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Full text of "Walks through London, including Westminster and the borough of Southwark, with the surrounding suburbs; describing every thing worthy of observation in the public buildings, places of entertainment, exhibitions, commercial and literary institutions, &c. down to the present period: forming a complete guide to the British metropolis"

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VOulki  tbtongfi  WLmist^n, 

INCLVDIKG 

WESTMINSTER 

AVn>  THB 

BOROUGH  OF  SOUTHWARK, 

WITH   THB 
DESCRIBINO  ETS&T  THIKO  WORTHY  OF  OBSERVATIOK  IK  THE 

PUBUC  BUILDINGS, 

Places  of  Ehtertainmeni^  Exhibitions,  Commercial 
and  Literary  Institutions^  6fc, 

DOWN  TO  THB  PBBSBNT  RBIOD  : 

Ibraing  a  compleCe 

GUIDE  TO.  THE  BRlilStf  METROPOLIS. 


BY;       . 

DAVID  HUGHSON,  L.  L.D^^Yscci  .     J\ 

VaiNTEO  FOB   SBBBWOODy    ITBBLTy  AND    JONBSy  PAT£BIfOtTB»-ROW  ; 

MBrray,  Albemarlc-Street ;  Oarke,  New  Bond-Street ;  Lindtell,  Wigmore- 
Street ;  Cbapple,  Ml-Mall  ;  Coloaghi,  Cockapur-Slreet ;  Walker,  Straod ; 
Tajlor  aod  Heaeej,  Fleet-Street;  J.  M.  Richardaon,  Comhill;  Cowie 
and  €o.  I^otiltrf ;  Blackwood,  Princet^treet,  Edinbar^h ;  Brash  aod  Rcid, 
Olaigow ;  and  M.  Kecnc,  and  J.  Camming,  Dablin. 

1817. 


\\>^ 


A^ 


■\ 


X: 


;^ 


»     *"«'        ^. 


PREFACE. 


IN  the  following  work  it  has  been  the  endeavour^ 
both  of  the  artist  and  the  compiler^  to  exhibit^  as 
near  as  their  limits  would  allow,  London  as  it  is  : 
bot  that  its  antiquities  have  not  been  neglected,  its 
numerous  engravings  will  undeniably  evince.  These 
affording  views  of  the  principal  public  edifices,  &c. 
of  ancient  and  modem  London,  may  be  viewed  as 
a  kind  of  panoramic  sketch  of  this  great  Metropolis 
in  a  more  portable  form  than  has  ever  yet  been 
offered  to  the  public. 

With  respect  to  the  contents  at  large,  notwith- 
standing that  some  errors  or  omissions  may  be  un- 
avoidable in  the  description  of  an  extensive  variety  of 
objects,  necessarily  evanescent,  it  is  presumed  that 
b 


PREFACE. 

the  present  little  work  embraces  every  recent 
change  and  improvement  within  its  circuit,  forming 
a  diversity  equally  pleasant  and  useful,  and  at  the 
same  time  embracing  every  species  of  information 
that  can  distinguish  any  other  former  or  contem- 
porary production  of  this  kind ;  designed  not  only 
for  the  local  reader,  but  as  an  elegant  and  accept- 
able companion  for  a  country  visitant,  relative,  or 
friend. 

THE  EDITOR. 


Directions  to  the  Binder. 


page 
The  tnmp  to  face  tbe  Table  of  Refcrencct 

Walk  1st  and  New  Costom  House 8 

Royal  Exchange 4 

St.Michaert,  Cornhill , 6 

The  £ast  India  House . .  .7 

IroDmongers'-Hall 11  * 

The  Mint 14  ' 

The  Trinity  HOQse 17' 

The  Tower  of  London 19 

St.  Dunstan's  in  the  East 96 

London-Bridge .^ S6 

The  Monnment « 30 

Walk  «d  and  Crosby  Hall 86 

FiDabdry-iSqQare 46 

The  Excise  Office 47 

Walk  dd  and  tbe  Mansion  House    4» 

Fishmoogen'-Hall 50 

Walk  4tb  and  the  Bank M 

Auction  Mart   ^1 

The  London  Institution    eH 

Walk  5th  and  St.  Mary  le  Bow    69 

Skinner's-Han 71 

Walk  6th  t^nd  Goldsmiths' Hail 7» 

St.  Lawrence'i  Church 79 

Guildhall  front,  &C 80 

Blsckwen  Hall «» 

SSoo  College M 

Walk  7th  and  St.  PAul's  School    dl 

Walk  8th  and  PhysicianB*  College 99 

St.  PauFs  Cathedfal 817 

Ancient  part  of  Cbrist's  Hospital 107 

Christ's  Hospital,  Grammar  School,  &c 108 

St.  Bartholomew's  Hospital 1  IS 

Iiiart  of  the  Charter-House 116 

Charter-House  Chapel,  8tc. 1 17 

Walk  9th  and  Middle  Temple  Hall 129 

Jnjterior  of  the  Temple  Church 188- 

Entrance  to  the  Temple  Church 184 

Seijcanfs  Inn,  Fteet^reet 140 

St.  Bride^s  Church,  Fleet-Street 141 

Walk  10th  and  Pnrnital's  Inn,  interior 14i« 

F^iml's  Inn,  Holbhm 140 

Walk  nth  and  Staple  Inn,  Holbom    LSI 

Scijeanfs  Inn,  Chaoceiy-Lane 161 

Temple  Bar 162 

Walk  l«th  and  Corent  Garden  Tbeatie 163 


Directions  to  the  Binder. 

St.  Clement's,  StraDd 1 65 

SurgeiMM*-Hall 170 

Somenet-House    175 

Drory-Lane  Theatre 180 

Church  and  Entrance,  Saroy    182 

Remaint  of  the  Savoy  1 85 

Waterloo  Bridge  186 

London  from  the  Strand  Bridge 185 

Si.  P^al'i,  Covcnt  Garden    187 

Nortbumberland-HoQse    194 

Charing  CroM  . .  . ..... . . 195 

Horse  Guards 198 

Whitehall i9» 

Westminster-Hall 309 

Entrance  to  the  Chapter-House,  Westminster 918 

Entrance  to  St.  Erasmus's  Chapel   981 

Entrance  to  the  Nare  from  the  Cloisters 99ft 

Poet's  Comer,  Westminster 993 

Chinese  Bridge 995 

Buckingham-House 9S1 

Entrance  to  St,  James's  Palace     93ft 

Earl  Spencer's  House,  Green  Park 934 

Walk  Idtb  and  the  Treasury .' 933 

St.  George's,  Hanover-Square  . . . .  • 949 

Statue  of  the  Puke  of  Bedford 958 

Statue  of  Charles  Fox 959 

Bloomsbury  Church 959 

Foundling  Hospital 9G0 

The  Sessions-House,  Clerkenwell 9^4 

St.  Luke's  Hospital 969 

Christ's  Church,  Spital  Fields 973 

London  Docks  977 

Walk  14th  and  Pulteney  Hotel 979 

Bishop  Andrews's  Tomb 987 

Walk  15th  and  Cavendish-Square 991 

Christ's  Church,  Black  Friars 993 

New  Bctblem  996 

Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  999 

Walk  16th  and  the  British  Museum     300 

Entrance  to  iambeth  Pklace    300 

'Lambeth  Palace  from  the  Thames 300 

The  Cloisters,  Lambeth  Palace    301 

Vanzhall  Bridge  and  Penitentiaij   303 

London  from  Greenwich  Park S09  * 

Walk  17ih  and  St.  Leonard,  Shoreditch 313 

Wdk  1 8th  and  Black  Friars  Bridge 33 1 

Stepney  Church 333 

West  India  Docks 334 

Kensington  Pdace.  .., 338 

Chelsea  Hospital v 341 

Mary  la  Bonne,  New  Church 350 


A  Table  of  References  to  the  Churches^ 
Principal  Buildings  and  Squares^  shew- 
ing their  Sitiiation  in  the  annexed  Map, 


VII 

vli 

VII 
VII 


CHURCHES. 

I  St.  Albao,  Woodttreei  VlI 

8  AJ|.H«»owt      Iterkii«» 

Tow«r-strc«t .  -    -     - 

3  AlLHallows,  Bread-tt. 

4  All-Hal )owB,Tb«mes^t. 
5AU-Ha]lowt,    Lomb.-st. 
«All-HalUmt,Lond..wan  VII 
7  AU-Hallows     Stoioiog,      . 

Mark-Uoc  .     .    .     .  Vll 
8$t.Alphag«»Aldermanb.  VII 

9  St.  Andrew^  Holboni    -  VII 

10  St.  Andrew  Undenbaft  VII 

1 1  St.  Andrew  Wardrobe, 

Bfacklriara       -    -    -  VU 

15  St.  Aon,  Aldengate  •  VII 
la  ■  limeboaM  -  -  DC 
14 Sobo     -.   -     -    VI 

16  St.  AntboUo,  Badge-row  VII 
l6St.Anftio,Watliagtt.-  VII 

17  St.  Bartbolomew,  Royal 

Ricbaoge  .    -    .    - 

18  St.  Bartbol.  tbe  Great, 

West  Smitbfield 

19  St.  Bartbol.  tbe   Leu, 

West  Smitbfield    -    -  VII 

90  St.BenDet  riDk,Tbxead- 

needle-strect    -    -     -  VII 

91  — —  Gracecbnrcb- 

•treet VII 

92  — ^—  VunV%  Wharf  VII 

93  St.  Botolph,  Aldengate  VIII 

94  I  AldgaU  -  VIII 
96  — —  BUbopsgate  VII 

96  St.  Bride,  Fleet-street  -  VII 

97  Christ  Cbarcb,Newgatc- 

street VII 


VU 

vrt 


98  Cbrist  Church,  Sarrcy  -  XII 

49 Spital-fields  Vlir 

ao  St  Clement,  Eastcheap  VU 
31 Danes-     -     VI 

39  St.  Dionis  Backchurch  -  VIX 
S3  St.  DuDstan  io  tbe  East  VII 

34^ in  the  West    VI 

35 Stepney    -    XI 

56  St.  Edmund   the  King, 

Lombard-street     -    -  VII 

37  St.  Etbelburga,  Bishops- 

gate-street  -     -    -    -  VII 

38  St. George,  Botolph-lane  VTI 
89 BUtomsbury     VI 

40  ———Queen-square      II 

41  — — —    Hanorer-sq.      V 
49 Southwark   -  XII 

43  ..  in  tbe  East  -  VIII 

44  St.  Giles,  Cripplegate   -  VII 
45 in  the  Fields    VI 

46  St.  Helen,  Bishopsgate    VII 

47  St.  John  Baptist,  Savoy    VI 

48 Horslydown     -XIII 

49 the  Erangelist, 

Westminster    -    -     -    XI 

50 ClerkenwelT    -    III 

61 Wapping    -     -Xni 

59  ■      ■       *s  Chapel,  Bed- 

/ord-row  ....  I| 
53  St.  James,  DukeVplace  VIII 

64 Garlick-hill  -  VII 

65 Piccadilly     -     VI 

66 Clerkenwell-    III 

57  St.  Catherine  Coleman- VIlI 

58  I  Crec,Lead- 

cnhall- street    .    -    . 


A  Table  of  References. 


fTalk 
5.9  St.  Catberine,  near  the 

Tower XIII 

60  St.  Lawrence  JewrjyCat- 

eatoD-street     -     -    -  VII 

61  St.  Leonard,  Sboreditch     IV 
6e  St.  Luke,  Chelsea    -     -    XI 

63 Old  street      -    III 

64  St.  Magnus,  Ldnd.-brid.  VII 
66  St.  Margaret,  Lothbnry  VII 

66 Westminst.    XI 

67 Pattens, 

Tower-street    -     -     -  VII 
68  St.  Martin,  Ladgate      -   VII 

69 Outwicb      -  VII 

70 in  the  Fields    VI 

71  St.Mary,Abchurcb-1ane  VII 
72 Magdalen, 


73- 
74- 
76 

76- 
77- 

78- 

79- 


Bermondsey    - 


side 


Aldermanb. 
■  Aldermary  - 
leBow^Cbeap- 


-at  Hill    .     - 

— Magdalen,Old 

Fish-street  -     -     -     - 

—  Somerset, 

Thames-street  -     -     - 
Lambeth 


81  — 

82  — 

83  — 
84 

85  — 

86  — 


XII 
VII 
VH 

VII 
VII 

VII 

VII 
XI 
VII 

III 

XII 
X 

I 


-  Woolnoth     - 

-  Islington 

-  Newington   - 

-  Kensington  - 
.  la  Bonne 
.  Wbitecliapel  VIII 

-  le  Strand      -     VI 

87 Rotberhitlie-XIII 

88  St.  Matthew,  Friday-st:  VH 

99  «_ Betbn.-gn.     IV 

90  St.  Michael,  Bassishaw-  VII 

Cornhill  -  VII 
Crooked-lane  VII 
Queenbitbe  -  VII 
Royal,College 

VII 


Wood-street  VII 

96  St.  Mildred,  Bread-street  VII 

97  — Poultry  -     -  VII 

98  Sti  Nicholas,  Cole  Abbey  VII 

99  St.  Olavc,  Hart-street  -  VU 
100 Jewry,  Old 

Jewry  -----  VII 

101 '- Tooley-st.  -  XII 


IFalk 
10«St.  Paul's,  Co?.  Garden    VI 

103 Shad  well-    -VIII 

104  St.PeterlePtoor,Broad-  VII 

street VII 

105 Cornhill  -    -  VII 

106 in  the  Tower  VIII 

107  St.  Saviour,  Borough, 

High-street    -    -     -  XII 

108  St.  Stephen,  Colem.-rt.  .VII 
109 ^Walbrook  VU 

110  St.  Switbin, Cannon-it.  VII 

1 1 1  St.  Sepulchre's,  Snowh.  VII 

112  Temple  Church,  Inner 

Temple     -    -    -    -    VI 

115  St.  Thomac,  Southwark  XII 
114  Trinity,  Minories  -     -VIII 

116  St.  Vedttst,  Foster-lane  VII 

PUBLIC  BUILDINGS. 

1  Admiralty,  CharingCross    XI 

2  African  House,  Leaden- 

hall-street  -    -    -    -  vn 

3  Apothec.    Han,  Blaclc- 

friars VII 

4  Asylum,    St.    George's 

Fields XI 

5  Bakers*  Hall,  Harp-lane  VII 

6  Bank,  Threadnecdle-st.  VII 

7  Barbers*Hall,Monkwcll- 

street VII 

8  Barnard's  Inn,  Holborn    VI 

9  Site  of  Blacksmiths*  Hall  VII 
10  Blackwtll  Hall  -  -  -  VU 
U  Brewers' Hall     -     -     -  VII 

12  BricklaycT**  Hall     -     -  VII 

13  Bridewell  Hosp.  Bridge- 

street     Vif 

14  Brit.  Fire  Office,  Strand    VI 
16  Borough  Court,  St.  Mar- 
garet's Hill      -     -     -  XII 

16  Batchers' Hall   -    -    -  Vll 

17  CarpenUrs'  Hall      -     -  VII 

1 8  Christ's  Hosp.  Newgate- 

street     VII 

19  ClerkA'  Hafl  -     -     -     -  VII 

20  Clement's  Inn  "  -    -     -    VI 

21  Clifford's  Inn      -     -     -    Vl 

22  Cloth  workers*  Hall      -  VU 

23  Coacb  Makers'  Hall     -  VU 

24  Coopers'  Hall     -    -    -  VII 

25  Cordwalners'  Hall   -     -  VII 

26  House  of  Correct.  Cold 

Bath  Fields      -    -    -     U 


A  TahU  (tf.  Rrferenees. 


fTM 
V  Catj  ^  Umdoii  lying-in 

Hoqutal  ....  Ill 
US  CnUen'  HaU  ...  VII 
99  Camera'  Hatl  .  .  -  VII 
30  Dmpen'  Hall  -  .  .  VII 
SI  Dycn'      Hnli,    fiibow- 

Inoc VII 

At  EiMt  India  Honte  -  ^  VII 
MEmiirmdcren'HaU.  -VII 
84  Excite  Office,  BroaJ-tt.  VII 
35  Ezcheqocr,  New  Palace- 

Vanl  -  ^  -  .  -  XI 
96  ruhmoof^en*  UaU  >     -  VII 

87  Fleet  Pnaon  -     -     -    -  VII 

88  Fktchen*  Hall  ...  VII 
88  Fonndera'  Hall  ...  VII 

40  Faundliog  Hospital       -      II 

41  Framework  Knitten'H.  Ill 
49  FurDifal't  Inn,  Holbora  VI 
48  Girdler'B  Hall  ...  VII 
44  Globe  Fire  Office,  Corah.  VII 
48  Glorert'  Hall     -     .     .    Ill 

46  Goldsniitb*tHall,Fofter. 

lane VII 

47  Gray**  Inn,  Holbora     .    VI 

48  Grocers'  Hall,  Poaltry  .  VII 

49Gai1dbaU VII 

60  Haberdaahen'  Hall  .  VU 
51  HandinHandrireOfficc, 

Bridfe.ftreet  .  -  -  VII 
59  Hcrttd't  College,  Bcn- 

Bet'»Hill  .  .  .  -VII 
58  Inferial  and  Son  Fire 

Office,  Cornhill     .    .  VII 

54  Innholders'  HaU      .'   .  VII 

55  Joiners'  Hall  *  -  -  -  VII 
58  Ironmongers'  Hall  -     -  VII 

67  Leathenellers'  Hall      -  VU 

58  Lincoln's  Inn     ...    VI 

59  Lyon's  Ion    ....    VI 

60  London  Hosp.  Mile  End  VIII 

61  Lorimer'a  Hall   .     .    .  VU 

69  Magdalen,    the.    Black 

Friars  Road     -    .    .XII 

68  Mansion  House  .  .  .VII 
64  Marshalsea,  Boroogb  -  XII 
65*Ma8ons' Hall      -     -     -  VH 

66  Mercers'  Hall    .    .    .  vil 

67  Meichant  Taylors'  Hall  VII 

68  Monument,  the,  .  .  VII 
69Nafy  Office,  Somerset. 

Place VI 

70  New  Theatre,  Haymark.    VI 


71  Olymp.  Theatre,  Wych 

street     .....    VI 

79  Newgate    Prison,     Old 

Baitey VII 

73  New  Goal,  Seuthwark  -  XII 

74  New  Prison,  Clerkenwell    HI 

75  New  Inn,  Wych-strcct  .    VI 

76  Opera  House,  Haymark.    VI 

77  Bainter-stainers'  Hall  -  VII 

78  Pantheon,  Ozford^treet    VI 

79  Pay    Office,     Somerset. 

House    .....    VI 

80  Pewterers'  Hall  .    .    -  VU 

81  PbTsicians'         College, 

Warwick-lane  -  -  .VII 
89  Phceniz  Fire  Of.  Lom. 

bard-st.-  -  .  ,  .  vil 
88  Plaisterers' Hall      -     -  VII 

84  Plumbers'  Hall  ...  VII 

85  Post  Office,  Lombard-4t.  VII 
86 -Site  oT  Poultry  Compter  VII 

87  Royal       Amphitheatre, 

Westminster-Bridge   -    XI 

88  Royal  Aeademy,  Somer- 

set  House  ....    VI 

89  Royal  Circus,  Blackfriare 

Road XII 

90  Royal  Exchange,  Corah.  VII 

91  Royalty.  Theatre,    near 

Wdlclose-ftquare  .  .VIII 
99  Sadlers'  Hall  .  -  -  vil 
98  St.  Luke's  Hosp.  Old-st.    Ill 

94  St.  Bartholomew's  Hosp. 

Smithfield  -     -     .     .  VII 

95  St.  Geoige's  Hosp.  Hyde 

Park X 

96  Sadler's  Wells     -     -     .    Ill 
97Salt«-rs'Hall-    ...  VII 

98  Scotch  Hospital,  Crane- 

Court     .     -     ...    VI 

99  Serjeants' Inn,Chancery- 

lane  -----.    vi 

100  Sessions    House,    Old     * 
Bailey VH 

101  Sessions  Honse,  Clerk. 
enwcll Ill 

109  SioQ   College,  London 

Wall VII 

108  Skinner's  HaU  -    -    -  VII 

104  South    Sea    House, 

Thrcadneedle-strect-  VII 

105  SUmp  Office,  Somertet 

House-    ....    VI 


A  Table  nf  Rrfettnces. 


Walk 
lOS  StapU  Ina^  Holbom  -    VI 

107  Stationera'  HaU     -    -  VII 

108  Son  Fire  OiBce  •  -  Vli 
lOd  Symond's    Idd^  CIwii^ 

eery-lane  -  -  -  -  VI 
llOTallMv^cbaodlert'HaU  VII 
111  Tliavies  Idb^  Holiboni- 

Hill VII 

lUTbeTemjile,  Fle«t-tt.  VII 
1  la  Theatre  Royal,  Drury- 

Iwe     -    .    •    i.    •    VI 

114  ■  Corent- 

f^rden       -     -    -    -    VI 

1 1 5  Trinity  Hoase,  Tower-      \ 

bill  ,...<.  .VIII 
116Trimty    Almsbooaes, 

-Mile  End IV 

117  Tariiers' Hall   -    -    -  VII 

118  Vintner'^  HaU  -  . VII 

1 1 9  Union  Hall,  Soatliwark  XII 
IdO  Watermen's  HaU  -  <*  VII 
191  Wax-ebandleia'  Hall  •  VU 
199  Weaver*'  Hall  ...  VII 
198  W:elth  Charity  School, 

-Gray's  Ion  Road  «•  II 
194  Wcttniniter  Fire  OiBce    VI 

195 Hall-    -    XI 

19tf '    Lying-in 

.Hospital   -    ...    -    XI 

1 97 Infiraary    XI 

198  Giltspnr-st.     Compter  VII 

SQUARES, 
a  America,  Minories    -    -VIII 
b  BedWord,  near  Great  Has* 
•eU-6tnet   .    .    .    -  VU 


c  Berkeley^ 

d  Bloomsbnry,  Gt. 

street    -    «•    -    «    - 
e  Bridgewater,  near  Baihi* 


WOk 
-     V 


VI 


UI 


f  Bmmwick,  Fonadl.  Hoa^ 

pital     -    .    -    -    .  II 

g  Cafendith,nearOiiBpd.it.  V 
b  Charter    House,     West 

Smitbfield  •  .  «  .  UI 
i  Cold    Bath,   CoU  Bath 

Fields ^    •  II 

j   Finsbnry,  Mooraeida      -  III 

k  Fitiroy,  New  Road    -    -  I 

I  OoMen,  Brewcr^««et    -  VI 

m  Grosrenor,  Ozford.slreet  V 

n  Hanorer  -  ...  -  V 
o  Leicester,   or    Leicester 

Fields VI 

p  Manchester,     Mary     la 

bonne    -----  V 

q  New,  Linooln'4  Inn  -    -  VI 

r  Portman,  near  Oxford-st.  V 

s  Prince'«,Ratdiff  Highway  VIII 

t  Queen's,  Blootasbory     -  II 

▼    '      ■   '   Westminster    -  XI 

n  Red  Lion,  Holbom  -    -  VI 

w  Russel,  Bloomsbiiry  -    «  U 

X  Salitbary,  Fleet-it«   *    -  VU 

y  Sobo,  near  Oxford-street  VI 

%  St.  James's,  near  Fall  MaU  VI 

•  'Cavistodc,  New  Road     -  II 

•  •  We1]elaie,RatdifrHi8lH 

way VIU 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 


JLiONDON,  in  its  most  extensive  sense,  including 
Westminster  and  the  Borough  of  Soulhwark,  is  one 
of  the  largest  and  most  opulent  cities  in  the  world : 
it  is  about  seven  miles  in  length,  three  miles  in  breadth, 
and  more  than  twenty  miles  in  circumference.  It 
stretches  itself  along  the  river  Thames,  which,  rising 
in  Gloucestershire,  is  here  not  quite  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
in  breadth,  falling  into  the  German  Ocean  at  the  month 
of  the  Medway,  about  forty  miles  below  the  city. 

There  are  five  bridges — London,  Blackfriars,  West« 
minster,  the  Strand  or  Waterloo,  and  Vauxhall ;  and 
another,  viz»  Southwark  Bridge,  is  in  a  state  of  great 
forwardness. 

London  contains  eight  thousand  streets,  lanes,  &ci 
and  five  hundred  phices  of  divine  worship :  one  calhe^ 
dral,  St.  Paul's»  rears  its  swelling  dome  with  peculiar 
mag^nificence,  and  is  seen  from  every  part  of  the  adja* 
cent  country :  one  abbey,  that  of  Westminster,  where 
the  ashes  of  kings  and  heroes,  of  sages  and  legislators, 
philosophers  and  poets,  rest  together,  and  where  the 
sculptured  marble  perpetuates  their  memory  on  a  mass 
of  ornamental  grandeur,  not  to  be  equalled  in  any 
metropolis  in  the  world. 

Besides  churches,  chapels,  and  meeting-houses  for 
all  denominations,  here  are  six  Jewish  Synagogues,  and 
between  four  and  five  thousand  public  schools,  includ- 
ing inns  of  court,  colleges,  &c.  besides  hospitak  and 
dispensaries,  and  places  of  entertainment  out  of  num- 
her,  the  population  being  generally  reckoned  at  about 


2  WALKS   THEOUGH   LONDON. 

a  million  of  souls !  London  also  contains  two  hundred 
inns,  four  hundred  taverns,  five  hundred  cofiee-houses, 
twelve  hundred  hackney-coaches  and  chariots,  and  one 
hundred  and  thirty  thousand  dwelling-houses. 

The  access  to  every  part  of  this  vast  metropolis  is 
both  safe  and  pleasant,  owing  to  the  regularity  of  the 
pavement,  which  is  no  where  so  carefully  preserved  as 
in.  London,  and  to  the  improved  manner  in  which  the 
whole  is  lighted.  .  If  an  ambassador  from  the  Continent 
imagined  on  seeing  the  old  lamps  that  the  streets  were 
illuminated  by  way  of  compliment  to  his  appearance 
among  them — what  a  contrast  is  now  formed  by  the 
general  introduction  of  gas  lights !  increasing  the  con^ 
veniences,  and  diminishing  the  danger  of  darkness  to 
the  visitors  and  to  the  inhabitants. 

It  may  justly  be  added,  that,  owing  to  the  vigilance 
and  disinterested  exertions  of  Matthew  Wood,  Esq.  the 
present  Lord  iVIayor,  the  City  is  entirely  cleared  of 
common  prostitutes;  and  the  different  officers,  with 
the  watchmen,  compelled  to  do  their  duty  in  such  a 
manner,  that,  according  to  an  official  report,  "  thieves 
DOW  appear  to  be  afraid  of  entering  the  city.'' 

With  these  facilities,  and  with  this  sketch  of  the  grtod 
outline  of  the  Metropolis,  we  shall  now  efideavour  to  go 
into  some  details,  by  proceeding  frotn  the  centre  and 
diverging  towards  the  circumference,  in  such  a  manner 
as  pleasure  and  interest  will  be  most  likdy  to  suggest. 


i»/-/>; --«;<»/  A  if- .  y^/z-.Vir  \-n.i'  S-rmcJ^-i  'j.t^f. 


-r'   7 •      '•  :[. 

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•'•••  '    '>  •  •    •■  ••-'■••    .•:•  '.  ■  -♦"     "\  a  f'  •*•','     . 

•  \   ji.*-,"M.u:-'..-   .11   •  .  .  ,;.►..» 

■  .'   I  in  «'1»'.U'     .  '     \.  I-  I.,  '      ,!•  ,  ,     :   .1.    ... 
*.'■.■:    .  ,  <*.'%,   r..,i. .'.  '.   ,      1 ,  ■.        '    .   r... 

•ht'\  •  .»uM  m   L    ,»'►»!!    ■    '.I. 

A..  -I  (.jp{-i..-...i    :,  :,.  ...J .  .,,1  •'!.  ..  ,.;.  . :. 

•  }d.  *\\   iMi  »jif:,"t  \:.r»  vntfs   ,;.,»  on    ;   «       .t  .      •   i 

■  •.  *^'-^.      I    .    AM.!   it-iMur.'    ••»    ....    -/iv*"? 
.   ■  ji*i;m     .-   ••«"    t.l   w '\rtM^»v  *  .  .•  .1  :».  :     • 

tJt    ■.-.•.    i   M  hi    l.S'.,    s:   -v    ,.'   ui  ('  .   .  -. 
•    •        -'^n*       .;  .:  ..-  or    d:   .     /  ■ 

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*    ..j'f.i  '  ..  it.    .'  '.V  Mi*^  iht^To.r 

».   -iikI    a./    .    .,oi   1:1    I(jtO 
'  »•    t»  tb-*  41  iy  •♦•«Murc,  ami  «.      ; 


.,<'^ 


J 


WALKS  THROUGH   LONDON. 


WALK  I. 


From  the  Royal  Exchanfi,  through  Comkilly  Leadenhatt" 
Street,  Aldgate,  Mifwries,  Tower-Hill  and  its  vici* 
nity;  thence  through  ThameS' Street  to  London-Bridge  ; 
Fish-Street  Hill,  Little  Eastcheap,  Tower-Street,  to 
Orutched  Friars;  Fenchurch-Street,  Gracechurch' 
Street,  back  to  ConhilL 

Of  this  part  of  the  city^  which^  in  more  than  one 
sense,  may  be  called  eminent,  it  has  been  observed, 
"  the  progression  from  rude  to  polished  manners  has 
been  by  no  means  rapid,''  as  only  a  few  centuries  since 
the  front  of  the  Royal  Exchange,  at  present  the  centre 
of  intercourse  among  some  of  the  most  enlightened 
men  in  the  world,  was  the  site  of  a  dungeon,  a  loath- 
some prison,  called,  The  Tun.  The  merchants,  pre- 
TKNis  to  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  met  as  well  as 
they  could  in  Lombard -Street. 

An  inscription  on  the  pump,  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Royal  Exchange,  expresses,  that  on  this  spot  a  well  was 
first  made  by  Henry  Wallis,  Mayor  of  London,  in  the 
year  1S82.  The  well  underneath,  on  which  the  pre- 
sent pump  is  erected,  was  re-discovered  in  1799. 

The.  Royal  Exchange,  situated  in  Comhill,  was  ori- 
ginally built  in  1557,  by  Sir  I'homas  Gresham,  one  of 
the  greatest  merchants  in  this  or  any  other  country, 
a^er  the  model  of  that  at  Antwerp.  Being  destroyed 
by  the  Fire  of  London  in  1666>  it  was  rebuilt  in  its 
present  form  for  the  City  and  the  Company  of  Mercers^ 
as  trustees  for  Sir  Thomas  Gresham,  by  Sir  Christopher 
Wren,  .and  was  opened  in  1609.  There  are  many 
beavties  in  the  architecture,  and  but  few  defects.  The 
four  orders  of  the  quadrangle  are  magnificent,  and  all 
in  correct  proportion  and  arrangement.    The  statues 


4  WALKS  THaOUOR  LONDOK. 

of  Charles  the  First  and  Second  in  the  front  are  beaa- 
tifully  executed ;  and  there  are  also  statues  of  most  of 
the  sovereigns  of  England.  Underneath^  over  the  west 
walkj  are  statues  to  Sir  Thomas  Gresham  and  Sir  John 
Barnard,  as  marks  of  civic  respect. 

The  height  of  the  building  is  56  feet ;  and  from  the 
centre  of  the  south  side  rises  a  lantern,  178  feet  high, 
of  three  gradations,  the  top  displaying  a  vane,  in  the 
form  of  a  grasshopper,  the  crest  of  Sir  Thos.  Gresham. 

The  rooms  over  the  colonades  are  let  out  to  the  Royal 
Exchange  Assurance  Company,  the  office  of  the  Lord 
Mayor's  Court,  Lloyd's  Cofke  House,  and  for  reading 
the  Gresham  lectures.  But  it  should  be  observed  that 
the  merchants  who  frequent  Lloyd's  Coflee  House  are 
of  the  first  consequence, — ^that  the  news  is  the  most  to 
be  credited  that  is  "  up  at  Lloyd's," — and  here  .sub- 
scriptions are  generally  set  on  foot  for  the  greatest  na- 
tional purposes. 

Suffice  it  to  add,  that  the  inside  of  the  area,  144  feet 
long  and  1 17  broad,  is  surrounded  by  piazzas,  forming 
walks  for  the  merchants ;  and  above  the  arches  in  this 
quadrangle  is  an  entablature,  extending  round,  and  a 
compass  pediment,  containing  the  statues  of  several  of 
the  kings  and  queens  of  England,  with  their  names  be- 
neath them.  In  the  centre  of  the  area  is  the  statue  of 
Charles,  the  Second,  in  a  Roman  habit.  This  new 
statue,  by  Bacon,  was  placed  here  in  1793.  The  walls, 
mside  of  the  area,  containing  the  walks,  are  covered 
with  notices  from  different  tradesmen,  and  artists, 
handsomely  written,  framed  or  glazed,  announcing 
their  manufactures,  inventions,  residence,  &c.  for  the 
consideration  of  a  very  moderate  sum  paid  to  the 
beadle. 

CbmAsU— Where  the  Poultry  and  LcAdenhalKStreet 
ends,  ComhUl  commences.  From  the  south  side,  among 
the  turnings  which  branch  ofi^  are  Gracechurch-Street 
at  its  junction  with  Leadenhall-Street,  St  Peter's- Al- 


Inmn  ..nJJkfna-ti  fy  W~Wu:is  -frsi.  H-jAi  ^eu^LU'nd.^n. 


^^ '/'.  V .  yL^'^<i/     .  7./:/// /v-y^^  ^  v:' V 


Aih.'^^!  fy  H^  ZzritA'i%<',^  ■r^>»n^./^fni.t2iTr. 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  9 

ley,  St.  MichaelVAIley^  Ball-Court,  Birchin-Lane, 
Oowper's-Court,  Kings's  Arms-Passage,  and  Pope's 
Head- Alley.  Among  the  public  buildings  on  this  side 
are  the  two  churches  of  St.  Michael  and  St.  Peter,  the 
British  Fire  Office,  and  the  Globe  Insurance  Office. 
On  the  north  side  we  meet  with  the  Imperial  Fire 
Office,  Union  Fire  Office,  Eagle  Fire  Office,  Sun  Fire 
Office,  the  Royal  Exchange,  Bank-Buildings,  Prince V 
Street,  &c.  About  seven  extensive  cofifee-houses  stand 
on  both  sides  of  the  way. 

At  the  junction  of  Comhill  and  the  Poultry,  an  open 
space  l>efor€  the  Mansion-House  is  called,  Mansion 
House-Street ;  but  this  is  generally  included  in  the 
street  called  the  Poultry. 

Sweeting's-Alley,  once  covered  by  the  single  dwell* 
ing  of  a  Dutch  merchant  of  the  name  of  Swieten,  is  now 
the  site  of  a  number  of  shops,  exhibiting  brilliant  spect-^ 
mens  of  the  varieties  of  the  arts,  united  with  the  con* 
veniences  of  modem  improvement. 

Leadenhall-Street  commences  according  to  ttie  rota- 
tion of  numbers  at  the  north  end  of  Gracechurch-Street. 
Number  52,  once  Bricklayer's- Hall,  is  now  a  Jew's 
Synagogue ;  46  was  the  house  of  the  late  Mr.  Bentley, 
aliai  Dirty  Dick;  number  33  marks  Mr.  Newman's 
extensive  premises,  called,  the  Minerva  Library.  The 
East  India  Chambers  extend  from  12  to  21. 

The  Eagle  Fire  Office  is  at  the  comer  of  Freeman's- 
Court,  and  a  little  farther  on,  the  Union  Assurance ; 
Coade's  composition  in  stone,  embellishes  the  front  of 
the  latter,  in  which  the  muscular  strength  of  Hercules 
is  expressed  with  much  boldness. 

Nearly  opposite  is  Birchio-Lane,  in  which  is  the 
London  Assurance  Corporation.  Exchange- Alley  con- 
Uined  the  house  of  Alderman  Backwell  in  the  reign  of 
James  the  Second :  here  are  Garraway's  and  Bdkcr's 
Coflfee  Houses  ;  much  of  the  business  of  the  former 
has  been  transferred  to  the  New  Auction  Mart. 


6  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

At  a  short  distance  is  Si.  MkkaePs,  ComhiU.  The 
t6wer»  in  the  ancient  style,  is  a  fine  specimen  of  Sir 
Christopher  Wren's  genius;  and  the  best  view  of  it  is 
from  the  south-east  part  of  St.  Michael's- Alley.  Here 
is  a  good  organ,  and  an  excellent  peal  of  twelve  bells. 

A  little  farther  on  is  St.  Peter's,  rebuilt  by  Sir  Chris- 
topher Wren,  who  has  considerably  ornamented  the 
interior  with  a  handsome  screen  and  other  embellish- 
ments. One  of  the  most  remarkable  monuments  here 
is  that  to  the  memory  of  Mr.  Woodmason's  seven  chil- 
dren, all  destroyed  by  fire,  with  his  house  in  Leaden- 
hall-Street,  in  January,  1782. 

The  East  India  House,  the  most  prominent  and  im- 
posing edifice  in  Leadenhall-Street,  is  distinguished  by 
a  stately  entrance,  beneath  a  portico  of  six  fluted  Ionic 
columns,  supporting  a  frieze,  and  two  wings  surmounted 
by  a  balustrade.  The  tympanum,  in  the  oeatre,  con- 
tains several  figures,  the  principal  of  them  representing 
his  Majesty,  George  the  Third,  leaning  on  his  swon)  in 
his  left  hand,  and  extending  the  shield  of  protection 
over  Britannia,  who  embraces  liberty.  On  oneside^ 
Mercury,  attended  by  Navigation,  and  followedby 
Tritons  and  sea-horses  as  emblems  of  commerce,  intro- 
duces Asia  to  Britannia,  before  whom  she  spreads  her 
productions.  Order,  accompanied  by  Rehgion  and 
Justice,  appears  on  the  other  side,  and  behind  them 
the  city  barge,  with  other  attributes  of  the  metropolis  ; 
near  which  are  Integrity  and  Industry.  In  the  western 
angle  is  a  representation  of  the  Thames,  and  in  the 
eastern,  that  of  the  Ganges.  Above  the  pediment  is  a 
fine  statue  of  Britannia,  with  a  spear  in  her  left  hand, 
and  the  cap  of  liberty  upon  it :  Asia  sits  upon  a  camel 
in  the  east  corner,  and  Europe  upon  a  horse  in  the 
west. 

The  interior  of  this  vast  edifice,  which  extends'nearly 
the  length  of  Lime-Street,  contains  Tke  grand  Court 
Room,  the  principal  ornament  of  which  is  the  fine  de- 


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WALKS   TflROUCHr  tOMDOK. 

f 


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♦.  i'l)  .r-.       '  . 

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*-^H-  ♦« ,.       ^^,,^ 


WALIU  TBSOUGH  lOffDOH.  7 

Btgn,  in  boft  relief,  of  Britannia  seated  <m  a  globe,  oo  a 
rock  by  the  sea-dK>re,  loc^ng  towards  ihe  east ;  ber 
rigbt  hand  leaning  on  an  onion  shield,  her  left  holding 
a  trident,  and  her  head  decorated  by  a  naval  cromi. 
Bdiind  ber,  two  boys ;  one  leaning  on  a  comncopia, 
the    other    diverting  himself  amoi^   flowing  ricbea. 
Female  figures,  emblematic  of  India,  Asia,  and  Africa, 
presenting  the  different  prodnctions  of  their  climes : 
Thames,  with  his  head  crowned  with  rushes,  fills  up  the 
groupe.     The  pictures  in  this  room  are  views  of  Fort 
St.  George,  Bombay,  St.  Helena,  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
Fort  William,  and  Telhchery.— CbaMit^lee  Room.    An 
excellent  painting  of  General   Lawrence. — Old  StUc 
Boom.    Marble  statues  of  Lord  Clive,  Sir  George  Po- 
4xiGke,  and  Major-General  Lawrence,  in  Roman  haMts, 
dated  1764;  Sir  Eyre  Coote  in  regimentals. — CommiUee 
<tf  CorretpomipKe  Room.    Pbrtraits  of  Marquis  Com- 
wallis,  Warren  Hastings,  Esq.  the  famous  Nabob  of 
Arcot,  and  another  Nabob ;  views,  by  Ward,  of  various 
specimens  of  Indian  architecture,  vine  of  Trichinopoly, 
Viri.  Malli  rock,  Bramins'  Bath  at  Chillimbrum,  east 
Tiew  of  Madura,  Tippy  Colam,  Tanks  and  the  Mauso* 
leum  of  the  Seer  Shaw,  Choultry  of  Seringham,  south 
entrance  to  the  pagoda  at  that  place,  and  various  views 
of  Choultries. — New  Sak  Room  contains  several  paint* 
ings  illustrativeof  India,  and  othercommereial  attributes. 
— Idhraiy.    A  very  considerable  collection  of  interest^ 
ing  and  curious  Indian  literature.    In  circular  recesses^ 
at  the  east  end  of  this  library,  are  busts  of  the  late 
Warren  Hastings,  and  Mr.  Orme  the  bistman.    Every 
book  ktiown  to  have  been  published  in  any  language 
whatever,  relative  to  the  history,  laws,  or  jurisprudence 
of  Asia  is  to  be  found  here,  besides  an  unparalleled  col- 
lection of  manuscripts  in  all   the  Oriental  languages, 
and  among  them  Tippoo  Saib's  copy  oi  the  Koran. 
Here  are  also  several  volumes  of  Indian  plants,  and  other 
representations  of  the  sorts,  manners,  and  costume  of 


8  WALKS  THEOU6H   LONDON. 

the  Orientals,  besides  the  |Mrinted  books  of  the  Chinese. 
^~The  Museum  contains  the  Babylonian  inscription*, 
written  in  what  is  called  the  naiUheaded  character  upon 
bricks  supposed  to  have  been  the  facings  of  a  wall 
strongly  cemented  together  by  bitumen.  A  fragment 
of  jasper^  upwards  of  two  feet  in  length,  is  also  to  be 
seen  here,  entirely  covered  with  inscribed  characters- 
Here  are  likewise  the  trophies  and  the  mantle  of  Tippoo 
Saib ;  and,  in  fact,  such  a  diversity  of  rare  and  curious 
articles,  as  to  render  this  Museum  inferior  to  none  in 
the  display  of  Oriental  rarities.  The  whole  is  to  be 
seen  for  a  small  gratuity  to  some  of  the  officers,  court 
days,  &c.  excepted. 

Si.  Andrew,  Undershqft. — This  Church  in  St.  Mary 
Axe,  is  nearly  opposite  to  Lime*Streety  and  was  so  called 
from  a  shall  or  may-pole  formerly  erected  here  higher 
than  the  steeple.  The  interior  is  b«intifully  supported  by 
slender  pillars ;  the  roof  finely  painted.  The  east  win- 
dow, of  stained  glass,  represents  whole-length  portraits 
of  Edward  the  Sixth,  Queen  Elizabeth,  James  the 
First,  and  Charles  the  First  and  Second ;  and  in  the 
otlier  windows  are  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  founders 
and  benefactors  of  the  church.  The  monuments  most 
remarkable  are  those  of  Stow,  the  antiquary,  who  died 
in  1605,  Lord  Craven,  &c. :  the  latter  resided  at  the 
Old  East  India-House,  which  one  of  his  descendants 
disposed  of  to  the  Company  in  1726. 

Passing  the  vast  pile  of  buildings  belonging  to  the 
East  India  Company,  denominated  The  Coasi  Ware- 
lumse,  no  object  of  importance  or  information  occurs 
except  the  house^  formerly  occupied  by  the  African 
Company,  near  Billiter-Lane,  anciently  part  of  the 
priory  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  and  bestowed  by  Henry 
the  Eighth  on  Mrs.  Cornwallis  and  her  heirs,  because 
she  presented  to  that  monarch  wome  fine  puddings  l 
The  house  was  afterwards  the  residence  of  Sir  Nichdaa 
Throgmorton,  one  of  Queen  Elizabeth's  favourite  mi* 


WAL&S   THBODCfl   I.OHDON.  9 

nisten,  who  u  nipposed  to  bave  been  poisoDcd  by 
Dudley,  Earl  of  Leicester,  on  that  account,  after  eat- 
ing a  saUad. 

SuCaiherine'sCreeon  the  other  side  isaGothic  butid- 
ing  about  90  feet  in  length,  and  in  breadth  51,  and  wag 
last  repaired  and  beautified  in  1805. — The  superstitious 
consecration  of  this  church  by  bishop,  (afterwards  arch- 
bishop) Laud,  on  January  16;,  1630-31,  so  excited  the 
rage  of  the  discontented  sectaries  at  that  period,  that  it 
was  one  of  the  means  which  brought  the  imprudent, 
though  well-meaning  prelate  to  the  block.  The  church 
is  handsome  in  the  inside,  and  has  a  fioe  organ. 
Among  the  monuments  is  that  of  Sir  Nicholas  Throg^ 
morton ;  Hans  Holbein  was  also  buried  here. 

Bilhter-Lane,  Pennant  tells  us,  was,  in  the  reign  of 
Henry  the  Eighths  inhabited  by  a  set  of  such  impudent 
b^gars,  that  it  was  found  necessary  to  stop  up  the 
thoroughfare.  Here  is  now  the  Private  Trade  Ware-* 
house  of  the  East  India  Company,  for  housing  goods 
brought  from  the  Indies  by  individuals,  till  they  are 
sold  at  the  India^Hoose. 

St.  Mary  Axe  was  so  called  from  its  situation  near 
the  Axe  Inn.  Since  Queen  Elizabeth's  time,  it  has 
been  united  to  the  parish  of  St.  Andrew* 

The  street  called  St.  Mary  Axe  is  now.  mudi  the 
resort  of  Jew-Crimps,  .&c.  whose  principal  depreda- 
tions are  committed  upon  the  sailors  when  attending 
the  India-House. 

LcadcnUall  Market, — The  ancient  fabric  of  Leaden- 
hall  had  one  side  pf  it  standing  in  the  stneet  a  few  yeara 
since :  it  was  a  manor-house  in  the  possession  of  many 
noble  families,  till  completed  as  a  granary  by  Sir  Simon 
Eyre^  in  the  reign  <^  Henry,  the  SixUi*  In  Stow's 
time,  Leadenhall  became  a  market  ;.b«it  it  is  now  of 
more  consideration  than  -ever;  as  here  are.  properly 
three  or  lour  markets  for  leather,  pouluy,  beef,  herh^ 
&c.    That  part  now  called  the  Gieen-Yard  was  a  part 


10  WALKS  THEOUGH  LOKDOIC. 

of  the  garden  when  tbe  Nevilles  resided  here ;  and  in 
fiam  Alley  were  Ihe  remains  of  the  ancient  collegiate 
chapel,  founded  by  Sir  Simon  Eyre  in  141 9,  whi^ 
bad  the  following  motto  over.tbe  door<-*''  DexiraDo^ 
mini  exaliant  me/'*— A  part  of  Leadenhall  Market  was 
rebuilt  in  1730,  and  has  an  opening  into  Lime*Street« 
In.  1814,  considerable  alterations  were  made  in  the 
leather*market,  and  the  whole  is  now  rebuilding. 

Under  the  house  of  Messrs*  Tipper-and  Fry,  No«  7l> 
the  remains  of  the  beautiful  little  chapel  of  St  Michael 
are  still  to  be  seen,  as  discovered  in  1789,  built  by  Priof 
Norman,  in  1189:  the  arches  are  very  elegant,  sup* 
ported  by  ribs  which  converge  «id  jneet  on  the  capi- 
tals of  the  pillars,  now  nearly  buried  in  the  earth,  which> 
since  its  foundation,  has  been  raised  twenty*six  fieet. 
This  house  is  built  on  the  site  of  that  occupied  by  the 
celebrated  antiquary,  Stow,  and  where,  to  the  disgrace 
of  his  agei  he  died  comparatively  poor  at  eighty ! — ' 
The  avenues  branching  from  the  south  side  of  this  street 
are  Black  Raven  Court,  Hartshorn  Court,  Hand  and 
Pen  Court,  Sugar  Loaf  Court,  BilUter-Lanei  Lime* 
Street,  and  Gracechurch-Street :  on  the  north  side, 
are  Smith's  Buildings,  Cree  Church-Lane,  Broker's 
Gardens,  St  Mary  Axe,  Shaft's  Qpurt,  and  Bishops* 
gate^Street. - 

Turning  from  the  right  round  the  eastern  angle  of 
l4ead6nhaU«Strcet  into  Fenehurch'^Street,  the  eye  is 
struck  by  an  immense  pile  of  building,  the  repository 
lor  drugs,,  belonging  to  the  East  India  Company.  On 
this  spot  formerly  stood  the  residence  of  the  prior  ot 
Havering  Church,  to  which  was  nearly  attached  the 
town  residence  of  Henry  Percy,  Earl  of  Northumber^ 
land^  and  his  son,  who  lost  their  lives  in  the  wars  be- 
tween the  houses  of  York  and  Lancaster.  The  ground 
was  afterwards  converted  into  bowUng  alleys,  and  was 
also  occupied  by  a  number  of  small  houses  and  gar- 
dena  before  the  Fire  of  London. 


T'lF.  Krv.'  YORK 
'UBUC  LIBRARY 


WAt.Kft  TBIOUGR  LONlMlt.  11 

Fenclinrch-Street  is  a  good  ttKct,  widi  one  cndiiMfr 
Mark-Lane,  and  the  other  terminating  in  Graceehoreh- 
Street;  focuerly  adirty  hrook  rm  through  the  groand 
tm  whidi  this  street  stands.    The  East  India  ware- 
houses here  are  very  extensive.    Nortiramberland  M^- 
fcy  just  by  maila  the  site  on  which  the  Percys  onee 
dwdt.      Further   on,  in  Magpie  ADey,   stands  the 
Church  of  St.  Catherine  Coleman;  fonneriy  a  haw 
or  garden*  called  Coleman  Haw.    The  Church,  though 
H  escaped  the  Fire  d  London,  was  obliged  to  be  taken 
down  and  rebuilt  in  1734:  it  is  a  plain  neat  building, 
hot  has  no  monuments  of  consequence.    One  side  of 
this  diurcfa  is  distinguished  by  an  ale-house,  and  the 
other  by  a  synagogue. 

St  Bennet,  Gracecbnrch,  stands  at  the  corner  of 
Fencharch-Slreet  and  Graoechurch*6treet.  The  ori* 
ginal  ancient  edifice  was  consumed  in  1666,  and  r^huHt 
in  16B5 :  four  or  fife  ardied  windows,  and  as  many 
circular  ones,  enlighten  the  nave:  balustrades  adom 
the  body,  and  the  square  tower  terminates  with  a 
cupola — at  the  summit  of  whidi  there  is  another  short 
tower  formed  of  quadrangular  prqjectniKBls,  and  over 
them  a  conical  sjMre,  with  a  ball  and  Tane.  The 
sitar-pieee  and  the  font  are  curiously  ornamented. 

Betnming  to  the  eastward,  nearly  opposite  the  India 
iraidiottses,  we  find  in  Lime-Stieet  the  parish  drarA 
iA  Si.  Di4mi^  Back  Omtek,  sO  called  on  ncooont  of  ^ 
situation  :  it  it  a  strong  stoneand  bride  hoiMing.  In- 
gram  Court  denres  its  name  fiom  Sir  Thotnas  Ingram, 
a  cdebrated  merchant,  whose  house  Iras  here. 

.firmuRoii^ers*  IfolT. — Pnoeeding  along  Fenehurch* 
Street,  on  the  north  side,  we  find  tiib  stately  modem 
edifice,  raised,  in  1748,  upon  the  ttte  of  three  or  fear 
halls,  that  had  piPeceded  it.  The  firdnt  is  of  Fbrtland 
stone,  and  the  architecture  is  elegant;  the  hmerior 
buildings  are  chiefly  of  bride  The  basement  story  i» 
in  rustic,  and  has  in  the  cenUe  a  large  aidied  dooT'Way, 


13  WALR8   THROUGH   LONDON. 

with  a  window  on  each  side;  in  each  of  the  retiring^ 
wings  are  two  other  windows.  Four  pilasters  of  the 
Ionic  order,  in  the  front,  support  a  corresponding  en* 
tablature  and  pediment.  In  the  largest  and  most  cen- 
tral intercolumniation  over  the  entrance  is  a  spacious 
Venetian  window,  and  above  it  a  circular  one  within 
an  arch ;  the  spaces  between  the  outer  pilasters  con- 
tain smaller  windows  with  angular  pediments.  In  the 
tympanum  of  the  pediment  are  the  company's  arms, 
having,  instead  of  supporters,  a  large  cornucopia  on  each 
side,  in  bold  relievo,  pouring  out  fruits  and  flowers : 
the  whole  building  is  terminated  by  a  neat  balustrade, 
crowned  with  vases.  The  vestibule  is  spacious  and  di- 
vided into  avenues  by  six  columns  of  the  Tuscan  order. 
The  rooms,  particularly  the  court-room  and  state-room, 
are  magnificent  and  richly  decorated,  containing  seve- 
ral portraits  of  good  and  worthy  benefactors,  &c. 

Here  is  also  the  hall  belonging  to  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  or  Denmark- House,  in  which  was  lodged 
the  first  ambassador  sent  here,  says  HoUinshed,  "  from 
the  Emperor  of  Cathaie,  Muscovia,  and  Russeland." 
The  Russian  Company  was  formed  three  years  before 
this  ambassador's  arrival ;  but  afterwards,  when  Russia 
was  acquainted  with  our  wealth  and  power,  the  com- 
merce was  redoubled  between  the  two  nations. — In  the 
)iall  of  Hudson's  Bay  House  used  to  be  a  vast  pair  of 
the  Mooae  I>eers'  horns«  weighing  fifty-six  pounds; 
aiso  the  picture  of  an  Elk,  the  European  Morse,  killed 
in  the  presence  of  Charles  the  Eleventh  of  Sweden. 

Aldgau  and  the  iKf»iior»c«.-^Returning  eastward  to- 
i^ards  Houndsditch  and  Whitechapel-Road,  we  come 
to  the  spot  where  Aldgate  stood  across  the  stj;eet,  till 
1768.  Nearly  opposite  to  Aldgate  Church  is  the  street 
called  the  Miaorie^i  from  certain  Nuns  of  the  Order  of 
$t*  Clare  pr  ilfinorcMes,  who  had  a  convent  founded 
for  them  bere»  in.  1293,  by  Blanch,  Queen  of  Navarre^ 
the  wife  of  Edmund,  Earl  of  Lancaster.    This  street^ 


WALKS  THROUGH   LONDON.  IS 

fhongh  not  many  years  since  a  very  mean  neigbbour- 
hood«  now  contains  a  number  of  good  tradesmens'  houses, 
particularly  gun-smiths,  clothiers,  &c.  The  west  side 
has  been  entirely  rebuilt,  and  several  new  streets  lead- 
ing from  it  into  Crutcbed  Friars.  Here  are  Ame- 
rica-Square, the  Crescent,  and  the  Circus,  composed  of 
excellent  bouses,  the  site  of  which,  since  Stow's  time, 
was  occupied  by  dunghills,  out-bouses,  gardens,  and 
carpenters'  yards,  bordering  upon  the  filthy  and  dange* 
rous  ditch,  a  continuation  of  that  which  washed  the 
city  walls  about  Houndsditch^  and  emptied  itself  into 
the  Thames. 

On  the  east  side  of  this  street  we  see  the  little  church 
of  St  James,  rebuilt  in  1706,  of  brick,  being  about 
sixty-three  feet  in  length,  and  twenty-four  in  breadth ; 
and,  excepting  a  small  turret,  is  void  of  ornament.  It 
nevertheless  contains  some  remarkable  monuments. 

Goodman's  Fields,  or  a  number  of  spacious  streets 
bearing  that  name,  are  a  little  to  the  east  of  the  Mino- 
ries,  passing  through  Haydon-Square.  Stow  remem- 
bered, in  these  fields,  a  farm  belonging  to  the  Mino- 
resses,  and  mentioned  his  having  fetched,  when  a  boy, 
many  a  hdf-penny  worth  of  milk,  never  having  less 
than  three  ale-pints  for  bis  money  in  the  summer, 
nor  one  ale-quart  in  the  winter,  always  hot  from  the 
kine.  Many  opulent  Jews  occupy  the  large  houses  in 
the  handsome  streets  hereabouts ;  and  Little  Alie-Street 
contains  a  German  Lutheran  Chapel,  where  Br.  Wach« 
sel  was  the  officiating  minister  many  years.  It  was  in 
a  theatre  in  this  neighbourhood,  where  Garrick,  in 
October,  1741,  fint  displayed  his  inimitable  powers ; 
and  during  the  short  time  he  performed  here,  aU  this 
streets  in  a  line  from  Whitechapel  to  Temple  Bar  were 
filled  with  the  carriages  of  ihe  nobility  and  gentry. 

Rosemary-Lane,  or  Rag  Fotr.-^TIiis  place,  at  the 
south  extremity  of  the  Minories^  turning  to  the  lefE 
tiaod,  and  which  once  maintained  a  boated  celdirity 


14  WAtKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

for  the  ttk  of  old  clothes,  has  wonderfully  faUen  off 
since  a  certain  description  of  Israelites  have  dispersed 
aid  ^read  themselves  about  the  most  public  avenues, 
even  at  the  west-end  of  the  town.  On  this  account^ 
Mt'  Pennant's  report  of  a  man  being  clothed  here  for 
fMirtcen^penee,  has  no  kmger  the  least  foundation.  The 
bouses  in  RosenaryoLane,  and  a  part  of  the  Minories> 
are  mostly  occupied  by  wholesale  dealers  in  second- 
hand clotbesi  who  export  them  to  our  colonies  and  to 
South  America^  .  Iixtbe  Exchanges,  or  covered. build- 
ings heroji  left  off.things,  &c.  are  still  sold  at  very  consi- 
derable prices;  and  it  is  only  in  the  middle  of  the 
atceet,  ai  a  certain  time  in  the  afternoon,  that  the  meet 
inferior  articles  of  dress  are  vended  by  Jews. and  others 
to  the  poor  and  labouring  dasses ;  but  at  nothing  like 
the  pricea  mentioned  by  Mr.  Pennant.  At  thb  time 
the  trading  exclamations  of  breeches  Folks,  Shoe  Folks, 
Breaking  TaylQrs,^.&c.  may  be  heaid  indiscriminately 
from  a  number  of  men  and  women,  who  attend  regu* 
lariy*  .... 

.inW  Nttw  JftfM.^*r«Neari  the  west  end  of  Rosemary* 
laane  is  King-Street,  leading  to  the  New  Mint,  erected 
on  the  <site  of  the  Victualling,  OiSce,  before  it  was  re« 
moved  to  Oeptford.  The,  present  structure  is  from  a 
design 'Of  Mr,  SmirkCj  ^Junior,  for  the  various  purposes 
of  eoinage^and  ia  upon  an  extensive  plan,  as  it  contains 
every  department  necessary  for  the  di£fei*ent  operations 
ia  Qoining,  and  residences  for  the  .principal  officers. 
Ihe  building  is  composed  of  ailong  stone  front,^  con« 
sisting.of  l^ree  slorjes,  surmounted  by  a  handsome 
baluatrade..  The. wings. are  decorated  with  pilasters; 
the  centre  with.demi^columnsr  <u>d  a  pediment  oma- 
nettted  with  the  arms  of  the  United  Kingdoma.  Over 
the  pofoh  is*  a  gallery,  bahi8trades,i&o.  of  the  Doric 
order.  A-  fire  which  hrokt  out  here  in  the  summer  of 
I815;did  considerable  daraage  in  theinterior^  but  hap* 
pily  did  not  ii^ure  theappearance  of  this  beautifoledifice. 


I 


1  '•*  *-  1 


WALKS  TB«OUGH  LONDOK.  15 

By  way  of  contratt,  it  may  be  obierved  that  on  this 
qMtoiice  stood  Eur  ilftiifter,  or  the  abbey  of  St.  Mary 
of  the  Graces^  founded  by  Edward  the  Third  in  1349, 
in  consequence  of  a  fright  at  tea,  on  his  return  from 
France,  when  faeTowed  if  he  got  safe  on  shore  he 
woold  found  a  monastery  to  the  honour  of  God  and 
the  Lady  of  Grace,  if  she  would  grant  him  the  grace  of 
coming  on  shore.  Hiis  foundation  was  to  rival  West- 
minster, but  it  did  not  succeed,  though  it  continued 
^  the  dissolution  by  Henry  the  Eighth.  Previously 
to  the  building  of  the  New  Mint,  the  old  Victimlling 
OflBce  here  had  been  converted  into  warehouses*  for 
tobacco. 

A  litde  to  the  southward  of  East  SmithfieM  is  the 
eoliegiate  church  of  St.  Catherine,  once  belonging  to 
the  hospital,  founded  in  1148  by  Matilda  of  BoiHoglie, 
wife  of  King  Stephen;  for  the  maintenance  of  a  master, 
brothers  and  sisters,  and  other  poor  persons. 

The  church,  from  its  tonfined  situation,  cannot  be 
seen  to  great  advantagie,  though  it  is  a  handsome  struc* 
ture ;  and  the  considerable  repairs  which  it  has  under* 
gone  have,  in  a  gMit  d^sgree,  changed  its  antique  ap- 
peaiance.  The  interior,  however,  is  an  object  worthy  the 
mq»ection  of  the  curious  inquirer.  The  body  is  divided 
Intoa  nave,  and  two  side  aisks.  On  entering  the  cfatirCh, 
the  body  of  which,  erclasively  of  the  choir,  is  69  fe6i 
long,  60  broad,  and  90lngh,  and  the  laiige  east  window, 
tnt  from  the  encombrenoe  of  heavy  stonework,  arverts 
the  attention ;  and  theflood  of  Mgbt  thrown  on  every  part 
of  liie  bniidhig  from  this  window,  forms  a  delightAil 
exhibition  seldom  to  be  met  with.  A  handsome  lon^^, 
ia  the  ahcienl  style;  separates  the  body  from  the  dhttir 
of  the  chorch.  The  ancient  seats  in  the  choir  are  very 
handsomely  carved,  and  the  altar-piece  is  of  exqMiite 
workmanship ;  and  it  wouM  not,  perhaps,  be'  too  mach 
y>  my  that  it  is  the  only  tftar  in  what  is  denomfinated 
the  pwe  GcChIc  My le,  in  England,  or  indeed  in  Eorope. 


16  WALKS  THBOUGH  LONDON. 

The  pulpit  is  a  curious  specimen  of  grotesque  carviu^. 
A  most  stately  oi^n,  by  the  late  eminent  maker,  Mr. 
Green,  was  erected  in  1778.  It  is  enclosed  in  a  beauti- 
ful mahogany  case,  with  spiral  and  other  Gothic  carv- 
ing. The  construction  of  the  organ  is,  in  many  re- 
spects, entirely  new.  The  swell,  however,  attracts  the 
attention  of  musical  amateurs :  its  compass  extends 
from  £  in  alt,  a  whole  octave  more  than  has  been  usual, 
and  is  five  notes  lower  than  that  of  St.  Paul's  Cathedral ; 
so  that  this  is  the  largest  swell  in  England.  The  prin- 
cipal monument  is  that  in  the  choir  to  the  memory  of 
John  Holland,  Duke  of  £xeter,  in  the  reigns  of  Henry 
the  Fiflh  and  Sixth.  Within  the  district  are  two 
courts,— a  Spirkual  Courts  from  which  appeals  are 
made  to  the  Lord  Chancellor  of  England  only ;  a  Tem^ 
parol  Court,  in  which  the  High  Steward  of  the  jurisdic- 
tion  presides,  and  takes  cognizance  of  all  disputes  in 
the  precinct,  to  which  belongs  a  disused  prison.  St. 
Catherine's  Liberty  gave  birth  to  Richard  Verstegan, 
the  famous  antiquary,  and  author  of  many  very  curious 
works. 

It  is  well  to  remark  that  what  is  commonly  called  St, 
Catherines,  is  St.  CatherineVLane,  beginning  in  an 
alley,  on  the  south  side  of  East  Smithfield,  and  running 
towards  the  church :  it  is  now  verging  fast  to  a  state  of 
ruin ;  and  is  distinguished,  to  the  disgrace  of  some  ma- 
gistrates, like  many  other  low  parts  of  the  town,  by  the 
number  of  public-houses,  as  well  as  by  the  loose  and 
abandoned  females,  who  associate  with  sailors,  &c.  The 
district  of  St.  Catherines,  however,  extends  to  Iron 
Gate;  containing  St.  Catherine's-Court,  Queen's-Court, 
Three  Sisters'.Close,  Dolphin-Alley,  Brown's-Alley, 
CaU  Hole,  Butcher-Row,  The  Island,  Flemish  Ghuichi 
Hangman's  Gains,  &c. 

Leaving  St.  Catherines,  we  return  to  Little  To^er- 
Hill,  the  usual  place  of  execution  for  state  criminals 
till  the  year  1746,  when  the  last  of  whom  that  auftied 


.-3-J-Vi. 


n-^^ 


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••         -•'01c^'l^  iV'  U.      r*!.-  :  '-i   '   Uf'^f,^  trie  O   \.i*A'A 

/jL-  ii.'yal  Williaio.      I'.,    u  S   i-  *. /iu  «:  <■;    i      .nt     i*. 
.    j'>o  :h.  Cfurt  .•-♦•(  »u.  :ii'  ...  '..-.■.-  ..r  .    .  •  h  t-  r)'..,h'j 

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^/pi..j-Kc  iMiR  Srui'O,   Of   fhc  '  I  1  of  '\j»".l.   )  .'O.  !l;e 

M  n>7  p'  ivok- '1    *»y  the  populate,  r -iiUf^   'm'*  •-•.•-.•: 

T  »...!    h   ^f    \il.iJ     .    .V  ,    Hdiv'     ..      JMi  It    i:,  -.he 

:         ''  ;,  -:     '  h.,.-  r.-.  m(  ^J..  ...    •.  .. 


^:  ji, .  --^Vf^c:/' 


>.-. 


i! 


WALKS  TBBOOGB   LOWDOIT.  17 

here  was  Charles  Ratclifle,  brolber  to  the  Eari  of  Der- 
wentwater,  who  was  beheaded  in  1715. 

Sarage  Gardens,  on  the  north  of  Towcr-Hifl,  lor* 
merly  belonged  to  the  Cnitcbed  Friars.  Henry  iIk 
Eighth  gare  this  ground  to  Sir  Thomas  Wjat;  after* 
wards,  in  the  reign  of  James  the  First,  it  took  its  name 
from  Sir  Thomas  Savage. 

•  Opposite  Postern  Row,  an  ezeeilent  Spring  is  cailei 
the  Postern,  from  being  the  place  where  the  Tower 
Postern  abutted  on  the  city  wall. 

Facing  Great  Towcr-Hiil^  is  the  Trnwly  Hoiue,  a 
beautiful  specimen  of  the  abilities  of  the  late  Samuel 
Wyatl.  It  forms  a  grand  front  of  twatcrics,  opposite 
the  Tower.  The  interior  also  is  equally  beautiful  in 
its  architecture,  and  contains  the  foUowhig  euriositiei : 
— ^tbe  flag  taken  from  the  Spaniards  by  Sir  Francis 
Drake,  in  1588,  and  various  portraits  of  Sir  Francis, 
Sir  John  Leake,  and  other  eminent  men ;  a  large  and 
exact  model  of  a  ship  entirely  rigged  ;  two  very  large 
globes;  and  five  fine  pen  and  ink  drawings  of  naval 
engagements  in  the  reign  of  Charles  the  Second. 

The  SecreUry's  Oflke  contains  a  beautiful  model  of 
the  Royal  William.  The  ball  is  l^t  and  elegant,  as 
is  also  the  court-room,  the  ceiling  of  which  is  finished 
in  a  peculiar  style :  this  room  contains  portraits  of  the 
King  and  Queen,  Lord  Sandwich,  Lord  Howe,  and 
Mr.  Pitt,  besides  four  and  twenty  portraits  of  the  elder 
brethren.  Strangers  may  be  admitted  to  see  die  Tri- 
nity House,  by  giving  the  servants  duOing. 

Oppottte  this  house,  on  the  9th  of  April,  1810,  the 
military,  escorting  Sir  Francis  Bordett  to  the  Tower, 
being  provoked  by  the  populace,  resisted,  and  some 
persons  were  killed  and  woondcd. 

The  dinrch  of  All-Hallows,  Barking,  built  ia  the 
sty le  of  the  modem  Gothic,  stands  at  the  western  atie- 
mity  of  Tower-Hill,  at  the  bottom  of  Marfc-Lane  in 
Tower-Street;  and  is  so  called  from  having  anciently 


IB 


WALIU  'THEOUOH   LOyOOK* 


beloDged  to  the  Abbess  tiod  Convent  of  Barlpng  m 
Essex.  Richard  the  First  founded  a  chapel  on  th^ 
north  side  of  it,  and  bSs  htswrt  is  soppos^  to  have  been 
boried  there.  This  churchy  in  some  measure,  escaped 
the  Fire  of  London,  and  formerly  contained  the  ashe^ 
of  Bishop  Fisher^  and  the  accomplished  Earl  of  ^urireyy 
who  all  fell  by  the  axe  on  Tower-Hill.  They  were  wet 
moved— the  archbishop  to  St.  John's  College^  Oxford ; 
Ihe  bishop  to  the  side  of  Sir  Tbbmas  A^oore,  in  the 
Tower  Chapel;  and  the  Earl  to  Framlingham,  in  Suf- 
folk. This  church  has  recently  undergone  a  complete 
repair.  r ' 


The  Tbttfer:  stands  on  the  celebrated  eminence  galled 
Tower  HilU  ^nd  though  said  to  be  of  very< ancient  daie> 
cannot  be  traced  wUb  any  certainty  b^ypnd  the  time 
of  \yilliam  the  Con^ueror^  who  btiilt  what  is  i^>w  csiUed 
the  White  Tower,  and  enlarged  the  whole,  which. ^ 
pi^esent  covers  twelve  superficial  acres;  its Mfamparta 
are  surrounded  by  a  deep  and  wide, ditch,  proceeding 
north  on  each  side  of  the  fortress  n^rly  in  a.piirailei 
Une,  and  meeting '  in  ^  jeqni^oircqlar  prqjection.  The 
slope  is  faced  with  brick-«rork,  and  the  walls  hare  been 
so  much  nteeded,  that  the  original  stone  is  scarcely  to 


i  TPf.K'EW^lORlf, 


'UfitlC  LIBRARY 


•MTOn.LfNOX 


U&tt  -uAlnJ.'^li^  .  .    ^f 


WALvs  rnwovou  xohdow.        19 

be  seen.   Cannoo  are  placed  at  intervals  round  the  wall, 
thoagfa  the  interior  is  completely  lined  with  old  houses. 

The  principal  entrance  into  the  Tower  is  by  the 
west  gate,  large  enough  to  admit  coaches  and  heavy 
carriages.  This  gateway  itself  is  entered  by  an  outer 
gate,  opening  to  a  strong  stone  bridge  built  over  the 
ditch. 

The  Traitor's^gate  is  a  low  arch  through  the  wall, 
on  the  south  side,  on  which  there  are  several  old  de- 
cayed towers,  intermixed  with  modem  brick  offices 
and  ragged  fragments  of  patched  curtains^ ;  and  this 
gate  communicates,  by  a  canal,  with  the  riv^r  Thames* 

Besides  these,  there  is  an  entrance  for  foot*passenger» 
over  the  draw -bridge  to  the  wharf,  opened  every  mom- 
ing.  The  points  of  a  huge  portcullis  may  still  be  seen 
over  the  arc^  of  the  principal  gate,  and  great  ceremony 
is  used  at  o|^ing  and  shutting  it  night  and  morning. 
This  mass  of  buildings  is  remarkable  on  several  acoounts* 

The  principal  byildings  within  the  Towef-walls  are, 
the  White  Tower  and  the  Chapel  of  St.  John,  where 
the  records  are  lodged  within  the  same ;  the  Church  of 
St  Peter  Ad  Vincula  infra  Turrim,  the  Ordnance  Of* 
fice,  the  Record  Office,  the  Jewel  Office,  the  Horse 
Armoury,  the  Grand  Storehouse,  in  which  is  the  small 
annoury,  end  the  Menagerie.  Here  are  likewise  apart- 
ments for  state-prisonere.  The  White  Tower,  or'iili» 
tenor  fortress,  is  a  large,  square,  irregulaf  buildings 
ahnoit  in  the  centre  of  the  Tower,  consisting  of  three 
lofty  stories,  having,  under  them  comnqodious  vaults  for 
sak-petre,  &e. :  on  the  top,  covered  with  lead,  is  » 
cistern,  or  reservoir,  from  which>  in  case  of  necessity^ 
the  whole  garrison  might  be  supplied  with  water. 
.  The  palace  within  the  Tower  was  in  the  south-east 
angle  of  the  walls,  and  was  used  by  the  Kings  of  Eng-* 
land  nearly  five  hundred  years^  only  ceasing  to  be  so 
on  the  accession  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  who,  after  beiny 
confined  as  a  prisoner  by  Queen  Mary^  had,  probably. 


20  WALKS   THBOUGH    LOMOON. 

no  longing  to  renew  her  residence  in  the  TojU^er.  The 
entrance  to  her  apartment^  called  Cold-Harbour^  is 
given  in  the  annexed  engraving  on  wood. 


*  On  a  long  platform  before  the  Tower,  on  the  Thamea' 
•ide^  61  pieces  of  cannon  used  to  be  planted,  and  fired 
on  rqoieing  days ;  but  these  were  removed  in  18^14, 
tod  those  on  the  ramparts  are  used  in  their  stead. 

After  passing  the  spur-guard,  in  a  spacious  enclosure, 
at  the  right  hand,  is  the  repository  for  wild  beasts,  &c. 
presents  to  the  British  sovereign  from  foreign  poten- 
tates; which  are  shewn  to  the  public  by  the  keepers  for 
a  shilling  each  person;  for  this  fee  the  beholders  are 
informed  of  the  names,  genealogies,  &c.  of  the  difierent 
animals,  which  are  well  worth  seeing,  as  they  are  kept 
remarkably  clean  and  healthy  in  capacious  dens.  It  is 
a*  necessary  caution,  however,  not  to  go  within  the  rails, 
or  to  attempt  to  play  tricks,  as  the  beasts  whelped  in 
the  Tower  are  much  more  fierce  than  those  brought 
over  wild. 

Having  passed  the  bridge,  the  warders  wait  at  the 


WALKS  THROUGH   LONDON.  31 

principal  gate,  to  afibrd  information  to  ttrangen,  and 
to  conduct  them  to  view  the  m&ny .  and  valuable  cu- 
riosities with  which  the  Tower  abounds/  These  are  so 
various,  that  the  minute  description  of  them  would 
furnish  a  volume ;  we  can,  therefore,  only  mention,  that 
the  Jffone  Armowry  contains  the  representations  of  six-* 
teen  ^Eogliah  monarchs  on  horseback,  and  in  complete 
armour.  The  Small  Armoury  contains  complete 
stands  of  arms,  bright,  clear,  and  flinted  for  150,000 
men;  bcaides  cannon,  and  pikes,  swords,  &c.  innu- 
merable, ranged  in  regular  order.  The  Jewel  Office 
contains  the  imperial  crown,  placed  on  the  heads  of 
the  Kings  of  £ngland  at  their  coronation,  the  Prince 
of  Wales's  crown,  golden  spurs  and  bracelets,  the  crown 
jewds,  and  a  great  quantity  of  curious. old  plate.  The 
Ordnance  Office,  burnt  in  1789,  has. been  rebuilt  in  a 
way  so  as  to  prevent  the  recurrence  of  such  an  acci- 
dent. The  Record  Office  is  opposite  the  platform,  but« 
like  the  Ordnance  Office,  is  not  a  place  of  mere  cu- 
riosity, access  being  confined  to  such  penons  as  may 
have  particular  business  to  transact  there. 

The  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Peter  Ad  Vincula,  may 
be  seen  by  applying  to  the  pew-ojpener,  at  any  time, 
for  a  small  fee. 

Returning,  by  Towier  Wharf,  into  Lower  Thames- 
Street,  we  pass  a  spot,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  it, 
on  which  was  formeriy  a  palace  for  the  sovereign 
Princes  of  Wales  when  they  came  to  do  homage  at  the 
Court  of  England,  then  held  in  the  Tower. 

Tke  New  Ckuiom^Home, — In  ancient  times,  the  busi- 
ness of  the  customs  was  transacted  in  a  very  irregular 
manner,  at  Billingsgate ;  but,  in  the  reign  of  Queen 
Elizabeth,  a  building  was  erected  here  for  that  purpose; 
and,  in  the  year  1559,  an  act  having  been  passed  that 
goods  should  be  no-wbere  landed  but  in  such  places  as* 
were  appointed  1^  the  commissioners  of  the  revenue,- 
this  was  the  spot  fixed  uponfbr  the  entries  in  the  port- 
of  London;  and  here  a  Custom-Mouse  was  ordered 4o 


22  WALKS   TtfBOUOH   LONDON. 

be  erected:  it  wm>  iKiwerer,  destroyed  by  fiK,  vilii 
the  rest  of  the  city,  in  1666,  and  rebuilt,  with  additaooi^ 
two  yean  after,  by  Charles  the  Second,  in  a  iniioh  more 
magnificent  and  oommodioas  manner,  at  the  expense  of 
10,000/. ;  but  that  being  also  destroyed  in  the  same 
mtnner,  in  1718^  the  latt  structare  was  erected  ih  its 
place.  This  edifice  was  built  with  brick  and  stone,  and 
was  calculated  to  stand  for  ages :  it  had  undemeafth, 
and  on  each  side,  large  warehouses,  for  the  reception 
of  goods  on  the  paUic  account ;  and  that  side  df  the 
Thames,  for  a  great  extent,  was  lined  with  wfaarfr, 
l|ua^,  and  cranes  for  landing  them.  This  Custom* 
House  was  one  hundred  and  eighty-nine  feet  in  length, 
the  centi^  twenty-seven  ieet  deep»  and  the  wings  con- 
siderably more :  the  centre  stood  back  finom  the  ^ver  ; 
the  Wings  approached  mUch  nearer  to  it ;  and  ^Ihe 
building  was  judiciously  and  handsomely  decorated 
with  the  orders  of  architecture :  under  the  whigs  was 
a  cokmade  of  th^  Tuscan  order,  and  the  upper  itory 
was  ornamented  with  Ionic  columns  and  pediments. 
It  consisted  of  two  floors,  in  the  uppermost  of  which 
was  a  magnificent  room,  fifteen  feet  high,  and  ahnost 
the  whole  length  of  the  building;  this  was  called  the 
Long-Room,  and  here  the  commissioners  of  the  cui« 
toms^  with  their  officers  and  clerks,  transacted  their 
principal  business.  The  inner  part  was  well  disposed, 
and  sufficiently  enlightened ;  and  the  entranceaso  wdl 
contrived,  as  tb  answer  all  the  purposes  of  convenience. 

An  accidental  fire  having  destroyed  the  whole  of  this 
edifice  on  the  19th  of  Fd>ruary,  1814;  the  firA  st«lie 
ef  a  new  Custom- House  had  been  previously  laid  oa 
the  13th  of  October,  1813,  by  the  Earls  of  Liverpool 
and  Chmcarty  and  the  Board  of  Customs,  because  the 
former  building,'  though  so  extensive,  was  still  insuflip 
cieot  for  the  convenient  ^Hirposes  of  conducting  efieo- 
tually  the  cohcems  of  the  vast^extendd  customs  for. 
merehandi2e  in  this  great  empire. 

Indeed  the  oU  bUikUng  had  faeen/  for^a  aeries  of 


WALKS  THSOUOH  LONDON.  93 

years^  found  inadequate  fbr  the  dispatch  of  business  ; 
Hisufiicient  for  the  public,  and  the  officen  of  that  re* 
Tenue;  ^and  in  such  a  decaying  and  dilapidated  condi- 
tion, as  not  to  justify^.tbe  expenditure  of  adding- and 
repairing  tkereto. 

'  It  was  proposed  to  enlarge  the  Long-Room,  and  to 
attach  a  new  wing  at  the  ep^m  extremity;  but  the 
mtermption  to  business  ^hich  this  would  occasionV 
and  the  only  advantage  which  would  have  resulted, 
consisting  of  addftional  space  without  convenience, 
government  rimndoned  the  project,  and  directed  that' 
designft>nd  estimates  should  be  laid  before  the  Board 
of  ^Coatom^  for  an  entire  new  building,  on  a  site  the 
freehold  property  of  the  Crown,  a  portion  of  which  waa 
vacant  ground,  occasioned  by^  a  fire>  which  happened 
in  the  year  1806. 

The  designs  and  estimate  were  finally  approved  by 
the  treasury  in  1811,  and  an  act  passed  for  the  building, 
which  was  contracted  for  at  the  sum  of  I6$,060i.:hj 
public  tender.  Mr.  David  Laing  was  appointed  to  be 
the  architect  on- this  occasion.  Thb  vast  buildtng, 
though  in  a  great  state  of  forwardness,  will  not  be  occu- 
pied by  the  customs  before  the  close  of  the  present 
year,  1816;  the  business  in  the  interval  is  carried  oh  in 
MincingwLane.' 

The  new  arrangement  unites  and  concentrates  many 
branches  of  this  service  which  have  been  heretofore 
detached,  and  the  whole  building  is  fire  proof,  being 
insulated  and  secured  from  a  recurrence  of  the  fatal 
calamity  which  vibited  the  Old  Custom-House. . 
'  The  whole  of  the  interior  and  exterior,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  south  front,  ia  plain,  and  without  any 
decoratkml  The  river  front  has  a  grand  and  im](x>sing 
effiict,  aiid  is  dubncteristic  of  a  hationaroffieial'  edifice; 
the  stone  appears  to  he  excellent  in  quality,and/Of  a  good 
dnifenn  colour.  * 

The  nbmber  of  derk^^  officers,  and  theconcourse  of 


24  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDOH. 

pereoiw,  as  merchants  and  brokers,  who  resort  to  the 
eustomsj  is  not  exceeded  by  any  public  establishment. 

The  whole  extent  of  the  new  fabric  will  constitute  a 
range  of  four  hundred  and  eighty  feet,  by  one  hundred 
feet :  in  the  centre  is  to  be  the  Long-Room,  one  hun- 
dred and  ninety  feet,  by  sixty-seven.  The  whole  is  in- 
tended to  accommodate  six  hundred  and  fifly  clerks  and 
other  officers,  employed  under  the  establishment,  beside 
one  thousand  and  fifty  tide-waiters  and  inferior  ser- 
vants. The  lower  floor  will  consist  of  bond^  vaults^ 
over  which  are  to  be  numerous  store-rooms,  with  apart* 
ments  for  offices,  &c. 

The  south  side  of  Thames-Street,  between  London- 
Bridge  and  Ihe  Tower,  used  to  be  occupied  by  several 
wharfs;  at  present  the  oldandnew  Custom- Houses  nearly 
fill  the  whole  space  from  the  Tower  to  Billingsgate;  to  the 
west  of  this  place,  however,  there  is  Frah  Wkaif,  Cox's 
8iMy,  Botolph  Wharf,  Custom-House  Sluay,  GalUy 
Sttoy,  Chester  Quay,  and  Brewer's  Quay.  The  prero- 
gatives attached  to  these  wharfs  are  such,  that  all  des- 
criptions of  goods,  whether  for  bounty  or  not,  may  be 
shipped  from,  as  well  as  landed  at  them.  To  these  are 
attached  warehouses*  in  which  were  usually  deposited 
large  quantities  of  refined  sugar  for  the  bounty ;  they 
have,  however,  been  deprived  of  much  of  this  property 
by  the  establishment  of  the  docks. 

There  is  also  situated  between  Botolph's  Wharf  and 
Billingsgate  The  East  India  Company s  Wharf,  formerly 
called  Somer's  Quay,  where  all  the  goods  are  shipped 
into  hoys,  for  the  Company's  ships  lying  at  Gravesend 
and  Long  Reach,  for  India.  On  both  banks  of  the 
Thames  are  a  vast  many  Sufferance  Whaifs,  where  nearly 
the  whole  coasting  trade  of  the  kingdom  is  carriedon ; 
these  have  also  the  privilege  of  landing  and  warehous- 
ing foreign  goods,  such  as  hemp,  flax,  iron,  tallow, 
pitch,  tar,  rosin,  turpentine,  &c«  At  what  are  called 
legal  quays,  Custom-House  officers  attend  daily ;  at  the 


PlJBLlCLlBRARt 


r^a^".  * Fr.jnn  t^lhy  ^^'■rvij.'}riheiV^Dis.^rrznu:hLc'tJ4:n 


I  ■'  I  '     I  ■      »»  \»         "t.i  .  .      •  . 

f.i.    ••       .'I  n\      'j  ii»    .     ••  .  . 
til.  •     '       ,  ..  :  r.    ...    ."      inii'    (n  •«•■ 

.•f.Jt    li-.      ...   ■  .        it,.    -\    ,.i    J  (»»».(. tii;.!j.    .1..  • 

N 

Mrh«»'*i^'h    •!•      <.«»♦•     /.ii.       til',   '»  .1  •  x«  .*    \}{M     .' ,  . 
.' -.V-  ir.:!.i     ..j   V  .     •    lit'iii"  rut.  »\j^;j},^. 


.» 


■Mfi^^'lCy.  ^^Rii^^*^ 


WA1.E8  THKOUOB   LONDOH.  25 

cCher  qamjn,  it  is  neeeHarf  to  give  informatioQ  for  an 
officer,  should  he  be  ivaoted. 

The  Coal  Exchange,  situated  in  Thames-Street,  nearly 
opposite  Billingsgate,  is  a  neat  and  very  convenient 
structure,  for  the  use  of  dealers  in  that  article,  and  con- 
sisU  of  a  very  handsoqie  front  and  a  quadrangle  be- 
hind,  where  every  branch  of  the  coal  business  is  tran- 
acted. 

Sr.  I>un9tan*$,  in  the  Eau.^On  the  same  side  of 
Thames-Street,  upon  Su  Dunstan's  Hill,  the  eye  4s  soon 
struck  with  the  modem  Gothic  tower  of  this  church, 
and  which^.  when  seen  to  more  advantage  at  some  dis- 
tance, must  excite  both  complacency  and  surprise, 
as  one  of  the  most  airy  structulres  that  can  be  imagined. 
Tlie  laothom,  which  rises  from  this  tower,  isof  a  singular 
form,  and  the  tower  isdivided  into  three  stages*  terminal* 
ed  at  the  comers  by  four  handsome  pinnacles,  the  spire 
rising  in  the  centre  on  the  narrow  crowns  of  four 
Gothic  arches,  apparently  insufficient  in  strength  to 
support  its  weight  The  walls  of  the  church,  which  is 
eighty -seven  feet  in  length  and  sixty-three  in  breadth, 
are  supported  by  five  Tuscan  pillars  and  two  semi« 
pillars  in  length,  with  plain  arches  and  kej-stones; 
over  theses  on  each  side,  areclerestory  windows,  being 
a  kind  of  Gothic ;  a  large  one,  at  the  east  end,  has  four, 
mullions  and  cinq-foil  arches.  The  altar-piece>  and  the 
whole  of  the  east  end  of  the  church,  is  very  handsome. 
There  are  some  good  monuments  here.  The  tower  of 
this  church  was  certainly  a  bold  attempt  in  architec- 
ture ;  and  there  are  only  two  others  upon  a  similar-plan 
in  Great  Britain — viz.  St.  Giles's  in  Edinburgh,  and 
St.  Nicholas's  at  Newcastle. — ^The  annexed  view  will 
certainly  cpnvey  a  piore  correct  idea  of  this  beautiful 
steeple  than  any  words  alone  can  express. 

Biiliwgtgaiic. — Following  the  line  of  the  New  Custom- 
House,  this  is  now  the  first  opening  to  the  Thames  from 
the  Tower.  '  Besides  being  the.  general  fish-market. 


36  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

Ibis  is  also  a  harbour  for  smdl'vcsseb  loaded  witb  aak, 
oranges^  lemons,  onions,  and  other  commodities.  In 
fthnnifer/also,  the  influx  of  cherries  from  Kent>  &c.  is 
▼erjr  great  Here  too  the  Gravesend  bott^  ply  con- 
stantly with  each  tide  for  passengers:  their  accommoda- 
tions are  considerably  improved,  and  the  fare  isgene** 
rtdly  raised  from  Is.  to  Is.  6d.  each  person* 

The  scandalous  abuses  in  ibis  market  have  been 
repeatedly  noticed  by  the  present  Lord  Mayor,  M. 
Wood,  Esq.  A  petition  on  the  subject  of  maJcing  an 
aitdtatidn  here  a  few  months  ago,  it  seems,  was  not 
presrtAed  to  the  Committee  of  City  Lands,  because 
the  customary  ftM  had  not  been  paid  by  the  petkiomtn, 
which  caused  the  Chief  Magistrate  to  remark  in  the 
Common  Cooncil>  '^that  had  that  tiot  been  mentioned, 
it  was  his  intention  to  hate  lirought  the  sulgect  of  the 
Flih-market  under  the  consideration  of  the  Court.  A 
lofefig  time  ago,  a  Bill  had  passed  to  prevent  regrating 
or  retailing  fish  in  the  market.  A  second  Bill  had 
been  carried,  by*  which  persons  were  allowed,  under 
the-sanbttOn  of  the  Court,  to  reUil  fish.  By  that  Act, 
the  Court  Was  to  fix  the  hour  at  which  retailing  was  to 
be  permitted  t  but,  from  that  time  to  the  pvesent,  the 
Cobrt,  he  hdieved,  had  never  interfered,  by  which 
mefths  ikiuch  mischief  was  done  to  the  public;  partlcu^ 
lariyby  ilbody  of 'persons  in  the  market,  who  were 
denomiT^ted  himere%$i  If  the  Court  performed  the 
dtft^  whicfh  devolved  on  them  under  the  Act,  it  would 
be' highly  beneficiar  to  the  inhabitenu  of  the  Metro- 
polis. '  If  nine  or  ten  6'clock  in  the  morning  was  fixed 
fbrTeUiiling  fish;  it  woilld  be-very  useful  to  many  per- 
sons. The  dday  of  the  Betitioir  uDudcd  to,  was  a  proof 
of  the  ill  efiiK^ts  of  selling  offices  connected  with  the 
Corporation.  No  business  ^oouHi  be  done  without  the 
pigment  of  those  feii»^a  Petilioii  could  not  g6  before  a 
Committee,  wHfaout-'ii  <:onsidifctabie  dday  ihcohse- 
quehce.    If  atir  cAioer  iliras  to  be  thus  r^uneittoi,  for 


WALO  TBBOVOS  lOHDOlii  97 


the  pmch>wi  money  of'bM  pbce,  k  would  be  sock 
better  to  buy  him  out «  oooe." 

DmrkkomBt  Lame,  the  tanuuf^  imnieifiUdy  johnng 
BiBuigsgote  t6  tbe  wcil,  coutaim  a  number  of  piiUie 
houacjj  used  by  wateimen,  iBbennen,  ftmde^  and 
oihen :  here,  ftt>m  the  confined  ritoation,  candles  are 
neeevary  all  day,  particulariy  m  winler.  Ai  some  of 
these  housci  are  open  all  night,  to  aeeommodate  penons 
waiting  for  the  Gravesend  boati^  beds  may  be  bad  for 
M,  whether  really  going  to  Graraend,  or  only  pidctid*- 
11^  so  to  do.  Strangers  who  act  prudently  will  atrold 
the  mixed  company  in  a  place  like  this,  mpfeially 
such  as  wWi  to  escape  tbe  ftngs  of  those  called  kid^ 
aapffrv  or  Eart  India  crimps. 

Nbl  ftr  from  diis  plaoe,  on  the  oAer  side  of  Thames* 
Steeel,  is  Hst;p*£aiie,  remarkiMe  for  nothing  ai  pit^ 
sent,  czoepthig  Bskers*  Hall,  the  dMng-room  ^ 
which  k  decorated  with  a  paintidg  of  Jmuke,  wiAiier 
attributes,  the  arms  of  the  Company,  and  tberepre* 
sentatioih  of  their  patron',  Su  Clement  HarpiLsne, 
howerer,  fonneriy  contained  tbe  house  of  Jdin  Chlche^ 
toy.  Chamberlain  of  London,  and  nephew  to  the  Areh- 
b4hop  el  that  naikie,  who  had  t«renty-lbtar  cMUran, 
tnd  ^ve  thU  house  to  otie  of  hisdaugbtem,  as^pafft  of 
hfeif  portion. 

On  SL  Mary's  HiM  stands  Watermai^s  ITttHf,  «  sifall 
but  convenient  building  for  transacting  th^  osnoems  of 
that  conqiany,  Mrtb  are  under  tbe  conti^  of  the  LoAl 
Mayor  and  court  of  Aldtonto.  By  ah  act  of  ¥llHla* 
ment.  In  the  reign  of  William  the  Thifd,  it  is  protldod 
<*  lliat  should  the  Lord  Hij^  Admiral,  or  the  ComtaAs* 
sioiiert  of  the  Admiitdty,'at  anytime  gire'  notice  to  the' 
Wat^mken's  Gompaiiy,that  there  is  occasion  fors^c^r* 
tarn  huittbef  of  that  fraternity  to  serf  e  in  the  Royal 
Kafy;ttia^lrfl  iikfaperMttS'la  sbdl  be  dtiljhsumnioned' 
md  dd  tiot  ift^ear,  diall  not  oblyai&flcar  one  math's 
iHpHMbdUfftt.  but  be  ^tendered  ineipable  of  tA)o5ing 


5n  WALKS  THBOUOH  LONDON* 

any  pri? ilege  belonging  to  the  company  for  two  yean." 
Adjoining  is  Fellowship  Porters'  HalL  The  Porten 
belonging  to  the  metropolis  are  thus  classed^ — Compa- 
nies' Porters,  Fellowship  Porters,  Ticket  Porters,  and 
Tackle  Porters,  under  different  regulations*  The  pa* 
rish  churches  of  St.  Mary-at-Hill  and  St.  George,  Bon 
tolph  Lane,  ace  both  neat  fabrics,  especially  the  latter, 
which  is  in  the  most  chaste  Grecian  style. 

Proceeding  up  Thames-Street,  the  next  object  of  at- 
tention is  the. parish  church  of  St.  Magnus,  London 
Bridge,  a  very  handsome  edifice,  built  by  Sir  Christo^ 
pher  Wren  in  1676;  though  the  elegant  steeple,  which 
GOBtams  ten  bells,  was  not  finished  till  1705.  Within 
the  church  is  a  very  good  organ.  The  whole  structure 
is  elegant. without  being  gaudy.  When  Sir  Christo- 
pher erected  it,  he  was  obliged  to  project  it  over  the 
footway,  in  which  state  it  stood  till  **  an  accidental  fire 
on  LondoQ  Bridge,  in  1759,  having  damaged  the  church, 
an  impiovement  was  suggested  to  form  a  footpath,  at 
the  same  time  that  the  parish  were  unwilling  to  take 
down  the  beautiful  steeple.  A  surv^eyor  was  employed, 
who  had  the  ingenui^  to  discover  that  Sir  Christopher, 
conceiving  that  such  a  convenience  must  at  some  future 
period  be  rendered  necessary,  had  contrived  the  arch, 
on  which  the  steeple  stood,  of  such  strength,  that  it 
required. only  to  clear  away  the  intermediate,  part  of 
the  building  to  render  the  improvement  efiectud.  Hiis 
was  done ;  and  St  Magnus's  steeple  and.  porch  exhibit 
another  instance  of  the.  vast  abilities  of  the  great  re* 
storer  of  London.'' 

London  Bridge* — Without  a  long  detail  of  extensive 
historic  documents  relating  to  this  bridge,  suffice  it  to 
say,  diat  the  original  passage  over  the  River  Thames 
was  by  a. ferry;  that  William,  of  Malmsbury,  men- 
tions a  bridge  as  early  as  the  year  994 ;  and  that  the 
wooden  bridge  stood  opposite  Botolph's  Wharf^  till 
Peter,  of  Colechurcb,  in   1176,  first  began  a  stone 


}t  uVt. 


^  Tl'r  NEW  YORK^ 
tDBLlCLIBRART^ 


'ArroR.LBNeK 


WALKS  tHftOUOR   LONDOV.  29 

bridge,  which  was  thirty-three  yearg  ere  it  was  finished. 
Hating  sustained  many  accidents  by  fife  during  the 
time  that  it  was  incumbered  with  houses  till  1756,  at 
that  period  the  inconvenience  of  those  buildings  be- 
came so  glaring,  that  application  was  made  to  Parlia- 
ment for  empowering  the  corporation  to  remove  what 
had  become  an  unprofitable  nuisance.    A  temporary 
bridge  of  wood  was  constructed,  which  was  wholly  de- 
stroyed by  fire  in  1759.    The  activity  of  the  corpora- 
tion on  this  circumstance  was  highly  praise-worthy ; 
and  till  the  passage  could  be  efiected,  the  Lord  Mayor 
licensed  forty  boats  more  than  were  allowed  by  the 
statute,  to  ply,  for  the  convenience  of  carrying  over 
passengers.     Dismembered  of  its  nuisances,  London 
Bridge  at  present  aflbrds  a  conclusive  proof  of  national 
improvement.     It  forms  one  grand  street  across  the 
river,  having  on  each  side  a  broad  foot-pavement  and 
a  massy  stone  balustrade,  at  once  afibrding  safety  to 
the  passenger,  and  extensive  views  of  the  river  and  the 
metropolis.    The  whole  is  supported  by  nhieteen  strong 
arches ;  but  on  account  of  the  heavy  fall  of  water,  oc- 
casioned, in  a  great  degree,  by  the  broad  stirlings,  and 
the  contracted  space  of  free  water  way,  many  accidents 
have  happened,  and  the  obstruction  to  the  navigation  of 
the  river  has  been  considerable.    Such  cogent  reasons 
have  induced  the  interference  of  the  city,  as  well  as  the 
legislature;  and  there  have  been  several  plans  laid  be- 
fore the  corporation,  efi^ctually  to  remedy  the  evil. 
Ihe  length  of  the  bridge  is  nine  hundred  and  fifteen, 
and  its  breadth  forty-five  feet;  but  the  widest  arches, 
CKcept  the  centre  arch,  are  only  twenty  feet  wide. 
The  Water  Works  occupy  two  arches  on  the  London 
side^  and  one  on  the  Southwark  side  of  the  river.    It 
appears,  that  anciently,  at  the  south  end  of  the  bridge, 
com  miUs  had  been  erected,  that  the  city  might  be 
enabled  to  supply  the  poor  with  meal  at  a  reasonable 
price,  in  time  of  scarcity;  or  when,  probaUy,  the  price 
w«s  unjustly  raised  by  avaricious  badgers  and  mealncn. 


so  WALKS  THROUGH  JLONDOHir 

Aft^rwAcdb*  in  1589^  Peter  Maurice^  a  Datcb  oniaC* 
contrived  .a  waterreogine  to.  supply  the  citizens  with 
Thamei  water :  this  was  improved  by  Mr.  Sarscold  and 
Mr.  Hadley.  These  worlds  were  brpught  to  their  preo 
se^tstate  by  Mn  S^amsji  who  founded.the  company. 

Qne  turn  of  the  four  wheals  of  this  vast  machine 
makes  one  hundred  and  fourteen  strokes ;  and  when  the 
ri?er  is  »t  its  be^t  power,  the .  wheels  rev<dve  six  timea 
in  a  minute*  but  only  four  and  a  half  at  middle  water ; 
fio  tha^  the  nupber  of  strokes,  in  a  piinute,  are  six  hun« 
dred  and  eighty-four :  and  as  the  ^troke  is  two  ieet  and 
a  half  in  a  ^ven*inch  Jbore,  which  ibises  three  ale  gal* 
Iqn^,  two  thousand  and  (ifty-two  gallons  are  raised  in  a 
minute;;  that  is,  one  hundred  and  twenty-three  thou- 
sand one.hundred  and  twenty  gallons,  or  one  thousand 
and  fifty-four  hogsheads  in  an  hour,  which  is  at  the  rate 
of  fprty-«ix  thousand  eight  hundred  and,  ninety-six  hngfti* 
heads  in  the  day,  to  the  height  of  one  hundred  and 
twenty  feet,  including  the  waste,  which  may  be  about 
a  fifth  part  of  the  whole. 

Returning,  from  London  Bri<^  up  FitlhSirect  HiU 
to  Utile  Eoit'Ckc^p^  the  first  object  of  attention  ia 

This  stately  column,  erected  by.  act  of  Pfurliament 
in  commemoration,  of  the  dreadful  Fire  of  London  ia 
1666,  is  of  the, Doric  order,  and  was.  begun  by  Sit 
Christopher  Wren  in  1671,  and  completed  by  him  in 
1677.  .It  exceeds  ..in  height  those,  stately,  remaina  of 
ancient  grandeur,  the  pillars. of  the  Emperors  Tn^ 
and  Jintoninus  at  RMne,  and. that  of  the  Emperoc 
Theodoaius  at  Constantinopk. ,  The  largest  of  those  at 
Rome,  which  was  that  of  .Antoniaus,  was  only  one  hun«> 
dred.  and.  seventy-two  feet  and  a  half,  in  ..height^  ,wn& 
twelxe  feet  three  inches  in  diameter* 

The  altitude  or  height  4if  .the  .Monument  irom  the 
pavement,  is  two  hundred  and  tw4>  feet^  the. diametec 
of  the  column  or  shaft,  fifteen  feet;  the  ground,  bound* 
ed  by  the  lowest  part  of  the  plinth  or  pedestal,  is  twenty* 


WALKS   THROUGH   LONOOHir 

X    ]    >        '       '      :  •      ..  ,   ;.  i>o     :    .■     ^* 

•    ». ii.-  .^'it  tf  tn<fi.  \,u '  . 

.  t  ..1  <;  M'    *  ...'^;"«':> 

1       '      .'  ;  1-   .        'i:*   vji'-l   i:    .^«i  .. 

.  <  ,•       ;-.   .  I. «      -■  •  t   V  ,    Hi  I    vl..   .   '»•• 

#>  ill    :ii.'A  <}  \  M'  .It     1^!  ':c  »  au'i  j 

.•      •  .   r-        '  ♦  .   t 
•  ...   t..rtt.     .    ..:- 

.  I    ,.  Ii  .  I-    .       .    •     •.•t- 

.     .:.'     *i    uMt 1  ..•  'I 

•    ^  .-*<.    v.*  '  li  li       ;.•.       'ur 

*•    II    )'   iii;;!     uj)  .  'v^'i-  •        /  I{:\ 
'l      !•!   it    i>\    aUr»'  M    .    ;> 


..! 


pavemeut.  im  lwu  jiuhuicu  miu  f  hvu  icci^  .tlie.  ouuutiicc. 
of  the  column  or  shaft,  fifteen  feet;  the  ground,  bound* 
ed  by  the  lowest  part  of  the  plinth  or  pedestal,  is  twenty* 


~*-»^m^i^x  xr  *■,'  's;  •^Ar#'i>    y,  . 


'•z'    /^  v    '  > 


WALKS  TBBOVGH    LONOOII.  M 

«i|^  feet  aquare,  aod  tbe  heigbt  of  the  pedestal  forty 
feet.  The  stair-case/  of  Uack  marble^  in  the  iiitenor> 
ooDtaiits  three  hundred  and  forty-five  steps,  ten  inches 
and  a  half  broad,  and  six-inch  risers.  The  iron  balcony 
o?er  the  capital  enoooipasses  a  cippns,  thirty-two  bei 
high,  supporting  a  blazifig  um  of  gilt  brass.  Sis^penc;^ 
is  still  the  charge  to  each  person  who  chuses  to.s^scend 
the  stairs  inside,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  a  view  from 
the  iron  railing  at  the  suraBOiit  Notwithstanding  the 
fonnality  of  the  inscription,  accusing  the  Catholics  of 
burning  the  city,  most  thinking  people  now  admit  with 
Pope,  that— 

V  Loadoa'i  coiqnyi  poiotii^  at  the  fkifs,  , 

**  Like  a  tall  bally  lifts  iU  head  and  lies.** 

The  west  side  of  the  pede$tal  is  adorned  with  a  cu;ri« 
oDs  emblem  in  alto-relievo,  denoting  the  destructioa  aqd 
restoration  of  the  city:  the  first  female  figure  repre- 
sentsctbe  City  of  Landoo,  sitting  in  ruinn  in  a  languish? 
ing  posture,  with  her  head  directed,  tutir  dishevelled^ 
and.  her  hand  carelessly  lying  on  her  sword ;  b^ind 
is  Time*  gradtiaUy  raiaiag  her  up;  at  her  side  a  wo* 
man  gently  touching  her  with  one  hand,  whilst  a  wing-* 
ed  seeptre  in  tJietOther  directs  her  to  regard  the  god- 
desses in  the  cloudsr  one  with  a  cornucopia  denolv^ 
pleaty,  the  other,  with,  a  palm  braach,  the.  emblesn  .of 
peace.  At  hes  feel  a  heerhive,  shewing  that  by  indus-i 
try  and  application  the.  .gi^eatest  misfortunes .  ai^  to,  .be 
eifepcome.  Behind  Time,  aire  citizens .  exalting .  at.  his 
endeavouis  to  restore  her;  and  beneath,  in  the  midst  oS 
the  niinsk  isadragon,>  who,  as  ^^uppprter  of  the.  city 
arms,  with  his  paw  endearours  to  preseirvQ  the  wn^ 
Opposite  :lhe  City,  on  an  elevated  pavement,  stands  th(| 
kingi.ina  JRoman  habit,  with  a  laurel  <m  hi^head^  and 
a  tfnnchaon  in  his  hand ;  and  approaching  her,  com«) 
inaiida  three  of  his  attendaqU  to  descend  to  her  nelief^ 
The  first  represents  the  Sciences,  with  a  winged  head 
and.  circle  of  naked  boys  dancing  thereon,  and  holding 


2%  WALKS  THROUGH   LO1I0O1I. 

Nature  in  her  hand  with  her  numeroatt  bivatts  readj 
to  give  agsislanoeto  all;  the  second  is  Ardiitecture, 
with  a  plan  in  one  hand  and  a  square  and  pair  of  com- 
passes in  the  others  and  the  third  is  Liberty  waving  a 
hat  in  the  air,  shewing  her  joy  at  the  pleasing  prospect 
of  the  City -s  speedy  recovery :  behind  the  king  stands 
his  brother,  the  Duke  of  York,  with  a  garland  in  one 
hand  to  crown  the  rising  city,  and  a  sword  in  the  other 
for  her  defence.  And  the  two  figures  behind  are  •  Jus* 
tice  and  Fortitude;  the  former  with  a  coronet^  and  the 
latter  with  a  reined  lion ;  and  under  the  royal  pave- 
ment, in  a  vault,  lieth  Envy  gnawing  a  heart,  and  in- 
cessantly emitting  pestiferous  fames  from  her  enve- 
nomed mouth.  And  in  the  upper  part  of  the  plinth 
the  retonstruction  of  the  city  is  represented  by  builders 
and  labourers  at  work  upon  houses. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  pedestal  is  a  Latin  inseHp- 
tion,  thus  rend«^  r  "In  the  year  of  Christ,  1666^, 
September  %  eastward  from  hence,  at  the  distance  of 
two  hundred  and  two  feet,  (the  height  of  this  column), 
a  terrible  fire  broke  out  about  midnight;  which,  driven 
on  by  a  high  wind,  not  only  wasted  the  adjacent  parts, 
but  also  very  remote  places,  with  incredible  crackling 
and  fury.  It  consumed  eighty  •nine  churches,  the  city 
gates,  Giuldhall,  many  public  structures,  hospitals, 
schools,  libraries,  a  vast  number  of  stately  ediBees, 
thirteen  thousand  dwelling  houses,  and  four  hiindred 
streets.  Of  the  twenty*six  wards  it  utterly  destroyed 
fifteen,  and  left  eight  others  shattered  and  half  burnt 
The  ruins  of  the  city  were  four  hundred  and  Uiirty««ir 
acres,  from  the  Tower  by  the  Thames  %ide  to  the  Tem- 
ple Church,  and  from  the  north  east  along  the  wall  to 
Holbom  Bridge.  To  the  estates  and  fortunes  of  the 
city  it  was  merciless,  but  to  their  lives  very  favourable, 
that  it  might  in  all  things  resemble  the  la^t  conflagra- 
tion of  the  world.  The  destruction  was  sudden ;  for 
in  a  small  space  of  time  the  city  was  seen  most  fkni* 


WALKS  TBROUGB  LONDON*  3d 

riihiDg^>  and  reduced  to  nothing.  Three  days  after, 
when  this  fatal  fire  had  baffled  all  hfinian  counsels  and 
endearoun:,  in  the  opinion  of  all  it  stopped,  as  it  were, 
by  a  command  from  heaven,  and  was  on  every  side 
extinguished." 

Ihe  inscription  on  the  south  side  is  translated  thus : 
*'  Charles  the  Second,  son  of  Charles  the  Martyr,  king 
of  Great-Britain,  France,  and  Ireland,  defender  of  the 
iaitb,  a  most  gracious  prince,  commisserating  the  de- 
plorable state  of  things,  whilst  the  ruins  were  yet 
smoking,  provided  for  the  comfort  of  his  citizens,  and 
ornament  of  his  city,  remitted  their  taxes,  and  referred 
the  petition  of  the  magistrates  and  inhabitants  to  Par- 
hament ;  who  immediately  passed  an  act,  that  public 
works  should  be  restored  to  greater  beauty  with  public 
money,  to  be  raised  by  an  impost  on  coals;  that 
churches,  and  the  cathedral  of  St.  Paul's,  should  be 
rebuilt  from  their  foundations  with  all  magnificence^ 
the  bridges,  gates,  and  prisons,  should  be  new  madci 
the  sewers  cleansed,  the  streets  made  straight  and  re- 
gular ;  such  as  were  steep,  levelled,  and  those  too  nar« 
row,  to  be  made  wider.  Markets  and  shambles  re« 
moved  to  separate  places.  They  also  enacted,  that 
every  house  should  be  built  with  party-walls,  and  all 
in  front  raised  of  equal  height,  and  those  walls  all  of 
square  stone  or  brick;  and  that  no  man  should  delay 
building  beyond  the  space  of  seven  years.  Moreover 
care  was  taken  by  law,  to  prevent  all  suits  about  their 
bounds.  Abo  anniversary  prayers  were  enjoined;, 
and,  to  perpetuate  the  memory  hereof  to  posterity, 
they  caused  this  column  to  be  erected.  The  work  was 
carried  on  with  diligence,  and  London  is  restored ;  but 
whether  with  greater  speed  or  beauty,  may  be  made  a 
question.  At  three  years  time  the  world  saw  that 
ftaished,  which  was  supposed  to  be  the  business  of  an 
age." 

Turning  into  Liulc  EeMcheaf^  on  the  left  hand  we, 


34  WALKS  THftOOGH  LONDON. 

come  to  Pudding-Lane,  where,  at  a  baker's  shop^  tbe 
great  fire,  in  1666,  broke  out.  Bnicher^M  Hall  is  in 
tbia  lane. 

Furdier,  on  the  same  side  of  Littie  Eastcheap,  is  tbe 
King's  Weigh'House,  erected  on  the  site  of  tbe  church 
of  St  Andretr  Hubbard,  and  called  the  King's  Weigh- 
House,  because  all  goods  from  beyond  sea  were  ap- 
pointed to  be  weighed  here  by  tbe  king's  beain,  to  pre> 
vent  fraud.  Mr.  John  Clayton's  congregation  now 
occupy  a  part  of  this  building. 

At  the  comer  of  Rood-Lane,  is  the  parish  church  of 
St  Margaret  Pattens,  so  named  from  patten*maker» 
in  this  neighbourhood,  built  by  Sir  Christopher 
Wren. 

Mihcif^'Lane,  is  so  called  from  several  tenemicnta 
belonging  to  the  minchins  or  nuns  of  St  Helen's, 
Bishopsgate-Stteet.  In  this  lane  are  very  good  speci-^ 
inlbns  of  the  stile  of  building,  used  by  Sir  Christopher 
Wren',  for  the  principal  cStizens.  Here  the  elcganit 
atrtidulre,  lately  the  Commercial*  Sale-Rooms,  is  used 
for  transactii^  sokne  of  the  concerns  of  the  Custom*- 
Hduse,  ttH  the  latter  is  rebuilt 

Mark  or  Mart-Lane. — ^Here  is  T%e  Com  Exchange. 
Three'steps  from  the  street  lead  to  a  range  of  eight  lofty 
Doric  columns,  those  at  the  comers'  being  coupled; 
between  this  pillars  are  iron  rails,  and  three  iron  grates. 
These  columns,  with  two  others  in'  the  inside,  support 
a  plain  boilditfg  two  stories  high,  containing  two 
cofie^hdusesy  to  which  there  are  ascents  by  a  flight  of 
handsome  stone  steps  on  each  haAd.  Within  the  iron 
gat^s  is  a  quadrangle  paved  with  broad  flat  stones: 
this  square  is  sui^unded  by  a  colonade,  composed  of 
fix  colOmns  on  each  side,  and  four  at  the  ends;  Above 
the  entablature^  is  a  handsome  balostrade  surroundings 
the  whole  squam,  with  an  elegant  vate  placed  over 
each  column.  The  space  within  the  colonade  is  very 
broad,  with  sftshed  windows  on  the  top,  to  give  the 


WALKS   THROUGH  LONDOlf.  85 

greater  light  to  the  ooro-factorB,  who  nt  round  the 
court  below :  each  has  a  kiod  of  desk  before  hini,  oq 
which  are  several  haDdsfoD  of  com ;  and  from  theK 
small  samples  are  every  market  day  sold  inmeme 
quantities.  The  markeU  are  oik  Mondays  and  Fridays; 
uid,  according  to  the  prices  of  the  Monday  markets, 
the  Lord  Mayor  used  to  asnze  the  bread  for  the  ensn* 
ing  week,  the  disuse  of  which  has  given  rise  to  the 
most  scandalous  imposition  on  the  poUic  Nesviy 
opposite  is  a  neat  structure,  denominated,  !%€  New 
Exchange  far  Cam  amd  Seed. 

Seetking'Lane  was  anciently  Sydon-Lane,  in  which, 
in  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  were  the  residenees 
of  Sir  Francis  Walsingham,  secretary  of  state  ;  the  Earl 
of  Essex;  and  other  eminent  personages.  The  gnrand 
is  now  occupied  by  ettensive  warehouses,  rented  by 
the  East  India  Company,  for  indigo,  ftc. 

Crouched,  vulgarly  called  Cnuehed^Fnan,  was  so 
denominated  from  a  religious  foundation  dfdicated  to 
the  Holy  Cross,  and  built  about  the  year  1298.  The 
indecent  oondott  of  one  of  the  last  poors  waadcstroc- 
tire  to  the  whole  fraternity,  and  idtimately  formed  one 
of  the  pleas  for  thedimohitioa  of  momsteries  in  Bi^- 
kmd. 

At  the  comer  of  Seething^Lane  and  Hart^ltreet,  is 
the  parish  church  of  St.  (Have,  Hart'Stnet,  a  very 
hanchmne  Gothic  structure,  and  inUmsliy  is  worth 
seeing. 

Proceeding  idon^  Faidbrrcik-&r«el  westward,  at  the 
north  end  of  Mnetrng-Lane  is  Cloikworker^s  Hall,  in 
which  are  carvings^  as  large  as  life,  of  James  the  Finst 
and  Chades  the  Fitst.  The  conrl-room  is  Te^fanidp 
s6tne. 

At  the  southern  part  of  Lum-Sirmi  b  Plewtenr^t 
Hall:  it  is  a  substantial  brick  edifice  endosing  a  small 
court  The  Company's  arms  and  a  dial,  mth  the 
moao.  Sic  vita,  and  a  spider  and  a  fly  crawling  on  it. 


86  WAtKS   THROUGH    LONDOIT. 

painted  on  glass,  are  in  one  of  the  windows.  In  the 
court-room  are  some  ancient  portraits.  Cullum-Strcet 
is  built  on  the  site  of  a  house  and  garden  of  a  knight  of 
the  same  name. 

Philpot-Lane  was  built  on  the  mansion  of  Sir  John 
Philpot,  the  patriotic  citizen,  who,  in  the  reign  of 
Richard  the  Secopd,  manned  a  fleet  at  his  own  expence 
to  scour  the  English  seas  of  foreign  pirates. 

At  the  west  end  of  Fenchurch-Street,  as  before  ob- 
served, is  the  parish  church  of  St.  Bennet,  Gracechurch'- 
Street,  situated  in  what  was  formerly  a  Grass^market. 
Hence  returning  to  Comhill,  concludes  the  first  walk. 


WALK  II. 


From  the  Royal  Exchange  to  Aldgate,  Duke's  Place, 
Whitechapel  Bars,  Return  to  Houndsditch,  Bishops- 
gate-^Street  to  Norton  Palgate,  Wormwood-Street  to 
Broad'Street,  and  back  to  the  Royal  Exchange. 

Having  already  noticed  whatever  is  remarkable  in 
Comhill,  Leadenhall-Street,  and  the  south  side  of  Aid- 
gate,  the  first  object  of  attention  on  the  north  side  is 
Duke's  Place. 

Aldgate  formerly  stood  between  the  street  called 
Houndsditch  on  the  north,  and  the  Minories  on  the 
south.  It  was  one  of  the  principal  gates  of  the  city, 
and  was  pulled  down  with  Aldersgate,  Cripplegate, 
&c.  about  the  year  1760.  Near  Aldgate  Church  is 
Sir  John  Cass's  school,  with  his  statue  in  the  front. 
Aldgate  Church,  dedicated  to  St.  Botolph,  and  rebuilt 
in  1741,  is  a  plain  but  capacious  edifice  of  brick,  with 
a  lofty  and  well-|>roportioned  steeple. 

A  little  to  the  westward  of  this,  we  find  the  area,  the 
alleys,  &c.  which  bear  the  general  name  of  Duke's 


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WALKS   THBOUGH    LONDON.  37 

Place^  once  the  site  of  the  priory  of  the  Holy  Trinity, 
founded  in  1108,  hy  Matilda,  wife  to  Henry  the  First; 
and  being  the  richest  in  England,  was  for  that  reason 
supposed  to  have  been  the  first  dissolved  by  Henry  the 
Eighth,  who  granted  it  to  Thomas  Audley,  afterwards 
Lord  High  Chancellor  of  England.  Coming  after- 
wards to  the  Duke  of  Norfolk,  and  remaining  with  the 
Howard  family,  it  received  the  name  of  Duke^s  Place, 
It  became  the  habitation  of  Jews  in  the  time  of  Oliver 
Cromwell.  One  corner  of  the  area  or  square,  in 
Duke's  Place,  is  distinguished  by  the  Synagogue  of 
the  German  Jews,  built  in  the  simplest  style  of  Ger- 
man architecture,  and  the  other  by  the  little  church  of 
Sc  James — a  brick  edifice  of  the  time  of  James  the 
First,  and  named  after  that  monarch. — Pennant  ob« 
served,  that  in  his  time  only  two  arches  remained  of 
this  priory.  But  it  may  supply  the  future  antiqua- 
ry, with  some  reflection,  to  be  informed,  that,  in  the 
month  of  September,  1816,  the  site  of  the  last  gate- 
way belonging  to  this  ancient  priory,  and  consequently 
its  last  visible  vestige,  was  partly  occupied  by  a  new 
house  not  then  finished,  and  the  passage  rendered 
more  convenient  by  the  removal  of  another  dwelling 
that  lately  crossed  the  gate,  consisting  of  a  central 
and  two  side  arches  of  the  pointed  order,  leading  to- 
wards Cree  Church-Lane.  This  gate,  once  perhaps 
the  principal  western  entrance,  for  no  reason  that  can 
now  be  assigned,  was  distinguished  by  the  inhabitants 
of  Duke's  Place,  by  the  name  of  the  Thrum  Gate. 
Here  too  the  singular  mutation  of  the  same  spot  in  the 
course  of  a  few  centuries  ofifers  a  striking  contrast:  the 
first  inhabitants  were  obedient  and  zealous  Christians, 
devoted  to  the  worship  of  the  Holy  Trinity ;  the  latter, 
incredulous  and  obstinate  Jews,  willing,  at  all  times,  to 
forego  life  and  all  its  enjoyments,  rather  than  pay  the 
least  deference  to  the  opinions  of  the  founders  of  this 
priory !     Geniu««  however,  has  once  at  least  enlightened 


S8  WALKS    THitOUOR    LONDON. 

the  gloom  of  this  obscare  corner;  and  it  will  perhapi 
never  be  forgotten,  that  here  a  Hans  Holbein  has 
painted;  and  that  he  lived  under  the  patronage  of  a 
ferocious  prince  who  observed,  that  though  he  could 
make  as  many  nobles  as  he  pleased,  it  was  out  of  his 
power  to  make  one  painter. 

Houndsditch  is  a  long  street,  running  into  Bisliops- 
gate-Street,  and  derived  its  name  from  running  along 
the  city  wall,  and  having  formerly  been  the  i^eceptacle 
for  dead  dogs  and  other  filth.  Hence  proceeding 
eastward,  the  long  street  and  suburbs  of  Wbitechapel 
commence,  leading  to  a  number  of  alms-houses-  and 
other  benevolent  foundations,  highly  indicative  of  the 
opulence  and  benevolence  of  the  country,  after  hav- 
ing passed  a*  long  range  of  butcher's  shops  on  the  south 
side  of  this  wide  street,  which  altogether  form  what 
i»  called  Whitechapel-Market,  mostly  for  carcase 
butchers. 

