Wanderings and excursions in North Wales

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WANDERINGS AND EXCURSIONS

IN

NORTH WALES.

BY THOMAS ROSCOE, ESQ.

V —

WITH FIFTY-ONE ENGRAVINGS, BY RADCLYFFE,

FROM DRAWINGS,

BY CATTERMOLE, COX, CRESWICK, &c.

LONDON :

C. TILT, AND SIMPKIN AND CO.
WRIGHTSON AND WEBB, BIRMINGHAJNI.

MDCCCXXXVI.

^^

TO THE

KING'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY,

THIS WORK

IS, BY ROYAL PERMISSION,

HUMBLY DEDICATED AND INSCRIBED,

BY HIS MAJESTY'S

MOST DUTIFUL, GRATEFUL,

AND OBEDIENT SERVANTS,

THE PUBLISHERS.

UNIVERSrn' OF CALIFORNIA
SATVTA BARBARA

PREFACE

Every age has its prevailing fashion, and that of the present is,
assuredly, pictorial embellishment — illustration in all its forms and
branches. Our most distinguished living poets, and, indeed, writers
of every class, seldom now reappear before the world unrecommended
by the genius of the painter, and the magic influence of the engraver.

In describing scenery familiar to almost every eye, how little chance
has the tourist at home of winning even a passing glance without
borrowing some grace from the sister arts ! This intimate and still
growing union — unlike many other unions political or social, and so
agreeable to the taste of the times — seems to derive fresh strength from
trial, (the result of advantages mutually derived, and of that goldeu
harvest not unfrequently reaped) merely by the pleasant process of both
parties agreeing to confer pleasure upon an enlightened public. Still,
in an alliance every way so desirable, and calculated to gratify both
the eye and the mind, the Author would fain enter his protest against
the glory of letters being esteemed subsidiary to any other design,
ranking, as it ought, first and pre-eminent in the march of intellect,
as in the records of the human mind. For, without the slightest idea
of challenging a controversy with his distinguished collahorateurs ,
was it not from the diviner thoughts of the Poet that the Painter first
drew the fire and energy which emboldened him to follow, and strive
to embody, those majestic creations of the muse of Homer, of Dante,
and of Milton ? Without these inspirations, could a Michael Angelo,
or a Flaxman, have exhibited scenes to startle and to rouse the
soul ■?

I'llEIAllC.

If sometimes tliey combine tlieir terrors, at others this new and
happy combination of tlie arts (happily for us, not amenable to the
laws) is of a less imposing and more gentle character; and the artist
and the author may walk arm-in-arm over the pleasant hills, by the
green valleys or the sunny shores, ever ready ' to catch the Cynthia
of the minute,' to take Nature as they find her, in her more joyous,
her passionate, her solitary, and her mournful moods. Here, at
least, their ambition has wholly been to interpret her language in a
simple and fjiithful manner. Theirs has been less a work of labour
than one of love. The Wanderer, in particular, had no view beyond
that of amusing the reader by the way-side, leaving the judicious
Artists to speak to his eye, and his imagination, in colours bright and
manifold as the rainbow.

Light and sketchey as he could make it, — drawn from no small
variety of sources, antiquarian, historical, descriptive, and anecdotical
— the Author's highest ambition has been, to make his book a plea-
sant companion, and, like a pleasant companion, to throw a charm
over an idle hour — relieve the gloom of some passing moment, a
solitary evening, a rainy day, the tedium, in short, incidental to every
tourist's path, be he a wayfarer at home, or far away.

Pie has sought to convey with fidelity his impressions of the noble
and picturesque scenery of our British Alps — of the spirit of improve-
ment every where manifested by the people — of their frank bearing, and
peculiar traits, — with occasional notices of the distinguished characters,
— warriors, bards, ornaments of the pulpit, or of the bench, — who may
have shed lustre round their native land. Most of all, he could wish
to convey some idea of the delight and the advantage to be derived,
so near at hand, from an autumnal ramble among the hills and lakes
of our ancient British home.

'"^^^-^^r^

LIST OF PLATES,

WITH THEIR PROPER PLACES IN THE WuRK.

I.— Frontispiece— THE PASS OF LLANBERIS .
II— ST. WINIFRED'S WELL ....
IIL— BRIDGE ON PENMACHNO ROAD .

IV.— PRINCE LLEWELLYN AND HIS BARONS
V._DEATH OF LLEWELLYN ....

Vignette,
. Ditto.

PAGE

Opposite 10

18

LIST OF PLATES.

PAGB

VL— CHESTER . . . . Opposite 32

VIL— FLINT CASTLE 47

VIH.-BOLINGBROKE AND KING RICHARD II. . . 51

IX.— ST. ASAPH 60

X.— RHUDDLAN CASTLE 6G

XI.— VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY 83

XII.— VALE OF LLANGOLLEN 88

XIII.— FALLS OF THE MACHNO 102

XIV.— DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE 104

XV.-BETTWS Y COED Ill

XVL— RHAIADR Y WENOL 112

XVII.— BRIDGE OVER THE LLUGWY 113

XVIII.-CAUNANT MAWR 127

XIX.— DOLBADERN TOWER 129

XX.— LLYN GWYNANT 147

XXI.— WOODEN BRIDGE, NEAR BEDDGELERT ... 131

XXII.— TRIFAEN MOUNTAIN 159

XXIII. — LLYN IDWAL 160

XXIV.— FALLS OF THE OGWEN 162

XXV.— NANT FRANGON 164

XXVI.— PENRHYN CASTLE. . 167

XXVII.— MENAI BRIDGE 169

XXVIII.— CAERNARVON CASTLE . . (Moonlight) . 170

XXIX.— CAERNARVON CASTLE 173

LIST OF PLATES.

PAOB

XXX SOUTH STACK LIGHTHOUSE . . . Opposite 179

XXXL— BEAUMARIS 183

XXXIL— ENTRANCE OF MENAI STRAITS .... 187

XXXIIL-PENMAEN 3IAWR 189

XXXIV,— CONWAY .... (General View) . 191

XXXV.— CONWAY (LiANRWST Gate) 194

XXXVI.— VALE OF THE LLUGWY 199

XXXVII— PONT Y PAIR ........ 201

XXXVIII.— PONT ABERGLASSLYN 204

XXXIX.— DISTANT VIEW OF HARLECH .... 209

XL.— SNOWDON HILLS . . (From Harlech Castle) 212

XLL— LAKE TAL Y LLYN 219

XLIL— RIVER DOVEY AT DINAS MOWDDY .... 222

XLIIL— CADER IDRIS FROM KYMMER ABBEY ... 226

XLIV.— VALE OF LLANILLTYD 228

XLV.— BARMOUTH 232

XLVI.— SCENE ON THE RIVER MAWDDACH ... 237

XLVII.— VALE OF FFESTINIOG 239

XLVIIL— RHAIADR CWM . 244

XLIX.— BALA LAKE 247

L.-RESCUE OF THE COUNTESS DE BURGH ... 256
LI.— VIGNETTE TITLE

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTORY.

CHAPTER II.

THE WARS OF EDWARD AKD LLEWELLTK — THE MARRIAGE AND DEATH OF THE

LATTER.

CHAPTER III.

CHESTER — ITS CASTLE.

CONTENTS.

♦ CHAPTER IV.

HAWARDEK— EULOl — FLINT — THE INTERVIEW BETWEEN KING KICHARD THE SECOND

AND BOLINGBROKE.

CHAPTER V.

ST. ASAPH — RHUDDLAN — ABERGELEY— AND OTHER PARTS OF FLINTSHIRE.

CHAPTER VI.

DENBIGHSHIRE — VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY— THE VALE OF LLANGOLLEN— WYNNSTAT-

CHIRK CASTLE.

CHAPTER VII.

OWEN GLENDOWER.

CHAPTER VIII.

CORWEN — CERNIOGE — DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE— BETTWS Y COED— RHAIADR Y WENOL.

CHAPTER IX.

SNOWDONIA — TRAVELLING REFLECTIONS.

CHAPTER X.

CAPEL CURIG TO BEDDGELERT— THE LAKE AND VALE OF GWYNANT.

CHAPTER XL

THE GLYDER HILLS— THE TRIFAEN MOUNTAIN — LAKE OGWEN — LLYN IDWAL— NANT

FRANC ON.

CHAPTER XII.

LLANDEGAI — PENRHYN CASTLE — BANGJR — THE MENAI BRIDGE — CAERNARVON — ITS

CASTLE.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIII.

HOLYHEAD — SOUTH STAl'K I.UIHTHOI'SK — BKAIIMAKIS, &C.

CHAPTER XIV.

ABER — FENMAKN MAWK — CONWAY — LLANRWST.

CHAPTER XV.

PONT ABERULASSLYN — CRICAETH — HARLECH — JIAENTWROG — TAN Y IIULCH.

CHAPTER XVI.

UOLGELLEY — CADEK IDUIS — TAL Y LLYN — .MACHYNNLETH — DINAS MOWDDY.

CHAPTER XVII.

KVMMER ABBEY — LLANILLTYD — BARMOUTH — TRAWSFYNYDD, &(".

CHAPTER XVIII.

FFESTINIOG— BALA, &C.

CHAPTER XIX.

LLANURJLLO — WELSllTOOL — rOWIS C ASTLE— BIONTGOJIEKY, (<C.

WlanSetrtogg t|iriDii®t 'Mmti) WluU

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTORY.

Passe where you please on plaine or mountain wikic ;
And beare yourself in sweete and civill sorte.
And you shall sure be haulst with man and childe,
Who will salute with gentle comely port
The passers by : on braves they stand not so,
Without good speeche to let a traveller go :
They thinke it dette and dutie frank and free,
In towne or fielde to yeeld you cap and knee.

Worthiness of Wales.

Old associations, and the pleasure derived from excursions in the
principahty in earUer days, and under brighter skies, were not with-
out their influence in directing the Wanderer's steps on his return
from other and distant scenes. Ties of early friendship, wann greet-
ing and hospitality, with pleasant companionship, gave additional
zest to the charm of rambling through a beautiful country, combin-
ing so many features to interest the imagination and to allure the
eye.

The old British birth-place of elf and fairy lore, famed alike for
triumphs of the sword and prizes of the lyre — to how many recollec-
tions did it give rise, as the Wanderer of many years looked back
to those 'white days' so indelibly 'marked in memory's tablets'

2 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

with the thoughts of Hawarden, Erthig, Holywell, Downing, Wynn-
stay, Penrhos, and other spots no less socially endeared. Like the
wearied pilgrim, from some far-off clime, he seemed to renew his
existence as the scenes familiar to his boyhood dawned upon him,
— again he breathed the freshness of his morning hours, and im-
pressions never wholly effaced filled his mind with mournful plea-
sure; for he now beheld the ancient seat of his forefathers,* the
spires of his native sea-port, and the wild blue hills of Cambria
minujling with the distance.

They were still the same ; but he looked as a stranger upon the
old halls endeared to his childhood; — 'his pleasant places' were
filled with another youthful race — other faces which he knew not —
and it seemed as if an absorbing love of the past, strong as the mo-
tives which led to the pious pilgrimages of old, dictated his onward
course : —

" Where, on the summit of the mountain brow,
Frowns many a hoary tower, bold Cambria's chiefs,
Waving the banner'd dragon, dared to arms
The Norman host. Breathing his native strains^
Hoel, or lofty Taliessin, oft
At the dim twilight hour, in pensive mood^
Amid the silent halls o'ergrown with briars,
Recals the festivals of old, when blazed
The giant oak, and chieftains crown'd with mead
The sculptured horn, while the high vaulted roof
Re-echo'd to the honoured minstrel's harp.f"
A strange feeling of the fleeting tenure of all human enjoyments
filled his heart, as the Wanderer turned away and bent his steps
towards the ancient retreats of British independence. With thoughts
more awake to the memorable past, and to the scenes before him,
from the circumstance of his previous rambles, he recognized many
a favourite spot of his summer and autumnal haunts, when he was
wont to spend days and weeks in exploring the wildest recesses of

* Caerleon, the cnlnp of the Legion. — Chester.
t A Tour throujjh Parti of Wales.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. t3

the old glens, and lakes, and hills. And where is the human being
who has not, like the Wanderer, had reason to contemplate, with
sensations too strong for utterance, some well-remembered spot —
who has not felt himself belonging to the past, even while, by his
anticipations, he has turned tremblingly to catch the shadows of the
mysterious future ? It is in the presence of the mouldering monu-
ments of ages past away — of a beloved country whose fame and
splendour have vanished — of the old woods and hills no longer his
own — that we can best sjonpathize with the transient show, and the
sufferings of humanity, like the vanquished Roman who sat amidst
the ruins of a fallen empire and wept.

In its monumental grandeur, — with the foot of heroic nations
every where upon its soil, — no country presents objects of more
peculiar and varied interest than Wales.

The prize of contending invaders, it was long the strong-hold of
genuine British valour, and maintained, upwards of twelve centuries,
unequal conflicts with nations far more powerful, yielding only on
condition of being governed by a prince bom in the country. And
have not thesonsof British kings, ever since the last of its heroic
Llewellyns, assumed the name of Wales as the proudest of their titles?

Nothing more clearly proves the importance attached to its pos-
session than this simple historical fact. Nor does the voluminous
character of the works devoted to its illustration tend to diminish
the curiosity with which we retrace its annals — call to mind its
former power; and now its great natural advantages — its increasing
usefulness and prosperity. No traveller enters the principality
without being surprised with evidences of its singular history ; its
numerous antiquities being no less striking than its splendid and
romantic scenery.

The arena of successive and fierce struggles, commencing with
the dawn of the christian era — here met the Roman, the Saxon,
the Dane, the Norman; and all these blending in the resistless
English, Cambria still continued to bear a conspicuous part in the
grand drama of British power and greatness.

4 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

Tlio reduction of the native inhabitants and princes, in tlieir
mountain fastnesses, required the lapse of ages and the strength of
combined nations to acconipUsh. These persevering efforts to vin-
dicate their freedom gave rise to extraordinary exploits, which,
terrible as is the picture of Cambrian wars, powerfully appeal to the
imagination and sympathies of the reader. No subject, indeed,
could be mentioned, which better repays the inquiries of the learned
or the curious — even considered as a pleasant pursuit — than the
earlier portions of Welsh history.

Allusion need scarcely be made to the popular belief respecting
the Celtic origin of the Cymri or Welsh, in common with the ancient
Gauls, and so many nations of the west. Nor is there much space
to indulge in antiquarian researches respecting the language, the
religion, or the druidical institutions of the country. But that devoted
hereditary attachment shewn by the Britons for their native princes
and their bards, a characteristic, doubtless from which sprung the
genealogical study and pride of ancestry, so long held in high and
honourable esteem, cannot be mentioned without applause.

The pedigrees of the princes and nobles of the land, in fact,
formed an essential portion of Cambrian history ; and to trace them
was the peculiar province of the learned even till the days of Eliza-
beth. To fix the descent of noble tribes thus became no less the
object of the bards than the celebration of warlike exploits; and
there is no necessity to go back to the Phcenicians or the Romans, to
shew their veneration for a custom originating in human nature, and
more deeply engrafted on the character of the country from the
peculiar circumstances which surrounded it.

It was from this fertile source Tysilio drew his information of
the patriarch Brutus ; and hence also the authority of the Triades,
and the curious fragments of the bardish records up to the sixth
centur)'.

Through ages of despotism, in short, not less than under the
iron sway of feudal vassalage,— the patriotic bards formed the most
intelligent order of the Cambro-Britons. They preserved, in some

WANDERINGS THUOUGH NORTH WALES. 5

degree, the lineaments of humanity ; they commemorated the strug-
gles of their countrymen in strains worthy of liberty, such as brought
down upon their heads the vengeance of the royal invaders.*

The 'Gododin' of the great Aneuryn, — extolled alike by Milton,
by Gray, and Warton, — re-echoes, in wild and plaintive numbers,
the feelings of the few distinguished patriots retreating from the
hard-fought field ; for of those few, like the unhappy Dante, was the
poet himself.

From the ninth until nearly the twelfth centur)^, the bards, au-
thorized by their princes, classed the leading families into twenty
tribes, of which five were declared royal and fifteen common.

Other founders of the old families, branches of which still
exist in the modern gentry, — though not included in the tribes, —
were distinguished for surpassing merit, and are no less honour-
ably recorded both in history and by the muse.

The sense thus entertained of patriotic worth was shewn by the
indignation excited against the name of the treacherous Jestyn's hav-
ing found its way into the Royal Registry, while that of Brochwel,
a noble prince of Powis, who held Peng^vern (Shrewsbury) for his
capital, had been passed over unnoticed. Two only of these inter-
esting records have hitherto seen the light; and Mr. Yorke, of Erthig,
in his amusing work on the Royal Tribes, — which it is to be regretted
he never completed, — laments that so many valuable documents of
ancient British history had yet to appear, and still wore only their
Hative garb.f

* Lochlin ploughs the watery way ;
There the Norman sails afar.
Catch the winds, and join the war ;
Black and huge along they sweep,
Burthens of the angry deep.

Triumph of Owen, — Gray.

t Alluding to the Triades, Tysilyo ; the Latin works of Ncnnius, Giraldus, Paris,
Polydore, Verunius, Pryce, Llwyd, Powel, and Caius ; all indeed relating to Wales.
They were, and still are for the most part, without Translations, though thoy have suj)-
{jlied valuable materials, and still more frequent authorities for the works of other writers.

6 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALKS.

The fifteen coinmon tribes, with the respective representatives of
each, formed the nobility, and to this source do the present
nobihty, and land owners of the principality, chiefly owe their
descent. So enthusiastic, indeed, were the family attachments of
the bards, and such the national veneration for the rights of lineage,
that, in 1079, Griffith, son of Cynan, ranking first in the roll of the
Royal Tribes, recovered his crown of North Wales from the Prince
elect, Trahaern ap Caradog, at the battle of Carno. As lineal de-
scendant of the great Roderick, he obtained the supremacy of the
entire principality in accordance with one of the laws of his ancestor^,
Ilowel Dda, or Ilowel the Good, that the princes of South Wales
and Powis should be considered tributary to the north.

Unfortunately for the peace and independence of the counti*y, the
respect for Royal Tribes and pure descent was not hedged in by
the dinnity of indefeasible right — by that idol of personal impor-
tance— the accuniulative law of primogeniture, which combines and
perpetuates power, and by that of legitimacy, which preserves it in
a distinctive branch.

The line of succession, on the other hand, was arbitrarily broken,
both by the princes and the nobility, while the equal division of
property hy f/avel kind further augmented the evils and distractions
consequent upon a series of invasions by fomiidable foes. In
seasons of emergency, indeed, the confederated princes elected a
dictator, who bore the title of Pendragon (head of all Britain),
and among such are to be found the Arthurs and the Alfreds of
their heroic times.* This rare dignity was of old confined to one
imperial line ; but subsequently extended to two of its branches —
the Cynethian and Cornwall families, till it ceased in the person of
the last king of the ancient Britons.f

From the invasion of Caesar until the reign of Griffith, in the
twelfth century, the calamities of intestine feuds and foreign thral-

• For Mjme admirable pictures of those bold and chivalrous days, the reader is referred
to the poems -of Warton, Gray, the minor poems of Milton, and their followers.

t Cadwalladcr.

WAxnEurNGS Tiinoroij xortii wai^es. 7

dom had their source in the mistaken policy of subdividing laws.
Thus, after his victory at Carno, this martial prince is said to have
been surprised, and thrown into prison, by his rival. He escaped
only, after long durance, by the daring act of a young Welshman,
Kynrig Hir^ or the Tall, who, taking advantage of the inebriety of the
gaoler, carried away his prince, laden as he was with irons, on his
back. Surviving to the age of eighty-two, this able ruler reigned
for a period of fifty-seven years, equally annoyed, it is stated, by his
enemies the English, and by his friends the Welsh. He fought hand
to hand with that hardy baron, Fitzwarren, entrusted by Henry I.
with the care of the marches, and finally wrested from him his castle
of Whittington. Accomplished as brave, he improved the national
minstrelsy, introducing from Ireland, then the 'land of harps,'
some of the fine old melodies, abler performers, and a better oi'der
of instruments. He further regulated the great family pedigrees, —
no trivial task, — and fixed the various heraldic distinctions of his
illustrious countr-jTnen.

' Sus horridus, atraque Tigris

Squamosusque Draco, et fulva cervice Lecena.'

But what redounds less to his credit, he is said to have been the
first to promulgate the system of the British game laws. The
founder also of the House of Gwyder, among his descendants, he
ranks Sir John Wynn, the historian, whose account of his journey to
court contains many curious particulars of the times. In his deal-
ings with the church, and even with his own countrymen. Sir John
was considered too close and shrewd a bargainer, and a tradition is
yet current, that the sprite of the old gentleman does penance under
the great water-fall of Rhaiader y Wennol — there to be purged and
spouted upon till purified from all his overreaching acts — 'foul
deeds done in his days of nature.'

' Aliis sub gurgite vasto

lufectum eluitur scelus.'

CHAPTER 11.

THE DEATH OF LI.EWEI.LYX.

Ye that o'er IVIenai's darkened wave impend ;

Majestic battlements ! Thou tower sublime,

From whose broad brows the slender turret springs,

Light as the plumage from the warrior's helm,

The pensive bard, of Edward's martial fame

Regardless, from your splendid ruin turns

Aside to mourn o'er sad Llewellyn's fate.

Sotheby's Tour.

History has recorded few events more replete with pathetic
interest than the fate of the last of the Llewellyns, justly entitled
* the Great : * for at the moment he fell, a victim to treachery, he
left his country in battle array upon the sides of her majestic Snow-
don, and her fall as rapidly followed upon his own. When we track
his bold and able movements, in the various campaigns against a
powerful and overwhelming enemy, as they are described by the
old historians, and while we gaze on the spot where he closed his
sad and chequered career, we feel as much admiration of his genius
and patriotism, as sorrow for his untimely doom. With eager curi-
osity we examine the route he is described to have taken in his last
daring expedition into South Wales, while Edward lay encamped
on the plains of Snowdon, eluding the vigilance of his wary foe,
and still holding the strong peisses, the fortified positions, and once
magnificent castle of the King of Mountains. Step by step we trace
the line of march, pointed out by the Welsh chroniclers of this last
and most arduous of all his exploits, by which he made himself
master — with a view of reinforcing his army — of great part of South
Wales. As in most of his actions with the English, ability, decision,

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 9

and rapidity of movement are the prominent features of that fatal,
yet memorable effort to break the bonds of his unhappy country.
And strenuously as his royal predecessors had asserted her indepen-
dence, and the faith and right of treaties, when that independence
was lost, — no one seems to have combined so many noble and
amiable qualities with so much martial skill and energy, or
to have been equally admired and beloved. His influence
enabled him to unite the most factious princes and nobles in one
common cause ; his wisdom directed their counsels, and opened the
way with his sword to renewed and simultaneous exertions, which
ceased only with his life.

A series of brilliant actions during the minority of Edward I,
whom he had thus early foiled in the field, gave rise, it is said, to a
personal animosity in that prince, to be appeased only by the down-
fal of Llewellyn and his people.

The humiliations suffered by Edward when a prisoner with his
royal father in the hands of the haughty Leicester, who entered into
close alliance with the Welsh prince, and bore his captives as
state pageants along with him, must, doubtless, have embittered his
feelings when King of England. It could not be more strongly
shewn than by the manner of his taking advantage of the long
romantic passion entertained by Llewellyn for Eleanora de Mont-
ford, to whom he had been aflianced in her childhood, as an addi-
tional bond of union between the Earl and himself. She even then
gave promise of the rare beauty and superior accomplishments, both
of mind and person, for which she was subsequently so distinguished,
and which changed the policy of the prince into the impassioned
tenderness of an ardent lover. Nor, though so early formed, does
the attachment seem to have been only on Llewelljai's side ; young
as she was, the impression made on her tender years, by the amiable
qualities of the prince, was not such as either time or distance could
efface. The league was broken up; her father had in turn been
vanquished — had died ; and her lover was no longer the successful
champion of his country, nor master of his own dominions. The

10 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

banners of England waved over almost every city and fortress where
Llewellyn hud held undisputed sway ; the sword of Edward had
deprived him of all but the wild barren region of Snowdon, the last
refuge and hope of the brave. A powerful king was his deadly
enemy; the church had fulminated its heaviest maledictions upon
his head ; his brother had become an English peer, and bore arms
against him ; while his suffering countrjTuen, groaning under the
heaviest oppression, looked with imploring eyes to him alone for
succour. Power, splendour, and authority had departed from him ;
a triumphant king and a subservient church would readily have
relieved the lovely countess from her early vows ; but, in his extre-
mity, her woman's heart was still true to the vanquished and
fallen prince.

She had retired to France where she completed her education,
and subsequently became the pride and ornament of courts, — splen-
did offers of the high-born and the powerful were laid at her feet ;
she was tempted even by crowned heads to forsake LlewelljTi, for
she was niece to Henry III, and first cousin to the martial Edward:
but she still remembered and loved him — loved him, perhaps, more
deeply because he was the unhappy object of a mighty king's and a
great nation's unforgiving wrath. The memory of the hours she had
spent in that beautiful land, with her father and noble lover at her
side, — of the splendid Aber,* and the wild secluded scenes midst
which her young imagination had first reflected the image of that
love she was told to cherish — still, perhaps, haunted her in the
festive throng and liveried court, and whispered her how much more
beautiful and noble, how joyful and reviving to the bosom of him,
abandoned almost by hope, would it be for her, in all this faithless-
ness of fortune, to be ' still faithful found.'

One beam of light then still shone on the path of Llewellyn, as he
yet held his enemy at bay in the mountain fortress of his little king-

* Thf! Palace of Aber, in Caernarvon, the favourite residence of Llewellyn in times of
war as well as in peace.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 11

dom. The adherents of the House of Moutford were still power-
ful ; and the fame of the English monarch had made him the object
of jealousy with the French king. The prince now demanded the
daughter of the late Earl of Leicester from the French court.
Philip granted his request, and Llewellyn waited in impatient ex-
pectation for his bride.

Early in 1'276, attended by her brother, a clergyman, she set sail
for the coast of Wales ; but had the misfortune to be captured by
four ships from Bristol, and was conveyed to the English court.
Here she was detained in honourable attendance upon the Queen,
her brother being imprisoned during many years, and released only
on condition of leaving the kingdom for ever.

The feelings of Llewellyn may be easily imagined ; he was soon
in arms, descending from his mountains, and spreading terror and
devastation through the English borders. He subsequently offered
a large sum for the ransom of his bride ; but aiins and negociation
alike failed to move the stern purpose of the English king. As
vainly the latter summoned the prince to appear, as his vassal, at the
court ; till, exasperated by his refusal, Edward bore down upon the
devoted country with the whole strength of his military talents and
resources, both of which were great. Retreating to his mountain
fastnesses, Llewellyn was surrounded on all sides, his communi-
cations were cut off, he beheld his countrymen perishing by
famine ; and, after many fruitless efforts, was compelled to throw
himself upon the mercy of the enemy. The most harsh and humi-
liating terms were exacted; among the rest, that he should attend
the conqueror to London, there to do homage before the assembled
nobles and prelates of the land.

At the English court he again beheld the lady of his early choice,
nor did she desert him even now, when the object of secret pity or
contempt to other eyes. Perhaps the consciousness of possessing
the love of one so truly noble enabled him to endure his sufferings
with gi-eater equanimity, and to make those concessions which no
other power could have wrung from him. Before the celebration of

12

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

his marriage, he was compelled to enter into a contract to appear
t\vice cveiy year before the English Parliament. Edward then
restored the hostages he had received, and the estates belonging to
the deceased earl. As a further mark of his Royal favour, the nup-
tials were to be graced by the presence of the King and Queen.
Yet, on the day Llewellyn was to receive the hand of a niece
of Henry III, Edward ungenerously stopt the procession as
they were going to mass, and required Llewellyn to enter into
a covenant, never to protect any person whatsoever contrary to
his pleasure. Being wholly in the king's power, and equally
impelled by love and policy, he affected to submit, aware at the
same time that to repel such an insult would only tend to acce-
lerate the ruin of himself and his country. In so arbitrary an act,
enforced at such a moment, we are at a loss to discover any traces
of that heroic gallantry, or those courtesies towards a fallen foe,
which marked the cultivated period of European chivaliy. Edward's
insatiable ambition, perhaps, — even under the guise of lenity, — was
only more securely smoothing the way to the complete possession of
the principality : by the severity of his government, he subsequently
drove the Welsh to desperation, and, after violating every clause of
the compact, accused their prince of having broken the engage-
ments he had signed, ever the tyrant's plea for annexing another
realm to his crown.

Nor was the position of the princes and nobles, who had attended
Llewellyn to the English court, more enviable than his own. The
Barons of Snowdon, having done homage before Edward on Christ-
mas-day, were quartered, with large retinues, at Islington and the
adjacent villages. We are told they liked neither the wine nor the
ale of London, and sufficient milk could not be procured for so
numerous a train ; though plentifully entertained, they were much
displeased with the new manner of living, so little suited to their
usual habits. They held the English bread in contempt; and their
pride was greatly hurt by the perpetual staring of the Londoners,
who came to see them, following in crowds to gaze at their uncom-

WANDERINGS Til HOUGH NORTH WALES. l.j

mon garb, as if they had been barbarians from some newly-discovered
land. * No,' cried the indignant Britons, ' never again will we visit
Islington; we will die in our country as freemen rather than come,
as England's vassals, to be the sport of a haughty vindictive mas-
ter. '

Llewellyn almost immediately after his marriage retired into
Wales, where the amiable and excellent qualities of his consort —
which had done so much to soothe the irritated feelings of both
parties — prevented, for a season, any fresh manifestation of aspe-
rity. An interval of repose, in fact, which lasted two years, followed
their return; when the early death of the lovely and faithful
Eleanora seemed to snap the only tie which held both the princes
and the people in temporary amity.* The grief of Llewellyn, and
the lament of his favourite bards, on this occasion, are touching in
the extreme ; and brief as was her abode with Llewellyn and his
people, her memory was embalmed in their tears.

It was now evidently Edward's design to annex Wales to the
English crown. Among other cherished traditions of the Welsh was
the favourite prophecy of the re-appearance of the celebrated
Arthur, destined to restore the empire of the ancient Britons. To
remove a national impression so inimical to his views, Edward,
with his queen, undertook a journey to Glastonbury, where the
remains of that venerated hero lay inhumed.

Under the pretext of doing honour to the British king, by a new
and more magnificent interment, he orderd the body to be taken
out of its coffin, M ith that of Gweniver his queen, and to be exlii-
bited to public view. They were then deposited near the high altar,
with an inscription on the coffin announcing, that these were the bones
of the deceased Arthur; that they had been viewed by the King
and Queen of England, in presence of the Earl of Savoy, the Bishop
of Norwich, and many others of the nobility and clergy.

* Welsh Chronicle, p. 348. — Eleanora de Montford died in giving birth to a daughter,
in the year 1280.

14 WANDEIUNUS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

The discontent excited by the nobles, who had attended Llewel-
lyn into England, was increased by the stern relentless policy of
Edward, and his detennination to alter the institutions and customs
of the country. His conduct towards their prince was of the same
oppressive character. Suits at law instituted both against him and
his brother David, were unifonnly decided in favour of the English
claimants, and they were repeatedly summoned to appear in person,
at different places, in order to receive judgment. But since the
death of his consort, the Welsh prince had refused to attend the
personal summons of King Edward, and the following remarkable
occurrence is probably connected with one or other of these vexa-
tious proceedings, so deeply wounding to the feelings of a descendant
of an ancient line of kings. Edward being at Aust Ferry on the
Severn, and knowing that the Prince of Wales was on the opposite
side, sent him an invitation to come over the river, that they might
confer on some matters in dispute. This being declined by
Llewellyn, Edward procured a boat and crossed over to the Welsh
Prince, who, struck with the apparent nobleness of the action, threw
himself into the water to receive him, telling the king at the same
time that his humility had conquered his pride, and his wisdom
triumphed over his folly.

In the year 1281, the spirit of general resistance to the English
laws received a powerful accession in the Prince's brother, David,
who privately withdrew from the English court. He opened the
campaign by the storming of Hawarden Castle ; after which the
two brothers, uniting their forces, invested the castles of Flint and
Rhuddlan. From their hills and vallics the Welsh rushed to join
their countrjTiien ; and, north and south, the country rose once
more in arms. Fortress after fortress fell before the storm of national
vengeance and despair ; until at length it burst upon the English
borders, ravaging the marches from end to end.

The King of England meantime was keeping his Easter at
Devizes; on being acquainted with the extent of the evil, he
rose up, and, in the vehemence of his passion, swore that nothing

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 15

less than the entire subjugation of Llewellyn and his countn' should
henceforth satisfy him. He wrote to the two archbishops requiring
them to fulminate the most terrible denunciations of the church
against the Welsh prince and all his adherents.

Nor was Edward supported only by the temporal and spiritual
power of England. Gaston de Bern, and many foreign auxiliaries,
were eager for the honour of serving in the Welsh expedition, like
Cossacks scenting blood in the rear of some Russian autocrat. Of
the sense entertained of the difficulties and duration of such a war,
we have ample proof in the removal of the Barons of the Exche-
quer and the Judges of the King's Bench, who repaired to hold
their courts at Shrewsbury.

In April 1282, Edward began his march towards Chester; he
encamped upon Saltney Marsh; and, about the middle of June,
took the Castle of Hope. The Welsh raised the siege of Rhuddlan,
retreating slowly on his approach. So well had Llewellyn taken
his measures, that the enemy, powerful as he was, made no pro-
gress till the close of the year. The Archbishop of Canterbury
then came into Wales, and interposing his good offices intreated
Llewellyn in frequent interviews to offi^r an unconditional sur-
render. The prince in reply made a public declaration, that as
the ' guardian of his people's safety, his conscience alone should
direct his submission ; nor would he consent to any compliance
which might derogate from the dignity of his station.' On this
memorable answer being reported to Edward, he reiterated his
resolution to compel the prince and his people to submit without
any conditions whatsoever.

Meanwhile the Prince continued at his palace of Aber, with his
army stationed on the heights of Penmaen Mawr, the strongest
fortification of the entire Snowdon region, with a fortress capable
of containing twenty thousand men.

The spirit of a free constitution, and an ardour for national
liberty, breathes in every line of the pathetic memorials of the
Welsh princes ; nor can we behold, without admiration, a small and

16 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

scattered people thus manfully asserting their rights from their last
mountain barriers, in the face of an overpowering enemy.

On the first of November, 1282, Edward left Rhuddlan and
advanced to Conway, where he took up strong positions ; his horse
being encamped on the plains at the foot of Snowdon ; his infantry
on the sides of the hills, under cover of the woods. Anglesea soon
fell, and Edward prepared to pass the Menai to gain possession of
the enemy's rear.

Opposite Bangor is a point of land called Moel y Donne, from
which the English made a bridge of boats, wide enough for sixty
men to march abreast: the Welsh, on their side, threw up in-
trenchments to secure the passes. Before the bridge was quite
complete, a party of the English, attended by the Gascon lords and
a body of Spanish troops, passed at low water without opposi-
tion. They were suffered to advance ; but, as soon as the river
had risen, the nearest body of the Welsh nished from their
position, and routed the English with great slaughter. Fifteen
knights and one thousand soldiers were thus slain or perished in
the Menai. The winter now approached, and Edward's situation
was becoming critical ; the Welsh were still masters of the
defiles, animated by success, and relying still more on the old
prophecy of Merlin, that Llewellyn should one day wield the sceptre
of the founder of their empire. It is recorded that the prince him-
self consulted a reputed prophetess, who advised him to pursue the
enterprize, for that in the end he would 'ride through Cheapside
with a crown upon his head.' Edward being constrained to retire
to the Castle of Rhuddlan, the Welsh were eager to become the
aggressors; but their leader, not conceiving himself sufficiently
strong to assume the offensive, meditated the hardy design of
recruiting his army by carrying the war into the south. Leaving
his brother in possession of the Snowdonian camp and passes, by a
night march he eluded the enemy — reached the south — overran the
territories of Cardigan and Strath Towi, and arrived by rapid
movements in the Cantreo of Buelt, where he had agreed to hold

WANDERINGS TIIROUGH NORTH WALES. 17

a conference with certain lords of the marches. He had in so far
accompHshed his object ; he had nothing to fear from the southern
quarter, but was anxious to secure the only pass into the country by
which danger might arise from the north. Having posted, therefore,
his main army on a mountain, near the Wye, he placed a body of
troops at Pont Orewyn, which commanded the passage over that
river.* Thus secured from any fear of surprize, Llewellyn, unarmed
and attended only by his squire, proceeded into the valley,
where he had agreed to meet the lords with whom he had
entered into secret correspondence. There is every reason to con-
clude that he was betrayed ; for the moment after his departure. Sir
Edmund Mortimer, with a strong force, attacked the bridge, while
Walwyn, a native of the country, pointed out to the enemy a passage
through the river a little lower down. Assaulted in front and rear,
the Welsh, after a severe contest, abandoned the post, and the English
passed over. Llewellyn, meantime, was waiting in a small grove,
the place appointed for the interview; but none of the border
chiefs appeared, and soon his squire ran towards him, declaring that
he heard a great clamour at the bridge. The prince inquired if
his troops were in possession of it, and being assured that they
were, replied that he need not stir though the whole power of
England were on the other side the river.

But in a few minutes the grove was surrounded by the enemy's
horse.f Li his attempt to escape, he was seen and pursued by
Adam de Francton, who, perceiving him to be a Welshman, and
ignorant of his quality, plunged his spear into the prince's body,
unanmed as he was and incapable of defence.^ Regardless of his
person, the English knight passed on to rejoin his own army,
already engaged with the Welsh. They fought with uncommon
bravery and obstinacy, though uncheered by the presence of their
great leader, who, as he lay mortally wounded without friend or foe

* Holinshead.
t Welch Chronicle, p. 374. t Knyghton.

C

18 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALKS.

by his side, must have heard the din of the h\st of his battles — the
knell of his country's freedom — as it fell sad and heavily upon
his ear. Alone and expiring, he thus continued during three
fearful hours, while the contest remained doubtful ; and it ended
not in the defeat of his countrymen till they left two thousand
dead upon the field.

When found, Llewellvn had just life enough remaining to ask for
a priest, and a white friar who happened to be present, admin-
istered to the dying prince the last sacred rites of his holy office.
On viewing the body, it was discovered, to the great joy of the
English army, that the dying person was no other than the Prince
of Wales. No sooner had he expired than his head was cut off by
Adam de Francton, and presented to the King, — who at that time
resided in the Abbey of Conway, — as a precious gift. The body lay
unburied for some time, though there were numerous solicitations
that it might be interred in consecrated ground. The lady Matilda
Longespee, among others, interested herself in obtaining this last
poor boon. Small as it was, it was not granted till the dead body
of the prince had received absolution from the Archbishop of
Canterbury, upon the supposition that he had shown signs of
penitence during his last moments by asking for a priest.

It may not be uninteresting to add the account preserved by the
inhabitants of Buelt to this day, respecting so singular and fatal an
event. Llewellyn had posted his araiy on a hill near Mochryd, a
village about three miles below Buelt, on the south side of the Wye.
On the north side, two miles further, the prince had a house at
Aberedwy, to which he came for the purpose of conferring with
some chiefs : during his stay, he was alarmed by the approach of
English troops who had secret intelligence of his situation. To
extricate himself, the prince caused his horse's shoes to be reversed,
as the snow was on the ground ; but owing to the treachery of the
smith, he was so closely pursued that he had only just time to
secure the draw-bridge, at Buelt, in his retreat.

Meantime, the English troops posted at Aberedwy, had infonna-

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 19

tion of a ford a little lower down, called Cefn Twm Bacli, which
they crossed, and by that means came between Llewellyn and his
army. The only chance of safety now left was to secrete himself.
But he was at length found in a narrow dingle, in which he lay
concealed, three miles north of Buelt, and about five from his
army ; the place was afterwards called Cicm Llewellyn. They cut
off his head, and buried him near the spot ; at some subsequent
period, a house was erected over his grave, which goes by the name
of Cefn-y-Bedd, or the top of the grave.

Heroic Prince ! when o'er Carnarvon waved
The crimson flag of conquest, mid the pomp
Of festal sports — when yon proud castle rung
To Edward's triumph — thy insulted head,
Gaze of vile crowds, stood on Augustus' tower,
With ivy wreath and silver diadem,
Adorn'd in mockery of Brutus old,
And Merlin's mystic verse. Sotliehy.

The following dirge written by his aged bard, Gryffith, the son
of Ynad, is deeply embued with the grief felt by the people for the
loss of the last and greatest of their leaders, and their favorite
prince : —

On every wind, o'er hill and glen, come sounds of woe and wailing, —
As erst on Camlan's plains were heard*, — of Britain's glory failing, —
And tears from every eye are poured, free as her mountain springs.
While Cambria's dying bard thus mourns her lord — her last of kings,
Llewellyn ! oh, the loss of thee, it is the loss of all, —
Fallen ! and horror chills my blood — I see my country fall.
Break heart, ere thoughts of my loved lord, and of his generous soul,
To madness goad my burning brain, nor hear his death-knell toll.
See, the majestic forests bow ! with thee all nature bled,
The ocean heaved his oozy depths, the sun glared strange and red ;
From out their spheres did planets start — to us the day is doom.
And night, amidst these woods and wilds, enshrouds our living tomb.
Freedom and song alike expire — 'would 'twere the end of all ;
But vainly on a world of crime the wrath of heaven I call.

* The spot where the great Arthur was mortally wounded.

20 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

There is no green spot in the waste, our anguished thoughts to rest ;
No spot, midst our far mountain-homes, but foemen's foot hath prest.
Most wretched men, where shall ye flee to lay the wearied head ?
Where fate — swift fate pursueth not, the sword and famine dread ;
Proud Edward's wrath — and worse than wrath — the bondage of his will,
That tramples on your spirits bowed till vengeance hath its fill.f

t In offering this hasty version from the Welch Chronicle, the author is sensible of hav-
ing lost much of the power and beauty of the fine old lament ; but he is happy in an
occasion of referring all those interested in the subject to an original production contained
in a little volume of poems by William Stanley Roscoe. It is entitled ' Llewelli/n.' —
(See Blackwood's Magazine for February, 1835.)

J

CHAPTER III.

CHESTER.

Here in the sultriest season let him rest,

Fresh is the green beneath those aged trees;

Here winds of gentlest wing will fan his breast,

From Heaven itself ho may inhale the breeze :

The plain is far beneath — Oh ! let him seize

Pure pleasure while he can ; the scorching ray

Here pierceth not, impregnate with disease;
Then let his length the loitering pilgrim lay.
And gaze, untired, the morn, the noon, the eve away,'

Childe Harold.

The Deva of the old Britons, and the Roman ' City of the Legions,'
Chester, abounds in too many interesting associations to be passed
over in silence. Justly proud of her ancient loyalty, her high-born
families, and the unbroken spirit exhibited in all her vicissitudes,
she is still more enviable, perhaps, for the quiet prosperity and
dio-nified ease of these her later days. The extensive sweep of
her once formidable and castellated walls proclaims her former
greatness; and, at every step, the thoughtful stranger is reminded
that he beholds a 'city of the past.'

Rising boldly above the Dee, its singular construction and angu-
lar streets attest its Roman origin;* while altars, arms, statues,
coins, and relics of baths, equally prove that it was a grand military

* The old monkish authorities, particularly that of Ranulph, would lead us to infer the
contrary, as it is quaintly expressed in the following curious rhymes : —
' The founder of this city as saith Polycronicon,
Was Leon Gaure, a mighty strong giant.
Who builded caves and dungeons many a one.

•22 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

Station of the conquerors of the world. The name of the twentieth
legion, entitled Jlctrix, has been often found inscribed on tiles and
votive altars; the Saxon and the Dane left the track of their
devastating career, and the Norman conquerors here prepared
their expeditions to attack the last mountain-holds of the ancient
Briton.

It is recorded that while in the possession of the invading Saxon,
the Royal Edgar was rowed up the river Dee by eight tributary
kings, his majesty of Scotland being one of these rare and unwilling
bargemen. And Chester is entitled to our especial regard as the
field of early British chivalry ; the capital of the proud earls, — or
rather viceroys, — of Chester, in the days of the Norman conqueror,
seated in their halls, challenging the smiles of beauty and the palm
of honour in their far-famed jousts, enlivened by the 'merry and
wise conceits,' the comic prophecies and freakish enchantments
recorded of the Welsh Merlin.* How amusingly has the faithful
Giraldusf painted ' the form and body ' of those bold and busy
times, so full of quaint humour, and a succession of wonders which
keep fancy and suspense continually on the alert. They are
times which tradition has consecrated, and it is hoped that, spite
of steam and laughter-scaring science, they may still play round

No goodly building, nc proper, ne pleasant ;
But King Loir, a Britain fine and valiant,
Was founder of Chester by pleasant building
And was named Guerlier by the King.'

* Many of which would alTord admirable materials for the inexhaustible pencil of that
unrivalled genius, and exquisite delineator of true British humour — a magician also in his
way — George Cruikshank.

t Giraldus Cambrcnsis, who gives us the following singular proof of GeoflTrcy of
ISIonmouth's want of veracity: — In the neighbourhood of Ciiester, it seems, was a man
named Melerius, who, in consequence of having had an intrigue with a young lady on the
eve of Palm Sunday, was ever after, more or less, tormented by devils. Though quite
illiterate, he could ascertain the true from the false passages in books, because the former
drove away, while the latter attracted round him crowds of evil spirits. ' When
Geoffrey's Chronicle,* says Giraldus, 'was brought to him, and he began to read, not
only did the demons come perching upon his whole body, but upon every page of the
book as fast as he turned it over, in a manner quite unusual with other books.'

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 23

the imagination and the heart — familiar to our lips as household
words, and continue to delight us in the closet, at the festive
game, and on the mimic boards. Honour, patriotism, and
generosity, — all those ' high thoughts seated in a heart of courtesy,'
which form the mirror of sovereigns, and the idol of a people, and
which often rescue monarchy itself from the brand of history, — are
ever freshly associated with our ideas of Arthur and of Alfred —
recollections more useful and ennobling than may, on first reflec-
tion, appear. It is not improbable that the traditional loyalty and
devotedness of this ancient city, and its surrounding territory, may
have had their origin in some such feelings, in veneration for the
greatness of mind and patriotic actions which threw lustre round a
few of the early British sovereigns, and the more courtly Normans
who once sat within her walls.

Among the former of these, no single prince stands so conspicu-
ously forth from the common herd of rulers as the redoubted hero
of the ' Round Table,' and whether we look to British chronicle
or fable, no country can advance a fairer title to the honour of
calling him her champion than Wales in the days of her greatness,
— not fallen as she subsequently appeared, depopulated, impover-
ished, presenting on all sides the fragments of mightier times, the
wreck of prouder cities, towers, and palaces. It is this ample
evidence of a once nobler state of Cambrian government, society,
and institutions, which favours the idea that the Artus fortis et
facetus, as he is so happily described, could have been no unreal
personage.* Nearly all the great and popular qualities which
combine to make a prince respected and beloved seem to have met
in his character. As regards kings, the voice of posterity generally
speaks the truth; and time, instead of magnifying, invariably
reduces them to their true proportions. The illustrious ' few and
far between,' therefore, whose reputation lives and glows through

* The writer is pleased in recalling to mind that the late Sir James Mackintosh, in
conversing on this subject, took up precisely the same view of Arthur's real greatness
and he subsequently put his opinion on record.

24 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

all time, must have possessed commanding genius and rich desert.
Among these, the brave, accomplished, and affable Arthur was the
facile princeps of his heroic age, and a character every way con-
genial with British feelings and tastes.

About the period of Arthur's birth, in the sixth century, druidism
was greatly on the decline. The conquests of the Saxons had
extended as far as the Severn and the Humber. His learned
contemporary, the mystic Merlin, soon began to busy himself with
the future destiny of a son of the great Uther Pendragon, who had
wrested the crown from the usurping Vortigern, but who died
before Arthur had reached his seventeenth year. Entrusted by
Merlin, who appears to have been prime-conjuroi- as well as min-
ister of the deceased monarch, to the guardianship of that pink of
chivalry. Sir Antour, Arthur's minority soon drew to a close.
Already celebrated for his prophecies and his inchantments,
Merlin hit upon an ingenious device for securing the young
prince's succession to the throne, disputed as it was by at least
some half a dozen fiery-headed kings.

' Our ancient Crown, in these wild times,

Oft stood upon a cast — the gamester's ducat,
So often staked, and lost, and then regain'd,
Scarce knew so many hazards.'

As a test of royal desert, there is no question that he placed a
sword in the cleft of a huge stone, which luckily resisted the
power of all other knights to draw it forth, till Arthur suc-
ceeded in the trial at the exact moment it was desired; and it
has been plausibly conjectured that the place of royal ordeal could
be no other than the famous Stonehenge. Success every where
attended young Arthur's arms, and being at length unanimously
declared dictator by the British chiefs and princes, his coronation
took place — if we may believe the Welsh chronicles — with great
splendour, in the presence of all the chivalry and beauty of the
land.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 25

' This is he

Who rides on the court gale ; controls its tides ;

Knows all their secret shoals and fatal eddies ;

Whose frown abases, and whose smile exalts;

He shines like any rainbow.'
Advancing by rapid marches, he first fell upon the Saxons, whom
he defeated in twelve pitched battles, and crowned his military
reputation by the great victory of Badden Hill. With his good
sword Escaleborne — made either at Birmingham or Glastonbury —
he slew upwards of six hundred of the enemy ; and that he fought
in the character of a true christian knight, his device of a cross —
some say an image of the virgin — seems to afford sufficient proof;
for we are not of those antiquarians who love to maintain that King
Arthur was any votary of druidism. His triumphs over the Picts
and Scots were equally rapid and decisive ; like the Saxons, they
sued for peace, which being concluded, the youthful conqueror is
stated to have relaxed some time from the cares of war and state.
He visited the old hunting seats at Caerwys and Nannerch, in
Fhntshire, where he indulged in the pleasures of the chase ; and, if
we are to credit some of the old Welsh tales and chronicles, in
some other adventures, to promote which the magical services of
his friend Merlin were employed in a less laudable manner than
usual. It was, perhaps, fortunate then for the fame of both, that
'the king dreamed a dream,' not very pleasing to a handsome
young prince, ' that his hair fell from his head, his fingers from his
hands, and his toes from his feet.' Having sought for an interpre-
tation, he was told that his dominion was falling from him, and
could be preserved only by means of a lion in steel, the intreaty of
a blossom, and the advice of an old man. In this last character
Merlin met him disguised as a pedlar, gave him some good advice,
and reproached him for his avarice in cheapening down his wares.
By the first metaphor he was summoned to the field, and the
second was thought to allude to his choice between the conflicting
parties of druids and christians.

26 WAXDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

It is further recorded, that having lost his way in the chase,
Arthur went to take shelter in a large cave, and on entering
beheld three gigantic beings, in the shapes of a frightful old
witch, her son, and her daughter. The amiable mother and her
boy expressed a great desire to put the truant monarch to death,
but the daughter entreated that he might be respited, at least
till the next morning. If he sljiould then be able to solve a triad
of hard truths he was to be spared. The son, it seems, was an
excellent harper, and played the king to sleep, and afterwards
covered him with a large ox-hide, so heavy as to imprison him till
day break. He then propounded a few knotty points : — ' What am
I ?' * You,' replied Arthur, ' are the best harper I ever heard.*
* True,' said the old woman. ' And I ?' ' You,' replied he, ' are
the ugliest old hag I ever saw.' ' True again,' was her reply, ' and
what more ?' ' If I were once out of this place,' returned Arthur,
' I would never come near it again.' ' That is right,' said the old
hag, having too little tact at modern diplomacy to find an excuse
for eating him ; ' and now get you gone.' In this tradition we are
learnedly assured that the three druidical deities are personified J
Ceridwen, the prototype of witches ; her son Abagddu ; and the
Fleur, or the lovely Blanche-fleur ; while the ox-hide betokens the
initiation into the religious mysteries of the old Britons. But from
Arthur's aversion to the old woman we are to infer, it is said, his
abhorrence of druidism, and it would appear from the romance of
the Sangreal, that the banks of the Menai witnessed several sharp
conflicts between Arthur and the followers of the priests. Not the
least of his christian exploits was the restoring of the sacred vial of
the true blood, with which the cunning Merlin had sailed oiF to
Bardsey Isle,* to the possession of the holy church, when it was
consecrated by good St. David.

Again he advanced against the Picts, routed them in three
engagements, and pursued them into the heart of Loch Lomond,

* Anglosea.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 27

there dictating his terms alike to the barbarians and to the rebel-
lious druids. Nor was he less irresistible in his northern expedi-
tions and in Gaul, on his return from which he held several splen-
did tournaments, and a solemn festival in honour of the coronation
of the beautiful Guenever. But we are not told that, on this occa-
sion. Merlin had the honesty to forewarn him that he was crowning
the future chere amie of good Sir Launcelot of the Lake, and the be-
trayer of his life and honour. At the same time he held a court of the
Round Table, in which he improved the institution set on foot by
his father, and while thus engaged, he received a summons from
the Romans to pay the old British tribute. To this Arthur
replied by preparing a new expedition ; and, joining the Gauls,
advanced in triumph as far as Langres. The period of time he
devoted to this bold campaign, though involved in some degree of
obscurity, is admitted to have proved fatal alike to his crown and
to his life. ^Miile in the heat of battle he received tidings of the
treason of his nephew, Mordred, who, not content with abusing the
power reposed in him, inflicted a wound upon his private honour ;
and dreading his just vengeance, united his forces with the Saxons
to oppose his uncle's return. The two anmies met on the famous
plains of Camlan, the struggle was long and doubtful; Arthur
slew the traitor with his own hand, but w^as himself mortally
wounded and conveyed to the Abbey of Glastonbury, where in
three days he died.

Commemorated no less by Taliessin and the most famous of
the old bards, than in the strains of modern poets, the actions
of this wonderful prince stand forth in bold relief without any
attempt at exaggerated praise. The scourge of the Saxons,
he left, after the battle of Camlan, no equal in the council
or in the field to mitigate the grief of the Britons for his early fall.
Nor is the celebrity of his singular companion — the ' learned clerk
Merlin' — less the boast of his contemporaries and of his nation, in
its way. His prophetic dexterity in turning the tables upon the
Justice, by shewing him that he was ignorant even as to who was his

28 WANDtRINOS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

own father, is too amusing to be easily forgotten. His vexation at
finding that the parson, and not the great lord, was his sire ; — the
horror of the fonner, who runs and drowns himself in the river,
and the remorse of the lady, who retires to a nunnery, are told with
admirable naivete. His manner of ingratiating himself with the
messengers of Vortigern, sent to slay him ; his assurance that the
king's wise men were no better than fools, and his journeying
with them to court, — ' Master Merlin prophesying to them ' all
the way, riding upon a little palfrey, are not less worthy the atten-
tion of grave historians, as illustrative of the times, than the
continual sacking of towns and villages.

In the course of their progress to court, Merlin points to a young
man eagerly bargaining for a pair of shoes, and bursts into a loud
laugh, obser\ang

* He weeneth to live hem to wear,

But by my soul I dare well swear

His wretched life he shall fore-let,*

Ere he come to his own gate.'
He is still more amused at the sight of a funeral procession,
in which a jolly young priest sings most loud and melodiously,
while the grief of the old man, for the death of his supposed son,
knows no bounds. Merlin declares that the chanter and the
mourner ought to exchange characters. On their arrival at court,
Vortigern, being convinced of his divining powers, required him to
clear up the mystery of the nightly fall of the foundations of a new
fortress, which puzzled all the wise men in his kingdom. Merlin
looked very grave, as he knew the explanation would prove unpala-
table to the ear of majesty. It was, in fact, a very serious affair, for
immediately below the soil, he assured them, were two deep pools,
below the water two deep stones, and below the stones two enor-
mous serpents. One of these was white as milk, the other red as
fire ; they slept during the day, but fought every night, and in their
struggle produced the earthquake, which levelled the incipient

Lose

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 29

castlo with the dust. On exploring the spot there appeared, indeed,
the dragon-monsters couched in their subterranean lair,
* With long tailes many a fold,
And found right as Merlin told.'
The ensuing conflict was terrible to witness, and ended in the des-
truction of the red dragon,

* That never of hina was founden shred,

But dust upon the ground he lay.'
The victorious white forthwith disappeared, and Merlin, being con-
fronted with the wise men, fiercely asked how they had dared to thirst
for his blood ? Quite humble and conscience-stricken, they pre-
tended that the heavenly signs had deceived them ; but Merlin,
enjoying their humiliation, shewed that the characters which they
had seen were written there by his wicked father, who sought his
destruction. Merlin, however, pardoned them — was made the
king's chief counsellor, and the fortress was speedily finished.
But the red dragon was typical of Vortigern's fate, the white of the
triumph of Aurelius and Uther ; and so it speedily turned out.
Vortigern lost his crown, and, on the victorious Uther's death.
Merlin embraced the cause of Arthur against the rival kings, and
by his feats of diablerie,* soon raised him to the dictatorship of
Britain.

Happy, it is said, is the monarch who has a conjurer for his minis-
ter ; and Arthur required all Merlin's diplomatic genius for the black
art, to repel the fierce Saxons, the Irish, and other foes. They cut
out plenty of work both for that cunning clerk and his young hero,
supported as they were by the old knights of Uther, and all the chi-
valry of the Round Table. Besides, the arch-magician Morgain and
one or two knowing old witches were almost his match at his own

• In other words, by his learning and deep pohey, which, aided by his pretensions to
supernatural powers, gave him a command over men's minds of more extensive influence
than the sword of Arthur itself. There is as little doubt of the title of the Cymbrians, and
the old Welch — as a branch of the great Teutonic family — to the honour of originating the
British romance, the genuine songs and poetry which characterise the ancient literature of
Wales.

00 WANDERINGS THHOUGH NORTH WALES.

weapons, and are known sometimes ' to have beguiled the good clerk
Merlin.' He succeeded, however, in reconciling a number of the re-
fractory princes of North Wales and Cornwall, who received the boon
of knighthood at the hands of Arthur, and fought under his banners.
In one of their conflicts with a vast ' horde of misbelieving Irish
giants,' the adherents of the king were in imminent peril of being
cut to pieces, when luckily the constable or mayor of London,
whose name was Sir Do, apprized by Merlin of their desperate con-
dition, ran in all haste to Algate, where he blew a blast with his
horn, which soon brought the aldermen with their numerous wards
— at least seven thousand men — to his summons. He made them
arm, and marched out in double-quick time to the aid of the hard-
prest Britons.

