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HARPEf^&BROS,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HosleflbyGoOgk'
W A I K N A;
ADYBNTUKBS
lOSQTJlTO SHORE.
BT SAMUEL A. BARD.
NEW YORK:
HAEPER & BROTHERS.
829 & 3S1 PEAKL 8TKEET.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
Entered, aceordicg to Act of Congress, iu the year 1356, by
Hakper 4 Bbotbees,
In the Clerk's Office of tha Southera District of New York.
Hosted byGoOgle
P E E F A E .
Scene. — A lonely sliere.
Enter Taneek and MOSQUITO Maw.
Well, my dark friend, who are you ?
" Waikna .'" A man !
And -what is your nation ?
" Waikna .'" A nation of men !
Pretty good for you, my dark friend ! There
was once a great nation — a few old bricks are about
all that remains of it now — ^whose people were
proud to caU themselves — — hut then what do
you know about the Eomans ?
" Him good for drink^ — him grog ?"
Bah ! No !
"Den no good ! bah, too !"
Exewnt ambo.
Now such a dialogue took place, or might have
taken place, on the Mosquito Shore. For all
HosleflbyGoOgk'
artistic purposes it did take place ; and, as my
book is chiefly devoted to the Mosquito man and
his country, it shall he called Waikna— a word
that, in the Mo8C[uito tongue, means simply Man,
but which is proudly claimed as the generic
itioQ of the people of the entire coast.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I.
Tempted— Painting a Portrait-Tiio Schooner Pifnce Albert— CaptalD m
Orew— Antonio— SmperatllinnB — Gathering of tlio Storm— A Scono .
OHAPTEE II.
Roncador"— The Eacape— Coisl Cays— Scene with the Dead—A Might
FeTei^Dclirium— lalani Scenea— Turtles— A cruel Practice— Bail hoi
in Encounter— Eevolvers verms KnlveB— Departnre from "El Eonot
'"— blBUd of Frotidence— A Soena of Eevelry- Away for the Jton-
OHAPTEE III.
Approach to Blueflclda— Au Impprlsl City— New Qnartars— Mr. Hodgson
—The MnSQUlto King—" George William Clarence] "—Grog uef s«s Goapei
—The " Big-Drunk"-r-A Moaqnilo Funeral— aingujar Practlcea— SunereU-
tlons— An Ul-fMed Colony-Sad EefleoUons
OHAPTER IV.
Hama Indians— Depsrtnro from Blneflelde— Canoe Voyage- Slrango Com-
punlonBhip— The " HsuloTer"— Onr first EnCBmpment— Epicurean Epl-
eoae— TTight under the Tmpica— Life on the lagoons— Pearl Cay Lagoon
—Climbing after Cocoa-Suta— A aolitary Graye- Mangroyes— eoldior
Sambo Settlement—" A King-Paper"— Extraordinary Kcception— Captain
Drummer — Khi^s House— Vanilla Plant — Phllanthiopy— A Dance —
"Spoiled Ilead"— Ehe-Ught Fishing— N^ht Scene
CHAPTER V.
Vliitto thsTniile Osye— Spearing Turtle- Jnmphig Tmtle—Betnm to the
Lagoon— 03 again— Natiye Indigo— Another ffou/ower— Tropioal Tor-
ments— Braying the Bar— Great Elyer— Temporal Camp— Conthmoua
Gain— Dolefnl Dnmpa— Freaks of the Flood— Kain, Bain 1— Oraw-Fiah—
" El Moro"— The Mauzaniiia— GliavaB— The Eelease , , , , 1
HosleflbyGoOgk'
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VI.
On the Blrer— Bttong Cnrrents— An Indisn Vlllige— A Woolwa Welcome
—Ceremonious KocepUon— EelaHoDo of the Indians— Their Eabit!— A
Tabooed BaUbllslinicnt— Prctjectcd Sport— HimtiDe tlie MBnltna — HabiM
of the Animftl— The Attack— Great Esoitement— Succeeafnl Qqjimre— Di-
CHAPTER Til.
Dopntture— The Planlaio-Tiee— Eiablre— ifoctuinal Noises— ■' Slitring up
the Animals"- At Sea Again— Mollusca of the Caribbean— "Walpasiia— The
MoonHt Ocean— Fi-inia-pulkaElTei^Vlnes and Vetdure—SaTannahs— Vil-
lage of QuaDiwatla— Inhospilable Beoeptiou— A Eetreat— Fatal Bneonn-
tei^A Trial o( Cunning— Tropical Thnnder-Stoi™- A Second Encounter
— Tha right, and the Triumph—Flisht— Asylnm in the For eat— The Bi-
CHAPTEE ym.
'J^plI Camp— A Piotnresqne Kotreat— "Wild Life— Pslm Wine— Queen of the
Forest— Fine Bidgea— Parrots and Paroqnets—AFright— "Only a Dante"
-Trapping the Tapir— Successful Eeault— Narrow Escape— "An Army
irtth Banners" — Honey-beei-OomniunJoE with Natnia— Onoa mote on
CHAPTER IX.
goona— Aqufltlo Birds— ailk-Cotton Tree— Water Plant— Nigbt TiaTeling
— Tongla lagoon- Fishing— A Disagreeable Discovery- The Chase— Proa-
pact of a Fighi^^uccessrul Device— Diamond out Diamond— Safely olt—
WaTa lagoon- Attack of raver— PrimMve PhjBlo— Poisonous Keptiles—
My Poyer Boy Bitten- The Core 1'
CHAPTER X.
Leave I'ever Camp— Tonias Indians— Formal Eeceptlon— Singular Prae-
tloos— Toivka Marriage- Eitraordinaij Ceromaniis- Prcsenls ProplUa-
tory— ShoaMcring the Kesponsiblllty— MaiTlaBe Festival- How to get
Dmnt:— The End of it— Wild Animals— Indian EabbllB— The CnrKisow-
Chachalaca—SibBonite— Elver Turtle— Savory OooHng . . 2i
CHAPTER XI.
Duckwatta Lagoon— Aboriginal Eell<a— Sandy Hay— Mosquito Fashions-
Sambos of Sanday Bay— Qeneral Peter Slam— An English Captain— Bra-
lalilj— Interference- A Drunken Debanch— Mishia Drink— Dances and
Songs— A Snkla Woman— Opportune Warning— Hurried Departure—
PonerorUieSukias— MakingMlshla—ADisgDatiiigOperation . .2
HosleflbyGoOgk'
CHAPTER XII.
itpa Gracias— Its lulialjilaDts— Fine SaTannnh— 3am;bo Pmetiees— Motel
Mode of HunUng— Island of Ssn Ho— Mangrove Oyeters— Wal of the 8u-
tia— A Myslsrious Scoross— Snparatltloiia of Uie Saniboa— Wulasha and
Lewlre— Charaotev and Habits of [he Mosqnitos— DrBOkenneas— Decroaso
— FesUval o( the Denil—Naw Plans— EiTor 'Wfinks ot SegoTia— Ignan^—
CHAPTEIl Xm.
«y— End of tlie Savannalis— Infiian Vniage~Tlio
Ldvontnre— Sanctuaiy of the BnliiB— Hosom-Bal,
■a— Mjataries— Enlns among the Mountains— Seii-
CHAPTEE XIV.
L"p the Cape Eiter— Impoaiog Sceneiy-Sform among the Monntains— In-
flaonoe of the Moon'e Bays— Eivei- Ti.-olas— Mountain Streams— Plotu-
ifsque Embarcadem— A Sweet Encampment— An Accident— laW up—
Send oft the Foyer Boj- for Help— SBOeay EecoTery— Monkeys— An En-
connter with tha Piga— To Eat or to be Eaten, a wide Differonce— Ketmn
of the Poyei— Atandoninent of the Canoe—" El More" again— Ascent of
the Mountains— Another Temporal— Kefiectlons onFijd .21
OOAPTEE XV.
The Crest of the Mountains— A Desert Waste— Descent-Elo Gnallambie—
Sold Waahlng- Tha Poyer -Village— Habits of the Poyera— Plantations-
Poisoning Ksli- Primitive Arts— Indian Naiads— Patriarohai Government
—Departure- Klo Amaowass— Rio Fatncs—" Gateway of Hell"— Ap-
proach to the Sea— Brus Lngoon ffi
CHAPTER XVr.
Arrival at Bnis— A Festival- Hospitality- Loss of the Poyer Bor-Cfvtltza-
tion of the Caribs—Coeoa-Groves— Sanitary Preaiuilona- -Wild-rig or
Banyan-Tree- Habits ot the Catibs— Industjy— The Mahoganj-Cnttcrs—
Calabratlon of their Ectam— A Carih Danflj'— Polygamy^ingular Prac-
tieffl— A Carih Crow— Departure- Tha Bay of Hondnraa— The Bottom of
the Sea— Island of Guanaja— Night-Sombre Soliloqniea- Antonio's Secret
—The Eoushig of the Indians— Deep-Md Sohemea of Eovonge— The Voice
APPENDIX.
B— NoiTSi
C— MosQnn
Hosted byGoOgle
ILLUSTRATIONS.
8. THE AETIST, . .
4, MT LAHDLADl
Ck ANTONIO OHDL
a THE BHIP-WEECK
T. THE EHOAPE
8. " SHBLUNO" TDBTLE3
a. A8AILI A 8AIL1
m "EL EONOATTOB"
11. APFBOAOH TO BHrEPIEIJ»a
19. eOIKB TO THE rilKESAL
18. A MOBQDrrO BDBIAI...
14 AFLOAT Dj THE LACFOON
IKCLIUBOrO APTKE OOOOAS
le. AUAN6B0VB SWAMP
IT. THE E08KATE SPOONBILL
18. OAPTAIH DBDMMBK
19, TDBTLE CATS
BO. SPSABIlfa TUETLE
91 TEMPORAL CAMP
aa. A FRESHET IN THE EIVEE
aa HDNTING THEMANirUS
M. HABPOONB AND LAHO^
9II.TBOPI0AL VEEDintE
1I8.1UBINE HOLLUBOA ,,,
ST. ON THE MOONLIT SEA
93. YILLAQB OF QUAMWATLA..,....,.,,
St. FIQ-HT NEAB QHAUWATLA
SO.TAPIE CAMP
81 PALMETTO EOTAl
ga THE DEATH OP THE TAPIE
88.BIBDSOE THE LAGOONS
84. LIFE AMONSTHE LAGOONS
8B. OHASE ON TONSLA LAGOON
8e.FBTBE CAMP
8T. TOWKAS INDIASB
88. THE END OF ITr
Se. TOWN OP 8ABDT BAT
#. A GOLDEN IDOL
it O-ENEBAL PETEB SLAM
43, BUKIA OF SANDY BAT
«S. OAFE GBACIAB A DIOS
M.HDNTINa KEEE
45. BITEE BOOAT
«. THE MOTHEE OF THE TI8EES
a. BANOTHAET OP THE SUKIA
*a 80ENEET ON THE BITEE WANKS...
4». EMBABOAOEBO ON THE TIBOLAS...
DO. THE WAEEE
6t THE MOUNTAIN 0EE8T
69. A POTEB TILLAeE
B8. "THE 6ATEWAY OF HELL"
-■ p AT B
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HosleflbyGoOgk'
MOSQUITO SHORE.
^^\l\ -I,
MONTH m Jamaica ih enough
fui anj sinnei's punishment,
let alone that of a tolerably
good Chnstian At any i ate,
a week hid given me a surfeit of King&ton, with
its amietei, tropical Jews, and variegated inhabit-
ant b, one-half black, one-third brown, and the
balance a-i fan as could be e\pected, consideiiu^
the abominable, unintelligible Congo-English which
they spoke. Besides, the cholera which seems to
HosleflbyGoOgk'
14 THE MOSQUITO SHORE,
be domesticated in Kingston, and to have be-
come one of its local institutions, liad begun to
spread from the stews, and to invade the more
civilized parts of the town. All the inhabitants,
therefore, whom the emancipation had left rich
enough to do so, were flying to the mountauis,
with the pestilence following, hke a sleuth-hound,
at their heels. Kingston was palpably no place
for a stranger, and that stranger a poor-devil artist.
The cholera had cheated me of a customer. I
was moody, and therefore swung myself in a
hammock, ht a cigar, and held a grand incLuisition
on myself, as the poets are wont to do on their
souls. It ran after this wise, with a very little noise
hut much smoke: —
"Lite ia pleasant at twenty-six. Do you hke
life ?"
Rather,
" Then you can't like the cholera ?"
No t— with a hurried pull at the cigar,
" But you'll have it here '."
Then I '11 he off!
" Where ?"
Any where !
"G-ood, but the exchecLuer, my hoy, how about
that ? You can't get away without money."
There was a long pause, a great cloud of smoke,
and much swinging in the hammock, and a final
echo —
Yea, I must have money !
I I got up, spasmodically opened my portman-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE abtist'b soliloquy. 15
teau, dived deep amongst collars, pencils and foul
linen, took out my piu^e, turned its contents on the
table, and "began to count.
Forty-three and a half, forty-four, forty-five, and
this handful of small silver and copper. Call it
fifty in all,
" Only fifty dollars !" ejaculated my mental in-
terrogator.
Only fifty ! responded I.
"'T won't do !"
I ht another cigar. It was clear enough, it
would n't do ; and I got into the hammoct again.
Commend me to a hammock, (a fita hammock,
none of your canvas ahominations,) and a cigar, as
valuable aids to meditation and eelf-commnnion of
all kinds. There was a long silence, but the in-
CLuisitibn went on, until the cigar was finished.
Finally " I '11 do it !" I exclaimed, in the voice of a
man determined on some great deed, not agree-
able but necessary, and I tossed the cigar stump
out of the window. But what I determined to do,
may seem no great thing after all ; it was only to
paint the portrait of my landlady.
" Yes, 1 11 paint the old wench 1"
Now, I am an artist, not an author, and have
got the cart before the horse, inasmuch as my
narrative does not preserve the " harmonies," as
every well-considered composition should do. It
has .iust occurred to me that I should first have
HosleflbyGoOgk'
16 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
told who I am, and how I came to he in Jamaica,
and especially in that filthy place, Kingston. It
is n't a long story, and if it is not too late, I will
tell it now.
As all the world knows, there are people who sell
rancid whale oil, and deal in soap, and affect a
great contempt for artiats. They look down grand-
ly on the quiet, pale men who paint their hroad red
faces on canvas, and seem to think that the few
greasy dollars which they grudgingly pay for theii'
flaming immortahty, should he received with meek
confusion and Hushing thanke, as a rare exhihition
of condescension and patronag'e. I never liked such
patronage, and therefore would' paint no red faces.
Bat there is a great difference between red, bulbous
faces, and rosy faces. There was that sweet girl at
the boarding-school in L Place, the Baltimore
girl, with the dark eyes and tresses of the South,
and the fair cheek and elastic step of the North !
Of course, I painted her portrait, a dozen times at
least, I should say. I could paint it now ; and I
fear it is more than painted on my heart, or it
would n't rise smiling here, to distract my thoughts,
make me sigh, and stop my story.
An artist who would n't paint portraits and had
a soul above patronage — what was there for him to
do in. Kew York ? Two compositions a year in the
Art Union, got in through Mr. Sly, the manager,
and a friend of mine, were not an adequate support
for the most moderate man. I '11 paint grand his-
torical paintings, thought I one day, and atraight-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE ABTI8T TEMPTED, 17
way purchased a large canvas. I had selected my
aubjectj Balboa, the discoverer of the Paciiic, bear-
ing aloft the flag of Spain, rushing breast-deep in
ita waves, and claiming its boundless shores and
nixmberlesB islands for the crown of Castile and
Leon. I had begun to sketch in the plumed In-
dians, gazing in mute surprise upon this startling
scene, when it occurred to me — ^for I have patches
of common sense scattered amongst the flowery
fields of my fancy — to count over the amount of
my patrimonial portion. Grand historical paintings
req^uire years of study and labor, and I found I had
but two hundred doUars, owed for a month's lodg-
ing, and had an unsettled tailor's account. It was
clear that historical painting was a luxury, for the
present at least, beyond my reach. It was then
some evil spirit, (I strongly suspect it was the ,)
taldng the cue doubtless from my projected picture,
" Tiy landscape, my hoy ; you have a rare hand
for landscapes — good flaming landscapes, full of
yellow and vermilhon, you know t"
Although there was no one in the room, I can
swear to a distinct slap on the back, after the em-
phatic " you know" of the tempter. It was a true
diabolical suggestion, the yeUow and vermillion,
but not so sulphurous as what followed : —
" Go to the tropics boy, the glorious tropics,
■where the sun is supreme, and never shares his do-
minion with blue-nosed, leaden-colored, rheumy-
eyed frost-gods ; go there, and catch the matchless
HosleflbyGoOgk'
18 THE MOSyUIl'O SHORE.
tints of the skies, the lining emerald of the forests,
and the light-giving azure of the ■waters ; go where
the birds are rainbow-hued, and the very fish are
golden ; where — "
But I had heard enough ; I wae blinded by the
dazzhng panorama which Fancy swept past my
vision, and cried, with enthusiastic energy,
" Hold ; I '11 go to the glorious tropics !"
And I went — more's the pity — in a little dirty
schooner, full of port and flour ; and that is the
way I came to be in Jamaica, dear reader, if you
want to know. I had been there a month or more,
and had wandered all over the really magnificent
interior, and filled my portfolio with sbetchee. But
that did not satisfy me ; there were other tropical
lands, where Nature had grander aspects, where
there were broad lakes and liigh and snow-crowned
volcanoes, which waved their plumes of smoke in
mid-heaven, defiantly, in the very face of the sun ;
lands through whose ever-leaved forests Cortez,
Balboa, and Alvarado, and Cordova had led their
mailed followers, and in whose depths frowned the
strange gods of aboriginal superstition, beside the
deserted altars and unmarked graves of a departed
and mysterious people, Jamaica was beautiful cer-
tainly, but I longed for what the transeendentalists
call the sublimely-beautiful, or, in plain English,
the combined sublime and beautiful — for, in short,
an equatorial Switzerland. And, although Jamaica
was fine in scenery, its dilapidated plantations, and
iilthy, lazy negroes, already more than half relapsed
HosleflbyGoOgk'
ART IN KINOSTON. 19
into native and congenial barbarism, were repug-
nant to my Ameriean notions and tastes. They
grinned around me, those negroes, when I ato, and
scratched their heads over my paper when I drew.
They followed me every where, hke black jackals,
and jabbered their incomprehensive lingo in my
ears until they deafened me. And then their odor
under tropical heats t Faugh ! " 'Twas rank, and
smelt to heaven !"
I had, therefore, come down from the interior to
set up my easel in Kingston, paint a few views, and
thereby raise the wind for a trip to the mainland.
Of course, I did not fly from painting red-faced
portraits in the United States, to paint ebony ones
in Jamaica. My scruples, however, did not apply
to customers. There was a " hrown man," which is
genteel Jamaican for mulatto, who was an Assem-
bly-man, or something of the Mnd, and wanted a
view of the edifice at Spanish-town, whejrein he
legislated for the " emancipated island." I had
agreed to paint it for the liberal compensation of
twenty pounds, But one hot, murky morning, my
brown lawgiver took the cholera, and before noon
was not only dead, but buried— and my picture
only half-finished ! Mem. As people have a prac-
tice of dying, always get your pay beforehand.
Voltaire, I believe, has said, that if a toad were
asked his ideal of beauty, he would, most likely,
describe himself, and dwell complacently on a cold,
clammy, yellow belly, a brown, warty, corrugated
back, and become ecstatic on the subject of goggle
HosleflbyGoOgk'
20 THE MOSQUITO SHOBB,
eyes. And, I verily believe, tliat if my landlady
had been asked the same cLuestion, she would have
coquettishly patted up her ■woolly curls over each
oleaginous cheek, and glanced toward the mirror, by
way of reply. Black, glossy black, s.nd/at, marvel-
ously fat, yet she was possessed, even she, of her
full share of feminine vanity. There was no mis-
taking, from the first day of my arrival, that her
head was running on a portrait of herself. She was
fond of money and penurious, and careful, there-
fore, not to venture upon a proposition until she
had got some kind of a clew as to what her immor-
tality would be likely to cost. I had, however,
diplomatically evaded all of her approaches, up to
the unfortunate day when my Assembly-man died.
She brought me the news herself, and saw that it
annoyed rather than shocked me, and that I stop-
ped painting with the air of a man abandoning a
bad job. She evidently thought the time favorable
for a coup de ma/in ; there was a gleam of cunning
in her little, round, half-buried eyes, and the very
ebony of her cheek lightened palpably, as she said :
" So your picture wiE be no good for nothing ?"
Nol
" You have not got the — — ?"
And she significantly rubbed the fore-finger of
one hand in the palm of the other.
No !
There was a pause, and then she resumed :
" I want a picture !"
Eh?
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A PORTKAIT, 21
" A picture, you know !"
And now sKe complacently stroked down her troad
face, and exhibited a wide, vermilion chaem, with
a formidable phalanx of ivories, hy way of a sug-
gestive smile.
No, I never paint portraits !
" Not for ten pounds ?"
No ; nor for a hundred, — go I
And my landlady rolled herself out of the room
with a motion which, had she weighed less than
two hundred, might have passed for a toss.
It was oa the evening of this day, and after this
conversation, one half of the Assembly-house at
Spanish-town staring redly from the canvas in the
comer, that I lay in my hammock and soliloquized
aa aforesaid. It wae thus and then, that I resolved
to paint my landlady.
And having now, by means of this long paren-
thesis, restored the harmonies of my story, and got
my horse and cart in correct relative positions, I am
ready to go ahead.
I not only resolved to paint my landlady, but I
did it, right over the half-finished Assembly-house,
It was the first, and, by the blessing of Heaven, so
long as there are good potatoes to be dug at the
rate of six cents the bushel, it shall he my last por-
trait. I can not help laughing, even now, at that
fat, glistening face, looking for all the world as if
it had been newly varnished, surmoiinted by a
HosleflbyGoOgk'
22 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
gaudy red scarf, wound round the head in the-form
of a peaked turbau ; and two fafc arms, rolling
down like elephants' trunks against a white rohe
for a background, which concealed a hnst that
pa^seth description. That portrait—" long may it
wave !" as the man said, at the Kossuth dinner,
when he toasted " The day we celehrate !"
My landlady was satisiied, and generous withal,
for she not only paid me the ten pounds, and gave
me my two weeks board and lodging in the bargain,
but introduced me to a colored gentleman, a friend
of hers, who sailed a little schooner twice a year to
the Mosquito Shore, on the coast of Central Amer-
ica, where he traded off refuse rum and gaudy cot-
tons for turtle-shells and saisaparilla. There was a
steamer from Kingston, once a month, to Oartha-
gena, Chagres, San Juan, Belize, and "along
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE "PEINOE ALBERT. 28
j;liore ;" but, for obvious reasons, I could not go
in a steamer. 80 I struck up a bargain with the
fragrant skipper, by the terms of which he bound
Iiimself to lanii me, hag and baggage, at Bluefields,
the seat of Mosquito royalty, for the sum of three
pounds, "currency,"
Why Captain Ponto (for eo I shall caU my land-
lady's friend, the colored skipper) named his little
schooner the " Prince Albert," I can not imagine,
unless he thought thereby to do honor to the Queen-
Consort ; for the aforesaid schooner had evidently
got old, and been condemned, long before that lucky
Dutchman woke the echoes of Grotha with his baby
cries. The " Prince Albert" was of about seventy
tons burden, built something on the model of the
"Jung-frau," the firat vessel of the Netherlands
that rolled itself iato New York bay, like some un-
wieldy porpoise, after a rapid passage of about six
months from the Hague. The wise men of the
Historical Society have satisfactorily shown, after
long and ditigeiit research, that the "Jung-frau"
measured sixty feet keel, sixty feet beam, and
sixty feet hold, and was modeled after one of
Eubens' Venuses, The dimensions of the " Prince
Albert" were every way the same, only twenty feet
less. The sails were patched and the cordage
spUced, and she did not leak so badly as to recLuire
more than six hours' steady pumping out of the
twenty-four. The crew was composed of Captain
Ponto, Thomas, his mate, one seaman, and an In-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
24 THE MOSgUITO fiHOKE.
dian boy from. Yucatan, whose business it was to
cook and do the pumping. As may be supposed,
the Indian boy did not mst for want of occupa-
tion.
It was a clear morning, toward the close of De-
cember, that Captain Ponto's wife, a white woman,
with a hopeful family of six children, the three eld-
est with shirts, and the three youngest without,
came down to the schooner to see us off. I watched
the parting over the after-bulwarks, and observed
the tears roll down Mrs. Ponto's cheeks as she bade
her sable spouse good-hy, I wondered if she really
could have any attachment for her husband, and if
custom and association had utterly worn away the
natural and instinctive repugnance which exists be-
tween the superior and inferior races of mankind ?
I thought of the condition of Jamaica itself, and
mentally inquired if it were not due to a grand,
practical misconception of the laws of Nature, and
the inevitable result of their reversal ? It can not
be denied that where the superior and inferior races
are brought in contact, and amalgamate, there we
uniformly find a hybrid stock springing up, with
most, if not all of the vices, and few, if any of the
virtues of the originals. And it will hardly be ques-
tioned, by those experimentally acquainted with the
subject, that the manifest lack of public morality and
private virtue, in the Spanish- American States, has
followed from the fatal facility with which the Span-
ish colonists have intermixed with the negroes and
Indians, The rigid and inexorable exclusion, in re-,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE OPEN SEA. 25
spect to the inferior races, of tlie dominant blood
of North America, flowing through different chan-
nels perhaps, yet from the same great Teutonic
source, is one grand secret of its vitaUty, and the
best safeguard of its permanent ascendency.
Mrs. Ponto wept ; and as we slowly worked our
way outside of Port Eoyal, I could see her waving
her apron, for she was innocent of a more classical
signal, in fond adieus. We finally got out from
under the lee of the land, and caught in our sails
the full trade-wind, blowing steadily in tlie de-
sired direction. I sat long on deck, watching the
receding island sinking slowly in the bright sea,
until Captain Ponto signified to me, in the patois
of Jamaica, which the deluded people flatter them-
selves is English, that dinner was ready, and led
the way into what he called the cabin. This cabin
was a little den, seven feet by nine at the utmost,
low, dark and dirty, with no light or air except
what entered through the narrow hatchway, and,
consequently, hot as an oven. Two lockers, one on
each side, answered for seats by day, and, covered
with suspicious mattresses, for beds by night. The
cabin was sacred to Captain Ponto and myself, the
mate having been displaced to make room for the
gentleman who had. paid three pounds for his pas-
sage ! I question if the " Prince Albert " had ever
before been honored with a passenger ; certainly not
since she had come into the hands of Captain Ponto,
who therefore put his best foot forward, with a full
consciousness of the importance of the incident.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
Ponto had "been a slave once, and was consecLuently
imperious and tyrannical now, toward all people in
a subordinate relation to himself. Yet, as he had
evidently been owned by a man of consequence, he
had not entirely lost hia early deference for the
white man, and sometimes forgot Ponto the cap-
tain in Ponto the chattel. It was in the latter
character only, that he was perfectly natural ;
and, although I derived no little amusement from
his attempts to enact a loftier part, I shall not
trouble the reader with an episode on Captain
Ponto. He was a very worthy darkey, with a
strong aversion to water, both exteriorly and in-
ternally. The mate, and the man who constituted
the crew, were ordinary negroes of no possible ac-
count.
But Antonio, the Indian boy, who cooked and
pumped, and then pumped and cooked — I fear ho
never slept, for when there was not a " sizzling " in
the little black caboose, there was sure to be a
screeching of the rickety pump — Antonio attracted
my interest from the iiist ; and it was i
when I found that he spoke a little ]
perfect in Spanish, and withal could read in both
languages. There was something mysterious in
finding him among these uncouth negroes, with
his relatively fair skin, intelligent eyes, and long,
well-ordered, black hair. He was like a lithe
panther among lumbering bears ; and he did
his work in a way which accorded with his In-
dian character, without murmm\ and with a kind
HosleflbyGoOgk'
ANTONIO, THE INDIAN BOT. 27
of silent doggedness, that implied but little re-
spect for his present masters. Ho eeldom replied
to their orders in words, and then only in mono-
syllables. I asked Captain Ponto about him, but
he knew nothing, except that he was from Yucatan,
and had presented himself on board only the day
previously, and offered to work his passage to the
main land. And Captain Ponto indistinctly inti-
mated that he had taken the boy solely on my ac-
count, which, of cotirse, led to the inference on my
part, that the captain ordinarily did his own cook-
ing. He also ventured a patronizing remark about
the Indians generally, to the effect that they made
very good servants, " if they yere kept under ;"
which, coining from an es-slave, I thought rather
good.
All this only served to interest me the more in
Antonio ; and, although- I succeeded in engaging
him in ordinary conversation, yet I utterly failed in
drawing him out, as the saying is, in respect to his
past history, or future purposes: Whenever I ap-
proached these subjects he became silent and im-
passible, and bis eyes assumed an expression of cold
inquiry, not unmingled with latent suspicion, which
half inclined me to beheve that he was a fugitive
from justice. Yet he did not look the felon or
knave ; and when the personal incLuiries dropped,
his face resumed its usual pleasant although sad
expression, and I became ashamed that I had sus-
pected him. There was certainly something sin-
gular about Antonio ; but, as I could imagine no
HosleflbyGoOgk'
28 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
very profound mystery attaching to a cook, on
hoard of the " Prince Albert," after the first day, I
made no attempts to penetrate his secrets, but
sought rather to attach him to me, as a prospect-
ively useful companion in the country to which I
was bound Si I relieved him occasionally at the
pump although he jrot feted aga net t and
finally, to the horror of Captain Poiito, and the
palpable high disdain of the mate, I became so in-
timate with him as to show him my portfolio of
drawings. His admiration, I found to my surprise,
was always judiciously bestowed, and his apprecia-
tion of outline and coloring showed that he had
the spirit of an artist. Several times, iu glancing
HosleflbyGoOgk'
GATHEEINGOFTHESTOKM. 2^
over the drawingSj he stopped short, looked up, his
face full of intelligeiice, as if about to speak, and I
paused to listen. Each time, howeverj the smile
vanished, the flexible muscles ceased their play and
became rigid, and a cold, fllmy mist settled over the
clear eyes which had looked into mine. "Whatevet
was Antonio's secret, great or small, it was evi-
dently one that he half-wished, half-feared to re-
veaL I was puzzled to think that there could
exist any relation between it and my paintings ;
but Antonio was only a cook, and so I dismissed all
reflection on the subject.
On our third day out, the weather, wliicb up to
that time had been clear and beautiful, began to
change, and night settled black and threatening
around us. The wind had increased, but it was
loaded with sultry vapors— the hot breath of the
storm which was pressing on our track. Captain
Ponto was not a scientific sailor, and kept no other
than what is called "dead reckoning." He had
made, the voyage very often, and was confidant of
hie course. "Upon that point, therefore, I gave
myself no uneasiness ; not so much from faith in
Captain Ponto, as because there was nothing in the
world to be done, except to follow his opinion,
Kevertheless the captain was serious, and eousulted
an antediluvian chart which he kept in his cabin.
It was a Rembrandtish picture, that negro tracing
his forefinger slowly over the chart, by the light of
a candle, which only half revealed the little cabin,
while it brought out his grizzly head and anxious
HosleflbyGoOgk'
30 THR MOSQUITO SHOKi;.
face in strong relief against tlie darkness. What
Captain Poiito learned from all this study is more
than I can tell ; but when he came on deck, he
ordered a reef to be made in the sails, and a
variation of several points in our couree, for the
wind not only freshened, but veered to the north-
east. The hot blasts or puffs of air becajne more
and more frequent, and occasional sheets of light-
ning gleamed along the horizon. The sea, too,
was full of phosphorescent light ; fiery monsters
seemed to leap around us and wreath and twine
their livid volmnes in our wake. I could hear the
hiss of their forked tongues where the waters closed
under our stem. I stood, leaning over the bul-
warks, gazing on the gleaming waves, and thinking
of home — for the voyager on the great deep always
thinks of home, when darkness envelops him, and
the storm threatens — when Antonio silently ap-
proached, so silently that I did not hear him,
and took his place at my side. I was somewhat
startled, therefore, when, changing my position a
httle, I saw, by the dim, reflected light of the sea,
his eyes fixed earnestly on mine. " Ah, Antonio," I
said, " is that you ?" and I placed my hand famil-
iarly on his shoulder. He shrank beneath it, as if it
had been fire. " What 's the matter ?" I exclaimed,
reproachfully ; " have I hurt you ?"
" Pardon me 1" he ejaculated, rather than spoke,
in a voice deep and tremulous ; " I know now that
it is not you who will die to-night !"
" What do you mean ? You are not afraid, Anto-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THG lOED WHO NEVER LIKS. 31
nio ? Who thinks of dying ?" I rephed, in a light
tone,
" No 1 it is not myself. I was afraid it might be
you ; for, sir," and he laid a hand cold and clammy
as that of a corpse on mine ; " for, sir, there is
death on hoard this vessel \"
This was said in a voice so awed and earnest that
I was impressed deeply, in spite of myself, and for
some moments made no reply, " You talk wildly,
Antonio," 1 finally said ; "we are going on hravely,
and shall all be in BluefieMs together in a day or
two,"
" All of us, never," he rephed, " never ! The Lord,
who never lies, has told me so ]" and, pressing near
me, he drew from his bosom something resembling
a small, round plate of crystal, except that it
seemed to he slightly luminous, and veined or
clouded with green. " See, see !" he exclaimed,
rapidly, and held the object close to my eyes. I
instinctively obeyed, and gazed intently upon it.
As I gazed, the clouds of green seemed to concen-
trate and assume a regular form, as the moisture of
one's breath passes away from a mirror, until I
distinctly saw, in the center, the miniature of a
human head, of composed and dignified aspect, hut
the eyes were closed, and all the lineaments had the
rigidity of death,
" Do you see ?"
"I do!"
" It is Kucimen, the Lord who never lies I" and
Antonio thrust his taUsman in his bosom again,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
32 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
and slowly moved away. There was no mistake in
wliat I liad seen, and although I am not supersti-
tious, yet the feehng that some catastrophe was
impending gathered at my heart. It was in vain
that I tried to smile at the Indian trick ; the earnest
voice of the Indian hoy still sounded in my ears,
" All of -as, never I" What reason should he have
for attempting to practice his Indian diablerie
on any one, least of all on me ? I rejected the
thought, and endeavored to banish the subject from
my mind.
Meanwhile the wind had gathered strength, and
Captain Ponto had taken in sail, so that we had no
more standing than was necessary to keep the vessel
steady before the wind. The waves now began to
rise, the gloom deepened, the hot puffs of air
became more and more frequent, and the broad
lightning-sheets rose from the horizon to the very
zenith. The thunder, too, came rolhng on, every
peal more distinctly, and occasional heavy drops of
rain fell with an ominous sound on the deck. The
storm was evidently close at hand ; and I left the
aide of the vessel, and approached the little cabin
to procure mj poncho, for I preferred the open deck
and the storm to the suffocation below. The hatch-
way was nearly closed, but there was a hght within.
I stooped to remove the slide, and in doing so
obtained a fuU view of the interior. The spectacle
which presented itself was so extraordinary that I
stopped short, and looked on in mute surprise.
The candle was standing on the locker, and kneel-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE OBI SUPBRSTITJON. 66
ing beside it was tlie captain. He was stripped to
the waistj and held in one hand what appeared to
be the horn of some animal, in which he caught the
blood which dripped from a large gash in the fleshj
part of his left arm, just above the elbow, while he
muttered rapidly some rude and strangely-sounding
words, unlike any I had ever before heard. My
first impression was that Antonio had tried to fulfill
his own prediction, by attempting the life of the
captain ; but I soon saw that he was performing
some religious rite, a sacrifice or propitiation, such'
as the Ohi men etm teach in Jamaica and Santo
Domingo, and which are stealthily observed, even by
the negroes professing Christianity and having a
nominal connection with the church. I recognized
in the horn the mysterious gre-gre of the Gold Coast,
where the lowest form of fd^ish worship prevails,
and where human blood is regarded as the most
acceptable of sacrifices. Kespecting too rigidly all
ceremonies and rites, which may contribute to the
peace of mind of others, to think of disturbing them,
I silently withdrew from the hatchway, and left the
captain to finish his debasing devotions. In a short
time he appeared on deck, and gave some orders in
a calm voice, as one reassured and confident.
I was occupied below for only a few minutes,
yet when I got on deck again the storm was upon
us. The waves were not high, but the water
seemed to be caught up by the wind, and to be
drifted along, like snow, in blinding, drenching
sheets. I was nearly driven off my feet by its
HosleflbyGoOgk'
34 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
force, and would have been carried overboard bad I
not become entangled in the rigging. The howling
of the wind and the hissing of the water would have
drowned the loudest voice, and I was so blinded by
the spray that I could not see. Yet I could feel
that we were driving before the hurricane with
fearful rapidity. The very deck seemed to bend, as
if ready to hreat, beneath our feet. I finally sufB-
ciently recovered myself to be able, in the pauses of
the wind, and when the lightning fell, to catch
glimpses around me. Our sails were torn in tatters,
the yards were gone, in fact every thing was swept
from the deck except three dark figures, like myself,
clinging convulsively to the ropes. On, on, hiilf-
buried in the sea, we drifted with inconceivable
rapidity.
Little did we think that we were rushing on a
danger more terrible than the ocean. The storm had
buffeted us for more than an hour, and it seemed as
if it had exhausted its wrath, and had begun to
subside, when a sound, hoarse and steady, but
louder even than that of the wind, broke on our
ears. It was evident that we were approaching it,
for every instant it became more distinct and omin-
ous. I gazed ahead into the hopeless darkness,
when suddenly a broad sheet of hghtning revealed
immediately before us, and not a cable's length
distant, what, under the lurid gleam, appeared to
be a wall of white spray, dashing literally a hun-
dred feet in the air — a hell of waters, from which
there was no escape. ".E? Boncador!" shrieked the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE SHIPWBECK, 35
captain, in a voice of utter despair, that even then
thrilled hhe a knife in my heart. The fearful
moment of death had come, and I had barely time
to draw a full breath of preparation for the strug-
gle, when we were hterally whelmed in the raging
waters. I felt a shock, a sharp jerk, and the hiss
and gurgle of the sea, a sensation of immense
pressure, followed by a blow like that of a heavy
fall. Again I was lifted up, and again struck
dowuj but this time with less force. I had just
enough consciousness left to know that I was strik-
ing on the sand, and I made an involuntary effort
to rise and escape from the waves. Before I could
gain my feet I was again struck down, again and
again, until, nearer dead than alive, I at last suc-
ceeded in crawling to a spot where the water did
not reach me, I strove to rise now, but could not ;
and, as that is the last thing I remember distinctly
of that terrible night, I suppose I must have fallen
into a swoon.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A, I \\ ^ ^\
?0W lon^ I lemamed insensible I
tnow not, but when my conscious-
SB letuined, whicli it did slowly
' ~' like the hftmg of a turtain, I ftlt
that I was severely huit , and, betore opening; my
eyes, tried to dnye away my terrible recollections,
as one rousing from a troubled dream tries to ban-
ish its features from his mind. It was in vain ;
and, with a sensation of despair, I opened my eyes !
The morning sun was shining with blinding brU-
Kancy, and I was obliged to close them again.
Soon, however, I was able to bear the blaze, and,
painfully lifting myself on my elbow, looked around
me. The sea was thundering with awful force, not
on the sandy shore where I was lying, but over a
reef two hundred yards distant, within which the
water was calm, or only disturbed by the combing
waves, as they broke over the outer barrier. Here
HosleflbyGoOgk'
"el bonoadob." 37
the first and only object which attracted my atten-
tion was our schooner, lying on her beam ends, high
on the sands. The sea, the vessel, the blinding
snn and glowing sand, and a bursting pain in my
head, were too palpable evidences of my misfortune
to be mistaken. It was no dream, but stern and
severe reality, and for the moment I comprehended
the truth. But, when younger, I had read of ship-
wrecks, and listened, with the interest of childhood,
and a feehng half of envy, to the tales of old sailors
who had been cast away on desert ebores. And
now, the first shock over, it was almost with a
sensation of satisfaction, and something of exulta-
tion, that I exclaimed to myself, "shipwrecked at
last t" Eobinson Crusoe, and EeiUy and his com-
panions, recurred to my mind, and my impulse was
to leap up and commence an emulative career.
But the attempt was a failure, and brought me
back to stern reality, in an instant. My limbs were
torn and scarified, and my iace swoUen and stifi".
The utmost I could do was to sit erect.
I now, for the first time, thougkt of my compan-
ions, and despairingly turned my eyes to look for
them. Close by, and nearly behind me, sat Anto-
nio, resting his head on his hands. His clothes
were hanging around him in shreds, his bait was
matted with sand, and his face was black with
dried blood. He attempted to smile, but the grim
muscles could not obey, and he looked at me in si-
lence. I was the first to speak :
Are you much hurt, Antonio ?
HosleflbyGoOgk'
So THE MOSQUITO SHOKE,
" The Lord of Mitnal never lies !" was hie only
reapoiiBe ; and he pointed to the talisman on his
swarthy breast, gleaming like polished silver in the
sun. I remembered the scene of the previous night,
and asked ;—
Are they all dead ?
He shook his head, in sign of ignorance.
"Where are we, Antonio ?
" This is El Roncador !"
And so it proved. "We were on one of the nu-
merous coral keys or cays which stud the sea of the
Antilles, and vrhich are the terror of the mariners
who navigate it. They are usually mere hanks of
sand, elevated a few feet above the water, occasion-
ahy supporting a few bushes, or a scrubby, tempest-
twisted palm or two, and only frecLuented by the
sea-birds for rest and incubation, and by turtles for
laying their eggs. Around them there is always a
reef of coral, built up from the bottom of the sea by
those wonderful architects, the coral insects. This
reef surrounds the cay, at a greater or less distance,
Hke a ring, leaving between it and the island prop-
er a belt of water, of variable depth, and of the
loveliest blue. The reef, which is sometimes scarce-
ly visible above the sea, effectually breaks the force
of the waves ; and if, as it sometimes happens, it
be interrupted so as to leave an opening for the ad-
mission of vessels, the inner belt of water forms a
safe harbor. Except a few of the larger ones, none
of these cays are inhabited, nor are they ever fre-
quented, except by the turtle fishers.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
"el roncadob." 39
It was to the peculiar conformation of these
islands that our safety was owing. Our little vessel
had heen driven, or lifted by the waves, completely
over the outer reef. The shock had torn us from
our hold on the ropes, and we had drifted upon the
comparatively protected sands. The vessel too,
had been carried upon them, and the waves there
not being sufHciently strong to break her in pieces,
she was left high and dry when they subsided.
There was, nevertheless, a broad break in her keel,
caused probably by striking on the reef.
Two of the five human beings who had been on
board of her, the captain and his mate, were drown-
ed. We found their bodies ; — but I am anticipat-
ing my story. When we had recovered ourselves
sufficiently to walk, Antonio and myself took a sur-
vey of our condition. " El Koncador," the Snorer,
is a small cay, three (juarters of a mile long, and at
its widest part not more than four hundred yards
broad,— a mere bank of white sand. At the east-
ern end is an acre or more of scrubby bushes, and
near them three or four low and distorted palm-
trees. Fortunately for us, as will be seen in the
sequel, " El Eoncador" is famous for the number
of its turtles, and is frequented, at the turtle season,
by turtle-fishers from Old Providence, and some-
times from the main land. Among the palm-
trees, to which I have referred, these fishermen had
erected a rude hut of poles, boards, and palm-
branches, which was literally withed and anchored
to the trees, to keep it from being blown away by
HosleflbyGoOgk'
40 THE MoequiTO bhore.
the high winda. It was with a heart fuU of joy
that I saw even this mde evidence of human intelH-
gence, and, accompanied hy Antonio, hastened to it
as rapidly as my hruised hmbs would enahle mo.
We discovered no trace of recent occupation as we
approached, except a kind of furrow in the sand,
like that which some Bea-monster, dragging itself
along, might occasion. It led directly to the hut,
and I followed it, with a feeling half of wonder,
half of apprehension, As we came near, however,
I saw, through the open front, a Hack human fig-
ure crouching within, motionless as a piece of
bronze. Before it, stretched at length, was the
dead body of Captain Ponto, The man was Frank,
of whom I have spoken, as constituting the crew of
the Prince Albert. It was a fearful sight ! The
body of the captain was swollen, the limbs were
stiff and spread apart, the mouth and eyes open,
and conveying an expression of terror and utter de-
spair, which makes me shudder, even now, when I
think of it. Upon his breaet, fastened hy a strong
cord, drawn close at the throat, was the mysterious
gre-gre horn, and the gash in his arm, from which
the poor wretch had drawn the blood for his un-
availing sacrifice, had opened wide its white edges,
as if in mute appeal against his fate.
The negro sailor had drawn the body of the
captain to the hut, and the trail in the sand was
that which it had made. I spoke to him, but he
neither replied nor looked up. His eyes were fixed,
as if by some fascination, on the corpse. Antonio
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A SCENE WITH THE DEAD. 41
exhibited no emotion, but advancing close to the
body lifted the gre^gre horn, eyed it curiously for a
moment, then tossed it contemptuously aside, ex-
claiming :—
" It oould not save him : it is not good !"
The words were scarcely uttered, when the
crouching negro leaped, like a wild beast, at the
Indian's throat ; but Antonio was agile, and evaded
his grasp. The next instant the poor -vtretch had
returned to his seat beside the dead. The negro
could not endure a sneer at the potency of the
gre-gre. Such is the hold of superstition on the
human mind I
I tried to induce the negro to remove the body,
and bury it in the sand ; but he remained silent and
impassible aa a stone. So I returned with Antonio
to the vessel, for the instincts of life had coine
bact, "We found, although the little schooner had
been completely filled, that the water had escaped,
and left the eai^ damaged, but entire. Some of
the provisions had been destroyed, and the re-
mainder was much injured. Nevertheless they
could be used, and for the time being, at least, we
were safe from starvation. My spirits rose with the
discovery, and I almost forgot my injuries in the
joy of the moment. But Antonio betrayed no
signs of interest. He lifted boxes and barrels, and
placed them on the sands, as deliberately as if un-
loading the vessel at Kingston, I knew that it was
not probable the wrecked schooner would suffer
further damage from the sea, protected as it was
HosleflbyGoOgk'
42 'CHE MOSQUITO SHORE.
"by the outer reef, yet I sought to make asaurance
douMy sure, hy removmg what remained of the
provisions to the hut by the palm-trees, Antoaio
suggested nothing, hut impHcitly followed my di-
rections,
"We had got out most of the stores, and carried
them above the reach of the waters on the sands,
when 1 went hack to the hut, with the determina-
tion, by at once assuming a tone of authority, to
have the negro remove and bury the body of
the captain. I was stu^rised to find the hut
empty, and a trail, like that which had attracted
my notice in the morning, leading off in the direc-
tion of the bushes, at some distance from the hut.
I followed it ; and, in the centre of the clump, dis-
covered the negro filling in the sand above the
corpse. He mumbled constantly strange guttural
words, and made many mysterious signs on the
sand, as he proceeded. When the hole was entirely
filled, he laid himself at length above it. I waited
some minutes, but as he remained motionless, re-
turned to the hut. We now commenced carrying
to it, such articles of use as could be easily removed.
But we had not accomplished much when Frank, the
negro, presented himself ; and, approaching me, in-
c[uired meekly what he should do. He was least
injured of the three, and proved most serviceable in
clearing the wreck of all of its useful and moveable
contents.
By night I had bandaged my own wounds and
those of my companions, and over a simple but
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A NIGHT OF DELiaiUM. 43
profuse meal, forgot the horrors of the shipwreck,
and gave myself up, with real zest, to the pleasures
of a cast-away ! I camiot well describe the sensa-
tion of mingled novelty and satisfaction, with which
I looked out from the open hut upon the turbulent
waters, whence we had so narrowly escaped. The
sea still heaved from the effects of the storm, but
the storm itself had passed, and the full tropical
moon looked down calmly upon our island, which
seemed silvery and fairy-Hke beneath its rays.
At first, all these things were c[uietirig in their in-
fluences, but as the night advanced I must have be-
come feverish, for notwithstanding the toils of the
day, and the exhaustion of the previous night, 1
could not sleep. My thoughts were never so active.
All that I had ever seen, heard, or done, flashed
back upon my mind with the vividness of reality.
But, owing to some curious psychical condition,
my mind was only retrospectively active ; I tried in
vain to bring it to a contemplation of the present
or the future. Incidents long forgotten jostled
through ray brain ; the grave mingling strangely
with the gay. Now I laughed outright over some
freak of childhood, which came back with primitive
freshness ; and, next moment, wept again beside the
bed of death, or found myself singing some hitherto
unremembered nursery rhyme. I struggled against
these thronging memories, and tried to ask myself
if they might not be premonitions of delirium. I
felt my own pulse, it beat rapidly ; my own fore-
head, and it seemed to burn. In the vague hope of
HosleflbyGoOgk'
44 THE MOSQUITO 8HOB13.
averting whatever this strange mental activity
might portend, I rose and walked down to the edge
of the water. I rememher distinctly that the shore
seemed hlack with turtles, and that I thougM them
creations of a disordered fancy, and became almost
mad under the mere apprehei^ion that the mad-
ness was upon me.
I might, and undouhtedly would, have become
mad, had it not been for Antonio. He had missed
me trom the hut ; and, in alarm, had come to seek
me. I felt greatly reheved when he told me that
there were real turtles on the shore, and not mon-
sters of the imagination ; and that it was now the
season for laying their eggs, and therefore it could
not be long before the fishers would come for their
annual supply of shells. So I suffered him to lead
me hack to the hut. When I laid down he took
my head between his hands, and pressed it steadily,
but apparently with all his force. The effect was
soothing, for in less than half an hour my ideas had
recovered their equilibrium, and I fell into a slum-
bet, and slept soundly until noon of the following
day.
"When I awoke, Antonio was sitting close by me,
and intently watching every movement. He snjiled
when my eyes met his, and pointing to his forehead
said significantly —
" It is all right now !"
And it was aU right, hut I felt weak and feverish
still. A sound constitution, however, resisted aU
attacks, and it was not many daj's before I was able
HosleflbyGoOgk'
CATCHING TURTLES. 45
to move around our sandy prison, and join Antonio
and Trank in catching turtles ; for, with more fore-
sight than I had supposed to belong to the Indian
and negro character, they were laying in a stock of
shells, against the time when -we should find an op-
poiftunity of escape. Upon the side of our island, to
which I have alluded as covered with bushes, the
water was comparatively shoal, and the bottom
overgrown with a species of sea-graas, which is a
principal article of turtle-food. The surface of the
water, alao, was covered with a variety of small blub-
ber fish, which Antonio called hy the Spanish name
of dedcdcs, or thimbles — a name not inappropriate,
since they closely resembled a lady's thimble both
in shape and size. These, at the spawning or egg-
laying period of the year, constitute another article
of turtle-food, During the night-time the turtles
crawled up on the shore, and the females dug holes
in the sand, each about two feet deep, in which
they deposited from sixty to eighty eggs. These
they contrived to cover so neatly, as to defy the
curiosity of one unacquainted with their habits.
Both Antonio and Frank, however, were familiar
with turtle-craft, and got as many eg^ as we de-
sired. When roasted, they\are really delicious.
The Indians and people of the coasts never destroy
them, being careful to promote the increase of this
valuable sheU-flsh, But on the main land, wild
animals, such for instance as the cougar, frecLuently
come down to the shore, and dig them from their
resting places. Occasionally they capture the turtles
HosleflbyGoOgk'
46 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
themselves, and dragging ttem into the forest, kill
and devour thorn, in epite of their shelly armor.
It was during the night, therefore, that Antonio
ind Prink who kept themaeh es concealed in tho
bushes rushed out ujon the turtles, and with uon
hooks tumtd them on then back«, when they ht-
came powerless and incipable of moving The diy
folbwmg, they diagged them to the most dibtint
p irt of the island, wheie they " shelled ' them , — a
cruel process, which it made my fle'5h creep to
witness Before descnbmg it, however, I must ex
J lam that ilthough the hitits of ill vaneties of
the turtle are much the same, yet their uses are
very different. The large, green turtle is best
known ; it frequently reaches our markets, and its
flesh is esteemed, by epicures, as a great delicacy.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
"SHELLING TUKTLES. 4i
The flesh of the smaller or hawk-bill variety is not
80 good, but its shell is most Taluable, being both
thicker and better-colored. What is called tor-
toise-Bhell is not, as is generally supposed, the bony
eoTCring or shield of the turtle, but only the scales
which cover it. These are thirteen in number,
eight of them flat, and five a little curved. Of the
flat ones fom- are large, being sometimes a foot
long and seven inches broad, semi-transparent,
elegantly variegated with white, red, yellow, and
dark brown clouds, which are fully brought out,
when the shell is prepared and polished. These
laminse, as I have said, constitute the external
coating of the solid or bony part of the shell ; and
a large turtle affords about eight pounds of them,
the plates varying from an eighth to a quarter of an
inch in thickness.
The fishers do not kill the turtles ; did they do
so, they would in a few years estenninate them.
When the turtle is caught, they fasten him, and
cover his back with dry leaves or grass, to which
they set fire. The heat causes the plates to separ-
ate at their joints. A large knife is then carefully
inserted horizontally beneath them, and the lam-
inse Hfted from the hack, care being taken not to
injure the shell by too much heat, nor to force it
off, until the heat has fully prepared it for separa-
tion. Many turtles die under this cruel operation,
but instances arc numerous in which they have
been' caught a second time, with the outer coating
reproduced ; but, in these cases, instead of thirteen
HosleflbyGoOgk'
48 THE MOSQUITO 8H0EB.
pieces, it is a single piece. Ae I have already said,
I could neVer "bring myself to witness this cruelty
more than once, and was glad that the process of
" scaling" was carried on out of sight of the hut.
Had the poor turtles the power of shrieking, they
would have made that harren island a very heU,
with their cries of torture.
"We had heen nearly two weeks on the island,
when we were one morning surprised by a sail on
the edge of the horizon. "We watched it eagerly,
and as it grew more and more distinct, our spirits
roee in proportion. Its approach was slow, but at
noon !Frank declared that
it was a turtle schooner
fiom the island of Oata
rina or Providence, and that it was making for " El
Koncador," And the event proved that he was
right ; for, about the middle of the afternoon,
she had passed an opening through the reef, and
anchored in the still water inside. She had a crew
of five men, in whom it was difficult to say if
white, negro, or Indian blood predominated. They
apnVi. a Y^-qA_ol ^atois , In which Spanish was the
leading element. And although we were unquah-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
sospioioua VISITORS. 49
fiedly glad to see them, yet they were clearly not
pleased to see us. The pair6n,, or captain, no
sooner put his foot on shore, than aifecting to re-
gard us as intruders, he demanded why we were
there ? and if we did not know that this island
was the property of the people of Catarina ? We
replied hy pointing to our shattered schooner, when
the whole party started for it, and unceremoni-
ously hegan to strip it of whatever article of use or
value they could find, leaving us to the pleasant
reflections which such conduct was hkely to suggest.
