  upon  immense  shipping,  crowded  for  miles  up^ 
and  down  the  East  and  North  rivers;  now  looking  for 


40  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

a  moment  upon  Castle  Garden,  Governor's  Island,  the 
North  CaroUna  seventy-four,  Brooklyn,  the  Fort,  and 
then  upon  the  Jersey  shore.  Long  Island  coast,  Staten 
Island,  v^^ith  all  its  delightful  scenery;  and  every  thing 
within  the  range  of  our  vision  was  gazed  upon  with  so 
much  the  more  interest,  as  they  belonged  to  our  own 
native  country,  and,  in  all  probability,  we  were  to  see 
them  no  more. 

The  time  that  elapsed  from  our  leaving  the  wharf,  till 
the  steamboat  left  us  to  return,  was  full  of  deep  and 
lively  interest.  The  conversation  was  fraught  with  the 
most  intense  feeling  and  anxiety,  which  were  manifested 
ever  and  anon,  by  floods  of  tears,  and  expressions  of  the 
most  ardent  wishes  for  our  welfare  and  success.  The 
hymns  that  were  sung  were  remarkably  appropriate,  and 
tended  to  increase  the  flame  already  burning  on  the  altar 
of  every  heart.  The  religious  services,  conducted  by 
Dr.  Bangs,  Dr.  Anderson,  and  the  ReV.  Mr.  Davis, 
were  pecuHarly  solemn  and  affecting,  and  closed  by  the 
baptism  of  the  infant  son  of  the  Rev.  J.  P.  Richmond, 
who  was  christened  "  Oregon,"  the  name  of  the  country 
to  which  we  were  bound.  While  yet  the  impressions 
which  these  services  had  made  upon  all  present  were 
the  most  lively  and  tender,  it  was  announced  that  the 
two  vessels  must  separate.  At  this  time  all  the  missiona- 
ries, with  their  attendants,  were  on  the  steamboat.  We 
had  passed  the  Narrows,  and  were  rapidly  approaching 
Sandy  Hook,  when  the  parting  scene  commenced.  Now 
parents  and  children,  brothers  and  sisters,  and  friends 
and  acquaintances,  embraced  each  other  for  the  last 
time  on  earth,  and  amidst  tears,  prayers  and  farewells, 
the  missionaries  passed  from  the  boat  to  the  deck  of  the 
Lausanne.  The  grapplings  were  immediately  cast  off*, 
and  the  Hercules  sailed  gracefully  around  us,  while  from 
each  deck  the  emblems  of  purity  and  affection,  snow 
white  handkerchiefs,  were  fluttering  in  the  air,  until  by 
a  point  of  Long  Island,  at  the  Narrows,  the  vessels  were 
hidden  from  each  other's  sight. 

Though  there  was  no  wind  to  favor  us,  an  ebb  tide 
carried  us  slowly  down  to  the  usual  anchorage,  inside  of 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  41 

Sandy  Hook,  where  we  were  glad  to  have  a  Uttle  time 
to  arrange  our  cabin  and  state  room  affairs,  before  going 
to  sea. 

The  evening  of  the  day  of  embarkation  was  serene 
and  peaceful,  and  after  the  stirring  events  of  the  day  had 
been  rehearsed  by  the  passengers  assembled  on  the  deck 
of  our  noble  vessel,  all  repaired  quietly  to  their  berths, 
and,  after  a  good  night's  rest,  arose  on  the  morning  of 
the  10th  of  October,  in  good  health  and  spirits,  for  their 
voyage.  At  half  past  six  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we 
weighed  anchor,  and  spreading  our  canvass  to  a  gentle 
western  breeze,  were  carried  majestically  past  the  Hook, 
and  were  soon  tossed  upon  the  waves  of  the  broad 
Atlantic. 

The  passengers  were  all  immediately  called  upon  to 
perform  the  initiatory  rites  to  which  all  have  to  submit, 
who,  for  the  first  time,  invade  the  dominions  of  Neptune. 
This,  however,  did  not  prevent  many  from  taking  a  last 
look  of  the  Highlands  of  Never  Sink,  which  disappeared 
in  the  smoky  distance  at  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon 
of  the  first  day.  In  passing  through  this  terrible  ordeal 
of  initiation,  there  are  occasional  intervals  of  relaxation, 
and  on  Sunday,  the  13th,  the  "North-Easter,"  which  had 
been  blowing  from  the  first  day  out,  lulled ;  a  calm  suc- 
ceeded, and  operated  like  a  charm  upon  the  sick  inmates 
of  the  Lausanne ;  for  all  so  far  recovered  as  to  be  able 
to  present  themselves  on  the  quarter  deck. 

As  we  are  now  on  the  fourth  day  out  fairly  under 
way,  having  lost  sight  of  land,  and  experienced  one 
severe  storm,  and,  for  the  first  lime  since  leaving  Sandy 
Hook,  collected  on  the  deck  of  the  vessel,  the  reader 
will  expect  a  more  particular  account  of  the  company 
to  w^hich,  collectively,  he  has  already  been  introduced. 
Embracing  the  officers  and  crew,  there  were  seventy- 
five  souls  on  board,  fifty-three  of  whom  were  passengers. 
The  ship  was  commanded  by  Capt.  Spaulding,  who  had 
been  employed  by  the  owners,  Farnham  &  Fry,  in 
view  of  his  qualifications,  to  take  charge  of  such  an 
expedition,  for  so  long  a  voyage.  Twenty  years'  expe- 
rience as  master  of  a  vessel,  had  established  the  captain's 
2* 


42  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

reputation  as  a  skillful  navigator,  which,  in  connexion 
with  his  general  kuidness  to  the  passengers,  and  his 
efforts  to  make  them  as  comfortable  as  their  crowded 
condition  on  the  vessel  would  admit,  proves  that  the 
selection,  if  not  the  best  that  could  have  been  made, 
was  as  good  as  could  have  been  reasonably  expected. 
The  first  and  second  mates,  though  wanting  in  strict 
morality,  were  excellent  seamen,  and  well  understood 
the  business  of  navigation.  The  second  mate,  Mr. 
Coffin,  had  performed  eight  voyages  around  Cape  Horn. 

The  crew  were  composed  of  English,  Americans, 
Irish,  Germans,  Danes,  and  Swedes.  This  variety  was 
selected,  as  the  captain  said,  because  among  such  a 
crew  it  is  less  difficult  to  preserve  order,  than  it  is  with 
a  crew  exclusively  Americans. 

Finding  ourselves  thus  officered  and  manned,  and 
witnessing  the  management  of  our  vessel  through  one 
protracted  storm,  we  concluded  that,  extraordinaries 
excepted,  we  should  be  conducted  in  safety  to  the  land 
of  our  destination. 

The  passengers  in  the  cabin,  embracing,  children, 
numbered  fifty-four.  Of  these  eight  were  ministers  of 
the  gospel  ;  seven  of  whom,  namely,  Jason  Lee,  J.  H. 
Frost,  A.  F.  Waller,  W.  W.  Kone,  G.  Hines,  L.  H. 
Judson,  J.  L.  Parrish  and  J.  P.  Richmond,  were  con- 
nected with  the  missionary  expedition  to  Oregon  ;  and 
one,  the  Rev.  Sheldon  Dibble,  was  a  Presbyterian  mis- 
sionary, on  his  way  to  his  field  of  labor,  in  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  We  had  one  physician.  Dr.  J.  L.  Babcock, 
who  had  been  appointed  to  take  care  of  the  health  of 
the  members  of  the  mission,  and  all  the  remainder  had 
been  connected  with  the  enterprise,  by  the  appointment 
of  the  Missionary  Board  of  the  M.  E.  Church,  as  farm- 
ers, mechanics,  and  teachers,  to  labor  for  the  promotion 
of  religion  and  civilization,  in  the  territory  of  Oregon. 
With  the  secular  department  of  the  work,  two  of  the 
above  named  preachers,  L.  H.  Judson,  and  J.  L.  Parrish, 
were  also  connected. 

The  persons  composing  this,  the  largest  expedition  of 
the  kind  that  had  e^r  sailed  from  our  shores,  presented 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  43 

a  great  variety  in  consequence  of  the  extensive  range 
of  country  from  which  they  had  been  collected.  Coming 
together  from  Massachusetts,  Connecticut,  New  York, 
Maryland,  North  Carolina,  Illinois,  and  Missouri,  and 
bringing  with  them  many  of  the  different  peculiarities 
of  these  several  portions  of  our  Union,  it  would  not  be 
surprising,  confined  as  they  were  for  so  long  a  time, 
under  circumstances  pecuharly  calculated  to  "try  men's 
souls"  if,  from  time  to  time,  they  came  so  far  in  collision 
with  each  other's  views  and  prejudices,  as  to  produce  a 
momentary  rupture.  One  striking  trait,  however,  as 
difficult  to  exhibit  as  it  is  excellent  in  its  influence,  ap- 
peared in  the  conduct  of  the  company  huddled  together 
in  the  cabin  of  the  Lausanne.  It  was  this  ;  a  disposition 
to  sacrifice  self,  for  the  promotion  of  the  common  weal. 
This  excellency  of  character  was  fully  manifested  on 
the  part  of  the  ladies,  of  whom  we  had  nineteen  on 
board. 

Dismissing  this  general  description  of  the  company,  I 
proceed  to  give  a  few  of  the  incidents  of  our  voyage, 
first,  assuring  the  reader  that  long  and  tedious  descrip- 
tions of  the  management  and  evolutions  of  the  vessel, 
the  peculiar  technicalities  of  navigation,  the  clewing, 
handling,  or  reefing  of  sails,  and  the  various  phenomena 
which  belong  exclusively  to  the  avocation  of  those  who 
"  go  down  to  the  sea  in  ships  and  do  business  on  the 
great  waters,"  will  be  studiously  avoided.  The  seaman's 
vocabulary  constitutes  an  unintelligible  jargon  to  all 
landsmen  ;  and  as  this  Journal  is  designed  for  the  benefit 
of  such  as  are  not  accustomed  to  the  seas,  this  vocabu- 
lary will  not  be  resorted  to,  except  where  it  may  be 
thought  necessary  to  express  the  subject  in  a  clearer 
light,  or  to  render  a  description  more  full  and  explicit. 
Waiving  all  such  explanations  hereafter,  and  continuing 
directly  on  our  voyage,  in  the  regular  course  of  events, 
I  come  now  to  give  a  description  of  our  first  Sabbath  at 
sea. 

Though  a  storm  had  been  raging  for  days,  yet  the 
Sabbath  brought  with  it  almost  a  perfect  calm.  In  con- 
sequence of  the  sickness  of  the  passengers  no  arrange- 


44  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

ments  nad  been  made  with  regard  to  the  services  of  the 
day  ;  but  the  weather  being  so  fine,  it  was  thought 
practicable,  notwithstanding  all  had  not  recovered  from 
their  sickness,  to  have  public  worship.  The  Rev.  Mr. 
Dibble  having  performed  a  number  of  voyages,  was 
sufficiently  inured  to  the  motion  of  the  vessel,  to  be  able 
to  preach  ;  and  being  requested  to  officiate,  the  passen- 
gers and  some  of  the  crew  collected  on  the  quarter 
deck,  and  listened  to  a  most  interesting,  appropriate,  and 
profitable  discourse,  from  the  words  of  the  Apostle  Paul: 
"  For  scarcely  for  a  righteous  man,  will  one  die,  yet 
peradventure  for  a  good  man,  some  would  even  dare  to 
die." 

To  many,  it  was  a  season  ''  of  refreshing  from  the 
presence  of  the  Lord  ;  "  and  we  found  our  vessel  to  be 
none  other  than  the  "house  of  God,  and  the  gate  of 
Heaven. "  In  the  evening,  all  that  were  able,  came 
together  on  deck,  for  the  purpose  of  holding  a  prayer 
meeting,  and  while  the  meeting  was  in  progress,  a  fine 
breeze  sprung  up,  and  as  the  wind  whistled  through  our 
rigging,  the  voice  of  prayer  was  ascending  to  the  throne 
of  God.  The  meeting  closed,  and  all  quietly  retired  to 
their  berths,  committing  themselves  to  the  care  of  Him 
who  rides  upon  the  wings  of  the  wind,  and  who  holds 
the  mighty  ocean  in  the  hollow  of  his  hand.  Thus  closed 
our  first  Sabbath  at  sea,  leaving  the  delightful  impression 
that  we  were  not  to  be  deprived  of  the  privileges  of  the 
sanctuary,  though  far  away  amidst  the  solitude  of  the 
ocean. 

For  the  purpose  of  promoting  harmony  on  board,  in 
the  evening  of  the  16th,  rules  were  adopted,  by  a  vote 
of  the  passengers,  to  regulate  the  police  of  the  cabin 
during  the  voyage.  These  rules  fixed  the  time  of 
rising,  the  time  for  morning  and  evening  prayers,  the 
order  to  be  observed  at  the  table,  and  the  course  of ' 
conduct  to  be  pursued  with  reference  to  the  children. 
We  found  it  to  be  as  necessary  to  have  law  in  our  Uttle 
floating  world,  as  it  is  on  land;  and  the  laws  thus  volun- 
tarily adopted,  proved  salutary  in  their  influence, 
throughout  the  whole  voyage. 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGOJJ.  45 

This  arrangement  was  carried  out,  during  the  seven 
months  of  our  confinement  on  the  Lausanne,  without 
deviation,  except  when  the  motion  of  the  vessel  was  so 
violent  as  to  render  it  altogether  impracticable.  Persons 
were  also  appointed  to  make  arrangements  for  holding 
a  centenary  meeting,  on  board  the  vessel,  and  for  pre- 
paring a  journal  of  our  voyage,  to  be  sent  back  to  New 
York,  for  publication  in  the  C.  A.  Journal. 

On  the  18th,  it  was  determined  that  our  meeting 
preparatory  to  the  centenary,  should  be  held  on  Mon- 
day, the  21st  instant,  at  10  o'clock,  a.  m.,  at  which 
addresses  should  be  delivered,  and  subscriptions  soHcited. 
It  was  also  resolved,  that,  in  connection  with  our  breth- 
ren throughout  the  world,  we  would  meet  together  on 
the  25th  inst.,  and  celebrate  the  day  in  the  following 
manner: 

Prayer  meeting  in  the  morning,  preaching  at  2  o'clock, 
and  love-feast  in  the  evening. 

On  Monday,  the  21st,  a  strong  head  wind  prevailed, 
and  the  violence  of  the  motion  of  the  ship  was  so  great, 
that  the  preparatory  meeting  was  deferred  until  the  23d. 
Two  addresses  were  delivered  on  the  occasion,  after 
which  a  subscription  was  taken,  which,  by  a  previous 
resolution,  was  to  be  appropriated  for  the  moral  eleva- 
tion of  the  Indians,  west  of  the  Rocky  mountains.  And, 
although  we  were  floating  upon  the  bosom  of  the  deep, 
nearly  a  thousand  miles  from  land,  being  in  latitude  35 
degrees,  44  minutes,  north,  and  longitude  55  degrees, 
15  minutes,  w^est,  yet  it  was  a  season  of  pecuhar  interest; 
and  the  sense  of  obligation  which  all  felt,  in  view  of  the 
benefits  conferred  upon  them  and  the  world,  through 
the  influence  of  Wesleyan  Methodism,  was  exhibited  by 
placing  on  the  altar,  by  the  missionaries,  a  thank  offer- 
ing, amounting  to  six  hundred  and  fifty  dollars,  twenty 
of  which  were  contributed  by  the  Presbyterian  mission- 
ary, the  Rev.  S.  Dibble. 

On  the  25th,  the  centenary  of  Methodism  was  cele- 
brated on  the  Lausanne,  according  to  previous  arrange- 
ment;  and,  having  been  selected  for  the  purpose,  the 


46  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

writer  endeavored  to  improve  the  occasion  by  a  dis- 
course, from  Zachariah,  xiv.  6,  7,  8. 

While  the  interesting  services  of  this  day  and  evening 
were  in  progress,  our  gallant  ship,  by  a  strong  breeze, 
was  wafted  over  the  rolling  deep  at  the  rate  of  nine 
knots  an  hour. 

Thursday,  3ist.  All  the  passengers  begin  to  prefer 
the  deck  to  the  cabin  or  state-rooms,  and  whether  sick 
or  well,  storm  or  calm,  they  will  make  their  appearance 
on  deck  several  times  a  day,  if  they  can  possibly  get  out 
themselves,  or  get  any  one  to  assist  them  out.  This 
preference  arises  first,  from  the  heat  of  the  cabin,  which 
as  we  proceed  south,  is  getting  quite  unendurable ; 
second,  from  the  nauseous  scent,  which,  at  any  time, 
would  be  disagreeable  to  the  olfactories,  and,  to  sea-sick 
stomachs,  is  truly  repulsive;  third,  from  the  crowded 
condition  of  the  cabin,  there  being  a  large  number  of 
chests,  trunks,  boxes,  baskets  and  other  things,  scattered 
along  the  gangway  and  under  the  tables,  so  that  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  find  a  place  to  set  one's  foot.  This 
day  an  incident  transpired,  as  disagreeable  to  some  as  it 
was  a  fruitful  source  of  laughter  to  others.  The  wind 
had  been  blowing  with  increasing  violence  for  a  number 
of  hours,  and  the  sea  had  become  unusually  rough.  By 
the  mismanagement  of  the  man  at  the  wheel,  the  vessel 
shipped  a  tremendous  sea,  which  came  rushing  over  on 
the  deck,  and  extended  from  the  bow  to  the  stern,  and 
rose  so  high  as  to  wet  the  lower  part  of  the  top  sails. 
Mrs.  Lee,  Mrs.  Hines  and  Mrs.  Frost  were  on  deck  at 
the  time,  the  two  former  too  sick  to  hold  up  their  heads, 
and  the  latter  waiting  upon  them  to  some  gruel.  They 
were  bolstered  up  in  their  chairs,  which  leaned  back 
against  the  scuttle,  with  their  faces  to  the  windward, 
and  received  the  whole  weight  of  the  huge  sea,  as  it 
poured  its  overwhelming  flood  on  the  ship's  deck.  For 
a  moment  they  scarcely  knew  whether  they  were  in  the 
ocean,  or  on  the  vessel,  but  when  the  flood  passed  over, 
they  found  cause  for  thankfulness  in  the  fact,  that,  with 
their  thorough  drenching,  they  had  received  no  serious 
injury. 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  41 

November  1st.  The  wind  has  gradually  increased  in 
strength  since  yesterday,  and  consequently  the  sea  runs 
very  high.  Though  I  find  myself  so  sick,  in  consequence 
of  the  violent  motion  of  the  vessel,  that  I  loathe  almost 
every  thing  my  eyes  behold,  yet  occasionally  I  draw 
myself  up  to  the  windward  by  ropes,  and,  looking  over 
the  bulwarks,  contemplate  the  grandeur  and  sublimity 
of  the  mighty  ocean,  as  she  proudly  and  majestically 
rolls  onward  her  mountain  waves.  During  the  night, 
we  were  called  to  encounter  a  severe  gale.  For  forty- 
eight  hours  the  wind  had  been  blowing  with  increasing 
strength,  attended  occasionally  w^ith  rain.  But  early  in 
the  evening  the  sky  became  perfectly  clear,  and  the 
stars  glistened  with  unusual  brightness,  which  gave 
indication  that  a  still  more  violent  blast  awaited  us. 
About  midnight,  at  the  loud  and  well  understood  call  of 
the  second  officer,  all  hands  were  immediately  on  deck; 
for  in  the  midst  of  a  storm,  every  sailor  is  converted 
into  a  fearless  hero.  The  Hstening  sailors  waited  for  a 
moment  the  word  of  command,  when  "Clew  your  main 
sheet;  clew  up  your  main  top  sail;  handle  your  maintop 
gallant  sail;  clew  your  fore  tack;  close  reef  your  fore 
top  sail;"  were  heard  above  the  roar  of  the  winds  and 
waves,  and  met  with  a  prompt  obedience.  This  being 
done,  the  captain  was  called,  for  the  time  was  considered 
somewhat  perilous.  When  the  captain  appeared  on 
deck,  the  officer  said  to  him,  "There  is  a  gale  coming, 
sir,  still  more  heavy  than  any  thing  we  have  had.  Shall 
I  not  handle  the  foretop  gallant  sail,  and  lay  to  the  galel" 
The  captain  hesitated  a  moment,  when  the  mate  cried 
out,  "  The  fore  top  gallant  sail  must  be  taken  in,  sir,  or 
lost  in  a  minute."  "Close  reef  your  fore  top  gallant 
sail,"  was  heard  above  the  roar  of  the  angry  elements, 
and  w^as  obeyed  with  amazing  promptness  by  the  faith- 
ful sailors,  who  had  been  as  quick  as  thought  to  every 
word  of  command.  After  the  sails  had  all  been  taken 
in,  except  enough  to  keep  the  vessel  steady,  the  man  at 
the  wheel  was  charged  to  "mind  his  weather  helm." 
At  this  moment  the  whole  fury  of  the  blast  was  upon 
us.     The  sea  was  lashed  to  foam,  and  the  wund,  w^ith 


48  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

fitful  gusts,  swept  angrily  across  our  deck,  and  howled 
dismally  through  our  rigging.  At  every  blast  of  the 
tempest,  the  ship  creaked  in  every  joint,  and,  careening 
to  the  water's  edge,  swung  her  towering  masts  majesti- 
cally in  the  heavens.  The  huge  waves  came  rolling 
ove-r  our  weather  bow,  and  occasionally  washed  the 
entire  length  of  our  vessel.  But  the  time  had  now 
arrived  to  lay  to  the  wind.  "  Hard  up  !"  thundered  the 
watchful  captain;  "  Hard  up,  sir !"  replied  the  faithful 
helmsman.  The  gallant  ship  turned  her  face  to  the 
wind,  and  defied  the  fury  of  the  storm.  She  lay  upon 
the  waves,  apparently  as  light  as  a  feather,  and  increased 
the  confidence  of  all  in  her  capacity,  by  the  triumphant 
manner  in  which  she  rode  out  the  gale.  At  3  o'clock 
in  the  morning  the  wind  slackened,  and  changing  sud- 
denly into  the  west,  brought  us  again  on  our  course, 
and  at  four  we  were  gliding  over  the  billows,  at  the  rate 
of  nine  knots  an  hour. 

On  the  morning  of  the  8th,  we  began  to  be  affected 
by  the  north-east  trade  wind.  There  are  two  of  these 
winds,  one  north  and  the  other  south  of  the  equator, 
extending  quite  around  the  globe,  with  the  exception  of 
those  intermediate  spaces  where  they  are  broken  off  by 
land  breezes.  The  trade  north  of  the  equator,  called 
the  north-east  trade,  commences  between  the  28th  and 
30th  degrees  of  north  latitude,  and  continues  to  the  8th, 
the  distance  of  twenty  degrees.  In  sailing  to  the  south, 
you  begin  to  feel  the  south-east  trade  between  the  3d 
and  4th  degrees  of  north  latitude.  The  intermediate 
space,  consisting  of  a  strip  about  five  degrees,  or  three 
hundred  miles  wide,  is  the  region  celebrated  on  account 
of  its  variable  winds,  sudden  squalls,  and  extended  calms. 
Here  vessels  are  sometimes  detained,  by  dead  calms, 
beneath  the  vertical  rays  of  a  burning  sun,  for  forty  or 
fifty  days;  and  captains  consider  that  a  voyage  across 
this  region  is  unusually  prosperous,  if  it  is  performed  in 
one  week. 

The  south-east  trade  continues  from  the  3d  degree 
north,  to  the  30th  degree  south  of  the  equator;  its  cur- 
rent varying  from  the  east  to  south  by  east. 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  49 

These  winds  are  probably  produced  by  two  causes  in 
connection.  First,  the  constant  tendency  of  the  air  to 
restore  its  equihbrium.  The  cold  air  of  the  poles  rushes 
in  towards  the  equator,  and  sets  the  heated  and  rarified 
air  around  the  equator  in  motion,  and  the  heat  of  the 
sun,  upon  the  elastic  air,  has  a  tendency  to  increase  the 
motion,  by  expanding  the  air;  and  thus  a  contention  is 
produced  betwixt  the  cold  and  heated  air,  the  former 
exerting  itself  to  supplant  the  latter,  and  vice  versa. 
Second,  the  diurnal  revolution  of  the  earth  on  its  axis. 
If  it  were  not  for  these  daily  revolutions,  these  winds 
would  blow  direct  from  the  poles  to  the  equator,  whereas 
their  current  now  runs  diagonally  with  that  line.  There 
is  also  a  current  in  the  ocean,  which  runs  with  the  trade 
winds,  and  is  evidently  produced  by  the  revolutions  of 
the  earth.  These  two  causes  combine  to  produce  that 
regularity  in  these  winds,  without  which  it  would  be 
diliicult,  if  not  impossible,  to  navigate  the  Atlantic  and 
Pacific  oceans.  These  important  currents  are  called 
trade  winds,  because  they  are  more  favorable  to  com- 
merce, or  trade,  than  all  other  winds  that  blow. 

In  the  afternoon  of  this  day,  the  passengers  were 
thrown  into  an  excitement  by  the  announcement,  by  the 
captain,  of  "a  whale  along  side."  No  one  had  ever 
seen  one  of  these  monsters  of  the  deep,  and  of  course 
there  was  a  general  rush  to  the  bulwarks,  to  get  a 
glimpse  of  him  before  he  should  disappear. 

Even  those  who  were  still  confined  to  their  berths, 
by  sea  sickness,  must  be  assisted  on  deck,  to  have  a  view 
of  the  whale.  There  were  two  of  them,  and  they 
played  around  the  vessel  for  an  hour,  and  occasionally 
showed  the  entire  length  of  their  huge  forms,  above  the 
surface  of  the  water,  thus  giving  all  an  opportunity  to 
satisfy  their  curiosity  concerning  the  largest  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  ocean.  On  the  firing  of  a  gun,  they 
instantly  disappeared. 

On  the  19th,  we  were  in  the  latitude  of  Monrovia,  on 
the  western  coast  of  Africa,  and  within  three  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  of  that  place.     This  is  our  nearest  approach  to 


50  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

the  continent  of  Africa.  In  these  latitudes  vessels  usually 
experience  heavy  falls  of  rain,  so  as  to  be  able  to  reple- 
nish all  their  empty  v^^ater  casks;  how^ever,  v^e  realized 
but  Httle,  and  most  of  our  exhausted  casks  remained 
dry.  This  subjected  us  to  the  inconvenience  of  being 
throw^n  upon  an  allowance  of  v^^ater,  v^hich  v^as  a  pre- 
caution the  captain  said  vv^as  necessary  to  enter  into,  in 
order  to  make  our  v^ater  hold  out,  till  we  should  reach 
the  port  of  Rio  de  Janeiro.  We  were  here  relieved 
from  the  monotony  of  our  voyage,  which  began  to  be 
quite  disagreeable,  by  a  number  of  incidents  always 
interesting  at  sea,  and  always  described  in  the  journals 
of  voyagers.  The  first  was  the  appearance  of  an  im- 
mense school  of  porpoises.  There  must  have  been  tens 
of  thousands  of  them,  as  they  appeared  to  cover  hundreds 
of  acres.  They  continued  around  the  vessel  for  some 
time,  leaping  and  bounding  high  out  of  the  water  in 
every  direction.  They  are  a  warm  blooded  fish,  and 
leap  out  of  the  water  for  the  purpose  of  breathing. 
They  are  from  three  to  five  feet  long,  and  weigh  from 
one  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred  pounds.  The 
second  was,  the  being  spoken  by  two  French  sloops  of 
war.  We  had  seen  several  vessels  since  leaving  port, 
but  none  had  approached  near  us,  until  the  21st  of 
November,  when,  early  in  the  morning,  a  French  sloop 
of  war,  of  twenty-four  guns,  came  dashing  on  our  stern, 
as  if  she  intended  to  run  us  down.  The  stars  and  stripes 
were  immediately  flying  from  our  spanker  yard,  to  show 
Monsieur  who  we  were.  In  response,  the  French  colors 
were  soon  seen,  streaming  in  the  wind.  After  manoeu- 
ve'ring  a  little  on  our  stern,  she  finally  passed  us  to  the 
windward  within  a  few  rods,  presenting  a  remarkably 
fine  appearance.  The  other  vessel  referred  to  was  a 
sloop  of  eighteen  guns,  and  spoke  us  on  the  23d.  She 
first  appeared  far  to  the  windward,  but  bore  down 
towards  us,  and  fell  on  our  stern  about  three  miles  off. 
After  chasing  us  for  several  hours  she  finally  succeeded 
in  coming  along  side  to  the  leeward,  and,  after  we 
examined  each  other  for  a  half  hour  or  more,  and  passed 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  51 

through  with  the  usual  salutations  of  showing  the  colors 
of  our  respective  nations,  she  bade  us  good  bye,  but 
allowed  us  to  keep  in  sight  of  her  during  the  day. 

On  the  morning  of  the  25th,  before  a  strong  south- 
east trade,  at  the  rate  of  seven  knots,  we  passed  from 
the  northern  to  the  southern  hemisphere.  The  following 
evening  was  remarkably  dark,  though  calm  and  serene, 
and  we  were  gliding  almost  imperceptibly  along  at  the 
rate  of  three  knots,  before  a  gentle  breeze,  when,  all  at 
once,  there  appeared  within  ten  feet  of  the  vessel, 
floating  on  the  water,  a  large  fire,  which  flamed  up 
several  feet  high,  and  appeared  about  three  feet  in 
diameter.  The  Rev.  W.  W.  Kone  first  discovered  this 
remarkable  phenomenon,  and  with  his  exclamations  of 
wonder  at  what  it  might  be,  a  great  excitement  was 
produced  among  the  passengers,  while  the  captain 
appeared  to  be  more  at  a  loss  to  know  w^hat  this  strange 
fire  could  mean,  than  any  other.  All  w^ere  gazing  at  it 
with  intense  interest,  and  many  began  to  philosophize 
concerning  it.  Some  said  it  was  a  remarkable  collection 
of  phosphorus;  some  called  it  electricity,  and  some  one 
thing  and  some  another.  At  length  it  began  to  be 
whispered  that  there  was  some  trick  about  it,  and  finally, 
all  the  theories  that  had  been  advanced  concerning  it, 
laughable  from  their  absurdities,  fell  to  the  ground,  on 
the  discovery  of  the  fact  that  it  was  nothing  but  a  burn- 
ing tar  barrel,  which  the  sailors  had  got  permission  from 
the  captain  to  lower  from  the  bow  of  the  vessel,  for  the 
purpose  of  exciting  the  inquisitive  curiosity  of  the  pas- 
sengers. The  incident,  though  trifling  in  its  nature,  for 
the  time  being  was  a  source  of  considerable  merriment. 

It  was  not  a  little  interesting  to  us,  as  we  proceeded 
southward,  to  witness  new  and  magnificent  constellations 
of  stars  rising  to  our  view,  and  those  near  the  north 
pole,  with  w^hich  we  had  been  familiar  from  our  child- 
hood, sinking  from  our  sight,  below  the  northern  horizon. 

The  north  polar  star,  which  to  us  had  ever  been  ele- 
vated more  than  forty  degrees  in  the  heavens,  was  lost 
behind  the  mountains  of  ice  which  rise  in  majestic  gran- 
deur amid  the  Arctic  ocean ;  while  the  Great  and  Little 


52  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

Bear,  the  Great  and  Little  Dog,  Andromeda,  Cassiopea, 
Taurus  and  Orion,  were  fast  receding  northward,  to  rise 
again  to  our  view  when  we  should  approximate  the  lati- 
tudes over  which  we  had  sailed.  But  while  we  were 
leaving  these  old  acquaintances  of  the  hypoborean  re- 
gions, new  and  no  less  interesting  ones  presented  them- 
selves in  the  southern  sky,  to  cheer  us  on  our  lonely 
voyage  around  the  stormy  cape. 

Among  the   celestial  scenery  of  the   south,  there  is 
nothing    more    interesting   than    those    two  remarkable 
spots  in  the  heavens,  which  are  known  by  the  name  of 
the  Magellan  clouds.      These  phenomena  do  not  present 
the  appearance  of  clouds,  as  their  name  would  indicate, 
but  they  are  quite  luminous,  resembling  in  their  aspect 
the  brightest  spots  in  the  Milky  Way,  and  supposed,  like 
the  latter,  to  consist  of  innumerable  stars,  not  discernible 
to  the  naked  eye.      They  are  situated  near  the    south 
pole  of  the  heavens,  and  are  about  fifteen  degrees  apart, 
the  smaller  being  nearest  the  pole.     In  the  diurnal  revo- 
lutions of  the  earth,  they  each  describe  a  circle  round 
the  pole,  the  diameter  of  the  smaller  circle  being  about 
fifteen,  and  that  of  the  latter  about  twenty-five  degrees. 
As  there  is  no  star  at  the  south  pole  answering,  to  the 
southern  hemisphere,   the  purpose  that  the   north  star 
serves  to  the  northern,  these  clouds  serve  in  navigating 
the  South  Pacific  ocean.     It  is  said  by  some  that  there 
is  another  cloud  of  a  dark  appearance  not  far  distant 
from  these,  but  of  this  we  could  see  nothing.     It  is  quite 
certain  that  no  such  dark  cloud  exists.     These  clouds 
derived   their   name  from  the   distinguished   navigator, 
who  also  gave  his  name  to  the  straits  leading  from  the 
Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  and  separating  Terra  del 
Fuego  from  Patigonia. 

December  1st  was  the  last  Sabbath  we  spent  before 
making  the  coast  of  Brazil,  and  as  it  was  a  fair  sample 
of  the  manner  in  which  all  our  pleasant  Sabbaths  were 
employed,  the  reader  will  perhaps  be  gratified  with  a 
short  description  of  it.  The  day  was  inexpressibly  fine ; 
a  bland  and  reviving  breeze  tempered  the  rays  of  the 
vertical  sun,  and  bore  us  almost  imperceptibly  over  the 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  53 

gentle  undulation  of  the  deep.  At  the  usual  hour  of 
worship  in  the  temple  of  Jehovah  on  land,  a  bell  was 
rung  so  as  to  be  heard  from  the  after  cabin  to  the  fore- 
castle, to  call  the  people  together ;  and  immediately 
sixtv-five  persons  were  comfortably  seated  on  the  quar- 
ter Heck,  beneath  an  awning,  spread  to  intercept  the  too 
intense  rays  of  the  tropical  sun.  The  minister  for  the 
occasion  gave  out  the  sublime  hymn  commencing 

"  Before  Jehovah's  awful  throne,  " 

which  was  sung  "with  the  spirit  and  with  the  under- 
standing also,"  to  the  immortal  tune  of  *'01d  Hundred." 
The  voice  of  solemn  prayer  succeeded,  and  was  followed 
by  an  appropriate  sermon  from  the  words,  "  They  all 
with  one  consent  began  to  make  excuse.  "  At  the  close 
of  the  exercises  all  appeared  to  feel  that,  from  whatever 
else  they  would  be  excused,  they  would  not  be  excused 
from  receiving  the  forgiveness  of  sins,  the  consolations 
of  religion,  hope  in  death,  and  everlasting  Hfe.  In  the 
afternoon  all  assembled  again,  and  listened  to  an  interest- 
ing discourse  from  the  text,  "  And  they  remembered  his 
words. "  The  excellency  and  wisdom  of  the  words  of 
Christ,  were  dilated  upon  in  such  a  manner  as  to  impress 
all  with  the  truth  of  the  remark,  that  "He  spake  as 
never  man  spake. "  The  closing  scene  of  this  day's 
exercise  was  one  of  true  sublimity.  Surrounded  with 
the  darkness  and  stillness  of  evening,  all  again  bowed 
down  on  the  deck  of  the  Lausanne,  and  offered  up  their 
fervent  aspirations  to  the  throne  of  God.  The  wind 
began  to  whistle  through  our  canvass  as  we  retired  to 
our  berths,  feeling  truly  grateful  for  the  privileges  of 
the  holy  Sabbath,  though  enjoyed  amidst  the  boundless 
wastes  of  the  Atlantic. 

On  leaving  New  York  our  course  was  nearly  south- 
east until  we  approached  the  continent  of  Africa ;  then 
making  an  angle,  we  sailed  nearly  south-west  until  we 
approached  the  coast  of  Brazil ;  and  it  may  be  a  matter 
of  surprise  to  many,  that  we  should  sail  so  much  out  of 
our  way,  to  get  to  the  city  of  Rio  Janeiro.  The  object 
of  making  so  much   easting   was,    first,    to   secure  the 


54  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON, 

benefits  of  the  north-east  and  south-east  trade  winds,  and 
second,  to  avoid  being  driven  by  these  winds  and  the 
currents  of  the  ocean,  to  the  northward  of  Cape  St. 
Rogue,  the  easternmost  point  of  land  on  the  coast  of 
Brazil.  All  vessels  bound  to  the  south  of  Cape  St. 
Rogue  pursue  nearly  the  same  track,  and  cross  the 
equator  between  the  twentieth  and  twenty-third  degrees 
of  west  longitude. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  8th  of  December,  the 
cry  of  "  Land,  ho ! "  brought  most  of  the  passengers 
immediately  to  the  deck.  The  captain  had  remarked 
the  evening  previous,  that  we  should  see  land  in  the 
morning  to  the  north-east  of  us,  if  the  wind  continued 
in  the  same  direction,  which  proved  to  be  the  case  ;  and 
the  high  bluffs  of  Cape  Frio  (cold  cape)  appeared  in  full 
view  about  twenty-five  miles  oflf.  The  sight  of  land 
was  hailed  with  the  utmost  joy,  it  having  been  fifty-nine 
days  since  the  high  lands  of  Never  vSink,  the  last  land 
we  saw,  were  hidden  in  the  dim  distance.  As  we  pro- 
ceeded down  towards  Rio,  the  coast  presented  a  grand 
and  picturesque  appearance,  not  vastly  dissimilar  to  that 
of  the  mountains,  as  seen  from  the  deck  of  a  steamboat 
on  the  Hudson  river.  The  day  was  calm,  and  the  sky 
overcast  with  clouds,  and  many  of  the  mountains  reared 
their  lofty  heads  above  the  strata  of  the  lower  clouds, 
so  that  these  were  seen  lowering  around  the  mountains, 
and  presenting  the  appearance  of  vast  quantities  of 
smoke,  rolling  down  their  apparently  smooth  and  conical 
sides.  Our  eyes  being  once  more  privileged  with  be- 
holding land,  though  at  a  distance,  our  attention  was 
again  called  to  the  solemnities  of  the  holy  Sabbath. 

Monday,  the  9th,  we  were  hovering  around  the  en- 
trance of  the  harbor  of  Rio  de  Janeiro.  A  slight  breeze 
from  land  prevented  us  from  proceeding  directly  into 
the  harbor,  and  this  gave  us  an  opportunity  to  contem- 
plate the  scenery  of  the  shore.  The  preceding  night 
had  been  one  of  unusual  darkness,  occasioned  by  the 
dense  fog  by  which  we  were  enveloped  ;  but  this  ren- 
dered the  appearance  of  the  revolving  light,  which  came 
peering  through  the  midnight  gloom  from  the  distant 
isle,  still  more  delightful. 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  5& 

As  the  sun  approached  the  meridian,  and  dissipated 
the  mists  of  the  morning,  the  land  zephyr  died  away, 
and  a  gentle  breeze  from  the  ocean  filled  our  already 
expanded  sails,  wafting  us  directly  towards  the  harbor. 
As  we  approached  the  shore,  the  scenery  presented  to 
our  view  w^as  beautifully  grand,  beyond  description. 
On  our  left,  the  *'  Sugar  Loaf"  mountain  reared  its  lofty 
summit,  to  the  height  of  eight  hundred  feet,  sloping  on 
the  side  towards  the  water,  but  perpendicular  on  the 
opposite;  also,  the  island  of  serpentine  rock,  elevated 
several  hundred  feet,  with  the  light-house  resting  on  its 
top,  and  "  Redonda,"  perfectly  conical  in  its  formation, 
being  about  fifty  rods  in  diameter  at  its  base,  and  rising 
more  than  five  hundred  feet;  while,  about  ten  miles  in 
the  distance,  appeared  a  majestic  mountain,  whose  cloud- 
capped  summit  towered  to  the  height  of  three  thousand 
feet  above  the  ocean,  and  seeming  to  look  down  con- 
temptuously on  every  thing  beneath.  It  is  called  the 
"  Parrot's  Beak."  The  main  shore  is  very  broken,  some 
parts  of  it  being  elevated  far  above  the  rest,  while  the 
huge  ''crags"  on  their  rugged  summits,  appear  to  frown 
down  upon  the  agitated  waters,  which  dash  harmlessly 
against  their  base.  On  our  right,  the  mountainous  coast 
could  be  distinctly  seen  the  distance  of  sixty  miles,  to 
Cape  Frio;  while  on  our  left,  to  a  distance,  if  possible, 
still  greater,  pile  after  pile  of  huge,  massy  rocks  were 
thrown  together  in  the  wildest  confusion,  rising  thou- 
sands of  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  and,  as  they 
receded  from  us,  appearing  less  and  less,  until,  in  the 
dim  distance,  they  were  lost  from  our  sight.  These, 
together  with  a  view  of  the  imperial  city  of  Rio  de 
Janeiro,  lying  quietly  in  the  bosom  of  the  bay  of  St. 
Janarius,  conspired  to  give  variety  to  the  splendid  pano- 
rama, by  which,  on  entering  the  harbor,  we  found  our- 
selves encircled.  The  grandeur  and  sublimity  of  the 
scene  were  worthy  of  the  pencil  of  the  most  skillful 
artist,  and  truly  enchanting  to  the  lover  of  nature;  and 
it  was  with  the  most  thrilling  emotions  of  delight,  that 
we  gazed  upon  the  romantic  and  picturesque  scenery 
before  us.     As  we  drew  near  the  shore,  the  mountains 


5G  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

lining  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  lost  the  sterile  ap- 
pearance which  they  had  presented  from  a  distance,  be- 
ing changed,  by  the  beautiful  verdure  which  covered 
their  summits,  into  a  delightful  green.  The  valleys 
between  the  mountains  were  clothed  with  luxuriant 
evergreens,  and  here  and  there  a  round  elevation  pre- 
sented, in  beautiful  variety,  a  few  cocoa-nut  trees, 
which  were  scattered  sparsely  over  them.  Soon  our 
attention  was  invited  to  animate  nature.  At  the  mouth 
of  the  channel,  leading  into  the  bay  and  harbor  of  Rio, 
is  a  very  strong  fortification,  and  the  heads  of  armed 
men  could  be  seen  above  the  ramparts  as  we  passed. 
We  were  hailed  from  this  fort,  as  also  from  an  armed 
vessel  lying  at  a  distance.  From  another  fort,  still 
nearer  the  city,  a  man  bawled  out,  through  a  speaking- 
trumpet,  requiring  us  to  proceed  no  farther,  but  to  bear 
oflf  to  the  right  and  come  to  anchor,  which  we  immedi- 
ately obeyed,  although  it  subjected  us  to  the  inconve- 
nience of  rowing  one  mile  and  a  half,  to  gain  the  shore. 

It  w^as  two  o'clock,  p.  m.,  of  the  9th,  when  we  came 
to  anchor,  and  the  rest  of  the  day  was  spent  in  receiving 
those  visits  from  government  officers,  which  are  required 
previous  to  their  admitting  any  on  shore.  The  gentlemen 
who  visited  us  were  intelligent  and  aftable,  and,  coming 
from  a  Roman  Catholic  government,  were  quite  asto- 
nished to  see  so  many  priests  on  board,  especially  when 
they  were  informed  that  they  all  had  wives. 

On  the  morning  of  the  10th,  the  captain,  with  six  of 
the  passengers,  went  ashore.  We  were,  however,  re- 
quired by  the  government,  to  pass  along  side  an  armed 
schooner,  which  was  stationed  in  the  harbor,  for  the 
purpose  of  giving  them  an  opportunity  to  examine  our 
baggage,  to  see  that  w^e  had  no  contraband  goods  in  our 
possession,  which  very  unceremonious  process,  we  were 
informed,  we  must  submit  to,  as  well  when  we  returned 
from  the  shore  to  the  vessel,  as  in  passing  from  the 
vessel  to  the  shore.  As  we  were  to  lie  here  a  number 
of  days,  we  looked  upon  this  custom-house  arrangement 
as  imposing  upon  us  a  useless  and  disagreeable  task. 
Immediately  on  landing,  we  proceeded  to  the  mercantile 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  5?? 

establishment  of  Gardiner  &  Campbell,  who  are  English 
residents.  Gardiner  had  formerly  resided  some  time  in 
the  city  of  New  York.  Here  we  were  soon  met  by  the 
Rev.  Justin  Spaulding,  who  had  resided  in  the  place  for 
three  years,  as  a  missionary  of  the  Methodist  E.  Church, 
and  from  whom,  in  connection  with  his  family,  and  the 
family  of  his  colleague,  the  Rev.  D,  P.  Kidder,  (who 
himself  was  absent  on  an  exploring  tour  to  the  north,) 
we  met  with  a  most  cordial  reception.  We  found  them 
comm.odiously  situated,  in  a  large  building,  well  furnished 
for  their  accommodation,  and  located  in  a  retired  part  of 
the  city  o{  Rio  de  Janeiro,  about  one  mile  from  the  place 
of  landing.  Mr.  Spaulding  assured  us  that,  though  he 
could  not  furnish  the  whole  company  with  beds,  yet  his 
rooms  were  open,  and  he  should  expect  us  to  occupy 
them  freely,  by  night  and  by  day,  while  we  remained  in 
the  place.  And,  indeed,  all  that  christian  love  and 
kindness  could  do,  these  missionaries  cheerfully  per- 
formed, to  render  our  stay  with  them  happy  and  inte- 
resting. 

The  splendid  city  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  which  is  the 
capital  of  the  Empire  of  Brazil,  presents  to  voyagers  to 
this  portion  of  the  world,  an  object  of  considerable 
interest.  A  better  location  for  a  commercial  city  can 
scarcely  be  imagined.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  country  of 
vast  extent,  of  inexhaustible  fertility,  and  equal  in  re- 
sources to  the  most  enlarged  expectations.  Its  harbor  is 
one  of  the  best  in  the  world.  The  entrance  to  it  is 
narrow,  though  sufficiently  deep  to  admit  vessels  of  the 
largest  size  to  pass  with  perfect  safety,  and  then  ex- 
tending out  into  a  bay  thirty  miles  long,  and  fifteen 
broad,  and  being  favored  almost  every  day  with  both 
land  and  sea  breezes,  which  enable  vessels  readily  to 
pass  in  and  out,  being  of  suitable  depth  for  all  sizes  of 
vessels,  and  surrounded  by  mighty  mountain  barriers, 
which  break  off"  the  winds  on  every  side.  It  is  unques- 
tionably one  of  the  safest  and  most  commodious  anchor- 
ages on  the  whole  face  of  the  globe.  With  these  natural 
advantages  to  favor  her,  we  might  expect  that  Rio  would 
have  experienced  a  rapid  growth  from  the  time  when 
3 


58  VOYAGL^    TO    OREGON. 

Portugal  planted  her  first  colony  on  the  borders  of  that 
lovely  bay;  but  a  mistaken  policy,  developed  in  many 
periods  of  her  history,  has  tended  greatly  to  retard  her 
progress ;  and,  consequently,  she  continued  compara- 
tively small  until  Don  John,  the  Portuguese  king,  left 
the  mother  country,  and  removed  to  his  Brazilian  terri- 
tories, and  built  his  palace  within  the  precincts  of  this 
city.     This  circumstance  transpired  in  1803. 

At  the  present  time  the  city  is  one  of  considerable 
extent.  It  contains  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  inha- 
bitants, of  various  nations,  and  of  every  shade  of  com- 
plexion. Here  are  some  native  Portuguese,  more  native 
Brazilians,  a  fev^  French,  Africans,  Jevi^s,  Americans, 
and  about  one  thousand  English. 

The  city  lies  in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram,  and  some 
of  the  streets  present  a  splendid  appearance.  The  houses 
are  principally  built  with  stone,  and  are  covered  with 
tiles.  Some  of  the  buildings,  and  especially  the  royal 
palace,  and  some  of  the  churches  and  convents,  are 
splendid  specimens  of  architecture  ;  but  a  great  share  of 
the  city,  however,  appears  like  a  vast  assemblage  of 
state  prisons.  Rio  de  Janeiro  sufi:ers  much  in  point  of 
beauty  and  cleanliness,  when  compared  with  the  cities 
of  many  of  our  Eastern  and  Middle  States.  It  presents 
an  antiquated  and  sombre  aspect,  without  that  appear- 
ance of  fife  and  animation,  which  characterize  the  cities 
of  the  Anglo-Americans. 

The  religious  state  of  the  city  is  truly  deplorable. 
The  Roman  Catholic  religion  here  exists  in  all  its  name- 
less mummeries  and  superstitions.  "Strictly  speaking," 
said  a  Protestant  missionary  who  has  resided  three  years 
in  the  city,  "  there  is  no  religion  here."  This  same 
missionary  informed  me  that  of  all  the  people  with 
whom  he  had  become  acquainted  by  three  year's  resi- 
dence among  them,  there  were  but  two  that  he  had  the 
least  reason  to  suppose  were  christians,  in  the  proper 
sense  of  the  word. 

But,  if  true  religion  consists  in  the  erection  of  splendid 
cathedrals,  and  in  decorating  them  with  golden  images, 
and  the  lambent  flame  of  huge  wax  candles  constantly 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  69 

burning,  and  with  hangings  of  the  finest  embroidery;  or, 
if  it  consists  in  convents,  filled  with  priests  and  nuns, 
with  all  their  attendant  ceremonies  and  image  worship, 
then  Rio  de  Janeiro  contains  more  than  any  other  city  I 
have  ever  visited.  But,  if  it  consists  in  a  consecration 
of  soul  and  body  to  God,  and  a  life  corresponding  with 
the  gospel  of  Christ,  then,  of  the  tens  of  thousands  of 
Rio,  who  bear  the  christian  name,  how  few  are  pious! 
how  few  will  be  saved ! !  But  signs  of  a  better  state  of 
things  begin  to  show  themselves  in  this  bigoted  city. 
The  English  residents  have  a  minister  among  them,  and 
have  recently  built  a  church,  in  which  they  statedly 
worship  after  the  Protestant  form.  The  Rev.  J.  Spaul- 
ding  and  the  Rev.  D.  P.  Kidder,  of  whom  mention  has 
been  made,  were  laboring  with  energy  and  zeal,  in  the 
cause  of  their  Divine  Master,  both  in  preaching  the 
gospel  and  in  the  circulation  of  bibles  and  tracts.  These 
missionaries  w^ere  frequently  encouraged  in  their  labors 
of  love,  by  those  evidences  which  appeared  from  time 
to  time,  that  their  efforts  were  not  altogether  in  vain. 
An  individual,  through  the  influence  of  a  tract,  became 
dissatisfied  with  Popery,  and  came  to  Mr.  Spaulding  and 
earnestly  enquired  what  he  must  do  to  be  saved.  Sub- 
sequently he  partook  of  the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's 
supper  with  Protestants;  but  the  Romish  priests,  having 
ascertained  this,  determined,  at  all  hazards,  to  put  a  stop 
to  his  attending  Protestant  meetings.  Accordingly,  one 
morning,  when  this  gentleman  arose,  he  discovered  a 
paper  which  had  been  pushed  into  his  room  under  the 
door,  during  the  night.  He  took  up  the  paper  and  read 
in  substance  as  follows:  "  Unless  you  desist  from  attend- 
ing these  Protestant  associations,  you  may  expect  to  find 
yourself  stabbed."  This  circumstance  drove  him  almost 
to  despair,  but  subsequently  he  indulged  a  hope  in 
Christ,  and  discarded  the  Church  of  Rome  ;  but,  from 
fear  of  falling  a  victim  to  the  madness  of  bigoted  and 
persecuting  priests,  his  intercourse  with  the  Protestants 
was  carried  on  with  the  utmost  secrecy.  Thus  the  true 
leaven  was  working  in  spite  of  all  the  efforts  made  by 


60  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

the  Papists  to  suppress  it,  and  it  was  hoped  that  it  would 
continue  to  work  until  the  whole  lump  was  leavened. 

The  slavery  of  Rio  is  one  of  the  most  prominent 
characteristics  which  present  themselves  to  the  traveler, 
on  arriving  at  this  place.  And,  to  those  of  us  who  had 
never  seen  slavery  in  its  practical  effects,  it  was  "enough 
to  make  one's  heart  bleed,"  to  witness  these  ill-fated  sons 
of  Ham  driven  about  by  their  cruel  task-masters,  and 
compelled  to  perform  their  tasks  in  a  state  of  almost 
perfect  nudity,  exposed  to  the  burning  rays  of  a  vertical 
sun.  As  cruel,  however,  as  Brazilian  slavery  appears  to 
be  at  first  sight,  there  are  some  mitigating  circumstances 
connected  with  it,  when  compared  with  the  slavery  of 
some  other  countries.  Unlike  the  laws  in  the  Southern 
States  of  our  Repubhc,  which  give  the  master  the  same 
control  over  his  slaves  that  he  has  over  any  kind  of  pro- 
perty, those  of  Brazil  guarantee  to  the  slave  a  number 
of  important  privileges.  First,  the  slave  is  required  to 
labor  for  his  master  from  morning  until  two  o'clock, 
which  is  the  business  portion  of  the  day ;  and  the  re- 
mainder of  the  day  he  has  to  himself.  Second,  the  slave 
is  entitled,  by  law,  to  two  days  in  each  week  to  employ 
as  he  sees  fit.  These  two  provisions  give  the  slave 
nearly  one  half  of  the  time,  and  the  property  he  accumu- 
lates, when  thus  at  liberty,  belongs  to  himself  He  is 
compelled,  however,  to  procure  his  own  food,  without 
expense  to  his  master.  If,  by  industry  or  good  fortune, 
he  succeeds  in  obtaining  his  freedom,  which  is  not  an 
unfrequent  occurrence,  he  is  immediately  entitled  to  all 
the  privileges  of  a  freeman,  and  his  offspring  are  not 
liable  to  be  enslaved.  But,  notwithstanding  these  exte- 
nuating circumstances  connected  with  Brazilian  slavery, 
it  is  a  system  of  cruelty  and  oppression.  The  naked 
appearance  of  the  slaves,  the  ponderous  burdens  they  are 
compelled  to  bear,  their  frequent  flagellations,  and  when 
worn  out  with  fatigue,  their  lying  around  the  streets 
and  under  the  walls  of  buildings  Hke  cattle,  and  at  other 
times  like  horses  dragging  around  their  drays,  unmerci- 
fully loaded,   all  had  a   tendency  deeply  to  excite  our 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  61 

sympathies  for  suffering  humanity,  and  to  increase  our 
abhorrence  for  this  system  of  cruelty  and  blood.  It  was 
cheering,  while  beholding  some  of  the  worst  evils  of  the 
system,  to  indulge  the  reflection  that  the  time  will  come 
when  slavery  must  be  abolished  throughout  the  world. 
Incompatible  with  civil  and  religious  liberty,  and  opposed 
to  the  doctrine  of  Christ,  it  must  feel  the  paralyzing  in- 
fluence of  those  benevolent  principles  which  are  destined 
to  destroy  the  pride  and  tyranny  of  the  human  heart, 
and  to  induce  man  to  acknowledge  in  his  fellow  man,  an 
equal  and  a  brother.  Thus  it  appears,  that,  while  there 
are  a  few  things  in  and  about  Rio  which  are  calculated 
to  excite  our  admiration,  there  are  many  which  are  truly 
deplorable.  Enveloped  in  a  midnight  gloom,  forgetful 
of  her  God,  and  bound  with  chains  of  bigotry  and  super- 
stition, Rio  de  Janeiro  is  indeed  a  valley  of  the  shadow 
of  death.  But  the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  the  natural 
scenery  by  which  she  is  environed,  the  salubrity  of  the 
climate,  the  spontaneous  growth  of  the  most  delicious 
fruits,  with  all  the  natural  advantages  by  which  she  is 
distinguished,  in  connexion  with  the  pure  religion  of  the 
meek  and  lowly  Jesus,  would  constitute  her  an  earthly 
paradise. 


CHAPTER  in. 

Journal  continued  —  Departure  from  Rio  —  Rev.  Mr.  Spaulding  —  French  Fleet  ^ 
Violent  storm  —Flying  jib  boom  carried  away  — Dinner  lost  —  Storm  abates  — 
Christmas  —  Heat  —  Doubling  Cape  Horn  —  Gale  nineteen  days  —  Under  bare 
poles  —  Prosperity  —  Sight  of  land  —  Brig  Andes  —  Arrival  at  Valparaiso  — 
Small  pox  —  Danger  —  Description  of  the  city  —  Its  civil  and  political  condi- 
tion —  Religion —  Superstition,  illustrated  by  amusing  incidents  —  Protestantism 
—  Importance  of  Valparaiso  —  Adventui'es  round  about  the  city  —  Great  dis- 
crepancy —  Appropriate  name. 

The  time  fixed  upon  for  leaving  Rio,  to  proceed  on  our 
voyage,  v^as  Saturday  morning,  the  14th  of  December. 
Accordingly,  at  that  time,  we  w^ere  all  prepared  for 
v^^eighing  anchor  ;  but  a  strong  south  w^ind  commenced 
blovt^ing  directly  into  the  harbor,  and  detained  us  during 
the  w^hole  day.  In  the  mornmg,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Spaulding 
came  on  board,  and  continued  vi^ith  us  for  several  hours, 
during  w^hich  he  gave  us  a  very  interesting  address. 
He  also  gave  a  short  account  of  the  mission  in  Rio,  in 
which  he  related  some  striking  anecdotes,  illustrative 
of  the  success  with  which  his  labors  had  been  crowned. 
Before  leaving,  he  commended  us  to  God  and  to  the 
word  of  His  grace,  in  fervent  prayer,  and  then,  bidding 
us  an  affectionate  farewell,  lowered  himself  by  a  rope 
into  a  small  skiff,  which  lay  under  the  lee  of  the  Lau- 
sanne, and  was  conveyed  back  to  the  shore.  The  season 
was  one  of  deep  interest,  and  kindred  feelings  palpitated 
every  heart.  And,  as  this  fellow  missionary  left  us  to 
immure  himself  again  in  what  is  worse  than  heathenism 
itself,  we  could  but  invoke  the  God  of  battles  to  prepare 
his  way,  and  sustain  him  with  omnipotent  grace,  that  he 
might  witness  more  abundant  success  attending  his  la- 
bors, and  finally  see  the  man  of  sin  fall  to  rise  no  more. 

The  south  wind  had  abated  the  next  morning,  and  a 
land  breeze  was  favorable  for  our  leaving  the  harbor. 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGOM.  63 

Consequently,  after  the  customary  visits  by  government 
officers,  we  raised  the  anchor,  and  spreading  our  sails 
again  to  the  wind,  bid  adieu  to  the  dominions  of  Don 
Pedro  the  second,  and  w^ere  soon  tossed  upon  old  ocean's 
billows,  with  our  vessel's  prow  directed  towards  the 
cape  of  storms. 

The  same  morning,  a  French  fleet  of  war  of  eight 
sail,  weighed  anchor,  and  passed  majestically  out  of  the 
harbor  before  us.  This  fleet  was  destined  to  join  the 
blockading  squadron  before  Buenos  Ayres,  and  to  bom- 
bard the  city,  provided  the  United  Provinces  did  not 
comply  with  the  imperious  demands  of  the  French. 

The  first  day  out  we  had  a  violent  storm  ;  the  sea 
was  very  rough,  and  nearly  every  one  of  the  passengers 
was  called  again  to  suffer  with  sea  sickness.  In  the 
course  of  the  storm  the  vessel  encountered  a  number  of 
mountain  waves.  At  one  time,  through  the  carelessness 
of  the  helmsman,  she  plunged  her  bows  so  far  into  the 
water  that  her  jib  and  flying  jib  went  completely  under, 
and  when  she  rose,  her  flying  jib  b©om  was  carried  away, 
and  the  sails  were  both  rent  into  shreds  from  top  to  bot- 
tom, A  table  was  set  for  dinner  in  the  captain's  cabin, 
and  all  the  dishes  were  thrown  clear  from  the  table  into 
the  steward's  locker,  and  dashed  to  pieces.  The  shock 
given  to  the  vessel  was  exceedingly  violent,  and  caused 
it  to  tremble  in  every  joint  This  was  on  Sunday.  The 
following  day  the  wind  abated,  and,  changing  a  few 
points,  became  more  favorable.  For  a  number  of  sub- 
sequent days,  a  fine  breeze  wafted  us  rapidly  onwards, 
and  on  Christmas  day,  at  12  o'clock,  m.,  we  were  in 
latitude  thirty-nine  degrees,  thirty  minutes,  south- 

This  was  the  warmest  Christmas  we  had  ever  seen, 
the  thermometer  ranging  at  eighty  in  the  shade.  Rev. 
Jason  Lee  delivered,  on  the  occasion  of  Christmas,  an 
appropriate  discourse,  on  the  subject  of  the  advent  of 
Christ 

Wednesday,  January  8th,  1840.  For  a  number  of 
days  past  we  have  been  favored  with  a  prosperous  wind, 
and  are  now  within  four  degrees  of  Cape  Horn.  Thus 
far,  our   way   has   been   remarkably  prospered.      The 


64  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON, 

weather  is  now  very  calm,  with  a  gentle  breeze  from 
the  north-west ;  but  w^e  are  approaching  the  region  of 
storms,  and  can  scarcely  hope  to  double  the  Cape  with 
the  delightful  weather  we  are  now  experiencing. 

Friday,  10th.  According  to  our  expectations,  the 
slumbering  winds  were  aroused,  and  we  began  to  expe- 
rience the  difficulties  of  doubling  Cape  Horn.  About 
9  o'clock,  A.  M.,  a  severe  gale  came  down  upon  us  with 
the  most  threatening  violence.  Every  stitch  of  canvass 
was  immediately  taken  in,  and  for  more  than  forty-eight 
hours  we  lay  under  the  bare  poles,  the  very  sport  of 
both  wind  and  water.  The  gale  was  said  by  the  captain 
to  be  one  of  the  most  violent  he  had  ever  experienced. 
On  the  15th,  the  wind  had  so  far  abated  that  we  were 
able  again  to  carry  sail,  but  found  by  an  observation  at 
noon,  that  we  had  been  driven  several  degrees  out  of 
our  course. 

Monday,  27th.  For  many  days  past  we  have  been 
baffled  with  contrary  winds,  and  indeed  this  is  the  nine- 
teenth day  since  we  have  had  any  thing  like  a  fair  breeze. 
Our  course  has  been  west,  but  we  have  been  compelled 
to  run  almost  every  point  of  compass,  and  the  most  of 
the  time  to  contend  with  violent  gales.  In  consequence 
of  head  winds  we  were  carried  nearly  to  the  sixty-first 
degree  of  south  latitude  ;  and  Cape  Horn  being  in  the 
fifty-sixth,  we  were  nearly  three  hundred  miles  south  of 
the  Cape.  By  an  observation  this  day  we  found  our 
longitude  to  be  sixty-eight  degrees,  twelve  minutes, 
which  is  a  few  miles  west  of  the  Diegoes.  We  have 
therefore  left  the  Atlantic  ocean,  and  are  now  on  the 
waters  of  the  Pacific.  It  is  not  common  for  vessels  to 
be  driven  so  far  to  the  south  in  doubling  the  Cape. 
Perhaps  the  greater  part  pass  round  within  sight  of  the 
Cape  or  the  Diegoes  ;  but  the  only  land  discernible  from 
our  vessel,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Cape,  was  States  Land, 
which  presented  its  lofty  summit  to  our  view  the  day 
before  we  experienced  the  commencement  of  the  Cape 
Horn  gales.  Though  it  was  midsummer,  in  the  southern 
hemisphere,  while  we  were  doubling  the  Cape,  yet  at 
sixty-one  degrees  we  found  it  excessively  cold.      Hail 


VOYAGE  TO  OREGON.  65 

frequently  fell  on  deck,  and  though  no  icebergs  appeared 
in  sight,  it  was  judged,  from  the  coldness  of  the  atmos- 
phere, that  they  were  at  no  great  distance.  At  this 
season  of  the  year,  in  this  latitude,  the  sun  rises  a  few 
minutes  after  three  and  sets  a  few  minutes  before  nine, 
and  daylight  scarcely  disappears  during  the  whole  night. 
We  have  to  proceed  but  seven  degrees  farther  south, 
and  the  day  will  be  one  month  long,  at  the  sun's  farthest 
declination  south. 

During  our  long  detention  here,  by  successive  storms, 
we  were  frequently  entertained  by  the  appearance  of 
the  huge  monsters  of  the  deep,  and  a  vast  variety  of  the 
feathered  tribes  of  the  ocean.  Whales,  lashing  the  briny 
element,  and  spouting  the  huge  spray  high  into  the  air ; 
porpoises,  gamboling  over  the  waves  like  flocks  of  ante- 
lopes over  the  western  plains  ;  the  auk  or  penguin,  which 
is  a  Hnk  connecting  the  feathered  with  the  finny  tribe, 
with  the  albatros,  stormy  petrel,  cape  pigeon  and  many 
others,  appeared  from  time  to  time  around  us,  in  large 
numbers,  contributing  much  to  amuse  us,  and  diverting 
our  attention  even  from  the  successive  tempests,  that 
howled  around  us  for  nineteen  days. 

On  the  28th,  Providence  again  favored  us  with  a  fair 
wind,  and  enabled  us  to  direct  our  course  to  the  north, 
and  for  several  days  we  were  carried  forward  at  the 
rate  of  seven  and  nine  knots  an  hour. 

On  the  3d  of  February,  we  found  ourselves  off  the 
western  entrance  of  the  Straits  of  Magellan. 

Our  passage  round  the  Cape  was  a  stormy  one  for  the 
season  of  the  year,  but  the  winds  and  waves  were  under 
the  control  of  the  Almighty,  who  seemed  to  smile  on 
our  enterprise,  and  interpose  in  our  behalf  while  naviga- 
ting the  tempestuous  waters  of  the  southern  ocean. 

We  now  steered  our  course  for  Valparaiso,  on  the 
coast  of  Chili,  where  we  intended  to  take  in  water  and 
other  supplies.  Our  passage  up  the  coast  was  barren  of 
incident  worthy  of  special  notice,  until  the  morning  of 
the  18th,  when  our  eyes  were  once  more  delighted  with 
the  sight  of  land,  the  coast  of  Chili,  about  forty  miles 
3* 


66  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

south  of  Valparaiso  Head,  presenting  its  dark  outlines 
thirty  miles  distant  over  our  starboard  bow. 

The  wind  died  away  as  we  approached  the  shore,  and 
we  were  consequently  unable  to  proceed  directly  into 
port.  A  number  of  vessels  appeared  near  us,  bound  to 
the  same  place,  with  one  of  which  we  had  a  friendly 
interview.  She  proved  to  be  the  brig  Andes,  of  Liver- 
pool, forty-eight  days  from  Sydney,  New  South  Wales. 
We  had  a  shower  of  rain,  with  lightning,  at  ten  o'clock, 
and  the  rest  of  the  day  were  becalmed  within  ten  miles 
of  land.  A  dead  swell  bore  us  slowly  towards  the  shore, 
and  in  the  evening  we  could  distinctly  hear  the  surf  of 
the  ocean,  breaking  against  the  rocks.  The  captain 
manifested  great  anxiety,  lest  we  might  be  dashed  to 
pieces  on  the  iron  bound  coast.  At  twelve  o'clock  at 
night  a  light  breeze  sprung  up,  and  enabled  us  to  remove 
to  a  safer  distance  from  the  shore.  The  following  morn- 
ing, after  the  rising  sun  had  dissipated  the  fog  that 
enveloped  the  shore,  the  high  bluffs,  called  Valparaiso 
Head,  appeared  directly  before  us.  A  fresh  ocean 
breeze  sprang  up,  and  bore  us  directly  towards  the 
harbor,  and  on  our  right  appeared  a  beautiful  bay, 
which  washed  a  broad  and  delightful  sandy  beach. 
Variety  was  given  to  the  prospect,  by  the  appearance 
of  strange  looking  birds  on  the  wing,  passing  from  one 
side  of  the  bay  to  the  other.  At  noon  we  rounded 
Valparaiso  Head,  and  the  city,  harbor,  and  shipping 
were  spread  out  in  full  view  before  us.  We  dropped 
our  anchor  half  a  mile  distant  from  the  landing,  and 
were  immediately  boarded  by  government  officers,  who 
examined  us  before  permitting  us  to  go  on  shore.  A 
number  of  American  gentlemen  also  came  on  board,  and 
showed  themselves  remarkably  polite  and  friendly.  They 
informed  us  that  the  small  pox  had  made  terrible  havoc 
among  the  inhabitants  of  the  place,  especially  the  natives, 
but  that  it  had,  in  a  measure,  subsided.  They  said  that 
all  the  foreigners  who  had  been  vaccinated,  had  entirely 
escaped,  and  that  they  did  not  apprehend  there  would 
be  any  danger  in  our  going  ashore,  and  purchasing  what- 


VOYAGE  TO  OREGON.  67 

ever  necessaries  we  desired ;  that  there  would  be  as 
much  danger  in  taking  the  disease  from  those  who  came 
on  board  from  the  shore,  as  from  going  on  shore  our- 
selves. Accordingly  we  came  to  the  conclusion  to  act 
as  though  no  fatal  epidemic  prevailed  in  Valparaiso, 
except  that,  on  going  ashore,  we  would  avoid  those 
places  where  the  disease  continued  to  rage  most,  espe- 
cially the  hospital,  presuming  that,  in  our  case  also, 
vaccination  would  prove  a  safeguard  against  contracting 
the  disease.  Having  attended  to  the  preliminaries,  a 
number  of  the  passengers  accompanied  the  captain  on 
shore,  and,  upon  landing,  found  the  city  of  Valparaiso 
much  as  it  appears  to  be  on  entering  the  harbor,  very 
forbidding  in  its  aspects.  The  streets  are  generally 
narrow,  and  badly  paved,  and  the  houses  are  generally 
low,  being  but  one  story.  This  is  designed  to  preserve 
them  from  the  destructive  effects  of  the  frequent  earth- 
quakes, which  take  place  along  the  ChiHan  coast. 

The  city  lies  around  a  beautiful  bay  which  constitutes 
its  harbor,  and  is  about  one  mile  and  a  half  long,  and 
varying  much  in  breadth  in  consequence  of  the  moun- 
tains behind  the  city,  which,  in  some  places,  extend  down 
nearly  to  the  shore  of  the  bay.  These  mountains  have 
been  dug  away  at  their  base,  so  as  to  afford  room  for 
two  or  three  tiers  of  buildings  back  from  the  shore. 

This  space  being  filled,  the  inhabitants  retired  back  on 
the  sides  of  the  mountains,  where  there  are  a  number  of 
contracted  plains,  which  form  eligible  sites  for  building. 
Here  a  number  of  gentlemen,  mostly  foreigners,  have 
erected  their  fine  cottages,  and  live  in  princely  style. 
But  in  the  hill  part  of  the  city,  as  well  as  near  the  shore, 
there  is  but  httle  regularity  or  beauty.  The  number  of 
inhabitants  is  variously  estimated  from  eight  to  twelve 
thousand,  among  which  are  fifty  Americans,  and  some 
English,  Germans  and  French.  The  foreigners  are  by 
far  the  most  interesting  part  of  the  population,  and  do 
nearly  all  the  heavy  business  of  the  place. 

The  civil  and  political  condition  of  the  country  was 
any  thing  but  prosperous.  The  people  were  frequently 
breaking  out  in  rebellion  •  the  city  was  under  martial 


68  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON, 

law,  and  the  whole  country  seemed  to  be  verging  to- 
wards a  state  of  anarchy.  It  was  the  time  of  theii 
election,  and  such  was  the  excitement  that  prevailed, 
particularly  among  the  peasantry,  that  it  was  extremely 
dangerous  for  foreigners  to  go  far  back  from  the  city,  as 
they  were  generally  taken  to  be  the  enemies  of  the 
Republic,  and  were  looked  upon,  by  the  Chilians,  as  theii 
lawful  prey.  Robberies  and  murders  were  frequent 
and  from  the  weakness  and  inefficiency  of  the  govern- 
ment, were  committed  with  impunity.  However,  the 
Chilians  are  quite  partial  to  Americans,  because  they  are 
citizens  of  a  sister  Republic. 

The  religion  of  the  country  is  Romanism,  which  here 
exhibits  itself  in  all  its  principles  of  intolerance  and  per- 
secution, as  well  as  in  its  superstitions  and  bigotry.  A 
circumstance  or  two,  illustrative  of  the  ignorance  and 
superstition  of  the  Chilian  Papists,  I  will  relate.  At  the 
time  of  the  great  earthquake,  in  1822,  which  nearly 
destroyed  the  city  of  Conception,  and  greatly  injured 
Valparaiso,  when  the  shock  was  first  felt  in  the  latter, 
a  large  number  of  the  inhabitants  fled  for  safety  to  the 
Catholic  cathedral,  under  the  impression  that  Heaven 
would  interpose  in  behalf  of  the  sacred  edifice,  and  pre- 
vent its  destruction.  To  render  themselves  still  more 
secure  against  the  danger  which  threatened  them,  they 
took  down  the  venerable  images  of  St.  Peter  and  St. 
Paul,  from  the  places  they  had  occupied  from  time 
immemorial,  and  placed  them  as  a  guard  at  the  door  of 
the  cathedral.  The  principal  seat  of  the  earthquake 
being  in  the  sea,  the  water  rushed  from  its  bed  into  the 
city  ;  the  foundations  of  the  city  trembled  ;  the  earth 
heaved  with  convulsions,  and  the  cathedral,  with  one 
tremendous  crash,  tumbled  into  a  heap  of  ruins,  and 
five  hundred  persons  were  either  killed  by  the  falling 
walls  and  timbers  of  the  building,  or  drowned  by  the 
flood  of  waters  that  deluged  the  place.  The  shock  sub- 
sided ;  the  waters  returned  to  their  place  ;  and  the  next 
day  the  images  of  Peter  and  Paul  were  found  floating 
in  the  harbor.  The  indignant  survivors  took  the  image 
of  Peter,   he  being  the  more  guilty  of   the   two,   and 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 


perforated  a  hole  through  his  body,  and  pinned  him  upon 
the  beach,  at  low  water  mark,  as  a  punishment  for  his 
cowardice,  and  for  deserting  them  in  the  hour  of  danger. 
As  he  abandoned  them  to  so  awful  a  calamity,  they 
abandoned  him  to  the  fury  of  the  waveg. 

Although  the  laws  of  Ghili  do  not  tolerate  any  religion 
but  Romanism,  yet  there  is  a  minister  of  the  Enghsh 
church  in  the  city,  who  is  permitted  to  preach  to  the 
foreign  residents  without  molestation.  They  will  not 
permit  a  Protestant  to  preach  in  the  language  of  the 
country;  if  one  should  attempt  it,  he  would  immediately 
be  driven  from  their  coast,  or  forfeit  his  life.  As  a  mat- 
ter of  course,  there  is  but  little  chance  for  missionary 
operations  among  the  people,  except  so  far  as  the  Enghsh, 
American  and  German  residents  are  concerned.  Among 
these  an  intelligent,  prudent,  and  devoted  missionary, 
might  render  himself  abundantly  useful.  But  the  time 
will  come,  notwithstanding  the  fierce  opposition  that 
now  rages  against  Protestantism,  W"hen  the  vain  mumme- 
ries of  Popery  must  pass  away,  and  the  darkness  that 
now  shrouds  the  people  with  a  midnight  gloom,  shall  be 
succeeded  by  the  light  of  the  glorious  Sun  of  righteous- 
ness, which  shall  rise  upon  this  benighted  country  with 
healing  in  his  wings. 

The  importance  of  Valparaiso  lies  in  its  eligible  situa- 
tion for  commerce,  it  being  the  entrepot  for  a  great 
portion  of  the  Republic  of  Chili.  The  high  hills  or 
mountains,  which  surround  the  city  on  three  sides,  and 
extend  many  miles  back,  are  actually  as  barren  as  their 
appearance  from  the  ocean  indicates,  affording  but  a 
scanty  allowance  of  vegetation  for  a  few  sheep,  goats, 
and  donkeys.  All  the  supplies  of  fruit,  meat,  vegetables, 
&c.,  for  the  city  and  shipping,  are  brought  on  the  backs 
of  mules  and  asses,  from  valleys  which  lie  from  forty  to 
a  hundred  miles  distant ;  and  even  the  wood  for  fire, 
brickbats,  tiles,  and  other  materials  for  building,  are 
brought  in  the  same  manner. 

With  this  description  of  the  place,  I  now  proceed  to 
relate  a  few  adventures.  Immediately  on  landing,  we 
proceeded  up   through  the  city  ;    took  a  view  of  the 


70  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

custom  house,  which,  by  the  way,  is  a  fine  building  ; 
went  into  a  number  of  stores,  and  finally  came  round  to 
the  market,  where  we  found  an  abundance  of  fruit,  similar 
to  that  of  New  York.  We  regaled  ourselves  on  peaches, 
pears,  plums,  grapes,  &c.,  but  soon  discovered  a  boy 
lying  near  us  on  a  couch,  and  partly  covered  with  a  rug. 
We  enquired  what  the  matter  was  with  him,  and  were 
informed  that  he  was  just  recovering  from  the  small  pox. 
Looking  around  us,  we  saw  a  number  in  a  similar  condi- 
tion, and  concluded  that  we  should  give  the  virtue  of 
vaccination  a  faithful  trial.  Tying  up  some  fruit  in  our 
handkerchiefs  for  our  families  on  board,  we  returned  to 
the  vessel  for  the  night. 

Not  being  able  to  weigh  anchor  the  next  morning  as 
we  expected,  we  entertained  ourselves  with  another 
excursion  on  shore.  Purchasing  a  few  articles  to  take 
back  to  the  ship  when  we  returned,  we  bent  our  course 
up  the  beach,  south  of  the  city,  and  taking  a  narrow 
footpath,  which  wound  up  a  steep  declivity,  soon  found 
ourselves  on  an  artificial  steppe  of  some  thirty  or  forty 
•feet  square,  and  which  commanded  a  beautiful  view  of 
the  bay  and  harbor  of  Valparaiso.  From  this  we 
ascended  another  decHvity  one  hundred  feet  high,  nearly 
perpendicular,  and  from  its  top  enjoyed  a  lovely  prospect 
of  the  city  and  surrounding  -country.  Continuing  our 
course,  we  passed  a  number  of  deep  ravines,  climbed  a 
number  of  high  bluflfs,  and  came  to  the  lighthouse,  which 
stands  on  the  summit  of  Valparaiso  Head.  From  this 
place,  we  discovered,  near  the  shore,  a  cross  erected  on 
a  rock,  and  approaching  it,  found  that  it  was  the  sign  of 
a  burying  ground,  or  rather  a  depository  for  dead  bodies. 
In  the  language  of  scripture  it  might  be  called  "Golgo- 
tha, the  place  of  a  skull  ; "  for  the  ground  was  literally 
covered  with  human  bones.  Here  had  been  dug  a  deep 
hole  about  twelve  feet  square,  into  which  those  who  had 
died  with  the  small  pox  in  the  city,  had  been  indiscrimi- 
nately thrown.  They  were  conveyed  here  from  the 
hospital,  and  other  places,  in  carts  and  wheelbarrows, 
so  soon  as  they  were  dead,  and  perhaps  sometimes  be- 
fore ;    and,  uncoflined  and  unshrouded,  were  cast  into 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  71 

one  common  reservoir,  where  their  bones  will  mingle, 
undistinguished,  till  the  resurrection  morn.  Turning 
from  this  sickening  sight,  we  proceeded  over  a  high 
point  of  land,  and  came  down  to  the  shore  of  a  beautiful 
bay,  which  constituted  a  resort  for  a  variety  of  sea  fowl; 
and  having  refreshed  ourselves  with  bread,  and  bathed 
in  the  ocean,  we  collected  a  few  shells  and  other  curiosi- 
ties, and  turned  our  course  backward  towards  the  landing. 
Rising  over  a  high  and  barren  hill,  in  the  rear  of  the 
city,  we  entered  a  deep  ravine,  very  narrow  at  the  bot- 
ton,  and  forming  a  channel  for  a  small  rill  of  water. 
Each  bank  was  covered  with  a  spontaneous  growth  of 
the  sage  plant  and  other  shrubbery,  while,  by  the  side 
of  the  brook,  groups  of  females  from  the  city  were 
seen,  who  had  resorted  thither  for  the  purpose  of  wash- 
ing their  clothes.  As  we  passed  down  the  narrow  path 
which  had  been  cut  into  the  almost  perpendicular  sides 
of  the  mountains,  we  met  a  large  number  of  donkeys 
driven  by  natives,  with  two  casks  slung  across  each  one 
of  their  backs  for  the  purpose  of  conveying  into  the  city. 
For  some  distance  up  this  ravine,  there  are  dwellings 
erected  where  there  is  sufficient  room,  and  in  many 
places  small  mud-walled  cottages  have  been  stuck  into 
the  side  of  the  mountain,  where  places  have  been  exca- 
vated for  that  purpose.  This  ravine  led  us  directly  into 
the  back  part  of  the  city  ;  and,  after  taking  a  view  of 
the  cathedral,  which  had  been  rebuilt  on  the  same  site 
since  its  destruction  by  the  earthquake,  and  collecting  a 
few  necessaries  for  the  comfort  of  our  families  on  oui 
continued  voyage,  we  bid  adieu  to  the  Chilian  coast, 
very  unfavorably  impressed  as  regards  the  condition  of 
the  country. 

One  thing  which  particularly  struck  us  on  examining 
the  city  of  Valparaiso  and  the  country  in  its  immediate 
vicinity,  was  the  wonderful  discrepancy  .betwixt  the 
name  and  the  place.  Valpaj'aiso  signifies  Yale  of  Para- 
dise ;  and  certainly  no  word  has  ever  been  more  abused 
than  this,  in  its  application  to  this  place.  Considering  its 
irregularity;  the  narrowness  and  filthiness  of  the  streets  ; 
the  squalid  appearance  of  many  of  its  inhabitants  ;  the 


72  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

obscenity  which  presents  itself  in  almost  every  direc- 
tion ;  the  loathsome  diseases  which  prevail ;  the  gloomy 
character  of  its  religion,  and  the  barrenness  of  the  sur- 
rounding country,  Valparaiso  is  well  entitled  to  a  re- 
baptism,  and  might  appropriately  be  called,  the  "  Valley 
of  the  Shadow  of  Death. " 


CHAPTEH  lY. 

Journal  continued  —  Raising  anchor  —  View  of  tiie  Andes  —  Brig  —  Pacific  ocean 
rightly  named  —  Capture  of  a  sea  monster  —  Difficulty  among  the  sailors  — 
Spoken  by  a  whaler  —  Captain  Sawyer  —  Island  of  Mowi  —  Hawaii  —  Oahu — 
Honolulu  — Remarks  on  the  Island— Oahu  and  its  city  —  Sabbath  —  Introduction 
to  the  royal  family  —  Interview  —  Anniversary  of  the  landing  of  missionaries  — 
Visit  to  the  Para  —  Battle  ground  —  Kamehameha  I.  —  Waiakiki  —  Valley  of 
Manoah  —  Source  of  prosperity  —  Difficulty  with  the  French  —  Arrogance  of 
Captain  La  Place  —  Impression  upon  the  Hawaiians. 

On  the  morning  of  the  22d  of  Febraar}^,  we  were  all 
ready  to  proceed  on  our  voyage,  and  commenced  raising 
our  anchor,  but  the  anchor  of  a  French  barque  getting 
foul  of  ours,  we  were  obliged  to  raise  both  at  the  same 
time,  and  were  consequently  detained  until  four  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon.  At  this  time  a  land  breeze  favored  our 
departure,  and  again  unfurling  our  canvass  to  the  wind, 
we  directed  our  course  for  the  Sandwich  Islands.  After 
we  had  proceeded  a  few  miles  from  the  shore,  we 
enjoyed,  from  the  deck  of  our  vessel,  a  clear  and  distinct 
view  of  the  towering  Cordilleras.  This  astonishing  range 
of  mountains,  which  extends  from  the  Isthmus  of  Darien 
to  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  is  situated  here,  sixty  or 
seventy  miles  from  the  shore,  and  there  is  something 
peculiarly  grand  in  their  appearance  at  this  vast  distance; 
and  surely  a  near  view  must  be  sublime  beyond  descrip- 
tion. Some  of  them  present  a  white  appearance,  as  if 
covered  with  snow,  and  others  assume  a  sombre  hue, 
representing  the  moral  darkness  which  surrounds  the 
whole  country.  Some  of  them  Hft  their  towering  sum- 
mits far  above  the  clouds,  and  seem  to  look  down  with 
contempt  upon  the  storms  which  howl  around  their  base. 
While  contemplating  this  most  stupendous  range  of 
mountains  on  the  globe,  a  fine  breeze   from  the  south 


74  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

filled  our  already  expanded  sails,  and  in  forty-eight  hours 
we  had  run  four  hundred  miles. 

On  Tuesday,  the  25th,  an  American  brig  showed  us 
the  stars  and  stripes;  we  returned  the  compliment,  and 
passed  on.  On  the  28th,  we  passed  into  the  torrid  zone, 
but  still  found  the  weather  comfortably  cool,  the  mercury 
standing  at  sixty-seven  degrees  in  the  shade.  The  small 
pox  not  appearing  among  us  the  tenth  day  out,  we  con- 
cluded that  all  had  escaped  without  catching  the  disease. 
For  this  indication  of  Providential  care,  we  felt  to  offer 
unfeigned  thanksgiving. 

The  ocean  which  washes  the  western  shore  of  the 
continent  of  North  America,  is  pacific,  both  in  name  and 
nature.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  pleasantness  of  our 
saihng  for  twenty-five  days  after  leaving  Valparaiso. 
The  wind  was  constant  from  the  south-east,  never 
strong,  and  consequently  the  ocean  was  smooth  ;  and, 
with  little  perceptible  motion,  we  were  borne  along  from 
one  to  two  hundred  miles  per  day. 

On  the  19th  of  March  we  re-crossed  the  equinoctial 
line  at  west  longitude  one  hundred  and  sixteen  degrees. 
We  found  the  weather,  in  the  region  of  the  equator,  not 
so  warm  as  we  anticipated,  yet,  at  night,  the  heat  in  the 
cabin  was  somewhat  oppressive;  but  during  the  day  we 
were  constantly  fanned  by  the  gentle  and  cooling  breeze 
which  wafted  us  onward  towards  our  destination. 

On  the  23d,  the  monotony  of  our  voyage  was  broken 
in  upon  by  the  capture  of  one  of  the  monsters  of  the 
deep.  Two  uncommonly  large  sharks  appeared  on  our 
stern,  attended  by  pilot  fish,  and  a  number  albicores. 
The  pilot  fish  is  the  jackall  of  the  lion  of  the  deep,  and  it 
is  said  that  the  albicore  usually  follows  in  the  train,  for 
the  purpose  of  sharing  in  the  prey  taken  by  the  shark. 
We  fastened  a  rope  to  a  large  shark  hook,  which  we 
baited  with  a  piece  of  pork,  and  cast  it  into  the  sea. 
The  sharks  were  soon  attracted  by  it,  and  one  of  them 
seizing  the  bait,  the  sailors  drew  upon  the  rope,  and  the 
hook  fastened  to  his  upper  jaw,  but  it  required  several 
men  to  draw  him  up  along  side  the  ship,  and  it  was 
necessary  to  rig  a  pulley  before  he  could  be  hoisted  over 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  75 

the  bulwarks  on  to  the  deck.  As  this  was  the  first  view 
we  had  had  of  a  shark,  no  httle  curiosity  was  excited  on 
board  by  his  appearance  among  us.  This  curiosity  was 
not  satisfied  until  even  the  physiology  of  his  sharkship 
was  thoroughly  investigated  by  dissection.  One  claimed 
his  back  bone,  one  his  jaw  bone,  one  his  teeth,  one  his 
fins,  and  another  his  tail ;  the  remainder  was  cast  back 
into  the  ocean,  and  soon  devoured.  In  addition  to  the 
shark,  there  appeared,  about  the  same  time,  two  large 
sword  fish,  bounding  out  of  the  water,  and  showing  their 
silvery  sides,  but  we  were  obliged  to  be  satisfied  to  view 
them  at  a  distance,  as  they  manifested  no  inclination  to 
be  captured. 

On  the  24th,  having  passed  through  the  region  of 
variables,  we  were  favored  with  a  strong  north-east 
trade,  and,  during  one  week,  we  sailed  the  distance  of 
thirteen  hundred  miles;  but,  on  the  morning  of  the  31st, 
the  weather  became  squally.  This  was  supposed  to  be 
occasioned  by  our  contiguity  to  a  number  of  small 
islands,  which  lay  to  the  windward  of  us. 

It  had  been  the  practice  of  some  of  the  ministers  on 
board,  to  preach  occasionally  to  the  sailors  in  the  fore- 
castle, and,  apparently,  considerable  good  had  been 
accomplished  in  this  manner.  Many  of  them  had  be- 
come very  serious,  and  a  few  had  professed  to  experi- 
ence a  change  of  heart;  but  a  circumstance  transpired 
on  the  24th,  which  was  as  afflicting  to  all  on  board  as  it 
was  injurious  to  the  sailors.  Charley,  the  sail  maker,  a 
Dane  by  birth,  being  a  pestilent  fellow,  though  a  favorite 
among  the  seamen,  refused  to  perform,  immediately,  the 
pleasure  of  the  mate,  Mr.  Farrington.  The  latter  re- 
quired Charley  to  carry  a  musket  from  the  bow  of  the 
ship  back  towards  the  stern,  but  not  doing  it  so  soon  as 
it  was  supposed  he  ought,  Farrington  drew  his  fist,  and 
smote  Charley  back  of  the  ear,  and  knocked  him  on  the 
windlass,  so  that  he  received  a  severe  wound  in  the 
head.  The  blood  ran  freely;  the  sailors  became  much 
excited,  and  resolved  that  there  should  be  no  more 
preaching  among  them,  but  subsequently  recalled  this 
resolution,  and  allowed  us  to  continue  our  instructions. 


76  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

They  were  a  heterogeneous  class,  being  composed  of 
Danes,  Prussians,  Germans,  English,  Irish  and  Yankees. 

On  the  3d  of  April,  we  discovered  a  sail  on  our 
larboard  quartei',  about  six  miles  off.  She  appeared 
desirous  of  speaking  with  us,  and  soon  there  appeared  a 
speck  on  the  water  between  the  two  vessels,  which  after 
a  while  could  be  distinguished  as  a  whale  boat  approach- 
ing us.  We  luffed  up  to  the  wind,  and  waited  for  her 
to  come  along  side.  Soon  she  was  under  the  lee  of  the 
Lausanne.  She  contained  six  men,  two  Americans,  one 
of  whom  was  the  captain,  one  African,  and  three  Sand- 
wich Islanders.  •  The  captain  came  on  board,  and  re- 
ported his  ship  as  the  whaler  Fama,  of  Boston,  seventeen 
months  from  home,  and  himself  as  Captain  Sawyer.  He 
appeared  highly  gratified  to  receive  ''news  from  home," 
though  what  we  brought  was  nearly  six  months  old. 
The  Kanakas,  or  Sandwich  Islanders,  were  stout,  noble- 
looking  fellows,  and  Mr.  Dibble,  the  Presbyterian  mis- 
sionary, understanding  the  Hawaiian  language,  entered 
into  conversation  with  them.  He  learned  from  them 
that  both  the  king  and  queen  of  the  Islands  were  con- 
verted, and  had  become  members  of  the  Church.  He 
also  learned  that  the  king  had  removed  his  residence 
from  Honolulu,  on  the  island  of  Oahu,  to  Lahina,  on 
Mowi,  in  consequence  of  the  temptation  to  drunkeness 
which  beset  him  in  the  former  place,  he  having  been 
intemperate  previous  to  his  conversion.  This  is  a  fine 
example  for  converted  drunkards.  Let  them  remove  as 
far  as  possible  from  the  cause  of  their  ruin.  Captain 
Sawyer,  after  having  obtained  a  few  potatoes  and  other 
vegetables,  which  are  always  a  great  rarity  to  whale- 
men a  long  time  out,  left  us  to  pursue  our  course,  and 
returned  to  his  hazardous  employment. 

Tuesday,  the  8th,  at  eleven  o'clock,  the  island  of 
Mowi  presented  its  high  bluffs  to  our  view  about  forty 
miles  to  the  south-west  of  us,  making  it  forty-five  days 
since  we  lost  sight  of  Chihan  coast.  We  could  also 
indistinctly  see  the  high  mountains  of  Owyhee,  or  Ha- 
waii, which,  however,  were  about  seventy  miles  off. 

Between  these  two  islands  is  a  channel  thirty  miles 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  77 

wide.  On  Hawaii  is  a  burning  mountain,  which  is 
considered  a  great  curiosity.  In  consequence  of  a  suc- 
cession of  calms  and  squalls,  we  were  detained  off  the 
islands  longer  than  we  anticipated. 

For  several  days  the  weather  was  dark  and  gloomy, 
the  sea  ran  high,  the  rain  fell  in  torrents,  and  we  thought 
of  the  fate  of  the  Lark,  which  was  lost  on  the  coral 
reef,  which  surrounds  the  island  of  Hawaii.  In  the 
evening  of  the  10th,  however,  we  came  in  sight  of 
Morokai,  another  of  the  group;  but  not  considering  it 
safe  to  run  down  the  channel  in  the  night,  we  tacked 
ship  and  lay  to  the  wind.  The  following  morning  the 
island  of  Oahu  could  be  distinctly  seen  in  the  misty 
distance.  This  island  presents  an  excellent  waymark 
for  navigators,  and  is  known  by  one  of  its  high  moun- 
tains, which  appears  to  rise  out  of  the  ocean  in  the  form 
of  a  sugar  loaf.  At  twelve  o'clock  of  the  11th,  we 
had  Diamond  Hill  in  full  view  before  us,  and  there 
appeared  something  across  a  large  bay  which  Mr.  Dibble 
informed  us  was  the  city  of  Honolulu.  Presently,  we 
were  abreast  of  the  city,  though  at  the  distance  of  four 
miles.  The  channel  into  the  harbor  being  pointed  out 
by  Mr.  Dibble,  our  course  was  directed  towards  it,  and 
we  were  soon  boarded  by  an  old  gentleman  who  acts  as 
pilot  for  the  harbor.  In  a  few  moments  our  anchor  was 
dropped  in  the  roads  outside  the  coral  reef  which  encir- 
cles the  island  of  Oahu.  We  immediately  received  a 
visit  from  the  U.  S.  consul,  Mr.  Brinsmade,  and  Captain 
Stetson.  The  latter  is  the  son-in-law  of  the  Rev.  John 
Lindsey,  of  New  York,  and  resided  on  the  island  of 
Towi.  He  had  been  waiting  for  our  arrival  for  five 
weeks.  These  two  gentlemen,  after  paying  their 
respects,  returned  to  the  shore,  and  provided  accommo- 
dations for  about  twelve  of  the  passengers  for  the 
following  night. 

The  next  day,  the  vessel  was  brought  into  the  inner 
harbor,  and  provision  was  made  for  a  number  of  other 
families,  but  some  were  under  the  necessity  of  continu- 
mg  on  board  over  the  Sabbath.  On  Monday,  however, 
our  indefatigable  friends,  the  consul  and  Captain  Stetson, 


78  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

succeeded  in  procuring  comfortable  lodgings  for  all  the 
passengers  during  their  stay  on  the  island.  The  consul 
is  a  member  of  the  Presbyterian  church,  and  Captain 
Stetson  is  a  member  of  the  M.  E.  Church.  Both,  by 
their  unremitting  attention  to  our  wants,  secured  our 
warmest  affection.  The  members  of  the  Presbyterian 
mission,  and  many  of  the  foreign  residents,  extended  to 
us  that  cordial  hospitality  which  is  seldom  exhibited  to 
a  company  of  strangers.  It  fell  to  my  lot,  with  my 
family,  to  be  entertained  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Johnstone, 
the  teachers  of  Oahu  Charity  School,  whose  dwelHng 
commands  a  fine  view  of  the  mountain  scenery,  the 
rolling  surf,  and  the  city  and  harbor  of  Honolulu. 

The  Sandwich  Islands  are  ten  in  number,  Hawaii 
being  the  principal  in  extent  and  the  number  of  its 
inhabitants,  but  Oahu  first  in  point  of  commercial  impor- 
tance. They  once  contained  several  hundred  thousand 
inhabitants,  but  of  late  years,  their  population  has 
greatly  decreased.  This,  doubtless,  has  been  the  result 
of  their  connexion  with  foreigners;  and  strange  as  it 
may  appear,  christian  nations  have  introduced  those 
means  into  the  Sandwich  Islands,  that  are  destined  to 
prove  the  destruction  of  the  Hawaiian  nation.  Intem- 
perance, with  its  concomitant  evils,  threatens  the  ruin 
of  these  islands,  but  thanks  to  an  overruling  Providence, 
with  the  seeds  of  death,  a  conservative  influence  has 
been  introduced.  The  cross  of  Christ  has  been  erected 
on  these  shores,  and  thousands  have  rallied  around  it. 
There  are  forty  families  of  missionaries  scattered  over 
these  islands,  who  are  supported  by  the  American  Board 
of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions,  whose  labors 
have  been  crowned  with  wonderful  success.  Of  the 
one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants  which  the  islands  now 
contain,  seventeen  thousand  are  members  of  the  church, 
and  Paganism  has  no  existence  in  the  group. 

The  island  of  Oahu  is  about  sixty  miles  long  and  forty 
broad,  and  contains  a  population  of  about  twenty  thou- 
sand souls.  The  city  of  Honolulu  is  by  far  the  most 
noted  place  on  the  island,  as  it  is  the  commercial  empo- 
rium for  the  whole  group.     It  is  delightfully  situated  on 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  79 

a  beautiful  plain,  and  surrounded  with  the  most  enchant- 
ing scenery,  variegated  w^ith  ocean,  hills,  cloud-capped 
mountains,  and  rich  and  fertile  vales. 

The  climate  is  delightful,  the  mercury  seldom  rising 
above  eighty-five  degrees  in  the  shade,  nor  sinking  below 
forty.  The  number  of  the  inhabitants  at  present  is 
about  ten  thousand,  four  hundred  of  whom  are  foreigners. 
Here  are  EngHsh,  French,  Americans,  Chinese,  Africans, 
&c. ;  the  most  of  the  foreigners,  however,  are  Americans. 
Some  of  them  have  large  mercantile  establishments,  and 
are  extensively  engaged  in  the  sugar  business.  The 
private  dwellings  of  some  of  the  citizens,  both  native 
and  foreign,  are  well  built,  and  richly  furnished.  The 
coral  rock,  which  here  abounds,  is  becoming  extensively 
used  for  building,  and  makes  an  excellent  material  for 
that  purpose.  The  buildings  of  the  missionaries  are 
principally  of  coral,  well  made,  commodiously  situated, 
and  suitably  furnished. 

The  next  Sabbath  after  landing,  we  attended  the 
native  church  in  which  the  Rev.  H.  Bingham  officiates, 
and,  to  our  astonishment,  found  collected  about  two 
thousand  Hawaiians,  to  hear  the  word  of  the  Lord. 
These  were,  nearly  all  of  them,  decently  clad;  a  few, 
however,  were  almost  entirely  naked,  but  they  all  be- 
haved with  becoming  propriety,  and  the  most  strict 
attention  was  paid  to  the  word  dispensed.  The  preacher 
addressed  them  in  the  native  language.  The  meeting 
house  was  built  after  the  native  style,  being  thatched 
with  grass  from  the  bottom  to  the  top.  The  house, 
however,  is  getting  out  of  repair,  and  another  is  being 
erected  of  coral,  near  this,  which  will  seat,  on  the 
ground  floor,  when  completed,  three  thousand  persons. 

Besides  this,  there  is  another  native  church  in  the 
city,  of  which  the  Rev.  Lowell  Smith  is  pastor.  This 
has  been  built  but  two  years,  and  the  congregation  num- 
bers from  twenty  to  twenty-five  hundred. 

There  is  also  a  Bethel  chapel,  commodiously  situated, 
which  was  erected  by  the  Seaman's  Friend  Society,  and 
is  under  the  pastoral  care  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Diell,  who 
was  absent  from   his  charge  on  account  of  ill   health. 


80  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON* 

This  was  occupied  every  Sabbath  by  the  Methodist 
missionaries  during  their  continuance  on  the  island. 

Through  the  influence  of  Mr.  Brinsmade,  we  were 
all  fa.vored  with  an  introduction  to  the  royal  family. 
One  hour  previous  to  the  time  appointed  for  our  inter- 
view, we  collected  at  the  American  Consulate,  which  is 
situated  about  one  half  mile  from  the  king's  house,  and, 
at  the  time  specified,  marched  down  through  the  city 
towards  the  fort,  where  we  were  met  by  a  soldier,  who 
conducted  us  to  the  audience  chamber.  We  were  intro- 
duced into  a  room  of  some  twenty  feet  square,  spread 
with  Chinese  carpeting,  and  well  furnished  with  tables, 
chairs,  sofas,  &c.,  for  the  accommodation  of  visitors. 
The  king  and  his  suite  were  not  present  when  we 
entered,  but  being  informed  of  our  arrival,  the  former 
soon  made  his  appearance,  attended  by  the  governor  of 
Oahu,  and  a  very  large  and  dignified  woman  who  had 
been  the  wife  of  two  kings,  and  who  then  officiated  as 
his  majesty's  prime  minister,  and  her  little  son,  of  some 
eight  years  of  age,  who  was  heir  apparent  to  the  throne. 
They  received  us  with  much  grace  and  dignity,  and 
bidding  us  welcome  to  their  shores,  assured  us  of  their 
friendship.  The  object  of  our  expedition  being  explained 
by  the  consul,  and  interpreted  to  the  king  by  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Richards,  both  the  king  and  his  premier  expressed 
their  astonishment  and  admiration,  and  said  that  they 
ardently  desired  that  we  might  be  prospered  in  our 
enterprise.  They  pronounced  our  cause  "good,"  and 
proffered  their  hospitalities  while  we  were  with  them, 
and  their  continued  aid  in  the  prosecution  of  our  work. 

Our  superintendent,  the  Rev.  Jason  Lee,  addressed 
his  majesty  through  the  interpreter,  relative  to  our  mis- 
sion in  Oregon,  and  proposed  an  exchange  of  the  produce 
of  that  country,  consisting  of  flour,  fish,  beef,  &c.,  for  the 
products  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  consisting  of  sugar, 
molasses,  coffee,  indigo,  &c.,  to  which  the  king  seemed 
heartily  to  concur,  and  said  that  he  was  very  much 
pleased  with  the  idea.  This  conversation  being  closed, 
the  consul  gave  signs  that  it  was  time  to  retire,  and 
accordingly  we  all  arose,  and  passing  round  the  room, 


VOYAGE    TO    ORiEGON.  8l 

one  after  another,  shook  hands  with  the  king,  his  min- 
ister and  her  son,  and  departed,  highly  gratified  with 
our  interview  with  the  royal  family  of  the  Hawaiian 
nation.  Here  were  displayed  none  of  the  pomp  and 
trappings  of  royalty,  none  of  the  parade  and  ceremony 
usually  exhibited  in  the  courts  of  kings.  But  every 
thing,  the  apartments,  furniture,  and  apparel  of  the 
royal  family,  partook  of  that  neatness  and  simplicity 
worthy  the  supreme  head  of  an  infant  and  dependent 
nation.  The  king  was  dressed  in  blue  broadcloth,  made 
up  in  the  English  style,  with  epaulettes  on  his  shoulders 
and  a  miniature  crown  on  the  lapel  of  his  coat.  He  is 
distinguished  by  the  title  of  Kamehameha  the  Third. 

On  Monday,  the  19th,  the  twentieth  anniversary  of 
the  landing  of  the  first  missionaries  on  the  island  of 
Oahu,  was  celebrated  at  the  house  of  Rev.  H.  Bingham, 
who  was  one  of  the  pioneers  in  the  business  of  evange- 
lizing these  islands  of  the  ocean.  The  season  was 
rendered  interesting  by  many  hallowing  associations. 
A  short  history  of  the  Sandwich  Island  mission  was 
given  by  Mr.  Bingham,  and,  in  view  of  the  astonishing 
results  of  missionary  labor,  as  seen  in  the  elevation  of 
the  Hawaiian  nation,  from  the  deepest  degradation  of 
heathenism,  to  the  enjoyment  of  the  blessings  of  Chris- 
tianity and  civilization,  surely  we  had  reason  to  exclaim, 
in  the  language  of  Moses,  "  What  hath  God  wrought ! " 

On  Thursday,  the  22d,  we  visited  what  is  called,  in 
the  language  of  the  country,  the  Para,  about  eight  miles 
east  of  Honolulu.  We  were  accompanied  by  the  consul. 
Captain  Carter,  Captain  Grimes,  Dr.  Judd  and  lady,  and 
Mrs.  Hooper.  At  half  past  nine  we  had  all  mounted 
our  horses,  which  had  been  provided  for  our  use,  and, 
led  by  the  consul,  proceeded  out  of  the  city,  like  a  troop 
of  cavalry,  on  the  round  gallop, ;  and  taking  a  winding 
path,  we  soon  found  ourselves  on  a  contracted  plain, 
with  huge  mountains  on  our  right  and  left,  rising  some 
thousands  of  feet  high,  their  lofty  heads  being  orna- 
mented with  caps  of  fleecy  clouds. 

Presently  we  entered  a  dark  thicket,  and  found  the 
path  so  narrow  and  difficult,   that  it  was  impossible  to 
4 


Sf  Voyage  to  oregoN. 

proceed  but  by  single  file,  and  at  a  very  slow  pace. 
After  descending  and  ascending  a  number  of  almost 
perpendicular  banks,  where  some  of  the  ladies  found  it 
very  difficult  to  keep  to  their  saddles,  and  fording  a 
small  rivulet  which  dashed  through  the  thicket,  we  came 
into  a  small  opening,  overgrown  with  grass,  and  within 
a  few  rods  of  the  Para.  Here  we  dismounted,  and 
leaving  our  horses  in  the  care  of  some  Kanakas,  who 
had  placed  themselves  here  for  that  pur}:)Ose,  proceeded 
on  foot  to  view  the  object  of  our  curiosity.  Soon  we 
found  ourselves  on  the  brink  of  a  frightful  precipice 
several  hundred  feet  high,  and  almost  perpendicular, 
down  which  there  are  steps  cut  in  the  rock  to  enable 
persons  to  ascend  and  descend  in  safety.  This  is  the 
only  place  where  it  is  possible  for  persons  to  pass  from 
one  side  of  the  island  to  the  other  without  making  the 
circuit  of  the  shore,  and  this  pass  has  been  always  con- 
sidered remarkably  difficult  and  dangerous.  But  in  1837, 
Mr.  Alanson  Beers,  a  blacksmith,  who  accompanied  one 
of  the  former  expeditions  to  Oregon,  made  an  important 
improvement  in  this  pass,  by  fixing  firm  into  the  rock,  a 
railing  of  iron  for  some  distance  down  the  steepest  part 
of  the  descent.  This  Para  is  six  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  ocean,  descending  to  the  north-east  abruptly 
until  you  arrive  at  a  plain,  which  extends  about  three 
miles  to  the  shore,  and  which  supports  a  population  of 
more  than  five  thousand  people.  The  appearance  of  this 
plain  from  the  top  of  the  Para,  dotted  with  the  adobe- 
walled  cottages  of  the  islanders,  and  near  the  centre  of 
w^hich  was  pointed  out  the  dwelling  of  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Parker,  and  the  church  where  listening  hundreds  are 
taught  the  way  to  heaven,  is  truly  delightful  ;  and,  with 
the  grandeur  of  the  mountain  and  ocean  scenery,  is  a 
full  compensation  for  the  labor  and  difficulty  of  visiting 
the  place. 

This  Para  is  noted,  not  only  for  the  subhme  natural 
scenery  by  which  it  is  surrounded,  but  also  for  its  inte- 
resting historical  associations.  Here  terminated  one  of 
the  bloodiest  wars  that  ever  desolated  these  islands. 

Having  satisfied  our  curiosity,    we  remounted,   rode 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  83 

over  the  battle  ground,  stopped  to  take  a  view  of  a 
beautiful  cataract,  and  returned  to  a  house  owned  by 
the  consul,  and  situated  about  two  miles  out  of  the  city, 
where  we  sat  down  to  a  sumptuous  repast.  Here  we 
spent  a  social  hour,  until  the  heat  of  the  day  had  passed, 
and  then,  taking  to  our  horses,  galloped  back  to  the  city, 
well  pleased  with  our  excursion. 

On  Saturday,  the  25th,  rode  up  to  Waiakiki,  about 
three  miles,  where  there  is  a  beautiful  cocoanut  grove; 
from  thence  to  the  valley  of  Manoah,  by  way  of  the 
Chinese  tombs,  passing  the  country  residence  of  the 
Rev.  H.  Bingham.  This  valley  is  exceedingly  fertile, 
and  much  frequented  by  visitors,  on  account  of  its  de- 
lightful mountain  scenery.  In  this  valley  is  situated  the 
old  palace,  the  residence  of  some  of  the  former  kings. 
It  is  a  snipJl  thatched  cottage,  surrounded  by  a  dense 
grove  of  fruit  trees,  resembling  in  appearance  the  apple 
tree.  The  building  is  in  a  very  dilapidated  condition, 
and  constitutes  the  habitation  of  bats,  mice,  and  other 
vermin.  On  returning  to  the  city,  we  were  informed 
that  the  vessel  would  leave  the  harbor  of  Honolulu  for 
her  destination  on  the  morning  of  the  28th.  This  gave 
us  but  little  time  to  extend  our  observations  ;  but  from 
the  few  we  were  able  to  take,  we  were  favorably  im- 
pressed with  regard  to  the  importance  of  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  Doubtless  the  prosperity  of  these  islands  has 
depended,  and  still  depends,  mainly  upon  the  whale  ships 
that  annually  flock  to  their  ports. 

The  people  of  the  islands,  both  native  and  foreign,  had 
not  recovered  from  a  feverish  excitement,  into  which  they 
had  recently  been  thrown  by  the  belligerent  attitude  in 
which  a  French  man  of  war  presented  itself  before 
Honolulu.  The  principal  offences  against  France,  of 
which  the  Frenchman  complained,  were,  first,  that  the 
Hawaiians  had  refused  to  admit  French  Roman  Catholic 
missionaries  to  land  on  the  islands,  when  Protestant 
missionaries  had  always  been  allowed  that  privilege  ; 
and,  second,  that  the  Hawaiian  government  had  passed 
a  law  prohibiting  the  introduction  of  French  brandy. 
For   these   crimes,   France   resolved  to   call  the   wicked 


84  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

Hawaiians  to  an  account ;  and,  consequently,  so  soon  as 
the  frigate  arrived,  which  had  been  sent  to  compel 
the  Hawaiians  to  submission,  the  French  commander. 
Captain  La  Place,  in  the  most  menacing  form,  sent  the 
king  word  that  he  had  a  certain  number  of  hours  to 
select  between  two  alternatives.  First,  Roman  Catholic 
missionaries  must  be  admitted  without  restraint;  the 
landing  of  French  brandy  in  any  quantities  must  be 
allowed  ;  and  the  Hawaiian  government  must  pay  to 
the  French  an  indemnity  of  twenty  thousand  dollars  ; 
or,  second,  the  favorite  town  of  the  islanders  must  suffer 
all  the  horrors  of  a  bombardment,  with  the  prospect  of 
an  entire  subjugation  to  the  French.  For  awhile  the 
king  hesitated  whether  to  be  buried  amidst  the  ruins  of 
his  country,  or  submit  to  the  unjust  and  arrogant  claims 
of  the  French,  but,  through  the  influence  of  his  counsel- 
ors, finally  preferred  the  latter  alternative. 

The  name  of  the  frigate  was  the  Artimese,  and  she 
was  commanded  by  Captain  La  Place.  This  unhappy 
interview  betwixt  the  French  and  Hawaiians  left  the 
impression  on  the  minds  of  the  citizens  of  Honolulu,  both 
native  and  foreign,  that  France  will  take  the  first  rea- 
sonable opportunity,  to  reduce  the  islands  to  subjection. 


CHAPTER  V. 


Journal  continued  —  Departure  from  Honolulu  —  Slow  progress  —  Fresh  breeze  — 
Coast  of  Oregon  —  Old  pilot  —  Captain  delivers  up  the  vessel  —  Crossing  the 
fearful  bar  —  Deep  anxiety  —  Cast  anchor  in  Baker's  Bay  —  Rev.  Daniel  Lee  — 
Chenook  Indians  —  Clatsops  —  Ascend  the  river  —  Fort  George  —  Run  aground  — 
Difficulty  of  ascending  —  Arrival  at  Vancouver  —  Meeting  called  —  Missionaries 
receive  their  appointments  —  Sent  off  to  their  stations  —  First  encampment  in 
Oregon  —  Ascending  the  Wallamette  in  canoes  —  Turn  Water  —  Portage  —  Cham- 
poeg  —  Horseback  ride  —  Arrival  at  the  Mission  Station. 

According  to  arrangements,  on  Tuesday  morning, 
the  28th  of  April,  at  nine  o'clock,  we  were  all  assembled 
at  the  United  States  Consulate,  with  many  of  our  newly 
made  friends  of  Oahu,  who  had  endeared  themselves  to 
us  by  their  unwearied  kindness  and  hospitality,  awaiting 
the  preparation  of  boats  to  convey  us  to  the  ship.  Soon 
all  was  in  readiness,  and  taking  an  affectionate  leave  of 
our  attendants,  we  were  quickly  on  board  the  Lausanne. 
The  winds  were  favorable,  the  sails  were  unfurled  to  the 
breeze,  and  we  moved  slowly  out  of  the  harbor  through 
a  winding  channel,  which  the  God  of  nature  has  formed 
through  the  mighty  reef  of  coral  nearly  encircling  the 
island. 

For  several  days  after  leaving  Oahu,  we  were  obliged 
to  run  close  upon  the  wind,  and,  consequently,  made  but 
slow  progress.  Our  course  was  north-east  from  the 
islands  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river,  and  conse- 
quently the  north-east  trade  was  a  head  wind.  So  soon, 
however,  as  we  reached  the  thirtieth  degree  of  north 
latitude,  a  fresh  breeze  from  the  west  wafted  us  on  at 
the  rate  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  miles 
per  day. 

In  addition  to  the  usual  subjects  of  interest  at  sea, 
consisting  of  whales,  sharks,   porpoises,  dolphins,   alba- 


86  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

troses,  &c.,  the  company  were  entertained,  for  a  succes- 
sion of  evenings,  by  a  course  of  lectures,  delivered  by 
the  Rev.  Jason  Lee,  on  the  subject  of  the  Oregon  mis- 
sion, embracing  its  first  establishment,  and  the  proper 
course  to  be  pursued  to  advance  its  future  prosperity. 
While  thus  employed,  the  winds  of  heaven  were  propi- 
tious, and  we  were  rapidly  approaching  the  coast  of 
Oregon.  At  ten  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  21st  of 
May,  the  western  coast  of  North  America,  which  is 
washed  by  the  great  Pacific  ocean,  that  land  towards 
which  we  had  been  directing  our  course  for  upwards  of 
seven  months,  presented  itself  before  us.  Cape  Disap- 
pointment appeared  on  our  leeward  quarter,  and  Point 
Adams  on  our  bow.  Considering  the  direction  of  the 
wind,  the  vessel  could  not  have  been  placed  more  favor- 
ably for  entering  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river. 

Wind  and  tide  both  favoring  us,  preparations  were 
immediately  made  for  crossing  the  dreaded  bar  of  the 
Columbia.  Captain  Spaulding  found  an  old  sailor  at 
Oahu,  who  had  spent  some  time  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia,  a  number  of  years  before,  and  who  said  he 
was  well  acquainted  with  the  channel  across  the  bar. 
This  man  the  captain  had  taken  the  precaution  to  bring 
with  him,  to  act  as  pilot  on  entering  the  river  ;  and, 
accordingly,  on  approaching  land,  the  captain  surren- 
dered the  vessel  into  the  hands  of  the  old  pilot.  The 
latter  went  aloft,  and  issued  his  orders  from  the  fore  top 
mast  head.  All  was  anxiety  on  ship  board,  as  it  was 
cried  by  the  man  with  the  sounding  line,  "five  fathoms 
and  a  half,"  for  we  then  knew  that  we  were  passing  over 
the  fearful  bar,  and  that  very  soon  we  should  experience 
..he  fate  of  a  number  of  vessels,  which,  years  before,  had 
pursued  the  same  track  but  to  rush  to  inevitable  destruc- 
tion, or,  be  quietly  moored  in  the  placid  waters  of  the 
bay,  behind  the  projecting  cape.  Soon  the  water  deep- 
ened to  seven  and  nine  fathoms,  and  the  captain  observed, 
*'  We  have  reason  to  congratulate  ourselves  on  having 
crossed  the  bar  of  the  Columbia  in  safety,  and  are  now 
steering  our  course  for  Baker's  Bay."  And  surely  all 
felt  heartily  to  acquiesce  in  the  sentiment,  as  we  slowly 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON,  87 

passed  around  the  point  of  Cape  Disappointment,  and 
dropped  our  anchor  on  American  ground. 

The  EngHsh  barque  Vancouver,  lay  at  anchor  in  the 
bay,  waiting  for  a  fair  wind  to  put  out  to  sea.  So  soon 
as  we  anchored^  Captain  Duncan,  from  the  barque,  came 
on  board,  and  informed  us  that  we  liad  made  at  least 
one  "  hair  breadth  escape,"  as  we  came  within  a  cable's 
length  of  running  on  to  a  sand  bank,  where  the  William 
and  Ann  were  wrecked  a  few  years  before.  He  also 
informed  us  that  he  had  just  come  down  the  river  from 
Fort  Vancouver;  that  Rev.  Daniel  Lee,  and  Mr.  W.  H. 
Wilson,  who  were  members  of  the  Oregon  mission, 
were  at  the  fort  when  he  left,  and  that  the  people  gene- 
rally were  anxiously  awaiting  our  arrival.  A  few  hours 
after  we  came  to  anchor,  an  Indian  canoe  appeared, 
coming  down  the  river,  with  a  number  of  persons  in  it, 
and  seemed  to  be  directing  its  course  towards  us.  While 
several  miles  off  we  could  see,  through  the  telescope, 
that  there  was  one  white  man,  with  about  a  dozen  In- 
dians, in  the  canoe,  and  when  they  approached  so  near 
as  to  determine  who  we  were,  they  set  up  a  loud  shout 
for  joy  at  our  arrival.  Soon  they  came  along  side,  and 
to  our  great  satisfaction,  we  were  saluted  by  the  Rev. 
Daniel  Lee,  who  had  left  his  station  at  the  Dalls,  and 
come  down  the  river  to  visit  the  Chenooks,  and  preach 
to  them.  Though  thirty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  yet  he  discovered  our  sail,  as  we  passed  over  the 
bar,  and,  supposing  us  to  be  the  reinforcement  expected, 
he  resolved  to  hasten  down  and  ascertain  the  fact. 

Rev.  Daniel  Lee  is  a  nephew  of  the  Rev.  Jason  Lee. 
They  had  performed  a  perilous  journey  together  across 
the  Rocky  mountains;  had  endured  together  the  trials 
of  missionary  life  in  Oregon  ;  and  as  they  had  been 
separated  for  more  than  two  years,  one  remaining  in 
Oregon,  and  the  other  recrossing  the  Rocky  mountains, 
and  then  doubhng  Cape  Horn,  the  circumstances  of  their 
meeting  were  of  no  ordinary  interest.  The  sensations 
realized  cannot  well  be  described.  The  uncle  and 
nephew  embraced  each  other,  and  wept.  Their  tears 
were  tears  of  joy,  mingled  with  grief — joy,  that  after 


68  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON 

SO  long  a  separation,  and  the  endurance  of  so  many 
hardships,  they  enjoyed  the  privilege  of  seeing  each 
other's  face— joy^  that  a  kind  and  merciful  Providence 
had  preserved  us  during  our  long  and  tedious  voyage, 
and  had  brought  us  in  safety  to  this  distant  shore — joy, 
that  the  Lord  had  poured  out  His  spirit  in  Oregon,  and 
that  many  of  the  Indians  had  been  converted  :  but  grief, 
that  since  their  separation  in  Oregon,  some  of  the  pio- 
neers of  the  cross  in  this  land  of  darkness,  had  been  taken 
from  the  scene  of  their  labors  and  usefulness;  a  grief 
mitigated  by  the  consideration,  that  they  died  as  the 
christian  dies,  happy  and  triumphant. 

Towards  evening  a  number  of  Indians  of  the  Chenook 
tribe  came  on  board,  among  v^hom  were  some  of  the 
nobility,  one  of  the  principal  chiefs,  whose  name  was 
Chenamus,  and  his  wife,  whom  they  called  the  queen, 
being  of  the  number.  Most  of  them  were  very  small 
in  size,  and  very  poorly  clad,  some  of  them  not  having 
sufficient  clothing  to  cover  their  nakedness.  The  chief 
had  notliing  on  but  a  blanket,  which  he  wrapped  around 
him,  but  the  queen  had  on  a  calico  dress,  a  neckerchief, 
and  a  red  woolen  shawl.  Soon  they  were  reinforced 
by  the  arrival  of  a  band  of  Indians  from  the  south  side 
of  the  river,  called  the  Clatsops,  who  were  very  savage 
in  their  appearance,  some  of  them  being  painted  in  the 
most  hideous  manner.  They  collected  together  on  the 
fore  part  of  the  deck,  and  commenced  singing  and 
dancing  in  the  most  fantastic  style.  Four  persons  en- 
gaged in  the  dance,  and  as  one  got  weary  and  retired, 
another  would  step  in  and  carry  it  on.  They  appeared 
to  enjoy  it  exceedingly,  and  doubtless  supposed  that  they 
were  affording  us  the  highest  gratification  in  celebrating 
our  arrival  among  them.  Many  of  them  continued  on 
board  during  the  night,  and  though  it  was  very  cold, 
some  slept  in  their  open  canoes  which  lay  along  side  the 
vessel,  with  nothing  around  them.  Their  appearance, 
as  they  lay  shivering  in  the  cold,  was  truly  deplorable. 
These,  we  learned,  were  slaves,  and  were  not  allowed 
by  their  masters  to  come  on  the  deck.  Surely,  thought 
we,  if  any  human  beings  in  the  world  need  the  sympa- 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  89 

thies  of  their  fellow  men,  we  have  found  them  on 
entering  the  territory  of  Oregon. 

The  day  after  we  crossed  the  bar,  we  were  obliged 
to  continue  at  anchor  in  Baker's  Bay,  on  account  of  a 
severe  storm  from  the  south-east,  which  prevented  our 
sailing  up  the  river;  but  on  the  morning  of  the  23d,  the 
wind  became  fair,  and  we  prepared  to  ascend  the 
majestic  Columbia.  A  gentleman  by  the  name  of  Bir- 
ney,  residing  at  Fort  George,  and  belonging  to  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  came  on  board,  and  volunteered 
his  services  as  pilot  from  Baker's  Bay,  to  the  place  of 
his  residence,  the  distance  of  thirteen  miles.  Weighing 
anchor,  we  were  conducted  along  a  winding  channel 
quite  across  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  passed  within  a 
short  distance  of  Point  Adams,  where  the  principal 
village  of  the  Clatsops  is  situated.  Crossing  the  mouth 
of  a  bay  lying  back  of  Point  Adams,  called  Young's 
Bay,  we  came  to  anchor  for  the  night,  within  a  stone's 
cast  of  Fort  George,  otherwise  known  as  the  "  far  famed 
Astoria,  the  New  York  of  the  Pacific  ocean." 

Fort  George  consists  of  three  small  block-houses,  one 
of  which  is  occupied  by  Mr.  Birney  and  family,  and  the 
others  for  purposes  of  trading.  Here  we  went  ashore, 
and  after  examining  the  site  of  old  Astoria,  built  a  fire 
by  the  side  of  a  cold  spring,  and  cooked  and  enjoyed  our 
supper  again  on  "  terra  jirma^^  where  our  table  would 
stand  still.  Weighed  anchor  on  the  morning  of  the 
25th,  and  before  a  fine  breeze,  proceeded  about  one  mile 
and  a  half,  and  run  the  ship  aground.  All  hands  spent 
most  of  the  day  in  endeavoring  to  work  off  the  vessel, 
but  could  not  succeed.  The  next  morning  we  were 
favored  with  a  high  tide,  and  succeeded  in  clearing  the 
bar,  but  had  not  run  but  a  short  distance  before  we 
struck  another  bar  with  considerable  violence,  and,  at 
first,  feared  that  if  we  ever  got  clear  of  it,  it  would  be 
with  great  difficulty;  but  the  still  swelling  tide  of  the 
next  morning,  again  floated  us,  and  sailing  a  short  dis- 
tance, again  we  ran  aground,  and  were  detained  another 
day.  We  concluded  that,  either  the  navigation  of  the 
Columbia  for  vessels  as  large  as  ours,  was  exceedingly 
4* 


0||  VOVAGE    TO    OREGON. 

difficult,  or  our  pilot  was  ignorant  of  the  channel.  How- 
ever, we  succeeded,  after  running  aground  several  more 
times,  in  reaching  that  point  of  land  on  which  Fort 
Vancouver  is  situated,  to  which  we  had  been  looking 
forward  as  the  termination  of  our  voyage  to  Oregon, 
and  where,  by  the  good  providence  of  God,  we  were 
permitted  to  cast  anchor  the  first  day  of  June,  1840. 