The valour of the aldermen and their lumber-troops speedily
turned the scale ; and Sir Gowain with fresh alacrity was seen to
leap over the heads of twelve assailants, and carve down to the chine
a great pagan who was in the act of killing his brother. The victo-
rious aldermen having returned to their respective wards, were re-
quested by Sir Gowain, and other knights, to divide the booty
among the brave citizens, whose acclamations on this proposal ex-
ceeded even their feats of arms. We next hear of this great minis-
ter attending his royal master, with only thirty-nine knights, from
Breckenhoe to Chester, which was then preparing to resist a tre-
mendous assault of the Irish giant Ryance, at the head of fifteen
tributary kings. Upon their arrival, they found Leodegan, lord
president, seated with two-hundred and fifty knights in deep council
as to the means of repelling the threatened assault upon the capital.
Merlin drew up his royal company before the council hall, and
marching at their head up to the throne, where Arthur had seated
himself, he bade King Ban deliver himself of the loyal address
which he had committed to memory before he left Breckenhoe. On
his right Arthur was supported by Ban, on his left by King
Bohort, while barons and knights hand in hand followed in pairs.
Among these were presented in succession Sir Antour, his old tutor.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 81

Sir Ulfin, Sir Bretel, Sir Cay, Sir Lucan, Sir Do, son of the mayor
of London, Sir Grifles, Sir Maroc, Sir Brians, of the wild forest,
Sir Behas, of Maiden Castle, Sir Amours, the brown, Sir Ancales,
the red, Sir Aladan, the crisp. Sir Cleodes, the foundling. Sir
Amadan, the orgulous. Sir Oroman, hardy of heart. Sir Bleheris,
a godson of King Bohort, and others no less illustrious. Merlin,
the bearer of the white rod before the monarch, though last, was
not the least of the courtly number.

Arthur and his knights, headed by Merlin, with a fiery dragon
for his ensign, were soon in the field. Every where in the thick of
the melee the King sought the giant Saphiran, the most skilful and
terrible of all royal infidels, who unhorsed every Knight of the
Round Table whom he met. He was just on the point of dispatch-
ing the Lord President Leodegan, when Arthur flew to his relief;
but, astonished for a moment at Saphiran's teri'ific appearance, he
hesitated and almost scrupled to attack him, when Merlin cried out
in a tone of reproach —

'What abidest thou, cowax'd King?
The Paine give anon meeting.'

Maddened at this taunt, the British hero sprang upon the enemy
and received Saphiran's spear upon his shield, which, piercing
through hide and hauberk, wounded Arthur in the side. But at
the same instant his own lance passed clean through the Milesian's
body, and

' Quoth Arthur, thou hethen Cokein,
Wende to the devil Apolin !
The pagen fell dede to ground,
His soul caught hell-hounde.'
The preceding is a pretty fair specimen of the exploits which
may be performed by a king who fights his own battles, and who
has a conjuror for his privy-counsellor and his standard-bearer.

Picturesque in its appearance, its ancient edifices and curiously
constructed rows give Chester a singularly quiet and solemn air,
in striking contrast with the bustle of other cities, and blending

32 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

well with its venerable relics and long departed renown of its once
formidable castle, however, except the solitary specimen called
Julius Cffisar's Tower, erected by Hugh Lupus, nothing is to be
seen ; the old feudal structure having been destroyed in the year
1786, to make room for modern edifices of more public utility.
Upon its site now appear the spacious and handsome buildings of
the new county prison, the shire-hall, &c. admirably adapted to
their several objects, from plans executed under the direction of the
late Mr. Harrison, who succeeded in combining an appearance of
exterior symmetry and magnificence with interior accommodations
of the most approved and superior kind.

The principal entrance to the shire-hall through a portico of
twelve columns in double rows, more than twenty feet high and
three feet in diameter, each consisting of a single stone, — is at once
elegant and imposing. The court room, of a half circular shape,
is airy and spacious, and well lighted from above.

The county goal is situated at the back, on a somewhat lower
level, from which the prisoners ascend by a flight of steps into the
dock. Attached to the prison are several distinct yards, where
the inmates can take the air and exercise at appointed intervals.
There are forty rooms distinct from each other, and fourteen
solitary cells set apart for the most guilty or unruly among the
condemned.

Flanking the two extremities of this noble pile are seen two
uniform light structures, one of which forms the barracks appropri-
ated to the use of the officers and men of the garrison, the second
consisting of the armoury where there were generally deposited not
less than forty thousand stand of arms in constant readiness,
besides other munitions of war. The effect of the entire edifice is
greatly improved by the open area in front, enclosed by a semicir-
cular sweep of walls, surmounted with iron railings, and the style of
noble Doric architecture in which it is constructed has been often
and deservedly eulogized, as well as its bold yet chaste execution.
From the noble city walls, — embracing a circuit of two miles —

I

4

I

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 33

the Welsh mountains are seen to great advantage, with the Brox-
ton hills, the solitary rock of Beeston and its ruins, mingled with
a rich variety of landscape.

It was from the Phoenix Tower — the only one now left — that
Charles I. beheld the triumph of the Parliament in the battle of
Rowton Moor. Considerable remains of the ancient Abbey still
exhibit a noble example of the old pointed architecture of the
Normans. The Cathedral is another of those splendid monument*
of which this once majestic city may justly boast. The noble
Chapter House is supposed to have been erected in the days of
Earl Handle, so celebrated for his border wars, and nephew to the
great Hugh Lupus, whose body was found in a stone coffin wrapped
in gilt leather, with a cross on the breast, and with a wolf's head
engraved on the stone. The old custom of religious sanctuary was
on one occasion of some benefit to the noble earl ; finding himself
beset in the old Castle of Rhudland by the Welsh, — much like
Bishop Hatto in his tower, — he sent a messenger to his constable
De Lacy for instant succour. The constable happened to be at
the fair, and, assisted by one Ralph Dutton, mustered a large
body of all the needy and criminal who had taken shelter in the
place. With this motley band he marched boldly towards the
castle ; and the wild mountaineers, struck with their singular garb
and imposing numbers, thought good to sound a retreat.

Among its noble and numerous churches, that of St. John,
erected, it is said, by Ethelred, in 689, was the most magnificent.
There is a tradition of its founder, that he was directed by a vision
to build this grand edifice on the spot which should be marked out
to him by the appearance of a white hind.

The Bridge, constructed before the time of the Conquest, is a
fine and singular specimen of old architecture. After the mva-
sion, the provost had orders to summon one man from each hide of
land in the country to assist in rebuilding the Bridge and the Walls.
Contiguous to the bridge are the City Mills, originally built by
the famous Lupus, and worked by a current through means

F

34 M ANDEKINGS THROLUH NORTH WALKS.

of ca large dam raised obliquely across the river Dee. They
were held by the Earls of Chester of the royal line, and were
granted by Edward the Black Prince to Sir Howel, cf Fwyall,
for his signal valour and capture of the French King at the battle
of Poictiers.

Chester long continued the capital city of Venedotia, or North
Wales, and was wrested from the Britons, by Egbert, early in the
ninth centuiy. In 895, it suffered from a terrific invasion of the
Danes, who, retreating before the victorious Alfred, left it a heap
of ruins. It was restored by Ethelfleda, the daughter of that
great monarch, — celebrated in a barbarous age for her chastity, her
wisdom, and her deeds in arms. Her munificence and piety
restored cities, founded abbeys ; and, what w as then esteemed the
crown of all virtues, removed the mouldering bones of departed
saints to more eligible spots.* Assuming the government of the
Mercian Earldom, she led her armies to victory; and disdaining
the usual titles of lady or queen, she chose to be addressed by the
names of ' Imperial Lord' and ' King.' Her commanding
genius became the theme of the bards, and the following lines
shew the veneration in which she was held : —

' Elfleda, terror of mankind,

Nature, for ever unconfined,

Stamped thee in woman's tender frame,

Though worthy of a hero's name ; —

Thee — thee alone the muse shall sing,

Dread Emperor and victorious King !

E'en Caesar's conquests were outdone

By thee, illustrious aniazou.' — II. W.
Among her other works, she built a castle at Sceargate, a
second at Briege, — the modern Bridgenorth, — a third at Tam-
worth, a fourth at Staefford, and in many other towns of Britain.
She captured Brecknock, and took its queen prisoner ; she stormed
Derby, and, as in the case of Legerceaster, rebuilt more cities

• Old Saxon Chronicle.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 35

than she stonned. After a life of patriotic heroism and toil, she
closed her career at Tamworth, lamented by the people, and still
more by her royal brother Edward, whose councils she had
directed and whose battles she had fought.

The Nonnan Earldom of Chester continued upwards of a century
and a half; but on the death of John Scott, the seventh Earl, in
1237, Henry III. annexed it to the crown, 'unwilling, as he
observed, that so great an inheritance should be parcelled out
among distaffs,' — there being no surviving sons. In this act origi-
nated the present government of Chester, under its mayor and
sheriffs, and the various privileges of i-ts ancient Guild.

Under the sway of the Saxons, Chester was distinguished for its
extensive traffic, especially in the barbarous sale of slaves. ' It was
a most moving sight to see, in the public markets, rows of young
people of both sexes, of great beauty and in the flower of their
youth, tied together with ropes, daily prostituted — daily sold. Exe-
crable fact ! wretched disgrace !'*

During the Heptarchy the Mercian princes held their courts at
Chester ; it became a province in the time of Egbert, and a sea-
port of first-rate importance.

Under the feudal sway of the polished Normans, it continued to
increase in dignity and splendour, and we are informed by one of
those joyous monks,f so admirably depicted by Scott, that ' greate
shipes doe come from Gascoigne, Spain, Ireland, and Germany,
WHO by God's assistance, and the labour and conduct of mariners
repair hither, and supply all sorts of commodities, so that being
comforted by the favour of God in all things, we drink wine plenti-
fully,— for those countries have abundance of vineyards.'

Henry II. in one of his many invasions of Wales, fixed on Ches-
ter to hold an interview with Malcolm, King of Scotland, when he
obtained the cession of three great northern counties, which had till

* Pennant. Tour in North Wales. — Life of Saint Wulfstan.
t Lucian, who flourished (says Mr. Pennant) about the period of the Conqueat-

36 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

then belonged to Scotland. In 1188, Baldwin, Archbishop of Can-
terbury, passed through Chester, accompanied by the historian
Giraldus, on his way from preaching the crusade to the Welsh; and
in 1255, Llewellyn the Great carried fire and sword to its very
gates, in his wars with the lord-marchers; and, at length, in 1275,
the conquering Edward having here required that prince's submis-
sion, commenced his last fatal war against the country.

Still the theatre of great events, in 1399 Henry IV. seized upon
the city and castle on his way to Flint, hastening to dethrone his
ill-fated sovereign ; while, in the fierce wars of Glendower, Chester
became the rallying point of the royal cause.

Nor was it less conspicuous in the civil strife of the Roses, as we
are informed by Drayton, in his touching description of the results
of that fatal conflict on the social condition of the country. Lord
Audley then held the command of the Cheshire forces in favour of
* the meek usurper,' and he tells us that this general,
' So laboured 'till that he had brought
That th' half of one house 'gainst the other fought;
So that two men, arising from one bed,
Palling to talk from one another fly;
This wears a white rose, and that wears a red,
And this a York, — that Lancaster doth cry:
He wished to see that Audley had well sped,
He prays again to prosper Salisbury ;
And, for their farewell, when their leaves they take
They their sharp swords at one another shake.'*
In the eventful contest of Charles with the Parliament, Chester
embraced the royal cause, and stood many a memorable siege.
After the King's flight. Lord Byron held the city with unex-
ampled valour and determination, and yielded only on the most
honourable terms. Few royalists were so well able to cope with a
Brereton and a Mytton as this gallant nobleman, and his opponents
bore honourable testimony to his signal bravery and merit.

• The Miseries of Queen Margaret.

CHAPTER IV.

HAWARDEN, EULOE, AND FLINT.

Then as I said, the duke, great BoUngbroko,

Mounted upon a hot and fiery steed.

Which his aspiring rider seemed to know,

With slow but stately pace, kept on his course.

While all tongues cried — ' God save thee, Bolingbroke !'

Richard II.

Having bidden farewell to Chester, the Wanderer, at the break of
dawn, pursued his pleasant rambles along the banks of the restless
Dee ; then crossing its ever-varying tide at the lower ferry, where
the elf and wizard-land first breaks upon the eye, he soon beheld
Hawarden, with its wild wooded hills and glens, its abrupt and
broken rocks and frowning ruins. It was a lovely morning, in the
earliest month of summer; the river gradually assumed a deeper
glow, as it reflected the rainbow-tints of the sunny dawn, while a soft,
still haze hung over its banks far along the spreading Saltney, tinging
every object with a dewy light, till it melted in the hilly distance.
He beheld not, indeed, the sterner and more majestic features of
Alpine scenery — none of the varied brilliancy, the deep purple glow,
and rich green hues of the south ; but there was a gentleness and
loveliness in the hour and the scene, — a charm in the deep peace
and solitude of that morning, which left an indelible impression on
his memory. It was the more vivid, perhaps, from its having been
one of the earliest of his rambles when he explored the castles of
North Wales, — then filled with the buoyant hopes, and now with the
vanished dreams, of youth. He felt a strange delight in recalling
the visions of those days, as he pursued his quiet path along the
winding banks of the Dee, — his thoughts still dwelling upon that
ancient city with whose strange fortunes northern Cambria, espe-

38 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

cially Flintshire, the ground lie then trod, were so intimately mixed
up. Another footpath over the gently rising meadows and inter-
vening acclivities brought him, in about an hour, within view of the
solitary glens and mouldering walls of Hawarden. Far around him
lay a picturesque variety of grove, and hill, and dale, with the
lofty hills gradually breaking on the horizon, over which the light
fleecy clouds had yet hung.

* With every mingled charm of hill and dale,
Mountain and mead ; hoar cliff and forest wide,
And thine the ruins where rapt genius broods
In pensive haunts romantic ; rifled towers
That beetling o'er the rock rear the gray crest
Embattled, and within the secret glade
Concealed, the abbey's ivy-mantled pile.'*
Such was the scenery of Hawarden, when its spectral ruins and
deserted abbey first broke upon his view. He beheld the trophies
of man's vanished conquests, — beauty — power, — the mightiest efforts
of successive generations, — fast mingling with the common dust.
Before him rose that antique castle, deep-bosomed in trees, lifting
its grey walls in bold relief against the clear blue skies. Singularly
contrasting with these evidences of sterner times, were seen modern
hamlets and mansions adorning the borders of the dreary tract which
lies beyond, stretching far towards the town of Mold, till it seems
to blend with the distant hills. Near the great road over Saltney,
along the Dee, lay Bretton ; on the left the village of Brough-
ton, and its proud manorial halls; while, commanding all the
scene, towered the magnificent ruin, w ith its secluded

* Antique towers,
* That crown the watery glade.'
The name of Pen y Llwch, or headland of the lake, with the
vicinity of Saltney and other marshes, seem to authorize the conjec-
ture that the walls of Hawarden were once washed by the sea. In
Doomsday Book, mention is made of the name of Haordim, — now

* A Tour through Parts of Wales.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 39

abbreviated into Harden, — formerly in possession of the Lords of
Mold. Part of its fertile lands were granted to the neighbouring
Abbey of Basingwerk, and part to the inhabitants of the old domain.
As an early British station also of the Cornavii — fiercely held against
the Romans, anterior to the heroic defence of the Ordovices, — the
Wanderer traced the different fortified heights in the vicinity, evi-
dently the work of the hard-prest Britons. Trueman's Hill of itself
supplied him with proofs of the skill and desperate valour of its de-
fendants. It was carried by dint of numbers, and the Norman
Conqueror found the fortifications in possession of the Saxon Edwin,
with the sovereignty of Deira, extending into the district of Northum-
berland. Mixed up with the history of Hawarden are found not a few
curious anecdotes, of which the following may serve as a specimen.
It has long been a tradition that the natives were for centuries past
designated by their neighbours, ' Harden Jews,' an appellation origi-
nating in the following singular occurrence. During the tenth century,
in the reign of Cynan ap Elis, King of North Wales, there was
here a Christian temple, and a rood loft in which was placed an image
of the Virgin IVIary, with a large cross placed in her hands, called
Holy-rood. It happened that during a sultry, dry summer, the
inhabitants prayed heartily for the blessing of a little rain ; and
among the rest was the Lady Trowst, wife of the governor of
Harden Castle. While engaged in this devout exercise, instead of
rain, the Holy-rood fell upon her head, and killed her on the spot.
A great commotion ensued ; angry at their loss, and no signs of
rain appearing, the people, who were rather of a litigious disposi-
tion, determined to try the said virgin for the murder. The jury
found her guilty — icilful murder^ in addition to the most ungracious
neglect for not answering their petitions — in short, she was sen-
tenced to be hanged. There was, however, a certain man called
Span, ofMancof, who, being one of the jury, proposed an amend-
ment— namely, that she should be drowned instead of hanged, to
give her a full taste of that element for which they had so long
prayed in vain. But master Corbyn, of the Gate, as eagerly

40 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

stickled for an amaidment of the amendment, to the purport that she
should be exposed upon the sands near the river. It was so agreed,
and on the influx of the tide the immaculate lady was borne on its
bosom to the walls of Carleon, where she was found (being near the
Irish sea) both droicned and dead. The more pious people of
Chester not only interred her, but raised a monument to her me-
mory, on which they inscribed these pertinent and caustic lines —
'The Jews their God did crucify,
The Hardner's their's did drown,
Because their wants she'd not supply,
And lies 'neath this cold stone.'
On this solemn occasion, we are told, the river, previously termed
the Uske, was named Hood Die, or Holy-rood; and we should
esteem ourselves fortunate could we half as satisfactorily account
for the disputed names of all rivers.

Like most other towns of the feudal periods, Hawarden had its
origin in the foundation of the castle, which is situated on the north-
east side, commanding an extensive view over the river and county
of Chester. Dating soon after the Conquest, it came into posses-
sion of Roger Fitzvalerine, a son of one of the adventurers who
followed the Norman Conqueror. It was subsequently held, on the
tenure of Seneschalship, by the family of Monthault of the Earls of
Chester, and finally annexed by Henry III. to the crown.

It was at Hawarden that the ambitious Earl of Leicester, after
securing the persons of the King and his son Edward, entered into
that fatal league with Llewellyn, which compelled Henry to sur-
render the sovereignty of Wales, with the homage of its baronial
suffrage, which were transferred to the Welsh Prince. In the last
struggle for independence, it was surprised by David, his brother,
on the night of Palm-Sunday, and the entire garrison put
to the sword. This prince had acted with equal perfidy towards
Edward I., his benefactor, and towards Llewellyn. Having accepted
an English barony, and a seat in the House of Peers, he was con-
demned, like the Duke of Hamilton in later times, to die the death
of a traitor, as an English subject.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 41

After the subjection of the country, Hawarden was granted to
the House of Salisbury, and subsequently to that of Stanley. From
Thomas, Earl of Derby, it descended to his second wife Margaret,
Countess of Richmond, and mother of Henry VH. In 1495, that
monarch is stated to have honoured the castle with a visit, to
enjoy the pleasures of the chase ; but his real motive was to ingra-
tiate himself with the Earl her husband, after the ungrateful act of
executing his brother Sir William Stanley, to whose assistance
he was mainly indebted for his crown. The estates contiimed in
the family till the execution of James, Earl of Derby, in 1651 ;
and, not long after, they were purchased by Sergeant Glynn, from
the Commissioners of Sequestration. On the Restoration, the
Lords passed an order that the estates, which had been sold under
that act without their consent, should be restored.

Aware of what was passing, the learned Sergeant made an early
offer of surrender, upon condition only of receiving a lease for three
lives. The proposal was rejected with aristocratic folly and angry
contempt, the consequence of which was, the deserved loss of the
entire property to the Derby family; for, enraged at the noble
opposition of the Commons, the Lords sought to accomplish their
object by other means.

In the month of December, the same year, they sent down a
private hill to the Lower House, for restoring to Charles, Earl of
Derby, all the manors, lands, 8cc. &c., which had belonged to his
unfortunate father. But this was as boldly opposed by the Com-
mons, and the bill was finally laid aside without ever coming to a
second reading. It then became the simple and unlucky Earl's
turn to try to compound with the learned lawyer, who, as we are
informed, having hold of the right end of the staff, and possessing
nine points of the law on his side, obtained with the help of ' his
tongue and gown ' a grant — not for three lives, but for himself
and his heirs for ever.

We need not add that this valuable property has continued in
the Glynn family, who can surely never cease to remember that

42 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

they had a Sergeant well practised in the law for one of their
ancestors.

A few years back, among the old portraits at Hawarden, might
be observed two of this distinguished personage, in his character of
Lord Chief Justice. Born in 16 12, he was educated at West-
minster and Oxford, and entered early in life at Lincoln's Inn.
He speedily rose with the popular party; was made Steward of
Westminster, Recorder of London, and twice returned to Parlia-
ment for the city. Next to l*ym, he was the most efficient
opponent of the despotic Stafford ; and on the breaking up of the
court party, the fallen peer was heard to remark that Glynn and
Maynard treated him like advocates, but Palmer and Whitelock
like gentlemen. The author of Hudibras alludes to these two
great leaders of the popular cause in the following lines : —
' Did not the learned Glynne and Maynard
To make good subjects traitors strain hard ?'
Though appointed Commissioner to treat with the King at the
Isle of Wight, he artfully evaded sitting at his trial, while at the
same time he became one of Cromwell's Privy Council. In 1648,
he had voted against all monarchy ; but in 1657 he found that
form of government expedient for the settlement of the nation,
and strongly urged the Protector to assume the crown. He wrote
a treatise on the subject for the Protector's private perusal, but by
a master-stroke of policy kept it back, and published it with great
eclat on the restoration. This was his ' Monarchy asserted to he the
best, the most anciait, and legal form of Government ;' and though
written to persuade his former master to mount the empty throne,
perfectly reinstated him in the favour of the new court. Charles
received him with marked regard ; he was made Prime Sergeant,
knighted, and pursued his career of honours, which, with his good
fortune and ability, seem to have descended as a kind of heir-loom
in the family. Such, in short, was his profound political tact and
sagacity, as to offer perhaps the most finished example upon record
of that popular personage, quaintly termed by John Bunyan,

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 43

Mr. Worldlij Wiseman ; and the great Chief Justice almost eclipsed —
to use the style of an eminent law authority — the landed-property-
scquestration-comniission-act-purchasing-learned-sergeant.

It was near Hawarden, at Balderton Bridge, that the Welsh
sustained a terrible defeat from Hugh Cyvilian, Earl of Chester,
who, by way of trophy, afterwards made a rampart of the heads of
those who fell in the conflict.

On the side of Chester the Saltney rises rather abruptly, and
from considerable hollows and corresponding elevations on the left,
as well as from traces of a bastion, seems to have been the site of
old encampments, with a view to command the pass into the
country of the Ordovices, — the old positions still pointing towards
the districts of Varis, Cornovium and Segontium.

In common with many feudal edifices, Hawarden Castle suf-
fered severely during the civil wars of Charles I. It was sur-
rendered, after a close and deteraiined siege, in 1645, to General
Mytton, and the Parliament ordered it to be dismantled. Little
more than fragments of the former towers and keep remain; and
a considerable portion of the magnificent ruin was itself obscured
by heaps of rubbish, till Sir John Glynn had it removed and
the foundations laid open to view. It was constructed in a penta-
gonal form; on one side was a spacious gateway, and on the other a
kind of barbican. At one angle was situated the keep or citadel, a
circular tower still nearly entire, and which forms one of the most
picturesque objects that strike the eye on first approaching 'its
ancient solitary reign.' Other portions consist of the relics of
vast mouldering walls, of massive donjons ; and, in one part, of a
long flight of steps, at the bottom of which was a door and a
draw-bridge crossing a ravine to another division of the castle,
embracing, most probably, the prison thus fearfully secured.

On all sides it was surrounded by deep chasms and fosses filled
with trees; and, from its extensive plan and once broad foun-
dations, it has the appearance of having been erected at different
periods — of having been sometimes defaced and at others restored,

44 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

according to the vicissitudes and fortune of war. The church has
nothing pecuUar to attract attention as regards either its architec-
ture or interior decoration ; the style of building, like the specimens
of sculpture which it contains, being remarkably plain. Peculiar
privileges pertained to the rector of this benefice : he held a sort of
ecclesiastical court, — could grant matrimonial licences, register
wills, give probates, and discharge every act of a suffragan except
ordination and confirmation. He can even now preside as a judge,
attended by his proctors and consistorial court; and the annual
revenues are calculated to amount to above three thousand pounds.
The mansion of Hawarden Park, the seat of the family, is a
noble structure, erected by a Sir John Glynn, in 1752. In 1809
it received some magnificent additions, and then assumed the form
of a castellated edifice, with antique-looking windows and turrets
in the style of the thirteenth century. It possesses a large collection
of pictures, consisting chiefly of portraits of the Evangelists, in the
manner of Caravaggio, the productions probably of a French artist.

The ascent towards Hawarden from the river Dee, with the
village of Broughton, once the property of the Ilavenscroft family, —
the Saltney, stretching within a mile of Chester, — the stream called
the Leeches, flowing on the left, — and Doddleston, form altogether
an interesting approach to the principality. At Doddleston is seen
the tomb of the honest yet persecuted Chancellor Ellesmere, who
chose that place as a residence from affection to his first wife, a
daughter of Sir Thomas Ilavenscroft, of Reeston. His mother,
according to Mr. Pennant, had been a servant in the family of some
humble persons in the parish, and the following remarkable anec-
dote of her, and of her fortunate child, is still current. Being
neglected by her seducer. Sir 11. Egerton, the father of the future
Lord Chancellor, she was reduced to beg for her support. A
neighbouring gentleman happened to see her soliciting alms, fol-
lowed by her little beggar-boy. Struck with his beauty, he accosted
him, and thought he discovered in his countenance marks of
superior intelligence and gentleness of mind. In the generous

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 43

impulse of the moment, he hastened to Sir Richard, and de-
scribed the disgraceful situation in which he had just beheld his
son, wandering from door to door. With manly feeling the
father acknowledged the justness of the reproof, received the child,
and, by an excellent education, laid the foundation of his celebrity
and good fortune.

The last fleecy clouds passed from the horizon before the splen-
dour of a glowing noon, as the Wanderer resumed his quiet walk
towards the lonely and wooded retreats of Euloe. Though scarcely
a quarter of a mile from the main road, so secluded is the spot that
a guide is usually engaged to thread the paths leading to its time-
worn and romantic castle. The ruins of a massy tower and broad
dilapidated w-alls, consisting of a sort of horn-work, first present
themselves to the eye. At one end of an ancient oblong court, over-
grown with weeds and moss, stands the ivy-mantled porch and turrets
— lone and neglected as the scene, and forcibly corresponding
with the description in Gray's Elegy ; — the deserted abbey and the
modern hamlet, with its rustic church in the distance, giving all the
feeling of truth to the touching reflections of the poet. The only
sound which breaks upon the silence is the sighing of the wind
through the deep ravine below the tower ; and on the other side
appears the broad, deep moat, where the old draw-bridge once stood.

From the summit of the tower the Wanderer beheld, over thickly
wooded vales and glens, a wildly picturesque prospect, which im-
pressed him with an idea of solitude and silence almost as profound
as if he had stood amidst the spreading forests and rivers of the
new world. It was here, he remembered, that 'Hoele, a true
gentleman of Flyntshire, was wont to give the bagge of the silver
harpe to the best harper of North Wales, as by immemorial privi-
ledge of his auncestors dwelling at Penrin, in Flintshire ; and that
he hath also a ruinous castelet, or pile, at a place called Castell
YoUo*'

* With little difficulty modernized into Eulou.

1

46 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

The low narrow dofiles of Coed Eidoc and the vicinity became m
memorable by the defeat of Henry II., when commanding in person, 1
during one of his most formidable invasions of Wales. The sons of
Owen Gwynedd permitted the enemy to approach along the passes
of the country, till they were gradually entangled in the obscurity of
the surrounding woods, and narrow glens, and vallies. The onslaught
of the Welsh was terrific ; their enemies were thrown into confusion,
and pursued with slaughter into the heart of the English camp.
Enraged at this signal disgrace to the royal arms, Henry advanced
with his whole force; but falling into the same difficulties, the assault I
was renewed, and he had veiy nearly perished, with the chief of his
army, at Coleshill. A number of his leading barons were slain ; the
bearer of the royal standard, — esteemed the bravest of the brave* —
seized with a strange panic, — flung it from him and fled, crying out
that the king was killed ! But that wise and valiant monarch was
eagerly rallying his forces; and, charging in person, finally repulsed
the mountaineers, and withdrew to a more secure station. Proceed-
ing next along the coast to cut off the retreat of Prince Owen, by
getting between him and the hills, he was again foiled in his object
by that able leader anticipating his movement, and taking up a
strong position on a plain near Saint Asaph, still named Owen's
retreat, whence he retired to Bryn y Pin, a post j^rotected by im-
mense ramparts and ditches. Traces of his encampment are yet"
found upon a lofty rock above the church, now called Pe?i y Pare.
In the vicinity are two high mounds, the site, it is supposed, of for-
tresses long since destroyed. One near Gadlys appears to have
been the seat of some Welsh prince ; the other, about a mile be-
yond Flint, is called Bryn y Cwn, or the hill of dogs, — very pro-
bably an ancient hunting seat. A circumstance occurred subse-
quently to this Welsh victory, which has been thought to indicate
that the report of King Edgar's having, in 1157, extirpated the
race of wolves could not be strictly true. A Cambrian gentleman

a m

* Henry of Essex.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 47

killed in the battle, was found, after a lapse of eight days, attended
by his faithful dog, which had during all that time defended his
master's body from falling a prey to wolves and birds.

It would seem that there is no tradition extant respecting the
foundation of Euloe Castle, its origin having defied the research of
even that patriarch of modern tourists, Mr. Pennant. But there is
sufficient reason to conclude, that it was built either by one of the
lords of Tegangle,* or by Henry himself, as a strong-hold to protect
his troops from future disasters like those already mentioned.

The manor of Euloe was reckoned an appurtenance to that of
Montalto or Mold. It belonged to the crown till Henry VIII.
granted it to one Peter Staidey, the tyrant's tool and creature ; and
his successor, Edward Stanley, held it under Elizabeth at the value
of twenty pounds a year. In Saxton's Map of Flintshire is a place
called Yowly Hall, and in the Salisbury pedigrees are yet to be
found the arms of the family of Euloe, but with nothing interest-
ing in an historical point of view. The old castle is situated about
two miles from Hawarden, and five from the village of Northop.

Having indulged his curiosity in exploring the relics of feudal
power and splendour, — enjoyed the picturesque views, the melan-
choly charm of this wild, secluded spot, — the Wanderer prepared
to revisit the still more memorable Castle of Flint.

The town itself has all the appearance of a fallen and deserted
capital, presenting evidences of its former extent and importance in
long lines of half dilapidated edifices and broken streets. In its
rapid decline it seems to have partaken the fate of its once-towering
and lordly fortress. Its loss of influence was accelerated by the
removal of the general sessions, and the competition of powerful
rivals ; and though at the head of one of the ancient shires of North
Wales, — being mentioned in Doomsday Book before the Conquest,
— there seems little promise of its restoration to vanished greatness

* Anglice, fair England, — the ancient name said to have been given to Flintshire.

48 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

or civic prosperity. There is reason to believe, that at an early
period the town was known also by the name of Colsul, or Coleshill ;
for Mr. Pennant tells us that he could find no other site for the
Chapel of Colsul, granted by David, son of Llewellyn, to the
Abbey of Basingwerk. It probably went by both names, and it is
ascertained that it was held by Robert of Rhuddlan. From the
situation of the place, it has also every appearance of having owed
its origin to fierce and perilous times, — its entire structure present-
ing the aspect of awarlike station to resist the repeated shocks of
a people newly subdued. Its primitive foundation was doubtless
that of a Roman encampment, the site being rectangular, and
having a deep wide fosse, with huge ramparts, besides four great
equilateral gates, which can be traced upon the same military
foundation.

The Church of Flint is supposed to have been the old Capelh. di
Colsul mentioned by Dugdale, and belonging to the Abbey of
Basingwerk. It is a perpetual curacy held under Northop, and
dedicated to Saint Mary. But the view of the majestic ruins of the
mighty and fallen, — the pride of chivalry in its boldest and most
splendid day, — absorbs every other in the mind of the passing travel-
ler. Standing in bold relief upon a rock which jutted from the south
bank into the sands, this grand feudal monument once looked from
its vast battlemented towers, like a sovereign over its subject Dee,
of which the restless waves swept its walls, as they now moan and
fret round its fast mouldering ruins.* At the recurrence of each hi<rh
tide the estuary may literally be said to inhume some fresh remnant
of its antique pomp and pride in the great waters of oblivion.

These imposing ruins are seen on the north-east of the town, to
which the castle was formerly attached by a bridge, which led to the
outwork, or tower called the barbican. It was built in a square,
with large round towers at three of the corners, with a fourth a little

* Insomuch that it may now almost be justly averred, both of the old town and its fallen
castle, in the words of the Roman, ' Etiam poiicrunt ruiiix'.'

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 49

disjoined and still more massy. This last is known by the name
of the double tower, and was joined to the main edifice by a draw-
bridge. Beneath it is a circular gallery, with four arched openings
into a central area more than twenty-two feet in diameter. In one
part this gallery slopes towards the interior, and, again ascending,
communicates with an upper range still more central, which formed
the ancient donjon.* To this stronghold, we are informed by
Froissart, the unfortunate Richard II. retreated, as a place of the
greatest security ; and here he was subsequently delivered into the
hands of Bolingbroke, — an event which, it will be seen, has
afforded scope for the genius of an artist familiar with the historical
characteristics of ' olden times.'

The scene between Richard and his haughty kinsman is perhaps
one of the most remarkable and pathetic in the range of British
history, and throws around these ruined precincts a still sterner air
of melancholy interest and truth.

It affords, also, one of the most startling lessons of humanity in
the son of England's favourite hero, and on the very spot in the land
where his royal predecessor had appeared a crowned conqueror, at
the head of invincible aniiies — ' the mighty victor, mighty lord,'
triumphant over three powerful nations. What an appalling
vicissitude does the poet's picture of the fallen fortunes of his
descendant present to the mind !

' Fair laughs the morn, and soft the zephyr blows,

While, proudly riding o'er the azure realm,

In gallant trim the gilded vessel goes,

Youth at the prow and Pleasure at the helm,

Regardless of the sweeping whirlwind's sway,

That hushed in grim repose expects his evening prey,'

* Fill high the sparkling bowl ;
The rich repast prepare ;f

* Pennant,
t Richard II.,— as we are told by Archbishop Scroop, and the confederate Lords in their
manifesto, by Thomas of Walsingham, and all the older writers,— was starved to death.
The story of his assassination by Sir Piers of Exon is of much later date.

H

jO wanderings through north wales.

Eeft of a crown, he yet may share the feast ;

Close to the regal chair

Fell thirst and famine scowl

A baleful smile upon the baffled guest.'

Although the scene abounds in memorials of great events, we
shall give precedence to a brief historic sketch of a circumstance
which appeals with peculiar force to individual sympathies, and
is rendered more interesting from its having given birth to one
of the most beautiful passages in the works of our great dra-
matist.

On the attainder of \'ere. Earl of Oxford, Flint Castle came
into possession of the Earl of Northumberland, who had the
baseness, under the mask of a peace-maker, to entrap the sove-
reign whom he professed to serve into the hands of his enemy and
aspiring rival. As if anxious to effect a reconciliation between the
king and the duke, by means of a personal interview, he appeared
before Richard in the character of a loyal mediator, declaring that
all his kinsman aimed at was the privilege of holding a free Parlia-
ment, and having his estates restored to him. Deceived by his
loyal professions, and weakly relying upon the honour of an English
peer, he was prevailed upon to give his betrayer a meeting in
the neighbourhood of Conway. The better to allay the king's
suspicions, which were more than once expressed, he proposed to
accompany him to high mass, and renew his oath of allegiance at
the altar. The way from the holy temple lay through a lonely
defile in the mountain district near Penmaen Rhos ; and here
the king was first taught to repent of having placed confidence in
the solemn oath of one of the first nobles of his land. They were
suddenly joined by a numerous military escort, bearing the arms of
the Earls Percy on their standards. Upon the instant, Richard,
who was never wanting to himself in moments of emergency,
turned his horse's head to fly, but it was too late ; the arch-traitor
himself dashing forward, seized the reigns of his charger, and,

WANDEllINOS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 51

seconded by his partizans, forcibly directed his wretched sovereign's
route towards the then broad, frowning towers of Fhnt.

Bitterly did the royal llichard reproach the dastardly betrayer of
his sovereign's trust, accusing him, to his face, of the vilest treachery
that ever stained the arms of an English knight, and appealing to the
God, in whose presence he had that morning sworn fealty, to visit
its blasphemous violation upon his head, declaring a day of retri-
bution would assuredly follow a deed so revolting to every mind. But
his betrayer only hurried forward more speedily till he reached
Rhuddlan; and, after a brief pause, hastened onward, with the con-
scious guilt of a retreating bandit, eager to deposit his stolen trea-
sure, ere he could be overtaken, in the impregnable walls of Flint.
Having secured the price of royal blood, he added the most despic-
able hypocrisy to treachery and insult. Both he and his employer
affected to treat Richard with the utmost deference and respect.
'The next day after dinner,' says our pleasant old Chronicler,* 'the
Duke of Lancaster entered the castle, armed at all points, his basi-
net excepted. Kynge Richard came down from the keep, or donjon,
to meet him, when Bolingbroke fell upon his knees with his cap in
his hand. Seeing this act of apparent submission, the kynge tooke
off his hoode and spake first, ' Fair cousin of Lancaster you are
right welcome home.' — The duke, bending still more courteously,
replied, ' My Liege, I am come before you sent for me, the rea-
son why I will shew you. The common fame among your people is
such, that ye have for the space of twenty or two and twenty years
ruled them very rigorously; but, if \i please our Lorde, I will help
you to govern better.' — Then the kynge answered, ' Fair cousin of
Lancaster, since it pleaseth you, it pleaseth me well.' — Stowe also
informs us that ' Kynge Richard had a grayhounde called Mathe,
who always waited upon the kynge, and would knowe no man else;
for whensoever the kynge did ryde, he that kepte the grayhounde did

* Stovve's Annals, p. oli.

32 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH V\ ALES.

let him lose, and he wolde streyght rune to the kynge, and fawne
upon, and leape with his fore-feet upon the kynge's shoulders. And
as the kynge and the Earle of Derby talked togyder in the courte, the
grayhounde, who was wont to leape upon the kynge, left the kynge,
and came to the Earle of Derby, Duke of Lancaster, and made to
him the same friendly continuance and chere as he was wont to do
to the kynge. The duke, who knew not the grayhounde, demanded
of the kynge what the dog would do ? ' Cosyn', quod the kynge, * it
is a great good token to you, and an evyll sygne to me.' — ' Sir,
how know you that ?' quod the duke : ' I know it well,' quod the
kynge, 'the grayhounde maketh you chere this day as Kynge of
Englande, as ye shall be, and I shall be deposed : the grayhounde
hath this knowlege naturalye, therefore, take him to you; he will
follow you and forsake me.' — The duke understood well those
words, and cherished the grayhounde, who wolde never after folowe
Kynge Richard, but folowed the Duke of Lancaster.'

Soon, however, this hollow show of respect was thrown aside, and
dropping the mask, with a high sharp voice the duke ordered forth
the king's horses ; and then ' two little nagges, not worth forty
franks, were brought out ; the king was set on the one, and the Earl
of Salisbury on the other ; and thus the duke brought the king from
Flint to Chester, where he was delivered to the sons of the Duke of
Gloucester and of the Earl of Arundel, whose fathers he had recently
put to death. They conducted him straight to the prison, and in
this ' dolorous castelle,' as it is termed by Hall, was deposed the
weak and unfortunate monarch, Richard IL'

It would appear, as in the case so pathetically alluded to in King
Lear, that even the ingratitude of the brute creation added a sting
to the broken spirit of the crownless monarch. Such an incident
could not escape the artist, studious of historical character in the old
picturesque times ; and Richard's favourite dog here appears as if
struck with the change in his master's demeanour, and, sensible of
his fallen fortunes, eager to fawn upon his rival.

After an interview like the foregoing, the speedy fate of

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 53

Richard, — the invariable fortune of a captive and dethroned
prince, — calls for no comment. In its most trying circumstances,
— such as the heartless parade of his victim through the country
in his progress to the capital, — how well does the exquisite descrip-
tion of our immortal dramatist exhibit the startling scene, and all
the traces of Bolingbroke's character ! With what peculiar felicity
he holds to view the noble moral — a fearful lesson to princes !

* Then, as I said, the duke, great Bolingbroke,
Mounted upon a hot and fiery steed,
Which his aspiring rider seem'd to know, —
With slow, but stately pace, kept on his course,
While all tongues cried — God save thee, Bolingbroke !
You would have thought the very windows spake.
So many greedy looks of young and old
Through casements darted their desiring eyes
Upon his visage ; and that all the walls,
With painted imag'ry, had said at once —
Jesu preserve thee ! welcome, Bolingbroke !
Whilst he, from one side to the other turning.
Bare-headed, lower than his proud steed's neck,
Bespake them thus — I thank you, countrymen :
And this still doing, thus he pass'd along.

Duch, Alas, poor Richard! where rides he the while ?

York. As in a theatre, the eyes of men.
After a well-grac'd actor leaves the stage.
Are idly bent on him that enters next,
Thinking his prattle to be tedious :
Even so, or with much more contempt, men's eyes
Did scowl on Richard : no man cried, God save him ;
No joyful tongue gave him his welcome home :
But dust was thrown upon his sacred head ;
Which with such gentle sorrow he shook off, —
His face still combating with tears and smiles.
The badges of his grief and patience, —
That had not God, for some strong purpose, steel'd
The hearts of men, they must perforce have melted,
And barbarism itself have pitied him.'

54 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

Ill the accompaiiying plate, the artist has also represented Rich-
ard's page attempting, with strong natural delicacy, to repress the
dog's efforts to fawn upon the proud usurper.

With regard to the foundation of Flint Castle, antiquarians are
to this day undecided. Camden and others, followed by Lord Lit-
telton, assert that it was commenced by Henry II. and completed
by the first Edward; while Leland adduces the authority of older
writers to attribute it altogether to the latter. After his rout and
escape to Euloe, it is probable that Henry erected some fortress on
the spot to resist any fresh attacks, and that the more enlarged cas-
tellated pile, in its strength and majesty, was the work of his great
descendant, the most powerful of English sovereigns. In 1277, an
order was issued for proclaiming a market and fair, to be held at
Flint — a measure soon after extended throughout Cheshire and
the cantreds of Wales. From the tenor of a writ, preserved by
Rymer, it would also appear that Edward I. resided in the castle,
the same year, about the period of the Feast of the Assumption.

In 1280, the year in which it was garrisoned, another mandate was
issued for the custody of the gate of Flint. Three years subsequent
the town received its first charter, was made a free borough, and a
mayor elected and sworn ' faithfully to maintain its liberties.'

The burgesses also received from Edward a grant of timber, cut
out of the woods of Northop and the adjacent lands, in order to
smelt their lead ore, and moreover a right of pasturage in the same
woods.

Wearied with the oppressions of successive masters, the Welsh at
length rose once more, led by Llewellyn and his brother David, and
Flint, like Hawardcn, was surprized and carried by storm. It was
here too, in 1311, that the first English Prince of Wales — Edward
of Caernarvon, the son of the Conqueror — received from exile his
favourite. Piers Gaveston, who had landed from Ireland, and by
his infatuated weakness suffered a fate still more terrible than that
inflicted by his father on the last native princes of the country.

In 1355, Edward the Black Prince received orders, as Earl of

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 55

Chester, to take into safe custody the castles of FUnt and llhud(]lan,
which he possessed by charter, in common with that of Chester,
and the cantred and lands of Englefield.

In the formidable insurrection of Owen Glendower, that able
chieftain, in vain attempted to possess himself of the fortress, from
which time a blank occurs in its history, till we reach the period of
the Civil Wars. It was then garrisoned for the king by Sir Roger
Mostyn, of whom Whitelock makes the following honourable men-
tion : — ' This Colonel Mostyn is my sister's son, a gentleman of
good parts and metal ; of a very ancient family, large possessions,
and great interest in the country, so that in twelve hours he raised
fifteen hundred for the king.' In the siege of 1643, he made a des-
perate defence against the Parliamentary general. Sir W. Brereton,
and it was not till every method was exhausted, and every privation
suffered, that he yielded, in order to preserve the garrison. The
castle appears to have been subsequently recovered by the royalists,
as the garrison of Beeston had by articles of convention marched
out of that fortress, in 1645, with all the honours of war 'to join their
countrymen in Flint Castle.' But it was again compelled to yield
to General Mytton in 1646, and in the year following was disman-
tled, with many other fortresses, by order of the Parliament. Its
gallant governor was ill-requited for his services by the Crown, for
after having expended upwards of sixty thousand pounds, and
suffering a long imprisonment in Conway Castle, he was reduced
to leave his family seat, and live privately at an ordinary farm
house.

At the Restoration the Castle of Flint was resumed by, and is still
vested in, the Crown ; and, according to the tenor of ancient royal
grants, the constable appointed appears in the two-fold character
of military and municipal head — being at once Governor of the
fortress and Mayor of the borough.

Northop, three miles distant, is considered the mother church to
the chapel of Flint, which contains three monuments in the shape
of altar-tombs. On each is a recumbent effig)-, and one is of con-

56 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

siderable antiquity ; but the inscriptions are nearly obliterated.
The remainder of that decorated with a female figure has round it
Llewc * ***** anno Domini, 1482. According to tradition,
her name was Lleuci Lloyd, a celebrated beauty of that period ;
perhaps the same so fatally beloved by a favourite bard, who, on
returning after a long separation, met with the same shock as the
Chevalier de Ranee,* for each of them is said to have found his
beloved in a coffin. The bard, after fainting at the sight, and
again reviving, sat down and composed a beautiful elegy to the
lady's memory. The count is said also to have swooned, but on
being restored he retired from the world ; and, as a sort of atone-
ment for illicit love, founded the Monastery of La Trappe, so long
celebrated for its austere discipline.

* Pennant's Tour, vol. i, 115.

CHAPTER V.

ST. ASAPH, RHLDDLAX, AM) TUK VIlINlTV.

Far other thoughts, in inexperienced hours,
Enchantress ! winged me to thy fairy bowers.
The festive roar was dissonance : my soul
Sunk at the riot of the maddening bowl.
With noiseless foot from the tumultuous crew
To muse in viewless wanderings I withdrew.
Till, unperceived, the twilight's fading ray,
Left me lone-lingering on the pathless way.

Sotheby.

There are moods of mind — the result, perhaps, of too deep expe-
rience or long travel, such as dictated some of the wildest and most
pathetic poetry of Byron — when the beaten tracks of life, society,
friendship, and the yet hollower promises of ambition, seem to lose
their evei*y charm. The thoughts of the heart revert, with a sigh of
regret, to earlier and more genuine affections, — more unembittered
pursuits. We sigh to cast off the worldly mask which custom con-
demns us to wear — to turn from the empty forms and insincerity
which direct the grand movements, and perform the lip-service of
the day, and to shelter us in the sanctuary of younger and nobler
feelings, when we worshipped the divine effusions of genius as holy
truth, and dwelt on the beautiful and bright in nature with the love
of a child on its smiling mother's face.

With this irrepressible love, so early rooted — with habits of deep
solitary study and contemplation which strongly marked his charac-
ter and feelings, and with that restlessness which an early unhappy
passion and wounded ambition equally produce, — the Wanderer
turned from the resorts of the great and the gay with a feeling of
scorn and satiety, which seemed to render change of scene almost
necessary to his being. He had studied life — as it is idly termed

I

58 WANDEniNGS THROlfill NORTH WALES.

— under ditferont aspects, and in all its conditions ; he had beheld
society in its equally vulgar extremes ; he had experienced the
strange mutabilities of fortune, and he now wandered solitary
amidst scenes over which fancy, ennobling love, and youthful com-
panionsiiip, had cast the spoil of their brief but glorious reign.

The ruins of the time-dismantled castle of Flint, which threw its
broad shadow in the clear moonlight upon the sands, like the reflec-
tion of those vanished scenes, assorted well with the traveller's
mood, as he resumed his onward patli. Within the precincts
of those mouldering battlements monarchs had met, — a monarch
laid down his crown ; they had rung with the storms of battle,
and re-echoed with the wildest revelry of feudal victory and
pride. A brave people had there surrendered up their ancient
freedom at the feet of their last oppressor, little regardful of the
blessings which such a conquest had in store for them ; and with
thoughts strangely speculating on the results of human action,
and the great compensatory system of mingled good and evil,
the traveller gazed back upon what were once the massive bulwarks
of Flint, fast crumbling into dust. He listened to the growing swell
of those eternal surges which came sweeping over the sands, when
the bulwarks were in their glory, as now they hasten their decay ;
and the moon shed a fitful light on the bleak prospect and far-
spreading shores of the Dee, as he pursued the lonely path along the
banks towards the ancient Abbey of Basingwerk. Free as the native
mountaineer to select his own time and route, without the breath
of another's will, he felt the sense of loneliness lost in the ' strong
and far delight ' of exploring at pleasure scenes and spots congenial
with the prevailing impulses of the hour. It was this feeling which
induced him, on reaching his native hills once more, — a sadder
but a wiser man, — to throw off all ties and incumbrances of the
way, and taking the cross-roads and well-known bye-paths, to
resume acquaintance with the immemorial dwellers by the lake and
hill-side — friends of the forest, and vale, and glen, with some of
whom, humouring their national foible, he often loved to descant

WANDERINGS THKOUGII NOltTIl WALES. .">'.)

on princely lineage, and the respective merit of their titles to rank
with the common or the royal tribes. By this plan he enjoyed
the best of all companionship, which he could drop or take up at
any moment ; gleaned many amusing particulars as to antiquarian
games and sports, the old laws of assemblies and festivals, with
the more traditional customs and manners of country life, and
in return laid down the rules enacted by their first princes in the
bardic contests for the prize of song. In his progress from
Euloe he thus visited every spot, along the high-ways and bye-
ways, which could excite his curiosity, or win him by the study of
simple habits and reliance on personal exertion and resources,
to free himself from the real serviUty of irksome dependence upon
menials for his least wants and wishes. The advantages he derived
were as pleasant as they were unexpected ; he experienced the de-
lightful confidence inspired by traversing the less frequented por-
tions of the country at all hours and seasons — he beheld its wild
picturesque scenery in its most contrasted lights and shadows — in
cloud, in sunshine, or in storm — in the silence and the deepening
hues of twilight — the opening splendours of the dawn, and under
the solemn sway of night.

In thus diverging from the old prescribed routes and line of
roads, the Wanderer, on his way to St. Asaph, became acquainted
with a number of interesting objects, — pleasant little hamlets, — the
sites of ancient towns, stations, or royal seats — feudal and castel-
lated ruins, which he could not otherwise have explored. The
dreary coast-scenes about Kelsterston ; the antique Northop, Nan-
nerch, Halkin, Caerwys, — once the theatre of the old British
Olympics, and the assemblies of the bards, with the surrounding
neighbourhood, so full of historic associations; — Baghilt, Basing-
werk, with its famed old abbey and castle-ruins on Offa's dyke,
Pen y Pylle, Greenfield, Holywell, Whiteford, Downing, — sacred
in the eyes of every tourist, — Moyston, with its wild-coast views,
all in succession met the Wanderer's eye ere he passed the rocky,
broken road from Holywell, and saw opening before him tlu'

60 UANUEUlNtjiS THHOUUIl NOllTll WALES.

delightful vale and river of Clwvd. He had often remarked the
assemblage of mild yet picturesque beauties it affords, especially
when viewed from the vicinity of Ruthin; but the quiet charm
and loveliness of the scene, as he passed the seat of Sir E. Lloyd,
throufrh this Eden — as it is termed — of North Wales, with the little
town and spire, seen on the hilly declivity before him, inspired
feelings of deep serenity and repose, which it was long since he had
experienced.

The fertile tract of valley in which St. Asaph is situated extends
not less than twenty-five miles in length and eight in breadth.
Watered by its pleasant river, its productiveness, as well as beauty,
may be regarded as unequalled by that of any other district. From
the Bridge, with its light arches, the Cathedral tower, dark and massy
on the summit of the hill, is seen to much advantage. The structure
itself, though the diocesan church, and the ornament of a bishop's
see, has few' pretensions to architectural excellence or beauty. Its
history begins Avith Kentigern Bishop of Glasgow, who, like
tome Scotch pastors of recent times, being driven from his pulpit,
withdrew into Wales, and established a Monastery for 965 monks,
part for labour and part for prayer, on a plan similar to that of
Bangor. He built a church, established a see, and made himself
the first Bishop of St. Asaph. But, invited back to Glasgow, some
time in the sixth century, he named Hassaph, a Briton of great
piety and of a good family, as his successor, who, on his death, was
interred in his own cathedral, in 596. It was first built of wood,
and soon after of stone. In the reign of Henry III. it was des-
troyed by fire and sword; and, incredible as it rtiay now appear, its
English bishop reduced to live upon alms. It was rebuilt, and in
1*282 again burnt to the ground, and restored by Edward I., who
granted to it lands in Newmarket, Nannerch, Dincolyn, Coed y
Mynydd, and a fine mineral tract in Diserth ; — in all about 409
acres, valued at only six-pence each. In 1402, Owen Glendower
set fire to it, involving the palace and canons' houses in the same
conflagration. On this its bishop, one John Trevor, conceived it

S3

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. Gl

most prudent to join Owen's party, but was unexpectedly, in conse-
quence, deprived of his see. The cathedral fell into ruins for the
space of nearly a century, when it owed its re-establishment to
Richard lledmund. This is the neat, plain, handsome building,
according to Mr. Pennant, which is still to be seen. The choir
was restored by the dean and chapter, in imitation of the gothic
and noble remains of Tintern Abbey, of which the east window
affords the most beautiful specimen.

The monuments are few ; one is supposed to commemorate the
munificent Bishop David, son of Owen, who died in 1512; and
near the west door is raised a plain altar-monument to the good
Barrow, who was first Bishop of the Isle of Man. His piety, and
charity in founding schools, repairing the cathedral, the mills,
founding alms-houses, and other good works, made him venerated
and beloved. He had the honour of educating the greatest
mathematician and the ablest divine of his age. Dr. Isaac Barrow,
the tutor of the great Newton himself.

The members of the chapter are the dean, the arch-deacon,
(who is the bishop) six prebendaries, and seven canons. Besides
these, there are also attached to the parish church four vicars-choral,
four singing-men, four choristers, and an organist. The palace was
rebuilt by Bishop David, son of Owen, after lying a century in
ruins, and was greatly enlarged and beautified by Lewis Bagot, in
the form in which it at present appears. Near the Parish Church
is seen a very curious tomb, ornamented with foliage, a shield with
a lion rampant ; and beneath, a sword held by a hand, with the in-
scription— Hie jacet Ranulfus de Smabvode. It is said to have
been brought from Rhuddlan; but there is no account of the person
whose memory it is meant to perpetuate.

The eloquent and apostolic Beveridge was another great orna-
ment of the see, and received the distinguished title of ' the
restorer and reviver of primitive piety.' His Private Tlioiights will
preserve the purity of their fame so long as a spark of true devotion
is left in the land. But good and great as he was, he was perhaps

6'J WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

surpassed in reputation by his predecessor Morgan, who succeeded
the beneficent Bishop Hughes, and was one of the most celebrated
Unguists and deep-read prelates of any time. He was the chief
translator of the Welsh edition of the Bible, printed in 1588, and
he had some siiare in the English version commonly known as
Queen Klizabeth's Bible.

There are some curious passages of ecclesiastical history preserved
by Mr. Yorke, arising out of a quarrel between Bishop Morgan and
Sir John Wynn, of Gwydir, in the year 1603. It would seem
that the baronet took some merit to himself as an old patron of
the prelate, and felt aggrieved that when made bishop he declined
to confirm Sir John's lease upon the rectory of Llanrwst. In his
letter to the new bishop, he dwells feelingly on his ' greefe to
mysse, having never failed before in any attempt; that he had
rather forego 100/. a year; that he had purchased the lease very
dear, and that the bishop, by refusing to confirm it, w^ould fall in
the world's esteem.' To these charges the bishop pithily made
answer — ' I pray God that youre greefe of myssynge be not
Achab's greefe for Nabothe's vineard. Moreover 100/. landes. Sir
John, are worth 200/. tyth. Youe have shewed me much kynd-
nesse, but no unhonest kyndnesse. Youe shall not be better
esteemed by gettynge ungodleye requestes, but worse thought of;
for to fayle of bad attemptes ys no shame ; but to relinquish them
will be greate credyt. So many chypps have been taken allreadye
from the church, that yt is readye to fall. God hath blessed youe
so well, that youe are bounde rather to helpe his poore church than
to hynder it. Thus, with my heartiest commendations to youre
selfe and good mystres Wynne, I reaste eveare youre owne in y^
Lord, William Asaphen.'

In his reply to the bishop. Sir John begins — ' Hominihus ingratis
loquimini lapidesf and, reminding the prelate of his obligations,
says — ' The sower went out to sowe ; and some of his seede fell in
stonie ground, where hitt wythered, because hitt could take noe
roote. The seede was good, but the land naught; and justly soe

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. C,',]

may I say by youe. I have in all shewed my selfe youre ffroinde,
in soe much, as yf I had not pointed youe the waye with my finger,
youe had beene styll Vicar of Llanrhayder. Youe pleade con-
science when youe should give, and make no bones to receave curtesie
of youre ffreindes. Nether was the losse of the thynge that I regard
a dodkyn, but your unkinde dealinge. Hitt shall lesson me to ex-
pect noe sweete fruite of a sower stocke. Youre verball love I
esteeme as nothinge ; and I make noe doubt (with God's good
favour) to live to be able to pleasure youe, as much as youe shall
me, et e contra.' Sir John then enumerates the various benefits
he had conferred on plain William Morgan, who, when he became
a great dignitary, ' remembered no more thereof, then that I had
lent him my geldynge to go to Llandda, and had sent hym a fatt
oxe att hys fyrst comynge to St. Assaphe. Which ys to stravne a
gnatt and swallow a camell.'*

The diocese of St. Asaph contains the whole of Flintshire, with
the exception of the following parishes — Hanmer, Hawarden,
Bangor, Orton-Madoc, and Wortenbury, which are annexed to the
see of Chester. It includes the whole county of Denbigh, with the
exception of the deanery of Dyffryn Clwyd, the chapelries of Holt
and Iscoed, comprehended in the see of Chester, and Penley in that
of Lichfield and Coventry ; about half the county of Merioneth, —
namely, the hundred of Mowddy, PenljTi, and Edeirnion; three
parishes in Caernarvonshire, thirty-seven in Montgomeryshire ;
with eleven churches and chapels in the county of Salop; com-
prising in the whole one hundred and thirty churches and chapels,
all of which, except seven, are in the gift of the bishop, whose
revenues, as charged in the King's books, amount to 187/. lis. 8d.,
but the estimated value is from three to four thousand pounds
per annum, to which may be added a most extensive patronage.