While this was going on, I returned to the hut,
and found that Antonio and Frank had already re-
moved the shells which they had procured, as also
some other valuables which we had recovered from
the wreck, and had buried them in the sand — a
prudent precaution, which no douht saved us much
trouble. A httle before sundown, our new friends,
having apparently exhausted the plunder, came
■teooping back to the hut, and without ceremony or-
dered us out. I thought, although the physical
force was against us, that a httle determination
might make up for the odds, and firmly rephed that
they might have a part of it, if they wished, but
that we were there, and intended to remain. The
patron hereupon fell into a great passion, and told
his men to bring up the machetes — ugly instru-
ments, half knife, half cleaver. " He would see,"
be said, in his mongrel tongue, " if this white vil-
lain would refuse to obey him." Two of the men
started to fulfill his order, while he stood scowling
HosleflbyGoOgk'
50 THE MOayL^ja'D SHORE.
in tlie doorway. When they had got off a little dis-
tance, I unrolled a blanket in which I had wrapped
our pistols, and giving one to Frank, and another
to Antonio, I took my own revolver, and passed
outside of the liut. The patron fell hack, in evi-
dent alarm.
" Now, amigo," said I, " if you want a fight,
you shall have it ; hut you shall die first !" And I
took dehberate aim at his hreast, at a distance of
less than five yards. " Mother of Mercy !" he ex-
claimed, and glanced round, as if for support, to
his followers. But they had taken to their legs,
without waiting for further proceedings. The
patron attempted to follow, hut I caught him by
the ann, and pressed the cold muzzle of the pistol
to his head. He trembled Kke an aspen, and sunk
upon the ground, crying in most abject tones for
mercy. I released him, but he did not attempt to
stir. The circumstances were favorable for negotia-
tion, and in a few minutes it was arranged that we
should continue to occupy the hut, and that he
should remain with us, while his crew should stay
on board the vessel, when not engaged in catching
turtles. He did not like the exception in his favor ;
but, fearing that he might pull up anchor and leave
us to our fate, I insisted that I could not forego the
pleasure of his company.
The reader may he sure that I had a vigilant eye
on our patron, and at night either Antonio or
Prank kept watch, that he should not give us the
shp. He made one or two attempts, but finding us
HosleflbyGoOgk'
DEPAKTII
prepared, at tlie end of a couple of daya, resigned
himself to his fate. Contenting ourselves with our
previous spoil, we allowed the new comers to pur-
sue the fishery alone. At the end of a week I
discovered, hy various indications, that the season
was nearly over, and, accordingly, mating a care-
less display of my revolver, told the captain that I
thought it would be more agreeable for us to go on
hoard his schooner, than to remain on shore. I
could see that the proposition was not acceptable,
and therefore repeated it, in such a way that
there was no alternative hut assent left. He was a
good deal surprised when he discovered the amount
of shells which we had obtained ; and when I told
him that he should have half of it, for carrying us
to Providence, and the whole if he took us to Blue-
fields, hjs good nature returned. He asked pardon
for his rudeness, and, slapping his breast, pro-
claimed himself " im homhre bueno," who would
take us to the world's end, if I would only put up
my horrible pistol. That pistol, from the very first
day, had had a kind of deadly fascination for the
patron, who watched it, as if momentarily expecting
it to discharge itself at his head. And even now,
when he alluded to it, a perceptible shudder ran
through his frame.
Two days after I had taken up my c[uarters on
board of the little schooner, which, in age and accu-
mulated filth, might have been twin-brother of the
Prince Albert, we set sail from " El Koncador."
As it receded in the distance, it looked very heauti-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
62 THE MOSQUITO MHORE.
ful — an opal in the sea — and I could hardly reahze
that it was nothing more than a reef-girt heap of
desert sands.
Although friendly relations had hee
with the pition, foi the crew seemed nea
I kept mysclt const mtly on my guard against foul
play. AntoniD was hleeplessly vigilant. But the
patron, so fir trom havmg evil designs, appeared
realH to ha\e taken i liLmg to me, and expatiated
upon the delights of Providence, where he repre-
sented himself as being a great man, with much un-
couth eloquence. He promised that I should be
well received, and that he would himself get up a
dance— which he seemed to think the height of
civihty — in my honor.
About noon, on our third day from "El Ronca-
dor," the patron pointed out to mo two light blue
mounds, one sharp and conical, and the other round
and broad, upon the edge of the horizon. They
were the highlands of Providence, Before night,
we had doubled the rocky headland of Santa Cata-
lina, crowned with the ruins of some old Spanish
fortifications, and in half an hour were at anchor,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
ISLAND OP PROVIDENCE. 53
alongside a lai^ New Granadian schooner, in the
small hut sm^ harbor of the island.
This island is almost unknown to the world ; it
has, indeed, very httle to commend it to notice.
Although accounted a single island, it is, in fact,
two islands ; one is six or eight miles long, and
four or five broad, and but moderately elevated ;
while the second, which is a rooty headland, called
Catarina, is separated from the main body by a
narrow but deep channel. The whole belongs ■ to
New Granada, and has about three hundred inhab-
itants, extremely variegated in color, but with a
decided tendency to black This island was a
famous resort of the pirates, during their predom-
inance in these parts, who expelled the Spaniards,
and built defences, by means of which they several
times repelled their assailants.
The productions consist chiefly of fruits and vege-
tables ; a little cotton is also raised, which, with the
tnrtle-shells collected by the inhabitants, constitutes
about the only export of the island. Vessels coming
northward sometimes stop there, for a cargo of
cocoa-nuts and yucas.
As can readily be imagined, the people are very
primitive in their habits, living chiefly in rude,
thatched huts, and leading an indolent, tropical
life, swinging in their hammocks and smoking by
day; and dancing, to the twanging of guitars, by
night. My patron, whom I had suspected of being
something of a braggart, was in reahty a very con-
siderable personage in Providence, and I was re-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
54 THE MOSQUITO SHOBE.
ceived with great favor by the people, to whom he
introduced me as his own " very special friend," I
thought of our first interview on "El Eoncador,"
hut suppressed my inclination to laugh, as well as I
was ahle. True to hia promise, the second night
after our arrival was dedicated to a dance. The
only preparation for it consisted in the production
of a number of lai^e wax candles, resembling
torches in size, and the concoction of several big
vessels of drink, in which Jamaica nun, some fresh
juice of the sugar-cane, and a c^uantity of powdered
peppers were the chief ingredients. The music
consisted of a violin, two guitars and a queer Indian
instrument, resembhng a bow, the string of which,
if the critic will pardon the bull, was a brass wire
drawn tight by means of a perforated gourd, and
beaten with a stick, held by the performer, between
his thumb and forefinger.
I cannot attempt to describe the dance, which,
not over delicate at the outset, became outrageous
as the calabashes of liquor began to circulate.
Both sexes drank and danced, until most could
neither drink nor dance ; and then, it seemed to me,
they all got into a general quarrel, in which the
musicians broke their respective instruments over
each other's heads, then cried, embraced, and were
friends again, I did not wait for the end of the de-
bauch, which soon ceased to be amusing ; but, with
Antonio, stole away, and paddled off to the httle
schooner, where the last sounds that rung in my ears
were the shouts and discordant songs of the revelers.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HO, FOE THE MAIN-LAND ! 55
Providence, it can easily be understood, offered
few attractions to an artist minus the materials for
pursuing liia vocation ; and I was delighted when I
learned that the New Grranadiau schooner was on
the eve of her departure for San Juan de Nicara-
gua. Her captain readily consented to land me at
Bluelields, and our patron magnificently waived all
claims to the tortoise-shells which we had obtained
at "El Eoncador," I had no difiiculty in selling
them to the captain of " El General Bolivar" for the
unexpected sum of three hundred dollars. Fifty
dollars of these I gave to the negro Frank, who was
quite at homo in Providence. I offered to divide
the rest with Antonio, hut he refused to receive any
portion of it, and insisted on accompanying me
without recompense. " You are my brother," said
he, " and I will not leave yon." And here I may
add that, in all my wanderings, he was my constant
companion and firm and faithful friend. His his-
tory, a wild and wonderful tale, I shall some day
lay before the world ; for Antonio was of regal
stock, the son and lieutenant of Chichen Pat, one
of the last and bravest of the chiefs of Yucatan,
who lost his life, under the very walls of Merida, in
the last unsuccessful rising of the aborigines ; and I
blush to add that the fatal bullet, which slew the
hope of the Indians, was sped from the rifle of an
American mercenary !
HosleflbyGoOgk'
^^-^^ixXW.
|HE approach to the coaet, near
Bluefields, holds out no delusions.
The shore is flat, and in all respects tame and un-
interesting, A white line of sand, a green belt of
trees, with no relief escept here and there a soli-
tary palm, and a few hlue hills in the distance, are
the only objects which are offered to the expectant
eyes of the voyager. A nearer approach reveals a
large lagoon, protected by a narrow belt of sand,
covered, on the inner side, with a dense mass of
mangrove trees ; and this is the harbor of Bluc-
flelds. The entrance is narrow, but not difficult, at
the foot of a high, rocky bluff, which completely
commands the passage.
The town, or rather the collection of huts called
by that name, Uea nearly nine miles from the en-
trance. After much tacking, and backing, and
filling, to avoid the innumerahie banks and shal-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
TOWN OF BLUEFIELDS. 57
Iowa in the lagoon, we fiually arrived at the anchor-
age. We had hardly got our anchor down, before
we were hoarded by a very pompous black man,
dressed in a shirt of red check, pantaloons of white
cotton elotli, and a glazed straw hat, with feet in-
nocent of ahoeSj whose office nobody knew, further
than that he ^vas called " Admii'al Eodney," and
was an important functionary in the " MoacLuito
Kingdom," He bustled about, in an extraordinary
way, hut his final purpose seemed narrowed down
to getting a dram, and pocketing a couple of dol-
lars, slily slipped into his hand by the captain, just
before he got over the side. When he had left, we
were told that we could go on shore.
Bluefields is an imperial city, the residence of the
court of the MoscLuito Kingdom, and therefore
merits a particular description. As I have said, it
is a collection of the rudest possible thatched huts.
Among them are two or three framed buildings,
one of which is the residence of a Mr. Bell, an
Englishman, with whom, as I afterwards learned,
resided that world-renowned monarch, " George
William Clarence, King of all the Mo8C[uitos."
The site of the huts is pictureeque, being upon
comparatively high ground, at a point where a con-
siderable stream from the interior enters the lagoon.
There are two villages ; the principal one, or Blue-
fields proper, which is much the largest, containing
perhaps five hundred people ; and " Oarlsruhe," a
kind of dependency, so named by a colony of Prus-
sians who had attempted to establish themselves here,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
58 THE MOBQUITO SHORE.
biit wliose colony, at the time of my visit, had utterly
failed. Out of more than a hundred of the poor
people, who had been induced to come here, but
three or four were left, existing in a state of great
debiUty and distress. Most of their companions
had died, but a few had escaped to the interior,
where they bear convincing witness to the wicked-
ness of attempting to found colonies, from north-
ern chmates, on low, pestiferous shores, under the
tropics.
Among the huts were many palm and plantain
trees, with detached stalks of the papaya, laden
with its large golden fruit. The shore was lined
with canoes, pitpans and dories, hoUowed from the
trunta of trees, all sharp, trim, and graceful in
shape. The natives propel them, with great rapid-
ity, by single broad-bladed paddles, struck vertical-
ly in the water, first on one side, and then on the
other.*
There was a large assemblage on the beach, when
we landed, but I was amazed to find that, with few
exceptions, they were all unmitigated negroa, or
Sambos (i. e. mixed negro and Indian). I had
heard of the Mosquito shore as occupied by the
Mosquito Indians, but soon found that there were
* Tho dory ig nsaaily hollowed ftom a solid pieoa of jnaiK^any or
codar, and is from twenty-fivo to fifty feet in longtli. This kind of
vessel is found ao buoyant and safe, that persons, accustomed to the
management of it, often fearlessly venture out to sea, in weather
when it might be unsafe to trust to Teasels of a lai^er kind.
The pitpan is another variety of canoe, excelling the ^rg in
point of speed. It is of the same matorial, differing only in being
flat-bottomed.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
few, if any, pure Indians on tlie entire coast. The
miserable people who go by that name are, in real-
ity, Sambos, haying a considerable intermixture of
trader blood from Jamaica, with which island the
coast has its principal relations. The arrival of the
traders on the shore is the signal for unrestrained
debauchery, always preluded hy the traders baptiz-
ing, in a manner not remarkable for its delicacy or
gravity, all children born since their last visit, in
whom there is any decided indication of white blood.
The names given on these occasions aro as fantastic
as the ceremony, and great Hherties aro taken with
the cognomens of aU notabilities, living and dead,
from " Pompey" down to " Wellington."
Our first concern m Bluefields was to get a roof
to shelter us, which we finally succeeded in doing,
through the intervention of the captain of the
" Bolivar." That is to say, a dilapidated negro
from Jamaica, hearing that I had just left that de-
lectable island, claimed me as his countryman, and
gave me a little deserted thatched hut, the walls of
which were composed of a Hud of wicker work of
upright canes, interwoven with palm leaves. This
structure bad served him, in the days of bis pros-
perity, aa a kitchen. It was not more than ten feet
Bciuare, but would admit a hammock, hung diago-
nally from one corner to the other. To this abbre-
viated establishment, I moved my few damaged ef-
fects, and in the course of the day, completely do-
mesticated myself. Antonio exliibited the greatest
i and industry in making our quarters com-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
60 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
fortable, and evinced an elagticity and cheerfulness
of manner unkn own before. In tlie evening, he re-
sponded to the latent inquiry of my looks, hy say-
ing, that Ms heart had hecome Hghter since he had
reached the continent, and that his Lord gave prom-
ise of hetter days.
" Look I" he exclaimed, as he lield up his talis-
man before my eyes. It emitted a pale light,
which seemed to come from it in pulsations, or
radiating circles. It may have been fancy, but if
so, I am. not prepared to say that all which we deem
real is not a dream and a delusion 1
My host was a man of more pretensions than
Captain Ponto, but otherwise very much of the
same order of African architecture. From his
cautious eilenco, on the subject of hia arrival on the
coast, I inferred that he had been brought out as a
slave, some thirty-five or forty years ago, when several
planters Irom Jamaica attempted to estabHsh them-
selves here. However that may have been, he
now called himself a "merchant," and appeared
proud of a Httle coUeetion of " oenaburgs," a few
red bandanna handkerchiefs, flanked by a dingy
cask of what the Yankees would call "the rale
critter," which occupied one comer of his house or
rather hut. He brooded over these with unremit-
ting care, although I believe I was his only cus-
tomer, (to the extent of a few fish hooks), during my
stay in Bluefields. He called himself Hodgson,
(the name, as I afterwards learned, of one of the
old British superintendents,) and based his hopes
HosleflbyGoOgk'
MOSQUITO BOYALTT. 61
of family immortality upon a son, whom he respect-
fully called Mister James Hodgson, and who was,
he said, principal counselor to the king. This in-
formation, commimicated to me within two hours
after my arrival, led me to beUeve myself in the
line of favorahle presentation at court. But I
found out afterwards, that this promising scion of
the house of Hodgson was " under a cloud," and had
lost the sunshine of imperial favor, in (
of having made some most indiscreet <
when taken a prisoner, a few years before, by the
Nicaraguans. However, I was not destined to pine
away my days in devising plans to obtain an intro-
duction to his Mosc[uito Majesty. For, rising early
on the morning subsequent to my arrival, I start-
ed out to see the sights of Bluefields, Follow-
ing a broad path, leading to a grove of cocoa-nut
trees, which shadowed over the river, tall and trim,
I met a white man, of thin and serious visage, who
eyed me curiously for a moment, bowed slightly,
and passed on in silence. The distant air of an
Englishman, on meeting an American, is general-
ly reciprocated by e(iuaUy frigid formality. So I
stared coldly, bowed stiffly, and also passed on, I
smiled to think what a deal of affectation had been
wasted on both sides, for it would have been uji-
natural if two white men were not glad to see each
others' faces in a land of ebony like this. So I in-
voluntarily turned half round, just in time to witness
a similar evolution on the part of my thin friend. It
was evident that his thoughts were but reflection*
HosleflbyGoOgk'
62 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
of my own, and being the younger of the two, I re-
traced my steps, and approached him witli a laugh-
ing " Grood morning I" He responded to my saluta-
tion with an equally pregnant " G-ood morning," at
the same time raising hia hand to his ear, in token
of heing hard of bearing. Conversation opened,
and I at once found I was in the presence of a man
of superior education, large experience, and alto-
gether out of place in the Mosquito metropolis.
After a long walk, in which we passed a rough
board structure, surmounted by a stumpy pole,
supporting a small flag — a sort of hybrid between
the Union Jack and tlie "Stars and Stripes" —
called by Mr. Bell the " House of Justice," I ac-
cepted his invitation to accompany him home to
coffee.
Hie house was a plain building of rough boai'ds,
■with several small rooms, all opening into the prin-
cipal apartment, in which I was invited to sit down,
A sleepy-looking black girl, with an enormous shock
of frizzled hair, was sweeping the floor, in a languid,
mechanical way, calculated to superinduce yawning,
even after a brisk morning walk. The partitions
were hung with many prints, in which " Her Most
Gracious Majesty" appeared in all the multiform
glory of steel, lithograph, and chromotint. A gun
or two, a table in the comer, supporting a confused
collection of books and papers, with some ropes,
boots, and iron grapnels beneath, a few chairs, a
Yankee clock, and a table, completed the furniture
and decoration of the room, I am thus particular
HosleflbyGoOgk'
MOSQUITO ROYALTY. 63
in this inveotory, for reasons which will afterward
appear.
At a word from Mr. Bell, the torpid black girl
disappeared for a few moments, and then came
back with some cups and a pot of coffee. I ob-
served that theie were three cups, and that my host
filled them aU, which I thought a little eingular,
since there were but two of us. A faint, momen-
tary Buepieion crossed my mind, that the female
polypus stood in some such relation to my host as
to warrant her in honoring us with her company.
But, instead of doing so, she unceremoniously
pushed open a door in the comer, and curtly ejacu-
lated to some unseen occupant, " Get up \" There
was a kind of querulous response, and directly a
thumping and muttering, as of some person who
regarded himself as unreasonably disturbed. Mean-
while we had each finished our first cup of coffee,
and were proceeding with a second, when the door
in the corner opened, and a black boy, or what an
American would be apt to call, a " young darkey,"
apparently nineteen or twenty years old, shuffled up
to the table. He wore only a shirt, unbuttoned
at the throat, and cotton pantaloons, scarcely but-
toned at all. He nodded to my entertainer with a
drawling " Momin', sir !" and sat down to the third
cup of coffee. My host seemed to take no notice of
him, and we continued our conversation. Soon
after, the sloven youth got up, took his hat, and
slowly walked down the path to the river, where I
afterward saw Mm washing his face in the stream.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
64 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
As I was about leaving, Mr. Bell kindly volun-
teered his services to me, in any way they might bo
made available, I thanked Mm, and suggested
that, having no object to accomplish except to
" scare up" adventures and seek out novel sights, I
should be obliged to him for an introduction to the
king, at some future day, after Antonio should have
succeeded in rejuvenating my suit of ceremony, now
rather rusty from saturation with salt water. He
smiled faintly, and said, as for that matter, there
need be no delay ; and, stepping to the door,
shouted to the black youth by the river, and beck-
oned to him to come up the bank. The youth put
on his hat hurriedly, and obeyed. "Perhaps you
are not aware that is the king ?" observed my
host, with a contemptuous smile. I made no reply,
as the youth was at hand. Ho took off his hat
respectfully, but there was no introduction in the
case, beyond the c[uiet observation, "George, this
gentleman has come to see you ; sit down 1"
I soon saw who was the real " king" in Blueflelds.
" Greoi^e," I think, had also a notion of his own on
the subject, but was kept in such strict subordina-
tion that he never manifested it by words. I found
him shy, but not without the elements of an ordi-
nary English education, which he had received in
England. He is nothing more or less than a negro,
with hardly a perceptible trace of Indian blood, and
would pass at the South for "a likely young fellow,
worth twelve hundred doUars as a body-servant I"
The second day after my arrival was Sunday, and
HosleflbyGoOgk'
GEOG AND I'HE flOSPKL. 65
in the forenoon, Mr. Bell read the service of the
English Church, in the " House of Justice." There
were perhaps a dozen persons present, among them
the king, who was now dressed plainly and becom-
ingly, and who conducted himself with entire pro-
priety, I could not see that he was treated with
any special consideration ; while Mr. Bell received
marked deference.
It is a curious fact that although the Enghsh
have had relations, more or less intimate, with this
shore, ever since the pirates made it their retreat,
during the glorious days of the buccaneers, they
have never introduced the GrospeL The religion of
the "kingdom" was declared by the late king, in
his will, to be " the Established Church of Eng-
land," but the Established Church has never taken
steps to bring the natives within its aristocratic
fold. Several dissenting missionaries have made
attempts to settle on the coast, but as the British
ofBcers and agents never favored them, they have
met with no success. Besides, the Sambos are
strongly attached to heathenish rites, half African
and half Indian, in which what they call "hig
drunJc^' is not the least remarkable feature. Some
years ago a missionary, named PiUey, arrived at
Sandy Bay, for the purpose of reclaiming the "lost
sheep," A house was found for him, and he com-
menced preaching, and for a few Sundays enticed
some of the leading Sambos to hear him, by giving
them each a glass of grog. At length, one Sabbath
afternoon, a considerable number of the natives
HosleflbyGoOgk'
66, THE MOSQUITO SHORE,
attended to bear the stranger talk, and to receive
the usual spiritual consolation. But the demijohn
of the worthy minister had been exhausted. He
nevertheless sought to compensate for the deficiency
by a more vehement display of eloc[uence, and for a
time fiattered himself that he was producing a last-
ing impression. His discourse, however, was eud-
denly interrupted by one of the chiefs, who rose and
indignantly exclaimed, "All preach — no grog — no
good 1" and with a responsive " No good !" the
audience followed him, as he stalked away, leaving
the astonished preacher to finish his discourse to
two or three Englishmen present.
In Bluefields the natives are kept in more re-
straint than elsewhere on the coast ; hut even here
it has been found impossible to suppress their tra-
ditional practices, especially when connected with
their superstitions. My venerable friend Hodgson,
after " service," informed me that a funeral was to
take place, at a small settlement, a few miles up
the river, and volunteered to escort me thither in
his pitpan, if Antonio would undertake to do the
paddling. The si^gcstion was very acceptable,
and after a very frugal dinner, on roast fish and
boiled plantains, we set out. But we were not
alone ; we found dozens of pitpans starting for the
same destination, filled with men and women. It is
impossible to imagine a more picturesque spectacle
than these light and graceful boats, with occupants
dressed in the brightest colors, darting over the
placid waters of the river, now gay in the sun-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
COINt TO \ tUNEK^L tl7
light, and inon sobered m tlie fehodowa of the trees
whith fctudded the binks Theie wab a keen
Htiife among the loweis, whu, imid shouts and
^creet-hea, m which both men and wjmen jjmod
exerted themselves to the utmo'*t E\ en Antomo
smiled \t the scene,
but it WIS halt cnn
temptuoufely for lie
maintained, m n.
spect to these mon
grels, the ref.er\e of
con'icions supenoiitj
Less than an hour brought us in view of a little
collection of huts, grouped on the shore, under the
shadow of a cluster of palm-trees, which, from a
distance, presented a picture of entrancing beauty.
A large group of natives had already collected on
the shore, and, as we came near, we heard the
monotonous beating of the native drum, or tum-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
turn, relieved "by an occasional low, deep blast on a
lai^e hollow pipe, which sounded more hke the dis-
tant bellowing of an ox than any thing else I ever
heard. In the pauses, we distinguished suppressed
wails, which continued for a minute perhaps, and
were then followed by the monotonous drum and
droning pipe. The descriptions of similar scenes in
Central Africa, given to us by Olapperton and
Mungo Park, recurred to me with wonderful vivid-
ness, and left the impression that the ceremonies
going on were rather African than American in
their origin.
On advancing to the huts, and the centre of the
group, I found a small pitpan cut in half, in one
part of which, wrapped in cotton cloth, was the
dead body of a man of middle ago, much emaciat-
ed, and horribly disfigured by what is called the
hvlpis, a species of syphihtic leprosy, which is al-
most universal on the coast, and which, with the
aid of rum, has already reduced the population to
one half what it was twenty years ago. This dis-
gusting disease is held in such tenor by the Indians
of the interior, that they have prohibited aU sexual
relations, between their people and the Sambos of
the coast, under the penalty of death.
Around the pitpan were stationed a number of
women, with palm tranches, to keep off the flies,
which swarmed around the already festering corpse.
Their frizzled hair started from their heads like the
snakes on the brow of the fabled Gorgon, and they
swayed their bodies to and fro, keeping a kind of
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HosleflbyGoOgk'
byGoogle
A MOSQUITO BU It lAL. 71
tread-mill step to the measure ol' the doleful tum-
tum. With the exception of the men who beat the
drum and hlew the pipe, these women appeared to
be the only persons at all interested in the pro-
ceedings. The rest were standing in groups, or
squatted at the roots of the palm-trees, I was be-
gianing to get tired of the performance, when, with
a suddenness which startled even the women around
the corpse, four men, entirely naked excepting a
cloth wrapped round their loins, and daubed over
with variously-colored clays, rushed from the inte-
rior of one of the huts, and hastily fastening a
piece of rope to the hah" of the pitpan containing
the corpse, dashed away towards the woods, drag-
ging it after them, lite a sledge. The women with
the Gorgon heads, and the men with the drum and
trumpet, followed them on the run, each keeping
time on his respective instrument. The spectators
all hurried after, in a confused mass, while a big
negro, catching up the remaining half of the pit-
pan, placed it on his head, and trotted behind the
crowd.
The men bearing the corpse entered the woods,
and the mass of the spectators, jostling each other
in the narrow path, kept up the same rapid pace.
At the distance of perhaps two hundred yards,
there was an open place, covered with low, dank,
tangled underbush, still wet from the rain of the
preceding night, which, although unmarked by any
sign, I took to be the burial place. When I came
up, the half of the pitpan containing the body had
HosleflbyGoOgk'
72 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
been put in a ehallow trench. The other half was
then inverted over it. The Gorgon-headed women
threw in their palm-hranches, and the painted
negroes rapidly filled in the earth. While this was
going on, some men were collecting sticks and
palm-branches, with which a little hut was hastily
built over the grave. In this was placed an earthen
vessel, filled with water. The turtle-spear of the
dead man was stuck deep in the ground at his head,
and a fantastic fellow, with an old mnsket, dis-
charged three or four rounds over the spot.
This done, the entire crowd started back in the
same manner it had come. No sooner, however,
did the painted men teach the village, than, seizing
some heavy mocAeies, they commenced cutting down
the palm-trees which stood around the hut that
had been occupied by the dead Samho. It was
done silently, in the most hasty manner, and when
finished, they ran down to the river, and plunged
out of sight in the water — a kind of lustration or
purifying rite. They remained in the water a few
moments, then hurried back to the hut from which
they had issued, and disappeared.
This savage and apparently unmeaning ceremony
was explained to me by Hodgson, as follows :
Death is supposed by the Sambos to result from
the influences of a demon, called Wulasha, who,
ogre-like, feeds upon the bodies of the dead. To
rescue the corpse from this fate, it is necessary to
lull the demon to sleep, and then steal away the
body and bury it, after which it is safe. To this
HosleflbyGoOgk'
MOSQUITO HUPERyTITiON S, 73
end they tring in the aid of the droway drum and
droning pipe, and the women go through a slow
and soothing dance. Meanwhile, in the recesses of
some hut, whore they eaimot be seen hy Wulasha,
a certain number of men carefully disguise them-
selves, so that they may not afterwards he recog-
nized and tormented ; and when the demon is sup-
posed to have heen lulled to sleep, they seize the
moment to hury the body. I could not ascertain
any reason for cutting down the palm-trees, except
that it had always heen practiced hy their ances-
tors. As the palm-tree is of slow growth, it has re-
sulted, from this custom, that they have nearly dis-
appeared from some parts of the coast. I could
not learn that it was the habit to plant a cocoa-nut
tree upon the hirth of a child, as in some parts of
Africa, where the tree receives a common name with
the infant, and the annual rings on its trunk mark
his age.
If the water disappears from the earthen vessel
placed on the grave, — which, as the ware is porous,
it seldom fails to do in the course of a few days, — it
is taken as evidence that it has been consumed by
the dead man, and that he has escaped the maw of
Wulasha. This ascertained, preparations are at
once made for what is called a Seekroe, or Feast of
the Dead — an orgie which I afterwards witnessed
higher up the coast, and which will he described in
due course.
The negroes brought originally from Jamaica, as
also most of their descendants, hold these barbar-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
74 THE MOSQUITO SHOKE.
OTIS practices in contempt, and liury their dead, aa
they say, " English-gentleman fashion." But while
these practices are discountenanced and prohihited
in Bluefields proper, they are, nevertheless, univer-
sal elsewhere on the Mosquito Shore,
I cannot omit mentioning here, that I paid a
visit both to the estahlishment and the huiial-place
of the ill-fated Prussian colony. Many of the
houses, now rotting down, had been brought out
from Europe, and all around them were wheels of
carts falling in pieces, hameasea dropping apart,
and plows and instruments of cultivation rusting
away, or slowly burying themselves in the earth.
They told a sad story of ignorance on the part of
the projectors of the establishment, and of the dis-
appointments and sufferings of their victims. The
folly of attempting to plant an agricultural colony,
from the north of Europe, on low, murky, tropical
shores, is inconceivable. Again and again the at-
tempt has been made, on this coast, and as often it
has terminated in disaster and death. It was tried
by the French at Tehuantepec and Cape Grracias ;
by the English at Vera Paz and Black River ; and
by the Belgians and Prussians at Santo Tomas and
Bluofields. In no instance did these establishments
survive a second year, nor in a single instance did a
tenth of the poor colonists escape the grave. The
Prussians at Bluefields suffered fearfully. At one
time, within four months after their arrival, out of
more than a hundred, there were not enough retain-
ing their health to bury the dead, much less to
HosleflbyGoOgk'
AN ILL-FATED COLONY. 75
attend to the aicb. The natiyea, jealous of the
strangers, ■would ueither assist nor come near them,
and absolutely refused to seR them the scanty food
requisite for their suhsistence. This feeling was
rather encouraged than otherwise, by the traders on
the coast, who desired to retain the monopoly of
trade, as they had always done a preponderance of
influence among the natives. They procured the
revocation of the grant which had been made to
the Messrs. Shepherd of San Juan, from whom the
Prussians had purchased a doubtful title, and
threatened the stricken strangers with forcible ex-
pulsion. Death, however, soon reheved them from
taking overt measures ; and, at the time of my
visit, two or three haggard wretches, whose languid
blue eyes and flaxen hair -contrasted painfully with
the blotched visages of the brutal Sambos, were all
that remained of the unfortunate Pmssian colony.
The burying place was a small opening in the
bush, where rank vines sweltered over the sunken
graves, a spot reeking with miasmatic damps, from
which I retreated with a shudder. I could wish no
worse punishment to the originators of that fatal,
not to say, criminal enterprise, than that they
should stand there, as 1 stood, that Conscience
might hiss in their ears, " Behold tliy work !"
HosleflbyGoOgk'
%«^m\H
"\T \DE roa ly inquinea in Bh e
JL I n o ler to decide on my fu
^ e movements to all of whi h Mr
Bell gi^e me most ntelhgent an
Bwers At lirst I } 0} ose 1 to ascen I the Blueflel Is
nver which tikes ts use m the mounta nouy d stnct
of Segovia in Nicaragua, and which ia reported to he
nav^ble, foT canoee, to within a short distance of
the great lakes of that State, from which it is only
separated hy a narrow range of mountains. Upon
its hanks dwell several tribes of pure Indians, the
Oookras, now but few in number, and the Eamas,
a large and docile tribe. Several of the latter visit-
ed Blueflelds while I was there, bringing down
dories and pitpans rudely blocked out, which are
afterwards finished by persons expert in that art.
They generally speak Spanish, but I could not learn
from them that their country was in any respect rc-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
le, or that it held out any prospect of com-
pensation for a visit, unless it were an indefinite
amount of hunger and hard work. So, although I
had purchased a canoe, and made other prepara-
tions for ascending the river, I determined to pro-
ceed northward along the coast, and, embarldng in
some turthng vessel from Cape Graeias, proceed to
San Juan, and penetrate into the interior by the
river of the same name.
This, I ascertained, was all the more easy to ac-
complish, since the whole Mosquito shore is lined
with lagoons, only separated from the sea hy narrow
stripe of land, and so connected with each other as
to afibrd an interior navigation, for canoes, from
Bluefields to Graeias. So, procuring the additional
services of a young Poyas or Paya Indian, who had
been left from a trading schooner, I hade "His
Mosquito Majesty" and his governor good-hy, took
an affectionate farewell of old Hodgson, and, with
Antonio, sailed away to the northern extremity of
the lagoon, having spent exactly a week in Blue-
fields. ■
It was a bright morning, and our little sail, filled
with the fresh sea-breeze, carried us gayly through
the water. Antonio carefully steered the boat, and
my Foyer hoy sat, fike a bronze figure-head, in the
bow, while I reclined in the centre, luxuriously
smoking a c^ar. The white herons flapped lazily
around us, and flocks of screaming curlews whirled
rapidly over our heads, I could scarcely compre-
hend the novel reality of my position. The Robin-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
78 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
Bon CruBoe-ish feeling of my youth, came "back in
all of its fresimeaa ; I had my own boat, and for
companions a descendant of an aboriginal prince,
the possessor of a mysterious talisman, devotedly
attached to me, half friend, half protector, and a
second strange Indian, from some unknown interior,
silent as the unwilling genii whom the powerful
spell of Solyman kept in obedience to the weird
necromancers of the East. It was a strange posi-
tion and fellowship for one who, scarcely three
]nonths before, had carefully cultivated the friendly
interest of Mr. Sly, with sinister designs on the
plethoric treasury of the Art Union, in New York I
I gave myself up to the delicious novelty, and
that sense of absolute independence which only a
complete separation from the moving world can in-
spire, and passed the entire day in a trance of
dreamy dehght, I eubsec[uently passed many sim-
ilar days, but this stands out in the long perspec-
tive, as one of unalloyed happiness. " 'Twaa worth
ten years of common life," and neither age nor suf-
fering can effiice its bright impress from the crowd-
ed tablet of my memory 1
It was about four o'clock in the afternoon, when
we reached the northern extremity of the lagoon,
at a place called the Haulover, from the circum-
stance that, to avoid going outside in the open sea,
it is customary for the natives to drag their canoes
across the narrow neck of sand which separates
Bluefields from the next northern or Pearl Kay
Lagoon. Occasionally, after long and heavy winds
HosleflbyGoOgk'
LIFE OS THE LAGOONS. 79
from the eastward, the waters are forced into the
lagoons, 80 as to overflow the belt of land which
divides them, when the navigation is uninter-
rupted.
In order to be able to renew our voyage early
next morning, our few effects and 8toree were carried
across the portage, over which our united strength
was sufficient to drag the dory, without difficulty.
All this was done with prompt alacrity on the part
of Antonio and the Poyer boy, who would not allow
me to exert myself in the sHghtesfc. The transit
was effected in less than an hour, and then we pro-
ceeded to make our camp for the night, on the
beach. Our little saU, supported over the canoe by
poles, answered the purpose of a tent. And as for
food, without going fifty yards from our fire, I shot
half a dozen curlews, which, when broiled, are cer-
tainly a passable bird. Meanwhile, the Poyer boy,
carefully wading in the lagoon, with a light spear,
had struck several fish, of varieties known as snook
and ffrowper ; and Antonio had collected a bag full
of oysters, of which there appeared to be vast
banks, covered only by a foot or two of water.
They were not pearl oysters, as might be inferred
from the name of the lagoon, but similar to those
found on our own shores, except smaller, and grow-
ing in clusters of ten or a dozen each. Eaten with
that relishing sauce, known among travelers as
■'hunger aauce," I found them something more
than excellent,— they were delicious.
While I opened oysters, by way of helping my-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
80 THB MOSQUITO SHORE.
self to my princely first courso, the Indians busied
themselves with the fleh and birds. I watched their
proceedings with no little interest, and as their
mode of baking fish has never been set forth in the
■cookery books, I give it for the benefit of the gas-
tronomic world in general, which, I take it, is not
above learning a good thing, even from a Poyer
Indian boy. A hole having been dug in the sand,
it was filled with dry branches, which were set on
fire. In a few minutes the fire subsided in a bed of
glowing coals. The largest of the fish, a grouper,
weighing perhaps five pounds, had been cleaned
and stuffed with pieces of the smaller fish, a few
oysters, some sliced plantains, and some slips of the
bark of the pimento or pepper-tree. Duly sprink-
led with salt, it was carefully wrapped in the broad
groen leaves of the plantain, and the coals raked
open, put in the centre of the glowing embers, with
which it was rapidly covered. Half an hour after-
ward, by which time I began to believe it had been
reduced to ashes, the bed was raked open again and
the fish taken out. The outer leaves of the wrapper
were burned, but the inner folds were entire, and
when they were unrolled, lite the cerements of a
mummy, they revealed the fish, " cooked to a
charm," and preserving all the rich juices absorbed
in the flesh, which would have been earned off by
the heat, in the ordinary modes of cooking. I after-
ward adopted the same process with nearly every
variety of large game, and found it, like patent
medicines, of " universal application." Commend
HosleflbyGoOgk'
NIGHT UNDER THE TKOPKJK 81
me to a young ware& " done brown" in lilie manner,
aa a dish fit for a king. But of that anon.
By and hy the night came on, hut not as it comes
in our northern latitudes. Night, under the tropics,
falls like a curtain. The sun goes down ■with a
glow, intense, hut hrief. There are no soft and lin-
gering twilight adieus, and stars lighting up one by
one. They come, a laughing group, trooping over
the skies, like hright-eyed children relieved from
school. Befleeted in the lagoon, they seemed to
chase each other in amorous play, printing spark-
ling kisses on each other's luminous lips. The low
shores, lined with the heavy-foliaged mangroves,
looked like a frame of massive, antic[ue carving,
around the vast mirror of the lagoon, across whose
surface streamed a silvery shaft of light from the
evening star, palpitating like a young bride, low in
the horizon. Then there were whispered " voices
of the night," the drowsy winds talking themselves
to sleep among the trees, and the little ripples of the
lagoon pattering with liquid feet along the sandy
shore. The distant monotonous beatings of the
sea, and an occasional sullen plunge of some ma-
rine animal, which served to open momentarily the
eyelids drooping in slumbrous sympathy with the
scene — ^these were the elements which entranced
me during the long, delicious hours of my first
evening, alone with Nature, on the Mosquito
Shore !
My dreams that night so blended themselves
with the reality, that I could not now separate
HosleflbyGoOgk'
sa THE MOtSQUITO SHORE.
them if I would, and to this day I hardly know if
I slept at all. So completely did my soul go out,
and melt, and harmonize itself with the scene, that
I began to comprehend the Oriental doctrine of
emanations and absorptions, which teaches that, as
the body of man springs from the earth, and after
a brief space, mingles again with it ; so his soul,
part of the Ureat Spirit of the Universe, flutters
away like a dove from its nest, only to return, after
a weary flight, to fold its wings and once more melt
away in Nature's immortal heart, and uncreated and
Before the dawn of day, the ever-watchful Anto-
nio had prepared the indispensable cup of coffee,
which is the tropical specific against the malignant
night-damps ; and the first rays of the sun shot
over the trees only to fall on our sail, bellying with
the fresh and invigorating sea-broeze. We laid our
course for the mouth of a river called Wawashaan
ihwas or wass, in the dialect of the interior, signi-
fying water), which enters the lagoon, about twenty
miles to the northward of the Haulover. Here we
were told there was a settlement, which I deter-
mined to visit. As the day advanced, the breeze
subsided, and we made slow progress. So we pad-
dled to the shore of one of the numerous islands in
the lagoon, to avoid the hot sun and await the
freshening of the breeze in the afternoon. The
island on which we landed appeared to he higher
than any of the others, and was moreover rendered
doubly attractive by a number of tail cocoa-nut
HosleflbyGoOgk'
CLIMBING AFTEB COCOAS. 83
palmB, that clustered near the beach. We ran our
boat ashore in a little cove, where there were traces
of fires, and other indications that it was a favor-
ite stopping-place with the natives. A narrow trail
led inward to the palm-trees. Leaving the Foyer
boy with the canoe, Antonio and myself followed
the blind path, and soon came to an open space
covered with plantain-trees, now much choked with
bushes, hut heavily laden with fruit. The palms,
too, were clustering with nuts, of which we could
not, of course, neglect to take in a supply. Near
the trees we found the foundations of a house, after
the European plan, and, not far from it, one or two
rough grave-stones, on which inscriptions had been,
rudely traced ; but they were now too much oblit-
erated to be read. I could only make out the figure
of a cross on one of them, and the name " San
Andres," which is an island off the coast, where it is
probable the occupant of this lonely grave was horn.
To obtain the cocoa-nuts, which otherwise could
only have been got at by cutting down and destroy-
ing the trees, Antonio prepared to climb after
them. He had brought a kind of sack of coarse
netting, which he tied about his neck. He next
cut a long section of one of the numerous tough
vines which abound in the tropics, with which he
commenced braiding a large hoop around one of the
trees. After this was done, he slipped it over his
head and down to his waist, gave it a few trials of
strength, and then began his ascent, literally walk-
ing up the tree. It was a curious feat, and worth a
HosleflbyGoOgk'
deecription. Leaning back in this hoop, he planted
his feet firmly against the trunk, clinging to which,
first with one hand, and
then with the other, he
worked up the hoop, tak-
ing a step with every up-
ward movement. Nothing
loth to exhibit his skill, in
a minute he was sixty feet
from the ground, leaning
hack securely in his hoop,
n 1 fill n^ 1 1 sick w th the
n t'^ This do t he swing
h s load o e 1 a si oulders
gras] ed the tree m his
aim let the hoop fall and
. raj Uy to the gioiml
The wh le occ ij ed less
t me than I ha e con me 1
n wntm„ an ic
count of it
Loaded with nuts
plantams and a
species of anona
called lour op we
returned to tl e
I oat where the w
tei witl which the
green c coa nuts are
filled, tempered with a little Jamaica rum, pma
d maiar los animalicos, "to kill the aniraalcu-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE M A N G J( O V E .
85
Iffi," as tho Spanish eay, made a cooling and re-
freshing beverage.
In the afternoon we again emharked, and before
dark reached the mouth of the Wawashaan, which
looked like a narrow arm of the lagoon, but which,
we found, when we entered, had considerable cur-
rent, rendering necessary a brisk use of our paddles.
rii banks near the lagoon,
wcie low, and the ground back
' of them appaiently swampy,
MANSBOYE SWAMP and dousely covercd with man-
cpove tieet This tree is uniTeraal on the MoscLUito
coast lining the shoes of the lagoons and livers,
as high up as the salt water reaches. It is unlike
any other tree in the world. Peculiar to lands over-
flowed by the tides, its trunk starts at a height of
from four to e^ht feet from the ground, supported
HosleflbyGoOgk'
86 THE MOSQUITO SHORK.
by a radiating eeiies of emooth, reddish-brown roots,
for all the world like the prongs of an inverted can-
delabrum. These roots interlock with each other in
such a manner that it is utterly impossible to pene-
trate between them, except by laboriously cutting
one's way. And even then an active man would
hardly be able to advance twenty feet in a day. The
trunk is generally taU and straight, the branches
numerous, but not long, and the leaves large and
thick ; on the upper surface of a dark, glistening,
unfading green, while below, of the downy, whitish
tint of the poplar-leaf. Lining the shore in dense
masses, the play of light on the leaves, as they are
turned upward by the wind, has the glad, billowy
effect of a field of waving grain. The timber of the
mangrove is sodden and heavy, and of no great
utihty ; but its bark is astringent, and excellent for
tanning. Its manner of propagation is remarkable.
The seed Consists of a long bean-like stem, about
the length and shape of a dipped caudle, but thin-
ner. It hangs from the upper limbs in thousands,
and, when perfect, drops, point downward, erect in
the mud, where it speedily takes root, and shoots
up to tangle still more the already tangled man-
grove-swamp. Myriads of small oysters, called the
mangrove-oysters, cling to the roots, among vi'hich
active little crabs find shelter from the pursuit of
their hereditary enemies, the long-legged and
sharp-billed cranes, who have a prodigious hank-
ering after tender and infantile shell-fish.
The Mosquito settlement is some miles up the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
SOLDIEE-CRABS, 87
river, and we were unable to reach it before dark; so,
on arriving at a spotwhere the ground became higher,
and an open space appeared on the bank, ive came
to a halt for the night. We had this time no flsh
for supper, but, instead, a couple of quams, a spe-
cies of small turkey, which is not a handsome bird,
but, nevertheless, delicate food. Many of these
flew down to the shore, as night came on, selecting
the tops of the highest, overhanging trees for their
roosting-plaees, and offering fine marks for my
faithful double-barreled gun.
The mosc[uitoe8 proving rather troublesome at
the edge of the water, I abandoned the canoe, and
spreading my blanket on the most elevated portion
of the bank, near the fire, was soon asloep. Before
midnight, however, I was roused by the sensation
of innumerable objects, with sharp claws and cold
bodies, crawling over me. I leaped up in alarm,
and hastily shook off the invaders. I heard a crack-
hng, rustling noise, as of rain on dry leaves, all
around me, and by the dim light I saw that the
ground was alive with crawhng things, moving in
an unbroken column toward the river. I felt them
in the pockets of my coat, and hanging to my
skirts. My nocturnal interview with the turtles at
"El Eoneador" recurred to me, and Coleridge's
f lines^
" The very sea did rot-
Oli Christ, that this should tc ! —
And Biimy things did Crawl with If
fpon the slimy seal"
HosieflbyGoOgk'
88 THE MOWQUITO SHORE.
Half fearing that it might fee my own disordered
fancy, I shouted to Antonio, who, qmck as light, was
at my side. He stirred up the fire, and laughed
outright ! We had been invaded hy an army of
soldier-crabs, moving down from the high back-
grounds. Antonio had selected his bed for the
night nearest the river, and the fire, dividing the
host, had protected him, while it had turned a double
column upon me. I could not myself help laughing
at the incident, which certainly had the quality
of novelty. I watched the moving legion for an
hour, but there was no perceptible decrease in the
numbers. So I laid down again by the side of An-
tonio, and slept quietly until morning, when there
were no more crabs to be seen, nor a trace of them,
except that the ground had been minutely punctured
all over, by their sharp, multitudinous claws.
It was rather late when we started up the river.
We had not proceeded far before we came to an
open space, where there were some rude huts, with
canoes drawn up on the bank, in front. A few
men, nearly naked, shouted at us as we passed, in-
quiring, in broken English, what we had to sell,
evidently thinking that the white man could have
no purpose there unless to trade. We passed
other huts at intervals, which, however, had no
signs of cultivation around them, except a few
palm and plantain-trees, and an occasional small
patch of yucas. The mangroves had now disap-
peared, and the banks began to look inviting, cov-
ered, as they were, with large trees, including the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
BIVEB WAWA8HAAN. 89
caoba, or mahogany, and the gigantic ceiba, all
loaded down with vines. Thousands of parrots
passed over, with their peculiar short, heavy flut-
ter, and loud, querulous note. In the early morn-
ing, and toward night, they heep up the most ve-
hement chattering, all talking and none listening,
after the manner of a Woman's Rights Convention.
There were also gaudy macaws, which floated past
like fragmeota of a rainbow. In common with the
parrots, they always go in pairs, and when one is
found alone, he is always silent and sad, and acts
as if he were a lone widower, and meditated sui-
cide.
On the occasional sandy reaches, we saw groups
of the Boseate Spoonbills, with their splendid plum-
age. The whole body is rose-col-
ored ; but the wings, toward the
shoulders, and the feathers around
the base of the neck, are of a
bright scarlet, deepening to blood-
red. But they form no exception
to the law of compensations — in
mechanics, called equiHbrium, and
in mathematics equations, since, '"^™ spoonbill."
while beautiful in plumage, they are sinfully i^ly
in shape. And I could not help fancying, when I
saw. them standing silent and melancholy on saags,
contemplating themselves in the water, that, as with
some other kinds of birds, their brilliant colors gave
them no joy, coupled with so serious a drawback in
form. I shot several, from which the Foyer boy
HosleflbyGoOgk'
90 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
selected the most beautiful feathers, which he
afterward interwove with others from the macaw,
parrot, and egret, in a goi^eous head-dress, as a
present to me.
Toward noon we came to a cleared space, much
the largest I had seen on the coast ; and, as we ap-
proached nearer, I saw a house of European con-
struction, and a large field of sugar-cane. In strik-
ing contrast with these evidences of industry and
civilization, a Sambo or Mo8C[uito village, made up
of squalid huta, half buried in the forest, filled out
the foreground. I recognized it as the village of
Wasswatla (literally Watertown), the place of our
destination. It, nevertheless, looked so uninviting
and miserable, that had I not been attracted by
the Christian establishment in the distance, I
should have returned incontinently to the lagoon.
My unfavorable impressions were heightened on a
nearer approach. As we pushed up our canoe to
the shore, among a great variety of dories and
other boats, the population of the village, including
a large number of dogs of low degree, swarmed
down to siuTey us. The juveniles, were utterly
naked, and most of the adults of both sexes had
nothing more than a strip of a species of cloth,
made of the inner bark of the ule or India-rubber
tree (resembling the tappa of the Society Island-
ers), wrapped around their loins. There was scarce-
ly one who was not disfigured by the blotches of
the tulpis, and the hair of each stood out in fright-
ful frizzles, " like the quills on the fretful porcu-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A ROYAL PASSPORT, 91
pine." Most of the men carried a abort spear,
pointed with a common triangular file, carefully
sharpened by rubbing on the stones, which, as I
afterward learned, is used for striking turtle.
Forbidding as was the appearance of the assem-
blage, none of its indiyiduals evinced hostility, and
when I jumped ashore, and saluted them with
"Good morning," they all responded, " Mornin',
sir .'" brought out with an indescribable African
drawl. Two or three of the number volunteered to
help Antonio draw up our boat, while I gave vari-
ous orders, in default of knowing what else to do.
Luckily, it occurred to me to produce a document,
or pass, with which Mr. BeU had kindly furnished
me before leaving Blueflelds, and which all seemed
to recognize, pointing to it respectfully, and ejacu-
lating, " King paper ! King paper !" It was fre-
quently called afterward, " the paper that talks."
This precious document, well engrossed on a sheet
of fools-cap, with a broad seal at the bottom, ran
as follows : —
" MoB(\mto Eingliont.
" George "William Clarence, by the Grace of
God, King of the Mosquito Territory, to our trusty
■and well-beloved officers and subjects, Greeting !
We, by these presents, do give pass and license to
Samuel A. Bard Esquire, to go freely through our
kingdom, and to dwell therein ; and do furthermore
exhort and command our well-beloved officers and
subjects aforesaid, to give aid and hospitality to the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
92 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
aforesaid Samuel A. Bard Esquire, whom we hold
of high esteem and consideration. Given at Blue-
fields, this day of — , in this the tenth year
of our reign."
(Signed,) ^i p
The ejaculations of " King paper ! King paper 1"
were followed by loud shouts of " Oapt'n ! Gap-
t'n !" while two or three tall feUows ran off in the
direction of the huts. I was a little puzzled hy the
movement, hut not long left in doubt as to its ob-
ject, for, in a few moments, a figure approached,
creating hardly less sensation among the people,
than he would have done' among the " boys" in the
Bowery, I at once recognized him as the " Oap-
t'n," whose title had been so vigorously invoked.
He was, to start with, far from being a fine-looldng
darkey ; but all natural deficiencies were more than
made up by his dress. He had on a most venerable
cocked hat, in which was stuck a long, drooping,
red plume, that had lost half of its feathers, look-
ing hke the plumes of some rake of a rooster, re-
turning, crestfallen and bedraggled, from an unsuc-
cessful attempt on some powerful neighbor's haremi
His coat was that of a post-captain in the British
navy, and his pantaloons were of blue cloth, with a
rusty gold stripe running down each side. They were,
furthermore, much too short at both ends, leaving an
y projection of ankle, as well as ahroad strip
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HosleflbyGoOgk'
CAPTAIN DKUMMJSK, 96
of dark skin between the waistband and the coat.
And when I say that the captain wore no shirt, was
rather fat, and Kis pantaloons deficient in buttons
wherewith to keep it appropriately closed in front,
the active fancy of the reader may be able to com-
plete the picture. He bore, moreover, a huge cav-
alry sword, which looked all the more formidable
from being bent in several places and very ruaty.
Ho came forward with deliberation and gravity, and
I advanced to meet liim, " king paper" in hand.
When I had got near him, he adjusted himself in
position, and compressed his lips, with an affecta-
tion of severe dignity. Hardly able to restrain
laughing outright, I took off my hat, and ealuted
him with a profound bow, and " Gfood morning.
Captain 1" He pulled off his hat in return, and
undertook a bow, but the strain was too great on
the sole remaining button of his waistband ; it gave
vfay, and, to borrow a modest nautical phrase, the
nether garment " came down on the run 1" The
captain, however, no way disconcerted, gathered it
up with both hands, and held it in place, while I
read the " paper that talked."
The upshot of the ceremony was, that I was wel-
comed to "Wasswatla, and taken to a largo vacant
hut, vrMch was called the "king's house," and dedi-
cated to the G-enius of Hospitality. That is to say,
the stranger or trader may take up his abode there,
provided he can dislodge the pigs and chickens, who
have an obstinate notion of their own on the sub-
ject of the proprietorship, and can never be induced
HosleflbyGoOgk'
96 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
to surrender their prescriptive rights. The " king's
house" was a simple shed, the ground within trod-
den into mire by the pigs, and the thatched roof
ahove half blown away by the wind. But, even
thus uninviting, it was better than any of the other
and drier huts, for the fleas, at least, had been suf-
focated in the mud, Befqre night, Antonio had
covered the floor, a foot deep, with cahoon leaves,
and, with the aid of the Poyer boy and one or two
natives, seduced thereunto by what they universally
call " gi'og," had restored the roof, and built up a
barricade of poles against the pigs. These were
not numerous, but hungry and vicious ; and, finding
the barricade too strong to be rooted down, they
tried the dodge of tho Jews at Jericho, and of Cap-
tain Crockett with the bear, and undertook to squeal
it down ! They neither ate nor slept, those pigs, I
verily believe, during the period of my stay ; but
kept up an incessant squeal, occasionally relieving
their tempers by a spiteful drive at the poles. Be-
tween them and pestilent insects of various kinds,
my slumbers were none of the sweetest, and I reg-
istered a solemn vow that this should be my last
trial of Mosquito hospitality.