Dr.  John  McLaughlin,  the  superintendent  of  the 
affairs  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  though  a  Catholic 
himself,  received  us  with  much  cordiaUty,  and  extended 
to  us  the  hospitalities  of  the  place,  so  long  as  we  should 
find  it  convenient  to  remain. 

Vancouver  is  the  emporium  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  in  Oregon.  This  is  the  general  depot  for  all 
the  goods  brought  to  the  country,  and  also  for  the  furs 
collected,  until  they  are  shipped  for  England. 

Here  we  remained  a  number  of  days,  receiving  and 
storing  our  goods  ;  but  on  the  13th  of  June,  a  meeting 
of  the  members  of  the  mission  was  called,  by  Rev.  Jason 
Lee,  to  consult  in  relation  to  fixing  the  appointments  of 
the  newly  arrived  missionaries.  These  took  place  as 
follows  :  J.  P.  Richmond  at  Fort  Nez  Qualy,  on  Puget's 
Sound  ;  J.  H.  Fi'ost  at  Clatsop,  on  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  ;  W.  W.  Kone  and  G.  Hines  on  the  Umpqua 
river,  and  A.  F.  Waller  was  left  without  an  appointment 
for  the  purpose  of  assisting  in  the  erection  of  mills  on 
the  Wallamette  river.  The  lay  members  of  the  reinforce- 
ment were  principally  located  in  the  Wallamette  settle- 
ment, that  being  the  place  where  the  main  business 
operations  were  carried  on.  There  being  a  physician  in 
the  Wallamette  settlement.  Dr.  J.  L.  Babcock  was  ap- 
pointed at  the  Dalls,  also  H.  B.  Brewer  as  a  farmer. 

All  the  missionaries  were  immediately  initiated  into 
the  Oregon  mode  of  traveling,  in  getting  from  Vancouver 
to  their  respective  appointments.  Canoes  were  provided 
for  us,  and  we  all  scattered  away ;  some  up  the  Columbia, 
some  down  ;  some  up  the  Cowihtz,  and  some  up  the 
Wallamette. 

It  was  in  the  evening  of  the  14th  day  of  June,  that 
Rev.  A.  F.  Waller,  Rev.  W,  W.  Kone,  myself,  and  our 


VOYAGE    TO    OREGON.  ^j 

families,  found  ourselves  floating  on  the  surface  of  the 
great  Columbia,  in  two  small  canoes,  on  our  way  up  to 
the  mission  station  in  the  Wallamette  settlement,  having 
taken  nothing  with  us  but  blankets,  and  provisions  to 
make  us  comfortable  on  our  journey.  It  was  in  the 
season  of  high  water,  and  the  bottom  lands,  along  the 
river,  were  all  overflown.  Conducted  by  our  pilots,  we 
crossed  the  main  channel  of  the  Columbia  to  the  south 
side  ;  and  running  our  canoes  in  among  the  cottonwood 
timber,  we  crossed  a  point  of  land  which  lies  fifteen  or 
twenty  feet  above  low  water  mark,  but  which  was  then 
several  feet  under  water,  and  coming  to  a  kind  of  pro- 
montory covered  with  a  dense  forest  of  fir,  we  ran 
ashore  and  made  our  first  encampment  in  Oregon.  By 
the  aid  of  flint,  steel,  and  powder,  we  soon  had  the  forest 
illuminated  ;  then  the  women  prepared  supper  of  fried 
meat  and  boiled  potatoes,  bread,  butter  and  tea,  and 
spread  it  out  upon  the  ground,  where  all  partook  of  it 
with  great  relish.  Next  our  bedding  was  prepared,  and 
after  recruiting  our  fire,  we  prepared  to  sleep.  The 
roar  of  the  wnid  through  the  thick  branches  of  the  fir 
trees,  whose  tall  tops  were  waving  gracefully  over  our 
heads,  the  hoot  of  the  large  owl,  and  the  howling  of  the 
wolf,  frequently  broke  in  upon  our  slumbers,  but  the 
morning  found  us  unharmed.  In  preparing  to  leave 
camp,  the  business  of  the  morning  afforded  each  of  us 
considerable  amusement  by  our  awkwardness,  arising 
from  unacquaintance  with  this  manner  of  hving;  but 
we  concluded  that  we  should  soon  become  initiated,  and 
make  very  good  soldiers. 

Taking  to  our  canoes  at  six  o'clock,  on  the  15th,  we 
proceeded  a  mile,  and  found  ourselves  in  the  Wallamette 
river,  having  saved  a  few  miles  of  rowing,  by  crossing 
the  point.  Found  the  scenery  along  the  river  exceed- 
ingly wild  as  we  ascended,  the  shores  rocky,  and  lined 
with  dense  forests  of  fir,  and  but  Httle  land  adapted  to 
cultivation.  At  one  o'clock  we  arrived  at  the  Wallamette 
Falls,  called  by  the  Indians  Turn  Water.  Here  we  found 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  of  the  most  filthy  and  de- 
graded looking  beings  in  human  shape,  that  our  eyes 
ever  beheld.     Surely,  thought    we,   it   will   require  the 


92  VOYAGE    TO    OREGON. 

labor  of  many  years  to  elevate  these  Indians  from  the 
depth  of  their  pollution  into  a  civilized  and  christian 
people.  The  falls  are  about  thirty  feet  perpendicular, 
beautiful  indeed,  affording  almost  unlimited  hydraulic 
privileges,  yet  the  Indians  held  the  place  in  unmolested 
control.  The  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  however,  had 
built  a  small  block-house  on  the  left  bank,  as  we  ascend 
the  river,  for  their  accommodation,  in  passing  up  and 
down.  Here  we  were  obliged  to  make  a  portage  of 
half  a  mile,  which  occupied  us  till  nearly  night ;  and  we 
found  it  exceedingly  fatiguing  to  carry  all  our  things 
over  the  rocks,  for  half  a  mile,  on  our  backs.  We  had 
accomplished  it,  however,  at  five  oclock,  and  proceeding 
up  four  miles  farther,  we  made  our  second  encampment 
on  Rock  Island,  having  traveled  but  twenty-five  miles 
since  morning.  The  weather  being  fine,  we  enjoyed 
another  comfortable  night,  and  the  following  day,  at  one 
o'clock,  p.  M.,  arrived  at  Champoeg,  which  is  the  lower 
part  of  the  settlement  on  the  Wallamette  river.  The 
mission  station  was  sixteen  miles  above,  and,  according 
to  arrangement,  horses  were  sent  down  to  meet  us. 
They  arrived  at  three  o'clock,  and  at  four  all  were 
mounted,  several  of  us  taking  children  on  before  us,  and 
the  cavalcade  started  off  upon  a  gallop  over  the  plains. 
As  we  were  well  mounted,  Mrs.  Hines  and  myself  took 
the  lead,  and  passing  over  the  most  delightful  country 
that  we  ever  beheld,  two  hours  and  a  half  brought  us 
into  the  midst  of  three  Kttle  log  houses  which  stood  on 
the  banks  of  the  river,  and  known  as  the  principal  station 
of  the  Oregon  mission. 

Here  we  arrived  in  safety  on  the  1 6th  day  of  June, 
J  840,  and  were  cordially  welcomed  by  the  missionaries 
on  the  ground,  and  made  as  comfortable  as  their  circum- 
stances would  admit. 

Remaining  two  days  in  the  family  of  Rev.  David 
Leslie,  I  then  took  possession  of  a  small  room  in  a  house 
about  one  mile  from  the  station,  built  for  a  mission 
hospital,  where  we  again  commenced  keeping  house, 
and  where  I  designed  my  family  to  remain  until  I  had 
performed  an  exploring  tour  through  the  country  of  the 
Umpquas. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Exploring  tour  to  the  Umpqua  —  Preliminaries  —  Departure  —  Delightful  country  — 
Encampment  —  Amusing  incident  —  Fording  river  —  Mountain  La  Beache  — 
Elk  river  —  Umpqua  fort  —  Indian  fight  —  Frenchman  in  charge  —  Meeting  with 
the  Indians  —Old  chief 's  confession  —  Hostile  Indians  —  Danger  of  going  among 
them  —  Resolved  to  go  —  Voyage  to  the  coast  —  Indians  accompany  us  —  Inte- 
resting encampment  —  Indians  on  the  coast  —  Meeting  with  them  —  Speeches 
of  the  chiefs  —  Results  of  the  meeting  —  Talk  to  God  —  Solicitude  of  our  Pro- 
tectress —  Watching  —  Presents  —  Departure  —  Description  of  the  country  — 
Return  to  the  fort  —  Story  of  the  Frenchman's  wife  —  Dangers  we  had  escaped 

—  Perilous  adventures  of  the  mountaineers  —  Tour  continued  —  Mountainous 
country  —  Fording  Elk  river  —  Giant  tree  —  Aromatic  tree  —  Umpqua  Indians  — 
Head  chiefs  —  Shocking  story  —  Burst  of  heathen  passions  —  Difficulty  with 
guide  —  Settled  —  Fear  of  treachery  —  Confirmed  —  Request  of  We-We  —  Re- 
fused —  Warning  —  An  Indian  can  be  honest  —  Unhappy  results  of  not  trusting 
him  —  Night  —  Lost  in  a  forest  —  Sabbath  —  Indians  again  —  Homeward  route 

—  Fine  country  —  Delightful  scenery  —  Home. 

Some  time  in  the  winter  of  1837,  before  Rev.  Mr. 
Lee  left  Oregon  to  return  to  the  United  States  after  a 
reinforcement,  he  visited  the  Umpqua  tribe  of  Indians 
for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  their  number  and  situa- 
tion ;  but  it  being  in  that  season  of  the  year  when  it  is 
next  to  impossible  to  explore  the  country,  in  consequence 
of  the  abundance  of  water  which  every  where  presents 
itself  in  the  way  of  the  traveler,  he  could  not  extend 
his  own  personal  observations  far,  but  was  under  the 
necessity  of  depending  for  information  concerning  the 
objects  of  his  visit,  upon  the  few  Indians  with  whom  he 
came  in  contact  on  his  route,  and  a  Frenchman  who  had 
charge  of  a  trading  post  belonging  to  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  and  situated  on  the  Umpqua  river.  Such  was 
the  information  given  and  the  confidence  reposed  therein, 
that  Mr.  Lee,  before  going  to  the  States,  had  come  to 
the  determination  that,  if  the  mission  was  again  rein- 
forced, he  would  establish  a  station  somewhere  in  the 


94  TOliR    TO    THE    UMPQUA. 

vicinity  of  Umpqua  fort.  Accordingly  Mr.  Kone  and 
myself  were  appointed  to  labor  as  missionaries  among 
the  Umpqua  Indians.  As  Mr.  K.  was  a  millwright  by 
trade,  it  was  intended  by  Mr.  Lee  to  retain  him  for  some 
months  on  the  Wallamette,  to  assist  in  the  erection  of 
the  mission  mills ;  and  that  I  should  proceed  and  explore 
the  country,  select  a  location  for  the  station,  and  prepare 
for  the  removal  of  our  families. 

Hearing  reports  from  that  country  of  a  discouraging 
character,  Mr.  Lee  resolved  to  accompany  me  on  the 
tour,  and  satisfy  himself  with  regard  to  the  propriety  of 
carrying  out  his  original  design. 

It  should  be  understood  that  the  Umpqua  country  lies 
to  the  south  of  the  Columbia  river,  about  two  hundred 
and  twenty-five  miles.  The  river  which  gives  its  name 
to  the  country,  rises  in  that  ridge  of  mountains  which 
divides  the  lower  from  the  upper  country,  and  after 
running  about  two  hundred  miles,  empties  into  the  Pacific 
ocean  near  the  forty-third  parallel  of  north  latitude.  It 
waters  quite  an  extensive  country,  as  yet  to  white  men 
but  little  known.  Having  made  arrangements  for  the 
comfort  and  safety  of  our  families  in  our  absence,  we 
found  ourselves  prepared  to  start  on  our  tour  on  the  18th 
day  of  August,  1840.  Our  party  consisted  of  Rev.  Jason 
Lee,  Dr.  Elijah  White,  myself,  and  an  Indian  guide, 
whom  we  designated  by  the  name  of  "  Captain."  Dr. 
White,  however,  designed  to  accompany  us  no  farther 
than  the  Umpqua  fort,  and  then  return.  Our  mode  of 
traveling,  of  course,  was  on  horseback;  and,  in  addition 
to  our  riding  horses,  we  had  three  for  carrying  our  bag- 
gage, and  four  spare  ones,  that  in  case,  of  the  loss  or 
failure  of  any,  we  might  not  be  left  destitute.  This  is  a 
precaution  indispensably  necessary  to  be  taken  by  all 
who  would  secure  their  ultimate  safety  in  traversing  the 
extended  plains  of  this  wild  country.  As  this  was  the 
first  prairie  expedition  with  which  I  had  ever  been  con- 
nected, it  was  necessary  .for  me,  at  the  outset,  to  learn 
the  peculiarities  of  the  mode  of  traveling;  and,  as  Mr. 
Lee  had  performed  two  journeys  across  the  Rocky 
mountains,  he  was  well  qualified  to  be  my  instructor. 


TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA  95 

Watching  Mr.  Lee  closely  while  he  was  packing  our 
bedding,  provisions  and  cooking  utensils,  on  the  backs  of 
the  horses,  I  soon  observed  that  it  required  considerable 
skill  and  practice  to  wind  the  lash  rope  around  the  pack 
and  the  body  of  the  horse,  so  as  to  secure  the  burden  to  the 
back  of  the  animal  in  case  of  fright,  stumbling,  or  running 
against  any  obstruction,  all  of  which,  in  the  process  of 
binding  the  packs,  it  is  necessary  to  guard  against  with 
the  utmost  precaution.  Mr.  Lee  having  magnified  his 
office  as  our  instructor,  by  packing  the  three  horses 
himself,  we  all  mounted,  and  each  man  with  his  gun 
athwart  of  the  pommel  of  his  saddle,  our  little  cavalcade 
put  off,  on  a  moderate  gallop,  across  the  beautiful  and 
fertile  plain,  lying  in  the  rear  and  south  of  the  mission 
premises.  At  noon  we  arrived  at  a  place  called  by  the 
Indians,  Chemekete,  where  the  Oregon  mission  have 
commenced  erecting  mills,  and  where  it  is  in  contempla- 
tion to  establish  the  Mission  Manual  Labor  School.  This 
place  is  ten  miles  up  the  Wallamette  river  from  the  old 
mission  station,  and  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  locations 
in  the  whole  valley.  The  fertile  plains  surrounding  it, 
the  enchanting  nature  of  its  scenery,  and  the  fine  water 
privilege  afforded  by  the  beautiful  rivulet  that  meanders 
through  it,  render  it  a  place,  of  considerable  future 
importance.  Having  dined  with  the  family  of  W.  W. 
Raymond,  who  is  employed  in  forwarding  the  saw  mill, 
we  proceeded  on  our  course,  being  south,  through  a 
country  beautifully  diversified  with  rising  grounds,  vary- 
ing from  the  gentle  undulation  to  the  majestic  hill,  fertile 
valleys,  variegated  with  here  and  there  a  grove  of  a 
species  of  red  oak,  and  now  and  then  a  stately  fir  which 
had  braved  the  fury  of  a  thousand  storms.  Occasionally 
could  be  seen  the  fallow  deer  and  prairie  wolves,  scam- 
pering in  almost  every  direction,  as  we  passed  along  the 
narrow  Indian  trail,  which,  in  its  serpentine  course,  led 
us  farther  and  farther  from  our  habitation.  At  nightfall 
we  encamped  near  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Walla- 
mette river,  called  "  Santa  Am's  Fork."  This  is  a  fine 
stream  of  water,  being  several  rods  wide,  and  coming 
down  from  the  mountains  of  th©  east,  it  is  said  to  form  a 


96  TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA. 

number  of  beautiful  cascades,  while  the  fine  timber 
adorning  its  banks,  and  the  extended  plains  of  arable  land 
on  each  side,  hold  out  strong  inducements  to  the  emi- 
grant to  erect  his  cabin  upon  its  fertile  shores.  How- 
ever, the  bottom  lands  along  this  river,  though  appearing 
exceedingly  fine  at  this  season  of  the  year,  when  the 
water  is  low,  give  evidence  that,  in  the  winter,  they  are 
often  overflown.  Here  we  found  a  species  of  yellow 
pine,  similar  to  the  Norway  pine,  it  being  the  first  I  had 
seen  in  the  country,  but  we  reposed  for  the  night  under 
the  branches  of  a  majestic  fir,  and  our  trusty  horses 
cropped  the  wild  grass  of  the  prairie  around  us,  while  we 
slept.  Six  O'clock  the  next  morning  found  us  prepared 
to  resume  our  journey,  and  at  twelve  we  had  traveled 
twenty  miles,  when  we  stopped  for  dinner,  on  one  of 
the  numerous  streamlets  which  water  the  Wallamette 
valley. 

Re-packing  our  animals,  after  resting  two  hours,  we 
traveled,  in  the  evening,  about  ten  miles,  and  encamped 
for  the  night  by  the  side  of  a  small  pool  of  water,  in  the 
centre  of  a  large  prairie.  The  country  through  which 
we  passed  during  the  day,  was  exceedingly  flat.  Some 
parts  of  it  were  quite  low,  and  subject  to  inundation 
from  the  rapid  rise  of  the  Wallamette  river.  The  prai- 
ries had  been  all  overrun  with  fire  a  short  time  previous, 
and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  we  could  find  sufficient 
feed  for  our  horses.  However,  around  the  pool  the 
grass  was  so  green  that  the  fire  had  passed  it  by,  and 
this  rendered  it  a  suitable  place  to  spend  the  night, 
particularly  for  our  animals.  There  was  something 
very  peculiar  about  this  pool.  It  embraced  a  superficial 
area  of  some  ten  rods  of  ground,  with  no  visible  inlet  or 
outlet,  and  it  was  several  miles  from  any  other  water, 
though  the  water  in  the  pool  was  nearly  upon  a  level 
with  the  surrounding  land.  It  was  also  Kterally  filled 
with  frogs,  there  being  at  least  five  to  every  square  foot. 

We  spread  our  bed  where  the  grass  was  abundant, 
but  soon  after  lying  down  we  were  disturbed  by  a  some- 
what novel  circumstance.  I  began  to  feel  a  gentle  stir 
directly  under  my  back,  though  for  some  time  I  made 


TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA.  97 

no  mention  of  it,  not  yet  deciding  what  it  might  be. 
But  as  the  effort  beneath  me  continued  as  though  some 
Hving  being  was  thrown  into  convulsions  through  suffo- 
cation, I  at  length  cried  out  that  there  was  some  living 
creature  under  my  blanket.  The  "Captain"  understand- 
ing me,  exclaimed,  "  A  snake  !  a  snake  !"  I  sprang  in- 
stantly to  my  feet,  seized  my  blankets,  and  scattered  my 
bed  around  the  prairie,  and,  to  the  no  small  amusement 
of  our  party,  out  jumped  a  large  bullfrog,  and  made  his 
best  leaps  to  get  back  into  the  pool. 

August  20th.  We  arose  in  the  morning  invigorated  by 
repose,  and  traveling  twenty-five  miles,  at  one  o'clock 
we  arrived  at  the  place  on  the  Wallamette  river  where 
we  designed  to  cross,  our  trail  having  been  on  the  east 
side  of  the  river.  In  approaching  the  stream,  we  found 
the  trail  exceedingly  difficult,  especially  for  our  pack 
horses,  as  it  led  us  through  a  dense  forest  of  cottonwood 
and  swamp  maple,  but  at  length  we  emerged  from  it  in 
safety,  and  found  ourselves  on  the  river's  brink.  Exa- 
mining the  ford,  we  found  the  river  too  deep,  and  the 
current  too  strong,  to  admit  of  our  crossing  our  pack 
horses  in  safety,  and  discovering  an  Indian  below  us,  in 
his  canoe,  we  beckoned  to  him  to  come  up  to  us,  which 
he  accordingly  did.  He  appeared  very  shy  at  first,  as 
he  was  entirely  naked,  not  having  so  much  clothing  on 
as  an  apron  of  fig  leaves,  but  after  a  while  we  induced 
him  to  take  our  things  into  his  canoe,  and  carry  them 
across  the  river.  Dr.  White  accompanied  him,  while 
Mr.  Lee,  myself,  and  the  "  Captain,"  crossed  over  the 
horses.  The  water  was  up  to  the  animals'  backs,  and 
the  current  so  strong  that  we  feared  it  would  bear  us 
down;  but,  with  the  exception  of  getting  thoroughly 
wet,  we  gained  the  opposite  shore  without  difficulty. 
Here  we  took  some  refreshments,  and  then  continued 
our  way  over  a  delightful  plain  fifteen  miles  in  extent, 
and  at  night  stopped  on  the  California  trail,  at  a  place 
which,  by  the  numerous  fires  which  had  been  built 
around,  we  judged  was  often  used  as  an  encampment. 
This  is  the  great  trail  extending  through  from    Upper 


98  TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA 

California  to  the  Columbia  river,  and  passes  through  the 
valley  of  the  Wallamette,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river. 

Friday,  21st.  After  traveling  about  twenty  miles  over 
a  rolling  country,  presenting  almost  every  variety  of 
scenery,  we  halted  for  dinner  on  a  small  stream  called 
"  Bridge  river,"  on  account  of  a  log  bridge  having  been 
thrown  across  it,  by  some  California  party.  This  stream 
runs  in  a  deep  cut,  and,  but  for  the  bridge,  would  have 
been  difficult  to  cross.  In  the  afternoon  we  passed  over 
the  mountain  ''  La  Beache,"  (Elk  mountain,)  which  con- 
sists of  a  vast  assemblage  of  hills  thrown  together  in  wild 
confusion,  and  covered  with  a  heavy  forest  of  fir  and 
cedar  trees.  The  latter  is  the  most  stately  and  majestic 
timber  of  the  kind  I  have  ever  seen.  Some  of  the  trees 
are  from  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  in  diameter,  and  tower- 
ing to  an  incredible  height.  On  beholding  them,  one  is 
reminded  of  the  scripture  account  of  tho  cedars  of 
Lebanon.  It  required  three  hours  to  cross  this  mountain, 
and  as  we  descended  it  to  the  south,  we  found  the  fire 
making  sad  havoc  with  the  fine  timber  with  which  its 
sides  were  adorned.  In  some  places  it  raged  so  hard 
along  the  trail,  that  it  was  quite  difficult  for  us  to  pass; 
but,  urging  our  way  along,  we  arrived  at  sun  down  at 
Elk  river,  and  camped  on  a  beautiful  plain  on  its  south 
bank. 

Saturday,  22d.  Leaving  the  California  trail  we  took  a 
path  that  bore  farther  to  the  west,  which  followed  the 
direction  of  the  Elk  river.  During  the  day  we  passed 
over  an  exceedingly  mountainous  country.  Some  of 
the  hills  were  rocky  and  precipitous,  and  it  was  with 
great  difficulty  that  we  were  able  to  keep  our  balance 
on  the  narrow  path  among  the  rocks,  that,  in  its  zigzag 
course,  marked  our  way  up  and  down  their  almost  per- 
pendicular sides.  Mr.  Lee  remarked  that  in  crossing 
the  Rocky  mountains,  there  was  nothing  that  would 
bear  any  comparison  with  the  difficulty  and  roughness 
of  our  trail  through  the  Umpqua  mountains.  But  urging 
our  way  along,  now  plunging  into  the  deep  ravine,  now 
scaling  the  high  ledge  of  rocks,  now  climbing  the  preci- 


TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA.  Us* 

pitous  mountains,  now  descending  into  the  dark  valley, 
and  fording  Elk  river  over  the  slippery  rocks  not  less 
than  five  times,  at  two  o'clock,  p.  m.,  we  found  ourselves 
on  the  banks  of  the  Umpqua  river,  opposite  of  the  fort. 
We  stripped  our  horses  of  their  packs  and  saddles,  and 
turned  them  loose  to  roam  at  large  on  the  north  side  of 
the  river,  until  we  performed  a  voyage  to  the  coast; 
and,  crossing  over  in  a  canoe,  we  were  kindly  received  at 
the  fort  by  an  old  Frenchman,  having  charge  of  it,  by 
the  name  of  Goniea.  We  were  made  welcome  to  all  the 
comforts  the  place  afforded. 

This  fort,  or  rather  trading  post,  stands  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  Umpqua  river,  on  a  little  plain  comprising 
about  two  hundred  acres  of  land,  thirty  of  which  are 
under  cultivation.  It  is  forty  miles  from  the  Pacific 
ocean,  and  advantageously  situated  for  the  purposes  for 
which  it  was  established,  namely,  the  collection  of  beaver 
and  other  furs  from  the  Indians  along  the  coast  and  in 
the  interior.  The  fort  itself  consists  of  three  or  four 
little  log  huts  built  on  three  sides  of  a  square,  and 
covered  with  cedar  bark.  These  huts  are  stockaded  by 
poles  set  in  the  ground,  and  rising  twelve  feet  high;  and 
at  two  opposite  corners  of  the  enclosure  thus  formed, 
there  are  two  bastions  commanding  all  sides  of  the  fort, 
and  containing  means  for  the  defense  of  the  establish- 
ment against  the  attacks  of  the  Indians  who  are  fre- 
quently quite  troublesome  in  this  region.  Not  long 
since  the  place  was  attacked  by  a  band  of  savages, 
outnumbering  ten  times  the  inmates  of  the  fort,  but  after 
a  long  fight,  in  which  no  one  was  killed,  and  but  two  or 
three  of  the  Indians  were  wounded,  the  latter  were 
compelled  to  retreat. 

The  Frenchman  in  charge,  it  is  said,  belongs  to  a 
wealthy  and  honorable  family  in  Montreal,  and  though 
frequent  efforts  have  been  made  to  reclaim  him  from  his 
wanderings,  and  induce  him  to  return  to  his  family  and 
friends,  yet  all  have  been  unavailing.  Such  is  the  power 
of  habit  with  him  that  he  now  prefers  a  life  but  little  in 
advance  of  the  wretched  savages  that  surround  him,  to 
all  the  elegance  and  refinements  of   the  most  civilized 


100  TOUR    TO   THE    UMPQUA. 

society.  He  lives  with  an  Indian  woman  whom  he  calls 
his  wife,  and  who  belongs  to  a  tribe  that  reside  on  the 
coast,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Umpqua  river. 

Sunday,  23d.  A  good  night's  rest  on  a  bed  of  Macki- 
naw blankets,  and  a  liberal  supply  of  boiled  pork  and 
potatoes,  furnished  by  our  Indian  hostess,  wonderfully 
recruited  us  after  the  fatigues  of  our  journey.  We 
found  no  Indians  around  the  fort  except  a  small  band  of 
twenty-five  Calapooahs  from  the  Wallamette  valley. 
These  we  collected  in  one  of  the  huts  within  the  stock- 
ades, and  Mr.  Lee  addressed  them  in  the  jargon  of  the 
country,  concerning  the  things  which  belong  to  their 
peace,  and  the  chief  interpreted  it  to  his  people.  They 
seemed  to  be  much  interested,  and  were  ready  to  promise 
that  they  would  all  become  good.  The  chief  confessed 
that  his  people  had  formerly  been  guilty  of  adultery,  but 
said  he  had  stopped  all  that  a  year  ago;  that  he  allowed 
himself  to  have  two  wives  still,  but  that  he  meant  to  put 
one  of  them  away  as  soon  as  he  returned.  As  we 
expected  to  pass  through  his  country  on  our  return,  we 
engaged  to  meet  him  and  his  people  on  a  certain  day, 
and  give  them  another  "  talk." 

Monday,  24th.  Dr.  White  and  the  ''Captain"  left  us 
and  returned  to  the  Wallamette,  and  Mr.  Lee  and  myself 
started  in  a  canoe,  to  visit  the  Indians  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Umpqua  river.  We  had  been  informed  by  Mr. 
Goniea  that  there  would  be  great  danger  in  our  going 
among  them  alone,  and,  indeed,  he  appeared  to  stand  in 
the  utmost  fear  of  them.  Of  their  hostility  to  the 
whites,  and  especially  the  Americans,  we  were  ourselves 
aware,  as  they  had  in  more  than  one  instance  attacked 
them,  and  at  one  time  in  particular  they  cut  off*  an  entire 
party  of  fourteen  men  who  were  coming  through  from 
California  to  Oregon,  except  three  persons,  who  fortu- 
nately escaped  to  tell  the  story  of  the  massacre  of  their 
companions.  But  Providence  seemed  to  favor  our  design 
of  going  among  them.  On  Sunday  afternoon,  a  brother 
of  the  Frenchman's  wife,  with  a  small  party  of  Indians 
from  the  coast,  arrived  at  the  fort,  having  come  up  the 
river  in  a  canoe.     After  having  an  interview  with  them 


TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA.  101 

we  proposed  to  the  Frenchman  that  his  wife,  who,  we 
learned,  was  a  relative  of  the  principal  chiefs  of  the 
tribe,  should  take  us  under  her  protection,  and  with  her 
brother  and  his  party,  conduct  us  to  their  people.  To 
this  the  Frenchman  consented,  saying,  "now  the  danger 
is  small,  before  it  was  great."  According  to  arrange- 
ment, at  ten  o'clock,  a.  m.,  we  put  out  with  our  light 
canoe  into  the  rapid  current  of  the  Umpqua.  We  ran  a 
number  of  narrow  shoots  where  the  current  is  at  least 
twelve  knots  an  hour,  and  in  some  instances  shot  past 
the  rocks  which  projected  into  the  stream  within  six 
inches,  with  the  velocity  of  an  arrow.  But  our  Indians 
— seven  in  number — showed  themselves  to  be  on  their 
proper  element  by  the  astonishing  dexterity  with  which 
they  ran  the  dangerous  rapids  with  which  the  river 
abounds.  Fifteen  miles  below  the  fort,  the  river  rushes 
over  a  ledge  of  rocks  in  a  number  of  narrow  channels, 
and  falling  about  twenty-five  feet  in  so  many  rods,  forms 
a  fine  salmon  fishery.  Here  we  found,  crowded  into 
four  small  lodges,  about  one  hundred  Indians,  exceedingly 
squahd  in  their  appearance,  and  subsisting  entirely  on 
fish. 

Our  Indian  protectress,  who  also  officiated  as  inter- 
preter, informed  them  who  we  were,  and  for  what 
purpose  we  had  come  among  them,  with  which  they 
seemed  to  be  highly  pleased,  saying  it  was  good;  and  as 
we  passed  on,  nine  of  them,  five  men  and  four  women, 
jumped  into  a  large  canoe,  for  the  purpose  of  accom- 
panying us  down  the  river. 

Having  thus  increased  our  company  more  than  half, 
we  proceeded  on  our  voyage,  contemplating  the  barba- 
rous appearance  of  both  animate  and  inanimate  nature 
around  us,  until  the  gathering  shadows  reminded  us  that 
night  approached  ;  and  running  our  canoes  in  along  the 
right  hand  shore,  we  at  length  found  a  place  sufficiently 
broad,  from  the  river  to  the  base  of  the  mountain,  to 
admit  of  our  encamping,  and  here  we  pitched  our  tent 
for  the  night.  Our  Indians  soon  struck  up  two  good 
fires,  one  for  themselves  and  one  for  us.  Mr.  Lee  and 
myself  prepared  our  supper,  our  female  friend  providing 


102  TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA, 

US  with  a  choice  piece  of  salmon  which  she  had  broiled, 
and  which,  with  bread,  butter,  and  tea,  constituted  our 
humble  repast.  Never  did  we  partake  of  a  supper  with 
a  better  reHsh.  While  we  were  enjoying  it,  our  neo- 
phytes prepared  supper  for  themselves,  and  it  was  not  a 
little  interesting,  to  one  who  was  not  familiar  v/ith  such 
scenes,  to  see  them  prepare  their  food.  Their  supper 
consisted  of  fresh  salmon,  and  a  species  of  hazel-nut, 
which  is  found  in  the  country  in  great  abundance. 
Having  made  a  suitable  fire,  they  commenced  the  ope- 
ration of  cooking  their  salmon.  This  was  performed  in 
the  following  manner  :  they  all  provided  themselves 
with  sticks  about  three  feet  long,  pointed  at  one  end  and 
split  at  the  other.  They  then  apportioned  the  salmon, 
each  one  taking  a  large  piece,  and  filling  it  with  splinters 
to  prevent  its  falling  to  pieces  when  cooking,  and  which 
they  fastened  with  great  care,  into  the  forked  end  of  the 
stick ;  then  placing  themselves  around  the  fire  so  as  to 
describe  a  circle,  they  stuck  the  pointed  end  of  the  stick 
into  the  ground  a  short  distance  from  the  fire,  inclining 
the  top  towards  the  flames,  so  as  to  bring  the  salmon  in 
contact  with  the  heat,  thus  forming  a  kind  of  pyramid 
of  salmon  over  the  whole  fire.  One  side  being  cooked, 
the  other  was  turned  to  the  heat,  and  speedily  the  whole 
was  prepared  for  eating.  Stones  were  then  provided 
for  the  purpose  of  cracking  nuts,  and  all  being  seated  on 
the  ground,  the  eating  process  commenced.  The  extreme 
novelty  of  their  appearance,  the  nut  cracking,  the  gene- 
ral merriment,  the  apparent  jokes,  ready  repartees,  and 
bursts  of  laughter,  were  sufficient  to  have  excited  the 
risibilities  of  even  a  Roman  CathoHc  priest,  however 
phlegmatic.  And  certainly  a  more  jovial  set  of  fellows 
than  these  sons  of  nature,  I  have  never  seen.  They  are 
as  untamed  as  the  elk  they  chase  over  their  mountains  ; 
and  feasted  upon  their  fish  and  nuts  with  as  much  seem- 
ing satisfaction  to  themselves,  as  the  most  fashionable 
and  refined  party  that  ever  graced  the  gay  saloon  en- 
joyed while  regaling  themselves  from  the  most  costly 
viands. 

Supper   being   over,    we  called    the    attention  of  the 


TOUR    TO    THE    LMPQUA.  103 

Indians,  while  we  engaged  in  our  evening  devotions.  I 
sang  a  hymn,  and  then  we  both  engaged  in  prayer,  the 
Indians  all  kneeling  with  us,  and  evidently  manifesting  a 
pecuHar  interest  in  what  was  passing  before  them.  And, 
thought  I,  why  should  they  not  feel  interested  1  Never 
before  had  the  death-like  silence,  which  reigned  along 
this  valley,  been  broken  by  the  voice  of  prayer  and 
praise.  The  sombre  shades  of  moral  darkness,  which 
had  ever  cast  a  melancholy  gloom  upon  the  people,  had 
never  been  penetrated  by  the  rays  of  gospel  light.  The 
heralds  of  mercy  who  bring  glad  tidings  of  good  things 
to  those  w^ho  wander  upon  the  dark  mountains,  had  never 
before  set  their  feet  on  these  hostile  shores.  And,  while 
the  Indians  surrounding  us  appeared  to  be  sensible  of  the 
nature  and  importance  of  our  visit  among  them,  the 
circumstances  were  such  as  to  create  in  us  feelings  of 
the  greatest  solicitude.  After  our  devotions  were  fin- 
ished, Mr.  Lee  addressed  the  Indians  through  our  inter- 
preter in  relation  to  the  objects  of  our  visit,  and  they 
listened  as  to  a  story  calculated  to  excite  the  utmost 
wonder.  We  all  retired  in  quietness,  rested  in  peace, 
arose  in  safety,  and  proceeding  on  our  way  along  the 
widening  Umpqua  towards  the  great  Pacific  ocean,  ar- 
rived at  noon  among  the  Indians  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river. 

We  found  but  little  land  along  the  river  which  holds 
out  any  inducements  to  emigrants,  the  country  on  both 
sides  as  we  approached  the  coast,  becoming  more  and 
more  rocky  and  mountainous.  Whatever  the  country 
may  be  back  from  the  river,  it  is  certain  that  along  the 
stream  it  can  never  sustain  much  of  a  population.  Hills 
upon  hills,  and  rocks  piled  upon  rocks,  characterize  al- 
most the  whole  distance  from  the  Umpqua  fort  to  the 
Pacific  ocean. 

On  arriving  at  the  coast  we  found  the  Indians  living 
in  three  small  villages,  the  larger  being  on  the  south,  and 
the  other  two  on  the  north  side  of  the  river.  The  whole 
number,  as  near  as  we  could  ascertain,  amounted  to 
about  two  hundred  men,  women,  and  children,  about 
one-third  of  whom  were  absent  in  the  mountains,  for 


104  TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA. 

the  purpose  of  gathering  berries.  It  was  thought  best, 
by  our  female  guajBdian  and  adviser,  to  pitch  our  tent 
some  half  a  mile  distant  from  the  larger  village  on  the 
south  side  of  the  river,  near  which  she  told  us  the  chiefs 
and  their  people  would  meet  us  to  hold  a  "  talk." 

Though  the  news  of  our  arrival  quickly  flew  to  all  the 
lodges,  yet  none  of  the  Indians  came  near  us,  until  we 
sent  them  word  that  we  had  come,  and  desired  to  see 
them  at  our  tent;  then  three  chiefs  and  fifty-five  of  their 
people,  mostly  men,  came  out  to  see  us.  Seating  them- 
selves in  the  sand  in  a  semicircle  in  front  of  the  tent, 
they  informed  us,  through  our  interpreter,  that  they 
were  "  ready  to  hear  what  we  had  to  say."  Mr.  Lee 
then  addressed  them,  describing  the  objects  of  our  visit, 
and  telling  them  whence  we  came;  how  long  it  took  us 
to  perform  our  voyage  from  our  native  land  to  their 
country;  that  we  had  many  friends  at  home  who  desired 
us  not  to  leave  them;  that  a  sense  of  duty  had  brought 
us  to  their  country  to  tell  them  about  Jesus  Christ;  that 
in  coming  to  them,  we  had  been  exposed  to  a  thousand 
dangers,  but  had  been  preserved  in  the  midst  of  them  all 
by  the  "Great  Chief  above;"  that  we  had  heard  much 
about  them,  and  that  we  were  glad  now  to  be  permitted 
to  see  them  for  ourselves,  and  become  acquainted  with 
them.  He  then  inquired  whether  they  approved  of  our 
visit,  and  wdiether  they  desired  to  be  instructed. 

After  a  few  moment's  consultation  among  themselves, 
the  chiefs,  one  after  another,  arose,  and  advancing  to 
within  six  feet  of  Mr.  Lee,  addressed  him  in  substance 
as  follows,  there  being  but  httle  difference  in  their 
speeches:  ''Great  chief!  we  are  very  much  pleased 
with  our  lands.  We  love  this  world.  We  wish  to  live 
a  great  while.  We  very  much  desire  to  become  old 
men  before  we  die.  It  is  true,  we  have  killed  many 
people,  but  we  have  never  killed  any  but  bad  people. 
Many  lies  have  been  told  about  us.  We  have  been 
called  a  bad  people,  and  we  are  glad  that  you  have  come 
to  see  us  for  yourselves.  We  have  seen  some  white 
people  before,  but  they  came  to  get  our  beaver.  None 
ever  came  before   to  instruct  us.     We  are  glad  to  see 


TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA.  105 

you;  we  want  to  learn;  we  wish  to  throw  away  our  bad 
things,  and  become  good."  They  spoke  very  loud,  and 
their  gestures  were  remarkably  violent.  Sometimes 
the}'-  would  rise  upon  tiptoe,  with  both  hands  stretched 
high  above  their  heads,  and  then  throw  themselves 
forward  until  their  faces  almost  touched  the  ground. 
Returning  to  their  seats  in  the  sand,  they  told  us  that 
they  were  now  prepared  to  hear  us  more  particularly. 

According  to  Mr.  Lee's  request,  I  stepped  out  into 
an  open  sp8.ce  and  struck  into  Heber's  missionary  hymn; 
and  while  singing  the  first  verse,  they  all  seated  them- 
selves on  the  sand,  forming  three-fourths  of  a  circle 
around  us,  and  then  with  the  most  fixed  attention, 
listened  to  the  remaining  part  of  the  hymn.  We  then 
joined  in  prayer,  all  the  Indians  kneeling  with  us,  and 
invoked  upon  our  enterprise  the  blessing  of  Almighty 
God.  Though  our  congregation  was  totally  ignorant  of 
the  nature  of  worship,  yet  the  scene,  to  us,  was  deeply 
affecting.  Never  before  had  they  thus  bowed,  never 
before  had  they  heard  the  voice  of  prayer.  We  then 
preached  to  them  the  gospel  as  well  as  we  could  in  the 
jargon  of  the  country,  giving  them  an  account  of  the 
creation  of  the  world,  the  fall  of  man,  the  advent,  suf- 
ferings, death,  resurrection,  and  ascension  of  Christ,  to 
save  mankind  from  sin,  from  death,  and  from  hell,  all  of 
which  was  interpreted  to  her  people  by  our  female 
friend.  They  appeared  very  solemn,  and  manifested  an 
ardent  desire  to  understand  what  was  said  to  them;  but 
we  scarcely  dared  to  hope  that  they  understood  much, 
though  they  appeared  exceedingly  interested.  Yet  we 
cherished  the  fond  belief  that,  for  the  first  time  in  their 
history,  a  few  rays  from  the  Sun  of  righteousness 
pierced  the  gloom  of  the  long  and  dismal  night  which 
had  hung  around.  The  chiefs  expressed  their  approba- 
tion of  what  they  had  heard,  saying  it  was  all  very  good, 
and  that  they  had  never  heard  such  things  before.  They 
all  dispersed,  and  we  prepared  and  took  our  supper. 

After  dusk  they  all  returned  for  the  purpose,  as  they 
told  us,  of  "  hearing  us  talk  to  God  "  previous  to  our 
going  to  bed.     They  built  a  large  fire,  and  seated  them- 


106  TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA, 

selves  around  it.  I  then  sang  another  hymn;  after 
which  we  both  engaged  in  prayer.  As  they  still  lingered 
around,  Mr.  Lee  gave  them  another  lesson  from  the  word 
of  the  Lord,  after  w^hich  they  reluctantly  scattered  away 
to  their  wigwams,  leaving  us  to  repose  ourselves  on  our 
bed  of  blankets,  spread  upon  the  sand.  Mr.  Lee  slept 
soundly  during  the  night,  but  the  scenes  of  the  preced- 
ing day,  the  circumstances  of  the  night,  and  the  fact 
that  we  were  lying  at  the  mercy  of  those  who  had 
proved  themselves  among  the  most  treacherous  of  sava- 
ges, produced  such  an  effect  upon  my  nerves,  as  to 
destroy  all  inclination  to  close  my  eyes.  I  repeatedly 
drew  aside  the  tent  cloth,  and  cast  a  look  around,  and 
in  every  instance  observed  that  our  protectress  and  her 
brother,  and  an  Indian  who  had  hved  among  the  whites, 
but  had  returned  to  his  people,  were  keeping  up  a  large 
fire  in  front  of  our  tent,  which  threw  its  light  back  into 
the  dense  forest  which  lay  in  our  rear.  Sometimes  they 
were  in  earnest  conversation,  then  they  would  pile  on 
the  dry  sticks  until  the  flame  would  ascend  to  the  height 
of  ten  feet,  and  enable  them  to  distinguish  every  object 
within  a  circle  of  twenty  rods.  This  they  continued 
during  the  whole  night,  neither  of  them  for  a  moment 
attempting  to  sleep. 

Wednesday  morning  arrived,  none  of  the  Indians 
having,  to  our  knowledge,  shown  any  disposition  to  mo- 
lest us  during  the  night.  After  our  breakfast  was  over, 
knowing  that  we  intended  to  leave  so  soon  as  the  tide 
had  risen  sufficiently  to  admit  of  our  passing  over  the 
sand  bar  above,  they  all  collected  again  and  seated 
themselves  on  the  sand,  while  we  once  more  offered  up 
our  fervent  prayers  to  the  '•  Desire  of  nations  "  in  their 
behalf.  After  prayer,  they  were  again  addressed  a  few 
words  ;  and  we  were  preparing  to  leave  them,  when 
one  of  the  chiefs  stood  up  on  his  knees,  and  began  to 
speak.  He  said  he  was  very  glad  that  we  had  come  to 
see  them  ;  that  their  hearts  towards  us  were  like  our 
hearts  towards  them  ;  that  he  wanted  us  to  continue 
with  them  another  day,  and  tell  them  about  God  ;  that 
they  had  heard  about  us,  and  had  been  told  we  were  a 


TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA.  107 

bad  people  ;  that  they  were  glad  to  see  us  for  them- 
selves, and  were  convinced  that  what  they  had  heard 
was  a  lie  ;  that  they  now  believed  us  to  be  a  good  people, 
and  that  they  meant  to  be  good  also.  We  asked  them 
whether  they  would  receive  a  man,  and  use  him  well, 
if  one  were  sent  to  them  alone  1  They  replied,  -'  We 
will  let  him  come  among  us ;  we  will  give  him  food,  and 
will  not  hurt  him,  but  will  do  what  he  says. "  When 
they  were  informed  that  probably  the  next  summer  one 
of  us  would  come  and  visit  them  again,  they  were  ex- 
ceedingly well  pleased,  and  said,  '•  It  is  very  good." 

Before  leaving,  we  visited  their  lodges,  and  one  of 
them  presented  us  with  a  beaver  skin,  and  the  wife  of 
the  principal  chief  gave  us  a  woman's  dress,  which  was 
made  of  cedar  bark.  The  bark  was  strung  out  fine 
about  eighteen  inches  long,  and  woven  together  at  one 
end,  so  as  to  admit  of  being  tied  around  the  person,  thus  ■ 
constituting  a  kind  of  fringe.  Two  of  these  fringes  made 
a  complete  dress  ;  one  was  fastened  around  the  body 
above  the  hips,  and  hung  down  to  the  knees  ;  the  other 
was  tied  around  the  neck,  and  formed  a  covering  for  the 
breast  and  shoulders  ;  the  arms  and  lower  extremities 
being  left  perfectly  unencumbered.  All  the  women 
were  dressed  in  this  manner  w4th  the  exception  of  our 
friend,  and  one  who  had  been  the  slave  of  a  Frenchman, 
but  had  run  away  from  her  master,  and  returned  to  her 
people.  These  were  dressed  somewhat  in  the  style  of  a 
Swiss  peasant. 

Having  fully  satisfied  ourselves  with  regard  to  the 
number,  disposition,  and  accessibility  of  the  Indians  in 
this  solitary  region,  we  prepared  to  take  our  leave,  and 
the  people  all  assembled  to  witness  our  departure.  Giv- 
ing them  a  few  presents,  at  nine  o'clock,  on  Wednesday 
morning,  carried  forward  by  the  stroke  of  the  Indian 
paddle,  we  were  rounding  a  high  bluff  situated  on  the 
south  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  Umpqua  river,  and  form- 
mg  one  side  of  a  small  bay,  in  the  bosom  of  which  the 
Indian  village  we  had  just  left  was  situated,  and  which 
was  fast  disappearing  behind  the  point  of  the  projecting 
cliff.     Crossing  the  mouth  of  the  river,  which  is  about 


lOS  TOUR   TO    THE    UMPQUA. 

one  mile  wide,  we  stopped  a  few  moments  on  the 
north  side  to  lay  in  a  Httle  provision,  and  gave  ourselves 
an  opportunity  to  take  some  observations  of  the  sur- 
rounding country.  The  land  on  both  sides  of  the  mouth 
of  the  river  presents  a  most  forbidding  aspect.  On  the 
south  the  mountains  extend  quite  to  the  waters  of  the 
Pacific,  and  form  a  shore  of  the  most  bold  and  precipi- 
tous character.  On  the  north  is  a  low  sandy  beach  ex- 
tending back  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  about  three 
miles,  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  and  appearing  destitute 
of  vegetation,  except  a  small  growth  of  cottonwood. 
From  our  brief  stay  at  the  place,  and  our  limited  obser- 
vations, it  was  impossible  for  us  to  form  a  just  estimate 
of  the  whole  country  ;  but  it  appeared  to  us,  that  little 
importance  can  be  attached  to  this  portion  of  Oregon, 
viewed  with  reference  to  either  agricultural  or  commer- 
cial pursuits.  However,  as  there  is  a  snug  httle  harbor 
in  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  a  channel  across  the  bar, 
which  will  admit  of  the  ingress  and  egress  of  craft, 
drawing  not  more  than  six  or  eight  feet  of  water,  this 
will  probably  be  the  outlet  for  the  extensive  and  fertile 
valley  above. 

Contemplating  the  probable  period  when  the  barbarism 
of  both  animate  and  inanimate  nature  along  this  river 
shall  give  place  to  civilization  and  Christianity,  we  turned 
our  backs  upon  the  great  Pacific,  and  by  the  combined 
assistance  of  the  Indian  paddle  and  the  flood-tide,  passed 
rapidly  up  the  river,  and  at  night  encamped  at  the  sal- 
mon fishery.  Found  the  river  to  be  affected  by  the  tide 
nearly  twenty-five  miles  from  its  mouth.  We  ascertained 
that  the  Indians  at  the  falls  are  not  of  the  tribe  of  those 
on  the  coas-t,  though  they  speak  a  similar  language. 

Spreading  our  blankets  upon  a  shingle  beach,  we  slept 
without  molestation  though  surrounded  by  treacherous 
savages.  Next  day  we  started  at  an  early  hour,  and 
though  having  but  fifteen  miles  to  travel,  yet  on  account 
of  the  numerous  strong  rapids  we  had  to  ascend,  and 
the  portages  we  had  to  make,  we  were  till  sunset  in 
reaching  the  fort.  We  were  again  welcomed  by  the 
Frenchman,  and  refreshed  with  a  supper  of  bread,  made 


TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA.  109 

of  pounded  wheat,  and  roasted  elk  beef.  During  the 
evening  Mr,  Goniea  came  to  us  considerably  excited,  and 
warmly  congratulated  us  on  the  safe  guardianship  his 
wife  had  exercised  over  us  in  our  absence.  He  said 
that,  in  all  probability,  we  should  have  been  robbed  of 
all  we  had,  if  we  had  not  lost  our  lives,  had  it  not  been 
for  the  faithfulness  of  his  wife  and  her  brother.  He 
told  us  that  one  of  the  chiefs  of  the  clan  we  had  visited, 
was  at  the  fort  on  our  first  arrival,  and  saw  us  as  we 
came  in.  Learning  that  we  designed  to  visit  his  people 
on  the  coast,  and  excited  with  the  utmost  fear,  he  hast- 
ened down  the  river,  and  reported  many  evil  things 
about  us,  intending  thereby  to  instigate  the  Indians  to 
prevent  our  going  among  them.  Mr.  Lee  had  brought 
a  fowHng  piece  with  him,  and  had  in  his  possession  a 
patent  shot  pouch.  This  was  the  thing  that  had  alarmed 
the  chief  One  story  he  told  was  that  we  had  brought 
medicine  in  a  bag  that  Mr.  Lee  wore  on  his  neck,  for  the 
purpose  of  kiUing  them  all  oflf;  and,  that  if  we  were 
permitted  to  come  among  them,  the  fatal  bag  would  be 
opened,  and  they  would  all  be  destroyed.  This  exaspe- 
rated many  of  them,  and  Goniea's  wife  told  him  that  we 
were  in  great  danger  the  night  we  slept  on  the  coast ; 
that  the  Indians  were  lurking  about  us  during  the  whole 
night,  seeking  an  opportunity,  when  it  was  dark  around 
our  tent,  to  attack  us ;  but  that  she  and  her  brother  kept 
a  constant  watch  over  us  until  morning.  This  explained 
to  me  the  circumstances  of  that  night,  already  described. 
But  be  this  as  it  may,  we  were  not,  at  the  time,  sensible 
that  w^e  were  particularly  exposed  ;  and  we  felt  our- 
selves safe  under  the  protection  of  our  Heavenly  Father. 
Notwithstanding  the  seeming  favor  with  which  we 
were  received  among  them,  the  Indians  along  this  river, 
and  especially  those  on  the  coast,  have  often  proved  to 
be  among  the  most  treacherous  of  savages,  and  none 
have  ever  been  among  them,  but  have  learned  that  they 
are  capable  of  practising  the  most  consummate  dupli- 
city. A  story  told  by  the  gentlemen  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  concerning  what  transpired  on  this  river, 
clearly  illustrates  the  treachery  and  cruelty  of  these 


110  TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA. 

savages,  as  well  as  the  perilous  adventures  of  the  Oregon 
mountaineers. 

A  company  of  fur  hunters,  know^n  by  the  name  of  the 
Smith,  Sublette  &  Jackson  Company,  was  formed  on 
the  frontiers  of  civilization,  and  the  plan  proposed  to 
accomplish  their  object  was,  to  divide  the  company  be- 
twixt the  three  leaders,  and  the  three  portions  to  sepa- 
rate, each  taking  a  given  quantity  of  the  Indian  territory 
to  explore.  In  this  division,  Smith  was  to  take  the 
country  extending  from  the  Platte  river,  by  the  way  of 
Santa  Fe,  to  California  ;  thence  turn  north  along  the 
Pacific  ocean,  as  far  as  the  Columbia  river,  and  thence 
back  into  the  interior  to  join  the  other  partners  of  the 
company. 

The  country  was  in  its  wildest  state,  but  few  white 
men  having  ever  passed  through  it.  But  nothing  daunted. 
Smith  and  his  company  marched  through  to  Cahfornia, 
and  thence  along  the  coast,  north,  as  far  as  the  Umpqua 
river,  collecting  in  their  progress  all  the  valuable  furs 
they  could  procure,  until  they  had  loaded  several  ''pack 
animals"  with  the  precious  burden.  On  arriving  here, 
they  encamped  on  the  border  of  the  river,  near  the 
place  where  they  intended  to  cross,  but  on  examination, 
found  that  it  would  be  dangerous,  if  not  impossible,  to 
effect  the  passage  of  the  river  at  that  place.  Accord- 
ingly, Smith  took  one  of  his  men  and  proceeded  up  the 
river  on  foot,  for  the  purpose  of  finding  a  better  place 
to  cross.  In  his  absence  the  Indians,  instigated  by  one 
of  the  savage  looking  chiefs  whom  we  saw  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  rushed  upon  the  party  with  their  muskets, 
bows  and  arrows,  tomahawks  and  scalping  knives,  and 
commenced  the  work  of  death.  From  the  apparent 
kindness  of  the  Indians  previously,  the  party  had  been 
thrown  entirely  off  their  guard,  and  consequently  were 
"'mmediately  overpowered  by  their  ferocious  enemies, 
and  but  one  out  of  the  twelve  in  camp,  escaped  from 
the  cruel  massacre.  Scarcely  knowing  which  way  he 
fled,  this  one  fell  in  with  Smith,  who  was  on  his  return 
to  the  camp,  and  who  received  from  the  survivor  the 
shocking  account  of  the  murder  of  eleven  of  his  com- 


TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA.  Ill 

rades.  Smith,  seeing  that  all  was  lost,  resolved  upon 
attempting  nothing  further  than  to  do  his  best  to  secure 
his  own  personal  safety,  with  that  of  his  surviving  com- 
panions, the  Indians  having  secured  all  the  fur,  horses, 
mules,  baggage,  and  every  thing  the  company  had.  The 
three  immediately  crossed  the  river,  and  made  the  best 
of  their  way  through  a  savage  and  inhospitable  country 
towards  Vancouver,  where,  after  traveling  between  two 
and  three  hundred  miles,  and  suffering  the  greatest  de- 
privations, they  finally  arrived  in  safety. 

Rehearsing  the  story  of  their  wonderful  escape  and 
subsequent  sufferings,  to  the  members  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  the  utmost  sympathy  was  excited  in  their 
behalf,  and  a  strong  party  was  immediately  fitted  out  to 
go  and  rescue  the  property  from  the  savage  robbers,  and 
restore  it  to  its  surviving  owners.  The  vigor  and  per- 
severance of  this  party,  were  equal  to  the  promptitude 
with  which  it  was  fitted  out.  They  proceeded  to  the 
scene  of  blood,  and  after  committing  the  mangled  bodies 
of  Smith's  murdered  companions  to  the  grave,  compelled 
the  Indians  to  relinquish  the  property  they  had  taken, 
spread  terror  through  the  tribe,  and  returned  in  triumph 
to  Vancouver.  All  this  labor  and  expense  were  bestowed 
by  the  company  gratuitously,  and  Smith  and  his  friends, 
while  at  Vancouver,  were  fed  and  clothed  without  money 
and  without  price.  In  addition  to  this.  Governor  Simp- 
son, who,  at  that  time,  was  at  Vancouver,  proposed  to 
take  Smith  and  all  his  furs  to  England,  where  he  could 
avail  himself  of  the  advantages  of  the  London  market, 
and  obtain  a  higher  price  ;  but  Smith  replied  that  he 
had  already  been  laid  under  too  many  obligations  by  the 
company,  and  could  not  consent  to  receive  this  last  prof- 
fered favor.  Accordingly  he  sold  his  furs  to  the  com- 
pany and  went  into  the  interior,  where  he  found  Sublette 
conflicting  in  his  trade  with  the  interests  of  the  company, 
and  induced  him  to  leave  that  quarter.  He  then  went 
into  the  country  of  the  Colorado,  and  collected  conside- 
rable property  in  furs  and  peltries  ;  but  in  crossing  that 
river,  he  was  again  defeated  by  the  Indians,  and  lost  all. 
Subsequently,  he  returned  to  St.  Louis,  and  fitted  out  an 


112  TOUR   TO   THE    UMPQUA, 

expedition  to  Sante  Fe,  But  this  was  his  last  journey 
among  hostile  tribes^  Surrounded  by  the  savage  horde 
that  beset  his  path,  he  was  again  attacked  by  his  relent- 
less foe,  and  miserably  perished. 

Having  listened  to  the  story  of  the  ill-fated  Smith,  we 
prepared  to  continue  our  exploring  tour  farther  into 
the  interior,  and  up  the  valley  of  the  Umpqua  river. 
Through  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Goniea,  we  procured  an 
Indian  guide  of  the  Umpqua  tribe,  whom  the  French 
had  designated  by  the  name  of  "  We-We,"  and  who  well 
understood  the  jargon  of  the  country,  and  could  officiate 
as  our  interpreter.  The  forenoon  of  Friday  was  spent 
in  finding  our  horses,  and  preparing  our  pack.  All  being 
ready,  betwixt  twelve  and  one  o'clock  we  started,  with 
our  guide  in  advance.  Passing  over  a  number  of  high 
hills,  and  fording  the  Umpqua  three  times,  where  the 
bottom  was  very  rocky  and  the  water  up  to  our  horses' 
backs,  we  camped  at  night  on  the  bank  of  a  small  rivulet, 
under  the  shelter  of  a  grove  of  fir.  We  had  traveled 
about  twenty  miles.  The  country  traversed  that  day, 
though  mountainous,  is  tolerably  well  adapted  to  grazing 
purposes,  the  land  on  the  hills,  and  in  many  of  the  valleys, 
being  covered  with  a  spontaneous  growth  of  the  most 
nutritious  grass.  The  timber  grows  less  and  less  abun- 
dant as  we  proceed  up  the  river;  some  of  the  fir  trees, 
however,  are  most  magnificent.  We  measured  one  with 
our  lasso  as  high  up  as  we  could  reach,  and  found  it  to 
be  thirty-six  feet  in  circumference.  We  judged  it  to  be 
three  hundred  feet  high.  In  the  lowest  valleys  next  the 
streams,  grows  a  kind  of  timber,  the  like  of  which  I 
have  never  seen  in  any  other  country.  It  appears  to 
be  of  the  laurel  family,  and  is  so  strongly  scented,  that 
the  air  in  the  groves  where  it  is  found,  is  strongly  im- 
pregnated with  its  aromatic  odors.  The  elk  abound  in 
this  country,  and  afford  a  fruitful  source  whence  the 
Indians  derive  a  subsistence.  No  Indians  appeared 
during  the  first  day. 

Saturday,  29th.  Continued  our  toilsome  way  over 
mountains,  and  through  valleys  similar  to  those  already 
described,  and  at  noon  arrived  at  the  head  quarters  of 


TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA.  113 

that  portion  of  the  Indians  of  this  valley,  distinguished 
by  the  name  of  the  river.  Here  the  head  chief  of  the 
Umpquas  has  fixed  a  temporary  abode,  and  here  one  of 
those  circumstances  recently  transpired,  v^^hich,  though 
of  common  occurrence  in  heathen  countries,  where 
the  vicious  propensities  of  depraved  human  nature  are 
permitted  to  revel  uncontrolled,  are  sufficient  to  freeze 
the  heart's  blood,  even  to  contemplate  at  a  distance.  It 
is  as  follows:  A  report  came  to  the  ears  of  the  chief  of 
the  Umpquas,  that  his  wife  had  been  guilty  of  infidelity 
towards  her  husband.  This  so  enraged  him,  that,  with- 
out knowing  whether  the  report  was  true  or  false,  he 
seized  his  musket,  and  went  directly  to  the  lodge  where 
his  wife  was  sitting,  and  deliberately  shot  her  through 
the  heart. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  on  the  side  of  the  river  oppo- 
site to  the  village,  this  chief,  with  the  few  men  that  were 
with  him,  came  over  to  see  us.  He  delivered  a  long 
speech,  which  was  interpreted  to  us  by  "We- We,"  in 
making  which,  one  of  his  first  objects  seemed  to  be  to 
justify  the  murder  of  his  wife,  and  then  to  express  his 
gratitude  that  christian  teachers  had  come  among  them. 
While  he  was  haranguing  us,  my  attention  was  caught 
away  from  his  speech  by  a  terrible  burst  of  heathen 
passions,  which  took  place  on  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
among  the  lodges.  In  the  absence  of  the  men,  the 
women  had  a  regular  fight,  scratching  and  biting  one 
another,  and  tearing  each  other's  hair,  and  squalling 
most  frightfully.  So  tremendous  was  the  explosion  that 
even  the  chief  paused  in  the  midst  of  his  address,  and 
significantly  remarked,  "our  women  3ire  hias  masicha ;^^ 
(very  bad.)  Such  wei-e  the  indications  here,  that  we 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  sooner  we  were  out  of 
the  place  the  better  it  would  be  for  us,  and  so  soon  as 
we  had  taken  a  little  refreshment  from  our  scanty  stores, 
we  told  our  guide  that  we  were  ready  to  proceed;  but 
he  positively  refused  to  go  any  farther  that  day,  saying 
that  it  would  be  using  his  people  very  ill,  and  that  the 
chief  would  be  very  angry  with  us,  if  we  did  not  stop 
and  sleep  with  them  one  night.  The  contention  became 
5* 


114  TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA. 

quite  warm,  and  we  began  to  consider  ourselves  in  rather 
critical  circumstances.  If  abandoned  by  our  guide,  it 
was  extremely  doubtful  whether  we  could  find  our  way 
back  to  the  fort,  or  forward  to  the  great  valley  of  the 
Umpqua.  The  whole  country  was  rough  and  mountain- 
ous, and  there  was  no  visible  trail  but  a  small  portion  of 
the  way. 

But  with  all  these  difficulties,  we  showed  that  we  were 
fixed  in  our  resolutions  to  leave  this  suspicious  horde  of 
savages  before  darkness  should  favor  them  in  the  execu- 
tion of  any  treacherous  designs  which  they  might  enter- 
tain towards  us.  Discovering  that  we  were  ready  to 
mount  our  horses.  We- We  became  more  pliable,  and 
said  that  he  would  proceed  with  us,  on  condition  that  we 
would  pay  him  an  extra  shirt,  we  having  at  first  given 
him  a  shirt  and  a  pair  of  pantaloons.  Mr.  Lee  said  he 
would  give  him  no  more,  but,  to  get  rid  of  the  difficulty, 
I  told  We- We  that  if  he  would  go,  I  would  give  him  the 
additional  shirt  so  soon  as  we  should  reach  the  great 
valley.  Turning  to  his  people,  We- We  addressed  them 
a  few  words  in  the  Umpqua  language,  and  then  told  us 
he  was  ready  to  go.  Accordingly,  we  left  this  group  of 
wretched  beings  about  three  o'clock,  p.  m.,  and  galloped 
swiftly  over  a  little  plain,  towards  a  high  mountain. 
Three  hours'  hard  labor  in  ascending  and  descending, 
brought  us  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain  on  the  opposite 
side,  and  passing  through  a  dense  thicket,  we  found 
ourselves  again  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  We- We 
brought  out  a  well  known  Indian  "whoop,"  and  was 
answered  by  another  Indian,  just  below  us,  on  the  river. 
Immediately  four  Indians  came  in  sight,  with  a  canoe, 
and  We- We  told  us  we  had  better  unpack  our  horses, 
and  put  all  our  things  in  a  canoe  to  be  taken  up  the  river, 
a  few  miles  beyond  a  place  where  the  pass  was  very 
rocky,  narrow,  and  dangerous.  But  the  strange  conduct 
of  the  Indians  we  had  left,  had  excited  our  suspicions; 
and  supposing  that  those  in  the  canoe  were  some  of  the 
same  party  whom  We-We  had,  perhaps,  caused  to  come 
up  the  river  for  no  good  purpose,  we  resolved  to  keep 
what  we  had  under  our  own  eye  as  long  as  we  could. 


TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA.  115 

We  told  the  guide  that  we  should  keep  our  things  on 
our  horses'  backs.  We- We  hung  his  head,  and  told  us 
we  would  be  sorry  for  it  before  we  got  through.  We 
proceeded,  but  found  it  as  We-We  had  forewarned  us. 
Our  trail  lay  along  a  frightful  precipice  which  towered 
far  above  us,  and  extended  far  below  us,  and  in  some 
places  was  so  narrow  and  broken  that  a  miss-step  would 
have  precipitated  us  headlong  on  the  rocks  below,  or 
into  the  rushing  waters  of  the  Umpqua.  In  one  instance 
my  own  horse  fell  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  down  the  rocks, 
but  at  length  succeeded  in  gaining  the  trail  without 
receiving  much  injury. 

But  we  were  not  destined  to  make  the  pass,  without 
considerable  difficulty.  In  passing  the  last  dangerous 
point,  "old  Pomp,  "  our  pack  horse,  lost  his  footing,  and 
rolling  down  a  rocky  steep  of  some  thirty  feet,  went 
backwards  into  the  Umpqua  river.  We  had  fastened 
around  his  neck  a  long  lasso,  and  the  end  of  it  remaining 
on  shore,  we  succeeded,  by  drawing  it  around  a  tree,  in 
raising  and  keeping  his  head  above  the  water  until  We- 
We  had  relieved  him  of  his  pack.  While  We-We  was 
at  work  among  the  rocks,  where  the  water  was  up  to 
his  neck,  trying  to  relieve  the  horse  of  his  burden,  he 
told  us  that  we  might  have  saved  ourselves  that  difficulty, 
if  we  had  trusted  to  the  honesty  of  an  Indian  ;  and  we 
ourselves  began  to  suspect  that  our  fears  had  been  quite 
groundless.  It  required  our  utmost  efforts  to  keep  the 
horse  from  drowning  ;  but  after  we  had  relieved  him  of 
his  load,  he  managed  himself  a  little  better,  and  finding  a 
place  which  was  not  quite  so  steep  as  the  one  where  he 
entered  the  river,  we  succeeded,  at  that  point,  in  getting 
him  on  the  rocky  shore.  All  our  bedding,  provisions, 
&c.,  were  thoroughly  soaked  ;  but  gathering  up  what 
was  not  spoiled,  and  putting  some  on  the  horses,  and 
carrying  some  on  our  own  shoulders,  we  started  on, 
being  informed  by  the  guide,  that  it  was  not  far  to  a  fine 
prairie.  Night  began  to  set  in,  and  as  we  left  the  scene 
of  our  disaster,  we  entered  a  dense  forest  of  fir,  and  the 
gloom  continued  to  thicken  around  us  until  we  were  en- 
veloped in  total  darkness.    We  were  leading  our  animals 


116  TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA. 

by  the  bridle,  and  feeling  our  way  among  the  trees,  in 
the  midst  of  darkness,  so  dense  that  it  was  impossible  to 
see  a  white  horse,  though  within  a  foot  of  one's  nose, 
when  we  became  so  entangled  among  the  logs,  ravines, 
and  brush,  that  we  found  it  was  impossible  to  go  either 
forwards  or  backwards,  to  the  right  or  to  the  left,  and 
colloquising  a  little  through  the  darkness,  we  came  to 
the  conclusion  to  tie  our  horses  to  the  trees,  and  make 
the  best  of  the  night  we  could.  Having  a  few  matches 
in  my  pocket,  and  the  leaves  and  limbs  under  my  feet 
being  perfectly  dry,  I  soon  had  the  forest  illuminated, 
and  then  was  disclosed  to  our  view  a  most  horrible  place. 
We  sought  for  a  spot  on  which  to  sleep,  but  could  find 
none  level  and  large  enough  to  stretch  ourselves  upon. 
We  must  either  bend  over  the  top  of  a  knoll,  or  double 
up  in  a  ravine,  or  remain  in  a  sitting  or  standing  posture. 
We  preferred  the  second,  so  wrapping  ourselves  in  our 
wet  blankets  and  rolling  into  a  hollow,  we  tried  to  com- 
pose ourselves  to  sleep  ;  but  the  cracking  of  limbs  by 
the  tramp  of  our  horses,  the  howling  of  wolves,  and  the 
screech  of  an  owl,  frequently  disturbed  our  repose.  The 
morning  sun,  however,  enabled  us  so  to  adjust  our  rather 
disarranged  affairs  that  we  could,  quite  comfortably, 
prosecute  our  journey.  Next  day  was  Sabbath,  but  we 
could  not  remain  where  we  were,  and  we  proceeded 
on  a  few  miles,  and  came  to  a  band  of  about  thirty  of 
the  Umpquas,  with  whom  we  tarried  for  several  hours. 
They  behaved  themselves  quite  orderly,  and  were  anx- 
ious to  render  us  all  the  assistance  in  their  power.  We 
preached  the  gospel  to  them  as  well  as  we  were  able, 
and  they  said  they  wanted  very  much  to  have  a  mission- 
ary come  among  them.  Not  desiring  to  sleep  in  the 
vicinity  of  their  lodge,  we  made  signs  of  wishing  to 
leave,  and  the  old  men  came  around  us,  of  whom  thei'e 
were  several,  and  patting  us  on  the  shoulders,  seemed 
to  express  great  attachment.  But  we  concluded  that 
iheir  love  was  not  so  ardent  as  to  render  it  desirable,  on 
our  part,  to  stop  with  them  over  night,  and,  as  our  pro- 
vision was  growing  scarce,  we  decided  to  set  our  faces 
towards  the  Wallamette  valley.    Gathering  up  the  wreck 


TOUR    TO    THK    UMPQUA.  117 

of  our  pack,  we  again  mounted,  and  traveling  about 
twelve  miles,  encamped  on  the  bank  of  a  beautiful  rivu- 
let which  is  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Umpqua.  We 
traveled  during  the  whole  day  the  distance  of  twenty- 
five  miles,  over  as  fine  a  country  as  can  be  found  in  any 
part  of  the  world.  An  agreeable  variety  of  hills,  plains, 
and  groves  of  pine,  fir,  and  oak,  constituted  scenery  of 
the  most  picturesque  beauty,  and  the  eye  was  never 
weary  in  gazing  upon  the  ever  varying  picture.  In  ad- 
dition to  this,  the  soil  is  good,  the  grass  abundant,  and 
the  country  well  watered  ;  but  as  we  proceeded  up  the 
valley  of  the  Umpqua,  the  timber  became  scarce.  A 
few  pine  on  the  hills,  with  a  few  scattering  oak,  are  the 
principal  kinds.  Though  the  country  is  now  destitute 
of  inhabitants,  except  the  wild  beasts,  and  a  few  savages 
as  wild  as  they,  yet  the  day  is  not  far  distant,  when  it 
will  be  teeming  with  a  civilized  and  christian  people. 

The  Indians  inhabiting  the  Umpqua  valley,  from  the 
Pacific  ocean  one  hundred  miles  into  the  interior,  are 
very  few.  All  that  we  could  find,  or  get  any  satisfac- 
tory evidence  as  now  in  existence,  did  not  exceed  three 
hundred  and  seventy-five  souls.  These  live  in  several 
diflferent  clans,  and  speak  two  distinct  languages.  They 
would  be  favorable  towards  the  establishment  of  a  mis- 
sion in  their  country,  but  seem  to  think  that  the  greatest 
benefit  it  would  confer  on  them,  would  be  to  enable  them 
to  sell  their  beaver  and  deer-skins  for  a  higher  price. 
Temporal  good  is  the  sole  object  they  would  have  in 
view.  The  most  of  them,  residing  as  they  do  on  the 
coast,  are  almost  inaccessible,  and  the  establishment  and 
support  of  a  mission  among  them,  would  be  attended 
with  immense  expense.  The  best  information  we  could 
obtain,  from  the  Indians  and  others,  led  us  to  the  conclu- 
sion that  the  time  doubtless  has  been  when  the  Indians 
of  this  valley  were  vastly  more  numerous  than  at  present. 
The  Umpqua  tribe,  but  a  few  years  ago  numbering  seve- 
ral hundred,  by  disease  and  their  family  wars  has  been 
reduced  to  less  than  seventy-five  souls.  .  Under  the  im- 
pression that  the  doom  of  extinction  is  suspended  over 
this  wretched  race,  and  that  the  hand  of  Providence  is 


118  TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA. 

removing  them  to  give  place  to  a  people  more  worthy 
of  this  beautiful  and  fertile  country,  we  arrived  at  the 
place  of  our  encampment,  and  found  ourselves  again  on 
the  great  California  trail. 

Having  fulfilled  his  engagement  in  bringing  us  around 
to  this  trail,  our  guide  left  us  to  return  to  his  people. 

Monday,  September  1st.  We  quickened  our  pace 
through  a  country  well  adapted  to  agricultural  purposes, 
and  abounding  in  every  variety  of  scenery  ;  and  at  noon, 
having  traveled  twenty-five  miles,  we  stopped  for  dinner 
on  Elk  river,  at  the  place  where,  on  going  out,  we  left 
the  California  trail.  In  the  afternoon,  we  again  passed 
over  the  Elk  mountain,  and  found  that  the  fire  was  still 
raging  with  increasing  violence.  A  vast  quantity  of  the 
large  fir  and  cedar  timber,  had  been  burned  down,  and 
in  some  places  the  trail  was  so  blockaded  with  fallen 
trees,  that  it  was  almost  impossible  to  proceed ;  while 
now  and  then  we  passed  a  giant  cedar,  or  a  mammoth 
fir,  through  whose  trunk  the  fire  had  made  a  passage, 
and  was  still  flaming  like  an  oven.  Every  few  moments 
these  majestic  spars  would  come  "  cracking,  crashing, 
and  thundering"  to  the  ground  ;  but  while  the  fire  was 
thus  robbing  the  mountain  of  its  glory,  we  pushed  on 
over  its  desolated  ridges,  and  at  sun-down  arrived  on  a 
little  prairie  at  its  base,  where  we  made  our  encampment. 
Several  times  during  the  night  we  were  awakened  by 
the  crash  of  the  falling  timber,  on  the  mountain,  which 
sometimes  produced  a  noise  similar  to  that  of  distant 
thunder. 

Tuesday,  2d.  Homeward  bound,  at  noon  we  arrived 
in  the  Wallamette  valley,  where,  according  to  engage- 
ment, we  met  the  Callapooah  chief  He  had  collected 
about  sixty  of  his  people,  and  said  that  he  had  about 
forty  more.  We  remained  with  them  four  hours,  and 
endeavored  to  preach  to  them  "Jesus  and  the  resurrec- 
tion. "  Many  of  them  were  sick,  and  they  appeared 
wretched  beyond  description.  Our  bowels  of  compassion 
yearned  over  them,  but  it  was  not  in  our  power  to  help 
them.  Commending  them  to  God,  at  four,  p.  m.,  we 
pursued  our  way  ;    but  finding  no  water,  we  did  not 


TOUR    TO    THE    UMPQUA.  119 

camp  till  eleven  o'clock  at  night.  We  were  then  obliged 
to  strip  our  horses  on  the  open  prairie,  and  turn  them 
loose  without  water,  and  lay  ourselves  down  upon  our 
blankets  with  our  lips  parched  with  thirst.  Next  morn- 
ing, however,  we  found  ourselves,  like  Hagar  in  the 
desert,  within  a  short  distance  of  good  water.  Here  I 
roasted  a  duck  for  our  breakfast,  which  the  Callapooah 
chief  had  given  us,  and  which  we  ate  with  neither  bread 
nor  sauce  ;  but  a  cup  of  coffee,  that  "  sine  qua  non  "  for 
prairie  travehng,  washed  it  down,  and  on  the  strength 
of  it,  we  traveled  forty  miles,  during  the  day,  over  a 
country  of  surpassing  loveliness,  on  account  of  its  en- 
chanting scenery  and  amazing  fertility.  Surely,  thought 
I,  infinite  skill  has  here  been  employed,  in  fitting  up  a 
country  which  requires  nothing  more  than  a  population 
under  the  influence  of  the  religion  of  Christ,  to  render 
it  a  perfect  paradise.  The  last  night  we  encamped  within 
fifteen  miles  of  our  families  and  friends,  and  the  next 
day,  Thursday,  the  4th,  we  arrived  at  home  in  safety, 
but  found  our  families  all  prostrate  with  the  ague  and 
fever.  Having  been  constantly  in  a  healthy  exercise  in 
our  absence,  we  returned  in  the  enjoyment  of  good 
health,  and  were  consequently  able  to  render  ourselves 
useful  in  taking  care  of  the  sick. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Tour  to  Vancouver  —  Reception  at  the  fort  —  Preaching  in  the  hall  —  Business 
completed  —  Expedient  to  keep  warm  —  Cold  weather  —  Difficult  navigation  — 
The  rapids  —  Forest  encampment  —  Strange  visitor  —  Affecting  intelligence  — 
Death  of  Rev,  James  Olley  —  My  Mohican  guest  —  Return  home  —  Meeting  — 
Fruitless  attempt  to  recover  a  dead  body. 

December  7th  1 842.  Left  the  Wallamette  for  Van- 
couver, for  the  purpose  of  procuring  supphes  for  the 
Oregon  Mission  School,  accompanied  by  five  Indian 
boys. 

Proceeded  on  horse-back  about  tw^enty-five  miles  to  a 
place  on  the  Wallamette  river,  called,  by  the  French, 
"La  Butte,"  this  being  the  most  convenient  place  to 
land  our  supplies.  Here,  after  having  slept  beneath  the 
w^ide  spreading  branches  of  a  large  fir  tree,  we  took  the 
canoe  v^hich  is  kept  by  the  mission  above  the  falls  of  the 
Wallamette,  for  the  purpose  of  transporting  goods  up 
and  dow^n  the  river,  and  proceeded  to  "  Tum  Water,  " 
that  is,  the  falls.  We  left  our  canoe  above  the  portage, 
and  taking  a  boat  provided  for  us  by  Mr.  Abernethy, 
the  mission  stev^ard,  we  continued  on  about  fifteen  miles 
below  the  falls,  and  encamped  one  hour  after  sundown, 
having  rowed  our  canoe  and  boat  during  the  day  the 
distance  of  thirty-five  miles. 

The  night  was  very  cold,  but  collecting  a  large  quan- 
tity of  fuel,  we  were  able  to  keep  up  a  good  fire  during 
the  night,  and  in  this  manner  kept  ourselves  comfortably 
warm.  Started  the  next  morning  as  soon  as  it  was  day, 
and,  though  for  six  miles  we  had  to  contend  with  the 
strong  current  of  the  Columbia,  we  arrived  at  Vancouver 
at  two  o'clock,  p.  M.  I  went  directly  to  the  fort,  and 
had  an  interview  with  James  Douglass,  Esq.,  one  of  the 


TOUR    TO    VANCOUVER.  121 

commandants  of  the  place,  and  ascertained  that  I  should 
be  able  to  accomplish  my  business  early  on  Monday 
moi'ning.  I  was  received  with  all  that  courtesy  and 
hospitality  which  usually  characterize  the  gentlemen  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  It  was  Saturday,  and  in 
the  evening  I  received  a  respectful  invitation  from  Mr. 
Douglass,  to  preach  in  the  hall,  the  following  day.  Ac- 
cordingly, after  the  usual  church  service  was  read,  I 
endeavored  to  explain  and  enforce  the  inquiry  of  the 
jailer — "What  must  I  do  to  be  saved  1" 

On  Monday  morning,  the  11th,  having  completed  my 
business,  and  prepared  to  return,  we  proceeded  to  our 
boat,  and  found  the  Columbia  river  filled  with  ice.  The 
weather  had  been  increasingly  cold,  and  the  ice  came 
down  the  river  in  large  fields,  and  threatened  to  put  a 
stop,  for  the  time  being,  to  the  navigation  of  the  stream. 
However,  it  had  not  yet  become  very  hard,  and  though 
there  was  some  danger  in  the  attempt,  yet  we  launched 
forth  into  the  stream,  and  breaking  our  way  through  the 
ice  with  our  setting  poles,  we  at  length  succeeded  in 
getting  safely  into  the  mouth  of  the  Wallamette. 

This  river  being  clear  from  ice,  we  proceeded  up 
about  seven  miles,  and  encamped  under  a  high  bluft', 
which  sheltered  us  from  the  piercing  winds  from  the 
north-east.  The  ground  being  frozen,  the  weather  ex- 
ceedingly cold,  and,  withal,  a  scarcity  of  bedding,  I  took 
the  following  precaution  to  ensure  a  comfortable  night : 
J  built  a  large  fire  where  I  designed  to  make  my  bed, 
and  after  the  earth  became  thoroughly  warmed  and 
dried,  I  removed  the  fire  a  little  distance,  and  plucking 
some  fir  boughs,  threw  them  upon  the  heated  earth  ; 
then  spreading  my  buffalo  skin  upon  the  boughs,  I  lay 
down  upon  it,  and  with  a  couple  of  blankets  over  me, 
slept  comfortably  during  the  night. 

Next  day  at  noon,  we  arrived  at  the  falls,  and  on 
Wednesday,  the  13th,  made  our  portage.  At  two,  p. 
M.,  we  proceeded  up  the  rapids  above  the  falls,  which, 
at  that  season  of  the  year,  are  very  difficult  of  ascent. 
They  are  ascended  by  cordeling,  and  it  is  frequently 
necessary  to  work  for  hours  in  the  water  among  the 


122  TOUR    TO    VANCOUVER, 

rocks,  in  order  to  get  up  one  boat  load,  an  exercise  any- 
thing but  agreeable  when  the  mercury  is  nearly  dov^n  to 
zero.  We  succeeded,  however,  with  much  toiling,  and 
a  severe  wetting,  in  reaching  the  deep  water  above  the 
rapids,  without  any  serious  accident,  and  at  night  en- 
camped seven  miles  above  the  falls,  in  a  dense  forest  of 
fir  trees.  I  had  preserved  a  few  matches  from  getting 
wet,  and  succeeded,  after  awhile,  in  striking  up  a  good 
fire,  though  the  wood  where  we  were  encamped  was 
very  wet.  I  cooked  me  a  supper  of  fresh  salmon,  not 
forgetting  to  make  a  good  cup  of  tea;  and  after  partak- 
ing of  my  humble  repast  from  my  ground  table,  with 
that  pecuhar  rehsh  which  good  health  and  hard  labor 
always  give  to  wholesome  food,  and  offering  up  a  tribute 
of  thanksgiving  to  Providence  for  the  blessings  of  the 
past,  and  invoking  a  continuance  of  his  favors,  I  spread 
my  skins  and  blankets  upon  the  ground,  and  reclined 
myself  to  rest. 

As  I  lay  stretched  upon  my  bed  of  skins  before  the 
fire,  musing  upon  the  good  providence  of  God,  which 
had  been  manifested  in  our  preservation  amid  the  dan- 
gers to  which  we  had  been  exposed  in  ascending  the 
fearful  rapids,  I  was  startled  by  the  voice  of  a  man  from 
the  river  below  us,  inquiring,  '^What  boat  is  that?"  I 
replied,  it  belongs  to  the  Oregon  mission.  "  Then,"  said 
he,  "  I  will  come  ashore."  It  was  ten  o'clock  at  night, 
and  it  was  quite  an  uncommon  thing  for  boats  to  remain 
upon  the  river  to  so  late  an  hour.  Consequently,  I  felt 
quite  sohcitous  to  know  who  the  stranger  might  be.  The 
sound  of  his  oars,  as  they  fell  upon  the  water,  grew 
louder  and  louder  as  he  approached  the  shore,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  he  was  along  side  of  our  boat,  to  which  he 
fastened  his  small  skiff.  Clambering  up  the  precipitous 
bank  of  the  river  through  the  thick  underbrush,  the  light 
of  our  fire  reheved  me  of  some  anxiety,  as  it  shone  upon 
the  face  of  a  "  half-breed  "  Indian,  direct  from  the  place 
where  I  resided,  which  was  forty  miles  above. 

This  half-breed  was  an  educated  man,  and  a  sketch  of 
his  history  may  be  found  below.  After  giving  me  the 
gratifying  intelligence  that  my  own  familv  were  well,  he 


TOUR    TO    VANCOUVER.  123 

inquired  if  I  had  heard  the  sad  news.  "  What  nev^^s  V 
said  I,  "  I  have  heard  nothing  sad."  ^'  Then,"  said  he, 
**I  am  the  bearer  of  intelHgence  concerning  the  most 
afflicting  event  that  has  ever  transpired  in  our  settle- 
ment: the  Rev.  James  Olley  is  no  more.''^  IntelHgence 
more  unexpected  could  scarcely  have  been  communica- 
ted; and  v^hen  the  circumstances  of  the  removal  of  Mr. 
Olley  from  this  stage  of  action  w^ere  related,  the  effect 
upon  my  mind  was  quite  overpowering. 

Mr.  Olley  was  a  local  preacher  in  the  Oregon  mission, 
and  sailed  from  New  York  in  the  fall  of  1839,  with  the 
large  reinforcement  in  the  ship  Lausanne.  He  was  a 
carpenter  by  trade,  and  after  his  arrival  in  Oregon,  con- 
tinued to  serve  the  mission  in  that  capacity,  as  he  was 
able.  He  was  making  preparations  to  build  himself  a 
house,  and  desiring  some  better  lumber  than  any  he  could 
obtain  in  the  vicinity  of  the  mission  for  the  purpose  of 
making  window  sash,  he  had  employed  a  young  man  by 
the  name  of  Eiken  to  accompany  him  up  the  Wallamette 
river  about  twenty  miles,  where  there  was  pine  timber, 
with  the  design  of  procuring  a  couple  of  logs  and  run- 
ning them  down  the  river  to  the  mission  saw-mill,  where 
they  could  be  cut  into  boards  to  suit  his  purpose.  He 
proceeded  to  the  pinery,  and  cutting  two  small  sized  logs 
rolled  them  into  the  water,  but  found  that  they  were  so 
heavy  they  would  not  float.  He  had  designed  to  take 
them  in  tow,  but  finding  that  they  would  sink  to  the 
bottom,  he  resolved  upon  this  expedient,  to  raise  them 
to  the  surface,  and  lash  a  log  to  each  side  of  his  canoe. 
All  being  prepared  they  entered  the  canoe  thus  encum- 
bered, and  committed  themselves  to  the  rapid  and 
treacherous  current  of  Wallamette  river.  The  weather 
was  exceedingly  cold,  as  it  had  been  for  a  number  of 
weeks  previously,  and  the  water  in  the  river  coming 
down  from  the  snowy  mountains  of  the  east,  was  as  cold 
as  the  ice  itself. 

As  there  had  been  but  little  rain  during  the  fall,  the 
river  was  not  high,  but  there  are  places  in  it  at  all  stages 
of  the  water,  which  are  very  rapid,  and  it  requires  great 
skill  and  dexterity  to  run  them  in  safety  even  with  an 


124  TOUR    TO    VANCOUVER. 

empty  canoe.  However,  they  proceeded  down  the 
current  about  ten  miles,  without  accident,  Mr.  Eiken 
being  in  the  stern,  and  Mr.  Olley  in  the  bow  of  the 
canoe,  when  they  came  to  one  of  the  fearful  rapids  with 
which  the  river  abounds.  At  this  place  is  a  ledge  of 
rocks  extending  across  the  bed  of  the  stream,  which 
rises  out  of  the  water  in  one  place,  forming  a  small 
island.  The  rapid  commences  a  short  distance  above 
this  ledge,  and  where  the  water  breaks  over  the  rocks  it 
becomes  exceedingly  violent.  Neither  Mr.  Olley  nor 
Eiken  had  ever  passed  up  or  down  this  part  of  the  river, 
consequently  they  were  entirely  ignorant  of  the  dangers 
of  the  place;  but  there  was  no  alternative,  they  were 
already  in  the  strength  of  the  current,  and  to  make  the 
shore  on  either  side  was  impossible.  Consequently  they 
were  carried  with  great  violence  on  the  rocks  about 
fifteen  yards  from  the  little  island,  and  about  forty  yards 
from  the  opposite  shore.  The  bow  of  the  canoe  and  logs 
first  struck  the  rocks,  and  the  stern  swung  so  violently 
down  that  Eiken  was  thrown  clear  from  the  canoe  into 
the  strongest  part  of  the  current.  But,  being  young, 
vigorous  and  active,  he  succeeded  in  making  the  shore 
about  three  hundred  yards  below,  but  he  was  so  much 
exhausted  through  exertion,  and  benumbed  by  the  cold, 
that  when  he  reached  the  shore  he  was  scarcely  able  to 
move;  and  while  struggling  in  the  icy  water  just  before 
reaching  the  place  where  he  could  gain  a  foothold  on  the 
bottom,  he  was  on  the  point  of  yielding  to  the  fury  of 
the  current,  and  giving  himself  up  for  lost.  But  he 
escaped  to  tell  a  more  solemn  tale  concerning  the  fate  of 
his  comrade.  As  soon  as  Eiken  possibly  could,  he  returned 
to  the  place  opposite  where  the  canoe  and  logs  struck, 
and  observed  that  Mr.  Olley,  having  held  fast  to  the  raft, 
and  now  being  on  one  of  the  logs,  was  looking  round  as 
if  to  contrive  what  course  to  pursue. 

He  called  out  to  him  and  inquired,  "what  are  you 
going  to  do]"  Mr.  Olley  made  no  reply.  Probably 
from  the  noise  of  the  water  rushing  over  the  rocks,  he 
did  not  hear  him.  Eiken  thought  he  might  have  been 
bewildered.     He  directly  sat  down  on  the  log  and  pulled 


TOUR    TO    VANCOUVER.  125 

off  his  shoes  and  stockings,  and  threw  them  into  the 
river,  keeping  on  his  pantaloons,  coat  and  cap.  He  then 
deliberately  plunged  himself  into  the  stream,  and  was 
carried  violently  down  the  dashing  current.  Having 
learned  to  swim  in  his  youth,  he  kept  his  head  above  the 
water  for  some  time,  and  appeared  to  be  nearing  the 
shore.  Eiken  pursued  him  down  as  fast  as  he  could, 
but  could  not  keep  up  with  him,  such  was  the  rapidity  of 
the  current.  As  he  was  borne  downward  a  large  log 
which  extended  into  the  stream,  hid  him  from  Eiken's 
view.  Previously  to  this,  his  motion  in  the  water  be- 
came more  irregular,  and  he  appeared  to  have  turned 
himself  on  his  back,  and  to  have  thrown  up  his  hands 
as  in  the  attitude  of  prayer,  or  calling  for  help.  He  had 
then  doubtless  given  up  all  hopes  of  making  the  shore, 
and  was  committing  himself  into  the  hands  of  his  God. 
Be  this  as  it  may,  when  Eiken  succeeded  in  getting 
round  the  log  so  that  he  could  command  a  view  of  the 
river  below,  our  beloved  associate,  friend,  and  father, 
had  passed  forever  from  the  view  of  mortals. 

These  facts  coming  to  my  ears  under  the  circumstan- 
ces already  described,  for  awhile  weighed  down  my 
spirits,  but  a  few  hours  of  refreshing  slumber  after 
midnight,  quieted  my  nerves,  and  the  next  morning  found 
me  prepared  to  resume  my  toils  and  exposures. 

My  visitor  in  camp,  continued  wdth  me  for  a  couple  of 
hours,  and  after  refreshing  himself  from  my  almost  ex- 
hausted stores,  observed  that  he  was  in  a  great  hurry  to 
get  down  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river  to  secure 
a  piece  of  land  which  still  remained  unoccupied,  and  this 
explained  his  running  in  the  night.  He  had  been  in  the 
country  about  two  years,  and  as  there  had  been  many 
reports  in  circulation  concerning  him,  I  resolved  to  avail 
myself  of  the  opportunity  thus  afforded  me  to  obtain 
from  himself  some'  facts  in  relation  to  his  history. 

'*  I  once,  "  said  he,  '^  saw  a  book  which  was  entitled, 
*  The  last  of  the  Mohicans  ; '  but  I  could  tell  the  author 
a  different  story  from  that. "  In  answer  to  my  inquiries, 
I  learned  from  him  the  following  particulars.  He  was 
born   in   New   England,    and  his  father  being  a  white 


126  TOUR  TO  VANCOUVER. 

man,  he  was  therefore  a  proper  yankee.  His  mother 
vi^as  an  Indian  v^oman,  a  relic  of  the  Mohican  tribe,  and 
he  was  therefore  a  Mohican.  He  grew  up  to  manhood 
in  company  with  a  brother  of  his,  received  a  tolerably 
good  English  education,  and  was  known  by  the  name  of 
J.  L.  M.  Cooper.  He  and  his  brother,  sick  of  the  prcr 
judices  existing  against  them  in  their  own  country,  re- 
solved upon  going  to  sea.  They  accordingly  shipped  on 
board  a  trading  vessel  bound  to  the  Pacific,  and  after  a 
voyage  of  several  months,  found  themselves  collecting 
Spanish  hides,  on  the  coast  of  California.  Not  liking  the 
business  very  well,  and  finding  themselves  in  a  country 
where  they  would  like  to  remain,  they  resolved,  when 
the  vessel  was  about  to  leave,  to  desert  her,  and  take  up 
their  residence  in  California.  They  succeeded  in  their 
designs,  but  had  not  been  long  in  the  country  before  J. 
L.  M.  Cooper  found  himself  involved  in  serious  difficul- 
ties with  the  Californians.  He  treated  some  of  them 
roughly,  and  they  accused  him  also  of  using  too  great 
liberties  with  their  property,  particularly  their  horses, 
and  finally  became  so  enraged  against  him  as  to  resolve 
upon  taking  his  life.  There  was  a  Spaniard  in  particular, 
who,  he  believed,  would  take  the  first  opportunity  to 
carry  this  threat  into  execution.  He  accordingly  secre- 
ted himself  in  a  jungle,  where  his  wants  were  supplied 
by  his  friends,  and  where  he  designed  to  wait  until  a 
company  of  trappers  and  hunters  belonging  to  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  then  in  California,  should  start 
aci'oss  the  country  for  the  Columbia  river.  By  joining 
this  company  he  hoped  to  escape  the  vengeance  of  the 
Spaniards.  Betrayed  by  one  in  whom  he  had  placed 
confidence,  he  would  have  lost  his  life  but  for  a  double 
betrayal.  His  place  of  concealment  had  been  discovered 
by  his  determined  foe,  and  the  night  fixed  upon  in  which 
he  was  to  die.  In  his  turn  Cooper's  enemy  was  betrayed, 
and  Cooper  was  informed  that  on  a  certain  night  he  must 
prepare  for  a  deadly  encounter. 

The  night  arrived ;  Cooper  built  a  large  fire  ;  made 
up  the  form  of  a  man  ;  put  his  cap  on  his  head,  and  laid 
it  down  before  the  fire  as  if  to  sleep.     He  had  loaded 


TOUR    TO    VANCOUVER.  12'> 

his  unerring  rifle  during  the  day,  and  examining  it  a  Httle 
by  the  Hght  of  the  fire  to  see  that  the  percussion  cap 
vi^as  in  perfect  order,  he  retreated  a  few  steps  from  the 
fire,  and  hid  himself  in  a  place  he  had  prepared  for  that 
purpose,  in  a  dense  thicket.  At  length  he  heard  the 
stealthy  footsteps  of  the  vengeful  Spaniard,  as  he  cau- 
tiously approached  his  victim,  whom  he  supposed  he  saw 
stretched  in  sleep  before  the  fire.  The  Spaniard  cast 
his  dark  eye  along  his  rifle  several  times,  and  then  would 
venture  a  little  nearer,  to  make  a  surer  aim.  At  length, 
click,  crack,  hang !  went  the  rifle,  and  the  report  seemed 
to  linger  long  amid  the  darkness  of  the  night,  and  three 
balls  had  pierced  the  slumbenng  image  before  the  fire. 
At  this  moment  Cooper  stepped  out  from  his  conceal- 
ment ;  brought  his  rifle  deliberately  to  his  face,  and  the 
report  rising  upon  the  midnight  air,  the  Spaniard  was  in 
eternity.     The  ball  had  pierced  his  heart. 

The  company  of  hunters  were  already  scores  of  miles 
on  their  way  to  Oregon,  and  Cooper,  securing  one  of 
the  best  horses  he  could  find,  perhaps  without  rendering 
an  equivalent,  soon  placed  himself  beyond  the  reach  of 
his  enemies,  on  the  south  side  of  the  Snowy  mountains. 
This  is  Cooper's  version  of  the  story.  Another  is  this  : 
that  he  deliberately  murdered  a  Spaniard  in  a  gambling 
aflfray,  and  then  escaped  from  California  with  the  com- 
pany above  mentioned,  upon  a  stolen  horse.  Be  this  as 
it  may,  the  hour  of  midnight  had  arrived  when  my  Mo- 
hican guest  had  finished  his  story,  and  then  rising  from 
the  ground,  he  buckled  his  belt,  from  which  dangled  a 
large  butcher-knife,  a  little  tighter  around  him,  and 
thanking  me  for  his  supper,  said,  "  I  must  go.  "  Splash, 
splash,  splash,  went  the  oars,  as  he  glided  away  from 
the  shore,  and  was  lost  amidst  the  surrounding  dark- 
ness. 

On  Thursday,  the  14th,  arrived  in  safety  at  "La 
Butte, "  and  landed  our  goods.  I  sent  back  the  Indian 
boys  with  the  canoe  to  the  falls,  to  get  a  load  of  salmon 
and  molasses,  remaining  myself  with  the  goods  over 
night,  and  sleeping  between  two  large  roots  of  a  fir 
tree. 


128  TOUR    TO    VANCOUVER. 

On  Friday,  according  to  arrangement,  a  team  was 
sent  to  meet  me  at  the  Butte  to  receive  the  goods,  and 
a  horse  to  convey  me  home,  where  I  arrived  in  safety 
at  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening,  after  an  absence  of  eight 
days.  Found  my  family  in  good  health,  but  the  neigh- 
borhood wore  a  gloomy  aspect.  One  of  its  prominent 
members,  had,  in  a  most  afflicting  manner,  been  called 
away,  and  all  appeared  to  mourn,  but  not  without  hope. 

Sunday,  17th.  Preached  to  a  number  of  the  mission- 
aries and  settlers,  from  the  words  of  the  Evangelist, 
^'And  beginning  to  sink,  he  cried,  saying.  Lord,  save 
me. " 

On  Monday,  the  18th,  in  company  with  Rev.  Jason 
Lee,  procured  a  canoe,  and  a  number  of  persons  to  assist 
in  rowing  it,  and  about  sundown  started  up  the  river  for 
the  purpose  of  examining  the  place  where  the  sad  catas- 
trophe, before  related,  transpired,  and  of  searching  for 
the  body  of  our  friend  and  brother  Olley.  We  proceeded 
up  the  river  about  two  miles  and  encamped  for  the  night. 
Next  morning  continued  slowly  up  the  strong  current, 
examining  every  nook,  corner,  and  place  where  we  sup- 
posed it  to  be  possible  for  a  body  to  lodge,  and  were 
encouraged  to  believe  that  we  should  succeed  from  find- 
ing one  Mackinaw  blanket,  two  coats,  one  bear-skin,  and 
one  paddle,  all  of  which  belonged  to  Mr.  Eiken.  At 
one  o'clock,  p.  m.,  we  arrived  at  the  place  where  the 
fatal  disaster  occurred,  and  found  that  the  current  con- 
tinued exceedingly  strong  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
below  the  place  where  the  canoe  struck  the  rocks.  The 
river  then  widens  into  a  kind  of  basin,  broad  and  deep, 
and,  judging  from  those  places  where  it  can  be  seen, 
with  a  very  rough  bottom.  We  examined  the  place  as 
minutely  as  possible,  but  no  vestige  of  the  body  could 
be  discovered.  This  was  the  tenth  day  after  the  acci 
dent.  Fatigued  with  the  constant  exertions  of  the  da}-, 
at  dark  we  drew  our  canoe  ashore  ;  cooked  our  supper 
upon  the  shingle  beach,  and  cast  ourselves  down  upon 
our  blankets,  to  rest  for  the  night.  Repeating  our  ex- 
amination the  next  morning,  with  as  little  success  as  the 
day  previous,  we  came  to  the  conclusion,  however  desir- 


TOUR    TO    VANCOUVER.  129 

ous  we  might  be  to  rescue  the  body  of  our  friend  from 
a  wateiy  grave,  it  would  no  more  be  seen  until  that  day 
should  arrive  when  the  seas,  and  the  rivers  also,  shall 
give  up  their  dead.  As  we  descended  the  river  tow^ards 
the  place  of  our  embarkation,  this  passage  of  holy  writ 
cheered  our  otherwise  drooping  spirits  :  '*  If  we  believe 
that  Jesus  died  and  rose  again,  even  so  also  them  which 
sleep  in  Jesus,  will  God  bring  with  him.  " 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Another  tour —  Rock  Island  rapids— The  Jesuit  —  Stormy  encampment  —  Return 
—  Hospitality  —  Story  of  our  host  — Mr.  Cornelius  Rogers  — Party  increase  — 
La  Butte  —  Lonely  Sabbath  —  Arrival  home  —  Mr.  Rogers  and  party  —  Meet- 
ing at  the  hospital  —  Indian  Messenger  —  Sad  tidings  —  Great  bereavement  — 
Esq.  Crocker  —  Call  to  civil  duties  —  Thomas  McKay  —  Great  rain  —  Estate 
of  Mr.  Rogers  —  Retui-n  —  Great  freshet  —  Damages  —  Safe  arrival  home. 

January  16th,  1843.  Left  home  in  company  with  L. 
H.  Judson,  for  the  purpose  of  performing  another  trip  to 
Vancouver.  We  took  a  hght  canoe  belonging  to  Mr. 
Lee,  and  shot  out  of  a  Kttle  cove  w^hich  runs  up  within 
a  half  mile  of  our  house,  into  the  strong  current  of  the 
Wallamette,  and  the  water  being  high,  we  glided  down 
with  great  rapidity,  and  at  seven  o'clock,  p.  m.,  encamped 
on  a  high  bank  on  the  left  hand  side  of  the  river,  having 
run  the  distance  of  forty  miles. 

Tuesday,  the  17th,  being  favored  with  a  good  moon, 
we  started,  at  five  o'clock,  and  at  daylight  run  the  Rock 
Island  rapids  in  safety.  This  place  is  considered  danger- 
ous at  the  present  stage  of  water.  Some  accidents, 
though  not  of  a  very  serious  character,  have  recently 
happened  here.  Not  long  since  a  Jesuit  priest,  by  the 
name  of  Blanchet,  was  passing  up  the  river  in  a  canoe 
manned  with  Indians  and  haff-breeds,  and  loaded  with 
mill-irons,  as  he  was  making  arrangements  to  erect  mills 
in  the  French  settlement  above.  Arriving  at  this  place, 
they  attempted  to  ascend  the  rapids  ;  but  in  doubling  a 
point  of  rocks,  around  which  the  water  rushed  with 
great  violence,  they  were  borne  down  with  fearful  force 
to  where  they  were  in  danger  of  being  drawn  under  an 
immense  raft,  lying  in  the  river.  They  struggled  in  vain 
to  govern  their  canoe,  and  being  greatly  alarmed,  in  their 
eagerness  to  secure  it,  it  was  capsized,  emptying  them- 


TOUR    TO    VANCOUVER.  131 

selves,  mill-irons,  and  all  into  the  river.  Some  of  them 
struggled  long  in  the  water,  but  finally  succeeded,  some 
one  v^^ay,  and  some  another,  in  getting  safe  to  land, 
happy  in  the  consideration  that  the  loss  they  had  sus- 
tained could  possibly  be  repaired.  Though  the  follow^ers 
of  the  ''  Padre "  w^ere  sanguine  in  the  belief  that  he 
possessed  the  powder  of  working  miracles,  yet  he  has 
never  been  able  to  raise  his  mill-irons  from  the  bottom 
of  Rock  Island  channel. 

Proceeded  on  our  journey,  and  at  sunrise  arrived  at 
the  falls,  and  took  breakfast  with  our  good  friend,  George 
Abernethy,  Esq.  At  eleven  o'clock,  continued  our  voy- 
age, though  with  the  prospect  of  bad  weather.  At 
twelve  it  became  quite  cold,  and  began  to  rain  and  hail. 
It  continued  storming  without  intermission,  during  the 
afternoon.  This  rendered  it  extremely  disagreeable 
traveling,  but  there  was  no  alternative  ;  so  we  continued 
to  ply  the  paddle,  though  iced  with  the  falHng  sleet,  until 
it  began  to  grow  dusk.  Arriving  at  a  small  promontory 
covered  with  fir  timber,  twenty  miles  below  the  falls, 
we  landed,  and  commenced  making  preparations  for  a 
stormy  night.  We  were  thoroughly  drenched  with  rain, 
though,  as  good  luck  would  have  it,  we  had  preserved 
our  fire-works  from  getting  wet.  The  storm  beat  upon 
us  with  violence,  but  we  were  twenty  miles  distant  from 
human  habitation,  and  had  no  choice  ;  we  must  prepare 
to  make  ourselves  as  comfortable  as  possible  during  the 
night,  though  our  prospects  were  exceedingly  gloomy. 
The  first  thing  to  be  done  was  to  kindle  a  fire,  no  desir- 
able task  when  every  thing  is  as  wet  as  rain  can  make  it. 
However,  selecting  a  place  at  the  leeward  of  two  large 
firs,  that  we  might  be  the  more  sheltered  from  the  wind 
and  storm,  after  about  half  an  hour,  and  when  patience 
had  performed  ''her  perfect  work,"  we  succeeded  in 
kindhng  a  small  blaze,  which  by  extreme  care  we  soon 
increased  to  a  comfortable  fire. 

Having  prepared  our  evening's  repast,  we  partook  of 
it  with  a  keen  relish,  while  the  large  drops  from  the 
spreading  branches  of  the  fir-trees,  as  they  were  shaken 
with  the  wind,  fell  in  showers  upon  us. 


132  TOUR  TO  VANCOUVER. 

Supper  being  over,  we  managed  partially  to  dry  our 
blankets  and  skins,  and  spreading  them  upon  the  wet 
ground,  v^e  lay  ourselves  to  rest.  I  spread  an  umbrella 
over  my  head  to  shelter  it  from  the  large  drops  from  the 
trees  and  the  rain  and  sleet  from  the  clouds,  and,  de- 
spite the  storm,  slept  soundly  until  six  o'clock  in  the 
morning. 

Next  day  proceeded  on  to  Fort  Vancouver,  and  the 
following  day  accomplished  our  business  and  prepared 
to  return. 

Thursday,  19th.  Left  Vancouver  in  the  morning,  and 
after  a  day  of  hard  toiling  in  a  continued  storm  of  snow^ 
and  rain,  arrived,  late  in  the  evening,  at  the  house  of 
Richard  McCary,  about  five  miles  below^  the  Wallamette 
falls.  The  night  was  excessively  cold  and  stormy,  and 
we  were  pleased  to  be  sheltered  beneath  a  friendly  roof. 
Our  host  had  spent  the  prime  of  his  life  in  ranging  the 
Rocky  mountains,  as  a  hunter  and  trapper,  and  enter- 
tained us  with  anecdotes  of  his  hair-breadth  escapes 
from  the  the  hostile  Sioux  and  Blackfeet.  At  one  time, 
he,  with  seven  other  Americans,  ventured  far  from  the 
general  rendezvous  of  the  hunters,  in  the  country  of 
the  Blackfeet,  for  the  purpose  of  trapping  beaver.  The 
country  was  entirely  destitute  of  timber,  except  here 
and  there  a  small  bunch  of  bushes,  which  grew  in  the 
swails.  They  pitched  their  tent  on  the  banks  of  a  small 
rivulet,  on  the  open  prairie,  within  a  little  distance  of 
one  of  these  thickets  ;  designing,  if  they  were  attacked 
by  the  Blackfeet,  to  retreat  to  the  thicket,  and  there  de- 
fend themselves  and  protect  their  property. 

One  morning,  as  they  went  down  to  the  stream  to 
examine  their  traps,  McCary  being  in  advance  of  the 
rest  of  the  party,  a  troop  of  Blackfeet  warriors  came 
dashing  over  a  rise  of  ground,  but  a  short  distance  in 
front  of  them,  numbering,  as  they  supposed,  two  or  three 
hundred.  As  the  Americans  wheeled  and  ran  towards 
their  tent,  the  Blackfeet  poured  a  volley  of  musket  balls 
after  them.  McCary  fell  upon  his  face  to  the  ground  ; 
a  ball  had  entered  the  back  side  of  his  neck,  and  come 
out  at  one  of  his  cheeks.     No  bone   being  broken,   he 


TOUR    TO    VANCOUVER.  133 

soon  recovered  his  senses,  but  as  he  could  not  instantly 
move,  he  expected  to  feel  the  scalping  knife  passing  over 
his  skull  bone  ;  but  the  Indians  w^ere  kept  at  bay  by  his 
seven  comrades,  w^ho,  by  this  time,  had  secured  their 
rifles  and  ammunition.  Firing  a  round  or  tv^o,  and  see- 
ing some  of  the  Indians  fall,  to  their  astonishment  they 
saw  McCary,  w^hom  they  supposed  to  have  been  shot 
dead,  rushing  towards  them  to  join  them  in  their  retreat 
to  the  thicket. 

Here  they  continued  the  fight,  the  Indians  with  great 
bravery  venturing  up  very  near  the  thicket ;  but  their 
musket  balls  and  poisoned  arrows  took  effect  only  upon 
the  bushes  and  logs  which  formed  the  fort  of  the  Ameri- 
cans; while  the  latter  scarcely  discharged  a  rifle  but 
that  an  Indian  was  seen  to  lick  the  dust.  The  Blackfeet 
finding  that  they  could  not  destroy  the  Americans  with- 
out losing  too  many  of  their  men,  gave  up  the  contest ; 
and  after  securing  their  dead  and  wounded,  and  taking 
the  property  of  the  Americans,  consisting  of  their  tent, 
blankets,  furs,  traps  and  horses,  they  gave  the  shrill  war 
whoop,  and  disappeared.  After  dressing  McCary's 
wound  as  well  as  circumstances  would  admit,  the  trap- 
pers turned  their  faces  back  towards  the  rendezvous, 
where,  after  many  days  of  suffering,  they  all  arrived  in 
safety.  McCary,  not  reUshing  such  adventures,  and 
fearing  that  the  next  bullet  might  not  be  so  merciful  as 
to  shun  the  vital  organs,  resolved  to  leave  his  dangerous 
business  ;  and  marrying  a  Nez  Perse,  he  abandoned  the 
Rocky  mountains  forever. 

Our  entertainment  with  this  story  far  exceeded  the 
refreshment  we  received  the  remaining  part  of  the  night, 
by  sleeping  on  the  bare  floor. 

Next  morning  proceeded  to  the  falls,  where  we  con- 
tinued during  the  day. 

Saturday,  21st.  licft  the  falls  at  twelve,  m.,  in  com- 
pany with  two  other  canoes,  and  arrived  at  "  La  Butte  " 
one  hour  after  dark,  cold,  hungry,  and  worn  out  with 
fatigue.  Mr.  Cornelius  Rogers  was  in  one  of  the  canoes, 
on  his  way  up  to  the  settlement  to  get  his  wife  and  her 
sister,  a  little  girl  two  years  of  age.     Mr.  Rogers  had 


134  TOUR  TO  VANCOUVER 

entered  into  business  at  the  falls,  and  having  been  mar- 
ried but  a  tew  months,  had  not  yet  commenced  keeping 
house.  Moving  up  and  dow^n  the  river  is,  for  the  w^ant 
of  other  means,  done  in  canoes,  alw^ays  a  dangerous 
mode  of  traveling.  The  three  canoes  contained  about 
tw^enty  persons,  and  all  slept  at  the  "  Butte;"  and  though 
the  night  v^^as  cold,  many  lay  upon  the  ground  w^ithout 
covering. 

On  Sunday  morning,  the  22nd,  Mr.  Judson  and  Mr. 
Rogers,  being  entirely  out  of  provisions,  left  camp  on 
foot,  and  proceeded  to  the  mission,  where  they  arrived 
in  the  evening,  hungry  and  nearly  exhausted.  Having 
a  fevi^  remnants  of  food  left,  I  resolved  to  remain  in  camp 
during  the  Sabbath;  and,  to  make  myself  as  comfortable 
as  possible,  I  collected  a  quantity  of  v^ood  and  bark,  and 
building  a  large  fire  under  the  lee  of  the  lofty  furs  that 
line  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  being  left  entirely  alone, 
spent  the  day  in  reading  and  meditation.  Sunday  night 
there  v^as  quite  a  fall  of  rain  and  sleet,  and  though  I 
slept  alone  in  the  forest,  and  in  the  morning  found  that 
ice  had  collected  in  my  hair,  yet,  by  the  blessing  of 
Providence,  I  received  no  injury.  At  five  o'clock  on 
Monday  morning,  I  left  the  ''Butte"  for  my  place  of 
residence,  where  I  arrived  at  noon,  having  traveled  the 
distance  of  twenty-five  miles. 

On  Thursday,  the  2nd  day  of  February,  Mr.  Cornehus 
Rogers  left  the  settlement  with  his  family,  consisting 
of  his  wife  and  her  little  sister,  to  remove  to  the  falls, 
where  he  expected  to  settle.  Wm.  W.  Raymond,  a 
member  of  the  Oregon  mission,  residing  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Columbia  river,  had  come  up  with  the  large  mission 
canoe  that  would  carry  about  three  tons,  for  the  purpose 
of  taking  back  supplies  for  the  station;  and  not  having 
enough  to  load  the  canoe  himself,  he  proposed  to  take 
Mr.  Rogers  and  his  effects  down  to  the  falls.  Mr. 
Rogers  gladly  accepted  of  the  offer;  and  as  Dr.  Elijah 
White,  sub-agent  of  Indian  Affairs  in  Oregon,  and  Esq. 
Crocker,  late  of  Lansingville,  Tompkins  Co.,  N.  Y.,  were 
desirous  of  visiting  Clatsop,  they  had  obtained  the  privi- 
lege of  accompanying  Mr.  Raymond  down  the  Columbia 


TOUR    TO    VANCOUVER.  135 

river.  These  all  repaired  to  the  river's  side,  apparently 
in  high  spirits;  embarked  on  the  ill-fated  craft;  the 
Indians  plied  their  paddles  dexterously,  and  they  glided 
away  from  the  sight  of  their  friends  on  the  shore,  upon 
the  smooth  surface  of  the  treacherous  element 

Sunday,  Feb.  5th.  I  preached  at  the  Hospital  to  a  few^ 
of  the  missionaries,  some  of  whom  had  been  the  subjects 
of  severe  affliction  for  a  great  share  of  the  time  since 
they  had  been  in  the  country.  I  endeavored  to  encour- 
age them  from  the  words  of  St.  Peter,  ''  Think  it  not 
strange  concerning  the  fiery  trial  which  is  to  try  you, 
as  though  some  strange  thing  happened  unto  you, 
but  rejoice,  inasmuch  as  ye  are  partakers  of  Christ's 
sufferings."  The  sufferings  incident  to  our  residence  in 
a  heathen  land,  and  the  disposition  w4th  which  we  should 
bear  them,  were  the  subjects  of  the  discourse. 

The  services  had  just  been  brought  to  a  close,  and  I 
was  about  taking  my  leave  to  return  to  my  family,  ten 
miles  up  the  river,  w^hen  an  Indian,  almost  exhausted 
with  running,  came  into  Dr.  Babcock's,  where  I  had 
stopped  a  few  moments,  bearing  a  small  package  of  let- 
ters. The  running  of  the  Indian,  the  number  of  letters, 
the  season  of  the  year,  and  the  storminess  of  the  day, 
all  conspired  to  excite  our  fears,  and  create  a  presenti- 
ment within  us,  that  some  unusual  occurrence  had  taken 
place.  I  broke  the  seal  of  my  letter  from  George 
Abernethy  at  the  falls,  and,  most  shocking  to  relate,  the 
first  words  that  met  my  eye  were  as  follows  : 
"  Dear  Brother  : — 

I  have  barely  time  to  say  that  the  mission  canoe 
went  over  the  falls  yesterday  evening  with  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Rogers,  Aurelia,  and  'Squire  Crocker  and  two 
Indians.  We  started  immediately  out  with  the  mission 
boat,  and  reached  within  thirty  yards  of  Mr.  Rogers 
before  he  sank  to  rise  no  more." 

It  appears  that  they  proceeded  from  the  place  of  em- 
barkation in  safety,  until  they  arrived  at  the  head  of  the 
rapids,  above  the  cataract.  Here  they  all  got  out  of  the 
canoe,  which  they  let  down  the  rapids  by  a  rope,  and 
proceeded  on  foot  down  to  a  bluff  rock  which  projects 


136  TOUR  TO  VANCOUVER, 

out  into  the  stream,  and  is  but  a  few  steps  from  the  place 
of  landing.  Here  they  ail  got  into  the  canoe  again 
except  Mr.  Raymond  and  three  Indians,  who  remained 
on  shore,  for  the  purpose  of  holding  on  to  the  rope  which 
was  fastened  to  the  canoe  to  enable  them  to  drop  below 
the  point  of  rocks  in  safety.  They  passed  the  point,  and 
brought  the  canoe  along  side  of  a  large  log  which  the 
high  water  had  carried  in  along  the  shore,  and  which 
was  used  as  a  kind  of  wharf.  The  instant  the  canoe 
struck  the  log,  Dr.  White  stepped  one  foot  on  it,  and 
leaning  towards  the  shore,  held  on  to  the  canoe  with  the 
other  foot,  but  before  another  one  could  step  on  the  log 
the  current  took  the  bow  of  the  canoe,  which  was  up  the 
stream,  and  in  an  instant  they  were  drawn  into  the 
strongest  part  of  the  current.  Mr.  Raymond  and  the 
Indians  exerted  themselves  in  vain  to  hold  on  to  the  rope; 
they  were  drawn  into  the  river,  and  forced  to  let  go,  to 
save  themselves.  All  efforts  were  vain,  all  hope  was 
lost.  At  this  perilous  moment  two  Indians  sprang  from 
the  canoe,  and  darted  like  lightning  through  the  rushing 
flood,  and  gained  the  shore.  As  the  canoe  approached 
the  awful  verge,  Mr.  Rogers  threw  himself  upon  his 
knees  before  his  wife,  who  remained  in  her  seat,  holding 
her  little  sister  in  her  lap.  For  a  moment  all  was  still 
except  the  rushing  waters,  then  a  wail  was  heard  above 
the  roar  of  the  angry  flood — they  had  made  the  fatal 
plunge.  Some  of  their  bodies  were  seen  a  short  time, 
floating  below  the  falls,  but  before  they  could  possibly 
be  approached  with  a  boat,  they  had  all  sunk  into  their 
watery  graves.  Thus  terminated  the  mortal  career  of 
Esq.  Crocker,  Cornelius  Rogers,  his  wife  and  her  Httle 
sister,  and  two  Indians.  The  remains  of  the  first  two 
were  subsequently  recovered,  and  committed  to  the 
earth;  the  others  have  never  been  found.  If  by  some 
awful  convulsion  in  nature  the  whole  city  of  New  York 
were  to  be  submerged  beneath  the  waves  of  the  Atlantic 
ocean,  the  shock  to  the  State  could  not  be  greater  than 
was  felt  in  the  colony  of  Oregon,  when  the  mission 
canoe,  with  her  precious  cargo,  went  over  the  falls. 
This    awful    dispensation   of   Providence    wrapped    the 


TOUR    TO    VANCOUVER.  137 

whole  country  in  gloom,  and  indeed  there  v^^ere  many 
circumstances  which  combined  to  render  it  truly  afflicting. 
Mr.  Rogers  had  formerly  been  a  member  of  the 
Presbyterian  mission  in  the  upper  country,  and  was  re- 
garded as  a  very  efficient  missionary  ;  but  becoming 
discouraged  with  the  prospect  there,  he  had  asked  and 
obtained  a  discharge  from  the  mission,  and  for  some  time 
had  made  it  his  home  in  the  Wallamette  settlement.  He 
had  adopted  Oregon  as  a  place  of  permanent  abode,  and 
consequently  asked  and  obtained  the  hand  of  Satira  Les- 
lie, eldest  daughter  of  Rev.  David  Leslie,  though  she 
was  but  fifteen  years  of  age.  When  Mr.  Leslie  took 
his  departure  from  the  country  to  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
and  perhaps  to  the  United  States,  the  September  pre- 
vious, Mr.  Rogers  accompanied  him  down  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia  river,  in  the  brig  Chenamus,  Mr.  LesHe 
having  with  him  his  entire  family.  It  consisted  of  five 
interesting  girls,  he  having  buried  his  wife  but  a  short 
time  before.  When  the  vessel  was  about  ready  to  sail^ 
and  bear  Mr.  Leslie  and  two  of  his  daughters  away,  the 
marriage  of  Mr.  Rogers  with  Satira  was  duly  solemnized 
on  board  the  ship,  as  she  lay  at  anchor  in  Baker's  Bay. 
Dr.  J.  P.  Richmond  officiated  on  the  occasion.  It  was 
arranged  that  Mr.  Rogers  and  his  wife  would  take  back 
to  the  Wallamette  the  two  youngest  daughters  of  Mr. 
Leslie,  and  take  care  of  them  until  Mr.  Leslie  could 
provide  for  them  in  some  other  way,  while  the  remaining 
two  were  to  accompany  their  father  to  the  Islands,  and 
perhaps  to  the  States.  Accordingly,  they  thus  separated 
in  Baker's  Bay,  about  the  1st  of  September,  1842,  fondly 
indulging  the  expectation  that,  after  a  separation  of  a 
few  months,  or  years  at  most,  they  would  again  meet, 
and  spend  many  happy  years  in  each  others'  society. 
But  an  inscrutable  Providence  ordered  it  otherwise. 

From  the  time  that  Mr.  Rogers  returned  with  his 
important  charge  from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river, 
to  the  period  of  the  fatal  voyage  down  the  Wallamette, 
he  had  been  variously,  though  usefully  employed ;  and 
desiging  to  spend  his  days  in  Oregon,  his  feelings  and 
interests  were  bound  up  in  the  country.     He  was  justly 


138  TOUR    TO    VANCOUVER. 

regarded  as  one  of  the  most  useful  men  it  contained,  and 
consequently  his  sudden  removal  was  considered  as  a 
great  loss  to  the  rising  settlement.  His  young  and 
blooming  companion  was  not  only  every  way  worthy  of 
her  husband,  but  the  darling  of  a  fond  and  doting  parent, 
and  beloved  by  all  that  knew  her.  She  was  at  my  house 
but  a  short  time  previous  to  her  leaving  the  settlement 
to  attend  her  husband  to  the  falls,  and  informed  us  that 
she  designed  to  take  her  youngest  sister,  AureHa,  a  child 
two  years  old,  with  her,  and  leave  the  other,  Helen, 
four  years  old,  with  Mrs.  Gray.  But  for  this  arrange- 
ment, all  three  would  have  gone  together  ;  but  Helen 
lived  to  bear  to  her  afflicted  parent  the  melancholy 
tidmgs  of  the  awful  death  of  his  eldest  and  youngest 
daughters. 

Esquire  Crocker  had  been  in  the  country  but  a  short 
time.  He  performed  the  journey  across  the  mountains 
for  the  benefit  of  his  health.  Liking  the  country  better 
than  he  anticipated,  he  had  come  to  the  conclusion  to 
send  for  his  family  and  establish  himself  in  Oregon  ;  but 
by  one  stroke  of  Providence  his  designs  were  forever 
frustrated. 