Returning  to  Houndsditch,  we  find,  on  the  south  side 
of  this  street,  and  a  little  to  the  north  of  JDuke^s  Place, 
a  street  called  Bevis  Marks,  containing  a  handsome 
synagogue  for  the  Portugueze  Jews.  Here  too  the 
meeting-house  in  Bury-Street  is  still  memorable,  on 
account  of  its  having  been  that  in  which  the  celebrated 
Doctor  Watts  used  to  preach,  erected  in  the  year  170B. 
'  On  the  opposite  side  of  Houndsditch  a  small  passage 
leads  to  Devonshire-Square,  containing  Devonshire 
house,  at  present  one  of  the  principal  meeting-houses  <if 
the  Friends.  A  very  large  house  on  this  spot,  origi- 
nally built  by  one  Fisher,  who  ruined  himself,  and 
hence  caHed  ''  Fiiher^s  Folfy,'*  became  the  habitation 
of  several  noblemen  before  and  after  Queen  Elizabeth's 
time.  One  of  its  last  occupants  was  William,  the 
second  Earl  of  Devonshire,  who  died  here  in  the  year 

Nearly  opposite  to  Devonshire-Court,  in  Bishops* 
{{ate-Street,  stands  Si.  Botolph%  Bithop^au. 


WALKS  THROUOH  LONDON.  39 

Thif  fahric,  begun  upon  the  «ite  of  the  oM  church, 
in  1725,  has  a  spacioiis  body  of  brick,  and  is  wdl  en- 
lightened,  the.roqf  being  alio  concealed  by  a  balus* 
trade.  The  steeple  exhibitg  a. considerable,  appearance 
of  grandeur.  In  the  centre  of  tfie  front  is  ahrge plain 
arched  window  decorated  yf'nh  pilasteri  of  the  Doric 
order;  oTer  this  a  festoon,  and  i^ve  an  angular  pedl^- 
ment;  on  each  side  is  a  door  crowned  with  windows, 
and  oyer  these  are  others  of  the  port^hole  kind:  above 
these  a  square  tower  rises  crowned  by  a  dome  with  a  cir* 
cular  base,  surrounded  by  a  balustrade  in  the  same  form } 
on  each  side  of  this,  at  the  comer  of  the  tower,  are  placed 
urns  with  flames.  From  this  part  rises  a  series  of 
coupled  Corinthian  pillars,  supporting  similar  urns  to 
the  fanner,  and  orer  them  the  dome  ascends,  Cfowncd 
with  a  very  large  vase  with  flames.  The  structure, 
upon  the  whole,  is  upon  a  simple,  beautiful,  and  har- 
monious plan,  and  the  steeple  more  in  taste  than  many 
in  the  metropolis,  notwithstanding  a  great  entrance* 
door  is  wanting  in  the  centre.  TTie  inside  of  thechurch 
u  commensurate  with  the  exterior,  and  the  pidpit  in  a 
grand  style.  The  monument  of  Sir  Paul  Pindar  is  one 
of  the  most  conspicuous.  In  the  lower  church-yard 
there  is  another,  with  an  inscripdon  in  Persian  charac- 
ter^,  relative  to  a  secretary  to  the  Persian  ambassador, 
who  died>iere  in  1096u 

In  New-Street,  nearly  opposite  thb  ehnrch,  are  the 
East  India  Company's  wardiouses,  with  fronts  several 
hundred  feet  in  length,  and  in  general  covering  more 
ground  than  any  of  our  royal  palaces. 

From  these,  during  the  late  war,  three  regiments  of 
aimed  men,  composed  of  servants,  &c.  were  in  the -ha- 
bit of  issuing  out  two  or  three  times  a  week  to  be 
trained  and  exercised  in  a  field  belonging  to  the  Bast 
India  Company  near  the  City-Road,  and  were  generally 
known  by  the  name  of  the  Company's  Volunteerai 

Returning  again  to  the  southward,  near  CamomiIe<» 


40  WALKS  THROUGH  LOMDOIT. 

Street,  we  observe  a  stooe  affixed  to  a  house,  with  a 
mitre,  as  a  memorial  where  Bisfaoptgate  stood.  Not 
far  from  this  is  the  Marine  Sode^'s  House,  a  plain 
building,  only  distinguished  by  the  representation  of  a 
female  figure  taking  a  destitute  boy  under  her  care« 
This  institution  was  first  proposed  by  the  late  Jonas 
Hanway,  Esq.  As  an  appendage  to  this  plan«  the  So- 
ciety have  a  vessel  on  the  Thames,  near  Woolwieh,  for 
the  reception  of  a  hundred  boys,  who  are  trained  with 
all  possible  care  for  the  sea  service.  Nearly  a4Joining 
to  this  structure  is  the  church  of  St.  Ethelbnrga :  this 
church,  one  of  the  smallest  in  the  city,  was  built  in  the 
reig9  of  Henry  the  Fiflh  or  Sixth.  It  has  a  flat  Gothic 
window,  and  a  plain  stuccoed  front,  having  a  small 
turret  and  a  clock.  On  the  same  side  of  the  way  is  St. 
Helen's- Place.  A  handsome  pile  of  modern  buUdings 
covers  the  ancient  site  of  the  nunnery  of  St.  Helen ;  a 
very  great  portion  of  its  remains  was  to  be  seen  in 
Leather-sellers'  Hall,  which,  a  few  years  since,  was  used 
as  a  Dissenters'  meeting-house,  and  other  vestiges  of 
this  nunnery  aie  still  visible  in  the  cellars  of  some  of 
the  houses  on  this  spot. 

At  a  short  distance,  north  of  Crosby^Square,  is  a 
handsome  open  place  called  Great  St.  Helen's,  The 
church  here,  one  of  those  thai  escaped  the  fire  of  Lon* 
don,  is  a  Gothic  structure  of  the  lighter  kind,  and  con- 
tains several  curious  monuments,  particularly  that  of 
the  singular  usurer,  Bancroft,  who  left  his  ill-gotten 
wealth  tx>  charitable  uses,  and. flattered  himself  with 
the  idea  of  opening  his  coffin,  which  may  be  seen  fur- 
nished with  a  lock  and  key  for  that  purpose. 

Crosby  House  in  Crosfy-Square, — This  ancient  edi* 
fice  was  built  by  Sir  John  Crosbie,  Sheriff,  in  1470 ; 
and  here  Richard,  Duke  of  Gloucester,  lodged,  after 
be  had  conveyeil  his  devoted  nephews  to  the  Tower. 
It  is  singular,  that  when  Crosby  House  was  first  erected 
it  was  supposed  to  have  been  the  highest  in  London^ 


WALKS  TBBOUOB  LONDON.  41 

and  occapied  the  whole  of  Croshy  Square.  Henry  the 
Eighth  ^rranted  this  houae  to  Anthony  Bonvica,  an 
Italian  merchant^  and  in  Cloeen  Elizabeth's  time  it  was 
appropriated  for  the  reception  of  ambaasadon;  though 
in  1594,  Sir  John  Spei^r  kept  his  mayoralty  here.. 

The  hall,  the  principal  of  the  remains,  hasbeeamis- 
calkd  Richard  the  Third's  chapel ;  and,  for  the  eoeve- 
nience  of  the  late  occupants,  has  been  divided  into 
floors.  The  building  is  still  majestic;  and  the  west 
side  presents  a  range  of  beautiful  Gothic  windows: 
here  is  also  a  fine  circular  window.  I1ie  timber  i>oof, 
of  most  exquisite  workmanship,  is  divided  by  three 
rows  of  pendanta,  ranging  along,  and  connected  by 
pointed  archea :  the  whole  has  been  highly  ornament- 
ed. Thia  ball  has  been  let  to  several  religious  assem- 
blies, and  since  to  tradesmen.  This  noble  room  is  of 
stone,  fif^y-four  feet  long,  twenty-seven  feet  wide  (ex- 
actly half  its  length),  and  forty  feet  high.  It  has  eight 
windows  on  a  side,  at  a  considerable  elevation  from  the 
ground,  each  measuring  eleven  feet  six  inches  high, 
by  five  feet  six  inches  wide  ;  in  which  number  may  be 
included  a  spacious  recess^  or  larger  window,  towards 
the  north-east,  reaching  from  the  floor  to  the  roof. 
Adjoining  this  recess,  on  the  north  side,  is  a  handsome 
doorway  bricked  up,  which  formerly  communicated 
with  the  ground  floor  in  the  north  wing ;  and  nearly 
opposite,  a  ponderous  stone  chimney-piece,  calculated 
to  give  warmth  to  so  large  a  space,  being  ten  feet  five 
inches  broad,  by  seven  feet  high.  The  floor  has  been 
formerly  paved  with  hard  stones,  seemingly  a  species 
of  marble,  laid  diamond-ways,  but  is  much  damaged. 
A  number  of  small  square  tiles,  the  former  paving  of 
some  of  the  other  rooms  or  passages,  were  long  pre- 
served here  with  mere  lumber.  They  are  extremely 
bard,  glazed,  and  ornamented  with  different  figures. 

The  principal  remains  of  Crosby  House  consist  of 
three  large  apartments^  viz.  the  hall  and  two  adjoining 


4S  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

chamberay  fonniag  the  eastern  and  northern  sidet  of  a 
quadrangle.  The  former  of  these  sides,  which  iace« 
Bishopegate-Streety  extends  from  the  entrance  of  Cros- 
by-Square to  Great  St.  Helen's  church«yard»  a  distance 
of  about  eighty-four  feet,  and  contains  the  hall,  a  room 
of  one  story,  together  with  some  smaller  apartments  at 
each  end.  The  northern  side  is  about  half  that  length, 
and  is  divided  into  two  stories,  an  upper  and  a  lower 
one,  each  containing  a  large  chamber. 

The  present  approach  to  the  hall  is  from  Bishops* 
gate-Street,  or  rather  from  the  passage  to  Crosby- 
Square,  by  a  modem  flight  of  stone  steps :  here  the 
only  part  of  its  outside  is  visible,  which  is  not  surround* 
ed  by  houses.  It  appears  of  no  great  length,  plastered, 
and  surmounted  by  a  stone  parapet,  but  remarkable 
for  the  elegance  of  its  windows.  A  small  fragment  of 
the  outside  of  Crosby  House  itself,  is  to  be  seen  like- 
wise in  St  Helen's  church-yard;  but  though  since 
serving  as  an  entrance  to  the  hall,  it  formed  no  part  of 
it  originally.  Of  the  north  wing,  part  of  the  outside 
is  completely  modernized,  and  the  rest  hid.  The  back 
entrance  is  represented  in  the  wood  engraving. 


IS  WALKS  TBKOUGH  LONDON. 

chambera^  fomung  the  eastern  and  northern  sidei  of  a 
quadrangle.  The  former  of  these  sides,  vhich  ftces 
Bishopsgate^treet,  extends  from  the  entrance  of  Croa- 
by-Square  to  Great  St.  Helen's  church-yard^  a  distance 
of  about  eighty-four  feet,  and  contains  the  hall,  a  room 
of  one  story,  U^ther  with  some  smaller  apartments  at 
each  end.  The  northern  side  is  about  half  that  length, 
and  is  divided  into  two  stories,  an  upper  and  a  lower 
one,  each  containing  a  large  chamber. 


WALKS  THBOUOH  LONDON.  43 

The  Ct#y  qf  htrndtm  Taoem^  on  the  same  side  of 
Bishopsgate-Street^  is  the  shewy  rival  of  the  Old  Lon- 
don TaYem,  on  the  opposite  side  towards  ComhiU,  and 
is  easily  dlstinguifbed.  by  its  fine  atone /ront»  and  its 
superb  entrance^  ... :         .     ;     .       . 

The  orchestra, ilie Iqstres^  &€*in  the.jKincipal  room* 
equal  every  ex^tatidn  which  oiay  be  excited  by  the 
imposing  view  of  the  exterior  of  this.buildiog. 

The  London  Ta^^em,  before  mentioned,  stands  on  the 
ruins  of  an  arched-  building,  the  origin  of  which  cannot 
be  traced.  This  tavern  is- spacious,  and  afibrds  every 
desirable  convenience,  and  has  Jong  been  distinguished 
by  the  numerous  companies  entertained  here. 

Proceeding  up3iB^op6gate-Street>iieaf  St  BotolphN 
Church,  we  observe  a  house,  called  the  White  Hart,  an 
ancient  tavern,  bearkig  the  daite  of  1480  upon  its  front. 
It  is  by  no  means  likely  that  this  is  the  original  build- 
ing, though  its  extreme  length  of  window,  and  other 
appearances  about  it,  are  indications  of  its  being  very 
old.  TTiere  is  some  probability  of  its  having  been  iht 
boskelkry,  or  inn,  belonging  to  the  Old  Priory  of  Beth^ 
lem,  for  the  entertainment  of  stranger*,  as  was  ens- 
tomafy  in  those  times.  This  old  priory,  which  wastm 
the  east,  or  Bishopsgate-Stveet  side,  of  Moorfidds, 
Henry  the  Eighth,  at  the  time  of  the  Dissolution^  gave 
to  die  citizens  of  London  for  the  use  of  lunatics. 

Nearly  opposite  to  Widegate-8treet  are  the  remains 
of  the  residence  of  Sir  Paul  Pindar,  for  some  years  past 
occupied  as  a  liquor-shop.  Its  ancient}  GoUlic  front 
has  beta  strangely  metamorphosed,  being  stuccoed, 
coloared>  &c.  It  is  represented  in  the  foUowiag  wood 
engraving. 


cation  of  children  who  might  be  found  begging  or  pil- 
fering about  the  streets. 

Union-Street  was  built,  within  thirty  years,  upon 
the  site  of  numerous  courts  and  alleys,  and  now  forms 
a  very  convenient  line  of  communication,  through 
Finsbury-SquarCy  between  the  east  and  west  ends  of 
the  town.  This  new  cut,  as  it  is  oflen  called^  intersects 
the  street  between  Bishopsgate  and  Shoreditch,  called 


Vw?  NEW  YUKU^ 


^"•*  . 


WALKS  tHIIOUGH   LOKDOlt.  45 

Norton  Falgate^  near  to  the  east  end  of  which  stood  the 
priorj  and  hospital  of  St.  Mary  Spital. 

The  Old  Artillery  Ground,  on  the  eastern  side  of 
Bishopsgale-Street,  gave  names  to  Artillery- Street, 
Gun-Street,  Fort-Street,  &c.  after  the  Company  had 
removed  to  the  present  Artillery  Ground,  by  Bunhill- 
Row,  during  the  reign  of  James  the  First. 

Recrossing  the  line  of  Bishopsgate-Street,  to  the 
westward,  we  enter  HolywelUStreet,  the  site  of  the  an* 
cient  monastery  6f  that  name  ;  one  end  of  this  street 
runs  towards  Shoreditch,  and  the  other  into  the  Cur« 
tain-Road.  An  arched  gateway  belonging  to  this 
foundation  stood  within  a  few  paces  of  the  street  with- 
in the  last  thirty  years,  and  at  that  time  led  to  a  dust- 
yard. 

What  was  Holywell-Mount,  raised  by  the  Fire  of 
London,  was  levelled  about  the  year  1787,  and  is  now 
the  site  of  a  chapel  and  several  decent  streets.  The 
Curtain-Road  adjacent  contained  a  theatre,  mentioned 
as  early  as  1578:  here  Richard  Tarleton,  "one  of 
Queen  Elizabeth's  twelve  players,  with  wages  and 
livery,"  exhibited  to  the  public. 

At  the  comer  of  Worship-Street,  in  the  Curtain- 
Road,  is  one  of  the  stations  of  the  Gas  Light  and  Coke 
Company,  incorporated  in  April,  1813. 

Proceeding  a  little  to  the  westward  of  the  Curtain- 
Road,  we  come  to  Moor6elds,  the  upper  part  of  which, 
since  the  year  1777,  has  been  covered  with  the  elegant 
buildings  of  Finsbury-Square  and  several  good  streets. 
The  house,  at  the  south-east  angle  of  this  square,  and 
on  which  its  owner,  the  late  Mr.  J.  Lackington,  imposed 
the  denomination  of  the  Temple,  of  the  Muses,  is  distin- 
guished by  a  light  cupola  at  the  top.  It  was  originally 
built  for.  Mr.  Caslon,  the  letter-founder;  but  aa  some^. 
thing  occurred  to  prevent  his  occupation  of  it,  Mr. 
Lackington  having  experienced  the  capaciousness  of 
the  lower  part  by  drawing  a  coach  and  six  round  it,  be 


46  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

thought  this  a  circumstance  .which  might  be  brought 
forward  with  adYantage,  to  recommend  the  extent  of 
bis  new  shop  to  the  notice  of  the  public. 

With  the  intention  of  introducing  further  embellish^ 
ments  in  this  quactery  Bethlem  Hospital,  for  lunatics, 
on  the  south  side  of  Lower«Moorfie1ds,  has  been  ea* 
tirely  taken  down>  the  trees  dug  up  in  the  quarters> 
and  a  new  s<}Uare  traced  out  in  the  large  space  between 
Finsbury-Square  and  Bethlem  Hospital.  It  may  be 
regretted  that  the  ground  does  not  appear  to  let,  and 
that  no  jnivaie  htnue*  are  as  yet  begun. 

Returning  towards  Broad-Street,  at  the  comer  of 
Tltfeadneedle-Street,  we  perceive  the  church  of  St. 
MaitiB  Outwich  at  the  comer :  this  edifice  was  so  much 
damaged  by  a  fire  in  1766,  that  il  was  found  necessary 
to  be  rebuilt.  '  The  structure  towards  Threadneedle- 
Street  consists  of  a  lofty  blank  wall,  with  a  small  door  at 
the  comer:  the  frodt  next  Bishopsgate,  presents  a  wall 
with  blank  windows.  The  interior  embellishments  in 
tiiis  church  amply  recompense  the  want  of  them 
Without^  particularly  the  picture  of  the  Resurrection, 
by  Rigaud. 

Opposite  is  the  Saiuh  Sea-H&ute,  standing  both  in 
Threadneedle-Street  and  Old  Broad-Street;  the  latter 
was  originally  the  South  Sea  Company's-Office,  and  is 
«t  present  known  by  the  name  of  the  Old  South  Sea- 
House.  The  new  buiUUng  is  a  magnificent  structure 
of  brick  and'  Portland  stone,  enclosing  a  quadrangle, 
supported  by  pillars  of  the  Tuscan  order,  and  forming 
a  good  piaaza.'  The  front,  in  Threadneedle-Street,  of 
the  Doric  order,  is  very  handsome.  The  great  hall  for 
sales,  the  dining<»room, '  galleries,  and  chambers,  are 
beAutiful  and  convenient;  and  underneath  the  building 
are  arched  vaults,  to  preserve  valuables  in  case  of  fire. 
^This  street  also  conUins  Merchant '  Taybrs'-HaH, 
with  the  portraits  of  several  eminent  men,  and  the  grant 
of  the  charter  by  Henry  the  Seventh. 


TFF  NEW  YORK  1 


PUBLIC 


VTALKS  THEOUOH   LONDON.  47 

The  contimiatioa  of  Thrcadnecdic-Strect,  socalfed 
on  accoant  of  Merchant  Taylor^a-HaU,  wm  foraiprly 

•v     •       ..A  *:'   v    / 

.  .^  .  IS,   uxvl  •■•    *.  •  •  . 

.      :^.'       p  ot  '.-.Jt  f  .    ;    -     . 
i!in.      oi*yt:/K'    * 

'  [i*t'  *n  *  i»N  x:i   '  ^ '    * ,  '      •     * 

',    c•^  .•        ..^%  '    - 

.      .  .,    •'  :-  M     .  .  '     - 

.    r.     ^.  .....  I    .     ..  .         .       •!•' 

;.  .     .     *•».:  .'•*•■  •  • 

...    vt.        "  *•  .-.  *    i. 

,       .«.»'-rfl'       .*'■•.•  in'...  '  '  '        '        . 

Vw  .\     -I      •  •  M  .'  '  •  V  .» 

..;  :-rA  '7    •  /.«•  -^.^  «.t,    ■■       ■  .  •   ^:« 

..    4      ■    .' i'r.  .fi  •  V^ -••  ^  !"•  »     •''•*'  '    ' 
....    •  .    N«  •    *'/  <i  'I  tTti*^  ^.' ■'.  ■     '    •  .. 

I.-   •  .  '  ■(:  ih:. .  •«  a-  .;:       -■    A  »'»ul  i' 
t  ^' j\  .'i   .!':     with   J.'    pr.t-m*^'  •    '.'^''''-      ♦  ' 

••^!>1^     i.  •  •W  Site  of    t-    •    t«!    »     »•>»>'     .    r.  'Ui-'     i    •• 

•J^..fo       '  re.*ljani    .»   1:75,  «»vi  thf  J-      '»     • 
'    '    .jtn;*ff,  lil!  •'  V  ..  .  'v^',!  '1  ,xy     in  J'^    -. 

i9ouiu  Sea  iiwUi^     iut  i/<i  •  '*'ir»  '.».  •  ♦:!  S'    I)i'  ••'   •    5 


■■^■■T 

'   -^j 


.*rr^ 


WA1.KB  TREOUOH   LONDON.  47 

The  contimiatioii  of  Tbrea4needle-Street«  socaUod 
on  account  of  Merchant  Taylor's-Hall,  was  fornierly 
catted  Pig-Stretf^  when  thote  animals,  belongings  to 
the  Hospital  of  St.  Anthony,  being  used  to  run  abbut 
the  streeU,  and  to  be  fed  by  passengers,  gave  rise 
to  the  adage  of  <'  Following  like  a  Tantony  Pig.'^— 
On  the  site  of  that  hospital,  and  now  most  probably  in 
a  nrach  cleanlier  condition,  the  French  or  Walloon 
Chnrdh  was  erected  subsequent  to  another,  which  had 
been  destroyed  by  fire. 

The  church  of  St.  Bennet  Fink  stands  at  the  south- 
west end  of  Threadneedle-Street,  upon  the  site  of  ano« 
ther,  built  as  early  as  1323.  The  interior  of  the  present 
fabric  is  a  complete  elipsis^  and  the  roof  an  eliptical 
cupola  with  a  glazed  turret  in  the  centre,  environed 
with  a  cornice,  supported  by  sik  stone  columns  of  the 
Composite  <M^er.  Between  each  of  these  columns  u  a 
spacious  arch  and  six  large  vrindoHr^,  ^ith'  singular 
mullions.  The  altar-piece  and  the  font  are  very  beauti- 
ful. The  sfeeple  and  the  cupola  rise  above  onehi&n- 
dred  feet  from  the  ground.  The  high  finishing  of  this 
churchf  is  said  to  have  been  owing  to  Mr.  Holman's 
contribiition  of  1000/.  though  this  gentleman  was  a 
Boman  Catholic. 

Taming  down  Brbad-Sti^,  on  the  south  side,  we 
come  to  l%e  Excue-Qfice,  a  plain  but  large  and  elegant 
stone  building,  erected  in  1763,  four  stories  in  height, 
with  an  entrance  through  the  middle  of  it  into  t  large 
yard,  in  which  there  is  ilnother  brick  building,  nearly 
eqnal  in  size  with  the  principal  edifice.  The  front 
st^lds  on  the  site  of  ten  ahns-bouies,  fohnded  by  Sir 
Thomas  Gresham  in  1575;  and  the  back  building, 
wiHh  the  yard,  is  the  ground  on  which  Gresham  Col- 
lege stdod,  tillit  was  taken  down  in  17^. 

The  church  of  St.  Peter  Le  Poor  is  on  the  west  side 
of  BroadrStrteet,  op|K)site  the  back  entrance  of  the 
South  Sea-House«    The  old  church,  like  St.  Duiistail's 


48  WALKS  tiiiu>uoa  londoit; 

in  the  Wetlt,  and  some  others  projecting  considerably 
beyend  the  line  of  the  houses^  was,  by  an  act  passed 
in  1788,  taken  down,  and  rebailt  in  1791.  The  west 
end  i&  elegantly  simple ;  the  door  is  in  the  centre,  be- 
tween double  Ionic  columns;  the  ends  of  the  front  are 
adorned  with  pilasters  of  the  same  order,  with  blank 
windows,  &c.  Above  the  door  is  a  moulded  pediment 
with  a  plain  tympanum,  and  over  this  a  square  tower 
in  two  stories,  the  whole  surmounted  by  an  d^ant 
shaped  dome. 


WALK  III. 


Tkrontgh  ComkiU  and  Gracechurch-Street,  hy  Lombard" 
Street,  Eastcheap,  and  Upper  ThameS'Streei,  Daw^ 
gate-Hill,  Widhrook,  ifc. 

Lombard-Strbbt  is  so  called  from  having  been  the 
residence  of  the  Lombards,  the  great  money-lenders  of 
ancient  times,  and  who  came  originally  from  the  Ita- 
lian republics  of  Genoa,  Lucca,  Florence,  and  Venice. 
Owing  to  the  abuses  committed  by  this  body  of  men,. 
Queen  Eliaabeth  compelled  them  to  quit  the  country. 
Lombard-Street,  after  having  been  long  a  kind  of  Ex- 
change, became  the  residence  of  bankers  of  eminence, 
as  it  still  continues  to  be.  The  parish  church  of  &• 
Ednmndthe  King  stands  near  the  centre  of  this  street, 
well  built  of  stone.  The  most  remarkable  monument 
here  is  that  of  Dr.  Jeremiah  Mills,  who  died  in  1784, 
having  been  President  of  the  Society  of  Antiquaries 
many  years.  The  ancient  grass,  or  hay-market,  in  this 
street,  was  held  on  the  g^round  now  occu[Hed  by  this 
church. 

The  church  of  All  Hallowi,  Ixmbard'Street^  was- 
rebuilt  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren.    This  is  a  very  neat 


-^■^-,.^, 


'^//LPf./rKy  Orc^r/^yy. 


'/^k 


M^a.lk3' 


l!l»> 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  49 

building,  and  the  carving  of  the  inner  door  cases  is 
really  beautiful. 

White  Hart-Court,  opposite  All  Hallow's  Church, 
contains  the  most  ancient  meeting-house,  belonging  to 
the  Friends,  in  London. 

Proceeding  down  Gracechurch-Street,  we  come  to 
Great  Eastcheap,  ''  immortalized/'  as  Pennant  ob« 
serves,  <'  as  the  place  of  rendezvous  of  Sir  John  Fal- 
staff  and  bis  merry  companions.''  The  site  of  the 
&moui  Boar*s-Head  Tavern  has  long  since  been  covered 
by  more  modem  houses ;  but  one  of  the  door-posts 
has  this  head  cut  in  it  to  commemorate  the  circum- 
stance. 

The  continuation  of  Great  Eastcheap  is  commonly 
called  Cannon- Street,  on  the  north  side  of  which  is 
Abcharch-Lane,  and  the  parish  church  of  Si,  Maty 
Ahchurch.  This  is  one  of  Sir  Christopher  Wren's 
erections,  but  has  nothing  particularly  striking  in  its 
exterior. 

In  Clement's- Lane,  on  the  same  side  of  Cannon-* 
Street,  is  the  parish  church  of  Si,  Clefnent,  Eagi» 
cheap,  a  plain  neat  edifice  of  the  Composite  order. 
To  this  parish  was  added  that  of  St  Martin  Orgar, 
on  the  south  side  of  Cannon-Street  This  church  is 
occupied  by  French  Protestants,  and  is  the  only  one 
in  the  city  in  which  the  Church  of  England  service  is 
performed,  iii  the  French  language. 

Further  on  is  Miles's,  or  rather  St.  Michael's- Lane, 
long  distinguished  by  a  Dissenting  Meeting^'House. 
Crooked-Lane  runs  from  Miles's-Lane  to  Fish-Street 
Hill,  remarkable  for  the  manufacture  of  fishing-tackle, 
bird-cages,  hand-milk,  &c.  At  the  south  side  of  this 
avenue  stands  the  parish  church  of  St.  Michael's, 
Crooked-Lane,  biiilt  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren.  Here 
William  Walworth,  who  killed  Wat  Tyler,  was  buried, 
whose  epitaph,  in  uncouth  rhyme,  is  recorded  by 
Weever  in  his  Funeral  Monuments. 


I      * 


*i.  * 


.  .    I  •>.  »      '      : 
■       ....     ./•!•.  A 

.    .    '^     ',    {...     .       »■     • 


.1   '    •    .« 

'••    '.i;!t   ,    o     i 


icig  Utbe  chapel,  and  tlielibrarf,  weUfViraiished.  Tbree 
hundred  boys  receive  a  classicaJ  education,  one  third  ot 
them  gratia^  and  the  rest  iTor  a  very  small  stipend.  It  is 
esteemed  aii  exeelknt  iseminary,  and  sends  seyersll  scho^ 
lars  annuadty  to  St  Jehn^s,  Oxford,  in  which  there  are 
forty-six  fellowshipsi  belonging  to  it. 

Opposite  to  thid  lane,  on  the  Thames  side,  is  Cold 
Hathaur,  so  called  at  4irst  Crom  its  bleak  sitdation. 
Here  a  magnificent  Minsion  was  standing  in  the  reign 
of  Edward  the  Second,  which,  passing  through  several 
hands,  was  occupied  by  Tonstal,  Bishop  of  Durham,  as 
a  compensation  (br  Durham  Place,  in  the  Strand;  be* 
rog"  deprived  ^f  his  see,  the  premises  were  bestowed  on 
theEirl  of  Shrewsbary,  by  Edward  tbe  Sixth. 

Tbe  church  ot  All  Hallows,  Thames-Sireet,  stands 
near  the  end^^f  Cold  Harbour  Lane^  was  built  in  1683, 
and  contains  a  beautiful  specimen  oif  wrought  work^ 
in  a  fine  screen  made  at  Hamburgh,  a  present  from' the 
merchai|ta  tradmg.  to  the  Hans  Towns,  <who  were  the 
ori^nal  Qccupanta  of  tb^  stiU,  or  steel  .yard,  on  this 
spotr  which  i*now  the^grfatvepository  of -(nost  of  the 
iroir  imported  for  the  use  oCthe  metropolis.     •    ' 

(  Dongate^  a. httle  further  on,,  was  anciently  end  of 
the  Roman  gates,' and  a  ferry,  for  crossing  the  Thames-} 
ilfko  gavea  nam^  to.tha  ward  in  Jirhich  tt  stands* 

'  •Pktmben^'Hdtt,  Is  on  the  east  side  of  Dowgate-Hill, 
in  Checqii^^YardySO  calleci^fretai  the  checquers  uiBuaHy 
attached'  to*  puUic^ibuses,  >.and  places  of  entertain- 
ment*.  -•  ..      :-    i-.i.      ..       .    .    w^     '. .     , 

-pinners' land 'Tallow  Chandlers^-Hallsr  on«the  west 
side  of  ^Dowgate-Hill,  are  both  handsome  structures. 
The  intariqr  buildings  of  th^Jatler,. which  include  a 
smali  court,  hai^  an  arcade  of  the^Xi^can  order,  and  a 
fountain  in  th^  centre.  < 

In  TurtrjoheeULanic,  winding  from  Cannon-Street, 
stood  a  vast  house,  or  palace,  called  the  Erher,  Ed- 
ward the  Third  granted  it  to  the  Scroops,  and  it  after- 


59  >yALK3   THBOUGH    LONDON*. 

wards  fdl  to  the  Nevills.  Richard^  the  great  earl  of 
Warwick,  possessed  it,  and  lodged  here  his  father,  the 
Earl  of  Salisbury,  with  five  hundred  men,  in  the  fa* 
mous  congress  of  barons,  in  the  year  1458,  in  which 
Henry  the  Sixth  may  be  said  to  have  been  virtually 
deposed.  It  often  changed  masters.  Richard  the  Third 
repaired  it,  in  whose  time  it  was  called  the  King's 
Palace.  It  was  rebuilt  by  Sir  Thomas  Pullison,  Mayor, 
in  1584;  and  afterwards  dignified  by  being  the  resi- 
dence of  Sir  Francis  Drake. 

The  church  of  St.  Swithin,  London-Stone,  is  situated 
at  the  south-west  comer  of  SwithinVLane  in  Cannon- 
Street.  The  present  edifice  was  built  by  Sir  Chris- 
topher Wren.  Before  this  church,  on  the  north  side 
of  Cannon-Street,  is  London-Stone,  the  origin  and  the 
use  of  which  are  equally  lost  in  conjecture.  This  stone 
has  been,  and  still  continues  to  be,  preserved  with  great 
care.  It  is  now  cased  with  another  stone,  cut  hollow  ; 
so  that  the  ancient  one  may  be  open  to  inspection, 
without  being  exposed  to  injury,  and  is  supposed  to 
have  been  a  Roman  milliary,  and  probably  the  stan- 
dard whence  all  the  roads  in  this  country  commenced. 

Salter* S'Hall,  at  the  back  of  this  church,  stands  on 
the  former  premises  of  the  Earls  of  Oxford,  and  near 
the  residence  of  the  infamous  Empson  and  Dudley, 
who  were  joint  panders  to  the  insatiate  avarice  of 
Henry  the  Seventh.  The  present  hall  is  a  plain  brick 
buildings  and  contains  several  pictures,  and  a  cuHous 
bill  of  fare,  framed  and  glazed,  in  the  court  room^  for 
fifty  people  of  the  company  of  Salters,  in'  the  year 
1506;  some  of  the  most  singular  items  in  this  bill  are,, 
thirty-six  chickens  charged  four  and  fivepence,  and 
one  swan  and  four  geese,  seven  shillings.  The  whole 
expence  of  the  bill  of  fare  was  1/.  ISs.  2i(L 

Westward  fn)m  St  Swithin's  church,  on  the  same 
side  of  the  way,  is  Walbrook,  a  good  street,  so  named 
from  an  ancient  brook,  or  rivulet.    This  stream,  now 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  53 

coQipletely  concealed  under  the  strjeet^  is  reported  to 
bare  been  so  rapid  in  Queen  Elizabeth's  time,  that  a 
lad,  eighteen  years  pf  age,  attempting  to  leap  it,  when 
swelled  by  the  rain,  was  carried  away  by.  the  force  of 
the  flood  and  drowned.  At  the  north-end  of  this 
street,  towards  the  Mansion  House,  we  meet  with  the 
4:elebrated  church  of  St.  StepJ$cn's,  Walbrook. 
-  Of  tbb  edifice,  a  judicious  writer  observes,  ''  Per- 
haps Italy  itself  can  produce  no  modern  building  that 
can  Tie  with  this  in  taste  and  proportion ;  there  is  not 
a  beauty  the  plan  would  admit  of  that  is  not  found 
here  in  the  greatest  perfection ;  and  foreigners  very 
justly  call  our  taste  in  question  for  understanding  the 
graces  no  better,  and  allowing  it  no  higher  degree  of 
ftme/'  This  neasoning  principally  applies  to  the  inte- 
rior, which,  in  addition  to  its  own  beauties,  contains 
Mr.  West's  fine  picture  of  the  martyrdom  of  St  Ste- 
phen, orer  the  altar. 

•  The  steeple  rises  square  to  a  considerable  height, 
and  is  then  surrounded  by  a  balustrade  within,  from 
which  a  very  light  and  elegant  tower  ascends  on  two 
stages,  the  first  adorned  with  Corinthian,  and  the 
second  with  columns  of  the  Composite  ord!er,  and 
covered  with  a  dome. .  The  roof  within,  over  the  mid- 
dle aisle,  is  arched,  and  supported  by  columns  and 
pilasters  of  the  Corinthian  order :  there  are  three  aisles 
and  a  cross  aisle,  covered  with  stone.  The  roof  and 
cupola  are  adorned  with  an  entablature,  and  arches 
<miamented  ivith  shields,  palm  branches,,  roses  of  fret 
work,  *and  pannels  of  crocket  work.  The  walk  are 
wainicotted  ten  feet  high,  having  the  Grocers'  arms 
within  a  l^andsome  compartment  of  palm  branches.  At 
the  north  end  of  the  cross  aisle  is  a. door  case  beauti- 
fully decorated  with  various  kinds  of  fruits  and  leaves, 
and  at  the  west  end  another,  very  magnificent.  On 
the  sides,  under  the  lower  roofs,  are  only  circular  win- 
dows; but  those  which  enlighten  the;  upper  roofs  are. 


54  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON: 

BOiaU  arched  oneg,  and  three  nohle  ones  at  the  end. 
IThe  appearance  of  the  whole  edifice,  upon  the  first  en* 
trance,  has  a  very  striking  efiect,  the  eye.  heing^  at- 
tracted* by  every*  part  at  once;  the  bases  of  the  cbluhxnis 
excefjted,  which  are  iqjildicibudy  concealed  by  tife 
carving  on  the  tops  of*  the  pews.  The  altor-piec^  oM 
the  pulpit  are  'eqoally  fine.  It  is  freely  nebessary'to 
say  tlifftt  the  whole  has  been  esteemed' the  master-pitee 

bfSirCbHst6phef>¥ren.   »    .i .  -   f 

^  The  dtnteusivniSi  of  tbii  church'  are;  IcAigtli  sevtoty^ 
fiveftet,  breadch-fi{i!y-six;'altitoae<if*Uientiddl6'hMf 
thirty*fonr feet  ;^ofrtbe  cupola  iftod  lantern  fifty-eight 
feet  7  and  Of  the  tower,  in  which  are  thfeeMli;  totiM 
lop  of  the  rail  Ud  banister,  aU«ui  seventy  f<iet '  '  * 
The'Mtmsibn  House,  die  temporary  residence  of  till 
Lord  Mayors  of  London;  liatomU^clitos  c^iattentiflM 
89  the  hekt  <A»ject  of  nd^:  ^Tbis  ^ifice  is  <fbnstructed 
of  Portland  stone,  and  was  finished  in*  175$;.  Thepdirf 
ticb  is^  supported*  by  «ix  lofly^'fltiOed'  cdiiui'ns,  l>f  the 
Cbrihthiah  ordbr;  the' same  orBer  tiei)]g 'c4»Httooed'1tt 
thcpilasters,  both  under  the  pecfimeril  ^d  on  each  side^. 
The  basement  'story'  Is  irery  ttias^y'tfnd  Miih-'fti  mstic. 
In  the  ectitre  of  this*fitofyisHhe  doof >rbi^h  '?e«ls'toth« 
kitehens;  cellars,  amd  other  offices;  ^d  ineftehrsMe  raai 
«  fiigbtof  itdps^^of  very.qobsiderahle^eitt^ntj  leadittg^ip 
fo  the  portirco;  and'tii^  colutnbk  tWhich  We  wtdught 
fcithe  propbi^iontt'of  FaTlddio) Buf»poit'a large Yegul&f 
pedifltedt;  adoilied  trith  ^  f«ry  Vk>bU  pie«^  hi  bkAs^fi^Utf, 
#qpV^Athig  the  >dHgnity  add  dt^uleoci'  Of  Ih^^city  Vtf 
Lbddort:  Bi^heaih  the  Y^^^rtieo  ate  ^ two  laries^  of  W^ 
dows,  which  dxtc^d 'along  the  whtJe  fttmati  ^^t^^kmt 
this  is  ao^attic"  story;  itith  sqnarrwlbd6w«,'^croWhed 
with  a<  balustrade.'  The  building  tis  ahr  dbloi^,^^a^^ 
depth  i&  the'  K>tig'0idi»7'ft  faa>  an  aVea  ib  thtf'ttliddltf ) 
atfd  at  the  Ynf thebt ^nd  is  the  Egyptiah  hair,  Wh1cb'f» 
th^kflgth  Of  th^fronf>  very  high,  add  desi^iftd  fdf'potii 
tit entcttaimneiiU;  "Near the €n^,  it'eachsidb,  h a Wih^ 


WALKS  TBIOUGH    LONOOIT.  55 

dow  of  extraordinary  height,  placed  between  coupled 
Corinthian  pilasters,  and  extending  to  the  top  of  the 
attic  story.  The  inside  apartments  and  offices  are  very 
Uegmtiy-fbrtiished ;  rtid  the  bas-^retief,  over  the  grand 
^Msdimeut;  is  finely  designed,and  arbeautifhny  exednted, 
^e  prhicipal  figure  of  which'  t'eptesetitrthe  Oenias  of 
the  city  of  London  in  tfie  dress*  of  the  gbddess  C^ie, 
clothed  with  the'impetia)  robe,  alluding  to  l:6ndon  being 
the  capital  of  thlrf  kingdonfi'',  wilh  it  cit>wif  of  turrets  on 
Mfr  head,'iiif  h^rti]ghtiiaindh'olditrg  the  p^astofiah  wand> 
^ndleabing' with  her  left  'oh'the  city  arnn.  Sh6  is'  pla- 
iNfd  bettrteti*twt>  piltai^r  dr  cohimns,  t(f  etpVess  the  sta- 
Mlit^  bf her cdbdition/'j  anAonher ti^ hiind ^tandrh 
taked  bby,  iHth' the  faces' in  oAe  hand;  and  the 
Wort  WHth '  th^'  tip  -of  tibeit^  nipon  it •  ill  the  dihek-, 
to  shew  that  authority  ahd  josti^e  ai^' the  true  ^sup- 
yotierst^  liberty,  and  that  nvbile  the  former  are  ex- 
4srcdll  ilith  vigour  th^laftterwill'tontio'ue  in  a  state  of 
youth.  At  her  febt  lier Faction,'  as  it  werehi  agoi^, 
With'sifdces  tirihin^  round  h^r  Head,  fntiiAatin'g  that 
the  exact 'gov^ribmeot  of  this  city  not  only  preserves 
tKhelf,  but  f^torts'juit  putiiSh A^nt  on  su'ch^envy  hex 
happy  l!Okidilio»:  "Id  the'grtupv  farther  to  the righf, 
the  chief  figure  represents  a  Biver  God,  his  head 
Cri^ned'With  Hags  and  Ais&es/liis  b^ai-d  long,  a'  rud- 
derin  his  rr^ht'hand,  and  his  left'arm  leaning  on  'kn 
urn,  which  pours  Ibrth  a  copious  stream.  The  swan 
W  hU^fiefet,  sheWs  this  to  hi  theThaoies}  th*  ship  be- 
fahid;  aAd  the  andidr  and  ^able  belbW  him,  vei^y  emplm- 
lically  ex^td^  th^  ini^hty  tribute  of  ri^es  paid  by  the 
Coilltnerce  of  thte  il^er* to  the  dty  to  >which  it  -bdohgs. 
On  the  left  hand  there  appears  a  figure  of  ai^eautiPcd 
W^M,  \h  r htilnUe  pbsture;  presenting  an  ornament 
off>ei{rls  withoni  hand,' iindpouriilg  but  a  nSIiM  vm?* 
ky  of  richesfrbm  acoAiucopia,  cfr  born  of  plei&ty,  with 
dte1otfaef.''%eUnd'her''i^*&' stork;'  atidtWo  x^ked'boys 
playing  with  each  other,  and  holding  the  neck  of  fb"^ 


5G  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

«tork,  to  signify  that  pity^  brotherly  !ote,  and  matual 
afiection»  produce  and  secure  the  vast  stock  of  wealth 
of  various  kinds  which  appears  near  them  in  bales^  hagi» 
hogsheads,  and  many  other  sorts  of  merchandizes  and  * 
ediblems  of  commerce.  The  building  is  an  oblong  of 
vast  extent,  and  the  west  side  is  adorned  with  two  noble 
windows,  between  coupled  Corinthian  pilasters :  still 
much  of  the  interior  is  uncomfortably  dark. 

The  situation  of  the  Mansion  House,  upon  low 
ground,  has  been  generally  condemned ;  it  being  self- 
evident  that,,  with  a  more  elevated  situation  and  a  good 
area  around  it,  the  grandeur  of  its  appearance  would  have 
been  considerablyimproved.  The  interior  may  be  seen 
to  the  greatest  advantage  when  the  balls  are  given  at 
Easter,  or  at  any  other  time  when  the  apartment,  called 
the  Egyptian  Hall,  is  occupied. 

Proceeding  to  the  eastward,  at  a  small  distance  from 
the  Mansion  House,  we  come  to  the  church  oiSt.  Mary 9 
,  Woolnoth,  so  called  from  the  ancient  wool-staple  in  thia 
neighbourhood.  The  present  structure,  like  many 
other  churches  in  London,  disfigured  by  the  a^JAcent 
bouses,  was  built  in  1719:  it  is  very  substantial,  but 
possesses  nothing  remarkable  either  in  the  interior  or 
exterior. 

The  General  Post  Office,  in  Lombard-Street^  is  another 
of  those  public  buildings  in  which  utility  has  been  pre- 
ferred to  every  consideration  of  appearance;  but  as 
this  is  intended  to  be  moved  to  a  new  edifice,  soOn  to  be 
built  in  St.  MartinVlfc-Grand,  we  shall  pass  by  the  pre- 
sent, considering  any  details  of  its  internal  economy 
and  regulations  out  of  place  in  a  Pictorial  Description 
of  London. 

With  a  much  more  pleasing  exterior  than  that  of  the 
General  Post  Office,  proceeding  to  the  corner  of  Ab- 
church -Lane,  we  perceive  the  Phccnix  Fire  Office,  and 
nearly  opposite  to  Abchurch-Lane,  the  Pelican  Life 
Office. 


WALKB  TRBOUGH   LONDON.  i7 

The  yery  striking  and  beautiful  ornament  of  emble- 
matical figures  which  decorates  the  front  of  the  build- 
ing is  much  admired,  and  is  placed  on  the  cornice  of 
the  fine  atone  front ;  a  specimen  of  the  most  correct 
architecture^  and  considered  as  a  master-piece  of  the 
late  Sir  Robert  Taylor.  The  ideas,  upon  which  the 
group  was  founded,  were  taken  from  the  elegant  pencil 
of  Lady  Diana  Beauclerk,  and  were  executed  at  Coade's 
manufactory  by  M.  De  V44re,  a  most  ingenious  artist. 
The  recumbent  figure  at  the  east  end  has  been  particu- 
briy  admired  for  its  graceful  attitude  and  anatomical 
conectnesa. 

Lombard-Street  contained  the  house  and  the  shop  of 
ihe  truly  patriotic  Sir  Thomas  Gresham,  whose  origi< 
oal  sign,  as  a  grocer,  was  the  Grasshopper.  The  site 
of  bis  residence  is  now  occupied  by  that  of  Messrs. 
Martin  and  Co.  bankers.  Here  also  stood  an  ancient 
tarem  built  by  Sir  Simon  Eyre,  called  the  Cardinal's 
Has  ;  but  for  what  reason  this  appellation  was  given* 
is  now  unknown.  Here  also,  as  a  goldsmith,  lived  Mr. 
Matthew  Shore,  whose  wife  (since  called  Jane  Shore) 
beeame  the  unhappy  concubine  of  the  licentious 
Edward  the  Fourth. 

Returning  to  Comhill,  through  Papers  Head  AUej/, 
the  abode  of  stock-brokers,  notaries,  and  mercantile 
persons,  we  may  observe  that  this  was  formerly  occu- 
pied by  a  vast  stone  building,  a  temporary  residence  of 
some  of  the  ancient  kings,  as  it  reached  to  the  western 
ai^e  of  the  street,  and  was  distinguished  by  the  arms 
of  England^  before  they  were  quartered,  supported  by 
two  angels.  Another  division  of  this  structure,  was  the 
Pqie's  Head  Tavern,  fronting  Lombard-Street.  Stow, 
in  accounting  for  the  origin  of  this  remote  mass  of 
building,  seems  to  have  imagined  that  it  belonged  to 
King  John. 


58  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 


WALK  IV. 

From  Comhill  to  the  PouUry.  JUtum  to  the  Bank, 
Bartholomew-Lane,''  Lathbury,  Coleman-Street,  the 
London  Institution,  Moorfields,  London-Wall,  Broad^ 
Street  Buiidings,  and  Austin  Friars,  back  t&  ComkOL 

Tbe*  Poultry,  pro^i^yVo  called,  is-the  street  extendC- 
ing  from  the  Mansion  House  to  the  end  of  Chettpaider^ 
formerly,  when  this  was  occupied  by  poCdterera' 
at^k,  there  warl  place  callM  Scalding^Alky;yfbett 
fowls  were  scalded,  previoua  to  their  being^ofiered^fbr 
sale ;  ibis  was  on  th^  sfte  of  St;*  Mildired's-Coiict.  '■•'  ' 

"Happily  thfe  dffeary  ^Arison,  called' 'the -PoitWy- 
Ompter,  has  *bleeii'  taken  down,  'ifnd  the'pnscmers  re^ 
moiried  to  a*  more '  healthfhl' sitoatitm  in  Whitecro8»» 

Streit.    •■•''.       •      •  ••»      • 

'  TH^  unprevedetited  multlphcatibir  and  ^hlargemeUt 
bf  pHsons  duKng  the  recent  inctcase  6f  commerce wA 
opulence,  offer  a  striking  contrast  with  the  paucity  of 
thosfe  in  ttAtfe'rtitAe^.  "  '   '*  .  '    •  '       -  ^..•*. ,  .m 

A  Single  gaol  in  Alfred's  (s^MeD  raigB/    ,      «  v» 

,1  .«#     •  >  €o^)dil^4lle  nation's  criminals  contain; 
Fair  Justice  then  witboat  constraint  ador'd, 
Hel4  ^igb  the  stead|^  scale,  bat  sbeath'd  tbe  sword  } 
No  spies,  were  paid,  no  special  jaries  known :—  ' 
'   Blest  age!  bnt,  dh!  how  diff'rent  from  ofur  own! 

St.  Mildred't  Church  is-in  the  street  called  the 
Poultry,  teid  Wa^  reliuiie  lifter  '^b  ^i^al  fire  in  1676. 
The  present  ^difi^e  is  of  stone,  with  a  flat  quadrangular 
roof,  supported  by  columns  and  pilasters  of  the  lottil^ 
order :  the  floor  is  paved  with  Purbeck  stone,  and  the 
chancel  with  a  mixture  of  the  same  stone  and  black 


.  H.     .1   •Mj*  'ii,t  Ji-*'  ■»:•.« I 


»  III.. »     .11  -  '. . 


1. ;:■]'«»>'- 

:lt      :      \Vu:l   .i    'l.t 


IV,7'^  ^/^ 


TMT?  K«V  YOKK 

pr^iC  LIBRARY 


TNJM 


\om» 


WALKS  THROUGH   I.ONDOI9.  59 

marble.      The  roof  has  a  circle  with  a  quadrangle 

formed  by  fret  fmd  crockets  work;  the  south  front, 

facing  the  Poultry,  is  adorned  with  a  cornice,  pediment 

and  kcroters;  with  eBTicfaments  of  leaves,  &c.  cut' In 

flitone.'  The  hileri<nP  is  very  handmne,:  though  iherino* 

bttmehti'  are  few  and  bf '*liCtleim^)ortaacei    The-stone 

tower,  about  seventy-five  fbet*  in  hbigfat,  ir  crowned 

With  1ft  cnfiola;  tUe  Vane  Af  whi^  i^' a  «faip  half  riggjM. 

'   Betumhig  towards  ^omhfll,*t]!ib'BafiJk  qfEngkM 

\fin  now  b^  the  ftret  object'bf  notice. '  Thik  spacious 

^tte*  of  bliUdingft  occupy 'an  'avea  of  ^n^irregular  tetn, 

booadM  oh' the  sobtit  sid€ 'by'Threaddeed9e«Stt-det;  on 

tfa^wimby  Primrei^-Street,  on  ttte  tiorth  by  Lothhv^, 

and  on  the  east  by  St.  Bartholomevr's-Latitt    'The 

whole ''circuit'* coAtains*  nine'  open  'icwirts,**  a'^padous 

tlDtufMla,  court  atod  ci^ifamitlee  itt6m8,'iiAinerou9'puUlc 

oftces,  a  printing  oflM,  library,  '&c.*  besides  various 

ffrlvate  upartnieitits^  for  life  i^'incipal  offlceib  andtep- 

^limr.' '  Tfa^  ccbtre;  or  the  principid  Moth  ftont,?:dc>- 

f«Aditig*aboiVt  eifbiyfeet;'!^  4n  the' Ionic Atdcri  ^d 

Mis'A^bold'^nAfclatur^.    In  the*  Made' tf  the  wings, 

the  4rchitect,  Sir  Hobert?  TayW,  Baa  iBtroaucedCorin- 

tUafi'  cohiittUs  fkited  afiil  j^hetoon^;  <  ari^ed'  in 

t>air«  tflobg  the  whole' front;  aM  supporting  d  ](>edhnMlt 

tit*  each  "esetreniity,  With  a^bahistirfldedT'ebtaftylatttire. 

Atkhed  teteAiiy  in"tfa«  't>lace  of  windowl/  form'  the 

Itfttfc6hidiii1M6tts;'  linid  tiftlle  t^^AkpiftUifi^f'Cieft 

ptodibient  is 'jt  buA,  WitMn'a  l!ilietfldr^niche:^4ln  r6- 

C&His,  at  »ech  «nd;  zte  ii)  the  same  kyM  '  It*!^  p^- 

iMps;  ih^<«libM'to  fo)1n''hii''Sideqdbr^id«a  of*  the 

interior  of  the  Bflttkk,  ^hdut'th^  flnr<l«6f  a*  grbund-plib. 

Thr)prilic!pi^eiitranc6trt)hi  ThrHidndelUle-StreeC  opens 

iQr'a  large^^chtid  gat^ay,  UttBTdf  sAfllfier^frahdet^h 

i^eh  side,  kdo  a  qifBdMn|^i»&i''pfiv«d  i^btot;  ^^H^fdi 

ttlf'thfe  l^gtidlAg-^eiMtiiiMfictftibhs^  ft^  ^hntMA.  ^^Tbe 

ttH^'Me^bVty&tK^ldas  tO'tfce  Retrifidd^  Aellinte 

^Cenl.  I^it  FoUi^^V  Cedt; dfeBittdc  SCb^k  «Alo6, 


60  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

the  Three  per  Cent  Consob,  the  Dividend,  the  Un- 
claimed Dividend  offices,  and  through  the  latter  com* 
municates  with  the  new  entrance  into  Lothbury.  By 
this  disposition  of  the  avenues  the  inconveniences 
occurring  to  persons,  who  are  obliged  to  pass  through 
the  crowded  Rotunda  to  the  Three  per  Cent  Consol 
office,  is  completely  done  away. 

The  principal  suite  of  apartments  is  on  the  ground 
floor,  beneath  which^  and  even  below  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  there  is.  more  building  and  a  greater  number 
of  rooms  than  in  the  entire  superstructure.  At  the  west 
end  of  the  Pay  hall,  is  the  statue  of  King  William,  by 
Cheere,  with  a  Latin  inscription,  intended  as  a  compli- 
ment  to  that  monarch. 

The  clock,  recently  fitted  up,  and  made  by  .Messrs. 
Thwaites  and  Reid  of  Rosamond-Street,  Clerkenwell,  is 
a  most  ingenious  piece  of  mechanism,  intended  to  ob« 
viate  the  inconvenience  from  clocks  difiering  with  each 
other  several  minutes,  which  can  never  be  the  case  with 
this ;  as  the  hands  on  the  dials,  in  the  difierent  offices, 
are  all  moved  by  the  same  machine,  whether  that  be 
right  as  to  time,  or  faster  or  slower  than  the  true  time. 
The  whole,  of  the  communication  is  carried  on  by 
means  of  brass  rods,  making  in  the  whole  about  seven 
hundr^  feet,  and  weighing  between  six  and  seven 
hundred  weight.  The  principal  weight  to  this  clock  is 
between  three  and  four  hundred  weight,  and  it  is  wound 
up  twice  a-week;  and  besides  shewing  the  time  on  six* 
teen  dial  plates,  this  clock  strikes  the  hours  and  quarters 
on  very  lai^  bells,  so  as  to  denote  the  time  to  those 
offices  that  are  without  the  dial-plates. 

The  entrance  on  the  Lothbury  side  exhibits  a  singu- 
lar, ye\  interesting  display  of  architectural  designs,  after 
some  of  the  best  specimens  of  Greece  and  Rome.  From 
the  return  on  the  west  side,  in  Princes-Street,  to  the 
east,  in  Bartholomew-Lane,  the  architectural  masses  are 
of  similar  character;  both  theorder  and  theformsbavipg 


jif^ 


•  !.■»' J»l!^.'     .      • 


.  .  .*[  its  »>atii''  tron«  tbc  bouv.  n'   n;i  W  ij-.'-n  *'**ii»5'' 


^     " 


WALKS  TBEOUGB   LONDON.  61 

been  copied  from  the  Temple  of  the  Sybils,  at  Tiiroli. 
Slrengtb  and  security  were  the  first  objects  to  be  ob- 
tained ;  but  at  the  same  time,  the  monotonons  insipi- 
dity of  an  immense  line  of  wall  has  been  Judiciously 
retieved  by  projecting  entrances,  blank  windows,  &c. ; 
the  fonner  being  under  lofty  archways,  and  orna- 
mented by  Corinthian  columns  fluted,  with  an  enta- 
blatare  and  turrets  above.  The  grand  portico,  at  the 
BOith-west  angle,  consists  of  a  raised  basement  and 
eight  fluted  columns  disposed  semicircularly,  and  sup« 
porting  a  very  highly-enriched  frieze  and  attic,  with  a 
turret  above ;  the  whole  having  the  appearance  of  a 
temple.  Mr.  Soane  has  been  the  architect  of  all  the 
principal  improvements  in  and  about  the  Bank,  from 
the  year  1788  to  the  present  time. 

Proceeding  up  Bartholomew-Lane,  at  the  comer  op- 
posite the  Royal-Exchange,-  we  observe  St  Bartholo- 
mew's church,  rebuilt  in  1679.  The  top  of  the  square 
tower  has  rather  an  unusual  appearance ;  and  being 
crowned  with  arches  instead  of  turrets,  though  sup- 
ported by  pillars  of  the  Corinthian  order,  it  has  a 
very  uncoutii  appearance.  The  front  is  raised  above 
the  rest  of  the  body  by  a  ^hort  square  elevation, 
with  a  large  arched  window  over  the  great  door ;  but 
the  interior,  particularly  the  altar-piece  and  the  pul- 
pit, are  richly  adorned. 

At  the  northern  extremity  of  Bartholomew-Lane, 
paftly  in  Throgmorton-Street,  stands  the  AticHon  Mart. 
This  edifice,  which  grew  out  of  the  late  increased  sales 
by  auction,  has  been  considered  '*•  as  ofiering  a  speci** 
men  of  architecture,  simply  elegant  and  highly  credita- 
ble to  a  young  artist,  who,  without  profuse  ornament,  has 
given  his  design  the  characteristicsof  a  national  edifice.'' 
This  institution  was  opened  in  March,  1810. 

The  Stock'^Exchange  is  opposite  ^the  east  entrance  to 
the  c  Bank,  at  the  upper  end  of  Capel-Court,  which 
derired  its  name  from  the  house  of  Sir  William  Capel, 


QSt  VTALM  THAOUGH   LOKDO](. 

firoDied  .:^itb|ii^<y3^;|^ftl^.jLUAo  «toiy«,wWc|i  ii  of  iwkk* 
0)^  efecu4  iR.  IgQJi,  by.  M^^  Japdcy  K^^ftcpckib^  ardun 

amo^g^  the  g|[\pqp9f..8U)^-jl>r<)j|f:er«  ofu40/.  triaisferable 
il^fey.  No  jM9||fq][i  is  allowed  to  jt^anHic^.btiftuieM  here 
uiQ^^  b^loM/pj;.Viii|i^y..)>ir  ^^^owmt^:  peMm 
89,  cho«{ji../iu^^iJ>fi  tes^-guig^  ^cftcbu.  Und^r.tfaie 
dodc,  at-.thftifi^utji  end^^w  MiHeV'  fxWbilinft.iJie 
^ai^ef.oC  8Hq^  ^fsf^ulter^  a^  A^ave^pQjt.tieeii  ibk,  pr  njjyi* 
iflig^  |o  m^:tt|eir  jMiyiacya^  g^i,  for  the  fivnel^^  01^ 
traoitfer  of  ,§tock,  and  wI^q.  ar$,  qo^  allpW^.lo.beQfmic; 
mefnbj^n  aqy.  n^pr^,  .P^Ah^.^ia^  «ide«  ^  .recesai  J8,|kp- 
P59PF>S^  4orthefipmqwwoii!?i^,)feiP.th€jEUd«aV|i©^ 
the  National  debt,  who  n^ake  their  purchasesfour'timea 
awedk.  .  Thq,lH;MKft.<>f.bu8i^c;^.  b^re  uejnm  tmito 
fpuTf  ai^  thece  j|r^^  thie^  en^aQC<8  ,he»ide8  .that,  ji^ 

CflPslrpWVj  .    .,. -^ 

,XH*(i/^j'-^/'f— Thi%  ^  8it|iated,  in  Thrqgmortoii.- 

qn^the  8ite  of  ^la^gejqwsJkm,  th^  re^deupe  ^  Crom^ 
wey«.£9xl  9f.£|»$ff»  in  ti^«  reign  ;9f  tiepry.  the  Eighth^ 
and.afUr  bi8  disgrace,  wm  purobafvsd  iiy  the  DniperB* 
The  .present  e^Gsfi  coi^t^ips^A^paciMtf  i|tiadr»ogfe 
inclfsing  ao.«open,CQiir|,^whicb  hjn.a  tirpad.|>iaz3a# 
or  ambulatory,  round  it,  and.^exhibitft.  a. scries  «a( 
a^che^, . ei^iipb^ .  if tth ,  boos' .  hqads, .  and. other;  sculp* 
ti}^^qr;)aiQeipjU,,9j|d^p\)Mtgrs. ..  Tbe^uibUngs  ;sc«^ 
cJ^eflx^ofj  pi^c]^'^^  but  .tb^jjrontvj  aivL  wtfni»e«r  into 
Tl^/y^ojtq^-^^^^  V?.  highly  enriched  jKitlk^stp^a 
orpam^nts,  ,ai^,  1w:j^.^  ^r  of^  jnucJigelegance.  w^Oxer 
^  8fJ^W9y  i«  a.l«rge;ifii^ptoreo£  thcLSrap^r<  Anns^ 
supported  .by  iions  instead  Af  leopards. .  A  cornice  and 
frieze,  the  .latter , display ing^.lilH^^  beads,  cams' ;bQads, 
&e.  in  small  circles,  with  ? arious  other  architectural 
decosrations,  are  also  exhibitsd  on  this  front.  .The 
hall,  properly  so  called,  occupies  the  eastern  side  of  the 


wacRs  TinoD€B  coimoiff.  O 

qn^nbgle,.  tbe  aaoenliidiig  by  an.lekgmt  fltai&case, 
cmred,  luglily -einbellniied  witfi  fUicoo,  giUing,  &c.. 
withabatt  of  hispcanitniajeaty^  ..The stately  scnen 
of  UiU  magnificent  apartment  i&.ciirioady  dccoMted 
irit^  Cwed  pinan,  pilasters,  and  arehes ;  and  the  ceiln 
log  is  divided  into  numeront  pompartinents,  .mostly 
cireukr,  'dispkiyin|r,  in  the  centre,  ^  rquesentation.  of 
PhflDton'in  his.  car^  with  the  agnsofjtbe  Zodiac  and 
wious  other  enfichments^  and  abore  this  screen,  at 
theopposite  end  of  Ihfe  b^ll,  is  a  very  mi^/tetij  pictoie 
of  the  immortal.  iNelson,  .by  Sit  William  .Be^y,.  fgop 
which  the  coQipany  gave  four  hundred  pounds. 

Pisung  on  either  side  of  the  Bank.to  ^he  northoasd, 
iHg  coiiie  to  ixiM0iay,.9o called  from  the  residence.of 
some  person  named  Loih,  probably  of  Danish  or  Saxon 
origin.  In  Slow's  tiine,  it  was  the, abode, of.  bntt- 
foiinden,'  who  cast  tiuidlestrcks,  chaffing-dishes,  mor- 
tars>  &c. ;  of  late  it  has  been  the  scite  of  warehouses, 
atid  the  offices  of  large  dealers.'  The  church  of  St  Mai> 
garet  Lodibury,  is  of  fine  stone,  neat  and  plain,  and  in 
length  abcNitsixty  feet,)he breadth  sixty-four.  Tlie  pHn- 
c^al  door  is  qroameDtedwith^Corinthian  cplmnnd,s«p* 
portmg  an  angular  pediment,  an4  ihe  tower  is  tehni- 
nai^  by  a  smalt  dotoe  anda  slender  spire.  -  The^fant 
in  this  chnrcKh  beauUfuSy  designed,  and. exhibits 
some  exqaisite  carved'  work  •frbmscripture  history.'    ?. 

lA  tbt  northern  extremity  of  Lothbtrryis  Token 
Ihuie  Yard,  so  named- froth  an  old- bouse,  which  was 
an  office  for  the  delivery  ^f  tradesmen^  fiirthings  or 
tokens,  a-kind  of  unantborized  copper,  which,  how^er^ 
kept  its  ^eund,  with  very  little  intermisftlon,  till  the 
year  1673,  a  period  when  fardnngs,  propelrly  so  called, 
were^first  issued  by  govertunent. 

Fornnden'-Hali,  in  Lothbury,  is  rented  by  a  res- 
pect^lte  congregation  of  Protestant  Bissenters,  and 
has  been  used  as  a  meet^g^bouse  for  upwards  of  a 
century. 


04  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. ' 

.  Coleman*Street  is  an  avenue  of  considerable  lengtbi 
running  towards  London- Wall  and  Fore-Street 

King's  Arms  Yard,  in  Coleman-Street>  has  been  of 
some  notoriety  within  the  few  years*  since  the  London 
Institution  was  moved  there  from  the  Old  Jewry :  it 
contains  several  other  good  houses. 

On  the  west  side  of  this  street,  towards  the  south 
end*  stands  .the  church  of  St.  Stephen,  erected  about 
finir  years  afler  the  five,  and  has  a  very  extensive  roof, 
without  a  single  piilar  to  support  it.  The  steeple  is  a 
square  tower,  crowned  with  a  lantern,  which  has  four 
faces.  On  the  north  side  is  the  church-yard,  and  on 
the  south  a  large  pavement  that  covers  a  burial  vault, 
the  whole  length  of  the  church,  and  to  this  there  is  an 
ascent  by  several  steps,  over  which  a  striking  repre- 
sentation of  the  general  resurrection  is  cut  in  stone. 

Armourert^  and  Brazien'^Hall  stands  near  the  north- 
east comer  of  Coleman-Street,  towards  Fore-Street: 
the  principal  ornament  of  the  interior  of  this  building 
is  the  fine  painting,  by  Northcote,  of  the  entry  of 
Richard  the  Second  and  Henry  Boliogbroke,  after- 
wards Henry  the  Fourth,  into  London*  purchased  by 
the.  Company,  in  May  1805. 

Crossing  Fore*Street,  inclining  a  little  to  the  rights 
and  approaching  the  site  of  the  new  square  in  Moor- 
fields,  we  perceive  The  New  London  Inathution.  This 
distinguished  monument  of  our  national  improvement 
in  science  rites  to  the  view,  fronting  the  site  of 
the  ancient  Bethlem  Hospital.  Hie  elegant  stone 
front,  looking  to  the  south,  is  of  considerable  extent, 
decorated  with  pilasters  of  the  Corinthian  order, 
wreaths,  &c.  surmounted  with  a  balustrade.  A  large 
projection  of  brick  building  from  the  centre  of  the 
back  front,  seems  designed  for  the  offices  and  the 
laboratory.  The  wings,  &c.  are  not  yet  completed; 
but  the  whole,  when  finished,  will  cover  a  considerable 
piece  of  ground. 


04  WALKS  THROUGH   LONOON.' 

Co)eman*Street  is  an  avenue  of  considerable  lengthy 
nuining  towards  London- Wall  and  Fore-Street 


■  '  .     t  f  '  .'K.      !   • 

II'     •■•>.;         '     ■ 
'        I   *.         ' 

«.'  r  >  !,.  *  I  IK"-  :-  ..  1 
:     .H  I  ».•   .  1   .     .1).;. 

••   '     -  *    •:  '  '  ^ 
u.  1..      t  _  -.1  i- 


TUPfeHfCy 


ft 


WALKS  TRRODGR   LOITDOIV.  -65 

Itetoftiing  by  the  toutb-west  comer  of  Moorfields, 
lo#ftrds  London  Wall,  we  pass  the  chapel,  newly 
erected^  for  a  ^Congregation  of  DiBsehters  from  Miles*- 
Ldlne,  Cannon^Street.  It  is  a  building  saperior  lo 
Most  of  thb  dhss }  and  is  in  form,  a  kind  of  oblongi  with 
lihfflk  waHs  on  the  sidesj  but  lighted  with  a  number  df 
semi-circular  windows  near  the  top.  The  dome>  corered 
with  copper,  is  crowned  with  a  small  lantern.  The 
principal  entrance,  towards  Fore-Street,  is  embellished 
by  a  handsome  portico  of  considerable  height,  sup- 
ported by  Ionic  and  Corinthian  columns,  with  a  pedi- 
ment.   The  vestry  is  at  the  back  of  the  building. 

Proceeding  along  London  Wall,  to  the  eastward,  we 
come  to  the  church  of  Alt-HMaws,  in  a  very  con* 
tracted  space,  in  the  shape  of  a  wedge,  the  east  end 
being  the  broadest  part.  The  present  edifice  was 
erected  by  Mr.  Joseph  l*aylor,  ft-om  plans  by  Mr, 
Dance,  the  late  city  architect.  At  the  west  end  ts  the 
only  entrance  folr  the  congregation,  under  A  handsome 
stone  tower,  surmounted  by  an  elegant  cujpol^ 

Codsidersbty  to  the  right,  and  on  tti^  south  sfde 
of  this  streetj  is  Catpeniers'-Hatf,  no^  t-ented  as  a 
carpet  and  rug-warehouse.  The  entrance  to  the  pre«^ 
mises  is  under  a  large  arch,  with  four  Corinthian  pi]« 
Ian  at  th^  sidts,  and  bver  the  Centre  is  a  host  of  Inigo 
Jonesj  and  the  antis  of  the  Gotnpaqy.  Within  a  plea* 
stot  areSi  ifatenedled  by  jgravel-walke  and  grass-plats^ 
is'the  part  used  as  the  haU»  consisting  of  a  Doric  basii* 
inent>  and  porttco<es  at  each  end,  supporting  a  rustic 
iloryi  oiteamehtfed  with  cornices  and  pediments.  The 
original  roof  was  of  oak,  which  has  long  given  place  tO 
a  flinccoM  cailihgi  hahdsobiely  d9co#ated* 

Continuiilg  out  walk  eastward,  and  f>roceediQg 
tbiMgh  Winehaier^Street,  from  London* Wall,  ana^» 
um  passage  kads  to  Austin  Friai^,  onoe  the  superb 
ivfefdenoe  of  an^ofder  of  the  Aaguatiilesi  add  still  di»* 
Cinguished  by  the  lofty  and  spacious  remains  of  their 


G6  IRTALIU   THROUGH    LONDON. 

church.  The  sides  of  this  venerable  pile;  or  rather  those 
of  the  choir,  are  supported  by  t^o  rows  of  stone  pihMters 
or  buttresses,  and  the  buildings  still  retains  its  antique 
windows  much  in  the  same  state  as  when  re-edified  in 
1351  by  Humphry  Bohun,  Earl  of  Hereford.  The 
large  western  window  is  here  represented  in  the  wood 
engraving* 


'  This  edifice  has  long  heen  used  as  a  DtUch,  and  not 
B  German  church,  and  is  served  by  two  ministers^ 
who  preach  twicecvery  Sunday,  and  once  in  the  wedc. 
They  exchange  churches  every  first  Scinday  in  the 
month  with  the  Walloon  or  French  congregation  in 
Threadneedle-Street,  on  account  of  their  building  be- 
ing too  small. 

At  the  east  end  of  the  church  in  Austin  Friavs,  a 
large  platform  contains  a  long  table  with  seats,  for 
the  purpose  of  receiving  the  sacrament  The  Butch 
ministers  have  good  salaries,  and  a  decent  maintmanoe 
is  provided  for  their  widows  by  theooDgre|;atsoD«  who 


♦  «  iirr    -J**!*.  ?•:.,-.      .  (*••  i.  :*     .       I     ,  «  .  ^ 

r'  t .J. 

•i*  «■»        *   ■«!-  .•».'♦    .1*  .  14.^, 

:          ••»:•.      >.f       »     ,'          a    ^t'**       ••  «.•      I       ■  •»       '.»          *        ' 

•      "•••     •!'                                    .      '/«ll    ♦■%■>•                 rt  «          ■•     .,    *  .«t.v 

.•        V.  .\-       *    •                                    •                 •        .           '..»■       '  '..../ 

ihc    ••«•  .   I .  n»  • «..   y'  [..'  I.  •.-"  I 

•    tilt    •       ;*,:.»>  ^,»:  '  u..  .'Mfi   tir 

-••   liic  i.*iy    .L  ••<   '•'»•<  i. 

jittiir'.iriif   tb'j*«»';r    Aiistiu  Frar-s,        .^  • 
•.''M«,  ir.  T».«    MiU«i«  .v**e!  comef  of  N^     • 
H,  oLitnt*  th«  ''ai'.aix.'.  of  \Vinchi>  *»''  J».;.i 

ivl  Marquiw  o.  Wi.R'bcsUr. 'u  I'if.  .^ ..;-:  •.  1. 
•    V  -  Ml.. 

:l*r.  .•>»■••       y»  t    appear*  wi  h  J*'j\.'^   •!  T!.--.  4 

.'..■.. i    -i»l'   ntniuihei,  uM«).;oai.:  i- .i  «   <*..  *..'.'    ..I 

:  '     .  .  '  :  (.n  i-r-evcnt  »bc  ie>rr:'  jw:.  ^  .       » •.  iits  ]  inti 
t>  •  .    .'..!».. iimyj       i'hb  ruan-.    r^ -^-  ...   »U:  jr^     :- 

.    • « ^..u  j'fjckers'. 

•  f<<     •,..  ^  to  ibe  wc^lv.  .i<l,  a;  ..  ;   I  .  ^».<i  • .  » 
•I  r.  VvtJ:.   v*v  inay  liUicf  .t  t*!-;  nl'  bt    j'tiri   n./,i 

•••J  .  ^*^,\^   f\orfian,  M»iU.  lo     ..  i    ■   '  ,  .  •^- 

'r  «;    .VholiiUl!  rtaE)illll«>  id  vM  .rii,..>.r  ..  !*   Ui'    .    •   '   » 

•»    jifHKrl'.     prf>c«i.'ac*;    «,*ivva;a,  •iiv:.;   V  ..-i^i.   ..*     - 

Bailey,  to  litlk  Bridge-Slreett  md  conMnucd  to  the 
Thame*,  near  Blackfriars  BridgCr    At  pre9ent  there 


»^^ 


If'  r         ^1 


„  I 


ministers  have  good  salaries,  and  a  decent  maintenanoe 
is  provided  for  their  widows  by  tbeooDgre|;atsoD«  who 


( 


WALKS   TUftOUGR    LONDON.  67 

mpport  fievenl  aged  penoiw  of  Datch  extfaction  Id 
tbeir  altaoft-bouaet  between   UniOn^Street  afad  Loog- 
AlVey,  Moor6eld«. 

Many  peraons  of  rank  were  interred  in  this  churchy 
as  well  9B  numbers  of  the  Barons  who  fell  in  the  battle 
of  Bamet.  The  ^Ided  steeple,  which  was  standing  in 
1609,  was  so  much  admired,  that  the  Mayor,  and 
sdreral  of  the  cidzens  of  London,  petitioned  the  Mar- 
c|uis  of  Winchester  that  it  might  not  be  pulled  down ; 
but  the  petition  was  rqected,  and  this  fine  ornament 
of  the  city  demdisbed. 

Bctnming  through  Austin  Friars,  towards  Moor- 
fldds»  in  the  south-west  comer  of  Winchester-Street, 
we  obsenre  tke  feouuDi  of  Winchester  House,  built  by 
the  old  Marquis  of  Winchester,  in  the  reign  of  Edward 
the  Sixth. 

The  upper  part  of  this  fabric  is  more  modem  than 
the  lower,  yet  appears  in  a  decayed  state.  The  old 
waUs  bttll  retain  their  mullioned  windows,  surrounded 
with  quoins ;  and  strong  bars  of  iron  ar^  inserted  in  the 
bricks,  which  prevent  the  several  parts  of  the  buikiing 
from  separating.  This  mansion  has  been  in  the  occu-i 
pation  of  seteral  packers. 

Proceeding  to  the  westward,  along  the  street  of  Lon-> 
don- Wall,  we  may  observe  that  till  Bethlem  Hoq>ital 
was  lately  taken  down,  the  greatest  portion  of  the  ancient 
wdl,  partly  Roman,  visible  to  the  public,  was  to  be  seen 
here:  what  still  remains  is  of  considerable  thickness^  aid 
ransbehindthesiteof  OldBcthlem  Hospital  eastand  west. 
It  formerly  proceeded  eastward,  along  Wormwood-* 
Street,  Camomile-Street,  Shoemaker-Row,  Poor  Jewry- 
Straet,  and  Tower  Hill,  to  the  Postern.  South-westward 
it  passed  from  Cripi^egate,  by  Monkwell-Street  to  Al- 
der^gcte*Street,  along  Town  Ditch,  and  so  on  to  the  Old 
Bailey,  to  Little  Bridge-Street,  and  continued  to  the 
Thanac*,  near  Blackfriars  Bridge,    At  present  there 


€8  WALKS  tHftOUOR   LOKDOir« 

are  only  three  places  beside*  the  first  mentioned  where 
any  cimiiderahle  portion  of  this  wall  is  risMe.  The  fiftl 
of  these  is  in  Little  Bridge-Street,  a  passage  running  insi 
parallel  line  behind  Ludgate-Hill  front  Great  Bridge 
Street,  past  the  Cock  in  the  Comer  into  the  Broa^hray; 
Blackfriars.  Tbenextisonthesoothsideofthecbnichj 
yard  of  St.  Botolph^  AJdersgate^  where  Old  London 
Wall  forms  a  harrier  to  the  yards  of  the  houses  on  the 
Aorth  side  of  BuU  and  Motith-Stre^ ;  and  the  third  is 
ott  the  sonth  side  of  Cripplegate  chureh^yard,  i^hers 
also,  at  present,  are  the  appareift  remains  of  the  Ohly 
one  of  the  many  nmnd  towers,  whieh  used  to  crown 
the  wait  at  given  distances.  i     .  - 

Retnrnhig  by  (he  way  of  Coleman-IStreet,  we  obiier?e» 
Aiear  the  upper  end  of  King's  Arras  Yard,  an  extenrif« 
structure  for  the  London  Institution.  The  d^gn 
of  this  institution  is  to  promote  the  difiUsion  of  science, 
literature,  and  the  arts.  Its  views  are  at  present  coiH 
fined  to  three  objects  3  the  acquisition  of  a  ralnahlf 
sind  extensive  Ubrary-^Uie  difilisidn  of  useful  haoiN 
kdge  by  the  means  of  lectures  ai^  experimenls-^^uidi 
dio  establishment  of  a  readmg*room,  where  the  foreign 
and  domestic  journals,  and  other  periodical  worhi,  and 
the  hest  pamphlets  and  new  publications,  ar^  prodded 
fbrthe  use  of  the  ptt^rietors  and  8iibsoribeffs«  AS 
Itae  affiiirs  and  concertis  of  the  Institution  ate  direcled 
by  a  committee  of  mnHiageri)  with  the  prerident  and 
#ice-presidents. 

Crdssihg  ftx>m  Cdeman-SCreeC  to  the  Old  Jenory,  on 
ike  ea^t  side  of  this  si^eet  «re  miny  stately  houses^  built 
by  8ir'<jlhristopher  Wrefi/  as  residcftices  ibr  Sir  Bobeii 
tnaytdo,  Si>  Natiiatiiel  Herrie,  Sir  Joseph  Heme,  add 
tettetfy  oeedpied  by  the  benignant  family  of  the  Sharptf} 
William  Shatpy  an  •  cmirteflt  sargeon,  and  OtantiHa 
Sharp,  the  trnly  {ilotfs  man  and  the  patriot 
'  A  lUUnaitafy  Museum  has  beeti  fdr some timee*- 
bibited  in  the  Old  Jewry:  the  curiosities  are  inoatljr 


»     .-   V  .j 


-T   ,?:    ImI'-'- 


fi^fu/^ 


L^S^; 


□doKI 


^^r'ifs^WI  Ql^ 


Wa?l5* 


....'■•    »  ; '  ■   ... 

U  .     •.»       •  •      •♦.*    ii:»i^-»kM»        .1-,;     .,- '.  . 

*''^?.  •'•  -t»»iK,  ji^i  ;?  «•:  ii.'  'J"  .^ 

?',*1  ■     • ..%  .  *  tic  k»  . 'h  iH  ..\y-^.\    }.,,  ;  ..     •  ., .    'a 

t'U^  -••  •  r  !   •     ft/^.t  ih  :»  ^ii".' J.   t  I      #  .         '    '   •  .J, 

•    .  ^.i'«  fj#i.  l-;   .» ,^  [V  It- li'»w  %»...'."%-,  -^  .:       •.  «affci 

ix."    i   v€ry  iicat  ^.j  re.     At  thi..  c ;,«.•.  ,  i  e* .-?/»'.»  i- 


k 


m 


WALKS  TBJtOVGH    M>NI>OK»  Q9 

firoQi  Africa  and  tb^  Soutlp  Sea  island^-  Ma»y  pentpns 
viewing  these  are  induced  to  become  subscrib^rt  to  tbe 
fund. 

.GrxKon'^Jiail,  jU>  which  v.^  {proceed  thfoggh  dixmamw 
tfM88ge»  stands  upon  the  site  of  the  9>an$iop  qf  the  I^ords 
.Ktewalter.  The  <  pmient  structure  has  ]i)een  lately irfoir 
Cranled*  aod  beaalifiiUy  omamexited.  Ip  the  haU  ajre 
-portraiU  of  Sir  J.oho  Cutlerj  created  a  barpoet  io  1660  > 
4^  Sir  John  Moor,  Lord  Mayor,  1681  ^  and  Sir  J^hn 
Fleet,  Lord  Mayor,  1699.  WAliam  Pitt^  Earl  of  Chal- 
4iaiD,  and  the  $ight  Honourable  William  Pitt,  hia  won,. 
wese  both  memberB  of  the  Gi^oeen'  CoQHpany* 

^fiBOcen'^AUey  leads  us  back  to  the  Poultry. 


WALK  V. 

JVosi  ike  Mantum-House,  thtou^  WaUtrook,  Mi  Dom- 
goie-Hill,  T^mes'Street,  Bread-Sirtfit,  Ch^apsidtf. 
end  to  the  Poultry. 

•PaocBBoiy^  s*utbward>  we  come  to  Buig€  Bow,  no 
called  from  having  been  the  reudence  cf  persons  deaU 
;nig  in  ^iK^,  or  iamb-skin  fufti;  here  is  the  parish 
church,  of  Si.  Amkolm.  The  ancient. church  being 
»dtttioyied  byilbe  great firSe,  the  pr^aont one^finisb^  in 
:1680,  is  built  of  stone,  and  .is*  of  fihe  TMscw4^rd€if4  firm 
•and  massy.  The  length  is  si^-six  feet,  and  breadth 
'Stjr£aur.  The  roof,  is  a  cupola,  of  an  ellipti<;  forin, 
•eolightenedhy  four  port-hole. windows^  and  support^ 
by  eompoaite  columns.  Ihe  ste^Wconsists  of  a  tower,, 
and  a  very  neat  spires  At  itUs  abui^b  a  oermon  js 
jmndsed  every  evening  in  the  weak  by  dififerent  4:ki]gy- 


YO  WALKS  THROUGA    LONDON. 

tnea,  yrho  are  paid  from  pious  legacies  left  for  ihh 
purpose. 

Tower  Royal  is  a  street  opposite  St.  Antholin's  churcb, 
and  was  tbe  royal  residence  of  King  Stephen;  and  it 
was  here  that  Richard  the  Second,  after  the  destruction 
of  Wat  Tyler,  visited  his  mother,  the  Princess  Joan, 
widow  of  the  Black  Prince,  who  had  retired  here  as  a 
place  of  great  strength,  when  the  rehels  had  occupied 
the  Tower  of  London.  Under  Henry  the  Eighth  it  re> 
rerted  to  the  crown.  After  the  reign  of  Elizabeth,  it 
became  stabling  for  the  king's  horses,,  and  was,  nlti- 
matdy  divided  into  tenemento  till  the  great  fire  levelled 
tbe  whole,  in  1666;  so  that  iU  former  consequence  is 
only  preserved  by  tbe  name. 

College  Hill  is  nearly  opposite,  and  was  so  denomi- 
nated from  a  college,  founded  by  Sir  Richard  Whitting- 
ton,  knight,  four  times  Mayor;  between  the  years  1396 
and  1419.  Ii  was  called  God's  House,  and  was  sup- 
pressed under  Edward  the  Sixth.  The  alms-houses, 
however,  still  remain  under  the  patronage  of  the  Mer- 
cer's Company ;  and  here  is  the  school,  which  goes  un- 
der their  name,  and  which  was  formerly  attached  b> 
their  haR  in  the  Old  Jewry. 

Tht  handsome  pile  of  building  at  the  south-west  cor- 
ner of  College  Hill,  and  partly  in  Thames-Street,  though 
finishing  in  the  most  elegant  style,  being  embellished 
with  stone  pilasters,  and  the  windows  ornamented  with 
pediments,  supported  by  cartouches,  &c.  is  intended 
as  the  paper  warehouses  of  Alderman  Magnay . 

On  the  east  side  of  College  Hill,  is  the  parish  church  of 
Si.  Mtckael  Royal :  it  is  a  plain,  decent,  and  substantial 
stone  building:,  receiving  light  from  large  arched  win- 
dows. The  tower  consists  of  three  stages,  and  at  the  top 
u  surrounded  with  carved  open  work,  instead  of  a  ba- 
lustrade; from  hence  arises  a  light  and  elegant  turret, 
adorned  with  Ionic  columns,  and  ending  in  a  fine  dimi- 
nution, which  supports  the  vane.    This  church  having 


■J-Trc  v«r\v  YORK    I 

--■.■LiciABAAP':! 


I  ytL.  ■ 


1 


WAtM  THBOUGH    1^01IOON«  7t 


Mui-ffuufu  tn;iM)$  ^^uu>uA'*a^  .•  .^  u)uk«  ana  Uw  parlour 
wiUi  «edar.  Several  Lord  Mayors  hare  formerly  kept 
tbeir  court  in  this  hall ;  and  which.uied  to  be  let  to  the 


Kys  2i»fit  - 


WAtM  THBOUGB   1^01I00N«  7t 

been  «A  appendage  to  tbie  eolleg^,  }U  history  is  iinrolred 
in  that  t>f  the  other  structure ;  but  it  was  made  colle* 
giate  by  Sir  Riehard  Whittington,  by  the  oames  of 
St  Spin!  and  St.  Mary^ 

OiuUr^  Hdll  is  in  Cloak-Lane,  near  this  church.  The 
hall-room  contains  an  old  portrait  of  Mr.  Crawthornei 
wha  bestowed  the  Belle  Sauvage  Inn,  on  Ludgate-Hill, 
in  trust  for  the  annual  distribution  of  several  charities,* 
but  at  present  is  partly  occupied  by  a  packer.     • 

Nearly  opposite  the  comer  of  Dowgate-Hill,  is  the 
chut«h<yard  of  St.  John  Ihe  Baptist, -one  of  those  nol 
'  rdmik  since  the  great  fire. 

j  '  £H>ow*iLane  contains  Dyert^-Hall,  a  neat  modern 

'  structure,-  having  a  double  flight  of  steps  to  the  princi- 

pal entrance,  with  an  arch  for  vaults  underneath. 

Nearly  opposite  is  Im^ldtn^ •Hall,  a  substantial, 
but  not  an  extensive  structure. 

Westward  in  Thames-Street,  \%  Joiner ff-Bi^ilding^ 
mih  Joimr^'Hall,  a  neat  structure,  and  remarkable 
for  two  sylvan-  deities  over  the  entrance.  Part  of  this 
hall  is  now  a  private  house.  At  the  bottom  of  these 
buildings  are  the  premises  of  the  Mines  Copper  Com-^ 
pany,  with  a  front  on  the  Thames. 

Opposite  Three  Crane  Lane  isthebarial  ground.  oC 
the  old  church  of  St.  Martin  Vintry.. 

MMen^Lane,  on  the  east  side  of  Queen-Street,  pa»h. 
sing  to  College  Hill,  is  only  Tcmarkable  for  having  been 
caUed  KerioM-Lanei  and  the  supposed  residence  o£ 
some  of  Geoffiey  Chaucer's  family..    . 

Rctaming  to  Dowgate-Uilly  we  find  Skunur't-Hail':^ 
the  front  of  this  building  is  very  elegant,  being  com* 
posed  of  modem  windows  between  pilasters,,  and  a  massy 
pediment,  with  the  armorial  hearings- of  the  company 
m  the  centre.  The  apartments  are  very  grand ;  the 
bali-ffoom  being  wainsootted  with  oak,  and  the  parlour 
witk  eedar.  Several  Lord  Mayors  have  formerly  kept 
ibeir  court  in  this  hall;  andwhich.uaedtobelettotha 


78  ^AiMM  viaioa«a  loiboii. 

Jfolt  ^it  Company  fi>r  tb^  imum  purpose.  T»Uow^ 
Cbnndleri'  H4II,  whicd  is  aUo  uponDowgat^-Hiil,  Bfeikr 
C»iu)on*$tr^t,  b|is  beea  previously  noli<;e4« 

Sauthwark'Bridge, — The  lower  part  of  Qocen-Streel4 
^4  tbe  neighbourbood  of  I>[>wgitt«?»  ia  op  ibe  ove  of 
vnd^rgoiiig  CQOfiiderpble  ^emtiop  aiid  if»proViMaciit| 
In  cotwqueac?  of  tl}i»  ww  comnuni^Qliojd  with  thf 
qipoftiu  bank  of  tbo  Tbaineii  from  tbo  boUom  of  ^e^p^ 
Street,  Cbeap^id^  ia  a  dir^Pt  line  from  Guildball  ta 
IMtfikfside.  Soutbirark^  and  from  tbfnco  to  ibe  Kent 
and  Surry  roads.  Mr.  Jtenpie  is  tbe  architect  i  and  tb< 
structure  is  to  consist  of  tbr^  grand  arcbes;  tbe  c^^ 
U»  one.of  two  bu))drod  and  forty  feet  fpan>  and  tbaqol- 
ial^rali  of  two  bundred  and  ten  feel.  Tbe  arcbfaara 
to  be  con»tntict«d  of  cast  iron;  but  the  piers  and  abut*' 
m^nts  of  fttone. .  Tbe  wbole  oypeo^e  has  been  estimated 
at  287,0001 ;  and  the  work^y  especially  on  tbe  South-t 
mrk  Me,  are  at  |iresent  in  a  state  of  great  forwardness. 

Vmfmri*'Hail,  in  TbaasesrStreet,  near  Anchor- I#n^ 
rebuUi  by  Sir. Christopher  Wren,  is  avary  baodsom^ 
iftniQtnre,  inclosini*  .three  sides  of  a  squane  court,  1HII1 
ifoo  railing,  and  a  torge  gate  fronting  the  street,  bilog 
upon  columns,  wreathed  with  grapes  and  vinof  leaves, 
and  a  Bacobutv.upon  tbrte  tuns  on  eaofa  pillar.  Tbe 
interior  of  tbe  ball  is  elegant ;  and  behind  it  is  a  garden, 
4rub  a  passage  to  the  Thames.  In  tbe  great  ball  is  a 
good  pictnitt  of  fit.  Mmio,  on  a  white  hofse,  dividing 
kps  desk,  as  ills  reportedt  to  our  Saviour,  wbo  appeared 
to  him,  in  the  fourth  centikry,  djaguiaad  as  a  beggar* 
There  is,,  besides,  a  statne  a{  that  saint  in  the  «ame  rotnn, 
and  anothdr  picture  of  hini :  above  staiia. 

Upon  Garliok^ill,  stands  the  Churob  of  ift.  J^mef, 
Oorlick'HUl,  an  edifice'  of  atooe^  sefenty^fiva  feel 
iang,Mfinty-6ve  fioat  4iwNid,  forty  feel  bi|^  t»  tbia 
raofi  and  the  ste^>le  ninetynetght  feet.  The  tower 
la  divided  into  tbi«e  stages.  '  In  tbe  lowest  ia  n  Vi9y 
alepuit^oor,  with  coupled  edupini  of  the  CorintbitD 


order*  In  the  second  is  a  krge  window,  with  the  foriii 
pf  ji  circular  one  not  qpened  over  it  In  the  third  .story 
i«  a  window  larger  than  the  former;  and  the  cornice 
above  this  supports  a  range  of  open  work  in  the  place 
9fh«tt]ei|ients»  on  a  balustrade.  Hence  rises  the  tur- 
net  and  apire,  which  is  composed  of  foqr  stages,  and 
deporated  with  columns,  scrolb,  and  other  ornaments. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  street  of  St.  Thomas  Apostles, 
an  old  Presbyterian  place  of  worship,  repaired  in  1815, 
has  come  Into  the  occupation  of  Germans  of  the  Ca* 
tbolic  persuasion. 

SoW'Lam  was  formerly,  from  its  inhabitants,  called 
Cofdwainer-^SUeet :  when  they  left  it,  hosiers  took  pos» 
les^ioD,  whence  it  was  denominated  Hosier-Lane*  lt$ 
present  name  is  derinred  from  its  proximity  to  the 
Church  of  St.  Mary-le-3ow. 

On  tbi9  east  side  of  Boiv-Lane  b  the  parish  chureh 
of  Si.  Maty  MikTmaty,  built  by  Henry  Rogers,  Ssq^ 
Tiiis  fine  church  is  an  hundred  feet  in  length,  and 
wty-tbree  in  breadth ;  the  height  of  the  roof  forty-fiv^ 
&^  and'  that  of  the  steeple  an  hundred  and  thirty-^fiye, 
The  body  ia  enlightened  by  a  single  series  of  hrg^ 
Gathic  windows^  The  wall  has  well  contrived  bvt- 
treases  aod.battiemeDts;  these  buttresses  rup  up  pilas^ 
ter  fashion,  in  two  stages,  not  prqjecting  in  the  old 
mapner  from  the  body  of  the  buildings  The  tower, 
highly  oman^nud,  eonsista  of  fire  stages,eacb  of  which, 
eveepa  tb^  lowest,  has  one  Gothic  window;  and  th^ 
pfnoades,  which  are  properly  so  naany  turrets,  ate  Con^ 
tiaiiedaieai7h  comer  down  to  the  ground,  divided  into 
stagea  as  the  body  of  the  lower,  and  eabled  iHth  saia)) 
piQars  boiwd  rauod  it,  with  a  kind  of  arched  wbri^ 
and  subdivisions  between  them. 

Bfttkif^ldMe,  nearly  opposite  this  church,  toptlrins 
Qprr^trfi^  JUqU  isn,  piop^ly  Gispf^s  ffalh  dinmguisb^ 
ed  at  pietml  by  a  Agnra,  md^ly  ^^^rved  in  wpcd,  a» 
ant  ^Ueot  t)i^  gaU.    TUairas  ceniilii)y  a  buiga  ipsn* 


74  WAIK9    TmUHTOB  lONDON* 

skm;  of  wfatch  the  fire  of  London  has  left  the  imprest 
sion  of  some  ancieint  windows,  kc.  in  a  wall,  and  in  the 
cellars  of  the  house ;  but  the  tak  of  Gerard  the  Giant« 
attached  to  it,  is  involved  in  fiction. 

The  Lutheran,  or  Swedish  Church,  lower  down,  hi 
Great  Trmity-Lanc,  stands  on  the  site  of  that  of  Trinity 
the  Less. 

•  Painter'Siainers^  Hall  is  in  Little  Trinity-Lane,  a 
neat  building,  with  a  garden  on  the  north  side.  The 
hall-Toom  is  adorned  with  a  handsome  screen,  arches, 
pillars,  and  pilasters  of  the  Corinthian  order,  painted  in 
imitation  of  porphyry,  with  gilt  capitals.  The  pannek 
are  of  wainscot,  and  the  ceilings  embeHtshed  with  a  great 
variety  of  historic  and  other  paintings,  exquisitely  per* 
formed,  amongst  which  are  the  portraits  of  King 
Charles  the  Second  and  his  Queen  Catherine,'  by  Mr. 
Houseman.  The  various  paintings  represent  Pallas  tri- 
umphant, with  the  Arts,  and  Fame,  attended  by  Mercury, 
suppressing  Sloth,  Envy,  Pride,  and  the  other  enemies  of 
(he  liberal  sciences';  Endymion  and  Diana, by  Pftrmen* 
tier;  Orpheus  fieaing  Pan,  by  BruU;  Architecture 
of  the  Corinthian  order,  by  Trevet ;  the  Fire  of  Lon- 
don, by  Waggener ;  Architecture  of  the  Ionic  order,  by 
Thomjjson,  city  painter;  Art  and  EAvy,  by  Hondtu»; 
a  portrait  of  Camden,  the  antiquary,  in  his  herald's  ta- 
bard ;  a  bird-piece ;  a  landscat)e,  by  Aggaf ;  Heraditos 
and  Democritns,  by  Penn ;  fish  and  fowl,  by  RobinsoQ ; 
birds,  by  Borelor;  fruit  and  flowers,  by  •Goerbfook; 
a  nun,  by  Griffier ;  and  a  fine  piece  of  shipping,*  by 
Monami.  In  the  front  of  the  court-room  ia  a  <Hie  bust 
of  Mr.  Thomas  Evans,'who  left  fivfe  houses  in  Basing* 
hall-Street  to  the  company,  and  a  head  of  the  late  John 
Stock,  Esq.  of  Hampstead. 

Mr.  Camden,  his  father  having  been  a  member,  gave 
the  Painter-Stainer's  Company  a  silver  cup  and  cover, 
which  they  use  every  St.  Luke*t  day  at  their  Section* 
the  old  master  drhikhig  to  the  one- then  elected,  oat  of 


WAUU  TBtOUGB.LONDOir.  7fl 

il.  On  tbis  cup  u  the  foUqwing  inacription:  GuiL 
CamdemuM,  Qarencioix,  JUm$  Sati^uamU  Pici<Mris  Ltm* 
dmemfiH  domo  dedii.  The  late  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds 
wai  mbo  a  memher  of  this  comj^oy. 

At  tlie  bottom  of.  ibis  lane,  Jn  Thames-Streel;  it 
^kiegmkitke,  in  the  time  of  the  $axons  denominated 
Edred's  Hithe. 

Opposite  this  wharf,  at  the  sooth^west  angle  of  Little 
Trinity-Lanei  is  the  Church  of  St.  Mickaeh  fiMcn^ 
kMg^  with  a  phon  tower,  terminating  in  a  spire. 
Clowned  with  a  vane  in  the  form  of  a  little  ship.  The 
ro4rfi&  covered  with.tile;  the  walls  stone:  the  body  is 
divided  into  three  aisles.  The  ornament  of  the  Toof  is 
a  qwadrangle, .bounded  with.fret<*work$  the  walls^are 
ornamented  with  arches,  imposts,  and. drops;  and 
handsome  arched  and.  circoku'  windows^.  The  steeple 
is  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  fieet  high :  the  length 
of  tbe.Gbarob  seventy-one  feet;  its  breadth  forty,  and 
.iu  akitode  thirty  ^nine. 

Proceeding  to  Brtad  Street  Hillt  on  its  west  side, 
i$  the  site  of  the  parish  churcb  of  St  NichdM  Olav€» 
destroyed  by  the  gseat  fire.  BreadJSireet,  in  which 
tha  father  of  Milton  sesided  as  a  scrivener,  contain^  the 
pasish  church  of  Stn.MUdred :  the  front  of.  free->stone, 
the  other  parts.brick.  The  roof  is  covered  with  lead, 
and  the  .floor  paved  with  Purheck  stone.  The  pulpit 
and  the  altar-piece  are. handsomely  adonied ;  and  the 
.  eammuiiion  jtabk  stands  upon  a  Ibot^piece  of  Uackand 
white  narUe. 

The  C»iNrcfc4^il//rlU^oitw,Bn0ad-&re^^ 
.in  \96^  and  consisU  of  a,  plain  body.with  a.s(]uare 
•tow^i  eqjhty^iaix  ieet  bigh»  .divided  into. four  stages, 
with  arches  near  the  top.  It  is .  handsomely,  wainscot- 
ted  find  pewed,  the^pulpit  finely,  carved,  the  sounding- 
hoanl  veneered,,  with  a  neat. gallery  atthe  west  end, 
and.a.spBGiptta  ahav^pieoe. 

Having  entered  Cheapsidei  the  parish  churcb  of  St. 


78  WALKS  THBOUGB  tOMIKHr. 


WALK  VI. 

FHm  ike  PouUry,  dawn  the  Old  Jewry,  to  KingSireei, 
ChdIdhaU,  BanngkaU-^Streei,  Fare^Sireet,  Alderman- 
hwry.  North  end  qf  Wood-Street,  Crippiegaie,  and 

'  Barlriean ;  return  through  Alder^ate^Street,  Paioan^ 
Square,  Nahk-^ireei,  St.  Jtm'e-Lamep  Aidengm^,  Sl 
Mmtmfe  k  Grand,  Ckeapnde,  Patter-Lame,  Maiden 
Lake,  Gutter-Laue,  South  end  qf  WoodrStreet,  King- 
Street,  Ironmonger-Lane,  to  the  Poultry. 

pAtixMO  the  lite  of  St.  Mary  Coleckurch,  in  the  Did 
Jewry«  lower  down  was  Mercert^ •School. 

Prederid^e-Place,  containhig^  some  good  houses,  was 
so  called  from  Sir  John  Frederick,  who  was  Lord 
Mayor  in  16G2,  and  whose  large  house  here  was  after- 
waids  used  as  the  Excise^Office. 

Lower  down  is  the  church  of  Sti  Olave,  OU  Jewry. 
The  walls  are  paftiy  brick,  with  stone  fiiciogs,  and  door- 
cases; the  east  end  u  stone;  the  steeple,  consisting  of 
a  handsome  tower,  with  pinnacles,  is  also  of  stone.  The 
outside  of  the  east  end  is  adorned  with  pilasters,  cornices, 
and  a  spacious  pediment :  the  upper  part  of  the  walls, 
at  the  meeting  of  the  roof,  round  the  church,  is  en- 
riched with  cherubim,  festoons,  lind  cartouches.  Hie 
aolith  outer  door-case  is  adorned  with  pilasters  and^en- 
Ublement  of  the  Boric  order ;  and  the  interior  is  very 
handsome,  and  highly  decorated. 

On  the  east  side  of  IrouMonger^Lane  is  the  site  of 
the  ancient  church  of  St.  Martin,  used  now  as  a  burial 
place.  This  church  was  originally  known  by  the  name 
of  St.  Martin  in  the  Pomery,  or  Orchard;  and  to  the 
east  of  this  spot  is  a  handsome  house,  once  the  residence 
of  Sir  Thomas  Chitty,  Lord  Mayor  of  London. 

At  the  bottom  of  Ironmonger-Lane,  Cateat^n-Street 


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\    T.'--^        • 


l 


The  pien  of  the  porch  have  oblong  and  poinicxi  pa^uv^^ 
wUh  an  inverted  arch  battlement*  above,  continued 
akmg  the  parapet  over  the  archway.  The  parapet  of 
the  roof  ia  decorated  in  a  similar  style^  and  the  central 


<« 


-f; 


<  ■'       V 


t^ALKB  THtUMJOB    LOWDOir.  '     79 

crosses  King-Street ;  and  here  we  find  the  church  of 
St,  Lawrence,  remarkable  for  the  gridiron  upon  the 
•pire.  This  church,  which  is  now  repairing  and  beau- 
tifying,  is  well  built  of  stone;  the  roof  flat,  co?ered 
with  lead ;  the  windows  below  are  arched,  the  upper 
ones  are  square.  The  roof  is  adorned  with  fret- work ; 
the  pilasters  on  the  south  side,  and  the  columns  on  the 
east,  are  beautiful  specimens  of  the  Corinthian  order, 
as  is  also  an  entablement  on  the  same  side.  The  tower 
of  this  church  contains  eight  good  belb.  Over  the 
altar  is  a  beautiful  painting  of  the  Martyrdom  of  St 
Lawrence.  One  of  the  most  remarkable  monuments 
in  the  interior  is  that  of  Archbuhop  Tillotson,  who  died 
In  1694.  What  is  called  Lady  Campden's  Lecture  is 
preached  here  every  Tuesday  evening;  as  is  also  the 
annual  sermon  on  the  29th  of  September,  previous  to 
the  election  for  Lord  Mayor. 

Gtnldhall,  at  the  north  end  of  King-Street,  is  an  ex- 
tensive, but  irregular  pile  of  buildings  of  brick  and 
itDUe.  In  the  present  fVont  no  part  of  the  ancient  work 
is  retained,  excepting  the  central  archway  and  its  sup-i 
porting  columns ;  and  what  has  not  been  destroyed, 
has  been  stuccoed  over,  and  a  new  architectural  i:ha« 
racter  given  to  the  whole.  The  front  now  consisu 
of  three  dirisions,  separated  by  fluted  pilasters,  or 
piers,  terminating  above  the  parapet  in  pinnacles  of 
three  gradations;  or  stages,  crowned  with  fire  bosses, 
and  ornamented  with  a  sort  of  an  escalioped  battle- 
meat*  Similar  pilasters  appear  on  the  sides  of  the 
Unmt;  and  all  the  intermediate  spaces  are  stuck  full 
of  smaH  windows,  three  in  a  row,  with  acutely  pointed 
heads,  and  turns  within  them  of  seven  sweeps  each. 
The  piers  of  the  porch  have  oblong  and  pointed  panntls, 
with  an  inverted  arch  battlement*  above,  continued 
akxig  the  parapet  over  the  archway.  The  parapet  of 
ifaeroof  is  decorated  in  a  similar  style,  and  the  central 


80  WALKS  THftOUOU   LONOOlT- 

dinaioD  sufUuds  the  armorial  bearing»  of  the  dty,  rap- 
ported  by  large  dragoda^  with  the  tnotto^  Domine  Dirige 
Nq$,  inscribed  id  a  compartment  below«  Between  eAoh 
tow  cyf  windows  is  a.running  oi'nament  of  open  flowem, 
and  above  the  fluUnga  of  the  piiaalefs  vtt  sculptlin^  of 
the  city  mace  and.  sword.  The  interior  of  the  porch  is 
nearly  in  its jlncient  state^  displaying  a  two-fold  divisioti, 
formed  by  smull  columns  supporting  a  groined  roo& 
and  ornamented  with  pointed  arches,  tracery,  shield^ 
add  rich  bosses  gilt ;  and  on  one  of  the  shields  are  the 
aarms  of  £dward  the  Confessor.  The  great  baU,  though 
diTeited  of  its  -original  roofj  retains  mnch  of  its  ancient 
grandeur.  It  will  contain  frdm  six  to  seven  thouaanl 
persons*  Clusters  of  columns  support  the  sides^  and 
the  foilmer  ha\<«  handsome  bases  and  gilt  cafiitals.  The 
fiieaes  of  the  entablatures  display  a  great,  number  of 
small  blockings,  sculptured  with  fanciful  human  beadi^ 
flowers,  &CU  Upon  the  capitals  of  the  clustered  co- 
lumns anl  lirge  shldldsi  blazoned  with  the  artns  of  the 
Oity  companies,  and  other  ornaments.  The  attic  story 
is  deoorated  with  circular  headed  windows^  shields^  and 
double  piers ;  the  whok  covered  in  by  a.  flat  pm(ineUed 
ceiling.  An  orchestra  has  been  erected  over  the  prinCipd 
eotEanee.  The  east  end  of  the  hall  is  appropriated  for 
holding  the  Comt  qf  HuatingM.  The  higher  oompaft* 
toeat^  of  .the  window  at  this  endi  consisting  of  painted 
glasa#  of  modern  executioiv,  represent  the  Boyal  Amis 
and  Supporters^  and  the  Stars  and  Jeweb  of  the  Ordcn 
of  the  Gaiter,  Bath,  Thisdci  and  St.  Patridk.  The  wert 
end  of  the  haU  exhibits  another  magnifleeM  window^  the 
iDsida  of  which  is  represented  on  tht  cover  of  this  work* 
At  each  angle  of  this  wmdow,  since  the  reparations  of 
IS15,  the  two  figures,  called  Oog  and  Magog,  have  each 
been  placed  upon  a  pillar,  add  in  the  caitre  is  a  hand^ 
mnedial.  Their  height  is  about  fourteen  feet;  but  as 
they  are  not  mentioned  either  by  Slow  or  Munday,  It 


*i 


.<V..  .. 


.1  ^u 


^^*1' 


WAIK4  TMIOUGM  I^OMOOir. 


:«  .  -  .••:<.     v '»':•• 


9« 


I    -;  <  I  »    ••      ..     •     \  '  .r.:l 


WALR8  THBOUOR   L0ND01I.  91 

is  supposed  they  were  not  put  up  in  Guildhall  till  aAer 
the  Plre  of  London  :  they  are  said  to  represent  a  Bo- 
man  and  an  ancient  Briton. 

During  the  latest  repairs^  in  the  course  of  last  year^ 
the  ceiling  and  the  walls  joi  thu  hail  were  cleaned  and 
newly  covered,  llie  old  entrance^  which  led  to  the 
council-chanxher,  surmounted  by  ahandsometime-pieoe^ 
and  seferal  ancient  emblematical  figures  of  Saturn  de- 
Touring  his  oftpring,  was  closed  up,  and  made  to  cor- 
respond with  the  other  parts  of  the  building.  In  lieu 
of  this  old  passage,  a  new  one  was  opened  directly  in  a 
line  with  the  principal  entrance  to  the  hall.  On  one 
aide  of  thb  stands  the  monument  of  Nelson,  and  on  the 
other  side«  that  of  Alderman  Beckford,  which  formerly 
'  stood  at  die  west  end.  The  arms  of  the  df^rent  oom* 
panics  were  also  gilded  and  painted,  and  Gog  and  Sia<> 
gog  decked  in  brilliant  gold  and  scarlet  mantles; 
their  armour  also,  and  their  general  costume,  has  been 
beautified. 

Hfe  entrance  to  What  is  called  the  New  Boom  is 
from  the  north-west  angle  of  the  hall,  near  the  giants; 
and  this  room  is  occasionally  used  by  the  commis- 
sioners for  bankrupts. 

The  Council  Chamber  has  also  undergone  several 
improvements ;  the  whole  of  the  paintings  hung  upon 
the  walls  being  removed,  and  the  chamber  completely 
new  painted.  At  the  upper  end,  immediately  behind 
the  chair  of  the  Lord  Mayor,  an  elevated  recess  is 
formed  to  contain  the  statue  of  his  present  majesty. 
This  is  lined  with  dark  grey  Italian  marble,  and  a  pe- 
destal of  white  marble  is  protruded  a  little  way  from  it, 
to  sustain  the  statue.  In  the  front  of  this  ttatue  is  the 
Lord  Mayor's  chair ;  and  the  fire-place  at  the  lower 
end  of  the  room  has  been  removed,  to  give  place  to 
flues,  by  which  liiis  apartment  has  been  since  warmed. 

Though  the  portraits  of  the  judges  have  been  taken 
out  of  the  haft  !$ince  the  last  repabs  cotmncnccd,  those, 

G 


82  WALKS.  THBOUGH    LONDOll. 

with  the  excellent  paintings  which  reoiain  in  the  diffe- 
rent apartments,  are  too  numerous  for  a  detail ;  bat  the 
monuments  of  William  Beckford«  Esq.  the  Earl  «f 
Chatham,  the  Right  Honourable  William  Pitt,  and  that 
of  Lord  Nekon,  which  still  decorate  this  noble  hall, 
will  ever  be  admired ;  and  it.  may  be  only  necessary  to 
.  add,  that  a  moderate  consideration  bestowed  upon  aay 
of  the  officers  here,  for  admission  into  the  various  apart- 
ments, will  be  more  than  repaid  by  the  ample  gratifica- 
tion of  the  admiring  spectator. 

Underneath  the  hall  is  a  crypt,  entered  by  a  descent 
of  several  steps,  and  divided  into  aisles  by  clustered 
columns,  having  plinths,  bases,  and  capitals.  Some 
large  pointed- headed  windows  are  now  walled  up,  and 
the  whole  only  used  for  storing  benches,  tables,  &ۥ 
The  hall  was  begun  in  1411,  the  twelfth  year  of  Henry 
the  Fourth,  being  previous  to  this  **  a  little  cottage.'' 

The  only  external  remains  of  Guildhall  Chapel  ap* 
pear  in  the  west  front,  adjacent  to  Blackwell-Hall,  in 
a  large  and  handsome  pointed  arched  window,  with 
some  statues  in  the  centre  and  on  the  sides.  This 
building  has,  for  several  years  past,  been  used  as  the 
Court  of  Requests. 

BlackweU  Hallg  on  the  south  side  of  this  chapeb  was 
formerly  the  dwelling  of  Thomas  Bakewell,  but  has  long 
been  used  as  a  store-house  and  market-place  for  cloths. 

On  the  east  side  of  Basinghall-Street,  and  a  little  to 
the  northward  of  this  hall,  is  MasonVAUey,  so  called 
from  Mason's  Hall,  in  the  south  angle,  at  present  oc- 
cupied by  a  manufacturer* 

IVeavcr's  Hall,  on  the  same  side  of  the  way,  is 
handsomely  built,  though  a  brick  edifice,  and  has  a 
screen  of  the  Ionic  order  inside. . 

Sambrook-Court  is  formed  upon  the  site  of  a  large 
house,  belonging  to  Sir  Jeremy  Samhrook,  formerly  an 
eminent  merchant ;  and  this,  till  lately,  was  occupied 
by  the  truly  philanthropic  Dr.  Lettsom. 


,.l 


eminent  merchant ;  and  this,  till  lately,  was  occupied 
by  the  truly  philanthropic  Dr.  Lettsom. 


iLtht?nev'york"' 
^ULLIC  LIBRARY 


WALKfi  TBAOUGH   LONDON.  SS 

Cocper^  Hmli  k  nearly  opposite  Sambrodc-Court ; 
a  handsome  brick  boilding.  ki  this  hall  the  Lottery- 
tickets  faai%  lately  been  drawn.  Further,  on  the 
same  side  of  the  street,  is  the  chnrch  of  Sf.  Michael 
Btunduvw.  The  walb  of.  this  structure,  finished  in 
1679,  are  of  brick,  strengthened  with  rustic  work  at 
the  eoraers  ;  and  the  body  is  well  enlightened  by  a  sin- 
gle series  of  large  windows.  The  steeple  is  a  tower, 
crowned  with  a  turret,  from  which  rises  a  kind  of  spire. 


WALKA  TBltOUGH    LONDON. 


8a 


Coopen^  Hmll  k  nearly  opposite  6ambro<4-Court ; 
a  handsome  brick  boiiding.  In  this  hall  the  Lottery- 
tickets  have  lately  been  drawn.  Further,  on  the 
tame  side  of  the  street,  is  the  church  of  S^.  Michael 
Banukaw.  The  walls  of.  this  structure,  finished  in 
1679,  ai3e  of  brick,  strengthened  with  rustic  work  at 
the  eomers ;  and  the  body  is  well  enlightened  by  a  sin- 
gle aeries  of  large  windows.  The  steeple  is  a  tower, 
crowned  with  a  turret,  from  which  rises  a  kind  of  spire. 

Lower  down,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street,  is 
Girdlen*  Hall ;  a  building  both  handsome  and  con* 
Tenient.  Turning  out  of  Basinghall-Street  at  London- 
Wall,  we  proceed  westward,  to  Aldermanbury :  at  its 
northern  extrenuty  is  the  site  of  Elsing  Spital,  founded 
by  WiHiam  Elsing,  citizen  and  mercer  of  London,  in 
1929,  afterwards  converted  into  a  priory  of  canons  re- 
gular. The  window  of  the  old  church  of  this  Spital, 
represented  in  the  wood-cut,  now  forms  a  part  of  the 
north-west  comer  of  the  present  church  of  St.  Alphage. 


M  WALKS  THEOUGU  LONDON. 

Sion  OMege  wts  founded  on  the  ute  of  EWiog  Hos- 
pital, or  Prioiy,  by  Hiomas  White,  Rector  of  St.  Dun- 
•tan's  in  the  West,  in  the  year  1633,  with  a  library  fiar 
the  use  of  the  studious  of  the  London  clergy,^  aad  aiflM* 
bouses  for  twenty  persons,  ten  men  and  ten  wamen ; 
jsnd  out  of  the  revenue  for  this  foundaitioD,  it  w^a  or- 
dered that  the  dergy  should  have  .four  annual  diiuien» 
Mid  thai  on  those  days  sermons  ahould  be  preached. in 
Latin.  The  library  and  h^iV  here  ane  decorated  with 
s^vfsral  curious  portraits,  painiings,  Soc^  Opposite  this 
colkge  is  a  smaU  burial-ground^onoe  attached  to  the  east 
md  of  .the  mother  church  of  Sl  Alphage,  and  abuts  on 
the  ftncieot  city  waU.  ThepreM»tchurcfa«atUMa<«tW 
west  corner  of  Aidermanbury,  consists  of  tw^foDOla; 
one  in  Aidermanbury,  the  other  fax^tog  LondoorWaiL 
The  former  consists  of  a  pediment  supported  by  pil- 
lars, E  Venetian,  and  other  windows;  the  latter  of  • 
lofty  pedinient».siyippM:ted  by  <>v«l  pittar^  a  plain  win- 
dow«  an4  a  door-case :  the  interior  is  very  nei^ 

Ketuming  to  the  southward,  at  the  eastern  entrance 
to  Addle-Street,  is  Brewers*  Hall,  with  a  .large  paved 
court.  The  front  of  this  building  is  on  tbo  north  side, 
composed  of  a  rich  basement,  approa^iag  to  the  Tus- 
can order. 

Returning  to  AMermanbury,  we  arrive  at  die  church 
of  St.  Mwy,  Aidermanbttfj/  ;  a  stone  baiViuig»  with  a 
tower  and  turt«t  The  roof  within  is  4^aaierated,  co- 
vered with  lead,  and  suppoited  by  twdve  pUhrs,  of  the 
composite  order.  The  floor  of  the  chancel  is  higher 
than  that  of  the  body  of  the  church.  At  the  east  end, 
fronting  Aldertnanbury,  iji «  fairgc  comioe  apd  triangu- 
lar pediment;  also  two  lai|^  caiiouches  and  pine  ap- 
ples, of  carved  atone.  iM*^^  ^  monumenU  in  the 
interior  is  a  neat  varie^ate4  marMe  tablet,  with  apyra* 
mid  and  funeral  vase,  to  the  memory  of  Samuel  Smith, 
Esq.  which  represents  a  beautiful  female  figiire,  seated 
on  a  gUB^  her  hands,  crossed  on  r  fractured  tostral 


'v    Y   ' 


iri 


^  .]' 


>.■.■■-!».'••"*;',  ^a^W^rii  ':.»lr        .<   .    i...  *  t  ' 


M  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

Sion  Colkge  was  founded  on  the  site  of  EWiog  Hos 


Jicti^k^i,  )r,2^ii.A>sm*:',Jj  fM 


WAIRS  TREOUOH  XONDOIS.  05 

cofeBUif  tbost  admirably  ezeeoted  hjD&miiaco  Cardelliy 
of  Bdibe*  Here,  with  deveral  olber  persons  of  eraineDee, 
Ike  iniaiiious  Judge  Jeiferies  was  interred. 

PaaoDg  up  Love^Lane^  we  come  to  the  ebnrcli  of 
&•  ^btmj  Wood-Sireet :  the  ancient  structure  on  diia 
spot  is  ^fcaertSty  siippdied  to  have  beeii  as  early  as  iht 
time  of  Adelstan«  the  Saxon,  whose  residence  standing 
near  it,  shewed  "  ope  great  towef  of  stone"  in  Stow's 
tiflie.  The  building,  both  inside  and  outside  of  the 
present  church,  is  of  the  Gothic  oi^er ;  and  it  is  wain- 
atotlcd  round  tvith  Norway  oak.  The  tower  is  of  stone, 
hiliU  sipiafe ;  the  eight  acroters  are  of  the  Gothic  kind. 
The  height  of  die  tower  is  eighty*iive  feet  and  a  half; 
lind  to  the  top  of  the  pinnacles,  ninety-two  feet. 

In  addition  to  the  Latin  inscription  upon  the  monu* 
ment  of  Sir  John  Chefce,  Weever  mentions  another,  on 
which  wav  the  following : 

Hie  jaeet  T6m  Short-hose 
Sine  Tombc,  sine,  sheete,  sine  Rfiches ; 

Qui  vixit  sine  Gowne, 
Sine  Cloake,  sine  shirt,  sine  Breeches. 

IWring  down  Addle-I^reet,  we  come  to  Phitiennr 
HaU,  a  spacious  building,  blit  of  late  years  rented  toi 
mannlactufeni. 

In  Wood-Street,  near  Silver-Street,  is  ParUh  Clerk's 
HaB  ;  and  in  this  street,  SiWer-Street  Chapel^  occupied 
by  dissenters.  A  little  beyond,  on  the  same  side  of 
the  way,  is  the  site  of  St.  Olave,  Silver-Street. 