The town of St. Asaph itself contains few or no objects of
interest to induce the tourist to pay it more than a passing visit.

* Royal Tribes of Wales, p. 139, 41.

G4 WAxnERiNf^s Tiinorr.H xonTii \v.\i,f.s.

The buildings erected are in ijeneral low and small, built ol"
brick, and disposed in one long, uniform street. According to
some returns made to Parliament, it consists of two hundred and
seventy-two houses, with a population scarcely amounting to two
thousand. But the surrounding views, from several points, fully
suffice to attract the steps of the pedestrian, and more than com-
pensate for any want of interest in the place. Besides the pros-
pect already mentioned, there are others scarcely less inviting ;
that on the road from St. Asaph, along the common called the
Row, is full of beauty; the vale is seen watered by the Elwy,
which runs beneath lofty and richly wooded banks, and at its
extremity the noble bridge appears to great advantage. The
river there takes a new direction, running west and then north,
along most romantic dingles, varied with meadow^s, woods, and
cavernous rocks.

Neither is it destitute of antiquities. Y fynnon-fair, or our Lady's
well, is a fine spring inclosed in an angular wall ; there are the ruins
of a cross-shaped chapel, finely overgrowai with ivy, and highly
picturesque as they appear from a deeply wooded bottom, not far
from the bridge ; thither, in the days of pilgrimage, resorted de-
votees of every rank and age, bearing offerings of their gratitude, or
soliciting aid in distress. On the eminence above, appears the seat
of the Lloyds, descended, according to Mr. Pennant, from one of
the fifteen tribes, in whose right they enjoy the ancient seat of
Hafodynos. The most splendid view, how'ever, of these pictu-
resque glens is from Pencraig, on the grounds of Galt-vaenan ;
thence you discover an innumerable variety of beauties — the milder
and more softened features of the country.

At Llanerch, also, the Wanderer paused to admire the deli-
cious view of the vale, with the majestic boundary between the
Clwyd and Flintshire. The intervening grounds and inclosures
running high up the hills, and various portions seen glowing with the
purple flowers of the heath to the setting sun, and a succession
of churches, hamlets, and seats, give at once relief and repose to

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 05

the whole scene. On ascending high above Llanerch, the entire
valley breaks upon the eye, with the far western boundaries, and
the tracts of the lofty Snowdon beyond. Midway from end to
end, the prospect is enriched with towns and castles ; and tower-
ing above the rest, frowns the rock of Denbigh, the shattered
fragments of its castle crowning the summit of its isolated hill.
Towards the north might be discerned the remains of the fallen
Rhuddlan, — whither the Wanderer was now turning his steps, —
and, in the distance, the dark receding mountains, perpendicular
rocks, and the still mightier boundary of the ocean.

Proceeding across the country by Bodygan, Yrhiallt, Combe,
Newmarket, Meliden, nearly to the coast, the traveller at length
approached the ancient, war-famed site of Rhuddlan. This once
grand station, with its palace-fortress, he beheld dwindled into an
insignificant village. Its castle, the residence of royalty, was
erected before the Norman conquest, by Llewellyn ap Sitsylt,
early in the eleventh century. His son Gryffydd, having given
umbrage to Edward the Confessor, was overthrown by Harold,
who took the castle and burnt the palace. They were restored,
under William the Conqueror, by Robert, a nephew of Hugh
Lupus, who fortified the place with new works, and carried on a
system of depredation upon the natives. It was partly destroyed
by the warlike Gryffydd ap Cynan ; but, in 1157, was once more
restored by Henry II. In the wars of the country it frequently
exchanged masters, and we have related how the siege was once
raised by an army of itinerant minstrels, fiddlers, tinkers, and
mountebanks. Earl Randle rewarded his deliverer by appointing
him to the singular office of ' Magisterium Omnium peccatorum et
Tneretricum totius Cestreshire.' By virtue of this legal instrument,
we are told, the descendants of Hugh Dalton, in the reign of
Henry VII., when the rights of Welshmen were allowed, preferred
their claim to an annual payment of four-pence from every female
of a certain notoriety within the county of Chester ; and ordered all
the minstrels exercising their profession to appear before them, or

K

66 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

their stewards, annually on the festival of St. John the Baptist.
Neither were they to appear with unfurnished hands nor empty
purse ; each was to bring a lance, four flaggons of wine, and pay
four-pence half-penny for a licence granted to protect him in the
exercise of his calling. This privilege being annexed to certain
estates, the custom was continued for centuries ; and the anni-
versary, when modern minstrels went in procession to hear divine
service in St. John's church, was observed till the year 1758.

The castle, it is recorded, was built of the red sand-stone found
in the adjacent rocks. The form is nearly that of a square, and the
walls are flanked by six round towers, three of which continue
almost entire. The fosse is wide and deep, and on both sides the
excavation is faced with stone. The steep escarpement to the river
side was secured by walls, in which were placed square bastions,
one of which is yet standing. The walls embrace a spacious octa-
gonal area, round which were ranged different apartments. In one
of these, while the English court was spending their Christmas at
Rhuddlan, the consort of King Edward is stated to have given
birth to a daughter. But according to tradition, the event took
place at a private palace of the King, and an old house, still the
property of the Crown, is supposed to have been the place of the
queen's accouchement.

At a short distance from the castle, a Monastery of Black Friars
was founded sometime previous to the year 1268; for in that year
Anian, the prior, was preferred to the see of St. Asaph. It suffered
in the frequent conflicts for possession of the castle ; yet it subsisted,
it appears, till the general suppression of religious houses, though
no mention is made by Dugdale or Speed of its annual revenues.

Rhuddlan was made a free borough by Edward I., who conferred
upon it numerous other privileges. The charter which he granted
was signed at Flint. It appointed the constable of the castle to be
mayor, and two bailiffs, elected by the burgesses, on Michaelmas-
day, were to appear before him for administering of the customary
oaths. The corporation were allowed the power of trial and im-

WANDERINGS TIIKOUGH NORTH WALES. 67

prisonment ; no Jews were peranitted to reside within the town or
precincts ; and the burgesses had, besides, the liberty of a forest and
free warren, with the important addition of a gild cum hansa et
loth, et shoth, sok, s^k, et theam, et enfangentheft, et lib, per totam
terram de Theoloniis, lestagio, muragio, Danegeld, Gaywite, &c.
When tyranny, it is asserted, in a future period attempted to abridge
these curious privileges, and destroy their immunities, the men of
Rhuddlan came forward with a spirited remonstrance, couched in
law-latin, which, seconded by their fierce air and imposing numbers,
obtained for them the desired I'edress. The burgesses to this day
retain a voice in electing a representative to Parliament; but to be
qualified, persons must be inhabitants of the place, or resident
within what is called Rhuddlan franchise. The Clv\^'d is navigable
to this place; at its mouth, where its waters seek the sea, is the
port, at the Vorrj^d, where vessels come to take in corn, timber,
and other produce of the country. Boats, of about seventy tons
burthen, take advantage of the tide, which, ruiming sufficiently
high to the old bridge, built in 1595, carries them to the quay.

Morfa Rhuddlan is celebrated in history as the scene of many a
wild and stormy encounter during the civil dissensions and foreign
invasions which kept the Cambro- Britons almost continually in the
field. As he trod its dreary, extensive marsh, the Wanderer recalled
to mind that terrific conflict between the Welsh and Saxons, in
which the latter triumphed, and Prince Caradoc, with the flower
of his army, was slain. Nor did he forget, in his sympathy for the
fallen, the noble and beautiful lament of the bard, the air of which
is so exquisitely plaintive, as he breathed forth its patriotic male-
diction on the memory of the Mercian King, who, in the indiscrimi-
nate slaughter of men and children, preserved the objects of their
tenderest affections to satiate the barbarous appetites of his soldiers.*

* According to the Welsh accounts, Offa, the famous King of ?.Iereia, was slain in
this battle; but the Saxon Chronicle fixes the date of his death a year previous to it.

()8 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

lltMV (led CJryffydd ap Cynan, pursued by his refractory subjects, to
seek assistance from the Nonnan ; but after receiving aid and hos-
pitaHty, he attacked Robert in his castle, set fire to his possessions,
and killed a number of his adherents. Incensed at his duplicity,
the Norman Earl resolved to pursue him with unsparing vengeance,
but the good fortune of the Welsh Prince — so remarkable through-
out the whole of his career — still prevailed. On the third of July,
1088, Gryffydd entered the Conway with three ships, and leaving
them on shore at low water, proceeded to ravage the country which
belonged to Hugh Lupus, the uncle of Robert. With the singular
ill-luck which attended his every undertaking in this last war, he
ventured, while his soldiers were gathering from different points, to
reconnoitre too closely to the shore, attended only by Osborne de
Orger, and was surprised and slain.

On this wild tract imagination called up to view the hosts of suc-
cessive nations which had battled for the sway of empire, and lay
encamped around its once grand and threatening fortress. Along
this plain had the English Henrys and Edwards — the founders of
our military greatness — passed on to conquests which carried the
English banners to the remotest East and West, in which they were
at length nobly supported by the loyal Britons, whom they so long
failed to subdue : within those ruinous precincts, buried in the un-
broken sleep of ages, which he now musingly explored, throwing the
broad shadow of faded glory on his path, had royalty triumphed,
and rovellod, and wept : for in those walls the crownless son of
their conquerors had been borne captive, and thence carried with
ignominy and reviling through the land which he had swayed.*

In the lonely freedom of his spirit, the Wanderer smiled, half in
sorrow, half in scorn, as he passed through the once magnificent
gate-way of the castle, and contemplated the solitary gothic window

* Floro, according to Oiraldus, Henry II. was sum|)tnously entertained. Tlie Earl of
Nortlintntierland seized the castle, in 1399, previous to the deposition of Richard II., who
dinoii iicre on his wav to Flint Castle.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 69

of the hall which held the conqueror's parliament, turned to the
ignoble uses of a common barn. How idle seemed the conflict of
human passions — vaulting ambition — the petty pride and glory of
kings ! He felt the full truth of the psalmist's lament for the slain
on the mountains of Gilboa, ' How are the mighty fallen, and the
weapons of war perished !' and how hollow, base, and vulgar, ap-
peared to him then the pursuit of objects such as monarchs and
their minion-lords had made to themselves idols of, at the expense
of the happiness of countless millions.* Alas ! he thought, how
long and dread an account have not ill-starred royalty, aristocratic
baseness and treachery, priestly servility and rapacity, to render
up of their stewardship, — of vainly and proudly assuming the di-
rection of the destinies of the great family of man. How often
have these halls and deserted courts rung with the glad voices
of the proudest, the gayest, and the most lovely of England's
once-famed nobility ! Behold an example of the fortunes of the
haughty and the vain-glorious of the earth ; and as surely as yon
once-towering bulwarks lie levelled with the dust, shall their
strength and glory pass aw^ay, and their splendour become dim.

Formerly the residence of the native princes, Rhuddlan, after its
fall, continued in possession of the English. Repeated attempts
w^ere made by the Welsh to regain it, and it sustained continual sieges
till the final conquest of the country. It repulsed a terrific attack
by Llewellyn and his brother David in the last contest, in 1281,
and became the dungeon of the latter prince, previous to his igno-
minious execution. In the time of Charles I. the castle was occu-

- Ambition's honour'd fools !

Yes, honour decks the turf that wraps their clay !
Vain sophistry ! in these behold the tools,
The broken tools that tyrants cast away
By myriads, when they dare to pave their way
With human hearts — to what ? a dream alone !
Can despots compass ought that hails their sway,
Or call, with truth, one span of earth their own.
Save that wherein at last they crumble bone by bone ?'

70 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

pied bv the royalists ; but, after a brief siege, it surrendered to the
able general M) tton. In the December following it was dismantled
by order of the parliament.

Proceeding towards the elevation on the south side, called Tut-
hill, whence the fortress was often battered, the Wanderer examined
the traces of a still more ancient fortification, surrounded by a deep
fosse, inchuUng the abbey, which crosses from the margin of the
bank, near the ascent of the present road to St. Asaph, to another
parallel road, and falls nearly into the southern part of the walled
ditch of the castle.

From Rhuddlan, the Wanderer made excursions to some of the
neighbouring spots of most interest, as he had before done from
Flint to the ancient Caerwys, Halkin, Downing, and Llanasaph.
Among these he selected Diserth, Gronant Moor, Prestatyn Castle,
Gwaenysgor, where he passed some time in visiting the old sites
and remains pointed out by Mr. Pennant, and, on returning, walked
about five miles across Rhuddlan Marsh to Abergeley.

His entrance into Denbighshire by this less frequented route,
presented him with some novel scenery, combining features of the
wilder cast, — the steril wastes, the sands, and coast views along the
jagged shores, with the milder beauties of the interior, — the pic-
turesque ruins of antique halls and castles, and the hills of
Denbigh and Caernarvon, appearing with softened hues in the
distance. Situated on the edge of Rhuddlan Marsh, its clear sea-
air and noble sands render Abergeley, though a mean town in
itself, a favourite resort in the summer and autumnal sea-
sons. Along the same line of coast he advanced up to Llan-
drillo, to the still bleaker Penmaen Rhos, Rhos Fynach, and back
by Llandulas. Being within a mile of the lofty precipice of Cefn
Ogo, near the clayey cliffs which impend over the sea, he sought
out the magnificent cavern, the entrance to which has been des-
cribed as resembling the portal of a noble cathedral, arched and
divided within by what has the appearance of a huge column.
Tradition states, that in old times the sea here overwhelmed a vast

VVANDEIUNGS THROUGH NOUTn WALES. 71

tract of inhabited country, extending at least two miles northward ;
and Mr. Pennant mentions an epitaph on the church-yard wall,
shown as evidence on this head : — ' In this church yard lies a man
who lived three miles to the north of it.'

In the vicinity of Abergeley the Wanderer also visited Cegidoc,
formerly annexed to St. Asaph ; and high above it the strong posi-
tion occupied by Owen Gwynedd, after his famous retreat, and in
which he foiled all the efforts of the invader.*

Twilight was fast gathering on shore and plain, as the Wanderer
bent his way to the beach of Abergeley, intending with the first
gleam of dawn to pursue his walks through Denbigh to the more
lovely and romantic neighbourhood of Llangollen. Night and
silence began to draw closer their veil over the prospect far
along the now dim-seen hills, and no sound met his ear but the
rippling of the wave, or the dash of the distant oar.

' Soft on the wave the oars at distance sound,

The night-breeze sighing through the leafy spray,

With gentle whisper murmurs all around.

Breathes on the placid sea, and dies away.

As sleeps the moon upon her cloudless height,

And the swoln spring-tide heaves beneath the light,

Slow lingering on the solitary shore,

Along the dewy path my steps I bend,

Lonely to yon forsaken fane descend.
To muse on youth's wild dreams amid the ruins hoar.'

Tour through Wales.

* Henry II., who, after severe losses already alluded to, found his progress effec-
tually checked by the bold impregnable position called Pen y Pare. It is stated by
Lord Lyttelton that he retreated to the Snowdon hills.

CHAPTER VI.

LLANGOLLEN, VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY, CHIRK CASTLE, &C,

Boi.n, beauteous land ! where simple piety

And freedom, in thy sanctuary of bills.

Long nurs'd the light of Christian precepts pure,
*****

Where honour walked in the glad muse's train, —

Famed chiefs and loveliest woman homage yielded.

In palace-hall and bower, to song divine, —

Where antique customs — manly sports — frank bearing —

'Neath laws of the good Howel, — left the fame

Of Britain's virtues, brightening still through time.

The Wanderer.

To those who experience pleasure in mere change of scene, and a
swift succession of inanimate objects, the characteristics of mind,
the exertion of thought and reasoning, warm affections, or sympa-
thy with the vicissitudes and sufferings of a people, too often, per-
haps, appear wholly superfluous. Yet, without he carry some human
sjTnpathies about him, — some sensibility to the interests, wants, and
objects of the people he visits, arising out of a knowledge of their
history, — the traveller deprives himself of the finest and purest
sources of enjoyment ; at the best, he only emulates the genius of a
surveyor of roads and rivers, — a sort of courier-chronicler of hours,
places, and distances, occasionally, perhaps, rising into luminous
descriptions of circumstances and details which are pretty sure of
being experienced alike, without anticipation, by every tourist.

To one of the Wanderer's temperament, at least, the kind of con-
ventional preparation which such prescription of the beaten route
involves, — the given how — the when — and the whereabouts — with
the annexed description on the most recent scale, and distances in
the exactest order, — had a peculiarly anti-locomotive power which

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALF.S. 73

deterred him from taking many an excursion, especially if they
applied to a country nearly as familiar to him as his own. He
had, unfortunately, early entertained a foolish prejudice in favour
of the old travellers, who dwelt with more complacency on
manners and on men than on posts and mile-stones, — giving,
with more clearness, their own notions of the characteristics and
appearances which presented themselves, than the manner of get-
ting over a certain space in a given period of time — agreeably
to the latest improved method — and at an expence calculated
something between a half-franc and a whole one.

For the same reason, the most elaborate description of external
nature, or a succession of the most magnificent scenes and natu-
ral objects, could never wholly interest his mind. It was his de-
light to make himself familiar with the popular character, — the
hopes and reminiscences of nations, — previously to his inquiries into
their existing habits and pursuits, or their future prospects, like
children of the same family whose parts and dispositions he had
studied in the great community of man. With these views, the
Wanderer had commenced his earliest rambles in the Principality,
and he now left the more steril mountain-tracts and shores of Caer-
narvon and Flintshire for the interior of Denbighshire, where the
wild romantic character of the country is agreeably relieved by the
milder aspect and far-spreading beauty and fertility of plains and
valleys. The signs of modern improvement, as he proceeded, gave
rise to a fresh train of ideas, connected with the increasing comfort
and prosperity of the inhabitants. Pleased with the contrast which
more cheerful views and the happier appearance of the natives
produced — for he now met fewer of the swarthy forgers and miners
in proportion to the peasantry, cottagers, and woodmen, — he
directed his attention to modern institutions, as well as to the more
ancient sites to which any stirring or amusing recollections at-
tached. Upon all sides he was struck with the marked changes
which the last few years seemed to have wrought in the mind and
character, no less than in the external features of the country.

L

74 \\ ANDEIIINGS THIlOrGII NORTH WALES.

Public spirit, general intelligence, new inventions, aided by the
natural genius and industry of the people, had given rise to great
undertakings, effecting the happiest of all revolutions by the pro-
gress of knowledge and national prosperity ; and he now observed
less of the barren or gloomy scenery than he had passed through
in his fonner visits.

To speak, therefore, of this great and populous district, in the
interesting periods of the great Roderick and his sons, or dur-
ing the Roman, Saxon, Danish, and Norman dominion, is not
his present object; for he began to feel a more living interest
in the fortunes of this honest, frank-minded people, and in the
numerous alterations, made since his previous rambles, which met
his eye at almost every step. The fast-increasing value of ter-
ritorial property and estates, the rapid progress in every branch
of science, education, wealth, and agricultural improvement,
forcibly called to mind the truth of that happy observation of
the ingenious antiquary, Robert Vaughan, " we may well say
we were conquered to our gain, and undone to our advantage."*

Presenting a contrast of the most rugged with the richest and
most picturesque features of landscape, this county comprehends
467,840 acres, including the fertile vales of Clwyd and Llangollen,
finely wooded, and watered by the river of the former name. It
contains ninety-five parish towns and townships, nearly fifteen
thousand houses, upwards of eighty thousand inhabitants, and
returns two members to Parliament. As regards its boundaries,
Mr. Pennant is believed to have made the singular mistake of
placing a great part of Denbighland, as it was termed, within the
old principality of Powis. The largest portion, on the contrary',
was comprehended in the upper division of Gwynedd, or North
Wales ; and it is described as bounded on the north and west by
the Irish sea, from the Dee at Basingwerk to Aberdyfi in Merion-
ethshire ; on the south-west by the river Dyfi, separating it in part

* Periissemus nisi periissemus.

WANDERINGS THItOUGH NORTH WAI.LS. 75

from South Wales; and on the south and east, by a mountain,
river, or local discriminating line, till it again finds a boundary on
the banks of the Dee. For a considerable time subsequently to the
Conquest, Wales was not regularly divided nor equally governed ;
some parts were divided into shires, while others were not legally
shire-grounds. In the latter portion the laws of England were not
introduced, 'because, ' as it is expressed, 'all the ordinary ministers
and executioners of those laws, or persons vested with Viscountiel
jurisdiction, are the officiating sheriffs, coroners, escheators, &c.'

Denbighland thus continued to be governed by its own ancient
laws, directed by the usages and customs of the country. The
constitutions of Howel the Good* were thus long preserved in their
original meaning, and the inhabitants were not subjected to the
payments made by those of the more strictly incorporated circuits
till the time of Henry VHI. That monarch executed a plan for
the entire annexation of the Principality to the English crown.

Denbighshire, moreover, is bounded on the north-east by Flint-
shire, from which it is separated on the east by the Dee ; on the
north-east by Shropshire, on the south by Montgomeryshire and
Merionethshire ; and by the Conway, which forms a reciprocal
boundary between this and Caernarvonshire, on the west. Its ex-
tent from north-west to south-west is forty-eight miles ; its breadth
twenty ; the circumference one hundred and seventy ; and the
area is computed at six-hundred and seventy miles ; it is subdi-
vided into six districts. Upwards of twelve thousand of the inhabi-
tants are employed in trades or manufacture, and nearly thirty
thousand in the labours of agriculture.

Denbighshire to the west abounds with hills, at the foot of which
are found small lakes which, with their falls, supply a number of
meandering streams ; the northern side is also mountainous, if we
except part of the coast, and the lowland range which extends over
the plains of Rhuddlan. It is observed of a portion of the district

* IlywcU Dda.

76 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

by Lelaiul, that 'this commote is the worst part of all Denbighland
and most barren.' But from the embouchure of the Clwyd up to its
source, along an extensive tract on both sides, the country is equally
beautiful and fertile, stretching through the hundreds of Isaled and
Uuthin into a delightful valley more than twenty miles in length,
and from five to seven in breadth. Embosomed almost on every
side by wild, barren mountains, presenting a marked contrast to
smiling meads and rich productive tracts, suggesting only ideas
of industry and plenty, — towns, hamlets, and mansions enliven the
scene in every direction, and we are here reminded of the happy
valley described by the author of Rasselas. Indeed, if we may
judge from some remarkable coincidences, the great moralist would
seem to have had Camden's account of the fcelix vallis, as he terms
it, in a vein of ardent eulogy, really in his eye. Lloyd, Vaughan,
Churchyard, Pennant, and their followers, whose descriptions it is
pleasant to compare, and to see how Humphrey Lloyd and Robert
Vaughan stand forth pre-eminent as sound authorities in disputed
matters — are all equally enthusiastic, and seem to drop the anti-
quarian tone in alluding to the delicious scenery of the Clwyd.*
Even the midlands of Isaled are no longer mere bleak and marshy
tracts, supporting a diminutive race of cattle, and supplying only
abundance of peat for fuel. Ruthin displayed a similarly bleak, un-
cultivated character, nearly as far as the middle of the fonner
hundred ; while the Cantref of Yale, overlooking DyfFryn Clwyd,
equally abounds in high lands, so as to have led to the remark that
though it supplies a great number, it does not receive a single tribu-
tary rivulet. The western hills of Ruabon are still in part bleak
almost to savageness, and covered with heath and ling; they

* The author derived both advantage and pleasure, in his approach to this pleasant scene,
by referring to an unpretending and excellent little work by Mr. John Smith, the well-
known Lecturer on Education. It is the production of a man of enlightened views, and
will be found a delightful and interesting ' Guide to Bangor, Beaumaris, and Snowdonia.'
On the subject of the most recent improvements, especially a description of the Menai
Bridge, ami on other points, Mr. Smith's ' Guide' may be consulted with considerable
advantage by all tourists.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 77

afford excellent cover for grouse; the more subsiding and ver-
dant portions are stored with cattle, and the smaller tracts at
their base watered by pleasant streams. The fine, fertile valley of
Yale relieves the eye from the sombre effects of the dreary heaths
and desert moors. Bromfield — formerly called Welsh Maelor, to
distinguish it from the English Maelor, in Flintshire — is included
between the rivers Alun and Dee, and still preserves the like cha-
racteristics— a picturesque variety of wild sterility and abundance.
Its products are coal, lead, iron, and various useful materials for the
lapidist, whole mines and quarries of which, like those of slate and
the common metals, are in full work.

Chirk — the Gwayn of the old Welsh — is almost entirely moun-
tainous, Cader Ferwyn and y Syllattyn rising above the lesser hills,
and the river Ceiriog, with its valley, dividing the upper part in a
diagonal line. The rivers Rhaiader and Tanad mark the southern
boundary, and forai a junction midway on the line. From the
snow-clad heights of Snowdonia a sharp keen air, added to that
of the sea, diffuses salubrity, and the inhabitants, especially of
Dyffryn Clwyd, have a bright, cheerful look, a sound constitution,
rendered hardier by labours in the field ; and instances of extreme
longevity are not there remarked as extraordinary.

The leading rivers are the Clwyd, the Conway, and the Dee — the
two latter forming the extreme bounds of the county. It is thought
singular that it can boast not a single navigable river, a sea-port, or
even tolerable haven, while numerous rivulets, forming tributary
streams to these rivers, either flow from or traverse some parts of it.
The mountain-torrent of the Ceiriog dashes fonvard towards the
east till its confluence with the Dee near Chirk Castle. The Alun,
near Llandegla, takes its circuitous course through Flintshire round
the town of Mold, there turns to the southward through Hope-dale,
and, passing Gesford, re-enters the county and joins the Dee below
Holt. It has been described as taking a subterranean path, a cir-
cumstance alluded to by Churchyard in his rhymes — for his running
doggrel can scarcely be called poetry —

78 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

' The river runnes a myle righte under ground,
And where it springs the issue doth abound.'

This reminded the Wanderer of the anecdote related of Johnson,
who, when examining a similar natural curiosity at Ham, protested
his want of faith, when the gardener assured him that he had put
corks in a river at some miles distant from the spot where it was sub-
merged, and caught them where the waters re-issued from the earth.

From Abergeley, near which was once the princely seat of
Marchudd ap Cynan, cotemporary with the great Roderick, and
descended from one of the royal tribes which gave princes to the Bri-
tish Empire, — he now pursued his way by Hendrefawr and Boteg-
wall to Llan St. Sior. St. George, he here found, had his holy-well
no less than St. Winifred ; and here, in compliance with the super-
stitions of the country, the British Mars had his ancient sacrifice of
horses ; for the rich, we are told, were wont to offer him one to secure
his blessing on all the rest. Being truly the c/iemZ-rous saint, it was
customary to bring all such animals as were distempered to be healed
at his shrine ; and when sprinkled with water, the benediction on
them was ' the blessing of God and St. George be upon thee, good
steed !' Similar efficacy was attributed to St. /Elian, near Landrillo,
at whose well were dispensed many healing gifts, after he had re-
ceived proper invocations at the adjacent church. He possessed
also the police-genius of discovering the authors of thefts, and still
better, of restoring the stolen goods. On occasion of sudden quar-
rels, the offended party would imprecate on his neighbour the ven-
geance of the saint, bidding him ' to be gone with all the afflictions
in the power of good St. ^lian at his heels.' Mr. Pennant declares
that he was thus threatened by a fellow, who, to crown his maledic-
tion, added, that he would make a journey to this well to curse him
with more complete effect. But these, he happily found, with some
of the singular old religious observances, to be fast on the decline.
However occasionally perverted, many of them had their origin in
nol)le and beneficent feelings, were very generally diffused, and
though sometimes ludicrous, had often some good purpose in view.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 79

and fostered a hatred and contempt for what was vicious or mean.
At the name of the evil-one, for instance, in church, an old British
congregation expressed their opinion of that personage by a loud
and general spitting, the sound of which was meant to shew their
utter disgust ; and on hearing the name of Judas, they marked their
abhorrence by striking their breasts. Wherever there was a well
of our Lady, or of any saint, thither they resorted for the waters
of baptism ; over the coffin of their female relations, they placed
a number of white loaves in a great dish, and a cheese with pieces
,of money stuck in it for certain poor persons ; at every cross-way
between the house and church, they knelt and repeated the Lord's
prayer, again on entering the burial ground, and mostly sung
psalms during the procession. It was considered a pleasant omen
for the deceased if the rain fell while on their way, that his bier
might be wet with the dews of heaven. Like the Romans, they
were wont to strew the grave with flowers : —

' Manibus date lilia plenis.

Purpureos spargam flores.'

Bring fragrant flowers, the fairest lilies bring.
With all the purple beauties of the spring.*

On the eve of St. John the Baptist, they would decorate their door-
ways with sprigs of St.-John's-wort — to exorcise any bad spirits — in
imitation, perhaps, of the Druids who did the same with Vervaine,
which, in the Welsh, bears the significant title of ' the demon's aver-
sion.' The ardour and devotion shown in their religious exercises
upon Christmas-day were still more conspicuous, and our custom
of singing carols seems to have come to us from the more simple,
earnest piety of the Cambro-Britons. Theirs, too, was the popular
superstition, that the crowing of the cock, during the holy season,
had power to banish evil influence of many kinds ; a tradition of
which Shakspeare, who seems to have had a poetical eye for all
antique Welsh customs, has not neglected to avail himself: —

* Warton — Pennant : Tours in Wales, vol. iii. p. 160.

80 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

* Some say tliat ever 'gainst that season comes

Wherein our Saviour's hirth is celehrated,

The hird of dawning singeth all night long,' &c.

Kinniael Hall and Park, the seat of the Hollands, an old Eng-
lish family, who came into Wales in troublesome times, was the
next object of the traveller's attention. They were veiy unpopular,
it appears, and are said to have at last withdrawn, in dread of the
sufferings it was probable they would encounter in the civil dissen-
tions of the times. Pierce Holland, the eleventh in descent came
into possession of Kinmael by marriage; and we are told, that in
the wars of Charles and the Parliament, one of his descendants had
two daughters, one of whom married Colonel Carter, and brought
him the estate along with her. It was good humouredly observed by
a wit on the Parliamentary side, that he had made choice of ' the
best piece of Holland' in the countr)\ His descendant, half a
century afterwards, alienated the place to one of the Wynn family.

The sight of Foxhall brought to mind some recollections of the
Rosyndales, who settled in Wales in 1297, and soon after changed
their name to Lloyd. Near this ancient seat, according to Mr.
Pennant, there upstarted a new Foxhall, — a magnificent design by
Mr. Panton, Recorder of Denbigh, and member for the borough
in 1601. It was his ambition to eclipse the old Foxhall, but,
becoming bankrupt, he was compelled to sell his unfinished
labours, with his estate, to the very neighbour whom he had sought
to outvie.

Passing Llanerch and Ryffith Bridge, the Wanderer next ar-
arrived at Llewenny, where he recalled to mind the visit of Dr.
Johnson in company with Mrs. Thrale, when she came to take
possession escorted by the great Brewer, of ' at least five hundred
a-year.' The rough diary kept by the Doctor is very dull and
heavy, with but few gleams of vivacity, and less sterling merit
as a record of the intellectual leviathan of his age. It fills
up a chasm, indeed, of his life; but it is chiefly with rubbish,
scarcely worth the observation of his biographers. The strength

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 81

of his sententious moral sayings, in some instances, plead an
exception ; and the Wanderer was struck with his admirable reply
to Boswell, who foolishly remarked, that ' the proprietor of all
this must be happy.' ' Nay, Sir,' said his Mentor, ' all this
excludes but one evil — poverty ! ' Nor is the following less
characteristic. On observing a small copy of his Dictionary in a
library, he said, with eagerness, ' Look ye ! quae regio in terris
nostri non plena laboris?' At the side of it he saw Goldsmith's
Animated Nature, ' and here,' he added, ' is our friend ; the poor
Doctor would have been happy to hear of this.'

From Lleweny, where he stayed three weeks, Johnson made
short excursions into the neighbouring districts. He describes the
river Clwyd as ' a brook with a bridge of one arch, about one-third
of a mile :' and to Mrs. Thrale he wrote, ' Boswell wants to see
Wales ; but, except the woods of Bach y Graig, what is there in
Wales that can fill the hunger of ignorance, or quench the thirst of
curiosity ? ' On one occasion, a certain Welsh parson was so much
awed by the pompous manner in which the Doctor put his ques-
tions, that when asked by him if ' Heb' were a preposition or not,
he cried out very comically, ' So I humbly presume, Sir.'

After Johnson left Gwaenynog, the proprietor. Dr. Myddle-
ton, expressed an intention of erecting in his grounds an urn in
commemoration of his visit. When inforiTied that this honour was
meditated, Johnson seemed to dislike the idea, and observes in a
letter to Mrs. Thrale, ' Mr. Myddleton's erection of an urn looks
like an intention to bury me alive; and I would as willingly see
my friend-, however benevolent and hospitable, quietly inurned.
Let him think for the present of some more acceptable memorial.'
His description of places, particularly of Chirk Castle, is suffi-
ciently concise, — ' We came to Chirk Castle.'

Of the Myddletons, of Gwaenynog, there is extant a tradition
of a singularly tragical event. David Myddleton, it appears, pre-
ferred his suit to Elyn, daughter of Sir John Done, of Utkinton,
and gained the lady's affections. But her parents preferred their

M

82 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

relative, Richard Done, of Croton, to whom she was compelled to
ffive her haiul. The marriage was indeed solemnized fatally, and
at the hated husband's expence. The lover suddenly receiving
tidings of wiiat was passing, maddened at the idea of resigning her
who loved him to the anns of another, met his rival as he was lead-
ing his bride out of the church, and slew him on the spot. Then
carrving off the terrified ladv, he married her on the same day ;
insomuch, it is observed, that she was a maid, a widow, and wife
twice in one day. From Roger, the eldest son of this match,
descended the Myddletons of the present day.*

Lleweny is distinguished in early history for the Royal lineage of
its possessors, and the events and vicissitudes it witnessed. In the
hall was a portrait of the celebrated Catherine Tudor, — ^known
also by the name of Catherine of Beren, from her possessions in
the neighbourhood. She was heiress to Tudor ap Robert Fychan,
married Sir John Salisbury, heir of Lleweny, and, on his death,
gave her hand to Sir Richard Clough.

It is related that at the funeral she was led to church by Sir
Richard, and from church by Mr. Morris Wynn, who whispered
his wish of being her next choice ; an offer which she refused with
great civility, informing him that she had accepted the proposal
of Sir Richard on her way to church. To console him, however,
she added, that should she have to perform the same sad duty to
Sir Richard, Mr. Wynn might depend upon her. She was as good
as her word ; for the fair widow presently became the wife of Mr.
Wynn ; and after his decease married Edward Thelwell, of Plas y
Ward.f

Through the wild mountain region round Denbigh and Llan-
rhaiadr, Ruthin, and Llandegley, the Wanderer now approached
the loftier rugged tract of Maes Maylor and the Berwin Mountains.

* J'ennant, vol. ii. ]). 174.
f In Mr. Yorke's Royal Tribes there is an engraving of this lady, from the picture
alrpailv meutionetl.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 8.*i

On beholding Eliseg's Column, near Valle Crucis, he recalled to
mind that excellent antiquary and scholar, Robert Vaughan, ' the
first who in these later days could read the inscription, of which he
sent a copy to Archbishop Usher, taken before the Crotnwellians
threw it from its pedestal.' This column was raised as a memorial
of the dead ; a rude improvement on the ruder monuments of
Druidical times. It was covered with inscriptions, and raised on a
tumidiis, according to the custom of ancient times, 'when pillars
were placed under every green tree.' One of the inscriptions states,
that the pillar was raised by Eliseg in honour of his grandfather
of the same name ; an adjacent township is entitled Eglwyseg, and
the picturesque range of rocks, towering far above, bear the name
of Glisseg. The ancient residence of these princes was the Castle
of Dinas Bran, which commanded the vale from the most imposing
site.

The ruins of Llan Egwest, or the Abbey of Valle Crucis, next
met the Wanderer's view, at the foot of the mountains, watered by
a pleasant stream, and shaded with hanging woods.

This was a house of Cistercians, founded by Madoc, Lord of
Bromfleld, and grandson to the famous Owen Gwynedd, who acted
in concert with the great Llewellyn in 1215, when they captured a
number of English castles. He was interred in his o\vn monastery,
described as one of the last founded and first dissolved.*

From the drear and rugged summit on which stood Dinas Bran,
the Wanderer beheld an extensive prospect of vale, aiid stream,
and mountain-wild. Below him appeared Chirk Castle, Wynnstay,
Pont-y-Cyssyllte, — that remarkable structure with its noble archesf
— surrounded by villas, groves, hamlets, and hills.

* Owain, a poet of the fifteenth century, very highly commends the hospitahty of
the Abbots. Describing their style of life, he says, that their table was usually covered
with four courses of meat, served up in silver dishes, and sparkling claret was their
general beverage.

t As a work of magnificence and art, this splendid aqueduct is not surpassed by any
structure of the kind known in modern times. It imprcsises the beholder with adnii-

{:*4 WANDERINGS THROLGH NORTH WALES.

Tlie doepeaing shades of evening were closing in ere the Travel-
ler entered the \ ale of the Cross — the region of Llangollen ;
scenes amidst which the lovers of the picturesque, or the senti-
mental, may give free scope to their tastes and fancies. It is wholly
impossible to convey an idea of the varied beauties which lay
around. Encompassed by spots as rich in historic interest as in
their combination of natural loveliness and magnificence, from the
heart of this enchanting vallev the Wanderer could reach the famed
retreats of Owen Glendower, and explore its wildest outlets to their
termination beyond the great Llyntiged. To his left lay Trevor,
Wynnstay, and Ruabon ; before him, the vale and noble aqueduct
of Pont-y-Cyssyllte. Crossing the mountain, he could re-enter the
romantic scenery of Bala, on his way to the loftier beauties of
Snowdonia, or he could take the route of Wrexham, so full of
milder, yet ever varying objects of attraction.

Llangollen, the vale of the Dee, is bounded by chains of noble
hills, the bolder features of which are softened by gentle rising
knolls and swelling eminences, following the irregular direction of
the river. Relieved by sudden breaks and openings, the scene

ration of the extent of human power and skill, directed by the light of science, and
executed by the combination of human energies and wealth. It is situated about four
miles from Llangollen, extends nine hundred and eighty-eight feet, consists of nineteen
arches, each forty-five in the span, without including six inches of iron-work in con-
tinuation at each end. The supporting jners arc of a stone resembling Portland, pyra-
midal, and measuring at the base twenty-one feet by ten wide. The height is one
hundred and sixteen feet, and over this spacious arcade extends a large open caisson,
made of cast iron, eleven feet eight inches broad, by which the water is conveyed
over the river Dee, one thousand and nine feet, to the opposite level. The effect of
the whole upon the eye is peculiarly striking. Two iron plates are screwed together
from centre to centre of each arch, and along one side of the canal is a towing-path,
four feet in breadth, with a handsome iron balustrade as a defence.

The lime-works in the vicinity are numerous and extensive. The material is cal-
cined on the spot, and rendered fit for immediate use. By means of the Ellesmere
canal, the proprietors are enabled to 8upi)ly the adjacent counties ; also Liverpool,
Chester, and other towns. The noble bridge, likewise, erected previous to the year
1357, by a Bishop of St. Asaph, is entitled (o be classed among the proudest orna-
tniMils of Wai(.«.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 85

offers one continued variety of landscape, and, from the elevated
terraced-road, new and extensive views of the surrounding district
burst upon the eye. Rich spreading meadows and deep verdant
woods skirt the bases of the hills, contrasting with the purple hues
of their summits, and, refreshed by the windings of the silver
Dee, are seen under every change that can delight the eye.
Genius of wild Llangollen ! once again
I turn to thy rude haunts and savage reign ;
Mid the grey cliffs that o'er yon height impend,
O'ershadowing mountains that the vale defend ;
Woods, whose free growth the gloom of midnight spreads,
And torrents foaming down their flinty beds ;
Within thy sheltered solitudes confined,
At distance from the murmurs of mankind,
I sooth to peace the cares of life awhile,
And woo lone nature's long-forgotten smile.*
No less abounding in pleasing associations than in romantic
beauty, every spot awakened some reminiscence of former rambles
and past events. Plas Newydd appeared drest in the same simple
charm and grace of nature. What were the real motives of its once
young and beautiful inmates, in their early separation from the
world ? Was it eccentricity or romance that led two noble-minded
women, in the bloom of youth, to seek the quiet shades of Llan-
gollen ? No ! the Traveller perfectly agreed with Madame de
Genlis, in her estimate of their real views — the virtuous happiness
to be realized in shunning the follies and wretched dissipations of a
crowded city. It was found, by pleasant experience, a choice per-
fectly consonant with sound reason, elegance, and good taste. To
such as can appreciate the pursuits of cultivated minds, it is evident
there could have been nothing of a conventual character in such a
choice, and the wonder of a day, the repeated worn-out jest of
female romance and singularity, was soon forgotten in the kindly

* Llangollen, a poem.

86 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

interchaufre of all the courtesies and charities of life, — charities not
exclusively confined to an aristocratic sphere. The neatness and
beautv of the surrounding cottages, and of the whole spot, more
interesting, perhaps, from its limited scale, seem still to render
homage to quiet virtue, as well as to the presiding mind of elegance
and true taste.

Upon their first flight to Llangollen, we are told, the guardians
of the young fugitives traced their steps, and brought them back to
Dublin, for they were allied to some noble Irish families. The
moment, however, they reached their majority, they quitted Ire-
land, and returned to their favourite mountains. Lady Eleanor
Butler, having a considerable fortune, bought the grounds round
the mountain, and built a plain house, yet sufficiently spacious, and
elegantly decorated. Some meadows, gardens, an excellent library
and drawing-room, adorned with productions of Miss Ponsonby's
pencil, noble prospects from almost every window, completed the
charm of refined life and manners, and gave a fresh zest to their
peaceful retreat. Often they would leave the key in the door of
their residence during absence, although they had a considerable
quantity of plate and other valuable articles in their possession.*

Llandysilio Hall, one of the handsomest structures in the vici-
nity, is situated on the banks of the river, where it assumes its
wildest and most picturesque character. Mountains clothed with
verdure, a small valley winding between gently swelling hills, with
a tract of fertile corn and grass land in the foreground, afford a
varied and very pleasing view :

' And through the birchen shades
That sweep o'er Llandysilio's sheltered glades,
Seek the deserted fane, when day-light smiles
Through the rent roof and dim discovered aisles.'

* Strange as this may sound to our ears, Madame de Genlis has not much exagge-
rated the truth. No where may you travel and repose with more perfect security
than in Wales. Lady Butler died on the second of June, 1829, and her loss was se-
verely felt by the surrounding poor.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 87

Not far from Llangollen, to the north of the Dee, upon the
declivity of a thickly wooded hill, stands Brynkinalt. The man-
sion was erected by the Trevors,* and fell by marriage to the
Hill family, who now bear the title of Dungannon.

The massy bulwark of hills, once crowned with the dark towering
Castle of Dinas Bran, must have formed one of the most magni-
ficent features in the whole landscape: the Bran, a small mountain-
stream, stealing its devious way, still heightens the wild pictu-
resque character of the scene. By whom, or at what period, the
castle was founded is unknown ; during centuries it was in pos-
session of the Lords of Yale. In the reign of Henry HL it was
the retreat of Gryffyd ap Madog, who flew thither to shield him-
self from the vengeance of his injured countrymen.f The fate
of his sons, murdered in cold blood by their guardians, two
English lords, is still a current tradition of the country', mingled
with its favourite superstition of fairy-land.

* Dinas ! more beauteous thus in late decay,

Thy castle clothed with pensive colours grey ;

Bleak mountain! yet more beauteous thus thy head, —

Untraced but by the stranger's lonely tread, —

Than in thy gorgeous day, when tyrant power

With trophies hung thy far resplendent tower.

The British bard, at thy unhonour'd name,

Points to the wreck, a monument of shame !

So fall the towers, by vengeful time defaced,

That stood when rebel arms their strength debased ;

Moulder the walls that hid the traitor's head,

When freedom to the field her Britons led.

Wretch that expired'st within yon rocky mound,

By solitude and terror circled round,

* Tbe old lawyer, Sir John, had a very disagreeable cast in his eye, which led the
wits to say, on detection of his criminal conduct, that ' Justice was blind, but Bribery
only squinted.'

t It was also one of the strong-holds of Glendower, in his daring wars with the
English.

88 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

Vain was thy hope on Edward that reposed,

Vain the last wish thy dying breath that closed:

Yet ere the requiem bade thee peaceful rest,

Scarce cold the lip that uttered the request,

A stranger's hand usurped thy ancient power,

A stranger's banner glittered on thy tower.

Lo ! the defenders grateful Edward gave

To sooth thy spirit hovering o'er thy grave.

Stern avarice and murder stalk around.

Sole guardians thy forsaken infants found ;

No parent on their death-bed drops the tear.

No parent strews with flowers their honoured bier ;

But the rude hinds their fate obscure bewail,

Traced in the strange traditionary tale ;

And village girls point weeping to the wave.

Where fairies floated o'er their watery grave.'
The grounds of Wynnstay, richly wooded, extend to the village
of Ruabon, and present many striking and picturesque views ; —
the wild and varied scenery of the Berwyn Mountains, with the
vast chasm yawning through their sides, formed by the action of the
Dee ; the magnificent view of the river from Nant y Bell, rolling
through the fearful clefts and falls, fringed wnth w^ood, till it
terminates in a black and silent pool. Higher to the north rises
the mountain, with its stern, sombre ruins fast commingling with
its massy heights.

The mansion of Wynnstay, partly a modern edifice, situated in
an extenive park well-stocked with deer, was erected at different
periods. The more ancient part, mentioned by Mr. Pennant,
consisted of a gateway dated 1616. On a tower within the court
was inscribed the distich in allusion to the name of the house
— W}Tinstay; or, rest satisfied with the good things Providence
has so liberally bestowed on you :

' Cui domus est victusque decens, eui patria dulcis,

Sunt satis haec vitae, caetera cura, labor.'

Struxit Johannes Wynn miles et Baronettus. — Anno 1706.

I

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 89

In the surrounding grounds, enriched with plantations, appears a
noble obelisk, raised to the memory of the present Sir Watkin's
father. The height is one hundred and one feet, at the base six-
teen, the summit nine, and it is built with freestone and fluted.
A gallery runs round the top, with a bronze urn, elegantly designed,
in the centre. Round the base are wreaths of oak in the beaks of
four eagles, also cast in bronze. The famous Offa's Dyke runs
through the park, and near it, midst the fine romantic dingle of
Nant y Bele, winds the river Dee.

Chirk Castle, on the line of OfFa's Dyke, about three miles from
Wynnstay, is of ancient date. It is supposed to have been erected
in the time of Edward I., on the site of a fortress called Castell
Crogen, by Mortimer, Lord of Chirk and Nanfendwy. Leland has
described the place as it appeared in his time — ' there is on a small
hille a mighty large and strong castell with dyvers towers, of late
well repeyred by Syr Wylliam Standeley, the yerle of Darby's
brother.'*

The castle is square and massy; the dimensions are spacious; the
old gateway opens into a vast area, and the eastern side appears
decorated with a handsome colonnaded piazza. Its once noble
owner. Sir Thomas Myddleton, a brave champion of the Parlia-
ment, is drawn clad in complete armour, standing conspicuous
among several portraits which adorn the walls.

The situation possessed all the advantages of strength and eleva-
tion requisite for a military fortress, and it consequently has a
heavy, gloomy air, but commands a view over several counties
and the surrounding beauties of the vale. It was famed in the
desperate struggles of the Welsh to recover their independence,
and, in 1164, one of the most sanguinary battles on record was
fought here. Henry and his best generals were worsted, and
the English slain were interred in Offa's Dyke. The King had

* Executed, for his trimming policy, by Henry VII. whose successor granted it, together
with Holt, to his illegitimate son, Henry Fitzroy, Duke of Richmond and Somerset.

N

90 WANDERINGS THltOUGH NORTH WALES.

recourse to the dastardly vengeance of putting out the eyes and in
otlier ways torturing the noblest of his unhappy hostages.

Not a few amusing anecdotes are found connected with the
neighbouring families of the Wynns and the Trevors, both of which
are descended from Gryffydd ap Cynan, Prince of North Wales. By
him it was first enacted that no one should follow the profession of
a bard but who was admitted by the Eisteddfodd, or congress, held
once in three years. He also prohibited them from invading each
others province ; nor w^ere they permitted to degrade themselves
by following any less dignified occupation.

Gryffydd was succeeded by his son Owen, whose exploits were
the theme of rival bards ; —

' Fairest flower of Roderic's stem,
Gwyneth's shield, and Britain's gem.'
This great leader died 1169, and was interred at Bangor. When
Archbishop Baldwyn, on coming to preach the crusade against the
Saracens, saw his tomb, he commanded the bishop to remove the
body out of the cathedral, because the holy Becket had excommuni-
cated him for intermarrying with his cousin. The bishop, in obe-
dience to the charge, made a passage from the vault through the
south wall under ground, and boring like a mole, conveniently
shoved the body through it into the churchyard.*

Sir John Wynn, already mentioned, was succeeded by his son
Richard, who attended Prince Charles and Buckingham in their
ridiculous matrimonial excursion into Spain, and who left an
amusing account of his journey.f In one of his letters he says,
' We may think ourselves happy that have every thing in Wales ;
for both the kingdoms of Castile and Arragon are not worth one
of our worst counties.' He built the fine chapel at Llanrwst, from
a design of Inigo Jones; but the roof was taken from the neigh-
bouring abbey at Maenan.

♦ Yorke's Royal Tribes.— Hengwrt MSS.
Yorke's Royal Tribe*.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 91

Another, named Sir John, it appears was a gay character in his
youth. In the eve of life he made a visit to the Court of Queen
Anne. Here he met, after many years absence, his old school-
fellow, the apostolic Beveridge, of St. Asaph. 'Ah, Sir John,'
said the bishop, recognising him, ' when I knew you first the Devil
was very great with you.' ' Yes, my Lord, and I wish I could say
he was half so great with me now,' replied Sir John.

There is one more amusing trait respecting a Mr. Wynn, who
was member for Caernarvonshire, and was famed in the annals
of hospitality for his plentiful long tables. It happened that
his old acquaintance. Bishop Sherlock, was on a visit with him, and
observing, while at dinner, to the curate, that he was surprised he
had given them no sennon that morning, ' Ah ! my Lord,' said
poor Ellis, in his broad, simple manner, ' had I prached when Master
Wynne is in church, I shall have nothing but small-beer; but when
I do not prach when Master is in church, I may have my belly-full
of good ale, and welcome !'

From the same princely stock sprung the Lloyds of Rhiwardog,
and one or two laughable anecdotes are related of their worthy kins-
man, Roderic. He was related to the great chancery-lawyer Tre-
vor, who, among his other qualities, was a great lover of economy.
He had dined by himself one day, at the Rolls, and was drinking
his wine, when his cousin Roderic was unexpectedly introduced by
a side door. ' You rascal !' exclaimed Trevor to the servant, ' have
you brought my cousin, Roderic Lloyd, Prothonotary of North
Wales, Marshal to Baron Price, and a hundred grand things,
up my back stairs ? Take him instantly down my back stairs, and
bring him up my front stairs.' In vain Roderic remonstrated; and
while he was being conveyed down the back and up the front, his
Honour removed the bottle and glasses. Still, it seems, he could not
keep Roderic sober, if we may believe another adventure that befel
him. As he was returning rather elevated from the club one night,
he ran against the pump in Chancery-lane ; and, conceiving that
some one had suddenly struck him, he drew, and made a lounge at

0*2 WANDERINGS THROUGH NOUTIl WALES.

the pump. Aiming a direct thrust, his sword entered the spout,
and the pump, being somewhat crazy with age, fell down. Conclud-
ing that he had killed his man, Roderic left the sword sticking,
as he thought, in the man's back-bone, and hastily retreated to
his Honour's house at the Rolls, where he lay concealed for the
night. In the morning, after hearing the story, and ascertaining
the extent of the misfortune, his Honour came himself to relieve
Roderic from his durance, not without some dry strictures on the
danger of duelling by night.

CHAPTER VIL*

OWEN GLENDOWER, &C.

Refulgent in thy golden bower.
As morning in her eastern tower ;
Thy name the echoing valleys round —
Thy name a thousand hills resound.

Howel ap Einion.

The principal charm of Welsh scenery lies in its continual
variety, its varied aspects, and novel effects. For this reason,
perhaps, few people have visited Wales only once ; and no one
with the eye of a painter, or one feeling of the genuine traveller,
studies its characteristics without deriving pleasure from that
singular change of tone, — that succession of colours, lights, and
forms, which, investing the grandest no less than the minutest
objects, paints mountain, vale, and stream, like the flower, the
lichen, and the rock, in a thousand dark or brilliant evanescent
hues. It is this distinctive feature, doubtless, (admitted by
travellers from every land who have traversed the Snowdon hills,)

* In now dismissing the name of the ' Wanderer,' who, it was observed by a high
critical authority, had cruelly put the Author's I (eye) out, the latter wishes it to be
understood, that notwithstanding such an occurrence naturally produced no very plea-
sant feeling on one side, he is not actuated by any motives of revenge. He has, in
fact, most excellent precedents for treating the Wanderer in any manner which he
may deem most expedient. Addison assigns as a good reason for killing off that
amusing old gentleman, Sir Roger de Coverley, that he did it to prevent any
less privileged person from murderbig him; Shakspeare put to death his pleasantest
characters without remorse ; and Lord Byron was more than suspected of having
thrown Childe Harold overboard in some part of the Ega-ian Sea. But the Author,
less desperate in his remedy, merely persuaded the Wanderer to take a sail with him
as far as the South-Stack Light House, Holyhead, where they dined; but, unfor-
tunately, owing to some blunder of the Irish Sea, on their return the Wanderer lost
his balance, and was seen no more.

94 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

which more irresistibly recommends it to Elnglish taste and ima-
gination, inducing us to seek again and again the ever fresh and
delightful scenes which assume, in their rapidly-passing phases,
so many features to interest all those who are fond of change.

Thus, often as I had beheld the lovely region around Llan-
gollen, it now exhibited itself arrayed in bolder lights and shadows,
as novel as they were surprising. The autumnal morning rose
brilliantly clear, displaying the surrounding scenery under the
fairest and warmest colours, — the softest touches of the season
scarcely yet variegating the rich green tints of the summer foliage.

The sky was cloudless, and the air serene ; yet a few hours
produced a change, almost instantaneously affording a scene, on
entering the valley, as singular as it was wild and impressive. It
strikingly contrasted with the appearances I had just before
remarked : the sky grew dark and lowering ; the deepening mists
came sweeping on both sides from the Berwyn and the Brynelys
heights, stretching above and before us, and all the milder features
of the landscape, undefined and lost in the dim obscure, conveyed
an impression of vastness and extent — embracing hill, and stream,
and valley — which bore more of the character of wild Alpine
scenery than any I had witnessed in my former rambles. Up
the distant windings of the vale, and along the sides of the Den-
bigh hills, the thin rack and clouds came driving before the wind,
and the continually changing aspect now veiled now gave to
view fresh breaks of prospect, under a succession of the boldest
hues and forms.

To behold the valley in its gloomier lights and shadows, I
rapidly ascended the lofty sides of Dinas Bran, where the storm
seemed brooding at my feet, while the magnificence of the more
distant scenes lay still fully revealed to the eye. The low, distant
roll of the thunder, the big uncertain drops of rain, and the driving
mists, portended the gathering tempest; yet soon, to my surprise,
the black shadows which rested on the hill-sides, as if endued with
living power, began to rise and disperse, sailing away under the heavy

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 95

clouds, and threatening rain following the lighter rack and mists,
which, rapidly as they had first obscured the morning skies, fled be-
fore the freshening breeze. The sun broke forth, streaking the
fleeting clouds in a variety of splendid hues, — the mutterings of the
tempest died away, and thick volumes of mist bore down the valley
far away, till the prospect behind — Chirk, Wynnstay, and Ruabon
— appeared like that of some dim, immeasurable sea.

As from the summit of Dinas Bran I eagerly beheld a succes-
sion of the wildest, the sternest, and the most lovely landscapes
spread below me, I recalled the no less strange and varied fortunes
of that lordly castle, now a heap of ruins beneath my feet. Here
the pride of feudal chivalry had frowned defiance ; and the light of
high-born beauty had rained love and inspiration from her moon-lit
bower upon the breast of her poet and lover, — the fanciful and
impassioned Howel.* How much more interesting on such a
spot seemed the following mournful lines, and the wild, ardent
strain of eulogy on the bright-eyed heiress of Dinas Bran : —

' Far from Myfanwy's marble towers,

I pass my solitary hours.

0 thou that shinest like the sky,

Behold the faithful Howel die !

In golden verse, in flowery lays,

Sweetly I sing Myfanwy's praise.

What though thine eyes, as black as sloes,

Vie with the arches of thy brows ;

Must thy desponding lover die,

Slain by the glances of that eye ?

Pensive as Tristan did I speed

To Bran upon a stately steed,

E'en at a distance to behold

Her these fond arms would fain enfold; —

• Howel ap Einion Lygliw is known to have flourished about the year 1390, and
became passionately attached to the beautiful heiress of Castle Dinas Bran. Her name
was JNIyfanwy Fechan, and he addressed to her some exquisitely touching verses, which
deplore the inseparable barrier which rank and pride had placed between the lovers.

96 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

Yes, swift on Alban steed I flew —

Thy dazzling charms more near to view ; —

Though hard the steep ascent to gain,

Tliy smiles were harder to obtain !

O fairer thou, and colder too,

Than new fall'n snow on Aren's* brow !

O lovely flower of Trevor's race,

Let not a cruel heart disgrace

The beauties of that heavenly face !

Thou canst not with ungentle eye

Behold thy faithful Howel die!'

In that sort of day-dream in which the mind will at times
delight, fancy pictured the grand castellated pile, its towers and
marble halls, as they rose above all the scene in the day of their
pride and strength. Nor was that princely beauty's secret bower,
her rich-robed form, and soul-lit features, — nor a dark, but ani-
mated figure seen gliding by, and mingled voices with the harp's
deep, sad tones, — absent from my thoughts, as the visions of other
times rose in vivid colours before my view.