Having  been  appointed  by  the  authorities  of  the  coun- 
try to  secure  and  appraise  the  property  of  the  late  Mr. 
CorneHus  Rogers,  the  principal  part  of  which  was  at  the 
falls,  I  started  for  that  place  on  the  9th  of  February,  in 
company  with  Mr.  W.  H.  Gray.  Traveled  ten  miles, 
and  stopped  at  Dr.  Babcock's,  who  was  the  Judge  of 
Probate,  to  get  our  instructions,  and  continued  with  him 
during  the  night.  Next  morning  at  daylight,  proceeded 
on  horseback  towards  Champoeg,  but  as  there  had  been 
a  fall  of  snow  the  day  previous,  and  the  rain  was  then 
falling  in  torrents,  it  was  almost  impossible  to  make 
headway. 

As  we  urged  our  way  along,  we  found  the  streams 
and  ravines  so  swollen,  that  the  few  bridges  that  had 
been  made,  were  either  carried  away  or  afloat.  How- 
ever, by  fording  some  of  the  streams  where  the  water 
covered  the  saddles,  and  swimming  others  which  were 
not  fordable,  we  succeeded  in  getting  to  Champoeg,  the 


TOUR    TO    VANCOUVER,  139 

distance  of  sixteen  miles,  at  one  o'clock,  p.  m.,  thoroughly 
drenched.  As  it  continued  to  rain  violently  during  the 
afternoon,  we  concluded  to  stop  until  morning. 

Spent  the  night  in  a  house  or  hut  occupied  by  Charles 
Roe,  an  American,  who  was  absent  with  his  family  from 
home.  The  w^ife  of  this  man  is  the  daughter  of  Thomas 
McKay,  who  was  the  son  of  the  unfortunate  man  of  the 
same  name,  who  perished  on  the  Tonquin,  when  she  was 
blown  up  on  the  north-west  coast.  Her  mother  is  a 
woman  of  the  Nez  Perce  tribe.  She  is  the  sister  of  the 
three  McKay  boys  who  accompanied  the  Rev.  Jason 
Lee  from  Oregon  to  the  United  States,  in  1838.  Her 
father  has  recently  discarded  the  old  Nez  Perce  woman, 
her  mother,  to  whom  he  was  never  formally  married, 
except  after  the  Indian  custom,  and  taken  to  himself  a 
young  half-breed,  w^ho  becomes  his  lawful  wife  under 
the  sanction  of  a  Roman  Catholic  priest. 

Rested  as  well  as  we  could  during  the  night  on  a 
naked  plank,  rose  early  in  the  morning,  the  rain  pouring 
down  with  increasing  violence.  But  our  commission 
was  one  of  urgency,  so,  turning  horses  loose  upon  the 
prairie,  and  borrowing  a  canoe,  we  struck  out  into  the 
dashing  current  of  the  Wallamette.  Already  the  banks 
of  the  river  were  full,  and  the  rapidly  increasing  flood 
was  rolling  onw^ard  wi.th  fearful  fury  towards  the  Pacific, 
bearing  upon  its  bosom  immense  quantities  of  floodwood, 
ever  and  anon  undermining  a  large  tree  upon  the  shore, 
which  would  fall  with  a  tremendous  crash  into  the  roar- 
ing flood;  but  keeping  our  cockle-shell  craft  in  the  centre 
of  the  stream,  and  carefully  avoiding  coming  in  contact 
with  the  numerous  logs  floating  upon  its  surface,  we 
proceeded  down  the  distance  of  ten  miles  in  about  one 
hour.  Fearing  to  attempt  to  run  the  dangerous  rapids 
of  Rock  Island,  we  rowed  our  canoe  into  a  little  eddy 
some  distance  above,  and  fastened  it  to  some  trees.  We 
then  took  our  baggage  on  our  backs,  and  proceeded  on 
foot  towards  the  falls,  distant  eight  miles.  A  number 
of  streams  crossed  our  path,  but  passing  some  on  logs, 
and  wading  through  others,  we  arrived  there  at  three 
o'clock,   p.   M. 


140  TOUR    TO    VANCOUVER. 

Sunday,  13th.  I  preached  to  about  twenty  Americans 
of  different  ages,  from  the  invitation  of  Christ  to  those 
who  labor  and  are  heavy  laden,  and  rejoiced  in  the  con- 
sideration that  there  is  rest  in  Christ. 

Monday,  14th.  Attended  to  the  duties  imposed  upon 
me  in  relation  to  Mr.  Rogers'  estate,  in  conne^xion  with 
W.  H.  Gray  and  Robert  Shortess.  Found  the  estate  to 
be  worth  fifteen  hundred  dollars,  and  the  liabilities  to 
amount  to  seven  hundred.  Ascertained  that  the  heirs 
of  Mr.  Rogers  reside  in  Utica,  State  of  New  York. 

Tuesday,  15th.  Having  accomplished  our  business, 
we  left  the  falls  at  two,  p.  m.,  and  returned  to  our  canoe, 
where  we  encamped  for  the  night.  The  river  had  con- 
tinued to  rise  until  it  was  higher  than  it  had  been  known 
for  thirty  years,  and  we  knew  it  would  be  almost  impos- 
sible to  ascend  with  our  canoe,  yet  there  was  no  alter- 
native. The  banks  were  overflown,  and  we  were  obliged 
to  pull  ourselves  up  the  river  by  the  bushes  and  trees  on 
the  shore,  as,  the  moment  our  canoe  was  outside  the 
the  bushes,  in  spite  of  the  combined  strength  of  six  men 
with  their  paddles,  she  would  run  astern.  Toiling  for 
seven  hours,  without  cessation,  except  to  take  two  rac- 
coons out  of  a  hollow  tree,  where  they  had  been  driven 
by  the  flood,  we  found  that  we  had  ascended  three  miles 
only,  and  being  above  the  mouth  of  Pudding  river,  we 
concluded  to  ^'cache^^  our  canoe  in  the  bushes,  and  try 
the  rest  of  the  way  on  foot. 

We  found  ourselves  in  a  dense  forest,  but  striking  a 
bee  line  towards  the  south-east,  after  traveling  some 
miles  we  struck  the  trail  leading  from  the  settlement  to 
the  falls,  and  at  dark  arrived  at  the  house  of  a  French- 
man near  the  Butte,  and  about  three  miles  below  Cham- 
poeg. 

Having  no  provision,  I  procured  of  the  Frenchman  a 
supper  of  fried  venison,  and  a  cup  of  tea,  for  which, 
with  the  privilege  of  furnishing  a  supper  for  ten  thousand 
fleas,  he  charged  me  one  dollar.  It  was  the  first  bill  of 
the  kind  I  paid  in  Oregon,  the  people  generally  being 
quite  hospitable. 

Next  morning  procceeded  to  Champoeg  and  found  our 


TOUR    TO    VANCOUVER.  141 

trusty  horses  not  far  from  w^here  we  turned  them  loose. 
The  water  had  risen  to  an  amazing  height ;  farms  were 
swept  of  their  fences,  and  farmers  suffered  heavy  losses 
in  grain,  the  water  rising  several  feet  deep  in  some  of 
their  barns.  Thomas  McKay  had  recently  buil^  a  large 
grist  mill,  and  an  old  gentlemen  by  the  name  of  Canning 
was  tending  the  mill.  In  the  morning  when  he  awoke, 
as  he  slept  in  the  mill,  in  the  second  story,  the  mill  was 
standing  in  the  centre  of  a  large  lake.  Some  persons  at 
a  distance,  supposing  that  Canning  must  be  in  a  perilous 
condition,  procured  a  canoe,  and  sailing  high  over  fields, 
fences,  logs,  &c.,  soon  arrived  at  the  mill,  and  running 
their  canoe  into  the  window  of  the  second  story,  found 
Canning  perched  upon  a  high  box,  in  one  corner  of  the 
mill,  awaiting  some  one  to  rescue  him  from  his  danger. 
No  essential  damage  was  done  the  mill,  but  several  hun- 
dred bushels  of  wheat  were  lost.  The  flood  coming  so 
suddenly  upon  the  valley,  the  herds  on  the  bottom  lands 
had  not  time  to  make  their  escape.  Horses,  cattle,  hogs, 
&c.,  were  swept  away  and  drowned. 

This  was  a  high  flood,  but  from  the  appearance  of  the 
country,  I  am  persuaded  that  it  is  subject  to  still  greater 
inundations. 

Recovering  our  horses,  we  left  Champoeg  in  the  after- 
noon, and  arrived  at  our  homes  the  following  evening, 
relieving  our  families  from  the  painful  anxiety  into  which 
they  had  been  thrown  for  our  safety  in  consequence  of 
our  exposure  to  the  flood. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Panic  —  Indian  troubles  —  Tour  to  the  Interior  —  Causes  —  Precautions  —  Excitement 
increases  — Mr.  Brewer's  letter  — The  Sub- Agent  —  Expedition  resolved  upon  — 
Opposed  by  Dr.  McLaughlin  —  Departure  —  A  squall  — Ascent  of  the  Columbia 
—  Mount  Hood  —  Romantic  scenery  —  Sabbath  encampment  —  Reflections  — 
Remarkable  rocks  —  Cascades  —  How  formed  —  Indian  tradition  confirmed  — 
La  Dallas  —  Canasissa  — Negotiation  — De  Shutes  —  John  Day  —  Sabbath  Re- 
flections—Arrival at  Dr.  Whitman's  —  Interview  with  the  Kayuse  chiefs  — 
Excursion  — Adventure  of  Mr.  Perkins  —  Party  proceeds  —  Snake  river  — Red 
wolf— Laperai  —  Accident  —  Grotesque  exhibition  —  Temperance  training  — 
Rev.  Mr.  and  Mrs,  Spaulding  —  Return  to  Dr.  Whitman's  —  Interesting  negotia- 
tion—Closing feast  —  Homeward  —  Story  of  the  Waila-Walla  chief  — Peter 
Ogden  —  Arrival  home. 

April  14.  This  settlement  has  been  thrown  into  a  panic 
by  intelligence  which  has  just  been  received  from  the 
upper  country,  concerning  the  hostile  intentions  of  the 
Kayuse,  Nez  Perce,  and  Walla- Walla  Indians.  It  appears 
that  they  have  again  threatened  the  destruction  of  the 
whites.  Some  time  in  October  last,  Indian  report  said 
that  these  tribes  were  coming  down  to  kill  off  the  Boston 
people,  meaning  those  from  the  United  States.  This 
intelligence  produced  considerable  excitement  at  the 
time,  and  induced  the  sub-agent  of  Indian  Affairs  to  go 
directly  to  the  upper  country  and  ascertain  the  truth  of 
the  report,  and  if  possible  settle  all  matters  of  difficulty. 
On  arriving  among  the  Indians,  he  ascertained  that  the 
report  was  not  without  foundation  ;  but  entered  into  such 
arrangements  with  them  as  appeared  to  give  satisfaction. 
Thonias  McKay  contributed  much  to  allay  the  excite- 
ment among  them,  and  in  connexion  with  the  sub-agent, 
induced  the  Nez  Perces  to  adopt  a  code  of  laws,  and 
appoint  a  head  chief  and  inferior  chiefs,  sufficient  to 
carry  the  laws  into  execution.  It  had  been  the  policy  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  to  destroy  the  chieftainship, 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  143 

cut  .the  different  tribes  into  smaller  clans,  and  divide 
their  interests  as  far  as  posssible  so  as  to  weaken  them, 
and  render  them  incapable  of  injuring  the  whites,  by  pre- 
venting them  from  acting  in  concert.  But  the  sub-agent 
adopted  a  different  policy.  ,  The  individual  appointed  to 
the  high  chieftainship  over  the  Nez  Perces,  was  one 
Ellis,  as  he  was  called  by  the  English,  who,  having  spent 
several  years  in  the  settlement  on  the  Red  river,  east 
of  the  mountains,  had,  with  a  smattering  of  the  English 
language,  acquired  a  high  sense  of  his  own  importance  ; 
and  consequently,  after  he  was  appointed  chief,  pursued 
a  very  haughty  and  overbearing  course.  The  fulfillment 
of  the  laws  which  the  agent  recommended  for  their 
adoption,  was  required  by  Ellis  with  the  utmost  rigor. 
Individuals  were  severely  punished  for  crimes  which, 
from  time  immemorial,  had  been  committed  by  the 
people  with  impunity.  This  occasioned  suspicions  in 
the  minds  of  the  Indians  generally,  that  the  whites  de- 
signed the  ultimate  subjugation  of  their  tribes.  They 
saw  in  the  laws  they  had  adopted,  a  deep-laid  scheme  of 
the  whites  to  destroy  them,  and  take  possession  of  their 
country.  The  arrival  of  a  large  party  of  emigrants 
about  this  time,  and  the  sudden  departure  of  Dr.  Whit- 
man to  the  United  States,  with  the  avowed  intention 
of  bringing  back  with  him  as  many  as  he  could  enhst  for 
Oregon,  served  to  hasten  them  to  the  above  conclusion. 
That  a  great  excitement  existed  among  the  Indians  in 
the  interior,  and  that  they  designed  to  make  war  upon 
the  settlement,  was  only  known  to  the  whites  through 
the  medium  of  vague  report,  until  a  letter  was  received 
from  H.  K.  W.  Perkins,  at  the  Dalls,  in  which  he  informed 
us  that  the  Wascopam  and  Walla- Walla  Indians  had 
communicated  to  him  in  substance  the  following  inform- 
ation :  that  the  Indians  are  very  much  exasperated 
against  the  whites  in  consequence  of  so  many  of  the 
latter  coming  into  the  country,  to  destroy  their  game, 
and  take  away  their  lands  ;  that  the  Nez  Perces  dis- 
patched one  of  their  chiefs  last  winter  on  snow  shoes,  to 
visit  the  Indians  in  the  buffalo  country  east  of  Fort  Hall, 
for  the  purpose  of  exciting  them  to  cut  off  the  party 


144  TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR. 

that  it  is  expected  Dr.  Whitman  will  bring  back  with 
him  to  settle  the  Nez  Perce  country  ;  that  the  Indians 
are  endeavoring  to  form  a  general  coalition  for  the  pur- 
pose of  destroying  all  the  Boston  people  :  that  it  is  not 
good  to  kill  a  part  of  them,  and  leave  the  rest,  but  that 
every  one  of  them  must  be  destroyed.  This  information 
produced  a  great  excitement  throughout  the  community, 
and  almost  every  man  had  a  plan  of  his  own  by  which 
to  avert  the  impending  storm.  In  the  estimation  of  some, 
the  Indians  were  to  be  upon  us  immediately,  and  it  was 
unsafe  to  retire  at  night,  for  fear  the  settlement  would 
be  attacked  before  morning.  The  plan  of  the  agent  was 
to  induce  men  to  pledge  themselves,  under  the  forfeiture 
of  one  hundred  dollars  in  case  of  dehnquency,  to  keep 
constantly  on  hand,  and  ready  for  use,  either  a  good 
musket  or  a  rifle,  and  one  hundred  charges  of  ammuni- 
tion, and  to  hold  themselves  in  readiness  to  go  at  the  call 
of  the  agent  to  any  part  of  the  country,  not  to  exceed 
two  days  travel,  for  the  purpose  of  defending  the  settle- 
ment, and  repelling  any  savage  invaders.  This  plan 
pleased  some  of  the  people,  and  they  put  down  their 
names  ;  but  many  were  much  dissatisfied  with  it,  and 
as  we  had  no  authority,  no  law,  no  order,  for  the  time 
being,  in  the  country,  it  was  impossible  to  tell  what 
would  be  the  result,  if  the  Indians  should  attempt  to 
carry  their  threats  into  execution. 

April  14th.  Information  was  brought  to  the  settle- 
ment from  the  Klackamas  tribe  of  Indians,  who  live  three 
miles  below  the  falls  of  the  Wallamette,  which  served  to 
increase  the  excitement  occasioned  by  the  reports  fi'om 
the  interior.  It  appears  that  an  Indian  of  the  Molala 
tribe,  connected  with  the  Klackamas  Indians  by  marriage, 
stole  a  horse  from  a  man  by  the  name  of  Anderson,  and 
when  asked  by  the  latter  if  he  had  stolen  his  horse  and 
rode  him  off,  answered,  "  Yes,  I  stole  your  horse,  and 
when  I  want  another  one  I  shall  steal  him  also."  To 
this  Anderson  replied,  "  If  you  stole  my  horse  you  must 
pay  me  for  him."  "  Yes,"  said  the  Indian,  ''  I  will  pay 
you  for  him,  take  that  horse,"  pointing  to  a  very  poor 
horse  which  stood  near  by,  with  one  eye  out,  and  a  very 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  145 

sore  back.  Anderson  replied,  "  That  is  a  very  poor  horse 
and  mine  was  a  very  good  one;  I  shall  not  take  him,  and 
if  you  don't  bring  him  back  I  will  report  you  to  Dr. 
White."  ''I  am  not  afraid  of  Dr.  White,"  said  the 
Indian,  "  let  him  come  if  he  wants  to,  and  bring  the 
Boston  people  with  him;  he  will  find  me  prepared  for 
him." 

Anderson  not  being  able  to  effect  a  settlement  with 
the  Indian,  immediately  reported  him  to  the  agent, 
whereupon  the  latter  wrote  to  a  man  at  the  falls  by  the 
name  of  Campbell,  to  take  a  sufficient  number  of  men 
armed  with  muskets,  and  go  very  early  in  the  morning 
to  the  Indian  cauip,  and  take  the  horse-thief  a  prisoner, 
and  bring  him  up  to  the  falls.  Accordingly,  Campbell 
procured  five  men,  and  w^ent  to  the  camp  as  commanded, 
but  found  thirty  or  forty  Indians  painted  in  the  most 
hideous  manner,  and  armed  with  muskets,  bows  and 
arrows,  tomahawks,  and  scalping  knives,  and  determined 
at  all  events  to  protect  the  horse-thief,  and  drive  back 
those  that  should  come  to  take  him.  Campbell  rushed 
on  to  take  the  rogue,  but  met  with  such  resistance  from 
superiority  of  numbers,  and  finding  that  the  enterprise, 
if  urged  forward,  would  terminate  in  bloodshed,  if  not 
in  the  loss  of  all  their  lives,  sounded  a  retreat,  and  extri- 
cating himself  from  the  Indians,  returned  to  the  falls. 
He  communicated  the  results  of  his  attempt  to  Dr. 
White,  and  the  Doctor  started  off  immediately  in  com- 
pany with  G.  W.  Le  Breton,  resolved  to  capture  the  thief 
and  bring  the  tribe  to  terms. 

April  17th.  The  excitement  still  continued,  former 
reports  having  been  confirmed,  and  all  were  engaged  in 
repairing  guns,  and  securing  ammunition.  A  report  was 
in  circulation  that  Dr.  McLaughlin  refused  to  grant  sup- 
plies for  any  consideration  to  all  those  persons  who  sub- 
scribed the  memorial  praying  the  Congress  of  the  United 
States  to  extend  jurisdiction  over  Oregon.  If  this  be  so, 
the  American  population,  as  nearly  all  signed  the  memo- 
rial, will  not  be  able  to  obtain  ammunition,  however 
necessary  it  may  be,  as  there  is  none  in  the  country 
except  what  may  be  found  within  the  stockades  of  Van- 


146  TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR. 

couver.  I  think,  however,  that  the  report  is  false 
Report  says,  furthermore,  that  the  Khkitat  Indians  are 
collecting  together  back  of  the  Tuahty  plains,  bat  for 
what  purpose  is  not  known.  The  people  on  the  plains, 
consisting  of  about  thirty  families,  are  quite  alarmed. 
There  is  also  a  move  among  the  Calapooahs.  Shoefon, 
one  of  the  principal  men  of  the  tribe,  left  this  place  a 
few  days  ago,  and  crossed  the  Wallamette  river,  declar- 
ing that  he  would  never  return  until  he  came  with  a 
band  of  men  to  drive  off  the  Boston  people.  He  was 
very  much  offended  because  some  of  his  people  were 
seized  and  flogged,  through  the  influence  of  Dr.  White, 
for  having  stolen  horses  from  some  of  the  missionaries, 
and  flour  from  the  mission  mill.  His  influence  is  not 
very  extensive  among  the  Indians  or  we  might  have 
much  to  fear.  The  colony  is  indeed  in  a  most  defence- 
less condition;  two  hundred  Indians,  divided  into  four 
bands,  might  destroy  the  entire  settlement  in  one  night. 

In  the  evening  of  the  17th,  Dr.  White  arrived  at  my 
house  bringing  intelligence  from  the  falls.  He  and  Mr. 
Le  Breton  attempted  to  go  to  the  falls  on  horseback,  but 
in  trying  to  ford  Haunchauke  river,  they  found  the  water 
so  deep  that  they  were  obliged  to  swim,  and  the  Doctor 
turned  his  horse's  head,  and  came  out  the  side  he  went 
in;  but  Le  Breton,  being  the  better  mounted  of  the  two, 
succeeded  in  gaining  the  opposite  shore;  and  having  the 
Doctor's  letters  in  his  possession,  continued  on  to  the 
falls.  The  Doctor  returned  to  the  settlement.  Le  Breton 
returned  the  following  day,  and  brought  information 
from  the  five  men  who  attempted  to  take  the  Indian  who 
had  stolen  Anderson's  horse,  that  soon  after  their  retreat 
the  Indians  became  alarmed  and  broke  up  in  great  haste; 
but  before  they  left,  they  informed  Anderson  that  the 
horse  they  had  stolen  from  him  was  worn  out  and  good 
for  nothing,  and  tying  a  good  horse  to  a  tree  near  An- 
derson's house,  they  told  him  that  he  must  take  that  and 
be  satisfied.  They  then  hurried  away,  saying  that  they 
should  not  be  seen  in  that  region  again.  It  was  ascer- 
tained that  the  Klackamas  Indians  had  nothing  to  do  with 
the  stolen  horse;  that  it  was  a  band  r-f  the  Molalas,  the 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  147 

very  same  rascals  that  stole  a  horse  from  me  two  years 
before,  and  after  having  him  in  their  possession  several 
weeks,  brought  him  down  within  a  few  miles  of  my 
house,  where  they  encamped,  and  where  I  went  with 
one  man  and  took  him  from  the  midst  of  more  than  fifty 
grim  looking  savages. 

On  the  20th  of  April,  a  letter  w^as  received  in  the 
settlement,  written  by  H.  B.  Brewer,  at  the  Dalls,  which 
brings  the  latest  intelligence  from  the  infected  region. 
This  letter  states  that  the  Indians  in  the  interior  talk 
much  of  war,  and  Mr.  Brewer  urges  Dr.  White  to  come 
up  without  delay,  and  endeavor  to  allay  the  excitement. 
He  does  not  inform  us  that  the  Indians  design  any  evil 
toward  the  whites,  but  says  that  the  war  is  to  be  between 
themselves,  but  that  the  Boston  people  have  much  to 
fear.  As  the  Doctor,  in  his  visit  to  the  interior  last  Oc- 
tober, left  an  appointment  to  meet  the  Walla- Walla 
Indians  and  the  Kay  uses,  in  their  own  country,  on  the 
tenth  of  May,  and  believing  that  a  great  share  of  the 
excitement  originated  in  a  misunderstanding  of  the  In- 
dians, he  came  to  the  conclusion  at  all  hazards  to  go 
among  them.  At  the  solicitation  of  the  agent,  I  deter- 
mined to  accompany  him  on  the  expedition. 
/The  great  complaint  of  the  Indians  was  that  the  Bos- 
ton people  designed  to  take  away  their  lands,  and  reduce 
them  to  slavery.  This  they  had  inferred  from  what  Dr. 
White  had  told  them  in  his  previous  visit;  and  this  mis- 
understanding of  the  Indians  had  not  only  produced  a 
great  excitement  among  them,  but  had  occasioned  con- 
siderable trouble  betwixt  them  and  the  missionaries  and 
other  whites  in  the  upper  country,  as  well  as  influencing 
them  to  threaten  the  destruction  of  all  the  American 
people.,'  Individuals  had  come  down  from  fort  Walla- 
Walla  to  Vancouver,  bringing  information  of  the  excited 
state  of  things  among  the  Indians,  and  giving  out  that  it 
would  be  extremely  dangerous  for  Dr.  White  to  go  up 
to  meet  his  engagements.  Their  opinion  was,  that  in  all 
probability  he  and  the  party  which  he  might  think  proper 
to  take  with  him,  would  be  cut  off.  But  it  was  the 
opinion  of  many  judicious  persons  in  the  settlement,  that 


148  TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR. 

the  welfare  of  the  Indians,  and  the  peace  and  security 
of  the  whites,  demanded  that  some  persons  quaUfied  to 
negotiate  with  the  Indians,  should  proceed  immediately 
to  the  scene  of  disaffection,  and  if  possible  remove  the 
cause  of  the  excitement  by  correcting  the  error  under 
which  the  Indians  labored.  Accordingly,  Dr.  White 
engaged  twelve  men  besides  myself,  mostly  French  Can- 
adians who  had  had  much  experience  with  Indians,  to  go 
with  him;  but  a  few  days  before  the  time  fixed  upon  to 
start  had  arrived,  they  all  sent  him  word  that  they  had 
decided  not  to  go.  They  were  doubtless  induced  to 
pursue  this  course  through  the  influence  of  Dr.  Mc. 
Laughlin,  and  the  Catholic  priests. 

When  the  day  arrived  for  starting,  we  found  ourselves 
abandoned  by  every  person  who  had  engaged  to  go, 
except  Mr.  G.  W.  Le  Breton,  an  American,  one  Indian 
boy,  and  one  Kanaka.  With  the  two  latter  the  Doc- 
tor and  myself  left  the  Wallamette  settlement  on  the 
twenty-fifth  of  April,  1843,  and  proceeded  on  horseback 
to  the*  Butte,  where  we  found  Le  Breton  in  waiting  for 
us.  He  had  provided  a  canoe  and  a  few  pieces  of  pork 
and  beef  for  our  use  on  the  vogage. 

Here  we  met  a  letter  from  Dr.  John  Mc  Laughlin,  at 
Vancouver,  discouraging  us  from  our  undertaking  in 
view  of  the  dilhculties  and  dangers  attending  such  an 
expedition;  but  we  had  counted  the  cost,  and  were  not 
to  be  diverted  from  our  purpose,  though  dangers  stared 
us  in  the  face.  We  supposed  that  if  the  Indians  enter- 
tained any  hostile  intentions  against  the  whites  in  gen- 
eral, there  could  be  no  better  way  to  defeat  their 
purposes  than  to  go  among  them;  convince  them  that 
they  had  no  grounds  of  fear;  and  that  the  w^hites,  instead 
of  designing  to  bring  them  into  subjection,  were  desirous 
of  doing  them  good.  Prevented  by  one  thing  and 
another  from  setting  sail,  on  the  night  of  the  twenty- 
seventh  we  slept  on  a  bank  of  sand  at  the  Butte,  and 
next  day  proceeded  in  our  little  canoe  down  to  the  Wal- 
lametie  falls,  where  we  continued  until  the  twenty-ninth. 
Here  we  received  another  package  from  Dr.  Mc  Laugh- 
lin, giving  us  information  that  Rev.  Mr.  De  Merce,  a  Ca- 


rotlR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  149 

tholic  priest,  had  just,  come  down  from  the  upper  country, 
bringing  intelHgence  that  the  Indians  are  only  incensed 
against  the  Boston  people;  that  they  have  nothing  against 
the  French  and  King  George  people;  they  are  not  mad 
at  them,  but  are  determined  that  the  Boston  people  shall 
not  have  their  lands,  and  take  aw^ay  their  liberties.  On 
receiving  this  intelligence  from  Mr.  De  Merce,  Dr. 
Mc  Laughlin  advised  the  Frenchman  who  had  engaged 
to  go  with  Dr.  White,  to  have  nothing  to  do  with  the 
quarrel,  to  remain  quiet  at  home,  and  let  the  Americans 
take  care  of  themselves.  He  alse  expressed,  in  his  let- 
ter, the  opinion  that  all  the  people  should  remain  quiet, 
and  in  all  probability  the  excitement  among  the  Indians 
would  soon  subside. 

Not  seeing  sufficient  reason  to  change  our  course,  on 
the  morning  of  the  28th,  we  left  our  hospitable  friends 
at  the  Falls,  and  continued  our  course  down  the  Walla- 
mette  towards  Vancouver.  At  noon  we  had  sailed 
twenty  miles,  and  stopped  for  dinner  within  five  miles  of 
the  mouth  of  the  Wallamette,  on  a  low  piece  of  ground, 
overgrown  with  luxuriant  grass,  but  which  is  always 
overflown  at  the  rise  of  the  Columbia,  which  is  about 
the  first  of  June.  "  Weighed  anchor  "  after  dinner,  and 
at  four  o'clock,  p.  m.,  arrived  at  Vancouver.  Called  on 
Dr.  Mc  Laughlin  for  goods,  provisions,  powder,  balls, 
&c.,  for  our  accommodation  on  our  voyage  up  the  Co- 
lumbia, and,  though  he  was  greatly  surprised  that,  under 
the  circumstances,  we  should  think  of  going  among  those 
excited  Indians,  yet  he  ordered  his  clerks  to  let  us  have 
whatever  we  wanted.  However,  we  found  it  rather 
squally  at  the  fort,  not  so  much  on  account  of  our  going 
among  the  Indians  of  the  interior,  as  in  consequence  of 
a  certain  memorial  having  been  sent  to  the  United  States' 
Congress,  imphcating  the  conduct  of  Dr.  Mc  Laughlin 
and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  bearing  the  signa- 
tures of  seventy  Americans.  I  inquired  of  the  Doctor 
if  he  had  refused  to  grant  supplies  to  those  Americans 
who  had  signed  that  document;  he  replied  that  he  had 
not,  but  that  the  authors  of  the  memorial  need  expect  no 
more  favors  from  him.     Not  being  one  of  the  authors. 


150  TOUR    TO    THE    LNTEUIOR. 

but  merely  a  signer  of  the  petition,  I  did  not  come  under 
the  ban  of  the  company;  consequently  I  obtained  my 
outfit  for  the  expedition,  though  at  first  there  were 
strong  indications  that  I  would  be  refused. 

We  remained  at  the  fort  over  night  and  a  part  of  the 
next  day,  and  after  a  close  conversation  with  the  gentle- 
man in  command,  were  treated  with  great  courtesy. 

At  two  o'clock,  p.  M.,  of  Saturday  29th,  left,  and  con- 
tinued our  voyage  up  the  Columbia.  As  we  proceeded 
from  the  fort,  mount  Hood  appeared  directly  before  us. 
Though  this  mountain  is  twenty-five  miles  from  the 
river,  and  more  than  forty  from  Vancouver,  yet  it  ap- 
peared to  be  not  more  than  five  or  six  miles  distant. 
There  are  few  things,  perhaps,  in  the  world,  that  com- 
bine more  grandeur  and  subhmity  in  their  appearance 
than  this  stupendous  glacier  viewed  from  the  surface  of 
the  Columbia  river.  The  Alleghany  and  Katskill  moun- 
tains are  but  mounds  when  compared  with  this  astonishing 
pile  of  Basalt,  whose  head  is  lifted  to  the  amazing  hight 
of  sixteen  thousand  feet,  and  whitened  with  perpetual 
snow.  We  feasted  our  eyes  upon  this  sublime  spectacle 
until  the  sun  had  bidden  us  good  night,  and  the  shades  of 
evening  had  thrown  a  dark  mantle  around  the  enchanting 
scenery;  then  mooring  our  canoe  in  a  little  eddy,  we 
made  our  encampment  for  the  Sabbath  on  a  small  island 
about  ten  miles  above  Vancouver,  which  is  evidently 
laid  under  contribution  by  the  Columbia  every  succeeding 
June,  but  which,  at  this  time,  was  fifteen  feet  higher  than 
the  waters  of  the  river.  A  canoe  containing  seven 
Indians,  left  the  fort  with  us,  and  as  we  were  short  of 
help,  one  of  the  Indians  engaged,  for  the  consideration 
of  a  blanket  and  one  shirt,  to  take  the  stern  of  our  canoe, 
and  assist  us  up  to  the  Balls.  These  Indians  belonged  to 
the  Wascopam  tribe,  and  most  of  them  profess  to  have 
been  converted  to  Christianity  through  the  labors  of  Rev. 
Daniel  Lee,  and  Rev.  H.  K.  W.  Perkins.  We  all  en- 
camped in  the  same  place,  and  when  the  time  for  evening 
prayers  arrived,  the  Indians  all  joined  us  with  apparent 
sincerity  and  devotion,  after  which  we  committed  our- 
selves to   sleep  on  our  blanket  beds  upon   the  ground. 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  151 

After  a  comfortable  night's  rest,  we  arose  and  enjoyed 
our  humble  repast,  consisting  of  ham,  bread,  butter  and 
tea.  We  prepared  to  spend  the  sacred  day  as  profitably 
as  we  could,  though  in  the  lonely  solitudes  of  a  dense 
forest  of  Cottonwood,  on  the  banks  of  the  Columbia. 
We  engaged  in  a  season  of  reading  the  scriptures,  sing- 
ing, and  prayer,  after  which  I  endeavored  to  give  our 
Neophytes  a  lesson  concerning  the  things  which  belong 
to  their  peace.  This  done,  I  strolled  along  the  banks  of 
the  river  about  one-fourth  of  a  mile,  for  the  purpose  of 
being  alone,  and  coming  to  a  wild  appletree  which  leaned 
its  trunk  over  the  smooth  surface  of  the  waters,  I  seated 
myself  upon  it,  and  a  train  of  reflections,  varying  in 
their  influence  upon  my  feelings  as  they  differed  in  cha- 
racter, passed  through  my  mind. 

I  thought  of  beloved  parents  from  whom  I  had  not 
heard  for  years;  of  the  tears  they  shed  when  last  I  saw 
them,  and  received  the  parting  benediction,  and  of  the 
anxiety  they  must  still  feel,  if  alive,  for  their  wandering 
son.  I  thought  of  all  my  former  associates,  of  brothers 
and  sisters,  and  early  school  mates,  and  christian  friends, 
with  whom  I  had  taken  sweet  counsel,  and  walked  to 
the  house  of  God,  and  who,  if  they  had  not  forgotten 
me,  would  ask,  '^  Where  is  he  1  and  what  is  his  employ- 
ment 1"  I  thought  of  everything  of  interest  in  my 
native  land;  of  bustling  cities,  with  wheels  rattling  and 
hoofs  clattering  over  their  pavements;  of  smiling  villages 
and  towns,  with  their  splendid  turnpikes  and  McAdam- 
ized  roads;  of  railroad  cars  and  steamboats  ;  of  temples 
erected  to  the  God  of  heaven;  the  toll  of  chiming  bells  as 
they  informed  the  waiting  thousands  that  the  time  of  wor- 
ship had  arrived;  of  crowded  assemblies  listening  to  the 
messengers  of  Jesus;  and  of  saints  rejoicing,  and  altars 
thronged  with  mourning  penitents.  Continuing  these 
reflections  until  my  mind  experienced  a  kind  of  abstrac- 
tion from  the  objects  surrounding  me,  I  fancied  myself 
really  amidst  the  scenes,  the  contemplation  of  which  had 
produced  this  pleasing  illusion,  and  starting  up  I  found 
myself  surrounded  with  the  stillness  of  death,  save  the 
murmuring  of  the  turbid  waters  of  the  Columbia  that 


152  TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR^ 

rolled  beneath  where  I  sat.  Contrasting  the  land  which 
had  passed  before  my  mental  vision  with  that  in  which  I 
felt  myself  a  voluntary  exile,  I  exclaimed,  how  changed 
the  scene  !  This,  thought  I,  is  truly  a  land  of  darkness. 
Amidst  the  solitudes  of  these  forests  and  plains  the  gos- 
pel is  never  heard  except  perchance  the  missionary  of 
the  cross  may  be  passing  through  the  land,  and  then  to 
but  here  and  there  a  small  group  of  wretched  Indians, 
who  are  alternately  shivering  with  ague,  and  burning 
with  fever,  upon  the  brink  of  death.  I  was  led  to 
inquire,  when  shall  this  state  of  things  give  way  to  civil- 
ization and  Christianity  1  when  shall  "  the  sound  of  the 
church-going  bell"  be  heard  among  these  mountains  and 
over  these  plains'?  When  shall  the  banks  of  this  noble 
river  be  studded  with  cities  and  villages,  with  the  tem- 
ples of  Jehovah,  whose  steeples  blazing  in  the  sunlight, 
shall  tell  the  traveler  that  God  is  worshiped  here  ?  And 
I  fancied  this  response  came  back  to  my  inquiries:  not 
until  the  present  race  shall  have  gone  to  the  gra^ves  of 
their  fathers,  and  others  shall  rise  to  take  their  place. 

Returning  to  the  camp  we  sat  down  upon  the  ground 
to  a  dinner  which  the  Doctor's  Kanaka,  John,  and  my 
Indian  boy,  Sampson,  had  prepared  for  us.  Towards 
evening  the  Doctor  and  myself  walked  leisurly  into  the 
thickest  of  the  forest,  towards  the  centre  of  the  Island, 
and  seating  ourselves  upon  a  log,  talked  of  by-gone  days, 
raised  a  song  of  praise  to  the  Redeemer,  and  upon  our 
knees  offered  up  a  tribute  of  thanksgiving  for  the  past, 
and  invoked  the  Divine  blessing  on  our  future  course. 

Monday,  May  1st.  At  sunrise  pi'oceeded  on  our  voy- 
age, and  were  much  delighted  with  the  magnificent 
scenery  on  the  shores  of  the  great  Columbia.     At  eight 

o'clock  passed  the  Prairie  Du ,  which  lies  on  the 

north  side  of  the  river.  This  is  a  low,  wet  prairie,  with 
but  little  land  which  will  admit  of  cultivation,  but  well 
adapted  to  grazing  purposes.  As  we  proceeded,  the 
land  next  to  the  river  became  more  uneven,  the  shores 
more  rocky  and  abrupt,  and  at  length  we  found  ourselves 
crawling  along  at  the  base  of  a  frowniing  precipice  of 
rocks,  rising  more  than  three  hundred  feet  perpendicular 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  15S 

over  our  heads.  A  little  farther  on  and  huge  masses 
of  Basalt  appeared  thrown  together  in  the  wildest  con- 
fusion,  and  these  w^ould  be  succeeded  by  another  frightful 
precipice,  causing  one  involuntarily  to  cringe  while  look- 
ing upward  towards  its  dizzy  height.  From  the  top,  as 
if  to  add  beauty  to  terror,  came  leaping  down  a  Hmpid 
brook,  which  lost  itself  in  spray,  long  before  it  reached 
the  bottom  ;  and  then  again  large  fir-trees,  stuck  upon 
the  top  of  the  rock  three  or  four  hundred  feet  directly 
over  our  heads,  and  leaning  their  waving  tops  far  over 
the  rolling  waters,  would  seem  to  look  down  upon  us 
with  the  most  threatening  aspect.  Conical  formations 
of  rocks  from  thirty  to  one  hundred  feet  high  appeared, 
peering  up  out  of  the  water,  resembling  in  form  the 
huge  hay-stacks  of  a  Connecticut  farmer.  As  we  passed 
along  at  the  base  of  these  grand  abutments  of  nature, 
swarms  of  swallows  far  above  our  heads,  were  delight- 
fully playing  around  the  holes  and  crevices  of  the  preci- 
pice, in  which  they  had  built  their  nests. 

At  twelve  o'clock,  we  passed  a  low  point  of  land 
which  has  received  the  name  of  Cape  Horn,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  difficulty  of  the  navigation  of  this  part  of 
the  river  arising  from  the  strength  of  wind  which  gene- 
rally prevails  here.  Often,  when  it  is  safe  running  on 
all  other  parts  of  the  river,  canoes,  on  arriving  here, 
are  obliged  to  lie  by,  sometimes  for  days,  before  they 
can  possibly  pass  this  point.  Indeed,  the  Cape  Horn  of 
the  Columbia  is  more  difficult  to  double  with  the  pigmy 
craft  which  is  used  on  this  river,  than  the  stormy  cape 
bearing  the  same  name  at  the  southern  extremity  of 
Terra  del  Fuego. 

A  few  miles  above  Cape  Horn,  we  came  to  a  huge 
rock,  which  is  justly  considered  a  great  curiosity.  The 
mountains  at  this  place  retire  about  one  half  mile  from 
the  river,  and  this  rock  is  situated  midway  between  the 
river  and  the  mountain.  In  form  it  is  nearly  round  ;  is 
about  twenty-five  rods  in  diameter  at  its  base,  and  rises 
perpendicularly  on  all  sides  to  the  height  of  at  least  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet.  It  then  assumes  a  conical  form, 
and  gradually  diminishes  in  size  till  it  rises  some  two 
7 


164  TOUR    TO    TH£    INTERIOR. 

hundred  feet  morej  and  then  presents  to  the  heavens  a 
broken  surface  of  several  rods  in  diameter,  beautifully 
ornamented  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  variegated  ever- 
greens. Passing  this  stupendous  monument  reared  by 
nature's  hands  in  mockery  of  the  works  of  art,  we 
arrived  at  the  cascades  at  sundown,  and  camped  for  the 
night,  after  having  run  a  hair-breadth  risk  of  losing  our 
canoe  and  all  our  baggage,  at  one  of  the  violent  rapids 
below  the  cascades.  Our  men,  consisting  of  two  Indians 
and  one  Kanaka,  were  cordelling  our  canoe  up  the  rapid; 
and  coming  round  a  point  of  rocks,  it  took  a  sheer  out 
into  the  strongest  part  of  the  current,  and  began  directly 
to  fill  with  water.  My  Indian  boy,  Sampson,  was  the 
only  one  that  had  hold  of  the  rope,  and  such  was  the 
strength  of  the  current  against  the  canoe,  that  he  could 
not  hold  on  to  the  rope  with  his  hands  ;  and  being  about 
to  be  pulled  from  the  rocks  into  the  river,  he  grasped 
the  rope  between  his  teeth,  and  faUing  down  upon  the 
rocks,  held  fast  to  them  with  his  hands,  and  in  that  man- 
ner succeeded  in  bringing  the  canoe  back  to  the  shore, 
with  no  other  damage  being  done,  than  the  wetting  of 
our  provisions  and  bedding. 

When  we  retired  to  rest,  wrapped  in  our  wet  blankets, 
we  were  reminded  of  a  little  incident  in  the  experience 
of  Mr.  Townsend,  a  naturalist,  who  traveled  down  this 
river  several  years  before.  It  had  rained  severely  all 
day,  and  every  article  he  had,  bedding,  wardrobe,  pro- 
visions and  all,  were  thoroughly  drenched.  He  rolled 
himself  in  his  wet  blankets  and  lay  down  to  sleep,  think- 
ing of  the  last  words  of  his  dying  grandmother,  "  Be 
careful  and  never  sleep  in  damp  sheets." 

Tuesday,  2d.  From  the  effects  of  the  wind  upon  the 
the  water  and  the  sand,  filling  the  air  with  the  latter  as 
snow  in  a  February  storm  in  Western  New  York,  and 
raising  the  former  into  high  waves,  we  were  obliged  to 
lie  quiet  in  our  camp.  Occasionally,  however,  we  ven- 
tured out  to  the  shore  of  the  Columbia,  contemplating 
her  majesty,  as  she  pours  her  exhaustless  flood  down 
the  ledge  of  rocks  which  forms  the  beautiful  cascades. 
The  river  here  falls  in  continued  rapids  for  three  miles, 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  155 

not  less  than  fifty  feet.  That  portion  of  the  rapids 
properly  called  the  cascades,  presents  an  appearance  of 
grandeur  and  sublimity  not  inferior  to  that  of  the  rapids 
of  the  Niagara  river,  above  the  great  cataract.  At  this 
place  the  Columbia  rushes  through  the  cascade  range  of 
mountains,  and  the  channel  through  which  it  pours  its 
mighty  torrent,  appears  not  more  than  thirty  rods  wide, 
while  each  shore  presents  indubitable  evidence  that,  by 
a  vast  accumulation  of  water  above,  these  mountain 
barriers  were  torn  assunder,  and  thus  this  mighty  river 
found  its  way  to  the  Pacific  ocean.  The  Indians  here 
have  a  tradition  that,  a  long  time  ago,  the  mountain  was 
joined  together  over  the  river,  and  that  the  river  per- 
formed a  subterraneous  passage  for  some  distance,  with 
a  slow  current,  and  that  their  people  used  to  pass  up 
and  down  with  their  canoes  without  difficulty  ;  but  all 
at  once  the  foundations  of  this  mighty  arch  crumbled 
beneath  their  ponderous  weight,  and  the  whole  mass 
came  tumbling  into  the  river,  filling  up  the  channel  and 
quite  damming  up  the  stream,  and  thus  were  formed  the 
beautiful  cascades.  The  probabifity  is  that  this  tradition 
is  true  only  in  part.  Doubtless  the  time  was  when  there 
were  no  cascades  here,  and  they  were  probably  formed 
by  the  mountain's  sHding  into  the  river  in  tremendous 
avalanches,  and  thus  filling  up  the  channel.  The  land 
on  each  side  of  the  river  at  this  place  is  rough  and 
sterile,  and  the  scenery  wild  beyond  description.  The 
cascades  are  fifty  miles  above  Vancouver,  and  one  hun- 
dred and  forty-five  from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 

At  three,  p.  m.,  the  wind  lulling,  we  proceeded  up  ten 
miles  and  camped  for  the  night,  which  was  exceedingly 
windy,  with  some  rain.  Found  the  river  wide  above 
the  cascades,  with  little  current,  and,  from  appearances, 
were  convinced  that  the  Indian  tradition  concerning  the 
falling  in  of  the  mountain,  is  not  without  foundation. 
The  original  channel  appears  to  have  been  very  narrow, 
compared  with  the  present  width  of  the  river.  Forests 
which  were  situated  on  its  former  banks,  have  been 
overflown,  and  a  vast  number  of  stumps  and  trees  which 
have  not  yet  wasted  away,  stand  in  the  present  bed  of 
the  stream 


156  TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR. 

Wednesday,  3d.  Continued  our  voyage,  but  at  noon 
were  obliged  to  lay  by  in  consequence  of  the  rise  of  the 
wind. 

Anxious  to  make  headway,  we  continued  out  after 
the  wind  had  increased  to  a  strong  gale.  We  passed 
a  number  of  dangerous  points,  where  the  shore  was  pre- 
cipitous and  ^'  iron  bound  ;"  but  the  wind  being  directly 
astern,  and  having  a  blanket  rigged  for  a  sail,  we  darted 
past  them  like  an  arrow,  though  the  waves  ran  so  high 
that  they  threatened  every  moment  to  engulph  us.  In 
passing  the  last  point  before  we  came  to  shore,  we  run 
a  very  great  hazard  of  losing  our  canoe  and  baggage, 
if  not  our  Hves.  A  canoe  much  larger  than  ours,  with 
five  Indians,  had  just  passed  the  point,  and  barely  es- 
caped. Running  their  canoe  into  a  little  bay  just  above, 
they  hurried  back  along  the  shore,  and  arrived  at  the 
point  just  as  we  did,  expecting  to  see  our  little  canoe 
driven  against  the  shelving  rocks,  by  the  violence  of  the 
winds  and  waves,  and  dashed  to  pieces.  But  with  ama- 
zing swiftness,  and  in  fearful  proximity,  we  shot  by  the 
dangerous  point,  realizing  no  other  damage  than  a  wet- 
ting, and  a  fright.  As  for  myself,  when  we  were  tossed 
in  our  feather-like  craft  over  these  Atlantic  waves,  and 
driven  with  such  violence  so  near  the  frowning  rocks 
that  I  could  touch  them  with  my  hand  as  we  were 
shooting  by,  and  my  heart  beating  so  violently  that  it 
sounded  Hke  the  grunting  of  a  black  grouse  in  the  top 
of  a  fir-tree,  I  thought  I  had  much  rather  be  on  terra 
firma;  so,  mooring  our  canoe  in  a  little  cove,  we  waited 
for  the  wind  to  fall.  Resuming  our  voyage  towards 
evening,  we  ran  a  few  miles,  and  camped  for  the  night. 

Thursday,  4th.  Arrived  at  the  Dalls,  and  found  our 
friends  well  and  prospering.  Here  reside  Rev.  Daniel 
Lee,  one  of  the  pioneer  missionaries  to  Oregon,  Rev. 
H.  K.  W.  Perkins,  and  Mr.  H.  B.  Brewer.  They  are 
laboring  to  establish  a  permanent  mission  at  this  place 
for  the  benefit  of  the  Indians,  but  with  doubtful  success. 

The  country  around  is  much  better  than  I  expected 
to  find.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  mission  the  land  is  ex- 
ceedingly fertile,  and  the  scenery  is  most  delightful. 

Soon  after  we  arrived,  about  twenty  Indians  came  to 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  157 

the  house  of  Mr.  Brewer,  where  we  stopped,  to  have  a 
talk  with  Dr.  White.  When  he  was  up  the  winter  be- 
fore, he  prevailed  on  these  Indians  to  organize  themselves 
into  a  kind  of  government.  One  high  chief,  and  three 
subordinates  were  elected  ;  laws  were  enacted,  and  the 
penalties  annexed  were  whippings  more  or  less  severe, 
according  to  the  nature  of  the  crime.  The  chiefs  had 
found  much  difficulty  in  enforcing  the  laws.  In  punishing 
delinquents  some  of  the  Indians  resisting,  even  to  the 
point  of  the  knife. 

The  chiefs,  who  were  appointed  through  the  influence 
of  Dr.  White,  were  desirous  that  these  regulations  should 
continue,  evidently  because  they  placed  the  people  under 
their  absolute  control,  and  gave  them  the  power  to  regu- 
late all  their  intercourse  with  the  whites,  and  with  the 
other  Indian  tribes.  But  the  other  influential  men  who 
were  not  in  office,  desired  to  know  of  Dr.  White,  of 
what  benefit  this  whipping  system  was  going  to  be  to 
them.  They  said  they  were  veiling  it  should  continue, 
provided  they  were  to  receive  blankets,  shirts  and  pants, 
as  a  reward  for  being  whipped.  They  had  been  whipped 
a  good  many  times,  and  had  got  nothing  for  it,  and  it 
had  done  them  no  good.  If  this  state  of  things  was 
to  continue,  it  was  all  (cultus)  good  for  nothing,  and 
they  would  throw  it  all  away.  In  reply  they  were  told 
by  the  Doctor  that  we  could  not  be  detained  to  settle 
any  of  their  difficulties  now  ;  that  we  were  going  far- 
ther into  the  interior,  and  were  in  a  very  great  hurry  ; 
and  that  when  we  returned  he  would  endeavor  to  make 
all  straight.  But  he  wished  them  to  understand  that 
they  need  not  expect  pay  for  being  flogged,  when  they 
deserved  it.  They  laughed  heartily  at  the  idea,  and 
dispersed,  giving  us  an  opportunity  to  make  arrangements 
for  the  continuance  of  our  journey. 

We  left  our  canoe  at  the  Dalls  in  the  care  of  an  In- 
dian, and  engaged  eight  horses  of  an  old  Indian,  by  the 
name  of  Canasissa,  who  was  to  bring  them  to  us  the 
following  morning. 

Friday,  5th.  Canasissa  arrived  early  in  the  morning, 
and  coming  to  us  with  a  very  long  face,  inquired  what 


158  TOUR    TO    THE   INTERIOR. 

we  were  going  to  give  him  to  accompany  us,  as  he 
wished  to  see  that  the  horses  were  well  used.  The 
Doctor  replied,  "  You  are  a  very  old  man  ;  the  journey 
is  long,  and  the  Indians  are  very  silex,  (angry);  you  may 
get  into  difficulty  ;  you  had  better  stay  at  home."  Still 
Canasissa  insisted  on  going,  but  was  told  that  if  he  went 
he  must  go  for  nothing.  He  then  said  that  he  had 
brought  but  seven  horses,  and  thought  that  we  did  not 
give  only  enough  to  pay  for  the  seven,  but  he  should 
have  brought  the  eighth  if  he  could  have  found  it.  He 
was  told  that  we  must  have  the  eighth.  "  Yes,"  said 
Canasissa,  ^'You  may  have  the  eighth,  if  you  will  give 
me  one  blanket  more  in  addition  to  what  you  were  to 
give  me."  But  we  peremptorily  refused  to  take  any 
without  the  whole,  according  to  agreement  ;  and  went 
about  negotiating  with  another  Indian  to  supply  us  with 
horses.  When  Canasissa  saw  that  we  were  about  to 
succeed  with  the  other  one,  he  altered  his  tone,  and 
came  up  to  us  saying  that  it  was  very  good  for  us  not 
to  pay  another  blanket ;  that  he  would  bring  the  other 
horse,  and  would  go  with  us  himself.  Taking  him  at 
his  offer,  we  made  arrangements  also  with  Rev.  H.  K. 
W.  Perkins  to  accompany  us. 

Horses  ready,  saddles  all  on,  and  bridles,  consisting 
of  hide-rope,  tied  to  the  horse's  lower  jaw,  with  our 
baggage,  provisions,  &c.,  packed  on  the  backs  of  two 
of  the  horses,  we  mounted,  and  left  the  mission  at  eleven 
o'clock.  Four  miles  brought  us  to  the  great  Dalls,  and 
here  Canasissa  brought  us  the  eighth  horse,  and  acknow- 
ledged that  the  object  he  had  in  view  in  not  bringing 
it  to  us  in  the  first  place,  was  to  extort  from  us  an 
additional  blanket,  a  trick  quite  characteristic  of  these 
Indians,  who  seem  instinctively  to  embrace  every  oppor- 
tunity that  presents  itself,  to  overreach  those  who,  in 
any  measure,  are  dependent  upon  them.  I  was  pecu- 
liarly struck,  while  we  were  negotiating  with  them,  with 
their  astonishing  tact  in  cheating.  As  a  matter  of 
course,  lying  has  much  to  do  in  their  system  of  trade, 
and  he  is  the  best  fellow  who  can  tell  the  biggest  lie, 
make  men  believe  it,  and  practice  the  greatest  deception. 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  159 

A  few  years  ago  a  great  religious  excitement  prevailed 
among  these  Indians,  and  nearly  the  whole  tribe,  con- 
sisting of  upwards  of  a  thousand,  professed  to  be  con- 
verted, were  baptized,  and  received  into  the  christian 
church  ;  but  they  have  nearly  all  relapsed  into  their 
former  state,  with  the  exception  that  many  of  them  still 
keep  up  the  outward  forms  of  religion.  Their  religion 
appears  to  be  more  of  the  head  than  of  the  heart,  and 
though  they  are  exceedingly  vicious,  yet  doubtless  they 
would  be  much  worse  than  they  are  but  for  the  restrain- 
ing influences  exerted  upon  them  by  the  missionaries. 

They  are  known  by  the  name  of  the  Wasco  Indians, 
and  they  call  their  country  round  the  Dalls,  Wascopam. 
They  claim  the  country  extending  from  the  cascades  up 
to  the  falls  of  the  Columbia,  the  distance  of  about  fifty 
miles.  "  La  Dallas,"  or  the  narrows,  as  the  word  signi- 
fies in  EngHsh,  are  somewhat  remarkable.  Here  the 
Columbia  suddenly  contracts  into  a  very  narrow  channel, 
and  then  rushes  through  a  mighty  gorge  or  chasm  in  the 
rocks,  with  fearful  violence,  in  its  passage  tumbling  and 
boiling  and  roaring,  and  ever  and  anon  forming  the  most 
tremendous  whirlpools.  Yet  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany's boats  are  frequently  made  to  run  these  frightful 
narrows,  and  it  is  not  uncommon  for  them  to  pay  for 
their  rashness  with  the  loss  of  a  boat,  and  a  sacrifice  of 
a  number  of  their  men. 

Just  below  the  Dalls,  where  the  current  continues  to 
be  strong,  is  a  little  island,  used  by  the  Indians  as  a  place 
of  deposit  for  the  dead.  There  is  something  peculiar  in 
their  manner  of  sepulture.  The  dead  are  taken  to  a  small 
house,  built  on  this  island  for  the  purpose,  and  laid  in  a 
pile  around  the  inside  of  the  house,  the  head  next  to  the 
wall,  and  the  feet  towards  the  center  of  the  building. 
Here  hundreds  have  been  deposited,  forming  a  pile 
several  feet  high. 

The  country  around  the  Dalls  is  valuable,  in  conse- 
quence of  its  adaptation  to  grazing  and  farming  purposes, 
and  the  extensive  salmon  fishery  which  might  here  be 
established.  These  Indians,  with  most  of  the  tribes  of 
Oregon,  are  destined  to  utter  extinction,  and  the  time  is 


160  TOUR    TO  THE   INTERIOR. 

not  far  distant  when  their  country  will  be  occupied  by 
the  descendants  of  the  Pilgrims. 

At  two  o'clock,  we  left  the  Dalls^  and  seven  miles 
brought  us  to  the  shoots,  or  falls  of  the  Columbia,  which 
at  this  stage  of  the  water,  are  about  ten  feet  perpendic- 
ular, but  in  June,  when  the  river  is  high,  the  water  sets 
back  from  the  Dalls  so  that  there  are  no  falls  to  be  seen. 

Arrived  at  the  river  ''  De  Shoots  "  at  five^  p.  m.,  ten 
miles  above  the  Dalls,  and  three  above  the  falls  of  the 
Columbia.  This  river  rises  among  the  mountains  which 
divide  the  Wallamette  and  the  Walla- Walla  countries, 
called  the  Cascade  Range,  and  taking  a  north-easterly 
course  and  watering  a  fertile  valley,  it  forms  a  number 
of  beautiful  cataracts  and  cascades.  It  falls  into  the 
Columbia  one  hundred  and  ninety  miles  from  its  mouth. 
Probably  it  derives  its  name  from  the  fact  that  it  pos- 
sesses numerous  falls,  and  finally  rushes  down  a  ledge  of 
rocks  into  the  Columbia  with  great  violence.  We  found 
it  very  difficult  to  cross ;  but  with  the  help  of  a  few 
Walla-Walla  Indians  whom  we  found  here,  and  a  couple 
of  scoop-shovel  canoes,  we  succeeded  in  crossing  without 
accident,  though,  to  the  inexperienced,  it  would  have 
been  considered  an  enterprise  of  great  peril.  But  the 
crossing  was  not  so  difficult  as  it  was  to  satisfy  the  Indians 
who  assisted  us.  They  wanted  all  we  had,  even  the 
clothes  on  our  backs;  but  we  paid  them  what  we  pleased, 
and  repacking  our  animals,  continued  on  five  miles  farther, 
camping  for  the  night  beside  a  small  rivulet  and  under 
the  lee  of  a  sanddrift  thirty  feet  high.  Sometimes,  in 
the  valley  of  the  Columbia,  the  wind  is  so  strong  that 
the  sand  is  driven  about  like  snow,  the  air  is  full  of  it, 
and  woe  be  to  the  eyes  that  are  compelled  to  meet  the 
beating  storm. 

May  6th.  Journeyed  on,  and  at  eleven,  a.  m.,  came 
to  a  stream  of  water  which  has  received  the  name  of 
John  Day's  river.  It  is  about  twenty  rods  wide  at  its 
mouth,  too  deep  to  ford,  but  easily  crossed  by  swiming, 
in  consequence  of  its  having  but  little  current.  It  derived 
its  cognomen  from  a  remarkable  circumstance  in  the 
historv  of  the  gentleman  whose  name  it  bears. 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  161 

John  Day  was  a  native  of  Kentucky,  and  though  a 
man  of  some  fortune,  and  considerable  talents,  and  might 
have  lived  in  affluence  and  ease  in  his  native  country, 
yet,  from  choice,  he  abandoned  all  the  endearments  of 
civilized  hfe,  and  became  a  rambler  in  the  savage  wilds 
of  the  Rocky  mountains  and  Oregon.  When  Wilson 
Price  Hunt  performed  his  astonishing  journey  from  Mis- 
souri to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river,  John  Day  was 
one  of  his  most  faithful  and  persevering  companions,  and 
suffered  with  him  the  most  surprising  hardships.  Excel- 
ling in  the  qualifications  of  a  hunter,  and  faithful  to  the 
trusts  committed  to  him,  responsibihties  were  thrown 
upon  him  during  that  perilous  journey  which  proved  more 
than  he  was  able  to  bear.  At  Astoria  he  was  appointed 
to  accompany  Robert  Stewart  back  to  Missouri,  on  busi- 
ness of  importance,  but  had  not  proceeded  far  up  the 
Columbia  before  he  became  restless  and  uneasy,  and 
finally  gave  evident  signs  of  insanity.  On  the  evening 
of  the  second  of  July,  1813,  he  attempted  to  destroy 
himself,  but  being  disarmed,  he  sank  into  quiet  and  pro- 
fessed remorse.  He  pretended  to  sleep,  but  just  before 
daylight  he  sprang  up,  siezed  a  pair  of  loaded  pistols, 
and  endeavored  to  blow  out  his  own  brains,  but  he  held 
the  pistols  too  high,  and  the  balls  passed  over  his  head. 
He  was  then  secured  so  that  he  could  not  harm  him- 
self, and  sent  back  to  Astoria.  This  event  happened 
in  the  vicinity  of  this  river.  He  was  taken  back  from 
this  point  in  hopes  that  he  might  recover,  but  his  consti- 
tution was  entirely  broken;  he  lingered  for  a  number  of 
months,  and  died,  evidently  from  the  effects  of  the  hard- 
ships he  had  endured. 

Dined  on  the  bank  of  this  river,  and  conversed  on  the 
perilous  adventures  of  the  mountaineers;  then  resumed 
our  wearisome  journey,  but  found  little  to  interest  us,  or 
to  break  the  monotony  of  the  scenery  along  the  Colum- 
bia. In  the  afternoon,  however,  w^e  were  entertained 
with  the  appearance  of  a  flock  of  sandhill  cranes,  num- 
bering, at  least,  two  thousand,  which  passed  directly 
over  our  heads,  on  their  passage  to  the  mouth.  Two 
large  rattlesnakes  placed  themselves  in  our  path  ;  we 
7* 


IQ^  TOUR    TO    THE    IiNTERIOR. 

examined  them  for  a  moment,  and  then  ''  bruised  then 
heads."  A  few  small  trees  also,  the  like  of  which  I  hav<^ 
never  seen  in  any  country,  were  objects  of  curiosity 
We  passed  a  few  score  of  Indians  during  the  day,  bu 
they  manifested  no  signs  of  hostility,  and  at  night  en 
camped  for  the  Sabbath  about  midway  between  the  Dalls 
and  fort  Walla- Walla. 

Sabbath,  May  7th,  was  an  exceedingly  windy  day,  and 
we  found  it  much  more  pleasant  to  continue  in  camp, 
than  it  would  have  been  to  travel.  Indeed,  I  have  sel- 
dom looked  for  the  day  of  rest  more  anxiously  than  I 
did  the  last  part  of  the  week  past.  Though  we  made 
only  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  during  the  week, 
yet,  from  the  constant  labor  resulting  from  our  mode  of 
traveling,  we  had  become  exceedingly  fatigued,  and  the 
day  in  which  we  are  to  perform  no  servile  work,  was 
most  thankfully  welcomed.  Though  we  were  doomed 
to  spend  it  far  from  the  abodes  of  civilized  man,  yet  it 
brought  with  it  the  most  delightful  associations.  It 
reminded  me  not  only  of  the  completion  of  the  work  of 
creation,  when  the  morning  stars  sang  together,  and  all 
the  sons  of  God  shouted  for  joy,  but  my  mind  was  car- 
ried back  to  him,  who,  ''  though  he  was  rich,  yet  for  our 
sakes  became  poor,  that  we  through  his  poverty  might 
be  made  rich."  I  saw  him  in  my  contemplations  amidst 
all  the  scenes  of  labor  and  suffering  through  which  he 
was  called  to  pass.  The  garden  of  Gethsemene,  the 
judgment  hall,  the  bloody  summit  of  Calvary,  and  the 
crimsoned  cross,  passed  in  review  before  me.  I  heard 
the  Saviour  of  men,  while  his  blood  was  pouring  forth  as 
from  a  high  and  lofty  altar  to  satisfy  the  demands  of 
offended  justice,  when  he  looked  around  upon  his  mur- 
derers and  cried  out,  "It  is  finished."  It  was  not  fancy; 
faith  brought  the  Saviour  near,  and  looked  upon  him  when 
he  bowed  his  head  upon  his  breast  and  gave  up  the  ghost. 
From  the  summit  of  the  blood-stained  mountains,  I  fol- 
lowed him  to  the  sepulchre,  and  here  I  saw  my  Saviour 
under  the  dominion  of  the  grave,  a  captive  to  the  king 
of  terrors.  But  the  third  morning  drew  near,  and  the 
sun  that  sat  in  blood,  arose  in  glory.     The  crucified  Re- 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  163 

deemer,  triumphant   over   death,  and  leading  captivity- 
captive,  received  gifts  for  men, 

"  He  rises  who  mankind  has  bought. 
With  sweat  and  blood  extreme, 
'Twas  great  to  speak  a  world  from  nought, 
'Twas  greater  to  redeem." 

Monday,  8th,  Arose  invigorated  in  body  and  mind, 
and  invoking  the  Divine  blessing  upon  us  in  our  future 
trials,  packed  our  animals  and  w^ound  our  way  along  up 
the  numerous  turns  of  the  Columbia.  The  trail  runs  in 
the  deep  valley  of  the  river  along  the  shore;  this  makes 
the  route  quite  uninteresting.  The  prospect  is  entirely 
broken  off  by  the  tremendous  walls  of  Basalt,  which 
tower  from  four  to  seven  hundred  feet  on  both  sides  of 
the  river.  When  this  wall  approached  the  river  so  as 
not  to  admit  of  the  trail  passing  between  it  and  the 
water,  we  were  obliged  to  climb  this  stupendous  ledge, 
traveling  for  awhile  upon  its  top,  then  clambering  down 
among  the  rocks  till  we  regained  the  lower  valley. 
While  doing  this  we  sometimes  take  alarm  from  the 
fearful  crash  of  a  detached  mass  of  Basalt  as  it  came 
leaping  down  from  the  summit  of  the  precipice.  This 
climbing,  however,  gave  us  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
what  the  country  is  a  little  distance  from  the  river. 
Nothing  can  exceed  the  barrenness  of  the  land.  Though 
the  face  of  the  country  for  a  considerable  distance  from 
the  river  on  each  side,  is  agreeably  diversified  with  hills 
and  valleys,  yet,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  to  the  right 
and  left,  it  is  one  continued  desert  of  sand,  gravel,  and 
rocks.  It  is  said  that  farther  away  from  the  river  than 
we  could  see,  the  land  is  more  fertile,  and  the  grass 
abundant. 

Having  traveled  thirty-six  miles  over  this  desert 
region,  we  stopped  for  the  night  on  the  banks  of  a  beau- 
tiful stream  called  the  Utilla.  Here  we  found  fifteen  or 
twenty  of  the  Walla- Walla  Indians,  exceedingly  squallid 
in  their  appearance,  and  living  on  the  fish  they  caught 
in  the  stream.  These  fish  are  a  species  of  the  salmon, 
and  we  succeeded  in  getting  enough  for  our  supper  and 


164  TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR. 

breakfast.  The  land  on  this  river  is  more  fertile,  and 
grows  better  as  you  go  up  the  stream. 

Next  morning,  at  the  rising  of  the  sun,  we  left  our 
attendants  with  the  pack  animals,  and  proceeded  on 
ahead,  determined,  if  possible,  to  reach  the  mission  sta- 
tion at  Waialetpu,  on  the  Walla- Walla  river,  the  same 
day.  Passed  Fort  Walla- Walla  at  twelve,  and  arrived 
at  Dr.  Whitman's  at  five,  having  traveled  fifty  miles 
since  we  mounted  in  the  morning.  We  were  received 
with  great  cordiality  by  Mrs.  Whitman  and  Mr.  Giger, 
Dr.  Whitman  being  absent  on  a  tour  to  the  United 
States.  They  had  heard  we  were  coming,  and  were 
looking  for  us  with  great  anxiety.  We  soon  learned 
that  the  reports  in  the  lower  country  about  war,  that 
had  produced  such  an  excitement,  were  not  without 
foundation  :  the  Kayuse  Indians,  among  whom  this 
mission  is  established,  had  freely  communicated  to  Mr. 
Giger,  whom  they  esteemed  as  their  friend,  all  they 
knew  concerning  it. 

When  the  Indians  were  first  told  that  the  Americans 
were  designing  to  subjugate  them,  and  take  away  their 
lands,  the  young  chiefs  of  the  Kayuse  tribe  were  in 
favor  of  proceeding  immediately  to  hostilities.  They 
were  for  raising  a  large  war  party,  and,  rushing  directly 
down  to  the  Wallamette  settlement,  cut  off  the  inhabit- 
ants at  a  blow.  The  old  chiefs  were  of  a  different 
opinion  ;  they  suggested  more  cautious  measures.  Ta- 
king into  consideration  the  difficulty,  at  that  season  of 
the  year,  of  marching  a  large  party  the  distance  of 
three  or  four  hundred  miles  through  a  wide  range  of 
mountains,  covered  with  snow,  they  advised  all  the 
Indians  to  wait  until  they  should  obtain  more  information 
concerning  the  designs  of  the  Americans.  They  also 
thought  that  it  would  not  be  wisdom  in  them,  in  any 
case,  to  commence  an  offensive  war,  but  to  prepare 
themselves  for  a  vigorous  defence  against  any  attack. 
They  frequently  remarked  to  Mr.  Giger,  that  they  did 
not  wish  to  go  to  war,  but  if  the  Americans  came  to 
take  away  their  lands,  and  bring  them  into  a  state  of 
vassalage,  they  would  fight  so  long  as  they  had  a  drop 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  165 

of  blood  to  shed.  They  said  they  had  received  their 
information  concerning  the  designs  of  the  Americans 
from  Baptiste  Dorio.  This  individual,  vs^ho  is  a  half- 
breed,  son  of  Madame  Dorio,  the  heroine  of  Washington 
Irving's  Astoria,  understands  the  Nez  Perce  langauge 
M^ell,  and  had  given  the  Kayuses  the  information  that  had 
alarmed  them.  Mr.  Giger  endeavored  to  induce  them 
to  prepare,  early  in  the  spring,  to  cultivate  the  ground 
as  they  did  the  year  before,  but  they  refused  to  do  any- 
thing, saying  that  Baptiste  Dorio  had  told  them  that  it 
vi^ould  be  of  no  consequence  ;  that  the  whites  would 
come  in  the  summer,  and  kill  them  all  off,  and  destroy 
their  plantations. 

After  Dorio  had  told  them  this  story,  they  sent  a 
Walla- Walla  chief,  called  Yellow  Serpent,  to  Vancouver, 
to  learn  from  Doctor  McLaughlin  the  facts  in  the  case. 
Yellow  Serpent  returned  and  told  the  Kayuses  that  Dr. 
McLaughlin  said  he  had  nothing  to  do  in  a  war  with  the 
Indians  ;  that  he  did  not  believe  the  Americans  designed 
to  attack  them,  and  that,  if  the  Americans  did  go  to 
war  with  the  Indians,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  would 
not  assist  them.  After  they  got  this  information  from 
the  hias  (great)  Doctor,  the  Indians  became  more  calm  ; 
many  of  them  went  to  cultivating  the  ground  as  for- 
merly, and  a  large  number  of  little  patches  had  been 
planted  and  sown,  before  we  arrived  at  the  station. 

The  Kayuses  were  principally  encamped  along  the 
base  of  the  Blue  mountains,  a  few  miles  east  of  Dr. 
Whitman's  house  ;  and  after  we  had  obtained  all  the 
information  we  could  from  Mrs.  Whitman  and  Mr.  Gi- 
ger, concerning  the  state  of  things  among  them,  we 
sent  them  word  that  we  had  come,  and  desired  to  see 
them.  We  also  sent  the  chiefs  word  that  we  desired 
them  to  make  arrangements  to  have  all  their  people 
meet  us  at  the  mission  on  the  following  Friday,  to  hav^ 
a  talk. 

The  chiefs  came  to  see  us  at  Dr.  Whitman's,  and  told 
the  story  of  their  grievances,  and  said  that  they  desired 
to  have  the  difficulty  settled.  They  said  it  would  not 
be  convenient  for  the  people  to  come  together  so  soon 


166  TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR. 

as  we  desired,  as  many  of  them  were  off  among  the 
mountains,  hunting  elk.  As  they  must  be  informed  of 
the  meeting,  it  would  be  several  days  before  the  people 
could  get  together.  We  ascertained,  however,  that  this 
was  a  mere  pretence.  They  had  been  informed  that 
Ellis,  the  Nez  Perce  chief,  was  coming  down  to  meet  us 
on  their  ground,  and  this  had  determined  them  not  to 
have  any  meeting  until  EUis  should  arrive.  But  as  we 
had  learned  that  Ellis  was  coming  with  his  warriors, 
consisting  of  several  hundred — for  what  purpose  we 
could  not  ascertain,  some  saying  to  make  war  upon  the 
Kay  uses — we  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  meeting 
of  the  two  tribes  should,  if  possible,  be  prevented. 

While  considering  this  subject,  we  were  solicited  by 
the  chiefs  to  take  a  ride  among  the  Indian  plantations. 
Accordingly,  a  party  was  made  out  which  would  have 
made  all  the  sacerdotal  order  laugh  to  contemplate. 
The  captain  of  the  party  was  a  Kayuse  chief,  by  the 
name  of  Feathercap  :  and  of  all  the  Indians  I  have  seen 
he  has  a  countenance  the  most  savage.  But,  with  this, 
there  is  a  dignity  and  decision  manifested  in  his  move- 
ments, which  might  put  many  a  white  man  to  the  blush. 
He  is  about  five  feet  ten  inches  high ;  has  a  voice  of  the 
stentorian  order,  and  possesses  all  the  native  character- 
istics of  an  orator. 

His  dress  was  quite  fantastical,  being  composed  of 
skin  breeches,  a  striped  shirt,  which  he  wore  over  his 
breeches,  and  a  scarlet  coat,  gilted  off  very  much  in  the 
fashion  of  the  regimentals  of  a  British  general.  His 
head-dress  was  composed,  first  of  a  cotton  handkerchief 
thrown  loosely  over  his  head,  then  a  cap  made  of  otter 
skin  over  the  handkerchief,  and  on  the  top  of  the  cap, 
fastened  with  savage  taste,  the  long  hair  of  a  white 
horse's  tail,  which  hung  in  ringlets  down  the  backside 
of  his  neck.  Thus  rigged,  he  was  prepared  to  guide  us 
on  our  tour  of  pleasure.  An  Indian  woman  and  her 
daughter  joined  our  party,  of  whom  mention  has  been 
made  in  another  part  of  this  narrative.  The  old  woman 
lived  many  years  with  Thomas  McKay,  but  he  finally 
cast  her  off,  and  she  is  now  the  wife  of  an  old  half-breed 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  167 

Iroquois,  by  the  name  of  Jo-Gray.  Her  daughter  is  the 
wife  of  Charles  Roe.  They  both  live  in  the  lower 
country,  but  w^ere  up  on  a  visit  to  their  relatives  among 
the  Indians.  Their  dresses  were  an  imitation  of  the 
Boston  fashions,  but  were  much  defiled  by  the  smoke, 
dirt,  and  grease  of  wigwams.  They  were  both  astride 
their  horses,  the  younger  carrying  her  little  son  before 
her. 

There  were  also  three  other  Indians,  without  note- 
worthy peculiarities.  Mr.  Giger,  who  is  a  small  man, 
mounted  a  donkey  which  was  about  the  size  of  a  New- 
foundland dog,  and  exceedingly  antic,  just  having  re- 
cruited from  a  journey  across  the  Rocky  mountains.  In 
addition  to  these,  Mrs.  Whitman,  Dr.  White  and  myself 
made  up  the  party.  Feathercap  led  us  about  one  mile, 
across  a  low  piece  of  fertile  ground,  when  we  arrived  at 
the  nearest  plantations.  We  ascertained  that  about 
sixty  of  the  Kayuses  had  commenced  cultivating  the 
ground.  They  each  have  fenced  around  a  small  piece 
of  ground,  from  one-fourth  of  an  acre,  to  three  acres, 
and  each  one  is  entitled  only  to  what  he  raises  himself. 
They  had  in  the  ground  wheat,  corn,  peas  and  potatoes. 
Many  of  the  places  were  well  fenced  and  well  cultivated, 
and  the  crops  looked  flourishing.  The  Indians  appeared 
highly  pleased  that  we  went  out  to  see  their  farms,  and 
told  us  they  were  very  glad  that  they  had  been  learned 
to  till  the  ground.  They  have  already  learned  that  theii 
livelihood,  which  previously  was  very  precarious,  by 
their  little  farms,  is  fully  secured  to  them.  This,  they 
say,  makes  their  hearts  glad. 

Our  motley  party  proceeded  in  high  glee,  alternately 
conversing  in  the  EngHsh,  Chenook,  and  Walla- Walla 
languages,  and  remarking  upon  whatever  presented  itself 
before  us.  The  little  man  on  the  Mas  tenas  (very  little) 
mule,  was  the  subject  of  much  amusement  with  the 
Indians  ;  and  in  the  novelty  and  excitement  of  our  little 
excursion,  the  subject  of  war  and  blood  was  entirely 
forgotten.  We  passed  pleasantly  along,  now  crossing 
a  beautiful  plain,  blooming  with  flowers,  which  sent 
forth  their  rich  odors  upon  the  breeze  ;    now  penetrating 


168  TOUR    TO    THE   INTERIOR. 

the  small  thickets  of  servill,  chokecherry,  thorn  and 
rose  bushes  ;  and  now  fording  little  brooks  of  pure, 
limpid  water,  which  came  leaping  down  from  the  blue 
mountains,  until  we  had  traveled  the  distance  of  eight 
miles  in  a  circuitous  route.  We  then  found  ourselves 
very  unexpectedly  back  to  the  point  whence  we  started, 
all  prepared  for  a  consultation  concerning  the  Indian 
war. 

As  there  was  a  large  party  of  the  Kayuses  and  Walla- 
Walla  Indians  encamped  on  the  head  waters  of  the 
Utilla,  about  fifty  miles  from  Dr.  Whitman's,  embracing 
some  of  the  principal  chiefs,  Mr.  Perkins  was  desired  to 
go  out,  and  invite  them  to  come  in  so  as  to  be  at  the 
meeting,  subsequently  to  be  held  at  the  mission  station. 
Not  knowing  the  way,  he  procured  an  Indian  guide,  and 
started  off  with  no  other  person  to  accompany  him. 
Travehng  through  a  beautiful  country,  well  adapted  to 
pastoral  pursuits,  towards  evening  he  arrived  at  the 
Utilla,  where  he  expected  to  find  the  Indians,  but  they 
had  removed  to  another  place  about  twenty  miles  farther 
off.  Inasmuch  as  he  had  no  provision,  and  no  means  of 
kindling  a  fire,  and  there  being  no  signs  of  Indian  habit- 
ations in  the  vicinity,  he  resolved  to  proceed  to  camp, 
though  in  doing  so,  he  was  obliged  to  cross  the  stream. 
He  asked  the  guide  where  the  crossing  place  was,  and 
was  told  that  it  was  just  before  him.  He  tried  to  get 
the  Indian  to  go  in  first  and  see  how  deep  the  water 
was,  but  the  Indian  refused,  saying  he  was  afraid.  Mr. 
Perkins  then  rode  his  horse  in,  but  soon  found  the  water 
so  deep  that  the  horse  was  obliged  to  swim.  But  now 
it  was  as  easy  to  go  ahead  as  to  turn  about,  and  urging 
his  horse  a  little,  he  was  borne  through  the  rapid  stream 
in  safety,  to  the  opposite  shore. 

His  guide,  frightened  at  the  idea  of  passing  the  stream 
in  the  same  manner,  could  not  be  induced  to  follow,  and 
making  an  excuse  that  he  did  not  know  the  way,  deserted 
him,  and  went  back.  Luckily,  however,  Mr.  Perkins 
discovered  an  Indian  not  far  distant,  driving  some  horses, 
and  of  him  he  learned  where  he  should  find  the  trail  that 
kcd  to  the  Indian  camp.      He  pushed  on  at  full  speed,  and 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  169 

arrived  there  just  after  dark,  having  rode  since  ten  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  the  distance  of  seventy  miles.  Here  he 
found  three  chiefs  by  the  name  of  Tauitau,  Yellow  Ser- 
pent, and  Five  Crows,  The  last  has  recently  professed 
conversion  to  the  protestant  religion,  and  the  first  has 
become  a  Catholic.  Yellow  Serpent  is  favorable  to  the 
Protestant  missions,  but  does  not  give  as  good  evidence 
of  conversion  as  Five  Crows.  Yellow  Serpent  is  the 
principal  chief  of  the  Walla- Walla  tribe,  the  other  two 
are  brothers,  and  chiefs  of  the  Kayuse. 

The  son  of  Yellow  Serpent  was  also  with  him.  He 
has  spent  a  number  of  years  in  the  Methodist  mission 
school,  on  the  Wallamette  river,  where  he  received  the 
name  of  Elijah  Heading,  and  where  he  acquired  some 
knowledge  of  the  English  language,  and  professed  con- 
version to  Christianity.  Mr.  Perkins  put  up  for  the  night 
at  Yellow  Serpent's  lodge.  Supper  was  served  of  dried 
salmon,  after  which  prayer  was  proposed  by  Elijah. 
They  sang  a  hymn,  and  Mr.  Perkins  led  in  prayer,  and 
was  followed  by  Elijah,  who,  after  he  had  concluded, 
requested  his  father  to  pray.  This  ended,  they  sung 
another  hymn,  and  prepared  to  sleep.  Mr.  Perkins 
having  wet  his  blankets  in  swimming  the  river,  had  none 
to  sleep  in,  but  Yellow  Serpent,  taking  his  own  blanket 
from  his  shoulders,  gave  it  to  him,  saying  that  he  had  no 
blankets,  but  would  make  him  as  comfortable  as  he  could. 
Wrapped  in  the  Indian's  blanket,  he  composed  himself  to 
sleep. 

The  next  morning,  quite  early,  he  called  at  Tauitau's 
lodge,  and  was  informed,  on  entering,  that  they  had  not 
yet  had  their  morning  prayers.  The  chief  caused  a  bell 
to  be  rung,  at  the  sQund  of  which  all  his  band  came 
together  for  devotion.  Tauitau  then  said  to  Mr.  Perkins, 
"  We  are  Catholics,  and  our  worship  is  different  from 
yours."  He  then  fell  upon  his  knees,  all  the  rest  kneeling 
and  facing  him.  The  chief  had  a  long  string  of  beads 
on  his  neck,  to  which  was  attached  a  brass  cross.  After 
all  were  knelt,  they  devoutly  crossed  themselves,  and 
commenced  their  prayers  as  follows:  "  We  are  poor,  we 
are  poor,"  repeating  it  ten  times,  and  then  closing  with, 


170  TOUR    TO  THE    INTERIOR. 

"Good  Father,  good  Son,  good  Spirit,"  and  then  the 
chief  would  sHp  a  bead  on  the  string.  This  was  contin- 
ued until  all  the  beads  were  removed  from  one  part  of 
the  string  to  the  other.  When  their  devotions  closed, 
Tauitau  said,  ''  This  is  the  way  in  which  the  priest  taught 
us  to  worship  God,"  but  Elijah  said  that  "  Tauitau  and 
his  band  prayed  from  the  head,  but  we  pray  from  the 
heart.  Bidding  them  good  morning,  Mr.  Perkins  moun- 
ted his  horse,  and  at  evening  arrived  in  safety  at  the 
mission. 

Friday,  12th.  As  the  Indians  refused  to  come  together 
unless  Ellis  and  his  men  came  down  to  meet  them,  we 
informed  them  that  we  should  go  up  and  see  Elhs  in  his 
own  country,  but  being  suspicious  that  we  intended  to 
prevent  his  coming  down,  they  were  much  opposed  to 
our  going.  Explaining  to  the  chiefs  the  object  of  our 
visit,  they  seemed  to  be  satisfied,  and  we  went  about 
preparing  for  the  continuance  of  our  journey. 

At  five,  p.  M.,  all  were  ready,  and  we  started  off  on 
a  round  gallop  in  a  northeasterly  direction,  and  the  sun 
went  down  beneath  the  waters  of  the  Pacific.  The 
light  of  the  moon  enabled  us  to  keep  along  the  winding 
trail  as  it  led  us  over  a  beautifully  undulating  country, 
till  eleven  o'clock  at  night,  when  we  camped  on  a  small 
rivulet  called  the  Toosha,  forty-five  miles  from  where 
we  started.  Next  morning  at  sunrise  proceeded.  At 
noon  encamped  on  another  little  stream,  having  traveled 
thirty-five  miles.  Rested  for  an  hour,  and  continued  our 
course  through  an  exceedingly  romantic  country.  At 
five,  p.  M.,  arrived  at  the  Snake  or  Lewis  river,  where  a 
portion  of  the  Nez.  Perse  tribe  reside,  headed  by  one 
whom  they  call  "  Red  Wolf" 

The  village  is  situated  on  a  small  inchned  plain,  quite 
fertile,  but  the  country  round  about  is  very  rocky  and 
mountainous.  The  valleys,  however,  afford  abundant 
grass  to  supply  the  numerous  horses  owned  by  the 
Indians.  Red  Wolf,  in  more  than  one  instance,  has 
prov^ed  himself  a  friend  to  the  Americans.  When  Capt. 
Bonneville  was  in  this  country,  many  years  ago,  in  his 
trade  with  the  Indians,  he  met  with  violent  opposition 


TOUR    TO    THd    INTERIOR,  171 

from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  was  compelled 
to  leave  that  portion  under  the  control  of  the  company. 
But,  in  his  attempt  to  do,  he  lost  his  way,  and  wandered 
about  until  he  and  his  men  were  reduced  to  a  starving 
state.  Fortunately,  he  struck  a  trail  that  led  him  to  the 
lodge  of  Red  Woff,  and  he  immediately  told  the  chief 
of  his  great  distress.  Red  Wolf  was  moved  by  the 
story,  and  ordered  a  horse  to  be  butchered  without 
delay.  Bonneville  and  his  men  feasted  themselves  to 
their  entire  satisfaction;  and  when  they  were  ready  to 
leave,  they  were  supplied  with  a  guide,  and  provision 
for  their  journey. 

From  Dr.  Whitman's  to  Red  Wolf's  place  it  is  one 
hundred  miles;  and  having  traveled  it  in  one  day,  our 
horses  were  leg  weary.  Consequently,  we  turned  them 
loose  among  the  hills  to  remain  till  we  returned,  and 
obtained  fresh  ones  of  Red  Wolf,  for  the  prosecution 
of  our  journey.  It  was  twenty-five  miles  from  Red 
W^olf's  to  the  mission  station  among  the  Nez  Perces, 
under  the  care  of  Rev.  Mr.  Spaulding  and  the  sun  was 
two  hours  high;  the  trail  was  difficult  in  some  places, 
but  the  horses  were  as  light-footed  as  antelopes.  Red 
Wolf  had  volunteered  to  accompany  us,  and  crossing 
the  river,  swimming  our  horses  in  the  rear  of  our  canoe, 
we  each  one  mounted  the  animal  designated  by  the  chief, 
and  himself  taking  the  lead,  we  measured  off  the  ground 
with  wonderful  rapidity.  We  passed  a  number  of  small 
villages,  and  found  the  vaUies  which  were  fertile,  aston- 
ishingly filled  with  horses.  From  one  eminence  could 
be  seen  not  less  than  one  thousand.  But  Red  Wolf  led 
us  on  with  such  astonishing  swiftness  that  we  had 
scarcely  time  to  cast  a  glance  at  the  Indians,  horses, 
rivers,  mountains,  &c.,  by  which  the  scenery  of  our 
route  was  diversified,  and  which  we  left  one  after  another 
in  quick  succession  far  in  the  rear.  Just  as  the  sun  was 
setting  we  brought  up  on  Clear  Water  River,  on  the  side 
opposite  the  house  of  Rev.  Mr.  Spaulding.  We  had 
traveled  twenty-five  miles  in  two  hours,  and  sixty  miles 
since  we  dined  at  twelve  o'clock.  Hailing  across  the 
river,  Mr.  Spaulding  came  over  in  a  small  canoe,  and 


172  TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR. 

took  us  and  our  baggage  over,  and,  with  his  wife,  and 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Littlejohn,  gave  us  a  most  cordial  and 
hearty  welcome  to  their  isolated  home. 

Sunday,  14th.  Some  two  hundred  Indians,  of  all  ages, 
met  in  the  rear  of  Mr.  Spaulding's  house  for  religious 
worship.  They  behaved  with  great  propriety,  and  some 
of  them  gave  good  evidence  of  genuine  conversion.  Mr. 
Spaulding  had  received  three  of  them  into  church  fellow- 
ship, two  of  them  chiefs,  by  the  name  of  Joseph  and 
Timothy;  and  thirty  others  stood  propounded  for  mem- 
bership. According  to  arrangement,  these  were  to  be 
received  on  the  Sabbath  after  our  arrival.  Being  exam- 
ined according  to  the  order  of  the  Presbyterian  church, 
and  giving  satisfaction  as  to  their  religious  experience, 
they  and  their  children  received  baptism,  and  they  be- 
came members  of  Christ's  visible  church. 

In  the  evening  it  fell  to  my  lot  to  preach  to  the  few 
Americans  who  providentially  had  been  thus  thrown 
together.  This  is  evidently  the  most  promising  Indian 
mission  in  Oregon. 

Monday,  15th.  CHmbed  to  the  top  of  a  mountain, 
twenty-two  hundred  feet  high,  which  overlooks  the  valley 
of  Sapwai,  and  enables  one  to  trace  the  windings  of 
Clear  Water,  for  several  miles.  We  started  a  number 
of  large  rocks  down  the  precipitous  sides  of  the  moun- 
tain towards  the  river,  but  on  descending  found  that  our 
sport  was  not  gratuitous.  Some  Indians  had  just  come 
up  the  trail  on  horseback,  and  a  fragment  of  one  of  the 
rocks  had  struck  a  horse's  leg  and  broken  it.  But  the  horse 
being  not  very  valuable,  the  matter  was  easily  adjusted. 

When  we  arrived,  Ellis,  with  some  hundreds  of  his 
people,  was  fifty  or  sixty  miles  off,  and  a  letter  was  sent 
to  him  to  come  down  and  meet  us. 

Tuesday,  16th.  Joseph,  who  is  second  to  Ellis  in  the 
chieftainship,  made  a  martial  display  of  his  band,  in  a 
Httle  plain  in  the  rear  of  the  house,  where  he  entertained 
us  with  a  sham  fight.  We  estimated  the  number  under 
Joseph  at  seven  hundred.  Arrayed  in  their  war  dress, 
they  made  a  very  savage,  not  to  say  imposing,  appear- 
ance. 


TOUR    lO    THE    INTERIOR.  173 

Wednesday,  17th.  Joseph  called  out  his  band  and 
awaited  the  arrival  of  ElHs.  We  were  requested  to 
take  our  places  in  the  front  ranks  of  Joseph's  band,  in 
the  centre,  and  soon  appeared,  coming  over  the  moun- 
tain, behind  which  had  been  waiting,  a  cloud  of  Indians, 
that  spread  itself  over  its  sides.  The  mountain  seemed 
aUve,  as  hundreds  of  Indians  came  moving  towards  the 
valley.  They  were  all  mounted  on  their  best  horses, 
and  these  were  ornamented  with  scarlet  belts  and  head 
dresses,  while  tassels  dangled  from  their  ears.  They  ar- 
rived on  the  borders  of  the  plain,  and  the  two  bands  were 
separated  from  each  other  about  fifty  rods,  and  now  the 
scene  that  presented  itself  beggars  description.  A  thou- 
sand savages  rushed  into  all  the  manoevers  of  a  deadly 
fight,  while  the  roar  of  musketry,  the  shrill  sound  of  the 
war  whistle,  the  horrible  yelling,  and  the  dashing  too  and 
fro  upon  their  fiery  steeds,  which  continued  for  half  an 
hour,  and  approached  us  nearer  and  nearer  until  the 
froth  from  their  horse's  nostrils  w^ould  fly  into  our  faces 
as  they  passed — these,  with  the  savage  pomposity  with 
which  they  were  caparisoned,  and  the  frightful  manner 
in  which  they  were  daubed  with  paint,  their  fiery  visa- 
ges being  striped  with  red,  black,  white,  and  yellow, 
were  all  calculated  not  only  to  inspire  terror,  but  a  dread 
of  savage  fury  in  the  mind  of  every  beholder.  At  the 
very  height  of  the  excitement,  when  it  appeared  that  the 
next  whirl  of  the  savage  cavalry  would  trample  us  all 
beneath  their  feet,  Ellis  stretched  himself  up  to  his 
utmost  height  upon  the  back  of  his  splendid  charger,  and 
waving  his  hand  over  the  dark  mass,  instantly  all  was 
quiet,  and  the  terrifying  yell  of  the  savage  was  succeeded 
by  profound  silence.  All  dismounted,  and  the  chiefs  and 
principal  men,  shook  hands  with  us,  in  token  of  friend- 
ship. All  again  mounted,  ourselves  joining  the  troop  on 
horses  provided  by  the  Indians  for  our  use,  and  they 
marched  us  back  over  the  hill  to  a  Httle  plain  beyond, 
for  the  purpose  of  entertaining  us  with  a  still  farther 
exhibition  of  their  customs. 

Connected  with  Ellis's  band  were  some  braves  whom 
the   whole   nation   delight   to   honor.       The   Blaekfeet 


174  TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR. 

Indians  have  always  been  the  deadly  enemies  of  the 
Nez  Perces,  and  of  all  the  braves,  none  are  honored  so 
much  as  those  who  have  killed  Blackfeet.  One  of  them 
then  present,  has  killed  twelve  with  his  own  hands, 
taken  their  scalps  and  muskets,  and  brought  them  as 
trophies  to  his  lodge.  This  he  had  done  to  revenge  the 
death  of  an  only  brother,  who,  according  to  his  story, 
was  treacherously  murdered  by  the  Blackfeet.  A  large 
circle  was  formed  around  this  brave,  he  occupying  the 
centre  of  the  circle,  bearing  on  one  arm  the  muskets  he 
had  captured  from  the  enemy,  and  hanging  on  the  other 
the  scalps  he  had  taken.  He  displayed  these  trophies 
before  the  multitude,  and  at  the  same  time,  gave  a  history 
of  the  manner  in  which  each  one  was  taken.  Ellis  said 
he  was  the  greatest  brave  in  the  nation,  and  they  always 
honor  him  in  this  way.  A  terrible  battle  had  been  re- 
cently fought  by  a  party  of  the  Nez  Perces  with  a  party 
of  Blackfeet,  in  which  the  former  were  victorious.  This 
battle  was  acted  to  the  life,  with  the  exception  that  no 
blood  was  shed.  The  scene  then  closed  with  a  war 
dance,  conducted  by  a  chief  whom  the  whites  designate 
by  the  name  of  "  Lawyer,"  and  in  whom  is  combined 
the  cunning  and  shrewdness  of  the  Indian,  with  the 
ability  and  penetration  of  the  statesman. 

Though  this  savage  "training"  was  more  exciting  than 
any  martial  display  I  had  ever  witnessed,  yet  it  closed 
up  quietly  and  peacefully,  and  as  it  had  been  conducted 
upon  strictly  temperance  principles,  all  retired  from  the 
scene  perfectly  sober.  At  dark,  of  the  thousand  Indians 
present  during  the  day,  scarcely  one  was  to  be  seen 
outside  of  his  lodge. 

Ascertaining  from  Ellis  that  he  designed  to  go  down 
to  meet  the  Kayuses  when  we  returned,  with  some  of  his 
men,  for  the  purpose  of  inducing  them  to  accept  of  the 
laws  which  the  Nez  Perces  had  received,  and  with  which 
they  were  well  pleased,  we  waived  our  objections  against 
his  going,  and  on  Thursday,  the  18th,  prepared  to  take 
our  departure. 

Here  I  would  take  occasion  to  observe,  that  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Spaulding  and  his  worthy  companion  are  laboring 


m  TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  175 

faithfully  for  both  the  spiritual  and  temporal  good  of  this 
people,  and  in  no  place  have  I  seen  more  visible  fruits 
of  labor  thus  bestowed.  There  are  few  missionaries  in 
any  part  of  the  world  more  worthy  of  the  confidence 
of  the  church  that  employs  them,  than  these  self-sacri- 
ficing servants  of  Jesus  Christ.  Far  away  from  all 
civilized  society,  and  depending  for  their  safety  from  the 
fury  of  excited  savages,  alone  in  the  protection  of 
Heaven,  they  are  entitled  to  the  sympathies  and  prayers 
of  the  whole  christian  church.  Bidding  them  farewell, 
we  re-crossed  the  Clear- Water,  where  our  horses  were 
in  waiting,  rode  back  to  Red  Wolf's  place,  and  slept. 

Next  morning  sent  an  Indian  out  among  the  hills  to 
hunt  for  our  horses,  and  as  we  were  finishing  our  break- 
fast, which  our  boys  had  prepared  for  us.  Red  Wolf 
came  out  of  his  lodge  and  rung  a  large  hand-bell,  to  call 
the  Indians  from  the  other  lodges  to  their  morning 
prayers.  All  assembled  to  the  number  of  one  hundred, 
an  exhortation  or  harangue  w^as  given  them  by  one  of 
the  chiefs,  and  then  singing  a  hymn  in  the  Indian  tongue, 
two  engaged  in  prayer.  I  was  greatly  surprised,  in 
traveling  through  the  Indian  country,  to  find  that  these 
outward  forms  of  Christianity  are  observed  in  almost 
every  lodge.  The  Indians  generally  are  nominally  chris- 
tian, and  about  equally  divided  betwixt  the  Protestant 
and  Catholic  religion. 

At  eight  o'clock,  a  hallooing  upon  the  side  of  the 
mountain  indicated  that  our  horses  were  found,  and 
would  soon  be  at  our  camp.  Packing,  saddling,  and 
bridling  were  done  in  short  order,  and,  Mr.  Spaulding 
joining  our  party,  we  soon  left  the  valley  of  the  Snake 
River  behind  us.  Examining  the  country  more  critically 
on  our  return  than  when  we  went  out,  we  found  it  to 
be  indescribably  beautiful  and  picturesque,  sometimes 
rising  into  the  romantic  and  sublime,  and  generally  well 
adapted  to  all  pastoral  purposes.  No  timber  of  any 
consequence  appeared,  except  on  the  banks  of  the 
streams.  Crossing  the  Tookaran,  and  Toosha,  we  stop- 
ped for  supper  on  a  beautiful  brook,  called  Imaispa.  We 
found  we  had  barely  provisions  enough  for  this  meal, 


176  TOUR    TO    THE    INTJERIOR.  « 

and  two  of  us  resolved  to  proceed,  rather  than  go  hun- 
gry all  the  next  day.  Letting  our  horses  crop  the  grass 
for  an  hour,  we  traveled  on  ;  Mr.  Perkins  and  Mr. 
Spaulding  preferring  to  remain  where  they  were  till 
morning.  At  daybreak  we  arrived  at  Dr.  Whitman's, 
having  set  upon  our  horses  all  night. 

During  our  absence  the  Kayuses  had  all  collected 
within  a  few  miles  of  Dr.  Whitman's,  and  were  prepar- 
ing for  the  great  meeting  with  the  Nez  Perces,  on  our 
return. 

On  Saturday,  20th,  Ellis,  with  three  hundred  of  his 
people,  arrived,  and  camped  within  a  short  distance  of 
the  mission.  Wearied  out  by  excessive  labor,  we  put 
off  the  meeting  of  the  two  tribes  until  the  ensuing 
week. 

Sunday  morning  about  one  hundred  Indians  assembled 
at  the  mission  for  religious  worship,  and  were  addressed 
by  ail  the  missionaries  present.  In  the  afternoon  I 
walked  out  on  the  plain  a  short  distance,  and  soon  found 
myself  on  a  little  rise  of  ground,  where  were  two 
graves,  one  of  which  was  inclosed  in  a  picket.  Inquir- 
ing who  was  buried  there,  my  attendant  replied,  ''  The 
grave  inside  the  picket  is  that  of  the  only  child,  a  Httle 
daughter,  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Whitman,  who  was  drowned 
in  that  creek  which  passes  near  the  house.  That  on  the 
outside  incloses  the  remains  of  Joseph,  the  Hawaiian, 
who  lived  with  Dr.  Whitman  a  number  of  years,  and 
served  him  faithfully  while  he  lived."  This  Hawaiian 
was  a  converted  man,  and  possessing  considerable  talent, 
he  was  very  useful  to  the  mission.  Though  he  was  a 
great  lover  of  the  Indians,  and  would  do  all  he  could  for 
their  welfare,  yet,  when  lie  died,  not  one  of  them  could 
be  prevailed  upon  to  assist  in  carrying  him  to  the  grave; 
but  Dr.  Whitman,  and  Mr.  Pombrun,  of  Fort  Walla- 
Walla,  bore  him  upon  their  shoulders  to  the  house 
appointed  for  all  the  living. 

I  returned  from  this  excursion  reflecting  upon  the 
severe  trials  of  missionaries,  many  of  whom  are  com- 
pelled to  bury  their  offspring  with  their  own  hands. 

Preached  in  the  afternoon  to  seven  Americans,  two 


*  TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  177 

of  whom  came  in  from  their  camp,  three  miles  distant, 
where  they  were  preparing  to  cross  the  mountains  to 
the  United  States.  One  of  these,  Wm.  C.  Sutton,  is 
truly  ''  a  brand  plucked  from  the  burning."  For  three 
years  he  has  been  a  living  Avitness  of  the  power  of  the 
gospel  to  save  even  the  chief  of  sinners.  He  hved  for 
many  years  in  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  contracted  all 
the  vices  common  to  the  mountaineers  ;  but  abandoning 
the  trapper's  life,  and  coming  down  among  the  mission- 
aries in  the  lower  country,  he  was  powerfully  awakened 
to  see  the  folly  of  his  former  course,  and  after  struggHng 
for  days  on  the  brink  of  despair,  was  brought  ''from 
darkness  to  light,  and  from  the  power  of  Satan  to  the 
living  God." 

Monday,  22d.  We  were  visited  by  a  number  of 
Indians  in  the  morning,  among  whom  was  one  by  the 
name  of  Jacob,  whose  history  is  a  clear  exhibition  of 
the  cunning  and  wonderful  credulity  of  the  Indians.  By 
some  means  he  obtained  a  lai'ge  picture  from  the  whites, 
which  he  was  told  represented  the  devil,  and  Indian 
shrewdness  at  once  suggested  to  him  that  he  could  use 
the  picture  greatly  to  his  advantage  among  his  people, 
who  had  always  believed  that  an  evil  spirit  existed,  and 
had  much  to  do  in  inflicting  misery  upon  the  Indians. 
Taking  good  care  to  keep  his  picture  concealed,  and 
preparing  the  way  for  the  people  to  receive  him  in  his 
supernatural  character,  by  spending  much  of  his  time 
alone,  apparently  in  solemn  thought,  and  in  performing 
his  conjurations,  he  at  length  gave  out  that  he  had  Dia- 
holus  under  his  control,  and  could  bring  him  up  at  any 
time,  in  the  sight  of  the  people.  To  prove  his  assertion, 
he  left  the  camp,  charging  the  people  to  watch  him,  and 
as  he  went  behind  a  little  breastwork,  several  rods  off, 
which  he  had  prepared  for  the  occasion,  to  keep  their 
eyes  fixed  upon  the  top  of  the  breastwork.  Performing 
his  incantations  awhile,  at  length  Diaholus  appeared  to 
the  terrified  Indians,  rising  slowly  above  the  breastwork. 
Jacob  had  accomplished  his  object,  proved  himself  mas- 
ter of  the  Devil,  and  by  this  manoeuver  secured  to  him- 
self unbounded  influence  among  his  people. 
8 


178  TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  * 

During  the  day,  Nez  Perce  Indians  continued  to 
arrive,  until  six  hundred  people,  and  a  thousand  horses, 
appeared  on  the  plains.  The  Kayuse  and  Walla- Walla 
bands  united,  forming  a  troop  of  three  hundred  men,  all 
mounted.  These  met  the  Nez  Perces  on  the  plain  in 
front  of  Dr.  Whitman's  house,  and  then  a  scene  similar 
to  that  at  Lapwai,  presented  itself.  The  Indians  worked 
themselves  up  into  a  high  state  of  excitement,  and  Ellis 
said  afterwards  that  he  thought  the  Kayuses  were  de- 
termined to  fight  in  good  earnest.  Tauitau,  the  Catholic 
chief,  as  he  approached  us,  appeared  quite  angry,  and 
disposed  to  quarrel.  Seeing  the  excitement  increase, 
and  fearing  that  it  might  end  seriously,  unless  the  atten- 
tion of  the  Indians  could  be  drawn  to  some  other  subject, 
Mr.  Spaulding  gave  notice  that  all  would  repair  to  Dr. 
W.'s  house,  for  the  purpose  of  tallapoosa,  (worship). 
But  Tauitau  came  forward  in  a  very  boisterous  manner, 
and  inquired  what  we  had  made  all  this  disturbance  for. 
We  repaired  to  the  house,  followed  by  several  hundred 
Indians,  and  after  engaging  in  a  season  of  prayer,  found 
that  the  excitement  had  died  away,  and  the  Indians  were 
scattering  to  their  lodges  for  the  night. 

Tuesday,  23d.  The  chiefs  and  principal  men  of  both 
tribes  came  together  at  Dr.  Whitman's  to  hear  what  we 
had  to  say.  They  were  called  to  order  by  Tauitau, 
who  by  this  time  had  got  over  his  excitement,  and  then 
was  placed  before  them  the  object  of  our  visit.  Among 
other  things  they  were  told  that  much  had  been  said 
about  war,  and  we  had  come  to  assure  them  that  they 
had  nothing  to  fear  from  that  quarter  ;  that  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States  had  not  sent  the  Doctor  to 
their  country,  to  make  war  upon  them,  but  to  enter  into 
arrangements  with  them  to  regulate  their  intercourse 
with  the  white  people.  We  were  not  there  to  catch 
them  in  a  trap  as  a  man  would  catch  a  beaver,  but  to  do 
them  good  ;  and  if  they  would  lay  aside  their  former 
practices  and  prejudices,  stop  their  quarrels,  cultivate 
their  lands,  and  receive  good  laws,  they  might  become  a 
great  and  a  happy  people  ;  that  in  order  to  do  this,  they 
must  all  be  united,  for  they  were  but  few  in  comparison 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  179 

to  the  whites  ;  and  if  they  were  not  all  of  one  heart, 
they  w^ould  be  able  to  accompHsh  nothing  ;  that  the 
chiefs  should  set  the  example  and  love  each  other,  and 
not  get  proud  and  haughty,  but  consider  the  people  as 
their  brothers  and  their  children,  and  labor  to  do  them 
good  ;  that  the  people  should  be  obedient,  and  in  their 
morning  and  evening  prayers  they  should  remember 
their  chiefs. 

Liberty  was  then  given  for  the  chiefs  to  speak,  and 
Ellis  remarked  that  it  would  not  be  proper  for  the  Nez 
Perce  chiefs  to  speak  until  the  Kayuse  people  should 
receive  the  laws.  The  Kayuse  chiefs  replied,  "  If  you 
want  us  to  receive  the  laws,  bring  them  forward  and  let 
us  see  them,  as  we  cannot  take  them  unless  we  know 
what  they  are." 

A  speech  was  then  delivered  to  the  young  men  to 
impress  them  favorably  with  regard  to  the  laws.  They 
were  told  that  they  would  soon  take  the  places  of  the 
old  men,  and  they  should  be  willing  to  act  for  the  good 
of  the  people  ;  that  they  should  not  go  here  and  there 
and  spread  false  reports  about  war  ;  and  that  this  had 
been  the  cause  of  all  the  difficulty  and  excitement  which 
had  prevailed  among  them  during  the  past  winter. 

The  laws  were  then  read,  first  in  English,  and  then  in 
the  Nez  Perce. 

Yellow  Serpent  then  rose  and  said  :  ''  I  have  a  mes- 
sage to  you.  Where  are  these  laws  from?  Are  they 
from  God  or  from  the  earth  1  I  would  that  you  might 
say,  they  were  from  God.  But  I  think  they  are  from 
the  earth,  because,  from  what  I  know  of  white  men, 
they  do  not  honor  these  laws. 

In  answer  to  this,  the  people  were  informed  that  the 
laws  were  recognized  by  God,  and  imposed  on  men  in 
all  civilized  countries.  Yellow  Serpent  was  pleased 
with  the  explanation,  and  said  that  it  was  according  to 
the  instructions  he  had  received  from  others,  and  he  was 
very  glad  to  learn  that  it  was  so,  because  many  of  his 
people  had  been  angry  with  him  when  he  had  whipped 
them  for  crime,  and  had  told  him  that  God  would  send 
him  to  hell  for  it,  and  he  was  glad  to  know  that  it  was 
pleasing  to  God." 


180  rOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR. 

Telaukaikt,  a  Kay  use  chief,  rose  and  said  :  "  What  do 
you  read  the  laws  for  before  we  take  them  1  We  do 
not  take  the  laws  because  Tauitau  says  so.  He  is  a 
Catholic,  and  as  a  people  we  do  not  follow  his  worship." 
Dr.  White  replied  that  this  did  not  make  any  difference 
about  law ;  that  the  people  in  the  States  had  different 
modes  of  worship,  yet  all  had  one  law. 

Then  a  chief,  called  the  Prince,  arose  and  said  :  "I 
understand  you  gave  us  liberty  to  examine  every  law — 
all  the  words  and  lines — and  as  questions  are  asked 
about  it,  we  should  get  a  better  understanding  of  it. 
The  people  of  this  country  have  but  one  mind  about  it. 
I  have  something  to  say,  but  perhaps  the  people  will 
dispute  me.  As  a  body,  we  have  not  had  an  opportunity 
to  consult,  therefore  you  come  to  us  as  in  a  wind,  and 
speak  to  us  as  to  the  air,  as  we  have  no  point,  and  we 
cannot  speak  because  we  have  no  point  before  us.  The 
business  before  us  is  whole,  like  a  body  we  have  not 
dissected  it.  And  perhaps  you  will  say  that  it  is  out  of 
place  for  me  to  speak,  because  I  am  not  a  great  chief. 
Once  I  had  influence,  but  now  I  have  but  little." 

Here  he  was  about  to  sit  down,  but  was  told  to  go  on. 
He  then  said, — "  When  the  whites  first  came  among  us, 
we  had  no  cattle,  they  have  given  us  none  ;  what  we 
have  now  got  we  have  obtained  by  an  exchange  of 
property.  A  long  time  ago  Lewis  and  Clark  came  to 
this  country,  and  I  want  to  know  what  they  said  about 
us.  Did  they  say  that  they  found  friends  or  enemies 
here]"  Being  told  that  they  spoke  well  of  the  Indians, 
the  prince  said,  "  that  is  a  reason  why  the  whites  should 
unite  with  us,  and  all  become  one  people.  Those  wiio 
have  been  here  before  you,  have  left  us  no  memorial  of 
their  kindness,  by  giving  us  presents.  We  speak  by 
way  of  favor.  If  you  have  any  benefit  to  bestow,  we 
will  then  speak  more  freely.  One  thing  that  we  can 
s})eak  about  is  cattle,  and  the  reason  why  we  cannot 
S()cak  out  now  i^  because  we  have  not  the  thing  before 
us.  My  people  are  poor  and  blind,  and  we  must  have 
something  tangible.  Other  chiefs  have  bewildered  me 
snice  they  came  ;   yet  1   am   from   an   honorable   stock. 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  181 

Promises  which  have  been  made  to  me  and  my  fathers, 
have  not  been  fulfilled,  and  I  am  made  miserable  ;  but  it 
will  not  answer  for  me  to  speak  out,  for  my  people  do 
not  consider  me  as  their  chief.  One  thing  more  ;  you 
have  reminded  me  of  what  was  promised  me  sometime 
ago,  and  I  am  inclined  to  follow  on  and  see  ;  though  I 
have  been  giving  my  beaver  to  the  whites,  and  have 
received  many  promises,  and  have  always  been  disap 
pointed.     I  want  to  know  what  you  are  going  to  do." 

Illutin,  or  Big  Belly,  then  arose  and  said,  that  the 
old  men  were  wearied  with  the  wickedness  of  the  young 
men.  That  if  he  was  alone,  he  could  say  yes  at  once 
to  the  laws,  and  that  the  reason  why  the  young  men  did 
not  feel  as  he  felt  was  because  they  had  stolen  property 
in  their  hands,  and  the  laws  condemned  stealing.  But 
he  assured  them  that  the  laws  were  calculated  to  do 
them  good,  and  not  evil. 

But  this  did  not  satisfy  the  prince.  He  desired  that 
the  good  which  it  was  proposed  to  do  them  by  adopting 
the  laws,  might  be  put  in  a  tangible  form  before  them. 
He  said  that  it  had  been  a  long  time  since  the  country 
had  been  discovered  by  whites,  and  that  ever  since  that 
time,  people  had  been  coming  along,  and  promising  to 
do  them  good  ;  but  they  had  all  passed  by  and  left  no 
blessing  behind  them.  That  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
had  persuaded  them  to  continue  with  them,  and  not  go 
after  the  Americans  ;  that  if  the  Americans  designed  to 
do  them  good  why  did  they  not  bring  goods  with  them 
to  leave  with  the  Indians  1  that  they  were  fools  to  Hsten 
to  what  the  Yankees  had  to  say  ;  that  they  would  only 
talk,  but  the  company  would  both  talk  and  give  them 
presents. 

In  reply  to  this  the  Doctor  told  them  that  he  did  not 
come  to  them  as  a  missionary,  nor  as  a  trader. 

It  was  now  nearly  night,  but  just  before  the  meeting 
closed  a  gun  was  fired  in  one  of  the  lodges,  and  directly 
John,  the  Hawaiian,  came  running  to  the  house  with 
his  hand  up  to  his  head,  and  the  blood  running  down 
his  face,  and  as  he  came  into  the  assembly  he  cried  out 


182  TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR. 

with  great  agitation,  "  Indian,  he  kille  me !  Indian,  he 
killeme!" 

John  had  been  to  the  lodge  for  the  purpose  of  trading 
with  the  young  Indians,  and  the  Indians  became  angry 
at  John  and  threatened  to  shoot  him.  John  told  them 
that  they  dare  not  do  it,  and  one  of  them  instantly  seized 
a  musket  and  lodged  the  contents  of  it  in  the  side  of 
John's  head.  Fortunately  there  was  no  ball  in  the  gun, 
consequently  the  results  were  not  serious,  though  a  hole 
was  cut  to  the  bone,  an  inch  in  diameter. 

In  the  evening  Elhs  and  Lawyer  came  in  to  have  a 
talk.  They  said  they  expected  pay  for  being  chiefs,  and 
wished  to  know  how  much  salary  Dr.  White  was  going 
to  give  them.  Ellis  said  he  had  counted  the  months  he 
had  been  in  office,  and  thought  that  enough  was  due  him 
to  make  him  rich.  They  left  at  a  late  hour  without 
receiving  any  satisfaction. 

Wednesday,  24th.  Some  hundreds  again  assembled 
to  resume  the  business  relative  to  laws  ;  but  the  first 
thing  investigated  was  the  shooting  of  John.  The  Indian, 
immediately  after  committing  the  deed,  had  fled,  but  the 
chiefs  took  summary  measures  to  bring  him  back.  He 
was  brought  before  the  assembly  and  found  guilty  of 
the  crime,  but  the  sentence  was  postponed  until  they 
received  the  laws. 

The  Indians  then  continued  to  speak  in  reference  to  the 
laws,  and  their  speeches  were  grave,  energetic,  mighty 
and  eloquent,  and  generally  in  favor  of  receiving  the  laws. 
After  all  had  spoken  it  was  signified  that  they  were 
ready  for  the  vote  whether  they  would  take  the  laws  or 
not,  and  the  vote  was  unanimous  in  the  affirmative. 
Having  adopted  the  laws,  it  was  now  necessary  to  elect 
their  chiefs,  according  to  the  provisions  of  the  law ;  and 
Tauitau  was  nominated  to  the  high  chieftainship.  Some 
were  opposed  ;  a  majority  were  in  favor,  and  while  the 
question  was  pending  Tauitau  rose  and  said :  "  My 
friends,  my  friends,  I  rise  to  speak  to  you,  and  I  want 
you  all  to  Hsten."  He  then  adverted  to  their  past  histo- 
ries,  and  told  them   how  much  thev  had   suffered   in 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  183 

consequence  of  their  divisions  and  quarrels,  and  then 
inquired  if  they  would  lay  aside  all  their  past  difficulties, 
and  come  up  and  support  him,  if  he  would  accept  of  the 
chieftainship. 

It  was  now  time  to  close  for  that  day,  and  the  vote 
being  put,  Tauitau  was  declared  duly  elected  to  the  high 
chieftainship  of  the  Kayuse  tribe.  Before  the  meeting 
adjourned,  Dr.  White  presented  the  Indians  with  a  fat 
ox  which  he  bought  of  the  mission,  and  Mrs.  Whitman 
gave  them  a  fat  hog.  These  they  butchered  directly, 
and  feasted  upcn  them  till  ten  o'clock  at  night,  when  all 
was  consumed. 

Thursday,  25th.  A  number  of  the  chiefs  came  early  in 
morning  at  our  request,  to  settle  a  difficulty  concerning 
some  horses  which  they  gave  to  Rev.  Jason  Lee,  when 
he  first  came  to  Oregon,  Mr.  Lee  having  requested  us  to 
come  to  an  arrangement  with  them,  if  possible.  After 
a  long  talk,  we  succeeded  in  settling  with  them  by  propo- 
sing to  give  them  a  cow  for  each  horse  that  they  had 
given  Mr.  Lee.  We  found  that  the  Indians  always  ex- 
pect to  be  well  paid  for  a  present. 

After  this  the  Indians  again  assembled,  and  Tauitau 
came  forward  and  certified  that  he  had  made  up  his 
mind  that  he  could  not  accept  of  the  chieftainship  in 
consequence  of  the  difference  of  his  religion  from  that 
of  the  most  of  his  people.  He  was  accordingly  excused 
from  serving,  and  Five  Crows,  his  brother,  was  immedi- 
ately nominated.  When  the  virtues  and  firmness  of 
Five  Crows  were  spoken  of,  the  people  exclaimed,  "  our 
hearts  go  towards  him  with  a  rush."  His  election  was 
nearly  unanimous,  and  highly  pleasing  to  the  whites,  of 
whom  he  is  a  great  friend,  particularly  of  the  Americans. 
He  was  so  affected  when  his  appointment  was  announced, 
that  he  wept.  It  required  but  a  short  time  to  elect  the 
subordinate  chiefs,  after  which  Mr.  Perkins  and  myself 
addressed  the  meeting  on  the  subject  of  the  discovery 
of  the  country  by  Americans,  their  settling  in  it,  and  the 
necessity  of  living  together  on  friendly  terms;  and  then 
the  meeting,  which  had  been  continued  for  four  days,  and 
at  some  stages  of  which  the  utmost  excitement  had  pre- 


184  TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR. 

vailed,  came  to  a  peaceful  conclusion,  and  all  went  about 
preparing  for  the  closing  feast. 

A  second  ox  was  butchered,  cut  into  small  pieces  and 
boiled.  It  was  then  spread  out  upon  the  grass,  and  cut 
into  mouthfuls,  put  on  to  plates,  pans,  pail  covers,  and 
pieces  of  boards,  and  placed  along  in  the  centre  of  a 
large  temporary  lodge,  made  of  skins,  and  about  seventy- 
five  feet  long.  The  people  were  then  all  called  together, 
and  took  their  seats  on  the  ground,  ourselves  being  con- 
ducted by  the  chiefs  to  some  seats  of  skins  prepared  on 
the  windward  side  of  the  lodge,  so  that  we  would  be 
secure  from  the  smoke,  all,  when  seated,  forming  a 
lengthened  ring  around  the  food,  three  and  four  persons 
deep.  Five  Crows  called  the  table  to  order,  when  a 
blessing  was  asked;  then  several  Indians  passed  around 
the  meat  to  all  present,  the  number,  as  near  as  we  could 
judge,  being  six  hundred,  embracing  men,  women  and 
children.  Fingers  were  used  instead  of  forks,  and  the 
clattering  of  teeth  and  smacking  of  lips  served  as  music 
while  the  process  of  mastication  was  going  on.  All 
seemed  intent  upon  the  business  before  them;  laws, 
speeches,  and  war,  were  lost  sight  of,  and  the  eating  of 
the  ox  absorbed  every  other  consideration.  It  was  only 
necessary  for  each  person  to  eat  one  pound,  and  all 
would  be  consumed.  In  twenty  minutes  the  ox  which, 
three  hours  before,  was  peacefully  feeding  on  the  prairie, 
was  lodged  in  the  stomachs  of  six  hundred  Indians. 
After  the  feast  EUis  arose  and  said  that  it  was  fashionable 
among  the  Indians  for  all  the  chiefs  to  unite  with  the 
whites  at  such  a  time  as  this,  in  smoking  the  pipe,  in 
token  of  their  alliance  and  friendship.  Accordingly,  the 
pipe  of  peace  was  brought  forward.  Its  stem  was  one 
inch  in  diameter,  and  three  feet  long,  and  the  bowl  four 
inches  long  and  two  in  diameter,  and  made  out  of  a  spe- 
cies of  dark  free-stone.  Ellis  passed  it  around,  to  the 
chiefs  first,  and  then  to  the  whites,  after  which  speeches 
were  delivered  by  Five  Crows,  Ellis,  Lawyer,  Brothers, 
Tauitau,  and  Yellow  Serpent;  a  season  of  prayer  fol- 
lowed and  the  scene  was  closed.  Next  morning  the 
Indians  all  came  to  give  us  the  friendly  hand  before  we 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  185 

parted;  and  the  chiefs  informed  us  that  they  had  sen- 
tenced the  Indian  who  shot  John  to  a  punishment  of  forty 
lashes  on  his  bare  back.  Thus  closed  our  negotiations, 
and  the  immense  crowd  of  Indians,  taking  their  leave, 
returned  to  their  homes  in  the  utmost  order.  In  the 
evening  all  was  still,  and,  walking  out  to  the  camping 
ground  where  the  fires  were  still  blazing,  I  found  but  one 
solitary  old  Indian,  who  was  boiling  up  the  feet  of  the 
ox  for  his  next  day's  supplies. 

Saturday,  27th.  The  forenoon  was  employed  in  pre- 
paring to  return  home;  and  at  one,  p.  m.,  took  our  depar- 
ture from  Waialetpu.  Mrs.  Whitman  accompanied  us 
back  to  the  lower  country.  Traveled  fourteen  miles, 
and  encamped  for  the  Sabbath  on  a  branch  of  the  Walla- 
Walla  River,  called  the  Tusha,  near  its  mouth.  The 
land  along  the  Walla- Walla  and  its  tributaries  is  gener- 
ally very  fertile,  except  in  those  places  where  it  is 
strongly  impregnated  with  sal  soda.  The  face  of  the 
country  is  truly  beautiful. 

Monday,  29th.  Moved  camp,  and  proceeding  a  few 
miles,  met  the  Rev.  Mr.  Eells  from  Tshimkain,  a  mission 
station  among  the  Spokan  Indians.  He  was  on  his  way 
to  Waialetpu  and  Lapwai,  and  thence  home.  He  gave 
us  an  account  of  his  mission,  rather  discouraging  upon 
the  whole,  from  the  opposition  arrayed  against  him  from 
the  Catholics.  Leaving  him  to  pursue  his  journey  alone, 
we  continued  on  to  fort  Walla- Walla,  and  dined  with 
Mr.  McKinley,  who  has  charge  of  it.  Here  Mrs.  Whit- 
man decided  to  stop  for  the  arrival  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company's  brigade  of  boats  from  the  upper  forts,  which 
was  expected  in  a  day  or  two,  preferring  that  mode  of 
conveyance  to  riding  on  horse-back.  After  dinner  we 
crossed  the  Walla- Walla  river,  and  desiring  to  make 
some  observations  in  the  vicinity,  encamped  for  the  night. 
Towards  evening  I  walked  out  alone  to  take  a  view  of 
the  burying  ground  of  the  Walla- Walla  tribe.  It  was 
whitened  with  the  bones  of  horses  that  had  been  slain 
over  the  graves  of  their  owners,  while  here  and  there 
could  be  seen  a  human  skull  lying  by  the  side  of  a 
horse's  head.     One  of  the  most  singular  cases  of  volun 


186  TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR. 

tary  interment  recorded  in  the  annals  of  heathen  super- 
stition, took  place  in  this  burying  ground  some  twenty- 
five  years  ago.  There  resided  in  this  vicinity  a  man 
belonging  to  the  Walla- Walla  tribe,  w^ho,  rising  by  his 
own  merits,  became  the  most  successful  warrior,  and  re- 
nowned chieftain  of  which  the  Walla- Wallas  could  ever 
boast.  During  his  life,  his  people  were  the  terror  of  all 
the  surrounding  tribes;  and  where-ver  he  led  them  out 
against  the  enemy,  he  was  sure  to  bring  them  back  in 
triumph,  bearing  the  numerous  trophies  of  his  victories 
in  the  form  of  scalps,  muskets,  shields,  &lc.  These  he 
hung  as  so  many  ornaments,  to  the  sides  of  his  lodge. 
Years  of  uninterrupted  prosperity  passed,  and  the  old 
man  saw  his  five  sons  grow  up  by  his  side.  As  they 
arrived  to  manhood,  they  strikingly  resembled  himself, 
not  only  in  their  tall,  athletic  and  commanding  forms, 
but  also  in  their  astonishing  bravery  and  indomitable  will. 
His  word  was  the  law  of  his  tribe,  and  he  had  learned 
even  his  own  people  to  tremble  at  his  nod.  His  voice 
of  command  was  never  disobeyed,  whether  raised  amidst 
the  tumult  of  battle,  the  quiet  of  his  village,  or  at  the 
fire  side  of  his  own  wigwam.  He  was  justly  proud  of 
his  sons,  and  saw,  in  the  changeless  afiection  they  bore 
to  their  father,  their  love  to  one  another,  and  their  unri- 
valed talents,  not  only  his  own  comfort  and  support  in 
old  age,  when  he  would  become  useless,  but  also  the 
continued  prosperity  of  his  beloved  tribe. 