In the afternoon I had a visit from the captain,
who told me that his name was "Lord Nelson Drum-
mer," and that his father had been " &overnor" in
the section around Pearl-Gay Lagoon. He had laid
aside his official suit, and with simple breeches of
white cotton cloth, and a straw hat, afforded a
favorable contrast to his appearance in the mom-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A DESERTED PLANTATION. 97
iiig. He spoke Englisli — ijuite as well as the ne-
groea of Jamaica, and generally made himself un-
derstood. From him I learned that the house,
which I had seen in the clearings, had been huilt,
many years before, by a Trench Creole from one of
the islands of the Antilles, who at one time had
there a lai^e plantation of coffee, cotton, and sugar-
cane, from the last of which he distilled much rum.
Drummer was animated on the subject of the rum,
of which there had been, as he said, "much
plenty I" But the Frenchmen had died, and al-
though his family kept up the establishment for a
little while, they were obliged to abandon it in the
end. The negroes who had been brought out, soon
caught the infection of the coast, and, slavery hav-
ing been prohibited (by the British Superintendent
at Belize !), became idle, drunken, and worthless.
Some of them BtiU lingered around Wasswatla,
gathering for sale to the occasional trader, a few
pounds of coffee from the trees on the plantation,
which, in spite of years of utter neglect, still bore
fruit. The abandoned cane-fieHs furnished a sup-
ply of canes, at which all the inhabitants of Wass-
watla, old and young, were constantly gnawing.
In fact, this appeared to be their principal occu-
pation. I subsequently visited the abandoned es-
tate. It was overgrown with vines and hushes,
among which the orange, Ume, and coffee-trees
struggled for existence. The house was tumbling
into ruin, and the boilers in which the sugar had
been made, were full of stagnating water, I re-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
98 THE MOSQUITO SHOKE.
tumed to the squalid village, having learned an-
other philosophy in the science of philanthropy ;
and with a diminishing inclination to tolerate the
common cant about " universal brotherhood 1"
The soil on the "Wawaahaan is rich and product-
ive. It seems well adapted to cotton and sugar.
The climate is hot and humid, and I saw many of
the natives much reduced, and suffering greatly
from fevers, which, if not violent, appear, neverthe-
less, to be persistent, and exceedingly debilitating.
The natural products are numerous and valuable.
I observed many indian-rubber trees, and, for the
first time, the vanilla. It is produced on a vine,
which climbs to the tops of the loftiest trees. Its
leaves somewhat resemble those of the grape ; the
flowers are red and yellow, and when they fall off
are succeeded by the pods, which grow in clusters,
]ike our ordinary beans. Green at first, they change
to yellow, and finally to a dark brown. To be pre-
served, they are gathered when yellow, and put in
heaps, for a few days, to ferment. They are after-
ward placed in the sun to dry, flattened by the
hand, and carefully rubbed with cocoa-nut oU, and
then packed in dry plantain-leaves, so as to confine
their powerful aromatic odor. The vanilla might
be made a considerable article of trade on the
coast ; but, at present, only a few dozen packages
Lord Nelson, as I invariably called the captain,
domesticated himself with me from the first day,
and ate and drank with me—" especially the lat-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
ter." And I soon found out that there was a direct
and intimate relation, between his degree of thirst
and his proteetatione of attachment. He even
hinted his intention to get up a musMa feast for
me, but I would not agree to stay for a sufficient
length of time.
Finally, however, a grand iisHng expedition to
the lagoon was determined on, and I was surprised
to see with bow much alacrity the proposition wa«
taken up. The day previous to starting was de-
voted to sharpening spears, cleaning the boats, and
paddles, in all of which operations the
worked indiscriminately with the men.
Plantains were gathered, and, as it seemed to me,
no end of sugar-canes from the deserted plantation.
In the evening, which happened to prove clear, the
big drum was got out, fires lighted, and there was a
dance, as Lord Nelson said, "Mosquito fashion,"
My part of the performance consisted in keeping up
the spirit of tho drummeni, by pouring spirits down,
which service was responded to by a vehemence of
pounding that would have done credit to. a militia
training. I was surprised to find how much skill
the performers had attained ; but afterward dis-
covered that the drum is the favorite instrument on
the coast, and is called in recLuisition on all occa-
sions of festivity or ceremony. The dance was un-
couth, without the merit of being grotesque ; and
long before it was finished, the performers, of both
sexes, had thrown aside their totirnous, and aban-
doned every shadow of decency in their actions.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
100 THE MOSQUITO SHOKE.
Lord Nelson Tiegan to grow torpid early in the
evening, and, before I left the scene, had been
carried off dead drunt. Next morning he looked
rather downcast, and complained that the mm
"had spoiled his head."
It was CLuite late when our flotiUa got under
way, with a large dory, carrying the big drum,
leading the van. There were some twenty-odd
boats, containing nearly the entire population of
the village. This number was increased from the
huts lower down, the occupants of which hailed ns
with loud shouts, and hastened after us with their
canoes. We went down the river with the current
very rapidly, the men paddling in the maddest way,
and shouting to each other at the top of their
voices. Occasionally the boats got foul, when the
rivals used the flat of their paddles over each
other's heads without scruple. I was considerably
in the rear, and, from the sound of the blows, im-
agined that every skull had been crushed ; but next
moment their owners were paddling and shouting
as if nothing had happened. !From that day, I had
a morbid curiosity to get a Mosquito skull !
We all encamped at night, on the sandy beach
of a large island, in the centre of the lagoon. The
reader may be sure that I made my own camp at a
respectable distance from the rest of the party,
where I had a quiet supper, patronized, as usual,
by Captain Drummer. As soon as it became dark,
the preparations for fishing commenced. The
1 were left on the beach, and three men ap-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
FIBB-LIGHT FISHING. 101
portioned to each boat. One was detailed to pad-
dle, another to. hold the torch, and the third, and
most sMUful, acted aa striker or spearsman. The
torches were made of splinters of the fat yellow
pine, which abounds in the interior. The spears, I
observed, were of two kinds ; one firmly fixed by a
shank at the end of a long light pole, called fiira-
nock, which is not allowed to escape the hand of
the striker. The other, called waisko-dusa, is
much shorter. The stafi^ is hollow, and the iron
spear-head, or harpoon, is fastened to a line which
passes through rings hy the side of the shaft, and
is wound to a piece of light-wood, designed to act
as a float. When thrown, the head remains in the
fish, while the line unwinds, and the float rises to
the surface, to be seized again by the fisherman,
who then hauls in his fish at his leisure. "When the
fish is large and active, the chase after the float
becomes animated, and takes the character of what
fishermen call " sport,"
As I have said, no sooner was it dark than the
boats pushed off, in different directions, on the la-
goon. My Foyer hoy had borrowed a waisko-
dusa, and with him to strike, and Antonio to
paddle, I took a torch, and also glided out on the
■water. My torch was tied to a pole, which I held
over the how. Antonio paddled slowly, while the
Foyer boy, entirely naked (for the strikers often go
overboard after their own spears), stood in the how,
with hia spear poised in his right hand, eagerly in-
clining forward, and motionless as a statue. He
HosleflbyGoOgk'
102 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
was perfect in form, and his bronze limbs, juet
tense enough to display witbout distorting the
muscles, were brought in clear outline against the
darkness by the light of the torch— reveahng a fig-
ure and pose that would shame the highest achieve-
ments of the sculptor. It was so admirable that I
quite forgot the fisher in the artist, when, rapid as
hght, the arm of the Poyer hoy fell, and the spear
entered the water eight or nine feet ahead of the
boat. The motion was so sudden, that it nearly
startled me overboard. At first, 1 thought he had
missed his mark, but I soon saw the white float,
now dipping under the water, now jerked this way,
now that, evincing clearly that the spearsman had
been true in hie aim. A few strokes of Antonio's
paddle brought the float within reach of the striker,
who began, in sporting phrase, to " land" the fish.
It made a desperate struggle, and, for awhile, it
was what is called a " tight pull " between the
boj md the hsh Neverfchele««, he was hnilly got
m, ind jrcved to 1 e what is tailed a June, or Jew-
fish (foiarinui), by the Enghsh, and Palj>n by tho
native*' In point of dehcaij and iiL.haes'i of flavor,
this fihh is unequaled by any other found m these
seis The one which wo obtained weighed not far
tiom eighty pcunds Some of them have been
knjwn to weigh two or three hundred pounds. Our
prize made a great disturbance in our little canoe,
to which Antonio put a stop by disemboweling him
on the spot, after which we resumed our sport.
We were successful in obtaining a number of rock-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
fish, and several si&oko, or sheep's-heads. Ambi-
tious to try my skill, I took the Poyer boy's place
for awMle, I was astonished to find how perfectly
clear the water proved to bo, ujider the light of the
torch. The bottom, which, in the broad daylight,
had been utterly invisible, now revealed all of its
mysteries, its shells, and plants, and stones, with
wonderful distinctness. I observed also that the
fish seemed to be attracted by the light, and, in-
stead of darting away, rose toward the surface and
approached the boat. I allowed several opportuni-
ties of throwing the spear to slip. Finally, a fine
sheep's-head rose just in front of me ; I aimed my
spear, and threw it with such an excess of force as
literally to drive the dory from beneath my feet,
precipitating myself in the water, and knocking
down and extinguishing the torch in my ungraceful
tumble. The spear was recovered, and I felt rather
disappointed to find that it was innocent of a fish.
Antonio suggested that he had broken loose, which
was kind of him, but it would n't do. As we were
without light, and, moreover, had as many fish as
we could possibly dispose of, we paddled ashore.
Up to this time, I had been so much absorbed
with our own sport, that I had not noticed the other
fishers. It was a strange scene. Each torch glow-
ed at the apex of a trembling pyramid of red hght,
which, as the boats could not he seen, seemed to be
inspired with life. Some moved on stately and slow,
while others, where the boats were rapidly whirled
in pursuit of the stricken fish, seemed to be chasing
HosleflbyGoOgk'
104 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
each other in fiery glee. Every Buccessfiil throw
was hailed with vehement shouts, heightened by
loud blows made by striking the flat of the paddle
on the surface of the water. All along the shore,
the women had lighted fires whereat to dry the fish,
which, in this climate, can not be kept long without
spoiling. ■ The light from these fires caught on the
heavy foliage of the shore, and revealing the groups
of half-naked women and children, helped to make
up a scene which it is difficult to paint in words,
but which can never be forgotten hy one who has
witnessed it.
It was past midnight before the boats all returned
to the shore ; and then commenced the drying of
the fish. Over all the fires, just out of reach of the
flames, were raised frame-works of canes, like grid-
irons, on which the fish, thinly sHced lengthwise,
and rubbed with salt, were laid. They were repeat-
edly turned, so that, with the salt, smoke and heat,
they were so far cured in the morning, as to require
no further attention than a day or two of exposure
to the sun. Our Jew-fish was thus prepared, and
afterward stood us in good stead, much resembling
smoked salmon, but less salt. While Antonio super-
intended this operation, I cooked the head and
shoulders of the big fish in the sand, after the man-
ner I have already described, and achieved a signal
success, inasmuch as the dish was well seasoned with
" hunger sauce."
HosleflbyGoOgk'
arouud them.
FF the mouth of Peail Oi> Li^ on
are numeious cije whiLti iii fact
^i\e their namot theligo n They
are celebrated for the niimher and
Tariety of turtles found on and
fo much delighted with our
torch-light fishing, that I hecame eager to witness
the sport of turtle-hunting, which ia regarded by the
Mosc[uitoa as their noblest art, and in which they
have acquired proverbial expertness. Drummer
required only a little persuasion and a taste of rum,
to undertake an expedition to the cays. As this
involved going out in the open sea, he selected four
of the largest pitpans, to each of which he assigned
the requisite number of able-bodied and expert men.
The women and remaining men were left to continue
their fishing in the lagoon. My canoe was much
too small to venture off, and accordingly was left in
HosleflbyGoOgk'
106 THE MOSQUITO SHOBE,
ctarge of the Poyer boy, "who, armed with my
double-barreled guiij felt himself a host. With
Antonio, I waa given a place in the largest pitpan,
commanded by Harris, Oaptain Drummer's " c[uar-
ter-maeter," tvho was much the finest specimen of
physical beauty that I had seen among the Samboe.
I was cLuite concerned on finding how little pro-
visions were taken in the boats, since bad weather
often keeps the fishermen out for two or three
weeks. But Drummer insisted that we should find
plenty to cat, and we embarked. "We caught the
land-breeze as soon as we got from under the lee of
the shore, and drove rapidly on our course. Although
the sea was comparatively smooth, yet the boats all
carried such an amount of sail as to keep me in a
state of constant nervousness. One would scarcely
believe that the Mosquito men venture out in their
pitpans, in the roughest weather with impunity,
riding the waves like sea-guUs. If upset, they right
their boats in a moment, and with their broad pad-
dle-blades clear them of water in an incredibly short
space of time.
We went, literally, with the wind ; and in four
houra after leaving the shore, were among the cays.
These are very numerous, surrounded by reeft,
through which wind intricate channels, all well
known to the fishers. Some of the cays are mere
heaps of sand, and half-disintegrated coral-rock,
others are larger, and a few have bushes, and an
occasional palm-tree upon them, much resembling
" El Koncador." It was on one of the latter, where
HosleflbyGoOgk'
TAKING TURTLE. 107
there were the ruins of a rude hut, and a place
scooped in the sand, containing brackish -water,
that we landed, and made our encampment, No
Booner was this done than Harris started out with
his boat after turtle, leaving the rest to repair the
hut, and arrange matters for the night. Of course
I accompanied Harris,
The apparatus for striking the turtle is esceed-
ingly simple, corresponding exactly with the waisko-
dusa, which I have described, except that instead
of being barbed, the point is an ordinary triangular
file, ground exceedingly sharp. This, it has been
found, is the only thing which will pierce the thick
armor of the turtle ; and, moreover, it makes so
small a hole, that it seldom kills the green turtle,
and very shghtly injures the scales of the hawkbiU
variety, which futnishes the shell of commerce.
Harris stood in the bow of the pitpan, keeping a
sharp look out, holding his spear in his right
hand, with hie left hand behind him, where it an-
swered the purpose of a telegraph to the two men
■who paddled. They kept their eyes fixed on the
signal, and regulated their strokes, and the course
and speed of the boat, accordingly. Not a word
was said, as it is supposed that the turtle is sharp
of hearing. In this manner we paddled among
the cays for half an hour, when, on a slight motion
of Harris' hand, the men altered their course a lit-
tle, and worked their paddles so slowly and quietly
as scarcely to cause a ripple. I peered ahead, but
saw only what I supposed was a rock, projecting
HosleflbyGoOgk'
108 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
above the water. It was, neverttelesB, a turtle,
floating lazily on the surface, as turtles are wont to
do. Notwithstanding the caution of our approach,
he either heard us, or caught sight of the boat, and
sank while we were yet fifty yards distant. There,
was a quick motion of Harris' manual telegraph,
and the men began to paddle with the utmost ra-
pidity, striking their paddles deep in the water. In
an instant the boat had darted oyer the spot where
the turtle had disappeared, and I caught a hurried
glimpse of him, making his way with a speed which
quite upset my notions of the ability of turtles in
that line, predicated upon their unwieldiness on
land. He literally seemed to slide through the
water.
And now commenced a novel and exciting chase.
Harris had his eyes on the turtle, and the men
theirs on Harris' telegraphic hand. Now we darted
this way, then that ; slow one moment, rapid the
next, and anon stocli still The water was not so
deep as to permit our scaly friend to get entirely
out of reach of Harris' practiced eye, although to
me the bottom appeared to be a hopeless maze. As
the turtle must rise to the surface sooner or later
to breathe, the object of the pui^uer is to keep near
enough to transfix him when he appears. Finally,
after half an hour of dodging about, the boat was
stopped with a jerk, and down darted the spear.
As the whole of the shaft did not go under, I saw it
had not failed of its object. A moment more, and
Harris had hold of the line. After a few struggles
HosleflbyGoOgk'
STRIKING TURTLE. 109
and spasmodic attempts to get away, his spirit gave
in, and the tired turtle tamely allowed himself to
be conducted to ■ tho shore. A few sharp strokes
disengaged tho fUe, and he was turned over on his
back on the sand, the veiy picture of utter helpless-
ness, to await our retum, I havo a fancy that the
expression of a turtle's head, and half-closed eyes,
under such circumstances, is the superlative of
saintly resignation ; to which a few depreciatory
movements of his flippers come in as a sanctimoni-
ous accessory, like the upraised pajme of a well-fed
]!! n
This " specimen," as the naturalists would say,
proved to be of the smaller, or hawk-biU variety,
the flesh of which is inferior to that of the green
turtle, although hawk-bills are most valuable on
account of their shells. So wc paddled off again.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
110 THE MOSQUITO SHORE,
keeping cloae to the cays and reefs, where the water
is shallow. It was nearly dark hefore Harris got a
chance at another turtle, which he struck on the
bottom, at least eight feet helow the surfiice.
This was of the green variety ; he was lifted in the
hoat, and his head unceremoniously chopped off,
lest he should take a spiteful nip at the hams of
the paddlers.
We wound our way back to the rendezvous, pick-
ing up our hawk-bill, who was that night unmer-
cifully put through the cruel process, which I have
already had occasion to describe, for separating the
scales from the shell, after which he was permitted
to take himself off. I may here mention, that be-
sides the two varieties of turtle which I have
named, there is another and lai^er kind, called
the loggerhead turtle (Tesiwdo Garetta), which re-
sembles the green turtle, but is distinguished by
the superior size of the head, greater breadth of
shell, and by its deeper and more variegated colors.
It grows to be of great size, sometimes reaching one
thousand or twelve hundred pounds ; but its flesh
is rank and coarse, and the laminte of its shell too
thin for use. It, nevertheless, supplies a good oil,
proper for a variety of purposes.
That evening, we had turtle steaks, and turtle eggs,
roasted turtle flippers, and calUpash and callipee
(the two latter in the form of soup), — in fact, turtle
in every form known to the Mosquito men, who
weU deserve the name of turtle-men. The tmi-le
conceals its eggs in the sand, but the natives are
HosleflbyGoOgk'
"jumping turtle." hi
ready to detect indications of a deposit, wliicli ttey
verify by thrusting in the sand the iron ramrod of
a musket, an operation which they call " feeling
for eggs."
About midnight, it came on to rain heavily, and
continued all the next day, so that nothing could
be done. The time was " put in" talking turtle, and
Harris got eo warmed up as to promise to show me
what the MoscLuito men regard a^ the ne plus ultra
of sldll in turtle craft, namely, ''jumping turtle."
He did not explain to me what this meant, but
gave me a significant w^g of the head, which is a
Mo8C[uito synonym for nous verrons.
The third day proved propitious, and Harris was
successful in obtaining several fine turtles. About
noon he laid aside his spear, and took his position,
entirely naked, keeping up, nevertheless, his usual
look-out. We were not long in getting on the
track of a turtle. After a world of maneuvering,
apparently with the object of driving him into shal-
low water, Harris made a sudden dive overboard.
The water boiled and bubbled for a few moments,
■when he reappeared, holding a iine hawk-biU in
his outstretched hands. And that feat proved to
be what is called "jumping a turtle." It often
happens that bunghng fishermen get badly bitten
in these attempts, which are not without their dan-
gers from the sharp coral rocks and spiny sea-eg^.
During the afternoon of the fourth day, we re-
turned to the lagoon, taking with us eight green
turtles, and about ninety pounds of ilne shell. We
HosleflbyGoOgk'
112 THE MOSQUITO SHOBE.
found that most of tlie party wliicli we had left had
gone back to the village, whither Drummer and his
" quarter-master" were urgent I should return with
them. But Waeswatla had no further attractions
for me, and I was firm in my purpose of proceeding
straightway up the coast.
With many last turns at the grog, I parted — not
■without regret— rwith Driunmer and Harris, giving
them each a gaudy siik handkerchief, in acknowl-
edgment of two fine turtles which they insisted on
my accepting. Harris also gaye me his turtle-
spear, and was much exalted when I told him that
I should have it engraved with his name, and hung
up in my waila (house) at home.
Peari-Cay Lagoon is upward of forty miles long,
hy, perhaps, ten miles wide at its broadest part.
There are three or four settlements upon it, the
principal of which are called Kirka, and English
Bank, I did not visit any of these, but took my
course direct for the upper end of the lagoon, where,
as the chain of salt lakes is here interrupted for a
considerable distance, there is another haulover
from the lagoon to the sea, I saw several collec-
tions of huts on the western shore, and on a small
island, where we stopped during the mid-day heats,
I gathered a few stalks of the jiqmlite (ImMgofera
disperTna), or indigenous indigo-plant, which may
be ranked as one of the prospective sources of
wealth on the coast.
We arrived at the haulover in the midst of a
drenching thunder-storm, which lasted into the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
TROPICAL TORMENTS. 113
night. It waa impossible to light a fire, and so we-
drew up the canoe on the beach, and, piling our
traps in the centre, I perched myself on the top,
where, with the sail thrown over my head, I enact-
ed the part of a tent-pole for the Hve-long night t
My Indian companions stripped themselves naked,
rubbed their bodies with palm oil, and took the
pelting with all the nonchalance of ducks. For
want of any thing better to do, I ate plantains and
dried fish, and, after the raip subsided, watched the
brilliant fire-fliee, of which hundreds moved about
lazily under the lee of the bushes. The atmos-
phere, after the storm had subsided; was murky and
sultry, making respiration difficult, and inducing a
sense of extreme lassitude and fatigue. Every
thing was damp and sticky, and so saturated with
water, that it was impossible for me to lie down, I
applied to my Jamaica for comfort, hut, in spite of
it, relapsed into a fit of gluTns, or " blue-devils."
To add to my discomfort, innumerable sand-flies
came out, and, soon after, a cloud of moaquitos,
while a forest-fuU of some kind of tree-toad struck
up a doleful piping, which proved too much for
even my tried equanimity. I got up, and strode
back and forth on the narrow sand-beach, in a ve-
hement and intemperate manner, wishing myself in
New York, any where, even in Jamaica ! The re-
membrance of my first night on the shores of the
lagoon only served to make me feel the more
wretched, and I longed to have " some gentleman
do me the favor to thread on the tail of me coat I"
HosleflbyGoOgk'
114 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
Toward daylight, however, my companions had
contrived to make up a sicHy flre, in the smoke of
which I sought refuge from the mosq^uitoes and
sand-fliee, and became soothed and Booty at the
same time. Day came at last, but the eun was ob-
scured, and things wore hut shght improvement on
the night. I found that we were on a narrow strip
of sand, scarcely two hundred yards wide, covered
with scrubby buahea, interspersed with a few twist-
ed trees, looking like weather-beaten skeletons, be-
yond which was the sea, dark and threatening,
■under a gray, iilmy sky, Antonio predicted a
storm, what he called a temporal, during which it
often rains steadily for a week. Under the circum-
stances; it became a pregnant question what to do :
whether to return down the lagoon to some more
eligible spot for an encampment, or to push out
boldly on the ocean, and make an effort to gain the
mouth of a large river, some miles up the coast,
called Eio Grande or Great River.
I resolved upon the latter couree, and we drag-
ged the canoe across the haulover. Although the
surf was not high, we had great difficulty in
launching our boat, which was effected by my com-
panions, who, stationed one on each side, seized a
favorable moment, as the waves fell, to drag it be-
yond the line of breakers. While one kept it sta-
tionary with his paddle, the other, watching his op-
portunity, carried off the articles one by ono, and
finally, stripping myself, I mounted on Antonio's
shoulders, and was deposited like a sack in the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
BRAVING THE BAE. 115
boat. We paddled out until we got a good offing,
then put up our sail, and laid our course nortb-
florth-weet. The coast was dim and indietinct, but
I had great faith in the Poyer hoy, whose judgment
had tlius far never failed. About four o'clock in
the afternoon, we came in sight of a knoll or high
bank, which, covered with large trees, rises on the
north side of the mouth of Great Eiver, constitut-
ing an excellent landtoark, I was in no wise sorry
to find ourselves nearing it rapidly, for the wind be-
gan to freshen, and I feared lest it might raise such
a surf on the bar of the river as to prevent us from
entering. In fact, the waves had begun to break at
the shallower places on the bar, while elsewhere
the north-east wind drove over the water in heavy
swells. The sail was hastily gathered in, and my
Indians, seizing their paddles, watched the seventh,
or downing wave, and, by vigorous exertion, cheer-
ing each other with shouts, kept the canoe at its
crest, and thus we were swept majestically over tho
bar, into the comparatively quiet water beyond it.
Half an hour afterward, the great waves broke on
the very spot where we had crossed, in clouds of
spray, and with the noise of thunder !
The mouth of Great Kiver is broad, but entirely
exposed to the north-east ; and, although it is a
large stream, the water on its bar is not more than
iive or six feet deep, shutting out all large vessels,
which otherwise might go up a long way into the
country. There are several islands near the mouth.
On the innermost one, which toward the sea is
HosleflbyGoOgk'
116 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
bluff and Mgh, we made our encampment. It ap-
peared to me as favorable a spot as we could find,
Tvbereon to await tbe temporal which Aatonio had
predicted, and tbe approach of which became ap-
parent to even tbe most impracticed observer. For-
tunately, with Harris' turtles, we felt easy on the
score of food. So we dragged the canoe high up on
tbe bank, and while I kindled a Are, my companions
busied themselves in constructing a shelter over tbe
boat. Stout forked stakes were planted at each
end of the canoe, to support a ridge-pole, with other
shorter ones supporting the outer poles. To these,
canes were lasbed transversely, and over all was
woven a thatch of cahoon, or palmetto-leaves. Out-
side, and on a line with tbe eaves, a Httle trench
was dug, to carry off the water, and preserve the
interior from being flooded by what might run
down tbe slope of the ground. So rapidly was aU
this done, that before it was quite dark the but was
so far advanced as to enable us to defy the rain,
wbicb soon began to fall in torrents. The strong
Boa wind drove off tbe mosquitos to tbe bush on tbe
main-land, so that I slept comfortably and well, in
spite of the thunder of the sea and the roaring of
tbe wind.
For eight days it rained almost uninterruptedly.
Sometimes, between nine and eleven o'clock, and
for perhaps an hour near sunset, there would be a
pause, and a luU in the wind, and a general light-
ing up of the leaden sky, as if tbe sun were about to
brealt through. But tbe clouds would gather again
HosleflbyGoOgk'
tKOPICAL "temporal."
IIT
darker than ever, and the rain set in with a steady
pouring unknown in northern latitudes, For eight
mortal days we had no ray of sun, or moon, or star I
Every iron thing became thickly coated with rust ;
our plantains began to spot, and our dried fish to
grow soft and mouldy, requiring to be hung over
the small fire which wo contrived to keep alive, in
one comer of our extemporaneous hut.
After the third day, the water in the river began
to rise, and during the night rose more than eight
feet. On the fifth day the current was full of large
trees, their leaves still green, which seemed to be
bound together with vines. In the afternoon down
came the entire thatched roof of a native hut, which
lodged against our island, bringing us a most accept-
able freight, in the shape of a plump two-months
HosleflbyGoOgk'
118 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
old pig. Hie fellow-voyager— strange companion-
ship i— was a tame parrot, with clipped wings, who
looked melancholy enough when rescued, hut who,
after getting dry in our hut, and soothing his appe-
tite on my plantains, first hecamo mhthful, then
boisterous, and finally mischievous. He was im-
mediately installed as one of the party, and made
more noise in the world than all the rest. To me
he proved an unfailing source of amusement. He
was respectful toward Antonio, but yicious toward
the Foyer boy, and never happy except when
cautiously stealing to get a bite at his toes. When
Buccessful in this ho became wild with dehght, and
as noisy and vehement as a lucky ^Frenchman. It
was one of his prime delights to gnaw off the corks
of my bottles ; and he was possessed of a most in-
sane desire to get inside of my demijohn, mistak-
ing it, perhaps, for a wicker cage, from which he
imagined himself wrongfully excluded. Antonio
called him " El Moro," the Moor, for what reason 1
did not understand, and the name suiting me as
well as any other, I baptized him with water, " El
Moro," and got an ugly pinch on the wrist for my
blasphemy.
Our young porker escaped drowning only to fall
into the hands of the Philistines ; we had nothing
to feed him ; he might get away ; he was, more-
over, invitingly fat ; so we incontinently out his
throat, and ate him up !
During our imprisonment, my companions weie
not idle. Upon the island were many mohoe-tvees.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
ISLAND IMPRISONMENT, 119
the bark of which is tough, and of a fine, soft,
white fibre. Of this they collected considerable
quantities, which the Poyer boy braided into a sort
of cap, designed as the foundation of the elegant
feather head-dress which he afterward gave me ;
while Antonio, more utilitarian, wove a small net,
not unlike that which we use to catch crabs. He
at once put it into recLuisition to catch craw-fish,
which abounded among the rocks to the seaward of
the island. But before entering upon the subject
of oraw-flgh, I may say that the mokoe bark, from
its fine quality, and the abundance ia which it may
be procured, might be made exceedingly useful for
the manufacture of paper-— an article now becom-
ing scarce and dear.
The crai/ or craw-jish resemble the lobster, but
are smaller in size, and want the two great claws.
Their fiesh has more flavor than that of either the
crab or lobster, and we found them an acceptable
addition to our commissariat. There were many
wood-pigeons and parrots on the island, but my gun
had got in such a state, from the damp, that I did
not attempt to use it.
Our protracted stay made a large draft on our
yueas and plantains, and it became important to us
to look out for fruit and vegetables. The current
in the river was too strong, and too much obstruct-
ed with floating timber, to permit us to use om-
boat. The water, even at the broadest part of the
stream, had risen upward of fifteen feet, equivalent
to a rise of twenty or twenty-five feet in the inte-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
120 THE MOeQUITO SHORE,
rior ! The banks were overflowed ; the low ialanda
outside of us completely submerged and our own
space much circumscribod. A few plantain-trees,
which we had observed on the first evening, had
been broken down or swept away, and we were fain
to put ourselves on a short allowance of vegetables.
One morning, during a pause in the rain, I ven-
tured out ; and, after a little search, found a tree,
resembling a pear-tree, and bearing a largo quan-
tity of a small fruit, of the size and shape of a crab-
apple, and exactly like it in smell. I cried out de-
lightedly to Antonio, holding up a handful of the
supposed apples. To my surprise, he shouted,
" Throw them down ! throw them down !" explain-
ing that they were the fruit of the m.angeneel or
mamaniUa, and rank poison. He hurried me away
from the tree, assuring me that even the dew or
rain-drops which fell from its loaves were poisonouF,
and that its influence, like that of the fabled upas,
is so powerful as to swell the faces and limbs of
those who may be ignorant or indiscreet enough
to sleep beneath its shade ! I found out subse-
(juently, that it is with the aerid mflky juice of this
tree that the Indians poison their arrows. I ever
afterward gave it a wide berth. In shape and
smell is is so much like the crab-apple that I can
readily understand how it might prove dangerous to
strangers. Under the tropics, it is safe to let wild
fruits alone. Antonio, more successful than myself,
found a large quantity of ffuavas, which the natives
eat with groat relish, but which to me have a disa-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE BELBASl!. 121
greeable aromatic, or rather, musky taste. 80 I
stuck to plantains, and left my companions and
" El Moro" to enjoy a monopoly of guavas.
\Finally, tho windows of heaven were closed, the
rain ceased, and the sun came out with a bright,
well-washed face. It was none too soon, for every
article which I possessed, clothing, books, food, all
had begun to spot and mould from tho damp. I
had myself a sympathetic feeling, and dreamed at
night that 1 was covered with a green mildew ;
dreams so vivid that I once got up and went out
naked in the raiii, to wash it off !
After the leaves had ceased to drip, we stretched
lines between the trees, and hung out our scanty
wardrobe to dry. I rubbed and brushed at my
court suit of hlack, but in vain. What with salt
■water at " El Koncador," and mould here, it had
acquired a permanent rusty and leprous loot, which
half inclined me to follow the Poyer hoy's sugges-
tion, and soak it in palm oil I Few and simple as
were our ecLuipments, it took full two days to redeem
them from the effects of the damp. My gun moro
resembled some of those c[iiabit old flre-locks taken
from wrecks, and exhibited in museums, than any
thing useful to the present generation. In view of
aU things, I was fain to ejaculate, Heaven save me
from another "temporal" on the Most[uito Shore !
HosleflbyGoOgk'
jfe cjssva'u
T was thiee days after the ram had
ceased, before we could embirk on
I the river, and e\eii then its cuirent
was angary and turbid and filled
with, floating trees We liugged the banks in our
accent, dirtins^ tiora mt side of th'' etieani tj the
other, to aviil OTirseh es of the ?ac7-''e('' oi eddies,
somLtimG'i lining by in -unsuccessful attempt, all we
had gained by half an hour of hard paddling. The
banks were much torn by the water ; in some places
they had fallen in, carrying many trees into the
stream, where they remained anchored to the shore
by the numerous tough vines that twined around
them. Elsewhere the trees, half undermined, leaned
heavily over the current, in which the long vines
hung trailing in mournful masses, like the drooping
leaves of the funeral willow. The long grass on the
low islands had been beaten down, and was covered
HosleflbyGoOgk'
EL SIO GEAHDE. 123
with a slimy deposit, over which stalked hungry
water-birds, the snow-white ibis, and long-shanked
crane, in search of wonns and insects, and entangled
fiak
We were occupied the whole day, in reaching the
first settlement on this river — a picturesque collec-
tion of low huts, in a forest of palm, papaya, and
plantain- trees. Near it were some considerable
patches of maize, and long reaches of yucas, scLuash,
and melon-vines. There were, in short, more evi-
dences of industry and thrift than I had yet seen on
the entire coast.
As we approached the bank, in front of the huts,
I observed that all the inhabitants were pure In-
dians, whom my Foyer hoy hailed in his own tongue.
I afterward found out that they were Woolwas, and
spoke a dialect of the same language with the
Foyers, and Cookras, to the northward. As at
Wasswatla, nearly all the inhabitants crowded
down to the shore to meet me, affording, with their
slight and symmetrical bodies, and long, well-
ordered, glossy black hair, a striking contrast to the
lai^e-beUied, and spotted mongrels on the Wawa-
shaan. I produced my "King-paper," and ad-
vanced toward a couple of elderly men bearing
white wooden wands, ■which I at once conjectured
were insignia of authority. But no sooner did
they get sight of my " King-paper," than they
motioned me back with tokens of displeasure,
exclaiming, "Sax! sax!" which I had no dif-
ficulty in comprehending; meant "take it away!"
HosleflbyGoOgk'
124 THE MOSQUITO SHOBE.
So I folded it up, put it in my pocket, and ex-
tended mj hand, which was taken by each, and
shaken in the most formal manner, "When the men
■with the wands had finished, all the others came
forward, and went through the same ceremony,
most of them ejaculating, interrogatively, Nakisma ?
which appears to be an exact eijuivalent of the
English, " How are you ?"
This done, the men with the wanda beckoned to me
to follow them, which I did, to a large hut, neatly
wattled at the sides, and closed by a door of
canes. One of them pushed this open, and I en-
tered after him, followed only by those who had
wands, the rest clustering like bees around the
door, or peering through the openings in the wat-
tled walls. There were several rough blocks of wood
in the interior, upon which they seated themselves,
placing me between them. AU this while there
■was an unbroken silence, and I was quite in a fog
as to whether I was held as a guest or as a prisoner.
I looked into the faces of my frionda in Tain ; they
were as impassible as stones. I, howcrer, felt re-
assured when I saw Antonio at the door, his face
wearing rather a pleased than alarmed expression.
We sat thus a very long time, as it appeared to
me, when there was a movement outside, the crowd
separated, and a man entered, bearing a large
earthen vessel filled with liquid, followed by two
girls, with baskets piled ■with cakes of corn meal,
fragments of some kind of broiled meat, and a
quantity of a paste of plantains, having the taste of
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A WOOLWA WELCOME, 125
figs, and called bisbire. The eld eat of the men of
wands fiUed a small calabash, with the liquid,
touched it to his lips, and passed it to me. I did
the same, and handed it to my next neighbor ; but
he motioned it back, exclaiming, " Dis ! dis '."
drink, drink t I found it to he a species of pahn-
wine, with which I afterward became better ae-
cLuainted. It proved pleasant enough to the taste,
and I drained the calabash. Another one of the
old men then took up some of the roaat meat, tore
o±f and ate a little, and handed the rest to me.
Not slow in adaptation, I took all hints, and wound
up by making a hearty meal. The remnants
were then passed out to Antonio, who, however,
was permitted to wait on himself.
I made some observations to Antonio in Spanish,
which I perceived was understood by the principal
dignitary of the wands, who, after some moments,
informed me, in good Spanish, that the hut in
which we were, was the cabtldo of the village, and
that it was wholly at my service, so long as I chose
to stay. Ho furthermore pointed out to me a rude
drum hanging in one corner, made by stretching
the raw skin of some animal over a section of a hollow
tree, upon which he instructed me to beat in case I
wanted any thing. This done, he rose, and, followed
by his companions, ceremoniously retired, leaving
me in quiet poeseesion of the largest and best hut
in the village. I felt myself quite an important
personage, and ordered up my hammock, and the
various contents of my canoe, with a degree of sat-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
126 THE MOSQUITO 8H0BE.
isfaction which I had not experienced when waging a
war against the pigs, in the " King's house" at
Wasawatla.
I Bubsequently ascertained that all of the ideas
of government which the Indians on this river pos-
eess, were derived from the Spaniards, either de-
scending to them from former Spanish estabHsh-
ments here, or obtained from contact with the
Spaniards far up in the interior. The principal
men were called " alcaldes" and many Spanish
worda were in common use, I discovered no trace
of negro blood among them, and found that they
entertained a feeling of dislike, amountiog to hostil-
ity, to the MoscLuito men. So far as I could ascer-
tain, while they denied the authority of the Mos-
quito king, they sent down annually a certain
quantity of sarsaparUla, maize, and other articles,
less as tribute than as the traditionary price of
being let alone by the Sambos, In former times, it
appeared, the latter lost no opportunity of kidnap-
ping their children and women, and selUng them to
the Jamaica traders, as slaves. Indeed, they some-
times undertook armed forays in the Indian terri-
tory, for the purpose of taking prisoners, to be sold
to men who made this trafBc a regular business.
This practice continued down to the abolition of
slavery in Jamaica — a measure of which the llos-
quito men greatly complain, notwithstanding that
they were not themselves exempt from being occa-
sionally kidnapped.
The difficulty of entering the Rio Grande, and
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HABITS OF THE INDIANS, 127
the absence of any considerable traffic with the
natives on its banks, are among the causes which
have contributed to keep them free from the de-
grading influences that prevail on the Mosquito
Shore, They rely chiefly upon agriculture for their
support, and fish and hunt but little. They have
abundance of maize, yucas, cassava, sc[uashes, plan-
tains, papayas, cocoa-nuts, and other fruits and
vegetables, including a few limes and oranges, as
also pigs and fowls, and higher up the river, in the
savannah country, a few horned cattle, I observed,
among the domestic fowls, the true Muscovy duck,
and the idigenous hen or chachalaca.
The people themselves, thoi^h not tall, are well-
made, and have a remarkably soft and inoffensive
expression. The women— and especially the girls —
were exceedingly shy, and always left the huts when
I entered. The men universally wore the ule toiir-
nou, or breech-cloth, but the women had in its
place a piece of cotton cloth of their own manufac-
ture, striped with blue and yeUow, which hung half-
way down the thighs, and was supported above the
hips by being tucked under in some simple, but, to
me, inexplicable manner,* The young girls were
full and symmetrical in form, with fine busts, and
large, lustrous, black eyes, which, however, always
had to me a startled, deer-like expression, I saw
* The blue dye, uaeil in. coloring by these Indians, is made Itom
the jiqidlite, which, as I have said, ia indigenous on the coast. The
jellow from the aaotta, called aahiota, the same used to give the color
known as nankeen. The tree producing it ia abundant tliroughout
all Central America.
Hosted byGoOgle
128 THE MOaQUlTO SHORE.
no iire-arma among the men, although they s
to he acq^uainted with their use. They had, in-
Btead, fine hows and arrows, the latter pomted with
iron, or a species of tough wood, hardened in the
fire. The hoys universally had blow-pipes or reeds,
with which they were very expert, killing ducks,
curlews, and a kind of red partridge, at the distance
of thirty and forty yards. The silence with which
the light arrow is sped, enahles the practiced hun-
ter frequently to kill the greater part of a flock or
covey, hefore the rest take the alarm.
My hfe in the cahildo was unmarked hy any ad-
venture worth notice. I received plantains, fowls,
whatever I desired, Aladdin-like, hy tapping the
drum. This was always promptly responded to hy a
couple of young Indians, who asked no questions, and
made no replies, hut did precisely what they were
hid. Neither they nor the alcaldes would accept
any thing in return for what they furnished me, be-
yond a few red cotton handkerchiefs, and some
small triangular files, of which old Hodgson had
wisely instructed me to take in a small supply. They
all seemed to he unacquainted with the use of
money, although not without some notion of the
value of gold and sUver. I saw several of the wo-
men with rude, light bangles of gold, which metal,
the alcaldes told me, was found in the sands of the
river, very far up, among the mountains.
Among the customs of these Indians, there is one
of a very curious nature, with which I was made
acquainted by accident. Nearly every day I strolled
HosleflbyGoOgk'
STRANGE CUSTOMS. 129
off in the woods, with a vague hope of some time
or other encountering a tvaree, or wild hog (of
whose presence in the neighborhood, an occasional
foray on the maize fields of the Indiana bore wit-
ness), or perhaps a peccari/, or some other large
animal As the bush was thick, I seldom got far
from the beaten paths of the natives, and had to
content myself with now and then shooting a
curassow, in Ueu of higher game. One day, I
ventured rather further up the river than usual,
and came suddenly upon an isolated hut. Being
thirsty, I approached with a view of obtaining some
water. I had got within perhaps twenty paces,
when two old women dashed out toward me, with
vehement cries, motioning me away with the wild-
est gestures, and catching up handfuls of leaves
and throwing them toward me. I thought this
rather inhospitaMe„and at first was disposed not to
leave. But, finally, thinking there must be some
reason for all this, and seeing that the women ap-
peared rather distressed than angry, I retracted my
steps. I afterward found, upon inquiry, that the
hut was what is called tabooed by the South Sea
Islanders, and devoted to the women of the village,
during their confinement. As this period ap-
proaches, they retire to this secluded place, where
they remain in the care of two old women for two
moons, passing through lustrations or purifications
unknown to the men. While the woman is so con-
fined to the hut, no one is allowed to approach it,
and all persons are especially cautious not to pass it
6*
HosleflbyGoOgk'
130 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
to the windward, for it is imagined that hj so doing
tlie wind, which supplies the hreath of the newly-
horn child, would be taken away, and it would die.
This singular notion, I afterward discovered, is also
entertained by the Mo8c[uito people, who no doubt
derived it from their Indian progenitors.
The course of life of the Indians appeared to be
exceedingly regular and monotonous. Both men
and women found abundant occupation during the
day ; they went to bed early, and rose with the
dawn. Although most of them had hammocks,
they universally slept on what arc called crickeries,
or platforms of canes, supported on forked posts,
and covered with variously-coloi-ed mats, woven of
the bark of palm branches. I observed no drunken-
ness among them, and altogether they were c[uiet,
well-ordered, and industrious. In aK their relations
with me, they were respectful ^d obliging, but ex-
ceedingly reserved, I endeavored to break through
their taciturnity, but without success. Hence, after
a few days had passed, and the novelty had worn off,
I began to weary of inactivity. So I one day pro-
posed to the principal alcalde, that he should
undertake a hunt for the tilbia, mountain cow, or
tapir, and the peccary, or Mexican hog. He re-
ceived the proposition deferentially, but suggested
that the manitus, or sea-cow, was a more wonderful
animal than either of those I had named, and that
it would not be difEcult to find one in the river. I
took up the hint eagerly, as I had already caught
one or two glimpses of the manitus, which had
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THEMANITUS. 131
greatly roused my curiosity^ The drum was there-
upon beaten, and the alcalijes convened to consult
upon the matter. They all came with their wands,
and after due deliberation, fixed upon the next
night for the expedition. Boats were accordingly
got ready, and the hunters sharpened their lances
and harpoons. The latter resembled very much
the ordinary whaling harpoons, but were smaller in
size. The lances were narrow and sharp, and
attached to thin staffs, of a very tough and heavy
wood. Notwithstanding that Antonio smiled and
shook his head, I cleaned my gun elaborately, and
loaded it heavily with balL
Before narrating our adventure in the pursuit of
the manitus, it will not be amies to explain that
this animal is probably the most remarkable one
found under the tropica, being amphibious, and the
apparent connecting link between quadrupeds and
fishes. It may perhaps be better compared to the
seal, in its general characteristics, than to any other
sea-animal. It has the two fore feet, or rather
hands, but the hind feet are wanting, or only appear
as rudiments beneath the skin. Its head is thick
and heavy, and has sometiiing the appearance of
that of a hornless cow. It has a broad, flat tail, or
integument, spreading out horizontally, like a fan.
The skin is dark, corrugated, and so thick and hard
that a bullet can scarcely penetrate it, A few scat-
tered hairs appear on its body, which has a general
resemblance of that of the hippopotamus. There
. varieties of the manitus, but it is an
HosleflbyGoOgk'
132 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
animal wliicli appears to te little known to natural-
ists. Its habits are very imperfectly undeietood,
and the natives tell many extraordinary stories
ahout it, alleging, among other things, that it can
be tamed. It is herbivorous, feeding on the long
tender shoots of grass growing on the banlcs of the
rivers, and will rise nearly half of its length out of
water to reach its food. It is never found on the
land, where it would he utterly helpless, since it
can neither walk nor crawl.
It is commonly from ten to fifteen feet long, huge
and unwieldy, and weighing from twelve to fifteen
hundred pounds. It has breasts placed betweciU
its paws, and suckles its young. The male and
female are usually found together. It is extremely
acute in its sense of hearing, and immerges itself
in tits water at tlie slightest noise. Great tact and
caution are therefore necessary to Idll it, and a
manitee hunt puts in requisition all the craft and
sldll of the Indians,
The favorite hour for feeding, with the manitus,
is the early morning, during the dim, gray dawn.
In consequence I was called up to join the hunters
not long after midnight. Two large pitpans, each
holding four or five men, were put in requisition,
and we paddled rapidly up the river, for several
hours, to the top of a long reach, where there were
a number of low islands, covered with grass, and
where the hanks were skirted by swampy savan-
nahs. Here many hushes were cut, and thrown
lightly over the boats, so as to make them resemble
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HUNTING THE MANITUS.
133
floating trees. We waited patiently until the
proper hour arrivedj when the boats were cast loose
from tho shore, and we drifted down with the cur-
rent. One man was placed in the stem with a
paddle to steer, another with a harpoon and line
ciouclied in the how, while the rest, keepmif their
long keen lances ckii of impediment*", knelt on the
hottom AVo glided down m perfect sdence, one
hoat close to eich bank I kept my eyes opened
to the widest and m the dim hght got c|.uite ex-
ated ovei a dozen logs oi sd, which I mistook tor
mamtee But the hnnteis mide no sign, and we
diifted on, until I got impatient, ind liegan to
feai thit oui expedition might piove a failute,
Eiit of a sudden, when I least expected it, the man
in the bow launched his harpoon. The movement
■was followed by a heavy plunge, and in an instant
the boat swung round, head to the stream. Before
HosleflbyGoOgk'
134 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
I eould fairly comprelieiid what was going on, the
boughs were all thrown overboard, and the men
stood with their long lancea poised, ready for in-
stant use. We had run out a lai^e part of the
slack of the harpoon-line, which seemed to be fast
to some immovablo object. The bowsman, how-
ever, now began to gather it in, dragging up the
boat slowly against the current. Suddenly the
manitus, for it was one, left his hold on the bottom,
and started diagonally across the river, trailing us
rapidly after hira. This movement gradually
brought him near the surface, as we could see by
the commotion of the water. Down darted one of
the lances, and under again went the manitus, now
taking his course with the current, down the
stream. The other boat, meantime, had come to
our assistance, hovering in front of us, in order to
fasten another harpoon the instant the victim
should approach near enough to the surface. An
opportvmity soon offered, and he received the second
harpoon and another lance at the same instant. All
this time I had both barrels of my gun cocked,
feverishly awaiting my chance for a shot. Soon the
struggles of the animal became less violent, and he
several times came involuntarily to the surface. I
watched my chance, when his broad head rose in
sight, and discharged both barrels, at a distance of
thirty feet, startling the hunters quite as much- as
they had disconcerted me. It was the Lord's own
mercy that some of them did not get shot in the
general scramble 1
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A DiaAPPOINTMENT. 135
The manitue, after receiving the second harpoon,
became nearly helpless, and the Indians, apparently
secure of their object, allowed the boats to drift
■with him c[metly down the river. Occasionally he
made an ineffectual attempt to dive to the bottom,
dashing the water into foam in his efforts, but long
before we reached the village he floated at the sur-
face, CLuite dead. The morning was bright and
clear when we paddled ashore, where we found
every inhabitant of the place clustering to meet us.
When they saw that we had been successful, they
set up loud shouts, and clapped their hands with
vigor, whence (as this was the only manifestation of
excitement which I had seen) I inferred that the
capture of a manitus was regarded as something of
a feat, even on the Mosquito Shore.
Ropes were speedily attached to the dead animal,
at which every body seemed anxious to get a chance
to pull, and it was dragged up the bank triumph-
antly, amid vehement shouts, I had been some-
what piqued at the contempt in which my gun had
been held, and had been not a httle ambitious of
being able to say that I had kiUed a manitus, and
as, after my shot, the animal had almost entirely
ceased its struggles, I thought it possible I had
given it the final coup, and might conscientiously
get up a tolerable brag on my adventure, over
Mr. Sly's punch, when I returned to New York.
It was with some anxiety, therefore, that I investi-
gated its ugly head, only to find that my balls had
hardly penetrated the skin, and that the hide of the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
136
MOSQUITO 8H0R
manitus is proof against any thing in the shape of
firearms, except, perhaps, a Minie rifle. And thus
I was cheated out of another chance for immortal-
ity I Lestj however, my story that the hide of the
manitus is an inch thick, and tough as whale-
bone, should not be credited, I had a strip of it cut
off, which, when dried, became like horn, and a ter-
ror to dogs, in all my suhsecLuent rambles. I suspect
there are some impertinent curs here, in New York,
who entertain stinging recollections of that same
strip of manitua-hide ! Dr. Pounder, my old school-
master, I am sure, would sacrifice his eyes, or per-
haps, what is of equal consequence, his spectacles,
to obtain it !
But whilo my balls were thus impotent, I found
that the lances of the Indians had literally gone
through and through the manitus. The harpoons
did not penetrate far, their purpose being simply to
fasten the animal. The lances were the fatal in-
struments, and I afterwards saw a young Indian
drive his completely through the trunk of a full-
grown palm-tree. This variety of lance is called
silah, and is greatly prized.
There were great doings in the vQlage over the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
DIVIDING THE SPOIL. 13T
manitus. Beneath the sHn there was a deep layer
of very sweet fat, below which appeared the flesh,
closely resembling beef, hut coarser, and streaked
throughout with layers of fat. This, when broiled
before the fire, proved to bo tender, well-flavored,
and altogether delicious food. The tail is eeteemed
the most delicate part, and, as obeorved by Captain
Henderson, who had a trial of it on the same shore,
" is a dish of which Apicins might have been proud,
and which the diecriminating palate of Heliogoba-
lu8 would have thought entitled to the most distin-
guished reward !" The better and more substantial
part of the animal, namely, the flesh, was carefully
cut in strips, rubbed with salt, and, hung in the sun
to dry, made into what the Spaniards caU tasqjo.
The other portions were distributed among the va-
rious huts, and the tail was presented to me. When
I came to leave, I found that the cured or tasajoed
flesh had also been preserved for my use. Broiled
on the coals, it proved CLuite equal to any thing I
ever tasted, and as sweet as dried venison. And
here I may mention that the flesh of the manitus,
like that of the turtle, is not only excellent food,
hut its effects on the system are beneficial, particu-
larly in the cases of persons afflicted with scorbutic
or scrofulous complaints. It is said these find
speedy relief from its free use, and that, in the
course of a few weelis, the disease entirely disap-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
I signiiied
to mv fuends that I should be Lom
pfUed, on the following day to
leive them and pxnsue my voyage
up the coait I had ^upjosed that
i in interior connection between Great
Kiver ind the lagoons which led to Cipe Gracias,
but fDund that thej commenced with a stieam some
twenty miloH to the northward, cilled " Suook
Cieek, ind that it would he neceasiij to trust our
httle bolt i^m to the sea
The announcement of my intended departure was
received without the slightest manifestion of feel-
ing, but, during the evening, the inhabitants vied
with each other in loading the canoo with fruits
and provisions. They were, in fact, so lavish of
their presents, that I was unable to accept them
all, and had to leave more than half of what they
HosleflbyGoOgk'
AFLOAT, ONCE MOE-E ! 139
brought me, I, nevoitlieleas, made special room
for the tascg'oed manitus, and took all the Msbire
which was "brought. As I have aheady explamed,
the hisUre ia a paste made of ripe plantains, hav-
ing about the consistency, and very much the taste,
of dried fige. It ia made into rolls, closely wrapped
in the leaves of the ti-ee on which it grows, which
preserve it perfectly, and it thus becomes an article
of prime value to the voyager.*
I left the village with as much ceremony as I had
entered it. The Alcaldes hearing their wands,
escorted mc down to the water, where I was obliged
to shake hands with all the people, each one ex-
claiming, "Bisaiia/" equivalent to "Good-bye!"
♦ Tha plantain and the banana are varietiea of the same plant
They not only constitute marked feahires in the luioriant foliage of
the tropica, but their fruit snppliea tlie place of bread, and forms tbe
primap^ pan of the fbod of the people. They lliriTe best in a ricli,
moist Boil, and are gener^y grown in regular walks, from shoota or
bulba like those of the air-plant, which continually sprii^ up at the
roola of the parent stem. Thoy aie very rapid in their growth, pro-
ducing fruit within a twelyemonth. Moreover, not being dependent
upon Hie seaaona, a constant supply is kept up during the year ; for,
while one stem drops beneath ita load of ripe frail, another throws
out its long flower-spike, and a third ahowa tlie half-formed cluster.