The blue mists had faded from the stream of the Dee, — the
shadows fell on the deeper recesses of the hills ; and, as I turned
my steps towards Corwen, the Vale of Glyndwrdwy opened on my
view, enriched with villas, hamlets, and all that interchange of ob-
jects which gives to these pleasant valleys their crowning charm.
The peculiar aspect of the day brought the words of one of our
favourite poetsf to my lips — words which gave an echo to my
inmost thoughts: —

' When rising slow from Deva's wizard stream,
The blue mists, borne on the autumnal gale,
Cloud the deep windings of Llangollen's vale,
And the high cliff glows with day's latest gleam ;

A mountain, or rather two lofty mountains, in Merionethshire.

t Sotheby.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 97

Dinas, while on thy brow, in pensive dream
Reclined, no sounds of earth my ear assail,
I bid the ancient chiefs of Britain hail,

Spirits who oft, beneath the night's wan beam,
Strike the bossed shield, or blow the martial horn, —
Or mournful, on the castle's wreck forlorn,
Sigh to the sorrows of the druid's lyre ;
0 let me join the visionary choir.
That I may hear the tales of former times,
And drink with ear devout the bard's historic rhymes!'
Not far from the spot on which I stood, the Lord of Bromfield,
at the head of the men of Chirk, as already shown, humbled the
pride of the Second Henry, who owed his life only to the intrepid
devotion of his faithful Hubert, who received the arrow aimed at
his master's bosom. The Pass of the Graves on Offa's Dyke
marks the spot of that sanguinary conflict up to the present day.

Proceeding next along part of the valley — once the patrimony of
the redoubted Owen Glendower — I sought in vain for a vestige of
his mansion whose daring adventures and strange escapes by flood
and field conferred on him the reputation of a magician, in addition
to that of a skilful chief. For to conjure up ' spirits from the vasty
deep' was deemed an exploit scarcely more wonderful than to resist,
during fifteen years, the efforts of an English monarch remarkable
for his good fortune, and supported by a chivalrous nobility and a
martial people.

The disasters which invariably attended the expeditions of Henry
the Fourth against the Welsh present a very remarkable feature in
the history of the times, and, interpreted by popular superstition,
were held a proof of the magic genius of the terrible Owen, and not
less in the light of a just retribution on the usurping monarch, who
had steeped his hands in kindred blood. The elements themselves,
it was believed, conspired against the murderer of the weak, un-
happy Richard, the friend and benefactor of Glendower, whose
devotion to his master, and whose singular good fortune, excited
the most ardent enthusiasm, not unmingled with awe, in the minds

o

98 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

of tlio Welsh. He alone foiled the power of the wary and
martial Henry, wiu), resistless before every other foe, had quelled
the pride of the most powerful nobles by whom he had been seated
on the throne, and trampled even the laurels of the heroic Percies
in the dust.

No higher honour could be awarded to Glendower than that he
had repelled such an invader, — that the genius and power requisite
for such a task were supposed to partake of a supernatural character,
and place him above the roll of common men. Repeatedly at the
head of England's choicest armies, Heniy was compelled to retreat
before a handful of Welshmen, headed by one previously unused to
a military life. Glendower, like many of the Welsh gentry, was
quietly studying law, when it was notified to him that Henry had
granted a large portion of his paternal estate to Lord Grey of
Rhuthin, who had, with that view, been undermining him in the
King's favour by every species of falsehood. Owen fled to arms —
a descendant of the Princes of Powys was ' not to he so treated' He
took Lord Grey prisoner after a set battle on the banks of Evyrnwy,
and, before he granted his ransom for a thousand crowns to the
King, compelled his lordship to marry his daughter; after which he
carried on the war with England during nine years.

W^hen skill and valour failed before its veteran hosts, Owen
seemed still to triumph in the terrors of those repeated storms and
floods which broke the strength of the foe. Fire and famine,
sharper than the swords of the enemy, pursued them, like some
avenging fiend, till their scattered legions were supposed to have
repassed those magic limits which had brought such a ' fearful
pother of the heavens' upon their heads. Though at times reduced
to take shelter in caves and fastnesses, known only to themselves,
the necromantic tactics of Owen were even then conceived to be
busily manoeuvering how to bring down fresh dismay and destruc-
tion upon the enemy. It was then he summoned his grand reserve,
and charged, as it is quaintly expressed, at the head of his favourite
company of the elements, which raised so tremendous a commotion

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 99

(as they did at his birth) that Henry and the English began to
think they had got before the time into winter quarters. The
dreadful signals of a new and more terrific onset fell on the startled
ear of the murderer, — (for what usurper is not a murderer?) — he
saw the black speck in the far horizon, dark as that upon his soul, —
he watched the gathering of the storm upon the distant hills, — the
blackening shadows which invested all-smiling nature in the hues
of the grave, and heard the deep, low mutterings of its voice, as it
rose with the sobbing of the mountain wind and the shrill whistling
of the groaning woods. The old towering fastnesses opened the
floodgates of their secret springs, when the din of the resounding
cataracts, as the tempest grew into resistless might, must have come
like the rushing of some demon's wings, fated to scatter and destroy.
Hardened as he was, he must have felt the prevailing superstition
of the people, — felt that there was more than accident in those
awful visitations which dispersed his hosts like leaves before the
autumnal blast.

Well, indeed, might the exploits of the once quiet law-student
equal those of the most dreaded of guerilla chieftains — making
England ring from end to end. Yet he was amiable and beloved
in time of peace, affording a striking instance of that madness and
desperation to which injury and oppression will drive the noblest
minds. Often, during the intervals of the sanguinary war, he
' Loud, like a maniac, to the mountain gale,
Told of his country's wrongs the harrowing tale!'
And he left but too many memorials of his revenge to prove that
' oppression driveth a wise man mad.'

Pleasanter thoughts, however, soon engaged my mind as I
bent my steps through the lands of the veteran chieftain to Llan-
saintffraid; and from thence by the meanders of the sportive
Dee to Corwen.

CHAPTER VIII.

DOLWYDOXLAN CASTLE, BETXWS Y COED, KHAIADR Y WENOL, &C.

The morning air

Plays on my cheek how gently, flinging round
A silvery gleam ; and now the purple mists
Rise like a curtain; now the sun looks out.
Filling, o'erflowing with his glorious light,
This noble amphitheatre of hills.

Rogers's Italy.

The following morning was beautifully calm and fine ; the air,
after the passing storm and rain of the previous night, was deli-
ciously cool and refreshing.

At the entrance of a house in Corwen, I heard the strains of
a harp, superior, I thought, in point of execution, nor was I
deceived ; a number of persons, both natives and strangers, were
listening round, not to an aged harper, but to a gentle looking
youth, with a remarkably animated and poetical countenance. On
expressing a wish to hear the old air of Morfa Rhuddlan, it was
played for me in the noblest and most touching manner. This fine
old lament still dwelling on the ear, I took my way to the antique
church of Corwen, and speculated, with a sort of melancholy
humour, upon the moral uses of the curious monuments, and that
antique stone column in the churchyard to the memory of the
great saint. The rocky cliffs of the Berwyn — once the strong-hold
of Owen Gwynedd — tower above the spot ; and there, from what
is termed his seat, the no less famed Glendower beheld nearly
forty square miles of his possessions, chiefly watered by the Dee.*

• At the seat of Colonel Vaughan is preserved, in an elegantly wrought case, a
curiously shaped dagger, with a knife and fork richly ornamented, and bearing the
arms of Glendower — a lion rampant with Ihrae Jlcurs-de-lis very highly engraved. The
dagger is seventeen inches long, and tapers off to the point.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 101

The route from Corwen to Pentre Voelas is perhaps the least
interesting in North Wales; though on the road, about mid-way,
the traveller is surprised and delighted by the picturesque scenery
around a romantic bridge called Pont y Glyn. The river rolls
over its rocky bed most preciptantly, and, passing through a deep
and richly wooded ravine, is afterwards observed quietly enriching
the vale below.

On my way to Cernioge, I turned off to visit the mountain of
Pengwerwyn, about a mile from Cerig y Druidion, where, tradition
says, Caractacus had a castle, in which he was betrayed by Queen
Cartismandua, and sent prisoner to Rome. Here he delivered his
well-known oration ; and his noble appearance and dignified con-
duct produced such an effect on Claudius, that he set him at
liberty.*

Walking some two or three miles over the moors, brought me to
the pleasantly situated inn at Cernioge, and having previously
heard of the excellence of this house of entertainment I resolved
to rest myself for a day or two; and truly the comfort and accom-
modations have not been exaggerated. This place has a decidedly
English appearance, for in the yard were four large ricks of hay,
(an extraordinary sight in Wales) extensive and well-built stabling,
and the arrivals and departures were frequent. There is a large

* In the writings of Tacitus will be found a detailed account of Caractacus. On being
placed before the tribunal at Rome, he delivered himself in the following manner: — ' If
to the nobility of my birth, and the splendour of exalted station, I had united the virtues
of moderation, Rome had beheld me, not in captivity, but a Royal visitor, and a friend.
The alliance of a prince descended from an illustrious line of ancestors ; a prince whose
sway extended over many nations, would not have been unworthy of your choice. A
reverse of fortune is now the lot of Caractacus. The event to you is glorious, and to me
humiliating. I had arms, and men, and horses ; I had wealth in abundance : can you
wonder that I was unwilling to lose them ? The ambition of Rome aspires to universal
dominion ; and must mankind, by consequence, stretch their necks to the yoke ? I stood
at bay for years : had I acted otherwise, where on your part had been the glory of con-
quest, and where on mine the honour of a brave resistance ? I am now in your power :
if you are bent on vengeance, execute your purpose ; the bloody scene will soon be over,
and the name of Caractacus will sink into oblivion. Preserve my life, and I shall be, to
late posterity, a monument of Roman clemency.'

102 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

pool in the neighbourhood, called Llyn Cwrt, well-stocked with
trout, eels, &c., which afford excellent sport to the angler. The
land about Cernioge Mawr is the highest between London and
Holyhead. The moors, abounding with grouse, present extensive
but unvaried and barren prospects.

Having passed over some sterile wastes, I reached the small
village of Yspytty Evan, and striking into Caernarvonshire, over
the river Conway, traversed the wild, lone districts near Hafod
Evan, and from thence among the mountains to the dreary and
sequestered lake of Conway. The changing mists and rack were
driving over the wild adjacent moors, and several birds, apparently
of the heron kind, rose from its surface, and slowly took wing
towards the falls of the river. Hence over Pont Penfedw I
entered the delightful valley, and soon the secluded little hamlet
of Penmachno, with its white cottages, verdant farms, and pretty
dwellings, scattered over the declivities, embosomed in the vale,
or the deep sheltered recesses of the hills. No lovelier scene had
yet greeted my eyes ; it had all that patriarchal appearance of
uninterrupted quiet and lonely beauty ascribed to the old pastoral
life. And such it almost was ; for here generation had followed
generation in the same calm tenour of existence, and in the same
unvarying pursuits. There was about it an air of serenity and
solitude I had hardly before dreamed of, although I had before
spent many days among the hills.

I had passed through scenes of the loveliest and the wildest cha^
racter, yet the falls of the Conway, the Machno, the wild vale of
Dolwyddelan — its heathy mountain and romantic pass, which lay
before me, — excited the imagination and pleased the eye in an
extraordinary degree. It was an hour well suited to the scene ;
over the dark, majestic mountain of Moel Siabod, and the dreary
heights about Tan y Foel and Bryncoch, a splendid sunset was now
closing, tinging vale and lake, as its last beams yet lingered on the
ruins of the lonely tower of Dolwyddelan ; from whose dilapidated
and shivered walls, and ivy-mantled wreck of former splendour,

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WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 103

I looked down upon the rocky vale below, and the romantic pass it
once commanded in the day of its power. Where the cattle now
peacefully sought shelter in its lone, deserted court, chivalry and
beauty once held sway ; those battlements, grey and worn, casting
their lengthening shadow upon the ruins fast mingling with the soil,
had rung with the din of war ; those tenantless halls re-echoed with
mirth and song, or strains addressed to the ear of love and beauty,
or the pride of some lordly chief. They, too, beheld from its walls
the same far-spreading prospect, full of the same bold, picturesque
beauties ; but with feelings how different to those it now awakens in
the lonely and thoughtful stranger's mind !

Rising from a bold projecting steep which overlooks the pass, in
a wild, rocky valley, watered by the Lleder, the Castle appears from
a distance embosomed in mountains, the crownless monarch of the
scene. Dating as far back as the year 500 — the work of one of the
early Welsh rulers — it subsequently became the residence of lor-
werth DrwyTidwn, the father of Llewellyn the Great, who was bom
at this strong-hold of the vale.

In dark and lawless times, the surrounding countiy became the
prey of ferocious feuds between rival families and clans. One of
these, descended from Owen GNA^nedd, was opposed to that of
Collwyn ap Tagno, and their wars presented a series of cruelties,
perfidy, and deadliest revenge. To such lengths did they carry
their animosity that Meredydd ap Jevan is stated to have purchased
the Castle as a place of defence, whither to retreat from the violence
of his OAvn relatives, — although the immediate vicinity was beset by
the most desperate factions, bands of outlaws and robbers. His
predecessor at Dolwyddelan, Hoel ap Evan, was a noted robber-
chief, yet Meredydd did not hesitate to take possession of his new
castle ; ' For I had rather,' he exclaimed, ' fight with outlaws and
thieves than with my own blood and kindred. If I continue in my
own house at Efionedd, I must either kill my own relations or be
killed by them.' These quarrels between the great families most
frequently ended in murder and assassination; and the valley of

104 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

Conway, which I traversed, witnessed the desperate deeds of
lordly and gentlemanly banditti, who, in those unhappy times,
made the people the sport and prey of their reckless conduct.

* They would quarrel,' according to Sir John Wynne, ' if it was
but for the mastery of the country, and the first good-morrow.
John Owen ap Meredydd and Howel ap Madoc Vychan fell out for
no other reason. Howel and his people fought valiantly : when he
fell, liis mother placed her hand upon his head to prevent the fatal
blow, and had half her hand and three of her fingers cut off by
some of her nearest kindred. An attempt was made to kill Howel
ap Rhys in his own house, by the sons of John ap Meredydd, for no
other reason than that their servants had quarrelled about a fishery.
They set fire to the mansion with great bundles of straw ; the
besieged, terrified with the flames, sheltered themselves under
forms and benches, while Rhys, the old hero, stood, sword in hand,
reproaching his men with cowardice, and telling them that he had
often seen a greater smoke in their hall on a Christmas evening.'

These flagitious deeds seldom met with any other punishment
than what resulted from private revenge, and too often composition
was made for the most horrible murders. There was a gwerth, or a
price of blood, from the slaughter of a king to the cutting off one of
his least subject's little fingers.*

How strange a contrast now appeared ! The flocks were care-
lessly feeding in the very heart of these bandit-haunts ; the grass-
hopper chirped, and the birds built under the shadow of the tower ;f
while the serene joy and quiet of a Sabbath evening seemed shed
on every object around. The weed covered its antique arched

* W'illiams'3 Caernarvon,
t The lower part of the tower, which yet remains, extends to forty feet by twenty-
five, and would appear to have consisted of three stories, and a court-yard running
between the two portions. The walls aro above six feet in thickness, and constructed
of the stone of the country. IMr. Pennant says that in his time there remained the
lower portion of two towers, measurements of which he gives. One only, and part
of a wall belonging to the second, now exist, although Evans, Nicholson, and most
recent Cambrian Tourists, repeat the statement of Pennant, and give his admeasure-
ment.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 105

windows, the ivy and the wild laurel sprung from its walls and loop-
holes, and the broken winding steps scarcely afforded footing by
which to ascend. Around me rose its lofty, barren boundaries of
hills, — including the vast, wide-stretching Siabod; the lone and
craggy valley, and the waters of the Lleder, lay at my feet.

The small sequestered hamlet of Dolwyddelan next met my eye.
Being the Sabbath, I met numbers of old and young in their
neat, quaint, and antique costume, — the faces of the young maidens
sparkling under their large round hats, and the children decked
out in the old-fashioned style.

Entering a cottage near the picturesque little church, I was sur-
prised to observe the singular appearance and costume of the occu-
pants, all attired exactly in the same manner, and engaged precisely
in the same occupation. They were three women, plainly but neatly
dressed, and in deep mourning. They had a strong resemblance
in feature and deportment, except that the eldest appeared to be
almost palsied with age, being upwards of a century ; upon further
inquiry I learnt that she was the great-grandmother of the party, —
indeed more, as her feeble foot rested upon an infant's cradle,
which she was rocking to and fro with an accompanying motion of
her body. Before her, on a table, lay a bible ; the next in age was
reading at another, and it was the same down to the youngest,
who did not appear to be very young. Not unacquainted with
prevailing custom, I stood at the threshold, but spoke not till I
should be invited. Almost awed by this strict religious silence, I
was at length retiring, for not a sign of welcome was seen, when
suddenly it came from the elder of the inmates, as she seemed to
catch my retiring step. The next to her arose and spoke the word,
at which I stept in. * I am faint and tired,' I observed, ' with my
long day's ramble among the hills, but I would not intrude ;' and
again I motioned to depart. ' Be seated,' was the reply. « Then
may I crave a drink of water?' 'No, never,' interrupted the most
aged of the women, ' our family never gave water to the stranger ;'
and her daughter, going into an inner room, returned bearing milk,

p

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lOG WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

lionoy, and oaten cake* With a heart-felt expression of thanks, I
quaffed tlie milk with a relish which no wine had ever afforded, and
the oat cake and honey appeard the most delicious fare. But these
strange women had resumed their seats with the same stern serious-
ness as before, and I felt an uneasy sensation for which I could
scarcely account. To my occasional observations or inquiries they
made the most brief and uninviting replies. In the idea that I might
touch some chord of human sympathy, I alluded to the sleeping
child, and observed to the younger of the women that ' the mother
of so fair a child must certainly be happy.' She fixed her eyes on
mine for a moment, with a look of mingled surprise and delight,
as she exclaimed, 'Oh, yes happy — surely happy, — strange that
you should thus have spoken the truth : but not happy with us !'
and she turned her face from me, and wept aloud. Catching her
sobs, the most aged of all for a moment stopped the swaying of the
cradle, put her hand to her head, and looked inquiringly around
her, as if to recall something to mind. She counted upon her fingers
the number of children present, looked down at the cradle, and
then, with a low cry and half-suppressed agitation, which seemed to
thrill through every fibre of her frame, and which had something
almost appalling, she rose and tottered out of the house. I saw, in
an instant, how I had inadvertently given pain, and expressed regret
for having so far intruded upon their sorrow.

The way to the Falls and the Lake of the Conway lay by a track
across the little churchyard over the hills. The evening was calm
and beautiful — not a sound disturbed the still serene. As I paused,
musing for a few moments, ere I entered once more the wild, mag-
nificent barrier of mountains, I observed that same bowed and
trembling figure of the aged woman standing, with her arms crossed
upon her bosom, by a new-made grave. According to the custom

* In another instance the party applied to rofusoi! to supply the writer with water,
yet had no other beverage but a small jjortion of buttermilk. With this they gave the
water a slight sprinkling, and presented it to him : to have offered remuneration
would have been an insult.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 107

of the country, it had been newly planted with laurel and with box,
and strewed over with flowers ; a large stone lay at the head and
another at the feet. The mystery of the women's manner was
now clear ; and this sight, together with the silence of the even-
ing, in the lone, wild valley of Dolwyddelan, left an impression
which was not effaced when I entered the valley and hamlet of
Penmachno.

From the heathy heights above a magnificent prospect, — second
only to those seen from Snowdon and Siabod, — extended itself on
every side, — the lofty brows of the far Glyder Hills, the towering
Carnedds of David and Llewellyn, and no less than seven districts,
embracing the most secluded portions of Caernarvon.

On reaching the foot of the heights above Penmachno, I heard
the voice of a Welsh preacher, addressing his congregation in a
strain of fluency and nervous eloquence which made the hills
resound. On turning to the spot, I saw a large chapel well filled
with Wesleyans. I was curious to study the physiognomy of so
large an assemblage of the mountaineers in the heart of these lonely
hills, and took my station at the door, — for there appeared not a
seat unoccupied, while the old church, at a small distance, was com-
paratively neglected ; but soon a grey-headed, venerable man came
forward, and invited me to walk in and be seated. I did so, and
was surprised to observe the number of well-dressed persons of
various ages, — offering a fine study to the painter, as well as to the
moralist, in the heads of the old men, the beautiful and noble
countenances of some of the young, and especially that of the
youthful preacher, — ardent and eloquent, even to the boldest
reaches of * his high argument.' He excited his hearers to the
keenest sense and apprehension of the great and wondrous truths
by which he appeared himself inspired. He struck the chords of
their inmost sympathies and sorrows with a master-hand ; while he
awed the hardened and impenitent by the most terrific appeals
which can shake the consciences of men. Their countenances bore
witness to the bold, successful style of his eloquence, which rung the

108 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

changes loud and skilfully upon the most opposite and the most ab-
sorbing passions of the mind : audible sighs were heard, and, when
he rose to some higher and almost extatic bursts of eloquent truth,
not even the oldest could restrain their emotions of awe, admiration,
and applause. At times they would exclaim to each other — ' Hear
him ! Hear him ! — it is God — it is Christ who makes him speak !*
nor did the young preacher himself appear less agitated, rapt, and
inspired.

Desire of information and curiosity led me to the spot ; but, on
coming forth into the depth and silence of the mighty hills, at the
foot of which lay the hamlet and the gentle gliding river, an invo-
luntary feeling of reverence for all creeds, — founded on guileless-
ness, sincerity, and love of truth, — and for all those who conscien-
tiously adhered to or differed from established doctrines, — gave
fresh impulse to my love of perfect religious and civil freedom,
without which pure religion cannot exist.

Down the wild, narrow valley, enclosed by the precipitous Bwlch
Carreg, which throws its broad black shadow on the pass, and across
the bleak, moory mountains beyond, I sought the source of the
noble river Conway, situated in a singularly lonely and picturesque
spot. The rocky, broken banks of the lake, — the still and dismal
moor, with the lofty position of this secluded fountain of the hills, —
its little islands, where the wild heath-fowl and the curlews haunted,
or were seen sailing aloof in the spreading gloom of the evening, —
had an unusually striking effect upon the mind. I marked that
little rill at its source which, in a few miles, fed by tributary brooks,
and uniting with the Machno and the Llugwy, swells into a broad,
beautiful river, giving fresh charms to the highly-romantic valleys
of Conway and Llanrwst. There is excellent sport for the angler in
each of these streams.*

* To those who visit the Principality, and are fond of the 'gentle craft,' the writer can
safely recommend an unpretending little work, l)y George Agar Hansard, called ' Trout
and Salmon Fishing in Wales.' It is, with great propriety, dedicated to Professor

WANDERINGS THUOUGH NORTH WALES. 109

Returning over the heathy and precipitous tracks, I bent my way
towards the falls of the Conway. Never had I beheld a more im-
pressive and startling sight, as I came suddenly through the dense
foliage upon the sparkling and foaming waters. Vast, solitary, and
terrifically beautiful, in the deepening shadows of an autumnal even-
ing,— the wild over-hanging precipices almost meeting across the
yawning chasm, from which is first seen the rushing fall of the
torrent, broken midway by huge jagged rocks, and bursting im-
petuously into separate cataracts, strongly contrasting with the
green woods towering over the summits, and the broad black
shadows of the rock resting on the waters below, — with the con-
tinued roar of the falls, produced a magnificent effect. As I stood
on an angle of the jutting cliff, midway in the descent, the wildly
picturesque and sublime scenery brought forcibly to mind the spot
so finely depicted by the bard, and I could not doubt that Gray
had contemplated the same scene, from nearly the same point of
view —

' On a rock, whose haughty brow
Frowns o'er old Conway's foaming flood,'
so exactly, at that hour, did the sublime features of the prospect
awake sentiments in unison with the boldly depicted sorrows of the
last of the ancient bards.

By Fford Helen I came to that remarkable spot called the Graves
of the men of Ardudwy, close to Rhyd yr Halen. In its circles of
large stones, it presents the appearance of an ancient Carnedd, and
it is believed to have derived its name from an adventure resem-
bling, in some degree, the rape of the Sabine women. Two chiefs
and their clans were at deadly strife, and sought only how to inflict
the deepest insult and contumely upon each other. The men of
Ardud^vy having been worsted, conceived the desperate project of

Wilson, 'one of the most accomplished fly-fishers in Great Britain ;' and contains full
accounts of the various kinds of fish — rules for fishing in Wales — on natural and artificial
flies — the best angling stations — and particulars of the various lakes, rivers, and streams.
There are some blunders in the orthography, which it is almost impossible to prevent.

110 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

carrying off the wives and (laughters of their rivals of Clwyd.
Takinir advantage of the absence of the latter, thev surrounded
and bore from their dwellings the ladies of the vale ; and, deaf to
tears and cries, succeeded in bearing them off to their own ter-
ritory, where they safely immured them in towers and strong-holds.
We may imagine the horror and rage of the warriors of the vale
on their return, — the fury and swiftness of the pursuit. The bow
of war was borne like lightning through glen, and vale, and hill ;
but in the first onset they encountered only the taunts and jeers
of the foe from the ramparts of their forts and castles. In vain,
instigated by revenge, they renewed the assault, till, finding open
force unavailing, they had recourse to stratagem. Smothering their
burning rage, they affected to be beaten off and return home ; but,
retracing their steps by a circuitous route, they formed an ambus-
cade close under the fortified positions of their enemies. Concluding
that they had fled discomfited, the men of Ardudwy proceeded
to celebrate their triumph, by compelling the captive maidens to
marry their relatives and dependents, and, still armed, they bore
them to the neighbouring church. It was on their return that the
men of Clwyd emerged from their hiding-place, threw themselves
between the foe and their homes, when a fierce conflict ensued.
In vain, like the Sabine women, did the virgins of the valley cast
themselves between the enraged combatants, — there was not an
instant's pause in the work of death : so fatal was the stab of revenge
that soon not a man of Ardudwy was left alive, and few and feeble
were the warriors of the vale. Distracted at the sight, and the loss
at once of their new lords and former relatives, a number of the
unhappy women rushed wildly down the cliff's into a lake below,
which from this tragic incident afterwards assumed the name of
Lyn y Morwynion, or the Maidens' Lake.

The distant view of Yspytty Evan suggested ideas of less savage
and revolting deeds in the days of chivalry. It was once a hospital
of St. John of Jerusalem, the asylum of the persecuted, of travel-
lers, the needy and the oppressed, under the guardianship of the old

^-

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WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. Ill

knights who held the manor. But soon, like the best-meant insti-
tutions, falling from its original uses and good purpose, became, on
the extinction of the order, the prolific source of the evils it was in-
tended to remedy.

Proceeding onward I passed over Pont Arleder, and along the
banks of the Conway till I reached the village of Bettws y Coed,
seated in a pleasing vale, surrounded by noble mountains, not far
from the confluence of the Llugwy and the Conway. The scenery
in this neighbourhood is much varied: in the course of 'a sum-
mer's day,' as Yorick says, the hardy pedestrian may view the most
charming points of Welsh scenery — her picturesque valleys and
majestic mountains — placid lakes and boisterous waterfalls — crum-
bling towers and castles, — and some extensive works of art.

The Church of Bettws y Coed contains an old monument in
memory of Gruffydd, the son of David Goch, who died in the
fourteenth century, and was a son of David, brother of Llewellyn,
the last Prince of Wales. There is yet the following mutilated
inscription : — ' Hie jacet Gruffydd ap Daxyd Goch, agnus Dei
miserere mei.'

Over the river Conway, about half a mile from the village,
is an elegant iron bridge, upwards of one hundred feet in span,
built by the distinguished engineer, Telford, named Waterloo
bridge, — having been erected the same year in which that cele-
brated battle occurred.

Just before the Llugwy joins its streams with the Conway, there
is a remarkable bridge called Pont y Pair,* thrown across the former

* A native tourist (Mr. Llwyd) has observed, somewhat humorously, ' on returning to
Bettws y Coed, we proceeded slowly to enjoy a continued view of the highest, grand-
est, and roughest mob of mountains anywhere to be seen ; wishing, as it were, to
crush Snowdon, which they surround. This view reminded me of the Bay of Biscay
in the rage of a tornado. Rosa would have brandished his pencil with extacy on
this scene.

• In its passage through this village the river Llugwy meets with such obstruction
amongst the rocks, that it becomes so shockingly infuriated in the conflict, as to have
the appearance of a boiling caldron, from which circumstance, the bridge over it takes
the name of Pont y Pair, the Caldron Bridge.'

11*J WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

river in several arches, strongly based upon the solid rocks. These
natural piers, high and precipitous, overhang the dashing waters
which break over the craggy ledges, on the points of which the bridge
is so boldly and curiously constructed. In the wintry or stormy
months, the meeting and conflict of this flood of waters displays
at once the most fearful and most fantastic images to the eye. The
falls and thunder of the torrents are truly awful; nor are the
extraordinary contrasts and combinations of the surrounding scenery
less in unison with the romantic character of the spot. The steep
indented cliffs, grey and worn, fantastically clothed with wood, and
the white dwellings dotting the hill-side, exhibit, blended into one,
the mingled charai of the terrific and the beautiful.

Near the Holyhead road — which presents so many diversified
views of rock and valley, deep woods, and mountain-torrents —
midway between Bettws y Coed and Capel Curig, I came to the ex-
traordinary cataract called, from its rapid flow, llhaiadr y Wenol, or
the Fall of the Swallow. It presents the irregular aspect of a hill
of rocks springing from the very bed of the river, which produces
all the effect of a bold break-water, giving redoubled force to the
stream which divides and foams down in wild and airy leaps till it
reaches its black and caverned bed. The contrast of its floods of
foam with its dark waters below, reflecting the gloomy shadow of
the towering cliffs, — the huge masses of projecting rock which
receive the tumbling stream, flinging it into a thousand varied
forms down a chasm of sixty feet, — the sombre woods which skirt
the ravine, here and there concealing the torrent, — the varied hues
of rock, and shrub, and moss, and spots of deep green verdure, give
an air of enchantment, as well as wildness and sublimity, to the
scene. Threading the recesses of the woods to the summit, I com-
manded a full view of the entire fall of the precipitous flood.

Before reaching Capel Curig, at a turn of the road, I beheld the
singularly picturesque and rural bridge over the Llugwy. The ri-
ver hurries its tide along its rugged channel on the left of the road
towards Holyhead. The aspect presents a remarkable union of

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WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 11.")

rude and shivered rocks, rushing waters, and hanging woods ;
beyond which the extensive base of Moel Siabod, and the distant
purple peaks of Snowdon, are distinctly seen. A few niituites
after, the vale and lakes of Capel Curig are observed in the
declivity, — in front nearly the whole of the Snowdon range, —
on the right the Glyder hills, and on the left Moel Siabod.

From a rudely constructed bridge over the rippling stream
immediately behind Capel Curig Inn, is a magnificent panoramic
view. The sublimity and grandeur of this scene is probably un-
equalled in Britain. Each object is on an extensive scale — the
mountains are bleak, yet varied and picturesque; and looking
over the lakes, the highest peak of Snowdon is distinctly seen
towering into the clouds in the extreme distance.

CHAPTER IX.

SNOWDONIA.

The rocky heights explore,

The Briton's last resource — his mountains hoar;
W^hcre weeping freedom from the contest fled,
And Cambria saw her dearest heroes dead.
Illustrious band! distinguished Arvon's boast!
'Twas yours to lead in Gwyncdd's warlike host, —
For you, while wisdom dwelt upon his tongue,
Your Taliesin's sweetest lyre was strung, —
For you, in jjcaceful shades and tented plain,
Flowed from his hallowed lips th' approving strain.

hlwyd.

Rising gradually and majestically from its rock-girt base, Snow-
don* embraces within its limits a distinct region of subject-hills,
valleys, and lakes, stretching across the country in one vast un-
broken chain from sea to sea. It was formerly considered, in
fact, to comprise within itself a little kingdom ; the Barons of
Snowdon were the most potent lords of the soil,f and the seig-

* A name derived from the Saxon — the snow-clad hill ; in the Welsh Eryri, from
Mijnijdd Knjrod, the liiil of eagles. Mr. Pennant, the best authority, seems to con-
sider it to have sprung from Creiguu V Enjra, or the eagles' crags ; but its most probable
derivation may be safely left to employ the industry and ingenuity of nativd antif|uarians,
distinguished for tiieir profound knowledge of the ancient Uritish language anil anti(iuities.

t These Barons of Snowdon were justly entitled to be considered as the Upper House,
and distinguished from the Commoners occupying the vales and low-lands. Accordingly,
we find they exorcised their privileges in a manner which a greatly-elevated position
generally prompts men to do, and with a cavalier spirit often more surprising than pleas-
ing to the lower houses of their neighbouring Commoners. It is singular, also, how
nearly their pp<'uliar feudal laws and usages are ff)und to ro^eiiilile those of the gri^at
Norman nobility, and the House of Lords of the present day.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 115

niory of its broad aiul bold domain was always the most severely
contested and the last resigned. Edward I. celebrated his final
triumph over the ill-fated Llewellyn in jousts and festivals upon
its plains ; he often made it his favourite summer residence ; it
was chosen as the congress of the native princes, and of the bardic
contests, — and palaces and hunting seats animated its wooded and
well-peopled eminences. Now, a comparatively barren wilderness
of heights spreads before the eye ; nakofl massy ridges still rear
their natural barrier against the skies ; but the military stations,
castles, and towers, which made them fonnidable, are seen no more.
Their ruins only serve to awaken melancholy recollections of de-
parted grandeur, — the sites of deserted halls, and bowers, and
palace-fortresses, reft of their sylvan beauties, amidst these calm
retreats and once lordly domains. Snowdon, like a vast mountain-
fortress, boasted its defensive moat in the two rivers which, extend-
ing to Conway and Traeth Mawr, fall into the sea, giving to
Anglesea that security, on the land-side, which pointed it out as the
natural seat of sovereignty.

Improved by art, this position required only a powerful navy to
have maintained the independence of the Britons from those fierce
marauding nations which attacked it incessantly. "^Fhe passes into
the country were defended by the strongholds of Deganwy on the
Conway, of Caerhun on the Pass of Bwlch y ddaufaen, — the Castles
of Aber and Dolwyddelan, — strong forts in Yale Frangon, in Nant-
peris, Cedwm in Nant Tall y Llyn, and the Castles of Harlech
and Criccaeth, on the open Pass of Traeth Mawr. There were
towers also at Casail Gyfarch, Dolbenmaen, besides military
posts and fortifications in the more exposed positions of the
country.

The Snowdonian range extends from the heights of Peinnaen
Mawr in a succession of lofty hills to the triple-headed Reifoll,
which borders upon the Bay of Caernarvon. Its highest peak
towers about three thousand six hundred feet above the ocean,
and it embraces a compass of forty mile* in length. The Carnedd,

lir» WANDERINGS THUOUGII NORTH WALES.

called Llewellyn, approaches next in height; Moel Siabod the third;
and, however inferior to the Alps — to the stupendous Andes — to the
Cordilleras — and the Himalaya of other hemispheres, these British
Alps partake sufficiently of the magnificent to impress the beholder
with feelings of awe and admiration. If not on the largest scale, they
can yet boast almost every variety of the noblest characteristics of
mountain scenery — even to the terrible. In their darker hour, when
the storm is up, — when the torrent pours its hoarser music with the
autumnal blasts, and the near voice of the thunder, and the deep
rolling masses of mist, convey the impression of some region seated
among the clouds, — no traveller of other lands will pronounce
Snowdon destitute of images at once fearfully beautiful and
sublime.

The same variety may be observed in the character and aspect
of the Snowdon rocks, in its minerals, and even plants, heaths, and
mosses. In one spot is observed nothing except purple heath,
in another reeds and rushes, and in the next the violet, the orchis,
or the daisy in solitary abundance, richly scenting the mountain air.

As regards its mineral properties, the higher portion of the
Snowdon chain is found to consist chiefly of porphyry and granite ;
the secondary rocks of horn-blende, schiller-spar, loadstone, whin-
stone, schistous, with combinations of quartz, feldspar, and argilla-
ceous schist in all their singular varieties.

On the western side rise basaltic columns, beds of hornstone or
chertz, and in the openings are observed those massy crystals,
cubic pyrites, and brilliant mineral veins which indicate the nature
of the substances beneath, and with their varied streaks present at
times a peculiarly bright and almost dazzling appearance, contrast-
ing with and relieving the surrounding dark or shadowy hues of
the neighbouring hills. Not unfrequently the lighter coloured
spars might be mistaken for drifts of new-fallen snow, or mountain
rills in the distance. The vicinity of copper is denoted by the rud-
dier hues of the surface, as in the red mountain ; the duller slate by
the schistous rocks ; and it was thus I marked the granitcl and

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 1 17

iiovaculite of Kirwan, and other mineral varieties, by their exter-
nal character.*

By these signs I was often assured of my vicinity to different
mines and quarries, with as much certainty as by the sound of the
blasting rock reverberating through the hills ; and, in a similar way,
those large silicious crystals, rock diamonds, and various speci-
mens washed down their ravines and collected by the people, have
directed inquiry towards their analagous substances, and fortunes
have been frequently realised by mere accident, or casual observ^a-
tion of treasures not previously conjectured to exist.

If the gloomy and barren aspect of the hills is thus relieved by
the variety of hues produced by their mineral formations, Snowdon
is no less rich in the number and beauty of its heaths and flowers,
affording a pleasant field for phytological research. Few regions
will be found to supply more curious and interesting specimens for
investigation to the adventurous botanist. In that beautiful tribe
of herbaceous plants, the Etheriae of Linnaeus — seeking the lof-
tiest habitats, and in numerous other genera, clothing with unex-
pected bloom and verdure the wildest spots, he may find a continual
source of unfailing pleasure about the region of the higher lakes
and hills. Not a few, indeed, are to be met with in no other district
of Britain, and, most probably, ere yet despoiled of his floral and
forest honours, Snowdon boasted more beautiful and varied, as well
as more numerous, specimens of the different tribes. We can pic-
ture to ourselves something of his proud baronial domain thus en-
riched and decorated, — the charm thus conferred on those many
picturesque localities which made Snowdon the beloved resort both
of its native princes and of its conquerors. Nobly as Wilson — in-
ferior only to Salvator — has depicted some of its wilder features, —
the stormy torrent — deserted ruin — the tempest amidst the hills

* Of the novaculite, especially, there are numerous varieties round the wild district
of Cwm Idwal, where a large quantity of hones are annually cut, and exported from
the nearest towns and sea-ports.

118 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

and lakes ; let us imagine it adorned with spreading groves — wide
and lovely gardens round palace and lady's bower — the lordly
castle towers frowning afar — the Hill of Council — the assemblies
of chiefs and bards — the gay hunters clad in green and gold, with
the then victorious last of the Llewellyns at their head, his favourite
hound bounding at his side, and the opening echoes among the
distant hills ; — or behold him presiding at some solemn festival,
surrounded by the chivalry of the land, in his magnificent castle
near Aber, while the same aged bard who sang his dirge was
then commemorating his early exploits.

And, now, disarrayed of his princely robes, — with the loss of his
dignity and sway, we behold Snowdon only in his deserted majesty,
— ' the crownless monarch of the scene !' and vainly we try to recall
the beauty and magnificence which surrounded him in the chival-
rous day of the Norman Conqueror, which ushered in the yet bolder
gi'andeur of those gigantic castles, the very ruins of which rivet and
appal the eye.

On the morning of my first ascent the weather became gloomy
and lowering, and I was disappointed in the expected splendours of
a sun-rise seen from Snowdon. But, contemplating more than one
expedition, I consoled myself with the hope of better fortune, and
resolved to take the chances of any change by remaining the entire
day upon the hills. I was aware of the capricious humours of the
mountain monarch, especially on the conspicuous peak which most
frequently he makes his ' throne of clouds,' when the rest of his sub-
ject-realm is perfectly bright and calm. How often I invoked the
morning breeze to scatter at once tlie dense haze which enveloped
me, and that which was as heavily obscuring the distant horizon !
And soon I had my wish ; a cool fresh breeze sprung up till it rose
almost into a tempest, scattering the thick rack on every side.

The guide whom I had engaged at Capel Curig was perfectly
ac(|uainted with the localities. While he highly extolled the genius
of the ' Father of Guides,' au aged man who lives at Bcddgelert,
and bowed with filial reverence to his remarks, he seemed to look

WANDERINGS TIIllOUGH NORTH WALES. 119

down upon the modern race of guides from an eminence little less
lofty than the conspicuous peak, and when I proposed the more
arduous ascent from Capel Curig over the great Glyder, he looked
on me with an air of astonishment. In a tone of increased
respect he lamented the effeminacy of tourists, and that eagerness
for easy ascents and pony-parties which deprived them of the nobler
views to be met with on that side, — the hotel, of so many stationary
visitors, — and the guides of so much of their importance and pros-
perity. What was the flat unvaried ride from Llanberis compared
w'ith the wonders to be seen in going by Capel Curig, or even by
old Beddgelert, or Llyn Cwellyn ! But as it was all the fashion,
one of these days, he supposed, they would be making a long-
winded pony-road, winding miles round, and as smooth as a rail-
way, the whole distance from Capel Curig to the top of Wyddfa.
It had been projected, he said, for the last seven summers — it would
be done one of these days, and we might then go up Snowdon in an
easy arm-chair after dinner !

Not a little amused with the earnest and sarcastic tone of my
conductor, I had taken my way through the long narrow valley of
Dyffryn Mymbyr, with its two small lakes, approaching almost close
to the little hamlet and church of Capel Curig. The grand Siabod
rose on one side, and the shadow of the dark Glyder Bach fell on
our path from the other. Along the sides of the lakes, and on
patches of meadow, people were busy in their little hay-harvest, and
the black massy barriers of hills were in striking contrast with the
green bright hues of the banks of the lake and valley, and the more
verdant, cheerful aspect of Moel Siabod. Snowdon lay before me,
with its blue, or rather purple, peaks, softening downwards through
every grade of colour till it terminates in the deep-brown and
swarthy rocks in the foreground. Continually expanding and
changing its aspects as we drew nearer, — the light haze moving
round its summits, resting midway in deeper volumes, — now
obscuring and revealing different objects and points of view, blended
with the character of the surrounding scenery, formed a most in-
teresting approach.

\'2Q WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

After leaving the lakes, the general view grew more perfect in its
picturesque etfect, in form, and hues ; and I seemed to have caught
the point most favourable for the display of its beauty and sub-
limity; for at every step the enormous chain of hills, appearing to
detach and dilate in all their features, grew gradually rugged,
shivered, and indented; the wild jagged rocks, with their serrated
tops ; the falls and ravines, the light-veined spars, set in relief by
the darkest colours, with all the bleak and sterner features of the
landscape, fell upon the eye.

Having passed through the Glyder hills, which presented views
of the surrounding lakes and valleys scarcely less magnificent than
those beheld from Snowdon itself, I entered the steep precipitous
Cwm Glas, between Capel Curig and Beddgelert, and began the
most arduous labour of the whole day. I had selected this route as
partaking, I conceived, of the advantages of those able, indefatigable
tourists, Pennant, Skrine, and Bingley; nor was I displeased to
find that my guide highly approved of it, though he did not disguise
its difficulties. He engaged to bring me to the finest points of
view, without reference to toil or danger. By a broken, rock-strewn
path — trodden only by the neighbouring shepherds — wild as it was
precipitous, I reached the interior vales and lakes hidden in the
bosom of the great mountains. It was one laborious ascent of a
mile and a half, and both the guide and myself were well breathed
when we gained the first resting-point. In parts the surface was
spongy and boggy, with patches of green mosses and purple heath.
Sometimes our progress was almost perpendicular over huge stones
from rock to rock ; in places it was loose and gravelly, in others a
light elastic sward, and again as hard as adamant ; but new and
magnificent prospects began to open upon my view at every crag
or hill which we surmounted. Now and then we had a sudden and
bold descent, or came to patches of level at the head of a lake or
glen, so singularly strewn with huge round smooth stones, as to give
one an idea of some mountain giants having lately been amusing
themselves at ball and marbles. Our second resting place overhung

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 121

the sides of a rock, broken into a number of small precipices, do\vn
the centre of which a mountain-torrent discharged itself from the
source of the higher lakes. It was the Rhaiadr Cwm Dyli, and I
now gazed upon the green vale and meadows stretching far below.
The beautiful and romantic lake Gwynant, into which the foaming
cataract empties itself — the deep hollow of Cwm Llan beyond, and,
more near, the wild and lone Llyn Llydau, almost in the hollowed
summit of a vast hill, winding beneath the rocks, whose bold, irregu-
lar projections cast their black lines upon its surface, with a still
bolder cataract rolling above it, — all were spread at my feet in beau-
tiful and majestic variety. Around me there rose, pile upon pile,
those bold, columnar rocks, based upon the yet more massy walls of
the exterior barriers ; while, towering immediately above, the
highest range of the Snowdou cliffs, — savage, black, and terrible
to the eye, — threw their majestic shadow far over rock, and lake,
and vale.

Yet midway of our steep ascent I had beheld views as lovely and
beautiful as they were now stern and appalling. From the pinnacle
of a cliff, whose broad black masses above the high lakes gave them
a deeper hue, strangely contrasted with the ruddy streaks of the
Red Mountain, we saw the heavy mists rolling in volumes along
the sides and summits of the hills, and at times sweeping round
and below us, producing the appearance of being enveloped in
clouds. The prospect at that moment was bleak and wild in the
extreme ; and the sudden autumnal gusts, rushing at intervals
through the glens and hollows, had a strange, unearthly sound,
mingled with the distant blasting of the mines, and the cry of
the raven wheeling above our heads.

The day became cold and stormy; the depth and blackness of the
mountain shadows seemed to extend for miles, and a new horizon
of clouds gathered over the ranges of hills below us. Soon the
thick mists moved in tempestuous eddies, and for a few moments
the prospect was singularly novel and sublime. Surrounding
objects, and the summits of the loftier hills, appeared to roll with

R

1*>2 \VA\i)F.ins(;s 'inuorr;!! xdirin wat.f.s.

tlie sweopiuu; and dispersing fogs, as if agitated by the surges of the
restless sea; and as they slowly fled, and the horizon began to
clear, the splen(Ud scenery below revealed itself more distinctly.
The sun breaking forth illumined the mural steeps of the Lliwedd,
and shed a sudden radiance over the lakes and vales below.
The mountain wind, heard rushing through the fearful hollow
called the Pass of the Arrows, died away; and the distant cry of
the black gulls which haunt the little island on Lake Llydau, that
had risen loudly with the storm, now ceased.

The contrast was singularly striking; the lethargy I had felt
creeping over me, as the day grew black and wild, wholly subsided ;
and, standing on the site of an old copper-mine, half in sport, I
hurled down an immense stone, which, after some tremendous
rebounds, fell with a terrific sound into the waters beneath. Had
my guide been shot he could not have sprung round more suddenly.
His looks seemed to say that I had myself descended into the mine,
and, as he appeared rather serious, I asked him laughingly, why
Ryce of Cymdyli's geese (the jocular term for the black-backed
gulls) had left off singing? A broad smile then lighted up his
features, and he replied — ' Why, Sir, I thought they had left that to
the ravens when I heard something tumbling at such a I'ate, and
knocking and splashing as if the mine was mad.' He then good-
humoredly pointed out the sites of some old Hafodtai, or summer
farms among the hills ; the two Bwlchs of Maes Cwm and Cwm
IJrwynog (mountain hollows,) with the tremendous precipices over-
hanging them, and the black Lake of Arddw'y stretched at their
foot. He directed my eye to the Hill of Council, and to the deep,
rock-embedded Lakes of Llyn Glas, Llyn y Nadroeth, and the Red
Lake, reflecting in its waters the most brilliant and varied hues of
its glowing mountain. Wild and beautiful, it appeared not unmeet,
as tradition tells, to become the favourite haunt of Oberon and
his fairy train in their moonlit revels.

The conspicuous crown of all our toils — the Wyddfa — rose in
grandeur before us ; Crib y Di.-)till, \\ ith its serrated ridge on one

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 12.'3

side, and on the other the fiery streaks of the Red Mountain, in
strong relief against the dark-sprea(Ung boundary of the LUwedd.
The external barrier of Y Clawdd, terminating in lofty ridges,
jagged and narrow, filled up the outline of the stupendous hills we
had traversed in three toilsome ascents, but with unceasing delight
and wonder. The weather — cold and wild for the season — gave
fresh enchantment to the varying aspect of the clouds and shadows,
especially of the upland lakes and valleys, rising in a succession of
little regions within regions, resting calm and beautiful in the laj) of
the mighty hills. From the towering precipices overhanging Ffyn-
non las I beheld, through the deep hollows and ravines, a series of
panoramic beauties, — hills crowning hills, and vales and lakes upon
different levels, most picturesquely connected with each other by
waterfalls.

A short way from the summit we met the old Guide of Jiedd-
gelert, whom my companion saluted with marked good-will and
respect. It was a cordial meeting, and seemed to give equal
pleasure to both. The old man shook him heartily by the
hand, and regretted that he now saw him so seldom. ' 1 am
breaking fast, Robin,' he said, ' and you will see less of me
soon.'

' Now, you don't look so,' replied Robert, * it's perhaps fancy ;
but these hard up-and-down trips are enough to break any body,
let alone one of your years. It is time for you to turn gardener,
like my father, and leave this work to the ponies and the easy-
chairs — all the fashion now !'

' Nay, I was a sound man,' quoth the old Guide of Beddgelert,
* till we had that unlucky long search after the poor gentleman.'

* And so was I,' retorted Robert, ' sound in wind and limb, till
I made a dray-horse of myself, and carried huge, heavy parcels
on my back over the hills. Now, how old do you think I look?'

' About fifty.'

' There then — I am as old in back and bone, may be, as yourself.
Why, man, I am not thirty yet. Only I have broke my back, you

124 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

see, and part of my wind — all for being too eager at carrying in
my youth.' Tiie old man laughed, nor could his companion or
myself forbear smiling at the quaint tone of Robert.

* But who,' inquired I, *was the young gentleman you were
speaking of? '

* A gentleman staying at Capel Curig,' replied the old Guide,
'and, thinking he knew his way over the hills, didn't take Robin
with him.'

' That was the cause of it all,' rejoined Robert.

' So he left Capel Curig, you see, one day in October — far too
late.'

' Nay, it was not from our inn, I think,' interrupted Robert;
* Wasn't he from Beddgelert ? '

' No, sure ! ' replied the old man very seriously ; but seeing us
smile, he added, ' Ah, Robin, thou wert always a bit of a
wag.'

' Do you know all about it, Robert ? ' I inquired.

* From first to last,' was the reply, ' and I will tell it you, Sir,
anon.' Then shaking hands once more with the old Guide he
bade him farewell ; and we resumed our way.

I now passed along the edge of several precipices to gain a nearer
view of the great crater, right under the vast steep of Snowdon
summit, and it was truly horrible and appalling to the eye. Thence
we crossed along the sides of an almost perpendicular hill, on which
was only a shelving and uncertain footing. At one moment I
thought myself lost, from a sudden slipping of the ground, where
no place was afforded either to recover myself or to rest. Con-
sidering it only right to give notice, ' I am gone, Robert ! ' I called
out. ' Come on,' replied my companion, without turning his head,
*we are just over!' He could not have said any thing more
applicable — ' We are just over,' thought I, ' indeed ! ' I made a
fresh effort, and was soon laughing at his side. The last half
mile was more pleasant climbing — tolerably steep, but perfectly
safe and easy.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 125

This at length was Snowdon ! I stood upon the peak called the
Conspicuous, where I long tarried to behold the surrounding scenes
under every variety of aspect which the day might afford.

' Thus ardent I behold

Thee, Snowdon : King of Cambrian mountains, hail !

Tremendous Snowdon ! while I gradual climb

Thy craggy heights, though intermingled clouds,

Various of watery grey, and sable hue.

Obscure the uncertain prospect, from thy brow

His wildest views the mountain-genius flings ;

Now high and swift flits the thin rack along.

Skirted with rainbow dyes ; now deep below,

While the fierce sun strikes the illumined top.

Slow sails the gloomy storm, and all beneath,

By vaporous exhalation hid, lies lost

In darkness; save at once where drifted mists,

Cut by strong gusts of eddying winds, expose

The transitory scenes. — Here broken clifis

Caught at long intervals; anon a sea

Of liquid light, dark woods, and cities gay.

With gleaming spires, brown moors, and verdant vales,

In swift succession rush upon the sight.

Sudden on either side, the gathered clouds,

As by a sudden touch of magic, wide

Recede, and the fair face of heaven and earth

Appears. Amid the vast horizon's stretch,

In restless gaze the eye of wonder darts

O'er the expanse; mountains on mountains piled,

And winding bays and promontories huge ;

Lakes and meandering rivers, from their source

Traced to the distant ocean ; scattered isles.

Dark rising from the watery waste, and seas

Dividing kingdoms, and lerne crowned

By Wicklow's lofty range. Thou, who aspirest

To imitate the soft aerial hue

That shades the living scenes of chaste Lorraine,

l'J(» WANDF.lllNGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

Here, when the breath of autumn blows along
The bhie serene, gaze on the harmonious glow
Wide spread around, when not a cloud disturbs
The mellow light, that with a golden tint
Gleams through the grey veil of thin haze, diffused
In trembling undulation o'er the scenes."*

And such was the grand and varied picture I had that morning
beheld ! I had thus seen the majestic clouds sailing down the
sunnnits before the strong, keen blasts, or resting midway upon the
hills. Far as the eye could reach, a vision of wondrous power and
admirable beauty now unfolded itself, awakening new thoughts and
feelings in the soul, which trembled while it exulted in tracing the
startling and majestic characters stamped by an Omnipotent hand
upon these his glorious works. Sanguine as had been my expecta-
tions, that afternoon more than surpassed them all. The atmos-
phere became perfectly clear ; the day, magnificently beautiful, dis-
played the thousand surrounding objects to the distant horizon of
the sea, in the most brilliant and varied lights. The loftiest points
of England, Scotland, and Ireland, were not merely shadowed forth,
but were seen ; while the Menai, Anglesea, the Isle of Man, and
the surrounding hills and coasts, appeared to be spread immediately
below the eye. The impression was that of a world of solitude
stretching in a succession of prospects, fading into distant, softening
vistas, as agreeable to the eye as to the imagination. In the light
of a splendid sunset, which now began to illumine all the heights,
the nearmost hills and valleys glowed with softer and warmer
colours ; the numerous lakes and streams spread at our feet, losing
the dull, black hues reflected from the impending rocks, were
suffused with the departing radiance poured upon the summits, —
a deeper and fresher verdure seemed to clothe vale and glen, and,
in the dying glory of the sun-light, the sea beyond shone red and
dazzling like a mirrored fire. The vast mountain-buttresses of

* A Tour throu'rh Parts of Wales.

&

WANDERINOS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 127

Snowdon* — the colossal rocks, which prop its grandeur and its
strength, rose in bolder relief, and the very horrors of the abyss — its
deepest caverned waters — the hollows and gorges of the lower hills
— borrowed a lurid light, more distinct, but more appalling to the
sight.

The gradual twilight brought a succession of no less interesting
changes of scenic beauty, and convinced me, that to see Snowdon
we ought to remain upon its hills considerably longer than is usually
done. I had noticed a succession of visiters who arrived, as if mak-
ing a morning call, and, like ' shadows that come and go,' seemed
quite as eager to depart. But there was a pedestrian from the
lakes of Scotland of a different character, to whom I related my
morning's progress, and he observed, with enthusiasm, that in no
part of his tour had he found greater enjoyment than in his
walks through Wales.f

The descent from Snowdon into the vale of Llanberis presents
many picturesque views, but not so majestic or beautiful as those
on the side of Capel Curig and Beddgelert. A great part of the
way is barren and monotonous ; but this contrast served to heighten
our pleasure on reaching the delightful scenes which had presented
themelves from different points upon the hills.

Within a mile of Llanberis I entered a deep glen, crowned with
wild, wooded rocks, at the end of which the fierce cataract of
Caunant Mawr bursts upon the view. Pouring its mountain-torrent

* These natural bulwarks consist of five external masses of rock — the out-works of
the interior region of hills and lakes. They are called Crib y Distill, and Crib Coch,
between Llanberis and Capel Curig ; the Lliwedd towards Nant Gwynant ; Clawd
Coch towards Beddgelert; and Lechog, a mountain which forms the south side of
the Vale of Llanberis, near Dolbadcrn castle.

t In his recent ascents from different points, the writer had the pleasure of meeting,
on the summit of Snowdon, several enlightened foreigners. Two German travellers
and a young Frenchman were among the parties ; with strangers from Scotland, from
Ireland, and various other quarters. .\11 seemed to feel tlie jjcculiar kind of interest
to which the Author alludes, and he acknowledges the pleasure he received from
their society.

128 WANDERINGS TIinOUGII NOT^TII WALES.

sixty feet down rude, jjxgged rocks into a terrific abyss, it rolls foam-
ing over the broad embedded strata into the vale of Llanberis,
swelling the waters of its romantic lakes : perpetually supplied by
the mountain-streams of Cwm Brynog, it rushes through a chasm of
the rocks. The roar of its precipitous fall — the flashing of its waters
— and the strangely sequestered aspect of the spot in the very
gorge of the glen, had something inconceivably wild and melan-
choly.

The gloomy wildness of the distant view, — the dark, stern aspect
of the rocks above — the solitary tower of Dolbadern, in the pass of
the vale, — the mists rising over the lakes and hollows in the still
evening twilight, now offered a marked contrast to the vast and
mingled splendours I had witnessed from the heights above, and
presented images as strikingly novel as they were grand.

It was soon moonlight, and I beheld a prospect mirrored in the
silvery waters softer and more serenely fair than is seen in the
glare of day. Vaster from their dimness, on both sides rose
the rocky hills on which the moon shed a passing radiance, while
a flood of liquid light rested on the bosom of the munnuring
waters at my feet. The sound of the cataracts pouring from
lake to lake alone fell on the ear. But few objects now recalled
ideas of the feudal war and ferocity which once steeped these
peaceful valleys in blood; the cattle fed fearlessly by the water
side, and two old horses, — as if in derision of those chivalrous
times, and the proud caparisoned steeds which flew to conquest
or the chase, — were quietly resting under the very walls of the
once dreaded donjon tower of Dolbadern.

From the projecting eminence commanding the lake and pass,
on which lie the mouldering ruins of Dolbadern tower, — one of
the few structures still left in the narrow passes of the hills, — I
observed a skiff upon the water beneath, and, eager to enjoy a view
of the castle and surrounding scenery from the lake, I hailed it,
and joined two gentlemen who were fishing. They had, however,
but indifferent sport; I afterwards heard that the neighbouring

90

m ^

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALKS. I'i!)

copper works had destroyed most of the fish in the Llanberis
lakes. The easy motion of the boat seemed to lull my wearied
senses, like some soft and gentle air after the wild stirring music
of a bold march. As I gazed upon the time-dismantled walls of
the tower, Scott's fine description of Melrose Abbey — 'and you
must visit it by the pale moonlight,' — came into my mind.