But  a  cloud  was  rising  to  darken  the  prospects  of  the 
aged  chief.  His  eldest  son,  the  glory  of  the  tribe,  the 
heir  to  the  chieftainship,  was  slain  in  battle,  and  the  old 
man's  grief  was  inconsolable.  But  he  had  other  sons, 
and  around  them  clustered  his  hopes.  His  eldest  living 
one  was  now  the  heir,  and  every  way  qualified  to  suc- 
ceed him,  but  he  had  not  ceased  wailing  for  the  eldest 
before  the  second  was  cut  down;  and  then  the  third,  and 
the  fourth,  some  in  battle,  and  some  by  disease.  Now 
his  youngest,  Benjamin,  alone  was  left;  and  the  cup 
of  the  old  man's  grief  was  nearly  full.  Bitterly  did  he 
complain  of  that  cruel  fate  that  had  bereft  him  of  his 
sons,  and  he  found  consolation  only  in  the  refle'/io,^  that 


TOUR    TO    THE    Ix\TERIOR.  187 

they  had  been  great  warriors,  and  eve  ry  way  worthy  of 
their  father.  But  n-ow  they  were  dead,  and  all  his  atiec- 
tions  centered  in  his  youngest  boy.  Surely,  thought  he, 
my  only  remaining  son  of  five,  as  noble  as  ever  father 
could  boast,  will  live  to  be  my  support  in  my  declining 
years;  he  will  be  my  staff  when  my  palsied  limbs  can 
scarcely  bear  me  in  and  out  of  my  wigwam;  he  will  close 
my  eyes  when  I  lie  down  to  die;  he  will  mourn  over  my 
grave  when  I  am  buried;  he  will  heir  my  property  when 
I  am  no  more,  and  as  chief  of  the  Walla- Walla  nation 
he  will  follow  in  the  footsteps  of  his  father. 

But  disease  was  already  preying  upon  the  vitals  of  that 
beloved  son,  and  the  father  felt  his  last  prop  crumble 
beneath  him,  as  his  son  expired  before  his  eyes.  Like  a 
person  under  the  influence  of  some  desperate  resolution, 
he  left  the  wigwam  where  lay  the  wreck  of  his  hopes, 
and  went  to  fort  Walla- Walla,  which  was  commanded 
by  Englishmen,  and  told  them  of  the  death  of  his  last 
son,  and  requested  them  to  make  arrangements  to  have 
him  buried  according  to  the  EngHsh  custom.  Comply- 
ing with  his  request,  the  dead  body  was  put  into  a  coffin, 
the  funeral  service  read,  and  the  dark  procession  moved 
to  the  grave,  the  people  showing  the  sincerity  of  their 
sorrow  by  bitter  wailing  and  tears;  but  the  old  man's 
grief  was  too  deep  thus  to  find  relief.  The  coffin  was 
lowered  into  the  deep  dug  grave,  and  the  bearers  were 
about  to  fill  it  with  earth,  when  the  old  man  stepped  upon 
the  grave's  mouth  and  examined  the  dark  abode  of  his 
son,  then  commanded  them  to  desist  until  he  had  deliv- 
ered a  message  to  the  people.  With  a  countenance 
indicating  a  settled  purpose  of  soul,  he  looked  around 
upon  his  beloved  people,  whose  wailings  had  already 
given  place  to  a  death-Uke  silence,  and  commanded  them 
to  listen  to  the  trembling  voice  of  their  old  chief,  while 
he  delivered  to  them  his  last  speech.  He  then  rehearsed 
before  them  the  history  of  his  life,  painting,  in  glowing 
colors,  the  successes  which  had  invariably  attended  him  in 
the  numerous  wars  in  which  he  had  been  involved,  with 
the  surrounding  tribes;  the  splendid  trophies  taken  from 
the  enemy  with   which  his  lodge  was  adorned,  and  the 


188  TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR. 

elevated  position  to  which  he  had  raised  the  Walla- 
Wallas,  by  the  prowess  of  his  arm  ;  and  then  with  a 
heart  throbbing  with  emotion  he  traced  the  history  of 
his  doting  sons.  He  had  sustained  them  in  infancy;  he 
had  taught  them  to  love  and  to  obey  him;  he  had  trained 
them  to  be  w^arriors;  he  had  seen  them  rush  bravely 
into  the  deadly  fight,  and  bear  off  the  palm  of  victory; 
and  he  had  fondly  hoped  that  they  would  have  long 
survived  him.  But  a  cruel  fate  had  robbed  him  of  his 
boys;  his  last  hope  had  perished,  the  sun  of  his  pros- 
perity had  set,  and  left  him  surrounded  with  the  darkness 
of  despair;  and  he  was  now  like  a  tree  whose  branches 
had  been  broken  off,  and  whose  trunk  had  been  shattered 
to  pieces  by  the  successive  strokes  of  the  thunder-bolt. 
And  then  assuring  them  that  no  entreaty  should  prevent 
him  from  accomplishing  his  design,  he  announced  to  them 
the  startling  fact,  that  he  had  resolved  not  to  survive  the 
burial  of  his  youngest  son;  and  rushing  into  the  grave 
he  stretched  himself  upon  the  coffin  of  his  son,  and  com- 
manded the  people  to  bury  him  with  his  beloved  boy. 
A  general  burst  of  lamentation  from  the  multitude  sur- 
rounding the  grave  rose  upon  the  breeze  as  the  last  com- 
mand of  the  mighty  chief  was  as  promptly  obeyed  as 
any  he  had  ever  issued  in  the  day  of  battle.  Thus 
perished  the  glory  of  the  Wall  a- Walla  nation. 

Fort  Walla-Walla  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Columbia,  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  Walla- Walla 
River.  It  may  more  properly  be  called  a  trading  post, 
as  it  looks  but  little  like  a  fort  except  that  two  or  three 
small  buildings  are  enclosed  in  an  adobey  wall,  about 
twelve  feet  high.  The  company  and  some  private  indi- 
viduals met  with  considerable  loss,  not  long  ago,  from 
the  burning  of  this  fort,  which  was  supposed  to  have 
been  fired  by*  the  Indians.  The  land  around  is  very 
barren,  though  the  face  of  the  country  is  good.  The 
company  cultivate  a  farm  about  three  miles  from  the 
fort,  on  the  banks  of  the  Walla- Walla. 

Tuesday,  30th.  Rode  sixty-five  miles,  but  on  the  31st, 
both  man  and  beast  were  so  fatigued  that  we  were  una- 
])le  to  travel  more  than  twenty-five  miles.     During  this 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  189 

day  I  proceeded  on  in  advance  of  the  party  about  one 
mile,  and  stopping  my  horse,  dismounted,  and  took  my 
blanket  from  my  saddle,  threw  it  upon  the  ground,  lay 
down  upon  it,  and  instantly  dropt  into  a  sound  sleep. 
There  I  should  doubtless  have  remained  for  hours,  if  one 
of  the  party,  who  had  fallen  in  the  rear,  had  not  awak- 
ened me,  the  others  having  passed  within  a  few  feet 
without  my  knowing  it. 

Thursday,  June  1st.  Arrived  at  the  mission  station 
below  the  Dalls,  where  we  met  with  news  from  the 
lower  country,  ships  having  arrived  in  the  Columbia 
River,  bringing  letters,  goods  and  passengers  for  Oregon. 
As  Dr.  White  expected  to  be  detained  some  time  at  the 
Dalls,  I  resolved  to  proceed  homeward  the  first  oppor- 
tanity.  Fortunately  the  brigade  of  boats  for  which 
Mrs.  Whitman  awaited  at  Walla- Walla,  arrived  at  the 
Dalls  a  few  hours  after  w^e  did  ;  and  applying  to  Mr. 
Ogden,  who  had  command  of  the  brigade,  I  obtained  a 
passage  in  his  boat  down  the  Columbia  River  to  Fort 
Vancouver.  The  boats  were  nine  in  number,  each  ca- 
pable of  carrying  five  or  six  tons  ;  all  loaded  with  furs 
which  had  been  collected  in  the  vast  interior,  and  now 
on  their  way  to  the  general  depot  at  Vancouver,  where 
they  were  to  be  examined,  dried,  packed  and  shipped 
for  London.  Associated  with  Mr.  Ogden  wei'e  Mr. 
McDonald,  and  Mr.  Ermatinger,  the  two  former  being 
chief  factors  in  the  company,  and  the  latter  a  chief  tra- 
der, both  honorable  and  lucrative  offices.  Sixty  men 
were  required  to  man  the  boats,  and  these  were  all 
French  Canadians,  and  half-caste  Iroquois. 

We  all  remained  at  the  Dalls  over  night,  and  on  Fri- 
day, the  2d  of  June,  moved  down  the  river  a  few  miles, 
and  were  met  with  a  head  wind,  which  soon  blew  to  a 
gale,  compelhng  us  to  put  to  shore,  which  we  succeeded 
in  gaining  with  some  difficulty,  breaking  one  of  our 
boats  against  the  rocks,  in  the  attempt.  Here  we  were 
detained  for  some  hours,  during  which  Mr.  Ogden  rela- 
ted some  of  his  wonderful  adventures  among  the  Indians 
with  whom  he  had  resided  for  more  than  thirty  years. 

He  was  an  eve  witness  to  a  remarkable  circumstance 


190  TOUR    TO  THE    INTERIOR. 

that  transpired  at  the  Dalls,  during  one  of  his  voyages 
up  the  Columbia.  He  arrived  at  the  Dalls  on  the  Sab- 
bath day,  and  seeing  a  congregation  of  some  three  hun- 
dred Indians  assembled  not  far  from  the  river,  he  drew 
near  to  ascertain  the  cause,  and  found  the  Rev.  H.  K. 
W.  Perkins  dispensing  to  them  the  word  of  reconcilia- 
tion, through  a  crucified  Redeemer.  There  was  sitting 
in  the  outskirts  of  the  congregation  an  Indian  woman 
who  had  been,  for  many  years,  a  doctress  in  the  tribe, 
and  who  had  just  expended  all  her  skill  upon  a  patient, 
the  only  son  of  a  man  whose  wigwam  was  not  far  dis- 
tant, and  for  the  recovery  of  whose  son  she  had  become 
responsible,  by  consenting  to  become  his  physician.  All 
her  efforts  to  remove  the  disease  were  unavailing,  the 
father  was  doomed  to  see  his  son  expire.  Believing  that 
the  doctress  had  the  power  of  preserving  life  or  inflicting 
death  according  to  her  will,  and  that  instead  of  curing 
she  had  killed  his  boy,  he  resolved  upon  the  most  sum- 
mary revenge.  Leaving  his  dead  son  in  the  lodge,  he 
broke  into  the  congregation  with  a  large  butcher-knife 
in  his  hand,  and  rushing  upon  the  now  terrified  doctress, 
seized  her  by  the  hair,  and  with  one  blow  across  her 
throat,  laid  her  dead  at  his  feet. 

The  wind  continued  to  blow  until  nearly  midnight, 
when  a  loud  call  from  the  pilot  warned  us  that  we  must 
leave  camp.  Though  it  was  very  dark,  the  voyageurs 
were  well  acquainted  with  the  river,  and  continued  to 
ply  the  oars  until  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,  when 
they  brought  up  a  few  miles  above  the  cascades,  to  wait 
for  daylight.  In  the  morning  proceeded  to  the  cascades, 
where  we  were  detained  for  several  hours,  while  the 
voyageurs  carried  their  boats  and  furs  across  a  portage 
of  half  a  mile. 

The  portage  was  made,  and  the  boats  again  loaded, 
but  still  there  were  fearful  rapids  below,  which  they  de- 
signed to  run.  Mr.  Ogden  preferring  to  walk  across  a 
point  of  land  down  to  the  foot  of  the  first  rapid,  I  vol- 
unteered to  accompany  him,  and  coming  to  an  eddy 
below  the  point,  we  awaited  the  arrival  of  the  boats. 

Soon  the  first  came,  booming  around  the  point,  and 


TOUR    TO    THE    INTERIOR.  191 

thrown  violently  up  and  down  by  the  rolling  current , 
then  the  second,  and  the  third,  and  so  on,  till  the  whole 
nine  appeared  in  sight.  Only  two  of  them  gained  the 
eddy,  in  one  of  which  was  Mrs.  Whitman;  all  the  others 
were  borne  down  the  tumbling  torrent  with  fearful  fury, 
and  it  appeared  to  us  on  shore,  that  they  must  inevitably 
be  lost.  One  only  was  capsized,  and  its  crew  of  eight 
men  struggled  hard  in  the  mighty  current,  until  they 
were  all  picked  up  by  the  other  boats,  some  of  them 
being  quite  exhausted,  and  one  so  far  gone  that  it  was 
with  considerable  difficulty  that  he  was  restored.  The 
boat  also,  with  all  its  cargo,  was  saved.  After  this  we 
were  highly  favored  with  respect  to  wind  and  current, 
and  on  Sunday,  at  two  o'clock,  p.  m.,  we  arrived  in 
safety  at  Fort  Vancouver. 

Monday,  the  5th.  Procured  a  passage  in  one  of  the 
company's  barges  to  the  Wallamette  Falls  ;  and  the  fol- 
lowing day  a  ride  on  horseback  of  fifty  miles  brought 
me  back  to  my  own  dwelling,  having,  since  I  left  home, 
performed  a  journey  of  one  thousand  miles. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Homeward  bound  — Departure  from  Oregon  — Lost  in  a  fog  —  Vancouver— Unex- 
pected meeting  —  Night  running  —  Labor  lost  —  Dreary  encampment — Sabbatk 
_  — Pillar  Rock  — Fort  George  —  Clatsop  Plains  —  A  whale  —  Entertainment  — 
Embai'kation  —  Detention  —  Great  cave  —  Weigh  anchor  —  Remarkable  escape 
from  shipwreck  —  Driven  back — Second  trial  successful  —  Voyage  —  Mani  — 
Night  danger  —  Arrival  at  Oahu  —  Shipping  —  English  fleet  —  News  from  home 
—  Rev.  Jason  Lee  —  "HoaTita"  —  Affecting  separation  —  Admiral  Thomas  — 
Great  alarm  —  Detention  —  How  improved. 

Late  in  the  fall  of  1843,  information  was  received  on 
the  Wallamatte  that  the  English  barque  Columbia  wsls 
about  to  sail  from  Vancouver  to  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
and  would  take  a  certain  number  of  passengers.  Ac- 
cordingly, Rev.  Jason  Lee,  John  Ricord,  Esq.,  of  New 
York,  and  myself  and  family,  engaged  passage  ;  Mr. 
Ricord  at  three  dollars  per  day,  and  the  rest  of  us  at 
two  and  a  half  each,  the  half  dollar  being  deducted  in 
consequence  of  our  being  missionaries.  Mr.  Lee  and 
myself  designed,  after  arriving  at  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
to  take  the  first  opportunity  to  proceed  to  the  United 
States,  but  Mr.  Ricord  designed  to  remain  at  the 
Islands. 

Having  made  the  necessary  arrangements,  and  put  all 
our  baggage  into  one  of  the  company's  batteaux  to  take 
to  the  vessel,  we  took  a  small  boat  in  tow,  in  which  we 
intended  to  proceed  from  Vancouver  down  the  Columbia. 
At  dark  we  took  leave  of  our  friends,  who  stood  on  the 
banks  of  the  river  to  witness  our  departure.  There 
being  a  good  moon,  we  did  not  apprehend  much  difiiculty 
in  running  in  the  night,  as  we  were  well  acquainted  with 
the  river,  and  we  were  willing  to  venture  a  little  to  get 
our  baggage  on  board,  before  the  vessel  dropped  down 
the  Columbia.     Proceeding  on  till  a  late  hour  at  night, 


HOMEWARD    BOUND.  193 

we  lost  ourselves  in  a  dense  fog,  and  supposing  that  by 
some  unaccountable  twist  we  had  got  turned  about,  and 
were  going  the  wrong  way,  we  resolved  as  soon  as 
posisble  to  make  the  shore.  Finding  a  place  where  we 
could  fasten  our  boats  we  remained  quiet  until  morning. 
At  nine  o'clock  the  fog  had  disappeared,  and  thereby 
disclosing  the  shores  to  our  view,  enabled  us  to  ascertain 
our  position.  Moving  forward,  we  labored  hard  with 
our  oars  during  the  day,  and  at  dark  came  along  side  of 
the  vessel  which  lay  in  the  Columbia  a  short  distance 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Wallamette.  Leaving  all  our 
baggage,  except  such  as  we  should  need  on  our  trip  down 
the  Columbia,  we  passed  on,  and  at  nine  in  the  evening 
arrived  at  Vancouver  ;  but  as  the  gates  of  the  fort  were 
closed,  we  were  obliged  to  encamp  on  the  beach  for  the 
night. 

Having  accomplished  our  business,  on  the  6th  we  took 
our  leave  of  our  hospitable  friends  at  Vancouver,  but 
the  tide  being  against  us,  we  made  slow  headway.  At 
seven  o'clock,  p.  m.,  however,  we  came  up  with  the  ship, 
and  being  invited  by  Captain  Humphries,  we  spent  a 
comfortable  night  on  board.  Next  morning  proceeded 
on  in  our  small  boat,  and  as  there  was  no  wind  to  favor 
the  ship,  w^e  soon  left  her  behind.  At  two  o'clock,  p.  m., 
passed  the  mouth  of  the  Multnomah,  and  landed  a  short 
time  at  the  point  where,  in  1835,  Capt.  Wyeth  attempted 
to  establish  a  trading  post,  but  failed,  as  every  other 
such  attempt  has  done,  from  coming  in  contact  with,  and 
meeting  the  opposition  of,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 
A  little  below  this  point  we  stopped  to  dine,  on  a  fine 
gravelly  beach,  and  while  preparing  our  dinner,  several 
canoes  appeared  below^  us,  moving  up  the  stream.  Dis- 
covering our  smoke,  they  made  for  the  point,  and  on 
coming  to  the  shore,  we  found,  in  one  of  the  canoes, 
Mr.  W.  W.  Raymond  and  his  family,  who  were  on  their 
way  from  Clatsop,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  up  to  the 
Wallamette.  Mr.  Raymond  was  employed  as  a  farmer 
at  a  mission  station  established  on  the  Clatsop  plains. 
With  them  we  spent  a  pleasant  hour,  during  which  we 
regaled  ourselves  upon  an  unusual  variety  for  such   a 


194  HOMEWARD    BOUND. 

time,  our  dinner  consisting  of  beef,  pork,  potatoes,  bread, 
butter,  pie,  cake,  and  raspberry  preserves ;  but  we 
feasted  with  the  expectation  of  suffering  hunger  before 
we  arrived  at  Clatsop,  if  the  winds  and  weather  did  not 
favor  our  progress.  Taking  leave  of  our  friends,  we 
departed  from  our  delightful  encampment,  and  with  the 
tide  in  our  favor,  proceeded  on  our  voyage.  Night 
came  on,  and  a  dense  fog  rendered  it  difhcult  to  run ; 
nevertheless  we  concluded  there  could  be  little  danger 
of  our  going  wrong  so  long  as  we  felt  the  force  of  the 
tide  bearing  us  downward  ;  but  we  soon  found  that  we 
were  missing  our  way,  and  running  in  behind  an  island, 
at  the  lower  end  of  which  a  sand-bar  had  formed  across 
the  channel,  on  which  the  water  was  so  shallow  that  we 
could  not  pass  with  our  boat.  Backing  around,  we 
rowed  hard  for  an  hour,  when  we  found  ourselves  again 
at  the  head  of  the  island,  and  by  this  time  the  darkness 
was  somewhat  dispelled  by  the  rising  moon,  and  we 
ventured  to  run  on  until  midnight. 

Mooring  our  boat  in  a  little  bay  among  the  rocks,  we 
clambered  up  on  the  side  of  a  mountain,  covered  with  a 
dense  forest,  where  we  spent  the  remainder  of  the  night. 
Our  place  of  encampment  presented  a  striking  contrast 
to  the  one  we  had  just  left,  being  among  the  rugged  and 
precipitous  cliffs  which  overhung  the  river  on  the  left- 
hand  shore,  and  as  everything  around  had  been  tho- 
roughly soaked  with  rain  we  found  it  exceedingly  diffi- 
cult to  light  a  fire. 

But  after  burning  my  fingers  to  a  blister,  scorching 
my  face,  and  singing  ofi"  my  eye-brows,  by  flashing- 
powder,  1  at  length  accomplished  my  object,  and  our 
dreary  encampment  assumed  a  more  cheering  aspect. 

On  Saturday,  the  8th,  proceeded  down  as  far  as  Oak 
Point,  which  is  about  thirty  miles  above  Astoria,  and 
encamped  for  the  Sabbath  under  a  precipice  of  rocks  on 
the  opposite  side  from  the  point.  This  precipice,  which 
rises  several  hundred  feet,  is  composed  of  different 
layers  or  strata  of  irregular,  massive  amigdaloid  and 
basalt,  and,  contrasted  with  the  low  flat  shore  on  the 
opposite    side,    presents   a    very   imposing    appearance. 


HOMEWARD    BOUND.  195 

Here,  amidst  the  solitude  of  rocks,  forest,  and  water, 
we  experienced  the  truth  that  devotion  is  not  confined 
to  the  damask  desks  and  cushioned  seats  of  refined  civil- 
ization, but  cheers  with  her  presence  the  lonely  and 
wandering  exile. 

Monday,  9th.  Ran  down  to  Pillar  Rock,  fourteen 
miles  above  Astoria,  where,  being  met  by  the  flood-tide, 
we  were  obliged  to  camp.  This  rock  is  a  great  natural 
curiosity.  It  is  a  mighty  column  of  basalt  standing 
alone  in  the  midst  of  the  river,  and  though  not  more 
than  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  in  diameter  at  its  base,  it 
rises  perpendicular  on  all  sides  to  the  height  of  more 
than  one  hundred  feet.  Remaining  here  over  night,  the 
next  morning  we  crossed  the  river  diagonally  from  Pillar 
Rock  to  Tongue  Point,  the  distance  of  eleven  miles, 
without  serious  accident,  though  the  wind  was  high,  and 
the  boat  took  in  considerable  water.  At  twelve  arrived 
at  Astoria,  where  we  met  with  a  very  cordial  reception 
from  Mr.  Birney  and  his  family,  whose  hospitalities  we 
shared  until  the  following  day.  This  gentleman  is  an 
officer  in  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  one  of  its 
pioneers.  In  common  with  all  the  English  and  Scotch 
magnates  of  the  forest,  he  possesses  the  disposition  to 
entertain  strangers,  both  with  the  comforts  his  house 
affords,  and  by  narrating  his  different  campaigns,  trials, 
sufferings,  contests  with  the  Indians,  and  hair-breadth 
escapes. 

This  place  is  now  called  Fort  George  by  the  English, 
but  doubtless  will  resume  the  name  of  Astoria  when  it 
is  settled  that  the  country  belongs  to  the  United  States. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  10th,  Rev.  J.  L.  Parrish,  who 
is  employed  as  a  missionary  among  the  Indians  on  the 
Clatsop  Plains,  came  from  Point  Adams  across  the  mouth 
of  Young's  Bay  in  a  canoe,  and  met  us  at  the  fort,  de- 
signing to  proceed  up  the  river  to  visit  some  Indian  clans 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  Katlamette  Islands  ;  but  falling  in 
with  us,  he  resolved  to  return,  and  the  next  morning 
took  us  all  in  his  large  canoe  safely  to  Point  Adams, 
though  the  bay  was  quite  rough  from  the  effects  of  a 
strong  east  wind.     From  Point  Adams  south  to  a  high 


196  HOMEWARD    BOUND. 

promontory  called  Kilemook's  Head,  the  distance  of 
twenty-five  miles,  is  a  broad  sand  beach,  which  at  low- 
tide  constitutes  a  splendid  road. 

On  our  landing  on  the  point,  an  Indian  was  dispatched 
with  a  note  to  inform  Mrs.  Parrish  of  our  arrival,  and 
to  procure  a  horse  and  cart  to  carry  us  and  our  baggage 
down  the  beach,  the  distance  of  seven  miles,  to  their 
residence.  At  sunset  our  transportation  was  acconi- 
plished,  and  we  found  ourselves  comfortably  situated 
with  our  kind  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Parrish,  on  what  is 
called  the  Clatsop  Plains. 

It  is  only  necessary  for  one  to  walk  up  from  tide  water 
about  one  hundred  feet  to  the  top  of  the  first  ridge,  to 
become  convinced  that  these  undullating  plains  have 
been  formed  by  the  constant  accumulation  of  sands,  de- 
posited by  the  ceaseless  action  of  the  waves  of  the 
Pacific  ocean.  They  are  about  twenty  miles  long,  and 
from  one  to  two  and  a  half  miles  broad,  and  contain 
about  forty  square  miles.  There  is  a  tract  of  timbered 
land  lying  between  the  prairie  and  Young's  Bay,  con- 
taining twice  the  amount  of  land  there  is  in  the  plains. 
The  timber  is  of  a  very  good  quality,  and  comprises  fir, 
spruce,  pine,  cedar,  hemlock,  and  alder.  *  There  is  little 
doubt  but  that  all  this  tract  of  land,  which  now  lies  only 
a  few  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  was  once  entire- 
ly submerged;  that  from  Cape  Disappointment  to  Kile- 
mook  Head,  the  distance  of  thirty  miles,  and  from  the 
present  mouth  of  the  Columbia  to  Tongue  Point,  the 
distance  of  fifteen  miles,  it  was  once  a  large  bay,  and 
that  the  level  tract  of  country  back  of  Point  Adams, 
comprising  Clatsop  Plains,  and  the  tract  of  woodland 
above  mentioned,  have  been  formed  by  the  sand  and 
various  vegetable  substances  that,  from  time  immemorial, 
have  washed  down  the  Columbia  River,  and  have  been 
deposited  here  by  the  continued  action  of  the  tide.  The 
evidences  of  this  are,  first,  the  fact  that  the  soil  is  of  the 
same  alluvial  character  that  is  found  on  the  shores  of  the 
river  above;  and,  second,  there  are  several  ridges,  or 
undulations,  which  extend  the  entire  length  of  the  plains, 
and  curve  precisely  with  the  shore,  and  which  all  appear 


HOMEWARD    BOUND.  197 

to  have  successively  formed  the  boundary  of  the  Pacific 
ocean.  Some  of  these  ridges  appear  in  the  woods,  and 
large  trees  have  grown  on  the  top  of  them,  which  proves 
that  this  tract  has  been  forming  for  hundreds  of  years. 
The  soil,  if  we  may  judge  from  the  immense  growth  of 
grass  and  weeds  on  the  plains,  is  of  a  superior  quality. 
The  location  is  delightful,  the  scenery  of  ocean  and 
mountain  on  a  grand  scale,  and  evidently  this  will  be  one 
of  the  most  valuable  portions  of  Oregon.  At  present, 
there  are  six  American  citizens  settled  on  the  plains,  and 
as  many  more  have  taken  claims. 

On  Thursday,  the  21st,  we  received  a  note  from  Cap- 
tain Humphries,  informing  us  that  the  ship  had  arrived 
at  Fort  George;  and  taking  leave  of  our  friends  on  the 
Clatsop  Plains,  we  proceeded  up  the  beach  towards  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia. 

On  our  way  we  fell  in  with  a  fin  back  whale  that  had 
been  driven  ashore  by  the  fury  of  the  south-west  gales. 
Though  this  is  a  common  occurrence,  more  or  less  being 
driven  up  every  year,  yet  it  is  considered  by  the  settlers 
and  Indians  on  the  plains,  as  a  very  lucky  event.  It  is  a 
rule  among  both  classes,  that  when  a  whale  is  driven 
ashore,  each  one  is  entitled  to  all  he  can  get.  When  we 
discovered  the  object,  Mr.  Lee,  Mr.  Ricord  and  myself, 
were  in  advance  of  the  rest  of  the  party,  and  in  our 
rear  were  a  number  of  Indians,  who  were  going  up  to 
row  us  across  Young's  Bay  to  Fort  George,  and  Mr. 
Solomon  Smith,  an  American  who  resides  on  the  plains, 
and  who  had  kindly  taken  Mrs.  H.  and  the  children  into 
his  cart  to  carry  them  up  to  point  Adams.  When  Smith 
first  discovered  the  object,  he  exclaimed,  '^  Who  knows 
but  that  Providence  has  sent  me  up  out  of  the  ocean 
fifty  dollars'?  Yonder  is  something  that  looks  like  a 
whale."  We  were  all  speedily  up  with  the  object,  Smith 
and  the  Indians  manifesting  as  much  joy  at  their  good 
luck  as  a  man  would  feel  who  had  unexpectedly  received 
an  immense  fortune;  and  they  all  seemed  instantly  to 
forget  that  they  were  going  to  assist  us  up  to  fort  George. 
Smith  having  no  other  instrument  than  a  jack  knife,  and 
fearing  that  the  Indians  who  were   just  behind,  would 


198  HOMEWARD    BOUND. 

get  more  than  he,  left  his  horse  and  cart  standing  in  the 
centre  of  the  wide  beach,  sprang  nimbly  on  to  the  car- 
case of  the  huge  monster,  and  with  his  knife  traced  that 
portion  of  the  animal  to  which  he  intended  to  lay  claim. 
It  was  somewhat  pleasing  to  observe  that  the  Indians,  in 
their  selections,  paid  the  utmost  respect  to  the  pre-emption 
right  of  Mr.  Smith.  Here  was  no  jumping  of  claims, 
but  as  one  after  another  arrived,  all  were  satisfied  to 
select  from  that  part  of  the  vast  surface  of  the  whale 
around  which  lines  had  not  been  run.  We  witnessed 
the  dividing  of  the  spoil  a  short  time,  and  not  being  able 
to  get  either  Smith  or  the  Indians  to  proceed  any  farther 
till  they  had  secured  all  the  blubber,  I  took  the  cart  in 
charge.  At  sundown  we  encamped  on  Point  Adams, 
contenting  ourselves  with  the  idea  that  when  the  south- 
easter, which  by  this  time  began  to  rage,  had  abated,  and 
the  whale  had  all  been  removed  from  the  beach  by  its 
despoilers,  we  should  be  able  to  cross  Young's  Bay  to 
fort  George,  where  the  barque  Columbia  lay  at  anchor. 
The  storm  continued  until  the  23d,  when  Mr.  Parrish 
came  up  with  a  number  of  Indians  and  took  us  across 
the  bay.  We  were  entertained  over  the  Sabbath  in  the 
house  of  Mr.  Birney,  where  I  preached  the  gospel  to 
some  twenty-five  persons,  embracing  the  crew  of  the 
barque,  the  passengers,  and  the  residents  of  Fort  George. 
On  the  25th,  we  were  required,  by  the  Captain,  to  em- 
bark, but  as  the  wind  was  contrary,  we  were  obliged  to 
remain  until  the  26th,  when  we  weighed  anchor  and  ran 
down  to  Baker's  Bay.  This  bay  is  the  common  anchor- 
age for  ships  after  coming  into  the  river  and  before  going 
out. 

On  leaving  Fort  George  we  were  in  hopes  immediate- 
ly to  pass  over  the  bar  of  the  Columbia,  but  on  arriving 
at  Baker's  Bay  the  wind  became  adverse,  and,  with  the 
prospect  of  a  violent  and  tedious  storm  from  the  south 
and  west,  we  came  to  anchor  snug  under  Cape  Disap- 
pointment, that  we  might  be  sheltered  from  the  fury  of 
winds  and  waves. 

Though  at  present  it  is  a  most  dreary  and  barbarous 
looking  region  around  Baker's  Bay,  yet,  as  Cape  Disap- 


HOMEWARD    BOUND.  199 

pointment  must  always  be  the  guide  of  the  mariner  into 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  as  the  bay  is  the  only  safe 
anchorage,  and  vessels  are  always  more  or  less  detained 
in  passing  in  and  out,  this  must  eventually  become  a 
place  of  considerable  maritime  importance.  This  is  the 
only  entrepot  of  the  country,  and  consequently  all 
supplies  must  pass  either  way  through  this  channel.  This 
river  is  the  thoroughfare  on  which  must  be  conveyed 
everything  that  goes  to  and  from  the  interior,  and,  judg- 
ing from  the  rapidity  with  which  the  country  is  filling 
up,  the  time  is  not  far  distant  when  steamboats  will  be 
flying  up  and  down  this  river,  as  they  are  now  seen  on 
the  Hudson  and  Mississippi.  Three  places  ofl^er  facili- 
ties for  the  establishment  of  the  grand  depot  for  the 
country,  which  must  be  located  somewhere  near  the 
mouth  of  the  river.  These  are  the  shore  of  Baker's 
Bay,  back  of  Cape  Disappointment,  the  east  side  of  Point 
Adams,  and  old  Astoria.  One  of  these  places  may 
doubtless  be  contemplated  as  the  location  of  some  future 
splendid  commercial  city,  say  the  New  York  of  the 
west. 

While  in  Baker's  Bay  we  experienced  a  very  disa- 
greeable detention  of  forty  days,  during  which  the  storm 
from  the  south  and  west,  continued  to  rage,  with  unceas- 
ing violence.  Day  after  day  Captain  Humphries  and 
myself  would  climb  to  the  top  of  Cape  Disappointment, 
and  look  off  on  the  broad  expanse  of  the  Pacific,  and 
contemplate  the  majesty  of  the  ocean  as  she  rolled  her 
mountain  billows,  and  dashed  them  successively  against 
the  base  of  the  mighty  rock  on  which  we  stood.  The 
huge  swell,  rolling  in  from  the  south-west,  would  break 
with  fearful  grandeur  the  entire  width  of  the  channel 
across  the  bar  of  the  Columbia,  and  the  thick  haze  dark- 
ening the  horizon  corroborated  the  indications  of  the 
barometer,  that  the  storm  had  not  yet  abated. 

Occasionally,  however,  we  were  able  to  extend  our 
walks  along  the  shore  north  of  the  Cape,  and  view  what- 
ever of  interest  presented  itself.  Here  is  a  cave  extend- 
ing into  the  rock  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  and 
containing   the  bones  of  animals,   trunks  of   trees,   and 


200  HOMEWARD    BOUND. 

other  substances,  which  the  tide  has  there  deposited. 
The  country  around  presents  an  aspect  wild  beyond 
description. 

On  the  morning  of  the  31st  of  January,  the  wind  blew 
fair  from  the  north-west,  and  having  been  detained 
already  beyond  all  endurance,  the  Captain  resolved  to 
make  an  effort  to  get  to  sea,  though  from  the  top  of  the 
Cape  the  mountain  swell  could  be  seen  breaking  across 
the  channel.  Accordingly,  we  weighed  anchor,  and 
soon  passed  Cape  Disappointment,  and  steered  for  the 
channel  across  the  dreaded  bar.  The  Captain  took  his 
position  on  the  foretop,  and  had  not  proceeded  more  than 
one  mile  and  a  half  before  he  was  convinced  that  he  was 
premature  in  leaving  the  bay,  as  the  bar  was  still  too 
rough  to  attempt  to  cross.  T^he  anchor  was  immediately 
let  go,  and  the  Captain  determined  to  remain  where  he 
was  for  an  hour,  in  hopes  that  the  ebb  tide  would  run 
down  the  high  sea  on  the  bar,  so  as  to  admit  of  our 
crossing  in  safety.  Again  the  anchor  was  raised,  and 
the  Captain  resumed  his  position  on  the  foretop,  but  as 
we  approached  what  are  called  the  north  breakers,  he 
came  running  down  with  great  perturbation,  and  informed 
us  that  the  huge  sea  was  still  breaking  entirely  across 
the  channel,  and  that  there  was  no  prospect,  if  we  at- 
tempted to  cross,  of  saving  either  the  vessel  or  our  lives. 

To  cast  anchor  where  we  were  would  be  imminently 
dangerous,  but  there  was  no  alternative,  as  it  was  impos- 
sible for  us  to  get  back  into  the  bay.  Accordingly,  we 
hauled  to,  and  dropt  our  anchor  within  a  few  cable's 
length  of  the  north  sands.  The  wind  was  blowing  a 
gale,  and  a  tremendous  swell  came  rolling  over  the  sand 
bar,  and  threatened  instantly  to  overwhelm  us,  while  the 
vessel  was  tossed  about  with  the  greatest  violence.  As 
if  to  add  terror  to  the  gloomy  prospect  before  us,  night 
came  on,  and  enveloped  us  in  total  darkness.  Loud 
nowled  the  wind,  and  the  mighty  breakers,  rolling  in 
majestic  grandeur  over  the  sand  bar  at  the  north  of  the 
channel,  angrily  shook  their  white  locks  around  us  during 
the  whole  night.  If  the  vessel  had  dragged  her  anchor, 
or  parted  her  cable,  she  must  inevitably  have  been  de- 


HOMEWARD    BOUND.  201 

stroyed,  and  all  on  board  have  perished,  as  no  small  boat 
could  have  lived  in  that  sea  for  a  single  moment. 

In  addition  to  the  miseries  of  seasickness,  during  that 
dismal  night,  the  horrors  of  shipwreck  were  vividly  por- 
trayed before  us  as  we  thought  of  the  ship  Isabelle, 
which  was  cast  away  upon  a  sand-bar  but  a  short  dis- 
tance from  our  stern,  of  the  William  and  Ann  which  was 
wrecked  on  the  same  bar  in  1838,  with  twenty-six  per- 
sons on  board,  not  one  of  whom  was  left  to  describe  the 
circumstances  of  the  lamentable  catastrophe;  and  of  the 
United  States'  ship  Peacock,  which  was  lost  on  the  north 
sand-bar,  but  a  little  distance  from  where  we  lay.  But 
an  ever  watchful  Providence  interposed  in  our  behalf ; 
the  wind  lulled  about  daylight,  and  hauled  around  a  few 
points;  the  sea  became  measurably  pacified,  and  at  sun- 
rise we  stood  back  for  Baker's  Bay,  where  we  again  let 
go  our  anchor,  to  await  a  more  propitious  time  for 
embarkation. 

We  had  not  to  wait  long,  for  on  the  3d  day  of  Febru- 
ary, the  mouth  of  the  river  being  exceedingly  smooth, 
and  the  wind  from  the  north-east,  Captain  Humphries 
and  myself  went  once  more  to  the  top  of  Cape  Disap- 
pointment to  take  a  view  of  the  fearful  bar,  .and  pro- 
nouncing it  passable,  at  one  o'clock,  we  weighed  anchor, 
and  spreading  our  sails  to  the  breeze,  passed  beautifully 
and  majestically  over  the  spot  where  two  days  before 
our  gallant  barque  would  have  been  driven  to  the  bottom 
by  one  break  of  the  rolHng  surge. 

A  voyage  of  twenty-four  days,  during  which  we 
experienced  a  succession  of  violent  gales  unusual  on  this 
part  of  the  ocean,  brought  us  in  sight  of  the  island  of 
Mauie,  which  we  first  saw  forty  miles  distant  at  two,  p. 
M.,  of  the  26th  of  February.  At  five  we  made  the 
island  of  Oahu,  and  though  during  the  day  we  had  been 
sailing  before  a  reefed  topsail  breeze,  when  we  came  up 
with  the  north  end  of  the  island,  the  wind  suddenly  fell, 
and  we  found  ourselves  plunging  and  rolling  over  an 
exceedingly  heavy  swell  occasioned  by  a  strong  south 
wind,  which  for  some  time  had  prevailed  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  islands.     During  the  night  we  were  drifted  some 


202  HOMEWARD    BOUND. 

distance  towards  the  island  of  Oahu  and  began  to  fear 
lest  we  might  be  driven  ashore,  and  the  absence  of  wind 
prove  more  destructive  than  the  gales  we  had  expe- 
rienced. In  the  morning,  however,  the  regular  trade  set 
in,  and  as  it  was  a  fair  wind,  we  were  carried  quickly 
past  Diamond  Hill,  when  the  city  of  Honolulu  presented 
itself  to  our  view.  A  white  flag  was  raised  to  the  top 
of  the  mast  to  announce  that  no  epidemic  prevailed 
among  us,  and  soon  after,  we  were  boarded  by  an  old 
pilot,  who,  taking  the  ship  in  charge,  conducted  us  along 
the  narrow  zig-zag  channel  leading  through  the  Coral 
Reef  which,  with  this  exception,  surrounds  the  island  of 
Oahu,  and  bringing  the  vessel  up  within  a  few  rods  of 
land,  gave  orders  to  *'  let  go  the  anchor." 

We  found  a  variety  of  shipping  in  the  harbor,  Ameri- 
can, EngHsh,  French,  Spanish  and  some  others. 

The  Dublin  line  of  battle  ship  lay  in  the  roads  the 
night  previous  to  our  arrival,  but  so  violent  was  the 
motion  of  the  vessel  in  consequence  of  the  tremendous 
swell  that  rolled  in  from  the  south,  that  she  parted  both 
her  cables,  and  it  was  with  the  utmost  difficulty  that  she 
was  prevented  from  driving  on  the  coral  reef.  A  timely 
breeze  enabled  her  to  remove  from  her  dangerous  prox- 
imity to  land,  and  after  laying  off"  and  on  until  the  swell 
subsided,  she  finally  came  again  to  anchor  in  her  former 
position.  The  Dublin  was  the  flag  ship  of  a  small  Eng- 
lish fleet  under  the  command  of  Rear  Admiral  Thomas, 
the  hero  of  the  Chinese  war,  who  had  been  sent  from 
China  by  the  British  government  to  settle  the  difficulties 
occasioned  by  the  outrageous  conduct  of  Lord  George 
Paulet  in  capturing  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  to  restore 
them  back  to  his  Hawaiian  majesty. 

Soon  after  we  came  to  anchor,  Dr.  J.  L.  Babcock,  of 
the  Oregon  mission,  who  had  been  on  the  island  for  some 
months  with  his  family,  for  the  benefit  of  their  health, 
came  on  board,  and  invited  us  ashore.  They  were  stop- 
ping at  the  house  of  John  Colcord,  where,  for  the  time 
being,  we  also  took  up  our  abode. 
/''  Immediately  after  landing,  we  learned  from  Dr.  Bab- 
cock that  news  had  arrived  from  the  islands  that  Rev. 


HOMEWARD    SOUND.  203 

George  Gary  had  been  appointed  to  supersede  Rev. 
Jason  Lee  in  the  superintendency  of  the  Oregon  Mis- 
sion, and  was  expected  at  the  islands  on  his  way  to 
Oregon,  in  a  few  weeks.  This  information  caused  us  to 
hesitate  whether  to  proceed,  if  we  had  an  opportunity, 
or  remain  until  Mr.  Gary's  arrival.  Inquiring  whether 
there  would  be  any  opportunity  soon  to  take  passage  to 
the  States,  we  ascertained  that,  in  all  probability,  no 
vessel  would  leave  the  islands  for  that  destination  under 
several  months  ;  but  that  a  small  schooner  belonging  to 
the  Ha.waiian  Government,  called  the  "Hoa  Tita," 
would  sail  the  next  day  for  Mazatlan,  on  the  coast  of 
Mexico.  Mr.  Lee  and  myself  proceeded  directly  to 
the  consul  to  ascertain  whether  it  would  be  possible  to 
procure  a  passage  to  the  coast,  but  found  that  one  only 
could  be  accommodated  on  the  small  craft,  and  that  it 
would  not  be  practicable  to  take  a  family  across  the 
continent.  Thus  baffled  in  our  purposes  to  proceed 
together  to  the  United  States,  we  held  a  council  in 
which  Dr.  Babcock  participated,  and  came  to  the  con- 
clusion that,  under  the  circumstances  it  was  our  duty  to 
separate;  Mr.  Lee  to  take  the  ''HoaTita"  to  Mazatlan, 
thence  take  the  route  through  Mexico  to  Vera  Cruz, 
and  thence  to  New  York,  and  myself  and  family  to  take 
the  brig  Chenamus,  which  would  be  ready  to  sail  in  a 
few  weeks,  and  return  to  Oregon. 

With  reference  to  Mr.  Lee,  no  time  was  to  be  lost  in 
preparing  for  his  embarkation,  but  with  the  assistance 
of  the  acting  consul,  Wm.  Hooper,  Esq.,  and  Mr.  Ladd, 
everything  was  soon  made  ready.  Now  came  one  of 
the  severe  trials  of  missionary  life.  Mr.  Lee  had  buried 
his  second  wife  in  Oregon,  and  was  left  with  a  tender 
infant,  a  little  girl  of  three  weeks  old.  Mrs.  Hines 
received  the  child  from  the  bed  of  death  to  take  care  of 
it  so  long  as  Mr.  Lee  should  desire,  and  after  the  burial 
of  its  mother  he  also  came  to  reside  in  our  family.  Mr. 
Lee  looked  upon  this  his  only  child,  as  his  earthly  all, 
and  no  personal  consideration  would  have  induced  him 
to  leave  her  in  the  care  of  others,  on  an  island  in  the 
Pacific  ocean,  and  perform  a  hazardous  journey  to  the 


204  HOMEWARD    BOUND. 

other  side  of  the  globe,  with  but  little  prospect  of  ever 
again  beholding  his  beloved  daughter. 

But  with  a  heart  as  affectionate  as  ever  beat  in  the 
breast  of  a  man,  Mr.  Lee  never  allowed  his  personal 
feelings  to  control  his  conduct,  when  they  opposed 
themselves  to  the  calls  of  duty.  In  his  opinion  it  was 
the  voice  of  duty  that  called  him  to  tear  himself  away 
from  all  he  held  dear  upon  the  earth  and  return  to  his 
native  land.  Accordingly,  at  three  o'clock,  p.  m.,  of  the 
28th  of  February,  after  tenderly  committing  his  mother- 
less child  to  the  care  of  the  writer  and  his  companion, 
he  was  conducted  to  the  "  Hoa  Tita,"  which  lay  at  the 
wharf,  and  which,  with  a  fair  wind,  was  soon  wafted 
from  the  shores  of  Oahu  towards  the  Mexican  coast. 

On  the  2d  day  of  March,  Rear  Admiral  Thomas, 
having  accomplished  his  mission  to  the  Hawaiians  to  the 
entire  satisfaction  of  both  natives  and  foreigners,  took 
his  leave  of  Oahu,  and  amidst  the  roar  of  cannon  which 
saluted  him  from  the  fort  and  from  the  ships  of  war  in 
the  harbor,  he  steered  his  course  for  the  Society  Islands. 
The  following  day  his  majesty  Kamahamaha  III,  arrived 
at  Honolulu  from  Maui,  where  he  has  resided  for  some 
time. 

Though  it  was  the  Sabbath,  yet  he  was  saluted  with 
many  guns  as  his  crown  flag  was  seen  flying  at  the 
entrance  of  the  harbor.  He  is  now  to  take  up  his  resi- 
dence in  the  city  of  Honolulu. 

In  the  evening  of  the  7th  of  March,  the  bells  of  the 
churches  and  of  the  ships  in  the  harbor,  rung  an  alarm, 
and  the  whole  city  seemed  at  once  in  an  uproar.  The 
cry  of  fire  was  heard  in  every  direction,  and  as  no  fire 
could  be  seen  from  where  we  were,  I  concluded  that  it 
must  be  in  some  ship  in  the  harbor.  I  accordingly  ran 
down  to  the  wharf,  and  found  that  the  brig  Chenamus 
was  indeed  on  fire  in  her  hold,  and  no  one  could  tell  to 
what  extent.  A  report  was  at  once  circulated  that  she 
had  on  board  a  vast  quantity  of  powder,  some  said  three 
hundred  barrels.  This  alarmed  many  exceedingly,  and 
but  few  would  go  down  to  the  wharf  for  fear  the  vessel 
would  blow  up  immediately.     The  utmost  confusion  and 


HOMEWARD    BOUND.  205 

disorder  prevailed  until  Captain  Couch,  who  was  absent 
from  the  ship  when  the  fire  was  first  discovered,  arrived. 
He  immediately  corrected  the  mistake  in  reference  to 
the  amount  of  powder,  and  also  informed  the  people 
concerning  the  probable  position  of  the  fire,  which  he 
supposed  to  be  in  the  lower  hold  forward  of  the  main- 
mast, and  as  the  powder  was  in  the  after  run,  the 
danger  was  not  so  imminent  as  had  been  supposed. 
The  fire,  however,  had  so  far  progressed  that  it  was 
considered  exceedingly  dangerous  to  take  off  the  hatches 
for  fear  it  would  break  forth,  and  destroy  not  only  the 
ship  itself,  but  also  the  other  ships  lying  near.  The 
hatches  had  become  hot,  and  the  quarter-deck,  as  far 
back  as  the  companion-way,  was  too  warm  to  stand 
upon,  when  the  captain  gave  orders  to  scuttle  her. 
Three  holes  were  accordingly  made  in  her  hull,  and 
when  the  captain  left  her  deck  there  were  already 
several  feet  of  water  in  her  hold.  She  continued  filling 
and  sinking  until  morning,  when  her  upper  deck  was 
level  with  the  water.  Soon  after  daylight  divers  were 
procured  to  go  down  and  stop  up  the  scuttle  holes,  and 
cork  up  the  cabin  windows,  to  prepare  for  pumping  her 
out.  Thirty-six  hours'  labor  of  fifty  men,  sufficed  to 
get  the  water  all  out,  and  as  soon  as  possible  the  cargo 
was  on  the  wharf,  when  it  was  ascertained  that  the 
ship  had  received  but  little  or  no  damage  from  the  fire, 
and  but  a  small  portion  of  the  cargo  had  been  injured 
except  by  the  water.  The  fire  had  been  principally 
confined  to  some  fanning-mills,  which  were  stored  under 
the  main  hatchway.  On  the  Monday  following,  the 
damaged  goods  were  sold  at  auction  for  the  benefit  of 
the  underwriters,  and  the  captain  went  about  repairing 
his  vessel  in  order  to  proceed  on  his  voyage  to  the 
Columbia  River.  The  Chenamus  is  a  fine  brig,  built 
expressly  for  the  Pacific  trade,  and  owned  by  Captain 
Cushing,  the  father  of  the  Hon.  Caleb  Cushing,  the  pre- 
sent minister  from  the  United  States  to  China.  He  has 
established  a  commercial  house  in  Oregon,  and  carries 
on  an  extensive  trade  with  the  settlers  in  that  new  and 
rsing  country. 


206  HOMEWARD    BOUND. 

In  consequence  of  the  unfortunate  accident  to  the 
Chenamus,  we  were  detained  for  five  weeks,  during 
which  we  had  an  opportunity  of  extending  our  observa- 
tions on  the  missions,  government,  commerce,  (fee,  of 
the  Sandwich  Islands. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


View  of  the  Sanawich  Islands  —  How  formed  —  Volcano  —  Coral  Reels  —  Names  of 
Islands  —  When  discovered  —  Singular  tradition  —  Cook's  death  —  Population  — 
Previous  condition  —  Long  and  bloody  war  —  Results  —  Missionary  statistics  — 
Effects  of  Missionary  labor  —  Seaman's  Chaplaincy  —  Romanism  —  Kamaham- 
ha  III  —  Reformation  —  Singular  custom  —  School  for  young  chiefs  —  Influence 
of  Missionaries  —  The  King's  Cabinet  —  Important  history  of  two  hundred  and 
seventy-six  days  —  Increase  of  Cabinet  —  Paper  King  —  Protection  —  Commerce  — 
Whale  Fishery  —  Productions  —  Society  —  Temperance  —  Destination  of  the 


The  Sandwich  Islands,  in  common  with  a  vast  number 
of  others  in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  have  doubtless  been  formed 
by  volcanic  action,  in  connexion  with  the  operations  of 
the  coral  worm.  Doubts  may  reasonably  be  indulged 
in  relation  to  the  causes  which  have  produced  the  present 
form  of  many  other  portions  of  the  globe,  but  there  can 
be  none  concerning  the  manner  in  which  the  Sandwich 
Islands  first  emerged  from  the  bosom  of  the  deep.  That 
they  have  been  thrown  up  by  volcanic  eruptions  is 
evident,  from  the  numerous  old  craters  which  appear  on 
all  parts  of  the  islands;  from  the  vast  quantities  of  con- 
gealed lava  every  where  observable;  from  the  nature  of 
the  soil,  it  being  nothing  more  nor  less  than  decomposed 
lava,  and  from  the  present  existence  of  an  active  vol- 
cano on  the  principal  island  of  the  group.  This  burning 
mountain,  known  by  the  name  of  the  volcano  of  Kilawea, 
is  situated  on  the  island  of  Hawaii,  or  Owyhee,  as  it  was 
formerly  called;  and  from  its  continued  action  in  casting 
up  immense  quantities  of  lava,  stones,  and  dirt,  which  in 
some  instances  have  been  known  to  roll  down  the  sides 
of  the  mountain  in  such  vast  quantities,  as,  in  their  pro- 
gress, to  fill  up  the  deep  ravines  washed  in  the  sides  of 
the  mountain,  and  sometimes  to  bury  up  the  cottages  of 
the  natives  with  their  occupants,  and  extending  quite  to 


208  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

the  ocean,  enlarging  even  the  island  itself,  must  be 
viewed  as  disclosing  the  principal  cause  of  the  formation 
of  this  interesting  collection  of  the  Pacific  Isles.  Though 
the  crater  of  this  mountain  is  the  only  flue  now  open 
through  which  the  subteranean  fires  discharge  them- 
selves, yet  doubtless  all  the  old  craters  have,  in  their 
turn,  served  the  same  purpose;  and  from  their  appear- 
ance one  is  led  to  suppose  that  many  of  them  may  have 
been  in  action  at  the  same  time. 

There  are  different  opinions  entertained  concerning 
the  formation  and  continued  enlargement  of  the  coral 
reefs  by  which  all  the  islands  are  surrounded.  The 
prevailing  opinion  is  that  they  owe  their  origin  to  the 
constant  action  of  what  is  called  "  the  coral  worm." 
Though  it  appears  evident  that  the  above  mentioned  two 
causes  have  produced  the  Sandwich  Islands,  yet,  after 
all,  perhaps  these  are  mere  speculations,  and  they  may 
have  existed  nearly  in  their  present  form  since  the  period 
when  the  waters  of  the  deluge  were  gathered  to  their 
original  bed,  and  the  ark  rested  on  Mount  Ararat. 

Be  this  as  it  may,  there  are  ten  of  these  isolated  spots 
of  earth  embraced  in  the  group  known  by  the  name  of 
the  Sandwich  Islands.  They  are  distinguished  by  the 
names  of  Hawaii,  Maui,  Oahu,  Kawai,  Molokai,  Lanai, 
Niihau  and  Kahoolame.  The  two  I  have  not  mentioned 
are  of  no  note,  being  small  and  barren,  and  containing 
no  permanent  inhabitants. 

The  existence  of  these  islands  first  became  known  to 
the  civilized  world  in  1778.  Captain  James  Cook,  the 
celebrated  English  navigator,  is  entitled  to  the  credit  of 
the  first  discovery  of  this  interesting  group,  to  which  he 
gave  their  present  name,  in  honor  of  Lord  Sandwich, 
his  principal  friend  and  patron  in  the  British  government. 
He  was  on  one  of  his  voyages  to  the  north-west  coast  of 
the  American  continent,  for  the  purpose  of  searching  for 
a  north-west  passage  from  the  Pacific  to  the  Atlantic 
ocean,  when  he  fell  in  with  these  islands.  On  a  subse- 
quent visit  to  them,  it  is  generally  known  that  he  fell  a 
victim  to  the  barbarity  of  the  savages,  the  existence  of 
whom  he  had  revealed  to  the  world.      When  Captain 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  209 

Cook  first  arrived  at  the  islands,  he  was  received  by  the 
natives  with  great  veneration  as  a  supreme  being.  This, 
in  part,  arose  from  the  following  singular  tradition.  The 
Hawaiians  have,  from  time  immemorial,  entertained  a 
belief  in  a  deity,  or  goddess,  which  they  called  Pele. 
She,  they  believed,  had  the  control  of  the  volcano  of 
Kilawea. 

Lono,  one  of  the  chiefs,  was  the  friend  of  Pelcj  but 
when  once  he  happened  to  insult  her,  she  was  angry  and 
began  to  pursue  him.  He  fled  in  great  terror,  and  pass- 
ing his  home  in  his  flight,  he  cried,  "  Aloha,  Aloha,"  to 
his  wife  and  children,  but  could  not  stop,  for  Pele  was 
near  in  pursuit.  Shortly  he  came  to  the  shore  where 
he  found  a  man  just  landing  in  a  fishing  canoe,  and,  to 
escape  the  vengeance  of  Pele,  he  immediately  siezed  the 
canoe  and  pushed  out  to  sea.  When  Captain  Cook  first 
arrived  he  forthwith  received  the  name  of  Lono,  the 
people  supposing  him  to  be  the  same  personage  who  had 
left  in  a  canoe,  now  returned  in  a  much  larger  vessel. 
But  the  reverence  which  they  manifested  for  Cook  did 
not  long  continue.  From  an  unrestrained  intercourse 
with  them,  they  found  him  to  be  a  man  like  themselves; 
and  conceiving  a  strong  dislike  for  him  on  account  of 
some  supposed  injuries  which  he  and  his  men  had  inflic- 
ted upon  them,  they  resolved  upon  his  distruction,  and 
accordingly  he  fell  beneath  the  weight  of  a  Hawaiian 
club,  near  the  village  of  Kadmaloa,  on  the  shore  of 
Kaalakekua  Bay,  and  on  the  island  of  Hawaii.  A  stick 
of  cocoa  set  up  in  the  fissure  of  the  rocks  a  few  feet 
from  the  water's  edge,  marks  the  place  where  the  gallant 
navigator  met  his  untimely  fate. 

The  population  of  the  Islands,  when  first  discovered, 
as  estimated  by  Captain  Cook,  was  four  hundred  thousand. 
If  this  was  a  correct  estimate,  during  the  forty-fiv^e 
years  following  Cook's  discovery,  we  find  a  decrease  in 
the  population  of  two  hundred  and  fifty-seven  thousand 
nine  hundred  and  fifty;  for  in  1823  we  find  a  population 
of  only  one  hundred  and  forty-two  thousand  and  fifty. 
A  census  was  taken  in  1832,  and  it  was  found  that  the 
decrease  for  the  nine  previous  years  amounted  to  eleven 
9* 


210  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

thousand  seven  hundred  and  thirty-seven,  leaving  a  pop- 
ulation at  that  time  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  thousand 
three  hundred  and  thirteen.  Another  census  was  taken 
in  1836,  which  revealed  the  astonishing  decrease  of 
twenty-one  thousand  seven  hundred  and  thirty  in  four 
years.  One  of  the  missionaries,  the  Rev.  W.  P.  Alex- 
ander, in  1838,  calculated  that  there  were  annually,  in 
all  the  islands,  six  thousand  eight  hundred  and  thirty- 
eight  deaths,  and  only  three  thousand  three  hundred  and 
thirty-five  births.  I  have  frequently  conversed  with 
missionaries  who  have  been  for  many  years  upon  the 
islands,  and  they  all  agree  in  stating  that  the  yearly 
deaths  at  the  present  time  bear  about  the  proportion  to 
the  yearly  births  of  seven  to  three;  and  that  only  about 
one-half  of  the  marriages  lead  to  offspring.  Allowing 
that  there  has  been  twenty  thousand  decrease  from  1836 
to  1846,  and  it  will  not  fall  short  of  this,  there  is  now  a 
population  of  eighty-eight  thousand  five  hundred  and 
seventy-nine.  This  brings  us  to  the  lamentable  result, 
that  since  the  discovery  of  the  island  in  1778  there  has 
been  an  average  annual  decrease  of  four  thousand  five 
hundred  and  eighty.  The  astonishing  rapidity  of  the 
decrease  of  Hawaiian  population,  is,  perhaps,  without  a 
parallel  in  the  history  of  nations,  not  excepting  the  ill- 
fated  Indians  of  North  America. 

In  beholding  the  downward  career  of  the  Hawaiians 
in  respect  to  population,  one  is  led  to  inquire  for  the 
causes  which  have  produced  these  astonishing  results. 
These  are  numerous,  and  among  the  principal  are  the 
sweeping  pestilence  which  raged  with  singular  fatality 
during  the  years  1803  and  1804,  the  destructive  wars  of 
Kamehameha  the  first,  and  the  almost  universal  preva- 
lence, and  uncontrolled  progress  of  a  disease  said  to  have 
been  introduced  by  the  vicious  crew  belonging  to  the 
vessel  of  Captain  Cook,  and  as  fatal  in  its  ravages,  as  it 
is  loathsome  to  contemplate.  The  laxity  of  native  mor- 
als, which  has  always  existed  among  the  Hawaiians,  is  a 
sufficient  cause  why  this  disease  should  prevail  among 
them  to  an  unusual  extent;  and  this  very  cause  adds  to 
the  effect  of  the  disease  in  preventing  offspring.     Hitherto 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  211 

all  the  efforts  of  the  missionaries  and  the  medical 
men  in  the  islands  to  stop  the  ravages  of  the  disease, 
have  been  ineffectual,  and  it  is  extremely  doubtful 
whether  any  means  can  be  devised  sufficient  to  roll  back 
the  tide  of  death  which  threatens  the  destruction  of  the 
Hawaiian  nation. 

Great  changes  had  taken  place  in  the  political  and 
religious  history  of  the  Hawaiian  nation  previous  to  the 
arrival  of  the  first  missionaries.  Many  of  these  resul- 
ted from  the  free  intercourse  of  the  people  of  other 
nations  with  the  islanders,  so  soon  as  their  existence  be- 
came known  to  the  civilized  world.  When  they  were 
first  discovered,  the  islands  were  governed  by  a  number 
of  independent  chiefs,  and  all  the  people  were  held  under 
the  iron  control  of  a  system  of  idolatry,  called  the  Tabu 
system.  After  a  few  years'  intercourse  with  foreigners, 
beholding  their  vast  superiority  over  themselves,  arising, 
as  they  supposed,  from  the  difference  of  their  religion, 
there  arose  a  party  among  the  natives  who  rejected  their 
ancient  Tabu,  and  embraced  in  theory  so  far  as  they 
understood  it,  the  religion  of  the  foreigners.  At  first 
this  party  was  small,  but  continuing  to  increase,  it  at 
length  embraced  nearly  one  half  of  the  nation.  Kame- 
hameha  was  the  first  chief  to  declare  himself  openly 
against  the  Tabu  system.  At  that  time  he  was  a  petty 
chief,  controlling  but  a  small  portion  of  the  island  of 
Hawaii.  But  being  more  enlightened  than  his  country- 
men, and  withal  ambitious  and  enterprising  in  his  habits, 
he  resolved  to  attempt  the  accomplishment  of  a  revolu- 
tion in  both  the  government  and  religion  of  his  country. 
But  the  cruel  system  of  idolatry  against  which  Kame- 
hameha  had  arrayed  himself,  strengthened  as  it  was  by 
ages  of  uninterrupted  growth,  was  not  to  be  destroyed 
without  a  powerful  struggle,  its  friends  and  supporters 
still  being  more  numerous  than  its  enemies.  The  most 
violent  enmity  had  grown  up  betwixt  the  two  parties, 
and  at  length  Kamehameha  found  himself  involved  in 
the  most  bloody  war.  All  the  principal  chiefs  were  upon 
the  side  of  the  Tabu,  and  it  became  necessary  for  Kama- 


212  SAiN'DWlCll    IfiLANDS. 

hameha  to  fight  them  successively.  He  first  turned  his 
attention  to  the  subjugation  of  his  own  native  island  of 
Hawaii,  and  meeting  the  chiefs  with  their  forces  in  battle, 
his  own  superior  skill  and  prowess  prevailed,  and  he  soon 
found  the  island  of  Hawaii,  containing  then  more  than 
one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  prostrate  at  his  feet. 
Here  establishing  his  authority  by  the  wise  use  of  every 
necessary  precaution,  he  prepared  for  the  invasion  of 
the  other  islands.  He  met  the  adherents  of  the  Tabu 
on  the  islands  of  Maui,  Kauai,  Lanai,  and  Morokai,  in 
battle,  and  in  every  instance  triumphed  over  them. 
Those  of  his  enemies  who  escaped  took  refuge  on  the 
island  of  Oahu.  Here  an  army  of  men  as  large  as  that 
which  Kamehameha  had  drawn  to  his  standard,  had  col- 
lected, and  resolved  to  make  one  more  desperate  stand, 
to  support  their  favorite  Tabu.  At  length  the  conquer- 
ing chief  eflfected  a  landing  on  the  island  of  Oahu,  and 
the  opposing  forces  met  in  the  rear  of  the  city  of  Hono- 
lulu, and  fought  the  last  and  bloodiest  battle  of  the  whole 
war.  The  victory  of  Kamehameha  was  complete,  his 
enemies  were  annihilated,  and  he  was  forthwith  pro- 
claimed king  of  the  Hawaiian  nation. 

Providing  for  the  government  of  Oahu,  Kamehameha 
returned  to  Kailue  on  his  native  island,  and  in  a  pro- 
clamation to  the  nation  announced  that  the  old  Tabu 
system  was  at  an  end.  Thus  fell  idolatry  on  the  Sand- 
wich Islands,  and  thus  all  the  group  were  connected 
together  under  one  government.  At  the  head  stood  the 
victorious  chieftain  who  had  effected  the  revolution, 
under  the  title  of  King  Kamehameha  the  First. 

It  was  in  this  condition  that  the  first  missionaries  found 
the  islands  on  their  arrival.  Providence  had  prepared 
the  way  for  them  in  the  destruction  of  the  bloody  sys- 
tem of  idolatry  which  had  reigned  over  the  islands  for 
ages,  and  accordingly  the  first  news  that  saluted  them 
on  approaching  Hawaii,  was,  "  Kamehameha  is  king, 
and  the  Tabu  is  destroyed." 

It  was  on  the  4th  day  of  April,  1820,  that  the  brig 
Thaddeus,    from   Boston,  with  seven   male   and   seven 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  213 

female  missionaries  came  to  anchor  in  the  bay  of  Kailua, 
and  on  the  8th  the  king  and  chiefs  consented  to  their 
landing  and  residing  on  the  island. 

Three  years  afterwards  a  reinforcement  arrived, 
consisting  of  seven  males,  and  six  females.  A  second 
reinforcement  of  six  males  and  ten  females,  arrived  in 
the  spring  of  1828  ;  a  third,  of  four  males  and  four 
females,  in  the  spring  of  1831  ;  a  fourth,  of  ten  males 
and  nine  females,  in  the  spring  of  1832  ;  a  fifth,  of  two 
males  and  two  females,  in  the  spring  of  1833  ;  a  sixth, 
of  three  males  and  five  females,  in  the  spring  of  1835  ; 
a  seventh,  fifteen  males  and  seventeen  females,  in  the 
spring  of  1837 ;  an  eighth,  of  four  males  and  four 
females,  in  the  spring  of  1841.  In  January,  1842,  one 
male  and  one  female  joined  the  mission  at  the  islands 
from  the  Oregon  Mission.  A  ninth  reinforcement,  of 
two  males  and  two  females,  from  the  United  States, 
arrived  in  September,  1842.  This  makes  an  aggregate 
of  sixty-one  males  and  sixty-seven  females  who  have 
been  employed  on  the  mission  since  its  first  establish- 
ment twenty-six  years  ago.  Of  these  a  number  have 
died,  some  have  returned  to  the  United  States,  some 
have  become  disconnected  with  the  mission  and  remain 
at  the  islands,  and  others  continue  their  labors  as  mis- 
sionaries in  behalf  of  the  Hawaiian  race. 

The  greatest  number  of  laborers  in  the  field  at  one 
time,  has  not  exceeded  about  eighty  adults,  or  forty 
families,  and  this  has  been  near  the  average  number  for 
the  last  ten  years.  Of  course,  to  sustain  so  large  an 
establishment,  the  expenditures  must  have  been  very 
great.  These  have  been  incurred  in  supporting  the 
missionaries,  and  providing  them  with  dwellings  ;  in  the 
printing  and  binding  of  books  for  the  seminary  and 
other  public  schools  ;  in  the  erection  of  churches  and 
schoolhouses,  and  in  the  circulation  of  books.  The 
entire  amount  expended,  from  the  first  estabhshment  of 
the  mission  up  to  1844,  according  to  the  report  of  the 
financial  agent,  amounted  to  six  hundred  and  eight  thou- 
sand, eight  hundred  and  sixty-five  dollars.  Fifty  thou- 
sand dotlars  of  this  was  furnished  by  the  American  Bible 


214  SANDWICH    I8LANUS. 

Society ;  nineteen  thousand  seven  hundred  and  seventy- 
four  dollars  by  the  American  Tract  Society,  and  five 
hundred  and  thirty-nine  thousand  and  ninety  dollars  by 
the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M. 

Eighteen  mission  stations  have  been  estabhshed,  and 
continue  to  be  occupied  ;  six  on  Hawaii,  four  on  Maui, 
four  on  Oahu,  three  on  Kauai,  and  one  on  Morokai.  In 
addition  to  two  printing  offices  and  a  bindery,  a  commo- 
modious  seminary,  school-houses,  and  churches,  forty 
permanent  dwelling-houses  have  been  erected  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  missionaries,  that  in  appearance 
would  not  disgrace  any  of  the  villages  of  Western  New 
York. 

The  results  of  all  this  immense  labor  and  expense  are 
sufficient  to  establish  in  every  reflecting  mind,  the  utiUty 
of  christian  missions.  The  great  object  held  in  view  in 
the  missionary  enterprise,  is  the  conversion  of  the  hea- 
then to  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  and  their  final  salvation 
in  the  kingdom  of  heaven.  As  it  regards  the  first,  by 
missionary  eflfort,  Christianity  has  been  introduced  into 
the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  adopted  as  the  religious  sys- 
tem of  the  nation.  Twenty-three  christian  churches 
have  been  gathered,  and  embraced,  on  the  first  of  April, 
1843,  twenty-three  thousand  eight  hundred  and  four 
members  in  regular  standing.  In  addition  to  this,  the 
Hawaiian  language  has  been  systematized  and  reduced 
to  writing  ;  fifty  thousand  copies  of  the  New  Testament 
and  twenty  thousand  of  the  Old  Testament  have  issued 
from  the  Hawaiian  press  ;  seventy  different  works, 
scientifical,  historical,  and  religious,  have  been  translated 
and  published  ;  one-half  of  the  adult  population  have 
been  taught  to  read,  and  nearly  all  of  the  children  of 
the  islands,  are  now  gathered  into  the  schools.  A  mis- 
sion seminary  where  the  higher  branches  are  taught, 
has  been  in  operation  for  years,  and  usually  numbers 
about  one  hundred  and  thirty  students.  A  female  semi- 
nary of  a  similar  character  numbers  about  eighty  pupils. 
These  are  on  the  island  of  Maui.  A  boarding  school 
for  boys  numbering  sixty  scholars,  and  one  for  girls  of 
about    twenty-five,    are    in   operation    on    Hawaii.       A 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  216 

boarding  school  for  the  young  chiefs,  and  a  number  of 
select  schools  at  the  various  stations  throughout  the 
islands,  and  under  the  care  of  gentlemen  and  ladies  be- 
longing to  the  mission.  Reading,  writing,  geography, 
arithmetic,  astronomy,  geometry,  trigonometry,  mensu- 
ration, surveying,  navigation,  algebra,  history,  phyloso- 
phy,  &c.,  are  taught  in  these  schools,  some  of  which 
are  already  beginning  to  rank  with  the  academies  of 
New  England. 

These  are  some  of  the  direct  benefits  resulting  from 
missionary  efforts,  as  they  exhibit  themselves  on  the 
Sandwich  Islands  ;  and  in  viewing  them  we  can  form 
some  conception  of  the  value  of  those  efforts  which 
have  accomplished  this  work,  considered  with  respect  to 
time.  But  who  can  estimate  the  value  of  a  soul,  the 
redemption  of  which  cost  the  infinite  price  of  a  Re- 
deemer's blood  1  When  I  take  a  view  of  the  small 
amount  of  money  and  labor  expended,  the  little  suffering 
endured,  and  the  few  lives  sacrificed  in  the  missionary 
cause,  and  connect  them  as  instrumentahties  with  the 
eternal  salvation  of  souls  as  the  object,  I  am  led  to 
exclaim,  my  God !  how  trifling  are  the  means  used  in 
comparison  to  the  great  end  accompHshed !  And  yet 
thousands  from  the  Sandwich  Islands  will  share  in  the 
blessedness  of  the  first  resurrection,  because  these  in- 
strumentalities have  been  used  in  their  behalf,  and  the 
Divine  blessing  has  accompanied  the  efforts  which  have 
been  made. 

In  addition  to  the  results  of  these  efforts,  as  already 
stated,  it  may  be  proper  to  remark  that  the  government 
has  assumed  a  much  more  stable  and  consistent  charac- 
ter than  it  formerly  possessed.  Written  laws  have  been 
enacted  by  which  the  people  are  better  secured  from 
oppressive  exactions  on  the  part  of  their  rulers,  and 
encouraged  to  cultivate  industrious  and  virtuous  habits. 
The  security,  stability,  and  value  of  property  have  been 
greatly  enhanced.  Diplomatic  intercourse  has  been 
opened  with  other  and  greater  nations,  among  w^hich 
are  England,  the  United  States,  and  Prance,  all  of  which 
have  acknowledged  the  independence  of  the  islands,  and 


216-  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

express  an  interest  in  their  prosperity.  Indeed,  a  great 
change  for  the  better  has  taken  place,  and,  though  it  is 
true  that,  still  Hawaiian  society  is  in  a  very  crude  state, 
and  is  susceptible  of  vast  improvement,  it  is  not  the  less 
true  that  the  w^onderful  change  through  w^hich  it  has 
passed  since  the  cross  was  first  planted  upon  the  islands, 
is  without  parallel  in  the  history  of  ancient  or  modern 
times. 

There  are  few  subjects  presenting  themselves  to  the 
visitor  at  the  islands,  more  interesting  than  the  Seaman's 
Chaplaincy,  at  Honolulu.  The  fact  that  the  American 
Seaman's  Friend  Society,  in  addition  to  many  other 
places  in  the  world,  have  directed  their  pious  benevo- 
lence to  the  greatest  seaport  of  the  Sandw^ich  Islands, 
should  be  regarded  as  evidence  of  the  importance  of 
the  place  as  well  as  of  the  discrimination  of  the  mana- 
gers of  that  society.  They  have  here  erected  a  chapel 
on  a  most  eligible  site,  which  is  conveniently  fitted  up 
to  accommodate  two  or  three  hundred  hearers.  In  the 
basement  there  is  a  depository  for  Bibles  and  Tracts, 
which  may  here  be  found  in  English,  German,  French, 
Danish,  and  most  other  European  languages,  and  are 
carefully  and  liberally  distributed.  The  Bethel  Flag 
floats  from  a  staff  elevated  from  the  top  of  the  steeple, 
inviting  the  mariner  to  the  house  of  prayer.  Public 
worship  is  performed  every  Sunday  morning  and  even- 
ing ;  there  is  a  meeting  every  Thursday  evening  for 
prayer  and  religious  conference,  and  a  monthly  seamen's 
concert  for  prayer  ;  both  held  in  the  vestry,  and  well 
attended.  The  chaplain  also  invites  all  seamen  to  his 
private  residence,  where  he  instructs,  advises,  reproves, 
and  exhorts,  as  occasion  may  require,  and  distributes 
Bibles,  Tracts,  &c.,  to  those  who  attend,  with  great 
assiduity,  as  they  are  received  with  many  thanks  by  the 
sailors,  and  open  sources  of  unspeakable  consolation  to 
many  of  them,  while  prosecuting  their  hazardous  em- 
ployment. 

The  society  has  been  peculiarly  fortunate  in  their 
choice  of  chaplains  for  this  important  post.  The  present 
incumbent   is    the   Rev.    Samuel    C.    Damon,  who   has 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  217 

officiated  since  the  death  of  his  predecessor,  the  Rev. 
John  Diell.  Mr.  Damon  is  well  qualified  for  the  place 
he  is  called  to  fill,  and  his  performances  in  the  pulpit 
are  alike  creditable  to  himself  as  a  clergyman  and  man 
of  letters,  and  well  adapted  to  the  varied  circumstances 
of  his  hearers.  His  audience  is  frequently  composed  of 
English  lords  and  knights,  consuls  and  consul  generals, 
admirals  and  rear  admirals,  the  king  of  the  islands  and 
his  suite,  the  ardent  votaries  of  wealth  in  the  character 
of  merchants  and  sea  captains,  naval  officers  of  different 
nations,  common  seamen  and  Kanakas.  His  subjects 
are  well  chosen  to  arrest  the  attention  of  all  these,  nor 
does  he  shun  to  declare  unto  them  all  the  counsel  of  God. 
In  addition  to  his  ordinary  labors  as  chaplain,  which 
alone  are  very  arduous,  he  is  the  editor  of  a  very  inte- 
resting and  useful  paper  called  '^  The  Friend  of  Tempe- 
rance and  Seamen."  About  four  hundred  seamen 
annually  visit  him  at  his  study,  to  receive  religious 
instruction,  and  advice.  From  a  consideration  of  these 
facts,  I  am  led  fully  to  the  conclusion  that  the  seaman's 
chaplaincy  at  Honolulu  is  every  way  worthy  to  be 
sustained. 

Since  the  French  compelled  the  Hawaiians  to  receive 
with  their  brandy,  Roman  Catholic  missionaries,  Catholic- 
ism has  been  making  rapid  advances  among  the  natives, 
and  thereby  presenting  a  great  obstacle  in  the  way  of 
the  final  success  of  the  Protestant  missionaries.  Ac- 
cording to  the  best  information  I  could  obtain,  there 
w^ere  nine  Catholic  priests  on  the  islands,  and  the  bap- 
tized members  of  the  church  amounted  in  all  to  about 
twelve  thousand  five  hundred,  besides  those  who  were 
under  preparatory  training. 

They  have  one  hundred  schools  established,  containing 
upwards  of  three  thousand  scholars.  These  are  under 
the  direction  of  priests,  sisters  of  charity,  and  native 
teachers.  The  catholic  cathedral  is  by  far  the  most 
sightly  looking  church  in  Honolulu,  and  is  under  the 
charge  of  the  Rev.  the  Abbe  Maigret,  of  the  Society  of 
Peipus,  in  Paris.  In  connection  with  the  cathedral 
there  is  a  school  of  three  hundred  scholars,  of  both 


218  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

sexes,  under  the  superintendence  of  the  Abbe  himself, 
whose  services  are  without  charge  to  those  who  belong 
to  his  communion.  Some  time  in  1842  a  vessel  sailed 
from  France,  containing  a  bishop  for  the  islands,  seven 
priests,  and  twelve  sisters  of  charity ;  but  she  has  nevei 
been  heard  of  since  she  left  the  coast  of  Brazil,  and  is 
supposed  to  have  been  lost  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape 
Horn. 

King  Kamehameha  III.  and  his  small  court  have  for 
several  years  resided  chiefly  at  Lahaira,  in  the  island  of 
Maui,  but  in  June,  1844,  they  removed  their  residences 
to  the  city  of  Honolulu,  on  the  Island  Oahu.  At  this 
place  a  palace  has  been  recently  erected  in  a  conspicuous 
part  of  the  city,  and  when  the  public  grounds  surround- 
ing it  are  properly  improved  and  ornamented,  will  pre- 
sent an  imposing  appearance,  and  constitute  a  suitable 
residence  for  the  royal  family. 

Until  recently,  it  has  been  extremely  doubtful  whethei 
the  Hawaiian  government  would  continue  in  existence 
for  any  length  of  time,  but  now  his  majesty  Kameham- 
eha III,  is  recognized  as  belonging  to  the  family  of 
independent  sovereigns,  and  efforts  are  being  made  by 
his  ministers  to  place  his  court,  and  organize  his  tribunals 
on  a  footing  corresponding  with  his  present  situation. 
As  the  ministers  of  the  king  are  principally  Americans, 
and  of  course  unaccustomed  to  the  forms  of  ceremony 
observed  in  royal  palaces,  it  may  be  expected  that  the 
code  of  court  etiquette  which  they  have  adopted,  may 
be  somewhat  defective.  If  by  some  strange  metamor- 
phosis, a  republican  is  transformed  into  an  aristocrat,  he 
generally  surrounds'  himself  v/ith  an  excess  of  cere- 
mony, and  on  this  ground  fault  has  been  found  with  the 
code  of  etiquette  which  the  ministers  of  Kamehameha 
III.  have  thrown  around  the  court.  Formerly  the  king 
was  approachable  on  all  occasions,  and  by  every  body  ; 
now  a  routine  of  ceremony  must  be  observed  before 
even  a  sea  captain  can  gain  an  audience.  This  is  pecu- 
liarly trying  to  those  English  and  American  residents 
who  have  formerly  had  free  access  to  the  royal  presence. 
Though  this  privilege  is  now  denied  the  people  generally, 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  219 

yet,  on  proper  application  being  previously  made,  the 
representatives  of  foreign  powers,  are,  at  all  times, 
admitted  to  a  personal  interview  with  the  king,  for  the 
purpose  of  submitting  to  his  majesty  any  case  of  well 
founded  grievance  which  any  of  their  countrymen  may 
have  against  the  authorities  of  the  land. 

The  character  of  the  king  since  he  came  to  the  throne, 
has  undergone  a  very  great  change.  Formerly  he  was 
adicted  to  low  and  degrading  vices,  among  which  intem- 
perance was  one  of  the  most  prominent,  but  some  ten  or 
twelve  years  ago,  a  thorough  reformation  took  place  in  his 
majesty,  and  he  is  now  not  only  a  consistent  temperance 
man,  but  also  a  member  of  the  church  of  Christ.  Though 
there  are  a  few  individuals  at  Honolulu  who  are  disposed 
to  censure,  and  find  fault  with  everything  and  everybody 
in  the  islands,  yet  none  seem  inclined  to  complain  of  his 
majesty  Kamehameha  III.  The  general  testimony  is 
favorable  to  the  goodness  of  his  disposition,  the  upright- 
ness of  his  intentions,  and  his  clemency  and  kindness  to 
his  subjects.  None  accuse  him  of  cruelty  or  tyranny, 
and  many,  qualified  to  judge,  concur  in  ascribing  to  him 
considerable  native  talent,  and  much  acquired  informa- 
tion. His  majesty  is  an  example  of  sobriety  to  his  sub- 
jects, regular  in  his  attendance  at  church,  and  zealous  in 
the  discouragement  of  all  Pagan  rites,  and  the  establish- 
ment of  the  Christian  religion  in  the  nation. 

He  is  now  thirty-three  years  of  age,  and  was  married 
in  1837  to  Kalama,  by  whom  he  has  no  offspring.  In 
the  probable  event  of  his  having  no  lineal  successor,  the 
crown  will  devolve  on  Alexander  Liholiho,  whom  the 
king  has  adopted  for  that  purpose.  He  is  an  active  and 
promising  lad,  now  in  the  twefth  year  of  his  age. 

A  very  singular  custom  prevails  in  the  Hawaiian 
monarchy  of  appointing  a  female  prime  minister  of  the 
kingdom.  It  is  said  this  custom  originated  in  the  will  of 
Kamehameha  I,  which  declared  his  son  Liholiho  his 
successor  in  the  throne,  but  that  Kaahumanu,  his  favorite 
queen,  should  be  his  minister.  The  present  premier  is 
Kekauluohi,  who  is  about  fifty  years  of  age,  very  digni- 
led  in  her  appearance,  and  much  respected  by  all  classes. 


220  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

Her  prerogatives  are  nearly  equal  to  those  of  the  king, 
and  whatever  she  does  in  the  realm,  is  to  be  considered 
as  executed  by  his  authority;  but  the  king  has  a  veto  on 
her  acts,  while,  on  the  other  hand,  his  own  are  not  bind- 
ing unless  approved  of  by  her.  She  has  an  interesting  son, 
William  Charles  Lunalilo,  about  twelve  years  of  age, 
but  his  sex  disqualifies  him  from  being  her  successor; 
consequently,  Victoria  Kamamalu,  who  is  eight  years  of 
age,  is  the  reputed  heir  to  the  premiership. 

Alexander  and  Victoria  are  both  the  children  of 
Kekuanaoa,  the  present  governor  of  Oahu,  by  Kaahu- 
mana  the  former  premier  of  the  kingdom.  These  chil- 
dren, with  all  the  other  young  chiefs  of  the  realm,  are 
under  the  care  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cooke,  who  are  mem- 
bers of  the  mission,  and  who  spare  no  pains  to  fit  them, 
through  a  proper  education  and  training,  for  the  high 
functions  which  they  are  destined  to  fill.  To  the  mis- 
sionaries belongs  the  merit  of  having  excited  the  king 
and  chiefs  of  the  islands  to  desire  a  school  for  the  sys- 
tematic education  of  those  children  into  whose  hands 
would  fall  the  future  destiny  of  the  government.  By 
the  request  and  .concurrence  of  the  king  and  chiefs,  in 
1839,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cooke  were  selected  by  the  mission 
as  suitable  persons  to  undertake  the  education  of  the 
young  chiefs.  The  building  occupied  by  this  school  of 
the  chiefs,  is  situated  in  a  retired  part  of  the  city  of 
Honolulu,  and,  though  it  cost  but  two  thousand  dollars, 
being  constructed  of  sun-dried  adobes,  is  commodiously 
arranged  to  secure  the  purposes  of  its  construction.  It 
contains  seventeen  rooms  in  all,  of  various  dimensions, 
opening  into  a  court  in  the  centre  thirty-six  feet  square, 
the  outside  of  the  building  being  seventy-six  feet  square. 
The  school  room  is  very  conveniently  arranged,  and 
books,  maps,  stationery,  and  globes  terrestrial  and  celes- 
tial, are  at  all  times  accessible  to  the  scholars,  and  there 
is  also  an  excellent  apparatus  to  illustrate  the  movements 
of  the  planets  which  compose  our  solar  system.  The 
scholars  are  fifteen  in  number,  seven  males  and  eight 
females,  and  each  of  them  has  from  two  to  six  native 
attendants  in  the  character  of  grooms,  tailors,  washers. 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  221 

&c.,  according  to  the  rank,  age,  and  sex  of  each.  These 
attendants  are  all  under  the  direction  of  John  Li  and  his 
wife,  who  are  both  very  respectable  natives,  and  who 
co-operate  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cooke  in  excluding  these 
attendants  from  any  intimacy  with  the  young  chiefs 
which  might  prove  prejudicial  to  their  welfare.  Reading, 
writing,  spelling,  arithmetic,  geography,  history,  draw- 
ing, music,  vocal  and  instrumental,  are  the  principal 
branches  of  education  which  these  -future  rulers  of  the 
islands  are  receiving  at  the  hands  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cooke. 
These  interesting  youth,  in  every  department  of  educa- 
tion, show  a  tractability  quite  equal  to  any  other  children 
of  the  same  ages,  and  under  similar  circumstances;  and 
it  is  quite  evident  that,  under  the  excellent  government 
and  tuition  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cooke,  these  young  chiefs 
will  be  prepared  to  go  forth  into  the  world  and  fill  their 
respective  stations,  with  a  fund  of  knowledge  vastly 
superior  to  that  of  their  predecessors;  and  it  is  equally 
obvious,  that  the  administration  of  these  future  rulers, 
must  be  immeasurably  more  enlightened  than  any  that 
has  ever  before  existed  in  the  islands.  Yet  the  tongue 
of  calumny  has  represented  the  appointment  of  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Cooke  to  their  responsible  station,  as  a  measure 
having  no  higher  object,  than  the  selfish  policy  of  priest- 
craft. 

As  might  be  expected,  the  missionaries,  from  the  posi- 
tion they  have  occupied,  have  exerted  a  controlling 
influence  in  the  councils  of  the  Hawaiian  government, 
for  many  years,  but  the  first  appointment  from  among 
them  to  any  office  in  the  government  was  that  of  the 
Rev.  William  Richards  in  1838  to  the  office  of  teacher 
or  counsellor  of  the  chiefs.  This  appointment  was  made 
in  aocordance  with  a  request  of  the  king  and  chiefs,  and 
accepted  by  Mr.  Richards  at  first,  but  for  one  year. 
Subsequently  he  received  a  higher  appointment,  and 
filling  the  different  offices  of  privy  counsellor,  secretary 
of  state,  and  embassador  to  a  foreign  court,  he  has  been 
one  of  the  principal  actors  in  the  government  since  his 
first  appointment. 

Anotlkcr   appointment  to  a  responsible   office   in   the 


222  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

government  took  place  from  among  the  missionaries  in 
1842,  which  became  a  matter  of  much  serious  contro- 
versy in  the  islands,  and  perhaps  of  some  willful  misre- 
presentation. This  was  that  of  Dr.  Gerritt  P.  Judd.  This 
gentleman  was  solicited  by  the  king  to  accept  of  the 
office  of  interpreter,  and  giving  up  his  connexion  with 
the  mission,  he  identified  himself  with  the  Hawaiian 
government.  Some  of  the  foreign  residents,  and  partic- 
ularly the  English,  took  occasion  from  this,  to  charge 
upon  the  missionaries  a  disposition  to  domineer  over  the 
king  and  people  for  the  benefit  of  themselves  and  of 
the  American  residents.  If  it  was  necessary  to  appoint 
a  foreigner  to  this  office,  doubtless  Dr.  Judd,  from  his 
thorough  knowledge  of  the  native  language  and  charac- 
ter, was  as  well  qualified  as  any  man;  and  from  his  hav- 
ing voluntarily  officiated,  and  possessing  a  high  reputa- 
tion among  the  natives,  it  was  natural  that  the  choice  of 
the  king  should  fall  on  him.  In  his  new  functions,  the 
Doctor  appears  to  have  given  great  satisfaction,  at  least 
to  the  king,  for  during  the  troubles  of  the  government 
with  the  English,  he  was  appointed  by  the  king  to  rep- 
resent his  person,  and  after  the  restoration  of  the  islands 
from  British  rule,  he  was  elevated  to  the  high  and  respon- 
sible office  of  secretary  of  state  for  foreign  affairs. 

A  third  appointment  from  among  the  missionaries  took 
place  in  1845.  This  was  that  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Andrews 
to  the  office  of  supreme  judge.  As  these  three  appoint- 
ments were  made  from  among  themselves  through  the 
influence  of  the  missionaries,  it  has  been  charged  upon 
them  by  the  enemies  of  the  mission,  that,  forgetting  their 
appropriate  calling,  they  had  used  the  extensive  influ- 
ence they  had  acquired  in  the  nation  to  arrogate  to  them- 
selves all  the  important  offices  of  state,  and  the  emolu- 
ments arising  from  such  offices.  But,  as  it  is  the  business 
of  the  journalist  to  state  facts,  and  neither  to  condemn 
nor  attempt  a  justification  of  the  important  transactions 
narrated,  it  will  not  be  expected  that  I  shall  appear  on 
either  side  of  the  unhappy  controversy  which  has  proved 
the  source  of  so  much  disquietude  to  the  foreign  residents 
on  the  Sandwich  Islands.  • 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  223 

In  accepting  the  reins  of  government,  when  proffered 
to  them,  doubtless  the  missionaries  acted  under  the  influ- 
ence of  a  justifiable  fear  for  the  safety  of  the  Protestant 
faith,  which  they  had  been  instrumental  in  establishing 
in  the  islands;  and  it  was  natural  for  them  to  prefer  a 
Christian  Protestant  to  either  an  immoral  or  a  Catholic 
domination. 

The  history  of  the  Sandwich  Island  gOA^ernment  during 
the  short  space  of  two  hundred  and  seventy-six  days,  in 
1843,  presents  three  of  the  most  remarkable  and  impor- 
tant events  that  ever  transpired  in  a  nation,  in  the  same 
length  of  time. 

The  first  was  the  cession  of  the  islands,  by  his  majesty 
Kamahamaha  and  the  Premier,  on  the  25th  day  of  Feb- 
ruary, 1843,  to  the  Right  Hon.  Lord  George  Paulet, 
on  the  part  of  her  Britanic  Majesty,  Victoria,  Queen 
of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland;  the  second  was  the  restor- 
ation of  the  islands  to  their  native  sovereign,  on  the  31st 
of  July,  1843,  by  Rear  Admiral  Thomas;  and  the  third 
was  the  united  declaration  of  Great  Britain  and  France, 
dated  on  the  28th  Nov.,  1843,  acknowledging  the  islands 
as  an  independent  State,  and  mutually  engaging  never 
to  take  possession,  neither  directly  nor  under  the  title  of 
protectorate,  or  under  any  other  form,  of  any  part  of 
the  territory  of  which  they  are  composed.  Kamehameha 
III.  was  driven  to  cede  his  sovereignty  to  Great  Britain 
provisionally,  in  consequence  of  charges  being  preferred 
against  him  by  British  subjects  which  he  was  utterly 
unable  to  meet,  and  which  in  fact  were  founded  in  great 
injustice.  Under  the  influence  of  wise  counsel  the  king 
preferred  to  lay  aside  his  crown  rather  than  act  a  dis- 
graceful part  by  complying  with  the  exorbitant  demands 
of  the  British  Lord,  and  await  for  the  final  decision  of 
Great  Britain  to  announce  that  the  Hawaiian  government 
had  passed  away,  or  that  the  crown  was  still  on  the 
brow  of  Kamehameha  III.  While  the  question  of  the 
life  or  death  of  the  Hawaiian  government  was  pending, 
the  British  ensign  was  waving  over  the  islands,  and  the 
reins  of  government  were  siezed  by  Lord  George  Paulet 
in  the  name  of  her  majesty,  Queen  Victoria.     His  Lord- 


224  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

ship  had  the  nonor  of  standing  at  the  head  of  the  govern- 
ment of  the  islands  during  one  hundred  and  fifty-six 
days;  but  on  the  arrival  of  Rear  Admiral  Thomas,  in 
the  Collingw^ood  line  of  battle  ships,  and  the  investigation 
of  the  grounds  of  the  difficulty  by  the  Admiral,  the 
course  pursued  by  Lord  George  was  unceremoniously 
condemned,  and  the  decision  of  the  British  government 
was  anticipated  by  Rear  Admiral  Thomas.  The  king 
was  restored  to  his  just  rights  on  the  31st  of  July,  in  a 
way  calculated  to  preserve  the  respect  due  to  royalty 
and  restore  confidence  and  good  feeling  among  all  the 
foreign  residents.  On  the  issuing  of  his  proclamation, 
declaring  that  Kamehameha  III.  still  reigned,  Rear  Ad- 
miral Thomas  was  hailed  as  the  deliverer  of  the  nation, 
and  the  people  were  as  loud  in  his  praises  as  they  were 
vociferous  in  their  reproaches  of  Lord  George;  and  the 
31st  of  July  was  registered  as  a  day  to  be  observed  as  a 
national  festival,  to  commemorate  the  restoration  of 
Kamehameha  to  the  throne  of  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
from  which  he  had  been  unjustly  driven. 

Since  the  settlement  of  these  troubles  and  the  acknow- 
ledgement of  the  independence  of  the  islands  by  three 
great  nations  under  an  unusual  engagement,  the  king 
appears  to  submit  the  government  principally  into  the 
hands  of  his  foreign  ministers.  The  cabinet,  with  the 
exception  of  the  premier,  is  composed  of  foreigners, 
three  of  whom  were  formerly  members  of  the  American 
mission,  and  two  arrived  at  the  islands  as  mere  private 
gentlemen.  One  of  them,  John  Ricord,  Esq.,  was  a 
young  adventurer  from  New  York,  who  crossed  the 
continent  by  the  way  of  St.  Louis  and  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, and  came  down  to  Oregon  in  the  fall  of  1843, 
professing  that  his  sole  errand  to  the  Pacific  was  to  seek 
a  fortune.  Not  finding  it  readily  along  the  coast  of  the 
Pacific,  he  resolved  to  commit  himself  to  its  winds  and 
waves.  Confined  in  Baker's  Bay  by  a  succession  of 
storms  which  lasted  forty  days  and  forty  nights,  he  at 
length  began  to  suspect  that  "  Old  Neptune  "  was  suspi- 
cious that  his  motives  for  invading  his  dominions,  were 
not  of  the  purest   kind;   but  finally  his  doubts  of   the 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  225 

favor  of  Neptune  subsided,  as  the  angry  elements  were 
hushed  to  silence,  and  the  gentle  breeze  wafted  him 
through  the  gateway  across  the  bar  of  the  Columbia 
Twenty-four  days  brought  him  along  side  of  Oahu,  the 
sight  of  which  he  hailed  with  transport,  as  he  felt  that 
confidence  which  is  the  harbinger  of  success.  Remain 
ing  in  a  voluntary  quarantine  for  a  day  or  two,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  dilapidated  state  of  his  wardrobe,  which 
he  found  it  necessary  to  repair  before  appearing  in  pub- 
lic, he  at  length  received  an  introduction  to  some  of  the 
members  of  the  cabinet  as  a  quahfied  member  of  the 
bar,  from  the  Empire  State.  Possessing  the  advantages 
arising  from  a  gentlemanly  appearance,  ready  wit,  and 
considerable  suavity  of  manners,  he  succeeded  immedi- 
ately in  ingratiating  himself  into  the  good  will  of  the 
members  of  the  government,  and  on  the  ninth  day  after 
his  arrival  he  took  the  oath  of  allegiance  to  Kamehameha 
III,  and  received  the  insignia  of  his  appointment  to  the 
honorable  and  responsible  office  of  Attorney  General  of 
the  Sandwich  Islands,  with  a  salary  of  two  thousand 
dollars  per  annum. 

The  other  was  a  vScotchman  by  the  name  of  Robert 
Crichton  Wyllie,  who  came  to  the  islands  in  the  company 
of  General  Miller,  her  Britanic  Majesty's  Consul  General 
for  the  islands  of  the  Pacific.  Probably  Mr.  Wyllie 
owes  his  promotion  to  his  present  distinguished  office  to 
the  interesting  *' Notes"  on  the  population,  religion, 
agriculture  and  commerce  of  the  islands,  which  he  pub- 
lished soon  after  his  arrival.  In  these  notes  the  mission- 
aries are  very  highly  commended,  and  some  very  wise 
suggestions  are  made  concerning  the  future  policy  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands'  government. 

The  cabinet  of  Kamehameha  III,  at  present  stands  as 
follows:  Dr.  G.  P.  Judd,  Minister  for  the  Interior,  Rev. 
Mr.  Richards,  Privy  Counsellor,  Rev.  Mr.  Andrews, 
Supreme  Judge,  Hon.  John  Ricord,  Attorney  General, 
and  Robert  Crichton  Wyllie,  Secretary  of  State  for 
Foreign  Aflfairs.  These  five  functionaries  constitute  the 
government  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  for  every  thing 
goes  according  to  their  direction.     In  all  the  great  trans- 


226  SANDWICH    I.SLANr>». 

actions  of  the  nation  in  its  intercourse  with  other  nations^ 
and  also  in  most  of  its  internal  affairs,  the  king  in  reaUty 
has  no  more  power  than  one  of  his  inferior  chiefs.  He 
says  himself,  that  he  is  a  mere  "  paper  king,"  that  his 
foreign  ministers  do  the  business,  and  bring  him  the 
papers  to  sign,  and  all  he  has  to  do  is  to  obey  them.  In 
consequence  of  this  apparent  assumption  of  powder  on 
the  part  of  the  foreigners  connected  with  the  government^ 
it  has  been  charged  upon  them  by  some,  that  they  are 
actuated  by  motives  of  selfish  ambition;  that  they  art- 
fully dupe  the  king  and  his  native  suite,  by  filling  them 
with  a  sense  of  their  own  importance,  w^hen  in  reahty 
they  are  mere  cyphers,  and  in  this  way  succeed  in  pro- 
moting their  own  aggrandizement.  But  the  truth  is 
that,  with  all  the  improvement  the  islanders  have  made,- 
they  still  remain  grossly  ignorant,  especially  on  the  great 
principles  of  government;  and,  so  extensive  is  their  inter- 
course with  other  nations,  and  so  comphcated  the  business 
to  be  transacted,  that  the  king  finds  it  indispensibly  ne- 
cessary to  put  the  helm  of  government  into  the  hands  of 
enlightened  foreigners;  and  thus  far  he  has  been  pecu- 
liarly fortunate  in  the  selections  he  has  made,  judging 
from  the  course  which  has  been  pursued.  For  w^hile  his 
ministers  have  been  careful  to  guard  their  own  reputa- 
tion, they  have  acted  as  though  they  believed,  that  their 
success  in  this  depended  on  their  faithfulness  in  guarding 
the  honor  and  interests  of  the  king. 

As  a  matter  of  course,  since  the  recognition  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands  as  belonging  to  the  great  family  of 
kingdoms,  the  ministers,  and  all  the  public  functionaries 
are  putting  on  much  of  the  dignity  and  importance  of 
royalty,  but  on  some  of  them  who  have  been  altogether 
unaccustomed  to  such  high  honors  as  result  from  their 
offices,  the  garments  of  court  etiquette  hang  but  loosely; 
nevertheless  they  may  be  considered  as  skillful  politicians 
if  they  steer  the  government  ship  so  as  to  escape  the 
Sylla  on  the  one  hand,  and  Charybdis  on  the  other,  to 
which  she  is  continually  exposed.  Now  that  the  three 
greatest  naval  powers  on  earth  have  entered  into  a 
mutual  understanding  never  to  take  possession  of  the 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  227 

islands  under  any  pretence  whatever,  the  safety  and 
perpetuity  of  the  government  depend  upon  the  course 
which  shall  be  pursued  with  other  nations.  So  long  as 
no  just  grounds  of  hostility  are  afforded,  the  engagement 
betwixt  the  three  great  powers  would  lead  them  to 
remonstrate  effectively  against  any  aggression  w^iich 
might  endanger  the  existence  of  the  government.  If 
the  astonishing  mortality  which  has  prevailed  so  long 
among  the  natives,  can  by  any  means  be  checked,  and 
the  fountains  of  life  be  purified,  so  that  children  shall 
again  be  multiphed  in  the  islands,  and  the  decrease  of 
numbers  be  effectually  staid,  then  may  we  expect  to  see, 
in  the  future  history  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  a  satisfac- 
tory proof  of  the  ability  of  the  copper-colored  race  to 
govern  themselves,  and  to  become  truly  civilized.  But 
if  the  tide  of  death  shall  continue  to  sweep  on  for  fifty 
years  to  come,  the  Hawaiian  nation  will  be  numbered 
among  the  things  that  have  been. 

In  connection  with  this  view  of  the  government,  it 
may  be  proper  to  consider  their  means  of  protection. 

Commanding  the  anchorage  is  a  fort  mounting  seventy 
guns,  varying  in  calibre  from  the  long  brass  thirty-two 
pounder  down  to  the  four  pounder.  The  fort  is  nearly 
a  quadrangle,  with  the  guns  pointing  on  all  sides,  and 
consequently  few  in  proportion,  pointing  to  seaward. 
A  small  naval  force  would  be  sufficient  to  silence  the 
guns  of  the  fort,  in  a  short  period.  As  the  fort  affords 
no  adequate  means  of  protection  from  an  attack  by  sea, 
the  money  laid  out  for  its  erection  and  the  purchase  of 
the  guns  mounted  upon  it,  one  of  which  cost  the  Hawai- 
ians  the  sum  of  ten  thousand  dollars,  was  very  foolishly 
expended.  So  far  as  their  being  able  to  defend  them- 
selves by  this  fort  is  concerned,  they  may  as  well  melt 
down  their  hig  guns  and  cast  them  into  poi-pots  as  tc- 
'".ontinue  the  fort  as  it  now  is.  It  will  probably  soon  bt 
demoHshed,  and  another  one  will  be  erected  on  the  reef, 
seaward  of  the  present  one,  which,  under  the  direction 
of  a  skillful  engineer,  will  serve  a  much  better  purpose. 

There  is  a  remarkable  hill  in  the  rear  of  Honolulu 
which   overlooks   the    city   and   harbor,    called   by  the 


228  SANDWICH    ISLANDS, 

natives  Puawana,  and  by  foreigners  Punch  Bowl  Hill, 
The  top  of  this  hill  is  concave,  the  center  of  it  being 
from  forty  to  fifty  feet  low^er  than  the  outer  edge.  It  is 
one  of  those  extinct  volcanoes,  whose  former  active 
operation  is  satisfactorily  established,  by  the  different 
strata  of  vitrified  lava  descending  from  the  top  of  the 
hill  on  all  sides,  at  the  depth  of  from  four  to  six  feet 
from  the  surface  of  the  soil.  On  the  almost  circular 
edge  of  this  hill,  on  the  side  next  the  city,  are  planted 
eleven  large  guns,  pointing  different  ways  ;  but  lying  on 
the  ground,  and  being  at  too  great  a  distance  from  the 
harbor,  they  are  entirely  useless  as  a  means  of  defence. 
Of  this  the  government  are  fully  aware  ;  but  they 
continue  the  guns  in  their  present  elevated  position  for 
the  purpose  of  firing  salutes  on  the  king's  birth-day,  and 
on  other  great  occasions.  These  being  all  the  visible 
means  of  protection  which  the  Hawaiians  have,  it  is 
obvious  that  they  will  owe  their  safety,  not  so  much  to 
any  martial  array  they  can  muster,  whether  on  land  or 
water,  as  to  an  impartial  administration  of  justice  to  all 
nations  with  whom  they  have  intercourse. 

The  prosperity  of  the  islands  is  entirely  dependent  on 
their  commerce,  and  the  annual  visits  of  whalers  and 
ships  of  war.  The  commerce  of  the  port  of  Honolulu, 
in  1843,  was  as  follows,  viz  :  twenty-five  American  ves- 
sels, nine  British,  four  French,  one  Spanish,  and  one 
German.  During  the  same  year  the  port  was  visited 
by  one  hundred  and  nine  whalers,  and  ten  ships  of  war. 
The  merchant  ships  left  goods  to  the  amount  of  upwards 
of  one  hundred  and  fifty-six  thousand  dollars,  and  the 
whale  ships  to  twenty-one  thousand  eight  hundred  dol- 
lars. It  is  estimated  that  the  visit  of  every  whaler  is 
worth  to  the  islands  from  eight  to  fifteen  hundred  dollars, 
and  every  ship  of  war  considerably  more.  Besides  the 
amount  of  vegetables,  &c.,  sold  to  the  various  ships 
touching  at  the  port,  there,  was  exported,  in  1843,  in  the 
produce  of  the  islands,  consisting  of  sugar,  molasses, 
Kukui  oil,  bullock-hides,  goat-skins,  arrow-root,  and 
mustard-seed,  the  amount  of  ninety-one  thousand  two 
hundred  and  forty-five  dollars. 


SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  229 

The  net  revenue  of  the  kingdom  in  the  same  year, 
embracing  duties,  harbor  dues,  6z^c.,  amounted  to  fifty 
thousand  dollars.  But,  as  the  islands  depend  mainly 
upon  the  whale  ships  that  annually  flock  to  their  ports, 
for  their  prosperity,  it  is  obvious  that,  were  the  whale 
fishery  to  fall  off,  or  were  the  vessels  engaged  in  it  to 
abandon  the  islands  for  some  port  on  the  main  land,  the 
Sandwich  Islands  would  relapse  into  their  primitive 
insignificance. 

The  diversion  of  whalers  to  some  other  port  has  been 
a  subject  of  alarm  to  the  Hawaiian  government,  espe- 
cially since  it  has  been  obvious  that  Upper  California, 
with  its  splendid  bay  of  San  Francisco,  would  soon  be- 
come the  property  of  the  United  States.  So  long  as 
this  noblest  harbor  of  the  Pacific  coast  is  blockaded 
against  whalers  by  the  enormous  port  charges  enforced 
by  the  mistaken  policy  of  Mexico,  the  Sandwich  Islands 
have  nothing  to  fear  ;  but,  when  Mexico  shall  relinquish 
her  hold  on  California,  and  a  large  commercial  city  shall 
adorn  the  shore  of  San  Francisco,  whose  quiet  harbor, 
free  of  charges,  shall  invite  the  weather  beaten  whale- 
man, then  a  fatal  check  will  be  given  to  the  prosperity 
of  the  islands,  and  much  of  their  present  importance 
will  disappear. 

The  great  value  of  this  fishery  to  those  places  where 
the  ships  are  under  the  necessity  of  putting  in  to  procure 
supplies,  will  appear  if  we  consider  its  amazing  extent. 
Take  for  instance  one  single  year.  Of  six  hundred 
American  whalers  that  were  in  active  operation  on  the 
different  oceans,  three  hundred  and  sixty-seven  visited 
the  tw^o  ports  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  Lahaira  and 
Honolulu  in  1843,  some  of  them  twice  in  the  same  year. 
Surely  no  nation  ever  sent  out  such  an  immense  fleet  of 
w^halers  as  now  sail  from  the  ports  of  the  United  States. 
Bold  and  adventurous,  the  Americans  carry  this  enter- 
prise into  every  portion  of  the  world  frequented  by  the 
object  of  their  perilous  search.  There  is  no  sea  that 
is  not  whitened  with  their  canvass,  and  no  climate  that 
does  not  witness  their  toils.  While  we  look  for  them 
among  the  icebergs  of  the  arctic  regions,  they  are  seen 


230  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

crossing  the  antarctic  circle,  and  hovering  around  the 
south  pole.  They  explore  the  vast  extent  of  the  At- 
lantic, Pacific  and  Indian  Oceans,  while  the  Carzette 
Islands,  New  Holland,  and  New  Zealand  are  witness  to 
their  hardy  and  persevering  industry.  And  as  the  im- 
mense fleet  of  whalemen  sailing  from  the  United  States 
around  Cape  Horn  have  been  dependent  upon  the  Sand- 
wich Islands  for  their  supplies,  so  they  have  given  to  the 
islands  much  of  the  importance  which  they  now  possess  ; 
and  if  the  inhabitants  of  the  islands  wish  to  preserve 
the  valuable  trade  arising  from  this  fishery,  they  will 
find  it  necessary  to  remove  all  the  disadvantages  of  port 
charges  under  which  whalemen  now  labor,  in  visiting 
their  harbors. 

Few  portions  of  the  world  aftbrd  a  greater  variety  of 
productions  than  the  Sandwich  Islands.  As  the  temper- 
ature in  the  different  parts  varies  from  forty  to  ninety 
degrees  in  the  shade,  so  nearly  all  the  productions  of 
the  temperate  and  torrid  zones,  here  come  to  maturity. 
In  the  Hawaiian  markets  of  their  own  production,  may 
be  found  arrow-root,  sugar-cane,  Kukui  oil,  castor  oil, 
mustard  seed,  coffee,  indigo,  cotton,  cabbages,  pine- 
apples, pumpkins,  melons,  oranges,  bananas,  figs,  grapes, 
sweet  potatoes,  Irish  potatoes,  onions,  taro,  Indian  corn, 
wheat,  rice,  tobacco,  beef,  pork,  goats,  turkeys,  fowls, 
cocoanuts,  mangoes,  and  bread-fruit.  Though  the  pro- 
ductions are  thus  various,  the  staff"  of  life  amongst  the 
natives  is  the  taro-root.  This  root  is  cultivated  on 
patches  of  ground  wholly  covered  with  water,  so  that 
the  plant  is  wholly  immersed,  excepting  the  large  green 
leaves.  It  grows  to  the  size  of  a  large  potato  ;  is  boiled 
by  the  natives;  prepared  in  the  form  of  paste,  and  eaten 
either  alone  or  with  dried  fish.  It  is  considered  a 
wholesome  food,  and  exceedingly  nutritious.  When 
thus  prepared  it  is  called  poi,  and  being  almost  indispen- 
sable to  the  subsistence  of  the  natives,  it  forms  one  of 
the  principal  articles  of  traffic  among  them. 

Society  in  Honolulu  becomes  a  subject  of  interest  to 
all,  whether  transient  visitors,  or  residents.  Though 
there  are  some  jealousies  existing  betwixt  the  subjects 


Sandwich  islands.  2a  1 

of  different  nations  concerning  the  degree  of  tavor 
which  they  respectively  enjoy  under  the  government^ 
the  British  complaining  that  the  Americans  have  more 
than  themselves,  and  the  Americans,  that  the  privileges 
enjoyed  by  the  British,  are  much  greater  than  theirs, 
and  the  French,  that  they  are  much  worse  off  than 
either  the  British  or  Americans  ;  yet  all  visitors  agree 
in  attributing  to  the  foreign  residents  at  Honolulu  a 
degree  of  hospitality  and  good  feehng  not  often  enjoyed 
in  any  other  part  of  the  world.  This  virtue  is  not  con- 
fined to  the  missionary  families,  but  is  a  general  charac- 
teristic of  the  foreign  society.  Strangers  w^ho  come 
well  recommended,  are  immediately  introduced  into 
society  of  a  highly  intellectual  and  polished  character, 
consisting  of  consuls  and  other  resident  officers,  naval 
captains  and  merchants,  and.  American  and  English 
ladies,  many  of  whom  are  highly  accomplished,  and 
possess  greater  personal  charms  than  usually  falls  to  the 
lot  of  even  the  fair  sex.  Embracing  the  missionary 
ladies,  there  are  about  thirty  in  Honolulu,  whose  pre- 
sence would  add  polish  to  the  very  best  society  our 
country  affords. 

One  characteristic  of  Hawaiian  society  is  peculiarly 
striking.  It  is  the  almost  universal  regard  paid  to  the 
Sabbath.  Whether  this  arises  from  a  deep  religious 
feeling  or  from  custom,  I  cannot  say  ;  but  certainly 
there  are  few  places  of  the  same  extent  where  more 
decency  and  order  are  observed  on  this  day  than  are 
apparent  in  Honolulu.  With  the  exception  of  a  few  of 
the  oldest  residents,  who  have  always  habituated  them- 
selves to  the  license  and  misrule  of  heathenism,  all  the 
foreign  residents  are  regular  in  their  attendance  at  the 
house  of  God.  Indeed,  it  is  very  seldom  that  the  quiet 
of  the  Sabbath  is  broken,  either  by  strangers  or  the 
natives  themselves. 

Though  there  is  a  class  in  Honolulu  that  ''  look  into 
the  cup  when  it  is  red,  that  continue  till  night,  till  wine 
inflame  them,"  yet  I  should  not  be  doing  justice  to  the 
society  of  the  place,  if  I  did  not  bear  witness  to  the 
general  prevalence  of  temperance-     During  the   three 


232  SANDWICH    ISLANDS. 

months  which  I  have  spent  on  the  islands,  I  have  seldom 
seen  a  drunken  man,  either  native  or  foreigner.  There 
are  no  beggars  parading  the  streets,  few  petty  thefts 
committed,  no  robberies,  seldom  an  assault  or  act  of 
violence,  unless  provoked  by  a  white  man.  Yet,  not- 
withstanding all  this,  and  all  that  has  been  done  for  their 
benefit,  the  state  of  the  native  Hawaiians  is  still  truly 
deplorable.  To  call  them  a  christianized,  civilized, 
happy,  and  prosperous  people,  would  be  to  mislead  the 
public  mind  in  relation  to  their  true  condition.  All 
these  terms  when  applied  to  the  Hawaiians,  should  be 
greatly  qualified.  Their  state  appears  to  be  that  spoken 
of  by  the  prophet  Zechariah  as  a  day  which  should  be 
neither  light  nor  dark,  with  this  difference,  perhaps,  that 
in  the  case  of  the  Hawaiians,  there  is  still  more  of  night 
than  of  day,  more  of  darkness  than  of  light.  To  an 
inquiiy  which  I  made  of  the  Rev.  Lowel  Smith,  one  of 
the  missionaries  in  Honolulu,  concerning  the  prosperity 
of  the  natives,  I  received  this  reply  :  "The  evident 
tendency  of  things  is  downward."  Downward  it  is 
rapidly,  in  point  of  numbers,  and  if  the  ratio  of  decrease 
shall  continue  the  same  for  only  a  few  years,  it  does  not 
require  the  eye  of  a  prophet  to  see  what  will  be  the 
result. 

The  epitaph  of  the  nation  will  be  wi'itten,  and  Anglo 
Saxons  will  convert  the  islands  into  another  West 
Indies. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Return  to  Oregon  -  Embarkation  -  Passengers  -  Horace  Holden  -  Thrilling  story  - 
The  whaleman  -  Voyage  -  Arrival  in  the  Columbia  River  -  Disagreeable  navi- 
gation —  Yearly  meeting  of  the  Missionaries  -  Appointments  —  Arrival  of  Rev. 
George  Gang  —  Reasons  for  his  appointment  -  Great  changes  -  Mr.  Lee  - 
George  Abernethy  —  Powers  of  th»  new  Superintendent  -  Special  meeting  — 
Voyage  —  Laymen  dismissed  —  Miscellaneous  —  Transporting  supplies  -  Another 
meeting  —  Oregon  Institute  —  Finances  of  the  Mission  brought  to  a  close  —  Num- 
ber of  Missionaries  returned  —  Number  remaining  in  the  field. 

On  the  morning  of  the  3rd  day  of  April,  it  was 
announced  by  Captain  Couch  that  the  Chenamus  was 
again  ready  for  sea,  and  that  the  passengers  were  expec- 
ted to  be  on  board  at  nine  o'clock.  According  to  the 
arrangement  before  Mr.  Lee's  departure,  we  had  secured 
our  passage,  and  were  ready  to  obey  the  summons  to 
embark,  and  the  following  evening  we  had  lost  sight  of 
the  beautiful  "  Isles  of  the  South,"  and  were  dancmg 
northward  over  the  waves  of  the  great  Pacific.  Among 
our  fellow  passengers  were  Dr.  J.  L.  Babcock  and  family, 
who  were  returning  to  Oregon,  to  resume  their  places 
in  the  mission,  and  Mr.  Horace  Holden  and  family,  who 
had  resided  some  time  on  the  island  of  Kaui,  where  they 
had  been  employed  in  the  manufacture  of  sugar.  He 
had  formerly  been  employed  in  the  whahng  business, 
and  on  one  of  his  voyages  his  vessel  was  wrecked,  and 
he  was  cast  away,  with  a  few^  of  his  companions,  on  one 
of  the  Pelew  Islands. 

Nearly  all  his  fellow  sufferers  were  cruelly  mur- 
dered by  the  savages  before  his  eyes,  and  he  saved  him- 
self from  the  same  fate  only  by  submitting  without 
resistance,  to  all  the  indignities  and  cruelties  that  savage 
ingenuity  could  invent  to  torment  a  man  without  killing 
him.  They  stripped  him  of  his  clothing,  and  then,  with 
10* 


234  RETURN    TO    OREGON. 

a  kind  of  pinchers,  pulled  every  hair  from  his  body;  they 
bound  him  down  to  the  ground,  and  then  in  a  most  cruel 
manner,  tattooed  upon  his  breast  and  arms,  the  most 
hideous  and  indehble  figures,  and  then  pronounced  him 
worthy  to  live  and  be  their  slave.  Remaining  with  them 
for  more  than  a  year,  at  length,  to  his  inexpressible  joy, 
a  vessel  visited  the  island,  and  he  was  released  from  his 
intolerable  wretchedness.  Returning  to  Boston,  he 
published  a  brief  narrative  of  his  shipwreck  and  captiv- 
ity, and  soon  after  married,  and  with  his  wife  sailed  for 
the  Sandwich  Islands.  With  an  interesting  family  he 
now  goes  to  Oregon  with  the  intention  of  spending  the 
remainder  of  his  life. 

The  third  day  from  Oahu  we  were  boarded  by  Captain 
Sawyer,  a  whaleman,  whose  vessel  had  sprung  a  leak  so 
that  it  required  the  constant  exertions  of  his  men  at 
pumping,  to  keep  her  afloat.  The  Captain  told  us  that 
if  the  leak  increased  it  was  doubtful  whether  he  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  her  into  port,  but  said  he  should  do  his 
utmost  to  accomplish  it.  He  said  he  had  pumped  out  of 
her  "  all  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,"  and  when  he  left  he 
requested  us  to  report  him  the  first  opportunity,  that  if 
he  failed  in  getting  her  in,  it  would  be  known  what  had 
become  of  him. 

After  this  nothing  especial  transpired  on  our  voyage 
demanding  notice;  the  wind  and  weather  were  favorable 
so  that  we  made  fine  progress  every  day,  and  on  the 
twentieth,  after  leaving  port,  we  made  the  high  lands 
north  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River. 

Crossing  the  bar  in  safety,  in  a  few  hours  we  came  to 
anchor  in  the  river  off  Fort  George,  where  we  found  it 
exceedingly  pleasant  again  to  set  our  feet  on  tei^ra  jirma. 
Weighing  anchor  the  following  day,  we  ascended  the 
Columbia,  but  owing  to  the  intricacy  of  the  navigation, 
we  did  not  gain  the  mouth  of  the  Wallamette  River, 
until  three  days  after.  So  slow  was  our  progress  in  the 
brig  that  Dr.  Babcock,  Mr.  Holden  and  myself^  requested 
and  obtained  the  use  of  the  barge,  to  ascend  the  river 
to  the  Wallamette  Falls.  Taking  our  famihes  with  us, 
we  labored  with  the  oar  until  towards  evening,  when  we 


.RETURN     TO    OKEtJON.  235 

arrived  at  the  toot  of  the  strong  rapids,  one  mile  below 
the  falls.  Unable  to  ascend  the  rapids  with  the  use  of 
our  oars,  we  were  obliged  to  get  into  the  river  where 
the  water  was  up  to  our  waists,  and  almost  as  cold  as 
ice,  and  draw  up  the  boat  by  main  strength.  In  doing 
this  we  were  obliged  to  remain  in  the  water  for  more 
than  an  hour,  and,  until  we  became  so  benumbed  that 
we  could  scarcely  stand  upon  our  feet.  However,  we 
gained  the  head  of  the  rapids  in  safety,  and  in  a  half  an 
hour  after,  were  comfortably  seated  by  the  fireside  of 
our  good  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  George  Abernethy,  of 
the  Oregon  mission. 

The  mission  had  been  left  by  Mr.  Lee,  under  the 
superintendency  of  Rev.  David  Leslie;  and  as  the  yearlj^ 
meeting  of  the  missionaries  took  place  soon  after  our 
arrival,  it  was  arranged  for  me  to  supply  Oregon  City 
and  Tuality  Plains  with  preaching,  while  Mr.  Leshe 
supplied  the  Wallamette  settlement,  and  Mr.  Waller  was 
to  preach  to  the  Indians  along  the  Wallamette  River, 
Mr.  Parrish  to  supply  the  station  on  Clatsop  Plahis,  and 
Mr.  Perkins  still  to  remain  at  the  Dalls. 

Four  missionaries  had  returned  to  the  United  States, 
the  station  at  Puget's  Sound  had  been  abandoned,  and 
the  four  appointments  mentioned  above  connected  with 
the  mission  school  and  the  various  secular  departments, 
constituted  the  Oregon  mission,  w^hen  the  Rev.  George 
Gary,  the  newly  appointed  superintendent,  arrived  at 
Wallamette  Falls  on  the  1st  day  of  June,  1844. 

Mr.  Gary  had  been  appointed  to  supercede  Mr.  Lee  in 
the  superintendency  of  the  mission  in  consequence  of  the 
dissatisfaction  of  the  Board  in  New  York  with  the  latter, 
arising  from  the  supposition  founded  in  the  statements 
of  niissionaries,  oral  and  written,  that  they  ''  had  been 
misled  as  to  the  necessity  of  so  great  a  number  of  mis- 
sionaries in  Oregon,"  and  from  the  to  them,  "  unaccount- 
able fact  that  they  had  not  been  able  to  obtain  any 
satisfactory  report  of  the  manner  in  w^hich  the  large 
appropriations  to  the  late  reinforcement  had  been  dis- 
bursed." These  objections,  however  valid  in  the  esti- 
mation of  the  Board,   should  not  be  considered  as  any 


236  RETURN  TO  OREGON. 

disparagement  to  the  character  of  Mr.  Lee.  Changes 
inconceivably  great  with  respect  to  the  Indians  of  Ore- 
gon took  place  betwixt  the  time  the  great  reinforcement 
was  called  for,  and  the  time  of  their  arrival  in  the 
Columbia  River.  The  natives  were  wasting  away 
during  the  time,  like  the  dews  of  the  morning,  so  that 
Mr.  Lee  himself,  on  his  return  to  Oregon  with  the  rein- 
forcement, was  not  among  the  least  disappointed. 