In  MonkwelUStreet,  <^po8itey  the  Meeting-Hoiise, 
iv  Widdsor-Court,  was  opened  by  Mr.  Boolittle,  in  the 
reign  of  Charles  the  Second,  as  the  first  dissenting  place 
of  worship  in  London.  This  place  was  afterwards  dis^ 
tinguishcd  by  the  preaching  of  Dr.  James  Fordyce. 
On  the  West  side  of  this  street,  we  come  to  Barber^ 
Hall;  a  nagnificent  building  ibr  its  time,  consisting 


86  WALKa  TimODGH  LONDON* 

of  a  spacious  hall-rooin,  oourt^room,  and  Tarious  otkr 
jcommodioaB  offices.  The  ^nd  etitrance  from  Monk-^ 
well-Street  is  enriched  with  the  company's  arms,  large 
fruity  and  other  decorations ;  and  the  whofois  esteemed' 
one  of  the  hest  works  of  Inigo  Jones.  The  theatre  for 
the  operations  is  elipticai.  A  fine  picture,  by  HoibeiDr 
is  prescrred  here-^'  Henry  the  Eighth,  with  all  his 
Muffiiess  of  msyesty,  in  the  act  of  givhig  the  chirter  to 
the  company;  and  Dr.  Butts,  mentioned  by  Shake- 
speare, are  among  the  figures/' 

Opposite  to  this  hall  are  alms-housts,  founded  by  Sir 
Ambrose  Nicholas,  salter,  and Lftfd  Mayor  in  \S^5,  for 
twelve  poor  and  aged  penons,  rent  free.  Lamb's 
Chapel  Court  takes  its  name  from  an  ancient  chapel^ 
situate  near  the  nortfa-wcA  comer  of  London-Waii, 
(Minded  in  the  reign  of  Edward  the  First.  There  wu 
also  a  well  for  the  use  of  the  religious,  whence  the 
street  was  called  MonkwelUStreet.  In  pursuance  of 
the  will  of  William  Lamb,  Esq.  a  rieb<  cloth-worker  i» 
the  reign  of  Henry  the  Eighth,  four  sermons  are  stili 
preached  hereto  the  Cloth- worlfem*^ 'Company,  upoa 
the  four  principal  festiraW  of  the  year.  Alms  and 
clothing  are  also  distributed  at  this  place. 

Hart-'Sircet,  crossing  the  north  end*  of  Monkwell- 
Stf^eet,  contains  the  alms-houses  of  Mr.  Robert  Rogers. 

Going  on  to  London- Wall,  and  passing  a  dissenting 
meeting-houser  we  come  to  GMm>r«*-ffaii>.  a  plain 
brick  building  on  the  south  side  of  a  small  court,  har* 
ing  an  arched  entrance  with  the  company's  arms 
above  it. 

At  the  north-west  extremity  of  Londoii>»Wan-Sareet, 
CrippWgate  formerly  stood.  Crossing  Fore-Street,  a  part 
of  which  now  resembles  a  market  for  fish,  meat,  &c,  w« 
proceed  up  White  Cross-Street,  passing  the  City  Green- 
Yard  and  Sir  Thomas  Gresham's  alms-booses,  up  the 
'\ni  turning  on  the  right  band.  The  site  of -the  Pea- 
eock  Brewhouse,  and  several  houses  taken  down  in 


WALX3  THBOUOH  LONDON.  87 

Bed  CroB»»Stre€t  and  Cock-Court,  is  now  occuiued  by 
a  Urge  brick  building,  the  handsome  entrance  and 
keeper-'a-office  excepted,  exhibiting  little  more  than 
blank  walk,  with  pilasters*  and  known  by  .the  name  of 
the  New  Fruon  in  Whitecross^treet  This  is  now 
devoted  to  the  exclusive  accommodation  of  debtonif 
those  who  are  freemen  of  the  City  of  London,  bitve 
a  separate  wing  assigned  them,  and  some  peculiar  ad- 
vantages. Tlius  Newgate  is  appropriated  t^  felons> 
Giltspur-Street  Counter  converted  into  a  H^nse  of  cor- 
rection, and  Ludgate  principally  devottid  Uy  the  recep- 
tion of  nocturnal  disturbers  and  the  disorderly,  prior  to- 
their  fuQ  and  permanent  commitment  by  the  magis- 
tracy of  the  police.  The  city  is  much  indebted  to  the 
exertions  of  those  who  have  efiected  these  salutary  re* 
gulatioDf. 

enb-Streei,  a  little  to  the  east  of  Whitecross-Stree^ 
so  long  proverbial  as  being  the  residence  of  sorry  au« 
thon^  being  spared  by  the  great  fire,  still  pre^rves 
several  specimcDs  of  a  gloomy  and  uncomfortable  mode 
of  building.  Id  Hanavir^Yard,  a  large  house,  with  a 
porch,  lately  occupied  by  a  cabinet-maker,  is  said  to 
have  been  the  residence  of  General  Monk,  probably 
onfy  whilst  he  had  his  head-quarters  in  the  city,  upon 
^  eve  of  the  restoration.  Proceeding  from  this  court 
to  Moor-Lane,  at  the  north  end  of  it,  we  come  to  Rope* 
maker's'^imt,  and  a  Catholic  chapel,  one  of  theficsl 
otgeots  of  the  rioters'  vengeance  ia  the  year  I780l  Fins- 
bury-Square  having  been  already  noticed,  we  return 
through  Chiswell-Street  and  Beech- Lane,  without 
meeliDg^ith  any  thing  remarkable  till  we  come  to  Red 
Crosa-Street,  containing  Dr.  Williams^s  Library,  for  the 
useof  Protestant  dissenting  ministers.  Here  are  a  num- 
ber of  portraits  and  other  curiosities ;  and  here  dissen- 
ten  of  all  deoominations  may  legally  re|pster  the  births, 
of  their  children. 
At  the  aooth  end  of  thia  street  stands  the  church 


W  W^LILS  THROUGH   |.ONi«K. 

of  St  Gikt%  Gnpplegtte,  built  of  ilone,  bouUer.aiid 
bcick,  a  spacioM  sIruoUire;  the  pillAn«  trchef^  wip- 
dowsy  &c«  are  of  the  Oolbic  order.  Bwidet  a  miaib^ 
of  iQonutnents  to  ibe  mtmmry  of  leveral  omiaent  per« 
sons,  in  the  front  of  the  north  gallery  is  a  fine  bead» 
aod  accompaniiiMiits,  by  Mr.  Bacoo^  to  tbe  memory  of 

JOHN  MILTON. 

Aulhor  of  Paradise  Lost. 

Bom  Dec  1606*  Died  Nov.  1694. 

Hift  father,  John  Miboi^  died  Morob»  1640. 

Tbey  were  both  interred  in  this  obureb^ 

Samtui  WkUbready  pond$. 

JewiiHStreet  has  been  very  nioch  ioaprovcd,  in  the 
connnenceroent  of  the  crescent  and  the  erectioa  of  a» 
elegant  place  of  worship  for  the  congregation  mwikr 
Dr%  Abraham  Roes. 

Jn  Ftttfft.  Alley,  on  the  west:  side  of  Bed  Cfosa*Stioek, 
ifto  »eetiag«house  for  the  Sandeioaaiaii  pertiiasiiNi; 
and  nearly  oppeaite,  the  aliftsrhowiea  bwilt  by  tkekte 
Sir  William  Staines^  with  another  weetiog-hauae  al 
the  comer  oC  Barbicaai,  buib  by  ban  for  the  iaie  Mr. 
John  Towers. 

.  Ahkrsgato-Slreel  ia  moie  icMarkabk  for  its  feroMir 
gfW|ideur  thajt  ita  osodera  enbeUishracnta^  9oA  bfsre- 
the  Half  Moco  Tavern,  an  old  structure,  was  tho  re* 
•art.of  the  wita  an  the  reiga  of  Charles  the  Seooad»  ^ 
aocount  of  its  vicinity  to  Lauderdale  House,  aead^ 
opposite. 

Of  London  House,  inihiaatreet,  no  vemaiso  are  left  ; 
that  of  Mr.  Seddon,  in  the  cabinet  lin^  standa  upoa  its 
site.  Westmoreland-Buildings,  a  liUk  lowec  down,* 
stands  upon  that  of  a  city  mansion,  heknging  to  the 
N4ril8»  Earls  of  Westmoreland,  and  whicb  stood  till 
within  the  last  sixty  years.  Nearly  opposite  ia  Shafta* 
bury  Bouae,  wilb  a  front  adorned  wi^  bnic  ptetcrs. 


WAUn  TaW>V«B  LONDOH.  M 

oaeelhe  liabUfttMm  of  ADlhonyAshl^  Cooper^  Bail  of 
Hfciftgtliqry ;  it  it  bow  ocropkd  by  tradesmen*  and  • 
Gtmermi  Diapcmsasy  for  the  relief  of  the  sick  poor. 

Trnufy  Court,  on  the  other  side  of  the  way>  was  the 
aila  of  an  hospital  or  cell  to  the  Prior  of  Cluga  j,  in 
Fiaaee:  the  dinin^-halt  fronting  the  street  still  remains^ 
haring  lately  been  occupied  as  a  danciog-room,  &e. 
LkUe  Briittin  was  so  called*  on  aecoont  of  its  being 
the  residence  oftheDttkes  of  Breta^;ne.  The  governors 
of  Christ's  Hospital  have  made  an  excellent  improve* 
moit  near  the  end  of  this  street,  by  pulling  down  the 
Bose  awl  Crown  pubiic^house*  and  several  others  within 
the  gates ;  thus  opening  a  fine  entrance  to  the  east  of 
the  hospital^  encloaing  the  same  with  a  spacious  iron, 
gate,  and  a  dwarf  waJI,  with  handsome  lathng.  The 
oUmnoe  loo  by  the  Town  Ditch,  towards  Ball  and 
Moiifeh-Street«i*coDsidarahly  widened. 

Setuming  to  the  eastern  termination  of  Little  Bri- 
tain, we  come  to  the  Churcb  of  St.  Botolph,  Aldersgatev 
with  a  very  plaiQ  exterior,  as  all  the  windows  to  the 
stieetj  the  east  end  excepted,  are  blocked  up.  This 
ebarch  is  of  briek;  but  several  thousand  pounds  are 
aid  to  have  been  expended  in  beautiiying  it»  interior. 
Italrly  opposite  to  thia  end  of  Little  BriUin,  in  Akkra- 
gUfr-Stieet,  stood  Cook^s  Hmit;  and  farther  on  to  the 
sotttbof  the  church,  the  city-gale,  edied  Aidar^gaie. — 
Panfaig  through  Fikon^uare,  we  conae  into  NMe*. 
Sttmr,  and  to  Cffathm^trnT  HM,  long  used  aS' a  deba*. 
ing  room.  At  the  corner  of  Noble*^treet  is  the  saAe  of 
tlieClli]rchofSt.JiohnZachary;  and  a  titde  easlwavd, 
at  the  end  of  SlaininguLane,  that  of  St.  Mary  Staining* 
Seluming  towards  yoWe  Street  and  Feeter-Lane,  we 
oeme  to  CvldnniM  MaU,  an  irtegular  structure  cf 
bricks  wish  its  coraiera  wrought  in  rustic,  of  stone* 
ne  entrance  i&large,  arched  and  decorated  withDoric 
fnhMnmrj  anpporting  an  arched  pediment  and  Che  arate 
of  the  cMopwaj-    Nearly  opposite  to  dita  hatt  to  SI. 


90  WALKB  THROC7CH   LONDON. 

Anne's  Lane,  with  the  church  of  St.  Anne  and  &• 
Agnei,  a  plain  brick  building,  erected  since  the  fire  of 
London ;  this  lane  leads  to  St  Martin  le  Grand  and 
Bull  and  Mouth-Street ;  the  first  of  these  is  upon  the 
site  of  a  very  ancient  religious  foundation,  and  the  lat* 
ter  only  remarkable  for  a  large  inn,  called  the  Bull  and 
M<mih,  a  corruption  of  BuUoign  Mouth,  in  memory  of 
the  famous  siege  of  that  harbour  by  Henry  the  Eighth. 
Sadler's  Hall  stands  between  Foster-Lane  and  Gut* 
ter-Lane,  in  a  small  court,  with  an  elegant  gate  to 
the  street.  Nearly  at  the  bottom  of  Foster-Lane,  by 
Cheapside,  is  the  parish  church  of  St,  Vedast,  alias  Fof. 
ter.  This  steeple  has  been  deemed  one  of  the  happiest 
efforts  of  Sir  Christopher  Wren ;  and  nearly  opposite  to 
this  church  is  the  site  of  St.  Leonard,  Foster-Lane. 
Proceeding  through  Carey-Lane  into  Gutter-Lane, 
we  meet  with  Embroiderer's  Hall,  a  small  neat  struc« 
tare :  at  the  bottom  of  this,  in  Maiden- Lane,  is  Wax* 
chandla*9  Hall,  a  very  handsome  modem  building; 
and  <^posite  to  this,  at  the  corner  of  Staining-Lane,  is 
Haherdaiher*9  Hall,  a  spacious  pile  of  brick.  Above 
Maiden-Lane,  at  the  corner  of  Huggin-Lane,  is  the 
church  of  St.  Michael,  Wood-Street,  a  stone  structure, 
but  with  nothing  to  recommend  it  to  particular  notice. 
Lad-Lane  is  only  remarkable  on  account  of  the  Swan 
with  Two  Necks ;  an  inn  famous  for  mails  and  stage* 
coaches.  Milk-Street  is  memorable  for  being  the  birth- 
place of  the  celebrated  Sir  Thomas  More.  Returning 
through  King-Street,  formed  since  the  fire  of  London* 
we  come  to  Cheapside,  where  Mercer's  Hall  and  Chapel 
are  the  most  striking  objects.  The  frontof  the  former,  to- 
wards Cheapside,  is  highly  ornamented ;  the  door-case  is 
enriched  with  the  figures  of  two  cupids,mantling  the  arms, 
festoons,  ke.  The  upper  part  of  the  balcony  is  adorned 
with  two  pilasters,  entablature,  and  pediment  of  the 
Ionic  order ;  the  intercolumns  are  the  figures  pf  Faith 
and  Hope,  and  that  of  Charity,  in  a  nich  under  the 


r  THE  T;E^.V  YORK 


t 

1  . LfcMOX 


IViz'/c  7. 


Lit   »   r 


■  '.V.     ''    ...'<•  ('/"'    r.Ji'^tr,.*^    ,..,  *  „     ,       ,,    yy..;^ 

'  'r/    t»tt/..  to   !  r  -li  K'SircTf. 

"     '    {  *  wrcli  '      ^    Mar-ttU     1  .  J''  .'.      ^    •  i«.  ' 

•''         ..»jt.N.    '■»»«!  .){)■  r-."i*  •>  {.Ti-iir*  ;    '•  .     IN^    .•  •      ..       ';... 
■    -til.:.';  ''r'l.  ■     •:•'  jf. 

'«   '  *    111  i'^rtam,  U'Ca-*..*'  it  »t.-«o<l  *»y  ?i>«'  .    ••   ' 
i'»'.l\  C'iu'.  :.-^-,rJ, ''lor..  VVDh-jf  >tr;'i. 

n^f  '/./.  C'Af'irr/:  <K  rivctl  it^  name  :''  ;v  a  'i'.':!  •;; 
.'  .r"«*rpt  «.♦  .uiilii/n\<>  be  cw  .  •  d.  ILi'  :-.■..*.  r»i »  ,- 
^  /.oril  for  l-\rilwrfin  's'  sVard  ;  v.ui  -•;  •!-  ••'•  *h.\  »vi 
.  ir\.'  of  t»it  ^crtX'l,  the  CoJi.cll  uf  y/.  3/cr.7  .*/  -:  ;  rn, 
'Mi  •s.fi-Strefl,  a  snis::'  jujt  51.HJ-;'  p  "»«.j' -^  .-r.-c- 
'  .  MJ«' ri-'ii-'^ure*  ♦ooLlt»r»f»»n«  "h  i«  :•::•>».  :?r*  ►- 
%.  fhtre;  an-*  •aving  tno  f.alL  or.  M.t  »rx»t.     •    *•    •<• 


,*Vf»  ♦ 


WALRS  THEOUGR   LONDON.  91 

cornice  of  the  pediment,  with  other  enrichments.  The 
hall,  with  the  chapel  and  ambulatory,  are  magnificent ; 
the  piazzaa  of  the  latter  being  formed  of  large  columns, 
and  their  entablature  of  the  Doric  order.  The  whole 
pile  waa  destroyed  by  the  great  fire,  and  rebuilt  by  the 
company  in  Its  present  form.  Passing  a  few  houses 
heyond  Meroen*  Hall,  this  walk  terminates  at  the  Old 
Jewry* 


WALK  VIL 


From  Oieapside,  down  Friday-Stnetf  to  JOut^J^Ltmeg 
Old  Orange,  Old  Fiih-Street,  Labour  in  Vain  HUl, 
Thames-Sireet,  Bamet's-HiU,  Knight  Rider-Street, 
Blackfriare,  Ludgate- Street,  St.  Paul's  Ckurch-Yard, 
Gteapeide,  to  Friday-Street. 

The  Church  of  St,  Matthew,  in  Friday-Street,  is  a 
plain  building,  the  walls  and  the  tower  being  of  brick, 
the  window  and  door-cases  stone ;  but  the  interior  has 
nothing  remarkable. 

Proceeding  towards  Watling-Street,  we  come  to  the 
parish  church  of  St.  Augustin,  or  Austin,  finished  in 
the  year  1G95.  This  church,  in  old  records,  was  said 
to  he  ili  Portam,  because  it  stood  by  the  gate  to  St. 
PauPs  Church* Yard,  from  Watling-Street. 

The  Old  Change  derived  its  name  from  a  building  for 
the  receipt  of  bullion  to  be  coined.  Here  is  the  charity- 
schod  for  Cordwainers'  Ward ;  and  at  the  south*west 
angle  of  the  street,  the  Church  of  St.  Mary  Magdalen, 
Old  Pith-Street,  a  small  but  well-proportioned  struc- 
ture. Old  Fish-Street  took  its  name  from  fishmongers  re* 
sidiiig  there,  and  having  two  halls  on  the  spot.    Labour 


M  WALHA  THROVOH   LOMOOIk 

m  Vain  Hill,  now  OM  Fiab  Street  HiH,  |Mrobabty  ve* 
cemd  its  name  from  its  steep  aweat.  It  hid  once  A 
noUe  mtnsioo  on  ita  soraarit,  occupied  by  several  pe^* 
aoMofcaiinence^andnuoogtheai  a  Bisliop  of  Hereford* 
in  the  year  1517.  The  Chorch  of  St.  Mmr^  Mamhmm 
atands  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  chapel  bdocigin|p  to 
this  hovae. 

Returning  up  Labour  in  Vain  Hill,  we  observe  in 
Old  Fish-Street  the  Church  of  St.  Nicholas,  Qole  Ab- 
bey. The  present  edifice  ifrof  stone,  with  a  steeple  of 
*  rather  a  whimsical  taste  :  the  interior  contains  nothing 
worthy  of  particular  notice.  Opposite  this  church  is 
Distqf'Lane,  and  near  the  top  of  it  Cordwainer^'Hail, 
a  handsome  structure,  faced  with  stone,  and  containing 
savenl  excellent  aepartmentfi  fir  the'conT^nienee  of  tte 
company,  and  the  residence  of  the  .biicerst.  Pursuing 
the  walk  down  Friday-Street  to  Bread  Street  Hill  we 
co«i€  to  Tbaine»4gltreet,  nearly  opposite  to  Timber- 
Street,  near  Broken  Wharf;  once  the  sesidence  of  the 
Bigods,  Earls  of  Norfolk,  which,  being  deserted,  be- 
eattae  the  city  brewhfouse.  the  Itall  was  standing  in 
Staw^s  time.  Opposite  to  tfans  wherf  is  she  pariih 
diurch  of  Si.  Maty  Somer's  Hyike,  or  Som^rm^  with  a 
high,  well-proportioned  tower,  crowBed»  at  each  ttigle^ 
witk  vaaes  on  pedestala*  Near  Trig-Laae  is  Boss* Alley, 
ao  cftHed  from  a  boas,  or  water*couf%e.^*JMfc^iinM4'# 
HM  alanda  upon  LamberUHUl ;  a  very  good  huildiii|^ 
with*  stateiy  apartments^  though*  deserted-  by  the  c^m» 
pany. 

Retuming  tio  Thamta^reet,  aod  prooeedtng  ti^t- 
war4>  we  appvoaeh  Sfi.  Peter's  Hill,  and'die  aite  of  the 
antient  churdi  of  Si.  PeHr  the  Lktlc  Opposito  the 
Bortfe  ead  of  St.  Peter's  Hill  is  the  handsome  house 
built  for  the  Unvn^nssidenos  of  Sir  Robert  LadbroiBe^ 
fitther  of  the  city  from  1758  to  If  73. 

Beimels  Ht((.~Here  is  the  College  of  Arms^  com- 


WAUGs  Timovoa  Lommif.  9 

■mdy  edled  Hie  Hrnkd's  Office:  The  front  of  tfiw 
building  »  oramwcnled  widi  rattiCy  on  wbieh  ire  pkoed 
fear  loaic  fifanteri,  rapportkig  «a  aofukr  pediment: 
iIk  «des,  confomable  to  this,  have  arebcd  pediiaefits» 
vbich  are  also  supported  by  Ionic  pilasters.  Within 
II  a  large  room  for  hoqpiag  the  Conrt  «f  Hoooar ;  and 
aU  the  oAces  are  6]iaeiout  and  cod  venicnt.  Hie  north* 
iMit  comer  of  this  twildrng,  effected  at  the  aole  charge 
•r  Sir  WiNiam  Dogdale,  is  a  vmfferm  ifwdrangle;  and 
the  hoUow  arch  af  the  gnteivay  hm  heen  esteeaied  a 
gMtfe  cariosity. 

•  Caoaung  Knight  Rader't  ^9tnK,  the  next  cAject  of 
endoaty  is  Jkmior^M  Commmm,  built  upon  the  mins  of 
the  honac  given  hy  fk<  Harvey ;  pwnwii  to  which, 
lhe<ovriiiana  and  omcniits  irave  badly  aecommodatad 
near  Riftenioatefwitow.  .  . 

..  AttiK  bottom  «r  St.  Beniiel'aHill  iatheChMcbof 
ft.  BenedUt,  cemmonly  caied^dl.  Bennet  1^1%  Vlkmd, 
hvik  of  bnch  and  Mwne,  of  the  Corinthkii  arder^  tiie 
I  behig  ornamented  wMh  aevecai  feateons,  canwd 
Wcatward  efPMe^  H^rf  vaa&rMy/a Jiiii> 
!  of  that  mible  family;  h«t^epriB«i* 
i  spat  wm  BaynondV  Cmilc,  being  one 
of  the  two  castles  bailt  on  the  west  sideof  lhe«ily,iwidi 
faMi  and  innipaitu,  as  meatioaed  by  Fitz-StephenL  •  A 
inatof  tfaa  site^  this  cantte,  which  gare  name  to  the 
ward,  now  coataiping  Cattle  JStaoat,  &c.  isahoaoeapM 
by  the  Carron  Works,  and  the  Castle  Baynard  Copper 
Company's  House  and  Wharf. 

Ascending  St.  Andrew's^Hill,  we  come  to  the  Chnrch 
of  Si,  Andrew  Wardrobe,  a  plain  but  neat  building  of 
brick  and  stone,  the  body  well-enlightened  by  two  rows 
of  windows :  excepting  an  open  balustrade  at  the  top, 
the  tower  is  plain.  This  church  contains  a  tablet  to 
the  memory  of  the  Rev.  William  Romaine,  M.  A.  one 
cf  its  moat  eminent  rectors. 
Proceeding  to  the  northward,  up  Water-tiane,  we 


94  WALKS  THtOUGB  LONDON. 

come  to  Apoth€carie$*  Hali,  a  handsome  edifice,  with 
a  plain  front,  and  gate  leading  to  an  open  court.  Heie 
are  two  large  laboratories,  where  medicines  are  pre* 
pared,  and  drugs  of  all  kinds  sold  to  the  faeuhy,  or 
others. 

Proceeding  to  St  Paul's  Church-Yard,  at  the  east 
end,  we  come  to  Si.  Paul's  School,  a  very  handsome 
edifice.  The  central  building,  containing  the  school, 
is  of  stone,  is  much  lower  than  the  ends,  and  has  only 
one  series  of  large  windows,  raised  a  considerable  height 
from  the  ground.  The  centre  is  adorned  with  rustic, 
and  on  the  top  is  a  handsome  pediment,  with  the  foun- 
der's  arms  placed  in  a  shield.  A  figure  upon  the  apex 
wpresents  Learning.  There  are  two  square  windows 
under  this  pediment,  and  on  each  side  two  circular 
ones,  crowned  with  busts;  the  spaces  between  them 
are  handsomely  ornamented  by  work  in  relievo.  A 
handsome  balustrade  runs  upon  a  level  with  the  foot  of 
the  pediment,  on  each  side  of  which  there  is  a  large 
bust,  with  a  radiant  crown,  between  two  flaming  vases. 

The  sur-master's  house  has  a  very  handsome  front,  an* 
swerable  to  the  high  master's  house  at  the  north  end  of 
Jthe  school,  on  which  b  inscribed,  Mdei  Praceptorii 
€frmimatices, 

Fr<»n  St.  Paul's  Church-Yard  we  proceed  to  Cheap* 
side,  through  the  Old  Change,  and  return  to  the  com* 
mencement  of  this  walk,  at  Friday-Street, 


^!v■^;p,;.•..■a^^A 


,v^' 


■^:'?.^^ 


Walks'^ 


;     -   UUXt   'ir»    .J  ■  * 


.  iver  ill'    ^; 

.    v:Lb   .     .:!..';■ 

'   ..,1    v**."*,  .Ui'   .      •     .;  • 

.  .    (<>*•  "nis ;  o*    f  " 
'  'f      «vh:cii  .•  ;  :  • 

.  .       ■  ..'t'7       .'  'h*  ..'■':  ;  . 

•  •  .-.%  -fia.t/l-       The  ;..»j» 

-•         I  !.**'••.      .  i.  ",  ,  ./i       V       .    ' 

!,  .-•.    •!-. .   •*    •.  I  ••  *  r    tM   •••  • 

•  •>:**:   :t^    •  i  ''*■#.  • 


. .    .^'w.'    i'^,<j 


WALKS  THEOUGH   LONDOIf.  95 


WALK  VIII. 

Pram  Si.  PamPs  Cathedral  and  Qoirch^Yard  to  Ludgate^ 
Sirtei,  Stationer^  Hall,  Amen-Corner,  Paiemotter- 
EaWf  Newgate-Market,  Ivy-Lane,  LoveVs-Coitrt, 
Pammer'Alley^  Newgate- Street,  Christie  Hotpital,  St. 
Bartkolomew*s  Priory,  Charter  Houte,  Smitl^ld, 
Lmdgate,  New  Bridge-Street,  Black(/riar^''Bridge, 
Fleet-Market,  Fleet  Prison,  and  Skinner-Street. 

hi  oar  notice  of  St.  PzuVs  Cathedral,  being  circum- 
tcribed  in  our  limits,  we  must  confine  ourselves  as  nearly 
as  possible  to  an  accurate  outline,  and,  as  in  other  in- 
stances, to  a  minute  detail  of  recent  improvements  and 
alterations. 

llilsatnicture  is  built  of  Portland-stone,  in  the  form 
of  a  cross.  Over  the  space  where  the  lines  of  that 
figure  intersect  each  other,  is  a  stately  dome ;  and  on 
the  summit  of  this  a  beautiful  lanthom,  adorned  with 
Corinthian  columns,  and  surrounded  at  its  base  by  a 
balcony.  On  the  lanthorn  rests  a  gilded  ball  and  a 
cross.  This  church  is  adorned  with  three  porticoes ; 
one  facing  the  west,  and  the  other  two  facing  the  north 
and  south.  The  western  portico  consists  of  twelve  lofty 
Corinthian  columns;  over  these  are  eight  more  of  the 
composite  order,  which  support  a  grand  pediment,  and 
this  contains  the  principal  events  in  the  life  of  St.  Paul 
in  bait  relievo.  This  grand  portico  rests  on  an  elevated^ 
base ;  the  ascent  to  a  flight  of  twenty-two  square  steps 
of  Mack  marble.  The  portico  at  the  northern  entrance 
consists  of  a  dome,  supported  by  six  Corinthian  columns, 
with  an  ascent  of  twelve  circular  steps  of  black  marble. 
Over  the  dome  is  a  pediment,  the  front  being  adorned 
with  the  royal  arms,  regalia,  and  other  ornaments. 
Thf  portico  at  the  southern  entrance  is  similar,  except- 


96  WALKI  TS&OUCa  LONDON. 

iDg  the  ascent,  which  consists  of  twenty-five  steps, 
the  g^und  on  that  side  of  the  cathedral  beings  propor- 
tionably  lower  than  the  other;  and  the  entablature, 
which  represents  a  phoenix  rising  from  the  flames,  by 
Cibber.  Underneath  is  the  word  Rkvegaii.  At  the 
CHiem  extremity  of  the  church  there  is  a  circular  pro* 
jectum,  ibrttiing  a  r&oeflB  within,  for  tbe  communion- 
tUble. 

Tbe  walls  of  this  caithednd  art  wrought  in  rustic, 
iireiifthcned  and  adorned  by  two  rows  of  eoupled  pi- 
lastevB,  the  lower  row  being  of  the  Corinthian,  and  the 
upper  of  the  composite  order.  The  northern  and 
•ottthem  sides  of  Ibis  magnificent  structure  hare  aa  air 
#f  uncomHioii  elegance,  and  tbe  contra  of  the  western 
kctA  are  crowned  witii  twrreto  of  an  airy  and  light  form. 
Iliis  front  i«  extremdy  ndtie^  and  has  therefore  been 
accurately  delineated  in  one  of  the  plates  of  this  wotk« 
Tbe  insidk  of  St  Paul's  is  ao  inuch  iaferior  in  beauty 
lo  its  •exterior,  that,  till  the  monuments  inereased,  it 
vaa  almost  destitute  of  decoration.  The  entire  pave- 
mmX  is  of  MarMe,  consisting  of  square  skbs,  alleniaidy 
lilack  and  while;  the  floar  of  the  akar  is  of  the  aanie 
kfaid  of  toatt4e,  mingled  wtdi  parphyry,  and  isadomod 
with  fbor  fluted  pilasters,  painted  and  veined  with  gold. 
Eight  beautiful  Corinthian  cokunns  of  black  and  wMe 
lUarble  support  tie  oi^gan  ^liery ;  mid  the  veadiog- 
desk  is  oamposed  of  an  eagle  with  expanded  wings, 
atanding  on  a  pillar  sonnniided  with  raik,  (jhe  winfe 
Mng  of  giUed  brass.  Tbe  leagtii  within  of  this  caHhe- 
dfal  is  ftae  hundred  <feet,  the  tneadlh  two  buadised  wd 
My;  fromlbemariilepavoinenttothetopofdiecrasB 
HB  three  iiandrsd  and  foty;  and  the  <ni)oaaiferenoe 
two  thousand  two  faandrad  «nd  ninety-two  feel.  A 
dihn€«tone  wnll,  supporting  an  degam  balustrade  of 
oart'hmi^  currounds  llie  ciureb,  and  sopantlet  tile 
.^tenalHyard,  cnr  a#ea,  fipoma  spacious  oatri«ge*way  an 
thenwtfassde.    Near  Ihe  cumnac  dTlfcia  4w  fifopi 


iFUBLKLIBRARt! 


fMTM.UNeX 
TMMfWM^STWW. 


WALKS  THROUGH    LONDON.  97 

the  west,  stands  the  marble  statue  of  Queen  Anne, 
holding  a  sceptre  in  one  hand,  and  a  globe  in  the  other, 
surrounded  by  four  emblematical  figures,  representing 
Great-Britain,  France,  Ireland,  and  America. 

In  the  open  part  of  this  cathedral  the  stranger  is 
struck  with  the  appearance  of  a  number  of  tattered 
flag^,  the  trophies  of  British  valour.  Those  over  the 
aisle,  leading  from  the  western  door,  were  taken  in  part 
during  the  war  for  American  independence,  and  the 
rest  by  the  Duke  of  York  at  Valenciennes.  Those  on 
both  sides  near  the  north  door  are  French,  taken  by 
Lord  Howe,  in  June,  1794:  opposite  to  the^se,  on  the 
right,  are  the  Spanish  flags,  taken  by  Lord  Nelson, 
in  1797 ;  and  on  the  left  are  those  taken  from  the 
Dutch  by  Lord  Duncan  at  Camperdown,  and  by  Lord 
Keith  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

The  interior  of  the  east  end  of  the  church  exhibits  a 
variety  of  fine  sculpture,  particularly  the  cypher,  W.  R. 
in  a  compartment  of  palm  branches  surmounted  by  an 
.  imperial  crown,  in  honour  of  the  then  reigning  sove- 
reign. King  William  the  I'hird. 

St.  Paul's  Church  is  open  for  divine  service  three 
times  every  day  in  the  year;  at  six  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing in  summer,  and  seven  in  winter;  a  quarter  before 
ten  in  tlie  forenoon,  and  a  quarter  after  three  in  the 
afternoon:  at  all  other  times  the  doors  are  shut,  no 
persons  being  admitted  but  those  who  are  willing  to 
pay  for  seeing  the  church,  or  its  curiosities.  Entrance 
is  always  to  be  had  at  the  north  door,  where  a  person 
attends  to  pass  the  visitors  to  the  staircase  by  which 
they  ascend  to  the  whispering  gallery,  the  top,  &c. 
■  for  which  this  attendant  demands  four-pence.  For 
each  of  the  curiosities,  the  library,  the  model,  &c.  there 
is  a  separate  charge. 

On  viewing  the  interior  of  St.  Paul's  from  the  great 
west  entrance,  the  eye  dwells  with  much  admiration  on 
the  grandeur  of  the  perspective;  though,  on  more  at- 


98  WALKS   THROUGH   LONDON. 

tentive  examination^  the  ponderous  masses  of  its  vast 
piers  are  found  to  give  a  heaviness  to  the  prospect^  and 
the  side  aisles  are  deemed  dispropoitionably  narrow. 
The  vauhing  of  this  church,  however,   merits  great 
praise  for  its  light  and  elegant  construction:  in  this 
each  division  forms  a  low  dome,  the  base  being  en* 
circled  by  a  rich  wreath  of  artificial  foliage.    The  whole 
vault  consists  of  twenty-four  cupolas  cut  ofFsemi-circu- 
larly,  with  segments  to  join  to  the  great  arches  one 
way,  and  which  are  cut  across  the  other  way  with 
elliptical  cylinders  to  let  in  the  upper  lights  of  the  nave  j 
but  in  the  aisles,  the  small  cupc^as  are  both  ways  cut 
into  semi-circular   sections,    altogether  exhibiting  a 
graceful  geometrical  form.    The  arches  and  wreaths 
are  of  stone  carved ;  the  spandrils  between  are  of  sound 
brick  invested  with  stucco  of  cockle-shell  lime,  which 
becomes  as  hard  as  Portland  stone :  these  have  large 
planes  between  the  stone  ribs.    The  circular  pannels 
and  the  spandrils  of  the  vaulting  of  the  aisles  are  sepa- 
rated by  shields,  bordered  with  acanthus  leaves,  fruits, 
and  flowers.    The  alcoves  for  the  windows  are  finely 
disposed,   and  their  arches  are  filled  with   sexagon, 
octagon,  and  other  pannels.    The  whole  church,  above 
the  vaulting,  is  substantially  roofed  with  oak,  covered 
with  lead.    The  Morning-Prayer  Chapel,  on  the  north 
side,  and  the  Consistory  on  the  south,  occupy  the  res- 
pective extremities  of  the  western  transept,  which  is  an 
elegant  part  of  the  building;  these  are  divided  from  the 
aisles  by  insulated  columns  and  screens  of  ornamental 
carved  work.    The  dome,  it  should  be  observed,  is  an 
octagon  formed  by  eight  massive  piers  with  their  corre- 
lative apertures;  four  of  these,  forty  feet  wide,  termi* 
nate  the  middle  aisles,  and  the  others  are  only  twenty- 
eight  feet:  the  spandrtb  between  die  arches  above  form 
the  area  into  a  circle,  which  is  crowned  by  a  large  canti- 
lever cornice,  partly  supporting,  by  its  projection,  the 
Whispering  Gallery.    Above,  from  a  double  plinth  over 


WAtKA  THROUGH  LONDON.  69 

Ibe  cornice  of  the  pilasters,  springs  the  internal  dome, 
the  contour  being  composed  of  two  segments  of  a  circle. 

The  best  $tations  for  viewing  the  paintings  in  the 
cupola  is  the  Whispering  Gallery,  the  ascent  to  which 
is  the  same  as  to  the  top>  by  a  spacious  circular  stair- 
case in  the  south-west  prcyectioo  of  the  principal 
transept.  *  This  gallery  encircles  the  lower  part  of  the 
dome»  and  extends  to  the  extreme  edge  of  the  great 
cantilever  cornice,  but  is  made  perfectly  safe  by  a  hand- 
somely-wrought gilt  railing.  Here  forcibly  shutting 
the  door  causes  a  strong  reverberating  sound  not  un* 
like  the  rolling  of  thunder,  and  also  a  sensible  vibration 
in  the  building ;  whilst  a  iow^  whisper  breathed  against 
the  wall  may  be  accurately  distinguished  by  an  atten« 
tire  ear  on  the  opposite  side. 

Hie  decease  of  Howard,  the  Philanth'ophisf,  who 
expired  at  Cherson,  in  Rusisian  Turkey,  in  1790,  wa3 
the  immediate  event  that  led  to  the  erection  of  n)onu- 
ments  in  this  church.  It  was  suggested  that  the  dean 
and  chapter  should  be  solicited  to  grant  their  permi&- 
aioD  for  the  erection  of  a  statue  of  Howard,  when  it  was 
intimated,  that  as  this  would  become  a  precedent  for 
future  application,  no  monument  should  be  erected  un- 
less the  design  was  fint  approved  of  by  a  committee  of 
the  Royal  Academicians. 

Though  the  permission  for  Howard's  statue  was  first 
granted,  that  of  the  celdarated  I^.  Johnson  was  prior 
in  its  erection. 

Against  the  south-west  pLer  is  placed  the  statue  of 
Sir  William  Jones,  by  Mr.  Bacon,  jun.  in  the  act  of 
study,  leaning  on  The  Institutes  of  Menu,  with  an 
inscription.  The  base  of  the  north->west  pier  is  occu- 
pied by  the  statue  of  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  the  first 
Pretident  of  the  Royal  Aeademy,  by  Mr.  Flaxman, 
with  a  Latin  inseription.  In  the  south  transept  are  the 
monuments  of  Captain  Burgess  and  Captain  Faulkner ; 
the  paimel  over  his  tomb  is  to  the  memory  of  Captain 


loo  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

R.  W.  Miller.  The  opposite  pannel  is  appropriated  to 
Captain  Hardinge ;  the  work  executed  by  the  late  Mr. 
Charles  Manning.  Tlie  monument  of  Major  General 
Dundas^  by  Mr.  Bacon,  jun.  is  in  the  north  transept ; 
and  that  opposite,  to  the  memory  of  the  late  CapUin 
Westcott,  is  by  Mr.  Banks.  Near  to  this  is  the  monu- 
ment of  Generals  Crauford  and  Mackinnon,  by  Mr. 
Bacon,  jun.  A  tabular  monument,  to  the  Major- 
Generals  Mackenzie  and  Langworth,  occupies  the  oppo- 
site pannel.  The  rece»s  under  the  west  window  of  the 
north  transept  exhibits  a  group  in  honour  of  Lord 
Rodney,  by  Mr.  Charles  Rossi ;  and  the  opposite  recesa 
is  filled  with  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  Captaina 
Mosse  and  Riou,  by  the  same  artist.  Under  the  east 
window  of  the  south  transept  is  a  monument  to  Earl 
Howe,  by  Mr.  Flaxman,  the  inscription  expressing 
that  it  was  erected  at  the  public  expense  to  his  me- 
mory. The  monumental  group  erected  in  honour  of 
Sir  Ralph  Abercrombie  is  under  the  opposite  window  of 
the  transept,  and  is  the  work  of  Mr.  Westmacott.  Sir 
John  Moore's  monument,  by  Mr.  Bacon,  jun.  repr^ 
sents  his  interment  by  the  hands  of  Valour  and  Victory. 
The  corresponding  window  is  reserved  for  a  monument 
to  Lord  Collingwood,  executing  by  Mr.  Westmacott* 
That  of  Marquis  Comwallis  is  placed  against  one  of 
the  great  piers  between  the  dome  and  the  choir ;  and 
the  corresponding  situation,  at  present  unoccupied,  it 
intended  for  another,  by  Mr.  Flaxman,  to  the  memory 
of  the  late  Lord  Nelson,  who  was  buried  under  the 
dome  of  this  cathedral,  in  1806.  The  pannel  above 
contains  Captain  DufPs  monument,  who  fell  at  Tra- 
falgar, by  Mr.  Bacon;  and  the  alto  relievo,  in  the 
opposite  pannel,  is  to  the  memory  of  Captain  John 
Cook,  of  the  Bellerophon,  killed  in  the  battle  of 
Trafalgar.  Last,  but  not  least,  we  would  direct  the 
stranger's  attention  to  a  plain  marble  slab  under  the 
organ  leading  to  the  choir,  that  commemorates  the 


WALKS  THROUGH  LOMDOM.  lOl 

architect  ander  whose  Miperinteiidance  the  cathedral 
was  reboiU,  with  a  Latin  inscriptioD  thus  translated : 

'*  Underneath  lies  CHtisTOPHSR  Wren,  the  builder 

•f  this  church  and  this  city ;  who  lived  upwards  of 

ninetjT  years  ;  not  for  himself,  but  for  the  public  good. 

Reader !  would  you  search  out  his  monument  ? 

Look  around/' 

Th«  canons  residentiary  preach  alternately  every 
Sunday  afternoon ;  and  there  is  also  a  sermon  every 
church  holiday  at  St.  Paul's,  and  on  the  Wednesdays 
and  Fridays  during  Lent  The  choral  service  is  per- 
formed daily  in  great  perfection,  when  the  solemn 
harmonies  of  Tallis,  Gibbons,  and  Purcell,  the  lighter 
compositions  of  Boyce  and  Kent,  and  the  sublime 
chonisses  of  Handel,  may  be  heard  with  great  efiecL 
But  the  greatest  treat  for  the  admirers  of  sacred 
harmony  is  the  Music  Meeting,  in  the  month  of 
May,  for  the  benefit  of  widows  and  orphans  of 
necessitous  clergymen :  one  of  the  royal  dukes,  the 
Lord  Mayor,  most  of  the  bishops,  and  many  other 
distinguished  characters,  attend  as  stewards.  Every 
visitor  is  expected  to  contribute  to  the  charity  on 
entering  the  church,  but  no  ticket  is  required. 

Another  meeting  equally  honourable,  and  still  more 
gratifying  to  the  benevolence  of  the  age,  is  held  in  the 
month  of  June,  when  from  eight  to  ten  thousand  children, 
ckithed  and  educated  in  the  Parochial  Schools,  are 
here  aseembled  from  all  parts  of  this  vast  metropolis. 
The  conspicuous  manner  in  which  these  children  are 
seated,  in  a  temporary  erection  beneath  the  dome,  in  a 
kind  of  amphitheatre,  has  an  astonishing  eflfect  upon 
the  mind  of  sensibility  reflecting  upon  the  numbers 
thus  rescued  from  vice  and  misery,  and  introduced  into 
tbe  paths  of  virtue  and  happiness.  Taking  this  object 
into  consideration,  tbus  cathedral  was  never  more  dis- 


lOi  WA1K&  THUOUOH  LONDOH. 

trogttished  than  in  June,  1814,  when  it  was  visited  by  the 

Prince  Regent  of  England,  and  the  sovereigns  of  Russia 

and  Prussia,  with  several  other  noble  personages,  for  the 

purpose  of  witnessing  the  annual  assemblage  of  tlie 

charity  children ;  the  temporary  alterations  were  then 

considerable,  and  corresponded  with  the  magnificence 

of  the  visitors.    A  boarded  avenue  was  made  from  the 

door  under  the  western  portico  to  the  bottom  of  the 

stone  steps,  twenty  feet  wide.    From  the  great  w^estern 

door  was  another  avenue,  railed  off  on  each  side  to  the 

iron  gate  in  front  of  the  choir>  covered  with  crimson 

eloth  and   malted.     A    company  of  soldiers   were 

stationed  in  the  area,  and  the  avenue  lined  with  a 

double  file  as  fhr  as  the  circle  under  the  dome :  round 

thi^  circle  was  a  row  of  sailors  supporting  difftreni 

fiftgs,  and  in  the  centre  some  officers  with  colours. 

From  this  space  into  the  centt*^  of  the  church,  which 

ivas  occupied  by  ^he  iroyal  pew,  the  yeomen  of  the 

^uard  were  plated  ill  full  dress.    The  pew  for  the 

Ptince  Regent  was  built  at  the  entrance  of  the  chancel 

under  the  organ-lofl,  elevated  about  eighteen  inches 

above  the  floor.    A  beautiful  Canopy  of  crimson  velvet, 

with  tassels  and  rich  gilt  ornaments,  was  suspended 

fVom  the  chain  which  supports  the  great  brass  chande* 

lier,  surmounted  by  the  Prince  of  Wales's  plume,  with 

the  regal  coronet  underneath,   and   decorated  with 

appfbp'riate  embellishments.    From  this  pew  up  to  the 

great  window  were  rows  of  beticlies  for  the  accooi- 

ihodation  of  the  deans  and  other  memberB  ef  the 

ehurch.    Among  the  numerous  aeats  appropriated  to 

diJfTerent  descriptions  of  persons,  the  top  one  for  the 

City  Corporation,  was  nearly  as  high  as  the  cornice 

under  the  Whispeting  Gallery.     On    t^Ch   side  of 

the  circle  to  the  door  of  the  chancel  were  two  fine 

temporary  galleries  for  the  attendants  of  the  Lord 

Chamberlain.    On  each  side  of  the  royal  pew  wtrt 

seals  for  the  heralds.    The  Arthl>ishop  of  Canterbury's^ 


WALK*  THBOUOH  LOVDOK.  lOS 

boK  was  on  the  Hgbt,  and  the  Lord  Privy  Seal  on  tbe 
kft.  Between  the  royal  pew  and  the  reading  desk 
was  the  Woolsack,  with  twenty-four  seats,  for  the 
Master  of  the  Rolls,  Vice  Chancellor,  and  Judges. 
Instead  of  the  iron  gate,  on  this  occasion,  a  pair  of 
glass  folding-doors  were  made,  for  the  purpose  of 
screeniog  off  the  cold,  or  draught  of  air,  which  might 
hare  been  felt  as  an  inconvenience  in  the  royal  box, 
and  which  it  would  have  been  well  to  have  continued 
for  winter  use,  at  least  in  a  church  that  being  always 
without  fire,  is  constantly  cold. 

Underneath  the  cathedral  formerly  stood  the  parish 
church  of  St.  Faith,  being  first  called  Ecclesia  Sanctte 
Fidci  in  Qyptis;  or  the  church  of  St  Faith  in  the 
vaults  underground,  being  situated  at  the  west  end  of 
Jcsua  Chapel,  under  the  choir  of  this  cathedral  Part 
of  tbe  church-yard  belonging  to  St  Faith's  parish  was 
taken  to  enlai^  the  street  at  the  east  end  of  St.  Paul's 
church-yard,  and  the  remainder  of  this  ground  serves 
as  a  burial  place  for  the  adjacent  parishes.  This 
church  was  demolished  to  make  way  for  the  enlarge- 
ment of  St  Paul's,  between  the  years  1251  and  1256, 
though  a  part  still  remained  under  the  choir  for  the 
parishioners  of  St  Faith,  as  their  parish  church. 

ne  Ckofim-'Home,  on  the  north  side  of  St  Paul's 
church-yard,  is  a  handsome  modem  brick  buildings 
in  which  the  convocation  of  the  province  of  Canter^ 
bury  meet  when  summoned  by  the  king's  writ 

The  first  place  on  the  north  side  of  Ludgate-Street 
is  Ave  Meria  Lane,  inhabited  by  booksellers,  printers, 
and  other  traders.  On  the  west  side  is  an  <^n  square 
court,  containing  Stationers'-Court  and  Stationera'- 
Hall.  The  approach  to  this  hall  is  very  airy  and 
capacious;  an  iron  railing  incloses  a  court  before  the 
structure,  which,  within  a  few  years  past,  has  been 
cased  with  stone,  and  the  windows  arched  and  sashed. 
A  circular  flight  of  stone  steps  face  the  grand  entrance 


104  WALKS   THROUGH   LONDOIf. 

ou  the  lett    The  interior  is  noble^  and  the  hall  and 
court-rooms  conlaiD  a  number  of  excellent  paiotings. 

This  hall  stands  on  the  site  of  a  spacious  building, 
belonging  to  John,  Duke  of  Bretagne,  and  Earl  of 
Richmond,  in  the  reigns  of  Edward  the  Second  and 
Third ;  and  falling  to  other  noblemen,  was  called 
Bergavenny- Mouse,  till  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth, 
when  being  disused,  the  Company  of  Stationers  pur- 
chased it  and  rebuilt  it  of  wood :  being  destroyed  by 
the  great  fire,  the  present  structure  was  afterwards 
built.  A  small  passage  leads  from  Stationers' -Court  to 
Amen  Corner. 

Paiemostcr-Row  is  a  long  narrow  street,  mostly 
inhabited  by  booksellers.  It  received  its  name  from 
those  persons  who  formerly  were  manufacturers  of 
paternosters,  beads,  rosaries,  &c.  during  the  times  of 
superstition.  It  was  afterwards  famous  for  lacemen, 
mercers,  and  other  businesses  of  a  like  nature. 

Newgate  Market, — ^This  is  commodious  and  con- 
tained in  a  square,  and  is  a  common  market  every  day 
in  the  week  for  all  kinds  of  provisions,  though  the 
meat  market  for  country  dealers  is  confined  to  Mon- 
days, Wednesdays,  and  Fridays.  The  nuisances  in  the 
avenues  of  this  market,  particularly  those  which  arise 
from  the  slaughter-houses  in  Warwick-Lane,  notwith- 
standing the  efibrts  made  to  remove  them  by  some 
respectable  inhabitantii,  still  continue  to  annoy  and 
endanger  the  lives  and  the  safety  both  of  passengers 
and  inhabitants. 

Ivy-Lane  was  so  called  on  account  of  the  ivy  which 
grew  on  the  walls  of  the  prebendal  houses  that  stood 
in  this  avenue. 

LovelW'Court,  in  Paternoster- Row,  is  built  on  the 
site  of  a  mansion  anciently  belonging  to  the  Earls  of 
Bretagne,  and  afterwards  to  the  family  of  Lovell. 

Queen  Arm's  Passage,  opposite  to  Minor  Canon 
Alley,  has  been  noted  many  years  past,  for  the  public 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  105 

ordinary   known  by  the  name  of  DoUy^g  Beef  Steak 
House  and  Queen's  Head  Tavern. 

Pamnier-Ailey  is  named  from  a  stone  monument, 
erected  on  the  6th  of  August,  1668,  having  the  figitre 
of  a  pannier,  on  which  a  naked  boy  is  sitting  with  a 
buncb  of  grapes  held  between  his  hand  and  foot,  and 
underneath  the  foU^tiriir^tjf  ^*ftiit>iit «  .   _ — .^ 


.1    «r      /.     I.    -'" 


f 


i^.J^.   m- 


104  WALKS   THROUGH   LONDOIf. 

ou  the  lett  The  interior  is  noble>  and  the  hall  and 
court-rooms  contain  a  number  of  excellent  paintings. 
This  hall  stands  on  the  bite  of  a  spacious  building, 
belonging  to  John>  Duke  of  Bretagne,  and  Earl  of 
Richmond,  in  the  reigns  of  Edward  the  Second  and 
Third;  and  falling  to  other  noblemen,  was  called 
guse,  till  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth j; 


.1      .     ',  . 


II  ■  •••    : 


.1         ..  I  ;  •  «  •  .   '       It 


WALKS  THROUGH    LONDON.  105 

ordinary  known  by  the  name  of  Dolly's  Beef  Steak 
House  and  Queen's  Head  Tavern. 

Pannier'Alley  is  named  from  a  stone  monument, 
erected  on  the  6th  of  August,  1668,  having  the  figure 
of  a  pannier,  on  which  a  naked  boy  is  sitting  with  a 
boncb  of  g^pes  hdd  between  his  hand  and  foot,  and 
underneath  the  following  couplet : 

Wbeo  joa  bare  soagfat  the  citj  roond. 
Yet  still  this  is  the  highest  groood. 

Netvgaie- Street. — Bagnio-Court  here  is  supposed  to 
have  been  the  first  bagnio,  or  bath,  for  sweating  and 
hot  bathing  in  England :  it  afterwards  became  a  hotel 
or  lodging-bouFC. 

Over  the  entrance  of  Bull  Head  Court  is  a  small 
stone,  sculptured  with  the  figures  of  William  Evans, 
the  gigantic  porter  belonging  to  Charles  I.  and  his 
diminutive  fellow-servant,  Jejffery  Hudson,  dwarf  to 
the  said  monarch,  as  represented  in  the  wood*cut. 


106  WALKS  THIOUGH  LONDON. 

Jeflerey  Hudson,  when  he  was  about  seven  or  eigbt 
years  of  age,  was  sen'ed  up  at  table  in  a  cold  pie  at 
Burleigh  on  the  Hill,  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Bucking- 
bam;  and  as  soon  as  he  made  his  appearance  was 
presented  by  the  Duchess  to  the  Queen,  who  retained 
him  in  her  service :  he  was  then  but  eighteen  inches 
in  height.  In  a  masque  at  court,  the  gigantic  porter 
drew  him  out  of  his  pocket,  to  the  surprise  of  all  the 
courtiers.  He  is  said  not  to  have  grown  any  taller 
till  after  thirty,  when  he  shot  up  to  three  feet  nine 
inches.  Soon  after  the  breaking  out  of  the  civil  war, 
he  was  made  a  captain  in  the  royal  army.  In  1664, 
he  attended  the  queen  into  France,  where  he  had  a 
quarrel  with  a  gentleman  named  Crofts,  whom  be 
challenged.  Mr.  Crofts  came  to  the  place  of  appoint* 
ment,  armed  only  with  a  squirt.  A  real  duel  soon 
after  ensued,  in  which  the  antagonists  engaged  on 
horseback:  Crofts  was  shot  dead  the  first  fire.  Jelierey 
returned  to  England  at  the  Restoration,  and  was  after- 
wards confined  in  the  gate-house  at  Westminster,  oo 
suspicion  of  being  concerned  in  the  Popish  Plot.  He 
died  in  confinement,  in  the  sixty-third  year  of  his  age. 
Ashmole's  Museum  at  Oxford  contained  his  waistcoat, 
breeches,  and  stockings;  the  former  of  blue  satin, 
slashed  and  ornamented  with  blue  and  white  silk ;  the 
two  latter  were  of  one  piece  of  blue  satin. 

The  church  of  St.  Nicholas  Shambles  formerly 
occupied  the  site  of  Bull  Head  Court,  and  received 
this  name  from  the  shambles  which  stood  in  the  middle 
of  the  street,  on  the  north  side  of  which  was  a  lane 
called  Pentecost-Lane,  like  Warwick-Lane  at  present 
nearly  filled  with  slaughter-houses. 

Grey  Friars, — This  ancient  structure,  part  of  which 
is  still  standing,  derives  its  origin  from  a  religious 
order,  founded  by  St,  Francis  D'Assisi,  in  1228,  and 
was  greatly  augmented  by  the  benevolence  of  Queen 
Margaret,  second  wife  to  Edward  the  First. 


MttOH.LltWi 


JBLKLIBRARt 


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WALKS   THROUGH   LONDON.  107 


. !   •       • 


;          •.*/    •     .   -  Uid     .l.'Jl     .•    ''Jit    ,.^.'1     .  .'■    ••    •  ••      '       ". 
k:]\   .s'i.H   .'  •!  :    lr«-    ':•«    '     ;•  -^  If  ■•    •  ;     '. 
...  «    'V  i.    '-      .'!.  r;.-  .1'^    '•     .^  •••'■    '  .        .     ., 

;..,.,     .         .>•  •    .       .   ♦:  .    .    ^ H  .'•        ' 

...    ; \  \'  -  -•*      ■  *  ..!•    . 

T     ■  ..     ^    '    !  .1  -^   «»'  .i  .'   ■      • 

J9  an  oid  cioisit*   ^-^  u*c  uic)    i.iai:?,   ^dii  'A  ".  - 
priory.      It  serves  for  a  public  thoroughfare  from 


5r 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  107 

Christ  Church  is  situated  behind  the  houses  on  the 
norlh  side  of  Newgate-Street,  and  was  the  church 
belonging  to  the  Grey  Friars,  which  was  given  for  a 
parish  church  by  Henry  the  Eighth  after  the  Reforma- 
tion, in  lieu  of  the  two  churches  of  St.  Ewen,  in  New- 
gate Market  and  8t«  Nicholas  in  the  Shambles. 

That  the  old  church  of  the  Grey  Friars  was  a  mag- 
niflcient  structure,  is  confirmed  by  Wcever  in  his 
"  Funeral  Monuments,"  who  informs  us,  that  here 
were  buried  four  queens^  four  duchesses,  four  coun- 
tenses,  one  duke,  two  earls,  eight  barons,  thirty-fi?e 
knight9,  &c.  in  all,  six  hundred  and  sixty- three  persons 
of  quality  were  interred  here,  before  the  dissolution 
of  the  conrent.  In  the  choir  were  nine  tombs  of 
^abaster  and  marble,  besides  a  great  number  of  marble 
grave-stones. 

This  church,  three  hundred  feet  long,  eighty-nine 
broad,  and  sixty-four  feet  two  inches  high,  was  burnt 
down  in  the  great  fire  of  London,  since  which,  only 
the  choir,  or  east  end,  has  been  rebuilt,  with  a  tower 
added  to  it :  this  tower  is  square  and  of  considerable 
height,  crowned  with  a  light  and  handsome  turret 
neatly  adorned :  the  interior  is  correspondent.  There 
are  very  large  galleries  on  the  north,  south,  and  west 
tides,  for  the  use  of  the  scholars  of  Christ's  Hospital, 
with  a  stately  organ  in  the  centre.  Here  the  Spital 
sermons  have  been  preached  in  the  Easter  week,  since 
they  were  discontinued  at  St.  Bride's,  Fleet -Street ;  and 
an  annual  sermon  is  also  preached  on  St.  Mathew't 
Day,  before  the  Lord  Mayor,  aldermen,  and  governors 
«f  Christ's  Hospital,  after  which  the  senior  scholars 
make  Latin  and  English  orations  in  the  great  hall, 
preparatory  to  their  being  sent  to  the  University. 

Christ's  Hospital. — This  was  founded  by  Edward 
the  Sixth.  Of  the  ancient  buildings  remaining,  there 
is  an  old  cloister  of  the  Grey  Frian,  part  of  their 
priory.      It  serves  for  a  public  thoroughfare  from 


106  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

Newgate-Street  to  Smithfield,  and  is  a  place  of  recrea- 
tion for  the  boys,  especially  in  rainy  weather.  The 
reparations  which  this  part  underwent  by  Sir  Chris- 
topher Wren>  have  nearly  deprived  it  of  its  ancient 
appearance. 

The  new  Graoimar-school  is  a  very  commodious  struc- 
ture, well  adapted  to  its  intention.  The  Writing- 
school,  at  the  end  of  the  great  hall,  is  very  lody  and 
airy,  and  was  founded  by  Sir  John  Moor,  Knt.  and 
Alderman  of  the  City ;  and  contains  a  desk  at  which 
three  hundred  boys  may  sit  and  write.  This  school 
rests  upon  columns,  and  the  space  beneath  is  allotted 
for  play  and  exercise.  Sir  John  Moor's  statue,  in 
white  marble,  at  full  length,  is  placed  in  the  front 
of  the  building.  The  expenditure  of  the  whole  esta- 
blishment of  this  hospital  has  been  estimated  at  30,000/. 
per  annum. 

Many  great  and  gross  abuses  having  been  represented 
as  subsisting  in  the  disposal  of  the  funds  of  this  hos- 
pital, it  induced  Mr.  Waithman,  one  of  the  Common 
Council  for  Farringdon  without,  to  institute  an  enquiry, 
the  result  of  which  made  it  evident,  that  instead  of 
being  a  benefit  to  the  children  of  the  poor  and  friend- 
less, it  was  engrossed  almost  exclusively  by  the  rich. 
It  had  long  been  known  that  presentations,  instead  of 
being  given,  had  been  sold  by  some  of  those  who  had 
the  disposal  of  them,  at  an  average  of  about  thirty  guineas 
each.  It  even  ap|)eared,  that  a  clergyman  in  Middle- 
sex, with  a  living  not  less  than  1200/.  per  annum,  had 
solicited  and  received  a  presentation  for  one  of  his  sons 
from  a  member  of  the  county. — On  Thursday,  Jan. 
25,  1810,  Mr.  Waithman  brought  in  the  report  of  the 
eomniittee  appointed,  to  consider  of  the  conduct  of 
the  governors  of  Christ's  Hospital,  which  stated,  that 
upon  consulting  Mr.  Samuel  Romilly  and  Mr.  Bell, 
they  recommended  the  petitioning  of  the  Lord  Cban- 
4;eUor;  and  the  committee  was  therefore  requested  to 


•<l'     .tef? 


--wrT*-:* 


106  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 


-...  4.-,!  \   .:. i--.-  ;    . .   ..  -.,'•    y^!." 

•*•      '*.  »!lif     ;*     .• »,    !•■    X    '  ■   •'•    •    ,  •     '  ••       «  •  1)1        '    .  . 

:  ].'  •■.,\    , ,,,  t^  ^1'.    :  .1  .  t'.  I .        I.        .  ,  .•  I,  .:   I  .  1*     :i 

IDey  recommended  the  petitioning  of  the  Lord  Cban- 
4;ellor;  and  the  committee  was  therefore  requested  t* 


J  I. 


WALKS  TBROUCH  LONDON.  109 

prefMire  a  petition  accordingly.    Unhappily  the  in- 
efficiency of  this  enquiry  appeared  very  striking,  after 
waiting  some  years  for  its  aid ;  as  at  a  meeting  of  the 
Common  Council,  in  the  beginning  of  January,  1816, 
Mr.  Waithroan  said,  the  way  in  which  the  Hospital 
Committee  managed  was,  that  the  members  of  it  were 
for  life,  and  they  elected  new  ones  to  fill  up  the  vacan- 
cies occasioned  by  death  in  their  own  number.    The 
children  were  admitted  by  the  almoners ;  and,  in  many 
instances^  the  children  of  persons  possessing  six,  seven, 
eight,  nine,  ten,  eleven,  und  even  some  of  1900/.  a  year 
had  been  admitted:  yet  when  an  enquiry  was  insti- 
tuted into  these  abuses,  he  found  not  one  commoner 
or  alderman  to  stand  by  his  side,  or  to  support  him. 
The  great  fault  lay  in  the  composition  of  this  com* 
mittee,  four  or  five  of  whom  managed  the  whole  of 
the  afiairs  of  the  hospital  completely.    The  committee 
ought  to  be  elected  annually.     He  then  moved,  that 
Ibis  memorial  be  referred  to  the  committee  for  enquir- 
ing into  the  afl&irs  of  Christ's  Hospital. 

Mr.  Jacks  and  Sir  W.  Curtis  wished  it  to  be  referred 
to  the  committee  of  City  Lands,  and  Mr.  Waithman» 
again  foiled  in  his  laudable  efibrts,  withdrew  his 
motion. . 

It  is  remarkable  that  since  this  perversion  of  these 
noble  funds  has  been  increasing,  a  circumstance  not 
sufficiently  noticed  will  appear  evident  in  its  object  to 
the  judicious  observer.  As  testimonies  to  the  original 
design  of  this  foundation,  a  statue  of  a  Blue  Coat  Boy 
in  each  of  the  four  comers  of  the  cloisters  had,  within 
the  recollection  of  several  persons  living,  the  following 
painted  notice  underneath : 

"  This  is  Christ's  Hospital,  where  poor  Blue  Coat 
Boys  are  harboured  and  educated.'' 

What  sacrilegious  hand  removed  this  salutary  land- 


no  WALKS    THaoUGH    LONDON. 

mark,  set  up  by  the  piety  of  our  ancetitors,  we  caooot 
at  this  distance  of  time  point  out.  It  would  seem  that 
some  reasons,  not  the  most  commendable,  must  have 
been  felt  for  getting  rid  even  of  these  dumb  witnesses; 
or,  that  modern  pride  and  false  refinement  could  not 
bear  the  implication  that  the  objecu  of  this  charity 
were  still,  as  they  were  originally  termed,  "  The 
children  of  poor  distressed  men  and  poor  distressed 
women.'' 

However,  that  the  public  may  be  satisfied  with  the 
excellent  mode  of  education  pursued  in  this  national 
institution,  the  various  specimens  of  the  boys'  perfor- 
mances are  exhibited  at  stated  times  in  the  great  halh 

''  The  Public  Suppers,''  in  the  great  hall,  'from 
Christmas  till  Easter,  commence  about  six  o'clock. 
Three  tables  are  covered  with  neat  cloths,  wooden 
platters,  little  wooden  buckets  for  beer,  with  bread, 
butter,  &c.  The  ceremony  commences  with  three 
strpkes  of  a  mallet,  producing  the  most  profound 
silence.  One  of  the  seniors  having  ascended  the  pulpit, 
reads  a  chapter  from  the  Bible ;  and  during  prayers 
the  boys  stand  and  pronounce  the  Amen  all  together. 
A  hymn,  sung  by  the  whole  assembly,  accompanied 
by  the  organ,  concludes  this  part  of  the  solemnity. 
At  the  supper,  the  Treasurer,  governors,  and  persons 
admitted  by  tickets,  which  9re  easily  obtained^  are 
seated  at  the  south  end  of  the  hall.  The  Master, 
Steward,  Matron,  &c.  are  at  the  north  end,  with 
several  nurses  at  the  tables  to  preserve  regularity.  At 
the  conclusion  of  the  supper,  the  doors  of  the  adjoin- 
ing wards  are  thrown  open,  and  the  boys  proceed  in 
the  following  order : — The  nurse ;  a  boy  carrying  two 
lighted  candles ;  others  with  bread-baskets  and  trays, 
and  the  remainder  in  pairs,  who  all  pay  their  obedience 
as  they  pass. 

In  a  niche  over  the  avenue  into  the  hospital,  from 
the  passage  leadmg  from  Newgate-Street  to  the  west 


WALKS   THROUGH    LONDON.  HI 

door  of  Christ's  Church,  is  the  sUtue  of  Edward  the 
Sixth,  as  represented  in  the  wood-cut.  That  of  ChaHes 
the  Second  emhellishei  the  entrance  of  the  hospital 
from  Newgate-Streel,  opposite  WarwickLane,  rtill 
called  Grty  Friars. 


A  passage  from  under  the  Writing-school,  through 
the  court  called  the  Cloisters,  leads  to  St.  Bartkoh- 
mew's  Hospital. — This  structure,  founded  mostly  on 
the  site  of  the  hospital  built  by  Rahere^  was  begun  by 
Gibbs,  in  1730.  The  exterior  towards  GilUpur-Street 
is  a  good  piece  of  Doric  architecture,  with  a  large  gate 
and  foot- way  on  each  side  and  two  round  windows ; 
the  basement  is  rustic,  and  four  pillars  support  an 
entablature  and  a  pediment*  In  the  centre  are  two 
plain,  and  a  handsome  Venetian  window ;  over  them  a 
circular  and  two  attic  windows.  In  the  tympanum 
are  well  sculptuied  enrichments.     The  north  portal 


lis  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

faces  Smithfietd ;  here  the  entrance  appears  loo  dimi- 
nutive; the  hasement  is  rustic,  through  which  is  a 
very  large  arch.  A  good  figure  of  Henry  the  Eighth 
stands  on  a  pedestal  over  the  key-stone  in  a  niche, 
guarded  by  two  pillars  on  each  side  of  the  Corinthian 
order.  Underneath  the  statue  of  Henry  is  the  follow- 
ing inscription : 

''  St.  Bartholomew's  Hospital,  founded  by  Rahere 
Anno  1122,  refounded  by  Henry  the  Eighth,  1546.'' 

Above  is  a  severed  circular  pediment ;  on  the  seg- 
ment of  this  recline  two  emblematic  hnmau  figures, 
one  representing  lameness,  the  other  sickness:  the 
pilasters  supporting  the  pediment,  &c.  are  Ionic,  with 
festoons  suspended  from  the  volutes.  Under  the  grand 
pediment  is  a  clock,  with  several  embellishments; 
the  tympanum  is  ornamented  with  the  arms  of  Eng- 
land. The  grand  pile  next  Smithfield  is  well  worthy 
of  notice.  The  staircase  was  painted  by  Hogarth  at 
his  own  expense.  The  principal  subjects  are.  The 
Good  Samaritan,  and  the  Pool  of  Bethesda.  In  another 
part  is  Rahere  laying  the  foundation  stone  of  the  first 
hospital ;  a  sick  man  carried  on  a  bier,  attended  by 
monks,  &c.  The  hall  at  the  head  of  the  staircase  is 
a  grand  and  spacious  apartment,  and  contains  portraits 
of  Henry  the  Eighth,  Charles  the  Second^  and  a  fine 
full-length  of  the  famous  Dr.  Radclifie,  who  left  500/. 
per  annum  for  the  improvement  of  the  diet,  and  100/. 
per  annum  to  purchase  linen  for  the  patients.  Here  is 
a  fine  portrait  of  Percival  Pott,  Esq.  many  years  an 
eminent  surgeon  to  this  hospital,  painted  by  Sir 
Joshua  Reynolds. 

The  centre  of  the  great  quadrangle  has  lately  been 
ornamented  with  a  curious  cylindrical  pump  enclosed 
within  a  handsome  iron  railing,  for  the  use  of  the  boa- 
pital.    The  water  is  drawn  from  a  very  deep  spring  on 


^     Wfi 


'UA     'Si'i:»J**-> . 


•■■■-;<  . 
•   ULi  'riKARY 


WALKS  THROUGH    LONDON.  113 

the  spot,  evidently  connected  with  another  tpting 
which  supplied  the  late  Mr.  Whitbread's  brewhouse 
ih  Chiswell-Street ;  because,  when  much  water  wa« 
drawn  at  either  place,  the  other  failed. 

The  Church  of  St.  Bartholomew  the  Less,  formerly 
the  chapel  of  the  hospital,  stands  on  the  side  of  the 
large  entrance  from  Smithfield :  the  tower  is  ancient; 
the  form  of  the  buildfng  is  Gothic :  at  the  south-west 
comer  is  a  small  turret :  a  large  window  on  the  side  of 
the  passage  displays  the  arms  of  Mr.  Henry  Andrews, 
Alderman,  1666.  The  south  side  contains  mullioned 
windows,  now  stopped  up,  and  some  ancient  sculpture 
of  the  anus  of  Edward  the  Confessor,'  impaled  with 
the  bearings  of  Henry  the  Second,  under  an  imperial 
crown,  and  angels  with  blank  shields. 

ffegi  Smiihjield  is  so  called  to  distinguish  it  from 
East  Smithfield,  near  the  Tower  of  London.  Smithfield 
always  was  and  siill  continues  a  market-place  for  cattle, 
hay,  and  stray ;  and  once  in  the  year,  at  Bartholomew 
tide,  old  stile,  it  is  noted  for  the  annual  nuisance,  called 
Bartholomew  Fair.  This  originated  in  a  charter 
granted  by  Henry  the  Second  to  the  priory  of  Bar- 
tholomew, to  which  the  clothiers  of  England  and  the 
drapers  of  London  repaired,  and  had  their  booths  and 
standings  in  the  church-yard  within  the  priory,  sepa-> 
rated  from  Smithfield  by  walls  and  gates  that  we^-e 
locked  every  night. 

The  spot  in  the  centre  of  the  pens,  and  opposite  the 
Hospital  Gate,  on  which  the  martyrs  sufiered,  was  long 
held  in  remembrance  near  a  large  board,  on  which  was 
painted  the  regulations  of  the  market :  the  ground  about 
the  stake  was  paved  with  stones  in  a  circular  form  for 
some  yards  round.  This  board  has  been  lately  removedji 
and  a  lamp  with  a  large  gas  light  fixed  up  in  its  room. 
At  the  north-east  angle  of  West  Smithfield,  near  the 
cod  of  Dttke-Street,  sUnds  the  parish  church  of  St. 
Bartkolometo  the  Great. — ^This  is  a  spacious  and  ancient 


114  WAIRS  THBbtiGH   LONDON. 

building  of  the  Norman  and  Golhie,  or  Saracenic  style 
with  a  strong  timber  roof:  the  walls  of  the  church  are 
of  stone  and  brick,  and  the  steeple  of  brick  with 
battlements.  It  is  impossible  better  to  delineate  these 
visible  remains  than  by  following  the  author  of  Londi* 
nium  Redivitfum.  "  This  side  of  Smithfield/'  he 
observes,  '*  contains  a  fragment  once  an  entrance  to 
this  church,  with  beautiful  ribs,  sculptured  into  roses 
and  zigzag  ornaments.  It  serves  as  a  passage  to  the 
iron  gates  of  the  church-yard,  through  which  the 
mutilated  half  of  the  priory  may  be  seen,  fronted  by  a 
flimsy  screen  of  brick  placed  against  the  massy  old 
arches  of  Norman  architecture.''  The  ground  has 
1)een  raised  several  feet  on  the  pavement  of  the  old 
church.  The  wall  on  the  south  ^e  is  tolerably  per- 
fect, and  serves  as  the  back  of  a  public  house,  now 
placed  where  the  north  cloister  stood.  Smoke  and  iH 
usage  have  given  it  the  appearance  of  the  mins  of  a 
dungeon.  The  tower  of  the  church,  which  has  a  smaN 
turret,  is  of  red  brick,  bearing  the  dale  of  1688  upon  it, 
and  is  embattled  with  two  buttresses  t  this  front  has  a 
lar|^  door  and  a  very  large  window. 

On  turning  to  the  right  we  pass  along  the  narrow 
part  of  the  close,  between  the  site  of  the  ancient' 
cloisters,  and  Duke-Street,  formerly  called  Buek^Lane. 
lliis  part  has  been  almost  entirely  demolished,  and  is 
only  discernible  by  the  partial  remain*  of  tbc  old  walls, 
l^e  beautiful  eastern  cloister  across  the  area  is  used  as 
farriers'  sheds,  stabKng,  &c.  The  arches>  g>roins>  and 
key  stones,  are  still  tolerably  perfect.  The  *<  Cloister 
stable"  is  ninety-five  feet  long  and  Meen  broad.  The 
passage  before-mentioned  leads  ie  that  part  of  theclose^ 
DOW  a  decent  square,  called  Great  Si.  BaHholomew^w 
GJfoM^  Entering  fii^m  Little  Britain,  we  directly  fac# 
the  Refectory ;  b«i%  every  vestige  of  ifts  aneieni  archi- 
tecture is  either  de^itrpyed  or  covered  with  briek-work 
casings  8  tlieroof  however  remains  nearly  ia  its  prislfaie 


.   TKKN'-V'Yfr'C 
FUPUCLIBRAR 


WAIKS  THROUGH  LONDOH.  Il6 

ftate.  In  the  north-east  <iorner  of  the  close  a  passage; 
tioir  called  Middleseit  Passage,  has  evidently  been  ciA 
through  some  cellars  of  the  Refectory ;  and  here  the 
solidity  of  the  old  walls  may  be  seen,  baring  massy 
arches  and  stout  groins.  A  passage  to  this  Refectory 
at  the  south  end  of  the  eastern  ctoister,  fiay-tbree  feet 
by  twenty-six^  is  Mill  visible  as  it  turns  to  the  north, 
where  part  of  the  old  ivalls  and  battered  windows  nrtrf 
also  be  seen*  The  dormitory  is  now  occupied  by  Mr. 
Barlow,  a  mason,  and  Mr.  Sherwood,  an  auctioneer.  ' 
Uak  BartkoUmew  Chse  contained  the  prior's  sta- 
ples ;  but  their  exact  site  is  not  known.  This  extends 
to  Cloth  Fair.  About  a  centary  pest  a  gateway  was 
standing,  leadmg  to  the  wood-yard,  kitchen,  aiid  othtt 
hiferior  offices:  a  mulberry-tree  grew  near  it;  and 
here  was  also  a  profl»enade ;  hut  the  immoralities  of 
this  spot  were  complained  of  in  very  strong  terms  by 
the  author  of  the  Ohsertator  of  August  21, 1703. 

THI  withfA  the  last  fidy  years  there  was  a'window 
which  opened  from  a  meeting-house  in  Middlesex* 
Court  into  the  church :  at  this  period  this  singular 
aperture  was  closed  up.  This  mreeting  is  supposed  to 
liave  belonged  to  MiddUsex-House,  and  might  hav^ 
been  a  chapel,  as  in  a  corner  of  it,  some  years  back, 
a  rery  antique  piece  of  sculpture  used  to  be  seen, 
lepresenting  the  figtire  of  a  priest  with  a  child  in  his 
arms;  and  several  niehes  appear  to  have  been  occupied 
by  the  same  kind  of  ornament.  More  of  the  remains 
of  this  large  church  are  still  visible  in  a  narrow  alley 
nmning  between  that  and  Cloth  Fair. 

Crossing  Lof^-Ltfne,  now  fast  improving  and  wklen* 
ing,  whieh,  fWmi  a  narrow  filthy  street,  promises  shortly 
t*>  become  a  very  good  thoroughfare,  we  enter  Charter* 
House*- Street,  an  avenue  that  leads  to  the  square  of 
diat  name:  the  north  side  is  occupied  by  the  hospital 
tod  other  buildings  of  The  Cktrireuse,  corruptly  called 
The  t^Her-Hcuu^^Tht  origkt  or  this  religious  foun- 


116  WALKS   THftOUGIl    LONOONk 

tSatioQ  U  ascribed  to  the  dreadful  pestilence^  which.  In 
1308,  desolated  England  and  great  part  of  Europe: 
thb  spot  having  been  consecrated  by  the  Bishop  of 
London  for  a  place  of  burial,  it  appears  that  during 
this  plague  upwards  of  fifty  thousand  persons  were 
interred  upon  it,  who  had  been  the  victims  of  the  pes- 
tilence.   Sir  Walter  Manny,  for  building  this  monas- 
tery, had  purchased  thirteen  acres  and  one  rood  of 
ground;  this,  with  three  acres  more,  called  Pardon 
Church'Yfird,  Sir  Walter  gave  to  the  prior  and  monks. 
The  monastery,  in  the  time  of  Henry  the  Eighth, 
having  been  bestowed  on  Sir  Edward  North,  it  was  sold 
by  his  son  to  Thomas,  Duke  of  Norfolk,  from  whom  it 
descended  to  Thomas,  Earl  of  Suffolk,  and  was  after- 
wards called  Howard-House,  by  which  name  it  was 
pnrchased  of  the  Earl  of  Suffolk,  by  Thomas  Sutton, 
Esq.  the  founder  of  this  hospital :  it  consisted  of  four 
or  five  courts,  a  wilderness,  gardens,  orchards,  walks, 
&c.    The  benevolent  founder  did  not  live  to  see  the 
hospital  finally  settled;  but,  in  1614,  three  years  after 
Mr.  Sutton's  death,  in  the  reign  of  James  the  First,  it 
was  opened  by  his  executors  for  the  entry  of  the  gentle- 
men, scholars,  and  others.   Mr.  Sutton's  will  was  dated 
the  9d  day  of  November,  1611.     The  gate  of  the 
first  court  of  these  ancient  remains,    opening  into 
Charter-House  Square,  leads  to  a  long  gallery  with 
windows  of  the  fashion  of  Queen  Elizabeth's  time; 
an  arched  way,  over  which  are  the  armorial  bearings  of 
Mr.  Sutton,  leads  to  another  court,  formed  on  the  east 
side  by  the  hall :  a  small  portico  before  the  door  has 
the  arms  of  James  the  First :  to  the  right  is  a  buttress 
and  two  large  windows  with  lancet-shaped  mullions ; 
over  them  two  small  arched  windows,  and  above  the 
door,  one,  w4th  nine  divisions.    At  the  south  end  is  a 
very  large    projecting  window    divided  into  fifteen 
parts,  and  over  it  a  smaller.    The  roof  is  slated  of  « 
•tone  colour,  supporting  a  small  cupola.    The  interior 


^"i,  ■'5 


'mK 


f''--'SuBai 


7 


#.' 


s<, 


^ifo>  - 


WALKS  THROOGH   lONDOtf.  117 

h  a  large  room,  and  the  galleries  are  elaborately 
enrkrbed,  and  the  whole  painted  of  a  stone  colour  r 
some  stained  glass  remains  in  the  windows,  and  there- 
is  a  pertrait  of  the  founder  at  the  upper  end.  The 
old  Court  Room  is  a  venerable  apartment,  fitted  up  by 
tlie  Duke  of  Norfolk,  during  his  residence  here,  in  the 
reign  of  James  the  First.  This,  with  the  Chapelj  the 
Govemor'n  room,  &c.  are  well  worth  seeing,  on  account 
of  the  paintings  and  other  embelisbments,  and  espe- 
cially Mr.  Sutton's  monument,  which  cost  bilween  three 
and  lour  hundred  pounds,  a  large  sum  in  those  days. 

Pardon  Church  stood  between  Wilderness-Row  and- 
Suttou-Street :  the  site  is  now  occupied  by  a  chapel 
belonging  to  a  Wekh  congregation. 

Charter-Hmue  Square  was  anciently   the  church- 
yard  of  the  monastery :  the  north-east  corner  contains 
Rutland  Court,  having  been  the  residence  of  the  Rut- 
knd  family ;  but  afterwards  used  as  a  theatre  by  Sir 
William  I>*Avenant,  during  the  civil  wars.    Upon  the 
whole,  little  if  any  thing  remains  by  which  we  can 
trace  the  original  conventual  structure :  perhaps  pieces 
of  the  old  walls  may  have  been  incorporated  into  the 
present  buildings;   and  Mr.  Malcolm  suspects  that 
some  parts  near  the  kitchen  are  original :  the  basement 
of  the  west  end  of  the  school  is  evidently  so.     Many  of 
the  windows  have  been  modernized,  and  areof  Henry's^ 
Edward's,  and  Elizabeth's  time.    Part  of  an  ancient 
tower  remains  as  the  basement  of  the  chapel  turret  r 
on   the    outside  it  has  undergone  some  convenient 
alterations ;  but  on  the  north-west  is  still  supported  by 
a  strong  original  buttress :  within,  it  is  arched  in  the 
Gothic  style,  about  fifteen  feet  from  the  pavement; 
the  intersections  are  carved  to  represent  an  angel  and 
some  unknown  instruments  as  appendages  to  the  hair 
•kirts  worn  for  penance.    One  of  the  oldest  parts  of 
the  building  is  called  The  Euidence^Hause,   and  is 
catered  by  a  well  staircase  from  a  door  on  the  north 


118  WAI^M  THBOU<pH   LONDOff. 

tide  of  the  house  ivitbout :  here  the  archives  ^f  the 
hospital  are  kept;  the  ceiling  is  beautifully  ribbed; 
and  the  centre  stone  represents  a  large  rose,  enclosieg 
the  initials  J.  H.  S.  Jesu*  Uaminum  &?/cMi/er,  Aeeess 
to  this  depository  cannot  be  had  in  the  absence  of  the 
Master,  the  Registrar,  or  Receiver,  nor  can  any  om 
of  these  enter  it  without  the  others.  The  entrance  to 
several  cells  on  the  south  side  of  the  present  play-* 
groupd  are  also  the  remains  of  the  conventual  building. 

The  kitchen  conuins  two  enormous  cbiiBney*placcs» 
and  the  doors  and  windows  have  all  poiniked  arches* 
llf'acing  the  chapel  19  a  passage  to  the  cloister  of  brick, 
with  projecting  unglazed  mullioned  windows  and  flal 
tops :  a  few  small  p<>inted  doors  are  on  the  back  wall« 
hut  tbay  are  now  closed.  From  a  terrace  on  this 
<:loister  the  patched  ancient  walls  and  buttreisea  of  the 
Couft  R^m  may  he  seen. 

Cbaiter«House  Square  has  been  the  residence  of 
several  eminent  persons^  being  considered  rather  as  a 
retired  pUce^  on  account  of  the  trees«  ^q.  At  presenl 
it  contains  ne  London  If^urm^ry  for  the  fye^  at  No. 
iO,  on  the  south  side,  founded  in  1809, 

Chari^^Jj4ut99  Iai^  loads  to  3raithfietd  Bars,  tbe 
northern  boundary  of  the  city  liberty,  whence  return'* 
ing  to  the  southward^  we  pass  Coc^Leae,  the  place 
where  a  female  Ventriloquist  was  ipim^  taken  for  ^ 
ghost  by  a  number  of  oredulpus  persons,  in  the  yeaf 
1769,  some  of  them  of  x^  small  respectability  in  Ufe» 
and  who  became  the  aufa^sota  of  Churchhill's  satkiQel 
P^,  in  his  poem  called  The  Ghost, 

A  little  further  on,  in  Giltspur«Steeet«  we  meet  with 
Lif4s9^»  making  p^rt  of  a  handaoma  stone  edifiee, 
fowrmerly  a  prison  for  debloi^  who  ai^  fwe  oC  tbe  city, 
<5te*FgywBn*ppaQtoMwandaltnfniWN  This  i»  now  appr^ 
ficia^d  tn  the  same  purpose  m  Qiktfur^Stntf^  which 
(ironts  the  atnetgt  W  ^  a  mas^  and  noi  inekgant 
^r«ctu(^  for  tha  purpiase  intended*    Ai  the  cornar  of 


WiMJD  TMiOUCB  LOMDOlf.    *  life 

ihe  Old  Bailey  is  Newgau,  whiob,  by  a  rcteot  ftcguh* 
UoDy  in  conjunction  with  the  aforenamed  prisons,  is  no 
kmger  a  place  for  dditon  as  well  as  felons,  and  is 
probably  better  for  tbe  few  thai  may  be  committed  to 
il«  eompared  with  the  alartniD^  naoabere  that  used  to  be 
ifliinured  there  before  the  large  prison  in  Whitccross* 
Straet  was  cooiipieted  for  the  reception  of  debtors  only. 
li|earlyoppQsiteOiltspiir-StreetConipter,at  the  comer 
of  Cock^Lane,  is  a  public  hoase,  known  by  the  sign  of 
the  Fatnme  qf  War^  (i.  e.  a  wooden  leg  or  a  golden 
chain).  This  spot  was  once  called  Pye  Comer,  from  the 
aiga  of  that  bird.  The  proirerbof  the  Fire  commencing 
at  Pndding^Lane,  and  ending  at  Pye  Comer,  might  oc» 
casion  the  inacriptien,  with  the  figure  of  tbe  boy,  still  to 
be  seen  at  tbe  door  of  this  public  hoase,  usually  called 
T%e  GbUiam,  and  he  if  accordingly  represented  is  anor« 
moiasly  At  and  bleated^  but  quite  naked. 

A  bmed  yard  on  the  south  divides  Newgale  from 
ibe  S€$9mu-Houm,  a  irery  handsome  stone  and  brick 
boilding,  where  the  Sessions  are  held  eight  times  ih  the 
year,  for  the  trial  of  oriminal  ofleijders  in  Londao  and 
Middleaei*  A  part  of  Sydaey-House  is  still  the  dMH 
lemaikahle  on  the  west  side  of  the  staeel  of  tht  Old 
Sailey,  was  lately  a  broker's  sh<^,  and  is  at  present 
mider  a  state  of  repair.  This  was  tbe  dwdhngofthe 
■oterioos  Jonathan  Wild. 

An  degant  structure,  intended  as  a  promenade  fo^ 
witnesses  daring  the  trials,  was  erected  here  some  years 
sioec^  on  the  site  of  Snrgeons'  Hail^  being  a  celonade 
of  two  rows  of  Doric  fluted  pillars,  supporting  a  ceiling 
with  Ihiee  ison  gates  and  seaoe  Windows :  bates  it  wa$ 
decnvd  loo  cold  in  winter,  er  too  much  coninod  in 
sammer,  the  witanses  in  geaend  prefer  waiting  in  the 
OM  Bailey  Yard,  or  in  the  adiaceat  public  bouses.  Over 
this  place  are  the  ofllcea  of  the  Cleric  of  the  Pesfce,  tei 
TmAog  oat  of  the  Old  Bailey  eastarasd  we  arrive 
at  iMdgatc-BSil,  once  the  site  of  tbe  city  cnCrance 


120        '  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDOR. 

of  that  name,  which  was  taken  down  aboai  the  year 
1760. 

Cio6e  to  where  this  gate  stood  is  situated  the  parish 
church  of  St,  Martin,  Ludgatc,  upon  the  site  of  another 
built  about  the  year  1437,  and  rebuilt  in  1684.  In  1806^ 
^iig^iog  a  foundation  at  the  back  of  the  London  Cofl^ 
House,  adjoining  this  church,  by  the  remains  of  London 
Wall,  a  stone  of  the  form  of  a  sexagon  was  discovered, 
with  a  Latin  inscription,  to  the  memory  of  Claudia,  the 
wife  of  one  of  the  Roman  generals  in  this  country. 

Ludgate*Hill  is  a  broad  street  of  statdy  bouses.  The 
Bell  Savage  Inn,  according  to  Stow,  received  its  name 
from  one  Arabella  Savage.  The  painter  of  the  sign 
gave  it  a  diverting  origin,  deriving  it  from  a  Bell  and  a 
Wild  Man.  The  Spectator  gives  the  derivation  from  La 
Belk  Sauvage,  a  beautiful  woman  described  in  an  old 
French  romance,  as  being  found  in  a  state  of  nature. 
Stow  records  that  Arabella  Savage  gave  this  inn  to  the 
cutlers'  company,  whose  arms  are  still  sculptured  upon 
the  houses. 

Black  Friars  Bridge  was  built  by  Robert  Mylne,  Esq* 
and  consists  of  nine  arches,  which  being  eliptical,  the 
apertures  for  navigation  are  large,  whilst  the  bridge 
itself  is  low  :  the  length  from  wharf  to  wharf  is  nine 
hundred  and  ninety-five  English  feet,  and  the  width  of 
the  central  arch  one  hundred.  The  upper  surface  of  the 
bridge  is  a  portion  of  a  very  large  circle,  so  that  the 
whole  forms  one  arch,  and  appears  a  gently  swelling 
ground  all  the  way.  Over  each  pier  is  a  recess  or 
balcony  supported  below,  by  two  Ionic  pillars  and  two 
pilasters,  which  stand  upon  a  semicircular  prqieetion 
of  the  pier  above  high-water  mark;  these  pillars  give 
an  agreeable  lightness  to  the  appearance  of  the  bridge 
on  either  side.  At  each  extremity  the  bridge  spreads 
open,  the  footways  rounding  oflP  to  the  right  and  left, 
a  quadrant  of  a  circle,  forming  an  access  both  agree- 
able and  cohveoleht    There  are  two  flights  of  stone 


WALKS  THROUGH  LOUDON.  181 

steps  at  each  end,  defended  by  iron  raib ;  and  upon 
this  bridge  is  the  best,  if  not  the  only  trae  point  of 
▼iew  for  the  magniikent  cathedral  of  St.  Paul,  with  the 
▼arious  churcheg  in  the  amphitheatre  extending^  from 
Westminster  to  the  Tower.  This  bridge  has  been  recently 
lighted  with  gas,  and  makes  a  handsome  appearance. 

From  this  bridge  also  a  prospect  far  beyond  the 
reach  of  art,  and  highly  partaking  of  the  sublime,  was 
undoubtedly  viewed  by  numbers  in  the  winter  of  1814; 
and  this  was  the  efiects  of  the  extraordinary  frost  at 
that  period.     AAer  some  continuance  of  that  intense 
cold  weather,  the  Thames  began  to  assume  a  singular  ap- 
pearance ;    vast  quantities  of  snow  were  seen  every 
where  on  the  surface ;  carried  up  and  down  by  the  tide 
and  the  stream,  or  being  collected  where  the  banks  or 
the  bridges  supported  them,  a  sort  of  glaciers  were 
formed,  united  one  moment,  and  crashing,  cracking, 
and  dashing  away  the  next.  At  times  too  when  the  flood 
was  elevated  by  the  spring  tide,  the  current  running 
strongly,  forced  the  small  ice  islands  through  the  arches 
with  a  rapidity  scarcely  to  be  conceived,  whilst  the 
conglomeration  upon  the  whole,  presented  more  the 
appearance  of  the  rudeness  of  the  desert,  than  a  smooth 
broad  surface  to  which  the  eye  of  the  observer  had  been 
habituated : 

The  like  before  to  maoj  ne'er  wu  known. 
The  floid  water*  lecin'd  congealed  to  stone  ! 

Thus  having  become  a  solid  mass,  paths  in  various 
directions  were  strewed  with  ashes,  and  booths  of  all 
kinds  erected  for  constituting  what  might  be  called 
Frasi  Pair,  distinguished  by  appropriate  signs,  as  the 
Waterman's  Arms,  the  Eel  Pot,  &c.  Among  the  most 
rational  of  the  oddities  collected  on  this  occasion,  were 
a  number  of  printers,  who  with  their  presses  pulled  off 
various  impressioDS  of  names,  verses,  &c.  which  they 
sold  for  trifles  as  memorials  of  the  frost.  The  obeerva* 


\m  WAi.H«  TBaOUGH    LOMDON* 

IMMM  oiade  in  the  public  pnoto  ct  this  tioie  upon  the 
iateDWty  and  duration  of  the  cM  brought  to  light  m 
circumstantial  outline  of  the  froat  in  December  167S, 
in  a  letter  accidentally  foond  by  a  gentleman  among 
the  papers  of  an  ancestor,  which  though  omitted  by 
our  chroniclersy  aeema  to  realize  all  and  more  than  Gay 
observed  of  the  great  froat  in  1739-40,  though  his  de- 
scription may  in  some  measure  apply  to  each  of  these 
three  memorable  erents. 

Wben  boary  Thames  with  frosted  osiers  crowa'd. 
Was  three  long  mooos  in  icy  fetters  bound; 
The  wateman  forlorn  along  the  shore, 
FMistre  reclines  upon  his  useless  oar ; 
See  banicsa'd  steeds  desert  tb«  atony  town, 
Aad  wander  roads  unstable,  not  their  own  | 
Wheels  o'er  the  hardcn'd  watera  smoothly  glide. 
And  raise  with  whitcn*d  tracks  the  slippery  tide* 
Here  the  (at  cook  piles  high  the  blazing  6re, 
And  scarce  the  spH  can  turn  the  steer  entire. 
Booths  sodden  bide  the  Thsttci,  long  streets  appear, 
And  aoBMvaaf  ganas  prodaiai  tiM  cf«wded  ftir. 

Another  prospect,  much  more  congenial  to  our  feel- 
ings than  the  one  just  glanced  at,  will  shortly  open 
from  this  beautiful  elevation  in  a  rival  competition  for 
ornament  and  utility;  viz.  Southwark  Bridge^  which 
as  the  Thames  has  little  or  no  curve  between  this  and 
Black  Friars,  will  be  seen  from  hence  to  great  advant^. 
Added  to  this,  a  very  beneficial  alteration  of  London 
Britlge,  combining  elegance  and  conveniencci  baa  only 
been  suspended  till  Sootbwark  Bridge  shall  be  Gom* 
l^eted,  the  late  report  of  the  Bridge  House  Comaillee 
expreses,  ^  That  although  the  enlaigcnient  and  im^ 
provement  of  the  water-way  under  LcMidon  Bridge,  in 
the  manner  reoomnendedl  by  Mr«  Daaee  and  othov,  in 
their  report,  might  remedy  and  prevenW  in  a  greai 
degree,  the  mcoovemenoca  and  leases  occaaiMed  by 
the  poeseat  contracted  water  way ;  yet  thai  Chc  lai^e 


WAlKfi  THKOVGB   LONDON.  Ht 

rams  of  Bioney  to  be  expcoded  sod  adftneni  before 
the  voriu  necesMry  for  thai  purpote  can  be  coon* 
oiCDced*  added  to  the  very  great  expense  attending  the 
cnlargcnient  of  four  arches,  as  recommended  by  tbem« 
would  to  far  exceed  the  advantages  to  be  derived  there- 
fronij  that  the  Select  Committee,  without  expressing 
uny  opinion  on  the  question  suggested  in  the  said  Re* 
port,  •*  Whether  it  will  be  more  eligible  to  carry  the 
proposed  works  into  execution,  or  to  construct  a  oev 
bridge/'  were  of  opinion,  "  That  it  was  not  exfediciit 
that  the  enlargement  and  in^Mrovement  of  the  water- 
way ahoaW  be  bow  pnaoeedcd  with ;  and  the  furthec 
oooaideratioQ  thereof  should  at  all  events  be  postponed 
until  the  bridge  now  erecting  from  Queen  Street  to 
Southwark,  to  be  called  the  Southwark  Bridge,  shall 
be  completed/' 

It  appears  that  the  managers  of  the  water-works  aug* 
gesud  that  a  sum  not  less  than  135,000/.  wouM  be 
required  to  purchase  ther  leases,  interest  and  stock; 
and  that  the  further  sum  of  175,0001.  must  be  expended 
beftue  the  proposed  alteration  could  be  commenced. 
As  it  has  been  proved  before  Parliament,  that  between 
thirty  and  forty  human  lives  are  aonoally  knit  in  the 
vortex  under  the  bridge,  it  cannot  be  supposed  the 
elteration  will  be  long  ddayed,  even  though  it  may  be 
9eccaMry  to  impose  a  toll  on  the  public. 

In  consequence  of  the  intended  enlargement  of  four 
afckfi>  &c.  an  equnl  number  d*  the  projections  called 
starlings,  will  be  completely  taken  away. 

Rstuming  to  Ckmkam  PUict,  so  called  from  the  in- 
tention to  name  Blick  Friars  Bridge  after  the  great 
Mr.  Pitt,  we  arrive  at  Fle^t  Morkei^  extending  from  the 
east  end  of  Fleet«8treet  to  the  west  end  or  bottom  of 
Soow*Hili.  Thisconsistsoftworovsof  butchers' shops; 
and  in  the  oenire  ia  a  ncnt  turret  with  a  clock.  At  the 
narthend  ie  ft  Ivv*  aiee>  with  two  row»  of  slight  erec- 
tions for  fish,  garden-stnfl^  Ac. 


124  WALKS  THROUOH  LONDON. 

On  the  east  tide  of  this  market  is  T%e  Fitet  Priitm,  so 
called  from  its  situation  near  the  river  Fleet.  The  body» 
inclosed  with  houses  and  very  high  walls,  is  a  handsome 
lofty  brick  buildings  of  a  considerable  length,  with  gal- 
leries in  every  story,  which  reach  from  one  end  of  the 
house  to  the  other.  On  each  side  of  these  galleries  are 
rooms  for  the  prisoners.  All  manner  of  provisions  are 
brought  into  this  prison  every  day,  and  cried  as  in  the 
public  streets.  Here  also  is  a  coffee-house,  a  tap,  and 
an  ordinary,  with  a  large  open  area  for  exercise.  This 
prison  is  properly  that  belonging  to  the  Courts  of  Chan- 
cery and  Common  Pleas;  and  the  keeper  is  called  the 
Warden  of  the  Fleet,  a  place,  it  has  been  said,  of  con- 
siderable confidence  and  emolument,  arising  from  the 
fees,  the  rent  of  the  chambers,  &c. 

Probably  the  most  authentic  statement  respecting  the 
economy  of  this  prison  is  to  be  found  in  the  evidence  of 
Nicolas  Nixon,  Esq.  recently  delivered  before  a  Com- 
mittee of  the  House  of  Commons,  he  being  the  Deputy 
and  sole  Acting  Warden.  The  other  officers  within  the 
prison,  besides  Mr.  Woodroffe  his  clerk,  are,  three 
turnkeys,  one  watchman,  and  one  scavenger ;  they  are 
all  paid  by  Mr  Nixon.  The  turnkeys  are  all  paid  one 
guinea  per  week  each,  and  they  each  have  a  room 
within  the  prison  rent  free :  part  of  these  are  partitioned 
off  by  the  turnkeys,  and  with  a  bed,  are  occasionally  let 
to  the  prisoners.  They  have  in  point  of  fact  no  fees. 
The  watchman  also  acts  as  crier  to  the  prison,  in  calling 
for  and  bringing  down  prisoners  to  inquirers.  He  is 
paid  ten  and  sixpence  a  week  for  his  duty  as  watchman. 
He  farther  acts  as  a  scavenger  in  keeping  the  staircases 
and  prisons  clean ;  for  this  he  is  allowed  some  additional 
emolument,  and  also  for  lighting  the  lamps  in  the  priaon 
galleries.  This  person  is  a  prisoner,  and  has  a  room  in 
the  prison.  He  is  found  perfectly  competent  to  the 
performance  of  these  duties.  His  doty  as  watchman, 
within  the  prison,  is  not  severe. 


WALKS  TBROUGH   LONDON.  I9fi 

.  Notbiog  can  be  publicly  sold  witbin  ibe  prison  without 
Ibe  autbority  of  the  Warden  or  his  Deputy.  The  beer  and 
ale  coming  into  the  prison  and  sold  al  the  tap^  is  on  the 
credit  of  the  Deputy.  The  licence  for  selling  wine  has 
been  many  years  discontinued.  The  sale  of  all  spirituous 
liquors  within  the  prison  is  prohibited  by  Act  pf  Parlia* 
ment.  There  is  a  penalty  on  their  admission.  The  Cook 
and  tbe  Racket-master  being  Officers  of  the  prisoners* 
are  elected  by  them ;  they  are  elected  twice  a  year. 
Tbe  priority  of  chummage  (or  admission  to  rooms  in  the 
prison),  is  by  rotation»or  seniority  among  such  prisoners 
as  bave  paid  their  entrance  fees.  A  few  among  the  very 
oldest  prisoners  are  exempted  frum  chummage,  i.e. 
from  having  any  others  put  into  their  rooms.  When  a 
prisoner  cannot  pay  for  his  clearance  out  of  prison,  the 
fees  are  always  paid  by  some  of  the  charitable  societies. 
Prisoners  who  are  supersedable  have  their  rooms  taken 
from  them.  The  distinction  between  the  Matter's  side 
and  the  Comrnan  side  is,  that  for  the  former,  the  entrance 
fee  is  paid ;  for  the  latter  no  fee  at  all.  Prisoners  who 
swear  they  are  not  worth  five  pounds  in  the  world, 
are  allowed  the  benefit  of  the  begging  grate:  there 
are  but  few  of  these.  The  entitled  prisoners  take  in 
rotation,  each  man  twenty-four  hours.  Besides  this, 
there  are  sometimes  charitable  donations,  which  are  dis- 
tributed among  the  very  poorest  prisoners.  The  500/.  per 
ann.  granted  by  the  Act,  is  distributed  among  the  poor 
prisoners  indiscriminately.  Some  of  the  poor  prisoners 
wait  upon  the  wealthy  ones,  and  gain  some  relief  that 
way.  The  room  rents  on  the  Master's  side  are  fifteen 
pence  each  $  they  are  in  general  paid  for  weekly,  but 
a  prisoner  cannot  be  turned  out  of  a  room  for  non- 
payment, unless  a  quarter's  rent  be  accumulated.  The 
Backet-masters,  who  are  paid  so  much  per  game,  make 
about  a  guinea  a  week  each,  by  their  situations.  The 
pastime  baa  been  approved  by  the  Court,  as  healthful. 
At  eleven^  oil,  candles,  and  fires,  are  ordered  to  be 


196  WALKS  THROCGH  LOKDON. 

put  out  in  the  coffee-house  and  tap ;  but  rioia  and  irre- 
gularities are  frequently  complained  of.  Every  thing 
practicable  is  done  to  repress  those.  Since  the  passing 
of  what  is  called  the  "  Hiree  Months  Act/'  the  pri- 
soners are  less  moral  than  they  were  before,  for  prisoners 
in  genersi  contrive  to  procure  money  to  maintain  them 
during  the  three  months,  and  they  are  less  careful  of 
their  behaviour. — Strangers  are  obliged  to  quit  the 
prison  some  time  between  ten  and  half-past  ten  o'clock. 
Loose  women  frequently  remain  with  men  in  the  prison 
all  night.  The  separation  between  male  and  female 
prisoners  is  only  as  to  rooms,  and  not  as  to  position. 
Two  dubs  are  established  in  the  prison ;  one  on  Monday 
nights,  in  the  tap-room ;  the  other  on  Thursday  nights, 
in  the  coflbe-room. — Strangers  are  admissible  to  both. 
The  prison  is  neariy  secured  against  fire,  all  the  rooms 
but  those  on  the  top  gallery  being  arched  with  brick. 
The  Chapel  is  very  badly  attended ;  there  are  no  means 
of  enforcing  the  rule  for  the  attendance  of  the  prisoners. 
The  prison  gates  are  locked  during  Divine  Service ;  at 
other  times,  upon  an  average,  the  key  turns  about  once 
in  a  minute.  The  number  of  prisoners  withm  the  waRsi 
and  in  the  rules  for  the  last  three  years,  averaged  about 
three  hundred.  Theft  is  common  among  the  prisoners: 
the  stolen  artides  are  always  cried ;  but  there  was  once 
a  crier  who  was  detected  in  stealing  things  for  the  pur- 
pose of  crying  them  for  the  rewai^.  There  is  no  offidal 
medical  attendance  allowed :  he  (Mr.  N.)  has  often 
assisted  poor  prisoners  in  that  way  at  his  own  expence. 
Very  fetv  deaths  take  place  within  the  prison.  The 
Court  of  Conraion  Pleas  sends  an  officer  of  their  own 
four  times  a  year  to  visit  the  prison,  immediately  before 
each  term.  The  prison  is  white-washed  as  often  as  it 
appears  necessary.  The  prison  is  repaired  generally 
every  three  years.  Tlie  circumference  of  the  Rules  it 
about  three-fomtfis  of  a  mile.  Prisonets  are  entitled^ 
on  giving  sufficient  secnrityto  the  Warden;  this  is 


WALKS  THE0U6H  Loimoir.  197 

done  by  mn  instniment  upon  a  twenty  sbilling  stamp ; 
in  addition,  is  the  inquiry  fee,  and  the  per  centage 
upon  the  amount  of  the  debt.  There  are  Day  Rmlet  in 
Term  time,  every  day  the  Court  sits.  The  ordinary 
expence  of  a  day's  Rale  to  a  prisoner,  is  two  pounds 
seven  shillings  for  the  whole,  if  the  charge  he  under 
500/. ;  in  addition  to  this,  four  shillings  and  sixpence 
is  paid  for  each  day.  No  fresh  security  is  required  for 
a  Day  Rule  from  one  already  in  the  Rules.  Sereral  of 
the  prisoners  live  most  luxuriously  within  the  walls,  as 
well  as  in  the  Rules,  and  this  they  all  seem  inclined  to 
do,  as  far  as  their  means  will  admit. 

The  gmend  on  which  this  prison,  and  the  buildmg^ 
op  to  Skinner-Street,  now  stand,  formed  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  Town  Ditch,  denominated  ¥ieet  Ditch, 
which  was  navigable  lor  small  vessels  neariy  as  high  as 
Holboni  Bridge,  before  the  Fire  of  London.  In  178S 
it  was  completely  arched  over  between  that  place  and 
the  soutb  end  of  Fleet  Market.  Still,  on  the  south  side 
of  Fleet-Street,  a  ^  genuine  and  muddy  ditch''  was 
icarcely  concealed  from  the  public  eye  by  a  range  of 
stone  buildings,  consisting  of  the  watch-house,  &c.  fbr 
Sti  Bride's  parish,  buik  upon  an  arch  over  the  ditch. 
The  Obelisk,  at  the  north  end  of  New  Bridge-Street, 
erected  in  the  mayoralty  of  John  Wilkes,  Esq.  in  17T5, 
marks  the  extent  of  this  ditch  till  that  period,  when  it 
was  completely  filled  up,  and  when  the  fine  range  of 
bnildtngs  between  that  and  the  water  side  rose  in  itr 
stead. 

Returning  again  to  the  northward  we  come  to  Skow- 
Hill,  anciently  Snor-Hill,  a  Saxon  term  of  the  same 
signification.  A(]|)acent  to  this,  Skinuo' -Street  remains  as 
a  testimony  of  the  uiiUty  of  Mr.  Alderman  Skinner's  pro* 
posed  improvements  upo« Alderman  Picketfa  plans,  in 
removing  a  number  of  old  buildings,  and  levelling  the  as- 
cent firom  Holtxym  Bridge  to  Newgate-Street.  The  mag^ 
niteent  houses  taised  on  the  site  of  the  old  ones,  since 


1 


128  WALKS  THSOUGH  LONDON. 

1801,  maoy  of  which  were  long  untenanted,  are  all  occu- 
pied at  the  present  period.  The  large  house,  seven  stones 
high,  burnt  down  in  1814,  called  Commercial-Hall,  was 
valued  at  25,000/.  The  original  name  intended  for  thi»- 
building  was.  The  Imperial  and  Commercial  Hotel; 
but  not  letting  for  this  purpose,  its  numerous  apart- 
ments were  eventually  occupied  by  a  number  of  persons 
of  different  professions.  Two  houses,  since  built  upon 
itssite»  are  now  called  Commercial- Hall  Place. 

Seacoal'Lane,  on  the  south  side  of  Skinner-Street, 
contains  nothing  remarkable  but  a  steep  flight  of  steps, 
commonly  called  Break-neck  Steps,  ascending  up  to 
Green  Arbour  Court,  where  Goldsmith  resided  when 
he  composed  the  Vicar  of  Wakefield,  the  Traveller,  &c. 
Turning  from  Green  Arbour  Court  we  come  opposite 
St  Sepulchre's  Church,  very  ancient,  but  lately  re« 
paired,  and  the  porch  modernized.  The  interior  and 
the  monuments  are  worthy  attention. 

Passing  on  through  Newgate-Street  we  come  to 
Warwick-Lane,  so  called  from  the  house  of  the  Beau- 
champs,  Earls  of  Warwick.  In  the  front  of  a  house  at 
the  comer  of  this  lane,  occupied  by  a  tobacconist,  is 
placed  a  small  statue  of  the  famous  Guy,  Earl  of  War* 
wick,  and  this  is  said  to  resemble  another  miniature 
of  him  in  the  chapel  of  St.  Mary  Magdalen  in  Guy's 
Clifi^  near  Warwick.  This  lane  also  contains  The  Col- 
lege of  Physicians,  a  good  structure  of  brick  and  stone, 
with  an  entrance  through  an  octangular  porch,  crowned 
with  a  dome  and  a  cone,  terminated  by  a  golden  ball, 
thus  described  by  Dr.  Garth  in  his  Dispensary : 

"  Where  tUoda  a  done  m^ettic  to  the  sight. 
And  samptnont  arcbet  bear  its  oml  height ; 
A  golden  globe  placed  high  with  artfal  skill. 
Seem  to  the  distant  sight  a  gilded  pill.*' 

The  whole  front  is  decorated  with  pilasters  of  Ionic 
and  Corinthian  orders.    In  the  centre,  over  the  door- 


p5ILi^b©h1 


WaMS 


JL  Qf^. 


»■    1  :.rv    f  ^ 
\.     56'.;  .-•*»^J.    '   .     t*  •/•<:- ^;rr--.'    f",     // 

» L  \  •  isc*  f '.^**'•'  r i ♦><.(!  i  iir  Cit  v  '  n  *i \-  .  .-  J ,  ^y*   ,\  «  c. 

•  'f.ncAiv  ?t  tilackfriar-  Wrvi:^-  ?'    •  "i^;.  '^ 

.  <(\r,  sti\«l  o  1 1 1 K'  u  <  t  sid**.  of  New  h  ••  <  •-->:•  r  v ' 

•*   'i  h'.i.fffttzl.  Thn,  -s^r.i  ly  a«;  the  r«  'i:z.  u*  h  » 

'  .^  i  .j:I    t   i   ths:  •  ,U  of  Ihi*  aiioient  p*"*  v  f  * 

•  xiiJ-ii  ii.o.):\rcli'.,  nhich  ^ijul  \nxD  fur  ;<«:  i    '    .  ih* .  * 

s-i*''  in'ii»y  <i  the  cfwnccit  niati'-i'il^  o*  tn'<  ;.>.'<  »ij» 

••».:r-i-*-<  t»y  Hf r- ,  .♦ml  Hnny  I    ^'iv<*  h-*  uk^ij  •!•'  ;.  • 

■   •  „  .iv;   aml.])rtcinvl  .»f  thechur'.:^  Nnr„unJ<ii»  ::. 
■■       \\iMT  d^eirnj^  »v-.  •u*f'c:vii*Jy  -•♦icioi'^  for  ru. 


'  ^    M- 


A 


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V, 


WALKS  TBIOVGH   I^NDON«  129 

eaae»  it  the  statue  of  King  Cbarkss  the  Second  pkced  in 
ftiucbe»  end  directly  opposite  that  of  the  avaricious  Sir 
John  Cutler. 

From  Warwick-Lan^  a  narrow  passage  in  Pater- 
nofter«B«w  leads  to  Loiidon«>Houae  Yard,  so  called 
from  the  site  being  forttierlj  occupied  by  the  palace 
of  the  Bishops  of  London.  A  puUic^hoose  stands  here 
with  the  sign  of  the  Qaote  and  Gridirvn;  the  sign  was 
meant  as  a  satire  upon  the  Academy  of  Ancient  Music 
when  a  separation  followed  a  dispute  amongst  the 
Here  b  an  afcoue  to  St.  P&alTs  CathedraL 


WALK  IX. 


Vnm  Black  Friars  Bridge  $o  BridemeU,  3Wsr-&mt, 
SaJUdmry-^quare,  Darmi'Sirmi  acrom  Whkqftian^ 
Wharf  ia  the  Tempk,  Taaflc-Bar,  Fket-Streei,  and 
NmBridge-Sttett. 


HArma  described  the  city  eaaturafd,  we  i 
oar  kioerary  atBladdrlsrs  Bridip^  through  Ghathaofe- 
I^ace^aadon  the  wflrtttdeof  New  Bridge^Stneet  taBHdb. 
weUHagfktd.  Thia^aacarlyas  the  reign  of  King  Jehn^ 
was  buUt  on  the  aite^if  the  andeni  palace  of  several 
So^iBb  menon^,  wlHck  had  bae^  formed  out  of  the  re* 
maiwofaGBstkBcirAeTfaBmes.  lolOW^  William  L 
gave  many  of  the  dMoeeat  materials  of  this  palace  t*» 
waids  lebttiidiBg  St.  Pairi'a  Gadicdrri,  whkh  hod  been 
dkntM^edbyfire;  aiMLHemry  L  gave  as  many  of  the 
slSMs  fMaaiheesstle-yaid  wall  aa  served  to  eifekat 
the  gates  andprecinct  of  the  churc^.  Notwithstaiidhig 
tU^  the  dwclUng  waa  sutteieBay  spacieua  ftr  royal 
,  but  was  neglected  nil  Cardhad  Wohey  mait 


130  WALKS  THftOUGH   LONDOII« 

il  his  habitation  in  153S.  Soon  afterwards  Haury  VIIL 
rebuilt  it  in  a  style  of  greater  magnificence  than  before^ 
for  the  reception  of  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  who,  how* 
ever,  chose  to  lodge  in  the  monastery  of  the  Black 
Friars,  and  appointed  the  new  palace  for  the  accom- 
modation of  his  suite,  a  gallery  of  communicatioii 
being  thrown  over  the  river  Fleet,  and  a  passage  cut 
through  the  city  wall.  Henry  having  subsequently  left 
this  palace  to  neglect  and  decay,  in  1553,  Edward  VI. 
gave  it  to  the  mayor,  commonalty,  and  citizens  of 
London,  to  be  a  working-house  for  the  poor  and  idk 
persons  of  the  city. 

The  old  building  was  entirely  destroyed  by  the  fire 
in  1666,  together  with  all  the  dwelling*houses  in  the 
precinct,  from  whence  two-thirds  of  its  revenues  arose; 
the  hospital,  however,  was  rebuilt  in  1668»  in  the 
manner  it  appeared  till  lately.  It  consists  of  two  courts^ 
with  convenient  buildings  for  indigent  citizens,  and  for 
jeveral  tradesmen,  who  retain  apprentices  entitled  to 
the  freedom  of  the  city,  and  ten  pounds  each  after 
they  have  served  seven  years.  .  The  hospital  or  prison 
is  used  as  a  house  of  correction  for  all  strumpets,  night- 
walkers,  pickpockets,  vagrants,  &c«  who  are  obliged  to 
beat  hemp,  and  if  the  nature  of  their  ofience  requires 
it,  to  undergo  the  correction  of  whipping.  Here  are  no 
remains  of  the  ancient  palace :  the  last  remnant  of  that 
fltmctore  which  crossed  the  quadrangle  firom  north  to 
aooA;  ^  now  covered  by  aplain  cfaapeL 

The  frotil  of  the  Hospital  towards  Bridge^tred,  is 
aow  converted  to  «  row  4)f  ifftSstdy  hoyses,  the  centre  of 
which  is  a  stone  front,  and  an  entnanoe  to  the  hospitaL 
Jt  is  ornamented  with  pilasters  and  a  pediment..  Over 
the  door  km  bust  ofKing  fidward  Vi. ;  the  otherparta 
•nedeeoNited  urithtUearmsofilie corporation^  port- 
calli»es,'&e.  '  'f  ♦ 

'   Thej^preoticeshei^wiefefermn-lydlrtkigul^^ 
Uoe  trowseH^s  tnd  whitl5  baU;  this'taaMt  bat  been 


WALKS  THtouon  tONOaM.  131 

cliaiigKil»  and  thej  now  appear  in  Che  usual  dren  of 
other  young  persons,  excepting  that  their  buttons  are 
hnpreaacd  with  the  bust  of  Edward  VI. 

The  place  most  worthy  of  inspection  is  the  Hall,  a 
room  thirty-nine  paces  in  length  and  fifteen  in  brefidtb, 
with  a  handsome  chimney-piece  at  each  end,  and  ar* 
cades  at  the  sides.  The  windows  are  variously  embeU 
lished.  A  large  painting  by  Holbein,  nearly  square, 
IS  placed  over  the  western  fire-place,  representing 
Edward  VI.  bestowing  the  charter  on  Sir  George  fiarnes« 
the  Lord  Mayor.  Near  him  is  William,  Earl  of  Pem- 
hralEe,  and  Thomas  Goodrich,  Bishop  of  Ely,  Lord 
Chancellor.  In  a  comer  Holbein  has  placed  his  own 
head.  The  king  holds  the  charter  in  bis  left  hf  nd,  and 
gently  rests  the  base  of  the  sceptre  upon  it  He  is 
seated  on  his  throne,  crowned  and  clothed  in  robes  ^f 
crimson,  lined  with  ermine ;  the  doublet,  is  cloth  of 
gold.    Here  are  likewise  a  number  of  portraits. 

Passing  down  Tudor-Street,  a  narrow  passage  leads 
to  Donet-Street  The  whole  site  from  Fleet-Street  to 
the  river  was  formerly  occupied  by  the  mansion  of  the 
Bishops  of  Salisbury,  situated  on  the  spot  now  called 
Bell's  Buildings ;  the  rest  of  the  ground  being  gardens 
snd  a  WUdermeu  ;  the  recollection  of  which  is  preserved 
in  the  name  of  one  of  the  adjoining  streets ;  from  this  cir- 
cumstance it  took  the  name  oi SalUbury-€oun  atSquture. 
lliis  estate  afterwards  coming  into  the  hands  of  the 
Esris  of  Dorset,  the  street  called  by  that  name  was  built, 
as  wdl  as  the  theatre  in  Sorset-Gardens,  held  by  Sir 
WUham  D'Avenant  till  1668.  The  site  of  this  play- 
house  is  now  <K:cupied  by  the  house  and  grounds  d"  the 
New  River  Company* 

The  City  of  London  Ga»  Light  and  Coke  Cmpof^, 
have  their  worksia  Dofset  Garden,  adjoining  the  river 
Thames.  The  gas  was  first  Ughted  on  Christmas  mom* 
mg  1S14,  mA  b^gan  publidiy  to  be  introduced  into  the 
houses  and  shops  in  this  vicioity  in  January  1815.  Since 


133  W;^I4(9  TH|M)Uf«li  M)VpQM. 

this  period^  the  number  of  gasoanflters  here,  have  been 
inor«Med  to  feur. 

Salisbury-Square,  is  now  adorned  hj  a  very  n^ 
pillar  in  the  centre,  from  w^ich  arises  a  superb  gas^ 
lignp,  iiluminating  the  ciraumfepenQe  in  9  beautiful 
manner.  Here  is  the  Cft)urch  Missionary  Society, 
and  the  office  or  warehouse  of  the  Bible  and  Homily 
Society. 

It  has  lately  trani^ired,  that  when  the  Committee  of 
the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Sopiety,  pnrchaeed  the 
hooseof  Mr.  Enderby,  at  Noi  10,  Earl^reet,  Blackp 
friars  Bridge,  there  was  in  it  a  curious  four^post,  bed*' 
steady  with  oanred  and  painted  ornaments,  and  the  Mi- 
lowing  inscription  in  capitals  at  its  head : — 

*^  Henri,  by  the  grace  of  God,  Kynge  of  Engloade 
and  of  Fraunce,  Lorde  of  Irelonde,  Befendour  of  the 
Faythe,  and  Supreme  Heade  of  the  Churche  of  all 
Englonde.    An.  Dni.  M.CCCCO.XXXIX.'' 

Below  the  inscription,  on  each  side,  is  the  Kingf^s 
motto,  with  the  initials  of  Henry  and  his  Royal  Co»- 
sort  Anne  Boleyn. 