The fruit is very nutritivei and is eaten in a great variety of forme —
raw, boHed, roasted, mid fried — and in nearly every stage of its growth,
as well when green as when yellow and mature. Humboldt tells
ns, that it affords, in a given extent of ground, forty-four times more
nutritive matter than the potato, and one hundred and thirty-thrao
times more than wheat. As it requires httle if any care in the culti-
vation, and produces thus perennially and abundantly, it may be
callBd an "institution fertile encouragement of laainesa." On the
banks of all the rivers on the Mosquito Shore, it ia found growing
wild, from slioots brought down from tha plantations of the In-
dians, and which have taken root where thoy were lodged by die
current
HoslaflbyGoOgk'
140 THE MOSQUITO SHORE,
They stood on the bank until we were entirely out
of sight. I left them with admiration for their
primitive habits, and genuine though formal hospi-
tality. Although, in their taciturnity, they were
not unlike our own Indians, yet, in all other re-
spects, they afforded a very striking contrast to
them. The North American savage disdains to
work ; his ambition lies in war and the chase ; but
the gentler dweller under the tropics is often indus-
trious, and resorts to hunting only as an accessory
to agriculture.
The ceremonies of my departure had occupied so
much time that, when we reached the mouth of the
river, it was too late to venture outside. So we
took up our quarters, for the night, in our old en-
campment, on the island. The moon was out, and
the evening was exceedingly beautiful — so beauti-
ful, indeed, that I might have fallen into heroics,
had it not been for a most infernal concert kept up
by wild animals on the river's banks. I at first sup-
posed that all the ferocious beasts of the forest had
congregated, preparatory to a general fight, and
comforted myself that we were separated from them
by the river. There were unearthly groans, and
angry snarls, and shrieks, so hke those of human
beings in distress as to send a thrill through every
nerve. At times the noises seemed blended, and
became sullen and distant, and then so sharp and
near that I could hardly persuade myself they were
not produced on the island itself I should have
passed the night in alarm, had not Antonio been
HosleflbyGoOgk'
NOCTURNAL NOISES. 141
there to explain to me that most, if not all these
sounds came from what the Spaniards call the
" tnono Colorado," or howling monkey. I after-
ward saw a specimen — a large, ugly heast, of a
dirty, brick-red color, with a long beard, but other-
wise like an African baboon. Different from most
other monkeys, they remain in nearly the same
places, and have favorite trees, in which an entire
troop will take up its quarters at night, and open a
horrible serenade, that never fails to fill the mind
of the inexperienced traveler with the most dismal
fancies. Notwithstanding Antonio's cxplaaatione,
they so disturbed my slumbers that I got up about
midnight, and, going down to the edge of the
water, fired both barrels of my gun in the direction
of the greatest noise. But I advise no one to try a
similar experiment. All the water-birds and wild
fowl roosting in the trees gave a sudden flutter, and
set up responsive croaks and screams, from which
the monkeys seemed to derive great encourage-
ment, and redoubled their howling. I was glad
when the unwonted commotion ceased, and the deni-
zens of the forest relapsed again into their chronic
serenade,
A large proportion of tropical animals are em-
phatically " children of the night." It is at night
that the tiger and maneless Mexican lion leave
their lairs, and range the dense forests in pursuit
of their prey, rousing the peccary and tapir from
their haunts, and sending them to seek refuge in
the thickets, where crashing of bushes and eplash-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
142 THE MOSQUITO SHOKE.
inga in hidden pools testify to the blind fear of the
pursued, and the fierce instincts of the pursuera.
A sudden plunge of the alligator from the hants,
will Btartle the wild birds on the overhanging trees,
and in an instant the forest resounds to the wild
cries of the tiger, the plaints of the frightened
monkeys, and the shrieks and croaks of the numer-
ous water-fowl ; while the wakeful traveler starts
up and hastily grasps his faithful gun, surprised to
find the wildemess, which was so still and slumber-
ous under the noonday heats, now terrible with
savage and warring life.
Toward morning the commotion in the forest
subsided, and I was enabled to snatch a few hours
of slumber. I awoke to find the sun just streaking
the horizon, and the boat all ready for departure.
Antonio had cut two trunks of the buoyant moAoe
tree, which were lashed to the sides of our boat to
act as floats, and prevent us from being overturned
by any sudden flaw of the wind. "We passed the
bar without much trouble, and made a good offing,
before laying our course for " Snook Creek." The
■wind was fresh, and the water bright and playful
under the blue and cloudless sky. I leaned over
the side of our frail boat— scarce a speck in the broad
breast of the ocean — and watched the numerous
marine animals and mollusca that floated past ;
the nautilus, " small commodore," with its tiny sail
and rosy prow, the pulsating rhisostoma, and the
hemice, with its silken hair — most fragile fbi-ms of
life, and yet unharmed dwellers in the mighty sea,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
MONOTINODS SHORE, 148
wliich mocke at the strength of iron, and uiider-
mhies continents in its wrath !
During the afternoon we came close in shore,
keeping a sharp look-out for the mouth of " Snook
Creek." There are, however, no landmarks on the
entire coast ; throughout it wore the same flat, mo-
notonous appearance — a narrow strip of sand in front
of a low impenetrable forest, in which the fierce
north-easters had left no large trees standing.
Hence it is almost impossible for voyagers, not inti-
mately acc[nainted with the shore, to determine their
position. My Poyer boy had coasted here but once,
and I found, toward evening, that he was of opinion
that we had passed the mouth of the creek of which
we were in search. So we resolved to stand along
the shore for either Walpasixa or Prinza-pulka,
where part of the hull of an American ship, wrecked
sometime before, still remained as a guide to
voyagers.
As the sun went down, the wind fell, and the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
144 riiK -MOSQurjo mhohk.
moon camo tip, Hlictlding its li;^lu u])oii llie liraad,
amooth swells of the ma, silvoi -bmnislR'il u|uiii oqo
side, and on the otlier dark l)iit cIimv, like tho
8liado«^ on polislied steel. Wo lowyrcil o\u' U8el«s»
sail, aiid my companioDs took their paddles, kisep-
iug time to a Idtid of chant, led oif hy Antonio, the
Foyer hoy joining in tlie Bwolling chorus. The
melody was very eimplo, and, like that of all purely
Indian chante, Bad and plaintive, I have often
thought, in listening to them, thftt they wore the
wails of a people coiiscioiis of their deoay, over a
contmcnt Hlippiii^;- fmm Slieir j^ras!|), imd a puwcr
hrokon forcvii !
T lay lonj^, WiU(;liiiig the shore as it glided past,
and listening to the tinkle of the water under our
prow, but finally fell into a deep and dreamiest
slumber, rocked by the ocean in ita gentlest mood.
When I awoke we had already passed the Prinaai-
pnlkii har, and were fastened to the branches of a
large tree, which had become cntanged among the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
VINES AND VEBWUBE. 145
mangroves, on the banks of the river. It was with
no small degree of satisfaction that I found we had
now an uninterrupted river and lagoon navigation
to Cape G-raciaSj and that we should not again he
obliged to venturo, with our little boat, upon the
open sea.
The Prinza-pnlka seemed rather an estuary than
a river, and was lined with an impenetrable forest
of mangroves. These were covered with flocks of
the white ibia, and, as we advanced up the stream,
we came upon others of a rose color, looking like
bouquets of flowers among the green leaves of the
trees.
At the distance of three miles, the river banks
grew higher, although densely covered with wild
plants and vines, which seemed to have subdued
the forest. The few trees that were left were clus-
tered all over with twining rope-plants, or Uanes,
sometimes hanging down and swinging in mid-air,
and again stretched to the ground, like the cord-
age of a ship, supporting in turn, hundreds of
creepers, with leaves of translucent green, and
loaded with clusters of bright flowers. An oc-
casional fan-palm thrust itself above the tangled
verdure, as if struggling for Kght and air ; while the
broad leaves of the wild plantain emerged here and
there in groups, and the slender stalks of the
bamboo-cane, fringed with delicate leaves like those
of the willow, bent gracefully over the water. At
the foot of this emerald wall was a strip of slimy
earth, and I observed occasional holes, or tunnel-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
146 THE MoSQurro shore,
like apertures, tiiroiigh which the alligator trailed
his hideouB length, or the larger land-animals came
down to the water to drink As we glided hy one
of these openings, a tapir suddenly projected Ms
head and ugly prohoscis, but, startled hy our canoe,
as suddenly withdrew it, and disappeared in the
dart recesses of the impenetrable jungle, in which
it is beyond the power of man to penetrate, except
ho laboriously carves his way, foot hy foot, in the
matted mass.
About ten o'clock we reached the mouth of a
narrow creek, or stream, diverging from the river
imder a complete canopy of verdure. Up this creek,
my Foyer assured me, the Prinza-pulka village was
situated, 80 we paddled in, and, after many wind-
ings, finally came where the vegetation was less
rank, and the banks were higher and firmer, I
began to breatho freer, for the air within these
tropical fastnesses seemed to me loaded with mias-
matic damps, like the atmosphere of a vault. As
we proceeded, the country became more and more
open, and the water clearer, revealing a gravelly
bottom, until, at last, to my surprise, we came upon
broad savannahs, fringed, along the water, by
narrow belts of trees. Through these I caught
glimpses of gentle swells and undulations of land,
upon which, to my further amazement, I saw
clumps of pine-trees ! I had supposed the pine to
be found only in high, temperate latitudes, and
could scarcely believe that it grew here, side by
side with the palm, almost on a level with the sea,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A DOUBTFUL RECEPTION. 14T
until I was assured by my Poyer that it abounded
iu all the savannahs, and covered all the plateaus
and mountains of the interior,
A bend in the creek brought us suddenly in view
of a group of canoes, drawn up on the shore, in
front of a few scattered huts. One or two women,
engaged in some occupation at the edge of the
water, fled when they saw us, scrambling up the
bank in evident alarm. As we approached nearer,
I saw through the bushes a number of men hurry-
ing back and forth, and calling to each other in
excited voices. Before we had fairly reached the
landing-place, they had collected among the canoes,
whence they motioned us back with violent ges-
tures. Some were armed with spears, others had
bows and arrows, and two or three carried muskets,
which they pointed at us in a very careless and un-
pleasant manner. I observed that they were Sam-
bos, like those at Wasswatla, equally frizzled about
the head, and spotted with the bulpis. "Whenever
we attempted to approach, they shouted " Bus 1
hus '" and raised their weapons. The Poyer boy
responded by calling " Wita," i. e., chief, or head
man. Hereupon one of the number came forward a
little, and inquired " Inglis / Inglis ?" pointing to
mc. I held up my pass, and, remembering Wass-
watla, pointed to it, exclaiming, " King paper !
king paper !" This seemed to produce an impres-
sion, and we made a movement to land, but up
came the guns again, their muzzles looldng as large
as church doors. Things certainly appeared squally,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
148 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
and I was a little puzzled what to do. Prudence
suggested that we should retreat, hut then that
might be understood aa an evidence of fear, which,
with savins, as with wild heaets, ie a auie way of
inviting attack. I preferred, therefore, to await
quietly the result of a conference which seemed to
he going on, and in which I noticed I was frequently
pointed out, with very suggestive gestures. While
this was "going on, Antonio carefully got out ray
gmi and revolver, handing me the latter in such a
maimer as not to attract notice. He had evinced
a h%h consideration for it, ever since, it had played
so large a part in my first interview with the patron
at " El Eoncador."
After much dehate, two of the Samhos, including
the head man, pushed off to us in a canoe, under
the cover of the weapons of those on shore. They,
however, fell back in evident alarm when they
caught sight of my revolver, I therefore laid it
down, extended both open hands, and hailed them
with the Mosquito salutation, which applies equally
at all hours of the day and night, " Good morning !"
They replied, with the universal drawl, " Mormn',
sir .'" I put my " king paper" forward, very con ■
spicuously, and read it through to them, no doubt
to their edification. The head man said, " Good !
good 1" when I had finished, hut nevertheless
seemed suspicious of the contents of our boat, in-
quiring, in a broken way, for " Osnaberga," and
" pauda," or powder. I explained to them, as well
as I could, that we were not traders, which piece of
HosleflbyGoOgk'
ViLLAHIC OF QUAMWATLA. 149
information did "not seem to please them. But
pfhen they caught sight of my demijohn, they
evinced more amiahility, which I hastened to
heighten hy giving them a calabaeh of the contents.
They afterward aignified their willingnesB to let
me go ashore, if I would first give them my gun
and revolver, which I sternly and peremptorily refus-
ed to do. They finally paddled to the shore, motion-
ing foi us to follow Upon landing I gave them
each a dram, which was hwallowed m a hieath,
■with uneciuivocil feigns "f lehsh The head men.
after another ineffectual attempt to induce me to
surrender my revolver, led the way up the bank,
Antonio and the Poyer boy remaining with the
canoe.
The village was very stragghng and squalid, al-
though the position was one of great beauty. It
stood on the edge of an extensive savannah, cov-
ered thickly with coarse grass, and dotted over
HosleflbyGoOgk'
150 THE MOSQUITO SIIOBE.
with little clusters of bushes, and clumps of dark
pines, more reaembling a rich park, laid out with
coneummate still, than a scene on a wild and un-
known skore, under the tropics. As we advanced,
I observed that the huts were all comparatively
new, and that there were many burnt spots, mark-
ed by charred posts and half-burned thatch-poles.
Among the rubbish, in one or two places, I noticed
fragments of earthenware of European manufac-
ture, and pieces of copper sheathing, evidently from
some vessel.
I was conducted to the head man's hut, where
room was made for me to sit down on one of the
criekeries. Some kind of fermented drink was
brought for me, which I had great difficulty in de-
cUning. In fact, I did not like the general aspect
of things. In the first place, there were no women
visible, and then the ugly customers with the guns
and spears, when not scrutinizing me or my re-
volver-— which seemed to have a strange fascination
in their eyea — ^were engaged in a very sinister kind
of consultation.
The head man seemed particularly anxious to
know my destination, and the purposes of my visit.
My suspicions had been roused, and I represented
myself as a little in advance of a large party from
the Cape, bound down the coast, and incLuired, in
return, what Idnd of accommodations could be pro-
vided for my companions when they arrived. This
rather disconcerted him, and I thought the oppor-
tunity favorable to fall back to the boat, now fuUy
HosleflbyGoOgk'
T ROUBLE liaEWING. 151
convinced that some kind of treachery was meditat-
ed. A moTement was made to intercept me at the
door, ])ut the presented muzzle of my revolver
opened the way in an instant, and I walked slowly
down to the landing, the armed men following, and
calling out angrily, '' Mer'kamanI Mer'kaman!"
Antonio stood at the top of the bank, with my gun,
his face wearing an anxious expression. He whis-
pered to me hurriedly, in Spanish, that half a dozen
armed men had gone down the creek in a hoat, and
that he had no doubt the intention was to attack
us.
In fact the cowardly wretches were now brandish-
ing their weapons, and uttering savage shouts. I
at once saw that there was but one avenue of es-
cape open, namely, to take to our boat, and get
away as fast as possible. I waited until my com-
panions had taken their places, and then waUied
down the bank deliberately, and entered the canoe.
A few rapid strokes of the paddles carried us well
clear of the shore, before the Sambos reached the
top of the bank. I brought my gun to hear upon
them, determined to fire the instant they should
manifest any overt act of hostility. They seemed
to comprehend this, and contented themselves with
running after us, along the bank, shouting " Mer'ka
man !" and pointing their weapons at us, through
the openings in the hushes.
"We were not long in getting beyond their reach,
but they nevertheless kept up loud, taunting shouts,
while we were within hearing. I counted this a
HosleflbyGoOgk'
15'2 THE MOSQUITO SHOKE.
lucky escape fi-om the viDage, but was not at my
ease about the party which had gone down the creek.
I felt sure that they were in ambush in some of the
dark recesses of the banks, and that we might
be attacked at any moment. Both Antonio and
myself, therefore, sat down in the bottom of the
canoe, closely watching the shores, while the Poyer
boy paddled noiselessly in the stem. It was now
near night, and the shadows gathered so darkly
over the narrow stream that we could see nothing
distinctly. On we went, stealthily and watchfully.
We had reached the darkest covert on the creek, a
short distance above its junction with the river,
when a large canoe shot from the bank across our
bows, with the evident purpose of intercepting us.
At the same instant a flight of arrows whizzed past
us, one or two striking in the canoe, while the
others spattered the water close by, I at once com-
mehced firing my revolver, while Antonio, seizing
the long manitee^pear, sprang to the bow. At the
same instant our canoe struck the opposing boat, as
the saying is, "head on," crushing in its rotten
sides, and ewamping it in a moment. Antooio gave
a wild shout of triumph, driving his spear at the
struggling wretches, some of whom endeavored to
save themselves by climbing into our canoe. I
heard the dull tohug of the lance as it struck the
body of one of the victims, and, with a sickening
sensation, cried to the Poyer, who had also seized a
lanco to join in tho slaughter, to resume his paddle.
He dill so, and in a few seconds we were clear of the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
Hosted byGoogle
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE FLIGHT. 155
Bcene of our encounter, and gliding away in the
darkness. I caught a ghmpse of the struggling
figures clinging to their shattered boat, and utter-
ing the wildest cries of alarm and distress. The
quick ear of Antonio caught responsive shouts, and
it soon hecame evident that we had heen followed
by hoats from, the village.
Convinced that we would be pursued, and that if
overtaken we should be borne down by numbers, the
question of our safety became one of superior craft,
or superior speed. I was disposed to try the latter,
but yielded to Antonio, who, watching an opportu-
nity, ran our boat under an overhanging tree, where
the tangled bank cast an impenetrable shadow on
the water. Here we breathlessly awaited the course
of events. It was not long before we heard a shght
ripple, and through the uncertain light I saw three
canoes dart rapidly and silently past. The pureuers
evidently thought we had reached the river, where
the mangroves and impenetrable jungles on the
banks would effectually prevent concealment or
escape. Believed from the sense of immediate
danger, it became a vital question what we should
next do to secure our ultimate safety. The moon
would soon be up, and our pursuers, not finding us
on the river, would at once divine our trick, and,
placing us between themselves and the town, render
escape impossible. To abandon our boat was to
court a miserable death in the woods, Antonio
suggested the only feasible alternative. There
were but three canoes, and when they reached the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
lot) TH£ MOSQUITO SHORE.
river, he shrewdly reasoned, two would follow our
most probable track down the stream, while the
third would doubtless search for us above. Our
policy, then, was to follow in the wake of the latter,
until it should be as widely separated from aid as
possible, and then, by a sudden coup-de-main, either
disable or paralyze our opponents, and make the
best of our way into the interior, where we could
not fail to find creeks, and other places of refuge
from pursuit.
My companions stripped themselves, so as not to
be encumbered in the water, in ease of accident, and
I followed their example, retaining only my dark
shirt, lest my white body should prove too conspic-
uoua a mark. I carefully loaded my pistols, put a
handful of buck-shot in each barrel of my gun, and
we starteddown the creek. A few moments brought
us to the river, but we could neither see nor hear
the canoes of our enemies. We turned up the
stream, paddling rapidly, but silently, and keeping
close to the shore. Every few minutes Antonio
would stop to listen. Meantime, I hailed with joy
some heavy clouds in the East, which promised to
prolong the obscurity, by hiding the light of the
rising moon.
The excitement of the night of the terrible storm,
in which I was wrecked on "El Roncador," was
trifling to what I experienced that evening, paddling
up the dark and sullen river. I exulted in every
boat's length which we gained, as tending to make
the inevitable contest more equiil,. ^md welcomed
HosleflbyGoOgk'
GATHERING OF THE STORM. 15T
every ebon fold of cloud which gathered in the hori-
zon. I felt that a thunder-storm was brooding ;
and the marshaling of the elements roused still
more the savage desperation which gradually ab-
sorbed every other feeling and sentiment. At first,
every nerve in my syetem vibrated, and I trembled
m every limb ; I felt like one in an ague fit ; but
this soon passed away — every muscle became tense,
and I felt the strong pulsations in my temples, as
if m.olten iron was coursing through the veins. I
no longer sought to avoid a contest, bnt longed,
for the hour to come when I could shed blood.
Every moment seemed an age, and I know not how
I subdued my impatience.
Meantime the threatened storm gathered, with a
rapidity peculiar to the tropics on the eve of a
fervid day, and the darkness became so dense that
we several times run our boat against the bank,
from sheer inabihty to see. Suddenly the dark vail
of heaven was rift, and the lurid lightning fell with
a blinding flash, which seemed to sear our eye-balls.
An instant after rolled in the deep-voiced thunder,
booming awfully among the primeval forests. A
few rain-drops followed, which struck with steel-hke
sharpness on the naked skin, and hot puffs of air
came soughing along the river. A moment after
the heavens again glowed with the lightnings, glar-
ing on the dark breast of the river, and revealing,
but a few yards in advance "of us, the hostile canoe,
returning from what its occupants no doubt n
as a hopeless pursuit. Their loud shout of s
HosleflbyGoOgk'
15S THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
defiance and joy was cut short "by the heavy roU of
the thimder, and, an instant after, the hows of our
boats came together. They glanced apart, and I
waa nearly thrown from my balance into the water,
for I had risen, the more surely to pour the contents
of my gun into the midst of our assailants. Another
shout followed the shock, and I heard the arrows,
shot at random in the darkness, hiss past our heads.
I reserved my fire until the lightning should fall
to guide ray aim. I had not long to wait ; a third
flash revealed the opposing boat ; I saw that it was
fiUed with men, and that in their midst stood the
treacherous head man of the village. The flash of
my gun, and that of the lightning, so far as human
senses could discern, were simultaneous ; yet instan-
taneous as the whole transaction must have been, I
saw my victim fall, and heard his body plunge in
the water, before the report had been caught up by
the echo, or drowned by the thunder. I shall never
forget the shriek of terror and of rage that rung out
from that boat to swell the angry discord of the ele-
ments. Even now, it often startles me from my
sleep. But then it inspired me with the wildest
joy ; I shouted back triumphantly, and tossed my
arms exultingly in the face of the unblenching dark-
ness. A few more arrows, a couple of musket-shots,
fired at random toward us, and the combat was
over. We heard wails and groans, but they grew
fainter and more distant, showing that our enemies
were dropping down the river. Another flash of
HosleflbyGoOgk'
VICTOKY,
lightning disclosed them drifting along the hant,
and beyond the reach of our weapons.
Our purpose was now aceompHshed ; our foes
were behind us, and before us an unknown mesh of
lagoons and rivers. We bad no alternative but to
advance, perhaps upon other and more formidable
dangers. However that might be, we did not stop
to consider, but all through the stormy night plied
our paddles with incessant energy. About midnight
we came to a small lagoon, on the bants of which
wo observed some fires, but the sky was still over-
cast, and we escaped notice. Toward morning the
moon came out, and we directed our boat close in
shore, so as to take refuge in some obscure creek
during the day. An opening finally presented it-
self, and we paddled in. As we advanced it became
narrow, and was obstructed by drooping branches
and fallen trunks. Under some of them we forced
our boat with difSculty, and others we cut away
with our machetes. After iniinite trouble and labor
we passed the mangix)ve-swamp, and came to high
grounds, on which were many coyol palm-trees, and
a few dark pines. Here, exhausted with our ex-
traordinary efforts, and no longer sustained by ex-
citement, we made a hasty encampment. To guard
against surprise Antonio undertook the first watch,
and, wrapping myself in my blanket, I fell into a
profound slumber.
And now, to remove any mystery which might
attach to the hostile conduct of the Sambos at
Qwafntoatla (for that was the name of the inhos-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
1*>0 THE MOSQUITO SIIOKR.
pitable village), I may explain that, in September,
1849, the bark "Simeon Draper," from New York,
bound for Chagrea, with passengers for California,
was wrecked on the coast, near the mouth of the
Prinza-pulka River, The remains of her hull I
have alluded to, as now constituting one of the
principal landmarks on that monotonous shore.
Her passengers all escaped to the land, and suc-
ceeded in recovering most of their effects. They
were soon discovered by the Sambos of Quamwatla,
who, affecting friendship, nevertheless committed
extensive depredations on fhe property of the pas-
sengers. Strong representations were made to the
head man, but without effect ; in fact, it soon be-
came evident that he was the principal instigator
of the robberies. The news of the wreck spread
along the coast, and a large number of Sambos
gathered at the village. As their numbers in-
creased, they grew bold and hostile, until the po-
sition of the passengers became one of danger.
They finally received intimations that a concerted
attack would soon be made upon them, which they
anticipated by an assault upon the Sambo village.
The inhabitants, taken by eurprise, flod after a few
discharges of the rifles and revolvers, and the viUage
was set on tire and burned to the ground. The
wrecked Americans were not afterward disturbed,
and their condition becoming known in San Juan,
a vessel was dispatched to their relief, and they
were taken off in safety.
It was not until I arrived at Cape G-racias that I
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE EXPLANATION, ItSl
became acquainted with these facts, which account-
ed for the appearance of things in Quamwatla, and
explained the hostility of the natives. Every Eng-
lishman on the coast is a trader, and as I disowned
that character, and, moreover, carried a revolver,
they were not long in making up their minds that
I was an AmoTican.
Under all the circumstances of the case, our es-
cape was almost miraculous. I suhsequently ascer-
tained that three of our asaaUantB had been killed
outright in the two encounters, and that the treach-
erous head man had died of his wounds.
It is "with no feeling of exultation that I raention
this fact ; for, so long as I live, I shall not cease to
lament the necessity, which circumstances imposed
upon me, of taking the life of a human being, how-
ever debased or criminaL I know of no sacrifice
which I would not now make to restore those mis-
erable wretches to their deserted huts, and to the
rude affection of which even savages are capable.
The events of that terrible night have left a shadow
over my heart, which time rather serves to deepen
than to e&ce.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
i reception at Quamwatla had eei
y not been A a kind to inspire
us with the most cheerful anticipa-
tions. We knew that a vast net-work of lagoons,
rivers, and creeke extended to Cape Gracias, but of
the character and disposition of the people, scatter-
ed along their tangled shores, we were utterly igno-
rant. Turning back was not to be thought of ; and
going ahead was a matter which req;uired caution.
Should we be bo unfortunate as to get involved in
another fight, we could hardly expect to get off so
easily as we had done in our last encounter.
Under all the circumstances, we concluded that,
inasmuch as our place of refuge seemed secure, and
withal was not deficient in resources, it would be
the wisest plan to remain where wc were until the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
CAMF IN THE WILDERNESS. 163
pursuit, which we were sure would be made, should
have been abandoned ; or, at least, until the waning
of the moon should afford us a dark night, wherein
we could pursue our voyage unobserved. With this
sage resolution, we set to work to establish a tem-
porary camp.
As I have said, the little creek, which we had fol-
lowed, led us to the base of a range of low hills, or
rather ridges or swells of land, where the ground
was not alluvial, but dry and gravelly. Those
ridges could hardly be called savannahs, although
they were covered with a species of coarae grass,
relieved, here and there, by clumps of gum-arabic
bushes, groups of pine-trees, and an occasional
coyol, or spiny-palm. Between these comparative-
ly high grounds and the lagoon, intervened a dense,
impenetrable mangrove-swamp, pierced by a few
choked channels formed by the small streams com-
ing down from the hills.
I selected the shelter of a clump of fragrant
pines for our encampment, where the ground was
covered with a soft, brown carpet of fallen leaves.
A rope stretched between the trees supported our
little saU, which was spread out, tent-wise, by poles.
Under this my hammock was suspended, affording
a retreat, shady and cool by day, and secure from
damps and rains at night.
In a little grassy dell, close by, was a clear spring
of water. We lit no fires except at night, lest the
smoke might betray us ; and only then in places
whence the light could not be refl.ected.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
164 THE MOSQUITO WHOBE,
Accustomed as ■were my companions to wild and
savage life, they seemed to enjoy the danger and
the seclusion in which we found ourselves. It gave
them an opportunity to display their skill and re-
sources, and they really assumed toward me an air
of complacent patronage, something like that of a
city Aa6i(w^ toward his country cousin, when show-
ing to him the marvels of the metropolis.
One of Antonio's earliest exploits, after out reso-
lution to stop had heen taken, was to cut down a
numher of the rough-looking palm-trees. In the
trunks of these, near their tops, where the leav^
sprang out, he carefully chiseled a hole, cutting
completely through the pulp of the tree, to the
outer, or woody shell. This hole was again cov-
ered with the piece of rind, which had first been
removed, as with a lid. I watched the operation
curiously, but asked no questions. In the course of
the afternoon, however, he took ofi^ one of these
covers, and disclosed to me the cavity filled with a
frothy lic[uid, of the faintest straw tinge, looking
like delicate Sauteme wine. He presented me with
a piece of reed, and with a gratified air motioned
me to drink. My early experiments with straws, in
the cider-barrels of New England, recurred to me
at once, and I laughed to think that I had come to
repeat them under the tropica. I found the juice
sweet, and slightly pungent, but altogether rich,
delicious, and invigorating. As may be supposed,
I paid frequent visits to Antonio's reservoii^.
This palm bears the name of coyol among the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
VINO DE COYOL. 165
-ds, and of cookatruoe among the MoscLuitos.
Its juice ia called by the focmer Vino de Coyol,
and by the Indians generally Ohicha (cheechee) — a
name, however, which is apphed to a variety of
drinks. When the tree is cut down, the end is
plastered with mud, to prevent the juice, with
which the core is saturated, from exuding, A holo
is then cut near the top, as I have described, in
which the liquid is gradually distilled, filhng the
reservoir in the course of ten or twelve hours. This
reservoir may be emptied daily, and yet be con-
stantly replenished, it is said, for upward of a
month. On the third day, if the tree be exposed to
the sun, the juice begins to ferment, and gradually
grows stronger, until, at the end of a couple of weeks, it
becomes intoxicating — thus affording to the Sambos
a ready means of getting up the " big drunk," The
Spaniards afBrm that the " vino de coyol" is a spe-
cific for indigestion and pains in the stomach.
The nuts of this variety of palm grow in large
clusters. They are round, containing a very solid
kernel, so saturated with oil as to resemble refined
wax. It is in all respects superior to the ordinary
cocoa-nut oil, and might be obtained in any desir-
able (quantity, if means could be devised for separat-
ing the Iiernel from the shell. This shell is thick,
hard, black, capable of receiving the minutest carv-
ing, and most brilliant polish, and is often .worked
into ornaments by the Indians,
In thf moist depressions, or valleys, near our
encampment, we also found another variety of
HosleflbyGoOgk'
166
MOSQUITO SHOEB.
palm, -whicli often stands the traveler, under tin
tropica, in good stead, as a substitute for other anc
better vegetable food. I mean the Palmetto Boyal
ov Mountain Cabbage {Are-
(« oUracea), ■which hat
jubtly been called tht
* " Queen of the Forest." H
glows to a great height,
irequently no thicker than
a man's thigh, yet rising
upward of a hundred and
iifty feet in the air. Kc
other tree in the world
equals it in height oi
beauty. The trunk swells
moderately a short distance
above tha.root, whence it
tapers gently to its emerald
crown, sustaining through-
out the most elegant pro-
portions.
The edible part, or " cab-
bage" (as it is called, from
some fancied resemblance
in taste to that vegetable),
constitutes the upper part
of the trunk, whence the
PALMETTO ROYAL. fohage spHngs. It resem-
bles a tall Etruscan vase in shape, of the liveliest
green color, gently sweUing from its pedestal, and
diminishing gradually to the top, where it expands
HosleflbyGoOgk'
PALME T'l'O ROYAL. 167
in plume-like branches. Trom the very centre of
this natural vase rises a taU, yellowish spatha, or
sheath, terminating in a sharp point. At tho
bottom of this, and inclosed in the natural vage
which I have described, is found a tender whito
core, or heart, varying in size with the dimensions
of the tree, hut usually eight or ten inches in cir-
cumference. This may he eaten raw, as a salad,
or, if preferred, fried or boiled. In taste it resem-
bles an artichoke, rather than a cabbage.
The Indians climb this palm, and, dexterously
inserting their knives, contrive to obtain the edible
part without destroying the tree itself. By moans
of the same contrivance which he made use of in
obtaining the cocoa-nuts, on the island in Pearl
Cay Lagoon, Antonio kept ua supplied with palm
cabbages, which were our chief reliance, in the vege-
table line. I found that they were most palatable
when properly seasoned, and baked in the ground,
with some strips of manitee fat, after the manner
which I have already described.
The fruits of this treo are small, oblong berries,
of a purplish blue, about the size of an olive, inclos-
ing a smooth, brittle nut, which, in turn, covers a
cartUaginoua kernel.
The pine ridges were not deficient in animal life,
A few large cotton-trees grew on the edge of the
mangrove-swamp, which were the nightly resort of
parrots and parocLuets, who came HteraUy in clouds,
and then the calfings, scoldings, frettings, and
acreamings that took place would have drowned the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
168 THE MOSQUITO 8H0EE.
confusion of the most vicious rookery extant. In
the eyening and morning it was really difficult for
us to make each other hear, although our camp was
distant more than two hundred yards irom the
roosts. The parrots are often eaten hy the
natives, in default of other food, but they are
tough, hard, dry, and tasteless. Not so, however,
with the quails, which were not only numerous,
hut so tame, or rather so unsuspecting, that we
could catch as many as we wanted, in the simplest
kind of traps. We adopted this method of pro-
curing such game as the Poyer hoy did not kill
with his how, instead of using my gun, the report
of which might betray ns.
Day hy day we extended our excursions farther
from the camp, every step reveahng to me, at least,
something novel and interesting. I think it was
the third day after our arrival, when we came upon a
patch of low ground, or jungle, densely wooded, and
distant perhaps half a mile from our encampment.
Attracted by some bright flowers, I penetrated a
"few yards into the bushes, where, to my surprise, I
came upon what appeared to he a well-beaten path,
which I followed for some distance, wondering over
the various queer traclra which I observed printed,
here and there, on the moist ground. While thus
engaged, I was startled by the sound of some animal
approaching, with a dull and heavy, hut rapid tread.
Looking up, I saw a lead-colored beast, about the
size of a lai^e donkey, its head drooping between
its fore-legs, coming toward me at a swinging trot.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
TOUCHING THE TAFIK, 169
Thinking lie was charging upon me direct, I leaped
into the bushes, mth the intention of climbing up a
tree. But before I could effect my object, the
monster lumbered past, taking not the slightest
notice of my presence, I breathed freer, when I
saw hia broad buttocks and little pig-like tail disap-
pearing down the path, and I made my way out of
the jungle, in a manner probably more expeditious
than either graceful or valorous. Antonio, who
was dodging after a fat currassow, had heard the
noise, and was witness of my retreat. He seemed
alarmed at first, but only smiled when I explained
what I had seen. In fact, he appeared to think it
rather a good joke, and hurried off to examine the
tracks. He came back in a few minutes, and re-
ported that my monster was only a dante, which I
took to be Bome kind of Indian lingo for at least a
hippopotamus, or rhinoceros,
" "We shall have rare sport," he continued, " in
catching this dante. It wiU be equal to hunting
the manitus,"
I found, upon inquiry, that the da-nte is called,
in the Mosquito dialect, tilba or tapia, which names
at once suggested tapir, an animal of which I had
read, but of which I had very vague notions.
The Foyer boy seemed delighted with the news
that there was a tapir about, and in less than five
minutes after, both he and Antonio were sharpen-
ing their spears and lances, with palpable design on
my monster's hfe. They told me that the tapir
generally keeps quiet during the day, wandering
HosleflbyGoOgk'
170 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
out at night, usually in fixed haunts and hy the
same paths, to take exercise and obtain his food.
I was not a little relieved when they added that he
never fights with man or beast, hut owes his safety
to his speed, thick hide, and ability to take to the
water, where he is as much at home as on land,
Bwimraing or sinking to the bottom at his pleasure.
He is, nevertheless, a headlong beast, and when
alarmed or pursued, stops at nothing — - vines,
hushes, trees, rocks, are all the same to him !
He would do well for a crest, with the motto,
" Neck or Nothing I"
In shape, the dante or tapir (sometimes called
mountain cow) is something like a hog, but much
larger. He has a similar arched hack ; his head,
however, is thicker, and comes to a sharp ridge at
thp top. The male has a snout or sort of proboscis
hanging over the opening of the mouth, something
like the trunk of an elephant, which he uses in like
manner. This is wanting in the female. Its ears
are rounded, bordered with white, and can be drawn
forward at pleasure ; its legs are thick and stumpy ;
its fore-feet or hoofs are divided into three parts or
toes, with a sort of false hoof behind ; but the
hind feet have only three parts or divisions. Its
tail ia short, and marked by a few stiff hairs ; the
skin so hard and sohd as generally to resist a mus-
ket-hall ; the hair tliin and short, of a dusky
brown ; and along the top of the neck runs a bristly
mane, which extends over the head and down the
snout. He has ten cut ting- teeth, and an equal
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HUNTING THE TAPIK. 171
niuttber of grinders in each jaw ; features which
separate him entirely from the ox-kind, and from
all other ruminating animals. He lives upon plants
and roots, and, as I have said, is perfectly harmless
in disposition. The female produces but one young
at a hirth, of which she is very tender, leading it,
at an early age, to the water, and instructing it to
swim.
This description finished, the reader is ready to
accompany us in our nocturnal expedition against
the tapir. Before it became dark, Antonio, accom-
panied by the boy, went to the thicket which I
have described, and felled several stout trees across
the path, in such a manner as to form a kind of
cul de sac. The design of this was to airest the
animal on his return, and enable us to spear him
before he could break through or disengage himself.
"We went to the spot early in the evening, and, as
the moon did not rise until late, Antonio caught
Ilia hat half-full of fire-flies, which served to guide
us in the bush. He then pulled off their wings and
scattered them among tho faUen trees, where they
gave light enough to enable us to distinguish ob-
jects with considerable clearness. Notwithstanding
Antonio's assurances that the tapir was a member
of the Peace Society, I could not divest myself of
the alarm which he had given me in the morning)
and I was not at all sorry to find that my compan-
ions had selected a spot for their abattis, where an
overhanging treo enabled me to keep out of harm's
way, yet near enough to take a sly drive with my
HosleflbyGoOgk'
172 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
lance at the tapir, if he should happen to come that
way.
Antonio aud the Poyer boy took their stations
among the fallen trees ; I took mine, and ■we await-
ed the dante's pleasure. I strained my eyes in Tain
endeavors to penetrate the gloom, and held my
breath full half the time to hear the expected tread.
But we peered, and listened, and waited in vain ;
the flre-flies crawled away in every direction, and
yet the tapir obstinately kept away. Finally, the
moon came up ; and by-and-hy it rose above the
trees — and still no tapir !
My seat on the tree became uncomfortable, and
I instituted a comparison between tapir and
manitus-hunting, largely to the advantage of the
latter ; and, finally, when Antonio whispered " He
is coming t" I felt a willful disposition to contradict
him. But my ear, meanwhile, caught the same
dull sound which had arrested my attention in the
morning ; and, a few moments afterward, I could
make out the beast, in the dim light, driving on at
the same swinging trot. Eight on he came, heed-
less and headlong. Crash ! crash ! There was a
plunge and struggle, and a crushing and trampling
of branches, then a dnll sound of the heavy beast
striking against the unyielding trunks of the fallen
trees. He was now fairly stopped, and with a
shout my companions drove down upon him with
their lances, which rung out a sharp metallic sound
when they struck his thick, hard hide. It was an
exciting moment, and my eagerness overcoming my
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE AMBUSCADE. 173
pradence, I slipped down the tree, and joined in the
attack. Blow upon blow of the lances, and I could
feel that mine struck deeply into the flesh, it seemed
to me into the very vitals of the animal But the
strokes only appeared to give him new strength,
and gathering back, he drove again full upon the
opposing tree, bearing it down before him. I had
just leaped upon the trunk, the better to aim my
lance, and went down with it hestdlong, almost
under the feet of the struggUng animal, one tramp
of whose feet would have crushed me hke a worm.
I could have touched him with my arm, he was so
near ! I heard the alarmed shriek of Antonio,
when he saw me faU ; but, in an instant, he leaped
HosleflbyGoOgk'
174 THE MOSQUITO SHOBE.
to my side, and, ehortenihg his lance, drove it, with
desperate force, clean through the animal, bring-
ing him to bis knees. This done, he grappled me
as he might an infant, and before I was aware of
it, had dragged me clear of the fallen timber.
The blow of Antonio proved fatal ; the tapir fell
over on his aide, and in a few moments was quite
dead.
The Foyer boy was dispatched to the camp for
fire and pine splints, which, stuck in the ground
around the tapir, answered for torches. By their
light my companions proceeded to cut up the spoil,
a tedious operation, which occupied them until day-
Hght. I did not wait, hut went back to my ham-
mock, leaving them to finish their work, undis-
turbed by my c[uestions.
When I awoke in the morning, I found Antonio
had the tapir's head baking in the ground, from
whence rose a hot but fragrant steam. It proved to
be very good eating, as did also the feet and the
neck, but the flesh of the animal in general was
abominably coarse and insipid, although my com-
panions seemed to relish it greatly. I found it, like
that of the manituB, exceedingly laxative.
Some idea may be formed of the tapir's tenacity
of life, when I say that I counted upward of thirty
lance-thmsts in the body of the one we killed, none
of which were less than sis inches deep, and nearly
all penetrating into the cavity of the body 1 It
rarely happens, therefore, that the animal is killed
by the individual hunter. The hide is quite as
HosleflbyGoOgk'
ANTICS OF THE ANTS. 175
thick, and I tliink harder than that of the manitus,
which, when dried, it closely resembles.
I should weary the reader were I to enter into all
the details of our life at the " Tapir Camp," as I
called it, in honor of the exploit I have just re-
counted. During the eight days which we spent
there, I learned more of nature and her works than
I had known before. I spent hours in watching the
paths of the hlack ants, tracing them to their nests
in the trees, wMch were dark masses, as large as a
barrel, made up of fragments of leaves cemented
together. From these paths, which were from four
to six inches wide, all grass, leaves, sticks, and
other obstructions, had been removed, and along
them poured an unbroken column of ants, thousands
on thousands^ those bound from the nest hurrying
down one side of the path, and those bound in, each
carrying aloft a piece of green leaf, perhaps half an
inch scLuare— a mimic army with banners — ^hurry-
ing up the other. I amused myself, sometimes, by
putting obstructions across the path, and watching
the surging up of the interrupted columns. Then
could be seen fleet couriors hurrying off to the nest,
and directly the path would be crowded with a
heavy reinforcement, invariably headed by eight or
ten ants of larger size, who appeared to be the en-
gineers of the establishment. These would climb
over and all around the obstruction, apparently cal-
culating the chances of effecting its removal. If
not too heavy, they disposed their regiments, and
dragged it away by a. ^and simultaneous effort.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
176 THE MOSQUITO SHORE,
But if, on examiaation, they tliouglit its removal
impossible, they hurried to lay out a road around it,
clearing away the grass, leaves, twigs, and pebbles
with conaummate skill, each column working toward
the other. The best drilled troops could not go
more systematically and intelligently to work, nor
have executed their task with greater alacrity and
energy. No sooner was it done, than, putting
themselves at the head of their worides, the engi-
neers hastened back as they came, ready to obey
the next requisition upon their strength and aldll
Here I may mention that there is no end of ants
under the tropics. They swarm every where, of un-
numbered varieties — from little creatures, of micro-
scopic proportions, to those of the size of our wasp.
It is always necessary, when on land, to hang one's
provisions by cords from the branches of trees, or
they would literally be eaten up in a single night.
There is one variety, called the hormegas, hy the
Spaniards, which has an insatiate appetite for
leather, especially hoots, and will eat them full of
holes in a few hours. All the varieties of acacias
teem with a sniall red, or " fire ant," whose bite is
like the prick of a red-hot needle. The unfortunate
traveler who gets them in any considerable numbers
on his person, is driven to distraction for the time
being. It is difficult to imagine keener torment.
Thousands of small, hght-colored bees gathered
round the fallen trunks of the coyol-palms, to col-
lect the ]ioney-like Hquid that exuded here and
there, as the juice began to ferment. I soon ascer-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
TAPIE CAMP. 17T
tained that they were etingless, and amused myself
in watching their industrious zeal. I gradually
came to observe that when each had gathered his
supply, he rose, by a eucceesion of circuits, higli in
the air, and then darted off in a certain direction.
Carefully watching their course, I finally traced
them to a low, twisted tree, on the edge of the
swamp, in the hollow of which they had their de-
pository. Of course, I regarded this as a fortunate
discovery, and we were not slow to turn it to our
advantage. I had less scruples in cutting down the
tree, and turning the busy little dwellers out on the
world, since they had no winter to provide for, and
could easily take care of themselves. The supply
of honey proved to bo very small, and seemed to
have been collected chiefly for the support of the
young bees. We obtained only four bottles ftdl
from the tree. In taste it proved to be very unlike
our northern honey, having a sharp, pungent, half-
fermented flavor, causing, when eaten pure, a chok-
ing contraction of the muscles of the throat. An-
tonio mixed some of it with the " vino de coyol,"
which, after fermentation, produced a very delicious,
but strong, and most intoxicating kind of liqueur.
On the afternoon of the eighth day, the moon
having reached her last quarter, we packed our
little boat, and just as the night foil, worked our
way slowly through the little, obstructed canal to
the lagoon, which now expanded to the north. We
paddled boldly through the middle, the better to
avoid observation from the shore. The night was
8*
HosleflbyGoOgk'
178 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
dark, but wonderfully still, and I could hear dis-
tinctly the sound of drums and revelry from the
villages on the eastern shore, although they must
have been fuUy three miles distant.
I left " Tapir Camp" with real regret. The days
bad glided by trancLuilly, and I bad enjoyed a calm
content, to which I had before been a stranger.
For the firat time, I was able to comprehend the
feeling, gathering strength with every day, which
induces men, sometimes the moat brilliant and pros-
perous, to banish themselves from the world, and
seek, in utter retirement, the peace which only flows
from a direct converse with nature, and an earnest
self-communion.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
!(Xf^^]E-^1^
LONGr the coafit, frrin the Pimza
pulba nver northwird, is I liave
said, stretches a net-worlv of iivera
and lagoons, for a distance of at least one hundred
and fitty miles, terminating neai Cape &-racias
These lagoons are broad and t,hilluw, and IjorJered
by estenbive marshes Wheiever the diy giuund
does appeir, stiange to saj, it is generillj ib a
sandy sayannah, undulating, and supporting few
trees cTCtpt the led, oi long-lea\ed pine These
savannahs are only adapted lor grazing, since the
soil is too light and poor for cultivation, and fails to
support any of the staple products, or any of the
many esculent vegetables of the tropics, except the
And although the few scattered inhabit-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
180 THE MOSQUITO SHORE,
ants of the Mosquito Shore, above the Prinza-
pnlka, live upon the borders of the lagooua, select-
ing generally the savannahs for their villages, it
is because they are essentially fishers, and derive
their principal support from the sea. The islands
of the coast abound with turtle, and the rivers,
creeks, and lagoons teem with fish of nearly every
variety known under the tropics. The few vegeta-
bles which they require are obtained from the
banks of the rivers in the hack country, where the
streams flow through their proper valleys, and be-
fore they are lost in the low grounds of the coast.
The plantations on these rivers belong to the In-
dians proper, whose numbers increase toward the
interior, and who supply the Sambos, or coast-men,
not only with vegetables, but also with the various
kinds of boats which are used by them, receiving in
exchange a few cottons, axes, trinkets, and other
articles which are brought by the foreign traders.
The character and habits of these Indians are
widely different from those of the coast-men. The
latter are drunken, idle, and vicious, while the
former are mild, industrious, and temperate. The
differenced which I have indicated between the In-
dian settlement on the Rio Grande and the Sambo
village of Wasswatla, hold equally true throughout,
except that the farther the traveler proceeds north-
ward from Bluefields, the more debased and brutal
the Sambos become.
In attempting to thread my way through the
maze of waters before us, I kept the facts which I
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HosleflbyGoOgk'
have recounted constantly in view, and
rather to penetrate inland, than diverge toward the
coast. So, vrhenever two or more channels pre-
sented themselves, I universally took the inside
one. This frequently led us into the rivers flowing
from the interior, hut their current speedily enahled
us to correct these mistakes.
No incident relieved the monotony of our first
night, after leaving " Tapir Camp." Toward morn-
ing we paddled into the first opening in the man-
groves that held out promise of concealment. We
had the usual difficulties to encounter — fallen trees,
and overhanging hmhs ; hut when the morning
hroke we had worked our way to a spot where the
creek expanded into a kind of suhordinate lagoon,
very shallow, and full of sandy islets, partly covered
with grass and water-plants. At one spot on the
shore the ground was elevated a few feet, support-
ing a numher of large and ancient trees, heavily
draped with vines, under wliich we encamped.
After a very frugal meal, mj hammock was sus-
pended between the trees, and I went to sleep.
About noon I awoke, and spent the rest of the day
in watching the various forms of animal life which
found support in these secluded wilds. It seemed
to me as if all the aquatic birds of the world were
connregated there, in harmonious conclave. Long-
shanked herons, with their necks drawn in, and
their yellow bills resting on their breasts, stood
meditatively on a single leg ; troops of the white and
scarlet ibis trotted actively along the open sands ;
HosleflbyGoOgk'
184 THE MOSQUITO SHOEE.
and round-tailed darters, with their enaky necks
and quick eyes, alighted in the trees around us —
the only birds of all that assemblage which seemed
to notice our intmaion ! Then there were cranes,
and gaudy, awkward spoon-billa (clownish million-
aires !) and occasionally a little squadron of blue-
winged teal paddled gracefully by.
Overhead, a few noisy macaws sheltered them-
selves from the noon-day heats. Among these, I
saw, for the first time, the green variety, a more
modest, and, to my taste, a far more beautiful bird,
than his gaudier cousin. The large trees to which
I have alluded, were of the variety known as the
ceiba, or silk-cotton tree. They were now in their
bloom, and crowned with a profusion of flowers of
rich and variegated colors, but chiefly a bright car-
nation. It was a novel spectacle to see a gigantic
tree, five or six feet in diameter, and eighty or
ninety feet high, sending out long and massive
limbs, yet hearing flowers like a rose-bush — a sort
of man-milhner ! Viewed from beneath, the flow-
era were scarcely visible, but their fragrance was
overpowering, and the ground was carpeted with
their gay leaves and delicate petals. But seen
from a little distance, the ceiba-tree in bloom is one
of the most splendid productions of Nature— -a gi-
gantic bouquet, which requires a whole forest to sup-
ply the contrastiug green 1 The flowers are rapidly
succeeded by a multitude of poda, which grow to
the size and shape of a goose-egg. When ripe, they
burst open, revealing the interior filled with a very
HosleflbyGoOgk'
CBIBA-TREli AND BAIN-PLANT. 185
soft, light cotton or silky fibre, attached as floats to
diminutive seeds, which are thus wafted far and
wide by the winds. This process is repeated three
times a year. I am not aware that the cotton has
ever been manufactured, or applied to any more
useful purpose than that of stuffing pillows and
The trunk of the oeiba, however, is invaluable to
the natives. The wood is easily woilced, and is,
moreover, light and buoyant, and not liable to split
by exposure to the sun. For these reasons, it is
principally used for dories, pitpans, and the differ-
ent varieties of boats required on the coast, al-
though, for the smaller canoes, the cedar and ma-
hogany are sometimes substituted. The mahogany
boats, however, are rather heavy, while the cedar is
liable to spUt in what is called " beaching," I have
seen dories hollowed from a single trank of the ce-
bia, in which a tall man might comfortably lie at
length across tke bottom, and which were capable
of carrying fifty persons.
But the oeibas of our encampment supported,
besides their own verdure, a mass of lianes or
climbers, of many varieties, as also, numerous par-
asitic plants, and among them the wild-pine or rain-
plant, which served us a most useful purpose. Sev-
eral of these grew in the principal forks of the trees,
to the height of from four to six feet. Their leaves
are broad, and wrap round on themselves, like a
roll, forming reservoirs, in which the rain aud dew
ja collected and retained, safe from sun and wind.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
186 THE MOSQUITO SHOKE.
Each leaf will liold about a q^uart of water, which
looks clear and tempting in its greeiij translucent
gohlet. Had it not heen for the rain-plant, we
would have suffered very often from thirst, among
those brackish lagoons, where fresh water is ob-
tained with difficulty.
With the night, we resumed our stealthy course
to the northward, guided by the familiar north star,
which here, however, circles so low in the horizon,
as hardly to he visible above the trees. The long
and narrow lagoon contracted more and more, until
it presented a single channel, perhaps a hundred
yards wide, closely lined with mangroves, which,
rising like a wall on both sides, prevented us from
making out the character of the back country. In
passing through some of the numerous bends, I
nevertheless caught star-light glimpses of distant
hills, and high grounds in the direction of the in-
terior. The channel soon began to trend to the
north-east, and there was a considerable current in
that direction. I was concerned lest, notwithstand-
ing all my caution, I had lost the clew to the la-
goons, and taken some one of the outlets into the
sea. We nevertheless kept on, steadily and rapidly,
discovering no signs of habitations on the banks,
until near morning, when my suspicions were con-
firmed by a monotonous sound, which I had no dif-
ficulty in recognizing as the beating of the sea. I
was therefore greatly relieved when the narrow
channel, which we were traveling, expanded sud-
denly into a heautiful lagoon, which I subsequently
HosleflbyGoOgk'
TONGLA LAOOON. 187
ascertained was called "Tongla Lagoon." It is
triangular in shape, extending off to the north-
west.
I was weary of dodging tlie Sambos, and deter-
mined, as the wind was blowing fresh, to put up
our sail, and standing boldly through the lagoon,
take the rislt of recognition and pursuit. Thero
never was a brighter day on earth, and our little
boat seemed emulous to outstrip the wind. Gather-
ing confidence from our speed, I got out my fishing
hue, and, attaching a bit of cotton cloth to the
hook, trailed it after the boat. It had hardly
touched the water before it was caught by a kind
of rook-flah, called snapper by the English resi-
dents, and cowatucker by the Mosquitos. It is only
from ten to twelve inches in length, but broad and
heavy. Antonio recognized it as one of the best of
the small fishes, and I continued the sport of catch-
ing them, until it would have been wanton waste to
have taken more. I found them to be of two
varieties, the red and black, of which the latter
proved to be the most delicate. I also caught two
fish of a larger kind, called baracouta, each about
twenty inches in length, resembling our blue-fish.
It is equally ravenous, and has a like firm and pal-
atable flesh. I am not sure that it is not the true
blue-fish, although I afterward caught some in the
Bay of Honduras which were between three and
four feet in length.
In order to get the fuH benefit of the land-breeze,
we kept well over to the seaward or eastern side
HosleflbyGoOgk'
188 THE MOSQUITO 8H0EE.
of the lagoon. As the lagoon narrowed, our course
gradually brought us close in shore. I had observed
some palm-trees on the same side of the lagoon, but
the ground seemed so low, and tangled with ver-
dure, that I doubted if the trees indicated, as they
usually do, a village at their feet. I nevertheless
maintained a sharp look-out, and kept the boat as
near to the wind as possible, so as to slip by with-
out observation. It was not until we were abreast
of the palms, that I saw signs of human habita-
tions. But then I made out a large number of
canoes drawn up in a little bay, and, through a nar-
row vista in the trees, saw distinctly a considemble
collection of huts. There were also several of the
inhabitants moving about among the canoes.