Dolbadern was the central fortress of those commanding the
passes into Anglesea and Caernarvonshire. It is built in a circular
shape with hard, laminated stone, cemented with strong m.ortar.
The inner diameter measures twenty-six feet, its height is between
eighty and ninety, and the thickness of its walls nearly eight. It
appears to have had three stories, besides the vaulted basement
used as a dungeon; and the broken steps by which I ascended
showed that the communication was by a spiral staircase. 7'hat it
stood many an attack, the tumulus of loose stones at the foot of
the lower lake, and other remains of ancient fortifications, offer a
sufficient proof. It was accessible only by a single causeway.
By whom it was founded, or at what period, must still remain
a subject of conjecture. Mr. Pennant considers it the work of
some Welsh prince, from whom, with the surrounding ground, it
took its name; its erection, in this case, may be referred to the

«

eighth or ninth century. The seat of feudal violence or revenge,
a succession of hapless victims immured within its dungeon
often filled the adjacent hills and valleys with cries of distress.
Among these. Prince Owen, called Owen Goch, the Red, was
held captive by his brother Llewellyn, against whom he had com-
bined with his younger brother. They were defeated in a san-
guinary conflict, and Owen paid the penalty of twenty years'
solitary captivity in this tower. In the wars of Glendower it fre-
quently changed masters, being always considered one of the
master-keys into the interior of Snowdonia. Its ruins are now
spread over the entire summit of the bold projecting rock, exposing
to view the massy foundations of the exterior building, and the
site of its once terrific donjon.

s

1:30 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH AVALES.

Leaving the boat on the Capel Curig side, and the night con-
tinuing dehKhtfiillv clear — a fine harvest moon beaming with
unusual splendour through the heavens, — I was induced to pro-
ceed through a succession of majestic scenery, which assumed new
beauties in the deep, mellow hues of such a night, over the grand
Siabod, instead of returning back through the vale to the inn at
Llanberis. And I was further persuaded to return to the spot
from whence I had set out, by the hope of relating my pedestrian
exploits, with the impressions still fresh upon my mind, to an old
and valued friend, who had promisee! to join me during my
excursion.

But previously I stopt to take refreshment and an hour's repose
at a small, obscure inn — the only one I had seen for several miles.
Yet I was informed by my guide that some twenty years ago, before
the appearance of the present handsome hotels at Llanberis, Capel
Curig, Beddgelert, and other picturesque points, the Vaenol Arms
was considered one of the grand resorts — a modern Snowdonian
station of travelling rank and fashion.

As I sat listening to the history of its past fortunes from the lips
of the son of its once flourishing host, I felt forcibly the truth of the
old Roman's observation, that ' times are changed and we are
changed along with them.' Humorous and philosophical at once
was the position of the young Welshman, with his deserted house
of entertainment, which seldom saw either man or horse.

In the silence and desertion of the decayed inn I read an
excellent commentary on passing affairs in Wales, and the gradual
progress towards another state of things ; which, with the increasing
influence and prosperity of the people, will bind them in a still
closer union with England, and engraft, I hope, upon the old
British stock a few more English tastes and habits. Yet the obser-
vation of this important change produced a feeling allied rather to
sadness than to satisfaction, though the old \'aenol Arms could still
supply a cheerful glass, and, being situated in a large slate and
mineral district, abundance of news in regard to local topics — the

WANDEIilNGS THROUGH NORTH WALKS. 1:]1

quality and quantity of the produce — the current prices — the pro-
cesses of disembowelling copper, tin, and slate from the interior of
their primeval hills. The grand slate quarry of Allt Ddu, in the
declivity of the mountain, on the borders of the lake, was the theme
of hearty eulogy ; and the name of Mr. Smith and Vaenol, pro-
nounced with peculiar emphasis, and in a tone of respect bordering
upon veneration, — leading me to further inquiries, I could not with-
hold my admiration of the j)ublic spirit and enterprize of the
proprietor, nor — on subsequently witnessing the improvements and
corresponding advantages of the inclined plane — of the industry
and surprising ingenuity of the conductors and the workmen. The
numerous railways, also, connected with the different works, are
daily affording new facilities to commerce, and, by promoting the
rapid interchange of commodities, and consequently the increased
circulation of money, adding to the general wealth and importance
of the Principality. With new supplies, fresh markets have sprung
up in various directions ; and new wants being created by the con-
tinual discoveries and improvements of science, the fertilising
streams of intercommunication keep pace with the tide of popu-
lation and national intelligence.

Soon I stood amidst the splendour of a serene autumnal
moonlight upon the summit of the brown Siabod, and beheld
the clear refulgent radiance and the reflection of the deep
blue heavens streaming over hill, and lake, and vale, and
tinging the purple peaks of Snowdon with a soft golden light.
Nothing I had yet beheld — not even the glorious sunset I had
seen from Snowdon, and over the lakes of Llanberis — was com-
parable to the far-pervading calmness and beauty which appealed
to the soul more than to the eye, — a depth of repose which
seemed to emanate from those silent skies which canopied the
everlasting hills.

' The silence that is in the starry sky ;
The sleep that is among the lonely hills.

It was a scene before which the little passions and anxious caies

132 WANDERINGS THllOUGH NORTH WALES.

of man, reduced to their real proportions, with all their weakness,
wretchedness, and insignificance, might ' flee away and be at rest ;*
the deepest irremediable sorrow seek a haven from life's stormy sea
in the contemplations it inspires, and the memory of a world of
vicissitudes and woes be for ever shut out from the mind.

* All heaven and earth are still — though not in sleep,
But breathless, as we grow when feeling most;
And silent, as we stand in thoughts too deep : —
All heaven and earth are still: From the high host
Of stars, to the lull'd lake and mountain-coast,
All is concenter'd in a life intense,
Where not a beam, nor air, nor leaf is lost^
But hath a part of being, and a sense
Of that which is of all Creator and defence.

^r "V ^ ■^ f tT

Not vainly did the early Persian make
His altar the high places and the peak
Of earth-o'ergazing mountains, and thus take
A fit and unwall'd temple, there to seek
The Spirit, in whose honour shrines are weak,
Uprear'd of human hands. Come, and compare
Columns and idol-dwellings, Goth or Greek,
With Nature's realms of worship, earth and air,
Nor fix on fond abodes to circumscribe thy pray'r ! '

But the thoughts of some lovelier and less troubled existence,
inspired by the surpassing beauty and glory of the heavens from
the spot whence I contemplated them, were banished from my
breast ere I had well reached the termination of that night's wan-
derings, and by a circumstance singularly strange and affecting.
Upon passing the little rustic church, at the head of the lake, my
companion, pointing to the burial ground which surrounds it,
observed that he would, now we had finished our long and difficult
perambulation, explain the whole story of the young traveller, to
whom some allusion had been made on our way when we met the
old guide of Beddgelert.

WANDEUINGS THIIOUGII NOK'I'H WALES. 1;J;}

' It was on the eighth day of October, not quite three years ago,'
began my guide, seating himself on the low wall of the little ceme-
tery, while I stood at the head of a large but plain monumental
stone, placed in a comer of the ground below where he sat, ' it was
just the eighth of October, three years gone, that two young gen-
tlemen, stopping at Capel Curig, wished to go to Beddgelert; and,
for the shortest cut, determined to cross over the great Siabod
Mountain, though it was then nearly two o'clock in the afternoon,
and, thinking they were acquainted well enough with the country,
without taking a guide. Had I known what they meant to do, I
would either have dissuaded them from the attempt, or prevailed on
them to let me go along with them, though I handled not a stiver —
leaving it entirely to their honour. Sir, as I have done in your case.
But they were not so lucky as to let me hear of it, nor a single soul
at the inn ! Why, Sir, it was a month too late to try such a
journey — even had I been to accompany them, — and at such an
hour of the day ! But it was to be so ; for as I saw them go out, as
I thought for a short walk, he — that I never saw again till the
shepherds brought him here on his bier — was laughing and joking
to his friend in the highest spirits, and in a way that on going a
journey is no good sign. There had been a long dead calm ; but
that afternoon it was too still to be natural, — the look-out, and in
the distance was far too clear, — there were red streaks over the
line of the sun's going down all along the sky ; old Snowdon and
the hills about him looked much too near, while above the Ogwen
and the Trifaen to the east it seemed as dull ; and I knew there was
a black spot, though I could not see it, to the seaward beyond
the Lavan Sands. What struck me most was the closeness of the
air, so unusual to the season, and w'hich led the poor gentleman
to observe, as he passed me, how pleasant it was ; and he added
what was true enough — ' You w^ill see me again, Robin, before
long.' Though the waters were low, there was a dull, hollow boom-
ing among the hills, and, while not a breath was stirring, the lakes
were beginning to be rough and restless — the birds flew low — and

134 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

here and there, over the falls of the Swallow and the Conway, I
that morning heard the scream of the black gulls, and the old
ravens, instead of sweeping round as they did to-day, were bending
for the plains and hollows, knowing well enough that the earth
was ready to yield them food. There was little need that after-
noon for the shepherds to go far aloft to find their flocks; the
herds of black kine, no more seeking the green or lofty points,
came tossing their heads, and ran wildly to congregate in droves
under the sheltered sides and recesses of the mountains. The few
deer and goats were not far behind them, and even the fox and his
brother vermin might be watched taking to their deep and secret
lairs. But what I liked the least, showing the appearance of a heavy
storm, were the fish, whose ways I know as well as most ; for hours
before it set in, they were busy enough disputing with the birds for
their share of the flies and knats, which almost covered the surface
of the waters, just handy and within reach. Every thing seemed
quite still and afraid besides the fish and the pigs, and the last were
noisy enough ; they turned up their litter and the very stones with
their noses. And if you had seen the scouring, and neighing, and
tossing of the wild ponies, — and the spurring and whipping of some
of the old farmers returning from market, and well nigh being
washed into the rivers along with the mountain torrents, or crushed
under the falling fragments of rock.

* Yet while man, and beast, and bird, and fish, sought the lone
covers and deep recesses above or below these old lakes and hills,
those two poor gentlemen went forward full of confidence and high
cheer, but with less knowledge and foresight of what was coming than
the meanest animal or reptile that found a home, which that dreadful
night they could not do, in the horrors of a tempest, amidst the wild
Snowdon rocks. And in so far a mere beast is often wiser than a
man, for such is the will of God — one has got it planted in him
by nature, and the other has got it to learn. Well, it was such a
night as I expected; the middle autumn winds* and the waters

* l]y this term Robert Hughes jioctically enough meant to designate the equinoctial gales.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 135

were out, and the red lightning and thunder-claps seemed as if
they would rive the hugest hills asunder with their bolts. But
who thought those two young gentlemen were upon the hills till,
about three of the morning, one of the people of the inn was awoke
by the voice, or rather the groans, of some person crjung out and
knocking feebly for admittance ! Upon opening the door we were
alarmed at finding one of the gentlemen, who had that afternoon
left us, in a state of complete exhaustion, and with marks of wild-
ness and terror in his countenance. After being recovered from
the excessive cold, which seemed to have benumbed his faculties,
he broke forth into lamentations upon the apprehended fate of his
companion, who, he repeatedly declared, he felt assured was no
longer alive. Upon being questioned he stated, that when midway
ov^er the hills on their way to Beddgelert, they were overtaken by the
storm and the night, and became completely lost. To add to the
horrors of such a situation, in their attempts to recover their path
they unhappily became separated, and though he heard his friend's
voice calling upon his name, so great was the darkness or the fog
that he failed to rejoin him, after having once suddenly disappeared
from his view. Long and vainly had he called and sought for him
in all directions, and the most horrible feeling, which he described,
was that of hearing the voice of his friend, through the storm and
the darkness, growing feebler and feebler, as he conjectured, from
their having wandered still farther from each other.'

' But surely,' interrupted I, ' their voices would tend to guide
them towards each other.' ' That,' replied my informant, ' was the
strangeness of the thing — you will hear — for it surprised and per-
plexed the gentleman, who could not explain how he had found his
way back through the hills, and had not himself perished. He
believed that he often heard and followed the voice of his com-
panion throughout the night — borne feebly to his ear in the pauses
of the blast, and again lost in the whirlwind and tumult of the
tempest. On he went for some hours, almost momentarily expect-
ing to rejoin him, whom he imagined he heard calling his own

136 WANDERIxVOS TIIHOUOH NORTH WALES.

name at a distance. By following the voice he had gradually
extricated himself from the inner mountains, and at length found
his way into the valley of the Mymbyr, at no great distance from
the village.'

' He then,' continued my companion, ' hurried forward to over-
take his friend, who, from the voice, he conceived was not far before
him — but he could percieve no one — and from that moment the
sound seemed no longer to haunt his ear. But a strange misgiving
and alarm seized upon him, and he felt a melancholy prognostic
that his friend was no more. He insisted forthwith upon joining
the guides, who, being summoned from different places to the
number of fourteen, hastened in hopes of discovering traces of the
unfortunate young man. During twelve days all parts of the
Snowdonian hills between Capel Curig and Beddgelert were care-
fully traversed, but nothing was either seen or heard of him. At
length his friend and the guides were reluctantly induced to aban-
don the bootless task — not without some hopes that he might
possibly have escaped alive. It happened that one day early in
November, a party of shepherds, being driven to seek shelter from
a sudden hail storm at the foot of a rocky recess in the higher hills,
in the direction of Beddgelert, about three miles from the road,
found the body — which they bore back to Capel Curig, where it
was interred. From the appearance of surrounding circumstances,
it was concluded that he had not perished from a fall, but had
retired thither for shelter, and died of cold — perhaps in his sleep.
And you are now standing,' continued my guide, ' at the head of
his grave ; and it is almost light enough for you to read the words
upon the stone.' They were brief and simple — bearing the name
of him ' whose death is greatly to be lamented.' I felt singu-
larly affected, having just traversed by night the same hills upon
which he had been lost, with the guide who had there vainly sought
for him, and who, had he stood at his side as now at mine, might
have averted the unhappy event.

' And I now see, Robert,' I observed, ' why you interrupted the

WANDERINOS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 137

aged guide when he was about to tell me this unhappy occurrence ;
you thought it would damp the pleasure I should have iu crossing
the mountains ; or, perhaps, that it might altogether deter me.'

' It was the first, Sir,' replied my guide, ' for you don't seem to
be afraid of being left in the dark, or going alone with any one,
either by day or by night.'

' And did his friends pay the last offices to him, or was he laid
here by the hands of strangers ?' I inquired.

* All that I know, Sir, is, that his sister was here, not more than
three days ago, to see the place where he was buried — that I saw
her as she stood on the spot where you are standing now; and this
is the first and the last which I know about it. I have told you
what I promised.' Turning away abruptly, and with apparent
indifference, he began puffing the smoke from his short, well-
practised pipe with redoubled activity and resolution. It had been
his great resource in the intervals of our labours, and he seemed
to esteem it a complete antidote for all evils; but I wronged
him.

' I think you like that pipe, Robert,' I said, 'better than any
thing else in the world !' ' No, Sir,' he replied, 'it is not just that,
for I always smoke hardest when I feel the world's trouble coming
upon me to stop it, and so it was but now.' Soon after, as we walked,
he told me in a few words — no longer in the same careless tone he
had before put on, and through volumes of repeated puflPs — ' how
he had, not long before, lost the most lovely and promising of his
children, a favourite of all who knew her. The news of it came much
like that storm upon the poor gentleman, and I was thinking so of
it, just as I broke so rudely away from you when I ended the story.
No, Sir,' he added, with a mournful smile, ' there is something I
love in the world still better than my pipe ! ' I stood rebuked
before the simple and all-powerful voice of nature in the heart of
a father — from the lips of an untutored but honest man.

T

CHAPTER IX.

TRAVELLING REFLECTIONS, &C.

If countries we compare,

And estimate the l)les.sin<,'s which thoy share,

Though patriots flatter, still shall wisdom find

An equal portion dealt to all mankind ;

As different good, by art or nature given

To different nations, makes their blesssings even.

Goldsmith.

Among the few real enjoyments of life, none, perhaps, surpass
those open to the enlightened traveller in the absorbing interest
of historical associations — in comparing the present with the past,
and the progress of different people in the race of knowledge and
consequent industry and prosperity. There is, indeed, one object
in such a pursuit yet more laudable and ennobling, given only
to minds like Howard's to appreciate, — the godlike pleasure of
travelling, not to gratify his own tastes and feelings, but for the
relief and happiness of his fellow-men.

The mere knowledge, nevertheless, of the social condition of a
nation at different periods, — considered with relation to modern
discovery and improvement, and to the progress of its neighbours, —
must always be productive of advantage ; and in no way can this
knowledge be so effectually acquired as by cultivating personal
acquaintance with the distinctive features and characteristics of
different people forming one great community, subject nearly to
the same laws and government. And how diverse, in all leading
points, the genius and temperament of the Scotch, the Irish, and
the Welsh ! — while all as strangely differ from the great nation
with which they have gradually become incorporated.

WANDERINGS THUOUGH NORTH WALES. 139

T0 estimate rightly the capabilities of each, — their moral, intel-
lectual, and physical energies, and their actual social position in
connection with European civilisation, — we must not only examine
their existing institutions, but we must find the key of these, and of
their present character, in their earlier fortunes — in their prevail-
ing superstitions — in their heroic struggles — and in the degrees of
social emancipation which have resulted from them.

At a period, also, so singularly interesting and momentous as the
present, (when modern science presents us with immense facilities
of intercourse, — one of the great instruments of civilisation, daily
bringing the leading interests of mankind into closer communion,
and embracing the most distant lands,) the traveller of the nine-
teenth century seems almost under a moral obligation to obey the
impulse towards a more enlightened and purer state of society,
when, under juster laws, the people shall command time and
disposition to know the dignity to which every human mind may
attain, and, so knowing, to assert it. Without, in some measure,
blending his views and feelings and embuing his previously
acquired knowledge with a knowledge of the capacities and
wants of those amidst whom he sojourns, the wanderer is as
unjust towards himself as he is ungrateful towards others, and in
so far defeats the real purpose of all travel and discover}-, — the
increase of science and social happiness, instead of bringing a sword,
peace and good-will to the heart of the stranger. When now, too,
from the different points of the grand European roads extending on
all sides, (the basis of future regeneration and improvement, which
few statesmen dream of — the resistless vanguard of civilisation,)
the bold pedestrian can enter the remotest districts, and easily come
in contact with various classes and professions, observe the changes
in progress, the fast-decaying traditions and customs which, like the
sea and the land, can no longer resist the wonder-working triumphs
of modern art, — he ought to aspire to something better than the idle
curiosity of seeing, or the vanity of being seen. Let him follow
where the genius of his country, and the age in which he lives, —

140 WANDERINGS TIIROUtJlI NORTH WALES.

extending their influence to almost every land on which he can
set foot, — would impel him, and, as an English writer, he would
henceforth be received by other nations with even more gratifying
distinction than he has been as a man.

It is thus, perhaps, the characteristics of the Welsh appear in
their truest colours to the mountain-wanderer. No other can
so well catch the minuter lights and shades of their character, —
those points and peculiarities in their genius and temper springing
out of former institutions, antique customs and traditions, and the
progressive wants, and the capabilities to supply them, which consti-
tute the community as it is.

By mingling as often as I could with natives of different districts,
occupations, and professions, I sought to find the source of some
of those peculiarities observable in the Welsh of the nineteenth cen-
tury, and, among others, to account for that distinguishing loyalty
and fidelity — that apathy and indifference to popular excitement,
accompanied by a want of vigour and combination, as remarkable
in the individual as in the body of the people. It struck me, that
the same aversion to the adoption of English habits and manners
might produce that dislike of political discussion, and apparent
neglect of popular privileges, so strangely contrasting with the
Irish, the English, and even the Scotch. But it was not so ; the
opinion of a whole people is seldom wrong, and I found that the
calmness and equanimity of the modern Welsh — so inconsistent
with their old hot spirit — resulted from fair and equal laws, a real
adaptation and union of interests with those of the incorporating
state. Welsh loyalty had its origin in a noble and lofty sentiment —
the gratitude of an entire nation, and the still grateful recollection
of receiving justice from their former oppressors, and at the hands
of a descendant of their native princes, who rose to sway the sceptre
by which they had once been enslaved. Hence, the inactive spirit,
the quiet, patriarchal simplicity, the devotion to monarchy, and
the passive obedience, forming so marked a contrast with that fierce
insurgent spirit, so daring and irrejjressible previous to the accession

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 141

of the House of Tudor. No stronger instance, indeed, could be
adduced of the paramount influence of political causes in the
moulding of national character ; and could the Irish or the Poles
have exchanged circumstances with the conquered Welsh, I have
not the least doubt but their pacific disposition and devoted
loyalty would have been equally conspicuous with those of the
latter.

It is curious to consider how the fortunes of a people are found
connected with some ancient prophecy or tradition ; and, however
we may smile at the idea of sanctioning the influence of the stars,
the power of divination, and, in short, fortune-telling, history, both
sacred and profane, tends to countenance the impression, and the
most firm and enlightened are not at all hours wholly free from it.
It is an historical fact, that few nations are without some one pre-
vailing superstition, — some tradition which has exercised a powerful
sway over their social and political existence.

Simply as an historical fact, it is worth remarking, that the old
prophecy of the Welsh, so generally received, of one of their princes
being destined to rule over all Britain, was borne out, not by the
re-appearance of King Arthur, or by the triumph of Llewellyn,
but by the event through which they seemed at length to behold its
completion, in the accession of a Tudor to the British throne.

When Edward Plantagenet, in his pride of conquest, exposed to
public gaze the bones of the famed son of Uther, and placed a
bauble round the trunkless head of the last of the Welsh princes in
derision of the popular tradition, he would have laughed to scorn
the mere suggestion that, in one sense at least, the prophecy was still
destiued to be fulfilled — in the downfall of the mighty family of the
Plantagenet by a descendant of those very princes whom he sought
to extirpate from the soil. And as little imagined the Welsh they
were to owe all that men should hold dear, — a wiser freedom,
justice, and the regeneration of their land, with a participation in all
the privileges of their conquerors, — to one of their princes seated on
the English throne, who, with their aid, was destined to overthrow

14!2 WANUEllINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

the last and most warlike of the Noiinan kings. Such, at the
period, was the respect for the national prophecy and the supersti-
tion of the Welsh, that, on landing, the son of Owen Tudor raised
the standard of the Island Dragon — the ensign borne by the
famous Arthur; and this appeal to their nobler recollections
doubtless secured his good fortune, by exciting the enthusiasm
of his countrymen.

Henry, sensible of the important services rendered him by the
Welsh, repealed the obnoxious laws enacted by his predecessors,
and subsequently, with a view of improving the internal govern-
ment of the Principality, sent his eldest son. Prince Arthur, into
Wales. He was attended by a council of laymen and divines, to
assist him in devising means for its future welfare and prosperity.
The prince restored many of their harmless rights and privileges,
and established peace along the borders.

From this period we may date the marked change so observable
in the character of the Welsh, — that calm and almost abject submis-
sion as relates to all questions of a political nature ; while, however,
they adhered as resolutely as before to their peculiar customs and
their language. They have since, to all appearance, become a
different people, showing as little disposition for change or innova-
tion of any kind as they previously evinced for a peaceable life, when
goaded by a vicious government. Even novelty and fashion, till very
recently, could boast no charm in their eyes ; and so far from an
eagerness to shed each other's blood as of old, no persuasion of
fortune, no hardship or disappointment can impel the modern
Welshman to shed even his own. So great is the caution and
aversion to change, that while the higher classes adopt with the
English costume the English tastes and fancies, the simpler body
of the people retain their prhnitive look and vest — still humour
their old love of economy with linsey-woolsey, and wear few articles
that have not been manufactured at home. Nay, the raw material
nmst be also of native growth, or the home-spun does not sit easily
and well. If they can be called proud of any thing, it is of their

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 140

industry, the good of their family, and the reputation of their
country. And nothing pleases a genuine Welshman more than to
behold the manufactured article, the old British costume, extending
even to the confines of the metropolis, adorning its antique market
gardeners, its milkmen, its fish or flower girls.

Yet, spite of his calm demeanour and steady habits, it often
struck me there was a sort of hurry in the actions of a true-born
Welshman, a want of despatch and sequence, either as regarded his
work or his ideas, — defects which I was induced to think only better
education could remove. The gradual introduction of an improved
system in the conduct of business and the affairs of life seemed equally
desirable, and a native writer* has quaintly remarked — ' that from
over heat and anxiety of mind the Welshman allows himself to be
diverted from one labour to another ; hence every thing is incom-
plete— leaving the appearance of confusion and negligence, and
he thus does nothing well.' Although this is more severe than just —
I might add rather sharp practice coming from a Doctor of Laws,
and a countryman — it is not wholly unfounded in truth, as I occa-
sionally found, to my cost, in my progress through the less visited
portions of Wales.

Of course, this is not meant to apply to the genius of the country,
but to accidental causes, which more favourable circumstances would
at once remove. Among the educated classes, how numerous
have been the distinguished men who have conferred lustre
upon their country by their deeds in the field or upon the
ocean, their high qualities in the court, the cabinet, and upon
the bench. And not less than in every department of civil
government are they favourably known by their distinction in
science, and in the various walks of literature and the polite
arts. No equal extent of the empire, perhaps, has produced
— whether for better or worse — more soldiers, sailors, and pro-
fessional men. The battle of Maida, we are told, was a Cam-

* John Jones, LL.D. History of Wales.

1 44 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

brian achievement ; the most distinguished oflicers at Waterloo,
where all fought so well and some fell, were the sons of Wales.
The mitre at all times has graced the head of a Cambrian ; in
medicine, the names of the ancient Britons are always found on
the rolls of the college ; and in jurisprudence Wales has always
furnished more than her proportion of talent. And to sum up
all, — if we wish to form an abstract idea of the perpetuating powers
of research and labour, — we have only to mention the name of
Abraham Rees ! There is no want of real energy, then, whatever
we may say of method, in the Welsh character. Want of intercourse
and mental cultivation are favourable neither to habits of thought
nor to skill and practice ; and add to these the modern political
restraints on the bold, free energies, and upon the amusements of
the people, without finding some adequate substitutes in the dis-
semination of knowledge, and the improved condition of the
people, to take the place of the ancient sports and games.

CHAPTER X.

CAPEL CUKIG TO BEDDGELERT, THE VALE AND LAKE OF r.WVNANT, &l'.

Pleasure, that comes unlook'd-for, is thrice-welcome ;

And, if it stir the heart, if aught be there,

That may hereafter in a thoughtful hour

Wake but a sigh, 't is treasured up among

The things most precious ; and the day it came,

Is noted as a white day in our lives.

Bogers.

The road from Capel Curig to the deep secluded scenei7 round
Beddgelert presents a continued succession of sublime and
picturesque views. Proceeding about four miles in the direction
of Llanberis, I beheld to my right the wild, romantic pass called
Bwlch y Gwyddyl, where the rocks, on both sides, rise to a
stupendous height; and on my left appeared a wonderful variety
of prospects, as I pursued my path through the Snowdon hills
along the banks of several lakes.* Fresh vistas of hills, and
vales, and waters, opened in all their loveliness or splendour upon
the eye as I advanced. Here and there the bx'oad black shadow
of some rock threw its sombre hues upon the lake, w-hile the
flashing cataract or the glittering spar-veins, glowing in the sun,
offered in other parts as marked a contrast and relief.

Soon I entered the charming and picturesque valley of Gwynant,
where the once rich, abundant woods, the sparkling streams,
and all the happiest interchange of the most varied mountain
scenery, gave to it the distinctive title, with the surrounding region,

* The direct road, — now some time completed,— gives every advantage to the traveller,
— offering the most favourable points of view ; so much so as to leave nothing as regards
scenic effect to be desired.

U

146 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

of the Forest of Snowdon. And well, at that moment, — as I
marked the thousand beauties spread around nie in the mellow
autumnal tints, the softened lights of the purple peaks, and the
serene sky, — did it seem to deserve the name, and to awaken
those touching associations which it is difficult, amidst scenes long
deserted and again revisited, not to indulge. Before me, in the
distance to the left, lay the picturesque old bridge, and with its
noisy weir and sweeping streams, appeared to me, at that moment,
no unapt emblem of the vain turmoil, the swift passing shadows
of mortal emptiness and pride.

I felt a pleasing emotion, too, in contemplating the ruins of that
little chapel, which had been consecrated by benevolence; for it was
raised by the pious attachment of one who, after long absence,
returned to repose beneath his native shades. In early life, John
Williams left his native vales to try his fortune in the great
metropolis. Plaving established himself in a small way as a
goldsmith, he at length, by care and industry, accumulated a
tolerably handsome fortune. This he had no sooner accomplished
than he resolved to return, and promote the welfare of his country-
men among the hills and streams of his boyhood.

It was here that the union of stream, and lake, and fall, so pecu-
liar a feature of the Caernarvon hills, most struck my fancy, giving
that nameless charm to a solitary ramble which more than compen-
sates for the loss of companionship, or the most arduous pedestrian
toil. The fresh breath of morning fanned my brow — some new
beauty continually broke upon the eye — the first red leaves blown
across my path, or whirling in eddies down the currents, told the
evening of the year was nigh ; and the blue mists on the distant
hills, — the beautifully variegated foliage of the trees, — the fragrant
dew yet glittering on herb and flower, with the early matin song
of birds, — the winds whistling through the mountain-hollows, and
the far-off sound of the cataract, — all combined to inspire a freshness
and elasticity of feeling which only the morning traveller can
intensely enjoy.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALLS. 147

I could have chosen no happier hour or season for beholdiiur
the most lovely of all the Snowdon valleys under the thousand
changing hues, — the now soft now brilliant touches — those deeper
mingling lights and shadows of the falling year. As I passed by
the margin of the broad, clear stream which joins the delightful
lake Gwynant with the waters of Llyn y Dinas, — itself almost as
interesting, and deeply embosomed amidst the towering rocks, —
I heard the distant but gradually swelling notes of the hounds,
the answering bay of the sheep-dog, which, with the tinkling of
the distant bells, and the occasional explosion of a mine, had a
singular effect amid the deep solitude which surrounded me.
Upon both sides of the noble stream stretched a pleasant green-
sward, so bright, so sweetly secluded, — if tradition speak correctly,
— as to have been the favourite haunt, not only of the Snowdon
hunters of other days, but of those more fastidious revellers, that
love the moonlight to weave their deep, green circle, and their
fairy spells by the flowery bank, or in the soft, fresh grass. And
who but would linger by night or by day in a spot almost unrivalled
for its combination of natural beauties, and which offers so many
advantages to opposite tastes, — in the most pleasant and varied
pursuits? Without having recourse to history or legend, the
associations of heroic and feudal times, no where can the lover
of science, the botanist, the angler, the artist, the antiquary, or the
geologist, find more pleasing occupation for their several dis-
positions.

On approaching the vicinity of Beddgelert the remarkable rock
of Dinas Emrys presents itself, vast, insulated, and wooded, — one
of those monuments which carries the thoughts back to the days
of genuine British fable and romance. Its height, its inaccessible
steepness, and the large stone ramparts yet visible, still point
it out as the stronghold of the feeble Vortigern, who, shrinking
from the daring task which his treachery had planned, vainly
hoped to screen himself from its consequences, by leaguing with
the enemies of his country and appealing to the stars.

148 WANDERINGS TIIKOUOil NOUTH WALES.

The 111) li'ss singular aiul rock-girt mass adjoining to it, and
known as the Groves or Caves of the Magicians, offers a curious
subject for speculation, which may be pleasantly indulged by
perusing some of our early British chronicles. A portion of these
quaint narratives, appertaining to the origin and uses of the
religious abodes, with the gigantic labours and no less gigantic
superstitions of our forefathers, possess both imaginative and
historical interest, and no slight fund of anecdote and amusement.
Tradition will have it, that King Vortigern, or his successor,
bestowed it upon the favourite soothsayer whose name it bears.
By the Welsh it is called Merddin Emrys ; and on its summit,
from his diviner's cell, we are assured that the learned astrologer
expounded the secret wisdom of the skies to the trembling
monarch ; and his exploits may still be read, to the no small
gratification of lay and clergy, in the curious notes upon Drayton
by the no less learned Selden. And thus it is said or sung : —

' Here prophetic Merlin sate, when to the British King
The changes long to come auspiciously he told ;
And, from the top of Brith, so high and wondrous steep,
Where Dinas Emrys stood, shewed where the serpents fought —
The white that tore the red, from whence the prophet wrought
The Britons' sad decay then shortly to ensue.'

As I now drew nigh the little hamlet through the magnificent
valley, which, at every point of the road between Capel Curig and
Beddgelert, presents some novel charm, I was struck with the
sublime and desolate aspect of the mountain scenery. The
expanding hills, casting a broader and deeper shade, their
majestic dark-brown foregrounds, their grey or purple summits, —
here the dense wood, and there the purple heath, — while rock, and
stream, and fall, assuming a thousand varied and brilliant colours
as they reflected the vivid noon-tide rays, told me that I was once
more amidst the favourite scenes of my boyhood ; and Beddgelert,
revisited, inspired a feeling of trancjuil delight not inferior to that
with which it was first beheld. Absence, and long conthmod

WANDEUJNOS TIIIIOL'GH N'OltTlI U ALi:3. 149

residence in cities, when they do not quite obUterute younger
emotions, and the early love of nature and rural life, give assuredly
a fresh zest to their charm.

The pleasant site of Beddgelert, in the heart of these bold,
romantic hills, — its smooth, green meadows and pleasant streams,
its sylvan beauty, and the rich contrast of the scenes by which it
is surrounded, with its many varied objects of interest sufficient
to amuse every taste, — came more fresh upon the mind and the
eye, after the agreeable excitement of my morning walk. It was
here, after many days long and toilsome rambles among the Caer-
narvon hills, I was prepared, truly, to enjoy a brief repose, though
I never felt less weary than when I wound my way along the river
to the spot where the three valleys meet. It had the same
serene and quiet pastoral look as when I visited it years before;
and with renewed pleasure I watched the murmuring confluence
of the Gwynant and the Colwyn ; the river afterwards flowing
through scenery highly romantic, till it reaches the wild falls and
rocky breaks which surround Pont Aber Glaslyn. The afternoon
of my arrival in Beddgelert was devoted to the enjoyment of its
hospitable cheer with a few fellow-pedestrians I there met, to the
luxury of repose, and the yet greater luxury of unexpectedly spend-
ing it with a companion of my school days. We had a delightful
little banquet, at which social wit and good humour presided, with
that pleasant idleness one most enjoys after laborious toil, whether
physical or intellectual. I felt the force of Professor Wilson's
remark, when I met him in his angling days at Ambleside, ' that
to relish these moments of reaction with true zest, one must be out
at least three days among the upper hills, and get a good sprink-
ling of the heavens, if we would know the right flavour of a social
glass on our return.' The well-remembered hours I there spent in
his fascinating society — where fishing, boating, and rambling were
all his hobbies, though they ill disguised the repressed fires of
eloquent genius and true poetry which glowed beneath the surface,
— and with Mr. Wordsworth, then in his little cottage, on the banks

150 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

of Grassmcro, above five and twenty years ago — (eheu ! fiujaccs^
Postume, PosthiufieJ — came vividly back to mind as I sat with my
old friend and my new pedestrian acquaintance in the modern-
antique inn at Beddgelert.

Nothing was wanting to complete the chann of the hour, and it
is accordingly marked in the grand archives of the hotel — deposited,
of course, with the excellent host of the ' Goat,' — as one of the
whitest days of my Welsh wanderings. And it deserves to be
among the pleasantest of my recollections, for it is assuredly one of
the most courteous, hospitable, as well as the neatest of Cambrian
inns. To estimate, however, at the full value, its excellent
accommodations, the gratifying attentions of the good-humoured
host and the exquisite flavour of his viands, the stranger should take
a walk of some fifteen miles over the hills before dinner. He will
then find the recent improvements on the part of the proprietor,
with the alterations and embellishments of the intelligent landlord,
(I mean after dinner,) the most judicious and elegant in the
world, and, after his heroic pedestrianism, he will partake of the
* otium cum dignitate,' — Anglice, a good table, the best wine
and attendance, with the best grace imaginable. How it improves
the flavour of fresh-stream trout, of mountain-mutton, and the
pleasures of a siesta and a cigar, beneath the shade of trees
beside the murmuring Glaslyn, it were needless to relate !

The views immediately around Beddgelert, though described by
successive travellers as admirably adapted to inspire religious
meditation, by the bleak ' sombre character of the mountains,
whispering groves, and tumbling waters,' were far from producing
any similar impression on my mind ; in part, perhaps, owing to the
conversation of my friend, and a glorious sun-set which threw an
enlivening splendour on every object far and near. So little was
I ' in the mood,' that I put off" my visit to the faithful Gelert's
grave, and to the little village church, till the ensuing morning,
and took my way towards the rude, picturesque looking mill, with
its noisy stream and rock-strewn bed. Its modern use and antique

WANDETtfNGS TIIUOUGII NORTH WALES. 151

appearance seem sufficiently at variance ; but its lonely site, its
rustic air, the dashing of its waters, with the whole scene around
and beyond, are such as to arrest the eye of the painter. Though
many of the cloud-capped rocks towering above no longer wear
the noble mantle of their patriarchal oaks, — ill exchanged for the
darker hues of the fir, — they give a wildness and grandeur to the
picture, especially when beheld from an eminence above the village,
which no eye can behold with indifference.

Returning after a quiet evening stroll to the inn, — I ought
rather to say the Beddgelert hotel, for it may vie with the best
in modern taste and true British comfort, — I remarked on my
entrance the old Cambrian sign of the Goat, which the rage of
innovation has yet spared, with its appropriate motto for the neigh-
bourhood— ' Patria mea petra' — my country is a rock. While amus-
ing myself with conjectures as to its age and origin, I saw the old
guide of Beddgelert, whom I had met on Snowdon, and thinking,
perhaps, I might be in want of a Latin dictionary, he approached,
and saluted me with great courtesy. He treated me to a Welsh
interpretation, and after a learned discussion made sundry inquiries
appertaining to his younger contemporary of Capel Curig, — in
other words ' the lad Robin,' withal he looks at least sixty, — and
expressed himself in high terms of his topographical learning, his
industry, and civility. I could do no less than ask him to drink
' the lad Robin's' health ; and a conversation, which might have
borne reporting to the Antiquarian Society, was unhappily cut short
by a whole tribe of little spar and crystal sellers, who, followed by
the bare-footed representatives of the spinning and knitting
interests, with their incessant clamour of ' buy, buy, buy,' speedily
put us both to flight.*

* ' At Beddgelert, as in many other parts of Wales, the children of the poor constantly
beset strangers, oiTering to them crystals and specimens of spar, which the mines afford
in great abundance ; and it is seldom that an English word can be got from them beyond
" Yes," or " No," or " Cuppar, coppar ;" which latter word they use as they offer a
specimen, and it might be supposed that it was copper ore they wished to part with ; but
they mean copper coin is what they want.' — Smith's Guide to Snowdonia.

15*2 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

In the idea, I suppose, of making the close of the day harmonise
with tlic rest, I found that my worthy host had prepared a hght but
excellent supper to welcome my return. Finding that he was as
intelligent as he was good humoured and attentive, we afterwards
requested his company ; and by his exact local information and
shrewd remarks,* he left me less cause to regret the interruption of
the learned conversation with the ancient guide. I was soon mas-
ter of the pi'evailing topics of the village, — to say nothing of its
history, topography, and antiquities, — all the little changes, past or
in progress, and all those varieties, vicissitudes and freaks of
fortune — about as important on the rustic stage as upon the wider
theatre of mighty cities.

It was no want of employment, therefore, as that agreeable and
obvervant tourist, Mr. Bingly, says was his case at Beddgelert, but
the surpassing beauty of the following night, which again tempted
me forth.

Proceeding only a short distance, I first beheld the mountain of
Craig Llan soaring high above the river which bathed its base, and
immediately opposite to the inn. The clear full moon, which
threw a mild splendour upon the summits, shone with yet brighter
radiance, reflected by the water in strong contrast with the broad,
dark shadow of the hills, which lay on the banks and part of the
stream. Ascending an eminence, on the Caernarvon side above
the vale, I obtained, in succession, a fine view of Moel Hebog,
Dinas Emrys, and the lakes and falls at the opening of the three
valleys, all clearly yet softly illumined by moon and starlight, and
gradually expanding as I approached nearer to the majestic
Snowdon. Though differing in character, this view was not

* Among these he never for a moment forgot tlie primary duty of a host, having
modelled his conduct, it seemed to me, on (he maxims of Lord Chesterfield — especially
the ' Suaviter in modo, fortiter in re ;' fair speech and good bright wine ; or if you like
it better — an excellent dish well served up. A breakfast, for instance — excellent tea and
coflfee, fresh salmon-trout hot, a fine lobster, mountain-mutton, ham, and eggs ! But it
is wholly impossible, as I found it, to do justice to such a subject.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 15:]

surpassed for splendour and variety by the moonlight scene I had
beheld from the pass of Llanberis.

High as my expectations had been, they were at length more
than realised; for the sudden view of Vale Gwynant, bursting
full upon me in the radiant beauty of such a night, was one of the
most wildly picturesque I had ever beheld. It seemed well
denominated at the moment the Vale of Waters, — the most lovely
of all Snowdon, — comprehending within itself some or other
charm peculiar to all its less favoured sisters. As magnificent as
beautiful, at no hour could it have been seen under a more
favourable aspect — in its richest autumnal hues and softest touches
of the season's fall. The majestic calm and beauty of the hills
appeared mirrored in the waters at their feet, which glowed with
that mellow radiance never seen by day; while afar off the music
of the flashing falls alone broke on the deep solitude and silence of
the night. Innumerable mild and variegated hues, caught from the
serene refulgent skies, contrasted with the dusky shadows of the
rocks, painting every object, — now bright, half hidden, or deeply
obscured, — some changing feature continually surprising the eye.
And soon, to the eastward, where the mountain begins to recede,
came a bolder stream of light, through the opening which revealed
the distant peaks of Snowdon, arrayed in all the richness of rainbow
hues, from the deepest purple to those gray, brown, and darkening
masses which invest the foreground and the base.

The streaks of dawn were just beginning to glimmer in the
east, when I betook myself to a cottage in a secluded little nook
at the foot of a hill; and there, for once in my life, I proved
the truth, that the hardy peasant's couch is softer than any bed
of down to the repose won by toil, and that no refreshment is
so sweet as that offered by nature to those who know how to
appreciate it.

Under no aspect can lake and mountain scenery be viewed to
more advantage than in the glow of a clear autumnal night. There
is something mournful in its mellow beauty and deep repose, though

V

154 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

full of peace, which soothes the imagination; nor are its softer lights
and shadows — its dim, undefined outlines — a less pleasing relief to
the eye. The emblem of a more perfect rest, however sad the
thoughts it often inspires, they have that in them more consoling
and even refreshing to the miud than the forced smiles or the
boisterous mirth and gayeties of the world. It is the melancholy
charm we feel on beholding the prison of Bonnivard from the
moon-lit waters of Chillon, — the tombs of the great reformers and
benefactors of our race, — or the castellated ruins which frown on us
like spectres from the banks of the Rhine ; it is the same feeling
which attracts our steps to the spots sacred to genius or martyred
worth, and one of the noblest enjoyments of travel; and it is,
perhaps, derived in part from the consciousness of our transitory
and imperfect being.

CHAPTER XI.

THE ULVUER HILI.S, TIIIFAEN MOUNTAIN, LAKE OGWEN, LLYN IDWALL, AND NANT

FRANGON.

Here rivers rushing from the upland lake,
With distant roar on rural stillness break ;
Now slow, serene, the placid currents creep.
Now roll terrific from the threatening steep ;
P While rills unnumbered fill the fluid train,

And proudly roll with Ogwen to the main.

Lloyd.

The next morning I pursued my excursion up the narrow vale
watered by the Colwyn, and, through a wildly variegated land-
scape, came to the lakes near the foot of Mynydd Mawr, a vast
precipice, presenting its bold, picturesque outline against the skies;
it now threw its broadest shadow over hill, and rock, and vale,
while the deep, clear waters of the neighbouring lakes, under
the passing shadow of the clouds, — dispersing before the glowing
sun, — produced a strangely varied and most pleasing effect.
Proceeding on my right along the stupendous base of Snowdon,
where the path to its loftiest summit first appears, I rambled
towards the romantic Cw^ellyn,* known to have been long in
possession of a family of the same name now extinct.

Through the opening of the expansive hills, which here approach
nearer to each other, the sun, pouring a richer flood of light,
threw fresh lustre on every object around; and the impression.

* Celebrated of old for the surpassing flavour of its char ; ami, like most of the lakes
and streams round Beddgelert, affording admirable scope for the genius of the angler.

156 WANDERINGS THUOUCiH NOUTH WALES.

after the splendid night-scenes I had witnessed, was as vivid as
it was dazzUng to the sight. On my left rose Mynydd Mawr,
wild and precipitons in its aspect — seeming yet vaster than it
is, from its peculiar half-circular form. Moel Eilan, hardly
inferior in majesty, but clothed in more light and verdant colours,
presented no less marked a contrast ; while not far beyond lay
Bettws Garmon, its pretty village and antique church, where, as
about Beddgelert, green sloo})ing meadows and pleasant streams
unite the milder features of landscape with the vast and sombre
hills.

Returning in the afternoon to my favourite inn, I was glad to
retire early to repose. The rain had wet me through during my
last walk, and I now felt extremely fatigued, cold, and shivering.

The church at Beddgelert is supposed to have been erected on
the site of an ancient Priory of Augustine Monks. These holy
fathers, it further appears, belonged to that class of monks — assu-
redly the most sociable — called Gilbertines, and consisted of
persons of both sexes, who resided under the same roof, divided,
however, by a wall ; and there is a piece of gi'ound, not far from
the spot, which still goes by the name of the Nun's Meadow. It
is conjectured that the antique arched door-ways, seen on one side
of the church, led to the monastery ; and that the old mansion-
house was the residence of the good prior, whose pious shade may
yet be observed, on the eve of solemn festivals, at the head of his
humbler brethren pacing the well-beaten and accustomed path.

Being desirous of obtaining admission to the interior, I looked
round and observed a little hunch-backed figure, with peculiar eyes
and white hair, looking intently at me, and making strong signs for
me to desist in trying to unfasten one of the doors. He had a huge
bunch of keys at his girdle, to which he pointed significantly, and
put his hand upon his pocket, with a broad grin which said, plainer
than any words, liere is the only legitimate way of entrance.
His long arms, his broad, stunted frame, and large feet and hands,
with a deep voice and deformed features, brought Scott's descrip-

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 157

tion of the ' Dwarf vividly to my mind, and this man seemed
to stand before me not a whit more amiable or engaging. But his
leathern belt and keys betokened his official character; and, with
the proviso that he should walk before me, — for, in the sea-faring
phrase, I could not fancy ' the cut of his jib,' — he brandished the
church-key with an air of exultation, as if in all the joyous fore-
taste of clutching a sexton's fee. But I had almost as well have
spared my pains and my pocket; for the interior of this loftiest
church of Snowdonia, as Mr. Pennant designates it, has nothing
half so conspicuous as the names of some rich pew-proprietors, ten
times repeated, with a large tablet commemorating their Christian
generosity in apportioning the remaining space to the use of the
poor. On the east side the window, consisting of three narrow
slips, gives it an antique air, and there are a few curious vestiges
of fret- work. An adjoining chapel is supported by two plain
pillars and gothic arches; and we are informed by Rymer, that the
church originally was founded by Llewellyn, to commemorate the
preservation of his son, and as some atonement for slaying his
preserver, (the faithful greyhound), from whose name and tomb,
tradition assures us, the village received its name. How beautifully
the entire incidents to which it refers, — the noble picture of the
chase, — the contrast of feelings, — the uncontrollable rage of the
father against his faithful dog, — the discovery, — and the grief of
Llewellyn, — have been illustrated by Mr. Spencer, in his admirable
ballad, I need not here remind the reader.

My walks among the Snowdon hills are part of the most
agreeable recollections of my life. Although years had elapsed
since I last beheld the scenes amidst which I now wandered,
the impression on my imagination was as pleasing and exciting
as it had ever been. The love of coast and mountain scenery,
imbibed during an early period of my boyhood, required not, in
maturer years, the spell of historical association, or of yet wilder
tradition, to give force to the sentiment; and if I was then an
enthusiast for pedestrian rambles, I was still as eager to pursue

158 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

them for the more invigorating delight they ever afforded me, and
the energy of mind and frame which, after a slight seasoning, I
invariably found them to impart. I had this time twice traversed
the greater mountains of this singularly picturesque region, and
my desire of exploring fresh paths and trying longer excursions
was unabated, till I began to think as lightly of accomplishing
twenty to thirty miles before evening as I had, at one period,
thought of four or five.

Even when reposing in the pleasant sequestered valleys, sur-
rounded by the romantic mountains, breathing the deep calm
which seems peculiar to the solitude of Beddgelert, the thought
of a more extended route over the Glyder hills — of the fine
views around the lakes Cader and Cwellyn, — and the yet wilder
passes of the mountains, soon detei-mined me to take this route
towards Anglesey, in order that I might not lose the opportunity
of again observing the splendid scenery round the Ogwen lake,
and the dark rocky valley of Frangon.

On my way, these presented themselves to view a succession
of all those nobler features of landscape which I had not before
seen under the same points of view. From the summit of the
Great Glyder, I marked the scenes through which I had passed
on the previous days, spread on every side in novel beauty and
magnificence. To the west lay the vale and extensive lakes of
Llanberis ; more near the barren tract of Waun Oer and the
Lesser Glyder, — on one side the towering precipice of Clogwyn-du
overhanging the dark Llyn Idwall, the deep fissured rock of Twll-
du, the strangely indented Trifaen, the massy Carnedds of David
and Llewellyn ; and below the yawning chasm of Bcnglog opening
into Nant Frangon, and the Ogwen pouring its waters into the
deep glens below.

The surface of the ground upon which I stood, — the summit of
the Glyder Fawr, — had a most singular appearance. It seemed as
if it had been washed by a tremendous sea ; the stones lay loose,
and strewn at hazard as on some wild coast; the rocks, bare, clo-

M.

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WANDERINGS TIIUOUGII NORTH WALES. 150

ven, and jagged, lay crossing each other in different directions;
while the huge, pointed Trifaen, with its sharp, angular projections,
height above height, seemed like some huge monster with human
aspect strangely distorted, scowling upon the Carnedd y Gwynt,
the Shepherd's Hill of Storms. And well, at the moment, appeared
this desert tract of Snowdon to have been thus designated, as I
marked the traces of the tempest's far and fierce career around and
on all sides, with the naked peaks that reared their grey crests to
the clouds. I passed the pool called Llyn y Cwm,* and over the
chilly mountain-tract of Waun Oer, through the steep, broken
descent into Cwm Bochlwyd, and thence to the Ogwen lake, to
mark the stern character of the scenery round Vale Frangon.

No where in the region of the higher hills had I observed deeper
traces of the flood and the tempest than amidst these tremendous
barriers of steep rock and precipice which bid defiance to the
steps of the most adventurous traveller. I was particularly struck
with the bleak and stormy character of the scenery around Lake
Idwall, singularly situated in a hollow of the mountain summit.
Restless as the sea, and fiercely swept by the autumnal blasts, as I
passed the lone and savage spot, its aspect fell chill upon the
spirits, and I felt how truly the popular feeling, which seldom errs,
had given to this gloomy region the marked appellations of the
* Cold Mountain Waste,' and the ' Shepherd's Hill of Storms.'

Nor has popular tradition failed to throw round it the spell of
superstitious terror, of heroic adventure, and romance. The moun-
tain tenants in passing by the hollow of the lake, and beneath the
beetling precipice of Castel y Geifr — the Fortress of the Goats —
carefully shun the spot infamous for the murder of the young
prince Idwall by the hands of his treacherous guardian ; for it is
believed, that his unappeased spirit is yet heard wailing in the

* This small and singular lake is mentioned by Giraldus as being distinguished for its
different kinds of fish,— trout, perch, &c. 'all of which,' adds the curious chronicler,
' have got no left eye.' It is rather unfortunate that this odd monocular tribe has left no
living descendant to support the assertion.

IGO WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

storm, or throwing a darker shadow over the black precipice of
Twll-du.*

Situated in the very gorge of the craggy and beethng heights,
and now restlessly heaving under the autumnal gales, which came
whistling through the mountain hollows, the aspect of the lake, with
the sweeping falls of the Benglog, had a strangely wild and sombre
appearance, and produced a corresponding feeling in the mind.
It was a combination of the picturesque and terrible, not unsuited
in its sternest mood to the genius of Salvator ; and had the foot
of Wilson penetrated these grander recesses of the Caernarvon
hills, the noble taste of that enthusiast of nature must have seized
some of its features for his scarcely less divine landscapes. Here
darkly rushed the river of the lake ; and there the antique bridge,
the wooded abyss, the picturesque coloured rocks, and the Trifaen,
with its giant-semblance of the human features ; and through the
terrific chasm below, the Ogwenf pouring in three foaming cataracts
down heights of above a hundred feet into the green spreading
meadows below. No one can imagine all these wildly blending
into one picture, — each calculated to rivet the eye of the true
painter, — clothed in the rich variegated hues I then beheld them.

While exploring the magnificent scenery about Vale Frangon,
I did not forget to mark, with the reverence due to genius and
patriotic worth, the retreat of the bard of Snowdon, Rhys the

* In other words, the Devil's Kitchen, — a horrid chasm in the centre of a tremendous
precipice, extending in length about a hundred and fifty yards, nearly one hundred in
depth, and only six wide. It is open in a perpendicular line to the surface of the moun-
tain. Among the surrounding rocks may be found the following plants, — namely, Gallium
boreale, Plantago maritima, Arenaria verna, Adoxa moschatellina, Thalictrum alpinum,
Rhodiola rosea, Asplenium viride, Polypodium phegopteris, Rumex digynus, Gnaphalium
dioicum, and in the upper part of the chasm, Saxil'raga nivalis.

t The river and the romantic falls of the Ogwen both spring I'rom the same lake,
which is wild and picturesque in the extreme. It abounds in a peculiar and excellent
kind of trout, of a bright yellow while in the water, and a fine salmon colour when drest.
No where, for a short period of the season, can the angli-r select better sport. The bolder
botanist, too, may, with equal advantage and delight, explore the region of the Glyder
hills. They abound in rare ])lants, heaths, and mosses, and among the latter is the Lichen
Idandicus, found so useful in pulmonary and other complaints.

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WANDERINGS THROUGH NOinil WALES. lOl

Red, the favorite companion and staunch adherent of the son <jf
Robert ap Meredydd, one of the followers of the great Glendower,
whose fortunes, through evil and through good report, he cheerfully
partook.

It is situated in a deep hollow, which appears to have been thus
formed by the accidental position of the falling of the adjacent
rocks. The poet's nuise must have been, indeed, a shrew, and his
satire poignant and cruel in the extreme, to have brought an enemy
upon his track into so desolate and almost appalling a sanctuary as
he and his brave chieftain selected in their evil day.

I was not a little interested, also, while passing through these
wilder Snowdon-hills, in comparing the bold, picturesque sketches
of the enthusiastic artist with the real magnificent objects before
my eyes. The subjects, especially those taken in the vicinity of
the valley and lake Idwall, struck me by their faithful and
characteristic delineation : and I could not mistake the sites, as I
took my way into the pass and deep valley of Nant Frangon.
Here I entered the road by the terrific Benglog, where the once
dreadful horse-path, mentioned by Mr. Pennant, is now, by the
industry and ingenuity of man, exchanged for the safe and
admirable highway to Holyhead, which presents some of the
grandest features of Alpine scenery.

But soon my approach towards the Menai, and the level tracts
of Anglesey, reminded me of the extensive range of country that
was yet to be traversed; and bending my steps down the heights,
I pursued my route towards Bangor, as will further appear in
another chapter.

w

CHAPTER XII.

LLANDFCAI, FENRHYN CASTLE, BANGOR, MENAl BRIDGE, CAERNARVON, &C.

Now twilight draws her shadowy curtain round.

And all the landscape wears a softer hue,
As if in grief; and e'en the plaintive sound

Of some lone bird, who carols an adieu
To parting day's last lingering tint of blue —

All touch the heart, awakening pensive thought.
And bring the absent or the dead to view

In colours fresh, by faithful memory wrought.

As if to cheat us with their forms she sought.

Lady Blessington.

In no part of the magnificent road to Holyhead was I so much
impressed with the savage and romantic character of the scenery,
as in passing through the tremendous glen called the ' Hollow of
the Beavers.' By descending from the road a little way, the view
presented itself full of picturesque grandeur and beauty, — the
lower part of the vale combining features of the splendid and the
terrific. Huge masses of rock strewed the foreground ;* the green
meadow overhung by lofty mountains ; the bright river meandering
towards the sea ; the waters of the lakes rushing down the steep
into their black and caverned bed, with the distant prospect, and

* ' In 1685, part of a rock, forming one of the impending cliffs, became so Undermined
by wind and rain, that, losing its hold, it fell in several immense masses, and, in its
paissage down a steep and craggy cliff, dislodged some thousands of other stones. The
main fragment continued its motion through a small meadow, and rested on the farther
side of the river Ogvven. In the winter of 1831, another part of the rock gave way, when
upwards of one thousand tons fell from near the summit of Benglog, a little below the
Ogwen cataracts ; part rolling straight across the road fell into the valley and river in the
bottom ; while another part, having acquired a less momentum, rested on the road. One
hundred labourers were engaged to clear the surface.' — Hemingway.

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WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 1 f).")

the gloomy horrors of the mountains far around me, — spite of the
genius of improvement, and the triumphs of science on every side,
— left upon the mind an indelible impression of this wild region
of the British Alps.

. Agreeably contrasting with its more savage features, I observed
the elegant mansion of Ogwen 13ank, surrounded with beautiful
plantations, near the rudest site of all this romantic valley. But,
however bleak in external character, commerce, within late years,
has in reality transformed these mountain-wastes into sources of
industry, civilisation, and public prosperity. Under the auspices of
the Penrhyn family, and their intelligent and nobleminded successor,
Mr. Pennant, taking advantage of every new discovery, the vast
property on which I now set foot had been nearly doubled in value;
and I found the surrounding population, who were formerly steeped
in penury and ignorance to the very lips, supplied not only with the
means of livelihood but of true civilisation.

On my way along the mail road, — almost a continued descent
through the Caernarvonshire hills to Bangor, — I was surprised by
the rapid increase of population, houses, and villages on the line of
the mountain-quarries, within the last thirty years, and by the
marks of improvement and intelligence spreading on every side.
One serious drawback alone presented itself, in the endless num-
ber of public houses, ' thick as autumnal leaves,' strewn over the
labouring districts. Every other house in some places could
boast its sign, from ' Uther's Dragon' and ' Prince Llewellyn' to
' Glendower's Head' and the ' Meredith Arms,' giving a ludicrous
and grotesque appearance to the abodes, such as I could not at
all admire. In a moral view, at least, these miners' cottages,
with their gaily bedaubed lures to intemperance, looked more
like ' painted sepulchres ' in the eye of reason than the dwellings
of peace and labour. A mission of one or more of our new
Temperance Societies would find occupation in many parts of
North Wales, and in none more than among the beer-shops in
the mining districts.