""^^""^^  "H.  A.- 

mondroit.^' 

A  passage  from  Dorset-Street,  across  Water-Lane, 
leads  by  the  Grand  Juneiim  Wharf  to  The  Temple  The 
name  originated  from  a  military  and  religious  order 
called  the  Knights  Temphrt,  who^  devoting  themsekes 
to  God's  service  in  the  year  1118,  bad  their  first  resi* 
denca  in  London,  nearly  opposite  to  Ora^t^fiMi,  in 
Holbom,  on  the  site  of  Southampton  Buildings^  Tbia 
structure  was  called  the  Old  Temple  ^  but  as  they  in« 
creased  in  opulence,  the  more  magnificent  building 
was  erected  by  them  opposite  New-Street,  now  film* 


f 


THR  KEW  yoRK  . 
UBLlCLIBRARtf 


,  A«Tail,Lll«OJ( 


WALK9  THR006H    LOMOOlfl  133 

cersT'-Lah^^  dnd  wte  diotijrussiisbecl  bj^  the  nwtoe  of  IlKS 


tf '   .»i  '   •■•  ••     -in  ;  :  •  ..   m  i    . 
..  .»  ■  -•f-»!»i  '.  r  ,*   ieth    ilP-J  n:  I  '  • 
■»■  i«    •  .-  •    .  M.tfi  ^\    i .  i.     .  -  ' 

•  »..    . .    .iiti*.'.  •».><»  .  -.  .    • 

•  -  • .    -.tfi  n.  jj    .  til   '^  •  r* 

■i.Jv     .     .■*  t-  -.%  Kuri^tf     *li-  <      •     ♦    .     . 
'     .      •>..  ^  ■•'i«' rnarbl".    T  ■•'  , 

•■•'•.    .u     1.    ».    K'    .♦".ii  \hc  •»  *  . 

!■•  *'.       tMl  .         '.  ,'ft.       i  ',)t  .     '■  .  *   .       . 

..4k«»  le  •  :  h  :   ts.    a.  .^  f*    ^       .,       :   •.  .    . 

fv«f  V   s  ;••••*.    V;^'    Utv-iCH  .  ..«*  : .,  • 

tTiiJ.        •     »"    .»i»'.'.U'        •  i      !:*»  {   /.I  •!  '         ..(.'. 
•    ..••'       •#rS      el. <•'<.«,     .  1^-.  t  ♦ 'i     ».  ,t»"-»t,     .    , 

•<rV«if  i»u  t  {.  .r?ti.  ;  i,.;  ..  _■      r  ,f  ...  .;.  ,,  .. 
■  i.r»     ..  •.♦'»»x,fi,   ifr..'  1^,  r  ..'II  '»t|i,.  \  ,.    .     } 

»  .«.i  1^    Vith   '^«   \    \'z'  '    Vie  i    I    ,!■ 


.'.*j>.<*>Ji.-y^ 


'-^."^  r.*^.1 


1^ 


■  ^r»-                 ' 

■ 

• 

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■  '•^;-'^*'. 

. 

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f] 

.-..' 

^M 

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Ki 

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i.^:•■0•     ■   • 

^:'«.. 

^^ 

n 

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:  ..:-;>:'■ 

•*"* 

\r  "^^.x-** 

■:t^ 

1TALR9  THROUGH   XONOOlfi  133 

cery*Laiie,  ind  wks  dbiinguisbed  b^  the  name  of  the 
New  Tempk.  Such  was  ito  rank  and  importance^  that 
not  only  Parliaments  and  Qeneial  Councils  were"  fre- 
quemly  beld  there>  but  it  was  a  gento^  depository  or 
tjptesury  for  tfae  property  of  penons  of  eoiinence,  md 
the  eiown  jewels,  and  k  was  ttMi  sbaroefolly  violated 
io  138S  by  Edwahl  I. 

The  chdrob  commonly  ealM  Tkt  Temple  Chtnih,  #as 
ibanded  by  the  KiiigtatsTettiplars  in  1 185,  and  dedicattfd 
to  tfae  Blessed  Virgin  j  from  the  ciroumstanoe  of  its-  be- 
ing a  second  tiaae  dedicated  in  1340,  it  is  mtppoM  to 
hare  been  newly  erected  by  the  Knights  HospitallerByaiid 
that  stmetttre  was  probably  the  s«ne  that  is  now  stead-* 
lug.  It  is  in  the  Normati  style  of  arehitectore.  Thi 
walls  af e  atonei  strengthened  with  buttresses  ;^  it  has  i 
treble  roof  covered  With  lead,  and  supported  by  neat 
piilaite  of  Sussex  marUe ;  Ih^  citorch  is  well  pared  with 
black  and  white  mCvMe.  The  patenleBt  of  the  chawcel 
IS  two  steps  higher  than  the  middle,  and  oAe  highM 
than  the  side  aisles^  of  Which  there  are  five  in  mnnber ; 
visd  tlkee  as  usual  rtinning  east  and  west ;  a  cross  mM 
Bear  the  entrance  iolo  the  chancel,  and  ai^other  parallel 
with  the  last,  betweefi  tile  west  end  of  the  ranges  of 
pewB  and  the  8<^reen.  The  oharch  is  wainscotled  attove 
eijgbl  feet  high:  tfae  alUr-pieco  is  finely  caried  with 
fettt  pilastsrs,  and  betwetotheria  are  two  eohmms; 
with  an  etttabldtnre  of  the  Coriiitfalan  Order,  enriofa- 
Bkeala  of  cherubim,  a  shield,  &o«  The  pulpit  faely 
carved  a^  verteefed,  is  placed  heAt  the  east  cAd  of  the 
middle  aisk )  the  sounditig'-board  is  pendant  from  the 
ivof  of  tfae  diUreh,  and  is  enriched  With  several  oaNed 
Mchts,  a  orowB^  festooti,  dherubhoj  vases,  &e. 

The  wamscot  soreea,  itthewest  end  of  ths  aideiwia 
ndama*  with  lea  pihHtevs  of  tfae  €<*inthlnf  eider> 
and  thrdi  portals  ind  pAtsoA^i  the  drgto^lery 
oitfr  tfae  middle  apevtard,  i#  sappoftdA  hy  two 


1S4  WALKS    TREOUGH    LONOOIT. 

fluted  columns  of  the  stme^  and  adorned  with  an  en* 
tablature  and  compass  pedimentu,  with  the  arms  of 
England  finely  carved.  The  intercolumns  are  large 
pannels  in  carved  frames ;  and  near  the  pediment,  on 
the  south  side,  is  an  enrichment  of  cherubim,  and  the 
figure  of  a  Holy  Lamb,  the  badge  of  the  Society  of  the 
Middle  Temple.  The  organ,  though  plain,  is  an  ex* 
cettent  instrument,  and  the  monuments  in  this  church 
are  extremely  interesting ;  though  it  is  most  remark* 
able  for  the  tombs  of  eleven  of  the  Knights  Templars, 
<m  the  pavement  of  the  spacious  round  tower  at  the 
west  end;  These  figures  consist  of  two  groups,  five  are 
cross-legged  and  the  remainder  straight.  Three  of  these 
knights  are  in  complete  mail  and  plain  helmets,  flat  at 
the  tops,  and  with  very  long  shields.  One  of  these  is 
Geofliroy  de  Magnaville,  Earl  of  Essex,  in  1 14a  One  of 
the  stone  coffins,  of  a  ridged  shape,  is  supposed  by  Cam- 
den to  be  the  tomb  of  William  Plantagenet,  fifth  son  of 
Henry  III.    • 

The  part  of  this  church  used  for  divine  service  is  the 
length  of  four  of  the  pillars,  which  are  clustered,  and 
extremely  light  and  airy.  The  ribs  from  them,  how* 
ever,  are  very  plain,  and  make  but  one  intersection  in 
each  vault.  The  intervals  being  .filled  on  the  north, 
south,  and  east  walls,  by  lancet-shaped  pyramidal 
windows,  with  isolated  columns,  give  an  incredible 
lightness  to  the  structure.  The  church,  which  is  en- 
tered through  the  porch  or  tower,  contains  in  its  area  six 
clustered  pillars  with  fillets  on  the  shafts,  and  Norman 
capitals,  plain  ribs,  and  vaults  from  those  to  the  exterior 
wall,  form  i,  circular  aisle,  with  single  pillars  answering 
to  the  clustered  pillars.  Each  arcade  originally  had 
long  arched  windows,  except  where  the  great  door 
is  situated,  and  where  the  arches  open  into  the  new 
part  or  body  of  the  church.  A  range  of  pointed 
arcades  extend  round  the  basement,  but  the  pillars 


%!;^^" 


/ 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  135 

between  them  are  Nonnai^  ,  ^  gg^^"^  ^^^  projects 


4       o. 


.•  •-    -v  ^rii.il    '    -p  r    '      I    •  '.-■        i:  '»  ••  .     ' 

'ire  doi>T  III  u  V  •     T.,  VI  .^      ...     o-  .  f      :^  f 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  135 

between  Chem  are  Norman.  A  grotesque  head  projects 
over  every  pillar,  and  the  mouldings  are  pierced  into 
dentils. 

The  upper  pari  of  the  church  has  six  slender  columns 
continu^  from  the  clustered  ones;  and  ribs  from  these 
support  a  flat  roof.  Over  the  great  arches  of  the  aisles 
are  interlaced  arcades,  with  a  door  or  aperture  ia  the 
centre  of  each  division,  and  higher  still  are  six  smaU 
arched  windows.  The  Temple  Church  is  open  on  Sun* 
days  at  eleven  in  the  forenoon,  and  at  half  past  two  in 
the  afternoon.  The  following  wood  cut  is  a  reprer 
sentation  of  the  capitals  of  columns  at  the  entrance  of 
this  edifice* 


7%e  Inner  Temple  HaH  is  very  considerable  in  sice, 
and  has  been  frequently  altered,  burnt,  and  rebuilt, 
from  the  days  of  Edward  III.  to  the  present  time.  The 
front  facing  the  Thames  is  of  Portland  stone,  with  three 
buttresses,  and  a' semisexagon  turret.  The  roof  sup- 
porU  a  small  cupola.  The  entrance  is  through  a  very 
large  door  in  a  western  wing,  or  projecting  buUdiHg 


186  WACKS  TfftOUGH   LONOOH. 

with  pUkrt  and  a  pedimcDt.    The  iiuide  k  efegaotly 
decorated,  tod  tlie  paintinfs  geod. 

Tke  Middle  TempU  Hall  is  an  isolated  brick  buiMing 
strengthened  by  battresseft,  and  these  qiioioed  with 
stone,  elevated  upon  vaults,  and  whose  lehoography  is 
in  the  shape  of  a  T.  A  flight  of  steps  at  the  north  east 
corner,  leaids  through  a  handsome  passage  to  the  screen, 
the  doora  of  which,  dahoratcij  ornamented  with  earring, 
admit  the  professors  to  their  ball  or  dining-room.  Thia 
is  wainscotted  as  high  as  the  bases  of  the  windows,  under 
which  is  an  enriched  Tuscan  cornice,  and  four  ranges 
of  pannels  on  each  side,  the  greater  number  filled  with 
the  emblazoned  arms  of  treasurers  in  succession.  The 
screen  consists  of  five  divisions  in  breadth,  two  of  which 
are  the  arched  doors:  the  remainder  are  bounded  by 
six  Tuscan  pillars,  whose  intercolumniations  'contain 
each  two  caryatide  busts  and  four  pannels.  The  en- 
tablature of  these  pillars  has  a  strange  intrusive  enriched 
frieze  on  the  capitals,  exclusive  of  the  usual  members. 
The  attic  has  six  pedestals,  terminating  in  Ionic  carya- 
tide busts,  which  support  a  second  entablature.  Between 
those  are  elegant  little  niches,  with  five  statues  separated 
by  pannels.  Over  each  niche  are  grotesque  figures,  as- 
sistant supporters  of  the  upper  entablature,  with  two 
pierced  arches  between  them  and  the  caryatides.  The 
whole  of  this  laboured  screen,  and  the  numerous  carv- 
ings are  of  oak»  Behind  it«  on  the  east  wall,  several 
coats  of  mail,  &c.  appear.  In  the  centre  a  pointed 
window  of  five  muUions,  contains  the  date  of  the 
baiUiiig  U70,  and  several  eeiklsfif  wTttia  in. painted 
glass,  with  whieh  eyeffy  window  ift  the  hall  ahaunds; 
This  roof  is  so  tngeaaoudy  oontrivtd,  that  it  his  been 
jnatly  obaerved,  "  I^indflfi  cannot  pfodnee  aniolhcv  »* 
stance  equal^  cunfEwa  and  lungiilar*''  Small  pndcrtab 
voitittg  op  stone  hrtfliets,  inaertted.in  the  piera  hetwean 
Um^  windowB  iatbe  nevtb  and  sonlh  waUs,  support  asg^ 


WALKS   TVaOUGR   LOWDOW.  I9f 

meats  of  large  circles  or  ribs,  thai  ascend  to  iNTcyectiDf 
beams  from  tlie  great  eornice  above  the  wiadows;  these 
are  the  boaea  of  other  small  aegmeots>  which  sustain 
beama  of  a  second  cornice;  and  thus  again  to  a  third 
TOW  of  aegroeati,  and  a  cornice;  and  from  thi$  the 
centre  pmt  of  the  roof  is  supported  on  small  pillars. 
The  OQUme  of  each  great  rib  from  the  piers  to  the 
summit*  forms  a  pointed  arch,  divided  into  three  escat- 
lepa  of  sok  oaequal  sixe;  and  these  are  connected 
east  and  west  by  arched  ribs  from  eveiy  projeoting 
beam  to  the  neat.  Bvery  great  rib  is  ornamented 
with  diree  pcBdants,  and  an  <^fiening  under  the  lantern 
admits  anfficnent  light  to  render  the  parts  distinctly 
perceptible. 

The  twcWeCasan^and  soaoeother  bustSi  are  placed  on 
the  Gonkicesof  the  wainscet,  and  the  centre  of  the  wen 
wall  sqppoytna  picture  of  Charkal.  in  armour^on  a  white 
horse,  passing  through  an  arch,  attended  by  an  equerry, 
who  earriea  his  heJmet*  Hers  are  also  portraits  of 
Chailes  II,  Qaren  Anne,  Oeorge  I.  and  IL 

The  finely^eKCcated  sooth^M^^  window,  deserves  at- 
tntioii,  as  it  is  entiaely  iUM  with  painted  glass,  moi* 
mmotely  exeentod,  tepresontiag  jdie  arms  of  a  great 
number  of  ilhistriovs  petaons,  surrounded  by  rich  and 
heantsful  ornaments.  The  library,  south  of  the  hall«  is 
in  a  state  of  comparative  neglect,  though  it  contains 
many  boob  left  by  Sir  Robert  Ashley  1641,  and  a  pair 
of  globes  of  the  time  of  Queen  Hiaabelh.  The  Parlia* 
menaChamber  of  the  Society  has  nothing  to  recommend 
it  at  present,  but  it  was  used  in  the  reign  of  James  I. 
by  CJommittees  of  the  House  of  Commons. 

The  Treasery  Chamber  of  the  Middle  Temple  used 
ts  contain  a  great  ^tuantity  ef  annour,  which  belonged 
to  the  Knights  Tempkrs,  consisting  of  helmets,  breast 
iMl'bach  pieces,  together  wii%  several  pikes,  a  halberd, 
and  two  very  beauCMM^IeMi,  with  irtm  spikes  in  their 
eentres,  of  the  length  of  six  inches,  and  each  of  about 


IflB  WALU  TBIOUGB  LOMDOM* 

twenty  pounds  weiglit.  They  are  cariondy  engraved, 
and  one  of  them  richly  inlaid  with  gold :  the  iniidet 
are  lined  with  leather  stufied,  and  the  edges  adorned  with 
tilk  fringe,  and  broad  leather  belts  are  fixed  to  them,  for 
the  bearers  to  sling  them  upon  thetr  shoulders. 

The  buildings  erected  by  the  Templars  must  have 
long  since  perished  by  degrees.  Courts  after  courts 
have  arisen  in  succession,  till  every  inch  of  ground  is 
filled  with  lofty  houses ;  each  floor,  and  almost  every 
room  of  which  have  different  tenants.  The  Pt^r 
Buildings,  as  they  are  termed,  erected  in  I6p5,  seem 
the  most  airy  and  convenient,  commanding  4n  front  a 
considerable  area ;  and  the  back  windows  a  fine  view 
up  the  river  Thames,  bounded  by  Westminster  Halt, 
the  Abbey,  the  House  of  Commons,  the  Strand  or 
Waterloo  Bridge,  Blackfriars,  and  patt  of  Westminster 
Bridge,  over  a  fore-ground  composed  of  the  Temple 
Garden. 

The  terrace  before  the  Inner  Temple-Hall,  ia  rego^ 
larly  paved,  and  facing  the  south  is  always  dry,  an 
advantage  that  attracts  many  visitors,  who  often  pass 
their  leisure  hours  in  conversation,  or  admiring  the 
trees,  walks,  flowers,  and  the  moving  scenery  of.  the 
river.  The  most  inviting  and  retired  promenade  is 
the  fountain  in  Fountain*Couft, .  where  a  stream  of 
water  is  forced  to  a  considerable  height,  and  faUa  again 
into  a  neat  circular  bason,  surrounded  by  rails  and 
very  beautiful  trees,  through  which  the  antique  waUs 
and  buttresses  of  the  Middle  Temple  Hdl  have  an 
efifect  es^tremely  picturesque.  Hence  the  eye  descends 
down  a  flight  of  broad  steps  to  a  handsooie  railing, 
enclosing  a  garden  with  excellent  gravel  ^alks,  bor- 
dered by  flowers.  .  On  the  quadrangular  passages  and 
afleys  in  the  Temple,  no  encomium  can  be  passed;  for 
not  having  one  pretension  to  lights  or  good  air,  they 
are  only  suited  to  local  conv^nieoce. 

The  progress  of  civilization  is  no  where  more  strongly 


WALKS  TBB0V6H  LONDON*  199 

marked  than  between  the  former  occupants  of  the 
Temple  and  those  of  the  present  day.  lo  the  reign  of 
ifenry  the  Eighth,  the  societies  here  were  ordered  not 
to  play  shave  or  slip  groai,  under  a  penalty  of  six 
ihiUings  and  eight*pence ;  and  subsequently  to  desis 
from  knocking  with  boxes,  or  calhng  aloud  for  games* 
ters,  during  the  Christmas  Commons,  which  were  held 
three  weeks,  when  the  lords  and  gentlemen  of  the 
societies  were  in  the  habit  of  going  beyond  their  pre* 
cincls  for  the  kgal  purposes  of  breakup  open  h&iuet 
and  chambers,  "  and  to  take  things  in  the  name  of 
rent  or  distress.'*  For  these  proceedings  they  were 
jQstly  abhorred  so  recently  as  the  reign  of  Charles 
the  First. 

According  to  Dugdale,  they  were  addicted  to  dan- 
gerous rencontres  with  weapons ;  hence  orders  were 
issued,  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  that  the  feU 
lows  should  carry  no  other  weapons  into  the  hall  than 
a  dagg^  or  hn(fe.  Shakespeare  also  alludes  to  the 
brawls  in  this  place ;  but  at  present  the  extreme  sUO* 
ness  and  quiet  of  the  receptacle  of  counsellors  and 
indents  throughout  London,  fuUy  evince  the  care  and 
propriety  of  conduct  observed  by  the  principals,  and 
ihew  that  the  leisure  hours  of  the  professors  are  devoted 
to  those  pursuits  that  enlighten  the  mind,  and  in  pro* 
portion,  refine  the  manners. 

We  pass  Middle  Temple-Lane  to  Fleet-Street,  under 
the  Middle  Temple  Gate,  erected  by  Sir  Christopher 
Wren,  in  1684.  The  front  is  of  brick,  with  four  large 
•tone  pilasters  of  the  Ionic  order,  and  a  handsome  pedi* 
ment  with  a  round  in  the  middle.  The  Holy  Lambi 
the  annorial  ensign  of  the  society,  appears  just  above 
the  arch.  Above  the  first  range  of  windows,  looking 
into  Fleet-Street,  is  the  following  inscription : 

"  Sktrrexii  impetrnM  SocUi*  Mid.  Tew^li,  1688." 


140  WALR8   THROOOH   LOHDQIL 

There  are  four  entrancei  into  the  TemjAe  beiidee 
those  in  Fleet«Street;  ftnd  it  it  a  thoroug;hfare  dunD^^ 
the  day>  but  the  gate*  are  tbut  at  nights  The  gardens 
are  open  to  the  public  in  summer. 

Entering  Fleet -Street  on  the  sooth  side,  the  City  of 
London  termsnateB  at  the  house  under  the  ancietf  t  fimt 
of  Messrs.  Child  and  Co.  Bankers; 

The  range  of  houses  near  and  aver  the  Inder  Teaopie 
Gate,  are  of  the  architecture  of  the  teign  of  Jamea  Urn 
Firsts  as  is  etident  A-om  the  plume  of  feathers  oik  the 
house  to  the  east  of  the  gstej  iateoded  as  a  complkxieni 
to  Henry,  Prince  of  Wales,  then  the  object  of  popular 
favour.  The  gate  itself  was  erected  in  1611,  at  the 
expense  of  John  Benet,  Esq.  King's  Seijeaot,  and  is  a 
specimen  of  thie  heavy  mode  ^  bulidii^  pecvlia^  to 
that  period.  The  Cloister  Chambcra,  mear  the  Temple 
Church,  being  buvnt  dowai  in  1679,  were  re*ercoled 
and  elevated  om  twenty-seven  piUars  and  colunnaef 
the  Tuscan  order,  m  laai.  Another  part  of  the  baild^ 
ing  between  Brick  and  Essest-Ceairt,  hesag  bamt  Avmth 
waa  re^erecM  in  the  year  17M. 

Farther  eastward  is  FklcoH'^Jaun  and  SerfimM^s  Iim, 
which,  tboaghi  it  retains  its  aacieiit  name,  can  oaly  be 
considered  a§  a  rospeecaUe  court.  Its  principal  ea^ 
trance  is  lin>iB  Fleet-Street  Seicral  gentlemext  of  tbe 
long  robe  reside  here.  On  the  site  of  the  ancient  kaV, 
ibr  many  years  used  aa  a  ehapel,  isa  very  elegant  stone 
struetarei  built  for  the  useof  tbc  Amicable  Soeiecy. 

Eartward  of  SeijeaDl'fe  Inw,  to  aaarrow  avenue  called 
Lombard-fikreet,  very  near  the  site  of  the  WMte  Fviafs 
Ckarch,  in  the  time  o#  Bdwavd  the  TMrd,  wbea  the 
Camelite  Friaffs  coioplained  to  that  aionareliof  tiM 
distarlmnces  made  by  the  le^  women  barbOuMd 
there. 

White  Frian. — ^The  church  belonging  to  the  priory 
of  Carmetites,  or  White  ffws,  srood  Ipetween  the 
Green  Dragon  public-house  and  Water-Lane.    Their 


7  ,'■§-"•> 


140  WALKS   THRODOH    LONOOlIk 

There  are  four  entrance!  into  the  TemjAe  beiidea 
ttuMuLia  Fl^pUStrPTt ;  Und/it  it  a  thoroufirhfarc  durina^ 


i  •  .     V..-  .  ..  .! 


ci:  • 


PUi:^.l.  "iMBliARY 


WALKS   THftOVOR    I^NDON.  ^14l 

^'.^r^^.^  iv,,*f^i.^  K»  gw  yjnliMiMl   flrgg,    in  1941, 


.  •  .,.    I'f^  *•' 


..••:   .*.•<!  ••»       .t*    •       .;  .J  *»:      '■    •'• 


.    •    ..-•..;     ;a  lb"  #'t:-«  ei.i  ••   U'  !' •  .»  »•..    ':  •:    ^i 

«  »-'-v  i'»ir<i»rTr/»\!  ifi';»ri>%fnii "I.  ^f  -••    •  '»    .•-  i  ■   ■ 

iH-.-.   .  t  an<?  an  a^'  •*«*  <.->  :* .  .^  .^-j- %  ii"«l-    .  .^  » 

.  .   "O  •    ■  ^"  ti«''n  .  .ar...r'»»^  p.  -.».,?■•.  ^\    '. 

*  .  •  •  -J  ■'»'  .   r«T  ••>  :i%'    *f  'k  1/'   <   .i'0*'.»«\       fti*   }  •   •••  ;S 

>*    Bttd^^  or  '^.  ^     •    5  Or  irr^.  was  ■«»  t  ■".•'   -i 
.hha»»caii||f«ied  roe&  beMtifUNy  adorned  widi  ardlm 


:i   .T^«j-.;.«J«' 


WALKS  THftOUOR    LONDON.  ^141 

priory  was  Ibunded  by  Sir  RidMrd  Gray/  In  1941. 
This  was  also  the  pkioc  of  burial  for  many  nobtes,  as 
VMOfdcd  in  Sfow's  Survey.  After  the  ehiirch  had 
been  demolished  subsequent  to  the  Reformation,  with 
all  its  stately  tombs,  the  Chapter-house,  the  library, 
several  houses,  gardens,  stables,  &c.  were  occupied- by 
persons  of  fbsbion.  Amon|f  these  was  Sir  John  Cheeke, 
Knight,  TVjtor,  and  afterwards  Secretary  of  State  to 
Ring  Edward  the  Sixth. 

In  the  year  1006,  the  inbablUnts  of  the  precincts  of 
White  and  Black  Friars  obtained,  by  charter  of  James 
the  First,  certain  privileges  and  exemptionii;  but  some 
af  the  inbabilants  taking  upon  them  to  protect  persons 
from  arrests,  the  gentry  ld!t  It,  and  it  became  a  samS 
tuary  to  the  loose  and  disorderly,  which  was  kept  up 
by  larce  againitlaw  and  justice,  and  had  the  nick-name 
of  AuATiA,  whence  a  satirteal  comedy,  written  by 
Shadwell,  denominated,  lie  Squire  qf  Ahaiia,  had  Its 
arigia.  Those  privileges  were  rescinded  by  an  act  of 
partiasMBt,  in  the  latter  end  of  William  the  Thiid's 
reign. 

A  vevy  sqhftantial  improveosenl  has  since  been  made 
in  these  precincts :  mesi  ef  the  ruinous  places  have 
keen  kveHed,  and  an  avenue  of  good  houses  made  Into 
PleetTSlreet,  deneaqinatfBd  Bsuveri^-Streel. 

lUn  bonne  of  RidMtrdson,  the  author  of  Fsmek,  ftc. 
is  said  to  have  been  in  a  narrow  passage  between  Water- 
lane  and  Saiisbury-^uave.  Pamela's  master,  H  is 
au4,  waa  the  Earl  ef  Qainsbovough  in  the  lelgn  of 
Geange  the  Second,  who  rcw«rded  the  inflexible  virtue 
of  Eliasketh  Chapasisn,  bis  game-keeper^  danghter, 
by  exalting  her  to  the  rank  ef  Countess.  The  ftmaous 
anoient  printer,  Wynkyn  de  Worde,  lived  hereabout, 
Hhis  messuage^  called  Uie  Falcon. 

A.  BridgBif  of  A.  BtUk^u  Gmrek,  was  so  called  on 
•iPMinl  of  being  dsdic^ted  to  that  ibmale  Irisb  saint 
ithasacamrvaled  roei^  beautiftiHy  adorned  with  archef 


143  WALKS  TBBOUCH  LOMDOlf. 

qf  finet'irork^  betweefi  each  of  which  is  a  {NiDiiel  of 
crocket  and  fret-work,  and  a  port-hole  window.  The 
entrances  are  two  on  the  north  and  two  on  the  south 
fides,  of  the  Composite  order,  and  one  very  spacioiis 
towards  the  west,  adorned  with  pilasters,  entablature, 
and  arched  pediment  of  the  Ionic  order.  At  the  west 
end  of  the  church  is  also  a  strong  outer  door-case  of 
the  Ionic  order,  over  which  are  these  words,  under 
a  seraph,  Domus  Dei. 

The  altitude  of  thu  steeple  was  two  hundred  and 
Ihirty-four  feet ;  but,  on  account  of  various  accidents 
that  have  hiippened,  has  been  considerably  loweied. 
It  consists  of  a  tower  and  lofty  spire  of  stone,  adorned 
with  pillars  and  entablature  of  the  Corinthian  order^ 
arched  pediment,  &c.;  and  the  spire  lanterns  are  of 
the  Tuscan  order.  Here  are  a  fine  peal  of  twelve 
bells.  Thb  spire,  &c.  was  considerably  damaged  by 
lightning  in  the  month  of  June,  1764. 

The  altar-pice  is  beautiful  and  magnificent:  the 
lower  part  consists  of  six  carved  columns,  painted  stone 
colour,  with  entablature  of  circular  pediment  of  the 
Corinthian  order,  embellished  with  lamps,  cherubim, 
&c.  gilt.  Above  these  are  the  arms  of  England  finely 
carved  and  gilt ;  and  the  window  above  is  stained,  in 
imitation  of  a  Glory.  The  upper  part,  over  the  deca* 
logue,  is  painted,  and  consists  of  six  columns,  adorned 
with  a  neat  scarlet  silk  curtain,  edged  with  gdd  fringe, 
with  their  architrave  frieze  and  cornice  finely  executed 
in  perspective.  In  the  front  are  the  portraitures  of 
Moses  and  Aaron :  the  former  with  the  two  tables  in 
his  band,,  and  the  latter  in  his  high  priest's  h^it ;  the 
enrichments  are  gilt  The  whole  is  enclosed  with  rail 
aod,hfUwister,  and  the  floor  paved  with  white  and 
black  marble.  Here  are  three  fine  branches.  The 
church  is  illuminated  with  patent  lamps,  and  warmed 
during  the  winter  season  with  spiral  stores.  The  body 
is  wainscotte4  round  with  oak  eight  feet  high,  and  has 


WALKft  THKOUOB   LOMDOll.  143 

qMCKNu  galleries  on  the  north,  louthj  and  west  tides ; 
wad  the  pulpit  is  carved  and  veneered.  Here  is  a  good 
organ,  by  Harris. — Among  several  monumental  inscrip- 
tions remarkable  for  their  good  sense,  is  the  following, 
in  memory  of  Mary,  late  wife  of  William  Biogley, 
bookseller.  She  died  June  11, 1796,  in  the  thirty-sixth 
year  of  her  marriage. 

**  To  yon,  dear  wife,  to  worth  bat  rarely  Icoown, 

I  raue  with  tighf  thii  monamentsl  stooe  ; 

Aod  though  matare  from  earth  to  facavea  remof^fl. 

In  death  stilt  hoooar'd,  aa  in  life  belof'd  s 

Oft  af  I  catt  to  miod  bar  love  sincere^ 

Her  virtvcy  fnendtbip,a]l  the  world  holdi  dear. 

With  what  maternal  tendernew  cndned. 

Her  truth,  her  more  than  female  fortitnde. 

The  rod  of  power  Umg  patient  to  MUtaln 

A  pmnftd  itlnem  long,  yet  ne'er  comphdn : 

And  now  reeignM  to  eterlasting  rest. 

She  Icavw  a  bright  example  to  tfas  bait. 

For  whoa  thi«  tnuiticnt  dream  of  life  is  o'er. 

And  all  the  busy  passions  are  no  more. 

Say  what  arails  them  bat  to  leare  behind 

Tke  footstefi  af  m  good  and  gmermu  mind, 

W.  B. 

Abo  the  said  William  Bingley,  died  38d  of  October, 
17W,  aged  sixty-one. 

**  Cold  is  that  heart  that  beat  in  IVeedom's  came. 
The  steady  adrocaU  of  all  her  laws  ; 
Unmoved  by  threats  or  bribes^  his  race  he  ran, 
And  lif'd  and  died  the  pstriot,  the  man." 

Underneath  the  church  wall,  at  the  east  end,  stands 
the  pwnp  thai  coven  Bridewell,  or  St.  Brid^t  Wdi» 
Mined  agreeably  to  the  superstition  of  the  times  in 
appropriating  wells  to  the  persons  or  things  bd^nging 
to  the  ehiiveh,  as  Monk's  Well,  Clerken  oi"  Clerk^s 
W€«,HdIyWell,^. 

Knives  were  fint  made  in  Bngtand  <by  Thkmns 
MattfaewsoQ  Fleet  Bridge,  in  the  year  156S;  but  the 


144       •  WALKS  TBROUGH  LOMDON. 

UM  of  forks  U  UUe  did  not  pre? ail  in  Eagland  till  the 
reign  of  James  the  First. 


WALKX. 


Commencing  at  Fidd-Lime  to  Ckick^Lane,  Black  Bey 
Alky,  Sajfran-Hill,  Kirby-Street^  Hatton-Gardcn, 
Haitqn  Wall,  Leather  Lome,  UfUorpond'Streei, 
Gray's  Inn  Lane.  Return  liy  Porgpoel-Idme,  Bold- 
win' 9  Gardens  to  HoAofn  Bars,  and  ky  Brook^HoMte, 
Street  and  Market,  continue  to  Vkmival^s  hm.  Hat' 
toi^Garden  and  Sly  Place,  to  Field-Lane. 

Fibld-Lanb,  described  by  Stow  ''  as  a  61tby  pas- 
sage into  the  fields''  is  stUi  remarkahlQ  as  one  of  tlie 
worst  avenues  in  the  metropolis,  and  lor  the  old  shoes, 
shirts,  and  clothes,  sold  here.  It  is  constanlly  crowded 
with  passengers  to  the  various  petty  streets  and  alleys 
of  SaflBron-Hill,  Liberty,  &c. 

CUck-Lane,  though  rather  wider  than  FieId*Lane, 
is  still  a  very  iaosaveQieilt  plice^  thovgb  the  new  work- 
house  for  the  poor  of  St  Sepulchre,  at  tbe  east  end  of 
it,  is  a  handMHne  spacious  building.  Black-Boy-AU^, 
on  the  north  tide,  is  no  longer  the  terrible  place  it  was 
in  the  early  part  of  George  the  Second's  reign,  though 
the  houses  are  in  a  ruinous  condition,  and  the  avenues 
extremely  dirty  and  obscure. 

AccGffding  to  Aggas's  nap  of  London  in  1560,  the 
north  side  off  Holhvn,  the  house  of  Lord  Bmdar*  Ely 
Palace,  &e.  cosMisitod  of  a  sisigle  roi^,  with  gardcsii 
hchlQd  them :  Field  Ijme  waa  a  nare  opemag  to  the 
fields.  WbeffeSaflh>n  Hill  stands  at  preieat  there  was 
a  narrow  path  through  a  long  pastnue^  wHh  Toromill* 
Bvook  on  one  side,  and  Loid  Hatton's  garden  waK  oi^ 
the  other,    A  passage  hetweon  two  ho4gea  passed  t^ 


'  ;?»•*    V    "  f. 


?i*' 


l:.U 


rA  11\*    .       J    w    M 


V,         i,-: 


»'»  ♦^Tihr-' ''"     •  ^ 


».-.»    f 


I.      •   •'  VlJ 


JVj/^jo^ 


\ 


Itt 

I,  <Hi  the  site  of  Ghick-Lane,  noted  aboat  tiilf 
yean  since  for  the  Black-Boy-AOey  g9mg,  tweiity-one 
of  wboni  were^  tmr  norder,  &c.  on  ikis  detestable  8pot« 
excc«ted  at  once  at  Tybdrn.  AfWr  this  event,  a  krge 
piece  of  waale  gn^nnd,  now  tbe  site  of  St.  Sepulchre*! 
«6ikhonse«  bora  the  appeltatkm  of  Jack  Ketch'ti  Com; 
■Mm.  Black-Boy- Alley  has  been  since  the  scene  of  a 
weekly  exhibitioo  of  badg^er-baiting^  &c.  which,  with 
the  craekiet  firactised  upon  that  noble  animal  the 
hane,  it  was  baped  Lard  Erskine's  proposed  biil  would 
hnse  put  aai  end  to;  but  this  was  lost  by  a'  majority 
against  it !  ' 

Saflrmm  JhU  is  a  loBf  street  of  indifferent  houses:  d 
pasnge  firon  this  leads  to  Cbariea^Street  and  Kirby« 
StMset.  inCress-Streettbereoiainsof^AfftMi-ilMMrara 
still  to  be  seen  in  good  preservation.  It  has  behind  it'a 
neat  chapel,  ariganaiybnik  ioft  a  oangregation  of 
BunnmelSawdenborg's  persnasion  ;  this  is  now  occupied 
fay  a  congregation  of  Cidviaistic  principles^ 

Bat  4md  Tmh  Ym'd  a^jjjaoent,  is  a  corniption  of 
■alian»Yard,  the  nane  beiag  dervrad  Urom  the  occa« 
pier  of  the  hanse  in  the  reign  of  <taeen  Elieaheth. 
'  The  bnsMing  at  the  corner  of  OoH'StfM  towardia 
HatlDn-^yanieh,  now  occupied  as  a  cfaahty-school  At 
8t  Andrew's  parish,  was  erected  by  Christopher  Lorl 
Viscount  Hnttian,  for  a  chapel. 

ilatlan«4iardeR  has  been  inhabited  by  oiany  respeft^ 
aUepctaons;  anang  them  Sir  Edwnrd  Ccfer,  Edwaai 
SUDingfleet,  D.D.,  Dr.  Moore,  Bisbop  of  Ndrwtcli»  te;; 
Idc.  Of  late  years,  several  of  the  honses  in  this  spaeiooa 
stviet  bare  txen  converted  into  shops,  &c.  Here  is  6ne 
af  the  FMci  Oficf^  wheM  the  magistrates  attend  ewry 
day.  About  I60bt  Lord  HaHon  liegan  Co  baiid  the 
hualiunii.  atreeU  dial  «ccapy  and  gire  name  to  tbe  siM 
afihegmid«i.  PMing  through  Chnstoplier^tieet,  w^ 
intnf  «t  JLeMher4Lanif,  crossing  tiMeh  ne  enter  JW^aor^ 


146  .  WALKS  TBBOUGH    LOHDOM. 

fond  Street,  remarkable  only  i»  the  •HaatkNi  of  Ibe  im- 
mente  brewhouae  of  Mesart.  Meux  and  Reid. 

<3ray*s*Inn^LMu  has  been  ocmsiderably  improved 
wKbin  the  last  ten  years,  oentaiiiin|^very  good  hooacsb 
buih  within  that  period,  almost  up  to  the  Fonndinig^ 
Hospiul,  and  on  the  eastern  siden  hnndsomechapol  ibr 
the  late  eccentric  WilUam  Huntingdon,  &  &  or  Saved 
Sinner. 

The  house  of  the  Wekh  Charity  School,  a  little  higher 
up,  is  a  handsome  brick  buikling.enckMed  within  a  laifpe 
area,  and  contains  some  curious  vduable  manuscripts 
relating  to  the  history  of  the  Ancient  Britons,  particu- 
hriy  an  accurate  copi^  of  the  laws  of  Uowel  Dha.  This 
establishment  supports  one  hundred  children.  Nearly 
a«]|jacent  to  this  place  is  the  elegant  riding^bouse  of  the 
City  Light  Horse  Volunteers. 

'  Jleobaid'i  Road  and  Kite's  Road  were  so  called, 
because  James  I.  always  passed  this  way  when  he  came 
to  town  from  his  palace  at  Theobmldi,  in  Hertfordshire. 

Baldwm'e  Gardens,  running  between  Leadier-Lane 
and  Gray  VInn-Lane,  were,  according  to  a  stone  which 
till  lately  was  to  have  been  seen  against  a  comer 
house,  bearing  the  arms  of  Queen  £liaabelb«  named 
after  one  of  her  gardeners,  who  began  building  here. 
The  Hole-in-^the-Wall  was  the  resort  of  the  facetioos 
Tom  Brown.  A  large  house  at  present  on  the  north 
side  of  this  street  contieiins  the  NatimuU  Sbcic^'s  Ceniral 
School,  where  aeveral  hundred  chiklren  are  instrnded 
according  to  Br.  Bell's  systeift. 

Grajf's  Inn.  This  is  the  most  distinguishable  object 
in  Gray's«Inn-Lane,  &c.  It  is  a-  place  of  great  ann 
tiqaity,  and  extends  from  the  west  side  of  this  lane  U> 
the  buck  of  Bedford-Row,  and  to  Hotbom  and  Tbeo- 
bald^s  Road  on  the  sooth  and  north .  The  principal 
entrance  is  from  Holbonl»  wht^rethe  Society's  domiaiia 
are  concealed  by  a  number  of  mean  oklhoiisc%  w^i 


WALKS  mOUGH   LONDON.  |47 

of  wluch,  it  lias  been  obsenrcd^  is  el^^tnt,  though  ''  of 
fifty  Ymrious  forms/'  nor  even  tolerable^  the  Gray's-Inn 
Cofie^heose  excepted.  The  Dorthero  boundary  of 
Gray  Vlnn  is  formed  by  a  tall  brick  walU  which  encloses 
the  grove  and  garden  belonging  to  the  Society.  These 
are  extensive,  and  have  a  rural  and  pleasing  efiect  The 
entrance  to  them  from  the  south  side  is  through  a  rich 
gate  and  piers,  and  a  vile  court.  The  Holbom  en- 
tnoce-  to  Gray's-Ino-Lane  b  not  much,  better.  The 
avapue  from  Gray's-Inn-Lane  has  been  much  improved 
sioee  the  erection  of  the  new  houses  called  Verulam 
BmUUng;  which  are  handsome  and  substantial,  but 
without  any  decorations. 

The  Cft^qpe/  and  Bull  stand  between  that  part  of  the 
Inn  called  Holbom^onrt  and  the  Square,  extending 
towards  Gray's-Inn-Lane«  at  the  southrcast  comer  of 
the  Square.  It  is  destitute  of  every  kind  of  ornament, 
and  so  entirely  plain,  that  one  of  the  best  writers  on  the 
subject  of  architecture  observes,  "  that  a  description 
of  it  will  be  accomplished  in  saying  it  has  four  walls, 
and  several  windows  large  and  small.** 

The  Hall  is  a  brick  building  in  that  style  of  archi- 
tectere  which  prevailed  from  the  time  of  Henry  VIII. 
to  that  of  James  L,  with  buttresses  of  two  gradations 
^  the  sides,  prelecting  angular  muUioned  windows  and 
embattled  gables,  and  a  turret. 

The  roof  of  this  Hall  is  similar  to  that  of  the  Middle 
Temple,  and  the  skreen  of  the  Tuscan  order  with 
pillars ;  caryatides  support  the  cornice ;  the  windows 
are  filled  with  armorial  bearings.  "  This  College  or 
Ion  of  Court  is  situated  within  the  manor  of  Purtpuk, 
abas  Portpool,  oear  Holbome,  in  the  county  of  Middle- 
sex, which  bath  remained  hereditary  in  the  honourable 
finally  of  the  Grays,  the  absolute  owners  thereof  from 
fono  82  Edward  I.  until  the  reign  of  Henry  VJI."  &c, : 
thaa  .it  appears  that  the  noble  family  of.  the  Grays  de 
Wilton  (kmised  it  to  several  students  of  the  law. 


148  ^ALlts  fHti6vcit  toft^ioir. 

tiding  toBrookVMarft<^t,  ifteiiiTcVamp-S^itet,  l)teVifeigtt 
ton-Street  and  Gfevitle-SWeet,  2lf(  named  frt)m  tft^p 
fiHes  of  the  LcA'ds  Brobke,  tkrh  of  trobke  arfi'd  W«- 
ifirick.  Tde  mansion  called  Bfook-flouse  fronted  Hof* 
JSorn.  I^ear  this  pUce  ^as  afso  tite  mMsibn  of  fb€ 
family  of  Bourcbier,  Earls  of  S!4l1i,  ii[/ter\rards  clftlfetf 
B&th-Place. 

tiirnivaVs-fnn,  Ttie  nbble  fth/hily  of  Fohiivtil  cAlibie 
/rom  Normandy  in  the  rief^h  bf  Rich^  t. ;  fHoilhi  tbtt 
feiniiy  Chis  inn  or  dwelirnj^  came  to  the  Tdbots,  wbd 
iotd  it  io  the  Society  of  tinc6Tn'8  Itm,  \ti  the  te\gti  tJt 
Edward  VI.  The  Inn  is  divided  lAto  two  squiar^i  dt 
courfs;  but  the  building  are  in  k  st4te  of  de<r4y,  tod 
Auch  neglected.  The  front  next  Hoftk>Vn  is  ft  (ksi 
specimen  of  old  brick  wbrln,  itdofned  ivi(h  pitefet«^Ydf 
ftoutdihgs,  and  4  handsome  ai^ched  gatentrliy,  ^pp^etiQf 
In  the  mode  of  arctiltectufe  wfitch  prev&iled  in  tfMf 
time  of  Inigo  Jones.  Nothing  particular  occurs  16  itts 
Walk  tin  we  come  to  E<y  ttace,  the  first  turnitfg  to  Ufif 
east  beyond  the  street  catlcfd  ^atton- Garden. 

*ttie  elegant  houses  which  occupy  the  htit  6f  the 
ancient  palace  of  the  Bishops  of  Ely,  which  W^  ToY^ 
merly  called  fefy's  tnn,  was  built  iri 'ionseqiTerfce  of  t 
will  made  by  Bishop  Jobn  He  ICirkby,  v^h6  ^ied  Uk 
1290^  which  bequeathed  to  bFs  succ^sors  a  Itfe^tTI^ 
and  nine  cottages,  situated  in  Hto1b6rh,  #hldi  ttffier* 
wards  formed  the  sife  of  the  (5aft)iut  ttiatii>l6il  of  tft^ 
i^ishops  of  fly.  the  estate  6t^\y  tiou^  hkd  intte^^ 
to  such  a  degree,  in  the  time  6t!dueen  £tiz)ibe(Tl^  tlhtt 
the  i^bole,  consisting  of  buildings,  gardetis,  p^t'Qfl!!^ 
and  inclosures,  contained  above  twenty  tidres  of  gfoiittjl 
enclosed  within  a  wall,  kisbop  ftt^fiafd  Cot,  at  iht 
pressing  instances  of  Queen  £ll2Kbfetli,  leased  tlftf 
western  part  of  the  hottse,  aihd  a(l  th^  ^ffeat  gardeti  tdr 
dbmtopher  Ha^ton,  !Bsq.  aftef ivkrdls  bigh  thktlcA^t 
of  England,  for  the  tefiii  6f  i^entf^Ot  jreM.    fhk 


V 

V 

f 


t48  WALltS  fHtt6c6it  tolfffM. 


•  »1    •  '> 


;     T 


KvcBiciii  paib  \/A   1.116  bobsvj  nt%%A  uii  ilic:  gtCAt  i^ardcn  't0 

titimCopher  HaCton,  iBsq.  aftef wkrAs  High  Chti^fcdRo^ 
of  England,  for  tlie  tefth  6f  titretit^-dil^  jreM.    1^ 


■i        . 


r 


uBUC  LIBRARY 


HlUtaffi  ijilervraid^  made  ,u«fs  of  for  mpfing 
Ae'ftiftQm  to  oblige  the  Bish<y^  ^  al^nate  it  .to  .l^ifiy 
te4  Wtncli  she  fM^u#ily  di^,  ^a)ciDg  ^§e  of  bcrpi;^- 
iflogative  ad  ft  niiMt  ui^^^oi^rtly  man^r.  The  c^ptr^ce 
te  4^9  great  lKHif&  v(hif:|i.s(pQ^  .within  the  mepoqrjr  of 
^/Oftsfd  i«enRf|8  livipg,  WM  i)^P<Kt  opposite  ip  3t.  A^i- 
4rev'a  Cbii«eh>  Uwpvgh  ^a  H^ge  gi|tei^f(y  or  poft^^ 
iciige,  ipto  a  sqi^  p^^  poiirt.    Qo  the  rigl)t  |i^ 
4Kne  8QID1S  piBQe94lipp<)rt(Q(l.%  a  coJapade,  and  on  tbc 
Jei^  m  garden,  tepafaUfl  frc^iPr^he  cfm^  \^y  a  brick  wal}. 
filppo«He  the  eptq»nce:^pp)B9ir^the.X(<»er^ble  old  hfdl* 
dociginally  buUt  wilb  tCope;  its  roof  waai^eral  i»rith  k^. 
^A^oioiiig  to  the  Brest  jepdyei^  the  f^lii^f  loilgipg  roony, 
and  olftier  apmrtnieoU.  4t(W^  iightei)  by  fix  ^rg«  (^odup 
«Uidowsj  the  Boor  wpp  pwfed  with  tjl^i^;  ^  the  Ipw^ 
pid  vas  aa>oakf  u  scr^Q,  ;ll9d  near  .the  upper  end  an 
atccnt.of  ope  atop  for  ihe  high  t^ble,  accordipg  to  tlfe 
old  fnglifhifiishiop.    To  ihe  porihwest  of  tbe  hall  waa 
a  quadrangular  cloister,  and  in  the  centre  a  small 
garden  ;  the  east  side  was  a  lumber  room.     Over  the 
cloisters  were  lodging  rooms  pr  galleries,  with  several 
ancient  windows.     Here  was  a  venerable  hall,  seventy- 
four  feet  long,  with  six  l^ige  painted  windows. 

In  this  palace  were  several  great  and  solemn  feasts ; 
the  first  in  1464,  held  by  Uie  Keijeant8-ai-law,on  taking 
their  coifs.  And  in  1531,  after  another  held  by  the  Ser- 
jeant^ King  H^nry  and  C^ueen  Catherine  of  Arragon 
dined  there  in  separate  chambers,  and  the  foreign  am- 
bassadors, occupied  a  third  apartment.  It  was  in  .this 
palace  tbi^  Jphii  of  Gaunt,  Duke  of  Lancaster,  lived 
after  the  Savoy  wm  burnt  by  Wat  Tyler,  and  here  he 
died  in  1|99.  l)iis)ioqse  and  grounds,  after  remaining 
ID  the  Scje  of  Ely  near  four  hundred  and  eighty-six 
years,  the  Bi^yps  of  .Ely  were  enaU<»d  to  dispose  of 
by  an  Actcf  parliament  passed  in  Jme  :1778.  Tbe 
ancient  chapel  has  been  mostly  rebuilt. 


150  -WALKS  TBROUGH  ^ONDON. 

This  chapel  is  dedicated  to  St.  Ethehreda.  Tlie  exact 
time  it  was  built  is  not  known ;  it  stood  adjoining  to  the 
north  side  of  the  cloister,  in  a  quadrangle  planted  wkk 
trees,  and  surrounded  by  a  wall.  It  was  ninety-one 
feet  long  and  thirty-one  broad,  having  at  each  angle  a 
buttress  or  turret,  crowned  with  a  conical  cap  or  pin- 
nacle. The  floor  was  about  ten  or  twelve  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  ground,  supported  by  eight  strong  cbeannt 
posts,  running  from  east  to  west,  under  the  centre  of  the 
building.  This  formed  a  crypt,  the  size  of  the  chapel, 
having  six  windows  on  the  north,  answering  to  as  many 
niches  on  the  south  side.  The  entrance  into  this  place 
was  through  a  small  Gothic  arch  under  the  east  window ; 
but  the  whole  building  being  much  injured  and  defaced 
by  time,  was  in  a  great  degree  restored  by  the  late 
proprietor,  and  serves  as  the  present  place  of  worahip 
in  Ely  Place,  called  Ely  Chapel.  The  magnificent  east 
window  of  this  edifice  is  represented  in  the  wood  cnt. 


ir^^A  j;^ 


-Mr^^^ 


ji>^. 


A    \. 


t      •.'      ...i    '• 

.  'l  III   »0  :  . 


\ 


/ 


WALKS  THBOVCH  LONDON.  151 

*  Below  Ely  Pteoe  stood  Scnop^t  Ikm,  in  King  Henry 
tbe  Seventh's  time,  said  "  to  be  situate  against  tlie 
duirch  of  St.  Andrewt  in  Okl  Bourne,  in  the  city  of 
London,  wkh  two  gardens  and  two  messuages  to  this 
lame  tenement  belonging."  This  place  still  retains  the 
name  of  ScroapcM  Conn,  Lower  down  was  formerly 
GoidLame. 

'  John  Gerard,  the  most  celebrftted  of  our  ancient 
botanists,  had  his  garden  in  Hoiborn.  He  was.  a 
surgeon,  and  many  years  retained  as  chief  gardener 
lo  Lord  Burleigh. 

Oldbaame  was  the  name  of  an  ancient  village  built 
upon  the  rivukt  or  bourne  of  that  name,  which  sprang 
up  near  the  south  end  of  Gray's-Inn-Lane,  and  ran  in 
a  clear  current  to  the  bridge  at  the  bottom  of  the  road> 
where  it  fell  into  the  Fket  river. 


WALK  XI. 

^rasi  the  north  end  qf  Fettet'Lane  doum  Holbom  to 
Shoe-Lane  and  Fleet-Street,^  Fetter-Lane  to  Holbom, 
the  Barrs,  Middle-Row,  Chaneefy-Lane  to  Fleet-Street 
and  Temple  Bar.. 

BAaTLBTT's-BuiLpiNOs  Contain  the  house  of  the  So» 
ci^y  for  promoting  Christian  Knowledge.  Another 
Society  has  arisen  out  of  the  original  one,  founded  in 
•1696..  Their  principal  object  is  the  support  of  missions, 
the  distribution  of  bibles,  prayer-books,  and  various 
rdigious  tracts,  to  a  great  amount,  every  year. 
•  JTudvee-Inn,  now  a  street  of  handiMMne  houses,  was 
pnoe  the  site  pf  an  ^cient  Hoepitium  or  mansion  be* 
longing,  to  John  Tbaive  or  Tavie,  as  early  as  the  reign 


^Edwtrd  III.  Id  die  reign  of  Edwaid  VL  ile  pro- 
IMPietor  granted  it  to  the  benchers  of  Unoohi'aJiiD^  for 
the  use  of  the  Btndents^at-law :  fire  having  at  lengtfi 
destroyed  the  premises^  a  private  range  of  hoildinga 
rose  upon  its  ruins. 

Lower  down  is  situated  the  parish  chnrch  of  Sf« 
Andrtvf,  Holbam,  rebuilt  in  1697,  by  Sir  Chnito|iber 
Wren>  and  is  one  of  his  most  finished  perConnaDCes. 
The  tower  or  sqaare  steeple  was  first  erected  in  i447» 
tnd  repaired  in  1704.  Itsakitade  is  om  handrad  and 
ten  feet ;  it  has  four  large  windows  frobttng  east,  «cst» 
north  and  souUi,  adorned  with  architrave,  firiese,  cor- 
nice,  pediments,  &g.  of  the  Doric  order.  The  fovr 
pinnacles  aie  composed  of  altars  rarmonnted  by  piiifr* 
apples  and  vanes.  The  monuments  in  the  interior  of 
this  church  are  many ;  and  among  the  conaidevabk 
benefactions,  it  appears  that  the  Right  Honourable 
Lady  Hatton,  who  died  in  1645,  gave  500/.  to  re» 
main  in  stock  for  the  poor,  both  below  and  above  the 
Bars. 

Thb  church  is  very  spacious  and  pleasant;  the 
columns  supporting  the  roof  are  of  the  Corinthian 
order.  The  interior  is  finely  ornamented ;  between  the 
arches  of  the  roof,  and  especially  over  the  altar-pieoe^ 
the  omatnental  fret-work  is  beautiful.  Here  is  more 
excellent  wainscottingthan  in  most  other  churches,  behig 
twelve  feet  high  in  the  aisles,  and  eight  feet  above  the 
galleries  on  all  sides  of  the  church,  the  east  exoeptedk 
The  organ  gallery  is  supported  by  two  large  fluted 
wainscot  columns  of  the  Tuscan  order.  This  organ  ia 
ftimous  for  being  the  fine«ioned  instrument  rejected  in 
the  famous  contest  for  superiority  between  Father 
Sdimydt  and  Harris,  .at  the  Temple  chureh.  The 
altar-piece  is  very  spacious,  at  least  fifteen  feet  high 
of  wainscot  adorned  with  columns  and  pilasters  of'ihe 
Tuscan  order^  with  their  frieze,  cornice  and  peiiibeBt 
Ciirved,  and  four  lamps  with  tapers  over  the  four  middle 


and  pUaaten;  two  at  eacb  end  cf  the  pedi«» 
BMnt  aI^e  placed  oo  acrqlen;  and  under  them  are  thq 
CommaQdmenU,  with  the  Lord'«  Prayer  and  CreeA* 
eadi  within  Urge  frames  carved  and  gilt«  Over 
the  alur-piece  w  a  fine  window  of  stained  glaaib 
fcpreaeoiing  Tie  LaU  ikyiper,  and  above  it  The  A^ 
pencioii.  On  eacb  tide  are  paintings  of  St.  Peter  and 
St.  Andrew,  and  above  these,  representations  of  The 
Holy  K^miljr.  The  two  other  windows  at  U^  east  end 
art  «xquiaiteiy  stained ;  one  represents  the  arqas  of 
Johw  Thaive,  £k|.  the  other«  tho^  of  Queen  Anne. 
The  church  is  qaifonnly  pewed ;  the  pulpit,  a  cunous 
piece  of  wainscot  carving;  and  there  are  three  hani^ 
some  brandies.  The  wellrknown  party  tool.  Dr.  Sacb* 
everel,  the  adtocale  for  passive  obedience  and  non 
iWitaoce,  W9M  rector  of  this  cbnroh,  and  was  pi^Qiie* 
tuted  for  his  libels  by  the  House  of  Conun^ns,  ip  tb« 
year  1710. 

Sk0e-Ltne  is  a  leog  and  narrow  avenue  from  HdU 
bom  fo  Fket-Street.  On  the  >east  side  a  private 
hoose,  part  of  OUk^ume  H^U,  rfmains  between  Pl4|»« 
ttwe-CoMii  and  the  Workhouse.  The  ceiling  of  (hn 
fint  floor  is  very  curiously  carved.  Thi#  apaitqiaBt 
was  ktely  used  as  a  oacelspg  l^r  di^ntera,  a  Snndaf 

Nearly  op^tr  it^B^tigm^Cmn,  containing  a  builds 
ing  which  waa  the  palace  efihe  Bish^  4^  ^angi»r,  with 
eensiderable  grounds  adioining^  '  This  bouse  continned 
in  the  possession  of  the  prelates  till  the  year  1047*  The 
•aoteins  of  this  jsansion  •am  %  spechnen  of  the  modf  of 
boiUing  m  the  tiane  lef  Queen  Slisabnh. 

lettite  AiruN&re^i  contains  the  hMPfn  preniises»  niad 
as^a  piintang.«ftc^  &c»  of  Anditew  Siraban,  Eaq.tfi^ 
King's  AnBln^ 

Bi^afewng  to  Shotf^iaim^  we  dm  tn  <MnrM%» 
kngnoldlftr  hraheai  aodaiynpaiiitaVB.   4a>> 


154  WALKS  TUtOUOfl   LOHDON. 

from  it  to  Fleet-Street,  called  Pappin^i^ComN,  ilmdfoa 
the  site  of  an  ancient  mansion  called  Popingi^,  be- 
longing to  the  Abbot  of  Cirencester. 

Fltet-Strtet,  north  tide. — ^It  appears  from  Fabian  and 
others,  that  this  was  the  principal  part  of  the  Saxoo 
city ;  and  that,  in  Kiiig  Ethelred's  reign,  London  had 
more  building  from  Ludgate  towards  Westminster, 
and  little  or  none  where  the  chief  or  heart  of  the  city 
now  is.  This  might  have  arisen  from  the  incursions  of 
the  Danes,  as  the  gates  identify  the  more  ancient  city. 

Boii'Court  is  famous  for  having  been  the  residence  of 
Dr,  Samuel  Johnson.  In  Red  Lion-Court  is  the  printing^ 
house  of  Messrs.  Nichols  and  Bentley,  printers  of  the 
Gentleman's  Magazine,  See.  Mr.  J.  Nichols,  senioTi 
is  the  author  of  several  elaborate  works. 

Crmie^Comri,  the  upper  end  of  which  is  paved  with 
Mack  and  white  marble,  contains  the  house  appropriatdl 
to  the  use  of  the  Scottish  corporation.  This  may  be 
justly  termed  an  Hospital  of  Qui  Patiewu,  the  ot^ecu 
being  supported  and  relieved  by  weekly,  monthly,  and 
quarterly  allowances  of  money,  and  with  medical  aasia- 
tance  and  advice  at  their  own  habitations,  or  they  are 
even  enabled,  if  they  chuse  it,  to  return  to  their  dwn 
eountiy  by  sea.  The  hall  room  is  of  the  Ionic  order. 
Over  the  chimney  is  a'  bust  of  Charles  the  Second. 
On  the  south  wall  is  a  whole-length  of  Mary,  Queen  of 
Scots,  a  painting  most  beautifully  executed :  the  face 
is  exquisite,  and  the  features  delicate  and  finely  pro- 
portioned. 

From  Flower-de-Luce  Court  there  is  an  entrance  into 
Crane-Court,  where  north  of  the  hall  belonging  to 
the  Scottish  Hospital,  a  large  room  ia  now  occupiedby 
l%e  Pkihsopkietd  Society  i^Londom,  who  meet  once  a 
week  for  public  lectures,  converBatton,and  disanssions  on 
varieua  branches  of  natural  and  experimental  philo* 
feephy.    Tbia  institution  owes  its  origin  to  Mr.  Petti* 


WALKS  TR«pUGB   LONDON.  155 

^-gremt  its  secretary*  and  can  boast  of  some  very 
eminent  characters  as  its  merobers,  and  the  patronage 
of  the  Dukes  of  Kent  and  Sussex. 

The  great  Fire  of  London  ceased  in  this  direction,  at 
an  ancient  house  above  Fetter*Lane. 

Near  Fetter«Lane  is  the  parish  church  of  Si.  Dun- 
tia»  in  the  Wni. — ^The  present  fabric  is  supposed  to 
be  upwards  of  four  hundred  years  old ;  having  escaped 
the  Fire  of  London,  it  was  repaired  in  1701,  and  a 
handsome  square  roof  built  instead  of  the  old  one, 
which  was  arched,  the  windows,  &c.  added.  The  roof 
or  ceiling  of  the  interior  is  adorned  with  a  spacious 
quadrangle  of  deep  mouldings,  crocket-work,  an 
dipsis,  roses,  &c.  of  fret-work :  there  are  galleries  on 
the  north,  west,  and  south  sides,  with  a  fine  organ ;  and 
the  church  is  well  pewed  with  oak.  The  altar-pieoe 
consists  of  two  cohinins  of  the  Ionic  order,  with  painted 
cherubim,  over  which  is  a  cornice,  aod  in  the  middle 
•a  globe  between  two  bibles,  denoting  the  wonderful 
spreading  of  the  pure  gospel.  In  the  east  window  Is  a 
figure  of  St  Matthias,  in  stained  glass. 

On  the  outside  of  this  church,  within  a  niche  and 
pediment  at  the  south-west  end,  over  the  clock,  are 
two  figures  of  savages,  or  wild  men,  carved  in  wood, 
and  painted  in  their  natural  colours,  as  large  as  life, 
staoding  erect,  each  having  a  knotty  club  in  his  hand ; 
with  this  they  alternately  strike  the  quarters,  not  only 
•their  arms,  but  even  therr  heads  moving  at  every  blow : 
they  are  so  placed  as  to  be  perfectly  visible  to  the  pas- 
sengers on  the  south  side  of  the  street,  and  are  almost 
every  hour  in  the  day  a  source  of  considerable  amuse- 
ment to  poisengers. 

In  October,  ITW,  the  itatoe  of  Queen  Elizabelli, 

that  formerly  stood  on  the  west  side  of  Ludgate,  was 

•  pot  up  at  the  east  end  of  this  church ;  and  the  vestry* 

■room  of  the  church  is  alM>  ornamented  with  a  fine 

poitrait  of  that,  queen  upon  painted  -glass*    There  ave 


140  V4ii«»  TupiHm  'i-ain^M. 

$,  i9^n^  of  4DQiuKiiei|0  .mtbi*  edifice  :pell  mxOfa^ 

Nearly  adjacent  is  JCliJfQr4'9  Inn^  t\i^  ap<:ien|  flefjr 
4eiM>«  of  t)ie  bopp«ci|»l^  faniily  cf  th^  Pe  CH^jqrds. 
This  Inn  has  three  «ottrt^  a^d  «  pl^a^nf  g^UBfin, 
.V)i0pce  a  gMewaj  le»^  jfito  Fe^ef^I^e,  ivihif^i  con* 
4»ips  three  pUices  of  wfinliip  of  4ifiec^t  p^inq^iHiii 
W<  a  iiHieting^boiite  lor  {nd^p^nd^t^  MOolb«r  (m 
MfH^piia^  ^^i  thc^hnpd  pf  the  Vnitffi  Sr^lkr^,  DT 

4n  a  {house,  lulea  fisbin9?|tafiU^iin^)Bm*'-4«  wbiphlqofcs 
intP  Fetter-^Lan^  fkod  lUower  4^  I^iice-^Coqit,  livpd 
Jgliz^betli  Brownriggr,  ^ho  ■ias^90$:ut|sd  i»  1767#  A«r 
4be  lOHirder  ^f  her  appK^ntioe  M^ry  <:iif&H»  wb<W 
ifj^  A»iifioed  in  ac^^r,  and  <t9»al«d  with  miselmiiiog 
<Mli|l4f J  tihe  fratittg  ffpod  mbi«b  thp  ^iei  <|f  llws  fmr 
liibild issued  is  mi  tb^  aide  qf.^ffmf^-Uv^^XlwfU 

t(mmarfi'!$  Imh  tat  the  nt^-^m  i^itn&mity  of  FaHas- 
Imf^  mBA  f^figinfilf  depqmifiatod  4l#«^kvfpr^#  iim, 
imiBg  be^n  the  veMdenee  qf  Qr.  fJqbn  Mackvofth* 
Dean  of  LincolQ^intbedrDign  nf  fl^nnytfte  Sixth;. bring 
flMMd  ^flvwards  b/agieiitbinaii  iMMned  l4Qpel:9ar- 
4Mrd«  i|:<Qbtained  bisinpme. 

Xifsijit  Ywrd,  pow  Ca^^^Stfueis  m  1610,  ym  the 
ffHidffnAe  .0f  Tl|0fl9»s  ^waid«  Eat}  of  ^vwidei,  Ifae 
•ii^tof  bif  poupir^imn  whp  iatrodiml  unifwAiiflr^f 
JIniildittg  iatp  Ei^lapd. 

JSf0ph  Ifm  wf^^  culled  finpm  baring  )Mm  a  Ml 

itfif^  ata^ujteii  Mog  iop)e  of  ihe  4wr  atapl^  ci99mfh 
4j|^  iof  this  country.  TWa  inn  jq^quwt^  pf  (kiri^  cfiiffta 
kept  very  clean,  and  a  small  but  ple9«^  ganAen*  Ilbia 
jma  .ft  ne^fpiMgp  9r  In«  of  ^afMnr^  ^ia^Mrly  9a  the 
y«ar.^41|. 

W0  mw  uppfofMsh  Ibe  miwifletoaHed  Middi(BfBM|r« 
Ai^lbofp,  ^  $p|^f»^>^N»  BaildingVf  wfeich  lYnmda 
«i  j^ilhr  upvigj|^tXbffW^Wd<)tlMrt(y»£atLQC£onl^- 


wxutB  nmouGH  to«moir.  fSt 

tAtptdh,  Wfaote  datrgl^ter  irfts  itie  tftni«b1e  coosott  of 
ttfreqtialiy-rirttroirs  Wilfiimi  Lord  Rttssel^both  oftb^m 
tte  gfory  And  4i^me  of  the  tige  they  lived  in.  In  these 
builidiTYg;»  is  the  office  of  the  Masters  of  Chancery. 

Proceeding  to  Chancefy-Lane,  the  first  building;  6n 
the  fight  hand  \9  tHuf&dtTi  Fm.  TAis  h  otae  of  thepHn- 
dpal  innt  of  Court ;  iMid  Henry  de  Lacy,  Ear!  of  Lfdr- 
co!n,  who  made  ft  his  town  restdente,  is  said  to  haTe 
lAtroiluced  indents  of  the  law  here  about  the  yttfr 
rSno.  Tttt  hall  was  built  anno  1506.  Over  the 
gAtew:iy  to  Cariry-Street  are  the  arms  of  the  inn,  anA 
tflose  of  dearie.  A  fountam,  now  drsused,  is  in  iS^ 
nndsi  of  the  squihre,  consisthig  of  a  faandsoofe  Corin« 
thhin  *eohnnn,  by  Inigo  Jon«s  ;  the  top  stipportcd  ^ 
fon  diaf,  and  at  the  four  corned  of  the  pedestal,  tritona 
fpOQted  water  from  their  shdk. 

LirrcolnV  fnii,  apon  the  whole,  forms  a  great  qua- 
drtngfe,  oMnrposed  of  the  gate-house,  the  hall  on  the 
weftl  Bide,  tfbe  'eha^l  on  the  north,  and  sereral  diant* 
hteta  t>n  the  ^oMt.  The  gate  hi  Chancery-Lane  is 
HaAled  by  two  t^oare  projectmns  or  towers;  btft  as 
dhAost  M  the  windows  hare  been  modernized,  tlie 
renerable  charader  of  the  structure  has  been  greatly 
injured.  Ttte  hall,  as  j^een  tlrrough  the  arch  from 
Chancery-Lane,  bas  the  appearance  of  a  monastfe 
banding,  oceasioned  by  the  bottresses  and  pointdl 
iHhdoiirs ;  and  this  ettct  is  Improved  by  the  side  df 
the  cbapd  elevated  on  mt  open  crypt  df  thnee  arches, 
sepiiraced  by  buttresses  of  six  gradations,  wifh  lat^ 
windows  filled  by  painted  ghss.  The  arehes  of  tS^' 
doi^rs  are  richly  covered  with  tracery,  qnafrefoils, 
and  geometrical  %crres,  in  the  manner  of  Henry  th6 
Seventh's  Chapel,  and  are  correct  imitations  Of  oof 
ancient  Hoiid  style*  This  diapel  was  fthishell  )ttiA 
copsecrated  in  the  year  1G23.  Here  Ben  Jonson,  in  his 
yOQtigeir  yM%  worked  wil^  Ma  th:^weL  In  17^1  It  was 


158  Walks  thkougb  london. 

repaired  and  beautified,  under  the  inspection  of  Mr. 
Wyatt.  The  society  appoint  a  preacher  and  a  chap- 
lain ;  and  divine  service  is  cdebrated  6n  Sundays  aod 
holydays.  The  following  are  among  the  paintings  in 
the  windows  of  this  chapel : 

The  first  window  on  the  nerth-west  side  representa 
Abraham,  with  his  hand  resting  on  the  head  of  his  son 
Isaac. — II.  The  effigies  of  Moses,  and  in  his  hands  the 
two  tables,  neatly  written  at  large. — IIL  The  figure  of 
St  John  Baptist— IV.  St,  Paul.--In  the  middle  win- 
dow on  the  north  side,  in  the  first  light  eastward,  is 
the  figure  of  Jeremiah,  with  a  staff  in  the  right  and 
a  bottle  in  the  left  hand.  In  the  second  light  is  Ezekid 
in  the  habit  of  a  priest,  with  a  church  in  his  hand.  In 
the  third  the  Prophet  Amos,  in  a  shepherd's  habit.  In 
the  fourth,  Zacharias  the  Prophet  The  other  windows 
contain  David  playing  on  the  Harp;  the  Prophet 
Daniel;  Eli  the  Prophet  holding  a  sword,  pointing 
tpwards  the  horizon;  Esaias  holding  a  book  in  his 
right  hand,  and  in  his  left  a  saw ;  St  Peter  with  a  key 
in  his  right  hand;  St  Andrew ;  St  Jamea  the  Great; 
St  John  the  Apostle  and  Evangelist;  St.  Philip  with  a 
crqas  in  his  right  and  a  book  in  his  left  hand;  St. 
Bartholomew;  St.  Matthew;  St.  Thomas;  St  James  the 
Less;  St  Simon;  St.  Judas  holding  a  book  closed, 
Mid  St  Matthias. — ^The  small  lights  above  are  re- 
plenished with  variety  of  other  figures  depicted  oa 
the  glass  made  in  the  intersections  of  the  arches  of  the 
muUions.  The  west  window  contains  several  coats  of 
arms  of  Henry  de  Lacy,  Earl  of  Lincolo,  &c* 

7^  Hall,  erected  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the  Seventh^ 
is  sixty-two  feet  in  length,  and  thirty-two  in  breadth; 
but  has  little  to  recommend  it  excepting  the  painting  .of 
Paul  before  Felix,  by  Hogarth,  placed  theie  about 
17W. 

&oiie  Buildingi,  so  called  from  the  material  with 


WAJ.K8  THBOUOH  LONDON.  169 

wfaidi  tbey  are  oonstnicted,  are  situated  parallel  with 
the  west  side  of  the  Six  Clerks  and  Register's  Office^ 
whose  principal  front  is  Chancer  j- Lane.  These  build* 
ings  are  only  part  of  a  vast  range  pr<gected  by  the 
society,  and  designed  by  Sir  Robert  Taylor,  but  never 
completed.  The  garden  front  consists  at  present  of  a 
rustic  basement  with  arcades  and  windows^  with  a 
wing  at  the  north  en()»  formed  of  six  Corinthian 
pillar)!,  which  support  an  entablature  and  pediment 
The  cornice  of  the  wing  is  Continued  along  the  whole 
length  of  the  front,  which  terminates  in  a  balustrade; 
but  the  two  ranges  of  windows  are  entirely  plain; 
though,  when  viewed  through  the  foliage  of  the  garden, 
and  the  long  line  being  thus  broken  by  the  intenrco^ 
tion  of  trees,  the  whole  has  a  very  pleasing  efiect,  par* 
tkoUrly  from  Serle's  Courts 

SerU^s  Courts  or  New  Square,  stands  on  what  was 
originally  called  Ficquet*i  Field,  or  Little  Lincoln's  Inn 
Fiek).  It  i^peared  that  Henry  Serle,  Esq.  and  a 
person  named  Clerk,  hsd  some  clainps,  which  were 
settled  by  an  agreement,  dated  in  the  thirty-fourth 
year  of  Charles  the  Second,  which  fixing  the  property 
of  the  parties,  Mr.  Serle  was  permitted  to  build  on  the 
fiekL 

Tke  Onmcil  Chamber  of  Lincoln's  Inp  is  a  very 
handsome  apartment.  The  Library  on  the  gproimd 
floor  of  Stone  Buildings  contains  above  eight  thousand 
Tolames,  deposited  in  four  rooms,  to  increase  which, 
each  master  of  the  bench  contributes,  eleven  guineas, 
and  every  sjtudent,  when  called  to  the  bar,  five  poinds* 
)t  is  open  to  the  members  of  the  society  from  ten 
o'dock  till  two.  Here! is  a  marble  bust  of  Cicero^ 
several  landscapes  and  portraits^  with  many  picture^, 
by  Italian  masters,  and  some  drawings. 
J  '  The  Six  Cierk'i  Office  is  a  ^cious  stone  building  on 
the  west  side  of  Chancery-Laisie.,  The  esLterior  of  the 
present  edifice  presents  a  solid  and  substantial  aspect 


IM  WHlKt  1«ft(HKHI  l;01ll>«ir» 

Ifce  bmkittt  df  tbefle  clerks  it  to  read  in  court,  fccfcit 
the  Lord  Keeper,  m  term  time,  patents,  ptrdoot,  te. ; 
wnA  for  causes  dependinf  in  the  Chmcerj  Coort,  tktj 
we  attomies,  for  the  pHiintiflB  or  tkfendaiito. 

OtriJIor-SirreM  contatm  nothing  remaritable. 

Sym&md*$  fim  is  not  a  regular  inn  of  Court,  bot  wat 
MH  by  a  gentleman  of  the  name  of  Symonds  iiboiit 
flr»  centuries  since,  for  the  casual  accommodation  of 
Sfastem  in  Chaivcery,  auditors,  and  attomies.  Here  ia 
the  effiee  for  iasuing  rales  of  court,  and  that  for  tbe 
^deikoffhe  papen. 

T%€  RoiU  w  so  called  from  being  a  repository  for  ai 
hXU  in  Chancery,  and  other  records,  since  the  year 
ms. — This  was  erigiuBlly  a  house  intended  for  Jewisft 
ooM^erts  to  Christianity,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the 
Third ;  but  as  it  appears  the  design  did  not  succeed, 
the  house  was  given,  by  Edward  the  Third,  to  WilNanl 
Burstall,  Clerk,  the  first  Master  of  the  Rolls.  Tlie 
thiqN^  which  remains  is  an  ancient  strucfture,  buik  of 
tMrtek,  boulder,  and  some  free  slone;  Ibe  doors  and 
iv'indows  Gothic;  the  ro6f  covered  with  iHtez  the 
amament  of  the  presses  for  Ibe  rofls,  in  the  iirterior  of 
ttie  building,  is  columns  and  pilasters  of  Ibe  Ionic  and 
Composite  orders.  This  chapel  contains  a  few  andent 
laenuments. 

The  L^erty  tofihe  Ralli  is«  distrMexempt  from  tbe 
power  of  tbe  Sheriff  of  Middlesex,  or  other  officer, 
except  by  leave  of  tbe  Mailer.  It  commences  at  tfai 
comer  of  QirsitoT'Sti^eet,  next  to  Cbaiicery-Laoe, 
tiAnng  in  tbe  Rose  Wrne  Vaiirlts ;  where  it  crosses'  into 
White's  Alley,  wbiifcb  it  wholly  tsOees  In,  exceptbig  two 
str  three  bouses  on  eadi  aide  next  Fetter-l«ne;  and 
there  ft  crosses  into  tbe  RollS  Garden,  which  it  like^ 
wise  takes  in ;  from  ihence,  running  into  Chancery<» 
Lane  by  Seijetnt's  fnn,  it  crosses  4o  Bell  Vard,  wbich 
it  tabes  in  ahuost  to  He^^Stereet,  'exceptmg  a  few 
bouaes  at  the  back  of  Chnrn^^Cooft,  which  is  in  Iba 


■  T-  ■:-  ■.■VYo;;<  ^ 
FUELIC  LIBRARY^ 


A.  T,-M,  LENOX 


City  Liberty :  it  then  rupi  acrosd.tb^  hQ^tis  t9  $birr- 
lane*  taking  in  alt  the  esi#t  side  >  and  again  croaM^g 
over  to  Lincoln's  Inn  New  Sguare.  nma  to  the  punp 

*  ' .  '  .1-1  v"   •'*  t.  •  -J  •.  -N  KM,:   . 

.;,,•!    )«     H  ♦••'    .1'    t      '  ■*•  •  •  ' 

-r         l     •         '     ••       •'■;   '  .        '^k  ,•  .!' 

»V  ■:.!      '  '  .'  I.  t  .  . 

!    •      •  .  '•  ]      ' .  ■  ••  1 


i*  t 


.fst   bi   ;   I 'Mr.  .  «    'i«f  .*■  .         1     Wi 

M 


City  Libe?ty :  it  then  rqn*  acros».tb£  bQ^tis  to  $birr- 
liAiie.  taking  in  «ll  the  east  M^ ;  ^ind  9g»in  crosHDg 
over  to  Lincoln's  Inn  New  Square,  ruf)B  tp  the  pump 
at  the  corner  of  the  garden,  whence  it  crosses  to  where 
it  coinntenced  at  Cursiior'Strtet. 

Setjioni'M  Jtm,  ponsifiting  of  tw«  amall  courts^  fotfi* 
municates  vith  CliflTordtt  Ion  and  Chaoeery-Lant, 
and  is  surrounded  by  the  Judges  Chambers,  wbick 
are  spacious  and  handsome.  The  hall  is  of  brick» 
with  stone  coraiccB  find  handsome  ptdjiDept,  §\ir- 
mauiiled  by  a  turret  and  a  clodu  The  ^indow#  9jtf 
filled  wit)i  armariai  beanngs  i>f .  tkoae  wfao.li^e  tlMV 
fiembers. 

-  Entering  Fleet-Stneet  «e  icome  to  SiirgrLtM^  §f 
e^led  becavsp  «t  divided  the  eity  frow  iim  %hirp  Qt 
OMmty  of  Middlesex  x  it  was  jJso  an  avepMr  t^  FlCr 
^•ei's  Fiejd. 

1  The  westward  boundary  of  tlie  city  ef  LoitdM 
and  its  liberty,  as  Temple  Bwr,  Thif  i#  estceoifd  A 
Tcry  haodsome  gate,  {vhere  formerly  pests,  raiist  ;Md 
a^fcoifi  only,  terminated  tbe  eity  lM>Miida,:as  aUiil^ 
IkibofD,  SmttUkid,  and  Whkechapal  fiaiia*  Afl^ri, 
wntdaa  bouse  oi  tiQri»er  was  ^ececiad  accoas  the  Hff^U 
wMi  a  warvow  gakievay  and  sontliertti  posters^  Xlw 
Fire  of  London,  howeyer,  having  iotrodacedaayiatMnl 
of  order  and  magnificence  in  the  public  buildings* 
Temple  Bar  ofllered  an  object  for  the  exercise  of  Sir 
Christopher  Wren's  abilities.  The  centre  is  a  broad 
gateway,  suflBcient  for  the  passing  of  two  carriages; 
Uie  sides  are  furnished  with  convenient  posterns  for 
foot  passengers*  The  wbo)^  4S4MMistructed  of  PprtUiid 
stone,  with  a  rustic  basement,  surmounted  by  tbe 
Corinthian  order.  Over  the  gateway  on  the  east  side 
two  niches  contain  the  statues  of  Queen  Elizabeth  and 
James  the  First,  with  the  arms  of  England  over  the 
key-stone.  On  the  west  side  are  the  statues  of  Charles 
the  First  and  Charles  the  Second,  in  Roman  habits. 

M 


1G0  WALKS  THItOUGH   LONDOiT. 

They  are  all  the  work  of  Bushnel.  On  the  east  side 
was  an  inscription/  now  nearly  obliterated,  to  the  fol- 
lowing purport 

"  Erected  in  the  year  1670,  Sir  Samuel  Starling, 
Mayor ;  continued  in  the  year  1671,  Sir  Richaid  Ford, 
Lord  Mayor;  and  finished  in  the  year  1672,  Sir 
George  Waterman,  Lord  Mayor." 

This  gate,  on  account  of  its  publicity,  was  made  a 
place  of  exposure  for  the  heads  of  traitors,  who  had 
forfeited  their  lives  to  the  laws  of  their  country.  It  has 
also  long  been  the  place  at  which  the  city  magistracy 
receive  the  royal  family,  and  other  distinguished  visi- 
tors, on  solemn  occasions :  the  Lord  Mayor,  as  Sling's 
Lieutenant,  delivers  the  sword  of  state  to  the  sovereign 
when  he  enters  the  city,  which  his  majesty  returns. 
He  is  then  preceded  by  the  magistracy  bare-headed, 
the  Lord  Mayor,  by  right  of  his  office,  riding  on  horse- 
back, immediately  before  the  king. — ^Temple  Bar,  how* 
ever,  has  been  voted  by  the  city  to  be  removed,  to  opte 
a  more  commodious  communication  with  the  city  and 
liberty  of  Westminster,  at  the  suggestion,  and  through 
the  endeavours  of  William  Picket,  Esq.  Alderman,  and 
Lord  Mayor  in  the  year  1790. 


End  qf  the  Walks  including  London  and  iu  Libertia. 


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..  s  i*yw*\  ntliii'4  or. ! 
%,     ,  I  ••^< — TcD'i:  n.jr  Ik.v- 

-  cai.'ji:    »  -.'i  tilt*  <"i  •    .  •• 
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V    iijo^    p'.ii. 


»■'•:.•.  I.  *:      !•  '.I    I     i.    Vsl  '.     1 

•-;  >*      >i*.'  J«"    'i^'iU  of  «»ir«.ct*,  ••  •'  •   .  •     :«   t  '•.»■»«  Mil 
♦•l   .  •.  ,   :[".*  \  .'.I*,     i  ai....<  .,'  l.(  :i('  . 


J  .•  ij-. 


I 


•a-j,      .ill   T'  -}.' fl    lo    tia     i:?*-'    ".    ; 


WALKS  THROUGH   LONDON.  16S 


WALK  XII. 

From  Temple  Bar  along  Picket -Street,  the  Strand, 
Somerset  Hoiae,  the  Savoy,  tlte  Adelphi,  Charing 
Cross,  Whitehall  to  Parliament-Street,  Westminster^ 
Bridge,  Palace  Yard,  Ahingdon-Street,  Millbank, 
Tothill-Street,  and  Westmifister. 

To  form  adequate  ideas  of  the  improvements  made 
between  Temple  Bar  and  the  neighbourhood  adjacent 
to  St.  Clement's  Church,  according  to  Alderman 
Picket's  plan,  it  would  be  necessary  to  have  known  the 
spot  before  they  took  place.  ''  A  stranger,"  it  has 
been  observed,  **  who  had  visited  London  in  1790, 
would,  on  his  return  in  1815,  be  astonished  to  find  a 
spacious  area,  with  the  church  nearly  in  the  centre, 
on  the  site  of  Butcher-Row,  and  some  other  passages, 
undeserving  the  name  of  streets,  which  were  composed 
of  wretched  fabrics  overhanging  their  foundations,  the 
receptacles  of  filth  in  every  corner  of  their  projectingf 
stories,  the  bane  of  ancient  London,  where  the  plague, 
with  all  its  attendant  horrors,  frowned  destruction  on  the 
miserable  inhabitants,  reserving  its  force  for  the  ai- 
tada  of  each  returning  summer.  He  that  now  passes 
St  Clement's  area,  and  is  not  grateful  to  the  men  who 
planned,  and  the  parliament  who  permitted  theremo- 
val  of  such  streets  and  habitations,  deserves  to  reside  in 
a  lazaretto." 

The  stack  of  buildings  that  lately  occupied  the  spot 
which  now^  forms  a  wide  opening  on  the  west  side  of 
Temple  Bar,  was,  with  respect  to  the  ground  plan, 
in  the  form  of  an  obtuse  angular  triangle ;  the  eastern 
line  formed  by  a  shoemaker's,  a  fishmonger's,  and 
another  shop,  with  wide  extended  fronts ;   and  its 


IM  WALKS  TUBOUOH   LORDOli. 

western  point  blunted  by  the  intersection  of  tlie 
try-room  and  alms-houses  of  St.  Clement's  parish :  od 
both  sides  of  the  way  were  sbopis  of  various  descrip- 
tions,  as  bakers,  dyers,  smiths,  tin-plate  workers,  comb 
makers,  he. 

Butcker-Rcuf  was,  as  its  name  implied,  a  flesh  market, 
flfnd  bad  been  so  in  a  much  greater  degree  in  the  reign 
of  Queen  Elizabeth.  Many  persons  can  remember  a 
scalemaker's,  a  tinman's,  fine  drawers,  Betty's  Cbop- 
house,  cheesemongers,  grocers,  &c  :  the  houses  of  the 
whole  stack  were  originaHy  of  wood,  and  seemed  to 
have  been  built  about  the  age  of  Edward  the  Sixth. 
The  ceilings  ^f  many  of  these  apartments  were  low, 
tratisversed  by  1arg«  unwrought  beams  in  diflerent 
directions,  and  lighted,  or  rather  darkened,  by  sttiall 
casement  windows. 

Instead  of  these  streets,  ]am»,  and  alleys,  which  once 
hovered  round>  and  in  a  manner  concealed  St.  Cle» 
ment's  Church,  and  obstructed  the  passage  between 
Fleet«Street  and  the  Strand,  this  edifice  is  now  sm>> 
rMinded  by  an  oval  railing.  The  north  sidefwrmsa 
Scttii-cbKile ;  and  at  the  entrance  of  Cement's  Imw  Hie 
Coipomtion  of  London  have  erected  a  gateway  of 
itupendMis  architecture,  to  which  are  added  the  new 
vMry-room  ;md  alms-houses  of  the  parish,  all  re^iH 
it  the  expense  of  the  city.  The  south  side  of  the 
Strand  here  Is  also  rc^ilt  wi^  handsome  lofty  dwdl* 
ings,  contaimng  capacious  shops. 
'  It  is  undeniable  that  this  crowded  yicmity  was,  no 
longer  since  than  the  reign  of  Edward  the  Sacth,  **  i 
loosely-built  street ;"  Ihe  houses  on  the  south  side  were 
lUmished  with  Extensive  gardens,  which  at  present 
give  kiames  to  vaiioNis  streets,  fitom  their  several  owners. 
'  Pi^^atC'^Odurt  is  so  named,  in  rememhrahce  of 
l^redenck  the  Fififa,  Elector  and  Comit  Paktine  of  the 
BhonCi  the  fanilband  of  Elizabeth/  eUeilt  daughler^ 


J^BM  the  Pint,  itrho  tras  chosen  King  of  Boheitiia^ 
bat  lost  that  kingdom  and  his  electorate  in  an  unequal 
conpelStion  with  the  £iii]peror  Ferdinand..  The  Pfin- 
oeas  Sophia^  youngest  daughter  of  this  Fredericki  anA 
Elizabeth,  widow  of  Prince  Ernest,  Duke  of  Brunswick 
Lunenburg,  and  Elector  of  Hanover^  was  dedared,  bj 
act  of  parliament  in  the  reign  of  Wiliiaaa  the  Thirds 
in  fhihire  of  the  issue  of  the  Princess,  afterwahls  Queaii 
Anne, .  the  next  successor  in  the  Proiest&nt  line  to  diQ 
crown  of  England.  His  Majesty  Qeorge  the  Third 
is  her  heir  in  the  fourth  generation. 

Devereux  Court  has  a  passage  to  Essex  Court,  in  the 
Temple ;  the  former  being  the  fkmily  name  of  Queen 
Elizabeth's  unfortunate  favourite. 

Essex^Streei,  a  little  further  on,  stands  on  the  site  of 
the  residence  of  Robert  Devereux,  Earl  of  Essex :  but 
though  this  house  was  occupied  by  the  Earl  of  Essex, 
the  Parliament  General,  during  the  iniertegnum,  it 
became  neglected,  and  was  appropriated  to  various 
uses.  The  part  of  it  remaining,  after*  {laving  been  an 
action  room,  has  of  late  been  a  chapel  for  th^  Use  of 
those  who  profess  Unitarian  principles,  as  it  still  con<^ 
tinues.  The  Unitarians,  though  they  coiistitute  a 
branch  of  Socinianbm,  do  not  admit  of  all  its  doCtrin^ 
A  copious  account  of  these  people  is  given  in  Undse^B 
HtHoricot  View  q/*  Unitariamwi, — The  Rev.  Mr. 
Undsey  was  the  resident  chaplain  at  this  place,  and 
gave  up  the  valuable  living  of  Catterick,  in  Yorkshire^ 
fh>m  motives  of  conscience.  Having  retired,  he  was 
succeeded  by  the  Rev.  Thbmas  Belsham,  a  considerable 
time  previous  to  bis  decease. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Strand,  in  Ship  Yard,  is  a 
stately  house  of  the  time  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  which  Mr. 
Hokf  seems  to  think  was  afterwards  the  Ship  Tavern* 

Crown  Court  look  its  name  from  the  Crown  Tavern^, 
aituited  oq  ita  site. 


166  WALKft  THEOUGH    LONDOV. 

Cnmn  Place  stands  upon  the  plot  of  the  Bisbop't 
house  and  garden. 

A  handsome  archway  on  the  north  side  of  Picket- 
Street,  leads  to  Clement's  Inn.  Here  the  hall,  and 
several  handsome  chambers,  form  three  courts,  through 
vhich,  in  the  day  time,  is  a  passage  to  Clare  Market 
and  to  New  Inn,  when  the  gates  are  open.  The  figure 
of  a  naked  Moor,  in  the  garden,  supporting  a  sun  dial> 
presented  to  the  society  by  Lord  Holies,  occasioned  the 
following  sarcastic  effusion : 

Id  Taio  poor  table  md  of  woe 

Tbou  seek'ii  the  tender  tear  ; 
For  tbee  io  Tain  with  pangs  they  flow^ 

For  Mcrcj  dwelk  not  here. 

From  Cannibals  thou  fledst  in  faio. 

Lawyers  less  quarter  give  ; 
The  Jlrst  won't  eat  yon  till  yoa*re  tkiim. 

The  itut  wUl  do*t  alive  I 

A  pump  now  covers  St.  dementis  Well,  which 
during  the  times  of  Popish  superstition,  was  much 
resorted  to,  being  supposed  capable  of  curing  cuts* 
oeous  and  other  disorders. 

Facing  St  Clemenfft  Lane,  and  in  the  middle  of  the 
high  street,  stands  the  church  of  St,  Clement  Danes, — 
Though  the  origin  of  this  appellation  is  involved  in 
some  obscurity,  it  seems  certain  that  a  church  was 
founded  here  eight  hundred  years  ago :  however,  the 
present  edifice  was  built  in  the  year  1680,  the  old 
church  being  then  greatly  decayed,  ''  Sir  Christopher 
Wren,  his  Majesty's  Surveyor,  freely  and  generously 
bestowing  his  great  care  and  skill  towards  the  contriving 
and  building  of  iU"  The  present  church  is  a  very 
handsome  structure  of  the  Corinthian  order,  built 
entirely  of  stone :  the  body  is  enlightened  by  two  aeries 


//^ 


{.:     '      •.    I  Mf. 


♦   *  •     "         '.  •        I    *  .      /  -« 

m 

:f<«j  i:    I  ■%  »   '  «i<>     • 

.'1.      Jii.'     111'.'   .'11    ^    ill*  >»%t/'       A 

?'.'.<  u    U  •:•   r    *:\^t.';u    »     ■ 

I  I.*  n-if    /   •.  ••»      r.  ,■»«    '«H»\*'  "f 

'  •'♦     V  -»,   »  .  .       mj    I  'I    yi    »    <  \*i ».    !♦       *    ♦ 

•  '    '••.  v  '•-''*•%'»*  'I.       J^  '*     *    ■-'  » f     •• 

1  >  '•*   r;«M'*. :,  •  i        »    <.     %.»•    m»^i. 

•-     •    .•  •  ..-u' .<..;. jj.r     ,t\    I  .•  ..!< '.i|«     ......^ 

aim  uuiiding  ot  iU"  xne  present  church  is  a  very 
handsome  structure  of  the  Corinthian  order^  built 
entirely  of  stone :  the  body  is  enlightened  by  two  series 


rULLlFuBT 


1    ©8.H  rvH^H^TjT 


WALKS  THBOUGB  LONDON.  167 

of  windows,  the  lower  plain,  the  upper  embellished^ 
terminating  in  an  attic,  with  pilasters  crowned  with 
vases.  The  entrance  on  the  south  side  is  by  a  portico, 
and  the  ascent  of  a  few  steps,,  covered  with  a  dome 
mpported  bj  six  Ionic  columns. 

On  each  side  tl|e  base  of  the  steeple  in  the  west  front 
is  a  small  equate  tower,  with  a  dome  over  the  stairs  to 
the  galleries.  The  steeple,  which  was  not  added  till 
1719,  is  carried  to  a  great  height  in  several  stages; 
where  it  begins  to  diminish,  the  Ionic  order  takes 
pbce,  and  its  entablature  supports  vases.  The  next  stage 
is  of  the  Corinthian  order,  and  above  that  stands  the 
Composite,  supporting  a  dome,  which  is  crowned  with 
a  smaller,  whence  rises  the  ball  and  a  vane.  The  tower 
contains  eight  tiells  and  chimes. 

The  roof  of  the  interior  is  camerated  and  supported 
with  neat  wood  columns  of  the  Corinthian  order,  plen* 
tifullj  enriched  with  fret*work,  hot  especially  the 
chancel,  with  cherubim,  palm  branches,  shields,  &c.  and 
six  pilasters.  The  arms  of  England  are  also  in  fret- 
work, painted.  This  church  is  well  wainscotted,  and 
.the  pillars  cased  op  to  the  galleries.  On  the  front  of 
the  south  gallery,  the  arms  of  the  Dukes  of  Norfolk  and 
the  Earls  of  Arundel  and  Salisbury,  formerly  inhabi- 
ftots  of  the  parish,  are  carved  and  painted.  The  pulpit 
is  of  oak,  carved  and  enriched  with  cherubim,  anchors^ 
bnnchea  of  palm,  festoons,  fine  veneering,  &c.  The 
body  of  the  church  is  uniform  and  well  pewed,  and 
has  three  wainscot  inner  doer-cases. 

The  altar-piece  is  carved  wainscot  of  the  Tuscan 
order :  the  chancel  is  paved  with  marble,  and  the 
qteriures  are  wdl  placed,  exactly  corresponding  with 
each  other,  on  the  north  and  south  sides. 

Among  the  eminent  rectors  of  this  church  is  George 
Beiidey,  L.L.D.  who  died  in  1795,  and  lea  ample 
tcMlmony  that  he  waa  the  amiable  son  of  the  iUustriona 


M9  WAtu  tH«MM  lomioifk' 

pfelftt^,  llfehdp  B»i%<!ley>  t6  WbMl  Pdpe  ftttribttdi 
*  et^ty  yiHu<!  jitk&et  htovai/' 

K«tUrAing  tbfough  the  afclkwfty  of  ttie  new  buildlifgi 
#i6'tMiile  to  Little  8t)n>e*Uane,  «tKi  thit  NtU)-Camt :  ttM 
latter  contains  an  IndepMkdetlt  Mm(ng  Hobee,  Wbtdl 
had  for  hXA  paetdts'yLt,  Daniel  Bitf|^^  Mr;  TtmMas 
Bhtdbury,  sitid  Mr.  RielMird  WiMii#;  alt  eailnmt 
preaehet^.  Hene«  eroasitig  Car^ -street^  tbe  avtiMlls 
^r  Seth^ireet  ItkdB  10  Liktain't-hkn  Fields.  Tbii  Si 
illoWed  tb  be  the  Ur^fc  and  mM,  beauiiaif  s<|uaM  In 
Lot^dorf,  if  not  in  Europe.  It  was  fbrmeriy  adM 
Fii^ii'Field  atid  Wkemont  Pm-k,  being  then  a  dtit« 
^rou^  plilce  on  account  of  robbter^m;  tbiMigh  it  ieeM 
t^  hiftve  been  paftinlty  covered  wM  buildings  in  tM% 
when  Queen  Elizabeth  \9gOed  a  proclailiali(M»  fbltidd$fi(( 
^  kyityg  Of  fbutiddllotls  of  hooves  about  London. 
Hbwfever,  wiihiti  iiic  year^,  ^  eoi^trary  mode  of  pr^ 
t^ki^  w«5  adopted;  the  i^oyerAoient  revoked  Vk 
iMct;  attd  Ih  161 8>  d  cOMfhitoi^^  fWrtii  JaitiM  tke 
FIftt  l^as  entrusted  to  the  etf^  of  Lord  ChancelUr 
bieon>  Attd  othev  ndbletai^tt  iitid  gentry  Ibr  the  bAter 
ttsfMMri  ^'  tiH^  grouifidi.  tlie  comttnsiioit  aMtg^ft, 
*»Tl«it  Mforepublitfr  w^Mlcs  Aenr  and  «bOut  thecit^^r 
lAMiiloti  had  been  UTfdeHftteeA  ih  the  sixteen  yeab  of 
thift  r^gti  th4u'iflhges'faetetofbre$  tbur  LinciolnViAi 
Fk^  iVas  mueb  pltthteA  rouwA  Wilb  dwellihgii^  tnii 
I6idlging^  of  noblefiheti  mid  geml^ttien\>r  quktity,  bilt^tlt 
Mte  shme*  time  wm  «o  defbraied  by  cottages,  toictti 
buildings,  and  enciroatihvttetits  imi  the  Aekk/  that  thfe 
OaiftinkisMotielrs  wefe^trected  to  refemibeai,  iMscorling 
tb*the'y>]ati  «f  luigo  Jt>nesi  reirittd  in  the  Q<mttiimiiMt, 
bnd  accordingly  diiaw«  u^by  way  pf  WMp,  te/"  Thws 
authorized,  it  was  the  int^oll  of  this  emiwMIt  afreh^ 
Vrn^  to  bave  (MnH  til  in  ttiestLttie  style ;  but  the  IH^  of 
iWe  Rejectors  nol  actottltttg  wMi  bis  great  genivi  aiid 
iMlitietoi  tbe  work  w^  Maccottiptiihed.    A  iptcitten 


WAUCS   TBSOUOB   LOKPOIf.  109 

of  the  whole,  howerer^  is  exhibited  in  the  centre  house 
on  the  west  side/  formerly  inhabited  by  the  Earls  of 
Lindsey,  and  their  descendants  the  Dukes  of  Ancaster, 
but  now  divided  into  two  dwellings,  possessing  that 
simple  grandeur  for  which  the  designs  of  Inigo  Jones 
hare  been  so  much  celebrated.  The  four  sides  of  the 
vait  square  were  thus  named :  the  north,  Newman's 
Row ;  the  wcbt.  Arch  Row  ;  the  south,  Portugal  Row ; 
and  the  east,  Lincoln's-Inn  Wall. 

But  since  the  great  families  have  deserted  the  square, 
some  of  their  houses  have  been  divided.  The  great  one 
at  the  comer  near  Queen«Street  was  called  Pcms 
Houte,  having  been  built  for  the  Marquis  of  Powis  in 
1666.  It  was  the  residence  of  Sir  Nathan  Wrigbt,  and 
that  eminent  statesman.  Lord  Chancellor  Somers ;  ailer 
hb  decease  it  was  inhabited  by  Thomas  Pelbam  Holies, 
Duke  of  Newcastle,  and  is  usually  called  SevKM9ile 
Mbtm.  On  this  side  weiPe  also  the  town  houses  of  Sir 
Fitefaef  Norton,  the  Speaker  of  the  Honse  of  ComaiOBt» 
the  Sardinian  Ambassador,  &c. 
'  Co  the  north  side  the  homes  of  John  Soane,  £sq.  and 
oflicni,  form  a  good  row  of  butldingt  in  varied  aircbU 
ftMiire.  The  south  side  has  been  distinguished  by  the 
ifiskieuce  of  eminent  legal  characters,  Lord  CbalH 
Ollleia  Camden,  Loughborough  and  £rskine;  Lord 
Chief  Justke  Kenyon,  Sir  Henry  Gould,  Serjeant 
Adair,  te. 

No.  18|  the  house  of  Mr.  Soane,  the  architect,  has 
Wittila  these  few  year*  been  almost  rebuilt  with  a^nelr 
and  liogular  prcjec^g  front,  and  in  the  small  coon 
hefore  k,  is  to  be  seen  the  cuirions  Roman  Akar  vtifitt^ 
sealed  in  the  fidlowing  wood  cut. 


170 


WALKS   TJHOUOH   LONDON. 


A  g;ateway  od  the  west  side,  of  a  singnhir  dirty  andF 
mean  appearance,  leads  to  Duke-Street,  in  which  is  the 
entrance  to  the  Sardinian  Chapel,  a  Roman  Catholic 
place  of  worship,  which  sufiered  greatly  in  the  dis- 
graceful riots  of  1780.  Before  we  quit  Ltncoln's-Inn 
Fields  it  is  necessary  to  observe,  that  on  the  south  side 
stands  the  newly-erectcd  Svrgeon'i  HaU,  or  Royal  Col- 
Itge  and  Theatre,  one  of  the  most  elegant  structures  in 
the  metropolis.  It  is  of  the  Ionic  order,  with  suitable 
embdlfshments.  Lincohi's-Inn  Fields  was  the  last  stage 
on  which  was  closed  the  patriotic  iiv^  of  Lord  William 
Russel  and  Algernon  Sydney.  The  virtuous  Russel 
lost  his  head  in  the  middle  of  the  square  on  the  Slst  of 
July  1683.  Sydney  was  executed  Uie  latter  end  of  the 
aame  year.  The  eastern  side  of  this  square  is  now  graced 
with  the  prospect  of  the  Ntw  Chancery,  in  LincohiV 
Inn,  a  stuccoed  building  in  the  modern  Gothic  taste, 
with  pointed  windows,  and  an  embattled  roof. 

Portugal-Street  is  famous  for  having  a  Dramatic 
Theatre,  6rst  built  on  the  site  of  a  tennis-court,  and 
opened  by  Sir  William  IV Avenant.  It  has  for  some  years 


•■   •  •  Di- '.•'-- >;rrot,  ...  'a-I    e;;  i^  u..- 

*•     •  .^(    '  ^  <»).!,  a  Hf.maii  CJatliui.*: 

I'''  *  •  *'    ''       'neu'il   iirc:it;v  in   tl»r  <i»s- 

U^    "    '  ••           '       i>'  fore  wf      .'i  {  1.  (  .1i»'*-Iuj' 

^ '•  ■  .  .      •  )'orv<',  th. ;  ••11  the  ^o'  .h  u'r 

i'-       -^ '   '  '          ■.;•'!  "  iri:rofi\s  J't,-l^ -J"*  lin.ful  (    .'- 

i*      •■  .  1    •  .-.f  .'f  i!<v   most  tfl-'c^f'*  --vrpc'uro  jri 

*i''   »^'*   >  J'  .     .{'  *J'C  louic  i.rdtT     ,s  iiti  *<u«i*i^jie 

cinJ*c:...  »  .t-..  !  n' ..;  's-n"  !•,(•' Nv*p- th- '-i;-:  *-(  .« 
on  wl. ;.  «i  V  .inrl.»H,  ,1  tin  j..itj,'.lir  Ir    -  ul  L^*"-'  V'^iiiai'i 

IIuhm-I  A.'vl  A!«;:'fn)ri  S\.l.  V  '  tU  •.••*.ous  l(«.-^rl 
Irs*  ^    H  i.rnti  III  th<    "I  ''Olr  ol  th<r  ♦  nuirt  «  ii  tn^-  'ilst  o!* 

.•    I/  Ki^o.  M  '    V  v>  >'*c\««"<.0  \\u   ii'ttt'  ♦»'itl«>f  the 

V  I  I  lh».  i  rosj«<<:t  of  tilt  AVu*  (j.t/  r;  v.  i'*  I.>ii^>'  'i'"*- 
Jii'.j,  a  n'  ar>t(l  bv.1<!!'i;^  ill  iSe  iii«>«lvn.  VM>)b,t,  tioivj, 
With  poi  ui'4l  uimlow*?,  ami  an  cmm  a^lNT-  r«»c»f. 

Tlj«.'i»r'\    t)rvi  l>.'ilt    on  ill*.  ^!H'    'i    -i    Uui  ^-^•Mirt.    


tUruCLIBRARI 


Ti'  I  a.li  ^iMMMTl 


WAUU  THB6UCR   LONDON.  171 

been  occupied  by  Spode's  china  and  earthen  warehotne* 
It  was  here  that  Macklin  had  the  misfortune  to  kill  Mr. 
Hannam  on  the  sta^e  in  the  year  1735.  Opposite  is 
a  Tery  convenient  and  handsome  house  for  the  poor  of 
St.  Clement's  parish,  and  adjoining  the  burial-ground 
purcha8«!d  by  the  inhabitants  in  1638. 

Clare  Market  is  erected  on  what  was  called  St* 
CUment^t'Inn  Fields. 

Bear-  Yard  is  probably  what  was  called  Rein-Deer 
Yard  ;  and  Gibbon's  Bowhng- Alley ^at  the  coming  out 
of  Lincoln's- Inn- Fields  towards  Portugal-Street,  was 
covered  by  the  Brst  theatre  erected  by  Sir  William 
lyAvenant.  Its  remains  are  now  a  carpenter's  shop^ 
slaughter-houses,  &c. 

Here,  during  Sir  Robert  Walpole's  administration, 
John  Henley,  A.  M.  or  M.  A.  a  disappointed  demagogue, 
vented  his  factious  ebullitions  in  a  room  which  he  caHed 
The  Oratory,  Possessing  no  mean  abilities,  he  was  also 
obnoxious  to  government  by  the^pubUcation  of  the 
Hyp  Doctor,  and  other  papers  on  the  politics  of  the 
times. 

In  1643,  Charles  the  Pint  granted  a  licence  to  6er* 
vase  Hollis,  Esq.  to  «rect  fifteen  houses,  a  chapel,  and 
several  streets,  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  wide.  These 
ftMeta  still  retain  the  names  and  titles  of  their  founder 
in  Clare-Street,  Denzcll-Street,  Holies-Street,  &c. 

Clements  Lane,  a  filthy  inconvenient  avenue,  was  once 
the  residence  of  Sir  John  Trevor,  cousin  to  Lord  Chap* 
odlor  Jefleries.  He  rose  to  be  Solicitor-General,  twice 
Master  of  the  Rolls,  a  Commissioner  of  the  Great  Seal, 
and  twice  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Commons.  He  had 
the  honest  courage  to  caution  James  the  Second  against 
his  arbitrary  conduct,  and  his  first  cousin  Jefierics 
against  his  violence. 

Returning  to  Picket-Street,  the  first  object  of  atten- 
tion is  the  Vestry  Room  of  St,  Clement's,  in  which  it 
placed  the  altar-pieoe,  painted  by  Kent,  that  occauoncd 


179  WALKS  THBOUOV  iONOOM* 

coBsideraUe  agitation  in  1735,  in  conseqiienoe  of  an( 
order  from  Bi>fa6p  Gibsoti  for  its  removal  from  tbtf 
Church,  where  it .  had  been  put  up  at  a  considerabU 
expence.  This  removal  was  on  the  supposition  thai 
the  paintbg^  contained  the  portraits  of  the  Pretender's 
wife  and  children.  After  having  been  first  removed^  it 
was  for  many  years  an  ornament  to  the  coffi!e-room  of 
the  Crown  and  Anchor  tavern,  and  froth  thence  trads^ 
ferred  baik  to  the  old  vestry  at  the  back  of  the  church, 
where  it  remained  till  .taken  to  the  new  one  after  ibt 
year  1803. 

From  the  church  westward,  the  avenues  form  three 
streets  $  one  of  these,  IVych-Streti,  contains  N<w  Inn^ 
an  Inn  of  Chancery,  and  the  only  one  that  retnains 
belonging  to  the  Middle  Temple.  This  Society  many 
years  since  removed  from  Seacoal<*Lane,near  Sno^  Wi^ 
to  be  nearer  to  the  other  Inns  of  Court  and  Chancery. 
New  Inn  boasts  the  honour  of  having  educated  the 
great  Sir  Thomas  More,  who  studied  here  previous  to 
his  entering  himself  of  Lincoln's  Inn. 

The  west  end  of  VVych-Slreet  was  formerly  orot* 
mented  by  Drtary  House,  bnilt  by  Sir  WiHiam  DinJry, 
kn  able  commander  in  the  Irish  wars,  iri  the  reign  of 
Oueen  EliEabeth.  In  the  next  century  it  was  possessed 
by  the  heroic  Lord  Craven,  who  rebnilt  it  It  was  lately 
a  large  brick  pile,  eoticetiled  by  other  buildings,  aodiS 
public  house,  the  sign  of  the  Queen  of  BoheimaU  H^d, 
for  whom  Lord  Craven  fbugbt,  and  to  whom  it  ia  saM 
fab  was  afterwards  privately  married.  When  the  house 
was  taken  down  a  few  years  since^  thd  ground  was  pur- 
chased by  the  ktc  Mr.  Philip  Astlcy,  of  the  Amphi* 
theatre,  Westminister  Bridge,  who  built  what  he  called 
T%e  Oiympic  PiiviHtm,  as  a  house  of  public  exhibition  in 
horsemanship  and  droll. 

Cruvefi  Buiidin^,  the  entrance  to  which  is  from 
Drury-Lane,  till  lately  exhibited  a  good  portrait,  in 
froMo,  of  Lord  Cravca  in  armour,  trith  a  truncheon 


WALKS   THftOOGH  LONDON.  ITS 

in  hU  hand,  aod  jnoQnted  on  bis  white  hone;  jaxA 
00  each  side  an  Earl's  and  a  Baron's  coronet,  and  the 
letters  W.  C. 

Adjoining  to  Wych<Streel  is  HoiywcU^Streei,  from 
the  weM  of  that  name,  ft  is  a  narrow  avenue  of  old 
iU*formed  honse^  tMit  contains  Z^o»'«  £m,  a  place  of 
oonsiderable  antiqnitj,  b«t  now  much  neglected*  The 
Haily  a  handsome  structure,  is  appro{>riated  to  purposes 
difierent  horn  the  original  intention  of  accommodating 
law  stodents. 

*  THethifd  Kne  of  streeu  westward  of  St.  Clenent'a 
k  tiK  Sirtmd,  whete^  between  Essex-Street  and  Mil* 
ford-Lane,  was  anciently  a  ehapel,  the  fimnder  tnt* 
known,  <lediGSted  to  the  HoVy  Ghost. 

jtruneM-Sireet  Mnds  «n.  the  gvound  formerly  oeoQ# 
pied  hy  the  house  and  gardens  of  th^  Bishops  of  Bath 
and  WeHs,  called  also  Hapiptou-'Plaee.  The  episoopd 
bsuse  being  at  length  purchased  by  the  Earl  of  Arun- 
Ael,  it  was  called  Arandel -House,  Jt  afterwards  came 
into  pOBsesskm  of  the  Dukea  of  Norfolk,  whea  ths 
stahlingt  were  towvrds  (tie  Strand,  andtheJarge  garden 
lowtrds  die  Thanes.  Here  the  ArnndeKan  asmMca 
wa^  tept  by  Henry  Hows«d,  Earl  of  Arandet  Norfolk 
Heuse  was  pnUed  down  in  the  8e««iiteenth  century; 
hiA  the(hniily«name  and  titlds  are  retained  m  Howmrd> 
Norfolk,  Arandd,  and  Sutvey^treets.  Westward  of 
these  stre<fts  was  anciently^  the  parish  Church  of  iSt* 
VrmlH^  tf  lite  ^Sttmi,  thongh  molt  ^somikMmfy  cblIM 
that  of  St.  Maty  vfUh&ut  Ttmfk  Bar.  In  IS49  this 
dnmb,  wHhStnmd  Inn  and  Bridge^  and  the  kne  pndnr 
It,  Ihe  palaces  of  thfe  vafrioas  birftops,  and  all  Ae  s^foin* 
iftgtenements,  were  le^Med  locho  ground,  by4>risrof 
flie  Prot«etorS6meir96t,4Htck  to  Bdwwd  the  8ixt|k.  Urn 
Bishop  of  <?he»ter's  mansion  tiad  toeen  bsuit  upon  land 
granted  so  far  back  as  1W7.  Near  it  was  Chcttca-  .ins^ 
in  antikfft  iloaae  of  Ghaiie^iy,  Mongittg  lojke  Middle 
Temple}  mid^(ppoBilethoBiBhfe|»^<Xmii(tryfajB^ 


174  WALKS  TBIOUGB  LOKOOV.' 

the  High-Street^  Blood  a  stone  croM,  **  whereof,"  aajtf 

Stow,  ''  I  read  that  id  the  year  1294,  and  divers  other 

times,  the  justices  itinerant  sat  without  London."   A 

maypole  was  afterwards  placed  in  the  room  of  this  cross 

by  a  roan  named  John  Clargu,  a  smith,  whose  daughter 

Anne  had  been  so  fortunate  as  to  marry  General  George 

Monk,  Duke  of  Albemarle,  in  the  reign  of  Charles  the 

Second.    This  may«pole  was  one  hundred  feet  high, 

but  being  decayed.  Sir  Isaac  Newton  obtained  it  of  the 

parish,  and  had  it  transferred  to  Wanstead,  in  Essex, 

for  the  purpose  •of  supporting  the  largest  telescope  in 

being  at  that  period.  Before  the  may-pole  was  removed 

it  was  adorned  with  streamers,  flags,  garlands  of  flowera, 

&c.  on  public  occasions.    On  this  spot  now  stands  the 

parish  church  of  St.  Maty'le-Sirand,  finished  about 

1733.    It  is  a  very  superb,  though  not  a  very  extensive 

edifice ;  massy,  without  the  appearance  of  being  heavy, 

and  formed  to  stand  for  ages.    The  western  entrance 

it  by.  a  flight  of  steps  cut  in  the  sweep  of  a  circle,  and 

leading  to  a  circular  portico  of  Ionic  columns,  covered 

with  a  dome,  and  crowned  by  an  elegant  vase.    The 

cdumns  are  continued  along  the  body  of  the  church, 

with  pilasters  of  the  same  order  at  the  corners;  and  at 

the  intercolumniations  are  niches  handsomely  oma« 

mented.    Over  the  dome  is  a  pediment  supported  by 

Corinthian  columns,  which  are  also  continued  round 

the  body  of  the  structure,  over  those  of  the  Ionic  order 

beneath ;  between  which  are  the  windows  placed  over 

the  niches.    These  columns,  supported  on  pedestals, 

have  pilasters  behind,  with  arches  sprung  from  them, 

and  the  windows  have  angular  and  circular  pediments 

akemately.    A  handsome  balustrade  is  carried  round 

the  tap,  and  its  summit  is  adorned  with  vases.    The 

steeple  t^  light  though  solid,  and  ornamented  with 

oompoeite  columns  and  capitals. 

At  the  digging  the  foundation  for  the  present  churchy 
tb^  virgin  earth  was  discovered  at  th«  depth  of  nineteen 


WALKS  THBOUGB  LOHOOIT.  Hi 

feet;  a  proof  that  the  ground  in  this  neighbourhood 
originally  was  not  much  higher  than  the  Thames.  This 
Tillage  was  therefore  truly  denominated  the  Strand  from 
its  situation  on  the  bank  of  the  river. 

This  church  will  be  memorable,  for  some  time  at 

least,  in  consequence  of  a  very  serious  accident  which 

happened  here  on  the  proclamation  of  the  peace  of 

Amiens  in  1802.    Just  as  the  heralds  came  abreast  of 

this  place,  one  of  the  urns  upon  the  stone  railing  round 

the  roof  of  the  church,  and  on  which  a  man  on  the  out- 

side  happened  to  be  leaning,  gave  way.  AU  the  windows 

of  the  adjacent  houses  being  crouded,  as  well  as  the 

roof  of  the  church,  several  of  the  spectators  saw  the 

stone  in  the  commencement  of  its  fall,  and  raised  a 

loud  cry.    Several  persons  ran  from  their  situations,  but 

whether  into  or  out  of  the  danger,  they  did  not  know. 

Thfce  young  men  were  crushed  in  its  fall ;  one  was 

struck  on  the  head  and  killed  on  the  spot ;  another  was 

10  much  wounded,  that  he  died  on  his  way  to  the 

hospital;  and  a  third  died  two  days  after.    A  young 

woman  was  also  taken  away  apparently  much  iiyured, 

and  several  others  were  hurt.  The  urn,  which  weighed 

about  two  hundred  weight,  struck  the  cornice  of  the 

church  in  its  descent,  and  carried  part  of  it  away.  An 

officer  of  the  church  went  up  to  ascertain  the  man  whose 

hand  was  upon  the  urn  when  it  tumbled  over ;  he  had 

faDen  back  and  fainted  upon  its  giving  way.     He  was 

taken  into  custody,  but  no  blame  was  found  imputable 

to  him.   The  urn  stood  upon  a  socket ;  but  instead  of 

being  secured  by  a  strong  iron  spike  running  up  the 

centre,  there  was  nothing  but  a  wooden  one,  which 

being  entirely  decayed,  consequently  broke  off  with 

the  pressure  of  the  man's  hand,  as  he  was  in  the  act  of 

leaning  forward.    The  stone  broke  a  large  Bag  to 

pieces  in  the  area  be|ow«  and  sunk  nearly  a  foot  into 

iheground« 

Somend'Plaec.    On  this  site  formerly  stood  the  et^ 


176  WALKS  THBOtTOH   LOVDOif. 

fensivv  ptlaoe  of  SotHen6i''Hmtte,  built  about  the  yeir 
1549,  by  Edward  Seymour,  Duke  of  SotnerBet,  uocleto 
Bdwoiid  the  Sixth,  and  Protector  of  fioglaiid*  wbo,  be» 
sides  demolishing  Sl  Mary's  Church,  and  several  epis* 
copal  mansiotis,  sacn6ced  part  of  the  conveotual  church 
of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem,  Clerkenwell,  the  topper  and 
ebistemon  the  north  side  of  St.  Paul's,  with  the  cbamd 
houses  and  adjoining  chape),  to  furnish  DMterials  tot  ibe 
new  structure  ;  even  the  beaaliful  pile  of  Westmipsler 
Abbey  was  only  fesoued  firom  the  sacrilegious  dilapidat 
tions,  by  immense  contribations.   The  architect  of  this 
fhbric  is  supposed  to  have  been  John  «f  Padua,  thrfirsi 
who  introduced  regular  architecture  into  these  kiDg^ 
doms ;  and  his  allowance  was  the  grant  of  a  fee  of  ino 
shillings  per  diem.  Old  Somerset  House  was  one  of  te 
earliest  specimens  of  the  Italian  atyle  in  this  CQwHifi 
and  displayed  a  mixtiire  of  barbarism  and  beautju 
Somerset  House  had  devolved  totha  crown  by  the  PkVH 
tector*s attainder;  and  Queen  Elizabeth  frequeotly;  ro« 
sided  here,  -and  gav>e  the  use  of  k  to  her  cousin  Load 
Hunsdon.     Here  also  Anae  <if  Iknmark,  duaen  of 
James  the  First,  kept  her  eaurt,  when,  it  aras  oaBad 
Denmark  Hoitf«;  and  as  Charles  the  fijeacaidi  far /dbdoda 
reasons,  did  not  ehoose  that  his  Queen  shoold  ^ohsenrehb 
conduct  towards  certain  fadjes  at  WhitehaU^  he  lodged 
her,dm-ing  some  partofhiareign,  in  this  palace.  Hcreahe 
remained  some  time  aif^er  his  deoeasci  till  she  letnmed^o 
Lisbon.  After  her  departure,  Somerset  House  was  often 
appointed  for  the  reception  of  arabassadoro ;  the  last  who 
stayed  here  any  eonaiderabte  time,  w.ere  the  Veq^lian 
residents,  who  made  their  public 'Ctitiy  into  London  ia 
1768.    When  the  old  part  ^  the  iiaasioD  was  opened^ 
at  the  desire  of  Sir  William  Chambers,  tlKaacUitect  of 
Ac  new  building,  and  when  the  noyal  bad^cfaambKr  aasl 
the  keeper's  drawing-room  were  exposed  tofviaw^  .^ 
number  of  persons  entered  with  the  surveyor«"Th^Mt 


WALES  THC0UG9   ICHfQOK.  I7f 

#rilie  ai|iaitme»ti^  tlie  loag  gallery*  ww  lined  with  <Mk 
ID  sowJl  pameb ;  tbe  faeigkCs  of  Ibeir  noiildii^  had 
Keeo  tMicbed  with  goM ;  it  had  a^  oaken  floor,  and 
a  ataccAod  o«ilifig ;  wrnie  of  the  seonoes  renaained  agatsst 
the  aides,  with  p^it  of  the  cbams,  ^c.  la  this  gallery, 
which  had  beea  «aed  as  «  bailrcoam,  variotts  avIiolcB 
were  thrown  together  ia  Ibe  vtonoit  oosfiision,  the  fwot 
duetiom  of  ^ieml  periods.  In  one  part  were  ibe 
veitigcs  of  a  throne  and  caanpy  of  state;  in  aaoifaer, 
cnsCains  fbr  the  andienoe  4:faaaiber,  whicii  had  onoe 
been  crimson  velvety  fringed  with  gold.  Sfe0ols,caiiehi9» 
firadogs,  were  also  hrohea  and  MSllered  «hoiit  in  a 
state  of  derangpemcait,  eridenUy  exhibiting  the  insta^ 
bility  of  all  Mithly  things. 