I observed also that our boat had attracted atten-
tion, and that a number of men were hurrying down
to the sboi-e. I was in hopes that they would be
content with regarding us from a distance, and was
not a little annoyed when I saw two large boats
push from the landing. "We did not atop to specu-
late upon their purposes, hut shook out every thread
of our little sail, and each taking a paddle, we fell
to work with a determination of giving our pursuers
as pretty a chase as ever came off on the Mosquito
Shore. It was now three o'clock in the afternoon,
and I felt confident that we could not be overtaken,
if at all, before night, and then it would be com-
paratively easy to elude them.
Our pursuers had no sails, but their boats were
larger, and numerously manned by men more used
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE chase!- 189
to the paddle than either Antonio or myself. While
the wind lasted, we rather increased our distance,
hut as the sun ivent down the breeze declined, and
our sail hecame useless. So we were ohhged to
take it in, and trust to our paddles, alone. This
gave OUT pursuers new courage, and I could hear
their shouts echoed back from the shores. When
night fell they had shortened their distance to less
than half what it had been at the outset, and were
so near that we could almost make out their words ;
for, during quiet nights, on these lagoons, voices
can he distinguished at the distance of a nule. The
lagoon narrowed more and more, and was evidently
getting to he as contracted as the channel by which
we had entered. This was against us ; for, al-
though we had almost lost sight of our pursuers in
the gathering darkness, our safety depended entirely
upon our slipping, unobserved, into some narrow
creek. But we strained our eyes in vain, to discover
HosleflbyGoOgk'
190 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
such a retreat. The mangroves presented one dark,
unbroken front.
The conviction was now forced upon me that, in
Bpito of all our efforts to avoid it, we were to he
involved in a second fight. I laid aside my paddle,
and got out my gun. And now I experienced again
the same ague-like sensations which I have de-
scribed as preceding our struggle on the Prinza-
pulba. It required the utmost effort to keep my
teeth from chattering audibly. I had a singular
and painful sensation of fullness about the heart.
So decided were all these phenomena, that, not-
withstanding our danger, I felt glad it was so dark
that my companions could not see my weakness.
But soon the reins in my temples began to swell
with blood, pulsating with tense sharpness, like the
vibration of a bow-string ; and then the muscles
became rigid, and firm as iron. I was ready for
blood ! Twice only have I experienced these terri-
ble sensations, and God grant that they may never
agonize my nerves again !
Our enemies were now so near that I was on tho
point of venturing a random long shot at them,
when, with a suppressed exclamation of joy, Anto-
nio suddenly turned our canoe into a narrow creek,
where the mangroves separated, like walls, on either
side. Where we entered, it was scarcely twenty
feet wide, and soon contracted to ten or twelve.
We ghded in rapidly for perhaps two hundred
yards, when Antonio stopped to listen. I heard
nothing, and gave the word to proceed. But the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
SUCCESSrUL DEVICE. 191
crafty Indian said " No ;" and, earefnlly leaning
over the edge of the boat, plunged his head in the
water. He held it there a few seconds, then started
up, exclaiming, " They are coming !" Again we
hent to the paddles, and drove the boat up the
narrow creek with incredible velocity,
I was 80 eager to get a shot at our pursuers that
I scarcely comprehended what he meant, when,
stopping suddenly, Antonio pressed his paddle in
my hands, and, exchanging a few hurried words
with the Poyer boy, each took a machete in his
mouth, and leaped overboard. I felt a eudden
suspicion that they had deserted me, and remained
for the time motionless. A moment after, they
called to me from the shore, " Paddle ! paddle !"
and, at the same instant, I heard the blows of their
machetes ringing on the trunks of the mangroves.
I at once comprehended that they were felling trees
across the narrow creek, to obstruct the purauit ;
and I threw aside the paddle, and took my gun
again, determined to protect my devoted friends, at
any hazard. I never forgave myself for my mo-
mentary but ungenerous distrust !
Our pursuers heard the sound of the blows, and,
no doubt comprehending what was going on, raised
loud shouts, and redoubled their speed. Kling !
Ming .' rang the machetes on the hard wood ! Oh,
how I longed to hear the crash of the falling trees !
Soon one of them began to crackle — another blow,
and down it fell, the trunk splashing gloriously in
the water t Another crackle, a rapid rastling of
HosleflbyGoOgk'
192 THE MOSQUITO 8H0BE.
branches, and aaothcr splash in the water ! It was
our turn to shout now !
I gave Antonio and the Poyer boy each a hearty em-
brace, aa, dripping with water, they clambered back
into our little boat. "We iiowpushed a fewyardeup the
stream, stopped close to the slimy bank, and awaited
our pursuers. "Come on, now," I shouted, "and
not one of you shall pass that rude barrier alive I"
Tho first boat ran boldly up to the fallen trees,
hut tho dischai^e of a single barrel of my gun sent
it back, precipitately, out of reach. We could
distinguish a hurried conversation between the
occupants of the first boat and of the second, when
the latter came up. It did not last long, and when
it stopped, Antonio, in a manner evincing more
alarm than he had ever before exhibited, caught
me by the arm, and explained hurriedly that the
second boat was going back, and that the narrow
creek, in which we were, no doubt communicated
with the principal channel by a second mouth.
While one boat was thus blockading us in front,
the second was hastening to assaU us in the rear I
I comprehended the movement at once. Our dehb-
eration was short, for our lives might depend upon
an improvement of the minutes. Stealthily, scarce
daring to breathe, yet with the utmost rapidity
possible, we pushed up the creek. As Antonio had
conjectured, it soon began to curve back toward
the estuary. Wo had pursued our course perhaps
ten or fifteen minutes — they seemed hours ! — when
we overheard the approach of the second boat.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
FINAL ESCAPE. 198
We at once drew ours close to the bank, in the
gloomiest covert we could find. On came the boat,
the paddlers, secure of the success of their device,
straining themselves to the utmost. There was a
moment of keen suspense, and, to our inexpressible
relief, the boat passed by us. We now resumed
our paddles, and hastened on our course. But before
we entered the principal channel, my companions
clambered into the overhanging mangroves, and in
an incredibly short space of time had fallen other
trees across the creek, so as completely to shut in
the boat which had attempted to surprise us.
The device was successful ; we soon emerged from
the creek, and the sea-breeze having now set in,
favorably to our course, we were able to put up our
sail, and defy pursuit. We saw nothing afterward
of our eager friends of Tongla Lagoon !
Some time past midnight we came to another and
larger lagoon, called " Wava Lagoon,"- and, weary
and exhausted from nearly two days of wakefulness,
hard labor, and excitement, we ran our boat ashore
on a little island, which presented itself, and drag-
ged it up into the hushes. We kindled a fire, cook-
ed our fish, and then I lay down in the canoe, and
went to sleep. I had entire confidence that we
would not be pursued further, as we were now a
long way from the coast, and in the country of the
unmixed Indians, who, so far from recognizing the
assumptions of the Sambos, hold an attitude so de-
cidedly hostile toward them that the latter seldom
venture into their territory.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
194 THE MOSQUITO SHOEE.
I awoke near noon, but unrefreshed, with a dull
pain in my head, a sensation of chilliness, great las-
situde, and an entire absence of appetite. Had
our encampment been more favorable, I should not
have attempted to move ; but the island was small,
without water, and, moreover, too near the channel
leading to Tongla Lagoon to be a desirable resting-
place, So we embarked about midday, and stood
across the lagoon for its western shore, where the
ground appeared to rise rapidly, and high blue
mountains appeared in the distance. The sun
shone out clearly, and the day was sultry, but my
chilliness increased momentarily, and, in less than
an hour after leaving the island, I foimd myself
lying in the bottom of the canoe, wrapped in my
blanket, and for the first time in my hfe, suffering
from the ague. The attack lasted for full two
hours, and was followed by a bursting pain in my
head, and a high fever, I had also duU pains in
ray back and limbs, whieh were more difficult to be
borne than others more acute.
At four o'clock in the afternoon, Antonio put
*;he boat in shore — ^for I was too iU to give direc-
tions — where a bluff point ran out into the lagoon,
forming a small bay, with a smooth, sandy beach.
A little savannah, similar to that which I have de-
scribed at Tapir Camp, extended back from the
bluff, near the centre of which, at its highest point,
which commanded a beautiful view of the lagoon,
rose a single clump of pines. Here my companions
HosleflbyGoOgk'
FEVBK CAMP, 196
carried me in my hammock, and here they liaetily
arranged our camp.
When the eun went down, my fever Buhsided,
but was followed by a profuse and most debihtating
sweat. Meantime Antonio had collected a few nuta
of a kind which, I afterward ascertained, is called
by the English of the West Indies physic-nut
{jatropha), which grows on a low bush, on all parts
of the coast. These he rapidly prepared, and admin-
istered them to me. They operated powerfully, both
as an emetic and cathartic. "When their effects had
ceased, I fell asleep, and slept until morning, when
I awoke weak, hut free from pain, or any other symp-
tom of illness. I congratulated myself and An-
tonio, but he dampened my spirits sensibly by ex-
plaining that, however well I might feel for that
day, I would be pretty sure to have a recuiTcnce of
fi^ver on the next. And to mitigate the severity of
this, if not entirely to prevent it, he presented to me
a calabash, of reddish-looking lic[uid, which he called
cinchona, and told me to drink deeply. Heavens 1 I
shall never forget the bitter draught, which he com-
mended to my unwilling lips every two hours during
that black day in my calendar I I know what it is
now, for my Mosquito experiences have entailed
upon me a sneaking fever and ague, which avails
itself of every pretext to remind me that we are in-
separable. Looking to my extensive consumption
of quinine, I have marveled, since my return, that
the price of the drug has not been doubled ! Others
may look at the stock quotations, but my principal
HosleflbyGoOgk'
196 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
interest in the commercial department of the morn-
ing paper, ia the " ruling rate" of qwinine ! Not
having, as yet, discovered any considerable advance,
I begin to doubt the dogma of the economists, that
" the price is regulated by the demand."
Antonio was right. The next day came, and at
precisely twelve o'clock came also the chill, the
fever, the dull pains, and the perspiration, but all in
a more subdued form. I escaped the physic-nuts,
but the third day brought a new supply of the bit-
ter liq^uiii, which Antonio told me was decocted
from bark taken from the roots of a species of
mangrove-tree. I have never seen it mentioned
that the cinchona is found in Central America, but,
nevertheless, it is there, or something so nearly like
it, in taste and effects, as to be undistinguishable.
Thin slips of the bark, put into a bottle of rum,
made a sort of cordial or bitters, of which I took
about a wine-glassful every morning and evening,
during the remainder of my stay on the coast, with
beneficial results.
I had three recurrences of the fever, but the sun
passed the meridian on the sixth day without biing-
ingwith it an attack — thanks to the rude but effect-
ive "healing art" of my Indian companions. Ex-
perience had taught them about all, I think, that
has ever been learned in the way of treatment of
indigenous complaints. It is only exotic diseases, or
sweeping epidemics, that carry death and desolation
among the aborigines, whose ignorance of their na-
ture and remedies invests them with a terror which
HosleflbyGoOgk'
PBIMITIVE PHYSIC, 197
enhances the mortality. Not only was the - treat-
ment to which I was subjected thoroughly correct,
hut the dieting was perfect. The only food that
was given to me consisted of the seeds of the okra
(which is indigenous on the coast), flavored by
being boiled with the legs and wings of quails, and
small bits of dried manitee flesh. I only outraged
the notions of my rude physiciaps in one respect,
viz., in insisting on being allowed to wash myself.
The Indians seem to think that the effect of water
on the body, or any part of it, during the period of
a fever, is little less than mortal — a singular notion,
which may have some foundation in experience, if
not in reason. The Spaniards, wisely or fooUshly,
entertain the same prejudice ; and, furthermore,
shut themselves up closely in dark rooms, when at-
tacked by fever. At such times they scarcely com-
mend themselves pleasantly to any of the senses.
From the open, airy elevation where our camp
was estahhshed, as I have already said, we had an
extensive and beautiful view of the lagoon. We
saw canoes, at various times, skirting the western
shore, and, from the smote which rose at intervals,
we were satisfied that there were there several Indian
villages. As soon, therefore, as I thought myself re-
covered from my fever, which was precisely at one
o'clock past meridian, on the sixth day (the fever
due at noon not having " come to time"), I was
ready to proceed to the Indian towns. But our de-
parture was delayed for two days more by an un-
fortunate occurrence, which came near depriving
HosleflbyGoOgk'
198 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
the Foyer boy of his life, and me of a valuable as-
sistant ; for, while Antonio was supreme on land,
the Poycr boy was the leader on the water, I al-
ways called him — Mosquito fashion — " admiral."
It aeems that, while engaged in gathering dry
wood, he took hold of a fallen branch, under which
was coiled a venomous snake, known as the tama-
gasa (called by the English tommy-gojf, and the
MoacLuitos piuta^sura, or the poison snake). He
had scarcely put down his hand when it struck
him in the arm. He killed it, grasped it by the
tail, and hurried to our camp, I was much alarm-
ed, for his agitation was extreme, and his face and
whole body of an ashy color, Antonio was not at
hand, and I was at an utter loss what to do, beyond
tying a ligature tightly around the arm. The
Foyer, however, retained his presence of mind, and,
unrolling a mysterious little bundle, which con-
tained his scanty wardrobe, took out a nut of about
the size and much the appearance of a horse-chest-
nut, which he hastily crushed, and, mixing it with
water, drank it down, Ey this time Antonio had
returned, and, learning the state of the ease, seized
his machete, and hastened away to the low groimds
on the edge of the savannah, whence he came back,
in the course of half an hour, with a quantity of
some kind of root, of which I have forgotten the
Indian name. It had a strong smell of musk, im-
possible to distinguish from that of the genuine
civet. This he crushed, and formed into a land of
poultice, bound it on the woiinded arm, and gave the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
ABOUT SNAKES. 199
boy to drink a strong infusion of the same. This
done, he led him down to the beach, dug a hole in
the moist sand, in which he buried his arm to the
shoulder, pressing the sand closely around it. I
thought this an emphatic kind of treatment, which
might be good for Indians, but which would be
pretty sure to kill white men. The boy remained
with his arm buried during the entire night, but,
nest morning, barring being a little pale and weak
from the effects of these powerful remedies, he was
as well as ever, and resumed bis usual occupations,
A light blue scratch alone indicated the place
where he had been bitten.
The tamagasa (a specimen of which I subse-
q^uently obtained, and which now occupies a distin-
guished place among the reptiles in the Philadel-
phia Academy), is about two feet long. It is of
the thickness of a man's thumb, with a lai^e, flat
head, and a lump in the neck something like that of
the cobra, and is marked with alternate black and
dusky white rings. It is reputed one of the most
venomous serpents under the tropics, ranking nest
to the beautiful, but deadly corral.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HEOM our miBfirtunes I named our
I en impment n Wa%i Lagoon
Fe\ei Canp altli u^h o far
fiom contra ting the fe^er theie I im sme it was
its open ai d elevated pos tion which contiil uted to
my recovery The fev r was rather due to over ex
ertion and expo ure at ni^ht foi the ni^ht damps
on all 1 w 01 t Tinier the tropics aio unijuestion
ibly deadly and the tra^elei cannot he too careful
m avoiding them Early m the afternoon of the
day of our depaiture from Fever Camp wc en
ttred a Hrge streim flowing mto the lagoo i from
the n rth we t upcn the bank& of which judging
fiom the duection of the bmoke we had seen the
Indian villages weie situated We weie not m s
taken Before night we came to a village larger
HosleflbyGoOgk'
TOWKAS VILIAQE. 201
than that on the Rio Grande, but in other respects
much the same, except that it stood upon the edge
of an extensive saYannah, instead of on the skirt of
an impenetrable forest. Around it were extensive
plantations of cassava, and other fruits and vege-
tables, growing in the greatest luxuriance, and indi-
cating that the soil of the inland savannahs does not
share the aridity of those nearer the coast. This
was further evinced by the scarcity of pines,
which were only to be seen on the ridges or gentle
elevations with which the surface of the savannah
was diversified.
Our appearance here created the same excite-
ment which it had occasioned at the other places we
had visited, and our reception was much the same
with that which we bad experienced on the Eio
Grande. Instead, however, of being met by men
with wands, we were welcomed by five old men, one
of whom vacated his own hut for our accommoda-
tion. None here could speak either English or
Spanish intelligibly, but the affinity between their
language and that of my Poyer enabled him to
make known our wants, and obtain all usefid infor-
mation. We were treated hospitably, but with the
utmost reserve, and during my whole stay, but a
single incident relieved the monotony of the village.
This was a marriage— and a very ceremonious affair
it was.
These Indiana, I should explain, are called Tow-
kas, or Toacas, and have, I presume, all the general
characteristics and habits of the Oookrasand Wool-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
202 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
was. These do, in fact, constitute a single family,
although displaying dialectical differences in their
Among all these Indians, polygamy is an excep-
tion, while among the Sambos it is the rule. The
instances aie few in which a man has more than one
wife, and m theie cases the eldest is not only the
head of the family, hut exercises a strict supervision
over the others The hetrothals -are made at a very
early age, hy the parents, and the affianced children
are marked in a corresponding manner, bo that one
acquainted with the practice can always point out
the various mates. These marks consist of little
hands of colored cotton, worn either on the arm,
ahove the elbow, or on the leg, below the knee,
which are varied in color and number, so that no
two combinations in the village shall be the same.
The combinations are made by the old men, who take
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A TOWKA MARKIACJE. 203
care tliat there shall he no confusion. The bands
are replaced from time to time; as they become
worn and faded. Both boys and girls also wear a
necldace of variously-colored shells or heads, to
which one is added yearly. "When the necklace of
the hoy counts ten heads or shells, he is called
•mukasal, a word signifying three things, viz., ten,
,all the fingers, and half-a-man. When they mimber
twenty, he is called 'all, a word which also signifies
three things, viz., twenty, both fingers and toes,
and a man. And he is then effectively regarded as
a man. Should his affianced, by that time, have
reached the age of fifteen, the marriage ceremony
takes place without delay.
As I have said, a sleek young Towka waa called
upon to add. the final bead to his string, and take
upon himself the obligations of manhood, during
my stay at the village. The event had been an-
ticipated by the preparation of a canoe full of
palm-wine, mixed with crushed plantains, and a
little honey, which had been fermenting, to the
utter disgust of my nostrils, from the date of my
arrival. The day was observed as a general holiday.
Early in the morning all the men of the village as-
sembled, and with their Imives carefully removed
every blade of grass which had grown up inside of
a circle, perhaps a hundred feet in diameter, situ-
ated in the very centre of the village, and indicated
by a succession of stones sunk in the ground. The
earth was then trampled smooth and hard, after
which they proceeded to erect a little hut in the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
204 THE MOSQUITO SHOEE.
very ceiitre of the circular area, above a large flat
stone which was permanently planted there. This
hut was made conical, and perfectly close, except
an opening at the top, and another at one side,
toward the east, which was temporarily closed with
a mat, woven of palm-bark. I looked in without
hinderance, and saw, piled up on the stone, a quan-
tity of the dry twigs of the copal-tree, covered with
the gum of the same. The canoo full of liquor was
dragged up to the edge of the circle, and literally
covered with small white calabashes, of the size of
aji ordinary coffee-cup.
At noon, precisely, all the people of the village
hurried, without order, to the hut of the bride-
groom's father. I joined in the crowd. We found
the " happy swain " arrayed in his best, sitting de-
murely upon a bundle of articles, closely wrapped in
a mat. The old men, to whom I have referred,
formed in a line in front of him, and the eldest
made him a short address. When he had fin-
ished, the next followed, until' each had had his
say. The youth then got up quietly, shouldered
his bundle, and, preceded by the old men, and
followed by his father, marched off to the hut
of the prospective bride. He put down his load
before the closed door, and seated himself upon it
in silence. The father then rapped at the door,
which was partly opened hy an old woman, who
asked him what he wanted, to which he made some
reply which did not appear to be satisfactory, when
the door was shut in his face, and he took his seat
HosleflbyGoOgk'
PRESENra PROPIATOKY. 205
tesideliis son. One of the old men then rapped,
■with precisely the same result, then the next, and
so on. But the old women were obdurate. The
bridegroom's father tried it again, but the she-
dragons would not open the door. The old men
then seemed to hold a council, at the end of which
a couple of drums (made, as I have already ex-
plained, by stretching a raw skin over a section of a
hoUow tree), and some rude flutes were sent for.
The latter were made of pieces of bamboo, and were
shaped somewhat like flageolets, each having a
mouth-piece, and four stops. The sound was dull
and monotonous, although not whoUy unmusical.
Certain musicians now appeared, and at once
commenced playing on these instruments, breaking
out, at long intervals, in a kind of supplicatory
chant. After an hour or more of this soothing and
rather sleepy kind of music, the inexorable door
opened a little, and one of the female inmates
glanced out with much affected timidity. Here-
upon the musicians redoubled their efforts, and the
bridegroom hastened to unroll his bundle. It con-
tained a variety of articles supposed to be accept-
able to the parents of the girl. There was, among
other things, a machete, no inconsiderable present,
when it is understood that the cost of one is gener-
ally a large dory, which it requires months of toil
to fashion from the rough trunk of the gigantic
ceiba. A string of gay glass beads was also pro-
duced from the bundle. All these articles were
handed in to the women one by one, by the father
HosleflbyGoOgk'
206 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
of the groom. With every present the door opened
wider and wider, until the mat was presented, when
it was turned hack to its utmoetj reveahng the
bride arrayed in her "prettiest," seated on a
crickery, at the remotest comer of the hut. The
dragons affected to he absorhed in examining the
presents, when the bridegroom, watching his oppor-
tunity, dashed into the hut, to the apparent utter
horror and dismay a£ the women ; and, grasping the
girl hy the waist, shouldered her like a sack, and
started off at a trot for the mystic circle, in the centre
of the village. The women pursued, as if to over-
take him and rescue the girl, uttering cries for help,
wliile all the crowd huddled after. But the youth
was too fast for them ; he reached the ring, and
lifting the vai! of the hut, disappeared within it.
The women could not pass the circle, and all
stopped short at its edge, and set up a chorus of
despairing shrieks, while the men all gathered
within the charmed ring, where they squatted them-
selves, row on row, facing outward. The old men
alone remained standing, and a bit of hghted pino
having meanwhile been brought, one of them ap-
proached the hut, Kfted the mat, and, handing in
the fire, made a brief speech to the inmates. A
few seconds after an aromatic smoke curled up from
the opening in the top of the little hut, from which
I infer that the copal had been set on fire. What
else happened, I am svne I do not know !
When they eaw the smoke, the old women grew
silent and expectant ; but, by-and-by, when it suh-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
MABKIAGE FESTIVAL. 207
sided, they became suddenly gay, and " went in
strong" for the feetmties, whicli, up to this time, I
must confess, I had thought rather slow. But here
I may explain, that although the bridegroom haa
no choice in the selection of his wife, yet if he have
reason for doing BO, he may, while the copal is
burning, take her in his arms, and cast her outside
of the circle, in the open day, before the entire peo-
ple, and thus rid himself of her forever. But in
this ease, the matter is carefully investigated by the
old men, and woe betide the wretch who, by this
pubhc act, has impeached a girl wrongfully ! Woe
ec^ually betide the girl who is proved to have been
" put away" for good reasons. If, however, the copal
burns out quietly, the groom is supposed to be sat-
isfied, and the marriage is complete.
The copal, in this instance, burned out in the
most satisfactory manner, and then the drums and
flutes struck up a most energetic air, the music of
which consisted of about eight notes, repeated with
difterent degrees of rapidity, by way of giving va-
riety to the melody. The men all kept their
places, while I was installed in a seat of honor be-
side the old men. The women, who, as I have
said, could not come within the circle, now com-
menced filling the calabashes from the canoe, and
passing them to the squatting men, commencing
with the ancients and the "distinguished guests" — for
Antonio and my Foyer were included in our p&ty.
There was nothing said, but the women displayed
the greatest activity in fihing the emptied cala-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
208 THE- MOSQUITO SHORE,
bashes, I scKin discovered that every body was de-
liberately and in cold blood getting up of what
Captain Drummer called the "big drunk !" That
■was part of the performance of the day, and the
Indians went at it in the most orderly and expedi-
tious manner. They wasted no time in coyish pre-
liminaries — a practice which might be followed in
,more civilized countries, to the great economy, not
only of time, but of the vinous. It was not from
the love of the drink that the Towkas imbibed, I
can well believe, for their chicha was bad to look at,
and worse to taste.
With the fourth round of the calabashes, an oc-
casional shout betrayed the effects of the chicha
upon some of the weaker heads. These shouts be-
came more and more frequent, and were sometimes
uttered with a savage emphasis, which was rather
startling. The musicians, too, became more ener-
getic, and as the sun declined, the excitement rose,
until, unable to keep quiet any longer, aU hands
got up, and joined in a slow, swinging step around
the circle, beating with their knuckles on the empty
calabashes, and joining at intervals in a kind of re-
frain, at the end of which every man struck the
bottom of his calabash against that of his neigh-
bor. Then, aa they came round by the canoe, each
one dipped his calabash full of the contents. The
liquid thus taken up was drunk at a single draught,
and then the dance went on, growing more rapid
with eyery dip of the calabash, It got to the stage
of a trot, and then a fast pace, and finally into
HosleflbyGoOgk'
DEAD drunk! 'ZW
something little eliort of a gallop, 1311* still in per-
fect time. The rattling of the calabashes had now
grown so rapid, as almost to he continuous, and the
motion so involved and quick, that, as I watched it,
I felt that kind of giddiness which one often expe-
riences in watching the gliding of a swift current
of water. This movement could not he kept up
long, even with the aid of chicha, and whenever a
dancer became exhausted, he would wheel out of
line, and throw himself flat on his face on the
ground. Finally, every one gave in, except two
young follows, who seemed determined to do, in
their way, what other fast young men, in other
countries, sometimes undertake to accomplish, viz. :
drink each other down, or " under the tablo." They
danced and drunk, and were applauded by the wo-
men, but were so closely matched that it was im-
possible to tell which had the best chance of keep-
ing it up longest. In fact, each seemed to despair
of the other, and, as if by a common impulse, both
threw aside their calabashes, and resolved the con-
test from a trial of endurance into one of strength,
leaping at each other's throats, and fastening their
teeth like tigers in each other's flesh.
There was instantly a great uproar, and those of
the men who had the abihty to stand, clustered
around the combatants in a confused mass, shout-
ing at the stretch of their lungs, and evidently, as I
thought, regarding it as a " free fight." But there
was little damage done, for the old men, though
emphatically "tight," had discretion enough to send
HosleflbyGoOgk'
210 THE M08QUITO BHOttE.
the women for thongs, with which the pugnacious
youths were incontinently bound hand and foot, and
dragged close to the hut in the centre, and there
left to cool themselves off as they were hest able, no
one taking the shghtest notice of them, " Verily,"
I ejaculated to myself, " wisdom tnoweth no
country."
The dance which I have described was resumed
from time to time, until it became CLuite dark, when
the women brought a large number of pine splinters,
of which the men each took one. These were lighted,
and then the dancers paced up to the little hut, and
each tore off one of the branches of which it was
built, finally disclosing the newly-mamed couple
sitting demurely side by side. As soon as the hut
was demolished, the groom quietly took his bride
on his back — ^hterally " shouldering the responsibil-
ity !" — and marched off to the hut which had previ-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A SWEET SAVANNAH. 211
oualy been built for his accomniodation, escorted by
the procession of men with torches. This was the
final ceremony of the night, although some of the
more dissipated youths returned to the canoe, and
kept up a drumming, and piping, and dancing,
until morning. Next day every body brought pres-
ents of some land to the newly-married pair, so as
to give them a fair start in the world, and enable
them to commence life on ecLual terms with the best
in the village.
It would be difficult to find on earth any thing
more beautiful than the savannah which spread out,
almost as far as the eye could reach, behind the
Towkas vzUage. Along the river's bank rose a tan-
gled wall of verdure ; giant ceibas, feathery palms,
and the snake-like trunks of the mata-pah, all
bound together, and draped over with cable-like
lianes, (the tie-tie of the English,) and the tena-
cious tendrils of myriads of creeping and fiowering
plants. Unlike the wearying, monotonous prairies
of the West, the savannah was relieved by clumps of
acacias — among them the delicate-leaved gum-ar-
abic — palmettos, and dark gi-oups of pines, arranged
with such harmonious disorder, and admirable pic-
turesque effect, that I conld scarcely believe the
hand of art had not lent its aid to heighten the ef-
forts of nature in her happiest mood.
Finding retreats in the dense coverts of the jun-
gles on the river's bank, or among the clustering
groups of bushes and trees, the antelope and deer,
the Indian rabbit and giheonite, wandered securely
HosleflbyGoOgk'
212 THE MOSQUITO SHOEE.
over the savannah, nipping the young grass, iw
chasing each other in mimic alarm. Here, too,
might be observed the crested cnrassow, with his
stately step, the plumptitudinous qualm, and the
crazy chachaica, (cogMencoi,) besides innumerable
quails— -all fitting food for omnivorous man, hut so
seldom disturbed as not to recognize him as their
most dangerous enemy. Then night and morning
the air was filled with deafening parrots, noisy ma-
caws, and quick-darting, chattering paroquets.
I rose early every day, and with my gun in my
hand, strayed far over the savannah, inhaling the
freshness of the morning air, and shooting such
game as looked fat, tender, and otherwise accept-
able to my now fastidious appetite. The curaesow,
(called cosm by the Mosquitos,) is one of the finest
birds in the world. It is about the size of the tur-
key, but has stronger and longer legs. The plumage
is dark brown or black, ash-colored about the neck,
and of a reddish brown on the breast. On its head
it has a crest of white feathers tipped with black,
which it raises and depresses at pleasure. The flesh
is whiter than that of a turkey, but rather dry, re-
quiring a different mode of cooking than is practiced
in the woods, to bring out its qualities in perfection.
It is easily tamed, as are also the qiicdin and cha-
ckalaca. The latter, when old, is tough, but when
young, its flesh cannot be surpassed for delicacy
and flavor.
The animal called the Indian rabbit is very
numerous, and is a variety of what, in South Amer-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
-EPISODE EPICUEIAN. 313
ica, is called the agouti. It is atout the size of a
rabbit : body plump ; snout long, and rather sharp ;
nose divided at the tip, and upper jaw longer than
the lower ; hind legs longer than the anterior ones,
and furnished with but three toes ; tail short, and
scarcely visible, while its body is covered with a
hard, shining, reddish-brown hair, freckled with
dark spots. It lives upon vegetables, holds its food
in eating, Hko a sq^uirrel, and has a vicious propen-
sity for biting and gnawing whatever it comes near.
5'or this reason it is a nuisance in the neighborhood
of plantations, and, as it multiplies rapidly, it is
about the only animal which is hunted systemati-
cally by the Indians. Its flesh is only passable.
The gibeonite (cavia-paca), sometimes called
pig-rabbit, closely resembles the guinea-pig, biit is
something larger. The head is round ; the muzzle
short and black ; the upper jaw longer than the
lower ; the lip divided^ like that of a hare ; the
nostrils large, and the whiskers long ; eyes brown,
large, and prominent ; ears short and naked ; neck
thick ; body very plump, larger behind than be-
fore, and covered with coarse, short hair, of a
dusky brown color, deepest on the back ; the
throat, breast, inside of the limbs, and beUy dingy
white ; and on each side of the body are live rows
of dark spots, placed close to each other. The legs
are short, the feet have five toes, with strong nails,
and the tail is a simple conic projection. Its flesh
is pecuHarly juicy and rich, and, baked in the
ground, the animal makes a dish for an epicure. I
HosleflbyGoOgk'
214 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
"believe I did not let a day pass without having a
hated gibeontte.
Among the Indians of the village, the eggs and
flesh of the river turtle were favorite articles of
food ; and in constantly using them, I thought they
eviueed a proper appreciation of what is good.
There are two varieties of these turtles, one called
hocatoro (Mo8C[mto chouswat), and the other heca-
iee. The latter is seldom more than eighteen inches
long, hut its shell is very deep. We cooked them
by simply separating the lower shell, taking out the
entrails, and stuffing the cavity with cassava,
pieces of plantain, manitee fat, and various condi-
ments, then wrapping it in plantain leaves, as I
have described, and turning it back down, baking
it in the ground. It always required a good bed of
coals to cook it properly, but when rightly done, the
result was a meal preeminently savory and palata-
ble. The Indian boys brought, hteraUy, bushels of
the eggs of these, turtles from the bars and sand-
spits of the river and lagoon. These are very deli-
cate when entirely fresh.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
3 were not many days m exhausting
j tlie resources of the Towkas village,
in the way of adventures ; and, one
%$ '('',//! Bunny afternoon, packed our little
"boat, and, bidding our entertainers good-hy, pad-
dled down the river, on our voyage to Sandy Bay-
next to Elueiields, the principal Sambo establish-
ment on the coast. Our course lay, a second time,
through Wava Lagoon, which connects, by a nar-
row and intricate channel or creek, with a larger
lagoon to the northward, called Duckwarra. The
night was quiet and beautiful — the crescent moon
fining the air with a subdued and dreamy light,
soothing and slumbrous, and so blending the real
with the ideal that I sometimes imagine it might
all have been a dream t My companions, if they
did not share the influences of the night, at least
respected my silence, and we glided on and on,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
216 THE MOSQUITO SHORE,
without a sound save the steady dip of the paddles,
and the gentlo ripple of the water, which closed in
mimic whirlpools on our track.
"When morning broke, we had already entered
Duckwarra Lagoon, the largest we had encountered
since leaving Pearl-Cay. It had the same appear-
ance with all the others, and, having nothing to de-
tain us, we steered directly across, only stoppii^
near noon on one of the numerous islets, to cook
our breakfast, and escape the midday heats. This
islet was, perhaps, two hundred yards across, and
elevated in the centre some fifteen or twenty feet
above the water. Near the apex were growing a
number of ancient palms, and, strolling up to them,
I found at their roots a small elevation, or tumu-
lus, perhaps fifteen feet in diameter at the base,
and five or six feet high. Its regularity arrested
jny attention, and led me to heheve that it was ar-
tiiicial. I called to Antonio, who at once pro-
nounced it a burying-place of the " Antiguos." I
proposed opening it, but my companions seemed
loth to disturb the resting-place of the dead. How-
ever, finding that I had commenced the work with-
out them, they joined me, and with our machetes
and paddles, we rapidly removed the earth. Near
the original surface of the ground, wc came to some
bones, but they were so much decayed that they
crumbled beneath the fingers. Uncovering them
further, we found at the head of the skeleton a
rude vase, which was got out without much dam-
age. Carefully removing the earth from the interior
HosleflbyGoOgk'
ABOBltflNAL BELIi
211
I found that it contained a ntmiber of chalcedonic
pebbles, pierced as if for beads, a couple of arrow-
heads of similar material, and a small ornament of
thin, plate gold, rudely representing a human fig-
ure, as shown in the accompanying engraving, which
is of the size of the original At the feet of the
skeleton we also discovered another small
vaee of coarse pottery, which, however, con-
tained no relics, Antonio seemed much (
interested in the little golden image, but
finally, after minute examination, returned
it to me, saying, that although his O'
people in Yucatan often buried beneath
tumuli, and had golden idols which they
placed with the dead, yet, in workmanship,
they were unhte the one we had discovered,
" Ah I" he continued, his eyes lighting
with nuusual fire, " you should see the works of our
ancestors ! They were gods, those ancient, holy
men ! Their temples were huilt for them hj Kabul,
the Lord of the Powerful Hand, who set the seal of
his bloody palm upon them aU ! You shall go with
me to the sacred lake of the Itzaes, where our
people are gathered to receive the directions of the
Lord of Teaching, whose name is Votan Balam, who
led our fathers thither, and who has promised to
rescue them from their afflictions !"
He stopped suddenly, as if alarmed at what he
had said, kissed his talisman, and relapsed again
into the quiet, mild-eyed Indian hoy, eubmiBsively
awaiting my orders.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
218 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
We left Duetworra Lagoon by a creek connecting
it with Sandy Bay Lagoon, and on the second after-
noon from Wava Eiver, amved at the Samho settle-
ment, which is on its southern shore, about eight
miles from the sea. It stands upon the edge of a
savannah, that rises to the southward and east-
ward, forming, toward the sea, a series of bluffs,
the principal of which is called Bragman's Bluff,
and is the most considerable land-mark on the
coast.
The town has something the appearance of Blue-
iields, and contains perhaps five hundred inhabit-
ants, who affect " English fashion" in dress and
modes of living. That is to say, many of them
wear Engfish hats, even when destitute of every
other article of clothing, except the toumou, or
breech-cloth. These hats are of styles running
back for thirty years, and, moreover, crushed into a
variety of shapes which are infinitely ludicrous,
especially when the wearers affect gravity or d^-
nity. A naked man cannot make himself abso-
lutely ridiculous, for nature never exposes her crea-
tions to humihation ; bnt the attempts at art, in
f up the man on the Mosquito Shore, I must
, were melancholy failures.
Before we got to the village, the beating of drums,
and the occasional firing off of muskets, announced
that some kind of a feast or celebration was going
on. As we approached nearer I saw the English
flag displayed upon a tall bamboo, planted in the
centre of a group of huts. I saw also a couple of
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE SAMBOS OF SANDY BAY. 211?
boats, of European construction, drawn up on the
beach, frum which I inferred that thero must he a
trading vessel on the coast, and that I was just in
time to -witness cue of the orgies which always fol-
low upon such an event, I had had some misgiv-
ings as to the probable reception we fihould meet, in
case the news of our affair with the Quamwatlaa
had reached here, and felt not a httle reassured
when I saw indications of the presence of foreigners.
The people were all so absorbed with their fes-
tivities that our approach was not noticed ; hut
when we got close to the shore, I fired off hoth bar-
rels of my gun by way of salute. An instant after,
a number of men came out from among the huts,
and hurried down to the beach. Meantime I had
got out my " King-paper," and leaped ashore.
The crowd that huddled around me would have
put Falstaffs tattecdem^on army to shame. The
most conspicuous character among them wore a
red check shirt, none of the cleanest, and a thread-
bare undress coat of a British general, but had
neither shoes nor breeches. Nor was he ecLually
favored with Captain Drummer in respect of a hat.
Instead of a venerable ehapeau, like that worn by
the captain with so much dignity, he had an
ancient bell-crowned " tUe," which had once been
white, but was now of ecLuivocal color, and which,
apparently from having been repeatedly used as a
seat, was crushed up bellows' fashion, and cocked
forward in a most absurd manner.
The wearer of this Imposing garb had already
HosleflbyGoOgk'
220 THE MOSQUITO SHOEE.
reached "the stage of ""big drunk," and hia Englisli,
none of the best at any time, was now of a very un-
certain character. He staggered up, as if to em-
brace me, slapping his breast with one hand, and
druling out " I General Slam — General Peter
Slam 1" I avoided the intended honor by stepping
on one side, the coneeijuence of which was, that if the
General had not been caught hj Antonio, he cer-
tainly would have plunged into the lagoon.
I made a marked display of my " King-paper,"
and commenced to read it to the General, but he
motioned me to put it up, saying, " AU good ! very
great good ! I Peter Slam, General 1" Meantime
the spectators were reinforced from the village, and
drums were sent for. They were of English make,
and of the biggest. General Slam then insisted on
escorting me up from the beach, "English gentle-
man fashion \" and taking my arm in his unsteady
grasp, he headed the procession, with a desperate
attempt at steadiness, hut nevertheless swaying
from side to side, after the immemorial practice of
drunken men.
Tbe General was clearly the magnate of Sandy
Bay, (called by the Sambos Sanahy^ and when we
reached the centre of the village, where the feast
was going on, we were saluted hy a" hurrah 1"
given " English fashion." Here I noticed a big ca-
noe full of mishla, around which the drinking and
dancing was uninterrupted. General Slam took me
at once to his own house or hnt, where the traders
in whose honor the feast was got up, were quar-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HosleflbyGoOgk'
OBNES AT
tered. I found there the captain and clerk, and
two of the crew of the "London Belle," a trading
vessel which had recently arrived at Cape Gracias,
from Jamaica. There was also an Englishman,
named H- , who lived at the Cape, and who
seemed to hold here a corresponding position with
Mr. Bell in Bluefields. They were aU reclining on
cricheries, or in hammocks, and appeared to be on
terms of easyfamiliaiity with a number of very sleek
young girls, in whose laps they were resting their
heads, and whose principal occupation, in the inter-
vals of not over deHcate dalliance, was that of pass-
ing round glasses of a kind of punch, compounded of
Jamaica rum, the juice of the sugar-cane, and a va-
riety of crashed fruits.
The whole party was what is technically called
" half-seas-over," and welcomed me with that large
Kberality which is inseparable from that condition.
The general was slapped on the back, and told to
" bring in more girls, you bloody rascal, no skuUdng
now I" Whereupon his hat was facetiously crushed
down over his eyes by each one of his guests in
succession, and he was kicked out of the door by
the English captain, a rough brute of a man, who
only meant to be playful.
I had barely time to observe that G-eneral Slam's
house was not entirely without evidences of civiliza-
tion. Upon one side was a folding table, and ship's
sideboard, or locker, both probably from some
wreck. In the latter were a quantity of tumblers,
decanters, plates, and other articles of Christian
HosleflbyGoOgk'
224 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
use ; and on the walls hung a few mde lithographs,
gaudily colored. Among them — strange juxtaposi-
tion ! — ^waa a picture of Wasliington,
My survey was interrupted by a great tumult
near the hut, and a moment after, half a dozen
Sambos, reeking with their filthy miahla, staggered
in at the door, dragging after them a full-blooded
Indian, cLuite naked, and his body bleeding in sev-
eral places, from blows and scratches received at
the hands of his savage assailants. The Sambos
pushed him toward the English captain, ejaculating,
" Him 1 him !" while the Indian himself stood in
perfect silence, his thin lips compressed, and his
eyes fixed on the captain. The conduct of the
latter was in keeping with that of the drunken
wretches who had dragged the Indian to the hut,
and who, vociferating some unintelligible jargon,
were brandishing their clubs over his head, and
occasionally hitting viciously with them at his feet.
" That 's the bloody villain, is it !" said the
captain, leaping from his crickery, and striking the
Indian a terrible blow in the face, which felled him
to the ground. " I '11 team him proper respect for
the King !" This act was followed by stamping
his foot heavily on the fallen and apparently insen-
sible Indian.
The entire proceeding was to me inexpHcable ;
but this last brutality roused my indignation. I
grasped the captain by the collar of his coat, and
hurled him across the hut. " Do you pretend to be
an Englishman," I said, " and yet set such an
HosleflbyGoOgk'
SOENES AT SANDY BAT, 225
example to these savages ? What has this Indian
done ?" " I '11 let you know what he has done,"
he shrieked, rather than spoke, in a wild paroxysm
of rage ; and, grasping a knife from the table, ho
drove at me, with all his force. Maddened and
drunk as he was, I had only to step aside to avoid
the blow. Missing his mark, he stumbled over the
fallen Indian, and fell upon the knife, which pierced
through and through his left arm, just helow the
shoulder. Quick as lightning the Indian leaped
forward, tore the knife from the wound, and in
another instant would have driven it to the cap-
tain's heart, had I not aiTested his arm. He
glanced up in my face, dropped the knife, and
folding his arms, stood erect and silent.
The captain's companions, with the exception of
Mr, H,, were much inclined to be belligerent, but
the revolver in my belt inspired them with a whole-
some discretion.
Meantime, the captain's wound had been bound
up, and the Indian had withdrawn. The Sambos
had retreated the instant I had interposed against
the violence of the trader.
The occasion of this brutal assault was simply
this. The Sambos, living on the coast, effectually
cut off the Indians from the sea, and, availing them-
selves of their position, and the advantage of lire-
arms, make exactions of varioiw kinds from them.
Thus, if the Indians go off to the cays for turtles,
they require from them a certain proportion of the
shells, which is called the " king's portion." But as
10*
HosleflbyGoOgk'
226 THE MOSQUITO SHOEB,
the Jamaica ti-aders always keep the king and
chiefs in deht to them, the shells thus collected go
directly into their" hands. In fact, it is only
through the means which they afford, and often by
their direct interference, that the nominal authority
of the so-called king is kept up. It was alleged
that the Indian whom the captain had abused, and
who was a very expert fisherman, had not made
a fair return ; and his want of " proper respect for
the king," it turned out, consisted in not having a
BufScient c[uantity of shells to satisfy the cupidity
of the trader I
After this occurrence at General Slam's house, I
did not find it agreeable to stay there longer, and,
accordingly, strolled off in the village. The festival
had now become uproarious. Around the mishla
canoe was a motley assemblage of men, women, and
children ; some with red caps and frocks, others
strutting about with half a shirt, and others entirely
naked. A number of men with pipes and drums
kept up an incessant noise, while others, with mus-
kets, which they filled with powder almost to the
muzzle, fired occasional volleys, when all joined in a
general hurrah, "English fashion."
At a little distance was bmlt up a rude fence of
palm-branches and pine-boughs, behind which there
was a crowd of men laughing arid shouting in a
most convulsive manner. I walked forward, and
saw that only males were admitted behind the
screen of boughs. Here,, in the midst of a large
circle of spectators, were two men, dressed in an ex-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
SCENES AT SANDY BAY. 227
traordinary manner, and performing the most absurd
antics. Around their necks each had a sort of
wooden collar, whence depended a, fringe of palm-
leaves, hanging nearly to their feet. Their head-
dresses terminated in a tall, thin strip of wood,
painted in imitation of the beak of a saw-fish, wbile
their faces were daubed with various colors, so as
completely to change the expression of the features.
In each hand they had a gourd containing pebbles,
with which they marked time in their dances.
These were entirely peculiar, and certainly very
comical. First they approached each other, and
bent down their tall head-pieces with the utmost
gravity, by way of salute ; then sidled off like crabs,
singing a couplet which had both rhythm and
rhyme, but, so far as I could discover, no sense. As
interpreted to me, afterward, by Mr. H , it
ran thus ; —
"Shovel-nosed sliark,
Grandmother, grandmotlier I
Shovel-nosed shark,
Grandmother I"
When the performers got tired, their places were
taken by others, who exhausted their ingenuity in
devising grotescLue and ludicrous variations.
When evening came, fires of pine wood were
lighted in all directions, and the drinking and
dancing went on, growing noisier and more outrage-
ous as the night advanced. Many got dead drunk,
and were carried off by the women. Others quar-
reled, but the women, with wise foresight, had ear-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
228 THE MOSQUITO 8H0BE, ,
ried off and hidden all their weapons, and thus obl^ed
them to settle their disputes with their fiste, "En-
glish fashion," To me, these boxing bouts were
exceedingly amusing. Instead of parrying each
others' strokes, they literally exchanged them. First
one would deliver his blow, and then stand stiU and
take that of Lis opponent, blow for blow, until both
became satisfied. Then they would take a drink of
mishla together, "English fashion," and become
friends again.
During the whole of the evening I found myself
closely watched by
a hideous old wo-
man, who moved
around among the
revelers like a
like that of a mummy to her
emaciated to the last degree.
made way for her
when she approach-
ed, and none ven-
tured to speak with
her. There was
something almost
fascinating in her
repulsiveness. Her
hair was long and
matted, and her
shriveled skin ap-
peared to adhere
hones ; for she was
The nails of her
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE SUKIA OF SANDY BAY. 229
fingers were long and black, and caused her hands
to look like the claws of some unclean bird. Her
eyee were bloodshot, but bright and intense, and
were constantly fixed upon me, like those of some
wild beast on its prey. Wherever I moved she fol-
lowed, even behind the screen concealing the
masked dancers, where no other woman was ad-
mitted.
I Hngered among the revelere until their antics
ceased to be amusing, and became simply brutal.
Both sexes finally gave themselyes up to the gross-
est and most shameless debauchery, such as I have
never heard ascribed to the most bestial of savages.
Disgusted and sickened, I turned away, and went
down to the shore, preferring, after what had oc-
curred at Slam's house, to sleep in my boat, to
trusting myself in the power of the wounded trader.
So we pushed off a few hundred feet from the shore,
and anchored for the night. I wrapped myself in
my blanket, and, notwithstanding the noisy revels
in the village, savage laughter and angry shouts,
the beating of drums and firing of guns, I was soon
asleep.
It was past midnight ; the moon had gone down,
the fires of the village were burning low, and the
dancers, stupified and exhausted, only broke out in
occasional spasmodic shrieks, when I was awakened
by Antonio, who placed his finger on my lips in
token of silence. I nevertheless started up in some-
thing of alarm, for the image of the skinny old hag,
who had tracked me with her snaky eyes all the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
2S0 THE MOSQUITO BHORB.
evening, liad disturlDcd my dreams. To my surprise
I found the Indian, whom I had rescued from the
drunken violence of the trader, crouching in the
hottom of the hoat. He had akeady explained to
Antonio, through the Poyer, that we were in great
danger ; that the old woman who had haunted me
was a powerful Svkia, whose commands were always
implicitly oheyed by the superstitious Samhos. In-
stigated by the discomfited trader, she had de-
manded our death, and even now her followers were
planning the means to accomplish it. Our safety,
he ui^d, depended upon our immediate departure,
and then, as if relieved of a burden, he slipped
quietly overboard, and ewam toward the shore,
I was nothing loth to leave Sandy Bay, and we
lost no time in getting up the large stone which
served us for an anchor, and taking our departure.
By morning we were clear of the lagoon, and in the
channel leading from it to Wano Sound, lying
about fifteen miles to the nortward of Sandy Bay,
and half that distance from Cape G-racias. We
reached the sound about ten o'clock in the morning,
and stopped for breakfast on a narrow sand-spit,
where a few trees on the ^shore gave shade and fuel.
The day was excessively hot, and we waited for the
evening before pursuing our voyage. During the
afternoon, however, we were joined by Mr. H., who
had got wind of the designs of the trader, and at-
tempted to warn us, but found that we had gone.
Indignant at his treachery, he had abandoned the
brutal captain, and determined to return to the Cape.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
POWER OF THE 8UKIA8. 231
He explained to me that our danger had been
greater than we had supposed. The old Sulcia wo-
man possessed more power over the Sambos than
king or chief, and her commands were never disput-
ed or neglected. The gi-andfather of the present
king, he said, had been killed hy her order, as had
also his great aunt ; and although the immediate
perpetrators of the deed had been executed, yet the
king had not dared to bring the dreaded Sukia to
jxistice. She had, however, been obliged to leave
Cape Gracias, lest, during the visit of some English
vessel of wai', she should be punished for complicity
in the murder of a couple of Englishmen, named
Collins and Pollard, who had been slaughtered
some years before, while turtling on the cays off the
coast. Another reason for her departure had been
the advent of a more powerful and leas malignant
Suhia woman, who, he assured me, was gifted with
prophecy, and a knowledge of things past and to
come. He represented her as young, living in a
very mysterious manner, far up the Cape Eiver,
among the mountains. None knew who she was,
nor whence she came, nor had he seen her more
than once, although he had consulted her by proxy
on several occasions. I was amused at the gravity
with which he recounted instances of her power
over disease and her knowledge of events, and
could not help thinking, that he had resided so
long on the coast as to get infected with the super-
stitions of the people, There was, however, no
mistaking his earnestness, and I consequently ab-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
232 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
stained from ridiculing his stories, "You shall see
and hear for yourself," he added, "and then you
will he better able to judge if I am a child to he
deceived by the silly juggles of an Indian woman.
These people have inherited from their ancestors
many mysterious and wondeiful powers ; and even
the inferior order of Sukias ean defy the poison of
snakes, and the effects of fire. Flames and the
bullets of guns are impotent against them."
I -found H. a man of no inconsiderable intelli-
gence, and ho gave me much information about the
coast and its inhabitants, and, altogether, before
embarking we had become fast friends, and I had
accepted an invitation to make his house my home
during my stay at the Cape.
I have several times alluded to the filthy mishla
drink, which is the universal appliance of the Sam-
bos for getting up the " big drunk." I never
witnessed the disgusting process of its preparation,
but it has been graphically described by Roberts,
who was a trader on the coast, and who, twenty
years before, had been a witness of the "rise and
progress" of a grand debauch at Sandy Bay.
" Preparations were going on for a grand feast
and mishla drink. For this purpose the whole
population was employed- — most of them being en-
gaged in collecting pine-apples, plantains, and cas-
sava for their favorite liquor. The expressed juice
of the pine-apple alone is a pleasant and agreeable
beverage. The misMa from the plantain and ba^
nana is also both pleasant and nutritive ; that
HosleflbyGoOgk'
UISHLA DRINK. iiSS
from the cassava and maize is more intoxicating,
but its preparation is a process exceedingly disgust-
ing. The root of the cassava, after heing peeled
and mashed, is boiled to the same consistence as
when it is used for food. It is then taken from the
flre, and allowed to coo!. The pota are now sur-
rounded by all the women, old and young, who,
heing provided with large calabashes, commence an
attack upon the cassava, which they chew to the
consistence of a thick paste, and then put their
mouthsful into the bowls, until the latter are
filled. These are then emptied into a canoe which
is drawn up for the purpose, until it is about one
third filled. Other cassava is then taken, bruised
in a land of wooden mortar, until it is reduced to
the consistence of dough, when it ie diluted with
cold water, to which is added a CLuantity of Indian
corn, partly boiled and masticated, and then all ia
poured into the canoe, which is filled with water,
and the mixture aftei-ward frecLuently stirred with
a paddlo. In the course of a few hours it reaches a
h^h and abominable state of fermentation. The
liquor, it may be observed, ia more or lesa esteemed,
according to the health, age, and constitution of
the masticators. And when the chiefs give a pri-
vate misMa drink, they confine the mastication to
their own wives and young girls."
After fermentation, the miskla has a cream-like
appearance, and is to the highest degree intoxicat-
ing. The drinking never ceases, so long as a drop
can be squeezed from the festering dregs that re-
main, after the liquid is exhausted.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
.'APE ORAL IAS A DIO-^ was so
called lay Columbus, when, after a
Y voyage, he gave " Thanks to
God" for the happy discovery of
this, the extreme north-eastern angle of Central
America, Here the great Cape, or Wants Eiver,
fiads its way into the sea, forming a large, but
shallow harbor. It was a favorite resort of the buc-
caneers, in the olden time, when the Spanish Main
was associated with vague notions of exhaustle^
wealth, tales of heavy galloons, laden with gold,
and the wild adventures of Drake, and Morgan, and
Llonois. Here, too, long ago, was wrecked a large
slaver, destined for Cuba, and crowded with ne-
groes. They escaped to the shore, mixed with the
natives, and, with subsequent additions to their
numbers from Jamaica, and from the interior, orig-
inated the people known as the "Mosquito In-
dians." Supported by the pirates, and by the
governors of Jamaica, as a means of annoyance to
HosleflbyGoOgk'
DAPE GBAOIAS. 235
the Spaniards, they gradually extended southward
as far ae Bluefields, and at one time carried on a
war against the Jndians, whom they had displaced,
for the purpose of obtaining prisoners, to he sold in
the islands ae slaves.