164 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

The extensive slate quarries in this neighbourhood are conducted
on an admirable and enlarged scale, with the facilities afforded by
railways and improved modes of working, and seem to have wrought
almost a magic effect on the line of the great roads, covering the
surface of the soil no less with commodious mansions than with
labourers' huts, — with rising towns and rural hamlets. Nor was I
less interested by the ingenuity shown in the construction of the
mills, and the different processes reduced to the nicest certainty
of mechanic principles, in particular as regards the slate quarries.
No one can behold them without admiration of the powers of
British skill and industry. I was informed that upwards of two
hundred tons of slates are daily conveyed by the rail-way from
the quarries of Cae Braich y Cafn, in Nant Frangon, to Port
Penrhyn, near Bangor; and that nearly two thousand workmen
have constant employment.

In my ramble through the romantic scenery continually opening
upon the view by Llandegai church, I passed the monument of
Archbishop Williams, which represents him kneeling at an altar
in his arch-episcopal robes. No finer picture of fallen ambition
could be held up to public view ; no juster retribution upon a
career of pride, overweening confidence, and worldly splendour.

* Was it for this thy lofty genius soar'd,
Caress'd by monarchs and by crowds adored?
For this thy hand o'er rivals could prevail,
Grasping by turn the crosier and the seal ;
Who dared on Laud's meridian power to frown.
And on aspiring Buckingham look down ! '

But it is always melancholy to contemplate great talents, courage,
and energies almost invincible, not directed to the improvement
and welfare of mankind.

No where in my tour had I experienced more pleasing surprise
than on entering the parish, and, in particular, the neat, clean
village of Llandegai. Surrounded by noble hills, insulated but
agreeably situated, it presented a marked contrast in its modern

^

^SsK

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 1G5

improvement, and consequent industry and prosperity, to most
Welsh towns and liamlets I had seen, bearing pleasing witness
to the intelligence and public spirit of its wealthy proprietor.
Penrhyn, with its sweep of new plantations, excellent roads, rising
farms, and plain but commodious dwellings, with the fresh stir
of life every where observable, gave evidence of a younger and
happier Wales — a title better bestowed, by the combined genius
of science and commerce, than the political ones of the ' young
France ' or ' Italy.'

I stopped at one of the new-built cottages opposite a mill, — the
first erected of the now flourishing villages inhabited by the fast
thriving and peaceful community of this happy district — an example
of how much wealth, when directed by intelligence and right feel-
ing, can accomplish. It gave me pleasure to mark this comer-
stone of the future welfare and regeneration of an extensive and
populous parish, a pleasure, I may add, far higher and truer than
if I had witnessed the foundation of the most gorgeous of royal
palaces.

I had that afternoon passed through a succession of mountain
scenery the most solitary, wildly beautiful, and magnificent, — where
the towering cliffs rose almost perpendicularly to a height that
baffled the eye, which now rested on objects as pleasingly con-
trasted, conveying feelings of relief and repose to the mind. The
whole landscape blended well with the moral pleasure which the
first sight of the village inspired. The sun was setting in calm
and beauty ; the river Ogwen murmured at my feet, and the rich
valleys began to remind me of England, and its fertile tracts of
wood and dale. On one side appeared Penrhyn Castle, towering
boldly above the surrounding woods, with the waters of the Menai
and the Anglesey hills in the distance. Upon my right, the moun-
tains, expanding into a bold curve, brought the extreme base of
Penmaen Mawr into fuller relief, while the sound of the rapid
stream, rushing through the black and rugged rocks beyond, fell
hoarsely upon the ear.

16G WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

The princely estates of Penrhyn comprehend a large portion
of the parish of Llandegai,* which extends above fifteen miles from
the straits of the Menai into the Snowdon hills. The present
mansion is believed to have been erected on the site of a former
palace, which belonged to Roderic Molwynog, a Prince of Wales,
who flourished about the year 7'20. Commemorated by bards of
old, as well as in modern song, the ancient palace, the castle,
and more modern structure, are alike associated with interesting
events and recollections.

' Abode of ancient chiefs, of bards the theme,
Here princely Penrhyn soars above the stream !
Here Cambria opes her tome of other days,
And, with maternal pride, the page displays.'

The noble example of the late Lord Penrhyn was not lost upon
its present possessor, and to the numerous alterations and improve-
ments already made, Mr. Pennant has long been engaged in
adding all that is requisite for the completion of a splendid baro-
nial residence. The whole is conducted on a magnificent scale, in
the noblest style of castellated architecture, ably blending with its
old English character and appearance a study of all the modern
interior accommodations and comforts. The new edifice, con-
structed of Mona marble, presents an extensive range of buildings,
surmounted by lofty towers, some of which are circular, while the
keep and another of the principal towers are square, with the addi-
tions of angular turrets. Partially screened by the surrounding
woods, the effect, as you approach, is at once picturesque and
imposing; and the elegant and superb character of the internal
decorations, chiefly upon a ground-work of the finest marble,
corresponds with its outward magnificence. The whole of the

* The church, it may be observed, is built in the Gothic style, having the form of a cross
with a tower in the centre. It is sujjposed to have been erected in the reign of
Edward III. Besides the monuments to the Lord Keeper and Archbishop Williams, it
contains also a beautiful tribute to the late Lord and Lady Penrhyn ; the work of West-
macot.

#

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WANDERINGS THUOUGII NORTH WALES. Ifi7

accessories — the lodges and entrances to the park, with its walls
and massive gateways — arc on the same noble and extensive plan,
comprising a circuit of not less than seven miles. An elegant
chapel, hot and cold baths upon the beach, out-buildings, &c.
altogether serve to convey an idea of some royal establishment,
rather than the quiet abode of a wealthy commoner of Great
Britain.*

In point of situation Penrhyn Castle certainly stands unri-
valled, commanding views of the bay and town of Beaumaris,
Bangor, the Fryars, Baron-hill, and the greater part of Anglesey,
with Priestholme Island, Ormeshead, Penmaen Mawr, and the
Caernarvonshire hills.

Bangor, consisting chiefly of one long street, is not so much
distinguished for the beauty of its external appearance, as for its
numerous local advantages and attractions, affording a continual
variety of country and sea excursions.f The prospect from Garth
Point presents a rich combination of every variety of coast and
mountain scenery, — noble sea views, and landscapes picturesquely
intermingled with towns and villas — castle towers and spires far and
near, giving an agreeable relief to the general open character and
sublimity of the prospect. On the left, the Anglesey coast, with
plantations and pretty cottages — the church and castle of Beau-
maris,— the noble bay covered with vessels, — the elegant seat of

• Among the other heir-looms of Penrhyn is to be seen a Hirlas, or drinking horn, of
the hero Piers Gruffydd, in the shape of an ox's horn, ornamented and suspended by a
silver chain — curious as a memorial of ancient manners. The initials of the chiefs name
and family are engraved at the end.

t In addition to the many interesting objects which before engaged the attention of
visitors, a number of new roads and pathways have more recently been opened for the
greater accommodation of the public. As regards commercial business, at the egress
of the river Cegid into the Menai lies Port Penrhyn, now capable of admitting vessels
of many tons burthen. The quay is upwards of three hundred yards long, and an
immense tonnage of slates is shipped from it to all parts of the world.

The Penrhyn Arms, at Bangor, is a princely establishment, and with the other
excellent accommodations for the public, leave nothing to be desired by the most
fastidious traveller. What a contrast to the place described by Dr. Johnson !

1G8 WANDERINGS THROUGH NOllTH WALES.

Sir R. Bulkeley; and far to the north-cast, Priestholme island, and
the variegated green sea, — to the riglit, the Great Omie's Head
stands prominent, extending its rugged bulwark into the sea at the
entrance of the Menai straits and the Penmaen mountain; while
to the south-east tower the hills of Snowdon, — altogether offering
a coup iVixil singularly grand.

The cathedral of Bangor has been too often and fully described
to call for much comment, being already well known to most
English tourists and the readers of tours. It has nothing elegant
or picturesque in its appearance. Heavy and low, it has under-
gone repeated rebuildings and repairs, having been subject to all
the vicissitudes of war and fierce passions. The see chiefly owed its
wealth and immunities to Anian, a bishop who lived in the reign
of Edward I., and who appears to have been a court favourite, for
he had the honour of christening the first English Prince of Wales.
The loss of its temporalities, confiscated during the wars, was
subsequently moie than retrieved by the enormous grants of land,
manors, and ferries lavishly bestowed by the Conqueror, at the
expense of the vanquished chiefs and people.

From no spot can the traveller take so many varied and pleasant
excursions, both by land and w-ater, as from this antique city; and
I availed myself of its admirable situation to the utmost, for
exploring the beauties of the surrounding country. Within a
moderate distance lie Conway, Beaumaris, Aber, Amlwch, Plas
Newydd, — affording the happiest interchange of scenery, — the port,
the castle, and the island, — the great quarries, and Snowdon itself,
— each offering objects of interest to keep the mind agreeably
employed. On foot, on horseback, or in my favourite sails about
the coast, I found inexhaustible sources of pleasure, and could
have given months instead of days, — had they been mine, — to
Bangor and its vicinity.

The Menai straits generally present numerous objects to
interest the visitor. They are not twenty miles long, yet the
public are accommodated by six ferries, the widest of which is that

Pr^

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WANDERINOS TIIUOUOII NORTH WALES. IGO

from Beaumaris to Abcr. Besides these, for general convenience,
and to prevent the loss of life and delay which often occurred in
stormy weather, that wonder of the world, the Suspension Bridge,
was erected. The first stone was laid in 1820; one of the main
chains was carried over in 1825; and it was opened in 1826. It
appears considerably more than one thousand feet in length, and
in height one hundred feet above high water mark. This bridge
has been so often and fully described as to call for few additional
remarks. It is now sulHcient that the passing traveller record the
impression which this magnificent proof of human ingenuity and
power produces upon the eye and upon the mind. Seen, as I
approached it, in the light of a clear autumnal sun-set, which threw
a splendour over the wide range of hills beyond, and the sweep of
richly variegated groves and plantations which covered their base —
the bright river — the rocky, picturesque foreground — villas, spires,
and towers here and there enlivening the prospect, — it appeared
more like the work of some great magician than the result of
man's skill and industry.

An intelligent tourist,* in his 'Guide to Snowdonia,' presents the
following graphic account of a visit to this monument of the genius
of Telford : — ' Having landed, by means of boats, upon the Angle-
sey side, we proceeded to the bridge, the visiting of which is a new
era in the lives of those who have not before had that pleasure, and
is a renewed luxury to those who have seen it again and again.
Our party walked over the bridge slowly, because there was
something to be admired at every step: — the effect of a passing
carriage ; the vibration caused even by a hand applied to the sus-
pending rods ; the depth to the level of the water ; the fine view
of the Straits in both directions ; the lofty pillar erected in honour
of Lord Anglesey ; the diminutive appearance of persons on the
shore ; the excellence and strength of the workmanship ; the beauty
of the arches over the road through the suspension piers, and the

* jMr. John Smith.
W

170 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

echo in them, — all conspired to delight and to detain us. Many
of our party went down the steep bank to the foot of the bridge,
from which point, certainly, the best view is to be had of the whole
structure, inasmuch as by being in contact, as it were, with its pro-
portions on terra Jirma, a better idea can be formed of its real, and
indeed, wonderful dimensions. We actually lingered about the
spot, careless of time, or of aught but the scene we were contem-
plating. There is so much magnificence, beauty, and elegance in
this grand work of art, that it harmonises and accords perfectly
with the natural scenery around, and though itself an object of
admiration, still in connexion it heightens the effect of the general
view.'

My ride along the banks of the Menai, upon leaving Bangor,
on my way to Caernarvon, was among the pleasantest of my
little trips, and the points of view in which I caught the suc-
cession of hills and wooded vales on one side, and the rich level
tracts upon the other, were wholly different from any in which I
had before observed them. In a space of not more than nine
miles I was presented with a combination of striking and pic-
turesque objects, under the varying lights and shadows of a rich
autumnal evening, which made my entrance into Caernarvon,
without reference to its magnificent monuments, as new and
pleasing as if I had then beheld it for the first time.

The evening shadows, half shrouding its massive bulwarks, as
I drew nigh, gave an air of vastness and gloom to its wide-spreading
walls and heavy towers, which, with the silence of aj)proaching
night, the far misty bay, and the dinniess of surrounding objects,
had a peculiarly sombre and imposing effect.

Noble and beautiful, and as admirably situated, the Caer yn
Arvon, (or strong-walled town) is supposed to have sprung from
the famed Segontium — not a mile distant — of the conquering
Roman. For its more ample and magnificent feudal structure, —
almost terrible to the eye, — it is indebted to the first Edward, who
raised the colossal castle — as if in derision of the poor tenure of all

vt;-j.t ji^ liii" JK.U-i. J 'i!).>

I

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 171

sovereign power — near the ruins of the great Roman station. The
principal seat of the colony, it received its name from the river
Seiont, which, flowing from the extensive lake of Llanberis, passes
under the walls, and falls into the Menai not far from the castle.
Of an oblong shape, it covered a space of six acres, and adjoined
to it was the massive fort, which occupied not less than one acre.
On two sides the walls, yet almost entire, rise to a height of eleven
feet, and are six in thickness. The remains of a chapel, founded
by Helen, daughter of Octavius, Duke of Cornwall, and a well
bearing her name, are still among the wrecks of time, although not
readily discovered even by the observant stranger.

The last Llewellyn dates from it a charter, granted to the Priory
of Penmon in the year 1221 ; and soon after his conquest, Edward
began the stupendous pile which served less to overawe the Welsh
than for a magnificent ruin and a modern wonder. In 1284 a
war-tax was imposed upon the people, when they seized upon the
constable. Sir Roger de Pulesdon, and hanged him from one of
the loop-holes. And Madoc, son of the fallen prince, showed his
respect for the royal fortress by carrying the town at the point of
the sword, massacring the English and setting fire to the place.
King Edward in person was compelled, at the head of his army, to
repossess himself of the strongest of his military stations. In 1402
it was besieged by Glendower ; and was taken and held by the
Parliament at the period of the civil wars. A battle was fought
at Llandegai, in which the Royalists were put to the rout, and
the whole of North Wales was speedily brought under the authority
of Parliament.

Vast, irregular, and more shattered than its exterior grandeur
would lead us to suppose, this giant-fortress stretches far along the
west of the town, its broad spreading walls sunnounted at intervals
with octagonal towers. The extent of the courts, the gateways,
and the moat, bear equal witness to those noble proportions which
astonish the modern architect, as from its Eagle-turrets he com-
mands the whole of its magnificent area, and the wide sweeping
circuit of its walls.

172 WANDERlNfiS TIIKOHOH NOUTII WALES.

Opposite the massive Eagle tower, in which the unfortunate
Edward II. was born, is the ' Queen's Gate,'* which had two
portcullisses that communicated with a drawbridge across the moat.
Over the embattled parapet are seen the turrets rising majestically
above the solitary ruins, bounded on two sides by the water ; the
third bears traces of a large ditch ; on the north-east side is a deep
well nearly filled up, with a round tower contiguous to it, appa-
rently the ancient dungeon. The exterior, and especially the main
entrance, has an air of forlorn grandeur, blended with massy strength,
which must, at all times, excite admiration and awe in the beholder.
The area within is irregularly oblong, and appears to have been
divided into an outer and inner court.

The state apartments appear to have been spacious, commodious,
and handsomely ornamented ; the windows wide, and enriched
with elegant tracery. The form is polygonal, though the exterior
of the edifice presents a complete square. The floors and stair-
cases are already considerably injured — in many parts wholly
demolished. A gallery extended round the entire fortress, to serve
as a means of communication in times of danger and during a
siege. It lay close to the outer walls, and was provided with narrow

• So called from the circumstance of Eleanor, the consort of Edward, — and who was
brought, through the inclemency of a hard winter, to bear aprince for the Welsh, — having
first entered the castle through this gate.

' Edward had annexed Wales to the kingdom of England, but the Welsh were dis-
pleased with this usurpation, and determined to yield no obedience to any prince but of
their own nation and language. Edward thought of an expedient for cozening them.
He ordered Eleanor, in the depth of winter, out of England to Caernarvon Castle, there
to lie in. Edward then summoned all llio barons and chief persons throughout Wales
to meet him at Rhyddlan, to consult about the welfare of their country. Ho told the
Welsh nobility that they had often wished for a prince of their own country, who might
rule over them. They promised to allow of such an ai)])ointmcn(, and to obey such a
personage. Edward then mentioned his oion son Edward, recently born, maintaining
the terms of the engagement to have been strictly comi)lied with, for his son was born in
Wales, could speak no English, and his character irreproachable. Though born in 1284,
it was not before he had reached his Kith year that Prince Edward received the reluctant
fealty of his deluded subjects. The eldest sons of the English monarchs have subse-
quently been styled Prince of Wales, and, indei)endcntly of birth, been created so by
letters patent.' — Nicholson.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 178

slips, adapted for stations, from which to annoy an enemy with
arrows or other missiles as occasion might require. But its time-
worn and ivy-covered bulwarks are now fast yielding, like the
interior, to the assaults of time. Some years ago the Eagle tower,
struck by lightning, was split down several yards from the summit,
and large masses of stone came thundering down — giving it still
more the aspect of a splendid ruin.

From the summit the traveller may behold a prospect of sur-
passing interest and beauty, — the isle of Anglesey, with its plains,
farms, and villas, — the swelling Menai, — the romantic hills, — and
the blue and spacious bay, with the sea stretching far beyond.

A noble terrace, extending from the quay to the north-end
of the walls, offers a delightful walk, and presents a variety
of interesting objects around the port, which is daily rising into
greater importance by receiving and dispensing the fruits of
industry and commerce.

The harbour and the pier have both undergone very great
improvement, and ships of considerable burthen can now come up
along-side the quay. A patent slip for repairing vessels has also
recently been laid down. There is an extensive trade carried on
with Liverpool, Dublin, Bristol, &c., besides a lucrative coast trade,
exchanging the invaluable mineral substances for timber and other
articles. Slates are brought here as to the general depot from all
the great Welsh quarries ; and the country people of all ranks
resort hither, as the best and cheapest market, from a consider-
able distance.

The market-house, erected by the corporation, the hotel by the
Marquis of Anglesey, with hot and cold baths, a billiard room, and
a number of excellent inns, render the modern town as elegant and
commodious a place of residence as the most fastidious or luxurious
nabob, — to say nothing of hardy Welshmen and pedestrian ram-
blers,— could possibly desire.

CHAPTER XIII.

IIOLYUEAD, SOUTH STACK LIGHT HOUSE, UEAUMAKIS, &C.

Let us go round,
And let the sail be slack, the course be slow,
That at our leisure, as we coast alon^,',
We may contemplate, and from every scene
Receive its influence.

Rogers.

After enjoying myself a day or two at Caernarvon, I left that
retreat so particularly pleasant to the tourist, and proceeded across
the silvery Menai. 'Twas morning : the mist and broad shadows
were fast receding before the glories of the rising sun ; the moun-
tain sheep and cattle were creeping higher on the hills; while
all nature smiled around. On turning round, upon gaining an
elevated station, I observed again the range of the mighty Snow-
donian mountains, which, at that moment, appeared even more
majestic through the white vapours which rolled around them.

Not being able to procure any satisfactory information about the
tracts along the coast, which I was desirous of exploring, I walked
through a bridle-road till I came to a miserable inn, where I was
dissuaded, by mention of diihculties, from my purpose of taking
such a route as would present numerous marine views; and pro-
ceeded to Newborough, and over the Malldreath Sands to
Llanbeulan, where I entered the high road to Holyhead.

The following morning I took a view of this remarkable town
and islet, accompanied by the friend I had before accidentally
met in Caernarvonshire. Following the dii'cction of the veteran
Pemiant to obtain the most extensive view of it, I bent my way

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 175

to the summit of the head. At every step I observed evidences of
the rapid increase and prosperity of this once poor fishing village —
now spreading on every side, and supporting an active and flourish-
ing population. From the summit we had a complete view of the
promontory, and could mark its varying breadth and inequalities,
and its storm-indented appearance. It was approaching the hour
of high water, and I could hear the lashing of the waves upon the
precipices which tower sublimely above the ocean, and the scream
of the sea birds sailing around the tremendous caverns open to the
waters.

Far below me lay the spacious pier on the island of Ynys Halen,
with the light-house at the extremity ; the harbour with its crowd
of vessels and smaller craft in different stages of preparation ; and
close to the quay the Post Office Packet in busy preparation for
immediate sail. I was struck with the singular wildness and
variety of the prospect far over sea and land. The vast expanding
waters — the Skerry rocks — the lighthouses, and other objects of
interest, opened distinctly to the view.

After having breakfasted at the Royal Hotel,* where I had
taken up my quarters, and accompanied by my friend, I walked to
the pier, and was just in time to see a fine steamer dart boldly
forward, like some ocean-bird upon its wings, on her trip across the
channel. There is something almost startling in looking intently
on that strange unconscious power which produces the results of
living motion, with a beauty, majesty, and rapidity of action, with-
out any approach to violence or hurry. It is at such moments that
the light of modern science appears almost too dazzling to the
human eye. Having occasion to make some enquiries, I addressed
myself to an elderly gentleman, who was standing near me, and
who replied with such frank good nature and apparent intelligence,
that I was induced to make myself known to him. He proved to
be the Harbour Master, Captain Evans, who obligingly offered to

• A commodious and excellent inn, where civility, and attention, and good fare are
the ' order of the day.'

17G W.WDEHINGS TIIROUr.II NORTH WALES.

show us the light-house on the pier, and promised every facility in
his power for our inspecting the public works, &c. I shall not
easily forget his good nature and kindness, still less the true British
hospitality and obliging attentions shown me during my stay. I
cannot look back to those days without an emotion of grateful plea-
sure, which I feel it the bounden duty of ' a Wanderer,' so kindly
received by one to whom he was previously unknown, to put
upon record.

My attention was next directed to a capstan of great power,
for the use of His Majesty's packets and other vessels. The
foi-mer have never had occasion to employ it; but many largo
ships, by the aid of a plentiful supply of warps, have been brought
into the pier during heavy gales, evidently snatched from destruc-
tion by the prompt assistance thus rendered. On the south side
of the harbour I noticed a fine graving dock admirably constructed,
and one of the first in England. The bottom is convex ; the
drain water runs along the sides to the upper part and is pumped
out by a steam engine. There was also a diving-bell vessel at
work on the south pier, blasting rock under water ; a most useful
invention, by which all the pier wall has been erected in deep water.
It is employed also in examining the chains by which the buoys
along the harbour are moored, and for other equally useful pur-
poses. The anchorage ground outside the harbour having been
so much raked by use that anchors would not hold, several vessels
were in consequence lost. In 1831, a very strong chain of
three hundred feet in length was laid down across the entrance ;
so that when a vessel now casts anchor and does not hold,
she drives outwards until she grapples the chain. This plan has
been the means of saving a number of vessels, and none have been
on shore in the harbour since it was adopted.

The two islands at the entrance arc called Salt Island and
Parry's Island. The former is chiefly occupied by the General
Post Office, — and forms an extensive establishment for the fitting
out and repairs of the mail packets. It is connected with the

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 177

main by a swivel iron-bridge, which when open leaves a passage of
forty feet, and is found useful in keeping the harbour clear from
any deposit of the tide, and, particularly in easterly winds, in
affording egress to fishing and pilot boats. On the Salt Island, and
contiguous to the Pier, are the Custom House, the Harbour
Master's and resident Engineer's houses, and other respectable
residences.

At the entrance to the Pier, which extends one thousand feet in
length, and was built by Mr. Rennie, is a triumphal arch, raised
to commemorate the visit of his late Majesty, George IV., in
1821, on his way to Ireland. The King held a levee on board the
Royal yacht, and proceeded on a visit to the Marquis of Anglesey,
at Plas Newydd. Being detained on his return by boisterous
weather, his Majesty left the yacht, and embarked in the steam
packet Lightning, commanded by the late unfortunate Captain
Skinner, in which he proceeded across the channel. It is singular
that the monument of that estimable and noble-spirited officer
should now be seen not far from this very triumphal arch ; and
I could not pass by it, on entering the Head, without reflecting
on the solemn and sudden visitations of Providence, as exemplified
in his untimely end.*

The morning was now calm, the waters smooth and bright; but
I pictured to myself the advantages of the Pier Lighthouse when
the storm is up, — when the glorious beacon sends forth its refulgent
beams through the blackness of the tempest on the dark winter
nights. It is built of Moelfrd stone, a kind of marble, on an in-
verted arch, its base being six feet above high water ; and contains
twenty lamps and reflectors, exhibiting a strong white light in every
direction, elevated fifty or sixty feet above the sea. I noticed a

• That gallant officer was washed overboard, in an almost unaccountable manner, while
standing on his own vessel speaking to one of the sailors, who was carried away by the
same wave with his captain, and both instantly disappeared. I was informed that the
weather was not very boisterous, and that the accident was one of the most extraordinary
ever known in the annals of naval experience.

Y

178 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

lamp and reflector, placed opposite an aperture twenty feet below
the lantern, showing a red light. This is not seen by vessels until
they have cleared all the rocks outside, when it at once appears,
and the vessel alters her course, and runs for the Pier-head with
confidence. No accident has happened since this light was
exhibited.

I could not help observing the admirable arrangements to

secure expedition in the Packet service. Scarcely five minutes

now elapse, after the arrival of the mail coach, before the vessel is

under weigh. Nothing can surpass the facilities for the landing

and embarkation of passengers, horses, carriages, and goods. The

iron crane, with which this is effected, is managed with perfect

ease and safety. In thick weather the packets are guided by

signal guns and bells, which are so well arranged that sometimes

the Pier Lighthouse has been the first object seen after crossing the

channel from Dublin. During the tempestuous weather of last

winter, the London Mail, which arrives in Holyhead at eleven at

night, was in no instance delayed by the packet not sailing, which

was a common occurrence when the mails were conveyed by sailing

packets; and such was then the uncertainty of the voyage, that

passengers seldom embarked without providing sufficient stores for

three or four days. Now, however, the case is very different, as

the passage is accomplished in five hours and three quarters, and

with such uniform regularity that the arrival of the steam-packet from

Dublin can be calculated upon with as much certainty as that of

the London mail coach. The Post Office authorities deserve great

praise for the early introduction of steam-vessels on this station,

where they were the first, I understand, regularly employed during

the rough storms of the winter months, which, it was previously

imagined, they were not calculated to encounter. The order and

regularity with which this part of the Post Office establishment is

conducted, reflect great credit upon the industry and ability of

the government agent. Captain Goddard, to whom, I believe, its

efficiency is chiefly owing.

i

©

t5i -a

k

I

d

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 170

For want of a more extensive area of shelter, and deeper water,
great destruction of shipping has occurred on the rocks outside,
by vessels endeavouring to reach the Pier. Since 1811, thirty
ships have been on shore, nineteen of which were totally lost. Yet,
with the present limited space, above twelve hundred sail, of more
than one thousand tonnage, exclusive of the packets, have taken
shelter here during the last few years, driven in by storms and
adverse gales.

A plan has been proposed to make an outer harbour, sufficiently
spacious to admit merchant vessels and men-of-war at all times.
This would be a grand improvement; for the bay presents a fine
spacious opening, one half sheltered, with lights on each side of
its entrance. It is, moreover, centrally situated in St. George's
Channel, in the track of all its trade ; and presents the only
station from the Land's End to the Clyde, on the east side of the
channel (excepting Milford), to which vessels can approach when
the tide has considerably ebbed.

I trust the Commissioners will proceed with the proposed exten-
sion of the harbour without delay ; for the advantages in a local
and national view must be obvious to every one. It would become
the asylum-port of the channel, and afford an excellent station for
King's ships. Their communication with the Admiralty would be
most direct, and the vessels could readily proceed to sea, either by
the north or south channel. Here, too, the trade could rendezvous
in time of war, and it would prove a place of protection from
the enemy. But, at present, Holyhead offers the most inviting
point for an enemy's attack, as most of the merchant-ships pass
within a short distance of it, besides numerous steam packets,
coasting vessels, and traders.

Being a fine day I determined on inspecting the South Stack,*
an insulated rock, situated about four miles from Holyhead, on

* ' The traveller by day, who, in his passage up or down channel, nears the eastern
shores, must have observed a white tower, posted, like a sentinel, on the brow o (a low
hummock, apparently forming a projecting ledge from the seaward base of Caei gyl)i, or

180 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

which a conspicuous lighthouse is erected, through the zeal and
abihty of Captain Evans. Our little pinnace, with its white sail,
and manned by four stout seamen, was soon waiting to convey us
on our cruise. The atmosphere was clear, and the weather calm,
but accompanied by those sudden fresh breezes which advancing
autumn brings. The boat bore off the coast to the distance
required, drawing nearer the rocks, or receding at pleasure, to
gain as full and varied a view of the scene as possible. In wildness
and stern grandeur of aspect, no place, assuredly, can surpass this
portion of the Anglesey coast. About midway of the voyage we
proceeded with great difficulty ; calm as it appeared, owing to the
strong currents, we were soon obliged to lower sail, and take to
the oars with long and strong pulls.

As we advanced, the grand promontory, with its towering,
precipitous cliffs, its magnificent caverned rocks, and bleak in-
dented sides, appeared to the utmost advantage. The effect, as
we drew nearer and nearer within the verge of these tremendous
caverns, was appalling. At least, when we came under the black
shadows of the super-ambient rocks, and approached the dismal
chasms, and heard the wild, plaintive cry of the sea-birds, wheel-
ing above our heads, it was impossible not to feel sensations
equally novel and solemn. Grand receding arches of different

the mountain of Holyhead. On approaching still nearer, he will perceive that this hum-
mock is, in fact, an island, torn from the main mass, but connected therewith by a link,
at a distance resembling the gauze-work of a gossamer, which, in its fall, had accidcntly
caught upon the corresponding projections of the disjointed rocks. Let him look a little
longer, and he will now and then detect minute objects passing to and fro, and come to
the obvious conclusion, that this aerial pathway is neither more nor less than a connecting
ladder of accommodation formed by the hand of man. The speck by night, the white
tower by day, with its hummock and fairy bridge, comprise what is called the South Stack ;
and, taken altogether, it forms a prominent feature in the bold, romantic scenery of this
iron-bound coast, and combines so many objects worthy of notice, natural and artificial,
that, be the observer what he may, poet, philosopher, mechanist, or naturalist, he will find
wherewithal to excite his curiosity, and reward his laliour, in visiting a spot which has
not many rivals in its kind in the wide world. — Blackwood's Magazine, Feb. 1831 ;
• South Stack.' (Axcribed to the Rev. Edward Stanley, M.A., F.L.S., Rector of Alder -
ley.)

I

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 181

shapes, supported by pillars of rock, exhibit a strange magni-
ficence— a wild and savage beauty, mingled with a dread repose,
which continues to haunt the imagination even after quitting
the scene.* Seated among the rocks, or whirling in airy circles
above and around us, I saw the various birds which seek these
solitary abodes. I could not look upon them without an interest
seldom inspired by the tamer species. Whether curlews, gulls,
razor-bills, guillemots, cormorants, or herons, there is something
wild, romantic, and eccentric in their habits and appearance,
which produce ideas of solitude and freedom ; for we feel that
they are not our slaves, but commoners of nature. On one of
the loftiest crags, I observed what I took to be a peregrine
falcon, — one of those feudal warriors who has survived his fame —
no longer the companion of courts and fashionables.

There are few objects more interesting than the appearance of
the South Stack, when approaching it from the water. Its singu-
larly novel aspect, its wild site and deserted air, — the lighthouse
towering seventy feet in height, — the neat, comfortable buildings
close under its guardian wing, — the sounds of life and industry
mingled with the lashing of the sea, — and the cry of innumerable
birds, ever circling above and around, were altogether of so
unwonted a character, that had I been suddenly transported to
the antipodes I could not have felt more unfeigned surprize. And
when, having ascended its steep and rocky stairs, I gazed from
the summit of the lighthouse on the wilderness of waters far
around, and descending entered the quiet, pleasant retreat, which

* ' Here the empire of birds commences, and is continued with little interruption, though
with singular selection and variety, ("or a considerable distance along the more inaccessible
heights of the coast. One of the most singular circumstances connected with this associ-
ated location, is the absolute line of demarcation and boundary observed on both sides ;
each species taking a separate site, ami never intruding on the appropriated districts of a
neighbouring tribe. The guillemots and razor-bills nestle for the most part in their holes
and corners ; the gulls are scattered with rather a more latitudinarian spirit over the whole
surface ; while the cormorants usually sojourn on a somewhat lower range, as if more
suitable to their heavy awkward (light. But most select and ascetic, as far as communi-
cation with others is concerned, are the herons.' — Blackwood.

182 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

the master has established here, and saw the neatness and comfort
of every thing, I began to think I was perhaps only reading too
abstractedly some old faiiy tale. But Captain Evans soon con-
vinced me to the contrary by introducing me to an excellent dinner,
in wliich there was nothing dreamy or unsubstantial, though it
appeared, indeed, conjured from the vasty deep ! During the
afternoon I amused myself in scrambling down the South Stack
to the water's edge — in observing the myriads of gulls standing
on the ledges of the rock, or flying about in all directions* —
in examining the suspension bridge — and scaling the towering
acclivity above, from which the island and lighthouse appear but
diminutive objects; while the ever varying ocean was enlivened by
numerous vessels passing up or down the channel.

The suspension bridge which connects the South Stack rock
with the Head, was erected in 1827, at the suggestion and under
the superintendence of Captain Evans. It is over a chasm nearly
one hundred feet in width, and built on the same principles as the
Menai — two chain cables across, fii*mly fixed in the rocks on each
side. It is five feet wide, and seventy feet above high-water mark.
Previously, to see the lighthouse, persons were wafted over the
abyss in a kind of basket, which was also used for the purpose
of conveying the necessaries of life in stormy weather.

Upon our return, also, by sea, the captain pointed out the
several spots where the wrecks of vessels had occurred; and

* ' The {julls, at the breeding season, so numerous on the island and adjacent coast,
disperse themselves for the rest of the year ; and are never seen congregated in great
numbers, except when attracted by shoals of herrings or some similar cause ; but it
is positively asserted by light-keepers, as a very extraordinary fact, that they all instinc-
tively return to the South Stack during the same might, on or about the lOth of
February; and retire, with the exception of those that, having been robbed on the main,
had resorted to the island to renew the labours of incubation, about the night of the
12th of August. The keepers state that, in the middle of the former night, they arc
warned of their arrival by a great noise, as it were a mutual greeting and cheering ;
adding, that they look to their return as that of so many old ac(iuaintances, after a long
absence, announcing the Winter to be over, and Spring aiii)roaching ' — Rev. Edward
Stunlf'i/^s Familiar History of Birds.

N

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 183

mentioned an almost miraculous escape of a ship, which in a
storm actually drove between two projecting ledges or shelves of
rock, scarcely broad enough to admit a vessel without suffering
injury. Now there is little dread of such an occurrence ; for in
addition to the excellent method of the revolving lights here
adopted, the worthy captain has so placed another in a lower
range of the rock as to preclude all danger, and which has been
of the greatest utility. From a like motive, which seems to have
actuated him through life, he favours the location and increase of
the sea-birds, persuaded that their scream is known to the mariner,
during thick and foggy weather, as a token of being near the shore.

I approached Beaumaris by the fine road which the public
owe to the munificence of the late Lord Bulkeley. A succession
of noble prospects, constantly varying as I advanced along the
shore, with the distant murmur of the waves, the fresh sea-breeze,
and, save when broken by the scream of the gulls and curlews, the
general silence of the scene, renders the walk from Llandisilio
inexpressibly delightful.

Beaumaris,* which is the county town of Anglesey, is pleasantly
situated at the entrance of the Menai Strait, which here forms a
spacious bay. The castle is nearly quadrangular, with a round
tower at each angle. The principal entrance faces the sea, and is
formed by two circular bastion towers. This creation of Edward I.,
Mr. Pennantf says, was designed as a curb on his headstrong
countrymen. The neighbourhood is now the resort of great
numbers in quest of health or pleasure. The rides and sea

* Much learning and ingenuity have been shown by etymon hunters in investigating
the origin of this name. One will have it to have been changed from Bonover (but what
was the meaning of that word ?) to Beaumaris, from Beau, fine or beautiful, and marais,
a marsh. And this, considering who built it, is not improbable. Another, and I
admire his idea, imagines it may have been derived from the latin bimaris, an epithet
which Horace applies to the city of Corinth, because it was situated between two seas.

t Pennant, generally so rich in antiquarian gossip, says he was unable to collect from
the family archives of the neighbourhood any thing of much value concerning this town,
except that, in early times, the marsh, which is supposed to have been much more
extensive than at present, was covered with fins buUrushes !

184 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

excursions are not to be surpassed ; and the accommodations very
superior. Tlie houses are well built, and the town presents a neat
and cheerful a})pearance.

In the Bay of Beaumaris, in August, 1831, the lamentable
wreck of the llothsay Castle steam-vessel occurred. She left
Liverpool in the morning, with upwards of one hundred and thirty
souls on board. The weather being boisterous, the vessel made
but little way, and, towards evening, the sea running high, the
passengers entreated the captain to return, offering to relinquish
their fares, but he stubbornly refused. The Rothsay reached
Little Ormshead at eight o'clock, and was off Great Ormshead
at ten, being two hours in making four miles ! Here the leakage
increased with alarming rapidity — the cabins began to fill — the
vessel lurched heavily — and the passengers were soon required to
relieve each other at the pumps. They were then ten miles from
Beaumaris, but gained the entrance to the Menai Strait about
twelve o'clock, when their appalling situation soon became apparent
by the sea entering the engine-room and nearly extinguishing
the fires. Shortly afterwards the steamer struck on the Dutch-
man's Bank, when the consternation and horror of the passengers
must have surpassed any description.

A gentleman on board, Mr. Tinne, gives the following heart-
rending particulars: — I felt a shock as if the vessel had grounded;
all seemed a scene of confusion, and there was no obtaining
information about what had happened. Shortly, however, she
began to strike both fore and aft, and at last we were completely
aground, and almost incapable of advancing. The concussions
continued, as if warnings of our impending fate, and our alarm
kept pace with these dismal forebodings. I was going into the
cabin, but found the way stopped by ladies sitting on the steps.
I therefore returned to one of the benches on the poop, — two or
three ladies being beside me, nuich agitated. The gentlemen
were then ordered forward, with a view to lighten the vessel
astern, while the engine was kept working ; each stroke of the

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 185

wheels, however, seemed hke the expirhig ticking of a watch, and
we made no way. I succeeded a person in ringing the bell. This
station I occupied for twenty minutes or more. The individual
who succeeded me, however, lost the tongue, and they were then
obliged to take a piece of wood instead of it: the feelings of despair
which I thought actuated this, sunk deeply into my soul; and, low
as each rap was, it sounded like the death-knell of us all. They
were labouring hard at the pumps, and calling to be relieved.
I went several times forward, and once in the hurry fell down
the trap-door of the engine-room, but saved myself from going
through. The anxiety of the moment did not allow me to think
of pain. The captain was mostly, I believe, in the bow of the vessel.
The last time I noticed him, he was standing perfectly motionless,
with one hand on the windlass, and he appeared looking out
a-head. The water was now washing strongly over us, and I had
some difficulty in regaining a place in the larboard corner of the
poop. There was a rush at this time towards the boat ; but those
who had got into her came out again, for they were told that she
could not live in such a sea, that she had a hole in her bottom, and
there were no oars. I now threw off my clothes, leaving only my
waistcoat, shirt, stockings, and drawers ; and of these latter, also,
I soon afterwards divested myself. I looked at my watch, and
found it within a quarter of two. It was dark ; thick, black clouds
were flying about the sky — and only one bright star could be seen,
reflected on the troubled sea.'

* Fathers beheld the hastening doom with stern delirious eye ;
Wildly they looked around for help — no help, alas, was nigh !
Mothers stood trembling with their babes, uttering complaints in vain ;
No arm but the Almighty arm might stem the dreadful main !
Jesu, it was a fearful hour ! — the elemental strife
Howling above the shrieks of death, the struggling groans for life !'

Afterwards the vessel laboured excessively, and some parts gave
way, when she speedily filled with water, and rolled and pitched
violently. Mr. Adshead says : — This was the limit of her fearful

z

186 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

career : she stnick again, with tremendous force, and her fragile
shell-work, which had previously given way through the insuffi-
ciency of its fastenings, was torn asunder by the mightier shock,
leaving ample space for the fierce gush of waters in every direction ;
and she soon lay a helpless wreck, clogged by the fatal indraught,
' staked by the weight of her engine and apparatus to the sand,'
and surrendering human victims to almost every wave that shattered
her. Fearful and heart-rending was the unequal conflict ! The
young man was cut off in his strength ; the maiden in the flower of
her age ; the matron perished with the child, and the veteran with
the youth ; the rich fell under the stroke which cut down the
poor ; the priestly character suffered with the man of the world —
all were swept away in indiscriminate union, and found, in one
mingled mass, a common grave.

' Then rose from sea to sky the wild farewell,

Then shriek'd the timid, and stood still the brave,
Then some leap'd overboard with dreadful yell,

As eager to anticipate their grave.
*****
And first one universal shriek there rush'd,

Louder than the loud ocean, like a crash
Of echoing thunder; and then all was hush'd,

Save the wild wind, and the remorseless dash
Of billows ; but at intervals there gush'd,

Accompanied with a convulsive splash,
A solitary shriek, the bubbling cry
Of some strong swimmer in his agony.'

§ ^

a
S

•dC,

^

?i

CHAPTER XIV.

ABER, PENMAEN MAWR, CONWAY, LLANRWST, &C.

' Where'er vve gaze, around, above, below,
What rainbow tints, what magic charms are found!
Rock, river, forest, mountain, all abound,
And bluest skies that harmonize the whole !
Beneath, the distant torrent's rushing sound
Tells where the volumed cataract doth roll.
Between those hanging rocks, that shock yet please the soul.'

After visiting with a garrulous cicerone the few curiosities of
Beaumaris, which I shall not now pause to describe, I proceeded
towards the ferry. The place of embarkation, which lies near the
town, is a point of land anciently denominated PenrJiT/n Safnes,
but afterwards 'Osmund's Air,' from a malefactor there executed,
and who, on his way to the fatal spot, jocosely observed he was only
going to take the air. Among the passengers in the ferry boat,
was a drover, proceeding on business to Aber. This man was, in
his way, a great traveller; he had been at Liverpool, Birmingham,
and Manchester; and first and last had had great dealings with
the Saxons over the border ; yet his Sasiiag was not over abundant.
In fact, he spoke a jargon in comparison with which the Doric of
the Highlands might be regarded as clear and intelligible. Though
a pig-drover, he was a great patriot; that is, he thought everything
Welsh superior to whatever of similar kind could be found in any
other country. In his opinion there was no good ale on the wrong
side of the Dee; the very pigs, he averred, were in England
more scraggy and long-legged than in Cymrij; and, looking with
an arch grin at Penmaen Mawr, which towered magnificently

188 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

above the bleak, rocky shore, 'There!' said he, pointing with his
finger at the huge mountain, 'has she any hills like that in her
country ? '

No one can have visited a country abounding like Wales with
magnificent scenery, without wishing for a vocabulary varied and
rich as the landscape. — Before me, stretching from right to left, far
as the eye could reach, rose a chain of peaks, connected at their
bases by a curtain of rocks and lower ranges, and presenting an
aspect truly Alpine; but language supplies no expressions that
could paint the effect of the whole assemblage upon the mind. — As
Mont Blanc among the Savoyard glaciers, so towers Snowdon
above the surrounding heights, luminous, yet variegated in hue,
clothed with aerial tints, and often almost transparent as a cloud.

Having accomplished the traject of the narrow frith, we walked
across the Levan Sands to Aber. Our pig-drover, who was
perfectly acquainted with the localities, here acted as our guide,
and his knowledge was of real value to us ; for since the sands shift
continually, they are not to be traversed without considerable
danger. When the thick fogs of autumn or winter lie upon the
ground, the great bell of the village, presented for the purpose, as
he infonned us, by Lord Bulkeley, is constantly rung, as a signal
to direct the footsteps of persons landing from Beaumaris.

It appears that, many years ago, the site of the present Levan
Sands formed a well-cultivated and inhabited tract of land, and
that the sudden advance of the ocean swept away the people
and cattle of the district in one overwhelming flood. Tradition is
here assisted by the remaining works of industry and art. At low
ebbs, Pughe, in Cambria Depicta, says, ruined houses are yet to
be seen, and a causeway, pointing from Puffin Island to Penmaen
Mawr, which is easily visible. The boatman placed me right
over it, and keeping the boat's head to the tide, enabled me to
examine it well; but though apparently near, the man said it
could not be less than two fathoms deep.

Aber is a small rural hamlet, situated at the entrance of a deep

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 189

glen, which, running directly inland into the heart of the mountains,
is bounded on one side by the stupendous hill, called Muesy Gaer,
whose grey surface is partly bare, partly hidden by trees. Down
the steep declivity of the mountain, that closes the extremity of the
glen, a cataract of vast height precipitates itself, which has not
without reason been compared to the Staubbach in the valley of
Lauterbrunnen. In the mouth of the defile, near the village, stands
a great artifical mound, the site in other days of one of Llewellyn's
palaces. Many years ago, some antiquarian, by excavating for the
purpose, discovered several of its massy substructions.

On quitting Aber, I pursued the road following the sweep of
the shore towards Penmaen Mawr, whose rocky, precipitous base,
running out in a bluif promontory, projects into the waves. In
the course of the afternoon, while pausing on an eminence to con-
template the features of the landscape, I beheld at a distance a
vast rainbow, bending like an arch over the sea, whose cerulean
pinnacles, now tinged with purple, it seemed to embrace within
its mighty span. It was a glorious spectacle. The contrast of the
many-coloured bow with the dark waters, the sparkling clearness
of the sky above, the brightness of the sunshine resting on the
surrounding hills, and the various features of the nearer scenery,
formed altogether so magnificent a scene, that even the traveller in
the grander regions of the Valais or Savoy can seldom witness
anything more sublime.

It was towards nightfall when I approached that part of my
journey where the road, hewn out of the solid rock, was like a
terrace midway along the face of the mountain, many hundred feet
above the sea, which breaks in thunder below. The evening was
mild and beautiful. Clouds, slightly charged with lightning, hung
over sea and land; and, from time to time, bright flashes, unaccom-
panied by thunder, kindled the firmament, showing momentarily
the form of the clouds, and gleaming over the face of the ocean.
Occasionly the eye caught by this transient light glimpses of the
black, beetling rocks overhanging the road, communicating to them

190 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

a gloomy grandeur of character which I should in vain endeavour
to describe. Formerly, before the genius of Sylvester had discover-
ed the means of widening the road and defending it with a parapet,
this passage of Penmaen Mawr was full of danger.* But, though
terrific, it is now perfectly safe; unless we contemplate the
possibility of the rain or frost detaching, as it sometimes does, vast
rocky fragments of the superincumbent mountain, and hurling them
headlong upon the helpless traveller. Ideas of such catastrophes
naturally enough present themselves in such situations to the mind ;
it was therefore not without pleasure that I found myself beyond
the possibility of danger.

Correctly speaking, this great mountain promontory has two
divisions, one of which is called Penmaen Mawr, the other Penmaen
Bach; but the whole is generally known to the tourist by the
former name. Less than a century ago, a narrow zigzag path,
along the side of the rock, was the only convenience for travellers.
Many accidents consequently occurred, which induced the Legis-
lature, in 1772, to assist in forming the present grand terrace,
which has more recently been further enlarged and improved
under the direction of Mr. Telford. It is well guarded on the
sea side, and many of the overhanging fragments of rock have
been blasted.

* Pennant observes, that 'a vein of crumbling stratum in one part so contracted tho
road as to exite new horrors. ' But tho breach, he adds, ' is now effectually repaired by
a series of arches ; a work the just admiration of travellers. ' Here, during tho latter part
of the seventeenth and the beginning of the eighteenth centuries, numerous accidents
happened, some of which, in his pleasant way, he relates : — ' I have often heard,' says he,
' of an accident, attended with such romantic circumstances that I would not venture to
mention it, had I not the strongest traditional autliority, to this day in the mouth of every
one in the parish of Llanvair Vachan, in which this promontory stands. Above a century
ago, Sion Humphries of this parish paid his addresses to Ann Thomas of Crcyddin, on tho
other side of Conway river. They had made an appointment to meet at the town of
Conway. He in his way fell over Penmaen Mawr; she was overset in the ferry boat, and
was the only person saved out of more than fourscore. They were married, and lived
very long together in the parish of Llanfair. She was buried 1744, aged 116. He survived
her five years, and was buried 174y, close by hor in the parish churchyard, where their
graves are familiarly shown to this day. '

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 191

From the late hour at which I arrived at Conway, the features of
the countiy were invisible to me. On entering the town, where
not a light streamed from any cheerful lamp on shore, or ship in
the harbour, the idea at first suggested itself that I was entering
a deserted city ; but, on turning into the broad street leading to
the Market-place, the gleam of candles from sundry bed-rooms,
and the snarl of several curs, convinced me I was in the land of
the living. Luckily the inmates of the Castle Hotel had not all
retired to rest, so that I speedily quieted the cravings of hunger.
This inn has been rebuilt and rendered very commodious and
comfortable since I visited Conway some years before.*

Our older tourists have remarked, that, like a painted sepulchre,
Conway is all beauty without, and all ugliness within ; and I am
sorry I must corroborate their testimony. But the site of the
town, on a steep declivity descending to the margin of the river,
here nearly a mile in breadth, is in itself extremely fine ; and its
majestic castle presents from a distance an aspect of singular
grandeur. Formerly a curtain, terminating in a round tower, ran
out from either end of the town walls into the river, to impede the
approach of an enemy by water; but of these one curtain only
now remains, the other, with both towers, have long since yielded
to time. From the quay is seen a noble view up and down the
river, and over the contrajacent country, broken up into swelling
hills, and beautified with woods and villas.

The castle, built in 1284, under the eye of Edward I., by the
architect, it is supposed, whom he employed in the erection of
Caernarvon, is very justly regarded as one of the most beautiful

* ' The approach to Conway from the Denbighshire side is along a new-made terrace
or breakwater, advancing across the greater part of the river's breadth, and, of course,
confining the rapid stream to very narrow limits, on the Caernarvonshire side. From
this terrace the Chain-bridge appears to be the grand entrance, under triumphal arches, to
the Castle itself ; and although, oncoming close to that venerable structure, there is a
sudden turn from it, leading directly to the town, I fancy a party of travellers will never
regret, that, instead of being deposited within the naked and roofless walls of the Castle,
they are handed into a comfortable parlour at the Castle Inn. — Smith's Guide to Snowdonia.

192 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

fortresses in a country distinguished for the splendour and magnifi-
cence of its military structures. Though more extensive and better
preserved, it somewhat resembles the castle of Falaise in Nor-
mandy. Its base, however, is less wooded, and there is no brawling
streamlet leaping, as there, from rock to rock at its foot; but,
instead, a broad, majestic river and a creak, full at high water,
sweep round two of its sides. The other two face the town.
Within the walls are two spacious courts ; and the external sweep
of the fortifications contains eight lofty towers, each with a slender
turret, singularly graceful and elegant in form, springing from
its summit.

Notwithstanding its grandeur and importance, this castle makes
no great figure in history. Soon after its erection, the Royal
founder was beseiged in it by the Welsh, and the garrison nearly
reduced to an unconditional surrender by famine. Finally,
however, they were extricated from their perilous situation by the
arrival of a fleet with reinforcements and provisions. In 1399,
Richard II., then in Ireland, commanded the troops raised in his
behalf against the haughty Bolingbroke, to assemble at Conway, —
and their numbers were considerable; but the vacillation and
feebleness of purpose of that monarch induced many of them to
abandon him on his arrival. Yet the remainder was still sufficient
to have made head against the usurper, had not the King, who
feared to fight his own battles, basely abandoned his followers, and
rushed blindly into the snare laid for him by his enemies. During
the Civil Wars, Conway Castle was at first held by Archbishop
Williams for the King; but the warlike churchman, being
superseded by the savage Rupert in the command of North Wales,
went over in dudgeon to the Republican party, and personally
assisted the gallant General Mytton in the reduction of the castle.
While the Republic flourished, this noble fortress was suff'ered to
retain all its ancient grandeur undiminished; but on the restoration,
a grant having been made of it, by the Stuart, to the Earl of
Conway, its new possessor ordered his agent to remove the timber,

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 193

iron, lead, and other valuable materials, and send them to Ireland,
ostensibly for his master's service, though it is generally supposed
they were converted to his own use.

In the interior, the magnificence of the great hall corresponded
with the grandeur of its outward appearance. It was one hundred
and thirty feet in length, and spacious in its other dimensions ; and
the roof was supported by eight arches, of which six only remain.
Two large fire places, one at the further extremity and the other
in the side, warmed the apartment ; and nine windows, six of which
command a prospect of the country, still admit light upon its ruins.
Two entrances, both contrived for security, conducted into the
fortress ; one by winding narrow stairs, up a steep rock, from the
Conway, and terminating in a small advanced work before one of
the castle gates, covered by two round towers; the other towards
the town, protected by similar works, with the addition of a
drawbridge over a broad moat.

Of the town of Conway little need be said. The houses, as in
most other Welsh towns, are mean and low, and dingy in colour.
Since the erection of the Suspension bridge, by Mr. Telford,
however, (which has taken the place of Charon and his ferry-
boat) and the consequent facilities of approaching the place from
Denbighshire, the condition of the inhabitants has begun to
improve, and the improvement of their dwellings will necessarily
follow. This bridge, constructed on the same principle as that
of the Menai, though on a smaller scale, presents an appearance
singularly elegant, lying at the foot of the antique castle, and
surrounded by scenery of the most picturesque description. It is
three hundred and twenty feet in length between the supporting
towers, and eighteen feet above high-water mark. The chains on
the western side pass upwards of fifty feet under the castle, and are
fastened in the rock on which it is built.

The church, though ancient, contains scarcely anything worthy

of notice, except the following inscription, engraved on a stone in

the nave of the building, which, though found in Pennant and

A -2

194 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

other tourists, is so curious as to deserve repetition : ' Here lyeth
the body of Nicholas Hookes, of Conway, gentleman, (who was the
forty-first child of his father, William Hookes, Esq., by Alice, his
wife,) the father of twenty-seven children, who died the 27th day
of March, 16:J7.' In the market-place is an old building called
Plas Mawr, which was erected more than two centuries ago. It is
deserving the notice of the antiquarian. The town is surrounded by
a very thick wall, strengthened by twenty-four towers, most of
which remain in tolerable preservation.

The pearl fishery of the Conway was celebrated even in the
time of the Romans; and, according to the elder Pliny, Julius
Caesar, returning from his marauding expedition into Britain,
from whence, as Tacitus observes, he was beaten out, dedicated,
in one of the temples at Rome, a breastplate, set with British
pearls, probably from this fishery. It is stated, but I know not
how truly, that a considerable trade is still carried on in the pearls
found in the bed of the Conway and on the adjacent coast. These
pearls are supposed to be equal in size and colour to any found
in Great Britain. Some years ago, Sir Robert Vaughan appeared
at court with a button and loop in his hat crusted with Cambrian
pearls.

Having a desire to see the splendid marine views which I had
been informed are presented from the Great Orme's Head, a lofty
promontory,* which projects into the Irish Sea, and forms the

* ' About seven or eight years since, the brip Hornby, bound from Liverpool to South
America, with a cargo of dry goods valued at upwards of 4:G0,0(K), was driven from her
course by a heavy gale ; and, about midnight, was dashed against the rugged front of the
Great Orme's Head, and instantly sunk. One of the crew happened at this terrible moment
to be out upon the bowsprit, in the act either of loosing or taking in the jib, and he was
flung by the concussion upon a narrow shelf of the rock, where he lay for some time
stunned and confounded ; but at length, exerting that mechanical energy which providence
beneficently supplies for self-preservation, even in the total absence of consciousness, and
which sometimes achieves more than deliberation would dare to attempt, he succeeded in
getting to the top of that frightful precipice, and crawled to a smithy at a little distance,
where he was found at five o'clock in the morning by some workmen employed there, in
connection with a neighbouring copper-mine. He told his melancholy story, but was

i<-

©

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 195

eastern entrance to Beaumaris Bay, I strolled thither one fine
morning, passing near the ruins of the ancient Castle of Diganwy,
and, by turning to the right a little out of my way, the estate called
Gloddaeth, on which is a mansion erected by Sir Roger Mostyn, in
the reign of Elizabeth. It is a delightful place. Proceeding
onwards over slippery downs and limestone rocks, I reached
Llandidno Church, which serves the purpose also of a beacon ; and
thence scaled the highest point of the Great Orme's Head, where
the prospect is said to be very extensive in clear weather; but I was
disappointed in my expectations, as a light mist hung over the sea.
This great rock is inhabited by myriads of sea-birds, who are secure
from molestation in the steep and inaccessible crags.* On returning
to Conway by the Little Orme's Head, I entered Denbighshire, and
traversed a small but lovely vale, richly wooded, and embosomed in
swelling hills. A small stream, which unites, at some distance
below, with the Conway, meanders fantastically through the hollow,
tempting the angler from his road; and its course, sometimes
visible, sometimes concealed by golden copses, conducts the eye
up the vale until it is lost among the hills.

On quitting Conway, the weather, as it had been during the
greater part of my journey from Holyhead, was extremely beautiful;
and the rich autumnal tints which had already settled on the land-
scape, rendered every feature of the country doubly interesting.

laughed at by his incredulous auditory; for he could only say that he had climbed up the
horrid steep which had wrecked the vessel ; hov/ he knew not, and the thing appeared
impossible to those acquainted with the place. At day-light, however, (for it was winter)
portions of a wreck were discovered near the spot, and the truth of the man's story was
shortly after made apparent. No other individual of the Hornby's crew, or thing be-
longing to her, was saved.'

• Proposals have recently been made for making a large harbour between the Great
and Little Orme's Heads, which form promontories of gigantic height, stretching out into
the channel, leaving a sort of horse-shoe bay between them upwards of a mile in width,
capable of floating at low water a thousand sail. The Great Orme's Head would, it is said,
shelter the bay from westerly gales, and the lesser one form an efficient barrier against
the easterly blast. An extensive breakwater is also contemplated from east to west,
leaving sufficient space for the ingress and egress of vessels.