Sammrmt  Honse,  by  an  a«Et  passed  in  theseiuind  year 
of  dK.ptestfnt  King,  was  settled  upon  the  iiqeen  lor 
life^  hwt  has,  in  the  pnsent  reign,  been  eschaaged  for 
BnclMighani  House. 

This  faonse  was  originidly  htiik  in  ^  style  of  arohi- 
tefltare  oomposed  of  4he  Grecian  .and  the  fiothic ;  hnt, 
in  1775,  the  whole  of  the  stracture  was  demolished,  in 
eonse^aenca  of  Hn  act  of  padiament,  and  the  present 
estansifie  edifice,  tpota  a  deapi  of  Sir  Wilhaai  Cham* 
hen»  has  fasten  «recled  for  the  afioommedation  «f  .all  the 
pobltc  wfioes-^tbose  of  the  Treasury,  die  Secretary  'of 
ftatE!,theAdniri^»  th^i  Wac,«iidthe£xciae,«xcepted. 
The  fraot  of  this  ^i6ce  si^  to  the  dtran4,  consists 
ef«  rustic  bas^nent,  supporting  a  range  of  colttoins  in 
the  Corinthian  order,  crontiod  in  tbe  oentre  with  an 
ettk  story,  and  adonned  at  Ike  extrepuities  ^ith  a  hal- 
hailnde.  Ihe  grand  eatranoe,  by  three  lefty  ascfaes, 
efKtts  4o  a  apacijMis  and  elegant  vestibirie,  ornamented 
^th  Horic  eohimns. 

Ihe  fiouflhorn  ft'ont,  towards  the  Thames,  is  erected 
^^  terrace  ^y-three  ioct  wideband  the  bttikling» 
^4M4&«IAed,wiU^eKt6Bddbotttl^liM>«eet  The  terrace 
■^supported  on  a  rustic  basement,  erected  upon  an 

N 


178  WALKS  THEOUGR  LOHDON. 

BTcade,  consisting  of  thirty-two  arches,  each  twelve  feet 
wide  and  twenty-four  high.  The  grand  central  arch  is 
intended  for  the  reception  of  the  royal  bai^s.  The 
length  of  this  arcade  is  relieved  by  projections,  orna- 
meMted  by  msticated  Ionic  columns ;  and  the  efiect  of 
the  whole  of  the  terrace^  viewed  from  the  water,  is  very 
noble.  The  public  are  excluded  from  this  terrace ;  but 
it  would  form  one  of  the  most  delightful  promenades  in 
the  world,  as  it  commands  a  view  of  a  very  beautiful 
part  of  the  river,  with  Blackfriars,  Waterloo,  and  West- 
minster bridges. 

In  the  court  of  this  structure  is  a  statue  of  the  present 
king,  and  at  his  feet  is  the  figure  of  the  river  Thames, 
pouring  wealth  and  plenty  from  a  cornucopia. 

The  rooms  of  the  Royal  Society,  the  Antiquarian 
Society,  and  the  Royal  Academy,  occupy  a  part  of  the 
main  building  towards  the  Strand.  The  entrance  to 
tliese  rooms  is  by  the  vestibule.  Over  the  door  of  the 
Royal  and  Antiquarian  Societies  is  the  bust  of  Sir  Isaac 
Mewton ;  and  over  that  of  the  Royal  Academy  ia  the 
bu^t  of  Michael  Angelo  Buonarotti. 

Somerset  Place  also  contains  the  following  public 
offices:  The  Auditor  of  Imprests,  Clerk  of  the  Estreats, 
Duchy  Courts  of  Lancaster  and  Cornwall,  Hackney 
Coach,  Hawkers  and  Pedlars,  .Horse  Duty,  Lord  Trea- 
surer's, Remembrancer's,  Lottery,  Navy,  Navy  Pay,  Pipe 
and  Comptroller  of  the  Pipe,  Salt,  Sick  and  Hurt,  Sig- 
net, Stage-coach  Duty,  Stamp,  Surveyor  of  Crown 
Lands,  Tax,  Victualling,  and  Wine  Licence. 

The  King's  barge-houses  are  likewise  comprehended 
in  this  building,  with  a  dwelling  for  the  barge^master  ; 
besides  hpuses  for  the  Treasurer,  the  Paymaster,  and  six 
Commissioners  of  the  Navy ;  three  Commissioners  of 
Victualling-Office,  and  their  Seciietary ;  one  Commis- 
sioner of  the  Stamps,  and  one  of  the  Sick  and  Hurt; 
with  commo4iou8  apartments  in  each  for  a  Secretary, 
Porter,  &c 


maKB  THROUGH   LONDON.  179 

Among  the  works  of  art  contained  in  this  building, 
the  Hercules,  at  the  foot  of  the  stair-case,  has  been  a 
constant  object  of  admiration.  The  library  of  the  Royal 
Academy  here,  is  ornamented  with  a  painted  ceiling 
by  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds  and  Cipriani.  The  centre 
represents  the  Theory  of  the  Arts,  formed  as  an  elegant 
and  m^e^ie  female,  seated  in  the  clouds,  looking  to- 
wards the  heavens,  holding  in  one  hand  a  compass,  and 
HI  the  other  a  label,  inscribed,  "  Theory  is  the  know- 
ledge of  what  is  truly  Nature."  The  four  compart- 
ments are  expressive  of  Nature,  History,  Allegory  and 
Fable.  The  ceiling  oC  the  Council  Room  is  mostly 
painted  by  West;  the  centre  picture  re]>re6ents  the 
Graces  unveiling  Nature,  surrounded  by  four  pictures 
of  the  Elements,  represented  by  female  figures,  attended 
by  Genii.  The  large  oval  pictures  above,  are  by  An* 
gelica  KauiTman,  representing  Invention,  Composition, 
DesigB  and  Colouring.  In  the  angles  in  the  centrft 
are  four  coloured  medallions,  representing  Apelles^ 
Phidias,  ApoUodorus  and  Archimedes.  Bight  smaller 
medallions,  supported  by  lions  round  the  great  circle, 
represent,  in  chiaro  oseuro,  Palladio,  Bernini,  Michael 
Angelo,  Flamingo,  Raphael,  Dominichini,  Titian  and 
Rubens. 

Nearly  opposite  Somerset  House,  and  passing  the 
new  church,  is  JUitk  Drury»Lane,  a  narrow  avenue, 
which  was  extremely  dirty  till  the  end  towards  the 
Strand  was,  from  a  horse  and  cart  road,  converted  into 
a  paved  court.  This  formerly  led  to  a  road  by  the  side 
of  Craven  House  and  other  noble  mansions,  to  St. 
Giles's  in  the  Fields,  and  to  the  country.  This  road 
was  bounded  by  hedges,  and  partly  adorned  with  trees. 

Where  Catharine-Street  now  stands,    a  stream  of 

water  ran  to  the  Thames ;  over  this,  in  the  Strand, 

was  a  bridge  called  Strand  Bridge.    Catharine-Street 

leads  to  Bridges-Street,  containing  the  Theatre  Royal, 

called  Drury^Lane  Theatre.    The  elegant  new  building, 


MQ  WALKS  TRKOU6H    LOHDON. 

which  was  opened  here  in  1794,  surmounted  by  a  stone 
balustrade,  and  a  colossal  figure  of  Apollo,  was  burnt 
down  in  the  night  of  February  94«  1809.  It  was  built 
by  Mr.  Henry  Holland  upon  an  immense  and  magpiii- 
ficent  pluir  and  was  capable  of  holding  nearly  4000 
persons.  The  stage  was  one  hundred  and  five  feet  io 
length,  seventy-five  feet  wide,  and  forty-five  feet  be* 
tween  the  stage  doors.  The  present  edifice,  which  14, 
in  a  measure,  substantial  and  superb,  was  rebuilt  in 
1811,  on  the  ruins  of  its  predecessor,  by  Benjamin 
Wyatt,  Esq.  aided  by  a  public-spirited  conmiitee, 
assisted  by  their  chairman,  Uie  late  Samuel  Whitbremd, 
Esq.  The  principal  entrance  to  this  theatre  is  in 
Brydges-Street,  through  a  spacious  hall,  leading  to  the 
pit  and  boxes.  This  hall  is  supported  by  five  Doric 
columns;  and  three  large  doors  lead  from  this  hall  into 
the  house,  and  into  a  rotunda  of  great  beauty.  There 
are  passages  to  the  great  stairs  on  each  side  of  the 
rotunda,  which  are  grand  and  spacious :  over  these  are 
emamented  ceilings,  with  a  turret-light.  The  body  of 
the  theatre  presents  nearly  three-fourths  of  a  circle 
from  the  stage ;  and  this  circular  appearance  is  partly 
an  optical  delusion.  This  theatre  is  indebted  to  Colond 
Congreve  for  the  means  of  securing  it  eflfectually  from 
fire;  and  its  general  appearance  is  brilliant,  without 
being  gaudy,  and  elegant  without  aSbctation.  In  this 
superb  theatre,  a  great  and  laudable  attention  has  been 
paid  to  the  scenery,  with  respect  to  those  historical 
sulgecta  which  occur  in  many  of  Sakespeare's  plays. 
However,  with  respect  to  the  exterior  of  Drury*Lane 
Theatre,  there  is  more  of  the  heavy  and  sombre  than 
was  necessary ;  as  the  long  brick  wall  running  from 
Brydges^treet  into  Drury-Lane  gives  the  building 
rather  the  appearance  of  a  prison  than  a  place  of  pnUic 
amusement 

Among  the  more  recent  alterations  in  the  interior, 
the  pit  has  not  only  been  raised,  but  the  elevation  is 


t . 


WA1.KS  TRlOtlGn  LONDON;  181 

mm  «t  a  greater  angle  thao  that  of  any  other  theatre 
to  the  metropolis^  every  person^  since  then,  has  seen 
the  whole  stage,  without  impediinent  froan  those  before 
them.  Thnee  feet  were  also  taken  from  the  stage  and 
thrown  into  the  orchestra;  this  of  course  brought  the 
hand  nearer  the  leader.  The  two  ends  taken  from  the 
orchestra  have  been  appropriated  for  visitors  at  box 
prices;  aad,  though  some  private  boxes  were  taken 
away,  two  new  ones  were  niade  for  the  Princess  Char* 
lotte  and  the  Prince  Cobourg,  and  the  Duke  and 
Duchess  of  Gloucester ;  and  both  the  pit  and  the  boxes 
considerably  devated.  The  Royal  boxes  are  on  the 
opposite  sides  of  the  house  near  the  stage.  The  back 
seats  on  the  dress  circle  are  removed,  which  are  now 
reduced  to  three  rows  of  chairs. 

Betuming  to  the  Strand,  on  the  spot  where  Doiley 's 
Warehouse  now  staads,  was  Wimbledon  House,  a 
large  mansion,  built  by  Sir  Edward  Cecil,  third  son  of 
Thomas,  Earl  of  Exeter.  Sir  Edward  was  much  at- 
tached to  military  pursuits;  and  Stow,  in  his  annals, 
•a|8,  that  this  house  was  burned  quite  down  in  Novem- 
ber, 16S8;  and  that  the  day  before  his  lordship  hid  the 
■uibrtaQe  also  of  having  hb  house  at  Wimbledon, 
in  Surrey,  blown  up  with  gunpowder.  The  ruins  at 
the  back  of  Boiley's,  formerly  seen,  were  probably  the 
lemaias  of  Uie  iKMise  destroyed  by  fire. 

Near  this  spot  stands  the  l^cam  Tke^re^  which  has 
been  rd>uilt,  and  was  opened  in  June,  1816.  It  is  now 
called  The  EmgUtk  Opera  Hom$e,  and  belongs  to  Mr. 
Amok),  who  has  spared  no  pains  in  rendering  it  con- 
venient and  camforiable.  The  diameter  is  thirty-ftve 
feet;  and  the  distance  from  the  front  boxes  to  the 
orchestra  is  only  thiity  ieet;  so  that  the  actors  may  be 
ann,  as  well  as  heard,  from  all  parts  of  the  house. 
Ihe  pit  is  raised  by  an  unusual  elevation  on  an  inclined 
phne,  and  has  no  steps,  but  a  passage  in  the  niddk. 


182  WALKS  TBKOUGH  LONDON. 

The  building  is  upon  a  smaller  scale  than  the  wifliter 
theatres ;  and  the  form  of  the  interior  is  that  of  a  lyrr. 
The  decorations  of  the  boxes  and  proscenium  are 
all  indicative  of  its  being  appropriated  to  music* 
The  principsd  box  entrance  is  from  the  Strand ;  the 
other  entrances  are  from  Exeter  Place  and  Exeter- 
Street*  This  large  pile  of  building  was  erected  in  the 
short  space  of  six  or  seven  months,  and,  though  not 
rery  conspicuous^  is  an  ornament  to  tbe  metropolis. 

Exeter  House. — This,  originally  the  parsonage-hoose 
of  St.  Clement  Danes,  falling  to  the  crown,  remained 
as  its  property  till  Queen  Elizabeth  granted  it  to  Sir 
William  Cecil,  Lord  Treasurer,  who  enlarged  and  re- 
built it ;  after  which  it  was  called  Cecil  Home  and 
Burleigh  House.  Lord  Burleigh  died  here,  in  1596 ; 
being  inhabited  by  his  son  Thomas,  it  was  called 
Exeter  House.  After  the  Fire  of  London,  it  was  occu- 
pied by  tbe  Doctors  of  Civil  Law,  till  1672.  The  lower 
part,  forming  Exeter  Change,  has  long  been  filled  with 
shops  of  various  descriptions,  whilst  the  upper  partr 
occupied  by  a  menagerie  of  wild  beasts»  birds,  and 
reptiles. 

The  Savoy,  originally  the  site  of  a  house  inhabited  by 
Simon  de  Montfort,  Earl  of  Leicester,  a  powerful  baroo, 
nearly  opposite,!  akes  its  name  from  Peter,  Earl  of  Savoy, 
who  built  a  large  house  here  in  1245,  and  gave  it  to  the 
fraternity  of  Mounl^oy,  of  whom  Queen  Eleanor,  wife 
«f  Henry  the  Third,  purchased  it  for  her  son,  John  of 
Gaunt,  Duke  of  Lancaster.  When  it  came  into  the 
bands  of  Henry  the  Seventh,  he  founded  a  large  hospi- 
tal here,  and  called  it  that  of  St.  John  BaptisL 

The  Savoy  has  been  reduced  to  ashes  several  times, 
particularly  by  Wat  Tyler  and  Jack  Cade ;  and  more 
than  once  by  acddent.  The  cbapel  that  still  remains 
is  properly  the  Chapel  of  St.  John  Baptist,  and  is  of 
great  antiquity,  and  contains  several  ancient  monu- 


•.»•  .  .     I.    .        .     t'..      "  .'•  .I'...    .   • 

•.»:.-.'  .        -•  !•(.  •..*    «•  ,•;    ■  ^ 

Oi  tills  Wito  iLc  i.i-iy,  n  c:.Min   1.  .-.  .ro    . 

the  body  of  the  hospital  part ;  the  ground  plan  was  in 
the  shape  of  the  cross :  this  had  more  omameDts  than 
the  south  front ;  with  large  pointed  windows  and  em^ 
battled  parapets^  lozenged  with  flints^'' 


WALKS  THROUGH  XONDON.  168* 

nents.  It  was  repaired  in  1721,  wholly  at  thie  charge 
<»f  George  the  First,  who  also  enclosed  the  burial  ground 
wkh  a  strong  brick  wall* 


Mr.  Malcolm  observes — '*  Few  places  in  Londoi» 
have  undergone  a  more  complete  alteration  and  ruin 
than  the  Savoy  Hospital.  According  to  the  plates 
published  by  the  Society  of  Antiquaries,  in  1750,  it 
was  a  most  respectable  and  excellent  building,  erected 
on  the  south  side  of  the  Strand,  and  literally  in  the 
Thames. .  This  front  contained  several  projection^»,  and 
two  rows  of  angular-mullioned  windows.  Northward 
of  this  was  the  Friary,  a  court  formed  by  the  walls  of 
the  body  of  the  hospital  part ;  the  ground  plan  was  in 
the  shape  of  the  cross :  this  had  more  ornaments  than 
the  south  front ;  with  large  pointed  windows  and  em-^ 
battled  parapets^  lozenged  with  flints.'' 


1S4  WAUM  THllOU13«  JLOiWOIb 

<' At  ibto  westendoftliebuildftBi^is  the  Gu^td-Bmte, 
Irith  its  g«Uway«  secured  by  a  strong  buCtrett^  aad 
embellislied  with  Henry  the  Seventh's  sms^  and  tke 
badges  of  the  rose  and  portcullis ;  and  above  these  are 
two  windows  projecting  into  a  semi-sexagon.'^  Tbk 
part  is  still  the  entrance  to  the  military  prison. 

The  Savoy  was  the  honourable  residence  of  John, 
King  of  France^  as  a  prisoner^  aftet  the  battle  of  Poic- 
tiers.  After  visiting  bb  brother,  in  1363,  he  returned, 
and  died  m  coikfinettrettt  the  April  foKowing.  The  ap- 
pearance of  this  oisce-celebraled  spot,  in  September, 
1816,  JQslified  the  following  observations : 

"  The  Savoy  is  every  day  tbe  rend^zvotrs  for  curious 
persbiis>  who  appear  ihxlous  to  htepect  the  ancient 
walls  of  the  once  royai  palace.  Within  tbe  last  week, 
or  ten  days,  those  vestiges  of  grakideur  have  been  partly 
thrown  down.  The  ^tosses  now  remaining,  covered 
with  Ivy  and  moss,  present  '^h  loi^ect  worthy  the  in- 
spection of  the  anttquaty.  The  large  north  window, 
with  Norman  Gothic  frame  work,  is  worthy  a  place  in 
the  artist's  sketch-book ;  but  any  pleasure  to  be  derived 
from  committing  it  to  the  tablet  will  soon  be  lost  for 
ever,  because  the  last  frail  memorial  must  shortly  lie 
lev^l  oil*  the  earth.  Tile  worknKn  employed  to  th^w 
down  these  kCty  enchMres  ha wfcmnRl  their  t^radier 
ardih>u8.  Timc^  whidi  destraya  the  arast  durabk 
moDomlents  of  huwen  ingenuity,  has,  in  this  instance^ 
uicreaaed  the  strerigpth  and  solidity  origiiially  given  t» 
the  princfifial  part  of  the  fabriti  The  wtUs,  buih  of 
hnck>  8tone>  and  flifnt,  cemented  by  moriar,  accmto 
bare  f<Mmed,  by  kfng  standing,  «oe  hard  mess,  ahnoit 
hniAbveable.  In  several  parts  tbe  thitkness  is  eight  at 
ten  feet  The  men  first  apfilied  that  great  Miedundioal 
power  the  screw  jack,  bat  found  their  efibftavaiM; 
they  then  dog  with  pickaxes  holes  ai  the  bottom;  and» 
having  weakendd  the  f<^ndatron,  as  it  were,  aip|»tied 
iron  bars  across  the  upper  part  of  the  Gothic  windows; 


PU:- Lie  LIBRARY 


•im*      •.   T'.-  ^i>l    ..t'.l    .♦■|.    ..    ^,,       ;• 
•/  •  t  lL\*~    '    •  «  »   ''f>Ci':'    «»  •     .  '.\  »..     i 

>  •    *•"  aifil  H  »   '•x'l  •   *•  '    ".    vi"  •'■*.      v\  »*    .     .       .;  ••  ,,j 

t.  •♦.:.i''fr   iTriirk 'i{  ^l,^    i-    «. .   •»,'.;,     i    ,         ',      *\s 

fw  iit%   u-*  rr   fil'ol   i.p  «%.<!!  ^  ..  J,.       \  ....   . 

U>t'    je;ir     1777     tha-w       .  .*»    ;\   ^«'il    j-    "•»;■    ■'     •« 

''»'»« tji'.' i»'*y    it  •?.<»*    ^'\^  .  I   ai  •<      •     II    *       *i.  •  < 

m-ijl»     .      riii  *    r;   lilt  ruiii..   •     •      •.»    •  . 
•  •«-»  ■•.     »  ».*   ex|,«)oti  !       h    |-  .  •        •  .     . 

•i»  ••♦il  *  itt  j><H'<i  m*  a,:  »;r;  t«j   ••'   :i    -•   ■      :  • 

. » I  |>utli.'d  <lown  l\wi  riMj   'ki  k   liou-r  ihiu    t...        ,      . 
*  •    y  .^Ofiar*,    and   w«  .."^cti  loi    Ir.rrtv'.-.      '  * 
. '.'. .    to  the  .^t  I  aiid  or  Wa'crJMO  Jiridge  w  li  bt.  ••  tv  ;>. 


f  . 


•Si 


.••**^.  s»Ai^,i 


WALKS  TRa<M}GB    LONDON.  18ft 

fop^  were  festened  io  these  iron  ban,  and  the  strengtii 
of  many  baD<k  made  the  ruim  faU  inward:  aa  the 
csleiior  of  the  waUs  were  supported  by  strong  buttre%- 
wfMf  aome  hundreds  of  men  would  have  been  necessary 
Io  pull  down  the  pilej  so  that  it  might  fall  outward,—* 
Sane  of  the  stone  is  peculiarly  white  and  soft ;  and» 
accofdiDg  to  tradition^  it  was  brought,  in  the  reign  of 
Queen  Mary  I.  from  Normandy,  for  the  express  purpose 
of  repairing  the  Palace  of  the  Savoy,  or,  as  it  was  then 
caHed,  the  Savoy  Hospital,  built  by  her  ancestor,  Henry 
the  Seventh.  The  quality  of  the  stone  was  recently 
discovered  by  a  few  of  those  industrious  individuala, 
who  are  constantly  in  search  of  whatever  may  be 
turned  Io  pro6t  and  advantage.  £very  day  one  or 
two  of  the  latter  description  may  be  seen  sitting  ou  the 
Ivins  and  cutting  the  stone  with  knives  into  squares, 
whkb  they  sell  as  a  proper  material  to  clean  hearth* 
ftoues  and  the  steps  before  doors.  We  have  not  beeu 
ahfe  to  discover  that  any  ol^iect  comauiing  inacHptioi^ 
or  legibk  mark  of  aoitiquity,  has  yet  been  found.  Aa 
the  buiUiog  decayed,  the  ground-floor,  or  lower  apart^ 
DBDt^  were  filled  up  with  ruius.  A  fire  also,  about 
the  year  1777,  threw  down  a  great  portion  of  the 
structure,  so  that  the  present  level  leaves  fifteen  or 
twenty  feet  of  the  waHs  under  ground.  The  vaults 
and  Mbterraneous  passage  uader  the  hospital  ate 
consequently  covered  over ;  and,  as  it  is  intended  to 
Inake  a  road  over  the  tuiius,  it  is  not  probable  those 
vanks  will  be  explored.  In  parts  where  weHs  had  been 
dag»  the  bricks  and  rubbish  appear  to  have  been  re- 
miwed  and  piled  up  again  on  each  side«  to  leave  the 
ssflne  open,  but  the  depth  now  to  he  seen  does  not 
eicetfd  tieu  feet  They  have  entirely  removed  the 
GenMn  Chapel,  whjdh  stood  next  Somerset  Houses 
and  puMed  down  the  red  brick  house  that  rtood  in  the 
Savoy  square^  and  waa  used  for  barracks.  The  ea- 
trance  to  the  Strand  or  Waterloo  Bridge  will  be  spaciouib 


186  WALKS  TikROUGU   LONDOH. 

and  the  houses  in  the  Strand  now  only  stop  the  opeoii^ 
We  understand  they  are  shortly  to  come  down.  UpoD 
the  bridge  the  masons  have  got  up  a  considerable  part 
of  the  balustrade,  and  the  filling  in  with  clay  proceeds 
rapidly.  On  the  Surrey  side,  the  grand  support  of 
the  intended  road-way,  consisting  of  broad  brick  walk, 
and  stone-work,  is  quite  finished.  From  the  extremity 
of  the  brick-work  a  line  of  road  is  continued  by  raised 
ground,  which  extends  to  the  vegetable  gardens  north 
of  Lambeth  Marsh.  These  public  works,  on  the 
whole,  proceed  with  spirit ;  and,  in  the  course  of  a  few 
months,  the  face  of  the  landed  property  contiguous  to 
the  bridge-work  will  assume  a  totally  new  appearance.'' 
The  Sirand  Bridge,  of  which  Mr.  Rennie  is  the  ar- 
chitect, though  one  of  the  longest  stone  bridges  in 
Europe,  is  rather  flat.  It  consists  of  nine  elliptical 
arches  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  span,  on  eight 
piers,  twenty  feet  wide :  the  width,  within  the  para* 
pets,  is  forty-two  feet ;  the  foot-paths  being  seven  feet 
each,  and  the  road-way  twenty-eight  feet ;  and  is  em- 
bellished with  short  Doric  columns.  Besides  the  in- 
tended alteration  of  the  pavement  in  the  Strand,  and 
other  improvements  for  convenient  access  to  the  bridge 
an  embankment  is  to  be  made  to  the  east  of  it,  at  least 
three  feet  above  the  high-water  mark,  and  to  extend  to 
the  distance  of  thirty  feet  into  the  river. — ^This  bridge 
has  been  some  time  passable  for  foot  passengers,  who 
at  present  pay  three-pence  each  :  all  the  piers  are  of 
course  completed,  and  the  rest  of  the  works  are  pro- 
ceeding with  great  activity.  In  order  also  that  a  com- 
modious access  to  this  bridge  may  be  secured  on  the 
Surrey  side,  a  road  is  to  lead  from  it  to  the  other  side 
of  Westminster  Bridge ;  to  the  Stones  End,  in  Black- 
man-Street  in  the  Borough,  by  the  Obelisk  in  St. 
George's  Fields;  besides  others  continuing  the  way 
across  Black  Friars  Road,  towards  that  of  West^ 
minster. 


♦  .j»<r;--''- "?>«?*.; 


•«    I. 


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r*"~"i.r   --v.' YORK 
..u'riiC  LIBRARY! 


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•I   \\    '.no      i.'t.'.iiin.i    \'-'    •*.   ■ 
«hi*'.«  li.   i*:<   hw«  ..jjx  |..r    iu    •.  :•    :..     . 

C «  -.v  '  /   ^» ' ' iff  i   i   '  'itr '      'f  ■•  .    [♦a  ■ 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  I97 

Denmark  Court,  in  the  Strand,  contains  a  handsome 
Jewish  synagogue,  as  numbers  of  these  people,  mostly 
clothes  salesmen,  reside  near  Covent  Garden  and 
the  Strand.  Beaufort  Buildings  rose  on  the  exten- 
siTc  site  of  Worcester  House;  here  lived  the  great 
Earl  of  Clarendon,  paying  for  this  house  the  extrara- 
gant  rent  of  500/.  per  annum.  Its  latest  possessor, 
the  Duke  of  Beaufort,  finding  it  going  to  decay,  took 
it  down,  and  formed  Beaufort  Buildings  and  the  ave- 
nues leading  to  them,  out  of  its  ruins. 

Soutkampton-Sircct  is  so  called  in  compliment  to 
Lady  Rachel,  the  excellent  consort  of  William  Lord 
Rttssel,  and  at  present  forms  a  spacious  avenue  from 
the  -Strand  to  Convent  Garden,  commonly  called 
Covent  Garden.  The  large  square  called  Covent  Gar* 
den  Market,  contains  three  acres  of  ground,  and  is  the 
best  in  England  for  herbs,  fruit,  and  flowers.  Had 
the  magnificent  piazza  on  the  north  side,  as  designed 
by  Inigo  Jones,  been  carried  all  round,  this  would  have 
been  one  of  the  finest  squares  in  Europe. 

The  Church  of  St.  Paul,  Covent  Garden,  was  erected 
in  the  year  1640,  as  a  chapel  of  ease  to  St.  Martins-in- 
the-Fields,  at  the  expence  of  Francis,  Earl  of  Bedford, 
for  the  accommodation  of  his  tenants.  The  front  ex- 
hibits a  plain  but  noble  portico  of  the  Tuscan  order ; 
the  G<^umns  are  massy,  and  the  intercolumniation  wide; 
the  roof  is  flat,  and  though  of  great  extent,  is  supported 
by  the  walls  alone,  without  pillars.  In  September  1795, 
a  fire,  caused  by  the  neglect  of  the  plumbers  then 
at  work,  occasioned  the  whole  of  the  interior  to  be 
burnt  down.  The  walls  having  received  but  little 
damage,  the  whole  edifice  was  restored,  without  any 
material  deyiation  from  the  original  plan.  Before  thb 
church,  the  hustings  for  the  election  of  parliamentary 
representatives  for  Westminster,  are  usually  erected. 

Covent  Garden  Theatre.  The  present  edifice  was 
opened   in  September  1809,  within  twelve  months 


t8B         WALK»  THROUCB  LONDON* 

of  the  time  when  the  former  buUding,  rebuilt  in  1787| 
WM  burnt  down.  Its  magnificent  front,  and  tbe  <cttlp« 
tuie  in  Bow*>Sireet,  has  been  much  and  justly  admired; 
and  no  cost  has  been  spared  to  render  the  interior  cor* 
respondent  in  taste  and  grandeur.  In  the  centre  of  tfaii 
front  three  Greek  poet«  are  silting ;  the  two  kiok'mg 
towards  the  portico  are  Aristophanes  and  Menander; 
the  former  representing  tbe  old  comody»  tbe  latter  the 
new.  Before  them  Thalia  presents  herself  with  her 
crook  and  comic  mask.  She  is  followed  by  Polyhymnia 
playing  on  the  greater  lyre»  and  Euterpe  on  the  kss ; 
Clio  with  the  long  pipes,  and  Terpsichore,  the  muae  of 
action,  or  pantomime.  These  are  succeeded  by  three 
nymphs,  crowned  witih  the  leaves  of  the  fr-pine,  and 
.wearing  short  tunics,  representing  the  hours  or  seasooa 
governing  and  attending  tbe  winged  horse  Pegasus.***- 
The  third  sitting  figure  in  the  centre,  looking  from  the 
portico^  is  iElschyltts,  the  father  of  tragedy.  Ho  holds 
a  sc^U  open  upon  his  knee,  and  his  attention  is  fixed 
on  Wisdom  or  Minerva,  with  her  heknet  and  shield, 
seated  opposite  the  poet.  Between  iEscbyitts  and  Mi* 
aerva,  Bacchus  stands  leaning  on  his  Aiwa%  Behind 
Minerva  stands  Melpomene  or  Tragedy,  holding  a  sword 
and  a  mask*  fQlk>wed  by  two  FttrieM  with  snakca  and 
torehes,  pursaiog  Orestes  stretchuig  his  bands  Co  ia|^ 
plScale  Apollo  for  protcctioii.  Apolla  is  represented  in 
the  ^piadriga,  or  ibur^horsed  diariot  of  the  sun. 

The  Mkkm  Drama.  In  tbe  centre^  looking  firaai 
the  partato,  Shakespeare  is  aitting ;  the  eomtc  Mid  Irigie 
maiits,  with  the  lyrev  are  about  his  seat  9  his  rig^t  head 
is  raised  calUng  up  Caliban,  laden  with  wood ;  nex^ 
Feidiiiand  sbeatfamg  faia  swoid;  than  Miranda  en- 
treating  Prospero  in  behalf  of  her  lover.  These  cAm^ 
Tactets  in  the  Tempest  are  led  on  by  Ariel  above,  piay^ 
ing  on  a  ftyve;  and  this  part  of  the  proccasian  is  terv 
■nnrtpd  by  Hecate,  Ae  three-fermed  goddess,  in  her 
cat,  drawn  hy  osen  descending.    She  is  attended  by 


WALKS  TBROUGH  tOin>01f.  189 

Lftdy  Macbeth,  with  the  daggers  in  her  haads,  followed 
by  Macbeth,  turning  in  horror  from  the  body  of  Duncan 
behind  bim.  In  the  centre,  looking  towards  the  portico^ 
is  Mihon,  seated  and  contemplating  Urania,  opposite 
to  him  above ;  at  his  feet  is  Sampson  Agonistes  chained* 
The  remaining  figures  represent,  the  masque  of  Comus| 
the  two  brothers  driving  out  three  Bacchanals,  with 
their  staggering  leader.  The  enchanted  Lady  is  seated 
in  the  chair,  and  the  series  is  ended  by  two  tygers, 
representing  the  transformation  of  Comus's  devotees. 
Two  niches  in  the  wings  are  occupied  by  statues  repre^ 
Renting  Tragedy  and  Comedy ;  the  former  holding  the 
tngic  mask  and  dagger;  the  latter  the  shephei^s 
crook  or  pedum.  Had  all  these  figures  been  more  pro* 
minent,  the  efiect  would  have  been  more  satisfiictory  to 
the  general  spectator;  but  the  better  informed*  win  l^ 
member  that  they  are  in  hasso,  not  in  alio  teiitvo. 

Returning  to  the  Strand,  nearly  opposite  Southamp* 
ton-Street,  is  Cecil-Sireft,  the  ^te  of  Salisbury  House, 
built  by  Sir  Robert  Cecil,  first  Earl  of  Salisbury,  who 
caused  the  high  street  in  the  Strand  to  be  paved  and 
kreiled  before  his  house  for  the  convenience  of  paasen« 
gers.  A  part  of  this  house,  over  the  long  galleryi  wl» 
eventually  afterwards  converted  into  an  Exchange,  and 
called  Tile  Middle  Exchange ;  but  being  deserted,  the 
whole  went  to  decay.  After  it  was  taken  down,  Cecil* 
Street  rose  upon  its  ruins.  The  liberty  of  the  Duchy 
of  Lancaster  ends  at  the  east  end  of  this  street. 

JDicr^m-lTaKse  was  the  town  residence  of  Anthony 
De  Bee,  the  Bishop  of  that  see,  in  the  reign  of  Edward 
the  First,  and  was  caUed  Durham-Place  Id  the  Stmid, 
by  him  and  his  successors;  where,  in  1549,  a  magni*- 
flcent  fete  was  given  by  the  challengers  of  England 
against  several  lords  of  France,  Holland,  Scotland,  and 
Spaiti.  However,  in  the  issue,  both  the  challengera 
and  defendants  were  English ;  and,  after  the  gaflanl 
sports  of  each  day  at  Westminster,  both  parties  rode 


IM  WALKS  TBBOUGH   LONDOIf. 

to  DurbiO^Houae,  and  feasted  the  King  and  Queen 
Ann  of  Ckresy  with  her  ladies.  This  |Mlace  had  pre- 
viously been  consigned  over  to  Henry  the  Eighth,  in 
exchange  for  some  equivalent ;  and  it  was  afterwards 
granted,  by  Edward  the  Sixth,  to  his  sister  Elizabeth, 
as  her  residence  for  life :  Mary,  however,  who  pro- 
bably thought  the  gift  sacrilegious,  granted  it  again  in 
reversion  to  the  Bishops  of  Durham.  Queen  Elizabeth 
afterwards  gave  the  use  of  this  house  to  the  great  Sir 
Walter  Raleigh.  In  the  reign  of  Charles  the  First, 
coming  into  the  possession  of  the  Earl  of  Pembroke, 
his  son  caused  the  whole  to  be  taken  down,  and  con- 
veriad  into  tenements  and  avenues,  as  it  continued, 
till  totally  demolished,  to  make  room  for  the  Adelphi. 
Over  the  stables  of  this  house,  which  probably  dis- 
figui:ed  the  Strand,  King  James,  in  1608,  built  an  Ex- 
change, which,  though  opened  by  the  king  and  queen, 
and  called  BrtloiVs  Burae,  dwindled  into  frivolity  and 
decay.  In  this  structure,  when  an  Exchange,  sat,  in 
the  character  of  a  milliner,  the  reduced  Duchess  of 
Tyroonnel,  wife  to  Bichacd  Talbot,  Lord  Deputy  of 
Inland,  a  bigotted  Papist,  under  James  the  Second : 
till  she  was  discovered,  and  otherwise  provided  for,  she 
•at  here  in  a  white  mask  and  a  white  dress ;  and,  as 
Mr.  Pennant  says,  was  known  by  the  name  of  the 
Whiu  Milliner. 

The  building  of  the  Adelphi  was  a  prqject  of  great 
magnitude, 'as,  when  purchased  by  Messrs.  Adams, 
it  was  a  heap  of  ruins;  but  the  stately  streets,  the 
extreme  depth  of  the  foundations,  the  massy  piers  of 
brick-work,  and  the  spacious  subterranean  vaults  and 
arcades  which  they  erected  upon  it,  excited  the  wonder 
of  the  ignorant,  and  the  applause  of  the  skilful ;  whilst 
the  regularity  of  the  whole  superstructure,  and  the  de- 
gree and  novelty  of  the  decorations,  equally  delighted 
all  descriptions  of  people. 

The  front  of  the  Adelphi,  towards  the  river^  iaone 


Walks  tbiovgh  London.       191 

xl  the  most  dittinguishing  objects  between  Waterk)o 
and  Westminster  Bridges.  The  elevation  of  the  ter- 
race, lifting  the  eje  above  the  wharfs  and  war^ 
houses  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  charms  it  with 
a  prospect  of  the  adjacent  country.  It  is  also  observa- 
ble, that  in  the  streets  of  the  Adelphi  the  brothers  have 
contrived  to  preserve  their  respective  Christian  names, 
as  well  as  their  faroilj  name.  In  John*Street  is  the 
building  designed  and  executed  for  the  Encouragemeni 
qf  Aru,  Manufactures,  and  Commaxe.  This  building 
alone  is  a  sufficient  indication  that  the  architects  were 
completely  sensible  of  the  beauty  and  grandeur,  result- 
ing from  simplicity  of  composition  and  bddness  of 
projection.  The  pictures  and  other  otgects  in  the 
interior  are  such  as  must  give  natives  and  foreigners 
an  exalted  idea  of  the  taste  and  genius  of  the  British 
nation. 

Returning  through  Adam-Street  to  the  Strand,  we 
arrive  at  Be4ford'Sireet,  the  site  of  the  ancient  mansion 
of  the  Earls  and  Dukes  of  Bedford ;  it  was  ''  a  large 
old  house,  having  a  great  yard  before  it  for  the  recep« 
tion  of  carriages,  and  a  spacious  garden,  behind  which 
were  coach-houses  and  stables;''  but  the  house  and 
gardens  being  demolished,  the  ground  was  covered  with 
Tavistock,  Southampton,  and  other  streets. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Strand  are  avenues  to 
York  Buildings,  so  called  from  having  been  the  resi* 
dence  of  the  Archbishops  of  York,  till  Archbishop 
Matthew,  in  the  reign  of  James  the  First,  exchanged 
it  with  the  crown  for  several  manors.  It  was  the  resi- 
dence of  LoFd  Chancellors  £gerton  and  Bacon,  after 
which  it  was  granted  to  George  Villiers,  Duke  of  Buck- 
ingham, who  rebuilt  it  most  magnificently.  In  I64B, 
Ihe  Parliament  bestowed  it  on  General  Fairfax,  whose 
daughter  and  heiress  marrying  the  second  Duke  of 
Buckingham,  the  house  reverted  to  its  true  owner,  who 
mided  here  several  years  subsequent  to  the  Rcitora- 


IM  WAUa  THftOUOU  LOKDON. 

Hon ;  but  at  length  disposed  of  it,  and  laid  aeveiil 
sireett  out  on  the  site,  which  go  by  his  name  and  tides; 
<«George»Street,  Villiers-Stfcet,  I>uke*.Street,  Of  AUej, 
and  Huckinghaoi-Screet/' 

York  Stairs  is  a  most  perfect  piece  of  baikling»  and 
does  honour  to  the  name  of  Inigo  Joiie:«»  who  fovmcd 
it  of  such  equal  and  harmonious  parts,  and  ecnbeilishad 
it  in  such  a  manner>  that  nothing  can  be  justly  oen* 
•nred  or  added.  Unck-work,  or  rustic,  can  nerer  be 
better  introduced  than  in  buiMings  by  die  side  of 
wvter;  and  it  is  m  question  with  some  judges  whether 
it  ought  to  be  made  use  ^any  where  else. 

York  Buildings  Water* Works  are  under  the  cuper«> 
Inlendance  of  a  Company,  ineorporated  in  the  year 

Hungmford  Market  takes  its  name  from  a  family  of 
Farleigh,  in  Wiltshire.  Sir  Edward  Hungerford  was 
meated  Knight  of  the  Bath  at  the  coronation  of  Charles 
the  Second,  and  had  a  large  mansion  here,  which  he 
converted  into  tenements  end  a  market  Over  the 
mai4fiet»house  was  a  large  room,  called  ^  The  Fmaek 
Church,"  afterwards  the  Charity  School  for  St.  Martia 
tn  the  Fields.  A  bust  <£  Charles  the  Ikcond^  on  the 
north  skk,  wu,  tiitt  negleoled,  considered  «  an  oma* 
ment  to  the  marketphouse.  It  is  understood  that  n 
new  matt  for  Ash  is  to  be  bulk  on  th^  bank  of  the 
*Iliunes  near  this  old  mufitet,  now  in  diepse. 

On  the  other  side  of  theStrand,  nearly  opposite  ttms^ 
gcrford-Street,  is  the  part^  chuich  of  Si.  MatHt^  in4Ar 
l^ntfds,**-This  ediAee  Was  rebuili  and  oonseorated  in  Che 
year  If  96b  Itisandegantstonestruolufe.  In  the  wast 
flwnt  is  an  ascent  by  a  Wdty  long  flight  of  atepe  to  a 
very  noble  portico  of  Corinthtan  oolumns,  euppottihgn 
pediment,  in  which  4s  the  royal  arms  in  hw  rdfer>  sad 
underneath  «  Latin  inscription  relating  toe  the  fiuliia^ 
tiaii  of  the  church.  The  same:  order  is  eonlhMiedffOnhd 
in  pitrtters;  eM  in  die  inliarpolhimttiatfoni  are  two 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  193 

series  of  windows,  surrounded  with  rustic.  On  each 
side  of  the  doors,  on  the  sides  near  the  corners,  are 
lofty  Corinthian  columns ;  the  roof  is  concealed  by  a 
handsome  balustrade;  the  steeple  is  stately  and  elegant, 
and  the  tower  contains  an  excellent  peal  of  twelve  bells. 
The  interior  decorations  are  very  fine;  the  ceiling  is 
eliptical,  **  which,''  says  Mr.  Gibbs,  "  I  find  by  ex- 
perience to  be  much  better  for  the  voice  than  the  serni^ 
circular,  though  not  so  beautiful.  It  is  divided  into 
pannelS)  enriched  with  fret-work."  Slender  Corinthian 
columns,  on  high  pedestals,  rising  in  the  front  of  the 
galleries,  serve  to  support  both  them  and  the  roof, 
which,  on  the  sides,  rests  upon  them  in  a  very  orna- 
mental arch-work.  The  east  end  is  richly  adorned 
with  fret-work  and  gilding;  and  over  the  altar  is  a 
large  Venetian  window,  with  ornamental  stained  glass. 
On  each  side  are  seats,  with  glazed  windows,  for  the 
royal  family  and  their  household,  whenever  they  come 
to  church  to  qualify  themselves  to  hold  certain  offices. 
Though  the  steeple  of  this  church  is  so  contrived  as  to 
seem  to  want  support,  the  building,  upon  the  whole, 
is  composed  in  a  grand  style  of  one  order :  the  portico 
is  truly  n^le,  and  wants  nothing  but  the  advantage  of 
being  seen.  The  interior  is  remarkably  handsome, 
and'  the  vestry-room  contains  very  fine  portraits  of 
Archbuhops  Lamplugh  and  Tennison,  Bishop  Pearce, 
Dr.  Lancaster,  and  other  dignitaries  who  were  vicars  of 
this  church. 

In  Cravc9^Streei  is  a  house.  No.  7,  remarkable  for 
having  been  the  residence  of  Dr.  Franklin,  and  at  pre- 
sent the  place  of  meeting  for  the  Society  for  the  Retief 
of  Persons  imprisoned  for  Small  Debts,  which  rose 
through  the  well-meant  endeavours  of  the  Rev.  Dr. 
Dodd,  in  1773.  Between  York  House  and  Charing- 
CrosB  stood  the  Hospital  of  Si.  Mary,  a  cell  to  the 
priory  of  Rouncival,  in  Navarre»  founded  in  the  reign 
of  Henry  the  Third.    After  the  general  suppression. 


194  WALKS  TUROUCB  LONDOW. 

it  was  given  by  Edward  the  Sixth  to  Sir  Thomas  Cawar* 
den,  and  from  whom  it  came  to  Henry  Howard^  E&rl  of 
Northampton,  who  built  a  mansion  out  of  its  ruins,  and 
called  it  Northampton  House.     The  Earl  dying  here, 
in  1634^  left  the  edifice  to  his  kinsman,  the  Earl  of  Suf- 
folk ;  hence,  by  marriage  of  Algernon  Percy,  Earl  dT 
Northumberland,  with  the  daughter  of  the  Earl  of  Suf- 
folk, it  passed  into  her  family,  about  the  year  1643,  and 
has  ever  since  been  distinguished  by  the  name  of  Nar^ 
ihumberland  House.    Bernard  Jansen  was  the  architect. 
The  mansion  originally  consisted  of  hree  sides  of  a 
quadrangle,  and  the  principal  apartments  were  in  the 
upper  story  next  the  Strand,  but  the  noise  and  hufry 
of  so  great  a  thoroughfare  being  unpleasant,  the  Earl 
caused  a  fourth  side  to  be' erected,  under  the  inspection 
of  Jnigo  Joned,  which,  commanding  a  view  over  a  spa- 
cious garden  and  the  Surry  Hills,  unites  the  advantage 
of  a  palace  situated  in  the  mid^t  of  a  large  and  popu- 
lous city,  with  the  retiremetit  of  a  country-seat.    Be- 
aides  other  improvements,  the  whole  of  the  front  next 
the  street  was  nearly  rebuilt  about  1750.    The  central 
part  only  received  some  trifling  alteration,  and  may 
therefore  be  considered  as  a  valuable  remnant  of  the 
original  pile.    On  the  summit  is  a  fine  carved  lion/Kis- 
$ani  ;   the  crest  of  the  nobk  family  of  Percy.    The 
vestibule  of  the  interior  is  eighty-two  feet  long,  and 
more  than  twelve  in  breadth,  ortiameuted  with  Doric 
columns.    Each  end  communicates  with  a  staircase, 
leading  to  the  principal  apartments  facing  the  Thames, 
and  embellished  with  paintings,  by  Titian,  particularly 
the  Comaro  family,  and  the  works  of  other  great  mas- 
ters.   The  state-gallery  on  the  left  is  one  hundred  and 
six  feet  long,  most  beautifully  ornamented ;  and  here 
are  above  one  hundred  and  fifty  rooms,  appropriated 
for  the  several  uses  of  the  family.    The  garden  lies 
between  the  house  and  Scotland-Yard,  and  forms  « 
pleasing  kind  of  acenery  before  the  principal  apartments; 


»'  r   .  : 


'^if   I..'.t     .     , 


I  1 


^ 


WALKS   THROUGH   LONDON.  195 

In  this  bouse  the  £arl  of  Northumberland,  durin{^  the 
inUrregnumy  received  General  Monk,  and  had  a  con- 
ference with  hiai  and  several  of  the  leading  persons  of 
the  nation,  when  Charles  the  Second  was  for  the  first 
time  proposed  in  direct  terms,  as  a  measure  absolutely 
necessary  for  the  peace  and  tranquillity  of  the  kingdom. 
Nearer  to  Charing  Cross  was  an  ancient  hermitage, 
withachapel  dedicated  to  St.  Catharine;  this  hermitage, 
in  1262,  bdonged  to  the  see  of  LlandafF.     A  few  sur- 
rounding houses,  it  is  said,  constituted  the  hamlet  of 
Charing,   where  Edward  the  First  built  a  beautiful 
wooden  cross,  as  a  testimony  of  his  respect  for  his  be* 
loved  Queen  Eleanor ;  it  was  afterwards  constructed  of 
.stone,  and  appears  to  have  been  of  an  octagonal  form, 
and  in  an  upper  stage  decorated  with  eight  figures :  the 
whole,  however,  was  levelled  by  the  intemperate  fury 
of  the  bigots  during  the  Reformation.     Notwithstand- 
ing common  fame  has  supposed  a  village  or  hamlet, 
called  Ckaring,  6n  this  spot,  previous  to  the  death  of 
Eleanor,  the  Queen  of  Edward  the  First,  this  is  now 
asserted  to  have  been  an  error,  and,  on  the  other  hand,  it 
is  affirmed  that  the  spot  was  afterwards  called  Charing, 
from  the  circumstance  of  its  having  been  the  resting- 
place  of  the  remains  of  the  Ckitre  tleyne,  the  dearly- 
beloved  Queen.    In  fact,  it  does  not  appear  that  there 
was  any  village  on  the  spot,  either  before  or  after  the 
event  that  caused  the  erection  of  the  cross.     If  any 
argument  was  wanting  to  establish  the  probability  of 
this  conjecture,  it  would  be  worth  observing,  that  in  a 
View,  published  in  the  Antiquarian  Repertory,  after 
the  supposed  village  of  Charing  was  placed  here,  not 
more  than  a  house  or  two  appear  on  the  spot,  Opon 
which  an  increasing  number  of  them  would  naturally 
have  been  found.  In  thid  View,  on  the  left  of  the  Obser- 
ver, isapubjic-house,  with  some  largetrees before  it,  and 
one  or  two  small  cottages;  probably  all  that  ever  gave 
birth  to  the  report  of  the  village  of  Charing  situated  here. 


196  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

Charing  Crass,  properly  so  called,  wb?,  about  the  year 
1633,  replaced  by  a  moit  beautiAil  and  animated  statue 
in  brass,  of  Charles  the  First,  by  Le  Scenr,  though  it  was 
not  restored  in  its  present  state  till  1678,  when  it  was  placed 
on  the  pedestal,  the  work  of  Grinlin  Gibbons.  The  Rump 
ParUament  had  previously  ordered  it  to  be  sold  and 
broken  to  pieces ;  but  John  River,  the  brazier  who  pur* 
chased  it,  having  more  taste  or  more  loyalty  than  his 
masteri»,  buried  it  uumutilated,  and  shewed  them  some 
broken  pieces  of  brass,  in  token  of  his  obedience. 
Charles  the  First  is  most  admirably  represented  in  ar- 
mour with  his  own  hair,  uncovered,  on  horseback. 
The  figures  are  brass,  looking  towards  Whitehall,  and 
are  as  large  as  life.  The  pedestal  is  seventeen  feet  high, 
enriched  with  the  arms  of  England,  trophies,  cupids,  palm 
branches,  &c.  enclosed  with  a  rail  and  banister  of  iron-> 
work ;  the  pedestal  is  erected  in  the  centre  of  a  circle 
of  stone,  thirty  feet  in  diameter;  its  area  being  one  step 
above  that  of  the  street,  fenced  with  strong  posts,  to 
keep  off  coaches,  carts,  &c. 

The  Mews. — The  north  side  of  Charing  Cross  was 
iqppointed  for  keeping  the  king's  falcons  as  early  as 
the  reign  of  Richard  the  Second.  The  royal  stables  at 
Lomesbury,  since  called  Bhomslmry,  being  destroyed 
by  fire  in  the  year  \6S7,  Henry  the  Eighth  caused  the 
hawks  to  be  removed,  and  this  place  to  be  fitted  up  for 
the  royal  stables.  In  the  reign  of  George  the  Second, 
Che  old  part  of  the  building  being  decayed,  his  miyesty 
caused  the  north  side  to  be  rebuilt  in  a  magnificent 
manner,  in  1732. 

Behind  the  Mews  is  Casile-Sireei,  in  which,  is  a  li- 
brary, founded,  in  1685,  by  Dr.  Tennison,  Vicar  of  St. 
Martin's,  afterwards  Archbishop  of  Canterbury,  for  the 
use  of  the  parish  and  his  school,  over  which  it  is  placed, 
and  consists  of  about  five  thousand  volumes. 

Retumipg  through  the  Mews  to  Charing  Cross,  is 


»■ 

.# 


•••.•r-i."- 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  197 

Craig^s  Court,  containing  the  principal  office  belonging 
to  the  San  Fire  Insurance  Company. 

Scotland  Yard  anciently  contained  a  palace  for  the 
king)}  of  Scotland,  given  by  King  Edgar  to  Kenneth  the 
Third,  for  the  humiliating  purpose  of  obliging  him  to 
make  an  annual  journey  to  do  homage  for  his  kingdom. 
In  aflertiraes,  when  the  northern  monarchs  did  homage 
for  Cumberland  and  other  fiefs  of  the  crown,  it  became 
at  length  a  magnificent  edifice ;  and  Margaret,  widow 
of  James  the  Fiflh,  and  sister  to  Henry  the  Eighth  of 
England,  made  it  her  residence  a  considerable  time 
after  her  consort's  death.  When  the  two  crowns  of 
England  and  Scotland  became  united  in  the  person  of 
James  the  First,  this  palace  was  deserted  for  those  of  St. 
James's  and  Whitehall, and,  having  been  demolished,  no 
remains  can  be  traced,  or  the  exact  place  where  it  stood. 

Opposite  was  situate  Wallingford  House,  built  by 
William  Lord  KnoUys,  Viscount  Wallingford,  in  the 
second  year  of  Charles  the  First.  It  was  from  the  roof 
of  this  building  that  the  pious  Archbishop  Usher  was 
prevailed  upon  to  take  the  last  sight  of  his  beloved  80« 
vereign,  when  brought  on  the  scaffold  before  White- 
hall. In  the  reign  of  William  the  Third  this  house  was 
appointed  for  the  Admiralty  Office,  which  had  been  re- 
moved from  Duke-Street,  Westminster.  This  structure, 
rebuilt  in  the  reign  of  George  the  Second,  by  Ripley,, 
is  a  magnificent  edifice  of  brick  and  stone.  The  front, 
facing  the  street,  has  two  deep  wings,  and  a  very  lofly 
portico,  supported  by  four  massy  stone  pillars.  Besides 
the  hall,  and  appropriate  offices  for  transacting  mari- 
time concerns,  there  were  built  seven  large  houses  for 
the  Lords  Commissioners,  who  are  ready  on  the  spot  in 
case  of  urgent  business.  The  wall  before  the  court 
was  built  in  an  elegant  manner  by  the  Adams ;  and  a 
beautiful  piazza,  with  a  stately  gateway  in  the  centre, 
surmounted  with  marine  ornaments,  screens  the  fabric 
from  the  noise  of  a  public  street.    The  new  house  that 


196  WALKS  TUBOUOB    LONDOIT. 

has  lately  been  erected  here,  for  the  habitation  of  Sir 
George  Warrender,  one  of  the  Lords  of  the  Admi- 
ralty, is  stated  to  have  cost  20,000/.  During  the  late 
war,  the  telegraphs  on  the  top  of  this  building  were 
very  frequently  occupied  in  receiving  and  coinmuni-> 
.  eating  intelligence  from  the  sea-ports. 

The  Hone  Guard*  constitute  a  noble  modem  ediBce, 
which  consists  of  a  centre  and  two  wings.  In  the  centre 
are  arched  passages  into  St.  James's  Park,  under  the  I 

principal  of  which  the  King  passes  when  he  goes  in  | 

state  to  the  House  of  Peers.     On  each  side  there  are  i 

pavilions  and  stables  for  the  use  of  the  horse-guacds  or 
other  troops.  A  cupola,  upon  the  summit  of  the  build* 
ing,  serves  to  break  the  plainness  without  injuring  the 
harmony  of  the  structure.  The  wings  are  plainer  than  the 
centre ;  they  consist  of  a  front,  with  a  small  prelection ; 
the  windows  in  the  principal  story  are  ornamented;  but 
those  on  the  sides  are  plain.  Each  has  a  pediment, 
with  a  circular  window  in  the  middle;  and  under  the 
two  pavilions  in  front  of  the  street,  centinels  mounted 
and  in  uniform,  constantly  do  duty.  The  various  offices 
for  the  War  Department  are  in  this  building. 

Aclloiuing  is  Mclboum- House,  built  by  Sir  Matthew 
Featherstonehaugh,  and  allerwards  purchased  by  Lord 
Melbourn,  who  exchanged  it  with  Hi^  Royal  Highness 
the  Duke  of  York,  for  York-House,  Piccadilly,  who 
added  the  fronts  and  the  dome^portico  across  the  street. 
When  the  Duke  removed  to  Portman-Square,  the  house 
was  restored  to  Lord  Melbourn. 

.The  Ojfices  qf  the  Treatuty  are  contiguous;  this  is  a 
handsome  stone  building,  fronting  the  Parade  in  Si. 
James's  Park.  The  whole  front  is  rustic,  and  consists 
of  three  stories;  the  lower  Tuscan,  and  the  second  Doric, 
with  gopd*8ized  arched  windows.  The  dipper  part  4>f 
thi&atory  is  singularly  adorned  with  the  try  glyphs  and 
metopes  of  the  Doric  freeze,  though  this  range  of  orna- 
ment is  supported  neither  by  columns  nor  ptlastera. 


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WALKS   THKOUCH   LONDON.  199 

A  nnge  of  Ionic  columns  above  this  supports  a  pedi-- 
ment  Near  the  Treasury  is  the  house  usually  appointed 
0  r  the  residence  of  the  prime  minister.  A  passage  to  the 
public  street  before  Whitehall,  under  the  Cockpit,  is  es- 
teemed a  part  of  the  ancient  palace.  A  little  northward 
from  this  entrance  was  the  beautiful  gate  belonging  to 
this  palace,  built  by  order  of  Heory  the  £ighth,  from  a 
design  of  Hans  Holbein,  enclosing  the  Tilt  Yardi  &c.  . 

WkitehaU,  originally  built  by  Hubert  de  Burgh,  Earl 
of  Kent,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the  Third,  was,  at  hia- 
death,  l)equeathed  by  him  to  the  Black  Friars  of  Lon* 
don;  from  them  coming  to  Walter  De  Grey,  Arch-^ 
bishop  of  York,  it  became  the  town-residence  of  the- 
archbisbops  of  that  see;  till  passing  from  the 
haughty  Thomas  Wolsey,  the  Cardinal,  it  came  into- 
the  handii  of  the  crown,  and  was  formed  into  one  of 
the  royal  palaces. 

The  old  palace  occupied  a  space  along  the  northern 
hank  of  the  river,  a  little  below  Westminster  Bridge,, 
and  extended  to  St.  James's  Park,  along  the  eastern 
end  of  which  many  of  its  various  buildings  lay,  from 
the  Cockpit  to  Spring  Gardens.  At  present,  that  part 
of  it  which  was  along  the  river  is  occupied  by  the  houses 
of  the  Earl  of  Liverpool,  the  Duke  of  Buccleugh,  and 
others.  The  ancient  building,  which  contained  upwards 
of  1000  apartments,  was  mostly  consumed  by  a  fire, 
which  broke  out  in  the  year  1697. 

The  Banqueting-Houte,  now  remaining^  derived  its 
name  from  an  old  building,  which,  in  the  time  of 
Elizabeth,  served  for  public  entertainments.  This 
edifice  was  built  by  James  the  Firs^  and  is  the 
work  of  Inigo  Jones,  in  bis  best  manner.  It  was  part 
only  of  a  vast  and  magnificent  plan,  left  uaexecuted  by 
reason  of  the  troubles  which  followed.  It  is  a  stone 
edifice  of  two  stories,  ornamented  with  columns  and 
pilasters,  with  their  entablatures;  and  has  an  air  <rf 
grandeur  and  sweetness,  the  united  effect  of  which  is 
extremely  fine.    The  great  room  of  this  edifice  tu» 


200  WALIU  THROUGH  LONDON. 

been  converted  into  a  cbapel,  in*  which  service  is  per« 
formed  in  the  morning  and  evening  of  every  Sunday ; 
George  the  Fir»l  having  granted  a  f^alary  of  thirty 
pounds  per  annum  to  twelve  clergymen,  selected 
equally  from  Oxford  and  Cambridge,  who  officiate 
each  one  month  in  the  year.  It  is  much  attended  by 
persons  of  quality.  ll)e  ceiling  of  this  room  was  painted 
by  Rubens.  The  subject  is  the  Apotheosis  of  James 
the  First,  which  is  treated  in  nine  compartments;  and 
Vandyke  was  to  have  painted  the  sides  with  the  history 
of  the  Order  of  the  Garter.  The  ceiling  was  very  ably 
re-touched,  a  few  years  since,  by  Cipriani.  The  Ban- 
queting-House  cost  17,000/.;  the  painting  of  the  ceiling 
3000/.;  and  Cipriani  had  2000/.  for  re^touching  it. 
In  the  court  behind  the  Bauqueting-House  is  a  statue, 
in  brass,  of  James  the  Second,  by  Grinlin  Gibbons. 
It  is  a  fine  performance,  possessing  grace  and  dignity 
in  a  superior  degree.  In  front  of  the  Banqueting- 
House,  on  a  8Ca(R>1d,  Charles  the  First  was  beheaded, 
on  the  30th  of  January,  1648-9.  His  Majesty  passed 
from  the  Banqueting-House  to  the  scaffold  through  one 
of  the  windows. 

In  Whitehall-Chapel  have  been  deposited  the  eagles, 
colours,  and  other  trophies  obtained  from  the  French 
during  the  late  revolutionary  war.  This  took  place, 
with  great  ceremony,  on  the  18th  of  May,  1811 ;  and 
in  January  1816,  the  eagles  taken  at  the  battle  of  Wa- 
terloo were  placed  here. 

It  is  to  be  observed,  that  as  Whitehall  used  to  be 
considered  the  principal  palace,  and  the  rest  only 
appendages  to  it,  it  still  maintains  its  ancient  imaginary 
consequence ;  the  great  offices  of  state  ai*e  kept  in  the 
detached  edifices,  and  all  public  business  is  dated 
from  Whitehall. 

Before  we  quit  this  place,  we  should  notice  the  brazen 
statue  of  James  the  Second,  by  Grinlin  Gibbons;  the 
attitude  is  fine,  the  manner  free  and  easy,  the  execution 
finished  and  perfect;  and  the  expression  of  the  face  is 


WALKS  TmOVOH  LOMDOlf.  Ml 

inimitable,  as  it  depicts  the  tery  loal  of  the  unbappy 
monarch  whom  it  is  intended  to  commemorate.  Among 
ether  improvements  near  the  spot,  the  wall  formerly  ex- 
tending along  Parliament*8treet  has  been  taken  down« 
and  an  iron  railing,  with  shrubberies,  erected  before 
the  several  houses,  which  gives  the  whole  an  airy  and 
lively  appearance. 

Advancing  southward  through  Parliament-Street,  an 
avenue  which  has  been  made  since  the  construction  of 
Westminster-Bridge,  we  arrive  at  Cannon-Row,  formerly 
called  St.  Stephen's  Alley,  from  iu  being  the  residence 
of  the  Deau  and  Canons  of  St  Stephen's  collegiate 
chapel.  Upon  the  dissolution  of  the  college  by  Henrys 
the  Eighth,  the  site  was  occupied  by  several  of  the 
nobility  and  gentry,  who  buiH  bouses  and  laid  out  gar- 
dens towards  the  river.  Derby-House  stood  upon  what 
was  afterwards  called  Derby-Court  Opposite  to  this 
Henry  Clinton,  Earl  of  Lincoln,  had  a  handsome  house, 
as  had  ako  the  Sackville  family.  Earls  of  Dorset,  whose 
name  is  still  preserved  in  Dorset-Square.  The  Earl  of 
Manchester's  house  was  in  what  is  now  called  Man- 
chester Buildings,  adjoining  to  which  is  Bridge  Court, 
and  Bridge-Street.  Cannon-Row  now  contains  the 
New  Transport  Office.  This  building  is  upon  a  solid 
commodious  plan;  both  fronts  are  faced  with  stone, 
and  are  simply  elegant ;  and  the  interior  is  well  calculated 
for  the  management  of  an  extensive  public  business. 

Wettmimter-Bridge  is  a  structure  of  that  simplicity 
and  grandeur,  that,  whether  viewed  from  the  water,  or 
by  the  land-passenger,  it  fills  the  mind  with  admiration; 
Ibe  twenty-eight  semi-octangular  towers  forming  the 
recesses  in  the  footway,  the  manner  in  which  the  1amp» 
are  placed,  and  the  height  of  the  balustrades,  are  at 
once  judiciously  and  beautifully  contrived.  This  bridge 
is  regarded  by  architects  as  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in 
the  world.  It  was  begun  in  the  year  1738,  and  finished 
in  1750,  and  cost  389,500/.    Tlie  whole  of  the  super- 


20i  WALKS  THBOUGH    LONDON. 

structure  is  of  Portland  stone,  except  the  spandrib  of 
the  arches.  It  is  1223  feet  long,  and  44 feet  wide; 
has  fifteen  large  semicircular  arches.  The  cen- 
tral arch  is  seventy-six  feet  wide;  the  other  archea 
decreasing  in  width  five  feet.  The  quantity  of  stone 
used  in  this  bridge  is  said  to  have  been  nearly  double  to 
what  was  employed  in  St.  Paul's  Cathedral. 

Before  this  bridge  was  built,  the  houses  in  this  part 
of  Westminster  were  very  ruinous.  Many  of  these  were 
probably  built  about  Le  WoUtaple,  held  in  New  Palace- 
Yard.  Henry  the  Sixth  had  no  less  than  six  wool-houses 
in  this  place ;  and  the  conflux  of  people  towards  this 
wool-market  caused  such  an  increase,  that  in  time  the 
royal  village  of  Westminster  became  a  town. 

The  ancient  clock-house  or  tower  stood  opposite 
Westminster- Hall  Gate :  the  tower  being  demolished  in 
1715,  the  great  bell,  or  Old  Tom  of  Wesminster,  was 
granted  to  the  clock  of  the  new  cathedral  of  Su  Paul. 
On  the  old  bell  was  inscribed, 

Tercios  ipt^bit  me  Bex  fidoiurdqiM  vocavit, 
SaocU  decore  Edouardi  sigocrctor  ot  bore : 

meaning,  that  Edward  the  Third  gave  this  bell,  in  order 
that  the  hours  of  prayer,  appointed  by  Edward  the 
Confessor,  might  be  properly  observed.  The  rang^  of 
ancient  buildings  on  the  south  side  of  this  quadrangle 
next  the  Thames,  belonged  to  the  Court  of  Star-chamber, 
a  court  so  shamefully  abused  as  to  be  abolished  in  the 
reign  of  Charles  the  First,  and  never  since  restored. 

Westmifutei'Hall  was  built  by  William  Rufus  as  a 
banqueting-bouse  to  the  palace,  which  then  stood  in 
Old  Palace-Yard;  but  old  Westminster- Hall  was  pulled 
down,  and  the  present  edifice  erected  in  its  stead,  in 
^e  year  1397.  This  ancient  building  is  of  stone,  the 
front  ornamented  with  two  towers,  adorned  with  carved 
work.    The  hall  within  is  reckoned  the  largest  room  in 


fe/   .1.1 


•v^  •.':••; 


...    .    ,\   , 


-I  •  •  -t.      'I     ■  . 


'  T  If.  ■;,.■_:: 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  90S 

Europe,  being  270  feet  in  length,  and  seTenty-four  in 
breadth.  The  pavement  is  of  »tone,  and  the  roof  of 
chesnut  wood.  It  wa.«  formerly  covered  with  lead,  but 
thia  being  found  too  weighty,  it  has  been  slated  for 
many  years  past.  In  entering  the  hall  at  the  front 
gate,  there  are  stairs  on  each  !$ide  adjoining  to  the  wall; 
the  right  leading  to  the  Court  of  Exchequer,  and  the 
lefl  to  the  office  where  the  revenue  is  paid  in,  called  the 
Receipt  of  the  Exchequer.  The  Court  qf  Common 
Pleas  is  on  the  west  side,  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the 
hall,  and  was  established  by  Magna  Charta  in  the  year 
1215,  bcinof  before  ambulatory,  in  following  the  king. 
J%e  Court  of  Chancery  is  so  called  from  the  Latin  word 
Cancelli,  or  a  screen,  within  which  the  judges  sat  to 
determine  causes,  without  being  annoyed  by  the  spec- 
tators. TTie  Court  (if  King's  Beiu:h  is  situated  directly 
opposite  the  Court  of  Chancery,  and  is  so  called  from  a 
high  bench  on  which  our  ancient  monarchs  usually  sat 
in  person,  whilst  the  judges  to  whom  the  judicature  was 
deputed  in  their  absence,  sat  on  lower  benches  at  their 
ftet. 

The  situation  of  the  exterior  of  this  hall  is  still  a 
subject  of  regret  with  the  antiquary,  in  the  poor  muti- 
lated headless  figures  which  occupy  Several  niches  on 
the  outside ;  but  they  are  fast  sinking  to  utter  decay, 
as  are  also  the  arms  and  other  decorations  that  once 
adorned  the  gate  and  walls  of  this  ancient  building.  The 
arms  of  Edward  the  Confessor  are,  however,  here  and 
there  plainly  to  be  made  out ;  as  are  also  several  roses, 
portcullises,  quatrefoils,  cinquefoils,  shields,  &c. 

A  dark  passage  from  the  south-east  corner  of  the 
Hall  lately  led  to  St.  Stephen's  Chapel- Yard  and  Old 
Palace  Yard.  From  this  part  the  beautiful  ancient 
cloisters  may  be  observed,  with  their  rich-groined 
arches  and  sculptured  key-stones.  Before  this  Hall  was 
anciently  a  handsome  conduit  or  fountain,  with  nu- 
merous spouts,  whence,  on  occasions  of  rejoicing,  streams 


ti04  WALKS   TBBOUGH   JLONDON* 

of  wine  issued  to  the  populace;  at  other  times  the  ia- 
habitants  received  tlie  waste  water  from  this  source  for. 
their  domestic  uses. 

New  Palace  Yard,  was  so  called  on  account  of  its 
being  the  site  of  the  palace  which  Richard  the  Second 
added  to  the  more  ancient  building,  and  called  it  the 
New  Palace,  for  distinction  sake. 

Adjoining  to  the  south-east  angle  of  Westminster- 
Hatl  are  the  remains  of  St,  Stephens  Chapel,  first  erected 
by  King  Stephen ;  but  being  rebuilt  by  Edward  the 
Third,  in  1347,  he  made  it  collegiate,  and  built  for  its 
use,  in  the  Little  Sanctuary,  a  strong  clochier  or  bell 
tower,  covered  with  lead,  and  containing  three  large 
bells,  which  were  usually  rung  at  coronations,  funerals, 
&c.  Near  this  was  another  smaller  chapel,  dedicated 
to  Our  Lady  of  the  Pew,  burnt  down  in  the  reign  of 
Richard  the  Second.  After  the  surrender  of  St.  Ste- 
phen's chapel  to  Edward  the  Sixth,  that  paonarch  gave 
permission  that  it  should  be  converted  to  a  chamber  of 
parliament.  The  west  fiont  of  this  venerable  chapel  is 
still  neariy  entire,  and  has  a  fme  Gothic  window  of 
great  size  and  beauty.  The  Speaker's  house  is  joined 
to,  and  may  be  almost  said  to  form  a  part  of  the  Houae 
of  Commons  itself.  This  house  was  a  small  court  of 
the  palace,  but  has  of  late  years  been  greatly  altered, 
enlarged,  and  beautified,  upder  the  direction  of  Mr. 
Wyatt,  who,  to  a  stuccoed  front,  has  added  two  pin- 
nacles at  the  east  end.  An  old  view  from  the  Thames, 
taken  before  the  towers  of  the  Abbey  were,  erected, 
represented  St.  Stephen's  chapel  with  pinnacled  but- 
tresses  on  the  sides  and  angles,  and  double  ranges  of 
windows,  fairly  marked  with  ramified  mulUons ;  this 
part  is  now  adorned  by  the  most  minute  ornaments  and 
tracery,  in  the  pointed  style  of  Henry  the  Eighth,  by. 
Mr.  Wyatt,  in  a  new  lime,  which  is  moulded,  and 
congeals  instantaneously.  The  front  of  the  building, 
next  the  river  has  partaken  of  the  same  decoration; 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  205 

but  none  of  these  modem  antiques  can  compensate  for 
the  demolition  of  the  original  ornaments  of  St.  Ste- 
phen's chapel. 

The  Hov$e  of  Commons.  This  may  now  be  entered 
from  the  Speaker's  house  by  a  passage  which  has  been 
made  for  the  purpose ;  the  whole  front  of  this  house 
next  the  street  has  been  rebuilt  in  its  present  Gothic 
style,  and  cased  with  stucco.  Beneath  the  house,  in 
passages  or  apartments,  are  considerable  remains,  in 
great  perfection,  of  an  under  chapel,  and  the  entire 
side  of  a  cloister ;  the  roof  of  this  is  scarcely  surpassed 
by  that  of  Henry  the  Seventh  for  richness  and  beauty. 

Mr.  Wyatt's  front  of  the  House  of  Commons  con* 
•ists  of  an  elegant  colonade,  &c.  which  connects  the 
entrance  to  both  houses.  Within  are  rooms  for  the 
great  officers  of  state,  and  numerous  committee  rooms 
for  the  Tarious  business  requiring  separation  from  the 
hottsev  The  floor  of  the  house  was  newly  laid  in  the 
course  of  1816 ;  and  a  new  fire-place,  or  rather  a  Rus- 
sian stove,  has  been  placed  in  the  lobby,  which,  without 
being  seen,  will  emit  considerable  heat. 

Tke  House  qf  Lards  is  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Commons,  adjoining  the  Hall.  It  is  an  oblong  room, 
rather  less  than  that  in  which  the  Commons  meet ;  this, 
as  well  as  the  other  house,  was  repaired  and  beautified 
on  the  occasion  of  the  Union  with  Ireland.  In  the  front 
next  to  Abingdon-Street  it  is  decorated  with  pinnacles ; 
and  though  by  no  means  a  splendid  room,  it  is  never- 
theless very  handsome.  The  old  canopy  of  state  under 
which  the  throne  is  placed,  remains  as  it  was  before 
the  Union,  excepting  that  its  tarnished  state  is  rendered 
more  conspicuous  by  the  arms  of  the  United  Kingdoms 
being  inserted  into  the  old  stuff  embroidered  with  silk, 
with  silver  supporters.  The  throne  is  an  armed  chair, 
elegantly  carved  and  gilt,  ornamented  with  crimson 
velvet  and  silvet  embroidery.    The  doors  of  the  offices 


206  WALKS  THROUGH  LOHOOH. 

round  the  house  have  been  lately  painted  green  and 
white;  and  the  site  of  the  ground  behind  the  West* 
minster  Sessions  House,  has  been  entirely  cleared  of  the 
old  decayed  buildings,  and  a  fine  opening  made  from 
that  to  Princts-Street. 

Between  the  House  of  Lords  and  the  House  of  Com- 
mons is  the  Painted  Chamber,  said  to  have  been  Edward 
the  Confessor's  bed-chamber :  conferences  are  some- 
times held  here  between  the  two  houses  or  their  com- 
mittees. The  vast  mass  of  buildings  in  the  Old  and 
and  New  Palace- Yards  constituted  the  ancient  palace 
of  the  monarchs  of  England,  erected  by  Edward  the 
Confessor ;  these  being  mostly  consumed  by  a  fire  in 
the  year  1512>  the  Court  afterwards  removed  to  White^ 
hall  and  St.  James's. 

In  St,  Margaret's  Street  is  a  respectable  stone  building 
for  the  committee-rooms  and  offices  belonging  to  the 
House  of  Commons.  Proceeding  through  Abingdcm^ 
Street,  the  furthest  extent  of  the  city  of  London  is  at 
Milhank.  Here  Peterborough- House  was  occupied  by 
the  Earls  of  Peterborough,  and  by  the  Grosvenor 
family  within  the  last  half  century.  The  fiUing  up  of 
the  marsh  on  the  right-hand  side  proceeding  towards 
Chelsea,  with  the  number  of  new  buildings,  have  nearly 
destroyed  this  pleasant  walk,  once  bounded  by  the 
ThUmes  and  its  willows  on  one  side,  and  by  fields,  gar- 
dens, and  a  number  of  small  neat  dwellings  on  the  other. 

The  church  of  St,  John  the  Evangelist  is  on  the  west 
side  of  Milbank-Street.  On  the  north  and  south  side» 
of  this  edifice  are  magnificent  porticos,  supported  by 
vast^stone  pillars,  as  is  also  the  roof  of  the  church.  At 
each  of  the  four  corners  is  a  beautiful  stone  tower,  and 
pinnacle :  for  the  church  beginning  to  sink  while  H 
was  building  in  1721,  these  additions  were  erected,  in 
order  that  the  whole  might  sink  equally.  The  parts 
of  this  building  are  held  together  by  iron  bars,  which 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDOIf.  907 

even  cross  the  aisles !  The  elegant  portico^  in  front, 
IS  supported  by  Doric  pillars.  Passing  into  IV^on- 
Sireet  is  a  bouse,  which  Mr.  Moser  says  was  the  resi- 
dence of  Colonel  Blood,  after  he  had  stolen  the  crown 
from  the  Tower.  It  is  distinguished  by  having  a  shield 
upon  the  brick  work  over  the  first  story,  from  which 
the  arras  are  now  obliterated.  **  In  this  street  there 
b  a  building  devoted  to  the  brutal  and  unmanly  prac- 
tice of  cock-fighting.  It  is  a  large  circular  area,  with 
a  slightly  elevated  platform  in  the  centre,  surrounded 
by  benches  rising  in  gradation  nearly  to  the  top  of  the 
building."  In  Peter-Street  is  the  gasometer  and  works 
belonging  to  the  Gas  Light  and  Coke  Ompamf, 

Proceeding  towards  Vauxh all-Bridge  we  come  to 
the  Milbank  Penitentiary,  for  the  reception  of  convicts 
and  others,  who  are  to  be  confined  here  in  lieu  of  being 
sent  to  the  hulks.  This  building,  which  has  some  re- 
semblance in  Its  exterior  to  the  House  of  Correction 
in  Cold  Bath  Fields,  is  walled  round,  and  though  built 
of  brick,  has  much  of  the  appearance  of  a  fortification ; 
and  though  not  finished,  it  already  covers  considerably 
more  than  twelve  acres  of  ground.  The  entrance  is 
very  faandsome,  having  the  word  Penitentiary,  in  very 
large  letters,  placed  over  the  gateway,  which  leads  into 
a  spacious  area.    Mr.  Harvey  is  the  architect. 

The  rooms  in  which  the  convicts  will  reside,  are  as 
comfortable  as  can  be  expected  by  individuals  who  have 
forfeited  their  claim  to  remain  at  large :  they  are  about 
twelve  feet  by  six,  lofty,  with  an  arch.  Each  cell  is 
fornished  with  an  iron  bedstead,  a  mattrass,  a  coarse 
sheet,  pair  of  blankets,  bolster,  and  a  rug ;  also  a  table 
with  a  drawer  in  it,  and  a  chair.  The  windows  are 
glazed  inside,  and  iron  rails  or  bars  outside.  The  whole 
of  them  are  warmed  by  means  of  flues  placed  in  the 
passages^  and  proper  measures  are  adopted  to  insure 
regular  ventilation.  The  rooms  all  look  towards  the 
tentre  of  a  circle  (which  is  divided  by  brick  walb  into 


£06  WALKS    THROUGH   LONDON. 

court-yards  for  exerci8e)j  where  the  princi|)al  Task* 
master  resides,  and  commands  a  complete  view  of  aU 
that  is  doing.  Women  are  to  act  as  turnkeys  to  the 
female  prii^oners,  and  all  communication  with  the  male 
convicts  will  be  entirely  prevented. 

The  chapel  is  very  large  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  committee,  officers,  and  prisoners.  There  are  schools 
for  religious  and  moral  instruction;  the  latter  upon 
Dr.  Bell's  plan,  under  the  immediate  superintendance 
of  the  chaplain,  who  distributes  amongst  them,  ac- 
cording to  his  discretion,  religious  books,  at  the  ex- 
pence  of  the  establishment.  He  keeps  a  journal  of 
observation,  and  daily  sees  and  converses  with  the  pri- 
soners as  to  the  state  of  their  minds,  and  gives  spiritual 
advice  to  the  sick,  and  to  all  who  require  it  The 
governor  and  matron  also  keep  a  journal  of  observation, 
and  though  the  prisoners  are  treated  with  the  greatest 
kindness,  yet  the  management  of  the  prison  is  so  con- 
ducted, that  they  must  feel,  in  a  proper  degree,  the 
punishment  of  being  confined. 

From  Lady-day  to  Michaelmas,  the  prisoners  who 
are  in  health,  rise  at  half  past  five,  and  at  day-break 
during  the  remainder  of  the  year.  Half  an  hour  is 
allowed  them  for  dressing  and  washing — then  they 
commence  their  work.  At  nine  o'clock  they  have  their 
breakfast ;  at  half  past  nine  they  re^^ume  their  work. 
At  one  o'clock  their  dinners  are  distributed  among 
them^  and  an  hour  is  allowed  for  dinner,  air,  and  exer- 
cise; at  two  o'clock  they  return  to  work.  At  six 
o'clock  in  summer,  and  at  sun-set  in  winter,  they  leave 
off  work.  In  the  winter  all  t))e  prisoners  are  then 
locked  into  their  night  cells,  except  on  the  evenings  ou 
which  they  are  assembled  for  the  purpose  of  religious 
and  moral  instruction.  In  the  summer  montha  they 
are  not  locked  up  till  seven  o'clock,  an  hour  being  al- 
lowed during  these  months  for  air  and  exercise  in  the 
courts.    Immediately  after  they  are  locked  up  in  their 


WALKS   TH BOUGH    CONDON.  909 

teparate  cells  for  the  nig^ht^  their  suppers  are  delivered 
to  them. 

On  a  Sunday  they  rise  at  seven  from  Lady-day  to 
Michaelmai),  and  at  eight  during  the  remainder  of  Che 
year.  They  attend  the  chapel  twice  in  the  day,  are 
allowed  a  considerable  time  between  the  hours  of  Divine 
Service  and  the  time  allotted  for  their  private  religious 
instruction,  for  air  and  exercise.  Soon  after  they  leave 
the  chapel  in  the  evening,  they  are  locked  up  in  their 
night  cells,  that  those  who  are  so  disposed  may  have 
an  opportunity  of  improving  themselves  by  reading  and 
reflection. — ^They  are  frequently  examined  publicly  in 
the  chapel  as  to  the  progress  they  have  made  in  their 
religious  instruction. 

When  walking  in  the  courts  they  are  always  under 
the  inspection  of  a  turnkey,  who  must  attend  to  their 
behaviour,  and  prevent  their  loitering  and  standing 
still  for  the  purpose  of  conversation,  instead  of  taking 
such  exercise  as  may  be  essential  to  their  health. 

Dresi. — First  class,  yellow  and  brown  ;  second  class, 
green  and  brown — made  of  cheap  and  coarse  materials* 
with  such  marks  or  peculiarities  as  may  tend  to  facilitate 
discovery  in  case  of  escape. 

No  strangers  are  admitted  to  see  any  part  of  the 
prison  in  the  occupation  of  prisoners,  unless  by  an 
order  from  His  Majesty's  Principal  Secretary  of  State 
for  the  Home  Department,  or  unless  accompanied  by 
a  Member  of  the  Committee. 

No  prisoners^  during  the  period  of  their  confinement* 
are  permitted  to  see  their  friends*  unless  by  an  order  from 
the  Committee  or  from  the  Visitor.  This  indulgence 
is  granted  only  to  such  prisoners  whose  conduct*  on 
reference  to  the  Chaplain*  Governor*  and  Master  Manu* 
facturer  (or  Matron*  if  a  female  prisoner)*  may  appear 
to  entitle  them  to.such  favour.  The  interview  between 
the  prisoners  and  their  friends  can  only  take  place  in 
the  presence  of  an  officer  of  the  prison.  If  any  prisoner 


9M)         WALKS  THBOVCB  LONDON* 

be  dan^eroudy^  ill  in  the  inBrmary,  he  or  ib^  may,  at 
the  discretioD  of  the  Chaplain »  be  viftited  by  hit  or  bcr 
friends.  No  provisions  or  Ucjuors  are  aUowedto  be  cod* 
yeyed  into  the  prison  by  any  friends  of  the  pHsoDen. 

The  prisoners  are  allowed  a  per  centags  on  their 
work.  The  Governor  Biay»  with  the  consent  of  the 
Committee,  indulge  industrious  prisoners  by  allowii^ 
them  to  work  after  the  hours  appointed  for  labour. 

Pri^ners  of  the  second  class  may  be  reported  to  the 
i^retarji  of  State,  for  the  Home  Deparment,  in  con* 
sequence  of  any  extraordiaary  diligence,  in  order  tba^ 
they  may  be  recommended  by  him  as  ot^ccts  of  the 
Royal  Mercy. 

We  now  return  to  fVestminsier  Abbey,  or  the  Abbey 
Church  of  3t.  Peter.  As  our  limits  prevent  us  from 
going,  jEar  into  the  history  of  this  edi%ei  suffice  it  to 
remark,  that  it  was  first  erected  by  Sebert,  King  of  the 
East  Saxons,  about  616,  .and  after  the  ravages,  of  the 
Danes,  by  Edgar,  in  969,  and  lastly,  re-erected  entirely 
by.  Edward  the  Confessor,  in  1065.  Benry  the  Third, 
about  1220,  buiJt  a  chapel  to  the  Blessed  Virgin,  then 
called  the  New  Woi:k  at  Westminster;  and,  ab«jut 
twenty  years  after,  finding  the  waits  and  steeple  of  tb^ 
o|4  structure  jmucb  decayed,.,  b^  caus^  the  whole  to 
bc^  pi^ed  down,  intending,  tQcehuiid  the  fabric  ia  a 
mpre  reguli^r  msMHier ;  bpt  h?  dyiogi  it  was  not  C(»a*i 
pleted  r^ill  fo^rUse;n  ye^rs  afl^,;.  |(us  i«  tl^edate  of  tho 
present  building.  Henry  thaS^veo^. began  the  mag« 
i^(icent. structure  b^w^g  his. name,. about  the  year 
1503,.  when  he  pulle4<down  Henry-  the  .Third^s  ch^)el« 
s^nd  aaaAJoiQiog  houae  called  the  White  Rose  Tavern.) 
hut  no  very  material  alterations  were  made  in  the  out^ 
ward  atructm^,  after  the  death  of  Henry  the  Seventh* 
till  the  reign  of  George  the  Second,  when  it  waa 
thoroughly  repair^  at  the  nationsliexpence.  The  whole 
has  been  new  coated  on  the  outside,  except  Henry  the 
l^eveath!s  chapel;,  and  the  west  end  adorned  with  .two 


WALKS  TH1OVG0   LONtPOX.  -911 

flctst^  tofrert.'  In  newirtg  the  outside,  theattetitioh  fs 
p«rticiilarly  engageil  by  the  magnificent  portico  of  the 
n<Wl1i  cro$s,  ^hich  has  lieen  styled  tfab  Beautifkl  oh 
Sohmon'M  Gate.  This  portico;  probably  bnilt  by  Richard 
tiie  iSecondy  has  been  beantified ;  and  over  it  is  a  window 
of  modem  date/ finely  executed.  On  the  South  side  is  ^ 
window  set  up  in  1705.  The  bnildihg  within  the  walb 
is  90d  feet  I6ng;  the  nate  73  feet  briiad,  and  at  the  crosl 
195. '  The  Gothic  arches  and  side  aisles  'are  supported 
by  forty-eight  piltars  of  ^y  marble,  each  composed  of 
slender  clusters,  corered  with  ornaments.  On  entering 
the  west  door,  the  whole  body  of  the  church  presents 
itsctf  at  one  riew  ;  the  pillars  dividing  the  nave  frond 
the  side  aisfes  being  s6  contrived  a^  not  to  obstruct  iht 
nde^kypentngs ;  nor  is  the  sight  terminated  to  the  east 
bot'by  the  fine  painted  windows  over  Edward  the  Con^ 
ftssdrS  Chapel ;  ihdtbe  pillars  terminate  towards  tb^ 
eiBt  'by  i  sw^,  enclosing  this  chapd  In  a  kind  of 
scfnH<<ircle.  Thite  pHlars,  as  far  as'  the'  gateft  of  the 
dldir/are  filletted  with^brass,  but  all  beyond  Widk  stonel 
Itf^dmfontiity  to  tbe'middle  ra^ge  of  pillars;  there  tttt 
others  in  the  waR/w^idi,  as  they  rise,  spring  into  semt^ 
ardh^,  and  tnkud  ^  acute  ahgles  wtth  their  oppdaiteil'^ 
wliidi;'  iH*  the  rdof,  are  adorned  whh  a  TaKety  of 
carvings.  'At  the  bottom  of  the  wiills,  between  the  piUars^ 
are  shallow  niches,  arcbed  about  eight  or  ten  feet  high, 
in'^hich  the  arms  of  the  original  benefactors  are  de* 
pUsttA ;  round  these  are  their  titles,  &c.  but  they  ar6 
mUttiy  'tonceftied  by  the  tnonuments.  On  the  archek 
of  the  jiillars  lire  gallerties  of  double  cohimfts  fifteed  hei 
wide,  'covering  th^  side  aisles,  and  enlightened  by  % 
middle  range  of  windows,  over  which  is  an  upper  range 
still  larger;  these,  with  the  four  capital  windows  facing 
the  north,  east,  south*  and  west,  enlighten  the  whol6 
iahri4^  in  an  admirable  manner.  The  choir  is  a  late 
hnprovement,  and  made  more  commodious  for  the  cele-> 
bration  of  divine  worship,  performed  every  day  at  ten 
in  the  morning,  and  at  three  in  the  afternoon.   Round 


919  WALKS  THBOUGH   LONDON. 

.the  choir  are  eleven  chapels.  In  that  of  St.  Boiedict 
is  an  ancient  tomb  railed  in«  and  containing  the  effigy 
.of  Archbishop  Langham^  who  had  been  a  monk,  prior* 
and  abbot  of  Westminster. 

Behind  the  altar  is  the  Chapel  ef  St,  Edward  M< 
Confessor,  It  extends  to  the  fourth  western  pillar,  and 
is  formed  by  the  circular  sweep  of  <the  east  end  of  die 
choir.  This  chapel  is  ascended  by  ten  wooden  steps. 
The  pavement  was  at  one  time  of  exquisite  workman- 
ship ;  but  the  constant  tread  of  visitors,  and  the  depre- 
dations of  idle  persons  in  many  places,  have  almost 
worn  away  the  stone  from  the  marbles  inlaid  upon 
them.  The  ground-work  of  this  fine  pavement  consists 
of  large  irregular  dark  stones,  cut  into  circles  inter- 
secting others,  triangles  within  triangles,  and  many 
other  geometrical  figures  which  are  filled  with  thousands 
of  pieces  in  the  above  shapes,  of  the  same  valuable 
materials  that  compose  the  pavement  above  the  altar. 
In  this  chapel  is  the  ancient  shrine  of  St.  Edward,  once, 
the  glory  of  England*  but  now  neglected,  defaced,  and 
much  abused.  A  few  traces  of  it  exist,  but  they  aie 
Bcarcely  perceptible.  Only  two  of  its  spiral  pillars  n- 
main ;  the  westecn*  and  a  capital  at  the  east,  and  one 
of  these  is  in  a  very  precarious  state..  The  wooden 
Ionic  top  is  much  broken  and  covered  with  dust;  the 
Mosaic  is  picked  away  in  almost  every  part  within 
reach,  and  the  Latin  inscription  upon  the  architrave, 
is  only  legible  in  part.  The  shrine,  the  production  of 
Pietro  Calvalini,  was  erected  by  Henry  the  Third,  upon 
the  canonization  of  Edward ;  and  this  king  waa  the 
)ast  of  the  Saxon  race.  "  Before  the  Confessor's  sbrin^" 
Mc.  Pennant  observes,  *'  the  jpo/ia  opima  seem  to  have 
been  ofi&red.  The  Scottish  regalia,  and  their  sacred 
chair  from  Scone,  were  offered  here ;  and  Aipbonao, 
third  son  to  Edward  the  First,  who  died  in  his  child- 
liood,  presented  the  golden  coronet  of  the  unfortunate 
Welsh  prince»  the  last  Llewelyn^    The  Coronation 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON; 


213- 


Chair,  repre^nted  in  the  wood  ciit«  is  preserved  in  this 
•hapel. 


The  most  ancient  of  the  coronation  chairs  was 
brought  with  the  regalia  from  Scotland,  by  Edward  the 
Fim,  m  the  year  1297,  after  he  had  overcome  John 
Baliol,  King  of  Scots,  in  several  battles,  and  offered 
here.  The  stone  under  the  seat,  of  an  oblong  shape, 
and  a  rough  cast,  is  reported  to  have  been  Jacob's  pillow. 
The  other  chair  was  made  for  Queen  Mary  the  Second ; 
and  at  coronations,  one  or  both  of  these  are  covered 
with  gold  tissue,  and  placed  before  the  altar,  in  the 
cboir.  In  this  chapel  is  the  long  rusty  iron  sword  of 
Edward  the  Pirst ;  and  the  wooden  part  of  his  shield, ' 
broken  and  patched,  rests  on  his  tomb. 

*'  Fourteen  legendary  hieroglyphics-  respecting  the ' 
ConfeMor,  appear  round  the  frieze  of  the  chapel-screen : 
they  are  extremely  rude  pieces  of  workmanship.  They 


214  wALfcs  TiqtQycB  londok* 

d/escribe  respectiy^y,  the,  trial  of  Qqeen  EaiiiHi;  the 
birth  of  Edward;  that  monarch's  coronation;  the 
story  of  his  being  frightened  into  the  abolition  of 
the  Danegeh,  by  seeing  the  devil  dance  upon  the  money 
bags ;  the  story  of  his  winking  at  the  thief  who  was 
robbing  his  treasury;  the  miraculous  appearance  of 
the  Saviour  to  him ;  the  story  of  the  drowning  of  the 
Danish  King,  by  which  the  inrasion  of  England  was 
prevented;  the  quarrel  between  the  boys  Tosti  and 
Harold,  predicting  their  respective  fates;  the  Con- 
fessor's vision  of  the  Seven  Sleepers ;  his  vision  of  St. 
John  the  Evangelist,'  m  the  habit  of  a  pilgrim ;  the 
story  of  curing  the  eyes  of  the  blind,  by  washing  in 
the  Evangelist's  dirty  water;  the  Evangelist  dehvering 
a  ring  to  the  pilgrims ;  the  pilgrims  delivering  the  ring 
to  the  king,  which  he  had  inadvertently  given  to  St. 
John  as  an  alms,  when  he  met  him  in  the  form  of  a 
pilgrim;  this  was  attended,''  continues  the  legend, 
"  with  a  message  from  the  Saint,  foretelling  the  death 
of  the  king  :  lastly,  the  consequential  haste  made  by 
him  to  complete  his  pious  foundation."  These  basso- 
relievos  were  between  fifteen  quatrefoils,  but  one  is 
gone;  every  ot^cr,  wMb  a  shield^  .l^afi.a  black  label 
alqng  the  bottom- 1       >        i*     .     !       > 

The  screen  (;9pt4jn^g  fhpsf;  ^h^lpal  memorials  was 
ornament^  with  <)eer  aqdsw^s  ji^h^iiiied  to  a  beacon;  a 
female  figure  j^ith  an.  animal  pn.l^r  knees  and  painted 
shields  of  arms;  but  -they  ar^  almost  obliterated.  Se» 
veral  iron  hooks  are  1^,  from  which  it  i$  supposed  lamps 
used  to  be  suspended.  From  this  part  buttresses  ascend; 
between  them  were  canopi^*  exce^isgly  rich  (three  of 
thf^se  are  destroyed).  The  niches  vary  in  size. '  Seidell 
are  for  %ures  large  as  life ;  the  ipid<Ue  qtalpe  is  re» 
moved.  The  others  are  a  man  kneeling  at  bis  devo- 
tions; a  King  erect  prayii)g;  St.  Geoifge  ii|.4i:mour 
pifrgmg  the  dragon's  diroat ;  a  femsile  sea^sd  with  1^ 
h*9tn^SjCr98sedj  anot)ier  monarch. an4  St  Dioaysiuswbo 


WALKB  THROUGH  LONDON.  315 

carried  hb  head  after  his  decapitation.     Over  the  place 
where  the  altar  of  this  Chapel  stood  are  thirty  statues  in' 
four  rangea;  they  are  moch  broken  and  decayed.     Of 
the  armour  of  Henry  the  Fifth  which  once  hung  round 
this  Oratory,  nothing  remains  but  a  plain  rusty  iron  hel- 
met, part  of  a  saddle,  and  a  t;hield  without  any  symp- 
tom of  royalty  about  them.    Ascending  the  parapet  fa- 
cing th€<  toinbof  St.  Edward,  still'  lies  the  stone  coffin  oF 
that«aint,  firmly  bound  with  ironi  aiid  coVered  with  dust. 
On  the  south  side  of  the  shrine  just  described,  lies 
Editha,  daughter  of  Good Wyn,  Earl  of  Kent,  and  Queen 
of  9l!.  Edward;  i^h^died  in  U18.     Here  is  also  the 
totnb'of  llenry  the  Third  and  that  of  his  son  Edward 
the  First,  surnamed  Long  Shanks.   .  The  Society  of  An- 
tiM|iiariea  ha? ing  discovered,  in  reading  Rymer*s  Pcpdera, 
that  this  monarch  was  enclosed  in  wax,  in  a  stone  cofTm 
here,  to  satisfy  their  curiosity,  applied  to  Dr.  l^othas, 
UeanoF  Westminster,  for  leave  to  have  the  tomb  opened. 
This  being  readily  granted,  in  the  month  of  May  1770, 
tlie  Dean,  with' about  fifteen  of  the  Society,  attended, 
when  on  lifting  the  lid  of  the  tomb,  the  royal  body 
waa  fbund  as  described,  wrapped  in  a  strong  thick  linen 
cloth  wafted  on  the  innde:  the  heAd  and  face  were  co- 
vered with  a  sudwium,  or  fftce-cloth,  of  crimson  sarsnet, 
wrapped  in  three  fold*;  and  the  body  "was  wrapped  in 
fine  cerecloth,  closely  fitted  to  every  part,  even  to  the 
fingera  and  face.    Over  thig  clolh  was  a  tunic  of  red 
silk  damask ;  zbove  that  a  stole  of  thick  white  tissue 
crossed  the  breast,  and  on  this,  at  six  inches  distant  * 
fitmi  eaeh  other,  qaatrefoils  of  filligre  work  of  gilt  me- 
tal, sctwithfake  stoaes,  imitating  rubies,  sapphires,  ame- 
ikftU,  fto<   The  intervals  between  these  quatrefoils  were 
pawdaned  with  minute  white  beads,  tacked  down  in  the 
matt  alegaot  eurbroidery,  in  form  v/ot  unlike  a  true- 
lorer'a  k»ot.    Above  these  was  the  royal  mantle  af 
rich  citeiton*  satin,  fastened  on  the  left  shoulder  with  a 
mtpificeoKjAuU  irf  gilt  metal,  richly  chased  and  or* 


216  WALKS  THIOUCH  LONDON. 

namented  with  several  pieces  of  red  and  four  of  blue 
transparent  paste*  with  twenty-four  more  of  pearl.  The 
corpse,  from  the  waist  downwards,  was  covered  with  a 
rich  cloth  of  figured  gold,  faUing  down  to  the  feet,  and 
tacked  beneath  them.  On  the  back  of  each  hand  was 
a  quatrefoil  like  those  on  the  stole.  In  the  king's  rig^t 
hand  was  a  sceptre  of  copper  gilt,  and  of  elegant  work« 
mansfaip,  reaching  to  the  Moulders;  in  the  left,  the  rod 
and  the  dove,  which  passed  over  the  shoulder,  and 
reached  his  ear.  The  dove  stood  on  a  ball,  placed  on 
three  ranges  of  oak  leaves,  of  enamelled  green ;  the 
dove  was  white  enamd.  On  the  head  was  a  crown, 
charged  with  trefoils,  made  of  gilt  metal.  The  head 
was  lodged  in  a  cavity  of  the  stone  coffin,  always  obser- 
vable in  those  receptacles  of  the  dead :  the  royal  corpse  > 
measured  six  feet  two  inches.  The  rest  of  the  Royal 
monuments  in  this  chapel,  which  our  limits  prohibit 
us  from  describing,  are  higbly  worthy  the  notice  of 
the  curious. 

Henry  the  Seventh's  Chapel,  which  has  been  styled 
the  Wonder  of  the  World,  is  adorned  with  sixteen  Go- 
thic towers,  beautifully  ornamented,  and  projecting 
from  the  building  in  difierent  angles.  It  is  situated  to 
the  east  of  the  Abbey,  to  which  it  is  so  neatly  joined, 
that,  upon  a  superficial  view,  it  would  seem  to  be  one 
and  the  same  building :  it  is  enlightened  by  a  double 
range  of  windows.  In  the  towers  are  niches,  upon 
which  stood  a  number  of  statues,  till  removed  by  order 
of  the  Rump  Parliament ;  and  these  towers  are  joined 
to  the  roof  by  Gothic  arches.  The  ascent  to  the  inside 
is  by  steps  of  black  marble,  leading  to  the  gates, 
which  open  to  the  body  or  nave  of  the  Chapel :  a 
door  on  each  hand  leads  to  the  side  aisles.  The  gates 
of  the  nave  are  of  brass,  curiously  wrought  in  the 
m|nner  of  frame  work,  having  in  every  other  open 
pannel,  a  rose  and  a  portcullis,  alternately.  The  lolly 
ceiling  is  wrought  with  an  astonishing  variety  of  figures 


WALKS  THIOUOH  LONDON.  3l7 

and  frei  work,  and  the  stalk  art;  of  brown  wainscot, 
with  Gothic  canopies.  The  east  view,  from  tbe  en- 
trance, presenU  the  brass  cbapel  and  tomb  of  the 
ibunder;  aod  round  it,  where  this  end  fonns  a  semi- 
circle, are  the  Chapels  of  the  Dukes  of  Bnckingham 
and  Richmond.  The  walls,  as  well  as  the  nave>  are 
wrought  into  the  most  curious  imagery,  and  contain  one 
hundred  and  twenty  large  statute  of  patriarchs,  saints, 
martyrs,  and  confessors,  besides  angels  and  other  inno* 
merable  small  figures.  The  numerous  windows  were 
formerly  of  painted  or  diapered  glass,  having  in  erery 
pane  a  white  rose,  the  badge  of  Lancaster,  or  an  H, 
the  initial  of  the  founder's  name.  The  length  of  this 
Chapel  within  is  ninety-nine  feet,  the  breadth  twenty* 
six,  and  the  height  fifly-four. 

In  a  more  detailed  description  of  this  wonderAil 
piece  of  architecture,  it  is  observed,  ^  some  new  per- 
fections may  be  discovered  afler  the  fiftieth  examina- 
tion; and  first  the  gates  of  brass.  The  great  gate  is 
divided  into  sixty  perfect  squares,  and  five  imperfect 
ones;  these  contain  pierced  crowns  and  portcullises, 
the  King's  initials,  fleur  de  lis,  an  eagle,  three  thistles 
qiringing  through  a  coronet,  their  stalks  terminating 
in  seven  feathers,  three  lions,  and  a  crown,  supported 
by  sprigs  of  roses:  on  each  division  of  the  gate  is  a 
rose,  and  between  them  dragons ;  some  of  these  are 
broken  off.  The  smaller  gates  conUin  twenty-eight 
squares  each,  with  the  above-mentioned  emblems ;  the 
two  pillars  between  the  gates  are  twice  filletted,  and 
the  capitals  are  foliage :  the  animals,  badges  of  the  King, 
hold  fanciful  shields  on  them,  but  have  lost  their  heads, 
and  are  otherwise  mutilated.  The  angles  of  the  three 
arches  are  filled  with  lozenges,  circles,  and  quatrefoils, 
witharose  in  the  centreof  the  latter.  Fourteen  figuresof 
angels,habiiedasbishop4  and  priests,  and  crowned, extend 
acioss  the  naye :  the  two  comer  ones  are  hidden  by  the 
canopies  orer  the  respective  sUlls  of  Prince  Frederick 


916  WALKS    THIOUGH    tORIMII. 

(the  Dake  of  Yock)  and  ibe  kiag:'ft  gtall,  bearing  the  flag 
of  England  and  France ;  this  canopy  has  no  crest  From 
hence  to  the  roof  the  space  is  filled  by  a  great  window 
of  many  compartments,  so  much  intersected  and  arched, 
that  a  description  would  not  be  comprehended-:  the 
lofrer  part  id  blank ;  the  upper  contains  figures  in  painted 
glaas,  crosses  or  crowns,  and>fleur«de^lis/  single  feathers 
of  the  Princeof  YTales^s  ettst,  red.  and  blveroantlo, 
portculhses,  crowns  and  garter:^  crowns  and  the  Md 
rOBC/  two  roses  or 'wheels  full  of  red^  blue,  and  yeUow 
gtes.  But  littW  light  passes,  through  this  wiMlow,it  is 
SO' near  the  end  of  the  Abbey^<  and  corered  with^vst 
Several  fragments  of  pinnacles* of  glass  remain  in  the 
arches  of  the  lower  divisions,  which  were  parts  of  tke 
canopies  over  saints.  The  side  aisles  have  four  arohetf, 
hid;  by  the  stalk;  the  clustered  pillatiB  between  then« 
five  innutnber,  support  great  arches  on  4herobfv*eac4i 
of  which  have  twenty-three  •small  semi*qaatrefoi1  arches 
on  their  surfitcci  and  two  rioh  pehdantsor  drops  » thens 
are  five  small  drops,  in  the  cent««.'^  FourwiiidM*, 
vei^  like  the  western,  fill  the  spaces  next  the  roof  ;»iii 
of' them,  more  or  less,  containing  painted  glass,  and 
red,  yellow,  4ind  bloepanes.  Five  of  the  wtnidowa  wat^ 
restored  in  ISKS.  £xoe4Ient,  ihdeed^  are  the  canopies^ 
ntches,  and  statues  under  these  y  attd  beventy^hree  star 
tOCA  in  this  chapel  are  all  so  varied  in  their  attitudety 
features,  anddrapery,  that  it  ia  impomble  to- say  «iy 
two  9te  alike.  ^  The  disposition  of  their  limbs  is  shewn 
through  the  clothing,  end  the  folds  of  their  robea  fell 
in  those  bold  adOrked  lines,  which  are  the  characteristics 
of  superior  sculpture  and  painting.-   • 

The  ChajUcr-House,  built  in  1^60,  is  on  the  east  side 
of  the  cloisters ;  for  its  sUne  roof,  timber  was  afterwards 
substituted.  Beneath  -is  a  very  singular  crjrpt,  the  waifs 
of  which  are  eighteen  feet  tliick^  jEind  form  a  firm  base 
t6  the  siipentnicture.-  The  Jenuaiem  Chamber  was  an^ 
cientty  part  of  the  abbct'a  lodgings,  and  is  femooQ  ^Mf 


y 


vr^ 


19r4a>ICa.TllSOVG3   LOKBOV.  219 

being  the   place  io  which  the  ambitious  Henry  the 
Fourth  endeiJ  a  life  of  anxiety.  ... 

Wettminsicr'School,  erected  about  the  year  1070,  was 

rcfoonded  by  Queen  Elizabeth  in  1560,  for  a  head  and 

second  master,  and  for  forty  students,  called  **  King's 

scholara/'  and  twelve  almsmen.  Tbe  broad  part,  on  (be 

north  side  of  the  Abbey^  was  ;^pointed  aa  a  Sanctuary  ; 

tbe  church  belonging  to  it  was  in  the  form  of  a  ccoes 

UKfA  doiible,  the  one  being  built  over,  tbe  othec^    Br. 

I^ukeley,  who  remembered  Ustanditig,  says  rit.wa^of 

gReat  strength,  and  was  not  demuolisbed  without  gnelit 

bl^rj  and  ^s  supposed  to  have  been  tbeworkof  Ifae  Csn- 

/osor.  Wcistminster  Market  rose  on  thesite  otftbia  ancient 

fabrijc;  and  this  being  long  di$used|.waa  taken. down. to 

make  room  for  tbe  new  G^Mhali.  for  the  city  .and 

IV^crty- cf  Westminster.  .   ^  ,f      '       .  ^;.;:  > 

:  I^  cjpfluig  tbis^  brief  accoutit  oXithe  SVb^ft  hy  a  De> 

view  of  its ^^terior,  as  it  now  appears,. it. may  be  libr 

served^  "  the  great  dOor«wi$  is  of  i  considerable,  depth, 

and  contracts  inwards.   Tbcsides  are  Qounp^^sedoCpasih. 

wik,  and  tbe  roof  intersected  withmimarouKnbs.^  On 

e^ch  .sid^  /Qf  the  door  are  pedestals^  in  empty  niehei, 

wiih  sbietds  in  qualrefoils..benc«lh  thtnu  .Acoenice 

eiAende  over  tbe  1»bole,.oo  which  are  tennidhes,  aqpa* 

r^ted  by  smaU  fafuttressea;  they  axe  without atatnesii  and 

their  canopies  are  cones,  foliaged  and  pinnacled.  Ahore 

t\fif^  is  siDM^yber  cornice  of  a  doubtful  «ider:  the  King^s, 

and  eight  otber.coatsof  arms,.  adotn>  the  frieze  aM^e 

it'.   Hence  ailMsesithe  great  window,  before^mentioned  I 

iti,has  a  bordfar  of  eight  .pointed  enriched  pannelsi  >a 

l^ilgpe.  benvy  Dorpnice  6¥es>  it,  and  a  frieze,  inscribed 

Georg\s  II.   A^D.  J736;    The  roof  is  pointed^  atod 

c^otaipsasmaH  win()ow.  Twogmt buttresses strengibtn 

the  tQwcrsj.  aiid  affe'considerableomainents,  with>)t'wo 

ranges,  of' canopied  niches^ .anfiMlunaiely  deprived  iof 

t^e  sUVtues  on.lheir  frbnts.    Each  tower  has  prcjisctiHg 

wii^.  pinnelled.    The .  knrer  .windows  are  pointed; 


990  WALKS  THBOUCH  LONDOV. 

those  above  them  arches,  only  filled  with  quatrefoils  and 
circles.  It  is  from  this  part  that  the  incongniity  of  the 
new  design  begins  in  a  Tuscan  cornice ;  then  a  Gr^an 
pediment,  and  enrichments  over  the  dial  of  the  clack, 
with  a  plain  window,  pannels,  and  battlements.  The 
truly  great  and  excellent  architect.  Sir  Christopher 
Wren,  reprobates  irreconcileable  mixtures  in  such  de- 
signs; "  I  shall  speedily  prepare  perfect  drafts  and 
models,  such  as  I  conceive  proper  to  agree  with  the 
original  scheme  of  the  architect,  without  any  modem 
mixtures  to  shew  my  inventions/'  The  ancient  front 
of  the  Jerusalem  Chamber  obstructs  the  view  of  the 
south  tower ;  it  has  a  square  window  of  a  horizontal 
direction,  and  three  upright  mullions,  with  a  battle- 
ment repaired  with  bricks.  The  wall  extends  some 
distance  westward,  when  it  terminates  in  modernized 
houses,  against  the  end  of  which  is  the  ruin  of  a  great 
arch  of  decayed  stone,  leading  to  Dean^s  Yard. 

The  north  side  of  the  Abbey  has  nine  buttresses, 
each  of  five  gradations,  with  windows  to  the  side  aisles, 
and  over  them  semi-windows  filled  with  quatrefeil. 
These  buttresses  join  the  nave  by  slender  arches ;  the 
wall  finishes  with  battlements.  The  niches  on  the  but- 
tresses still  remain,  though  there  are  but  four  statues, 
which  appear  but  little  injured,  and  are  excellent 
figures. 

What  Sir  Christopher  Wren  said  of  the  north  side, 
nearly  one  hundred  years  past,  is  strictly  descriptive 
at  this  moment — ''  The  stone  is  decayed  four  inches 
deep,  and  falls  off  perpetually  in  great  scales.''  And 
so  indeed  has  the  casing  intended  to  repair  it  from  the 
north  transept  to  the  towers,  leaving  a  decayed,  cor- 
roded, and  weather-beaten  surface,  half  black,  and 
half  the  colour  of  the  stones.  The  front  of  the  transept 
is  less  iiyured,  because  most  of  the  heavy  rains  are 
from  the  west ;  and  the  north  sides  remain  perfectly 
smooth  and  good,  as  Sir  Christopher  Wren  left  them. 


TK.' 


A/A-^iW  *>  fejUu^hJk'm3: -^Jv-t^  fiJ- 'ju^r 


I., It    • 


.         ...1     ' 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  M 

The  great  door  it  an  arch  from  four  large  pUlars  on  each 
side,  whose  capitals  are  singularly  beautiful.  Within 
them  is  a  range  of  ten  circles,  enclosing,  stars  on  the 
TooC  and  on  the  sides  arched  pannels.  The  wall  is  of 
considerable  thickness,  adorned  by  six  columns  on  both 
sides.  The  space  over  the  principal  entrance  has  a  vast 
circle  of  circles,  and  within  it  another  of  pointed  pan- 
nels; and  in  a  third,  others  with  the  arms  of  Edward 
the  Confessor  for  a  centre.  Above  the  whole  is  a  range 
of  pierced  arches.  Four  enormous  buttresses  secure 
the  front ;  those  at  the  angles  terminate  in  octagons, 
and  connect  with  the  upper  part  of  the  walls,  over  the 
side  aisles,  by  strong  arches. 

All  the  chapels  that  project  on  the  north-east  and 
south-east,  are  in  their  designs  like  the  body  of  the 
church  ;  those  to  the  north  are  enclosed  by  a  row  of 
handsome  houses,  so  near  *'  that  there  is  no  room  left 
for  raising  of  scafiblds  and  ladders,  nor  for  a  passage 
for  bringing  materials.''  This  was  the  complaint  of 
Sir  Christopher,  who  abo  hoped  the  sovereign  power 
would  take  compassion  on  the  chapel  of  St.  Mary,  the 
sepulture  of  the  royal  family. 

.  All  these  earnest  wishes  of  this  great  man  are  now  in 
the  fairest  way  of  being  soon  realized ;  the  work  of 
renovation  is  far  advanced,  and  already  excites  the  at- 
tention of  every  foreigner.  The  repairs  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Abbey  are  still  perfect  The  chapter-house, 
which  hides  all  the  south  end  of  the  transept,  is  pro- 
tected on  the  east  by  a  vast  pierced  buttress,  with  very 
large  pointed  windows,  now  filled  up :  they  had  each 
one  mullion,  in  the  shape  of  the  letter  Y.  A  very  tran- 
sient and  imperfect  sight  is  to  be  obtained  of  the  front 
of  the  transept,  and  that  from  the  cloistars  only;  four 
huge  buttresses  support  it :  the  six  buttresses  on  the 
outside  of  the  nave  have  their  bases  without  the  walls 
of  the  cloister.  *'  This  manner  of  contriving  them,'' 
Sir'  Christopher  Wren  says,  "  was  the  work  of  a  bold 


.WACKf^  TBSOUOM  .LOMDOIf. 

bubif^oniUlarcfaitfeet,  for  aattenag*  the  hQuUnr  of  tBe 


:Att!heen(f«noe«f*Uiei'cfaii8tert  firom  >llieim'«  VMI, 
mach  i«niAi»s  of  die  wtObof  the  original  buitdiUgs; 
and  where  nsh  windows  and  olher  'alterations  ate 
not  intrdduced^  they  bear  all  the  marks  of  iienerafale 
agefatid  decays  >  Dean's  Yard  iscertainiy  an  odd'tnixture 
of  decay ed  gruidciir.  There  is  a  silent  niokiastic  air  in 
l}pc  small  court  from  wtnloh  ia  the  entrance  to  the  Jeru- 
salem chamber^  whsch  has  also  undergone  various 
altetationsv  f>'<Mn  the  Reformation  Uf  the  present  timei 
U  is  now  used  for  a  Chapter-honsej  The  picture  of 
Richard  the  Second^  so  often  engraved,  now  adonn 
this  room ;  and,  with  some  tapestry,  an  old  chimney- 
pi^ce;  and  aiittle  pointed  g)a^>  remind  the  atitiquaiy 
of  past  days.: 

*  (Pwoanti^ehambeni  are  hiore  in  their  original  state; 
in-'OM^  is  a  handsonve  niche,  the  Abbot's  Hull  is  on 
th^^W<nt<m  side,  and  contains  a  g:aller^ ;  at  the  south 
eiMl/  eaM  of  Yhe'pslssage  leading'  to  the  school,  is  a  long 
«tei6Dt  buildiiig,  wh^sfse  basement  stdry  is  roofed  with 
semi*circu1ar  groined  arches,  arising  from  pillars  with 
hatidsoitA!  capitals.  At  the  north  end,  the  Regalia  is 
•aid  to  have  -l^^  kept.  The  uppet  story  is  used  as 
the'achool-roi^itt.  Thns'  bcriUHng,  if  we  may  pronounce 
fl^Mtf  tlk^  Sftxioki'st^Wi^the  most  ancient  in  the  pre> 
dtltsta  of  the*  Abbeyl  Very  little  is  left  of  the  lesser 
okiiltcfs*  '  K<ttr 'it  is  another  portion  or  room  of  ec|ual 
antHqUity.  The  {^lace  here  in  which'  the  records  bf  the 
H<Ws^*<>f  Lorils  we^e  kept,  Was  originally  a  great  tower, 
but  isyiow  greaitly  altered,  as  is  likewise  the  inside  of 
theXHd  Chapter  Hoosei  to  make  room  for  the  Treasury 
Recordp  '6f  (he  Exchequer  and  Domesday  Book.  The 
roof,  as  usual  in  such  buildings,  is  supported  by  a 
central  column ;  but  the  galleries,  shelves,  and  presses, 
defy  description.  However,  fragments  in  some  phees, 
and  large  portions  in  others  of  waH^  gates,  &c.  may 


>ljb..i     .     .'.-■^M 


ar 


WAULS   TBBOVOB    LOHAON.  898 

be  found  in  nanj  directions,  by  which  meMis  the«B- 
oient  enclosure  'of  these  extensive  buildings  might  be 
traced  with  considerable  accuracy.  >>  « 

•  We  must  paM  over  the  monuments,  &c.  in  the  inte- 
rior, aa  being  in  themselves  almost  sufficient  to  occupy 
a  small  volume.  •      i 

We  now  firocecdto  St.  Jamei*9  Poriir,  which  is  of  an 
oblong  form,  and  nearly  two  miles*  in  oircumferenee^ 
The  beauty  of  this  park  Is  heightened  by  the  prospect 
of  theOreen  Park,  separated  from  ijtby  an  v^oh  railing, 
but  which  ^dually  rises  into  a  fine  verdint  eminenca^ 
cidled  Constitution  Hill.  The  Gree^  Park  extends  to 
PicGwlilly^  and  leads  to  Hyde  Park.  In  St  James's 
Park  the  guards  parade  every  day  between  ten  ahd 
eleven  o'clock ;  this*  with  a  full  band,  of  music,  renders 
it  very  hvely  and  attractive*  Oil  the  nurUi.side  oC.tb^ 
parade,  within  a  rAataii«-^-^iae<&nce»j$  tbe,.cele^ 
brated  piece  of  Turkish. /SfdnliMe^  repcesented  in  the 
wpod  cut.  .''••.. 


It  is  of  great  length,  and  was  Uken  by  the  British 
tfoopa  at  Alexandria  in  Egypt*  during  the  revolutionary 
w4r.  It  is  mounts  on  a  ve^  handsome  carriage,  or- 
namented with  hieroglyphics. 