Other  persons  have  fallen  into  the  same  mistake  with 
respect  to  the  Indians.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Parker,  in  his 
exploring  tour,  which  took  place  only  the  year  previous 
to  Mr.  Lee's  first  return,  according  to  his  representa- 
tions, found  the  Indians  very  numerous,  and  everywhere 
desiring  missionaries  to  come  among  them.  For  in- 
stance, the  Callapooah  tribe  in  the  valley  of  the  Walla- 
mette,  where  Mr.  Lee  estabhshed  his  mission,  Mr. 
Parker  represents  as  numbering,  in  1836,  over  eight 
thousand  souls;  and  in  1840,  six  hundred  were  all  that 
could  be  found  in  that  valley.  Similar  changes  had 
taken  place  in  other  tribes,  changes  that  no  human  wis- 
dom could  possibly  have  foreseen.  Besides  this,  at  the 
time  the  call  was  made  for  the  great  reinforcement, 
there  were  but  very  few  whites  in  Oregon,  and  the 
missionaries  had  been  obliged  to  devote  much  of  their 
time  to  manual  labor  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  a 
subsistence,  and  as  no  one  could  have  imagined  that  the 
country  would  have  been  so  soon  supplied  with  an  indus- 
trious population  of  Americans,  it  was  judged  essential 
and  important  by  Mr.  Lee  and  his  coadjutors  in  the 
work,  that  the  mission  should  be  supphed  with  a  variety 
of  secular  men,  embracing  farmers,  mechanics,  account- 
ants, &c.,  whose  labors  would  relieve  the  missionaries 
from  temporal  pursuits,  and  enable  them  to  devote  their 
time  to  the  spiritual  interests  of  the  people.  It  is  by  no 
means  certain  that  the  Missionary  Board,  with  all  its 
foresight,  placed  in  the  same  position  that  Mr.  Lee  and 
his  brethren  occupied  in  Oregon  at  that  time,  would  not 
have  come  to  the  same  conclusion. 

With  regard  to  the  objection  against  Mr.  Lee,  arising 
from  his  not   furnishing   the   Board  with  the  desirable 


RETURN    TO    OREGON.  2S7 

report  concerning  the  disbursements  of  the  large  appro- 
priation, it  should  be  observed  that  no  such  charge  of 
delinquency  appears  against  him  up  to  the  time  of  the 
appointment  of  the  great  reinforcement.  Every  thing 
with  respect  to  the  use  of  money  appears  to  have  been 
done  to  the  entire  satisfaction  of  the  Board,  and  resolu- 
tions were  passed,  and  articles  published  in  the  Christian 
Advocate  and  Journal,  and  other  papers,  commendatory 
of  the  character  and  course  pursued  by  our  "  excellent 
superintendent;"  but  when  the  business  of  the  mission 
became  more  complicated,  in  consequence  of  the  ap- 
pointment of  a  large  number  of  men  of  a  variety  of 
pursuits,  it  was  found  necessary  to  appoint  a  financial 
agent,  or  mission  steward,  whose  business  it  should  be 
to  keep  an  exact  account  of  the  manner  in  which  the 
funds  of  the  mission  were  expended,  and  to  prepare  the 
annual  reports  of  the  disbursements.  Mr.  George  Aber- 
nethy,  of  New  York,  than  whom  but  few  men  could  be 
found  better  qualified  to  bear  its  responsibilities,  was 
appointed  to  this  important  post.  I  am  aware  that  Mr. 
Lee,  as  the  superintendent  of  the  mission,  was  the  re- 
sponsible man,  but  after  the  accounts  of  the  mission 
were  committed  to  the  keeping  of  Mr.  Abernethy,  it 
was  impossible  for  Mr.  Lee,  or  any  other  man,  to  make 
out  the  reports,  except  Mr.  Abernethy  himself.  To  him 
every  thing  was  clear,  and  the  manner  in  which  every 
dollar  of  the  mission's  money  was  expended  could  be 
accounted  for,  by  a  reference  to  his  well  kept  books. 
If  the  Board  was  disappointed  in  not  receiving  a  satis- 
factory report,  it  is  doubtless  chargeable  upon  the  unset- 
tled state  of  the  mission  for  the  first  two  years  after  the 
arrival  of  the  large  reinforcement,  and  the  multiplicity 
of  business  upon  the  hands  of  the  superintendent,  and 
the  missionary  steward.  Be  this  as  it  may,  the  Mission- 
ary Board,  at  a  regular  meeting  held  July  19th,  1843, 
recommended  to  the  bishop  havmg  charge  of  foreign 
missions,  either  the  appointment  of  a  special  agent  to 
proceed  to  Oregon  and  investigate  the  financial  concerns 
of  the  mission,  or  supercede  Mr.  Lee  by  a  new  superin- 
tendent.     The  latter  course  was  decided  upon  by  the 


238  RETURN.  TO    OREGON. 

bishop,  and  in  the  September  following  it  was  announced 
that  the  Rev.  George  Gary  of  the  Black  River  Confer- 
ence was  appointed  to  the  superintendency  of  the  Oregon 
mission. 

The  instructions  to  the  new  superintendent  were  few, 
but  he  was  clothed  with  discretionary  power,  and  had 
the  destiny  of  missionaries,  laymen,  property  and  all, 
put  into  his  hands.  With  this  unlimited  authority  Mr. 
Gary  on  arriving  in  Oregon,  entered  at  once  upon  the 
delicate  and  responsible  duties  which  devolved  upon 
him. 

On  the  5th  of  June,  Mr.  Gary,  myself,  and  our  fami- 
lies left  the  falls  and  proceeded  up  the  Wallamette 
River  in  a  canoe,  for  the  purpose  of  attending  a  meeting 
of  the  missionaries,  called  by  the  superintendent  at  the 
house  of  Rev.  David  Leslie,  in  the  upper  settlement. 
The  distance  to  travel  was  about  fifty  miles,  twenty  by 
water,  and  thirty  by  land.  We  had  made  arrangements 
for  persons  to  meet  us  at  the  Butte  with  means  of  land 
traveling,  and  expected  to  get  through  in  a  day,  and 
therefore  had  not  prepared  for  camping  out;  but  opposed 
by  the  strength  of  the  current,  and  our  horses  failing  to 
arrive  in  time,  w^e  preferred  to  make  ourselves  as  com- 
fortable as  possible  under  the  wide  spread  branches  of 
a  majestic  fir,  to  traveling  during  the  night.  This  was 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gary's  first  encampment  in  Oregon. 
Though  we  had  no  bedding  to  keep  our  bodies  warm  dur- 
ing the  night,  yet,  fortunately  for  our  hungry  stomachs, 
we  had  left  of  what  we  had  provided  for  the  day  a 
a  quarter  of  a  large  fresh  salmon.  This  1  filled  with 
splinters  to  prevent  its  falling  to  pieces  while  cooking, 
and  then  fastening  in  the  forks  of  a  stick,  roasted  it 
before  the  fire.  This,  with  tea  and  bread,  constituted 
our  supper.  As  the  night  was  not  cold  we  enjoyed  a 
comfortable  rest,  though  our  bed  was  mother  earth,  and 
our  covering  the  canopy  of  heaven. 

On  the  6th,  arrived  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Leslie,  and 
the  following  day  the  missionaries  were  all  collected, 
with  the  exception  of  Mr.  Perkins  and  Mr.  Brewer,  at 
the  Dalls.      The  meeting  was  called  for  the  purpose  of 


RETURN    TO    OREGON.  239 

consultation  concerning  the  various  departments  of  the 
mission,  and  though  commenced  at  an  early  hour  of  the 
day,  such  was  the  interest  involved  that  the  investiga- 
tion continued  until  daylight  the  next  morning.  Some 
important  changes  in  the  mission  were  agitated,  and  it 
was  decided  to  sell  the  mission  property  at  Clatsop,  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River,  consisting  of  a  farm, 
buildings,  and  stock.  Mr.  Gary  informed  the  laymen 
connected  with  the,  mission,  that  he  intended  to  dismiss 
them,  and  proposed  to  defray  their  expenses  home,  if 
they  wished  to  return,  or  pay  them  an  equivalent  in 
such  property  as  the  mission  possessed,  in  Oregon. 
With  the  exception  of  one,  they  preferred  to  remain  in 
the  country,  and  accoi'dingly  mission  property  was  dis- 
bursed among  the  different  families  to  the  amount  of 
from  eight  hundred  to  a  thousand  dollars  each.  The 
course  adopted  by  Mr.  Gary  in  disposing  of  the  laymen 
belonging  to  the  mission,  was  as  satisfactory  to  the 
latter,  as  it  was  just  and  honorable  in  the  superintendent. 
All  the  secular  members  of  the  mission  were  thus  hon- 
orably discharged,  except  Mr.  Brewer,  the  farmer  a't 
the  Dalls.  It  was  thought  the  interests  of  that  station 
required  his  continuance.  The  appointments  of  the 
missionaries  which  took  place  at  the  yearly  meeting 
before  Mr.  Gary's  arrival,  were  confirmed. 

On  Sunday,  9th,  preached  at  the  mission  school-house 
to  upwards  oif  thirty  persons,  a  good  congregation  for 
Oregon  ;  also  at  the  house  near  the  saw-mill.  These 
houses  have  been  erected  since  the  arrival  of  the  large 
reinforcement.  They  occupy  a  beautiful  location,  and 
the  school-house  is  by  far  the  most  sightly  building  in 
Oregon.  It  is  seventy-five  by  forty-eight  feet  on  the 
ground,  three  stories  high,  and  cost  eight  thousand 
dollars. 

On  Wednesday,  the  12th,  left  the  mission  school  to 
return  to  the  falls,  leaving  my  family  behind  for  the  time 
being,  intending  to  return  and  get  them  after  a  few  days. 
As  it  had  been  settled  that  I  should  remain  at  the  falls 
for  at  least  one  year,  I  purchased  a  couple  of  cows  with 
their   calves   for    the   purpose  of    furnishing   my  family 


240  RETURN    TO    OREGON. 

with  the  luxury  of  milk  and  butter.  The  distance  from 
the  mission  school  to  the  falls  by  land,  is  fifty  miles,  and 
about  one-third  of  the  way  is  forest.  Towards  evening 
of  the  first  day,  while  urging  my  animals  along  the  nar- 
row zig-zag  Indian  trail  leading  through  the  dark  forest 
which  skirts  the  Molala  River,  the  piteous  and  well 
known  cry  of  a  panther  but  a  few  rods  from  the  path, 
brought  man  and  beast  at  once  to  a  stand.  Remaining  for 
a  moment,  and  discovering  that  tha  beast  of  prey  was 
disposed  to  let  us  pass,  I  pushed  on  as  fast  as  possible, 
desiring  to  get  as  far  as  I  could  from  the  haunts  of  my 
troublesome  neighbor,  before  dark,  for  fear  my  animals 
might  be  attacked  during  the  night.  Arriving  at  nine 
o'clock  on  a  little  prairie  between  the  Molala  and  Har- 
chauke  Rivers,  I  tied  my  calves  to  a  small  oak  tree  with 
a  lasso,  built  a  fire  in  a  small  hut  which  one  of  the  set- 
tlers had  built  some  time  before,  and  abandoned,  and 
rolling  myself  in  my  blanket,  lay  down  to  sleep.  In  the 
morning  I  found  all  safe,  the  panther  had  kept  his  dis- 
tance. Loosing  my  animals  I  proceeded  on,  and  at 
night  arrived  in  safety  at  the  falls. 

Friday,  14th.  Returned  to  the  upper  settlement,  and 
preached  the  following  Sabbath  again  at  the  mission 
school. 

Wednesday,  19th.  Having  procured  a  quantity  of 
supplies,  consisting  of  wheat,  beef,  potatoes,  &c.,  I  hired 
it  conveyed  to  the  Bute,  and  thence  took  it  in  a  canoe 
down  to  the  falls.  This  is  the  manner  of  transporting 
provisions  in  the  country — a  very  laborious  and  danger- 
ous method. 

Spent  a  few  days  in  forwarding  my  house,  which  I 
had  purchased  in  Oregon  City  soon  after  we  returned 
from  the  islands,  being  quite  solicitous  to  occupy  it  as 
soon  as  possible.  Mr.  Gary  and  his  wife  have  decided 
to  reside  with  us  in  preference  to  keeping  house.  They 
are  still  in  the  upper  settlement,  where  Mr.  Gary  is 
arranging  business  with  the  lay  members  preparatory  to 
their  dismission. 

Sabbath,  23d.  Preached  to  a  congregation  of  about 
forty  persons  in  the  Methodist  Church  at  the  falls,  and 


RETURN    TO    OREGON.  241 

proved  the  truth  of  the  Saviour's  promise,  ''  Lo,  I  am 
with  you." 

Tuesday,  25th.  Returned  to  the  settlement  above,  to 
attend  a  meeting  of  the  Methodist  Society  at  the  mission 
school,  the  following  day.  The  meeting  was  called  by 
Mr.  Gary,  and  related  to  the  Oregon  Institute. 

Ever  since  soon  after  the  arrival  of  the  large  rein- 
forcement in  1840,  the  people  of  Oregon  had  been 
endeavoring  to  establish  a  literary  institution  bearing 
the  name  of  the  '•  Oregon  Institute."  They  had  so  far 
succeeded  as  to  secure  a  very  eligible  location  about 
three  miles  from  the  Oregon  Mission  school,  and  build  a 
house  w4iich  was  nearly  completed,  at  an  expense  of 
about  three  thousand  dollars.  It  was  now  proposed  by 
Mr.  Gary  to  sell  the  Oregon  Mission  school  house  and 
premises,  and  disband  the  school ;  and  though  he  had  an 
opportunity  to  sell  it  to  the  Roman  Catholics  for  a  high 
price,  he  preferred  to  sell  it  to  the  trustees  of  the  Oregon 
Institute  for  much  less.  It  was  exceedingly  desirable  on 
the  part  of  the  trustees,  to  secure  this  property,  as,  from 
the  location  of  the  farm,  embracing  a  mile  square,  it 
was  very  valuable,  and  the  house  itself  cost  the  mission 
not  less  than  eight  thousand  dollars.  Having  an  oppor- 
tunity to  sell  the  first  mentioned  premises  without  much 
sacrifice,  they  w^ere  disposed  of,  and  the  Oregon  Mission 
school-house  and  farm  were  purchased  at  an  expense  of 
four  thousand  dollars,  and  are  hereafter  to  be  known  as 
the  Oregon  Institute.  For  the  promotion  of  the  interests 
of  the  church,  and  for  the  welfare  of  this  rising  country, 
a  more  judicious  appropriation  of  the  property  of  the 
former  mission  school  could  not  have  been  made.  By 
selhng  it  to  the  Catholics,  Mr.  Gary  could  have  taken 
more  money  for  it,  but  it  w^ould  have  been  converted 
into  a  nunnery.  Every  Protestant  will  say,  "Rather 
give  it  all  away,  than  desecrate  it  to  so  impious  a  pur- 
pose." 

The  institution  stands  upon  an  elevated  portion  of  a 
beautiful  plain,  surrounded  with  the  most  delightful 
scenery,  and  at  a  point  which,  at  some  future  day,  is 
destined  to  be  one  of  considerable  importance. 


242  RETURN    TO    OREGON. 

The  building  is  beautifully  proportioned,  being  seventy- 
five  feet  long  and  forty-eight  wide,  including  the  wings, 
and  three  stories  high.  When  finished  it  will  not  only 
present  a  fine  appearance  without,  but  will  be  commo- 
dious, and  w^ell  adapted  to  the  purposes  intended  to  be 
accomphshed  within.  It  is  already  so  far  advanced  that 
a  school  is  now  in  successful  operation,  under  the  tuition 
of  one  well  qualified  to  sustain  its  interests.  Already  it 
numbers  more  students  than  did  either  the  Cazenovia 
Seminary  or  the  Willbraham  Acadamy,  at  their  com- 
mencement, and  who  can  tell  but  that  it  may  equal,  if 
not  exceed  both  those  institutions  in  importance,  as  well 
as  usefulness.  Though  I  cannot  say  that  it  is  the  only 
hope  of  Oregon,  for  whether  it  lives  or  dies,  Oregon  will 
yet  be  redeemed  from  the  remains  of  Paganism  and  the 
gloom  of  Papal  darkness  by  which  she  is  enshrouded; 
but  the  sentiment  forces  itself  on  the  mind  that  the  sub- 
ject of  the  Oregon  Institute  is  vital  to  the  interests  of 
the  Methodist  Episcopal  church  in  this  country.  If  it 
lives,  it  will  be  a  luminary  in  the  moral  heavens  of 
Oregon,  shedding  abroad  the  light  of  knowledge  after  its 
founders  shall  have  ceased  to  live.  But  if  it  dies,  our 
sun  is  set,  and  it  is  impossible  to  tell  what  will  succeed. 
Perhaps  a  long  and  cheerless  night  of  Papal  darkness, 
but  more  probably,  others,  more  worthy  of  the  honor 
than  ourselves,  will  come  forth  to  mould  the  moral  mass 
according  to  their  own  liking,  and  give  direction  to  the 
hterature  of  Oregon. 

After  the  transfer  of  the  premises  of  the  Oregon 
Mission  School  to  the  trustees  of  the  Oregon  Institute, 
all  the  remaining  financial  departments  connected  with 
the  mission,  were  disposed  of  principally  to  those  lay- 
men who  had  been  dismissed  from  the  mission,  and  the 
property  thus  sold,  amounted  to  upwards  of  twenty-six 
thousand  dollars.  The  finances  of  the  Oregon  Mission 
were  thus  summarily  brought  to  a  close,  and  the  mission 
was  not  only  relieved  of  a  ponderous  load,  but  assumed 
a  decidedly  spiritual  character. 

Previous  to  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Gary,  four  of  the 
preachers,  besides  Mr.  Jason  Lee,  namely:  W.  W.  Kone, 


RETURN  TO  OREGON.  243 

J.  H  Frost,  J.  p.  Richmond,  and  Daniel  Lee,  had  re- 
turned to  the  United  States ;  consequently,  after  the 
dismission  of  the  laymen,  there  remained  connected 
with  the  mission  five  preachers,  namely:  George  Gary, 
the  superintendent,  David  Leslie,  A.  F.  Waller,  H.  R. 
W.  Perkins  and  G.  Hines.  H.  R.  W.  Perkins  in  the 
latter  part  of  the  summer  of  1844  also  returned  to  the 
United  States,  leaving  but  few  regular  preachers  in  the 
country. 

These,  disencumbered  from  all  financial  embarrass- 
ments, addressed  themselves  to  their  work  in  the  various 
portions  of  the  country  assigned  them,  A.  F.  Waller 
filling  the  place  made  vacant  by  the  departure  of  Mr. 
Perkins  at  the  Dalls,  David  Leslie  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  Wallamette  settlement,  and  G.  Gary  and  G.  Hines 
at  the  Wallamette  Falls  and  Tuality  Plains.  The  Dalls 
w^as  the  only  Indian  Mission  now  sustained,  and  both 
here  and  among  the  white  settlements,  it  was  necessary 
for  the  missionary  constantly  to  expose  himself  to  fatigue 
and  dangers  in  hunting  up  the  people  to  give  them  the 
word  of  life.  Fording,  and  swimming  rivers,  sleeping 
on  the  ground  and  in  the  rain,  and  going  without  food, 
were  no  uncommon  incidents  in  the  life  of  the  Oregon 
missionary. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Final  departure  and  voyage  home  —  Notice  of  Captain  Sylvester  —  Arrangements  to 
leave  —  Mode  ol'  departure  —  Vancouver  again  —  Clatsop  Plains  —  On  board  the 
brig  Chenamus  —  Difficult  navigation  —  Danger  —  Get  into  the  Bay  —  Fair 
breeze  —  Exit  —  Fellow  passengers  —  T.  J.  Hubbard  —  Wave  and  Devenporl  — 
Mode  of  taking  a  porpoise  —  Scarcity  of  men  —  Scarcity  of  incident —  Pilot  fish  — 
Make  land  —  Spoken  by  the  English  brig  Frolic  —  Shipping  —  Arrival  at  Oahu  — 
Reception  —  Review  of  the  Mission. 

On  the  10th  of  August,  1845,  notice  was  given  by 
Captain  Sylvester,  that  the  Brig  Chenamus  would  sail 
from  the  Waliamette  River  for  Boston  by  the  way  of 
the  Sandwich  Islands  about  the  1st  of  September,  and 
that  a  few  passengers  might  be  comfortably  accommo- 
dated on  board.  Mr.  Gary  began  already  to  consider 
that  his  work  in  Oregon  was  accomplished,  and  he  felt 
quite  solicitous  to  avail  himself  of  the  opportunity  of- 
fered, to  return  home;  but  kindly  proposed  to  leave  it 
altogether  with  the  writer,  to  say  which,  whether  the 
latter,  or  himself,  should  be  the  favored  one,  at  the  same 
time  assuring  me,  that  if  he  left,  and  I  should  remain  in 
the  country,  he  should  leave  the  superintendency  of  the 
mission  with  me.  This,  after  a  night  of  the  utmost 
solicitude,  brought  me  to  the  conclusion  to  close  up  my 
missionary  labors,  and  leave  the  scene  of  toil  and  dan- 
ger, and  set  my  face  towards  my  native  land.  Rev.  Mr. 
Gary,  as  the  superintendent  of  the  mission,  made  ar- 
rangements with  the  Captain  for  my  passage,  and  that 
of  my  family,  consisting  of  Mrs.  Hines,  her  sister,  Miss 
Julia  Bryant,  her  sister,  and  Lucy  Anna  Maria  Lee,  the 
daughter  of  Rev.  Jason  Lee,  who  had  already  returned 
to  the  United  States. 

The  amount  required  was  one  hundred  and  fifty  dol- 
lars  from   Oregon    to  the   Sandwich   Islands,   and  five 


HOMEWARD    VOYAGE.  245 

hundred  and  twenty  from  the  Islands  to  Boston,  by  the 
way  of  Cape  Horn. 

Through  the  kind  assistance  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gary, 
and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Abernethy,  we  found  ourselves  pre- 
pared to  leave  Oregon  City  at  the  Wallamette  Falb,  on 
the  29th  of  August,  1845.  The  brig  had  already  dropped 
down  the  river,  and  it  was  necessary  for  us  to  descend 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  in  an  open  boat.  Pro- 
curing a  skiff  which  belonged  to  the  mission,  I  loaded 
my  baggage  into  it,  leaving  a  place  in  the  centre  for  the 
accommodation  of  my  family.  After  dining  with  our 
kind  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Abernethy,  we  repaired  to 
the  boat  to  take  our  departure.  Adjusting  the  family  in 
their  place,  I  gave  one  oar  into  the  hands  of  Kana,  my 
Hawaiian  servant,  and  the  other  to  James  Hemingway, 
an  Indian  boy  who  had  resided  with  us  for  some  time, 
and  myself  took  the  stern  oar.  We  w^aved  a  farewell 
to  our  friends  who  stood  on  the  top  of  the  bluff  above 
us,  and  silently,  but  not  without  the  deepest  emotion, 
glided  off  into  the  strong  current  of  the  river.  Quickly 
the  beautiful  cataract  and  its  flourishing  village  were 
hidden  from  our  view  by  the  dark  point  of  fir  timber 
which  we  had  left  behind  us. 

Rowing  twenty-eight  miles,  we  arrived,  late  in  the 
evening,  within  two  miles  of  Vancouver,  but  not  wishing 
to  disturb  the  gentlemen  of  the  fort  at  so  late  an  hour, 
we  encamped  for  the  night.  Next  morning  went  up  to 
the  fort  to  complete  our  preparations  for  sea;  were  very 
kindly  received  by  James  Douglass,  Esq.,  w^ho  by  his 
friendly  attentions,  and  acts  of  benevolence,  paved  the 
way  to  render  our  voyage  to  the  islands  much  more 
agreeable  than  it  otherwise  would  have  been. 

Saturday,  at  two,  p.  m.,  left  Fort  Vancouver,  and 
descending  the  Columbia  ten  miles,  encamped  in  a  grove 
of  willows  near  the  margin  of  the  river,  where  we  re- 
mained quietly,  during  the  Holy  Sabbath. 

Monday,  the  2nd,  we  continued  our  voyage,  and  after 
three  days  of  excessive  labor  and  fatigue,  accompanied 
with  imminent  dangers  and  exposures,  during  which  we 
knew  not   the   luxury  of  eating  or   sleeping  under  the 


t46  HOMEWARD    VOYAGE. 

cover  of  a  roof,  v^^e  arrived  in  safety  at  the  house  of 
Rev.  J.  L.  Parrish,  on  Clatsop  Plains,  about  seven  miles 
in  the  rear  of  Point  Adams  at  the  mouth  of  the  Colum- 
bia. Here  we  remained  until  Saturday  the  sixth,  when 
we  were  informed  by  Captain  Sylvester  that  the  brig 
lay  in  Young's  Bay,  and  was  ready  to  receive  us  on 
board.  Taking  an  affecting  leave  of  our  old  friends  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Parrish,  with  whom  we  had  lived  on  terms  of 
intimacy  in  our  native  land,  and  with  whom  we  had 
suffered  the  perils  of  a  voyage  of  more  than  twenty- 
two  thousand  miles,  as  well  as  the  dangers  and  depriva- 
tions of  a  residence  among  the  most  savage  of  men,  we 
were  conducted  through  a  forest  of  fir  to  a  landing  on 
the  Seapanowan  Creek,  the  mouth  of  which  forms  a 
good  harbor  for  small  craft.  Here  a  boat  was  sent  to 
take  us  off,  and  at  four  o'clock,  p.  m.,  we  found  ourselves 
comfortably  situated  on  board  the  brig  Chenamus,  with 
our  things  nicely  packed  away  in  our  state  rooms,  wait- 
ing for  a  favorable  wind  and  tide  to  take  us  to  sea. 

Sunday,  7th.  In  the  morning  the  Calapooah,  a  small 
sail-boat,  came  along  side  from  shore,  bringing  vegetables 
and  beef  for  the  Chenamus.  With  her  I  expected  Kana, 
my  Hawaiian,  but  he  had  absconded  during  the  night, 
choosing  rather  to  remain  in  Oregon  than  to  go  back  to 
his  native  island. 

Monday,  8th.  Weighed  anchor  in  the  morning  before 
sunrise,  with  the  wind  in  the  north-east,  and  a  strong 
ebb  tide.  Soon  the  wind  died  away,  and  we  found  we 
were  drifting  fast  on  to  Sand  Island,  and  were  obliged 
to  come  to  anchor  about  one  mile  and  a  half  from  Point 
Adams.  While  we  lay  here  the  Cadboro,  a  small  schoo- 
ner from  Vancouver,  bound  to  Vancouver's  Island  with 
furs,  passed  us,  but  finding  herself  approaching  too  near 
the  point  of  Sand  Island,  she  also  came  to  anchor.  The 
wind  breezing  up  a  little  more  fresh,  the  Chenamus  made 
another  attempt  to  get  across  to  Baker's  Bay,  but  faihng, 
again  came  to  anchor,  and  found  herself  worse  situated 
than  before.  The  wind  was  fair,  but  the  tide  bore  us 
out  of  the  channel.  After  dinner  made  a  third  attempt 
to  get  to  the  usual  anchorage,  in  Baker's  Bay  ;  but  being 


HOMEWARD     VOAAGfi.  24t 

baffled  by  the  tide,  we  were  again  obliged  to  anchor  in 
a  very  exposed  position,  where  we  lay  during  the  night. 

The  evening  of  the  10th  was  exceedingly  pleasant, 
the  wind  in  the  north-west,  and  the  prospects  quite  fair 
for  getting  out  the  next  day. 

Tuesday,  9th.  The  tables  were  all  turned,  the  wind 
was  in  the  south-east,  with  the  prospect  of  a  gale,  the 
vessel  in  no  desirable  position,  but  the  captain  determined 
if  possible  to  get  into  the  bay.  Accordingly,  we  weighed 
anchor,  but  made  another  ineffectual  effort  to  gain  our 
moorings,  as  we  were  obliged  to  anchor  about  one  mile 
and  a  half  from  the  proper  ground.  After  waiting  a 
few  hours  for  the  tide  to  favor  us,  we  raised  anchor 
again,  and  after  tacking  about  two  or  three  times  be- 
tween Sand  Island  and  Chenook  Spit,  we  came  to  anchor 
only  one  half  mile  nearer  the  desired  haven. 

Wednesday,  10th.  In  the  afternoon  we  succeeded  in 
getting  down  into  the  bay,  and  anchoring  in  a  suitable 
place  to  take  the  breeze  from  the  north,  which  is  the 
only  wind  that  will  serve  us  in  crossing  the  bar  of  the 
Columbia,  and  for  which  we  made  up  our  minds  to  wait 
patiently,  remembering  that,  in  this  very  place  three 
years  before,  we  were  detained  by  adverse  gales  that 
lasted  as  long  as  the  storm  of  the  deluge. 

On  the  11th  and  12th  the  wind  was  south  and  west, 
which  forbade  our  leaving  the  bay,  consequently  we  had 
another  opportunity  of  climbing  to  the  top  of  Cape  Dis- 
appointment, and  surveying  the  surrounding  scenery. 
During  our  detention,  at  the  solicitation  of  Mrs.  H.,  we 
enjoyed  a  pic-nic  of  muscles,  which  we  found  here  in 
abundance,  with  bread,  butter,  and  tea. 

Saturday,  13th.  In  the  morning  a  fresh  breeze  sprung 
up  from  the  north,  and  it  was  evident  that  we  should 
bid  the  dark  mountains  of  Oregon  *'  Good  bye,"  before 
night.  On  shipboard,  all  was  bustle  and  anxiety,  and 
about  noon  the  command  of  the  captain  was  to  "  Heave 
short."  Accordingly,  the  windlass  was  manned,  the 
passengers  assisting,  and  quickly  the  chain  cable  was 
shortened,  so  that  the  brig  was  directly  over  the  anchor. 
We  waited  a  few  minutes  longer  for  the  proper  state  of 


248  HOflLEWAKD    VOYAGE. 

the  tide,  which  is  half-ebb,  and  then,  at  about  one  o'clock, 
the  bows  of  the  brig,  yielding  to  the  already  freshened 
breeze,  turned  towards  the  dreaded  bar,  and  the  roUing 
deep.  The  schooner  Cadboro'  took  the  lead,  and  though 
the  bar  was  exceedingly  rough,  and  the  mountain  swells 
broke  near  us  as  we  passed  through  the  contracted 
channel,  yet  the  wind  was  fresh  and  fair,  and  we  soon 
found  ourselves  entirely  free  from  all  the  sand-bars  of 
the  Columbia,  and  before  a  seven  knot  breeze,  passing 
beautifully  on  our  course  over  the  deep  dark  waves  of 
the  Pacific  Ocean. 

Tuesday,  10th.  This  is  the  third  day  since  w^e  crossed 
the  Columbia  bar,  and  as  we  have  been  constantly  fa- 
vored with  a  fair  wind,  we  have  made  fine  progress  on 
our  voyage.  Five  gentlemen  are  our  fellow  passengers, 
whose  names  are.  Wave,  Devenport,  Teck,  a  Prussian 
naturalist,  Stewart,  and  T.  J.  Hubbard.  The  last  came 
to  Oregon  with  Captain  Wyeth  and  Rev.  Jason  Lee  in 
1835,  and  having  resided  in  Oregon  since  that  time,  is 
well  acquainted  with  the  history  of  the  country.  He 
was  himself  connected  with  a  tragical  occurrence,  the 
like  of  which  is  quite  too  common  in  an  Indian  country. 
The  cause  of  the  dil^culty  was  an  Indian  woman,  whom 
Hubbard  had  taken,  and  was  living  with  as  his  wife. 
Previously,  she  had  looked  with  favor  upon  another 
man  by  the  name  of  Thornburgh,  and  the  latter  resolved 
to  take  her  away  from  Hubbard,  even  at  the  expense 
of  his  life.  For  this  purpose  he  entered  Hubbard's 
cabin  in  the  dead  of  the  night,  with  a  loaded  rifle,  but 
Hubbard,  having  knowledge  of  his  design,  had  armed 
himself  with  loaded  pistols,  and  discharging  one  at 
Thornburgh  as  he  entered  the  door,  the  ball  took  effect 
in  the  breast  of  the  latter,  and  he  fell,  and  expired.  A 
self-constituted  jury  of  inquest,  after  a  thoi'ough  exam- 
ination of  the  case,  brought  in  a  verdict  of  "Justifiable 
homicide." 

The  manner  in  which  Hubbard  and  the  rest  of  our 
fellow  passengers  spend  ther  time  on  the  voyage  indi- 
cates that  they  have  neitheir  become  wise  nor  virtuous 
from  the  history  of  the  past.     They  seem  incapable  of 


HOMKWARD    VOYAGE.  249 

interesting  themselves,  save  at  backgammon  or  the  card 
table,  nearly  all  the  time  not  consumed  in  eating  or 
sleeping  being  employed  at  one  or  the  other  of  the  two 
games. 

"Wednesday,  ITth.  Ware  and  Devenport  v^ere  suffer- 
ing exceedingly  from  s&asickness,  and  proposed  to  give 
the  captain  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  to  set  them  off 
on  the  shore  of  California  ;  but  as  a  matter  of  course, 
this  was  inadmissible,  and  the  two  gentlemen  were 
doomed  to  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  one  sea  voyage.  But 
one  of  them  declared  that  he  had  rather  pack  a  mule 
across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  than  to  go  to  sea  ;  and 
that,  if  he  ever  sets  his  foot  on  terra firma  again,  he  will 
never  be  caught  on  another  vessel. 

In  the  evening  backgammon  and  seasickness  were 
both  forgotten  a  short  time  in  the  excitement  of  taking 
a  large  porpoise.  This  is  generally  considered  a  great 
treat  by  seamen,  especially  those  on  merchant  vessels. 
The  manner  of  taking  them  is  as  follows  :  a  rope  is 
passed  through  a  block  or  pulley,  which  is  fastened  to 
some  part  of  the  rigging  near  the  bow  of  the  vessel, 
one  end  of  which  is  tied  to  a  harpoon  prepared  with  a 
handle  six  or  eight  feet  long,  so  as  to  render  it  con- 
venient to  throw.  A  sailor  then  fixes  himself  on  the 
martingal  under  the  bowsprit,  while  a  few  others  at 
the  other  end  of  the  rope,  stand  by  to  haul  in.  The 
reason  for  their  taking  their  position  at  the  forward  end 
of  the  vessel  is  this  ;  the  porpoise  always  plays  around 
the  bow  more  than  any  other  part,  and  the  rigging  under 
the  bowsprit  will  admit  of  a  sailor's  fixing  himself 
directly  over  the  porpoise  in  his  frequent  approaches  to 
this  point.  When  thus  prepared,  and  the  porpoises 
hover  around  the  bow,  the  harpoon  is  cast  with  great 
force  and  precision  into  the  selected  victim,  and  instantly 
the  water  is  crimsoned  with  his  blood.  When  the 
"  throw "  has  been  a  sure  one,  the  word  *'  haul "  is 
given,  and  the  fish,  or  animal,  is  immediately  raised 
above  the  water,  and  brought  upon  deck.  The  taking 
of   a  porpoise   is  one   oi   those  exciting  eVents  "which 

11 


$60  HOMEWARD    VaVAGE* 

occasionally  break  in  upon  the  monotony  of  life  at  sea. 
It  was  judged  that  the  one  we  took  would  weigh  two 
hundred  and  fifty  pounds.  It  afforded  several  gallons 
of  oil,  and  meat  enough  to  last  the  sailors  for  a  number 
of  days. 

Thursday,  25th,  Thus  far  on  our  voyage  we  have 
had  the  most  beautiful  w^eather^  there  having  been  no 
head  wind  to  speak  of,  and  but  about  four  hours  calm. 
We  have  generally  been  favored  with  a  gentle  breeze 
from  the  north-west^  which  has  wafted  us  on  our  direct 
course  to  Oahu  at  the  rate  of  five  and  six  knots  an  hour. 
This  has  been  exceedingly  favorable  to  us  on  account  of 
the  w^eakness  of  our  crew,  six  of  the  men  having  run 
away  from  the  brig  in  Oregon,  and  could  not  be  recov- 
ered, leaving  but  three  efficient  men  on  board  of  her^ 
beside  her  three  officers.  But  the  Lord  knoweth  how 
*Uo  temper  (or  regulate)  the  winds  to  the  shorn  lamb." 

We  are  cheered  with  the  prospect  of  a  speedy  pas- 
sage to  the  islands,  as  we  seem  to  have  secured  the 
north-east  trades  ;  but  of  this  there  is  no  certainty,  as 
the  trades  are  not  very  regular,  and  at  sea  above  all 
other  places,  ''  we  know  not  what  a  day  may  bring 
forth." 

Monday,  29th.  We  were  interested  in  the  discovery 
of  a  sail  on  our  starboard  bow,  which  appeared  to  be 
steering  the  same  course  with  us.  She  was  a  bai'que, 
probably  a  whaler  from  the  northern  ocean,  bound  to 
the  Sandw^ich  Islands,  and  thence  home.  Incidents  of 
interest  on  this  voyage  thus  far  have  been  exceedingly 
scarce,  a  very  great  uniformity  having  characterized  the 
days  we  have  been  at  sea.  However,  the  monsters  of 
the  deep,  whales,  sharks,  &c.,  have  from  time  to  time 
attracted  our  notice,  while  the  dark  albatros,  mother 
Carey's  chickens,  a  small  sea  gull,  and  the  boatswain's 
mate  marlinspike,  or  man  of  war  bird,  as  he  is  indiffer- 
ently called,  are  all  of  the  feathered  tribe  we  have  seen. 
The  last  mentioned  is  a  very  interesting  bird,  snow 
white,  and  appears  very  beautiful  as  it  flits  around  the 
vessel  on  its  wings  of  light,  as  if  desiring  to  find  a  place 


HOMEWARD    VOYAGE.  251 

of  rest  among  the  moving  spars.  It  is  principally  found 
between  the  tropics,  and  must  therefore  be  considered  a 
lover  of  warm  weather. 

On  the  30th  crossed  the  Tropic  of  Cancer,  and  as  the 
wind  was  very  light,  we  found  the  heat  quite  oppressive. 
By  a  very  good  observation  on  the  1st  of  October,  we 
found  our  latitude  to  be  twenty-two  degrees  forty-four 
minutes,  longitude  one  hundred  and  fifty-three  degrees, 
fifty  minutes  ;  twenty  four  hour's  sail  from  Oahu  before 
a  seven  knot  breeze.  The  captain  walks  the  deck 
whisthng  for  a  breeze,  and  in  the  evening,  behold  it 
comes,  and  the  sailing  is  delightful.  Those  who  have 
been  sick  are  getting  well,  and  all  unite  in  pronouncing 
the  voyage  thus  far,  as  it  regards  wind  and  weather,  an 
unusuallv  pleasant  one. 

Thursday,  14th  of  October.  The  trades  have  fresh- 
ened up  to*^a  strong  breeze,  and  all  were  delighted  with 
the  prospect  of  seeing  land  before  night.  Borne  onward 
prosperously,  according  to  expectation,  at  four  o'clock, 
the  tops  of  *the  mountains  of  the  island  of  Mowi,  tower- 
ing above  the  clouds,  burst  upon  our  view.  At  sundown 
Morotoi,  could  also  be  seen,  but  both  soon  disappeared 
amidst  the  darkness  of  night.  We  continued  our  course 
until  four  o'clock  in  the  morning,  when  we  could  dis- 
tinctly see  the  land  but  a  few  miles  distant,  and  not 
knowing  whether  we  were  exactly  right  in  our  calcula- 
tions, we  lay  to  for  the  light  of  day  to  discover  unto  us 
precisely  our  condition.  At  six  o'clock,  a.  m.,  we  found 
ourselves  about  six  miles  from  Morotoi,  with  Oahu  on 
our  starboard  bow,  about  thirty  miles  dist-ant.  Soon 
after  sunrise  a  sail  appeared  on  our  stern,  and  evidently 
neared  us  very  fast,  while  two  other  sail  appeared  on 
our  bow,  and  seemed  to  be  steering  directly  towards  the 
harbor.  While  we  were  passing  around  Diamond  Head, 
and  the  harbor  and  shipping,  with  the  town  of  Honolulu, 
were  breaking  upon  our  view,  the  vessel  which  had 
been  coming  up  on  our  stern,  passed  us  so  near  that  our 
yard  arms  were  but  a  few  feet  from  hers.  She  proved 
to  be  her  Britanic  Majesty's  Brig  Frolic  of  sixteen  guns. 
Her  commanding  officer  hailed  u§  as  she  passed,  and 


252  HOMEWARD    VOYAGE. 

inquired  if  we  had  seen  the  British  Irrigate  America  on 
our  way  down.  We  answered  no.  He  replied  that 
she  left  England  with  the  design  of  visiting  Oregon. 
The  brig  was  a  beautiful  craft,  but  probably  would  not 
consider  it  much  of  a  "  Frolic "  to  take  a  turn-a-bout 
with  an  American  ''  Wasp." 

The  patriotic  American  very  naturally  calls  to  mind 
under  such  circumstances  the  triumph  of  the  ''  Wasp " 
over  the  "  Frolic  "  in  the  last  war,  and  is  led  to  wonder 
why  a  "  Wasp  "  has  not  been  continued  in  the  American 
Navy. 

As  we  drew  near  the  shipping  in  the  outer  harbor  we 
discovered  a  number  of  men  of  war,  one  of  which  was 
the  British  line  of  battle  ship  the  Collingwood,  Lord  Sey- 
mour, Admiral,  with  which  the  Frolic  passed  a  number 
of  signals,  and  approaching  her,  gave  her  a  salute  of 
sixteen  guns,  which  was  returned  by  the  Admiral. 

It  was  an  exciting  time  on  board  of  our  little  brig  as 
we  so  suddenly  emerged  from  the  solitudes  of  the  ocean 
into  such  interesting  and  noisy  scenes. 

As  a  number  of  vessels  were  before  us,  it  was  neces- 
sary for  us  to  come  to  anchor  in  the  roads,  soon  after 
which  we  were  boarded  by  the  pilot,  with  whom  the 
Captain  went  directly  to  the  shore,  promising  to  send  off 
a  boat  to  take  the  passengers  ashore  before  night.  This 
he  accordingly  did,  and  at  sundown  we  landed  on  the 
wharf  near  the  American  Consulate,  where  we  found 
servants  waiting  with  a  small  hand  wagon  to  convey 
Mrs.  H.  and  the  children  to  the  house  of  Mr.  Rogers, 
one  of  the  Presbyterian  missionaries,  where  we  were 
kindly  invited  to  take  up  our  lodgings  for  a  day  or  two, 
or  until  we  could  make  other  provisions. 

This  is  the  third  time  I  have  visited  the  Sandwich 
Islands  during  the  last  six  years,  and  having  mingled 
several  months  with  both  foreigners  and  natives,  I  have 
had  an  opportunity  of  making  observations  of  no  very 
superficial  character;  and  as  the  result,  I  am  compelled 
to  entertain  the  opinion  that  the  public  generally,  and 
particularly  the  christian  world,  entertain  very  erroneous 
views  in  relation  to  the  true  condition  of  the  aborigines  of 


HOMEWARD    VOYAGE.  253 

these  islands.  Great  changes  have  indeed  been  effected, 
and  vast  improvements  made  among  the  Hawaiians 
through  the  instrumentaUty  of  missionary  labor,  yet, 
after  all,  the  amount  of  real  good  accomplished,  I  fear, 
is  not  so  great  as  the  christian  world  has  been  led  to 
believe.  Religion,  in  every  department  of  Hawaiian 
society,  however  genuine  the  system  which  is  taught  them 
may  be,  is  of  a  very  superficial  character.  Of  this  the 
missionary  residing  among  them,  is  more  sensible  than 
any  other  man  can  be,  and  one  of  them,  in  answer  to 
the  inquiry,  "  how  many  of  your  people  give  daily  evi- 
dence of  being  christians  f  replied  ''  none,  if  you  look 
for  the  same  evidence  which  you  expect  will  be  exhibited 
by  christians  at  home."  Indeed,  it  is  a  source  of  the 
greatest  affliction  with  the  missionaries,  that  all  their 
efforts  are  ineffectual  in  eradicating  that  looseness  of 
morals,  which  attaches  itself  so  adhesively  to  the  Ha- 
waiian character,  and  which  is  every  where  exhibiting 
itself  in  the  gambling,  thievish,  and  adulterous  habits  of 
the  people  of  all  classes,  from  the  hut  of  the  most  de- 
graded menial,  to  the  royal  palace. 

One  fact  will  show  the  astonishing  extent  to  which 
promiscuous  intercourse  prevails.  Relationship  is  always 
traced  from  the  mother,  and  not  from  the  father,  as  in 
all  civilized  countries,  and  indeed  it  is  not  an  easy  matter 
for  a  Hawaiian  to  tell  who  his  father  is. 

The  practice  of  promiscuous  assemblages  of  males 
and  females  in  the  streets  of  Honolulu,  is  as  common  as 
it  is  odious  and  demoralizing.  Crowds  of  this  descrip- 
tion may  be  seen  at  all  times  of  day  and  night,  where 
conduct  may  be  witnessed,  and  conversation  heard,  of 
the  most  reprehensible  character. 

In  attending  the  native  churches  one  is  struck  with  the 
Hstlesness  and  inattention  which  prevail  in  the  congrega- 
tion. No  matter  how  important  the  truths,  or  how 
impressive  the  manner  of  the  speaker,  he  seems  scarcely 
to  gain  the  hearmg  of  the  ear;  and  seldom  do  the  wor- 
shippers give  any  satisfactory  evidence  that  they  feel 
any  of  the  soul  hallowing  influences  resulting  from  an 
evangeUcal  waiting  before  God.     The  Islanders  are  far 


254  HOMEWARD    VOYAGE. 

behind  the  Indians  of  Oregon  in  paying  attention  to  the 
preaching  of  the  gospel.  If  once  you  can  get  an  Indian 
to  consent  to  hear  you,  you  are  sure  of  his  attention  till 
your  speech  is  closed.  But  as  to  the  effect  produced, 
there  is  Httle  to  boast  of  in  either  case. 

There  are  the  same  cold  and  callous  nature,  the  same 
unaccountable  stupidity  and  brutal  insensibihty  to  contend 
with,  in  both,  and  these  array  themselves  against  all  the 
efforts  made  to  overcome  them,  with  disheartening  effect. 
Notwithstanding  these  things,  which  the  faithful  chron- 
icler of  facts  cannot  pass  over  without  mentioning,  there 
are,  on  the  other  hand,  evidences  sufficient  to  estabhsh 
the  vast  importance  and  utiUty  of  the  missionary  cause. 
For  a  particular  account  of  the  islands  and  of  the  mis- 
sion, the  reader  is  referred  to  the  notes  of  a  former  visit. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Voy&gc  to  China  —  Change  of  calculations  —  Embark  on  board  the  Leland  —  Acci- 
dent—  Departure  —  Cabin  associates  —  The  Captain  —  Rules  to  judge  of  charac- 
ter —  The  Island  of  Grigan  —  The  Ladrones  —  Dangerous  reefs  —  Gale  —  Bashu 
islands  —  Spanish  Possessions  in  the  Pacific  —  Formosa  —  Chinese  Sea  —  Ship 
Montreal  —  Ty  phongs  —  The  contending  Pilots  —  Appearance  of  the  coast  of 
China —  Arrival  at  Hong  Kong  —  Reception  of  Keying  —  Review  of  the  British 
troops  —  Sabbath  disregarded  —  The  Rev.  Charles  GutslafF  —  Island  of  Hong 
Kong  —  City  of  Victoria  —  Population  —  Schools  —  Morrison  Education  Society  — 
Morrison  Hill  —  Success  of  the  School  —  Rev.  S.  R.  Brown  —  Churches  —  Mis- 
sions —  Where  established  -  Missionaries  -^  Climate  of  Hong  Kong  —  Soldiers^ 
Burying  Ground  —  Wesleyan  Methodists  —  Short  voyage  —  City  of  Macao  — 
■Grand  Prior  —  Bazaar  —  Temple  —  Camoen's  Cave  —  Voyage  to  Canton  —  De- 
scription of  the  "  Provincial  City  "  —  Adventures  in  the  city  —  Temple  of 
Honan  —  Dr.  Parker  —  Dr.  Devan  —  Proclamation  of  Keying  —  Counter  Pro- 
clamation —  Flower  Garden  —  Dr.  Bridgeman  —  Great  excitement  —  Danger  (rf 
an  outbreak  —  Thrust  out  of  the  city  —  Night  excursion  —  On  board  the  Leland  — 
Things  that  strike  the  foreigner  —  Boat  population  —  Pira'es- 

Friday,  October  10th.  I  was  informed  by  Captain 
Sylvester  that  the  Chenamus,  in  which  we  expected  to 
take  passage  to  the  United  States,  would  not  be  ready 
to  sail  under  two  or  three  months,  and  there  being 
several  vessels  ready  to  sail  for  the  States  by  the  way 
of  China,  1  resolved,  if  possible,  to  obtain  a  passage  in 
one  of  them.  Applying  to  Mr.  Finlay,  the  supercargo 
■of  the  ship  Leland,  which  had  just  arrived  at  Honolulu 
from  Callao,  and  was  designing  in  a  day  or  two  to  con- 
tinue her  voyage  to  China,  and  thence  direct  to  New 
York,  I  was  at  first  informed  that  all  the  staterooms  but 
one  were  occupied,  and  there  being  four  of  us  he  could 
not  make  us  comfortable  in  that.  At  first  we  relinquished 
the  idea  of  sailing  in  that  ship,  but  ascertaining  that  a 
young  gentleman  had  taken  the  room  adjoining  the  spare 
one  who  expected  to  leave  the  vessel  at  Hong  Kong,  I 
concluded  that,  if  Mr.  Finley  would  allow  me  the  privi- 


256  VOYAGE    TO    CHINA. 

lege  of  sleeping  on  the  sofa  or  floor  of  the  cabin,  Mrs. 
H.  and  the  two  girls  could,  for  the  short  space  of  thirty 
days,  get  along  with  the  one  room,  and  after  that,  the 
disembarkation  of  the  young  gentleman  would  give  us 
the  privilege  of  occupancy  of  both.  This  I  suggested 
to  Mr.  Finlay,  and  readily  obtained  a  proposal  from  him 
to  take  us  to  New  York  by  the  way  of  Canton  for  eight 
hundred  dollars.  As  it  would  have  cost  me  one  hundred 
dollars  per  month  to  have  remained  at  the  islands,  and 
five  hundred  and  twenty  for  passage  on  the  Chenamus,  I 
concluded  that  the  expense  of  the  latter  course  would  be 
nearly,  if  not  quite,  equal  to  the  passage  by  the  way  of 
China.  This,  connected  with  other  reasons  which  in- 
volve the  character  of  the  Chenamus,  both  as  it  regards 
ner  accommodations,  and  the  morals  which  prevailed  on 
board,  had  the  influence  to  bring  me  to  the  conclusion 
to  accept  of  the  proposal  of  Mr.  Finlay,  and  return  to 
my  native  land  by  the  way  of  the  Celestial  Empire. 

Accordingly,  on  Wednesday,  the  15th  of  October,  at 
two  o'clock,  p.  M.,  we  embarked  on  board  the  Leland, 
and  as  the  wind  was  fair,  had  a  prospect  of  going  to  sea 
before  night. 

Twenty-two  vessels  had  been  waiting  for  the  southern 
gales  to  subside,  and  the  northern  breeze  to  come  to 
enable  them  to  put  to  sea,  and  by  good  luck  ours  was 
the  fourth  on  the  pilot's  list.  A  little  accident  came  well 
nigh  detaining  us  in  the  harbor  over  night.  As  our  anchor 
was  raised  our  vessel  was  driven  by  the  strong  trade  wind 
directly  down  to  another  ship,  stern  first,  doing  but 
little  damage  however,  but  rendering  it  necessary  for  us 
to  warp  up  against  the  wind  for  some  distance,  before 
we  could  get  clear  of  the  ships  that  lay  in  our  track. 
Extricating  ourselves  from  this  difliculty,  just  as  the 
sable  curtains  of  the  evening  began  to  render  it  difficult 
for  us  to  discern  the  outlines  of  the  interesting  island  of 
Oahu,  our  pilot,  Captain  Penhollow,  who  had  conducted 
us  out  of  the  inner  harbor  through  the  narrow  winding 
channel  that  opens  a  passage  through  the  coral  reef  with 
which  the  island  is  environed,  wishing  us  a  happy  and 
prosperous  voyage,   returned    towards   the   glimmering 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA.  257 

lights  of  the  city  of  Honolulu,  while  to  the  command, 
"  square  away  the  yards,"  our  ship's  prow  was  pointed 
to  the  westward,  and  before  the  silent  hour  of  twelve, 
the  fast  receding  island  had  disappeared  amidst  the  gloom 
of  surrounding  darkness.  On  leaving  this  delightful 
Oasis  of  the  ocean,  where  we  had  spent  so  many  hours 
of  unmingled  enjoyment,  we  could  but  feel  those  sensa- 
tions which  moved  the  heart  of  the  poet  to  sing  as  he 
left  his  island  home, 

*'  Shades  of  evening  close  not  o'er  us, 

Leave  our  lonely  bark  awhile  ! 
Morn,  alas  !   will  not  restore  us 

Yonder  dim  and  distant  isle  ; 
Still  my  fancy  can  discover 

Sunny  spots  where  friends  may  dwell ; 
Darker  shadows  round  us  hover. 

Isle  of  beauty.  Fare  thee  well  !" 

A  gale  had  long  been  blowing  from  the  south,  and 
consequently  the  sea  was  very  high,  and  for  two  or 
three  of  the  first  days  the  passengers  were  nearly  all 
confined  to  their  births  with  sea  sickness,  but  the  20th 
found  us  on  a  comparatively  smooth  sea,  gliding  along 
before  a  gentle  breeze  from  the  north-east,  in  the  enjoy- 
ment of  health,  and  consequently  qualified  to  take  obser- 
vations in  regard  to  the  ship,  officers,  crew  and  passen- 
gers, with  whom  we  were  to  be  so  intimately  connected, 
and  with  the  interests  of  whom  our  own  were  to  be  so 
closely  blended,  during  a  voyage  encompassing  three- 
quarters  of  the  globe. 

Our  fellow  passengers  consisted  of  Rev.  A.  B.  Smith, 
wife,  and  three  orphan  children,  the  daughters  of  the 
late  Mr.  Lock,  of  Oahu,  Mrs.  Hooper,  the  wife  of  Wm. 
Hooper,  Esq.,  acting  Consul  at  Oahu,  two  children,  and 
Mr.  Sheliber,  the  young  gentleman  mentioned  above. 
Besides  these,  Mr.  Finlay,  the  supercargo,  occupied  a 
state  room  in  the  cabin,  and  this  constituted  our  cabin 
society,  as  the  Captain  stopped  principally  in  the  round 
house,  on  deck.  Our  first  impressions  regarding  our 
associates  in  the  cabin,  were  quite  favorable,  but  the 
Captain  we  found  to  be  a  surly  jack  tar,  well  acquainted 


£58  VOYAGE    TO    CHINA. 

with  Biliingsgats  vocabulary,  and  ready  to  draw  upon  its 
resources  on  all  occasions.  Indeed,  it  appeared  from 
the  amazing  facihty  with  which  he  could  call  to  his  aid 
the  most  vulgar  kind  of  swearing,  that  he  must  have 
taken  his  regular  gradations  in  the  high  school  of  his 
Satanic  majesty  himself.  Mr.  Finlay,  who  had  control 
of  the  business  of  the  vessel,  showed  at  the  outset,  a 
desire  to  render  his  passengers  comfortable,  in  the  abun- 
dant provisions,  consisting  of  vegetables,  pigs,  poultry, 
&c.,  with  which  he  caused  the  ship  to  be  supplied. 

As  the  Leland  was  built  in  packet  style,  we  found  the 
cabin  fine,  and  the  state-rooms  quite  commodious  ;  and 
after  a  few  days'  experience  we  were  obliged  to  admit 
that  the  table  of  the  Leland  was  better  furnished  than 
that  of  any  other  vessel  in  which  we  had  sailed. 

We  were  favored  with  gentle  breezes  from  the  north- 
east and  east  which  carried  us  along  from  five  to  seven 
knots  an  hour,  without  anything  in  particular  to  break 
the  monotony  of  the  voyage  until  the  6th  of  November, 
when  at  three,  p.  m.,  we  made  Grigan,  the  northernmost 
of  the  Ladrone  Islands.  The  appearance  of  this  island, 
as  we  passed  along  by  it  about  six  miles  off,  was  exceed- 
ingly interesting,  perhaps  more  so  to  us  in  consequence 
of  our  not  having  been  for  many  days  entertained  with 
the  sight  of  any  object  but  the  sky  over  our  heads,  the 
boundless  expanse  of  waters,  around  us,  and  the  little 
world  in  which  we  were  floating.  This  island  is  very 
high,  nearly  round,  and  rising  gradually  from  its  mar- 
gin, it  hides  its  summit  above  the  clouds.  It  appeared 
remarkably  green  as  if  covered  with  timber,  or  with 
other  vegetation  of  a  luxuriant  growth. 

The  island  was  visited  two  years  ago  by  Mr.  Dwight 
from  the  United  States,  and  some  twenty  or  thirty  per- 
sons, some  of  whom  were  white  men,  and  some  natives 
were  found  upon  it.  The  white  men  appeared  to  be  of 
the  sailor  class,  but  could  not  give  a  very  good  account 
of  themselves. 

The  Ladrone  Islands  are  numerous,  and  the  entire 
group  belongs  to  the  once  famous,  but  now  crumbhng 
kingdom  of  Spain.      The   two   southernmost   are   now 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA,  259 

principally  occupied  by  Spaniards,  and  are  used  by 
Spain  as  a  kind  of  Botany  Bay,  or  place  of  banishment 
for  state  prisoners.  Though  their  climate  is  delightful 
and  some  of  them  are  fine  fertile  islands,  yet  they  are 
of  but  little  consequence  to  the  world  ;  and  this  is 
doubtless  owing  to  the  weakness  and  indolence  of  their 
possessors.  Since  they  were  first  discovered  by  Magel- 
lanni,  1521,  they  have  been  inhabited  by  a  set  of  thieves 
and  pirates,  and  hence  they  are  called  "  Ladrone  (pirate) 
Islands." 

West  of  the  Ladrones  are  a  number  of  dangerous 
reefs,  which  have  been  seen  by  several  navigators  ;  and 
it  was  our  fortune  to  get  directly  among  them.  How- 
ever, Providence  smiled  upon  us,  and  we  passed  them 
all  in  safety,  though  while  exposed  to  them,  we  were 
visited  by  a  tremendous  gale  from  the  south,  which  not 
only  prostrated  us  with  seasickness,  but  threatened  to 
drive  us  into  the  caverns  of  the  deep.  The  waves 
rolled  in  mountains,  and  dashing  around  us  in  frightful 
pyramids,  and  commingling  their  deafening  roar  with 
the  howling  of  the  fitful  blasts,  struck  terror  into  the 
brave  hearts  of  the  sons  of  the  ocean,  and  admonished 
all  to  fear  and  tremble  before  Him  who  rideth  upon  the 
wings  of  the  wind.  After  four  days  of  incessant  gales 
from  every  point  of  compass,  the  wind  subsided,  a  calm 
succeeded,  a  breeze  followed  from  the  north  and  brought 
with  it  the  blessings  of  health  to  the  sick,  and  prosperity 
on  our  voyage. 

On  the  14th  of  November  the  appearance  of  strange 
birds,  and  now  and  then  an  object  floating  upon  the  sur- 
face of  the  water,  gave  signs  that  we  were  approaching 
land.  On  the  evening  of  the  15th,  we  passed  through 
between  the  north  Bashee  Islands,  and  the  Tobal, 
Tobago,  and  Hima.  The  Bashee  Islands  all  belong  to 
Spain.  Many  of  them  are  thickly  settled,  and  are  said 
to  be  very  fertile.  All  the  Spanish  islands  in  this  part 
of  the  Pacific  Ocean  are  governed  by  a  captain  general, 
whose  residence  is  at  Manilla,  on  the  island  of  Luconia.  ^ 
His  government  is  exceedingly  despotic,  and  he  is  only 
responsible  to  the  ministry  in  Spain. 


260  VOYAGE    TO    CHINA. 

Luconia,  or  Luzon,  as  it  is  laid  down  on  some  maps, 
is  said  to  be  a  splendid  island,  vieing  in  natural  resources 
with  the  far  famed  island  of  Java;  but  from  the  despotic 
nature  of  its  government,  and  the  indolence  and  jealousy 
of  the  Spaniards,  it  is  of  but  little  consequence  to  the 
crown  of  Spain. 

On  Sunday  morning,  the  16th,  the  island  of  Formosa 
was  descried  from  the  quarter  deck.  This  island,  with 
the  Bashees  and  Luconia,  form  a  chain  which  separates 
the  Chinese  Sea  from  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Formosa  was 
the  first  land  we  saw  over  which  the  Emperor  of  China 
sways  his  sceptre.  It  is  a  large  island,  with  many  fer- 
tile valleys,  but  the  highlands  from  our  vessel  appeared 
exceedingly  barren.  It  contains  a  number  of  large 
cities,  and  the  population  is  exceedingly  numerous. 
There  is  no  direct  business  carried  on  betwixt  them  and 
foreigners,  as  this  is  a  part  of  the  Celestial  Empire 
which  barbarians  are  not  allowed  to  visit. 

On  the  day  before  we  entered  upon  the  Chinese  Sea, 
it  was  exceedingly  dark  and  gloomy,  but  w^e  had  no 
sooner  passed  the  islands  above  mentioned,  than  the 
clouds  disappeared,  the  sun  arose  in  indescribable  splen- 
dor, a  fresh  and  invigorating  breeze  sprang  up  from  the 
north,  and  we  were  wafted  most  delightfully  over  the 
sea  of  China,  at  the  rate  of  nine  miles  an  hour,  towards 
our  destination.  Early  in  the  morning  we  discovered 
a  vessel  fifteen  miles  astern  of  us,  and  at  evening  she 
passed  us  about  three  miles  to  the  leeward,  and  proved 
to  be  the  American  ship  Montreal,  which  left  the  harbor 
of  Honolulu  four  hours  before  us.  She  formerly  be- 
longed to  a  line  of  London  packets,  is  reputed  a  fast 
sailor,  and  should  have  beaten  us  at  least  six  days  to 
China. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th,  the  water  changed  from 
a  deep  blue  to  a  light  green,  w4iich  indicated  that  we 
were  already  on  soundings,  though  two  hundred  and 
sixty  miles  from  port. 

The  Chinese  Sea  is  regarded  as  the  most  dangerous 
waters  to  navigate  in  this  part  of  the  world,  owing  to 
the   numfjrous   shoals  and  currents,   and   to   the  winds 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA  261 

called  *'  ty  phongs,"  which  prevail  in  this  region.  The 
name  rendered  into  EngHsh  is  literally  great-w^inds,  ty, 
signifying  great,  and  phong,  wind.  They  often  come 
without  giving  any  warning  of  their  approach,  and  woe 
to  the  luckless  vessel  on  which  their  fury  is  poured. 
Sails,  spars,  and  rigging  fly  in  fragments  before  the 
blast,  and  happy  is  that  ship  whose  dismasted  hull  still 
floats  upon  the  surface  of  the  agitated  deep  after  the 
storm  has  expended  its  violence.  Many  vessels,  with 
their  entire  crews,  have  foundered  in  these  storms,  and 
not  a  vestige  of  them  have  ever  been  seen  afterwards. 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th,  we  passed  the  rock  called 
"  Pedro  Branco,"  and  at  sunrise  Chinese  fishing  boats 
appeared  on  every  side,  and  the  rough  outlines  of  the 
coast  of  China  presented  themselves  before  us.  Pre- 
sently two  boats  bearing  the  pilot's  flag,  approached  us, 
and  an  amusing  strife  took  place  betwixt  them  to  see 
which  should  get  on  board  of  us  first.  They  both  came 
along  side  at  once,  and  the  two  pilots  sprung  on  to  the 
side  of  our  ship  at  the  same  time  ;  but  one  of  them  in 
his  eflfort  to  jump,  stumbled,  and  fell  into  the  sea.  We 
were  passing  through  the  water  with  great  rapidity,  and 
the  unlucky  pilot,  struggling  in  the  water  for  Hfe,  and 
frightened  so  that  his  eyes  stood  out  of  his  head  like 
those  of  a  craw  fish,  shot  astern  of  us  with  the  velocity 
of  an  arrow.  But,  accustomed  to  such  adventures,  his 
comrades  in  the  boat  immediately  cast  off"  a  couple  of 
long  Bambo  sticks,  which  the  unfortunate  man  seized, 
and  with  the  assistance  of  them  kept  himself  above  the 
water.  A  few  hours  afterwards  he  was  picked  up  by  a 
small  boat  which  was  sent  out  for  his  relief 

On  approaching  the  coast,  fishing  and  other  boats  are 
seen  in  every  direction,  even  far  out  of  sight  of  land, 
and  one  is  impressed  with  the  idea  of  the  vast  popula- 
tion of  the  Chinese  Empire,  long  before  he  mingles  with 
the  countless  throngs  on  ^^  terra  firman  As  the  land, 
with  the  light  of  morning,  burst  upon  our  view,  there 
was  disclosed  a  succession  of  barren  mountains,  exceed- 
ingly irregular  in  their  outlines,  and  with  the  numerous 
islands  of  rocks  ;  and  the  bays  and  gulfs  which  abound 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA. 

along  the  shore,  present  the  most  formidable  barriers  to 
the  vast  interior.  The  striking  dissimilarity  of  this  coast 
to  all  others,  as  well  as  the  treacherous  and  piratical 
character  of  the  inhabitants,  may  explain  in  part  the 
reason  why  maritime  nations  have  been  so  tardy  in 
gaining  access  among  the  Chinese.  But  this  coast  is 
getting  now  to  be  well  understood.  Since  the  war  with 
England,  two  vessels  have  been  constantly  employed  in 
surveying  its  numerous  islands,  intricate  channels,  and 
deep  indentations. 

At  ten  o'clock,  a.  m.,  of  the  18th  of  November,  we 
rounded  the  west  point  of  the  island  of  Hong  Kong, 
and  came  to  anchor  in  the  beautiful  bay,  which  reflects, 
as  from  a  liquid  mirror,  the  flourishing  city  of  Victoria. 
We  were  immediately  invited  on  shore  by  the  Rev.  S. 
R.  Brown,  who  is  in  the  employment  of  the  Morrison 
Education  Society,  as  conductor  of  a  school  for  the 
benefit  of  Chinese  boys,  and  to  whom  we  had  letters  of 
introduction,  and  with  whom  we  spent  an  agreeable 
week.  On  the  following  Sabbath  evening  I  was  invited 
to  preach  in  a  chapel  recently  built,  and  known  as  the 
"Union  Chapel,"  though  it  is  principally  under  the  control 
of  the  missionaries  of  the  London  Missionary  Society. 
The  congregation  consisted  of  English  residents,  soldiers, 
Americans,  and  native  Chinese,  and  numbered  about  one 
hundred  persons. 

We  arrived  at  Hong  Kong  just  in  time  to  witness  the 
arrival  and  subsequent  public  entertainments  of  the  cel- 
ebrated Chinese  statesman.  Keying,  who  is  the  governor 
general  of  the  province  of  Canton,  and  imperial  com- 
missioner to  transact  the  business  of  the  government 
relating  to  the  intercourse  of  China  with  other  nations. 
His  visit  had  been  long  expected,  and  from  the  great 
popularity  of  the  statesman,  both  in  China  and  among 
the  British,  it  was  contemplated  with  a  great  degree  of 
interest.  Splendid  preparations  had  been  made  for  his 
reception,  and  to  render  his  visit  not  only  interesting  to 
himself,  but  conducive  to  the  extension  of  British  influ- 
ence in  China. 

He  was  conducted  from  Whampo  to  Hong  Kong  in  a 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA*  263 

British  steamboat,  and  recollecting  the  immense  destruc- 
tion of  Chinese  occasioned  by  a  similar  vessel  in  the  late 
war,  he  closely  examined  every  part  of  her  on  his  pas- 
sage down  ;  and  while  passing  around  among  the  men, 
he  scattered  his  gold  and  silver  with  the  most  princely 
hberality.  The  boat  arrived  before  the  town  of  Victo- 
ria on  Thursday  evening,  and  his  excellency  received  a 
salute  from  the  guns  of  the  batteries  and  from  the  ships 
of  war  in  the  harbor,  which  was  returned  after  the 
Chinese  custom.  His  excellency  landed  amidst  the 
roaring  of  cannon  and  the  strains  of  martial  music,  and 
was  conveyed  in  a  splendid  palanquin  to  the  house 
which  had  been  fitted  up  with  great  care,  for  his  recep- 
tion ;  and  where,  during  the  remainder  of  the  evening, 
all  the  public  functionaries  and  grandees  of  Hong  Kong 
paid  their  respects  to  their  illustrious  visitor. 

On  Friday  evening  Keying  and  his  suite.  Lord  Coch- 
ran, Lord  Seymour,  with  all  the  grandees  of  the  place, 
dined  at  the  house  of  Sir  John  Francis  Davies,  the 
governor  of  Hong  Kong,  and  from  the  representations 
of  an  eye  witness,  the  evening  wound  up  with  a  bac- 
chanalian revel.  Towards  the  close  of  the  following 
day,  a  review  of  the  British  troops  on  the  island,  was  to 
take  place,  and  Keying  was  to  appear  in  public,  and 
give  an  opportunity  for  those  to  see  him  who  were  not 
allowed  to  mingle  in  the  gay  saloons  of  lords,  knights, 
and  barons. 

They  were  not  disappointed  in  their  expectations  ;  for 
as  the  high  mountains  of  Hong  Kong  began  to  cast  a 
cooling  shade  upon  the  city  of  Victoria,  Keying  and  his 
suite  were  carried  in  sedan  chairs  to  the  house  of  Sir 
John  Francis  Davies,  and  soon  after  both  their  excellen- 
cies, with  their  attendants,  accompanied  by  the  Rev. 
Charles  Gutslaff,  as  Chinese  interpreter,  repaired  to  a 
high  bank  beside  the  road,  and  located  themselves  upon 
it  for  the  purpose  of  reviewing  the  troops  as  they  were 
marched  before  them.  We  had  the  good  fortune  to 
place  ourselves  within  a  few  feet  of  the  bank,  where  we 
had  a  fine  view  of  this  titled  group,  as  also  of  the  sol- 
diers.    The  latter  consisted  of  two  regiments,  one  of 


264  VOYAGE    TO    CHINA. 

Irish,  and  one  of  Sepoys,  from  India,  numbering  about 
two  thousand  in  all.  They  were  marched  after  two 
splendid  bands  of  music,  and  from  the  strict  discipline 
manifest  in  their  manoeuvres,  as  well  as  from  the  won 
derful  display  of  gunnery  with  which  the  review  ter 
minated,  doubtless  Keying  was  impressed  with  a  sense 
of  the  superiority  of  the  tactics  of  British  soldiers  ovei 
those  of  his  imperial  master. 

At  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening  their  excellencies, 
with  their  suites,  the  officers  of  the  army,  and  others 
entitled  to  the  distinguished  privilege,  repaired  on  board 
the  line  of  battle  ship  Agincourt,  to  dine  with  the  admi- 
ral. Lord  Seymour.  Dinner,  as  usual  among  the  Eng- 
lish on  such  occasions,  was  followed  with  music  and 
dancing,  but  it  was  said  that  an  English  lady  refused  to 
dance  with  Keying,  which  so  chagrined  his  excellency 
that  it  was  thought  proper  to  break  up  the  party  at  an 
early  hour. 

On  the  Sabbath,  Gov.  Davies,  Keying,  and  their  suite, 
accompanied  by  the  Rev.  Charles  Gutslaff,  performed 
on  a  small  English  steamboat,  a  voyage  of  pleasure 
around  the  island  of  Hong  Kong.  Perhaps  Gov.  Davies 
was  influenced  thus  to  desecrate  the  Holy  Sabbath  by 
the  examples  set  him  by  some  of  the  lords  and  dukes  of 
England,  who  have  been  in  the  habit  of  using  the  Lord's 
day  for  their  public  dinners;  but,  be  this  as  it  may,  such 
a  course  of  conduct  by  the  authorities  of  a  colony  pro- 
fessedly Christian,  in  such  a  country  as  China,  is  not  only 
a  public  outrage  upon  Christianity  itself,  but  is  directly 
calculated  to  destroy  the  good  effects  of  years  of  mis- 
sionary labor.  While  the  servants  of  God  in  China  are 
endeavoring  to  impress  the  people  with  a  sense  of  the 
sacredness  of  the  Holy  Sabbath,  the  public  authorities, 
sanctioned  by  the  presence  of  Rev.  Charles  Gutslaff,  by 
thus  openly  desecrating  the  day,  do  much  to  nullify  all 
that  missionaries  can  possibly  do.  If  the  above  were 
a  solitary  instance  of  a  violation  of  the  day  in  this  public 
manner,  the  evil  influence  resulting  from  it,  would  per- 
haps soon  die  away.  But  the  Sabbath  is  scarcely  known 
in  Hong  Kong,  judging  from  external  appearances.     All 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA.  265 

ranks,  from  the  governor  downvi^ards,  habitually  profane 
the  holy  day;  while  the  public  w^orks,  such  as  the  erec- 
tion of  government  buildings  and  fortifications,  are  pros- 
ecuted on  the  Sabbath  the  same  as  on  other  days.  This 
is  a  source  of  great  grief  to  the  missionaries  in  this  part 
of  China,  and  may  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  greatest 
obstacles  in  the  way  of  success,  with  which  every  mis- 
sionary to  this  country  must  come  in  contact.  True, 
English  service,  in  a  most  sickly  manner,  is  performed 
twice  on  the  Sabbath,  but  there  are  but  few  who  attend 
regularly,  while  the  vast  majority  of  English  and  other 
foreigners  at  Hong  Kong,  use  the  Lord's  day  as  a  day 
of  business  or  recreation. 

December  10th.  Dined  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening 
with  the  Rev.  Charles  GutslafF,  who  is  now  a  resident 
of  Hong  Kong,  having  recently  received  an  appointment 
from  the  Colonial  Government  as  Chinese  Secretary. 
Perhaps  there  are  few  men  in  the  world  who  have 
excited  more  interest  in  a  missionary  point  of  view,  than 
this  reverend  gentleman.  He  is  a  Prussian  by  birth,  is 
about  fifty-five  years  of  age,  and  has  been  in  China  thirty 
years,  most  of  which  have  been  employed  in  missionary 
labors  in  various  parts  of  the  empire.  Though  he  has 
lost  much  of  his  influence  as  a  Christian  minister,  both 
among  the  natives  and  foreigners,  yet  he  is  laboring  to 
sustain  himself  as  a  missionary  in  the  country,  as  well 
as  a  civilian. 

He  informed  me  that  twenty-five  native  preachers 
who  belonged  to  a  society  which  he  had  organized  for 
the  propogation  of  the  gospel  in  China,  came  to  him  for 
counsel  and  direction  in  their  work;  and  that  they  were 
circulating  through  every  part  of  the  Chinese  Empire, 
and  were  preaching  from  ten  to  fifteen  sermons  each  per 
day.  After  the  death  of  John  Morrison,  Jr.,  who  filled 
the  office  of  Chinese  Secretary  for  a  few  years,  Gutslaff", 
from  his  thorough  knowledge  of  the  different  dialects  of 
the  Chinese  language,  was  appointed  to  this  lucrative 
station.  His  salary  is  £1500  sterling  per  annum,  con- 
siderably more  than  that  of  the  Vice  President  of  the 
United  States,  while  the  salary  of  the  Governor  of  the 


266  VOYAGE    TO    CHlNAc 

little  petty  colony  of  Hong  Kong,  amounts  to  three 
times  as  much  as  that  of  the  President  of  our  Union. 
Gutslaff  appears  to  have  made  it  one  object  of  his  resi- 
dence in  China,  to  accumulate  wealth,  and  it  is  said  that 
his  efforts  in  this  respect,  have  been  successful.  Report 
affirms  that  he  has  £15,000  deposited  in  the  bank  of 
Australia  which  he  has  accumulated  while  employed  as 
a  missionary,  and  probably  some  of  the  prejudice  exis- 
ting against  him,  arises  from  this  circumstance,  but  it 
would  be  doing  him  great  injustice  not  to  admit  that  his 
unwearied  labors  for  the  benefit  of  China  have  been 
productive  of  good.  In  addition  to  his  other  labors  he 
has  recently  published  a  Chinese  Dictionary,  which,  with 
those  previously  published,  will  afford  missionaries  great 
facilities  for  the  acquisition  of  the  language.  To  form  a 
correct  estimate  of  this  original  character  doubtless 
requires  a  most  intimate  acquaintance,  while  a  short 
interview  with  him  cannot  fail  to  leave  the  impression 
upon  the  mind  of  the  stranger,  that  the  most  singular 
compound  of  the  gentleman  and  the  clown,  the  divine 
and  the  civihan,  the  scholar  and  the  novice,  the  sage  and 
the  humorist,  the  christian  and  the  worldling,  enters  into, 
and  forms  the  character  of  the  Rev.  Charles  Gutslaff. 

The  island  of  Hong  Kong,  as  the  fruits  of  an  unjust 
war,  was  ceded  by  China  to  Great  Britain  at  the  close 
of  the  late  unhappy  contest,  and  now  constitutes  a  part 
of  that  empire  upon  which  it  has  become  the  boast  of 
her  statesmen  that  the  sun  never  sets.  It  is  very  irre- 
gular in  its  outlines,  both  as  it  regards  its  coast  and 
its  surface.  It  is  not  far  from  eight  miles  long,  and 
varying  in  its  width  from  one  to  four  miles.  On  ap- 
proaching it  in  a  vessel,  it  presents  a  very  forbidding 
aspect.  It  rises  abruptly  from  the  water,  and  its  most 
elevated  points  are  about  three  thousand  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  Originally  it  was  one  huge  mountain 
of  granite,  but  for  many  ages  this  primitive  rock  has 
been  decomposing,  and  the  present  soil  of  the  island 
consists  of  decayed  granite,  with  a  small  portion  of 
decomposed  vegetable  matter.  There  are  several  val- 
lies  in  the  island  through  which  meander  small  brooks^ 


VOYAGE    to    CHINA.  2^1" 

and  being  green  and  fertile,  give  the  name  to  the  island; 
Hong  Kong  signifying  an  island  of  green  and  fertile 
vallies. 

The  city  of  Victoria,  embracing  both  the  Chinese  and 
English  portions,  stretches  along  the  eastern  side  of  the 
island  nearly  three  miles.  Its  gi'eatest  depth  is  not  more 
than  one-fourth  of  a  mile,  and  the  abruptness  of  the 
mountains  behind  the  city,  will  not  admit  of  extending 
the  buildings  far  in  that  direction.  Though  it  is  but 
about  five  years  since  the  city  was  commenced,  yet  it  has 
grown  up  so  rapidly,  and  contains  so  many  magnificent 
buildings,  that  one  of  the  learned  Chinese  Mandarins 
who  accompanied  Keying,  on  leaving  the  place,  com- 
posed a  poem  in  honor  of  the  city,  in  which  he  entitled 
it  "the  city  of  splendid  palaces."  The  city,  however, 
is  in  a  very  unfinished  state,  and  the  sound  of  the  ham- 
mer and  trowel  is  heard  in  every  part  of  it  during  seven 
days  in  a  week,  and  it  is  therefore  rapidly  improving; 
and  doubtless,  from  its  favorable  location,  and  by  the 
assistance  of  British  wealth  and  influence,  it  is  destined 
to  become  a  place  of  great  commercial  importance. 

The  population  of  Hong  Kong  amounts  to  about  thirty 
thousand  persons,  most  of  whom  are  Chinese.  There 
are  about  four  hundred  Enghsh  residents  on  the  island, 
besides  the  soldiers,  and  not  more  than  ten  Americans. 
These,  with  the  regiment  of  Irish  soldiers  already  re- 
ferred to,  constitute  all  the  white  people  embraced  in 
this  colony.  The  Chinese  population,  numbering  more 
than  twenty-five  thousand,  are  exceedingly  industrious 
in  their  habits,  and  accomplish  a  great  share  of  the  re- 
taihng  business  of  the  city.  In  consequence  of  the 
unhealthiness  of  the  climate  the  English  residents  have 
fixed  themselves  here  but  temporarily,  and  design,  after 
having  amassed  a  fortune,  to  return  to  old  England  to 
enjoy  the  fruits  of  their  labors.  Many  of  them,  how- 
ever, fall  victims  to  the  malignant  fevers  which  here 
prevail,  and  their  dreams  of  worldly  aggrandizement 
vanish  with  their  lives. 

The  schools  of  Hong  Kong  require  to  be  noticed. 
Here   are   no   public   schools   for   the   benefit   of  white 


268  VOYAGE    TO    CHINA* 

children,  consequently  they  are  growing  up,  as  in  other 
new  colonies,  in  comparative  ignorance.  The  school 
which  is  supported  by  the  Morrison  Education  Society 
is  one  of  great  importance  to  the  interests  of  China,  as 
the  influence  it  exerts  at  present,  and  the  objects  it  con- 
templates, sufficiently  prove.  The  circumstances  which 
led  to  the  formation  of  the  Morrison  Education  Society, 
was  the  death  of  the  Rev.  Robert  Morrison,  D.  D.,  who, 
in  connection  with  his  unwearied  labors  as  a  missionary, 
officiated  many  years  as  translator  in  the  service  of 
the  Hon.  East  India  Company  in  China.  The  friends  of 
this  great  and  good  man  in  China,  having  been  deeply 
interested  in  the  success  of  his  labors  while  living,  and 
wishing  to  cherish  a  grateful  remembrance  of  him  when 
dead,  resolved  to  erect  a  monument  worthy  to  perpetu- 
ate his  memory,  and  calculated  to  assist  in  carrying 
forward  that  work,  in  the  promotion  of  which  he  had 
fallen  a  sacrifice.  Dr.  Morrison  died  on  the  2d  of  Au- 
gust, 1834,  and  on  the  9th  of  November,  1836,  the  soci- 
ety which  took  his  name,  was  organized  at  Canton, 
having  a  fund  of  six  thousand  dollars. 

The  objects  of  the  society,  as  expressed  in  its  consti- 
tution, are,  "  to  improve  and  promote  education  in  China, 
by  schools  and  other  means."  Chinese  youth  were  to 
be  taught  to  read  and  write  the  English  language,  in 
connection  with  their  own;  and  by  these  means  the 
society  designed  ''  to  bring  within  their  reach  all  the 
instruction  requisite  for  their  becoming  wise,  industrious, 
sober  and  virtuous  members  of  society,  fitted  in  their 
respective  stations  in  life,  to  discharge  well  the  duties 
which  they  owe  to  themselves,  their  kindred,  and  their 
God."  The  trustees  of  the  society  designed  to  employ 
two  teachers,  one  from  England,  and  one  from  the  Uni- 
ted States,  and  made  application  accordingly.  From 
England  they  received  no  reply,  but  a  favorable  one 
from  the  States,  and  on  the  23d  of  February,  1839,  Rev. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Brown,  from  Massachusetts,  arrived  in 
China,  but  the  war  immediately  breaking  out,  rendered 
it  necessary  for  them  to  take  up  their  residence  at 
Macao.     Here,  by  the  advice  of  the  trustees,  Mr.  Brown 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA.  269 

commenced  operations^  but  the  Chinese  were  so  slow  in 
appreciating  the  effort,  that  in  September,  1841,  the 
school  numbered  but  thirteen  scholars. 

Catholic  influence,  and  Chinese  exclusiveness,  rendered 
Macao  almost  as  undesirable  a  location  for  the  school,  as 
Canton;  and  as  Hong  Kong  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of 
the  British,  application  was  made  to  Sir  Henry  Pottinger, 
her  British  Majesty's  plenipotentiary,  for  the  privilege 
of  locating  the  school  on  that  island. 

This  application  resulted  in  the  appropriation  of  a  hill 
which  overlooks  the  city  of  Victoria,  as  the  location  for 
the  buildings,  and  which  from  that  time  has  been  known 
as  '*  Morrison  Hill."  Extensive  buildings  were  immedi- 
ately erected,  the  number  of  the  pupils  increased,  an 
assistant  teacher  employed,  and  from  that  time  the 
school  has  been  progressing  in  every  way  correspondent 
to  the  expectations  of  its  warmest  friends.  At  present 
the  school  numbers  thirty  students,  all  boys,  and  many 
of  them  have  made  great  improvement.  A  circum- 
stance which  was  related  to  me  by  Mr.  Brown,  shows 
in  what  light  the  Chinese  first  viewed  the  school,  and 
the  influence  it  is  beginning  to  exert.  An  aged  Chinese, 
who  had  finally  consented  to  send  three  of  his  boys  to 
the  school,  observed  one  day  to  Mr.  Brown,  *'  we  could 
not  at  first  understand  why  a  foreigner  should  wish  to 
feed  and  instruct  our  children  for  nothing.  We  thought 
there  must  be  some  sinister  motive  at  the  bottom  of  it. 
Perhaps  it  was  to  entice  them  away  from  their  parents 
and  country,  and  transport  them  to  some  foreign  land. 
At  all  events,  it  was  a  mystery.  But  I  understand  it 
now.  I  have  had  my  three  sons  in  your  school  steadily 
since  they  entered  it,  and  no  harm  has  happened  to  them. 
The  oldest  has  been  quahfied  for  the  pubhc  service  as 
interpreter.  The  other  two  have  learned  nothing  bad. 
The  religion  you  have  taught  them,  and  of  which  I  was 
so  much  afraid,  has  made  them  better.  I  myself  believe 
its  truth,  though  the  customs  of  my  country  forbid  my 
embracing  it.  I  have  no  longer  any  fears — you  labor  for 
other's  good,  not  your  own." 

Preparations   have  recently  been  made  for  the   en- 


270  VOVAGfi    TO    CHINA.  » 

largement  of  the  school ;  as  many  more  had  applied  for 
admission  during  the  last  year,  than  could  possibly  be 
accommodated.  A  fortunate  appropriation  of  fourteen 
thousand  dollars  to  the  institution,  with  a  recent  sub- 
scription of  several  thousand  dollars  more,  will  enable 
the  trustees  suitably  to  enlarge  it,  and  to  place  it  upon  a 
firm  basis. 

The  above  appropriation  was  made  by  the  persons 
who  had  the  settlement  of  the  estate  of  the  lamented  J. 
R.  Morrison,  son  of  the  late  Dr.  Robert  Morrison. 

That  gentleman,  while  living,  was  deeply  interested 
in  the  welfare  of  the  school,  and  it  was  thought  proper, 
by  those  upon  whom  it  devolved  to  dispose  of  his  pro- 
perty, to  associate  his  name  with  that  of  his  father,  by 
bestowing  fourteen  thousand  dollars  of  his  estate  upon 
the  institution  as  a  permanent  fund,  and  thus  to  raise  a 
noble  monument  to  perpetuate  the  memory  of  both  of 
these  benefactors  of  the  Chinese  nation. 

The  conductor  of  this  school,  the  Rev.  S.  R.  Brown, 
is  every  way  entitled  to  the  confidence  of  the  community 
which  employs  him,  and  of  the  Chinese,  for  whose  ben- 
efit he  is  devoting  his  life.  His  interests  are  blended 
with  those  of  this  institution,  and  his  whole  soul  is  en- 
listed to  promote  its  advancement.  And,  in  the  rapid 
improvement  of  the  students  in  the  arts  and  sciences,  in 
the  correctness  of  their  moral  deportment,  and  in  the 
satisfactory  evidence  which  some  of  them  give  of  genu- 
ine conversion  and  a  qualification  for  future  usefulness, 
he  already  witnesses  the  happy  results  of  his  labors. 
As  this  institution  was  established  upon  a  broad  basis,  and 
is  conducted  according  to  the  most  enlarged  views  of 
benevolence,  its  supporters  and  directors  are  among  the 
benefactors  of  mankind. 

There  are  two  churches  in  Hong  Kong,  which  have 
been  erected  for  the  accommodation  of  foreigners  ;  one 
of  which  is  the  "  Union  Chapel,"  and  the  other  is  an 
Episcopalian  church.  In  the  former,  the  missionaries 
officiate  alternately,  and  the  latter  is  supplied  by  the 
chaplains  from  the  army  and  navy.  Some  of  these 
latter  divines,  after  spending  Saturday  evening  in  card 


•  VOYAGE    TO    CHLVA,  271 

playing  and  wine  drinking,  will  enter  the  sacred  desk  on 
Sunday,  and  preach,  not  as  messengers  of  God,  bat  as 
*'one  that  playeth  skillfully  on  an  instrument" — and 
their  hearers,  as  destitute  of  religion  as  themselves,  will 
flatter  their  vanity  by  informing  them  that  they  have 
preached  an  admirable  sermon.  A  few  of  these  chaplains, 
however,  are  evangelical  men,  and  when  they  preach, 
they  hesitate  not  ''  to  decalre  the  whole  counsel  of  God." 
It  fell  to  the  lot  of  one  of  these  to  preach  on  a  Sabbath 
when  a  number  of  the  great  men  of  the  island  were 
present ;  and  knowing  the  viciousness  of  their  charac- 
ters, hke  a  man  of  God  he  enforced  upon  them  the 
important  truth,  that,  ''without  hohness,  no  man  shall 
see  the  Lord."  At  the  close  of  his  sermon  he  was 
informed  by  the  general  of  the  army  that  his  "preach- 
ing was  not  acceptable  ;  that  they  came  to  church  to  be 
comforted,  not  to  be  condemned  to  hell." 

After  the  island  of  Hong  Kong  had  been  wrested 
from  the  Chinese  by  the  English,  the  missionaries  in 
this  part  of  China,  generally  collected  at  this  place. 
Formerly,  Macao  was  the  only  place  where  foreigners 
with  their  families  could  reside.  But  as  Macao  was 
under  papal  influence,  and  Canton  was  yet  inaccessible, 
Hong  Kong  was  judged  to  be  the  most  proper  place  for 
the  establishment  of  the  missions.  Accordingly,  mis- 
sionaries of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  and  also  of 
the  American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign 
Missions,  and  the  Baptist  Foreign  Board,  fixed  their 
residences  in  this  place.  They  built  their  dwelling 
houses,  churches,  and  school-houses  for  the  Chinese, 
with  the  design  of  constituting  this  place  the  center  of 
their  operations. 

Some  of  these  buildings  were  quite  expensive,  espe- 
cially the  mission  house  of  the  American  Board. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  war.  Hong  Hong  becoming 
English  ground,  and  Canton  accessible  to  missionaries 
and  their  families,  all  the  American  missionaries  resolved 
at  once  to  abandon  the  former,  and  establish  themselves 
in  the  latter  place.     This  subjected  them  to  a  great  pe- 


1272  VOYAGE    TO    CHINA.  * 

cuniary  loss  in  the  buildings  and  other  property,  which 
they  were  obliged  to  sacrifice  at  Hong  Kong.  But  they 
considered  it  to  be  their  duty  to  enter  the  opening  which 
British  cannon  had  made  into  China,  beheving  that  the 
advantages,  in  a  missionary  point  of  view,  of  a  location 
in  Canton,  would  more  than  counterbalance  all  the  pecu- 
niary losses  to  which  such  a  course  would  subject  them. 

Consequently,  Dr.  Bridgeman,  Dr.  Parker,  and  Dr. 
Ball,  of  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M.,  and  Dr.  Devan,  of  the 
Baptist  Board,  have  retired  from  Hong  Kong,  and  have 
taken  up  their  residence  in  the  Provincial  city.  Whether 
they  have  acted  wisely,  remains  to  be  decided  ;  but  be 
this  as  it  may,  the  three  or  four  Chinese  houses  of  wor- 
ship which  they  erected  at  Hong  Kong,  are  nearly 
deserted,  and  the  fruits  of  their  labors  are  rapidly 
disappearing. 

Dr.  Legg  and  Mr.  Gallaspie,  of  the  London  Mission- 
ary Society,  are  establishing  themselves  permanently  in 
Hong  Kong.  Dr.  Legg,  however,  is  now  on  a  visit  to 
England,  but  designs  to  return  and  resume  his  labors  in 
this  place.  They  have  recently  erected  a  large  and 
splendid  mission  house,  which  appears  from  a  distance 
more  hke  the  palace  of  a  prince,  than  the  house  of  the 
humble  missionary.  They  have  here  collected  a  school 
of  boys,  whom  they  are  endeavoring  to  instruct,  and, 
though  the  fruits  of  their  labors  are  tardy  in  exhibiting 
themselves,  yet,  by  various  means,  such  as  the  printing 
of  books  in  Chinese,  and  preaching  by  their  Chinese 
assistants,  they  are  casting  their  bread  upon  the  waters, 
and  are  expecting  to  be  able  to  gather  it  after  mayiy 
days. 

It  is  difficult  to  tell  what  amount  of  good  has  been 
accomplished  by  missionary  labor  in  Hong  Kong,  doubt- 
less much  more  than  the  enemies  of  missions  are  willing 
to  admit.  But  it  is  evident  the  work  at  this  point,  as  well 
as  in  some  other  portions  of  the  mission  field,  has  been 
greatly  injured  by  the  publication  of  reports  furnished 
by  missionaries  of  too  flaming  a  character.  Missionary 
reports  always  return  to  the  places  they  are  designed  to 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA.  273 

represent,  and  if  they  are  not  strictly  true,  they  always 
create  prejudice  against  the  cause  they  are  designed  to 
promote. 

The  .climate  of  Hong  Kong  is  very  unsalubrious, 
particularly  during  the  prevalence  of  the  south-west 
monsoons. 

The  monsoons  are  winds  which  blow  one-half  of  the 
year  from  the  south-west,  and  the  other  half  from  the 
north-east.  The  north-east  monsoon  prevails  during  our 
fall  *  and  winter  months,  and  while  it  continues,  the 
island  is  .(!bnsidered  a  comparatively  healthy  location  ; 
but  after  the  winds  set  in  from  the  south-west,  the 
atm.osphere  becomes  exceedingly  oppressive.  The  heat 
of  the  sun  becomes  almost  unendurable,  and  both  natives 
and  foreigners  enter  into  every  possible  precaution  to 
guard  against  the  deleterious  effects  of  the  sun's  burning 
rays. 

Notwithstanding  the  extreme  care  exercised  by  fo- 
reigners to  preserve  health,  this  cHmate  proves  fatal  to 
many  of  them.  It  is  pecuHarly  debilitating  to  the  female 
constitution,  and  a  number  of  the  wives  of  missionaries, 
have  here  fallen  as  martyrs  in  their  work.  The  Hong 
Kong  fever  has  become  notorious  wherever  the  name 
of  the  place  is  known  ;  and  while  all  who  come  to  this 
country  are  more  or  less  exposed  to  this  most  malignant 
of  all  fevers,  perhaps  the  soldiers  quartered  here  are  the 
greatest  sufferers.  Such  is  the  astonishing  mortality 
that  reigns  among  them,  that  it  is  necessary  to  reinforce 
them  annually  with  a  fresh  regiment  from  home,  in 
order  to  keep  ready  for  effective  service  one  thousand 
men.  Indeed,  in  view  of  the  unhealthiness  of  its  climate, 
Hong  Kong  is  no  desirable  place  of  residence  for 
foreigners,  and  there  are  but  two  motives  sufficiently 
powerful  to  induce  either  Europeans  or  Americans  to 
continue  here  a  great  length  of  time  :  These  are  the. 
love  of  money  and  the  love  of  souls. 

Having  heard  much  concerning  the  soldiers'  burying 

ground,   on   the   14th  of  December,  curiosity  led  us  to 

take  a  walk  over  this  depository  of  the  dead.     About 

one  milfe  arid  a  half  from   the  town,   the   old   barracks 

12 


274  VOYAGE    TO    CHINA. 

were  situated,  where  the  soldiers  were  quartered  imme- 
diately after  the  conclusion  of  the  China  war,  and 
during  the  unhoalthy  part  of  the  season. 

But  a  few  score  of  them  had  fallen  before  the  prowess 
of  their  Chinese  enemies,  but  while  quietly  lying  in  their 
barracks,  and  recounting  the  victories  they  had  won, 
they  were  attacked  by  an  enemy  before  whom  kings  turn 
pale,  and  the  valor  of  the  bravest  soldier  falters. 

The  Hong  Kong  fever  brought  death  into  the  war- 
riors' camp,  and  during  the  short  period  of  six  weeks, 
more  than  five  hundred  men  were  laid  in  the  dust  by 
this  fearful  scourge. 

Walking  in  company  with  our  friend  Rev.  Rowland 
Reese,  we  came  to  the  ground  where  these  half  a  thou- 
sand, together  with  several  hundred,  who  had  died 
previously,  were  buried,  and  the  first  thing  that  attracted 
our  attention  was  the  coflin  of  a  small  child,  which  lay 
partly  embedded  in  the  ground,  its  lid  broken  off",  and 
disclosing  some  of  the  bones  of  the  infant  which  the 
hungry  dogs  of  the  Chinese,  in  robbing  the  coflin,  had 
allowed  to  remain.  In  viewing  this,  we  recollected  that 
British  soldiers  were  sometimes  allowed  to  take  their 
wives  and  children  with  them,  and  they  are  consequently 
liable  to  share  the  fate  of  the  soldier.  Going  a  little 
farther,  we  found  ourselves  surrounded  with  cofiins  on 
every  side,  some  of  them  partly  covered,  others  entirely 
above  ground,  and  many  of  them  robbed  of  their  con- 
tents by  hungry  dogs  and  swine,  while  ghastly  skulls 
and  other  bones  lay  bleaching  far  and  near.  Our  hearts 
sickened  while  we  looked  around  upon  this  modern  Gol- 
gotha, and  we  fancied  we  heard  from  the  numerous 
skeletons  which  whitened  the  ground  around  us,  the 
bitterest  imprecations  uttered  against  that  cruel  w^ar 
system,  which  was  relentless  in  its  claims  upon  them 
while  living,  and  in  death  cast  them  beyond  the  common 
sympathies  of  humanity. 

We  left  this  scene  of  desolation,  indulging  the  reflec- 
tion that  those  great  ones-  of  the  earth,  who,  from 
motives  of  ambition  and  cupidity,  entail  so  much  misery 
upon  their  fellow  inen  as  results  from  the  practice  of 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA.  275 

war,  will  have  a  fearful  account  to  render  at  the  bar  of 
God.  Surely,  thought  we,  this  is  the  glory  which  mul- 
titudes who  enter  the  field  of  strife,  secure  to  themselves; 
they  die  like  the  brute,  and  are  denied  the  rights  of 
sepulture,  but  an  eternal  weight  of  glory  awaits  every 
christian  warrior. 

During  our  stay  at  Hong  Kong  we  became  acquainted 
with  several  Wesleyan  Methodists  from  England.  Some 
of  them  are  soldiers  in  the  army,  and  when  there  has 
been  a  sufficient  number  of  them,  they  have  formed 
themselves  into  classes,  and  as  far  as  their  circumstances 
would  permit,  they  have  in  other  respects  enjoyed  the 
institutions  of  Methodism.  The  Rev.  Rowland  Reese, 
who  resides  at  Hong  Kong,  and  has  been  for  several 
years  in  the  employ  of  the  government,  as  a  civil  engi- 
neer, is  a  local  preacher  from  England,  and  takes  a  very 
decided  stand  in  the  place  where  he  lives  in  favor  of 
that  form  of  Christianity  called  Methodism,  which  he 
considers  to  be  not  only  the  purest  in  the  world,  but 
the  most  efficient  in  its  '•''modus  operandiy 

Under  this  conviction,  he  has  frequently  addressed  the 
British  Conference  on  the  subject  of  sending  missionaries 
to  China,  proposing  to  give  towards  the  support  of  one, 
one  hundred  dollars  per  year,  though  his  income  is  quite 
limited.  He  has  at  length  gained  an  assurance  from 
the  president  of  the  conference,  that  measures  have 
been  taken  to  grant  his  request,  and  he  is  now  looking 
for  the  arrival  of  the  missionaries.  He  appears  to  be 
an  excellent  brother,  and  is  certainly  entitled  to  the 
blessing  of  those  who  entertain  strangers. 

Our  continuance  at  Hong  Kong  was  four  weeks,  three 
of  which  we  spent  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Reese.  Though 
the  expense  of  living  at  Hong  Kong  is  great,  yet  this 
truly  benevolent  man  furnished  us  with  all  the  comforts 
his  house  affi^rded,  without  money  and  without  price. 

On  the  15th  of  December  we  took  leave  of  our  newly 
formed  acquaintance  at  Hong  Kong,  and  taking  what 
the  Chinese  call  a  "fast  boat,"  proceeded  through  a 
perfect  labyrinth  of  islands,  across  the  mouth  of  Pearl 
river  to  the  city  of  Macao,  the  distance  of  thirty  miles. 


276  VOYAGE    TO    CHINA. 

It  was  late  in  a  very  dark  evening  when  we  arrived  in 
the  inner  harbor,  and  as  our  baggage  must  all  pass 
through  the  Custom  House  on  landing,  we  must  neces- 
sarily leave  it  in  the  care  of  the  Chinese  on  the  boat, 
during  the  night,  as  there  were  no  conveniences  for  our 
continuing  on  board.  This  arranged,  we  committed 
ourselves  to  the  guidance  of  the  captain  of  the  boat, 
having  given  him  the  name  of  the  individual  whom  we 
wished  to  find,  and  by  the  way  of  a  narrow  avenue,  on 
each  side  of  which  the  towering  walls  of  the  buildings 
were  rendered  scarcely  visible  by  the  glimmerings  of  a 
Chinese  lantern,  we  entered  the  densely  populated  city 
of  Macao.  Winding  along  the  crooked  lanes,  and  tra- 
veling as  fast  as  we  could  for  thirty  minutes  or  more, 
we  at  length  entered  a  gloomy  mansion,  situated  near 
the  centre  of  the  city,  where  our  guide  told  us  our  friend 
lived. 

Here  we  were  cordially  welcomed  by  the  Rev.  Dr. 
Happer,  a  missionary  of  the  Presbyterian  Board,  who 
had  kindly  invited  us  to  make  his  house  our  home  while 
we  desired  to  remain  in  the  city. 

Dr.  Happer  has  been  in  China  but  little  more  than  one 
year,  and  consequently  has  not  made  a  great  impression. 
He  has  established  a  school  of  twenty-five  Chinese  boys, 
and  is  teaching  them  the  English  language,  while  a 
person  employed  for  that  purpose  is  instructing  him  in 
the  Chinese.  He  feels  encouraged  to  prosecute  his 
work,  though  the  prospect  of  accomplishing  much,  is 
dark  before  him. 

Macao  is  a  Portuguese  town,  containing  forty  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  thirty-five  thousand  of  whom  are  Chi- 
nese, and  five  thousand  Portuguese.  Of  the  latter  there 
are  but  a  few  hundred  native  Portuguese,  they  being 
mostly  of  the  half-caste  population.  The  Portuguese 
pay  an  annual  tribute  to  China  for  the  privilege  of 
remaining  here,  and  indeed  Macao  is  under  the  control 
of  the  Chinese,  though  for  purposes  of  mutual  advantage, 
the  Portuguese  have  been  allowed  to  continue  in  posses- 
sion. 

The  Portuguese  first  established  themselves  here  more 


VOYAGE    to    CHINA.  277 

than  three  hundred  years  ago,  and  during  the  first  hun- 
dred years,  Popish  missionaries  from  this  point,  had 
penetrated  into  every  part  of  the  Chinese  Empire,  even 
into  the  very  palace  of  the  Emperor  himself.  But,  inter- 
meddling with  the  affairs  of  government,  the  priests  vrere 
banished  from  Pekin.  This  checked  the  prosperity  of 
the  Papists,  and  though  unw^earied  efforts  have  be^n 
made  ever  since  that  time  to  establish  Popery  perma- 
nently in  the  Empire,  yet  they  have  resulted  in  giving  it 
but  a  doubtful  footing. 

Macao,  how^ever,  being  under  the  domination  of 
Portugal,  is  papistical  in  its  character,  and  contains 
several  splendid  cathedrals  and  convents;  and  the  priests, 
from  the  snowy-headed  ''  padre  "  down  to  the  boy  of 
ten  years,  may  be  seen  perambulating  the  streets  in 
every  part  of  the  city,  almost  without  number.  Here 
CathoHcism  exists  in  its  grandeur  and  magnificence,  as 
well  as  in  its  disgusting  forms  and  nameless  mummeries. 
But  it  may  be  remarked,  in  favor  of  the  Cathohcs  of 
Macao,  that  they  are  more  tolerant  in  their  principles 
and  practice  than  any  other  Catholics  in  the  world. 
During  the  celebration  of  high  mass  on  Christmas  eve, 
we  took  the  opportunity  of  visiting  three  of  the  most 
splendid  churches  in  the  city,  and  in  neither  of  them 
were  we  obliged  to  kneel,  even  at  the  elevation  of  the 
Sacred  Host. 

During  the  short  but  sanguinary  contest  betwixt  the 
English  and  Chinese,  Macao,  as  a  matter  of  course, 
remained  neutral;  and  as  a  consequence  of  the  war,  and 
during  the  short  period  of  six  years,  she  made  more 
rapid  improvements  than  ever  before  :  but  when  the 
articles  of  peace  were  signed  under  her  walls,  the  death 
blow  was  given  to  her  prosperity. 

English  capital  and  English  influence  have  already 
placed  her  rival.  Hong  Kong,  or  Victoria,  far  above 
her  in  point  of  wealth  and  commercial  importance, 
though  it  is  but  five  years  since  the  latter  sprang  into 
being  ;  whereas  Macao  boasts  of  an  antiquity  of  more 
than  three  hundred  years.  The  houses  of  some  parts 
of  Macao  are  built  after  the  European  style,  though  the 


278  VOYAGE    TO    OHINA. 

streets  are  very  narrow  and  dirty,  v^hile  in  some  places, 
as  you  pass  along,  the  buildings  present  the  appearance 
of  dismal  prisons.  Other  parts  of  the  city  are  peculiarly 
Chinese,  and  these  are  by  far  the  most  extensive,  and 
give  one  a  very  correct  idea  of  the  large  cities  of  the 
Chinese  Empire. 

There  are  a  number  of  places  of  interest  in  and  about 
the  city  of  Macao,  vrhich,  from  the  satisfaction  a  visit  to 
them  is  calculated  to  afford,  are  well  worthy  the  atten- 
tion of  travelers.  The  first  in  order  is  that  of  the  Grand 
Prior. 

The  portion  of  the  city  around  the  Grand  Prior,  on 
landing  from  the  outer  harbor,  is  the  most  interesting 
part  of  the  Portuguese  division  of  the  town.  It  is  built 
round  the  borders  of  the  beautiful  bay  which  constitutes 
the  harbor  in  the  form  of  a  semi-circle,  and  the  Prior 
forms  an  elegant  promenade,  not  only  for  all  the  fashion 
and  elite  of  the  town,  but  for  all  such  as  desire  to  enjoy 
the  invigorating  breeze  which  comes  in  from  the  bosom 
of  the  Chinese  Sea.  Here  may  be  seen  almost  every 
day,  Portuguese,  Englishmen,  Frenchmen,  Spaniards, 
Americans,  Germans,  Chinese,  Indians,  Parsees,  Hawai- 
ians,  &c.,  mingling  in  one  common  troop  along  this 
beautiful  Prior,  and  all  apparently  delighted  with  the 
surrounding  scenery. 

Passing  from  the  Prior  to  the  north,  partly  through 
the  town,  you  come  to  a  second  place  of  interest,  which 
is  the  Bazaar,  or  market,  of  the  city.  This  is  situated 
in  the  Chinese  portion  of  the  town,  and  contains  all 
kinds  of  fruits,  vegetables,  and  provisions  peculiar  to  the 
country.  Among  the  fruits,  oranges  and  bannanas  are 
the  most  prominent  kinds;  the  former  being  more  abun- 
dant than  apples  in  New  York,  and  four  large  fresh 
oranges  can  be  procured  for  one  cent.  One  is  astonished 
in  passing  through  the  Bazaar  to  see  the  immense  variety 
of  meats,  fish  and  fowl,  with  which  it  abounds.  In 
addition  to  the  common  kinds,  such  as  beef,  pigs,  mutton, 
capons,  geese  and  ducks,  may  be  found  an  astonishing 
variety,  among  which  dogs,  cats,  rats  and  frogs,  are 
the  most  prominent.      These  may  be  had  either  alive, 


iL 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA.  270 

dressed,  or  cooked,  so  that  the  most  fastidious  can  easily 
be  accommodated. 

The  Chinese  Heathen  Temple,  situated  within  the 
precincts,  and  at  the  east  end  of  the  city,  is  another  object 
of  curiosity  to  all  strangers  who  visit  this  part  of  China. 
This  temple  was  principally  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock, 
and  its  appearance  reminds  one  of  the  Bible  accounts 
of  the  idolatrous  practices  of  the  nations  of  antiquity; 
several  majestic  banyan  trees  extending  over  it  their  huge 
branches,  cast  a  sombre  shade  upon  its  different  depart- 
ments, while  its  walls  of  blackened  granite,  and  the 
hideous  images  which  appear  on  every  hand,  as  the 
gloomy  nature  of  the  worship  there  paid  to  heathen 
gods,  are  calculated  to  make  impressions  upon  the  mind 
of  the  beholder  at  once  solemn  and  affecting.  Here  w^e 
witnessed,  for  the  first  time,  the  priests  of  Budha  in  hum.- 
ble  prostration  before  their  idols,  and  while  witnessing 
their  devotions,  our  fervent  ejaculations  were  ascending 
to  heaven  that  the  long  night  of  death  which  has  reigned 
over  them,  unbroken,  may  soon  pass  away,  and  the  de- 
votees of  this  cruel  system  of  idolatry,  become  the 
true  worshipers  of  the  living  God. 

There  are  several  beautiful  gardens  within  the  walls 
of  the  city,  among  which  the  Casser  Garden,  at  the 
western  end  of  the  city,  is  the  most  popular  as  a  place 
of  resort. 

This  is  celebrated  on  account  of  the  beauty  of  its 
shaded  walks,  the  variety  of  the  plants  and  shrubbery 
by  which  it  is  adorned,  the  enchanting  nature  of  its 
scenery,  but  principally  from  its  containing  within  its 
enclosure  the  celebrated  grotto  known  by  the  name  of 
Camoen's  Cave. 

This  cave  procured  its  cognomen  from  the  following 
circumstance  :  Camoen  was  appointed  by  the  crown  of 
Portugal  to  an  important  office  in  the  colony  of  Macao, 
and  while  residing  in  this  place,  he  spent  a  great  share 
of  his  time  in  the  solitude  of  this  cave.  It  was  here 
that  this  most  celebrated  of  all  Portuguese  poets  com- 
posed his  "  Lusiad,"  a  poem  which  has  rendered  his 
name  immortal.     The  cave  is  interesting  as   a  natural 


^80  VOYAGE    TO    CHINA. 

curiosity,  out  it  has  been  materially  injured  by  an  at- 
tempt to  adorn  and  beautify  it  by  artificial  works.  It 
contains  a  bust  of  the  celebrated  man  who  has  given  it 
a  name  that  it  will  probably  bear  to  the  end  of  time.  In 
connection  with  this  it  might  be  proper  to  observe  that 
after  he  left  Macao,  Camoen  and  his  manuscript  poems 
were  both  singularly  and  providentially  preserved  from 
unmerited  obhvion.  The  vessel  in  which  he  sailed  from 
Macao,  was  wrecked  in  the  Chinese  Sea  ;  fortunately, 
however,  not  a  great  distance  from  the  shore.  When  it 
appeared  evident  that  the  vessel  was  lost,  and  there 
being  no  other  means  of  saving  himself,  forgetting  every 
thing  else  as  comparatively  worthless,  he  seized  his  man- 
uscript in  one  hand,  and  cast  himself  into  the  sea. 
Presently,  the  few  who  had  gained  the  shore  before 
him,  discovered  Camoen  struggling  in  the  briny  element, 
and  bearing  in  one  hand  above  the  surface  of  the  agi- 
tated waters,  the  poem  that  was  destined  to  give  him  an 
earthly  immortality.  At  length  a  fortunate  wave  came 
to  his*  assistance,  and  he  was  borne  in  triumph  to  the 
shore,  happy  that,  with  the  loss  of  his  wealth,  he  had 
saved  what  he  esteemed  of  infinitely  more  value,  the 
instrument  which  was  destined  to  attach  to  his  memory 
an  enviable  and  enduring  fame. 

There  are  also  a  number  of  eminences  in  and  about 
the  place,  which  overlook  the  entire  town  and  harbor, 
and  which  are  very  strongly  fortified.  Some  of  the 
guns  by  which  the  battlements  are  mounted,  are  of 
astonishing  calibre,  and  bear  date  as  ancient  as  1625. 

From  the  hill  on  which  the  "  Central  Fort  "  is  built, 
the  view  of  the  city,  harbor,  roads,  and  the  adjacent 
islands,  is  sufficiently  interesting  to  pay  one  for  the  labor 
of  chmbing  to  its  summit.  From  this  spot  was  pointed 
out  to  us  the  precise  place  where  the  English  and  Chi- 
nese embassadors  signed  the  preliminaries  of  peace  at 
the  conclusion  of  the  late  war.  On  the  ramparts  of  the 
"  Central  Fort "  I  counted  fifty  of  the  engines  of  death 
ready  to  pour  ruin  upon  invading  foes. 

Having  visited  every  thing  of  interest  in  and  around 
the  city  of  Macao,  we  prepared  to  take  our  leave;  de- 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA.  28) 

siring  to  spend  as  many  days  in  Canton  before  embark- 
ing for  the  United  States,  as  we  possibly  could.  We 
had  received  a  pressing  invitation  from  Dr.  Devan,  a 
missionary  of  the  Baptist  Board,  resident  in  Canton,  to 
make  his  house  our  home  so  long  as  we  desired  to  re- 
main in  the  place.  Accordingly,  on  Wednesday,  the 
7th  of  January,  accompanied  by  Mrs.  Hooper,  one  of 
our  fellow  passengers  on  the  Leland,  we  embarked  on  a 
*'  fast  boat,"  and  with  a  fresh  breeze  proceeded  up  the 
Ca.nton  river. 

These  "  fast  boats "  are  always  manned  by  Chinese, 
and,  though  differing  from  any  other  water  craft  which 
I  have  seen  in  any  other  part  of  the  world,  are  quite 
comfortable  for  the  conveyance  of  passengers;  and  as 
they  are  propelled  by  oars  when  the  wind  does  not  serve, 
they  usually  perform  their  passages  with  considerable 
dispatch;  passengers  always  furnishing  themselves  with 
bed  and  board. 

It  was  near  sundown  when  we  left  the  Grand  Prior, 
and  before  we  had  proceeded  far,  darkness  had  shut 
from  our  view  all  surrounding  objects,  and  reposing  on 
the  beds  we  had  spread  for  our  temporary  use,  we  fell 
asleep,  and  the  next  morning  found  ourselves  above  the 
Bogue,  or  Bona  Tigris,  and  gliding  along  past  the  vil- 
lages, paddy  fields,  and  Pagodas,  by  which  the  banks  of 
the  river  are  adorned.  Before  passing  Whampoa,  we 
stopped  a  few  moments  along  side  the  Leland,  which 
had  already  commenced  receiving  her  cargo,  and  leaving 
some  of  our  baggage  on  board,  we  proceeded  on  through 
the  multitude  of  boats  which  thronged  the  river,  and 
which  seemed  to  multiply  in  a  ten-fold  proportion  as  we 
approximated  the  "  Provincial  City."  It  was  nearly 
dark  when  we  arrived  off  the  place  of  landing,  and  we 
found  the  wharf  so  thronged  with  boats  that  it  was  im- 
possible for  us  to  approach  it  nearer  than  fifty  yards. 
We  began  to  fear  that  we  should  be  under  the  necessity 
of  spending  the  night  on  the  boat ;  no  very  comfortable 
prospect  in  view  of  the  piratical  propensities  of  the 
thousands  by  which  we  were  surrounded.  And  as  for 
confusion,  Babel  itself  could  not  have  presented  a  worse 
12* 


S&3  VOYAGE    TO    CHINA. 

state.  However,  I  hastened  to  dispatch  a  short  note  to 
Dr.  Devan,  by  one  of  the  officers  of  the  boat,  and  for- 
tunately the  note  found  him.  At  eight  o'clock  he  and 
his  most  amiable  wife  gave  us  a  hearty  welcome  at  their 
house,  which  is  situated  in  one  of  the  densest  portions 
of  the  suburbs  of  the  great  city  of  Canton,  and  on  one 
of  the  principal  avenues  leading  to  one  of  the  gates  of 
the  city  proper. 

Here  we  are  then,  brought  by  a  succession  of  favora- 
ble providences,  and  placed  in  the  midst  of  the  great 
and  wonderful  city  of  Canton.  Every  thing  surrounding 
us  is  new  and  striking.  The  people,  the  costume,  the 
buildings,  the  streets,  and  every  thing  the  eye  beholds, 
present  an  aspect  totally  different  from  any  thing  exist- 
ing in  any  other  portion  of  the  world;  and  to  give  a 
minute  and  intelligible  description  of  the  almost  infinite 
variety  which  this  one  city  presents  to  the  view  of  the 
stranger,  if  it  were  possible  to  accomplish  it,  would  re- 
quire volumes,  and  cannot  therefore  be  expected  in  this 
journal.  It  will  be  impossible  even  to  carry  out  the 
design  of  the  traveler  to  Rome,  who  observed  that  he 
should  ''give  a  description  of  the  Rome  which  he  saw;" 
but  it  must  suffice  the  reader  to  be  introduced  to  a  few 
subjects  important  to  be  understood,  and  interesting  to 
contemplate  relating  to  the  celebrated  city  of  Canton. 

The  Chinese  write  the  name  of  their  city,  Kwang- 
tung  Sang  Ching,  "  chief  city  of  the  province  of  Kwang- 
tung,"  but  in  conversation  they  usually  call  it  "  Sang 
Ching,"  the  "  Provincial  City."  Doubtless  Canton  is  a 
corruption  of  Kwangtung.  This  city  is  situated  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Choo  Keang,  or  Pearl  river,  and 
about  sixty  miles  from  the  great  sea.  It  is  in  the  twenty- 
third  degree  of  north  latitude,  and  one  hundred  and 
thirteenth  east  longitude  from  Greenwich. 

The  scenery  around  the  city,  though  beautiful,  and  to 
some  extent  diversified,  presents  nothing  bold  or  roman- 
tic. On  the  north  and  north-east  sides,  distant  a  few 
miles,  may  be  seen  a  range  of  hills  or  mountains,  but 
in  every  other  direction  the  prospect  is  unobscured. 
The   rivers,   channels   and   canals,  are  very  numerous, 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA.  283 

and  are  covered  with  a  vast  variety  of  boats,  which  are 
continually  passing  to  and  from  the  neighboring  towns 
and  villages.  Southward  the  water  covers  nearly  one- 
fourth  of  the  whole  surface.  Paddy  fields  and  gardens 
occupy  the  low  lands,  and  occasionally  may  be  seen  little 
hills  and  groves  of  trees  rising  here  and  there,  to  diver- 
sify the  scene. 

Canton  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  cities  in  the  world, 
at  least  among  those  that  have  survived  the  revolutions 
of  time.  We  have  pretty  satisfactory  evidence  that  it 
existed  several  hundred  years  before  the  Christian  era, 
and,  according  to  Chinese  classics,  one  of  the  ancient 
emperors,  four  thousand  years  ago,  commanded  one  of 
his  ministers  to  repair  to  the  southern  country,  and 
govern  the  city,  which  was  then  called  the  Splendid 
Capital,  and  the  country  surrounding  it.  If  this  be  true, 
a  large  city  occupied  the  site  of  the  present  city  of 
Canton  more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  before 
the  time  of  Abraham, 

The  city  of  Canton  may  be  considered  as  divided  into 
two  parts;  the  city  proper,  or  that  portion  within  the 
walls,  and  the  portion  without  the  walls,  or  the  suburbs, 
which  differs  in  its  buildings,  streets  and  extent  of  popu- 
lation, very  little  from  that  within  the  walls.  That  part 
of  the  city  enclosed  by  a  wall  is  built  nearly  in  the  form 
of  a  square,  and  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  a  wall 
running  from  east  to  west. 

The  northern,  which  is  the  largest  part,  is  called  the 
old  city,  and  the  southern,  the  new  city.  The  entire 
circuit  of  the  wall,  including  both  divisions  of  the  city 
within,  is  variously  estimated  at  from  six  to  eight  Eng- 
lish miles.  The  walls  rise  nearly  perpendicularly,  and 
vary  in  height  from  twenty-five  to  forty  feet.  They  are 
about  twenty  feet  thick,  and  are  composed  of  stone  and 
brick.  A  line  of  battlements  is  raised  on  the  top  of 
the  walls  at  intervals  of  a  few  feet  around  the  whole 
city.  Leading  through  the  outside  wall  are  twelve  gates 
bearing  different  names,  some  of  which  are  very  signifi- 
cant :  Wooseen  Mun  is  "  the  gate  of  the  five  genii." 
Yungtsing  Mun  is  "  the  gate  of  eternal  purity."     This 


284  VOYAGE    TO    CHINA. 

is  the  gate  that  leads  to  the  place  where  criminals  are 
publicly  decapitated.  Yungan  Mun  is  ^' the  gate  of 
eternal  rest."  At  each  of  the  gates  a  few  soldiers  are 
stationed  to  watch  them  by  day,  and  close  and  guard 
them  by  night. 

The  principal  part  of  the  suburbs  are  situated  on  the 
south  and  west  sides  of  the  city.  They  are  much  less 
extensive  on  the  east  than  on  the  west;  and  on  the  north 
there  are  very  few  buildings,  owing  probably  to  the  fact 
that  the  city  proper  in  that  direction  extends  on  to  the 
sides  of  a  range  of  hills.  This  fact  is  poetically  ex- 
pressed by  a  Chinese  writer,  who  observes  that,  on  the 
north  ^'  the  city  rests  on  the  brow  of  a  hill." 

It  is  said  by  good  authority  that  there  are  from  six 
hundred  to  a  thousand  streets  in  the  city  of  Canton. 
Some  of  them  are  long,  but  most  of  them  are  short  and 
crooked.  The  broadest  street  in  Canton  is  sixteen  feet 
wide,  and  there  are  hundreds  not  more  than  two  feet. 
These  are  all  flagged  with  stones,  mostly  large  granite 
slabs. 

It  will  be  impossible  to  give  any  idea  of  the  immense 
motley  crowd  that  daily  throngs  these  narrow  lanes. 
The  stout,  half-naked,  vociferating  coolies,  bearing  every 
description  of  merchandise  on  their  backs,  the  noisy 
sedan-bearers,  together  with  the  numerous  travelers, 
retailers,  pedlars,  barbers,  tinkers,  beggars,  &c.,  presents 
a  scene  before  the  spectator  which  puts  all  his  powers 
of  description  at  defiance. 

In  the  suburbs,  near  the  south-west  corner  of  the  city, 
are  situated  the  foreign  factories,  of  which  there  are 
thirteen.  They  occupy  a  plot  of  ground  extending 
sixty  rods  from  east  to  west,  and  forty  from  north  to 
south.  The  factories  present  a  very  firm  and  substantial 
appearance,  being  but  two  stories  high,  and  with  the 
exception  of  two  narrow  streets,  forming  one  solid 
block,  each  factory  extending  in  length,  the  whole 
breadth  of  the  block.  They  are  ownod  by  the  Chinese 
Hong  merchants,  and  are  occupied  by  the  Dutch,  Eng- 
lish, Swedes,  Americans,  French  and  Danes.  The 
different  factories  may  be  distinguished  by  the  flags  of 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA.  285 

their    respective  nations,  which   constantly  wave   over 
them. 

In  the  afternoon  of  Friday,  the  9th,  Dr.  Devan  pro- 
posed to  conduct  Mrs.  H.  and  myself  to  those  parts  of 
the  city  where  it  was  safe  for  ladies  to  go,  with  which 
we  readily  acquiesced,  as  we  desired  to  learn  as  much 
as  we  possibly  could  concerning  one  of  the  great  cities 
of  the  Celestial  Empire.  It  is  but  a  short  time  since 
foreign  females  have  been  allowed  to  approach  nearer 
to  the  city  of  Canton  than  Macao.  The  ladies  are 
indebted  to  the  bloody  gallantry  of  British  soldiers,  for 
the  privilege  of  walking  the  crowded  streets  of  this 
wonderful  city.  But  even  now,  though  the  recent  trea- 
ties with  other  nations  provide  for  such  a  privilege,  yet 
a  very  large  portion  of  the  wealthy  Chinese  population 
are  violently  opposed  to  foreigners  penetrating  far  into 
the  city,  especially  to  pass  through  the  gates.  Notwith- 
standing this,  according  to  arrangement,  we  set  off  on 
our  tour,  first  taking  the  hongs  and  the  factories,  where 
the  foreign  merchants,  and  the  missionaries  of  the  A.  B. 
C.  F.  M.  reside.  After  calhng  on  some  of  the  latter, 
we  continued  on  some  half  mile  or  more  direct  towards 
one  of  the  gates  opening  into  that  part  of  the  city,  yet 
too  sacred  to  be  polluted  by  the  feet  of  barbarians.  As 
we  penetrated  farther  and  farther  into  the  city,  beyond 
the  common  walks  of  foreigners,  it  was  astonishing  to 
us  to  observe  the  great  curiosity  that  was  excited  among 
the  countless  multitudes  of  Chinese  through  which  we 
passed,  by  the  appearance  of  a  foreign  lady  walking  by 
the  side  of  a  gentleman,  in  the  thronged  avenue,  where 
never  a  Chinese  lady  is  allowed  to  go  except  as  carried 
by  her  servants,  inclosed  in  her  palanquin.  We  could 
not  stop  for  a  single  moment  for  fear  of  being  so 
thronged  as  not  to  be  able  to  extricate  ourselves,  but 
found  it  necessary  to  urge  ourselves  onward  as  fast  as 
we  possibly  could  walk,  while  the  excited  mass  poured 
after  us  in  wild  confusion,  and  every  now  and  then  a 
stalwart  form  rushing  through  the  crowd,  would  thrust 
himself   before  us  for  the  purpose  of  getting  one  fair 


^ 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA. 


peep  into  the  face  of  a  foreign  lady  before  she  had 
passed  beyond  their  reach. 