But with the suppression of this traffic, and in
consequence of the encroachments of the semi-
ciyilized Carihs on the north, their settlement at
the Cape has gradually declined, until now it does
not contain more than two hundred inhahitants.
The village is situated on the south-western side of
the bay or harbor, not far from its entrance, on the
edge of an extensive, sandy savannah.
Between the shore and the village is a belt of
thick bush, three or four hundred yards broad,
through which are numerous narrow paths, difficult
to pass, since the natives are too lazy to cut away
the undergrowth and branches which obetruct them.
The village itself is mean, dirty, and infested with
hungry pigs, and snarling, m.angy dogs. The huts
are of the rudest description, and most of them un-
fitted for shelter against the rain. The only houses
which had any pretensions to comfort, at the time of
my visit, were the " King's house," another belonging
to a German named Boucher, and that of my new
friend H. The latter was boarded and sbingled, and
looked c^uite a palace after my experience of the pre-
ceding-two months, in MoscLuito architecture. Mr.
H. made us very comfortable indeed. In addition
to the numerous native products of tbe country, he
had a liberal supply of foreign luxuries. As a
HosleflbyGoOgk'
236 THE. MOSQUITO 9H0Rlil.
trader he had, for many years, carried on quite a
traffic with the Wanka Eiver Indians, in deer sMns,
sarsaparilla, and mahogany, and viith the Sambos
themselves in turtle-she lis. And whatever nominal
authority may have existed previously at the Cape,
it was obvious enough that he was now the de facto
governor.
Thoroughly domesticated in the country, he had
no ambitions beyond it, and had made several,
although not very successfni, attempts to introduce
industry, and improve the condition of the natives.
At one time he had had a number of cattle on the
savannah— ■which, although its soil is too poor for
cultivation, nevertheless affords abundance of good
grass — hut the Sambos tilled so many for their
own use, that he sold the remainder to the trading
vessels. He had now undertaken their introduction
again, with better success, and had, moreover, some
mules and horses. The latter were sorry-looMng
beasts ; since, for want of proper care, the wood-
ticks had got in their ears, and caused them not
only to lop down, but also, in some instances, en-
tirely to drop off.
The Sambos have a singular custom, unfavorable,
certainly, to the raising of cattle, which Mr. H. had
not yet entirely succeeded in suppressing. When-
ever a native is proved guilty of adultery, the in-
jured party immediately goes out in the savannah
and shoots a beeve, without regard to its ownership.
The duty of paying for it then devolves upon the
adulterer, and constitutes the penalty for his offence 1
HosleflbyGoOgk'
NEW WAT OF HUNTING. 237
Nearly all the Sambos at the Cape speak a little
English, and I never passed their huts without
feeing saluted " Mornin', sir ; give me grog !" In
fact their devotion to grog, and general improvi-
dent habits, are fast thinning their numbers, and
will soon wort their utter extermination. Although
there ire stieiil pliceb neai the settlement where
ail needful suppbts might be raised ■yet they are
chiefly dependent on the Indi mi jt the liver for
their vegetables
Theie is httlc gimc on the avannah but on the
strip ot land which separates the harbtr trom the
sei and which is called the I'sland ut San Pio, deer
are found m abundance This i&land is curiously
_-^^*=^^^^
diversified with alternate patches of savannah, bush,
and marsh, and offers numerous coverts for wild
animals. The deer, however, are only hunted by
the few whites who live at the Cape, and they have
hit upon an easy and novel mode of procuring
their supply. The deer are not shy of cattle, and
wUl feed side by side with them in the savannahs.
So Mr. H. had trained a favorite cow to obey reins
HosleflbyGoOgk'
iiiSa THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
of cord attached to her horns, as a horse does his
hit. Starting out, and keeping the cow constantly
between himself and the deer, he never has
the slightest difBculty in approaching so close
to them as to shoot them with a pistol. If there
are more than one, the rest do not start off at the
discharge, but only prick up their ears in amaze-
ment, and thus afford an opportunity for another
shot, if desired. I witnessed this labor-saving mode
of hunting several times, and found that H. and his
cow never failed of their object,
While upon the subject of game, I may mention
that San Pio abounds with birds and water-fowl.
Among them are two varieties of snipe, beside
innumerable curlews, ducks, and teal. The blue
and green-winged teal were great favorites of mine,
being always in good condition. They were not
obtained, however, without the drawback of expo-
sure to the sandflies, which infest the island in
uncountable millions. The European residents
always have a supply of turtles, which are pur-
chased at prices of from four to eight yards of
Osnaberg, equal to from one to two dollars, accord-
ing to their size. Two kinds of oysters are also
obtained here, one called the " bank oyster," corres-
ponding with those which I obtained in Pearl Oay
Lagoon, and the little mangrove oysters. The
latter are about the size of half a dollar, and attach
themselves to the roots of the mangrove-trees. It
is a question whether a hungry man, having to
open them for iiimself, might not starve before
HosleflbyGoOgk'
getting satisfied. A few hundreds, with a couple
of Indians to open them, make a good, but mode-
rate, lunch !
The bay and river swarm with fish, of the varie-
ties which I have enumerated as common on the
coast. During still weather they are caught with
seines, in large quantities. These seines helong to
the foreigners, but are drawn by the natives (when
they happen to be hungry !), who receive half of
the spoil.
Mr. H. was not a little piqued at my incredulity
in the Suhias, and, faithful to liis promise, per-
suaded one of them to give us an example of her
powers. The place was the enclosure in the rear
of his own house, and the time evening. The
Sukia made her appearance alone, carrying a long
thick wand of bamboo, and with no dress except
the ule tournou. She was only inferior to her sister
at Sandy Bay, in ugliness, and stalked into the
house like a spectre, without uttering a word. H,
cut off a piece of calico, and handed it to her as her
recompense. She received it in perfect silence,
walked into the yard, and folded it carefully on tho
ground. Meanwhile a iire Had been kindled of pine
splints and branches, which was now blazing high.
"Without any hesitation the Sukia walked up to It,
and stepped in its very centre. The flames darted
their forked tongues as high as her waist ; the coals
beneath and around her naked feet blackened, and
to expire ; while the tournou which she
t about her loins, cracked and shriveled with
HosleflbyGoOgk'
240 THB MOSQUITO SHOKB.
the heat. There she stood, immovable, and appa-
reutly as insensible as a statue of iron, until the
blaze subsided, when she commenced to walk
around the smouldering embers, muttering rapidly
to herself, in an unintelligible manner. Suddenly
she stopped, and placing her foot on the bamboo
staff, broke it in the middle, shaking out, from the
section in her hand, a full-grown tamagasa snake,
which, on the instant coiled itself up, flattened its
head, and darted out its tongue, in an attitude of
defiance and attack. The Suhia extended her
hand, and it fastened on her wrist with the quick-
ness of Hght, where it hung, dangling and writhing its
body in knots and coils, while she resumed her mum-
bling march around the embers. After awhile, and
with the same abruptness which had marked all of
her previous movements, she shook off the serpent,
crushed its head in the ground with her heel, and
taking up the cloth which had been given to her,
stalked away, without having exchanged a word
with any one present.
Mr. H. gave me a triumphant look, and asked
what now I had to say. " Was there any deception
in what I had seen ?" I only succeeded in con-
vincing him that I was a perversely obstinate man,
by suggesting that the SuMa was probably ac-
quainted with some antidote for the venom of the
serpent, and that her endurance of the fire was
nothing more remarkable than that of the jugglers,
"fire kings," and other vagrants at home, who
make no pretence of supernatural powers.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
MYSTERIES, 241
" Well," he continued, in a tone of irritated dis-
appointment, " can your jugglers and ' fire kings'
tell the past, and predict the future ? When you
have your inmost thoughts revealed to you, and
when the spirits of your dead friends recall to your
memory scenea and incidents known only to them,
yourself, and God — tell me," and his voice grew
deep and earnest, " on what hypothesis do you ac-
count for things like these ? Yet I can testify to
their truth. You may laugh at what you call the
vulgar trickery of the old hag who has just left ua,
but I can take you where even your scoffing tongue
will cleave to its roof with awe ; where the irunost
secrets of your heart shall he unvailed, and where
you shall feel that you stand face to face with the
invisible dead I"
I have never felt it in my heart to ridicule opin-
ions, however absurd, if sincerely entertained ; and
there was that in the awed manner of my host
which convinced mc that he was in earnest in what
he said So I dropped the conversation, on his as-
suianco that he wiuld accompany me to visit the
strange womin to whom he assigned such mysteri-
ous powei
Antonij had httn an attentive witness of the
tricks Lt the Sulta, and expressed to me the great-
est contempt fji hei pretensions. Such exhibitions,
he said, were only ht for idle children, and were not
to be confounded with the awful powers of the
oiacles through whom the " Lord of Teaching and
the spirit's of the Holy Men" held communion
HosleflbyGoOgk'
242 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
with mortals. I spoke to him of the mysterioua
woman, who was greater than all the Snkias, and
Uved among the mountains. " She is of our peo-
ple," he exclaimed, warmly, " and her name is
Hoxom-Bal, which means the Mother of the Tigers,
It was to seek her that I left the Holy City of the
Itzaes, with no guide but my Lord who never lies.
And now her soul shall enter into our brothers of
the mountains, and they ahall he tigers on the
tracks of our oppressors !"
The form of the Indian boy had dilated as he
spoke ; his smooth limbs were knotted by the swell-
ing muscles ; his eyes burned, and hie low voice be-
came firm, distinct, and ominous. But it was only
for an instant ; and while I listened to hear the
great secret which swelled in his bosom, he stopped
short, and, turning suddenly, walked away. But I
could see that he pressed hie tahsman closer to his
breast.
The Sukias of the coast are usually women, al-
though their powers and authority are sometimes
assumed by men. Their preparation for the office
involves mortifications as rigorous as the Church
ever required of her most abject devotees. For
months do the candidates seclude themselves in the
forests, avoiding the face of their fellows, and there,
without arms or means of defense, contend with
hunger, the elements, and wild beasts. It is thus
that they seal their compact with the mysterious
powers which rule over earth and water, air and
fire ; and they return to the villages of their peo-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
pie, invested with all the terrora wMch superstition
has ever attached to those who seem to be exempt
from the operations of natural laws.
These Sukias are the " medicine-mpn of the
coast, and affect to cure disease , hut then direc-
tions are usually more extravagant than heneficial.
They sometimes order the victim of lever to go to
an open sand-beach by the sea, and there, exposed
to the burning heat of the vertical sun, await his
cure. They have also a savage taste for blood, and
the cutting and scarification of the body are
among their favorite remedies.
The Mosquitos, I may observe here, have no idea
of a supreme beneficent Being ; but stand in great
awe of an evil spirit which they call Wulasha, and
of a water-ghost, called Lewire. Wulasha is sup-
posed to share in all the rewards which the Sukias
obtain for their services. His half of the stipulated
price, however, ia shrewdly exacted beforehand,
while the payment of the remainder depends very
much upon the Sukia's euccess.
Among the customs universal on the coast, is in-
fanticide, in all cases where the child is bom with
any physical defect. As a consequence, natural de-
formity of person is unknown. Chastity, as I have
several times had occasion to intimate, is not con-
sidered a virtue ; and the number of a man's wives is
only determined by circumstances, polygamy being
universal. Physically, the Mosquitos have a large
predominance of negro blood ; and their habits and
superstitions are African rather than American.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
244 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
They are largely affected with syphilitic affections,
resulting frora their uni'estrained licentious inter-
course with the pirates in remote, and with tradei^
(in character but one degree removed from the pi-
rates) in later times. These affectionSj under the
form of the hulpis, red, white, and scabbed, have
come to be a radical taint, running through the
entire population, and so impairing the general
constitution as to render it fatally susceptible to all
epidemic diseases. This is one of the powerful
causes which is contributing to the rapid decrease,
and which will soon result in the total extinction of
the Sambos.
Their arts are limited to the very narrow range
of their wants, and are exceedingly rude. The
greatest sHU is displayed in their dories, canoes,
and pitpans, which are brought down by the In-
dians of the interior,- rudely blocked out, so as to
give the purchaser an opportunity of exercising his
taste in the finish. ' Essentially fishers, they are at
home in the water, and manage their boats with
great dexterity. Their language has some slight
afSnity with the Carib, but has degenerated into a
sort of jargon, in which Indian, English, Spanish,
and Jamaica-African are strangely jumbled. They
count by twenties, i. e., collective fingers and toes,
and make fearful work of it when they " get up in
the figures." Thus, to express thirty-seven, they say,
" Iwanaiska - kumi-pura - matawalsip -jpura-matlal-
hahe-pwa-hwmi" which literally means, one-twenty-
and-ten-and-eix-and-one, i. e., 20+1-1-10+6-1-1.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
MOSQUITO CHAEACTBB. 245
They reckon their days by sleeps, their months by
moons, and their years by the complement of thir-
teen moons.
Altogether, the Mosciuitos have little in their
character to commend. Their besetting vice is
drunkenness, which has obUterated all of their bet-
ter traits. "Without rehgion, with no idea of gov-
ernment, they are capricious, indolent, improvident,
treacherous, and given to thieving. All attempts
to advance their condition have been melancholy
failures, and it is probable they would have disap-
peared from the earth without remark, had it not
suited the purposes of the English government to
put them forward as a mask to that encroaching
policy which is its always disclaimed, but insepar-
able and notorious characteristic.
There is a suburb of the village at the Cape,
near the river, which is called Pidlen-town. Here
I was witness of a curious ceremony, a Seekroe or
Festival of the Dead. This festival occurs on the
0rat anniveraary of the death of any important
member of a family, and is only participated in by
the relatives and friends of the deceased. The
prime element, as in every feast, is the cliicha, of
which all hands drink profusely. Both males and
females were dressed in a species of cloak, of ule
bark, fantastically painted, with hlack and white,
Tvhile their faces were"" correspondingly streaked
with red and yellow {anotto). The music was made
by two big droning pipes, played to a low, monoton-
ous vocal accompaniment. The dance consisted in
HosleflbyGoOgk'
246 THE MOSQUITO HHORIi.
slowly stalking in a circle, for a certain length of
time, -when the immediate relatives of the dead
threw themselves flat on their faces on the ground,
calling londly on the departed, and tearing up the
earth with their hands. ,' Then, rising, they re-
sumed their march, only to, repeat their prostrations
and cries. I could obtain no eatiefactory explana-
tion of the practice. " So did our ancestors," was
the only reason assigned for its continuance.
We had been at the Capo about a week, when
Mr. H. received information that the news of our
affair at Quamwatla had reached Sandy Bay, and
that the vindictive trader had dispatched a fast-
sailing dory by sea to Bluefields, to obtain orders
for our " arrest and punishment." This news was
brought in tho night, by the same Indian whom I
had protected from the trader's brutality, and who
took this means of evincing his gratitude. I had
'already frankly explained to Mr. H. the circum-
stances of our fight, which, he conceded, fully justi-
fied all we had done. StiU, as the trader might
make it a pretext for much annoyance, he approved
the plan which I had already formed, for other rea-
sons, to explore the Wanks Eiver, and accompany
my Poyer boy to the fastnesses of his tribe, in the
untracked wilderness lying between that river and
the Bay of Honduras. By taking this course, I
would be able again to reach the sea beyond the
Sambo jurisdiction, in the district occupied by the
Caribs, not far from the old Spanish port of Trux-
illo. Furthermore, the tame scenery of the lagoons
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HE RIVBE WANKS. 24T
J unattractivCj and I longed for moun-
tains and the noise of rushing waters. The famous
Sukia woman also lived on one of the lower
branches of the river, and in accordance with this
plan we could visit her without going greatly out
of our wa;'.
In fulfillment of hia promise, Mr. H. prepared to
accompany ue as far as the retreat of the mysterious
seereas, and two days afterward, following the lead
of his pitpan, we embarked. The harbor connects
with the river by a creek at its northern extremity,
which, is deep enough to admit the passage of
canoes. Emerging from this, we came into the
great Wanks River, a broad and noble stream, with
a very slight current at its low stages, hut pouring
forth a heavy flood of waters during the rainy sea-
son. It has ample capacity for navigation for
nearly a hundred miles of its length, but a bad aud
variable bar at its mouth presents an insurmount-
ablo barrier to the entrance of vessels. Yerj little
is known of this river, except that it rises within
thirty or forty miles of the Pacific, and that, for
the upper half of its course, it flows among high
mountains, and is obstructed by falls and shallows.
We made rapid progress during the day, the
river more resembling an estuary than a running
stream. The banks, for a hundred yards or more
back from the water, were thickly lined with bush ;
but beyond this belt of jungle there was an unm-
terrupted succession of sandy savannahs. There
were no signs of inhabitants, except a few huts, at
HosleflbyGoOgk'
248 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
long intervalSj at places where the soil happened to
he rich enough to admit of cultivation. We never-
theless met a few Indians coming down with canoes,
to be sold at the Cape, who regarded us curiously,
and in silence.
Near evening, we encamped at a point where a
ridge of the savannah, penetrating the bush, came
down boldly to the river, foiming an eddy, or cove,
which seemed specially intended for a halting-place^
Mr. H. had named the bluff " Iguana Point," from
the great number of iguanas found there. They
abound on the higher parts of the entire coast, but
I had seen none so large as those found at this
place. It is difficult to imagine ugHer reptiles —
great, overgtown, corrugated lizards as they are,
■with their bloated throats, and snaky eyes ! They
seemed to think us insolent intruders, and waddled
off with apparent sullen reluctance, when we
approached. But the law of compensations holds
good in respect to the iguanas, as in regard to
every thing else. If they are the ugliest reptiles in
the world, they are, at the same time, among the
best to eat. So our men slaughtered three or four
of the largest, selecting those which appeared to be
fullest of eggs. Up to this time I had not been
able to overcome my repugnance sufficiently to
taste them ; but now, encouraged by H,, I made
the attempt. The first few mouthfuls went much
against the grain ; but I found the flesh really so
delicate, that before the meal was finished, I suc-
ceeded in forgetting ray prejudices. The eggs are
HosleflbyGoOgk'
especially delicious, eurpaBaing even those of tlie
turtle. It may be said, to tlie credit of the ugly"
iguana, that in respect of his own food, he is aa
delicate as the hnmming-hird, or the sq^nirrel, living
chiefly npon flowers and hlossoms of trees. He is
frequently to he seen on the branches of large
trees, overhanging tho water, whence he loots down
with curiouB gravity upon the passing voyager.
His principal enemies are serpents, who, however,
frequently get worsted in their attacks, for the
iguana has sharp teeth, and powerful jaws. Of the
smaller varieties, there are some of the liveUest
green. Hundreds of these may be seen on the
snags and fallen trunks that line the shores of the
rivers. They will watch the canoe as it approaches,
then suddenly dart off to the shore, literally walking
the water, so rapidly that they almost appear like a
green arrow skipping past. They are called, in the
language of the natives, by the generic name, kaka-
In strolling a little distance from our camp,
before supper, I saw a waddling animal,- -which I
at first took for an iguana. A moment after, I per-
ceived my mistake. It appeared to be doing ita
best to run away, but so clumsily that, instead of
shooting it, I hurried forward, and headed off its
course. In attempting to pass me, it came so near
that I stopped it with my foot. In an instant it
hterally rolled itself up in a ball, looking for all the
world like a large sea-shell, or rather like one of
those curious, cheese-like, coralHue productions,
11*
HosleflbyGoOgk'
250 THK MOSQUITO SHOitE.
known among sailors as sea-eggs. I then saw it
was an armadillo, that little mailed adventurer of
the forest, who, like the opossum, shams death
when " cornered," or driven in " a tight place." I
rolled him over, and grasping him hy his stumpy
tail, carried him into camp. He proved to be of
the variety known as the " three-banded aimadiUo,"
cream-colored, and covered with hexagonal scales.
I afterward saw several other larger varieties, with
eight and nine hands. The flesh of the armadillo
is white, juicy, and tender, and is esteemed one of
the greatest of luxfxies.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
nnvniwv
'"It nooHj on the second day of our de-
I parture from Cape G-racias, we came
; to a considerable
I Bocay, which enters the river "Wanks
from the south-west. It was on the banks of this
river, some ten or fifteen miles above its mouth,
that the famed Sukia woman resided. We direct-
ed our boats up the stream, the water of which was
clear, and flowed with a rapid current. We were
not long in passing through the belt of savannah
which flanks the Cape River, on both sides, for fifty
miles above its mouth. Beyond this came dense
primitive forests of gigantic trees, among which the
mahogany was conspicuous. The banks, too, bo-
came high and firm, occasionally presenting rocky
promontories, around which the water swept in dark
eddies. Altogether, it was evident that we had en-
tered the mountain region of the continent, and
HosleflbyGoOgk'
252 THE MOSQUITO SBOBB.
were at the foot of one of the great
ranges of the prunitive chain of the Cordilleras.
In places, the river was compressed among
high hillSj with scarped, rocky faces, where the
current was rapid and powerful, and only over-
come hy vigorous efforts at the paddles. These
were succeeded by heautiful intervals of level
ground, inviting localities for the establishments of
man. We passed two or three sweet and sheltered
nooks, in which were small clearings, and the pic-
turescLue huts of the Indians. Excepting an occa-
sional palm-tree, or isolated cluster of plantains,
clinging to the shore where their germs had been
lodged by the water, there was nothing tropical
in the aspect of nature, unless, perhaps, the great-
er size of the forest-trees, and the variety of para^
sitic plants which they supported.
Our progress against the current was compara-
tively slow and laborious, and it was late in the
evening when the gUttering of fires on the bank,
and the harMng of dogs, announced to ns the prox-
imity of the Indian village of Bocay, to which we
were bound. We reached it in due time, and were
received quite ceremoniously by the old men of the
place, who seemed to be perfectly aware of our com-
ing. This struck me at the time as due to the fore-
sight of Mr, H,, but I afterward learned that he
had given the Indians no intimation of our pro-
posed visit.
A vacant hut was assigned to us, and we com-
menced to arrange our hammocks and prepare our
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE MESSENGER. 253
supper. Our meal was scarcely finished, when there
was a sudden movement among the Indiana, who
clustered like bees around our door, and a passage
for some one approaching was rapidly opened. A
moment afterward, an old woman came forward,
and, stopping in the low doorway, regarded us in
silence. In hearing and dress she differed much
from the rest of the people. Around her forehead
she wore a hroad band of cotton, in which were
braided the most brilhant feathers of birds. This
band confined her hair, which hung down her back,
like a vail, nearly to the ground. From her waist
depended a kilt of tiger-skins, and she wore sandals
of the same on her feet. Around each wrist and
ankle she had hroad feather bands, like that which
encircled her forehead.
Her eyes soon rested upon Antonio, who, on the
ir^tant of her approach, had discontinued his work,
and advanced to the door. They exchanged a
glance as if of recognition, and spoko a few hurried
and, to us, unintelligible words, when the old wo-
man turned suddenly, and walked away. I looked
inquiringly at the youthful Indian, whose eyes
glowed again with that mysterious intelligence
which I had so often remarked.
He came hastily to my side, and whispered in
Spanish, " The Mother of the Tigers is waiting I"
Then, with nervous steps, he moved toward the
door, I beckoned to H,, and followed. The In-
dians opened to the right and left, and we passed
out, scarcely able to keep pace with the rapid
HosleflbyGoOgk'
254 THE MOSQUITO 8B0RE,
steps of the Indian boy. On he went, as if familiar
with the place, past the open huts, and into the
dart forest. I now saw that he followed a light,
not like that of a flame, but of a burning coal,
which looked close at one moment, and distant
the next. The path, though narrow, was smooth,
and ascended rapidly. For half an hour we kept
on at the same quick pace, when the trees began to
separate, and I could see that we were emerging
from the dark forest into a comparatively open
space, in which the graceful plumes of the palm-
trees appeared, traced lightly against the starry sky.
Here the guiding fire seemed to halt, and, coming
up, we found the same old woman who had visited
us in the village, and who now carried a burning
brand as a direction to our steps. She made a sign
of silence, and moved on slowly, and with apparent
caution. A few minutes' walk brought us to what,
in the dim light, appeared to be a building of stone,
and soon after to another and larger one. I saw
that they wero partly ruined, for the stars in the hori-
zon were visible through the open doorways. Our
guide passed these without stopping, and led us to
the threshold of a small cane-huUt hut, which stood
beyond the ruin. The door was open, and the Hght
from within shone out on the smoothly beaten
ground in front, in a broad unwavering column.
We entered ; hut for the moment I was almost
hhnded by a blaze of hght proceeding from torches
of pine- wood, planted in each corner. I was
startled also by an angry growl, and the sudden
HosleflbyGoOgk'
SANOTCJAEY OF THE SUKIA. 265
apparition of some wild animal at our feet, I
shrank back witli a feeling of alarm, which was not
diminished when, upon recovering my powers of
vision, I saw directly in front of us, aa if guardian
of the dwelling, a large tiger, its fierce eyes fixed
upon us, and slowly sweeping the ground with its
long tail, as if preparing to spring at our throats.
It, however, stopped the way only for a moment,
A single word and gesture from the old woman
drove it into a corner of the hut, where it crouched
down in quiet. I glanced around, but excepting a
single rude Indian drum, placed in the centre of
the smooth, earthen floor, and a few blocks of stone
planted along the walls for seats, there were no
other articles, either of use or ornament, in the hut.
But at one extremity of the low apartment, seated
upon an outspread tiger-skin, was a woman, whose
figure and manner at once marked her out as the
extraordinary Svkia whom we had come so far to
visit. She was young, certainly not ever twenty,
tall, and perfectly formed, and wore a tiger-sldn in
the same manner as the old woman who had acted
as her messenger, but the band around her fore-
head, and her armlets and auklets, were of gold.
She rose when we entered, and, with a faint smile
of recognition to H., spoke a few words of welcome,
I had expected to see a bold pretender to supemat-
ura,l powers, whose first efforts would be directed to
work upon the imaginations of her visitors, and was
surprised to find that the "Mother of the Tigers"
was after all only a shy and timid Indian girl Her
HosleflbyGoOgk'
256
HE MOSQUITO SHORE,
looks, at first, were troulaledj and she glanced into
our eyes inquiringly ; tut suddenly turning lier gaze
toward the open door,
slio uttered an excla-
mation of mingled
surprise and joy, and
in an instant after
she stood by the aide
of Antonio. They
gazed at each other
in silence, then ex-
changed a rapid sig-
nal, and a single
word, when she turn-
ed away, and Anto-
nio retired into a
corner, where he re-
mained fixed as a
statue, regarding ev-
"THE MOTHKa OP THE Ti&ERs." ^^J Hiovement with
the closest attention.
No sooner had the SuTcta resumed her seat, than
she clasped her forehead in her open palms, and
gazed intently upon the ground before her. Never
have I seen the face of a human being which wore a
more earnest expression. For five minutes, per-
haps, the silence was mibroken, when a sudden
sound, as of the snapping of the string of a violin,
directed our attention to the rude drum that stood
in the centre of the hut. This sound was followed
by a series of craelding noises, like the discharges of
HosleflbyGoOgk'
SANOTUABY OF THE SDKIA. 257
electric sparka. They seemed to occur irregularly
at first, but aa I listened, I discovered that they
had a harmonious relationship, aa if in accompani-
ment to some simple melody. The vibrations of the
drum were distinctly visible, and they seemed to
give it a circular motion over the ground, from left
to right. The sounds stopped as suddenly as they
had commenced, and the Sukia, lifting her head,
said solemnly, " The spirits of your fathers liave
come to the mountain ! I Icnow them not ; you
must speat to them."
I hesitate to recount what I that night witnessed
in the rude hut of the Sukia, lest my testimony
should expose both my narrative and myself to ridi-
cule, and unjust imputations. Were it my purpose
to elaborate an impressive story, it would be easy
to call in the aid of an imposing machinery, and
invest the communications which were that night
made to us with a portentous significance. But
this wouM be as foreign to truth as repugnant to
my own feelings ; for whatever tone of lightness
may run through this account of my adventures in
the wilderness, those who know me will bear witness
to my respect for those things which are in their
nature sacred, or connected with the more mysteri-
ous elements of our existence, I can only say, that
except the somewhat melo-dramatic manner in
which we had been conducted up the mountain by
the messenger of the Sukia, and the incident of the
tamed tiger, nothing occurred during our visit
HosleflbyGoOgk'
258 THE MOSQUITO SHOEE.
which appeared to have been designed for effect, or
which was vieibly out of the ordinary course of
things. It is true, I was somewhat puzzled, I will
not say impressed, with the perfect understanding,
or relationship, which seemed to exist between the
Sukia and Antonio. This relationship, however,
was fully explained in the secLuel. Among the
ruling and the priestly classes of the semi-civilized
nations of America, there has always existed a mys-
terious foond, or secret organization, which all the
disasters to which they have been subjected, have
not destroyed. It is to its present existence that
we may attribute those simultaneous movements of
the aborigines of Mexico, Central America, and
Peru, which havo, more than once, threatened the
complete subversion of the Spanish power.
It was past midnight when, with a new and
deeper insight into the mysteries of our present and
future existence, and a fuller and loftier apprecia-
tion of the great realities which are to follow upon
the advent of every soul into the universe, and of
which earth is scarcely the initiation, that H, and
myself left the sanctuary of the Sukia. The moon
had risen, and now silvered eveiy object with its
steady light, reveahng to us that we stood upon a
narrow terrace of the mountain, facing the east, and
commanding a vast panorama of forest and savan-
nah, bounded only by the distant sea. Immediately
in front of the hut from which we had emerged,
stood one of the ruined strueturea to which I have
HosleflbyGoOgk'
BANCTLfAaY OF THE SUKIA. 259
already alluded By the clear light of the moon I
cuuld jeiceive that it wig bmlt of laige stones laid
with the gieitest legulanty and sculptured all over
with Btian^e figures, having a close resemblance if
not an ilsoluii. identity, with those which hive be-
come fimdiinzed to us by the pencil of (. atl eiwcA 1.
It appeared originally to have been of two stories,
but the upper walls had fallen, and the ground was
encumbered with the rubbish, over which vines were
trailing, as if to vail the crumbling ruins from the
gaze of men. As we moved away, and at a con-
siderable distance from the ruins, we observed a
large erect stone, rudely sculptured in the outline
HosleflbyGoOgk'
ilbt) THE MOSQUITO SHOBE.
of a human %uie. Its face was turned to the
East, Eis if to catch the first raya of the morning,
and the Bght of the moon fell full upon it. To my
surprise, its features were the exact counterparts of
those which appeared on Antonio's tahsman. There
was no mistaking the rigid yet not ungentle ex-
pression of the " Lord who never lies."
Silently we followed the guide, who had con-
ducted us up the mountain, into the narrow path
which led to the village. She indicated to us the
direction we wore to pursue with her hand, and left
us without a word. I was so ahaorhed in my own
reflections that it was not until we had reached our
temporary c[U3rters that I missed Antonio, He had
remained behind. But when I awoke next morn-
ing he had returned, and was busily preparing for
our departure. " It is well with our brothers of the
mountains !" was his prompt response to my look
of inquiry. I'rom that day forward his absorbing
idea seemed to he to return as speedily as posible to
his people. It was long afterward that I discovered
the deep significance of the visit of the youthful
chieftain of tho Itzaes to the Indian seeress of the
Biver Bocay. Since then the Spaniard, though
fenced round with bayonets, has often shuddered
when he has heard the cry of the tiger in the still-
ness of the night, betraying the approach of those
injured men, whose relentless arms, nerved by the
recollections of three centuries of oppression, now
threaten the utter extermination of the race of the
conquerors I
HosleflbyGoOgk'
NOBVA SEGOVIA. 261
Our passage down the Bocay was rapid compared
with the ascent, and at noon we had reached the
great river. My course now lay in one direction,
and that of Mr. H. in another, hut we were loth to
separate, and he finally agi'eed to accompany us to
our first stopping-place, and, passing the night with
us there, return next day to the Cape. It was
scarcely four o'clock when "we reached the desig-
nated point, chiefly remarkable as marldng the
termination of the savannahs. Beyond here the
banks of the river became elevated, rising in hilla
and high mountains, denaely covered with a gigan-
tic primeval forest. Our Indian companions speed-
ily supplied ua with an abundance of fish, with
which the river seemed to swarm. And as for vege-
tables — wherever the banks of the river are low there
is a profusion of bananas and plantains, growing
from bulbs, which have been brought down from the
interior, and deposited by the river in its overflows.
Mr. H, had once ascended the river to its source,
in the elevated mining district of New Segovia, the
extreme north-western department of Nicaragua.
The ascent had occupied him twenty days. In
many places, he said, the channel is completely in-
terrupted by falls and impassable rapids, around
which it was necessary to drag the canoes. In
other places the river is compressed between verti-
cal walls of rock, and the water runs with such
force that it required many attempts and the most
vigorous exertions to get the boats through.
He represented that New Segovia has a consider-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
262 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
atle population of civilized Indians, whose princi-
pal occupation is the washing of gold, which is
found in all of the upper waters. Their mode of
life he descrihed ae affording a curious illustration of
the influence of the Cathohc priests, who are scat-
tered here and there, and who exercise almost un-
bounded influence over the simple natives. The
natiu:e of their relationship, as well as their own
manners, were so well illustrated by an incident
which befell him during his visit there, that I shall
attempt to relate it, as nearly as possible in his own
words. The reader must bear in mind that the re-
cital was made in a fragmentary manner, in the in-
tervals of vigorous pufBng at a huge cigar, and that
I have taken the liberty of commencing at the be-
ginning of the story, and not at the end.
S. iait of aniij Site.
" On our nineteenth evening from the Cape,"
said H,, "after a fatiguing day of alternate poling
and paddling, we reached Pantasma, the extreme
frontier Segovian settlement on the river. As we
drew up to the bank, thankful for the prospect of
shelter and rest which the village held out, we were
surprised to hear the music of drums and pipes,
and, for a moment, were under the pleasing im-
pression that the people had, in some way, got in-
formation of our approach, and had taken this
mode of giving ua a welcome. However, we soon
saw -that the musicians were in attendance on a
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A TALE OF WANKS EIVEK, 263
white man, whose garb had a strange mixture of
civilized and eavage fashions. He regarded us curi-
onsiy for a few moments, and then, giving the near-
est musicians each a vigorous tick, he ran down to
the water, and bestowed upon all of us an equally
hearty emhrace ! Propounding a dozen inquiries
in a treath, he announced himself an Englishman
' in a d — ^1 of a fix,' whose immediate and over-
shadowiug ambition was, that all hands should go
straight to his hut and have something to drink 1
Our first impression was decidedly that the man
was -mad ; but we were undeceived when we got to
his house, which we found profusely supplied with
food, and where we were not long in making our-
selves thoraughly at home. Perhaps what we drank
had something to do with it, but certainly we near-
ly died with laughter in listening to our host's re-
cital of his adventures in Central America, and
especially of the way in whieli lie had got to Pan-
tasma, and came to have an escort of musicians.
" His name, he said, was Harry F — ■ . He
was the son of a London merchant, who was well
to do in the world. As usual with sons of such
papas, he had gone to school when younger, and
entered his father's establishment when old enough,
where, as the probable successor of the principal,
he was, in his own estimation at least, an important
personage, and, altogether, above work. He never-
theless affected a great liking for the packing de-
partment, for the reason that it connected with a
vault, in wliich he had established a amoking-room,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
264 THE MOSQUITO SHOEE
where he spent the day in devising plans of amuae-
ment for the night, in company with chosen spirits
and choice Havanas.
" "When he had reached his majorityj his father
thought it prudent to detach him from his asaocia-
tion8, hy giving him a little experience in the sever-
ities of the world. Having several friends in Belize,
he fitted him out with an adventure, costing some
twenty-five hundred dollars, and consisting of
nearly every useless article that could be found,
which, by its glitter and gaud, it was supposed,
would attract the easily- dazzled eyes of the people
of the tropics. He duly arrived at Belize, full of
bright anticipations. One of his cherished schemes
was to sell his jewelry in the towns of the interior,
at four hundred per cent, profit, and after paying
expenses and losses, to return at once to London,
with five thousand dollars clear profit ! So he went
to Guatemala, and spread out his tempting wares.
But he met with poor success, and at the end of
two years, having gone on from bad to worse, he at
last found himself in the Indian town where we
discovered him— a Catholic Mission, under a Rev-
erend Padre, who had been educated at Leon, and
had passed most of his simple hfe, being now over
threescore and ten, among the simple Indians,
whom he governed. When Harry first an-ived, he
proceeded to the nearest hut, where the usual hospi-
tality of room to hang his hammock was accorded
him, while his valise was installed in a corner — said
valise containing the remnants of the venture from
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A TALE OF WANKS IIIVER. 265
London, now "dwindled down to a very small
compass indeed. Of liis success in trading, Harry
spoke very frankly : ' The hardest lot of worthless
articlee I ever saw ; some that I could not even
give away ; and those which I sold, I had to trust to
people so poor that they never paid me ! So I let
one man pick out all he had a mind to, for one
thousand dollars in cash ; and that paid my expen-
ses in Guatemala, until I got tired of the place, and
started off down here,'
" After swinging his hammock in his new quar-
ters, Harry made the tour^of the village, and called
on the padre, who was delighted to see Kim, as
padres always are, took him to his church, which
was as large as a city parlor, and then gave him a
good dinner of fish and turtle. Harry had not had
so sumptuous a meal for many a day ; and when
the good father hrought forth a joint of hamhoo,
which held nearly a gallon, and drew from it a
supply of tolerable rum, he felt that he had fallen
into the hands of a good Samaritan. So long as
this hospitality lasted, he sought no change. In
the fuUness of his gratitude, he made visits to all
the huts in the village, and overwhelmed the
inmates with presents of articles which he had not
been able to give away in other places. In return,
they gave him part of a morning's fishing, or part
of a turtle, and thus kept him in provisions. But
times changed after a few days ; his friend the
padre ceased to bring forth the hamhoo joint, and
at the same time commenced, to exhort him to
HosleflbyGoOgk'
26(5 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
repentancej and to the acceptance of the true
church. His host, too, declined to catch any more
fish than were consumed by hie interesting wife and
three naked children.
" Harry smoked long and intensely over the euh-
jeet. He might make a ' raise ' on a pair of panta-
loons, but then, ' when that was gone ?' It was
the fii«t time in his life that he had been obliged
seriously to reflect how he should be able to get his
next meal. He tried oranges, bananas, and pine-
apples, but still he was hungry. As to fishing, he
had never caught a fish in his life, and a turtle
would be perfectly safe under his feet. His case
became desperate. Such cases require desperate
remedies, and Harry went to the padre, to consult
with him as to the best mode of reaching Leon, dis-
tant some two hundred miles, beyond the mountains.
" It was a lucky moment for a visit to the reverend
father, since, in return for some hides, eareaparilla,
and balsam, sent by him to his correspondent, the
padre at Choluteca, a large town on the Pacific, he
had received, among other luxuries, a reenforcement
of bamboo joints. These had already added to his
good humor, and given to his fat corporation and
ruddy face an unusual glow, He gave Harry a
warm greeting, and pointing to the broached joint,
told him to help himself, which he did without re-
serve, Harry, in his best, though very bad Span-
ish, stated his case, and the holy father listened
and replied. The next morning our hero awoke,
and was rather surprised to find himself yet at the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A TALE OF WANKS KIVEE, 267
padre's house, where he had slept in a hammock.
An empty bamboo joint was beside him, and he
had a ghmmering idea of a compact with the
padre, through which he was to he extricated from
his present uncomfortable position, and reach Leon
in a most acceptable manner. Eat how this was to
be done had escaped him ; he had only a faint rec-
ollection that the padre had insisted upon initiating
him into some mystery or other, and that in the
fullness of heart he had assented, to the great joy of
the priest, who, on the spot had given him a hearty
embrace, and commenced learning him how to
make the sign of the cross. The worthy padre
awoke with rather different sensations, for he felt
exalted with the thought that he, a poor priest over
a miserable Indian community for forty years,
should finally be able to rescue the soul of a heretic
from the arch enemy. He was thankful that his
eloquence had enabled him to attach an immortal
being to the true church — a white one at that, who
was of more value than a whole community of sav-
ages. It was a miracle, ho was satisfied, of his
patron saint, Leocadia ! So without loss of time
he proceeded with the work of redemption. Harry
proved an apt disciple ; and after mating up a lot
of cigars from the tobacco-pouch of the padre, the
latter proceeded to explain to him what he required
in the premises. Harry's mouth opened, and his
cigar fell unheeded to the ground, when the padre
announced his intention to administer to him th<i
rite of baptism without delay,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
2«8 THE MOSQUITO BHOKK.
" By the time lie had finished his explanation,
Harry's mind was made up ; as there wore no look-
ers on whom he cared for, he would let the padre
have his way, or, as he afterward expressed it,
' put him through,'
" For several days the padre and himself worked
hard. He went carefully over the various responses
and prayers, as they wero dictated to him, made
the sign of the cross in due form and proper place,
and, by the assistance of the bamboo joint, was, on
the second day pronounced in a hopeful state, and
told that the afternoon following should witness the
final act of his salvation. The sun was declining,
when Harry, habited in his best, proceeded to the
padre's house. He was rather surprised at meeting
so many people, for he had not been consulted in
any of the arrangements, and was not aware that
every native in the vicinity had been notified of the
ceremony in which he was to take so important a
part. All had come, men, women, and children,
dressed in very scanty, but very clean white cotton
garments. They opened a passage for him to enter
the padre's house, whom he found arrayed in his
priestly vestments. He was informed that all were
about proceeding to his house to escort him to the
church, but that, being on the spot, the procession
would form at once. Harry submitted without
question to the padre's directions, had a quiet in-
terview with the bamboo joint, and was ready.
The procession was headed by four alcaldes, of dif-
ferent villages, each with his official baton, a tall,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A TALE OF WANKS RIVEE. WV
gold-headed staff. Next came the music, consisting
of three performers on rude clarionets, made of long
joints of cane, and three performers on drums, each
made of a lai^e calabash -with a monkey-skin drawn
over it. Next came Harry and the worthy padre,
and then the people of the village, and the ' invited
guests,' six deep, and a hundred all told. When
our hero took his place in the procession, the padre
threw over his shoulders a poncho, six feet long,
gaudily decorated with the taUs of macaws, bright
feathers from strange birds, and strings of small
river-shells, which rattled at every step ; and thus
they started, First they went to Harry's own hut,
and, a^ they doubled that, and took their route
toward the church, he could see the last of the pro-
cession leaving the vicinity of the padre's house.
After the manner of their processions on high relig-
ious festivals, they came singing and dancing, and
altogether appearing very happy, Harry was glad
in his heart that no white man was looking on, and
had to laugh inwardly at the fuss that was made
over him. In due time they arrived at the church,
and the usual ceremonies of baptism were gone
through with, succeeded by a dance, on the grass,
to say nothing of a liberal dispensation from the
padre's bamboo joints. The padre dismissed the
assembly very early, and retired, never having had
so glorious or so fatiguing a day within his memory,
and he was the oldest inhabitant !
" Harry wended his way to his hammock, made
a cig-ar, thought over the events of the day, and
HosleflbyGoOgk'
270 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
wondered whether the church was now bound to
find him fish and the et ceteras ; hut, before any
conclusion could be come at in his mind, he fell
asleep. Awaking in the morning, he was accosted
at his door by several neighbors, who asked him to
accept the -presents they had brought, which he did
of course, without knowing that it is always the
custom to send something to every villager when-
ever he happens to have a christening, a marriage,
or a death in his family. This being a very great
occasion, every body had been hberal and generous
withal, and in a short space he found himself sup-
phed with provisions for a long time, more feh than
he could eat in months, turtles, chickens, pigs,
eggs, piles of fruit of all kinds, yams, wild animals,
in fact every thing that was edible. Sending a
large part of his presents as an offering to the
church, Harry returned to his hammock and cigar,
while his hostess commenced cooking with an agree-
able alacrity.
" Late in the afternoon he started for the padre's
house, but had hardly emerged from his hut when
he was somewhat surprised to find himself joined
by the musicians of the village, the clarionet taking
precedence, and the drum iiling in, both playing
the usual no-tune to the best of their ability. And
thus it happened for weeks afterward, for thus did
the padre seek to do honor to the new disciple of
the faith,
" It was on one of these formal promenades,"
continued H,, "that we made our appearance at
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A TALE OF WANKS BIVEfi. 271
Pantasma, to Harry's exceeding astonishment, and
great joy. "We ridiculed him for liis emphatic dia-
missal of his musical friends, hut lie was too much
delighted to be captious, and sent straightway for
the padre, who brought with him a hamboo-joint,
wherewith we made merry, even to the going down
of the sun. "We all went to sleep while the worthy
priest was reading to us the certificate of Harry's
baptism, which he had carefully engrossed on five
closely-written pages."
And what, I imjuired, became of the convert ?
" Oh ! he returned with us ; and that old Port
which you tasted at the Cape is one of the many
evidences wkich I have received of his grateful
recollection, since he has returned to London to
the inheritance of his fathers."
HosleflbyGoOgk'
till ( lU\ itter om parting
' \Mtli H, we kept on om course tip
^ tlie Grcit Cipc rivei The cui-
lent mpieised as we advanced, and
latge rockt rt quait/ and grinite began to apptar
in the channel The -valley of the mer also con-
tracted to &uch a degiee as to de'-ei\e no hetter
name than that of a goige Sometimes we found
our&ehes, tur miles togethei shut in between high
mountamfc, whose rugged ind verduieles'' tops lose
to mid-heaven, interposing impa'isable baniers to
the \apoi chaiged clouds winch the north eist trade-
winds pde up igainst then eistrm declivities, wheie
HosleflbyGoOgk'
TBOPICAL THUNDER-STORMS. 2TS
they are precipitated in almost unceasing rains.
Night and storm overtook us in one of these gigan-
tic mountain clefts. The thunder rolled along the
granite peaks, and the lightning burned adowu
their riven sides, and were flashed ha«k by the
dark waters of the angry river. The dweller in
northern latitudes can poorly comprehend any de-
scription which may he given of a tropical storm.
To say that the thunder is incessant, does not ade-
quately convey to the mind the terror of these pro-
longed peals which seem to originate in the horizon,
roll upward to the zenith, louder and louder, until,
silent for a moment, they burst upon the earth in
hlinding flame, and a concentrated crash, which
makes the very mountains reel to their foundations.
Not from one direction alone, hut from every quar-
ter of the compass, the elements seem to gather to
the fierce encounter, and the thunder booms, and
the lightning hlazea from a hundred rifts in the
inky sky. So intense and searing is the electric
flame, that for hours after heavy storms I have had
spasmodic attacks of blindness, accompanied with
intense pain of the eyeballs. I found that my In-
dian companions were equally affected, and that to
avoid evil consequences they always bound their
handkerchiefs, dipped in water, over their eyes,
while the storm continued. The Indians, I may
here mention, have many prejudices on the subject
of electricity, as well as in regard to the effect of the
rays of the moon. They will not sleep with their faces
exposed to its light, nor catch fish on the nights when
HosleflbyGoOgk'
274 THE MOSQUITO SHOKB.
it is above the horizon. My companions, at such
times, always selected the densest shade for our en-
eampment. They affirmed that the effect of expos-
ure would he the distortion of the features, and the
immediate mortification of such wounds and bruises
as might be reached by the moonlight. I after-
ward found that the mahogany-cutters on the
north coast never feUed their trees at certain periods
of the moon, for the reason, as they asserted, that
the timber was then not only more hable to check
or split, but also more exposed to rot. They have
the same notion with the Indians as to the effect of
the moonlight on men and animals, and support it
by the fact that animals, left to themselves, al-
ways seek shelter from the moon, when selecting
their nightly resting-places.
We had now ascended the river, five full days
from the Cape, having, according to my computa-
tion, advanced one hundred and twenty miles. The
Poyer was perfectly acquainted with the stream,
which he had several times descended with the peo-
ple of his village, in their semi-annual visits to the
coast. In these visits, he told me, they took down
licLuid amber, a few deer-skins, a little anotto, and
sarsaparilla, bringing back iron, barbs for theiT ar-
rows, knives, machetes, and a few articles of orna-
ment.
On the night of the fifth day, we encamped at
the mouth of the Tirolas, a considerable stream,
which enters the Wanks from the north, and up
which we, next morning, took our course. Out ad-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
RIVER TiltOLAS. 275
vance was now slow and laborious, owing to the
rapidity of the current, and the numerous rocks
and fallen trees which obstructed the channel.
The river wound among hills, which increased in
altitude as we penetrated farther inland, until I
discovered that we were approaching the great
mountain range, which traverses the country from
south-west to north-east, constituting the " divide,"
or water-shed, as I afterward found, between the
valley of the Cape Eiver and the streams which
flow northward into the Bay of Honduras. Hour
by hour we came nearer to this great harrier, which
presented to us a steep and apparently inaccessible
front. I was rather appalled when my Poyer told
me that the village of his people lay beyond this
range, over which we would be obhged to chmb in
order to reach it. However, there was now no al-
ternative left hut to go ahead, so I gave myself no
further concern, although I could not help wonder-
ing how wo were to clamber up the dizzy steeps
which appeared more and more abrupt as we ap-
proached them.
It was on the second evening after leaving the
great river, that we reached the head of canoe navi-
gation on the Tirolas, at a point where two bright
streams, tumbling over their rocky beds, united in
a placid pool of clear water, at the very feet of the
mountains. It was a spot of surpassing beauty.
The pool was, perhaps, a hundred yards broad, and,
in places, twenty or thirty feet deep, yet so clear
that every pebble at the bottom, and every fish
HosleflbyGoOgk'
276 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
which sported m it? crystj.! depths mcil distmctlT
visible to the eje Upjn one eide r -^.e hu^o h^^J
rocks of granite, driped ovei with vines ind shad
owed hy large and wide sprt idmg tiees whose
, crowded nith the wax hke leaves and
flowers of innumerable air-plants, east dart, broad
shadows on the water. Upon the other side was a
smooth, sandy beach, completely sheltered from the
sun by large trees, beneath which were drai,vn up a
number of canoes, carefully protected from the
weather by rude sheds of cahoon leaves. These
HosleflbyGoOgk'
TIROLAS EMEAKCADEEO. 277
canoea belonged to the Poyer Indians, and are
need by them in their voyages to the Cape. A
little lower down the stream were clusters of palm-
trees, and large patches of bananas and plantains,
which seemed to have been carefully nurtnred by
the Indians in their visits to this pictnresquo " em-
barcadero."
The slant rays of the evening sun fell upon one
half of the pool, where the httle ripples chased
each other sparkling to the shore, while upon the
other part, the rocks and forest east their cool, dark
shadows. And as our canoe shot in upon its trans-
parent bosom, I could not help joining in my
Poyer boy's shout of joy. Even "El Moro" flut-
tered his bright wings, and screamed in sympathetic
glee. A few vigorous strokes of the paddles, and
our eanoe drove up half its length on the sandy
shore, the sharp pebbles grating pleasantly beneath
its keel. For the present, at least, I had done with
lagoons and rivers, and a new excitement awaited
me among the giddy steeps and untracked solitudes
of the mountains. Earewell now to the cramped
canoe, and the eternal succession of low and tan-
gled banks ; and ho, for the free limb and the ex-
panding chest of the son of the forest !
With glad alacrity, my companions and myself
set to work to form our encampment, on the clean
dry sand. Then came Antonio, laden with the
golden clusters of the plantain, while the spear of
the Poyer darted down in the clear waters of the
pool with unfailing skill. The rousing fire, the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
278 THE MOSQUITO SHORE. '
mtirimir of the mountain-torrents, and the distant
cry of the fierce black tiger, the satisfied sense of
having safely accomplished an arduous undertaking,
high anticipations of new adventures, and the con-
sciousness of heing the first white man who had
ever trusted himself in these unknown fastnesses —
all these, joined to the contagious joy of my faith-
ful companions, combined to give the keenest edge
and zeat to that night's enjoyment. In my darkest
hours, its recollection comes over my soul like a
beam of sunlight through the rifts of a clouded
sky—-" a joy forever." Blessed memory, which en-
ables us to live over again the delights of the past,
and gives an eternal solace to the cheerful mind !
That night I made a fonnal present of the canoe
and its appurtenances to my Poyer hoy, and we se-
lected such articles as were indispensable to us,
leaving the rest to be sent for by the Indians when
we should reach the village. My purpose was to
commence our march at dawn on the following day.
But in the morning I arose with one of my feet bo
swollen and painful that I could neither put on my
boot nor walk, except with great dif&cidty. The
cause was, outwardly, very trifling. During the
previous day the water in the Tirolas had been so
shallow that it frequently became necessary to get
out of the canoe and lighten it, in order to pass the
various rapids, I had therefore taken off my boots,
and gone into the water with my naked feet. I re-
member stepping on a rolling stone, slipping off,
and bruising my ankle. The hurt was, however, so
HosleflbyGoOgk'
AN ACCIDENT. 279
Blight, that 1 did not give it a second thought.
But, from this trifling cause, my foot and ankle
were now swollen to nearly double their natural
size, and the proaecution of my journey, for the time
being, was rendered impossible. Under the tropics,
serious coneequencGH often follow from these slight
causes. I have known tetanus to result from a lit-
tle wound, of the size of a pea, made by extracting
the bag of a nigua or chigoe, which had burrowed
in the foot !
The sldll- of my companions was at once put in
requisition. They made a poultice of ripe plan-
tains baked in the ashes, and mixed with cocoa-nut
oil, which was apphed hot to the affected parts. This
done, our canoe was hauled up, and an extempore
roof built over it, to protect me from the weather,
in case it should happen to change for the worse.
I passed a fretful night, the pain being very great,
and the swelling extending higher and higher, until
it had reached the knee. The applications had no
perceptible effect. Under these circumstances, I
determined to send my Poyer to his village for as-
sistance. He represented it as distant five days,
but that it could be reached, by forced marches, in
four. He objected to leave me, but on the second
day, my foot being no better, he obeyed my positive
orders, and started, taking with him only a little
dried meat, his spear, and his bow.
Antonio now redoubled his attentions, and I cer-
tainly stood in need of them. The pain kept me
from slumber, and I became irritable and feverish.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
But no mother could have been more constant,
more patient, or more wakeful to every want than
that faithful Indian boy. He exhausted his simple
remedies, and still the limb becanie worse, and the
unwilling conviction seemed to be forced on his
mind, that the case waa beyond his reach. When,
in the intervals of the pain, he thought me slumber-
ing, I often saw him consult his talisman with un-
disguised anxiety. He however, always seemed to
feel reassured by it, and to become more cheerful.