St.  James's  Park  atifoids  many  pleasant  Walks,  and  iit 


394  WALKS   THROUGH   L0HI>ON. 

a  grand  thoroughfare  from  London  and  Weitmliuter  to 
Chelsea,  Kensington,  Sec.  At  the  east  end,  facmg  llie 
Treasury,  is  the  spacious  parade  for  the  exercise  of  the 
horse  and  foot-guards.  This  spot  has  lately  received 
the  singular  emhellishment,  known  by  the  common 
appellation  of  the  Prince  Regent's  Bomb.  The  history 
of  this  celebrated  piece  of  ordnance,  which  was  first 
exposed  to  public  view  on  the  13th  of  August  1816^ 
is  as  follows : 

.  In  1812,  the  city  of  Cadiz  having  endured  a  long 
siege  by  the  French,  it  was  raised  on  the  34th  and  35th 
of  August,  when,  amongst  the  artillery  abandoned  by 
the  French  to  the  Spaniards,  was  an  enormous  mortar, 
which,  being  left  spiked,  was,  with  one  of  smaller  di* 
mensions,  presented  by  the  Cortes  to  the  Prince  Regent* 
It  had  been  employed  in  throwing  shells  the  immense 
distance  of  three  miles ;  and>it  has  actually  thrown  to 
the  distance  of  three  miles  and  a  half. 

Soon  after  its  arrival  at  Woolwich,  orders  were  issued 
for  constructing  an  appropriate  carriage.  An  emblem 
has  been  selected  (in  allegorical  allusion  to  the  means  by 
which  the  siege  of  Cadiz  was  terminated)  from  the 
labours  of  Hercules,  who  destroyed  the  monster  Geryon, 
tlie  tyrant  of  the  isle  of  Gades,  thus  figuratively  de* 
scribing  the  raising  of  the  siege,  and  to  illustrate  the 
fame  of  the  hero,  who  had  broken  the  enchantment  of 
the  modern  Geryon. 

Some  liberties  have  been  taken  with  the  principal 
figure,  in  substituting  wings  for  the  heads ;  the-  tails 
twist  round  to  the  vent,  in  order  to  convey  the  scorpion 
fire.  The  heads  of  the  tyrant's  guardian  dog  are  re- 
presented in  the  alternate  state  of  activity  and  repose^ 
to  denote  eternal  watchfulness. 

Its  station  being  fixed  on  the  Parade  in  St  James's 
P^rk,  a  few  yards  from  the  iron  railing  enclosing  the 
canal,  and  immediately  opposite  the  centre  of  the 
Horse-Guards,  the  work  proceeded  within  a  canvas 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  925 

enclosure.  On  Thonday,  August  2,  the  mortar  was 
lilted  on  a  carriage,  cast  in  gun-metal,  under  the  direc- 
of  General  Cuppage.  It  was  four  years  in  completing. 
On  the  breech  of  the  gun  is  the  founder's  inscrip- 
tion: 

*'  No.  7>890— Grille,  1 1  de  Maroo,  1811." 

The  length  of  the  mortar  is  eight  feet ;  the  diameter 
of  its  bore  at  the  mouth  is  twelve  inches ;  its  weight, 
five  tons.-«The  pedestal  is  nine  feet  long,  four  feet 
wide,  two  feet  eight  inches  high,  and  weighs  five  Ions 
and  a  half:  it  was  cast  all  in  one  piece.  The  total 
weight  of  the  mortar,  its  carriage,  and  pedestal,  is  about 
fifteen  tons.  The  height  of  the  whole,  from  the  ground, 
is  about  nine  feet  and  a  half.  The  mouth  of  the  mortar 
points  at  an  elevation  of  forty-three  degrees  over  the 
Horse-Guards.  The  front  of  the  pedestal  bears  the 
Prince's  plume  of  feathers  in  alto-relievo.  The  following 
are  in  raised  brass  letters : — 

INSCBimON  ON  THB  BACK   OP  THE   PBOBSTAL  : 

"  Coostrnctcd  in  the  CarHage  Department,  Rojral  Anenal,  Sasl 
of  MuLOBAVE,  Master-General,  1814." 

INBCBIPTION  ON  TBB  tOUTB  STDB,  NEXT  WBSTX I NSTBB  ABBEY : 

Devictia,  a  WELLINGTON,  Dace  propre  Salamancam,  Gallis, 

Sohit^ae  ezinde  GADIUM  obsidione,  banc,  quam,  aspictia, 

Bati  raperimpotttam  BOMBARDAM,  Vi  Pfteditam  adhoc  inanditA 

Ad  nrbcm  portnmqne  GADITANIUM  dettmendom,  confiatnm 

Et  a  oopiis  tnrbatis  relictam,  CORTES  HISPANICI  prittinoran 

baodquaqnam 

Benaficiomm  obliti,  somnue  Tenerationis  tctlaBionio  dooavenint 

GEOBGIO  :  ILLUS :  PRINC : 

Qai  io  pcrpetoam  rai  Memoriav,  boc  loco  ponendam,  ct  bit  onut- 

mentis  decorandam,  jnitit. 

IiriCBimON  ON  THX  NOBTB  aiOE,  NEXT  CABLTON  UOVB^  : 

To  coomemonte 

The  raiting  of  the  Siege  of  CADIZ,  in  oonteqoence  of  the  glorioot 

victoiy  gained  bf  the 

a 


926  WALKS   TUBOUGR   LONDON. 

DUKE  OF  WELUNGTON 
Om  the  Frtash,  near  SALAMANCA,  oo  the  XXU.  of  Joly, 

M.nccc 

TbU  MORTARy  citi  for  the  dettractioo  of  that  great  Ptort,  with 

powers  torpaMtng  all  others. 

And  abaodoocd  by  the  BESIEGERS  on  tbcir  RETREAT, 

Was  prctentad,  as  a  token  of  respect  and  gratitade,  by  tlie 

SPANISH  NATION 

TO  HIS  ROTAL  HIGHNESS  THE  PRINCE  REGENT. 

This  cliimera  of  its  kind*  has  been  by  some  penons^ 
compared  to  the  chimerical  imagination  of  its  former 
master^  Buonaparte.  Those  who  notice  curious  coin* 
cidences  will  observe*  that  as  Homer's  chimera  was 
overcome  by  Bellerophon,  so  Buonaparte's  surrendered 
to  the  British  ship  of  war  of  the  same  name.  Nor  can 
any  one  deny  that  a  strong  similarity  exists  between 
Homer's  chimera,  as  translated  by  Pope,  and  this  ex- 
traordinary piece  of  ordnance : 

First  dire  chimera's  oonqnett  was  enjoin'd, 
A  mingled  monster  of  no  mortal  kind  ; 
Behind  a  dragon's  fiery  tail  was  spread, 
A  goat's  roagb  bodj  bore  a  lion's  bead  { 
Her  pitchy  nostrils  flaky  flames  expire. 
Her  gaping  throat  emits  tnfental  te. 
This  pest  he*  slew. 

But,  added  to  its  natural  beauties,  this  park  perhaps 
never  appeared  in  greater  splendour  than  in  the  summer 
of  1814,  when,  in  honor  of  the  allied  sovereigns  whf 
visited  England,  the  beautiful  Qiinese  Bridge  was  first 
erected  over  the  canal. 

Upon  the  centre  of  this  bridge  an  elegant  and-  lofty 
pagoda  was  then  constructed,  consisting  of  seven  pyra- 
midal stories.  The  pagoda  was  illuminated  with  gas 
lights ;  and  brilliant  fireworks,  both  fixed  and  missile, 
were  displayed  from  every  division  of  this  structure; 

•  BatteraphM. 


^ 


VALKg  THROUGH  LONDOK.  397 

Ibe  pagoda  was  consumed  by  accident.  Variou«  smaller 
tempies^  and  other  columns  on  the  bridge,  were  also 
vividly  illuminated.  The  canal  was  at  the  same  time 
provided  with  handsomely  decorated  boats,  and  the 
whole  margin  of  the  lawn  surrounded  with  booths  for 
refreshment,  open  marquees  with  seats,  &c.  The  MaH 
was  illuminated  all  the  way  along  with  Chinese  lan- 
thoms,  the  whole  forming  a  kind  of  Vauihail  upon  an 
enlarged  scale.  In  the  Green  Park,  the  grand  fire* 
works  were  displayed  from  a  fortress  or  castle,  the 
ramparts  being  an  hundred  feet  square,  surmounted  by 
a  round  tower  in  the  centre,  about  sixty  feet  in  diameter, 
and  rising  about  fifty  feet  above  the  ramparts ;  whilst 
Hyde  Park  had  been  occupied  by  shews,  drinking- 
booths,  &c.  like  a  fair,  daring  the  Naumachia,  or  sham 
fight  between  a  number  of  vessels  on  the  Serpentine 
river;  among  others  were  exhibited,  the  celebrated 
mancravre  of  Admiral  Nelson  in  breaking  the  enemy's 
Kne  at  Trafalgar.  In  the  aAemoon,  the  lawn  in  the 
front  of  Buckingham-House,  was  enclosed  for  the  pur- 
pose of  filling  and  sending  up  a  balloon,  which  ascended 
about  five  o'clock,  with  Mr.  Sadler,  junior,  in  a  fine 
style.  This,  and  the  eflects  of  the  various  fire-works 
exhibited  till  a  very  late  hour  at  night,  may  be  more 
easily  conceived  than  described. 

Nearly  opposite  to  Henry  the  Seventh's  Chapel,  viz. 
at  the  distance  of  about  thirty  feet,  is  the  parish  church 
9(  Si*  Margaret,  Wetttninster.  This  structure,  ascribed 
to  Edward  the  Confessor,  was  rebuilt  in  the  reign  of 
Edward  the  First,  by  the  parishioners  and  the  mer- 
chants of  the  Wool  Staple,  its  chancel  excepted,  whicll 
was  added  by  the  Abbot  of  Westminster.  It  has  been 
several  times  repaired ;  but,  last  of  all,  completely  in 
1803.  It  was  then  decorated  with  a  richly-ornamented 
pulpit  and  desk,  and  a  new  organ,  and  the  Speaker's 
Chair,  placed  in  the  front  of  the  west  gallery.  Among 
the  Domeffots  moi^meiito  here,  that  of  Sir  WaUetr 


.988  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

Raleigh  merits  particular  attention;  howe?er,  the 
greatest  ornament  of  this  fabric  is  its  fine  painted 
•window,  representing  the  whole  history  of  the  Cruci- 
fixion of  Christ,  in  a  most  masterly  style,  originally 
intended  for  Henry  the  Seventh's  Chapel.  Round  the 
cross  are  the  Roman  officers,  and  some  of  the  Jewish 
rulers:  at  the  foot  are  Mary  Magdalen,  and  Mary, 
the  wife  of  Cleophas;  the  latter  stands  in  the  fronU 
And  is  represented  as  fainting.  On  the  right  of  the 
cross  is  the  Roman  Centurion  on  horseback,  who,  with 
a  lance,  pierces  the  Saviour's  side.  Behind  the  cross, 
a  little  to  the  lefl,  Jerusalem  appears  in  perspective : 
on  the  right  is  the  penitent,  and  on  the  lefl  the  impe- 
nitent thief.  On  the  left,  in  a  niche,  is  St.  George  of 
(Cappadocia,  completely  armed^  and  holding  in  his 
hands,  partly  unfurled,  a  white  banner,  charged  with 
a  red  cross ;  behind  him  a  red  dragon  lies  at  his  feet. 
The  second  figure,  on  the  right  hand,  is  St.  Catharine, 
the  virgin,  a  martyr  of  Alexandria,  resting  her  left 
hand  on  a  sword  :  at  the  bottom,  towards  the  lefl,  is  a 
hermit  holding  something  like  a  root :  on  the  right, 
towards  the  bottom,  is  a  whed,  the  emblem  of  her 
torture.  The  third  figure,  on  the  left  hand,  under  St 
George,  is  Henry  the  Seventh  at  his  devotions,  in  his 
royal  robes,  crowned  with  a  diadem,  and  kneeling 
under  a  canopy  of  state,  with  a  book  before  him.  The 
fourth  figure,  on  the  right  hand,  under  St.  Catharine, 
is  that  of  Elizabeth,  Henry's  consort,  kneeling  under  a 
state-canopy,  with  a  book  before  her«  Above  the 
.whole  is  a  row  of  six  small  panes,  containing  repre- 
sentations of  angels  attendant  on  the  Crucifixion.  On 
the  lefl,  in  a  amall  pane,  is  the  moon,  and  on  the  op- 
posite side  the  sun,  alluding  to  the  preternatural  dark-> 
ness  at  the  time  of  the  Crucifixion.  On  the  left  of 
these  figures,  over  the  moon,  is  a  white  rose  within  a 
red  one.  alluding  to  the  union  of  the  houses  of  Yoik  an4 
Lancaster.    On  the  opposite  sid^  over  the  sun^  is  a 


WALKS  THBOUGH  LONDON.  239 

pomegranate,  another  aUasion  to  the  descent  of  these 
houses  from  the  royal  line  of  Spain.    This  beautifal 
window  was  originally  intended  as  a  present  from  the 
magistrates  of  Dort,  in  Holland,  to  Henry  the  Seventh; 
but  the  king  dying  before  it  was  completed,  it  fell  ^nto 
the  hands  of  the  Abbot  of  Waltham,  who  kept  it  in 
his  church  till  the  Dissolution.     To  preserve  it,  Robert- 
Fuller,  the  last  abbot,  sent  it  to  New  Hall,  a  seat  of  the 
Butlers,  in  Wiltshire.     From  this  family  it  was  pur- 
chased  by  Thomas  Villars,    Duke  of  Buckingham:' 
bis  son  sold  it  to  General  Monk,  who  caused  this 
window  to  be  buried  under  ground.     Monk  well  knew 
that  if  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Puritans,  they  would 
not  fail  to  demolish  so  fine  an  e£R)rt  of  genius  and 
talent;   as  it  is  said,    that  during  these  disgraceful 
times,  they  destroyed  no  less  than  eight  hundred  of 
these  productions  of  art.    After  the  Restoration,  Monk 
replaced  it  in  his  chapel  at  New  Hall.    Subsequent  to 
General  Monk's  death,  John  Olmius,  Esq.  demolished 
this  chapel,  but  preserved  the  window,  in  hopes  of 
selling  it  for  some  church.    After  laying  a  long  time 
cased  up,  Mr.  Conyers  bought  it  for  his  chapel  near 
Epping:    here  it  remained  till  his  son  built  a  new 
house;   and  this  gentleman  finally  selling  it  to  the 
Committee  appointed  for  repairing  and  beautifying 
SL  Margaret's,  Westminster,  after  a  lapse  of  nearly 
three  hundred  years,  it  occupies  a  place  immediately 
contiguous  to  that  for  which  it  was  originally  de-^ 
signed. 

Great  George-Street  forms  a  very  handsome  avenue 
from  Westminster  Bridge  to  St.  James's  Park.  Duke* 
Street  also,  which  faces  the  Park,  with  other  good 
houses,  contained  one  built  by  Judge  Je£feries;  whicb> 
after  being  a  short  time  in  the  possession  of  his  son» 
was  purchased  by  Government  for  the  use  of  the 
CommisMoners  of  the  Admiralty,  and  one  of  the  wings 


990  WALKS  THROUGH   tONOOSi* 

was  converted  into  a  Chapel  of  Ease  to  St.  Margaiei's 
parish. 

Long  Ditch,  over  which  Maud,  Queen  to  Henry 
the  First,  erected  a  bridge,  leads  to  Tothill-Street  and 
Broad  Way,  in  which  is  another  Chapel  of  Ease, 
called  New  Chapel,  completed  in  1630,  by  the  bounty 
of  Archbishop  Laud. 

Nearly  opposite  Broad  Way  is  an  avenue  to  Sikoi- 
Square. — This  contains  a  chapel  and  one  of  the  Pohce 
offices. 

At  the  south  end  of  James -Street,  which  contains  a 
pleasant  row  of  good  houses  opposite  the  Park,  is 
The  Westminster  Infirmary. — This  noble  foundation 
commenced  in  the  year  1719. 

ToiLill  Fields,  during  the  great  plague,  had  some 
bouses  appointed  as  Pest  Houses,  which,  standing  quite 
detached,  are  still  known  by  the  appellation  of  the 
Five  Chimnics,    This  spot  is  further  remarkable  for  a 
ttumber  of  charities,   viz.  The  Grey  Coat  Hospital; 
the  Green  Coat  Hospital ;  Emanuel  Hospital,  or  Lady 
Ann  Dacre's  Alms-houses ;  twelve  alms-houses,  founded 
by  John  Palmer,  B.  D.  in  1654;  besides  Mrs.  KifFord's, 
Mr.  HilPs,  Mr.  Cornelius  Vanden's,  a  charity  school 
in  Duck-Lane,  &c.  &c.     The  prison  called  Tothili 
Fields  Bridewell,  in  this  vicinity,  merited  the  unqua* 
lified  commendations  of  the  philanthropic  Mr.  Howard. 
We  may  add,  that  a  part  of  this  district,  nearly  as  bad 
as  the  worst  part  of  St.  Giles's,  is  now  formed  into  a 
neat  square,  and  one  of  the  most  spacious  in  London : 
each  side  consists   of    elegantly-constructed   houses, 
somewhat  in  the  cottage  style.    The  area  still  serves 
as  a  play*ground  to  the  Westminster  scholars,  and  the 
square  itself  derives  its  name  from  their  late  venerable 
preceptor.  Dr.  Vincent.    The  new  road  to  Vauxhall 
Bridge  mnB  immediately  to  the  rear  of  the  west  side 
of  tfaia  square ;  and  since  the  road  was  constructed) 
a  number  of  new  houses,  and  even  new  streets,  are 


WALKS  THROVCH   LONDON.  3S1 

bttUding  on  each  side,  especiall  j  since  the  bridge  was 
thrown  open. 

Returning  through  James-Street,  we  arrire  at  Buck- 
ingham Gate,  near  which  stood  Tart  Hall,  built  for 
the  wife  of  Thomas,  Earl  of  Arundel,  in  1638.  This 
house,  in  which  was  preserved  the  last  remains  of  the 
Arundehan  marbles,  was  pulled  down  about  the  year 
1720. 

Pindico  has  increased  from  a  few  houses  to  a  con- 
siderable town,  having  a  number  of  handsome  houses, 
and  a  chapel. 

At  the  west  end  of  St.  James's  Park,  fronting  the  Mall, 
stands  the  Queen's  Palace,  which,  till  1763,  when  his 
present  majesty  bought  it,  was  called  Buckingkaim* 
Haute. — This  edifice,  a  mixture  of  brick  and  stone, 
has  a  park  and  a  canal  behind,  with  a  good  garden. 
The  spacious  court  fronting  St.  James's  Park  is  en- 
closed with  iron  rails,  and  has  offices  on  each  side  sepa- 
rated from  the  house  by  two  wings  of  bending  piazzas 
and  arched  galleries,  supported  by  pillars  of  the  Tus- 
can, Doric,  and  Ionic  orders.  Each  front  of  the  house 
has  Corinthian  and  Tuscan  pilasters. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  Park  is  Carldon  House,  built 
by  the  late  Mr.  Holland,  as  the  residence  of  His  Boyal 
Highness  the  Prince  of  Wales.  It  contains  several 
magnificent  apartments,  and  one  of  the  most  complete 
armouries  in  the  world.  The  colonade  fronting  Pall 
Mall  does  not  partake  of  that  grandeur  of  style  exhibited 
by  the  Adams  in  the  colonade  at  Sion  House,  near 
Brentford.  The  front  of  Carleton  House  is  evidently 
too  low,  and  consequently  a£R>rds  but  one  range  of 
spacious  apartments,  recently  connected  by  large  fold* 
ing  doors,  and  thus  opening  to  an  enriched  Gothic 
conservatory;  but  it  allows  of  nothing  mojre  than  a 
diminutive  attic,  with  very  small  windows.  The  facade 
has  a  centre  and  two  wings  rusticated,  without  pilasters^ 
an  eDtabkture  and  balustrade,  which  conceal  the  root 


933  WALKS  THROUGH    LONI>OI(. 

The  portico  oonsiste  of  six  composite  colamns,  with  a 
pediment, an  enriched  frieze>aud  a  tympanum,  crowned 
with  the  Prince's  arms;  but  all  the  windows  are  without 
pediments,  except  two  in  the  wings.  The  gardens  be* 
hind  Carlton  House  are  very  beautiful,  and  seem  as 
retired  as  if  they  were  in  the  country.  The  subles  at 
the  east  end  are  of  brick,  and  in  form  iyemicircular. 
The  new  conservatory  is  a  rich  display  of  what  is  called 
the  florid  Gothic  style,  seventy-two  feet  in  length, 
twenty-three  in  breadth,  and  twenty  feet  high. 

Adjoining  to  Carlton  House  Gardens  are  tho^  be- 
longing to  the  residence  of  Henry  Frederick,  late  Duke 
of  Cumberland,  brother  to  His  present  Majesty.  It  was 
originally  built  for  Prince  Edward,  Duke  of  York,  an* 
other  brother,  but  was  subsequently  occupied  by  a  sub- 
scription club,  and  called  The  Albion  Hotei 

Marlborough'House  was  built  in  the  reign  of  Queen 
Anne,  at  the  expense  of  40,000/.  It  is  a  large  brick 
edifice, ornamented  with  stone;  the  first  story  is  crowned 
with  an  attic  above  the  cornice.  A  small  colonade  ex- 
tends on  the  side  of  the  area  next  the  wings,  and  the  op- 
posite side  is  occupied  by  offices.  The  apartments  within 
are  noble  and  well-disposed.  In  the  vestibule,  at  the 
entrance,  is  painted  the  Battle  of  Blenheim  or  Hochstet, 
in  which  the  most  remarkable  scene  is  the  taking  of 
Marshal  Tallard.  The  figures  of  the  great  Duke  of 
Marlborough,  Prince  Eugene  of  Savoy,  and  General 
Cadogan,  are  finely  executed. 

Si,  James* s  Palace  was  originally  an  hospital  founded 
by  some  devout  citizens  of  London,  before  the  Con- 
quest, for  fourteen  leprous  females;  this  foundation 
being  aderwards  augmented  by  the  addition  of  eight 
brethren,  the  hospital  was  rebuilt  in  the  reign  of  Henry 
the  Third.  When  this  hospital  was  surrendered,  with 
many  others,  during  the  rapacious  reign  of  Henry  the 
Eighth,  its  revenues  amounted  to  100/.  per  annum. 
Henry  demolished  most  of  the  old  fabric,  and  on  its 


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Henry  demolished  most  of  the  old  fabric,  and  on  its 


tTALRB  THROUGH   LONDON.  338 

site  founded  the  present  palace^  called  by  Stow  ^  a 
goodly  manor/'  Though  the  exterior  of  St.  James's 
is  inconsiderable,  it  certainly  is  not  mean.  It  is  a  brick 
building,  and  the  entrance  to  the  rooms  of  state  is  by  a 
staircase  that  opens  into  the  principal  court  next  to 
Pdl  Mall ;  at  the  top  of  this  are  two  guard  rooms,  one 
on  the  left  called  the  Queen's,  and  the  other  the  King's 
guard-room.  Immediately  beyond  the  latter  is  the 
Presence  Chamber,  now  used  only  as  a  passage  to  the 
principal  rooms.  The  Presence  Chamber  opens  into 
the  centre  room,  called  the  Privy  Chamber,  where  there 
is  a  canopy,  under  which  His  Majesty  used  to  receive 
private  addresses.  On  the  right  are  two  drawing-rooms, 
one  within  the  other,  and  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
further  one,  a  throne  with  its  canopy ;  here  the  King 
receives  corporation  addresses :  the  nearer  room  is  a 
kind  of  anti-chamber,  where  the  nobility  are  permitted 
to  sit  down,  whilst  their  Majesties  are  present  in  the 
further  room,  there  being  stools  and  sofas  for  that  pur- 
pose. In  the  grand  drawing-room  is  a  large  magnificent 
chandelier  of  gilt  silver,  and  in  the  grand  levee-room, 
a  very  noble  bed,  with  furniture  of  crimson  velvety 
manufactured  in  Spitalfields. 

Among  the  pictures  in  this  palace  are  those  of  Jeflery 
Hudson,  the  dwarf  of  Henry  Lord  Darnley,  consort  of 
Mary  Queen  of  Scots,  and  father  of  James  the  First, 
his  hand  resting  on  his  brother  Charles  Stuart,  £arl  of 
Lenox,  in  a  black  gown ;  the  famous  picture  df  Ma* 
buse  of  Adam  and  Eve,  with  the  curious  anachronisms 
of  navels,  a  fountain  richly  carved,  &c.  &c. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  court-yard  is  the  Chapel 
Hoyal,  a  plain  contracted  room,  supposed  to  have  been 
the  same  used  as  when  belonging  to  the  hospital ;  the 
ceiling  is  divided  into  small  painted  squares.  The  ser« 
vice  here  is  performed  in  the  same  manner  as  at  ca- 
thedrals; its  establishment  is  a  dean,  usually  the  Bishop 
of  London^  a  lord-almoner,  a  sub-dean,  and  forty-eight 


334  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON*  / 

chaplains^  who  preach  in  their  turns  before  the  Royal 
family.  There  are  also  twelve  gentlemen  of  the  chapel, 
two  organists,  ten  choristers,  a  seijeant,  a  yeoman,  a 
groom  of  the  vestry,  &c. 

The  other  parts  of  this  palace  are  very  irregular  in 
their  form,  consisting  of  several  courts*  Some  of  these 
have  been  appropriated  to  the  use  of  the  branches  of 
the  Royal  family  :  others  are  occupied  by  the  King's 
servants,  or  granted  as  a  benefit  to  their  occupiers. 

Cleoeland  Raio. — Berkshire-House,  which  formerly 
stood  here,  v^as  ]>urchased  by  Charles  the  Second,  of 
one  of  the  Earls  of  Berkshire,  and  presented  by  him 
to  that  ''  beautiful  fury,''  Barbara,  Duchess  of  Cleve- 
land. 

A  passage  leads  from  hence  to  the  Green  Park.  The 
Wilderness,  with  the  Ranger's  Lodge,  the  Lawn,  the 
Waier,  the  Walks,  and  the  extensive  prospects,  render 
it  extremely  beautiful.  The  east  side  is  ornamented 
with  the  houses  of  many  of  the  nobility,  with  gardens 
before  them.  Spencer  House  is  one  of  the  most  worthy 
of  notice ;  the  Park  front  of  this  mansion  is  ornamented 
to  a  high  degree,  though  the  pediment  in  it  is  too 
lofty,  and  has  not  the  grace  and  msgesty  of  the  low 
Grecian  pediment.  The  statues  on  the  pediment,  and 
the  vases  at  each  extremity,  must  be  mentioned  with 
approbation,  as  they  are  in  a  good  style,  and  judicioudy 
disposed.  The  interior  of  Spencer  House  is  not  inferior 
to  the  outside ;  but  its  chief  ornament  is  The  LisiAar. 


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WALKS  TBaOUOH  LONDON.  935 


WALK  XL 

Commencing  at  Charing- Cross  by  the  Haymarket  through 
Pall  Mall,  part  qf  Piccadilly,  and  Hyde  Park  Comer; 
return  through  Oxford- Street,  taking  in  the  North 
Side  of  the  Metropolis  undescribed. 

In  the  days  of  Charles  the  Second,  the  Haymarket 
and  Hedge-Lane,  had  names,  but  they  were  literally 
lanes,  bounded  by  hedges,  and  all  beyond  to  the  north- 
east and  west,  was  entirely  country.  In  the  fine  plan 
of  London,  published  by  Faithoriv  in  1658|  the  only 
house  that  appears  at  the  end  next  to  Piccadilly  is  the 
Gaming  House. 

Windmill-Street  consisted  of  disjointed  houses,  and  a 
windmill,  standing  in  a  field  on  the  west  side ;  all  the 
space  occupied  by  the  streets  radiating  from  the  Seven 
Diab  was,  at  that  period,  open  ground. 

Leicester-Fields  was  not  then  built  upon,  but  Leices^ 
ter-House  was  then  standing.  The  first  house  waa 
founded  by  one  of  the  Sydneys,  Earls  of  Leicester.  It 
was  for  a  short  time  the  residence  of  Elizabeth,  daughter 
of  James  the  First,  the  titular  Queen  of  Bohemia*  who 
died  here  in  February  1661.  This  house,  it  has  been  ob« 
served,  "  was  successively  ihe pouting  place  of  princes;" 
the  late  king,  when  Prince  of  Wales,  after  he  had  quar- 
relled with  his  father,  Uved  here  several  years.  His  son 
Frederick  followed  his  example,  and  died  here.  lo 
1658,  The  Military  Yard  stood  behind  Leicester- House; 
and  in  the  reign  of  Charles  the  Second,  Msyor  Foubert 
kept  bis  academy  here  for  riding,  and  other  exercises, 
till  he  moved  to  Swallow-Street,  opposite  to  Conduit* 
Street,  in  the  avenue  that  still  retains  the  same  of 
Major  Fonbert'e  Passage. 

Gerard-Street  derived  its  name  fron  Gerar^.Mousc, 


296  WALKS  THBOUGH  LONDON. 

which  belonged  to  the  brave  Charles  Gerard,  Earl  of 
Macclesfield,  one  of  the  lords  who  presented  James, 
Duke  of  York,  at  the  King's  Bench  bar,  as  a  Popish 
recusant. 

Coventry-House  stood  on  the  site  of  Coventry-Street, 
and  was  the  residence  of  Henry  Coventry,  Secretary 
of  State,  who  died  here  in  1686,  and  this  is  supposed 
to  have  stood  on  the  site  of  the  old  gaming-house  before 
mentioned. 

Jermyn  and  St.  Alban's-Streets  took  their  names  from 
the  gallant  Henry  Jermyn,  Earl  of  St.  Albans,  sup- 
posed to  have  married  the  Queen  Dowager,  Henrietta 
Maria,  afler  the  death  of  Charles  the  First,  whose 
spirit  was  observed  to  have  been  awed  by  her  $uhject 
spouse. 

The  Pest'House  Fields,  about  the  site  of  Camaby- 
Market,  took  their  name  from  a  lazaretto,  built  there 
in  the  time  of  the  dreadful  plague,  by  Lord  Craven,  who 
remained  in  London  the  whole  time. 

In  1700,  Old  Bond-Street  was  built  no  farther  than 
the  west  end  of  CliflbrJ' -Street.  New  Bond-Street  was 
at  that  time  an  open  field,  called  Conduit-Mead, 

George-Street,  Hanover- Square,  with  its  church,  rose 
about  the  same  time :  the  church  was  fi.ushed  in  1724. 
In  1716  Hanover-Square  and  Cavendish-Square  were 
unbuilt;  but  their  names  appear  in  the  plans  of  London 
in  1720. 

Soho-Square  was  built  in  the  time  of  Charles  the 
Second ;  and  as  the  Duke  of  Monmouth  lived  in  the 
centre  house  on  the  south  side,  on  the  site  of  which 
Bateman's  Buildings  now  stand,  it  was  called  Mon- 
month-Square,  then  King's-Square.  On  his  death,  it 
is  said,  the  admirers  of  this  unfortunate  prince  changed 
it  to  Soho,  that  being  the  watchword  at  the  battle  of 
Sedgemoor. 

Having  concluded  the  retrospect,  we  proceed  from 
Charing-Crosa  by  Spring-Gardens,  where  there  is  a 


WALKS  THROUGH   LONDON.  337 

diapel  of  Ease  to  St.  Martins ;  thence  by  Hedge-Lme, 
or  Wkiicomb-Sireei,  and  Suffolk-Streei,  to  the  Ht^ 
market. 

In  Oxendon^Sireet  there  is  a  ChapeU  first  bailt  as  a 
meeting  bouse  by  the  famous  Richard  Baxter. 

Leicester  House,  in  Leicester  Fields,  when  totally  de- 
serted by  its  royal  possessors,  became  the*  Museum  of 
Natural  History,  belonging  to  Sir  Ashton  Lever,  who 
died  in  1788.  This  being  won  by  way  of  Lottery,  by 
Mr.  James  Parkinson,  and  transferred  by  him  to  the 
Surrey  side  of  Blackfriars-Bridge,  it  again  experienced 
the  most  mortifying  neglect,  and  was  disposed  of  by 
public  auction,  in  separate  lots,  in  a  sale  which  lasted 
upwards  of  forty  days.  During  the  year  1806,  Leices' 
ter  House  was  pulled  down,  and  Leicester  Place  erected. 
on  its  ruins ;  this  now  forms  an  avenue  from  the  Square 
to  New  Lisle-Street. 

At  the  end  of  Cranboume^Street,  acyoining  to  Leices- 
ter Square,  Barker's  Panorama  has  been  exhibited 
several  years  in  such  perfection,  that  to  many  of  the 
beholders  the  scenes  appeared  to  be  realized.  Mr. 
Barker's  species  of  painting  has  not  unaptly  been 
called,  "  The  Perfection  of  Perspective."  Some  of 
the  latest  views  exhibited  here  were,  the  Battle  of  Paris 
in  1814,  and  another  of  the  still  more  celebrated  and 
decisive  Battle  of  Waterloo. 

The  large  house  on  the  west  side  of  Leicester  Square 
was  called  SaviUe  House,  being  the  residence  of  that 
independent  patriot  Sir  George  Saville,  who  was  many 
years  Knight  of  the  Shire  for  York.  The  inside  of 
this  house  was  destroyed  by  the  infuriated  bigots  col- 
lected by  Lord  George  Gordon,  in  1780.  Sir  Joshua 
Reynolds  also  lived  on  the  west  side  of  this  square.  The 
celebrated  Hogarth  resided  in  the  house  on  the  east 
side  of  the  square,  now  the  Sablonier  Hotel;  acyoining 
to  which  lived  that  eminent  Surgeon,  Mr.  John  Hunter. 
A  part  of  Sir  George  Savil|e's  house,  at  present  coii« 


838  WALKS  TRmOUGH   LONDON. 

Um  Miss  Unwood's  exhihitiom  cf  Needle  Work  :  thit 
novel  style  of  picturesque  needle  woHc  consitU  of  a 
number  of  copies  of  tlie  finest  pictures  of  the  English 
and  Foreign  Schools  of  art,  possessing  all  the  correct 
drawing,  just  colouring,  and  light  and  shade  of  the 
original  pictures  from  whence  they  are  taken. 

The  fine  equestrian  statue  of  George  the  First* 
which  stands  in  the  centre  of  this  square,  originally 
stood  in  the  Park  at  Camums,  in  Herts. 

Facing  the  top  of  the  Haymarket,  in  Great  Wind- 
mill-Street, is  the  large  house  formerly  the  residence  of 
Dr.  William  Hunter. 

Norris-Sireei,  in  the  Haymarket,  leads  to  St.  James's 
Market  for  batchers'  meat,  poultry,  &c. 

Lower  down  the  Haymarket  are  two  structures  for 
public  entertainment — T%e  King*s  Theatre  or  Opera 
House ;  and  the  Little  Theatre, 

This  Theatre  is  opened  during  the  summer  months. 
The  patent  by  which  it  is  held  was  formerly  granted  to 
Samuel  Foote,  Esq.  denominated  the  Aristophanes  of 
bis  day ;  of  whom  it  was  purchased  by  George  Colman^ 
Esq.  and  held  by  his  son,  both  dramatic  writers,  joints 
ly,  with  other  proprietors.  This  Theatre  contains  three 
tiers  of  boxes,  a  pit,  and  two  galleries. 

The  Opera  House, — As  this  massy  pile  has  nerer  been 
finished  according  to  the  designs  of  the  architect,  it  can 
only  be  said,  that  with  respect  to  its  interior,  it  is  one 
of  the  finest  buildings  in  the  metropolis.  The  present 
form  of  the  boxes,  and  their  ornamental  beauties, 
create  the  most  lively  images  of  gnndeur ;  their  fironts 
are  painted  in  compartments,  a  blue  ground,  with  broad 
gold  frames.  In  the  second  tier  are  Neptunes,  Nereid^ 
Tritons,  Mermaids,  Dolphins,  Sea  Horses,  &c.  On 
the  third  tier  the  ornaments  exhibit  festoons  and 
wreaths  of  flowers,  sustained  by  cupids.  Leopards, 
Lions,  GriflSns,  &c.  are  the  supporters  of  the  fourth.  The 
dome  presents  a  sky,  in  which  a  Aame^olour  prevails* 


WALKS  THIOIHSa   LONDON.  399 

The  Cot^  d^mtl  of  the  whole  is  rich  and  magnificent, 
and  the  measurements  of  the  interior  of  the  house  Is 
within  two  feet  of  the  dimensions  of  the  great  theatre  at 
Milan.  The  stage  is  sixty  feet  in  length  from  the  wall 
to  the  orchestra,  eighty  in  breadth  from  wall  to  wall, 
and  forty-six  feet  across  from  box  to  box :  the  pit  will 
hM.  eight  hundred  persons,  and  each  box  in  the  five 
tiers  is  so  constructed  as  to  hold  six  persons  with  ease;, 
aff  of  whom  command  a  full  view  of  the  stage.  The 
gallery,  containing  seventeen  benches,  holds  eight  hon* 
dred  persons.  The  Opera  usually  opens  for  the  season 
in  January,  and  continues  its  representations  on  the 
Tuesday  and  Saturday  of  every  week  till  June  or  July* 

In  Pail-Mall,  on  the  left  side  from  the  Opera  House, 
is  the  exhibitioa  of  the  Pictures  painted  by  Mr.  West 
Here  is  the  celebrated  piece,  Christ  Rejected;  or,  as  it 
is  sometimes  called.  The  Judgment  of  Christ;  the  new 
Picture  of  Ckritt  Healing  in  the  Temple;  a  Design  qf 
tie  Crueijlxion,  bfc. 

The  Waterloo  Museum  is  situated  in  Pall  Mall,  wesU 
ward  of  Carlton  House,  and  occupies  the  spacious 
premises  in  which  Mr.  Winsor,  a  few  years  since,  ex« 
hibited  his  gas  lights.  This  house  was  formerly  a 
tavern  of  considerable  note,  called  the  Star  and  Garter. 
This  Mnseum  contains  an  elegant  painting  of  Napt^ean 
Buonaparte  in  hb  coronation  robes,  by  Robert  Lefevre, 
fifteen  feet  by  six :  the  likeness  is  accurate,  fully  de- 
picting the  mind  of  that  extraordinary  character,  and 
the  drapery  is  surprisingly  beautiful.  There  is  also  a 
fine  painting  of  Joachim  Murat,  in  the  costume  of 
CoBimander-in-Chief  of  the  Cavalry,  represented  as 
receiving  his  military  cap  from  a  page.  Another 
painting  represents  the  Allies  entering  Paris,  in  1814^ 
tfamagfa  the  gate  of  St.  Denis.  Tlie  £mperor  Alex- 
ander, the  King  of  Prussia,  and  Prince  Schwartzen* 
huqr,  the  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Austrian  army, 
are  Kcgrusuted  on  horacbadL  beneath  the  arch,  while 


940         WALKS  THBOUGB  LONDOK. 

the  populace  receive  tbem  with  acclamations,  A  ckHid 
of  Cofisacks  appear  advancing  in  various  directioiis«-« 
The  same  room  contains  a  painting  of  the  Battle  of 
Waterloo,  by  a  Flemish  artist.  The  Duke  of  WeUing- 
ton  is  represented  in  the  foreground,  with  Major 
Freemantle  on  his  right.  The  flight  and  destructioa 
of  the  enemy  is  pourtrayed  in  a  masterly  manner. 
The  Scots  Greys  attacking  the  French  Cuirassienis 
beyond  description.  The  Cuirassiers'  Hall,  as  it  is 
eailed«  and  the  grand  staircase,  contain  a  vast  number 
of  cuirasses,  helmets,  sabres,  muskets,  and  bayonets. 
The  rest  of  the  exhibition  consists  of  state  swords,  bdti^ 
truncheons,  rich  dresses,  and  other  trophies :  the  whole 
being  laid  out  with  extraordinary  skill  and  taste,  is  an 
ornament  to  the  metropolis,  and  a  lasting  monument 
of  the  triumph  of  our  arms. 

The  new  pictures  added  here  are,  ne  Battle  qf 
Waicrloo,  by  Coene ;  TheMedifig  between  the  Duke  iff 
Wellington  and  the  Marquit  qf  Anglesea  after  the  batde; 
The  Entrance  of  the  Allies  into  Paris  ;  Lrfevre^s  NapO' 
kon,  from  the  Military  School;  Girodet's  Mwrat, 
from  the  Hall  of  the  Marshals;  Buonaparte  at  St. 
Helena  ;  his  Miniature,  by  Isabey ;  Marshal  Ney,  by 
the  same  artist;  and  the  Magic  Table  at  St.  Cloud. 
The  collection  of  trophies  from  the  field  of  Waterloo 
has  also  received  a  considerable  addition. 

Schomberg  House,  in  Pail-Mall,  was  built  by  the 
Duke  of  Schomberg,  during  the  reign  of  William  the 
Third,  for  his  town  residence;  after  his  death  it  feD 
into  private  hands,  and  was  inhabited  by  AsUey,  the 
painter,  who,  dividing  il  into  three  habitati<His,  reser- 
ved the  centre  for  hioEiself.  It  was  then  occupied  by 
Richard  Cosway,  Esq.  R.  A.,  after  him  by  the  eccen« 
trie  Dr.  Graham,  and  here  be  delivered  his  lectuces. 
Mr.  Robert  Bowyer,  another  occupant,  collected  a 
large  gallery  of  paintings  and  engravings,  by  the  first 
masters,  which  he  named,  the  Historic  Gaiksy;  but 


WALKS   THROUGH    LONDON.  9^1 

beitig  unfortonate,  the  whole  was  disposed  of  by  Lot* 
toy,  in  1807.  £quaUy  so  was  the  Shakespeare  Galleiy, 
m  the  other  side  of  the  street,  notwithstanding  all 
the  merits  and  exertions  of  the  late  Mr.  Alderman 
Boydell. 

Si.  Jameses  Square,  on  the  north  side  of  Pail-Mall,  is 
tery  large  and  beautiful;  the  area  forms  an  octagon,  en- 
dosing  a  6ne  bason  of  water  and  a  pedestal,  surmounted 
by  a  sUtue  of  William  the  Third.  On  the  east  side 
stands  Narfolk-Hotue,  in  which  his  present  Majesty, 
George  the  Third,  was  bom.  Acljoining  this  is  London 
House,  the  town -residence  of  the  Bishops  of  that  see. 
•  Yark'Sireet.'^The  house  now  Wedgewood's  Ware^ 
AoKjr,  was  formerly  the  residence  of  the  Spanish  Am- 
baaiador;  and  the  adjoining  Chapel  is  now  a  place  of 
wonhip  for  the  people  called  Swedenbourgians,  or  the 
New  Jerusalem  Church,  from  Emanuel  Swedenbourg, 
a  Swedish  nobleman,  the  founder  of  this  sect,  and  who 
died  in  London  in  1772. 

Facing  York-Sireet,  is  situated  the  parish  Church  of 
&  James,  Westminster. — ^This  structure,  originally  a 
Chapel  of  Ease,  was,  in  the  first  year  of  James  the 
Setond,  constituted  a  parochial  Church,  and  the  parish 
wholly  taken  out  of  that  of  St  Martin  in  the  Fields. 
The  walls  of  this  church  are  well  built  of  brick,  with 
rustic  quoins,  facios,  doors,  and  window-cases  of  stone. 
The  roof  is  arched,  supported  by  pillars  of  the  Corin- 
thian order,  and  the  door-cases  of  the  Ionic  order.  The' 
interior  of  the  roof  is  divided  into  pannels  of  crocket 
and  fret  work.  The  galleries  have  neat  fronts;  and 
the  door-oases,  especially  that  facing  Jermyn-Street, 
an  highly  enriched.  The  windows  at  the  east  end  are* 
adorned  with  two  columns  and  two  pilasters;  the 
loirer  of  the  Corinthian,  and  the  upper  of  the  Compo- 
site order.  The  pews  and  pulpit  are  neat,  and  on  the 
baptismal  font,  carved  by  Orinlin  Gibbons,  the  Fall  of 
Um,  the  Salvation  of  Noah,  &c.  are  represented.  The 

R 


949  W4LR8  TintOUGir  LO!l1>OHi 

altaNpiece  is  very  spacious^  consisting  of  finebolectiow 
panneb,  with  architrave,  friese,  and  cornice  of  cedar; 
with  a  large  compass  pediment,  undier  which  it  m 
carved  pelican,  feeding  its  youngs  between  two  doves; 
also  a  noble  festoon,  with  very  large  fruit  of  several 
kinds,  fine  leaves,  &c.  all  neatly  done  in  lime  w<A)d. 
The  organ  was  given  by  Queen  Mary  the  Second,  in 
the  year  1691.  The  tablet  in  the  porch  of  this  chardi, 
to  the  memory  of  the  facetious  To^  IVUrfey,  hat 
been  removed  several  years  past. 

Facing  St.  James's  Church,  in  Piccadilly,  is  Swaihia 
Street,  «  narrow  avenue  to  Oxford  Street,  wfth  a  meet<» 
ing-hbuse,  containing  one  of  the  oldest  Scots'  Presby* 
terian  congn^gatioift  inr  London.  "     '  .    .- .  ^ 

PiccadUfy  is  so  tailed,  fTomPeecadilla  Hall,  a  sort 
of  repository  for  ruifii,  when  there  were  no  other  honset 
where  Sackvilk-Street  now  stands.  Piccadilly  was 
coinpleted;  as  far  ns  Berkeley-Street,  in  1643.  Th« 
first  good  house  built  here,  was  Burlington  H&me,  the 
^  noble  founder  of  which  said,  he  placed  it  there  "  be- 
cause he  was  certain  no  one  would  build  beyond 
bim'l*'  .'.'./■■•.        .  ■  "> 

The  front  of  this'kioble  mansiDb  is  of  stone;  tM 
circular  colonade  is  ef  the  Doric  order,  and  by'tlrn  the 
wings  are  connected.  Tfaisbousrwiieldft  totfae'Drvufit 
shire  family^  on  the  express  codditibn,  that  it  shdaU 
not  be 'demolished.  Theiheary  sereto,  wiiich  cencsili 
this  beautiful  front  from  the  atrest}  his.iong  beeM 
i^egcetted  as  a  nttisf nce«  .• '^^  ;•.  •• 

''  A(]|joining  to  Burlington«*Hou9e'i!i'the  Alban^-Hoitii 
first  inhabited  l^y  Lord  Mdboiunie,  and  exchanged 
with  Um  by  the  Duke^  York.  *  When  His  HIghbcia 
qifitted  possession,  the  next  proprietors. built <m' the 
ganlentii  and  converted J!he  whole  into  charatieri  fdriM 
casual  toklence  elf  the  nobility  and  gentry  wher  had 
boV  aeCiled  residence  ia  iowti.  The  name  of  the  ilttonjf 
wu  giventot^  hause  in  compliment  te  the  l^rioci 


WALKS  THVOUGH  tOKDOlf.'  949 

Bake,  wbow  second  title  is  Duke  qf  Albany.    Here  alia 
stood  the  house  of  the  Earl  of  Sutherland,  whose  advice 
rained  his  soverei^  James  the  Second.    The  present 
stractore  is  the  work  of  the  late  Sir  William  Chambers.' 
The  most  prominent  and  interesting  object  in  Picxra- 
diHy  is  Mi^.  BuUoCk's  ^yptian  Mmeum,    This  hoase 
is  built  in  a  style  aippropriat^  to  the  name  it  bears,  the^ 
inelihal  pilaaters  and  sides  being  covered  with  hiero- 
glyphics.    The  model  is  said  to  have  been  taken  from 
the  Temple  of  Dendera,  in  Upper  Egypt.  This  museum 
coDtains  curiosities,  not  only  from  Afiic<^  but  from 
Narih  and  South A'mericu';  amphibious  animals  in  gresit 
vaoety,  with  fishes,  insets,  shells,  zoophytes^  minerals, 
&£•  ad  ikjmitum,  besides  the  PaMtrioiij  intended  to 
dispby  the  whole  of  the  known  quadrupeds,  in  a  state 
of  preservation  hitherto  unattempted.  Fop  this  purpose 
the  visitor  is  introduced  through  a  basaltic  cavern, 
aimilar  to  .the  Gianfs  Causeway,  or  Fingal's  Cave,  in 
tfie  I^  of  Staflfo,  to  an  Indian  hut.  This  hut  is  situated 
in  a  tropical  forest,  in  which  most  of  the  quadrupeds 
described  by  naturaUsts  are  to  be  seen,  with  models 
froqs  naluoi  i>f  (he  trees,  and  <>ther  vegetable  produc- 
tiim  of  the  t^rid  climes,  remarkable  for  the  beauty  of 
their  frutf .  or  foliage*     Thb  museum  also  contains 
marbles^  mosaic  floors,  pictiires,  &c.  aiid  the  military 
carriage  of  the  late  Ex-Empleror,' Napoleon  Bohaparte. 
.  At  theb^ck  of  Bkrimgton-Oirdaut  f&e  several  good 
sireeto;  viz..  Savilk-Ro*,  Cork-Street,  Old  and  New 
Bturlingcon-Streels.  At  the  end  of  the  latter  liBurUug* 
ton-Sciool,  fooihded  by  the  last  Lady  Burlington^  for 
the  maibtenaace,  clothing  and  education  of  eighty  fe- 
tuik$,  vtjpon  the  mostliberal  plan.    The  south  end  of 
this  street  ik  occupied  hy  the^stotdy  mansion  built  by 
l^oni,  for  Gay's  patroA,  the  Duke  of  Queensbury,  who 
itas  allowed  t6.b«ild  add  have  a  vievr  Into  Burlingtoii 
fiaMenai  !  Haiviog  hecn  in  a  slate  of  dihpidation,  it 
was.]>iiriDbased  by  tlieEart  of  Uxbridge,  who  nulking 


244  WALKS  THBOUCH    LONDOWi 

several  improvements,  gave  it  the  name  of  Uxhridge 
House, 

Hence  an  avenue  leads  to  Old  Bond -Street,  and  again 
to  Piccadilly,  in  wbich  is  AlbemarU-Sireet.  At  the  top 
of  this  is  Grqfion- Street,  on  the  site  of  which  stood 
Clarendon- Houie,  built  by  the  great  Lord  Clarendon. 
This  his  enemies  called  DuiMrk- House,  calumniating 
him  with  having  built  it  with  the  money  arising  from 
the  sale  of  that  town  to  the  French. 

Here  is  also  the  Society's  House  for  the  encourage- 
ment of  improvements  in  arts  and  manufactures,  or. 
The  Royal  Institution,  The  front  of  this  house  is  bar- 
ricadoed  by  double  windows,  to  prevent  the  entrance 
of  cold  in  winter,  and  heat  in  summer.  Here  is  a  room 
for  experimental  dinners,  and  a  kitchen  fitted  up  upon 
the  late  Count  Rumford's  plan.  Adjoining  this  ia  a' 
large  workshop,  in  which  a  number  of  copparsmitha, 
braziers,  &c.  are  employed,  and  over  this  a  large  room 
for  the  reception  of  such  models  of  machinery  aa  may 
be  presented  to  the  Institution.  They  have  alio  a 
printing-office,  &c. 

Opposite  Albemarle-Street  is  St.  James's^Street,  a 
broad  descending  avenue  to  the  Royal  Palace.  This 
street  contains  several  subscription-houses  for  the  re^ 
ception  of  noblemen,  members  of  parliament,  &c. 

The  front  of  St.  Jameses-Palace  next  to  this  street 
appears  little  better  than  an  antiquated  gate-house; 
and,  in  fact,  since  the  Prince  Regent  has  been  so  much 
in  the  habit  of  prolonging  his  excursions  to  Brighton, 
this  iMdace  seems  hastening  to  a  state  of  desertion. 

ArUngton-Street  forms  an  avenue  from  St  Jamea'a- 
Street  to  Piccadilly,  and  contains  several  noblemena' 
bouses.  Opposite  is  Dover-Sireet,  in  which  is  the  house 
appointed  for  the  residence  of  the  Bishops  of  Ely. 
Upon  Hay  Hill,  according  to  Strype^s  JmuUs,  Sir 
Thomas  Wyatt  and  his  insurgents  were  defeated  in 
i5&i^  by  the  Royalists,  in  fiavour  of  Queen  Mary. 


WALU  TRKOUGB  LONDON.  345 

At  the  foot  of  Hay  Hill  is  Berkeley-Square,  and  in 
the  centre,  a  fine  equestrian  statue  of  His  present  Ma- 
jesty, by  Wilton.  The  north  side  of  this  square  is 
occupied  by  tradesmens'  houses,  but  most  of  those  on 
the  west  side  are  inhabited  by  persons  of  quality.  At 
the  top  of  Charles-Street,  on  this  side,  is  John- Street 
ChapeL  The  south  aide  of  Berkeley-Square  is  occupied 
by  the  beautiful  and  stately  structure  and  gardens  of 
the  late  Marquis  of  Lansdowne;  the  house,  fronted 
with  stone,  was  built  by  the  Adams :  the  gardens  are 
well  laid  ouL  ■ 

Berkeley-Street  is  built  on  the  site  of  Berkeley- House, 
a  fine  ancient  mansion  which  belonged  to  the  family 
of  that  name  and  title.  At  the  corner  of  this  street,  in 
Piccadilly,  is  Devomhire  Houie.  This  part  of  Piccadilly, 
as  far  as  the  turnpike,  was  formerly  called  Ponugal* 
Street.  Devonshire  House  was  the  last  in  the  street 
long  after  1700.  The  present  buikling  was  constructed 
according  to  a  design  by  Kent,  and  cost  30,000/.  in« 
eluding  1000/.  presented  by  the  third  Duke  of  Devoiv- 
shire  to  the  architect.  The  old  house,  according  to 
Pennant,  was  frequented  by  Waller,  Denham,  and 
most  of  the  wits  in  the  days  of  Charles  the  Second. 

The  south  side  of  Piccadilly,  to  the  turnpike,  is 
bounded  by  the  iron  railing  of  the  Green  Park,  and  the 
Ranger's  house  and  garden.  The  north  side  is  com- 
posed of  an  assemblage  of  mansions  belonging  to  the 
nobility,  some  shops  of  tradesmen,  lirery  stables,  &c. 
On  this  side  are  also  several  good  streets ;  Stratton- 
Street,  Bolton- Street,  and  Clarges- Street,  built  on  the 
site  of  Clarges  Hauie,  leading  to  May  Fair.  This  spot 
was  originally  called  Brook  Field,  and  when  the  ancient 
fair,  granted  by  Edward  the  First  to  St.  James's  Hospital, 
on  that  saint's  eve,  ceased  with  the  dissolution  of  most 
of  the  religious  houses,  this  fair  was  removed  to  Brook 
Field,  and  here  assumed  the  nameof  ilfojr  Fatr,  from 
ita  beitig  held  on  the  fint  days  of  that  month*    la 


S46  WALKS  TBBOUGH  LOMDOV. 

process  of  time  the  resort  of  low  company  was  pro- 
ductive of  such  disorders,  that  it  was  presented  in  170B 
by  the  grand  jury  of  Westminster,  and  abolished  foir 
that  time;  however,  having  i*evived,  it  used  to  be 
covered  with  booths,  temporary  theatres,  and  in  fact 
every  enticement  to  low  pleasures,  particularly  duck- 
hunting  in  a  pond,  most  of  which  continued  till  the  ftir 
received  its  final  .dissolution  about  176^»  but  not  till 
after  a  peacei-officer  had  been  killed  in  endeavouring 
to  quell  a  disturbance.  The  principal  exhibitions  of  this 
once  famous  place  were  mostly  on  an  open  apace  upon 
.which  May  Fair  Chapel  and  Cur^son^JStreet^stood. 
^  Relatixe  to  this  once  famous  spot,  the  scene  of  mnch 
broad  English,  humour,  we  are  indebted,  to  Mn  J.  Cte- 
ter,  an  eminent  antiquary,  who,  Jbut  a.  few  iponths  ago, 
through  the  medium  of  the  (Gentleman's  Magazine, 
communicated  the  following  information  : —  ... 
.  .".  Fifty  years ..haVe  passed  away  fince  this  pla^e  of 
4imilBement  was  at  its,  height -of  attnaction :  the  ^pot 
where  the  fair  was.  held. still  retains  the  name  of  May- 
^Fair,  and  exists  in  ihilch  the.  same  .state  as  attbe  above 
period;  ibr  instance,  Shepherdfstiyial-Jcety  and  houses 
surrounding  it  on  the  Ndrth  and  East  sides,  with  White- 
Hqrse-street,  Sheph^i^*s*court,  Sun-court,  Market- 
-CQurt  Westwards,  an  ope.n  ispace.  Extending  to  Ty- 
burn (now  Park)  i  Lane,  since  butlt..upon  in  Chapd'* 
Street,  Shepberd's-Stref^t*  Jdark^t-Street,  Hertford- 
jSlreet,.  &c.  Soutb^ardA  the  npted  Ducking  Pond,  house, 
and  gardens,  since  built  Upon,  in  aJarge  Riding  School, 
CSarrington-3treet,  the  residence  of  the  note4  Kitty 
Fisher,  ($tc. .  .Tlie  Market-house  consisted  of  two  stories; 
6nt  Mory,  along.and  cma8.a)sle  for  butchers'  shops,  ex- 
.temallyj  other  shops  conn^ct^  witb  culinary  purpqsei; 
a^qotnd  story,,  used  aa  a  Theaitre  M  fair  time,  for.  dni<- 
matic  petformanjces. .  My  r^cc^llection  serves  to.raia^ 
ihe/ore  miefAht  representation  of  the  Reveage«in  whieh 
ILbe  only  object  left  on  remembrance  is  the  'f  Uack 


WALItt  THftOVGIt .  LOlf0OlV«  ^MT 

man/'  Zanga.  Below,  the  batehera  gave  place  to  toy- 
men and  gingerbread-bakere.  At  present  the  uppej^ 
ttary.  is  unfloored,  the  lower  nearly  deserted  by  the 
hatchers,  and  their  shops  occupied  by  needy  ped- 
ling  dealecB  in  small  wares ;  in  truth,  a  most  deplorable 
contrast  to  what  once  was  such  a  point  of  allurement 
In.tbe  areas  encompassing  the  market,  building  weve 
booths  for  jugglers,  prize-fighters,  both  at  cudgekand 
back-sword,  boxing-matches,  and  wild  beasts.  The 
sports  not  under  cover  were  mountebanks,  fire-eatera, 
;ass  racing,  sausage  tables,  dice  ditto,  up-and-downi, 
merry-go-rounds,  bull-baiting,  grinning  for.  a  hat,  run- 
ning for  a  shift,  hasty  pudding  eaters,  eel  divers,  and  an 
infinite  variety  of  other  similar  pastimes/' 
.  Doium-Strcct,  Hamilton^Street,  and  Park-Sireei  are 
the  .only  avenues  of  any  consequence  till  we  arrive  at 
JB^dC'Park  Comer,  one  of  the  principal  entrances  of 
London  from  the  western  counties.  The  mass  of  build- 
iDgs  on  the  right  side  of.  the  street,  containing  Apti^m 
Home,  &c.  erected  from  the  designs  of  the  Adams,  cai^ 
not&il  of  impressing,  strangers  with  an  elevated  idea  of 
tbeCQpulence  and  splendour  of  the  metropolis. 

^fatk'Lane  was  called  ^^oairn  Lane  till  its.  more 
fashionable  inhabitants  .changed  its  name.  Facing 
SMnkope'Street,  in  this  direction,  is  Chesterfield  House, 
built  by,  the  celebrated  Earl  of  Chesterfield ;  the  stone 
colonades  leading  from  the  house  to  the  wings,  are  very 
beautiful ;  the  stair-case. belonged  to  the  vast  mansion 
of  the  Duke  ofChandos,  at  Cannons. 

GrosvenoT'S^are  is  entirely  surrounded  with  mag^ 
nificent  houses,  many  of  the  fronts  being  of  stone^  and 
others  of  rubbed  brick,  with  quoins,  facios,  windows, 
and  door- cases  of. stone;  ^nd  some  are  adorned  with 
stitae  columns  of  the  various  orders.  The  centre  is  k 
spacious  gailrden,  ornamented  with  a  gilt  equestnan 
statue  of  King  George  the  First. 


846  WALK8  THROUGH  LOMDOH. 

Upptr  Brook-Streei  is  a  very  fine  avenue,  and  has 
long  been  inhabited  by  noble  and  opulent  famibes. 

Tybaum  Turnpike  is  anotber  considerable  entrance 
to  the  metropolis,  from  the  great  western  road.  The 
view  over  Hyde- Park  to  the  Surrey  hills  on  the  south, 
over  Paddington  to  Harrow  on  the  north-west,  and 
the  extent  of  prospect  down  Oxford-Street,  constitute 
altogether  a  very  beautiful  avenue. 

Ojford-Strcet  extends  about  one  mile  from  east  to 
west,  and  looks  into  six  of  the  principal  squares — 
Soho,  Hanover,  and  Grosvenor-Squares  on  the  south ; 
Cavendish,  Manchester,  and  Portman-Squares,  on  the 
north. 

Portman- Square  is  next  in  beauty,  as  it  is  next 
in  dimensions,  to  Grosvenor-Square.  It  is  built  with 
more  regularity,  but  the  uniformity  of  the  houses,  and 
the  small  projection  of  the  cornices,  are  not  favour- 
able  to  grandeur  and  picturesque  efiect  This  square, 
begun  in  1764,  was  nearly  twenty  years  before  it  was 
completed. 

Manchester-Square  contains  the  residence  of  the 
Marquis  of  Hertford,  originally  inhabited  by  the  Duke 
of  Manchester,  and  afterwards  by  a  Spanish  ambas- 
sador, who  erected  a  small  chapel,  in  ^muuk  Place,  on 
the  east  side  of  his  mansion,  from  designs  by  Banomi, 
which,  for  its  classic  purity  of  style,  is  admired  by  aU 
lovers  of  architecture. 

Cavendish' Square  contains,  in  the  centre  of  its  en- 
closure, an  equestrian  statue  of  William,  Duke  of  Cum- 
berland, constructed,  in  1770,  at  the  expense  of  Lieut- 
Gen.  William  Strode. 

Pursuing  the  route  from  Manchester-Square,  we 
come  to  High-Street,  3farybone,  in  which  is  situated 
the  parish  church  of  5/.  Masy-at-Boum,  vulgarly  called 
St  Mary-la-Bonne.  The  foundation  of  the  old  church 
here  tras  laid  by  Bishop  Braybroke^about  the  year  1400, 


I 


A/I/>W  >^ ;»'.2:2/)tj .V/i. ^TfJ ->/*«!  ii'ir^i  2  ;  •:• 


WALKS   THKOUGB    LONDOll.  M9 

and  this  structure  continued  till  1741.    It  was  then 
found  necessary  to  take  it  down,  on  account  of  its 

*}      ■^'    ■-,    ■■: ^^ P^l 


WALKS  THROUGH   LONDOll.  949 

and  this  structure  continued  till  1741.  It  was  then 
found  necessary  to  take  it  down,  on  account  of  its 
ruinous  state,  when  another  diminutive  and  disgraceful 
hrick  building  rose  in  its  room ;  but  for  this  result  of 
parsioiony  a  noble  atonement  is  now  made,  in  the  new 
church  erected  a  little  to  the  northward  of  the  old  one. 
This  is  built  in  tbe  Corinthian  style  of  architecture, 
and  is  extremely  spacious. 

Opposite  the  church  stood  the  ancient  manor-house, 
pulled  down  in  1791 ;  behind  this  mansion  was  a  tavern 
and  bowling-green,  much  frequented  by  persons  of 
rank,  during  the  reign  of  Queen  Anne;  but  it  after- 
wards grew  into  such  disrepute,  that  Gay,  in  his  Beg- 
gar's Opera,  made  it  one  of  the  scenes  of  Macheath's 
debauches.  The  gardens  were  afterwards  opened  for 
public  breakfasts,  and  other  entertainments,  about  1740, 
and  continued  to  be  a  place  of  public  resort,  similar  to 
the  present  Vauxhall,  till  1777,  when  the  whole  was 
let,  and  tbe  site  since  occupied  by  the  stately  houses  of 
DevanshirC'Place, 

Returning  to  Oxford-Street  through  Marybone-Lane, 
we  come  to  Stratford-Place^  a  handsome  pile  of  build- 
ings, 

Neto  Band-Street  is  still  esteemed  an  avenue  of 
fashionable  resort ;  the  shops  here  are  much  improved 
within  a  few  years  past;  but  the  communications  from 
it  to  the  several  squares,  and  its  length,  are  its  principal 
advantages. 

In  Conduit-Street  is  Trinity  Chapel,  which  being  sold 
a  few  years  ago  to  Mr.  Robson,  a  bookseller  in  Bond- 
Street,  he  modernized  the  building  with  a  new  front> 
and  fitted  up  the  interior  with  great  neatness  and  pro- 
priety. 

On  the  east  side  of  George-Street  is  the  parish  church 
of  Si.  George,  Hanober-Square,  a  noble  stone  building. 
The  west  front  is  truly  grand,  being  supported  by  six 


SSO  VALK8  THKOUGB  LONDON. 

'ptllaraof  the  Corinthian  order,,  atn  entablalure,  and. a 
faancUotne  pedinenW  on  .the  apex  of  which  i«  a  bMe> 
apparently  a&  if  intended  to  support. a  9tatue:  and 
behind  the  columns  are  pilasters^  to  support  the  arqhi- 
trare ;  the  coroice^if  the  eniaUajture  extends,  round  the 
north  side  and  the  cast. end,  which,  is  wrought  .in  bold 
rustic ;  but  the  south  .side,  .being  aloiost  hid,  is  quite 
plain.  Mr.  Malton  observes^  'VThe  portico  isjnf<imr 
in  majesty  to  that. of  St..  Martin's  m.the  Fields,  but  is 
auperiorto  every  other;"  and  he  recoouiM^nds  an  ac< 
curate  examination,  and  measurement  of  these  tWP 
•porticos  as  an^advantageoua  study  to  a.young  architect; 
-and  remarks^  .that  gepmetricaL  drawings,  placing  the 
dimensions  of  these  porticos  in.  a  compfiraiive  view, 
would  be  a  valuable  addition  .to  his  library. . 
.'  The  steeple  of  this  church,  though  it  possesses  few 
ornaments,  is  noble  and  .-majestic,  consisting  of  a.  tower 
vising  from  the  roof. ..  It  is  of  an  octagon  shape,  having 
coupled  columns  at  thefaur  sides  of  the  Corintl^ian 
order,  and  large  windows  at  the  four  fronts.:  on  Ae 
top  of  the  entablature,  above  the  columns  are  vases 
<ioupled« ..  The  whble  is  crowned  with,  aa  elegant  dome, 
and  a  small  turret,  surmounted  by  a  ball  and  vane  .of 
copper  gilt,  >about  100  feet,  high*  The  intierior  .0/  this 
church  i&  very  handsome,  being  supported  by  .eight 
pillars  of  the  Corinthian  order,  raised:  upon  pedealak; 
a  b^md  of  ornamented  scrollwork  extends  from  .column 
to  column ;  the  intermediate  spaces  are  filled  with  sunk 
pannels^  Here  is  a  fine  painting,  supposed  by  .Sir  James 
Tbomhill.  The  church  ispewed  with  oak,  and  wain* 
acotted  eight  feet  high.  One,  and  sometimes  both  the 
chnrchwanlens  of  this  parish  are  usually  persons  of 
nobility.  .  . 

Han^Dtr'-Squarei  built  aoon  aiber  the  accession  of  the 
present  Royal  family,  as  well  ^.CheorgC'^Sineip  cxhiblta 
many  examples  -of  the  German  style  of  architeoture  in 


WALKS   THROUGH   LONDON.  '25^1 

private  houses.  On  the  east  side  are  The  Concert  Boomer 
originally  opened  under  the  conduct  of  Messrs.  Harriaon 
and  Kny  vett  Mr.  Ralph  observes,  that  **  the  view 
down  George-Street,  from  the  upper  end  of  the  sqoas^, 
is  one  of  the  most  entertaining  in  this  whole  cily;  the 
sides  of  the  squire,  the  area  in  the  middle,  the  breaks 
of  building  that  form  the  Entrance  of  the  vista,  the  vista 
itself;  but  above  all,  the  beautiful  projection  of  the 
portico  of  St.  George's  Church,  are  all  circumstanees 
that  unite  in  beauty,  and  render  the  scene  perfect/'  Mr. 
Malton  says,  ''  This  view  has  more  the  air  of  an  Italian 
scene  than  any  other  in  London."  Harewood«Hou8C# 
^n  the  north  side  of  the  square,  was  built  by  Messn. 
Adam  for  the  late  Duke  of  Roxburgh,  but  purchased 
afterwards  by  Lord  Harbwood. 

Crossing  Oxford-Street,  Holies-Street  leads  to  Cavei^ 
dish-Square,  and  hence  to  UarUy-Street,  whence  Mana- 
fidd-Street  forms  an  avenue  to  Portlond^Plaee:  .This 
is  one  of  the  most  regular  and  spacious  streets  in.  the 
world  ;  it  is  125  feet  wide,  terminated  at  the  south  end 
by  Foley  Mouse,  and  at  the  north  end  by  an  open  railing 
looking  over  the  fields  towards  the'  New  Road.  The 
ample  width  of  the  fbot-pavement,  the  .purity,  of  the 
air,  and  the  prospect  of  the  rich  and  elevated  villages 
•of  Hampstead  and  Highgate,  render  Portli<nd-Place.<a 
IDboBt  agreeable  suihmer  promenade. 
. .  Returning  by  Portland  Chapel  through  Edward-Street 
and  Bolaover-Street,  we  arrive  nearly  &cing  King-Street, 
in  which  is  King-Street  Chapel,  first,  built  of  wood'hy 
Dr.  Tennison,  and  other  well-disposed  persons.  In  1702 
jt  was  handsomely  rebuilt  of  brick,  and  is  neatly  adorned 
in , the  interior i 

Through  Major  Foubert's  Passage  is  a  way  to  G\ra^ 
Mariborough-Street  and  Pdandi-Street,  leading  to  Ox- 
foid-Street. :  Here  is  situated  The  Pantheon,  a  nobk 
•tmcture^  originally  huiit.in  the  best  style^  and  orpa* 


253  WALKS  TB ROUGH  LONDON. 

mented  with  the  richest  embellishments,  for  the  enter- 
tainment of  the  nobility,  in  the  performance  of  musical 
pieces,  masquerades  balls,  &c.  The  elegant  front  and 
portico  still  remain,  though  the  interior,  in  1799,  was 
entirely  destroyed  by  fire.  Having  lost  its  licence,  il 
has  now  been  shut  up  a  considerable  time. 

On  the  north  side  of  Oxford- Road,  at  the  end  of 
Berner's«Street,  is  T/te  Middlesex  Hospital.  At  the 
back  of  this  hospital,  in  Cleveland- Street,  is  Fitzroy^ 
Square,  still  unfinished,  though  begun  several  years 
since.  The  houses  are  faced  with  stone,  and  have  a 
greater  portion  of  architectural  ornament  than  those  of 
any  other  square  in  the  metropolis.  They  were  de- 
signed by  Messrs.  Adams. 

Grafton-Street  leads  to  Tottenham-Court- Road,  oo 
the  west  side  of  which  is  a  spacious  uncouth  chapel^ 
built  by  the  Rev.  George  Whitfield  in  1756. 

Newman-Street,  Oxford-  Road,is  remarkable  for  having 
been  the  residence  of  several  eminent  artists. 

Nearly  opposite  Newman-Street  is  Dean-Street,  Soke, 
leading  to  the  parish  church  of  St.  Anne,  Soko,  6nisbed 
in  the  year  1686,  and  dedicated  to  St.  Anne,  in  compli- 
ment to  the  Princess  Anne  of  Denmark.  The  former 
steeple  was  almost  the  only  specimen  of  Danish  archi- 
tecture in  London ;  but  the  church  having  been  repaired 
a  few  years  since,  the  steeple,  which  has  been  entirely 
rebuilt,  at  present  exhibits  a  mass  of  absurdity  peculiar 
to  itself.  To  make  the  deviation  from  all  others  more 
ridiculous,  within  a  few  feet  from  the  summit  is  dis- 
played a  copper  globe,  on  the  four  sides  of  which  are 
the  clock  dials,  which  being  supported  by  iron  bare, 
has  been  not  unaptly  compared  to  a  gypsy's  iron  pot 
prepared  for  boiling. 

Soho-Square. — In  the  centre  of  this  square  is  a  statue 
of  James  the  Second,  at  the  feet  of  which  are  figures 
representing  the  rivers  Thames,  Trent,  Severn,  and 


■'31^>!'\f^Vf- 


WALKS  THROUGH   LONDON.  S53 

Humber.    Here  is  the  residence  of  Sir  Joseph  Banks, 
and  the  house  which  formerly  belonged  to  the  Earls  of 
Carlisle,  afterwards  a  place  of  public  resort  for  balls,  mas* 
querades,  &c.  under  Madame  Corneilly.  The  grand  saloon 
of  this  house  was  purchased  and  converted  to  a  Roman 
Catholic  chapel,  under  the  name  of  St.  Patrick's  chapeL 
Soho-Square  at  this  time  contains  the  most  celebrated 
Bazaar  in  the  Metropolis,,  and  the  6rst  of  this  kind, 
opened  by  Mr.  Trotter  in  1816.    These  premises,  ori- 
ginally used  by  the  Storekeeper-General,  are  of  very 
great  extent — from  the  square  to  Dean'Streel  on  one 
hand,  and  on  the  other  to  Oxford -Street,  consisting  of 
several  rooms  conveniently  fitted  up  with  mahogany- 
counters,  and  comfortably  lighted  and  warmed,  will 
have  another  large  room  added  early  in  1817.     The 
walls  of  the  rooms  are  hung  with  red  cloth,  with  large 
mirrors  at  the  ends.  To  the  excellent  regulations  of  this 
singular  e«itablishment,  it  is  impossible  to  do  justice  in 
our  narrow  limits.    We  can  only  add,  that  a  kitchen 
here  is  furnished  with  dining-tables  fifty  feet  in  length, 
cooking  apparatus,  and  a  stove  on  a  singular  principle. 
A  man  and  woman  cook  dress  victuab,  which  are  dis- 
posed of,  as  in  a  cook  shop,  to  such  persons  belonging 
to  it  who  choose  to  partake  of  them. 

We  pass  the  intervening  space  eastward,  to  Russell 
Square  and  the  British  Museum.  Montague  House, 
which  contains  this  invaluable  treasure,  is  situated  In 
Great  Russell-Street,  and  was  built  on  a  French  model 
by  the  first  Duke  of  Montague.  The  stair-case  and 
ceilings  were  painted  by  Rousseau  and  La  Fosse.  This 
building  has,  for  many  years  past,  been  appropriated  to 
the  reception  of  The  British  Museum.  The  entrance 
to  the  vestibule,  on  the  west  side,  is  under  tall  arches, 
and  leads  to  the  various  rooms  for  studying  and  copying. 
The  paintings  on  the  stair-case  represent  Cssar  and  his 
military  retinue,  attended  by  chiefs  of  provinces  which 
he  bad  conquered.     In  a  compartment  are  the  feasts 


8S4  WALKS   THROVnCil  LONOOif;' 

and  sacrifices  of  Bacchus ;  in  another,  the  Riven  NHe 
and  Tyber  are  emblemaiically  represented.  Tbe  cetV** 
ing  exhibits  th^  story  of  Pbselon,  who/ with  all  tbe  ar^ 
dour  of  youth,  is  driving  the  sun^s  chariot,  accompanied^ 
by  the  hours,  represented  as  females.  In  the  first  rooih 
this  story  is  cooipteted  on  the  ceiling.  Over  the  .north 
dooiv  leading  to  tbe' saloon,  is  a  fine  portrait  of  Sir  MFU<- 
liam  Hamilton,  by  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds.  The  adjoin^' 
iog^'  room,  proceeding  nbrthward>  wa»  the  reading* 
room  till  the  winter  of  1803,  when  not  being  deemed 
snficiently  light,  the  af^pendages  for  study  and  research 
werC' transferred  to  the  neat  room  north,  which  is  sor* 
ttnnded  by  shelves  of  books,  secured  by  wire;  it  hasa 
vaulted  ceiling,  a.  handsome  cornice  and  a  large  marble 
chlthney^'pieGev  four  Windows,  and  several  portraits  on! 
tbe  walls.  Tbe  first  room  km  the  first  floor  is  ornamented 
with>eal  fluted  composite  pillars,  in.  pairs,  which  have 
ah  elegant  carved  entablature  and  festoons  between  the 
capitals.  •  O^tt  ihe  doors  ar^  medallions,  surrounded 
bjp  sphynites  and  cherubim  dropping  flowers.  The 
eeiling  is  sente-^val,  and-  richly  painted,  with  Jufliiev 
hurlifig^  hisfightning  at  Pbfieton.  Iw  the  roioM  for  the 
GoUiuiian  and  kiiigt's  vnanuscripts  is  an  origliial  «espjr 
of  Magna  CAor/a,  evttiosediii  aghast  frnne,  with  a 
fi«goil6nt  op  thecal,  totally,  defaced.  (Inconsequence 
of  tlM  pale^esaof  theink^  and  the indreasin^  ilkgibilitj^ 
of  Ami  mknascript,  the  trustefes  permitted  Mr.:  J,  Piht 
to^engraiveaikcsifmile  of  the  peHbct  diarter,aurh>umled 
by. the  arms  of  the  twentyufive  barons  ii^bo  witnessed 

thelking's  act       .-  4....... .:: 

•-  •  It  is  iippassible  X6  give.sdetail  of  the  Vanous  articles 
with  which  tiiis  Museum  ia  so  amply  supplied.^  Among 
thnae  in* thefaaH are  to  befoand enormboa  bkulb  'Ani 
to^  t>f  depbants,  a  prodigioas  r»m>  waUike  trophies 
tsMtt  firem  Ihcf  French  army  in  Egypt,  a  Ronftah  f ottb; 
abom  tiktae  feet  long  ahd  eighteen  inches  daep^  m  co^ 
rioua  wboden  chast,  ^  Indian!  canoe,  qoany  IBUmuak 


WALKS  'VHROU^H   I.ONPOII«  Wt. 

p^  .of.  lead,  vHh  inscriptions;  a  fiae  specimen.  qC 

petrified  wood ;  a  model,  io  wood^of  Blackfriars'-bridg^ 

aM  anotbelr  of  an  Indisin  carriage.    Against  the  tide 

of  tfa^  stair'-caae  are  many  Grcacian  and  Romatn  inkcripr 

tions,  ^nd  upon  the  stairs/antique  fountains,  a  model  of 

a  first-rate  o^aki  of  war  ready,  to  launcbi  her  tender;  i 

kr^e  marUe  foot,  Stc.    Sir  ^ilUam  Hamilton's  boUee-4 

fionia  rich  in  ahoient<iirlnoiir,  jars,  v^Sssekofstohe  and 

wood^  urns;  asbestos,  &c.  &fi.     lit  tfae'second  robih  lum 

aotne  furious  mummies,  pictures,  medallions^^iieciniena 

of  cut. paper/  rases  x>f  flowers, '&b.&c.    The  Otafaeita 

and  South  Sea  rooms  abound- in  curiosities,  natural  and 

artificial,  frdni  those  parts  of  theirorld:    Other  Toodlk 

contain  cas^  of  anitieral^  fossils,  shells,  putrefactioiiii 

reptiles,  &c.  thespoils  of  ihe  Egyptian  Campaign 9  ^tiw> 

coffins,  fragments  of  oohimns,  and' Roman  statnafyj 

BuCtc  volume  wonld  not  contain  a  description  of  every 

ailid^of  curiosity,  utility,  iod  interest,  in  this  vastcoU 

leetion;'uiuch  has  lately:  received  "the  addition  of.  the 

Elgiitinarblei.  -:  ^  •.  ,  .^ 

'^  Id'tbebird-togin  are  some  cut^ious  nests,  and  amoB% 

^hudathe  Egyptian  ibis,  and  several  varietiesiof  th^ 

bixd  of  Pandise;  thd  American  bpmming->bird,.^cji:'  . 

*  Id. th^  great  hall,  the  toost  curious  .articles: are  tM 

I^ptian.  tombsr toi  covered  with  'hie^oglyphick*   >  ^  'i 

•Fonrmbrly  persons  wishing^  io  view  this  national  de^ 

petitory 'tif  ^curiosities  were '  required  tie  lelive  theit 

names;:  and  attend  at'h. ftited  honr  ou some  other da^ 

•pfpsitited,  when  ifliey  wctefaimied  through  the  rooms 

wilAoat  respect' to  their  talrte,  object,  ot  curiosity;  but 

n6w,  .any  decenfly  dseaed  pdsson  may^  every  Mondky^ 

W«diidKiajr>  aodFriday^  (Christmas,  fiaster,  add  WUt^- 

MA  m^s,  with  the  uiontiM  cf  '  Autfust  ai^  Sept^nh^r 

excepted);  between  t)ie  hours  di  ten*  and  foo^vobtai* 

ft«^.admtsik>n;  without>fee  ordday,'4>n  stutply  wriUag 

his  or  her  name  and  addreis  in  a  bobk,'and;nia7  pate 

wa^JHi  nany  bobr«p  at  »  agreeaUe;  in  vitwhig  tod 


9S6  WALKS  THROUGH    LONDON. 

fttady ing  this  immense  and  valuable  collection.  An  ele- 
gant synofwis  of  the  contents  of  the  entire  Museum, 
consisting  of  150  pages,  is  sold  at  the  door  for  two  shil- 
lings for  those  who  may  choose  to  purchase,  and  this 
serves  as  a  guide  to  the  inspection  of  every  thing  there. 
The  Slonian  and  Cottonian  collections  deposited  there 
have  often  been  described ;  but  the  Museum  has^  wiihia 
these  five  years,  been  enriched  by  various  novelties  of 
matchless  interest,  above  all,  the  Egyptian  Antiquities, 
acquired  by  the  capitulation  of  Alexandria,  1801; 
among  which  is  the  famous  rosetta  stone,  containing 
the  triple  inscription,  the  supposed  sarcophagus  of 
Alexander,  and  many  fragments  of  sculpture,  coeval 
with  the  earliest  periods  of  Egyptian  history.  Here 
are  also  arranged,  with  the  most  elegant  taste,  thelai^ 
collection  of  Greek  and  Roman  statues,  and  other  sculp- 
tured marbles,  formed  by  the  late  Charles  Townley, 
Esq.  and  recently  purchased  by  parliament  for  20,OOoL; 
in  number,  313.  But  the  most  recent  addition  is  the 
splendid  and  perfect  collection  of  minerals,  formed  by 
the  late  Charles  Greville,  purchased  by  Parliament  for 
13,727/. :  the  whole  are  disposed  in  cabinets,  containing 
550  drawers,  while  specimens  of  the  drawers  are  ex- 
hibited in  glazed  compartments  over  them.  Besides  these 
natural  objects,  the  literary  additions  made  within  these 
few  years  are  very  considerable :  thus  the  Hargrave 
library  of  valuable  law  books,  which  cost  49251. ;  the 
Lansdowne  manuscripts;  Halhed's  Persian  andShanscrit 
manuscripts ;  500  volumes  of  curious  tracts,  collected  by 
the  late  Dr.  Lettsom;  Tyssen's  Saxon  coins;  eighty -four 
volumes  of  scarce  classics,  belonging  to  Dr.  Bentley,  with 
Roberts's  series  of  the  coins  of  the  realm,  from  the  con** 
quest  to  the  present  time;  and  for  which  many  of  the 
best  patrons  of  literature,  nearly  connected  with  this 
national  establishment,  have  considerable  claims  upon 
the  gratitude  of  the  country. 
.    For  the  Elgin  marbla^  or  the  Athenian  wu^Wrttf 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  257 

two  fpacious  rooms  were  bttilt,  in  1816,  on  the  ground- 
floor,  adjoioiog  the  Townley  and  Egyptian  galleries. 
The  smallest  room  contains  the  spirited  sculpturei 
recently  dag  up  at  Phygalia,  together  with  correct 
casts  of  statuary,  the  originals  of  which  still  adorn 
Atheus.  On  the  ground-floor  of  the  other  room  are 
displayed  the  Athenian  marbles  or  sculptures,  consist- 
ing of  several  statues,  as  the  Thaeus,  &c.  &c. ;  and  at 
tbe  height  of  six  feet  from  the  floor,  the  Friezes;  and 
a  few  feet  higher,  the  Metopes :  many  of  these  being 
tbe  work  of  Phidias,  are  extremely  interesting.  United 
to  tbe  Townley  and  other  collections,  tbe  suite  of  rooms 
here  exhibit  the  finest  display  of  the  art  of  sculpture  in 
the  world.  The  trustees  of  the  Museum  have  recently 
purchased  Colonel  Montague's  complete  collection  of 
Zoology,  as  formed  by  him  in  Devonshire,  and  which 
is  also  in  train  for  being  arranged  and  opened  to  public 
inspection. 

The  wood  cut  subjoined,  ij_a  copy  of  tbf  rf^P'Tf^^^^- 


368  WALKS   THROUGH   LOHDOIf* 

Ru99elUSquarc,  is  Considerably  larger  than  any  other 
ip  Loodon,  LincolnVbin-Fiekls  excepted.  The  tooth 
side  is  graced  by  a  pedestrian  statue,  in  brbnze,  of  the 
late  Diike  of  Bedford,  by  Mr.  Westaiacott :  his  grace 
reposes  one  arm  on  a  plough ;  the  left  hand  hokb  the 
gifts  of  Ceres.  Children  playing  round  the  feet  of  the 
statue»  personify  the  four  seasons.  To  the  four  corners' 
bulls'  beads  are  attached,  in  a  very  high  relief;  the 
cavity  beneath  the  upper  mouldings  has  heads  of  cattle 
in  recumbept  postures^  On  the  carved  sides  are  rural 
subjects  in  hano  itlUvo :  the  first  is  the  preparatieii 
fjpf  the  ploughman's  dinner;  his  wife, on  her  kaee^ 
i^ttends  the  culinary  departntent;  a. youth  isalsorepre^ 
sented  sounding  a  hotn;  two  rustics  ahd  a  team  of 
oxen  complete  thi;  group.  The  second  <iompositPNi  is 
made  np  of  reapers  aitd  gleaners ;  a  young  woman  in 
the  centre  Is  delineated  with  the  agreeable  features  and 
general  comeliness  of  a  village  favourite. 
.  These  enrichments,  the  four  seasons,  and  the  statue  of 
t)2e  Duke,  are  cast  in  bronse,  and  are  very  highly 
finished.  The  pedestal  is  of  Scotch  granite ;  and  with 
the  superstructure,  from  the  leviel  of  the  ground  to  the 
summit  of  the  monument,  measures  twenty -seven  feet. 
The  principal  figure  is  ninejeet  high.  The  only  in- 
scription in  front  is,  '*  Ftmtt^  £hike  of  Bedford ; 
erected  1809." 

The  elegant  building  near  the  corner  of  Great 
Caram-Strcei  is  devoted  to  ne  Runell  fnstUution  ;  it 
has  a  handsome  portico  with  four  pillars*  The  Insti- 
tution is  now  appropriated  to  the  formation  of  a  library 
and  lectures  on  philosophical  and  scientific  subjects. 
,  In  TavtAock-Street  is  Tavistock  Chapel,  a  modem 
imitation  olP  Gothic  architecture ;  the  interior  is  spa- 
ciouSy  but  rather  gloomy.  Hence  by  Southampon  Row 
is  an  avenue  to  Bloomsbury-Square,  the  north  side  of 
which  is  embellished  with  a  statue  of  the  late  Right 
Hon.  Charles  James  Fox.  The  work  consists  simply  of  a 


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j»ari-ii  • '     •(  'I  .  t  \'    (;. . 

•-...rly     ...         ...-..!.       ".:      . 

i>ji \\\.  '/  *    i  '-  no  il<i"i.  t'        ■    . 
1.    '.  \  »•  n.'l  f  » '  .  •.'•  .:.•  •  "i  • 
'U.  .: ,    t..    H---  •  •'. 

I    ;,  .  I   !h:    -It.    of  (.♦.   rr».>irr.  , 


I., 


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WAln   THBOUGH  LOVDOM. 

iUtue  of  cokMsal  dimensions,  being  to  a  scale  of  nine 
feet  in  height,  executed  in  bronze,  and  elevated  upon  a 
pedestal  of  granite,  sumounting  a  spacious  base,  fonned 
of  several  gradations:  the  whole  is  about  seventeen 
leet  in  height  Dignity  and  repose  appear  to  have  been 
the  leading  objects  of  the  artist's  ideas ;  he  has  adopted 
a  Mtting  position,  and  habited  the  statue  in  the  consular 
robe,  the  ample  folds  of  which,  passing  over  the  body, 
and  falling  from  the  seat,  give  breadth  and  eOect  to  the 
whole.  The  right  arm  is  extended^  the  hand  supporting 
Miigna  Charta ;  the  left  is  in  repose.  TTie  head  is  in- 
clined rather  forward,  expressive  of  attention,  firmne», 
and  complacency  :  the  likeneas  of  Mr.  Fox  is  perfect 
and  striking.  The  inscription,  which  is  in  letters  of 
bronze,  is,  "  Charles  Jambs  Fox,  erected  iff.DCCc.xvi." 
This  sutue,  and  the  sUtue  of  the  late  Duke  of  Bedford^ 
by  the  same  artist  ( Westroacott),  at  the  other  extremity 
of  Bedford- Place,  form  two  grand  and  beautiful  orna- 
ments of  this  metropolis. 

fhteen-Sireei  leads  to  I)art-Street,.  in  which  is  the 
parish  church  of  St.  George,  Bloomsbufy,  distinguished 
by  the  statue  of  George  the  First  at  the  top  of  its  spire. 
The  portico,  which  is  inferior  to  St.  Martins^  is  cer* 
thinly  magnificent.  The  inside  of  the  church  is  conve- 
nient, but  has  no  claim  to  the  elegance  which,  might 
be  expected  from  its  grand  approach. 

Returning  to  Holbom,  an  avenue  leads  to  Great 
Queen-Street,  Lincoln's  Inn  Fiekls.  Here  is  Freemaswu* 
Hall  and  Tavern,  the  first  built  in  the  purest  style  of 
masonry,  and  appropriately  cfecorated.  The  grand 
lodges  are  held  berej^and  concerts,  &c.  sometimes  per- 
formed. 

Upon  the  site  of  Queen-Street  Chapel,  in  this  street, 
a  very  spacious  building  is  now  erected  for  a  congre* 
gatioD  of  Mr.  Wesley's  persuasion, 
t   On  the  north  aide  of  Holbom  is  an  avenue  to  Red 
UomJSlfuare^hvak  on  the  site  of  Red  Lion  Fields;  this 


VWI  WALKS  THBOUOH  LONDON. 

square  has  been  considerably  improved  since  the 
gloomy  obelisk  in  the  centre  has  been  removed. 

Several  good  streets  form  a  coromnnication  with 
Queat'Square,  a  handsome  area,  surrounded  by  good 
houses;  in  the  centre  is  an  extensive  garden  with  a 
statue  of  Queen  Charlotte.  On  the  west  side  is  the 
parish  church  of  St.  George  the  Martyr,  a  plain  brick 
building,  well  enlightened  ;  the  interior  is  of  the  com- 
posite order,  with  'beautiful  enrichments,  and  an  organ. 

In  Hreat  Omumd-Street,  on  the  site  of  Powis-Place, 
stood  Powis-House,  built  by  the  Marquis  of  Powis,  in 
the  reign  of  Charles  the  Second. 

Lamb't'Conduit'Street  is  so  denominated  from  a  re- 
servoir, built  by  Mr.  Lamb,  and  leads  to  The  P^und' 
Ung'Ho^itai,  a  brick  edifice,  composed  of  two  wings, 
in  a  plain  regular  manner;  these  are  ornamented  by 
piazzas.  The  Chapel  forms  a  centre,  joined  to  the 
wings  by  arches.  Over  the  altar  is  a  fine  painting,  the 
"  Wise  Men's  Offering,"  by  CazaH.  Here  are  also 
several  beautiful  paintings  by  Hogarth  and  other  emi- 
nent masters. 

From  Bedford-Row,  Harpur-Street,  and  Red  Lion- 
Street,  we  return  to  High-Holbom,  formerly  a  pleasant 
suburb,  where  ^he  nobility  and  gentry  had  country 
todgings. 

Brownlov)' Street  is  built  on  the  site  of  a  house  be- 
longing to  Sir  William  Brownlow. 

Wanvick'Ckmrt  occupies  the  ground  of  a  mansion, 
the  property  of  the  £arl8  of  Warwick. 

Gray's  Inn  has  been  previously  described.   . 

Stafford's- Almshouses,  in  Gray's  Inn  Lane,  were 
erected  in  16.33,  by  Alexander  Sufiford,  Esq. 

A  little  further  northward  is  Etm-Ssreet,  leading  to 
Mount  Pleasant^  and  The  House  qf  Correction  for  the 
County  qf  Middlesex, — ^The  fine  gate,  the  principal  en- 
trance, is  of  PorUand  stone,  contrived  in  a  massy  style, 
with  appendages  of  fetters,  &c«  &c.  as  represented  in 
the  «rood  cut 


•TiA- 


\' 


.     ',      .   •       i  •'  «  .        t         'f       Mr     ■ 


WALKS  THROUGH  LOKDON. 


261 


This  stracture  is  on  a  level  with  Gray's  Inn  Lane  ; 
about  six  feet  lower  than  Meux's  Brewhouse,  and  as 
high  as  the  roofs  of  many  houses  in  the  space^  between 
Gray's  Inn  Lane  and  Coppice-Row.  The  whole  building 
is  of  brick  and  stone,  surrounded  by  a  high  wall  and 
buttresses. 

In  Spa  Fields  is  Northampton,  or  Spa  Vields  Ckapd, 
previously  to  1779  a  tea-house»  but  at  length  pur- 
chased as  a  Methodist  chapel,  by  the  late  Countess  of 
Huntingdon;  and  the  large  garden  being  converted 
into  a  burial  ground,  added  to  the  danger  and  incon- 
venience of  numerous  inhumations  in  the  populous 
parts  of  a  large  city. 

Rosoman's  Row  leads  to  Clcrkenwell  Close. — In  this 
place  was  anciently  a  nunnery ;  its  remains  may  still 
be  traced  in  the  walls  of  an  avenue  leading  northward 
from  St.  James's  Street  to  Short's  Buildings.  This 
priory,  founded  by  Jordan  Brisset^  for  Black  Nuns, 


262  WALKS   THROUGH    LONDON. 

about  the  year  1100,  continued  till  it  was  suppressed 
by  Henry  the  Eightli^  about  the  year  1539.  The  site 
of  this  building  soon  afler  becoming  the  inheritaoce 
of  Sir  William  Cavendish,  who  was  created  Duke  of 
Newcastle ;  he  erected  a  spacious  brick  edifice  north 
of  the  church,  and  east  of  the  Close^  long  known  by 
the  name  of  Ncwcastle-Hduse.  Previous  to  its  being 
taken  down,  about  thirty  years  ago,  to  make  room  for 
(he  row  of  bifildings  called  Newcastle  Place,  it  had  been 
occupied  by  Mr.  Gomm,  a  cabinet-maker,  kc.  A  large 
bouse,  nearly  opposKe,  at  present  occupied  by  Mr. 
Bullard,  is  said  to  have  been  the  residence  of  Colonel 
Titus,  and  the  place  of  confereAce  beTween  Cromwell, 
Ireton,  ahd  other  republicans. 

Proceeding  to  the  Spa  Fields,  We  come  to  Sadler's 
Wells, — ^This  sutomer  theatre,  first  opened  by  Mr. 
Sadler,  in  1683,  is  situated  in  a  very  pleasant  spot  by 
the  side  of  the  New  ftiver,  north-east  of  the  Spa  Field. 
The  present  building,  wholly  of  brick,  was  erected  in 
1765,  and  has  since  undergone  many  alterations,  but 
i4>pears  at  preseift  as  represented  in  the  subjoined 
wood-cut. 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  209 

Umler  the  excellent  management  of  Mr.  Charles 
Dibdin,  the  performances  here  have  been  improved 
beyond  any  precedent  in  places  of  this  description^ 
The  inside  of  this  house  has  beep  lately  rebuilt  at 
the  expence  of  1500/.  in  a  very  splendid  style,  in 
a  neat  scnii-dircla ;  and  the  Aquatic  exhibitions  pro- 
duce a  very  striking  effect. 

Returning  to  Rosoman-Street,  in  Bridewell  Walk, 
1^  pass  the  site  of  the  Quaker's  Workhouse,  afterwards 
the  exercise  ground  of  the  Clerkenwell  volunteers :  an 
immense  building  is  erecting  as  an  addition  to,  or 
rather  a  substitute  for,  the  New  Prison,  latdy  found 
inadequate  to  the  purpose,  and  falling  to  decay.  That 
now  rearing  is  principally  of  brick;  and,  it  is  said, 
will  contain  a  chapel,  a  school,  and  an  infirmary. 

Returning  to  the  southward,  we  observe  the  church 
of  Si.  James,  Clerkenwell. — The  old  cl^urcb>  partly 
that  of  the   nunnery,  becoming  very  ruinous,  was 


264  WALKS  THROUGH   LONDON. 

ttan  window.  In  the  old  church  were  moDuments  tor 
several  eminent  persons;  among  them  the  Countess 
Dowager  of  Exeter,  who  died  in  1653,  several  of  the 
noble  family  of  Booth,  Lords  Delamere,  and  that  of 
the  learned  antiquary,  Mr.  John  Weever,  author  of 
The  Funeral  Monuments.  On  the  north  side  of  the 
chancel  was  a  very  large  and  curious  old  marble  tomb 
of  the  Gothic  order,  the  middle  part  resting  on  five 
twisted  marble  columns,  in  appearance  like  a  small 
cloister,  where  laid  the  figure  of  Sir  William  Weston, 
carved  in  stone,  in  his  shroud.  The  upper  part  of 
the  tomb  was  supported  by  two  fine  columns,  each 
counter  twisted  in  basso  relievo;  and  in  the  middle 
between  the  columns  appeared  these  words  upon  a 
brass  plate: 

Spct  noD  me  fallat  qnain  in  te  temper  habebam, 
Viiigo  da  fecilem  Tot.  natom  pom.  atqae  indicem. 

A  grave  stone,  with  effigies  in  brass,  and  another 
Latin  inscription  to  the  memory  of  Isabella  SackvUk, 
the  last  Prioress,  was  likewise  in  the  old  churdi,  ex* 
pressing  that  she  was  Prioress  at  the  time  of  the  Disso* 
lulion ;  that  she  died  in  the  twelflh  year  of  the  reign 
of  Queen  Elizabeth,  &c.  In  this  fabric  was  also  interred 
Dr.  Jchn  Bell,  Bishop  of  Worcester,  1543,  and  of  the 
celebrated  Bishop  Burnet  and  his  family.  This  prelate 
was  an  inhabitant  of  St.  John's  Square. 

Sir  William  Wood,  a  great  archer,  and  the  person 
who  probably  gave  name  to  Wood's  Close,  now 
Northampton-Street,  in  this  parish,  had  an  epitaph 
against  the  south,  wall  of  the  old  church.  In  1791, 
this  monument  was  restored  by  the  Toxopholite  Society 
of  London. 

On  the  west  side  of  Clerkenwett  Green  is  situated 
The  Ses8ioH9'Houte  for  the  County  of  Middlesex.— This 
structure  was  built  in  the  place  of  one  that  stood  facing 
the  end  of  St.  John's-Street,  near  Smithfield,  and  which 


!  MTon,  LtN«X 


•^^K. 


WALKS  THKOUGB  LONDON.  965 

being  bailt  by  Sir  Baptist  Hiclu,  in  1613,  bore  tbe appel- 
lation of  Hicks's  Hall.  The  present  structure  on  the  Green 
rose  dbout  1778.  The  front  is  of  stone,  with  a  rustic 
basement ;  four  Ionic  pillars,  and  two  pilasters,  support 
an  architrave,  frieze,  and  cornice,  with  a  pediment 
above  the  pillars ;  the  windows  are  alternately  arched 
or  flat.  Over  that,  in  the  centre,  is  a  medallion  of 
George  the  Third ;  the  spaces  over  the  othe  >  are  filled 
with  the  implements  of  justice:  the  tympanum  con- 
tains the  arms  of  the  county,  and  the  roof  is  termi- 
nated by  a  dome. 

At  the  lower  end  of  Clerkenwell  Green,  in  Ray- 
Street,  opposite  Mutton-Lane,  is  the  pitiable  remains 
of  the  celebrated  fountain,  denominated  Clerks^  or 
Clerkenwell,  so  called  from  the  parish  clerks  of  the 
City  of  London,  who  formerly  met  there  annually  to 
perform  Sacred  Dramas ;  and  which,  in  those  unen- 
lightened times,  were  frequently  attended  by  the 
nobility,  as  well  as  the  Lord  Mayor  and  citizens  of  Lon- 
don. The  nunnery,  church,  and  parish,  are  supposed 
to  have  derived  their  names  from  this  well.  The  only 
memorial  upon  the  spot  is  an  inscription  upon  a  dimi*^ 
nutive  pump,  erected  in  a  small  recess  in  the  street. 

Returning  up  Clerkenwell  Green,  a  passage  by  the 
Charity-School  leads  to  St.  John's  Square,  formerly 
the  site  of  the  House,  or  Hospital  of  St.  John  of  Jeru- 
salem, founded  by  Jordan  Brisset,  who,  for  that  end, 
purchased  of  the  prioress  and  nuns  of  Clerkenwell,  ten 
acres  of  land,  for  which  he  gave  them  twenty  in  his 
lordship  of  Willinghale,  in  Kent.  The  hospital  was 
erected  about  the  year  1110;  but  the  church  was  not 
dedicated  to  St  John  the  Baptist  till  the  year  1185. 

By  the  profuse  liberality  of  bigots  and  enthubiasts, 
this  foundation  became  the  chief  seat  in  England  be- 
longing to  the  Knights  Hospitallers;  and  such  was 
theircredit  and  opulence,  that  their  prior  was  esteemed 
the  first  baron  in  thekingdom ;  but  such  was  the  antipathy 


866  WAI.M  TIIBOIIG0   LOiq>Olf« 

of  the  populace  to  those  imperious  koigfau,  tbai  the 
rebeb  of  Kent  and  Essex,  under  Wat  Tyler,  burnt  this 
stately  edifice.  However,  it  vas  afterwards  rebuilt 
more  magnificently  than  before,  and  continued  upon 
its  former  syitem,  till  entirely  suppressed  by  Henry 
tbf(  Eighth,  in  the  year  I54I.  St.  Joho's  Square  is  of 
an  oblong  form,  and  chiefly  consists  of  two  rows  of 
good  houses.  It  wa»  entered  by  two  ga&e^,  north  and 
south*  both  of  whieb  bore  evident  marks  of  antiquity; 
tb^  largest  and  most  reoiarkable  is  that  to  the  souib, 
still  called  St.  John's  Gate.  It  has  a  fine  lofty  Gothic 
arch,  and  on  each  side  over  it  w6re  formerly  inscrip- 
tions, now  obliterated,  llie  other  gate,  leading  to 
Aylesbury-Street,  though  lofty,  was  considerably  narr 
rower  than  this*  being  without  posterns,  and  was  iakea 
down  about  thirty^si^  years  ago.  The  former  of  these 
gates,  with  a  single  buttneas  of  the  old  building  in 
Jerusalem  Court,  leadibg  to  St.  John's  fiU-eet,  are  aU 
the  frail  memorials  left4>f  tUs«iagnificeKlt  priory.  The 
site  of  its  garden,  upon  a  part  of  whwJU  Rod  Lion-Sti«et 
was  built  in  1719,  was  till  then  occupied  by  mean- 
cotUges  and  gardens,  and  among  these  a  sriiaU  cow* 
farm  and  juilkphouse  stood  near  George's  Court 

The  Borth«^eaat  coraer  of  St.  John's  Square  is  occu- 
pied by  the  parish  chuich  of  St,  Mm,  CltrkenmeiL'^ 
It  asems*  that  sifter  the  demolition  of  thefildory,  the 
chc4r  pftssed  by  yaripus  deeds-to  several  tenants.  ^Afaamt 
1706^  jkbe  e^tale  came  lAto  the  hands  of  Samuel  Mit- 
chel,  Esq.  who  afterwards  erected  Bed  Uon^Street  and 
other 'buildings  fYi  this  neighbourhood.  .  This  ^oder- 
man  enlarged  and  .repaired  the  ehapei  faniH  the  west 
front,  and  roofed  the  whole  fabric,  which  he  sold,  ia 
172S,  40  tbe  commissioiiers  for  building  fifty  new 
chunches.  Tbe  west  front  of  this  chwroh  has  abU  the 
l^ppearance  of  a  Chapd  of  Ease,  notwithstanding  its 
pvyKda  has  ;been  renewed  ;aiid  considerably  devated 
fiHtbma  few  years  past;  but  tbe  eaatera  extremity 


WALKS  THKOUCn    LONDOI^.  987 

retains  much  of  its  ancient  appeanince,  particulariy 
the  windows.  The  interior  is  plain  and  neat,  and  has 
the  appearance  of  a  Doric  building.  Het*e  is  a  good 
organ. 

Through  Albemarle- Street,  across  St.  John's  Street, 
along  Sutton-Street  and  Wilderness  Row,  we  proceed 
to  Old-Street,  in  which,  nearly  opposite  Wbitecross- 
Street,  stands  the  church  of  .Sie.  Ltihtg. Middlesex,  one 
of  the  fifly  new  churches  finished  in  1733,  and  conse- 
crated on  St.  Luke's  day,  the  next  year.  The  building 
is  wen  enlightened  with  two  rows  of  windows.  '  In  the 
centre  of  the  west  front  is  the  entrance,  adorned^  with 
coupled  Doric  pilasters  ^  over  these  is  a  round  window, 
and  on  each  side  a  small  tower  covered  with  a  dome, 
and  ornamented  with  two  windows  in  front.  The  JtQwer 
of  the  church  is  carried  up  square,  and  behind  it  the 
roof  of  the  church  forms  to  the  west  a  kind  p£  pedi- 
ment, broken  by  the  rise  of  the  4ower,  to  wUfib  it 
joins  on  each  side.  The  uppermost  stage  of  tht»  dtmi* 
nishes  very  considerably;  and  the  tower,  which  is  the 
base  of  an  obelisk,  supports  on  each  side  a  dial.  From 
befice  nses,  as  a  steeple,  a  fluted  dbelisk,  reaching  to  a 
great  height,  dfrninishing  slowly,  and  being  of  a  con^ 
siderable  thickness  towards  the  top;  the  whole  is  .ten* 
minated  hy  a  i>aU  and  a  vane.  The  great  arch  of  the 
interior  is  semi-oval,  with  plain  pannels:  the  side 
aMes  are  also  anrched  and  supported  by  eight  Ionic 
pfllars,  four  pilasterB  and  entablature.  The  ahar-j»iece 
b  Doric,  under  a  Venetian  window;  and  the  pulpit 
and  its  sounding  board  are  supported  by  Corinthian 
pillars.  The  organ  was  the  gift  of  Mr.  Buckley,  aa 
eminent  brewer  in  Old-Street. 

Nearly  opposite  to  this  church,  on  the  south  side  of 
the  street,  is  Golden^Lane, — ^Ati  avenue.  Tunning  4)e- 
twcen  this  and  Whitecrioss*Street,  named  Play-house 
Yard,  a  contemptible  miniature  lof  Rag  Fair,  is  built 
upon  the  site  of  the  Fortune  Play -house,  founded  %y 


268  WALKS   TUEOUGH    LONDON. 

Alleyu>  the  Comedian.  The  front  of  the  old  house, 
in  Golden  Lane,  which  is  depicted  in  tlie  wood- 
cut, with  various  raised  figures  in  front,  is  by  some 
supposed  to  have  been  a  nursery  for  the  children  of 
Henry  the  Seventh,  and  by  others,  to  have  been  a  Uvem. 


Old-Street'Square  is  mostly  taken  down,  and  a  new 
one,  now  called  Bartholomew-Squarc,  with  an  en- 
closed area  in  the  centre,  is  nearly  erected  in  its  place. 
In  Pest-House  Row  is  The  French  Hospital,  erected  in 
1717.  This  foundation  is  plentifully  supplied,  and  is 
solely  for  the  benefit  of  poor  French  Protestants,  in- 
eluding  even  lunatics.  Its  immense  garden,  which 
extended  to  RalelifT-Row  on  the  north,  and  to  the  back 
of  Ironmonger-Row  westward,  has  been  covered  with 
several  new  streets  since  the  year  1804,  where  num* 
bers  of  the  houses  unlet  or  unfinished,  are  hastening  to 
a  state  of  ruin. 

Pest'House  Row  contains  the  almshouses  founded 
by  George  Palyn,  citizen  and  girdler,  for  six  poor 
members ;  nearly  opposite  is  another  set  of  almshouses, 
which  rose^  in  1616,  from  the  bounty  of  Edward  Al- 


f-         ',-      K'*     '.         «.■ 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDOK;  9^ 

kyn,  founder  of  Dulwich  College.    Here  are  ten  poor 
men  and  women. 

Si.  Luke's  Hospital  is  appropriated  for  the  reception 
of  lunatics.  The  building  is  of  brick  and  stone.  The 
centre  and  ends  project  a  little^  are  carried  higher  than 
the  two  parts  which  connect  them  together^  and  are 
distinguished  also  by  a  little  more  decoration  of  stone. 
In  the  front  is  a  broad  space,  inclosed  with  a  wall, 
which  is  relieved  by  a  portico  in  the  centre.  The  en- 
trance is  by  a  flight  of  steps^  under  a  cover>  supported 
by  columns. 

This  hospital,  it  will  appear,  is  not  only  better  con- 
structed, but  better  conducted  than  some  others  in  the 
metropolis,  which  have  been  the  merited  objects  of 
parliamentary  investigation,  from  which  it  appears 
that  though  the  exposure  of  the  patients  at  Bethlem, 
&c.  used  to  be  attended  with  some  abuses,  even  these 
were  less  culpable  than  others  which  have  been  since 
detected  and  exposed. 

At  the  comer  of  the  City  Road,  where  it  is  crossed 
by  01d*Street,  is  situated  The  City  of  London  l^ing* 
In  Hospital.  This  building  consists  of  a  centre  and 
two  wings,  the  latter  projecting  a  little  from  the  main 
buildittg.  In  the  front  of  the  centre  is  a  very  neat  but 
plain  pediment,  and  in  this  part  of  the  building  a 
chapel,  the  top  of  which  is  crowned  with  a  light  open 
turret,  terminated  by  a  vane. 

>  01d*6treet-Road  was  formerly  part  of  a  Roman  road 
from  Colchester,  Sec. 

To  the  south  of  the  Lying-in  Hospital  lies  Moorfields. 
The  Artillery  Ground  is  a  spacious  enclosure,  which 
has  preserved  the  name  it  bears  from  having  been  the 
place  of  exercise  for  the  Artillery  Compamf.    . 

Opposite .  Bunhill  Fields  Burial  Ground  is  a  very 
handsome  chapel,  built  by  the  late  Rev.  John  Wesley, 
in  the  place  of  another  upon  Windmill-Hill,  called  the 
OU  Fomndery,  having  been  used  as  late  as  1716  for 


970  WALKS  THIOUqU  LONDON. 

o^ing  cwAOon.  It  w^s  in  this  foundery  St  Paul's  great 
bell  was  re-cast 

.  Further  on  io  the  street  formerly  called  Tohtmaclc 
Walk,  w^  account  of  the  meeting-house  built  there  by: 
the  late  Rev.  George  Whitfield,  is  a  large  square  build- 
ing vitbottt  elegance. 

.  At  the  end  of  this  street,  in  Old  Street  Road,  is  a 
famous  spring,  dedicated  to  St.  Agnu,  and. from  the 
tokiisparency  and  salubrity  of  its  waters,  denominated 
Si^Agna  Ia  Clair,  or  vulgarised  to  Anniteed  Clear. 
Io  the  reign  of  Henry  the  Eighth,  it  was  thus  named^ 
*^'' Fons.voc,  Dame  Agnes  a  Clere/'  and  had,  no  doubt, 
been  .turned  to  advantage  by  the  priests  of  former  times. 
In  t  survey  taken  of.  tbe.posseasioos.of  the  prebendal 
cslaie  of  Halliwell,  aUas  Finsbury,  it  is  noticed  as.  the 
ytell  called  Dame  Agn€9  tlte  Cleere,"  By  the  pfurlia- 
mentary  surveys  taken  in  1650^  it.  is  stated  to  hav^  Utn 
on;  .waste  land,  and  to  have  belonged  to  Charle$  St^mt, 
hue  King  of  England. 

'.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  road,  at  the.  north  end  of 
Pi^U'Street^  in  Haberdasher's  Walk,  is  situated 
AAs's  Hospital,  vulgarly .  called  The  Haberdasher's 
Abashousea..  The  biuldipg,  which  is  of  brick  and  stone, 
is  four  hundred  feet  long,  with  an  ambulatory,  in  firont 
0f  9^  ftet,  under  a  piazza,  elevated  on  stone  columns 
ei  t|ie  Tuscan  order.  In  fehe  middle  of  the  structure  ia 
a  chapel  adorned  with  columns,  entablature,  and  pedi-» 
toeot  of  the  Ionic  order,  and  under  the  pediment  is  a 
niche,  with  a  statue  of  the  founder,  in  )iia  livery  g«wii» 
and  under  him  a  Latin  inacriptioit ;  and,  on  the  other 
side,  ia  another  in  £ng1iA.  The  chapel  here  is  opened 
tolhe.pablicoa Sundays,  &a.  fiac Divine &ryiceu 

Old-Street  ^Rood  continues  to  the  London  PK&tice,  a 
||dblic*hou9e  which  has  borne  that  s^n  many  years, 
repvesentikig  a  youth  thni^ng  Ins.  arma  down  thn 
thifoMtf  of  two  lions. 

OppoBite  to  this  is  Tke  Cmrtain  JBoa<i^,flo  named 


WALKS   THROUGH   LONBON.  S7l 

from  one  of  tbe  oldest  tbeatret  in  Londofi,  having  for 
its  original  sign  a  striped  curtain. .  Hichard  Tarleton« 
one  of  Qaeen  Elizabeth's  twelve  players,  exhibitqd 
here,  as  did  also  Richard  Burbage,  Ben  Jonson,  &C. 
The  performers  here  were  styled  the  "  Prince's  servants 
till  tbe  accession  of  Charles  the  First  to  the  crow|i> 
when  it  diminished  to  a  place  for  prize-fighterst-^Its 
lite  is  uncertain. 

Facing  the  end  of  Old-Street  Road,  at  the  north  end 
of  the  street  called  Shoreditch,  is  situated  tbtf  ptrisb 
church  of  Sf.  Leonard,  Shsreditch,  built  in  17B5,  upon 
the  site  of  the  iinctent  church  of  that  name.  A  double 
flight  of  steps  leads  to  a  portico  of  the  angular  ]|ind> 
supported  by  four  Doric  columns^and  bearing  ad  anglilar 
pediment  The  body  of  the  building  is  plain,  but  Wdl 
enlightened,  and  the  steeple  elegant,  light  and  lofty. 
The  tower,  at  a  proper  bright,  has  a  seriei  of  lonijS 
columns,  with  scrolls  on  their  entablature,  which  fomn 
the  base  of  as  many  Corinthian  columns  on  pedestalii 
and  support  a  dome,  on  whose  entablatlife  reits  tbe 
spire,  standing  upon  foikr  balls,  whidi  give  It  ao:ad? 
dttional  bir  of  lightness.  The  tower  contains  tjen  good 
bells. .  Tbe  painted  windows  in  this  church  are.  rc^ 
embellisbments. 

In  H&fyweil  Lane,  on  the  western  side  of  this  atreet^ 
anciently  stood  the  priory  for  Benedictine  nuos»  founded 
by  Robert  Fitzgelran  in  the  time  of  Richafd  the  FiM, 
and  after  many  reparations,  re-edified  by  Sir  Thcinaft 
Lovell,  Knight  of  the  Garter,  in  the  reign  of  HeAry 
the  Vllth,  who  was  buried  In  a  chapel  here,  greeted 
at  his  own  expence.  •  In  ooaomemoration  of  so  grtnt  a 
beoefattor^  the  following  Iims  were  ^intdl  oiiiMost 
of  the  windows^— 

•'  All  tlM  Ma&fli  la  Hdly-well, 

*'  Pray  fir  the  sonl  of  Sir  Tbomai  LoreH." 


97i  WALKS   THROUGH    LONDON. 

Sk&reditch  is  supposed  to  have  derived  its  name  from 
Sir  John  Sordig,  the  lord  of  the  maaor  in  the  reign 
of  Edward  the  Third,  and  not  from  the  idle  story  of 
Jane  Shore  dying  for  want  in  the  reign  of  Richard  the 
Third.  Against  this  notion  the  testimony  of  Sir  Thomas 
More,  who  lived  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the  Eighth,  is 
a  sufficient  objection.  Speaking  of  this  once-celebrated 
beauty,  he  says,  "  Proper  she  was  and  fair ;  nothing 
in  her  body  that  you  would  have  changed ;  but  you 
would  have  wished  her  somewhat  higher.  Thus  say 
they  who  knew  her  in  her  youth.  Albeit  some  that 
now  see  her  (for  she  yet  liveth,)  deem  her  never  to 
have  been  weH-visaged;  for  now  she  is  old,  lean, 
withered,  and  dried  up ;  nothing  left  but  rivelled  skin 
and  hard  bone." 

Sir  John  de  Sordig  was  ambassador  from  Edward  the 
Third  to  the  Pope,  and  was  buried  in  Hackney  Church. 

A  little  to  the  west  of  Holywell  Lane,  where  Chapel- 
Street  and  others  now  stand,  was  anciently  the  spring 
or  well  which  gave  name  to  the  whole  liberty,  as  well 
as  to  the  priory  just  noticed ;  the  whole  probably 
originating  in  some  healing  qualities  ascribed  to  the 
waters  in  these  times  of  ignorance  and  pious  fraud. 
This  spot,  either  in  consequence  of  the  great  plague, 
or  the  great  fire,  afterwards  became  elevated  into  a 
mount,  which  being  levelled  in  1777,  was  built  upon« 
as  beforementioned,  and  now  contains  a  chapel  and  a 
burial  ground. 

Returning  again  to  the  eastward,  we  come  X,o  Norton 
Palgate,  probably  derived  from  being  the  gate  of  the 
narikem  fold,  without  Bishopsgate. 

S^iial  Fields  being  comparatively  a  new  neighbour* 
hood,  here  are  few,  or  rather  scarcely  any  vestiges 
of  antiquity,  though  Patemoster»Row  probably  de* 
rived  its  name  from  some  houses  where  rosariea^ 
relicts,  &c.  were  sold  to  the  devotees  <tf  those  daysii  on 


•m 


''•^~  A  ■,..\:7.-^ .^^  ■ 


.WALKS   THBOUOH   LONDON.  373 

iheir  walks  to  St.  Mary's  Spital,  or  the  monastery  of 
Holywell.    We  also  read,  that  near  this  spot  in  Pater- 
noster-Row, Richard  Tarleton,  the  famous  player  at ' 
the  Curtain  Theatre,  kept  an  ordinary  in  these  pleasant 
fields.'' 

The  once  celebrated  herbalist  Nicholas  Odptpper^ 
was  also  an  inhabitant  of  Spitalfields.  He  died  ia 
1654,  in  a  houne  he  occupied  then  in  the  fields,  but 
now  a  public-house  at  the  comer  of  Red  Lion  Coart, 
in  Red  Lion  Street,  and  which,  though  it  has  under- 
gone several  repairs,  still  exhibits  the  appearance  of  a 
part  of  Old  London. 

Chriit-Chufch,  Spitalfidds,  was  begun  in  1733,  as  Mie 
of  Queen  Anne's  fifty  new  churches,  and  finished  in 
J  729.  It  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  Church* 
Street,  and  at  its  western  extremity,  its  principal  en* 
trance  facing  Union-Street. 

This  is  a  sUtely  edifice,  built  of  stone,  the  height  of 
the  roof  forty-one  feet,  and  of  the  steeple  334.  To  the 
Doric  portico  there  is  a  handsome  ascent  by  a  flight  of 
steps.  The  steeple  contains  twelve  belk,  and  excellent 
chimes,  which  perform  four  times  a  day.  Sir  Robert 
LadbnAe's  monument  in  this  church,  is  a  beautiful 
specimen  of  Mr.  Flaxman's  abilities. 
.  The  tower  has  arched  windows  and  niches,  and  on 
its  diminishing  for  the  steeple,  is  supported  by  the 
beads  of  the  under  comers,  which  form  a  kind  of  but- 
tresses; from  this  part  rises  the  base  of  the  spire,  with 
an  arcade.  Its  comers  are  in  the  same  manner  sup« 
ported  with  a  sort  of  pyramidal  buttresses,  ending  in 
a  point ;  the  spire  terminates  with  a  vase  and  fane. 

The  hamlet  of  Bethnal  Green,  adjoining  Spitalfidda 
and  Shoreditch,  formerly  belonged  to  Stepney.  On 
Bethnal*6reen,  once  a  very  pleasant  spot,  was  an  an* 
cient  house  called  Biihop  Bonner's  Palace  ;  but  though 
it  does  not  appear  that  Bonner  resided  here,  there  is  no 

T 


374  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

doubt  that  this  was  originally  a  part  of  a  manor  he- 
longing  to  the  Bishops  of  London. 

Near  the  north-east  corner  of  Hare-Street,  Spital* 
fields,  stands  the  parish  church  of  &.  Matthew,  BethnaU 
Green,  erected  in  1740,  a  neat  brick  edifice,  quoined 
and  coped  with  freestone.  The  tower,  which  is  not 
high,  is  of  the  same  materials. 