At  length  we  came  to  what  Dr.  Devan  told  us  was 
the  gate  of  the  city  proper,  but  we  did  not  dare  to  enter 
it,  nor  even  to  stop  near  it,  such  was  the  excitement 
that  prevailed  wherever  we  appeared  ;  but  casting  a 
passing  look  within  the  walls,  we  continued  walking  for 
an  hour,  until  we  had  explored  a  number  of  the  princi- 
pal streets,  and  at  almost  every  step  we  were  saluted 
by  the  name  of  "  Fan-qui,"  (barbarian),  and  some  times 
Dr.  Devan  told  us  they  would  call  us  ''  evil  spirits." 

Before  closing  our  perambulations,  we  visited  the 
Ningpoo  Exchange,  which  is  a  famous  building,  so  far 
up  in  the  city  that  strangers  seldom  visit  it.  It  contains 
almost  countless  apartments,  and  at  every  turn  and 
corner  is  placed  a  brazen  idol  before  which  the  smoke  of 
burning  incense  is  continually  rising.  In  this  Exchange 
a  vast  amount  of  business  is  performed  by  commercial 
men  from  all  parts  of  China.  Impressed  with  the 
novelty  of  every  thing  we  had  witnessed,  we  returned 
to  Dr.  De van's  in  safety,  and  on  Saturday,  the  10th, 
found  ourselves  prepared  to  visit  the  celebrated  Temple 
of  Honan. 

This  most  popular  heathen  temple  in  the  Province  of 
Kwangtung,  is  situated  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Choo-keang  river  from  Canton.  Accompanied  by  our 
friends.  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Devan,  and  a  Chinese  interpreter, 
we  engaged  a  boatman  to  row  us  across  the  river  to  this 
splendid  "  Jos-house  "  of  the  Chinese.  On  entering  the 
temple  and  casting  an  eye  around  upon  the  objects 
within,  here,  said  I,  idolatry  must  appear  in  its  most 
magnificent  aspects.  As  we  entered  the  gateway  lead- 
ing to  the  inner  court,  there  were  two  colossal  figures, 
images  of  deified  warriors,  stationed,  one  on  the  right 
and  the  other  on  the  left,  to  guard  the  entrance  to  the 
sacred  palaces.  Further  on  we  came  to  the  palace  of 
the  "four  great  celestial  kings,"  images  of  ancient 
heroes.  Still  further  on  we  were  conducted  along  a 
broad  pathway  to  "  the  great  powerful  palace."     Enter- 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA,  5287 

ing  this  we  found  ourselves  in  the  presence  of  ''  the 
three  precious  Budhas/'  three  stately  and  magnificent 
images  representing  the  past,  the  present,  and  the  future 
Budha.  The  hall  or  palace  where  these  images  are 
placed,  is  one  hundred  feet  square,  and  contains  nume- 
rous other  images  of  deified  heroes,  real  or  imaginary, 
before  which  altars  are  erected  and  incense  is  kept 
constantly  burning.  The  temple  is  vast,  and  the  build- 
ings embraced  within  the  sacred  inclosures  are  numerous, 
and  contain  large  numbers  of  Chinese  gods.  Some  of 
the  idols  are  truly  splendid  specimens  of  the  works  of 
art,  and  as  they  are  arranged  in  perfect  order  around 
the  walls  of  their  respective  and  spacious  halls,  all  of 
bronze  work,  and  measuring  from  eight  to  twenty  feet 
in  height,  they  present  a  very  imposing  appearance.  In 
addition  to  these  shining  images,  there  were  several 
rough  stones  pointed  out  to  us  as  being  numbered  with 
Chinese  gods. 

We  were  led  by  our  conductor  to  the  apartments 
containing  the  sacred  hogs  and  geese,  and  were  assured 
that  it  was  an  uncommon  privilege  for  strangers  to  be 
allowed  to  behold  these  squalling  and  grunting  divinities. 

In  "  the  great  and  powerful  palace,  "  which  contains 
"  the  three  precious  Budhas,"  is  hung  a  very  large  brass 
bell,  which  is  used  by  the  priests  at  the  hour  of  worship 
to  wake  up  the  slumbering  deities  and  to  call  their  atten- 
tion to  the  oblations  of  their  devotees.  One  of  the  party, 
taking  hold  of  the  huge  tongue  of  the  bell,  drew  it  up 
at  one  side  and  let  it  fall  back  against  the  other  with 
such  force  as  to  cause  the  whole  temple  to  ring  wdth  its 
vibrations.  Some  of  the  priests  started  back  as  with 
fear,  but  so  soon  as  the  sound  had  died  away  they  came 
forward  and  reproached  us  for  such  a  gross  violation  of 
the  sanctity  of  the  place.  In  addition  to  this  we  were 
guilty  of  another  sacrilegious  act  in  taking  some  of  the 
incense  which  was  smoking  before  the  idols,  and  bring- 
ing it  away  with  us  ;  much,  however,  to  the  diversion 
of  our  Chinese  attendants.  As  it  was  not  the  hour  of 
worship  we  did  not  witness  the  devotions  of  the  priests, 
but  ascertained  that  at  five  o'clock,  p.  M.,  every  day, 


288  VOYAGE    TO    CHINA. 

they  celebrate  their  vespers  in  the  palace  of  the  precious 
Budhas. 

Parallel  with  each  other  on  the  right  and  left,  are  long 
lines  of  apartments,  one  of  which  is  a  printing  office, 
and  others  are  used  as  cells  for  priests,  stalls  for  pigs 
and  fowls,  a  retreat  for  "  the  king  of  hades,"  the  chief 
priest's  room,  a  dining  hall,  a  kitchen,  &c.,  and  beyond 
these  is  a  spacious  garden,  at  the  extremity  of  which 
there  is  a  mausoleum  wherein  the  ashes  of  burnt  priests 
once  a  year  are  deposited.  Here  also  was  pointed  out 
to  us  a  furnace  wherein  the  bodies  of  dead  priests  are 
burned,  and  a  little  cell  where  the  jars  containing  their 
ashes  are  kept  until  the  time  for  depositing  them  in  the 
mausoleum  arrives. 

We  ascertained  that  there  were  connected  with  this 
one  heathen  temple  nearly  two  hundred  priests  ;  and 
judging  from  the  immense  expense  of  sustaining  this 
establishment,  we  could  but  come  to  the  conclusion  that 
it  costs  China  more  to  support  idolatry  than  all  Christen- 
dom pays  to  propagate  the  Gospel  of  the  Son  of  God. 

In  connection  with  this  it  may  be  proper  to  subjoin  a 
brief  history  of  the  temple  of  Honan  as  given  by  the 
Chinese,  and  which  has  been  furnished  in  English  by  Dr. 
Bridgeman  of  Canton  :  "It  was  originally  a  private 
garden  ;  but  afterwards,  several  hundred  years  ago,  a 
priest  named  Cheyue,  built  up  an  establishment  which  he 
called  '  the  temple  of  ten  thousand  autumns,'  and  dedi- 
cated it  to  Budha.  It  remained  an  obscure  place,  how- 
ever, until  about  a.  d.  1600,  when  a  priest  of  eminent 
devotion,  with  his  pupil  Ahtsze,  together  with  a  concur- 
rence of  extraordinary  circumstances,  raised  it  to  its 
present  magnificence.  In  the  reign  of  Kanghe,  and  as 
late  as  a.  d.  1700,  the  province  of  Canton  was  not  fully 
subjugated  ;  and  a  son-in-law  of  the  emperor  was  sent 
hither  to  bring  the  whole  country  under  his  father's 
sway.  This  he  accomplished,  received  the  title  of 
'  Pingnan-wang,  king  of  the  subjugated  South,'  and 
took  up  his  head  quarters  in  the  temple  of  Honan.  There 
were  then  thirteen  villages  on  the  island,  which  he  had 
orders  to  exterminate  for  their  opposition  to  the  imperial 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA.  ^89 

forces.  Just  before  carrying  into  effect  this  order,  the 
king,  Pingnan,  a  blood-thirsty  man,  cast  his  eyes  on 
Ahtsze,  a  fat  happy  priest,  and  remarked  that  if  he  Hved 
on  vegetable  diet  he  could  not  be  so  fat ;  he  must  be  a 
hypocrite,  and  should  be  punished  with  death.  He 
drew  his  sword  to  execute  with  his  own  hand  the  sen- 
tence ;  but  his  arm  suddenly  stiffened,  and  he  was 
stopped  from  his  purpose.  That  night  a  divine  person 
appeared  to  him  in  a  dream,  and  assured  him  that  Ahtsze 
was  a  holy  man,  adding,  *you  must  not  unjustly  kill 
him.'  Next  morning  the  king  presented  himself  before 
Ahtsze,  confessed  his  crime,  and  his  arm  was  immediately 
restored.  He  then. did  obeisance  to  the  priest,  and  took 
him  for  his  tutor  and  guide  ;  and  morning  and  evening 
the  king  waited  on  the  priest  as  his  servant. 

''  The  inhabitants  of  the  thirteen  villages  now  heard 
of  this  miracle,  and  solicited  the  priest  to  intercede 
in  their  behalf,  that  they  might  be  rescued  from  the 
sentence  of  extermination.  The  priest  interceded,  and 
the  king  Hstened,  answering  thus  :  '  I  have  received 
an  imperial  order  to  exterminate  these  rebels,  but  since 
you,  my  master,  say  they  now  submit,  be  it  so  ;  I  must, 
however,  send  the  troops  round  to  the  several  villages, 
before  I  can  report  to  the  emperor ;  I  will  do  this,  and 
then  beg  that  they  may  be  spared.'  The  king  fulfilled 
his  promise,  and  the  villages  were  saved.  Their  grati- 
tude to  the  priest  was  unbounded  ;  and  estates,  and 
incense,  and  money,  were  poured  in  upon  him.  The 
king,  also,  persuaded  his  officers  to  make  donations  to 
the  temple,  and  it  became  affluent  from  that  day. 

''  The  temple  had  then  no  hall  for  celestial  kings,  and 
at  the  outer  gate  there  was  a  pool  belonging  to  a  rich 
man  who  refused  to  sell  it,  although  Ahtsze  offered  him 
a  large  compensation.  The  king,  conversing  with  the 
priest  one  day,  said,  '  this  temple  is  deficient,  for  it  has 
no  hall  for  the  celestial  kings.'  The  priest  replied,  'a 
terrestrial  king,  please  your  highness,  is  the  proper  per- 
son to  rear  a  pavilion  to  the  celestial  kings.'  The  king 
took  the  hint,  and  seized  on  the  pool  of  the  rich  man, 
who  was  now  very  glad  to  present  it  without  compen- 


290  VOYAGE    TO    CHINA. 

sation  ;  and  he  gave  command,  moreover,  that  a  paviHon 
should  be  completed  in  fifteen  days  ;  but  at  the  priest's 
intercession,  the  workmen  v^^ere  allowed  one  month  to 
finish  it ;  and  by  laboring  diligently  night  and  day,  they 
accomplished  it  in  that  time." 

Such  is  the  history  of  the  temple  of  Honan,  which  is 
said  to  be  the  largest  and  best  endowed  establishment  of 
the  kind  in  this  part  of  China. 

The  reader  can  form  some  idea  of  the  extent  of  this 
temple  when  he  is  informed  that  its  buildings  and  gar- 
dens occupy  from  eight  to  ten  English  acres  of  ground. 
We  left  this  gloomy  scene  not  without  indulging  the 
hope  that  the  time  would  come  when  a  church  of  the 
Hving  God  would  supplant  this  temple  of  Budha,  and  the 
great  bell  be  used  to  call  devout  worshipers  to  the  house 
of  prayer. 

Sunday,  11th.  Attended  worship  at  t!ie  house  of 
Rev.  Dr.  Parker,  in  the  morning,  and  heard  a  good  ser- 
mon by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Wood,  of  the  Episcopal  church. 
This  gentleman  recently  came  from  the  United  States  as 
a  missionary  to  the  Chinese,  but,  for  reasons  doubtless 
satisfactory  to  himself,  he  returns  home  after  a  residence 
of  two  months. 

Dr.  Parker,  in  addition  to  his  missionary  work,  super- 
intends the  English  service,  which  is  conducted  at  his 
own  house  every  Sabbath  day. 

At  two  o'clock,  p.  M.,  attended  Chinese  service  at 
Dr.  Parker's  hospital,  and  heard  a  celebrated  Chinese 
preacher  deliver  a  discourse  in  the  native  language. 

This  man  has  officiated  as  a  kind  of  evangehst  among 
the  Chinese  for  several  years,  and  from  his  ardent  zeal, 
and  continued  sufferings  in  his  work,  has  given  evidence 
of  great  sincerity.  He  has  been  violently  persecuted  by 
his  countrymen  at  different  times,  and  once  was  under 
the  necessity  of  flying  his  country  to  save  his  life. 
However,  at  the  present  time,  he  travels  wherever  he 
pleases,  and  preaches  without  molestation. 

At  three  o'clock,  attended  Chinese  service  w4th  Dr. 
Devan,  in  one  of  the  densest  portions  of  the  city.  The 
flace  where  the  Doctor  preaches  he  calls  the  "  Dispensa- 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA.  291 

tory."  It  is  about  twelve  feet  square  ;  opens  at  one  side  to 
the  street,  which  is  constantly  thronged  with  passers  by. 
Occasionally  one  is  attracted  by  the  voice  of  the  preacher, 
and  either  stops  in  the  street,  or  walks  into  the  dispen- 
satory, and  listens  a  short  time.  Very  few,  however, 
give  their  attention  to  a  whole  discourse.  The  utmost 
confusion  prevailed  in  front  of  the  dispensatory,  or 
preaching-place,  while,  but  from  six  to  ten  occupied  the 
benches  during  service,  and  these  were  mostly  in  the 
pay  of  the  missionary,  as  assistant  preachers,  teachers, 
or  servants.  Though  an  ardent  friend  of  the  missionary 
cause,  I  could  but  think  that,  if  the  labors  bestowed  here 
were  productive  of  much  good,  it  would  certainly  be 
against  all  human  probability.  Dr.  Devan,  and  all  other 
missionaries  here,  are  in  the  habit  of  distributing  testa- 
ments and  other  religious  books,  at  the  conclusion  of 
divine  service. 

The  missionaries  themselves,  from  the  difficulty  of 
acquiring  the  language,  preach  but  little,  but  are  in  the 
habit  of  employing  Chinese  assistants.  Doubtless  some 
credit  is  to  be  given  for  the  genuineness  of  the  conver- 
sion, and  the  sincerity  of  some  of  these  Chinese  assistants; 
but  from  the  best  information  I  have  been  able  to  obtain, 
I  am  led  to  the  conclusion  that,  in  China,  as  well  as  in 
some  other  heathen  countries,  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten, 
the  converts,  in  identifying  themselves  with  the  mission- 
aries, are  governed  mainly  by  motives  of  self  interest. 
And,  indeed,  nearly  all  of  them  receive  pay  from  the 
different  churches  to  which  they  belong.  They  are  gene- 
rally hired  as  preachers,  teachers,  tract  distributors,  or 
servants,  and  generally  relapse  into  their  former  habits  on 
being  dismissed  from  their  employment.  In  view  of 
these  things,  it  is  not  strange  that  visitors,  and  the  mer- 
chants that  reside  at  Canton,  generally,  express  it  as  their 
opinion  that  the  missionary  labor  performed  among  the 
Chinese,  is  entirely  useless.  But  persons  forming  such 
an  opinion,  are  generally  ignorant  of  that  principle  which 
stimulates  the  servant  of  God  to  sow  his  seed  in  the 
morning,  and  in  the  evening  not  to  withhold  his  hand, 
namely,  that  faith  which  believes,  even  against  hope. 


29SJ  VOYAGfe   TO   ciiil^A. 

Monday,  12th.  We  resumed  our  exploration  of  the 
city  of  Canton.  Strangers  have  not  the  freedom  of  the 
city,  though  there  is  much  more  liberty  now  than 
formerly.  However^  up  to  the  present  time,  foreigners 
venturing  too  far  up  into  the  city,  are  frequently  robbed, 
and  ratanned  through  the  streets.  The  recent  treaties 
w^hich  other  nations  have  made  with  China  since  the 
late  war,  provided  that  the  city  gates  should  be  thrown 
open  to  foreigners,  but  as  yet  the  people  of  Canton  are 
violently  opposed  to  such  a  desecration  of  their  ancient 
customs.  Keying,  the  imperial  commissioner  and  go- 
vernor general  of  the  province  of  Kwangtung,  caused  a 
proclamation  to  be  posted  up  in  the  city,  on  the  night  of 
the  12th,  informing  the  people  that  the  time  had  come 
when  the  conditions  of  the  treaty  in  reference  to  the 
freedom  of  the  city,  must  be  fulfilled,  and  cautioning 
the  people  against  molesting  any  foreigners  that  were 
disposed  to  enter  within  the  walls.  But  the  populace, 
supported  by  a  large  majority  of  the  wealthy  inhabitants 
of  the  city,  on  discovering  the  proclamation  on  the 
morning  of  the  13th,  tore  it  down  with  great  violence, 
rent  it  in  pieces,  and  stamped  it  in  the  mud.  Another 
proclamation,  purporting  to  be  from  the  wealthy  and 
virtuous  citizens  of  Canton,  was  put  up  in  its  place, 
which  threatened  death  to  any  foreigner  who  should  dare 
to  enter  within  the  gates.  Notwithstanding  the  excite- 
ment which  these  opposing  proclamations  produced,  we 
resolved  to  improve  the  short  time  we  had  to  stay,  in 
seeing  whatever  was  interesting,  within  the  undisputed 
range  of  the  barbarians. 

Tuesday,  13th.  Visited  the  ''Fatee,"  or  flower-gar- 
den, on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  above  the 
temple  of  Honan.  This  is  a  most  magnificent  garden, 
and  the  plants  are  all  grown  in  earthern  pots.  Here 
are  almost  an  infinite  variety  of  flowers,  and  several 
kinds  of  oranges,  which  are  also  grown  in  pots,  and 
which  line  the  different  alleys,  and  tempt  the  visitor  to 
violate  the  rules  of  the  garden,  by  disburdening  the 
loaded  plants  of  some  of  their  golden  fruit.  The 
Chinese,  better  than  any  other  nation,  perhaps,  under- 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA.  293 

Stand  the  art  of  dwarfing  trees  and  plants,  and  causing 
them  to  grow  in  any  shape  they  choose.  Here  may  be 
seen  orange  trees  from  one  foot  to  three  feet  high, 
standing  in  large  earthern  pots,  and  so  filled  with  fruit 
that  every  expedient  possible  is  entered  into  to  prevent 
them  from  breaking  down.  Here,  also,  is  a  shrub,  in 
appearance  similar  to  the  hawthorn,  which  the  Chinese 
cause  to  grow  in  the  exact  shape  of  a  pagoda,  a  junk,  an 
elephant,  a  bird,  or  any  thing  else,  according  as  their 
fancy  leads  them.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  regularity 
and  beauty  of  the  Fatee,  or  flower-garden  ;  and  it  was 
some  hours  after  we  entered,  before  we  were  able  to 
break  away  from  the  charm  which  the  multiflorous 
productions  of  this  delightful  garden  cast  around  us. 
Leaving  this  garden,  which  the  ingenuity  of  the  Chinese 
has  rendered  so  interesting,  we  re-crossed  the  Chookeang, 
and  visited  the  palace  of  Houqua,  situated  about  two 
miles  above  the  city  of  Canton.  The  house  is  splendid, 
purely  Chinese,  the  furniture  magnificent,  and  the  walls 
of  the  rooms  adorned  with  fine  Chinese  paintings.  It 
was  in  this  house  where  all  the  recent  treaties  with 
other  nations  were  signed. 

Wednesday,  14th.  Called  on  Drs.  Bridgeman  and 
Parker,  who  are  missionaries  of  the  American  Board. 
The  latter  has  accepted  an  appointment  under  the  United 
States'  government,  as  Chinese  interpreter,  with  a  salary 
of  three  thousand  dollars  per  annum.  He  has  been  in 
China  twelve  years;  has  estabUshed  a  hospital  for  the  ben- 
efit of  the  Chinese,  and  from  almost  innumerable  and  suc- 
cessful surgical  operations,  has  earned  an  enviable  repu- 
tation in  his  adopted  country.  With  the  former  I  had 
considerable  conversation  concerning  the  success  of 
missionary  operations  in  China,  and  found  him  to  be  any 
thing  but  sanguine  in  his  expectations,  but  hoping  to  see 
the  results  of  his  labors  after  many  days.  He  is  not  one 
of  those  fiery  spirits,  who,  from  the  excitement  of  the 
moment,  are  in  the  habit  of  blazing  forth  their  high 
wrought  accounts  of  the  work  of  God  in  heathen  lands, 
which  frequently  recoil  back  upon  their  authors,  and  the 
cause  they  are  designed  to  represent,  much  to  the  injury 


294  VOYAGE    TO    CHINA. 

of  both,  but  he  appears  to  take  a  sober,  candid  view  of 
the  great  w^ork  in  w^hich  he  is  engaged,  and  reaUzes  the 
fearful  responsibiUty  that  rests  upon  him.  He  has 
obtained  considerable  celebrity  by  pubHshing  several 
important  Chinese  works.  In  the  evening  called  on  Dr. 
Ball,  who  is  likewise  a  missionary  of  the  American 
Board,  and  appears  to  be  much  devoted  to  his  work. 

Thursday,  15th.  Explored  various  parts  of  the  city 
and  found  the  Chinese  very  much  excited  on  account 
of  the  proclamation  of  Keying,  in  which  he  ordered 
that  the  gates  of  Canton,  which  had  been  closed  for 
ages,  should,  for  the  first  time,  be  opened  to  the  barba- 
rians of  Europe  and  America. 

There  seemed  to  be  a  great  commotion  among  the 
populace,  and  it  was  anticipated  by  the  foreigners  that 
the  night  would  not  pass  away  without  some  outrage. 
Those^'who  are  opposed  to  the  order  of  the  governor 
call  themselves  "patriots,"  and  declare  that  the  barba- 
rians shall  not  enter  their  city  gates,  but  the  man  that 
dares  to  attempt  to  pass  the  sacred  inclosure,  shall  lose 
his  head.  At  midnight  a  portion  of  the  old  city  was 
illuminated  by  the  burning  of  the  house  of  the  mayor. 
A  mob  of  more  than  two  thousand  gathered  around  the 
house  of  this  functionary  with  the  design  of  consuming 
him  and  his  property  together.  Leaving  the  house 
through  a  private  passage,  he  escaped  their  fury,  and  in 
a  short  time  all  that  remained  of  his  princely  mansion 
was  a  heap  of  smouldering  ruins. 

Friday,  16th.  The  excitement  continued  to  rise,  and 
early  in  the  morning  the  foreign  factories,  particularly 
those  occupied  by  the  English,  were  invested  by  vast 
throngs  of  the  angry  Chinese,  and  the  English  were 
hourly  expecting  an  attack.  What  contributed  to  in- 
crease the  excitement  was,  the  expected  arrival  of  an 
English  steamboat  from  Hong  Kong,  to  receive  the  last 
payment  of  the  indemnity.  The  whole  amount  of  the 
indemnity  was  twenty  millions  of  dollars,  and  this  last 
payment  was  two  millions.  The  patriots  declare  that  it 
shall  not  be  paid,  and  that  if  the  authorities  attempt  to 
convey  it  out  of  the  city,  they  will  seize  upon  the  money 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA.  295 

and  burn  down  the  English  factories.  I  was  in  the 
factories  a  number  of  times  during  the  day,  and  found 
the  people  preparing  for  a  vigorous  defence,  expecting 
that  they  would  be  attacked  the  following  night,  and 
more  so  in  consequence  of  the  approach  of  the  Chinese 
new-year,  when  the  people  are  exceedingly  desirous  to 
obtain  money,  and  always  become  greatly  excited. 
About  noon  we  received  a  letter  from  the  gentlemen  to 
whom  the  Leland  was  consigned,  (Wetmore  &  Co.), 
advising  us,  as  our  vessel  would  be  ready  for  sea  Satur- 
day evening,  to  join  her  without  delay,  for  fear  an 
immediate  outbreak  would  greatly  endanger,  if  not 
entirely  close  the  communication  between  Canton  and 
Whampoa,  where  our  vessel  lay.  With  much  effort,  in 
the  midst  of  great  excitement,  we  succeeded  in  getting 
ready  to  leave  at  sundown,  and  consequently  we  had 
the  pleasure  of  a  night-excursion  on  the  Chookeang 
from  Canton  to  Whampoa,  the  distance  of  twelve  miles. 

Though  there  is  considerable  danger  in  navigating 
these  w^aters  in  the  night  time  from  thieves  and  pirates, 
which  here  abound  in  vast  numbers,  yet,  at  ten  o'clock 
we  arrived  along  side  the  Leland  without  accident,  and, 
though  we  were  literally  thrust  out  of  the  city,  yet 
we  were  glad  to  find  ourselves  once  more  on  board  the 
vessel  destmed  to  convey  us  to  our  native  land. 

Sunday,  18th.  Had  an  engagement  to  preach  on 
board  the  Rainbow  that  had  just  arrived  from  New 
York  ;  but  was  prevented  from  going  on  account  of  the 
rain.  When  vessels  are  ready  for  sea,  the  captains  never 
wait  for  Monday  ;  consequently  in  the  afternoon  our 
ship  weighed  anchor,  and  dropped  down  the  river  a  few 
miles  ;  but  at  dark,  again  came  to  anchor  to  await  the 
arrival  of  Mr.  Finlay  from  Canton.  About  midnight 
Mr.  Finlay  arrived,  and  reported  that  the  excitement 
still  continued  at  Canton,  and  that  the  foreigners  were 
hourly  expecting  a  furious  outbreak  ;  but  we  congratu- 
lated ourselves,  that  before  it  took  place  we  should  be 
"  far  away  on  the  billows."  • 

Monday,  19th.     Before  a  fine  breeze  we  sailed  down 


296  VOYAGE    TO    CHINA. 

the  Canton  river,  passing  the  United  States  frigate 
Vincennes,  and  the  Hne-of-battle  ship  Columbus.  These 
vessels  have  recently  arrived  in  China,  and  the  com- 
manding officer,  Commodore  Biddle,  is  authorized,  on 
the  part  of  the  United  States,  to  act  as  minister  to  the 
Chinese  government.  These  vessels  are  both  moving 
up  the  river  for  the  purpose  of  being  ready  to  act  in 
defence  of  any  American  interests  which  may  be  in- 
volved in  the  insurrectional  movements  at  Canton.  It  is 
also  said  that  Gov.  Davies,  in  case  of  any  outbreak,  will 
send  the  soldiers  who  are  quartered  at  Hong  Hong,  up 
the  river,  to  assist  the  Chinese  authorities  against  the 
insurgents. 

Captain  Skill ington,  of  the  Leland,  having  discharged 
his  steward  and  cook,  we  found  it  necessary  to  return 
to  Hong  Kong,  for  the  purpose  of  supplying  their  places. 
Accordingly,  at  six  o'clock,  p.  m.,  we  cast  anchor  again 
in  the  bay  of  Hong  Kong,  about  four  miles  from  shore. 
It  was  impossible  for  the  captain  to  accomplish  his 
objects  here  w^ithout  spending  the  whole  of  Tuesday, 
and  this  gave  us  an  opportunity  to  take  a  more  formal 
leave  of  our  newly  made  friends  in  this  place. 

Before  taking  our  final  departure  from  the  coast  of 
the  Celestial  Empire,  it  wall  be  proper  to  make  some 
observations  concerning  a  few  things  which  have  not 
yet  been  exhibited,  but  which  cannot  fail  to  strike  the 
foreigner  with  considerable  interest. 

The  first  I  shall  mention  is  the  antiquated  appearance 
of  every  thing  that  presents  itself.  While  the  nations 
of  Europe  and  America  are  moving  onward  from  one 
improvement  to  another,  with  unexampled  celerity,  and 
attracting  universal  admiration  as  well  as  conferring 
incalculable  good  upon  the  world,  the  Chinese  seldom 
advance  a  step  beyond  the  customs,  habits  and  fashions 
which  characterized  their  remotest  ancestors  ;  and  they 
have  been  equally  slow  in  adopting  any  of  the  usages 
and  improvements  of  "distant  foreigners."  Architect- 
ure, agriculture,  costume,  and  all  the  arts  and  sciences, 
remain  in  China,  as  the  lawyers  say,  "m  statu  quof 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA.  291 

and  this  inertia  of  every  thing  is  not  only  a  prominent 
characteristic  of  the  Chinese,  but  constitutes  a  subject  in 
which  they  glory. 

Another  thing  vv^hich  strikes  the  foreigner  is  the 
astonishing  contrariety  to  what  he  has  been  taught  as 
proper,  which  appears  in  the  habits  and  occupations  of 
the  Chinese.  We  have  considered  the  right,  as  the 
place  of  honor,  but  the  Chinese  give  pi^ecedence  to  the 
left.  Black  is  considered  by  the  nations  of  the  west  as 
the  3.ppropriate  badge  of  mourning,  but  in  the  estimation 
of  the  Chinese,  there  is  nothing  so  proper  as  white. 

The  Chinese  do  not  number  the  cardinal  points  in  our 
order,  but  always  mention  the  south  before  the  north, 
and  the  west  before  the  east ;  thus,— south,  north,  west 
and  east.  And  instead  of  saying  north-west,  south-west, 
as  we  do,  they  say  west-north,  west-south,  &c.  The 
compass  of  the  Chinese,  instead  of  pointing  to  the  north, 
is  so  constructed  as  to  point  to  the  south.  This  contra- 
riety appears  in  many  other  particulars,  and  the  fact  of 
its  existence  brings  one  to  the  conclusion  that  we  are 
not  to  estimate  the  Chinese  by  the  criterion  of  European 
taste  and  usage. 

A  third  subject  of  interest  to  foreigners  on  entering 
the  cities  of  China,  is  the  numerous  manufactories  and 
trades  in  operation,  wherever  he  goes.  Properly  speak- 
ing, there  is  no  machinery  in  the  country  ;  consequently 
no  such  extensive  manufactui'ing  establishments  as  in 
Europe  and  America.  In  consequence  of  the  absence 
of  all  kinds  of  machinery  calculated  to  lessen  the  amount 
of  manual  labor,  the  number  of  hands  employed  in 
carrying  forward  the  different  trades  is  truly  immense. 
A  great  proportion  of  the  manufacturing  business  re- 
quired to  supply  the  commercial  houses  of  Canton,  is 
performed  at  Fuhshan,  a  large  town  situated  a  few  miles 
westward.  Still,  the  amount  accomplished  in  Canton,  is 
by  no  means  inconsiderable.  There  are  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  thousand  persons  engaged  in  Canton  in  weaving 
silk  ;  fifty  thousand  in  manufacturing  cloth  of  different 
kinds  ;  five  thousand  shoemakers  ;  from  seven  thousand 

13 


398  t^OYAGE    Td    CBINA, 

to  ten  thousand  barbers,  besides  an  unnumbered  multi» 
tude  who  work  in  wood,  brass,  iron^  stone^  and  various 
other  materials,  too  numerous  to  mention. 

Those  who  engage  in  each  of  these  respective  occu- 
pations, form  a  separate  community,— each  community 
having  its  own  laws  and  regulations  to  control  their 
business. 

On  ascending  the  Chookeang  river  from  Macao  to 
Canton,  nothing  interests  the  foreigner  so  much  as  the 
vast  number  and  almost  endless  variety  of  boats  by 
which  he  is  constantly  surrounded  ;  every  boat  forming 
a  habitation  for  one  family,  or  more,  according  to  its 
dimensions  and  the  wealth  of  the  occupants.  There 
are  officers  appointed  by  the  government  to  regulate 
and  control  this  portion  of  the  inhabitants ;  consequently 
all  the  boats,  of  the  various  sizes  and  descriptions  which 
are  seen  here,  are  registered.  The  number  adjacent 
and  belonging  to  the  city  of  Canton  is  eighty-four  thou- 
sand. A  large  proportion  of  these  are  what  the  Chinese 
call  Tankea  (egg-house)  boats.  These  are  very  small, 
varying  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  long,  and  from  four  to 
six  feet  broad.  In  large  coops  lashed  to  the  outside  of 
these  boats,  are  reared  large  broods  of  ducks  and  chick- 
ens, designed  for  the  city  markets,  while  within  them 
whole  families  live  and  die.  These,  together  with  the 
passage  boats,  ferry  boats,  canal  boats^  pleasure  boats, 
cruisers,  &lc.,  complete  the  hst  of  these  floating  habita- 
tions, and  constitute  a  permanent  dwelling  place  for  a 
population  of  three  hundred  thousand  souls  ! 

Another  subject  of  interest  to  the  stranger  visiting 
China,  is  found  in  the  piratical  character  of  many  of  the 
Chinese  inhabiting  the  numerous  islands,  which  consti- 
tute an  extensive  archipelago  along  the  coast  of  the 
Chinese  sea.  Among  these  islands,  piracies  and  rob- 
beries are  of  frequent  occurrence.  During  our  stay  at 
Canton,  an  English  vessel  was  attacked,  almost  within 
hailing  distance  of  Macao.  The  pirates  boarded  her, 
after  having  cleared  the  decks  of  her  crew,  by  killing 
one  and  causing  the  others  to  take  refuge  in  the  hold. 


VOYAGE    TO    CHINA.  299 

and  rifling  her  of  all  that  would  be  valuable  to  them, 
made  their  escape.  These  pirates  often  combine  in 
large  numbers,  and  attack  large  commercial  houses ; 
nor  are  they  discriminating,  but  fall  alike  upon  those 
belonging  both  to  Chinese  and  foreigners.  The  school- 
house  belonging  to  the  Morrison  Education  Society, 
situated  on  Morrison  Hill,  and  occupied  by  Rev.  S.  R. 
Brown  and  family,  was,  a  short  time  ago,  captured  by  a 
band  of  them  in  the  night,  the  family  escaping  from  one 
side,  while  the  robbers  were  entering  on  the  other. 
They  were  in  possession  of  the  house  for  several  hours, 
and  finally  escaped  with  their  booty  to  their  island 
fastnesses.  Soon  after  this  occurrence  they  made  an 
attempt  upon  an  English  house  situated  at  the  west  end 
of  the  city  of  Victoria.  Prepared  with  their  scaling 
ladders,  as  their  habit  was,  they  mounted  the  building 
in  large  numbers,  and  while  in  the  act  of  removing  the 
tiling  so  that  they  could  descend  into  the  building,  a 
charge  of  grape  from  a  six  pounder  mounted  on  a 
neighboring  eminence,  was  poured  into  them,  and  two 
of  their  number  rolled  like  logs  from  the  roof  to  the 
ground,  and  the  remainder  took  to  flight. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


Voyage  from  Hong  Kong  to  New  York  —  Chinese  Sea  —  Islands  —  Strait  of  Gasper 

—  Java  Sea  —  Strait  of  Sunda  —  Perilous  condition  of  the  Leland  —  Loss  of 
cable  and  anchor  —  Ship   saved  —  Sumatra  and  Java  —  Pulo    Bassa  —  Malays 

—  Indian  Ocean  —  Cape  of  Good  Hope  —  Cast  anchor  in  Table  Bay  —  Cape 
Town  —  Colony  —  Vineyards  —  Produce  —  Missionary  labor  —  The  responsibility 
of  churches  —  Difficulty  on  board  —  Captain  "fined  —  His  charact»r  —  The 
supercargo  —  Mrs.  Hooper  —  Adieu  to  Africa  —  Cleansing  the  ship  —  Man 
overboard  —  Splendid  eclipse  of  the  sun  ^  Reflections  —  The  Gulf  stream  — 
Coast  of  New  Jersey  —  New  York. 

On  Wednesday  morning,  the  21st  of  January,  at  four 
o'clock,  our  sails  were  again  spread  to  the  breeze,  and 
bidding  adieu  to  the  granite  mountains  of  the  Celestial 
Empire,  we  shaped  our  course  towards  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope.  We  had  a  remarkably  pleasant  time  in 
sailing  down  the  Chinese  Sea,  though  this  is  reported  as 
the  most  dangerous  navigation  in  the  world.  Multitudes 
of  vessels,  through  the  effects  of  the  ty-phongs,  have 
either  been  foundered  in  this  sea,  or  dashed  to  pieces  on 
some  of  the  numerous  shoals  with  which  these  waters 
abound.  But  happily  for  us,  this  is  not  the  season  of  ty- 
phongs,  but  the  north-east  monsoon  blows  steadily,  in  a 
seven  knot  breeze,  and  renders  the  sailing  most  de- 
lightful. 

We  made  several  islands  on  our  passage  down  the 
sea,  some  of  which  are .  inhabited  by  Malays.  The 
islands  appeared  beautiful,  being  mostly  covered  with 
verdure  ;  and  surrounded  by  the  watery  waste,  resem- 
bled the  oasis  of  the  Arabian  desert. 

Arriving  at  the  entrance  of  the  Strait  of  Gasper  in 
the  evening,  we  were  obliged  to  come  to  anchor,  and 
wait  for  the  light  of  morning  to  conduct  us  through  it. 
This  strait  connects  the  Chinese  with  the  Java  Sea,  and 


TO    NEW    YORK.  301 

IS  full  of  rocks  and  shoals,  which  render  the  navigation 
dangerous,  especially  in  the  night. 

It  was  on  a  rock  in  this  strait,  where  the  Alcesta,  an 
English  frigate,  was  wrecked,  with  Lord  Amherst  on 
board.  The  vessel  was  a  total  loss,  but  the  people  took 
to  the  boats,  and  all  succeeded  in  crossing  the  Java  Sea 
to  Batavia,  on  the  island  of  Java,  the  distance  of  three 
hundred  miles.  In  passing  through  the  strait  we  were 
not  conscious  of  a  very  great  proximity  to  danger,  but 
delighted  ourselves  with  the  beautiful  prospect  presented 
by  the  numerous  islands,  rocks,  and  birds  upon  the  wing, 
by  which  the  scenery  was  diversified. 

A  fine  breeze  wafted  us  quickly  across  the  Java  Sea, 
and  on  Sunday,  the  first  of  February,  we  entered  the 
strait  of  Sunda.  Having  a  fair  wind,  we  attempted  to 
run  directly  through,  though  the  captain  was  aware 
that  we  would  have  to  contend  with  counter  currents. 
Suddenly  the  wind  left  us,  and  we  found  ourselves 
drifting  broad  side  on  to  an  island  which  was  but  a 
little  distance  from  us.  Before  the  men  could  get  the 
anchor  ready  for  letting  go,  such  was  the  rapidity  of 
the  current,  that  we  had  approached  within  a  few  rods 
of  the  shore,  and  some  of  us  expected  every  moment 
that  the  vessel  would  strike,  as  she  was  carried  towards 
the  point  of  the  island  at  the  rate  of  five  knots.  Our 
only  hope  was  in  the  anchor,  which  fortunately  was  let 
go  just  in  time  to  prevent  the  vessel  from  running 
aground.  Chain  was  ''  paid  out "  freely,  to  prevent  the 
anchor  from  dragging,  and  when  we  found  that  the 
anchor  held,  and  had  time  to  view  the  place,  the  captain 
observed  that  we  might  think  ourselves  well  off  if  we 
got  away  from  that  spot  by  losing  our  anchor  and  cable. 
The  current  dashed  past  us  with  astonishing  force,  and 
would  have  carried  us  to  inevitable  destruction,  if  our 
anchor  had  not  held  us  fast. 

Though  the  weather  was  calm  and  pleasant,  we 
passed  here  an  uncomfortable  night,  in  consequence  of 
our  dangerous  position.  We  were  within  a  stone's  cast 
of  the  shore,  and  as  our  vessel  swung  to  the  current,  it 
was  but  a  short  distance  from  our  stern  to  where  the 


302  VOYAGE  PROM  HONG  KONG 

water  rushed  furiously  on  to  rocks  which  were  imbed- 
ded below  the  surface,  and  formed  eddies  and  whirlpools 
truly  frightful  to  contemplate.  But  our  cable  was  strong, 
and  our  anchor  held  firm,  so  that  on  the  following 
morning  we  had  changed  our  position  but  a  few  rods, 
the  current  having  caused  the  anchor  to  drag  but  a 
short  distance  ^towards  the  land.  Happily  for  us,  a 
breeze  sprung  up  on  Monday,  quartering  from  the  shore, 
and  against  the  current ;  but,  though  thus  favored,  we 
did  not  dare  to  raise  the  anchor  ;  consequently,  a  spring 
was  fixed  upon  it,  and  it  was  determined  to  make  all 
sail,  slip  the  cable,  and  leave  the  anchor  where  it  lay. 
This  appeared  to  be  the  only  alternative,  and,  at  all 
events,  it  succeeded.  The  vessel,  after  trembling  a  few 
moments  against  the  current,  began  gradually  to  move 
before  the  freshening  breeze,  and  as  we  turned  partly 
across  the  current  to  get  away  from  the  land,  the  spring 
cable  snapped  asunder,  and  we  were  quickly  borne  by 
the  timely  breeze  to  a  safe  distance  from  our  dangerous 
moorings. 

Again  in  the  centre  of  the  strait  of  Sunda,  steering 
our  course  towards  the  island  of  Pulo  Bassa,  which  lay 
in  sight,  we  felt  called  upon  to  offer  up  a  tribute  of 
thanksgiving  to  that  merciful  Providence  who  had  de- 
livered us  from  the  imminent  danger  by  which  we  had 
been  surrounded. 

Navigators,  in  passing  through  the  strait  of  Sunda, 
have  to  guard  against  shoals,  rocks  and  currents  ;  and 
often  head  winds  detain  vessels  here  for  many  days 
before  they  can  get  through.  At  the  entrance  of  the 
strait,  we  overtook  two  English  vessels,  which  ap- 
peared to  be  feeling  their  way  along,  with  the  utmost 
care.  One  of  them  came  to  anchor  near  the  islands 
called  the  Twin  Sisters,  and  while  we  lay  in  our  dan- 
gerous position,  she  weighed  anchor,  and  showed  us  her 
English  colors  as  she  passed. 

This  strait  divides  the  islands  of  Sumatra  and  Java. 
The  former  is  inhabited  by  Malays,  and  is  the  scene 
where  the  missionaries,  Lyman  and  Monson,  met  their 
tragical  death.     The  coast  is  low  and  flat  in  some  places, 


TO    NEW    YORK.  303 

in  others,  hilly.  The  islaed  presents  the  appearance  of 
great  fertility. 

Java  presents  a  more  uneven  surface,  and,  as  seen  from 
the  strait,  does  not  appear  so  fertile.  The  Dutch  are  its 
possessors.  Batavia  and  Algier  are  places  of  conside- 
rable importance.  This  island  is  well  situated  for 
commerce,  and,  but  for  its  deathly  climate,  it  would 
doubtless  prosper  more  rapidly. 

Beside  these,  are  several  small  islands  about  the  strait, 
which  altogether  present  a  very  agreeable  prospect. 

As  the  wind  did  not  favor  us  for  clearing  Java  Head, 
on  the  second,  we  put  in  towards  Sumatra,  and  came  to 
anchor  under  the  lee  of  Pulo  Bassa,  which  is  a  high 
circular  island,  and,  with  two  or  three  other  islands  of 
the  same  character,  and  the  highlands  on  the  island  of 
Sumatra,  forms  a  good  shelter  from  the  north-west 
winds.  On  coming  to  anchor,  the  wind,  which  had 
been  hardly  sufficient  to  enable  us  to  gain  our  harbor, 
entirely  died  away  ;  and,  as  the  sea  was  smooth,  we 
were  here  permitted  to  spend  a  quiet  night,  which  is  a 
great  luxury  at  sea. 

The  islands  around  us  were  inhabited  by  Malays,  a 
number  of  whom  came  off  with  shells,  turtles,  banannas, 
•&C.,  to  trade  with  us.  We  purchased  all  they  brought, 
and  found  that  money  was  the  object  of  their  principal 
desire,  and  that  they  well  understood  its  value.  Those 
that  came  to  us  v/ere  very  brown,  dwarfish  and  filthy 
objects,  and  their  teeth  were  as  black  as  ebony,  occa- 
sioned, probably,  by  their  use  of  beetle-nuts,  as  an  article 
of  food. 

On  the  morning  of  the  3rd  of  February,  we  weighed 
anchor,  and  were  soon  out  of  sight  of  land,  amidst  the 
solitudes  of  the  Indian  ocean. 

For  a  few  of  the  first  days,  after  leaving  the  islands, 
we  made  but  slow  progress,  on  account  of  baffling 
winds.  On  the  fourth  day,  however,  we  secured  the 
south-east  trade,  which  continued,  with  little  variation, 
until  we  approached  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

On  our  leaving  China,  it  was  the  intention  of  Mr. 
Finlay^  the  supercargo,  to  stop  at  St«  Helena,  to  procure 


304  VOYAGE  FROM  HONG  KONG 

water  and  fresh  provisions  ^  but,  through  the  recom- 
mendation of  the  captain,  it  v^^as  finally  determined  to  stop 
at  Cape  Town.  Consequently,  on  approaching  the  lati- 
tude of  the  Cape,  we  hauled  up  towards  land,  and  the 
eastern  coast  of  Africa,  with  its  high  mountains  and 
barren  sands,  appeared  on  our  right,  about  one  hundred 
miles  north  of  the  southern  extremity  of  the  continent. 
The  most  southern  point  of  land  is  not  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  as  is  generally  supposed,  but  a  low  point 
about  thirty  miles  south-east  of  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  called  Cape  Lagullus.  Hence  the  soundings, 
which  here  extend  far  into  the  ocean,  are  called  "La- 
gullus Banks." 

We  reached  these  banks  the  day  before  we  made 
land,  and  the  appearance  of  the  grampus,  •  cape  geese, 
and  other  aquatic  animals,  which  there  abound,  presented 
an  agreeable  diversion  from  the  tedious  monotony  of  a 
voyage  of  five  thousand  miles  across  the  Indian  ocean. 

During  thirty-five  days  there  was  scarcely  an  object 
appeared  to  attract  attention,  though  we  were  sailing 
over  that  part  of  the  great  deep  where  some  of  the 
principal  scenes  of  the  "  Flying  Dutchman  "  were  laid. 
However,  we  were  gravely  told  by  our  captain,  that, 
even  to  this  day,  there  occasionally  appears  a  full-rigged 
ship,  hull  and  all,  above  water,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope,  answering  to  the  description  of  the  Flying 
Dutchman  ;  and  he  averred,  that  he  had  often  seen  it 
himself,  notwithstanding  the  assurance  of  Captain  Marry^ 
att,  that  the  "  Phantom  Ship  is  no  more." 

The  day  we  doubled  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  was  a 
remarkably  pleasant  one,  and  we  sailed  along  in  full 
view  of  the  coast  during  the  whole  day.  When  we 
arrived  off  the  Cape,  we  were  within  three  miles  of 
land,  and  every  object  on  shore  could  be  distinctly  seen 
from  the  ship's  deck.  We  had  a  splendid  breeze  in 
passing  around,  and  we  left  in  our  rear,  in  quick  succes- 
sion, Cape  Point,  Gurner's  Coin,  and  English  Point,  and 
rounding  to,  to  enter  the  harbor  of  Cape  Town,  we 
fell  under  the  lee  of  the  high  lands  of  the  coast,  where 
we  lost  our  wind,  and  within  sight  of  the  town,  harbor, 


TO    NEW    YORK.  305 

shipping,  light-house,  and  the  American  Consulate,  where 
the  stars  and  stripes  were  fluttering  in  the  breeze,  we 
lay  in  a  dead  calm  till  the  following  morning.  A  gentle 
breeze  arose  with  the  sun,  and  bore  us  into  the  quiet 
bosom  of  Table  Bay,  on  the  shore  of  which  is  situated 
the  beautiful  and  picturesque  city  known  by  the  name  of 
Cape  Town.  ' 

Our  stay  here  was  only  a  day  and  a  half,  but  we  im- 
proved the  time  in  examining  every  thing  interesting  in 
and  about  the  place.  The  town  is  quite  beautiful,  and 
seems  to  be  more  active  and  animated  than  any  other 
English  town  I  have  ever  seen. 

It  is  built  on  an  inclined  plain,  which  extends  from  the 
base  of  Table  Mountain  to  the  waters  of  the  bay,  the 
distance  of  one  mile  and  a  half. 

The  streets  are  broad  and  regular,  crossing  each  other 
at  right  angles,  but  without  side-walks  ;  a  singular  defi- 
ciency in  a  town  where  walking  seems  to  be  fashionable 
with  all  classes.  Coaches  appear  to  be  numerous,  and 
it  is  here  that  a  stranger  can  judge  of  the  quality  of  an 
individual,  and  the  amount  of  his  income,  from  the 
splendor  of  his  riding  equipage.  Here  may  be  seen  the 
rough  cart,  drawn  by  a  mule,  the  common  buggy, 
coach  and  one,  coach  and  two,  coach  and  four,  coach 
and  six.  I  saw  some  of  the  latter  class,  with  the  coach 
and  harness  mounted  with  gold ;  but  as  I  heard  the 
sound  of  weeping  issue  from  one  of  the  coaches,  I  was 
reminded  that  misery  is  closely  allied  to  opulence  and 
grandeur. 

To  make  up  for  the  deficiency  of  suitable  walks  in  the 
city,  the  Anglo  Africans,  a  little  distance  out  of  town, 
have  a  number  of  the  most  beautifully  shaded  prome- 
nades, which,  for  all  the  elite  of  the  place,  are  very 
fashionable  as  well  as  very  pleasant  resorts.  Doubtless 
the  present  occupants  of  Cape  Town  are  indebted  to  the 
Dutch  for  a  great  many  of  the  comforts  and  luxuries 
which  they  now  enjoy  ;  particularly  the  delightful  gar- 
dens and  shaded  walks,  which  render  Cape  Town  a 
very  pleasant  place. 

There  are  a  number  of  elegant  buildings  in  the  city  ; 
13* 


306  VOYAGE  FROM  HONG  KONG 

but  there  appeared  to  be  but  few  now  being  erected, 
which  shows  that  the  place  is  at  a  stand.  Churches 
abound,  and  the  principal  are  the  Episcopal,  Lutheran 
and  We-sleyan.  There  are  three  or  four  of  the  latter, 
but,  from  the  shortness  of  our  stay,  I  could  not  particu- 
larly inform  myself  in  regard  to  the  state  of  religion  in 
the  colony. 

The  number  of  inhabitants  in  Cape  Colony,  embracing 
all  ranks  and  colors,  is  about  fifty  thousand ;  thirty 
thousand  of  whom  reside  in  Cape  Town. 

As  in  all  foreign  countries  that  have  been  colonized  by 
Europeans,  where  the  native  inhabitants  are  colored, 
the  people  of  Cape  Town  present  all  possible  shades  of 
complexion.  Those,  however,  who  share  in  the  blood 
of  the  Hottentot,  it  is  presumed,  are  not  admitted  into 
the  higher  classes  of  society,  but  many  of  them,  espe- 
cially among  the  brunettes,  possess  remarkably  fine 
forms  and  features,  and,  in  the  streets  of  Cape  Town, 
and  on  the  different  promenades,  present  a  very  respect- 
able appearance. 

It  is  well  known  that  the  Dutch  were  the  first  Eu- 
ropeans that  gained  a  footing  in  south  Africa  ;  and  Cape 
Town,  as  well  as  the  surrounding  country,  presents 
many  evidences  of  the  taste  and  enterprise  of  their  first 
civilized  inhabitants.  The  beautiful  groves  already 
spoken  of,  some  of  which  are  a  mile  in  extent,  are  all 
artificial,  and  composed  of  a  species  of  black  oak.  The 
trees  have  been  collected  with  great  labor,  and  planted 
in  regular  rows,  and  so  near  together  that  their  boughs 
intermingle  over  head,  so  as  to  form  a  dense  shade  at  all 
times  of  day.  Doubtless  the  naturally  destitute  condi- 
tion of  the  country,  as  it  regards  timber,  and  the  desire 
to  screen  themselves  from  the  burning  heat  of  the  sun, 
prompted  the  first  settlers  to  form  these  artificial  forests. 

Be  this  as  it  may,  they  are  used  by  the  present  popu- 
lation as  a  great  luxury.  We  had  an  opportunity  to 
judge  of  their  utility  from  personal  experience.  As  we 
rambled  through  the  town,  we  found  the  heat  of  the 
sun  exceedingly  oppressive  ;  but  coming  to  a  gate  which 
opened  into  one  of  these  retreats,  we  walked  in,  and 


TO    NEW    YORK*  307 

found  ourselves  in  an  atmosphere  truly  refreshing.  In 
the  centre  of  the  grove  which  we  explored,  and  which 
is  ahout  one  mile  long,  is  the  residence  of  the  governor 
of  the  Colony,  and,  as  we  passed,  we  observed  that  the 
gateway  leading  to  the  palace  was  guarded  by  two  huge 
lions.  Nothing  can  appear  more  rural  than  the  govern- 
or's seat,  though  within  one-half  mile  of  the  tumult  of 
the  busy  town. 

Within  the  precincts  of  the  town,  as  well  as  round 
about,  vineyards  abound.  The  raising  of  grapes  appears 
to  be  one  of  the  principal  pursuits  of  the  people,  the 
Dutch  }X)rtion  of  the  population  in  particular.  The 
grapes  are  of  various  kinds,  and  exceedingly  fine,  some 
of  them  comparing  in  size  with  the  green  gage-plum. 
They  are  used,  as  in  other  countries  where  they  abound, 
for  the  manufacture  of  wines  and  raisins.  These  arti- 
cles of  commerce  are  sent  to  Europe  and  America, 
annually,  in  great  abundance,  and  are  known  as  Cape 
wines  and  Cape  raisins.  We  were  in  one  of  the  estab- 
lishments where  they  are  manufactured,  and  from  the 
specimens,  of  wines  which  were  there  shown,  it  is  not 
difficult  to  believe  that  nine-tenths  of  the  stuff  sold  and 
drank,  in  the  name  of  wine,  in  civilized  countries,  are 
entirely  spurious.  The  raisins,  though  of  a  good  quality, 
will  not  compare  with  the  Malaga,  and  some  other  kinds. 
We  were  conducted  to  a  room  where  the  negroes  were 
packing  raisins,  and  observed  that  they  would  first  fill 
the  boxes,  and  then  spread  a  piece  of  cloth  over  the 
raisins  and  trample  them  in  with  their  feet.  Apples, 
also,  and  pears,  abound  in  the  city,  and  are  of  a  good 
quality.  They  grow  mostly  in  the  interior,  but  are 
always  to  be  found  in  the  market,  as  also  potatoes, 
onions  and  other  vegetables,  for  the  accommodation  of 
ships. 

As  it  regards  the  civil  state  of  the  country,  all  was 
quiet  and  prospering  around  the  Cape,  but  in  conse- 
quence of  the  threatening  aspect  of  things  among  the 
Bushmen,  the  soldiers  that  were  quartered  at  Cape  Town 
have  all  been  sent  off  to  the  frontiers,  and  it  is  expected 


308  VOYAGE  FROM  HONG  KONG 

that  their  presence  in  that  region  will  keep  every  thing 
quiet. 

The  American  Consul,  who  appears  to  be  truly  a  reli- 
gious man,  gave  us  the  following  information,  with 
respect  to  the  results  of  missionary  labor  in  Cape 
Colony  :  Large  numbers  of  the  native  inhabitants,  in 
various  places,  had  professed  to  be  converted,  but  very 
few  had  continued,  for  any  length  of  time,  to  give  evi- 
dence of  a  genuine  change  of  heart.  Indeed,  it  appears 
to  be  the  case  in  Africa,  as  well  as  in  other  heathen 
countries,  that  it  is  much  easier  to  get  the  people  con- 
verted than  it  is  to  keep  them  so.  Though  the  good 
accomplished  for  the  natives  may  be  limited,  yet  mis- 
sionary labor,  in  such  a  place  as  Cape  Colony,  is  vastly 
important,  in  securing  the  well-being  of  foreign  residents, 
and  in  giving  a  correct  tone  to  the  moral  state  of  society. 

However  elevated  human  nature  may  become  through 
the  influence  of  science,  truth  and  correct  example,  it 
has  a  natural  tendency  downwards,  which  will  always 
exhibit  itself  in  proportion  as  the  restraints  of  religion 
cease  to  be  felt.  Governments  seldom  supply  their 
colonies  with  that  kind  and  amount  of  religious  influence 
necessary  to  preserve  a  wholesome  moral  atmosphere  in 
society.  This  must  be  done  by  the  church  of  Christ  ; 
and  it  is  only  necessary  for  Christians  to  understand  the 
true  condition  of  those  countries  which  are  being  re- 
deemed from  barbai'ism  by  the  settlement  of  colonies 
from  civilized  and  Christian  nations,  to  induce  them  to 
use  their  best  endeavors  to  supply  them  with  all  the 
necessary  means  for  religious  instruction. 

Foreigners,  Europeans  and  Americans,  are  found  in  all 
heathen  countries,  where  they  have  settled  for  the  pur- 
pose of  accumulating  money  ;  and,  generally,  the  mis- 
sionary will  succeed  with  the  heathen  in  proportion  to  the 
degree  of  influence  he  is  able  to  throw  around  the  con- 
duct of  foreign  residents.  Vicious  foreigners,  residing 
among  the  heathen,  may,  by  a  few  weeks  or  even  days 
of  wickedness,  destroy  the  religious  efforts  of  many 
years  ;    and   these  are  the   characters  with  whom    the 


TO    NEW    YORK.  309 

missionary  must  come, in  contact  in  all  parts  of  the 
world  ;  and  this  may  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  greatest 
hindrances  to  his  success. 

The  ship  having  procured  its  supplies  of  fresh  pro- 
visions and  water,  and  ourselves  having  purchased  a 
suitable  quantity  of  apples,  pears  and  fresh  grapes,  for 
our  own  private  use,  on  Friday  evening,  the  14th  of 
March,  we  weighed  anchor,  to  resume  our  homeward 
voyage  ;  but,  for  the  want  of  a  breeze,  we  did  not  suc- 
ceed in  getting  out  of  Table  Bay,  until  the  following 
morning.  Before  leaving,  a  circumstance  happened 
illustrative  of  the  character  of  the  captain,  under  whose 
rule  we  lived  for  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  days. 
He  had  shipped  a  sailor  at  Hong  Kong,  but  in  conse- 
quence of  a  disagreement  about  the  price,  the  sailor,  who 
was  a  smart,  active  Italian,  had  not  signed  any  bonds, 
and  consequently  considered  that  he  had  a  right  to  leave 
the  vessel  at  the  Cape,  if  he  was  so  disposed.  He  ac- 
cordingly informed  the  captain  that  he  wished  to  settle 
with  him,  as  he  designed  to  leave.  The  captain,  having 
had  a  grudge  against  him  ever  since  the  first  difficulty, 
became  now  exceedingly  enraged,  at  what  he  called  the 

" scoundrel's  insolence,"  and,  seizing  a  belaying- 

pin,  struck  the  sailor  in  the  forehead,  and,  but  for  the 
rigging,  the  latter  would  have  fallen  to  the  deck.  He 
gathered  himself,  however,  and,  rising  upon  his  feet, 
with  his  face  covered  with  blood,  very  properly  up- 
braided the  infuriated  captain,  for  the  cruelty  of  his 
conduct. 

The  captain  had  had  a  similar  difficulty  with  a  seaman 
at  Hong  Kong,  whom  he  chased  all  over  the  deck  of  the 
vessel,  unmercifully  pounding  him  with  a  belaying-pin, 
subsequently  causing  him  to  be  put  in  irons,  and  flogged. 
The  seaman,  after  being  discharged,  entered  a  complaint 
against  the  captain,  before  the  Consul,  and,  (as  the  cap- 
tain told  Mrs.  Hooper,)  recovered  damages  of  him  to  the 
amount  of  one  hundred  dollars,  which,  the  captain  said,  he 
*'  walked  up  and  paid  like  a  man."  For  fear  of  meeting 
with  a  similar  retribution  at  Cape  Town,  for  his  cruel 
treatment  of  the  defenceless  Italian,  he  detained  a  boat 


ailO  VOYAGE  FROM  HONG  KONG 

along  side,  and  kept  the  sailor  on  board  of  the  vessel  till 
we  v^^ere  well  under  way  ;  and  when  he  supposed  that 
we  were  so  far  away  that  there  was  no  danger  of  being 
pursued,  he  sent  the  sailor  into  the  boat,  to  be  taken 
ashore.  As  the  Italian  was  leaving  the  deck,  his  com- 
rades saluted  him  by  saying,  "  there  goes  the  best  sailor 
we  had  among  us." 

Notwithstanding  these  objectionable  traits  in  his  cha- 
racter, our  captain  is  an  excellent  navigator  ;  he  appears 
perfectly  at  home  on  the  vessel,  and  is  more  laborious 
than  any  other  captain  I  have  ever  seen.  While  I  have 
no  occasion  to  find  fault  with  his  course  in  reference  to 
myself  and  family,  I  can  speak  in  high  commendation  of 
his  conduct  towards  Mrs.  Hooper  and  her  children.  He 
was  particularly  attentive  to  their  wants,  while  he  was 
hberal  with  all  the  passengers  on  board  ;  and  but  for 
strong  drink,  that  great  spoiler  of  humanity,  he  would 
be  one  of  the  safest  captains  that  sail  upon  the  ''great 
deep." 

From  our  experience  on  this  vessel,  I  am  fully  per- 
suaded that,  where  passengers  and  ships'  crews  suffer,  as 
is  often  the  case,  for  the  want  of  suitable  provisions,  it  is 
owing,  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten,  to  the  penuriousness  or 
carelessness  of  owners  and  captains.  No  word  of 
complaint,  however,  can  be  preferred  against  the  Leland, 
for  the  quality  of  the  fare  which  she  afforded.  Every 
thing  was  in  good  time,  and  in  good  order  ;  and  the 
variety  of  meats,  vegetables  and  sauce,  with  which  the 
table  was  furnished,  was  truly  surprising  to  us,  who,  on 
other  vessels,  had  been  accustomed  to  such  different 
fare.  Besides  his  attention  to  the  wants  of  the  passen- 
gers, Mr.  Finlay  proved  himself  to  be  a  very  agreeable 
cabin  companion.  He  is  very  much  of  a  gentleman, 
and  having  followed  the  seas  for  more  than  twenty 
years,  as  supercargo,  he  has  collected  a  vast  fund  of 
general  information. 

It  is  often  necessary  to  be  subjected  to  a  close  con- 
nection with  others,  for  some  length  of  time,  in  order  to 
be  able  to  form  correct  opinions  concerning  them.  Mrs. 
Hooper,  we    found   to  be,  not    only  a  very    benevolent 


TO    NEW    YORK.  311 

person,  but  an  agreeable  associate  in  the  cabin.  We 
shall  often  call  to  mind  the  many  hours  at  sea  which 
have  been  rendered  more  endurable  by  her  inteUigent 
conversation  and  cheerful  deportment. 

Saturday,  the  15th  of  March,  the  mountainous  coast 
of  southern  Africa  disappeared  in  the  dim  distance. 

For  the  first  few  days  after  leaving  Table  Bay,  we 
made  but  little  progress,  in  consequence  of  adverse 
winds,  but  the  fourth  day,  we  took  the  south-east  trades, 
and  began  to  indulge  the  pleasing  reflection,  that  the 
next  land  we  saw  would  be  the  shores  of  our  own  native 
country,  though  there  were  checks  thrown  upon  our 
happiness  by  the  consideration,  that  there  were  still 
many  dangers  to  pass,  and  storms  to  buffet,  before  we 
should  reach  the  desired  haven. 

The  south-east  trade-winds  are  not  very  strong,  and 
the  ocean,  in  the  region  where  they  prevail,  is  generally 
smooth,  and  the  w^eather  pleasant ;  consequently,  it  is  in 
passing  over  these  latitudes  that  vessels,  homeward 
bound,  prepare  for  entering  port.  The  vessel  is  to  be 
scrubbed,  inside  and  out ;  the  decks  are  to  be  scraped, 
holy-stoned,  and  varnished  ;  the  spars  are  to  be  cleansed 
and  painted,  and  the  bulwarks,  masts,  round-house, 
chains,  guns,  casks,  buckets,  and  binacle,  are  all  to  be 
scoured  and  painted.  The  rigging  is  to  be  overhauled 
and  tarred  down  ;  empty  boxes,  barrels,  and  all  unne- 
cessary lumber,  are  to  be  cast  overboard  ;  rent  sails  are 
all  to  be  mended,  and  put  in  perfect  order,  and  every 
thing,  even  to  the  anchor,  is  to  put  on,  at  least  a 
clean  outside,  so  that  the  ship  will  make  as  good  an  ap- 
pearance when  she  enters  port  as  when  she  left.  As 
the  Leland  had  been  out  nearly  eighteen  months,  and  in 
that  time  having  performed  a  voyage  round  the  world, 
she  required  much  cleansing,  and  the  seamen  were 
busily  employed  in  accomplishing  this  object,  for  several 
weeks. 

While  this  work  was  going  on,  an  accident  happened 
which  produced  a  great  excitement  on  board.  We  were 
sailing  before  the  wind  at  the  rate  of  five  knots  an  hour, 
and  a  sailor  boy,  who  was  on  the  outside  of  the  bul- 


912  VOYAGE  FROM  HONG  KONG 

warks,  scraping  the  fore  chains,  and  was  held  to  his 
place  by  a  rope  tied  around  his  waist,  and  fastened  to  a 
belaying-pin,  from  carelessness,  lost  his  hold,  and,  as  the 
rope  slipped  upon  the  pin,  he  fell  into  the  ocean.  As  he 
was  falling,  he  hallooed  as  loud  as  he  could  roar,  for  his 
comrades  to  haul  in  the  slack  of  the  rope.  As  they  did 
not  understand  him,  a  cry  was  raised,  that  resounded 
from  the  after  cabin  to  the  forecastle,  that  **  a  man  was 
overboard."  The  ladies  in  the  cabin  heard  the  cry,  and 
Mrs.  Hooper  thought  it  was  her  little  daughter,  as  she 
heard  the  word  "  child,"  and  Mrs.  Hines  thought  I  was 
the  unfortunate  one,  as  she  heard  my  name  mentioned 
in  connection  with  "  overboard." 

Which  of  the  two  were  most  frightened,  it  is  difficult 
to  tell.  Mrs.  Hooper  was  actually  thrown  into  a  fit, 
and  Mrs.  Hines  fainted,  and  neither  of  them,  two  weeks 
afterwards,  had  entirely  recovered  from  the  shock. 

As  soon  as  the  cry  was  raised,  the  mate  seized  a  hen- 
coop containing  nine  chickens,  and  cast  it  overboard, 
for  the  drowning  man  to  hold  upon  until  other  relief 
could  be  sent.  But  this  was  not  necessary,  as  the  rope 
did  not  slip  far  on  the  pin  before  it  held  ;  and  as  it  re- 
tained its  hold  on  his  body,  the  frightened  tar,  by  the 
assistance  of  his  comrades,  was  soon  again  brought  on 
deck. 

We  were  twenty-six  days  from  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  to  the  equinoctial  line,  and  had  the  good  fortune 
to  pass  from  the  south-east  to  the  north-east  trade,  with 
very  little  detention.  In  the  region  of  the  equator  we 
experienced  numerous  showers  of  rain,  but  as  ttiey 
were  accompanied  by  favorable  breezes,  we  were  soon 
out  of  the  rainy  latitudes,  and,  by  the  assistance  of  a 
strong  north-east  trade,  were  passing  up  into  the  regions 
of  the  north,  at  the  rate  of  two  hundred  miles  per  day. 

We  crossed  the  equator  in  longitude  thirty-six  degrees, 
and  consequently  were  not  far  from  the  coast  of  Brazil. 
In  north  latitude,  twenty  degrees,  we  approached  so  near 
the  Island  of  Trinidad,  as  to  discern  its  whereabouts, 
and  witness  the  immense  columns  of  clouds  which  hung 
around  its   lofty  and  volcanic  summit.     Frona   this  our 


TO    NEW    YORK  313 

course  lay  along,  about  two  hundred  miles  to  the  wind- 
ward of  the  West  India  Islands.  While  passing  these, 
we  experienced  a  succession  of  squalls  and  calms  which 
continued  until  we  entered  the  twenty-fifth  degree  of 
north  latitude.  While  in  latitude  twenty-four  degrees 
forty-one  minutes,  and  longitude  sixty-one  degrees  forty 
minutes,  on  the  25th  of  April,  we  had  a  splendid  view 
of  a  solar  eclipse.  It  was  a  remarkably  clear  day,  and 
the  eclipse  was  so  nearly  total  that  it  became  quite  dark. 
At  the  greatest  obscuration  the  south  side  of  the  sun 
presented  the  appearance  of  the  moon  at  thirty-six  hours 
old,  and  the  light  preceeding  from  it  was  not,  in  appear- 
ance, unUke  to  the  light  of  the  moon  on  a  clear  winter's 
night.  However  common  the  phenomenon  of  an  eclipse 
of  the  sun  may  be  to  us,  far  away  upon  the  sea,  it  was 
a  source  of  real  entertainment ;  and  we  cheered  our- 
selves with  the  idea  that  many  of  our  friends  on  land 
were  perhaps  gazing  at  the  same  object. 

A  number  of  severe  squalls  while  we  were  passing 
the  Bermudas,  brought  to  mind  the  quaint  lines  of  the 
sailor  : 

"If  Bermuda  let  you  pass. 
Look  ye  out  for  Hatteras  ; 
If  Hatteras  you  pass  by. 
Look  ye  out  for  Cape  Henry." 

Bermuda,  however,  "let  us  pass"  on  the  25th  of  April, 
and  we  began  to  flatter  ourselves  that  our  voyage  would 
soon  be  over. 

When  a  person  first  leaves  his  native  land  and  goes 
to  sea,  the  wonders  of  the  deep  are  contemplated  by 
him  with  a  great  degree  of  interest.  The  monsters 
that  inhabit  it — the  whale,  the  shark,  the  porpoise — and 
the  various  kinds  of  fish  that  explore  its  boundless  ex- 
tent ;  together  with  the  albatros,  petrel,  and  other  birds 
which  live  almost  perpetually  on  the  wing,  and  are  seen 
ahke  in  calms  and  storms  in  all  latitudes,  become,  suc- 
cessively, the  objects  of  his  curious  observation.  The 
manner  in  which  the  ship  is  managed,  the  peculiar 
phrases    which    salute    his    ear,  the    tacking    ship,    the 


S14  VOYAGE  FROM  HONG  KONG 

making  sail,  the  shortening  sail,  and  a  thousand  other 
things,  conspire  to  interest  and  divert  him.  And,  indeed, 
to  the  curious,  the  sea  does  not  present  that  dull  mono- 
tony of  which  so  many  voyagers  have  complained. 

However,  subjects  contemplated  with  great  interest 
on  an  outward  voyage,  do  not  claim  the  same  attention 
when  one  is  bound  for  home,  after  an  absence  of  seven 
or  eight  years.  The  absorbing  topic  with  us  on  ap- 
proaching our  native  coast,  was  the  distance  we  were 
sailing  from  day  to  day,  and  the  probable  time  we  should 
reach  our  much  desired  haven.  We  had  been  absent 
nearly  seven  years  ;  and  while  approximating  our  native 
shores,  a  thousand  thoughts  revolved  in  our  minds  in 
reference  to  the  circumstances  in  which  we  might  find 
those  persons  and  things  that  were  interesting  to  us 
before  subjecting  ourselves  to  our  voluntary  exile.  We 
had  left  a  large  circle  of  friends,  and  from  many  of  them 
we  had  heard  nothing  .for  seven  long  years.  As  we  had 
been  situated  in  the  most  isolated  country  on  the  globe, 
the  information  we  had  received  concerning  the  state 
of  our  own  religious  denomination,  had  been  very  limit- 
ed, and  usually  more  than  one  year  old  when  obtained. 

The  numerous  changes  which  must  have  taken  place 
in  the  different  localities  and  social  circles  in  which  it 
had  been  our  privilege  to  move,  had  been  kept  from  our 
knowledge.  Indeed,  a  pall  of  darkness  had  long  since 
fallen  upon  most  of  those  things  which  were  particularly 
interesting  to  us  as  private  individuals  ;  and  from  the 
uncertainty  of  every  thing  before  us,  we  scarcely  knew 
whether  to  be  elated  or  dejected — to  indulge  in  feelings 
of  joy  or  those  of  sorrow — when  we  reflected  that  in  a 
few  more  days  the  hills  and  valleys  of  our  own  New 
York  would  appear  before  us,  and  we  should  be  permit- 
ted again  to  visit  those  places  rendered  dear  to  us  by 
many  hallowing  associations.  Whether  we  were  to  be 
greeted  by  our  friends  on  our  arrival,  or  whether  we 
were  to  learn  that  they  were  dead,  was  altogether  pro- 
blematical, and  we  began  to  indulge  the  melancholy 
reflection  that  we  might  find  ourselves  strangers  even 
in  our  own  native  village. 


TO    NF,W    YORK.  315 

While  the  different  changes  which  might  have  taken 
place  in  the  various  departments  of  church  and  state, 
and  in  the  families  wath  which  we  had  been  acquainted, 
were  passing  before  our  minds,  our  gallant  vessel  was 
bearing  us  rapidly  onward  towards  our  native  shores, 
and  on  the  30th  of  April  we  entered  the  Gulf  Stream  in 
latitude  thirty-six  degrees  north,  and  found  this  terror 
of  the  American  coast  in  a  remarkably  quiet  state,  as  it 
usually  is  when  westerly  winds  prevail.  We  were 
sixteen  hours  in  crossing  the  stream,  and  on  the  1st  day 
of  May  found  ourselves  on  soundings,  off  the  Capes  of 
Virginia. 

It  is  a  singular  fact  often  eliciting  remarks  from  voy- 
agers, though  it  is  none  the  less  remarkable  on  that 
account,  that  the  water  in  the  Gulf  Stream  is  fifteen 
degrees  warmer  than  it  is  on  either  side.  Before 
reaching  it  from  the  south,  the  water  for  a  great  dis- 
tance was  full  of  an  aquatic  plant  called  the  gulf-w^eed. 
As  every  object  at  sea  commands  the  notice  of  the 
voyager,  the  sea-weed  was  observed  with  no  small 
interest. 

On  getting  past  the  stream,  in  the  evening  we  were 
permitted  to  see  a  grand  display  of  Nature's  fire-woi'ks. 
The  clouds  that  hung  over  the  stream  in  dense  masses, 
were  lighted  up  by  the  continued  flashes  of  electricity, 
with  the  most  magnificent  illumination.  Sometimes  it 
would  appear  as  if  the  whole  ocean  in  our  rear  was  in 
one  general  conflagration. 

After  leaving  the  stream  we  were  favored  with 
remarkably  pleasant  weather  and  fair  winds,  and  on  the 
morning  of  the  2d  day  of  May,  at  three  o'clock,  we 
made  the  lighthouse  of  Barnegat,  on  the  coast  of  New 
Jersey.  Soon  after  dayhght  we  received  a  New  York 
pilot,  at  which  time  our  voyage  was  considered  as  ter- 
minated ;  making  one  hundred  and  two  days  from  Hong 
Kong.  After  receiving  the  pilot,  a  dense  fog  enveloped 
us,  through  which  we  had  to  feel  our  way,  and  in  the 
midst  of  which  we  were  hovering  around  the  entrance 
to  New  York  Bay.  At  length  the  fog  was  removed  by 
a  friendly  wind,  and  at  dusk  the  Leland  dropped  her 


316  HONG  KONG  TO  NEW  YORK. 

anchor  inside  of  Sandy  Hook,  and  within  a  stone's  cast 
of  the  spot  where  lay  the  Lausanne  the  night  previous 
to  taking  her  departure  in  1839. 

We  were  detained  at  the  Hook  by  dense  fogs  until 
the  4th  of  May,  when  we  proceeded  up  the  Bay  to 
New  York  city,  where  we  landed  in  safety  on  the 
evening  of  that  day. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Oregon  Territory  —  Its  geography  —  Boundary  and  extent  —  Harbors  —  Capes  — 
Face  of  the  country  —  Snow  Mountains  —  Rivers  —  Mouth  of  the  Columbia  — 
Columbia  Bar  —  Channel  —  Kinds  of  fish  —  Timber  —  Climate  —  Summer  and 
Winter  —  Fertility  of  the  soil  —  Clatsop  Plains  —  Bottom  lands  —  Puget's 
Sound  —  The  garden  of  Oregon  —  Middle  region  —  Upper  region  —  Capabilities 
of  ihe  country. 

That  portion  of  the  vast  extent  of  country  lying 
west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  has  acquired,  by 
universal  consent,  the  name  of  Oregon,  lies  within  the 
following  boundaries  :  Commencing  at  the  north-west 
corner,  in  the  centre  of  the  Strait  of  Juan  De  Fuca,  at 
its  mouth,  consider  the  north  Hne  as  extending  along 
said  strait,  at  an  equal  distance  from  the  main  land  on 
the  south,  and  Vancouver's  Island  on  the  north,  east- 
ward, the  distance  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles, 
thence  northward  till  it  strikes  the  forty-ninth  parallel 
of  north  latitude,  thence  due  east  along  said  parallel  the 
distance  of  five  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains  ;  on  the  east  by  the  Rocky  Mountains,  ex- 
tending from  the  forty-ninth  parallel  of  north  latitude, 
to  the  forty-first,  the  distance  of  four  hundred  and 
eighty  miles  ;  on  the  south  by  the  Snowy  Mountains, 
which  extend,  in  a  continuous  range,  from  the  Rocky 
Mountains  to  Cape  Mendocino,  on  the  Pacific,  the  dis- 
tance of  seven  hundred  miles  ;  and  on  the  west  by  the 
Pacific  ocean,  from  Cape  Mendocino,  five  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  due  north,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Strait  of 
Juan  De  Fuca,  near  Cape  Flattery,  the  place  of  begin- 
ning. Since  the  dividing  line  between  the  two  govern- 
ments which  have  an  interest  and  have  exercised  a 
controlling  influence  in  the  country,  has  now  been  de- 


318  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

fined,  and  the  forty-ninth  parallel  is  hereafter,  forever,  to 
separate  the  two  nations,  it  remains  no  longer  a  subject 
of  discussion  ;  but  any  one,  in  casting  his  eye  over  a 
correct  map  of  the  country  west  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, will  discover  at  one  glance,  that  a  more  natural 
division  than  the  one  which  has  been  established,  would 
have  been  a  line  extending  from  Puget's  Sound  north-east- 
wardly  along  the  summit  of  the  highlands,  which  separate 
the  waters  of  the  Columbia  from  those  of  Frazer's  river, 
to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  so  as  to  embrace  in  Oregon  all 
the  territory  drained  by  the  Columbia  river.  This  would 
have  given  a  natural  boundary  to  the  country  on  all 
sides,  while  the  forty-ninth  parallel  is  a  very  unnatural 
one,  because,  in  crossing  the  great  valley  of  the  Colum- 
bia, it  puts  asunder  that  which  the  God  of  nature  has 
joined  together. 

The  boundary  as  defined,  gives  Oregon  about  six 
hundred  and  forty  miles  of  coast  on  the  Pacific  ocean 
and  Strait  of  Fuca.  The  shores  of  the  strait  are  com- 
posed of  beaches  of  sand  or  stones,  overhung  by  sandy 
and  rocky  cliflJs,  and  from  these  the  land  ascends  gradu- 
ally to  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  which  rise  abruptly  to 
a  great  height  within  a  few  miles  of  the  ocean.  The 
coast  along  the  Pacific  is  nearly  straight  from  north  to 
south,  in  some  places  iron-bound,  and  in  others  composed 
of  low  beaches  of  sand. 

The  harbors,  or  places  of  refuge  for  vessels  along  the 
Oregon  coast,  are  very  few,  and,  if  we  except  Puget's 
Sound,  with  its  numerous  arms  stretching  far  inland, 
there  are  none  of  the  first  quality.  At  the  mouth  of 
the  Umpqua  river  there  is  a  tolerable  harbor  for  small 
craft,  and  the  channel  across  the  bar  will  admit  of  the 
entrance  of  vessels  drawing  eight  feet.  Bulfinch's 
harbor,  discovered  by  Captain  Robert  Gray,  of  Boston, 
in  1792,  is  situated  forty  miles  north  of  the  mouth  of 
the  Columbia,  and  by  artificial  means  may  be  constituted 
a  safe  anchorage.  Port  Discovery,  situated  near  the 
south-east  angle  of  the  Strait  of  Fuea,  is  pronounced 
perfectly  safe,  and  convenient  for  ships  of  any  size.     It 


OftfiGON    TERKITORY.  319 

is  defended  from  the  violence  of  the  waves  by  Protection 
Island. 

The  most  important  harbor  on  the  coast  is  that  formed 
by  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river,  as  it  constitutes  a 
port  of  entry  to  the  most  important  portions  of  Oregon. 
This  harbor,  though  difficult  of  access  in  the  winter 
season,  when  the  prevailing  winds  on  the  coast  are  from 
the  south  and  east,  may,  at  other  times,  be  safely  entered 
by  vessels  drawing  not  more  than  sixteen  feet,  particu- 
larly if  the  navigator  is  acquainted  with  the  intricacies 
of  the  channel.  But  this  river,  with  its  mouth,  will  be 
more  particularly  described  hereafter. 

There  are  but  few  Capes  along  this  coast,  and  none 
that  project  far  into  the  ocean  ;  the  shores  being  gene- 
rally straight,  bold  and  unbroken.  The  principal  are 
Cape  Blanco,  which  is  a  high  point  of  land  extending 
into  the  ocean  between  the  Clameth  and  Umpqua 
rivers,  and  nearly  under  the  forty-third  parallel  of  lati- 
tude ;  Cape  Disappointment,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia  river,  and  Cape  Flattery,  on  the 
south  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  Strait  of  Fuca'.  Cape 
Disappointment,  however,  does  not  properly  class  with 
the  important  Capes  along  the  Pacific  coast,  as  it  does 
not  extend  into  the  ocean,  but  is,  at  least,  three  miles 
inside  the  bar  of  the  Columbia.  But  it  holds  a  promi- 
nent place  on  all  our  maps  and  charts,  as,  from  its  pe- 
culiar location  and  the  appearance  of  the  majestic  fir- 
trees  upon  its  top,  it  forms  an  unerring  guide  to  the 
storm-beaten  sailor,  who  is  desirous  of  seeking  shelter 
in  the  quiet  and  peaceful  waters  of  Baker's  Bay. 

There  are  no  islands  of  importance  between  Capes 
Mendocino  and  Flattery.  One  is  found,  however,  lying 
about  forty  miles  south  of  Cape  Flattery,  and  named,  by 
the  Spaniards,  the  ''Isle  of  Grief,"  in  commemoration  of 
the  loss  of  some  of  their  men,  who  were  destroyed  by 
the  natives  on  the  adjacent  coast. 

The  face  of  this  country  is  wonderfully  diversified, 
and  presents  every  variety  of  scenery,  from  the  most 
awfully  grand  and  sublime,  to  the  most  beautiful  and 
picturesque  in  nature. 


320  OREGON    TERRITORV. 

The  country,  in  the  vicinity  of  Puget's  Sound,  to  a 
considerable  extent,  is  level  and  beautiful,  w^ith  the  ex- 
ception of  which,  all  along  the  coast,  it  is  broken  and 
mountainous.  On  approaching  the  coast,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia  river,  ridges  of  high  lands  appear  on 
either  hand,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  v^^hile  the  more 
elevated  points  serve  as  land-marks,  to  guide  the  mari- 
ner across  the  dreaded  bar.  The  most  remarkable  of 
these  elevations  is  one,  called  by  the  Indians,  "  The 
Sv^allalahoost,"  and  celebrated  by  them  as  the  place 
where  one  of  their  mighty  chiefs,  who,  after  death,  as- 
sumed the  form  of  a  monstrous  eagle,  and  taking  wing, 
flew  to  the  top  of  this  mountain,  and  subsequently  be- 
came the  creator  of  the  lightning  and  the  thunder. 
From  this  tradition,  as  well  as  from  the  appearance  of 
the  mountain,  it  is  supposed  by  some,  that  it  might  pos- 
sibly have  once  been  an  active  volcano.  Captain  Wilkes, 
on  his  exploring  visit  to  the  country,  gave  it  the  name 
of  "  Saddle  Mountain,"  from  the  resemblance  of  its  top 
to  the  shape  of  a  saddle.  With  but  little  variation,  the 
country  south  of  the  Columbia,  from  thirty  to  fifty 
miles  back  from  the  ocean,  and  extending  the  whole 
extent  of  the  Oregon  coast,  presents  the  same  rough, 
wild  and  mountainous  aspect.  Doubtless,  this  region  is 
destined  to  be  occupied  by  civilized  man,  but  not  until 
there  is  no  room  left  in  the  numerous  valleys  of  this 
wide-spread  country. 

Having  passed  over  this  range  of  high  lands  along  the 
coast,  you  descend,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Columbia, 
iuto  the  valley  of  the  Cowilitz,  and  on  the  south,  into 
that  of  the  Wallamette  river,  and  still  farther  south, 
you  come  down  on  the  plains  which  lie  on  the  Umpqua 
and  Clameth  rivers.  The  valley  of  the  Cowilitz  is 
about  forty  miles  in  length,  and  varying  from  ten  to 
twenty  in  breadth,  and  extends  east  to  the  foot  of  that 
range  of  mountains  of  which  "  St.  Helen's,"  the  Mount 
Adams  of  Americans,  is  the  highest  peak.  The  Walla- 
mette valley  is  more  extensive,  being  from  fifty  to  eighty 
miles  broad,  and  more  than  two  hundred  miles  long. 
The   plains   on   the   Umpqua,   which   commence    about 


OREGON    TERRITORY  321 

forty-five  miles  back  from  the  ocean,  are  quite  extensive, 
and,  with  those  on  the  Clameth,  and  the  Waliamette 
valley,  extend  east  to  that  range  of  mountains,  which, 
crossing-  the  Columbia  river,  form  the  Cascades,  and 
are  therefore  called  the  ''Cascade  Mountains." 

Throughout  these  valleys  are  scattered  numberless 
hillocks  and  rising  grounds,  from  the  top  of  some  of 
which,  scenery,  as  enchanting  as  was  ever  presented  to 
the  eye,  delights  and  charms  the  lover  of  nature,  who 
takes  time  to  visit  their  conical  summits. 

The  whole  extent  of  country  from  the  Cascade  moun- 
tains to  the  Pacific  ocean,  varying  in  breadth  from 
seventy-five  to  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles,  is  called 
the  Lower  Country. 

The  Cascade  mountains  extend  in  one  continuous 
range,  parallel  with  the  coast,  quite  to  California,  and 
have  therefore  some  times  been  called  "  The  Cahfornia 
Mountains." 

Those  whose  highest  observations  have  been  limited 
to  the  CatskiJl  and  Alleghany  mountains,  can  form  no 
just  conception  of  the  grandeur  and  magnificence  of 
this  stupendous  range.  Some  of  its  loftiest  summits  are 
more  than  fifteen  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
ocean,  and  Mount  Olympus,  near  Cape  Flattery,  and  St. 
Helen's,  near  the  head  of  the  Cowilitz  river,  and  fifty 
miles  from  the  coast,  can  both  be  seen  for  some  distance 
at  sea. 

These  highest  points  are  covered  with  eternal  snow, 
and,  presenting  their  rounded  tops  to  the  heavens,  ap- 
pear like  so  many  magnificent  domes,  to  adorn  the 
temple  of  nature.  From  one  elevation  near  the  Walia- 
mette river,  and  at  the  distance  of  from  sixty  to  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles,  the  writer  has  counted  eight  of 
these  snow-topped  mountains,  without  moving  from  his 
tracks.  Surely,  no  scenery  can  be  more  enchanting. 
One  of  these  mountains,  St.  Helen's,  requires  a  more 
particular  account,  from  a  phenomenon  which  it  pre- 
sented a  few  years  ago.  In  the  month  of  October, 
1842,  it  was  discovered,  all  at  once,  to  be  covered  with 
a  dense  cloud  of  smoke,  which  continued  to  enlarge,  and 


322  OREGON    TERftiTORY. 

move  off,  in  dense  masses,  to  the  eastward,  and  tilling 
the  heavens  in  that  direction,  presented  an  appearance 
hke  that  occasioned  by  a  tremendous  conflagration, 
viewed  at  a  vast  distance.  When  the  first  volumes  of 
smoke  had  passed  away,  it  could  be  distinctly  seen,  from 
various  parts  of  the  country,  that  an  eruption  had  taken 
place  on  the  north  side  of  St.  Helen's,  a  little  below  the 
summit,  and  from  the  smoke  that  continued  to  issue 
from  the  chasm  or  crater,  it  was  pronounced  to  be  a 
volcano  in  active  operation.  When  the  explosion  took 
place,  the  wind  was  north-west,  and  on  the  same  day, 
and  extending  from  thirty  to  fifty  miles  to  the  south- 
east, there  fell  showers  of  ashes,  or  dust,  which  covered 
the  ground  in  some  places,  so  as  to  admit  of  its  being 
collected  in  quantities.  This  last  phenomenon  has  been 
of  frequent  occurrence,  and  has  led  many  to  suppose 
that  volcanic  eruptions  are  not  uncommon  in  this  coun- 

St.  Helen's  is  the  most  regular  in  its  form  and  the  most 
beautiful  in  its  appearance  of  all  the  snow-capped  moun- 
tains of  Oregon ;  and  though  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Columbia,  it  belongs  to  the  Cascade  range.  Mount 
Hood,  or  Mount  Washington,  as  it  is  sometimes  called  by 
Americans,  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  Columbia,  and 
being  larger,  and  more  elevated  than  St.  Helen's,  presents 
a  magnificent  object,  on  which  the  eye  can  gaze  without 
weariness,  from  innumerable  points  more  than  one  hun- 
dred miles  from  its  base.  But  any  description  of  these 
gigantic  piles  of  basalt  and  snow,  must  fall  far  below  the 
reality  ;  and  indeed,  the  person  desiring  to  realize  all  the 
delightful  sensations  produced  by  the  scenery  of  these 
mountains,  must  fix  himself  on  some  eminence  in  the 
Wallamette  valley,  where  all  of  them  at  once  come  in 
contact  with  his  vision,  and  he  will  want  no  farther 
proof  that  the  works  of  art  sink  into  insignificance,  when 
compared  with  the  stupendous  works  of  nature. 

Descending  these  mountains  to  the  east,  you  come 
into  the  valleys,  successively,  through  which  the  river 
"  De  Shoots,"  John  Day's  river,  the  Unatila,  and  the 
Walla- Walla  flow,  before  emptying  into  the  Columbia ; 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  323 

and  on  the  north  side  of  the  latter  river,  you  come  down 
into  the  valley  of  the  north  branch  of  the  same  river. 
On  the  north,  this  middle  region  is  comparatively  level, 
until  you  approach  the  northern  ridges  of  the  Blue 
mountains  ;  but  on  the  south  side  there  are  innumerable 
hills  between  the  small  rivers  already  mentioned,  as  also 
many  plains  of  greater  or  less  extent.  As  you  approach 
the  Blue  mountains  on  the  south,  particularly  on  the 
Unatilla  and  Walla- Walla  rivers,  the  hills  disappear,  and 
you  find  yourself  passing  over  a  beautiful  and  level 
country,  about  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles  broad,  on  the 
farther  borders  of  which  rise  with  indescribable  beauty 
and  grandeur,  that  range  which,  from  its  azure-like  ap- 
pearance, has  been  called  the  ''  Blue  Mountains."  This 
valley,  extending  from  the  Cascade  to  the  Blue  moun- 
tains, is  about  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  miles  broad, 
and  the  traveler  in  passing  through  it,  meets  with  a  con- 
tinued succession  of  rocks,  hills  and  plains  of  all  dimen- 
sions, but  generally  he  is  well  pleased  with  the  face  of 
the  country. 

The  Blue  mountains  are  steep  and  rocky,  and  many  of 
them  also  volcanic.  Some  are  covered  with  perpetual 
snow. 

They  run  nearly  parallel  with  the  Cascade  mountains, 
though  at  the  south  branches  of  them  intersect  the  latter 
range.  They  are  about  midway  between  the  Pacific 
ocean  and  the  Rocky  mountains. 

The  face  of  the  country  east  of  the  Blue  mountains 
is,  if  possible,  more  varied  than  it  is  west.  The  southern 
part  of  this  third  region,  or  upper  country,  so  far  as  its 
surface  is  concerned,  is  distinguished  by  its  steep  and 
rugged  mountains,  deep  and  dismal  valleys,  called  holes^ 
by  mountaineers,  and  wide  granite  plains.  It  wears  a 
forbidding  aspect.  But  the  north  part  is  less  objectiona- 
ble-in  its  features.  The  plains  are  more  extensive,  the 
mountains  less  precipitous,  and  the  valleys  not  so  gloomy. 
Many  portions  of  this  upper  region  are  volcanic,  and 
some  of  the  volcanoes  are  in  constant  action. 

On  the  eastern  limits  of  this  region,  rise  the  towering 
summits  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  which  form  at  once 


324  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

the  eastern  boundary  of  Oregon,  and  are  every  way 
worthy  to  separate  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  ocean 
from  those  of  the  Pacific.  In  fine,  so  far  as  the  external 
appearance  of  this  country  is  concerned,  in  contem- 
plating its  distinguished  features,  one  is  brought  to  the 
conclusion  that  there  is  nothing  in  all  the  descriptions  of 
European  or  Oriental  scenery,  that  surpasses  that  of  this 
interesting  country. 

The  rivers  of  Oregon  form  the  next  distinguishing 
trait  of  the  country  to  be  described.  These  are  princi- 
pally embraced  in  the  Columbia  and  its  tributaries. 

This  majestic  river,  which  drains  nearly  the  whole  of 
Oregon,  like  most  of  the  large  rivers  of  North  America, 
is  supplied  from  the  inexhaustible  reservoirs  of  the  Rocky 
mountains.  Some  of  the  more  important  confluents  of 
this  river  require  to  be  particularly  noticed. 

The  most  northerly  branch  of  the  Columbia  is  Canoe 
river,  which  rises  near  the  fifty-fourth  degree  of  latitude, 
and  after  running  about  one  hundred  miles  in  a  southerly 
direction,  unites  with  two  others,  one  of  which  rises  in  a 
tremendous  gorge  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  under  the 
fifty-third  parallel,  and  the  other  flows  from  the  south 
about  two  hundred  miles  along  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tains. A  traveler,  in  describing  this  gorge,  says  :  "  The 
country  around  our  encampment  presented  the  wildest 
and  most  terrific  appearance  of  desolation.  The  sun, 
shining  on  a  range  of  stupendous  glaciers,  threw  a  chill- 
ing brightness  over  the  chaotic  mass  of  rocks,  ice  and 
snow,  by  which  we  were  environed.  Close  to  our  en- 
campment one  gigantic  mountain  of  conical  form  towered 
majestically  into  the  clouds  far  above  the  others,  while 
at  intervals  the  interest  of  the  scene  was  heightened  by 
the  rumbling  noise  of  a  descending  avalanche." 

The  mountain  here  referred  to,  is  supposed  to  be  the 
highest  point  of  land  in  North  America.  The  south 
river,  being  the  largest  of  the  three,  is  entitled  to  be 
called  the  Columbia,  to  its  rise,  which  takes  place  in  a 
small  lake  situated  in  the  mountains,  nearly  under  the 
fiftieth  parallel  of  north  latitude.  After  the  junction  of 
the   three,  the   Columbia   pursues  a  course  nearly  due 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  325 

south,  for  two  hundred  miles,  receiving  a  number  of 
small  rivers  in  its  passage,  and  then  unites  its  waters 
with  those  of  the  Mc  Gillinroy  and  the  Clark  rivers, 
both  of  which  come  rushing  down  from  the  Rocky 
mountains,  to  swell  its  increasing  tide.  The  Clark  takes 
its  rise  near  the  sources  of  the  Missouri,  and,  in  its  pas- 
sage to  the  Columbia,  receives  a  number  of  smaller 
streams.  This  river  rushes  into  the  Columbia  down  a 
ledge  of  rocks,  and  the  latter,  in  its  passage  through 
the  Blue  mountains,  immediately  after  the  junction, 
forms  the  Kittle  Falls.  From  this  point  the  river  takes 
nearly  a  western  course,  one  hundred  miles,  where  it 
takes  in  the  Okanagan  from  the  north,  having  previously 
received  the  Spokan  from  the  south  and  east.  At  this 
point  the  river  makes  another  bend,  and  taking  a  due 
south  course  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  to  the 
forty-sixth  degree  of  north  latitude,  unites  with  its  great 
southern  branch,  called  the  "  Snake,  or  Lewis  River." 

This  stream  takes  its  rise  in  the  Rocky  and  Snowy 
mountains,  near  the  sources  of  the  Colorado,  the  Piatt, 
the  Yellow  Stone,  and  the  Missouri  rivers.  It  first  takes 
a  western  course  about  two  hundred  miles,  thence  north- 
west about  two  hundred  and  fifty,  to  its  junction  with  its 
kindred  branch  from  the  north.  It  passes  through  the 
Blue  mountains,  forming  the  Salmon  Falls,  and  receives, 
in  its  course,  the  Henry,  Melade,  Wapicacoos,  the  Koos- 
kooske,  or  Salmon  river,  and  a  number  of  other  streams. 

Below  the  junction  of  these  two  great  branches,  the 
Columbia  receives,  on  the  south,  the  Walla  Walla,  Una- 
tilla,  John  Day's  river,  and  the  De  Shoots,  or  Falls 
river  ;  and,  after  shooting  itself  through  the  Dalls,  or 
Narrows,  where  it  becomes  compressed  to  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide,  and  in  passing  through  the 
narrow  chasm,  forms,  at  some  stages,  the  most  frightful 
whirlpools,  it  glides  gently  and  smoothly  onward  about 
forty  miles,  and  then  throws  itself  through  a  terrific 
chasm,  which  its  accumulated  waters  have  torn  in  the 
mountains,  and  rushing  down  a  ledge  of  rocks,  forms  the 
beautiful  cascades. 

Above  the  Dalls,  the  river,  in  many  places,  is  very 


326  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

rapid,  and  in  one  place,  a  short  distance  from  the  De 
Shoots,  in  low  water,  there  is  a  perpendicular  fall  of 
several  feet.  But,  when  the  river  is  high,  the  water  sets 
back  from  the  narrows  below,  so  as  to  admit  of  the 
passage  of  boats  up  and  down.  The  Cascades  cannot, 
however,  be  run  with  boats  either  in  high  water  or  low. 

Many  a  poor  voyager  in  the  service  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  both  at  the  Cascades  and  the  Balls,  has 
lost  his  life  in  attempting  to  navigate  these  treacherous 
waters.  A  boat  filled  with  American  emigrants,  in  at- 
tempting to  run  the  Balls  last  fall,  was  drawn  down 
in  one  of  the  tremendous  whirlpools,  and,  though  the 
shore  was  lined  with  people,  two  or  three  persons  sunk 
and  perished  before  their  eyes. 

Below  the  Cascades  the  river  continues  rapid  a  few 
miles,  but  soon  becomes  effected  by  the  tide.  The  dis- 
tance from  the  Cascades  to  the  Pacific,  is  about  one 
hundred  and  forty  miles,  and  the  river  is  navigable  for 
vessels  drawing  fourteen  feet,  nearly  the  whole  distance. 
The  rivers  which  fall  into  the  Columbia  below  the  Cas- 
cades are,  the  Quicksand  and  the  Wallamette,  on  the 
south,  and  the  Cowilitz  on  the  north.  The  Wallamette 
takes  its  rise  in  the  Cascade  mountains,  and  in  that  range 
of  high  lands  which  border  the  Pacific  ocean.  In  pass- 
ing up  the  Wallamette  from  its  mouth,  the  first  branch 
of  importance  you  discover,  is  the  Clakamas,  on  the  east 
or  left-hand  side,  as  you  go  up  the  stream,  and  twenty- 
four  miles  from  the  upper  mouth  of  the  Wallamette. 
This  river  rises  in  Mount  Hood,  and  passes  through  a 
rough  country  ;  though  there  is  occasionally  a  fine  plain 
on  its  banks.  One  mile  above  the  mouth  of  Clakamas 
is  the  Wallamette  falls. 

Here  the  river  rushes  over  a  precipice  of  rocks  thirty 
feet  perpendicular  in  low  water. 

But  the  river  below  the  falls  often  rises  so  high  that 
there  are  but  from  six  to  ten  feet  perpendicular  falls. 
This  is  a  most  beautiful  cataract,  and  the  hydrauhc  pri- 
vileges which  it  affords,  and  which  are  beginning  to  be 
extensively  used,  are  almost  boundless. 

Two  miles  above  the  falls  you  come  to  the  mouth  of 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  327 

the  Tuality,  which  comes  into  the  Wallamette  from  the 
west,  or  on  the  right-hand  as  you  ascend  the  river. 
This  river  rises  in  the  high  lands  towards  the  coast,  in  a 
number  of  Uttle  streams  which  water  the  beautiful  and 
somewhat  extensive  plains,  which  are  called  '*  The  Tu- 
ality Plains." 

This  river,  though  small,  will  ultimately  be  of  con- 
siderable importance  to  the  country,  as  it  can  easily 
be  made  navigable  for  boats  far  into  the  plains,  and  some 
of  the  smaller  branches,  thirty  and  forty  miles  from  the 
Wallamette,  may  be  advantageously  used  for  the  pur- 
pose of  driving  different  kinds  of  machmery.  Ten  miles 
above  the  Tuality  you  arrive  at  the  mouth  of  the  Molala 
and  Harchauke  rivers.  These  two  unite  but  a  short 
-distance  before  they  empty  into  the  Wallamette.  The 
Molala  rises  in  the  Cascade  mountains,  but  the  source 
of  the  Harchauke  is  in  a  lake  situated  midway  between 
the  Wallamette  river  and  the  base  of  that  range.  They 
both  water  extensive  and  beautiful  plains,  in  their  ser- 
pentine course  to  the  Wallamette. 

Fifteen  miles  above  these  rivers,  you  come  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Yamhill,  which  rises  in  the  Kilemook  hills 
towards  the  ocean  and,  after  meandering  for  thirty  or 
forty  miles  through  one  of  the  most  beautiful  portions 
of  the  Wallamette  valley,  and,  with  its  tributaries 
watering  the  extended  plains  through  which  it  flows,  it 
rushes  down  a  ledge  of  rocks  a  few  feet,  forming  a 
beautiful  cascade,  and  hastens  to  mingle  its  waters  with 
those  of  the  Wallamette.  Proceeding  up  the  stream, 
and  passing  a  number  of  small  ones  on  each  side,  after 
going  twenty- two  miles,  you  arrive  at  what  is  called 
Mill  Creek,  which  comes  into  the  Wallam,ette  from  the 
south-east  It  is  a  small  stream,  but  from  its  flowing 
through  a  beautiful,  excellent  and  central  portion  of  the 
valley,  and  affording  some  very  fine  water-privileges,  it 
is  regarded  as  being  a  very  important  branch  of  the 
Wallamette. 

Six  miles  above  this  comes  in  the  Rickreal,  from  the 
west,  which  can  also  boast  of  its  priviliges  for  milling 
operations,  and  of  watering  a  splendid  portion  of  the 
country. 


326  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

Eight  or  ten  miles  above  the  Rickreal,  comes  dancing 
down  into  the  Wallamette,  from  the  east,  the  ''  Santa 
Arn's  Fork,"  being  fed  by  the  numerous  rivulets  which 
rise  in  the  Cascade  range.  This  is  a  very  considerable 
stream,  and  from  the  facihties  which  it  offers  for  water 
power,  and  from  the  nature  of  the  country  through 
which  it  flows,  may  be  regarded  as  second  in  importance 
to  none  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Wallamette. 

Above  this,  as  far  as  you  are  disposed  to  advance,  the 
tributaries  of  the  Wallamette  are  numerous  on  each 
side,  but  resembhng  those  already  described  in  their 
sources,  dimensions  and  importance,  as  well  as  in  the 
nature  of  the  country  through  which  they  flow,  do  not 
require  to  be  separately  considered. 

The  principal  branch  of  the  Wallamette  rises  in  a 
snow-clad  mountain,  called,  by  British  fur  traders, 
"  Mount  McLaughlin,"  but  by  Mr.  Kelly,  an  American 
citizen,  "  Mount  Madison."  Its  general  course  is  north, 
and  after  running  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  it 
divides,  and  forming  a  long  narrow  Island,  called  Wap- 
pato  Island,  the  upper  channel  empties  into  the  Colum- 
bia six  miles  below  Fort  Vancouver,  and  ninety  miles 
from  the  Pacific  ocean,  and  the  lower  channel,  eighteen 
miles  below  the  upper  mouth.  It  has  been  generally 
supposed  that  the  Wallamette  river  runs  through  a  flat, 
sunken  country,  and  is  therefore  a  sluggish  and  muddy 
stream,  than  which  nothing  can  be  more  erroneous. 
True,  from  its  union  with  the  Columbia,  for  fifteen  miles 
up,  it  bears  that  character,  but  above  this,  the  general 
velocity  of  the  current  is  from  three  to  six  miles  an 
hour,  and  its  bed  is  either  gravel,  rock,  or  sand  ;  while 
nothing  can  exceed  the  cleanliness  and  beauty  of  its 
shores.  It  is  navigable  for  vessels  drawing  twelve  feet, 
fifteen  miles  above  its  upper  mouth,  and  for  steamboats, 
quite  up  to  the  Falls.  A  great  portion  of  the  year  it  is 
navigable  for  light  steamboats,  for  fifty  or  sixty  miles 
above  the  Falls.  In  fine,  the  Wallamette,  with  its  nu- 
merous tributaries,  arising  from  its  susceptibilities  of 
navigation,  its  boundless  water  privileges,  the  extent, 
beauty,  and  amazing  resources  of  the  country  which  it 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  329 

waters,  may  be  considered  as  the  most  interesting  and 
important  tributary  of  the  Columbia. 

This  great  artery  of  Oregon,  twelve  miles  below  the 
lower  mouth  of  the  Wallamette ,  receives  the  Cowilitz 
from  the  north,  the  last  river  of  any  magnitude,  which 
contributes  to  swell  its  mighty  flood,  till  it  reaches  the 
Pacific  ocean.  The  Cowilitz  rises  in  Mount  St.  Helen's, 
and  in  its  passage  to  the  Columbia,  flows,  in  a  rapid  cur- 
rent, through  a  valley  of  considerable  farming  impor- 
tance. 

The  Columbia  below  the  Cascades,  and  after  having 
swallowed  up  all  its  important  tributaries,  is  from  one 
mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half  in  width,  until  you  reach  to 
within  twenty-five  miles  of  the  ocean.  Here  it  opens  to 
the  width  of  four  or  five  miles,  forming,  on  the  south 
shore.  Swan  Bay.  In  this  bay,  or  rather  broad  space  of 
the  river,  are  a  number  of  low  sandy  islands  already 
formed,  while  others  appear  to  be  forming  in  various 
places.  At  the  foot  of  this  bay,  is  Tongue  Point,  which 
is  a  high  rocky  promontory  extending  into  the  river  from 
the  south  shore.  From  this  point  to  the  high  blufl"  on 
the  north  shore,  the  river  is  six  miles  wide.  Here  the 
ship  channel  runs  nearly  straight  across  the  river,  and  it 
generally  requires,  from  the  shallowness  and  intricacy 
of  the  channel,  two  or  three  days  to  pass  through  it. 
Below  Tongue  point,  the  river  again  widens  to  eight  or 
ten  miles,  and  a  deep  indentation  on  the  north  shoi'e,  and 
above  Chenook  point,  is  called  ''  Gray's  Bay,"  and  nearly 
opposite  and  between  Tongue  point  and  George's  point, 
and  ten  miles  from  the  mouth,  is  the  harbor  of  Astoria. 

Between  the  latter  point  and  Point  Adams,  is  Young's 
Bay,  which  extends  some  ways  back  inland,  and  receives 
a  river  called  Lewis'  and  Clark's  r-lver.  This  is  a  beautiful 
bay,  about  five  miles  broad,  and  the  ship  channel  passes 
directly  across  its  mouth.  After  swelling  out  and  form- 
ing the  two  bays  above  described,  the  river  becomes 
again  contracted,  so  that  from  Point  Adams  to  Chenook 
point,  it  is  only  five  miles  wide.  On  the  north  side, 
between  Chenook  point  and  Cape  Disappointment,  is 
Baker's  Bay,  which,  being  sheltered  from  the  winds  by 


330  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

the  high  lands  and  timber  which  surround  it,  is  a  safe 
and  comfortable  harbor.  The  distance  from  Point  Adams 
to  Cape  Disappointment  is  six  miles. 

From  the  former  is  a  channel  which  runs  straight  into 
the  ocean  in  nearly  a  south-west  direction,  and  no  where 
less  than  thirty  feet  deep  and  one  third  of  a  mile  wide. 
But  the  channel  generally  used,  both  for  ingress  and 
egress,  turns  north-west  from  Young's  Bay,  and  passing 
round  on  the  north-east  side  of  Sand  Island,  which  lies 
in  the  mouth  of  the  river  between  the  two  Capes,  takes 
a  sweep  around,  close  under  Cape  Disappointment,  and 
thence  in  a  southerly  direction  about  three  miles,  where 
it  unites  with  the  south  channel,  and  thus  becoming 
one,  their  course  across  the  last  and  most  formidable  bar 
of  the  Columbia,  is  south-west  by  west.  Between  the 
two  channels  there  is  an  extensive  bar,  or  island  of  sand, 
which  is  bare  at  low  water,  but  the  two  channels  to- 
gether encompass  this  on  all  sides. 

From  Point  Adams  and  from  the  shore  around,  and  a 
little  to  the  west  of  Cape  Disappointment,  and  converg- 
ing towards  each  other,  proceed  those  two  large  sand- 
bars, which,  meeting  at  the  distance  of  four  miles  from 
each  point,  form  that  fearful  obstacle  to  the  navigation 
of  these  waters — the  Bar  of  the  Columbia.  The  chan- 
nel across  this  bar  is  five  fathoms  deep  and  a  half  of  a 
mile  wide.  When  the  wind  is  high  from  the  south  and 
west,  the  waves  of  the  Pacific  and  the  torrents  of  the 
Columbia  meet  upon  this  bar  with  the  most  terrific 
violence,  producing  a  fine  of  breakers,  often  extending 
from  one  point  to  the  other,  and  calculated  from  their 
frightful  appearance  to  appal  even  the  heart  of  a  storm- 
beaten  sailor.  Vessels  bound  to  the  Columbia  have 
often  been  obliged  to  lie  off*  and  on  at  this  point,  for 
weeks  in  succession,  before  an  opportunity  offered  for 
them  to  cross  the  bar.  And  on  desiring  to  leave,  they 
have  sometimes  been  under  the  necessity  of  lying  snug 
under  the  lee  of  Cape  Disappointment  for  fifty  or  sixty 
days,  the  passage  out  meanwhile  being  continually  block- 
ed up  by  these  formidable  breakers.  This,  however,  is 
not  the  case,  except  in  the  winter  or  spring. 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  331 

Doubtless  there  are  rivers  in  the  world  which  afford  a 
greater  variety  of  fish,  than  this,  but  perhaps  there  are 
none  that  supply  greater  quantities.  Sturgeon  are 
caught  in  abundance,  but  salmon  is  the  principal  fish. 
Of  these  there  are  various  kinds,  but  m  this  country  they 
are  generally  distinguished  by  the  names  spring-salmon 
and  fall-salmon.  They  literally  fill  the  rivers  of  Oregon, 
in  their  season.  And  at  ail  the  falls  and  cascades  in  the 
various  rivers  of  the  country,  the  quantities  taken  and  that 
might  be  taken,  are  beyond  all  calculation.  As  they  pene- 
trate far  into  the  interior,  they  afford  almost  inexhaustible 
supplies  to  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  country,  as  well  as  the 
whites,  many  of  whom  depend  almost  entirely  upon  such 
supplies,  for  the  first  year,  after  settling  in  the  country. 
The  Umpqua  and  Clameth  rivers  both  rise  in  the  Cascade 
range,  and  both  empty  into  the  Pacific  ocean.  They  both 
pass  through  beautiful  and  extensive  valleys,  but  toward 
the  coast,  are  hemmed  in  by  mountains  of  rock. 

They  afford  also  abundant  supplies  of  salmon,  which 
are  caught  at  the  Falls  and  Cascades.  At  the  mouth  of 
the  Umpqua  is  a  harbor  into  which  small  vessels  may 
enter  in  safety,  wind  and  tide  favoring.  This  river  is 
navigable  for  small  steamboats  twenty-five  miles  from 
its  mouth. 

The  timber  of  Oregon  is  not  of  a  great  variety.  The 
only  forests  are  those  composed  of  fir.  This  kind  of 
timber  abounds  on  the  Columbia,  for  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  from  its  mouth,  among  the  mountains  that 
border  the  Pacific,  or  the  lower  parts  of  the  Umpqua 
and  Clameth  rivers,  in  various  parts  of  the  Wallamette 
valley,  and  along  the  base,  on  both  sides  of  the  Cascade 
mountains.  This  timber,  in  various  parts  of  the  country, 
grows  to  an  almost  incredible  size.  It  is  no  uncommon 
thing  to  find  trees  from  twenty-four  to  thirty-six  feet  in 
circumference,  and  three  hundred  feet  high.  One  was 
measured  near  Astoria  or  Fort  George,  and  was  forty- 
six  feet  in  circumference,  ten  feet  from  the  ground. 
This  tree  has  been  cut  down,  but  the  writer  has  ex- 
amined the  stump  and  is  certain   that  the  tree   has  not 


SSSJ  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

been  misrepresented.  If  possible,  on  the  Umpqua  ri^^er, 
the  fir  grows  longer  than  on  the  Columbia.  Here,  as 
also  in  some  parts  of  the  Wallamette  valley,  the  forests 
are  truly  magnificent. 

This  is  the  principal  timber  used  in  the  country,  both 
for  framing,  joinery  and  fencing  purposes.  Cargoes  of 
it  are  shipped  annually  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  where 
it  finds  a  ready  market  at  a  high  price.  Besides  this, 
there  is  a  species  of  the  yellow  pine,  which,  however,  is 
not  of  a  very  excellent  quality,  nor  does  it  grow  in  great 
abundance.  The  oak  is  quite  plenty  in  the  Wallamette 
and  the  Umpqua  valleys,  and  is  considered,  next  to  the 
fir,  the  most  valuable  timber  in  the  country. 

In  the  upper  parts  of  the  Wallamette  and  Umpqua 
valleys,  timber  is  very  scarce,  and  if  these  portions  are 
ever  settled,  as  doubtless  will  be  the  case,  building  and 
fencing  materials  will  be  brought  from  the  surrounding 
mountains,  a  few  miles  distant.  Along  the  rivers  of  this 
lower  country  may  also  be  found,  in  considerable  quan- 
tities, the  cotton-wood,  alder,  ash,  wdllow,  dog-wood, 
and  white  maple.  The  laurel  is  also  indigenous  to  the 
country,  and  cedar  of  an  inferior  quality,  abounds  in 
some  places. 

Beside  these,  there  is  a  variety  of  shrubbery,  among 
which  are  the  service-berry,  crab-apple,  hazle-nut,  and 
swamp  maple.  In  the  middle  region,  or  between  the 
Cascade  and  Blue  mountains,  timber  is  very  scarce  ;  the 
trees  are  generally  small,  and  of  soft,  useless  woods,  such 
as  cotton-wood,  sumach  and  willow,  and  found  only  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  streams.  In  the  Blue  mountains 
are  found  quantities  of  pine,  which,  in  the  event  of  the 
settlement  of  the  beautiful  valleys  of  the  middle  country, 
may  be  rafted  down  the  rivers,  which  pass  through  the 
mountains,  to  almost  any  point  below,  which,  indeed  is 
already  done  on  the  Clear  Water  and  Walla  Walla 
rivers.  But  many  parts  of  the  country,  and  particularly 
of  the  middle  region,  must  forever  remain  destitute  of 
timber,  and  if  ever  occupied  by  any  people  except  sava- 
ges, substitutes  for  building  and  fencing  purposes  must 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  333 

take  the  place  of  the  fine  fir,  oak,  pine  and  ash  of  the 
lower  country.  This  scarcity  of  timber  is  quite  a  draw- 
back on  many  portions  of  the  country. 

The  climate  of  Oregon  varies  materially  as  you  pro- 
ceed from  the  coast  into  the  interior.  To  a  proper 
understanding  of  the  nature  of  the  climate  of  this  coun- 
try, it  is  necessary  to  consider  the  winter  and  the  sum- 
mer separately  and  somewhat  particularly.  The  winds 
which  prevail  here,  as  in  every  other  part  of  Oregon  in 
the  winter,  are  from  the  south  and  east,  sometimes 
veering  to  the  south-west.  There  is  no  definite  period 
in  the  fall  when  these  winds  commence  blowing,  but  the 
diflferent  seasons  vary  much  in  this  respect.  Sometimes 
we  have  a  touch  of  them,  about  the  twentieth  of  Sep- 
tember, but  this  is  regarded  only  as  a  timely  monition  of 
what  we  are  subsequently  to  realize.  Some  seasons  these 
winds  set  in  for  good  about  the  tenth  or  fifteenth  of  Octo- 
ber, but  others,  they  do  not  come  till  late  in  November. 
It  is  impossible  to  calculate  precisely  when  they  will 
begin  to  blow,  or,  in  other  words,  when  an  Oregon  win- 
ter will  decidedly  set  in.  The  commencement  may  be 
considered  as  ranging  from  the  first  of  October  to  the 
first  of  January  ;  and  the  medium  is  about  the  middle  of 
November.  Sometimes  they  come  on  gradually,  but 
some  seasons  they  burst  upon  the  country  at  once,  and 
with  the  violence  of  a  thunder  storm.  These  winds 
always  bring  with  them  continued  falls  of  rain  ;  and 
therefore  the  period  of  their  continuance  is  properly 
called  the  rainy  season. 

Along  the  Pacific  coast  these  storms  are  more  violent 
and  the  rains  more  abundant  than  they  are  in  the  Walla- 
mette  valley.  When  fully  set  in,  these  rains  generally 
continue,  with  occasionally  a  very  short  interval,  for  two 
or  three  months,  and  sometimes  four,  after  which  there 
is  usually  a  month  of  warm,  pleasant  weather.  This 
comes  sometimes  in  February,  sometimes  in  March,  but 
is  generally  followed  by  three  or  four  weeks  of  cold, 
chilly  rains,  from  the  south  and  west.  During  the  latter 
part  of  winter,  there  are  generally  light  falls  of  snov; 
throughout  the  country,  though  in  the  valleys  and  particu- 


334  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

larly  in  the  Wallamette  valley,  it  seldom  falls  to  more 
than  two  or  three  inches  deep. 

Though  the  winters  are  disagreeable  on  account  of 
the  chilliness  of  the  south-east  winds,  and  the  extreme 
humidity  of  the  atmosphere,  yet  the  cold  is  very  mode- 
rate, the  mercury  seldom  falling  as  low  as  freezing  point. 
As  a  matter  of  course,  the  ground  is  seldom  frozen,  and 
therefore  ploughing  may  be  done  a  great  portion  of  the 
winter.  Occasionally,  however,  there  is  an  exception  to 
this.  At  one  time  the  mercury  fell  in  this  valley  to  five 
degrees  below  zero,  and  at  the  Dalls,  on  the  west  side 
of  the  Cascade  mountains,  fifteen  degrees.  As  this 
weather  lasted  for  several  days,  the  lakes  were  all  frozen, 
so  that  cattle  and  horses  could  pass  over  them  on  the  ice, 
and  the  Columbia  river  was  bridged  with  it  as  far  down 
as  the  mouth  of  the  Wallamette,  for  twelve  or  fifteen 
days.  But  this  was  principally  in  consequence  of  the 
extreme  cold  above  the  Cascades,  and  the  accumulation 
of  ice  in  that  region.  A  similar  circumstance  occurred 
in  1834. 

Considerable  snow  falls  every  year  in  the  region  of  the 
Cascade  mountains  and  around  the  Dalls  on  the  Colum- 
bia. In  the  middle  region,  or  from  the  Cascade  to  the 
Blue  mountains,  the  rains  begin  later  in  the  year,  are  less 
constant  and  heavy,  and  do  not  continue  so  late  in  the 
spring  as  in  the  lower  country.  In  the  latter  they  begin 
to  taper  off,  generally,  in  the  month  of  March,  but  con- 
tinue more  or  less  through  the  month  of  April. 

It  will  be  inferred  from  what  has  been  said,  that 
there  is  quite  a  difference  in  the  winters  of  Oregon. 
Some  are  vastly  more  rainy  than  others.  The  winters 
of  1844  and  1845  commenced  with  a  storm  on  the 
twelfth  day  of  October,  and  continued  with  a  storm  of 
great  and  uniform  violence  through  the  months  of  No- 
vember, December,  January  and  February  ;  then  taking 
a  ji^'espite  for  three  weeks  in  the  month  of  March,  it 
closed  with  a  storm,  which  continued  through  the  month 
of  April.  But  one-half  of  the  winters  in  Oregon  are  not 
characterized  by  as  much  falling  weather  as  is  frequentlv 
experienced  in  the  State  of  New  York,  and  are,  in  con- 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  335 

sequence  of  their  warmness,  decidedly  pleasant.  It  will 
be  understood  that  none  of  the  winters  of  this  country 
are  so  stormy  or  so  cold,  but  that  cattle  and  horses,  with 
all  other  animals  in  the  country,  subsist  on  no  other  feed 
than  is  found  on  the  open  prairies.  In  the  upper  country, 
or  in  that  portion  which  lies  immediately  west  of  the 
Rocky  mountains,  it  seldom  rains,  except  in  the  spring, 
and  then  it  is  not  protracted.  But  vast  quantities  of 
snow  fall  in  the  winter,  particularly  on  the  mountains. 
This  part  of  Oregon  is  extremely  dry,  which,  with  the 
vast  difference  in  temperature  between  the  day  and  the 
night,  forms  its  most  remarkable  trait,  at  least  so  far  as 
chmate  is  concerned.  Between  sunrise  and  noon  there 
is  a  difterence  of  from  forty  to  sixty  degrees  of  Fahren- 
heit. 

If  the  winters  of  Oregon  are  rather  stormy  and  un- 
pleasant, the  summers  are  sufficiently  delightful  to  coun- 
terbalance all  this.  In  the  months  of  March  and  April, 
the  weather  usually  becomes  sufficiently  warm  to  start 
vegetation,  so  that  thus  early  the  prairies  become  beauti- 
fully green,  and  many  of  Flora's  choicest  gifts  appear  to 
herald  the  approach  of  summer.  But  the  summer  winds 
do  not  generally  prevail  until  the  first  of  May.  These 
are  from  the  v^est  and  north,  and  there  is  seldom  any 
pleasant  weather  except  when  they  prevail.  And  after 
a  long  and  rainy  winter,  the  people  of  this  country  look 
for  the  cool  and  healthy  breeze  from  the  bosom  of  the 
Pacific  ocean  with  great  soUcitude.  At  length  the  wished 
for  change  takes  place  ;  the  howl  of  the  storm  and  the 
roar  of  the  southern  winds,  are  hushed  to  silence ;  the 
hills  and  valleys  are  gently  fanned  by  the  western  zephyr  ; 
and  the  sun,  pouring  his  floods  of  light  from  a  cloudless 
sky,  causes  nature,  as  by  enchantment,  to  enrobe  her- 
self in  all  the  glories  of  summer.  The  delightful  weather 
thus  ushered  in,  continues  with  but  Httle  variation,  through 
the  entire  summer. 