196 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

On my left the Denbighshire hills, covered with heath and gorse
in flower, threw their broad shadows over the stream and valley ;
while the towering mountains of Caernarvonshire, appearing in
the distance towards the right, presented a resemblance to the Alps
as beheld from the fertile plains of the Milanese.

As I advanced, all the beauties of the lovely vale of Conway
burst in succession upon the eye; and I would fain record the
feelings of delight which those autumnal landscapes, steeped in the
richest hues of poetry, gave birth to in my mind. Now a gentle
rising in the road concealed every object but the aclivity before
me from the view; now I reached the summit, and paused to
admire all that variety of hill and dale, and rock and stream, and
forests of green and gold, that lay stretched out like a map around ;
anon I passed rapidly down the steep, smitten at every step by
the fairy changes of the scenery. Several small streams, whose
sources lie far above in lakes and lonely turns among the moun-
tains, were traversed in the course of the morning; and at each
of these I caught glimpses of lovely combs and valleys, that wind
and mount, till lost to the sight between the foldings of the hills.

There being nothing to detain the traveller at Caerhun or
Tal y bont,* I hastened forward, leaving Llanbedr on the right,
and, early in the afternoon, arrived at that point of the road where
those who visit Llanrwst must make a sharp angle to the left, and
pass the Conway into Denbighshire. The bridge, constructed

* • Between Tal y bont and Pont Dolgarrog is a nameless stream which, issuing from
Llyn Geirionedd, falls, at this part of the road, into the Conway, In precipitating itself from
the mountain ridge, this stream forms a magnificent cascade, of which Mr. Bingley gives
the following description : — ' I ascended, says he, along a winding path which, after about
a quarter of an hour's walk, conducted me to the bed of the river, near the station from
whence it was to be seen to the greatest advantage. The scene was highly picturesque.
From the upper part two streams descended at some distance from each other. The
range of rock, down which the water was thrown, was very wide, and extremely rude,
being formed in horizontal ledges into deep clefts and enormous chasms. On the various
lodgements of the rocks were numerous pendant shrubs. The dark shades of the clefts,
and the irregular brilliancy of the prominent features of the scene, from the reflected rays
of the sun, contrasted again with the foaming of the water, were truly grand. The colours
of the rock, which were everywhere, also, very dark, were rich and highly varied. '

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 197

from the designs of Inigo Jones, (who, though born in London, was
by descent a Welshman,) consists of three arches, the central one
fifty-nine feet wide, the others much narrower.

Standing on the centre of the bridge, I enjoyed a splendid
view up the river, which, in this direction, makes no bend for a
considerable distance. Here, in the fishing season, may be seen
great numbers of coracles, those vitilia navigia, or light boats,
which, in the shallower streams of this country, supply the place
of the monoxula, or canoes fashioned out of a single tree, that
in the larger rivers, as in Greece and other countries, formed the
first step towards a navy. A specimen of this singular kind of
canoe, in which our ancestors fought against their more civilized
enemies, may now be seen in the colonnade of the British Museum,
with its benches and low bulwarks, almost complete. Here great
quantities of salmon are taken ; and, in the months of February
and March, great numbers of smelt. The flow of the tide reaches
no nearer than Trefriw, a mile and a half distant, to which
place boats of twelve tons burden sometimes make their way.

The town of Llanrwst, which Pennant describes as small and
ill-built, has, since his time, increased in size and improved in
appearance. Twenty-five years ago, the Rev. Mr. Evans gave
2549 as the number of its inhabitants, which has now increased
to 3601 ; and, in proportion as the population has augmented,
evidences of superior taste and attention to comfort have become
visible. From its central situation in a busy and thriving district,
distant from any other mart, it has been enabled to monopolize
the trade of the neighbourhood. It was formerly famous for its
cattle fairs, and peculiar manufacture of Welsh harps; but the
branches of industry chiefly cultivated at present are the spinning
of woollen yarn, and the knitting of stockings.

There is nothing within the town particularly worthy of notice.
The church may be visited by those fond of seeing mutilated
monuments and tombs. Like many other religious structures of the
darker ages of Christianity, its erection is connected with a tale of

198 WANDEKINGS THROrOII NORTH WALES.

blood. The ground it stands on, according to tradition, was given
by Rhun ap Nefydd Hardd, in expiation of the murder of Idwal,
son of Owen Gwynnedd, cut off by Nefydd, his foster-father, to
whose care he had been entrusted. In the interior of the church is
some curious carving, said to have been brought from the neigh-
bouring abbey; and the Gwydir Chapel, erected in 1633, by Sir
Richard Wynne, from the designs of Inigo Jones, may, though
neglected, be considered as another ornament. On the wall, nearly
crumbling to dust, is an old monument, ornamented with trophies,
designed to commemorate the ancestors of the Gwydir family.

But very little, after all, of the attraction of the place consists
in churches or bridges. It is by the charms of nature, which man
may indeed diminish, but can never destroy, that the traveller is
led to visit Llanrwst. Here are concentrated, within an extremely
narrow compass, a thousand elements of the picturesque, combined
with all the cunning of nature's hand into an endless succession
of pictures,

' Ever varying, ever new ! '

Far as the eye can reach, hills towering behind hills, each
differing from the other in aspect and outline, appear to blend
and intermingle their summits, till the aerial peaks of the most
remote seem to unite with the sky, which they resemble in colour.
Feathering the nearer cliffs, and climbing along the precipitous
ascents of the bolder ranges, are dense forests, which were now
tinged by autumn's hand with the gorgeous colours with which the
year loves to conceal its decline. Similar w'oods line both banks of
the Conway, and hang, as if in fondness, over their own majestic
reflections slumbering upon its waters. Here, long sweeps of the
noble stream glitter in the sun — there, broad masses of shadow
darken its waters, or thick groups of trees altogether conceal it;
while farther, above and below, the eye catches further glimpses
of its majestic course, flowing along its green banks, in one part
covered with light barks, in others solitary and silent as the rivers
of some new continent. I am sensible, however, how vain it is to

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 199

attempt, with the imperfect colours of language, to depict so lovely
a scene. Every person who has beheld it must be aware that, in
such cases, even the most inspired pencil must fall short; and,
therefore, it will excite the less surprise if words are found unequal
to the task. Burke, who, at some period of his life, passed this
way, pronounced Llanrwst the most charming spot he had seen
in Wales; and though authority, particularly in matters of taste,
goes but a short way with me, I must, on this point, reecho his
dictum, which, without disparagement to the Vale of Clwyd or
Llangollen, I consider to be founded in truth.

My next ramble was to the higher part of the estate of Gwydir.
Mr. Aikin passed some high encomiums on the sylvan and romantic
scenery of this neighbourhood, which I found were not exaggerated.
Majestic forest trees mingled their leaves with the birch, mountain
ash, fir, or luxuriant underwood that clothed the eminences. Hav-
ing climbed near the highest elevation, an extended landscape
burst upon the view. It was the vale through which the river
Llugwy rolls with impetuous force till it joins the Conway, near
Bettws y Coed. Below me, on the left, lay this pretty village —
in front, the valley, rich in foliage, displaying every variety of tint.
Occasionally the foaming Llugwy showed itself through the exu-
berant trees lining its banks. The mail road to Holyhead runs
nearly parallel with it the whole of its extent. In the extreme
distance, on the left, rises the great mountain of Moel Siabod;
beyond which, in the centre, the purple peaks of Snowdon are
distinctly visible ; while to the right, as if to enhance the grandeur
of the scene, tower the Glyder hills. The sun beamed brightly
in the heavens, and all seemed quietude and peace in this seques-
tered spot. The pencil of the artist can never portray, nor the
pen of the author describe, the impression produced upon the
imagination by the glorious scene.

The neat white-washed cottages of the hardy inhabitants of this
mountainous district are scarcely observable until the pedestrian
approaches close to them. At one, near which is the best view

200 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

up the valley, the singular custom, which I had before noticed
in Wales, of blowing through a cow's horn, to call the labourers
to their meals, startled me, but I soon regained my self-possession
on turning towards the cottage, when I discovered the innocent
cause of my surprise. This secluded and delightful spot brought
to my recollection the invitation of Petrarch, when at Vaucluse,
to Cardinal Colonna. ' If you prefer the tranquillity of the
country to the noise of the town, come here and enjoy yourself.
Do not be alarmed at the simplicity of my table, or the hardness
of my bed. Change of scene is always pleasing ; and pleasures,
by occasional interruption, frequently become more lively. I
promise to provide you with a bed of the finest turf, a cooling
shade, the music of the nightingale, and water drawn from the
freshest springs; and, in short, every thing that the hand of
nature prepares for the lap of genuine pleasure.'

On returning I passed by a small waterfall, and varied my route
towards the northern part of Gw^dir. Presently the vale of
Llanrwst, with the Conway meandering through the whole extent,
presented itself. Descending the side of a steep hill covered with
immense grey rocks, occasionally varied by heath and fern, seldom,
I apprehend, visited by human footsteps, I soon found myself on
the well-known old bridge over the river Conway. A solitary
angler was pursuing his favourite amusement along the banks of
the sparkling stream, which

* Makes sweet music with the enamell'd stones,

Giving a gentle kiss to every sedge

He overtaketh in his pilgrimage;

And so by many winding nooks he strays

With willing sport.'

While a young artist, probably desirous of fame, was studiously
portraying the enchanting objects around.

The varied scenery observed in the walk from hence to Bettws
y Coed, must render it particularly attractive to all who can spare
a day when visiting that village or the town of Llanrwst. Pursuing

sa

■5)

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 201

the new road, which presently joins that leading to Bangor, I came
to the Waterloo Bridge, consisting of a single arch of cast-iron,
upwards of one hundred feet in span ; there is an inscription on
the main rib, which informs the passer-by that it was erected the
same year the battle of Waterloo was fought. Thence I strolled
over some meadows and along a footpath to the spot where the
Llugu'y joins its impetuous waters with those of the Conway; and
then along the banks of the former, until I came in sight of the
venerable old bridge called Pont y Pair, or the Bridge of the
Cauldron. This bridge, built on four or five arches, which are
fixed on projecting rocks, presents a very picturesque appearance —
particularly after heav'y rains, when the stream rolls with impe-
tuosity among the rocks, and over the large stones which form the
bed of the river. Now, however, it was comparatively tranquil.
Stillness prevailed around, save the rippling of the water; the
opposite mountain throwing its sombre shade over the surrounding
objects.

b2

CHAPTER XV.

rONT ABKRGLASSLYN, PENMORFA, CRICAETH, HARLF.CH, MAENTWROG, TAN Y BWI.CH.

Nor can the tortured wMve here find repose :
But raging still amid the shaggy rocks,
Now flashes o'er the scatter'd fragments, now
Aslant the hollow channel rapid darts;
And falling fast from gradual slope to slope.
With wild infracted course and lessen'd roar,
It gains a safer bed, and steals at last
Along the mazes of the quiet vale.

Thomson.

Leaving with regret the romantic vale of the Llugvvy, and the
no less interesting vicinity of Bettws y Coed, I once more bent my
steps through the Snowdon hills, and along the noble road I have
already described, anxious, on my route towards Merionethshire,
to catch one farewell glance of my favourite Beddgelert, and the
wild scenery round Aberglasslyn.

On my way to the bridge, my attention was directed to the stone
mentioned by Pennant, and known as the seat of the poet of whom
I have before spoken, — the patriot Rhys Goch, contemporary with
the great Owen Glendovver. It is part of a wanderer's creed to put
faith in traditions of this kind ; and I could easily picture to myself
the gifted descendant of the house of Hafod pursuing his accustomed
solitary walk towards this his beloved retreat, where, seated under
the roof of heaven, surrounded by the stern majesty of nature in
her darkest, loneliest, or loveliest moods, he poured forth those
bold, pathetic hymns which nerved his countrymen to fresh deeds
of honour against their oppressors. Among his other productions,
not the least pleasant and full of meaning, is that happy satire on
the villain fox, who devoured his favourite peacock. It holds forth

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 20'3

* an o'er true moral,' with flashes of humour, a covert wisdom
mingled with gentle thoughts and sympathies, reminding one at
times even of our patriarch Chaucer. He died towards the close
of the fifteenth century, after narrowly escaping the vengeance of
the English, who pursued him from hill to hill and from cave
to cave, but he at last found rest among his beloved haunts at
Beddgelert.

The approach to the bridge* which connects Caernarvonshire
with Merionethshire is wonderfully striking — in some points of
view, sublime and terrific. The roadf where the view first bursts
upon the eye in all its varied and extraordinary features, by its
bleak, barren aspect, overhung by huge precipices and broken rocks
stretching far into the distance, well prepares the mind for those
impressions which, on whatever side approached, by day or by moon-
light, as Bingley so enthusiastically describes it, never fail to call
forth the admiration of the coldest traveller. All the milder fea-
tures of landscape are here lost in the sublime and terrible; instead
of the softer interchange of hill, and lake, and glen, the grandeur
of the whole scene, breaking suddenly on the eye, at once arrests
and employs the imagination.

From the spot whence I contemplated the chasm, rose craggy
cliffs, beetling eight hundred feet above, and huge rocks of most
capricious forms, — here bright, there flinging their shadows deep as
night upon the black waters, which plunging at first in flashing
eddies afterwards form a broad, translucent torrent. The eye
almost recoils from the vast projecting precipice, which seems to

* Pont Aberglasslyn has been more than once mistaken by the tourist for Pont ar
Monach, or the Devil's Bridge, in Cardiganshire, — a curious arch extending across a much
narrower and deeper chasm. ]\Ir. Bingley thus observes that he had expected to see an
arch thrown across a deep narrow vale, hanging as it were in mid air ; but was disappointed
to find it a bridge very little out of the usual form !

t This road, which so late as Mr. Pennant's visit, was a mere horsepath, after being
formed with incredible labour, has lately been sufficiently widened to permit carriages to '
pass each other, and is bounded on the lower side by a stone wall. In the structure of the
bridge there is nothing extraordinary ; it consists of a wide stone arch, of thirty feet chord,
thrown over a raving torrent, and projected from two perpendicular precipices.

204 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

threaten destruction to the narrow ridge upon which I was then
standing, and which is close to the brink of the flood. Not a
feature of landscape was wanting to complete the mournful charm
of the hour and the spot. The gathering twilight giving broader
masses to the rude rocks, soaring in succession above bolder cliffs,
here piled tier upon tier, and again broken by the huge serpen-
tine chasm, — with the wild wooded scene, — the sounding cataract,
— the bright river, — and the deep green glen stretched far below, —
recalled to mind some of the boldest Alpine scenery that ever
inspired the genius of the painter, or the gloomy joy of the robber

chief.

'The disjointed crags,
O'er the steep precipice in fragments vast
Impending, to the astonished mind recall
The fabled horrors, by demoniac force
Of Lapland wizards wrought, who borne upon
The wirldwind's wing, what time the vex'd sea dashed
Against Norwegia's cliffs, to solid mass
Turned the swoU'n billows, and the o'erhanging waves
Fix'd ere they fell.'

With deference to the learned translator of Giraldus, there is
reason to believe this must have been the spot where several of the
princes of Meirion's people received from Archbishop Baldwin the
sign of the cross, and this extraordinai'y pass the scenery, that
induced the monk to observe ' that the territory of Conan, parti-
cularly Merionyth, is the rudest district of all Wales; the ridges
of its mountains are very high, ending in sharp peaks, and so
irregularly jumbled together, that if the shepherds conversing
together from their summits should agree to meet, they could
scarcely effect their purpose in a whole day.' *

It is through the ravine below that the river, at times broad and

■ rapid, (formed by the junction of two streams, springing from the

lakes on the south-west side of Snowdon,) comes thundering with

* Hoare's Giraldus.

WANDERINGS TIIUOUGH NORTH WALES. 205

resistless force. Near the bridge I observed a small fall, close to
which was formerly a perpendicular ledge of rock, forming one of
the most remarkable salmon-leaps in Wales. It is seldom that
the salmon leave the sea until the fall of the year, and bear up
towards the fresh water. Hence the disappointment of travellers
who, uninitiated in the gentle craft, have stood during the summer
months for hours upon the bridge, in order to see the bright-scaled
monarch perform his well-known feat of agility. I was more
fortunate a few years ago* than I had expected ; the season of the
year being favourable for beholding this curious proof of piscatory
ingenuity. It was only after numerous efforts however, that a noble
fish made good his ascent, and overtopped the ledge after two or
three failures. After poising himself for a moment to make his
circular spring, he gave a sudden jirk which scattered all the lesser
fry, and placed him in a moment on the higher eminence. No
wonder that a salmon fishery was established here at a very early
period; — fish was enumerated in the Welshman's list of game,
and protected with all the strictness of the law. This fine weir
was vested in the Crown, and, during the reign of Henry IV., was
leased out to one Robert ap Meredydd. It has since become
private property, and is let to some poor fishermen, at a small
annual rate, who turn it to good account.

Among other tourists, Mr. Wyndham justly extols the pic-
turesque grandeur of the scenery around this unrivalled pass.
Unfolding some new features at every step, the succession of
strata assumes all shapes and all colours, from the lightest gray
to the darkest hues of brown and black, and often, when the sun
emerges from behind his canopy of clouds, the variegated summits
are enriched with the most brilliant tints of light and gold.

Proceeding towards Tremadoc, along the skirt of high overarch-
ing cliffs, a noble view soon presented itself — varied and extensive —

* The shelf of the rock above the l)ridge, which heretofore formed what was termed
the salmon-leap, has more recently given way, and the traveller may now look without
a chance of seeing the finny lover's leap.

206 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

of the little and great Traeths, stretching to the sea, — the distant
Castles of Cricaeth and Harlech, — and those bold embankments,
which bear witness to the genius and courage — worthy the present
age — of their enterprising founder. Thousands of acres have thus
been reclaimed from the waters, — a safe communication formed
between the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth across the
estuary of l>aeth Mawr, formerly the grave of so many unfor-
tunate wayfarers. Tremadoc deservedly bears the name of its
founder. In the vicinity rise the noble mansions of Tan yr Allt
and Morva Lodge, the work also of the same enlightened individual.
The former discovers great architectural taste, and, being elevated
on a lofty rock overlooking the town, surrounded by flourishing
plantations, presents a picturesque appearance.

The late W. A. Madocks, Esq., was the enterprising gentleman
who has so greatly improved this district. In 1800 he recovered
nearly two thousand acres from the sea ; and a few years afterwards
constructed the large embankment over the Traeth Mawr. About
seven thousand acres more were subsequently secured from the
encroachment of the tides, five thousand of which are now culti-
vated. In 1821, Mr. Madocks was instrumental in procuring an
Act of Parliament for improving the bay, in which vessels of two
or three hundred tons burthen now ride in safety. Port Madoc
is one mile from the town, whence great quantities of slates,
copper ore, &c. are shipped.

Turning my steps towards Cricaeth, I next stopped for a few
hours at the village of Penmorfa, so notorious of old for the rival
families which perpetually disturbed its vicinity. Not a few of the
adventures of these lords of the soil are worth repeating, if only
to awaken the people of the present day to a sense of the great
advantages, and infinite superiority of position, which they enjoy,
compared with their less civilized predecessors.

One of the Merediths at a place not a mile from Penmorfa,
was brought up by a foster-father of the same name. The
adopted son married a sister of Howell ap Rhys, but, iu conse-

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 207

(juence of his attachment to his now father, between whose family
and that of Howell there had long subsisted a bitter feud, he
succeeded to it as a sort of heirloom which he could not shake off".
For his first wife, Howell had taken a sister of Jevan, which
tended to allay the quarrel ; but on her death he became united to
a w'oman of a very opposite temper, whose ungovernable passions
roused the slumbering embers of discord into a consuming flame.
Rejected love had rendered Jevan the object of her implacable
hate ; and at such a period, and in so wild a country, ' a woman
scorned ' was no despicable foe ; she scrupled not to have recourse
to assassination, and to render her own husband the instrument of
her revenge. Several attempts were made upon Jevan's life;
and his friends were so closely beset, that they never appeared
abroad unarmed. But the Howells, tracking their steps with a
scent as sure as the bloodhound's, got information that they were
about to meet a large party of friends at a village a few miles dis-
tant, to hold a festival of various games and feats of arms. Their
M'ay lay through a lonely pass, favourable for the purpose of the
pursuers. With a strong party, the assassins lay in ambush, to
await the coming of their victims. One of the more resolute was
directed, in the heat of the affray, to single out the tallest and most
handsome, and getting behind, to fell him with a blow of his axe to
the earth. 'You will easily know him,' said Howell, 'by his superior
stature ; but look before you strike, for he has a foster-brother,
Robin ap Jnco, a little close-set fellow, who is ever at his elbow.
Now mind this man, for he is a perfect little devil, always on
the look out for his brother's safety.' The morning came. Jevan,
attended by his wife and several friends, set out ; but the former
having gone a mile, and perceiving no signs of danger, returned.
She had not gone far when Howell and his party sprang from their
concealment, eager to fall upon her husband. Suspecting their
design, she threw herself in the way, and intreated Howell to have
compassion on him. Finding her prayers in vain, she seized his
horse's reins ; and being flung off, is said to have caught hold of the

208 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

auimars tail to arrest his speed, and suffered herself to be dragged
along, still imploring the wretch's mercy.

On rushed the assassins till they overtook and fell with relentless
swords upon their adversaries ; though on foot, Jevan and his friends
sustained the onset gallantly. Marking his man, the assassin crept
gradually behind and aimed, as he thought, a deadly blow at his
head; but little Robin was at hand, and, ere the blow fell, stretched
the villain upon the ground. Back to back they repulsed the
attack of the horse ; and Howell at last cried out that it was time to
be gone, since Robin ap Jnco was still alive and on the alert.
Though the vengeance of Howell's wife was thus foiled, she did not
wholly relinquish her wicked designs. Unfortunately in those
savage times only the wretch who actually struck the blow, and who
was termed Llaicrudd, or Red-hand, was held guilty of murder, and
the confederates easily made their escape. As Jevan was returning
by moonlight near Traeth Mawr, an arrow, evidently directed from
an adjacent hill-side, glanced past his head. He stopped ; ordered
his followers to aim towards the wooded copse, whence the shaft
appeared to have been sent, and upon proceeding towards the
spot, they discovered, pierced by one of their random arrows,
another adherent of the lawless men who had planned the murder.
But public enemies as they were, it was remarked that these
Red-hands were always held in particular regard by the heads of the
family by whom they were commissioned. Thus Howell, having
ascertained that Jevan and his friends were preparing to attend the
assizes at Caernarvon, sent to a famous outlaw, David ap Jenkin,
his relative, requesting of him the small favour of storatiing Jevan's
house in his absence, and seizing all his foeman's Red-hands, to
hang them up in a row before the door. David was too polite to
decline the invitation ; and being a man of approved valour, holding
midnight assassination in contempt, he made his attack early in the
morning. Roused by the alarum, the inmates summoned the
concealed outlaws of their clan to their assistance ; and to set
the example, Jevan's wife, who had stuck so fast to the horse's tail,

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 209

not a whit daunted, began by emptying the boiling wort — for, hke
a good housewife, she was already superintending the brewing — upon
the heads of her assailants. Then mustering the dairy-maids with
their churn staves, they joined the men in giving the Howellites
a warm reception. Spite of the breaches at length made in the
building, the Jevanites, incited by the valour of the ladies, held the
besiegers at bay until, rumours of the attack having spread, some
adherents of the family, commanded by little Robin ap Jnco, made
a diversion in the rear of the enemy. A sharp contest ensued; and
Robin threatening to put every Howellite to the sword when his
reserve should arrive, his adversaries prudently sounded a retreat.

Penmorfa lies at the head of some marshy meadows, not far
from the Traeth Mawr, under the frowning aspect of Moel Hebog,
which separates it from the Vale of Beddgelert ; but it presents few
features of attraction. In the church is a small monument intended
to commemorate the loyalty of the lord of Clenneney, who owned
a mansion and domain in the vicinity, — with the addition of a long
Latin inscription. Near this village, to the south-east, are the two
small inlets of the sea, called the Great and the Little Traeths.
Across the former, before the modern improvements, lay the ford
on the road leading to Tan'y Bwlch, while another over the latter
led in the direction of Harlech. These were oftentimes very
dangerous from the occasional swelling of the surrounding streams
and torrents. But the genius of the mountain storm and the flood
has dropped his wand and lost his terrors before the master-spirit
of human science ; and the treacherous sands, the deep yawning
precipice, and the hollow passes are no longer formidable to the
pedestrian traveller, as in the days of Doctor Johnson and his
predecessors.

In passing the Traeths that morning, I enjoyed the fine coast
views, diversified by every variety, and the noble ruins of
Cricaeth, and of Harlech Castles, lending a fresh charm to the
distance — a charm that soon fails when entering some common
market or borough town. Such, at least, was my feeling on

c2

210 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

reaching that apology for a borough called Cricaeth. But its
picturesque ruin, projecting into the sea, with the relics of its
ancient strength and grandeur, the double foss and vallum, the
old crumbling towers, once a bulwark of the warlike Edward, and
the prospect over the bay to Harlech, more than atoned for its
mean aspect and condition.

Taking a boat near Cricaeth, I had a pleasant sail through
part of Cardigan Bay to Harlech. This mean little town, now
only remarkable for its feudal castle, was foraierly a place of
considerable importance, and a fortified post of the Romans and
the Britons,- defending the openings of the two Traeths, and
securing a communication with the opposite shore.*

The name of the old fortress was Twr Bromven, from Bromcen,
or the fair-necked sister to Bren ap Llyr, Duke of Cornwall, and
subsequently King of Britain. In the eleventh century, it was
termed Caer Collwyn, from Collwyn ap Tango, Lord of Ardudwy,
who resided in a square tower of the ancient edifice, parts of
which, now the foundation of the more modern work, may yet be
distinguished. The present castle — one of the most entire in
Wales — bears ample evidence of having been erected by the same
architect who was employed by Edward I. in his other magnificent
and gigantic structures. Commanding both land and sea, it rises
from a rock-girt eminence, jutting boldly from the coast. Con-
sisting of one large square building, each side measuring above
seventy yards, having a round tower at the several corners, crowned
with turrets, now nearly defaced, — how imposing must it have
appeared in its pride of strength, with its numerous fortifications,
its fosses, and based on the verge of a perpendicular rock which
rendered it almost invulnerable ! The walls are lofty, towering
above the marsh and the sea; and from the summit is beheld a

* Many Roman remains, such as the golden torques and a number of coins, seem to
corroborate sufficiently the received opinion as to the formidable position of this strong-
hold of the coast, and of its having been occupied by the Romans.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 21 1

splendid prospect over the bay, — the promontory of Llyn, —
Cricaeth Castle, — the shagged sides of Carreg y Saeth, — and the
range of Snowdon hills, soaring far above the other mountains —
now bright, now half shrouded in their veil of clouds.

If we may credit tradition, the ancient fortress, on the founda-
tions of which Harlech Castle stands, was built by Maelgwyn
Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, about 530. The modern struc-
ture was completed in 1283; in 1404 it was seized, with that of
Cardigan, by the fiery Glendower ; and in the wars of the Roses it
afforded a retreat to the high spirited consort of Henry VI., after
escaping the grasp of the fierce intriguing Lord Stanley, and the
fatal overthrow at Northampton. From Harlech she proceeded to
Scotland, raised a new army, and proved her invincible heroism
upon the plains of Wakefield. When the tide of victory set in
favour of Edward IV., the only strongholds which held out against
the victor, were a few castles in Northumberland and that of
Harlech. The last was held for the Lancasterian party by David
ap Jevan, equally distinguished by his immense stature and by his
valour. Spite of threats and sieges, he remained governor nine
years after the coronation of Edward. At length the King sent
an army against him, commanded by the Earl of Pembroke.
After marching with incredible difficulty and hardship through
the rough defiles of the British Alps, surmounting terrific crags,
and passing along steep precipices, the English at length succeeded ,
in surrounding the fortress. Pembroke committed the siege to his
brother, a hero at least equal in size, if not in military prowess,
to the British commander. In reply to the summons for
surrender, the fiery Cambrian made answer, that once in France
* he held a tower till all the old women in Wales heard of it, and
that the old women of France should now hear how he had
defended a Welsh castle.'*

Sir Richard, finding all other means fruitless, had at length

• History of the Gwydir Family.

212 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

recourse to famine. This is always a powerful mediator ; and Sir
Ricliard having promised both life and liberty to the besieged,
on these terms the place was surrendered. On the news being
conveyed to King Edward, he angrily refused to fulfil the
conditions, having promised himself the pleasure of putting the
obstinate old commander to some cruel death. 'Then, Sire,'
replied the gallant Sir Richard, 'you may wreak your vengeance
upon me ; here is my life in place of the Welsh captain's ; and if
you do not comply, I will instantly put David again in possession
of his castle, and your Highness may send whom you please to
take him out.'

During the Civil Wars, the contest for its possession was frequent
and sanguinary. It was resolutely defended by Sir Hugh Pennant
for the King, and, after often changing hands, was the last in Wale's
which surrendered to the Parliament. The present constable, I
am informed, is Sir Robert Vaughan, whose high character, and
the objects to which he devotes his wealth, seem to render him
deserving of the popular influence and the honours which he
enjoys.

Pennant gives a long account of a golden torques found
in a garden near this place in 1692; but whether it is a Roman,
Gallic, or British relic, appears somewhat doubtful. Its use
appears to have been that of a baldrick, to suspend the quiver of
the chieftains or men of rank, so as to hang in a graceful manner
by means of the hook, while the golden wreath, passing over one
shoulder, crossed diagonally the breast.* According to Pliny, it was
bestowed among the Romans as a military reward for great exploits ;
and the etiquette, I believe, was to award to citizens torques formed
of silver, and to the auxiliaries the same composed of gold.

* In the beautiful description by Virgil, when speaking of the exercises of the Trojan
youths, there is an allusion to this mode of wearing their quivers : —

' Cornea bina ferunt pra;(i.\a hastilia ferro,
Pars leves huincro pliarelras : i( pectore summo
Flexilis abtorli per collum circulus auri.'

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 213

On my way to one of my favourite stations — the Caen Coed Imi,
at Tan y Bwlch, — I took the opportunity of visiting a waterfall,
called the Rhaiadr Du, formed by the interesting little river Velin
Rhyd, about two miles from Maentwrog. The water separates
after the fall into two or three channels. Rocks, covered with
moss, shrubs, and trees, form scenery at once rude and grand.

Regaining the high road, I soon reached the pleasant and
salubrious village of Maentwrog ; passing through which I shortly
arrived at the Caen Coed Inn — now, however, more familiarly
known by the appellation of the ' Oakley Arms Hotel.'

The following morning was delightfully fine and the air invigor-
ating. After breakfast — accompanied by a pedestrian from the
Emerald Isle, who, though a previous stranger to me, I found
a most agreeable and intelligent companion, — I entered the
grounds of the neighbouring mansion, eager to behold the truly
romantic scenery around. Few things can surpass the pleasure of
a morning ramble through the woods which clothe the heights
above the hall, or the splendour of the prospect from the terrace
over the vale, which is delightfully enriched with every feature of
landscape and of water, and forms a rich panoramic picture.

In my walk through the grounds, I observed some magnificent
specimens of the rhododendron, of nearly thirty years' growth, and
more than forty yards in circumference; many other plants and
trees appeared to grow equally luxuriantly, and both gardens and
plantations were tastefully laid out, and well adapted to the soil
and to the continual inequalities in the surface and the aspect.
It was here I first remarked the singular appearance of two fine
young trees, an elm and an ash, which, having sprung up side by
side, intertwined their stems almost from the root in so strict
an embrace as to present the sylvan phenomenon of a single
tree.

CHAPTER XVI.

DOLGELLEY, NANNAU PARK, CADER IDRIS, TAL Y LLYN, MACHYNNLETH, DlilAS MOWDDV.

I LOVE to sit upon the rocky verge

Of some high crag, whose foot the angry surge

Hath bathed in snowy foam; — the feathery spray

Flings up bright sparkles in the sunny ray,

Like moving hoar-frost, glancing here and there —

A flying fairy-land in giddy air,

Blimicking winter's attributes so well,

We gaze, and wonder what could raise the spell,

And lend such wizard power to earthly things.

That now seem launched upon a thousand wings,

And plunge aloft, in wild essays to rise.

And join their fleecy kindred of the skies.

Sea-side Thoughts, by L. A. Twamley

Being impatient to reach Dolgelley, I determined upon delaying
my visit to Ffestiniog until my return, and left Tan y Bwlch late
in the evening in an open chaise, and a little before midnight
arrived at Trawsfynydd, about seven miles on the road. The situ-
ation of this village, environed by bleak and barren mountains,
is peculiarly wild and lonely, and, wrapped in the silence of night,
now appeared doubly striking. But, on entering the inn, whatever
might be the aspect of external nature, I found the inhabitants to
be a jolly, self-satisfied race, intent upon eating and drinking, and
enjoying, in their way, whatever worldly advantages had fallen to
their share. It was, in fact, the evening of a fair, and the village
inn was crowded with peasantry of both sexes ; and the men, as if
resolved not to yield in social prowess, drank and smoked like so
many burgomasters. On observing the entrance of a stranger
they rose, drank his health, and soon began to sing, with much

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 215

cordiality and some taste, a number of Welsh airs, in honour— I
was assured by the complacent host — of my arrival.

Though my stay at this place was extremely brief, it was long
enough to allow my driver to chime in with the revellers — in fact
to become rather tipsy ; and, after having, with some difficulty,
saved him from breaking his neck by falling headlong over the
wheels, I was compelled to change places with him, and undertake
myself the office of charioteer. ' Albeit unused to the whipping
mood,' I was enabled, by my novel situation, to enjoy so much
of the landscape as could be seen by moon and starlight.

All mountainous countries have by night a peculiarly interesting
and romantic aspect ; the dusky eminences seeming vaster as they
rise in the distance against the sky, the valleys and hollows, con-
templated from roads running midway along the face of steep
acclivities, presenting the appearance of unfathomable depth, and
every cwm, ravine, or rocky pass, near to or through which I
rapidly moved, seemed infinitely more wild than when day exhibits
every object in full relief.

Having passed, without stopping, through Llanilltyd, I arrived
about two o'clock in the morning at Dolgelley. At such an hour
there is, of course, not a creature stirring in a Welsh town, and
this one being unilluminated was beyond expression silent and
dismal. However, it was not long before I roused the jolly land-
lord of the ' Angel,' and, having obtained admittance into his
castle, retired to rest.

Though the vicinity of no town, perhaps, in Wales possesses a
greater variety of attractions than that of Dolgelley, my first visit
next morning was to Nannau Park, the seat of Sir Robert Williams
Vaughan. The house stands on an eminence, and the road thither
from the town is one continued ascent. From various parts of it
I paused to enjoy the delightful views obtained over the Vale of the
Hazle, traversed in its whole extent by the river Wnion.

The grounds of Nannau are entered under a fine old gateway,
and, in approaching the house, at least a mile distant from the

\>\{i VVANI>F.niNOS ■niltOlIfJII NOUTII WALES.

(Mitninco to tlu» park, I passtMl iiloiif^ tlio sidi' of a litllo iniir-
nuiriii^ stream, and thr()u<;li a succession of romantic dingles,
covered with black-berry bushes, ivy, and moss. Tlie weather
being hot, it. was pleasant to pause from time to time under the
shades of the <;igantic old trees that tlun<r their gnarled boughs
over the road, the spaces between them being here and there filled
u|) bv an exuberant growth of underwood. Innumerable black-
birds, linnets, and other singing birds filled the air with music; and,
(>\('ept the buzzing of flies, rising in clouds from the copses, and
the rippling of the brook at uiy feet, no other sounds met the ear.
Nothing could be more rural or picturescpie, uiore calm or tranquil,
than the whole scene. In tlie foliage of the woods, there was all
that variety of rich tint produced by the intermingling of the oak,
the lime, the walnut, the laurel, the acacia, the ash, the fir, and
the beech, grouped and contrasted with infinite beauty.

' Dew-drops like diamonds hung on every tree,

And sprinkled silvery lustre o'er the lea;

And all the verdurous herbage of the ground

Was decked with pearls which cast a splendour round;

The flowers, the buds, and every plant that grew

Sipp'd the fresh fragrance of the morning dew.

In every plant the li(iuid nectar flowed,

In every bud, and every flower that blowed;

Here roved the busy bees without control,

liohbed the sweet bloom, and sucked its balmy soul.'

The gardens of Nannau are extensive, and laid out with much
tiiste. Owing, however, to the under gardener's entire ignorance
of the English language, and his superintendent being absent that
day, 1 probably lost nuich of the history of the grounds, which,
related with all that confident, unconscious prolixity known only
in the present day to this description of chroniclers, might havo
proved exceedingly amusing both to me aiul my readers. Still
made in his company the round of hothouses, greenhouses, &c.,
and greatly admired the number of beautiful exotics collected on

M

WANDERINGS TIinOUGH NOFITII WALKS. 217

this highest spot devot^id tr> agriculture in the kingdom. Here
and there in the gardens, the formation and laying out of which
were attended with extraordinary expense, are neat tablets, one
of which wa« set up as a warning by the proprietf>r, t/j commernf>-
rate the death of a servant, who, having swallowed four hundred
and forty plum stones, naturally enough lf>st her life.

The mansion Ls spacious and elegant ; but the chief attraction of
the spot, which h probably not exceeded in point of scenery by any
in the kingdom, lies in the beauty and the romantic trarJitions of
the parL In the higher part are the remains of a liritish [x^st,
noticed by all tourists, called Mod OrfJiruxiU) or the Hill of Oppres-
sion, having, proh>ably, as Pennant conjectures, been formerly held
by some tyrant ; and here, aW>, until lately, st^xxi an immense oak,
blasted and hollowed by time, in which, acc^jrding tr> [x>pular Ix^lief,
Owen Glendower concealed the Ixxiy of his treacherous cousin,
Howel Sele, who had been bribed to make an attempt u[xjn his
life, but who, failing in the attempt, is sup{x>sed U) have met with
the strange and horrible fate of l^>eing immured alive. Pennant
and Evans, with an unskilful application of their claJisical reading,
talk of Hamadryads, &C., in connection with the fatal traa, and
inform us that it was denominated ' the Hollow Oak, the \hi\ix\t
of Demons.' But the only demon known to the peasants of the
neighbourhood would be the ghofct of Howel Sele, or a Whitr;
Lariy, or the Little People, ai» they call the fairies.

In Pennant's time, the trunk of this patriarchal tree was twenty-
geren feet and a half in circumference ; it was in the last stage of
decay, and pierced by age into the form of a Gothic arch. Its end
is thus described by Sir llichard Colt Hffure : — ' During a viiiit U)
Sir Robert \'aughan, in the year I'ilG, this aged tree, mention wl
by Mr. Pennant, attracted my notice ; and, on the morning of the
1.3th July, I made a drawing of it, in one of the mfjtit sultry days
I ever felt; the succeeding night wa« equally hot, and on the same
night this venerable oak fell to the ground.'

In descending the hill leading towards Dolgelley, I enjoyed a

ij 2

218 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

magnificent view of the Alpine chain of Cader Idris, extending
from the north-east to the south-west, in a line parallel with the
shore. The mist still rested on the inferior heights, in some
places concealing their summits, in others stretching in slender
horizontal lines or masses along their slopes. All the adjacent
eminences are richly wooded, and though the trees, in most places,
are of recent planting, the appearance of the whole is no less
imposing than that of natural primeval forests. But for me, ' the
old hereditary trees,' which inspired the muse of Cowley, have a
charm no new plantations can boast ; and, as I retraced my steps,
the hills and groves of my boyhood, with youthful companions, no
longer at my side, rose in all the strength of reality before me;
and for the moment I gave way to one of those delightful day-
dreams in which the imagination will at times indulge as a kind of
set-ofF against the frowns of fate. Like a glow of sunset upon the
lake, for a few brief instants they disperse the black, deepening
shadows which portend the approach of night, and throw at least
a passing radiance upon our homeward path.

On my return to Dolgelley after my morning's ramble, mine host
of the Angel, who expected my arrival, welcomed me with an
excellent dinner. But from the number of queries I made about
the localities, I doubt not — from some of his John Bull kind of
remarks — that he thought me rather a suspicious character ; which
I dare say was further strengthened from the circumstance of my
midnight introduction to him, and being an entire stranger to the
district. However, he was very civil, and, after I had finished my
refection, proposed becoming my guide round the town. I could
not refuse so polite an offer, and presently sallied forth ' to see
what was to be seen.'

Dolgelley is encircled by mountains, and seated on the river
Wnion, here a broad, shallow stream, over which is a handsome
bridge of seven arches. It has a neat church, containing some old
monuments ; and a commodious county-hall, in which is a portrait
of Sir Robert Vaughan, by the President of the Royal Academy.

I

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 219

The picture, however, was suspended in so bad and even dark a
situation, that its merits may be said to be altogether lost.

The following morning promising a fine day, I determined on an
excursion over Cader Idris. This mountain is one of the most
lofty in Wales, and forms a part of the great chain of hills which
runs nearly parallel with the coast for many miles, in connection
with the Arrans and the Arrenigs. Proceeding over the hill which
leads to Towyn, I reached a small lake called Llyn y Gader; then,
turning to the left, commenced the ascent. Presently the pool
Llyn y Cae showed itself, situated among high rocks, whose
weather-beaten cliffs overhang the water. After great labour for
three or four hours, and consequent fatigue, I reached the summit;
but thick mists, wafted from the sea, prevented an extended view.
Mr. Aikin has enriched his narrative with a description of the
grand and picturesque scene he witnessed, the following extract
from which leaves nothing to be desired : — ' We were now above all
the eminences within a vast expanse, and as the clouds gradually
cleared away, caught some grand views of the surrounding country.
The huge rocks, which we before looked up to with astonishment,
were now far below our feet, and many a small lake appeared in
the valleys between them. To the north, Snowdon and its depen-
dencies shut up the scene ; on the west, we saw the whole curve of
the bay of Cardigan, bounded at a great distance by the Caernarvon
mountains, and nearer, dashing its white breakers against the rocky
coast of Merioneth. The southern horizon was bounded by Plinlim-
mon, the bay of Swansea, the channel, peeping through the opening
of the Brecon mountains ; and on the east, the eye glanced over
the lake of Bala, the two Arrenig mountains, the two Arrans, and
the long chain of Berwyn mountains, to the Breiddin hills on the
confines of Shropshire. Dimly, in the distant horizon, was beheld
the Wrekin, rising alone from the plain of Salop.'

At the foot of the mountain is the romantic little village of Tal
y Llyn, which borrows its name from the church at the head of the
lake, not unmeetly denominated by the people 'the Charming

220 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

Retreat.' The church — a simple antique building — is dedicated
to St. Mar}'. The parish extends about eight miles, embracing in
its circuit a large portion of the mountainous chain. The whole
vicinity, wood, and hill, and lake — stirred by the winds, or clothed
with the yellow hues of autumn — wore a highly picturesque yet
di-eary aspect; and I took incessant delight in exploring a number
of bold, romantic streams and falls, all within the limits of this
interesting district. Tal y Llyn is assuredly one of the most
beautiful of lakes, and deserves all the eulogy bestowed upon it
by the popular voice. It extends two miles in length and one in
breadth; part of its boundary consists of highly cultivated pas-
tures, rendered more picturesque from the circumstance of the
higher land, which extends half way up the mountain, affording a
noble sheep walk. This lake is the property of Colonel Vaughan,
a gentleman to whose courtesy and good nature strangers, no less
than friends, are indebted for the amusement of a day's angling at
pleasure, and if they prefer a sail, there is a boat at hand for their
accommodation. Few waters furnish a better supply of trout and
eels — the latter considered a great delicacy, owing to the peculiar
nutriment they find in the deep coating moss of the bottoms.
Here are both the lake and the conmion river-trout, the last of
which come with the streams springing from the mountains.
They are chiefly taken with the fly, and vary in size from one half
to two pounds each.

A walk of about seven miles, through highly picturesque and
delightful scenery, conducts the tourist to the ancient town of
Machynlleth, situated on the road leading to Aberystwith, and
near the confluence of the rivers Dulas and Dovey. It is the
centre of the woollen manufacture, and does considerable business
in tanning, — occupations singularly at variance with its former
military reputation. It was once the Maglona of the Romans,
and had a lieutenant stationed to awe the mountaineers. About
two miles distant, near Penalt, is a spot denominated Cefn Caer,
where many Roman coins have been found, and the traces are still
visible of an old circular fortification.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 221

The spacious entrance to the Senate-house, now degraded into a
stable, denotes a more honourable occupancy in past times. It was
here the active Glendower, summoning the nobles and gentry, ad-
vanced his title to the newly conquered Principality. Among
these came Sir David Gam, who, though related to the heroic chief,
conceived the base design of assassinating him in a private con-
ference. He was discovered, and would have been instantly put to
death, but for the intercession of powerful friends. He escaped on
condition of joining the Welsh cause; but the double traitor again
turning against his magnanimous countryman, Owen kept him in
close confinement at Machynlleth, and burnt his house to the
ground. On his escape he took refuge in the English Court,
attended Henry V. in his wars, and, on the eve of the battle
of Agincourt, on returning form reconnoitring the enemy, he
informed the King, that 'there were enough to kill, enough to
be made prisoners, and enough to run away.'

The Town-hall is a plain, convenient building, erected by the
late Sir W. W. Wynn, in which courts leet are held twice in the
year. Few Welsh towns have kept pace with the spirit of modern
improvement more than Machynlleth, of which the new road to
Towyn, which offers many beautiful and picturesque views, is not
the least proof. The portion between Penal and Aberdovey, in
particular, cut out of the solid rock, abounds in delightful prospects
of the Cardigan coasts, and of the sea stretching far beyond.

Leaving Machynlleth, I pursued the road leading to Llanidloes
for about six miles, passing a hill called Fadin, and then turning
to the right over dreary moors, came to a large sheet of water,
known by the name of Glas Llyn — the blue lake. It was my inten-
tion to walk over the wastes as far as the mountain of Plinlimmon,
in order to explore the source of the river Wye ;* but the weather

* It is my intention, in a future part of this work, to give a description of the varied and
exquisite scenery of the river Wye. Comprehending many renowned works of art, which
give additional interest to sublime and interesting views, the coldest observer cannot fail
being delighted with this romantic stream, here quietly gliding between luxuriant foliage-
there fantastically meandering over its rocky bed.

222 , WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

becoming tempestuous, and being unacquainted with the localities,
I judged it more prudent to postpone my excursion until a more
suitable opportunity occurred, and proceed to Dinas Mowddy,
rather than run the chance of remaining in a bog during the
night.

Dinas Mowddy is an insignificant town, picturesquely situated on
the declivity of a rock, not far from the river Cerrist at its conflux
with the Dovey. It has only one long street, and the houses are
low and meanly built. One of its chief buildings is the ' Plas,' or
mansion, — or, in other words, the manor-house of the lordship, —
which, I was told, belonged from an early period to the Myttons of
Halston, but had been more recently purchased by Mr. Bird, of
Birmingham. The approach to Dinas Mowddy, from Mallwyd, is
rendered more striking by the sudden appearance of the town at
the junction of three valleys, each of which is enclosed by majestic
hills. Its great charm, indeed, is the novel and romantic character
of the surrounding scenery.

This large estate, the manorial rights of which extend over thirty
thousand acres, was possessed for several centuries by the Mytton
family. Many years ago a lead mine was worked upon the moun-
tain called Craig Gwyn, but soon abandoned on account of water
filling up the workings, which, for want of proper machinery, could
not be removed. Since Mr. Bird purchased the estate, he has
employed a mineral surveyor to examine the mountains, and to
ascertain what they contain.* At the foot of Craig Gwyn, and
extending upwards, is one of the largest slate deposits in the

* At the old mine of Craig Gywn the vein or load appeared so broad, and the quality
of the lead so rich, that a party of gentlemen last year formed themselves into a company,
with a capital of £20,000, to work this mine effectually. They have driven two new adits
lower down the mountain to drain the water from the old workings, and cut the great
vein which crops out on the top. The works are successfully progressing, and the lead on
analysis is proved to contain twenty-five ounces of fine silver, and twelve cwt. of pure
lead in every ton of ore. There is a company formed in London to work the slate
quarries, who have also projected a railway of seventeen miles to the coast near
Barmouth.

I

\

4

4

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 223

kingdom, denominated primitive clay roofing slate. In various
parts, metallic veins have been discovered, which, I understand,
the present proprietor intends shall not lie neglected. There are
some hopes, therefore, that the poor, insignificant town of Dinas
Mowddy may, in a few years, become a flourishing place, and
the centre of a new mining district.

That facetious member of the Antiquarian Society, Mr. Wm.
Hutton, visited this neighbourhood nearly half a century ago,
and published the following remarks : — ' The situation of Dinas
Mowddy is romantic, singular, and beautiful, upon a small flat
made by nature and improved by art, on the declivity of a
mountain prodigiously elevated, on the left descending to the
town, and on the right, continuing the same steep down to the
river Dovey, which washes its foot. The road winds round the
hill in the shape of a bow, and the houses take the same curve.
Curiosity led me to count the houses, which were forty-five. One
of these, by far the best, is worth, at a fair rent, perhaps fifty
shillings per annum. In most of the houses I perceived the
inhabitants could not injure themselves by falling down stairs.
Although in England I appeared like other men, yet at Dinas
Mowddy I stood single. The people viewed me as a phenomenon,
with countenances mixed with fear and enquiry. Perhaps they
took me for an inspector of taxes; they could not take me for
a window-peeper, for there were scarcely any to peep at, and the
few I saw were in that shattered state which proved there was
no glazier in the place. Many houses were totally without glass.
Ambition here seems wholly excluded. The dress of the inhabi-
tants changes not; it is made for use, not show. That of the
softer sex, I was told, is a flannel shift. I did not see the
smallest degree of smartness in the apparel even of the younger
females. One of the curiosities I saw was a goat feeding, much
at ease, upon the ridge of a house. Perhaps the people within did
not fare much better than the goat without. Returning, well
pleased with my visit, I remarked to my landlord at Mallvvyd, a

V2J4 WANDERINOS TIinOUGII NORTH WALES.

civil, intelligent man, that I could not conceive the whole property
of the united inhabitants of the celebrated town exceeded six hun-
dred pounds. * I can tell you to a trifle,' said he, ' for I know
every one of them well.' After a short pause he replied, ' It does
not exceed two hundred and forty pounds ! ' If care be the con-
comitant of wealth, these people must be happy ; and their circum-
scribed style of existence seems to declare it. I saw neither a
beggar nor a person in rags.'

Intending to visit Barmouth, and, in my way there, the Abbey
of Kimmer, at Llanilltyd, I bent my steps again towards Dolgelley
through some remarkably bold and magnificent scenery, presenting
extensive views to the left, while the great mountain of Craig
Gwyn towered on the right. It was in this neighbourhood that
the inhabitants of the district, after the death of Llewellyn, met
together to form compacts for enforcing virtue and order. The
road into Dolgelley is a descent for about a mile, from the
upper part of which the town has a remarkably neat and rural
appearance.

CHAPTER XVII.

KYJIMER ABBEY, LLANILLTYD, BARMOUTH, DOLYMELYNLLYN, TRAWSFYNYDD, &C.

'TwAs that delightful season, when the broom,
Full flowered, and visible on every steep,
Along the copses runs in veins of gold.

fFordsivorth.

Oh ! beautiful those wastes of heath.

Stretching for miles to lure the bee,
Where the wild bird, on pinion strong.
Wheels round and pours his piping song,

And timid creatures wander free.

Mary Howitt.

One of the pleasant circumstances attending my autumnal ' Wan-
derings/ was the delightful weather I enjoyed — sky and air such
as could not fail to delight a pedestrian's heart — with clear, mellow
days, and serene, refulgent nights, which painted the scenes before
me in a thousand brilliant hues, and under a continual variety of
form and aspect. To have studied the beauties of the foliage, or
the vales and lakes, in the mild splendour of the season's fall,
when the harvest queen ' filled her horn with new-born light,'
would of itself have afforded ample return for lonely walks, and
some toil and adventure, which brought me in view of those more
sequestered and wildly beautiful spots which in Wales often greet
the eye of the enthusiast of nature. Nor was the pleasure
diminished by thus coming oftener in contact with the primitive
character and pastoral habits of the people, their appearance and
their manners, yet highly national amidst so many changes, and
upon which, without destroying their form and their simplicity,
the genius of improvement is happily engrafting new ideas, and,

e2

226 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

with more general education and improved prospects, still better
institutions. Reflections on the future, which I indulged by the
way-side, were thus far from an unpleasant nature; and the recol-
lection of what I had seen, and the onward impulse towards yet
greater improvements, struck me more forcibly at every step.

From Dolgelley and its romantic neighbourhood, I passed up
the old road, over a very steep hill, and turned my steps towards
the singularly picturesque and ancient monastic ruin called Y
Vanner, or Kymmer Abbey. Viewed in combination with the
rich diversity of objects presenting themselves along the banks of
the Mawddach, the approach to this time-worn monument of
vanished ages has something strangely sombre and impressive.
Above, in the distance, towers the dark rock of Moel Orthrwn;
below, several valleys, watered by the intermingling of different
streams, their banks studded with neat and elegant residences;
on one side appears the bridge — the modest church, and on the
other extends the rich flat ground on which stand the relics of the
antique abbey. Only a portion of the church is now to be seen ;
the great hall, or refectory, and a part of the abbot's residence, have
resigned their more costly and spiritual charge for the less digni-
fied, but not less necessary, avocations of a fann-house. The east
side is in the best state of preservation, and through its close
mantle of ivy may be perceived the small narrow windows peculiar
to old religious edifices. I observed, also, some rather minute
Gothic pillars and arches against the south wall, and an aperture, in
which, probably, was preserved the holy water. On the same side
appears to have been a semicircular door, opposite to two small
arches, and near them is seen a fragment of a statue representing
the head of a human figure. The space of ground within the
walls is more than usually circumscribed.

According to Mr. Vaughan, the antiquary, it was founded by the
grandsons of Owen Gwynedd ; the monks were of the Cistercian
order, and the abbey dedicated to the holy Virgin. It may be
said of her priests, as of the humbler rustics by whom they were

I
I

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 'i^?

surrounded, that tradition has not commemorated ' their homely
joys and destiny obscure,' any more than the astonishing cures or
miracles which they wrought under the auspices of their lady-
patroness, — but few having the good fortune of the gentle Saint
Winefred. The charter of the abbey offers a striking instance of
the superstition of the age, and those delusions to which the minds
of princes are equally subjected with that of the rudest peasant.
The most ample grants, ' authority over lakes, rivers, and seas ; all
kinds of birds and beasts, wild or tame ; mountains, woods, things
moveable and immoveable ; every thing upon or under the lands
contained in the deed, with full liberty of digging for hidden
treasures,' are among the privileges of the good brethren of old.
An antiquarian of great celebrity likewise observes, with reference
to their good taste, that 'the abbey is situated in as pleasant a spot
as ever he saw. It was, in short, a colony of monks sent away as
bees are when the hive is too full. But, idle as they were, the old
monks were men of exquisite taste.'

Proceeding along the banks of the river, I passed the bridge, and
entered the pretty village of Llanilltyd, pleasantly situated on the
banks of the Mawddach, in the hundred of Ardudwy, containing a
number of good houses. The parish extends in different directions
several miles, embracing in its circuit the ancient abbey already
noticed; but so few traces of its once noble castle remain, that its
very site is uncertain. It is considered the port to its more im-
portant neighbour.

The most exquisite natural charm is ever heightened by a sense
of moral beauty. In passing through a succession of those mild and
lovely, or bold, romantic districts, in which this part of Merioneth
so largely abounds, I felt a satisfaction not experienced in my
former excursions, as I contemplated the changes that had already
taken place, and those more important and salutary ones fast
approaching, which, added to its exterior embelUshments and im-
provements, must confer a moral and intellectual dignity upon the
country, more gratifying to the eye of the observer than even her

228 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

picturesque falls and streams, or the splendour of her vales and
woodlands. The spirit of freedom, industry, and an era better
adapted to develope the intellectual energies of the Welsh, was
evidently at work, preparing the social mind for some higher and
more advanced state of civilisation. I marked a self-respect, a de-
gree of courtesy and propriety, in the demeanour of the labouring
classes, I had not hitherto beheld. New sources of employment,
and both rural and com^mercial activity, were producing increased
prosperity through the leading districts of the Principality. The
enterprising spirit, also, of the public men, — seeking new channels
for the investment of capital, leading to an union and extension of
interests, led by persons of wealth and influence, at the head of
whom names like the Marquis of Anglesea, Lord Mostyn, Lord
Clive, Sir W. W. Wynn, Lord Dinorben, Sir Robert Vaughan,
Mr. Smith, Mr. Pennant, and others of large mining or landed
property, seemed to guarantee success, — was a farther earnest of
its rapid progress in the race of modern improvement. The
patronage of new agricultural societies, those for the diffusion of
education and the Scriptures, with the revival of some of the
old bardic meetings, and others of a more modern, learned, and
literary character, bore equal evidence of that zeal and persever-
ance in the higher classes, so intimately connected with the welfare
of the people at large.

The vale of Llanilltyd can boast of beauties peculiar to itself;
and it is to this distinctive feature that so much of the charm
we still find in the recurrence of valleys, streams, and woodlands,
still unexhausted, is chiefly to be referred. Here, as I saw it, at the
close of autumn, — with the murmurs of the river, the sound of the
dashing cataract loud on the ear, mingled with the whistling winds
from the mountain hollows, the richly diversified foliage assuming
still new lights and shadows with the varying clouds, the parting
sunbeams or gathering twilight, — it had more of the wild and
sombre than the beautiful, for which it has been so often extolled.
As I bent my steps along the sedgy banks of the brawling stream,

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 229

and marked the evening shadows lengthening upon the distant
heights, and the thin mist gradually shrouding the magnificent
prospects spread around, the thoughts of one of my favourite poets
rose fresh in my mind, recalled no less by their singular truth
and beauty, than by the hour and the scene.

It is just beyond this point the eye commands a prospect of
surpassing interest and loveliness, one which leaves nothing to be
desired with regard to picturesque effect. The broad waters of
the Mawddach open in front, often enlivened by skiffs and plea-
sure boats ; on both sides appear, agreeably alternated, a succession
of wooded eminences projecting into the estuary along the banks,
and producing a fine scenic illusion, by concealing the termination
of the river, giving it the appearance of a wide, extensive lake. To
the south, from beyond the banks, is beheld the vast, majestic cliffs
surrounding on all sides and half concealing the airy summit of
Cader Idris: from the bridge, a splendid variety of prospects,
stretching towards Maentwrog, as well as of the gloomy, yet pic-
turesque vale of Llanilltyd. It was here, and farther on the road
to Barmouth, that Mr. Warner was so much struck with the rich
diversity of landscape which he beheld. Suddenly turning upon
Pont Ddu, a stone bridge of one arch, spanning a furious torrent,
which, rushing from a dark, wooded glen, forms a beautiful cascade,
he proceeded about a mile farther, where the scene, assuming a
wholly different aspect, is suddenly changed. The mountains in
front, receding from the river, are replaced by rich green meadows,
while the stream, here widening and deepening, gives a new and
majestic feature to the prospect. Behind is caught the different
reaches and windings of the river, which at length loses itself in
the great waste of waters, together with the shaded hills that
confine it on one side, and the rocky precipices of Cader Idris
on the other.