Aldgate-Hause,  which  stood  on  the  east  side  of 
BethnaUGreen,  built  by  Sir  John  Go<]lldsborough,  in 
164S,  was  a  noble  old  mansion ;  and  being  decorated 
by  Its  owner,  in  1760,  with  the  remains  of  the  city- 
gates,  and  particularly  the  most  valuable  parts  of  Aid-* 
gate,  consisting  of  RooaaOi  Runic,  Saxon,  Norman, 
Danish;  and  English  bricks,  bass-relievos  and  sculp- 
tures, it  obtained  the  tiKmecs^  Jldgate-Hotue.  Thb 
bouse  has  siqce  been  pulled  down  to  give  place  to  a 
dissenting  place  of  worship,  and  several  new  houses. 

Returning  to  Brick-Ldne,  Spital-Fields,  and  passing 
the  house  of  the  Court  of  Requests  bc^longing  to  the 
Tower  Hamlets,  we  arrive  at  the  high  road,  and  the 
parish  church  of  St,  Maty,  Whitechapel,  This  building, 
erected  in  1673^  is  nearly  square,  and  is  separated  into 
ihree  aisles  by  four  round  and  four  square  pillars.  The 
centre  intercolumniation  on  each  side  forms  a  large  arch, 
similar  to  those  of  transepts,  nearly  plain ;  this  inter* 
sects  that  of  the  nave;  two  otherfc  on' the  sides  inclose 
diminutive  Venetian- 'celestory  windows:  pilasters  on 
the  north  and  south  walls  support  the  entablatures  of 
the  pillars>  between  which  are  larg^  Venetian  windows. 
The  galleries  do  not  interfbfe  with  th^  ^^illars ;  that  for 
the  organ  is  remarkably  handsome/ and  ha»  a  rich 
carving  on  the  front,  of  David- playing  on  the  harp, 
surrounded  by  musical  instruments  and  fruit  in  festoons. 
The  altar-piece  con^kt^  ef  two  composite  pillars,  imi« 
kattons  of  lapislazuli,  suppling  a  pediment ;  the  earr- 
ings are  elegant.  Several' Roman  remains  have  been 
found  in  this  parish. 


WALKS  THROUGH   LONDON.  975 

On  tbe  sooth  side  of  the  road  stood  WhUechapel 
Mount,  raised  by  order  of  the  Parliament  that  opposed 
Charles  the  First.  Within  a  few  years  past,  this  mount 
has  been  levelled,  and  the  spot  is  now  covered  with  good 
houses,  called  Mount  Place. 

Nearly  adjoining  is  one  of  the  most  distinguished 
charitable  foundations  of  any  in  England,  The  London 
HotpitaL  This  edifice  is  neatly  constructed  of  brick — 
plain,  yet  elegant ;  consisting  of  one  extended  front» 
without  either  wings  or  inner-courts :  the  whole  is  seen 
at  one  view.  To  tbe  middle  door  is  an  ascent,  by  a 
fii^t  of  steps  ;  and  over  this  a  very  large  angular  pedi- 
ment extends,  and  within  it  is  a  dial.  Above  the  ground* 
floor  extend  two  series  of  sasfa  windows,  each  consisting 
of  twenty- three.  The  number  of  windows  and  the 
length  of  the  building,  give  the  whole  an. air  of  dignity. 

The  turnpike  at  Mile  End  terminates  the  boundaries 
of  the  metropolis  towards  Essex. 

At  the  bottom  of  Cannon  Road  is  the  parish  church 
of  5r.  George  in  the  East,  This  massy  structure,  finished 
about  ihe  year  1793,  is  erected  in  a  very  singular  taste, 
by  Hatvksmoor  and  Gibbs.  Tbe  floor  is  raised  a  con- 
siderable way  above  the  level  of  the  ground ;  the  ascent 
to  the  principal  doior  is  by  a  double  flight  of  steps,  cut 
with  a  sweep,  and  defended  by  a  low  wall  of  the  same 
form.  Over  the  body  of  the  church  there  are  four 
turrets,  and  one  on  the  tower ;  the  latterin  the  manner 
of  a  fortification,  with  a  staff  on  the  top,  for  an  occa* 
sional  flag.  The  interior  is  of  the  Doric  order,  con- 
taining two  pillars  on  each  side,  a  massy  intercolumnia- 
tion,  aiid  semi-oval  arch,  crossed  by  a  rich  band.  The 
east  and  west  ends  are  supported  by  strong  square 
pillars  and  entablature;  these,  with  their  pilasters, 
form  four  small  squares,  between  which  are  aisles,  ter- 
minating east  and  west.  The  altar  is  a  semi-circle, 
with  a  good  painting  of  Jesus  in  the  Garden,  by 
eiarkson. 


5276  WALKS  THROUGH   LONDON. 

Near  the  end  of  Rosemary-Lane,  at  the  eatremitj  of 
this  parish,  is  Wellclost»  Square,  the  priocipa]  ornament 
of  which  is  the  Danish  Church,  situated  in  the  centre  ; 
the  corners  are  faced  with  rustic.  The  windows,  large 
and  well-proportioned,  are  cased  with  stone,  with  a 
cherub's  head  at  the  top  of  the  acch ;  and  the  roof  it 
concealed  by  a  blocking  course.  The  architect  of  this 
edifice,built  atthe  expense  of  Christian  the  Fifth,  Eing  of 
Denmark,  in  1696,  was  Caiui  Gabriel  Cibber,  who  also 
erected  a  monument  here  to  his  wife,  Jane,  mother  of 
CoUey  Gibber,  the  famous  dramatist.  This  church 
was  visited  in  1768,  by  Christian  the  Seventh,  King  of 
Denmark,  whilst  he  remained  in  this  country. 

On  a  line  with  this  square,  but  farther  to  the  east,  it 
Princei-Square,  containing  The  Swedes'  Church,  a  hand* 
some  building,  the  comers  wxought  in  a  plain,  bold 
rustic,  and  the  body  divided  into  a  central  part,  project- 
ing forwarder  than  the  rest,  and  two  sides.  The  central 
part  has  two  tall  windows,  terminated  hy  a  pediment, 
with  an  oval  window  in  the  midst;  but  in  the  sides 
there  is  only  a  compartment  below,  with  a  circular 
window  above.  The  tower  is  crowned  with  a  turret 
and  a  dome,  and  from  the  latter  rises  a  ball,  supporting 
the  vane,  in  the  form  of  a.  rampant  lion.  In  the  vestry 
are  several  portraits  of  eminent  persons. 
.  Rainess  Hospital  is  situated  in  Fowden  Fields,  and  u 
a  very  handsome  edifice.  Here  forty-eight  girls  are 
supported  with  all  the  jiecessaries  of  life,  and  qualified 
for  service.  On  the  first  of  May,.every  year,  two  annual 
prizes  of  100/.  each  are  drawn  for  by  six  of  the  moat 
deserving  young  women  of  the  age  of  twenty-two  or 
upwards,  who  have  been  educated  in  Mr.  Raines's 
charity-schools ;  .and  the  further  sum  of  five  pounds  for 
a  dinner  in  the  gceat  room  at  the  school-house,  for  the 
new-married  couple,  the  trustees,  visitors,  &c.  The 
husbands  must  be  of  the  Church  of  England,  and  in- 
habitants of  St  George's  in  the  East,  St  Paul,  Shadwell« 


»      i  Iwi 


N       ./ 


•■    .':    -A 


'      .  /,    .    /; 


•  .         '      .    .      I       ••     ' 

•  •    '  ' '       '  '     M     .        ,  ... 


WALKd   THROUGH    LONDON.'  277^ 

or  St.  John,  Wapping.  The  boys  educated  here  had 
an  apprentice  fee  of  3/.  which  has  since  been  increased. 

Adjoining  to  St.  Ge6rge'»  parish  is  that  of  Si,  PauVs, 
Shadwell,  derived  from  a  copious  spring  of  water,  sup- 
posed to  be  dedicated  to  St.  Chad,  issuing  through  the* 
base  of  the  churchyard  wall.  The  church  presents  but 
a  mean  appearance,  and  the  tower,  which  contains  six* 
bells,  is  carried  up  without  ornament.  The  interior  i« 
obscured  by  galleries,  which  were  gaudily  ornamented 
with  gold.  This  building,  at  present,  is  fast  approaching 
to  a  state  of  dilapidation,  so  that  proposals  have  been 
(^red  by  the  churchwardens  to  architects  and  sur- 
veyors for  rebuilding  it  entirely. 

The  parish  of  Wapping  consists  of  very  narrow  streets* 
The  church  of  S/.  John,  Wapping^  stands  on  the  north 
side  of  the  street,  called  Wapping  High -Street.  It  is 
built  entirely  of  brick,  and  consists  of  a  plain  body» 
with  a  tower  and  dome,  surmounted  by  a  vane. 

To  form  the  London  Docks,  great  part  of  the  parish 
of  Wapping  has  been  excavated ;  and  these  excavations 
extend  along  the  Thames  almost  to  RatclifT  Highway, 
and  are  enclosed  by  a  wall  of  brick,  lined  with  ware- 
houses. St.  George's  Dock  covers  the  space  from  Vir- 
ginia-Street almost  to  Old  Gravel- Lane  in  one  direction, 
and  is  capable  of  holding  500  ships,  with  room  for 
shifting. 

Another,  called  Shadwell  Dock,  adjoining,  wilt  hold 
about  fifty  ships ;  and  the  entrance  to  both  is  by  three 
basons,  capable  of  containing  an  immense  quantity  of 
small  craft.  The  inlets  from  the  Thames  into  the  basons 
is  at  the  Old  Hermitage  Dock,  Old  Wapping  Dock,  and 
Old  Shadwell  Dock.  The  foundation  of  the  entrance 
bason  to  these  was  laid  on  the  26th  of  June  1803,  by 
the  Chancellor  of  the  Exchequer,  with  the  first  stone 
of  a  tobacco  warehouse.  Since  the  conclusion  of  the 
late  peace  with  France,  tbJA  busy  scene  has  undergone 
a  coDsideraUe  change* 


978  WALKS  TRKOUGH  LONDOK* 

ne  lUyaUy  Theatre,  near  Wendose-Sqaare,  after 
various  long  intervals  of  suspension  and  diutling-up, 
has  been  recently  opened  under  the  new  name  of  The 
Ea$t  London  Theatre^  or  the  late  Royalty,  for  the  per^ 
formance  of  light  pieces^  burlettee,  equestrian  feats,  &c 
Having  concluded  our  perambulations  in  this  part  of 
the  metropolis,  we  now  proceed  by  London  Bridge  to 
the  south  side  of  the  Metropolis. 


r\  ■ 

i 


moj^i* 


j->.fhjK'.'.  c-  rr.z^r^^s-rr/'^'.'A'^.i^.i.'.i 


'      .    hi.'. 


'  *•■  •.'.    \.  •»•:•  :• 


f     V     •  t 


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;_  4    ,f  I,    .   r.     •. 

--.  ■• }.  I. 


J- 


t'TJ    .1    .* 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  979 


jbi!ittt]ftb)ftt&^ 


WALK.  L 

From  ike  foot  qf  L^mdon-Bridge,  down  TooIiy*Sireet,  to 
Honcfydown  and .  Bermondsey  ;  return  through  Ber* 
monde^'Street  to  the  Mate,  and  by  St.  Homa»'s 
Hospital  to  High'Sireet ;  thence  through  St.  Saviour's 
Ckureh-Yard  to  Montague-Close,  Bankside,  Borough^ 
Market,  and  Blacknuuk-Street,  to  the  Obelisk,  St. 
George* s  Fields. 

THE  Borough  of  Soulhwark  extends  southward  from 
London-Bridge  to  Newington — ^to  the  south-west,  al- 
mo0|  to  Lambeth-^-rand  to  Rotherhithe  in  the  East : 
it  contains  the  parishes  of  St.  Clave,  St.  Sanour,  St 
John,  St.  Thomas»  and  St  George.  The  principal 
streets  in  it  are,  the  Borough,  or  High-Street,  Black- 
mao-Street,  Long-Lane*  Kent-Street,  Tooley,  or  St. 
Olave's-Street,  and  Bermondsey,  corraptly  called  Bar- 
naby-Street 

.  We  commence  our  survey  at  St.  Olave's,  or  Tooleyw 
Street,  which  is  very  long,  and,  in  general,  very  dirty, 
owing  to  the  number  of  carts  continually  passing  with 
goods  from  the  different  wharfs  on  the  south  side  of 
the  Thames. 

Before  we  enter  Todey-Street,  looking  northward 
^ver  the  bridge,  «(grand  entrance  to  the  city  presents 
itself.  The  fine  steeple  of  St.  Magnus,  the  Monument, 
the  rise  of  Fish-Street-HUt  Fishmongers'-Hall,  St 
Michael,  Crooked-Lane>  and  a  number  of  spires  and 


880  WALKS  THROUGH   LOlfOOll. 

towers  in  the  back  ground,  form  an  assemblage  very 
striking  and  magnificent. 

At  a  small  distance  from  London-Bridge,  on  the 
north  side  of  the  street,  is  the  Church  of  St.  Olave,  built 
upon  the  site  of  an  old  one^  and  finished  in  1739.  It 
consists  of  a  plain  body,  strengthened  with  rustic 
quoins ;  the  windows  are  placed  in  three  series — the 
lowest  upright,  but  very  broad — the  upper  circular  and 
semi-circular.  The  tower,  containing  eight  bells,  con- 
sists of  three  stages,  the  uppermost  greatly  diminished  ; 
in  this  stage  is  the  clock,  and  in  those  below,  large  win* 
dows.  The  interior  is  very  grand,  and  in  the  west 
gallery  is  a  good  organ.  Stow  mentions,  "  that  there 
had  been  a  great  house,  built  with  stone,  over  agaitist 
this  church,  on  the  south  side  of  the  street,  with  arched 
gates,  which  pertained  to  the  Prior  of  Lewa,  in  SuM$ex/* 
Eastward  from  this  church  is  a  quay,  built  in  1*190,  by 
Isabel,  widow  to  Hamond  Goodcheape;  adjoining  to 
which  was  a  great  house,  of  stone  and  timber,  belonging 
to  the  Abbots  of  St.  Augustine,  Canterbury,  one  of 
the  fiuest  built  houses  on  that  side  of  the  river,  over 
against  the  city.  This  structure  was  held  of  the  Earls 
of  Warren  and  Surrey.  Si.  Olave't  Free  Schooi  is 
called  the  Free-School  of  Queen  Elizalieth. 
•  Bridge-House, — This  foundation  seems  to  have  been 
coeval  with  London-Bridge,  and  was  appointed  as  a 
store-house  of  stone,  timber,  and  other  materials  for 
its  reparation ;  it  was  also  a  grainery  for  com  in  times 
of  necessity,  and  had  ovens  to  bake  bread  for  the  poor. 
.  Below  the  Bridge- House,  on  the  banks  of  the  Thanaes, 
stood  the  Abbot  qf  Battle's  Jwu  The  walks  and  gar- 
dens belonging  to  this  Abbot,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
way,  before  the  gate  of  that  house,  were  called  The 
Mate.  BaUle^Bridge  was  named  from  being  situated 
on  the  ground,  and  over  a  water-course  flowing  out  of 
the  Thames,  belonging  to  Battle  Abbey.  This  place  is 
now  called  Mill-Lane;  and  here  an  extensive  and  use- 
ful improvement  might  be  formed,  by  opening  the  end 


WALK!  THROUGH   LONDOlf.  961 

next  the  Thania,  end  cooTerting  the  whok  Iweadtb  of 
the  street  to  stairs,  by  which  commerce  might  be  mora 
enily  aod  quickly  conreyed  from  the  New  Ciutom- 
HoQse  to  all  parts  of  the  Borough. 

Farther  to  the  east  is  Harsley-daum,  corrupted  from 
Haru  dawn,  haTing  been  originally  a  grazing*groond 
for  hor»es.  Here  is  the  parish  church  of  Si.  Jokm  the 
Eoai^iiMt,  finished  in  the  year  17S9,  as  one  of  the  fifty 
new  ones.  The  body  has  two  ranges  of  windows,  with 
a  Venetian  one  in  the  centre.  The  tower  rises  square^ 
with  a  balustrade  on  the  top,  from  whence  a  spire  rises 
in  form  of  a  Corinthian  pillar,  well  wrought,  and  very 
properly  diminished.  In  the  tower  are  ten  good  bells, 
and  the  interior  is  handsomely  and  neatly  ornamented. 

Returning  westward,  we  arrive  at  Bermondsey'Sireet, 
at  the  south  end  of  which  was  a  priory,  dedicated  to 
St  Saviour,  founded  by  Alwine  Child,  a  citizen  of  Lon* 
don,  in  1081.  In  1094  William  Rufusendowcd  it  with 
the  manor  of  Bermond's  Eye,  an  ancient  demesne  of  the 
crown :  among  the  lands  and  tenements  belonging  to  it 
were  Camberwell,  Rotherhithe,  the  hide  of  Soulhwark, 
Dulwich,  Waddon,  and  Reyham,  with  their  appnrte- 
nances.  Having  other  considerable  grants,  after  the  . 
dissolution,  it  was  valued  at  474/.  14«.  4d.  and  was 
granted  by  Henry  the  Eighth  to  Sir  Thomas  Pope, 
who  pulled  down  the  church,  and  built  a  large  house 
upon  the  site;  afterwards  becoming  the  possession  and 
residence  of  the  Earls  of  Sussex,  they  were  obliged  to 
build  a  place  for  public  worship,  upon,  or  near  the  site 
of  the  present  parish  church  of  St,  Mary  Magdalen. 
This  was  built,  in  1680,  at  the  charge  of  the  parish, 
and  is  a  plain  structure,  covered  with  stucco,  seventy- 
six  feet  long,  and  sixty-one  in  breadth.  The  whole  of 
the  remains  of  the  priory,  a  little  to  the  south  of  the 
church,  as  to  any  external  vestiges  of  them,  are  ob-» 
literated  since  the  new  buildingiBroBe,  called  Bermanth^ 
Square,  and  which  till  then  presented  an  aspect  truly 
veneraUe. 


988  WALKS   THR09GB   LOMDON. 

lb  Beratondicy  *Slreet  was  lately  a  very  old  imi,  calkd 
Ckrittopher't  Inn,  en .  which  was  a  rude  emblem,  in 
stucco,  of  St.  Christopher.  .  Christopher's,  valgarly  On* 
ciJtX'Lane,  leads  to  Snow's^Fields.  Through  the  Maxc 
before-mentioned,  there  is  an  avenue  to  St.  Thomas's- 
Street,  in  which  is  situated  Gt^'s  Hospital.  We  pass 
to  this  building  through  a  noble  iron  gate,  hung  on 
handsomfe  piers,  which  open  into  a  square^i  In  the 
centre  is  a  brazen  statue  of  the  founder,  in  his  livery* 
gown,  very,  well  executed,  and  in  the  front  of  the 
pedestal  this  inscriptipn : 

'^  Thomas  Gut,  solb  Founder  of  this  Hospital 
Iff  BIS  LiPH  TIME,  A.D.MDCCXXL'' 

*  On  the  west  side  is  a  representation,  in  relievo,  of  the 
parable  of  the  good  Samaritan ;  on  the  south,  Mr.  Guy's 
ahns,  and  on  the  east,  Jesus  Christ  healing  the  impotent 


Tlie  superstructure  of  this  hospital  contains  three 
stories,  besides-  garrets,  divided  into  twelve  wards,  in 
which  are  four  hundred  and  thirty-five  beds ;  and  the 
whole  building  is  so  well  planned  and  executed  that  it 
does  honour  to  the  architect,  and  afibrds  every  desirable 
aocommodation  to  the  patients  and  those  that  attend 
them.    '  . 

Onthe'wuth  sldc^of  St.  Thomas's-Street  is  situated 
the  parish  churchof  St.  Thomas,  rebuilt  in  1703.  This 
fiibric  is  plain,  constructed  with  brick,  and  enlightened 
by  a  single  series  of  large  windows ;  the  comers  are 
strengthened  and  adorned  with  rustic,  and  the  tower 
crowned  with  a  blocking  course  of  attic,  instead  of  a 
bakistrade.  The  principal  door  has  a  cornice,  supported 
by  scrolls,  wtib  a  eircular  pediment :  the  inside  is  hand- 
some and  spacious. 

-  Si.  nomads  HofptVal.-^Tfais  was  a  very  noble  and 
esinsive  <diarity,  founded  for  the  reception  of  the  ne- 
dtons  sick  and  wounded,  as  eariy  as  the  year  1S15, 


WALKS  THBOUGB  LONDOU*  989 

by  Peter  de  Rupibus,  Bisbop  of  Wincbester.  In  155h 
it  was  granted,  by  Edward  tbe  Sixib,  to  Ibe  Mayor, 
Commonality,  and  Citizens  of  London,  who  repaired 
and  enlarged  it ;  but  in  1699,  being  old  and  in  want  of 
great  repairs,  the  governors  set  on  foot  a  voluntary  sub- 
scription, and  the  building  was  begun  upon  a  still  larger 
plan,  and  erected  at  different  times  by  the  assistance 
of  various  benefactors,  till  it  was  entirely  completed* 
and  consists,  in  the  whole,  of  three  quadrangles  or 
square  courts. 

Next  the  Borough*  High- Street  is  a  handsome  pair  of 
large  iron  gates  and  stone  piers ;  on  each  of  which  is  a 
statue,  representing  one  of  the  patients.  The  square 
court  within  is  encompassed  on  three  mdes  with  a 
colonade,  and  benches  next  the  wall. 

The  centre  of  the  principal  front  is  of  stone.  On  the 
top  is  a  clock,  under  a  small  circular  pediment  and 
beneath  a  qiche,  containing  a  statue  of  Edward  the 
Sixth,  with  a  sceptre  in  his  right  hand,  and  the  charted 
in  his  led.  Lower,  in  niches  on  each  side,  is  a  man 
with  a  crutch,  and  a  sick  woman ;  and  under  them  a 
man  with  a  wooden  l^  and  a  woman  with  her  arm  in 
a  ding,  under  which  is  the  following  inscriptioii;    }. 

''  King  Edward  tbe  Sixth,  of  pious  memoiy,  in  the 
year  of  our  Lord,  1559,  founded  and  endowed  tbia 
Hospiui  of  St.  Thomas  the  Apostle,  together  with  the 
H€q[>itals  of  Christ  aad  Bridewell,  in  London/' 

The  second  court  is  by  far  the  mdst  elegaitt.  «Thtt 
Chapel  is  on  the  north  side,  adorned  with  lofty  pilaatcrs 
of  the  Corinthian  order,  placed  on  high  pedestals^  whidi 
rise  from  the  ground.  The  fronts  of  the  wards  above 
the  piazzas  are  ornaments,  with  handsome  Ionic  pila^ 
ters.  The  centre  of  this  court  contains  a  good  biaas 
statue  of  Edward  the  Sixth,  by  Scheemakers,  with  I^tia 
and  English  inscriptions,  upon  a  lofty  stooe  pwWtal, 
The  staloe  is  surrounded  with  iron  raib.    The  i 


964  WALKS  THROUGH    LONDON.' 

court  contains  a  statue  of  Sir  Robert  Claytoo,  Lord 
Mayor  of  London,  a  liberal  benefactor  to  the  hospital, 
with  a  long  inscription.  This  hospital  contains  nineteen 
wards  and  four  hundred  and  seventy  beds. 

At  the  north  end  of  the  High-Street,  formerly  called 
Long  SoutHwark,  is  a  narrow  passage  called  Pepper 
Alley,  a  plying-place  for  watermen,  through  which  is 
an  avenue  to  St,  Saviour's  Close,  commonly  called 
Montague  Close,  from  having  been  the  residence  of 
the  Lords  Montague  and  Monteagle :  the  latter  was  the 
nobleman  who,  by  the  means  of  a  letter  being  sent  to 
him,  to  warn  him  of  the  danger  of  the  gunpowder 
plot,  was  the  cause  of  its  discovery. 

Crossing  St.  Saviour's  Dock  we  arrive  upon  the  site 
of  the  ruins  of  Winchester  House,  supposed  to  have 
been  built  about  1107,  by  William  Gifford,  Bishop  of 
Winchester.  It  was  certainly  the  residence  of  those 
prelates  during  their  attendance  in  parliament;  and 
before  it  fell  into  decay,  was  one  of  the  most  magnifi- 
cent in  the  city  or  suburbs  of  London.  This  palace, 
with  the  other  buildings  belonging  to  it,  occupied  in 
front  most  of  the  Bank  Side,  now  called  Qink  Street, 
and  had  an  open  view  of  that  part  of  the  Thames  long 
since  choked  up  with  wharfs  and  warehouses.  This 
Episcopal  Palace,  according  to  the  old  plans  of  London, 
appears  to  have  formed  two  courts,  with  a  number  of 
offices,  &c.  The  south  side  was  bounded  by  beautiful 
gardens,  statues,  fountains,  &c.  and  a  spacious  paik ; 
the  east  by  the  monastery  of  St.  Saviour,  and  the  west 
by  the  Paris  garden. 

The  venerable  remains  of  Winchester  House  were 
laid  open  to  public  view  by  a  fire  which  occurred  in 
August  1814,  and  destroyed  a  long  range  of  warehouses 
and  magazines  of  corn.  After  this,  what  is  presumed 
to  have  been  the  great  hall,  exhibited  three  conjoined 
entrances  at  the  east  end,  and  a  grand  circular  window 
in  the  gable,  terininating  the  wall  at  that  point,  and 
fery  curious  and  uncommon,  from  its  scientific  com- 


WALKS  THBOUOB  LONDON.         ;285 

mixture  of  triangular  compartments.  The  tracery  of 
this  rare  window  is  intricate,  and  the  centre  of  the 
circle  peculiarly  beautiful;  its  diameter  twdve  feet 
It  was  probably  as  old  as  Edward  the  First.  A  pier 
was  seen  at  the  north-east  angle  of  the  wall,  and  part 
of  a  connecting  arch.  The  range  of  windows  in  the 
south  wall  were  nearly  entire ;  the  arches  mostly  of  a 
flat  character,  and  had  but  few  mouldings,  though  two 
doors  on  the  lower  story  were  very  elegant.  Most  of 
these  remains  were  built  in  on  the  restoration  of  the 
warehouses,  or'  destroyed.  However,  a  good  view  of 
them  is  preserved  in  the  Gentleman's  Magazine  for 
December  1814,  and  in  Wilkinson's  Londina  Illustrata. 

What  is  now  denominated  Bankside  was  formerly  a 
range  of  dwellings,  licensed  by  the  Bishops  of  Win- 
chester, for ''  the  repair  of  incontinent  men  to  the  like 
women.''  These  houses  were  distinguished  by  signs, 
and  were  under  legal  rules  and  regulations  till  the  reign 
of  Henry  the  Eighth,  when  they  were  put  down  by 
the  King's  commandment,  proclaimed  by  sound  of 
trumpet. 

Formerly  there  was  a  chapel  for  these  women  who 
became  penitents,  which  is  alluded  to  in  an  old  black 
letter  book,  printed  by  Wynkyn  dc  Woorde. 

And  ai  for  this  old  place  tiie  wenches  holy. 
That  wiU  not  have  it  called  the  Stwfs  for  foly. 
Bat  maketb  it  Strawberry  Bank, 
And  there  is  yet  a  chapel,  save. 
Of  which  they  all  pardon  hare. 
The  Saint  is  of  some  tro  thanke. 

On  the  dispersion  of  these  women,  in  Henry  the 
Eighth's  reign,  the  same  ballad  makes  the  following 
remarks — 

There  came  such  A  wind  from  WinslMstsr» 
That  blew  these  women  over  the  rircr, 


286  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

In  wbcrrj  at  I  will  jon  tell, 
Some  at  St.  Katherin's  ttack  a-grcmiid. 
And  many  were  in  Holboorne  fomid. 

Some  at  St.  Gylet  I  trowe  ; 
Alio  in  Are  Mary  AII7,  and  at  Wettmtntter, 
And  some  in  Sboredjcbe  drew  thitber 

With  great  lamcntacyon. 

Adjoining  to  Winchester  House,  to  the  south,  stood 
Boehcster  House,  the  residence  of  the  hisbops  of  diat 
•ee.  In  Stow's  thne  it  was  deserted,  and  was  much 
out  of  repair.  It  was  afterwards  divided  into  small  and 
mean  dwellings,  and  has  left  no  remembrance  on  the 
spot,  the  yame  of  Rochater* Street  excepted. 

The  Clink  was  a  prison  for  such  as  should  "  brabble, 
fhiy,  or  break  the  peace  on  the  said  bank.''  The  bishop 
of  Winchester's  steward  tried  pleas  of  debt,  damages 
or  trespass  in  the  Clink  Liberty;  for  any  sum ;  and  this 
prison  was  long  complained  of  as  a  filthy  noisome 
dungeon. 

V  A  little  tiO  the  eastward  stands  the  parish  church  of 
St.  Mary  Overy,  or  St,  Saviour,  founded  long  before 
William  the  Conqueror,' by  a  maiden  named  ilfary; 
being  a  house  of  sisters,  to  whom  she  gave  the^  profits 
of  a  ferry  across  the  Thames  to  and  from  London* 
there  being  then  no  bridge.  This  house  was  after- 
wards converted  into  a  college  of  priests,  by  another 
lady  named  Swithen;  and  in  1106,  was  fprmed  into  a 
priory  of  canons  regular,  by  William  Pont  de  I'Arch, 
and  William  IVAuncy,  knights  an4  Normans,  when 
William  Giiibrd,  Bishop  of  Winchester,  built  the  body 
of  the  church.  King  Henry  the  First,  by  charter,  gave 
them  the  chumch  of  Si.  Margaret  on  the  Hill,  which  was 
Cpnfinned  by  King  Stephen.  Peter  de  la  Roch  founded 
a  large  chapel,  dedicated  to  St.  Mary  Magdalen,  in 
the  church  of  St.  Mary,  which  chapel  was  aflerwards 
uied  as  the  parish  church  for  the  neighbouring  in- 
habitants.   St.  Mary  Overy's  churcli  was  rebuilt  in 


/ 


1 1 


It.:.  1. 

ll!t     •» 

'» I.I    '• 


to     "-'iJlW     -a  Air,      !'.*     •''     .,       - 


WALKS  TBBOUGR   LONDOIT.  287 

I4OO9  to  which  John  Gower,  the  poet,  was  a  great 
benefactor.  In  1539^  the  priory  was  surrendered  to 
Henry  the  Eighth ;  after  which  the  inhabitants  pur- 
chased it^  and  the  chapel  of  St.  Mary  Magdalen  was 
tidded  on  the'  south  side  to  enlarge  it  for  the  accom* 
modation  of  a  numerous  parish.  The  church  is  a  noble 
fabric,  built  with  three  aisles,  running  from  east  to 
west,  and  a  cross  aisle,  after  the  manner  of  a  cathedral, 
it  is  in  the  Gothic  style;  the  roof  of  the  body  and  the 
chancel  is  supported  by  twenty-she  pillars,  and  that  of 
our  Lady,  or  New  Chapel,  (now-  o^ed  4br  the  Bishopis 
Court,)  with  six  smaller  {riilars;  and  that  of  the  former 
church  of  St.  Mary  MiBgdalen  <6il  the  «outh  side,  l^  sit 
pillars  like  the  I4st.  The  gaUerie»  m  the  walls  of  the 
choir  are  adorned  witli  pillars  and  arches,  similar  to 
Westminster  Abbey.  The tow^r,  containmg  twelve  fine- 
toned  belb,  is  built  upon  four  irety  strong  pillars ;  ove^ 
the  meeting  of  the  middle  aisle  with  th6  cross  aisle,  at 
the  four  aiigles  of  the  tower,  are  pimiacks  of  stone,  with 
crockets,  and  the  walls  of  the  church  -are  of  brick  and 
boulder.  Tt^is  building  underwent  a  substantial  repara- 
tion in  1703.  Its  length,  from  the  *ltar  to  the  iron  gate^ 
is  196  feet,  from  that  gslte  to  the  west^nd  of  the  ch.urch 
71,  and  from  the  altar  to  the  east  ea^  P^  the  New  Chapel 
72;  the  whole  length  269  feet,  and  the  whole  breadthM. 

The  monuments  in  this  church  are  numerous  and 
well  worth  inspection,  paiticularlythat  of  Gower,  the 
poet ;  but  the  inscriptions'  are  mostly  cloathed  in  the 
quaint  and  homely  phrase  of  former  times.  In  the 
south  side  of  the  churchyard  is  a  Frec.Grqtfimar  School, 
founded  at  the  charge  of  thej.parjsb  jn  1&63,  and  ad- 
joining tf>  this  a  Free  Sdioolii  founded  about  1681,  by 
Dorothy  Appkbee,  for  thirty  poor  boys." 

Globe  Alley  is  so  named  from  the  theatre  called  J%e 
OlobcM  that  flourished  In  1603,  and  had  a  licence  that 
year  under  the  Privy  Seal,  granted  by  James  the  First 
to  Shakespeaxe,' Fletcher,  Burbage,  Hemmings  and 


ins  WALKS  THROUGH   LONDOM. 

Condell,  to  act  plays,  not  only  at  their  usual  place, 
the  Globe,  but  in  any  other  part  of  the  kingdom, 
during  His  Majesty's  pleasure. 

Near  the  Globe  was  The  Bear  or  PariM  Garden  for 
baiting  of  bear^  horses,  &c.  To  this  place  our  cde- 
brated  Queen  Elizabeth  caused  the  French  ambassadon 
to  be  uUcen  for  their  diversion  in  these  bloody  spec« 
tacles! 

Bear-baiting  was  reckoned  among  the  usual  sights 
of  London  for  strangers.  It  is  mentioned  where  a  party 
went  "  abroad  with  the  hostesse  to  see  sights ;  Cheap- 
aide,  the  Exchange,  Westminster,  and  London  Bridge, 
trode  the  top  of  Powles  vnder  their  feet,  beene  at 
Beare-garden,  scene  a  play,  and  had  a  tauem  banquet," 
&o. 

.  However,  when  the  Puritans  ruled,  they  considered, 
that  from  the  statesmen  to  the  canaille,  must  to  the 
conventicle;  bear-baiting  ceased  under  the  general 
•prohibition ;  and  as  the  land  belonged  to  the  Crown, 
|t  was  sold  in  January  1647,  for  1783/.  l^.  The 
Puritans  left  no  other  amusement  for  general  par- 
ticipation than  the  diversions  of  the  field,  which,  pro- 
bably, they  had  not  a  suflScient  length  of  reign  to  devise 
the  means  of  stopping.  Edmund  Gayton  describes 
ibt  eflfect  of  their  mandate  in  the  following  lines : 

Hare  u  good  iport,  at  all  our  ^oUy  know. 
Hie  only  recrcatloo  left  oi  now ; 
For  plays  are  down,  unless  the  pnppet  play, 
Sir  William's  lost,  both  Oyle  and  Opera : 
The  noble  cock-fight  done,  the  harmless  bears. 
Are  more  than  ring'd  by  th'  note  or  by  the  ears: 
We  are  serioos  people  grown,  and  ftill  of  caresi 
As  melancholy  as  cats,  as  glnm  as  hares. 

The  diversion  of  bear-baiting  was  commonly  suc- 
ceeded by  some  novelty  befitting  such  an  exhibition. 
Alleyn  concluded  an  advertisement  with  telling  the 


.WALKB  THROUGH.  LOHDOir.  389 

pobTic,  <'  for  tfieir  beUer  content,  (they)  shall  havt 
pleasant  sport  with  the  horse  and  ape,  and  whipping 
of  the  blind  bear." 

On  the  west  side  of  the  Borough-Market  is  Deadi' 
man'M'Piacc,  containing  an  Hospital  or  College,  founded 
by  Thomas  Cure,  Esq.  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth. 
It  contains  sixteen  apartments,  for  as  many  poor  men 
and  women  of  St.  Saviour's  parish,  each  of  whom  has 
twenty  pence  per  week. 

Passing  to  the  Borough  High-Street  we  come  to  St, 
Margaret* $*HilL  Here  is  erected  a  handsome  Town« 
ban,  on  the  site  of  the.  former  church  of  that  name,  in 
which  the  Sessions  for  the  Borough  have  lonp:  been  held. 
.  On  the  opposite  side  of  High-Street,  is  the  Tabard, 
(corrupted  to  Talbot)  Inu,  originally  the  residence  of  the 
Abbots  of  Hyde,  near  Winchester,  when  they  attended 
the  parliament.  This  inn  was  also  the  place  of  ren- 
dezvous for  the  pilgrims  on  their  pious  journies  to 
Canterbury,  to  visit  the  Shrine  qf  Thomas  a  Beckei,  as 
described  by  Chaucer. 

The  highway  from  St.  Margaret's  Hili  to  Newington 
Causeway,  is  called  BlacknutH'Street,  on  the  east  side 
of  which  is  the  MarehaUea,  which  is  both  a  court  of 
law  and  a  prison. 

.  On  the  same  side  of  the  street  is  the  parish  church 
of  Sir.  George  the  Martyr ;  that  which  formerly  stood 
hare,  was  of  ancient  foundation,  and  pertained  to  the 
priory  of  Bermondsey.  The  present  edifice  has  a» 
ascent  by  a  flight  of  steps,  defended  by  plain  iron  rails. 
Tbe  door^casie  of  the  Ionic  order,  has  a  circular  pedi-i 
nent,  ornamented  with  the  heads  of  cherubim  in 
clouds ;  and  the  front,  to  the  height  of  the  roof,  on  eachf 
side  of  the  pediment,  is  adorned  with  a  balustrade  amt 
tases.  From  this  part  the  tower  rises  plain,  strength-' 
ened  with  rustic  quoins,,  with  vases  on  the  comers  of  it.' 
From  hence  a  series  of  Ionic  columns  support  the  base* 
of  Che  qihne,  which  has  ribs  oo  the  angles,  llie  top  is! 
u 


990  WALKS  THROVCH   LONOOIT. 

erovned  with  a  ba]l  and  a  vane.  .  Tlie  inside  of  this 
phurch  b  handsomely  decorated,  and  in  the  dd  churdi 
the  unhallowed  remains  of  the  crad  Bishop  Bonner 
were  deposited.  He  had  been  confined  many  years 
in. the  Marshalsea^  where  he  died  miseral>ly  and  un* 
lamented.  The  assemblage  of  ruinous  M  houses 
opposite  St.  George's  Church,  now .  called  The  MM^ 
stands  on  the  site  of  the  magnificent  mansion  built  by 
Charles  Brandon,  Duke  of  SufibUci  in  the  reign  of 
Henry  the  Eighth.  In  process  of  time,  a  mint  beings 
established  here  for  the  King's  use,  the. cottages  atid 
houses  that  rose  on  the  site  of'  this  great  house,  after 
its  demolition,  obtained  the  name  of  tftie  Mint^  K  9tw 
^trecfts  on  this  spot,  and  one  or  two  in  Spitalfields, 
are  the  whole  that  remain  unpaved  with  ilag-atones, 
&c.  within  the  limits  of  the  dty,  and  its  suburbs. 

The  Mint  continued  for  many  years. an  asylum  for 
fraudulent  debtors,  and  persons  who  took  refbge  here 
with  their  effects,  and  set  their  creditors  at  defiance; 
but  this,  with  similar  privileges,  were  entinely  sup* 
pressed  by  parliament  in  the  reign  of  George  the  First. 
The  place,  however,  still  refmains  one  of  the.  dirliesl 
and'  most  inconvenient  in  Southwarki  f  . 

In  Union-Street,  northward  of  the  Mintj,-  n'Umwm* 
Hidiy.^  very  batodsoaoe  stnifstuce, -used  asvaipoKce 
office.  Ad|)oiaing  to  this  is  the/ JSuEmy., Dispensary, 
fiir  the  distribution  of  medicijde .  among  the  poorer 
classes.  ,  *    jor- 

. .  At  the  soutfareai^t  end  of  iBIackman-^SkrcieW  in  Hone- 
monger- Lane,  is  the  New  Conn^  Goal,  amd  Hemke 
qf  Correctum,  for  the  County  of  Surrey.  These  pre* 
arises  are  extremely  spacioori ;  and  here  is  good  room 
'  fer  a  court-ban,  a  chapel,  offices,  ^c.  adapted  to  every 
desirable  purpose.  -  llie  sitnatiob  also  is  healthy  and 
open^  The  pUee  of  execution  is  a  temporary 'scafibld 
on, the  top  of  the  lodge,  on  the  north  side  of  it  The 
keeper's  house  is  ahandsomehuiklingon  the  west  side. 


..^ti 


-i^     L.i..      .. 


irallj^'^' 


JV  M'  ittr^^ 


himmm^^^-A^ 


^iLWA  r.Z^4.1(Wj(^^.',n^^xu/ 


I         ft 


i^      :..    . 


.'»:'•'  •  I,      It      IV.  ;"l      }]  .•  r      ;,    .    ; 

'  (..■•»'jMij"  .{.  r  r.H  '    «h  111      '       .-    i»  ^s 


WALKS  titiievdH  XONOOir.  ^1 

'  At  (he  sootb-'W^st  comer  of  Blsickman-Street«  in  tli^ 
itMid  to  the  Obdisk;SC.  Oeoi^'s Tie1<h,  is  situated  the 
Xili^#  Bench  Prison,  for  debtors,  ahd  every  one  sen- 
tenced by  tbe  Court  of  Kihg's  Bench;  but  those  wh'6 
«5an  putchase' the  liberties,  have  the' benefit  of  walking 
thiM^  Blackman-Street;  apart 'of  the  Borotfgh,  and 
in  St.  GeoFge^s  Fields.  This  building  is  surrounded 
by  a  very  high  wall.  Prisoners  in  any  other  gaol  may 
remove  hither  by  Habeas  Corpus.  This  prisbn  contains 
at  least  three  hundred  rooms :  the  number  of  peopte 
coDfined  here  is  greater ;'  and  decent '  accommodations 
are  much  more  expensive  than  in  the  Fleet. 


WALK  11. 


From  tke  Obelisk,  along  the  east  and  vfest  sides  of  Grsai 
Surrey  Road  to  Black  Friars  Bridge.  Return,  by  tlte 
Vfest  side,  to  th  New  Cut  to  Wes^tminster-Bridge ; 
thence  by  the  Asylum  and  Freemason* s  School,  temd" 
noting  at  the  Obelisk, 

St.'  GEoaGB's  Fields  anciently  occupied  a  broad 
portion  of  marsh  land,  till  the  embankment  of  the 
llmmes.  rendered  it  capable  of  improvement.  That  it 
was  inhabited  .by  the  Romans  is  evident  fVom  som^ 
remains  of  tesselated  paveinents,  coins,  and  boniesi 
though  it  might  have  been  used  as  an  astiva,  oi 
stnAmer  camp ;  ft>r,  even  till  the  seventeenth  century, 
Laimbeth  Marsh'  was  overflowed.  These  fields'  iio# 
ferm  diffident  roads,  and,  from  the  Obelisk,  open 
Communication^  with  all  the  south>east!  counti^,  and 
the  coasts  of  France  \n  times  of  peace. 

The    Obelisk    was   erected    in    1771,    during  the 


992  WALKS  THHOUGH   I.QNDOH-. 

urayoraltyy  and  in  faonoar  of  Brass  Crosby,  Esq.  irho 
had  been  confined  in  the  Tower  for  the  conscientious 
discharge  of  bis  magisterial  duty.  It  is  a  plain  but 
neat  column^  and  forms  a  centre  at  the  division  of 
the  great  south  road.  The  cause  of  its  erection  is 
inscribed  on  one  side,  and  the  other  three  sides  mark 
the  distances  from  Fleet-Street,  London-Bridge,  and 
Westminster. 

Before  we  qpit  this  part  of  South wark,  it  may  be 
proper  to  notice,  that  the  following  wood  engraving 
represents  part  of  the  ruins  of  Winchester* House,  be* 
fore  described. 


The  next  object  of  attention,  in  Great  Surrey  Rood; 
is  The  Royal  Circus,  first  comipenced  by  subscription, 
and  undertaken  in  favour  of  Mr.  Hughes,  a  ridingr 
master  of  considerable  abilities :  being  destroyed  by 
fire,  in  1805^  it  was  afterwards  rebuilt  in  a  tasteful  and 
ornamental  manner,  and  is  at  present  occupied  by  Mb. 
Thomas  Dibpin,  under  whose  tasteful  manageipeot 
\ht  whole  of  the  entertainments  are  conducted  with 
elegance  and  judgment.  They  consist  of  Burlettav 
Ballets,  Pantomimes,  &c.  , 


WALIU  tftKOVOH   LOIf06ir.  i9S 


*<• 

•  •*.  .ir 

11  ti  .\ 

•t      r 

vim 

.  '.'f 

j,» 

■  '.rti 

f 

•I    . 


*ieqiien€e  of  the  exertions  of  the  Rer.  Mr.  Rowland 


WALES  tltROVOH   LONHOW.  99^ 

'  To  the  northward,  on  the  same  side  of  the  street, 
M  the  Magdalen  Hospital,  for  the  reception  of  penitent 
prostitates,  first  projected,  in  1758,  by  Mr.  Robert 
Dingley^and  kept  in  Prescot-Street,  Goodman's  Ftelds.- 
Thw  hospital  consists  of  four  brick  buildings,  enclosing 
a  quadrangle,  with  a  bason  in  the  centre.  The  chapel 
19  an  octangular  edifice,  erected  at  one  of  the  back 
corners,  and  is  open  on  Sundays  to  genteel  persons,' 
who  are  expected  to  pay  a  trifle  in  silver  upon  en- 
trance, for  the  benefit  of  the  charily. 

T%e  Surrey  Insiiiution,  in  Great  Surrey  Road,  is  held 
in  the  building  at  first  appropriated  to  the  Leverian 
Mu9eum,  In  Common  with  other  establishments  of  this 
kind,  lectures  are  delivered ;  and  here  are  also  an  ex-r 
tensive  Library  and  Reading  rooms;  a  Chemical  Llkbo^ 
ratory,  and  Philosophical  Apparatus. 

Beyond  Stan^ford- Street  is  situated  the  parish  church 
of  Christ  Church,  The  original  edifice  was  erected 
in  1671,  and  was  founded  and  endowed  by  Mr.  John 
Marshall ;  but,  in  consequence  of  a  very  damp  founda- 
tion, becoming  ruinous,  it  was  again  rebuilt  of  brick, 
hi  1737.  The  steeple  consists  of  a  tower  and  cupola ; 
the  roof  is  supported  by  pillars  of  the  Tuscan  order, 
and  the  interior  is  very  neat.  On  a  window,  in  the 
middle  of  the  altar-piece,  are  painted  the  arms  of 
ISngland,  of  the  see  of  Winchester,  and  of  Mr.  Mar- 
shal, the  founder ;  under  which  are  the  words,  '*  John 
Marshall,  founder  and  endower  of  this  church.'^  This 
gentleman  also  settled  sixty  pounds  per  annum  upon 
the  minister  for  ever.  The  eight  bells  in  this  steeple 
were  given  by  eight  gentlemen  of  the  parish^ 

On  the  eastern  side  of  Great  Surrey  Road,  opposite 
the  New  Cut,  leading  to  Westminster- Bridge,  is  a  large 
octagon  building  for  the  use  of  Protestants  of  the 
Methodist  persuasion,  called  Surrey  ChapeL  The 
erection  bf  this  place  of  religious  worship  was  in  con- 
sequence of  the  exertions  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Rowland 


fMr  WALKS  THAOU«0  LQMOOIb 

{lill,  an  eccentric,  but  highly  reapectjfbie  charBClcr. 
Tliii  »tructure  is  capable  of  holding  nearly  five  tboosaod 
penons,  an4  is  divided  into  ground  s^ts  and  a  galleryy 
W  the  east  side  of  which, is  the  organ,  behind  the 
pulpit  and  readiniT' desks*  The  organ,  by  ^^ijiot,  it 
pwrMiCularly  noticed  for  it#  sweetness  of  ton^«  as  well 
as  for  its  extensive  powers,  which  are  so  great  thai  in 
one  of  the  bymns  descripti.ve  pf.  thunder  many  of  the 
audience  have  fainted.  ,It  contains  the  fpUowing  stops* 
Great  Organ:  two  qpen  iliapasons,  sUvp  diapasooj 
principal,  flute,  twelfth,  fifteenth,  sesqttifJti;^,  mixtqre, 
tcumpel,  clarion,  and  cometj  with  an  octave  of  pedal 
pipes.  Sw€il  Organ:  open  dvipaspn>  st(>p  di^«soif> 
pr^icipal  trumpet,  and  cornet. 
M  Whether  dissenting  places. of  ^wonhip  are  i^gnVf 
liable  to  pay  parish  .poors'  r^tefts.it  is  probable  will  b^ 
determaed  with  a -process  which  b^ftbeeii  long  earned 
on  against  .the  Rev.  Rqwland  Jjill,  .who  has  resisted 
the  payment  qn  the  grcfpnd  of  ^e*  To^ration  AM  ifi 
bebalf  of  the  disienlefS;  in  general,  to  yrhose  privilegos 
)ie  deems  it  inimicpLl. 

;  The  large  buildipg  at .  the .  fpot  of.  the ,  blidg!B» « a  few 
years  since  known  by  thie  name  of  the  Album  Milks 
is  now  converted  ipt:o  severa)  private  dwellings*. 

On  the  oppo^t^  side  of  the  way  is  th^  house  and 
offices  belonging  to  the  GpyetTiorand  Company  of  the 
BriHsh  Plate  Gl^^  Jfiqifnuftiqtqty,  >nc<Hl>oratrd  by  Act 
of  Parliamenti  in 'the  year  .177^  .  Tbci^  e^tpom^ 
concern  is  cs^rried  .on  here»  apd  at  tfaieir, works  at 
Ravenhead,  in  Lancashire*  Th^ir  stock  in  hiind.^ 
materials,.,  manufactured  and  unmanulacliired, .  an^ 
substantial  buildingi^  frojehold  and  leasehold^  in  London 
and  Lancashire,  taken  at.  a  yery.  low  /Sstiflafitfj.are  oeaufy 
«(|M4l  in  value  U}  4oMbk  the  4vn^  of  tUe  ivhole. funded 
capital,  which,  as  )ioii|ed  by  .the  legislature;. is  oqe 
Jiuiidred  thottsaqd  pounds. 

To  the  aouth  of:  Cbrist,  Church^  facing  Surrey,  Ch%- 


WALKS  TBAOUGH  LORDOV.  995 

pd,  is  a  road,  called  The  New  Qu  to  Westminstei' 
Bridge ;  and  some  avenues  to  the  right  of  this  lead 
to  Broad  Wall  and  Narratp  Wall,  so  called  from  being 
embaokmentfl  to  restrain  the  ravages  of  the  tide.  Sir 
WiUiam  Bugdale  frequeoUy.  makes  mention  of  the 
works  for  securing  this  part  of  the  river  in  old  times^ 
and  styles  them  embankmenis,  or  walk*  which  must 
have  been  origin^y  raised  by  the  Romans ;  {*  other;* 
wise*''  says  Mr.  Petinanti  "  they  never  could  have 
erected  the  buildings,  or  roads,  of  which  such  vestiges 
Imve  been  found  on  ll^  side  of  the  Thames.^' 
.  About  1789,  a  Manufactory  for  Patent  Shot  was 
erected  on  lk»  Narrow  Wall,  by  Messrs.  Watts.  ''  The 
principle  of  making. this  shot  is  to  let  it  fall. from  a 
great  height  into  the  water,  that  it  may  cool  and  harden 
ip  its  passage  through  the  air.''  Thei  tower  at  this 
9M)iMil'actory  is  about  one  hundred  atod  fortgr  feet  from 
the  ground  to  the  top  of  the  turret,  and  the  shot  ft^la 
abaut  one  hundred  and  tiweniy^lhree  feet,,  six  inches. 

The  site  of  Cigier'B  Garden  was  till  lately  covered 
by«  e;xtensive  Wine  and  Vinegar  Worics.  The  esta^ 
blishmeni;,  called  The  Refugefor  the. Restitute,  near 
Cuper's  Bridget^' has-been,  for  so^e  time  past,  moved 
into  Hackney  Rood,  and  the  Vinegar  Works  to  Soutb 
iMAbeth. 

,«  Ai«  a  short  distance  from-  this  'spot,^  we.  come. to 
Coade's  Maaufactary  qf  Ariifieiai  Siamti  hardened  by 
the  vitrifying  aid  of  fire.  .It  is  impossible, ,  wiUMn  our 
limits^  ^  enumerate  all  the  excellent  works  which 
have  been  eLCCHted  at  this  .place:  the. principal  are; 
the  celebrated  <arothic  screen.in  St.  George's  Chapel  at 
Wtindson,t. supporting  the  .organ  gallery;  also  the 
Gothic  front,  and  the  three  statues  of  King:&lwaard^ 
Madona  and  Child,  and  St  Qeorge  and  the  Dragon 
on  the  i«est  front  of  the  ckfeipel  ;•  die  arms,  &c.  of  the 
Trinity  House  ofi  Tower  Hitt;  the  group  of  statues  id 
front  of  the  Pelican  Office,  Lombard-Street^  -^c.  &c. 


-996  WitKS  TttKOUGB  tOND0l(r. 

The  gallery,  opened  on  the  Surrey  side  of  Westminster 
Bridge,  leading  down  to  the  manufactory,  contains 
specimens  of  various  works,  models  in  basso  relievo^ 
statues,  &c.  highly  gratifying  to  the  curious^. 

Opposite  Coade's  Gallery,  in  the  Westminster  Road, 
is  ne  Royal  Amphitheatre,  where  the  late  Mr.  Astley 
used  to  exhibit  feats  of  horsemanship.  This  theatre 
has  been  twice  burnt  down ;  but  the  present  structure 
in  elegant  decoration  surpasses  either  of  the  former, 
and  is  a  favourite  place  of  am«isement  during  the 
stitanmer  season,  under  the  conduct  of  Mr.  John  Astley« 
'  Hie  Westmituter  L^ing^in-Hospital  is  a  laudable  in* 
stitution,  not  formed  merely  for  the  honest  matron,  who 
can  depose  her  burthen  with  the  consciousness  of  lawful 
love,  but  also,  for  once  only,  for  those  unhappy  betnga 
who,  in  an  unguarded  moment,  were  seduced  to  be  a  prey 
to  villany,  deserted  by  their  friends,  and  exposed  to  the 
horrid  complication  of  guilt,  want,  and  wretchedness. 

•After  having  passed  the  Turnpike,  we  come  to  The 
Atyium,  an  excellent  charity,  owing  its  rise  to  the 
humane  and  judicious  plan  of  the  celebrated  Sir  John 
Fielding^  for  friendless  and  deserted  girls  under  twelve 
years  of  age.  Ladies,  subscribing  specified  sums,  are 
entitled  to  be  guardians,  and  to  vote  by  proxy. 

Proceeding  eastward,  on  the  north  side  of  the  road, 
is  The  Freemason's  Charity  School  for  Female  Children, 
where  they  are  admitted  from  five  to  ten  years. 

In  the  new  road  from  Westminster  Bridge  to  New- 
ington  Butts,  we  come  to  New  Bethlem  Hospital. — 
This  edifice  presents  a  front  truly  grand,  five  hundred 
and  eighty  feet  long,  composed  of  two  wings  and  a 
noble  portico,  formed  by  a  lofty  range  of  Ionic  pillars, 
supporting  a  handsome  pediment,  with  a  tympanum, 
containing,  in- its  centre,  the  Royal  arms  of  the  united 
kingdom.  The  centre  of  the  building  is  also  crowned 
by  a  dome,  and  has  a  number  of  appropriate  embel- 
lisfamcnti. 


'    •;     ,  J    .  •  • 


I   TFKNEV/YORK  J 
■   'RLICLli^RAR-f 


Walks  tHUoucH  iordon;  997 

'  .After  if  had  been  resolved  to  take  dowfi  OM  Beth- 
km,  and  build  a  superior  edifice  in  St  George's  Fields, 
a  most  disgraceful  discovery,  in  consequence  of  par* 
hamentary  investigation,  was  made  of  the  treat- 
ment of  the  insane  patients.  The  Committee  of  the 
House  of  Commons,  on  inspecting  this  building,  and 
entering  the  gallery  on  the  principal  floor,  observed 
'*  that  the  windows  were  so  high  as  to  prevent  the  patients 
from  looking  out;  with  the  unfitness  of  which  they  were 
struck,  as  intelligent  persons  had  stated,  that  the  greatest 
advantage  might  he  derived  from  the  patients  having 
opportunities  of  seeing  objects  that  might  amuse  them/' 
It  was  stated  by  Mr.  Upton,  the  Deputy  Architect,  that 
**  these  windows  were  at  first  so  constructed,  but  were 
afterwards  built  up  at  the  lower  part,  on  a  suggestion 
that  it  would  be  inconvenient  to  expose  the  patients  to 
the  view  of  the  passengers;  which  inconvenience  it  is 
conceived  might  be  very  easily  obviated."  The  windows 
in  the  upper  story  appear  to  be  properly  constructed. 

The  Report  continues,  "  In  the  sleeping  apartments 
the  windows  are  not  glazed,  which  deprives  the  patients 
generally  of  a  reasonable  comfort,  and  may,  in  many 
cases,  be  really  injurious.  But,  what  appears  to  be  still 
more  important,  there  are  no  flues  constructed  for  the 
purpose  of  conducting  warm  air  through  the  house,  ex- 
cept in  the  lower  galleries  on  the  basement  story,  which 
are  proposed  to  be  warmed  by  steam.  This  appears  to 
be  deserving  of  serious  consideration,  because  it  is  repre- 
sented that  the  patients  sufl^r  sensibly  from  cold ;  and 
Dr.  Munro,  the  Physician  to  the  Hospital,  stated,  tbat.it 
had  not  been  thought  adviseable  to  admmister  medi^inet 
in  the  winter,  on  account  of  the  cold  of  the  bouse. 
.  '*  In  the  Infirmary  for  Female  Patients  there  are  only 
three  small  windows,  at  a  great  height,  on  the  northern 
side  of  the  room ;  it  appeared,  therefore,  that  something 
shoald  be  done  for  ventilation,  which  might  easily  be 
accomplished. 


908  WALKS  THROUGH   LOITDOlf. 

**  The  conslruction  of  the  privies  appears  to  be  very 
objectionable ;  and  there  \%  only  one  in  each  of  the 
upper  galleries^  one  in. the  crioiinal  part,  and  twointbs 
basement  story :  nor  are  there  any  privies  or  urinab  in 
the  airing  grounds.  And  it  seems  doubtful*  wbethcr 
the  drain  passing  under  the  beds*  |s  on  such  a  construe* 
tion  as  will  ani»w.er  the  intended  purpose.  .  ? 

'*  There  is  no  room  set  apart  for  the  re^ption  of  the 
dead  bodies*  whi<;h  should  be  provided  for. 
*  *'  There  are  eight  acres  of  ground  occupied  for  the  Hoa« 
pital*  including  the  site  of  the  buildings*  the  airings 
grounds*,  and  one  acre  and  a  half  intended  for  a  kitchea^ 
garden ;  and  there  are  nearly  four  acres  more  adjoioing» 
wiiich  it  is  the  intention  of  the  Go^reroors  to  tura  to 
pr<^t*  the  Act  of  Parliament  Testraining  them  to  the 
use  of  eight.  The  Committee*  howciver*  think  ijt  may 
|ie  .expedient  to,  submit  to  the  consid/qration  of  Fte'lia^ 
injent^  the  propriety  of  enabling  the  Govemon  to  devote 
this  ground  to  the  general  purposes  of  the  Hospital* 
from,  a  conviction  of  the  bei^efits  the  patients  derive 
from  exercise,  and*  in  many  cases*  from  labour.  ,. 
.  ''  And  that  the  patients  may  not  be  entirely  depdved 
of  these  beneiiu  in  we^  weather,  it  appears  to  be  da* 
sirable  that  pent  houses  should  be  erected  against  Ike 
cross-walls  of  the  airing-grounds*  or  a  sort  of.oavering 
iathe  middle  thereof^  like  those  at  St.  Luke's  Hospital* 
In  the  criminal  part,  of  the  building*  the  ^Committee  find 
the  same  objection  to^  the  height  of  the  windows*  as 
befoiie  mentioned*  and  that  no  provision  wbatcjver  is 
made  for  warming  this  depaitment*  although  the  watm^ 
ing.  pipes,  from  the  basement  story,  are  contintted.<ia  the 
door  at  which  this  part  is  entered;  and  it  maybe  usot 
f«ll»  if  external  doors  of  iton  grating  should  be  provided 
on  the  basement  .story." 

\  The  CommitXee  further,  remarked*. that ia this > part 
oC  the  buiidipg  there  is  po  Infirmary.  In  oonsequenoe 
it  was  •*  Resolved*  That  the  Chairman  be  dimrtedto 


I.     -.-,'»:  .i  '  '.>  I   Tm-      ■»•••. 

.11.  ;  J.-  .'    ,    »{    »l>j-  LiM.-    :  /     ^.; 
.     'at'  ...  ?;  li  I   '  «•  '    '^i-iv 
•  '♦     I  ».•  <  ♦Ih  :.-'^     .'•,  .  : 
.'■  J  .      •  M  -      ^  •  1..  . 


'     *"'i'*'^ 


WALKS  THROUGH   LONDON*  999 

move  the  House,  That  leave  be  given  to  bring  in  aBill,  to 
amend  and  enforce  the  Provibions  of  the  Act  of  the  14th 
George  the  Thirds  c.  49,  intituled,  '*  An  Act  for  regu- 
lating Mad-houses.^' 

As  a  pireservatibn  against  fire,  here  are  four  large 
reservoirs  on  the  top  of  this  building,  supplied  by  an 
engine,  and  a  pump  for  each  distin^st  gallery. 

Hence  to  the  Obelisk,  and  to  the  Kent  road,  a  tittle 
beyond  the  Bricklayer's  .Arms,  concludes  this  walk. 
Here  we  notice  The  Asylum  for  the  Deqf  and  Dumb, 
a  fatindsome  brick  building,  very  accurately  repre- 
sented in  the  annexed  engraving.  Near  this  spot  is 
also  the  Institution  for  the  Cure  of  Cancers,  &c. 

Thus  having  commenced  our  perambulalion  of  the 
metropolis  at  the  emporium  of  commerce,  we  have 
closed  this  part  of  our  undertaking  among  the  mansions 
of  charity. 


SOO  WALKS  THBOVGB  LONPOK. 


^ti^fmni^  0f  WLnnnm* 


WALK  I. 

From  the  Surrey  side  qf  Westminster-Bridge  to  Stangatg* 
Street  and  Lambeth,  Vauxhall,  VauxhaU-Bridge, 
South  Lambeth,  Kennington,  Stockwell,  Walcot- Place, 
Nexvington  Butts,  Walworth,  Camberwell,  Dulwich, 
New  Cross,  Rotherhithe,  Sydenham,  Deptford,  Green' 
wich,  Woolwich,  Shooter's  Hill,  Erith,  The  Crays, 
Dartford,  Eltham,  and  Greenhithe, 

LAMBETH  has  been,  for  many  ages,  the  residence 
of  the  Archbishops  of  Canterbury,  as  it  had  been  long 
before  that  of  the  Bishops  of  Rochester.  Tlie  palace 
was  originally  built  in  1189,  by  Baldwin,  metropolitan 
in  the  time  of  Richard  the  First ;  in  1993,  it  was,  in  a 
great  measure,  if  not  wholly,  re-built  by  Bgniface. 
That  part  which  is  called  the  Lollard's  Tower,  wu 
built  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the  Fifth,  by  Henry 
Chicheley,  Archbishop  of  Canterbury.  He  was  a  perse* 
cutor  of  the  followers  of  WicklifiP;  and  the  tower  de- 
rived its  name  from  a  room  which  it  contained^  appro* 
priated  to  the  imprisonment  of  the  followers  of  that 
reformer,  who  were  called  Lollards.  This  is  a  small 
room^  twelve  feet  by  nine,  planked  with  elm  ;  in  which 
still  remain  eight  rings  and  staples,  to  which  these  un- 
fortunate people  were  chained.  During  the  short  time 
that  Cardinal  Pole  was  Archbishop  of  Canterbury,  he 
built  the  fine  gate  of  the  palace,  with  a  gallery  and 
several  rooms  adtjoining  at  the  east  end.    The  library 


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WALKS  THBOUGH  |.ONI>ONtf  801. 

I  begun  by  Archbishop  Bancroft^  in  the  reign  of  Janes 
the  First,  and  carried  on  by  Dr.  Juxon^  the  ai^chbishop  at 
the  restoratioD.  Queen  Elizabeth,  the  Earl  of  Leicesr 
Ur,  Archbishop  Laud,  and  many  other»,  contributed  to 
it,  and  at  present  it  contains  upwards  of  ^,000  printed 
books,  and  numbers  of  manuscripts;  some  of  which  are 
exceedingly  valuable  and  curious.  In  the  great  dining- 
room  are  portraits  of  all  the  archbishops,  from  Laud  to- 
the  present  time,  which  form  an  interesting  series  of 
the  revolutions,  in  the  clerical  dress.  From  the  cir* 
cumstance  of  the  present  edifice  having  been  built  at 
different  periods,  it  possesses  very  little  uniformity  ;^- 
but  the  principal  parts  are  well-proportioned  and  well* 
enlightened. 

The  Nov  Buildings  consist  of  a  house  on  the  right 
hand  of  the  first  court,  built  by  Archbishop  Sancrofi 
and  Tillotson ;  the  Great  Hall,  ninety-three  feet  by 
thirty-eight,  with  a  Gothic' roof,  constructed  of  timber; 
the  Guard  ChanUfcr,  fifly«six  feet  by  twenty-seven  and 
a  half,  is  supposed  to  have  been  built  before  the  year 
1434 :  it  is  roofed  like  the  hall.  The  gardens  and  park 
contain  thirteen  acres:  the  late  Archbishop  Moore, 
besides  building  an  extensive  brick  wall,  made  a  new 
passage  for  carriages  through  the  park,  to  the  house.     * 

Carlisle  House,  near  this  palace,  was  the  residence 
of  the  Bishops  of  Rochester  till  the  sixteenth  century ; 
having  been  a  pottery,  a  tavern,  a  dancing-house,  &c. 
it  has  been  for  some  years  past  an  academy  for  young, 
gentlemen. 

Norfolk  Row  stands  on  the  site  of  a  former  residency 
of  the  Dukes  of  Norfolk. — ^A  palace,  belonging  to  tke. 
Bishops  of  Hereford,  in  Fore-Street,  was  afterwards: 
converted  into  a  pottery. 

Lambeth  Wells,  in  Lambeth,  was  a  place  of  entertain-*! 
mcnt,  opened  on  account  of  its  mineral  water;  but  the: 
bouse  liecoming.a  public  nuisance  was  shut  up>  and 
ultimately  M  as  a  Methodist  meeting-house. . 


iOi  Walks  ^sm>u6b  lomMn^. 

A  coiiUmatiofi  df  Lambeth  is  cdled  VauxkaU  WOk, 
toaditig  to  Fauke9  Hall,  corruptly  called  VauxhaH.^^ 
VaMhall,  or  Spring  Gardens,  appear  to  have  been  a 
plkce  of  common  reiort,  as  eaWy  ar  1712,  as  the  Spec- 
tator, in  No.  883,  has  introduced  his  favourite  charac^ 
ter,  Sir  Roger  De  Coverley,  accompanying  him  id  m 
voyage  from  Temple  Stairs  to  this  place.  These  exten* 
site  gardens  contain  a  variety  of  walks,  iHuminated  with 
coloured  lamps,  and  terminatied  by  beautiful  trans** 
parent  paintings.  Opposite  the  west  door  is  a  magni* 
ieent  Gothic  orchestra,  and  on  the  lefl,  an  elegant 
totunda,  in  which  the  band  perform,  in  rainy  or  cold 
weather.  At  ten  o'clock,  a  bell  announces  the  opening 
of  a  cascade,  with  the  representation  of  a  water-mill,  m 
ihail  coach,  ^c.  Fireworks  of  a  most  brilliant  descrip- 
taori  are  alio  amoog^  the  attractions  of  this  charming 
plilce. 

In  numerous  recesses  or  pavillions,  parties  are  accom<* 
ihodated  with  suppers  and  other  relVeshments,  charged 
aocordihg  to  a  bill  of  fare. 

:r  The  respective  boxes  and  aparimetits  are  adorned  with 
a  vast  number  of  paintings,  many  of  which  are  executed 
in  the  beist  style  of  their  respective  theaftres.  The  laboun 
of  Hogarth  and  Hayman  are  the  most  conspicuous.  • 
:  On  a  pedestal,  under  the  arch  of  a  grand  portieo,^of 
the  Doric  order,  is  a  fine  itiarUe  statue  of  Handel,  in 
tbecbaracter  of  Orpheus  playing  on  his  lyr^;  d<taie  hf 
the  e^ebrabed  M .  Roubiliac. 

The  number  of  persons  who  are  emplojft^  in  th^ 
gardens,  during  the  season,  is  said  to  amount  to  four 
taMdr^d;  ninety-six  of  whom  are  musicians  and  singers; 
the  test  are  waifters  and  servants  of  various  kinds. 

The  celebrated  Lowe  and  Beard  were  among  the 
fint'  singers  engaged  at  Vauxhall'.'  At  present  Ihe 
i^ular  vocal  performers  are:  Mrs.  Franklin,  Mr. 
]%num,  Mr.  Gibbons,  Mr.  Gray,  Mr.  Denman,  Mrs. 
Bland,  &c. 


LiU 


ft;   %.H  f <i'i?!r^iii:i 


J 


A  .         .       • 


»a   • 


''      '.      ^,. 


>-P  '.•• 


WALKl  TtSOUOK  LOHDOIf.  Ml 

VpwntdKof  ISfiOO  lBaipsluiTebeeii.U)ndtoiUuniii- 
t  Uiegardens  at  one  time,  and  the  efiect  of  th^  ilhimiK 
i  ii  perfectly  beautiful  In  a  moonligiit  nigfat  The 
iMiAd  of  the  Doke  of  York's  regiment  of  guards,  drtmoi 
m  ftill  uniform,  adds  to  the  attraction  of  these  enchant*' 
ing  gardens,  fojr  military  harmony.  Sixteen  thousand 
persons  are  said  to  have  been  assembled  here  at  one  time. 
Those  v^o  hiLvetiever  visited  thk! '«  fairy  land  of  fanc^y/' 
can  form  an  idea  of  its  fascinating  appearance  only  b^ 
leoiiceifnng  th^fmsehes  to  be  in  some  of  those  enchanted 
IMkces'  and  gardens,  so  admirably  described  in  the 
Arabian  Nights'  Entertainments.  * 

•  'Vaoxhall  Gardens  open  about  the  middle  of  May,  and 
dose' on  the  30th  of  August.  The  doors  are  opened  at 
baJf-pastsix,  and  the  concert  begins  at  eight  o'clock.  ' 
-' '  Vakxhail-Bridgt,  which  crosses  the  Thames,  close  to 
Ctemberiand  Garden^,  And  was  opened  in  July  1816, 
consists  of  tiine  arches,  of  equal  span,  formed  of  CaA 
thMi,  and  'raited  upon  stone  piers.  The  span  of  each 
treh  U'about  eighty  feet,  and  the  width  of  each  piet 
about  fourteen.  The  elevation  of  the  centre  arch,  abot^ 
high  wa«er  mirk,  is  about  thirty  feet,  and  that  of  tfa^ 
Mier  arches  is  not  materially  less:  The  length  of  ihi 
hridge  is  .about  eight  hundred  feet,  its  width,  exclusive 
of  foot-ways>  afibrds  sufficient  room  for  four  carriages 
to  |Mus  abreast.— The  sides  are  guarded  by  light  iroft 
pallisadoes^  through  which  even  the  foot  passenger  hah 
an  uninterrupted  viev^  of  all  the  beautifhl  scenery 
Mich  abounds  on  the  batiksi  as  #eH  as  of  th^  inte^ 
resting  objects  which  hourly  present  themselves  op6ll 
the  bosom  of  the  Thames. 

*  Theroada  are  so  judioioutfly  constructed,  thttt  'th<i 
asoent  to  the  bridge  >is  scarcely  perceptible,  althoUg!^ 
iriginaUy  devated  so  much  above  the  level  of  the 
gvoand  onieaoh  side  of  the  river.  The  approach  to  Ulis 
bridge  on  the  Surrey  side  is  from  the  east  of  the  Vaux- 


SM  WALKS  TnOUCS  L0ND09I. 

•hall  turnpike,  frcmi  which  it  is  not  above  one  hundred 
yards  distant.  The  avenue  on  the  Middlesex  side  is 
formed  by  a  new  road  of  sixty  feet  wide,  indudtng 
foot-ways.  This  road  b  about  a  mile  in  length,  in  n 
direct  line  to  Eaton-Street,  Pimlico,  through  which, 
and  Grosvenor- Place,  a  fine  opening  continues  to  Hyde* 
Park  Corner.  This  bridge  presents  some  resemblance 
of  Buonaparte's  celebrated  bridge  of  Austerlitz,  but  is 
far  its  superior  in  extent  and  elegance. 
.  South  Lambeth,  between  Stockwell  and  Vauxhall,  was 
chosen  by  Sir  Noel  Caron,  Datch  ambassador  to  this 
Court  thirty-three  years,  for  a  palace,  which  he  built 
with  two  wings ;  its  present  remains  are  an  Academy. 
.  Kamington,  one  of  the  eight  precincts  of  Lambeth^ 
once  contained  a  royal  palace,  in  which  Henry  the 
.Third  assembled  a  parliament,  and  where  Edward  the 
Third  kept  his  Christmas  in  1342.  Henry  the  Fifth 
also  resided  here.  This  palace  is  supposed  to  have  been 
pulled  down,  and  a  manor-house  erected  in  its  room, 
which  was  occupied  by  Charley  the  First,  when  Prince 
of  Wales.  In  a  survey  taken  in  1656,  this  manor-houM 
i^  said  to  be  *'  a  small  low  timber  building,  situate  upon 
part  of  the  foundation  of  the  ancient  mansion-house  of 
the  Black  Prince,  &c.,  and  long  since  ruined,  nothing 
thereof  remaining  but  the  stable,  one  hundred  and 
figbty  feet  long,  and  now  used  as  a  barn.''  This  Long 
Aim,  as  it  was  afterwards  called,  in  1709,  was  an 
asylum  for  the  distressed  Palatine  protestants.  Thii 
toad,  in  all.  ancient  writings,  is  denominated,  **  The 
Princes  lload." 

Stockwell,  between-Kennington  and  Clapham,  has  a 
neat  chapel  of  ease,  and  was  the  scene  of  a  singular 
deception,  at  the  house  of  Mrs.  Golding,  in  the  yeac 
1772,  when,  it  is  said,  all  the  furniture  literally  daikced 
about  the  house,  and  was  sometimes  broken  wiibottt  any: 
visible  cause.     Mr.  Lysons  obsierves^.lhat  aa^  auctioitf 


WALKS  THBOUGB  LONDON.  905 

being  held  at  this  house,  in  1799,  after  the  death  of 
Mrs.  GoMling  and  her  daughter,  "  the  dancing  furni- 
ture sold  at  a  very  extravagant  price." 

We  return,  by  the  Vanxhall  Road,  to  Walcot- Place. 
— On  the  site  of  what  was  called  the  Dog  and  Duck,  is 
the  School  for  the  Indigent  Blind,  which  provides  for 
tweoty-one  boys  and  fourteen  girls.  They  manufiic- 
ture  baskets,  clothes-lines,  and  sash-cord,  which  may  be 
purchased  at  the  school,  where  strangers  are  gratui- 
tously permitted  to  inspect  the  progress  of  the  pupils, 
the  nature  of  the  institution,  &c. 

As  some  of  the  inmates  here  are  permitted  to  walk 
in  the  large  area  within  the  iron  gate,  they  frequently 
excite  the  attention  and  surprise  of  passengers. 

Lower  down  is  the  building  appropriated  to  the  use 
of  The  Philanthropic  Society,  whose  object  is  to  receive 
the  children  of  criminals  and  who  by  their  birth,  or  in 
their  infancy,  have  been  exposed  to  vice  and  misery. 
Here  are  several  hundreds  of  boys  and  girls,  and 
many  of  them  are  employed  in  various  trades  and 
occupations. 

At  the  bottom  of  Prospect-Piace  are  the  FiWimon- 
gers*  Almshouses.  The  building  which  is  called  St. 
Peter's  Hospital,  was  erected  by  virtue  of  letters  patent, 
granted  by  James  the  First,  in  1619,  to  the  Fish- 
mongers' Company,  for  the  reception  of  several  of  their 
poor  members. 

Nemngton  Butts  extends  from  the  end  of  South- 
wark  to  Kenningtoo  Common.  The  only  manor  in 
this  parish  is  Walworth,  called  Waleorde  in  Domes- 
day Book,  and  then  had  a  church.  The  church  of  St. 
Mary,  Newington,  being  in  a  ruinous  state,  was  rebuilt  in 
1793,  on  the  same  inconvenient  spot,  by  thesitleof  agreat 
rood.  In  this  church-yard  is  a  remarkable  tomb,  raised 
over  the  body  of  William  Allen,  wantonly  singled  out, 
and  killed,  in  1768,  by  one  of  the  soldiers,  when  the 
late  John  Wilkes,  Esq.  was  in  the  King's  Bench  Prison. 

X 


306  WAl.K$   THI^PV^II.  l^OMDON. 

The  parsonage  b  an  ancient  building,  or  great  ciirioiity, 
surrounded  by  a  moat,  over  which  there  were  four  nnall 
bridges.  The  house  is  now  completely  ditguued  by 
its  improvements  apd  alterations* 

Passing  through  Walworth,  by  a  road  lined  with 
elegant  mansions,  we  arrive  at  Cambertoell,  two  miks 
from  London.  The  Church  dedicated  to  St.  Gilen,  waa 
built  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the  Eighth*  Some  of  the 
jpnonuments  are  curious,  particularly,  thoqe  of  the  Mw- 
champs,  who  camf;  to  England  with  William  the 
Conqueror,  and  lived  at  Pecl^ham. 

€rrov€  Hill,  once  the  residepce  of  the  late  Dr. 
Lettsom,  is  no  more  what  it  was«  previous  to  his  re- 
moval from  it  and  subsequent  demise : 

Where  Grove  Hill  ihows  thy  viUa  fair. 

Bat  lately  there,  my  Friend,  with  thee, 

'Twas  mine  the  traoqail  hour  to  share, 

Tba  tocial  hour  of  convene  firee ) 

To  mark  the  arraogesieiit  of  thy  grouid. 

And  all  the  pleasing  prospect  roond. 

Where,  while  we  gas'd,  new  beauties  still  were  found. 

Such  are  the  soft  enchanting  scenes  displayed. 

In  all  the  blended  charms  of  light  and  shade. 

At  Camberweirs  fair  GroTe  and  verdant  brow ; 

Tke  iovelieH  SHrrey^s  swMw^f  kUU  cms  §hmw. 

The  des<;ent  from  the  hovse  leads,  to  DuhokLi^ 
Here,  in  1614,  Mr.  Edward  Alleyn  erected  a  com* 
modious  building,  for  an  Hospital  from  a  design 
l^y  Inigo ,  Jones,  and  this  he  nawed  The  Colkgt  rf 
God' 8^  Gift;  to  consist  of  a  master,  warden^  and  four 
feUows,  of  which  three  are  Ecclesiastics*  and  the  fourth 
an  organist^  six  poor  men. and  a4  many  poor  women, 
all  of  whom  are  enjoined  celibacyj  and  twelve  boys> 
i^ho  are  educated  by  two  of  the  fellows  of  the.  college. 
Oyer  the  entrance  into  this  edifice  is  a  long  Latin 
inscription,  written  by  Mr^  James  Huine«  descriptive 
of  Mr.  Alieyn's  quieJAiic^tion*  and  benevolenoe.    The 


WALKS  tHKOITGH  LONDOlf.  S07 

college  contains  a  library  of  iMwks,  part  of  them  the 
gift  of  benefactors.  There  is  likewise  a  gallery  of 
pictvires/  some  of  them  left  by  the  founder,  and  others 
are  benefactions ;  but  none  are  equal  to  thosie  by  th^ 
late  Sir  FVaneis  Bourgeois,  R.  A.  who  was  himself  a 
painter.  These  amount  to  three* hundred  and  forty « 
three,  and  occupy  five  rooms.  Most  of  them  are  by 
the  first  masters,  Italian,  French,  and  Flemish,  Sir 
Joshua  Reynolds,  &c. — Tide  fine  walk  op{iosite  the 
CM  Green  Man,  aflbr^s,  from  its  summit,  a  fine  pro's* 
pect ;  but  this  is  much  exceeded  by  that  from  a  Mil 
|)ebind  the  house,  under  a  tree,  called,  "  The  Oak  of 
Hononr;'*'fHDm  a  tradition  that  Queen  Elizabeth  used 
often  to  repose  under  it. 

The  late  Lord  Th^rlow*s  seat,  called  Knighes  Hill, 
lies  in  the  parish  t>f  Lambeth,  between  Dulwich  and 
Norwood,  and  was  the  fint  that  was  completely  finished 
with  the  cone  flooring:  Tlie  upper  stories  exhibit 
delightful  views  over  Kent,  Surrey,  and  the  metropolis; 
and  the  Thames,  in  various  parts,  is  discernible  from 
Chelsea  to  Gravesend.  The  annual  fairs  kept  at 
Camberwell  and  Peckham  are  much  resorted  to  from 
London. 

In  the  Rent  Road,  near  New  Cross,  is  the  handsome 
villa  lately  belonging  to  John  Holls,  Esq.  Here  the 
Grand  Surrey  Canal  presents  the  singular  spectacle  of 
seven  loclcs,  within  the  sh6rt  distance  of  a  quarter  of 
a  mil^. 

Haifa  mile  to  the  left,  on  JP?o«S  Garlick  Hill,  is  the 
secohd  station  of  the  Deal  Telegraph:  the  first  is  in 
West-Square,  St'.  George's  Fields ;  hence  a  single  signal 
has  been  communicated,  in  a  *clear  day,  from  the 
Admiralty  to  Deal  in  two  minutes  and  a  half. 

Rdtherkithe,  cMed  RederifR  is  on  the  bank. of*  the 
river,  and  well  inhabited  by  masters  of  ships,  sea- 
faring  people,  and  tradesmen  depeniding  upon  navlga* 


308  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

iion.  The  church-yard  contains  the  monument  of 
Prince  Let  Boo,  a  native  of  the  Pelew  Xftlmnds  erected 
bj  the  £ast  India  Company,  and  inscribed  as  a  testi- 
mony of  the  humane  treatment  aiibrded  by  his  father 
to  the  crew  of  the  Antelope,  wrecked  off  his  island 
in  August,  1783.    '* 

Near  the  extremity  of  Rotherhithe  parish  are  the 
docks  for  the  Greenland  ships* 

After  passing  through  the  gi^e  at  New  Cross,  the 
road  on  the  right  leads  to  Lewisham,  Bromley,  Seven* 
oaks^  and  Tunbridge,  in  Kent;  and  to  Rye  and  Hast* 
ings,  in  Sussex. 

Sydenham^  a  hamlet  of  Lewidiam,  is  noted  for  its 
pleasant  situation,  and  the  extensive  views  from  its 
hilL  Here  is  an  excellent  Grammar-Scbool,  and 
alms-houses,  founded  by  the  Rev.  l^r.  Abraham  Colfe. 

Returning  to  the  great  Rent  road,  we  arrive  at 
Deptfbrd,  the  principal  seat  of  Gilbert  de  Maminot, 
a  Norman  baron,  in  the  time  of  William  the  First : 
some  of  his  family  erected  a  castle  here;  some  remains 
of  which,  according  to  Mr.  Hasted,  were  visible  near 
Sayes  Court,  on  the  bank  of  the  Thames,  near  the 
Mast  Dock.  Deptford  contains  two  hospitals,  belong* 
ing  to  the  Trinity-House :  the  old  one  was  built  in 
the  reign  of  Henry  the  Eighth,  and  rebuilt  in  1788» 
when  the  number  of  apartments  were  increased :  this 
structure  joins  the  cburch-yard  of  St.  Nicholas.  The 
•new  hospital  is  in  Church-Street,  has  fifty-six  apart* 
ments,  and  forms  a  spacious  quadrangle,  with  the 
statue  of  Captain  Maples  in  the  centre :  a  plain  build- 
ing, on  the  east  side,  serves  as  Chapel  and  Hall,  to 
which  the  brethren  of  the  Trinity-House  resort^  an- 
nually, on  Trinity  Monday,  in  procession,  and  after- 
wards go  to  St.  Nicholas'  Church.  This  church 
abounds  with  monuments. 

Si,  Paul's,  Deptford,  is  a  very  beautiful  stone  edi- 


r: 


..  f.  .'. 


/■. . 


..  I 


J.  .1 


WALKS  THXOUGH   LONDON*  S09 

fice,  highly  omftmenced ;  but  the  Dock  Yard  and  the 
VictuaUing  Qficc  are  immense  estaUishmenU^  and  of 
course  worth  inspection. 

Oreenwich  is  the  next  object  of  curiosity,  and  is 
first  mentioned  in  ancient  English  history  for  being 
the  head-quarters  of  the  Danes,  and  the  harbour  of 
their  fleet,  when  they  ravaged  the  country.  Green- 
wich, at  a  very  early  period,  became  a  favourite  resi* 
dence  of  the  sovereigns  of  England.  Edward  tiie 
Fourth  took  great  delight  in  enlarging  and  finishing 
the  palace,  which,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the  Seventh, 
was  beautified  with  a  brick  front  towards  the  river. 
Henry  the  Eighth  exceeded  his  predecessors  in  deco- 
rating this  palace,  which  caused  Leland,  the  anti- 
quary, to  exclaim. 

How  blight  this  lofty  wat  appcait, 

Lik«  Jove's  great  palace,  pav'd  with  itan; 

What  roofs,  what  windowiy  charm  the  eye  \ 

What  torretSy  rWalt  of  the  sky  ! 

What  eonstant  ■priogt,  what  smiling  meads  ; 

Here  Flora's  self  io  gtate  resides. 

And  all  aronnd  hSr  doth  dbpense 

Her  gifts,  and  pleasing  iDflneDcc. 

Greenwich  was  the  birth-place  of  Queen  Mary  the 
First,  and  Queen  Elizabeth;  and  here  Edward  the 
Sixth  died.  The.  palace,  however,  being  afterwards 
suffered  to  run  to  ruin,  was  pulled  down  by  Charles 
the  Second,  who  began  a  magnificent  edifice,  and  only 
lived  to  see  the  first  wing  finished.  Charles  also 
enlarged  the  park,  and  erected  the  Royal  Observatory 
on  the  top  of  the  hill  for  the  use  of  the  celebrated- 
Plamstcad,  whose  name  it  retains.  Mary,  the  queen 
of  William,  the  Third,  was  the  first  who  proposed 
converting  this  building  of  Charles  the  Second  into  an 
hospital,  and  the  placing  of  disabled  English  seamen 
and  widows  here,  with  their  children.   The  hospital  first 


b«g9n  to  receive  ditaM^  seaipeo,  oq  the  present  plgp, 
jb  1737.  Since  :thi»  ngbile  $trQc4ure  ha&  been  com- 
pleted, the  front  to  the  Thames  consists  of  two  ranges 
of  stone^  with  the  Sanger's  hou^e  at  the  back  p^.t»  in 
the  centre ;  the  wings  between  which,  in  a  large  area, 
%ce  .terminated  by  very  superb  domes,  one  b«indred 
and  twenty  feet  high.  In  each  front  to  the  Thames 
their  pedimaats  are  sMpported  by  two  raogea  of 
coupled  Corinthian  columns,  and  of  the  same  ordec 
are  the  pilasters  along  the  building.  The  frimt  is 
nisticatedi  and  there. are  two  series  of  windows.  The 
domes  are  sup^iorted  on  coupled  columns,  as  are  the 
porticos  below ;  and  under  one  of  these  is  the  Chapdt 
a  beautiful,  structure,  which>  with  its  ornainents, 
cost  84,000/. 

A  college,  or  alms-houses,  at  the  east  end  of  the 
town,  for  the  maintenance  of  twenty  decayed  old 
house-keepers,  is  called  Tke  Duke  qfNotfblk's  College. 

The  new  church  6f  St.  Alphage,  in  the  High-Street, 
is  a  handsome  stone  fabric. 

Proceeding  by  Blackbeatb,  on  the  ^rth  side  of  the 
great  road,  near  the  five  mile  stpue^  at  the  west  end  of 
Chocolate- Row,  is  a  delightful  laW9,  named  The  Point, 
which  is  one  of  the  richest  prospects  that  the  imagi- 
nation of  the  poet  or  painter  can  conceive. 

At  the  north-east  comer  of  the  heath,  almost  joining 
Maize  Hili,  are  Vofdfrugh  Fields,  so  called  from  Snr 
John  Vanbrugh's  whimsical  hoase,  resembling  a  for* 
tification,  with  towers  and  embatttements;,  and  a  gate* 
way  of  a  like  construction. 

Through  Charlton  and  Hanging  Woo4,  we  proc^d 
to  Woolwich,  so  celebrated  for  its  dock-yard,  the 
warr^,  barracks,  &c. 

Shoota:*s  Hill  joins  Woolwich  Common,  and  from 
the  summit  of  this  is  a  fine  view  of  London,  Essex, 
Surrey,  and  even  a  part  of  Sussex.    Upon  ils  brow  is 


WALO   TBII01I61I   L0im6!l.  811 

an  elegant  tower,  surroanded  by  a  tMi  plantition 
on  a  sloping  lawn  and  gravelled  walks. 

TbU  Iw-iccD  nooamcDta]  to«*r 
Recordt  tfa'  ncfaievemeiiti  of  tb«  Imrc} 

And  Aogria's  tubjopited  pon'r. 
Who  plundered  on  the  eastern  wave. 

An  itisciiptlon  oter  the  entrance  e^cprifsses  that  this 
building  was  ereded  by  (be  representative  of  the  late 
Sir  William  James  Ban,  to  rel^ord  the  conqiiest  6f  (he 
Cartle  of  Sevemdroog,  on  tlie  coast  of  Malabar,  -  in 
April  1755. 

The  parish  cf'Eriih  is  graced  wHb  several  Seats ;  but 
one  of  the  most  conspictious  is  BeMdera  House,  be^ 
tonging  to  Lord  Eardley,  cofnmanding  the  river 
lliames  add  the  opposite  shored  of  Esmx.  Erith  Chnrcfa 
fs  arident,  and  (insists  of  fbi^ee  aisles  and  three 
chUtfieels. 

T6  tfa^  south  of  Northumberland  Heath,  the  tract 
of  land  called  J%e  Crays  is  supposed  to  be  the  most 
bMitttifiil  spot  In  the  county  of  Kent. 

TWo  miles  from  Crayford  is  Darifordy  which  tak^ 
ita  mnne  f^dm  the  Diarau.  Here  are  several  vestiges 
4f  an  ab^^,  which,  with  its  environs,  eoveretf  a  hrge 
eltent  of  land,  and  a  burta!-»grouiiid  considerably 
bfgher  than  the  tops  of  th^  houses. 

Having  passed  iht  Crays,  we  return  to  Ekham,  on 
the  high  road  to  Maidstone.  Here  st6od  a  palace, 
ftrseve#al  centuries  a  fbvouHte  i'eti'eatt  of  the  Ertglisb 
sovereigns.  This  waa  most  probably  built  before  1270^ 
wfam.Retiry  tlie  Tbifd  kept  his  grcfat  Chrbtmas  heri^. 
It  was  also  thfe  birth-place  of  John  of  Eltham,  son  of 
Edward  the  Seeond.  £dward  the  Fourth  repaired  it 
at  a  great  etf>en8e;  and,  in  the  year  1403,  kept  his 
Christmas  here;  when  two  thousatid  persons  i^e 
daily  fed  at  his  charge :  his  daughter,  Bridget,  after- 
Wards  a  nun  at  Dartford,  was  born  here. 


sis  WALKS    THBOUGU.LOMDOIf. 

lo  iht  Beaulie*  of  England  it  is  obwrved**— ''  Tbe 
change  which  the  palace  of  Eltham  has  undergone  is 
exceedingly  striking.  This  edifice,  the  abode  of  sove- 
reigns, and  the  birth-place  of  princes^  is  now  a  farm ; 
and  the  beautiful  great  hall  where  parliaments  were 
held,  and  entertainments  given  in  all  the  pomp  of 
feudal  grandeur,  is  used  as  a  barn  for  the  housing 
and  threshing  of  com.  The  area  in  whic;h  the  build- 
ing stands  is  surrounded  by  a  high  stone  wall,  that 
has  been  partially  repaired  and  strengthened  by 
arches,  &c.  of  brick,  and  a  broad  and  deep  moat,  over 
which  are  two  bridges,  nearly  opposite  to  each  other, 
on  the  south  and  north  sides.  The  hall  is  a  most 
tioble  remain,  measuring  one  hundred  feet  in  length 
by  fifty-six  broad,  and  about  sixty  high.  The  win- 
dows have  been,  extremely  elegant,  but  are  now  bricked 
up.  The  roof  is  of  timber,  and  curiously  wrought  in 
the  manner  of  Westminster  Hall«  and  richly  orna- 
mented with  finely-carved  pendants.  Three  parks, 
well  provided  with  deer,  and  including  together  up- 
wards of  one  thousand  two  hundred  acres,  were 
formerly  connected  with  this  palace.'' — The  road  from 
London  to  Eltham  lies  through  Leigh  and  Lewisham.  . 

Returning  to  the  Gravesend  road,  we  arrive  at 
Greenhithc,  which  has  a  ferry  into  Essex  for  horses 
and  cattle,  and  is  famous  for  its  large  chalk  pits;  and 
hence,  through  Northfleet,  we  arrive  at  Gravesend, 
Opposite  to  this  town  is  Tilbury  For/,  buiH  by  Henry 
the  Eighth  to  prevent  misfortunes  similar  to  those 
which  occurred  in  lfi80,  when  this  town  was  burnt, 
and  several  of  the  inhabitants  carried  away  by  tbe 
French,  who  came  up  the  Thames  in  row  boats.  This 
town  derives  much  of  its  emolument  from  tbe  nume- 
rous parties  of  pleasure  who  go  there  by  water  (tota 
London  in  the  summer  season. 


7~T  :<-;:;  YOSK 


Walkiy 


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c_"i* -^  ^^  rsiJ.  :tX*t^^/^ 


iiaM#«A*«»Ji^  A^, 


i/:-  . 


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V     »    J..  ' 


'    y'  •  ■'  • 


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o.  .    ..',...1   *  ,J    •,.».•!    I    .♦  ;,•  \-   lV. 

.    •::   .  ;    \l''    i.>r\,    v.   «   ».-    •     .    . 


9 


i  i 


WALKS  THEOUOR  LONDON.  8l3 


WALK  IL 

Pram  Strcatham  to  Clapkam,  Tooting,  Mitckam,  Mortons 
Croyden,  Addington,  Ewel,  Epsom,  Lctherhead,  Box 
Hill,  MickUham,  Egham  and  Cooper^s  Hill,  Chcrtsey, 
St.  Anne's  Hill,  Weybridge,  Oatlands,  Kingston, 
Richmond,  Kew,  Brentford,  Km  Priory,  and  East 

In  our  ezcurBions  into  Surrey,  our  present  walk 
will  begin  from  Streatham,  fi^e  miles  from  London,  on 
the  road  to  Croydon.  The  church  at  Streatham  was 
built  at  difierent  periods,  and  its  tower,  supporting  a 
smaU  spire,  is  seen  al  a  great  distance.  Here  are  two 
tablets,  with  Latin  inscriptions,  written  by  the  late 
Dr.  Johnson,  to  the  memory  of  Mr.  Tbi-ale,  and 
Mrs.  Salisbury,  Mrs.  Thrale's  mother.  During 
Mr.  Thrale's  life.  Dr.  Johnson  was  frequently  an 
inmate  of  the  mansion  at  Streatham  Park.  This  house, 
formerly  in  the  possession  of  Gabriel  Piozzi,  Esq. 
who  married  Mr.  Thrale's  widow,  was  sold  in  the 
summer  of  1816,  with  all  iu  furniture,  library,  and 
pictures.  The  portraits,  including  those  of  nearly  all 
the  distinguished  visitors  of  Streatham  House,  were  thus 
disposed  of  by  Mr.  Squibb's  hammer :  The  Portrait 
of  Lord  Sondes,  thirty *five  guineas ;  Lord  Ly ttleton, 
forty-one;  Mr.  Murphy,  ninety*eight ;  Dr.  Goldsmith, 
one  hundred  and  twenty*se?en ;  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds, 
one  hundred  and  twenty-two;  Sir  Robert  Chambers, 
eighty ;  Mr.  Garrick,  one  hundred  and  seventy«five ; 
Mr.  Baretti,  eighty-two;  Dr.  Burney,  eighty;  Mr. 
Burke;  two  hundred  and  forty;  and  Dr.  Johnson, 
three  hundred  and  sixty.  The  library  consisted  of 
about  three  thousand  volumes  of  the  best  authors^ 


814  WALKS  THBOOGH  LOMDON. 

• 

which  sold  well ;  but  none  of  them  being  scarce,  there 
were  no  remarkable  prices. 

Adjoining  to  Streatham  is  Clapham,  about  four 
miles  from  Westminster  Bridge:  the  village  consists 
of  handsome  houses  surrounding  a  common,  which 
is  so  beautifnlly  planted  with  trees  that  ft  resembles  a 
park.  This  pariiffa  pfobaMy  ^received  its  name  from 
one  of  Its  ancknt  proprietors,  Oigood  Clappa^  'being 
the  name  of  Ihe  Danish  Icft'd  at  whose  daughter's 
marriage-feabt  Hardicannte  died. 

Next  to  Clapham,  on  the  road  to  Epsom,  is  IFVMm^, 
another  pleasant  village. 

The  road  to  the  sotfth  leads  to  BlRiehdm  :  the  beau- 
tiful stream,  called  The  Wimdie,  runs  through  it, 
remarkable  for  its  purity  and  transparency.  On  Hit 
entrance  into  Mitcham  fVom  Sutton  is  the  vHla  of 
Mitcham  Grove,  formerly  the  residence  of  Lord 
Loughborough.  The  font  in  Mitcham  Church  is  oma« 
neiited  with  Gothic  tracery,  and  resemUes  that  of 
Mortlake,  erected  about  the  reign  of  Henry  the  Sixth. 

Nearly  adjoining  Mitcham  and  Tooting  is  Merttm 
ifH  the  Wandh,  the  parish  church  of  which  was  built 
of  dints,  early  in  the  twelfth  century,  by  the  founder 
of  the  abbey,  hear  it.  From  the  style  of  architecture, 
the  present  cbureh  seems  the  original  structure.  The 
bridge  over  the  river  is  remarkable  for  its  arch,  which 
18  turned  with  tiles,  instead  of  brick,  or  stone,  and  h 
the  boundary  of  the  thKe  parishes  of  Mitcham,  Wim- 
bledon, and  Merton. 

To  the  soutii  of  Merton  is  Mordm,  the  seat  of  the 
late  Abraham  Gotdsmid,  Esq. ;  and  the  parish  i^reh; 
dedicated  to  St.  Laurence,  ia  a  pvoturesque  objjeot,  witft 
pointed  windows. 

Croydon,  stands  on  the  edge  of  Banstead  Dowit^ 
and  is  a  handsome  market-town.  The  Arehiepiseopal 
Palace  here  was  founded  near  the  site  of  a  royal  itn-* 
dcnce,  which  the  king  bcalowed  upon  the  arcbbidiops 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  315 

of  Canterbvry.  Neiir  Uu0  place  Arcbbisbqp  Whstgift, 
vfaooi  Queen  HUabetb  used  to  call  ber  little  black 
husband,. built  and  epdowed  a  btauiiful  honpital  for  ^be 
poor,  and  a  school.  The  old  Archbishop's  Palace, 
being  sold  in  1780,  is  now  Ut  to  tenants,  who  carry  on 
the  calico  printing  manufactory  on  the  spot:  the 
jj^rden  is  used  as  a  bleaching  ground.  —  Croydon 
Chiircb  is  .esteemed  one  of  the  largest  and  most  band- 
aome.  structures  in  the  county,  and  contains  aome 
remarkable  tombs. 

Addiicimbe  Place,  in  this  neighbourhood,  is  a  band- 
iMne  seat,  the  residence  of  the  Earl  of  Liverpool. 

Barling'Haiue  and  Part  were  the  property  ctf 
Charles  Howard,  Lord  High  Admiral  in  the  reign  of 
EUxabeth. 

Aidington  is  a  village  three  miles  to  the  ^act  of 
GfoydoD,  and  near  it.  is  a  small  cluster  of  tumuli, 
about  twenty-fire  in  number.  The  church,  partly 
nrbuiit  about  the  time  of  Edward  tbe  Third,  is  a  very 
small  structure. 

In  the  adjoining  pariah  of  Sandersted  is  Purlcjf^ 
which  will  be  remembei^  as  the  residence  of  John 
Home  TookCf  £19.  from  the  wcumstapce  of  his  learned 
grammatical  work  writtep  \hfiie»  eatitl^4,  "  The  Diver- 
sions of  Purley." 

Pursuing  a  westward  direction,  we  come  to  Tka 
OakM,  the  villa  of  the  £arl  of  Derby,  on  Banst^d 
]>awii6.  and  built  t^y  a  4P9ifty  of  gentlemen,  called 
7%B  JbuUfir'e.  CM>  It  c^>mmands  a  prospect  of  Nor- 
wood, Shooter's  Hill,  &c.  At  the  west  end  is  a  large 
brick  building,  with  towers  at  each  comer,  which 
renders  the  structure  uniform,  and  gives  it  a  Gothic 
Appearance..  It  ^s  ^^id  tba^  his  lordship  can  accomqio- 
cl^bifl  guests  with  more  tli^an  fifty  bed-cbambcirs. 

T^.  Uie  9.9rtb-w9»t  of  Ban^^toad  is  Ewel,  whence, 
ve  pcoCi^.  t9.  fjpmfij  Here,  it  is  sfud,  ar^  so  oiafiy 
fiddsj  mes^^fpwp,  ofcbard^y  gf^e];is«.  &c,  that  a  sU'angcr 


S16  WALKS  THROUGH   LONDOH. 

would  be  at  a  ioes  to  know  whether  thU  was  a  town 
built  in  a  wood,  or  a  wood  surrounded  by  a  town. 
There  are  many  fine  seats  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
this  once-celebrated  place. 

Aghted  and  Letherhead  come  next  within  our  obser* 
vatioii.  The  toads  to  Guildford  and  Brighton  lay 
through  the  latter  place;  but  Box-Hill,  only  three 
miles  distant,  affords  the  strongest  inducement  for  a 
traveller  to  visit  it.  Its  prospects  are  so  extensiTe,  and 
its  situation  so  romantic,  that  not  to  see  and  walk  down 
it  would  be  an  error  unpardonable.  Opposite  to  this 
hill  are  the  heights  of  Norbury  Park.  The  west  and 
north  views  of  Box-Hill  overlook  a  large  part  of  Surrey 
and  Middlesex ;  and  from  its  summit,  in  a  clear  day« 
it  afifords  a  prospect  over  part  of  Kent  and  Surrey,  and 
the  whole  of  Sussex  quite  to  the  South  Downs,  near  the 
sea,  distant  thirty-six  miles.  Advancing  to  the  put 
called  the  Quarry,  upon  the  ridge  of  the  hill  that  runt 
towards  Mickleham,  we  look  down  from  a  vast  and 
almost  perpendicular  height  upon  a  well-cultivated 
vale,  and  see  the  river  Mole  winding  close  to  the  bottom 
of  the  mountain,  as  if  directly  under  our  feet,  though 
it  is  really  at  a  great  distance.  In  fact,  Box-Hill  i* 
only  exceeded  by  Leiik-Hill  for  prospect;  the  latter 
is  about  five  miles  from  Dorking,  on  the  road  to 
Horsham. 

We  pass  over  an  obscure  part  of  Surrey,  and,  creas- 
ing the  Thames,  proceed  through  .Bagshot  to  Egkmm, 
and  Cotter's  Hiil  immortalized  by  Sir  John  Deoham. 

Here  bis  first  Ujt  majestic  Denbam  sung, 

Tbere  Uie  Ust  aumbert  flow'd  from  Cowley*i  toDgae. 

The  glory  of  Egham  and  its  vicinity  is  Runf^fmedc, 
where  King  John,  after  the  most  shameful  prevaricatiott« 
was  compelled  by  the  Barons  to  sign  Magna  Ckaria, 

Chertsey  and  St.  Anne's  Hill  are  both  memorable ; 
the  first  as  the  residence  of  Cowley  the  poet,  and  the 


WALKS   THROUGH   LONDON.  817 

latter  as  that  of  the  late  Right  Honourable  Charles 
James  Fox. 

Caway  Stakes,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  below  the 
bridge  over  the  Thames  from  Chertsey,  is  supposed  by 
many  to  have  been  the  spot  where  Julius  Cssar 
crossed  with  the  Roman  army,  when  he  led  them  into 
the  kingdom  of  the  British  King  Cassivelaunus ;  but 
others  think,  with  more  probability  on  their  side,  that 
CsMar  crossed  the  Thames  on  this  occasion,  near 
Chelsea. 

Coasting  the  Thames,  we  arrive  at  Weybridge,  four 
miles  from  Hampton  Court. 

Oatlands  is  a  noble  mansion,  situated  in  the  middle 
of  a  park,  six  miles  in  circumference.  The  Ser- 
pentine River,  though  artificial,  appears  as  if  it  was 
natural;  and  a  stranger,  from  the  view  of  ^a/<aii- 
Bridge,  would  conclude  it  to  be  the  Thames. 

Pain*8  Hill  and  Cobham  Park  are  the  next  objects 
of  attention^  and  next  to  these  Esher  Place  and  Ember 
Court. 

At  Kingston,  the  woodc!n  bridge  over  the  Thames 
is  said  to  be  nearly  as  ancient  as  London-Bridge, 
The  first  construction  of  the  church  seems  to  be  of 
the  age  of  Richard  the  Second.  The  bam  belong- 
ing  to  Canbury-House  was  so  spacious  that  twelve 
teams  might  unload  at  once.  It  bad  four  entrance^, 
four  threshing-floors,  and  was  supported  by  several 
pillars. 

To  describe  the  beauties  of  Richmond,  to  which  we 
6ext  proceed,  our  pen  is  totally  inadequate.  The 
prospect  from  the  hill  has  inspired  many  poetical, 
flights,  but  few  equal  to  Thomson  in  his  Seasons  : 

**  Heareot  V  what  a  gttodly  pmptct  spreads  around 
**  Of  bills,  aDd  dales,  and  woods,  and  lawns,  and  spires, 
^  And  glitt'riiig  towns,  and  gifak d  streams,  till  all 
.  ^  Ilic  stretching  landscape  into  smoke  dccajs/' 


did  WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON. 

"  In  every  poink  of  new,"  .says  an  enlightened 
foreigner,  "  Richmond  is  assuredly  one  of  the  first 
situations  in  the  world.  Here  it  was  that  Thomson 
and  Pope  gleaned  from  nature  all  those  heantifol 
passiages.  Here  I  ti'od  on  that  fresh,  even«  and  soft 
verdure,  which  is  to  he  seen  only  in  ^England  :  on  one 
tMe  of  me  lay  a  wood,  than  which  nature  cannot  pro* 
duce  a  finer;  and  on  th^  other,  the  Thames,  with  its 
shelVy  bank  and  charming  laiwns  rising  like  an  amphi- 
theatre, along  which,  here  and  there,  one  espies  a  pic- 
turesque white  house  aspiring  in  majestic  simplicity 
to  pierce  the  dark  foliage  of  the  surrounding  trees, 
thus  studding,  like  stars  in  the  galaxy,  the  rich  ex- 
paiise  of  this  charming  vale. 

''  Sweet  Richmond !  never,  no  never,  shall  I  forget 
that  lovely  evening  when  I  traversed  to  and  fro  thy 
meads,  thy  little  sweHing  hills,  and  flowery  dells ;  and, 
above  all,  that  queen  of  nvers,  thy  own  majestic 
Thames ;  I  forgot  all  sublunary  cares,  and  thought 
only  of  heaven  and  heavenly  things.  Happy,  thrice 
happy  am  I,  I  again  and  again  exclaimed,  that  I  am 
here  in  Elysium,  in  Bichmondi" 

JSrttf  and  its  gardens  are  objects  of  admiration.  The 
ehui'ch,  formerly  the  chapel,  was  erected,  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  nobility  and  gentry,  on  a  piece  of  ground 
given  by  Clueen  Anne.'  As  th^  royal  family  frequently 
attend  Kew  Church,  it  is  superbly  fitted  up,  and'^thie 
architecture  is  in  the  best  taste.  The  royal  seats  fill 
the  gallery ;  but  on  the  ground  floor  are  forty -eight 
pe^s  of  brown  oak,  adapted  for  four  and  six  persons 
each.  Among  the  inscriptibns  upon  the  monuments 
h^re,  that  upon  a  marble  dab  to  the  memory  of  Meye)r; 
the  painter,  written  by  Mr.  Hayley,  is  both  elegant 
and  appropriate. 

Kcw  Green  is  a  trhmgolar  ^n«a  of  tboot  thiHy  acres, 
and  nearly  in' its  centre  is  the  Church  of  St.  Anne, 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDOK.  SI9 

befiore-inentioned.  In  tke  western  corner  of  this 
green  is  the  palace  m  which  his  present  mijesty  passed 
many  of  the  early  years  of  his  reign.  Near  this  is  the 
new  palace,  frowning  with  Gothic  grandear  on  the 
passing  eye.  Its  external  form  is  so  contrived  that 
nothing  more  can  be  constructed  within  it  than  a 
series  of  large  closets,  boudoirs,  and  rooms  hke  Ora- 
tories; however,  since  his  Majesty's  illness,  the  works 
here  have  been  suspended.  The  principal  view  from 
tlm  palace  is  the  town  of  Brentford  on  the  oppo* 
site  side  of  the  rirer. — 'On  the  south  side  of  •  this  green 
is  the  plain  house  of  Prince  Ernest,  Duke  of  Cumber- 
land, and  some  erections  for  the  military. 

On  the  long  boundary  wall  of  Kew  Gardens  a  dis- 
abled sailor  lately  chalked  out  the  whole  of  the  British 
navy :  over  each  vessel  is  the  name  and  number  of  the 
guns  which  it  carries.  Most  of  these  representations 
are  five  or  six  feet  long,  and  with  the  intervening  dis- 
tancest  eictended  above  a  mile  and  a  half. 

Koto  P^otyt  as  it  Is  called,  is  distinguished  by  its 
Gothic  stjrle  and  batllementSr  It  belongs  to  Miss 
Doughty,  and  consists  merely  of  a  chapel,  a  room  for 
refreshmentSi  and  a  library.  Behind  this  Priory  there 
is  4  house  for  the  bailiff  and  bis  wife,  a  pheasantry, 
an  aviary,  and  extensive  stables.  The  whole  en- 
closure consists  of  twenty-four  acres;  but,  being  on 
the  banks  of  the  Thames,  is  ex|)Osed  to  its  inundations, 
which  sometimes  cover  the  whole  surface. 

East  Sheen  has  many  beantiflil  villas. 

Bam  Elms,  which  consists  of  two  houses  otily ;  thef 
first  an  ancient  mansion,  called,  *'  ihtten  Elkatbeth^s 
Dairy f*  and  the  other  the  Manor-House :  this,  with' 
a  very  extensive'  landed  property  adjoming,  which 
is  held  under  t)^  chapter  'of  St'  Pauls,  is  now*  the 
property  of  Henry  Hugh  Hoare,  Bsq;  and  descended' 
te  him  from  h»  graad&ther,^  Sir^Ricbard  HaktCi  Knt. 


^90  WALKS   THROUGH    LONDON. 

and  Lord  Mayor  for  the  city  of  London  in  tlie  year 
1745-6,  and  from  his  father,  the  late  Sir  Richard 
Hoare,  Bart.  This  house,  which  has  b^n  considerably 
enlarged  and  modernized,  is  seated  on  a  small  paddock 
at  some  distance  from  the  Thames. 

Putney  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Thames,  oppo- 
site Fulham,  and  there  are  many  agreeable -villas  on 
Putney  Common  on  the  road  to  Roehampton. — Wim- 
bledon Common  is  also  surrounded  with  seats  of  the 
nobility  and  gentry;  and  from  Wandsworth  an  iron 
rail-way  to  Croydon  has  been  some  time  completed. 


WALK  in. 


Windsor,  Hie  Park,  Eton  College,  Frogmore,  Tring, 
Btuhy,  Ware,  Amwell,  The  Rye-Hotue,  Hertford, 
Verulam,  St.  Albans,  Bamet,  Friem  Bamet,  Hadl^, 
Cheskunt,  Theobalds,  Waltham  Cross,  Stratford  and 
Bow,  West  Ham,  Wanstead -House,  Barking,  Dagen- 
ham,  Purfleet,' Tilbury  Fort,  Waltham  Abbey,  and 
Walthamstow, 

Entering  Berkshire  from  the  county  of  Surrey,  we 
naturally  proceed  to  Windsor,  as  an  object  of  the 
greatest  curiosity.  Here  the  Castle,  with  St.  George's 
Chapel,  certainly  eclipses  any  other  royal  residence 
in  the  kingdom;  but  as  the  beauties  of  the  situa- 
tion,at  large,  and  the  magnificence  of  the  interiorj 
are  beyond  our  limits^  we  must  refer  our  readers  to  the 
guides,  and  other  professed  descriptions  of  thia  ancient 
abode  of  royal  splendour. 

The  Long  Walk,  nearly  three  miles  in  lengthy  and 


WALKS  THROUOB  LONDON.  '9%l 

adorned  on  each  side  with  a  double  plantation  of 
stately  trees,  leads  to  the  summit  of  a  delightful  hill, 
near  the  lodge  of  the  Great  Park,  from  whence  there 
ia  a  very  luxuriant  prospect  of  the  Castle,  Eton  Col- 
lege, and  the  distant  country.  This  park  includes  a 
circuit  of  fourteen  miles,  and  Windsor  Forest  un- 
doubtedly forms  a  circumference,  of  more  than  fifty 
ipiles,  abounding  with  deer  and  game. 

Windsor  Castle. — This  ancient    fortress,    built  by 
TiTilliam  the  Conqueror,  which  his  present   majesty 
and  the  Queen  have  long  made  their  principal  resi- 
dence, is  twenty-two  miles  west  of  London.     Situated 
on  an  eminence,  the  terrace,  which  extends  along  the 
east,  and  part  of  the  northern  side  of  the  castle,  is 
1870  feet  in  length  ;  here  used  to  be  a  regular  prome- 
nade every  evening  during  the  summer  |  and  here  the 
King  of  England,  and  his  family,  were  only  known  as 
individuals,  mingling,  as  it  were,  with  all  their  subjects 
indiscriminately,  from  the  prince  to  the  peasant.    The 
paintings,  the  tapestry,  and  the  curiosities  here,  would 
require  a  volume  to  describe  them  :  those  in  the  state 
room  may  be  seen  for  a  gratuity  of  one  or  two  shillings. 
The  church,  or  St.  George's  Chapel,  is  one  of  the 
finest  of  the  Gothic  buildings  in  the  kingdom.     Moritz, 
speaking  of  a  view  from  the  hill  of  Windsor  Castle, 
says,  '*  Below  me  lay  one  of  the  most  beautiful  land* 
scapes  in  the  world ;  all  the  rich  scenery  that  nature, 
in  her  best  attire,  can  exhibit.     Here  were  the  spots 
that  furnished  those  delightful  themes  of  which  the 
muse  of  Denham  and  Pope  made  choice.     I  seemed  to 
view  a  whole  world  at  once,  rich  and  beautiful  beyond 
conception.     I  now  went  down  a  gentle  declivity  into 
the  delightful  park  of  Windsor,  at  the  foot  of  which  ife 
looks  so  sombrous  and  gloomyt  that  I  could  n6t  help 
fancying  it  was  some  vast  Gothic  old  temple.    This 
forest,  certainly,  in  point  of  beauty,  surpasses  every 
thing  of  the  kind  you  can  figure  to  yourself.    To  iti 
y 


992  WALKS  TBEOUGH  LONOOIC. 

own  chariWt  when  I  saw  it,  there  were  added  a  moit 
pleasing  and  philosophical  solitude ;  and  the  coolneM 
of  an  evening  breeze,  aU  aided  by  the  soft  sounds  of 
music,  threw  me  into  a  sort  of  enthusiastic  and  pleasing 
reverie.*' 

Eton,  opposite  Windsor,  on  the  Thames,  has  at  all 
times  been  famous  for  its  royal  college  and  school; 
where,  besides  seventy  king's  scholars,  as  they  are 
called,  there  are  seldom  less  than  three  hundred  noble- 
men and  gentlemens*  sons.  It  is  also  immortalized  by 
one  of  Gray's  beautiful  Odes. 

FrogntorC'House,  which  had  many  possessors  during 
the  civil  wars,  W9s  purchased  by  her  Majesty  Queen 
Chark>tte>  who  made  considerable  additions  to  the 
house  and  gardens. 

Traversing  a  part  of  Buckinghamshire,  by  a  rout 
comparatively  dreary,  we  enter  Hertfordshire  at  Triwg, 
Mo  scenery,  however,  can  be  much  more  diversified 
thvi  that  in  some  parts  of  this  county,  especially  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  BiuAy.  Bushy-Heath,  ad^niog 
the  village  of  this  name,  is  a  spacious  common.  From 
hence,  on  the  one  hand,  is  a  view  of  St.  Albans,  and 
all  the  spafoe  between,  which  appears  like  a  garden ; 
the  enclosed  corn-fields  seem  like  one  parterre;  the 
thick-planted  hedges  resemble  a  wilderness;  the  vil* 
lages  taterspereed  at  a  distance  appeai;  like  a  number 
of  gentlemens'  seats^  Hampioo-Cosrt  and  Windaor 
are  seen  to  the  south  and  south-west,  with  the  Thames 
winding  through  the  most  beautiful  parts  of  Middle* 
sesc  and  Surrey. 

Wa/rtf  on  the  river  Lea,  twenty*oae  miles  from 
London,  is  worth  visiting.  The  church  here  is  Urge» 
k^  the  form  of  a  cross;  and  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
place  are  a  number  of  gentlemens'  seats,  including 
Wane  Park,  &c. 

Proceeding  in  a  southern  direction  from  Waxie,  we 
arrive  at  Atmocll,  which  has  been  rendered  lotefesting 


VAUU  THBOUOH  LOMBON*  323 

tosoitiaieiiCal  iniTcIlers  by  a  bcaiitifuL  poem*  written 
by  Mr.  Sooft,  one  of  iu  former  iobabttante,  who  has 
wdl  described  iU 

**  Bright  gceeo  pastares,  Etretch'd  by  rirert  clear^ 
*'  Aod  willow  groret  and  other  islands  near." 

THr  Bye-Hi3/uae,  an  anc'rent  mamion  in  the  parish  of 
Stantted,  in  the  road  to  Hodde^don,  has  been  very 
mach  celebrated  in  the  History  of  England.  Fart  of 
the  building,  now  serving  as  a  workhoase,  has  both 
battlements  and  loop-holes;  but  it  derired  its  late 
name  from  what  was  called.  The  Rye-Mouse  Plot,  in 
the  reign  of  Charles  the  Second. 

Broxboum  is  a  small  biit  pleasant  rrllage,  situated 
on  a  rising  ground,  with  meadows  down  to  the  river 
Lea. 

Hertford  formerly  contained  five  churches ;  it  is 
built  after  the  figure  of  a  Roman  Y,  the  castle  being 
placed  between  the  horns.  Hertford  is  still  a  consi- 
derable place,  and  contains  several  streets  and  lanes, 
as  High-Street,  the  Market-Place,  Cburch^treet, 
Castle-Street,  St.  Andrew's,  St.  John's-Street,  St. 
Nicholas'- Lane,  &c.  The  East  India  Company's  Col- 
lege stands  at  Idttle  Amwell,  in  the  parish  of  All 
Saints. 

Verulam,  from  which  St.  Albans  took  its  rise,  was, 
in  the  time  of  the  Kottmns,  a  large  and  populons  city  : 
titere  are  no  vestiges  of  it  now  bat  ruins  of  walls,  some 
tesselated  pavements,  and  Roman  coins,  which  are  dug: 
np  from  time  tp  time.  One  part  of  the  ditch  is  still 
visible ;  and,  it  is  said,  some  of  the  streets  may  like- 
Wise  be  traced.  The  part  of  the  Roman  wall  by  Gor- 
bam  Block  is  twelve  feet  thick. 