There  are,  however,  some  showers,  but  they  are 
much  "  like  angels'  visit's,  few  and  far  between."  Gene- 
rally in  the  months  of  July,  August  and  September,  the 
ground  becomes  exceedingly  dry.       But  the  few  rains 


336  ORECON    TERRITORY. 

that  fall  in  May  and  June,  with  the  moisture  which  is 
deposited  in  the  heavy  dews  of  the  valleys,  serve  to 
bring  the  grains  and  vegetables  to  maturity.  The 
temperature  of  the  summer  ranges  from  sixty-five  to 
eighty  degrees  at  noon,  in  the  shade,  but  the  evenings 
are  much  cooler.  There  are  few  nights  through  the 
summer,  in  which  a  person  would  be  too  warm,  covered 
with  two  quilts  and  a  flannel  blanket.  The  cool  evenings, 
however,  are  very  pleasant,  and  doubtless  go  far  to  neu- 
tralize the  effects  ojf  the  malaria  that  is  exhaled  through 
the  influence  of  the  sun,  from  the  swamp  and  marshy 
places,  which  are  found  in  various  parts  of  the  country. 
From  a  personal  experience  of  more  than  five  years, 
and  from  an  extensive  observation  in  reference  to  this 
particular,  the  writer  is  prepared  to  express  the  opinion 
that  the  climate  of  Oregon,  not  excepting  the  Walla- 
mette  valley,  is  decidedly  favorable  to  health.  And 
why  should  it  not  be?  The  temperature,  particularly 
in  this  lower  country,  is  remarkably  uniform.  This 
country  is  not  subject  to  the  evils  resulting  from  sudden 
changes  from  extreme  heat  to  extreme  cold,  as  in  some 
parts  of  the  States.  The  exhilarating  ocean  breeze, 
which  sets  in  almost  every  day  during  the  summer,  con- 
tributes greatly  to  purify  the  atmosphere.  These  cir- 
cumstances, connected  with  the  fact  that  there  is  but 
little  decaying  vegetable  matter  in  the  country,  and  but 
few  dead  swamps  and  marshes  to  send  forth  their  poi- 
sonous miasma  to  infect  the  surrounding  regions,  are 
sufficient  to  show  that  this  country  must  be  the  abode  of 
health,  and  that  human  life  is  as  likely  to  be  protracted, 
and  men  as  likely  to  die  with  old  age  in  this  country  as 
in  almost  any  other  in  the  world.  True,  the  Indians  are 
generally  diseased,  and  are  fast  dying  off,  but  their  dis- 
eases have  not  been  generated  in  this  country  ;  they  are 
the  result  of  their  connection  with  diseased  and  dissi- 
pated foreigners.  Formerly  it  was  not  so.  Besides  this, 
the  ague  and  fever,  which  attacks  many  of  the  whites 
who  come  to  settle  in  the  Wallamette  valley,  is  easily 
controlled,  and  finally  leaves  the  person  with  a  vigorous, 
unimpaired  constitution,  and  seldom  recurs  to  them  the 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  337 

second  season.  The  persons  in  this  country  who  appear 
to  be  the  most  healthy,  are  those  who  have  been  here 
the  greatest  length  of  time. 

The  members  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  gene- 
rally present,  in  the  fullness  and  flushness  of  their  fea- 
tures, the  corpulency  of  their  persons,  and  their  sinewy 
and  robust  limbs,  the  most  satisfactory  evidence  that  the 
climate  of  Oregon  must  be  friendly  to  the  promotion  of 
health.  Indeed,  but  very  few  white  persons  have  sick- 
ened and  died  in  this  country  since  its  first  occupancy 
by  such,  more  than  thirty  years  ago.  Though  these  are 
the  facts  in  reference  to  the  health  of  the  lower  country, 
even  yet  there  are  persons  in  the  States  who  are  ready 
to  publish  far  and  near,  that  the  climate  of  Oregon,  and 
particularly  of  the  Wailamette  valley,  is  "  decidedly 
unhealthy,"  that  "  the  most  malignant  and  fatal  fevers 
rage  in  the  country  ;"  than  which,  no  representation 
could  be  more  erroneous. 

It  will  be  readily  perceived  from  these  remarks,  that 
this  climate  is  well  calculated  for  wheat,  barley,  oats, 
peas,  apples,  potatoes,  turnips,  and  all  other  vegetables 
w^hich  are  cultivated  in  the  Middle  States.  Indian  corn, 
however,  does  not  succeed  very  well,  though  some  years 
considerable  is  raised.  The  country  is  exceedingly  favo- 
rable for  the  raising  of  horses,  cattle  and  hogs,  all  of 
which  thrive  and  multiply  beyond  all  conception. 

If  there  is  any  difference  in  regard  to  health  between 
the  different  portions  of  Oregon,  probably  the  middle 
region,  and  immediately  along  the  coast,  are  the  most 
healthy  parts. 

The  climate  of  the  Wailamette  valley  is  more  favora- 
ble to  agriculture  than  any  other  portion  of  the  country  ; 
but  that  of  the  middle  region  is  every  way  adapted  to 
purposes  of  grazing  and  to  all  the  pursuits  of  a  pastoral 
life. 

But  with  a  uniform  healthy  and  delightful  chmate, 
that  is  as  well  adapted  to  agricultural  purposes  as  any 
within  the  same  degrees  of  latitude  in  any  part  of  the 
earth,  Oregon  loses  much  of  its  interest,  if  the  fertility  of 
the  soil  is  not  in  keeping  with  the  nature  of  the  climate. 


338  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

The  soil  of  Oregon  has  been  variously  I'epresented  by- 
persons  who  have  traveled  through  the  country.  Some 
have  spoken  of  it  in  altogether  too  favorable  a  light,  while 
others  have  greatly  underrated  it.  Some  have  placed  it 
among  the  first  in  the  world  in  point  of  fertility,  and 
others  have  considered  Oregon  as  a  boundless  desert,  fit 
only  to  be  the  habitation  of  wild  beasts  and  savage  tribes. 
Some  have  viewed  it  as  a  second  Eden,  and  others,  one 
writer  in  particular,  denounces  it  as  a  ''God-forsaken 
country  that  never  was  designed  to  be  the  habitation  of 
a  Christian  or  civilized  man."  These  conflicting  repre- 
sentations arise  doubtless  from  a  superficial  acquaintance 
with  the  country.  They  have  either  not  continued  in 
the  country  a  sufficient  length  of  time  to  become  ac- 
quainted with  its  real  productiveness,  or  they  have  de- 
pended upon  that  information  which  has  been  artfully 
designed  to  prevent  the  true  nature  of  the  country  from 
being  known. 

To  a  proper  understanding  of  the  nature  and  produc- 
tiveness of  the  soil,  it  will  be  necessary  to  consider  it  as 
it  appears  in  different  portions  of  the  country.  As  the 
Clatsop  Plains  are  exciting  considerable  interest  at  the 
present  time  in  the  country,  a  description  of  them,  with 
a  view  to  the  examniation  of  the  soil,  is  desirable.  These 
plains  lie  on  the  south  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 
river,  back  of  that  point  of  land  which  is  know^n  by  the 
name  of  Point  Adams.  They  are  a  portion  of  that  low 
tract  of  country  which  lies  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  one 
of  whose  sides  is  washed  by  the  waves  of  the  Pacific, 
and  the  other  by  those  of  Young's  Bay  ;  while  its  base 
rests  against  the  range  of  mountains  extending  back  from 
Kellimook  Head,  and  its  point  or  apex  is  washed  by 
the  south  channel  of  the  Columbia.  The  height  of  this 
triangle,  or  the  distance  from  Point  Adams  back  to  the 
mountains,  is  about  twenty-five  miles,  while  the  mean 
width  is  probably  not  more  than  four  miles.  The  plains 
themselves  are  about  twenty  miles  long  and  from  one  to 
two  and  a  half  broad.  They  contain  about  forty  square 
miles.  They  lie  directly  on  the  shore  of  the  Pacific,  and 
command  a  fine  view  of  all  the  ships  that  pass  over  the 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  339 

bar  of  the  Columbia.  There  is  a  beautiful  sand-beach 
extending  their  entire  length,  which,  at  low  water,  forms 
a  firm  and  commodious  road.  Between  the  plains  and 
Young's  Bay,  there  is  a  tract  of  timber  land,  comprising 
about  twice  as  much  as  the  plains,  but  similar  in  every 
other  respect,  except  the  dense  forest  of  fir,  spruce, 
pine,  cedar,  hemlock  and  alder,  by  which  it  is  shaded. 
It  is  quite  probable  that  the  entire  tract  of  land  above 
described,  has  been  formed  by  the  vast  quantities  of 
sands  and  vegetable  substances  which  have  been  con- 
veyed from  time  immemorial,  by  the  Columbia  river  to 
the  ocean,  and  deposited  by  the  ceaseless  action  of  tide. 
The  evidences  of  this  are,  first,  the  fact  that  the  soil  is 
of  the  same  alluvial  character  that  appears  on  the  banks 
of  the  river  above  ;  secondly,  from  the  several  ridges, 
or  undulations,  which  curve  precisely  wdth  the  shore  of 
the  ocean,  and  all  of  which  appear  to  have  successively 
formed  the  boundary  of  the  deep  ;  and,  thirdly,  from 
the  fact,  that  shells  and  other  marine  substances  are 
found  deeply  embedded  in  the  sands  thus  deposited,  in  a 
perfect  state  of  petrifaction.  But  it  is  only  necessary 
for  a  man  to  walk  up  from  tide-water  to  the  ridge  near- 
est the  ocean,  and  cast  his  eye  over  the  gentle  undula- 
tions of  this  tract,  for  him  to  become  convinced  that  it 
has  been  redeemed  from  the  waters  of  the  Pacific. 
These  remarks  have  been  deemed  important,  in  oi'der 
to  show  the  true  nature  of  the  soil  of  this  important 
point  of  Oregon. 

It  will  be  perceived  that  the  foundation  of  the  soil  is 
sand.  In  some  places  this  sand  is  bare,  but  even  here, 
w^here  the  wdnds  admit  of  vegetation  taking  root,  its 
growth  shows  clearly  that  this  sand  is  far  from  being 
destitute  of  vegetative  properties.  On  the  plains,  how- 
ever, this  sand  is  covered  with  a  black  mould,  which  is 
from  six  to  ten  inches  deep,  and  w^hich  doubtless  has  been 
formed  by  the  constant  decay  of  the  various  kinds  of 
vegetation,  which  here  grow  in  abundance.  This  black 
mould,  with  a  portion  of  the  sand  beneath,  forms  a  rich 
and  productive  soil,  which,  from  its  proximity  to  the 
ocean,  and  perhaps  from  the  nature  of  the  soil  itself,  is 


340  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

not  so  well  adapted  to  wheat,  but  produces  potatoes, 
turnips,  and  indeed  all  kinds  of  vegetables  in  abundance. 
It  is  also  tolerably  well  adapted  to  the  raising  of  peas 
and  oats.  Cattle,  horses  and  hogs  thrive  on  this  soil  as 
well  as  in  any  part  of  Oregon. 

The  bottom-lands  of  the  Columbia,  from  the  Cascades 
to  the  ocean,  are  subject  to  an  annual  inundation  from 
the  great  rise  of  the  river,  occasioned  by  the  melting  of 
the  vast  quantities  of  snow,  which  fall  on  its  upper 
branches  among  the  mountains.  This  flood  continues 
through  the  month  of  June  and  into  July,  so  that  whatever 
may  be  the  fertihty  of  the  land  thus  overflown,  but  small 
portions  of  it,  without  immense  labor  and  expense,  will 
ever  be  brought  to  contribute  greatly  to  the  support  of 
man.  However,  those  portions  of  it  which  lie  above 
high  water,  are  remarkably  fertile,  and  produce  in  abun- 
dance, all  the  grains  and  vegetables  common  to  the  best 
portions  of  the  country.  Fort  Vancouver  is  situated  on 
the  most  choice  portion  of  this  tract,  and  here  a  farm  of 
two  or  three  thousand  acres  is  cultivated,  and  produces 
annually  several  thousand  bushels  of  grain.  Here  also 
apples,  pears  and  peaches  are  cultivated  successfully ; 
with  care  the  grape  also  is  brought  to  a  degree  of  per- 
fection. 

The  uplands,  or  timbered  lands,  differ  in  some  respects 
from  the  prairies.  Though  but  few  attempts  have  been 
made  to  cultivate  them,  yet  sufficient  has  been  done  to 
prove  that  the  soil  is  rather  of  a  superior  quality.  And, 
indeed,  this  is  attested  by  the  immense  growth  of  timber 
itself.  No  inferior  soil  could  send  forth  those  enormous 
trunks,  which,  in  their  upward  progress,  spread  their 
magnificent  branches  to  the  skies,  and  often  place  their 
heads  three  hundred  feet  from  the  ground.  Though  the 
cost  of  clearing  these  lands  is  great,  yet  time  will  doubt- 
less cause  the  richness  and  fertility  of  this  soil  to  contri- 
bute to  the  support  of  its  future  cultivators. 

The  soil  of  the  country  around  Puget's  Sound  is  of  a 
very  different  character.  The  country  to  appearance 
is  beautiful.  The  prairies  are  extensive  ;  the  harbor  is 
fine,  and  the  scenery  delightful ;  but,  strictly  speaking 


ORfiGON    TERRITORY.  34j 

there  is  no  soil  to  the  country.  The  prairies  are  all 
composed  of  shingle  land,  or  small  stone,  or  gravel,  with- 
out scarcely  any  mixture  of  soil.  Indeed,  there  are  but 
few  places,  and  these  are  very  small  spots,  where  any 
thing  can  be  raised.  Attempts  have  been  made  to  redeem 
it  from  its  native  barrenness,  but  as  yet  all  have  failed. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  transported  some  of  their 
surplus  population  at  Red  river,  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Rocky  mountains,  to  this  region  ;  but,  in  consequence  of 
the  amazing  sterility  of  the  country,  they  soon  became 
discouraged,  and,  contrary  to  the  wishes  of  the  Company, 
they  have  abandoned  the  place  and  have  settled  else- 
where. This  is  sufficient  to  show  the  nature  of  the  soil 
in  this  portion  of  the  country.  And  in  view  of  these  facts, 
how  has  it  come  to  pass  that  some  persons  after  having 
visited  this  region,  publish  it  as  being  distinguished  alike 
for  the  salubrity  of  its  cHmate  and  the  fertility  of  its 
soil  1  The  climate  indeed  is  delightful,  but  the  soil  is 
exceedingly  forbidding,  and  cannot,  perhaps,  be  re- 
covered from  its  extreme  barrenness. 

Of  all  the  different  parts  of  Oregon,  it  is  unquestionable 
that  the  Wallamette  valley  is  entitled  to  be  called  the 
garden  of  the  country,  so  far  as  the  fertility  of  its  soil  is 
concerned.  The  close  observer,  in  traveling  through 
this  valley,  will  discover  several  kinds  of  soil.  On  the 
lower,  or  first  bottoms,  in  some  places,  a  sandy  soil 
appears,  in  others,  a  kind  of  black  marl  or  loam.  There 
is  but  little  difference  in  the  productiveness  of  the  two 
kinds.  They  both  appear  to  be  the  alluvial  deposits  of 
the  Wallamette  river.  On  the  second  bottoms,  or  high 
prairies,  as  they  are  called  in  the  country,  the  soil  is  a 
dark  loamy  clay,  and  is  equally  as  strong  and  fertile  as 
that  on  the  lower  grounds.  Higher  up  the  river,  in  the 
region  of  the  Santa  Arn's  fork,  and  embracing  tracts  of 
considerable  extent,  you  come  to  a  gravelly  soil,  which 
is  less  productive  than  any  other  in  the  valley.  How- 
ever, this  last  embraces  but  a  small  proportion  of  the 
valley.  As  the  most  of  the  country  is  embraced  in  the 
high  prairies,  there  is  much  more  of  the  clayey  land  than 
of  any  other  kind.     But  the  goodness  of  the  soil  is  better 


342  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

ascertained  by  examining  the  crops  which  are  annually 
taken  from  the  land. 

The  writer  of  this  has  formerly  resided,  for  years 
together,  in  the  great  wheat  growing  country  of  the  State 
of  New  York,  and  has  been  an  attentive  observer  of  the 
amount  of  labor  necessary  to  be  performed  to  put  into 
the  granary  the  wheat  raised  from  an  acre  of  ground. 
He  has  also,  for  several  succeeding  years,  observed  the 
same  in  the  Wallamette  valley ;  and  the  result  of  these 
observations  has  brought  him  to  the  conclusion,  that  it 
requires  less  labor  in  this  country  to  raise  one  bushel  or 
a  thousand  bushels  of  wheat,  than  it  does  on  any  part 
of  the  Genesee  flats.  The  prairies  of  this  country,  in 
many  important  respects,  are  unlike  those  of  any  other 
country.  They  are  naturally  very  mellow,  and  appear, 
as  one  is  passing  over  them,  as  though  it  had  been  but  a 
year  or  two  since  they  were  cultivated.  They  are  not 
swarded  over  with  a  thick  strong  turf,  as  in  the  Western 
States.  They  can  be  easily  ploughed  with  one  good 
span  of  horses  the  first  time,  and  when  thus  ploughed, 
they  are  ready  to  receive  the  seed,  and  seldom  fail,  even 
the  first  crop,  of  yielding  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five 
bushels  per  Enghsh  acre.  The  first  crops  are  never  so 
good  as  the  succeeding  ones.  Farmers  have,  in  a  num- 
ber of  instances,  without  using  any  extraordinary  means, 
taken  from  fifty  to  sixty-five  bushels  of  wheat  from  an 
acre,  and  this  has  been  an  average  of  fields  containing 
from  ten  to  fifteen  acres.  But  this  is,  by  no  means,  the 
common  yield  after  the  first  crop,  though,  doubtless,  if 
farmers  in  this  country  would  cultivate  less  ground  and 
bestow  on  it  the  same  quantity  of  labor,  they  would 
realize  much  more  from  the  acre  than  they  now  do. 
Under  the  present  system  of  cultivation  in  this  country, 
the  average  amount  taken  from  the  acre  is  in  the  vicinity 
of  twenty-five  bushels. 

Unlike  any  other  portions  of  the  world,  a  good  crop 
of  wheat,  provided  the  seed  is  put  into  the  ground  in  its 
season  and  in  a  proper  manner,  is  as  sure  to  reward  the 
labor  of  the  husbandman,  as  that  day  and  night  will  con- 
tinue until  harvest  time.     This,  perhaps,  is  not  owing  so 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  343 

much  to  the  quahty  of  the  soil,  as  to  the  nature  of  the 
chmate.  And  it  is  difficult  to  conceive  of  any  circum- 
stance that  can  prevent  this  result,  so  long  as  the  present 
laws  of  nature,  which  regulate  the  seasons  of  Oregon, 
are  allowed  to  operate.  But  this  is  not  the  case  with 
regard  to  all  other  crops. 

Potatoes  frequently  fail  from  a  want  of  rain  the  latter 
part  of  the  season  ;  or,  if  they  do  not  entirely  fail,  the 
crops  are  often  very  light. 

This  is  the  case  with  all  spring  crops,  particularly  if 
the  seed  is  put  in  late.  They  are  liable  to  suffer  from 
drought  before  they  ripen  in  the  fall.  However,  during 
the  last  five  years,  there  has  not  been  a  failure  in  any 
of  the  crops.  Some  years  have  not  been  as  productive 
as  others,  in  the  spring  crops,  but  a  majority  of  the 
years,  these  have  all  succeeded  to  admiration,  with  the 
exception  of  Indian  corn.  This  valuable  species  of  pro- 
duce will  never  be  raised,  to  any  considerable  extent,  in 
this  country,  though  some  seasons  it  succeeds  tolerably 
well.  The  cool  nights  and  dry  summers  are  obstacles 
that  it  cannot  overcome.  The  soil  of  this  valley  as  well 
as  the  chmate,  is  well  adapted  to  the  raising  of  melons, 
squashes,  cucumbers,  beets,  cabbages,  and  all  kinds  of 
garden  vegetables.  Apples,  peaches,  and  other  kinds 
of  fruit,  flourish,  so  far  as  they  have  been  cultivated  ; 
and  from  present  appearances,  it  is  quite  likely  that  the 
time  is  not  far  distant,  when  the  country  will  be  well 
supplied  with  the  various  kinds  of  fruit  which  grow  in 
the  Middle  States. 

The  soil  of  the  middle  region  of  Oregon  differs  mate- 
rially from  that  of  the  low  country.  It  bears  one 
general  character,  and  consists  of  a  yellow  sandy  clay. 
It  produces  naturally  a  kind  of  bunch  grass,  which  is 
very  nutritious,  and  grows  in  abundance  on  the  vast 
plains  of  the  country  ;  and  here  are  also  a  variety  of 
small  shrubs,  and  the  prickly  pear.  Persons  in  passing 
through  the  country  along  the  banks  of  the  Columbia 
river,  are  hable  to  entertain  erroneous  views,  in  refer- 
ence to  the  fertility  of  this  region.  The  land  along  the 
river,   is   a  collection  of   sand  and   rocks,   than  which 


B44  ORJSGON    TEIiRlTORV. 

nothing  can  present  a  more  sterile  appearance.  But 
back  a  few  miles,  the  country  wears  a  different  aspect. 
And  judging  from  the  grass  and  herbage,  which  cover 
the  ground,  as  well  as  from  the  appearance  of  the  soil, 
the  land  may  be  pronounced  at  least  as  tolerably  good. 
It  is  on  the  extended  plains  of  this  region  that  the 
Kayuses  and  Nez  Perces  raise  their  immense  droves  of 
horses.  It  is  no  uncommon  thing  for  one  Indian  to  own 
fifteen  hundred  of  these  animals.  The  writer  once  had 
the  privilege  of  seeing  at  least  two  thousand  from  one 
eminence.  And  yet  this  portion  of  Oregon  has  been 
called  '*  a  barren  waste  ;  "  an  error  which  a  correct 
knowledge  of  the  country  will  certainly  correct. 

It  may  be  therefore  concluded,  as  it  has  been  already 
expressed,  that,  from  the  fertihty  of  the  soil  of  this 
region,  as  well  as  the  salubrity  of  the  climate,  as  a 
whole,  it  is  most  admirably  adapted  to  purposes  of 
grazing,  while  on  many  of  the  streams  agricultural  pur- 
suits might  successfully  be  prosecuted. 

On  the  Walla  Walla  and  Clear  Water  rivers,  attempts 
at  farming  have  been  made,  and  have  been  crowned 
with  success. 

The  upper  region  of  Oregon,  or  that  part  which  lies 
east  of  tlie  Blue  mountains,  is  less  fertile  than  the 
middle.  Though  the  soil  of  some  portions  of  it  is  toler- 
ably good,  yet  much  the  greater  proportion  of  the  plains 
are  either  covered  with  a  course  sand  or  gravel,  or  are 
so  strongly  impregnated  with  salts  of  various  kinds,  that 
it  would  be  perfectly  useless  to  make  any  attempts 
at  cultivation,  though  the  climate  might  be  ever  so 
favorable.  ^ 

What  has  often  been  said  of  Oregon  as  a  whole,  may 
be  said  in  truth,  of  this  portion  of  the  country,  namely, 
that  it  is  an  extensive  barren  waste,  not  capable  of  sup- 
porting more  than  a  very  small  number  of  inhabitants  ; 
but  this  remark  only  applies  to  the  third,  or  upper  region, 
of  this  vast  territory.  To  apply  it  to  that  half  of  Oregon 
which  extends  from  the  Blue  mountains  to  the  Pacific 
ocean,  would  be  doing  the  country  great  injustice.  For, 
instead  of  this  being  the  fact,  it  is  the  opinion  of  those 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  345 

who  have  been  longest  in  the  country,  and  consequently 
know  best  what  its  resources  are,  that  this  portion  is 
capable  of  sustaining  as  large  a  population,  as  all  of  the 
New  England  States.  In  fact,  the  resources  of  this 
country  are  great ;  and  it  is  only  necessary  for  them  to 
be  known,  to  be  duly  appreciated  by  the  people  of  the 
United  States.  A  single  consideration  only  is  necessary 
to  be  presented  to  show  what  the  country  would  be  capa- 
ble of  doing,  provided  it  was  filled  with  an  industrious 
population.     It  will  be  borne  in  mind  that  in  the  fall  of 

1843,  an  emigration  arrived  in  this  country  numbering 
from  eight  to  ten  hundred  persons,  most  of  whom  came 
so  late  that  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  get  locations 
where  they  could  raise  wheat  the  first  year,  and  were 
consequently  thrown  upon  the  resources  of  the  country. 
In  the  fall  of  1844,  another  emigration  arrived,  numbering 
from  seven  to  eight  hundred  persons.  These  all,  with 
the  entire  population,  depended  upon   the   products   of 

1844,  for  a  subsistence  until  the  harvest  of  1845.  Pro- 
bably not  more  than  one  quarter  of  the  whole  population 
had  cultivated  the  land  in  1844,  yet  they  were  all  sup- 
ported from  the  granaries  of  the  country  ;  fifteen  thou- 
sand bushels  of  wheat  were  shipped  to  the  Russian 
settlements  ;  one  thousand  barrels  of  flour  were  ex- 
ported to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  thousands  of  bushels 
yet  remained  in  the  country  unconsumed.  With  these 
facts  before  us,  it  does  not  require  half  an  eye  to 
see  that  Oregon  can  and  will  compete  with  any  other 
portion  of  the  world,  in  supplying  the  islands  of  the 
racific,  the  Russian  settlements,  and  every  other  flour 
market  contiguous,  with  their  bread  stufls,  which  usually 
bear,  in  these  portions  of  the  world,  a  handsome 
price. 

In  connection  with  this  it  may  be  remarked  that  beef 
and  pork  can  be  raised  in  this  country  with  greater  ease 
and  facility  than  wheat.  And  the  chmate  of  the  country 
being  favorable  for  salting  and  barreling,  the  time  is  not 
far  distant  w^hen  these  articles  also  will  be  exported  m 
abundance.  The  United  States  Navy  and  shipping  in 
general  in  the  Pacific,  can  be  supplied  with  these  articles 
15 


M6  OREGON    TfiRRITORY. 

of  consumption  from  this  country  more  reasonably,  per- 
haps, than  from  any  other.  Already  there  are  many 
settlers  in  this  valley  who  have  from  two  to  five  hundred 
head  of  cattle^  and  it  is  nothing  strange  for  a  man  to  be 
the  owner  of  a  hundred  hogs.  At  present,  however, 
from  the  great  influx  of  population,  these  kinds  of  pro- 
perty bear  a  high  price  in  the  country,  but  the  time  may 
be  anticipated,  when  the  home  market  will  not  be  so 
extensivCy  and  then  the  vast  supplies  from  this  quarter 
must  find  an  outlet. 

The  facilities  for  lumbering  in  the  country  have 
already  been  presented  ;  and,  in  addition,  it  should  be 
observed  that,  with  the  vast  amount  of  salmon  which 
may  be  barreled  annually,  and  the  products  of  dairies, 
for  conducting  which  the  country  offers  the  greatest 
facilities,  the  exports  of  Oregon,  in  proportion  to  the 
number  of  its  inhabitants,  may  equal  those  of  any  portions 
of  the  United  States. 

In  this  exhibition  of  the  wealth  and  resources  of  Ore- 
gon, there  is  one  more  subject  that  ought  not  to  be  over- 
looked, viz:  the  facility  with  which  a  man  comparatively 
poor,  can  place  himself  entirely  above  want.  Individuals 
have^  in  some  instances,  arrived  in  this  country  in  the 
month  of  September  ;  have  settled  immediately  on  some 
of  the  fine  prairies,  and  with  but  little,  except  good  health 
and  sound  limbs,  have  harvested,  the  following  season, 
of  their  own  sowing,  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty 
acres  of  w^heat. 

And,  indeed,  there  are  few  countries,  perhaps  none,  in 
which  a  poor  man,  when  once  he  has  surmounted  the 
difficulties  of  getting  here,  in  which  he  can  get  a  better 
living,  and  get  it  easier,  than  in  this.  Such  is  the  testi- 
mony of  every  person  who  tries  it  for  one  or  two  years. 
But  every  country  has  its  defects,  and  this  is  not  entirely 
free  from  them.  It  is  neither  the  garden  of  Eden,  nor 
is  it  a  barren  desert.  It  does  not  "  flow  with  honey,'* 
like  the  land  of  Canaan  ;  but  in  some  places  it  literally 
flows  with  milk.  And,  though  it  is  not  a  "  land  of  wine," 
yet,  in  the  more  necessary  articles  of  '*  corn  and  oil,"  it 
greatly  abounds. 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  347 

That  it  is  a  land  of  mountains  and  valleys,  of  rivers 
and  streams,  of  mighty  forests  and  extended  prairies,  of  a 
salubrious  and  healthy  climate,  and  a  rich  and  productive 
soil,  the  foregoing  remarks  will  clearly  show^.  In  fine, 
it  is  every  vv^ay  entitled  to  be  called  a  good  country. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


Oregon  territory  —  Its  history  —  Spanish  discoveries  — Measures  of  the  English  —  Sil 
Francis  Drake  —  Heceta  —  Isle  of  Grief — Bodega  discovers  Killemook  Head  — 
Discoveries  of  Captain  James  Cook  — Captain  John  Mearls--Cape  Disappoint- 
ment—  Robert  Gray,  of  Boston  —  First  visit  to  the  coast  —  Second  visit,  discovers 
the  Columbia  river — Captain  Vancouver — Braughton. 

When  America  was  first  discovered,  it  was  supposed 
to  constitute  the  eastern  limits  of  the  continent  of  Asia ; 
but,  as  discover}^  succeeded  discovery  in  quick  succes- 
sion during  the  first  twenty  years  after  the  arrival  of 
Columbus  in  1492,  the  astounding  fact  that  the  Genoese 
navigator  had  given  to  the  nations  of  Europe  a  vast  con- 
tinent, was  speedily  and  satisfactorily  established.  If 
there  remained  any  doubts  as  to  the  separation  of 
America  from  the  eastern  continent  on  the  minds  of  any, 
they  were  all  removed  after  Fernando  Magellan  had 
passed  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  ocean  through  the 
strait  which  separates  Patagonia  from  Terra  Del  Fuego, 
and  Vacco  Nunez  de  Balboa  had  discovered  the  placid 
waters  of  the  great  ocean  from  the  top  of  the  Andes,  at 
the  Isthmus  of  Darien.  Within  a  few  years  after  Magel- 
lan sailed  into  the  Pacific  ocean,  the  Spaniards,  under 
Hernan  Cortez,  discovered  and  made  a  conquest  of  the 
rich  and  populous  empire  of  Mexico,  and  soon  after  fol- 
lowed the  subjugation  of  Chili  and  Peru  to  the  authority 
of  Spain.  The  immense  amount  of  silver  which  the 
Spaniards  obtained  by  these  conquests,  excited  the  ava- 
rice of  others,  and  crowds  of  adventurers  of  different 
nations  and  under  daring  leaders,  came  over  and  tra- 
versed the  new  world  in  every  direction,  eager  to  acquire 
distinction  by  plundering  the  rich  countries  which  they 
might  discover.     Defeated  in  their  objects,  they,  how- 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  349 

ever,  collected  much  information  respecting  those  regions 
which  otherwise  might  not  have  been  explored,  perhaps, 
for  centuries. 

In  1532,  forty  years  after  the  discovery  of  Columbus, 
the  coast  of  the  American  continent  had  been  explored 
from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  Atlantic  side,  to  the 
Strait  of  Magellan,  and  on  the  Pacific  side  from  the  same 
Strait  to  a  place  called  Culiacan,  situate  near  the  eastern 
side  of  the  entrance  to  the  Gulf  of  California.  North- 
ward of  these  points,  both  of  which  are  near  the  twenty- 
third  degree  of  north  latitude,  nothing  as  yet  was  known 
of  that  vast  region  which  was  destined  to  teem  with  so 
many  millions  of  human  beings.  Up  to  1578,  the  Span- 
iards were  the  principal  actors  in  prosecuting  discoveries 
along  the  Pacific  coast.  Expeditions  were  fitted  out  by 
Cortez  and  by  his  successor  in  the  viceroyalty  of  Mexico, 
Don  Antonio  de  Mendoza,  which  sailed  northward  from 
time  to  time,  touching  at  various  points  along  the  coast, 
but  making  no  important  discoveries  until  1539,  when 
Francisco  de  Ulloa,  under  the  direction  of  Mendoza, 
sailed  from  Acapulco,  north,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertain- 
ing the  situation  and  extent  of  that  country  which  by 
this  time  began  to  be  called  California. 

Ulloa  discovered  that  California  was  a  continuity  of 
the  American  continent ;  for  up  to  this  time  it  was  not 
known  whether  it  was  connected  with  Asia  or  America, 
or  whether  it  was  not  a  country  by  itself.  There  is 
satisfactory  evidence  that  some  of  these  early  explorers 
saw  the  coast  up  as  high  as  the  thirty-fourth  degree  of 
north  latitude,  and  in  1543,  a  navigator  by  the  name  of 
Ferrelo,  is  said  to  have  extended  his  discoveries  as  far 
up  as  the  forty-third  parallel,  and  about  the  same  time  a 
land  expedition  was  fitted  out  under  Hernando  de  Soto, 
and  performed  a  memorable  march  through  the  then  un- 
known regions  north  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  till  they 
reached  the  fortieth  parallel  of  latitude,  and  then  turning 
east,  they  fell  in  with  the  Mississippi  river  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Ohio,  and  descended  it  in  boats  back  to  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  which  they  succeeded  in  crossing  in 
open  boats  ;  and  the  few  that  survived  the  fatigues  and 


3^0  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

perils  of  the  enterprise,  finally  reached  Pameco  in  safety. 
This  expedition  had  a  two-fold  object  in  view,  which 
was,  first,  to  discover  wealthy  nations  to  subjugate  like 
those  of  Mexico  and  Peru,  and,  second,  to  ascertain 
whether  there  were  no  navigable  passages  between  the 
Atlantic  and  Pacific  oceans,  somewhere  north  of  the 
Mexican  Gulf.  Being  defeated  in  both  these  objects,  the 
Spaniards  desisted  from  any  farther  efforts  to  explore  the 
north-west  coast  of  the  American  continent,  and  did  not 
renew  their  efforts  for  nearly  half  a  century  afterwards. 

Though  for  the  present  they  ceased  to  explore  the 
north-west  division  of  the  New  World,  yet  the  commerce 
of  the  Spaniards  in  the  Pacific  ocean  was  continually 
increasing,  and  their  "Government  was  adopting  those 
measures  of  restriction  and  exclusion  which  were  main- 
tained with  so  Httle  relaxation  during  the  whole  period 
of  its  supremacy  in  the  American  continent."  *  *  * 
"  The  great  object  of  its  policy  was  to  secure  to  the 
people  of  Spain  the  perpetual  enjoyment  of  all  the  advan- 
tages which  could  be  derived  from  the  territories  claimed 
by  them,  and,  with  that  view,  it  was  considered  absolutely 
necessary,  not  only  to  prevent  the  establishment  of  for- 
eigners in  any  part  of  those  territories,  but  also  to  dis- 
courage the  rapid  advancement  of  the  Spanish  provinces 
themselves,  in  population,  wealth  or  other  resources. 
Agreeably  to  these  ideas,  the  settlement  and  even  the 
exploring  of  new  countries  in  America,  were  restrained  ; 
colonies  were  rarely  allowed  to  be  planted  near  the 
coast,  unless  they  might  serve  for  purposes  of  defence, 
and  when  voyages  or  journeys  of  discovery  were  made, 
the  results  were  generally  concealed  by  the  government. 
The  subjects  of  all  foreign  nations  were  prohibited,  under 
pain  of  death,  from  touching  the  section  of  the  New 
World  supposed  to  belong  to  Spain,  or  from  navigating 
the  seas  in  its  vicinity." 

About  this  time,  1570,  the  principles  of  civil  and  reli- 
gious liberty  were  beginning  to  operate  in  England. 
They  no  longer  acknowledged  the  Pope  of  Rome  as  their 
spiritual  head,  nor  did  they  stand  in  fear  of  his  fulmina- 
tions.      And,    though   the   successor   of  St.  Peter   had 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  351 


granted  to  Spain  a  great  part  of  the  American  continent, 
and,  as  far  as  possible,  had  confirmed  her  in  her  posses- 
sions, yet  the  Enghsh  murmured  bitterly  against  these 
excluding  regulations  of  the  Spanish  government,  and 
required  ''  an  acknowledgment  of  their  right  to  occupy 
vacant  portions  of  America,  and  to  trade  with  such  as 
were  already  settled." 

These  reasonable  demands  were  refused  by  the  Span- 
ish government,  and  the  Queen  of  England  encouraged 
her  subjects,  openly  and  secretly,  to  violate  laws  which 
she  declared  to  be  unjustifiable  and  inhuman.  Accord- 
ingly, on  the  Atlantic  side  of  the  continent,  we  see 
these  restrictive  laws  immediately  violated  by  bands 
of  daring  English,  and,  in  the  name  of  free-traders  and 
free-hooters,  who  set  the  Spaniards  at  defiance,  plunder- 
ing their  ships  and  some  of  their  towns  along  the  coast 
From  the  reports  concerning  the  importance  of  the  com- 
merce of  the  Pacific,  the  English  had  long  desired  to 
share  in  its  advantages,  and  at  length  all  their  dread 
of  the  difficulties  and  dangers  of  the  passage  through  the 
strait  of  Magellan  were  overcome,  and  there  appeared 
on  the  waters  of  the  Pacific  the  most  renowned  naval 
captain  of  the  age.  This  captain  was  Francis  Drake  ; 
and,  as  an  opinion  has  prevailed  that  he  eflfected  im- 
portant discoveries  on  the  coast  of  Oregon,  it  will  be 
proper  to  notice  his  movements  while  he  remained  on 

this  coast.  ^^  ^       ^^ 

Mr.  Greenhow  in  his  able  memoirs,  has  collected  all 
the  evidences  of  Drake's  discoveries  on  this  coast,  and 
from  an  account  of  his  voyage  by  his  chaplain,  and  from 
nearly  all  the  biographical  sketches  of  the  hero  for  a 
century  after  his  voyage  had  been  accomplished,  and 
from  the  contradictions  of  those  writers  who  attempt  to 
establish  the  opposite,  he  arrives  at  the  conclusion  that 
"the  English  under  Drake,  in  all  probabiUty  saw  no 
part  of  the  west  coast  of  America  north  of  the  forty- 
third  degree  of  north  latitude." 

Drake's  visit  to  this  coast  took  place  in  1579,  and 
proceeding  as  high  up  as  the  forty-third  degree,  and 
finding  the  weather  cold  and  boisterous,  and  knowing 


852  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

that  his  ship  needed  repairing  before  he  could  return  to 
England,  he  turned  about,  and  retracing  his  steps  as  far 
back  as  the  thirty-eighth  degree,  entered  the  bay  now 
called  "  San  Francisco,"  where  he  spent  the  remainder 
of  the  winter.  The  following  spring  he  put  again  to 
sea,  and,  by  the  way  of  China  and  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  returned  to  England,  where,  immediately  after 
his  arrival,  for  his  wonderful  voyage  and  marvelous 
exploits,  he  was  knighted  by  Queen  Elizabeth,  on  the 
deck  of  his  own  ship.  Doubtless  the  character  of 
Drake  as  a  hero  and  a  great  navigator,  is  well  founded  ; 
but  the  assertion  that  he  explored  the  whole  extent  of 
this  coast,  and  discovered  the  Columbia  river,  is  a  fabri- 
cation, and  is  entitled  to  no  more  credit  than  the  fabled 
voyage  of  Maldorado  from  the  north-west  coast,  acros, 
the  continent,  into  the  Atlantic  ocean. 

That  Francis  Drake  is  not  entitled  to  the  credit  ol 
being  the  first  discoverer  of  the  coast  as  far  up  as  tht 
forty-third  degree,  appears  from  an  account  of  a  voyage, 
performed  by  Cabrillo  and  Ferrelo,  two  Spaniards,  in 
1543,  thirty-six  years  before  the  voyage  of  Drake.  In 
the  month  of  March  they  sailed  to  the  forty-fourth 
degree,  and  in  consequence  of  the  suffering  of  their 
crews  from  cold,  fatigue,  and  want  of  proper  nourish- 
ment, they  resolved  to  proceed  no  farther  northward,  and 
accordingly  directed  their  course  towards  the  south.  * 
These  were  probably  the  first  white  men  that  ever  saw 
any  of  the  land  embraced  in  the  territory  of  Oregon, 
and  they  saw  only  about  two  degrees  of  the  coast,  at 
the  south-west  corner. 

The  next  discoveries  of  importance  made  on  the  coast 
of  Oregon,  were  by  a  Spanish  navigator,  by  the  name 
of  Heceta,  in  1774.  He  was  sent  by  the  viceroy  of 
Mexico  from  San  Bias,  to  explore  the  coast  north  of 
the  forty-third  parallel,  and  succeeded  in  reaching  a? 
high  up  as  the  fifty-fourth  degree,  where  he  made  land, 
probably  the  north-west  part  of  Queen  Charlotte's  Island. 
From  this  point  he  turned  southward,  entei^ed  a  fine  bay 

*  See  Greenhow's  Memoirs. 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  353 

in  latitude  forty-nine  and  one-half,  and  proceeding  down 
along  the  coast,  saw  land  occasionally,  but  does  not 
appear  to  have  minutely  examined  the  shore,  and  arrived 
at  Monterey  on  the  27th  of  August. 

The  following  year  another  expedition  was  fitted  out, 
and  Heceta  was  intrusted  with  the  command.  He  pro- 
ceeded northward,  touched  at  port  Trinidad  in  latitude 
forty-one,  where  he  communicated  with  the  natives, 
and,  on  leaving,  erected  a  cross  with  an  inscription  set- 
ting forth  the  rights  of  the  Spanish  government  to  the 
country  discovered.  From  this  point  he  continued  north 
as  high  as  the  forty-eighth  or  forty-ninth  degree,  then 
turned  east,  and  soon  saw  land,  which  was  probably  the 
south-west  side  of  Vancouver's  Island,  at  the  entrance 
of  the  Strait  of  Fuca. 

Not  being  able  to  examine  this  part  of  the  coast,  they 
were  driven  southward  to  within  eighty  miles  of  the 
Columbia  river,  where  they  came  to  anchor  inside  of  a 
small  island,  near  the  main  land.  Here  they  met  with 
a  cruel  misfortune.  They  sent  some  of  their  men  on 
shore  to  search  for  water,  and  while  in  the  discharge  of 
their  duty,  they  were  surrounded  by  savages  and  imme- 
diately murdered.  As  they  were  numerous,  the  Indians 
immediately  put  off  in  their  canoes  to  the  ships,  evidently 
with  the  intention  of  taking  them  and  destroying  the 
crews.  But  the  Spaniards  finally  succeeded  in  prevent- 
ing them  from  boarding ;  and  on  their  departure,  in 
commemoration  of  the  event,  the  island  was  called  the 
Isle  of  Grief  At  the  same  place,  and  in  the  same  man- 
ner, twelve  years  afterwards,  some  of  the  crew  of  an 
English  ship  were  destroyed,  and  by  them  the  island 
was  called  Destruction  Island.  After  this  disaster, 
Heceta  continued  southward  along  the  coast,  and  disco- 
vered the  promontory  which  now  bears  the  name  of 
Cape  Disappointment,  but  which  the  Spaniards  called 
Cape  San  Roque.  Directly  south  of  this,  and  under  the 
parallel  of  forty-six  degrees  sixteen  minutes,  he  saw  an 
opening  in  the  land,  which  appeared  to  be  a  harbor,  or 
the  mouth  of  some  river.  As  Heceta  did  not  enter  this 
harbor,  the  existence  of  the  river  subsequently  was 
15* 


354  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

more  a  matter  of  conjecture  than  of  certainty,  though 
it  was  put  down  on  the  Spanish  maps  by  the  name  of 
Rio  de  San  Roque.  From  these  circumstances,  it  is  at 
least  inferable  that  Heceta  and  his  companions  were 
the  first  civilized  men  that  ever  saw  the  Columbia  river. 

During  the  same  year,  1775,  another  Spanish  naviga- 
tor, by  the  name  of  Bodega,  made  the  Oregon  coast 
about  thirty  miles  south  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 
The  land  first  seen  by  them  was  the  high  promontory 
now  known  by  the  name  of  Kilemook  Head  ;  but  which 
the  Spaniards  called  Cape  Mizani.  Bodega  examined 
the  coast,  from  this  point  to  Cape  Mendocino,  in  search 
of  a  large  river,  said  to  have  been  seen  by  Aguilar,  in 
1603.  But  not  succeeding  in  his  attempts,  he  took  his 
departure  from  this  part  of  the  coast  and  returned  to 
Monterey. 

The  next  discoveries  on  the  Oregon  coast  were  made 
by  the  celebrated  Captain  James  Cook,  an  English  navi- 
gator, in  1778.  This  enterprising  man  left  England 
early  in  the  summer  of  1777,  and  arrived  on  the  Ameri- 
can coast  in  March,  1778.  The  primary  object  of  his 
voyage  was  the  discovery  of  a  north-west  passage  from 
the  Pacific  ocean  to  the  Atlantic,  an  object  which  long 
engaged  the  attention  of  England  and  Spain.  To  accom- 
plish this  object,  he  was  to  explore  the  whole  extent 
of  coast,  from  the  forty-fifth  degree  as  far  north  as  the 
weather  and  ice  would  allow  him  to  proceed.  He  first 
made  land  near  the  forty-second  degree  of  latitude  ;  but 
by  the  violence  of  storms,  was  driven  still  farther  to  the 
south.  However,  the  wind  becoming  more  favorable, 
he  proceeded  on  his  course  to  the  northward,  and  on  the 
22d  of  March,  he  found  himself  in  sight  of  the  coast  a 
little  beyond  the  forty-eighth  degree.  The  land  here 
discovered  by  Cook  was  the  projecting  point  of  the  con- 
tinent at  the  entrance  of  the  strait  of  Juan  De  Fuca,  to 
which  he  gave  the  name  of  Cape  Flattery,  and  which  is 
the  north-west  corner  of  Oregon  territory.  Cook  ex- 
amined the  coast  a  few  miles  south  of  this  point ;  but  not 
succeeding  in  his  object  here,  he  soon  continued  north, 
and  in  latitude  forty-nine  and  a  half,  cast  anchor  in  a 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  355 

spacious  and  secure  harbor,  to  which  he  subsequently 
gave  the  name  of  Nootka  Sound.  Here  he  continued 
several  wrecks,  during  which  he  held  constant  intercourse 
with  the  Indians,  who  appeared  to  be  no  strangers  to 
white  men  ;  and  after  making  the  necessary  repairs,  and 
taking  in  wood,  water  and  refreshments,  he  again  steered 
to  the  northward  to  buffet  the  ice  and  storms  of  the 
Arctic  Ocean,  in  a  vain  attempt  to  discover  a  north-west 
passage.  Thus  terminated  his  discoveries  on  the  Oregon 
coast.  He  was  subsequently  basely  murdered  by  the 
natives  of  Hawaii. 

It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  this  usually  fortunate  navi- 
gator and  discoverer  was  driven  past  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  river,  by  a  storm,  during  the  night. 

There  seems  to  have  been  but  little  notice  taken  of  the 
Oregon  coast  during  the  ten  years  which  followed  the 
discoveries  of  Cook,  though  at  this  time  the  coast  farther 
north  was  very  well  known.  As  Nootka  Sound  was 
known  to  be  a  good  harbor,  after  Cook's  account  of  his 
voyage  was  made  public,  vessels,  in  visiting  this  region, 
generally  steered  their  course  for  that  place.  But  in 
1788,  Captain  John  Meares,  an  Englishman,  fitted  out 
an  expedition  at  Macao  for  the  purpose  of  discovering 
the  harbor,  or  river,  or  rather  opening,  which  was  first 
seen  by  Heceta,  in  1775,  and  subsequently  noticed  on 
the  Spanish  maps,  by  the  name  of  the  Rio  De  San  Roque. 
The  principal  object  that  Meares  had  in  view,  on  this 
part  of  the  coast,  was  to  ascertain  w^hether  there  was 
such  a  river  in  existence  ;  and  the  account  which  he  has 
given  of  his  discoveries,  at  this  point,  will  show  the  un- 
reasonableness of  the  claims  of  the  English,  to  be  the 
first  to  ascertain  the  fact  of  the  existence  of  the  Columbia 
river.  In  latitude  forty-six  degrees  and  forty-seven 
minutes,  he  discovered  a  head-land  which  he  called  Cape 
Shoal  Water,  and  proceeding  south  along  the  coast,  he 
says  —  "An  high  bluff  promontory  bore  us  off  south-east, 
at  the  distance  of  only  four  leagues,  for  which  we  steered 
to  double,  with  the  hope  that  between  it  and  Cape  Shoal 
Water,  we  should  find  some  sort  of  harbor.  We  now 
discovered  distant  land  beyond  this  promontory,  and  we 


356  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

pleased  ourselves  with  the  expectation  of  its  being  Cape 
Saint  Roc  of  the  Spaniards,  near  which  they  are  said  to 
have  found  a  good  port.  By  half-past  eleven  we  doubled 
this  Cape  at  the  distance  of  three  miles,  having  a  clear 
and  perfect  view  of  the  shore  in  every  part,  on  which 
we  did  not  discern  a  living  creature,  or  the  least  trace 
of  habitable  life.  A  prodigious  easterly  swell  rolled  on 
the  shore,  and  the  soundings  gradually  decreased  from 
forty  to  sixteen  fathoms,  over  a  hard  sandy  bottom. 
After  we  had  rounded  the  promontory,  a  large  bay,  as 
we  had  imagined,  opened  to  our  view,  that  bore  a  very 
promising  appearance,  and  into  which  we  steered  with 
every  encouraging  expectation. 

"  The  high  land  that  formed  the  boundaries  of  the  bay 
was  at  a  great  distance,  and  a  flat  level  country  occupied 
the  intervening  space  ;  the  bay  itself  took  rather  a  west- 
erly direction.  As  we  steered  in,  the  water  shoaled  to 
nine,  eight,  and  seven  fathoms,  when  breakers  were  seen 
from  the  deck  right  ahead,  and  from  the  mast-head  they 
were  observed  to  extend  across  the  bay  ;  we,  therefore, 
hauled  out  and  directed  our  course  to  the  opposite  shore, 
to  see  if  there  was  any  channel,  or  if  we  could  discover 
any  port. 

'*  The  name  of  Cape  Disappointment  was  given  to  the 
promontory,  and  the  bay  obtained  the  title  of  Deception 
Bay.  By  an  indifferent  meridian  observation,  it  lies  in 
the  latitude  of  forty-six  degrees  and  ten  minutes  north, 
and  in  the  computed  longitude  of  235  degrees  and  34 
minutes  east.  We  can  now  with  safety  assert,  that  there 
is  no  such  river  as  that  of  Saint  Roc  exists,  as  laid  down 
in  the  Spanish  charts." 

It  follows,  from  this  account  of  Captain  Meares,  first, 
that  he  became  fully  convinced,  from  personal  observa- 
tion, that  no  great  river  entered  the  Pacific  ocean  from 
the  American  continent  at  this  point.  And,  second,  that 
no  such  river  had  previously  been  discovered  by  English 
navigators,  and  that  the  assertion,  that  "  the  Columbia 
was  discovered  by  Captain,  afterwards  Sir  Francis 
Drake,"  must  be  totally  unfounded.  For,  if  the  latter 
captain  had  made  this  discovery,  the  fact  must  have  been 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  357 

known  by  Captain  Meares,  and  he  would  not  have  been 
SO  ready  to  decide  that  "  no  such  river  exists."  The 
truth  appears  to  be  this — up  to  the  year  1788,  it  was  not 
known  by  any  civiHzed  nation,  that  the  great  Colum- 
bia had  an  existence  on  the  face  of  the  globe. 

The  citizens  of  the  United  States  appear  to  have  taken 
no  part  in  the  discoveries  on  the  north-west  coast,  and  in 
the  trade  opened  by  such  discoveries  previously  to  the 
year,  1788.  At  that  time  a  company  of  merchants  from 
Boston,  sent  two  ships  around  Cape  Horn,  commanded 
respectively  by  Captain  Robert  Gray  and  Captain  John 
Kendrick. 

The  names  of  these  vessels  were,  the  Columbia  and 
Washington.  These  were  the  first  American  ships  that 
visited  the  north-west  coast.  After  weathering  a  violent 
storm  in  which  the  Columbia,  which  Kendrick  com- 
manded, received  some  injury,  they  proceeded  to 
Nootka  Sound,  where  both  vessels  spent  the  winter. 
The  object  of  this  expedition  was  to  collect  the  fine  and 
valuable  furs  with  which  the  country  abounds,  and  ship 
them  to  Canton. 

While  these  two  American  ships  were  in  this  part  of 
the  ocean,  there  was  considerable  difficulty  between  the 
Spaniards  and  the  English,  in  reference  to  which  had  the 
best  right  to  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Nootka  Sound. 
In  the  settlement  of  this  difficulty,  the  American  captains 
took  an  active  and  efficient  part,  and  from  an  under- 
standing of  the  whole  affair,  were  of  the  opinion  that, 
from  a  previous  discovery  and  occupancy,  the  Spanish 
claims  were  well  founded,  and  that  the  possession  of  the 
country  was  an  .unjustifiable  arrogancy  upon  the  part 
of  the  British.  But  it  is  no  part  of  the  object  of  this 
sketch  to  investigate  the  subject  of  these  conflicting 
claims.  The  Columbia  and  Washington  continued  on 
the  coast  until  the  month  of  August,  1789,  when  it  was 
determined  between  them,  that  Captain  Gray  should 
take  the  command  of  the  Columbia  and  proceed  to  China 
and  the  United  States,  with  all  the  furs  which  had  been 
collected,  and  Kendrick  should  remain  on  the  coast  in 
the  Washington. 


358  OREGON    TERRRITORY. 

Gray  accomplished  this  voyage  in  safety,  and  on  the 
27th  day  of  September,  1790,  again  left  Boston  in  the 
same  ship  for  the  north-west  coast,  and  sometime  in 
May  of  1791,  made  land  a  little  to  the  north  of  Cape 
Mendocino,  or  near  the  forty-first  degree  of  north  lati- 
tude. While  proceeding  northward  tow^ards  Nootka,  Cap- 
tain Gray  discovered  an  opening  in  the  shore  of  consider- 
able width  in  latitude  forty-six  degrees  sixteen  minutes, 
from  which  issued  a  strong  current  which  prevented  his 
entrance.  He  continued  off  against  this  opening  for  nine 
days,  with  an  intention,  if  possible,  to  enter  it,  but  the 
strength  of  the  current  and  probably  from  the  appearance 
of  the  breakers  which  previously  had  frightened  Meares, 
he  was  unable  at  this  time  to  accomplish  his  object. 
Though  convinced  that  he  had  discovered  the  mouth 
of  a  great  river,  without  waiting  longer  for  an  oppor- 
tunity to  enter  it,  he  proceeded  to  the  north,  and  in 
June  arrived  at  Nootka  Sound.  From  this  point  Gray 
continued  his  course  north,  and  after  making  some  im- 
portant discoveries  in  the  vicinity  of  Queen  Charlotte's 
Island,  returned  to  Clyoquot,  near  Nootka,  where  he 
continued  during  the  winter.  Captain  Kendrick  in  the 
meantime  had  stayed  on  the  coast,  and  about  the  time 
that  Gray  went  into  winter  quarters,  he  set  sail  for  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  where  he  first  opened  a  traffic  with 
the  natives,  in  the  article  of  sandal-wood.  Though 
Kendrick  first  opened  this  trade,  he  did  not  long  Hve  to 
enjoy  the  benefit  of  his  discovery,  but  in  1793,  was  mur- 
dered by  the  Islanders. 

In  the  spring  of  1792,  the  discoveries  on  the  coast  of 
Oregon  were  prosecuted  both  by  the  English  and 
Americans.  In  the  middle  of  April,  Captain  Vancouver 
arrived  on  the  coast  with  two  ships  under  his  command, 
and  commencing  at  Cape  Mendocino,  explored  the  whole 
extent  of  coast,  as  he  proceeded  to  the  north,  and  passed 
the  opening  which  Gray  attempted  to  enter  in  latitude 
forty-six  degrees  sixteen  minutes,  without  considering  it 
as  being  worthy  of  his  particular  attention,  on  account 
of  the  forbidding  appearance  which  it  presented.  In 
his  progress  northward  he  says,  that,  ''  the  coast  was  so 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  359 

minutely  examined  that  the  surf  was  constantly  seen  to 
break  on  its  shores  from  the  mast-head.  And  yet,  that 
he  saw  no  appearance  of  an  opening  in  its  shores,  which 
presented  any  certain  prospect  of  affording  shelter." 
On  his  way  up  the  coast  he  fell  in  with  the  ship  Colum- 
bia, Captain  Gray,  who  had  just  left  his  wintering  place 
at  Clyoquot.  In  their  interview.  Gray  informed  Van- 
couver that  the  previous  summer  he  had  been  off  the 
mouth  of  a  river  in  latitude  forty-six  degrees  ten  minutes, 
where  the  outset  was  so  strong  as  to  prevent  his  entering 
for  nine  days.  In  referring  to  this,  Vancouver  says,  that 
"  this  was  probably  the  opening  passed  by  us  on  the 
forenoon  of  the  27th,  and  was  apparently  inaccessible, 
not  from  the  current,  but  from  the  breakers  that  extend 
across  it."  He  also  observes  that  he  was  thoroughly 
convinced,  as  were  most  persons  on  board,  that  he  could 
not  have  passed  any  harbor  or  place  of  security  for 
shipping,  from  Cape  Mendocino  to  Cape  Flattery. 

From  this  it  appears  that  Captain  Vancouver  did  not 
yet  believe  that  such  a  river  as  was  represented  by 
Gray,  had  any  existence.  And  under  this  impression  he 
proceeded  on  to  the  north,  while  Gray,  to  assure  him- 
self of  the  reaHty  of  his  discovery  of  a  great  river, 
resolved,  if  possible,  to  enter  it  with  his  ship.  While 
proceeding  southward  he  entered  a  harbor,  which  he 
called  Bulfinch's  Harbor  ;  but  passing  on,  arrived,  on 
the  11th  of  May,  1792,  opposite  the  bay  which  Meares 
called  the  Bay  of  Deception,  immediately  south  of  Cape 
Disappointment,  and  in  latitude  forty-six  degrees  ten 
minutes  north.  Though  the  breakers  presented  a  formi- 
dable obstacle  before  them,  and  they  did  not  know  but 
that  they  were  rushing  to  inevitable  destruction,  yet 
Captain  Gray  and  his  gallant  comrades  dashed  bravely 
on,  and  discovering  a  narrow  passage  through  the  break- 
ers, passed  them  in  safety,  and  as  Gray  had  anticipated, 
found  themselves  in  a  large  river  of  fresh  water,  up 
which  they  proceeded  the  distance  of  twenty  miles. 
The  point  at  which  they  arrived,  was  probably  the  nar- 
row and  shallow  channel  known  by  the  name  of  Tongue 
Point  Channel,  and  which  is  difficult  to  pass,  though  the 


360  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

river  is  well  known.  The  natives  flocked  around  the 
strangers  and  manifested  the  utnnost  surprise,  at  what, 
they  saw  and  heard.  A  traffic  was  opened  with  them 
in  which  furs  were  received  from  the  Indians,  in  ex- 
change for  coarse  goods  ;  and  after  having  continued  in 
the  river  eight  days,  making  repairs,  trading  with  the 
natives,  exploring  the  river,  and  taking  observations  of 
the  surrounding  country.  Captain  Gray  again  passed  the 
breakers  at  the  entrance,  through  the  intricate  channel, 
prepared  to  announce  to  the  world  the  most  important 
discovery  that  was  ever  made  on  the  north-west  coast. 

Before  taking  his  departure,  Captain  Gray  bestowed 
the  name  of  his  vessel  upon  the  majestic  river  which  he 
had*  discovered,  calling  it  the  Columbia,  a  name  which, 
in  honor  of  the  generous  captain  who  bestowed  it,  and 
of  the  gallant  ship  that  first  anchored  in  its  waters,  it 
should  forever  retain.  The  high  promontory  on  the 
north  side  of  the  entrance,  which  was  called  Cape 
Disappointment,  by  Meares,  in  token  of  his  unsuccessful 
search,  by  Captain  Gray  was  called  Cape  Hancock,  and 
the  low  point  on  the  south  side  Cape  Adams. 

It  has  been  asserted  by  one  writer,  that  the  existence 
of  this  river  was  long  known  before  Gray  or  Vancouver 
visited  it.  *  Doubtless,  it  was  known  by  the  Indian 
tribes  that  lived  upon  its  banks,  but  if  any  white  man 
ever  saw  it  he  was  not  permitted  to  survive  to  tell  of 
his  discovery.  From  a  survey  of  the  whole  ground,  it 
appears  clearly  that  Captain  Robert  Gray  is  entitled  to 
the  credit  of  being  the  oi'iginal  discoverer  of  this  great 
river  of  Oregon  ;  a  river  which,  when  viewed  as  the 
only  convenient  or  practicable  channel  to  and  from  one 
of  the  most  extensive  and  fertile  valleys  in  North 
America,  will  bear  comparison  with  almost  any  river  in 
the  world. 

From  the  mouth  of  this  river.  Gray  returned  to  the 
north,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Queen  Charlotte's  Island, 
while  his  vessel  was  under  full  sail,  she  struck  a  rock 
and   received   so   great   an   injury  that   she   was   near 

*  Astoria. 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  361 

foundering,  but  he  finally  succeeded  in  getting  her  into 
Nootka  Sound,  when  his  damage  was  soon  repaired. 
Gray  found  at  this  place  a  Spaniard  who  had  the  com- 
mand of  the  establishment,  and  to  him  he  immediately 
communicated  the  results  of  his  examinations,  and  par- 
ticularly his  discovery  of  the  Columbia  river,  which 
proved  a  very  fortunate  circumstance,  for  he  thereby 
obtained  an  unimpeachable  witness  in  his  favor.  He 
continued  in  this  region  a  few  months  actively  employed 
in  his  trade  with  the  natives,  and  other  business,  and  in 
the  ensuing  fall  took  his  final  departure  from  the  north- 
west coast. 

In  a  discussion  of  the  conflicting  claims  of  the  two 
governments,  it  had  been  arranged  between  the  Spanish 
and  English,  that  the  former  should  surrender  to  the 
latter  the  country  lying  around  the  Nootka  Sound,  and 
Captain  Vancouver  was  the  commissioner  from  England 
to  receive  the  surrender.  The  negotiations  between 
Vancouver  and  the  Spanish  commissioner  took  place 
while  Gray  and  other  American  captains  were  on  the 
coast.  The  contest  which  was  carried  on  between  the 
two  parties,  however  interesting,  would  be  too  tedious 
to  introduce  here.  Suffice  it  to  say,  the  place  was  not 
surrendered  nor  does  it  appear  that  the  Spanish  flag  was 
ever  struck  to  the  British  at  Nootka  Sound.  Be  this  as 
it  may,  in  the  month  of  October,  Vancouver  left  Nootka 
with  his  three  vessels,  the  Discovery,  Chatham,  and 
Doedalus,  having  procured  from  Quadra,  the  Spanish 
commissioner,  copies  of  the  charts  and  descriptions  of 
Gray,  and  proceeded  southward  to  satisfy  himself  of  the 
correctness  of  Gray's  representations.  Whidby  in  the 
Doedalus  was  sent  to  explore  Bulfinch's  Harbor,  while 
Vancouver  proceeded  with  the  other  vessels  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia.  Vancouver's  own  ship,  the 
Discovery,  was  not  able  to  enter  the  river,  and  he  there- 
fore proceeded  on  to  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco.  But 
the  Chatham,  under  Lieutenant  Braughton,  succeeded, 
with  great  difficulty,  in  crossing  the  bar.  He  found  lying 
at  anchor  in  the  bay  the  brig  Jenny,  from  Bristol,  which 
had   left  Nootka  a  few  days  previous.     The   Chatham 


362  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

ran  aground  soon  after  entering^  and  Braughton,  from 
the  intricacy  of  the  channel,  resolved  to  leave  her  about 
four  miles  within  the  bar  and  proceed  up  the  river  in  a 
boat.  Accordingly  he  set  out,  and  thoroughly  examin- 
ing every  part  of  the  river,  he  penetrated  to  the  distance 
of  about  ninety-six  miles  from  the  mouth,  where  the 
river  takes  a  bend  and  where  the  strength  of  the  current 
was  such  as  to  induce  them  to  return.  This  bend  or 
point  in  the  river,  they  called  Point  Vancouver.  Return- 
ing to  their  ship  they  gave  a  bay  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river,  the  name  of  Gray's  Bay,  but  the  bay  back  of  Cape 
Disappointment,  they  called  Baker's  Bay,  after  the  cap- 
tain of  the  brig  Jenny. 

Having  remained  in  the  river  twenty  days,  on  the 
10th  of  November  they  again  crossed  the  bar,  and  pro- 
ceeded south  to  join  Vancouver  in  the  bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. With  the  usual  avariciousness  of  English  aristo- 
crats, Braughton,  before  his  departure,  formally  took 
possession  of  the  river  and  of  the  country  in  the  vicinity, 
in  the  name  of  his  Britanic  Majesty,  "  Having  every 
reason  to  believe  that  the  subjects  of  no  other  civilized 
nation  or  state  had  ever  entered  this  river  before ;"  an  act 
of  justice  the  like  of  which  the  subjects  of  Great  Britain 
are  ever  ready  to  perform  towards  American  citizens. 

At  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  Braughton  and  Whidby 
reported  the  result  of  their  observations  to  Vancouver, 
and  the  former  was  dispatched  to  England,  while  the 
latter  proceeded  to  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

Vancouver  never  again  returned  to  the  coast  of  Ore- 
gon, though  he  subsequently  explored  minutely  the  region 
round  about  Cook's  Inlet.  However,  he  sailed  south  as 
far  as  Nootka,  from  which  place  he  took  his  departure 
for  England,  where  he  arrived  in  August,  1795,  having 
been  absent  more  than  four  years. 

Braughton  having  been  elevated  to  the  rank  of  Cap- 
tain, was  again  sent  by  the  British  government  to  the 
Pacific,  and  arrived  on  the  coast  of  Nootka  in  the  spring 
of  1796,  empowered  to  receive  the  surrender  of  the  place 
from  the  Spanish,  but  found  it  entirely  abandoned  by 
the  whites,  and  in  the  possession  of  savages,  under  the 


363  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

treacherous,  cruel  and  notorious  Maquinna.  It  should 
be  observed  that  Nootka  Sound  is  on  the  west  side  of 
Vancouver's  Island,  consequently  it  does  not  properly 
belong  to  the  coast  of  Oregon. 


CHAPTER   XYIII. 


Oregon  territory — History  continued— European  natioas  involved  in  war — Pacific  trade 
carried  by  the  Great  Republic— Ship  Boston  siezed  by  the  Indians — Land  Expedi- 
tions—Captain Jonathan  Carver— Sir  Alexander  McKinzie— Lewis    and  Clark — 

Project  of  John  Jacob  Astor — Captain  Thorn    and  the  Tonqum McDougal  ani 

Concomley — Fate  of  the  Tonquin — Wilson  Price  Hunt — Depressio^n  at  the  fort — 
Encouragement — Ship  Beaver  arrives — Declaration  of  war — Thompson  and  the 
north-west  company — Ross  Cox— Astoria  in  danger — Visit  of  McTavish  and  Stuart 
Alarming  news— Effect  on  the  American  company — Sloop  of  war — Racoon  and 
Captain  Black—Astoria  falls  into  the  hands  of  the  British — Astor's  magnificent 
enterprise  terminated. 

For  twenty  years  following  1796,  the  nations  of  Eu- 
rope were  involved  in  the  most  bloody  and  destructive 
wars,  and  consequently  but  little  if  any  interest  was 
taken  by  either  Spain  or  England,  in  the  north-west 
coast  of  America,  either  as  it  regards  its  occupancy  or 
its  trade  ;  and  seldom  during  that  entire  period,  did  the 
vessels  of  any  other  nations  than  those  of  the  United 
States,  appear  in  the  North  Pacific.  The  trade,  there- 
fore, between  this  coast  and  other  parts  of  the  world, 
was  exclusively  carried  on  under  the  flag  of  the  great 
Republic. 

Though  they  made  no  establishment  on  the  coast  for 
the  first  sixteen  years,  the  Americans  sent  their  vessels 
annually  to  this  region,  laden  with  such  articles  as  the 
natives  of  the  country  desired,  which  they  exchanged  for 
furs.  These  were  carried  to  Canton  and  exchanged  for 
silks,  porcelain,  teas,  and  other  articles  suited  to  the  vari- 
ous markets  then  open  to  American  vessels.  This  trade 
engaged  the  attention  of  many  persons  from  various  parts 
of  the  Union,  and  in  its  earlier  stages,  fortunes  were 
amassed,  but  it  will  be  understood  that,  from  the  length  of 
the  voyages  performed,  the  nature  of  the  coast,  the  diffi- 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  365 

culty  of  the  trade,  and,  above  all,  the  treachery  of  the 
savages  v^^ith  whom  the  traffic  wsls  carried  on,  the  per- 
sons employed  therein  v^^ere  constantly  exposed  to  the 
greatest  perils.  But  the  dangers  to  which  they  volun- 
tarily subjected  themselves,  are  no  reason  why  they 
might  pursue  a  fraudulent  or  abusive  course  with  the  In- 
dians. Yet,  doubtless,  many  of  them  did  not  render  an 
equivalent  for  the  furs  received,  and  the  natives  were 
sometimes  deceived  by  trinkets  that  were  of  no  value. 
Spirits  were  also  introduced  among  them,  which  had  a 
direct  tendency  to  inflame  their  savage  passions.  Diffi- 
culties and  quarrels  arose  frequently  between  the  Ame- 
ricans and  Indians,  and  it  required  the  most  extraordinary 
skill  and  courage  on  the  part  of  the  former,  to  accom- 
plish their  business,  with  the  ignorant  and  treacherous 
savages  with  whom  they  were  surrounded.  But  very 
few  vessels  visited  these  shores  during  this  period  that 
did  not  suffer  the  loss  of  one  or  more  of  its  crew,  by 
the  ruthless  hand  of  the  blood-thirsty  Indian. 

Those  who  have  read  the  narrative  of  John  R.  Jewitt, 
will  recollect  the  circumstances  of  the  bloody  massacre 
of  the  crew  of  the  ship  Boston,  in  1803,  by  Maquinna  and 
his  followers,  while  she  was  lying  at  Nootka.  Under  the 
appearance  of  friendship  and  without  exciting  suspicion, 
this  treacherous  chief  laid  his  plans  to  destroy  the  crew, 
and  seize  the  vessel  as  his  own,  which  he  cruelly  put 
into  execution,  murdering  all  the  crew  but  two,  who, 
after  continuing  in  slavery  three  years,  finally  effected 
their  escape. 

Previous  to  this  period  (1803)  the  subject  of  land  ex- 
peditions across  the  continent  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  was 
agitated  among  the  people  of  the  United  States,  princi- 
pally through  the  representations  of  Captain  Jonathan 
Carver,  who,  in  1766,  explored  the  sources  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and  said  he  had  discovered  a  river  which  flowed 
west,  which  he  called  the  Oregon  river,  and  which  he 
had  no  doubt  emptied  into  the  Western  Ocean. 

It  is  in  Carver's  account  that  we  first  detect  the  name 
Oregon,  a  name  which,  it  is  conjectured,  first  originated 
with  Carver  himself.    However  it  might  have  come  into 


366  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

existence,  it  will  probably  be  continued  in  connection 
with  the  country  to  the  end  of  time. 

In  1774,  Captain  Carver  and  Richard  Whitworth  pro- 
jected what,  in  those  days,  was  considered  a  bold  and 
daring  enterprise,  which  was  to  cross  the  continent  from 
Missouri  to  the  Pacific  ocean,  for  the  purpose  of  explor- 
ing the  country  and  tracing  out  the  sources  of  the  Ore- 
gon river,  which  Carver  said  he  had  previously  seen  ; 
of  passing  down  that  river  to  its  supposed  exit,  there 
building  a  vessel  and  carrying  on  their  discoveries  by 
sea.  But  this  project,  which,  if  it  had  been  carried  out, 
might  have  been  attended  with  important  results,  was 
defeated  by  the  breaking  out  of  the  American  Revolution. 

A  more  successful  attempt  of  this  kind  was  made  in 
1793,  by  Sir  Alexander  McKenzie.  This  gentleman  was 
employed  by  the  "North  West  Company"  to  explore 
those  regions  of  the  west  and  north,  which  even  to  fur- 
hunters  yet  remained  unknown.  In  1789,  he  explored 
the  Hyperborean  regions  to  the  Arctic  ocean  ;  but,  in 
1793,  he  took  a  more  westerly  route,  and  ascending 
Peace  river  to  its  sources,  he  passed  the  dividing  ridge, 
and  entering  upon  a  river  that  flowed  towards  the  Pacific, 
he  pursued  it,  and  finally  arrived  on  the  coast  of  the 
Pacific  ocean,  in  latitude  fifty-two  degrees  and  twenty 
minutes  north.  He  supposed  the  river  he  had  discovered 
was  the  Oregon  river  of  Carver,  but  subsequent  discove- 
ries have  proved  it  to  be  the  stream  which  now  bears 
the  name  of  Frazier's  river.  It  empties  into  the  ocean 
three  degrees  north  of  the  Columbia  river. 

This  was  the  first  journey  performed  by  a  white  man 
across  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  This, 
however,  took  place  north  of  the  limits  of  the  territory 
of  Oregon. 

In  1804,  '5  and  '6,  the  memorable  expedition  under 
Captains  Merriweather  Lewis  and  William  Clark,  was 
accomplished.  This  exploring  journey  w^as  projected  by 
the  United  States  Government,  through  the  recommenda- 
tion of  Thomas  Jefferson,  who  was  then  President. 
Captain  Lewis  was  made  the  commander  of  the  expedi- 
tion, and  after  much  difficulty  in  preparing,  on  the  14th 


OREGON    TERRITORY  36? 

day  of  May,  1804,  they  began  the  ascent  of  the  Missouri 

in  boats. 

After  toiling  the  entire  season,  sometime  near  the  last 
of  October,  they  found  themselves  sixteen  hundred  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  and  among  savage 
tribes,  prepared  to  spend  the  first  winter  of  their  cam- 
paign. In  the  spring  of  1805,  these  indefatigable  men 
continued  their  course  up  the  Missouri  to  its  sources  in 
the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  passed  the  stupendous  gates  of 
that  mighty  chain,  and  on  the  other  side  came  to  a  river 
which  flowed  to  the  westward.  They  followed  it  down 
until  it  became  a  broad  and  noble  river,  and  on  the  7th 
of  October,  embarked  in  canoes,  and  in  a  few  days  found 
themselves  at  the  confluence  of  two  splendid  rivers, 
which  proved  to  be  the  two  great  branches  of  the  Colum- 
bia. The  branch  they  descended,  which  was  the  south 
branch,  they  called  the  Lewis,  and  the  north  they  dis- 
tinguished by  the  name  of  Clark. 

Continuing  their  downward  course  they  successively 
passed  the  Falls  of  the  Columbia,  the  Dalls,  the  Cascades, 
below  which  they  began  to  be  affected  by  the  rise  and 
fall  of  the  tide,  and  knowing  by  this  that  they  must  be 
drawing  near  the  ocean  they  passed  on,  and  on  the  15th 
day  of  November,  1805,  landed  at  Cape  Disappointment, 
on  the  north  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 

As  the  rainy  season  was  setting  in  they  examined  the 
country  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  with  a  view  to  find  a 
suitable  place  to  make  their  encampment  for  the  winter. 
They  accordingly  built  a  fort  on  the  south  side,  not  far 
from  an  Indian  village,  and  called  it  Fort  Clatsop,  after 
the  name  of  the  Indian  tribe. 

Here  they  spent  an  agreeable  winter,  and  as  the  weather 
would  admit,  explored  the  surrounding  country.  The 
savages  were  peaceable,  and  assisted  in  procuring  them 
food,  such  as  the  river  and  sea  afforded,  of  which  there 
was  no  lack.  Here  they  continued  until  the  13th  day 
of  March,  at  which  time,  having  made  the  necessary 
preparations,  they  commenced  their  long  and  toilsome 
journey  back  to  the  United  States.  They  ascended  the 
river  in  canoes  as  far  as  they  could,  on  account  of  the 


368  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

rapids,  and  then  resolved  to  proceed  by  land.  They 
divided  themselves  into  tw^o  parties,  with  the  design  of 
re-crossing  the  Rocky  Mountains  by  two  different  routes. 
That  under  Lewis  took  nearly  a  due  east  course  to  the 
Falls  of  the  Missouri,  while  that  under  Clark  took  a  more 
southern  route  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Yellow  Stone, 
and  the  two  parties  were  to  unite  at  the  junction  of  these 
rivers.  In  the  month  of  August,  the  parties  again  united, 
according  to  agreement,  and  passing  down  the  Missouri, 
arrived  at  St.  Louis  on  the  23d  of  September,  1806,  after 
an  absence  of  two  years  and  six  months. 

The  journey  of  Lewis  and  Clai'k  was  one  of  discovery, 
and  the  first  performed  by  white  men  across  the  territory 
of  Oregon.  The  information  which  the  account  of  these 
gentlemen  gave  to  the  people  of  the  States,  was  received 
with  great  interest,  and  conti'ibuted  to  hasten  the  settle- 
ment of  the  north-west  boundary  question  between  the 
territories  of  Great  Britain  and  those  of  the  United  States, 
as  far  west  as  the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  and  also  to  induce 
private  individuals  to  extend  their  trade  with  the  Indians 
beyond  that  chain. 

In  1806,  the  British  fur-traders  of  the  north  made  their 
first  establishment  on  the  west  side  of  the  mountains. 
Mr.  Simon  Frazer,  of  the  North- West  Company,  estab- 
lished himself  on  Frazer's  Lake,  near  the  fifty-fourth 
degree  of  north  latitude,  in  a  country  since  called  by  the 
Enghsh,  New  Caledonia.  But  the  first  establishment  of 
the  kind  which  was  made  on  the  waters  of  the  Columbia, 
and  within  the  limits  of  Oregon,  was  that  of  Manuel 
Lisa,  a  Spaniard,  who  was  a  member  of  the  Missouri 
Fur  Company,  which  was  formed  at  St.  Louis,  in  1808. 
This  was  made  on  the  head  waters  of  Lewis'  river,  and 
was  placed  under  the  immediate  direction  of  Mr.  Henry, 
but,  in  consequence  of  the  difficulty  of  obtaining  supplies, 
and  the  continued  hostility  of  the  savages  around,  it  was 
given  up  in  1810. 

At  this  time  was  formed  the  magnificent  project  of 
John  Jacob  Astor,  of  New  York,  in  reference  to  a  trading 
establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river. 
The  Company  of  which  this  distinguished  merchant  was 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  369 

the  chief  support,  as  well  as  the  principal  director,  was 
formed  in  1810,  and  called  the  Pacific  Fur  Company. 
Among  the  individuals  that  Mr.  As  tor  admitted  to  a 
partnership  in  the  company,  were  a  number  who  had 
formerly  belonged  to  the  British  fur  companies,  and 
being  acquainted  with  the  trade,  Mr.  Astor  considered 
them  a  valuable  acquisition.  A  gentleman,  however, 
from  New  Jersey,  by  the  name  of  Wilson  Price  Hunt, 
was  to  be  the  principal  agent  in  the  establishment. 

Other  posts  were  to  be  established  also,  as  circum- 
stances would  admit.  It  was  designed  to  send  ships 
around  Cape  Horn  to  the  Columbia,  laden  with  articles 
of  Indian  trade,  which  were  to  be  exchanged  for  furs, 
and  these  were  to  be  sent  to  China  and  exchanged  for 
goods  that  would  suit  the  markets  of  the  United  States. 
The  plan  was  well  laid,  and  but  for  opposing  circum- 
stances which  no  sagacity,  however  penetrating,  could 
previously  discover,  and  over  which  the  originator  could 
have  no  control,  it  doubtless  would  have  succeeded  to 
admiration.  The  first  ship  w^hich  was  sent  out  was  the 
Tonquin,  which  was  commanded  by  Jonathan  Thorn. 

McDougal,  McKay,  and  one  or  two  others,  who  were 
partners  and  clerks,  went  in  her. 

They  left  New  York  in  September,  1810,  and  on  the 
22d  day  of  March  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 
river.  As  they  approached  the  mouth,  they  discovered 
that  the  water  broke  in  dreadful  surges  across  the  bar, 
and  there  appeared  to  be  no  possibility  of  effecting  an 
entrance.  And  now  began  the  heart-rending  sufferings 
of  that  ill-fated  crew. 

Captain  Thorn  sent  off  a  boat  to  explore  the  entrance 
under  one  of  his  officers  by  the  name  of  Fox.  Fox  at 
first  declined,  but  the  Captain  insisted,  and  finally  Fox 
consented  by  saying,  '  ■  Yes,  I  will  go  and  lay  my  bones 
by  the  side  of  those  of  my  father,  who  was  lost  at  this 
pkce  but  a  few  years  ago."  The  party  s-tarted  off,  and 
the  boat  passing  over  the  mountain  waves,  slowly  sepa- 
rated from  the  ship.  Night  came  on,  but  the  boat  did 
not  return.  Another,  but  no  boat ;  the  ship  in  the  mean- 
time standing  off  and  on.  The  utmost  anxiety  prevailed 
16 


370  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

on  board.  What  should  be  done  1  Another  boat  was 
sent  off  to  look  for  the  former,  and  also  to  find  the  en- 
trance. Two  persons  belonging  to  the  latter  boat  only, 
survived  to  tell  the  story  that  all  their  companions  were 
lost.  They  perished  amid  the  breakers  at  the  entrance 
of  the  river  ;  and  thus  was  given  the  remainder  of  the 
crew,  a  most  solemn  warning  of  the  more  tragic  fate 
which  awaited  them. 

Soon  after  this  disaster  the  weather  became  more 
favorable,  and  the  Tonquin  passed  the  bar  and  came  to 
anchor  in  Baker's  Bay.  After  McDougal  and  others 
had  examined  the  country  round  about,  the  site  they 
pitched  upon  for  the  establishment  of  their  post  was 
about  ten  miles  up  the  river,  and  on  the  south  side. 
They  built  a  trading  house,  and  inclosed  it  with  pickets, 
and  gave  it  the  name  of  ''  Astoria,"  after  the  name  of 
the  projector  of  the  enterprise.  Soon  after  they  arrived, 
the  partners  crossed  the  river  to  visit  Comcomly,  the 
chief  of  the  Chenooks. 

When  they  got  ready  to  leave  to  return  to  the  fort, 
the  wind  was  high,  and  the  water  in  the  bay  was  rough. 
Comcomly  endeavored  to  dissuade  them  from  crossing, 
but  they  resolved  to  make  the  attempt.  The  wary  chief, 
however,  sprang  into  his  canoe  with  several  of  his  men, 
and  kept  close  along  by  the  boat  as  she  came  into  the 
high  swells,  believing  that  she  would  not  endure  the  sea. 
His  fears  were  well  grounded,  for  scarcely  had  they 
started  when  the  boat  capsized,  and  the  partners  and 
their  men  were  struggling  in  the  water  for  life.  Com- 
comly, however,  was  immediately  among  them  in  his 
canoe,  and  rescued  them  from  a  watery  grave. 

They  were  now  willing  to  stay  with  the  chief  till  the 
storm  abated,  which  took  place  soon  afterward,  and  they 
returned  to  the  fort. 

McDougal  was  to  be  the  head  of  the  concern  until 
the  arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt.  After  considerable  difficulty 
between  Captain  Thorn  and  the  gentlemen  of  the  estab- 
lishment, the  goods  designed  for  Astoria  were  landed, 
and  the  ship  proceeded  northward  for  the  purpose  of 
trafficking  with  the  Indians  along  the  coast.     McKay 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  371 

went  in  her  as  supercargo,  and  Mr.  Lewis  as  clerk. 
The  whole  number  of  persons  on  board  was  twenty- 
three,  besides  an  Indian,  who  accompanied  them  as 
interpreter.  The  ship  proceeded  to  Vancouver's  Island, 
and  came  to  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Nittirat.  Some 
of  the  natives  came  on  board,  but  as  it  was  too  late  in 
the  day  to  traffick,  McKay  went  on  shore  to  see  the 
chief,  whose  name  was  Wicananish,  and  six  of  the 
Indians  remained  on  board  as  hostages.  McKay  was 
received  with  great  professions  of  friendship  by  the 
chief,  and  a  number  of  sea  otter-skins  were  spread  for 
his  bed.  In  the  morning  great  numbers  of  the  Indians 
came  off  to  the  ship,  apparently  to  trade,  headed  by 
two  sons  of  the  chief,  and  bringing  with  them  great 
quantities  of  fur.  The  fur  was  spread  upon  the  deck, 
and  the  goods  were  also  displayed  before  the  Indians  by 
the  unsuspecting  crew.  The  bantering,  which  is  peculiar 
to  Indian  traffick,  commenced,  and  all  for  a  few  moments 
seemed  to  go  on  well  ;  but  at  a  concerted  signal  given 
by  the  chiefs,  the  knives,  war-clubs,  and  tomahawks, 
which  the  savages  had  contrived  to  secrete  about  their 
persons,  were  at  once  displayed,  the  crew  were  imme- 
diately overpowered,  and  nearly  all  of  them  butchered 
upon  the  deck.  Mr.  Lewis,  the  clerk,  and  some  others 
had  succeeded  in  getting  into  the  hold  of  the  vessel,  near 
the  powder  magazine,  and  Lewis  had  told  the  interpreter 
that  he  intended  to  blow  up  the  ship,  and  in  this  way  to 
avenge  his  own  death,  and  that  of  his  companions. 

The  ship  was  now  in  the  full  possession  of  the  savages, 
who  thronged  her  deck  and  were  clambering  up  her 
sides,  all  intent  upon  securing  their  prize,  and  unconscious 
of  the  terrible  fate  which  awaited  them  and  which  they 
so  well  deserved.  At  length  the  magazine  was  fired, 
and  a  scene  which  beggars  description  was  then  pre- 
sented. The  ship  was  torn  to  atoms,  and  the  decks  in 
broken  fragments,  mingled  with  shivered  boxes,  barrels, 
guns,  and  the  dissevered  limbs,  heads,  and  trunks  of 
savages,  were  blown  high  into  the  air,  and  falling  upon 
the  dark  and  agitated  waters,  presented  the  most  gloomy 
picture  of  desolation.     At  the  time  of  the  explosion,  the 


372  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

interpreter  was  in  the  main  chains,  and  was  thrown  un- 
hurt into  the  waters,  where  he  succeeded  in  getting  into 
one  of  the  canoes  which  were  floating  tenantless  in  the 
bay,  and  in  this  he  went  ashore  and  finally  got  back  to 
Astoria  in  safety,  and  from  him  the  story  of  the  fate  of 
the  Tonquin  is  known. 

In  January,  1811,  Mr.  Wilson  Price  Hunt,  who  had 
been  appointed  general  agent  of  the  concern  on  the 
Columbia,  set  out  from  St.  Louis  to  cross  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  after  he  and  his  companions  endured  the 
most  incredible  sufferings  from  cold,  fatigue,  and  want 
of  food,  they  arrived  at  Astoria  in  the  spring  of  1812. 
Soon  after  they  arrived,  the  shocking  intelligence  of  the 
destruction  of  the  Tonquin  and  her  unfortunate  crew, 
reached  Astoria,  and  threw  the  whole  establishment  into 
the  most  gloomy  forebodings.  The  disaster  was  calcu- 
lated to  depress  the  spirits  and  destroy  the  hopes  of  the 
persons  engaged  in  the  enterprise.  But  the  arrival  of 
the  ship  Beaver,  from  New  York,  which  brought  out 
supplies  and  reinforcements,  encouraged  the  Astorians, 
and  they  resolved  to  prosecute  vigorously  their  enter- 
prise. It  was  determined  that  Mr.  Hunt  should  leave 
the  river  in  the  Beaver,  and  go  to  the  northward,  for  the 
purpose  of  advancing  the  interests  of  the  company  in  that 
region.  Astoria  was  left  under  the  direction  of  Mr. 
Duncan  McDougal,  who  had  long  been  in  the  service  of 
the  North  West  Company. 

In  January,  1813,  the  news  of  the  declaration  of  war 
by  the  United  States  against  Great  Britain,  reached 
Astoria  by  persons  who  had  been  sent  by  Mr.  Astor 
from  New  York  for  that  purpose,  and  served  to  darken 
the  prospects  of  the  company. 

On  the  15th  of  July,  Mr.  David  Thompson  arrived  at 
Astoria.  This  gentleman  was  a  partner  in  the  North 
West  Company,  and  it  appears  that  he  designed  to  antici- 
pate Mr.  Astor  in  the  occupancy  of  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia,  but,  to  his  disappointment,  found  the  American 
Company  already  in  full  possession.  Whatever  was  his 
object,  he  was  doubtless  the  first  person  that  descended 
from  near  its  source,  the  north  branch  of  the  Columbia. 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  373 

About  this  time  the  Astoriaris  received  information  that 
a  British  naval  force  was  on  its  way  to  take  possession 
of  the  mouth  of  the  river,  which  appeared  to  be  a  source 
of  satisfaction  to  McDougal  and  other  British  subjects 
who  were  connected  with  him,  some  of  whom  imme- 
diately left  the  service  of  the  Pacific  Company  and  went 
over  to  the  rival  association.  One  of  the  persons  that 
quitted  the  service  of  Mr.  Astor  was  Ross  Cox,  who 
subsequently  pubhshed  a  narrative  of  six  years'  residence 
on  the  Columbia. 

At  this  time,  which  was  in  the  month  of  January, 
1813,  nearly  all  the  persons  in  the  establishment  at  As- 
toria agreed  to  abandon  the  enterprise,  unless  they  should 
speedily  receive  more  supplies  and  assistance  from  New 
York.  Months  passed  away,  but  no  assistance  from  New 
York  arrived.  Mr.  Astor  had  dispatched  the  ship  Lark, 
for  Astoria,  with  abundant  supplies  of  men  and  property ; 
but  she  was  unfortunately  wrecked  on  a  coral  reef,  near 
the  coast  of  one  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  thus  added 
another  to  the  uncontrollable  circumstances  which  served 
to  hasten  the  dissolution  of  the  company. 

From  the  representations  of  Mr.  Astor,  the  govern- 
ment of  the  United  States  had  resolved  to  send  a  frigate 
to  the  North  Pacific,  to  succor  and  protect  the  infant 
settlement  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  ;  but  as  the  naval 
operations  on  Lake  Erie  and  Lake  Ontario  began  to  assume 
a  decidedly  important  character,  it  was  necessary  to 
dispatch  the  men  designed  for  the  Pacific  enterprise  to 
that  quarter  ;  and  the  fact  that  the  American  ports  were 
blockaded  by  British  fleets,  rendered  it  impossible  to 
convey  any  farther  succors  to  Astoria.  Accordingly, 
the  partners  of  the  Pacific  Company,  at  Astoria,  resolved 
to  abandon  the  enterprise  and  provide  for  their  safety, 
as  they  began  to  fear  that  they  might  be  attacked  by  the 
British,  who  were  already  establishing  themselves  on  the 
upper  waters  of  the  Columbia. 

A  short  time  after  the  partners  came  to  this  conclusion, 
Mr.  Hunt,  the  chief  agent,  returned  to  Astoria.  During 
his  absence  he  had  visited  the.Russian  settlements  at  Sitka, 
Unalashka  and  Kodiak,  had  collected  a  cargo  of  valuable 


374  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

furs  and  sent  them  to  Canton  ;  but,  on  arriving  at  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  he  learned  that  England  and  the  United 
States  were  at  war,  and  that  Commodore  Hillyer  was 
on  his  way  to  the  Pacific  ocean  with  a  squadron,  to  take 
possession  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  He,  conse- 
quently, chartered  a  vessel  immediately  and  sailed  for  As- 
toria to  convey  the  news  of  war,  and  prepare  to  meet 
any  hostilities  that  might  threaten  them  at  their  head- 
quarters. He  arrived  at  Astoria  in  the  brig  Pedlar,  on 
the  28th  of  February,  1814,  and  was  astonished  to  learn 
that  the  concerns  of  the  establishment  had  been  wound 
up  some  time  previous. 

Some  time  before  Hunt  arrived,  a  company  of  British, 
belonging  to  the  North  West  Company  established  far  in 
the  interior,  and  under  the  direction  of  McTavish  and 
Stuart,  came  down  the  river  to  Astoria,  and  brought  the 
alarming  intelligence  that  a  naval  force  was  on  its  way 
to  the  Columbia,  with  the  object  of  taking  and  destroying 
every  thing  American  in  that  quarter.  Notwithstanding 
the  probabiHty  that  the  whole  establishment  would  fall 
into  the  hands  of  the  British,  without  their  paying  for  it, 
yet  McTavish  and  Stuart  proposed  to  purchase  the  whole 
estabhshment,  furs  and  other  property,  at  a  proper  valu- 
ation ;  and  also  to  receive  into  '^  The  service  of  the 
North  West  Company  any  of  the  persons  belonging  to 
the  Pacific  Company,  at  the  same  wages  they  were 
then  receiving,  and  to  send  back  to  the  United  States  all 
that  did  not  choose  to  be  thus  employed."  The  partners 
of  the  American  Company  resolved  to  comply  with  this 
proposition,  and  accordingly  the  entire  establishment  was 
sold  to  the  North  West  Company  for  the  sum  of  about 
40,000  dollars. 

While  this  negotiation  was  going  on,  the  British  sloop 
of  war  Racoon,  Captain  Black,  arrived  at  Astoria  with 
the  expectation  of  sharing  largely  in  the  plunder  of  that 
place,  and,  though  he  found  the  stars  and  stripes  still 
floating  over  the  factory,  yet  all  the  valuable  property, 
consisting  of  furs,  peltries,  &:c.,  had  passed  into  the  hands 
of  British  subjects,  and  Capt.  Black  could  do  no  more  than 
to  lower  the  stars  and  stripes,  and  hoist  the  colors  of 


OREGOX    TERRITORY.  375 

Britain  over  the  walls  of  the  factory.  This  he  did  with 
the  accompanying  ceremony  of  breaking  a  bottle  of  port 
on  the  flag-staff,  and  changing  the  name  from  Astoria,  to 
that  of  Fort  George. 

On  arriving  at  Astoria,  in  the  ''  Pedlar,"  Hunt  found 
that  he  could  do  nothing  farther  in  that  part  of  the  world, 
but  to  close  up  the  concerns  of  the  company  to  the  best 
advantage,  and  return  to  the  United  States.  Accord- 
ingly he  re-embarked  in  the  Pedlar,  with  three  of  his 
companions  in  trade,  and  returned  home  by  the  way  of 
Canton.  Of  the  other  persons  who  had  been  his  associ- 
ates in  this  astonishing  enterprise,  some  entered  the  ser- 
vice of  the  North  West  Company  ;  some  exposed  them- 
selves to  the  perils  of  re-crossing  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
and  others,  of  whom  there  are  a  few  Hving  to  this  day, 
took  to  themselves  Indian  wives,  and  fixed  their  habita- 
tions among  the  savages  of  Oregon. 

Thus  the  magnificent  enterprise,  conceived  and  prose- 
cuted by  John  Jacob  Astor,  against  so  many  opposing 
circumstances,  was  brought  to  an  unfortunate  termina- 
tion. 

Doubtless,  but  for  the  unhappy  war  of  that  period,  it 
would  have  succeeded  to  admiration.  That  it  did  not 
succeed,  is  to  be  sincerely  regretted  by  every  American  ; 
for,  in  that  case,  the  country  would  never  have  been 
divided  ;  long  before  this  time,  the  whole  of  Oregon 
would  have  been  in  the  peaceable  possession  of  the  citi- 
zens of  the  United  States.  But  the  circumstances  which 
militated  against  the  success  of  this  mighty  project,  were 
purely  providential,  and  such  as  no  prudence  or  foresight 
in  its  originator  could  have  possibly  guarded  against. 
Though  defeated  in  its  ulterior  objects,  it  opened  the 
way  to  Oregon  to  American  citizens,  and  supplied  the 
means,  in  the  interesting  journals  of  those  who  were 
connected  with  the  enterprise,  for  Washington  Irving  to 
awaken  an  interest  in  the  American  public,  in  relation  to 
Oregon,  that  has  gone  on  increasing  until  the  present 
time. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Oregon  territory  —  History  continued  —  Astoria  restored  to  the  Americans  —  De- 
scription of  the  Fort  —  North  West  Company  remain  in  the  country  —  Rival 
companies  —  Hudson's  Bay  Company  —  How  formed  —  Extent  of  its  operations 
—  War  between  the  two  companies  —  Both  merged  in  one  —  The  Honorable 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  —  Policy  of  the  company  —  Number  and  situation  of 
trading  forts  —  Immense  power  of  the  company  —  Colonizing  the  country  — 
Sir  George  Simpson's  Colony  —  Settlements  —  Fort  Vancouver  —  Gentlemen  of 
the  Fort  —  Perils  of  the  fur-trade  —  A  thrilling  tragedy. 

According  to  the  first  article  of  the  treaty  of  Ghent, 
which  provided  "that  all  territory,  places  and  posses- 
sions whatsoever,  taken  by  either  party  from  the  other, 
during,  or  after  the  war,  should  be  restored  without 
delay, "  measures  were  taken  by  the  United  States 
Government  to  re-occupy  the  post  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  river.  In  1817,  Captain  J.  Biddle  and  J.  B. 
Prevost  were  commissioned  to  proceed  to  the  Columbia, 
and  there  to  assert  the  claim  of  the  United  States  to  the 
sovereignty  of  the  country.  These  gentlemen  sailed 
from  New  York  in  the  sloop-of-war  Ontario,  on  the  4th 
of  October,  1817.  The  British  Government,  hearing  of 
the  departure  of  the  Ontario  for  the  Columbia,  dispatched 
an  order  to  the  agents  of  the  North  West  Company, 
directing  them  to  give  every  facihty  in  their  power  to 
the  agents  of  the  United  States  Government,  for  the 
re-occupation  of  Fort  George,  as  a  place  that  had  been 
captured  during  the  war,  and  to  be  restored  according 
to  the  above  article  in  the  treaty  of  Ghent.  Captain 
Biddle  entered  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  in  August, 
1818,  and  on  the  19th  of  the  same  month,  the  flag  of 
the  United  States  was  again  floating  over  the  stockades 
of  old  Astoria.  But  a  more  formal  surrendering  of  the 
place  by  Great  Britain  and  occupation  of  it  by  the  United 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  377 

States,  took  place  the  following  October.  On  the  first 
day  of  this  month,  the  British  frigate  Blossom,  Captain 
Hikey,  arrived  in  the  Columbia,  bringing  Mr.  Prevost, 
who  had  left  the  Ontario  in  Chili,  to  attend  to  some 
business  there,  and  who  was  empowered  to  receive  the 
surrender  of  the  place  from  the  constituted  British 
authorities.  Captain  Hikey  and  James  Keith,  the  latter 
of  whom  was  the  superintendent  of  the  North  West 
Company  at  that  time,  were  the  persons  appointed  to 
deliver  up  the  settlement  in  due  form.  The  following 
is  the  instrument  by  which  the  country  captured  by  the 
British,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  reverted  to  the 
United  States  : 

"  In  obedience  to  the  commands  of  his  Royal  High- 
ness the  Prince  Regent,  signified  in  a  dispatch  from  the 
right  honorable  the  Earl  Bathurst,  addressed  to  the 
partners  or  agents  of  the  North  West  Company,  bearing 
date  the  27th  of  January,  1818,  and  in  obedience  to  a 
subsequent  order,  dated  the  26th  of  July,  from  W.  H. 
Shireff,  Esq.,  captain  of  his  majesty's  ship  Andromache, 
we,  the  undersigned,  do,  in  conformity  to  the  first  article 
of  the  treaty  of  Ghent,  restore  to  the  government  of 
the  United  States,  through  its  agent,  J.  B.  Prevost,  Esq., 
the  settlement  of  Fort  George,  on  the  Columbia  river. 
Given  under  our  hands  in  triplicate,  at  Fort  George, 
(Columbia  River),  this  6th  day  of  October,  1818. 

•'  F.  Hikey,  Capt.  of  his  Majesty's  ship  Blossom. 
"  J.  Keith,  of  the  North  West  Company." 

Mr.  Prevost  accepted  this  delivery  in  the  following 
language  : 

"  I  do  hereby  acknowledge  to  have  this  day  received, 
in  behalf  of  the  government  of  the  United  States,  the 
possession  of  the  settlement  designated  above,  in  con- 
formity to  the  first  article  of  the  treaty  of  Ghent. 
Given  under  my  hand  in  triplicate,  at  Fort  George, 
(Columbia  River),  this  6th  of  October,  1818. 

"  J.  B.  Prevost,  agent  for  the  United  States." 

This    transaction    took    place  in   1818,   and  as  Fort 
George  had  then  been  in  the  possession  of  the  North 
West  Company  for  more  than  four  years,  the  trade  of 
16* 


378  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

that  company  on  the  Columbia  had  become  firmly  estab- 
lished. The  fort  at  that  time  consisted  of  a  stockade, 
inclosing  a  parallelogram  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
by  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  extending  in  its  greatest 
bngth  from  north-west  to  south-east.  Within  this  inclo- 
sure  were  all  the  buildings  attached  to  the  establishment, 
such  as  dwelling-houses,  stores,  mechanic'  shops,  &c. 
On  the  fort  were  mounted  two  eighteen-pounders,  four 
four-pounders,  two  six-pound  cohorns,  and  seven  swivels. 
The  number  of  persons  belonging  to  the  factory,  besides 
a  few  women  and  children,  were  sixty-five,  of  whom 
twenty-three  were  whites,  twenty-six  Sandwich  Island- 
ers, and  the  remainder  persons  of  mixed  blood  from 
Canada.  In  the  restitution  of  Fort  George  by  Mr. 
Keith,  to  the  Americans,  it  was  understood  that  the 
North  West  Company  would  continue  their  occupancy 
of  the  country,  and  traffick  therein  according  to  the  pro- 
visions of  the  article  of  agreement  entered  into  between 
the  United  States  and  Great  Britain,  in  October,  1818  ; 
which  was,  "  That  any  country  that  may  be  claimed  by 
either  party  on  the  north-west  coast  of  America,  west- 
ward of  the  Stony  Mountains,  shall,  together  with  its 
harbors,  bays,  and  creeks,  and  the  navigation  of  all  rivers 
within  the  same,  be  fre€  and  open  for  the  term  of  ten 
years,  to  the  vessels,  citizens,  and  subjects  of  the  tu'o 
powers." 

The  history  of  Oregon  from  1814  to  1834,  is  embraced 
in  the  history  of  those  rival  companies  of  fur-traders, 
which  have  extended  their  operations,  from  time  to  time, 
from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  to  Vancouver's  Island, 
and  from  New  Spain  to  the  country  of  the  Esquimaux. 
To  give  a  particular  account  of  these  companies  would 
require  volumes  ;  a  brief  survey,  therefore,  must  suiiice. 

While  the  French  merchants  of  Quebec  and  Montreal 
were,  by  their  agents,  exploring  the  immense  forests  on 
both  sides  of  the  great  lakes,  and  ransacking  the  extended 
prairies  of  the  West  and  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  in 
quest  of  the  rich  and  valuable  furs  with  which  the  wilds 
of  North  America  abounded,  and  were  furnishing  France 
and  other  European  countries  with  the  precious  luxury, 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  379 

the  avails  of  which  constituted  their  immense  wealth,  a 
rival  power  ushered  into  being  a  corporation  which  is 
now  grasping  the  supreme  dominion  of  the  forest  north 
of  the  United  States,  from  the  coast  of  Labrador  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  and  exercising  an  iron  despotism,  not 
only  over  the  numerous  persons  who  are  in  its  employ, 
but  also  over  many  of  the  Indian  tribes  residing  within 
the  limits  of  its  jurisdiction.  For  a  number  of  centuries 
the  government  of  Great  Britain  made  the  most  extraor- 
dinary eftbrts  to  discover  a  north-west  passage  from  the 
Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  during  which  Baffin  and  Hudson 
explored  the  two  bays,  which  now  bear  their  names. 
From  the  accounts  given,  the  opinion  was  entertained 
that  the  communication  could  be  effected  by  Hudson's 
Bay,  and,  as  an  encouragement  to  private  enterprise,  and 
to  increase  the  facilities  to  explore  the  regions  of  the 
north,  for  the  purpose  of  accomplishing  this  long  desired 
object,  Charles  II,  in  1669,  granted  a  charter  to  a  society 
of  London  merchants,  under  the  designation  of  "  The 
Hudson's  Bay  Company."  Then  commenced  the  opera- 
tions of  a  monopoly,  second  only  in  power  to  the  far 
famed  East  India  Company,  which  has  opened  the  way 
for  the  extension  of  British  ru4e  ov^er  a  vast  portion  of 
the  continent  of  Asia.  For  many  years  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  confined  its  operations  within  the  Hyper- 
borean regions,  where  it  had  enthroned  itself  in  solitary 
despotism,  and  where  it  opposed  itself  in  successful 
rivalry  against  a  French  company  of  a  similar  character  ; 
but,  finally,  has  extended  itself  throughout  the  entire 
western  territories  claimed  by  Great  Britain  and  the 
United  States,  and  has  even  laid  under  contribution  a 
portion  of  the  Russian  American  possessions.  During  its 
onward  career  it  has  experienced  few  reverses,  though 
it  has  frequently  been  called  upon  to  contend  with  power- 
ful opposition. 

During  the  year  1787,  an  association  was  organized 
among  the  principal  fur-merchants  of  Montreal,  for  the 
purpose  of  carrying  the  trade  between  the  posts  of  that 
country  and  such  of  the  British  territories  of  the  interior 
as  were  not  supposed  to  be  included  in  the  grant  to  the 


380  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

Hudson's  Bay  Company  ;  and  so  rapidly  did  it  extend  its 
operations,  that  within  two  years  its  estabhshments  were 
advanced  as  far  as  Athabaska  Lake,  near  the  fifty-ninth 
parallel  of  latitude,  about  eight  hundred  miles  north-west 
from  Lake  Superior.  This  company,  in  its  increasingly 
extended  operations,  proved  the  most  powerful  competi- 
tor with  which  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  had  to  con- 
tend, but  finally  merged  itself  in  the  latter  company. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  exercising  supreme 
control  over  its  frozen  domains,  at  length  found  a  new 
company  advancing  upon  them  with  a  menacing  aspect, 
and  both  companies  became  immediately  actuated  by  the 
spirit  and  motives  of  rivals.  They  became  the  most 
bitter  enemies  to  one  another,  and  as  the  different  par- 
ties of  the  two  companies  would  come  in  contact  while 
exploring  the  north-western  wilds,  the  most  serious 
quarrels  would  take  place,  and  result  in  the  commission 
of  injuries  by  each  party  against  the  other.  At  length, 
in  1814,  a  regular  war  broke  out,  and  for  some  time 
was  openly  carried  on  between  them.  The  scene  of 
this  fraternal  war  was  the  territory  on  the  Red  river, 
contiguous  to  the  frontiers  of  the  United  States.  A 
company  of  Scotch  Highlanders  had  been  established 
here  by  Lord  Selkirk,  in  1812,  in  virtue  of  a  grant  of 
the  country  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  The 
North  West  Company,  to  which  the  Scotch  settlement 
had  proved  injurious  by  wresting  from  them  those  sup- 
plies of  provisions  for  their  trading  posts,  which  had 
been  obtained  almost  wholly  from  the  Red  river  lands, 
denied  the  validity  of  this  grant,  and  hence  arose  many 
disputes  and  various  acts  of  violence,  until  finally,  the 
Scotchmen  were  driven  away,  and  their  houses  de- 
stroyed by  their  opponents.  The  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany re-established  the  colony  the  following  year,  and 
consequently  hostilities  were  renewed. 

Posts  were  taken  and  burnt  by  each  party,  and  on 
the  19th  of  June,  1816,  a  general  battle  was  fought,  in 
which  the  North  Westers  were  victorious.  The  Scotch- 
men were  routed,  and  their  governor,  Mr.  Semple,  and 
seventeen  of  his  followers,  were  killed. 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  381 

These  affairs  were  represented  by  each  party  before 
the  British  Government,  and  in  1821  a  compromise  was 
effected  between  the  rival  companies,  and  they  were 
united  by  an  act  of  Parhament,  under  the  title  of  "  The 
Honorable  Hudson's  Bay  Company."  At  the  same  time 
an  act  was  passed,  granting  to  this  company  the  exclu- 
sive right  to  trade  in  the  Indian  territories  in  Northern 
America,  owned  or  claimed  by  Great  Britain,  for  the 
period  of  twenty-one  years.  Under  the  protection  of 
this  act,  after  the  coalition  of  the  two  companies  took 
place,  the  arms  of  the  giant  monopoly  were  thrown 
around  the  entire  territory  west  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, extending  from  the  Russian  settlements  to  the 
Gulf  of  California.  Oregon,  from  fifty-four  degrees 
forty  minutes,  south  as  far  as  they  pleased  to  go,  and 
from  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Pacific,  was  dotted 
with  forts  and  trading  posts,  and  every  valley  and  moun- 
tain was  made  to  contribute  to  swell  the  coffers  of  the 
co-partners  of  this  extensive  concern. 

The  grand  operations  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
are  managed  by  a  governor,  deputy-governor,  and  a 
committee  of  directors,  established  in  London,  to  whom 
all  the  reports  of  the  company's  affairs  are  annually 
transmitted.  The  trade  of  this  company  is  under  the 
immediate  control  of  a  governor,  residing  within  the 
field  of  its  operations,  who  is  responsible  only  to  the 
committee  in  London.  Under  him  are  inferior  officers, 
consisting  of  superintendents,  factors,  traders  and  clerks. 
The  higher  officers  have  a  direct  interest  or  share  in 
the  profits  of  the  business,  but  the  lower  are  engaged  at 
small  salaries,  with  the  promise  of  a  pension  for  life, 
after  a  given  period  of  faithful  service.  But  the  most 
numerous  class  of  agents  in  the  business  of  the  company 
are  the  hunters,  voyagers,  and  trappers,  consisting  of 
Hawaiians,  French  Canadians,  half-breeds  and  Indians, 
who  are  paid  a  mere  pittance  for  their  services,  and  are 
kept  in  a  state  of  entire  subjection  to  the  will  of  the 
company,  by  promises  of  future  advancement,  according 
as  they  slmll  render  themselves  of  value  to  the  trade. 
The   strictest   discipline    and    subordination    are    eVery 


382  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

where  enforced  by  the  officers,  and  generally  observed 
by  the  servants,  though  occasionally  there  are  violent 
outbreaks. 

The  furs  and  skins  which  constitute  nearly  the  sole 
returns  of  the  trade,  are  principally  procured  from  the 
Indians  in  exchange  for  coarse  manufactured  goods,  guns, 
and  a  variety  of  worthless  trinkets,  calculated  to  please 
the  fancy  of  the  savage,  without  proving  of  any  benefit. 
Some,  however,  are  procured  by  the  company's  trappers 
and  hunters.  The  goods  employed  in  this  business  are 
all  brought  from  England,  free  of  duty,  and,  for  the  de- 
partment west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  are  deposited 
at  Fort  Vancouver.  At  this  point,  the  goods  that  are 
wanted  for  the  interior,  are  packed  in  bundles  of  such  a 
size  as  to  be  easily  carried  by  one  man,  as  the  transporta- 
tion is  performed  alternately  in  boats  and  by  portage, 
and  sent  to  all  the  posts  throughout  the  country.  Re- 
cently, however,  an  additional  depot  has  been  established 
on  Vancouver's  Island,  north  of  the  forty-ninth  parallel, 
called  Victoria,  which,  probably,  will  become  the  princi- 
pal one,  as  Vancouver  is  in  the  territory  belonging  to 
the  United  States.  The  furs  collected  are  all  sent  to 
these  two  places,  from  which  they  are  shipped  directly  to 
London,  in  vessels  which  arrive  annually  on  the  coast, 
with  the  goods  and  other  supplies  necessary  to  carry  on 
the  trade.  Five  or  six  ships  of  about  three  hundred  tons 
burthen,  are  constantly  employed  for  this  purpose,  in 
addition  to  several  smaller  craft  which  operate  in  the 
rivers  and  along  the  coast.  Among  the  latter,  is  one 
steamboat,  which  is  principally  employed  between  Fort 
Nezqualy,  on  Puget's  Sound,  and  Stikine,  a  post  north  of 
the  fifty-sixth  parallel. 

The  number  of  forts  and  trading-posts  occupied  by  the 
company  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  is  twenty-two  : — 
Fort  Vancouver,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Columbia  River, 
ninety-five  miles  from  the  ocean,  in  north  latitude  forty- 
five  degrees  and  about  forty  minutes,  and  west  longitude 
122  degrees  and  30  minutes  ;  this  fort  was  estabhshed 
in  1824,  by  Governor  Simpson,  and  named  after  the  dis- 
tino-uished   navio-ator  who  was  the  second  to  enter  the 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  383 

mouth  of  the  Columbia,  but  the  first  to  explore  the  river 
as  high  up  as  the  point  of  land  on  which  Vancouver 
stands  :  Fort  George,  formerly  Astoria,  situated  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Columbia,  ten  miles  from  its  mouth  ; 
Nezqualy,  on  Puget's  Sound,  latitude  forty-seven  degrees  ; 
Fort  Langly,  on  Frazer's  River,  latitude  forty-nine  de- 
grees and  twenty-five  minutes  ;  Fort  McLaughlin,  on  Mill 
Bank  Sound,  latitude  fifty-two  degrees  ;  Fort  Simpson, 
on  Dundas  Island,  latitude  fifty-four  degrees  and  thirty 
minutes  ;  Fort  Stikine,  on  a  river  of  the  same  name,  lati- 
tude fifty-six  degrees  and  thirty  minutes  :  this  fort  is 
in  the  territory  belonging  to  Russia,  and,  regardless  of 
the  rights  of  the  Russians,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
attempted,  in  1834,  to  intrench  themselves  on  the  banks 
of  the  Stikine,  which  had  been  recently  discovered,  and 
abounded  in  the  most  valuable  furs.  Baron  Wrangle, 
who  was  then  the  Governor  of  the  Russian  American 
possessions,  having  got  wind  of  the  project  entertained 
by  the  English  to  wrest  from  them  this  important  point, 
proceeded  to  the  mouth  of  the  river  and  fortified  it  by 
erecting  a  block-house  and  stationing  there  a  sloop  of 
war.  The  Russians  had  not  been  long  in  waiting  before 
a  vessel  was  discovered  approaching  the  shore  and  bear- 
ing the  men  and  materials  for  the  contemplated  establish- 
ment ;  but,  to  their  surprise,  the  British  found  a  sloop 
of  war  ready  to  dispute  their  passage  into  the  river. 
They  were  informed  that  to  save  themselves,  their  pro- 
perty and  their  vessel,  they  must  tack  ship  and  return  to 
their  own  possessions.  AH  appeals  to  treaties,  and  all 
the  fair  promises  of  the  English,  were  ineffectual  ;  the 
Russians  were  inexorable,  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany for  once  were  foiled  in  their  attempt,  after  having 
spent  in  preparations  the  sum  of  twenty  thousand  pounds. 
Subsequently  they  entered  into  a  negotiation  with  the 
Russians  and  proposed  to  purchase  the  right  of  trading 
on  the  Stikine  River,  for  a  certain  number  of  years.  To 
this  the  Russians  listened  favorably,  and  at  length  a  bar- 
gain was  completed,  in  which  the  English  bound  them- 
selves, to  pay  to  the  Russians  annually,  for  a  term  of 
years,  a  certain  sum,  to  be  paid  in  the  produce  of  the 


384  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

extensive  farm  which  the  EngHsh  cultivated  on  the  Co- 
lumbia River,  connected  w^ith  v^^hat  they  co-uld  procure 
from  the  settlers  in  the  country.  On  the  conclusion  of 
this  contract  the  post  wsls  immediately  occupied,  a  strong 
fort  erected,  and  munitions  of  war  provided  to  defend 
the  establishment  against  the  hostile  Indians  by  which  it 
is  surrounded. 

With  the  exception  of  Victoria  on  Vancouver's  Island, 
the  forts  and  posts  of  the  company  are  situated  inland, 
as  follows  :  Frazer's  Lake,  McLeod's  Lake,  Fort  George, 
Alexandria,  Chilcotins,  Babine,  and  Bear's  Lake,  in  that 
portion  of  the  country  called  by  the  Enghsh,  New  Cale- 
donia ;  the  posts  of  Walla- Walla,  Okanagan,  and  Colville, 
high  up  on  the  Columbia  River  ;  the  Flathead  and  Koota- 
niapost,  between  the  two  main  branches  of  the  Columbia ; 
Fort  Hall,  near  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  on  the  south 
branch  of  the  Columbia,  and  Umpqua  post,  situated  in 
latitude  forty-three  degrees  and  thirty  minutes,  on  a  river 
of  the  same  name,  and  about  fifty  miles  from  the  ocean. 
The  company  also  have  two  migratory  trapping  and 
trading  expeditions  of  between  fifty  and  seventy-five  men 
each  ;  to  the  one  is  appropriated  the.country  from  the  Co- 
lumbia south  to  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  along  the  coast ; 
the  other  explores  the  interior  between  the  Columbia 
and  the  head-waters  of  the  Colorado  and  Sacramento. 

The  average  annual  value  of  the  furs  and  peltries 
derived  from  these  territories,  has  been  in  the  vicinity  of 
one  hundred  and  forty  thousand  dollars,  for  which  have 
been  given  about  twenty  thousand  dollars  worth  of  goods, 
prime  cost,  the  services  of  about  five  hundred  men, 
employed  in  various  parts  of  the  business,  shipping  to 
bring  supplies  and  take  back  returns,  with  various  other 
incidental  expenses.  The  net  profits,  however,  arising 
from  the  Columbia  trade,  according  to  the  representa- 
tions of  Dr.  John  McLaughlin,  who  is  the  superintendent 
of  the  affairs  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  have  not  usually  amounted  to  more 
than  ten  thousand  dollars,  the  principal  profits  of  the 
trade  being  derived  from  countries  not  embraced  in  the 
western  department. 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  385 

It  has  always  been  the  poHcy  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  to  monopoHze  the  trade  of  those  immense 
regions  in  North  America,  occupied  by  civiHzed  man, 
and  it  has  appeared  destined  to  swallow  up  all  other 
commercial  enterprises  coming  within  its  reach.  With 
this  view,  its  posts  have  been  pushed  onward  from  time 
to  time,  until  every  important  point  has  been  occupied 
from  Hudson's  Bay  to  Puget's  Sound,  and  its  brigades 
of  boats  have  appeared  on  every  navigable  river  of  that 
vast  region,  bearing  British  manufactures  into  the  deepest 
recesses  of  savage  life,  or,  on  their  backward  route, 
loaded  with  furs  for  the  great  depository  on  the  sea- 
board. On  every  Indian  trail  have  been  seen  the  sure- 
footed mule  and  the  Indian  mustang,  reeling  under  bur- 
dens of  three  hundred  pounds,  sometimes  in  troops  of 
scores,  driven  by  a  squadron  of  weather-beaten  moun- 
taineers, with  their  rifles  before  them,  and  their  long 
knives  hanging  at  their  belts  ;  now  ascending  the  mighty 
mountain  chain  ;  now  plunging  to  the  bottom  of  the  deep, 
dark  ravine  ;  now  diving  into  the  solitudes  of  the  prime- 
val forest,  untrodden  but  by  the  feet  of  wild  beasts,  and 
savages  as  wild  as  they,  and  now  emerging  upon  the 
extended  prairies,  calling,  wherever  the  rising  smoke 
indicates,  the  presence  of  an  Indian,  and  bartering  the 
wampum,  the  gaudy  ribbon,  the  scarlet  cloth,  and  the 
Indian  blankets,  for  the  precious  beaver,  otter,  and  mar- 
ten, until  their  supply  of  goods  is  exhausted,  and  their- 
animals  loaded  with  the  fruits  of  their  toils.  They 
may  be  seen  winding  along  the  serpentine  trail  which 
leads  back  to  the  grand  depot,  happy  if  their  numbers 
have  not  been  diminished  by  the  numerous  casualties 
incident  to  the  business  in  which  they  are  engaged.  The 
wonderful  efforts  of  those  who  have  controlled  the  desti- 
nies of  this  company,  and  the  indefatigable  exertions  of 
the  numerous  agents  employed  to  promote  its  interests, 
have  succeeded,  equal  to  the  most  sanguine  expectations. 
Possessed  with  inexhaustible  resources,  and  sustained 
with  the  most  vigorous  policy,  they  have  been  advancing 
in  a  sure  march  of  commercial  conquest.  They  have 
left  no  posts  behind  them  unsubdued,  but  wherever  they 


386  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

have  made  an  attack,  they  remain  masters  of  the  field. 
Their  concentration  of  capital  and  interest  gives  them  a 
decided  advantage  over  the  scattered  capital  of  individual 
merchants,  and  to  this  we  may  attribute  a  great  share 
of  their  success.  A  number  of  years  ago  they  succeeded 
in  ridding  themselves  of  all  American  competition  on  the 
north-west  coast,  of  which,  until  very  recently,  they  have 
enjoyed  the  undivided  monopoly.  And  whether  on  the 
cqast  or  in  the  interior,  wherever  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  has  placed  its  giant  foot,  there  American  trade 
has  been  sure  to  decline. 

Another  feature  of  the  policy  of  the  company,  is  the 
course  which  they  have  pursued  in  relation  to  colonizing 
the  country.  They  have  always  been  opposed  to  its  set- 
tlement by  any  people  except  such  as,  by  a  strict  subjec- 
tion to  the  company,  would  become  subservient  to  their 
wishes.  This  has,  doubtless,  arisen  from  two  circum- 
stances :  First,  the  fur-trade  of  Oregon  has  been  rapidly 
declining  for  a  number  of  years  past,  and  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  are  fully  aware  that  this  trade  alone  will 
not  be  sufficient  to  sustain  them  in  the  country  for  many 
years  to  come,  and  to  abandon  the  country  would  involve 
themselves  in  an  immense  loss.  These  liabilities  they 
wish  to  guard  against  by  opening  sources  of  wealth  in 
other  branches  of  business,  to  be  under  their  control. 
Secondly,  they  have  had  in  their  employment,  every 
year,  many  hundreds  of  persons,  consisting  of  Canadian 
French,  Hawaiians,  half-breed  Iroquois,  and  others,  who 
are  under  their  absolute  control,  so  long  as  they  remain 
in  the  Indian  country.  Many  of  these,  from  year  to 
year,  either  by  having  large  families,  by  the  decline  of 
the  fur-trade,  or  by  superannuation,  become  unprofitable 
servants,  and  by  the  company  are  settled  in  various  parts 
of  the  country,  where  they  support  themselves,  and  be- 
come, indirectly,  a  source  of  profit  to  the  company. 
They  wished  to  preserve  Oregon  as  an  asylum  for  their 
servants,  on  both  sides  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  where 
they  could  use  them  to  advantage,  in  agricultural,  pas- 
toral, and  manufacturing  pursuits,  when  they  could  be 
no  longer  serviceable  to  them  in  the  business  of  the  fur- 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  387 

trade.  That  the  company  have  comtemplated  a  rapid 
decline,  and  probable  termination  of  the  fur-trade,  west 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  appears  from  the  fact  of  their 
having  been  formed  into  a  new  company,  under  the  name 
of  ^'  Puget's  Sound  Agricultural  Company,"  with  a  capital 
of  two  million  pounds.  This  company  has  pretended  to 
hold  large  tracts  of  land  in  the  vicinity  of  Puget's  Sound, 
under  grants  of  letters  patent  from  the  English  Govern- 
ment ;  and  here  they  have  attempted  to  establish  a 
colony,  but  without  success. 

This  attempt  was  made  in  1842.  The  half-breed 
descendants  of  the  gentlemen  and  servants  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  had  been  collecting  together  in  a 
colony,  on  a  small  tract  of  fertile  land  lying  on  Red 
river,  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  for  more  than  thirty 
years,  and  so  rapid  was  the  increase  of  the  colony,  and 
so  limited  the  arable  country  on  the  Red  river,  that  the 
company  resolved  to  send  off  a  colony  of  the  numerous 
Scotch  and  English  half-breed  ssettled  on  that  river,  to 
the  shores  of  the  Pacific  ocean.  Accordingly,  in  1842, 
Sir  George  Simpson,  who  for  many  years  has  been  the 
resident  Governor  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  by 
holding  out  the  most  flattering  inducements,  succeeded 
in  forming  a  colony  of  some  thirty  families,  of  which  he 
took  the  charge  in  person.  They  left  the  Red  river 
settlement  late  in  the  spring,  with  their  scanty  supplies 
packed  upon  the  backs  of  mules  and  Indian  ponies,  and 
passing  through  the  stupendous  gates  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  they  arrived  on  the  borders  of  Puget's 
Sound  some  time  in  the  month  of  October.  If  the 
fertility  of  the  soil  where  they  were  planted  by  Sir 
George,  had  corresponded  with  the  picturesque  beauty 
of  the  face  of  the  country,  doubtless  the  colony  would 
have  succeeded  ;  but  in  consequence  of  a  total  failure 
of  the  crops  the  first  year,  the  colonists  abandoned  the 
place,  contrary  to  the  wishes  of  the  company,  and  set- 
tled in  a  more  fertile  portion  of  the  country. 