The herds were grazing quietly along the banks; the white sail
was just seen bending its homeward path; and to the raving of the
autumnal blasts, which covered the streams and woodlands with

230 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

the fallen leaves, there succeeded a solemn stillness, — one of those
deep, calm pauses in the stir of life, and in the veiy air, which
momentarily is felt even in crowded cities, but which now, pur-
suing my lonely way along the vale, had a singularly unwonted
effect upon the mind. The feeling was more strongly impressed,
also, by contrast with the richly variegated views of hills and
streams which I had that morning beheld through the strong,
cle r light of a brilliant sunrise, and with a beautiful rainbow,
such as I had never before remarked, or even thought possible —
with its perfect reflection in the depth of its glorious hues upon
the hills, of which the declivities shone with all the mingled
colours of the radiant arch which spanned their majestic brows.

It was in a deeply moralising mood, then, on that evening, —
philosophically commenting upon the ever fresh and varying aspect
of external nature, and how strangely it appeals to the heart,
presenting so true a type of man's change and destiny, — that I
approached Pont Ddu, on my road to the romantic seaport of
Barmouth. Upon my left flowed the bright river; the towering
summits of the giant Idris — almost baffling the sight — stretching
far beyond ; around and behind me lay the deepening, shadowy
vale; while to the right the bold hills presented the appearance
of huge mountain waves in the rolling mists and fast gathering
twilight. The silvery tints and beauty of the river, pursuing its
destined path, like the current of life, through the heart of these
wild and dreary mountains; the occasional views of woods, meadows,
and corn fields, intersected by some branch streams, and again the
wilder moor, the mountain hollow, the bushy dells, through which
is caught at intervals some flashing cataract, — made my walk along
the Mawddach most interesting.

Speaking of the road from Llanilltyd to Barmouth, Mr. Pratt
says, ' Its beauties are so manifold and extraordinary, that they
literally beggar description. New pastures of the most exuberant
fertility, new woods rising in the majesty of foliage, the road
itself curving in numberless unexpected directions, at one moment

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 2.11

shut into a verdant recess, so contracted that there seems neither
carriage nor bridle-way out of it : at another, the azure expanse of
the main ocean filling the eye. On one side rocks glittering in all
the colours of that beauty which constitutes the sublime., and of an
height which diminishes the wild herds that browse or look down
upon you from the summit, where the largest animal appears
insignificantly minute. On the other hand, plains, villas, cottages,
or copses, with whatever tends to forai that milder grace which
belongs to the beautiful.'

The entrance to Barmouth, or Abermaw, as it is designated from
its river, on the day I reached it, was particularly pleasant to me.
The weather was beautiful; the sunset in which I beheld the
surrounding landscape, and the far more splendid and magnificent
view of the bay and the sea stretching far beyond, was such as
I shall not easily forget.*

The river, taking its course to the south of the town, is here
divided into two channels, between which lies the little island
called Ynis Brawd, or the Friar's Island. I find this circum-
stance alluded to in the entertaining and accurate Itinerary of
Leland, who observes, in his own quaint manner, ' at the north of
Maw river lyeth a little islet, scant a bow shot over, withowte
habitation. At ebbe it is fresche water, and at fludde salt.' Thus
was formed the harbour, which anciently, we are told, before it
was inundated by the sea, occasioned by the shifting of the sands,
afforded pasturage for flocks and herds.

The houses are disposed in a singular, but not unpicturesque
manner, on the sides of an immense sloping rock, which shelters
them on the eastern side ; and whole rows appear standing on the
ledges, like shelves one above the other, and, in winding up the

* For the sake of the lover of etymology, it may be observed, that this name is derived
from that of Abermaw, abbreviated into Bermaw — a compound itself, formed from the
name of the river Mawddach, or Maiv and that of Aber, the conflux of the stream — and
again corrupted, for the sake of euphony, by us barbarous English, into the modern
sounding Barmouth.

232 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

narrow paths among the buildings, at different stages the inhabi-
tants may be seen standing at the doors, quietly looking over the
chimneys of their neighbours. The approach is by steps cut
through the rocks, and the floor of one range is nearly level with
that of the roof below it. There is consequently little necessity
for smoking in a population so situated — the lower tier regularly
regaling the one next above it with strong warm puffs — more
especially when the wind is in their favour. But the good people
of Barmouth only in part follow the scriptural injunction of ' build-
ing their houses on a rock,' for they show, also, a predilection for
the sand, and a street has been formed leading to the beach.

Barmouth is considered to the north-west part of the kingdom
much like Weymouth, and other fashionable watering places, are
to the south, and is resorted to during the summer months, not
only by numbers of families in the Principality, but many others
residing in the surrounding counties. It was, I understand, for
several years, the summer retreat of the late well-known and highly
respected gentleman, Mr. Wilberforce, and, also, of many other
eminent individuals. The bathing at all times is assuredly as
excellent as can be desired. The sands are very fine and hard,
extending along the beach for several miles. The restless tides
of the channel, dashing against the surrounding coast, produce
that constant and salubrious motion which is extended to the
waters of the bay. The accommodations for bathers have not
been, until lately, of the most approved kind. The parish church
is more than a mile from Baraiouth ; but for public convenience
a chapel of ease was erected by subscription six years ago, where
divine service is performed, in the English language, every Sunday.
There are, also, two convenient inns, — the Cors y Gedol Arms,
where warm sea water baths may be had, and the Commercial
Inn, besides a number of respectable lodging houses.

Barmouth is the chief haven in Merionethshire, but the entrance
to the port is dangerous from the incessant shifting of the sands,
particularly on the two banks called the north and south bars.

-J ii;n-in>'iF'j?ii:iflfr

WANDERINGS TIIKOUGH NORTH WALES. 233

To defend it from destruction by the tides, large hillocks of sand,
made firm and bound together by the friendly aid of two strin-
gent runners, the Arundo Arevaria and Elymus Arevaria, which,
spreading their long creeping roots, present a vegetable bulwark
sufficient to keep back the waves. The high mountains round
the harbour present the advantage to be derived from land-
marks, for steering inwards during foggy weather. A pier has
been constructed for increasing the depth of water, facilitating
the lading and unlading of cargos, and buoys are placed on each
bar, which tend to diminish the number of accidents arising from
sudden squalls and tempests. Spite of the natural disadvantages,
however, the people of the port contrive to carry on a pretty good
trade with Ireland and other parts ; the number of ships is
increasing, especially those employed in the coasting trade, con-
veying corn, butter, cheese, oak-bark, timber, and bringing back
coal, culm, and other articles for the use of the interior. The
manufacturers at one period suffered considerable loss by vending
their products through the factors, who reaped many of the
advantages which might have fallen to the lot of the natives.
Mr. Pennant observes, prior to the year 1781, 'that webs, flan-
nels, &c., to the value of forty thousand pounds, and stockings
to the amount of ten thousand, had been exported hence in one
year.'

Upon my return, taking the route of Mr. Bingley, so often
described by different tourists, I continued along the banks of the
Mawddach till I reached the road, beyond the beach, leading to
Dolgelley, made at a prodigious expense by blasting the rocks.
Few excursions can surpass the delightful walk among the moun-
tains back to Llanilltyd, where every thing is found that gives
a charm to pastoral beauty. The dense wood, the wild, over-
hanging pi'ecipice, the large, gloomy rocks, partially covered with
purple heath, — the bright river, with every other requisite for the
finest landscape, insulated or grouped in the most picturesque
masses, were all blended in a series of rich and varied prospects,

f2

•234 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

which could not fail to please the eye and charm the imagina-
tion of even the coldest observer. i

A walk of some two or three miles brought me to the pleasantly
situated and newly built inn at Ganllwyd, called the ' Oakley
Arms.' This house is erected close to the road leading from
Maentwrog to Dolgelley, and within a stone's throw of the roaring
river Mawddach. It is encircled by majestic hills, which were
then mostly covered with heath and fern in blossom, giving an
appearance of richness and beauty even to the most arid and
barren parts. Immediately before the house rises the mountain of
Penrhos, the river washing its base. On the right hand, appa-
rently at the end of the vale, appears Cafn Mawr; while behind,
as if to protect this charming retreat from the westerly gales, winds
the long and broad range of Craig Gau.

This little inn at Ganllwyd presents an admirable station for
the artist, the angler, and the lover of nature. It is, for the
hardy pedestrian, within an easy journey of numerous remarkable
points of scenery, embracing four lakes and six rivers, besides
numberless rippling mountain-streams, some of which abound with
cataracts or falls. A gentleman who was staying at this inn while
I was there, showed me, as a great curiosity, the handbill of a per-
son who was, for many years, a guide to the surrounding scenery.
The following is an extract from this facetious publication : —
' Robert Edwards, second son of the celebrated tanner, William
Edwards, ap Griffith, ap Morgan, ap David, ap Owen, ap Llewel-
lyn, ap Cadwaladar; great great great grandson of an illegitimate
daughter of the illustrious hero Sir Rice ap Thomas ! by Anne,
daughter of Howell ap Jenkin, of Ynys y Maesgwyn ; who was the
thirteenth in descent from Cadwgan, a lineal descendant of Bled-
dyn, ap Cynfyn, Prince of Powis. Since his nativity full two and
eighty times hath the sun rolled to his summer solstice ; fifty years
was he host of the Hen and Chickens ale-house. Pen y bont,
twenty of which he was apparitor to the late Reverend Father in
God, John, Lord Bishop of Bangor, and his predecessors; by

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

'235

chance made a glover, by genius a fly-dresser and angler. Is now
by the All-Divine assistance, conductor to and over the most
tremendous mountain, Cader Idris, to the stupendous cataracts of
Cayne and Mawddach, and to the enchanting cascades of Dol y
Melynllyn, with all its beautiful and romantic scenery.'

Dr. Mavor, who employed this oddity, says, in his tour, ' he is a
slender man, about five feet four inches in height, and notwith-
standing his advanced age, hopped and skipped about the room
with all the vivacity and agility of a school-boy. The manner
in which he expresses himself is as droll as his appearance. He
was dressed in a blue coat with yellow buttons, a pair of old boots,
and a cocked hat and feather of enormous size. His whole air
was military, though he had never been a soldier. He procured
several little horses. Nothing could be so amusing as to see the
guide, en militaire, with a long white rod in his hand, like another
Merlin, setting out on a full canter from the door of the inn, on
his Welsh poney, followed by a little cavalcade, who could scarcely
keep their seats for laughter. He talked much of curiosity-men^
meaning naturalists; and enumerated among his followers some
eminent names in science and literature; among the rest. Sir
Joseph Banks and the late Earl of Bristol.'

Highly gratified with the attention shown me at this neat and
inexpensive inn, — where, if the tourist does not find such costly
accommodation and varied fare as at the large hotels of the Prin-
cipality, he will yet receive the substantial cheer of eggs and bacon,
fowls, &c. with trout and salmon fresh from the river beside the
house, — I pursued my route along the high road to the fine estate
of Dolymelynllyn, which is nearly covered with forest trees and
primeval underwood. I was highly delighted with this luxuriant
and secluded place, where, I think, the beauties of forest scenery
exceed even the grandest parts of the park of Nannau. The oak,
lime, walnut, and ash, are of magnificent dimensions, but nothing
can exceed the beauty and exuberance of the acacia in this
neighbourhood. I had visited this sylvan retreat a few months

236 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

before, when spring was arraying the trees, shrubs, and flowers
in their early yet interesting and charming foliage. Then the
beautiful pastoral lines of the poet Clare often occurred to my
mind, — his exquisite descriptions freshening even the face of
natuie :

' Bowing adorers of the gale,
Ye cowslips delicately pale,

Upraise your loaded stems ;
Unfold your cups in splendour, speak !
Who decked you with that ruddy streak,

And gilt your golden gems?

* Violets, sweet tenants of the shade,
In purple's richest pride arrayed.

Your errand here fulfil;
Go bid the artist's simple stain
Your lustre imitate, in vain.

And match your Maker's skill.

* Daisies, ye flowers of lowly birth,
Embroiderers of the carpet earth,

That stud the velvet sod ;
Open to spring's refreshing air,
In sweetest smiling bloom declare

Your Maker and my God.'

Through the estate of Dolymelynllyn rolls the river Camlan,
which is one continued series of falls from its source, high among
the mountains, to its junction with the Mawddach in the valley
below. One of the larger falls (which, in reality, forms three
falls) is called the Rhaiadr Du, where the water tumbles over
rocks more than fifty feet in height, which, especially after heavy
rain, occasions a tremendous roar.* The surrounding scenery
is well wooded, and the rocks on each side of the rapid stream

* The writer is much obliged to the occupant of this property, I\Ir. U. Roberts, for his
attention, without which he would have had some difficulty in finding the falls.

■i:^s^:^'.'i^'-'i -:'v<

W.KAacvf^e

..-..ji*!^ .,-;^ _*.-»^aS#*.«».o~* .*■—" '^'w^

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 237

are mostly covered with white lichen. When the observer is
seated on the hill above the falls, the opposite mountain of
Penrhos is seen closing the extent of the vale. On this hill are
two copper mines, and on Vigra, Cae Mawr, Penrhos, and Doly-
frvvynog, are several others.

Passing over Pont Camlan, I regained the road towards Maen-
twrog, and crossed a bridge over a bold river, which I thought to
be the Mawddach. Here the country is richly wooded, and the
hazle, the hawthorn, the honeysuckle, and blackberry intermingle
in the hedges. A ramble of about two miles brought ine to the
noble cataract of the Mawddach, where the river foams over high
rocks, and where the scenery is exceedingly grand and picturesque.
Not far from this fall is another of greater extent, called Pistyll y
Cayne, but I did not see it to much advantage from a continuance
of dry weather. Viewed, however, from the summit of the hill,
with the magnificence of the prospect below, the rich, dark woods
and the bold hills, the scene at once rivets and enchants the eye.

Rambling on my solitary way towards Transfynydd, I was
considerably amused, on meeting the villagers and market women,
to observe their tenacious love of the large, round beaver hat,
the full sleeves, and dressy neck-kerchiefs. They looked cheerful
and happy, and were mostly engaged in knitting as they passed
by me; no bad example, I thought, to the young and old in other
countries.

As I proceeded, the scenery soon became changed for fea-
tures of a more sombre hue, with coarse, bleak heath, which
continued till I reached Transfynydd. Almost every village in
the Principality has some natural curiosity or remnant of antiquity,
which, in the eyes of a tourist, confers a degree of interest on
its neighbourhood, and Transfynydd is not, in this respect, without
its attractions. A common near it is traversed by a Roman
road, supposed to have been constructed by Helena, daughter of
a British prince, and wife of the Emperor Maximus. It is at
present only to be distinguished by its elevation above the general

238 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

level of the plain, being completely covered with turf; but on
digging, the several layers of stones with which it is formed are
easily discovered. Cromlechs, also, and carnedds are numerous
in the hills, which, though now bare, were anciently, in many
places, covered with forests of oak.

Arriving within about three miles from Maentwrog, I turned by
a cross road to the right for Ffestiniog. It was here I observed
a remarkable effect, — I might say, as regarded my own experience,
a natural phenomenon, though by no means considered so, I was
told, at this period of the year, in Wales, — that of the sky around
being heavy and black, with the clouds resting on the hills, while
the sun shone brightly on the wooded and green mountain of
Moelwyn, at a distance of four miles, — by which the perspective
illusion of every object appearing close to and clearly before the
eye was produced. Passing over Pont Cynfael, I soon reached
Ffestiniog, which is built on an eminence overlooking the pic-
turesque vale.

CHAPTER XVIII.

FFESTINIOG, BALA, LLANDRILLO, &C.

^

When at the peep of dawn

The traveller bounds, with active spirits light,
O'er the fresh meads, that round his path diffuse
Fragrance, gay hope attunes her fairy voice
Delightful, and the heart responsive beats
To the sweet cadence of her syren song ;
Thus light, at early dawn, my footsteps haste
Along the path-way stealing to the vale.

Sothehy.

Early the ensuing morning, I set out on a pedestrian excursion
to the deUghtful vale of Ffestiniog, taking the old road, which,
on one side, is bounded by a deep ravine, and on the other is
overgrown by firs, whose darkening shadow, with the whistling of
the autumnal blast from the hollow of the hills, sweeping the
falling leaves across my path, communicated a peculiarly gloomy
r air to the landscape, contrasting strangely with the glowing tints of
the dawn, the warbling of birds, and the sounds of rural industry or
mirth. A noble sunrise and a brightening sky augured one more
of those enviable days I had hitherto enjoyed; yet I had gone but
a little way before a heavy mist — half fog, half rain — came driving
up the distant valley, and in a few minutes completely enveloped
the whole scene as in a cloud. In the hope it would as quickly
pass, I took shelter under a hedge, where, however, I found myself
in an ant's nest, and not relishing their extreme familiarity, and
seeing no prospect of the weather clearing up, I was fain to push
forward, feeling, though for the first time, not in the best possible
humour with pedestrianism.

240 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

Before proceeding far I was considerably perplexed by discover-
ing a cross-road without finger-posts, and while pausing in doubt
which path to take, a young wild bull came dashing down the
ravine, as though, in his fury, he would put an end an once to all
my earthly dilemmas. Fortunately, he reserved his strength for a
a more equal antagonist — for I was completely unarmed — and,
passing me by, merely suggested, with a bellow, the propriety of
carrying on all future excursions an iron-headed staff, like the
naboot of the Arabs, which I earnestly recommend to all pedes-
trians in all countries where bulls, mad dogs, and other dan-
gerous animals may chance to put the way-farer's courage — if
not his life — in jeopardy.

Pedestrian miseries, however, which fly before a gleam of sun-
shine— a shepherd's path, if lost among the hills, — the smoke of
some distant cottage, or the village spire at evening's fall, — are not
the most difficult to be borne ; and, as I advanced, the sight of
the far-swelling hills, — the sunlit summits towering beyond, — the
silvery Dwyryd stealing along luxuriant fields and meadows, — the
lofty wooded mountains, which flank the sides of the opening vale,
all conspired to awaken emotions only the more pleasurable from
the passing gloom of the morning.

I had already beheld the valley so much extolled by Lord
Lyttelton — and, indeed, by every one who has described it — from
different points, and under every variety of aspect. The approach
to it from the gloomy wildness of Aberglasslyn, the road winding
far under overhanging precipices, is full of beauty, rendered more
novel and pleasing from its singular contrast. I had looked upon
its glittering stream, when at the full, from the bold eminence
below which it lies embosomed, whence the white sail could
scarcely be discovered, and the fishermen on its banks became but
a mere speck. I had beheld it more nearly in its lovely features,
from the pleasant inn at Tan y Bwlch — from the bridge at Maen-
twrog, and the bold acclivities above — along the banks of the
meandering river, and, not the least, from its elevated and

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 241

salubriously situated hamlet of Ffestiniog. But under no view
had it presented itself, as a whole, in so charming a combination
of objects, and in all its softer and most attractive features, as
when I then beheld it about a mile below Maentwrog; its rock-
strewn, sedgy banks, the lake-like waters of the Traeth, its wooded
prospects, its picturesque objects, and white edifices upon the
acclivities, half hidden by groves of rich and varied foliage, with
the more boldly variegated hills rising above hills swelling into
the distance. It was here, I thought, while contemplating the
repose and beauty of the scene, that the idea of a retired life
had charms even for the breast of a peer. < With the woman
one loves,' says Lord Lyttelton to his friend Mr. Bower, 'one
might pass an age in this vale, and think it a day. If you have a
mind to live long and renew your youth, come and settle at Ffes-
tiniog. Not long ago there died in this neighbourhood an honest
Welsh farmer, who w-as one hundred and five years of age. His
youngest son was eighty-one years younger than his eldest, and
eight hundred persons, his lineal descendants, attended his funeral.'
The salubrity of this particular district might be recommended by
numerous other authorities. Mrs. Jane Price, who resided in this
neighbourhood, was at the period of her decease surrounded by
twelve children, forty-seven grand-children, and thirteen great
grand-children.

More than once, also, from its peculiar site and pleasant aspect,
the vale of Ffestiniog has not undeservedly, by those who have
observed the characteristic features of both, been compared with
the more celebrated vale of Tempo. But it stands in need of
no classical resemblances to enhance its natural beauties, when
beheld, richly wooded and finely w^atered, in the glowing hues of
autumn, when the departing sun, illumining the surrounding
peaks, reflects a radiant light upon the scene, which may well
remind the traveller of the most lovely spots which he has ever
visited in other lands. It is then that the little hamlet and the
church of Maentwrog, situated midway on the declivity of its

g2

242 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

verdant eminence, appear with most picturesque effect, and the
river Dwyryd, fed by the Cynfael and another neighbouring
mountain-torrent, gives a silvery splendour to the prospect, com-
bined with all that variegated beauty which is seen in no other
Cambrian vale. From its site at the head of the vale, the village
of Ffestiniog offers a delightful sojourn for the stranger anxious
to explore the peculiar beauties of the neighbouring scenery.
The Traeth Bychan, or the small sands, are chiefly produced
by the river which waters this pleasant vale, and which becomes
navigable a short distance below Maentwrog.

Upon the northern side, on a lofty eminence, rises Tan y Bwlch-
hall, a handsome mansion, surrounded by those extensive woods
already mentioned, which give so distinctive a feature to this
district, presenting a marked contrast to the bleak, barren tracts
extending beyond in the direction of Pont Aberglasslyn. Here, as
well as in the country about Tan yr Allt, the progress of agricul-
tural improvement was sufficiently observable. The late proprietor,
like Mr. Haddocks, by means of extensive embankments, recovered
much valuable property from the inundations which, at spring-tides,
usurped the richest tracts of the vale, and, by subsequent draining,
converted the spongy soil of which it is chiefly composed into a
rich, productive loam. This laudable undertaking, instead of
having deteriorated the picturesque effect of the surrounding land-
scape, appears to have given fresh life and beauty to the whole
scene, as the terrace-walks, gardens, shrubberies, and small canals
— formed by the large drains — seem to blend naturally with the
localities of the soil. The vale itself is barely three miles in
length, the broadest portion of it not exceeding one.

Near the village of Ffestiniog (the 'place of hastening') are the
falls of the Cynfael. The way to them lies across the fields, in
a pretty direct line from the front of the inn, and then winds
through a wood to the first fall, the distance being about half a
mile. The upper one rushes over three projections of dark rock,
which rise like stairs one above another. It is surrounded by trees,

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 243

intermingled with huge pieces of rock ; while the darkness and soli-
tude of the place are increased by branches overhanging the rapid
stream from each of its banks. A few yards lower down, rises a
bold columnar rock, called Pulpit Hugh Lloyd Cynfael, or Hugh
Lloyd's Pulpit; passing which, and crossing the river by means of
a rustic stone bridge, within five minutes' walk is seen the second
fall. It is much less extensive than the other, and precipitates
itself in a broad stream down a shelving rock about forty feet in
height. It then bounds along a narrow chasm, and, struggling
among the many-coloured rocks, reflects a variety of tints as it
falls from slope to slope, till, finding a more even bed, it at length
meanders quietly through the vale and mingles with the waters of
the bay.

The surrounding prospect, from the hills, is indeed magnificent,
and I found Lord Lyttelton's description of it at once graphic and
correct. ' The morning being fair, I ventured to climb to the top
of a mountain, not, indeed, so high as Snowdon, which is here
called Moel Gwdion, but one degree lower than that called Moel
Hebog, or Hill of the Hawk, from whence I saw a phenomenon,
new to my eyes, but common in Wales ; on the one side was mid-
night, on the other bright day. The whole extent of Snowdon, on
our left, was wrapt in clouds from top to bottom; on the right,
the sun shone most gloriously over the sea-coast of Caernarvon.
The hill on which I stood was perfectly clear, the way I came
up was a tolerably easy ascent ; but before me was a precipice of
many hundred yards, and below a vale which, though not culti-
vated, has much savage beauty, — the sides were steep and fringed
with low wood. There were two little lakes, or rather large pools
which stood in the bottom, whence issued a rivulet which serpen-
tined in view for two or three miles, offering a pleasing relief to
the eye.'

The vicinity, like that of most of the Cambrian wilds and fast-
nesses, when under the dominion of the native princes and heads
of tribes, was more than once made subservient to purposes of

'244 WANDERINGi; THROUGH NORTH WALES.

treacheiy and revenge. Howel, one of the kings of North Wales,
had, it appears, two uncles — lago and Edwal Vychan. The former
having married Helen, he, on that or some other trivial ground,
had him cast into prison; and the latter he caused to be murdered
in cold blood. Constantino, called the Black, the son of lago,
being instigated by his mother to seek revenge for his father's
wrongs, on reaching manhood, raised an army of Welsh and Danes,
(in 979) and invaded the tyrant's dominions. While returning
through Caernarvon towards Ffestiniog, his heroic mother led the
van, and he brought up the rear. Having gone about eight miles,
he came to a defile, bounded by two mountains, Mynidd Vawr on
the right, upon which stood castle Cedwm, and Moel Elyan on the
left, a narrow pass, forming one of the outgards to the entrance
into Snowdon, and the channel of a small river flowing from the
lake Cwellyn at the foot of Snowdon. So closely do the mountains
here approach each other, that there is barely space for a single
passenger. Young Constantine had nearly cleared the defile, when
suddenly an arrow, from an unknown hand, arrested his path :
* Are you wounded?' cried a voice, which came from the summit of
the castle that rose from the adjacent hill. ' I am !' replied the
young prince, as he drew the arrow from the wound. ' Then you
are a dead man,' answered his treacherous cousin — for it was
Howel, — ' the arrow is poisoned and sent by me.' It was speedily
fatal, and the tidings far too speedily reached the ear of her who
had spurred him on to the enterprise, and who on receiving it, is
said to have exclaimed, in her sorrow, ' This is a cross hour ! ' and
it is farther averred that the side gate, at which she stood, still
bears the name to this day of Cross Hour.

I made an excursion from Ffestiniog to the grand cataract and
glen called Rhaiadr Cwm. This rude and stupendous scene is
observed from the road leading towards Yspytty Evan and Pentre
Foelas ; but, to appreciate its sublimity, the tourist should descend
the mountain, which, however, is almost an unfrequented solitude,
although the neighbouring roads have recently been much im-

I

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. '245

proved. Seen, as I had the opportunity, in the deepening shadows
of a calm autumnal evening, with the clouds rising over the heights
above, the immensity of the rocks, and the wildness of the scene,
gave rise to feelings of wonder and surprise. Scrambling over
the heath and rocks, I reached an angle of a cliff, midway in the
ascent, where the grandeur of the surrounding scenery cannot fail
to interest the timid observer, who, perhaps, would not dare to
venture lower into the glen. The little stream is noticed, in its
almost perpendicular course, sparkling over the rocks, after which
it dashes its crystal waters through the obstructions of the vale.
The surrounding mountains are bleak and precipitous, and the
vale, heathy and barren, appears more striking after viewing the
rich and varied landscapes in the vale of Ffestiniog.

I pursued my way to Bala over hills and moors presenting a
number of bold and splendid views, especially of the lakes and
rivers, which present themselves on successive openings. The
varying aspect under which the Bwlch y Buarth and Arrennig
mountains were presented to the eye, the more distant heights
fading in the clouds, the river, which, gliding at the foot of its
parent hills, at length blends with the adjacent lake, altogether
wanted little of the sublime features of Alpine prospects to impress
the mind of the beholder.

Bala, and its fine, expansive lake, have attractions peculiar to
themselves. To appreciate them as they deserve, the tourist should
first ascend the craggy summit of the neighbouring mountain, and
gaze upon the rude glens beyond, through which the boisterous
Twrch rushes in a succession of resounding falls. It is by con-
trasting the wilder and fiercer tracts of the landscape with its
milder features round the quiet hamlet and smooth unvarying lake,
that we add fresh zest to the interchange of feelings ever open to
the Cambrian traveller, and which, perhaps, made Lord Lyttelton
here so sensible of the superior beauty of the women, when he
observes that he saw, at Bala, some of the prettiest girls he ever
beheld. And for the same reason, I perfectly agree with him in

246 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

I

extolling, not only the inanimate beauties of the place, but the coun-
tenances of the women, no less than the character of the country
round the lake, Mhich reminded me much of English scenery — that
of the English lakes, with the wooded slopes, and calm glassy surface
of Windermere. Rather singularly, also, the lake of Bala is known
by the name of Pimblemert'; it is the most extensive in Wales,
embracing more than four miles in length, three quarters of one in
breadth, and lies some distance south of the town. Its utmost
depth is said to be about forty feet; and it is one of the few
traditions of the neighbourhood that the Dee, like the Rhone
with respect to the lake of Geneva, flows directly through without
losing its stream or mingling its waters with those of the lake.
One curious proof adduced is said to be that salmon found in the
river are never found in the lakes, but this is thought to be no
conclusive argument, from the fact that fish, as well as birds, seek
out by instinct the haunts most agreeable to them, and most
convenient for food and shelter. The water of the lake is said
to be so pure, that the nicest chemical tests can detect scarcely any
quantity of foreign admixture.

Be it as it will, the lake has abundance of pike, perch, trout,
and roach, with shoals of a sort of fish called gwyniad, from the
extreme whiteness of its scales. It is a gregarious fish, often found
in the Alpine lakes, more especially those of Switzerland. Its
weight rarely exceeds four pounds, and its flavour is by many
persons considered rather insipid ; a circumstance that by no means
recommends the gallantry of the noble author already mentioned,
when he assures his friends that it is so exquisitely delicate as to
more than rival in flavour the lips of the fair maids of Bala
themselves. From this unmeasured strain of encomium, I suspect
that Lord Lyttelton has here been describing that pearl of all lake-
fish, the white char; and, if as uiu'ivalled in relish as that which I
once eat at Battermere, I could join his lordship in any degree of
praise short of that by which he tries to give a superlative idea of
its sweetness. But being so very good, and, like the ladies of Bala,

i

m

I

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 247

perhaps, sensible of their attractions, these fish have the shrewdness
to keep out of harm's way, as we are told, by remaining at the
bottom of the water, where they feed on small shells and aquatic
plants, from which no bait but that of a deep-plumbed, irresistible
net can induce them to emerge. In former times the fishery is
stated to have formed part of the possessions attached to Basing-
werk Abbey, but has since fallen into the hospitable hands of
that public-spirited and hearty friend of the Principality, Sir
Watkin Williams Wynn, Baronet, who has pitched his tent, in
the shape of a neat hunting-box, quite according to the Irish rule,
' convaniant to the spot.'

Though now so calm and beautiful, — reflecting all the quiet and
clearness of the heavens upon its breast, as the swallow skimmed
its glassy surface, and the wild-fowl sought their home in its little
bays and creeks, — the aspect of Bala Lake, when the storm is up,
and ' the winter wild ' puts on his teiTors, can assume a very
different kind of beauty. To see it when the autumnal winds
ruffle its broad expanse with billows, or the clouds discharge their
contents as fiercely as the torrent from the hills, — when the drifting
rack and snow-storm mingle the last leaves of the year with the
scattered beauty of the meads and gardens, the observer can no
longer recognise the least resemblance in the characteristics of the
two landscapes — the Bala of the opposite seasons.

Upon the north-east side, the water sometimes rises many feet
above its usual level. When the winds and the rains, as I was
informed, « meet and combine the whole of their forces,' it is a
grand sight to see the lake overshoot its banks, and rush far beyond
into the noble valley of old Edeirnion. Once, in the month of
June, 1781, a part of the vicinity is believed to have been inun-
dated by one of those singular occurrences — the bursting of an
overcharged cloud, called a water-spout, which, however frequently
beheld at sea, seldom visits the earth. It was attended by terrific
lightning and continuous rain, which caused the Twrch — fed by
torrents from the Bwlch y Groes hills — to overflow and sweep

248 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

every thing before it. The spoils of fields and villages, and even
human life, marked the progress of the flood ; and as far as Ruthin
the rising of the rivers suddenly burst on the ear of the affrighted
people. The scene round Bala is described by one of the oldest
inhabitants as heart-rending and terrific. The deep and dismal
chasm, spanned by the one-arched bridge of Llyn Dyffws, through
which the resounding torrent of the Glyn pours its flood down the
wildest rocky falls, exhibited a magnificent sight, swelled by the
mountain rains into one immense volume of foaming cataract,
which again bursting from its black and caverned bed through the
deep wooded glens beyond, rolled its unusual mass of burdened
torrents to join the waters of the Dee. Huge branches, and some
of the large forest-trees themselves, which threw a gloomier shadow
over the stormy scene, were uprooted by the maddening torrents
and launched into the yawning deep. The lake rose with the
impulse of the storm till it assumed the aspect of a wild and restless
sea, keeping stern music with the crashing of the neighbouring
woods and the whistling of the blast, while, drowning the roar of
the torrent, the thunder ever and anon startled the ear, and lurid
flashes opening the sky exhibited for a moment the troubled
firmament to view.

CHAPTER XIX.

LLANDRILLO, WELSHPOOL, FOWIS CASTLE, MONTOOMERT, &C,

Nature here

Wantons as in her prime ; and plays at will
Her virgin fancies, pouring forth more sweets,
Wild above rule or art.'

Quitting Bala, and its expansive lake and scenery, differing so
much from all other Cambrian llyns and glens, I proceeded by
p. the side of the river Dee till I reached the village of Llandrillo.
It was about a mile hence that Mr. Pennant crossed the Dee over
Pont Gillan, which has two arches across a deep, black bed of
waters, beyond which, however, the valley assumes new beauties,
richly contrasting with the stupendous heights, covered with ancient
oak, towering above. The scenery round this spot is described by
the great tourist as worthy the pencil of a Salvator. Mr. Bingley,
on the other hand, passed Llandrillo at the distance of three miles,
crossing the Dee at Landerfel, another small village. The church
of this place, according to the old Chronicle, had the honour of
containing a large image of Derfel Gadarn, its patron saint; and
the Welsh prophecy ran, that this single wooden likeness would
some day set a whole forest on fire. Accordingly, on the execution
of Doctor Forest, for treason, in 1538, it was taken from its nook,
and put under him to excite the fuel when he was burned in
Smithfield.

From Llandrillo I passed by a footpath over the mountains
immediately between Cader Fronwen and Cader Ferwyn, two

h2

250 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

eminences in the range of the great Berwyn hills.* Turning
thence to the right, on reaching the summit of these Alpine
heights, a short walk of two miles brought me within view of the
grand waterfall called Pistil Rhaiadr, at least two hundred feet
in extent ; and though destitute of the magnificent foliage which
gives so splendid a contrast to some other cataracts — rich in under-
wood and forest trees — young plantations are rising on every side.
It is formed by the little river llhaiadr, which, after the boisterous
raging of the falls, quietly murmurs through a sylvan dell, and,
dividing the counties of Denbigh and Montgomery, soon unites
with the river Tanat. Near the waterfall is a pleasant little inn,
built by Sir W. W. Wynn. A farther walk of four miles, through
the bold valley of Mochnant, presents to the eye the picturesque
village of Llanrhaidr yn Mochnant, encompassed by mountains
of varied form and colour, blending well with the character of
the scene.

The parish in which this little village is situated has been long
noted for its vicars, among whom was the learned Dr. Morgan —
already mentioned — the translator of the Bible into his native
tongue, and successively Bishop of LlandafF and of St. Asaph ; and
the no less erudite and more facetious Dr. South. Not having
space for the purpose here, I must be content to refer my readers
to the biography of this learned divine for some interesting anec-
dotes— not a few of them, also, very amusing — which will amply
repay the perusal.

About twenty miles from Llanrhaidr, I approached Welshpool,
the most spacious and important of the towns of Montgomeryshire.
It has one main street, crossed by small ones at right angles, and
the houses are neat and well built. The language spoken, and
the manners of the people, are almost altogether English.

* These would seem to bo mere variations of the same generic name, bestowed, pro-
bably, by the popular taste for the sake of euphony, of which we may perceive numerous
examples in the rural nomenclature of the Principality.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 251

The water fonnerly upon the waste is now comprehended
within the enclosure of Powis Park. It is a deep, black water,
thought to be unfathomable, of which the Welsh are fond of
repeating an old prophecy, that it will some time overflow and
deluge the town. The church — singularly situated in a hollow of
the hill, with a cemetery as high as itself — is built in the pointed,
but not ancient, style, and dedicated to St. Mary. It possesses a
chalice of pure gold, worth one hundred and seventy pounds. The
county-hall, a modern edifice, is erected in the centre of the town,
and presents an elegant appearance, having a handsome front, with
a colonnade and pilasters of stone. There is every convenience for
the administration of justice, and no less for the accommodation of
the people. The Severn is navigable for barges to a place called
Pool quay, a mile from the town, and upwards of two hundred
miles from its mouth in the Bristol channel.

Powis Castle, the seat of Lord Clive, is situated on an eminence,
about a mile south of Welshpool, and one of the outer entrances
to the park is on the very edge of the town. A considerable por-
tion is built of red stone, from which the natives call it Castell
Coch, or the Red Castle. It is an extensive and venerable build-
ing, without much pretension to architectural taste, and has been
greatly extended and improved by the present noble owner.

The original building was commenced in 1109, by Cadwgan
ap Cynfyn, who was murdered by his nephew, and left the build-
ing unfinished. It was continued by Gwynwynwyn, who was
governor of this part of Powys land. Llewellyn ap Jorwerth
dismantled the castle in 1283. It was again completed, and
remained in the possession of Owen ap Gryffj^dd. On his demise
he left a daughter whose claims were disputed ; but, being shortly
afterwards married, the King ennobled her husband by the title of
Baron Po^vys; and the estates continued for several centuries in
the possession of their descendants. At the time of the Civil Wars
in the seventeenth century, Piercy, Lord Powj's, declared for the
Royal cause and garrisoned his castle, of which he took the com-

252 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

mand in person. He was, however, compelled to surrender to the
Parliamentary forces, under General Myddelton, in 1644. On
this occasion the walls were greatly damaged by the cannon of the
assailants, the place pillaged, and the noble owner himself taken
prisoner. The castle and lordship were confiscated to the use of
the Parliament; but the proprietor afterwards compounded for
and obtained possession of them again.

The magnitude of this elevated pile of building is observed, with
the greatest effect, on the road leading towards Montgomery,
whence its embattled turrets are seen rising above the magnificent
trees by which they are nearly surrounded. I was delighted with
my ramble over different parts of the park, which is formed of
gently rising hills clothed with trees, and pleasant lawns where
the dappled deer added to the charm of the scene. From the
upper part, in clear weather, the distant mountains of Plinlimmon,
Cader Idris, and Snowdon, are seen. The principal entrance
is a gateway between two massy round towers. In front it is
approached by two immense terraces, rising one above the other
by a flight of steps, adorned with statues, vases, &c.

On the grand staircase is some very fine tapestry by Lanscroon,
with the date of 1705; and the work on the ceiling represents the
coronation of Queen Anne. The apartments on the ground-floor are
rather gloomy, from the great thickness of the walls. The views
from the windows of the dining and drawing rooms are very fine,
presenting the extensive and richly wooded park, the vistas opening
at intervals, the valley of the Severn, and a wide extent of country,
including the Breiddin hills, which are surmounted by three peaks,
on one of which is built the obelisk commemorating the victory
of Admiral Lord Rodney over the French fleet, in the West
Indies, in 1782.

Lord Clive's collection of paintings, particularly portraits,
is numerous. Those by Sir Peter Lely are very fine, and in
excellent preservation. I think the most interesting pictures are
the portraits of the Duchess of Powis, King Charles the Second,

WANDERINGS THROUGH NOKTH WALLS. 25.'3

that eccentric genius Lord Herbert, of Cherbury, and Henrietta,
Queen of Charles the First. There is a full-length portrait of
Roger Palmer, Earl of Castlemain, the husband of that intriguing
beauty, the Duchess of Cleveland. He is drawn according to the
costume of the time, in a black wig and scarlet mantle, and is in
the act of dictating to his secretary, when envoy from James the
Second to the Pope. The object he had in view was to obtain a
pardon from his holiness for the sin of heresy into which these
realms had fallen. The Pope himself could not conceal his ridicule
of such a proceeding as the attempt to reconcile the two dissevered
churches, and he was invariably seized with a fit of coughing when
the Earl touched upon his e^nbassy. At length, wearied with
delay, the Earl gave notice to his holiness that he was about to
pack up his credentials and quit Rome ; and with equal coolness
the representative of St. Peter replied, that in that case he would,
with the most cordial affection, recommend him ' to set off early
in the morning, and to rest at noon, lest by over excitement, and
the effect of the heat, he should chance to endanger his health.'
In a small, dark room, I observed a portrait of the present Lady
Clive, commenced by Sir Thomas Lawrence, but finished in a
very different style to that of this eminent man, by an artist
whose name I did not learn.

The aspect of the scenery around, like that of the mansion, has
more recently partaken of the new and more natural manner of
setting-off the advantages of nature combined with art. For the
artist who delights in wild forest scenery, or pastoral quiet, Powis
park will supply a continued treat. The verdant spreading lawns,
the swelling hills, and rich variety of wooded views, together with
the distant hills and woods mingling with the sky, at the moment I
contemplated them, in the soft glow of an autumnal eve, shed a
benign influence over the mind.

It was with singular pleasure that I listened to the commenda-
tions— given with earnestness and good-will, when no interest was
to be derived — of the kind deportment and benevolent disposition

254 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

uniformly displayed by the proprietor of Powis Castle, and of his
sense of justice, his liberality to many in time of need, and the
manner in which he steps forward to promote the happiness and
improvement of his tenantry.

At a short walk from Welshpool is the beautiful vale of Cyfeiliog,
and, at the foot of the Breiddin hills, the ruins of the Cistercian
Monastery, called Ystradd Marchell, founded in 1170. To the
north of Welshpool are seen, rising sternly above the valley, Moel
y Golfa, Craig Breiddin, and the triforked summits of a rock more
than one thousand feet in height. On the loftiest peak stands the
obelisk erected to commemorate the great victory achieved by
Rodney. Here I caught the distant views of the solitary Wrekin,
the vast chain of contiguous hills, the summits of Snowdon on
the north, and Cader Idris to the west.* The vale, through
which the Severn pursues its course, is beheld extending far
below.

The way to Newtown, through the valley, almost parallel with
the river, and studded with pleasant villages, surmounted by
richly wooded hills, on one of which rises a little temple, — presents
many lovely views. On this occasion, instead of turning to the
left when about a mile from Welshpool, and taking the direct road
to Montgomery, I proceeded on that towards Newtown as far as the
village of Berriew. On my left ran the Severn, and to my right,
just above the road, rose a succession of lofty hills, richly clothed
with wood; and, nearer the Montgomeiyshire canal, which fre-
quently intersects the road, is caught at intervals by the eye.
From Berriew again, leaving the road to Newtown, I took the path
to the left, and, at a short distance, crossed the bridge over the
Severn. It was here, on proceeding a little way, that I observed,
on the top of an eminence, on the other side of which lies the

• The botanist may here find pleasure in meeting with the Veronica Hybrida, the
Potentilla rupestres ; and on the steeper parts of Craig Breiddin, Pyrus Aria ; in other
spots Pteris Crispa, Cotyledon lutea, Sedum rujjestrc, Papaver Cambricum, Chlora
Perfoliata, Lichnis Viscaria, &c. &c.

WANDERINGS TH ROUGH NORTH WALES. 255

town, the picturesque effect of the ruins of the noble castle to
which I was a})proachiiig. How strange a contrast to the fast-
decaying monument of feudal days, and the associations it conjured
up, did the whole scene exhibit, in the neat, well-conducted inn,
the modern roads branching in various directions, and the farm
house and yard usurping the old feudal tenure of baronial sway !
No spot in the Principality is more memorable in Cambrian
history, for the singular events, the wild and daring feats of arms,
the fierce contests, and succession of masters, which the Castle
of Montgomery witnessed from the very foundation of the for-
tress to the period of the Civil Wars. The first strong-hold of the
Marches, erected by Baklwyn, from whom the place was termed
Tre Faldwyn, or Baldwyn's Town, a lieutenant of the Conqueror,
to overawe the Welsh, its strength was not unfrequently turned
against its original masters. It was again wrested from them by
Roger Montgomery, Earl of Arundel and Shrewsbury, who, invad-
ing Powys land, took the town and castle, and, restoring their
fortifications, gave to both the proud name which he bore. Yet, in
one short year, with the surrounding country, it fell to the Welsh,
who defied the power of William Rufus, and compelled the Nor-
mans to an ignominious retreat. Spite of a brave resistance, the
Welsh, having levelled the walls, carried the place by storm ; and it
was not till after four years' incessant struggle that they were
again driven to the mountains. The'castle was rebuilt by the Earl
of Shrewsbury, and a century elapsed ere it again fell before the
fiery Britons. Subsequently, as at all previous periods, the fertile
lands of Powys were esteemed too great a prize to be relinquished,
and they became the battle-field not only of rival lords, but of
princes and kings. Here, as in all great actions which threw a lustre
on his country, the last of the Llewellyns met the banded hosts of
England, and reaped that fame in arms which soon allied him to
the royal House of the Norman Conquerors, and gave a transitory
gleam of peace and prosperity to his suffering country. Summoned
as a vassal to appear before the court of King Henry HI., the

'256 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

Prince replied by laying siege to the town, which he raised only
at the approach of the King at the head of an immense army,
before which he was compelled to retire after a severe conflict, but
harrassed on its return. It was at this time that Henry restored
the castle upon a site deemed so impregnable, and with such lines
of defence, as would prove an effectual barrier to the future progress
of the warlike Prince. Having placed in it a powerful garrison,
and given the command to his grand justiciary, Hubert do Burgh,
with honours and emoluments from the lordship of the Marches,
the King withdrew in the idea that he had chastised the insolence
of the lawless Welsh, and fixed a sharp curb on their predatory
career. Hardly had the Royal leader reached the borders, watched
by his wary foe, before numbers of the Welsh, pouring from their
hills in the rear, boldly faced the new-built fortress frowning from
its rock-based height, and, burning to achieve some bold action,
while their Prince observed the retiring foe, they surrounded and
summoned it to surrender. Maddened at such an insult from
' a wild horde of Welshmen,' the blood of De Burgh boiled to
revenge it ; and sallying forth with the whole of his veteran garri-
son, by feigning at first to be worsted he drew the Welsh farther
into his toils, and turning on his assailants while another party took
them in flank, a desperate and unsparing conflict ensued. But it
could not be long doubtful ; and so surely had the grand justiciary
taken his measures, and relied on their success, that even the ladies
of the castle, surrounding the young and beautiful Countess De
Burgh, had been, as at a tournament, witnesses of the bold sally
with as much pleasure as if at a contested election or a lord-mayor's
day in our own times ; and they were as eager to adorn the battle-
ments with the heads of the wild men as with the ribands of
some favourite candidate at present. The knowledge of being
marked by the eyes of beauty sharpened the edge of Norman
chivalry, and many a heart beat high, and fair bosoms heaved with
love and pride, as the colours conferred on some favourite youth
flew foremost in the frightful slaughter of the undisciplined moun-

^r

i

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 257

taineers. Individual valour could no longer meet the shock of
the Norman; the rout was terrible, and great numbers of the
Welsh were barbarously beheaded. The lovely countess averted
her eyes from the sight; nature and humanity triumphed, though
she sought to disguise her tears and terror from her less scru-
pulous companions.

It is recorded, that to retaliate so foul an injury, Llewellyn ap
Jorwerth collected together numerous forces from various parts of
Wales, and encamped on the side of the hill on which the castle
is built. De Burgh, being intimidated, privately withdrew; and
Llewellyn, gaining possession of the place, put the garrison to the
sword, and burnt the fortress. The life of the countess was
preserved by the skill and intrepidity of a few trusty knights and
retainers, who conducted her safely out of the castle, by a postern
gate, the evening before Llewellyn obtained an entrance.

Burning to avenge the destruction of their countrjmen, the
Welsh rushed into the castle, putting every living thing to the
sword. The sight of hundreds of trunkless heads, strewn on all
sides, roused them to the highest pitch of fury, and all the magni-
ficence and beauty of the newly-erected castle became a prey to
the flames. Not less indignant than his followers, Llewellvn
afterwards levelled its blackened walls with the earth. A series of
undecisive contests ensued, till, at length, in the year 1268, a
conference was held at the very spot where these events took place,
and a peace concluded between Henry and the Welsh, through
the interposition of the Pope's legate, and signed in the once
more restored and stately castle of Montgomery. This treaty
was ratified by the respective princes in person, and received
Pope Clement's sanction. The lands on both sides were restored;
and due fealty and homage, with the more solid honour of twenty-
five thousand marks, paid to the English king.

In 1345, the castle and manor of Montgomery, then comprised
in the hundred of Cherbury, were in possession of Roger Mortimer ;
and after his attainder, though restored to the family, they even-

1 2

'2j8 wanderings through north wales.

tually passed into the Royal House of York, by the marriage of
Ann, heiress of the last earl, whence they came into possession
of the Crown. The castle appears subsequently to have been held
in stewardship by the ancestors of Lord Herbert of Cherbury ; and
it became the principal residence of that family. During the Civil
Wars, it was garrisoned for Charles the First, who appointed Lord
Herbert its governor; but, on the approach of the Parliamentary
general, he took the opposite side.

The ruins now seen are part of the bold and lordly pile as it

then stood, on the extremity of an impending eminence to the

north of the town. The fragment of a tower, and some scattered

walls, alone attest its former splendour and magnificence. The

walls appear to have been of immense thickness, which must have

caused the interior to wear a gloomy appearance. They, however,

give us some idea of the formidable strength, combined with isolated

grandeur, and of the false magnificence of the too much extolled

age of chivalry. The castle was defended by four deep fosses, cut

out of the solid rock, over which draw-bridges appear to have been

thrown by way of security. The approach was by four shorter

moats, with two entrances to the main work. The view from the

summit embraces a large extent of country, the greater part of

which, with its serfs and vassals, was at one period under the

despotic sway of its lords. At the foot of the hill is traced a small

fortification, with a sort of artificial mount raised on one side.

This has been conjectured to be the site of its ancient foundation,

by Baldwyn, bearing evident marks of the Norman fashion. Le-

land says, that in the fifteenth century the town was encircled by

an immense wall, flanked with towers, and four massy gates, to

protect the castle.

The church, an elegant building in the form of a cross, contains
an ancient monument to the memory of Richard Herbert, father
of the celebrated baron of the same name, and to Magdaline, his
wife. Two recumbent figures repose under a magnificent canopy,
and in front are seen the effigies of their numerous family. To-

WANDERINGS TIIUOUGH NORTH WALES. 259

wards the improvement of this church, Lord Clive, not long since,
contributed the munificent sum of two thousand pounds.

The town has an air of peculiar neatness and gentility, not
very usual in the Principality. It is chiefly inhabited by persons
of middle rank, or small fortune, some of whom have selected it
by way of economy, and some for ' learned leisure ;' they have
every thing which reason and nature can supply, and a succession
of lovely and luxuriant scenes around them to charm the sight,
with the rich prospect of Salopian woods and mountains gradually
fading into the clouds. I no longer wondered at the enthusiastic
eulogies bestowed upon it by different tourists, or that it should
have been the favourite retreat of the sometime studious, sometime
mad, yet witty in his eccentricities, — 'all things by turns, and
nothing long,' — of that true essence of nobility, — the Lord of
Cherbury. A native of Montgomery, born in 1583, he was one
of those geniuses who, like Swift, show no precocious maturity.
Far from this, he says he was puny, and so backward in his speech
that it was feared he would be dumb ; but, he adds, that he knew
what was said by others, and only refused to speak lest he should
talk nonsense. As he got older, however, it seems that he pushed
his way in the world very well ; not merely mastering languages,
but physic, music, and every other science, — if we are to believe
him, — for which he took a fancy. When made a Knight of the
Bath, he vowed that he would act up to his oath of knighthood,
and permit no injustice to be done; that in case any lady or gentle-
man had the slightest complaint on the score of injured honour,
he would see it well redressed. And he sometimes kept his word,
as the thousand strange incidents and situations through which he
passed, in his varied life of a soldier, a traveller, statesman, ambas-
sador, adventurer, and recluse, must have offered him numerous
occasions of doing to his heart's content. How singular that the
very man who attempted to explode all belief in revelation as
gross enthusiasm, should himself be one of the most extraordinary
enthusiasts of his own or any time, and should publish a work on

260 WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES.

Truth, the Latin title of which he caused to be engraven upon
his tomb ! Lord Herbert ' is said to have been the first author
who reduced deism into a regular system, in which he asserted,
and endeavoured to prove, the sufficiency, universality, and abso-
lute perfection of natural religion, without the aid of supernatural
or extraordinary communication of the Divine will.' Yet this same
man, when he had finished his work, ' De Veritate^ is stated to
have put up a solemn prayer for a sign from heaven to determine
him upon its publication, and that he interpreted a sudden noise
as an imprimatur. ' There is no stronger characteristic of human
nature, than its being open to the strongest contradictions : one
of Lord Herbert's chief arguments against revealed religion is, the
improbability that heaven should reveal its will to only a portion
of the earth, which he terms particular religion. How could a
man, who doubted of partial, believe individual revelation ? What
vanity to think his book of such importance to the cause of truth,
that it could extort a declaration of the Divine will, which the
interests of half mankind could not!'*

Half a mile from Montgomery is Lymore Lodge, one of the
seats of the Powis family. It is a very old building, chiefly of
wood, and was once the residence of the before mentioned Lord
Herbert. It is surrounded by an extensive park, containing some
large pools, well stocked with fish, and, also, with wild fowl during
the season. From this place there is a picturesque and striking
view of the town of Montgomery, calmly reposing on the side of a
hill whose summit towers above and is partly covered with trees.
The church and ruins of the castle form prominent objects in
the scene.

Winding my way leisurely through the park, I was startled by
the sound of the horn, and the loud, cheering cry of a pack of fox
hounds, taking their first autumnal field day, with all ' the pomp
and circumstance ' peculiar to the first breaking ground on these

* Lord OrfonPs Uoyal and Nohlr /liithors. Vol. III. Page 1«.

WANDERINGS THROUGH NORTH WALES. 261

stirring occasions. The whole pack, with riders and pedestrians
of all kinds, passing quickly before me, had such an enlivening
and animating effect upon my mind, that I was induced to extend
my walk to the neighbouring -plantations. The fox, however,
although seen in one of them the same morning, was no where to
be found, to the chagrin and disappointment of all present. Sly
renard, probably, was in one plantation while the dogs were in
another, and, being aware of the danger, quietly stole away to
the Shropshire hills. The hounds, I understood, were from New-
town, but occasionally hunted this district. They did not appear
well managed, and were, perhaps, made up from two or three
worn-out packs.

The Wanderer is now about to disappear for awhile from before
the eyes of his readers. Such of them as have followed with in-
terest and good-will his track along the lofty mountainous ridges,
the deep and solemn ravines, and the rich valleys of the northern
part of the Principality, may see him again appear, pursuing his
pilgrimage with untiring step through the southern division of that
ancient kingdom; — now mingling with the fashionable coteries of
that most attractive of all watering places — Aberystwith; and
now wending his solitary way along the banks of that most enchant-
ing of all rivers — The Wye.

END OF NORTH WALES.

i

INDEX.

PAGE

PAGE

ABER

. 188

Ffestiniog .

239

Abbey of Kymmer .

226

Flint .

. 48

. a-?

GanlhvyJ .

2.34

Ascent up Snowdon .

120

Glyder Hills .

. 1.38

Bangor

167

Great Orme's Head .

194

Bangor Suspension Bridge

. 169

Guide at Capel Curig

118, 133

Barmouth .

231

Gwydir

199

Bala .

. 243

Hawarden

. 37

Beaumaris .

ia3

Harlech

210

Beddgelert

149, 136

Holyhead

. 173

Bcttws y Coed

111

Berrievv

. 234

Johnson (Dr.) in Wales

81

Bolingbroke and Richard 11. at Flint 50

Kymmer Abbey.

. 226

Capel Curig

. 113

Lake Ogwen

159

Caunant Mawr Waterfall

127

Lighthouse at Holyhead .

. 177

Capcl Curig to Beddgelert

. 143

Llanrhaidr

2.30

Caernarvon

170

Llanilltyd

. 227

Cader Idris

. 219

Llandegai .

164

Cernioge Mawr

101

Llanberis

. 127

Charm of Welsh Scenery

. 93

Llangollen

84

Chester .

21

Llanrwst

. 196

Chirk Castle .

. 89

Llandrillo .

249

Conway

191

Llewellyn, Wars of

15

Corwen

. 100

Llyn Gwynant

147

Cricaeth .

210

Idwal

. 139

Death of Llewellyn

. 18

Tal y Llvn

Tesrid

219
. 246

Dinas Bran Castle

94

■* *^ o

Dinas Mowildy .

. 222

Lymore Lodge

260

Dolbadern Tower .

128

Machynlleth

. 220

Dolwyddelan Castle

. 102

Maentwrog

241

Dolgelley .

. 213, 218

Mawddach River

. 229

Dolymelynllyn .

. 233

Menai Straits

168

Eleanora de Mountford
Eliseg's Column

9
. 83

Menai Bridge .
^Montgomery

. 169
235

Euloe

47

Nant Frangon .

. 162

Nannau Park

215

Falls of the Conway
Ogwen .

. 109
162

Northop

. 55

Cynfael

. 242

Ogwen Lake

159

INDEX.

Dwen Glendower

Peninaen l\Ia\vr
Penrliyn Castle .
Peninorfa .
Pistil Rbaiadr .

Cayne

Pont y Cyssyllte

Pair

Aberg'.asslyn

Ddu .

Powis Castle

Rhiuldlan .
Richard II. at Flint
Rhaiadr y Wonol

Cwm Dyli

Du

Cwin

Pistil

Royal Tribes

Saint Asaph
finowdonia
Snowdon, Ascent of

I'AOE

93

189
166
206
250
237
83
201
203
230
251

65
49
112
121
236
244,
250
6

60
114
123

TACK

South Stack Lighthouse . .179

Tan y Rwlch . . 213, 224

Tal y Llyn . . . 219

Trawsfynydd . . 237

Tractli Bycban . . .242

Travelling Reflections . 138

Trifaen Mountain . .159

Tremadoc . . . 205

Vale of Gvvynant . . 153

Conway . .196

Llanrwst . .198

Llugwy . . 199

Cyfeilog . . 254

Valle Crucis Abbey . . 83

Wales, Introductory Chapter on . 1

Wars of Llewellyn . . 15

Welshpool . . .250

Wreck of the Rothsay Castle . 184

Wynnstay . . .88

Y Vanner . , . 226

Yspytty Evan . , . 102

^,P

3o

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