On the third day a suppuration appeared at
the ankle, and the pain and swelling diminished ;
and on the succeeding morning I probed the wound,
and, to my surprise, removed a amaU splinter of
stone, which had been the cause of all my affliction.
From that moment my improvement was rapid, and
I was soon able to move about without difficulty.
I amused myself much with fiahing in the pool,
in which there were large numbers of an active kind
of fish, varying from ten to sixteen inches in length,
of reddish color, and voracious appetites. Toward
evening, when the flies settled down near the sur-
face, they rose like the trout, and kept the pool
boiling with their swift leaping after their prey. I
improved my hmited experience in ily-iishing at
home, to devise impromptu insects, and astonished
Antonio with that, to him, novel device in the pis-
catory art. These fish, with an occasional wild tur-
key, the latter generally tough and insipid, consti-
tuted about our only food. Ducks, curlews, and
snipe, so common in the vicinity of the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
A STEANGE ADVENTUBE. 281
were here unknown, and we Kstened in vain for the
cry of the ckachalaca. There were, however, numer-
ous birds of song, aud of bright plumage, but not
fit for food. I saw some owls ; and now and then
a lai^e hawk would settle down sullenly on the trees
which overhung the pool, Q-ray-squirrels also occa-
sionally rustled the branches above our heads, but
the foliage was so dense that I was only successful
in obtaining a single specimen. Once a squadron
of monkeys came trooping through the tree-tops to
rob the plantain-grove, but a charge of buckshot,
which brought two of tbem to the ground, was ef-
fectual in deterring them from a second visit. They
were of a small variety, body black, face white, and
"whiskered like a pard." Antonio cooked one of
them in the sand, but he looked so much like a
singed baby which I once saw taken out of the rains
of a fire in Ann-street, that I could not bring my-
self to taste him. So my Indian had an undisputed
monopoly of the monkey.
But the most exciting incident, connected with
our stay on the banks of the Tirolas, was one which
I can never recall without going into a fit of laugh-
ter — although, at the time, I did not regard it as re-
markably amusing. Among the wild animals most
common in Central America, is the peccary, some-
times called " Mexican hog," but best known by
the Spanish name of Savalino. There is another
animal, something similar to the peccary, supposed
to be the common hog run wild, called Javalino by
the Spaniards, and Waree by the Mosquitos. If not
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
18, the latter certainly have multiphed to
an enormous extent, since they swarm all over the
more thickly- wooded portions of the country. They
closely resemble the wild-boar of Europe, and, al-
though less in size, seem to be equally ferocious.
They go in droves, and are not at all particular as
to their food, eating ravenously snakes and reptiles
of all kinds. They have also a rational relish for
fruits, and especially for plantains and bananas,
and would prove a real scourge to the plantations,
were they always able to break down the staJks sup-
porting the fruit. Unable to do this, they never-
theless pay regular visits to the plantations, in the
hope of finding a tree blown down, and of feasting
on the fallen clusters,
"With these intimations as to their character and
habits, the reader will be better qualified to appre-
ciate the incident alluded to. It was a pleasant
afternoon, and I had strolled off with my gun, in
the direction of the plantain-patch, stopping occasion-
ally to listen to the clear, ilute-like notes of some
unseen bird, or to watch a brilhant lizard, as it flashed
across the gray stones. Thus sauntering carelessly
along, my attention was suddenly arrested by a pe-
cuhar noise, as if of some animal, or rather of many
animals engaged in eating. I stopped, and peered
in every direction to discover the cause, when finally
my eyes rested upon what I at once took to be a
pig of most tempting proportions. He was moving
slowly, with his nose to the ground, as if in search
of food. Without withdrawing my gaze, I carefully
HosleflbyGoOgk'
BATTLE OF THK PIGS ! 283
raised my gun, and flred. It was loaded with buck-
shot, and although the animal fell, he rose again
immediately, and began to make off. Of course I
hurried after hira, with the view of finishing my
work with my knife — but I had not taken ten steps,
when it appeared to me as if every stick, stone, and
buah had been converted into a pig ! Hogs rose on
all sides, with bristling backs, and tusks of appall-
ing length. I comprehended my danger in an
instant, and had barely time to leap into the forks
of a Jow, scraggy tree, before they were at its foot.
I shall never forget the malicious look of their little
bead-like eyes, as they raved around my roosting-
place, and snapped ineffectually at my heels. Al-
though I felt pretty se-
cure, I discreetly clam-
bered higher, and, fixing
myself firmly in my seat,
revenged myself by firing
a charge of bird-shot in
the face of the savagest of TaawiREB
my assailants. This insult
only excited the brutes the more, and they ground
their teeth, and frothed around the tree in a perfect
paroxysm of porcine rage.
I next loaded both barrels of my gun with bail,
and dehberately shot two others through their
heads, killing them on the spot, vainly imagining
that thereby I should disperse the herd. But never
was man more mistaken. The survivors nosed
around their dead companions for a moment, and
HosleflbyGoOgk'
284 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
then renewed their vicious contemplations of my
position. Some BC[uatted themselves upon their
hams, as much as to say that they intended to
vra.it for me, and were nowise in a huny ! So I
loaded up again, and slaughtered two more of- the
largest and most spitefu]. But, even then, there
were no signs of retreat ; on the contrary, it seemed
to me as if reenforcements sprang out of the ground,
and that my hesiegers grew every moment more nu-
merous !
How long this might have lasted, I am unpre-
pared to say, had not Antonio, alarmed at my
rapid firing, hastened to my rescne. No sooner did
my assailants catch sight of his swarthy figure than
they made after him with a vehement rush. He
avoided them by leaping upon a roclc, and then com-
menced a most extiaordinary and murderous contest,
Nevei did a battalion of veteran soldiers charge
upon an enerav. with more steadiness than those
wild pigs upon the Indian, He was armed with
only a lance, but every blow brought down a porker.
Half alarmed lest they should finally overmatch
him, I cheered his exploits, and kept up a brisk
fire by way of a diversion in his favor, I am
ashamed to say how many of those pigs we killed ;
it is, perhaps, enough to add, that it was long after
dark before the beasts made up their minds to leave
ns uneaten. And it was with a decided sensation
of relief that we heard them moving off, until their
low grunt was lost in the distance.
At one time, the odds were certainly against us,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
DEPAKTURK FROM THl:; TIROJ.Ari. 285
and it seemed not improbable tliat the artist and
his adventures might both come to a pitiful and far
from a poetical end. But fortune favored, and my
faithful gun now han^ over my table in boar-tusk
brackets, triumphal trophies from that bloody
field ! Instead of being eaten, we ate, wherein
consists a difference ; hut I was ever after wary of
the waree !
True to his promise, on the evening of the tenth
day, my Poyer boy bounded into our encampment,
with a loud shout of joy. His friends were behind,
and he said would reach us in the following after-
noon. There were five of them, sober, silent men,
who made their encampment apart from us, and
whom I vainly endeavored to engage m conversa-
tion. They displayed great aptness m packing our
various articles in net-work sacks, which they car-
ried on their backs, supported by bands passing
around their foreheads. They woie no clothes ex-
cept the tournou, unless sandak of tapir-hide, and
a narrow-brimmed hat, braided of palm-bark, fall
within that denomination. Besides his sack, each
man carried a pecuhar kind of machete, short and
curved like a pruning-hook ; only one or two had
bows.
It was with real regret that I left our encamp-
ment beside the bright pool, and abandoned my old
and now familiar canoe, in the sides of which, like
a true Yankee, I had carved my name, and the
dates of my adventures. I turned to look hack
more than once, as we filed away, beneath the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
286 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
trees, in the trail leading to tlie mountaiiiB. The
Indians led the way, while Antonio and myself
hrought up the rear. " El Moro," perched upon the
tallest pack, shrieked and fluttered his -wings, occa-
sionally scrambUng down to take a mischievous hite
at the ear of his Indian carrier. Whenever he was
successful in accomplishing this feat, he became
superlatively happy and gleeful In default of
other amusement, he sometimes suspended himself
from the netting by a single claw, like a dead bird,
with drooping wings and danghng head, and then
suddenly scrambled hack again to his perch, with
triumphant screams. He was a rare rollicking bird,
that same Moro J
!For the first day our course followed a line nearly
parallel with the base of the mountains, through a
thick and tangled forest. We crossed innumerable
small and rapid streams of the clearest water, spark-
ling over beds of variously-colored quartz pebbles —
for we were now skirting one of the great ranges of
primitive rocks, which form the nucleus of the con-
tinent. My long confinement in the canoe had con-
tributed to discLuahfy me for active exertions, and
long before night I became much fagged, and would
fain have gone into camp. But the Indians trav-
eled so tranquilly under their loads, that I was loth
to discover to them my lack of endurance, and so
kept on without complaint. In the afternoon our
path began to ascend, and we gradually emerged
irom the thick and tangled woods into a compara-
tively open forest, which, in turn, gave place to
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE MOGKTAIN SIDE. 287
groves of scattered pines and oaks, among ■which we
encamped for the night.
From OUT elevated position I could overlook the
wilderness which we had traversed during the d?iy.
It was at that season of the year when the erythrina
puts on its scarlet robe of blossoms, and the ceiba
clothes itself in flames, in splendid relief to the pre-
vailing green. It seemed as if Nature held high
holiday among these primeval solitudes, and arrayed
herself only to wanton in the sense of her own
beauty. But while vegetation was thus lavishly
luxuriant in the valley, behind us the mountains
rose, stem, steep, and bare. Vainly the dark pines,
clinging to their sides, sought to vail their flinty
frown. Wherever a little shelf of the rocks sup-
ported a scanty bed of soil, there the mountain
grasses, and the eensitive-plant with its amaranth-
ine flower, took root, like kindly thoughts in the
heart of the hard and worldly man. From the
gnarled oaks, and even from the unfading pines,
hung long festoons of gray moss, which swayed
sadly in the wind. And when the night came on,
and I lay down beside the fire, beneath their shade,
they seemed to murmur in a low and mournful
voice to the passing breeze, which, laden with the
perfume of the valley, rose with downy wings to
bear its tributary incense to the skies.
Morning broke, but dark and gloomily, and al-
though WG resumed our march, directing our course
diagonally up the face of the mountain, we were
obliged to stop before noon, and seek shelter under
HosleflbyGoOgk'
288 THE MOSQUITO SHOKE.
a mass of projecting rocks, from a cold, drizzly rain,
■which now began to fall steadily, with every prom-
ise of merging in a protracted temporal. The
cloude ran low, and drifted around and below us, in
heavy, cheerless volumes, shutting from view every
object except the pines and stunted oaks, in their
gray, monastic robes, now saturated and heavy from
the damp. Stowing our few valuables securely un-
der the rocks, we lighted a fire, now acceptable not
less for its heat than its companionship. Its cheer-
ful flame, and the sparkle of its embers, revived
my drooping spirits, and helped to reconcile me to
the imprisonment which the temporal would be
sure to entail. I can readily understand how fire
commended itself to the primitive man as an em-
blem of purity and power, and became the symbol
of spirit and those invisible essences which pervade
the universe, G-od robed himself in flame on Si-
nai ; in tongues of flame the Spirit descended upon
the disciples at Jerusalem ; an eternal fire burned
upon the altars of the virginal Vesta, and in the
Persian Pyi-othea ; to fire was committed the sacri-
fice of propitiation, and by its ordeal was innocence
and purity made manifest. Among the American
Indians it was held in especial reverence. The
Delawares and the Iroquois had festivals in its
honor, and regarded it as the first parent of the In-
dian nations. The Cherokees paid their devotions
to the " great, beneficent, supreme, holy Spirit of
Fire," whose home was in the heavens, but who
dwelt also on earth, in the hearts of " the unpol-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
ANOTHER TEMPORAL. 289
luted people." And even the rude Indians who
huddled with me beneath the protecting rocks in
the heart of the -wilderness, never commenced their
simple meals without iirst throwing a small portion
of their food in the iire, as an offering to the pro-
tecting Spirit of Life, of which it is the genial
The temporal lasted for three days, during which
time it rained almost incessantly, and it was withal
so cold, that a lai^e and constant fire was necessary
to our comfort. At the end of that time the clouds
hegan to lift, and the sun hrobe through the rifts,
and speedily dispersed the watery legions. But the
locks were slippery with the wet, and the earth,
wherever it was found among the rocks, was sodden
and unstable, rendering our advance alike disagree-
ahle and dangerous. We remained, therefore, until
the morning of the fourth day, when we resumed
our march.
13
HosleflbyGoOgk'
OR a day and a half wo continued
i to ascend, now skirting dizzy pre-
^,^^:rT' ■ I cipiees, and next stealing along
I cautiously beneath beetling rocks,
which hung heavily on the brow of the mountain.
The features of the great valley which we had left
were no longer distinguishable. What we had re-
garded as mountains there, now shrunk into simple
undulations, hke folds in some silken robe, tlirown
loosely on the ground. There was no longer a foot-
hold for the pines, and their places were suppKed
by low hushes, thrusting their roots deep in the
clefts, and clinging like vines to the faces of the
rocks.
Finally, to my great joy, we reached the crest of
the mountain. Upon the north, however, it fell
HosleflbyGoOgk'
MOUNTAIN SCENEBT. 291
away in a series of broad steps or terraces, lower
and lower, until, in the dim distance, it subsided in
the vast alluvial plains bordering on the Bay of
Honduras, the waters of which could be distin-
guished, like a silver rim, on the edge of the hori-
zon.
The air, on these high plateaus, was chill, and
only the hardy mountain-grasses and the various
forms of cactus found root in their thin and sterile
soil. The latter were numerous and singular.
Some appeared above the earth, simple, fluted
globes, radiating with, spines, and having in their
centre a little tuft of crimson flowers. Others were
mere articulated prisms, tangled in clumps, and
also bristling with pricHes, But the variety, known
in Mexico as the nopal, was most abundant, and
grew of tree-like proportions.
Few as were these forms of vegetable life, ani-
mals and birds wcTe fewer still. An occasional deer
contemplated us at a distance, and a httio animal,
similar to the prairie-dog of the "West, tumbled
hurriedly into his hole aa we approached his soli-
tary covert. In places, the disintegrated quartz
rock appeared above the surface for wide distances,
reflecting back the rays of the sun, which seemed
to pour down with unwonted and bhnding bril-
liancy, from a cloudless sky. I could scarcely com-
prehend the sudden change from the region of the
lagoons, where the overladen earth sweltered be-
neath forests teeming with life, and the air was op-
i with the cloying odors of myriads of flowers.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
292 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
and tills stem region, ribted with focl;, where Na-
ture herself seemed paralyzed, and silence held an
eternal reign.
It was a singular spectacle, that little troop of
ours, as it hurried ' rapidly across these mountain
wastes, or huddled closely together, when night
came on, around a scanty fire, made of wood which
the Poyer hoy, with wise prevision, had deposited
there, on his return to the Tirolas. As we descended
from terrace to terrace, we came again into the region
of pines and oaks, which, in their turn, gave place
to forests of other varieties of trees, interrupted by
stripe of open or savannah lands. We early struck
a little stream, which, I observed, we followed con-
stantly. It proved to be the branch of the great
river Patuca, upon which the Poyer village is sit-
uated, and bore the musical name of Guallambre.
At night, when wc encamped, the Poyer boy took a
calabash, and, motioning to mo to follow, led the
way down the stream to a little sand-bar. Scoop-
ing up some of the sand in his bowl, and then fill-
ing it with water, he whirled it rapidly, so that a
feathery stream of mingled sand and water flew
constantly over its edge. He continued this opera-
tion until the sand was nearly exhausted, and then
flUed the bowl again. After repeating this process
several times, he grew more careful, balancing the
bowl skillfully, and stopping occasionally to pick
out the pebbles, which, owing to their weight, had
not been carried over by the water.
I understood at once that this was the primitive
HosleflbyGoOgk'
WASHING GOLD. Zya
mode of washing gold, and was, therefore, not
greatly surprised when, after the process was com-
plete, the Poyer showed me a little deposit of gold,
in grains, at the bottom of the calabash, ecLual to
about a fourth of an ounce in- weight. He then
told me that all the streams, flowing down the
mountains toward the north, carried gold in their
sands, and that the latter were frec[uently washed
by his people, to obtain the means of purchasing
such articles of civilized manufacture as they might
need from the Spaniards of Olancho, and the trad-
era who visited the coast.*
On the eighth day from our encampment on the
Tirolas, after a laborious march among heavily-
wooded hills, following, for most of the distance,
the bed of the Guallamhre, now Swollen to a con-
siderable stream, we reached the Poyer village. I
say village, for such it was, in fact, although com-
posed of but a single house ! This was a substan-
tial structure, forty paces in length, and tten broad,
supported on stout posts, and heavily thatched with
palm-leaves. The front and ends were open, but
* The whole district of country lying on the north flank of the
moantaiiis which bound the valley of the Rio Wanks, in the aamo
direction, enjoys a wide celebrity for its rich deposits of gold. There
ia harcUy a Btream of which the aaads do not yield a liberal propor-
tion of that precious metal Yet, strange to say, the washing ia
confined almost exclusively to the Indians, who seek to obtain no
more than ia jnst mfficient to supply theh limited wants. Among
the redaced, or, as they are c^ed, christianized Indians, m the
vtjley of Olancho, the women only wash the gold for a few hours on
Sunday mommg. With the supply Uius ob^ned, they proceed to
the towns, attend msaa, and make their petty purchases, devotii^
the rest of the weak Xo the fiillest enjoyment of the dolmfiir nienle.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
Si94 T H !■; M S y IJ I T U B H K E ,
along the back extended a series of little apart-
ments, separated from each other by partitions of
the outer shells of the cahbage-palm, which, when
split and pressed flat, make good snbetitutes for
boards. These were the dormitories, or private
apartments of the mated or married occupants, and
of the girls. The places for the hoys were on ele-
vated platforms, beneath the roof. A row of stones,
set firmly in the ground, defined the outline of the
building. Within them the earth was elevated a
foot or more, to preserve it dry and unaffected by
the rains. The position was admirably chosen, on
a kind of step or shelf of a considerable hill, which
rose behind, clothed with dense verdure, while in
front it subsided rapidly to the stream, here tum-
bling noisily among the rocks, and yonder circling,
bubble-sprinkled, in dark pools, beneath the trees.
The ground around was beaten smooth and hard,
and numbers of tamed curassows stalked to and fro,
gravely elevating and depressing their crests ; while
within the building, and on its roof, numerous
parrots and macaws waddled after each other, or
exercised their voices in loud and discordant cries.
There were also a few pigs and ducks, all appearing
to be as much at home beneath the roof, as were
the naked Indian babies, with whom they mingled
on terms of perfect ecLuality,
My boy had gone ahead, and had returned to
meet us in company with two old men, who were
the lawgivers of the establishment, and who rever-
entially touched my knee with their foreheads, by
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE rOYEH VILLA&E, Wi
way of salutation. They said but a single word,
which I suppose was one of welcome, and then led
the way silently to the house. At one end a space
had been recently fenced off, containing two new
crickeries, within which my various articles were
deposited, and which were at once indicated to me
as my special apartment.
All the proceedings had heen conducted so rapid-
ly, that I was fairly installed in my novel quarters
before I was aware of it. Our arrival had evidently
been anticipated, for almost immediately the women
brought us hot rolls of a species of bread made of
ground cassava, baked in the ashes, with the addi-
tion of some stewed flesh of the tvaree, so tender
and savory that it would have commended itself to
a far more fastidious appetite than mine. I made
a prodigious meal, to the palpable satisfaction of
my faithful Poyer, who kept every calabash heaped
up with food.
As I have said, the Indians of Central America
differ widely from their fiercer brethren of our coun-
try, not less in their modes of life than in all their
social and civil relations. This Foyer community
afforded an example of a purely patriarchal oigani^
zation, in which the authority of paternity and of
age was recognized in the fullest degi'ee. Every
evening the old men, each taking a lighted brand,
gathered within a small circle of stones, at one
corner of the house, and there deliberated upon the
affeira of the community, and settled its proceedings
for the following day. In these conferences neithei
HosleflbyGoOgk'
298 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
the women nor young men were permitted to take
part. All the lahor of the community was per-
formed in common, and all shared ec[ually in the
results. In one or two of the recesses which I have
described, were some ancient and helpless crones,
who were treated with all the care and tenderness
of children. The whole estahhshment, according to
the best of my count, consisted of about one hun-
dred and forty persons, young and old, of whom
thirty-five were fiiU-grown men.
In figure the Foyers or Payaa are identical
with the Towkas and Woolwas, except more mus-
cular — the consequence, probably, of their cooler
climate and severer labor. The women were less
shy, perhaps from their more social mode of living.
In common with those of the coast, they go naked
to the waist, whence depends a sMrt of striped
cotton cloth, reaching to the knees. Their hair is
invariably parted in front, and held in place by a
cotton band, hound tightly around the forehead.
They were always occupied. Some, squatting on
the ground, spun the native cotton, of which all
the Indians raise small quantities, while others
wove it into cloth. Both processes were rude but
ingenious. The spindle consists of a small ball of
heavy wood, through which passes a thin shaft, the
whole resembling an overgrown top, the lower end
resting in a calabash, to prevent it from toppling
over. Some of the cotton is attached to this spin-
dle, which is twirled between the thumb and fore-
finger. "While it is in motion the thread is care-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
FOYER PEACTICES, 299
fiilly drawn out from a pile of cotton in tho lap of
the spinner. When it stopB tho thread ia wound on
the spindle, and the same process repeated. The
process of weaving was certainly a simple one, hut
after several unsatisfactory attempts to describe it,
I am ohliged to confess my inability to do so, in an
intelligible manner.
But a principal occupation of the women was the
grinding of maize for tortillas, and of preparing the
cassava. For these purposes there were a number
of flat stones elevated on blocks, which were called
by the Mexican name of metlatl. These were some-
what concave on the upper surface, in which fitted
a stone roller, worked by hand. With this the
maize was speedily ground to a fine consistence ;
tho paste was then made into small cakes, which
were baked rapidly on broad earthen platters, sup-
ported over brisk iires. The cakes require to he
eaten when crisp and hot, in order to be relished ;
for when cold they become heavy and tasteless.
Upon these stones they also crushed the stalks of
the indigenous sugar-cane to extract the juice,
which, mixed with powdered wild-cacao, is allowed
to ferment, constituting an agreeable and exhili-
rating beverage, called idv/ng.
Every morning aU the girls went down to the
stream to bathe, which they did without any over-
strained afiectation of modesty ; but the mothers
and old women always sought a spot secluded from
the general gaze. Ifc was only when thus engaged
that the girls were at all playful. They dashed the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
300 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
water in each others' faces, and sought to drag each
other under the surface, in the deep pools, ■where
they swam about as mermaids are supposed to do,
and aB if the water wa« their native element. At
all other times they were as distant and demure as
the daintiest damsels in all New England.
The Foyers are certainly a provident people.
Although there were no signs of plantations in the
vicinity of their establishments, yet, at various
points in the neighborhood, where there occurred
patches of rich interval land, were small fields of
Bugar-cane, plantains, scLuashes, maize, yucas, and
cEiasava, all protected by fences, and attended with
the utmost care. From every beam of the house
depended bunches of plantains and bananas, huge
yams, and dried flesh of various kinds, but chiefly
that of the waree, while closely packed, on plat-
forms under the roof, were a few bales of aarsapa-
rilla, which I found they were accustomed to carry
down to the coast for purposes of barter.
The Foyers or Payas, as I have intimated, are
eminently agriculturists, and although they some-
times follow the chase, it is not as a principal
means of support. Nor is it followed from any fan-
tastic notion of excitement or adventure, but in a
direct and downright manner, which is the very
reverse of what is called " sport." I had an exam-
ple of this in their mode of iishing, which CLuite
astonished all my previous notions on that subject,
and which evinced to me furthermore, that fishes,
although cold-blooded, are not exempt from having
HosleflbyGoOgk'
NEW MOUli OP FISHINK. ' 301
their heads turned, provided they are approached in
a proper maimer.
My Poyer boy, who was unwearying in his devices
to entertain and interest me, one day conceived a
brilliant idea, which he hastened to communicate to
the old men, who held a sober monexioo; or council
upon it, and resolved that there ehould be made a
grand demonstration upon the fish, for the double
purpose of amusing the stranger, and of replenish-
ing the supplies. The resolution, taken at night,
was carried into execution in the morning. While
a portion of the men proceeded down the stream to
construct a temporary wier of boughs, others col-
lected a large quantity of a species of vine called
ieqvdpe, which is common in the woods, has a ranli
growth, is full of juiee, and emits a pungent odor.
These vines were cut in sections, crushed between
stones, and placed in large earthen pots, left to
steep, over a slow fire.
I watched all the operations with curious interest.
About the middle of the afternoon they were com-
pleted ; the pots containing the decoctions were
duly shouldered, and we all started up the stream.
At the distance of perhaps a quarter of a mile, we
met a number of men wading down the channel,
and beating the water with long poles, by way of
concentrating the fish in the direction of the wiera.
Here the pots were simultaneously emptied in the
stream, which the contents tinged of a brownish
hue. Up to this moment, the various preparations
had greatly puzzled me, but now I discovered that
HosleflbyGoOgk'
302 THE MOSQUITO SHORB.
the purpose of the decoction was to poieon, or rather
to intoxicate the fish, which it did effectively ; for,
as we proceeded down the stream, numbers rose
strugghng to the surface, vainly endeavoring to stem
the current, which swept them toward the wiers.
At every step they hecame more numerous, until
the whole stream was thronged with them. Some
were CLuite stupefied, and drifted aJong helplessly,
while others made spasmodic efforts to resist the
potent influence of the beguipe. But, sooner or
later, they too drifted down, with a faint wagging
of their taila, which seemed to express that they
fairly "gave it up."
The wier had been built at the foot of a consid-
erable pool, which was Htorally covered with the
stupefied iishes. There were many varieties of
them, and the Indians stationed at that point were
already engaged in picking out the largest and
host, tossing the others over the wier, to recover
their senses at their leisure, in the clear water be-
low. As soon as the fish were thrown ashore, they
were taken charge of by the women, who cleaned
them on the spot, and with wonderful dexterity.
They were afterward taken to the house, rubbed
with salt, and smoke-dried over fires, after the man-
ner which I have already described, as practiced by
the Sambos at Pearl Cay Lagoon.
It would naturally he supposed that a decoction
so powerful aa to affect the water of a large stream,
would also damage the fish, and unfit them for
food. But such is not the case. The effect seems
HosleflbyGoOgk'
GROWING FANCIES. 303
to he precisely that of temporary intoxication, and
the fleh, if left in the water, would soon recover
from its influence.
Time passed pleasantly among the hospitahle
Foyers, and I was treated with such ceremonious
deference and respect, that I began to thinli that a
far worse fortune might befall me, than that of be-
coming a member of this peaceful and prosperous
community, on the banks of the G-uallambre, In
fact, I finally detected myself speculating upon the
possibility of promoting one of the dark Naiads,
whom I every morning watched sporting in the
river, to the occupancy of the vacant crickery in
my apartment. And then the fact that there were
two crickeries — was not that intended as a delicate
suggestion on the part of the Poyers, whose ideas
of hospitahty might be less circumscribed than my
own ? The thought that they might imagine me
dull of apprehension, and slow to improve upon a
hint, grew upon me with every new and nearer con-
templation of the Naiads, and I began seriously to
think of submitting a formal proposition on the
subject, to the monemco. But men's fates often
hinge upon trifling circumstances, and had I not
detected a deepening shadow of anxiety on the face
of Antonio, I might have become a patriarch in
Poyeidom 1 Who knows ?
Early after our arrival at the Poyer viltage, I was
surprised to observe Antonio in close consultation
with the old men, in the nightly monexico. They
seemed to be deeply interested in his communica-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
304 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
tions, and I imagined that they became daily more
thoughtful. But now, whatever purpose Antonio
might have had in view, it appeared to have heen
accomphshed.
So, one evening, I called him aside, and an-
nounced that I was ready to depart. Ho grasped
ray hand, pressed it to his heart, and eaid, in a tone
of emotion^" The voice of the tiger is loud in the
mountain, and the sons of the Holy Men are wait-
ing by the lake of the Itaaes 1"
I comprehended the latent meaning of these
poetical words, for I had already seen enough of
Antonio to discover that his absence from Yucatan
was in some way connected with a concerted move-
ment of the aborigines, and that now some crisis
was approaching which drew him irresistibly to-
ward his native land. Resolved not to be instru-
mental in delaying him for an hour unnecessarily,
and half repenting that I had detained him bo
long— for his attachment and gratitude were too
real to permit him to abandon me in the wilder-
ness — I at once communicated my intention of
leaving to the old men. They took it under serious
dehberation, which resulted in their dispatching
some men before daybreak, on the following morn-
ing, to prepare a canoe for our descent of the
Patuca. The canoes, I found, were not kept on the
Guallambre, for two reasons : first, that its course is
circuitous, and second, and principally, because it
runs through the settlements of the Spaniards of
Olancho, with whom the Indians avoid all relations
HosleflbyGoOgk'
DEPARTURE FOE THE COAST. 305
■which are not absolutely necessary. Their boats
were therefore kept half a day's journey distant, be-
yond a chain of high hUls, on a large tributary of
the Patuca, called Amacwaes.
I verily believe I would have been a welcome
guest among my Poyer friends, so long as I might
have chosen to remain ; yet they did not luge me to
stay, but hastened to help me off, as if my intima-
tions were to be regarded aa commands.
During the day a large quantity of provisions
were dispatched to the boat, and at night the
monexico selected two men, and my old companion
the Poyer boy, to accompany us to the coast. We
took our departure early in the momii^, while it was
yet dark, without creating the slightest disturbance
in the establishment. Only the old men, who had
come out to meet us two weeks before, now went
ahead with large brands of fire, to light the way ;
but, when the day broke, they again touched their
foreheads to my knee, and returned, leaving us to
prosecute our journey alone.
We reached ths Amacwass in the afternoon, and
found a boat, twice as large as the canoe in which
we had navigated the lagoons, all prepared for in-
stant departure. A space near the middle was cov-
ered with a thatch of palm branches, to protect me
from the sun, and altogether it promised a degree
of comfort and convenience to which I had been a
stranger, in my previous voyagings.
We embarked at once, and dropped rapidly down
with the current, the Indians only using their pad-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
sou THE M08QUIT0 SHORE.
dies to direct the boat, and keep it clear of the
rocks which obstructed the channel. The water
was wonderfully clear, every where revealing the
bottom with the greatest distinctness. The banks
were covered with a heavy forest, in which the eye
was often arrested by the stately forms of the ma-
hogany-tree, with its massive foKage, rising high
above the general level ; or hy the still taUer and
more graceful plumes of the pahnetto-royal. Vege-
tation seemed to have a more vigorous, but less re-
dundant life, than on the Mosquito Shore ; that is
to say, it assumed more compact and more decided
forms, occasioned, probably, by the comparative ab-
sence of jungle, not less than by peculiarities of soil.
There was something exhilarating in our rapid
course ; and the voice of the waters, here murmur-
ing over a pebbly bottom, and yonder breaking
hoarsely over the obstructing rocks, reminded me of
my distant New England home, and recalled the
happy hom-s which I had spent in the sole compan-
ionship of its merry mountain streams. It was,
after all, by the standard of my youthful experi-
ences, that I measured my present enjoyments ;
and it was rare indeed, even in my most cheerful
moods, that the comparison was favorable to the
latter. The senses blunted by years, and the mem-
ory crowded with events, fails to appreciate so keenly
or record so deeply, the experiences of middle life,
and pure happiness, after all, dwells chiefly in the
remembrance of the distant past.
As soon as the shadows of evening began to settle
HosleflbyGoOgk'
"the gateway of hell." B07
over the narrow valley of the Amacwaes, we halted,
and made our camp, maintaining throughout the
night a great fire, not less for its cheerful influences
than for protection against the fierce blaclt tigers, or
pumas, which abound on this flank of the moun-
tains. We heard their screams, now near, now
distant, to which the monkeys responded with
alarmed and anxious cries, eo like those of human
beings in distress, as more than once to startle me
from my slumbers. These caricatures on humanity
seemed to be more numerous here than further
down the coast, and we often saw large troops of
them in the overhanging trees, where they gravely
contemplated us as we drifted by. Occasionally
one, more adventurous than the rest, would slide
down a dependent limb or vine, scold at us vehe-
mently for a moment, and then scramble back again
hurriedly, as if alarmed at his own audacity.
On the second day the current of the Amacwaes
became more gentle, and just before night we shot
out of its waters into the large and comparatively
majestic Patuca. Our course down this stream was
not so rapid. In places the current was so slight
that it became necessary to use our paddles ; while
elsewhere the greatest caution was requisite to guide
our boat safely over the numerous cliiflones or rapids
by which it was interrupted. But these, though
difficult, and in some instances dangerous, sunk into
insignificance 'when compared with what is called
JEJl Portal del Infiemo, or the " Gateway of Hell."
My Poyer boy had several times alluded to it, as
HosleflbyGoOgk'
808 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
infinitely more to be dreaded than any of the passes
which we had yet encountered, and as one which
would he likely to excite my alarm.
We reached it on the day after we had entered
the Patuca, As we advanced, the hills began to
approach each other, and high rocks shut in the
river upon both sides. Huge detached masses also
rose in the middle of the stream, around which the
water whirled and eddied in deep, dark gulfs, suck-
ing down the frayed and shattered trunks of trees,
from which the branches had long before been torn
by rude contact with the rocks, only to reject them
again from their depths, far below. The velocity
of our boat increased, and I became apprehensive in
view of the rushing current and rocky shores ; nor
was the feeling diminished, when the men com-
menced to lash the various articles contained in the
boat by thongs to its sides, since that precaution
implied a possibility of our being overset. Antonio
urged me to strip, which I did, in preparation for the
worst contingency. Meanwhile the stream narrowed
more and more, and the rocks towered higher and
higher above our heads. The water no longer dashed
and chafed against the shores, but, dark and glassy,
shot through the narrow gorge with a low hissing
sound, more fearful than its previous turbulence, I
involuntarily held my breath, grasping firmly the
sides of the boat, and watching anxiously the dark
forms of the Indians, as, silently, and with impas-
sible features, they guided the frail slab upon which
om- lives depended. On, on we swept, between
HosleflbyGoOgk'
"POKTAL DEL INFIEBNO," 309
cliffs 80 lofty and beetling ai to shut out the sun,
and involve us in twilight obscunty I looked up,
and, at a dizzy height,
could only trace a nai
row strip of sky, like the
cleft in the roof of some
deep cavern. A shuddei
ran through ever^ hmb
and I could well undei
stand why this terrible
paBs had been namel
the Mouth cf Hell i
He mu&t have been a
bold min who ventured
first withm its homd
]1W8 1
I diew 1 long breath |
oi lehef when the chabm I
began to widen and the
cunent to diminish in
violence But it w as
probibly then thit
weie m the greitest 1
ger for the bed of t!
stream was full of angu-
lar rocks which had been
swept out from the canon, to be heaped up here in
wild disorder, A misdirected stroke of a single
paddle would have thrown our frail boat upon
them, and dashed it into a thousand pieces.
Before night, however, wo Lad entirely passed
HosleflbyGoOgk'
310 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
the rapids, and were drifting quietly over the
smooth, deep reaches of the river — the bubbles on
its surface, and the flecks of white foam clinging to
its banlis, alone indicating the commotion which
raged above.
There are many legends connected with the
" Portal del Infiemo." Within it the Indians im-
agine there dwells a powerful spirit, who is some-
times seen darting through its gloomiest recess, in
the form of a large bird. That night, each of the
Poyera poured a portion of his allowance of chicha
in the stream, as a thank-offering to the spirit of
the river. This, and the offerings made to lire,
were the only religious rites which I witnessed
while in their country ; but it is not thence to bo
inferred that they are without religious forms, for
it is precisely these that they are most careful to
conceal from the observation of the stranger.
As we proceeded down the river, and entered the
alluvions of the coast, both the stream and its
banks- underwent an entire change. The latter be-
came comparatively low, and frequently, for long
distances, were wholly covered with feathery palms,
unrelieved by any other varieties of trees. Snags
a,nd stranded logs obstructed the channel, and sand-
bars appeared here and there, upon which the hid-
eous alligators stretched themselves in the sun, in
conscious security. Occasionally, we observed
swells or ridges of savannah land, like those on the
Mosquito Shore, supporting pines and acacias.
But the general character of the country was that
HosleflbyGoOgk'
KIO PATUCA. 311
of a broad alluvion, in places so low aa to he over-
flowed during floods— ricJi in soil, and adapted to
the cnltivation of all the tropical staples:
On the seventh day from the Poyer village, we
reached a point where the river divides, forming a
delta, the principal channel leading off to the sea
direct, and the other conducting to a large lagoon,
called Brus by the Spaniards, where the Caribs of
the coast have thoir establishments. "We took the
latter, and the Indiana plied their paddles with in-
creased energy, as if ansioue to bring our tedious
voyage to a close.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
LTHOUGH we had previously
! moored our boat with the ap-
!' proach of darkness, yet this night
the Indians kept on their course.
The river was now wide and still, and the banks
low and tropical. With the fading light of day,
the sea-breeze set in, fresh and pungent, from the
ocean. Fire-flies sparkled like stars along the
shore, and only the night-hawk, swooping down
after its prey, startled the ear of night with its
mailing pinions.
The night adranced, and the steady dip of the
paddles soothed me into a slumber, from which I
was only roused by the noise of drums and the
sound of revelry. I leaped up suddenly, with some
vague recollections of the orgies at Sandy Bay,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
ARBIVAL AT BRUS LAGOON. 313
which, however, were soon dispelled, and I found
that we had already passed Brus Lagoon, and were
now close to ita northern shore, where the Carib
town is situated. There were many lights and
fires, and shouts and laughter rang out from the
various groups which were gathered around them,
I perceived at once that some kind of a festival
was going on, and had some hesitation in ventur-
ing on shore. But I was reassured by the conduct
of the Indians, who paddled the boat up to the
beach, with the utmost confidence. Before it
touched the sand, however, we were hailed by some
one on the shore, in a language which I did not un-
derstand. A moment after, the hail was repeated
in another dialect, to which my Poyer boy re-
plied, with some Idnd of explanation. " Advance,
friend t" was the prompt response of the chal-
lenger, who stepped into the water, and lent a
hand to drag up the canoe.
I scrambled forwaixl, and leaped ashore, when I
was immediately addressed by the same voice which
had hailed us, with, " Very welcome to Brus !"
My first impression was, that I had fallen in with
Europeans, but I soon saw that my new friend was
a pure Indian. He was dressed in white panta-
loons and jacket, and wore a sash around his waist,
and, altogether, looked like a good fellow. He at
once invited me to his house, explaining, ae we
went along, that the village was in the midst of a
festival, held annually, on the occasion of the re-
turn of the mahogany-cuttere from the various
HosleflbyGoOgk'
314 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
works, both on this coaet and in the vicinity of Be-
lize. The next day, he said, they expected a large
re enforcement of their numbers, and that then the
festivities would be at their height.
Meantime, we had reached the house of our new
friendj whose impromptu hospitality I made no
hesitation in accepting. It was empty ; for all
hands were occupied with the festival. Our host
stirred up the embers of a fire, which were smoul-
dering beneath a little roof in front of the hut,
and hastened away to call his family.
While I awaited his return, I smiled to think
what a free and easy way I had contracted since
leaving Jamaica, of making myself at home under
all circumstances, and with all sorts of people. No
letters of introduction, given with hesitation, and
received with doubt. And then, the happy excite-
ment of an oven chance whether one's welcome may
come in the form of a buUet or a breatfast ! These
things will do to tell my friend Sly, I soliloquized,
and fell into a revery, which was only broken by the
return of my host, accompanied by one of his wives
— a very pretty and weil-dressed Carib woman, her
hair neatly braided on the top of her head, and stuck
fuU of flowers. Although it was now past mid-
night, she insisted on preparing something for us to
eat, and then returned to participate in the dances
and rejoicings which were going on in the centre of
the village.
I would have accompanied my host there also,
had it not been for an incident which, for that night
HosleflbyGoOgk'
AN ABBUPT PARTING. 315
at least, banished my idle curiosity. While occu-
pied in arranging my personal baggage in our new
quarters, I had observed my Poyer companion
standing apart, and regarding me with an earnest
and thoughtful expression. I was several times on
the point of speaking to him, and as often bad my
attention diverted by other circumstances. Finally,
however, I turned to seek him, but he was gone, I
inquii'ed of Antonio what had become of Mm, but
he could give me no information ; and, a little con-
cerned himself, he started for the scene of the rev-
elry, under the impression that he might have been
attracted thither. He returned with a hasty step,
and reported that neither the Poyer or his compan-
ions were to be found. We hurried to the shore,
where we had left the boat, but that also was gone.
The reader may, perhaps, smile when I say that I
strained my eyes to penetrate the darkness, if only
to catch one glimpse of my Poyer boy ; and that I
wept when I turned back to the village. And
when, on the following day, as I unrolled my scanty
wardrobe, a section of bamboo-cane, heavy with
gold-dust, rolled upon the floor, I felt not only
that I had lost a friend, but that beneath the
swarthy breast of that untutored Indian boy there
beat a heart capable of the most delicate generos-
ity. Be sure, my faithful friend, far away in your
mountain home, that your present shall never be
dishonored I Washed from the virginal sands, and
vfiought into the symbol of our holy faith, it rests
above a heart as constant as thine own ; and, in-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
316 THE MOSQUITO 8H0BE.
scribed witli the single word " Fidelity," it sliall
descend to my children, as an evidence that Faith
and Eriendship are hoavenly flowers, perennial in
every clime !
The O^ribs (who pronounce their own name Ca-
ribees), those Dyaeks of the Antilles, had always
been associated in my mind with every thing that
was savage in character and habits, and I was as-
tonished to find that they had really considerable
pretensions to civilization. It should be observed,
however, that they are here an intruded people, and
that, iirst and last, they have had a large associa-
tion with the ■whites. They now occupy the coast
from the neighborhood of the port of Truxillo to
Carataska Lagoon, whence they have gradually ex-
pelled the Sambos or Mosquitos. Their original
seat was San Vincent, one of what are caDed the
Leeward Islands, whence they were deported in a
body, by the English, in 1798, and landed upon the
then unoccupied island of Eoatan, in the Bay of
Honduras. Their position there was an unaatisfac-
tory one, and they eagerly accepted the invitation
of the Spanish authorities to remove to the main-
land.
Positions were assigned them in the vicinity of
Truxillo, whence they have spread rapidly to the
eastward. All along the coast, generally near the
mouths of the various rivers with which it is
fringed, they have their establishments or towns.
These are never large, but always neat, and well
supplied with provisions, especially vegetables,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
OABIB CHARACTER. 317
which are cultivated with great care, and of the
highest perfection. They grow rice, cassava, sugar-
cane, a little cotton, plantains, squashes, oranges,
mangoes, and every yariety of indigenous fruits,
hesides an abundance of hogs, ducks, turkeys, and
fowls, of all of which they export considerable
quantities to Trusillo, and even to Belize, a dis-
tance of several hundred miles.
The physical differences which existed among
them at San Vincent are stiU marked. Most are
pure Indians, not large, but muscular, with a mddy
skin, and long, straight hair. These were called
the Eed or Yellow Caribs. Another portion are
very dark, with curly hair, and betraying unmistak-
ably a large infusion of negro blood, and are called
the Black Caribs. They are taller than the Eed
Caribs, and well-proportioned. They contrast with
the latter, also, in respect of character, being more
vehement and mercurial. The pure Caribs are con-
stant, industrious, quiet, and orderly, Tliey all
profess the Catholic rehgion, although observing
very few of its rites, except during their visits to
the Spanish towns, where all their children are scru-
pulously taken to be baptized.
I was agreeably astonished when I awoke on the
morning after our arrival at Brus, to find a cup of
coffee, well served in a china cup, awaiting my at-
tentions. And when I got up, I was stUl further
surprised to observe a table spread with a snow-
white cloth, in the principal apartment of the
house, where my host welcomed me, with a genuine
HosleflbyGoOgk'
318 THE MOSQUITO SHORB,
"good morning." I expressed my surprise at his
accLuaintance with the English, which seemed to
flatter him, and he ran through the same salutation
in Spanish, Creole-French, Carib, and MoscLuito.
Whereupon I told him he was a " perambidating
polyglot," which he did n't understand, although
he affected to laugh at the remark.
I had now an opportunity to mate my observa-
tions on the village of Bras and its people. The
town is situated on a narrow, sandy tongue of land,
lying between the sea and the lagoon. This etrip
of land supports a magnificent forest of cocoa-pahnB,
relieved only by a few trees of gigantic size and
dense foliage, which, I suppose, must be akin to
the banyan-tree of India, inasmuch as they send
down numerous stems or trunks, which take root
in the ground, and support the widely-spreading
branches. The establishment of my host, includ-
ing his house and the huts of his various wives,
were all built beneath a single tree, which had
thirty-five distinct trunks, besides the central or pa-
rent stem, A belt of miscellaneous trees is also
left seaward, to break the force of the north wind,
which would otherwise be sure to destroy the palms.
But the underbrush had all been carefully removed,
so that both the sea and the lagoon were visible
from all parts of the village. The design of their
removal was the excellent one of affording a free
circulation of air ; a piece of sanitary wisdom
which was supported by the additional precaution
of building the huts open only to the sea-breeze.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
and closed against the miasmatic winds wliicli blow
occaeionaliy from the land side,
Nothing could be more beautiful than the palm-
grove, with its graceful natural columns and ever-
green arches, beneath which rose the picturesque
huts of the vilJage. These were all well-built,
walled, floored, and partitioned, with cabbage-palm
boards, and roofed with the branches of the same
tree. Episodically, I may repeat what has probably
often been observed before, that the palm, in its
varieties, ia a marvel of economic usefulness to
dwellers under the tropics. Not only does it present
him with forms of enchanting beauty, but it affords
him food, drink, and shelter. One variety yields
him excellent substitutes for bread and yeast ; an-
other sugar and wine ; a third oil and vinegar ; a
fourth milk and wax ; a fifth resin and fruit ; a
sixth medicines and utensils ; a seventh weapons,
cordage, hats, and clothing ; and an eighth habita-
tions and furniture 1
The plantations of the village, except a few clus-
ters of banana-trees and sugar-canes, on the edge
of the lagoon, were situated on the islands of the
latter, or on its southern shore. Those on the
islands were most luxuriant, for the principal reason
that they are fully protected from the wild beasts,
which occasionally commit extensive depredations
on the maize, rice, and cassava fields. One of the
islands nearest the village, on which my hostesses
had then' plantations, I visited frequently during my
stay. It was a delicious spot, covered with Ji most
HosleflbyGoOgk'
320 THE MOSQUITO SHOEE.
luxuriant growth of ftuits and vegetatlee. I could
well understand why it had been selected by the
English for their settlement, when they sought to
estahhsh themselves on the coast, during the great
war with Spain. A par tially-ohht crated trench and
breast-work, a few iron guns half-buried in the soil,
at the most elevated portion of the island, and one
or two large iron cauldrons, probably designed to be
used in sugar-works, were now the only traces of
their ancient establishments.
The lagoon abounds in fish and water-fow], and
there are some savannahs, at a considerable distance
up the Patuca, and on other streams flowing into
the lagoon, which are thronged with deer. But it
would seem that these are only occasionally hunted
by the Caribe, and then chiefly for their skins, of
which large numbers are exported.
As I have said, we arrived in Brus during the
annual carnival, which follows on the return of
those members of the community who have been
absent in the mahogany-works. It is in these
works that the able-bodied Caribs find their princi-
pal employment. They hire for from ten to twelve
dollars per month, and rations, receiving one half of
their pay in goods, and the other half in money.
As a consequence, they have among them a great
variety of articles of European manufacture, selected
with a most fantastic taste. A Carib dandy de-
lights in a closely-fitting pantaloons, supported
by a scarlet sash, a jaunty hat, encircled by a broad
band of gold lace, a ]}rofuse neck-cloth, and a sword.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
or purple umbrella. It is in some such garb that
he returns from the mahogany-works, to dehght the
eyes and affect the sensibiiities of the Carib girls ;
nor does he fail to stuff his pockets with gay heads,
and ear-rings and bracelets of hoop-like dimensions,
richly gilt and glowing with colored glass, where-
with to follow up any favorable impression which
may he produced by his own resplendent person.
He then affects to have forgotten his Carib tongue,
and finds himself constantly running into more fa-
miliar English, after the immemorial practice of
great and finished travelers. He scorns the native
chicha for the first day, but overcomes his prejudice,
and gets glorious upon it the next. In fact, lie
enacts an unconscious satire upon the follies of a
class, whose vanity would never enable them to dis-
cover the remotest possible parallelism between
themselves and the Caribs of Honduras !
During the day several lai^e boats arrived at
Brus from Limas and Homan, both of which are
mahogany stations. They aU carried the Honduras
flag at the topmast, and bore down on the shore
with their utmost speed, only striking their sails
when on the edge of the breakers, when the occupants
■would all leap overboard, and thus float their boats
to the shore. Here, under the shade of the trees,
all the inhabitants of the village were gathered.
They shouted and beat drums, and fired muskets,
by way of welcome to their friends, who responded
with the whole power of their' lungs. Here, too,
expectant wives, affectionate sisters, and anxious
HosleflbyGoOgk'
322 THE MOSQUITO SHORE,
mothere, spread out tables, loaded with food, fruits,
bottles of rum, and jars of cMcha, wherewith to re-
gale husband, brother, or son, on the instant of his
arrival. It was amusing to witness the rivalry of
the various wives of the same anxiously-expected
husband, in their efforts to outvie each other in the
arrangement of their respective tables, and the vari-
ety of eatables and drinkables which they supported.
They were all particularly ambitious in their display
of glass-ware, and some of them had a profusion of
gay, and, in some instances, costly decanters and
tumblers. One yellow dame, with her shoulders
loaded with heads and but half-concealed by a
silken scarf of brightest crimson, was complacent
and happy in the exclusive possession of a plated
wine-servor, which supported three dehcately-cut
bottles of as many different colors, and filled with
an equal variety of hquors.
Every body drank with eveiy body on the occasion
of every body's arrival, a process which, it may be
suspected, might, by frequent repetition, come to
develop a lai^o liberaHty of feeling. At noon, it
exhibited itself in a profuse and energetic shaking
of hands, and toward night in embraces more pro-
longed and unctious than pleasant or endurable to
one receiving his initiation in the practice. 80 I
was fain to retire early from the shore, although
enjoying highly the excitement, in which I could not
fail to have that kind of sympathy which every
manifestation of genuine feeling is sure to inspire.
Even Antonio, whose impassible brow had latterly
HosleflbyGoOgk'
SINGULAE PKACTICES, 323
become aimouB and thoughtful, partook of tho gen-
eral exhilaration, and wore a amiling face.
I was treated with great consideration by the
entire population, who all seemed alike coneequeii-
tial and happy, when an opportunity was afforded
to them of shaking me hy the hand, and incLuiring,
" How do you do ?"
As I have intimated, the Caribs, like the Mos-
c[Tiitos, practice polygamy ; but the wives have each
a distinct establishment, and recLuire a fair and
equal participation in all of the favors of their hus-
band. If he make one a present, he is obliged to
honor aU the others in hko manner ; and they are
aU ec[ually ready to make common cause against
him, in case of infidelity, or too wide an exhibition
of gallantry. The division of duties and responsi-
bilities 18 rather extraordinary. When a Carib
takes a wife, he is obliged to build her a house and
clear her a plantation. But, this done, she must
thenceforth take care of herself and her offspring ;
and if she desire the assistance of her husband in
planting, she is obliged to pay him, at' the rate of
two dollars per week, for his services. And al-
though the husband generally accompanies his
wives in their trading excursions to Truxillo and
elsewhere, he carries no loads, and takes no part in
the barter. As a consecLuence, nearly all the labor
of the villages is performed by the women ; the
men thinking it rather beneath them, and far from
manly, to engage in other occupation than mahog-
any-cutting and the Wilding of boats, in which art
HosleflbyGoOgk'
32i THE MOSQUIl'O SHORE.
they are very expert, using the axe, saw, and adue
with great skill. Altogether, the Cariba are kind,
industrious, provident, honest, and faithful, and
muet ultimately constitute one of the most import-
ant aids to the development of the country. They
are brave, and some companies, which have heen in
the service of the government, have distinguished
themselves in the field, not less for their subordina-
tion than for their valor and powers of endurance.
They are usually temperate, and it is rare to see
one of them drunk, except during the continuance
of some festival, of which they have several in the
course of the year.
I remained hut a few days at Erus, and availed
myself of the departure of a large cresr, or Oarib
boat, bound for Eoatan, to take passage for that
island. I could not prevail upon my host to accept
any thing in return for his hospitaHty, except " El
Moro," for whom one of his children had conceived
a strong liking, which the bird was far from recip-
rocating. Mischievous Moro ! The last I saw of
him was while waddling stealthily across the floor,
to get a bite at the toes of his admirer !
Our course from Brus lay, first, to the island of
Gunaja, distinguished historically as the one whence
Columbus first descried the mainland of America.
Our sole purpose there was to carry a demijohn of
brandy to a solitary Scotchman, living upon one
of the cays which surround it, to whom it had
heen sent by some friend in Belize. It had been
intrusted to the Carib owner of the boat, who went
HosleflbyGoOgk'
APPROACH TO GUANAJA. 325
thus out of his way to fuIfiU his commiasion, with-
out recompense or the hope of reward. One would,
suppose that a demijohu of brandy was a danger-
ous article to iutrust to the exclusive custody of
Indians ; but those who know the Garibs best have
most faith in their integrity.
The Bay of Honduras is remarkable for its gen-
eral placidity, and the extreme purity of its waters.
It h^B a laige numbei of coral ciys and leefs on its
western border, which almost encux,le the penin-
•^ula of Yucatan, as with a belt The line ishnds
of Boat in and Gfuana]a are belted m hke manner,
but theie are several openings in the locky bariitia
which smTound them, through which ^t'lsela miy
enter the piotected waters withm
The wind was hesh ind f\n, the sly sciene, and
the hea was biigkt and spaikhng m the sunlight
Wo swept on swiftly and gayly, the pme-clad
mountains of Gruanaia nsmg slowlj ind smilmgly
above the horizon By-and-by the palm-tices on
the Burroundms; cays became visible, then plumes
appealing to spring trum the cleir waters, and to
rise and fill with the motion of oui boat As wc
HosleflbyGoOgk'
approached nearer to them, we could make out the
cays themeelvea, supporting masses of emerald ver-
dure, within a silvery ring of sand. Between them
and the island, with its wealth of forest, the sea
was of the loveUest blue, and placid as a " painted
ocean." But, before we reached their tairy-like
shores, the wind died away, and our sail drooped
from the mast. We were partly under the lee of
the land, and the surface of the sea soon became
And as we drifted on, our boat yielding to the gen-
tle swells, I amused myself in looking over the
side, and contemplating the forms of marine life
which the transparent water revealed to our gaze.