Two  other  settlements  intended  for  the  reception  and 
support  of  retiring  servants  of  the  company,  have  been 
established  in  Oregon  ;  one  in  the  valley  of  the  Cowilitz, 


388  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

north  of  the  lower  Columbia,  the  other  on  the  delightful 
plains  watered  by  the  Wallamette  river,  south  of  the 
Columbia.  As  interested  motives  first  induced  the 
company  to  estabHsh  these  settlements,  so  it  has  always 
been  their  policy  to  keep  them  in  a  state  of  absolute 
dependence.  The  colonists  have  not  only  been  respon 
sible  to  the  company  for  the  course  of  conduct  they 
have  pursued,  but  from  it  alone,  until  very  recently, 
they  have  been  obliged  to  receive  all  their  supplies  of 
foreign  necessaries,  consisting  of  clothing,  groceries, 
&c.,  for  which  they  have  been  obliged  to  pay  in  the 
produce  of  the  soil,  at  prices  to  suit  the  avaricious  pro- 
pensities which  have  developed  themselves  in  the  whole 
poUcy  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

The  oppressive  measures  adopted  by  the  company,  in 
reference  to  these  settlements,  were  such  as  to  cause 
them  to  languish  for  years,  and  to  induce  some  of  the 
most  active  and  enterprising  among  the  settlers,  to  take 
refuge  in  the  United  States. 

Fort  Vancouver,  after  it  became  the  grand  depot  of 
the  company  west  of  the  mountains,  was  the  most 
important  point  occupied  by  them,  and  the  settlement 
there  established,  differed  from  those  already  described, 
in  the  important  particular,  that  every  person  connected 
with  it,  was  in  the  immediate  service  of  the  company. 
The  fort,  in  1845,  consisted  in  a  stockade,  inclosing  a 
space  of  ground  of  about  eight  hundred  feet  long,  and 
five  hundred  broad,  with  a  bastion  at  one  corner,  with 
three  gates  in  front,  for  ingress  and  egress,  and  one  in 
the  rear.  In  addition  to  the  artillery  mounted  in  the 
bastion,  there  were  two  eighteen-pounders  and  two 
swivels  planted  in  front  of  the  residence  of  the  chief 
factors,  and  commanding  the  principal  entrance  to  the 
fort. 

Within  this  inclosure  were  situated  some  thirty  build- 
ings, serving  as  dwelling-houses,  stores,  magazines,  and 
work-shops.  Near  the  fort  are  the  buildings  occupied 
by  the  servants,  as  also  a  hospital,  barns,  and  a  large 
boat-house.  In  the  rear  of  the  fort  the  company  have 
a  splendid  garden  in  the   highest  state  of  cultivation, 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  389 

which  produces  all  kinds  of  fruit  for  which  the  climate 
is  adapted,  such  as  apples,  peaches,  pears  and  grapes. 
Here  is  also  cultivated  a  large  farm  of  some  three  thou- 
sand acres,  producing  wheat,  barley,  oats,  peas,  potatoes, 
&c.,  in  great  abundance  ;  and  herds  of  many  thousands 
of  cattle  are  supported  on  the  adjacent  plains. 

Connected  with  the  fort,  and  about  four  miles  distant, 
up  the  Columbia,  are  a  flouring-mill  and  saw-mill,  which 
have  been  in  operation  for  several  years. 

At  the  head  of  this  establishment  stands  Dr.  John 
MeLaughlin,  and  second  to  him  is  James  Douglass,  Esq., 
the  former  being  a  native  of  Canada,  and  the  latter  of 
Scotland.  These  gentlemen,  as  far  as  social  habits  are 
concerned,  have  acquired  for  themselves,  and  for  the 
company  of  which  they  are  chief  factors,  an  enviable 
reputation  for  hospitality  and  kindness.  Few  persons, 
whether  coming  by  land  or  by  sea,  have  ever  visited 
Vancouver  without  being  received  with  a  hospitahty 
which  knew  no  bounds,  until  every  want  of  the  traveler 
was  supplied.  Innumerable  have  been  the  favors  con- 
ferred by  them  upon  the  American  missionaries,  and 
their  assistance  has  been  rendered  at  times  when  great 
inconvenience,  and  even  suffering,  would  have  resulted 
from  neglect.  For  all  these  acts  of  kindness  these  gen- 
tlemen, with  many  others  at  the  various  posts  in  the 
country,  equally  as  well  disposed,  are  deserving  of  much 
praise.  But  to  particularize  here  would  extend  this 
account  beyond  the  limits  originally  marked  out ;  and  I 
shall  therefore  close  this  sketch  of  the  history  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  by  presenting  a  few  circum- 
stances and  incidents  illustrative  of  the  perils  of  the 
fur-trade,  and  of  the  character  of  those  under-agents 
employed  to  prosecute  it. 

The  trading-post  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Thompson's  and  Frazer's  river,  had  been  long  under 
the  superintendence  of  an  English  gentleman  by  the 
name  of  Black,  who,  in  view  of  many  amiable  qualities, 
was  in  good  repute  among  the  gentlemen  of  the  com- 
pany, and  had  already  risen  to  the  office  of  chief  trader. 
By  some  means  he  had  excited  the  jealousy  of  an  Indian 


390  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

chief  belonging  to  a  tribe  residing  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
fort,  upon  whom  he  had  lavished  many  favors,  but  v^ho 
resolved  to  imbrue  his  hands  in  the  blood  of  his  bene- 
factor. 

One  day,  in  1842,  the  Indian  came  to  the  fort  with 
his  musket  in  his  hand,  which  probably  Black  had  sold 
him.  The  unsuspicious  trader  received  him  into  the 
fort,  and  even  into  his  dwelhng,  without  disarming  him. 
As  the  Indian  appeared  unusually  friendly,  Black  became 
uncommonly  confiding.  At  length,  to  fulfil  some  request 
which  the  Indian  artfully  made,  he  turned  his  back  upon 
him,  and  while  retiring,  his  secret  foe  deliberately 
brought  his  musket  to  his  face,  and  taking  a  deadly  aim, 
fired,  the  bullet  passing  directly  through  his  heart.  He 
fell ;  and  as  the  Indian  saw  him  stretched  upon  his  own 
floor,  weltering  in  his  gore,  he  walked  deliberately  out 
of  the  house,  passed  through  the  gate  of  the  stockade, 
and  disappeared  ;  and  three  years  subsequently  the  In- 
dian was  still  at  large,  and  the  crime  unrevenged. 

Different  was  the  closing  scene  of  another  tragedy, 
acted  the  following  year,  on  the  Columbia  river.  A 
half-breed  Iroquois,  by  the  name  of  McKay,  was  em- 
ployed for  the  company,  on  the  lower  waters  of  the 
Columbia,  and  resided  in  a  small  house  on  the  north 
shore  of  the  river,  where  he  kept  the  Indian  goods  with 
which  he  carried  on  his  trade.  A  few  Indians  of  the 
Chenook  tribe,  knowing  him  to  be  alone,  proceeded  to 
his  house,  murdered  him,  and  took  possession  of  his 
goods.  A  friendly  Indian  carried  the  news  immediately 
up  to  Vancouver,  and  an  expedition  was  fitted  out  to 
pursue  and  take  the  murderers.  Armed  with  muskets, 
they  proceeded  down  the  river,  and  at  length  came  in 
sight  of  a  canoe  filled  with  Indians,  and  were  informed 
that  the  murderers  were  in  that  canoe.  They  imme- 
diately gave  chase,  and  the  suspicions  of  the  Indians 
being  aroused,  they  also  plied  the  paddle  with  all  their 
might,  to  keep  at  a  safe  distance  from  their  pursuers. 
Finding  that  the  white  men  gained  upon  them,  the 
Indians  run  their  canoe  ashore  ;  but,  as  they  were  land 
ing,    they   received   a   volley   of   musket  balls,   which 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  391 

unfortunately  killed  one  Indian  woman,  and  wounded 
some  others,  while  the  murderers,  for  the  time  being, 
made  their  escape.  Dr.  McLaughlin,  of  whom  all  the 
Indians  in  the  country  stand  in  the  greatest  fear,  sent 
word  to  the  Chenooks  that  they  must  deliver  up  the 
principal  instigator  of  the  crime,  or  he  would  adopt 
some  other  way  to  avenge  the  murder  of  McKay. 
Fearing  that  the  wrath  of  the  company  might  burst 
upon  the  whole  tribe,  every  man  became  intent  upon 
delivering  up  the  murderer.  At  last  he  was  found  far 
north  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  where  he  had  se- 
creted himself,  and  brought  in  triumph  to  Fort  George, 
and  delivered  up  to  the  authorities  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company. 

Dr.  McLaughlin  was  present,  and  some  thirty  or  forty 
others,  besides  the  Indians  who  had  collected  to  see  what 
would  be  done.  A  trial  was  instituted,  the  Indian  was 
pronounced  guilty  of  wilful  murder,  and  sentenced  to  be 
hung  forthwith.  A  gallows  was  prepared,  and  one  end 
of  a  long  rope  thrown  over  the  top  of  the  gallows,  and 
tied  around  the  Indian's  neck.  All  the  white  men 
present,  with  the  exception  of  Rev.  J.  H.  Frost,  who 
witnessed  the  scene,  took  hold  of  the  other  end  of  the 
rope,  the  Indian  standing  like  a  statue  under  the  gallows, 
and,  at  a  given  signal,  all  pulled  upon  the  rope,  drawing 
the  Indian  up  so  that  his  feet  were  some  distance  from 
the  ground.  As  his  neck  did  not  break,  he  merely 
strangled  ;  but  the  mode  of  his  death  filled  the  tribes 
around  with  horror,  and  impressed  every  Indian  with 
a  sense  of  the  fearful  character  of  the  white  man's 
vengeance.  This  summary  execution  proved  a  salutary 
lesson,  especially  to  the  Indians  in  the  vicinity  where  it 
took  place. 

In  the  prosecution  of  the  fur-trade,  it  has  frequently 
been  necessary  for  the  members  of  the  company  to  adopt 
the  most  sanguinary  measures  against  the  Indians,  in 
order  to  secure  their  own  safety  and  ultimate  success. 
Hundreds  of  their  trappers  and  voyagers  have  fallen  by 
the  ruthless  hand  of  the  savage,  while  pursuing  their 
game  along  the  valleys,  or  scouring  the  mountain  chains 


392  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

of  the  west,  and  none  have  ever  prosecuted  this  perilous 
enterprise,  who  have  not  had  repeated  occasions  to  re- 
venge the  death  of  a  comrade,  perhaps  a  brother,  or  an 
intimate  friend.  Out  of  the  pale  of  the  law,  the  fur- 
traders  became  a  law  unto  themselves,  or  rather  adopted 
such  laws,  from  time  to  time,  as  the  exigences  of  the 
case  required.  At  one  of  the  forts,  situated  in  the  inte 
rior,  a  servant  of  the  company  was  murdered  by  an 
Indian  chief,  who  subsequently  boasted  that  he  had  com- 
mitted the  deed.  This  chief  belonged  to  a  powerful 
migratory  tribe  that,  at  the  time  of  the  murder,  was 
encamped  in  the  vicinity  of  the  fort,  and,  as  he  possessed 
considerable  influence  in  the  tribe,  and  could  rally  around 
him  a  large  number  of  warriors,  he  concluded  that  the 
few  white  men  at  the  fort  would  not  dare  to  molest  him. 
The  commandant  of  the  fort  knowing  that  if  this  daring 
crime  remained  unrevenged,  there  would  be  no  safety 
for  the  remainder  of  the  whites,  offered  a  heavy  reward 
to  any  Indian  or  w^iite  man  that  would  take  the  life  of 
the  murderer.  Some  time  elapsed,  and,  as  no  one  dared 
to  make  the  attempt,  the  murderer  was  still  at  large. 
One  day  it  came  to  the  ears  of  the  commandant  that  the 
murderer  was  in  camp,  and  might  be  found  in  a  certain 
lodge  at  the  farther  extremity  of  the  encampment.  The 
commandant,  who  had  long  waited  with  the  deepest 
anxiety  for  such  an  opportunity,  seized  his  unerring  rifle 
and,  secreting  it  under  the  folds  of  his  cloak  which  he 
had  thrown  around  him,  passed  outside  the  stockade, 
and  taking  a  narrow  trail  which  wound  along  among 
the  lodges,  marched  directly  to  the  one  where  sat  the 
doomed,  but  unsuspecting,  chief,  surrounded  by  his  com- 
panions, and  rehearsing  his  deeds  of  marvelous  prowess 
in  his  numerous  fights  with  the  men  of  King  George. 
Pulling  aside  the  door  of  Buffalo  skin,  he  stepped  inside 
the  lodge  and  presented  himself  in  full  view  of  the  as- 
tonished Indians.  He  fixed  his  eye  upon  the  well  known 
form  of  the  murderer,  and,  without  uttering  a  word,  let 
fall  the  folds  of  his  cloak,  and  poising  his  rifle,  aimed 
directly  at  the  murderer's  heart.  The  Indian  perceiving 
that  his  hour  had  come,  threw  his  arms  above  his  head, 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  393 

gave  a  horrid  yell,  fell  backward  and  expired  ;  the 
ball  had  pierced  his  heart.  The  commandant  retraced 
his  steps  Luimolesied  back  to  the  fort,  leaving  the  Indians 
thunderstruck  Vvdth  his  astonishing  bravery.  He  has 
since  been  elevated  to  the  important  and  honorable  office 
of  chief  factor,  to  which,  by  long  and  faithful  service,  as 
well  as  by  every  quahiication  of  the  gentleman,  he  is 
justly  entitled. 

The  incidents  above  related  are  not  isolated,  but  have 
been  selected  from  many  of  a  similar  character,  which 
appear  in  the  history  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 
Indeed,  it  has  been  necessary,  in  order  to  succeed  in 
their  enterprise,  for  this  corporation  to  carry  forward 
their  operations  in  the  wilds  of  Oregon  by  the  terror  of 
arms.  Their  private  trappmg  parties  have  frequently 
been  waylaid  by  the  Indians  and  destroyed  ;  their  trading 
expeditions  have  often  been  obhged  to  fight  their  way 
through  hostile  tribes,  from  one  portion  of  the  country 
to  another,  or  perish  with  starvation.  Sometimes  they 
have  left  behind  them  a  trail  of  butchered  Indians,  who 
fell  before  their  unerring  rifles,  and  then  have  halted  to 
commit  to  a  hasty  grave  the  remains  of  a  comrade,  who 
had  fallen  by  a  poisoned  arrow,  from  the  quiver  of  a 
vengeful  foe.  Sometimes  whole  parties  have  been  cut 
off,  and  not  a  sohtary  person  left  to  bear  to  civilized  man 
the  story  of  their  tragic  fate. 

On  one  occasion,  a  party  in  the  northern  wilds,  at  the 
head  of  which  was  the  son  of  Sir  George  Simpson,  was 
attacked  by  the  Indians,  and  after  killing  a  number  of 
their  assailants,  every  soul  perished.  Young  Simpson 
owned  a  large  grey-hound,  which  he  had  with  him,  and 
which  defended  his  master  to  the  last  extremity.  In  the 
battle  the  hound  received  a  musket  ball  in  his  leg,  and 
finding  he  could  render  his  master  no  farther  assistance, 
effected  his  escape.  Subsequently  the  remains  of  these 
unfortunate  men  were  found  through  the  sagacity  of  the 
faithful  dog,  which  led  persons  to  the  spot  where  perished 
his  master  and  his  comrades.  Frequently  the  forts  of 
the  company  have  been  attacked  by  numerous  bands  of 
savages,  and-  it  has  required  all  the  skill  of  the  com- 
17 


394  OREGON    TE8RITOKY. 

mandant,  and  the  hard  fighting  of  the  men,  to  prevent 
them  from  falling  into  the  hands  of  their  foes.  These 
means  have  sometimes  failed  to  repulse  them,  and  forts 
have  been  taken,  pillaged  and  burned.  Commandants 
have  been  insulted,  trampled  upon,  and  murdered.  And 
it  is  not  surprising  that  the  company,  in  view  of  the  im- 
mense loss  of  life  and  property  they  have  from  time  to 
time  sustained  by  their  warlike  and  perfidious  enemy^ 
should  frequently  take  severe  measures  to  awe  them 
into  submission.  This  they  have  done  by  sending  out 
war  parties  to  attack  indiscriminately  the  offending  tribe  j 
and  frequently  in  these  excursions,  women  and  children 
have  been  the  greatest  sutferers.  Individual  cases  have 
doubtless  transpired,  where  Indians  have  been  wantonly 
butchered  and  their  property  seized  by  the  servants  of 
the  company,  but  the  company  cannot  be  held  responsi- 
ble for  the  outrages  committed  by  individuals,  unless  it 
can  be  shown  that  the  individuals  are  authorized  by  the 
company  to  commit  them.  Whoever  has  been  intimately 
acquainted  with  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  has 
observed  its  operations  for  any  length  of  time,  must  be 
aware  that  the  policy  pursued  by  them  with  reference 
to  the  Indians,  is  one  of  the  greatest  forbearance  and 
conciliation,  and  that  they  never  resort  to  severe  mea- 
sures except  when  robberies  are  committed,  their  servants 
murdered,  or  the  safety  of  the  company  is  at  stake. 

Perhaps  no  calling  under  the  sun,  whale-fishing  not 
excepted,  is  more  perilous  than  the  fur-trade,  or  in  which 
a  greater  proportion  of  those  Vv^ho  engage  in  it  lose  their 
lives.  The  following  incident  is  illustrative  of  the  cha- 
racter of  many  of  the  under  servants  employed  by  the 
company,  at  the  various  forts  in  the  country  of  the 
Columbia  : — 

In  the  summer  of  1842,  Sir  George  Simpson,  who  is 
at  the  head  of  the  affairs  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
in  America,  and  who  resides  at  Red  river,  east  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  in  one  of  his  exploring  tours,  arrived 
at  Vancouver,  and  thence  in  a  ship,  proceeded  up  the 
north-west  coast  to  a  fort  of  the  company,  situated  at 
Stikien,  for  the  purpose  of  investigating  the  case  of  the 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  395 

murder  of  John  McLaughlin,  Jr.,  which  took  place  in  the 
previous  April.  The  murder  of  this  gentleman  had  pro- 
duced great  excitement  in  the  country,  particularly 
among  the  servants  of  the  company,  on  account  of  the 
deceased  being  the  son  of  Dr.  John  McLaughlin,  chief 
factor,  and  superintendent  of  the  affairs  of  the  company 
west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  of  his  having  been 
killed  by  the  servants  of  the  company,  and  not  by  Indians, 
who  are  the  usual  actors  in  such  bloody  scenes.  It  had 
been  reported,  and  after  he  had  investigated  the  matter, 
it  was  believed  by  Sir  George  Simpson,  that  the  mur- 
derers had  been  influenced  to  commit  the  deed  by  the 
cruel  and  overbearing  conduct  of  the  deceased  towards 
them,  he  being  at  the  head  of  the  company's  business  in 
that  })lace  ;  that  they  had  previously  stolen  from  the 
fort  several  bottles  of  ardent  spirits,  of  which  they  made 
a  free  use  on  the  night  of  the  murder,  to  render  them- 
selves as  desperate  as  possible,  and  to  nerve  themselves 
for  the  accomplishment  of  their  sanguinary  purposes.  It 
appears  from  the  testimony  given,  that  every  individual 
belonging  to  the  establishment  under  the  direction  of 
Mr.  McLaughlin,  had  mutually  bound  themselves  to 
accomplish  his  destruction.  And,  as  no  evidence  could 
be  procured,  except  from  interested  persons,  whose  object 
would  be  to  secure  themselves,  it  might  be  expected  that, 
in  the  first  investigation  by  Sir  George  Simpson,  the 
interested  party  would  attempt  to  make  it  appear  that 
the  killing  of  Mr.  McLaughlin  was  no  more  than  a  justi- 
fiable homicide.  Accordingly,  when  Sir  George  returned 
to  Vancouver,  he  expressed  this  view  of  the  subject,  as 
Dr.  McLaughlin  informs  the  writer,  and  stated  that  the 
deceased  was  a  quarrelsome,  drunken  fellow,  and  had 
unmercifully  beaten  his  men  from  time  to  time,  and  by 
his  cruelty  and  wickedness  had  procured  his  own  death. 
A  subsequent  investigation  seems  to  throw  more  light 
upon  this  atfair  ;  and  as  second-hand  report  is  not  always 
to  be  credited,  I  solicited  permission  to  examine  the 
original  depositions,  which  were  readily  put  into  my 
hands  by  the  afflicted  and  venerable  father  of  the  unfor- 
tunate man,  who  is  the  subject  of  this  short  sketch. 


396  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

Pierre  Kanaquassee,  one  of  the  men  employed  in  the 
establishment  at  the  time  of  the  murder,  and  in  whose 
testimony  the  gentlemen  of  the  company  place  the 
utmost  reliance,  gives  the  following  narrative,  in  answer 
to  questions  proposed  by  James  Douglass,  Esq.,  the 
magistrate  that  examined  him  : — 

Q,.  Where  were  you  on  the  night  of  the  murder  of 
the  late  Mr.  John  McLaughlin  1 

A.  I  was  in  my  room,  in  the  lower  part  of  the  main 
house,  where  I  Hved  with  George  Heron,  in  an  apart- 
ment in  the  lower  story,  immediately  under  the  kitchen. 
My  door  opened  into  the  passage  which  led  to  the 
apartment  of  Mr.  John  McLaughlin  in  the  second  story. 

Q.  What  occurred  on  the  night  of  the  murder  1 

A.  1  will  tell  you  the  whole  story  to  the  best  of  my 
recollection. 

A  few  days  preceding  the  murder,  five  Indians  from 
Tako,  with  letters  from  Dr.  Kennedy,  arrived  at  the 
fort  about  midnight.  The  watchmen  hearing  the  knock- 
ing, called  Mr.  John.  When  he  got  up,  he  mustered  a 
few  hands  to  defend  the  gates  in  case  of  any  treacherous 
attack  from  the  Indians,  whom  they  did  not,  as  yet, 
know.  They  were  then  admitted  into  the  fort,  delivered 
up  their  arms  according  to  custom,  and  were  lodged  in 
a  small  room  in  the  lower  story  of  the  main  house  A 
day  or  two  after  this,  he  beat,  and  put  one  of  these 
Indians,  a  native  of  Nop,  in  irons,  as  Peter  was  toJd,  for 
having  committed  some  theft  in  Tako.  About  eight 
o'clock  of  the  evening  of  the  20th  of  April,  Mr.  John  gave 
liquor  to  the  Indians,  and  made  them  di'unk  ;  after  which 
he  called  the  white  men,  viz:  Laperti,  Pripe,  Lulaire,  He- 
roux,  Bellinger,  Simon,  Fleury,  McPherson,  Smith,  and 
Antoine  Kawanope.  During  this  time,  Peter  was  in  his 
own,  which  was  the  adjoining  room,  lying  awake  in  bed, 
and  overheard  all  that  passed.  He  heard  Mr.  John  say 
to  McPherson,  •'  Peter  is  not  among  us — where  is  he  ]  " 
McPherson  replied,  that  he  was  in  bed,  and  he  was  sent 
for  him,  by  Mr.  John.  Peter  in  consequence  went  into 
the  room  and  saw  all  the  men  seated  in  a  ring,  on  th  ; 
floor,  around  a  number  of  bottles  standinsf  within   tlu 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  397 

ring,  and  the  Indians  lying  dead  drunk  on  another  part 
of  the  floor.  Mr.  John  himself  was  standing  outside  of 
the  ring,  and  McPherson  placed  himself  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  ring  ;  neither  of  them  appeared  to  be  par- 
taking of  the  festivities  of  the  evening,  but  were  looking 
on,  and  forcing  the  people  to  drink.  Antoine  Kawanopee 
was  seated  on  his  bed,  apart  from  the  other  men,  per- 
fectly sober,  as  he  told  Peter  afterward.  Mr.  John  had 
ordered  him  not  to  drink,  observing,  **  You  are  not  to 
drink  at  this  time,  as  I  am  going  to  die  to-night,  and  you 
will  help  me  in  what  I  am  going  to  do."  On  entering 
the  room,  Mr.  John  told  Peter  to  sit  down  with  the  other 
people,  and  ordered  his  servant  Fleury  to  give  him  a  good 
dram,  which  he  did  in  a  tin-pan.  Peter  could  not  drink 
the  whole,  and  was  threatened  by  Mr.  John  with  vio- 
lence if  he  did  not  finish  it.  He  succeeded  in  emptying 
the  pan,  by  allowing  the  liquor  to  run  into  the  bosom  of 
his  shirt.  Mr.  John,  in  doing  this,  did  not  appear  to  be 
angry,  but  in  a  half  playful  mood.  Peter  remained  there 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  during  which  time  he  was 
careful  not  to  drink  too  much,  as  a  few  hours  previously 
Antoine  had  called  at  his  room  and  said,  "  My  Uncle, 
take  care  of  yourself  to-night ;  the  master  is  going  to  die." 
Peter  said,  "  Who  is  going  to  kill  him  f  and  Antoine 
said,  "  The  Bluemen,"  meaning  the  Kanakas,  "are  going 
to  kill  him."  This,  Peter  thought,  was  likely  to  be  the 
case,  as  the  men,  some  time  before  Christmas  preceding, 
had  agreed  among  themselves  to  murder  him,  and  had 
signed  a  paper,  which  McPherson  drew  up  to  that  effect. 
Every  one  of  the  men  of  the  place  agreed  to  the  commis- 
sion of  this  deed,  Smith  and  Heron,  as  well  others. 
Peter's  name  was  signed  by  McPherson  and  he  attested 
it  by  his  cross.  This  paper  was  signed  in  Urbaine's 
house,  where  the  men  severally  repaired  by  stealth  for 
the  purpose,  as  Mr.  John  kept  so  vigilant  a  watch  upon 
them,  that  they  were  afraid  he  might  suspect  their  inten- 
tions, if  they  were  there  in  a  body.  The  same  impres- 
sion made  him  also  remark,  in  a  low  tone  of  voice,  to 
Laperti,  on  his  first  entering  the  room,  when  he  observed 
Mr.  John  forcing  the  people  to  drink,  "  I  really  believe 


398  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

our  master  feels  his  end  near,  as  he  never  used  to  act  in 
this  manner." 

As  above  mentioned,  after  Peter  had  been  about  fifteen 
minutes  in  the  room  where  the  men  vv^ere  drinking,  Mr. 
John  retii'ed,  follov^ed  by  Antoine.  Mr.  John  had  not 
on  that  occasion  drank  any  thing  with  the  men,  neither 
did  he  (Peter)  ever  see  him  at  any  time  preceding,  drink 
in  their  company.  He,  however,  supposed  that  he  must 
have  taken  something  in  his  own  room,  as  he  appeared 
flushed  and  excited,  but  not  sufficiently  so  as  to  render 
his  gait  in  the  least  unsteady.  McPherson  also  did  not 
taste  any  thing  in  the  room.  As  soon  as  Mr.  John  was 
gone,  Peter  also  left  the  room,  and  went  to  bed  in  his 
own  room. 

Peter  was  informed  by  Antoine  that  Mr.  John,  on 
leaving  the  room  where  the  men  were  drinking,  went 
up  stairs  to  his  own  apartment,  and  he  heard  him  say  to 
his  wife,  ''  I  am  going  to  die  to-night."  And  he  and  his 
wife  both  began  to  cry.  Mr.  John  soon  rallied,  and 
observed,  "Very  well,  if  I  die,  I  must  fall  like  a  man." 
He  then  told  Antoine  to  load  his  rifles  and  pistols,  and 
ordered  him  also  to  arm  himself  with  his  own  gun.  He 
and  Antoine  then  went  out,  and  Peter  thinks  he  heard 
the  report  of  more  than  fifteen  shots.  Antoine  after- 
wards told  Peter  that  Mr.  John  fired  at  Laperti,  but 
missed  him,  and  afterwards  ordered  Antoine  to  fire  at 
Laperti.  Antoine  refused  to  do  so,  until  his  own  life 
was  threatened  by  Mr.  John,  when  he  fired  in  the  direc- 
tion, without  aiming  at  Laperti.  He  also  told  the  Kana- 
kas to  kill  the  Canadians,  and  it  was  in  part  them  who 
fired  the  shots  that  he  (Peter)  had  heard.  Peter  then 
got  up  and  placed  himself  behind  his  door,  and  saw  Mr. 
John  come  in  and  go  up  stairs  with  Antoine,  when  he 
took  the  opportunity  of  going  out,  armed  with  his  gun 
and  a  stout  bludgeon,  and  found  the  men  standing  here 
and  there  on  the  gallery  watching  an  opportunity  to 
shoot  Mr.  John.  Laperti's  position  on  the  gallery  was 
fronting  the  door  of  the  main  house,  towards  which  he 
had  his  gun  pointed  ;  when  Peter  saw  him,  he  was  on 
his  knees,  the  smafl  end  of  the  gun  resting  on  the  top 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  :399 

rail  of  the  gallery,  in  readiness  to  fire.  Laperti  ex- 
claimed, on  seeing  Peter,  "  I  must  kill  him  now,  as  he 
has  fired  two  shots  at  me."  Peter  objected  to  this,  and 
proposed  to  take  and  tie  him.  Nobody  answered  him. 
At  that  moment,  Smith  came  up  to  Laperti  and  told  him 
to  hide  himself  or  he  would  certainly  be  killed.  Laperti 
said,  "Where  can  I  hide  myself?"  And  Smith  said, 
*^  Come  with  me  and  I  will  show  you  a  place  in  the  bastion 
where  you  can  hide  yourself,"  and  they  went  off  together 
in  the  direction  of  the  bastion  at  the  corner  of  Urbaine's 
house.  Peter,  after  a  few  minutes'  stay  on  the  gallery, 
returned  to  his  house,  as  he  had  previously  agreed  upon 
with  George  Hebram,  who  was  lying  sick  in  bed,  and 
who  had  entreated  him  not  to  leave  him  alone.  At  the 
door  of  the  main  house,  he  met  Mr.  John  coming  out, 
followed  by  Antoine,  wh^  was  carrying  a  lamp.  Mr. 
John  said  to  Peter,  *•'  Have  you  seen  Laperti  1 "  Peter 
answered,  ^'  No,  I  have  not  seen  him."  And  then  Mr, 
John  said,  ^'  Have  you  seen  Urbaine  1 "  And  Peter 
again  answered  that  he  had  not.  The  minute  before 
this,  as  he  (Peter)  was  returning  from  the  gallery,  he 
had  seen  Urbaine  standing  at  the  corner  of  the  main 
house,  next  to  Urbaine's  own  dwelling,  in  -company  with 
Simon,  Urbaine  said,  "  I  don't  know  what  to  do  ;  I 
have  no  gun,  and  do  not  know  where  to  hide  myself." 
Simon  said,  "  I  have  a  gun,  if  he  comes  I  will  shoot  him, 
and  will  be  safe."  Mr.  John,  after  Peter  passed  him, 
said  to  Antoine,  "  Make  haste,  and  come  with  the  lamp," 
and  proceeded  with  a  firm  step  to  Urbaine's  house,  as 
Peter,  who  continued  watching  at  the  door,  saw.  After 
he  saw  them  go  to  Urbaine's  house,  he  proceeded  towards 
his  own  room,  and  he  and  Antoine  called  out,  "  Fire ! 
fire ! "  Tj:ie  report  of  several  shots,  probably  five,  im- 
mediately followed,  and  he  heard  Antoine  exclaiming, 
^'  Stop  !  stop  !  stop  !  He  is  dead  now."  Antoine  after- 
wards related  to  Peter,  that  on  reaching  Urbaine^s  house^ 
Mr.  John  ordered  him  to  go  round  by  one  corner,  while 
he  went  round  by  the  other,  directing  Antoine  to  shoot 
any  of  the  Canadians  he  might  meet.  Mr.  John  then 
proceeded  in  a  stooping  position,  looking  very  intently 


400  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

before  him,  when  a  shot  was  fired  from  the  corner  of  the 
house  towards  which  he  was  goings  which  caused  his 
death,  tlie  ball  having  entered  at  the  upper  part  of  the 
breast-bone,  a  little  below  the  gullet,  and  came  out  a 
little  below  the  shoulder,  having  broken  the  spine  in  its 
passage.  Peter  was  also  told  by  one  of  the  Kanakas, 
that  as  soon  as  Mr.  John  fell,  Urbaine  sprung  forward 
from  the  corner  of  the  house  within  a  few  paces  of  the 
body,  and  put  his  foot  savagely  on  his  neck,  as  if  to 
complete  the  act,  should  the  ball  have  failed  in  causing 
death.  The  Kanakas  immediately  asked  Urbaine,  who  had 
killed  the  master '?  Urbaine  replied,  "  It  is  none  of  your 
business  who  has  killed  him  !  Peter,  who  during  this 
time  had  removed  to  his  house,  seeing  Herron  go  out 
without  his  gun,  went  out  round  the  body  and  said, 
*'  My  friend,  we  have  now  done  what  we  long  intended 
to  do  ;  let  us  now  carry  the  body  back  to  the  house.'^ 
Urbaine,  Laperti,  Bellinger,  and  other  white  men  who 
were  present,  replied,  "  When  we  kill  a  dog,  we  let  him 
lie  where  we  kill  him."  And  Antoine  told  him  they  had 
previously  given  him  the  same  reply  to  a  similar  propo- 
sition from  him.  Peter  then  approached  the  body  and, 
with  one  hand  under  the  neck,  raised  the  head  and  trunk, 
when  a  deep  expiration  followed,  w^hich  was  the  last 
sign  of  animation.  He  had  previously  perceived  no  signs 
of  life,  nor  did  he  hear  any  one  say  that  any  appeared 
after  the  deceased  fell.  The  white  men  being  unwiUing 
to  assist  him,  he  carried  the  body,  with  the  aid  of  the 
Kanakas,  into  the  main  house,  where  he  had  it  stripped, 
washed  clean,  decently  dressed,  and  laid  out.  In  doing 
so  he  received  no  help  from  any  but  the  Kanakas,  The 
wounds  made  by  the  balls  were  very  large,  both  open- 
ings being'  circular,  and  severally  three  inches  in  diame- 
ter. The  body  bled  profusely,  there  being  a  deep  pool 
of  blood  found  around  it,  which  was  washed  away  after- 
wards by  the  Kanakas.  Peter  never  heard  that  he  spoke 
or  moved  after  he  fell.  There  was  a  perpendicular  cut 
on  the  forehead,  skin-deep,  in  a  line  with  the  nose,  which 
Peter  thinks  was  caused  by  his  falling  on  the  barrel  of 
his  rifle,  though  Urbaine  said  that  he  had  received  it 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  401 

from  an  Indian  with  his  dog.  It  was  as  Peter  supposes 
about  eleven  o'clock,  p.  m.,  when  he  had  done  washing 
and  laying  out  the  body ;  the  watches  had  not  then  been 
changed,  therefore  he  thinks  it  could  not  be  midnight. 
The  people  continued  coming  and  going  during  the  night, 
to  see  the  body,  and  Peter  proposed  praying  over  the 
body,  as  is  customary  in  Canada  ;  but  they  objected, 
saying,  they  did  not  wish  to  pray  for  him.  He  did  sit 
up  with  the  body  all  night,  having  soon  after  gone,  first 
to  Urbaine's  and  then  to  Lulaire's  house,  who  each  gave 
him  a  dram,  which  he  took,  saying,  "There  is  no  need  of 
drinking  now ;  they  might  drink  their  fill  now."  He  soon 
afterwards  went  to  bed. 

He  inquired  of  Martineau,  who  also  lived  in  the  same 
room,  if  he  had  fired  at  the  deceased.  He  replied,  that 
he  had  fired  twice.  He  then  asked  him  if  it  was  he 
that  had  killed  him,  and  he  said,  I  do  not  know  if  it  was 
me  or  not.  He  (Peter)  put  the  same  question  to  several 
of  the  other  men  whom  he  saw  afterwards  ;  they  all 
said  that  they  had  not  shot  him,  and  Martineau  after- 
wards said  that  he  had  not  directed  his  gun  at  him,  but 
had  fired  in  the  air. 

The  following  morning  he  asked  Antoine  Kawanope 
if  he  knew  who  had  killed  the  deceased.  He  replied, 
"I  know  who  killed  him,  but  I  am  not  going  to  tell  you, 
or  any  one  else.  When  the  governor  comes,  I  will  tell 
him.  He  asked  Antoine  why  he  would  not  tell  ;  he 
said  he  was  afraid  it  might  cause  more  quarrels,  and 
lead  to  other  murders.  He  then  advised  Antoine  not 
to  conceal  it  from  him,  as  he  would  tell  no  one.  An- 
toine then  said,  he  thought  it  was  Urbaine  who  had  done 
the  deed.  Peter  observed  that  Urbaine  had  no  gun. 
Antoine  replied,  "  I  think  it  was  Urbaine,  because  as  soon 
as  the  deceased  fell,  Urbaine  rushed  out  from  his  lurking 
place  at  the  corner  of  the  house,  where,  I  was  informed 
by  the  people,  he  always  kept  his  gun  secreted,  with  the 
intention  of  shooting  the  deceased."  Peter  says  Laperti, 
Urbaine  and  Simon  were  all  concealed  in  the  corner 
whence  the  shot  came,  and  he  thinks  it  to  be  one  of  the 
three  who  fired  it.  Urbaine  always  denied  having  com- 
17* 


402  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

mitted  the  murder,  and  said,  ''  I  am  going  to  the  Russian 
Fort  for  trial,  and  will  be  either  banished  or  hung.  I 
will  let  the  thing  go  to  the  end,  and  will  then  inform 
upon  the  murderers." 

Simon  always  said  that  he  was  never  in  the  corner 
from  whence  the  shot  was  fired,  and  knew  nothing  about 
the  matter  ;  but  Peter  thinks  that  he  must  have  been 
there,  as  he  saw  him,  as  before  related,  at  the  corner  of 
the  main  house,  when  he  promised  to  protect  Urbaine, 
and  from  the  situation  of  the  fort,  he  must  have  passed 
that  spot  with  Urbaine,  as  there  was  no  other  passage 
from  the  place  where  they  had  been  standing.  Laperti 
also  said  he  never  fired  at  all.  When  Peter,  as  before 
related,  went  upon  the  gallery  after  the  first  firing  had 
ceased,  while  Mr.  John  and  Antoine  had  gone  into  the 
house,  he  saw  all  the  men  on  the  gallery,  except  Pripe, 
Lulaire  and  McPherson,  and  he  asked  each  of  them, 
respectively,  if  they  were  going  to  shoot  the  master  that 
night,  and  they  all  answered,  (as  well  as  himself,)  they 
would  do  so  at  the  first  chance,  except  Pehou,  a  Kanaka, 
who  would  not  consent  to  the  murder.  Smith  was  then 
without  a  gun. 

Before  the  Christmas  preceding  Peter  put  the  ques- 
tion to  Smith,  how  he  should  like  to  see  him  kill  Mr. 
John  1  He  replied,  "  I  should  like  it  very  well ;  I  would 
have  no  objection,  because  his  conduct  is  so  very  bad 
that  he  can  never  expect  to  be  protected  by  the  Com- 
pany." Peter  Manifree  says,  that  Mr.  John  appeared 
to  be  aware  of  the  plot  formed  by  the  men  against  his 
life,  as  he  supposes,  through  the  information  of  Fleury, 
his  servant,  who  was  aware  of  every  thing  that  passed 
among  them.  Mr.  John  had  often  said  to  the  men, 
"  Kill  me,  if  you  can.  If  you  kill  me,  you  will  not  kill 
a  woman — you  will  kill  a  man."  And  he  kept  Antoine 
as  a  sentinel  to  watch  his  room.  One  evening  George 
Herron  proposed  taking  his  life,  and  said  if  he  could  find 
a  man  to  go  with  him,  he  would  be  the  first  to  shoot 
him.  Peter  refused  to  go,  and  Herron  watched  a  great 
part  of  the  night  in  the  passage  leading  to  Mr.  John's 
room,  holding  his  gun  pointed  towards  its  door,  with  the 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  403 

object  of  shooting  Mr.  John  if  he  appeared,  as  he  usually 
did  at  night  when  going  to  visit  the  watchmen  ;  but  he 
did  not  go  out  that  night,  or  Peter  thinks  that  he  would 
have  been  shot  by  Herron,  The  following  morning 
Peter  asked  Antoine  if  he  would  defend  Mr.  John,  were 
he  attacked  by  the  people.  Antoine  said  he  would  not, 
and  would  be  the  first  man  to  seize  or  shoot  him,  should 
any  attempt  be  made  against  his  life  or  Hberty.  He  put 
the  same  question  to  McPherson  ;  but  McPherson  said, 
*'  No !  Do  not  kill  him  till  the  Governor  comes,  by  and 
by,  and  then  we  shall  have  redress." 

Peter  also  says  that  all  the  unmarried  men  were  in 
the  habit  of  secretly  going  out  of  the  fort  at  night,  con- 
trary to  order,  to  visit  the  Indian  camp,  and  that  one 
evening  when  he  wished  to  go  out,  he  met  George 
Herron  on  the  gallery,  who  showed  him  where  a  rope 
was  slung  to  the  picket,  by  which  he  might  let  himself 
down  to  the  ground  outside  of  the  fort,  saying,  "  This  is 
the  way  I  and  others  get  out,  and  you  may  do  the  same 
without  fear  of  detection."  On  the  morning  after  the 
murder  he  went  into  Urbaine's  and  Lulaire's  house  and 
got  a  dram  in  each  of  them,  out  of  two  bottles  of  rum 
which  he  saw  there.  He  said,  now  Mr.  John  is  dead,  I 
shall  go  out  of  the  fort  and  spend  the  day  with  my  wife. 
Urbaine  replied,  "  No !  No  one  shall  go  out  of  the  fort. 
We  keep  the  keys,  and  we  shall  keep  the  gates  shut." 
Peter  was  angry  at  this  and  said  to  Antoine,  '^  When 
Mr.  John  was  alive,  he  kept  us  prisoners,  and  would  not 
allow  us  to  run  after  women  ;  and  now  that  we  have 
killed  him,  the  Canadians  wish  to  keep  us  as  close  as  he 
did.  I  see  we  must  raise  the  devil  again  with  these 
Canadians,  before  we  can  get  our  liberty." 

Peter  also  says  that  one  principal  cause  of  their  dislike 
to  John,  and  their  plots  against  his  life,  was  the  strictness 
with  which  he  prevented  their  sallying  from  the  fort  in 
quest  of  women  ;  that  he  flogged  Martineau  for  having 
given  his  blanket  to  a  woman  with  whom  he  maintained 
illicit  commerce,  and  he  also  flogged  Lamb  and  Kakepe 
for  giving  away  their  clothes  in  the  same  manner.  This, 
Peter  says,  exasperated  the  men. 


404  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

The  day  after  the  murder  many  of  the  men  went  up 
to  Mr.  John's  room  to  see  the  body,  and  McPherson 
remarked  to  them,  that  when  the  master  was  living  they 
were  not  in  the  habit  of  coming  up  there  ;  but  they  did 
so  now  that  he  was  dead.  On  hearing  this,  Peter  and 
Urbaine  went  away  and  never  returned.  On  their  way 
to  their  own  house,  they  met  Pripe  and  BelHnger. 

Urbaine  told  them  what  McPherson  had' said,  and  in 
a  threatening  manner  said,  "  McPherson  is  getting  proud 
as  the  other,  and  will  be  telling  tales  about  us.  We  will 
not  murder  him,  but  we  will  give  him  a  sound  thrashing." 
And  Peter  says  that  he  soon  after  went  to  Smith  and 
told  him  to  put  McPherson  on  his  guard,  as  the  Cana- 
dians intended  to  attack  him.  Smith  asked  Peter  what 
he  would  do,  now  the  master  was  dead,  and  Peter  said  he 
would  obey  McPhersons  orders.  Smith  replied,  "  That 
is  good,  Peter.  If  we  do  not  do  so,  we  shall  lose  all  our 
wages."  All  the  Canadians,  and,  he  thinks,  Simon,  con- 
tinued drinking  the  whole  of  the  day  following  the  mur- 
der ;  the  other  men  of  the  fort,  did  not  drink.  He  thinks 
it  was  the  remains  of  the  liquor  they  had  been  drinking 
the  preceding  night.  Peter  also  says  that,  for  a  month 
previous  to  the  murder,  Urbaine,  Laperti  and  Simon 
were  in  the  habit  of  getting  drunk  every  night  on  rum 
purchased  from  the  Indians.  Peter  told  them  to  take 
care  of  themselves,  because  Mr.  John  would  be  angry  if 
he  knew^  it.  Mr.  John  took  no  notice  of  their  conduct, 
because,  as  Peter  thinks,  he  knew  of  the  plot  against  his 
life,  and  felt  intimidated.  He  also  says  that  Laperti  was 
excited  against  Mr.  John  on  account-of  a  suspected  in- 
trigue which  he  carried  on  with  his  wife.  The  night 
following  the  murder,  they  all  went  to  bed  quietly.  The 
next  day  all  was  also  quiet,  and  all  work  suspended, 
except  watching  the  Indians,  which  they  did  very  closely, 
as  they  were  afraid  they  might  be  induced  to  attack  the 
fort,  on  learning  that  the  master  was  no  more.  They 
continued  watching  turn-a-bout.  The  second  day  a  coffin 
was  made,  and  the  corpse  removed  from  the  main  house 
to  the  bath,  when  McPherson  gave  the  men  a  dram. 
The  third  day  the  corpse  was  buried  and  the  men  Ittid 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  405 

another  dram.  He  does  not  know  whether  the  men 
asked  for  the  dram,  or  whether  McPherson  gave  it  of  his 
own  accord.  The  corpse  was  carried  to  the  grave  by 
Laperti,  Pripe,  Luclaire  and  some  Kanakas,  but  Urbaine 
did  not  touch  it;  does  not  think  it  was  through  fear. 
Peter  often  heard  Laperti  say,  I  wish  the  Governor  was 
here,  to  see  what  he  would  do.  He  also  says  there  was 
no  quarrel  in  the  room  where  they  w^ere  drinking,  on  the 
night  of  the  murder  ;  but  he  thinks  there  might  have 
been  a  quarrel  after  they  left,  as  Pripe  was  put  in  irons 
after  that  time.  He  also  says  that  the  Canadians  must 
have  fixed  on  that  night  to  murder  him,  and  that  Fleury 
told  him  so,  which  accounts  for  his  apparent  dejection  of 
mind,  and  of  his  having  shed  tears  in  presence  of  his  wife 
and  Antoine,  when  he  said,  ''  I  know  that  I  am  going  to 
die  this  night."  He  also  thinks  this  might  have  led  to 
the  outbreak,  but  of  this  he  is  not  sure.  It  is  a  mere 
matter  of  opinion.  Mr.  John  was  a  little  in  liquor,  but 
knew  perfectly  well  what  he  was  about.  He  never  saw 
him  so  far  gone  with  liquor  as  not  to  be  able  to  walk 
actively  about,  except  on  one  occasion,  the  preceding 
Christmas  Eve,  when  he  appeared  to  walk  unsteady,  but 
nevertheless  could  mount  the  gallery.  They  only  knew 
he  had  tasted  liquor  from  the  excitement  and  changed 
appearance  of  his  countenance.  He  does  not  know  who 
first  suggested  the  idea  of  murdering  Mr.  John. 

Since  the  above  disclosures  were  made,  a  few  other 
facts  have  come  to  light,  which,  however,  do  not  mate- 
rially effect  the  character  of  these  atrocities.  Mr.  John 
McLaughlin,  Jr.,  was  doubtless  intemperate,  reckless,  and 
tyrannical,  and  often  unnecessarily  cruel  in  the  punish- 
ments inflicted  upon  his  men  ;  but  he  was  surrounded  by 
a  set  of  desperadoes,  who,  for  months  before  the  arrival 
of  the  night,  during  the  darkness  of  which,  the  fatal  shot 
ushered  him  into  the  presence  of  his  Judge,  had  been 
seeking  an  opportunity  to  rob  him  of  fife.  Some  time 
before  this  event,  he  flogged  Peter  for  the  crime  of 
stealing  fish.  Peter  was  exceedingly  angry,  and  resolved 
upon  the  destruction  of  his  master.  At  a  time  to  suit  his 
purpose,  he  went  to  the  bastion,  where  were  fire-arms, 


406  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

loaded  to  his  hands,  and  rung  the  bell  of  alarm,  with  the 
intention  of  shooting  Mr.  McLaughlin  when  he  should 
make  his  appearance.  A  man  by  the  name  of  Perse, 
came  out  to  see  what  was  the  matter,  instead  of  the 
intended  victim,  when  Peter  fired,  but  missed  him,  the 
ball  hitting  a  post  near  his  head.  For  this  offence,  Peter 
was  again  seized,  put  in  irons,  and  subsequently  severely 
flogged  and  liberated.  Nearly  all  the  men  had  been  flog- 
ged from  time  to  time,  for  various  offences,  and  all  con- 
spired against  the  life  of  their  master.  As  might  have 
been  expected,  when  the  case  was  examined  by  Sir 
George  Simpson,  the  murderers  attempted  to  cast  all  the 
odium  upon  Mr.  McLaughlin,  doubtless  for  the  purpose 
of  exculpating  themselves,-in  which  attempt  they  but  too 
well  succeeded,  in  the  estimation  of  Sir  George.  Whether 
the  persons  who  procured  his  death,  would  be  pronounced, 
by  an  intelligent  jury,  guilty  of  wilful  murder,  or  whether, 
from  the  mitigating  circumstances  connected  with  these 
transactions,  the  verdict  should  assume  a  more  modified 
form,  is  not  for  me  to  determine.  But  it  cannot  be  denied 
by  any  one,  that  the  circumstances  must  be  indeed  extra- 
ordinary, that  will  justify  any  man,  or  set  of  men,  to  cut 
short  the  probation  of  an  immortal  being,  and  usher  him, 
with  all  his  unrepented  sins,  into  the  presence  of  his  God. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


Oregon  territory  — History  continued —  Mr.  Asliley's  expedition  — Smith,  Jackson,  and 
Sublette  —  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company  —  Interesting  journey  —  Country  explored 
—  Independent  parties  —  Boneville  —  Red  Wolf—  Captain  Wyeih  —  Opposed  by  H. 
B.  C.  —  Results  —  Immigration  for  settlement  —  Character  of  population  —  Sources 
wlience  it  proceeds  —  Enterprise  —  Portions  of  country  occupied. 

For  eight  years  after  the  surrender  of  Astoria  to  the 
British,  and  the  destruction  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company, 
in  1814,  a  British  corporation  held  undisputed  sway 
over  the  wilds  of  Oregon.  Hordes  of  English  trappers 
scoured  its  mountain  chains  upon  their  fleet  horses,  and 
ransacked  its  deepest  valleys,  while  the  Americans, 
worsted  in  the  affair  of  Astoria,  confined  their  operations 
on  the  east  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  North 
American  Company,  of  which  Mr.  Astor  was  also  the 
head,  explored  the  country  of  the  great  Lakes,  the  head- 
waters of  the  Mississippi,  the  Missouri,  and  had  estab- 
lished posts  high  up  on  the  Yellow  Stone,  when  another 
company  was  organized,  in  1822,  under  the  name  of  the 
Columbia  Fur  Company,  wnth  the  design  of  extending  its 
operations  into  those  western  regions  hitherto  under  the 
monopoly  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  Accordingly, 
in  the  spring  of  1823,  Mr.  W.  H.  Ashley,  of  St.  Louis, 
fitted  out  an  expedition  for  the  Oregon  country,  crossed 
the  Rocky  Mountain  chain,  between  the  sources  of  the 
Platte  and  Colorado,  near  the  forty-second  parallel,  ob- 
tained a  large  amount  of  furs,  and,  in  the  fall,  transported 
them  in  safety  to  St.  Louis.  In  the  following  year  he 
returned  across  the  mountains  with  about  one  hundred 
men,  whom  he  left  in  the  country  to  hunt  and  trap  ; 
and,  although  they  were  opposed  by  the  Hudson's  Bay 


408  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

Company  in  every  way,  yet  the  furs  collected  by  them 
m  three  years,  amounted  to  the  sum  of  one  hundred  and 
eighty  thousand  dollars.  In  these  first  expeditions  of 
Ashley  from  St.  Louis,  the  goods  were  all  transported 
on  the  backs  of  horses  ;  but  in  1827,  he  sent  sixty  men 
across  the  mountains  with  a  piece  of  cannon  drawn  by 
mules,  which  was  planted  in  the  vicinity  of  the  great 
Salt  Lake,  or  Lake  Yauta,  which  lies  south  of  the  forty- 
second  parallel  ;  and,  after  collecting  the  furs,  and  dis- 
tributing supplies  among  the  hunters,  they  returned  to 
Missouri,  having  been  absent  just  seven  months. 

In  1826,  a  company  was  formed  in  St.  Louis  by 
Messrs.  Smith,  Jackson  and  Sublette,  and,  having  sub- 
sequently purchased  Mr.  Ashley's  establishments  and 
interests,  they  carried  on  a  successful  trade  with  the 
countries  of  the  Columbia,  under  the  name  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Fur  Company.  The  first  expedition  with 
wagons  to  the  Rocky  Mountains  was  made  by  this 
company  in  1829,  and  as  an  account  of  it  will  serve  to 
show  both  the  mode  and  the  route  usually  pursued  by  the 
emigrants  at  the  present  day,  I  subjoin  the  following, 
which  appeared  in  connection  with  President  Jackson's 
Message  in  1831  ; 

"On  the  10th  of  April  last,  (1829,)  we  set  out  from 
St.  Louis  with  eighty-one  men,  all  mounted  on  mules, 
ten  wagons,  each  drawn  by  five  mules,  and  two  dear- 
borns, (light  carriages  or  carts,)  each  drawn  by  one 
mule.  Our  route  was  nearly  due  west  to  the  western 
hmits  of  the  State  of  Missouri,  and  thence  along  the 
Santa  Fe  trail,  about  forty  miles  from  which  the  course 
was  some  degrees  north  of  west,  across  the  waters  of 
the  Kansas,  and  up  the  great  Platte  River  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  to  the  head  of  Wind  River  where  it 
issues  from  the  mountains.  This  took  us  until  the  16th 
of  July,  and  was  as  far  as  we  wished  to  go  with  the 
wagons,  as  the  furs  to  be  brought  in  were  to  be  collected 
at  this  place,  which  is,  or  was  this  year,  the  great  ren- 
dezvous of  the  persons  engaged  in  that  business.  Here 
the  wagons  could  easily  have  crossed  the  mountains,  it 
being  what  is  called   the  Southern  Pass    had  it  been 


<»REGON    TERRITORY.  409 

desirable  for  them  to  do  so,  which  it  was  not  for  the 
reasons  stated.  For  our  support  at  leaving  the  Missouri 
settlements,  until  we  should  get  into  the  buflalo  country, 
we  drove  twelve  head  of  cattle  besides  a  milch  cow. 
Eight  of  these  only  being  required  for  use  before  we  got 
to  the  buffaloes,  the  others  went  on  to  the  head  of  Wind 
River.  We  began  to  fall  in  with  buflialoes  on  the  Platte, 
about  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  white  set- 
tlements, and  from  that  time  lived  on  buffaloes,  the 
quantity  being  infinitely  beyond  what  we  needed.  On 
the  4th  of  August,  the  wagons  being  in  the  mean  time 
loaded  with  the  furs  which  had  been  previously  taken, 
we  set  out  on  our  return  to  St.  Louis.  All  the  high 
points  of  the  mountains  then  in  view  were  white  with 
snow ;  but  the  passes  and  valleys,  and  all  the  level 
country,  were  green  with  grass.  Our  route  back  was 
over  the  same  ground  nearly  as  in  going  out,  and  we 
arrived  at  St.  Louis  on  the  10th  of  October,  bringing 
back  the  ten  wagons,  four  of  the  oxen,  and  the  milch 
cow,  as  we  did  not  need  them  for  provisions.  Our  men 
were  all  healthy  during  the  w^hole  time  ;  we  suflTered 
nothing  from  the  Indians,  and  had  no  accident,  but  the 
death  of  one  man,  being  buried  under  a  bank  of  earth 
that  fell  in  upon  him,  and  another  crippled  at  the  same 
time.  Of  the  mules  we  lost  but  one  by  fatigue,  and  two 
horses  stolen  by  the  Kansas  Indians  ;  the  grass  being 
along  the  whole  route,  going  and  coming,  suflScient  for 
the  support  of  the  horses  and  mules.  The  usual  weight 
in  the  wagons  was  about  one  thousand  eight  hundred 
pounds.  The  usual  progress  of  the  wagons  was  from 
fifteen  to  twenty-five  miles  per  day.  The  country  being 
almost  all  open,  level  and  prairie,  the  chief  obstructions 
were  ravines  and  creeks,  the  banks  of  which  required 
cutting  down,  and  for  this  purpose  a  few  pioneers  were 
generally  kept  in  advance  of  the  caravan.  This  is  the 
first  time  that  wagons  ever  went  to  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, and  the  ease  and  safety  with  which  it  was  done, 
prove  the  facility  of  communicating  overland  w4th  the 
Pacific  Ocean.  '  The  route  from  the  Southern  Pass, 
where   the  wagons  stopped,  to   the  Great  Falls  of  the 


410  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

Columbia,  being  easier  and  better  than  on  this  side  of 
the  mountains,  with  grass  enough  for  the  horses  and 
mules  ;  but  a  scarcity  of  game  for  the  support  of 
men." 

This  company  continued  its  operations  for  a  number 
of  years,  and  its  agents  explored  the  whole  country 
from  St.  Louis,  by  the  way  of  Taos  and  Santa  Fe,  to 
the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  ;  thence  along  the  coast  of 
the  Pacific  north  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  ;  and  all 
the  vast  interior  from  Fort  Vancouver  to  the  country 
of  the  Blackfeet  and  Sioux  was  faithfully  examined  ; 
but,  in  consequence  of  the  deadly  hostility  of  the  Indian 
tribes,  and  the  direct  and  unbending  opposition  of  the 
great  English  monopoly,  the  company  withdrew  from 
the  territories  w^est,  and  for  years  has  confined  its  ope- 
rations on  the  east  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  above  named  are  the  principal  American  compa- 
nies which  have  extended  their  operations  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  since  the  famous  expedition  of  Astoria, 
under  the  direction  of  Wilson  Price  Hunt.  Several 
independent  parties  of  adventurers,  however,  have,  from 
time  to  time,  turned  their  backs  upon  civilization,  and, 
some  actuated  by  curiosity,  and  others  by  the  love  of 
gain,  have  traced  the  waters  of  the  rivers  which  flow 
westward,  to  the  Pacific  ocean ;  and  after  spending 
years  among  the  Indians,  have  returned  to  the  world 
information  concerning  the  regions  hitherto  but  little 
known,  which  they  had  explored. 

In  1832,  Captain  Bonneville,  of  the  United  States 
Army,  led  a  band  across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  of  more 
than  one  hundred  men,  and  remained  in  the  country 
drained  by  the  Snake  river  and  its  branches  for  two 
years,  employed  in  the  collection  of  furs.  The  adven- 
tures of  this  intrepid  officer  have  been  made  known  by 
Washington  Irving,  and  need  not  be  repeated  here. 
Suffice  it  to  say  that  when  the  writer  visited  the  coun- 
try of  the  Snake  river,  in  1842,  an  incident  of  Bonne- 
ville's experience  in  that  country,  was  related  to  him  by 
Red  Wolf,  an  Indian  chief  of  the  Nez  Perce  tribe. 
Bonneville   had   met  with  the  most  violent  opposition 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  411 

from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  in  his  trade,  and  in 
attempting  to  leave  a  portion  of  the  country  where 
every  thing,  even  to  the  game,  appeared  to  be  under 
their  control,  he  and  his.  party,  which,  by  desertion  and 
other  causes,  had  been  greatly  reduced,  lost  their  way, 
and  wandered  without  food  for  three  days  and  nights. 
At  length,  in  a  state  of  starvation,  they  fell  in  with  Red 
Wolf  and  his  party  on  the  Snake  or  Lewis  river,  and 
the  chief  received  them  kindly,  and  treated  them  with 
the  best  which  his  means  aftbrded,  which  was  the  flesh 
of  a  fat  horse,  which  he  killed  for  that  purpose.  After 
giving  them  this  timely  relief,  he  prevailed  upon  them  to 
tarry  with  him  a  few  days,  and  recruit  their  exhausted 
strength.  They  accepted  of  his  kind  offer,  and  were 
astonished  at  their  departure,  on  being  supplied  by  their 
Indian  benefactor  with  provisions  to  take  with  them,  and 
a  guide  to  conduct  them  on  to  their  proper  route. 

About  the  same  time  that  Bonneville  was  making  his 
transit  across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  Mr.  Nathaniel 
Wyeth,  of  Massachusetts,  was  endeavoring  to  establish 
a  direct  trade  between  the  United  States  and  the  Co- 
lumbia river.  In  addition  to  the  fur-trade,  Wyeth  had 
in  view  the  establishment  of  a  salmon-fishery  in  Oregon, 
from  which  he  hoped  to  receive  considerable  profits. 
With  these  views  he  dispatched  a  vessel  around  Cape 
Horn,  to  the  Columbia,  and  led  two  expeditions  across 
the  continent,  the  first  in  1832,  and  the  second  in  1834. 
To  facilitate  his  operations.  Captain  Wyeth  formed  two 
trading  stations,  one  in  the  south-east  corner  of  Oregon, 
near  the  junction  of  the  river  Poi'tneuf  with  the  Snake 
or  Lewis  river,  called  Fort  Hall,  and  the  other  on  Wap- 
pato  Island,  near  the  entrance  of  the  Wallamette  into 
the  Columbia,  and  about  seventy  miles  from  the  Pacific 
ocean,  called  Fort  William.  These  forts  were  advan- 
tageously situated  for  trade,  but  in  consequence  of  the 
numerous  disasters  which  happened  to  the  company,  but 
principally  on  account  of  the  unrelenting  hostility  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  to  all  American  enterprise  in 
Oregon,  Wyeth  was  obliged  to  relinquish  his  expedition, 
and  Fort  Hall  and  Fort  William  fell  into  the  hands  of 


I^PZ  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

that  monopoly.  Scores  of  lives  were  lost  in  Wyeth's 
expedition  ;  several  men  were  drowned,  but  more  killed 
by  the  Indians.  Wyeth  continued  his  effort  to  establish 
the  trade  for  three  years,  and  it  is  said  that,  at  the  close 
of  that  time,  of  two  hundred  men  whom  he  had  led  into 
Oregon,  but  forty  were  known  to  be  ahve,  all  the  rest 
having  fallen  victims  to  the  dangers  incident  to  the  fur- 
trade. 

This  enterprise,  though  failing  in  its  primary  objects, 
was  of  great  service,  not  only  to  the  United  States  in 
furnishing  important  information  respecting  the  territo- 
ries of  the  Columbia,  but  also  to  Oregon  itself  in  intro- 
ducing the  first  American  settlers,  in  assisting  the  lirst 
American  missionaries  across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
in  opening  the  way  for  future  emigrations  to  the  fertile 
plains  of  that  distant  country. 

Though  a  number  of  persons,  Americans  and  Canadian 
French,  who  accompanied  the  first  exploring  and  com- 
mercial expeditions  across  the  mountains,  had  previously 
taken  up  their  residence  in  Oregon,  yet  the  first  emigra- 
tions for  the  purpose  of  settlement,  were  made  in  1832. 
To  a  proper  understanding  of  the  character  of  the  present 
population  of  Oregon,  it  will  be  necessary  to  consider  the 
sources  whence  it  has  sprung. 

Probably  a  more  heterogeneous  mass  of  human  kind 
cannot  be  found  in  any  land,  than  have  sought  an  asylum 
in  the  wilds  of  Oregon.  Here  are  found  the  Indian,  who 
is  the  legitimate  proprietor  of  the  soil,  Englishmen, 
Scotchmen,  Irishmen,  Americans,  Germans,  Prussians, 
Italians,  Spanish,  Frenchmen,  Danes,  Canadians,  Ha- 
waiians,  Otehietans,  and  Africans.  From  continual  inter- 
marriages with  one  another,  and  particularly  with  the 
natives  of  the  country  ever  since  white  men  first  visited 
these  shores,  an  amalgamated  population  has  been  pro- 
duced, presenting  every  variety  of  color,  disposition,  and 
character  of  which  the  human  species  is  capable.  The 
English,  Scotch,  French,  and  some  others,  have  princi- 
pally been  introduced  into  the  country  through  the  in- 
strumentality of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  Many  of 
these  still  belong  to  the  company,  and  occupy  various 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  413 

fitations,  from  those  of  servants  and  clerks  up  through 
the  various  grades  of  office  to  the  chief  factors  and  su- 
perintendents. Others,  who  were  formerly  the  servants 
of  the  company,  becoming  in  some  cases  superannuated, 
in  others  unprofitable,  have  been  dismissed ;  and  the 
company  chose  rather  to  settle  them  in  the  country  and 
continue  to  exercise  a  controling  influence  over  them, 
than  to  return  them  to  the  lands  whence  they  came. 
The  numbers  which  have  sprung  from  this  source,  and 
are  now  residents  of  the  wilderness,  amount  to  nearly 
two  thousand  souls. 

Many  persons  have  found  their  way  to  Oregon  from 
the  numerous  vessels  which  have  touched  at  various 
points  along  its  extended  coast.  Scarcely  a  ship  has 
visited  the  Columbia  for  years,  from  which  two  or  more 
have  not  made  their  escape,  and,  secreting  themselves 
until  the  vessel  has  left,  they  have  come  forth  to  mingle 
with  the  inhabitants  as  citizens  of  Oregon.  Some  have 
deserted  their  ships  on  the  coast  of  California,  and  have 
fought  their  way  to  the  valley  of  the  Multnomah,  through 
the  hostile  tribes  that  roam  among  the  Clameth  and  Ump- 
qua  mountains.  Some  of  these  adventurous  seamen  are 
among  the  most  industrious,  temperate,  and  wholesome 
settlers  of  Oregon. 

The  Islands  of  the  Pacific  open  another  source  for  the 
supply  of  inhabitants  to  Oregon.  Hundreds  of  Hawaiians 
have  been  taken  from  the  Sandwich  Islands  by  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  and  by  private  individuals,  to  act 
as  house  servants  and  day-laborers,  for  which  they  have 
been  found  nmch  better  adapted  than  the  natives  of  the 
country.  Though  the  persons  employing  them  are 
obliged  to  enter  into  stipulations  with  the  Haw^aiian 
government  to  return  them  at  the  expiration  of  their 
term  of  service  ;  yet,  from  the  numerous  casualties  inci- 
dent to  their  new'  relations,  and,  those  who  survive,  be- 
coming warmly  attached  to  the  country  of  their  adoption, 
in  connection  with  the  superior  facilities  which  Oregon 
presents  to  the  Hawaiian,  when  compared  with  those  of 
his  native  land,  but  few  of  them  ever  return  to  their 
sea-girt  home. 


414  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

Another  somewhat  fruitful  source  for  the  supply  of 
inhabitants  to  the  fertile  valleys  of  Oregon,  has  been 
found,  singular  as  it  may  appear,  in  that  vast  range, 
called  "  The  Rocky  Mountains."  I  do  not  now  refer  to 
emigrants  direct  from  the  United  States,  who  are  obliged 
to  pass  through  the  gates  of  that  stupendous  range  on 
their  way  to  that  ^^ better  country"  which  they  seek, 
but  to  those  white  men,  who,  in  connection  with  the 
American  companies  established  for  purposes  of  traffick 
wath  the  Blackfeet,  Sioux,  and  other  Indians,  have  been 
collecting  for  the  last  forty  years  among  the  snow-clad 
mountains  w^hich  send  their  waters  both  to  the  Atlantic 
and  Pacific  Oceans.  There  are  men  still  living  in  the 
Wallamette  valley,  w^ho  accompanied  Lewis  and  Clark 
in  their  exploring  expedition  in  1805  and  1806  ;  and  I 
have  often  seen  persons  w^ho  were  the  companions  and 
fellow-travelers  of  Wilson  Price  Hunt,  one  of  the  part- 
ners of  John  Jacob  Astor,  in  his  trading  establishment  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  and  who  shared  with  that 
intrepid  traveler  in  all  the  perils  of  one  of  the  most  re- 
markable expeditions  of  the  kind  ever  carried  to  a  suc- 
cessful issue,  and  has  been  inimitably  described  in  Wash- 
ington Irving's  popular  ^^  Astoria."  Madame  Doric,  the 
heroine  of  that  interesting  narrative,  and  her  son,  who 
was  born  under  peculiar  circumstances  during  one  of 
their  encampments  on  their  journey  across  the  mountains, 
are  both  still  alive,  and  inhabitants  of  the  Wallamette 
valley. 

There  are  many  others,  most  of  whom  are  Americans, 
who,  after  having  spent  many  years  in  ranging  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  experiencing  the  most  surprising  adventures 
among  the  Indians,  and  enduring  every  variety  of  hard- 
ships which  human  nature  is  capable  of  suffering,  have 
at  last  found  a  peaceful  and  quiet  retreat,  where  they 
are  secure  from  the  savage  violence  of  the  Blackfoot, 
and  from  the  treachery  of  the  Sioux,  and  where  most 
of  them  will  close  their  earthly  career.  With  the  most 
thrilling  interest  I  have  heard  them  relate  their  mountain 
adventures  and  'Miair  breadth-escapes."  The  history 
of  some  of  them  will  doubtless  form  the  subject  of  many 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  415 

a  future  legend  replete  with  interest.  It  is  very  re- 
markable Avith  respect  to  this  class  of  inhabitants, 'that, 
while  they  doomed  themselves  to  a  precarious  subsist- 
ence among  the  hostile  clans  of  the  naountains,  they  con- 
tracted the  most  roving,  barbarous  and  depraved  habits  ; 
yet,  on  settling  down  amidst  the  increasingly  interesting 
society  of  Oregon,  most  of  them  become  steady,  peace- 
ful and  industrious  citizens.  While  ranging  the  moun- 
tains they  usually  connected  with  their's,  the  fortunes 
of  an  Indian  woman,  and  many  of  them,  in  process  of 
time,  became  surrounded  with  large  families  of  half-caste 
children.  They  had  a  natural  love  for  their  offspring, 
and  they  could  but  form  an  attachment  for  the  mothers 
of  their  sons  and  daughters  ;  consequently,  on  leaving 
the  scene  of  their  savage  life,  they  took  with  them  their 
wives  and  children,  anxious  that  both  might  be  benefited 
by  mingling  wdth  civilized  society.  At  the  present  time 
some  of  these  reclaimed  mountaineers  are  among  the 
principal  persons  to  whom  the  public  interests  of  the 
colony  are  intrusted.  This  shows  with  what  facility 
they  can  throw  off  their  mountaineer  habits,  and  assume 
those  of  civilized  Hfe. 

At  present  the  most  fruitful  source  of  supply  for  settlers 
in  Oregon,  is  the  United  States  of  America.  Emigrations 
have  arrived  in  the  country,  direct  from  Missouri,  every 
fall,  since  1839.  In  1840  and  1841,  the  parties  were 
comparatively  small,  but  in  1842  the  emigration  num- 
bered one  hundred  and  eleven  persons  in  all.  In  1843,  it 
increased  to  eight  hundred  persons,  who  emigrated  princi- 
pally in  ox-wagons,  and  drove  before  them  fifteen  hundred 
head  of  neat  cattle.  In  1844,  the  number  was  about  the 
same  as  the  preceding  year.  In  1845,  it  increased  to 
nearly  three  thousand  souls,  with  some  two  or  three 
thousand  head  of  cattle. 

These  emigrations,  for  the  most  part,  are  composed 
of  persons  from  the  Western  States,  but  in  them  might  be 
found  persons  from  almost  every  State  in  the  Union, 
even  the  most  Eastern.  Maine  herself  has  supplied 
several 

Many  of  these  adventurers  are  of  that  class  of  persons 


416  OREGO-X    TERKITOIiY. 

who  have  always  hovered  on  the  frontiers  of  civiUzation, 
and  have  been  pushing  on  in  search  of  a  "  better  country, 
not  an  heavenly,"  until  they  have  passed  the  utmost 
borders  of  civilized  society.  Penetrating  entirely  through 
the  deep  recesses  of  savage  Hfe,  they  have  finally  emerged 
from  the  deep  defiles  of  the  Cascade  Mountains,  into  the 
lovely  valleys  of  Oregon,  where  they  have  found,  at  least 
in  embryo,  the  blessings  of  Christianity  and  civilization  ; 
and  here  most  of  them,  some  from  choice,  and  others 
from  the  impossibility  of  getting  away,  come  to  the  con- 
clusion to  erect  their  tabernacles  for  life.  The  enterprise 
of  these  parties  has  far  out-stripped  the  most  sanguine 
expectations  of  the  English  writer  in  a  London  paper, 
who,  a  few  years  ago,  remarked,  that,  "Even  the  perse- 
vering Yankees  would  not  think  of  emigrating  to  Oregon 
in  their  ox-wagons."  If  this  writer  had  possessed  the  eye 
of  omniscience,  he  would  have  seen,  at  the  very  time  he 
was  penning  it,  a  score  of  Yankee  wagons,  drawn  by 
sixty  yoke  of  oxen,  w^inding  their  way  through  the  deep 
passes  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  bound  for  the  Oregon. 

The  population  of  Oregon  in  184(3,  embracing  the 
members  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  would  not  vary 
far  from  twelve  thousand.  These  are  settled  principally 
in  the  Wallamette  valley  on  the  south,  and  the  Cowilitz 
valley  on  the  north  side  of  the  Columbia,  on  the  Clatsop 
plains,  and  at  the  various  posts  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Oregon  territory  —  Political  history  —  Necessity  of  organizing  a  body  politic  —  Pirrt 
meeting  of  the  people  —  Second  meeting  — Exigencies  met— Organization  dies  — 
Exploring  squadron  —  Great  excitement  —  Commander  Wilkes  —  Opposed  to  or- 
ganizing—Subject slumbers  — Snb-agent  — Mass  meeting  — Old  subject    revived 

—  Indians  troublesome  —  Talk  of  war  —  Dr.  McLaughlin  —  Third  meeting  — 
Government  organized  — Fourth  meeting  —  Officers  qualified— Laws  enaeted  — 
Effect  produced  — New  legislative  committee  —  Laws  revised  —  Alterations  — Elec* 
tion  of  a  Governor  and  House  of  Representatives  —  Peaceable  state  of  community 

—  Joel  Turnham  —  Thrilling  incident. 

The  subject  of  this  Chapter  is  not  the  political  relation 
of  Oregon  to  any  other  country ;  whether  from  the 
Spanish  purchase,  the  right  of  first  discovery,  or  conti- 
guity of  situation,  it  properly  belongs  to  the  United 
States  ;  or  whether,  from  long  and  uninterrupted  posses- 
sion by  British  subjects,  as  the  servants  of  a  British 
monopoly,  or  from  the  conveniency  of  a  continued  pos- 
session of  the  majestic  Columbia  as  a  port  of  entry  to 
North  Western  British  America,  it  more  properly  belongs 
to  England  ;  but,  simply,  the  internal  politics  of  Oregon. 

Strange  as  it  may  appear,  the  people  of  Oregon  have 
their  pohtics,  altogether  aside  from  their  relation  with 
other  countries,  and  these  have  sprung  up  among  them, 
more  from  the  necessity  of  the  case,  than  from  any  other 
cause.  Up  to  1840,  the  number  of  people  in  the  colony 
was  so  small,  the  business  transactions  so  limited,  and  the 
difficulties  so  few,  that  the  necessity  of  organizino-  the 
community  into  a  body  politic,  did  not  appear  to  be  very 
great,  though  for  two  years  persons  had  been  chosen  to 
officiate  as  judges  and  magistrates.  But  a  circumstance 
transpired  in  the  winter  of  1841,  different  in  its  character 
and  bearings  upon  community  from  any  thing  that  had 
previously  happened,  namely,  the  death  of  one  of  the 
'18 


418  OREGON    TERRITORY^ 

principal  men  in  the  colony,  by  the  name  of  Ewing 
Young,  who  left  a  large  and  very  unsettled  estate,  with- 
out having  made  the  least  provision  for  its  administration. 
On  the  very  day  of  the  burial  of  this  man,  who  had  not 
a  single  relative  to  follow  him  to  the  tomb,  measures 
were  taken  to  call  a  public  meeting  for  the  purpose  of 
appointing  officers  for  the  government  of  the  community, 
and  particularly  to  provide  for  the  proper  disposition  of 
the  estate  of  Ewing  Young.  A  committee  of  arrange- 
ments, chosen  at  his  funeral,  called  a  mass  meeting  of 
the  inhabitants  of  Oregon,  south  of  the  Columbia  river, 
on  the  17th  and  18th  of  February,  1841,  to  be  held  at 
the  Methodist  Mission  premises  in  the  Wallamette  val- 
ley. Pursuant  to  the  call,  the  people  collected  and  held, 
what  was  properly  called,  "  The  Primary  Meeting  of 
the  people  of  Oregon." 

The  meeting  on  the  18th  was  full — nearly  every  male 
inhabitant  south  of  the  Columbia,  of  full  age,  being 
present. 

Rev.  Jason  Lee  was  excused  from  officiating  as  Chair- 
man, and  Rev.  David  Leslie  was  elected  to  fill  his  place. 
G.  Hines  and  Sidney  Smith  were  chosen  Secretaries. 

The  doings  of  the  meeting  the  previous  day  were 
presented  to  the  assembly,  and  adopted,  in  part,  as 
follows  : — 

Resolved,  That  a  committee  be  chosen  to  form  a  con- 
stitution, and  draft  a  code  of  laws,  and  that  the  following 
persons  compose  that  committee  : 

Rev.  F.  N.  Blanchat,  Rev.  Jason  Lee,  David  Don 
Pierre,  Rev.  Gustavus  Hines,  M.  Chanlevo,  Robert 
More,  J.  L.  Parrish,  Etienne  Lucia,  and  Wm.  Johnson. 

As  it  was  not  deemed  necessary  to  elect  a  Governor 
that  office  was  set  aside. 

Dr.  J.  L.  Babcock  was  elected  to  fill  the  office  of 
Supreme  Judge,  with  Probate  powers. 

George  W.  Le  Breton  was  elected  to  fill  the  office  of 
Clerk  of  the  Courts  and  Public  Recorder. 

Wm.  Johnson  was  elected  High  Sheriff.  Zavier 
Ladaroot,  Pierre  Billique  and  Wm.  MoCarty  were 
chofgen  Constables. 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  419 

It  was  then  resolved,  that,  until  a  code  of  laws  be 
drafted  by  the  Legislative  Committee,  and  adopted  by 
the  people,  Ira  L.  Babcock,  the  Supreme  Judge,  be 
instructed  to  act  according  to  the  laws  of  the  State  of 
New  York. 

It  was  then  resolved  to  adjourn  to  meet  the  first 
Thursday  in  June,  at  the  new  building  near  the  Roman 
Catholic  church. 

Thursday,  June  11,  1841. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  Wallamette  valley  met  accord- 
ing to  adjournment,  and  the  meeting  was  called  to  order 
by  the  Chairman,  Rev.  D.  Leslie. 

On  motion,  the  doings  of  the  former  meeting  were 
read,  on  which  the  report  of  the  committee  for  drafting 
a  constitution  and  code  of  laws  was  called  for,  and 
information  was  communicated  to  the  meeting  by  the 
chairman  of  the  committee,  that,  in  consequence  of  his 
not  having  called  the  committee  together,  no  report  had 
been  prepared. 

F.  N.  Blanchat  was  excused  from  serving  on  that 
committee  at  his  own  request. 

On  motion,  it  was  then  resolved,  that  a  person  be 
chosen  to  fill  the  place  thus  vacated  in  the  committee 
for  drafting  a  constitution  and  code  of  laws,  and  Wm. 
J.  Baily  was  chosen  that  committee  man. 

On  motion,  it  was  resolved,  that  this  committee  be 
instructed  to  meet  for  the  transaction  of  their  business 
on  the  first  Monday  of  August  next. 

On  motion,  resolved,  that  the  committee  be  instructed 
to  report  to  an  adjourned  meeting,  to  be  held  the  first 
Thursday  in  October  next. 

On  motion,  resolved,  that  the  committee  be  advised  to 
confer  with  the  commander  of  the  American  Exploring 
Squadron  now  in  the  Columbia  river,  concerning  the 
propriety  of  forming  a  provisional  government  in  Oregon. 

Resolved,  That  the  motion  to  adopt  the  report  of  the 
nominating  committee  presented  at  a  previous  meeting, 
be  rescinded. 

Resolved,  That  the  committee  to  draft  a  constitution 
be  instructed  to  take  into  consideration  the  number  and 


420  OREGON    TERRITORY, 

kind  of  offices  it  will  be  necessary  to  create,  in  accord- 
ance with  their  constitution  and  code  of  laws,  and  to 
report  the  same  at  the  next  meeting. 

It  was  also  resolved,  that  the  report  of  the  nominating 
committee  be  referred  to  the  legislative  committee. 

It  was    then   moved   and  carried,   that   this   meeting 
adjourn   to  meet   at  the   Methodist   Mission    at   eleven 
o'clock,  A.  M.,  of  the  first  Thursday  in  October  next. 
(Signed,)  DAVID  LESLIE,   Chairman. 

GUSTAVUS   HiNES,   )   ^,,^,^^^^,,, 

Sidney  I^mith,       ) 

I  have  previously  stated  that  the  origin  of  these 
attempts  to  form  a  kind  of  provisional  government,  was 
the  removal  by  death  of  the  late  Ewing  Young,  leaving, 
as  he  did,  a  large  and  unsettled  estate,  with  no  one  to 
administer  it,  and  no  laws  to  control  its  administration. 
The  exigencies  of  this  case  having  been  met  by  the 
appointment  of  a  Judge  with  probate  powers,  who  en- 
tered immediately  upon  his  duties,  and  disposed  of  the 
estate  of  Ewing  Young,  to  the  entire  satisfaction  of  the 
community  ;  and  the  fact  that  some  of  the  most  influ- 
ential citizens  of  the  country,  and  especially  some  of  the 
members  of  the  legislative  committee,  were  adverse  to 
the  idea  of  establishing  a  permanent  organization  so 
long  as  the  peace  and  harmony  of  the  community  could 
possibly  be  preserved  without  it,  the  subject  was  permit- 
ted to  die  away,  and  the  committee  for  drafting  a  con- 
stitution and  code  of  laws  did  not  meet  according  to 
their  instructions,  nor  did  the  meeting  at  which  they 
were  expected  to  report,  ever  take  place. 

What  contributed  more,  however,  to  defeat  this  first 
effort  to  estabhsh  a  regular  government  in  Oregon  than 
any  thing  else,  was  the  arrival,  during  the  summer  in 
which  the  organization  was  pending,  of  the  United 
States  Exploring  Squadron,  under  the  command  of 
Captain  Wilkes.  The  results  of  the  observations  of  the 
officers  and  scientific  corps  connected  with  the  squadron, 
in  the  Oregon  Territory,  as  well  as  a  description  of  the 
diflferent  casualties  which  happened  to  them  in  the  loss 
of  the  Peacock  on  the  bar  of  the  Columbia,  and  in  their 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  42J 

different  conflicts  with  the  natives  of  the  interior,  are 
already  before  the  public  in  the  voluminous  works  of 
Captain  Wilkes,  and  therefore  it  is  not  necessary  to 
introduce  them  here.  The  arrival  on  the  coast  of  Ore- 
gon ot  so  extensive  an  armament,  consisting  of  four  or 
tive  vessels  of  war,  for  the  express  purpose  of  explorini^ 
not  only  the  coast  and  rivers,  but  also  the  country  itself 
produced  a  very  great  excitement  in  the  community 
and  but  httle  was  heard  of  but  the  Exploring  Squadron 
during  Its  somewhat  protracted  stay  in  the  Columbia 
river.  In  addition  to  this,  the  officers  of  the  squadron 
were  consulted  on  the  subject  of  organizing  the  country 
into  a  civil  compact,  and  were  found  to  be  decidedly 
opposed  to  the  scheme,  and  recommended  that  the  sub- 
ject be  allowed  to  rest.  They  encouraged  the  people  in 
the  behef  that  the  United  States  Government  would 
probably  soon  extend  jurisdiction  over  the  country. 

This  put  a  quietus  on  the  subject  for  the  time  bein? 
and  as  the  number  of  settlers  in  the  country  was  yet 
small,  and  the  difficulties  to  be  settled  of  such  a  nature 
as  easily  to  be  adjusted  by  arbitration,  nothing  took 
place  to  call  up  the  subject  of  organizing  until  several 
months  after  the  departure  of  the  squadron  from  the 
Columbia  river. 

The  subject  of  organizing  a  government  was  again 
revived  in  September,  1842  ;  but  Dr.  White,  who  was 
now  in  the  country  as  Sub-agent  of  Indian  Affairs,  con- 
tended that  his  office  was  equivalent  to  that  of  Governor 
ot  the  Colony.  Some  of  the  citizens  contended  that  the 
Doctors  business  was  to  regulate  the  intercourse  be- 
tween the  Indians  and  the  whites,  and  not  to  control  the 
whites  in  their  intercourse  among  themselves.  Without 
arriving  at  any  thing  definite  on  this  point,  after  hearing 
the  documents  brought  to  the  country  from  Washington 
by  Dr  White,  the  people  scattered  away  to  their  homes 
upon  the  plains,  pleased  with  what  they  considered  to  be 
a  prehmmary  step  of  the  United  States  towards  extending 
jurisdiction  over  the  Territory  of  Oregon. 

About  this  time  the  Indians  became  quite  troublesome 
m  various  parts  of  the  country.     At  Waialetpee,  on  the 


422  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

Walla-Walla  river,  where  a  mission  station  had  been 
established  by  Dr.  Marcus  Whitman,  they  took  advantage 
of  the  Doctor's  absence  and  broke  into  the  house,  in  the 
dead  of  the  night,  and  even  into  the  bed-chamber  of  Mrs. 
Whitman,  who,  with  much  difficulty,  escaped  out  of  their 
hands.  At  Laperai,  on  Clear  Water  river,  where  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Spaulding  was  conducting  a  mission  station, 
they  committed  some  outrages  ;  also,  at  the  Falls  of  the 
Wallamette  river.  A  number  of  individuals  of  Dr. 
White's  party,  w4io  had  separated  themselves  from  the 
main  company,  were  robbed  of  their  effects  while  passing 
down  the  Columbia  river. 

The  Nez-Perces  and  Kayuses,  two  of  the  most  power- 
ful tribes  in  the  country,  had  talked  much  of  making 
war  upon  the  American  settlement  on  the  Wallamette 
river.  These  things,  w^ith  many  others  of  more  or  less 
importance,  produced  a  high  degree  of  excitement,  and 
served  to  arouse  the  people  again  to  the  subject  of  enter- 
ing into  some  measures  by  which  their  mutual  protection 
might  be  secured.  The  Canadian  Fjench,  who  had  set- 
tled in  the  country,  and  who,  up  to  the  beginning  of 
1843,  were  more  numerous  than  the  Americans,  were, 
at  first,  agreed  with  them  as  to  the  necessity  of  organ- 
izing ;  but,  at  this  time,  as  it  was  supposed  through  the 
influence  of  Dr.  John  McLaughlin,  who,  himself  was 
opposed  to  such  a  measure,  they  broke  off,  almost  to  a 
man,  on  the  pretence,  that,  as  they  were  the  subjects  of 
Queen  Victoria,  and  did  not  wish  to  forswear  their 
country,  they  could  not,  consistently,  enter  into  any 
measures  that  might  prove  prejudicial  to  her  Majesty's 
government.  This  served  to  harmonize  the  views  of  the 
Americans,  so  far  as  to  bring  them  unanimously  to  the 
determination  immediately  to  organize  ;  but  they  still 
differed  as  to  the  nature  of  the  government  that  should 
be  established.  Some  were  favorable  to  an  independent 
form,  some  to  a  form  similar  to  a  territorial  government, 
while  others  were  in  favor  of  a  few  simple  rules  and 
regulations,  which  might  operate  satisfactorily  for  the 
time  being,  until  the  United  States  government  should  do 
something  more  effectual  in  their  behalf.     With  these 


X 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  423 

conflicting  views  a  meeting  of  about  fifty  of  the  settlers, 
chiefly  Americans,  took  place  at  the  Wallamette  Falls 
in  the  month  of  March,  1843,  and  the  subject  of  organ- 
izing the  community  into  a  body  politic,  became  the 
order  of  the  evening.  After  a  spirited  and  interesting 
discussion,  the  meeting  resulted  in  the  appointment  of  a 
committee  to  notify  a  public  meeting  to  be  held  at 
Champoeg,  the  2d  day  of  May,  1843.  In  the  mean 
time,  there  being  no  law  in  Oregon,  every  man  was  left 
to  do  what  was  pleasing  in  his  own  eyes.  At  length  the 
2d  day  of  May  arrived,  and  the  people  assembled  ac- 
cording to  notice,  the  French  as  well  as  the  Amei'icans, 
the  former,  doubtless,  for  the  purpose  of  thwarting  the 
designs  of  the  latter,  and  these  with  the  determination  of 
carrying  their  purposes  into  execution.  The  following  is 
an  account  of  the  meeting  as  taken  from  the  public  records. 

A  public  meeting  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  Wallamette 
settlement  was  held  at  Champoeg,  on  the  2d  day  of 
May,  1843,  in  accordance  with  the  call  of  a  committee, 
chosen  at  a  previous  meeting,  for  the  purpose  of  taking 
steps  to  organize  themselves  into  a  civic  community,  and 
provide  themselves  with  the  protection  secured  by  the 
enforcement  of  law  and  order. 

Dr.  J.  L.  Babcock  was  chosen  Chairman,  and  W.  H. 
Gray,  G.  W.  Le  Breton  and  W.  H.  Wilson  were  chosen 
Secretaries. 

The  committee  appointed  for  the  purpose  of  bringing 
forward  the  business  of  the  meeting,  presented  their 
report,  and  a  motion  was  made  to  accept  it,  which  was 
lost.  Considerable  confusion  existed  in  consequence  ; 
but  it  was  moved  by  G.  W.  Le  Breton,  and  seconded  by 
W.  H.  Gray,  that  the  meeting  divide  themselves  prepara- 
tory to  being  counted  ;  those  in  favor  of  the  objects  of  the 
meeting  taking  the  right,  and  those  of  the  contrary  mind, 
the  left.  The  motion  prevailed,  and  a  large  majority 
being  found  in  favor  of  organizing,  the  greater  part  of  the 
dissenting  withdrew. 

The  report  of  the  committee  was  again  presented  and 
accepted.  It  was  then  taken  up,  item  by  item,  and  dis- 
posed of  as  follows  :  — 


424  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

First  item,  that  a  Judge,  with  Probate  powers,  be 
chosen  to  officiate  in  this  community.     Adopted. 

It  was  also  resolved,  that  the  second,  third,  fourth  and 
fifth  items,  providing  for  the  election  of  a  Clerk,  Sheriff, 
three  Magistrates,  and  three  Constables,  be  adopted. 

The  sixth  item,  recommending  the  election  of  a  com- 
mittee of  nine  persons  for  the  purpose  of  drafting  a 
code  of  laws  for  the  government  of  the  community,  and 
to  report  to  a  pubHc  meeting  to  be  hereafter  called  by 
said  committee,  and  to  be  held  at  Champoeg,  on  the  5th 
day  of  July,  1843,  was  also  adopted. 

The  seventh  and  eighth  were  adopted,,  which  recom- 
mended the  election  of  a  Treasurer,  a  Major  and  three 
Captains. 

It  was  then  resolved,  that  the  meeting  proceed  to 
choose  persons  to  fill  the  various  offices  by  ballot. 

A.  E.  Wilson  was  chosen  to  act  as  Judge,  with  Probate 
powers. 

G.  W.  Le  Breton  was  chosen  Clerk  of  the  Court,  and 
Recorder. 

Joseph  L.  Meek  was  chosen  to  fill  the  office  of 
Sheriff. 

W.  H.  Wilson  was  chosen  Treasurer. 

Messrs.  Hill,  Shortess,  Newel,  Beers,  Hubbard,  Gray, 
O'Neal,  More  and  Dougherty  were  chosen  to  act  as 
the  Legislative  Committee. 

Messrs.  Burns,  Judson  and  A.  T.  Smith  were  chosen 
to  act  as  Magistrates. 

Messrs.  Ebberts,  Bridges  and  Lewis  were  chosen  to 
act  as  Constables. 

John  Howard  was  chosen  Major. 

Messrs.  McCarty,  McKay  and  S.  Smith  w^ere  consti- 
tuted Captains. 

It  was  then  resolved,  that  the  Legislative  Committee 
be  required  to  make  their  report  on  the  5th  day  of  July, 
1843,  at  Champoeg. 

On  motion,  it  was  resolved,  that  the  services  of  the 
Committee  be  paid  for  at  the  rate  of  one  dollar  and 
twenty-five  cents  per  day,  and  that  the  money  be  raised 
by  subscription. 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  425 

A  motion  was  made  and  carried,  that  the  Major  and 
Captains  be  instructed  to  enlist  men,  to  form  companies 
of  mounted  riflemen. 

A  fourth  Magistrate  and  a  fourth  Constable  were  also 
elected,  and  it  was  then  resolved,  that  the  Legislative 
Committee  should  not  be  allowed  to  sit  over  six  days. 

In  addition  to  the  above  business,  this  important  pri- 
mary meeting  recognized  the  officers  who  had  been 
elected  immediately  after  the  death  of  Ewing  Young, 
and  passed  a  vote  that  they  should  have  power  to  exer- 
cise the  functions  of  their  office  until  the  day  of  the 
pubUc  meeting  should  arrive,  when  the  newly  elected 
officers  should  be  duly  initiated. 

During  the  interim  between  the  above  described 
meeting  and  the  5th  of  July,  little  transpired  worthy  of 
note,  with  the  exception  of  the  celebration  of  the  Fourth. 
This  day,  glorious  in  the  recollection  of  every  American, 
wherever  he  may  be  found,  as  the  birth-day  of  liberty, 
was  appropriately  celebrated  at  Champoeg,  where  nearly 
all  the  Americans  in  the  country,  and  many  of  the  French 
and  English  assembled  to  listen  to  an  oration,  and  a 
temperance  address,  and  to  enjoy  the  socialities  of  a 
public  dinner.  The  festivities  of  the  day  were  enjoyed 
m  the  true  spirit  of  liberty,  there  being  no  other  spirit 
to  exert  an  influence  on  the  occasion.  As  there  were 
no  houses  to  entertain  the  people  during  the  night,  they 
nearly  all  camped  upon  the  ground,  and  the  morning  of 
the  5th  found  them  prepared  to  enter  upon  the  important 
business  that  was  to  come  before  them,  and  which  re- 
sulted in  giving  to  the  Oregonians  a  tangible  form  of 
government. 

The  minutes  of  the  meeting  are  as  follows  : — 

Champoeg,  July  5th,  1843. 

The  inhabitants  of  Oregon  met  at  Champoeg,  pursuant 
to  adjournment,  to  hear  the  report  of  the  Legislative 
Committee,  and  to  perform  such  other  business  as  might 
come  before  them. 

Rev.  Gustavus  Hines  was  elected  Chairman,  and  W. 
H.  Gray,  W.  H.  Wilson  and  H.  Campbell  were  chosen 
Secretaries. 


426  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

Robert  More,  Esq.,  Chairman  of  the  Legislative  Com- 
mittee, then  presented  his  report,  which  was  read  by 
the  Clerk  of  the  Court,  and  adopted,  as  follows  : — 

Section  1st. — We,  the  people  of  Oregon  Territory,  for 
purposes  of  mutual  protection,  and  to  secure  peace  and 

f)rosperity  among  ourselves,  agree  to  adopt  the  following 
aws  and  regulations  until  such  time  as  the  United  States 
of  America  extend  their  jurisdiction  over  us. 

Be  it  therefore  enacted  by  the  citizens  of  Oregon 
Territory,  that  the  said  Territory,  for  the  purposes  of 
temporary  government,  be  divided  into  not  less  than 
three,  nor  more  than  five  Districts,  subject  to  be  extended 
to  a  greater  number  when  the  increase  of  population 
shall  require. 

For  the  purpose  of  fixing  the  principles  of  civil  and 
religious  Hberty  as  the  feasis  of  all  law^s  and  constitutions 
of  government  that  may  hereafter  be  adopted.  Be  it 
enacted,  that  the  following  articles  be  considered  ar- 
ticles of  compact  among  the  free  citizens  of  this  Ter- 
ritory : 

Jlrticle  \st.  No  person  demeaning  himself  in  an  orderly 
and  peaceful  manner,  shall  ever  be  molested  on  account 
of  his  mode  of  worship,  or  religious  sentiments. 

Article  2d  The  inhabitants  of  said  Territory  shall 
always  be  entitled  to  the  benefit  of  the  writ  of  habeas 
corpus,  and  trial  by  jury,  of  a  proportionate  representa- 
tion of  the  people  in  the  legislature  and  judicial  proceed- 
ings, according  to  the  course  of  common  law  ;  all  per- 
sons shall  be  bailable,  unless  for  capital  offences,  where 
the  proof  shall  be  evident,  or  the  presumption  great. 
All  fines  shall  be  moderate,  and  no  cruel  or  unusual  pun- 
ishments inflicted.  No  man  shall  be  deprived  of  his  liberty 
but  by  the  judgment  of  his  peers,  or  the  laws  of  the  land  ; 
and  should  the  public  exigencies  make  it  necessary  for 
the  common  preservation  to  take  any  person's  property, 
or  to  demand  his  particular  services,  full  compensation 
shall  be  made  for  the  same.  And,  in  the  just  preservation 
of  rights  and  property,  it  is  understood  and  declared,  that 
no  law  ought  to  be  made  or  have  force  in  said  Territory 
that  shall,  in  any  manner  whatever,  interfere  with,  or 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  427 

effect,  private  contracts  or  engagements,  bona  fide  and 
without  fraud,  privately  framed. 

Article  Sd.  Religion,  morality,  and  knowledge,  being 
necessary  to  good  government  and  the  happiness  of  man- 
kind, schools  and  the  means  of  education  shall  forever 
be  encouraged. 

The  utmost  good  faith  shall  always  be  preserved  to- 
wards the  Indians  ;  their  land  and  property  shall  never 
be  taken  from  them  without  their  consent ;  and  in  their 
property,  rights  and  liberty,  they  shall  never  be  invaded 
or  disturbed,  unless  in  just  and  lawful  wars  authorized 
by  the  representatives  of  the  people.  But  laws  founded 
in  justice  and  humanity,  shall  from  time  to  time  be  made 
for  preventing  injustice  being  done  to  them,  and  for  pre- 
serving peace  and  friendship  with  them. 

Article  4th.  There  shall  be  neither  slavery  nor  involun- 
tary servitude  in  said  Territory,  otherwise  than  for  the 
punishment  of  crime,  whereof  the  party  shall  have  been 
duly  convicted. 

Section  2d.  —  Organic  Law. 

Article  1st.  Be  it  enacted  by  the  authorities  aforesaid, 
that  the  officers  elected  upon  the  2d  day  of  May,  1843, 
shall  continue  in  office  until  the  second  Tuesday  in  May, 
1844,  and  until  others  are  elected  and  qualified. 

Article  2d.  Be  it  further  enacted,  that  an  election  of 
civil  and  military  officers  shall  be  held  annually  upon  the 
second  Tuesday  in  May,  in  the  several  districts,  in  such 
places  as  shall  be  designated  by  law. 

Article  Sd.  Each  officer  heretofore  elected,  or  that  shall 
hereafter  be  elected,  shall,  before  entering  upon  the  duties 
of  his  office,  take  an  oath,  or  affirmation,  to  support  the 
laws  of  the  Territory,  and  faithfully  to  discharge  the 
duties  of  his  office. 

Article  4th.  Every  free  male  descendant  of  a  white 
man,  inhabitant  of  this  Territory,  of  the  age  of  twenty- 
one  years  and  upwards,  who  shall  have  been  an  inhabi- 
tant of  this  Territory  at  the  time  of  its  organization,  shall 
be  entitled  to  vote  at  the  election  of  officers,  civil  and 
military,  and  be  eligible  to  any  office  in  the  Territory, 


428  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

Provided,  that  all  persons  of  the  description  entitled  to 
vote  by  the  provisions  of  this  section,  who  shall  emigrate 
to  this  Territory  after  organization,  shall  be  entitled  to 
the  rights  of  citizens,  after  having  resided  six  naonths  in 
the  Territory. 

Article  bth.  The  executive  power  shall  be  vested  in  a 
committee  of  three  persons  elected  by  the  qualified  voters 
at  the  annual  election,  who  shall  have  power  to  grani 
pardons  and  reprieves  for  offences  against  the  laws  of 
the  Territory  ;  to  call  out  the  military  force  of  the  Ter- 
ritory, to  repel  invasions  or  suppress  insurrection  ;  to  take 
care  that  the  laws  be  faithfully  executed,  and  to  recom- 
mend such  laws,  as  they  may  consider  necessary,  to  the 
representatives  of  the  people  for  their  action.  Two  mem- 
bers of  the  committee  shall  constitute  a  quorum  for  the 
transaction  of  business. 

Article  6th.  The  legislative  power  shall  be  vested  in  a 
committee  of  nine  persons,  to  be  chosen  by  the  qualified 
voters  at  the  annual  elections,  giving  to  each  district  a 
representation  in  the  ratio  of  its  population,  excluding 
Indians,  and  the  said  members  of  the  committee  shall 
reside  in  the  district  for  which  they  shall  be  chosen. 

Article  7th.  The  judicial  power  shall  be  vested  in  a 
Supreme  Court,  consisting  of  the  Supreme  Judge  and  two 
Justices  of  the  Peace,  a  Probate  Court,  and  in  Justices 
of  the  Peace.  The  jurisdiction  of  the  Supreme  Court 
shall  be  both  appellate  and  original.  That  of  the  Probate 
Court  and  Justices  of  the  Peace,  as  Hmited  by  law  ;  pro- 
vided, that  individual  Justices  of  the  Peace  shall  not  have 
jurisdiction  of  any  matter  of  controversy  when  the  title 
or  boundaries  of  land  may  be  in  dispute,  or  when  the  sum 
claimed  shall  exceed  fifty  dollars. 

Article  8th.  There  shall  be  a  Recorder  elected  by  the 
qualified  electors  at  the  annual  election,  who  shall  keep 
a  faithful  record  of  the  proceedings  in  the  Legislative 
Committee,  Supreme  and  Probate  Courts  ;  also,  record 
all  boundaries  of  land  presented  for  that  purpose,  and  all 
marks  and  brands  used  for  marking  live  stock  ;  procure 
and  keep  the  standard  weights  and  measures  required 
by  law  ;  seal  weights  and  measures,  and  keep  a  record  of 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  429 

the  same  ;  and  also  record  wills,  deeds  and  other  instru- 
ments of  writing,  required  by  law  to  be  recorded.  The 
Recorder  shall  receive  the  following  fees,  viz  :  for  re- 
cording wills,  deeds,  and  other  instruments  of  writing, 
twelve  cents  for  every  hundred  words,  and  the  same 
price  for  copies  of  the  same  ;  for  every  weight  and 
measure  sealed,  twenty-five  cents  ;  for  services  as  Clerk 
of  the  Legislature,  and  for  all  other  services  required  of 
him  by  this  act,  the  same  fees  as  are  allowed  for  similar 
services  by  the  laws  of  Iowa. 

Article  9th.  There  shall  be  a  Treasurer  elected  by  the 
qualified  electors  of  the  Territory,  who  shall,  before  en- 
tering upon  the  duties  of  his  office,  give  bonds  to  the 
Executive  Committee  in  the  sum  of  fifteen  hundred  dol- 
lars, with  two  or  more  sufficient  securities,  to  be  approved 
by  the  Executive  Committee  of  the  Territory,  conditioned 
for  the  faithful  discharge  of  the  duties  of  his  office.  The 
Treasurer  shall  receive  all  moneys  belonging  to  the  Ter- 
ritory that  may  be  raised  by  contribution  or  otherwise, 
and  shall  procure  suitable  books  in  which  he  shall  enter 
an  account  of  his  receipts  and  disbursements. 

Article  lOth.  The  Treasurer  shall  in  no  case  pay 
money  out  of  the  Treasury,  but  according  to  law  ;  and 
shall  annually  report  to  the  Legislative  Committee  a 
true  account  of  his  receipts  and  disbursements,  with 
necessary  vouchers  for  the  same,  and  shall  deUver  to  his 
successor  in  office  all  books,  moneys,  accounts,  or  other 
property  belonging  to  the  Territory,  as  soon  as  his  suc- 
cessor shall  become  qualified. 

Article  11th.  The  Treasurer  shall  receive  for  his  ser- 
vices the  sum  of  five  per  cent,  upon  all  moneys  received 
and  paid  out,  according  to  law,  and  three  per  cent,  upon 
all  money  in  the  Treasury  when  he  goes  out  of  office, 
and  two  per  cent,  upon  the  disbursements  of  money  in 
the  Treasury  when  he  comes  into  office. 

Article  12th.  The  laws  of  Iowa  shall  be  the  laws  of 
this  country,  in  civil,  military  and  criminal  cases,  when 
not  otherwise  provided  for;  and  where  no  statute  of  Iowa 
Territory  applies,  the  principles  of  common  law  and 
equity  shall  govern. 


430  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

Article  ISth.  The  law  of  Iowa,  regulating  weights 
and  measures,  shall  be  the  law  of  this  Territory  ;  Pro- 
vided, that  the  Supreme  Court  shall  perform  the  duties 
required  of  the  County  Commissioners,  and  the  Recorder 
shall  perfom  the  duties  of  the  Clerk  of  the  County  Com- 
missioners, as  provided  in  said  laws  of  Iowa.  And, 
provided,  that  sixty  pounds  avoirdupois  weight,  shall  be 
the  standard  weight  of  a  bushel  of  wheat,  whether  the 
same  be  more  or  less  than  two  thousand  one  hundred 
and  fifty  and  two-fifths  cubic  inches. 

Article  I4th.  The  laws  of  Iowa  respecting  wills  and 
administrations,  shall  be  the  laws  of  this  Territory,  in  all 
cases  not  otherwise  provided  for. 

Article  \bth.  The  laws  of  Iowa  respecting  vagrants, 
are  hereby  adopted  as  far  as  adapted  to  the  circumstan- 
ces of  the  citizens  of  Oregon. 

Article  IGth.  The  Supreme  Court  shall  hold  two  ses- 
sions annually,  upon  the  third  Tuesday  in  April  and 
September,  the  first  session  to  be  held  at  Champoeg,  on 
the  third  Tuesday  in  September,  1843,  and  the  second 
session  at  Tuality  Plains,  on  the  third  Tuesday  in  April. 
At  the  sessions  of  the  Supreme  Court,  the  Supreme 
Judge  shall  preside,  assisted  by  the  Justices  ;  Provided, 
that  no  Justice  of  the  Peace  shall  assist  in  trying  any 
case  that  has  been  brought  before  the  Court  by  appeal 
from  his  judgment.  The  Supreme  Court  shall  have 
original  jurisdiction  in  cases  of  treason,  felony,  and 
breach  of  the  peace,  and  in  civil  cases  when  the  sum 
claimed  exceeds  fifty  dollars. 

Article  17 th.  All  male  persons  of  the  age  of  sixteen 
years  and  upwards,  and  all  females  of  the  age  of  four- 
teen and  upwards,  shall  have  the  I'ight  of  engaging  in 
marriage  ;  Provided,  that,  when  either  of  the  parties 
shall  be  under  twenty-one  years  of  age,  the  consent  of 
the  parents  or  guardians  of  such  minors  shall  be  neces- 
sary to  the  validity  of  such  matrimonial  engagement. 
Every  ordained  minister  of  the  gospel  of  any  religious 
denomination,  the  Supreme  Judge,  and  all  the  Justices 
of  the  Peace,  are  hereby  authorized  to  solemnize  mar- 
riage according  to  law,  to  have  the  same  recorded,  and 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  431 

pay  the  Recorder's  fees.  All  marriages  shall  be  re- 
corded by  the  Territorial  Recorder  within  one  month 
from  the  time  of  such  marriage  taking  place,  and  being 
made  known  to  him  officially.  The  legal  fee  for  mar- 
riage shall  be  one  dollar,  and  for  recording  fifty  cents. 

Jlrticle  I8th.  All  offices  subsequently  made  shall  be 
filled  by  election  and  ballot  in  the  several  districts,  in 
the  most  central  and  convenient  place  in  such  district, 
upon  the  day  appointed  by  law,  and  under  such  regula- 
tions as  the  laws  of  Iowa  provide. 

Article  \9th.  Resolved,  that  a  Committee  of  three  be 
appointed  to  draw  up  a  digest  of  the  doings  of  the  people 
of  this  Territory,  with  regard  to  an  organization,  and 
transmit  it  to  the  United  States  Government  for  their 
information. 

In  every  other  particular  connected  with  the  Judiciary 
and  Military  regulations  of  the  country,  the  laws  of 
Iowa  were  considered  applicable,  and  were  consequently 
formally  adopted  by  the  people  assembled  en  masse  at 
Champoeg,  on  the  5th  of  July,  1843. 

As  the  country  remained  quiet  as  it  regarded  the 
Indians,  and  no  particular  danger  menaced  her  from 
without,  the  military  laws  slumbered  a  dead  letter,  and 
the  military  officers  remained  without  a  miUtia.  The 
organization,  however,  continued,  and  all  the  rest  of  the 
laws  were  uniformly  put  in  force.  The  expenses  of  the 
government  for  two  years  after  the  organization,  were 
met  by  voluntary  contributions  ;  some  of  the  officers, 
however,  serving  without  fee  or  reward. 

In  the  spring  of  1844,  a  new  Legislative  Committee 
was  elected,  which  embraced  two  or  three  lawyers,  who 
arrived  in  the  country  the  previous  fall.  This  Committee 
passed  a  vote,  recommending  several  important  altera- 
tions in  the  Organic  Laws,  which  were  found  to  be,  in 
their  practical  operations,  somewhat  defective.  As  the 
people  had  not  yet  surrendered  their  law-making  power 
into  the  hands  of  the  Legislative  Committee,  it  was 
necessary  to  call  an  election,  to  ascertain  the  will  of  the 
people  in  reference  to  the  proposed  alterations  and 
amendments.     This  election  took  place,  and  resulted  in 


432  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

the  adoption  of  the  Organic  Laws,  with  the  proposes 
alterations  and  admendments,  by  an  overwhelming  ma- 
jority. The  principal  alterations  thus  effected  relate  to 
the  three  powers  of  Government,  the  Legislative,  Exec- 
utive, and  Judicial.  Instead  of  a  Committee  of  nine, 
whose  acts  were  to  be  confirmed  or  rejected  by  a  subse- 
quent vote  of  the  people,  the  Legislative  power  was 
vested  in  a  House  of  Representatives,  to  consist  of  not 
less  than  thirteen,  nor  more  than  sixty-one  members, 
possessing  all  the  powers  usual  to  such  bodies. 

Instead  of  a  Committee  of  three,  the  Executive  power 
was  vested  in  one  person,  to  be  elected  by  the  quahfied 
voters  at  the  annual  election,  and  possessing  the  powers 
common  to  the  Governors  of  the  different  States. 

The  Judicial  power  was  vested  in  a  Supreme  Court, 
and  such  Inferior  Courts  of  law,  equity  and  arbitration, 
as  should,  by  law,  from  time  to  time,  be  estabhshed. 
It  was  also  provided,  that  the  Supreme  Judge  should 
be  elected  by  the  House  of  Representatives,  and  not  by 
the  people,  according  to  the  provisions  of  the  former 
Code. 

All  the  officers,  civil  and  mihtary,  were  required  to 
take  an  oath  as  follows,  to  wit  : — 

I  do  solemnly  swear,  that  I  will  support  the  Organic 
Laws  of  the  Provisional  Government  of  Oregon,  so  far 
as  said  Organic  Laws  are  consistent  with  my  duties  as 
a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  or  a  subject  of  Great 
Britain,  and  faithfully  demean  myself  in  office  ;  so  help 
me  God. 

Important  changes  were  also  effected  in  the  Organic 
Laws,  respecting  land  claims.  By  the  previous  arrange- 
ment, the  different  missions  in  the  country  were  con- 
firmed in  their  occupancy  of  the  tracts  of  land  of  which 
they  had  taken  possession,  for  the  benefit  of  the  Indian 
tribes,  but  in  the  amended  Code,  no  such  mission  claims 
were  allowed. 

As  the  Land  Law  is  quite  important,  particularly  to 
persons  interested  to  know  how  such  matters  are  regu- 
lated in  Oregon,  perhaps  it  will  not  be  improper  to  copy 
it  verbatim : — 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  433 

"Any  person  now  holding,  or  hereafter  wishing  to 
establish  a  claim  to  land  in  this  Territory,  shall  designate 
the  extent  of  his  claim  by  natural  boundaries,  or  by 
marks  at  the  corners  and  upon  the  lines  of  such  claim, 
and  have  the  extent  and  boundaries  of  said  claim  re- 
corded in  the  office  of  the  Territorial  Recorder,  in  a 
book  to  be  kept  by  him  for  that  purpose,  within  twenty 
days  from  the  time  of  making  such  claim  ;  Provided, 
that  those  who  shall  be  already  in  possession  of  land, 
shall  be  allowed  twelve  months,  from  the  passage  of  this 
act,  to  file  a  description  of  his  claim  in  the  Recorder's 
office  ;  and  provided,  further,  that  the  said  claimant 
shall  state  in  his  record,  the  size,  shape  and  locality  of 
such  claim,  and  give  the  names  of  the  adjoining  claim- 
ants ;  and  the  Recorder  may  require  the  applicant  for 
such  record  to  be  made,  to  answer  on  his  oath  touching 
the  facts. 

*'  All  claimants  shall,  within  six  months  from  the  time 
of  recording  their  claim,  make  permanent  improvements 
upon  the  same,  by  building  or  inclosing,  and  also  become 
an  occupant  upon  said  claim,  within  one  year  from  the 
date  of  such  record,  or,  in  case  not  occupied,  the  person 
holding  said  claim  shall  pay  into  the  Treasury  the  sum 
of  five  dollars  annually  ;  and,  in  case  of  failure  to  occu- 
py, or  failui'e  of  payment  of  the  sum  above  stated,  the 
claim  shall  be  considered  as  abandoned  ;  Provided,  that 
no  non-resident  of  this  Territory  shall  have  the  benefit 
of  the  Law  ;  and  provided,  further,  that  any  resident  of 
this  Territory,  absent  on  his  private  business  for  two 
years,  may  hold  his  claim  by  paying  five  dollars,  an- 
nually, to  the  Treasury. 

"  No  individual  shall  be  allowed  to  a  claim  of  more 
than  one  square  mile,  or  six  hundred  and  forty  acres,  in 
a  square  or  oblong  form,  according  to  the  natural  situa- 
tion of  the  premises  ;  nor  shall  any  individual  be  allowed 
to  hold  more  than  one  claim  at  the  same  time.  Any 
person,  complying  with  the  provisions  of  these  ordi- 
nances, shall  be  entitled  to  the  same  recourse  against 
trespass,  as  in  other  cases  by  law  provided. 

"Partnerships  of  two  or  more  persons,  shall  be  allowed 


434  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

to  take  up  a  tract  of  land,  not  exceeding  six  hundred  and 
forty  acres  to  each  person  in  said  partnership,  subject  to 
all  the  provisions  of  this  law,  and  whenever  such  partner- 
ship is  dissolved,  the  members  shall  record  the  particular 
parts  of  said  tract  which  may  be  allotted  to  them  re- 
spectively ;  provided,  that  no  member  of  said  partnership 
shall  hold  a  separate  claim  at  the  time  of  the  existence 
of  said  partnership." 

It  was  also  determined  at  the  special  election,  by  a 
vote  of  the  people,  that  the  amended  Organic  Law 
should  become  the  law  of  the  land,  after  the  first  Tues- 
day in  June,  1845,  when  the  election  of  a  Governor  and 
Members  of  the  House  of  Representatives  was  to  take 
place. 

In  the  mean  time  the  people  of  Oregon,  though  differ- 
ing as  much  in  their  education,  their  degrees  of  civiliza- 
tion and  refinement,  and  their  constitutional  habits,  as 
they  do  in  the  color  of  their  skin,  continued  in  their  inter- 
course with  one  another,  to  form  a  remarkably  peaceable 
and  quiet  community.  But,  it  will  not  be  understood  by 
this,  that  the  Oregonians  exhibited  no  irregularities,  no 
wickedness  in  their  conduct ;  but  simply  that  in  civil 
regulations,  and  daily  intercourse  in  matters  of  business, 
and  in  efforts  to  promote  the  welfare  of  the  country,  the 
community  was  one  of  order,  gentleness  and  unanimity. 
As  a  proof  of  this,  when  steps  have  been  taken  to  adopt 
laws  from  time  to  time,  as  the  exigencies  of  the  case 
have  seemed  to  require,  though  numbers  have  usually 
been  opposed  to  the  measures,  yet,  after  having  been 
adopted  by  the  majority,  they  have  been  universally 
acknowledged.  Those  most  opposed  at  first,  like  true- 
hearted  republicans,  would  fall  in  with  the  majority,  and 
sustain  the  laws  with  their  entire  influence. 

Another  thing  that  speaks  well  for  the  civil  order  that 
prevailed  in  the  community  before  the  present  organiza- 
tion was  established,  is  the  fact,  that  crimes  were  very 
few.  True,  there  were  some  petty  quarrels  between 
white  men,  but  in  a  very  few  instances  did  they  amount 
to  blows. 

So  few  were  the  cases  of  serious  litigation,  that  when 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  435 

the  first  Circuit  Courts  were  held  in  the  four  different 
counties,  there  appeared  but  one  case  of  assault  in  the 
whole  country,' and  in  that  the  circumstances  were  so 
extenuating  that  the  defendant  was  fined  only  twenty- 
five  dollars.  The  highest  charge  that  came  before  either 
Justices  or  Judges,  in  Oregon,  up  to  1845,  was  against  a 
man  for  challenging  another  to  fight  a  duel,  who,  for  a 
foolish  violation  of  a  law  which  had  just  been  passed,  was 
fined  in  the  sum  of  five  hundred  dollars,  and  disfranchised 
for  life.  It  being  the  first  case  of  the  kind  in  the  country, 
the  last  part  of  the  sentence  was  remitted  by  a  special  act 
of  the  Legislature. 

There  are  vagabonds  and  scape-gallowses  in  almost 
every  country,  and  it  would  be  singular  if  none  had  found 
their  way  to  Oregon.  That  this  may  have  been  the  case, 
appears  from  a  most  desperate  afljray  which  greatly 
disturbed  the  quiet  of  the  community,  and  which  took 
place  in  the  upper  part  of  the  settlement  on  the  Walla- 
mette  river. 

A  man  by  the  name  of  Joel  Turnham,  who  possessed 
a  most  reckless  and  desperate  disposition,  committed 
several  outrages  upon  a  peaceful  and  inoflfensive  man  by 
the  name  of  Webley  Hauxhurst.  One  day,  Turnham 
took  occasion  to  tie  his  horse  in  Hauxhurst's  oat  field,  as 
he  had  frequently  done  before,  without  asking  liberty, 
and  then  going  to  Hauxhurst's  house,  the  latter  expostu- 
lated with  him  for  taking  such  undue  liberties  with  his 
property.  This  so  enraged  Turnham  that  he  seized 
Hauxhurst  by  the  throat,  with  the  intention  of  flogging 
him  ;  but,  while  in  the  act  of  throwing  him  to  the  floor, 
the  wife  of  Hauxhurst,  who  was  an  Indian  woman  of  the 
Callapooah  tribe,  seized  a  board  that  lay  near,  and  with 
one  blow  upon  the  head  of  Turnham,  for  an  instant, 
paralized  every  muscle  in  his  frame,  and  brought  him 
staggering  to  the  floor.  Soon,  however,  Turnham  ga- 
thered himself  up  and  immediately  left  the  house,  swear- 
ing vengeance  upon  the  woman,  saying,  "There  is  no 
law  against  kilhng  Indians." 

Hauxhurst,  fearing  as  well  for  his  own  safety,  as  that 
Turnham  would  carry  his  threat  into  execution  against 


436  OREGON    TERRITORY. 

the  life  of  his  wife,  resolved  upon  taking  immediate 
measures  to  secure  the  arrest  of  Turnham. 

Turnham  himself,  at  the  previous  election,  had  been 
chosen  constable,  and  consequently,  L.  H.  Judson,  Esq., 
on  apphcation  being  made  by  Hauxhurst  for  a  precept 
against  Turnham,  deputized  a  man  by  the  name  of  John 
Edmonds  to  take  him  into  custody.  Edmonds  immedi- 
ately took  the  precept,  and  walking  into  a  shop  where 
Turnham  was  with  a  number  of  other  persons,  told  him 
that  he  was  his  prisoner,  and  commenced  reading  the 
warrant.  Not  being  able  to  read  it  readily,  on  account 
of  an  impediment  in  his  speech,  Turnham  said,  "  Here, 
let  me  read  it ;"  and  snatching  it  out  of  the  hands  of 
Edmonds,  tore  it  in  pieces,  and  stamped  it  beneath  his 
feet ;  and  then,  seizing  a  knife  in  one  hand,  and  a  ham- 
mer in  the  other,  swore  he  would  butcher  the  first  man 
that  attempted  to  take  him.  Edmonds  called  for  help, 
but  none  dared  to  come  near.  Turnham,  therefore, 
walked  out  of  the  shop,  mounted  his  horse  and  rode  off 
towards  the  house  of  Hauxhurst.  Another  warrant  was 
issued,  and  Edmonds  was  advised  to  enter  into  all  neces- 
sary precautions  to  take  Turnham  at  any  rate.  Accord- 
ingly, he  proceeded  to  the  Oregon  Institute  and  got  Mr. 
Hamilton  Campbell  and  some  others,  to  go  and  assist 
him.  Supposing  that  Turnham  would  fight,  and  from 
his  desperate  and  sanguinary  character  would  doubtless 
attempt  to  kill  him,  Edmonds  armed  himself  with  a  re- 
volving six-barreled  pistol  that  was  sure  fire,  and  pro- 
ceeded on  to  Hauxhurst's  house.  Turnham  had  been 
there  and  ground  his  large  knife,  which  he  usually  carried 
in  his  belt  under  his  coat,  but  had  left  a  short  time  before 
Edmonds  arrived. 

Looking  back  from  the  prairie  over  which  he  was 
passing,  he  saw  a  company  of  men  as  they  were  dis- 
mounting from  their  horses,  and  immediately  wheeled 
his  horse  around,  and  rode  back  upon  the  full  gallop  to- 
wards Hauxhurst's  house.  As  Turnham  approached, 
Edmonds  placed  himself  inside  of  a  small  gate  which 
led  into  the  door-yard,  with  his  right  hand  placed  on  the 
breech  of  his  pistol,  which  he  carried  in  his  pantaloon's 


OREGON    TERRITORY.  437 

pocket.  Turnham,  paying  no  attention  to  him,  came  up 
immediately  to  the  gate,  and  while  passing  through  into 
the  yard,  Edmonds  put  his  left  hand  upon  Turnham's 
shoulder,  and  said,  "  You  are  my  prisoner."  Turnham 
immediately  drew  his  long  knife  and  brandished  it  in 
Edmonds'  face,  and  Edmonds  as  quickly  presented  his 
six-shooter  at  Turnham's  breast.  They  eyed  each 
other  for  an  instant,  but  Turnham,  mad  to  desperation, 

exclaimed,   "Shoot  and  be  d d;"  and  commenced 

throwing  himself  backwards  and  forwards,  from  one 
side  of  the  yard  to  the  other,  for  the  twofold  purpose 
of  evading  the  bullets,  and  of  placing  himself  in  a  posi- 
tion to  enable  him  to  make  a  successful  drive  upon  his 
antagonist.  Those  who  witnessed  the  aifray,  have  no 
doubt  but  that  he  was  bent  upon  the  death  of  Edmonds. 
Some  one  within  the  house  was  heard  to  cry  out  to 
Edmonds,  "Why  don't  you  shoot]"  At  this  Edmonds 
commenced  his  fire.  The  first  two  bullets  missed  Turn- 
ham altogether.  The  third  wounded  him  in  his  knee, 
the  fourth  in  his  neck,  the  fifth  in  his  face,  and  during 
all  this  time  he  was  rushing  forward  upon  Edmonds  with 
the  utmost  vengeance. 

When  the  fifth  ball  hit  him,  he  clapped  one  hand  to 
the  wound,  and  cried  out,  "  Oh ! "  and  hesitated  a  mo- 
ment as  if  he  would  yield  ;  but  gathering  himself  up  for 
one  more  struggle,  while  making  his  last  and  most  des- 
perate effort  to  plunge  his  knife  into  the  heart  of  Ed- 
monds, the  sixth  ball  pierced  his  temple,  he  fell  and 
instantly  expired. 

This  case  was  of  such  a  nature,  as  in  the  estimation 
of  the  Supreme  Judge,  to  demand  an  investigation  by 
the  Grand  Jury.  Accordingly,  Edmonds  gave  bonds 
for  his  appearance  at  Court,  and,  though  his  enemies 
labored  hard  to  convict  him  of  murder,  yet,  when 
the  matter  was  thoroughly  investigated  by  the  Jury, 
it  was  pronounced  to  be  a  clear  case  of  justifiable 
homicide. 

THE     END. 


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N.    MANCHESTER, 
INDIANA