St.'AlbanM.—Tbe  most  distinguished  object  here  is 
the  ancient  abbey.  The  structure  is  cruciform,  six 
hundred  feet  at  the  intcrseetion,  the  transepts  one 
hundred  and  eighty,  the  height  of  the  tower  one 


884  WALKS  TBIOCGH  LOMDOII. 

hundred  and  forty-four  feet  The  Saxon  ityk  of 
architecture  b  preserved  in  many  parts  of  this  build- 
ing ;  but  the  repairs  of  difierent  ages  have  nearly  done 
away  all  distinction.  Facing  the  south  door  is  the 
monument  of  Humphry,  brother  to  Henry  the  Fifths 
commonly  called  the  good  Duke  of  Gloucester.  In 
the  niches,  on  one  side  of  it,  are  the  ^gies  of  seventeen 
kings,  and  it  is  adorned  with  a  ducal  coronet,  and  the 
arms  of  England  and  France  quartered.  The  shrine 
of  St.  Alban  stood  on  the  east  side  of  the  church,  now 
the  vestry ;  in  the  pavement  are  six  holes,  wherein  the 
supporters  of  it  were  fixed.  A  recess  built  of  wood, 
between  two  pillars,  is  called,  "  The  Watch-Room;" 
here  the  monks  attended  to  receive  the  donations  of 
various  devotees,  as  well  as  to  guard  the  riches  of  the 
shrine.  This  ancient  edifice  still  contains  a  monu- 
ment of  Ofia,  who  is  represented  sitting  on  his  thr<me, 
with  a  Latin  inscription,  thus  translated  : 

The  foanHtr  «f  tbe  Cbarch  aboat  the  year  798, 
Whom  yo«  behold  ill  paioted  oo  hit  tbiwie 
-Subline,  was  once  for  Mercian  Offii  koown. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  chancel  of  St.  Michael's 
Church,  in  this  town,  in  a  niche  in  the  wall,  is  the 
effigy  of  the  famous  Francis  Bacon,  Lord  Verulam, 
made  of  alabaster,  and  seated  in  a  chair  of  ebony,  wKh 
a  flattering  inscription,  in  Latin,  undemeathp 

Bamct,  or  High  Bamet,  as  being  situated  on  a  hill, 
is  remarkable  for  the  monument  which  stands  at  the 
twelve  mile-stone  beyond  the  town,  erected  to  comme- 
morate the  battle  fought  there,  on  the  14th  of  April 
1471,  between  King' Edward  the  Fourth  and  the  Earl 
of  Warwick,  in  which  the  Earl  was  slain,  with  many 
of  the  prime  nobility.  Here  the  road  divides,  the 
right  hand  to  York,  and  the  left  to  Liverpool :  hence 
to  St.  Aibaos  is  ten  miles,  nine  to  Hatfield,  and  ten  to 
Watford.    This  town  is  a  great  thoroughfare. 


WALKS   THmOUGH   LONDON.  335 

^East  Bamet,  a  viUage  near  Whetstone^  \ra8  formerly 
much  frequented  on  account  of  iU  medicinal  spring. 

Priem  Bmnet,  between  Ftncbley  and  Whetstone^ 
includes  tb^  parish  of  Co/ney  Hatch,  The  manor- 
house  is  a  Tery  ancient  structure :  it  has  undergone 
many  alterations.  Its  last  owner  was  the  late  John 
Bacon,  Esq.  His  residence  here  was  originally  an 
appendage  to  the  Priory  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem ; 
and,  at  the  dissolution  of  monasteries,  was  granted  to 
the  Dean  and  Chapter  of  St,  Paul's,  under  whom  it  wai 
held,  at  a  small  reserTcd  rent,  by  ?arious  lessees,  the 
last  of  whom  was  Mr.  Bacon,  who  resided  there  from 
1783  to  the  time  of  his  death.  In  1800,  he  purchased 
from  the  Dean  and  Chapter,  (under  the  authority  of 
an  Act  for  the  Redemption  of  the  Land  Tax},  the 
manor  of  Friern  Bamet,  with  their  whok  landed  pro- 
perty  in  that  parish ;  a  purchase  which,  under  a  sub- 
sequent Act  for  the  enclosure  of  Finchley  Common, 
proved  highly  advantageous. — "  The  Manor-House^ 
which  is  situated  aeiir  the  church,  is  a  very  ancient 
structure.  It  has  undergone  many  alterations;  but 
a  considerable  part  of  the  old  building  still  remains^ 
particularly  some  wooden  cloisters,  which,  though  by 
DO  means  an  uncommon  appendage  to  an  old  hotise, 
has  occasioned  a  tradition  that  this  was  a  cell  to  the 
Priory,  or  at  least  a  former  residence  of  the  monks. 
An  arched  way,  now  stopped  up,  from  the  house  to 
the  end  of  the  terrace  in  the  garden,  has  given  rise  U^ 
the  usual  stories  of  Monkish  intrigues.  It  appears  by 
Norden's  '  Survey  of  Middlesex,'  that  Lord  Chief 
Justice  Popham,  in  his  time,  resided  at  Fryam  Manor* 
The  late  worthy  owner,  had  some  portraits  there  of  the 
Bacon  family ;  among  whom  were  the  Chancellor,  the 
Lord  Keeper,  and  one  said  to  be  Roger  Bacon.  He 
had  also  the  original  cast  of  Rpubiliac's  bust  of  Hanp 
del;  over  which  was  placed  a  portrait  of  Charlea^ 


336  WALKS   nntOOGB   LOMHOff. 

Jemiens^  £iq.  who  compiled*  tke  words  of  many  of  his 
Oratorios." 

HadUy,  adjoining  High  Barnet,  is  a  very  pkaaant 
village.  The  church  js  atieient^  and  is  supposed  to 
stand  upon  the  highest  ground  of  aoy  in  England. 
From  the  churdi-yard  ane  fine  prospects  over  Enfield 
Chase,  the  Thames,  and  the  county  of  Essex ;  and  on 
the  top  of  the  tower  is  a  beacon. 

Passing  on  to  €he$hunt :  here  is  a  plain  brick  edilke, 
hi  which  Cardinal  Wblsey  is  said  to  have  resided.  It 
lias  been  nearly  rebuilt  since  his  time;  (wt  is  still 
mrrounded  by  a  deep  moat.  In  the  upper  part  of  this 
house,  called  Cheshnnt-House,  is  a  room,  the  door 
of  which  is  stained  with  blood ;  the  tradition  is— an 
niifoitnnate  lady  became  a  victim  to  the  €ardinal*s 
jealoasy,  and  that  he  di^Mtcbcd  her  with  his  own 
hand.  If  so,  it  is  tinaccountaible  that  the  murderer 
ahoald  have  sufiered  those  marks  of  his  violence  to  have 
remained. 

Okethunt  Nmrmery  was  situated  to  the  east  of  the 
higli  road;  a  very  small  part  of  it  remains,  belong* 
ing  to  tbe  residence  of  Mrs,  Blackwood,  used  as  a 
kitofcen.  Tbe  river  Lea  forms  a  canal  in  tbe  front  of 
the  house,  and*  a  beautifot  mta  is  terminated  by  a 
view  i6f  Waltham  Abbey. 

Near  Cbeshunt  is  Tkeobaids;  and  here  the  magni- 
ficent hOHse,  bulk  by  tV^flltavn  CedU  Lord  Burkigh) 
afterwards  became  the  residence  of  James  the  First, 
iiho  died  here  in  March  1635.  Hie  fast  remains  of 
this  palace  was  piilled  down  in  1 766.  It  kood  at  1%e 
south-east  corner  of  what  is  tallied  Tbeobald's-Squares 
The  late  George  Pnescot,  Esq.  erected  the  handsome 
brrck  edifice,  Mw  caHed  Theobald's:  Cbeshnnt 
Church  is  a  spacious  Gothic  build'mg,  consisting  of 
a -centre  and  two  aiaSes,'  boH^  !n  the  reign  of  Henry 
the  Sixth ;  tins,  and  the  dinrch-yard,  contain  some 
curious  monuments. 


WALKS  THftOUOH   LOKDOlf.'  3S7 

WdUham  Cross  U  a  hamlet  of  Chesfaunt  parish,  and 
is  about  eleven  miles  from  London :  this  remnant  of 
antiquity  is  in  a  very  dilapidated  state* 

Crossing  into  the  county  of  Essex  from  hence,  we  visit 
Waitham  Abbey,  or  Holy  Cross,  about  twelve  miles  from 
London,  where  a  few  beautiful  fragments  of  the  abbey 
still  remain,  in  a  style  of  architecture  much  later  than 
that  of  the  church,  particularly  a  Gothic  arch,  which 
formed  the  entrance,  and  terminated  a  noble  vista  of 
trees,  which  no  longer  exist.  Adjoining  to  this  gate, 
the  porter's  lodge  still  remains.  King  Harold,  and  his 
two  brothers,  after  being  slain  in  the  Battle  of  Hastings^ 
were  interred  at  the  east  end  of  the  ancient  church^ 
A  pl«n  stone  is  said  to  have  been  laid  over  Harold,  with 
this  expressive  epitaph,  '^  Harold  Infelix.''  The  town 
if  large  and  irregular,  and  a  number  of  good  brick 
dwellings  have  lately  been  added  to  the  old  erections 
of  lath  and  plaster. 

Epping  is  chiefly  noted  for  its  butter  and  sausages. 
In  its  vicinity  is  Copt,  or  Copped  Hall,  late  the  seat  of 
John  Conyers,  Esq.  a  perfect  model  of  convenient  and 
elegant  architecture.  The  ancient  Coppice  Hall  was 
90  called  from  the  neighbouring  woods,  and  belonged 
to  the  Abbots  of  Waitham  as  a  mansion  for  pleasure 
and  privacy.     Epping  is  sixteen  miles  from  London. 

Chingford  is  so  agreeably  situated  for  retirement, 
that  the  most  remote  distance  from  the  metropolis  can 
scarcely  exceed  it. 

Woodford,  in  its  vicinity,  eight  miles  from  London, 
IS  a  very  pleasant  village,  with  agreeable  villas  on  each 
side  of  the  road,  commanding  fine  prospects  over  a 
beautiful  country. 

WaUhamstow,  five  miles  from  London,  on  the  road 
from  Lea  Bridge  to  Epping,  has  many  handsome 
houses,  particularly  Higham  Hall.  From  the  archi- 
tecture of  the  churchy  it  appears  to  have  been  built 
about  the  year  1113,  being  a  large  Gothic  stracture^ 


398  .WALK«   THROUGH    LONBOK. 

ccHwittihg  of  two  aidei«  beskkt  the  body.    Two  ttew 
galleries  were  added  to  this  church  in  1807« 

Low  Layton  ia  pleasantly  situated  near,  the  river 
Lea,  and  is  principally  inhabited  by  genteel  families ; 
and  this  parish  having  furnished  a  great  number  <€ 
antiquities^  Camden  is  inclined  to  think  that  here  was 
the  site  of  the  DuroUtum  of  Antoninus* 

Laytonstone  is  a  hamlet  belonging  to  Layton*  Here 
ia  a. chapel  of.  ease  to  the  pahsh  church* 
.  West  Ham  is  one  mile  south  of  Stratford^  Near  the 
Abbey  Mills  are  the  site  and  remains  of  a  monastery^ 
called  the  Abbey  of  Stratford  Langthom*  and  founded 
by  William  Montfichetj  in  1135«  Beside  a  gateway 
still  standing,  a^ioining  to  the  Adam  and  Eve  public 
bouse«  is  one  of  the  stone  arches  of  the  abbey.  In  the 
kitchen  is  a  carved  grave-stoncj  and  in.  the  gardoi  a 
stope  coffin^  In  a  field  adjoining  is  one  of  the  chapels 
nearly  entire^  used  as  a  stable,  'the  parish  church  of 
Westham  is  a  spacious  building,  with  atower  cootaining 
ten  bells ;  the  interior  has  many  fine  monumenta. 
,  Eoii  Ham,  between  West  Ham  and  Barkings  con- 
tains a  spring  called  Miller* g  Well,  which  has  never 
been  known  to  have  been  frozen,  or  to  vary  in  its 
height — Green-Street  House^  in  this  parish,  is  a  fine 
old  mansion^  though  partly  n^oderaized:  there  is  a 
tower  in  th^  garden  fifty  feet  high. 

Crossing  the  high  road  to  the  norths  we  oome  to 
Wanstead,  a  village  six  miles  from.  London,  on  the 
skirts  of  Epping  Forest.  The  .  church,  a  new  and 
beautiful  structure,  waa  finished  in  1790;  the  portico 
is  of  the  Doric  order>  and  the  cupola  supported  by 
eight  Ionic  columns.  The  internal  order  is  Cprinthiaa« 
Wanstead- House  is  one  of  the  noblest  in  England.  The 
magnificence  of  baying  four  state  bed-chambers,  with 
complete  apartments  to  them,  and  the  ball  room*  ace 
superior  to  any  thing  of  the  kind  in  Hougbton>  Holk- 
ham,  Blenheim,  and  Willon;  but  each  of  these  is 


WALKS   TBBOUGtl   LONDON.  929 

superior  to  this  in  oUier  particalan ;  so  that;  to  form  a 
complete  palace,  something  must  be  taken  from  all. 
Since  it  has  beenin  the  possession  of  the  Honourable 
Mr.  Wellesley  Pole,  it  has  not  been  customary  as 
before  to  shew  the  building  to  the  public  at  large ;  on 
the  contrary,  the  inhabitants  in  the  vicinity  have  only 
preserved  their  right  of  passing  through  the  park  by  a 
suit  at  law,  in  which  they  were  successful. 

In  Hainauli  Forest,  about  a  mile  from  Barking  side, 
is  the  Oak  which  has  been  known,  through  many  cen* 
turies,  by  the  name  of  Fairlop,  so  much  celebrated  for 
the  annual  fair  held  round  it  on  the  first  Friday  in 
July. 

Barking  is  seven  miles  from  London,  on  the  rivei* 
Roding,  and  a  creek  from  the  Thames.  The  Bene- 
dictine  nunnery,  founded  here  in  675,  was  the  oldest 
and  richest  in  England.  The  founder  was  Erkenwald, 
son  of  Ofia,  King  of  the  East  Saxons,  for  his  sister 
Ethdburga.  A  gateway,  near  the  church-yard,  and 
a  considerable  part  of  the  wall,  are  still  visible. 

Adjoining  this  town  is  Bijrtnu :  the  original  square 
mansion  was  built  by  Dr.  Bamber,  whose  daughter 
was  wife  of  SirCrispe  Gascoigne,  Lord  Mayor  of  Lon- 
don, whose  descendants  now  hold  it.  The  south  front 
of  this  house  commands  a  charming  view  of  the 
Thames,  nearly  to  Oravesend,  the  Kent  and  Surrey 
hills,  &c. 

Westbury,  on  the  east  side  of  Bifron's  Park,  has  alsp 
the  same  enchanting  prospects. 

Eoitlntfy.'^-Ahout  a  mile  to  the  east  of  this  town  is  a 
large  brick  building  with  battlements.  On  one  of  the 
door-locks  was  the  date  of  1536.  The  many  narrow 
and  long  galleries,  with  the  grotesque  paintings  here;, 
form  a  very  curious  contrast  to  the  works  of  modem 
times. 

Adjoining  to  Barking  is  the  parish  of  Dagenham, 
remarkable  for  various  inundations  of  the  Thames. 


S30  WALKS  TRftOUGR   LONDOK. 

Bell  House,  on  the  way  to  Purfleet,  has  all  the 
feUtures  of  a  baronial  mansion^  with  battlements,  turrets, 
and  small  windows.  Some  of  the  windows  are  or- 
namented with  stained  glass,  bearing  the  arms  and 
crests  of  the  Lennard  and  Dacre  families.  Here  are 
also  some  raluable  paintings,  and  curious  drawings  of 
ancient  seats,  particularly  of  Richmond  and  Green- 
wich palaces. 

Puffteet,  nineteen  miles  from  London,  has  a  public 
magazine  for  gunpowder,  deposited  in  detached  build- 
ings that  are  all  bomb-proof;  so  that  an  accident  to 
one  would  not  affect  the  others.  Here  are  also  some 
extensive  lime  works ;  and,  at  the  bottom  of  one  of 
these  pits,  the  father  of  the  late  Samuel  Whitbread,  Esq. 
proprietor  of  Purfleet,  built  a  chapel  for  the  accom- 
modation of  the  inhabitants. 

Grays  Thurrock  is  about  twenty-five  miles  from 
London,  on  the  Essex  coast. 

Belmont  Castle,  one  mile  from  hence,  was  the  pro- 
perty and  residence  of  the  late  Zachariah  Button,  Esq. 
who  finished  it  in  a  costly  style  of  Gothic  architecture. 
From  the  round  tower  here  are  the  most  delightful 
prospects  of  the  Thames  and  the  shipping  for  many 
miles,  with  the  rich  Kentish  enclosures  to  the  hills 
beyond  the  great  Dover  road. 

Tihury  Fort,  in  the  parish  of  West  Tilbury,  opposite 
Gravesend,  is  a  regular  fortification.  The  bastions 
here  are  the  largest  of  any  foil  in  England. 

Hence  returning  to  Stratford  and  Bow-Bridge,  con- 
cludes the  circuit  through  a  part  of  Essex. 


mu'2S^  .^ 


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«.«.•■       .'    .'      Ti  •     •        I  ,       !'  ' 


1  1.  ^ 


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X^  '■ 


WAIKS  THKOUGH   LOllDON.  331 


WALK  IV. 

MiU  End,  The  Jewiah  Hospitals,  Siepmy,  Worcester^ 
House,  Poplar,  The  Docks,  Hackney,  Kingsland,  The 
City-Road,  Islington,  Muswell-Hill,  Tottenham,  Ed- 
monton, Southgnte,  Brockley-HiU,  Cashiobury,  Edg^ 
ware,  Hampatend,  Kilbum,  Paddington,  Bayswaier, 
Uxbridge,  Hampton- Court,  Twickenham,  Strawberry*' 
Hill,  Hounslow,  hleworth,  Sion-House,  Chiswick, 
FulJiom,  Chelsea,  Kniglttshridge,  Extremities  of  Lon^ 
don.  The  Thames,  the  Pools,  Wapping,  Greenwich, 
Woolwich,  Gravesendy  Sfc. 

Our  account  of  what  is  remarkable  in  Middlesex, 
commences  at  Mile  End,  in  which  hamkt  are  a  number 
<5f  almshouses,  particutarly  those  of  the  Trinity*  House, 
and  those  called  Bancrofts;  the  latter  occupies  three 
sides  of  a  spacious  quadrangle,  with  a  Chapel  and  a 
School. 

Adjoining  to  these  almshouses  are  three  cemeteries, 
belonging  to  the  Portuguese  and  Dutch  Jews.  And 
bere,  also,  the  former  have  a  neat  and  commodious 
hospital,  for  sick  and  diseased  poor,  and  for  lying-in 
women,  at  Mile  End.  This  establishment  first  took  place 
in  1748  :  the  house  contains  forty  beds.  Adjoining  is 
an  almshouse^  for  twelve  aged  poor,  and  the  whole  is 
supported  solely  by  the  Jewish  community.  A  much 
more  recent  erection  about  1807,  called  The  Jews 
Hospital,  in  Mile  End  Road,  for  Aged  Poor,  and  the 
Education  and  employment  of  Youth,  was  set  on  foot  for 
the  benefit  of  German  and  Polish  Jews,  and  receives 
the  contributions  of  Christians,  **  who  have  not  the 
least  idea  of  con?erting  these  people  to  the  doctrines 


332  WALKS   THBOUGH   LONDON. 

of  Christianity ;  but  merely  to  do  good  to  the  neces- 
sitious  Jew  in  the  present  life*  as  a  man  and  a  brother, 
without  forcing  or  imposing  any  conditions  upon  him 
as  to  his  belief,  and  without  the  least  interference  with 
his  religious  opinions/'  A  handsome  synagogue  has 
been  erected,  in  the  interior  of  this  edifice,  which 
having  been  enlarged,  is  to  be  rendered  uniform  by 
extending  the  present  front,  in  preference  tp  additional 
wings.  In  this,  as  well  as  the  other  Jewish  Synagogues, 
different  galleries,  &c.  are  appropriated  to  each  of  the 
sexes. 

We  now  proceed  to  Stepney,  a  very  ancient  village 
near  London,  as,  in  Stow's  Annals,  it  is  stated,  that,  in 
1299,  a  parliament  was  held  at  the  house  of  Henry 
Wallies,  Mayor  of  London ;  and  here  Edward  the  First 
confirmed  the  charter  of  liberties. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  relics  of  the  manor- 
houses,  dependant  upon  the  greater  manors  of  Stepney, 
is  the  stately  gateway,  of  very  fine  brick  work,  on 
Stepney  Green,  on  the  right  hand  proceeding  from 
Whitechapel  to  Stepney  Church-yard.  This  is  all  that 
remains  of  Worcester-House,  occupied,  during  the  reigns 
of  Charles  the  First  and  Second,  by  the  Marquis  of 
Worcester,  though  others  think  it  is  the  original 
gateway  of  Sir  Henry  Colet's  house.  Lord  Mayor  of 
London,  and  then  called,  by  way  of  eminence,  '*  The 
Great  Place,"  and  supposed  more  probable,  as  the 
Marquis's  residence  was  only  the  fourth  part  of  the 
original  dwelling;  one  part  was  also  held  by  the  Rev. 
Matthew  Mead.  This  gateway  is  upon  a  line  with  a 
wooden  edifice,  lately  called,  the  Spring  Garden  Coffee* 
House,  said  also  to  have  been  Sir  Henry's  mansion: 
the  brick  gateway,  however,  is  not  likely  to  have  been 
prior  to  Henry  the  Seventh's  time,  when  the  use  of 
brick,  in  large  mansions,  began  to  be  generaUy  substi- 
tuted for  stone. 


{  TIL     Nhi^^ 


/  '  '  -If  I 


WALKS  THVOUGR  LONDON. 


333 


Coki-Place,  Id  White  Hone-Street/  formerly  be- 
longed to  Dr.  John  Colet,  Dean  of  St.  Paurs^  founder 
of  St  Paul's  School,  and  only  son  of  Sir  Henry  Colet 

Stepney  Church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Dunstan  and  All 
Saints,  and  bears  a  resemblance  to  the  architecture 
which  prevailed  in  the  fourteenth  century.  It  is  a 
large  Gothic  structure,  consisting  of  a  chancel,  a  nave, 
and  two  aisles.  At  the  west  end  is  a  plain  square  tower, 
containing  a  ring  of  ten  bells.  During  one  of  the  late 
reparations,  this  Church  was  deprived  of  its  old  Gothic 
porch  before  the  west  door,  though  the  interior  of  the 
church  was  considerably  embellished :  of  its  curious 
font,  the  annexed  wood-cut  is  a  representation. 


On  the  outside  of  the  portico,  on  the  north  side  of 
the  church,  the  following  inscription,  on  a  stone,  in 
the  wall,  long  attracted  considerable  notice* 


Of  Carthage  great  I  was  a  stone, 
O !  moitalt,  read,  with  pity. 

Time  consamei  all,  it  sparetb  none, 
Man^  moantaiOy  town^  nor  citj, 


WAtKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  335 

of  Dalaioa  Lane.  Thig  mansion  had  been  the  Blue 
Post  Tavemp  but  was  afterwards  let  out  in  tenementas 
it  was  a  brick  building,  and  contained  a  quadrangular 
court.  Since  that  period  a  tower  and  cupola  have 
been  added  to  the  new  church.  The  large  room  at 
the  Mermaid,  in  this  town,  is  generally-  the  place  of 
meeting  for  the  Freeholders  of  Middlesex,  and  is  occa* 
sioaally  hired  for  theatrical  recitations,  and  other 
polite  amusements.  The  new  church  here  contains  a 
few  ancient  nM>auments,  transferred  from  the  old  one, 
of  which  the  tower  akxie  remains  standing.  Here,. as 
probably  in  many  other  places,  most  of  the  ancient 
bouses  have  been  newly  fronted,  and  many  of  them 
wholly  taken  down,  as  being  too  expensive  for  ordinary 
tenants.  The  materials  of  many  of  these,  as  Barbours« 
Boarn,  &c.  hare  served  to  construct  three  or  four^ood 
modem  houses  upon  their  site.  An  exception  to  thisy. 
however,  has  occurred  at  Clapton,  where,  upon  the 
site  of  the  old  house  with  wooden  cloisters,  and 
oircular  chimnies,  a  capacious  new  edifice  has  arisen 
from  its  ruins:  this  hamlet  gave  birth  to  the  bene* 
vdent  Howard. 

At  Kingsland  stood  an  ancient  hospital  for  lepers^ 
called  Le  Lokes ;  it  was  long  an  appendage  to  Bartho* 
lomew's  Hospital,  in  London.  The  old  chapel  near  the 
turnpike  is  still  remaining.  Baums^  at  the  bottom  of 
Hoxton,  and  the  extremity  of  Hackney  pariah,  wa& 
the  residence  of  Sir  George  Whitmore,  a  great  suflferer 
for  his  attachment  to  Charles  the  First :  it  is  now  a  re- 
ceptacle fior  Lunatics. 

The  Cit^'Roadt  which  forms  a  connection  writh  tb^ 
north-west  parts  of  the  city,  is  the  next  object  of 
notice,  and  thist  extends  as  fac  as  Paddington. 

On  the  way  we  pass  While  Conduit-Housej,  Peti/ojt* 
vUkp  and  Somera-Tpwn :  the  two  kUer,  are  larger  tbao, 
many  mat k£t  towna. 
From  Wngi<m  these  ace  the  most  pkasing  prospects 


336  WALKS  THROUGH    LONDOIT. 

Imaginable;  the  city  of  London*  with  most  of  iU 
public  edifices  on  one  side,  together  with  Marybone* 
Pfeddington,  Hampstead,  Higbgate,  Kentish  Town, 
and  part  of  Homsey,  to  Muswell  HtH  on  the  other. 

At  the  noilh  end  of  Islington,  is  a  noble  row  of 
houses,  cilled  Highbufy'Piaee.  Higher  still  is  Hi^ 
imry'Terrace,  commanding  a  beautiful  prospect. 

Cananbury-Hovse  is  situated  on  an  eminence,  half 
a  mile  to  the  north-east  of  Islington  Church,  and 
is  supposed  to  hare  been  a  mansion  for  the  prior  of 
St.  Bartholomew,  in  West-Smithfield. 

From  MuMwtlUHiU,  through  Stoke  Newington,  and 
orer  Stamford-Hill,  to  Tottenham,  is  a  pleasant  excur- 
sion. The  History  of  Tottenham  Church  informs  us, 
that  it  was  bestowed  by  David  Bruce,  King  of  Scotland, 
on  the  canons  of  the  Holy  Trinity  in  London.  Tot- 
tenham High'Cross,  near  this  town,  though  frequently 
repaired,  is  still  a  fine  memorial  of  antiquity. 

Edmonton  is  principally  known  at  present  by  its 
Minual  fair,  in  the  month  of  September.  The  church 
dediea.ted  to  Att  Saints,  is  a  large  and  lofty  structure. 

Southgaie  is  a  hamlet  to  the  parish  of  Edmonton, 
eight  miles  from  London,  and  contains  several  hand- 
some seats. 

Returning  to  the  westward,  and  passing  BtockUy 
mU,  we  observe  an  Obelisk,  with  Latin  inscriptions, 
of  the  first  of  whidi  the  following  is  a  translation : 

^*  This  Obelisk  marks  the  mid-way  between  London, 
formerly  Trinovantum,  and  Verulamium,  the  chief 
abode  of  the  €;Bsiit,  now  the  City  of  St.  Alban." 

The  next  infers,  that  north  of  this  spot,  near  the  town 
of  Caswallan,  was  situated  the  wood  once  known  by  the 
name  of  Bwrgha ;  and  on  the  east,  it  is  expressed,  that 
near  this  place  a  town  formerly  sood,  strongly  fortified 
by  art  and  nature,  belonging  to  the  SiidUmi,  who  under 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  337 

their  general  Casmellan,  defeated  the  Romans.  The 
west  front  is  said  to  face  the  ancient  residence  of  the 
Castii,  now  Caaiobury, 

Edgeware  is  eight  miles  from  London,  on  the  road 
to  St.  Alhans,  Aylesbury,  &c.  The  stillness  of  this 
place  was  considerably  relieved  by  a  kind  of  fair  held 
here,  in  August  1816,  when  it  was  observed,  that 
though  the  sale  of  horses  and  other  cattle,  was  ex* 
tremely  dull,  there  were,  however,  a  few  merry  souls 
present,  who  kept  the  game  alive ;  and  each  evening 
presented  a  series  of  humorous  amusements,  such  as 
wheeling  barrows  blindfolded  for  a  new  hat ;  jumping 
in  sacks  for  a  smock-frock;  grinning  through  horse 
collars  for  a  pair  of  new  shoes ;  and  climbing  a  lolly 
pole  for  a  shoulder  of  mutton;  which  afibrded  no 
inconsiderable  amusement  to  a  very  numerous  atten- 
dance of  the  respectable  fomilies  in  the  neighbourhood. 
This  was  to  be  the  prize  of  him  who  first  reached  it. 
Many  attempted  this  apparently  easy  task,  but  on 
reaching  about  half  way  up  the  pole,  they  found  the 
upper  part  thickly  covered  with  cart-grease,  above 
which,  from  its  slippery  nature,  they  could  not  travel. 
This  discovery  suggested  to  an  artful  boy  a  means  of 
counteracting  this  impediment,  and  filling  the  tail  of 
his  smock-frock  with  sand,  after  various  attempts  he 
succeeded  in  completely  doing  away  the  effects  of  the 
grease  with  the  sand,  and  thereby  gaining  his  object, 
which  he  carried  off  amidst  the  cheers  of  the  crowd. 
This  is  the  diversion  which  in  France  is  known  by  the 
appellation  of  Man  de  Cocagne,  when  ducks  are  exhu 
bited  on  these  poles,  and  is  the  first  instance  of  its 
introduction  here. 

Harrow  on  the  Hill  is  ten  miles  from  London,  and 
is  so  called  on  account  of  its  situation,  and  is  further 
distinguished  by  its  lofky  ^ire.  The  Free  School,  at 
this  place,  ranks  among  the  first  British  seminaries  oC 
learning. 


^<• 


338  WALKS   THROUGH   LONDOIf. 

Crossing  the  Edgware  road,  we  approach  the  exlen* 
sive  and  pleasant  TiHage  of  Hendon  and  Mili-HtU. 

Gofdar's  Hill,  just  by,  was  the  residence  of  Dr. 
Akenstde,  author  of  the  "  Pleasures  of  Imaginattod/' 

Hamptttad  Heaift  also  exhibits  several  fine  views  of 
the  ttietropolib  and  Ifae  distant  country.  This  parish  » 
bounded  by  Hendon,  Finchley,  Pancras,  Wiisdoa,  and 
Paddiogton. 

The  Priofy  of  Kilbum  arose  from  a  hermitage,  built 
m  the  reign  of  Henry  the  First,  by  Godwin,  a  hennitj 
which  he  gave  to  three  nuns,  Emma,  Christina,  and 
GunhiMa,  and  this  afterwards  became  a  nuvnery ; 
but  though  no  remains  of  it  exist,  its  site  is  very  dis* 
cemable  in  Abbey  Field,  nearly  a4)acent  to  the  l\ea 
Gardens,  called  Kilburn  Wells. 

From  Paddington  we  proceed  to  Bayswater,  ooe 
mile  on  the  Uxbridge  road ;  and  through  Kensiogioa 
to  HoUand-HoUse,  the  ancient  mansion  of  the  Maaor 
of  Abbots,  Kcnnngton,  and  of  which  the  celebrated 
AddiM>n  became  po96e8Sed>  in  1716,  by  his  marriage 
with  the  Countess  Dowager  of  Warwick* 

The  Royal  Palace  of  Kensington,  the  next  object, 
is  a  large  irregular  edifiee  of  bricks  built  at  various 
tim^.  The  state  apartments  are  yery  noble,  and  e9t^ 
sist  of  a  suite  of  twelve  roottts^  The  fWst  ascent  ia  by 
the  great  staircase,  in  which  are  painted  balconiea. 
The  paintings  here,  in  thfe  different  apartmeiit|»  ara 
too  numerous  for  a  reoital  within  our  liaaits. 

Proceeding  to  Hamptm-Cadri,  the  royal  paliiee 
naturally  strikes  the  eye,  in  all  ita  magnificence.  We 
can  only  mention  that  this  structure  consists  of  three 
quadrangles ;  the  first  and  second  are  Gothic ;  but  in 
the  third  are  the  royal  apartments,  buUt.of  brick  and 
8tQoe»  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren«  by  order  of  William 
the  Third.  The  park  and  gardens,  on  which  the 
palace  now  stands,  are  three  mites  in  circumference. 

The  delightful  village  of  T\»ickenham,  ten  miles  and 


.1-1-  p.. 


l>' 


I  It 


'  •   .1'  .      I'U 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON.  389 

a  quarter  Trom  the  metropolis^  is  adorned  with  many 
beautiful  seats.  The  house  that  was  once  the  residence 
of  the  celebrated  Mrs^  Clive  adjoins  the  wood  belonging 
to  Strawberry  Hill,  the  admired  viUa  of  the  late  Earl 
of  Orford,  better  known  in  the  literary  world  as 
Horatio  Walpole ;  lately  that  of  Mrs,  Darner.  It  was 
first  built  by  the  Earl  of  Bradford's  coachman,  in  1698: 
itnoar  appears  in  the  Gothic  ^yl^  within  and  withool, 
according  to  several  modeb  of  cathedrak  in  difiecent 
parts  of  the  kingdom.  The  windows  also  are  oma* 
mented  with  stained  glass.  Great  taste  is  displayed  in 
theeiegant  embellisfamentsi  and  in  the  choice  collection 
^  pictures,  sculptures*  anliquities^  &c*  many  of  them 
pttrobased  from  seme  of  the  first,  cabinets  in  Europe* 
The  ^>proach  to  the  liouse  through  a  grove  of  lofty 
trees;  the  embattled  waU^  overgrown  with  ivy;  the 
spiM  pinnacles^  and  the  gkKmy  cast  of  the  buikUing, 
gtvtf  it  the  air  of  an*  ancient  abbey,  especially  on  enter* 
tng  the  gate«  where  a  small  oratory,  enclosed  with  iron 
raUs>  and  a  cloister  behind  it,  appears  in  the  fore  court. 

At  Twickenham  Park,  the  seat  of  Lord  Frederick 
Caveiidish,  the  great  Lord  Bacon  spent  much  of  the 
early  part  of  his  life  ;<  and  this  place  was  till  lately 
the  residence  of  the  French  Duke  oi  Orleans. 

After  crossing  the  road  to  HounlloiT,  we  return  by 
l9iewaiih,  a  pleasant  viUage  on  the  bank  of  the  Thames, 
eight  miles  and  alialf  from  Hyde«Park  Corner.  This 
ncigbbourbood  abounds  with iliarket, gardeners. 

Returning  to  the  great  roadi  the  first  object  of  atten- 
tion! is  Sion-House,  ond  of  the  seats  of  the  Duke  of 
N€rt}]limberlatid>  a  large  venerable  majestic  structure, 
bttih  df '  white  stobe,  in  the.  form  of  a  hdlow  square^ 
so  that  it  has  four  cKtet nal  and  as  many  internal  fronts, 
the  latter  of  which  surcound  a  square  court  in  the 
Bftiddlff.  The  roof  is  surrounded  with  indented  battle- 
ments ;  and  upon  every  one  of  its  four  outward  angles 
kiaiqiiare  turrbt»ibt  rooffd,.>and  embattled  like  the 


340  WALKS   THEOUGH   LONl>0!r. 

Other  parU  of  the  building.  The  house  is  three  stories 
high ;  and  the  east  front,  which  faces  the  Thames,  is 
supported  by  arches,  forming  a  fine  piazza. 

Old  and  New  Brentford  present  very  little  that  is 
interesting  to  a  tourist  for  pleasure. 

Proceeding  to  Chiswick,  Grove-House,  the  occa- 
aiooal  residence  of  his  grace  the  Duke  of  Devonshire, 
bulk  by  the  Earl  of  Burlington,  in  the  reign  of  Queen 
Anne,  has  all  the  attributes  of  a  princely  dwelling,  and  is 
a  model  of  taste,  though  not  without  faults,  such  as  doors 
misplaced,  chimneys  between  windows,  &c.  The 
church  of  Chiswick,  which  stands  near  the  Thames, 
is  supposed  to  have  been  built  about  the  beginning  of 
the  fifteenth  century.  The  church-yard  contains  the 
remains  of  Hogarth  and  some  elegant  epitaphs,  written 
by  the  late  Mr.  Arthur  Murphy. 

Acljoining  to  Chiswick  is  Hammersmith,  four  miles 
from  London,  and  a  nunnery  which  took  its  name  from 
a  Mrs.  Bedingfield  and  another  lady  setting  up  a 
boarding-school  for  young  ladies  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
persuasion,  and  from  their  gradual  introduction  of  the 
observance  of  monastic  rules.  Here  is  a  chapel,  and 
another  also  of  the  same  persuasion  at  Brook  Green, 
with  a  Roman  Catholic  Charity-School. 

Brandenburgh-House  is  a  celebrated  villa,  seated  on 
the  Thames  at  Hammersmith,  and  was  long  the  resi* 
dence  of  the  Margravine  of  Anspach. 

Parson's  Green,  Walham  Green,  and  jP«Mam,  are 
remarkably  pleasant ;  at  the  latter  is  a  bridge  commu- 
nicating with  Putney.  The  bishops  of  London  have 
had  a  palace  at  Fulham  from  a  very  early  period ;  but 
it  has  received  many  repairs  since  the  time  of  Henry 
the  Seventh:  the  gardens  are  curiously  laid  out,  and 
are  very  extensive.  Fulham,  like  its  neighbouring 
districts,  abounds  in  charitable  foundations  of  various 
kinds. 

Coming  to  Chdsea,  the  Hospitd  is  the  first  object  of 


V 

f 

» 


\^e-:. 


WALKS  THROUGH   LONDON.  841 

the  attention  of  visitors.  This  edifice  was  begun  in 
1683^  but  not  completed  till  1690,  by  Sir  Christopber 
Wren.  Its  general  appearance  is  plain«  yet  not  inele* 
gant,  as  the  architect  seems  to  have  avoided  all  super- 
fluous ornament,  in  order  tosave  expense.  The  structure 
isof  elegant  brick-work;  the  quoins,  cornices,  pediments, 
are  of  free-stone.  The  chapel  and  the  ball  are  well  dis- 
posed ;  the  colonade  and  portico,  towards  the  river,  are 
handsome  and  well  proportioned,  and  afibrd  a  comfort- 
able sheltered  walk,  and  communication  between  the  two 
wings  for  the  pensioners  in  wet  weather.  The  hospital 
consists  of  three  courts ;  the  principal  one  is  open  to 
the  south  side.  In  the  centre  is  a  bronze  statue  of  ^the 
royal  founder,  Charles  the  Second,  in  a  Roman  habit. 
The  south  side  is  also  ornamented  with  a  handsome 
portico  of  the  Doric  order,  and  a  colonade  continued 
along  the  whole  of  it :  this  side  is  divided  into  a  chapel, 
a  hall,  and,  in  the  centre,  a  large  vestibule,  terminated 
by  a  cupola  of  considerable  height.  On  eacb  side  of 
the  chapel  are  the  pews  for  the  various  officers  of  the 
house ;  tbe  pensioners  sit  in  the  middle  on  benches. 
The  north  front  is  handsome  and  extensive ;  and  about 
fourteen  acres  of  ground,  opposite  to  it,,  forms  an 
enclosure  of  about  fourteen  acres,  planted  witib  ave- 
nues of  limes  and  horse-chesnuts.  The  principal 
grand  entrance  is  by  two  iron  gates  of  elegant  work- 
manship and  great  height,  ornamented  on  each  side  by 
lofty  stone  pillars,  surrounded  with  military  trophies. 
This  entrance  is  also  ornamented  with  two  handsome 
porters'  lodges.  In  the  burial-place,  to  the  east  of  the 
hospital,  are  several  tombs  and  monuments  in  memory 
of  the  governors,  lieutenant-governors,  and  other  of* 
fleers  of  the  establishment. 

J7ie  Royal  MilUaiy  Asylum,  for  the  children  of  the 
soldiers  of  the  regular  army,  is  near  the  Royal  Hospital, 
and  a4i<Mning  the  King's  Road.  This  .building  is 
environed  on  all  sides  with  high  walls,  and  a  handsome 


MS  WMJLS  TBBOUOH   LOllItfMI* 

iron  rmiUof  befbre  tlie  grand  fironU  This  edifice,  buih 
ttf  brick,  formk  tbr^ee  tides  of  «.  quadrangle^  witb.an 
•dJegani  stbne  bdosUade«  The  centre  of  the  wettern 
^tort  has  a  noble  portico  of  the  jDoric  order,  and  a 
^eM'proportioncd  pcdinieni,  consisting  of  four  im- 
n^ense  columns/  supporting  a  large .  pediment ; .  on  ^the 
frieze  of  which  ia  inaorlbedn^^  The  Royal  Military 
Asyfaim  for  theChiklBen  of  the  SoUien  of  the  Regular 
-Army/'  Over  this  inscription  are  the  royal  arms.  Here 
^aM'aeten  hundred  boya^and  three  hundred  giils;  the 
l»oya  wear  red  jackets^  blue  breeches,  Sua.  and  4he  giris 
Ted  gowns,  bine-  petticoats;  straw  bonnets,  «4iite 
^aprons,  ix.  *  . 

•  Passing  from.  Sloane-Street,  we  come  into  the 
gneat  western  road;  and,  by  the  Cannon  Brewery, 
•arrive  at  J&i^lsM^gv.  The  chapel  here  is  dedicated 
to  the  Holy  Trinit3%  and  originally  belonged  to  a 
•Laomr  House; 

Ifyde  Park  is  on  ^e  south  side  of  Knightsbridge, 
ahd'iias  long  been  a  ikvourlte  place  fbr  taking  the  air, 
-exfaibiting  6ne  coachai,  ^fine  horaes,  and  expert  borw- 
xnaMhip^;  it  Is  also  the  tbaatre.  of  military  evolutions 
in  the  review  of  the  tn>ops« 

•  in  Gfosvenar^Piace  i*the-  Look  Hospital  Ibr  syphilitic 
'maladies.  Near  Hyie^Park  Cornerv  on  the  south  side 
-of  the  road,  stands  St.  Georgfe's  Hospital,  for  patients 
^fid  complaints  ^  avery  de^n^tion;.  a  very  neat, 
•though  rather  a  plain  'building.  •  The  j^nd  western 
entrance  here  into  the  metropolis  is  marked  by  an 
ascent  fVom  Knightsbridge  to  the*  turnpike  at  Hyde- 
Park  Comer,  which  at  night  exhibits. an  uacommcm 
degfree  of  lustre  fWmi  the  aeveral  lamps,  at  once  uae- 
ful  and  ornamental. 

The  road  into  Piccadilly  ii  bounded  on  the  north 
and  south  sides  by  stately  dwellings,  and  the  railing  of 
St.  James's  Park,  which,  contrasted  by  the  fine  land- 
•cape  intervening  between  this  park  and  the  Surrey 


WALKS  THROUGH   LOKD0N.  343 

faiHs,  form  a  tottt  entemhle  equaNy  agreeable  and  in- 
teresting. Among  these  dwellings  is  tbe  PuUeney  Hoid, 
a  handsome  stone  edifice,  with  a  balustrade  and  bal- 
cony before  it«  from  which  the  Emperor  of  Russia 
.  shewed  himself  to  the  public  within  a  few  minutes  after 
bis  arrival  there,  on  the  6th  of  June,  1814. 

Being  compelled  to  be  thus  brief  in  our  fetches  ef 
the  Country  surrounding  the  metropolis,  we  shall  only 
remark  respecting  the  western  environs,  that  which 
way  soever  we  turn  ourselves,  there  arc  many  striking 
"beauties;  and  this  boundary,  especially  tovrards  tbe 
"Thames,  exhibits  the  appearance  of  a  continual  gaitiea, 
with  extensive  nurseries  of  trees  of  various  kinds;  while 
the  sides  of  the  roads  being  enHvened  by  meadows  and 
genteel  residences  of   every  description,  the  whole 
forms  a  picture  of  ease  and  happiness  highly  gratify- 
ing.    Respecting  the  north  side  of  the  metropolis,  it 
has  been  observed, ''  that  the  amphitheatre  on  that  side 
of  the  Thames  is  greatly  enhanced  in  beauty  by  a 
chain  of  hills; 'forming  a  second  amphitheatre  enclosing 
the  first,  of  which   Hampstead  and  Htghgate,  and 
Moswell  Hill,  are  the  most  prominent.    The  eastern 
and  western  extremities  aiibrd  the  prospect  of  a  level 
country,  stretching  thirty  miles  each  on  the  banks  of 
the  Thames ;  but  on  the  south  the  landscape  is  beauti- 
fully varied  to  a  considerable  line  of  extent,  including 
the  high  grounds  of  Richmond,  Wimbledon,  Epsom, 
"Norwood,  and  Blackheath.     The  eastern  boundary  is 
terminated  by  Shooter's  Hill,  Leith  Hill,  Box  Httl,  the 
Riegate  and  Wrotham  HiUs. 

The  most  picturesque  parts  of  the  county  of  Essex 
are  perhaps  Laingdon  Hills,  with  West  Lea,  in  the 
parish  of  Laingdon  and  Basildon,  in  the  road  from 
-Chelmsford  to  Tilbury  Fort,- twenty-two  miles  from 
London.  Tbe  ascent  on  the  north  Aide  is  easy ;  but  on 
the  south  and  south-west  the  traveller  is  astonished  at 
the  descent  before  him.    Of  this  Mr.YouBg,  in  his 


344  WALKS   TH BOUGH   LONDON. 

Six  Weeks  Tour,  says,  "  Such  a  prodigious  vs^ley 
every  where  painted  with  the  finest  verdure,  inter- 
sected with  hedges  and  woods^  appears  beneath  you, 
that  it  is  past  description.  Nothing  can  exceed  it 
unless  that  which  Hannibal  exhibited  to  his  discon- 
solate troops  when  he  bid  them  behold  the  glories  of 
the  Italian  plains !'' 

Viewing  London  nearer  its  eastern  extremity,  it  has 
been  observed,  *'  that  the  Custom- House,  the  Tower, 
and  the  Docks,  only  form  a  part  of  that  grand  eoyp 
d*ail,  which  in  a  manner  extends  from  Cuckold's 
Point  on  the  Kentish,  and  Perry's  Wharf  on  the  Essex 
aide  of  the  river.  From  hence  the  passenger,  directing 
bis  views  down  the  Thames,  it  may  seem  like  sailing  in 
the  midst  of  a  vast  inland  lake,  adorned  with  shipping 
of  all  si^es,  and  of  the  construction  of  almost  every 
nation  in  the  known  world.  The  lofty  buildings  in 
the  King's  Yard  at  Deptford,  and  the  more  magni- 
ficent view  of  Greenwich  Hospital,  screen  it  on  one 
side ;  while,  on  the  other,  the  view  is  interrupted  by 
the  Isle  of  Dogs.  In  the  Upper  Pool,  about  a  mile  and 
a  half  towards  Wapping,  Dawson's  Brewhouse,  and 
Mr.  Mellish's  slaughter-houses,  are  the  first  objects 
of  attention  with  a  stranger.  On  the  opposite  side 
lies  Rotherhithe.  Then  entering  the  Lower  Pool, 
we  have  been  in  the  habit  of  finding  ourselves  among 
such  a  number  of  ships  that  they  resembled  a  labyrinth. 
At  times,  when  it  is  customary  to  display  their  diffe- 
rent colours,  these  vessels  exhibit  a  very  gay  appear- 
ance. 

*  Limehouse  Reach  used  to  be  distinguished  by  several 
wind-mills,  on  the  right  hand  shore  of  the  Isle  of  Dogs. 
Opposite  to  these  are  the  Victualling  Office  and  the 
Red  House  at  Deptford^  the  latter  built  of  red  brick, 
from  whence  it  derived  its  name. 

Contemplating  the  riches  of  the  Thames,  an  elegant 
poet  exclaims : 


WALKS  THROUGH  LONDON*  345 

And  Me !  hy  fiiir  Aogntta's  rtatcly  towers, 
Mlacid  Tbomety  bit  placid  carrent  poors : 
To  pile  her  marU  coateoding  oat  ions  meet. 
The  world's  prodactioos  offering  at  ber  feet. 
Whatever  of  wealth  in  various  regions  shines. 
Glows  in  their  sands,  or  lurks  beneath  tbeir  mines ; 
Whate'er  from  boanteons  nature  men  receire, 
Whaterer  toil  can  rear,  or  art  can  weare ; 
Her  princely  merchants  bear  from  every  zone. 
Their  country's  stores  increasing  with  tbeir  own. 

Greenwich  Beach  lies  io  a  semi-circle.  Approaching 
this  place,  on  our  right  hand,  we  pass  a  ship,  in  which 
boys  are  placed  by  the  Marine  Society,  who  have  been 
found  wandering  about  the  strefets  of  London,  or  are 
otherwise  unprovided  for. 

Blackwall  Reach  is  the  next  arrival.  On  the  left,  we 
pass  the  Folly  House  Tea  Garden,  behind  which  the 
new  docks  appear.  This  tract,  called  the  Isle  qfDogs, 
as  already  mentioned  in  page  334,  is  a  kind  of  penia- 
sula;  but  a  canal  cut  across  it  forms  a  passage  for 
shipping,  and  enables  them  to  avoid  the  circuitous 
and  inconvenient  route  round  the  point.  Here  are 
also  the  Wet  Docks,  belonging  to  J.  Perry,  Esq.  and 
a  building,  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  height, 
with  a  machine  for  masting  and  dismasting  of  ships. 

Woolwich  is  the  next  object  of  attention.  Persons 
who  wish  to  see  the  hulks,  or  the  vessels  moored  off 
Woolwich,  containing  several  hundred  convicts,  many 
of  whom  have  hitherto  been  annually  senk  to  New 
South  Wales,  can  only  have  an  opportunity  of  doing 
this  by  taking  a  boat  at  Billingsgate  or  the  Tower. — 
The  vessels  on  board  which  these  convicts  are  confined, 
are  easily  distinguished,  as  they  are  all  dismasted. 
The  Royal  Artillery  Barracks  lately  erected,  stand 
about  two-thirds  of  a  mile  nearer  the  Thames  than  the 
Royal  Military  Academy,  and  also  about  one  hundred 
feet  above  the  high-water  mark  in  the  river.    The 


946  WALKS  THftOVGB   LOIII>OH. 

length  of  the  south  front  is  tboiit  thiee  hundred  and 
fifty  yards ;  this  forms  one  side  of  an  extensive  qua- 
drangle^ of  which  the  east  front  commands  all  the  rich 
scenery  of  Shooter's  Hill.  The  artillery  quartered 
here  form  a  fluctuating  body  of  from  two  to  three 
thousand  men.  Close  lo  the  Barrack-field  is  some  fine 
broken  groundenclosed,  and  called  the  Rcpositoiy,  under 
the  superintendance  of  the  late  General  Sir  William 
Congreve.  In  the  summer  season,  between  April  and 
November^  a  great  variety  of  military  operations  and 
evolutions  are  to  be  seen  at  Woolwich. 

Woolwich  Reach  immediately  succeeds  Bugsby's 
Hole :  entering  this  Reach  the  bulks  before-mentioned 
appear,  on  board  of  which  the  transports  are  stationed. 
Sometimes  the  convicts  are  employed  in  work  on  shore 
in  the  Warren  or  Gun-park,  and  at  other  times  in 
clearing  the  sand  banks. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  called  the  Gallions, 
there  is  a  house  (once  a  public-house)  called  in  derision, 
the  Devil's  House.  Barking  Reach  succeeds,  on  a 
sand  at  the  entrance  of  which  lies  a  buoy,  as  a  direc- 
tion to  avoid  the  wreck  of  the  Grampus  man  of  war. 
Near  the  verge  of  the  river  are  three  small  magazines, 
in  which  powder  of  the  Dartford  manufacture  b 
deposited:  nearly  opposite  these  is  a  small  white 
thatched  house,  called  Dagenham  Breach  House,  in 
commemoration  of  a  large  Breach  made  here  by  the 
Thames,  at  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century ; 
behind  which  is  a  large  pool,  famous  for  fishing  by 
gendomen  subscribers.  Another  turning  of  the  river 
is  called  the  Rands,  with  the  village  of  Erith  on  one 
side,  and  Purfleet  on  the  other.  On  the  Essex  side 
stands  a  small  house,  called  Cold  Harbour,  and  a  mile 
from  this,  a  public-house  with  a  ferry,  adjoining  a 
creek  that  runs  up  to  the  village  of  Rainham«  in 
Essex ;  whence  the  spire  of  that  church  may  now  be 
seen. 


WALKS  THROUGH   LONDON.  847 

Lot^  Reach  is  about  four  miles  in  length,  contain- 
ing Greenhithe;  the  church  and  village,  when  the 
trees  are  in  verdure,  appearing  au  in  an  orchard, 
aflbrds  one  of  the  most  luxuriant  views  imaginable. 
iFidlers  Reach  and  Northfleet  Hope,  are  the  names 
by  which  the  river  is  distinguished  between  Long 
Reach  and  Gravesend  Reach ;  at  the  extremity  of  whieh 
the  church  of  West  Tilbury  presente  itself  at  the 
end  of  a  green,  on  a  rising  ground.  Gad's  Hill,  often 
mentioned  by  Shakspeare  in  his  plays,  may  be  seen 
here.  On  the  right  hand,  Higham  church  appears. 
Lastly  we  enter  Gravesend  Reach,  which  forms  a 
noble  sight  with  the  ships  and  vessels  generally  found 
at  anchor,  whilst  Kent  and  Essex,  on  each  side,  ex- 
hibit every  symptom  of  safety  and  prosperity.  As 
Gravesend  is  generally  the  extremity  of  most  of  the 
excursions  made  by  water  from  London,  those  fashion- 
mble  ones  to  Margate,  &c.  excepted,  we  shall  here 
leave  our  readers,  referring  them  to  the  Picture  of 
Margate,  in  which  the  Water  Itinerary  will  afford 
them  a  companion  and  guide  to  the  knowledge  of  al- 
most every  object  which  presents  itself  upon  the  river 
between  London  Bridge  and  the  Wore. 


848  WALKS  THROUGH    tONOON* 


A  Review  of  the  most  recent  and  projected 
Improvements  in  and  about  the  Metro- 
polis, with  observations  on  the  Ancient 
and  Modem  state  of  Architecture  in  Eng- 
land. 


In  order  to  point  out  the  improvements  which  hare 
grown  with  the  growth,  and  strengthened  with  the 
strength  of  this  great  city,  it  may  only  be  necessary  to 
refer  to  Mr.  Lysons,  who  has  furnished  us  with  a 
minute  account  of  the  progress  of  the  new  buildings, 
particularly  in  the  parish  of  Mary  bone.  Mary  bone 
was  once  a  small  village^  nearly  a  mile  from  any 
part  of  the  metropolis.  In  1717,  or  the  next  year, 
the  ground  was  first  laid  out  for  Cavendish-Square,  the 
circle  in  the  centre  inclosed  and  surrounded  with  a 
parapet  wall  and  palisades.  The  Duke  of  Chandos, 
then  Earl  of  Carnarvon,  Lord  Harcourt,  and  Lord 
Bingley  were  among  the  first  that  took  ground  to  build 
here,  and  the  rest  was  let  to  builders,  who,  though 
checked  by  the  failure  of  the  Sooth  Sea  scheme,  were 
induced  to  go  on  by  the  proposal  for  building  a  chapel 
and  a  market :  Mr.  Gibbs  furnished  the  design,  and 
they  were  both  finished  in  1724.  The  row  of  houses 
on  the  north  side  of  Tybourn  Road  was  completed  in 
1729,  and  it  was  then  called  Osford-Street.  Soon  after, 
the  ground  was  laid  out  for  a  number  of  good  streets, 
which  have  increased  on  the  north  and  the  west  of 


WALKS  THBOUGH  LONDON.  S49 

Oxford-Street,  to  Paddington  and  PancraB  on  one  side, 
and  to  Edgware-Road  on  the  other. 

To  all  the  attracttonft  of  external  splendour,  it  is  not 
too  much  to  say  that  every  internal  convenience  has 
Jieen  added. 

Turning  towards  Somers  Tovm,  we  come  to  an  entirely 
new  range  and  mass  of  huildings,  called  Judd-Street, 
Tonhridge-Place,  &c.  Here  is  a  new  Chapel  for  Cal- 
vinistic  Dissenters ;  and  the  whole  neighbourhood  of 
Tottenham  Court  Road,  and  from  thence  to  the  Regent'^ 
Park  and  Paddington,  presents  a  new  and  increasing 
suburb  to  the  city.  On  the  western  side  of  Tottenham 
Court  Road,  nearly  in  the  angle  formed  by  the  end  of 
this,  and  part  of  the  new  road,  is  FUzToy •Square,  not 
yet  completed.  The  houses  are  faced  with  stone,  and 
have  a  greater  proportion  of  architectural  embeltish- 
roents  than  most  others  in  the  metropolis :  they  were 
designed  by  the  Messrs.  Adams. 

In  this  neighbourhood,  in  Tottenham -Street,  Tot- 
tenham Court  Road,  is  the  Regency  Theatre,  distin- 
guished by  its  elegant  portico,  formed  by  a  range  of 
square  stone  pillars.  The  whole  extent  of  this  edifice, 
which  appears  in  the  street,  the  entrance  excepted,  is 
blank,  but  embellished  with  pilasters,  &c.  At  present 
it  is  principally  used  for  astronomical  and  mechanical 
exhibitions,  and  thus  partakes  of  that  desertion  which 
has  more  or  less  aflfected  all  the  theatres  in  the  metro- 
polis since  the  late  peace. 

Near  this  spot,  in  the  court  before  the  house.  No.  178, 
in  Tottenham  Court  Road,  the  curious  may  still  be 
gratified  by  a  piece  of  sculpture,  being  the  representa- 
tion of  a  man  upon  a  pedestal,  in  a  sitting  position^ 
playing  upon  the  bag-pipes.  This  is  understood  to 
have  been  the  work  of  the  elder  Cibber,  at  a  time  when 
that  artist  resided  near  St.  Andrew^s  Church,  Hulbom. 
Pcrikmd-Place  is  one  of  the  finest  streets  in  Europe. 
It  was  intended  to  form  the  opening  to  the  new  street 


S50  WALKS  TRROUGB   LONDOIT. 

ufixtto  the  R^gaWs  Park  wad  Mary-la-bone  Park.  Tbe 
north  end  of  this  street  is  terminated  hy  an  iron  railing 
and  a  gate,  which  separated  it  from  a  fieU»  extending 
to  the  New  Road.    That  field  is  now  a  garden  and  a 
shrubbery,  enclosed  on  all  sides  by  handsome  railing, 
corresponding  with  that  which  encloses  the  Regent's 
Park  on  the  other  side  of  the  road.    The  new  part  of 
the  street  commences  with  a  crescent  on  each  side  of 
the  way,  which  is  not  finished,  and  the  works  ha?e  been 
•olong  in  this  half-built  state,  that  grass  has  grown  on 
tl^e  top  of  the  walk,  reaching,  in  some  places,  not  higher 
than,  the  kitchen  windows.    The  bou^  nearest  to  Port- 
land Place  are  entirely  raised  and  covered  in,   but 
since  the  peace,  are  fast  returning  to  their  pristine  mould, 
|M  the  wood  work  is  rapidly  decaying,  frpm  exposure  to 
the  weather :  the  fronts,  as  far  as  completed,  have  a 
very  neat  colonade  of  double  Ionic  pillars,  with  a  balus- 
trade and  a  balcony.    Many  of  the  houses  on  this  spot 
hafe  pediments ;  and  those  with  this  addition  face  each 
other  all  the  wt^y  on  both  sides  of  the  street :  th^  inter- 
mediate houses,  without  pediments  or  pilasters,  are 
Tuscan  or  Doric.    The  new  parish  church  of  Si,  M«ry 
h  "Bonnci,  near  this  spot,  now  completed,  and  oj>CDed 
for  divine  service,   is  beyond  all  doubt  one  of  tbe 
hapdsemiest  structures  of  the  kind.    The  north  front 
is  extremely;  rich  atid  elc^^t,  and  consists  of  a  noble 
portico  of  the  Cou^iosite  order, .  supported  by  eight 
rich  pillars,  and  two  pilasters, .  with  a  handsome  bains* 
trade,  extending  round  the  whole  of  .the  cfaurchf    The 
s^ple  is  of  exquisite  workmapship ;  a  square  rustic 
tower  supposts  a  beaatiful  cupola,  raised  on  Corinthian 
pillars,  on. the  ^pitajs  of  whi<;h.are  eight  angeli,  sup* 
porting  another  cupola :  .on  its  summit  is.  a  small  o^- 
yrorL  tower  and  vane.     Tbe .  inside  of  tbU  edifice  is 
superb.    The  roof  of  the  choreb  is  jubt  visible  fbove 
the  bulustrade :  the  body  i$  btrick>  covered  with  Roman 
cement  y  the  Meepk  and  portico  of  rtoile.    Hie  north- 


WALKS  THftOUGH   LONDOH*  S51 

:  and  ireit  corners  have  eack  two  composite  cbtumns 
aad  pilasters;  between  these  pilasters  are  niches,  and 
above  them  an  architrave  and  cornice. 

Mftry  la  Bonne  Church  was  consecrated,  in  the  year 
1817,  by  the  Bishop  of  London,  in  the  presence  of  a 
great  number  of  persons  of  distinction.  The  organ  is 
placed  at  the  back  of  the  altar,  and  in  the  centre  of  the 
oigan  is  an  open  arch,  in  which  is  placed  a  very  fine 
picture,  painted  by  Beqjamin  West,  Esq.  President  of 
the  Roysi  Academy  :  the  subiect  is,  the  Angel  of  the 
Lord  appearing  to  the  Shepherds. 

The  Regen^$  Park  is  very  extensive,  and  though  it  ia 
not  likely  to  receive  a  speedy  completion,  it  is  one  of 
the  greatest  Sunday  promenades  about  town.  An 
immense  sewer,  extending  from  hence  to  the  river 
Thames,  is  in  great  forwardness.  A  new  chapel,  at  die 
northern  extremity  of  this  park,  is  a  very  elegant  build* 
ing.  The  canal  adds  considerably  to  the  beauty  and 
verdure  of  this  delightful  place* 

With  the  showy  improvements,  or  rather,  the  altera- 
tiotis  that  were  intended  to  connect  the  communication 
between  Carlton  House  and  the  R^;ent's  Park,  some 
extravagant  ideas  were  evidently  connected;  "  Cirdmtsi 
were  to  be  made  where  the  new  connecting  street  was 
to  cross  Piccadilly  and  Oxford-Road."  The  reason 
given  for  which  by  Mr.  Nash,  the  surveyor,  was»  **  th^t 
it  would  avoid  the  sensation  of  passing  Oxford^Street, 
and  insensibly  unite  the  two  divisions  of  the  ci(y.'' 
The  given  estimate  of  the  expense  of  this  ibtedded 
street  was  300,000/. ;  but  there  was  no  doubt  Ihut  it 
woukl  cost  a  great  deal  mwre.  The  imperious  nciHss- 
sity  of  retrenchment,  howeverj  has  altered  this  plan, 
and  the  new  street  therefore  ia  to  be  no  farther  proceeded 
in  than  Piccadilly:  it  will  be  continued  BofsJbwith 
ftk^es  of  Ionic  cduknns  in  plaster,  corresponding  with 
those  in  the  square  opposite  Carlton  House.  Tftetwo 
lodgea  will  be  erected  on  the  east  and  west  of  the 


953  WALKS   THKOUGH    LONDOK. 

Regent's  Palace.  Tbe  screening  colooade  of  the  latter 
will  be  taken  down,  and  some  light  description  of  nil« 
ing  or  balustrade  be  substituted  in  its  place. 

On  the  15th  of  July  1816,  orders  were  positirelj 
issued  to  stop  tbe  improvements  north  of  Piccadilly. 
The  perspective  from  Carlton  House,  is  to  extend  only 
to  the  intended  crescent  in  Piccadilly.  St.  James's 
Market  and  the  houses  in  Jermyn-Street,  which  inter- 
sect  the  view,  are  to  be  removed.  The  new  United 
Service  Club  House  will  be  built  ob  an  extensive  scale. 

llie  name  of  Waterloo-place  has  been  given  to  the 
opening  in  front  of  Carlton  House.  The  buildings 
here  have  been  stuccoed,  instead  of  being  faced  with 
Bath  Stone,  and  are  already  of  the  shades  between 
white  and  black,  the  smoky,  and  the  dirty  grey- 
Whether  that  side  of  Pall -Mall  shall  be  a  good 
thoroughfare,  will  depend  upon  the  mode  of  pav- 
ing this  place.  To  afibrd  safety  to  walkers,  ic  has 
been  proposed,  that  the  foot  pavement  should  be  so 
continued  as  to  leave  a  space  for  carriages  not  wider 
than  the  breadth  of  Pall-MaU>  and  that  to  mark  the 
distinction  between  the  two  pavements,  lamps  should 
be  placed  on  stone  pedestals. 

It  is  still  understood  that  Oxford^Road  will  be  con- 
tinued as  far  as  Bayswater  Brook,  making  it  the  longest 
street  in  Europe.  When  tbe  new  Post  Office  is  iiniahed 
the  western  mails  are  to  go  direct  along  Holborn,  instead 
of  passing  Charing  Cross  and  Piccadilly ;  and  a  short 
ciit  is  also  to  be  made  into  the  other  western  road 
angular  from  Shepherds  Bush  to  Hammersmith. 

The  old  wall  of  Kensington  Gardens  on  the  Bays- 
water  Road,  has  lately  been  repaired  and  lighted,  the 
ditches  drained,  and  an  open  gateway  designed  to 
\ie  made,  opposite  the  broad  walk  in  Kensington  Gar- 
dens, to  give  passengers  a  slight  view  of  the  beanliiiil 
grounds. 

But  the  absolute  amelioration  of  a  whole  neighbour- 


WALKS  THftOUOH   LONDON.  S53 

hood^  moat  be  admitted  in  the  change  which  took 
place  on  the  site  of  Bedford  Square  and  the  adjacent 
fiew  streets  north  of  Broad  St.  Giles's^  by  new  and  ele- 
gant erections,  encroaching  upon  the  vicinity  of  the 
still  wretched  Dyot,  or  George- Street,  Bainbridge-Streei, 
Bate  Castle,  Sfc.  and  a  large  space  eastward  of  them* 
which,  within  the  last  threescore  years,  was  most  appro- 
priately styled  tke  Ruins  qf  St.  Giles;  at  that  time 
mostly  an  open  space,  which  had  been  occupied  by  ^ 
number  of  decayed  dwellings. 

In  Broad-Street,  vulgarly  Broad  St.  Giles's,  it  should 
have  been  observed,  stands  the  parish  church  of  St. 
Giles  in  the  Fields.  The  old  church,  taken  down  in 
17S0,  gave  place  to  the  new  fabric,  built  entirely  of 
Portland  stone.  The  outside  of  the  church  has  a 
rustic  basement,  and  the  windows  of  the  galleries  have 
semi-circular  heads,  and  over  them,  a  modillion  cor- 
nice. The  steeple  is  one  hundred  and  sixty-five  feet 
high,  and  consists  of  a  rustic  pedestal,  supporting  a 
Doric  order  of  pilasters;  and  over  the  clock  is  an 
octangular  tower,  with  three  quarter  Ionic  columns, 
supporting  a  balustrade,  with  vases,  on  which  stands  the 
spire,  which  is  also  octangular  and  belted.  The  interior 
is  chaste  and  beautiful;  the  ornamented  ceiling  being 
one  of  the  best  in  the  metropolis.  Before  the  ancieot 
boipilal,' which  stofiod  here,  the  famous  Sir  John  Old^ 
castle.  Lord  Cobham,  was  gibbeted  and  burnt  alive  for 
his  religious  tenets.  This  was  an  act  which  disgraced 
the  reign  of  Henry  the  Fifth. 

Among  other  accommodations  in  agitgtion  for  thft 
benefit  of  this  part  of  the  metropolis,  it  is  proposed  to 
bttiU  a  new  fish-maifcet,  on  the  bank  of  the  Thjsmes^ 
west  of  Old  Hungerford  Market,  now  nearly  fallen 
int6  disuse* 

Another  maCisrial  improvement  is  exhibit^  in  Black 
Friars  Road  or  Great  Surrey-Street,  near  the  comer  of 
HoHaad-Stneet^  in  the  t^i^MBatiou  of  inm  in  li^ii  of 

A   A 


SM  WAIpKft  TSSOVOB  tOVftOll. 

stoae^  as  a  subtUtule  far  pavemeni  ia  the  strtate  ot  tUs 
metropolU.  Thia  iucoedaiiettin  eooaiiU  of  aqnarc 
pieces  of  oast  iron  suitably  shaped,  roughed  and  dove* 
tailed.  This  experiment,  made  in  the  summer  of  1816^ 
has  succeeded  so  far,  that  it  has  been  resolved  to  pave 
some  streets  in  the  city  in  thia  manner,  and  to  begin 
with  Wood-Street,  Cheapnde.  It  is  computed  that  an 
iron  pavement  well  adjusted  will  endure  twenty  years 
in  a  gre^t  thoroughfare ;  whereas»  it  is  too  wdi  kaowo, 
that  a  stone  pavement  very  frequently  requiies  lepain^ 
and  a  new  a4Justmeot.  The  piecesraUeady  laid  down 
resemble  a  batch  of  eight  or  nine  tolls,  and  are  nnited 
like  the  parts  of  a  dissected  map,  wiiheut  lulerstioea  or 
eveu  palpable  joints*  From  their  austiiiniag  every 
kind  of  load,  and  the  roughest  of  usage,  there  is  no 
doubt  of  the  ultimate  success  of  this  invention. 

This  vicinity  will  probably  receive  consideiaUe 
benefit  fr^m  the  erection  of  the  New  Qeb^urg  Tkeao^ 
in  the  centre  of  the  New  Cut,  in  the  direct  Una  of 
Waterloo  Brid^,  and  distant  fiwsa  \t  about  a  quartet 
of  a  mile.  On  the  CKterior  surface  of  the  foundation 
the  following  inscription  was  eul.  **  The  first  stone  of 
the  Royal  Cobourg  Theatre  was  bud  Sept.  14,  lUQ^ 
by  his  Serene  Highness  the  Prince  of  Smm^  Gohonrg, 
and  her  Royal  Highness  the  PHncess  Cfaailolle  of 
Wales,  by  their  Serene  Highnesses'  proxy>  AMei^Mn 
Goodbehere. 

£3itending  our  views  down  the  #lver,  we  find  the 
improvements  still  more  promising.  An  emhaokmefU 
in  front  of  the  New  Custom  House,  in  eonsequenoe  of 
a  fair  adjuslment  bet.ween  the  City  and  the  Govern- 
ment,  through  the  medium  of  the  Lord  Mayor,  has 
taken  place.  This  is  intended  to  increase  the  whar- 
fage  there,  and  render  more  commodious  the  shipping^, 
landing,  and  stowage  of  goed^,  and  also  the  Omiage 
way.  l^ri  of  BiNingsgale  dock  is  to-be  Uken  in,  and 
yet  leave  room  enough  fbr  the  fishing  vesseb,  the  ftsh- 


WACKt  TBIOUGB  LOVDOV.  85S 

imirkel  is  to  be  wMened,  and  tiie  landing  stain  Mpanted 
M  tbe  wharf»  io  a»  to  rendar  the  facility  of  panefigen 
taking;  boat  iDore  saH^  and  comfortable  than  it  hat 
hitherto  been. 

-  "But  of  London,  a  new  iron  bridge  is  to  form  a 
tochmnnication  between  the  EmcXi  and  Kent  roadsi 
This  bridge  is  to  eioas  tbe  Thames  from  Near  GraveB- 
LauetoRoCberbitbe. 

Difrecting  oor  attention  again  to  thd  city,  we  obaerva 
tbe  old  north  wdl  of  London  running  behind  tbe  site  of 
CM  Beiblem  Hospital,  entirely  taken  down,  which  has 
thrown  open  to  public  view  the  area  of  the  new  square, 
enclosed  with  bandsoase  iron  railing.  Tbe  wall  was 
found  uncommonly  thick,  and  the  bricks  double  tbe 
size  of  those  now  used.  Tbe  centre  had  been  ftlled  in 
with  lai*ge  loose  stones,  &c. ;  tbe  line  of  waU  now  re* 
Mtfoved  is  partly  the  bat  ^«stige  of  tbat  which  remained 
of  a  eircumiferehee  of  three  milea  and  two  hundred  and 
ftve  yards. 

The  imnaenae  ineneose  of  buikliogv  aboat  the  eastern 
extremity  of  the  City  Road,  is  also  astonishing.  In 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Shepherd  and  Shepherd- 
ess, Cliatbaaa  Gardens,  Boston  New  Town,  OU^Street, 
&c.  the  stnictiires  it o  Bufldcntly  aMmeroua  to  form  a 
small  city.     * 

To  tbe  westward,  m  this  iViad,  The  ZHssentert*  Work- 
ing  School  far  Orphans,  is  a  handsome  building,  con- 
sisting of  two  wings,  and  a  place  of  worship  in  the 
centre,  which  is  opoii  to  tbe  public 

The  9umkmf  Fent^Home,  which  is  very  near  the 
extremity  of  OoswdMStraet,  towards- the  City  Road,  is 
now  exclusiMy  appropriated' to  the  maintenance  and 
education  of  their  chlldreki. 

The  increase  of  new  buildings  in  tbe  eastern  extre- 
mity  of  the  metropolis,  from  Bethnal  Green- towards 
Bow  and  Stratford^  is  nearly  equal  to  tbat  of  the  west- 


956  .WALKS  rrWKOUGB  iLOMDON. 

km  in  poiat  of  extent.  The  foAnatibh  of  the  East  and 
West  India  Docks  has,  in  aome  measure*  tendered  tfaia 
increase  necessary  here,  as  wdl  as  in  the  enf irons  of 
Stepney,  Limehouse,  and  Poplar. 
'  The  rage  for  building  has  also  suggested  a  new  in- 
crease, which  is  intended  to  be  made  on  the  site  of  8p« 
Fields ;  this  is  understood  to  cooaist  of  several  new 
streets,  which  are  designed  to  cover  the  adiole,  or  the 
greatest  part  of  that  salubrious  spot,  conunonly  known 
1>y  the  name  of  Che  Pipe  Fieidt,  havt%  Sadler's  Welb 
on  the  east,.  Bagnigge  Wells  on  the  west,-  the  new  road 
on  the  north,  and  part  of  Clerkenwell  on  the  .south* 
The  substitution  of  large  iron  pipes  for  those  of  woodt 
ft  19  said,  will  enable  the  proprietors  of  thb  verdant  and 
diversified  itatt^  the  la»t  remains  of  the  iitif  in  Ur^, 
to  cover  it  with  houses. 

:  Before  quitting  the  subject  of  our  new  huiUings,  we 
must  observe,  that  the  late  taste  exhibited  in  the 
suburbs  has  employed  the  wit  of  Mr.  Coiman,  in  hia 
Ecceniriciiiei,  under  the  title  of  London  Rurmti^ 

Strctcbioif,  round  Elnglajid*s  chief  t^mporiam,  far, 
(No  rage  for  Building  qaeotli'd  by  raging  War,} 
What  would- be  Villas,  rang'd  'm  dapper' pride,  • 

Urarp  the  fields;  4ftd  tiboke  th»  bighnwy  lidei 
Peace  to  each  swaio,  who  mral  raptnre  o^Tms,  ^  • .-, 
\As«o<Mi«aip«it«ta^I,  or  o^tb^  stones!     .  , 
Whose  joy,  if  baildiogs  solid  bliss  besUiWp 
Capnot^  for  miles,  aa  iDterniption  faiow : 
8are  when  a  gap,  of  some  half  doxen  /eet. 
Just  breaks  tbe  continuity  of  street  \' 
Wb^re  the  prilrArthiteet;- with' «iy/<iib'ftev^  '      *     •' 
Hw  dord'bis  boQies  Ibvtb,  Ui  two  faf  t«a; 
And  rear'd.asilow^apoa  ^e  |iUii»  no  dosbta 
Of  old  mcDi'  jaws,  with  evf  ry  third  .tooth  ont. 
Or  where,  still  ^atcr  lengths  of  taste  to  go. 
He  warps  bis  tenements  into  a  bow; 
'  Nails  a  scant  canras,'  propt  on  slight  deal  sticks,    ' 
Kick-namM  Femutta^  to  the  firtt^floor  brieks ; 


WALU  THROUGH    lONDO!*;  86Z 

.  Before  tbc  wbotoy  in  one  loag  sQgaicDt  dnwD, 
CUpt  half  a. rood  of  tarf  b<s  calU  a  lawn  ; 
Then  cbnckling  at  his  latb-and-plaster  bubble, 
Dttbs  it  the  Crescent, — and  the  rents  are  double. 

A»  Utility  must  be  admitted  to  be  tuperior  to  shew  and 
erobdlisbment,  the  completion  of  Soutbwark-Bridge 
will  be  hailed  as  an  excellent  and  substantial  improve* 
inent.  The  greatest  part  of  the  iron-work  is  now  de* 
livered  in  London,  and  the  remainder  will  be  ready  for 
potting  up  in  the  course  of  the  summer.  The  middle 
arch  it  two  hundred  aod  forty  feet  span,  and  the  two 
tide  arches  will  be  two  hundred  and  ten  feet  each ;  the 
width  of  the  road-way  and  foot  paths  between  the  para^ 
peti  will  be  forty-two  feet,  the  same  ae  Black  Friar's 
bridge.  The  south  abutment,  with  the  land  arch  over 
Bank  side,  is  nearly  completed,  and  ready  to  receive 
the  iron  for  that  side  arch,  which  will  be  the  first  put 
up.  One  of  'the  two  piers  is  completed  up  to  above 
high  water  mark,  and  the  other  is  finished  to  above 
low  water. 

'  Among  the  benefits  attending  this  undertaking  are 
the  following.  It  will  greatly  facilitate  the  commerce 
both  of  the  London  and  Surrey  side  of  the  river,  by 
dividing  and  lessening  the  superabundant  traffic  over 
London  and  Blackfriars  Bridges,  and  prevent  the 
occurrence  of  those  injurious  stoppages  so  frequent  in 
the  avenues  near  London -Bridge. 
•  It  will  cause  a  handsome  street  to  be  formed  from 
Bankside  to  St.  George's  Church,  seventy  feet  wide  and 
half  a  mile  long,  and  thereby  open  a  commodious 
passage  from  Kent  and  Surrey  into  the  heart  of  Lon- 
don. It  will- add  to  the  Borough  a  neighbourhood  of 
icspectability  id  the  room  of  that  of  an  inferior  kind, 
wUoh  must  be  reinoved:  By  the  proximity  of  the 
new  street  to  the  heart  of  tbe  city,  the  Bank,  Roya^ 
Exchange^  Stock  Exchange^  Excise  Ofiice,  Guildhall; 
kc,  this  part  of  Southwark  may  become  a  convenieni' 


S58  WALU  THBouen  lordoii. 

residence  for  merdumlt,  wiioieMle  dealers,  &c  This 
bridge  is  also  admirably  suited  to  the  situation,  as  it 
will  tend  to  remove  the  irregularity  of  shallows  in  this 
part  of  the  river,  by  dividing  the  stream,  and  thereby 
directing  the  current  into  three  regular  cbaniids,  and 
consequently  clear  them  of  many  of  those  sand-baoka 
which  now  injure  the  navigation ;  and  l^is  it  will  efiect 
in  a  greater  degree,  whenever  London-Bridge,  whidi 
caused  these  impediments,  may  be  rebaQl  or  altered. 

However,  that  London  is  yet  inferior  to  most  capitals 
in  architectural  embellishments,  is  a  remark  made  by 
many,  besides  a  classical  writer  of  our  own  country, 
who  has  expressed  a  hope,  '« that  the  British  natioo 
ere  long  will  triumph  over  every  obstacle,  inspire  artiaU 
with  genius,  and  teach  even  brick  to  emulate  marble.'' 
Free  stone  is  now  most  ardently  recommended ;  and 
it  is  observed,  that  the  restoration  of  the  exterior  orna- 
menu  of  Westminster  Abbey  has  been  commenced 
with  Bath  stone;  and  acolonade  at  the  Regent's  Cireua« 
near  Portland  Place,  and  another  before  the  Opera  HouaCp 
on  the  side  of  Pall  Mall,  have  been  erected  with  free- 
stone from  Somersetshire. 

It  is  sincerely  hoped  that  the  erection  of  the  New 
Poat  Qfice,  near  St.  Martin's  l.e  Grand,  will  be  made 
subservient  to  a  better  display  of  the  Cathedral  of  SC« 
P$uU»  "  If  both  purposes  can  be  accomplished  by  the 
same  alteration,  and  the  splendid  efiect  given  to  that 
noble  edi6cc,  which  space  would  confer,  the  Taltie  of 
the  improvement  would  be  doubled* 

Nothing,  it  must  be  acknowledged,  can  more  sen* 
sibly  evince  the  present  state  of  improvement  than  the 
contrast  which  may  still  be  made  between  our  ancient 
^ni  the  more  modern  structures  in  various  parts  of 
this  metropolis.  To  pass  over  the  exceeding  rude 
dwellings  of  our  early  forefathers*  the  buildings  of 
the  middle  ages,  with  stones  projecting  beyond  each 
other    as    they    aseended^  ititt   remnd  us  <»f  the 


WALKS  TBEOUOH   LONDON*  3^9 

slow  march  of  improvement  during  several  ages.  A 
few  of  them,  besides  those  illustrated  in  this  work, 
which  exhibit  m  specimen  of  old  London,  remain  about 
Bishopsgate  and  LeadenhsiU  Streets,  and  particularly  in 
Holy  well-Street,  in  the  Strand.  However,  it  is  probable 
that  another  half  century  will  obliterate  the  remem- 
brance of  them  from  almost  every  testimony  but  the 
works  of  thdse  i^ists  whose  taste,  skill,  and  inde- 
fatigable research  have  preserved  many  rare  and  va- 
luable representations  of  the  remains  of  antiquity,  no 
longer  visible  *. 

Here  we  do  not  allude  altogether  to  the  houses  of  the 
common  people,  though,  speaking  of  these,  a  writer 
upon  architecture  observed,  several  years  since,  "  When 
I  compare  the  modem  English  way  of  building  with 
the  old  way,  I  cannot  but  wonder  at  the  genius  of  old 
times.  Nothing  i$,  or  can  be  more  delightful  and  con- 
venient than  light,  and  nothing  more  agreeable  to 
health  than  free  air.  And  yet  of  old  they  used  to  dwell 
in  houses,  most  of  them  with  a  blind  stair-case,  low 
ceilings,  and  dark  windows ;  the  rooms  built  at  random, 
without  any  convenience,  and  often  with  steps  from  one 
to  another.  So  that  one  would  think  the  people  of 
former  ages  were  afraid  of  light,  or  loved  to  play  at 
hide  and  seek.  Whereas  the  taste  of  our  times  is  alto- 
gether for  light  stair-cases,  fine  sash  windows,  and  lofty 
ceilings.'^ 

Among  the  houses  illustrated  by  the  annexed  wood 
cut,  was  a  house  on  the  west  side  of  the  street  called 
LUtU  MoorJUldt.  The  representations  here  are  speci- 
mens of  the  foliated  front,  and  may  be  attributed  to  the 
latter  period  of  the  sixteenth  century. 


•  Vide  tiM  Andsni  Topogrspby  of  Iioodon,  bj  T.  Smith,  isi5. 


360 


WALKS   THRiOUOH  LOMDOHi 


This  house  consisU  of  oak,  latb^  and  plaster ;  but 
the  ceilings,  which  have  evidently  undergone  various 
changes,  are  now  destitute  of  ornament.  This  houfe 
is  one  of  the  oldest  standing  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
MoorBelds.  It  was  not  unusual  to  fix  iron  books  into 
the  frohts  of  the  old  hoiises,  especially  in  the  most 
public  streets,  whereon  to  suspend  the  tapei»tryj  which 
was  brilliantly  displayed  on  rejoicing  or  procession 
days  J  a  custom  that  had  prevailed  from  a  very  early 
period. 

The  old  house,  represented  in  the  next  wood  cut, 
oU  the  south  side  of  London  WaU,  is  of  oak  and 
piaster,  and  the  folidge  of  ])laster  alone,  and  exhibits 
a  good  specimen  of  the  foliated  style  in  the  reign  of* 
Charles  the  First* 


I        — 


WALKS  THROUGH    LONDON. 


361 


The  houses  lately  standing  on  the  west  corner  cf- 
Chancery  .Lane,  as  delineated  in  the  next  wood  engrav- 
ing* presented  a  genuine  specimen  of  the  grotesque 
hracketted  front  and  projecting  stories  of  the  reign  o£ 
Edward  the  Sixth.  These  houses  were  taken  down  by 
the  city  in  May  1799,  to  widen  Chancery- Lane :  they 
Were  entirely  of  oak  and  plaster.  It  was  from  the  top 
of  the  corner-house  that  several  cherubs  flew  down,  and 
presented  Queen  Elizabeth  with  a  crown  of  laurels  and 
gold,  together  with  some  verses,  when  she  was  going 
into  the  city,  upon  a  visit  to  Sir  Thomas  Gresbam. 


3G3  WALKS  THBOUGH  LONDON. 


AmoDg  the  excellent  criticisms^  which  evince  an 
Increasing  taste  in  sculpture,  a  writer  on  the  Fine  Artt 
has  censured  the  architecture  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Opera  House^  as  one  of  the  Roman  pseudo  specimens. 
The  Ionic,  opposite  Carlton-House,  is  also  deemed  a 
great  deviation  from  the  little  Temple  on  the  Ilyssusy 
near  Athens.  Here  too  the  architect  is  accused  of 
omissions  of  essential  component  parts,  and  gprand 
divisions  of  the  order.  His  Roman  egg  and  anchor 
have  also  heen  glanced  at  as  one  of  the  Roman  mongrels, 
and  a  perversion  of  their  princely  prototypes. 
^  When  it  is  said  that  Cbamhers,  Wren,  Palladio,  and 
Perrault,  simplified  the  Roman  style,  it  is  answered, 
that  they  had  not  seen  nor  known  the  Grecian ;  but 
only  selected  the  most  beautiful  of  the  known  speci- 
mens ;  they  divested  them  of  the  extraneous  ornaments 
of  the  Colliseum,  of  the  Theatce  of  MaroeUos,  of  the 
Temple  of  Concord,  and  made  them  approach  the 
rimpliciiy,  though  they  missed  the  duttrmcUr  of  the 


VALM  TBIOUGB    LONDON*  968 

GrtdL  No  things  difier  more  than  the  Greek  and 
Konuui  creed  of  the  orders :  beautifnl  spirak,  lovely 
contoiiTB  composed  from  dipaes,  paraholas*  hyperbolas, 
and  other  conic  sections,  selected  from  the  higher 
mathematics,  by  the  greatest  mathematicianSj  compose 
all  the  parts  of  the  one ;  clumsy  quarter  rounds,  circular 
and  bolstered  cimarectas,  and  reverses,  struck  by  a 
pair  of  carpenter's  compasses,  the  other.  The  geome- 
try of  Euclid  was  as  incapable  of  improvement  by  any 
of  his  successors,  as  the  architecture  of  the  days  of 
Pericles,  by  the  mechanics  of  the  time  of  Marcellos, 
Trajan,  Constantine,  or  Dioclesian. 

Even  Sir  Christopher  Wren  and  Sir  WilUam  Cham- 
bers, are  not  admitted  to  have  seen  enough  of  the  pure 
Grecian.  Chambers  is  supposed  to  have  taken  the 
delusions  of  Piranesi,  for  Grecian  purity,  and  with  all 
his  talents  and  genius,  he  is  accused  of  having  deceived 
many  a  warm  imagination,  and  brought  an  nnmerited 
contempt  on  the  sterling  and  magnificent  ruins  of 
ancient  Rome. 

Roma  quanta  fait  ipn  niina  doc«t. 

Or  perhaps  Chambers  learnt  his  Greek  through  the 
pert  Frenchman  Le  Kayt  inventive  blunden  of  the  re- 
mains of  Athenian  Greece.  ''  Let  it  be  remembered,*' 
ttiy^this  corrector  oflardiHectura)  manners,  *'*that  Sir 
Christopher  Wren  was  not  regularly  inducted  in  arclii- 
teotureasaline  art,aldioQgh,asaseience,  ft  bad  opened 
lo  him  all  its  rkibes ;  he  is  siltowed  to  have  been  the 
greatest  mathematjeian  and  e&nttrttcMe  architect  of 
anodem  times,  of  which  the  meefaatifsm  of  St  Paul's 
Cathedral,  the  spir«<)f  Bow  ClMhrch,  the  little  beauty 
of  St  Dunitan'sin  the  East,  the  turret-crdwned  towers 
oPtic  Mii^ael'^  CoHege-HllI,  St  Stephen's,  Walbrook, 
and  the  dravch  <on  GarMek-HHI,  among  many  oflien, 
are  incontrorertlUe  proofs*"    '^ 

Ho  is  chimed  wMi  hMkmg  huto  Vitniviys  Ibr  purity 


S6#*  WALKS  imauOfl'lJOKA^Ifk' 

of  style  m  itneient  Oreeccr  wkidiihejpropoMd  yf'wi^img 
after  Room;. but  when  Sk  Chritlopber  commMiceA 
bis  proposed  travels,  be  iinibrtanafeely  reaelied  no  hr^ 
ther  tban  Paris,  where  he  conteminated  his  style'witl» 
tiie  pnerililies  of  the  French  modification  of  the  Romeo 
school.  From  FmtU  he  was  ordered  home,  in  conse« 
quence  of  the  Fire  of  London,  to  rebuild  the  desolated 
oity,  and  hence  all  iiis  works  are  supposed  to  partake  of 
the  French  school.  But  had  Wren^  the  highly*gifted 
Wreur  visited,,  in  those  days,  and  studied  the  Parrthenon, 
^Mk  Phidias  for  his  guide,  with  Stone,  the  master-aaasoo 
of  St.  Paul's,  for  his  builder,  and  Gibbons  for  his  carver, 
it  is  asked^.what  would  not  our  metropolis  have  boasted 
BOW  ?  Wren  would  have  been  the  greatest  architecT 
the  world  ever  knew. 

In  nothing  do  foreigners,  or  those  who  speak  their 
iMiguage,  use  more  freedom  than  when  they  speak  of 
our  anrhtlecUire*.  <'.  At  Paris,  or  St.  Pietersbnrgb^'^ 
toys  axecent  writer,  "  you  will  see  in  one  hour  mme^ 
edifices  closely  following  the  Grecian  forms  than  i» 
contained  in  London ;  and  even  the  few  they  have  to 
present  to  us  are  sadly  deficient  in  agreement  of  the 
proportions,  or  want  of  keeping  in  the  omoot  parts. 
With  the.  weiUturned  pillars  of  one  order,  you  shall 
find  squab  windows  of  another ;  or  a  pediment  approach:", 
ing  to  the  triangular  shape,  supported  by  Tuscan  M 
J>oric  shafts.        ;  V 

,  '' A  wM^coostructed  coluQun^whicb  coomoBQerates: 
the  destruction  of  the  cjity  a.himdred.and  fifty  yeara 
ago^  is  placed  in  the.  lowest  situation,  only  visible  froov 
theif  ater<«side  ^monglbeapiqesof  Sttrroandingdmrehes^ 
^aA  iS'Deacljr  Ic^  in  the  distant  view« 
^  '.'  Tb^  ci^on  forplaping  the  colaasn  hese  is  that  .only 
wfajipfaioqght  not  to-be  adduf»i|. oameiy,  thai  here^he^. 
ffmiifA  ^09  .whereas  ^nd  jnassot^woidd  hayie. pointftd 

*  Vide  Obacrvationt  of  a  Rattian  dvriog  a  fetMeBeela  Eaglaad/ 
«pc.>s»    lteaflaS•d(frib.tlMllt^hl•l;alsaawri^«iCN^ 


tHit'ilie'spoC  where  ibe  d<»troetiye  element  was'cotiL 
•^efed,  wliere  its  mvliges' ceased,  itnd  where*  the '«f^ 
^ghtcd  people  were  gufRfred  to  rep<Me.  Their  laoM 
wplcndid  edifices  am  rftdically  d^ecttve.  St.  PbuVs 
Church  cannot  be  seen  ;  Somerset  H^iise  is  unilnished*; 
8l  Stephen's,  Walbrook,  is  only  perfect  inside ;  the 
beoutilal  porch  of  SC;  Martin's  Obnrch  is  unsupported 
by  o^er  parts  of  the  edifice ;  CaHton  Honse  ii^  dbfpraeed 
by  itsenrtain.  No;  England  is  not  the  cosntry  for  fine 
aiichitettore ;  at  least'  if  we  are  to  judge  fiy>m-  itseapi^ 
tal.  Nothing  there  4s  grand  in  the  design,  or  striking 
in  the  efiect :  the  approach  at  St.  PaaV's  is  spoiled,  or 
d^Mfs  not  exist  t  at  Westminster  HaM  it  is  ample,  only 
you  have  nothing  to  approach.  Is  the  closets,  at  liie 
bottom,  are  the  chiefest  courts  of  law,  and  the>kiDg  is 
supposed  to  sit  in  one  of  them. 

"  What  is  wanting  in  accuracy  of  design  rn  ohurott 
archlteetitre  of  long  standing,  is  ^mpensatedbya  so*^ 
temn  gloom :  buik  in  barbarous  times,  they  are  de- 
signated by  the  baiterians  who  suffered  them  to  be 
reared^  Germany,  as  well- as  Prance  and  England, 
abounds  in  these  Coikie  churches.  Many  of  tile 
btiildeiv  too,  brought  from  the  moftt  southern  extMMlty 
of  Europe,  being'  enemies  to  oor  failth,  indulged  in 
ifisrttve  designs,  intended  to  ndicnle  the^  emplojpart 
Md'to  scoff  at  their  womhip.-  Manyof  the  koy-stooaa 
are  carved  widi  ridiculous  faces,  a' pig,  &c. 

"Howefer,  if  England  benotlbe'eouMry  of«Cu* 
pendous;  buildings,  it  is  iflditpotably  that  in  whieh 
tomlbrt  is  studied- with  oooopleteefibct.  You  cannot 
wan  imoginea  ground  plan  bittor  adapted  to  this  pnr* 
posesof  domestic'  ease  tha^ihat  of  Mn  B;^^8  boose; 
situated  in  the  Ticmity  of  a  number  of  other  M^riesj 
it'CoHMMaDda  a  dishuit  •  >riow  of  the  conntry,  ^Utidea 
kMring  a.^oe  piece '  of  «ground.laid  out  m  the  oeaflfa  of 
thesqHare  ID  which  it  fimas.  a  part.  ^Wtth  ataUiag 
behifld»  a* oouefe-ywd >iii. firaat^.and  ft. superb  ra9i|ig# 


DMmy  of  tbcw  koui^nigbi  vie  with  p«lio«i»  v«toe  Ifae 
MtfcTMi/  of  th«t  only  which  %  correot  Hite  talb  «i 
4Mi«kt  to  he  uied.  Upuracd*  of  five  thoinend  of  Itei 
fint-claift  homes  have  beeo  eraeted  within  the  mrmMj 
of  the  elder  Mr.  B. 

«'  AoEsghriMuan'sfaeinebeliig^his  cistle»  hew  wooM 
be  eiQoy  thet,  or  the  freedom  of  bis  person,  if  he  wai 
hoiiriy  eoBoyed  by  e  beggar  deteoDding  from  ibeeiftcv 
Of  ibethrd  by  the  sfdeBdid  eqoipege  of  a  Comit  or  a 
General oDihe  gioMd-Aeor^  A  fine proaped of  the 
Pthmn  Bomkvatd$,  or  a  JBar  GrvMe,  would  oounter* 
poite  nothing  in  his  mtimaciott. 

**  Bm  the  oenfeHiipbitivn  stranger  will  view  with 
melancholy  the  gteal  number  of  prisons  thickly  ctndM 
orar  the  metropolis^  The  number  of  these  attest  the 
insecurity  of  property,  the  depraeity  ef  mosab»  or  the 
vigibmoeoftbepoKoek  Newgate  efeisM  the  first  oolioe, 
as  brings  with  its  next  neighbour^  constmeledLof  ston^ 
rmtteaied  at  the  base,  and  chiadled  sfclop :  iUffloomy 
aipeet  is  saddened  by  smoke,  whilst  the  pbiltnlheopk 
mind  isdepffciscd  by  tbereeellection  of  themutterotts 
entcotioBs  before  its  door.  Oa  the  soothevn  side  it  ia 
benndedhy  the  eeurt-yard  and  court  of  criminal  joa* 
tif»!;  and  on  this>spot  tbe  ittndir  being  depesitedt 
passes  through  a  dark  reeeia,  to  Ace  his  judges  and 
finaUy  in  the  elocution,  wttbin  a  lew  yards  of  his  celL 
Upon  walking  northwasds,  we  find  the  right  of  Uus  sad 
pa^flmbcd by  another  prison:  thtai&the  Cky  Compter, 
fivqfuantly  contaming  some  hundreds  of  hath  aeaas< 
▲  litde  iaedvmceof Uies^ in FIsat-Marfcetvisanolhef 
vcay  large  ^prisDn^  incloaed'  within  high  walls^  and 
whaHy  appiopciated  aa  the  eonfiacment  of  personate 


Whatever  wmy  be  wrgad  by  fiaraigneta  with  the 
Vaam  «o  depmaiateottr  pnUie  boiUings,  them  aie  ■aaagr 
vaoant  erections  to  whiebaone  oflhcir  oananraa  wdl 
m^    TheNawfimgmi^nlisll^nnthemuthsideer 


VMK0  rmWOfVQB  1ANBOM.  MT 

Lmeob'ft  Inn  Fields  it  a  striking  csceptioQ  to  this 
general  centure.  Ifc  is  beyond  a  doubi  Mie  of  the  nuMt 
€logant  ifcrQCturM  in  the  metropolis,  it  is  of  the  lonie 
oider^  wttk  a  noUe  colonodr  and  poitMOw 

It  IS  expected  that  the  national  nonnroents  in  agw 
latlon.  will  materially  inerease  the  embdlisbnicnts  of 
the  metropolis  and  other  parU  of  the  United  Kingdoms. 
Several  of  these  monuments  will  oertainly  be  raised  in 
the  country;  and  the  Marquis  of  Aaglesea's  colmnn 
is  to  be  of  marble.  Thus  Seoiland,  and  crat  Wiaiet, 
will  contribute  in  perpetuating  the  heroic  deeds  of  our 
chiefs.  Ireland  has  already  named  the  site  for  build* 
ing  the  magnificent  testimonial,  in  honour  of  the  splendid 
military  achieremenU  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington ;  it 
is  fixed  near  the  old  battery  in  the  Phcsnix  Park,  DuUin, 
and  is  to  be  completed  in  three  years.  This  obelisk  is 
to  exceed^  in  magnitude,  grandeur,  and  elevation,  any 
similar  structure  in  Europe,  as  it  is  intended  to  have  an 
elevation  two  hundred  and  five  feet  from  the  surface 
of  the  ground. 

But  besides  embellishments,  it  seems  olyocts  of  utility 
have  not  eseaped  the  attention  of  the  people  at  large. 
The  Committee  of  the  House  of  Commons,  who  have 
been  engaged  in  the  enquiry  respecting  the  education 
of  the  poor,  have  reported  that  the  Natkmal  Society 
have  buih  or  added  to,  ereeted  or  enlarged,  one  hundred 
and  twenty*two  schools ;  and  that  the  most  oieful  ap* 
plication  ci  public  money,  to  promote  the  national  edn* 
cation,  will  be  in  erecting  schoolrooms,  &c.  in  various 
parts  of  the  kingdom.  The  great  Penitentiary  on 
MUlbank,  described  in  the  courae  of  these  Walks,  baa 
had  the  addition  of  a  burial-ground,  and  the  chapd 
here  has  lately  been  consecrated  by  the  Bishop  of  Lon* 
don.  The  whole  sum  expended  upon  thb  building  is 
950,000/.;  the  foundation  being  laid  upon  swampy 
ground,  having  inevitably  occasioned  an  excessive 
charge.    Thus,  whether  we  kMk  to  the  extent  of  this 


908  .WAtKS  THBOUGB  .LOMDOM. 

^reat  eapital,  the  number  and  opulence  of  itir  inhabk 
tanU,  or  to  the  magnitude  of  the  undertakings  tod  im- 
provemehtt  in  which  they  engage,  we  may  still  claim 
the  distinction  of  "  the  Greai  London ;"  an  appelhu 
•tion  which  a  native  of  the  German  Continent,  who  had 
witnetfied  our  prosperity,  did  not  hesitate  to  bestow 
.upon  uft  more  than  a  century  ago. 

The  concluding  wood-cut  delineates  the  arms  of  nu 
.Commercial  Ck'/y,  and  we  close  our  labours  with  our 
most  cordial  expression  of  Eg$o  perpctun. 


r.  . 


Si  if.  . 


.*   •    •  J  ■    •     - 

I*.  .'J,C    J      Ct-T'        «       «  -.».     t'. 


,    T-'Tit 


B    B 


17 


A 

LIST  OF  THE  WOOD  CUTS. 


PiMtoftheTowCT 1« 

Cold  Harbonr  in  the  Tower «0 

Back  EDtnmce  of  Crosby  Hoom 42 

Sir  Pftvl  Pindar**  House  ------ -44 

Window  of  the  Dntch  Chnrcb,  Anftin  Friart 66 

Window  of  EUing  Spita!  --     -- 8« 

William  Erans  and  Jeffcry  Hadion -    -  104 

Statoe  of  Edward  the  Sixth HI 

Capitalof  the  Colamns,  Temple  Chnrch 186 

Window  of  Ely  Chapel IfiO 

Roman  Altar  at  Mr.  Soame'iy  Lincoln's  Inn  Fields   -    -    -    -  170 

Gate  in  the  Safoy 183 

The  Coronation  Chair      ---- -  818 

Piece  of  TnrkUh  Ordnance,  Ptek MS 

Head  of  a  Triton -.--957 

Gate  of  the  House  of  Conection,  Cold  Bath  Fields   .'    -    -    -  961 

Sadler's  WeUs ««« 

Old  Honse,  Golden-Une «68 

Buins  of  Winchester-Honse  -----------  992 

Font  in  Stepney  Chnreh  ------------  888 

Old  Houses,  Little  Moorfidds 880 

_ ,  London  WaU 8«1 

,  Chancery  Lane      - S6i 

The  City  Anns S88 


B   B 


INDEX. 


ADELPHI,  the,  190. 

AfricMi  CompaD/y  Hooic  of  tl)e> 

8. 
Albaoy  Hotel,  the,  842. 
Aldgate,  19,  a6. 
Amweli,  892. 
Architcctare,   obserratioos   on, 

S68, 
^lef  HoQse,  947. 
AsylnoM,  the,  996,  999. 
A«i6tiopMait,  tJie,01. 
Austin  Friart,  65. 

Bangor  Courts  166* 

Bank,  the,  59. 

Banqnetting  Hoiu^y  the,  199* 

Barking,  399. 

Barnet,  394. 

Bear  Garden,  the.  988. 

Bcrmondiey,  981. 

Billingsgate,  95. 

Blackheatb,  aio. 

Bond-Street,  286,  949. 

Bow,  834. 

BoxHilJ,  316. 

Bridge,  London,  98 ;  Sonthwark, 

.  79  ;Blackfriars,  190;  Strand^ 
or  Waterloo.  186;  Westmin- 
ster, 901  ;  Vauxball,  303. 

British  MnscuD,  253. 

Brockley  Hill,  336. 

Buokingbam  HousC|  231. 

Bnsby,  322. 

Butcher  Row,  164. 

Cannon  Row,  901. 
Carlton  House,  931. 
Chapel  Royal,  933. 
Chapter  House,  St.  Pauls,  103. 
'    Wetcminster^ 
18. 


Charing  Cross,  196. 

Charter  House^  the,  1 15, 

Cheapside,  77. 

Chelsea,  340. 

Chertsey,  316. 

Cheshunt,  396. 

Chesterfield  House,  947. 

Chinese  Bridge,  the,  996. 

Christ's  Hospital,  107. 

Church  of  St.  Michael,  Combill, 
6  ;  St.  Peters,  ib. ;  St.  An- 
drew Undersbaft,  6 ;  St.  Ca- 
therine Cree,  9 ;  St.  Catherine 
Coleman,  1 1  ;  St.  Benoet, 
Gracechurcb,  ibk ;  St.  Diopis 
Back  Church,  11  ;  the  Holy 
Trinity,  18;  St.  Catherine, 
15  ;  AUhallows,  Barking,  17 ; 
St.  Dunstan's  in  the  £ast,  95 ; 
St.  Magnos,  London  Bridge, 
98  ;  SI.  Margaret  Pattens,  84 ; 
St.  Olave,  Hart-Street,  85 ;  St. 
Bennet,    Gracechorch-Street, 

,  36;  St.  fiotolph,  Bishopsgate, 
38  ;  St.  Helen,  40  ;  St.  Mar- 
tin Outwich,  46  ;  St.  Bennet 
Fink,  47  ;  St.  Peter  le  P*)or, 
ib.;  AU-Haltows,  Lombard- 
Street,  48 ;  St.  Mary  Abchurch, 
49  ;  St.  Clement,  East  Cheap, 
ib. ;  St.  Mic^l,  Crooked- 
Lane,  ib.  ;  Allhallows,TbajBes- 
Street,  51  ;  Su  Swithin,  Lim- 
doQ  stone,  62 ;  St.  Stephen, 
Walbrook,  58;  St.  Mary, 
Woolnooth,  66  ;  St.  Mildred, 
53 ;  St.  Bartholomew,  61  ; 
St.  S|aphen,  Coleman-Street, 
64;  All-Hallows,  London- 
Wall,  65  ;  St,  Antholin,  (,'9  ;. 
St.  Michael  Royal,   70;  St. 


INDEX. 


James,  Gariiek-HUI,  72 ;  St. 
Mary  Aldemary,  73 ;  8r. 
Michael,  Qoeen-Hitbe,  75  J 
St.  Mildred,  ib. ;  All-Halloire, 
Bread-Street,  ib. ;  9t.  Mary 
le  Bow,  76  $  St.  Glare,  Old 
Jewry,  78 ;  St.  I«awreiic«,  79  ; 
St  Mary,  Aldcrmanburj,  84  ; 
St.  Alban,  Wood-Street,  96  ; 
St.  Giles,  Cripplegate,  88 ; 
St.  Botolpb,  Aldersgate,  89  ; 
St.  Ano  and  St.  Agones,  90 ; 
St.  Vedast,  90 ;  St.  Michael, 
Wood-Street,ib.;  St.  Matthew, 
Friday-Street,  91 ;  St  Mary 
Ma^alen,  ib. ;  St.  Nicbolas, 
Cole  Abbey,  9« ;  St.  Mary,  So- 
mer'sHythe,  9« ;  St.  Benedict, 
9S ;  St.  Andrew  Wardrobe,  ib, ; 
St.  Paul,  95  ;  Christ,  107  ; 
St.  Bartbokmiew,  the  Great 
and  the  Less,  1 1S  ;  St.  Martin, 
JLAdgate,  l«0  ;  St.  Sepalcbre, 
168;  the  Temple,  133;  St. 
Bride,  141  ;  8t.  Andrew,  HoU 
bom,  159;  St:  Uiinstan  in 
the  West,  156  ;  St.  Clement 
Danes,  16R;  St.  Mary  le  Strand, 
174 ;  St  Piiul,  Corent-Gar- 
den,  187;  St  Martin  to  the 
Fields,  192;  St.  John  ibe 
£TangeHst,2Qi(7;  St.  Margaret, 
Westminster,  927  ;  St.  James, 
Westminster,  941  ;  St.  Mary 
la  Bonne,  948;  St.  George, 
Hanorer-Square,'  949 ;  Saint 
Aiine,Soho,  959  ;  St.  George, 
Bloamsbnry,  959  ;  St.  George 
the  Martyr,  960  ;  St.  James, 
defkenwell,  963;  St  John, 
do.  966  ;  St.  Lake,  Old-Street, 
967 ;  St  Leonard,  97 1 ;  Christ, 
Spital  Fields,  973  ;  St.  Mary, 
Wbitecbapel,  974  ;  St.  George 
in  the  East,  975 ;'  ^t  Pntil, 
Shadwell,  977  ;  Sti  •  John, 
Wapping,  977;     §t.    Olave, 

980  ;  St  John,  Horselydown, 

981  ;  St.  Mary  Magdalen, 
ib.;  St.  Thomas,  989;  St 
Mary  Overie,  986 ;  St  George 
the  Martyr,  989 ;  Christ,  Sui^ 
rey,  993  ;  St.  Maiy,  Nffwitig- 


ton,  805 ;  St.  Baul,  Deptford^ 
808;  St.  Mary  la  Bonne,  tbe 
new,  850 ;  St  Giles  in  tbe 
Fields,  658. 

City  of  London  Tarem,  43. 

Clapham,  314. 

Clerks,  or  Clerkenwell,  965. 

Coade^s  Manu&ctory,  995. 

Coal  Exchange,  the,  95. 

Cobonrg  Theatre,  the,  354. 

Commons,  House  of,  905. 

Coopers*  Hill,  316. 

Com  Exchange,  84 ;   the  new^ 
35. 

CoTeot  Garden  Mai%et,  187. 
Theatre,  ib. 


Coway  Stakes,  317. 

Croydon,  314. 

Craren-Street,  193. 

Crays,  Che,  311. 

Crosby  Honse,  40. 

Custom  House,  tbe  New,  91,  M. 

Dacre,  Lady's  Ahns-booses,  990. 

Darkbonse  Lane,  97. 

Deans'  Yard,  Westminster,  999. 

Denmark  House,  19. 

•Deptibrd,  308. 

Deronshtre  Hottse,  38,  945. 

Dirty  Dick,  bouse  of,  5. 

Docks,  London,  977. 

Sfaadwell,  ib. 

West  India,  334. 

Doctors*  Commons,  93. 
Do11y*s  Beef-steak  Hodse,  105. 
Drury  Lane  Theatre,  179. 
Duke's  Place,  37. 
Dolwich,  306. 

Eastcheap,  l^Ie,  33 ;  great,  49. 

East  India  House,  tlie,  6. 

Edgware,  ^37. 

Egyptian  Mdseum,  943.- 

Eltbam,  311. 

Ely  Place,  148  ;  Cliapel,  150. 

Embankment,  a  new,  354; 

Epsom,  315. 

Eritb,  311. 

Eton  College,  399. 

Exchange  Alley,  6. 

Excise  Office,  the,  47. 

Exeter  Change,  199. 


iRDVL 


Tidd  Laocy  144. 
Flic  Ofiicct,  the,  6,  56^ 
FMuBoogcn'  AlBuboutet,  805. 
Fleet  Market,  ISS. 
VketPiriioo,  the,  194, 
FkcemiMoiM'  Hall  aod  T»fcfD« 

S69. 
IVNiehPirotertaamCbaKfaor,49. 
FHcTD  Banicty  SSS. 
VnU  Fair  dcfcribed,  1S7. 

Giltspar  Street  Conpter,  118. 

Olnttoo.tbe,  119. 

Golden  Lane,  867. 

Goodman'*  Fidda,  13. 

GrceDhitbe,  tf  19. 

GrecDwich,  809. 

Grey  Friar«,  106. 

Grove  Hill,  SOS. 

Grab  Street,  Antiqnitica  in,  87. 

Gnildhall,  79. 

Hackney,  834. 

Hall^  BricUajen,  5;  Iromaoa- 
gfn,  1 1  ;  Hodaon's  Bay  Com- 
pany's, 19;  Bakers',  97  ; 
Watermen's,  ib.}  Clotbwork- 
ert*,  85 ;  Pewteren',  ib. ; 
Mercbant-tallom',  49;  Fiah- 
mon|^n*,50i  Flnmbm',61; 
Tallow^bandlers',  ib. ;  Sai- 
lers', 59;  Drapers*,  69; 
Foander's,  68 ;  Armourers 
and  Brasiera,  64  ;  Carpenters', 
65;  Grocers',  69;  Cutlers', 
71;  Dyen', ib.;  Innbolders*, 
ib. ;  Joiners',  ib. ;  Skinners', 
ib.  ;  Vintners',  79 ;  Gerrard's, 
78 ;  ^inlcr-stainers',  74 ; 
Guild,  79;  Blmrkwell,  89; 
Wearers',  ib. ;  Coopeis',  88  ; 
Girdlers',  ib. ;  Brewers',  84  ; 
Plasterers',  85;  F^sb  Clerks', 
ib. ;  Barbers*,  ib. ;  Currieis', 
86 ;  Coacb^makcrs',  89 ;  Gold- 
■mttbft',  ib. ;  Sadlen',  90; 
Srobtoiderers',  ib.;  Wax  -chan- 
dlers', ib.;  HaberdaBhefs',ib.; 
.  Mercers',  ib.;  Cordwainers', 
9«;  Apotbocaries',  94;  Sta- 
tioners*, 108 ;  Commereial^ 
198;  Inner  Temple,  185; 
Middle  Temple,  186;  Sor- 
geons'  New,  170,  867. 


Hammeismith,  840* 

Hampton  Court,  888* 

Harrow  on  the  HUl,  887« 

Hatlon  Gavden,  145. 

Herald's  College,  the,  98. 

Holywell  Mount,  45. 

Street,  178. 

■         Lane,  971. 

Horse  Guards,  the,  198. 

Hoffsemonger  Lane  Gad,  990. 

Hospital,  Old  Bethkm,  46; 
Cbtisfs,  107  ;  St.  Bartholo- 
mew's, 111 ;  Bridewell,  199; 
the  Scokisb,  154;  the  Qrtf 
Coat,  the  Green  Coat,  Ema- 
nuel, 980  ;  Middlesex,  959  ; 
the  Foundling,  960 ;  the 
Freneb,  968  ;  St.  Luke's, 969 ; 
City  Lying-in,  ib. ;  Askcs, 
970;  the  London,  975; 
Raioe's,  976;  Guy's,  999; 
St.  Thomas's,  ib. ;  Magdalen, 
998;  Westminster  Lying-in, 
996  ;  NewBethlem,  ib. ;  Jew's, 
881 ;  Chelsea,  840  ;  the  Lock, 
848  ;  St.  George's,  ib. 

House  of  Commons,  905. 

— —  of  Lords,  ib. 

■        of  Correction  for  Mid- 
dlesex, 960. 

Hungerford  Market,  199. 
Hyde  F^rk,  849. 

ImproTements,  Bcview  of,  348. 
Infirmary  for  the  eye,  1 18. 
Inn,  Seijeant'sFleet.Street)  140 ; 

Gray's»  146;  Pnrnival's,  148; 

Tharies',  151;  Clifford's,  1 56 ; 

Barnard's,  ib.  ;   .Staple,  ib. ; 

Lincoln's,     157 ;    Symond's, 

160;    Seijeanfs,    Chanccvy- 

Lane,.l61 ;  Uement's,  166  ; 

UtiH,  17&;  ^yoa\  178. 
Iron  parement,  the,  358. 
Isle  of  i>ogs,  846. 
Islington,  885« 

Kew,  318. 
Kenniugton,  804. 
Kensington,  83ft. 
King's  Bench  PrisoOi  991. 
Kingsland,  835. 
Kingitoo,  317. 
KnightfsHm,807. 


Lunb'ft  Cb^pd  Court,  fS. 
Leadeab^ll  Mutely  9. 
Library,  Dr.  Willuimt't,  87. 
Leicester  Fields,  936. 

Home,  «a7. 

Limehottie.BcMbi  «44« 
Lloyd's  Coffee-HoiMf ,  4. 
Lombard-etreet,  48,  67. 
Londop,  e&tCDt  of^  1. 

-  Tarero,  th«i  4a. 

-  Instituttoo,  64|  S8« 
-Wall,  67,356. 
-Karalitr,  86«^ 

Loog  Reach,  347. 
Lycenm  Theatre,  181. 

Mamiott-Hotoso,  Um»  64. 
Marioe  Society  Homo,  40. 
Marlborga^House,  939. 
Maiehaltea  Pritoo,  9B9. 
May  Fair,  946. 
Melbovni-Hoaae,  19A. 
M«Nliant  Tailor's  School,  60. 

MetropoHi,  otatiine  o£  the,  9. 
MiddlcsmB-HooMy  116. 
Mint,  tbe  New,  14. 
MiMioaary  Maseam,  68. 
Mitcbam,  314. 
MoDUfasnt,  the,  30, 36*4. 

Newgate,  1 19. 

."      '    MarkoC,  104* 
Newiogton  Baite,  306. 
Norfblk-Hoase,941. 
Northoinbcvlaad-HaiHe,  194. 

Oatlaodftj  317. 
Qhelish,  the,  991. 
Old  Houses,  360. 
Qpora  Itouse^  tlie,  938. 
Orphan  Scbooi  Plsaeaters,  366. 

Painted  Cbambfl-,  tha,  906. 
PldaceYard,01d,  983$  New,904. 
Fall  Mall,  939. 
Pannier  Alley,  105. 
FkntheoD,  tbe,.931. 
Paternoster  Row,  1049  ^S* 
Paal  Pindar,  House  of,  43* 
Penitentiary,  MiUbaak,  907 ,1868. 
Philanthropic  Soci^y,  306. 
Philosophical  Stxittf,  164.r 


Ptocadilly,  949. 

Picket-SCrMt,  171. 

Priion,  New,  WkitccraM^ilnct, 

87. 
Prisons,  great  number  of,  367. 
Porter  and  Dwarf,  the,  106. 
Portland  Place,  349. 
Pwt  Office,  the  Gcaend,  Mi  • 
Poultry,  the,  68. 
Polteney  Hotel,  343b 
Pnrley,  316. 
Putney,  390i 

Regency  Theatre,  the,  349. 

Regent's  Pttk,  thi^  361. 

Rtcbmond,  317. 

Rolls,  Liberty  of  the,  160. 

Rosemary  Lane,  13. 

Rolberhithe,  307« 

Royal  Amphitlieaft^*  *W. 

Circus,  999. 

Exchange,  3. 

Institution,  944. 

Mflitary  Aqdnaa,  84 1 . 

Royalty  Theatre,  978. 
Runnyinede,316. 
Rhnol  Intitntson,  958. 

Sadler's  W«US,  9B9. 
Savoy,  thh,  189. 
Schomborg-Houso,  940* 
Sohool  /or  Indigent  BKod,  306. 
Schools,  number  of  new,  367. 
SboHand  Yard^  197. 
SbulpUin:,  by  Gibber,  349. 
SesHoas    iHonae,    OM    Bailry, 

119. 
Srfisiom    House,     ClorlcnwcU, 

964. 
Shuoter'aHiU,310. 
Sinn  Colkge,  84. 
Smtt  House,  339. 
Skitaaer.etrcel,  197. 
S^  Fields,  the,  961,366. 
S^eer*Houfle,  934. 
Sfuare^  Bedford,  363;  Berhelej, 
''•46  {  Bloortisbury,  968  »  Ca- 

Veiidiaby948;  Charter-HoMe, 

117';  Finrf>ury^  46$  FilMoy, 
•f  «69|  GijMvenor,  947;  Hano- 
. '  I  *cr^  960  ;  Manchester,  ««8  ; 

PertoM^  ib. ;  'iteten't,  960  ; 
•  .'Bed;Uon,  9d8;  Bund,  953, 

968  -r  SMIU>tfy,   131  i'  Soho, 


INDBX. 


958;   St.  Jamcs'a,  941;  St. 

Joba't,  966  ;  WellcloM,  976. 
SoAne,  Mr.  boose  of,  169. 
Socie^  of  ArtSy  Maonfictaresy 

&c.  bouM  of,  191. 
Somenet-HoDse,  176. 
Sontb  Sea  House,  46. 
Sontbwulc  Bridge,  858. 
Soutbwailc,  extent  of,  979. 
St  Albans,  893. 
St.Bartl(oJ9ipew'%Clqir»  U4, 
St.  Catharine's,  16. 
Stepney,  889. 

HL  FaiUi  ia  «be  Vaolta,  108. 
St.  George's  FieMs,  991 . 
St.  James's  Psrk,  99SU 

Palace,  939. 

St  John's  Oate,  966. 

St  Margaret's  Hill,  989. 

StMicbw4»CbB^of,ia. 

Stock  Exchange,  the,  61. 

Stockwell,304. 

St.  Panl's  Catfaednl,  95. 

School,  94. 
St.  Stephen's  Chapel,  904. 
Stieath^Vb  318. 
Singeon's  Hall,  the  New,  170, 

366. 
SwTBf  Chapel,  998. 

■■  Institntion,  the,  993. 
Sjdenl»|U9,.808. 

Temple  Bar,  161. 
■     arte,  M». 
,  the,  189.    • 

of  the  Mwtt,  45. 

Theatre,  Cov^nt  Garden.  1 87 ; 
Dmiy-Lane,  179;  the  Kfaig't, 


938 ;  the  little,  Haymaiket, 
ib.;  the  Lyoenm,  181 ;  the  Re- 
gency, 349;  the  Royalty,  978. 

Theobalds,  896. 

Tilbory  Fort,  319. 

Tilbnry,  West,  380. 

TotbiU  Fields,  930. 

Tottenham,  336. 

Tower  of  London,  18,19* 

Royal,  70. 

Tri^ty  Hcptpe,  17. 

Twickenham,  388. 

Vanxball,  8M  ;  Brid^e^  803. 
Verulam,  393. 

Walliogford  Hoose,  197. 
Wakbam  Abbey,  897. 
Wanstead,  398. 
War«^398» 
Warwick  Lane,  128. 
WaUrloo  Maseuffl,  989. 
Place,  859. 


West  Ham,  898. 
Westminster  Abbey»  910. 

— . Hall,  909. 

■  Infirmary,  980. 

Sebool,  ffl-s.^ 


West  SmilbtM^  Ua. 
White  FrWv  140. 
Whitehall,  199. 

White  Hart,  the,Bishop^te,43. 
Windsor,  390. 

WJoefasittr  HtnHj  €7.i  984, 9M 
,  WeolwpGh,  3:10,  845. 
Wren,.Sir  Chriitoifher,  363. 

York  Buildings,  191. 


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