The bottom was distinctly visible, studded with
the wonderful products of the coral polypus, here
spreading out like fans, there taking the forma of
flattened globes radiating with spines, and yonder
shooting up in branching, antler-liko stems. Dark
patches of jelly-Hke sponge, the white shells of
myriads of conchs, and occasionally a large flsh,
whose pulsating gills alone gave sign of life — all
these contributed to lend variety and interest to
those glimpses of the bottom of the sea. It was to
me a new revelation of Nature, and as I gazed, and
gazed, the musical song of the " dainty Ariel "
rang its bell-like cadences in my ears ;
HosleflbyGoOgk'
MOONLIGHT MUSINGS, dZ7
Those are pearls tfiat were hia eyes :
Nothing of Mm that doth fade,
But doth suffer a sea^ange
Inl^ something lich and strange I"
Our men stretched themselves in the hottom of
the boat, waiting, as they said, for the evening
breeze. But the evening breeze came not, and they
were finally obliged to paddle the boat to the near-
est cay— a coral gem indeed, with its clustering
palms, drooping gracefully over the sea, as if, Nar-
cissus-like, contemplating their own beauty in its
mirror-liie surface.
The moon was in her first ijuarter, and as she
rose above the placid sea, revealing the island in its
isolation and beauty, jeweled round with cays, I
seated myself apart, on the sand of the shore, and
drank in the beauty of the scene. Gradually my
thoughts recurred to the past, and I could hardly
realize that but little more than five months had
elapsed since I had held an unwitting conference
with the demon, in my little studio in White-street.
And yet what an age of excitement and adventure
had been crowded in that brief space ! I felt that
I had entered upon a new world of ideas and im-
pressions, and wondered to think that I had Kved
so long immured in the dull, unsympathizing heart
of the crowded city. It was with a pang of regret
that I now found myself drifting upon civihzation
again. A few days would bring me to Behze,
where I knew Antonio would leave me, to return to
the fastnesses of his people. Where then should I go ?
Hosted byGoOgle
328 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
These reflections saddened me, and tlie unwilling
conviction was forced upon my mind that I must
soon he roused from my long, delicious dream, per-
haps never again to court its enchantments with
success. I gazed upon the moonht waters, and lis-
tened to the gentle chime of the waves upon the
sand, and almost regretted that 1 had been admit-
ted within the grand arcanum of Nature, to adore
her unvailcd beauties, since they wore now to be
shut out from me forever, hy the restraints, the un-
meaning forms, the follies and vices of artificial
life ! A heavy weight of melancholy settled on my
heart, and I bowed my head on my knees, and^
shall I own it ?- — wept '.
It was then that Antonio approached me, silent-
ly as when he stole to my side on the fearful night
of our shipwreck, and quietly laid his hand on my
shoulder, I knew who it was, but I said nothing,
for I hesitated to betray my emotion.
He respected my silence, and waited untU my
momentary weakness had passed away, when I
raised my head, and met his fuU and earnest gaze.
His face again glowed with that mysterious intelli-
gence which I had remarked on several previous oc-
s ; but now his lips wore unsealed, and he
" This is a good place, my brother, to tell you
the secret of my heart ; for on that dark island
slumber the bones of our fathers. It was there
that my powerful ancestor, Baalam Votan, led the
white-robed holy men, when they fled from the rc-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
BAALAM VOTAN. 829
gions of the rising sim. It was there that our peo-
ple raised a temple to the Imperial Tiger, whose
descendant I am — for am I not Baalam,* and is not
this the Heart of the People ?" —
This exclamation was made with energy, and, for
a moment, he was silent, and gazed earnestly upon
his cherished talisman.
When he resumed, it was in a lesa exalted strain.
He told me of the ancient greatness of his people,
when the race of Baalam Votan reigned over the
Peninsula of Yucatan, and sent the missionaries of
their religion to redeem the savage nations which
surrounded them, even to the country of the Huas-
tecas, on the river of Panuco. It was then, he
said, that the Lord of Life smiled on the earth ;
then the eai^ of maize were many times larger than
now, the trees were loaded with unfailing supplies
of fruit, and hloomed with perennial flowers ; the
cotton grew of many colors ; and, although men
died, their spirits walked the earth, and held famil-
iar converse with the children of the Itzacs.
Never have I heard a voice more intense and fer-
vid than that of the Indian boy, as he described the
traditionary golden age of his people. I listened
with hreathless interest, and thought it was thus
that the prophets of old must have spoken, when
* Scudam, in tbe langu^e of Tuoaton, aigiiifiea T^er, and Valan
is understood to denote ffeari. The Maja tradition is, that Baakm
Votan, the Tiger-Heart, led the lathers of the Mayas to Tuoatan,
from a distant oountry. He ia conspieuously figiireft In the mined
temples around the Lake of Itza^ as well as at Chichen and Pa-
HosieflbyGoOgk'
830 THE MOSQUITO eilORE.
the people deemed them inspireil of heiven But
■when he came to recount the wrongs of hi'^ nation,
and the destruction cf the kingdom ot hifl fathers,
I could scarcely helieve that the hearse von,e and
words but half-articulited fiom excess tt passion
proceeded from the same lips It was a tearful
sight to witness the convulsive energy of that In
dian boy, whose knotted musclLs ind the veins
swelling almost to bursting on his forehead, half-in-
duced me to fear that he had been stricken with
But soon he became calm again, and told me
how the slumbering spirit of his people had become
roused, and how wide-spread and terrible was the
revenge which they were meditating upon their op-
pressors. A few years before, his father had gath-
ered the descendants of the ancient Caziques amid
the ruins at Ohichen-Itza, and there they had
sworn, by the Heart of Baalam Votan, to restore the
rule of the Holy Men, and expel the Spaniards from
the Peninsula, It was then, that the sacred relic
which he wore on his breast had been dug up from
the hiding-place where it had lain for centuries, to
lend the sanctity and power of the traditionary
Votan to his chosen successor. But the movement
had been premature ; and although, the excited, but
poorly-armed Indians performed prodigies of valor,
and carried their victories to the very walls of Me-
lida, yet there they received a sudden, and, as it
seemed, a iinal check, in the death of Chichen-Pat,
their cherished leader. He fell at the head nf his
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE GREAT CONSPIRACY. 331
followere, who rescued only the talisman of Votan,
called the " Heart of the People," and then fled in
dismay to their fastnesses in the wilderness. But
the spirit which had heen evoked was not subdued.
Another convocation was held, and the only son of
thoir late leader was invested with the symbol of
authority. A scheme of insurrection was devised,"
which was intended to include, not only the Indians
of Yucatan and of Central America, but even those
of Mexico and Peru, in one grand and terrible up-
rising against the Spanish dominion.
To this end messengers were sent in every direc-,
tion ; and the proud cavalier at Bogota or Mexico,
spurring his horse, with arrogant mien, past the
strange Indian, who shrank aside at his approach, or
stood with head uncovered in his presence, little
thought what torrents of hate were dammed up in
that swarthy breast, or what wide-laid schemes of
vengeance were revolving beneath that impassi-
ble brow 1 The emissaries toiled through wUder-
nesses and deep marshes, over high mountains and
dangerous rivers, enduring hunger and fatigue, and
the extremes ot heat and cold, to fuMU their re-
spective missions Even the daughters of the Holy
Men like the seeress of the river Boeay, ventured
afar from the homes of their people, and among dis-
tant and alien tribes, became the propagandists of
the meditated Revenge !
The night had worn on, and the crescent moon
rested on the ver^^e of the horizon. I had heard the
HosleflbyGoOgk'
3m TilE MOsyUiTO SIIOKK.
gixjat secret of tho Indian boy ; his bitter recital of
past wrongs and faiiuiog, and Ins hopes of futdra
triumph. I now knew that tho angel of hlood was
indeed abroad, and that, m hia own figurative lan-
guage, "Tho voice of tho 'I'lj-ci wm loud in the
mouiiljiin !"
I WHS silent and thoiighil'ul whpii ho had fin-
ished ; hilt when, after a long pause, he asked,
" Will my brother go with mo to the lyke of the
Tfzaes ?" r gnispcd life hand and swore, by a name
holier tiian that of A'otan, to justify a friendship so
nnwavering by a faith as boujidlcss as hia own.
And when I left tlio outj-mts of civilization, and
plunged into the untracked wilderness, with no
other friend or guide, never did a suRpicion or a
doubt darken for an instant my confidence, or im-
pair my faith "' the loyal heart of Aktosio Ohui, —
once the mikl-eyed Indian boy, but now the dreaded
cliioftain and victorious leader of tho unrelenting
Itzaes of Yucatan !
HosleflbyGoOgk'
THE GREAT CONSPIEACY, 833
Time only can determine what will be the final re-
sult of the contest which is now waging upon the soil
of that heautiful, but already half-desolated penin-
sula. Almost every arrival hringa us the news of in-
creased holdness, and new successes on the part of
the Indians ; and, it now seems, as if the great
drama of the concLueat were to be closed by the de-
struction of the race of the conquerors ! Terribly
the frown darkens on the front of Nemesis !
" The voice of the Tiger is loud in the moun-
tain !"
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HosleflbyGoOgk'
APPENDIX,
HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
The general physical cliaracteristios, and the climate and
productions of the Mosquito Shore, tave probably been suffi-
ciently indicated in tbe foregoing rapid narrative. Never-
iheless, to supply any deficiencies which may exist in these
respects, as well as to illustrate the history of this coast, to
which recent political events have given some degree of in-
terest, I have here brought together a variety df facts derived
from ori^nal sources, or such as are not easily accessible to
the general reader.
The designation " Mosquito Shore" can only properly be
undeistood in a geographical sense, as applying to that por-
tion of the eastern coast of Central America lying between
Cape Gracias i Dios and Bluefields Lagoon, or between the
twelfth and fifteenth degrees of north latitude, a distance oi
about two hundred miles. The attempts which have been
made to apply this name to a greater extent of shore, have
had their origin in strictly political considerations.
This coast was discovered by Columbus, in his fourth voy-
age, in 1602. He sailed along its entire length, stopping at
HosleflbyGoOgk'
aSij THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
various points, to investigate the country, and ascertain the
character of its iniiabitajita. Ho gave it the name Ca/eiay,
and it was accurately characterized by one of his compan-
ions, Porras, as "««« tj^ra muy baja^ a very low land.
Columbus himself, in his letter to the Spanish sovereigns,
describes the inhabitants as fehers, and " as great sorcerers,
very terrible." His son, Fernando Columbus, is more expli-
cit. He says, they were " almost negroes in color, beataal,
going naked ; in all respects very rude, eating human flesh,
and devouring their fish raw, as they happened to catch
them." The language of the chroniclers warrant us in be-
heving that these descriptions applied only to the Indians of
the sea-coast, and that those of the interior, whose language
then was different, were a distinct people.
The great incentive to Spanish enterprise in America, and
which led to the rapid conquest and settlement of the conti-
nent, was the acquisition of the precious metals. But httie
of these was to be found on the Mosquito Shore, and, as a
consequence, the tide of Spanish adventure swept by, heed-
less of the miserable savages who sought a precarious sub-
dstence among its lagoons and forests. It is true, a grant of
the entire coast, from Cape Graciaa to the Gulf of Darien,
was made to Diego de Nicuessa, for purposes of colonization,
within ten years after its discovery, but the expedition which
he fitted out to carry it into effect, was wrecked at the mouth
of the Cape, or Wanks river, which, in consequence hore, for
many years, the name of Mio de loa Perdidos.
From that time forward, the attinfion of Spain was too
much absorbed with the other parts of her immense empire
in America, to enable her to devote much care to this com-
paratively unattractive shore. Her missionaries, inspired
with religious zeal, nevertiieless penetrat^'d among its people.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
and feeble attempts were made to found establialimciits at
Cape Gracias, and probably at other points on the coast.
But the resources of the country were too few to sustain the
latter, and the Indians themselves too debased and savage to
comprehend the instructions of the former.
The coast, therefore, remained in its prinutive condition,
until tte advent of the buccaneers in the sea of the Antilles,
whieh was about the middle of the seventeenth century. Its
intricate bays and unknown rivers, furnished admirable
places of refuge and concealment^ for the small and swift ves-
sels in which they roved the seas. They made permanent
staliona at Cape Gracias and Elnefields, from which they
darted out like hawks on the galleons that sailed from Nom-
bre de Dies and Carthagena, laden with the riches of Peru.
Indeed Bluefields, the present seat of Mosquito royally, de-
rives its name from Bleevelt, a noted Dutch pirate, who had
his rendezvous in the bay of the same name.
The establishment at Cape Gracias, however, seems to
have been not only the principal one on this coast, but In
the whole Oinblean ''ei It is mentioned m nearly every
chapter of the na Tatives wh h the j irates have left us, of
their wild and bl ody ad entu es Here they met to divide
their spoil and to de de upon ne v expeLti ns. The relar
tions which they ma nta ne 1 w fh the nat ves are Tvell de-
scribed by oil Jo Es^emel n^ i D tch j ^te who wrote
about 1670 —
"Te directed on oour o wa 1 Tr^cis i I ra for tliitlier
reaort many pirates who have friendly correspondence witii tlio lu-
diana there. Tlie ouatom is, that when any pirates arrive, every onu
has the Uberty to buy himself an Indian woman, at the price of it
Jtnife, an old ase, wood-bill or hatchet. By this contract the woman
is obliged to stay with lie pirate all the time he remans there. She
serves him, meanwliile, with victuals of all sovls that the toiintn- iil-
IS
HosleflbyGoOgk'
338 THE MOSQUITO 8H0EE.
fords. The pirate haa also literty to go and hunt and fish where he
pleases. Through this frequent conyerse with the piratea, the In-
dianB aometiines go to aea with them for whole yeara, eo that many
of them can apesk English." (Buccaneers of America, Lrmdon, VlOi,
p. 165.)
He also adds that they were extremely indolenit, " wander-
ing up and down, without knowing or caring so much as to
keep their bodies from the rain, except by a fow pahn-
leaves," with " no other clothes than, an apron tied around
their middle," and armed with spears "pointed with the
teetli of crocodiles," and living chiefly on bananas, wild fruits
and fish.
We have a later account of thena by De Lusaan, another
member of the fraternity of freebooters :
"The Cape has long been inhabited by muiiisfera [mnlattoB] and
negroes, both men and women, who have greatly multiplied Bines a
Spanish ship, bound from Guinea, freighted with their fathers, was
lost hero. Those who escaped from tiie wreck were conrteously re-
ceived by the Miyasiidcs [Spanish Mascos, English Mosqmlos] who Jive
hereabout. These Indians assigned their gueate a place to grub ap,
and intermixed witii them.
" The ancient Mausikks live ten or a dozen leagues to the wind-
ward, at a place called Savibey [Sandy Bay]. They are very sloth-
ful, and neither plant or sow but very little ; their wives performing
aU the labor. As for their clotijiog, it is neither larger or more
Bumptuotts than that of the mjilaskra of the Cape. There are but few
among them who have a fixed abode, most of them being vagabonds,
and wandering along the river side, with no other shelter than the
la/arien-Uaf [palm-leaf], which they manage so that when the wind
drives the rain on one side, they turn their leaf against it, behind
which they lie. When they are inchned to sleep, they dig a bole in
the sand, in which they put themsalvea," (De laissan's NuTraiive,
London, 1704, p. 111.)
The negroes wrecked from the Spanish
Hosted byGoOgle
HISTORICAL SKETCH. 339
L number \>y the cimanmes, or runaway slaves
of the Spaoish settiementa ia tte interior ; and, intermingling
with the IndiaJia, originated the mongrel race which now
predominates on the Mosquito Shore. Still later, when
the English planters from Jamaica attempted to establish
themselves on the coast, they brought their slaves with
tliem, who also eoHfiibuted to increase the negro element.
What are called Mosquito IndiMis, therefore, are a mixed
race, combining the blood of negroes, Indians, pirates, and
JamMca traders..
Many of the pirates were Englishmen, and all Lad rela-
tions more or less intimate with the early governors of
Jamaica, who often shared their profits, in return for such
indulgences as they were able to aiford. Indeed, it is al-
leged that they were often partners in the enterprises of the
buccaneers. But when the protracted wars with Spain,
which lavored this state of things, were brought to a close, it
became no longer prudent to connive at fi'eebootmg ; and, as
a kind of intelligence had sprung up with the Mosquito
Shore, they conceived the idea of obtaining possession of it^
on behalf of the British crown. Various plans to this end,
drawn up by various individuals, were at this period pre-
sented to the royal government, and by them, it would seem,
referred to the governors of Jamaica,
But the governors of that island had already taken the in-
itiative. As early as 1687 one of the Mosquito chiefs bad
been taken to Jamaica, for the purpose of having him place
biscountryunderthe protection of England. Sir Hans Sloans
has left an account of how, having escaped irom his keepers,
"he pulled oft' the European clothes his friends had put on,
and climbed to the top of a tree !"
It seems, nevertheless, tiiat he received " a cocked hat, and
HosleflbyGoOgk'
840 THE MOaQUITO BHORB.
a ridiculous piece of writing," which, according to i
was a commi^on as king, " given hy his Graca, the Duke of
Alhemarie, under the seal of the island 1"
It was not, however, until l'?40, that an attempt was
made to obtain a cession of the co^t, from the extraordinary
monarcli thus created by the Duke of Alfaoinarlo. In that
year Governor Trelawney wrot« to the Duke of Kewoastle,
suggesting the expediency of rousing the Mosquito Indiana
against the Spaniards, with whom the English were at war,
and purposing an absolute occupation of their country. lie
represented that there were about one hundred Englishmen
there, " mostly such as eould live nowhere else" who might
be brought t(^ther, reCnforced, and, by the help of the
Mosquitos, finally induce the other Indiana to revolt, " and
thus spread the insurrection from one part to another, till it
should become general over the Lidiea, and drive the Span-
iards entirely out"
In pursuance of this scheme, Governor Trelawney commis-
sioned one Robert Hodgson, to proceed to the Mosquito
Shore, fully provided with every thing necessary to enable
him to tamper with the Indians. The manaer in which he
executed his instructions is naively told by Hodgson himself,
in a letter addressed to the Governor. The following ei-
tracts are fix>m the ori^nal letter, now in the possession oi
Colonel Peter Force, of Washington.
Sahdt Bat, April 8th, 1140.
"Map it please Tour Bxcellenoy, —
"I arrived at St. Andrews on the 4th of March, and sailed for
Sandy Bay on the 8th, where I arrived on the 11th, but was pre-
vented ^}J a Norther from going aahore till the 13th.
" King Edward being informed of my arrival, sent me word that
lie would see me next day, which he did, attentlGd by several of his
captains. I read to him Tour Excellency's letter, and my own com-
HosieflbyGoOgk'
HISTORICAL SKETCH. 341
miasioa, and whan. I had esiplaiiiGd them hy an inteirrQlOT, I told
them my eirand, and recommended to them to seek ail opportimitJes
of cultiyating triendship and union with the neighboring Indian na-
tions, and oBpecially sach as were under anbjeotdon to tile Spaniards,
and of helping them to roeover their freedom. They approyed every
thing I said, and appointed the leth to meet tho Governor, John Brit-
on, and his eaptama at the same place, to licar what I had flirthor
" On the 16th they all eame, except Admiral Dilly and Colonel
Moi^sc, who were, like General Hobby and bia captains, at loo great
a distance to be sent for, but their presence not being material, I pro-
ceeded to explain to them iliat, as they had long acknowledged
themselves subjects of Great Britain, the .Governor of JamMca bad
Bent me to take possession of Iheir eountiy in His Majesty's name —
liton aeked if they had any thing to object. Tbey answered, they had
nothing to Say against il, but were very glad I had come ibc that pur-
pose; EO I immediately set up the standard, and reducmg what I had
said into articles, I asked them both jointly and separately, if they
approved, and would abide by them. They unanimously declared
they would. I had them tlien read over again, in aolcmn manner,
under the colors, and, at the end of every article fired a gun, and
concluded by cutting up a turl] and promiamg to defend their country,
and procure for them eh asaistanoo from England in my power.
" The formahty with which all this was done seems to have had a
good effect upon them,
"The articles I encloBe, and hope Tour Escelleocy wiE excuse so
much ceremony ; fiir, as I had no certain information whether the
country was ever taken possession of before, or ever daimed other-
wise than by sending them down commissions, I thought tie more
voluntary and dear tho cession was the better. * * « The king
is very young, I believe not twenty, and is not much observed | but
were be to be in Bngland or Jamaica a while, 'tis thought he VHJvid
make a liopefal monanh enough,
" On the 18ih tbe king, witii his captains, came of their own ac
cord to consult about a proper plan to attack [the Spaniai'da], bnC
hearing that Captain Jumper was expected from the other aide of the
Cape, and neither the Governor, Admiral Dilly, nor Colonel Morgan
HosleflbyGoOgk'
d42 THE MOBQUITO SHORE.
tteiiig present, I Oiought it brat to defer it till they were summoneij.
Tlie king bronght his motlier, and the captains their wives. I enter-
tained them aa uaasl, but tiiere always comes suob a Ijain thai I
sho'uid Tuwe hwl Siree m- Jtmr, instead of one pwicheon of rmit." « « «
Hodgson then goes on to describe the appearance of one
Andrew Stewart, a pirate, to whom the Indians had made a
promise of assistance, from which he endeavored to dissuade
them, in order to accompany him ; but tbe Indians finally
agreed to attack tlie river Cocelijo to oblige Stewart, and
San Juaa de Veragua to oblige Hodgson. He continues : —
* * * "They intosicate themselves with a liquor made of
honey, phie-apple, and cassava, and, if they avoid quarrels, which
often happen, they are sure to have fine promiscuous doings among
the ^rls. The old womea, I am told, have the liberty of chewing the
cassava, before it is put iu, that they may have a chance in the gen-
eral rape as vreR as the young ones.
"I fell into one of their drunten-bouts by accident yesterday,
when I found Admiral Dilly and Colonel Moi^an retailing my advice
to them io little efffect, for most of them were too drunk to mind it,
and so hideooely painted that I quickly left them to avoid being
daubed all over, which is the compliment tiiey usually pay visitoia
* * * "Theu- resentment of adultery has lost ila edge too much
among them, which I have no doubt they are oblio^d to us ibr, aa
also for the breach fp m m tl irbargai Thywll
loll in their hammo k til th y )m t tar 1 th t rt p
and go a turtUng in p t and if th y h t immedi in 93,
and their happens tlmybttogththyfm dgn
upon some Spanish Id t vra
"The country is flu d j d good tto I tt th J"
maica. ***Th Idis, thsidd tpparso
averse to govemm t I "flipj d, d th th th ar
tractable enough. Ilttkth btb
many aa the author f th p j t m k th m t
(Sib d) EH
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HISTORICAL SKETCH. 343
111 a subsequent letter, from Chiriqtii Lagoon, dated June
21, 1740, nodgeon givos a fiirther account of his expedi-
tion, and asks for some blank commi^iona for Mosquito
admirals and generals, and also implores ihs Governor to
send him out some men as a guard ; for, he saj^ " my life
is in more danger from these Indians than from the Span-
Previously to this mission of Hodgson, viz., on the 28th of
Ocfoher, the Spanish Embassador in London had made com-
plmnts that the incursions of the Zamhos and Indians of the
Mosquito Shore, on fie adjacent Spanish settlements, were
" at the instigation and under the protection of the English
of Jamaica, who have a commerce with them, and give them
in exchange for the captive Indiana whom they purchase for
slaves, firearms, powder, shot, and other goods, contrary to
the natural rights of those people."
The " cesaon" of the Mosqmto Shore, thus procured by
Hodgson, was followed up by occupation. Several Jamaica
planters establiahed themselves there, and Hodgson shortiy
afterward received the appointment of " Superintendent of
the Mosquito Shore."
In 1744 an order was issued in Council, dispatching a cer-
tain number of troops from Jamaica to the Mosquito Shore,
and in 1748 another order for sending a supply of ordnance
to the " new settiements" established there. In fact, every-
thing indicated the purpose of a permanent occupation of
the countiy. The Spaniards remonstrated, and in 17SO-51
threatened a forcible espiUsion of the EnglLsh, whereupon
Trelawney instructed Hodgson to represent to them, that
"the object of keeping a superintendent among ike Indians
was lo restrain them in their hostilities against the Span-
iards !" For a time the Spaniards were deceived, and even
HosleflbyGoOgk'
844 THE MOSQUITO 8H0EB.
went so far as to confer on Hodgson the title of Colonel, for
the services which he professed to render to them. They,
however, finally discovered his daphcity, and made arrange-
mente to carry out their threat
This not only alarmed the settlers, but also Governor
Knowles, who had succeeded Trdawnoy in Jamaica. Ho
opened a correspondence with the Captain-General of Guate-
mala for the cessation of hostilities, till he could hear ii'om
England, whither he wrote that the whole Mosquito affair was
" a Job," and that if Hodgson were not checked or recalled, "he
would involve the nation in difficulties," and that the " In-
dians were so perplexed that tiiey did not know what part to
take." A little later the Indians themselves took up arms
against the English, heing discontented with the treatment
which they had received.
These things did not escape the notice of Spain, and had
their influence ia hringing about the troubles which were
ended by thetreaty of Paris, in 1763, by which Great Britain
agreed to demolish all the fortifications which she had erects
ed, not only oa the Mosquito Shore, but in all " other places
in the territory of Spain, in that part of the world." This
treaty, nevertheless, did not have the effect of entirely term-
inating English intrigue and aggression on the Mosquito
Shore and elsewhere, and its provisions were consequently
revived, and made more explicit and stringent by the subse-
quent treaty of 1783, This treaty provided that all the
" EngUsh settJements on the Spanish continent" should be
abandoned ; but, on the pretext that " tho Mosquito Shore
was not part of the Spanlsk continent, but of the American,
continent," the English managed to evade its provisions, and
to keep up their connection with that coast, as before. This
piece of duplicity led to severe reclamations on the part oi
HosleflbyGoOgk'
Spain, which were only settled ty the supplementary treaty
of 1^86, which stipulated that
"HisEritacnicM^esty's subjectSiand other colonists who bavB en-
joyed the protection of England, shall eyacuate tlie coontry of the
Mosquitos, aa well aa the cootinent in general, and the idands adja-
cent wittmit excepliOD," etc. And that " If there should still remain
any parsons so daiii^ as to preaame, by entering into the interior
country, to obstruct the evacuaHou agreed upon, His Britannic Majes-
ty, so far from affording thenj any succor or protection, will disavow
them in the most solemn manner," etc, etc
The Eaglisli, nevertheless, under authority of another arti-
rle of this treaty, were allowed to cut logwood, within a
certain accurately-defined territory on. the coast of Yucatan,
now toowH as " Belize," or " British Honduras." But they
were strictly forhidden to make permanent establishments,
erect fortiflcataons, or organize any fonu of government ; nor
was the permission thus accorded to be construed as in any
way derogating from the "sovereign territorial rights of the
King of Spain." Yet ftoiu thia simple permission to cut
wood, thus hedged round with solemn treaty stipulations.
Great Britain, by a series of encroachments and aggressions
has come to airogatc absolute sovereignty, not only over Be-
lize and a wide expanse of adjacent territory, but also over
the large islands of Roatan, Guanaja, etc., in tlie Bay of Hon-
duras, which have been organized as colonies of the British
crown I
From 1786 forward. Great Britain ceased to hoW any
open relations with the Mosquito Indiaais, until the decline
of the power of Spain, and the loss of her American posses-
sions. In tte interval, the governors of the provinces of Cen-
tral America had made various estabhshmenis on the Mos-
15*
HosleflbyGoOgk'
346 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
quito Shore, at Cape Graciaa, and at Blueflelds, aad had
erected a fort for the protection of the harbor of San Juan,
at the mouth of the river of the eaine name.
But when the country passed into the hands of the com-
paratively feeble states of Central America, whom it was sup-
posed could offer no effectual reastance to aggre^ion, the
English revived their schemes of aggrandisement on the Mos-
quito Shore. And while these stat^ were occupied with the
questions incident to their new political organization, agents
were dispatched to the coast, from Jamaica and Belize, to
tamper again with the Indians, and to induce them to reject
the authority of the republics which had succeeded to the
rights of Sp^n, In. this they seem to have been, to a certain
degree, successful. Neither rum, nor commi^ons as kings,
admirals, generals, and governors, were wanting, to operate
upon tbe weakness of the savagea. " A regalia," says Mac-
gregor, " consisting of a silver-gilt crown, a sword, and scep-
tre ot moientev^lu were sent out to lend dignity and
j^i'ml II to the restored dynisty of Mosquito' A lavage
hint ur head n an who suited the purp ses of the Jamaicw
W^iwicLa wat j. tch'-l ufon, taken to Behze and formdly
c wned Put 1 e turned out 1 idly In the Imiguage of
Macgregor in hih Report to the Bntish Parliament, " he
combine 1 the bad qualifies of the European and Creole with
the VICIOUS pro|ensttie3 of the Sambo ani the ^jn lou^nes's
ofthelndiin He was k Up 1 in a Irunken Iriwl n 18 i
in 1 was lucc^edMl lyh halfbrotltr Pol ert But it va'i
soon foun I t] at Rolert was in the Spam h interest, and L
was auiorlingly set aaide bj the Bnti'ih agent^ who toik
into fa* or a Sambo named (jeorge Freden t. But he
t f r ved to b an mdiflerent tool and either d ed, oi was
li ppel t r 1 otler Simb wlo ww allei X} the 1 igh
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HISTORICAL SKETCH, 347
Bounding name of " Sohert Charles Frederick^'' and wto
promised (« answer every purpose.
Hia " coronation" wM effected at Belize, on tte 2Sd of
April, 1825, upon which solemn occasion a number of so-
called chiefe were got together, under the seductive promise
of a " big dimik." The ceremonies ■which look place have
heen described by a British subjeet, who wm an. eye-witness
of the proceedings. His picture needs no heightening to
make it irresistibly ludicrous !
" On the previous evening cards of invitation were seat to the dif-
ferent raerchants, requesting their attendance at the courthouse
early in the morning. At this place the king, dn^sed in a British
major's naiform, made his appearance; and his chiefe similarly
clothed, but with sailors' trowaers, were ranged around the room. A
more motley group can hardly be imagined. Here an epanlett*
decorated a herculeim shoulder, tempting \\& dignified owner to view
his loss fcored neighbor wiHi triumphant glanoas. There a want-
ing button displayed a gre^y olive skia under the uniform of a cap-
tain of infantry. At one aide a cautious noble might be Boen, carefully
braced up to the chin, like a modem dandy, defying the moat pene-
iratir^ eyo to jwoue him shirtless ; while the mathematJcaJ movements
of a fourth, panting under such light habiliments, espressed tlie fear
and trembling witli which he awaited some awful accident.
" The order of proceaaion being arranged, the cavalcade moved to-
ward the dmreh ; hia Mosquito Majesty on horseback, supported on
ike light and left by the two senior British officers of the setUemenl,
and hia chieiS following on foot two by two. On its arrival bis
Majesty was placed in a diair, near the altar, and the Bnghsh coro-
nation service was read by the chaplain to the colony, who, on ttiis
occasion, performed tlie part of the Archbiahop of Canterbury.
Vben he arrived at this part, ' And all the people said, let the King
live forever, long live the King, God save
the port, aceording to a previous signal, flr
rising, cried out, ' Long live King Bobert I'
"Hia Majesty seemed ehieay occupied in admiring his finery, £
HosieflbyGoOgk'
348 THE MOSQUITO SHORE,
etlar hia anointing, expressed his gratifleation by repeatedly thtuBt-
ii^ hia hands through iiia thick, bushy hair, and applyii^ Ma finger,
to his nose — in this expressive manner indicating hia de%ht at this
part of the servica
" Before, however, hia obieia could aweai aJlepanoe to their mon-
arch, it was neoessary that tiey sliould pro&as Cliristianity ; and, ac-
cordingly, with slianie be it recorded, they were baptized ' in the
name of the Father, Son, and Holy GhostI' They displayed total ig-
noranoe of the meaning of this ceremony ; and when asked to giyo
their names, took the titles of Lord Rodney, Lord Nelson, or aome
other celebrated officer, and aeemed grievously disappomted when
told Uaat they could only he baptized by ample Ohristiaa names.
"After Has solemn mockery was conoluiicd, the whole assembly
adjourned to a laj^ school-room to eat Uie coronation dinner, when
these poor creaturea all got intoxicated witli rum I A suitable con-
clusion to a farce, as blasphemous and wicked as ever di^racad a
Chiistdan country." (Zhimi's Cental AmetiM, pp. 26, 37. — 1828.)
After having been thus invested with Iho MOTquito purple,
" King Kobert Charles Frederick" waa conducted bact to the
Mosquito Shore, and turned loose to await the further devel-
opmeat of Brilish designs. After the unctious ceremonies at
Belize, he seems to have taken the proceeding in earnest,
and to have deluded himself with tie belief that he was really
a king ! In this character, and moved ttereto by the sug-
gestions of divers scheming traders, and the powerful incen-
tives of gay cottons and rum, ho proceeded, of his sovereign
will and pleasure, to make grants to the aforesaid traders, of
large portions of Ma alleged dominions. These grants were
not only so extensive as to cover the entire shore, but con-
veyed the absolute sovereignty over them to the various
grantees — Rennick, Shepherd, Haly, and others.
When these proceedings came to the ears of the Governor
of Jamaica, and the Superintendent of Beliae, who had cre-
ated " His Mosquito Majesty" for tlieir own use and purposes,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
ttcy created great alarm. Says Macgregor, " it appears that
tliese grants were made without the knowledge of the British
agent, who tad usually been residing on the coast, to keep
up ike connection, with Midland." He adds that " upon their
coming to the knowledge of the British government, they
were very properiy disallowed,"
Not only were they disallowed, but a vessel of war was
sent to the coast to cateli " Robert Chariea Frederick," and
take him to Belize, where he would be unable to do more
miscLief. This was done, but "His Majesty" could not
endure t!ie restrajuts of civilization — he pined away, and
died. But before this lamentable catastrophe took place, he
was induced to affix " Ms mark" to a document styled " a
Will," in which it was provided that the affairs of his king-
dom should be administered by Colonel McDonald, the Su-
perintendent of Belize, as Eegent, during the minority of Ms
heir ; that McDonald should be guardian of his children ;
and, with reference t« the spiritual wants of Ms beloved sub-
jects, " the United Church of England and Ireland should be
the established religion of the Mosquito .nation forever '."
Sainted Kobert I
Upon the death of '' Eobort Charles Frpd^rii-k," hia urn,
" G«orge WHliam Clarence," ihe present incumbent of the
Mosquito throne, was duly proclaimed " Kmg" by the Re-
gent McDonald, and his colleagues. His first act, under their
direction, was the relocation of all the grants which his Ei-
ther had made to the traders, on the groimd that the royal
Eobert Charles was dnmk when he made them, and that
they had been given without a consideration. An agent was
then appointed to take charge of this tender scion of royal-
ty, at Bluefields, whore the latter still remains, in complete
subjection to his maatijrs, who direct all his acts, or rather
HosleflbyGoOgk'
350 THE MOSQUITO SHOBE.
compel his endorsement of their own. From 1841 up to 1848
the proceedings of tJie Englisli agents, in developing their
policy in respect to the Mosquito Shore, and in preparing the
way for its final a^regafciott to the British crown, rise be-
yond the scope of sober history or serious recital, and could
only be properly illustrated by the appropriate pens of Chari-
vari, or of Punch.
All these proceedings were firmly and earnestly protested
against by the Central American States, who, however, re-
ceived no satisfactory repUes to their remonatrances. They
were, furthermore, too much occupied with their own interior
dissenaons to undertake any effectual r^istance to the aggres-
sions of the English agents. In tkis emergency they addressed
an appeal to tie civilized nations of Europe, and a particular
and fervent one to the United States, for its interference
in behalf of their clear territorial rights and sovereignty.
Before time was afforded for action on these appeals, the
termination of the war with Mexico, and the purchsee of
California by the United States, precipitated the course of
EngUsh intrigue and encroachment on the Mosquito Shore.
The British government was not slow to perceive that the
acquisition of California would give to the long-cherished
project of establishing a ship-canal between the Atlantic and
Pacific Oceans, a new, practical, and immediate importance,
and rightly foresaw that it would soon come to attract a
large share of public attention in the United States. Orders
were at once issued for the seiKure of the Port of San Juan
de Nicaragua, the only possible eastern terminns for a canal
by way of the river San Juan, and the Nicaragaan lakes.
This port had always been in the undisputed occupation both
of Spain and Nicaragua ; not a single Mosquito Indian had
ever dwelt there, or within fifty miles of it, in any direction.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HIBTOEICAL SKETCH. 351
yet, under pretext that it constituted " part of the proper do-
mmions of Ws Mosquito Majesty, of wliom Great Britain was
the lawful protector," two British vessels-of-war entered the
harbor in the month of January, 1848, tore down tlie Nicara-
guan flag, raised that of " Mosquito," turned out the Nieai'ar
guan officers, and filled their places with Englishmen. This
done, they sailed away ; but no sooner did the intelligence
of the event reach the interior, ttan the Nicaraguan govern-
ment sent down a small force, expelled iho intruders, and
resumed possession. The British forces, considerably aug-
mented, thereupon returned. Tfie Nicarj^ans, unable to
oppose them, retired up the river, and erected some rude
fortifications on its banis. They were followed by an Eng-
lish detachment, and finally routed, with great loss. Hostil-
ities were further prosecuted, until fie !Nicaraguans, power-
less gainst the forces of Great Britain, consented fo an ar-
mistice, which provided tkat they skould not disturb San
Juan, or attempt to reoccupy the port, ponding the negotia-
tions which, it was foreseen, would follow upon the seizure.
All attempts to induce them to relinquish their claims of
sovereignty over the port, were, however, unsuccessful.
By this high-handed act, committed in time of profound
peace. Lord Palmerston, who had directed it, fondly hoped
to secure for Great Britain the control of the then-supposed
only feasible means of communication between the seas. He
had grasped, as he thought, the tey of the Central American
Isthmus. English officers were at once installed in San
Juan, and a " Consul General" appointed to reside there,
with the most absolute dictatorial powers, supported by what
was called a " police force," irom Jamaica, and the almost
constant presence of a British vessel of war in the harbor.
This act was sbortiy followed by the attempted seizure of
HosleflbyGoOgk'
352 THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
the Island of Tigre, and the Gulf of Fonseca, the e
■western terminus of the proposed canal, on the Pacific. This
attempt waa thwarted by Ameiican diplomacy in that quarter.
The results of American interference are too recent and
weU-known to need recapitulation. An American company
obtmned the privileges of a transit through Nicaragua, and
it was not long before American steamers began to run to
San Juan. A large number of American citizens established
themselves at the port, where they soon succeeded in suffo-
cating British influence. They took the direction of affairs
in tieir own hands, adopted a constitution, and organized a
regular and stable government, pending the final settlement
of tlie various questions concerning Central America, then in
course of negotiation between the United States and Great
Britain. In this condition the place remained, well-ordered,
and affording the fullest protection to person and property,
until the month of June of last year, when, under a misrepre-
sentation of facts, and the gi'oasest perversions of truth, in-
spired by unscrupulous personal hoatihty, the United States
government was induced to issue such orders in respect to it,
to a naval officer of more zeal and ambition of notoriety
than either wisdom or discretion, aa resulted in its bombard-
ment and total destruction. Since this act, which has met
the unanimous reprehension of the country, the town h^
been partly rebuilt Mid re-occupied, and now maintwns mi
extraordinary and most anomalous condition, which can not
long endure vrithout resulting in serious compMcations, The
United States insists, and justly, that it pertains to Nicara-
gua, and that all authority which may be exercised there,
not derived from that State, is an usurpation ; while, on the
other hand, without insisting on the sovereignty of Mosquito,
Great Britain denies it to Nicaragua, ^d prohibits her from
HosleflbyGoOgk'
HISTORICAL SKETCH. 353
attemptiBg to exercise jurisdiction over it. Meantime San
Juan and its people are left helplessly in a political Limbo,
suffering witncsaes of their inability to servo two masters.
The obvious, and probably the only peaceable solution of this
complication, is the voluntary establishment of San Jiiau as
a. free port by Nicaragua, imder the joint protection of Eng-
land and the United States.
Since 1849, nearly the whole interest of the "Mosquito
question" has been centered in San Juan. It is true, Messrs.
Webster and Crampton agreed upon a privet, defining the
limits of Mosquito jurisdiction, and establishing a de facto
Sambo monarchy on the coast, recognized, if not guaranteed,
both by the United States and Great Britain. But the pr<yet
found no fevor in this country, and was, moreover, indig-
nantly rejected by Nicaragua. How far subsequent nego-
ti^ons have tended to bring affairs to a settlement, remains
to be disclosed.
It is nevertheless certain that, while Nicaragua has fretted,
the United States blustered, and Great Britain silently and
sullenly relaxed her gripe, aa cbcumstances have rendered it
necessary, the "Kingdom of Mosquito" has imdergone no
change, but has kept on the even tenor of its way — a happy
ihustration of the conservative and peaceful tendencies of
well-established monarchical institutions I Under all the
complications of the modem time, the royal Clarence, the
hospitable Drummer, and the bibulous Slam, ignorant of the
exalted place which they occupy in the instructions, and dis-
patches, and notes of conference, wherewith the Slama and
Drummers of other lands, do gravely amuse themselves, still
cherish the well-being of their beloved and fellow-subjects,
who, in turn, hunt, and fish, and cultivate the " big drunk"
as of yore ! E.
HosleflbyGoOgk'
TABIOUS NOTES ON THE TOPOGBAPHT, SOIL, CLIMATE,
AND NATIVES OP THE MOSQUITO SHORE.
The subjoined extracts, from various publislied worka and
memoirs of acknowledged authenticity, and from ori^nal
documents, exhibit tbe condition of the people of the Mos-
quito Shore, their habits and modes of life, from tbe year
1700 up to the present time. It will be seen that few if
any changes have taken place for tlie better, in this iong
period of a hundred and fifty years.
1710.
Fmm, Dampi^'s "Voyage aroimdSie Worl^" London, Itll, p. 7-11.
" The Mosquito Indians are but a email nation or femily,
and not a hundred men of them in number, inhabiting on
the main, on the north side, near Cape Gracias k Dios, * *
They are coveted by the privateers as hunters, * * They
have no form of government simong them, but take the Gov-
ernor of Jamaica to be one of tiie greatest princes in tbe
world."
1767.
Extrada from "Some acconnt of the Mosquito Tiirilory, witteit m
I'IST, white that country was in Ute 2>ossemon of the British, by Col,
Robert Hodgson, formsriy Mis Modesty's Cmmaander-in- Chief Sapsr-
intoidenl, and Agent on (he Mosquito Shore,
This Colonel Hodgson- was son of the Captain Ilodg-
BOn who was sent to tlie Mosquito Coast, in 1740, by
HosleflbyGoOgk'
NOTES AND EXTBAOTS. 355
Governor Trelawney. He states that the popiilatioa of tte
shore, at the time of his writing (1757), exclusive of abor-
igines was : " Whites 154, Mestizoes and Mulattoes 170, In-
dian and Negro slaves 800 — total 1124," He observes that
ihe " whites are without laws," but, nevertheless, living with
great regularity ; and thai, if tbe number of white children
is small, " it may be imputed to most of the women having
lived with so much freedom formerly," He then proceeds to
give a very clear and accurate account of the country, its
products, and people, ss follows ; —
" The fe,ee of the country is various. The sea-coast^ from
Cape Cameron to Blueflelds, is low and level, but the land
rises gradually up any of the large, feir rivers with wbioh it
abounds, and whose regular flowery banks form beautifiil
avenues, and about twenty miles up is high enough for aay
purpose. But the lowland is full of swamps. B'ear the
coast are several largo lagoons, whose length, for tbe most
pait, is parallel thereto, and are so joined to each other by
narrow neeks of water, that half this distance may be gone
inland, upon smootb water ; in the flood times this may be
called a range of islands, lying close in with the m^n, but
the land is not much overflowed. To the westward Mid
soufliward of the above capes, the land is high, almost to the
sea-side, (h,e hills rising gently like the swell of the sea. The
greater part of the higher land is covered with large woods ;
but the lowland consists chiefly of large, level lawns, or savan-
nahs, as they are called, with scarce a tree, and some of them
very extensive. The whole country is remarkably well watered
by many fine rivers, which have a long couree ; by innumer-
able smaller ones, and by creeks Mid lagoons ; but all the
rivers have the inconvenience of shoal bars at their mouths.
The soil of the high woody lajid is the best, and is every
HosleflbyGoOgk'
S56 THE MOSQUITO SHOEE,
where oxcelloat ; being either a deep black mould, or ricli
brick clay, "What low woody ground is mfersperwecL amoBg
the lawns is not so good , but the inhabitanfa who titherfo
Lave chosaa it for their plantations, have found that it will
produce what they want very well The savannah lands are
the worst; the soil is hght sand mixed with some nch mould,
but might be greatly improved and made veiy useM. At
present they are used for pasturage. The swamps or
marshes are very rich soil ; and if the wood which grows on
them were cut down, they would either dry up, or, with a
little more pains, might he drained." — P. 21.
"Indigo grows all about the country, of the same kind
with that of the province of Guatemala, which is esteemed
the best in the world.
" Cotton grows every where, in the worst land ; the staple
ia remarkably good. There are three species of that kind
which is manufactured, one of which ia a light reddish
brown, and looks like silk," — P. 23.
" Sugar, of which the little that ia planted grows remarkar
bly well in this country, which is much better adapted for it
than any of the islands, on account of the great convenience
of streams of water for such works and for carriage ; the
country not being subject to severe droughts, and free fiom
hurricanes." — P. 29.
"The climate ia very eenaibiy cooler than that of Jammca,
and very healthy, on which account people from that island
sometimes come hither. Indeed, the disorders in both aro
of the same nature ; but here they are not near so frequent
or BO violent as in that island. During the north winds the
se^on may, with propriety, be called winter.
" The wind most common is the sea-breeze, or trade-wind.
It blows fi'esh in June and July, but very moderate in April,
HosleflbyGoOgk'
NOTES AND EXTBACTB. 357
May, August, and September, particularly in April, and from
fie middle of August to the latter part of September. But
from, that time to the end of October, a westerly wind pre-
vails along the coast to the westward of Cape Graoias, and a
southerly one along the coast to the south of it ; after which,
to the end of February, at the full and change of the moon,
strong north winds may be expected, veering roimd from east
to west, and continuing about a week, yet is scarce ever so
strong as to prevent vessels from beating to windward, and,
if thoy choose it, getting in to Bonacca. * * * The land
wind blows seven leagues off to sea, although sometimes
very weak. * * * The month of March is very uncer-
tain. The seasons are much the same as in other parls of
tie continent. In tie rainy se^on, scarce a day passes
without a heavy shower ; the first commonly begins in June,
and lasts about six weeks, in which tdme the rivers rise con-
siderably, and are very rapid. The second begins ahout the
middle of October, and lasts about two months. When they
are over, the vegetation is surprisingly quick, and there is
the further advantage of frequent, intermediato, gentle
The harbors on this coast do not an-
lere would be for them. On the bar of
Brewer's Lagoon there is seven feet water; often more on
that of Black River. On those of Carataska and Warina
Sound, nine feet; Great River and Pearl Cay, eight
feet. * * *
"The natives or Mosquito people are of two breeds, one
the original Indians, and the other a mixture of those and
negroes, caUed Sambos. The latter originated from the
cargoes of two Dutch ships filled with negroes, which were
cast away on the coaat^ where, after several battles, the ne-
groes had wives and ground given to them ; since which they
HosleflbyGoOgk'
358 THE MOSQUITO 8HOHE.
tavo greatly multiplied, and there is now no distinction be-
tween them in their rights and customs." — P. 40.
" Ttough they are fo all intents and purposes one people,
yet they are not so properly a single state as three united,
each ofwhich is independent of the others.
"I. Those who inhabit the southern extremity lii] Erag-
man's, and are mostly the original Indians ; their head-man
is called Governor.
" n. Those who extend to about Little Blaot Elver, and
are mostly Sambos ; their chief is called King.
" HL ThMe westward, who are Indians and Sambos
mixed ; their head man is called Genei al
"The power of thew three headmpn is neirly equal, with
a small difference m tavor ot the king, who is a little sup-
ported by the ■whites for the sake of hit n\me But none
of these chiefs have much more than i np^itive yoice, and
never do any thing witJiout consulting a Louncil of old men
"* * * The Img has hti eommtsston or patent for
being called soft o>a the Gove) nor of Jamaica And all the
other chief people have commissions (adnurals and captains)
from His Majesty's Supeimtendent , and, upon the strength
of these, always asiume much more authority than thty could
witb.out. However, it is at best such that it may be more
properly said, that their directions are followed, than their
orders obeyed ; for even the young men are above seiring
the ting, and will toll him that they axe as free as he is, so
that if he had not a few slaves of other Indians, he would be
obliged to do all his own work." — P. 49.
Hodgson next speais of tie ravages of small-pox and
drunkenness among them, and concludes :
" * * * Hence, the number of Mosqiiito people, in their
present way of life, probably never exceeded tm or eleven
HosleflbyGoOgk'
NOTES AND EXTBACTS,
thousand. * * * From fiie best computation, they a
atove seven tkowsand souk."
George Gbulmer^ &t.sietary vj B)itid of Dnde From MSS. Mies
jfiw lisii ijf Boaid
"The present niiinl>pr of tJie Mosquito Indians is nn-
knowE, It happened among them, piobiUy, as among the
North Amencan Indians, that tiiey dechned in numl>ers and
degenerated in spirit in proportrion nearly as the white peo-
ple settled among them. The Mosijuitos, Uke the Caribs
of San Domingo, consist of three distJnct races : the aho-
ri^nes, the descendants of certain African negroes who were
formerly wrecked on the coast, and a geaeration containing
the blood of both. If the Spaniards earnestly desired to
destroy them, they could not, I think, make a very vigor-
ous resistance. They are chiefly defended by the rivers,
morasses, and woods of the country, and, perhaps, st^Il more
by the diseases incident to the climate."
1818.
From Roberts^ Narrative of Voyages and Bkoarsions on ihe East
Coast of Gentiral America.
" la the Mosquito Shore, a plurality of mistresses is con-
sidered no disgrace. It is no uncommon circumatance for a
British subject to have one or more of these native women
at different parts of the coast. They have acquired great
influence through them.
" I have never known a marriage celebrated among them ;
these engagements are mere tacit agreements, sometimes
broken by mutual consent. The children here and at Bliie-
flelda are in general baptized by the captains of trading ves-
HosleflbyGoOgk'
6W THE MOSQUITO 8H0KE.
sels from Jammca, wb.o, on their annual visit to tiie coast,
perform this coiomony, with any thing. but reverence, on all
who have been bom during their absence ; aud many of
tliem are indebted to these men for more than baptism. In
proof of this, I could enumerate m.or6 than a dozen ac-
knowledged children of two of these captains, who seem to
have adopted, without scruple, the Indian idea of polygamy
to its fullest extent By this hcenfjous and immoral con-
duct, they have, Eowovor, so identified themselves with the
natives, as to obtain a sort of monopoly of the sale of goods.
They have also insinuated themselves into the good graces
of some of the leading men, so that their arrival is hailed
with joy by all dames, aa the season of festivity, revelry,
christening, and hcentionsnesa '."
1828.
Mwn " Jfepori of the Com/mUsioTiers of Legal Inquiry m iJie case of
the Indians of Himduras," ordered by the Souse of Goimiums "to be
priated," July 10, 1828.
" The Mosquito Indiana are a barbarous and cruel people,
in the lowest state of civilization, and under the most abject
subjection to their kings or chie&. They are hostile to all the
other Indian nations, who are a mild, timid, and peaceful
race, and who appear to live under patriarchal governments.
* * * Differences so striking between nations of the same
continent, and divided by no inaccessible barriers, have
given rise to a conjecture, confirmed by concurrent tradition,
that the Mosquitos had a distinct origin. This tradition
states, that a ship loaded with negro men from Africa was,
at a very remote period, wrecked on the Mosquito shore ;
that these negroes seiaed upon the male inhabitants of the
sea-coasts, massacred them, and then, by intermixture with
HosleflbyGoOgk'
NOTES AND EXTRACTS. 361
tte Indian women, altered the race and liabits of £he nation.
This tradition is confirmed hj the physical appearance of the
Mosqnitoa, who indicate this mixture between the Indian
and negro,"
1836.
JajlKS Woods, for sirms time a residmt on Sie MosquUo Shore.
la the year 1836, one James Woods, a native of Ipswich,
England, went out to Central America, under the auspices of
a " Colonization Company." On his return, he pubhshed an
account of his adventures, to serve as a warning against
other companies. He resided awhile at Cape Gracias, in
charge of a store of provisions, rum, etc. He says :
" The rum was a dangerous thing in the store, for the In-
dians will Hll a man for a glass of rum ; and there were
only five Europeans at the Cape, I had a demijohn of
brandy for the Indian ting, but he was gone up the river.
He and his brother wore taken from the Mosquito shore
when young, and carried to the island of Jamaica, where
they were taught to read and writfl the English language.
After staying there a number of years, they were brought
bact to the shore. One was made ting, the other a gen-
era], and although brought up in a civilized state, yet they
returned to the wild and savage condition in which their
people live, getting drunk, and giving themselves up to the
most disgusting habits. No sooner had the king heard that
I had a demijohn of brandy for him, than he set out to re-
turn home. He went to the house of a Frenchman, named
Bouchet, who came down to the beach and told me his
majesty wanted to see me. I went to the house, where the
ting was lying on a bed, rather unwell. I made my com-
pliments to him, and (isted him how he did. He told me
HosleflbyGoOgk'
366 THE MOSQUITO SHORE,
1, kumi.
2, ■«il
3, niupa
4(2+2,) nalwa!
5_ matisip
g matlilkabe
7 (6 + 1), matlalLabe pun kumi.
8 (6+2), matlalkabe pun wal
9 (6 + 3), maflalkabe pun niupi.
10 (5X2), matawalsip
11 (5X2 + 1), ^lafwil'app«r^kunli.
20 (20xl)r iwaniibka tumi
21 (20X1+1). iwanai^la tuimpurakumi.
( iwanajika kumi pura mata-
so (20X1 + 10), J ,,,^j,
(■ m 'luii'ia kumi pura matawal-
37(20x1+10+6 + 1) ] =ip I'lr' mitl'^lkabe pura
' kumi
40 (20X2), inanai-ki nal
100 (20x5), iwaTiaiiki mitsij.
HosleflbyGoOgk'